Sub-tropical rambles in the land of aphanapteryx. Personal experiences, adventures, and wanderings in and around the island of Mauritius

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THE

ISLAND OF MAUEITIUS

SUB-TROPICAL RAMBLES

IN

THE LAND OF THE APHANAPTERYX.

PERSONAL EXPERIENCES, ADVENTURES, AND WANDERINGS

IN AND AROUND

THE ISLAISTD OF 3IA URITIUS.
By NICOLAS PIKE.

NEW YORK:

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,

FRANKLIN SQUARE.

18 73.

-PA

Entered ticcording to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by

HAKFER & BROTHERS,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

C^ts 00htme

75 MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED TO

M. L L.

AS A MARK OF ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP AND FOR THE VALUABLE ASSISTANCE

RENDERED ME WHILST "WRITING ITS PAGES ; ALSO FOR THE KIND CAKE

AND ATTENTION BESTOWED UPON ME WHEN STRICKEN DOWN AVITH

FEVER ALONE IN A STRANGE LAND, AND WHICH NEARLY

PREVENTED THEM BEING WRITTEN AT ALL

513^5-'^

PEEFACE.

The pkesent volume of Sub-tropical Eambles is made
up from notes taken on my voyage from America to
Mauritius ; information gained in the latter wherever
possible ; and my own experience during the years I have
resided in it.

The * Gem of the Ocean ' is, in reality, but Httle known
to the world at large. Small as it is, only a dot in a vast
ocean, it is, or at least might be made, one of the most
fertile and productive of the English Colonies. Its
mountain scenery is grand, and its singularly formed
rugged peaks supply an endless fund for reflection. No-
where is the ' stone-book of Nature ' more widely opened,
so that ' he who runneth may read.' Its waterfalls, itii
caverns, its wild forest lands, must ever be sources of
pleasure to all who choose to seek for them. Its coasts
afford the naturahst never-ending stores for collection
and study, and all these go far to make up for the many
things so totally deficient in Mauritius ; in fact, they make

vi PREFACE.

life bearable, which would be without them a dull mono-
tone.

On my receiving my appointment as Consul to this
Island, I sought in vain for information respecting it.
With the exception of Baron Grant's work, written more
than a hundred years ago ; notes by an old French officer
quite as ancient, and a few scattered magazine articles, I
could find nothing.

I therefore determined to note everything I saw ; and
gain information of all kinds relative to this interesting
place, and the present volume is the result. To those
gentlemen who have assisted me so courteously by the
use of their books, or with personal information, I beg
to return my most sincere thanks.

In a second volume, nearly completed, I purpose
treating more fully on the Fauna and Flora of Mauritius.
I am aware much has been written on both, but am
equally aware (often to my disappointment) that such
writings have been mostly confined to articles sent to
various literary institutions, that he entombed in their
records, unavailable to the general reading public.

I have tried to give a fair but brief account of every-
thing without prejudice ; and if the reader, when he (or
she) lays down my book, should say, he has gained new
ideas, and a fair knowledge of the Island and its capa-
bilities, or even had some hours' amusement, I shall feel
my 'jottings by the way' have not been all labour in
vain.

I would say a word about the title of my book.

PREFACE. vii

Everybody has heard all about the Dodo, once existent
in Mauritius, but many are not aware of the very beau-
tiful bird the Aphanapteryx imperialism coexistent with
it, a sketch of which is on the title-page, and whose ex-
quisite red silky plumage might vie with the handsomest
birds of the present era.^

Nicolas Pike.

U.S. Consul, Port Lofis, MArnixius.

Nov. 1872.

* A full description of this bird will be given in a future volume

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGH

Leaving Home — Ball at Piney Point — In the Gruif Stream — St. Thomas —
Santa Cruz — Guadaloupe — Mr. Chaplain's Death — Barbadoes — Pernam-
buco — Olenda — Rio — Description of the City — Public Gardens —
Emperor s G-arden —A Night in the Forest — Excursion up the Corcovada —
Snakes — Descent — Public Squares — Departure from Rio ... 1

CHAPTER II.
EASTWARD BOUND.

Bad Weather— Catching an Albatross — Accident to Captain — Brilliance of
Southern Constellations — Serious Consequences of killing an Albatross —
Whale Brit — Tristan d'Acunha — Its History — Cliemical Barometer, and
how to make it — Arrival in Simon's Bay — Description of Country — Cape
Sheep — Hottentot Venus — The Pilot — Baboons— A Night in the Moun-
tains— Ascent of Table Mountain — Principal Features of Cape Town —
Harbour Lights — A Cape Waggon — Churches — Masonry — The Grovern-
ment — A Dutch Boer — Road from Cape Town to Simon's Bay — Adieu to
the Cape — A Hurricane— Hints on Cyclones — Mauritius at last . . 28

CHAPTER III.
ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS.

First Impressions of Port Louis from the Sea — Landing — A Night in the best
Hotel — The Harbour — Architecture of Houses— Chauss^e — Principal
Streets — Place d'Armes — Government House — Government Street —
Theatre — Champ de Mars — Labourdonnais Street— Mineral Spring —
Water — New Town — Plaine Verte— Company's Gardens — Bazaar — Moka
Street — Railway Depot — Bcirracks — College— Cliurches — Mosque-
Barbers — Masonic Lodgfs . . . . . . . . .55

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK IV.

PAMPLEMOUSSES GARDENS.

PAGE

M. Poivre — Description of Gardens — Centre Avenue — Obelisk — Lakes — Sago
Walk — Avenue of Fine Trees — Effects of Hurricane — Nursery — Boabab —
Grassy Slope — Mr. Home's Cottage — Curious Trees near it — Dr. Mellers
House — Fernery — Bernadin St. -Pierre — Loss of the St. Geran — Captain's
Death — And that of the Two Lovers — Tombs of Paul and Virginia . . 72

^ - -

CHAPTER V.

THE EACES.

The Beginning of Racing in Mauritius — Unprofitableness of Races — Horses
very inferior — Rules and Regulations up to Newmarket Mark — No Infor-
mation to be got — Preparations for Races — Race Monday — General Excite-
ment— The Race — Jockeys — The Loges — Saturday — Scenes in Bazaar —
Costumes — Nautch Girls — Toilettes — Painful Case of Take-in — Return
Home ............. 83

CHAPTER VI.

THE EPIDEMIC OF MAURITIUS.

t*)n Fevers generally — Malarious Fever in 1866 — Distress in the Districts —
Symptoms of the Fever — Complications — Effects of Quinine — Remedies —
The Fever, Malarious — Causes of Fever — Spores — Ague Plants — Causes
of Malarious Fever at Port Louis — At Grand River— The Lowlands —
Destruction of Trees — Sad Scenes — Funerals — The Western Cemetery —
Fete des Morts — Cemetery of Bois Marchand 90

CHAPTER VII.
THE CYCLONE OF 1868.

The Direction of the Winds, &c., from Feb. 27 to March 5 — Premonitory
Symptoms — Changes from 5th to 11th — Direction of Cyclone — Its Track
on the Ocean — Damages in Port Louis — Destruction of Churches, Ware-
houses, &c. — Effects in the Harbour — Irving Lodge — Scenes in the Streets
— Grand River Bridge— Midland and Southern Districts — Reduit —
Pamplemousses — Effects on the Sea-shore — Table of Losses. Deaths, &c. 11 1

CHAPTER VIII.

A TRIP TO THE ARSENAL.

Our Road — Arrival at Balaclava — Description of House and Grounds— Flour
Mill — Distillery— Patent Fuel — School for Indian Children — Lime Kilns
— Geology of the Coast .123

CONTENTS. 3d

CHAPTER IX.
THE GEOLOGY OF MAURITIUS.

PAGE

E'ctinct Craters — Cessation of Volcanic Action — Upheaval — Deposits at
Timor and other Islands — Force of Volcanic Agency — Mountain Peaks —
Placq — Craters — Dr. Ayres on Flat Island — Original Formation of
Mauritius — Submersion — Fossil Casts . . . . . . .129

CHAPTER X.

THE MOHARRUM OR TAMSEH.

Its Origin — "Whence the name Yamseh — The Find in the Latanier River —
The Disposal of their 'BonDieu' — Procession for Alms— Gouhns — How-
built — The Little Procession — Orgies at Plaine Verte — Colours worn by
Indians — Orand Procession — The Lion — Breaking the Gouhns — Return
Home — Ignorance of the Actors in Yamseh 136

CHAPTER XL
A VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND.

Departure from Port Louis — The Voyage — Arrival and Diificulty of Landing
— Size and Formation of the Island — The Flora — Dinner — Preparations for
sleeping — Fishing— Geological Description of the Island . . . 141

CHAPTER XII.
MT SECOND VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND.

Invitation - The Voyage — Arrival — Object of Visit — My Share of the Work —
Dinner — Departure of the ' Victoria ' — Our Preparations for the Night,
and the Storm's — ' In Thunder, Lightning, and in Rain ' — Our Exodus from
the Cave — Night and Morning — Preparations for Breakfast — Entomology
under Difficulties— Sail ho ! — Homeward bound — In Port Louis at last —
Fauna of Round Island — Extracts from Sir H. Barkly's Report — Quotations
from Letter . . . . . . . . . . . ,153

CHAPTER XIII.

A CHINESE FESTIVAL.

Preparations — Joss — Description of Temple — Ceremonies — Gambling —
Opera — Pantomime . , . . . . . . . .170

A

>ii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

AN EXCURSION UP THE POUCE MOUNTAIN.

PAGK

Early Morning — Begin our Ascent — Cardinal's Nest— Old Forts — Tunnel
under the Pouce — The Shoulder — The Summit — Ferns — View — Ento-
mology of the Mountain— Descent— Echo — Notes on different Ascents of
the Peter Both Mountain 178

CHAPTER XV.

EEDUIT.

It^ Vicissitudes— Reason of its first Establishment — Alleged Establishment —
Its Interior and Exterior — No Change under M. de Brillane — Anecdote of
Bartolomeo — Diflference of its Treatment under Sir R. Farquhar and his
Successors — Mauritius threatened with Monsters — Destruction of the Cause
of the Threat — Sir W, Gromm's Rule — Reduit in the Hands of Sir Henry
Barkly and his Lady — Description of Scenery — G-eological Features —
Ghosts — Mynas —Ferns and Fernery — Ravages of Cyclone of 1868 . 187

CHAPTER XVI.

THE MARRIAGE CEREMONY OF THE MADRAS MALABAR INDIANS.

Permission to visit a Wedding-feast — Preliminary Ceremonies — Initiation of
Bridegroom — Initiation of Bride — Intermediate Ablutions and Change of
Dress — Description of the Bride's second Appearance — The actual
Marriage — Presents to the Groom, and his Share of the Proceedings — Only
Food allowed the Wedded Pair — Sprees on the Third Day — Consummation. 194

CHAPTER XVII.

FLAT ISLAND.

Our Skipper — View inland — Turtle Bay — Old French Fort — Grand Baie
— Whales — Cannonier's Point — Land near Grand Baie — Fishing —
Gunner's Quoin — The Pass — Our Welcome — Quarantine Station — Water
Supply — ^Wells — Plants and Trees — Our Quarters — Landing-bridge —
Columba Rock — On the Reefs — Corals — Polyps — Zoophytes — Algse —
Palisade Bay — Lighthouse — Cemetery — The Mountain — Geological Fea-
tures— Caves — Gabriel Island — The Quoin — Detached Rocks on Mountain
— Volcanoes supposed to have been in this Vicinity — Return . . . 200

CHAPTER XVm.
LA CHASSE.

The Hunting Season in Mauritius — Game preserved — An Invite — On the Way
to theMeet — Our Posts — TheQuartiersMilitaires— Howl obeyed Orders —
Our Game — Ferns —Our Comrades' Luck — Our Count — A Wild Boar — Re-
turn from the Chasse — Distribution of Game — Description of Cochon Marron 211

CONTENTS, xni

CHAPTER XIX.

A HINDOO FESTIVAL.

PAGE c;

Deities principally worshipped at this Fete — Temple at Roche Bois — Dress of
both Sexes — The Old Man and his Jugglery — Burning and Flogging —
Priests and Dancing Girls — Indian Musical Ideas — "Walking through Fire —
Sham Human Sacrifice — January Fete — Crowds in Attendance— Gouhns —
The Priest's Blessing — Refreshments — Jewellers plying their Trade — Idols
— Torture as a Means to fulfil a Vow, or secure future Benefits — Rolling
round the Temple — Breaking Cocoa-nuts — The Tank — Ordeal by Diving —
Sinnatambou — Precepts of the Shastras in Reference to these degrading
Rites 22J

CHAPTER XX.
ACROSS COUNTRY TO THE DTA-MAMOU AND OTHER FALLS.

Advice to Stay-at-homes — Invitation — Leaving the City — Into the "Woods to
Fresanges — Ravenalas — Dhoodie — Night and Morning — Rain no Eifect on
our Spirits — Contrast of Colour in Woods — Our Guide and Woodsmen —
Ferns — Banks of the Riviere du Poste — Grand River, SE. — The Dya-
Mamou — The Caves — Cascade of Roche Platte — Back into the Woods
— A Path for us. Death to the Shrubs and Creepers — Carias— Wasps'
Nests — Swallows' Cave — A Skull — Story of Slave Woman — The Return —
Incredulity of Friends .......... 235

CH.iPTER XXI.

ON THE SEA, IN AND NEAR PORT LOUIS HARBOUR, WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME OF THE WONDERS THEREIN.

Start from Home — Embarking at the Trou Fanfaron — Docks, &c. — Landing
Bullocks — Scarcity of Shipping — Timber-ship unloading — Abundance
of Fish — Clearness of Water — Finding Caulerpa and Haliophila — De-
scription of Hydrometridse — Errantia — Coasts of Mauritius — Reefs and
Fringing Corals — Their Polyps — Boat touching the Reefs — Sharks and
other Monsters — Echinas— Fishing up Corals — Their Inhabitants — Fungi
Agariciformis — Preparing Corals for Sale — The Beauty of the Depths —
Origin of Barkly — Barkly Island — Its Shells and Algse— Aquariums —
Crabs under the Rocks — Surface Corals of Species I have not hitherto found
— Champagne Bottles ; the vinous Fumes equally mischievous to Man
and Reptiles — Actinias — Pugnacious Eels — Breakfast — Tea versus Beer or
Brandy— Dragging the Tide-pools — Flying Laffs — Gymnobranchiata —
Soldier and Hermit Crabs — Leaving the Island — Examining the Contents
of Fishermen's Bags — Ourites — Lobsters — Butterflies out at Sea — Holo-
thuroidse — Overboard to dig up Pinnae — Dolabella Rumphii Shells —
Tropic Birds — The Mud Laifs — Terrible AVounds inflicted by them — Sunset
Visions — Return to the Trou Fanfaron 246

xiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXII.

A TOUR ROUND THE ISLAND.

PA BE

My Comrades and Preparations — Grand River — Kcenig's Tower — Race-
jockeys — Denmark Hill — Point aux Caves — Caverns — Probable Origin of
the Petite Riviere Caverns — Strange Sights — A Night on the Rocks —
Pishing a la Patatrand — Plaines of St. Pierre — Grand Prospect from our
Dining-room — Fight with a Tazarre — Rempart River — The Trois
Mamelles — Catching Prawns — Tamarind River and Bay — Catching Olives
— Raspberries — Rats and Tenrecs Sharers in our Bedroom — Up the
Bed of the River — Our Night's Lodging — Point Plinders— Account of
Captain Flinders — The Tamarind Falls — Geneve Estate — Black River —
The Morne — Flying Foxes — Bale du Cap — A Python Creeper — The
Chamarel Falls — The Bel Ombre Estate — Jacotet Bay — Its Historic
Interest — Effect of the Winds on the neighboiiring District —River des
Galets — Actinias —A Marine Garden — Night-fishing — Falls of the River
des Galets — Bay of Souillac — The Savane — The Bois Sec — Tree Ferns —
Grand Bassin — Savane Falls — River du Poste — The Coast near the
Souflfleur — Pont Naturel — Bras deMer de Chaland — Point d'Esny — Grand
Port — Isle Passe — Mahebourg — The Cemetery 282

CHAPTER XXIII.

VISIT TO THE ISLE DE PASSE, AND CONTINUATION OF TOUR.

Preparation for Visit — River Creoles — Crater in Mahebourg Bay — Isle de
Passe — The Return — Aground — En route again — Point au Diable —
Mountain Ranges — Camisard — Its Geology — Ferns, &c. — Grand River SE.
— The Falls — The Beauchamp Estate — Statue to the Virgin — Trou d'Eau
douce — Point HoUandais — Annclides — Holothurise, &c. — Flacq — General
Description — St. Antoine — Amber Island — Caverns — Islets in Mapou Bay
— Polyp — Sunset — Arrival of English Fleet in Mapou Bay — Holicanthus
semicirciilatus — Battle with a Cave Eel — Situation of Pamplemousses--
The Gardens and Churches — On the Road to Port Louis— Cemetery ol
Bois Marchand — Peter Both — St. Croix — Olden Boundaries of Port Louis
and Defences — The City and its Cries .... . 327

CHAPTER XXIV.
THE HISTORY OF MAURITIUS.

From its Discovery by the Portuguese, in 1505, through the various Changes
of Government it has undergone during its Possession by the Dutch, then
by the French, and lastly, by the English, to February 1871 . • 351

CONTENTS. XV

..CHAPTER XXV.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE GEOGRAPHY OF MAURITIUS, ITS DEPEN-
DENCIES, CIYIL AND MILITARY STATISTICS, VARIOUS INDUSTRIES,
COMMERCE, ETC.

TAGK

The Geography of Mauritius — Its Physical Aspect and Climate — Its Depen-
dencies— Account of Seychelles — Internal Communication — Post Office and
Poreign Telegraph Scheme — Hackney Coaches, &c. — Defences, Military,
Police and Naval — Money, Weights and Measures — Banks— Credit
Poncier, &c. — The various Industries of Mauritius — Foreign Commerce —
Decadence of Commercial Affairs generally . . . . . . 4r_'

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE GOVERNMENT OF MAURITIUS AND ITS VARIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS,
WITH THE DIFFERENT RELIGIONS IN THE COLONY.

The Chief Ofl&cers of the Government — The various Departments — Savings'
Bank — Episcopal Church of Port Louis — Other Protestant Churches in the
Colony — Roman Catholic Sacred Edifices — Convents — Mohammedan
Mosque — Its Worship — Fast and Feast — Catholic Fete-Dieu — Procession
— Raising the Host, &c 441

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE ROYAL COLLEGE, PRIVATE AND GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS,
AND THE MUSEUM.

Schools when the Island was under French Rule — M. Boyer — Assistance
given to him— Rules and Course of Instruction in the Colonial College —
Its Use as a Hospital — Its Rehabilitation, and new Title — Pupils sent to the
Royal College from Abroad — Hurricane in 1824 — Repairing Damages — A
Pupil sent yearly to England — Disciplinary Reform by Mr. Redle — Causes
of Failure — A more practical Education required— A new Rector and new
Hopes— Schools suffering from the Fever in 1867 — English taught, but
small Results — Effect and Show too much sought ior in Education — Music
— Boys' Schools — Government Schools — Unwillingness of Coolies to be
taught — Sums collected notwithstanding Fever — Curious Notes on the
Effect of Fever on various Studies — Oriental and Creoie Characters —
Course of Studies — Number of Schools, Teachers, &c. — Visit to the
' Asile ' — State of the Place when first occupied — Its present Aspect —
Varied Races — Products of Grounds — Rules and Regulations — Dinner —
Drill — Bed-time- -First Natural History Society — Its Aims — Its Prospects
under Governors Farquhar and Hall^-The Society of 1829 — Baron Cuvier
— Foreign Correspondents and Members — Allowance for a Curator— MM.
Desjardins and d'Epinay — The Society's Name in 1847 — Exhibitions —
The one in 1860— Early Morning Scenes at an Exhibition — Ordinary
Articles exhibited — The Visitors — Collections in the Museum — Paintirigs
— M. Louis Bouton .......... 450

xvi ■ CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
IMMIGEATION.

PAGE

A new Era for English Colonies — When and How the Abolition Act was
brought in Force — Number of Slaves — Introduction of Coolies — Bad
Management — Valuation of Slaves — Ex- Apprentices — Immigration renewed
— Cholera — Agricultural Progress — Changed Condition of Malabars after
residing here — Tickets and Photographs — Camps — Fever — Death-Rate —
Report of Mr. Beyts — Cost of Establishment and other Statistics — Arrears
of Wages — Immigration Tables — Facts respecting various Castes of Indians 469

CHAPTER XXIX.

SUGAR AND THE SUGAE-CANE.

Its History — Mode of Culture — Parasites that attack it — Its Manufacture —
Amount exported and Monetary Value — Dr. leery 's Process . . . 490

APPENDIX.
Letter of Surwurrah . , 511

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIOJSTS.

--*>»-

PAGE

The Author and his Collectiok Frontispiece

View of St. Thomas To face 4

Sugar-Loaf Hlll . . . . . . . . . . .27

Table Mountain 29

Tristan d'Acunha 33

Port Louis To face 57

Statue of Labourdonnais, Place d'Armes ...... 59

Theatre, Port Louis . . . . . . . . . .61

Cathedral, Port Louis . 70

Tropical Lake Scene . ......... 76

The Races at the Champ de Mars, Port Louis . . . To face 83

Pond Scene 127

The Moharrum or Yamseh ....... To face 136

A Fern 151

A Butterfly 186

Tropical Scene 192

Lighthouse Rock, Flat Island ......... 206

The Gunners Quoin 207

Deer in the Jungle . . ...... To face 214

Butterfly . . . . . . . . . . . .217

Polyp Eggs. Different Developments of the Polyps .... 254

Submarine View ........... 272

Mud Laff 278

XVlll

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS,

page

The Ocean

. 280

Les Trois Mamelles . 7

^oface 294

The Tamaeind Mountains .......

„ 302

The Morne

. 304

The Chamarex Falls 1

^ofacc 309

Baie dtj Cap

„ 310

The Bay of Souillac

„ 317

GrRA>rD BaSSIN

„ 319

Cascade of the River Savaxe

„ 320

The Souffleub

„ 321

Le Pont Naturel

„ 322

Point au Diable

. 326

Mahebourg Barracks .

. 329

Camping

. 337

New Mapou Bay

. 344

Protestant Church

. 347

Sketch of Island

. 350

PisTACHE Nut

. 462

Creole sitting .

. 474

Indian Woman

. 475

Indian Man and Woman .

. 476

Indian Woman and Child .......

. 486

Larva and Pupa. Diseased Sugar-Cane

. 501

Cane-Plant ..........

. 503

The Author's Dog ' Quilp'

. 509

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SUB-TEOPICAL EAMBLES

CHAPTER I.

Leaving Home — Ball at Piney Point — In the Griilf Stream — St. Thomas — Santa
Cmz-T-Guadaloupe —Mr. Chaplain's Death — Barbadoes — Pernambuco — Oleuda
— Eio — Description of the City — Public Gardens — Emperor's Garden — A Night
in the Forest — Excursion up the Corcorada — Snakes — Descent — Public Squares
— Departure from Rio.

On being appointed Consul for the Island of Mauritius, a passage,
through the politeness of the Secretary of the Navy, was
offered me in the United States steamer ' Monocacy,' of 1 ,030
tons, carrying ten guns, and commanded by Captain S. P.
Carter, formerly Major-Greneral Carter of the army.

This ship was built for river service, but not being completed
before the termination of the war, she was detailed for foreign
service.

As we put in at many places on my way to my distant
appointment, I shall take a few notes at random from my
journal, which may interest those whose tastes lead them to
foreign travel, while their occupations prevent them visiting
places so very foreign.

On August 18, 1866, we weighed anchor from the navy yard
at Washington, and steamed down the Potomac, the day bright
and calm as could be wished. We passed many fortifications
on the Maryland side, now happily dismantled of their guns,
and then slowly steamed by Alexandria. Before the war this was
a thriving place of business. Now most of the stores are closed,
and grass grows in the once busy streets. This city contained
more rabid secessionists at the commencement of the Rebellion

B

2 A NEGRO BALL. [Ch. I.

than any other. It was here the rebels planted on the Marshal
House their bars and stars, which, to the annoyance of all true
and loyal men, could be plainly seen at Washington.

In the evening we anchored off Piney Point, Virginia, and I
went on shore with Captain Carter.

There was a ball at the hotel we visited, and we were
politely invited to join in the dance, but declined the honour,
and took our seats as spectators.

The band consisted of six darkies, playing a violin, cornet-a-
piston, flute, banjo, bones, and triangle. An old grey-headed
man called out the figures with most amusing gesticulations,
and contortions of face and body, as he gave out at the top of
his voice : ' Gremmen to de right, misses to de lef; go in dar
boys, the war am over, we all broders once more ! ' and then,
casting a look at me, ' Massa's from de North, good times am
coming.'

The ladies were dressed in fashionable style, very decolleUes^
and the fun went on ' fast and furious.' Soon tired of this, we
went into the bar-room, where two darkies were busily mixing
brandy smashes and mint juleps for the waiting crowds. There
were a good many boarders in the house, as the neighbourhood
supplied excellent sport for the angler, and is noted for oysters.
Most of the gentlemen were Southerners ; but when they saw
that we were United States Grovernment officers, they treated us
with great politeness, conversed freely on the late war, ad-
mitted that a great mistake had been made, and wished by-
gones to be by-gones.

In the morning we left Piney Point, steamed through
Chesapeake Bay, passed Fortress Monroe, and the Eip Eaps,
Norfolk, and Portsmouth, and entered Grosport navy yard.
Here we coaled, took in eighty more men, the balance of our
crew, and then went into the dry dock for some alterations.

The ' Monocacy ' was a new, untried vessel ; and from her
conduct hitherto she had inspired the crew with great distrust
of her sailing capacities and seaworthiness, but I confess I did
not share their fears.

On the 28th we got in our shot and shell, and on the 29th
were towed out to the Hampton Eoads, and made fast to the
Grovernment buoys, whilst the deviation of the compass
was ascertained.

Ch. I.] THE GULF STREAM. 3

I amused myself with capturing some of the pretty medusae
sailing round about the ship. Some of them I had never seen,
particularly one of a chestnut colour, the body about three
inches in diameter, with tentaculse more than a yard long, and
others of a pale blue, radiating all the hues of the solar
spectrum. I caught up some sea-weeds too, prominent among
which were the GeramiuTn rubrum, Fucus nodosus and
vesiculosus, Ulva linza, Entoromoiyha intestinalis, and
several species of Caltithamniwni, all common to our coast.

On August 30 the pilot took us out, and after passing Fort
Henry we bade adieu to the United States, and were soon under
way for the broad Atlantic.

It was with saddened feelings I looked my last on the shores
of my native land, and thought, ' It may be for years, or it
may be for ever,' I was saying adieu to home and friends.

Once out at sea, order l)egan to reign in the ship ; the men
were mustered, and articles of war read, sails unfurled, and the
monotony of ship life began.

By September 3 we were running down the Grulf Stream,
with splendid weather. This remarkable stream has its
fountain-head in the Grulf of Mexico, and its mouth in the
Arctic Sea, and has a current more rapid than the Mississippi
or Amazon.

The velocity of this current, however, varies greatly. Accord-
ing to Dana, ' Off Florida it is from three to five miles per
hour, and in the Polar current has a rate of less than one mile.
It is of great depth.'

Dr. Franklin was of opinion that the Grulf Stream was formed
by the escaping waters, forced into the Carribean Sea by the
trade winds, and that the pressure of these winds upon the
waters of this ocean forced up a head sea.

It is stated that the chemical properties, or (if the expression
be admissible) the galvanic properties, of the Gulf Stream
waters, as they come from their fountains are different, or
rather more intense than they are in sea-water generally. In
1843 the Secretary of the Navy took measures for procuring a
series of experiments and observations with regard to the
corrosive effects of sea-water upon the copper sheathing of
ships. With patience, care, and labour, these researches
were carried on for ten years, and the fact has been established

4 THE ISLAND OF ST. THOMAS. [Ch. I.

that the copper on the bottom of ships cruising in the Carri-
bean Sea and Grulf of Mexico suffers more than in any other
part of the ocean. That is, the salts in these waters create
the most powerful galvanic battery that is found in the ocean.

Professor Harvey states that the vegetation has a strong
resemblance to that of the Mediterranean. ' Sea-weeds are
borne on the Grulf Stream in such quantities, and thrown off
the inner side of the current into the great area of still water
in the centre of the Atlantic, that a part of it takes the name
of the Sea of Sargassa, from the name of a common weed of
the order Fucacece.''

On the evening of the 7th a heavy squall struck the vessel.
Fortunately we were prepared for it, and had everything
secured. It lasted all night ; the rain fell in torrents, the
thunder rolled deeply, and the vivid flashes of the lightning
were blinding.

The gale reached its height at ten o'clock a.m. on the Sth,
after which it gradually subsided, and land was sighted from
the mast-head.

It proved to be St. Thomas, one of the islands of the West
Indian group. Towards evening we were close in, but had great
difficulty in getting a pilot, and it was ten o'clock at night be-
fore we were safely anchored.

The town of St. Thomas, which is the capital, is prettily
situated at the base of a lofty ridge of mountains, which extends
the whole length of the island, some of whose highest peaks
rise to the altitude of 1,700 feet.

The island is about twelve miles long by three or four broad.
It belongs to Denmark, is a free port, and has a larger commerce
than any other West Indian island. It is the general rendez-
vous of our men-of-war, which have a special anchorage ; there
is also a government coal depot there. It has a dry dock, but
no iron-foundries, so that no metal work for shipping can be
repaired.

On Sunday I attended the Episcopalian Church, where the
minister gave a very impressive sermon from the second verse
of the third chapter of St. James' Epistle. The principal
thoroughfare of St. Thomas is King Street, containing English,
French, and American stores for merchandise. I found everything
at least thirty per cent, cheaper than in the United States.

Ch. I.J BLUE BEARD CASTLE. 5

The bay of St. Thomas is a fine one, open to the south, and
can be entered at any time with the prevailing trade winds, and
is perfectly safe except in hurricane months. Near the landing-
is a water-battery, and behind it an old Dutch fortification
which commands the harbour, called Christian's Fort.

It is very ancient. Three or four hundred soldiers are
stationed there, and it is a residence of the Grovernor. From a
high hill at the back of the town, called French Hill, which I
climbed, I had a tine view of the whole place.

The ex-President and Greneral-in-chief of Mexico, Santa Anna,
has taken up his quarters in a fine house on this hill.

On the spm- of a mountain called Kiari is a remarkable stone
tower named Blue Beard Castle, an antique- looking pile. It is
240 feet above the level of the sea, and, with the house adjoin-
ing, was purchased some years ago. It was in a sad state of
dilapidation ; but the owner, thinking it would make a good
look-out or summer-house, put it in repair.

On excavating the earth, he found the tower had once been
fortified, and eight or ten guns were dug out of the ruins. He
had them cleaned, and mounted on earthworks round the
tower.

It is supposed that it was built by the pirates and freebooters
of the last century, as a stronghold in case of attack. It is
well known that within the recollection of this generation they
had places of refuge in the mountains.

Fruits and vegetables are exposed for sale under the trees in
the square in King Street, and considering they are nearly all
raised in Santa Cruz, at a distance of thirty-eight miles, all were
very moderate in price.

I should say that, as fish abound on this coast, this was a
capital place for a student of ichthyology.

I added to my collection som.e beautiful sea-weeds, from the
tide-pools, to which the well-known lines of the poet beginning
with ' full many a gem ' apply admirably. Large piles of king-
fish, from five to twenty pounds weight, are constantly for sale
as well as the angel-fish {Helicanthus ciliaris), and quantities
of snappers and grunts. There were the peculiarly-formed cow-
fish {Ostracion sex cornutus), the peacock-fish {Gheitodon
vulgaris)^ zebra- fish (Eavaretas), and the hog-fish — which in
spite of its name is one of the most graceful of fish in the water.

6 SANTA CRUZ. [Ch. I.

and capital for eating too — and, in short, a variety too numerous
to mention.

We left St. Thomas, on December 14, for Santa Cruz, and
let go our anchor in the harbour of Frederickstadt in the
evening.

The singular clearness of the water here is very remarkable.
We lay in a depth of thirty feet, yet we could distinctly see the
corals and gorgonas at the bottom. Sharks abound ; and a story
was told us of an incident that occurred a few days before our
arrival, of a Danish seaman, who was missing for two days ; and
a fisherman capturing one of these monsters, found portions of
a human body in it, still undigested, and part of a shirt with
the man's name on it. It was supposed he had fallen overboard,
and been instantly devoured.

I called on the consul, Mr. Moore, and afterwards strolled
about the place, which has a Spanish look, and reminded me of
Vigo, in Spain.

Santa Cruz is called the garden of the West Indies. Most of
the houses are of one storey, with prettily laid out grounds
round them, and when viewed at a distance the island has the
appearance of a highly- cultivated garden.

It contains about 1 2,000 inhabitants ; exports sugar, mo-
lasses, rum and cotton, and supplies steamers with firewood.
It is unfortunately subject to frequent droughts (possibly
caused by the cutting down of the forests), and is said to be
very unhealthy for strangers. I noticed in the churchyard that
a large percentage of the deaths were caused by yellow fever, as
incribed on the tombstones.

On the 17th we left Santa Cruz, and on the 18th were close to
Basseterre, on the south-west of the island of Guadaloupe, and
reached Point Petre that night.

The upper part of the town is clean and well paved, and
appears to have very comfortable buildings. All the lower
parts reek in squalor and filth, and I do not wonder at the
cholera having made such frightful ravages there. In 1865 it
carried off 25,000 victims. The heat was most oppressive at
this time ; and the volcano, the Souffriere, was emitting flames
and thick volumes of smoke.

The fish- market is a curious establishment. The vendors
are negro women, who sit behind a grating of large iron bars

Ch. I.] AN EARTHQUAKE. 7

under a tin roof. Crowds of whites and negroes are elbowing
each other, and making a Babel of noise to get at the bars. A
particular fish is pointed out by the purchaser, when it is
weighed and priced, but never passed through till paid for.
Exorbitant prices were the rule. I chose a Grrauper of about two
pounds weight, and they asked me two dollars and a half for it.

The Governor and Commander-in-chief of the military forces
visited us on board, themselves and suite in full uniform ;
the former was certainly one of the handsomest men I ever
saw.

A terrible earthquake occurred here in 1843. After the
disaster that spread ruin on all sides, fire, the constant ally of
earthquakes, broke out and completed the work of destruction.
A shocking incident was related to me. A young girl rushed
out of her father's house to save herself, when some timbers
from a ruined building fell on her, and held her firmly to the
spot by the lower extremities. She called loudly for help ; and
on a soldier trying to rescue her, and finding his efforts vain,
she begged of him to cut off her legs so as to save her from
the fire, which was advancing with giant strides. He drew his
sword to comply, but his heart failed him and he fled, and in a
few minutes the poor girl was consumed ; 4,000 bodies were
dug out of the ruins. Famine followed, and the survivors were
reduced to eat the canes in the fields for sustenance. I was
informed that one part of the harbour of Point Petre, which
before this event was capable of admitting ships of the heaviest
burden, became completely choked up with rocks, forced up
from the bottom of the sea.

I intended visiting the crater, which is about fifteen miles
distant from the harbour, but the weather was too sultry to
venture on so much exertion ; so went on shore in the evening
to take a quiet walk with Mr. Chaplain, the chief ofl&cer of
the ' Monocacy ; ' but he was suddenly taken so ill that we
were obliged to return.

On the 22nd we steamed out of Point Petre bay, and ran
along the coast, which looked beautiful with its fields of waving
canes ; and we found the change of temperature most delightful
as we got out into the broad ocean, after being nearly roasted
at Guadaloupe.

It was decided to run down to Pernambuco, a distance of

8 FUNERAL A T SEA. [Ch. I.

2,500 miles ; but the next day Mr. Chaplain was worse. The
doctor asked me to visit him, and when we entered his room
he was taken with a severe fit. He then became speechless,
and though every care was bestowed that medical aid could give,
he soon breathed his last. His body was taken on deck, and a
place was prepared for it abaft the starboard wheel. It was
placed on a platform shi'ouded with the American flag, and his
sword laid by his side.

Our colours were hoisted half-mast, and the ship's course
changed to Barbadoes, where we soon arrived, and anchored at
Bridgetown, the capital.

The news of the death spread like wildfire over the ship :
the men spoke of it in hm-ried whispers. They could hardly
believe that he who had so lately issued his orders in a stentorian
voice from the deck should now be lying on it, silent for ever ;
that the man who had so gallantly defended his country against
rebellion should be now powerless, conquered by a mightier
hand. Officers and men were deeply affected ; not a smile was
on the lips of any of that rough crew. Many had been Mr.
Chaplain's comrades in arms during the late war, and had
witnessed his daring acts of bravery, and I can truly say he was
most sincerely regretted. As soon as we arrived at Bridgetown,
preparations were made for the funeral. A plain coffin, covered
with blue cloth, received the remains, dressed in full uniform.
A boat from H.B.M. frigate ' Buzzard,' with officers and men,
came alongside to pay respect to the dead. After a short funeral
service the coffin was lowered into the ship's launch, attended by
the deceased's coxswain and boat's crew. It was towed by the
cutter, rowed with muffled oars, the ensign trailing in the
water, and followed by all our boats and those of the ' Buzzard.'
Not a word was spoken, the rattling of the muskets of the
marines, as they landed, alone breaking the silence. The coffin
was placed on a richly-plumed hearse, and the marines flanked
it, trailing their muskets. Mr. Chaplain's sword and epaulettes,
on a cushion, were borne after it by his coxswain.

TheGrovernor in his carriage, the Commander of the ' Buzzard,'
and all the officers of both ships, with the principal Americans
and English of the place, followed. The cortege passed slowly
through the town to St. Leonard's, where the impressive service
of the Episcopal church was' read, and a short address was given

Ch. L] BARBADOES. 9

on the uncertainty of human life, especially to a soldier or
sailor, and the necessity of ever being prepared to meet death.
On arriving at the cemetery, the coffin was placed in a leaden
one, and as it was lowered to its last resting-place, the marines
fired a salute, which the frigate answered with minute-guns.
When the minister read the solemn words, ' Dust to dust,' each
one threw a spray of green leaves into the grave, as he bid
adieu to the friend to be left behind buried in a strange land,
far from his home and kindred.

Barbadoes is an important part of the British West Indian
possessions. The island is twenty miles long and twelve broad,
and contains about 136,000 inhabitants. Like most other
sugar-planting countries, the greater part of the timber has
been cut down to make way for the canes. There is little high
land, but it gradually declines from the centre to the coast.
The highest point is Mount Willoughby, and that is only 1,000
feet above sea level. There is little indication of volcanic
action. In the southern parts of the island the land rises in
terraces, one above the other. The plains are highly cultivated,
but the northern side has a very broken surface, and is m.uch
less fertile.

Considerable quantities of petroleum, which is used instead
of pitch, and serves for lamp oil, are found here. There is also
a burning spring similar to the Retsamola, in the Apennines.

The climate of Barbadoes is in general healthy, is less humid
in consequence of the light calcareous soil rapidly absorbing
the rain, and enjoys a greater immunity from epidemic diseases
than the other West Indian islands. Tornadoes and hurricanes
which cause great damage to the shipping, are frequent during
the months of August, September, and October. Bridge-
town, the capital, is about two miles in extent. It contains
good roads and some fine buildings, and in the principal square
is a statue of Lord Nelson. On the 2oth we weighed anchor,
and again proceeded on our way to Pernambuco. Little
occurred on our voyage, except a court martial on two men for
getting drunk ; a sham fight ; a temporary alarm of fire, happily
quickly allayed ; and an excitement from an iron pin in the
rudder getting loose ; all of which, though but little to relate,
caused breaks in our monotonous life at sea.

