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FOLDOUT 


A    STROLL   BY   A    FAMILIAR   RIVER 


Comprising  the  colloquy  of  siuinterers  by  its  lower  course, 
aur]  houseliold  words  pertainiug  to  its  early  history 


^, 


By  Wm.  E.  BAKRY 


KENNERUNK,  MAINE,     I909 


Enterprise  Press. 
Copyrighted,   191 1 


Cci.a:^I4SST- 


INTRODUCTION 


^ 

^ 


Mild  Critic 


Interested 
Friend 


Critic 


O  interested  friend  why  did  you  write  that  historical 
tale  of  the  river?  How  ill  advised  it  was  of  you  to 
so  rush  into  piint. 

Child,  speak  not  slightingly  of  our  humble  annals!    Ah 
little  think  you  happy  one  that    the   old    time    is    passing 
away,  and  with  it  nature's  charm  in  the   stream   in   this   its 
eleventh  hour.     Would  you  have  the  scenes  and  events 
of    its    waters,  and     the     memory    of    the    yeomen     and 
their    kindly    mates,  who    have    striven    with   honest    toil 
upon    its    banks    to    be    ignored,  and     even     our     Hotilla, 
slight    tho'    it    were,  to   pass  into    oblivion    unnoticed? 
I    am   at    loss   to     understand    where    you     fathered    so 
much   time    out    mind     information    and     many    sayings, 
not  to  mention  tne  much  discolored  manuscripts.     Pray 
acquaint    me,    for    how  many  cycles   have  you   been   en- 
gaged   in    this    will-o'-the-wisp    chase,  and    where    did 
you   scan  the    much   worn  papers,  and  who  pleased   you 
with    credulous    tales    of   old?      And    what  measures    of 
tune    did    you    devote    to    the   gathering    and    arranging 
of  these  bits  of  information,  and  the  depicting  of  these 
scenes  and    objects    in    your    work  ? 


Friend 


Ah,  that  work  which  was  undertaken  as  a  holiday  pastime 
proved    "the    rather"    to     be     a     serious    task,    claiming 
nearly    every    leisure    hour   for    quite  four  seasons!   And 
you    are    well    aware   that  when  one  becomes  possessed 
of    a    leading    thought    that    rest    is    misnomer    until    the 
,  task   be   accomplished.       Indeed,    the    work    does    com- 
prise all  that  I  ever  knew  of    the  stream,   and    that  the 
kindness  of    many    friends,   who    so  willingly   aided  me  in 
the   effort    by    the    cheerful    giving    of    information,  con- 
tributed  to    it. 

Truly  their  aid  is  a  greater  pleasure  to  me  in  memory 
than  is  the  final  accomplishment  of  the  task,  for,  in- 
deed, without  their  favor  it  could  not  have  been  car- 
ried   to    fulfilment. 


Critic 


Friend 


But    you    have    not    mentioned   the  time  discolored  man- 
uscripts, the  early  deed,  letter  contract  and  legal  papers. 

Ah,  you  remind  me !  Touching  those  ancient  papers! 
they  are  yet  legible,  and  are  the  belongings  of  de- 
scendants of  those  persons  to  whom  they  refer.  Would 
you    wish   to    view    them  ? 


Critic 


No — thank    you — not    with    my    interest! 

But    pray    friend   where    did    you    gather   so  much  in- 


Friend 


Critic 


telligence  relating  to  the  loss  of  the  Horace  as  you 
style  the  craft?  I  would  infer  from  the  narration  that 
you  were  really  one  of  the  onlookers  on  that  occa- 
sion. You  appear  to  desire  to  make  the  past  seem 
like  the  present  ! 

Truly  you  will  better  comprehend  when  I  assure  you 
that  more  than  a  score  of  years  since  when  the  in- 
cidents were  first  gathered  and  transcribed  concerning 
the  Horace — the  vessel's  manager  or  husband,  also 
various  townsfolk  who  viewed  the  craft's  unfortunate 
plight  and  one  other  person,  who  was  a  member  of  the 
crew  on  that  night  of  alarm;  were  yet  with  us,  and 
questioned  concerning  the  episode,  and  the  files  of  the 
local  "Gazette"  of  the  time  were  also    consulted  profitably. 

It  suffices  me ! 

Surely  friend  you  have  labored  with  an  assiduity 
that  commands  my  sympathy,  but  let  us  hope  for  a 
further  wish  that  topics  of  today  and  not  retrospect, 
will  occupy    your    thoughts    and    attention    hereafter. 

\v,  E.  B. 


List  of  Illustrations 


BY    W.    E.    B. 


WAINSCOTING,    UNITARIAN    PARSONAGE 


Drawing  from   measurements  of  the    orig- 
inal work. 


STAGE   TAVERN 


''       enlarged    Erom    a   contemporary 
photograph. 


MANSION    OF    RICHARD    GILPATRIC 


from  a  photo,  and  contemporary 
sketch  of  building. 


ORNATE    WOODWORK,  R.    GILPATRIC  MANSION 


from  a  sketch  of  the  original 
apartment,  but  with  fireplace 
shown  open. 


RICHARD  GILPATRIC 


from  an  old  time  portrait 


WASHINGTON  HALL 


restored    with    former    owner's 
assistance  in  1887. 


SITE  OF  T.  LORD  S  SHIPYARD 


HOMESTEAD  OF  J.   BRAGDON 


enlarged  from  a  photo. 

restored    from    a   contemporary 
sketch,  with  former  dweller's  aid. 


EARLY  STONE,  MONTJOY    HILL 


enlarged  from   a  sketch  of  the 
stone. 


SITE  OF  J.  BUTLAND  S  SHIPYARD 

BENJ.  BROWN,  JUSTICE  OF  THE  PEACE 
AND  MERCHANT 


enlarged  from  a  photo. 

enlarged  from  an   early    painted 
miniature. 


THE  "BLACK  CLOUD 


enlarged  from  a  sketch  of   the 
boat. 


THE "gem" 


enlarged  from  a  sketch    of    the 
craft  taken  in  1867. 


MOUSAM  NAVIGATION  Co's.  CERTIFICATE 


Photo,  from  an  original  certificate. 


A  STROLL  BY  A  FAMILIAR  RIVER 


DAY  THE  FIRST 


Ha,  ha,  this  was  the  day  on  which  we  were  to  take  our  ramble  !  Truly 
it  was,  but  what  is  that  musical  gurgle  that  I  hear,  the  liquid  melody  of 
running  waters  ? 

Ah.  it  is  the  "Mousum,"  babbling  its  perpetual  song  !  and  this  day's 
exercise  we  will  christen  "A  Stroll  by  a  Familiar  River,"  tor  we  are  at 
Mousum  river  bridge  in  Kennebunk  village. 

Surely  so,  but  has  the  river  ever  borne  that  name,  and  have  the 
premises  long  been  closely  covered  with  housings  as  at  present? 

Well — you  must  understand  that  for  many  years  during  the  early 
settlements  hereabouts,  when  the  town  of  Cape  Porpoise  claimed  this  stream 
as  its  Western  boundary,  it  was  styled  the  Cape  Porpoise  river,  but  regard- 
ing the  housings,  they  have  existed  here  almost  forever.  Permit  me  to  draw 
from  my  sleeve  this  antique  deed,  and  we  will  seek  some  quiet  spot  where 
to  read  it.       Here,  this  sloping  bank  hints  of  nature  still— Let  us  begin  ! 

"To  all  people  before  whom  this  deed  of  sale  shall  come.  Greeting. 
Know  ye  that  I  James  Oare  of  Wells  in  ye  County  of  York  in  this  their 
Mag'ty.  Province— Territory  &  Dominion  of  ye  Province  of  Massachusetts 
Bay  in  New  England,  logger,   for  and  in  consideration   of  ye  sum  one  hun- 


dred  forty  pounds  sterling  to  me  well   and  truly    paid    in    hand    by  Jonathan 
Corwin,  Esq.,  of  ye  town  of  Salem    in    ye    County    of    Essex    and   Province 
aforesaid,   mercht.,  ye  rect.  whereof  I  do  by  these  presents  acknowledge,  and 
every  part  and  parcel  thereof  and  therewith  to  be  fully  satisfied — content  and 
paid,  &  of  evt-ry  part  and  parcel  thereof  do  fully,  freely  and  absolutely  acquit, 
exonerate    and    discharge  ye   sd  Corwin,  his    heirs,  exrs.  adms.    and    assigns 
forever,  by  these  presents  have  grynitd,  bargained  and  sold,  and  do  by  these 
presents  further  give,  grant,  bargain,  sell,  aliene,  enfeoffe  &    confirm  unto  ye 
aforesaid  Jonathan  Corwin  Esqr.,  a  certain  tract  of  upland  and  meadow  land, 
containing  by  estimation  two    hundred   acres,    be    it   so  much,  little,  more  or 
less,  and  is  situate  in  ye  township  of  Wells    aforesaid  at  a    place  called  Mou- 
sum — It  being  Cape   Porpoise    river  falls,  and  it    butted  and    bounded  as    fol- 
loweth  viz.  the  land  of  ye  said  Corwin  north  easterly,  ye  land  lying    down  ye 
river  by  ye  HIGHWAY  one  hundred  and  fifty  poles    and  then    ye  line    runs 
E.  N.  E.  by  several  marked  trees  so  far  as  seiting  off  upon  a  square  it  makes 
ye  aforesaid  sum  of  two  hundred    acres,  ana  at  ye    north  easterly  end    it  cuts 
upon  ye  common  lands  of  ye  said  town  of  Wells,  all  which  tract  of  land  afore- 
said, was  granted  to  me  ye  said  Jami^s  Oare  &  Henry  Brown    and  laid  out  by 
their  committee  as  by  ye  record  of  ye    said  town    will  plainly    appear.     Also 
this  tract  of  land  contains  one  DWELLING  HOUSE  and  BARN,  FIELDS 
&  FENCES — with  ye  right  of  trees,  wood,  brush  aid  herbage,    stones  water 
and  water  courses  to  him  ye  said  Jonathan  Corwin,  his  heirs,  adms.  &  assigns 
forever* 

2 


To  have  and  to  hold  ye  above  granted  premises  with  every  part  and 
parcel  thereof  with  all  ye  rights  of  houses,  fences,  cultures,  improvements, 
trees  and  timber  like  trees,  wood  and  underwood,  standing,  lying  or  growing 
upon  ye  same  or  that  ever  shall  grow  upon  it,  ye  grass  and  herbage — Also  ye 
stones,  water  and  water  courses,  etc. 

I  ye  said  James  Oare  have  hereunto  set  my  hand  and  affixed  my  seal 
this  eighth  day  of  Sept.  Annoque  Domini  sixteen  hundred  ninety-two — annoq 
Regni,  Regis  and  Regina,  Guiellielum  &  Maria,  Anglia  &ct  Quarto — Signed 
sealed  and  delivered  in  the  presence  of  Samuel  Wheelwright,  Joseph  Storer, 
James  Converse." 

What,  a  highway,  a  house  and  barn,  fields  and  fences  here  at  Cape 
Porpoise  river  falls  in  1692?  'tis  well  that  you  said  that  housings  had  existed 
on  this  land  almost  forever — Regarding  the  sounding  Latin  phrase  Regni, 
Regis,  etc.  it  would  have  pleased  me  well  had  he  written,  "In  the  fourth  year 
of  the  reign  of  the  King  and  the  Queen,  William  &  Mary  of    England,  etc." 

James  Converse,  James  Converse;  was  not  he  the  brusque  Captain  who 
so  ably  defended  Lieut.  Joseph  Storer's  garrison  at  Wells  in  the  noted 
French  and  Indian  fray  of  the  previous  June  of  the  same  year?  Yes  Sir,  un- 
doubtedly the  same  person.  What  of  those  "Common  lands?'' — As  for  ye 
Wells  Commons  or  town  lands,  which  extended  to  ye  Mousum  river,  I  will 
say  that  some  60  years  since,  two  of  ye  inhabitants  ot  Kennebunk  made  it 
their  earnest  occupation  to  search  for,  in  ye  turnpike  region,  lots  of  common 
lands,  that  ye  town  of  Wells  had  never  deeded  to  any  person,  and  they  found 
several  such,  and  preempted  them  for  their  own  benefit. 

3 


But  I  heard  you  speak  of  other  mementos,  the  mill  and  dam  of  1674, 
above,  at  the  pasture  yonder — Ah  yes  !  but  scant  traces  remain  of  those  at 
this  day — ye  friends  who  traversed  that  track  when  boys,  70  years  since,  did 
see  at  the  low  stage  of  water,  or  when  skating  in  ye  winter,  bed  logs  and  the 
row  ot  r(jcks  of  ye  ancient  dam,  extending  across  the  stream  to  the  Dr. 
Emerson  wharf  that  was  then  on  the  Western  Shore.  While  one  of  ye  old 
time  townspeople  who  was  born  soon  after  ye  close  of  the  French  and  Indian 
war,  was  wont  to  say  that  the  long  river  inlet  where  ye  boys  now  skate  in 
wmter,  was  mide  by  the  Scotch  mill  men  as  a  raceway  for  their  mill,  and  if 
you  go  to  the  land  above  on  the  East  Side  you  will  see  the  depression,  now 
almost  effaced,  where  ye  mill  men's  cabin  stood  the  first  white  man's  habita- 
tion in  ye  town  of  Kennebunk — and  Oh!  I  mus°d  upon  those  early  days, 
when  my  friend  was  preparing  the  cellar  of  his  new  house  near  by  some  ten 
years  since,  and  discovered  two  pits  or  fire-places  in  ye  ground,  the  one  some 
2  f.  6  in.  below  ye  surface,  the  other  scarce  beyond  one  foot.  They  were 
separated  forty  ft.  and  each  was  2f.  6  in.  diameter,  and  paved  with  stones. 
Upon  each  was  a  layer  of  charcoal  6  in.  depth  and  yet  quite  fresh,  reminders 
of  ye  Indians'  or  white  folks'  tires,    I  scarce  know  which. 

Oh,  yes.  Friend,  those  happenings  were  so  long  ago,  but  may  we 
awake  to  an  interest  in  more  modern  objects  and  happenings  as  we  stand 
here  by  the  bridge — Inform  me.  Friend,  What  is  that  imposing  white  dwell- 
ing upon  the  brow  of  the  hili  yonder?     Oh,  the   Unitarian   Parsonage  you 

4 


mean?  Well,  from  the  appearance  of  its  parts  I  reckon  that  house  to  have 
been  built  about  ye  year  1787,  and  well  builded  indeed  it  was,  with  its  great 
chimney  resting  upon  a  cellar-high  foundation  nearly  i  2  ft,  square  of  granite 
blocks,  and  with  various  of  its  wall  boardings  feather  edged  the  better  to 
refuse  the  weather,  and  ye  chimney  side  of  its  foreroom  elaborately  set  out 
from  floor  to  ceiling  with  raised  wood  panels,  moulded  door  caps,  fireplace 
panel  and  classic  cornice,  after  ye  best  fashion  of  Batty  Lan^ley,  and  consider 
ye  well  used  brick  fireplace,  with  its  iron  crane.  Then  ye  chamber  above  the 
foreroom  is  almost  as  well  wrought  as  it.  You  must  know  that  soon  after 
the  year  1800  one  Deacon  John  Low  lived  in  this  house  with  his  wife  Rachel 
she  having  been  the  daughter  of  Col.  Ebenezer  Francis  who  so  gallantly 
fought,  and  fell  at  ye  battle  of  Hubbardston,  when  the  American  Gen. 
Schuyler's  rear-guard  opposed  the  advance  of  ye  British  Gen.  Burgoyne.  A 
gallant  officer  was  Col.  Francis  to  offer  his  life  upon  his  country's  altar  ! 

Ah!  Somewhat  for  little  folks  to  see  and  listen  to  in  Kennebunk,  near 
60  years  ago,  when  they  heard  the  resonant  humming,  and  shyly  peeping  in 
at  ye  kitchen  door  of  this  same  old  house,  beheld  Becky  and  Sally,  the  two 
domestics  of  ye  Widow  Rachel,  spinning  the  woolen  yarn  on  ye  great 
spinning  wheel. 

Truly,  Friend,  tho^e  were  different  times  from  these,  but  what  is  that 
imposing  three  storied  structure  just  across  the  way,  and  so  dignified,  the  old 
tavern.  I  suppose?     Yes,  and  it  causes  me  to  smile  when  I  think  of  the  stal- 

5 


wart  Dominicus  Lord  who  previously  lived  there  in  a  small  house,  from 
which  the  present  structure  was  enlarged,  fifing  all  ye  way  from  the  top  of 
the  hill  down  and  over  into  the  village,  at  the  news  of  ye  battle  of  Lexington, 
to  call  the  military  company  together  in  the  old  Revolutionary  times.     Lively 

days  those  for  the  town  !    And  did  you  ever  hear  of  one  Capt.  John  H 

who  before  the  middle  of  the  last  century  bargained  for  ye  old  tavern  of  the 
former  owner,  Bro.  Nathl.  Jefferds  ;  and  of  his  giving  him  in  exchange  for  it, 
a  brig  with  her  cargo  all  stowed,  her  sails  bent,  all  ready  for  sea  ?  Now  you 
must  understand  that  in  those  days  ye  people  did  not  have  that  faith  in  the 
government  such  as  they  now  have,  and  ye  Captain  shared  the  feeling  some- 
whit  I  suppose,  for  it  is  related  that  he  was  wont  to  keep  $500  in  specie  by 
him  at  all  times  in  the  event  that  ye  country  should  go  to  wrack — a  plank  as 
it  were  by  which  to  save  one's  self  on.  And  you  must  also  know  that  the 
Captain  owned  the  territory  back  of  ye  tavern  where  Hovey  Street  now  is 
and  much  more  land  besides  over  that  way. 

Ha!  ha!  maybe  you  young  folk  have  never  heard  of  the  threatened 
Madawaska  war  at  the  Eistward.  near  those  times,  when  ye  boundary  conten- 
tion arose,  and  our  government  urged  recruits  into  the  affected  territory  in 
numbers!  and  "Wonders"  who  should  gallop  up  with  driver,  horses  and 
equipage,  with  all  speed  into  ye  tavern  yard  on  the  hill,  but  the  great 
General  Scott.  In  ye  tavern  was  a  commodious  sofa,  nearly  9ft.  in  length 
between  ye  arms,  and  which  friend  C now  has,  and  erstwhile  the  host- 


M 


#^ 


P 


lers  were  unshackling  ye  panting  horses,  and  leading  out  a  new  rela}-  of  animals, 
the  General  strode  into  ye  tavern,  and  refreshing  himself  with  a  glass  of  wine 
and  an  egg,  lay  down  to  rest  on  the  great  sofa,  and  long  as  it  was  he  occupied 
nearly  the  entire  space.  Ah,  an  imposing  figure  the  General  made  with  his 
long  military  cloak,  and  chapeau  with  plume !  Presently  he  arose,  strode 
out,  embarked,  and  in  a  twinkling  was  away  tor  the  Border. 

Many  a  tale  of  public  occasion   would  ye  walls  of  the  old  house  relate, 
could  they  speak  !      May  long  life  and  prosperity  attend  it  ! 

Come,  we  must  go  !  No,  no,  delay  a  moment  until  I  di-scribe  to  you 
the  third  of  the  trio  of  great  houses  to  which  the  traveller  bade  adieu  as  he 
departed  fom  the  village  on  the  West  side!  The  dwelling  of  Richard  Gil- 
patric  I  mean.  It  stood  upon  the  E.  slope  just  below  ye  tavern,  though  later 
removed.  It  was  of  ample  dimensions,  with  wide  spreading  gambrel  roof, 
plentifully  pierced  with  windows,  and  with  chambers  completed  to  ^-e  upper 
pitch  of  roof,  wood  dados,  moulded  cornices,  fluted  pilasters,  ramped  stair 
work  and  other  finish  of  plain,  but  honest  style.  Hard  by  at  the  rear  sat 
barn  and  sheds  while  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  near  by,  rested  the  great  barn, 
nearly  seventy  ft.  in  length.  You  must  know  that  this  self-made  merchant 
called  all  ye  land  on  the  West  bank  of  the  river  from  the  bridge  to  far  below 
the  head  of  tide,  also  the  open  territory  at  the  rear  of  the  house,  some  240 
acres  altogether,  his  own.  Ah,  Sir,  when  1  muse  on  this  old  estate  I  must 
strike  my  cane  upon    ye  bridge,  and  chant  with    ye    poet,    of   the    times — 

7 


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*"When  men  lived  in  a  grander  way  with  ampler  hospitality."  Now,  let  us 
leave  this  place  !  But  wait,  would  you  not  like  to  hear  oi  Ye  "Mousum 
Manufacturing  Water  Privilege"  of  1825  ?  Why  certainly,  if  it  will  not  take 
long — Proceed ! 

I  will  tell  thee,  that  in  ye  year  1825  one  Mr.  Jesse  Varney  of  Dover, 
considering  that  the  Mousum  river  must  be  wanted  for  more  manufacturing 
use  purchased  of  local  owners  ye  privileges  here,  which  included  a  territory 
of  near  90  acres  on  ye  East. side  of  the  stream,  almost  wholly  below  the 
bridge,  and  a  plot  of  60  acres  on  the  West  side,  opposite  it;  and  ye  ancient 
Cat  Mousum  land  and  mill  above  ;  and  besides,  much  land  on  ye  East  & 
West  sides  of  ye  stream  at  Fluellen's  or  Old  Falls,  and  a  part  of  ye  "Great 
Mill  Lot"  on  the  road  to  Moulton's  mills.  Now  of  ye  buildings  situate  on 
the  river  here  then  !  On  the  East  side,  scarce  4  ft.  above  ye  brido-e,  with 
gables  up  and  down  ye  stream,  was  the  broad,  low  pitch  roofed  Storer  mill 
of  olden  time,  and  at  ye  back  side  there  was  a  gap  in  ye  wall-boardino- 
through  which  ye  saw-carriage  came  almost  to  the  bridge  when  the  mill  was 
working,  and  it  also  ran  outside  the  mill  at  ye  upper  end,  where  was  the 
draw  slip  descending  into  ye  water.  While  a  little  above,  where  now  is  a 
green  field,  was  a  mill  yard.  And  do  you  not  remember  when  some  lucky 
person  kicked  up  an  English  shilling  there?  And  of  the  great  freshet  when 
some  of  ye  water  left  the  mill  pond,  and  ran  East  of  ye  mill  across    ye    high- 

*I-,on^fcllow 


-^ 


way,  and  the  carpenter  and  his  crew  were  called  out  at  night  to    raise   dams 
on  ye  present  Water  Street  to  save  ye  lower  mill  ? 

•  On  the  East  side  by  the  highway  the  land  was  plentifully  stored  with 
logs  leaving  scarce  room  for  the  mail  coach  to  pass — Ah,  well  I  recall  the 
day  when  ye  selectmen  busked  about  to  clear  the  main  street  in  ye  village 
and  on  Zion's  Hill  also,  so  choked  were  they  with  teams  of  oxen  with  timber ! 
On  the  lower  side  of  ye  bridge,  and  in  a  hollow  as  it  were,  sat  the  smallish 
grist  mill  of  antient  date  as  well,  for  when  Esquire  Lord  was  improving  it, 
some  50  years  ago,  what  should  his  son  draw  out  from  behind  ye  wall  casing 
where  it  had  long  rested,  but  this  time-stained  letter.  Listen  now  while  I 
read  it.  It  is  sealed  with  a  red  wafer,  and  beginning  with  a  broad  dash  is 
superset ibed  to  John  Storer  Esqr.  at  Wells,  and  sent  in  care  of  Jos.  Sayer 
Esqr. 

•'Boston  Decbr  4th  1746 — Bro.  Storer.  1  should  have  sent  yr 
lanthorn  by  Perkins  but  he  was  gone,  also  should  have  sent  some  mer- 
chandize to  yr  sons  but  could  not  gett  them  ready — but  by  ye  next  I  shall 
send  if  you  and  they  think  titt.  wee  are  al  well  &  hope  you  &  yrs  are — my 
Duty  to  mother  &  Loves  to  you  &  yr  Family — rest  yr  Loving  Bro. 

Eb:  Storer" 
In  the  semitransparent  paper  is  the  stamp  of  Great  Britain — G.   R.    (George 
Rex)  or  king  &  the  impression  of  ye  crown. 

At  ye  lower  dam    on    this    E.   side,    stood    a    2-storied    house-shaped 

9 


RlCHARD"*"lJrL^ATRTcT~^^f^C'HANT    * 


building,  of  some  bigness,  painted  red,  and  belonging  to  the  Gilpatric  and 
Jefferds  families.  This  was  a  fulling  mill,  where  wool  was  carded  and  some 
weaving  done  at  times.  On  this  same  side,  and  also  beginning  at  ye  highway 
where  ye  Water  St.  is  now  situate,  but  skirting  ye  river  the  whole  distance, 
and  six  rods  wide,  crossing  the  island  and  extending  below  the  head  of  tide 
water,  was  the  "Town  Road",  laid  out  m  Revolutionary  days. 

On  the  Western  bank,  at  ye  lower  edge  of  the  bridge  was  yet  another 
fulling  mill,  owned  by  Nath'l.  Jefferds  Esq.,  and  below  it  stood  a  building 
near  40  ft.  square  used  for  grinding  bark.  Succeeding  this  was  a  two  storied 
barn.  Then  upon  the  bank  of  the  river  below  stood  a  dwelling  house  of  one 
and  two  stories  combined,  and  yet  farther  down  the  stream  was  a  tan  yard. 
Now  in  1828,  Mr.  Jesse  Varney  sold  all  of  these  possessions  to  various  mer- 
chants in  Philadelphia  and  Dover,  N.  H.,  retaining  1-8  interest  himself,  while 
a  small  holding  was  retained  by  William  Lord  Esq.  president,  and  the  Mou- 
sum  Manufacturing  Co.  was  organized,  and  planned  to  do  great  works  on  ye 
old  stream — Before  1S30  they  had  bailt  a  mill  of  two  stories  and  a  basement 
upon  ye  Western  bank  below  ye  bridge,  much  resembling  ye  present  mill 
there,  but  longer  and  with  a  tower  upon  ye  side  with  a  bell.  Just  below  the 
structure  was  a  picker  building  joined  to  ye  mill  by  a  covered  passage  way 
on  the  upper  ground  story  through  which  to  carry  ye  laps  and  belt  for  making 
the  unbleached  cotton  cloth. 

What  of  the  motive  power  of  this  manufactory.  Sir  ?     Ah  yes  !   in   the 

10 


basement  of  ye  mill,  at  the  upper  end  near  ye  bridge,  the  water  brought  by  , 
the  canal  with  thick  plank  sides  and  oak-log  covering,  beneath  ye  highway, 
fell  on  the  wheel  a  little  back  of  its  centre,  from  a  platform  or  shelf  i6  ft. 
wide — And  such  a  wooden  wheel  as  it  was!  i6  ft  wide  horizontally,  and 
20  ft.  in  diameter  vertically — and  revolving  backwards  on  its  iron  axle  instead 
of  forward  as  does  ye  overshot  style.  This  was  the  ponderous  "Breast  wheel," 
a  construction  long  since  extinct  The  theory  of  the  Mfr.  Co.,  was  to  line  ye 
West  bank  ot  the  river  with  quite  six  mills,  reaching  from  ye  bridge  to  beiow 
the  island  and  head  of  tide,  and  all  drawing  water  from  the  one  canal  when 
there  was  scarce  more  than  sulificient  water  to  carry  one  great  wheel  like  that 

used. 

Below  ye  mill  at  ye  lower  dam  was  a  machine  shop  belonging  to  the 
Mfi.  Co.  where  some  of  the  cotton  machines,  and  also  tools  to  construct  them 
were  made — and  succeeding  this  building  were  the  rough  sheds  and  the  store 
house  of  the  Cotton  P'actory — It  was  into  the  latter  small  barn  that  an  affrighted 
deer,  then  a  rare  animal  here,  and  very  poor,  and  utterly  exhausted,  was  pur- 
sued. After  being  cornered  it  was  captured  by  the  watchman  ot  the  mill 
The  co-npany  also  had  a  long,  one  storied  counting  room,  and  very  pleasant 
It  was,  by  ye  highway,  the  West  end  was  fitted  up  with  a  high  accountant's 
desk,  while  the  East  end  served  as  a  cloth  room ;  here  young  girls  folded  the 
cotton  cloth.  The  location  of  ye  mill  was  very  pleasant  also,  with  a  green 
bank  nearby,  and  all  things  about  the  premises  were  kept  in  very  neat  order. 

1 1 


Why  do  you  smile?  Oh,  I  am  thinking  of  an  Englishman  named 
Christopher  Coates  who  was  employed  here  years  ago,  and  who  lived  in  ye 
old  fashioned  hipped  roof  house,  the  last  one  then  on  ye  East  side  of  the 
Wells  road  You  must  know  that  his  brother  sent  two  large  tumblers  to  him 
from  England  ;  possibly  they  were  ale  mugs.  Each  had  a  motto  upon  it. 
Upon  one  was  "Be  good  to  my  boy  Mary" — on  the  other,  "Drink  to  me 
Chris." 

Well,  the  Company  must  do  farming  as  well  as  other  work,  and  on  ye 
Eastern  side  of  the  river  below  ye  present  Kennebunk  house  was  their  large, 
plain  farm  l)arn,  with  end  to  the  street,  and  with  a  cellar,  tie  up  and  hay- 
mows and  where  three  or  four  yoke  of  working  oxen  were  kept,  also  farming 
implements;  and  much  farming  and  other  work  was  done,  and  not  a  few  men 
employed.  Not  a  wise  undertaking  for  a  manufacturing  Co. — surely.  The 
building  was  afterwards  burned,  and  the  depression  of  its  cellar  and  founda- 
tion is  yet  to  be  seen  there. 

.\nd  now  ye  Mfr.  Company  must  needs  have  a  saw  mill,  consequently 
they  removed  ye- red  fulling  mill  on  the  East  side  by  the  lower  dam,  and  built 
a  long  saw  mill  and  painted  it  yellow.  And  here  also  was  ye  fence  and  gate, 
that  enclosed  the  Company's  pasture  property,  and  inside  which  the  towns- 
people gathered  on  Thanksgiving  day  for  ye  turkey  shoot.  All  of  the  Com- 
pany's pasture,  field  and  woodland  on  ye  East  side  of  the  river  here,  was  en- 
closed by  a  good  board  and  post  fence,  and  two  hundred  of  their  three  hun- 

12 


dred  acres  at  ye  Old  Falls  were  fenced  in  also;  which  with  ye  farmintr,  sawing, 
etc.,  was  expending  the  funds  to  small  purpose.  By  ye  West  end  of  the 
bridge  was  a  large,  flat  stone  lying  in  ye  ground,  with  the  date  1830  upon  it, 
which  was  the  year  that  the  mill  was  is  full  operation.  It  so  continued  until 
1850  when  it  was  burned.  It  is  surmised  that  the  Mfr.  Co.  bought  some  of 
ye  Barque  Horace's  cotton  ;  the  vessel  that  was  stranded  on  Boothby's  beach 
70  years  ago.  The  Agent  of  ye  mill  lived  in  ye  great  house  with  a  railing  on 
the  roof,  beneath  ye  Lexington  elms.  From  a  period  beginning  some  15 
years  after  ye  machinery  was  set  a  running  the  Company  made  profit,  but  at 
other  times  they  are  said  to  have  fared  but  slimly,  the  managing  of  such  a 
concern  being  then  not  as  well  understood  as  at  present. 

Thanks !  but  pray  tell  me  what  of  the  tiny,  gambreled  roof  house,  like 
a  child's  toy,  over  yonder  on  the  "Town  Road!''  Ah,  that  little  yellow 
dwelling  was  erected  quite  100  years  since,  and  perhaps  more,  by  one  Bro. 
Littlefield  !  You  must  know  that  it  then  rested  somewhat  above  its  present 
location,  and  sat  on  the  sloping  river  bank,  with  its  considerable  chimney, 
fireplaces  and  oven.  Below,  at  the  rear,  facing  the  stream  was  a  cellar  kitchen, 
very  neat,  and  cased  around  with  boards,  and  a  full  story  above  ground.  The 
chambers  were  small  but  cosey,  and  at  the  upper  end  of  ths  tiny  house  was  a 
small  porch,  and  there  were  steps  on  the  street  side  leading  down  the  em- 
bankment to  the  basement.  Wrought  iron  nails  secured  ye  clapboardsof  the 
little  building,  and  under  the  corner  boards  birch  bark  was  laid.    Here  in  ye  year 


i8i2,  lived  Joseph  Curtis,  Esq.  the  principal  tanner  of  the  town  and  prominent 
citizen. 

Come— we  will  not  linger  here  longer,  but  stray  down  ye  stream  by 
the  "Town  Road  !"  Now  we  must  pause  a  moment,  for  here  below  ye  later 
saw  mill  at  the  lower  dam,  was  in  years  past  a  ford,  where  teams  and 
travellers  were  wont  to  cross  the  river,  and  hereabouts  was  the  first  bridge 
also.  Ah,  and  when  I  was  a  boy  very  good  sea  trout  were  to  be  caught  in 
these  rapids  ;  while  later,  above  the  nearby  dam*  a  small  salmon  was  entrapped. 

Look  to  yon  high  bank  on  the  western  side  !     In  some  spots  ye  spade 
can  scarce  be  driven  down  two  span  because  of  the  rusty  iron-ore  gravel,  and 
besides,  there  are  veins  of  Pyrites,  which  is  iron  ore  in  crystals,  very  pleasing 
to  discover.     And  as  I  recall  it,  one  of  ye  antient  men  who  lived  on  this 
"Town  Road"  long  since,  related  that  some  of  the  ore  for   the  Iron    works 
once  at  ye  Island  below,  was  obtained  in  the  Factory  pasture  near  by.     Now 
we  have  nearly  reached  the  head  of  ye  Island,  and  the  site  of  the  Iron  Works 
dam  of  Revolutionary  days  and  afterward  ;  also  of  its  mill  pond,  which  flowed 
back  to  the  country  road,  situate  then  lower  down  the  stream  than  at  present. 
And  if  you  kick  around  in  the  soil  of  the  Island  here  you  will  find  large  pieces 
of  the  old  slag.      And  did  not  forgeman  Moses  Blaisdell  once  labor  here— he 
who  owned  three   days'   right  in  these  works,  and  dwelt  on  ye  mount  later 
called  Zion's  hill  and  in  the  L.  part  of  the  present  Hon.  R.  W.  Lord's  mansion, 
where  are  the  oak  floor  timbers,  and  birch  bark  is  laid  beneath  ye  clapboards? 

■4 


But  is  there  aught  of  interest  concerning  the  small  inlet  crossed  by  a 
bridge  just  abreast  the  West  side  of  the  Island,  and  with  the  sunken  land 
beyond  it?  I  am  reminded  by  it  of  some  earlier  river  channel — Truly  so 
friend,  you  shall  hear  that  one  of  our  former  aged  residents  once  assured  me 
that  long  ago,  when  his  grandparent  was  a  youth,  a  great  ireshet  coursed 
this  stream,  which  then  Howed  in  a  loop  far  around  to  the  East  in  the  pasture 
yonder.  Then  ye  river  began  to  force  a  passage  for  itself  through  the  narrow 
neck  of  land  at  the  extreme  West  side.  This  the  people  seeing  they  were 
pleased  with,  and  aided  the  stream,  and  the  new  channel  was  formed. 

You  have  heard  of  ye  great  Harrison  celebration  of  the  town  in  the  year 
1 84 1,  have  you  not?  When  the  procession  formed  in  Green  lane  and  other 
town-ways,  and  a  platform  supporting  a  log  cabin  with  a  wild  animal's  skin 
tacked  on  ye  wall  and  with  a  cider  cask  at  ye  door  was  drawn  thro,  the  village 
by  six  horses.  And  it  amuses  me  as  I  think  that  when  the  people  were  busy 
other  ways,  one  of  ye  simple- folk  stole  up,  and  turned  ye  spiggot  of  the  cask, 
but  it  was  empty.  On  the  platform,  besides  a  country  man  with  bow  and 
viol,  dancing,  was  a  swivel  mounted,  and  as  ye  procession  drew  past  ye 
Washington  hall  where  the  Town  house  now  stinds,  they  shot  off  the  swivel, 
and  fractured  all  of  ye  glass  in  the  watch-maker's  window  there.  Yes.  sir, 
'twas  so  !  Well,  then,  besides,  at  the  Eastern  side  of  the  Factory  pasture 
yonder,  the  great  dining  tent  of  that  day  was  pitched,  the  people  loaning 
their  silverware  for  the  feast,  and  as  ye  tent  remained  spread  over  Sunday — 

15 


ye  men  and  boys  from  the  meeting-house  went  down  there  after  service,  and 
helped  themselves  to  all  of  the  edible  bits  that  remained.  Ah,  the  old  town 
saw  happy  days  then  ! 

Have  I  not  heard  rumors  of  numerous  fishing  boats  having  been 
owned  upon  this  stream,  and  even  ol  a  shipyard  near  by  in  former  days  ? 
Truly  so.  Here  on  the  lower  Eastern  bank,  opposite  the  Island,  at  the  head 
of  tide,  where  50  years  since  fine  shad-fish  were  netted,  was  a  boat  landing 
where  two  fishing^  craft  lay.  "But  espy  there,  friend,  a  triHe  below  where  the 
ravine  lies  beneath  the  high  West  bank,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  inter- 
vale and  winding  river.  There  where  the  brooklet  flows  into  the  stream  was 
the  shipyard,  where,  as  ye  antient  people  have  solemnly  afifirmed,  one  Lieut. 
Tobias  Lord  lately  returned  from  Gen.  Gates's  army  on  the  Hudson  river, 
and  other  persons  succeeding  him,  until  later  than  the  year  1800  built  small 
vessels  and  launched  them  slightly  up  the  stream.     And  indeed,  has  not  our 

own  Capt.  C ,  now  healthful  and  robust,  overheard  ye  old  people  relate  in 

times  past  of  a  vessel's  frame  having  been  set  up  in  this  same  ship  yard  with- 
in their  remembrances,  and  were  not  handfuls  of  blacksmith's  spikes  turned  up 
by  the  plow  on  the  site  of  ye  shipyard  in  recent  years,  and  do  not  the  bed-logs 
of  ye  launching-ways  yet  remain  there  beneath  the  tun' in  good  condition  ? 
Truly  they  do,  sir!  Cross  and  see  for  yourself,  friend,  cross  and  see  for  your- 
self !  And  it  is  told  by  one  person  that  vessels  which  were  built  hereabouts 
before  the  year  1800  were  registered  in  York,  and  that  craft  launched  on  ye 

16 


■I  m^ 


-0) 

a 
o 

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H 

ft) 

UJ] 


w 


3 


Mousum  were  floated  around  to  Arundel  on  ye  other  river,  to  be  provided 
with  sails,  spars  and  top  hainper  for  lack  of  good  accommodations  for  that 
work  here.  At  this  yard  in  the  summer  of  1800  was  constructed  by  Nath'l 
Cousens,  Jr.,  ye  brig  Rose  of  179.0S  tons,  and  of  which  Nath'l  Frost  was 
the  chief  owner. 

See  yonder,  on  the  East  shore  opposite  ye  ship  yard!  There  was  the 
'•Town  Landing"  lying  at  the  foot  ot  the  "Town  Road" — Observe,  the  stream 
now  flows  over  a  ford  with  even,  gravelly  floor,  Eastward  and  very  pleasantly 
as  it  borders  a  meadow,  and  has  a  drooping  elm  tree  or  two  upon  its  Western 
bank — and  below  you  will  see  a  rtrm  dyke  reared  upon  the  mound  of  yet 
another  of  an  earler  time,  and  but  a  bit  farther  on  you  may  trace  the  undula- 
ting, irregular  ridge  of  a  long  disused  beaver  dam,  which  meanders  from  yon 
springy,  wooded  bank,  above  the  meadow  to  the  slightly  elevated  portion  of 
the  river  shore.  And,  companion,  formerly  when  elderly  fishermen  were 
passing  on  the  stream  in  their  boat  they  would  call  the  attention  of  one 
another  to  the  sunken  land  that  the  ruined  dam  enclosed,  and  exclaim — "Ah, 
the  beaver  pond  is  fast  becoming  chocked  with  river  refuse!"  Now,  in  this 
neighborhood  the  channel  is  somewhat  obstructed  by  large  bowlders,  and 
look,  here  on  the  East  side  lies  ye  remains  of  a  long  disused  fishing  boat 
falling  to  pieces  amid  the  shrubbery.  And  now  upon  the  same  shore  we 
reach  the  site  of  a  former,  small  fishing  establishment.  It  was  a  low  roofed, 
closed  in,  padlock'^d  shelter,  where  various  masts,  sails  and  oars  were  stowed. 

17 


Here  Master  Cousens's  two  masted  fishing  boat  la}-,  and  ye  large  boat  of  one 
Mr.  Leach.  Other  boats  made  fast  at  the  slight  wharf  as  they  passed  up  or 
down  the  stream,  for  then  it  was  the  habit  of  their  owners  to  drop  down  the 
river  and  out  to  sea  in  the  afternoon,  fish  all  through  ye  night,  and  enter  the 
river  again  with  the  tid<;  on  the  following  day.  Directly  below  this  place, 
upon  the  same  bank  of  ye  stream,  you  will  discover  a  considerable  dyke  of 
olden  time,  with  trees  growing  upon  it,  and,  formerly  mounded  up  to  reclaim 
ye  sedge  of  the  brackish  meadow  that  skirts  the  neighboring  woods.  Cast 
your  glance  yonder  to  the  other  shore,  where  the  field  slopes  down  to  the 
stream — for  there  was  the  fishing  stand  of  Mr.  Richard  Wormwood;  'twas 
where  his  two  masted  fishmg  boat  lay — and  Oh,  so  unfortunate  was  he,  to  be 
o'ertaken  by  ye  waves  when  fishing  in  his  decked  fishing  boat  "'Cascade!'" 

I  must  tell  you  that  many  a  fishing  craft  of  that  time  possessed  a  small 
cabin  wherein  a  cup  of  tea   might  be  brewed  or  a  meal  prepared. 

Scan,  friend,  the  territory  below  there  lying  on  this  East  Shore,  styled 
60  years  since  the  Wise  pasture.  It  has  yet  a  noticeably  long  embankment, 
now  o'ergrown  with  wild  shrubbery  and  some  large  trees.  This  shut  ye  tide 
out  from  a  meadow  joining  the  pasture  bat  now  covered  thickly  with  reeds 
and  bushes.  .At  ye  lower  ead  of  this  dyke  is  the  trace  of  a  considerable  dock. 
It  was  formerly  hollowed  from  ye  soil  with  much  labor,  and  at  its  land  end 
sat  a  small  fish  house,  whil:  on  its  upper  side  was  a  timber  wharf  where  a 
decked,  two  masted  fishing  boat  or  smaller  craft  often  lay. 

18 


But  the  red  sky  warns  us  ot  the  day's  close.  Look,  the  dusk  is  deep  • 
ening  *"aniid  the  alders  green!''  We  must  betake  ourselves  to  our  cosey 
homes,  and  resume  our  stroll  when  another  fair  morn  shall  break. 

•J.  Keats 


19 


DAY    THE    SECOND 


The  morning's  greeting  to  you  friend!  We  will  begin  our  stroll  anew. 
It  was  here  at  the  Wise  pasture  that  we  left  the  stream  at  evening.  Now 
look  over  yonder  at  the  high  West  shore  where  ye  river  bank  is  bordered 
with  oaks,  for  beyond  and  above  them  upon  the  extensive  field,  commanding 
the  welcome  outlook,  in  the  midst  of  planting,  is  the  slight  depression  with  a 
foundation  rock  or  two,  and  scant  fragments  of  brick  scattered  about — of  ye 
former  citizen,  Edward  Evans's  house.  How  early  'twas  there  I  can  scarce 
tell  you.  However,  his  witness  mark  was  attached  to  ye  will  of  William 
Larrabee  at  the  fort  below  on  this  stream  in  1727,  and  'tis  said  that  his  people 
came  from  Arundel — And  Oh,  it  touches  me  with  sorry  when  the  thought 
arises  of  his  two  worthy  sons  who  so  sturdily  marched  to  Fort  Edward  in  ye 
Old  French  war  to  fight  ye  battles  of  King  George  II.  But  their  young  lives 
were  cut  short  by  ye  ambushment  of  the  cruel  salvages.  Ah,  how  oft  they 
have  labored  on  those  familiar  lands  over  yonder,  and  at  eve  rested  by  the 
now  vanished  hearth  stone.      Alas,  alas  ! 

A  tragic  memory  sir,  surely — but  inform  me  what  may  be  the  pursuit 
of  the  two  persons  in  the  boat  that  we  see  in  the  stream  below,  the  one  at  the 
oars  and  his  comrade  standing  in  the  stern  of  the  craft,  and  carrying  along 
pole  with  which   he  strikes  into  the  shore   shallows  of  the  stream — can  those 


be    eel-spearers  ? Certainly    Sir,    &   I   reckon  that  they  have  taken   this 

morn  near  a  hundred  of  the  slippery  creatures,  which  as  the  cool  weather 
approaches  burrow  in  their  muddy  beds— but  are  brusquely  drawn  out  with 
the  spear,  and  tind  a  ready  sale  in  the  near  by  city. 

Behold,  we  have  now  descended   the  river  to  the  bend,  where  on   the 
Eastern  shore  are  deep  ravines  sloping  to  the  water.     Here  also  is  ye  former 
beaver  brook,  and  a  little  above  us,  on  this  rill,  is  the  reputed  grave  of  ye  Indian; 
he  who  was  slain  while  stooping  to  examine  his  traps,  buried,  &  his  musquet 
thrown  into  the  trench  with  him,  but 'tis  said,  'twas  later  exhumed  and  is  above 
ground  yet,   but  1  know  not.      Plowever,  this   I  do  know,  that  little  children 
gathering  berries  in  ye  pasture  So  years  ago,  feared  to  visit  ye  guiley  where 
the  Indian  grave   lay.     Now  some   70  yf^ars  gone  by,  a  young  gent  of  the 
town  enamored  of  the  chase,  chancing  to  cross  this  rill  near  where  it  splashes 
into  ye  river  espied  a  cluster  of  fair  sea  trout  in  its  shallow  waters,  doubtless 
swam  there  to  spawn,  &  there-upon  captured  them  in  his  hands.     Thus  elated 
he  set  a  day  for  his  friends  to  dine  with  him— but  my  informant  was  not  one 
of  the   invited  guests,  else,   mayhap,  he  had  forgotten  the  incident  ere  this 
time.     And  here  at  the  abrupt  elbow  in  the  river  where  it  flows  Southerly  & 
has  a  high.  Eastern  bank,  the  land  above  was  once  an  open  farm,  but  now  is 
grown   thick  with  saplings   bright  with  autumn  foliage.       This  turn  of  the 
water  was  early  styled  the  "Gould  Roundabout"  but  later  'twas  the  Kelley 
bend  because  of  ownership  of  adjoining  land,  but  on  the  hil!  top  you  will 

23 


discover  the  cellar  sinkage  of  the  early  inhabitants  house.  He  too  was  a 
comer  from  Arundel,  &  did  not  Ebenezer  Emmons  also  witness  the  will  of 
VVm.  Larraby  ?  And  here  'twas  that  Samuel  Emmons  dwelt  before  the 
middle  of  ye  i8th  century  &  ended  his  days  on  this  spot,  but  his  four  sons 
and  one  daughter  removed  to  ye  town  of  Coggshall  or  Lyman,  where  one  of 
their  offspring  who  was  ye  first  boy-child  born  there,  received  a  grant  of  i6o 
acres  of  land  from  the  town.  The  family  later  extended  thro'  all  this  region. 
A  bit  below  the  location  of  the  house  and  on  the  river  bank  was  their  place  of 

family  sepulture,  and  I  have  heard  say  how  that  some  50  years  ago  one  of 
ye  family  folk  coming  here,  successfully  searched  for  and  carried  away  with 
him  ye  dust  of  one  of  his  ancestors. 