When still far from our port of destination it was found that

lo CAPE ST. ROQUE. [Ch. I.

we had only five days' coal, and there was a question of our
putting back to Ceara ; as we were not only dependent on coal
for steaming, but for the condenser, which supplied the whole
crew with water for drinking. We fell in with the Brazilian
packet ' Percemuga,' just from Pernambuco, with a pilot on
board, whom the captain asked if we would take. We sent a
boat for him, and were glad of his services, particularly as he
spoke English well.

As we approached Cape St. Eoque, the waves were dashing
furiously over an almost perpendicular rock, apparently of red
clay formation. The shore in the distance looked like glittering
heaps of white sand. We were close enough to see the houses,
and fine groves of cocoa-nut trees.

Close to the cape I observed a church, which the pilot
told me was that of ' Nossa Senhora dos Navigatos.' In most
Portuguese seaports, chapels, or niches enclosing an image of
the Virgin, are built on the shore, where those about to embark
pray for a prosperous voyage, while the friends and relatives
offer up prayers for their safe return.

Numbers of natives on janguardas were fishing on the coral
reefs ; some of these are large and carry a sail ; others so small
that only one man can sit on them. As the fellows paddle
along some distance from the shore, it seemed as if half their
bodies were submerged, and it was only as the frail crafts rose
on the waves that it could be seen they were not floating on
the water. These janguardas are formed of four or more logs
of wood bound together, having a mast and large awkward-
looking sail. They have no sides, so that every wave can
break over them, yet the fishermen go a long distance from land
on them.

All along the coast are fish pounds, similar to those I had seen
in Algarve (Portugal). They are circular enclosures, which
admit the fish at high water. As the tide recedes, the fish
swim into the deeper water in the centre. The fishermen at low
water go on their janguardas, and take their prey in a dip-net
and carry them alive to the markets, in boxes made for the
purpose, which they tow astern of their frail vessels.

Here we began to notice the splendour of the Southern con-
stellations. Venus, from her great brilliancy in these latitudes,
especially attracted our attention.

Ch. I.] COCOA-NUT ISLAND, n

On October 8 we arrived off the port of Pernambuco ; but
the pilot we had taken out at sea was not allowed to bring the
ship into harbour, as there was a government officer for that
express purpose ; so we had to remain outside, pitching and
rolling about in a heavy swell. Early in the morning the
pilot brought us in, and we dropped anchor under the reefs.

The port contains a sort of natural breakwater, running in
a straight line, for nearly three-quarters of a mile, directly in
front of the city. This appears to be of tertiary formation, and
lies just above the surface of the water. The Portuguese have
built a strong brick wall on this reef, to protect it from the
violence of the waves.

A large hulk neatly painted is moored in the harbour, and
serves as a school-ship for the Brazilian navy. The reefs of
Pernambuco run parallel to the shore, at about 800 yards dis-
tance, for many miles.

A small octagonal tower called the Tour de Picas, erected on
the shore, mounts several guns. On the opposite shore is an old
fort called Castel de Bruno, built in 1640, and with the Tour de
Picas protects the harbour, as the channel is very narrow here.

Vessels drawing more than 16 or 17 feet of water are
obliged to anchor outside, but to those that can enter Per-
nambuco offers a safe and excellent harbour. At its entrance,
on the eastern side of the reef, is a fine lighthouse, which ex-
hibits three distinct lights from sunset to sunrise. There are
two white and one red, and these make a complete revolution
every ten minutes, and are visible from twelve to fifteen miles
at sea.

To the south of Pernambuco lies Cocoa-nut Island, that has
acquired a sort of notoriety from two hundred and fifty
American seamen having for some time resided there. Maffit
the pirate, after destroying and plundering several unarmed
American vessels, finding their crews getting troublesome on his
hands, compelled a French trader to take them into Pernambuco,
and hand them over to our consul, Mr. Adamson, who took
charge of them and placed them on this island until arrange-
ments could be made to send them home.

This is one of the most important provinces in the Brazils,
second only to Eio and Bahia, and with proper care would yield
immensely ; but from the careless way in which everything is

12 PERNAMBUCO, [Ch. I.

done, and its agriculture in as backward a state, scarcely enough
is raised for the consumption of the people.

It contains 1,180,000 inhabitants, 250,000 of whom are
slaves employed on the sugar and coffee plantations. In the
western part the country people grow a coarse kind of sugar
{ Mandixa farinhio) and vegetables. It is said to be celebrated
for a fine-flavoured grape, highly prized by the Brazilians.

The city of Pernambuco is divided into three districts, called
San Pedro de Gronsalvo or Recife, Boa Vista, and San Antonio.

The principal buildings are seventeen Catholic churches, one
English Episcopal church, two monasteries, three asylums for
girls, six hospitals, a theatre, custom-house, dockyard, arsenal,
marine and military barracks, with a Lyceum, two Latin and
seventy-five primary schools. There are three newspapers
issued daily, two of them in Portuguese and one in English,
giving the general news of the day, and these as far as I could
judge were very ably conducted.

The appearance of Pernambuco from the sea is not attrac-
tive ; and, as a great part of it is built on low flat land, little of
the city is visible. The large white tower of the arsenal on
the Prayos, with some of the highest buildings, are first seen ;
but from the waves dashing over the reef and sending up
showers of spray, their foundations are hidden, and they seem
to rise from the waters.

I called on Mr. Adamson, our consul, and had a very pleasant
hour's chat with him.

Captain Carter and myself attended the opening of the
Exhibition by Dom Jose Perreira, and were introduced to the
President, who received us courteously.

The address was well conceived, giving a general review of
the improvements made in the province during the past year,
and comparing them with those of former years. He then
referred to the progress made in the United States in arts and
sciences, the wonderful strides in agriculture, and the large
amount of cereals we produce. Also to the great inventive
genius of America, mentioning the singular fact that, during
the late rebellion, in the short space of three or four
years, we had completely revolutionised modern warfare !
Our monitors, our great guns, our merchant ships and
frigates, and our iron hearts and hands to man them, all were

Ch I.] A BRAZILIAN EXHIBITION. 13

descanted on. I listened for more than an hour, in an atmo-
sphere of 90° Fahrenheit, and was glad to be shown to the
exhibition-rooms, where all the products of the country were
collected. The President offering his arm to Mrs. Adamson, our
consul's wife, we went down to the rooms, the band playing Dom
Pedro's march.

The first thing that attracted our attention was a large case
of elegant vestments which were wrought in gold and silver
thread, probably for the clergy of the district, and a flag of
silk richly embroidered, bearing the arms of Brazil in its centre.
There were perfect models of ships, brigs, steamers, &c., made
by the apprentices of the marine arsenal, and very creditably
done. In one compartment were all the woods of the province,
some very beautiful ; but I was informed that they had never
been introduced as articles of commerce. I tasted some excel-
lent wine from the fruit of the cashew, which the manufacturer
told me would be made in such quantities the following year as
to yield sufficient for shipment. There were also fine samples
of native oils and vinegars. The cereals were prominent —
abundant and of good quality. There were fifty-two kinds of
beans, several quite new to me. There were also very fair
native paintings. On the whole it was a creditable ex-
hibition, and pleased us greatly, as many articles were quite
equal to European manufacture. Our time and the heat did
not allow us to examine everything very closely, and we were
not sorry to get into the fresh air.

The beautiful town of Olenda is about two miles from Per-
nambuco, and is situated on the sides of a very high hill, the
summit of which is crowned by a large convent. For many
years Olenda was the capital of the province, but, owing to its
distance from the harbour rendering it unfavourable for com-
merce, the town of Eecife has taken the preference. The pretty
Lauristinus, or a plant very closely resembling it, flourishes
here, and forms a beautiful contrast with the dusky olive and
the graceful palm and cocoa-nut trees. The view from the
hill is magnificent, looking down into the valley below and
over the city of Pernambuco, which can be seen above the fine
groves of mangoes and other trees.

The captain and I visited the monastery, and were politely
and hospitably received by the Bishop.

H A FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. [Ch. I.

A sumptuous repast was spread for us, and we were shown over
the building, which is kept in fine order. There are two large
organs in the chapel, and the seats and stands in the gallery, where
the monks of old used to chant their services, are beautifully carved.

In Dom Pedro's time, when the monasteries were suppressed,
the clcck-work attached to the chimes in the tower was
destroyed, the bells were melted, and the machinery all broken
up, and this a priest pointed out to me lying on the floor, and
sighed sadly as he told of its departed glories. It is still an
open question whether the breaking-up of these monastic
institutions did not do more harm to the labouring classes
than the suppression of a few abuses did good.

I must not forget the Foundling Hospital, which stands at a
little distance from the monastery. Near the door in a recess
is a swinging cradle, with a bell-rope attached. When a
child is brought, it is laid in the cradle, and the bell is rung.
Silently the cradle is turned, and the child taken out, when a
number is placed on its neck, and a corresponding one put into
the empty cradle, as it swings back into its place. This is to
enable the child to be identified at any future period. No one
is visible, no question is asked ; nothing is ever known of the
anguish of those who thus leave their children to strangers'
care. How many aching hearts may have stood beside that
cradle, as the little one has been laid within, to save it from
shame, starvation, or perhaps death ; for infanticide was preva-
lent before the foundation of this asylum.

We did not enter, but I could see the nurses with their little
charges on the lawn in front of the place, which was very quiet,
and in a very wholesome condition.

Near this is a large convent, where young ladies of the best
families are sent to be educated ; and a fair proportion of
whom become so in love with convent life as to refuse to leave
it, and take the veil.

The luxuriance of the vegetation in the whole province of
Pernambuco is remarkable even for the tropics. I will not
attempt to describe what has been so often done by abler pens
than mine. It would be but a repetition of magnificent trees
covered with wild lianes loaded with blossom, orchids which
imitate insects and moths, birds of the brightest hues, and the
oppressive fragrance of a tropical forest.

Ch. I.] RIO. 15

Some of the streets of Pernambuco are wide and spacious,
containing handsome buildings ; but even the narrow streets
were kept very clean, though I should mention I did not see it
in the rainy season.

The Palace a Campo stands near the theatre, and is a fine
well-arranged building, with large gardens attached, filled with
rare and beautiful exotic plants. The Palace Square seemed,
from its position, a very desirable place of residence.

The principal business part of the city is built on an island,
and there is communication with the mainland by five large,
well-built biidges. One of them is a massive iron structure,
built by an English engineer.

October 17 we left Pernambuco, with a fair wind, for Eio,
where we arrived on the 23rd. As we entered the harbour we
found the U.S.S. flagship ' Brooklyn,' and fired a salute to the
admiral of thirteen guns, which was responded to, and her brass
band favoured us with ' Hail Columbia ' as we passed her.

Soon after anchoring. Captain Carter went on board the
• Brooklyn,' and word was then sent to the ' Monocacy ' to fire
a salute of eighty-six guns to the Brazilian, Spanish,
Portuguese, British, and French vessels of war then in the
harbour. It was promptly returned from all their iron mouths,
as well as from the Brazilian forts, so that our advent made
some stir in the place.

As you enter Eio harbour, the scenery is grand and
imposing. The Sugarloaf and Corcovada Mountains, with their
bold precipitous cliffs, frown down upon you ; the Organ
Mountains lie in the distance, and a long range of hills borders
the coast. The harbour is well fortified and studded with
picturesque islands.

When we went ashore we landed at the Palace Square, where
is the residence of the Emperor of the Brazils. There was a
regiment of soldiers parading in it before embarkation for
Paraguay, and such a motley set I never saw before. The
officers wore brilliant uniforms, and cocked hats bedizened with
gold lace and flaunting plumes.

Brazil was then at war with Paraguay, with the view of a
complete destruction of the sovereignty, independency, and
integrity of that country. For this purpose it had formed a
secret alliance with the governments of Buenos Ayres and

C

i6 THE BRAZILIANS. [Ch. I.

Uruguay. This alliance becoming' known, excited great
indignation throughout the remaining republics of South
America.

Soldiers were everywhere recruiting in the streets, as large
bounties were offered to such as would fill up the decimated
ranks.

The Brazilians consider themselves superior to the Portu-
guese ; but in my opinion they have sadly degenerated from the
parent stock, as the contrast between the Cascadores of
Portugal and the flower of the Brazilian army is very great.
Then again, the manners and customs are entirely different,
and the language greatly corrupted, as I did not hear pure
Portuguese spoken in any part of the Brazils.

The city of Eio was clean, and the sanitary laws are
excellent, and seem rigidly executed. Just beyond the Palace
Square there is an American restaurant, where all the fancy
drinks, from an ' Eye-opener ' to a Champagne ' corpse-reviver,'
can be procured from sunrise to sunrise.

The principal business street of the city is the Eua d'Ouvidor.
There you can purchase the choicest and richest merchandise
of the world. The native costume is now rarely seen in Eio, as
both ladies and gentlemen have gone into the extreme of
French fashion ; and Parisian milliners, tailors, barbers, &c.,
occupy the principal shops of the Eua d'Ouvidor. The
diamond merchants, too, have their stores here ; and, judging
from the fondness of all classes for jewellery, I should think
there was a flourishing trade.

There are two theatres, and in one of them I saw the Barbe
Bleu performed very creditably by a French troupe.

Several daily papers are published, but education does not
seem to progress rapidly under the present government.

The Misericordia Hospital is one of the finest and best con-
ducted in the world. It is under the management of a com-
pany, and the nurses are the Soeurs de GharitL

It contains 1,500 clean and comfortable-looking beds, while
the floors of boxwood, brightly polished, give a cool aspect that
must be refreshing to a sick man in a tropical climate.

There are many hotels, some of them well kept up, and with
good tables, at reasonable prices. Taken altogether, Eio is as
cheap a place as one could wish. The people are polite and

Ch. I.] RIO: HOSPITAL AND PARK. 17

hospitable to foreigners, and at the time we visited it the city
was very healthy.

Most of the merchants doing business in the city have their
dwellings in the suburbs. Eio boasts of two public gardens,
one called the ' Botanical or Emperor's Grarden,' about eight
miles from it, and the other the ' Passeio Publico,' within the
city. The latter is enclosed by a handsome iron railing on the
W. and N. ; on the S. by a high wall ; and the east is built up
to form an esplanade, looking over the sea. As you enter the
gardens through a large gateway facing the street, the stranger's
eye is struck with the fine bronze statues, on pedestals of the
same material, on each side of the entrance. Passing down the
main avenue, shaded by gigantic palms, to our surprise we came
upon a number of American larch, spruce, and arbor-vitas,
all thriving well.

There is a winding stream through the grounds, with pretty
little islands formed in it, and on its waters floated numbers of
aquatic plants brought from the mighty Amazon.

Black and white swans, native wild ducks, gulls, boobies,
cranes, the white egret, and the scarlet ibis, all are to be seen
about the grass near the water, or under the trees planted there
to give them shade from the fierce heat of the tropical sun. In
the stream there were two manittas, or sea-cows. These huge
monsters were quite tame, and either lay basking in the sun, or
in the shallow parts of the water, just showing their noses above
the surface. It is very rare to see them in confinement ; but
these appeared quite happy, and were on the best terms with
their feathered comrades, and followed the black swans about
everywhere.

As we crossed the stream over a little bridge, we saw a flight
of steps opposite to us leading to the esplanade, and at the
foot of them were two cast-iron alligators, partially hidden by
artificial rock-work, covered with ferns and creeping plants.
From the mouths of these monsters flow streams of clear water,
which fall into a large basin, wherein I found some interesting-
plants ; amongst others, some Tetraspora, Ulvacece, two species
of Confei^vce, &c. &c. At the top of the steps is a statue of
Cupid, with a flask in his hand, out of which he incessantly pours
deliciously cool water, that we found most grateful, as the day
was hot, and we were tired with our long ramble. The view

i8 JACK-FRUIT. [Ch. I.

from the esplanade looking over the bay, is very fine. You see
in the foreground the two forts that defend the harbour ; the
pretty little church to ' Nossa Senhora dos Navigatos,' on the
island mountain, and the buildings occupied by the pupils of
the Naval Academy ; and in the distance the village of St.
Domingo, and the beautiful mountains of Jurajuba. A good
refreshment-room is in this garden, provided with seats and
tables under the shade of some beautiful trees, and where we
tasted the native ale, which we found excellent. On leaving I
saw the celebrated Vanilla-bean plant twining round the trunks
of large trees, to which it clings like ivy, by very strong tendrils
that shoot from the joints, and almost bury themselves like
roots in the bark of the supporting tree. The Passeio Publico
is quite a fashionable promenade in the warm summer evenings.

We visited St. Domingo, taking the ferry-boat, and landing at
the floating-bridge, which is similar in construction to that at
Fulton Ferry, in Brooklyn, New York.

In the principal square sat numbers of coloured women, with
all the fruits of the season spread out on the ground before them
for sale. I observed for the first time the singular Jack-fruit,
Artocarpus integrifolia. We purchased one, but did not find it
at all to our taste, though highly esteemed by the Brazilians.
The large seeds are the best part of it. I have since often eaten
them cooked, and liked them. The fruit, when cut, we could
not be tempted to eat, though assured it was very nice. Being-
blessed with an acute scent, we could not get over its disgusting-
smell of putrid meat ; and, strange to say, the meat-fly hovers
round it, just as if it were a piece of carrion.

The tree is very handsome, and at a little distance resembles
the magnolia ; but the leaf is darker, and its foliage is so dense
as to be impervious to the sun. The monster fruit grows on a
very short stem, and hangs from the trunk of the tree. I have
seen it more than two feet long, and twelve to sixteen inches in
diameter.

After examining all the different fruits, we strolled through
the streets, and were greatly delighted at the taste displayed in
the residences and the fine gardens attached to them. We saw
oranges and tanjarines growing everywhere, and for the first
time the mammae apple (Papaya edulis). The tree grows
from ten to fifteen feet high, and looks not unlike the foliage

Ch. I.] JURAJUBA. 19

of the castor-oil nut-tree, except that the leaves are of a thinner
texture, and grow in a large graceful tuft at the top of the
trunk, and the fruit hangs just under the crown. Many of these
exceed a pound in weight, and when ripe are of a bright yellow,
filled with brownish seeds in a pulpy bed. The taste is not un-
pleasant when eaten, but leaves a peppery flavour.

The Prayos seems to be a favourite walk of the Brazilian
ladies, here still dressed in the graceful Spanish costume, with
veils on their heads. In every case they were accompanied by
slaves, either black or yellow, it not being etiquette for a lady
to appear unattended by one or more. The country people were
very polite, and willingly answered questions, and gave me any
information I required.

From the Prayos I went to Jurajuba, a small place near
Santa Cruz, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, who supply the
markets at Eio. There is little variety of fish in the harbour.
The principal are graupers, black and blue fish, and rays ; one of
the latter I saw caught, was at least twenty feet across his fins.
There are large quantities of a small fish they call a sardine,
very like the mossbunkers, and most unlike the sardine of the
Mediterranean. They are certainly the best flavoured fish
brought to market. The prawns of Eio are in abundance, and
are probably the finest in the world. There are great numbers
of edible crabs? which are nearly all sold by Chinese, who hawk
them about in large baskets slung on their shoulders.

After passing through Jurajuba, I shaped my course up the
mountain, towards a small opening in the woods. Bright
coloured butterflies fluttered across my path, and now and then
a gorgeous-plumaged bird would start up before me, and, utter-
ing a soft plaintive note, disappear in the dense foliage.

The place was covered with noble palms, mangoes, and
flowering shrubs. I walked for some distance in a southerly
direction, but at length found it impossible to penetrate deeper
through the dense underbrush. The vines and creepers were so
thickly intertwined, I was obliged to retrace my steps. I col-
lected a good many rare botanical specimens, and got a few
snakes and lizards, which abound here, the former are most of
them poisonous.

As night was approaching, I hastened on in hopes of reaching
St. Domingo ; but, after walking two or three miles, I found I

20 LOST IN THE JUNGLE. [Ch. II

had lost my way. The sun was fast sinking in the west ; and
the unpleasant idea of having to spend a night alone in a
Brazilian forest was beginning to force itself on me.

As I had a Colt's revolver and a large knife in my girdle, I
began seriously to contemplate taking up my quarters in a tree,
should I not succeed in finding an opening. I walked on for
about half an hour unsuccessfully, and as it was then quite
dark, had just decided on going to roost, when I heard the voice
of a muleteer singing to his mules in the distance. I lost no
time in shouting at the top of my voice, and to my great joy
was answered, and he soon came to my rescue. He told me I was
ten or twelve miles from St. Domingo ; that he was a slave
going to market to sell fruit for his master ; and that if I would
accompany him, he would guide me. He was astonished to find
I could speak his language, and still more that I was foolish
enough to penetrate the jungle solus. The stories he told me
of the ounce {Felis onca) were enough to frighten anyone,
but fortunately I knew them to be mostly imaginary. Both
the ounce and boa constrictor are common in Brazil, but rarely
seen in this neighboiu-hood.

The only dreaded thing I met with was the terrible snake,
the Jararaca {Bothrops Neuwiedia\ which is a near relation
to the rattlesnake, and which abounds on the grassy slopes. It
makes a whistling noise as you approach it, and elevates its
body like a cobra. Scarcely a clump of bamboos is without
one of these reptiles, the bite of which is certain death. It is
generally most prudent to get out of their way ; but the sight
of a snake always arouses my organ of combativeness, and I
kill it whenever I can get a chance to do so.

My companion was very chatty, and told me no end of
marvels. Amongst others, he said that when he first heard my
voice he tied his mules high up the mountain, their panniers
laden with fruit and vegetables, as he was sure no one would
molest them there. I was curious to know the reason of this
perfect security ; so he told me it was because ' They were so
near heaven,' and added, as a corroboration, that a ' man who was
killed up there by an ounce went straight up to heaven, as
purgatory was many hundred feet below him ! '

We took a narrow footpath on our descent into the valley,
which was a short cut, luckily well known to the man, for it
was so dark I was obliged to keep close to the mules.

Ch. I.] PREPARATIONS. 21

Being anxious to get back, I urged him on, and we got to
St. Domingo at three o'clock in the morning ; when there I at
once put off in a boat for the ' Monocacy,' where my friends
were beginning to think I was lost.

In spite of my exploring difficulties, I had been so charmed
with what I had seen, that I determined to pay another visit to
the Brazilian forests.

I had been constantly asked if I had ascended the Corcovada ;
and as I wished very much to do so, I tried to get up a party
from the ship to accompany me, but unsuccessfully ; so made
up my mind the following Monday to be up early, and off to
the mountain.

Before that time, however, the Eev. Mr. Schneider, the
American missionary there, offered to accompany me, and re-
quested me to call for him very early. I did so, but the Fates
were against me ; his wife was so ill that he could not leave
her. Nothing daunted, I still resolved to go on alone ; par-
ticularly as he assured me it was perfectly safe to do so, and
gave me directions for the ascent.

In an hour's time I was fairly on my way up, my vasculum
strapped on my back, and a good stout hickory stick to help
me on. The road was good enough for carriages to drive along
as far as the great aqueduct, which is supplied from a reservoir
up the mountain, and carries in a sufficient stream of water for
the whole of Eio.

I passed many gentlemen's residences, most of them under
preparation for the reception of their owners during the
summer months ; the fine gardens attached to each were
being put in order. Along the aqueduct were a great variety
of herbaceous plants, ferns, and mosses. The tree-fern
{Tricho-pteris excelsa) is found at this level, and everyone of
the gigantic forest trees was covered from root to branch with
orchideae, cacti, and twining plants. The road crossed deep
ravines over bridges. In their dark recesses the sun never
shines, and the fronds of the ferns were some of them fifteen
feet long by three or four broad. The luxuriance of these
cryptogams tempted me out of my path ; and I was climbing
over a wall near a bridge in order to descend, when I heard a
voice shouting to me not to venture, as it was full of snakes
and other slimy monsters. I found my informant was a

22 ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADA. [Ch. I.

coloured man, lying under the shade of some banana trees. He
was going up the mountain with a basket of provisions for the
labourers working on the road. He told me no one ever dared
descend into these ravines on account of the venomous snakes.
He said it was common to meet the boa constrictor, but it was
only the jararaca he feared.

Whilst speaking, one glided along the road, and made the
peculiar whistling noise that warns of its approach. My com-
panion at once crossed himself and began reciting his prayers,
while I killed the reptile and popped him into my bottle.

The road is good as far as the reservoir, which is a fine piece
of work of dressed granite, built on the side of the mountain.
The main aqueduct is covered in with masonry till it reaches
the city, a distance of some miles. After refreshing myself, I
took leave of the. old man, striking into a narrow winding path,
which in some places is only cut out of the side of the mountain,
and is there very steep and dangerous.

By eleven o'clock I arrived at the upper water-works, about
1,800 feet above sea-level. So circuitous had been my route,
I found I had travelled about fourteen miles by my pedometer.
At this height ther«e are a few small huts built, one of them
occupied by a Portuguese naturalist, who had charge of the
works.

He furnished me with refreshments ; and while I was resting
myself, a group of seven or eight darkies made their appear-
ance, who had been engaged all the morning in removing a
large stone which had fallen in and impeded the water-course.
They were all slaves, but the most jovial set I had ever met
with. Never did the fetters of slavery sit lighter on any of the
descendants of Ham. After eating some lumps of brown bread
and salt fish, and washing it down with Canna aguardienta,
they began singing and dancing, strange to say to the tune of
' Ole Dan Tucker.' An old grey-headed fellow kept time, by
tapping on the end of a barrel with two sticks. They had the
double-shuffle, all-hands-round, plantation dance, and many
others. Finally, one of them sung a plaintive air about Massa
Linkum, and they all appeared well acquainted with the tragic
fate of him whom they called the ' father of the black man,'
and I saw his portrait everywhere.

I was much amused with these coloured ' children of a

Ch. I.] THE TOP OF THE PEAK, . 23

larger growth,' and passed on, earning their good wishes by
giving a few patacaos to each, and entreaties to the Virgin to
protect me; but they all advised me to keep out of the
jungle. Up I went, and the higher I got the more bewilder-
ingly lovely became the scene. I caught a view of the ocean
from the SW. side, but soon lost it in the difficulties of the
ascent. I reached the summit by one o'clock, and was richly
repaid for the toilsome journey. The government had erected
a sort of look-out and telegraphic establishment, with seats for
visitors to rest themselves, but it had been abandoned for some
years.

The peak rises to about 2,600 feet, and on its eastern face
nearly two-thirds of it is a perpendicular precipice. Just as I
arrived at the top, the men-of-war in the harbour were firing a
salute, and the effect was very singular as the sound struck the
bold cliffs of the mountain. The panoramic view obtained at
this point is magnificent.

Looking down on the bay, studded with its tree-covered
islands, the outlines of the distant mountain ranges, the
ocean dotted here and there with merchant-ships making for
the port ; the lofty peaks of Tijuco and Gavea, with their
precipitous sides clothed with mighty forests ; the plantations
of coffee, oranges, and mandiocca in the valleys ; altogether
made a scene never to be effaced from my memory.

The trees at the foot of the mountain are very large,
but the vegetable growth sensibly lessens towards the summit.

I know not how long I should have gazed on the view before
me, had I not been unpleasantly roused from my reverie by
finding I had seated myself in such close proximity to a small
grey snake, coiled up, that I could have touched it with my
hand. I killed it with a single blow of my stick, and believe
the snake was a very poisonous one.

I began to descend, collecting ferns, insects, and reptiles, till
my vasculum and bottles were all full.

When I had reached the shoulder, there was a very inviting
opening into which, of course, I went.

I had not penetrated far, when my attention was arrested by
some large bright coloured butterflies on the tpomoeas. Whilst
waiting for them to settle, I was arranging my scaup-net on my
stick, when I heard a singular noise near me. On looking

24 SCARED BY A SNAKE. [Ch. I.

down I discovered I was only about fifteen feet from a large
snake half coiled under an aloe, with crest erected and mouth
open.

I confess I felt frightened, and did not at all approve of
coming to South America to be ignominiously swallowed by a
snake. Determined however to sell my life as dearly as
possible, I raised my old hickory stick, meaning to try it on his
vertebrae if he approached, at the same time steadily beating a
retreat.

When at some distance, finding he did not move, I lifted a
large stone and hurled it at him, at the same time giving a
tremendous yell. I missed him, but the brute uncoiled and
slunk away into the thicket, and as soon as he disappeared I
took to my heels, and made off as fast as I could, tearing my
clothes and scratching my face, in my hurry to get away from
the monster's quarters.

In the meantime my friend at the reservoir, alarmed at my
long absence up the mountain, came to look for me. I heard
him holloaing long before I got out of the wood, but I soon
reached the main road, and it was not long before I was seated
on the grass enjoying some capital rice and curry with him.
Towards four o'clock I left, my friend escorting me some dis-
tance, lest I should again lose my way.

He told me that a few weeks before a party of ladies and
gentlemen made the ascent to the shoulder on horseback for a
pic-nic. When returning, a young lady and her companion
had preceded the party, and in a narrow place her horse grew
restive and refused to stir ; the whip was applied, when he
threw her off over the precipice, the sides of which were studded
with trees. Luckily her dress caught in some branches, and
held her suspended over the awful abyss below. She was soon
rescued, and the cause of the horse's swerving was discovered
in a large boa constrictor lying across the road, its head and
tail invisible. They attacked it, but at the first blow it disap-
peared in the ravine.

After accompanying me for a mile or two, my friend Pedro
Gronsalves left me. He was a good specimen of the kind-
hearted and hospitable people of the country to which he
belongs.

I had not gone far when the rumble of distant thunder

Ch. I.] A SAFER RETREA T, 25

warned me not to loiter. The whole sky became overcast, and
heavy rain-drops came pattering down. Seeing a light at some
distance below, I made all haste to reach it, but did not succeed
before the rain fell in torrents, the thunder echoed from cliff
to cliff, and the vivid flashes of lightning almost blinded me.

I entered a small shanty on the roadside, but could see no
one. I announced my arrival in the usual way by clapping
my hands ; and then as I advanced I saw behind a large wooden
chest an old couple with their child kneeling, offering up
prayers to their patron saint, to protect them from the storm
fiends. I did not disturb them, but remained near the door-
way till the rain had passed. They then came forward, and
asked me how I came to be in such a lonely place, as they
could not understand how anyone could go there who was not
obliged.

The man was guardian to part of the aqueduct. He told me
he was a native of Viana, in Portugal, and showed the greatest
delight when he found I knew the place well. ' While con-
versing with him, his old wife busied herself with preparations
for supper, and invited me to partake of it. It consisted of
brouer or coarse bread, made of unbolted rye and Indian meal,
and fried bachalau or salt fish. I was very hungry, so ate
heartily, and washed it down with a good draught of water,
for wine they had none.

I left two cruzados novas with the old couple, and earned a
shower of blessings, and entreaties to San Antonio to protect
me in my descent. It soon grew quite dark ; and it was with
difficulty I reached Rio by midnight, wet and tired. I did
not go on board, but stayed at the hotel, and next day paid
a visit to the Botanical or Emperor's Gardens, about eight
miles from the city.

It is a pleasant drive, past all the pretty gardens and cottages,
to the comfortable inn close to the place. The most prominent
feature there is some rows of the Oreodoxa Regia palm, most
of them nearly forty feet in height. They were planted by
Dom John VI., who founded the gardens. There is a fine
avenue of Casuarinas, rows of cinnamon and clove-trees, and
the tea-plant.

These have been introduced with the view of cultivating
them as articles of commerce ; and I think, if properly managed.

26 CAMPO DI SANTA ANNA, [Ch. I.

they will be successful, as the climate seems to suit them. At
San Paalo is a tea-plantation, which already sends tea of good
quality to the Eio market. A little stream flows through the
grounds, bordered with clumps of the graceful feathery bamboo,
that gives such elegance to tropical scenery. The Jack and
bread-fruit trees grow very large. I was astonished to find a
total absence of the thousands of beautiful indigenous plants,
which could be easily collected in the immediate vicinity.
Even the rare and lovely orchideae of the country would make
charming groups, and be of the greatest interest to the
foreigner.

I was greatly disappointed with the gardens, and thought
how different they would have been in either Europe or
America, with such a wealth of material close to hand, enough
to make them of world-wide fame.

In a fine square, the Campo di Santa Anna, is the national
museum ; but it was scarcely worth a visit, all the specimens
jumbled together without any arrangement or order. This
square also contains a theatre and a number of Grovernment
buildings.

In the Campo di Dom Pedro is a fine statue of this emperor
in bronze, and the square is ornamented with beautiful trees
and flowering shrubs. The country produces sugar, cotton,
delicious fruits, and coffee ; the latter is the principal export.

Eio contains about 175,000 inhabitants, the greater portion
of which are coloured. It can boast of one of the finest docks
in the world ; hewn out of the solid rock, and cost many
millions of dollars. It is the work of an English engineer.
There is an iron foundry, which I visited, and its works will vie
with those of European nations. This is also under the
management of Europeans and Americans.

On November 19 we were ready for sea; our engines had been
overhauled and put in perfect order, and we steamed up the har-
bour and anchored off Coal Island. At noon three Spanish frigates
fired a salute in commemoration of the Queen of Spain's corona-
tion. Their masts were lined with the flags of all nations, and
they fired fast and regularly a hundred guns. On the 22nd
the ' Monocacy ' turned her head towards the sea, and we slowly
steamed away.

AVhen close to the stern of the English flag-ship, the admiral

Ch. L]

DEPARTURE.

27

gave us a good-bye salute. Just as we left a clipper ship was
putting into the port in distress, having lost her top-masts and
bulwarks.

As we passed St. Cruz a swell set in from the west. The
ship rolled heavily, as we were deep in the water, having 300
tons of coal on board, including 40 tons on deck.

bUGAR-LOAF HILL.

CHAPTER 11.

EASTWABB BOUND.

Bad AVeather — Catching an Albatross — Accident to Captain — Brilliance of
Southern Constellations— Serious Consequences of killing an Albatross — "Whale
Brit — Tristan d'Acunha — Its History — Chemical Barometer, and how to make
it — Arrival in Simon's Bay — Description of Country — Cape Sheep — Hottentot
Venus — The Pilot — Baboons — A Night in the Mountains — Ascent of Table
Mountain — Principal Features of Cape Town — Harbour Sights — A Cape "Waggon
— Churches — Masonry — The Government — A Dutch Boer — Road from Cape
Town to Simon's Bay — Adieu to the Cape — A Hurricane — Hints on Cyclones —
Mauritius at Last.

Again on tlie wide ocean, onward bound ; but we soon found it
was not to be smooth sailing, for we had been but one day at
sea when the weather changed.

On the night of the 23rd it was so rough, everything was
rolling and pitching about, and keeping up such a clattering
that sleep was impossible. The. guns frequently dipped in the
water, and the waves broke over the hurricane deck.

Many of both officers and men were sea-sick, myself amongst
the number. I lay tossing from side to side, and wondering
how people could like the sea. I thought of the song ' Some
love to roam o'er the dark sea's foam,' but decidedly give me
the ' Life in the woods.' My only consolation was that the
waves which surged over our vessel, and the wind that whistled
round us, carried us rapidly on our way ; this pleased our captain,
too, for he was very anxious to get far to the SE., beyond the
river La Plate, to avoid the Pampero which prevails at this
season. This wind is so called from its blowing off the Pampas,
and is dreaded by navigators cruising in these latitudes.

Towards noon of the 24th, though little squalls of rain con-
tinued, the barometer indicated a change for the better ; and I
amused myself fishing with line and hook, baited with pork, for
a large albatross which hovered round the ship. The hook had a

Ch. II.] DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. 29

bit of wood for a float, and tlie bird would gracefully sail round
it, and then plunge at the bait ; but as I was quite a novice at
this kind of bird-catching, I failed in my efforts. He did not,
however, quit us, but, in company with some petrels, kept round
about the ship till dark.

The 25th rose bright and clear, and all was bustle and
activity on deck, as the crew were being exercised at the guns.
After this the men had their day to themselves. It was curious
to watch them all, seated over the deck with their biddy-boxes
of needles, thread, buttons, &c. Some were making shirts,

TABLE MOUNTAIN.

pants, or cap-covers ; others cutting out new, or mending old
clothes, and very deftly too ; for a man-of-war's man can turn
his hand to everything. During the day there was a sale of
the effects of two or three sailors who had deserted at Kio.
Beds, bedding, wearing apparel, every article, was put up
separately, and knocked down to the highest bidder ; and a
good deal of fun was made as any rather out-of-the-way thing,
or ragged garment, was held up.

Divine service was held by Captain Carter regularly every
sabbath. All came aft in their best clothes, and seated them-
selves quietly and reverently. The American flag was spread
over a table, and when prayers were read, officers and men
' joined in a hymn. It is, I think, a peculiarly impressive service,
out on the deep blue ocean. There were 175 souls shut
away from all the world, assembling, and uniting their voices

30 AN ALBATROSS. [Ch. II.

in praise of their Creator. In the evening I sat in the ward-
room with the officers, and we sang all the good old psalm
tunes. They brought back younger days when, at the old fire-
side at home, all the dear ones, now dead or scattered, joined
in the holy songs.

No little excitement was one day aroused by an accident that
nearly proved fatal to our captain. He was standing near the
rail, watching the men cleaning a boat ; and as they were
hauling it into its place, one of the davits struck him and sent
him overboard. Fortunately, he caught at a block and rope,
and with difficulty saved himself. It was a narrow escape, as
we were steaming along six knots, and had he gone down to the
water there would have been little chance of saving him.
Officers and men looked pale when they heard of it, for the
captain was much liked, and they congratulated him heartily.
His loss would have been a great grief to us all, and an irre-
parable one to our ship. Albatrosses and petrels were always
round us. The men tried hard to get me one of the former, but
for a long while unsuccessfully. One of our sailors named Benaro,
at last caught one, and after great resistance he drew him on
board ; but not before it had taxed his utmost skill and strength.

In about half an hour another was hooked, and we let them
go about on the deck together. They were fine birds, but looked
very droll waddling along. I had been instructed to procure a
fine specimen of this bird for one of our large public institutions.
I was anxious to kill one without injuring his plumage, and so
gave him a dose of cyanide of potassium about as large as a pea ;
in less than a minute he lay over on his side, dead without a
struggle. We concluded to give the other his liberty ; but
first fastened a strip of copper round his neck, on which was
engraved the name of our ship, and our lat. and long., and then
sent him over the side. He was so astonished at finding himself
once more in the water that he did not attempt to fly off, but
kept swimming after us.

In these latitudes the zodiacal stars, such as Orion and
Arcturus, give the mariner the E. and W. bearings, and the
Southern Cross the N. and S. when Polaris and the Grreat Bear
can no longer be seen. I had heard so much of the Southern
Cross, I was anxious to see it ; but confess if it had not
been pointed out to me, I should not have discovered it.

Ch. II.] THE STARS. 31

Perhaps it may be more brilliant when we are more to the
south. But the other constellations are magnificent, and it was
one of my greatest pleasures on board to sit gazing up at the
wonderful beauty overhead. How many queries are suggested
to a reflecting mind when we take an attentive view of the
celestial vault that overtops our world, with the planets and
stars one after the other emerging from the blue ethereal, and
gradually illuminating the firmament, till it is spangled over
with its shining orbs, moving in silent grandeur at such immense
distances as to be past the range of human comprehension !
Who, while contemplating them, can doubt the existence of the
Supreme Being who has created them, and guides these
millions of worlds in their courses ?