Tho.  the  trace  of  the  Emmons  house  spot  is  now  so  scant,  yet  in 
later  times,  a  neighbor  assures  me,  that  one  Mr.    Pendleton    Fletcher,    even, 

abode  here. 

Now  we  will  proceed,  and  traverse  this  highland  amid  the  young  trees, 
and  descend  to  the  open,  river  bank,  to  where  the  stream  agam  t]ows  Easterly. 
Behold,  here  is  yet  another  long  meadow  of  salt  or  sedge  grass  skirting  the 
river  and  woods,  and  notice,  it  also  was  once  protected  by  an  e.xtended  dyke, 
but  long  since  neglected,  and  overgrown  with  bushes  and  trees.  At  this 
spot,  many  years  gone  by,  was  ye  shed-like  structure  for  harboring  of  fishing 
gear  of  one  Captain  Joseph  Hatch,  and  in  the  stream  his  fishing  boats  lay. 
And  now  friend,  should  we  follow  the  river  a  short  distance  below,  we  would 

24 


find  an  inflowing  creek,  also  the  same  meadow  extending  there,  and  the  dyke 
continuing  to  the  wooded  hillside  beyond,  and  presently  emerging  from  the 
low  trees  in  the  Larrabee  vicinage,  we  would  discover  a  considerable  marsh 
with  the  trace  of  a  dyke  bordermg  the  river  for  a  short  way  ;  but  we  will  not 
journe}-  there,  our  eel  fishers  w\\\  ferry  us  o'er  to  the  high  Western  bank, 
pleasantly  shaded  by  oak  trees.  Now  I  will  inform  you  that  on  this  rising 
ground  where  was  formerly  a  field,  but  which  is  now  grown  with  youngish 
trees,  was  in  ye  last  part  of  the  ,i8th  century  the  home  of  John  Bragdon.  the 
forebear  of  all  of  ye  families  of  that  name  hereabout.  And  what  shall  we 
say  of  him?  I  will  again  draw  from  my  garment  ye  book  and  read  the  lines 
from  the  poet,  *''It  is  the  sword  of  a  good  Knight,  Though  homespun  was 
his  coat  of  mail  ;  What  matter  if  it  be  not  named  Joyeuse,  Colada,  Durindale, 
Excalibar,  or  Aroundight."  For  was  he  not  a  major  in  ye  Revolutionary  war, 
and  a  descendant  of  Arthur  Bragdon,  councillor  of  ye  city  of  Gorgeana, 
planted  by  ye  great  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  knight,  and  did  not  the  sam« 
Arthur  Bragdon  with  his  wife  Mary,  disembark  at  what  is  now  ye  near  by 
town  of  York  in  ye  long  ago  time  of  1634  ?     Most  truly  he  did,  friend  ! 

Now  at  ye  time  when  the  early  house  was  here,  there  was  not  the  well 
laid  out  road  from  the  village  on  the  West  shore  of  the  river  as  at  present, 
but  a  path  or  cart  track  only,  roughand  circuitous,  near  the  river,  with  bridges 
over  ye  gulleys,  but  later  when  the  present  road  was  plotted, the  worthy  man 
abandoned  his  early  habitation,  &  reared  for  his  family  a  low,  broad,  one-storied 

*I.ongfellow 

25 


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house,  &  a  barn  West  of  it,  by  the  new  highway.  Here  his  hardy  sons  were 
reared.      A.nd  for  one  he  built  a  new  dwelling,  &  divided  the  home  farm  that 

he  might  not  stray  for  work  to  the  nearby  ship-building   town He  it  was 

who  ever  after  followed  the  plow,  and  breathed  his  latest  breath  with  hand 
upon  it.  And  here,  ye  sober  folk  subdued  the  wild  land  with  ye  grubbing  hoe, 
an  implement  the  one  part  hoe,  the  other  part  axe,  &  by  which  were  cut  and 
destroyed  the  tree  roots  that  hamper  cultivation.  Another  route  must  now 
be  found  from  the  new  highway  to  the  lowland  of  the  farm.  Therefore  ye 
river  farmers  gathered  to  assist  their  neighbor,  and  formed  the  deep  cut 
through  the  hillside  yet  to  be  seen  there — which  when  completed,  one  of  their 
number — ascending  the  hillock  &  touching  his  hat  to  his  fellows,  rendered  an 
impromptu  verse  befitting  ye  occasion. 

Gurgling  down  ye  wooded  gulley  on  the  farm's  North  side  was  a  little 
brook,  where  the  cattle  were  driven  to  water  in  winter,  &  which  was  styled 
''Mile  Brook,"  because  it  was  a  mile  from  ye  village. 

Now  a  trifle  below  this  settlement,  &  in  the  midst  of  the  field  yonder, 
bordering  the  river,  which  again  flows  to  the  North,  and  where  on  the  steep 
bank  landslides  with  trees  and  bushes  were  wont  to  descend  into  ye  stream — 
was  the  small,  one  storied  home,  &  also  the  barn  sheltering  two  yoke  of  well 
grown  oxen,  of  one  William  Wormwood,  a  considerable  farmer,  who  had  for- 
merly dwelt  upon  Great  Hill,  and  who  in  descent  was  from  the  early  pioneer 
of  that  family  name,  at  ye  fort  on  the  East  shore  opposite. 

26 


And  now  plodding  by  ye  edge  of  the  field  we  appear  to  have  reached 
the  homestead  of  James  Fernald  ot  ye  former  time.  You  must  know  that  the 
antient  dwellmg  was  a  smallish,  one  storied,  low  eaved  larm  house  without  an 
L-that  stood  at  ye  end  of  the  lane  in  front  of  and  a  bit  S.  &  E.of  the  present 
house,  which  fronts  the  tall  elm  trees  and  brook  that  meanders  thro,  the 
neighboring  meadow  and  marsh  to  the  river  yonder.  In  the  middle  of  the 
ancient  bldg.  was  a  considerable  chimney  with  an  oven — )n  the  brook  side  of 
the  house  was  a  door,  while  another  one  was  at  its  lower  end.  Its  windows 
were  wanting,  but  when  the  new  house  was  built  the  older  structure  was  to 
be  seen,  serving  for  the  storage  of  corn  and  farming  implements,  and  the 
children  were  wont  to  play  in  and  about  it.  West  of  the  house  in  the  lane 
sat  the  capacious  barn,  also  of  the  earlier  time  \  meadow  and  marsh  formed 
parts  of  the  farm,  the  salt  hay  from  the  latter  being  secured  every  season. 
From  the  Western,  wooded  meadow  bank  a  dyke  crossed  the  creek  with  a 
plank  barrier,  the  course  of  the  stream  being  diverted,  and  extended  to  the 
opposite  higher  land,  which  is  an  extensive  field  sloping  from  the  house  to 
the  river  At  the  water  side  a  boat  was  often  moored,  by  which  members  of 
the  family  were  frequently  "set  across"  to  the  opposite  shore  upon  one  errand 
or  another. 

At  ye  highway  upon  the  hill  top  beyond  the  brook  was  a  g-assy  road- 
way, used  only  by  the  country  dwellers,  and  passing  Westerly,  mid  fields  and 
woods,  to  ye  Easterly  highland  of  the  town  of  Wells. 

27 


The  family  was  a  large  one,  and  comprised  13  young  folk  of  varying 
ages,  and  besides,  two  little  ones  had  been  called  home.  Happy  was  the 
rural  life  that  these  good  farm  residents  enjoyed,  for  it  was  the  custom  at  that 
day  for  neighbor  to  visit  neighbor  and  sup  together,  the  children  accompany- 
ing their  parents  and  sharing  in  the  happy  occasion  We  will  now  journey 
onward,  passing  through  this  long  lane,  where  on  its  upper  side  at  the  high- 
way was  formerly  a  small,  gable  roofed  schoolhouse  for  the  few  children  of 
the  neighborhood,  and  visit  another  home  site  of  early  days,  situate  on  land 
near  the  river  and  sloping  pleasantly  toward  it.  This  was  the  dwelling  place 
in  1739  and  earlier  of  Thomas  Wormwood  Jr.,  and  companion,  you  will  be- 
come acquaint  with  the  value  of  land  at  that  far  away  day  when  I  inform  you 
that  in  this  same  year,  it  being  the  thirteenth  of  Geo.  II,  the  yoeman  men- 
tioned paid  ye  sura  of  twelve  pounds  for  a  parcel  of  salt  marsh  but  i  1-2  acres 
in  extent,  situate  upon  a  small  cove  of  the  river,  at  a  little  distance  below  his 
dwelling. 

On  the  marsh  slightly  above  the  creek,  and  near  the  river,  now  observe 
a  green  plot,  covered  only  by  the  higher  tides,  'twas  where  the  men  folk  of 
the  farm  were  wont  to  rear  the  marsh  hay  ricks — the  "Stack-yard"  of  days 
gone  by,  and  but  a  bit  above  it  .may  yet  be  traced  the  mound  of  dyke,  which 
barred  the  salt  water  from  the  creek,  and  enclosed  the  fresh  meadow,  and 
which  locality  has  ever  since  been  styled — Ye  "Wormwood  Cove."  Above 
the  houbC,   upon  a  sandy  knoll,   near  the  traveled  road   was  the  family  burial 

28 


plot  of  succeeding  days,  neatly  enclosed,  and  which  was  used  as  early  as 
1796  Previous  to  which  period  the  family,  which  had  removed  from  the 
Eastern  bank  of  the  river  bilow  the  fort,  had  transferred  its  lost  members 
to  that  shore  and  the  antient  burial-place  there,  by  boat,  and  ever,  in  after 
years,  a  skii^  was  moored  by  the  brink  of  the  stream  at  the  farm,  in  which 
members  of  the  household  might  cross  to  the  Eastern  sho:  e  when  desiring  to 
visit  the  village  above,  because  of  the  shorter  journey  thither.  The  low,  one 
storied,  old  time  house,  with  rafters  of  hard  pine,  which  has  since  been  re- 
moved from  this  to  the  adjoining  farm  below  it — sat  upon  a  green  bank  facing 
the  South — Its  entry-way  and  large  chimney  were  in  the  middle  oi  the  front, 
and  on  either  side  was  a  comfortable  room — one  having  a  high  dado  and  pro- 
jecting posts  in  the  angles.  Without,  at  the  East  corner  of  the  bldg.  was  the 
house-well,  while  another  for  the  cattle  was  near  the  large,  ancient  barn, 
which  rested  West  ot  the  dwelling — it  then  being  a  quite  universal  custom 
in  N.  England  to  place  that  bldg.  thus,  whenever  possible,  that  it  might  not 
be  endangered  by  sparks  from  the  great  wood  fires  of  the  house  chimney,  the 
prevailing  winds  ot  the  year  being  from  the  West — Ha,  ha,  companion.  Do 
you  recall  how  'twas  sang  of  "Acadie,  home  of  the  happy  .^'' 

*'In  doors,  warm  by  the  wide-mouthed  fireplace,  idly  the  farmer 

Sat  in  his  elbow-chair,  and  w  itched  how  the  flames  and  the  smoke-wreaths 

Struggled  together  like  foes  in  a  burning  city.      Behind  him, 

Nodding  and  mocking  alung  the  wall,  with  gestures  tantastic 

Darted  his  own  huge  shadow,  and  vanished  away  in  the  darkness." 

*Longfello\v 

29 


Nearer  the  house  was  the  carriage-shed  and  corn-loft,  while  in  a  hollow- 
between  the  house  and  the  river  stood  the  hut  for  the  swine,  and  at  the  West 
end  and  rear  of  the  dwelling,  and  also  extending  from  it  toward  the  stream 
was  an  extensive  orchard.  In  removing  the  roots  of  these  trees  in  after 
years,  a  very  large  belt,  brass  buckle  of  antique  pattern,  broad  and  embossed, 
was  turned  up,  but  which  very  soon  dropped  to  pieces  so  long  had  it  lain  be- 
neath the  turt — The  strong  hay-land  of  the  premises  West  of  the  house  was 
wont  to  be  styled  the  "Upper  field" — while  that  to  the  South  was  known  as 
the  "Lower  field,"  and  where  in  later  days  an  arrow  head  was  turned  \ip  in 
plowing,  also  a  piece  of  old  time  curiously  figured  bluewire,  but  that  soon 
crumpled  to  pieces.  Thrifty  folk  the  river  husbandmen  were,  and  farmer 
Wormwood  ever  in  his  two  barns  laid  by  a  season's  supply  of  hay  &  corn  & 
other  produce  in  advance,  agamst  a  year  of  short  harvest,  while  in  his  stalls 
two  yoke  of  matured  oxen,  and  other  two  of  growintr  steers  rustled  the  maize 
stalks  as  the  short   winter  days  drew  near.. 

And  now  friend  we  will  take  boat  as  did  the  family  of  former  days, 
and  ascend  &  cross  the  stream  at  a  small  distance  above.  And  here  we  are 
at  the  Easterly  border  of  the  Larrabee  marsh  before  described,  and  at  the 
bend  of  the  river  also,  where  is  a  creek's  mouth,  which  once  had  a  greater 
depth  of  water  than  at  present,  and  where  by  a  slight  wharf  then  lay  the  fish- 
ing boat  of  James  Larrabee.  And  now  we  will  ascend  the  sloping  field.  But 
pray  what  may  the  slight  railed  enclosure  and  dark  head  boards  betoken — a 


place  of  interment?  Truly  so  friend — of  the  two  prominent  mounds  that  you 
see  in  the  enclosure,  the  nearer  one  is  the  resting  place  of  Sergeant  Stephen 
Larrabee,  the  patron  and  commander  of  the  near  by  fort,  and  the  other  that 
of  his  wife  Miriam — The  head  pieces  shadowed  by  the  shrubbery  are  those 
of  members  of  the  hamlet  or  neighborhood.  And  the  descendants  of  ye 
family  aver  that  one  or  two  Indians  rest  hereabouts  as  well,  &  that  there  were 
not  above  four  mounds  of  white  folks  on  this  lower  spot,  but  that  above, 
near  the  brow  of  hill  in  the  field  jonder,  where  was  once  the  palisaded  garrison 
and  its  accompanying  cabins,  or  the  Larrabee  village  as  it  was  styled — which 
was  really  the  first  permanent  settlement  of  the  town — there  where  you  seethe 
memorials  and  rude  headstones  &  boards  and  also  continuing  along  by  the 
edge  of  the  near  by  ravine,  were  to  be  se^^n  long  since,  many  mounds  lying 
every  which  way,  and  the  names  of  various  of  their  sleepers  were  known  to 
ye  people  of  that  time.  And,  indeed  friend,  was  there  not  an  interment  at  the 
garrison  scarce  above  50  years  since,  when  ye  people  came  from  the  road, 
making  a  way  through  ye  snow  in  the  field,  that  some  silent  one  might  rest 
with  kith  and  kin  at  last?     Surely  there  was! 

Now  gaze  about  you  from  the  top  of  this  hill,  how  fair  the  river  is  wind- 
ing down  from  ye  turn  above  ;  see  the  flushed  Western  sky  beyond  the  high 
banks  yonder,  and  espy  down  ye  river  by  yon  sloping  field  and  grove  of  oaks 
there,  and  beyond  the  more  distant  marshes  and  placid  river,  bordered  on  the 
West  side  by  ye  old  farms,  and  see  the  great  hill,  and  ye  vessels  sail  on  the 
twinkling  sea  that  limits  our  view  in  that  direction. 

31 


It  would  appear,  follower,  that  William  Larrabee,  the  pioneer  upon  this 
ground,  and  formerly  a  refugee  from  indian  aggressions  at  the  Eastward,  was 
the  son  of  a  French  immigrant  to  this  country,  who  now,  'tis  said,  rests  in 
the  antient  burial  ground  on  Montjoy  hill  in  the  near  city  of  Portland,  also 
that  William  had  kindred,  possibly  a  brother,  at  N.  Yarmouth,  the  settlement 
from  which  he  fled,  because  of  the  will  of  a  dweller  in  that  town  made  in  1737, 
and  yet  extant,  which  bears  the  name  of  Stephen  Larrabee,  and  also  mentions 
a  wife  Margaret — sons  Stephen  &  John,  daughters  Hannah  &  Margaret,  and 
the  possession  of  a  house,  barn,  &  loo  acres  of  land  besides  live  stock. 

Yet  far  worse  did  William  fare  when  he  came  to  dwell  in  Arundel,  for 
while  securing  the  salt  hay,  ye  heartless  Indians  entered  his  house,  throwing 
their  hatchets  at  ye  children  and  the  wife  lying  upon  the  couch.  And  was 
not  the  coverlet  of  it  long  kept  by  the  family,  and  afterwards  converted  into 
small  bags  and  given  to  the  grandchildren  and  other  descendants  of  ye 
family  ?     And  is  not  one  of  these  tokens  yet  to  be  seen  ?     Truly  so.  Sir. 

Well  companion,  our  fancies  may  present  a  picture  of  the  heavily  tim- 
bered forest,  and  the  smoking  clearings  of  the  pioneer  settlers  of  Kennebunk, 
but  from  the  following  writing  of  the  good  man  William  Larrabee,  the 
neighborhood  of  the  fort  was  far  from  being  entirely  a  wilderness  country 
then. 

He  emphasizes  that  the  document  which  I  show  to  you  is  his  last  will 
and  testament,  and  in  it  commits  his  spirit  to  God  who  gave  it,  and  his  re- 

32 


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mains  to  the  earth  to  be  decently  buried,  and  bestows  upon  his  well  beloved 
son  Stephen  Larraby  (who  was  later  ye  Sergeant)  his  dwelling,  and  land  con- 
taining loo  acres,  with  all  his  marsh  or  meadow,  the  son  paying  all  his  lawful 
debts.  To  his  wife  Kathrine  he  gives  a  third  part  of  his  estate,  and  to  his 
eldest  daughter  Bethia  Look  6  pounds.  To  his  daughter  Sarah  one  cow  and 
calf,  6  pounds  in  money  and  40  acres  of  land.  To  his  daughter  Easter  a 
heifer  of  two  years  old,  6  pounds  in  money  and  40  acres  of  land.  And  to  his 
son  Stephen  all  his  right  and  interest  in  North  (doubtless  meaning  his  pos- 
sessions in  North  Yarmouth)  and  also  the  remainder  of  his  estate  not  disposed 
of  already,  and  appoints  him  to  be  his  executor  and  to  pay  all  legacies  within 
three  years'  time — the  standard  of  value  to  be  in  "currant  or  mowing  land" 
and  sets  his  hand  and  seal  to  the  paper  April  25,  1727. 

An  honorable  record  indeed  friend  of  one  who  had  been  forced  to  flee 
two  homes,  losing  one  family  wholly  by  ye  enemy  and  beginning  domestic 
life  anew.  Yet  in  his  providence  to  his  family  by  his  comfortable  property 
begotten  by  honest  labor,  it  presents  a  pleasant  picture  of  the  Kennebunk 
life  of  that  early  day. 

Now  look  afield.  Interested  one,  toward  ye  roadway  on  yet  more  elevated 
land.  The  low,  old  style  house  beneath  ye  tall  elm  tree  there  was  long  since 
timbered,  all  but  ye  roof,  from  the  remnants  of  the  fort,  and  in  the  cellar  you 
may  yet  behold  the  floor  timbers  with  former  framings.  And  I  will  tell  you 
as  well  that  the  family  owned  land  on  the    E.  side    of    the   present    highway 

33 


where  was  the  later,  one  storied  two  lower  roomed  house  of  ye  Sargeant's 
son  Jesse  into  which  was  built  a  bres  summer  beam  from  the  early  garrison. 
Also  on  either  side  of  the   road  above  &    where  now  are  pine  woods,    was 
formerly  a    pasture — A  bit  West  of  ye  highway  yonder,  amid  the  trees,  is 
the  depression  of  a  house  cellar  and  a  well,  'tis  where  ye   Wakefield  family 
dwelt  formerly,  that  gave  their  name  to  the  hill  E,  of  ye  pleasant  road.     Gaze 
now  to  ye  North  West  where  are  trees  thickly  growing — Yon  tract  extending 
to  the  later    Wise  Dock,  the  family  also  possessed — and  indeed   much  of  it 
was  once  cultivated,  as  ye  former  corn   hills  in  the  woods,  stones   gathered 
from  the   land   &   lengthy  fence  mounds,    upon   which  single  lengths  of  rails 
were  laid,   will   make   us  believe.     Ye  family  generation  of  the  early  part  of 
the  last  century  ever  averred  that  the  site  of  ye  garrison  was  by  the  border  of 
the  ravine  by  ye  woods  and  on  ye  level  ground  of  the  field  in  rear  of  the  bank 
facing  the  stream,   and  that  ye   palisade  extended  near  down  to  ye  present 
neighbor  Furbush  field,  and  they  were  wont  to  trace  the  river  line  of  the  en- 
closure, and  also  that  of  the  ravine  sidf,  which  indeed  yet  appears  to  be  faintly 
visible,  but  to  what  distance  toward  the  east  into  the  field  the  work  extended 
they  knew  not.  as  in  plowing  but  little,  if  any  vestige  remained  thereof  former 
occupation.       But  towards  ye  front  side  many   remains  were  found,  such  as 
broken  earthen  ware  and  dishes,  and  an  indian  stone  hatchet.     The  positions 
of  the  chimneys  of  the  cabins  were  then  shown  and  the  brick  and  clay  debris 
belonging  to  them  were  found.     Formerly  such  relics  were  removed  from  the 

34 


land  in  quantities.  Also  friend,  ye  depressions  where  ye  cabins  sat  were 
then  distinctly  to  be  seen,  as  faintly  they  are  today.  Formerly,  a  few  gun- 
flints,  round  leaden  bullets  &  occasionally,  antique  copper  cents  were  dis- 
covered in  the  garrison  field,  when  it  was  being  cultivated,  and  in  later  years 
a  button,  of  the  bigness  of  a  half  dollar,  and  seemingly  of  silver,  with  orna- 
mented fif^ure  of  a  star  engraved  upon  it,  was  turned  up  by  the  plow.  And 
later  search  on  an  evident  hearth-spot  produced  a  perfect  quahog  shell,  be- 
sides those  of  smaller  bivalves  in  abundance,  all  mingled  with  fragments  of 
rude  bricks,  scant  remnants  of  wrot.  iron  nails,  bits  of  glazed  and  unglazed 
earthen  ware  dishes  and  crockery,  broken  clay  pipe,  also  charcoal  in  a  per- 
fect state  of  preservation,  and  small  fragments  of  bones  of  domestic  animals. 
After  the  close  of  the  French  and  indian  wars  the  Larrabee  family 
scattered  afar,  some  of  its  members  rtmoving  to  Scarboro — ^Joel  a  son  of  the 
Sargeant,  in  1776  acquired  land  when-  is  now  ye  antient  Larrabee  farm  on 
Kennebunk  river,  and  removed  thither.  He  it  was  who  transmitted  to  our 
day  the  record  of  the  faithful  little  companion  dog  belonging  to  the 
Sargeant,  and  that  ever  gave  warning  to  him  of  the  approach  of  an  indian 
enemy.  This  little  friend  accompanied  him  whenever  he  visited  the  woods, 
promptly  warning  him  of  the  near  presence  of  a  savage.  A  few  of  these 
dusky  people  were  desirous  of  slaying  the  Sargeant,  but  the  more  sagacious 
ones  of  their  company  observed,  "No,  not  kill  him,  he  is  an  aged  man,  and 
cannot  do  us  harm,  but  catch  him." 

35 


The  name  Joel  was  a  favorite  title  in  the  branch  of  the  family  that  I 
have  mentioned  to  you,  for  when  the  present  honored  representative  of  that 
name  first  saw  the  light  of  the  world,  the  maternal  parent  desired  to  bestow 
upon  him  the  title  of  Francis,  but  the  father  sternly  replied,  "No,  Joel  he 
shall  be  called''  and  thus  the  antient  Bible  name  was  transmitted  to  the  3rd 
generation.  Now  besides  the  two  sons  of  the  Sargeant  that  I  have  before 
mentioned,  there  were  also  Stephen  and  William,  and  the  daughters  Mary, 
Lydia,  Catherine  and  Esther.  I  will  also  tell  you  that  Ex.  Gov.  Larrabee  of 
Iowa  of  later  years  was  related  to  ye  Kennebunk  family  of  this  name.  And  now 
companion,  you  shall  know  of  one  or  two  of  ye  tales  concerning  the  people 
or  the  form'ir  times  and  of  the  garrison,  that  the  fathers  and  mothers  whose 
memories  went  back  to  the  time  of  the  Revolution  have  related.  Ah,  happy 
thoughts  would  visit  us  could  we  better  know  the  social  life  here  ot  that  day, 
when  the  Sargeant  was  one  of  the  early  Parson  Little's  first  Deacons,  and 
there  were  eighteen  weddings  in  the  Parish  in  one  year!  And  did  not  the 
Sargeant  and  his  wife  Miriam  mingle  in  the  first  dance  at  the  marriage  of  his 
grandson  Jesse,  above,  on  the  road  yonder?  And  was  it  not  the  custom  of 
the  Parson  at  such  a  time  to  take  two  glasses  of  wine — the  one  for  himself  & 
the  other  for  his  wife,  and  did  not  the  guests  salute  the  bridegroom  and  wish 
him  much  joy?  Surely  I  know  'twas  thus  by  the  word  of  one  who  partici- 
pated in  ye  scenes.  And  I  will  tell  you  how  one  Mr.  Thomas  Boothby  was 
wont  to  relate  that  at  the  time  of  an  Indian  alarm  when  ye  people  fled  to   the 

36 


palisadoed  refuge,  a  good  woman  living  in  ye  middle  part  of  the  town  quit 
her  home  for  the  fort,  leaving  a  lone  goose  there  "setting''  upon  a  nest  of 
eggs.  After  a  short  stay  at  the  garrison,  the  worthy  housewife  became  con- 
cerned for  the  welfare  of  ye  goose,  and  summoning  her  courage,  and  prepar- 
ing herself  for  the  journey,  ventured  to  the  homestead,  and  returned  to  the 
fort  in  safety  with  the  goose  and  her  goslings. 

And  it  once  so  happened  that  a  child  of  the  garrison,  belonging  to  the 
Sargean;,  he  who  was  much  feared  by  ye  indian  inhabitants,  even  in  peacea- 
ble times,  wandered  from  the  fort,  and  was  intercepted  by  the  salvages,  who 
thereupon  caught  the  best  horse  in  the  place,  and  mounting  one  of  their  own 
people  upon  it,  and  binding  his  lower  limbs  thus  secured  the  child  beneath  ye 
horse's  body — and  so  contrived,  rode  to  and  fro,  up  and  down  in  this  same 
field  to  vex  the  people  in  the  strong  house.  But  as  the  horse  and  his  rider 
happily  drew  nigh  to  the  fort,  the  parents  gave  direction  to  shoot,  as  they 
had  rather  that  the  child  were  dead  than  to  be  thus  tortured.  As  ye  musket 
belched  forth,  the  savage  slid  beneath  ye  body  of  the  horse,  which  sped  away 
at  a  run — but  by  great  mercy  the  child  was  at  last  brought  safely  to  its 
parents  nor  was  the  animal  injured.  And  f  irther  it  was  related  by  grand- 
father Gilpatric  that  on  occasion  when  ye  indians  may  have  had  the  Sergt.  at 
a  disadvantage  they  assured  him  that  they  intended  to  lead  him  to  Canada 
with  them,  but  he  answered  them  that  he  was  prepared  to  go.  Now  there 
was  a  spot  of  clear  ground   up  by  ye  parsonage  where  the  horses  were  wont 

37 


to  go  to  graze,  and  the  Sergt.  on  a  day  taking  his  musket,  went  by  that  path, 
and  ere  long  discovered  his  horse  with  an  indian  mounted  upon  its  back,  and 
other  savages  by  his  side.  Directly  he  shouted  to  the  enemy  to  come  out  as 
he  desired  to  slay  them — which  proved  to  be  too  much  of  a  surprise  for  ye 
gentry — and  the  Sargeant  securing  his  horse  returned  home  fearless.  Now 
the  aged  informant  of  these  events  devoutly  wrote  that  the  glory  for  the 
rescue  must  be  given  to  Providence  who  stood  as  some  bright  star  in  behalf 
of  that  generation. 

And  now  friend,  that  Sargeant  Larrabee,  yeoman  and  guardian  of  the 
infant  settlement  was  yet  living  here  in  the  last  part  of  ye  iSth  century — is 
apparent  from  an  existing  deed,  in  which  after  the  payment  of  one  shilling 
duty,  and  of  his  personally  appearing  Apr.  30,  1793,  it  mentions  that  for  a 
certain  sum  of  money  paid  to  him  by  his  son  Jesse  and  for  the  use  ot  a  room 
in  his  house  and  comfortable  support  during  lifetime  of  the  aged  mother,  the 
Sargeant  deeds  to  him  the  home  lot  lying  on  the  Easterly  side  of  Mousam 
river,  between  the  lands  of  Samuel  Emmons  and  Benjamin  Wormwood,  also 
50  acre?  of  land  formerly  purchased  of  John  Sinclair,  and  2-t,  of  the  marsh 
previously  bought  of  Nathan  Wells  Esqr.  and  a  thatch  bed  that  he  formerly 
had  from  Jno.  Cole,  (The  Sergt.  being  the  owner  of  the  lowermost  Thatch 
Island  as  it  was  called  in  Mousam  river — at  that  time  comprising  nearly  3 
acres  of  land)  besides  one  half  of  the  interests  in  the  Saw  mill  and  grist  mill 
on  the  stream  at  the  village  near  the  county  road  with  the   Building    and 

38 


Privileges  belonging  to  the  premises — This  was  his  voluntary  act  &  the  Rev. 
Daniel  Little  was  one  of  the  witnesses  of  the  deed. 

Thus  his  long  life  was  closed  by  an  act  of  forethoueht  and  care  for  the 
welfare  of  his  worthy  wife,  the  companion  of  his  later  years. 

Ah,  friend,  as  interestmg  as  this  locality  is,  we  must  now  continue  on 
our  journey.  Here  in  the  near-by,  adjoining  field,  which  was  formerly  a 
portion  of  the  Larrabee  farm,  there  was  once  found  in  plowing  a  stone  club 
nearly  z  ft.  in  length,  besides  several  Indian  arrow  heads,  one  being  a  very 
perfect  chipping,  also  an  indian  fishing  sinker,  But  now  we  will  cross  ye 
fence,  by  this  line  of  trees  onto  friend  Butland's  farm,  here  but  a  trifle  below 
the  surface  (jf  the  ground  on  the  high  bank  &  in  view  of  the  river,  was  dis- 
covered a  while  since,  during  some  excavating,  a  place  of  probable  mdian 
burial,  as  the  skeleton  was  in  a  sitting  posture,  Fortunately  ye  larger  of  the 
relics  were  recovered  &  in  ye  debris  were  two  stone  implements,  the  one  being 
an  axe  ;  the  other  which  was  some  14  in.  in  length,  with  end  eased  for  grasp 
of  the  hand,  was  styled  a  weapon,  but  some  persons  named  it  a  pestle  for 
pounding  ye  maize  with.  At  ye  same  time,  near  this  spot,  a  copper  coin 
was  thrown  out  with  the  gravel,  which  if  3e  later  owner  recognizes  it  among 
others,  shows  the  figure  of  a  shield  &  the  words  E  Pluribus  Unum  with  year 
1784  upon  one  side,  while  upon  the  obverse  was  depicted  a  horse's  head  and 
a  plow.  And  besides,  a  very  perfect  indian  gouge,  once  hollowed  with  much 
industry  from  stone,  was  espied  &  rescued  from  the  sand. 

39 


And  now  you  will  notice  below  the  row  ot  trees  and  at  a  little  distance 
in  rear  of  the  steep  river  bank  a  slight  rise  of  land.  This  is  styled  ye  "House 
Piece"  for  upon  it  rested  the  small  dwelling  of  John  Look  in  garrison  times — 
he  who  had  taken  Bethia  Larrabee  to  be  his  wife,  but  after  a  time  neighbor 
Look  removed  to  another  town,  and  John  Butland,  the  Ship-builder  dwelt  in 
ye  house,  but  some  time  later  it  was  drawn  up  to  ye  highway  yonder  where 
it  yet  remains. 

Did  1  not  once  hear  you  speak  of  a  former  Ship  yard  on  this  reach  of  the 
river  Sir?  Yes,  comrade,  you  did.  I  will  now  lead  you  to  the  quite  noted 
site,  and  yet  styled  "The  Butland  Ship  Yard.''  Observe,  we  descend  the  slope 
of  the  hill,  below  the  steep,  wooded  river  bank  by  ye  same,  altho.  now  grassy 
roadway  used  so  long  ago.  Is  it  possible,  is  it  possible?  and  could  this 
sheltered  spot  at  the  upper  limit  of  the  marsh  have  once  been  a  busy  ship 
yard  &  did  this  stream  by  our  side  ever  Hoat  sea-going  craft  ?  Truly  so, 
companion,  for  here  John  Butland,  the  ship  carpenter,  who  was  born  in  the 
near  by  garrison  in  1744  in  time  of  war,  laid  the  keels  for  and  completed  12 
vessels  of  varying  tonnage,  one  of  the  last  being  the  small  brig  Triton  meas- 
ured and  registered  at  139.70  tons,  Oct.  26,  1802.  whilst  Sargeant  Larrabee 
built  one  other  craft  here.  And  I  will  also  inform  you  that  the  high  land  at 
the  head  of  the  marsh  beside  this  grove  was  formerly  styled  "Yard  Hif!," 
because  ot  the  ship  yard  and  landing  at  the  foot  of  its  lower  slope,  and  that 
within  recent  years  the  bed  logs,  which  supported  the  launching  ways  of  the 

40 


Si  I  J  ,  B      i-f  %  ,   m: 


o 

h 

air 


=1 


yard  below  the  steep  hill  side,  were  yet  remaining  in  position,  and  also  that  the 
few  existing  logs  of  a  wharf  extended  from  the  river  bank  And  did  not  ye 
mariner  John  Wells,  who  dwelt,  when  at  home  from  sea,  in  ye  old  homestead 
once  down  yonder,  and  whom  our  Captain  at  Kennebunk  well  remembers — 
once  perform  a  voyage  to  the  West  Indies  in  a  top  sail  schooner  that  was 
built  on  the  Mousam  river?  And  also  did  not  ye  same  Captain's  mother,  who 
was  born  in  ye  year  1807,  when  youthiul  behold  a  new  vessel  that  was  built 
upon  this  river  being  warped  out  of  it,  by  way  of  the  canal  at  ye  rear  of  Great 
Hill  yonder?  And  was  it  not  the  good  fortune  of  our  friend  down  there  below 
on  ye  road,  &  who  obtains  his  livelihood  from  the  sea,  to  be  acquaint  with 
one  aged  seafarer,  Wm.  Littletield  of  Wells,  who  assured  him  that  he  had 
once  sailed  to  ye  West  Indies  in  a  square  topsail  sloop,  that  was  built  and 
launched  upon  this  same  Mousam  stream  ?  Surely  friend,  these  relations  are 
true,  but  if  you  are  yet  incredulous,  sit  you  upon  the  root  of  the  oak  that 
shadows  ye  old  time  launching  place,  and  I  will  stoop  beside  you,  &  declaim 
the  following  contract  of  remote  day  that  relates  to  this  very  ground  whereon 
we  now  repose — Thus  I  will  begin. 

"This  Agreement  made  and  Concluded  on  betw'-en  Joseph  Churchill  of 
Arundel  in  ye  County  of  York,  Merchant  of  ye  one  Part,  und  John  Butland  of 
Wells,  Ship  Carpenter  iu  County  aforesiid  of  the  other  Part.  Witnesseth 
that  the  sd  John  for  the  Consideration  hereafter  mentioned — Promeseth  and 
agrees  with  ye  sd  Joseph  to  Build  and  Completely  finish  ye  Hull  or  Bodde  of 

41 


a  half  Deck  top  sail  schooner  of  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  tons  or  there- 
abouts, of  ye  following  Dimensions,  fifty  seven  feet  Keel,  twenty  four  foot 
Beam  and  Nine  feet  or  ten  feet  Hold  as  sd  Joseph  shall  Direct  and  find  all 
the  wood  materials,  suitable  for  the  same — Except  such  Wood  as  the  Block- 
maker  shall  stand  in  Need  of,  and  Deliver  her  Completely  finished,  below  all 
falls  or  Shoals  inMusum  River  by  the  fifteenth  Day  of  August  Next  ensuing — 
the  sd  Schooner  to  be  Built  with  all  White  Oak  above  Water,  and  all  good 
Oak  under  Water,  and  to  have, two  streaks  at  the  Hoor  timber  heads,  and  one 
streak  under  the  Wales  of  three  inch  Plank,  and  all  the  out  Board  Plank  to 
be  Whiti^  Oak,  and  not  under  two  inches  and  a  half  thick  the  ceiling  Plank 
to  be  of  good  oak  the  Plank  for  the  Decks  to  be  good  White  Pine  of  the 
length  of  the  half  Deck,  and  two  inches  and  a  half  thick  the  masts  and  Bow- 
sprit to  be  good  White  pine,  and  of  Dimensions  as  sd  Joseph  shall  Direct  the 
spars  of  the  Best  Spruce,  and  the  sd  Joseph  Promiseth  to  pay  the  sd  John 
two  Pound  thirteen  shillings  and  four  Pence  for  Each  and  every  ton  that  the 
sd  schooner  shall  t  m  when  Built  the  Pay  to  be  in  the  following  Manner,  one 
fifth  Part  to  be  Payd  in  Cash — one  Quarter  Part  in  West  India  goods — one 
Quarter  in  Provisions  and  the  other  part  in  English  goods  at  such  a  Rate  as 
the  sd  Joseph  sells  for  Lash  Pay — the  West  India  Goods  and  Provisions  to  be 
of  the  following  Prices.  New  England  Rum  to  be  two  Shillings  per  gallon — 
Molasses  at  one  Shilling  and  eight  Pence  per  gallon,  Cotton  wool  at  one 
Shilling  and  Eight  Pence  an  ell — Coffee  at  one    Shilling    and  four  Pence   a 

42 


Pound,  Chocolate  at  one  Shilling  and  Six  Pence  per  Pound,  Corn  at  four 
Shillings  per  Bushell.  Pork  at  tour  Pound  ten  Shillings  and  Eight  Pence 
per  Barrel.  Cod  fish  at  Seventeen  Shillings  per  Quintel,  and  other  articles 
of  the  the  Provisions  and  West  India  goods  to  be  at  the  same  advantage — 
the  Pay  to  be  at — at  or  before — and  to  the  true  and  faithful  Performance  of 
the  Agreement  and  Every  Part  of  the  Same  the  sd  Parties  Bind  &  oblige 
themselves  to  the  other,  to  the  other  in  the  Penal  Sums  of  four  hundred 
Poundsto  be  Paid  by  the  Party  failing  to  the  Party  observing  the  same — 
\n  Witness  the  sd  Parties  have  hereunto  Interchangably  set  their  Hands  and 
Seals  this  first  Day  of  November  in  the  thirteenth  year  of  his  Majesties 
Reign — annoque  Domini  1773 
Signed  Sealed  and  Delivered 

in  Presence  of  Joseph  Churchill     r°1 


Jacob  Curtio,  Jr. 


Amdins  Burley 


Note  the  word  all  good 
oak    under    Water  was 
interlined  before 
Signmg  and  Sealing 


It  is  further  agreed  that 

the  sd  John  shall  be  supplied 

with  things  as  goods  and  Provisions 

as  he  shall  call  for  them — '' 


This  friend  was  far  from  being  ye  end  of  the  work  here,  for  a  paper  is 

43 


yet  in  existence  signed  Auijust,  1784,  by  one  Joseph  Storer,  mentioning  that 
work  could  not  progress  in  the  Butland  Ship  yard  by  reason  of  insufficient 
timber  and  plank — but  that  activities  would  be  resumed  when  the  supplies 
arrived.  And  there  is  also  another  paper  relating  to  this  yard,  which  I  will 
read  to  you. 

"York  ss  Wells  July  29,  1790  Then  personally  appeared  John  Butland  Jr., 
Benj.  Wormwood  &  Moses  Drown  and  made  solemn  oath  that  (certain  per- 
sons all  of  Wells  and  whose  names  I  will  not  read)  have  tailed  in  supplying 
John  Butland  of  said  Wells  with  Timber  &  other  materials  for  building  a 
schooner  as  per  agreement,  which  obliges  said  Butland  to  lie  still  for  want  of 
Work  &  the  aforesaid  Parties  have  failed  in  making  payments  according  to 
agreement  for  said  schooner. 

Betorc  me  Benj'n.  Brown,  Justice  Peace." 

And  was  not  Justice  Brown  ye  same  person  who  built  ye  Brown  man- 
sion yet  existing  on  Main  St.  in  the  town  &  also  ye  formerly  very  long,  but 
now  divided  house,  that  was  termed  Barnabas  Palmers's  on  the  same  street 
above  it  ?  Surely  so.  And  if  you  would  see  how  the  gentry  of  the  town 
costumed  themselves  at  that  day  now  gaze  at  the  miniature  ol  the  able  Justice, 
which  I  draw  from  its  case  to  show  to  you. 

And  thus  we  have  reached  a  conclusion  concerning  the  ship  yard,  but 
have  you  ever  known  how  that  a  worthy  dweller  of  this  locality,  near  this  time, 
who  possessed  a  plot  of  land  18  3-4  rods  wide,  extending  from  ye   Mousum 

44 


river  marsh  over  to  ye  Kennebiink  Landing  heath  out  of  his  affection  and 
good  will  to  his  three  children,  William.  Susannah  and  Rebecca,  gave  to  each 
of  them  a  strip  6  1-4  rods  wide  for  theentire  distance? — Ah,  me,  would  that 
we  were  better  acquaint  with  ye  homely  ways  of  ye  early  day! 

And  now  may  we  picture  the  later  days  of  the  noted  Ship  Builder,  who 
altho.  once  quite  tall  of  stature  was  at  last  bowed  by  weight  of  years,  and 
made  nearly  helpless  by  infirmities,  but  he  was  carefully  cared  for  by  loving 
hands  in  ye  little  house  by  the  roadside,  where  one  day  as  he  was  resting  in 
his  wide,  old  fashioned  chair,  pensively  gazing  into  ye  open  fire,  a  child  of 
tender  age  innocently  gambolling  about  ye  room,  by  chance  grazed  ye  cane 
by  which  he  was  supported  when  he  fell  and  was  sadly  seared  by  the  live 
embers.  In  vain  did  the  kind  folk  of  the  household  apply  cooling  leaves  to 
the  hurts  for  within  a  few  days'  time  the  good  man  had  passed  to  his  rest  in 
the  year  1828. 

Sir,  1  believe  most  truly,  I  believe  all  that  you  have  told  me  relating  to 
the  Ship  building  and  those  persons  who  took  part  in  it,  and  now  we  will 
journey  onward,  for  I  desire  to  learn  more  of  this  historic  stream  and  the 
former  dwellers  upon  its  banks.  We  will  ascend  to  the  top  of  "Yard  Hill", 
and  again  pursue  our  way  seaward  on  the  highland — Look  yonder  at  ye 
promontory  like  jutting  of  field  not  distant  from  which  one  aged  Capt.  Frazier 
and  neighbor  Furbish  long  since  plowed  up  a  collection  of  antient  iron  pots 
and  kettles,  which  they  ascribed  to  some  dwelling  once  erected  there  within 

45 


reach  and  protection  of  the  garrison  above.  And  espy  there— another 
pleasant  headland  below  this  spot,  where  is  a  dark  headstone  or  two  &  also  a 
newer  white  one  among  the  wild  shrubbery,  for  there  we  might  linger  awhile 
in  the  sunlight,  and  gaze  off  upon  the  mar.sh  and  river— This  ground  which 
appears  to  have  once  been  long  enclosed  be  a  fence,  was  the  former  burial 
plat  of  ye  Butland  family  &  here  rests  the  worthy  ship  builder  and  his  wife, 
also  the  elder  members  of  the  Thomas  Wormwood  family. 

And  now  as  we  saunter  on  our  way  we  may  scuff  about  here  in  ye  field, 
before  r-aching  the  marshy  inlet,    at  the  slight  depression  on  the  low  green 
eminence,  styled  "Clover  hill,"  perchance  we  may  discover  indications  of  ye 
house  site  of  Thomas   Wormwood,  the  pioneer  settler,   who  in  1727  affixed 
his  name  to  neighbor   William   Larrabee's  will   document.      Nov^  you  must 
know  that  the  original  immigrant  of    ^e    Wormwood   family   located  on  the 
Isles  of  Shoals,  but  in   the  year    1661  Jacob    Wormwood  came  to  the  town  of 
Cape  Porpoise,  &  later,  in  ye  reign  of  King  George  the  ist.,  and  ere  the  year 
1720  was  leached,  Thomas  Wormwood  the  3rd   in  descent  from  ye  immigrant 
journeyed   hither  to  make  for  himself    a  home  and  build  a  house  upon  the 
Eastern  side  of  ye  Mou.sum  river.     And  Ah  friend,  30U  little  realize  the  forti- 
tude of  ye  yeomanry  of  this  and  other  families  of  our  town  in  those,  and  the 
later  time  when  they  sought  to  establish  independence  from  the  King— for  did 
not  Abijah  Wormwood  write  to  his  friends  here  at  home  in    1776  from   Mt. 
Independence,  Ticonderoga,  that  he  had  suffered  everything  but  death  in  the 

46 


service — from  want  of  provisions.  He  had  also  experienced  defeat,  and  had 
been  captured  by  the  savages,  but  yet  he  blessed  God  that  his  life  was  spared 
when  many  of  his  soldier  comrades  had  fallen  about  him. 

Now  we  will  cross  the  marshy  land  to  ye  oak  and  pine  wood  beyond. 
But  stay  here  a  moment  near  the  bank,  at  the  foot  of  the  long  reach  of  the 
river  from  above,  and  where  is  ye  bend,  and  at  ebb  tide  ye  sand  island,  on 
which  excellent  shellfish  are  found,  and  where  the  sea  gulls  often  congregate 
in  winter.  For  at  this  place  our  neighbor  up  yonder,  was  reposing  a  short 
while  since,  when  what  should  he  espy  but  four  otters  of  a  brown  color, 
emerge  from  ye  wood-side  and  scamper  o'er  this  bit  of  marsh  to  ye  small 
creek  opposite  In  vain  did  he  essay  to  o'ertake  them  and  do  them  hurt  with 
a  club,  hastily  caught  up,  before  the}-  should  reach  ye  river — Now  shortly 
after  this  incident  two  Indian  boys  that  the  neighbor  met  gathering  ye  sweet 
grass  here,  assured  him  that  it  was  the  habit  of  the  otters  to  visit  the  salt 
water  at  times  to  fish  in  the  brackish  ponds,  after  which  they  would  return 
to  the  up  river  country  again. 