Then came the unanswerable questions. What purpose do
they serve in the vast plan of the universe ? How do their
law^s, physical and moral, differ from ours ? Are they inhabited
by sentient beings, like ourselves, actuated by the same hopes
and fears, the same passions, and subject to dissolution even as
we are ? Here my meditations were cut short by a call to go
aft, and look at the myriads of medusae and squids swimming
round the ship. Being disturbed by the motion of the vessel,
they threw off a phosphoric light, so brilliant that their forms
could be discerned. The sides of the vessel were illuminated
till every bolt and bar was visible.

It was most interesting to watch them, and we could see that
they continued to give out this electric light till they were far
astern.

About eleven o'clock a large meteor crossed the heavens, at
about 75 degrees, and took a western flight, till it sank below
the horizon. It appeared about the size of a man's head, and
left a train of brilliant light behind it like a sky-rocket. I
seemed to hear a rushing noise as it passed through the atmo-
sphere. The light remained for half a minute before it faded
away. Many smaller meteors appeared the same evening, taking
the same course, shooting with the greatest velocity.

On the 28th we had a squall that carried away our topmasts,
which increased to a gale by night. Instead of the calm placid
appearance of the preceding evening, we had the sea running
mountains high, and the wind howling through the rigging.

However, I turned in, and contrived to sleep soundly in spite

D

32 SUPERSTITIONS AT SEA. [Ch. II.

of wind and weather. Up to December 3 we had continual squalls,
when I found, to my utter astonishment, that to Tne was attri-
buted a good deal of the contrariety of the elements ! The sailors
averred that it was all owing to my having killed the albatross.
When the storm was at its height on the Sunday, they entreated
me not to kill any more of these birds, as they are considered to
be the spirits of seamen lost in the ocean ; and w^ho, dying un-
assoiled, have to wander over the face of the deep for an infinity
of years ; and they hover round ships in the hope of seeing
some of their old comrades.

I could not help laughipg at the superstition, which was
partially shared even by some of the officers ; but finding them
so earnest in their belief, I promised that no other bird should
be molested by me while on board. I was sorry for the sake of
science ; for I saw some of the yellow-nosed albatrosses and
large petrels afterwards, which I should like to have got for the
Long Island Historical Society, New York, but was obliged to
allow the lost spirits to sail on in security, protected by the
brave sons of Neptune.

.Luckily for me they did not serve me like Coleridge's
' Ancient Mariner,' and hang the dead bird round my neck,

For I had done a hellish thing,

And it would work me woe ;
For all averred I had killed the bird,

That made the fair breeze blow.
' Ah wretch,' said they, * the bird'to slay,

That made the breeze to blow.'

For several evenings I saw the most brilliant meteors ; and
the long continuation of them seemed so remarkable, I suggested
they should be noticed in the log. But no — the officer on deck
could not be made to see ' the use ' of recording ' falling-
stars,' as he called them. It is a pity our Naval Academy does
not do more towards cultivating the minds as well as develop-
ing the physical powers of the men. As it is, as good or better
men might be taken out of our mercantile marine to man our
ships of war.

On the 4th I observed large red patches of what appeared
like weeds on the sea, and got one of the sailors to take up a
bucket of water containing some of the substance. I found it
was alive with crustaceous animals which whalemen call Brit,

Ch. II.]

TRISTAN UACUNHA.

33

on which the right whale feeds. The presence of this food
accounts for our having seen so many whales. We were then
in Lat. 36. 20, Long. 16. 15.

On the 5th, was heard the cheering cry of Land ho ! from the
mast-head, and on the windward beam we soon saw the moun-
tain of Tristan d'Acunha appearing above the white clouds that
hung on the horizon. Though we had a fair view of the
islands, we could not approach them, as the weather was uncer-
tain, and it is considered a dangerous coast ; so we gave them
a good wide berth to leeward, and proceeded on our course. I

TRISTAN D'ACUNHA.

collected, however, some information about them, which I will
relate. There are three islands in the group, but one only is
inhabited. They were discovered by the Portuguese. The
mountain in the central island is said to be 8,356 feet high, ac-
cessible to its summit, although it is snow-capped a greater
part of the year. Trees grow half way up, but the rest is a
rugged peak. Captain Patten of the ship ' Industry ' was there,
sealing, from August 1790 to April 179L An open bay lies on
the west, with a fine beach of black sand, where the ship's boats
were hauled up. There are two falls of excellent water, afford-

34 GOVERNOR GLASS. [Ch. II.

ing a supply sufficient for a large fleet ; and from one of
these cascades the water casks could be filled by means of a
hose, without removing them from the boats.

There is a good deal of timber, though not high. The prin-
cipal trees resemble the yew in foliage, with a wood like the
maple, ^ and burns well. Wild celery, dock, sorrel, and parsley
are found. Grannets, penguins, albatrosses. Cape cocks and
hens, and a bird something like a partridge, only it is black,
and cannot fly, are abundant. Such numbers of sea lions are on
this coast, that Captain Patten said he could have loaded a ship
with the oil in three weeks.

Between the shore and the foot of the mountain is a fine
rich soil, of a red colour and good depth, well adapted for the
growth of vegetables.

In 1811 one Jonathan Lambert, an American, by a singular
edict, declared himself sovereign proprietor of the island. He
sowed the ground with various seeds, and planted coffee and
canes, both of which did well. He, however,. soon abandoned
it ; and, at a later period, the British Grovernment took formal
possession of it, by a detachment from the Cape of Grood Hope.

An old Serjeant of artillery called Griass, was made Grovernor,
and a little colony was formed of twenty-two men and three
women.

In 1823 a British vessel putting in there was astonished to
find Englishmen, and an abundant supply of vegetables, pigs,
goats, fruit, and water.

Griass told the sailors if there were only a few more of the
fair sex, it would be a Paradise.

In 1829 Captain Ben Morrell, of the U.S.Ship ' Antartic,' said
he found seven families living there very comfortably under the
administration of Griass ; and keeping bullocks, sheep, goats,
poultry, eggs, butter and milk, all which they sell to ships on
very reasonable terms.

The inhabitants have increased to eighty-five, and the island
is considered the healthiest known ; no epidemic has reached it,
and children have none of the diseases elsewhere common to
them.

This island lies 1,320 miles S. of St. Helena, in Lat. 37. 2.
48, Long. 12. 18. 29.

' Possibly the Yellow-wool of the Cape, though that tree grows large and hi^h
in the forest

Ch. II.] A HOME-MADE BAROMETER. 35

After passing Tristan d'Acunha, we began to see the pretty
black and white Cape pigeons, that swim round the ship like a
flock of ducks, and greedily pick up any scraps the sailors throw
overboard.

Every night, from November 27 to December 6, meteors were
seen, some very large, leaving their long tracks of light behind.
I especially mention this to those who are studying meteor-
ology, for I believe it is very uncommon for so many to be seen
of such dimensions in so short a space of time.

When about 600 miles from the Cape, we again saw the
whale brit and large quantities of sea- weed.

I made a barometer on board, which showed any disturbance
in the atmosphere with such unerring certainty, and indicated
it as soon as either the aneroid or quicksilver barometer, that I
here give the way to make one of these chemical weather-glasses.

Take a glass tube, perfectly clean, about twelve inches in
length and one and a half in diameter, and stop one end with
a fine clean cork. Dissolve 2 J drachms of camphor in 11
liquid drachms of alcohol, and set it aside. Put 38 grains of
nitrate of potash and 38 grains of muriate of ammonia into 9
drachms of water, and, when perfectly dissolved, mix the two
solutions together. Shake them well till thoroughly incor-
porated with each other, and fill the tube with the mixture.
Cork it up carefully, sealing both ends with wax, and then
make a small hole in one end with a red hot needle. When
the weather is clear and fine, the liquid in the tube is transpa-
rent and bright ; but on the least change, the chemicals, which
form a sediment in the bottom of the tube, become disturbed
and rise in beautiful crystals. By watching it carefully a few
days, when changes take place, one soon learns to graduate
it.i

On the 15th, land was descried ahead, and soon after we could
make out the celebrated Table Mountain, Devil's Eock, and the
Lion's Head and Rump at the Cape of Grood Hope. We ran
down the coast with the current, so as to make Simon's Bay
before dark. The shore is high and bold, and the waves dash
madly against the rocks, throwing up the foam, so that it can
be seen at a great distance.

' This kind of barometer is well known in London, and sold in scientific instru-
ment and even toy shops.

36 CAPE SHEEP. [Ch. II.

Simon's Bay is about twelve miles by sea from Cape Point, near
the NE. corner of False Bay. It lies at the foot of Simon's Berg,
one of a high ridge of mountains. Vessels that find it danger-
ous to anchor in Table Bay put into Simon's Bav, which is
considered perfectly safe at all seasons of the year. Ships
visiting this bay can always obtain refreshments from the well-
furnished stores of the town, and excellent water from the
tanks. There is also a patent slip, capable of taking up vessels
of 1,800 or 2,000 tons.

A large square rock, called Noah's Ark, lies at the entrance
of the bay ; opposite is a lighthouse, and just beyond a fortifica-
tion, called the Block-house. This is mounted with a few guns
' en barbette,' and in the centre is a small circular loop-holed
tower. Simon's Bay is noted for fish. Our men caught abun-
dance of silver-fish, mackarel. Cape salmon, and snook. The
latter is peculiar to the Cape coasts, and large quantities are
salted and packed for the Mauritius market ; the vessels bring-
ing back supplies of sugar. The houses are well built ; and
from the Admiralty House, the residence of the Commodore
commanding the Cape of Good Hope Station, a fine view is ob-
tained of the shijDping and harbour.

Bent on seeing all there was to be seen, I left the ship, with
my vasculum and a long strong stick, such as the Boers use
when on a journey. I landed at the pier, and set off on foot
along a fine road by the shore, towards Belvidere. Before
arriving at the inn there, I met a large drove of Cape sheep led
by an old ram. They came prancing down the road, their great
tails swinging and bobbing about in so droll a manner that I
was puzzled to know what they were, never having seen such
queer animals.

Instead of the ordinary caudal appendages, they have a mass
of fat, sometimes over a foot square, terminated by a pointed
tip, turned up. The upper side only of the tail has hair. The
true Cape sheep has coarse long hair, which however becomes
woolly on crossing the breed.

They are rarely seen now, the farmers finding it more
profitable to keep good woolled sheep. As the breed improves,
the tail gradually disappears. When killed, the tip is cut off
and the tail split in two, salted, and dried in the wide chimneys,
and makes a very good substitute for bacon ; or it is melted,

Ch. II.] SUGAR BIRDS. 37

and supplies the place of butter in cookery. The tip is care-
fully rendered down, and strained, when it is clear as crystal,
and can be applied to any purpose for which neat's-foot oil is
used.

I laid in a stock of refreshments at the inn, which is kept by
an Italian and his English wife. He is an old Crimean soldier,
pensioned by the British Government, having been through
the whole war.

He gave me all the information he could respecting the
natural history of the place, and accompanied me some distance,
giving me advice as to taking care of myself, &c.

I passed on along a pretty road still skirting the bay,
and came to an open grassy spot, apparently the site of a
former dwelling. There were long rows of aloes in full
blossom, looking like a file of soldiers in the distance, with
their bright scarlet and yellow flowers. Hovering over them
were a number of long-tailed delicate birds. The bill is very
long and curved, which they insert into the bells of the aloe, each
one containing a large drop of delicious honey. They are never
seen to alight, but circle round the plant uttering a rapid twit-
tering note.

They are called sugar birds, and have the most brilliant
plumage. The body is excessively small, but covered with
feathers of the richest scarlet, purple, and green or yellow
tints, often overlaid with a golden sheen that flashes in the
sun till they look like winged jewels.

Aloes are common all over the country, and form an article
of commerce. The long, large leaves, deeply serrated and
bearing a sharp spine at the point, are cut on a bright clear
day. A hole is dug near the plant and lined with maize leaves,
in which the cut aloe leaves are placed. They bleed freely,
and the viscous matter that flows from them very soon
coagulates, when it is collected for sale. It is said to be equal
to the finest socotrine aloes. From the network of the leaves
I have seen very fair paper made, and the heart of the plant is
as sweet as a nut, if care be taken in cutting off the leaves,
which are bitter as gall.

Two huge ribs of a whale were placed at each side of the
road, forming an archway. Many other large bones were
scattered about, this having been once a whale fishery, but now

38 A HOTTENTOT VENUS. [Ch. II.

abandoned. As I ascended a little elevation I could see a
number of small houses, but only two or three were occupied.

As I approached, I saw a Hottentot woman washing clothes.
If it be rude to stare at the fair sex, I certainly was guilty of
rudeness to the last degree. I found all the descriptions I had
ever heard of the Hottentot Venus beaten to fits by the reality.
Cape sheep are nothing to it ! She was dressed in a skin of
some animal, made very soft, and tightly drawn round her
person from the waist to the knee, so that of course a perfect
outline of her figure was visible.

Her nude baby was lying under a tree near her, and when 1
questioned her about the place, she rose to show me the way to
the principal house. She coolly shook her vestment straight,
and snatched up the child, placing it on the seat nature had
provided for it on its mother's haunches. As it was restless, to
quiet it she lifted up her breast, which the child clutched over
her shoulder, and thus took his breakfast as we went along.
I never witnessed such a sight, and wished for my camera to
take off the picture.^

She told me the principal person there was an old Scotch-
man, called Captain John Miller, who was the pilot of the port.
This place is called Allen's Point.

I found the old man busy salting snook in a little outhouse.
I at once told him who I was, and where from, when he quitted
his work and entered into a conversation about America. I
found him intelligent and he led the way to his house, where
I partook of his hospitality. He showed me all over his place,
and said that, with the exception of a coloured boy he was
trying to bring up respectably, and teaching to read and
write, there was no one else near but the Hottentot woman and
her husband.

He had a nice patch of vegetables near the house ; but he
told me the baboons were so troublesome, they robbed him of
nearly all his crops. He was determined to put a stop to their
depredations, and he built a little thatched hut so as to
overlook the garden, and placed a man there with a loaded
gun. But they were too clever to be caught so easily. They
watched the time when the man went to his dinner and down

' I afterwards succeeded in getting one that will give some idea of the lady in
question.

Ch. II.] - BABOONS. 39

they would come, doing endless mischief in his absence. These
animals are very crafty, and when out marauding, one party is
sent thieving while others are despatched to the different
points commanding the situation, as scouts. The thieves
devour all they can and fill their cheek pouches, and carry oif
as much as possible if all goes well. On the slightest appear-
ance of danger, or the approach of any one, a peculiar cry is
given as a warning signal, when away they scurry and it
would be a fleet foot that could follow. They make for the
nearest bush or kranz, where they grin down in triumphant
security.

To go back to my old man, who knew their cunning ways :
one day when the guardian left for dinner, down they came as
usual, grown bold by continued successes ; but whilst they
were devouring the pumpkins the man cautiously crept back,
and soon succeeded in mortally wounding a large fellow about
four feet high. The scene that followed was so painful, that
Capt. Miller declared he would never shoot another if they eat
up all his vegetables. He describes it as exactly like a human
being in the death agony.

The poor thing looked up in his face so pitifully, whilst its
plaintive cries asked for help as plainly as could a human voice,
that he felt as if he had committed a naurder.

Near to his house was an eminence, where he kept a sharp
look-out for vessels entering the bay. At the foot of this hill
were two solitary graves ; one bore the inscription on the head-
stone : Euth Santi, October 25, 1865. The poor woman had
arrived there in an emigrant vessel bound to Australia, which was
obliged to put in for help, having so nauch sickness on board.
Euth was taken on shore, but too late, and fell a victim to the
dire disease, dysentery, and was buried in this lonely place.

The old man warned me against the snakes, which were numer-
ous, but told me that a long black serpent from six to eight feet
long was considered harmless, and that they were never killed,
as they preyed upon other snakes and were capital rat hunters.

We went through the bush to a high bluff about three miles
distant, and here we came upon a whole family party of
baboons at play. The young ones were sliding down a grassy
slope, rolling over like great fur balls, chattering and gam-
bolling like so many boys at play ; which in the distance they

40 A NIGHT SURPRISE. [Ch. II.

so greatly resembled, that I could have sworn they were
children. One of the old ones was leaning on a stick watching
the others. I wished for one of their thick skins to send home,
but could not find the heart to shoot a baboon.

The captain accompanied me some distance on my way back ;
but when he left me, instead of going to Simon's town, I deter-
mined to pass the night in the mountains, and branched off up
one of them. I reached an elevation of about 2,000 feet, just
in time to witness a beautiful sunset. A long bank of heavy
black clouds in the west was illuminated, as the sun sank below
the horizon, till it appeared as if lined with silver and radi-
ating all the spectral colours from its edges, which changed
every moment.

The top of the ridge is flat table land, as smooth and grassy
as a well kept lawn. It was now nearly dark, and, descending
a little, I found a nice nook under a shelving rock, which I
beat well with my stick to be sure there were no snake
tenants ; then took off my big coat and rolled it up for a
pillow, lighted my pipe, and was fixed for the night.

I awoke about one o'clock much confused, either dreaming
or hearing human voices. I sprang up, revolver in hand, and
sallied forth. About twenty feet from me I saw some very
suspicious looking people silently crossing the path : I called
to them but got no answer, so fired, when a loud screeching
was set up, and away they all scampered into the bush. I then
found I had appropriated the bedroom of some baboon family,
out for a spree, and on their return they had discovered me ;
and I suppose it was their vocal objections to my presence that
had awakened me.

It was a glorious moonlight night, so I pushed on for Simon's
Bay, soliloquising as I went.

From boyhood upwards I had read every book on African
travels, from Mungo Park to Livingstone, and had longed to
tread the wilds of Africa. Well, here was my dream realised,
and the place had a perfect enchantment for me. I reached
the Eoyal Hotel about daybreak, and had a sound sleep while
they prepared me a capital breakfast.

When I called upon our consul, Mr. Grraham, he had gone
to Cape Town ; but a few days after he came on board, and gave

Ch. II.] CAPE TOWN. 41

Captain Carter and myself an invitation to spend Christmas-
day with him at Wynberg.

On the 25th we left the ship, and found our consul waiting
with a carriage for us. The morning was clear and bracing,
and we soon reached the sands of the beach, when lo, our noble
steed protested against proceeding further. With difficulty he
was coaxed on and we were obliged to walk along the heavy
sand till we got to Ealk Bay, where the road is smooth and
level and winds round the base of a mountain. Near this, on
a lovely spot, stands the country house of our vice-consul Mr.
Martin. We stopped there a short time, and he showed me
some curious geological formations on the beach near his house.

After a delightful drive, we arrived at Wynberg and had a
good day of it, and a regular English Christmas dinner, and
returned well pleased to the inn. I was so taken with the
road, which is macadamised with stone containing iron ore in
excess, and that makes it literally an iron road, that I deter-
mined to go to Cape Town and up Table Mountain.

The next day I drove to an hotel in Cape Town, and per-
suaded my landlady to give me my breakfast over night so as
to pack it in my vasculum ; starting off long before daylight, I
was some way up the mountain by sunrise, and had a good
view of the environs of Cape Town. The ocean was calm, the
atmosphere clear ; and when about 1,200 feet up I had my
breakfast, without the fear of the ' table cloth ' being let down
over my head.^ By 12 o'clock I reached the Plateau, which
is about two miles in length and about a mile broad. A con-
stant verdure is maintained by the moisture of the atmosphere.
I there collected many species of the Amaranthus for which
the Cape is noted, especially the delicate pink and white ones,

' This peculiar phenomenon is called the ' Devil's Table Cloth,' and is a thin
sheet of white vapour, often seen rushing over the edge of the precipice, while the
entire sky is blue and serene. The rapidity of the descent resembles water pouring
over the face of a rock. The air begins to be agitated in the valley, and in less
than half-an-hour Cape Town is filled with dust, and the inhabitants are obliged to
shut up doors and windows. The lower boundary of the cloud is regulated by
the wind and temperature in Table Valley. The cloud never descends more than
half way into the hot amphitheatre of Cape Town ; but on the side of Camp's Bay
it may be seen rolling down in immense volumes to the sea.

It has a most singular aspect ; continually rushing to a certain point, and then
vanishing. Fleecy clouds are seen, torn by the winds, whirling over the town, but
the main body remains fixed to the mountain.

42 TABLE BAY. [Ch. II.

the large silvery white, and yellow tipped with pui'ple.
Large proteas with their pale pink petals half covered with a
many-leafed calyx of white downy satin ; ericas of various
hues ; the silver tree leaves {Leucadendron argenteunh) and in
every cleft elegant ferns.

There are a good many dangerous places up the mountain ;
and many persons have lost their lives when night has over-
taken them, enveloped in the ' table cloth.'

When descending I heard a deep growl, and, looking across
a chasm, I saw a head about as large as a dog's, which I took
to be a jackal's. I aimed steadily at it with my revolver,
which sent a bullet crashing through the skidl, when he sprang
up and fell into the ravine below out of my reach.

I saw a number of wild animals I did not know sitting on
their haunches curiously watching me till I approached, when
they would bound over the rocks or disappear in the clefts.
I found afterwards they were the Dassy or Eock rabbit, I
believe a true coney. They can be easily tamed when young,
but are very mischievous, quite equal to a monkey in cunning
and agility.

All was new and curious to me, and I returned delighted
with my trip in time for a late dinner at an hotel in Cape
Town ; and on the following day had hastily to collect all my
notes on the place, and be back in the evening, as the ' Mono-
cacy' was ready for sea again. ^

Cape Town is built on a gradual slope, bounded on the
NW. by Table Bay, and almost enclosed on the other sides by
a cordon of mountains.

The Lion's Head and Rump can be easily ascended, as their
sides slope gradually and overlook a great extent of country.
There is also an ascent termed the Kloof, which offers, from
its scorched sides covered with the silver tree, some very
lovely scenery, including the far distant Blue Berg mountains,
with their snow-clad summits.

From the anchorage Cape Town has a pleasing aspect, the
charm of which is in no way dispelled on landing and passing up
the principal thoroughfare, Adderly Street, and entering a fine

' As my time was very limited, I have copied the following information from the
Ciipp Almanac.

Ch. II.] THE CAPE OBSERVATORY. 43

avenue of oaks that is a quarter of a mile long, and near which
are some of the best buildings.

Among the latter may be enumerated, Grovernment House,
St. George's Grammar School, Public Library, Museum, &c.

There are many places worth visiting, such as the Patent
Slip, and Ice works, breakwater, harbour and dock works,
Green and Sea Points, Eobbin Island, Infirmary, and others.

It is the seat of Government, the capital of the colony, and
the centre of all public business. It is connected by telegraph
with Port Elizabeth, Graham's Town, King William's Town,
and all the principal places in the eastern districts. It ex-
ports wool, copper ore, hides, horns, ivory, and ostrich feathers,
to England and foreign countries ; corn, wine, and brandy, to
the Eastern provinces, British KafFraria, and Natal.

Fine steamers run regularly to and from England with the
monthly mails, and thus keep up a regular correspondence with
the Mother-country. Two lines of railway, of about thirty miles
each, branch off from the town, and fine roads scaling the loftiest
heights connect it with the remoter districts.

The Eoyal Observatory is about three miles from Cape Town,
prettily situated, and possesses much interest. The present
manager is Sir Thomas Maclear, who has made it one of the
most valuable colonial institutions of the British Government.
It is furnished with very superior instruments, and the clear
atmosphere of the Cape fits it in a remarkable manner for astro-
nomical observations. Sir Thomas has added greatly to astro-
nomical and meteorological literature.

A time-ball drops from the flagstaff at one p.m. Cape mean
time, and a corresponding one on the Lion's Eump falls at
nearly the same instant, at a point where it commands tlie
sweep of the whole bay.

There are three lights, one on Eobbin Island — a white fixed
light of the first order, dioptric ; a white light of the third
order, flashing at intervals of ten seconds, and can be seen thir-
teen miles at sea, placed on Green Point ; and a third on
Mouil'le Point with a red light, fourth order. On Cape Point
is an iron lighthouse, thirty feet high, having a revolving white
light of the first order, visible thirty-six miles seaward. A fine
breakwater is in course of construction, on the plan of that in
Portland Bay, England.

44 A CAPE WAGGON. [Ch. II.

In 1860, the first truckfull of stones was tripped into the sea
by Prince Alfred. There are 1,820 feet completed. An inner
dock is also far advanced, 1,025 feet long, by 250 and 500
broad. The whole of it has been blasted out of hard blue rock,
and the stone carried into the sea for the breakwater.^

The streets are laid out at exact right angles, and, like all
towns in south Africa, are wide and well kept. On account of
the large waggons with their spans of twelve to fourteen oxen,
there is a bye-law compelling streets to be of a certain width,
to allow of room for turning the unwieldy vehicles.

A Cape waggon is certainly unique in make and appearance,
but admirably suited to the country roads, which frequently
descend deep ravines (or kloofs, as they are here called), mount
steep hills, with only a rough path cut through the bush, or
ford the stony beds of rivers. There are no nails in them ; all
is of the toughest wood, iron-bound, and so constructed as to
yield to the exigencies of the road. The Trek-oxen are gene-
rally fine animals, and a farmer takes the greatest pride in
having his span of twelve well matched. Jet black, chestnut,
dun with black faces, or bluish grey are the favourite colours.
Every ox has a name, to which it answers at the driver's call ;
or when deaf to that, he has a terrible weapon in the whip
he uses. It is of stout elastic bamboo, twenty to twenty-five feet
long, with a lash of the same length tipped with afoot of leather
prepared in a particular way. It is a boy's first plaything, and
it is considered quite a feat to clap well — though, if the stroke
is missed, the lash recoils on the unskilful wielder. The clap^
is like the report of a pistol, and a good ox won't need to feel
it for he knows by experience the driver can hit the offender
with unerring aim. There are three daily markets, to which
all the products of the country are brought.

Cape Town boasts of eight half English and Dutch newspapers,
and four published entirely in Dutch. Most are ably conducted,
but the rival editors carry on an unceasing war.

' The English Church is under the supervision of a bishop,
with large staff of clergy. The Dutch Reformed Church has its
synod there ; the London, Wesleyan, South African, and French

' Since this was written, the Breakwater has been opened for use by Prince
Alfred in a late visit.

' Clap is the word iised instead of crack in the Cape.

Ch. II.] GOVERNMENT AT THE CAPE. 45

Missionary Societies, Ebenezer, Lutheran, and Scotch Presby-
terian churches, Eoman Catholics, Jews, and Mohammedans, all
are represented there, and disseminate their doctrines far and
wide over the vast colony.'

Masonry is carried on to a great extent. There are over fifty
lodges and chapters of Masons and Oddfellows. Near the Parlia-
ment House is the Grood Hope Lodge of Knights Templars,
said to be one of the finest in the world ; built about thirty
years ago ; elegantly frescoed inside — the work of an Italian
artist — and it has a fine garden attached to it. The King of
Holland is the Grrand Master. This institution has about
12,000^. out at interest, which is loaned to orphan children of
masons, to educate them ; each child giving his individual note
for the money, which becomes a debt of honour, to be paid when
circumstances permit.

Adjoining the Lodge is an elevated ground, used by the
niembers for the game of golf. It is played with balls, struck
through rings with shinney sticks, and the champion generally
gets a prize.

The museum, besides foreign objects of interest, has a fine
collection of the animals and insects of the colony. In the
same building is the library, containing 35,000 volumes, besides
5,000 valuable books of reference. I saw an original copy of
Shakespeare, presented by Miss Burdett Coutts, which cost716^.
I think it is a pity that she did not give them the money in-
stead, towards educating some of the poor children of the town.
A full length portrait of Prince Alfred adorns the library.

I was greatly amused at the signboards in the streets, which
bore the drollest names, one especially with Mr. and Mrs.
Death on it.

Sir P. E. Woodhouse is the present Grovernor, and Sir E. P.
Douglas, Bart., Lieutenant-Governor and commander of the
forces. ' The colony is ruled by an Executive Council of five
members, the Chief Judge presiding ; a Legislative Council of
twenty-one members chosen for ten years, the Grovernor its
President ; and a House of Assembly of sixty-six members, re-
presenting the country districts, elected every five years, and led
by a speaker — the same as in the English House of Commons.'

A fine portrait of Sir Gr. Darling — a former Grovernor — is hung
in the Hall of Assembly.

4-6 DUTCH BOERS. [Ch. II.

The former feeling of ill-will between the Dutch and English
has nearly died out in Cape Town, and is so greatly modified in
the provinces it is rarely met with ; indeed, the young Dutch-
man's greatest pride is to speak English well, and be dressed
English fashion.

The Dutch language in Cape Town, where spoken, is high
Dutch, but in the remoter districts it is a vile mixture of low
Dutch, Hottentot, and bad English. From what I saw, Queen
Victoria has few more loyal subjects than the descendants of the
former possessors of the Cape of Good Hope. They are noted
for hospitality, and as to the cleanliness and order of the houses
of the Dutch, I cannot speak too highly in praise of them.

It is rare to see near the capital one of the true race of Boers,
which, for the benefit of my friends, allow me to say, does not
mean a rude churl, as with us, but merely a country farmer.
The Boer proper is almost extinct. Occasionally may be seen
men of athletic make, over six feet, dressed in moleskin pants,
and short round jackets, a felt high-crowned hat, and velt
schoons or shoes of undressed leather ; accompanied by wife
and children of all ages, in short skimp skirts, little round
capes or kerchiefs, and monstrous cappies {anglice poke
bonnets), quilted, with a deep curtain to them, and a bunch of
faded artificial roses pinned on top. They are a nineteenth-
century wonder, and take you back to the early days of New
York, till you fancy it is Eip van Winkle in propria persona,
risen again after another 200 years' sleep.

He certainly could not look more astonished at the progress
of the present day, than an up-country Boer does at the various
articles for luxury or comfort displayed in an English shop,
when he condescends to visit one.

A curious story was told me of one of these old men, who
was blest with several stalwart sons, all expert enough in plough-
ing, sowing, or reaping, but who knew little else than these arts.
Some trader visited the far away farm, and told marvellous
tales of the outer world, and advised the father to let his sons
travel. The idea worked in his brain, but took long to develop.
One day, greatly to his eldest son's astonishment, he told him
to go to a neighbour's farm for a month, and amuse himself
and see all he could of the world ! and away went Jan well
pleased. On the trader's return the old man told him he had

Ch. II.] WYNBERG. 47

followed his counsels, and sent his son to see the world. This
aroused the man's curiosity, so he asked him to what country he
had packed him off so soon, and if it had not been a great grief
to part from him. ' Ach mein Grott, yah, but I think it will
be for the lad's benefit to see the world, so sent him to Mynheir
van Zwartes', twenty miles off, and told him to stop a month
and see all he could ! '

I bid farewell to Cape Town about eight o'clock ; and as I'
had sent on my carpet bag &c. by the mail cart, I set off on
foot anxious to see some of the places on the road to Simon's
Bay.

I passed the observatory, but had not time to stop there, and
went on to Wynberg, where I saw the establishment of
Plumstead, formerly belonging to a Mr. Batts, an Englishman.
He had laid out 150 acres in splendid gardens, with fine
avenues of oak and other trees ; and the houses must once have
been handsome, but are now in ruins. He died in 1833, and,
as is a common custom in the Cape, lies buried on the property,
under a handsome monument of Sicilian marble, on each side
of which are inscriptions from the Song of Solomon in letters
of gold, but it is rapidly going to decay, and is half hidden in
weeds and shrubs.

I saw some fine fields of tobacco, which is very largely culti-
vated. Grreat quantities of Cavendish, cigars, and cut tobacco
are exported. The mulberry tree grows to a great size, and
latterly silk cultivation is going on. The samples produced
are very fine, and it has been found that the wild mulberry
{Moms latifolid) is equally as good for the food of the silk-
worm, as the true mulberry, and of much more rapid and easy
growth.

From the numerous vineyards, I could have fancied myself
in the south of France. The lovely village of Constantia lies
in this neighbourhood, famous for its delicious Constantia and
Pontac wines, which, to be thoroughly appreciated, should be
drunk on the spot. Wynberg is fourteen miles from Cape
Town, and is the terminus of one branch of the railway. I
passed through Clermont, Mowbray, and other pretty villages,
all of which had an air of neatness and comfort quite refresh-
ing to see. At Eondebosch is the country seat of the Grovernor,
a well wooded and cultivated demesne.

E

48 FLORA OF THE CAPE. [Ch. II.

I arrived in Ealk Bay, hot and tired, but got a comfortable
little dinner at an English hotel. This is a famous watering-
place for the gentry, who in the summer months avail
themselves of the cool sea-breezes and bathing. It is a pretty
little tree-embowered village, close to the bay, and can boast
of some good houses and an English church. I saw there some
of the pretty girls the Cape is famous for ; and in dress they
were no way behind the mother-country in elegance and
fashion.

After a rest I pushed on for Simon's Bay, passing several
fishing villages, and enjoyed immensely the sea-breeze that
tempered the midsummer heat, as I kept along the shore. I
reached Simon's Town just after dark, and at once took a boat
and went on board, where I found all ready for departure, and
next morning we slowly steamed out of the bay. I should have
liked greatly to have extended my stay in the Cape to botanise
in some of the districts. The descriptions I had of them
making me long to prove them realities.

Though some parts are sterile enough, others are strewn with
the loveliest flowers. The Ericas must be seen in their rocky
beds to be appreciated, particularly the scarlet one with its
bells an inch long. It is the native land of the Griadiola, and
in some places they literally cover acres of ground. Its lilies,
from the purest white, through all the shades of pink, to the
deepest crimson ; the large blue and white lotus blossoms
floating over the rivers, orchidese, gesnerias, geraniums,
especially the large ivy-leafed species ; jessamines of countless
varieties, the ritje peren, equal to the finest tuberose, clematis,
bignonias, and thousands of others of earth's loveliest children,
bewilder one with their beauty and perfume.

I saw air plants from the distant Greorge District, of the
species called the elephant's foot, with its clusters of pale green
leaves and pinkish blossoms, and one about the size of a cricket
ball in a dry vase on a lady's mantlepiece. It had shot out
delicate stems and leaves till it reached the ceiling, and she
had trained it like an espalier fruit tree, and it was just
showing bunches of pretty lilac flowers. But I could not
describe half I saw and heard of. As I stood looking back at
the town, I felt regret at leaving it, for I had received much
kindness and hospitality, and I hoped one day to revisit its
shores.

Ch. II.] A STORM. 49

On the 28th the barometers fell ; the weather changed and
it became thick and cloudy towards sunset, with a heavy swell
on the sea. After dark the wind rose, and by midnight it was
blowing a gale, and the waves broke over the hurricane deck with
such fury that it was with difficulty the vessel could make way
against them. Towards morning the storm abated, and then
we had a few days tolerably fair weather, till January 6, when
the sky became gloomy, dark, and threatening ; clouds passed
swiftly to the north, the sea rose, and the ship rolled heavily;
and there were all the symptoms of an approaching storm of no
ordinary force. The night fully justified our fears. Heavy
blasts of wind, straight descending torrents of rain, lightnings
forked and sheet, the creaking of the ship's timbers, the few
sails set torn to ribbons and flapping loose, the thundering-
noise of the tremendous waves as they neared us, each one
threatening to engulf our vessel — made up a wild and fearful
spectacle, but yet grand and sublime in its very wildness.

The men worked hard at repairing and bending the storm
sails, and standing by the pumps knee-deep in the water that
washed unceasingly over the decks.

Daylight showed us the extent of our damages. The paddle-
boxes were injured ; the round-houses smashed in and washed
away ; the rail forward stove in, and the one-inch iron plates
were bent double. The ring-bolts to which the heavy guns
were secured started from the deck, and the guns threatened
with each roll to break adrift from their lashings. A
temporary lull gave time for a few repairs ; and we hoped for a
change of weather, as the five hours' rain had beaten down the
sea considerably.

Towards evening, however, the tempest recommenced. A
red lurid light spread all over the sky ; and, shortly after the
setting of the sun, the ocean rose again furiously, and
announced its fresh vigour by breaking over our starboard,
washing and sweeping away all before it, tearing away the
gratings of the hatches, breaking the after skylight, and rush-
ing down into cabins and wardroom, floating everything and
drenching everybody. The wheel-ropes were carried away, and
the ship, paying off before the wind, became unmanageable.
The guys of the smoke-stack broke, and it was feared we should
have the whole mass of iron descending on us, when a general

50 CYCLONES. [Ch. II.

smash would have taken place. The ship coming to again,
filled her decks with water, and leaning over to port, remained
so long in that position that the stoutest heart quailed, and
anxiously counted the seconds, till at last she gallantly rose
again on the crest of a wave.

Luckily the sea had stove in the lower ports, so that the
immense quantity of water found a ready egress from the deck,
and the vessel, lightened of the weight, rolled less. New wheel-
ropes were rove, and the storm having exhausted its fury, by
daylight it was greatly abated, and the sun rose red and
gloriously. It was a dismal scene old Sol shone down on,
but the puffing and snorting of the powerful engine showed that
her working gear was uninj ured ; and the good ship, so severely
tried, sped onward gracefully, throwing the splashing glittering
spray from her bows back into the conquered ocean.

Reflecting calmly on these past dangers, I cannot omit to
render thanks, next to Grod, to the cool and steady bravery in
the hour of peril of our gallant commander and to many of the
officers and crew of the ' Monocacy,' for safe delivery out of
one of those terrible cyclones that occur in the South Indian
Ocean.

Deeply interested in the laws of storms, T succeeded, by
careful observations of the barometers and thermometer, no-
ticing the changes of wind and temperature, and the rising and
setting of the storm-wave, in ascertaining pretty correctly the
centre of the hurricane, and reduced the aforesaid changes of
wind and weather to the rules laid down by Messrs. Piddington
and Redfield in their admirable treatise on the laws of storms.

The officers of the vessel kindly supplied me with a copy of
the log, which greatly aided me in tracing the cyclone home to
its vortex.

Taking a scientific view of hurricanes and cyclones and the
management of vessels therein, it is clear that there are three
ways of managing a ship in, or at the appearance of, a cyclone.

First, in order to avoid the same, (in case there is plenty of
sea room) the vessel should be hove to on the proper tack ;
secondly, if a ship is caught inside of a storm-disc, the only
changes to be adopted are, running before the wind, or heaving
the ship to ; and the latter, when, on account of the high or
cross seas, the safety of the ship is endangered, the only course

Ch. IL] theory of storm centres. 51

left is to run before the wind in a tangent direction towards
the inner storm-disc, and then gradually to edge off to the
outer limits of the cyclone ; and, lastly, by running on the
outside of the wind's circle, and even profiting by it.

But the question is how to know the* approach of a cyclone,
and how to find the proper bearings of its centre. Considering
then every cyclone as a great whirlwind, the direction of every
wind is rotary, of which the outer part is a common close-
reefed topsail breeze, such as no good seaman cares for, and by
which no seaworthy ship is injured. The violence of the wind
increases with great rapidity as the centre is approached, till
close to, or in it, when it becomes of a destructive fury. Even
if this centre should have a diameter of fifty or sixty miles,
round which the storm is revolving, the first care must be to
ascertain how this point or centre bears, in order to guide
future manoeuvres. Now as the 'Monocacy' on January 6
was, according to her log, in lat. 32. 15 S. and long. 47. 45 E.,
with the wind marked as ESE., the centre of every common
wind would lay, according to proved and established rules of
storms, to the E. by K or ENE.

In the remarks in the log it is said, ' Clouds accumulating,
cloudy and damp, moderate breeze from SE. by E., sent up
fore topmast ; from 4 to 6, squally and damp, heavy swell
from SE. by E., light winds ; 6 p.m., a drizzling rain.'

But with all these clouds and dampness, we find the state of
the barometer as shown in the diagram, stating the position of
the ship and centre bearings : the storm-disc, with its hourly
changing tangent angles, is named a moderate gale, the outside
circle of a hurricane, accompanied by a slightly disturbed sur-
rounding atmosphere.