Ah!  here  we  are  at  the  cellar  in  the  woods  nearly  abreast  ye  head  of  the 
marshy  inlet — See  it  has  good  depth,  and  a  very  evident  line  of  earth  covered 
wall  at  the  upper  surface  about  it,  and  outside  near  by  lies  a  loose  rock  or  two 
once  evidently  detached  from  the  walls — for  'twas  here  that  the  homestead  of 
John  Freeze,  one  of  ye  early  inhabitants,  stood  quite  i6o  years  since  &  later 
when  ye  land  now  wooded  was  open.     And  does  not  the   field   now  existing 

47 


below  this  spot  yet  bear  his  name?  Indeed  it  does,  Sir!  And  one  of  the 
resident  folk,  who  dwelt  upon  ye  road  above,  at  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century — would  in  after  years  repeat  that  frequently  farmer  Freeze  would 
make  a  neighborly  call  at  the  house  where  she  dwelt,  and  that  when  a  violent 
storm  arose  it  was  his  habit  to  say — "There  must  be  a  drownded  man  in  ye 
sea,"'  because  of  ye  disturbance  of  the  elements. 

And  now  we  may  visit  ye  goodly  bank  and  grove  at  the  river  side  where 
by  its  shelter  sits  the  fine  boat,  now  6  years  out  of  water,  &  see  it  is  near  26 
ft.  in  length  &  with  8  ft.  breadth  of  beam  &  above  3  tons  burthen.  In  service 
it  was  steady  and  worked  well,  carrying  two  masts  withspritsaiis,  and  a  bow- 
sprit near  10  ft.  overboard  with  a  jib.  In  ye  overhanging  stern  behold  a 
locker  for  spare  sails  and  clothes — I  assure  you  friend  that  she  was  built  in  6 
week's  time  by  neighbor  Pitts  on  the  road  above,  unaided,  in  a  blacksmith's 
shop,  on  ye  other  river,  and  of  a  truth  the  craft  nearly  occupied  the  entire 
building.  With  a  temporary  board  deck  and  dory  tagging  astern  did  she  not 
once  visit  Jeffries  Ledge,  40  miles  distant  from  Cape  Porpoise,  with  neigh- 
bor at  the  helm,  remain  out  all  night,  and  on  the  following  morn  sail  with  a 
full  fare  of  great  cod  iish  into  Portland  harbor  without  shipping  the  least 
water,  so  considerable  was  her  breadth  of  beam — so  light  her  bow,  and  so 
long  her  run  ?  Indeed  she  could  scarce  come  up  ye  Mousam  river,  but  at 
half  tide.     But  a  long  rest  is  the  "Black  Cloud"  now  having. 

Well,  friend,  as  we  stroll  onward,  I  recall  that  an  acquaintance  of  long 

48 


5r\t*'':: 


:si«s? 


*f 


o 

o 

-J 
o 

v: 
u 

< 


residence  here  has  assured  me  of  collections  of  shells  having  been  found, 
many  years  since,  in  the  woods  near  by.  Evidence,  it  is  probable,  of  former 
Indian  inhabitants.  But  notice — beyond  at  a  distance  from  the  river,  in  the 
half  clearing  &  at  a  little  above  ye  fresh  water  pond  where  ye  good  folk  hus- 
band the  ice  in  winter.  There,  among  the  pine  stumps  of  considerable  age 
is  a  goodly  number  of  white  rocks,  the  single  ones  each  being  quite  sufficient 
for  a  person  to  carry.  Surely  you  never  beheld  the  like  stones  elsewhere 
hereabout,  and  consider — some  resemble  coral,  fresh  from  the  reef.  Ah 
friend  indeed  they  are  coral  stones  and  the  incident  of  their  discovery  is  this ! 
Ye  aged  Daniel  Drown  who  came  into  ye  world  near  the  beginning  of  ye  last 
century  &  who  was  formerly  a  dweller  near  this  farm  had  not  memory  of  ye 
land  ever  being  cleared  here,  nor  had  it  been  cultivated  within  his  time,  but  ye 
neighbor  Barney  up  yonder,  ever  active  for  improvements,  cleared  ye  land  of 
the  young  trees,  but  did  not  espy  the  rocks  until  when  ye  fire  was  lighted, 
and  all  ye  branch  litter  and  leaf  gatherings  were  consumed  by  the  flames, 
when  were  seen  ye  coral  rocks  showing  white  in  the  soil,  some  of  them  on 
the  surface  while  others  protruded  from  it.  It  chanced  that  some  were 
smooth,  but  others  showed  all  of  ye  irregularity  of  the  polyps  work  of  the 
southern  seas — Ballast  rocks  truly  friend — ballast  rocks  believe  me,  removed 
long  since,  and  deposited  in  this  hitherto  unused  spot,  from  some  small  W. 
India  vessel  that  then  entered  this  river. 

And  now  as  we  ramble  onward  consider  Comrade  the    marsh  dykes  that 

49 


we  have  eneo.n.ered  i„  „„  ,„„  &  ,,;,,,  „„^  ^^^       ^^^^  .^  _^^^   ^^_^^^^ 
leve,  with  ye  .a.sh  b,  reason  o,  ^rea.  age.  b„,  ye.  ,„  so.e  ,e„g,h,  i„  ac- 
companying ditch  s,il,  exis..  and  see,  i,  extends  ,ro.  the  ch.ster  o.  s„,a„ 
P.nes  to  vo„  gtove  of  oaks,  once  redeeming  a  p„„io„  of  ye  sal,  ntarsh  fton, 
>!-=  .Me.       And  yonder  is  another  dyke,   presenting  <,nite  a  barr.er  to  the 
water  yet,  having  s.al,  ,og  work  sparingly  seen  to  offset  its  wash,  this  en- 
closes a  considerable  nteadow-There  a,  a  short  distance  above  it  is  a  third 
dyke,  skirting  the  higher  land,  and  formingasafe  mound  npon  which  to  j„t,r- 
ney.  &  beyond  yet  more  distant  is  another  embankment  that  boldly  barriers  a 
^alt  grass  n.eadow  &  creek  within  it,      Ihese  remains  evidence  earnest  work 
once  upon  the  land.  And  behold  mnch  flotsam  &  ietsam  that  have  been  brought 
by  the  spring  tides  discover  their  voyages  ended  on  the  outward  sides  of  these 
old  time  dykes.     Now  inspect  the  litter,  here  is  a  gaunt  birch  tree  stem  there 
batrel  staves  &  broken  boa.  boards,  atmour  „,  crabs  and  lesser  debris.     And 
espy  yonder  is  a  cluster  of  driftwood  gathered  by  some  provident  person  tor 
future  use.  &  which  presen.s  a  s.udy  by  i.s  vatiety-with  bleached  roots  & 

branches  of  trees — the  head  of  a  rad-  9r  ^fU      u- 

me  nead  ot  a  cask  &  other  bits  of  wood  in  many  forms,  all 

neatly  stowed. 

Come  now.  we  will  sojourn  onward  though  we  tire,  but  observe,  we  have 
reached  ye  clay  hill  at  last  1  Now  we  may  ascend  the  low  eminence  where 
.he  ocean  is  .„  lull  view-As  regards  this  location,  the  acquaintance  who  lives 
here  relates  o.  a  student  o.  history  who  once  came  to  this  site  to  ga.e  abou, 

50 


saying  that  an  Indian  of  some  note  formerly  pitclied  his  lodge  upon  the  hillock, 
but  later  removed  to  ye  town  of  Berwick,  &  also  that  in  af't':r  time  one  Gillespie 
dwelt  here — However  that  may  be  I  can  scarce  say,  but  truly  will  intorm  you 
that  on  this  knoll  &  but  a  little  distance  before  &  a  trifle  only  West  of  ye 
house,  our  friend  now  living  here  did  in  recent  years  exhume  an  antient  iron 
vessel  with  its  cover,  styled  a  Dutch  oven,  &  which  was  used  to  bake  ye  bread 
in  b)'  suspending  it  on  the  fireplace  crane.  While  over  the  way  yonder  our 
other  friend  some  while  ago,  adventured  upon  a  heap  of  rocks,  the  uppermost 
ones  being  near  even  with  the  surface  of  ye  soil,  while  the  others  were  below 
it,  &  all  seemingly  blackened  by  tire  once.  Indian  work  think  you  not  so  ? 
as  many  shells  left  by  them  were  once  observed  at  the  hillock  above. 

And  now  may  we  descend  to  the  near  by  bridge,  incline  against  ye  rail 
and  gaze  off  upon  the  stream  for  the  nonce  &  also  to  the  West  Shore  above 
for  a  short  way  ?  Yonder  by  the  highway  and  extending  above  it.  was  the 
farm  of  neighbor  John  Wells,  that  was  apportioned  from  the  ancient  family 
manor.  Here  our  friend  caused  to  be  reared  a  roomy  barn,  himself  and  family 
occupying  one  end  of  it  for  a  series  of  years.  But  had  he  not  purchased  a 
gathering  of  fine  topping  bricks  intending  to  rear  a  substantial  dwelling  in 
some  fortunate  year  ?  And  indeed  he  could  have  builded  a  small  house  directly. 
For  at  ye  later  time  of  the  great  Portland  conflagration  was  he  not  proffered  a 
handsome  sum  for  his  bricks,  but  refused  to  part  with  them,  his  ambition  be- 
ing to  construct  none  other  than  a  goodly  house.''  A  worthy  ambition  indeed, 

51 


for  if  forsooth  Col.  Byrd  once  dreamed  to  erect  Westover  the  imposing  man- 
sion on  the  James,  in  the  Old  Dominion,  what  wonder  if  one  of  our  own 
people  should  wish  to  rear  a  comely  house,  upon  the  bluff  of  the  Mousum. 
Now  I  will  inform  you  that  neighbor  Wells  was  a  mariner,  passing  a  part  of 
his  time  only  at  his  homestead,  &  you  must  know  also  friend  that  in  former 
days  the  Ohio  river  was  a  route  of  travel  to  and  from  the  South  and  New 
England,  &  that  it  once  so  happened  that  our  friend  was  descending  that 
stream  upon  a  flotilla  of  barges  when  one  of  them  chanced  to  touch  the 
ground  upon  a  sand  bar,  and  remained  there  until  the  flow  of  the  stream  had 
washed  all  of  ye  sand  away  beneath  the  bow  and  stern  of  the  barge,  when  its 
back  was  broken.  This  was  then  not  an  uncommon  occurrence  upon  that 
river. 

Again,  once  when  sojourning  at  home  our  friend  purchased  a  considera- 
ble fishing  boat  in  ye  nearby  town  to  the  Westward,  and  it  so  chanced  that 
when  a  propitious  day  arrived,  two  residents  of  the  village  above  on  the  river, 
one  of  whom  had  been  a  man  o'  wars  man,  obtained  the  loan  of  the  craft  for 
a  fishing  venture  off  shore  &  the  whilst  they  were  out  a  severe  blow  came  on, 
when  the  boat  was  overturned,  but  ye  rock  ballast  falling  out,  and  the  craft 
floating  keel  uppermost,  the  two  voyagers  clambered  upon  it,  and  luckily 
drifted  ashore  with  the  boat  undamaged.  But  nevertheless  ye  owner  caused 
it  to  be  drawn  upon  the  West  bank  directly  above  the  steep  bluff  that  is  at 
the  bend  of  the  river  where  is  the  island,   &  there  it  ever  after  remained, 

52 


y- 


y 

o 


bleached  by  all  ye  winds  &  weathers,  and  upon  its  stern  could  be  read  by  the 
passer-by  in  leaden  letters  its  name— the  "Gem  of  Wells." 

And  then  besides,  our  friend  once  possessed  what  may  have  been  the 
most  considerable  fishing  vessel  upon  the  river,  a  ten  ton  craft,  with  deck,  a 
cabin  and  schooner  masts  &  sails  &  which  was  styled  the  "Hornet."  It  was 
often  moored  below  the  bridge,  and  in  it  fishing  &  sailing  parties  were  wont 
to  venture  out  to  sea— and  with  it  voyages  were  made  to  Boston  &  the  East- 
ward, &  so  clever  a  sailer  was  she  that  her  later  purchasers  preferred  to  race 
rather  than  fish  with  the  craft. 

Now  above  the  homestead  last  described  you  will  observe  the  marsh  and 
pleasant  sloping  farm  field  with  clustered  bldgs.  upon  its  highest  part  of  the 
bro.  Nathan  Wells,  and  which  is  yet  in  possession  of  ye  family,  and  that  once 
formed  a  portion  of  the  great  home  tract  of  above   loo  acres  of  pasture  and 
tillage  land,  and  loo  acres  of  forest.     In  that  time  the  creatures  of  the  wood 
of  one  description  or  another  were  frequently  discovered  and  deer  were  not 
seldom  seen  by  dwellers  of  the  farms  in  passing  to  &  from  the  village  above. 
It  so  chanced  that  on  an  occasion  when   bro.  Nathan  Wells  was  returning 
homewards  &  had  reached  the  farther  side  ot  the  Fernald  brook  up  yonder, 
•he  espied  a  deer,  the  flintlock  was  cautiously  raised  to  the  face,  then  occurred 
the  flash  in  the  pan  and  the  quick  report,    and  two  deer,    the  one    having 
unobserved  by  the  husbandman  sauntered  near  the  other  fell  by  the  same  bul- 
let.    But  what  wonder  when  indeed  in  these  recent  years  the  sprightly  buck 

53 


and  gentle  doe  have  stared  at  the  home  folk  of  this  farm  from  the  knoll-side, 
near  ye  dwelling. 

Observe  yon  green  hillock  in  the  open  field  and  near  the  marsh.  It 
commands  a  most  interesting  view  of  the  broad  watery  way  of  the  river, 
standing  so  bravely  Eastward  with  its  myriad  ripples.  Also  of  the  marshes 
and  green  banks  and  woods  of  the  Northern  Shore.  Upon  the  hillock  stood 
the  early  log  cabin  home  of  William  Wells  an  early  comer  here,  but  the 
cabin  was  burned  by  the  savages,  and  he  removed  to  his  later  site  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  present  road  below  the  mansion  of  Esquire  Parsons.  This  experi- 
ence could  scarcely  have  been  unheard  of  by  him  befon  ,  as  a  forebear  of  one 
Patty  Wells,  when  a  mere  infant,  was  with  her  maternal  parent  concealed  by 
the  father  in  a  potato  cellar,  when  the  French  and  savages  fell  upon  ye  town 
of  York  in  the  far  away  King  William's  war. 

Friend,  it  was  Wm.  Wells  who  cleared  the  land,  which  we  now  behold 
by  felling  the  trees  and  allowmg  them  to  remain  upon  the  ground  until  mid- 
summer, when  they  were  burned,  or  else  they  were  drawn  together  out  of  the 
way,  by  the  aid  of  oxen  and  chains. 

In  the  creek,  which  winds  from  the  river  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  field, 

the  succeeding  owner  of  the  premises  was  accustomed  to  moor  a  fishing  boat 

in  which  he  would  venture  to  sea — return  with  a  fare  of  fish,  dispose  of  them 

*  at  the  village  above,  and  yet  accomplish  a  good  stint  of  work  upon  the  farm 

in  the  same  day,  which  was  a  worthy  example  of  early  N.  England  thrift. 

54 


And  I  will  assure  you  that  the  traveled  way  to  the  village  hereabouts  once 
made  a  detour  into  the  woods  at  some  distance  from  the  farm  house,  but  the 
dwellers  on  the  premises  by  their  own  labor  formed  a  shorter  route  leaving 
the  older  one  in  the  woods  unused. 

But  turn  you,  friend,  on  the  bridge,  and  gaze  yonder  where  the  gulls  with 
straight  spread  wings  cross  and  re-cro=:s  each  other's  paths  low  down,  and 
anon  disappear  behind  ye  sand  dunes,  for  there  is  the  river's  mouth.  Oh,  I 
like  not  that  chill  sea  beyond,  sparkling  tho.  it  be  !  Let  us  betake  ourselves 
homewards  by  the  upper  river,  and  end  this  day's  saunter,  resting  by  ye  oak 
shaded  banks  there,  where  on  the  river  shallows  those  sun  lit  wavelets  lap 
against  the  returning  tide. 


55 


DAY    THE    THIRD 


Ha  !  Ha!  Kindly  Associate  our  paths  cross  one  anothers  to-day!  Not 
a  few  ruddy  sundowns  have  faded  and  cloud  shadows  fled  o'er  this  wide  flow- 
ing tide-river  since  last  we  rested  and  communed  together  upon  this  self 
same  bridge,  but  to-day  we  will 'finish  our  stroll. 

Do  I  observe  you  to  reflect,  pensive  friend  ? 

Yes,  yes,  I  cannot  gainsay  it,  many  thoughts  of  former  days  take  shape 
as  one  lingers  here  upon  the  bridge.  Now  friend,  gaze  down  ye  stream  on 
the  East  Shore  there  where  the  long  dykes  are  situated,  which  friend  Went- 
worth  and  his  foreman  Fernald,  and  stalwart  helpers  besides,  reared  with 
honest  toil  in  many  a  day  gone  by,  and  now  showing  numerous  breaches,  Ah, 
little  reward  had  they  lor  their  painstaking  !  For  two  seasons  the  enclosed 
marsh  yielded  heavy  harvests  of  English  hay,  but  then,  even  within  a  few 
years  after  the  shutting  out  of  ye  tide,  the  fresh  marsh  grew  little  else  than 
crops  of  weeds,  which  with  the  cost  of  maintenance  destroyed  the  profit  of 
ye  undertaking. 

Now  over  yonder  where  the  pasture  of  our  neighbor  English  extends  to 
the  salt  grass,  and  near  the  river,  an  Indian  stone  hatchet  was  found  long  since, 
as  I  have  heard  ye  elderly  people  relate.     And  now  may  your  vision  dwell 


on  the  West  bank,  and  to  the  low  hill  by  the  way  that  leads  to  ye  shore,  where 
of  late  the  chimney  bricks  and  ancient,  fractured  iron  kettle  were  exhumed, 
for  upon  that  airy  knoll  sat  the  second  dwelling  of  one  Wm.  Wells  in 
Revolutionary  times  and  earlier.  Aye,  methinks  in  1759!  It  was  a  low 
eaved,  comfortable  dwelling,  and  yet  shelters  a  home  circle  joined  to  ye  man- 
sion yonder.  Its  builder  came  hither  from  the  Western  part  of  the  then  wide 
town  of  Wells,  and  from  his  door-yard  here  he  could  gaze  upon  ye  lands 
toward  yonder  sea,  and  East  to  ye  Great  hill,  and  with  his  sight  follow  the 
river  and  its  west  bordering  tracts  of  territory  near  a  mile  to  ye  North,  and 
proudly  exclaim,    "This  domain  is  all  my  own  possession," 

Now  with  the  father  dwelt  the  sons  Nathan  and  Joseph  who  also  hon- 
estly held  ye  plow,  and  followed  in  their  parent's  footsteps.  And  I  must 
acquaint  you  with  the  truth  that  the  days  had  their  frights  in  those  years  ;  for 
as  the  young  man  Nathan  was  on  a  time  returning  to  his  father's  dwelling 
from  a  visit  to  ye  village  above,  by  the  woody  way,  with  a  basket  of  provision 
upon  his  arm,  he  was  conscious  of  being  followed  by  a  wild  creature,  and 
hastened  to  reach  his  home  upon  the  hill.  Now  as  it  chanced  in  that  day,  a 
fence  encompassed  ye  dwelling:  this  the  young  man  hastily  clambered  o'er. 
and  scarce  had  he  reached  the  door-stone  beyond,  when  a  bear  raising  itself, 
placed  its  foremost  paws  upon  ye  rail  of  the  fence  that  he  had  bat  just 
surmounted. 

Ah,  and  evening  often  brought  its  dread !     For  upon  a  day  after  sun- 

59 


down,  it  was  observed  by  the  farmer  and  his  family  that  a  certain  kine  of  the 
herd  did  not  return  to  its  home  with  the  other  cattle,  and  it  was  heard  to 
lowe  in  an  unusual  distressful  manner  in  the  direction  of  ye  seashore.  On  the 
morrow  at  early  morning,  ye  people  venturing  forth  to  learn  the  cause  of  the 
disappearance  of  the  creature,  discovered  but  shreds  of  its  hide  and  other 
scant  portions  of  the  unfortunate  animal  that  had  been  destroyed  by  wander- 
ing wolves,  or  mayhap,  a  bear. 

Now  to  the  West  of  the  house  on  the  hill,  and  on  the  lower  land,  reposed 
the  commodious  farm-barn,  and  near  the  house  was  ye  stoned  up  well,  and 
hard  by  the  bank  of  the  river,  some  small  way  above  ye  stony  bridge  yonder, 
was  a  living  spring.  While  near  by,  on  the  same  elevated  bank  of  ye  old 
river,  and  in  his  own  field,  were  the  works  where  Wm.  Wells  manufactured 
salt  from  sea  water  in  ye  Revolutionary  period. 

Now  before  these  times,  in  the  day  of  the  great  Bashaba,  the  red  men 
dwelt  in  full  liberty  upon  these  lands,  as  the  husbandman  well  knew,  for  yon- 
der on  the  lower  side,  and  near  the  Stony  bridge,  and  but  a  little  removed 
from  the  marsh  land  ;  ther'^  where  ye  wild  brush  of  late  scantily  grew,  he  was 
wont  to  relate,  was  a  spot  of  ancient  indian  dwelling;  for  the  space  of  the  area 
of  a  house  there  was  thickly  set  with  the  whitened  shells  of  bivalves  but  a 
little  below  the  surface  of  ye  soil,  and  which  were  repeatedly  turned  up  by  ye 
plow  when  the  farmer  with  his  oxen  labored  upon  the  field. 

Ah,  pleasant  it  is  to  dwell  upon  the  memory  of  those  virgin  days  !     Now 

60 


in  later  years  when  a  follower  of  Wm.  Wells  and  his  son  chanced  to  be  fur- 
rowing ye  land  hard  by,  on  the  edge  of  the  field  that  borders  ye  old  river,  but 
a  scant  stroll  above  ye  old  time  salt  works,  on  the  upland  there,  but  a  bit 
only  above  tide  water,  they  fell  upon  three  several  spots  where  ye  indians  had 
encamped  long  since,  which  was  made  known  to  them  by  the  large  shells  of 
ye  bivalves  disclosed  by  the  plow,  and  much  larger  were  the}'  than  shells  ob- 
tained in  the  later  days  ;  and  stooping,  the  son  gleaned  an  arrow  head  from 
one  of  these  former  camping  places. 

And  direct  your  gaze  there  but  a  stone's  cast  below  the  bridge  on  which 
we  yet  linger,  to  the  field  bordering  the  river  and  the  great  house,  where  ye 
head  of  the  family  caused  the  sod  to  be  turned  up  and  graded  for  a  small 
pleasure-court  for  the  young  folks. 

Then  the  workmen  chanced  upon  a  spot,  which  they  at  first  resolved  was 
one  of  interment,  but  later  esteemed  it  to  be  the  location  of  an  Indian  en- 
campment, as  ashes  were  found,  and  a  species  of  mould,  which  they  judged 
to  be  the  remains  of  ye  bones  of  animals  obtained  in  hunting  ;  but  more  in- 
teresting was  ye  finding  of  several  perfect  heads  of  indian  arrows,  which  were 
recovered.  And  on  the  following  season  two  well  formed  spear  heads  of  ye 
aborigines  were  brought  to  light  by  the  workmen  in  spading  j'e  garden  near 
by  this  spot. 