The greatest signs of an approaching cyclone are the oscilla-
tions in barometer and sympiesometer, more especially a high
barometer with gloomy threatening weather. In tlie trades or
monsoons this is always a sure sign of a coming tempest.

The question naturally arises. Can the barometer assist
in forming an approximative estimate of the ship's dis-
tance from the centre ? On first consideration, it is evident
that there are very great differences in the fall and rise of the
barometer and sympiesometer in various storms, though they
may be all true cyclones. Consequently, the variations of these

52 EASTWARD BOUND. [Ch. II.

instruments may very often mislead, but the shortness of time
in which these changes happen is enough to make even the
most careless seaman understand the danger and close approxi-
mation of the destructive centre.

The accompanying diagram shows the height and hourly
change of both instruments, and the distance from the centre
is worked out according to Mr. Piddington's rules. Certainly
these calculations can only be made approximatively, but coming
so near the truth that we may consider the result to be the true
centre.

In the Southern Indian Ocean the rate of travelling of a
hurricane may be stated to be little more than nine or ten miles
per hour, and especially in the meridian between Mauritius and
Madagascar the rate rarely exceeds eight ; so it is evident from
the little progress the ' Monocacy ' made against a head wind
and sea, the course to the N. and E. brought her nearer to the
focus.

The weather during the following days showed no material
alteration. I found the oscillations of the mercurial barometer
and the vibrations of the aneroid very strongly marked, which
are common signs during a cyclone.

On January 7 the water changed to a dark brown colour, and
the sea was running furiously.

On the 8th, the storm having passed, no material danger
threatened, and the barometer kept unusually high, and the
sky wore a brighter appearance than ordinary. The air was
charged with a great amount of electricity, and incessant
thunder and lightning were the consequences. Before I con-
clude this description, I will add a word or two as to one of
the supposed origins of Cyclones. It appears to me that a
simply flattened spiral stream of electric fluid generates above,
and, expanding in a broad disc, may amply account for the
commencement of a cyclone, by its descending to the surface
of the earth ; and that likewise its onward motion, in such a
direction as the laws of force and gravity drive it, may account
for its continuance, and the oppression and exhaustion of its
force for its termination.

The unequal motion is naturally the consequence of one side
of the disc being more flattened, and causing the cyclone to
advance more rapidly. The descent or settling down of

j'rejiared for Hike's SubTrvpical H,r;hi^._

FubUshed bji Sampson, Im, Marsuin,, !im. & Saariej Crown Uuitdznaa, 188 Fleet So" l.wiUon.

Ch. II.] storm chart. 53

cyclones has in numerous cases been proved. The appearance
of the vortices of violent tornadoes within the body of great
storms is not unfrequent or new.

When about 400 miles from Mauritius, the sea was full of a
floating- mass of matter resembling brown Ectocarpi, It was
very difficult to get up in a bucket. A few days later I
saw much other matter floating about, of a gelatinous nature ;
the old sailors said it is frequently seen after tropical storms.
It appears of the confervoid family.

By the night of the 11th, we neared the Eound and Flat
Islands, two apparently barren rocks, adjacent to the Mauritius ;
and little sleep was there on board, all being anxious to gain
port again, after our long voyage.

Description of the Storm Chart

The cords a a, b B, c c, d d, e e, f f, are the different currents
of air, arranged according to their intensity; the logarithm
annexed to the barometer-stand, is likewise the logarithm for
the base of the triangle, A B c, which is formed by the descend-
ing electric fluid ; the perpendicular erected on the surface of
the globe, and the barometer-stand 29*8, or each following
barometer-stand of decreasing intensity, necessarily increase the
base, perpendicular and hypothenuse, but always keep in the
same proportion to one another. The question how to find the
angle B, the resisting force created by the pressure of the air,
is solved by the following proposition : as base is to radius, so
is the hypothenuse to sine of angle b, which increases propor-
tionately with the base, and vice versa. The atmosphere
surrounding the earth creates a refraction of the electric fluid,
similar to the refraction of the rays of light, and calculated on
the same principle, but in this case always considerino- 29*15 as
the mean of the intensity of the electric fluid ; the rotation of
the earth gives to the fluid a circular motion, and creates there-
by, in opposite hemispheres, a reverse action, but forms at the
same time a set of air currents, which are but the cotangents
to the difl"erent storm-discs.

The only variations in the calculations that can arise, are
those occasioned by local prevailing winds, and the air-currents

54 RATE OF STORM TRAVELLING. [Ch. II.

that are thereby formed. But when, as in this case, the local
prevailing winds are ' trade winds ' or monsoons, the angle
thereby occasioned can almost be guessed, within 10 or 12
degrees ; and as the force of the wind acting upon the fluid is
counteracted by its own spiral motion, the error in the calcula-
tion will be so slight that we may readily take the result for
the true deviation of the fluid, and the veritable rate of the
travelling of the cyclone. The electric fluid descending is
represented in the same angle, as careful researches in the
log of the U. S. steamer ' Monocacy ' proved it to be on
January 5, 6, and 7, 1867. The circles marked with arrows
are the tracks of the cyclone extending from lat. 36 to 20 S.,
and covering an extent of from 40 to 45 degrees of longitude.
The rate of the cyclone's travelling may be estimated at seven
miles per hour, and the situation of the vortex in 57. 30 E.
long., and lat. 27. 14 S.

MAI

P shewino- tlie position oP the United States St«'am I'rigalo 'MONOCACY' in the Soutli Indian Ocean, during llic CYCLONK of the 5*'? B't' 7'^ & 8'■^ JsLnuarv. 1HR7.

Bv Nicholas Tike, l^nilcd Slates Consul, I'ort Louis, Maurilius.

4-7 V8

. Hn a-d. for Pii!*'s Sub-dvptoat Jtambl&i

l^LbUsJted. by Si!m4ison lov.. Mu'-ston, low, 3- SearU, Oo^n fhiddtnifs, lfi8 Vlfet Str' London.

CHAPTER III.

ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS.

First Impressions of Port Louis from the Sea — Landing — A Niglit in an Hotel—
The Harbour — Architecture of Houses — Chaussee — Principal streets — Place
d'Armes — Government House — Government Street — Theatre — Champ de Mars —
Labourdonnais Street — Mineral Spring — Water— New Town — Plaine Verte —
Company's Garjlens — Bazaar — Moka Street — Eailway Depot — Barracks — Col-
lege— Churches — Mosque — Barbers — Masonic Lodges.

Day dawned on January 12, 1867, bright and clear, and the
sun rose brilliantly in a cloudless sky, as we hove in sight of
Mauritius. On nearing the land, the fields of waving canes,
topes of cocoas, and groves of Casuarinas, gave a pleasing im-
pression of the place ; but when approaching Port Louis harbour
the beauty of the view is unsurpassed, and no easy task to
describe.

The varied character of the ranges of basaltic hills reminded
me of the far-famed Organ Mountains in South America.

The city of Port Louis lies in an extensive valley ; and as we
approached the Bell Buoy, the outermost anchorage for ships,
a glorious scene presented itself. In the far distance was the
world-known Peter Both Mountain ; just behind the city rose
the bold sweep of the mountain peak called the Pouce, to the
height of 2,847 feet, wooded to its summit ; to the east lay the
gentle slopes of the Citadel Hill, bastion cro^vned ; to the west,
abrupt and rugged, the steep cliff called Long Mountain Bluff
reared its signal-topped head (whence vessels are seen and
signaled far out at sea) — all formed an entourage few cities can
boast, and rendered it, when viewed from the sea, the most
picturesque in the world.

We dropped anchor about noon inside the Bell Buoy, about
a mile from Port Louis ; and, as soon as we got pratique.

56 ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. [Ch. III.

numerous small plying boats appeared manned by Lascars, who
clamoured for the honour of putting us ashore ; but, as we had
the vessel's boats at command, we declined their invitations.

At 1 o'clock the booming of the heavy guns of the frigate
announced my departure from the good ship ' Monocacy,' which
had carried me over so many thousand miles of ocean, and
through many a storm.

I felt sorry to leave her and her gentlemanly commander,
than whom a braver and more accomplished officer never trod
the deck of a vessel.

As I landed at the granite quay, well adapted for the traffic
of this busy mart of the East, with its ever flowing fountain
of crystal water for the use of the shipping, I was forcibly
struck with the conglomerate appearance of the people, and the
jargon they spoke. Creoles and Coolies, Arabs, Cinghalese,
Malagash, Chinese, and Malabars ; all as eager as in other parts
of the world to take the stranger in, and carry him off, body
and baggage, to the nearest hotel.

I entrusted the latter to one of the most respectable-looking
men ; but, despite the offers of half-a-dozen cab and carriole
drivers, I preferred walking with a gentleman well acquainted
with the city, who met me on my arrival.

We wended our way to the Hotel Univers, said to be the
hest^ through a dirty narrow street ; and, entering a low archway,
we were ushered by a coloured waiter into a damp, ill-ventilated,
low-ceilinged room, in which were a bar and three billiard
tables ; and gentlemen of colour were amusing themselves
knocking over wooden pins placed on the tables with billiard
balls.

Persons of various colours were smoking pipes and cigars,
and drinking wine at little tables placed about the room. The
landlord, a comely, well-spoken Frenchman, soon made his
appearance, asked me to walk upstairs, and showed me into a
room — one of a row facing a street through which ran one of the
filthiest streams my eyes ever rested on. This room was about
ten feet square, and contained an iron bedstead covered with
mosquito netting, a table, and some chairs. Ventilation there
was none except from the door, as not a window had evidently
been open for some time. I made an agreement with the
landlord for two dollars and a half per diem, and then went to

Ch. III.] A BED FULL OF VERMIN. S7

the Custom-house to see after the rest of my baggage. I
returned about 6 o'clock, when I was shown into the dining-
room, which had small tables placed on each side for the
accommodation of the boarders, and a bill of fare was handed
me.

Everything was brought from below in little dishes ; for
instance, I ordered a plate of roast chicken, and a leg was
brought smothered in parsley, with one potato ; a beef steak
— and half-a-dozen such would not supply the appetite of a
hungry man — and everything else was served me in infini-
tesimal doses, miserably cooked.

I strolled out in the evening into the ' Company's Gardens,'
which are opposite to the hotel ; why called gardens I knew
not, as neither flower nor shrub grew there, only some fine
banian and other trees shaded the place.

I returned to my dirty, uncomfortable hotel ; and, after
passing a miserable night, rose at daylight weary and
sick. What with bugs, mosquitoes, and cockroaches, (to say
nothing of centipedes six inches long!) the knocking about of
billiard balls till late, and the loud laughter and gossiping of
the coloured servants, sleep was impossible. The mosquito
curtains were not properly beaten, and whole families lay in
wait for their unsuspecting victim ; the cockroaches ate my
clothes, the ants got into my trunks, lizards crept over the
walls, and rats, bold as lions, were all over the house !

What a delightful place to live in, I thought ; if this is a
specimen of the first hotel in Mauritius, Heaven bless those
obliged to put up with the second and third class, which must
contain vermin enough to destroy a regiment of soldiers.^

Port Louis is the only city of Mauritius, and is situated
in the NW. of the island. It covers an area of about ten
square miles, and is nearly enclosed by a ridge of mountains on
one side, and bounded on the other by the sea. Its fine
natm-al harbour is capable of affording anchorage to a large
number of vessels of heavy burden, and they can ride safely
even in ordinary hurricane weather with due precaution.

The entrance to the channel is through coral reefs, well
marked out by buoys, and has an average depth of thirty-five

' It is but fair to state, things are managed better there now than whenthie was
?7ritten.

SS ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. [Ch. III.

to forty feet, and, within the harbour, of fourteen feet. It is
well defended on the opposite sides by Forts George and
William, and the citadel, which stands back of the city, also
overlooks and commands it.

There are two lights as steering points for ships arriving at
night, one at the light ship at the Bell Buoy, and another at
Flat Island.

The streets of Port Louis are straight, and cross each other at
right angles. They are mostly macadamised, but very roughly
so, and kept tolerably clean, with the exception of the open
sewers and drains, alike offensive to optic and olfactory nerves,
and injurious to public health. The side walks are paved, and
never obstructed by boxes, bales, or anything that can impede
the progress of the pedestrian.

Several rivulets flow through the town, swollen to rushing
torrents in rainy weather, bringing down masses of mud and
debris ; and in dry seasons almost stagnant, exhaling foetid
odours, and adding largely to the malarious condition of the city.

Most of the older houses are of one storey, built of wood ;
but the more recent buildings are of stone. To judge from
their style, each individual must be his own architect, and
follows the whim of the moment rather than any known rules :
this does not at all contribute to the symmetry and beauty
of the streets. I can safely say there is but one really hand-
some edifice in the colony, and that is on the Labourdonnais
estate, in the vicinity of Eiviere du Eempart.

The interior of the houses is very plain, and consists of
drawing and dining rooms, and a few sleeping apartments, which
all have the outer hurricane shutters, crossed with a strong Z
shaped bar, that gives them a very monotonous appearance.
Nearly all possess small dependencies called pavilions, which
contain two or three bedrooms for guests.

The principal street for shops is the Chaussee, nearly the
oldest part of the town, built chiefly of wood and old-fashioned-
looking, a great contrast to the interior of the shops. There,
all is of the latest Parisian fashion, and you may purchase any
article for a lady's toilette, from a Lyons silk dress to plain
English calico. Jewellers' shops shine resplendent, where
objects of French luxe are to be found up to any price : gold
and gems, especially diamonds, the favourite Creole bijou,

Ch. III.]

PORT LOUIS.

59

dazzle the eyes and set you wondering how so small a place
can find purchasers for such luxurious articles.

A curious feature in this and other streets is the juxtaposition
of one of these elegant magazines with a Chinese store, where
are retailed, salt fish, charcoal, wines, porter, cocoa-nut oil, rice,
wood, lard, and the thousand etceteras required in a household ;
all of which are sold in the smallest possible quantities for the
convenience of customers. I am obliged to confess that all the
Fiver's essences in the one shop do not overpower the abominable
odours of the other ; Port Louis at times can rival Cologne in
the latter item.

STATUE OF LABUUKDONNAIS, PLACE D'ARMES.

Between the Chaussee and Eoyal Street lies the Place d'Armes,
in front of the quays, shaded by banian, boisnoir {Acacia
LehhecV) and the flamboyant of Madagascar {Poinciana regia).

I gazed on the latter when I landed, in astonishment ; they
were covered with their magnificent scarlet, yellow, and white
flowers, lying on the soft delicate green of the foliage and
forming the loveliest bouquets I had ever seen on one
tree.

On the left hand of the quay are the Custom-house, marine
stores, and large covered sheds, for the landing of goods and
sale of merchandise ; and on the right are merchants' offices,
provision stores, &c.

Just facing the landing is a finely-executed statue, in bronze,

6o ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. [Ch. III.

of M. de Labourdonnais, the best and ablest of the French
G-overnors, to whom Mauritius is largely indebted. It is the
first object that greets the eye as you step on shore, and it does
not need much stretch of imagination to fancy he is welcoming
the stranger to the shores for which he spent so many years of
untiring devotion.

On either side of the Place, are the Gruard's room and
offices of the Commissariat Department, the Chamber of Com-
merce, broker's and auctioneer's rooms, and the Oriental Bank
— a large two-storied building — the principal bank here.

Seats are placed under these beautiful trees ; and there
planters and merchants discuss all the affairs of the island, and
the ladies say all the gossip and scandal too ! A wide mac-
adamised road runs through the Place, and on each side of it is
a cab and carriole-stand. The fares for these vehicles have a
fixed and pretty reasonable tariff, except on certain holidays
when the drivers are allowed to fix their own prices.

At the upper end facing the sea is the ungainly, miserably-
constructed Grovernment House — the city residence of the
Grovernor — where the legislative councils, levees, government
balls, &c., are held. It was in course of erection when the
English took the island, and they seem to have completed it on
the old French plan.

The continuation of the Chaussee, Eoyal Street, extends
nearly to the limits of the city on the north side. Most of the
stores and shops here are of stone, and marvellous is the variety
of goods to be found in what would be a plain ironmonger's else-
where. Adjoining Grovernment House, are the offices of the
Colonial Secretary and other officials, in a low shabby build-
ing, fortunately better-looking inside than out, or the gentle-
men might feel they were sent to prison for so many hours
daily of their official life.

A narrow street runs alongside Grovernment House, and in a
row of dirty-looking tenements are the Audit and Surveyor-
G-eneral's offices, Savings Bank, and, meanest of all, the Post
Office ; then, a little higher up, the Police Court, Internal
Eevenue departments, and lawyers' rooms. There is a new
Post Office in course of erection near the Custom-house.^ It is
to be hoped that this new light and airy place will give a pro-
portionate impetus to the activity of the clerks on mail day.

piow completed.

Ch. III.]

THE THEATRE.

6i

This small street opens out into the spacious one of Grovern-
ment Street, in which stands a theatre, once, they tell me,
elegantly decorated ; but alas ! all its pristine splendour has
departed, and it is now in a woefully dilapidated condition.
Nearly every year a troupe of French actors and opera singers
come from Europe, and divide their time between Mauritius
and Bourbon. I cannot say much in favour of those I have
heard. A curious spectacle is presented when the house is full,
with its mixture of white and colour, all en grande toilette.
The only English acting is when the officers and men of the
different regiments give an evening's entertainment in the
theatre, and they generally draw good houses.

THEATRE, PORT LOUIS.

Opposite the theatre is Morillon's ice-house, where young
Mauritius most does congregate between the acts, and consumes
any amount of gateaux, bonbons, ice-creams, &c., not forgetting
either the stronger stimulants of sherry and soda and their
congeners.

Above this are the large blocks of buildings, where the Courts
are held, municipal business transacted, the head-quarters of
the police, and the main entrance to the gaol.

There are some very pretty dwelling-houses higher up, with
tastefully-decorated gardens in front.

Parallel with this are Church Street, of Flore Mauricien

F

62 MAURITIUS. [Ch. III.

fame (dear to all lovers of gateaux, pates, &c.), Bourbon and
Corderie Streets, all terminating in the Champ de Mars.

This is a fine grassy plain, unmistakably once a large crater,
the walls of which on the north-west were broken out seaward.
There is not a tree or shrub to be seen on it, strange to say :
when, with a little trouble in planting trees round it, a splendid
promenade might be made — so much needed in a place that
suffers from heat eight months in the year, as Port Louis does.
At the foot of the plain the Mauritius Cricket Club has erected
a pretty pavilion, and laid out a square for that healthy and in-
vigorating amusement ; but, by the same perversity that seems
to govern everything in this island, they seem to play most in
summer, at a temperature when you feel disinclined even to
walk, to let alone running insanely after cricket balls.

In the upper part stands a stone monument, twenty-five feet
high, erected to the memory of M. de Malartic, one of the
French Governors.

Eound the Chabip de Mars runs a race-course, kept in fine
order by the Mauritius Turf Club. The race-stands are not per-
manent, but put up once a year just as they are required for the
races.

Pretty country villas — the residences of the families of mer-
chants, Grovernment officers, and others — surround the plain. A
road leads up the Pouce Mountain from the head of the Champ
de Mars, and country houses are built a good way up. Two
other fine streets are Rempart and St. Greorge (which join at
the top), and their continuation, Wellington Street, that runs up
into the large plain of the Champ de Lort ; but these are prin-
cipally for dwelling-houses, most of which have gardens in front.

Nearly the only shops in these streets are the indefatigable
John Chinaman's. In every angle of every street you will find
him in his one, or at most two, rooms, which serve for house and
shop ; with the inevitable rows of sardines, olive oil, porter, and
Warren's blacking.

Labourdonnais Street, that extends from mountain to moun-
tain on either side of the city, crosses the above. At its
extreme end, under the base of the Signal range, is the residence
of Mr. E. Mayer, where the inhabitants formerly congregated
in the morning to drink of a mineral spring, said to be equal
to the famed Cheltenham waters in England.

Ch. III.} MINERAL SPRING. 63

It was discovered by Mr. Tiedman, and a careful analysis
gives the following results: —

Carbonate of magnesia "( -.,«

lime .J

Chloride of sodium ........ 50*00

„ ,, magnesium ....... 6*00

„ „ lime 7'75

Sulphate of magnesia ........ 3200

,, ,, lime ........ 6-25

Oxyde of iron ......... 6"7o

„ „ silica ......... 1*75

I tasted the spring, and should think it would be very effica-
cious in the diseases such waters are used for. It has not been
open to the public for some years, but the gentlemanly pro-
prietor supplies the water gratis to anyone applying for it.
Like many other good things within everybody's reach, little
advantage is taken of it; although large sums are spent
yearly in importing quack medicines of similar properties from
Europe, not half so useful as this would be.

The whole city is well supplied with water from three canals.
One of them is brought round the base of the Signal Moun-
tain, is led across the Champ de Lort, down a ravine, and up to
the Champ de Mars, which it traverses, and then passes into
the New Town behind the Citadel Hill.

Nearly the whole of this new part of the city, as ftir as the
Valley Pitot, has sprung up within a few years, since the water
was laid on. It was hoped that its healthy situation would
soon render it quite a fashionable place — a sort of West End —
and some very nice houses were built. One part rejoices in the
name of the Boulevard Victoria, but it seems a failure as to its
ever becoming fashionable.

The Plaine Verte runs at right angles with Eoyal Street, is
about a mile and a half long, and is well laid out.

It was here in former days that executions took place, before
hanging was substituted for beheading.

There is a little covered market-place, where meat, fruit, and
vegetables are sold — a great convenience to those in this
neighbourhood, who live a long way from the large market of
Port Louis.

A fine promenade extends its whole length, well shaded with
trees, and fountains at intervals ; one, a nude female figure, with

64 PUBLIC GARDENS. [Ch. III.

a cornucopia under her arm,, from which gushes a limpid
stream, is mounted on rough rockwork, about ten feet high, in-
terlaced with ferns and creepers, and surrounded by an ever-
green cassia hedge, but all sadly out of order.

In the heart of the town are the Company's Grardens, guarded
at their entrance from the Chaussee by two stone lions. Once,
they say, this was a delightful promenade for ladies, all planted
with elegant flowering shrubs and creepers, with a fountain,
from which meandered little rills in all directions, and eveiy
tree had a green turf bank at its foot, but, alas — turf, flowers,
fountain, and ladies, are but things of the past ! In a desert
space, innocent of all verdure save the over-arching banian
trees, stands a bronze monument of Mr. Adrien d'Epinay
on a stone pedestal, and surrounded with an iron railing: a
memorial of the dead in the place of the once life-giving fountain.
Instead of fair dames, in their elegant Parisian toilettes, pro-
menading, you see only groups of coloured nurses with their
charges, scolding and gossiping, or chaffering with the vendors
of cakes or cocoa-nut -water.

The gardens are traversed by a small street, dividing the old
from the more modern part. The latter is laid out in winding
shady walks, separated by high cassia hedges ; and at the end is
a fine bronze fountain, constantly playing into a large stone
basin, round which are seats, where in an evening are groups of
Creoles, smoking, chatting, and flirting, though the latter is
principally confined to the alleys.

Opposite this fountain stands the Mauritius Club House,
where the gentry, coloured and white, particularly those who
reside in the country and come into the city daily for business,
take tiffin, smoke their Havannah, sip their claret, or play a
game at billiards.^

Near this is a large gloomy building, shaded by rows of the
melancholy filas-trees, whence issues daily the ' Commercial
Grazette,' the only English newspaper, printed by the only
steam press in the island.

From the quays runs a narrow street, at the top of whicli are
the Civil and Military Hospitals, and close to them the large
depot for Indian immigrants.

' This cliil) has proved a failure, and the building is now used for merchants'
offices.

Ch. III.] A BAZAAR. 65

The Bazaar, or Market House, is worthy of special notice.
The whole is surrounded by tall iron railings, and a number of
gateways give entrance from the different streets. A wide
avenue traverses the whole of the bazaar ; and on each side
are large covered sheds, with a good raised pavement, on which
the produce is exposed.

On the right hand from Queen Street are the fruit stalls,
where some kinds of fruit are always to be found, according to
season, except soon after a hurricane.

The principal are bananas, cocoas, costard apples, mangoes,
litchis, pines, limes, citrons, alligator pears, sack, papaye,
pistaches, and a host of other tropical fruits. With some few
exceptions, I found them at first insipid or too sweet, in com-
parison with the fruits of more temperate zones. Oranges and
grapes do not thrive here, though I have seen some miserable
little bunches of the latter sold for a dollar a pound. Bananas
are always in the market, and there is a great variety, from the
little Gringeli, of two inches, to the red Plantain, over a foot
long.

Oranges and apples are frequently for sale, but the former
come from Seychelles, Cape, or Bourbon, and the latter from
Australia, or brought in the ice ships from New York. On
arrival, these fruits fetch from sixpence to a shilling each.

On the left hand side of the market are the vegetables, and I
believe there is a better supply than in any market out of
Europe. The principal are potatoes, native, Bourbon, and
Australian ; squashes, cabbages, red and white, brocoli, turnips,
carrots, peas, beans, onions, patates, &c. &c.

There are numberless green vegetables sold, used by both
Indian and Creole population. Many of them, called Bredes,
are made into a sort of bouillon with a little salt meat, and
form a standing dish from the highest to the lowest, eaten with
rice, the invariable adjunct of the breakfast and dinner tables.
The Brede Martin {Solanum nigrum) and a few others habit
has rendered palatable ; and they are, I believe, very wholesome,
or as a Creole would tell you, ' bien rafraichissants,' their defi-
nition of a dozen or two different bredes, tisanes, and messes of
all sorts.

This is a busy, bustling scene ; every one must go or send to
market every day for fresh provisions, and the bargaining on all

66 THE MARKET. [Ch. III.

sides in the high-pitched voices of both Creoles and Indians
make it a very Babel. Here sits a fine buxom Malabar woman,
tempting you with her nice fresh greeneries, and thankful if
you spend only a halfpenny.

There a sulky fellow who growls and snaps at everybody. In
one corner a group of men and women chattering over some
deficient sous, and whose attention you have a difficulty in
attracting sufficiently to supply your wants, which at last they
do, continuing their wrangle all the time.

In solitary state apart, sits another with a few shillings' worth
of things before him or her, stolidly indifferent as to whether
you buy or not.

Here you can purchase the strange stiff bouquets so much
prized, from threepence up to five dollars.

Large cages of native birds, particularly the pretty scarlet
cardinals with their brown mates, love birds ; and greenish
yellow canaries that sing so sweetly, are offered for sixpence a
pair. Beautiful foreign birds are frequently for sale, brought
by sailors from the Brazils, Australia, India, and the brightest
of all from New Gruinea, but they fetch high prices. Behind
the fruit stalls is a place set apart for dried provisions, sold
mostly by Arabs, who expose their wares on the pavement in
small sacks, and strong Indian baskets.

Beans of almost every known species, rice, maize, spices,
chilis, coffee, cigars, seeds, and drugs are in abundance — also
dried herbs. There is scarcely a leaf or bark of indigenous or
exotic plant or tree that is not used by Creole or Indian for
some ailment. They have the most profound faith in herb
teas or tisanes ; and the latter know, unfortunately, too well the
dire properties of the many vegetable poisons in the island,
and use them freely too when prompted by revenge or other
passions.

Beyond the Arabs is a long line of tables for breads principally
sold by Creoles, made into small French loaves, fetching a
moderate price. Still further back is a row of stalls, kept
entirely by young Malabars, of every conceivable thing in a
small way. Most of them speak a little English, of which
they are very proud.

Woe betide the unlucky stranger who goes into the line un-
prepared. A rush is made each one vociferating, ' What you

Ch. III.] - PROVISIONS. 67

want ? Come to me, he no good,' and so on, offering you the
most incongruous articles. Should you have been rash enough
to ask for anything, you will be deluged with it. They have
quick eyes to discern a stranger, and some of the young scamps
quite patronise you. At least three or four times as much as
is meant to be taken is asked, as they know they will be beaten
down. I once saw a friend asked sixpence a dozen for buttons,
and for fun he ran the gauntlet the whole length of the line,
and by the time he got to the bottom, the fellow ran after
him, and offered the same buttons for a shilling a gross !

Farquhar Street divides the upper from the lower bazaar. The
latter is for meat, fish, &c. On the left hand of it are the meat
stalls, where very fair beef, Creole and Madagascar, may be
had from five-pence to ten-pence a pound. Mutton is sold by
the joint, at extravagant prices, rarely fine ; and goat's flesh is
so often substituted for mutton, that a piece of the skin is
generally left on to prove its identity. The veal is coarse and'
red, and pork is principally sold by Chinamen. Few English
or French will eat the latter, as it is considered so unwholesome
in a tropical climate ; besides, the way of feeding pigs here
makes one shudder.

Sometimes a fine pig is offered for sale from some newly
arrived vessel, and then the pork is bought up readily. The
Chinamen are the great consumers of pork, and at their numer-
ous feasts roast five or six pigs, often, if not too large, whole.

Below the meat are, poultry, eggs, &c. Greese, turkeys,,
ducks, pigeons, guinea-fowl, manilla ducks and fowls, can be
bought, but they are very dear, and miserably fed.

The opposite side is almost exclusively for fish, and like all
the rest of the bazaar, is kept very clean.

A stream of water pours constantly over the sloping tables,
so that the fish look always nice and fresh.

I suppose no place in the world can boast such a variety of
fish, and many of them of such brilliant colours, that I can
only compare them to the gorgeous plumaged birds of India or
South America. The most esteemed are the mullets. Dame
Berry, red and spotted vieilles, corne, cordonnier, rougets.
pike, eels, and others. Fine crabs and crayfish (called here
lobsters) are very abundant ; small shellfish, indifferent oysters,
and the cat fish, are sold in great quantities. Large sharks.

68 SANITARY REGULATIONS. [Ch. III.

rays, and other monsters are also cut up in slices, and sold to
the Indians.^

Below the fish stalls is a space set apart for the sale of cattle
and goats, but few of them are in fine condition.

In the centre of this market is erected a stand, on which is
a large pair of scales, attended by a municipal officer, and any
one being aggrieved by receiving short weight, can have the
article re-weighed, and if found wanting, the seller is arrested,
heavily fined, and loses his standing in the market.

The bazaar is well regulated, and under the supervision of
inspectors who examine everything before it is allowed to be
offered for sale, and any article not perfectly fresh is at once
condemned and confiscated. A small tax is imposed for the
rent of the stalls, as well as on all dead and live animals. By
an ordinance of September 1, 1855, in consequence of cattle
disease at the Cape, whence came large supplies to the colony,
all persons having beasts for slaughter, are compelled to have
them examined by a veterinary surgeon, at the municipality
slaughter-house, some distance out of the city. They must, after
passing the surgeon, who has the right to decide if fit or not,
be killed immediately. Should any animal after death present
symptoms of disease, the carcass is ordered off, and taken in a
boat to the Bell Buoy, and flung overboard, when it is quickly
devoured by the sharks which swarm outside the reefs. The
greater part of the vegetables sold in the bazaar are grown by
Indians, in the environs of Port Louis, Aux Failles, Moka, &c.,
and are brought in small donkey carts long before daylight.

In one corner of the fish market is always a plentiful supply
of coffee, cocoa tendre, or the soft white suV)stance in the cocoa
before the nut sets hard in its shell, and cocoa-nut milk, rice,
and other cakes, with which the vendors regale themselves,
and these often form the only food they take till their return
home towards noon, of course including the inevitable pipe,

' Some years ago a calculation was made of the amount of fish supposed to be
consumed daily in Mauritius. The following was the result: —
2,000 lbs. of fresh sea fish,
1,000 „ salt ,,

150 „ fresh water ,,

600 paquets shrimps and camerons,
300 „ oysters.

The above amount gave the annual sum of ^220,000. A correct calculation made
at the present day would most likely give a great increase on the above. This
does not include imported salt fish.

Ch. III.] THE RAILWAY. 69

too often filled with opium, gunga, or some other deleterious
narcotic.

J rom the lower end of the bazaar runs Moka Street, and in
it, facing Eempart Street, stands the old French Government
House, a two-storied stone building, with a large dome in the
centre, which lights the interior. It is now occupied by a firm
of English merchants as a warehouse for the storage of goods.
It is of considerable interest in connection with the history of
the island, being the only city residence of the French
Grovernors during their possession of the Isle of France. Moka
Street is long and dusty, the great outlet to the city on the
western side, with more traffic than perhaps any other, but
principally filled with little provision shops, held by Chinamen
or Lascars, canteens, &c. &c. Nearly every shop in it (unlike
the rest of the city) is lit up at night, and I have often strolled
up it after dark, greatly amused watching the strange manners
of the various races. All Eastern nations are just as much
addicted to story telling as in the old days of Haroun al-Raschid,
and in nearly every little shop in the streets are groups eagerly
listening to some one relating stories as marvellous as the
Arabian Nights.

At gunfire, or eight o'clock, all the Lascars burn a kind of
frankincense in their scales, and about the shops, muttering
prayers over it, to keep away the devils, to bring them good
sales the ensuing day, and render the house lucky.

Leading out of this street is the Central Eailway depot, a
fine stone building, well arranged and convenient. From this
station all the trains leave for both Northern and Midland
lines. The fare for the north line is three dollars and three
quarters, and for the other four dollars and a quarter. The
roads are admirably laid, its rolling stock is first class, and it
is well conducted. Its numerous stations, plainly but sub-
stantially built, and well constructed bridges, reflect great
credit on the firm of Messrs. Brassey and Company, the con-
tractors for this railway. Telegraphs have been lately added,
and few places in the world can boast a more convenient and
comfortable arrangement of carriages, &c. — whether it will
ever be a profitable concern remains to be seen.

Just beyond the depot are the Line Barracks, built of stone,
on one side two stories high, and the whole substantially en-

70

CATHEDRAL.

[Ch. IIL

closed with strong walls ; having two large gates, one in
Barrack and the other in Moka Street. The square contains
twelve acres, and makes a fine parade and exercising ground
for the troops. They are capacious enough for some thousands
of soldiers ; but since the epidemic, the military have nearly
abandoned them, and now they are partially occupied by the
police. There is a talk of pulling them down, and building-
new ones on the high land at Plaines Wilhems^ which I should
think is a much more sensible arrangement ; for it seems to me
to have been a great mistake to have a barracks in the centre of

CATHEDRAL, PORT LOUIS.

a densely populated city like Port Louis. Along the southern
walls runs a ditch, which may originally have been intended as
a moat, but now receives a good deal of sewage water, making-
it a most unpleasant locality.

In College Street, in a large enclosure, stands the Eoyal
College, an irregular building, dating from 1791. One side of
it is employed as a Museum, and here the meetings are held
of the Eoyal Society of Arts and Sciences.

The principal edifices for religious worship in Port Louis are
St. James's Cathedral, on a slight rise between Pondriere Street,
Denis and Labourdonnais Streets ; the Eoman Catholic Cathedral,
in Government Street ; the Church of the Immaculee Concep-
tion in St. George Street ; the Scotch Church, a little above the

Ch. III.] GOING DOWN HILL. 71

bazaar ; the Independent Chapel, in Poudriere Street, and the
Mohammedan Mosque, in Eojal Street. There are a few other
temporary places of worship, which are mentioned elsewhere,
and a Lascar temple near Plaine Verte.

Taken altogether. Port Louis is a quaint, old-fashioned
place, and I fear it is not destined, at all events for some time
to come, to be much modernised and improved.

A painful picture is presented by the endless notices of ' To
Let ' on almost every other door in many of the streets. Fine
old stores, once heaped with costly merchandise, and let at fabu-
lous prices on lease, now fetch a few dollars a month for one or
two rooms (all the rest shut up), let most probably to some
coloured cobbler or cigar vendor, where he works, and resides
with his generally numerous, and with rare exceptions, noisy
and dirty family.

The depreciation of property in Port Louis has gone steadily
on since the fever. The white population is gradually deserting
it for the healthier districts. I do not think the day is far
distant when it will be almost entirely in the hands of the
coloured races, unless a total change is made in its sanitary
condition, either by drainage or some other means of altering
the present defective sewerage. The Indians also must be
compelled to conform to European habits of cleanliness, and
utterly give up their own antagonistic ideas on the subject, before
this city can be a desirable residence, in spite of its being the
capital of the ' Grem of the East.'

CHAPTER IV.

PAMPLEMOUSSES GAEDENS.

M. Poivre— Description of Gardens— Centre Avenue —Obelisk— Lakes- Sago
Walk— Avenue of Fine Trees— Effects of Hurricane— Nursery— Boabab—
Grassy Slope— Mr. Home's Cottage— Carious Trees near it— Dr. Meller^s
House -Fernery— Bernadin St.-Pierre— Loss of the St.-Geraa— Captain's
Death— And that of the Two Lovers— Tombs of Paul and Virginia.

At the distance, of seven miles from Port Louis, in the district
of Pamplemousses, are the celebrated Botanical aardens,founded
by M. Poivre in 1768. The island is greatly indebted to this
gentleman for the introduction of the clove, nutmeg, and other
spices, besides a large variety of useful and ornamental trees,
procured with great difficulty and expense, from both hemi-
spheres.

These gardens have been from time to time replenished from
the various botanical gardens of Europe, Cape Town, Australia,
and India, and now form the special attraction of the colony.

The numerous and shady avenues, and the comfortable little
thatched pavilions scattered in all directions, impervious to the
weather, render this a favourite resort of the citizens of Port
Louis, on Sundays and holidays, especially during the intense
heat of summer.

These gardens have been recently enclosed with a substantial
iron railing imported from Europe. The entrance is through
massive iron gates, and on the right there stands a pretty little
lodge for the gatekeeper.

As far as the eye can reach, a long straight avenue extends,
thickly lined on each side with the Latania glaucophylla
palm (Mauritius), and towering above them to a great
height are the slender stems of the areca-nut palm {Areca
catechu\ sometimes, but erroneously, called the Betel nut.

Ch. IV.] THE GARDENS. 73

with its small tuft of feathery leaves forming its crown. Below
these leaves are clusters of bright yellow fruit, which the
Indians and Malays chew, with the leaf of the Betel plant
(^Piper Chavica) and lime. This fruit possesses intoxicating
properties, and powerfully stimulates the salivary glands and
digestive organs, and diminishes the perspiration of the skin.

In the far distance, in the centre of the avenue, is an obelisk,
erected to the memory of those who have introduced into
Mauritius either useful plants or animals.

Round this monument are some fine specimens of a rare and
beautiful palm, the Latania aurea (Duncan), from Rodriques.
The natives of that island build their houses with the outer
slabs of its trunk ; make the rafters of its leaf- stalks, which
sometimes attain the length of six to ten feet, with a diameter
of two to four inches thick, and thatch them with its leaves.

From the obelisk we pass over a little bridge, spanning a clear
stream, down a long winding path, so densely shaded by the
Traveller's Tree (Ravenala Madagascariensis\ Vacoas {Panda-
nus utilis), Raffias {Sagus Rwffia), and others, that it is imper-
vious to the sun at noonday, and gives a better idea of tropical
scenery than any part of the gardens. Here and there are
clumps of the feathery Bamboo, which prettily conceal little
pavilions with seats and tables, where you may breakfast or dine
quite undisturbed by passers by.

The extension of this walk is bordered with the Stevenson
palm {Stevensonia grandifolia), and passes the new rosary,
where are thousands of rose trees grafted or budded with all the
varieties of Europe, except the loveliest of all, the Moss rose,
which has either not been introduced, or will not thrive.

There is a small lake, surrounded by a grassy bank, and full
of blue and white lotus plants, that in the season cover its
surface with their large blossoms. There are also some fine
specimens of the lace, or lattice leaf plant (Ouvirandra fenes-
tralis), with its curious skeleton leaves, dichotomous spiked
inflorescence, and pretty white flowers which show their heads
just above the water.