But  listen  friend,  have  I  ever  discoursed  to  you  of  the  stranding  of  the 
Alexander  on  yon  beach  during  our  later  naval  war  with  England  ?     When 

6i 


our  Seamen's  shout  was  "Free  trade  and  sailors  rights."  You  must  know 
that  an  alarm  was  sprung  in  Arundel,  and  the  children  being  released  from 
school  beheld  two  large  vessels,  with  all  their  white  sails  spread,  passing 
along  ye  coast.  And  on  the  river  above  us,  the  more  able  of  the  people 
clambered  to  the  low  roots  ot  farm  buildings  to  obtain  a  better  view  of  the 
happening.  It  was  but  a  bit  West  ot  ye  Great  hill  where  the  vessel  touched. 
Now  'tis  said,  that  when  ye  Bulwark  was  in  pursuit  of  the  privateer, 
her  people  cast  overboard  a  bag  of  gold,  being  resolved  to  lose  it  rather  than 
that  the  enemy  should  come  by  the  treasure  ;  and  that  in  after  times,  the  bag 
of  money  was  brought  up  to  the  surface  of  ye  water  by  the  hook  and  line  of  a 
fisherman,  but  the  hold  brake,  and  the  gold  shimmered  thro,  the  green  water 
to  ye  bottom  again.  However  that  may  be,  when  the  vessel  cams  ashore  the 
church  bell  at  Kennebunk  was  set  ringing,  the  people  Hocked  to  the  scene, 
and  all  the  men  upnn  the  farms  went  down  to  the  shore,  some  armed  with 
guns  and  others  with  pitch-forks,  but  Patty  Wells  kept  her  own  house,  and 
simmered  those  delectabies  shaped  like  ye  letter  O  in  the  fry-pan,  and  made 
of  corn-meal,  which  was  ye  only  commodity  for  the  purpose  then  at  hand,  and 
sent  them  to  the  men  folks,  their  protectors,  by  the  children,  who  feared  to  go 
to  them  by  ye  way  of  Stony  bridge,  but  made  a  detour  and  waded  the  creek 
to  reach  their  friends  with  the  d'-lectables.  Now  you  must  know,  listener, 
that  Stony  bridge  was  at  first  begun  in  a  rough  way,  it  was  a  small  construc- 
tion   built    by    the    neigh':)ors  and    nearby  residents  for  their  own  use  and 

62 


convenience,  and  was  without  a  well  beaten  track  leading  to  it,  but  a  pair  of 
bars  and  way  down  ye  hill-side  field  were  the  means  of  reaching  it. 

Now  hard  by  on  the  seashore,  another  good  wife  dwelt  who  was  very 
much  alarmed  by  these  war-like  proceedings  that  I  have  described,  and  she 
hastened  from  her  farm  to  our  Patty,  and  importuned  her  that  she  would  flee 
with  her  to  the  village  above,  but  the  heroic  woman  replied,  "No,  I  was  upon 
this  ground  first  and  here  I  intend  to  remain  !" 

I  will  also  inform  you  that  cases  of  goods  and  pieces  of  merchandise,  the 
proceeds  of  prizes  captured,  doubtless,  were  thrown  overboard  in  the  chase 
and  drifted  ashore  nearby,  and  one  good  man,  who  gathered  up  a  parcel  con- 
taining silks,  was  accused  by  the  townspeople  of  theft.  Some  of  the  villagers 
went  near  to  take  a  sig;ht  of  the  privateer.  The  afternoon  was  beautiful,  the 
air  still,  the  sails  of  the  vessel  stranded  on  the  beaeh  were  all  spread,  but 
hanging  idly  from  their  spars.  Now  the  commander  of  the  craft,  one  Capt. 
Crowninshield,  and  his  hapless  crew,  yearning  for  a  shelter,  plodded  to  the 
dwelling  of  Wm.  Wells  on  the  hill,  where  they  were  hospitably  welcomed  by 
him  and  his  wife  Patty,  and  they  dwelt  there  for  a  time,  the  officers  being 
entertained  in  the  house,  while  the  men  were  lodged  in  the  barn,  that  I  have 
before  described  to  you. 

Gaze  to  tha  Westward  friend,  beyond  this  near  grove  of  trees  where  the 
good  folks  were  formerly  wont  to  resort  to  uproot  the  wild  sarsaparilla  to 
suspend  in  bunches  in  their  attics  ere  ye  winter  set  in,  a  scant  fourth  of  a  mile 

63 


farther  on  the  highwa}',  and  a  bit  beyond  the  first  small  creek.  For  there  it 
was  that  the  ancient  way,  that  on  a  former  excursion  I  acquainted  you  of  as 
passing  near  the  West  bank  of  the  river,  crossing  the  Fernald  stream  some 
short  way  below  the  present  bridge,  and  that  kept  on  through  ye  farms  be- 
low and  at  last  emerging  from  the  woods  and  crossing  this  roadway,  continued 
on  to  ihe  shallow  or  wading  place  of  ye  old  river  at  the  first  cove,  or  the 
"Pines"  as  tin-  vicinity  was  afterwards  wont  to  be  styled,  above  Stony  bridge. 
Ha,  ha,  how  oft  did  Sarah  Wells  when  a  girl  bridle  the  farm  horse,  and  draw- 
ing fast  the  saddle  girth,  and  lightly  mounting  ye  animal  amble  from  her 
home  where  yonder  country-seat  now  is  to  the  village  by  this  early  trail! 
But  more  of  the  ford  Far  back  in  ye  time  of  1760,  or  thereabout,  over  yon- 
der aiar  on  the  hilly  land  East  o!  the  river,  a  little  below  ye  hotel  named  from 
the  eigle  that  sits  on  ye  shattered  pinnacles,  where  you  will  now  see  a  de- 
pression in  the  hillock,  one  Mr.  Towne  reared  a  sightly  dwelling  as  housing 
for  himself.  In  course  of  time.  Yeoman  Spinney  became  possessed  of  the 
homestead,  and  nothing  daunted  removed  it  to  the  headland  beyond,  at  the 
shore  and  was  buffeted  by  all  the  winds  of  ocean.  After  him  came  one 
Gillespie,  a  Scotch  book  agent,  and  dwelt  in  ye  house  until  driven  by  the  sea 
to  take  refuge  in  the  village  at  the  head  of  tide.  Ere  many  years  were 
passed  another  owner  assumed  control  of  it,  and  Joseph  Wells  over  yonder, 
summoning  the  help  of  the  Country-side,  caused  the  house  to  begin  its  long 
journey  in  the  winter  season  of  1823  to  the  Westward,  by  the  grass  land  then 

64 


existing,  far  beyond  to  the  old  river  ford,  at  the  'Pines''  that  I  have  men- 
tioned, over  which  it  was  gotten  upon  skids,  and  continuing  its  progress  along 
back  of  ye  marsh  and  the  West  side  of  the  hill,  and  over  what  would  now  be 
the  barn-yard  of  the  Country-seat,  it  reached  its  present  position,  with  upper 
windows  covered  by  boards,  and  its  very  large  2nd. story  beams  unwrenched. 
And  now  it  chanced  that  one  who  since  grew  aged  and  passed  to  his  rest 
was  an  infant  then,  and  as  the  ark  of  family  refuge  slowly  approached,  he  was 
held  aloft  in  his  mother's  arms  in  the  doorway  of  Wm.  Wells's  dwelling  on 
the  hill,  and  bidden  to  look.  "Look  child,  our  new  found  home  is 
approaching. !'' 

And  now  friend  gaze  down  the  stream  a  little,  a  good  part  of  the  way  to 
where  ye  old  river  debouches  into  ye  new  and  where  the  high  land  joins  the 
marsh,  and  on  which  spot  small  trees  and  bushes  are  growing,  for  there,  at 
the  steep  bank  was  an  ancient  burial  plot,  where  Wm.  Wells  the  pioneer  and 
other  early  members  of  his  family  were  laid  to  rest. 

Little  think  you,  follower,  that  these  waters  once  reflected  the  masts  of 
commerce.  I  will  acquaint  you  a  bit  that  way.  Now  some  60  years  since, 
over  yonder  bordering  there  on  the  inside  shore  of  the  cove,  a  trifle  Easterly 
of  ye  neck  of  Gillespie's  point,  even  out  where  sand  now  lies,  but  reaching  to 
ye  neck,  stood  an  extensive  pitch-pine  growth  of  goodly  trees,  the  heart  of 
each  being  largely  of  pure  pitch,  and  belonging  to  ye  Benjamin  Wentworth 
family.     And  within   them,  but  hard  on  the  shore,  a  colony  of  tufted  night 

65 


herons  were  wont  annually  to  construct  their  nests  of  sticks. 

These  woods  were  cut  away,  and  the  wood  sent  out  of  the  river  in  vessels 
to  ye  Capital  of  the  former  Bay  Colony.  There  was  the  schooner  Volant, 
built  in  the  year  1851  of  some  54  tons  burthen,  belonging  in  Wells,  and  set 
up  after  fore  and  aft  fashion,  that  sailed  into  the  Mousam  river  and  up  it  by 
the  channel  on  the  Western  side  of  ye  Thatch  island,  and  carried  wood  hence 
which  had  been  brought  to  near  the  clay-hill  bridge.  The  vessel  could  stow 
some  40  cords  of  wood,  and  she  lay  at  the  Eastern  Shore,  a  trifle  below  the 
bridge  only,  with  her  bow  down  the  stream,  without  any  wharf,  but  moored 
off  the  bank,  and  the  wood  was  taken  on  baard  in  wheel-barrows,  over  a  plank 
from  the  shore  to  the  rail.  And  but  a  little  above  a  day's  time  was  required 
to  lade  the  vessel,  which  done,  she  sailed  out  again,  being  piloted  by  Masters 
Drown  and  Wells,  and  some  three  visits  she  made  here  under  charter  of  one 
Oliver  M.  Wentworth.  who  as  a  farmer's  youth  had  previously  journeyed  to 
Boston,  seeking  for  a  larger  business. 

And  much  other  wood  was  brought  to  the  rear  of  Great  Hill  below  us, 
where  some  of  it,  by  chance,  was  burned,  and  the  Schooner  Brilliant  of  the 
same  style  as  the  one  that  I  have  described  to  you,  sailed  into  the  river,  and 
lying  in  the  canal  at  the  rear  of  the  hill  received  her  cargo. 

But  a  finer  craft  that  ventured  into  the  river  at  that  day  was  the  topsail 
schooner  Wave,  also  built  in  185  i,  and  of  near  100  tons  burthen,  and  which 
hailed  from  Kennebunk  river.     She  was  moored  off  the  bank,  at  the  rear  ot 

66 


Great  Hill,  in  the  deep  water,  there  in  the  canal,  near  where  it  joins  the  main 
river,  and  was  secured  by  lines  to  posts  set  in  the  marsh.  Her  sails  were  a 
square  topsail,  which  she  used,  a  mainsail,  foresail  and  two  jibs.  On  the  for- 
ward deck  was  a  galley,  and  on  the  aft  deck  a  trunk  or  companionway,  which 
lighted  the  cabin  below,  where  the  master,  one  Capt.  Wm.  Bragdon,  his 
officer,  and  three  or  four  seamen  waged  at  some  $i8.  per  month  each,  were 
bunked.  At  this  berth,  like  the  one  above,  the  wood  was  transported  on 
board  over  a  plank  gangway  from  the  shore.  The  vessel  was  a  clever  sailer, 
and  when  laden  with  quite  75  cords  of  ye  commodity,  she  proceeded  to  sea 
in  rough  weather.  This  incident  of  the  stay  of  the  goodly  vessel  here  I  will 
relate  to  you.  She  at  first  lay  in  a  channel  on  the  Western  side  of  the  main 
river,  but  fortunately  was  warped  over  to  the  rear  of  Great  hill  the  day  before 
a  severe  Norther  came  on,  which  clogged  ye  channel  that  she  had  lain  in,  and 
as  there  was  but  little  to  hold  her,  the  vessel  broke  adrift,  and  was  near  being 
blown  out  of  ye  river,  dragging  down  to  the  point  of  the  two  streams,  where 
slightly  grounding  she  caught,  and  was  held,  and  later  was  drawn  back  to 
her  former  position. 

Now  another  woodland  had  been  cleared  but  a  little  South  of  ye  Fernald 
farm,  and  the  wood  taken  to  ye  seashore  on  the  Western  side  of  the  river, 
when  the  schooner  Equity  sailed  in,  and  lay  in  th°  channel  from  which  ye 
Wave  was  afterward  fortunately  warped.  The  vessel  was  moored  to  piles,  a 
stage  was  built,  and  the  wood  taken  on  board  in  wheelbarrows,  the  vessel  lying 

aground  at  low  water. 

67 


Now  in  the  later  years,  some  effort  was  made  to  revive  the  commerce  of 
ye  stream,  when  Charles  Parsons.  Esq.,  who  dwelt  in  his  country  seat  on  the 
far  point  yonder,  caused  a  strong  pile  wharf  to  be  planted  on  ye  West  shore 
of  the  stream  near  the  sea,  with  a  small  house  upon  it,  and  a  floating  stage 
alongside.  When,  :ome  25  years  since,  the  schooner  Sarah  of  Wells,  of 
near  51  tons  burthen,  was  sailed  in,  and  made  fast  to  the  wharf.  Ah,  and  an 
odd  craft  she  was,  built  in  the  year  1833,  and  having  formerly  been  employed 
in  freighting  oak  timber  from  Wells  to  Boston!  She  was  of  shoal  draft,  with 
cabin  below  decks,  and  possessed  neither  fore  nor  main  topmast,  but  was 
seaworthy,  and  sailed  hence  with  some  40  cords  of  wood,  but  later,  alas,  was 
lost  on  ye  rocky  York  coast. 

But  Oh  friend,  I  bemoan  myself  of  that  unruly,  restless  sea,  erst  while 
hiding  ye  useful  wharf  in  the  dry  sands  of  the  shore,  changing  ye  river  chan- 
nels, swirling  its  tides  this  way  and  over  yonder  until,  for  instruction,  but  in 
vain  for  solace,  we  may  again  draw  forth  from  the  fold  of  our  cloak  that  book 
"in  vellum  bound,"  and  scan  ye  retrain  of  the  poet.  Even  how  that  the 
*"Ocean  old,  centuries  old,  strong  as  youth  and  as  uncontrolled''  has  no  ear 
for  our  complaints,  and  anon  disports  itself  so  cruelly! 

And  I  must  make  known  to  you  as  well,  that  at  the  time  of  the  opening 
of  the  new  river  channel,  one  Capt.  Gray  oi  the  village  above,  and  Mr.  Joseph 
Wells  of  ye  old  farm  here,  being  gents  abreast  of  ye  times,  purchased  of  Capt- 

*H.  W.  Longfellow 

68 


Oaks  of  Arundel  over  yonder,  a  shallow  draft  schooner  with  fore  and  aft  sails, 
styled  the  Echo,  with  the  intention  of  bringing  into  the  river  cotton  for  the 
mill  at  Kennebunk,  and  goods  for  the  stores  there;  freighting  them  in  the 
vessel  up  the  stream  to  the  head  of  navigation.  Now  the  clay  hill  bridge 
upon  which  we  rest,  had  been  designed  for  a  draw-bridge,  the  timbers  being 
cut  tor  such  a  structure,  and  they  were  ready  to  be  used  for  that  purpose,  if 
occasion  required.  But  the  vessel  did  not  proceed  to  the  upper  stream,  altho. 
she  visited  the  lower  river  on, two  or  three  voyages. 

And  surely  my  attentive  listener  you  have  ne'er  been  acquainted  of  ye 
hopeful  enterprise  of  the  townspeople  in  seeking  a  new  river  outlet  in  the 
year  1846,  have  you?     Shall  I  relate  it  ? 

Most  surely  so,  Sir,  make  no  delay,  for  river-lore  is  vi^elcome  chat  to  me. 
Now  I  will  assure  thee  that  the  Alousam  River  Navigation  Act — comprising 
10  incorporators  was  approved  July  20,  1846  and  an  Act  of  March  8,  1826, 
authorizing  a  canal  on  the  Mousam  river  was  repealed  Ye  Company  was 
to  have  the  privilege  of  cutting  off  bends,  building  dams,  embankments, 
wharves,  piers,  monuments,  &  placing  buoys.  It  could  also  levy  a  toll  on 
each  vessel  ol  10  tons  and  upwards,  &  demand  reasonable  wharfage  rates, 
and  have  exclusive  right  of  steam  navigation  on  ye  stream  for  30  years.  Ye 
first  Capital  stock  was  5^2,500 — but  this  could  be  increased  to  ^25,000  if 
deemed  expedient.  The  shares  were  ^25  each — without  assessment  and  ye 
work  was  to  be  completed  In  5  years  or  else  ye  privilege  became  void.  Well, 

69 


we  must  saunter  to  the  sightly  land  below  the  bridge  yonder,  there  on  the 
West  shore  where  the  view  is  wide  spread     Now  you  must  know  that  the  river 
course  when  modified  before  the  year  1800,  swam    to  the  Eastward,  by  the 
channel  styled  the  "Canal"  at  the  rear  of  Great  hill,  and  presently  bending  S. 
Easterly  it  followed  on  either  side  of  a  ledge  coveredchiefly  with  small  rocks, 
but   also  with  a   few  large  ones  upon  it,  and  remains  of  which  are  yet  to  be 
discerned,  known  as  Ram  island,  the  larger  channel  of  the  stream  being  upon 
the  side  of  the  main  land,  while'  the  other  was  but  a  shallow  current.      The 
river  then  debouched   into  the  cove,  at  ye  spot  known  as  Gillespie's  point 
neck,  and  presently  was  divided  by  a  ridge  of  rocks,   the  greater  channel  be- 
ing upon  the  side  of  the  point,  while  upon  the  cove  side  was  a  rivulet  course. 
And  but  a  short  way  below  were  the  falls  so  termed,  they  being  but  a  rocky 
shoal  where   the  water  ran  off  from  the  ledge  and  this  was  a  ripple  at  low 
water,     It  was  even  then  quite  a  little  distance  below  to  the  outlet  of  the 
river,  where  flowing  East  of  George's  rock  and  West  ol  a  smill  ledge  nearby, 
it  entered  the  sea.      When  ye  canal  debouched  thus  the  cove  existed  as  now, 
but  it  has  been  much  enlarged  since  that  time,  the  roots  of  former  trees  now 
being  discernible  upon  it.     Then  it  was  a  more  desirable  harbor  than  now, 
and  better  for  boats  to  lie  in,   but  it  was  laid  bare  as  at  present  b}-  the  ebbing 
of  the  tide,   excepting  in  the  river  channel.     There  was  not,   however,  the 
swift  current  in  the  river  at  other  times  as  now.  and  the  stream  was  better 
then  than  at  present  for  navigation,  and  there  was  then  much  boating  on  its 

waters. 

70 


To  reach  Gillespie's  point  one  then  must  needs  cross  the  river.  The  land 
on  ye  ocean  side  of  the  canal  between  Great  hill  and  the  point,  of  which  there 
was  considerable,  a  wide  space  even,  sufficient  tor  quite  a  farm,  was  a  corn 
field,  and  I  assure  you  friend,  persons  are  yet  with  us,  even  neighbor  Hub- 
bard yonder,  who  have  labored  for  days  upon  it.  At  that  period  a  person 
could  drive  a  horse  nearly  all  the  way  on  green  grass  ground  from  Great 
hill  to  Gillespie's  point,  where  the  sod  extended  out  nearly  to  the  Eagle  rock 
but  a  very  short  distance  only  intervening  between  them. 

Upon  the  outer  or  ocean  end  of  the  point  80  years  since,  was  to  be  seen 
the  abandoned  cellar  of  the  Gillespie  homestead,  the  headland  having  since 
wasted  much  upon  the  seaward  end  as  well  as  on  the  cove  and  ocean  sides, 
and  the  course  of  the  former  canal  would  now  lead  it  into  ye  sea  waves. 

The  funds  for  creating  ye  new  river  were  obtained  by  subscription  from 
the  persons  who  could  purchase  the  stock,  and  many  farmers  and  other  per- 
sons gave  their  labor,  for  there  was  enthusiasm  for  the  work.  Stock  certifi- 
cates were  issued  picturing  the  hoped  for  future  navigation  of  the  river  and 
showmg  the  Company  organized,  and  the  signature  of  William  Lord,  Presi- 
dent, and  William  B.  Sewall,  Secretary.  Behold  one,  friend!  In  cutting 
for  the  new  channel  a  straight  course  was  made  in  the  marsh  on  the  Western 
side  of  the  stream,  and  now  visible,  from  below  the  bridge  upon  which  we 
lately  rested,  and  abreast  Thatch  island  a  short  way  above  the  present  outlet 
of  the  old  river,  where  a  creek  then  passed  through  that  way  and  jetties  or  cob 

71 


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^ 


works  were  made,  since  wrongly  termed  "Ye  West  India  Wharf"  to  stop  it 
the  outer  one  being  now  visible.  The  inner  one  was  to  be  seen  30  or 
more  years  since. 

The  cut  then  continued  to  the  sea  wall  and  back  side  of  ye  beach. 
This  channel  filled  up  at  the  back  end  after  the  river  formed  an  outlet  for 
itself,  and  the  channel  above  has  now  become  mostly  absorbed  by  the  river 
and  filled  up,  but  a  few  years  since  a  boat  could  pass  through  it  at  high  water 
when  an  island  was  formed. 

Citizen  George  Wise  was  given  the  contract  for  $200.  of  blocking  up 
the  course  of  ye  canal  above  Ram  island  near  the  cove,  with  some  piling,  but 
mostly  rocks  from  the  neighborhood,  of  which  there  were  many,  and  did  the 
feat  expeditiously,  profitably  and  well.  The  sand  from  the  cove  soon  washed 
in,  and  completed  the  barrier.  The  location  of  this  work,  some  rocks  of 
which  can  now  be  seen  on  the  shore,  was  for  many  years  afterwards  styled 
"The  Dam"  by  the  people  of  the  vicinity.  A  dam  or  barrier  of  ballast  or 
beach  rocks  was  also  carried  part  of  the  way  across  the  river  where  the 
channel  was  narrow  at  the  lower,  rear  side  of  Great  Hill,  where  the  waste 
of  the  shore  has  since  been  great  on  the  East  side,  and  where  the  tide  now 
covers  stumps  and  roots  of  trees  not  a  few  and  hard  earth  in  process  of  de- 
molition. While  at  the  joining  of  the  canal  and  river  at  the  rear  of  the  hill 
was  an  island  of  moderate  dimensions  where  is  now  a  minute  one.  And  at 
the  inlet  of  the  old  river  was  another  considerable  island  created  by  the  cut, 

72 


and  styled  the  "Joseph  Wells'  thatch  bed,"  which  has  since  greatly  wasted. 

Upon  the  morning  that  the  new  channel  was  to  be  carried  through  ye 
sea  wall,  every  inhabitant  journeyed  thither,  who  could  do  so,  and  nearly 
every  male  pilgrim  carried  a  shovel.  Many  persons  who  excavated  at  the 
time  of  making  ye  final  cut  for  the  new  channel  at  Great  Hill,  hoped  for,  and 
thought  it  quite  possible,  that  the  treasure  of  Capt.  Kidd  would  be  found. 

All  preparations  being  in  readiness,  and  many  persons  present,  the 
shovellers  commenced  their  work  in  the  morning  at  low  tide,  and  opened  the 
remainder  of  the  channel.  The  ditch  was  not  wide,  and  a  plank  spanned  it 
over  which  boys  accompanied  by  their  parents  sauntered.  One  merchant  of 
ye  town  who  was  present,  in  a  spirit  of  triumph  bestrode  the  narrow  ditch, 
ore  sole  being  upon  one  side  and  the  other  on  the  opposite  shore.  This 
position  he  maintained  as  long  as  it  continued  to  be  safe,  for  the  barriers 
erected  to  direct  the  waters  out  of  the  new  cut  fulfilling  their  purpose,  the 
pent  up  river  made  short  work  of  the  sand  of  ye  sea  wall,  and  the  channel 
was  soon  too  wide  to  cross  in  safety.  But  in  the  interval,  one  of  ye  chief  in- 
habitants, being  much  interested  and  elated,  proceeded  outside  in  his  boat, 
with  the  intent  of  coming  into  the  new  river  when  the  current  had  formed  it; 
being  the  first  to  do  so,  and  looking  for  a  great  harbor.  But  directly  one  of 
the  near  by  seafaring  folk  with  a,  companion,  procured  a  scow  in  the  vicinity 
and  pushing  out,  immediately  rowed  about  and  returning  gained  the  honor  of 


being  the  tirst  to  enter  the  new  river. 


73 


All  ot  the  work  of  this  enterprise  was  performed  by  hand  labor,  and  its 
cost  was  nearly  ^5000,  but  men  of  sober  thought  averred  that  could  the  funds 
have  been  expended  in  blasting  ye  ledge  at  the  "ripples"  in  the  old  canal,  a 
better  river  mouth  and  harbor  would  have  ensued. 

But  espy,  there  on  ye  ancient  or  first  river,  at  the  full  tide,  and  near  the 
present  new  river  outlet,  is  a  channel  extending  nearly  to  ye  sea  wall,  this  as 
late  as  the  year  1853  was  a  navigable  passage  setting  seaward,  and  joining 
with  ye  new  outlet,  and  each  existing  at  the  same  time.  On  its  Western  bank 
stood  for  a  spell  of  years  two  considerable  fish  houses,  and  boats  of  some 
bigness  oft  came  in,  and  lay  at  them.  This  channel  was  supposed  to  be  a 
bend  of  ye  ancient  river  before  it  reached  the  later  canal,  but  some  50  years 
gone  by  a  severe  storm,  the  same  that  set  adrift  the  Schooner  Wave,  rao-ed  on 
the  coast,  and  this  outlet  was  obstructed  at  its  mouth  by  great  seas  washing 
the  sand  in.  Thereupon  ye  ancient  river  broke  through  the.  narrow  neck  of 
land  separating  it  from  the  new  river,  and  flowed  directly  into  the  stream  as 
it  now  does. 

Well  friend,  we  will  descend  the  hill  to  cross  ye  Stony  bridge !  Ah,  the 
near  shore  here  below  the  bridge  has  gained  much  in  these  later  years,  and 
on  ye  upper  side  the  larger  island  in  ye  channel  is  of  late  formation,  but  the 
smaller  one  near  by  has  long  existed  here  ! 

But  pause,  we  have  not  yet  viewed  ye  Great  hill  beyond  the  river,  where 
the  outlook  is  surprisingly  wide  spread  over  much  blue  water,  coves,  thm 

74 


lines  of  promontories  and  other  shores  !  Ye  considerable  eminence  is  a  dr}', 
densely  packed  formation  of  gravel,  small  rocks  packed  every  which  way,  and 
an  occasional  bowlder.  In  former  years  ye  hill  was  resorted  to  in  the  summer 
season  by  a  large  colony  of  bank  swallows,  its  brow  being  perforated  by  their 
burrows,  which  gave  an  opportunity  for  the  frosts  of  winter  to  effect  much  de- 
struction there,  but  now  that  the  little  birds  have  ceased  to  frequent  the  hill, 
ye  sod  and  gravel  have  wasted  less  rapidly.  Espy  now  the  great  bowlder 
that  lies  a  bit  beyond  the  hill  near  its  foot  !  Our  kindly  informant  yonder  re- 
calls the  day  when  it  fell  from  ye  bank.  And  gaze  beyond  where  the  two 
bowlders  lie,  the  one  in  ye  water  at  low  tide,  and  some  60  paces  outside  and 
Easterly  from  the  hill.  Friend,  they  were  once  imbedded  in  its  side,  and 
truly  did  ye  yeoman  Oliver  Drown  long  since  behold  one  of  them  dislodge  and 
tumble  to  ye  strand  below,  for  the  hill  extended  far  out  in  that  time,  and  well 
did  farmer  Joseph  Wells,  who  once  possessed  that  broad  hill-side  field,  relate 
that  it  had  wasted  a  fourth  of  its  proportion  during  his  lifetime  !  Now  it 
once  chanced  that  William  Lord.  Esq.,  of  the  village  above,  purchased  ye  hill 
in  part  that  he  might  acquire  the  right  of  removing  ballast  rocks  for  new  ves- 
sels bu'lt  upon  the  Kennebunk  river  to  the  Eastward,  the  right  of  so  doing 
without  ownership  of  the  land  being  questioned.  From  the  rocky  point  or 
strand  West  of  the  river  mouth  many  tons  of  ballast  rocks  were  formerly 
taken  and  carted  to  ye  other  river  for  the  new  ships,  by  Mr.  Wells  of  the 
farm  near  by. 

75 


And,  observe,  a  better  part  of  the  way  down  ye  hill  at  the  rear,  where 
the  cart  track  is  deeply  sunk  in  the  turf  and  soil,  tor  there  was  ye  King's  way 
or  ''Military  Road''  that  passed  over  yonder  in  days  gone  by.  And  towards 
the  East  end  of  the  hill,  on  the  lower  side  of  the  road,  and  not  above  a  rod 
from  it,  you  would  discover  a  considerable  mound  with  a  rock  or  two  pro- 
jecting from  it,  and  that  has  long  existed  there,  and  would  appear  to  cover 
ye  ruins  of  a  chimney,  and  at  the  rear  of  it  nearer  the  canal  is  yet  another 
mound.  There  stood  ye  ancient  house,  facing  the  South,  that  long  existed 
at  the  back  side  of  the  hill,  with  its  out  buildings. 

Indeed,  young  folks  in  former  days  were  shown  the  depression  oi  its  for- 
saken cellar,  and  farmer  Wells  oft  recalled  the  appearance  oi  the  house  itself, 
and  the  foreign  immigrant  who  then  dwelt  in  it,  and  of  his  boat  also,  and  the 
occasion  when  this  early  inhabitant  was  pursuing  his  fishing  upon  the  nearby 
sea,  when  being  overtaken  by  a  severe  tempest  and  fearing  destruction,  he 
lifted  up  his  prayers  for  delivery  from  it,  and  was  safely  brought  to  his  home 
once  again. 

In  former  years  ye  credulous  ones  resorted  to  the  hill,  and  with  spade 
and  mattock  turned  over  the  sods  and  gravel  in  que -t  of  ye  buried  treasure  of 
one  Capt.  Kidd,  who  "Spied  three  ships  of  Spain,  and  fired  on  them  amain 
as  he  sailed."  And  indeed  it  would  appear  that  unwittingly  their  efforts  were 
not  wholl)-  ill  directed,  for  scarce  six  years  since,  when  one  of  the  nearby 
residents  was  at  ye  hill,  upon  the  cove  or  Eastern  side,  he  beheld  what  he 

76 


judged  to  be  a  button  jutting  out  of  ye  gravel  some  five    feet  below  the  sur 
face  of  the  grassland,  and  upon   pluckiner   ye  metal  from   the  bank  he  dis- 
covered it  to  be  a  very  thin  French  copper  coin  of  some   value,  a  two  sou 
piece  or  penny,  the  equal  or  the  tenth  of  a  franc,  and  then,   by  the   figures, 
stamped  upon  its  face,  being  nearly  200  years  minted. 

And  friend,  among  ye  rocks  there  at  the  river's  mouth,  many  years  now 
past,  one  of  ye  town's  people  recovered  a  primitive,  rude  smoking  pipe 
fashioned  from  a  soft  variety  of  stone,  and  which  he  interpreted  to  be  of 
Indian  fashioning. 

Ah,  I  am  led  to  reHect  as  we  linger  a  brief  moment  on  ye  Stony  bridge 
how  ye  flocks  of  the  sea  sometimes  were  as  ye  Hebrew  people  of  old  "en- 
tangled in  the  land,''  for  did  not  a  great  shoal  of  herring  appear  in  this  old 
river  some  years  now  gone  by,  coming  in  with  the  tide  ?  But  this  they  would 
scarce  have  done  had  they  not  been  pursued  by  larger  fish;  and  altho.  the 
egress  was  free  they  were  packed  in,  and  could  not  find  their  way  out  again, 
because  they  were  fettered  by  the  sea  weed,  and  embedded  in  the  shallow 
pools  by  the  receding  tide.  They  were  stranded  in  great  quantities  above 
and  below  this  rocky  bridge.  Some  of  ye  fish  were  large,  others  small, 
and  they  lay  two  feet  or  more  deep  in  the  creeks,  many  'tis  said  doubtless 
dying  before  the  water  left  them  by  overcrowding.  A  nearby  inhabitant  sold 
ye  share  of  finny  unfortunates  resting  upon  his  strand  for  a  pretty  sum  of 
silver  to  the  up  country  folk,  to  be  removed  in  ox-cart  loads  for  the  fields. 

n 


It  came  about  that  some  35  years  since,  some  observing  persons  know- 
ing of  large  bass  fish  frequenting  the  waters  near  the  river's  mouth,  caused 
a  goodly  seine,  knitted  and  loaned  by  Hartley  Lord  and  Bros,  of  Boston,  to 
be  set  a  trifle  West  of  the  mouth  of  the  New  river  and  without  its 
current,  where  the  floor  of  the  strand  was  smooth;  and  drawn  daily  dur- 
ing the  tishing  season,  and  many  fine  bass  fish  of  goodly  dimensions  were 
taken. 

It  has  so  chanced  on  occasion,  that  the  silvery  pollock  have  pursued  the 
small  fry  into  ye  surf  at  the  river's  mouth,  even  to  the  shore,  and  have 
themselves  become  stranded  on  5'e  beach  in  numbers  so  great  that  the 
farmers  removed  them  in  cart  loads  to  fertilize  the  land. 

Ye  great  sturgeon  fish  were  once  frequently  seen  in  the  river,  and  a  few 
seals  were  known  to  disport  themselves  above  ye  clay  hill  bridge  where  of 
late  we  mused  for  so  long  a  time. 

Now  we  will  follow  ye  ancient  way  back  of  the  Sea  wall.  But  what  may 
be  the  low  mound  of  brick  or  stone  and  slight  depression  by  its  side  near  by 
in  the  pasture  borderingthe  old  river  here,  and  which  is  but  little  raised  above 
the  full  tide,  and  upon  which  grass  land  in  later  years  the  workers  upon  the 
marsh  were  wont  to  spread  their  salt  hay  to  dry? 

Then  you  have  never  known  of  the  "Great  hill  farm''  on  this  way  be- 
hind ye  beach  dunes,  and  of  about  the  year  iSoo,  and  so  styled  because  it 
extended  to  and  comprised  Great  hill  and  beyond  it;  and  upon  which  rising 

78 


ground,  and  near  by,  pine  trees  were  then  growing?  At  the  time  of  ve  farm, 
there  stood  a  fine  wood  of  pitch-pine  trees,  and  the  ground  was  free  from 
underbrush,  and  suitable  for  picnic  purposes,  on  this  barren  sea  wall  that  you 
now  behold,  and  it  extended  Westward  to  yonder  extensive  rocky  point,  Of 
a  truth  it  was  all  green  land  in  that  day  from  this  spot  near  ye  old  river  to 
Great  Hill,  but  the  farm  did  not  include  ye  pine  woods  on  the  sand  dunes, 
but  reached  to  them. 

The  owner  of  this  river-farm  was  Isaac  Topping,  a  former  native  of 
England,  and  who  when  grown  aged,  removed  to  the  village  above   us.  and 
passed  the  remainder  of  his  days  there.      Here  near  the  road,  the  broad,  one 
storied  farm  house  with  large  chimney  in  ye  middle,  sat,  but  in  after  years  it 
was  removed  to  ye  Joseph    Wells  farm  yonder  where  it  was  used  as  one  of 
the  appended  buildings.     Near  the  dwelling  stood  its  large  farm  barn.     At 
that  time  the   way  from   ye   village    of  Wells  to  Arundel,  hereabouts,  after 
passing  the  Little  river  followed  not  the  direct  course  as  at  present,  but  per- 
formed a  detour  through  ye  woods  to  the  North  and  East  again,  entering  the 
present  highway  not  far  distant  from  ye  Mousam  River.     And  in  that  period, 
in  the  season,  the  householder  with  large  basket  on  arm  and  visiting  yon 
nearby  rocky  point,  would  fill  it  at  one  visit  to  the  brim  with  ye  great  crusta- 
ceans, gathered  at  the  ei)b  tide  in  the  salt  water  pools  among  the  rocks.     Ah, 
that  was  the  time  when  ye  Continent  was  new  ! 

Bestir  yourself  kindly  Associate,  the  sun  is  journeying  to  the  West,  ere 

79 


long  we  will  behold  "Horus  on  the  horizon''  we  must  visit  yon  point  and 
sightly  hill  before  our  return,  passing  thither  by  this  undulating  pasture  way, 
which  indeed  appears  to  have  once  been  formed  by  the  waves,  and  crossing 
the  Stony  barrier  with  its  several  jutting  planks  raised  against  the  ancient 
river  in  1793;  and  also  passing  the  water  to  the  South  of  it  styled  by  people 
of  a  former  day  "Ye  eel  pond"  and  to  a  small  distance  beyond  it  on  the 
Western  shore  of  the  old  river  where  on  rising  ground  sits  ye  old  time  farm 
house  upon  which  the  tall  balm  of  Gilead  trees  cast  their  moving  leaf 
shadows.  Ah,  how  fair  the  prospect  is!  But  friend  do  not  view  this  house 
as  of  very  ancient  date,  altho.  it  sits  upon  ground  inhabited  by  the  white  folk 
since  a  remote  past.  The  dwelling  can  scarce  have  existed  here  previous  to 
the  year  1820,  but  another  and  earlier  habitation  sat  by  it,  each  existing  at  the 
same  time,  but  on  which  site  was  later  a  deserted  cellar  only.  Indeed,  'tis 
said  that  the  first  house  or  cabin  here  rested  nearer  toward  ye  sea  than  the 
present  one,  and  faced  the  West.  But  it  was  on  ye  highland  at  ye  distant 
part  of  the  traveled  road,  where  the  way  from  Wells  to  Arundel  passes  the 
village  track,  that  ye  ancestors  of  the  Hart  family  first  found  a  home  for 
themselves  hereabouts  long  since,  when  journeying  from  the  far  town  of 
Hampton  in  the  former  New  Hampshire  Grants,  and  bringing  a  part  of  their 
household  goods  in  an  ox-cart.  But  ye  sheep  they  transported  hither  by 
water  in  a  scow  for  fearofthe  wild  animals  to  be  met  vvfith  in  a  land  journey. 
Here  for  many  years  yeoman  John  Hart  dwelt,  and  East  of  his  large,  two  pair 

So 


of  stairs  house,  stood  a  commodious  barn  and  other  outbuildings;  also  the 
early  planted  orchard,  but  now  even  ye  house  cellar  stones  are  removed. 

After  a  course  of  years,  a  son  Henry  born  at  ye  old  homestead  on  the 
road  above,  altho.  not  young,  married  a  youthful  wife,  and  removed  to  this 
farm  by  the  sea  shore,  purchasing  the  viride  and  valuable  nearby  timber  tract 
of  his  brother  Nelson. 

The  extensive  lay  of  land  on  the  South  jutting  into  the  sea,  and  where 
much  of  the  hay  of  the  farm  was  cut,  was  termed  "Point  field,''  and  when 
wind-harassed  travellers  journeyed  along  the  -chore  by  the  ancient  highway, 
there  then  existed  on  the  farm  a  blacksmith's  shop,  where  the  fariier  would 
oft  clinch  a  nail  or  set  a  shoe  of  the  traveller's  horse.  Nearby,  on  this  broad, 
sunlit  shore,  long  since,  a  cast  away  seaman  was  pitifully  lifted  from  ye  sands, 
and  laid  to  rest  beneath  the  sods  of  "Point  field,"  and  long  after  ye  spot  of  the 
resting  place  was  known  to  ye  dwellers  ot  the  farm. 

Often  on  a  Sunday  would  ye  young  wife  don  her  cape  and  hood  to 
saunter  'mid  ye  flowers  and  grasses  of  Point  field,  albeit  the.  once  she  was 
severely  censured  by  her  strict  aunt  for  so  doing  on  the  Sabbath  day.  "Fie, 
fie,  do  you  not  recall  that  in  the  peaceful  land  from  whence  our  forebears 
came,  how  that  when  ye  steeple  bells  called  to  worship  then  would  *"ye 
decent  tradesman  wend  his  way  to  the  fane  with  his  two  daughters,  each  with 
her  morocco    bound  prayer-book   neatly  folded   in  a  pocket  handkerchief  ? 


Do  thou  the  same! '' 

*W.  Irving 


8i 


Now  it  chanced  that  there  was  not  formerly  a  well  at  ye  house  on  the 
farm,  and  in  early  summer  the  wife  was  wont  to  visit  a  natural  font  styled 
"Ye  upper  Spring"  that  lay  somewhere  on  the  hill-top,  for  a  supply  of  water, 
while  later  in  the  season  she  sought  the  "Lower  Spring,"  which  was  more 
enduring,  and  crossing  two  fence  stiles  to  do  so,  and  which  flow  of  water 
gushed  forth  below  there  by  ye  pitch  pine  wood  at  the  edge  of  the  tide 
water. 

And  on  a  time  the  good  woman  journeyed  alone  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance and  upon  foot,  bearing  ye  white  sheep's  wool  to  be  carded  into  rolls, 
which  when  perfected,  she  returned  homewards  in  the  same  manner,  and 
spinning  ye  wool  and  dyeing  the  yarn,  she  patiently  knitted  close  mittens, 
and  again  wending  her  way  on  foot  to  a  distant  village  at  the  Eastward  she 
disposed  of  these  works  of  her  industry,  and  with  the  proceeds  purchased  for 
herself  a  warm  overgarment. 

Look  yonder  on  the  slope  of  the  field  below  and  North  of  ye  farm  house; 
where  many  whitened  shells  were  brought  to  ye  surface  of  the  soil  by  the 
plow  in  later  years,  evidence  of  a  lodgement  of  the  Indians  in  a  far  away 
time.  But  yon  sun  is  scarce  two  hours  high,  we  must  not  linger  longer  here, 
but  retrace  our  steps  b}'  the  way  that  we  came. 

And  now  having  again  crossed  ye  rocky  bridge,  over  ye  former  "Cape 
Porpoise  river,"  and  reached  the  rising  ground  where  we  lingered  a  while  in 
coming  hither,  we  may  again  turn  our  faces  to  that  blue  sea,  for  tales  of 

82 


marine  mishap  hereabouts  trouble  my  memory.  Now  view  yonder  a  bit, 
West  of  the  river  outlet!  Some  forty  years  since  a  foreign  schooner  destined 
for  Boston,  and  laden  with  lumber,  laths  and  shingles,  came  ashore  on  ye 
beach  in  a  fog  in  the  summer  season.  Two  days  time  were  required  in  dis- 
charging the  vessel,  when  an  anchor  was  taken  out  astern,  and  the  line  hove 
taut,  Ere  long  the  craft  was  drawn  into  deep  water  again  uninjured,  and 
rioated  to  ye  other  river  for  a  harbor. 

At  another  season  in  ye  fall  of  the  year,  a  small  Province  schooner  laden 
with  fish,  and  also  sailing  for  Boston,  was  discovered  to  be  close  into  the  land 
at  ye  mouth  of  the  Mousam  river,  but  on  the  full  of  the  tide.  And  luckily  it 
chanced  that  neighbor  Joseph  Wells,  whose  home  was  near  ye  bridge,  beh'°ld 
the  plight  of  ye  vessel,  and  hastening  down  to  the  shire  at  the  debouching  of 
ye  river,  by  motioning  and  the  making  of  signs  with  hands  and  arms,  piloted 
the  little  craft  into  the  mouth  of  the  stream  where  she  was  anchored. 

Ye  fragments  of  timbers  now  discerned  yonder,  are  the  remains  of  a 
vessel  laden  with  casks  of  lime,  that  in  more  recent  years  was  drifted  on  to 
the  bar  or  a  rocky  strand,  a  little  beyond  the  river,  or  toward  the  sun  setting 
with  cargo  burning.  That  portion  of  it  not  consumed  was  salved  with  shovels, 
when  ye  bilge  and  other  unburned  parts  of  the  vessel  were  later  washed  high 
upon  the  sands. 

Now  it  once  fell  out  that  beyond  Great  hill,  where  upon  the  upper  side 
of  Gillespie  point  is  the  gravelly  bluff  ;  on  Christmas-time  quite  fifty  years 

S3 


gone  by  a  Province  Schooner  of  some   150  tons  burthen,  that  had  made  a 
voyage  to  ye  straits  at  the  North,  and  traded  for,  or  become  possessed  of  a 
cargo  of  furs,  which  was  freighted   to  Boston  and  sold  there,  and  had  taken 
on  board  stores  of   flour,  shorts,  etc.,  for  her  home  port,    was    after   sailing, 
beset  by  a  snow  squall,  and  allowed  by  h-r  people  to  drive,  when  she  brought 
up  under  the  bank  of  ye  Point  I  have  shewn  you.     Ye  vessel  was  badly  worm 
eaten,  but  could  have  presently  been  gotten  off  the  rocks,  had  not  some  de- 
signing person  at  night,  separated  her  planking  with  an  iron  bar,  for  she  was 
highly  insured,  and  allowed  the  hold  to  fill  with  water.     The  craft  was  pur- 
chased as  she  lay,  by  one  Capt.  Oakes  and  Mr.   Lewis   Wormwood,   when 
venturesome  neighbor  Hubbard  over  at  ye  cove,  and  other  persons,  stopped 
ye  leak  and  she  was  drawn  fiom  her  rocky  cradle  and  sailed  to  Arundel,  where 
new  planking  was  done,   and  sufficient  repairs  were  made  to  give  the  large 
schooner  American  Register  and  papers,  when  she  was  renamed  the  "Rover's 
Bride"  and  took  the  sea  again. 

Indeed,  the  same  rocky  point  "Stopped  the  way"  against  yet  another 
craft  a  bit  larther  outward  toward  the  extreme  end  of  ye  point,  but  scant 
years  later,  when  ye  small  Provincetown  fishing  schooner  Gleam  of  some 
forty  tons  burthen  came  on  to  the  rocks  in  a  fortunate  bight  of  the  shore, 
when  she  was  presently  purchased  by  neighbor  Hubbard  and  Capt.  Oakes 
for  $150,  drawn  from  her  perilous  berth,  gotten  to  the  nearby  seaport  town^ 
careened  on  the  flats  there,  repaired  and  resumed  her  fishing  voyage. 

84 


But  can  you  scan  yet  beyond  and  East  of  the  Gillespie  point,  where  a 
narrow  channel  at  ebb  tide  separates  it  from  Black  ledge,  and  beyond  that 
even  to  the  cove,  where  ye  headland  formerly  styled  "Two  Acres''  juts  into 
the  sea  ?  There  at  the  main  land  end  were  the  works  in  ye  Revolutionary 
days  for  the  making  of  salt.  At  ye  extreme  farther  end  the  land  has  not 
wasted  or  changed,  but  on  ye  cove  side  of  the  middle  space  it  has  fallen 
away  much.  And  farther  beyond  towards  ye  extreme  end  were  formerly  the 
graves  of  seamen  from  a  luckless  brig,  that  was  long  since  conveying  a 
cargo  of  iron  from  Russia,  and  which  was  cast  away  on  ye  ledge  a  bit  outside 
the  point,  and  since  bearing  ye  name  of  the  cargo,  and  all  of  her  company 
lost,  They  were  buried  on  ye  point,  but  the  ever  restless  sea  in  after  years 
crumbled  the  land,  and  ye  whitened  relics  were  oft  discovered  fallen  out 
upon  the  strand. 

And  now  reverting  your  gaze  to  ye  mainland  back  of  the  point  where  on 
the  near  hill  sits  yon  summer  hostelry,  there  and  on  the  highway  beyond  it 
ye  yeoman  Nahum  Wentworth,  born  in  the  town  of  Rollinsford,  in  New 
Hampshire,  in  1774,  and  his  brother  Benjamin  emigrating  hither  in  1803,  and 
purchasing  a  considerable  tract  of  land  and  marsh,  and  apportioning  to  each 
his  farm,  peacefully,  established  themselves  in  the  pursuit  of  tilling  ye  soil. 
Now  in  the  lower  end  of  ye  field  of  the  former  brother  was  an  ancient  clay 
pit  and  brick  kiln,  the  pit  now  filled  with  brush.  There  many  old  time  bricks 
fashioned  by  hand  and  rudely  so,  were  found,  and  not  a   few  recovered    for 

85 


future  use.  But  by  whom  ye  kiln  was  made  or  when  it  was  used  was  never 
learned  by  this  early  husbandman,  nor  any  of  his  children.  Ye  low  eaved 
dwelling  oi  the  brother  Benjamin  rested  on  the  hostelry  hill  that  I  have  men- 
tioned and  as  one  journeyed  tow^ard  ye  sea  and  but  a  bit  East  of  the  road, 
where  you  now  espy  the  yellow^  store  house.  The  decrepit  apple  tree  now 
near  this  building,  stood  at  the  house  rear  door,  and  hard  by  the  house  sat 
the  barn  with  its  shed  like  lean-to  to  shelter  the  cattle  and  the  overhanging 
rafters  of  which  were  thickly  set  with  the  mud  built  nests  of  the  eaves  swal- 
lows. 