Further on is a large lake, containing several pretty islands,
two of which are approached by bridges, and have seats under
the trees for visitors. The centre islands are inaccessible, and
are covered with the traveller's tree, palms, casuarinas^ and a

74 PLANTS. [Ch. IV

tangle of flowering shrubs and underwood. There are two fine
white swans on its waters, presented by Lady Barkly, and a
handsome black Australian swan, which some time ago unfor-
tunately lost its mate. It follows the white ones about, but the
poor fellow gets terribly snubbed by his snowy comrades.
They are all quite tame, and eat from the hand. This lake is
full of the celebrated gouramier, and golden dace, also of
monster eels, one of which is so tame that whenever the swans
come to be fed, he pops up his ugly head, and takes his share
too.

Half encircling this lake is a winding alley of fine sago palms
(Cycas circinalis\ and rare shrubs and flowers are planted
between it and the water's edge in clumps in the grass. The
fruit of these palms is eaten in the Moluccas, and an inferior
kind of flour is made by j^ounding its kernels in a mortar. It
also yields a gum which, when coagulated in the air, is applied
to malignant sores, and it excites suppuration in an incredibly
short time.

Terminating the sago walk, rise about a dozen magnificent
specimens of the Oreodoxa regia palm (Cuba), far exceeding in
beauty those of the King's Grardens at Eio Janeiro.

The walk round the other half of this lake, is bordered with
rows of the Licuala horrida palm, rightly named, for every
stem and leaf is bristling with thousands of sharp spines.

In a corner between this lake and the garden wall is a small
plantation of the China grass cloth plant {Boehmeria nivea),
the fibre of which is said to be worth in the European and
American markets, about 80^. to lOOl. the ton. It is cultivated
here as an experiment, for propagation and distribution to the
planters.

Turning to the left on entering the gardens, are two walks
shaded by magnificent trees, the most remarkable of which are
the following : — the Lecythis nfiinor^ with its large fruit in the
form of an urn, from which the top spontaneously separates
like a lid. The Bassia latifolia, or Illipie tree, the fruit of
which, when pressed, yields a large quantity of fatty oil, used
in India for lamps, soap making, and food, and also employed
medicinally in cutaneous disorders. The Strychnos nux vomica,
or Strychnine tree, which produces the well-known poison-seeds ;
its bark is also supposed to be v^ry poisonous, though they say

Ch. IV.] PETER BOTH. 75

the pulp in which the deadly nuts are imbedded is eatable.
The Camphor tree {Garajphora officiarum), from which the
Chinese obtain camphor by boiling pieces of its roots, wood and
branches, until the camphor begins to adhere to the stirring-
rod. This is a noble umbrageous tree, from three to five feet
in diameter. (The hard camphor of Sumatra and Borneo, is
obtained from the Dryobalanops CaTnphora, quite a different
tree). The Hymencea Gourbaril and HymenoBa verrucosa : the
former is the West Indian Locust tree, with a close-grained,
tough wood, in great request for tree-nails, used in the plank-
ing of vessels, and the latter is an East Indian tree ; both yield
the copal used for the well-known varnish. The Ghry-
sophyllum, or Star Apple, producing a fruit much esteemed
in its native country (India) as an article for dessert. The
Semecarpus AnacardiuTn, the ' marking nut tree ' of commerce ;
from its seeds the varnish of Sylhet is obtained ; it is extremely
dangerous to some constitutions, as the skin when rubbed with
it becomes inflamed, and covered with pimples that are difficult
to heal, and the fumes are said to produce painful swellings
and inflammation. The Tectona grandis, or Teak tree, that
yields the well-known and valuable timber. The Adenanthera
pavonina and the Pterocarpus santalinus, both giving red
and scarlet dyes ; the pretty smooth bright-red seeds of the
former are made into necklaces, baskets, &c. ; and the Ptero-
carpus draco, or Dnigon's Blood tree, that furnishes the dragon's
blood of commerce, which is sometimes, but improperly called
gum dragon.

The ground under the shade of these interesting trees has
been recently laid out in beds for the better cultivation of
shade-loving plants, or rather plants that require shade in
so hot a climate, such as begonias, fuchias, gloxinias, gesnerias,
&c. &c. This pleasant spot is close to another alley of fine
palms, arecas of different species, and at intervals are seats,
from which a good view of the Peter Both Mountain is obtained.
Many of these palms are 100 years old. Sad destruction was made
among them by the hurricane of March 1868, and as it would
take a great amount of time and labour to replace the old trees
by young ones, and the soil would require entirely renovating,
mahogany trees are being planted in their places. These hand-
some trees are grown from seeds sent by Dr. Hooker, Director

76

LAKE SCENE.

[Ch. IV.

of the Eoyal Grardens at Kew, and are, I believe, the first planted
in Mauritius.

Near to this alley are two other newly introduced trees, the
Siphonia elastica, or India-rubber tree. Nearly the whole of
the India-rubber used in England is procured from the
Siphonias of Brazil and Gruiana.

In the centre of the gardens, a portion of ground is set apart
for a nursery. This produces a large supply of young plants
for distribution in the colony. In 1865 over 50,000 young

TROPICAL TJUCE SCENE.

trees were distributed. New varieties of the sugar-cane are
also propagated in this nursery, to enable the planters to re-
place the exhausted varieties now cultivated in the island.

To the right of the main entrance are rows of new exotics
and beds of bright-coloured flowers and shrubs, all classified and
named. Beyond these is one of the pleasantest parts of the
gardens ; a grassy slope extending downwards to another large
lake, that has also a pretty island encircled with rock work.
Raffias and Vacoas.

From the leaves of the Eaffia, before they are fully unfolded,
the Malagash make hats, mats, and a great variety of useful

Ch. IV.] GIGANTIC TREE. 'j-j

and ornamental articles. The scales of its pericarp, when
polished, are sometimes used as an ornament for the outsides
of Yv^orkboxes, baskets, &c.

Its petioles or leaf stalks are employed for palisades and
rafters in hut building, and when kept dry will last from twenty
to thirty years. The vacoa is often called the Screw pine, from
the peculiar spiral form the leaves assume in their convolutions
round the trunk. Under the crown hangs the beautiful but
uneatable amber-coloured fruit. The leaves are narrow and
flat, and the natives plait them into mats, baskets, and sugar
bags. - The latter are universally used in the packing of sugar,
and one would imagine ought to be a source of profit to the
poor in the country ; but, like so many other useful productions
growing with little trouble over the island, its cultivation is so
much neglected, that the greater part of the bags used are
imported from Madagascar, and some other of the adjacent
islands.

Out of this lake flows a stream, with a pretty fall of water
that passes under an iron bridge into the ravine below.

A very attractive feature on the grassy slope is a gigantic
baobab (^Adansonia digitata), measuring thirty feet round at
the collum. It has a singular fruit, about a foot and a half long,
covered with a rough brown coat, and hanging from a very long
thread-like stem from the branches. In Western Africa, its
native country, it is said to live thousands of years, and grows
so large that whole families can reside in its hollowed trunk. ^

Scattered over the turf is a small collection of coniferous
trees, natives of both hemispheres. Many of them have only
been planted about three or four years, but they would scarcely
be excelled in beauty in their own climates. ^

There are very fine specimens of araucarias, dammaras, pinus,
two or three specimens of thujas, cupressus, juniperus, and
callitris.

This collection is being added to yearly; and the graceful
forms of these exotics mingled, with groups of bananas, travel-

' Adanson notices one which three centuries before had been observed by two
English travellers, and on excavating the trunk of this tree, there was found an
inscription they had written, covered with 300 ligneous layers; from this they
were enabled to judge how much the gigantic plant had grown in 300 years, and
comparing it with the diameter of the tree, it was estimated that the probable
duration of its existence was upwards of 5,000 years.

G

78 TROPICAL VEGETATION. [Ch. IV

ler's trees, and the more regular-shaped exogens, particularly
the fine tamarinds {Tarwcirindus indica), have a picturesque
and striking effect to a stranger's eye.

In the midst of all this wealth of tropical vegetation, here and
there one starts with delight, as one finds some of our northern
climate's pet flowers. Close to the monstrous Baobab is a bed
where the English honeysuckle blooms in wild profusion, and
most of us are tempted to break the strict rules against gather-
ing flowers, in order to take away a spray that recalls so
vividly ' auld lang syne.' Passing along the upper part of the
grassy slope, over a stone bridge, covered with the large blue
thunbergia, you see the cottage of the sub-director on the left,
with the chief's offices.

In front of Mr. Home's, is a fine Satin-wood tree (^Swietenia
Ghloroxylon), which, in its native country, grows to the height
of 100 feet ; and a handsome plant of the Cow-itch [Mucwna
pruriens). Not far from the cottage stand two splendid Bread-
fruit trees, not only the oldest in the island, but supposed to
be the parents of all the rest of this beautiful and useful tree
in Mauritius. Near these, by the side of a canal, grows one of
the Carludovica palTtiata, from the unexpanded leaves of which
are made the famous Panama hats.

Then come rows of the elegant feathery cocoa-nut, and Cocos
plumosa, and the majestic Talipot palm [Gorypha umhracidi-
fera). The Cinghalese make mats from the leaves of this
palm, which serve to construct their temporary huts. These
mats are so light that a man can easily carry enough for a tent
capable of containing twenty people ; and, with a few sticks
from the nearest jungle, two or three men will run it up in
about twenty minutes.

There is another walk shaded by the Grommuti palm
(Saguerus saccharifer), from which sugar (called 'jaggery' in
India) is made in the Moluccas, Ceylon, and the Philippine
Islands. Its juice, when fermented, produces ' toddy,' that
arrack is distilled from in Batavia. A fine tree has been known
to yield ninety pints of toddy in a day. From its trunk, when
exhausted of its sweet juice, a good deal of the sago of com-
merce is obtained, and one tree will give about 200 pounds of
sago.

The hairy-looking fibre that envelopes its trunk at the base

Ch. IV.] BERNADIN ST.-PIERRE. 79

of its petioles is used by upholsterers as a substitute for horse-
hair to stuff cushions, and is called gommuti or giou fibre, and
serves also for caulking vessels, and making ropes.

There are some of the Garyotaurens palms, vs^hich also yield
sugar, toddy and sago. The palms giving the largest quantity
of sago are the Sagus Icevis and S. genuina, the former of
which often produces as much as 800 pounds from one trunk.

In a pretty enclosure on the right is the house of Dr. Meller,
the Director of the Grardens,' with its verandah completely
hidden behind masses of the lilac bourgainvillsea, the scarlet
ipomsea, and monster passion flowers.

Under the supervision of this accomplished botanist, and the
energetic management of Mr. Home, the gardens have greatly
improved, and new and useful plants are being constantly in-
troduced into the colony.

Close to Dr. Meller's house is the Fernery, admirably situated
on a rocky descent, with a pretty sparkling stream at its foot.
It contains many hundreds of ferns and orchids, about 150 of
which are natives of Mauritius. Here may be seen the cele-
brated Coco de mer, from Seychelles, with its great twin nuts.
From the delicate fibres of the leaves, the elegant baskets,
fans, hats, &c., are made. There are several squares planted
with nutmeg, clove, and other spice trees, that all bear prolifi-
cally. The mangosteen of India grows here, but it must be
either a very different or very inferior fruit, if one can judge
of it by the descriptions given by travellers.

It would be a hopeless task to try and give a more detailed
account of all the beautiful trees, shrubs, creepers, &c., of these
gardens, as there is no printed guide to them, and except the
late additions none are named, so that it is an emharras de
richesses when one attempts a description of them.

In a work on Mauritius, it would never do to omit all men-
tion of the tombs of Paul and Virginia at Pamplemousses.

Bernadin St.-Pierre's world-known and interesting romance
has spread a sort of halo round Mauritius for well nigh a cen-
tury ; and to those who never visited the island, it will still have

^ Since this was written the colony has had to deplore the loss of Dr, Meller,
who died whilst on a visit to Australia to purchase fresh canes to replace the
exhausted and diseased species in the Island. The gardens are now ably managed
by Mr. J. Home.

8o WRECK OF THE ' ST.-GERANJ [Ch. IV.

charms. But one has only to be there a few days before the
positive absurdities in it strike one forcibly.

Writers of romances, when about to draw largely on their
imaginations, should be very careful to conceal the actual
whereabouts of their stories ; for this very realistic age, when
steam and electricity annihilate time and space, when the most
distant corners of the earth are better known than Scotland or
Ireland a century ago, is sure to take the romance of mystery
out of them, and display their ridiculous side when reduced to
fact.

The following narration will show on what St.-Pierre
founded his tale.

In 1744, di'ought and locusts had occasioned a terrible
scarcity in the Isle of France, and the ' St.-Greran ' was sent from
the mother-country, to assist the Grovernor, Mahe de Labom*-
donnais, richly laden with arms and provisions. This was
doubly needed, on account of the failure of several large
vessels, just returned from India, in procuring a supply of rice.

The ' St.-Greran ' was in sight of Eound Island at four p.m.,
and the captain, M. de la Marre, wished to profit by a fine
moonlight night to enter Tombeau Bay, but it was afterwards
decided to lie to till the next day. In consequence of ignor-
ance of the dangerous coast, the ship touched on the reef,
towards three in the morning, about a league from the coast,
and the same distance from Isle d'Ambre. The sea there
generally runs high, and drove the ship with violence on the
breakers.

Every effort was made to lower the boats, but the crashing
down of the masts stove in their bulwarks, and carried them
away. The keel soon after breaking in the middle, engulphed
the centre, and fixed the extremities of the ship on the reefs.

At M. de la Marre's request, the chaplain pronounced a gene-
ral benediction and absolution, and the ' Ave Maria Stella ' was
sung.

Numbers of the crew flung themselves into the sea, on planks,
yards, oars, or anything that offered a hold ; but, carried away
by the currents, beaten and tossed by the waves, nearly all
found a watery grave.

A sailor named Caret made the greatest efforts to save M.
de la Marre. He implored him to take off his clothes, but he

Ch. IV.] PAUL AND VIRGINIA. 8i

persistently refused, saying, ' It did not become the dignity of
his position to iand without them.'

Caret at length succeeded in placing his captain on a plank,
and the intrepid fellow swam a long time through the strong
currents dragging the plank after him.

Encountering a raft laden with the crew, M. de la Marre
thought he would be safer on it, and left the brave Caret for
the raft. Plunging to avoid collision, the latter, as he slowly
rose to the surface again, found to his horror that raft and
men all had disappeared, engulphed in the boiling waters.

There were on board two lovers, a Mdlle. Mallet and M. de
Peramon, who were to be united in marriage on arriving at
the Isle of France.

The young man, as anxious and agitated as the girl was calm
and resigned, when the others left, was making a sort of raft on
which to save her who was dearer than his own life. On his
knees he implored her to descend with him on to the frail but
sole hope of safety ; and to ensure a greater certainty, he
begged her to take off the heavier part of her garments. This
she steadily refused to do. When he found his most earnest
solicitations vain, and consequently all hope of saving her lost,
though she entreated him to leave her, he quietly took from a
pocket-book a tress of her hair, kissed it, and placed it on his
heart. With his arm round her to shield her as far as he could
to the last, he calmly awaited the terrible catastrophe at her
side ; nor had they long to wait, for they were soon washed
from the deck, and their bodies were picked up at Tombeau
Bay.^

Eight of the crew and one passenger were all that were saved,
and made known the details of the shipwreck. This disaster
was the more frightful as it took place at a season of the year
which is always calm in these regions, and it can only be attri-
buted to the imprudence of the officers and their entire ignor-
ance of the coast.

The two tombs shown as those of Paul and Virginia are two
common-place brick and mortar structures, whitewashed, or
at least they were so, years ago. They are situated in what

* It is said this bay derived its name, the Bay of Tombs, from the number of
bodies washed on shore there from the St.-Geran.

82 DECLINE OF ROMANCE. [Ch. IV.

was once a fine garden, a little rivulet flowing between them,
and shaded by beautiful palms and feathery bamboos.

I had a special mission from a romantic young lady to send
her some flowers from the tombs, as precious relics ! Sad to
relate, when I visited them there had been heavy rains — the
whole place was a swamp, and I could not get within a hundred
yards of them. However, I gathered a few rose leaves from
another part of the garden, which, I do not doubt, answ^ered
equally as well.

Now, instead of the silence and seclusion once surrounding
this show-place for all visitors, a railway station is within a few
yards of it ; the iron horses go thundering by, and the progress
of steam has caused a consequent decline in romance in
Mam'itius as well as elsewhere.

CHAPTER V.

THE EACES.

The Beginning of Racing in Mauritius — Unprofitableness of Eaces — Horses very
Inferior — Rules and Regulations up to Newmarket mark — No Information to
be got — Preparations for Races — Race Monday — General Excitement — The
Race — Jockeys — The Loges — Saturday — Scenes in Bazaar — Costumes — Nautch
Girls — Toilettes — Painful Case of take in — Return Home.

The commencement of the racing era in Mauritius was in June,
1812, under the direction of Colonel Draper, a member of the
English Jockey Club, and the fine field of the Champ de Mars
was appropriated to the sport.

How matters were then carried on I know not, but I doubt
if the racing was ever much to boast of. It is true that for
years fresh blood from Europe, the Cape, and Australia has been
imported, but like the human race, the equine degenerates
rapidly here, and racing does not appear to have been a profit-
able speculation, for some of the most energetic importers
have entirely ceased and given up their studs.

I have witnessed two of these exhibitions of horse-flesh, and
considered the whole affair as got up by a few private specula-
tors. All the horses I have seen entered were a poor lot, and
so far from being fit for racing, I question if any gentleman in
Europe or America who valued his turn-out would have ridden
them either in the Central Park, New York, in Hyde Park, or
the Bois de Boulogne.

It must be, however, understood that the failure is not from
any want of forms and rules, for there is a Turf Club, which
issues printed regulations on the strictest Newmarket prin-
ciples, and they are supposed to be carried out to the letter.

I can give very little information as to what goes on in the
Mauritius racing world, either in the present or past times.

84 THE COURSE. [Ch. V.

I have applied over and over again to some of the principal
members for such knowledge, who were lavish in promises ;
but the only result I have attained, after waiting many months,
is a copy of the aforesaid regulations. So I must perforce draw
a veil over the racing history of the island, and will only de-
scribe the field of strife.

Formerly the races were held in September, then in August,
and latterly in July ; a more sensible arrangement, as there is
generally in the last named months a prospect of fine weather,
without the mid-day heat of the former. For some weeks
previous to the races great preparations go on. A long row of
stalls or lodges, and the judges' stand, are erected near the wan-
ning post. The course is put in first rate order ; confectioners
lay in ample stocks of eatables and drinkables, not forgetting
ice; milliners and dressmakers are at work night and day
to — spare your blushes, ladies, I will not dare to intrude on
such sacred ground. On that head I will confine myself to
describing only the brilliant results when you dazzle our be-
wildered eyes on the long prepared-for day. Meetings of the
Turf Club, bettings, watching the horses cantering round
the field on early mornings and showing off their paces, and
so on, till the eventful Monday, the first day of the races,
arrives.

From daylight every street is crowded with loads of chairs,
tables, benches, and stands. Private carriages are driven up
and left horseless within the cordon near the loges. Tents rise
on the surrounding eminences as by magic, flags fly, tomtoms
beat, the w^hole city is in a ferment. One loge is set apart for
the governor, another for the council, mayor, officers of the
regiment, &c.

By 1 1 o'clock knots of anxious and horsey-looking men may
be seen near the betting stand ; horses may be heard neighing
in the distance, the loges and carriages begin to fill, all is con-
fusion worse confounded, everyone rushing madly about, not a
calm face visible. Men, women, and children, horses and dogs,
swell the crowd on the course ; the wretched police, sweltering
under the brilliant sun in their closely buttoned cloth coats,
hoarse with their efforts to clear it.

Up goes the Eoyal standard, a carriage dashes along, and
his Excellency and lady are ushered into their loge.

Ch. v.] THE MAURITIAN NEWMARKET. 85

Vehicles of every description set down their gorgeous bur-
dens, and the whole place is soon a flutter of ribbons, silks, and
muslins. ' Way there,' and on come the prancing horses led
by their jockeys and owners, with difficulty soothed into an
equable frame of mind fit for their duties in the Babel of
sounds around them.

Headlong goes the crowd at last. The course is clear even
of the inevitable old woman who will go every way but the
nearest off, and the howling dog pursued by the whole police
force. The jockeys and saddles properly weighed and weighted,
' Are you ready? ' responded to, and the magic ' Off 1 ' uttered, and
away they go. A great silence falls on the assembled multitude,
till the horses begin to turn towards the winning post, when a
gradual hum steals through the silence, and it ends in a roar
of applause as the winner comes in, though I believe not more
than a third of the multitudes present know when the horses
do run. The jockeys return to be weighed, and all the forms
usual on such occasions in the mother country are gone through.
The jockeys (save the mark, for only one I have seen who
knew anything about riding) are dressed in such fantastic
colours, it is enough to make the quietest horse shy when he
is mounted, in astonishment at such a flutter of silks and
ribands.

The gentlemen who keep private carriages appear to take
more pride in their horses than the racing community in theirs ;
and till a better system of stabling and training is adopted, the
Mamitian Newmarket will be ever at a low ebb. It has one
good side, it is profitable to trade, and is a general holiday and
festival, and where there is such a lack of amusement, I do
not wonder at its being kept up. I will turn, then, to the
pleasantest part of the affair — the loges, where are the fashion
and beauty of the island. The French ladies, and the English
who follow French fashions, certainly dress with exquisite
taste. From the fluttering lace above the chignon (or water-
fall, as we call it in Yankee-land) down to the points of their
Canots' boots, or the tips of their dainty Jouvin or Boudier's
gloves, all is rich, well chosen, harmonious; only to a Northerner's
eye, a leetle, too rich for out-of-door costume.

There are generally three or four races, and by 4 or 5 o'clock
all is over until Wednesday, when much the same programme

86 THE NATIVES. [Ch. V.

is gone through, except that there is not such a large concourse
of people as on the first and last days.

With the single exception of New Year's day, Saturday, the
third day of the races, is the grand holiday for all classes and
colours. Peons, cooks, household servants, claim a release from
work, the two latter but too often regardless of Monsieur or
Madame's entreaties to be home in time to get dinner ready.
Lucky is the housekeeper who has this day taken the j^re-
caution to have that meal cooked beforehand.

From gunfire at dawn of day every inlet to the town swarms
with carts and carrioles, literally crammed with Indian women
and children ; the men walking alongside, and all dressed in
a superabundance of extra finery. They come in from the
villages and estates.

The first point of attraction is the bazaar, and thither I also
went for household purposes. I confess that bad beef and worse
mutton (the fare in the market on that day) had less charms for
me than watching the busy scene around. Outside the gates
stood rows of little carts, drawn by sleek-coated donkeys, their
headgear adorned with flowers. These were filled with very
small Indian children, put there to keep them out of the
crowd, while pater and materfamilias were having a gossip
within the gates. Each cart was a picture. Such a number
of grave, self-possessed atoms of humanity I never saw. Every
one of them in a new costume, glittering with jewellery, their
bright black eyes sparkling with anticipated delight, but un-
like European children — nearly all silent.

Inside all was bustle and gaiety. Wherever Indian delicacies
were sold, there mirth was rife — everybody laughing, joking,
bargaining, eating, and gossiping in a Babel of dialects. All
was hurry and fun, as the bazaar closes early on that day, and
woe-betide the housekeeper that neglects to send to market
early. Every bit of fruit is swept off, either by customers in
haste to go to the Champ de Mars, or by the vendors, who hope
to realise larger profits by selling it on the race ground.

Here and there a grave couple are seen smoking and telling
their adventures since their last meeting, and if you want
their wares you must wait till the speech is finished before
they will answer you. Commend me to a group of Malabar
women out for a spree, for gossiping. If it be true that out of

ch. v.] citadel hill. 87

the ten measures of speech given by the Grods, women got nine,
it is quite certain that the Indian fair sex appropriated seven
of them. Their tones are so sharp and high, that any stranger
would suppose them quarrelling.

Between seven and eight o'clock, up Bourbon, Church, and
Corderie Streets, that run direct from the bazaar to the Champ
de Mars, goes a stream of coloured people of all nations.

The grave, stout Arab, generally in a carriage drawn by a
good pair of horses, with his little boys, in beautifully gold-
embroidered robes and caps (no Arab woman is ever visible
in Mauritius) ; the Parsee in long white dress and singular tall
cap, hollow at the top — and even he has a smile on his stern
handsome face, and thousands of Indians of different races,
most of them in native costume ; but a few indulging in coats,
particularly old cast-off soldiers' red coats, with a yellow or
white waist cloth and bright head dress, the ends sticking out
horn-fashion, looking quite happy and unconscious that a coat
requires a nether garment. The stout, heavy Malagash, small
Creole Indian, pig-eyed Chinaman, French and English Creoles,
and American, English, and French, 'pur sang, all have repre-
sentatives at this Mauritian carnival.

The centre of the Champ de Mars is devoted to other
amusements than racing. Swings, merry-go-rounds, greased
poles, even Aunt Sally has found her way there. Look down
on this varied scene from one of the surrounding eminences,
a,nd you get a sight almost unique in the civilised world.

This vast plain is lined on two sides with pleasant looking
houses, every window and garden overflowing with visitors, the
hill at the upper end covered to its summit with tents and
booths. The Citadel Hill, which overlooks it, is crowded with
pedestrians, and the different streets that diverge from it
at its foot swarm with carriages and people going and coming.
Bacchus and Comus reign supreme. In every corner are
Indians vending indescribable confectionary, eagerly devoured.
Immense baskets of fruit and pistaches disappear, and oceans
of lemonade and other not so innocuous drinks.

Between the races may be seen a dense crowd, and in its
centre three Nautch girls performing their dances and singing
songs unfit for ears polite, but luckily in the Hindoo tongue, to
the great delight of the circling faces. They are accompanied

88 THE NAUTCH DANCE. [Ch. V.

by five musicians, with fiddle, cymbals, and drums fastened
to the waist by cloth girdles. The girls were fantastically
dressed in bright-coloured muslin skirts and very short bodices,
showing the plump brown skin between the two, and the long
scarf-like ' Capra ' floating round them, striped and trimmed
with gold lace. Their faces were painted, and anklets and
wristlets encircled with rows of silver bells that tinkled with
every movement. An old fakir went with the girls, dressed in
ragged coat and patched trowsers, and a cap covered with
strings of beads that hung to his waist, and his face hideously
streaked with white paint. Between the dances he sang and
told stories, which, judging from the warm reception they re-
ceived from the audience, must have been of a very questionable
character ; and it is well known the accredited story-tellers,
whose name is Legion, have a repertoire that beats Eugene Sue
or Paul de Kock out and out.

After the most indescribable postures and gestures, one of
the girls would throw herself on the neck of some bachelor
bystander, who was obliged to give her money before he could
make his escape from the jeers of the crowd. These wretched
women are set apart from childhood for the Nautch, under the
charge of the ugly old fakir, and are obliged to work very hard,
and to give all their earnings to him.

On this day the real fun is not with the horse races, which
few out of a certain set care about, but with the pony, sack,
and donkey races. In the former generally one at least dis-
charges its rider, and makes off to the hills, when the chevy
that follows is the best part of the race. The soldiers most
frequently contest the sack races ; but the greatest fun is when
the donkeys run, in which the pretty little animals, mostly
ridden by boys, are as erratic in their movements as their
brethren in other countries, and few arrive at the goal.

The stalls are filled with the elite of Mauritian society from
the Grovernor downwards, dressed in the very acme of Parisian
fashion. Behind these stalls are refreshment rooms, where every
delicacy is procurable, and a plentiful supply of iced drinks, most
acceptable with the thermometer at 90° even at the beginning
of August during the day, though it falls to 75° in the even-
ings.

Numbers of carriages draw up here beneath the stalls, and

Ch. v.] colour. 89

offer a curious sight to English eyes. Almost every one con-
tains a party of splendidly dressed women ; and in among them
you stroll, as being one of the most attractive features of the
course, and more accessible than the fair dames in the stalls.
Presently you see a delicate, mignon, white-gloved hand on the
side of an irreproachable turn out ; the tiniest souppon of a lace
bonnet and a resplendent silk dress, and with pardonable curi-
osity you approach nearer, trusting to meet a face to match
the exquisite toilette, when lo ! a pair of bright black eyes
look round at you, set in a face of some shade of brown or
black, with a thick down of violet powder on it, and you at
once collapse.

Colour certainly carries the day on the race ground. The
sports generally continue till quite dark on this day, but
not so late as formerly. The Indians now take advantage of
the trains, which are altered to a later hour on race days, so
that the great influx from the country is obliged to leave the
ground earlier than they otherwise would.

Those who do not go to the Champ de Mars, amuse themselves
by watching the carriages drive home through the city, and
doubtless commenting thereon ; the tired owners glad to get
home, the fair sex to dream of the boxes of gloves lost and won
on the races — well for them if paterfamilias has not to muse on
heavier losses.

CHAPTEE VI.

THE EPIDEMIC OF MAURITIUS.

On Fevers generally — Malarious Fever in 1866 — Distress in the Districts —
Symptoms of the Fever — Complications — Effects of Quinine — Eemedies — The
Fever, Malarious — Causes of Fever— Spores — Ague Plants — Causes of Malaria
at Port Louis — At Grand Eiver — The Lowlands — Destruction of Trees— Sad
Scenes — Funerals — The Western Cemetery — Fete des Morts — Cemetery of Bois
Marchand.

Fair isle of the sea, who that views thee could dream
That thy beauty like apples of Sodom doth lie ;

That no life-giving draughts are supplied by thy stream,
And pestilence hangs 'neath thy bright fairest sky !

Fevers, once almost unknown in Mauritius, are now fast be-
coming its bane ; particularly since the great increase of the
coloured population by immigration from India.

The Indian races have a well-known proclivity to febrile dis-
eases. The hundreds constantly arriving from the worst hot-
beds of malarious disorders, bring with them the germs of the
different fevers prevalent in India, which favourable circum-
stances develop from time to time into activity. The true
Bombay or bilious typhoid fever, so frequently fatal, especially
when followed by its deadly ally dysentery, is supposed to have
been introduced about thirty years since, and at intervals has
broken out on different estates. Eemittent fevers have been
constant in the island, and typhoid, or enteric fever, has become
almost endemic in Port Louis.

In 1863 a contagious fever amongst the Indian labourers
carried off numbers of victims ; but the best medical authorities
state that no case of intermittent fever had occurred for twenty
years till the year 1866.

With all these elements of fever ripe for development, aided
by peculiar atmospheric influences, and aggravated by a combi-
nation of malarious causes (to be explained later), it is little

Ch. VI.] MALARIOUS FEVER. 91

wonder that the intermittent fever of 1866 changed in the
early hot months of 1 867 to the virulent epidemic form it then
assumed.

Malarious fever was rife in Black River, Grande and Petite
Riviere since 1866, and then spread to Port Louis, Pample-
mousses, Placq, and other low-lying- districts, from certain
circumstances peculiarly favourable to its progress, and took
an intensity and deadliness unparalleled in Colonial history, its
prevalence increasing as the means of resistance grew less and
less, and the death rate attaining the high figure of 240 per
diem in the city of Port Louis alone.

A great difference between the epidemic of 1863 and that of
1867 was the constant relapses : in that, it was death or cure ;
in this, the disorganisation engendered repeated attacks, assisted
by the scarcity of good food and water from the long drought.

In every district dispensaries were established for supplying
food and medicines to the poor sufferers. It was a difficult
task to provide for the thousands whose religious prejudices
prevented them from partaking of other than certain meats ;
and where whole families were stricken down, it often occurred
that there was not one strong enough to go the distance to
fetch the help held out. From shortness of hands, the G-overn-
ment was unable to send visitors from hut to hut, and
hundreds died from sheer inanition.

Honour to those who were thoughtful enough at such a time
of trouble to send in a quantity of deer shot in the woods,
which gave many a dish of broth to the poor wretches who
could take no other naeat !

A total failure of quinine at a most critical moment proved
a great source of anxiety to the medical men, as to that alone
would many of the most obstinate cases yield. A marked con-
trast between the Bombay fever and this epidemic was, that
whereas this would generally cede to the effect of quinine, the
symptoms of the other would be aggravated by it.

The commencement of the fever was rarely without premoni-
tory symptoms. Generally a day or two previously the patient
suffered from languor, lassitude, and a feeling of general in-
disposition ; but the relapses were frequently very sudden,
without any apparent exciting cause.

The complications in most of the cases of the intermittent

H

^2 SYMPTOMS OF FEVER. [Ch. VL

fever were manifold, and depended on the disposition of the
patient to any slumbering disease, and by far the greater numbei
of deaths occurred from the subtle agency of some other
malady combining with the fever.

In most of the cases of bilious remittent, the remission was
well marked, and lasted several hours ; but in the intermittent,
when it had assumed the most virulent form, the remission was
scarcely perceivable, and disappeared, but very slowly, after
days of active medical treatment.

In the earlier months of the epidemic, whilst the treatment
was yet uncertain, numbers were carried off by congestion of
the brain. The cold or ague stage rarely appeared at the first
attack, but was seldom absent more or less in all relapses. It
was ushered in by languor and chill, and a sensation as of a
stream of cold water running down the back ; the skin w^as
shrivelled and the papillae prominent (vulg. goose skin) ; the
teeth chattered, the nails became blue, and the whole frame was
shaken. The countenance appeared anxious, features shrunken
and pale, eyes dull and hollow, respiration hurried and op-
pressed ; great irritability ; frequent hysteria or delirium, and
a general feeling as if death must ensue.

The duration of this stage was from half an hour to three or
four hours ; it was only to be subdued when severe by heaping
on blankets, bottles of hot water, hot drinks, and other active
treatment, when it was gradually succeeded by the hot state, or
reaction. The surface of the body became dry and intensely
hot, generally accompanied by sickness at the stomach, and in-
clination to vomit ; a bounding pulse that rose far above the
natural standard ; the mouth parcj|ed with excessive thirst ;
great restlessness ; fulness, or violent throbbing in the head,
and frequently delirium at intervals. This stage rarely lasted
less than three hours, and when at its worst, often extended to
thirty-six hours, but the ordinary time was from three to
six hours.

Then followed the sweating period. Slowly a little mois-
ture spread over the breast and neck, gradually extending over
the whole body ; pulse and breathing became natural, headache
and thirst abated, and the patient felt for the moment as if
suddenly restored to health, so great was the relief; a mis-
take but too- quickly rectified, as exhaustion utter and com-

Ch. VL] DEATHS OF NATIVES. 93

plete succeeded ; profuse sweats, necessitating frequent changes
of personal and bed linen ; and to prevent collapse, broths or
other nourishment, and even wine, were obliged to be given
constantly in small quantities.

Numbers of Indians died in the exhaustion following the
fever. Their nature and habits at all times disincline them
from over exerting themselves ; and the system was so prostrated,
and the disgust to food was so great, that even a strong-minded
white man could scarcely be roused sufficiently to force him-
self to take nourishment. It is not then surprising that the
Indian, who rarely fears death, should prefer sinking out of
life to taking the trouble to rise and eat.

I know this as a fact from my own domestics, that they could
be with the greatest difficulty induced to take food or medicine,
unless I administered it myself. They said, ' Life was not worth
the trouble of exerting themselves to eat.'

The above were the ordinary symptoms, but besides these,
on many occasions, asthenia characterised the case, either re-
sulting favourably or otherwise in patients where the heart had
lost its contracting power from extreme debility. Delirium,
insomnia, and other cephalic symptoms, were frequent at first;
gastric irritation with gastro-hepatic derangement and vomiting,
latterly. Loss of appetite, nausea, and tenderness on pressure
over the epigastrium and right hypocondrium, appeared more
or less in every case of intermittent fever.

At the commencement of the epidemic fulness of the liver
and spleen did not exist, but after repeated attacks of fever,
derangement of both were almost sure to follow. Dropsy of
the feet and legs was another painful consequence, particularly
in those who had taken immoderate and incessant doses of
quinine. The eyesight and hearing were also affected by the
same cause.

The tongue was usually coated with a thick, yellowish-brown
or creamy, and sometimes a black, fur. The creamy appearance
often remained, notwithstanding treatment, for a considerable
time after the disease abated ; the fact of the edges of the
organ being redder, and of a more healthy hue, alone indi-
cating the ending of the fever.

For some time diarrhoea and dysentery were rarely compli-
cated with the fever ; but these pests of hot climates increased

94 REMEDIES. [Ch. VI.

in like proportion with it, and during its decline, and even to
the present time, it is very prevalent.

Frequently the whole intestinal tract from the mouth down-
wards was ulcerated, and then no remedies were of any avail.
Water on the brain, inflammation of lungs or stomach, and
Bright's chronic disease, were also adjuncts of the fever, modi-
fied according to different temperaments after the height of
the epidemic had passed.

Cinchona and its preparations administered in excess will
often establish some local disease. If in a perfect state of
health, and taken in small doses, no obvious effects are produced,
save perhaps some slight stomachic derangement, a little thirst
and temporary excitement of appetite ; but if the dose be in-
creased, the alimentary canal becomes disordered, indicated by
nausea, vomiting, thirst, and constipation, and a febrile state is
set up, or manifested by the excitement of the vascular system ;
the tongue is dry, and the cerebral and spinal organs become
deranged, as is shown by throbbing headaches and giddiness.

As a prophylactic, quinine is seldom used with success.
Persons who have taken this drug in the hopes of escaping
the fever have, almost invariably, been attacked sooner or
later.

To my knowledge several instances of death occurred from
the system being overdosed with quinine before the fever had
appeared.

The best prophylactic measures are : clothing neither too
heavy nor too light ; avoiding night or damp air ; occasional
purgatives, a good regular diet, and a very moderate use of
stimulants.

The most successful treatment was by purgative medicines,
James' powder, and calomel ; mustard poultices, or mustard
foot-baths ; and quinine on the subsidence of the fever in
moderate doses. With a sluggish or dormant liver the use of
calomel and emetics was imperative, as in these cases
experience has long shown that quinine is not only wasted
but injurious unless purgative medicines have been pre-
viously used.

From four to eight grains of quinine carefully injected into
the subcutaneous areolar tissue has often produced beneficial
results.

Ch. VI.] REMEDIES AND 7 RE A TMENT. 95

. According to Dr. Murehead, one drachm of liquor arsenicatis
may be used as an equivalent to twenty grains of quinine.
Such a dose can scarcely be given without risk (albeit the
doctors gave from thirty to fifty grains sometimes in their
prescriptions), therefore he suggests that a relapse might be
prevented by quinine, and moderate doses of arsenic be given
to complete a cure.

In intermittent fevers, the febrile exacerbations are of much
longer duration than in the remittent. The object then is to
shorten the period of exacerbation and lengthen that of re-
mission. This may be done by saline and effervescent draughts,
cold drinks, iced water in small quantities, bits of ice in the
mouth, lemonade, cream of tartar water, and cold applications
to the head.

As soon as the body is cov^ered with perspiration, the bed and
body clothes should be entirely changed, taking care not to
weary the sufferer, and clear chicken broth be given at intervals,
not of long duration.

Intermittent fever is rarely thoroughly cured without a re-
currence of the disease. Hundreds, supposed to have been
cured, and in apparently good health for months, have had re-
lapses without any perceptible cause.

Experience teaches us to regard with great caution what is
called a perfect cure, as it is well known that persons who
have suffered severely from this fever in tropical climates, on
returning to Europe and elsewhere, have been attacked again
with the identical fever peculiar to the districts where it was
contracted, leaving no doubt that the germ of the disease was
carried for a long time in the system.

A stranger fact is, that people who had passed unscathed
through months of the fever in Mauritius, and then left for
England or France, congratulating themselves on their escape,
had sharp attacks of it some time after their arrival.

It is well known that the Madagascar fever remains in the
system for years, is in fact almost ineradicable after having
suffered from it severely in that island.

The cases are very rare where no relapses have taken place,
and still rarer those who have escaped altogether, though such
lucky fellows are to be found ; but they are like * angels' visits,
very few, and very far between ! '

96 CAUSES. [Ch. VI.

In the case of persons just recovering from fever arriving at
any place where it had not declared itself, the disease rarely
spread from infection.

I may give an instance of this, at Creve Coeur, where the
Rev. Mr. Hobbs and his family reside. The estate lies very
high, and he constantly received invalids into his house, most
of whom are indebted to the kind attentions they received
there for a return to health ; yet neither he nor any of his
family caught the fever.

Creve Coeur, and a neighbouring estate, the ' Lucia,' are both
elevated, and free from dense clusters of trees ; and the free
ventilation prevents the accumulation of water in stagnant
pools and their emanations. Whilst the population in the
smTounding estates was almost decimated, these places nearly
escaped, from their favourable natural position.

The opinion of all the medical faculty in the island is, that
the epidemic now waning is malarious, and of the intermittent
form, generally at first distinct, but essentially malarious.

Everywhere one heard the questions, ' What have been the
predisposing causes of the epidemic ? and what are the existing
causes of its long continuance ? '

Whatever may be the difference in opinion as to the origin
and modes of propagation, all agree that certain states of the
air favour the disposition of the body to receive intermittent
and remittent fevers, and rivet them into the constitution,
which baffle all attempts at complete cure, and induce a tendency
to relapse from apparently slight causes.

The concurrence of cold with a moist atmosphere ; heavy
rains after long dry weather ; weakness of body, whether owing
to poor and unwholesome diet, fatigue, severe evacuations,
or previous diseases; anxiety of mind ; inactivity, intemperance,
or restlessness, all increase susceptibility ; while hope, con-
fidence, cheerfulness, whatever can excite mental energy,
lessen it.

Differing as intermittent and remittent fevers do in many
points, particularly in their rate of mortality, they yet agree
in their origin as occasioned by effluvia emanating from putrid,
stagnant waters, swampy low grounds, and animal matter. It
is found in the tropics that malarious diseases are most common
in the seasons succeeding heavy rains, when the temperature is

Ch. VL] MICROSCOPIC DIAGNOSIS. 97

high, and where the surrounding country abounds with jungles,
and insect life is rife.

It is now well ascertained that gases, emanating from decom-
posed vegetable and animal matter, generate confervaceous as
well as diatomaceous plants, such as Tetraspora Nostoc and all
the genera Agaria.

These cryptogams are never found in di^y warm situations,
but where it is damp and warm, and they develope themselves
especially where organic matter is in a state of putrefaction.

Some of these plants live on the surface of stagnant waters,
but very many on the surface of low lands. Others are para-
sites on plants, which they destroy, as is shown in the diseases
of the vine and potatoe.

In Oidium Tuvkeri the spores are so small that Ehrenburg,
the great microscopist, was scarcely able to detect the form of a
thousand of them, grouped together, with the highest power of
his microscope. Our knowledg^e of the elementary structure
of organisms is exclusively based on microscopic discoveries,
and modern physiology is the result. Organic chemistry has
materially participated in the development, but the microscope
excels the chemical re-agents in practical usefulness, both as to
precision and facilit:y, and has firmly established its superiority
in hystiology and physiology.

Through the medium of these fundamental branches it has
benefited medical science at large, and of late has lent material
aid as well as diagnosis.

Sometimes it may delude and give rise to erroneous in-
ferences, but the chances are in such a case it is the performer
or an imperfect instrument that is in fault.

It more frequently reveals the true state of elementary
structure, and its derivation from the normal state, and thus
aids as well as corrects pathological knowledge.

In a long-continued series of observations, in cases of persons
who have died of fever, when particular organs and their se-
cretions were submitted to minute microscopic examination, it
was almost invariably found that the membrane lining the
stomach was covered with a multitude of very minute plants,
closely resembling the Alga, Oryptococcus Cerevisice. These
parasites often covered the whole intestinal tract ; some w^ere
perceptible on the surface of the lungs, and some could be

98 WATER. [Ch. VI.

detected in the blood. In the latter, it sometimes happened
that there were epithelial cells, apparently containing fatty and
pigment molecules.

On living patients, in the advanced stage of the fever,
they may be detected, by one well acquainted with the mi-
croscope, in the substance which is formed at the corners of the
mouth and eyes.

Some of the parasites appear quite hollow, others contain
nuclei and spores, and others show cell-articulations.

In the secretions of entirely healthy persons they cannot be
detected.

Water taken up in well-cleaned basins out of some isolated
pools at Grrand Eiver, or where its waters mingle with the sea,
and subjected to the rays of the sun till stagnant, developed a
green superficial film. Under the microscope this film showed
plants so nearly related in shape and structure to those in and
on the different organs of the human body, that there is no
doubt of their being of the same genera, and it is equally
certain that they were exciting causes of the epidemic.

Myriads, of these plants were generated all over the island ;
and when matured, the spores became free, and were taken up
by the wind and carried from place to place. These spores
were thus inhaled, and if the stomach was not in a morbid
condition, they would pass out without effecting or undergoing
any change, or be destroyed by the gastric juices ; if, on the
contrary, it contained material highly susceptible of fermenta-
tion (which the universal rice and vegetable diet here tends to),
the spores would germinate and grow, produce inflammation,
and fever readily ensued.

Unlike phsenogamous plants, which absorb carbonic acid gas,
depositing the carbon in the plant, and throwing oflf the oxygen
into the atmosphere, all the lower class of cryptogams absorb
oxygen, and consequently give out carbon, thus vitiating the
atmosphere we breathe.

It may not be out of place to mention here, that the physio-
logical effects of the cinchona bark, and its alkaloids, on vege-
tables, animals and men, should be borne in mind, as the con-
nection of these effects with the therapeutical influence of the
bark in fever were until lately inexplicable.

Decandolle states that leaves of plants immersed in an in-
fusion of pale bark were dried in twenty- four hours ; and others,

Ch. VI.] CAUSES OF AGUE. 99

plunged into a solution of quinia water, presented evidences
of contraction in from six to eight hours.

It is evident, therefore, why this remedy, when used in
malarious fevers, acts so beneficially. By its contraction, or
process of withering, it destroys the fast growth of the poisonous
fungoids in the system, and, if there is no complication, eradi-
cates the disease.

This fever is only contagious under certain circumstances.
Knowing how it is germinated, it will be readily perceived that
when a person is attacked with it, in damp unventilated places,
it follows as a matter of course, that from the moment the
spores in or on the patient become free, all the inmates of the
same place, and especially when they are crowded together
and filthy in their habits, will be subjected to the disease ; and
in so far only is it communicable.

Since writing the above, I met with an interesting article on
' The Causes of Ague,' and as it bore so forcibly on what I had
written, I transcribe some of its paragraphs at length.

'The fertile source of desolation and disease consists of in-
calculable myriads of microscopic cells, suspended in the at-
mosphere over waste, marshy, and fen districts. They are
minute oblong cells, single or aggregate, and having a distinct
nucleus, with a clear interspace, apparently empty, between it
and the cell wall. They are of the algoid type, strongly re-
sembling the Palniella, and are consequently amongst the very
lowest organisms known. Sometimes several of these cells or
spores are contained in an outer cell or wall, or delicate in-
vesting membrane, to form a plant.

' Of these " ague plants " is formed the greyish film where-
ever damp, black earth is turned up and exposed to the sun.
These spores or minute seeds (germinating cells) rise into the
air, carrying pestilence with them.^ There are several species
of the " ague plant," which have been called Gremiasma, from
the Grreek for earth, and the word miasma. The white, and a
yellowish green variety, occur usually in a non-calcareous soil,
and produce agues of but slight intensity, and are the only
ones known in England. There are also red, green, and lead-

' These spores may be found, I believe, in the expectoration of people seized
witli ague.

loo THE MARSH DEMON. [Ch. VI.

coloured " ague plants," and one singular species, the " GeTui-
asma pi^otuherosa,'' which has larger spores, " and consists of
groups of jelly-like protuberances."

' These latter kind habitually occur in rich calcareous soils,
and produce fevers of a dangerous and congestive character.

' The cells with their spores produce visible incrustations of
mould on the surface of recently exposed marsh earth. The
danger from these, growths is greatest in a hot dry season
following a wet one. The wetter and hotter, the worse for
man, and the better for malaria.

' The marsh demon is verily " The pestilence that walketh in
darkness." It seems almost certain that the spores of the " ague
plant " only rise with the evening dews. Microscopically tested,
the day air is free from those organisms.

' In different parts of the world these cryptogamic spores rise
in the night mists to definite heights.

' In the United States they seldom rise from above thirty-five
to sixty-five feet above the low levels ; in England, not more
than from fifteen to thirty feet.

' These spores are found throughout these vapours, but do not
extend beyond them, and are found in the greatest abundance
in their upper strata.

' Intermittent or ague fever has actually been produced in
men by causing them to inhale the spores of these algae.

' It has long been known that malaria is movable by the
wind. The spores of the " ague plants " having risen and be-
come entangled in the mist, spores, mist, and all are blown
along together, far perhaps from the place of germination.

' This fact admits of considerable practical application in
tropical climates, where the wind usually blows for a long-
time from the same quarter. It is easy to see how a volume of
vapour or fog, laden with its deadly burden of poison-cells, may
roll up and hang suspended on the side of a hill, towards which
a wind blows across an adjacent marsh.

' Instances have occurred where the poisonous vapour has been
blown over a hill, and deposited on the other side, to the un-
mitigated disgust of the inhabitants, who imagined themselves
secure from their pestilential neighbour.'

The above article applies peculiarly to Mauritius, as I shall
endeavour to show by a slight description of the numerous hot-

Ch. VI.] MALARIA. loi

beds of tlie ' ague plants ' with which the island abounds at the
present day.

I will begin with the very focus of malaria, Port Louis, and
mention a few of the numerous causes of infection in that city
alone.

The foul streams flowing through it in all directions are, two-
thirds of the year, almost stagnant ; the other third they are
swollen by the torrential rains, and bear along masses of vege-
table and animal matter from the hills and Indian camps, which,
as the waters subside, lie festering in the sun, poisoning the
atmosphere.

The emanations from the open drains, the imperfect drainage
of the houses, and the defective method of disinfecting the
night-soil, load the air with mephitic vapours.

The gradually filling-up of the east end of the harbour, from
the mud constantly pouring into it, and the tide not being
strong enough to wash away the impurities that lodge in the
muddy bottom, adds its quota to the malaria.

The low shores to the west of the city are only covered at
high tides, and are strewn with decayed sea-weed and filth,
washed in from the shipping.

Between Port Louis and Fort William lies a swamp, that
receives into its rank vegetation the streams that flow from
the cemeteries and another swampy land at the back of them.
These cemeteries contain in themselves a very sufficient cause of
malaria. The emanations from them are at times most deadly,
owino' to the circumstances that the dead are not interred
deeply enough, and the loose earth and coral which cover
them permit the escape of the gases evolved by their decompo-
sition.

It has been frequently remarked that the health of the city,
has invariably suffered when the miasma from its western side
has been blown over it.

Between Port Louis and Grand Eiver are low lands, prolific
in the germs of malaria. After heavy rain the Grrand Eiver
swells, and receives into its floods filth of every kind, which is
swept down, or deposited all over its course, or left in pools to
decompose in the sun.

Near its entrance to the sea, where the waste water spreads
out over the wide embouchure made by the torrents of ages.

I02 THE SPORE-LEVEL. [Ch. VI.

and the rapidity of the flood abates, it has not power to sweep
away all the debris, and part always remains filling up its
channel, and impeding its proper egress to the ocean. The
whole of this district, and the neighbouring one of Petite
Riviere, lies low.

Just before the fever broke out at Petite Riviere, there was
a large camp of Indians located there, reeking with indescrib-
able filth. The huts crowded to excess, men and beasts herded
together ; and with the ordinary dirty habits of the men, and
the scarcity of water in that district during the severe drought at
the end of 1866, the wonder is the fever left any of them alive.

Very few indeed were spared ; and it was a melancholy sight,
at the end of 1867, to pass by the camp. Here and there you
met a poor squalid wretch, or a few weakly children ; but
nearly all the huts were destroyed that had contained whole
families, now swept away, and the few that remained shut up —
it looked like a city of the dead, after teeming with busy noisy
life as it did some months previously.

The ill effects of allowing the Indians to wash their clothes
and bathe in the running streams, thus polluting the waters in
their whole course, was well shown during the epidemic, as
Death with unceasing energy stalked amongst those who lived
near such waters, and used them unfiltered.

' The marshes of Pamplemousses and West Savanne ; the
moist lowlands of Petite Savanne ; the shallow tidal lagoons
west of Black River ; and all the low coast-line receiving the
drainage from the central watershed, gave out their poisonous
exhalations.'

During 1867 some parts of the island entirely escaped ; most
probably lying above the spore level, or fever line, which I see
Dr. Reid, the chief medical officer, places at 600 feet above the
level of the sea.

In his report on the fever, he mentions a curious fact about
the spread of the fever into a section of Black River and Savanne,
always known as the healthiest part of Mauritius. Between
these districts and the infected ones lies a barrier of forests
and woody elevations. He writes, ' During the first week of
January 1868, occurred a hurricane, the main force of which
was from the SE. and E., in that extremity of the island,
sufficiently strong to spoil the forests of their leaves, and make

Ch. VI.] CHANGE IN CLIMATE. 103

gaps in this barrier of wooded highlands, and thus carried in
the fever germs from the part of Black Eiver, where fever was
rife, to the hitherto healthy inhabitants.'

I could add greatly to these details ; but those I have men-
tioned are suthcient to show that, with all these existing power-
ful agents to malaria lying dormant, and so many spore-beds
waiting for peculiar atmospheric influences to set them free,
the hea\y rains., and then subsequent excessive drought followed
by hurricanes, would act on them with fatal certainty, and thus
strike the whole island with this terrible plague, converting,
for the time being, the once ' Gem of the Ocean ' into a very
pest-house.

Dr. Reid also mentions in the same report a circumstance
which would seem to corroborate the fact alluded to in p. 120,
as to the effects of the cinchona, as stated by Decandolle.

He says, ' The waters of the few remaining woodland marshes
of Mauritius, the Mare aux Vacoas, aux Jones, and Bassin
Blanc, are deeply tinged and impregnated with tannin and
resinous matters, and the inhabitants around and near these
marshes entirely escaped the fever.'

He suggests, and very properly, ' May not this exemption be
due to the tannin, and other products of the debris of the sur-
rounding forest, being present in those localities, and prevent-
ing the fever germs from flourishing therein ? May not the
removal from the humus and marshes of the lowlands of
similar substances, which they received when the island was
well wooded, have been one of the changes which prepared them
for the reception and development of malarious germs ? '

I do not doubt it ; and it is most likely owing to the wither-
ing effects of the different barks in solution, that prevented the
germination of the fever-spores in those marshes, and caused
the consequent immunity of the neighbouring inhabitants from
the disease.

It is well known that the indigenous forests contain many
trees, the barks of which produce similar effects on fever to
those of cinchona.

While on this subject, I may as well mention a great source
of the changes in climate the Mauritius has undergone, viz. the
one alluded to by Dr. Reid — the cutting down of the forests.

The mania for cane-planting, to the exclusion of nearly
all other articles of export, has been carried to such an

I04 A FLEA FOR TREES. [Ch. VI.

extent, that where once stood magnificent forests, with streams
runninof throusfh them, are now wide treeless and waterless
plains, whenever the frequent droughts occur.

For a hot climate, I never saw one so denuded of tree life.
Formerly, in different parts of the city, were trees, affording
welcome shade to foot-passengers and carriage-horses. But a
raid was made on the greater part of them by the municipality,
on the plea that they injured the sewers and pavement, as if
the open stench-giving gutters did not do fifty times more
injmy. Why, in the Cape, I noticed the finest trees planted
at the edge of the gutters, which there pour along clean streams
instead of dirty, and in most tropical climates trees grow in all
the streets. Oh, Groths and Vandals ! to destroy, ruthlessly, one
of the Creator's best gifts for the health and comfort of his
creatures !

Here and there one certainly sees clumps of shrubs and under-
wood about the country ; but these become a harbour for all the
filth and refuse of the place, and of course when rain falls they
are muddy nuclei of infection.

There are endless talkings and suggestions as to what ought
to be done to bring about a difference in the sanitary
condition of the island, and it is to be hoped that action will
follow.

If stringent measures are not soon taken, the prosperity of
Mauritius must come to an end. Ships already avoid coming
here for fear of infection, and all the millions of dollars spent to
render it the ' half-way house to the East ' for all nations, may
as well have been flung into the ocean.

What the Creator made ' very good,' man has all but
ruined.

Wliere shall we turn, 0 Nature, if in thee
Danger is masked in beauty — Death in smiles ?
Here year by year the secret peril spreads,
Disguised in loveliness its baleful reign ;
And viewless blight on many a landscape shed,
Gay with the riches of the South in vain.

Youth, valour, beauty, oft have felt its power.
The loved, yet chosen victims ; o'er their lot
Hath fond affection wept. Each blighted flower
In turn was loved, and mourned, and is forgot.

Yet those who perished left a tale of woe
Meet for as deep a sigh as Pitv can bestow.

Ch. VI.] FEVER-STRICKEN. 105

Those who inhabited Port Louis during the terrible mortality
in 1867 and 1868 will never forget the sad spectacles the city
presented daily. Fever, fever, was the only word on every lip,
the only thought in every heart. Mourning and desolation
everywhere. Scarcely a person visible that did not wear the
garb of woe. Song and laughter had ceased.

Port Louis was once remarkable for the number of pianos
heard in every street in an evening, from the Erard's grand
and semi-grand to the humblest cottage instrument.

At this time it was literally ' The daughters of music were
brought low, and the voice of mourning was heard in the
streets.'

Funeral trains were met at every corner. Eelays of men
were kept night and day digging the graves.

The owners of undertakers' shops that sold mourning, and
apothecaries, must have made fortunes. The numerous drug-
gists' shops were so crowded day and night, and so short of
hands, it was with difficulty medicine could be procured.
Offices were opened in all directions for the distribution of
food, medicine, or advice to the destitute ; but all the efforts
made by the municipality and private charities could not
keep pace with the strident progress of the wretchedness and
distress.

There was no mistaking the appearance of one who had
suffered : the pallid, drawn features, the skeleton, bloodless
lingers, as if the bright life-stream had been dried out of them,
and the slow dragging step, marked but too plainly the
victims.

It was distressing to pass through the streets ; in every corner
was some poor creature, suddenly struck down, and crouching
on the ground to die.

In the outskirts of the city and country roads the victims
were so numerous, that the police and sanitary committees were
insufficient to succour half the poor wretches, and many died
by the roadsides before help could be brought to them.

Near Eoche Bois I have seen them lying in groups, dying
and dead. Not a house, within a radius of half a mile from the
one I then occupied, had a living person in it, except at a shop
belonging to three Chinamen, two of whom died later. In
many cases, as soon as a Malabar got the fever, he would hasten

io6 A SAD SCENE. [Ch. VI.

to his house and shut himself in to die ; for such was the fear
of it, to be attacked was the tocsin of death to him.

I visited many families, and the scenes I witnessed will
never be effaced from my memory. A poor Indian, whom I
had cured for the time being, came and entreated for help to a
comrade. It was night, and I was tired and had gone to bed ; but
the poor fellow begged so hard, that I dressed and went with him.
After a long walk we came to a hut, and as I approached I
heard groans and lamentations. When I entered, the scene
baffled all description. A small cocoa-nut oil lamp dimly
lighted the interior, adding horror to the scene.

It was inhabited by a man and his wife, with a number of
children. The mother lay dead in the middle of the hut, the
man hanging over her in an agony of grief. Her baby, still
living, was clasped to her heart, and seeking to draw its life-
sustenance from her cold breast. The other children were all
stricken with the fever, and in its last stages, past human help.
Of course all I could I did, but help had come too late to do
little more than assist in their burial.

One dreaded to ask the news, as one was quite sure to hear
of some friend ill, dying or dead, and often buried before you
knew of it. Parents had to rise from their sick beds to nurse
their children, and these again had to drag their weary limbs
to follow a beloved parent to the tomb, though frequently too
weak even to do that.

No change of weather seemed to arrest the plague. Intense
heat or cold, heavy rains or dry, mild calm days, or sharp
breezes, all were alike fatal. The brightest morn brought no
more hope than the wildest night.

For months the death-rate in the city alone averaged nearly
200 per diem. In every street could be seen the mourning
weeds outside the doors where death had struck his victim ; and
this was often the first intelligence you had of the loss of dear
friends — no time for ceremony then. May I never witness
again the sad sight of those incessant funerals, slowly wending
along from morn till night.

Here was a group of Malabars bearing along some poor
fellow, preceded by a priest muttering a prayer, and followed by
a few women bearing a copper dish of rice and fruit, and a jug
of water^ to place on his grave.

Ch. VI.] FUNERALS, 107

There comes a slow and stately train with black-plumed
hearse, and a long line of carriages behind it — one of the rich
and respected of the land ; anon, a little simple bier, bearing a
baby's coffin covered with a simple white muslin pall and wreath,
with perhaps only the father and nurse as mourners; then a white-
covered hearse, its white plumes and the horses' sweeping-
trappings showing that some fair girl had been cut off in early
womanhood.

Occasionally would pass a Chinese funeral, the bier supported
by stout Malagash bearers, in their long black gowns and flow-
ing weepers, looking as stolid as if of stone ; a few carioles
following with Chinamen in them, and a person always preceding-
it, scattering pieces of paper about three inches square, often
gilt or silvered, all along the road, to scare away evil spirits,
and prevent their following the corpse to its last resting-
place.

To the west of the city lie the European, Arab, Chinese, and
Lascar cemeteries. At the entrance of the first stands a long-
avenue of the melancholy filaos, fit trees for a burying-ground,
with the wailing, mournful notes that pass through them witli
the slightest breath of wind.

This cemetery is divided into the new and old, and is sur-
rounded by high stone walls. The latter is so crowded with graves
and vaults, all placed indiscriminately, that one can scarcely
walk without treading on them. Shrubs and creepers grow in
rank confusion over them, and many names are quite obliterated
by time. I never enter the old part of the cemetery without
the following lines occurring to me :

I pray thee lay me not to rest

Among these mouldering bones ;
Too heavily the earth is prest

By all these crowded stones.

The very air oppresses one. There is no look of quiet repose
about the place, as is seen in a northern burial-ground. The
absence of tall trees and shade, and the bright glare of a tropical
sun, destroy the feeling of rest that such a place should give.

I was surprised once, when reading over the names, to come
upon one of a countrywoman of my own, — a name well known in
America, and for those to whom she is still a household name,
1 copy the inscription on her tombstone : —

I

io8 THE CEMETERY, [Cn. VI.

SACKED TO THE MEMORY OF MRS. H. ATWOOD,

WIFE OF THE EEVD. S. NEWEIX,

MISSIONARY AT BOMBAY.

BORN AT HAVERHILL, MASS. U.S. AMERICA,

OCT. 10, 1793;

DIED AFTER A DISTRESSING VOYAGE

FROM INDIA TO THIS PLACE,

NOV. 30, 1812.

LONG DEVOTED TO CHRIST, HER HEART BURNED FOR THE HEATHEN.

FOR THEM SHE LEFT HER KINDRED AND HER NATIVE LAND,

AND WELCOMED DANGERS AND SUFFERINGS.

OF EXCELLENT UNDERSTANDING^ RICH IN ACCOMPLISHMENTS

AND VIRTUOUS, THE DELIGHT OF HER FRIENDS,

A CROWN TO HER HUSBAND, AND AN ORNAMENT TO THE MISSIONARY CAUSE,

HER SHORT LIFE WAS BRIGHT, HER DEATH FULL OF GLORY.

HJER NAME LIVES IN ALL CHRISTIAN LANDS, AND IS PLEADING

WITH IRRESISTIBLE ELOQUENCE FOR THE HEATHEN.

THIS HUMBLE MONUMENT TO HEE MEMORY

IS ERECTED BY THE

AMERICAN BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS

FOR FOREIGN MISSIONS.

The new part of the cemetery is in much better order, the
tombs being principally placed in rows ; and it is not likely to
be overcrowded now, as none are permitted to be buried there
except those who have vaults, and they are not allowed to be
opened till a year has elapsed from the time the last corpse was
interred. A great deal of care is bestowed on the graves ; hand-
some vases are fastened with iron clamps^ to the tombstones,
flowers and shrubs are planted, and on the anniversaries of
deaths splendid bouquets are placed on every tomb the inmates
of which have a relative left.

On the 2nd of November, the Fete des Morts, the whole
Catholic community goes to the cemeteries to place flowers on
the graves. I once went with a lady who was accompanied by
a servant bearing on her head a large basket of bouquets.

These were each placed with a prayer on the tombs of every
relative and intimate friend ; and when the basket was exhausted,
a few still being unremembered, she laid a small spray on the
rest, not forgetting a word of sorrow to each.

1 will confess I was not a little tired before it was over, and

' Shame to say,, but for this precaution they would be stolen.

Ch. VI.] BOIS MARCH AND. IC9

envied her patience. Formerly candles were lit at every grave ;
but a terrible accident happening, this was forbidden by the
authorities. A young girl kneeling between a row of lights,
her muslin dress caught fire, and before she could be rescued
she was so severely burnt that death ensued.

In sad contrast to the Western Cemetery, where each tomb is
loaded with tokens of affection, each vault jealously guarded by
locked iron railings — by everything love can devise to show
reverence for the departed — is the new cemetery at Eois
Marchand, a short distance from Port Louis.

In consequence of the overcrowded state of the old cemeteries,
and the danger of constantly opening the graves in a densely
populated city during the epidemic, land was purchased for a
new burial-ground ; and there thousands of the victims of this
fearful plague lie buried in long rows, each grave slightly
separated from its neighbour.

It was with difficulty the dead could find sepulture, when
the living had hardly strength enough to follow their nearest
and dearest.

By the hurricane in March the raised mounds were almost
entirely levelled, and now it would be impossible to say w^hose
were the relics of humanity covered by the bright red earth and
long grass. That widespread ' Grod's acre * will for ever remain a
record in itself of the fell disease that for so long a period
devasted the ' Grem of the Ocean.'

LINES ON THE CEIVIETERY AT BOIS MARCHAND.

They lie in thousands side by side,

On that wild desert plain ;
The loved, the cherished, nameless there,

By raging fever slain.

In tombs of their ancestral dead

Their bones may never lie ;
No marble records shield their graves

Beneath that torrid sky.

O'er that blent mass of human clay

No mourners bend in tears ;
No wreaths, no votive offerings there,

Though the loss will be felt for years.

no

TABLE.

[Ch. VI.

For there the gray-haired grandsire lies,

With the darlings he loved so well ;
And there the bride of a few short hours —

Of such griefs what tongue may tell ?

The mother with her first-born babe,

The father in manhood's pride ;
The fairest and best were swept away —

Oar friends so trusted and tried.

Long, long will the ' G-era of the Ocean ' rue

The fever-fiend's deadly rage ;
For sadder sights than its shores have seen

Rest not in History's page.
April, 1868.^

Outside, under the filaos of the Western Cemetery, are the
houses of the guardians ; and the stone-cutters sit there all day,
plying their trade of perpetuating or preserving the memory of
the dead.

Past the Indian burial-grounds is a very melancholy comer,
where are interred suicides and criminals "who have been hung.
Rank grass grows over them, and no iflower but the wild, deadly
Strammonium flourishes near them ; though I once saw a little
bouquet placed on the grave of a murderer, telling the tale of
some heart grieving even for the poor wretch whom human
mercy could not spare.

Table of Mortality during the Epidemic of 1866, 1867, 1868.

Total

Months

]866

1867

1868

January .....

1282

1470

1802

February

1100

2851

2224

March .

990

6671

2825

April

1064

10554

2036

May

1038

8109

2259

June

1035

3647

1940

July

1085

2383

1530

August .

1002

1386

1164

September

949

1145

927

October

1042

842

808

November

924

873

740

December

1037

1169

756

T

otal

•

12548

41100

19011

' The Bois Marchand is now being greatly improved, and trees planted. 1870.

Ch. VI I.J THE MA URITIUS. 1 1 1

CHAPTER VII.

THE CYCLONE OF 186

The Direction of the Winds, &c., from Feb. 27 to March 5 — Premonitory Symp-
toms— Changes from 5th to 11th— Direction of Cyclone — Its Track on the
Ocean — Damages in Port Louis — Destruction of Churches, "Warehouses, &c. —
Effects in the Harbour — Irving Lodge — Scenes in the Streets — Grand Eiver
Bridge — Midland and Southern Districts — Keduit — Pamplemousses — Eflfects on
the Sea-shore — Table of Losses, Deaths, &c.

The cyclone which visited Mauritius the 10th, 11th, and
12th of March, and which left behind so many sad traces of its
power, is considered, with the exception of that of 7th of March,
1848, to have been the most violent in its effects since the
hurricane o 1806.^

On the 27th of February there were strong breezes from ESE.
and SE. veering to SSE., SW., W., NW., N., NNE., and on
the 5th of March E. \ NE.

From the 1st to the 5th of March there were continuous indi-
cations of a cyclone to the east of Mauritius. Cyclonic matter
was abundant, and nearly constant. So excessive was the heat,
and so oppressive the weather, one could almost say some
unknown agency was at work against human existence. Fever
increased, the rays of the sun were scorching, and the atmo-
sphere was so overcharged with electricity that everyone felt
uncomfortable.

On the 6th of March a cyclone still threatened, and the wind
changed from E. \ NE. to NE. This weather, I apprehend, was
owing to the existence of a cyclone polygene to the W. of
Mauritius.

From the 6th to the 9tli the wdnd changed from NE. to N.
and NW., but after a storm wave without apparent discharge,

' Por much of this information I am indebted to M. Bosquet's able paper on
this cyclone, published in the daily papers.

112 THE CYCLONE. [Ch. VII.

it suddenly veered on the 9tli to ESE., inclining SE., and
accompanied by all the indications of a cyclone, and the
barometer lowered to 758.69.

The atmosphere acquired fresh cyclonic matter, indicating
the existence of the already- recognised polygene cyclone, which
advanced to the E. of the island.

During the whole day of the 10th the weather was at hurri-
cane point, the wind SE., inclining to SSE.. and the barometer
stood at 754.88.

On the 11th cyclone weather was very marked, after strong-
squalls all night, and the barometer lowered to 753.36. At
half-past nine light oscillations were visible, the wind keeping
to SSE., and clouds flying from the SE., one or two degrees
south.

The centre of the cyclone presented itself in the latitude of
Port Louis. From one to half-past the clouds passed rapidly
from ESE. ; and this observation confirms the idea of the
polygenic nature of the cyclone recognised from the 5th to the
9 th inst.

During the 11th, and up to noon of the 12th, the weather
grew worse gradually. The squalls and gusts acquired addi-
tional strength, and the barometer slowly descended from
746.29 (its height at 10 p.m. of the 11th) to 734.60 at 9 a.m.
of the 12th. The wind blew furiously all night, keeping about
SSE., but towards six in the morning it veered in all directions.
At the moment of the minimum (the mercurial column always
oscillating) the squalls were terrific from the ESE., but they
diminished by afternoon, though the elements still kept up
their strife, and the wind suddenly varied without any apparent
order from S. to SW., W. to SW., S., &c.

At one o'clock, during a momentary calm, the superior
currents indicating the wind from ENE., I concluded that the
second cyclone of this polygene cyclone was presented by the
meridian of Port Louis.

The first was directed to the E. of Mauritius, passing by the
latitude of Port Louis from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m.

The second closely followed the first, and presented itself
about 10 P.M., and came very near the island, and turned first
to the N. and then W. of it.

The superior current, the barometer, the continuous oscilla-

CYCLONE CHAJIT of the 10 'f." 11™ & 12™ March, 18 f.K.

By Nicolas Pike, U.S. Consul, at Port Louis. MaunUws.

56^ 57 gg_^^^..^J8=^=: ^^^_^00_ <JJ §g— 63 _ 64- 65 66 67 68_

^'ntifored for POce's SuihTropinjJ Rambles

Ch. VII.] DURATION OF CYCLONE. 113

tions of the mercury, and the weather, all confirm the opinion
of the polygene cyclone ; and from the end of February the
irregular changes of the wind, the falling of \\iq barometer, and
the presence of cyclonic matter, as well as the ordinary indica-
tions which precede these terrible convulsions of the aerial
ocean, prove the existence and development of it at a great
distance.

The cyclone chart shows the direction of the track of the two
cyclones which occurred in the Indian Ocean during the 10th,
11th, and 12th of March. The long arrows point to the centre
bearings of the cyclone from Mauritius during the same period.
The large circle denotes the diameter of the cyclone, which is
worked out approximately to the law of storms.

Thus calculating that the cyclone commenced on Tuesday,
the 10th, at 6 p.m., and exhausted its force (as far as Mauritius
was concerned) on Friday the 13th at 6 a.m., allowing sixty hours
for its duration, and considering the rate of travelling of a
cyclone, in the South Indian Ocean, to be about seven miles per
hour, it is safe to conclude that its diameter was about 420
miles.

It will be seen, by referring to this chart, that the centre of
this cyclone passed directly over Bourbon; and, after its construc-
tion, news was received from that place confirming this fact,
and stating that a great amount of damage was done there,
though not equal to that in Mauritius.

The ships which are on the chart are those which were in the
cyclone, and suffered severely before entering Port Louis
Harbour.

An account of extracts taken from their logs will be found at
the end of the chapter.

In the city of Port Louis the damage to property was very
serious. Most of the ornamental trees in both private and
public gardens were either blown down, uprooted, or so utterly
denuded of leaves and their lesser branches that they seemed
to have passed from the dense foliage of Midsummer to the
depth of an European winter — a strange appearance for
Mauritius, where there are so few deciduous trees.

Scarcely a dependency or Malabar hut in the various camps
was left standing.

St. Mary's Church at Plaine Verte, built of iron, was severed

114 EFFECTS OF STORM. [Ch. VII.

from its foundation, and left an utter ruin ; not any portion of
its structure could be used again. The main part of the building
was carried to some distance, while the chancel and vestries
fell in on the floor of the church. The harmonium, reading-
desk, pulpit, gas-fittings, &c., were all smashed to pieces. The
parsonage and its dependencies stood roofless.

St. Paul's Church, near by, recently erected, and strongly
built of stone, sustained nearly as much damage. The wall,
exposed to the wind, fell in with a terrible crash, and, sad to
relate, buried three men under its ruins. The roof fell, crushing
in the gallery, and breaking up the organ till scarcely a pipe
of it was visible.

The large iron warehouses in the docks were nearly all
unroofed, and a large amount of merchandise (principally sugar)
destroyed. On the morning of the 11th, the steady fall of the
barometer caused the Port Officer to hoist his hurricane signals,
and fire the gun, warning all masters of ships to be on board,
and prepare their vessels for the coming storm. By this time,
however, in consequence of the preceding day's threatening
weather, all the ships had lowered their topmasts, yards, every-
thing that the wind could lay hold of — with double anchors
well down into the ground.

Towards noon the squalls varied very much, and struck the
water with terrific descending force, but with little effect on
the ships. Later, the wind hauled, and there seemed every
probability that all the vessels (some eighty or ninety) would be
driven to sea and lost, which nothing but a shift of wind, or the
transit of the centre of the cyclone, could avert. By .eleven
o'clock, P.M., every ship in the harbour was adrift. The large
' Bethel,' formerly an English man-of-war, lying high out of the
water, was the first to break from her moorings. The most in-
conceivable confusion and destruction ensued. The crashing of
timbers and masts, and the roaring of the tempest, were terrific.
The ships rolled on their beam-ends, and every blast seemed
stronger than its predecessor, sometimes resembling explosions
more than a progressive fluid, and tearing the surface of the
water high up into curious spiral columns, revolving with in-
credible velocity.

When day dawned on the 12th the devastation was appal-
ling; the ships had been driven across the harbour by the veer-

Ch. VIL] S/GA^S OF A CYCLONE. 115

ing of the wind and were pounding into and ripping each other,
causing masts and bulwarks to fall on all sides. The chain
cables of some of the iron ships tore down the massive plates
like paper, as the sea broke fearfully across the harbour, and
along the reefs as far as the eye could reach, which was pro-
bably the storm-wave of the passing cyclone.

Many of the vessels, with their cargoes, were afterwards con-
demned, and the losses sustained amounted to many millions of
dollars.

During the cyclone I was at Irving Lodge, a recently erected
building, framed in America, and put together in the strongest
manner, with a view to resist the terrible hurricanes so frequent
here, and on which no expense had been spared by the Ameri-
can merchants, Messrs. Houdlette and Perkins.

On Wednesday evening, the gradual fall of the barometer,
and heavy gusts of wind, with dark clouds passing swiftly from
the SE., denoting certain signs that a cyclone was approaching
the island, the servants were warned, and the hurricane shutters
and doors were securely fastened, and every precaution taken
for our personal safety ; in spite of which, the roaring of the
wind and heavy fall of rain made us all feel anxious.

Early on Thursday morning a violent gust of wind dashed in
the shutters of a window, carrying away the inner blinds and
sash, and tearing the window out of its frame.

Travelling across the room, it struck the door which opened
into the dining-room, and broke it down, frame and all, de-
stroying at the same time a fine chandelier which hung over
the table, and smashing the table itself.

Up to this 1 had been peering through the hurricane shutters,
watching the wind and clouds, and taking notes of them. The
scene outside was frightful, houses being overthrown before
my eyes ; one was literally rolled over, containing three per-
sons. Flying in all directions were parts of roofs, timbers, and
branches of trees. The bath-house was actually blown away ;
large blocks of stone weighing two or three cwt., composing its
foundation, were moved to the distance of fifteen or twenty
feet by the force of the wind. Parts of the building struck the
kitchen and started its roof; but it was so substantial that it
fortunately resisted the violence of the storm.

About seven o'clock we deemed it proper to abandon tlie house,

ii6 DESTRUCTION. [Ch. VII.

as the timbers creaked and shook so much that we were fearful it
would fall on us. Taking advantage of the short lulls between
the gusts, we retreated by the back door to the stable, about
fifty yards distant, and we reached it with difficulty. This
building was about seventy-five feet long, and fifteen high, used
for a stable and servants' rooms. We barricaded ourselves in,
fully expecting that, as the storm increased, the house and de-
pendencies would all go. During the morning twenty families,
whose dwellings had been all destroyed, sought refuge with us :
and here we remained shut up, almost without food or drink,
till Friday morning.

It was a never-to-be-forgotten night ! The roaring and
howling of the wind, and ever-increasing torrents of rain, were
terrible. Our stable, though strongly built of stone, shook with
every blast ; and the poor women and children, cold and hungry,
and their clothes all drenched and torn, were piteous to see.

On Friday morning, the violence of the storm having passed,
though the wind still blew sharply, we ventured out to the
house. The wind and rain having had free access to the in-
terior, had drenched everything, destroying the new and costly
furniture.

Had the storm lasted a short time longer the house must
have gone ; as it was, the whole of the south side had started.

Fifty buildings within a radius of half a mile were destroyed.
As I passed along on Friday morning to return home, my heart
sickened at the scenes that met my gaze on every side. Every
street was obstructed with roofs, broken timbers, and trunks of
trees ; and every conceivable thing scattered about, made ' con-
fusion worse confounded.' Grroups of poor people, wet and
weary, were huddled together in corners, in the greatest dis-
tress, homeless and miserable, with extended hands imploringly
asking alms, they having lost everything but the few rags
that scarcely covered their persons. My heart ached for the
poor creatures, many of them showing in their pallid faces
traces of recent fever, and but too many have been since
relieved by death.