"Your  description  entertains  me  much  companion.  How  rare  now  are 
those  tranquil,  domestic  scenes  of  the  past,  but  pray  what  may  the  raised, 
irregular  plateau  ot  ground  in  the  corner  of  the  field,  a  bit  below  the  site  of 
the  former  homestead  imply?  I  have  observed  it  oft  before.  It  has  a  sightly 
position  surely,  and  is  separated  from  the  roadway  by  a  stone  retaining  wall; 
and  when  the  field  has  been  ploughed  this  spot  has  been  avoided  by  the 
coulter,  and  not  a  furrow  turned  upon  it.  And  there  are  five  considerable 
rough,    flat  and  for  the  most  part,  field  stones  lying  there,  marking  graves    I 

suppose  ?" 

Alas,  that  is  their  import  friend !  Harken  to  this  brief  tale  of  misfor- 
tune. It  was  Easterly  of  Great  hill  there,  as  I  have  heard  ye  fathers  and 
grandfathers  hereabouts  relate  of  the  happening.  Yonder  on  ye 
Western  shore  of  the  outer  part  of  the  Gillespie  point,  where  you  esciy  the 

86 


the  "Brig  Ledge"  exposed  at  halt  tide,  with  the  foam  now  gathering  white, 
"like  the  blanched  lip,"  about  it.  And  the  rocks  were  so  styled  because  an 
unfortunate  foreign  vessel  of  that  rig  without  cargo,  and  blown  far  from  her 
course  was  long  since  dashed,  and  all  broken  up.  Some  of  the  crew  were 
drowned  and  others  partially  so.  They  were  gathered  up  by  kindly  farmer 
folk  and  some  cared  for  at  ye  former  dwelling  of  aged  "A.unty  Boothby,"  as 
she  was  wont  to  be  known,  yet  farther  East.  These  people  recovered,  and 
ere  long  departed  for  their  homes  at  the  Eastward.  Others  ot  )'e  ship- 
wrecked seamen  were  carefully  nursed  beneath  ye  roof  tree  of  the  Benjamin 
Wentworth  dwelling,  that  I  have  just  described  to  you,  but  alas  these 
"passed  hence,"  and  wer£  laid  to  rest  beneath  those  field  stones  that  you 
have  described  !  Ah,  there  friend  beneath  ye  sods  of  this  sightly  hill-side 
field  they  sleep,  thro,  sunshine  and  cloud,  shadow  and  storm,  and  yonder  is 
the  bright,  azure  sea  !  Truly  comrade,  well  may  we  rest  our  faces  in  our 
hands,  and  muse  on  that  spirit  of  poesy,  so  well  typified  in  that  far,  glimmer- 
ing and  sparkling  sea,  that  anon  destroys.  Think  of  those  hapless  ones  that 
repose  there,  thro,  sunshine,  and  rain  from  the  passing  cloud,  yea  beneath 
ye  field  grass  and  the  rain  beaten  and  anon  sunlighted  turf,  and  bewail  the 
spirit  of  poesy. 

I  have  but  a  bit  more  to  relate  to  you  when  we  will  depart.  You  must 
scan  the  rocky  seaside  hill  but  a  trifle  at  the  rear  of  the  shore  where  ye 
lordly  hotel  sits,  for  there  was  to  be  seen  a  few  years  back  the  cellar  depres- 

87 


sionof  the  once  comfortable  dwelling  of  Great  Grandfather  Richard  Boothby, 
who  came  to  this  region  in  an  early  time.  But  after  a  course  of  years  the 
ancient  building,  which  had  served  as  a  garrison,  to  ye  residents  hereabouts, 
they  resorting  to  it  in  times  of  indian  alarm,  and  which  the  traveled  road  by 
the  seashore  closelyapproached  before  pitching  down  over  the  hill,  aye,  skirt- 
ing its  very  side  and  nearly  touching  its  door  stone,  falling  into  desuetude,  its 
frontdoor  on  the  Western  end,  as  Pharoahs  chariots,  drave  heavily  on  its  long, 
wrought  iron, barn  door  hinges;  and  the  clapboards  of  the  house  walls  for  the 
space  of  two  feet  above  ye  ground  having  mostly  dropped  away  from  repeated 
banking  of  sods  for  warmth  in  winter,  and  the  building  not  being  worth  re- 
pairing one  of  ye  sons  caused  a  very  similar  dwelling  to  be  removed  from 
Arundel,  and  set  a  trifle  to  the  Westward  of  the  former  situation,  as  that  had 
been  much  too  airy. 

There  ye  family  descendants  dwelt  until  Farmer  Hodge  possessed  the 
domain,  near  sixty  year  now  gone  by,  and  constructed  another  story  on  ye 
house,  which  long  after  remained  a  landmark  there. 

Behold  the  hillock  yonder  with  ye  oaks,  and  which,  long  since  was 
possessed  by  a  colored  servitor  of  one  Thomas  Boothby,  the  son  of  Richard, 
and  was  ever  after  known  to  ye  inhabitants  by  his  sobriquet.  Ah,  many  a 
homely  scene  have  these  old  time  shores  produced,  when  as  ye  aged  people 
have  related,  some  good  housewife  of  the  past  would  go  forth  from  her 
door  but  a  trifle,  and  pound  a  measure  of  maize  in  the  ledge  before  her  house 

88 


with  a  suitable  shaped  stone,  as  ye  Indians  and  early  comers  here  were  wont 
to  do  in  days  gone  by. 

Now  gaze  yonder  if  you  may,  yet  farther  Easterly,  to  the  level  land  at 
the  rear  of  the  sea  beach  before  one  reaches  the  hostelry  styled  in  honor  of 
ye  early  Hampshire  Grants,  fcr  the  locality  there  was  by  ye  older  inhabitants 
known  as  "Gibson's  yard,"  because  of  a  former  dweller  on  the  land  of  that 
name,  who  was  once  laboring  in  his  cornfield  with  his  musquit  lying  close 
beside  him,  and  which  he  removed  from  one  corn  hill  to  another  as  he  pro- 
gressed wfth  his  work,  but  for  a'  that  a  wiley  savage  appearing  out  of  ye 
wood  took  his  life  by  a  shot  from  a  fire-arm. 

But  now  in  fancy  do  I  behold  the  spars  and  tall  masts  of  the  hapless 
barque  Horace,  silhouetted  against  the  storm  troubled  sky  as  she  rolls  in  ye 
surf  at  the  "first  beach,"  just  beyond  the  'Two  Acre  Point''  not  very  far 
distant  from  us. 

However,  we  must  not  linger  longer  here  !  Hasten  friend,  and  as  we  toil- 
somely regain  our  homes  by  the  same  way  that  we  first  came  hither,  I  shall 
complete  my  narration,  by  recalling  and  relating  to  you  the  story  of  the 
vessels  stranding. 


89 


3>=g5L2S;^ 


MISHAP   OF   THE   HORACE 


Attend  to  my  words  patient  listener !  Now  as  I  strolled  by  yonder  shore, 
but  scant  weeks  since,  I  viewed  the  timbers  of  ye  vessel,  that  I  have 
acquainted  you  with  on  the  Strand,  and  the  wavelets  coursing  among  them. 
I  shall  now  relate  to  you  the  tale  of  the  hapless  craft. 

Well,  you  must  know  that  one  Master  *  *  built  her  down  at 
Scarborough  in  the  year  I S27.  The  Messrs.  *  *  of  Arundel,  owned  ye 
greater  part  of  the  vessel,  the  brother  *  *  being  "ships  husband",  Yes, 
and  Capt.  *  *  of  Kennebunk,  owned  a  piece  ;  and  also  Capt.  *  * 
of  Arundel,  who  commanded  her,  with  his  brother  acting  as  mate. 

Now,  she  was  bound  from  New  Orleans  to  Liverpool,  with  a  full  cargo 
of  cotton,  near  1300  bales.  She  was  a  vessel  of  389  tons  and  this  was  her 
first  voyage,  in  fact  she  had  never  made  a  voyage. 

She  was  a  good  barque,  black,  sided  with  some  stripes  about  her.  The 
crew,  some  dozen  or  more,  gathered  at  New  Orleans,  were  all  strangers,  a 
mixed  lot,  with  some  foreigners  amongst  them. 

Now  it  chanced  that  a  story  passed  among  these  men,  that  the  vessel  had 
brought  a  general  cargo  from  some  Northern  port  to  the  Southern  City,  and 
that  a  surplus  of  the  money  provided  to  purchase  it  was  yet  on  board,  some 
$25000;  be  this  as  it  may,  e're  long  they  laid  plans  to  gain  possession  of  ye 


craft.  They  would  destroy  the  Captain's  life,  but  preserve  that  of  the  mate, 
for  he  might  later  serve  them. 

Listen  friend,  and  consider  how  tales  pass  from  lip  to  lip.  Some  persons 
declared  that  ye  Captain  and  his  mate  were  impetuous,  but  Mr,  *  *  who 
was  on  board  the  vessel  later  did  not  discover  any  action  like  this. 

The  sailor's  plot  accomplished,  then  they  would  scuttle  or  lire  the  barque. 
But  it  chanced  that  the  cook,  a  Swede,  and  who  was  also  to  perish,  overheard 
these  bad  men's  speech,  and  \varned  ye  Captain,  and  he  laid  a  counter  plan 
of  his  own  to  secure  them  upon  the  first  appearance  of  mutiny.  Ere  long 
several  of  them  were  seized,  and  lashed  with  cords,  for  there  were  not  any 
irons  on  the  craft,  and  in  the  melee  the  mate  was  injured.  The  vessel  now 
being  short  handed  the  master  endeavored  to  make  ye  port  of  Boston  tissaid, 
but  wind  and  tide  prevented,  and  when  off  this  shore  he  chose  to  sail  for 
Arundel,  for  there  his  owners  were  and  his  family  also.  He  would  place  the 
men  who  refused  to  do  duty  on  shore,  and  secure  others  in  their  places,  and 
would  remain  over  a  tide  or  two  only.  Ah,  friend,  we  would  that  he  had  not 
made  the  mistake  of  anchoring  in  an  open  roadstead,  instead  of  proceeding 
to  Portland,  where  there  was  a  safe  harbor  and  the  U.  S.  Court  sat,  before 
whom  only  his  mutineers  could  be  tried !  Some  persons  averred  that  the 
crew  believed  that  they  were  sailing  thither,  and  were  assured  that  ye  old 
observatory  on  Point  Arundel  was  Falmouth  lighthouse.  However  that  may 
be,  the  ill  fated  barque  anchored  inside  yon  fishing  rocks,  near  the  river's 

92 


mouth  on  Wednesday  the  2nd.  of  May.  1S38.  Now.  when  the  report  reached 
Kennebunk  village,  that  the  Horace  was  off  the  bar,  some  of  the  boys  clam- 
bered by  the  ladder  to  ye  Unitarian  church  belfry  with  a  spy  glass  to  take  a 
look  at  the  cra.t,  for  it  was  out  of  the  common  course  of  happenings  for  so 
large  a  vessel  to  come  hither. 

The  mutinous  sailors  were  at  once  set  on  shore,  and  transported  to  Port- 
land, and  one  of  our  townspeople  who  viewed  them  as  they  were  landed 
declared  that  they  were  a  sheepish  appearing  lot  of  folk. 

Ha,   ha.  there  were  worthy  Messrs.     "'^     *     and     *     *     serving  on  ye 
jury  at  Portland  at  thi,s  season,  and  they  had  but  just  been  discharged  from 
it,  and  had  sauntered  up.  to  ye  tavern  to  dine,  and  had  ordered  their  horse  to 
be  harnessed  ;   Aye,  and  were  prepared  to  commence  their  homeward  journey, 
when  ye  marshal  appeared,  saying  "You  must  remain  here,  some  mutineers 
have  been  brought  to  town  in  irons  from  Arundel"!    Indeed,  'twas  said  that 
the  very  appearance  of  the  men  would  prejudice  one  against  them  so  forbid- 
dmg  was  their  appearance.     This  additional  duty  detained  our  friends  from 
home  another  day. 

Now  new  seamen  were  procured  for  ye  vessel,  one,  our  acquaintance 
*  ^  and  other  persons  from  hereabouts  were  sent  on  board  the  vessel. 
But  all  of  these  proceedings  caused  unlucky  delay,  for  the  wind  arose,  and 
blew  furiously  all  day  Friday  and  Saturday  from  E.  S.  E.  Indeed,  it  must 
have  been  a  severe  blow  for  various  of  the  villagers  at  K.  upon  meeting  with 

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one  another  remarked  thu  ye  conditions  "were  serious"  for  the  vessel  at 
anchor,  and  another  person  who  dwelt  hard  by  the  shore,  visiting  it  and 
viewing  the  craft  straining  at  her  chains  exclaimed  "Shi  will  not  weather  the 
gale"  At  the  commencement  of  the  blow  several  persons  went  out  to 
remain  on  board  the  craft  for  the  night,  Capt.  *  '"''  being  one  (an 
experienced  pilot)  another  Capt.  *  *  (a  capable  seaman)  Capt.  *  * 
was  also  on  board,  with  his  mate  and  a  'ull  crew. 

The  wind  disported  itself  so  violently  that  other  persons  who  would, 
could  not  pass  off  to  ye  craft.  Indeed,  'tis  said  that  at  this  time  ye  sea  waters 
invaded  the  fields.  The  barque  was  with  both  anchors  down  with  chain 
cables.  Now  on  Saturday  night  the  5th  of  May,  one  of  the  chains  parted  for 
the  strain  was  too  much  for  her.  On  seeing  this  happen,  the  Captain  fearing 
that  the  other  chain  would  not  continue  long,  at  about  15  minutes  before  12 
o'clock  slipped  it,  and  at  the  same  time  ordered  all  hands  aloft  to  loose  the 
sails  intending  to  work  the  vessel  out  to  sea,  but  in  this  extremity  by  wind 
and  tide  the  barque  would  not  obey  the  rudder,  and  ere  the  men  found  time 
to  do  their  work  they  heard  the  Captain  shout  for  them  to  come  down,  for  you 
must  know  that  he  had  heard  the  breaker's  dirge.  Thereupon,  down  they 
came,  but  scarce  had  their  feet  touched  the  deck  or  their  hands  let  go  the 
lines,  when  ye  vessel  struck  on  the  "Half  way  rock''  off  Oakes's  neck  there, 
half  a  mile  distant  from  the  anchoring  ground.  Some  style  this  ledge  ye 
"Wash  rocks,"  and  declare  that  the  vessel  left  her  chain  lying  across  them. 

94 


However  that  may  be,  here  she  remained  for  15  minutes  bumping  heavily, 
and  'tis  said,  lost  her  rudder,  stern  post,  false  keel,  and  was  bent  or  hogged 
by  the  rough  usage,  besides  filling  with  water.  Had  the  cargo  been  aught, 
but  cotton,  or  had  she  remained  longer  on  the  reef,  the  vessel  would  have 
foundered  or  gone  to  pieces,  and  all  persons  on  board  possibly  perished. 
However,  she  rose  011  the  ledge  with  the  surge,  beat  over  it.  and  again  drift- 
ing half  a  mile  Westerly  came  ashore  upright,  broadside  on,  with  masts  all 
standing,  at  night,  mid  a  tremendous  surf,  for  the  gale  yet  continued  and  it 
was  high  tide,  on  Boothby's  or  th°  "first  beach,"  some  150  yds.  from  high 
water  mark  and  hard  by  ye  "Two  acre  lot.'" 

Now  the  Captain  fearing  the  vessel  would  go  to  pieces,  in  company  with 
ye  mate  and  one  or  two  seamen,  lashed  himself,  and  swung  overboard.  Well 
may  we  pity  the  poor  Captain  for  he  was  much  grieved  at  the  loss  of  his 
vessel,  and  informed  two  oi  his  owners  later  that  were  the  event  to  happen 
again  he  would  wish  to  perish  with  his  vessel  Alas,  the  barque  was  ere  long 
beaten  around  with  her  end  seaward,  and  settled  in  the  sand. 

Our  friend,  Mr.  ^  *  stepping  from  the  rear  door  of  his  house  in  the 
early  morning  was  surprised  to  behold  the  masts  of  the  Horace  rising  from 
the  beach,  and  proceeded  thither.  The  Captain  was  near  by  ye  vessel,  and 
his  appearance  our  friend  viewed  with  favor,  and  as  the  rain  was  yet  falling 
he  offered  him  the  protection  of  his  overcoat. 

On  Sunday  morning,   when  the  mishap  became  known  at  Kennebunk 

95 


re 


village,  the  people  went  down  to  the  shore  in  large  numbers,  and  the 
beheld  the  craft  appearing  very  large  upon  the  beach.  At  low  water  one 
could  saunter  around  her  as  now.  This  was  a  picture  of  ill  luck.  There  was 
Mr.  *  *  father  of  the  principal  owners  with  a  large,  old  fashioned  camlet 
cloak,  wading  out  as  ye  tide  arose  to  rescue  articles  thrown  overboard  by 
persons  on  the  wreck.  At  the  back  of  the  beach  was  the  longboat,  with 
various  members  of  the  crew  lying  about  it.  When  the  tide  was  down  the 
boys  assembled  beneath  the  sides  of  the  vessel,  and  one  of  them  residing  in 
Kennebunk  daring  the  boys  of  Arundel  climbed  safely  on  board  the  craft  by 
a  rope  that  dangled  from  a  spar  overhead. 

Well  friend,  operations  were  at  once  begun  on  Sunday  morning  to  get 
the  cotton  safeiy  ashore,  and  to  dismantle  the  vessel,  and  a  busy  scene  it 
presented  I  assure  you,  many  oxen  and  men  being  employed  in  the  work, 
which  could  be  done  only  at  low  tide.  Boats  could  not  be  used  in  this  under- 
taking. By  the  afternoon  of  Sunday  the  deckload  had  been  all  taken  off,  and 
part  of  the  cotton  betvt^een  decks — some  loo  bales.  Some  of  the  sails  and 
rigging  were  also  safely  brought  on  shore.  A  breach  partially  stove  in  the 
bow,  was  made  larger  by  removing  some  of  the  timbers,  and  a  portion  of  the 
cargo  was  rolled  out  there.  The  cotton  in  great  quantities  was  heaped  upon 
the  back  of  the  beach,  and  on  the  "Two  Acre"  point.  The  cotton  was  wet, 
and  ye  fields  were  full  of  it.  Our  townsman  Mr.  *  *  declared  that  he 
would  not  have  previously  believed  that  so  many  bales  could  have  been  taken 

96 


from  so  small  a  vessel,  and  a  portion  of  it,  several  tiers,  'tis  said  was  not 
salved,  because  it  could  not  be  reached  being  mixed  with  water  and  sand  in 
the  lower  hold  or  bilge.  Now  the  weather  continued  very  pleasant  after  the 
great  storm,  but  it  was  difficult  to  remove  the  cargo,  and  a  week  at  least  was 
occupied  in  doing  this  work.  The  cotton  was  of  excellent  quality,  and  some  of 
it,  recovered  by  the  residents  of  the  neighborhood,  was  in  existence  for  a 
long  time  afterwards.  Indeed  the  farmer's  daughters  spun  and  wove  domestic 
fabrics  from  it  !  When  the  cargo  was  all  out  of  ye  wreck  it  was  widely  adver- 
tised at  Lawrence,  Lowell  and  other  manufacturing  places  about  Boston,  and 
many  persons  came  from  the  Westward  when  the  auction  was  held,  deeming 
it  a  good  speculation  to  buy  the  commodity,  and  the  cotton  was  said  truly  to 
have  brought  a  better  price  than  it  would  have  if  delivered  at  Liverpool.  It 
was  noted  that  a  gentleman  from  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  purchased  ye  greater 
part  of  the  cotton. 

The  cargo  was  reported  at  the  time  of  the  disaster  to  be  insured  in  Lon- 
don; and  the  vessel  and  cargo  with  the  freight  were  estimated  to  be  at  above 
$100,000  value.  The  barque  and  freight  were  insured  in  Boston  for  $31,500, 
and  this  claim  must  needs  be  adjusted,  the  owners  abandoned  ye  vessel  to  the 
underwriters,  but  they  argued  that  the  Captain  went  aside  from  his  proper 
course  in  the  voyage,  and  the  contest  was  long  and  haggling.  Respected 
Mr.  *  *  was  called  upon  to  appear  as  a  witness,  the  underwriters  con- 
sidered that  ye  vessel  was  hogged  only,   and  could  be  gotten  off  the  beach, 

97 


and  Mr.  -  ^  was  sent  to  view  her.  He  discovered  that  the  right  or  star- 
board side  was  truly  out  of  shape,  being  thrown  up  quite  one  foot,  and  the 
bilge  or  bottom  of  the  unlucky  vessel  was  all  broken  in,  The  Court  found 
that  the  Captain  erred  only  in  judgment.  The  vessel  did  nut  lie  l(jr  a  long  time 
in  this  condition,  only  while  ye  case  was  beins  decided,  which  when  accom- 
plished, the  work  of  demolition  began.  Spars,  riggingand  masts  came  down, 
and  were,  tis  said,  later  used  for  the  barque  Isadore — but  other  persons  say — 
ye  Finland.  Mr,  "*  *  the  blacksmith  purchased  the  hull  for  the  iron  and 
copper  that  it  contained.  The  planking  was  stripped  off,  and  the  top  sides 
taken  down  as  low  as  the  tide  would  admit  of  the  work. 

There  was  some  thought  'tis  said,  of  blowing  out  ye  wreck  with  powder 
or  torpedoes,  but  that  science  was  not  so  well  understood  then  as  now,  and  it 
remained  undisturbed.     The  anchors  and  chains  were  recovered. 

Now  for  ye  wicked  mutineers,  the  first  cause  of  all  this  misfortune,  bills 
were  found  agamst  each  of  them  on  Saturday,  May  5th,  by  the  grand  jury  of 
the  U.  S.  Circuit  Court  at  Portland.  Each  prisoner  pleaded  not  guilty.  The 
same  day  they  were  again  brought  into  court.  Two  of  them  pleaded  guilty, 
and  were  sentenced  to  60  days  imprisonment  in  ye  County  Jail,  the  other  two 
were  discharged. 

And  now  friend  as  we  have  nearly  reached  the  end  of  our  Stroll,  ere 
passing  the  wood  and  field  to  our  homes  we  may  gaze  again  upon  the  river 
as   the    fresh    leafage  is  parted  by  the  strong,  summer  breeze.     And    truly 

98 


Companion,  as  we  view  the  time-honored  tide-stream,  full  to  the  brim,  its 
waters  so  blue  beneath  the  sky,  laving  its  banks  so  silently,  so  soft  its  touch; 
and  now  shaded,  now  light  with  myriad  changing  sparkles,  solitary,  lonely, 
ever  the  same,  and  with  ye  soft  green  and  deep  shade  of  the  groves  of  mid 
summer  with  the  afternoon  light  of  the  sky  over  them-on  its  lower  course. 
Ah,  then  we  yearn,  and  look  so  wistfully  to  learn  from  the  mute  river  the 
whole  story  of  its  life;  but  alas,  it  is  indifferent  to  our  interest,  and  for  the 
most  part  hides  its  ancient  history  in  its  almost  speaking  waters;  and  the 
emotion  of  our  own  thought  is  our  only  answer. 


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LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS 

Ml  I    M  llll    III! 


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