On arriving at my lodgings, I found them thoroughly
drenched from the rivers of water that had leaked under the
doors, and run plenteously down the walls, damaging books,
clothes, and papers.

Ch, VII.] RESULTS. 117

On the 1 6tli I took a carriage and drove through the district
of Pamplemousses, and the following day went southward ;
but wherever I passed, I saw but a repetition of scenes of
destruction, and evidences of the violence of the cyclone.

The new and beautiful bridge over Grrand Eiver, built of iron,
was partially destroyed. Two of the immense iron girders,
about 200 feet in length, were blown off the columns into the
river, and were in such a state as to be useless. There must have
been a pressure of 100 lbs. to the square foot upon these girders
to have raised them from their bed, as they weighed over 300
tons. The stone abutment on the west bank was also severely
injured, probably by the weight of the girders striking it as
they fell.

The station-house was unroofed and otherwise damaged.
The depot for the rolling stock of the Midland line was a large
building of dressed stone, so substantial, one would have thought
nothing but an earthquake would have started its walls ; yet
the wind blew in the SE. side, moving large stones from their
foundation, carrying them some distance with incredible force,
breaking and destroying a considerable quantity of rolling stock
and machinery.

At Failles scarcely a house was left entire. St. Peter's Church
was partially unroofed ; the large east window blown in ; seats
driven to the farther end of the church ; all the glass
smashed ; the pulpit upset ; and ruin and confusion on all
sides.

The Black River, Grrand Port, and other districts on the south,
all suffered severely. To describe one, needs only a change of
names to describe all the rest.

Fields of canes levelled to the ground, or torn up in masses ;
fine old trees broken or uprooted ; roads impassable from the
rain having washed deep gullies in them ; sugar-houses,
dwellings, dependencies, unroofed or otherwise injured ; horses,
mules and cattle, killed or wounded ; the direst destruction
everywhere.

On the Yemen estate, the vast sugar-houses were destroyed ;
walls and roofs crushing in on the machinery, and ruining about
60,000 lbs. of sugar.

The Indians fled from the camp, and about 300 of them
sought refuge under the arch which formed the entrance to the

ii8 CROPS AND GARDENS. [Ch. VII.

furnaces, but were soon driven from their shelter, and had
barely time to escape with their lives, as it gave way ; one man,
as it was, had both arms and legs broken. The much-admired
avenue of fine tamarind trees leading to the establishment at
Black Eiver was half rooted up, and the rush of water from the
mountains cut canals six feet deep in the road, which will take
a long time to repair.

The inhabitants of the tamarind village were obliged to seek
refuge in the artillery barracks, where they were miserably
housed for want of room ; but even thus they were better off
than those who had no shelter to fly to, and were exposed for
hours to the storm.

The state of all the villages was most deplorable, as numbers
of horses, mules, and cattle were killed by the* falling buildings,
and from want of help were left long under the ruins. This, and
other noxious matter round the temporary huts erected by the
Indians, doubtless encouraged the terrible epidemic still raging
at that time.

Grovernment House, at Eeduit, built in 1768, which had
escaped hitherto, suffered so severely in the hm-ricane that at
one time the lives of the inmates were in danger.

The elegant gardens attached to the house were a scene of
devastation ; and a large number of the beautiful trees that
shaded the walks, and the variety of graceful shrubs and rare
exotics, were twisted and broken, and in many places uprooted.
These beautiful grounds, which were in such fine order, suddenly
presented the appearance of winter, as scarcely a green leaf
remained.

The crops in the districts of Pamplemousses, Eiviere du Rem-
part and others in the N. of the island, received little damage,
not many of the canes being uprooted ; and a few bright days
recovered those that were only bent by the wind.

The losses in all kinds of buildings was very great, as will be
seen by the table at the end of this chapter.

Many of the small wooden houses, built on two or three courses
of stone, were lifted up and carried bodily from their foundations,
to the distance of some yards. One tolerably large house on the
Pamplemousses road, with a good shingle roof, was literally
turned bottom up, and stood on the ridge of the roof. The
walls of many thatched dwellings fell flat inwards, and the roof,

Ch. VII.] LOSS OF PROPERTY. 119

with not a bundle of thatch dislodged, covered the whole, as if
placed there, looking, not inaptly, like the grave of the former
residence ; and in reality in several instances this was the tomb
of some of the former inmates, unable to escape from the ruins.

It was sad enough to witness such a loss of property, but
worse to note in every hut — every corner where only the re-
mains of a roof slanted, and afforded a little shelter — some poor
wi-etch shivering with ague or burning with fever ; or sitting
up, rolled in a ragged sheet barely enough to cover him.

The faces of all who were engaged, in a slovenly way, trying
to patch up these miserable places, bore the unmistakable
traces that they had also passed through the fiery ordeal of
this terrible epidemic.

The effects of the hurricane were very visible on the sea-
shore. The large kilns, erected for bmrning coral for lime, were
much injured, and the piles of coral collected to supply them
were washed back into the ocean from which they had been
taken with so much labour.

A pretty little creek I had often examined for several curi-
osities, always full of algseas, and glowing with all the delicate
tints only a sea-garden can show, was entirely filled up. A
land- slip had taken place, from the torrents of water pom'ing
down, and disintegrating masses of red earth on the shelving-
banks above ; and as they fell they had covered even the
boulders and rocks in the vicinity, and coloured the sea to
some distance.

The destruction amongst cocoa-trees was very great. On
one estate a fine tope of seventy-five young trees, just in full
blossom, was utterly rooted out.

I cannot close this brief summary of the disasters caused
by the cyclone without mentioning that everyone, from His
Excellency the Governor to the lowest inember of the com-
munity who had the means, did all in his power to alleviate
the distress and misery caused by tliis terrible visitation.

I20

RETURN TABLE.

[Ch.VII

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Ch. VII.] REPORTS. 121

Notes of Cyclone at Bourbon.

'The sea was very rough on Monday, March 9, 1870, and
this was the precursor of the tempest which burst over Eeunion
on the 12th and 13th. The centre of the cyclone passed over St.
Pierre, describing its trajectory from NE. to SW. On Tuesday
the wind blew with violence from the SE. till about 3 p.m. ;
then a calm intervened, which lasted till six in the evening, ac-
companied to the last moment by a suffocating heat. This was
the passage of the centre, indicated perfectly by the excessive
lowering of the barometer to 719 millemetres, the first time it
had been known to descend so low since 1806. On the 12th
the storm returned with fury from the NW., and it was only
towards noon the next day that it began to calm.

' Great damage was done to buildings in the towns and
villages, sugar-houses, gardens, &c. ; a detail of which would
only be a repetition of such scenes in Mauritius.'

Report of the Skip ' La Marie^^ Capt. Horveno.

This vessel received the cyclone on Friday 13th, in 23° 16'
S. lat. and 57° 54' E. long, to the S. of Eeunion. Towards
one o'clock in the morning the centre of the cyclone must have
passed over this ship, the barometer marking 736 millemetres,
and then rising. Thus it appears, from the time the hurricane
passed us, and that at which it struck the ' Marie,' it must have
travelled very slowly.

Capt. Horveno gives an account of a vessel in distress he fell
in with and assisted. He says : —

' At . 11.30 Saturday morning I perceived ahead of me a ship
with only a mizen-mast left standing. It was the " Eesolu,"
Capt. Diuand, from Callao to Mauritius, loaded with guano,
103 days at sea.

' This vessel had passed through the centre of the cyclone on
Thursday tt^e 12th, at 1 p.m., that is 24 hours after I did. She
had lost all her masts but the mizen, and in falling they had
carried away all the boats.'

122 REPORTS. [Ch. VII.

Report of the ' Nereida,

'The centre passed over this ship at 4 a.m. of the 17th, in
lat. 31° 36' S., and 53° E. long., nearly 200 leagues S. of
Bourbon. At this time the storm had nearly expended all its
force. The barometer fell only to 754 millemetres, and the
wind blew from ESE., and then from WNW., but not strong
enough to oblige the " Nereida " to change her course.'

C H. VI II.] MA URITIUS, 1 23

CHAPTER VIII.

A TEIP TO THE ARSENAL.

Our Road — Arrival at Balaclava — Description of House and Grounds — FlonrMill
— Distillery — Patent Fuel — School for Indian Children — Lime Kilns — Geology
of the Coast.

We left town by the G-rand Bale and Cannonier Point road,
which is rather picturesque, being lined on either side by wild
camphor-trees. After passing Terre Rouge, much of the land
is uncultivated, from the scarcity of water in the district, and
most of the houses are in a more or less dilapidated condition ;
which, with the neglected gardens, give one the impression
that the life and energy of the place have died out. Everything
here is either quite new or rapidly decaying, and climate and
animal life are so destructive to all the works of man, that
were Port Louis itself left for a few years, it would be an unin-
habitable heap of ruins, a jungle of grass and wild lianes.

Turning off the road at the Point aux Piments, we saw a
catholic church terribly injured by the hurricane, but in which
little groups of pious worshippers were constantly to be seen
offering up prayers to the Virgin or Saints.

We soon arrived at Balaclava, the country residence of one of
the merchants of Mauritius.

On entering the property you drive along a lane bordered
with high hedges of the cassia, and pass in through a handsome
iron gateway, made on the estate, and before the late storm
covered with English honeysuckle. There is a carriage-road
through the beautiful gardens up to the house, and you drive
along avenues of rare exotic trees and shrubs, and on every side
a wealth of roses and delicate flowers charms the senses.

There are the greater part of the indigenous trees of the
island to be found here. The ponds are filled with Gourami and

K

124 A COUNTRY RESIDENCE. [Ch. VIII.

gold-fish ; and at one end of the garden is a magnificent
banian tree, which spreads its gigantic arms over the ovens of
the old Arsenal battery, now scarcely visible through the mass
of creepers over them.

The house, which stands on an eminence at the head of
Turtle Bay, was built by the French. It originally formed
part of an arsenal, constructed by Mahe de la Bourdonnais.
There was also an iron-foundry and powder-mills, whence
issued all the arms and defences of the colony, as well as a
supply of ammunition for the ships the Frenchman fitted out
for his Indian expedition.

A terrible accident, from the carelessness of a workman, caused
an explosion of the powder-mills, almost entirely destroying the
whole arsenal, as well as killing and wounding nearly 300
people. The present proprietor has added wings to the old
building, converted a part of the ruins into a billiard-room, and
surrounded the whole with a spacious verandah, till it has
become, as by enchantment, a charming summer villa.

The whole property is now well supplied with water by means
of a hydraulic ram from the Citron river ; and where the pipes
are brought into the garden in a sort of tower, its very unsight-
liness has been made to add another ornament to it, by being
covered with climbing roses and sweet creepers, that flaunt out
their wild masses of blossoms in the season, and perfume the air.

The French constructed a large dam of dressed stone, in
1743, which has been raised 2 J- feet higher, and gives a lavish
supply of water for mills and distillery. The surplus rushes over
the dam in a wide sheet of twenty-five or thirty feet high, then
goes dancing down the rocks, forming the loveliest, most
capricious little cascades, till it joins the sea. A walk has been
made round the dam, and a stone seat erected just where the
water dashes down ; willows are planted near it.

It was once graced by a little fairy form, the pride and
darling of the place, fair as the flowers around her, but who
faded away as quickly, touched by the poison breath of the dire
epidemic then raging. It made me very sad, while I listened
to the mournful tale, as I thought of my own little one, nearly
the same age, so far away from me.

The view from the house seaward is of great beauty, the little
land-locked bay always studded with fishing-boats ; on one side

Ch. VIII.] SUGAR-HOUSE. 125

a long sweep of turf to the water's edge, shaded with filaos, on
the other a gentle rise covered to its summit with shrubs, its
foot fringed with cocoa-trees, overhanging the bay ; the wide
ocean in the distance, and in the foreground the busy life of the
mill and distillery ; the superintendents' houses, and the fine
trees everywhere, make a tout ensemble, most picturesque. To
be seen in its most charming phase, you should recline in one
of the luxuriant oriental chairs in the verandah, on a bright
moonlight night, when the bay lies before you, like an
enchanted lake of rippling silver ; and with the sound of the
falling waters in your ears, you may dream away a summer's
evening delightfully.

Descending a long flight of steps from the garden to the
shore, which is masoned round for the three chasse-marees
belonging to the place to lie alongside to take in their cargoes,
on the right is a large mill for grinding the wheat brought
principally from Australia, which is spread out for cleaning
on the flat roof of the mill, laid level with bitumen, called here
orgamasee.

There is a large water-wheel of thirty-eight feet, and one of
twenty feet in diameter, that drive six stones, capable of
grinding 300 bags of 150 lbs. each per day. The whole
machinery, from the self-feeding buckets on a large wheel that
carry in the wheat to the mill, to the separation of the different
sorts of flour, is most complete. There was one very curious
feature I noticed, where the shaft of a large cog-wheel had been
broken. Its place was supplied by an old cannon, now sending
forth streams of life sustenance, instead of belching forth flames
and missiles for Man's destruction.

There is a traniway to the sea for bringing up the corn from
the boats ; one of the first, I believe, constructed in the island.
The store-house can contain 10,000 bags of wheat, and is often
full. Outside the mill is a fine grove of bananas, and the turf
is dotted over with cocoas, palms, banians, &c., between it and
the distillery on the left. Here we see the whole secret of rum
making, for which no pains and expense have been spared to
replace manual labour by machinery, as far as every modern
appliance can do it.

The first thing we saw was the molasses as it was brought in
from the sugar-houses, being poured from the casks into large

126 RUM. [Ch. VIII.

troughs ; black dirty-looking stuff, to be tested by the saccharo-
meter ; and if under 40° strong, it is rejected and thrown out.
If up to proof, it is strained three times and run into large
vats, of which there are eighteen, of sixty casks each, lined with
lead, and where the molasses is mixed with water and yeast to
cause it to ferment. After fermentation, it runs into the still,
at the bottom of which is placed a hydrometer, which is covered
with a glass case, under lock and key, in the hands of a govern-
ment official, who is on the premises from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.

A capital arrangement is made for filling the tonnels, which
are twenty in number, of 1,100 galls, each. A copper vacuum-
pan is connected with the pipes going down into the reservoir,
and also similar pipes leading to the tonnels. Steam is let on,
and then exhausted in the receiver, which causes the rum to
pass up the pipes like a syphon. There is an indicator in the
receiver, which denotes when the tonnel is full.

As soon as the rum is ready for market, it is drawn off into
casks, measured by a government measure, and marked by the
officer, when it is sent off by boats to Port Louis. As the rum
leaves the still, it is about 30 per cent, over proof. When the vats
are emptied, it is necessary to clean them ; but thirty-six hours
must elapse before the men dare enter them, on account of the
great quantities of carbonic acid gas they contain ; they are
generally whitewashed before being filled again. Three boilers
are employed, two of twenty-five and one of fifty horse-power,
the steam for which is condensed and returned to them.

They burn three tons of coal per day, principally Australian.
The dust from this coal is mixed with cowdung, one part of the
former to two of the latter, and pressed by machinery into
blocks of eight pounds each, then dried in the sun, when it be
comes very hard, and forms excellent fuel ; and a man can make
a ton of blocks a day.

There is a cooperage on the place, where all the casks are
manufactured, and the iron hoops wrought. The estate com-
prises about 1,800 acres, and ninety- five men are constantly
employed in the mill and distillery.

The proprietor took the initiative in opening a school for the
children of his Indian labourers. They are in school from
6 or 7 to 10 A.M. ; and though now many are very regular, at
first it was a chevy every morning to catch the little rascals,

Ch. VIII.]

INDIAN CHILDREN.

127

who objected to the discipline after their curiosity was satisfied,
and the parents gave little help towards compelling them to
attend. Most have made good progress, and in writing, sums,
and reading, they would put to shame many a school of higher
pretensions. The room is large and airy, with a thatched roof,
and the walls are hung with maps, slates, &c. The pencils used
are the large spines of the Echinvus manullatus^ plentiful in
the Bay.

The old French fort of seven guns is turned into store-houses
for lime, and close by are three large and three small kilns,

POND SCENE.

capable of burning 1,000 barrels of lime, in ten days, white as
the driven snow. The coral for making the lime is brought in
flat-bottomed boats from the reefs in the vicinity each making
two or three trips a day.

There are fine quarries on the estate of grey stone, out of
which the entire material used for building one of the churches
of Port Louis was quarried gratis, by the liberality of the owner.

The shores of this bay are very interesting in a geological
point of view. Traces are visible of vast streams of lava over-
lying each other, as well as numerous boulders, water-worn and
incrusted with what was once molten matter ; and in the inter-

128

RETURN HOME. [Ch. VIII.

stices are many fragments of madrepores, which show that, at
not a very remote period, they were submerged. But their
present position, which is so many feet above the level of the
sea, is wholly attributable to upheaval.

We returned home late in the evening, highly gratified
with our day's entertainment, and each with a large bouquet
courteously presented by our host.

CHAPTEK IX.

THE GEOLOGY OF MAURITIUS.

Kxtinct Craters — Cessation of Volcanic Action — Upheaval — Deposits at Timor
and other Islands — Force of Volcanic Agency— Mountain Peaks — Flacq — Craters
—Dr. Ayres on Flat Island — Original Formation of Mauritius— Submersion —
— Fossil Casts.

Like most other islands in the Indian Ocean, the Isle of France
is of volcanic production. Endless are the peculiar character-
istics of its mountain peaks, and the abrupt gigantic fissures
which separate them, and of the beds of lava of different thick-
ness and nature which are found everywhere.

Extinct craters of the different eras filled with earth are
more or less abundant, and are seen in numberless situations in
the island. The hills and mountain peaks, which impress their
peculiar character on the physical aspect of the land, have
been formed, at different times, by volcanic eruptions, on which
the now extinguished fires have left ineffaceable traces of their
existence.

The great fissures in the sides of the hills, which have given
rise to the waters of the interior, and formed the beds of the
rivers and ravines now seen, have undoubtedly resulted from
disruption.

Although volcanic action has entirely ceased, there is no
doubt that the volcano which formed the island was submarine,
and that its formation was not sudden, but the work of succes-
sive ages ; and the general appearance of its surface indicates
these facts.

In many parts of the interior, particularly in the vicinity of
the Chamarel Mountains, I have found corals in a perfect state,
buried in a debris of cretaceous formation, but none of the
species of which now exist in the warm tropical seas where they
once lived.

130 GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER. [Ch IX.

Between Grand Eiver and Port Louis beds exist more than
fifteen feet in thickness ; the Custom House is built on a for-
mation of this kind ; and, in fact, these corals are found in nearly
every part of the island. I observed, near the Eiver de Poste,
in the interior, at an elevation of more than 1,000 feet, a
stratum of plastic clay, twelve feet in depth, underlying a thick
bed of gravel.

It is difficult at first sight to account for these facts, but it
is evident that such deposits could have been formed only under
water, and as they are now found hundreds of feet from the
present level of the ocean, we must admit one of two things ;
either that the water was elevated above those points a suffi-
ciently long time to form thick beds there, or that these beds
were raised up from the bottom of the sea to the height where
we now find them.

Nothing in the present time warrants a belief that the sea,
which has not changed its level within the time of Histor}",
could have been so elevated long enough as to form consider-
able deposits ; it must therefore be admitted that the only rea-
sonable supposition is upheaval, an idea supported by positive
events that have taken place in our own times.

In Flat Island blocks of volcanic rocks and masses of coral
rise everywhere above the vegetation.

These coral blocks are found on the north side of the island,
forty or fifty feet above the level of the sea.^

At Timor are deposits of madrepores thirty feet thick, also
in New Holland, Van Diemen's Land, at the Marian and Sand-
wich Isles, &c., where they rest on argillaceous schist, sand-
stone, limestone, and volcanic products. In the Isle of France
a similar bank, twelve feet thick, is placed between two cur-
rents of lava.

Similar deposits are found in many other places of the same
species of madrepores, in the interior of land, at an elevation
of from 900 to 1,000 feet. The existence of deposits in such
situations evidently indicates that all these islands have been
upheaved from the bosom of the waters at different periods, for
Vanks of coral at various levels are often found.'^

' See Dr. Ayres' ' G-eology of Flat and Gabriel Islands,' in a letter to the Eoya]
Society of Arts and Sciences, 1 860.
^ See Ruschenberger's ' Geology.'

Ch. IX.J UPHEAVAL, 131

The enormous incandescent mass forming the interior of the
Globe, oscillating from side to side, beneath its thin crust,
could emboss it in every direction, and nothing more than this
would be required to raise continents out of the sea, and vary
their surface into every conceivable form.

Amongst numbers of other modern instances, I may mention
the upheaval, in the course of sixteen days, of White Island,
Neo Kammeni, King Greorge's Isle, and Aphroessa in the Gulf
of Santorin.

We have in the present day astonishing proofs of the force of
volcanic agency in Hawaii, one of the Sandwich Islands, itself
an upheaval originally, and which has gained its vast mountain
peaks by accretion. The well-known Mauna Loa rises to the
majestic height of 13,750 feet above sea level. This most
terrible of modern volcanoes has many craters, but the largest
one is that of Kilauca, three and a half miles long, two and a
half wide, and 1,044 feet deep. It is completely surrounded by
a wall of hardened lava, and at the bottom is a lake of liquid
fire, constantly surging up.

The whole interior of Mauritius was one vast crater, and the
remains of the walls which encircled it, as it emerged from the
ocean, now water-worn and degraded, forming gentle slopes,
and filling the valleys with debris, are still evident to the eye
of a geologist.

The mountain peaks were the first to rise out of the deep,
and the enormous fissures made by rivers of liquid fire, forcing
their way to the ocean, leaving behind large plains of lava, are
visible in all parts of the island.

At Flacq the flow of the lava currents is distinctly seen, and
these streams I have easily traced to the grand crater in the
central districts.

Near Turtle Bay, there are many large boulders, twenty feet
above the level of the sea, of ancient formation, and much
water-worn, which present the appearance of having been for a
length of time submerged. Numerous corals fill their cavities,
built there by the animals that inhabit the cells. These
boulders are covered with a thick encrustation of lava, and in
some instances are embedded in it.

Between Mount Ory and the Corps de Garde Mountains a
stream of lava, many miles in width, flowed to the sea. Then.

132 ADVENTITIOUS CRATERS. [Ch. IX.

again, between the Corps de Grarde and Eempart Mountains,
there is another break in the great wall, through which a cur-
rent of molten matter discharged itself. Similar phenomena
occur in various parts of the island.

After the great volcano became extinct, leaving high inward-
curved walls, a number of lesser but very active volcanoes ap-
peared on the sea-board side of the walls, in the opening oc-
casioned by the subsidence of the great crater.^ These lesser
ones are termed adventitious craters : a remarkable instance of
which may be seen in the large crater of Vesuvius, where an
adventitious one opened in its centre in 1829. Port Louis lies
in one such crater, and the Vallee des Pretres in another ; and
I have counted at least ten distinct craters between that city
and the Morne. Eempart Mountain forms the NE. and
Tamarind Mountain the SW. limit of a crater some miles in

* The late eruptions at Mauna Loa were on such a magnificent scale, and prove
how much may be effected in a few months by volcanic action, that I quote some
passages from an interesting paper on these convulsions in a "New York Herald.

In January 1859, three new craters were formed. Streams of lava were hurled
upwards from 200 to 800 feet, and when they fell, they traversed a distance of five
miles, and went sheer down a precipice in a torrent of fire, a mile wide ; drove
back the sea and usurped its place.

On January 27, 1868, Mauna Loa was observed to be very active. In twelve
days there were 2,000 shocks of earthquakes, followed by immense tidal waves,
that rose over the tops of the cocoa trees on the Rona coast, and swept away whole
villages, with much destruction of life. The slope and part of a mountain were
lifted bodily and thrown over a forest for a distance of 1,000 feet. Down the
sides of the dread Mauna Loa swept a stream of lava, seven feet in width, and
an eruption of moist clay the width of a mile that spread over 2| miles of ground
in three minutes.

On April 2, immense bodies of earth were tossed about to great distances, as if
they were feathers. Precipices of fearful height were levelled to the ground, and
gigantic chasms and fissures have been formed from the rending and upheaving of
the earth. The masses of lava that flowed from the crater, covering the roads with
the fiery streams, rushed down to the sea and drove back the water violently. The
ground thus gained formed a point a mile in length, and the lava continuing to
pour over it, converted it into a part of the island. Huge rocks were hurled from
the crater, with torrents of lava, to the height of 1,000 feet, and then rushed down
to the sea with frightful velocity.

On March 27, a new crater two miles in circumference was formed, which also
vomited rocks and streams of liquid fire. A current of lava flowed underground
six miles from the sea, and the gases from the rents in the earth destroyed all
vegetation.

The smoke that rose from the craters was a dense cloud, and floated off in a line
of 1,000 miles across the sea. It was so thick at 500 miles from Hawaii, that
Captain Stone of the brig ' Kamekameha V.' was unable to take an observation.

Ch. IX.] CRATERS. 133

diameter, with a good-sized adventitious one in the centre, just
at the back of Tamarind Bay.

The bold promontory of Brabant and the Island of Four-
neaux are the only remaining portions of the wall seaward of a
crater more than two miles in diameter. The mountain sides
of the crater looking south are almost perpendicular. Four
aux Cerfs, Grand Bassin, and others are all small adventitious
craters.

At Baie de Cap there is a well-defined one, the walls rising
to some hundreds of feet in height. There is a bluff at the
head of this bay, about 300 feet perpendicular, formed of
beautiful tabular basalt, which can only be viewed to advantage
from a boat. Large columns are constantly being detached and
falling into the bay from the degrading action of the waves at
the foot of this bluff, which is one of the finest basaltic rocks
in the island.

In the bay at Grand Port is a large crater, the walls of which
are distinctly visible on a fine day from a boat. It appears
about 300 yards in diameter, is of great depth, and the hue of
the water changes to a dark shade, almost black, just over its
centre.

Dr. Ayres, in his ' Geology of Flat and Gabriel Islands,' gives
the following interesting notices : — ' In Flat Island, nearly facing
Kound Island, we find the fossilised remains of an extensive
forest, consisting of stumps of trees closely planted, about two
feet high, hollow in the centre to the base, and some of them
two feet in diameter.

' The greater part of them are endogens, presenting the ap-
pearance of the enlarged bases of palms, though many of the
roots appear to possess an exogenous character.

' The outer crust is hard, lined on the inner and hollowed sur-
face by a loose intertwined network of coarse fibres, such as are
seen in the interior of cocoa and other palms, and screw pines.
On some parts of the denuded surface of the volcanic rocks,
roots are thickly interlaced, and the still finer fibres of the roots
appear to form the chief part of the stratum, which is about
fifteen feet deep. It is hard and structureless, resembling a
muddy substance recently calcified.

' Here and there a perfect stump is visible, intermixed with
masses of loose coral and shells of existing species. On the

134 FORMATION OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. IX.

ground above the lava, covered with grass and herbage, trunks
of trees are visible, broken and lying on the surface, one of
them, four or five feet long, presenting the appearance of the
trunk of a palm. No sea shells are found in this stratum
occupied by the roots of trees, though abundant in the coral
strata below.'

From the foregoing facts, the following ideas suggested
themselves to me, as to the original formation of Mauritius.
A terrific convulsion of a power almost inconceivably great
must have upheaved it, and the adjacent islands, Eodriguez,
Bourbon, and perhaps even Madagascar itself, in one vast tract
of cones of various elevations, columnar masses, &c.

This is not at all impossible when we consider that an earth-
quake was sufficient to raise nearly 200 leagues of coast in
Chili ; and another, in India, upheaved a hill fifty miles long-
by sixteen broad, turning aside the course of the Indus ; and a
thousand other well-known incidents.

In process of time, the sloping sides of the great crater, and
the currents of lava as they cooled, were covered with layers of
earth, in which sprang up the gigantic palms and other trees,
forming vast, voiceless forests ; for we have no traces of animal
life at this epoch, if we except the few land shells that have
been found.

Fresh convulsions, causing these elevated cones to split and
topple over, buried the forest in their debris, and submerged
the whole once again in the depths of the ocean. But the
volcanic action, terrific as it must have been to cause this sub-
mergence, was evidently unequal in force in different parts of
this large tract of land.

On the side from Flacq to Flat Island, the superincumbent
masses on the buried forests were so great as to isolate them in
the earthy debris, and in the course of ages they became
fossilised without any mixture of marine deposits from the
surrounding ocean, as is proved by the stratum in which they
are found being destitute of sea shells and corals.

Strange to say, the two species of land shells, the Caracalla
Lesteri and Helix rufa, are precisely similar to the living-
species that are now found, the former infesting the cocoa trees
on the sea-board of Mauritius. The volcanic action on the south
side of the island was evidently different in character and

Ch. IX.] SUBMERGENCE. 135

intensity. The submergence of the forests there may or may
not have taken place at the same time as those on the north.
It is possible there were fewer elevations there in the primitive
upheaval to be overthrown, and the subsidence may have been
so gradual, as to allow of their becoming enveloped in the
detritus from the shores, debris of sea shells and fragments of
corals, which in time formed a compact mass round them. As
the trees rotted they left the indelible impression of their forms
in the plastic mass, which, as it fossilised, left a cast as perfect as
if taken in plaster of Paris. This has deceived many into taking
what is in reality only a cast of the original tree, for the fossil
tree itself.

These casts abound in the islands near Mahebourg, particularly
in the Isle des Aigrettes. I collected specimens, and submitted
them to severe chemical tests with acids, and failed to discover
anything like fibrous tissue.

I found only fragments of corals, broken shells, and minute
foraminiferous shells, all of which I feel convinced are only
deposits of debris that abound in the bay and coasts even at the
present time.

A similar formation exists near Petite Savanne, which shows
traces of submergence, and in this as in other cases rests on a
bed of lava.

For what length of time the whole of this vast tract lay in
the abysses of ocean none can tell, — when the upheaval took
place which separated it into groups and isolated islands, or
when it became habitable for animal life, none may know save
He who ' taketh up the isles in his hand as a very little
thing.'

CHAPTEE X.

THE MOHAERUM OR YAMSEH.

Its Origin — "Whence the name Yaraseh — The Find in the Latanier River — The Dis-
posal of their ' Bon Dieu ' — Procession for Aim's — Gouhns — How built — The
Little Procession — Orgies at Plaine Verte — Colours worn by Indians — Grand
Procession — The Lion — Breaking the Gouhns — Return Home — Ignorance of the
Actors in the Yamseh.

One of the principal Mahommedan festivals in Mauritius is the
Yamseh. It took its rise from the disputes among the follow-
ers of Mahommed, on the question of prophetical succession.

The Turks and Arabians recognised Abou Beker, Omar and
Osman, as tlie rightful successors of the Prophet ; the Persian
and Indian Mahommedans denounce these three Caliphs as
usurpers, and regard Ali, the Prophet's son-in-law and minister,
as his religious and political heir.

The disputes only ended in a sanguinary contest, in which
Hossein and Hossan, the sons of Ali, were slain with sixty of
their relatives.

The name Yamseh, unknown in India, is but a local cor-
ruption of the cries of ' Ya Hossein ! ""Oh Hossan ! ' used in
the procession, which combines a religious ceremony with the
funeral rites to the memory of the slain brothers and the
rejoicings of the victorious party.

The night of every eleventh new moon is eagerly looked for
by all classes of Mahommedans, who spend days in fasting, ab-
lutions, and preparations for its appearance.

As soon as the slender crescent is visible, a procession is
formed, headed by the priests, which proceeds to the Kiver
Latanier, at this time a shallow stream just outside of Port
Louis.

A priest dives down to bring up their ' Bon Dieu,' buried the
past year in some sort of place hollowed in the bed of the river.

THE MOHARRDM OR YAMSEH.

Ch. X.] THE YAMS EH. 137

Two stones, or two lumps of some paste hardened so as to be
impervious to the water, are brought up, and they have a dual
signification, as they not only represent their Grod and Prophet,
but also the two slain brothers.

The priests conduct their newly found treasure with great
ceremony to the Temple at Plaine Verte, and for ten days and
nights strict watch is kept over it.

During this time prayers are offered up incessantly, and all
pay a small sum for every prayer the priests recite for them ;
certain food only is allowed to be eaten, and constant ablutions
are exigent. Processions round the city are made, to levy
contributions to defray the expenses of the Yamseh, and the
making of the Grouhns.

The men and children dress up in all the fantastic finery that
can be procured, and with their faces painted, making most
barbarous music with their tom-toms, they put one in mind of
the procession of sweeps on May-day, in former times, in
England.

These Grouhns are a species of pagoda on wheels, made of
bamboo bound very strongly together, and covered with gold
and silver tinsel and many-coloured papers.

They consist of several stories, the one at the base largest,
and gradually diminishing in size upwards, terminating in a
dome. Pretty Chinese paper lanterns are hung from all the
corners, and, when to be used at night, are lit up from within
also. One very large Grouhn, handsomely adorned with gold
and silver paper, flowers and tinsel, is constructed with great
ceremony.^

The three stories are each built in a separate hut, and when
completed the side walls are thrown down, to allow each part to
be carefully lifted out, lest by any accident the threshold of the
door should be touched, which would bode evil. They are
then firmly bound one over the other, and taken to the Temple,
where the two river-found Grod and Prophet representatives are
placed in it, and a watch is placed over it night and day till
the Yamseh is over.

On the evening of the ninth day, the ' Little Procession ' (as

1 The form of the Gouhns, however, varies greatly with the taste of the construc-
tors, as will be seen in the illustration of one made on an estate

L

138 A PROCESSION. ■ [Ch. X.

it is called) takes place. The inferior Gouhns are carried on
the heads of negroes hired for the pm^pose, not Mahommedans.
Lighted lanterns, flags, brass crescents, and stars are carried
aloft on sticks, and men, half nude and daubed with paint, fight
with clubs and give and parry strokes with great dexterity.
They parade through all the suburbs of the city, dancing and
screaming till midnight, when they join the revelry at Plaine
Verte.

There those who have not been in the procession enjoy what
they call a ' little amusement,' by way of breaking the mono-
tony of the long religious festival.

Large fires are lit, and in an enclosure of ropes hundreds
congregate. The women and children sit round the fires,
eating rice, cocoa cakes and sweetmeats, watching the men,
and criticising in tolerably broad language their skill as they
engage in single stick, leaping, dancing, and all kinds of rough
games ; laughing, gesticulating, and shouting in all the dialects
of the East.

The impression left after witnessing the scene is, that one has
spent a few hours on the confines of Pandemonium.

Watch the weird flickering lights of the fires, spreading an
unearthly hue over everything ; the groups of the half-nude
savages (I say savages advisedly, as for the time being all trace
of civilisation is lost) ; men, women, and children all more or
less intoxicated, the latter mingling their shrill voices with the
howling of the men — and at times there comes a stifling smell
of incense, mingled with other odours indescribable ; and it
needs little imagination to believe it a living, acted scene from
Dante's Inferno, or the wild orgies and unholy revels of the
Brocken on Walpurgis Night.

The tenth is the grand day for which so many preparations
have been made, and so many thousands of ells of crimson,
pink, and yellow calicoes, muslins, and even silks have been sold
for Indian vests and waist cloths. Black is never worn by the
Indians in their native costumes. Grreen is a sacred colour,
worn only by the higher classes, and by them for a badge of
mourning alone.

The procession is formed at the Temple, and the principal
Grouhns are brought out and carried steadily along, the priests
monotonously chanting round them.

Ch. X.J INDIAN IDOLATRY. I39

The smaller ones are carried by men who might be afflicted
with St. Anthony's fire, for they unceasingly danced and whirled
about like madmen.

One part of the procession is formed by mourners for the
brothers, wearing a piece of the sacred green stuff round their
loins, beating their breasts, howling, and uttering cries of
' Ya Hossein ! Oh Hossan !' and contests with blunt swords and
sticks go on in all directions, in memory of the ensanguined
field.

The Lion that watched over the sacred remains of All's sons
is represented by a brawny follower of the Prophet, whose skin
is painted to imitate the tawny hide, and a goatskin thrown
over his shoulders for a mane.

He utters the most hideous roars as he rushes about the
crowd, restrained by a cord held by a priest.

Grroups dressed in little more than horns and tails, mon-
strously streaked with paint, are supposed to be devils rejoicing
at Hossein and Hossan's death, and they leap about, causing
endless confusion.

The sham combats with swords and clubs go on till the pro-
cession reaches the river Latanier.

The inferior Grouhns that have been injured are flung into
the river, after being torn to atoms by the children.

The large one is reverently lowered to the water's edge, and
the god descends to his river bed, to sleep again for a year, and
his pagoda is taken back to the Temple, to be decked up afresh
on his awaking.

The whole procession is then broken up, and the rabble rout
return to finish their day in feasting. On the morrow, all but
a few bons-a-rien return to their work, though the events of
these ten days serve for topics of conversation for months to
come.

Formerly, real combats took place, and blood was often shed,
till the police were obliged to interfere ; and now it is a
comparatively quiet affair, few of the higher classes of
Mahommedans taking part in it.

The true Mahommedan element is fast dying out of this
festival, and Indian superstition and idolatry usurping its
place.

Not one in five hundred knows anything of the origin of all

I40 A PAINTED DEVIL. [Ch. X.

this ; when asked they tell you to go to the priests, as it is their
business to know all about it.

They only know it as a recognised holiday, accompanied by
unlimited strong drinks, feasting, and, dearer than even those to
an Indian — noise !

On some of the estates the Yamseh is kept up with as much if
not more preparation than in Port Louis, and the Grouhns are
quite as fine, being subscribed for by all the Indians in the camp ;
' and they get leave from their masters to go round to the various
private houses in the vicinity to display them and get money.
The combatants with single sticks, and performers who cleverly
twirl a long slender pole round their heads, keeping it spinning
for some minutes, dancers and howlers to the tom-toms,
accompany the Grouhns ; and they are generally well behaved,
as a policeman is sure to put in an appearance where there is a
group congregated. I once watched the painting of one of the
devils : the fellow was seated in an old box, his arms straight down
and head erect, while the artist knelt before him. He had just
completed the body, with a heart over the chest, and white and
coloured lines diverging from it in all directions, continued over
the arms ; and at the moment of my arrival he was standing, with
folded arms, contemplating his work, quite regardless of the
rain then beginning to fall. He then proceeded to the face,
which was rendered as hideous as paint could make it, the
fellow's eyes glittering out of heavy rings of white paint. I
remained till half was done, but not a word could be got from
either, it was far too serious a matter. That the work was luell
done I had positive proof, for I saw it exposed to a good sharp
shower with but little effect on it.

CHAPTER XI.

A VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND

Departure from Port Louis — The Voyage — Arrival andDifficulty of Landing — Size
and Formation of the Island — The Flora — Dinner — Preparations for sleeping
— Fishing — Geological Description of the Island.

From the many accounts that had been given me of the re-
markable geological formation of Round Island (which lies
about twenty-five miles from Port Louis), and its peculiar Flora,
differing in so many particulars from that of Mauritius and
the neighbouring islands, I determined to avail myself of the
first opportunity that offered and visit it.

On December 6, 1868, I made an arrangement with Mr.
Vandermeesch, the proprietor -of the island, and Lieutenant
Robinson of the Royal Artillery, to proceed thither on the
following day.

We secured a good boat of about ten tons, and a stock of
provisions was placed on board sufficient for the subsistence of
seven men for some time.

This precaution was especially necessary from the delightful
uncertainty as to the result of our voyage. First, we might
be overtaken by bad weather, when the island would be un-
approachable, and there was just a possibility of our being
driven out to sea ; secondly, we might land and be unable to get
off again for many days.

Precisely as the gun fired from the Fort, or 8 clock, p.m., the
hawser which held our neat little craft to the end of the
Mauritius Dock was cast off, and our sail hoisted.

The night was gloomy, and heavy clouds hung on the horizon
indicative of rain, but now and then a few stars would peep out
from the dark canopy, and cheer us on our way.

The wind failed, and the men had to use their oars through
the labyi'inth of vessels in the harbour of Port Louis.

142 A BOAT VOYAGE. [Ch. XI.

All was still, save the plash of the sweeps, as we glided through
the silent waters.

After considerable rowing, we reached the light-ship. Its
rays flash brilliantly across the waves, and can be seen for many
miles cheering the mariner on his way, or guiding him safely into
port. Now we were fairly out in the deep waters of the Indian
Ocean ; and a light breeze springing up, the oars were laid by,
and our pretty little boat, the ' Beautiful Jane,' sailed along
like a duck. Our crew was selected from the most skilful
fishermen of Grrand Eaie, and our skipper, an old Creole, knew
every rock, reef, and current round the coast. The night being
dark, a watch was set, lest we should run into any of the little
fishing boats bound in a different direction.

The time passed away pleasantly, spinning yarns about sharks
and other monsters, together with a highly coloured descrip-
tion of what I might expect to see on the morrow.

When daylight appeared we found ourselves some miles in a
northerly direction from Grunner's Quoin. With us the sea was
smooth, though there was a swell from the north.

Eound Island then stood due east from us, at a distance of
about ten miles.

We were favoured with a fine breeze, which increased as old
Sol raised his head from the ocean. The morning was bright
and clear, doubly welcome and refreshing to those who had
been breathing only the heavy fever-laden atmosphere of Port
Louis for some time ; and especially to me, who had been suffer-
ing for some days from the epidemic. Though tolerably calm
with us, we could see the white foam breaking over the Quoin
as the waves beat against its bold cliffs.

The gentleness of heaven is on the sea.
Listen ! the mighty being is awake,
And doth with his eternal motion make
A sound like thunder — everlastingly.

But the sunrise ! Those who have never seen a sunrise at
sea have reserved for them a glorious sight. This morning
the orb of day rose in all his grandem: from out the wilderness
of waters ; so placid and tranquil was the scene that I was invo-
luntarily struck by its contrast with the fearful heavy swell roll-
ing in over the shoal water between the Quoin and Cannonier's
Point, breaking on the rocks with a booming roar, threatening

Ch. XL] ROUND ISLAND. 143

destruction to any craft that ventured near them, and warning
us to bear away and keep a good distance from the land.

For the first time on this coast I saw a little stormy petrel,
Thalassidroma milanogaster. One solitary bird was following
in our wake, swiftly and gracefully sweeping over the waves.
This interesting creature is aptly reverenced by seamen ; for,
diminutive as it is, it braves the fiercest storms, and ' skims
o'er ocean's angriest flood.'

At noon we arrived at our destination on the SE. of Eound
Island, and made preparations to disembark.

I at once saw that what had been told me of the difficulty of
landing was no exaggeration. Luckily our fishermen crew made
tlieir arrangements skilfully. The boat was allowed to drift
within a few feet of the table rock, our landing-place, against
which the waves were breaking.

At this stage we had to wait, and watch for an opportunity
for one of our crew to jump ashore with a rope, so that the boat
might be kept bow on and steady. When this was effected,
the rope was securely fastened to iron rings placed there for that
purpose years ago ; and then our provisions, water, &c., were
passed on shore.

When everything was safely landed, each one watched for the
moment when the boat rose, and sprung on to the rock with a
bound that made every nerve quiver ; and it needed a sure foot
and steady eye to alight firmly on the slippery stone.

If our little craft, which rose and fell some ten or twelve feet,
had struck her bows on the precipitous ledge, she would have
been hurled to Davy Jones's locker, and all in her in a few
seconds. The depth of the water is about four fathoms here.

When all were safely on shore, the boat was taken out to some
distance from land and anchored, with two of her crew left
on board to take care of her.

Near the landing is a cave, made by an immense portion of
detached rock having slidden off into the sea, leaving a cliff",
which overhangs it, and forming a very good shelter from the
fierce rays of the sun ; and in rainy weather, the water rushes
in torrents over it, but does not enter.

This cave rises from the sea, at an angle of forty-five degrees,
for about a hundred feet, and is approached from the landing
rock, on the right of it, by carefully stepping up the small

144 A CA VE. [Ch. XI.

projections on its sides. We descended about twelve feet, and
then came to the floor of the cave, which we selected as the
base of our operations. Into this we took all our worldly
goods, and great care was needed to secure them from rolling
into the sea. Lay down any solid article carelessly, and away
it went, with a velocity that no efforts of ours could check, into
the water, and was lost.

After giving our orders to the men to prepare a meal for us,
we started off exploring, each in a different direction.

Eound Island is about a mile long by three quarters broad,
of extremely irregular formation, frequently intersected by deep
fissures which increase in width towards the sea, when they
form singular openings and caves. At a distance it appears
like one great solid mountain.

The passage from the base upwards, through a gulch about
700 feet, is rough and difficult. The most curious geological
phenomena are to be seen in this gulch, which has, in the
course of ages, been worn away by the elements.

Distinctly visible are the different strata lying on each other,
and well defining the different periods. The peculiar forms
which these rocks take are very remarkable. Some parts re-
semble the ruins of old Grothic structures ; others of a series of
elegant pulpits, carved out of Eed Sandstone ; and many are like
baptismal fonts, similar to those used at the present day, the
whole forming a unique and singular formation. At this ele-
vation is a tolerably open spot, easy of ascent.

The whole island is covered with endogens, palms, vacoas,
&c., among which I particularly noticed the following: one
palm, supposed to be the Areca alha, or ' Chou palmiste,' which
grows in Mauritius ; ^ a second, which is indigenous to Round
Island, in fact, unknown in any other part of the world. This
palm has long been called the Jubcea spectahilis, but this name
is now proved to be an error.^

' With respect to this palm and others of the Round Island trees, I will quote
some of the notes made by the Grovernor after their expedition, when he and
Mr. Home studied the botany of this place. He was inclined to consider the one
in question, not the Areca ctlha, but a separate species ; and says, 'It struck me at
once, on seeing it in flower, that its red petals were quite different; and Mr. Home,
on subsequent comparison, has found other structural variations in the blossom, also
in the large anthers.'

^ The slightest comparison will show the discrepancies between this palm and

Ch. XL] FLORA OF ROUND ISLAND. 145

A third palm, the Latania glaucophylla, grows in great
abundance, and is believed also to be indigenous. A few plants
have been found on Flat Island, but they are conjectured to
have sprung from seeds washed up by the tides.

The Pandanus Vandernfieeschii is very numerous. This
was discovered by the gentleman of that name (our companion),
who sent specimens of it to the Botanical Grardens at Grhent,
where they received the above name. This is quite different
from the vacoa used for making sugar bags, the Pandanus
utilis : this latter I did not see, though I am told that some
few plants have been found.

Eound the summit of the mountain I saw a species of aloe
which I have not met with in Mauritius.^ A report on Eound
Island was written twenty-five years ago by a Colonel Lloyd, an
engineer, who went there for the purpose of examining it. He
mentions a belt of forest trees, such as bois rond, ebony, benzoin,
&c. ; but they must have been nearly all cut down or destroyed,
as we found few traces of them.^

A few patches of rough grasses enliven this rugged island,
and on them feed numbers of rabbits and goats, but wild as the
proverbial ' March hare.' The Ipowioea maritima grows at an
elevation of 800 feet, the seeds, doubtless, having been brought
hither by birds.

The only fern I found was a small species of the Adiantu7)i
caudatuTYi, so common in Mauritius, which seems to flourish

the true Jub(sa spectahilis of Chili, which is stated to be a lofty palm, whilst the
Round Island tree never exceeds fifteen feet. The spathe surrounding the blossom
of the former is monophyllous, that of the latter has eight or nine leaves, and the
flowers differ in almost every particular. The fruit of the one is a little cocoa-
nut with three perf<^rations at the top, that of the other a small green berry : from
the latter, as well as from other circumstances, indeed, I fully expect to hear that
the Round Island palm turns out to be a species of Areca, an idea in which I have
been confirmed by learning from Mr. Home that the somewhat similar palm from
Rodriguez, styled Juhcea speciosa, has been recently described in Holland as the
Areca Verschaffeltii.

' 'It is proved to be quite different from the " Socotrine du pays " of Mauritius,
and is probably new.'

2 ' The belt of hard-wood timber mentioned by Colonel Lloyd is confined to the
central ridge of the summit, a few trees only existing. The presence of that narrow
belt of trees, with the analogies and discrepancies they present when compared with
those of the adjacent main island, is certainly one of the most puzzling problems
presented by this curious little islet.'

146 SNAKES AND BIRDS. [Ch. XI.

best among rocks in the hardest and driest soilJ The
Round Island fern appears a variety from the Mauritian type.

I captured a number of lizards, spiders, scorpions, phasmas,
and other insects, but will give an account of them later. One
of my comrades killed a snake of the Colubra tribe, about two
feet long, and two inches in circumference. The back was
mottled with black and white spots, and the belly reddish with
l)lack markings. It was what a naturalist would call an ugly
customer : it does not run from you, but elevates its head at your
approach r and prepares to give battle. A large one was seen by
one of the fishermen, who said it was six or seven feet long, and
as large round as his arm. He was carrying a long pole on his
shoulder, at each end of which were suspended several Pailles-
en-queues, or tropic birds {Phaeton ruhricauda). The snake
reared his head to attack him, when he dropped the pole to
pick up a stone to throw at it ; but the birds made such a noise
that the reptile slunk away into a heap of vacoa leaves near by,
and he lost it.

Towards the NE. I came suddenly to the edge of a deep gorge
before I was aware of it, formed by torrents of water pouring
down it for ages. In some places it is 500 or 600 feet deep ;
and as I stood on its brink to look down into the abyss below,
over the tops of the palms that fill its sides, I shuddered as I
thought of the fall I should have had if I had gone over.

At the foot of the gorge, opening out to the sea, the rocks are
shelving, and in little holes in them sat numbers of Pailles-en-
queues on their solitary eggs. These beautiful birds did not
attempt to move away from me, but merely uttered a shrill cry,
and prepared for resistance if disturbed. They do not build any
nest, but lay their one egg on the bare rock. It is of a reddish
brown, speckled with dark spots, and is about the size of a
duck's egg.

Young birds quite as large as their parents were easily cap-
tured by the men, who prized them for food, but I should fancy
they must taste very fishy. The plumage of the young is quite
different from that of the old ones, being mottled black and
white. I did not see a single instance of a young bird on the
wing ; and I believe it is only in the second year that they get

' As my time was so limited, I was unable to do more than make a very cursory
examination of the botany of the island; I will add extracts from the reports of the
fToveruor and Mr. Home at the end of the chapter.

Ch. XL] A MOUNTAIN. 147

their full feathers. It was curious to see every ledge filled with
young birds, from the downy fluffy ball, as large as a small
chicken, to those of the size of the parent birds, each one sitting
huddled up against the mother, and uttering notes of alarm in
every sharp key their unmusical voices are capable of.

I saw a good many petrels {Pufflnus chlororhyncus) sitting
in the same locality. These birds also lay a single egg, quite
white, as large as a hen's. There were no young about, and the
eggs were all fresh that I took. I observed no other birds, and
these seemed only to resort thither for the purpose of incuba-
tion at certain seasons of the year. I brought away eight or
nine tropic birds, all taken sitting, and, strange to say, they were
all males.

The Hon. Edward Newton, the Colonial Secretary, visited the
island some years ago, and published a pamphlet on its
ornithology, in which he states he observed the turtle dove
(Geopelia striata) of Gray, petrels, and tropic birds ; and he
thought these were all ever found there.

I arrived at the top of the mountain, which is 1,000 feet
above sea level by Elliot's barometer, and where stands a huge
block of basalt, ten or fifteen feet high, which is the crowning
point ; up this I climbed, and a magnificent view lay around me.
Looking down the almost perpendicular face of the NE. side of
the island, thickly studded with small shrubs, and apparently
inaccessible, thousands of the tropic birds were seen hovericg
about, uttering their sharp shrill cries, doubtless from the foot-
steps of man having intruded on what they had so long deemed
their own domain. Westward lay Serpent's Island with its
wintry appearance, white over with guano as with snow, which,
though half a mile or more distant, seemed but a step from
this elevated position. Flat Island and the Quoin appeared close
by. The atmosphere was so clear that the coast-line of Mauritius,
as far as Grrand River, SE., was mapped out distinctly, and
everywhere glistened the heavy billows of the brilliant blue
ocean, and the white spray tossed up from every reef added
beauty to the scene. Being hot, tired, and hungry, I descended,
with the determination of studying the geology of the island on
the morrow.

As soon as I reached our cave, I was delighted to find my
friends with everything prepared to satisfy the inner man. I

148 SLEEPING QUARTERS. [Ch. XI.

cannot refrain from saying a few words in praise of our Commis-
sary-Greneral, who deserved a cordon (Vhonneur for his excel-
lent arrangements for our comfort. I then first ate the heart
of the cabbage palm cut up into salad, and found it delicious,
worthy of all the encomiums I had heard lavished on it ; but it
must be eaten when fresh to be tasted in perfection.

We did full justice to the viands, and then began our arrange-
ments for the night. This is a very ticklish place for a somnam-
bulist or a nervous person to sleep in. A roll — a turn over —
and down you must go into the surging billows at the foot of
the rock, with the pleasant anticipation of the immense sharks,
and other monsters of the deep that swarm round the place,
ready to take you in at a mouthful or two the moment you
touch the water. Thus, as I said before, it is a ticklish place,
and required great care in arranging our beds. Two small
hammocks were ingeniously swung from the sides of the cave
for two of us ; but my other comrade, though a young soldier,
is an old campaigner in this line, and preferred to sleep on the
bare rock under the cliff, which he did. We passed a pleasant
night, lulled to sleep by the monotonous roar of the waters
round us.

We were up at daylight, but the morning broke gloomily, and
dark clouds indicated rain ; the barometer had fallen, and the
sea ran high, making us uneasy, as we feared a coming storm.
A smart shower of rain, however, accompanied by thunder and
lightning, smoothed down the sea considerably, and, soon after,
a magnificent rainbow spanned the dark arch of heaven.

As the weather was so uncertain, our skipper would not let
us go exploring, as he said he might want us to embark at any
moment ; so I amused myself fishing at the entrance of our cave.

Fish in myriads were swimming about the detached rocks. I
never saw a more beautiful sight. The splendid Helicanthus
Imperadore, a marvellous variety of Cheitodons, many of the
genus Serranus, Dame Berris, and others, all bright-coloured,
were swimming about gracefully in the transparent waters.

I have seen the bright-plumaged birds and insects of South
America in their native wilds, but the fish of the Indian Ocean
can vie with the most gorgeous of them. They lose their beauty
so rapidly when caught, that to be truly appreciated they must
be seen in their native element. Now and then a shark would

Ch. XL] A SOUFFLEUR. 149

show his ugly head, when the rest disappeared as if by magic.
The brute would look at me with his bright eye, and grin,
showing his ghastly maw, as if in anticipation of the meal he
hoped to get out of me should I slip over the ledge.

About 200 yards from oiu:s was another cave, inaccessible to
man. The waves would rush into it for some distance, when
the confined air would force them back to the opening with a
thundering roar, and throw the water up in volumes of spray
for a hundred feet around. I thought, as I watched the foam-
ing, seething mass, that the Souffleur at Grand Port in its an-
gTiest moments could not be compared to this. At 7 a.m. the
clouds dispersed, the sun shone out brilliantly, and our skipper
thought it safe, after breakfast, to make another excursion, of
which permission I lost no time in availing myself.

This island is evidently- formed by upheaval from the bottom
of the ocean ; it is in fact a crater of upheaval or elevation,
which formation lies in strata or laminated beds of friable
brownish volcanic sandstone and tufa. These beds are here
found inclined all round the axis of the cone, rising more and
more from the base to the summit. In one of the fissures to
the NE. immense numbers of lines of stratification are dis-
tinctly seen, indicating the different periods at which they
were formed.

More than six hundred feet from the surface, I observed
pieces of detached basaltic rocks imbedded in the sandstone,
which is entirely sedimentary deposit. For ages upon ages the
formation of these beds was going on, and layer on layer was
piled up, almost every one of which has a deposit of lava and
scoria on its surface, and these are well seen wherever openings
or fissures occur.

My opinion is that, at the time of upheaval, the whole mass
was in a plastic conglomerate state. This conclusion I have
arrived at from the peculiar undulating position in which the
stratified layers are found, and that is visible almost every-
where.

Not a fossil or water-mark could I see in the different strata
below the surface ; but above it were fragments of a white
rock, similar to variegated marble, in which lay fossil shells,
mostly microscopic. These were evidently compact masses of
limestone, probably having undergone a partial metamornhic

ISO VOLCANIC ACTION. [Ch. XL

process. The fossil shells are indefinite in outline, and appear
mere patches of white crystalline carbonate of lime, which a
few centuries longer of exposure would doubtless leave merely
as white veinings or blotches.

The general geological features of Eound Island stand as a
key, to open out to us the immensity of the periods in which
the volcanic action was going on here and at the Mauritius,
and are a convincing proof that since these isolated rocks were
upheaved an immeasurable interval of time must have elapsed.

Near and round the top and centre of the island are groups
of volcanic rocks, many tons in weight, but there is no appear-
ance of any flow of lava. These rocks may have been thrown
from some neighbouring volcano, and deposited where they
now lie, before the upheaval of the island. There is not the
least sign of any depression, or indication of a crater, on the
summit. Long after the upheaval of Eound Island, volcanic
action was still vigorous at Mauritius and in its vicinity. Sub-
marine volcanoes were active, which rose above the sea and
were again depressed. The Diamond Rock and others, appearing
so near the surface that the waves break over them in the
calmest weather, are evidently the tops of very high sub-
merged mountains which were once, in all probability, united
to the main-land. At the Table Eock, where we landed, is a
flow of lava from the SW., which is tilled with detached pieces
of scoria, similar to that at the Mauritius, but differing from
that in the strata of this island.

The current of lava flowed back against the bold and in-
accessible sides of Eound Island, cooling in waves, and remain-
ing a silent witness to the wonderful agency at work at that
time. Although this current was many feet in thickness, the
little bluff or table rock is all that remains of it, as the volcano
which furnished it, and the flow of which this is a part, dis-
appeared below the sea.

Islands thus formed by upheaval are likely to disappear as
suddenly. Most of them do so after a longer or shorter period,
either by being abraded by the constant wash of the waves, or
disintegrated by the elements, especially by the chemical action
of light, or by their mass sinking into an abyss formed beneath
them.

This last circumstance must have happened to one of the

Ch. XL]

CREATIVE CONVULSIONS.

151

Azores, elevated in 1 7 1 9, and which disappeared in 1723, leaving
in its place a depth of seventy fathoms ; and to another island
in the same region in 1638, where there is now a fathomless
abyss.

The vapour, ashes, and scoria ejected from the volcanoes of
Mauritius and its neighbom'hood, which continued through all
the successive periods of the deposits forming Eound Island, as

A FEKK.

shown by the sprinkling of them in each layer of the sandstone,
must have been dense enough to darken the sun, and intercept
the light of day. I do not believe it possible for man to have
been a witness of the horrors accompanying the eruptions and
convulsions of the early ages of this planet. We have here,
I think, another proof of the Divine forethought for man, that
the greater part of these terrific convulsions took place before
the era of human life — convulsions on so fearful a scale that
man could scarcely look on them and live ; yet they prepared
the earth for him to have his being on it.

152 • REFLECTIONS. [Ch. XI.

We have, occasionally, eruptions and earthquakes awful
enough when they do occur ; but still even the worst of them,
within historic record, are as nothing to what geology teaches
must have taken place in the Pre- Adamite world. May they
not have been sent as warnings of the instability of even the
earth itself? — warnings from the Grreat Power, 'which re-
moveth the mountains and they know it not, which shaketh
the earth out of her place, and the pillars thereof tremble ;' and
that surely as ' the mountain cometh to nought, and the rock
is removed out of its place ; as the water wears the stones, and
washes away the things that grow out of the dust of the earth,'
so even may man's hope be destroyed if he lift not up his heart
for help ' from Nature unto Nature's Grod ' ?

CHAPTER XII.

MY se€o:ni) visit to round island.

Invita.tion — The Voyage — Arrival— Object of Visit — My Share of the Work—
Dinner — Departure of the ' Victoria ' — Our Preparations for the Night, and the
Storm's — ' In Thunder, Lightning, and in Eain ' — Our Exodus from the Cave —
Nightand Morning — Preparations for Breakfast— Entomology under Difficulties
— Sail ho ! — Homeward bound — In Port Louis at last — Fauna of Eound Island
— Extracts from Sir H. Barkly's Report.

Eaely in November of 1869, I received an invitation from

H. E. Sir H. Barkly to accompany him, with several other

gentlemen, to Round Island. This expedition was entirely for

scientific purposes, to make collections of the fauna and flora of

that island.

The ' witching hour of night ' of November 9 saw us all

assembled on board the port steamer ' Victoria,' commanded on

this special occasion by the superintendent of the mercantile

marine. We slowly steamed out of the harbour, the silence of

night broken at intervals by the words of command — ' port,'

' starboard,' or ' steady,' as the case might be. A very pleasant

party His Excellency had assembled on the little craft, where

everything had been put in capital order, and his aide-de-camp

was untiring in his efforts to make everyone as comfortable as

possible.

Merrily, merrily flew our barque
Over the bounding sea.

And though Luna had long retired to rest, the sky was cloud-
less. Some of us remained aft, smoking, most of the night,
indulging in pleasant anticipations of our sojourn on the
island, and laying out plans for our work.

We arrived at our destination soon after daylight, dropped
anchor, and prepared at once for landing. By this time our
cloudless sky had given place to strong indications of rain, and

M

154 MY WORK. [Ch. XII.

heavy ciouas Imng over the mountain top. The sea was, how-
ever, perfectly smooth, most remarkably so for this quarter, and
our landing on the old table rock was effected without difficulty.
The present lessee of the island was there, waiting to receive
us, and, in honour of the Grovernor's visit, had previously
erected a curious and ingenious landing bridge, in order to
avoid the trouble and danger we had formerly experienced.
The contrivance answered admirably, and in a short time all
were landed, with our scientific apparatus.

We proceeded at once to the cave of former pleasant me-
mories, and, to our surprise, found still the same kindly fore-
thought awaiting us that had designed the bridge. A table was
erected, with a supply of excellent cafe au lait, &c., particularly
refreshing after our voyage, and to which all did ample justice.

Soon after, we separated into groups, each person with some
definite object in view. The Grovernor, with a small party of
assistants, started off botanising ; several other gentlemen,
shouldering their guns, strode off to wage relentless warfare
against the feathered tribes.

While all my friends were thus engaged in the pursuit of
scientific knowledge under the most agreeable aspects, I was
not idle. I had been entrusted with the zoological department
generally, and was determined nothing should escape me. I was
well prepared for action, with jars, bottles, and implements of tax-
idermy, so that specimens could be preserved on the spot. I com-
menced operations by climbing up the ledges of rocks, and, down
on all fours, was soon busy robbing the Fouquets and Pailles-en-
queues of their young and eggs, and poking them out of the holes
of the rocks with a long stick ; thus exciting the ire of the parent
birds, which displayed itself in a peculiar sobbing, mournful
cry, and by showing fight with beak and wings. Frequently,
in routing them out, I met with a different customer, such as a
snake, lizard, or spider, all of which were game to my net. The
taxidermist at the college was my auxiliary, and the old fellow
looked with astonishment as I pulled out the birds without
getting bitten. Scattered over the island as we were, our party
was enabled to do a great deal in a short space of time. Many
curious plants were discovered by the botanists, and I under-
stand one entirely new palm was found by His Excellency.

After exploring the deep gorges, and scrambling up the steep

Ch. XI L] PREPARA TIONS. 1 5 5

mountain's side, all re-assembled in the cave for rest and refresh-
ment, some notably showing fatigue, arisiDg from being un-
accustomed to rough climbing. I had a great advantage there
from long habit ; for, though I had been on the move all day,
1 was still fresh, and highly delighted with the additional
knowledge I had gained of the island.

Slight showers had fallen in the day; and towards three
o'clock there were unmistakable signs of a coming storm, and
our captain proposed our leaving at once, not even deeming it
prudent to wait for dinner. The latter proposition was, how-
ever, negatived, new., con., and with anxious looks he was obliged
to give in ; but dinner over, which every one was inclined to
make the most of, the excitement about the weather giving a
double zest to our viands, our captain would hear of no longer
delay, and preparations were quickly made for returning. He
declared that if the boat did not soon leave, embarkation would
become impossible. About two o'clock my own barometer
showed sudden change, and the captain was equally aware of it.
and, as an old practical seaman, was anxious not to be caught in
such perilous quarters in a storm. I think the whole party
may thank his judgment, in hurrying matters, for their all
getting off safely.

' Not satisfied with my own investigations in the one day,
Mr. Vandermeesch and myself, with servants, resolved to re-
main that night on the island, and ascend to the top of the
mountain by daylight next morning, to examine the north
side, which I had not been able to do in my first visit.

As the ' Victoria ' left, we gave our parting friends three
cheers for a safe and speedy homeward passage, to which they
heartily responded in good wishes for us ; and it was with not
a little regret I quitted such pleasant society.

When we had watched the steamer some distance, we all set to
work with a will to make preparations for the night at the ex-
tremity of the cave described in my first visit.

Provisions and water enough for forty-eight hours had been
left us by H. E., and the Surveyor-Greneral's boat, with six men
in it, was placed at our disposal, and lay at anchor about half a
mile from the shore. Busy as we were, the elements were col-
lecting their forces more energetically still ; and at half-past six
the sea suddenly began to roll in heavily, and very soon volumes

156 A STORM. [Ch. XII.

of water ten or twelve feet deep poured over the table rock,
where our party had embarked only two hours previously. The
wash of the waves swept off our water casks, that were about
fifty yards from it, and at an elevation of about twenty-five feet ;
and they were not long before they surged into the cave, nearly
reaching the spot where we stood watching the scene in dismay,
and cutting off our retreat.

The captain of the boat, as soon as he saw the sudden change
in the weather, raised his anchor and scudded off before the wind,
and we soon lost sight of him in the heavy rolling billows.

All efforts now were turned to securing everything as far as
was practicable ; but the night was well set in before we had
finished, and the whole sky was overcast with heavy clouds.
The reverberations of the deep rolling thunder made the moun-
tain tremble, and the vivid flashes of lightning occasionally
lit up the foaming, seething mass of waters below us, madly
dashing against the rocks, the spray thoroughly drenching us.

Then came the rain in a deluge to add to our troubles ; and
it was not long before the torrents rushing down the mountain
poured over the precipice forming the roof to our cave, in a
cascade twenty feet wide, bringing with them stones of all sizes,
that struck the bottom of the cave with great force, and then
bounded off into the sea, now and then giving us a sharp blow.
Here we remained, the sea gradually encroaching on our quarters,
till we were obliged to crowd in the farthest corners, and hold
on to prevent our being washed away. Matters were getting too
exciting to be pleasant, and we felt some effort must be made
to escape from our perilous position.

The day before, a long rope had been strongly attached to the
rock above, and one end was hanging down over the precipice; but
unluckily it had been placed on the lowest part, where the hea-
viest body of water was falling. Fortunately the rope was long,
and my comrade emerged from his hiding-place, and, watching
his chance, seized the rope, and, holding on like grim death,
managed to draw it in, and worked it along away from the cas-
cade, thus succeeding in hitching it over the projecting side of
the rock, which showed a perpendicular face about thirty feet
high. I never saw anything more bravely done, and at the risk
of his life, for, a false step, and nothing could have saved him ; as

Ch, XII.] A PERILOUS POSITION. 157

it was, he got a severe contusion on his head and side from a
stone striking hinie

Nothing daunted, the plucky little fellow, as the smallest and
lightest man amongst us, was the first to ascend the rope ; and
I confess the time we were waiting for the welcome signal of
his safe arrival was one of awful suspense, for it was a mere
chance if the rope held out, or if he could fight against the
wind and driving rain.

At last, to our great joy, above the roar of the elements we
heard his welcome ' all right ! ' I next ascended, and, divested of
all but an old blue shirt and trowsers, I grasped the rope and
swung on to the projecting cliff, and commenced mounting,
hand over hand. It was nervous work, swinging thus in mid
air, between life and death, as a slip would have sent me into
the yawning gulf below. I was soon high enough to rest my
feet on the side of the rock, and could hear my friend urging
me on in a voice that seemed to come from the clouds. I felt
deeply thankful when I arrived at the top, in spite of my hands
and feet being lacerated and bleeding, and my body bruised all
over, to say nothing of the loss of the greater part of my un-
whisperables. We then managed to get up the four men, for-
tunately without further accident than bruises and rags similar
to our own. I must say the men all behaved well, and showed
a resolute spirit to battle with the unpleasant position we were
in ; and luckily for us, for one coward might have imperilled
the lives of all.

It was after midnight, as well as we could guess, when the
last man reached the top ; and our troubles were far from ended.
The rain, thunder, and lightning were incessant, and our foot-
hold was very precarious, and compelled us to hold on to the
projections of the rocks. To thoroughly appreciate our position,
it should be understood that the mountain here rises at an angle
of about sixty degrees, and the sticks and stones rushing down
with the torrents of water as they swept by us, added to our
bruises, and assisted wofully in the desintegration of our gar-
ments.

The roar of the sea was deafening, and every high wave that
struck the rock sent its spray over us, high up as we were ; and
we dared not advance, lest we should fall into one of the gorges

158 A HARD LOT, [Ch. XII.

that are frequent en the mountain side, so there was nothing
for it but to hold on.

Pluck and patience must now prevail ;
'Twas no use quaking and turning pale.

The ocean round us was so white with foam, that as the
glare of the lightning revealed it to us it resembled a vast
field of billowy snow. Though we were in such a perilous po-
sition ourselves, we forgot it momentarily to think of the little
boat that lately left, and shuddered to conjecture its possible
fate, as no boat built by human hands could have lived in so
wild a storm.

There we clung till daylight gradually unfolded our piteous
plight — six half-drowned, ragged, and bruised, miserable spe-
cimens of humanity, lying face down to the wet rocks, waiting
for it to be light enough to grope our way above the reach of
the salt spray. But moving was no easy matter, sore and stiff
as we were. To add to our troubles, we began painfully to
realise that we were without food and water.

The sea still beat against the rocks heavily, but the sky was
clear and cloudless; and very welcome we found the cheering rays
of the sun. The bridge, erected with so much care, was washed
away, as well as the table in the cave where we had so heartily
enjoyed our dinner the day before, and everything not swept
out of the cave was thoroughly drenched. A fishing net we had
used in the afternoon was still safe, and the men managed to
drag the pools in the cavities of the rocks, into which numbers
of fish had been thrown up in the storm, and captured some ;
but how to cook them was the question, which was settled by
the men collecting dead palm and vacoa leaves, and spreading
them out to dry for fire-wood. My friend and I hobbled about
in search of Pailles-en-queue eggs and fresh water ; the latter
unattainable till we got to the summit of the mountain, where
we found a pool of rain water, from which a herd of wild goats
was drinking. We collected a quantity of eggs, but were at a loss
how to carry them, till necessity, stern mother of invention,
came to my aid, and, with the help of a leathern strap round my
waist, I made a bag of my shirt.

To our great delight on our descent, we found the men had
lit a fire with a common tin metal tinder-box, luckily kept shut

Ch. XIL] waiting. 159

and dry, and were broiling the fish. Our eggs made a capital
oinelette a Vlsle Ronde, and with a palmiste salad we fared
sumptuously. The sun, in the course of the day, dried up
everything outside, but our cave was still inaccessible, as the
sea had not yet subsided ; so we had to look out for sleeping
quarters, which we found in a hole high up in the rock. Hard
as our bed was, we slept soundly till next morning, in defiance
of the cold breeze which played over our rag-covered limbs.
By daylight all were up, anxiously gazing round the horizon
for a sail, as we hoped our boat had gone to Mapou Bay, and
would come for us when the storm was over — but no boat
greeted our longing eyes. My hands and feet were so swollen
that I could scarcely use them, and my poor friend's eye and face
were in a sad state ; but we still managed to crawl after more
fresh eggs, while the men drew the net again. The sea was
suflSciently down for us to enter our cave to collect the few
things not washed away ; and I was delighted to find that my
jars of insects, &c., collected the first day, and which I had wedged
in a crevice of the rock, were still intact. Near my sleeping-
berth that was to have been I found a good-sized snake, and, a
little higher up, a large scorpion over four inches in length,
both driven in by stress of weather. One of the men brought
me a five-inch-long centipede in his bare hand, and was about to
break off the mandibles, when I begged for the specimen entire.
Afterwards I saw many that had been carried down the side of
the mountain in the streams.

Time hung heavily with us, which it certainly would not
have done but for our disabled state, so we selected a nice
cool place, and lay down to rest our weary bones ; exploring was
out of the question. We had made up our minds we should
have to remain for some days, so determined to make the best of
it. We had found a place where a cliff projects over a gully,
and where, in the absence of rain, we could make a comfortable
sleeping-place — barring the snakes, lizards, and centipedes ; and
here we lay, snugly ensconced in our holes, with a full view of
the ocean.

About two o'clock, a fishing-boat was seen to the north of us
and we tried to attract attention by hoisting a flao- made of one
of our ragged garments. They soon saw us, but were afraid to come
close in ; yet, after some pressing, they consented to take one of

i6o A SAFE RETURN. [Ch. XII.

us who would spring off the rock into the boat, it being too
rough to allow it to touch. I proposed that my friend should
go and leave me with the men, but he said he preferred remain-
ing to see what he could save ; and besides, he wanted to come
direct to Port Louis, and the men would only go to Mapou.
There was no time to lose, so, wishing my brave comrade good-
bye, and promising to send him relief as soon as possible, I
watched my chance as the waves receded, and sprang to the
deck of the boat, but came down with such a shock that I should
have pitched head first but for the skipper's catching me in
his brawny arms. The boat headed for Mapou, where I
landed about six o'clock, barefooted, coatless, and ragged, and was
obliged to take refuge in a Chinaman's shop from the wondering
gaze of all the coloured ladies of the village ! After buying a
loaf and box of sardines, I was glad to hide myself in a carriole
and start for the city, thankful that the moon had not yet
risen.

On my arrival at Port Louis, I learnt that the Surveyor-
Greneral's boat had not returned. I at once sent off the carriole
man with instructions to the fishermen to leave by daylight in
the morning to fetch the rest of the party, and I had the
pleasure of seeing my friend safely (if not soundly) back on
Sunday.

On the night of our adventure, our boat was carried out to sea,
and it was only with the greatest skill and care it had been kept
afloat in the storm ; and it was not till two days later that the
captain was enabled to reach Mapou Bay, with all hands safe.

I should state that the ' Victoria ' steamer had great difficulty
in reaching the harbour safely, on account of the high wind,
and heavy sea and intense darkness. The atmosphere was also
so fully charged with electricity that the compasses were
seriously affected by it.

When I came to examine the various specimens of natural
history I had collected in my two visits to Round Island, I found
them most interesting.

I had four distinct species of lizards, ^ one of which was over a
foot in length, mottled gray on the back, white on the belly and
feet, and excessively plump and clumsy, and which bears the

' As I then thought, from their varied size and colours

Ch. XII.] LIZARDS. i6i

name of Scincus Telfairii. I met with it in almost every part
of the island, and very tame ; so much so that it was easily
captured. It was difficult, however, to get a perfect specimen,
on account of the animal throwing off its tail when handled —
a peculiarity of this genus. It had a curious jerking motion,
running a little way, and then stopping abruptly.

The second in size which I captured was about six inches in
length ; it is a pretty active little creature, generally found in the
steep rocks on the sides of the mountain, but not so numerous
as the first-mentioned. These lizards deposit from six to twelve
white eggs, the size of an ounce musket-ball, in a row on the
branches of the Latania glaucophylla, which I could not detach
without breaking, so firmly were they glued to the bark. I
believe this lizard is as yet undescribed.

The third species, the Scincus Bojerii, is very small, of a dark
colour, with light stripes across the back. This is very active, and
with difficulty captured : it was, however, numerous though shy.
I looked in vain for the eggs of this lizard, as well as for those
of the Telfairii, turning over stones and heaps of cacoa leaves
without success. This lizard is the same as the one so common
in Mauritius (Platydactylus Cepedianus).

The fourth lizard is about four inches in length, slender and
active, darting about in every direction, but not easily caught.
Its colour was dark olive, with longitudinal light stripes. This
is the Scincus Boutonii.

These Scinci, with the exception of the Bajerii and
Platydactylus, I have never seen in Mauritius, nor do I think
they exist here.

I mentioned having found one species of snake in my first
visit, but in my second exploration I obtained four other differ-
ent snakes ; one of them about four feet in length, and six inches
in circumference. Another small serpent reared and flattened its
head so much that I concluded it was poisonous. It was very
pugnacious and bold. At that time, however, I had lost my glass,
and could not examine its teeth ; but later inspection induced me
to believe it was also a Colubra, and harmless. Unlike any other
snake that I know, it glides with extreme rapidity over the
ground, with its head elevated.

Mauritius might well have been visited by the Irish saint :
for not any snake has ever been known here, as native, which

i62 SPIDERS. [Ch. XII.

makes it so remarkable when they are so very abundant in a
little island within twenty-five miles of it.

I was fortunate enough to find a great number of Grasteropoda
of the genus Cyclostoma, which bear the name, I believe, of
the Chcemiostoma ; and it is not found anywhere else in the
known world, except at Flat, and perhaps at Serpent Islands.
It has a red mouth, and is twice the size of the G. Lester^ found
at Mauritius.

I took several species of spiders. The largest were, I think,
of the genus Phryne, noted for the excessive tenuity of the
anterior feet, flattened bodies, and palpi resembling feet termi-
nating in claws, and bearing a resemblance to scorpions deprived
of their tails. This genus is, I believe, principally known in
America, Seychelles, and the East Indies, but I know nothing
like it in Mauritius.

In the ' Dictionnaire des Sciences naturelles,' at p. 6^^ is
figured a Phryne i^eniforme, resembling the Eound Island
spiders, except in the termination of the palpi. The latter end
in two long forked spines, and three short simple ones, exclusive
of the sharply-pointed claw ; and the palpi are of a uniform
thickness, and covered with short bristly spines : whereas the
Phryne reniforme has the palpi small at the base, but increasing
in bulk to the claw, and edged with a friuge of long spines.
M. Vinson, who has written a large work on the ' Mascarene
Arachnids,' does not even mention the genus.

One spider very much resembles the Mauritian Olios leucosa
in form, colour, and manner of holding its egg-bag ; another
has the silver bands on the body, very similar to the Fpeira
Mauritia (Vinson) ; and one is, I think, very similar to the
genus Thomisus (Dumeril), but I do not recollect meeting with
it in Mauritius.

On the broken leaves of the cacao I saw a number of small
scorpions, two of which I caught. They seem entirely different
from those in the main island, or from specimens I have seen
from the rest of the Mascarene group or the East Indies.

On my first visit to Eound Island I captured a scorpion of a
bright green, just the colour of the leaves of the Jubsea palm
it was disporting on. The creature was very active and defiant,
and it was with difficulty I caught him. The length of tail is
remarkable compared with all the others. I think it must be

Ch. XII.] SCORPIONS. 163

rare, as I diligently searched for it during my second visit, but
without success. Though 1 failed to find another green one,
I came upon a formidable and ugly-looking animal — a third
species of scorpion. It appears to be common in the crevices
of the rocks, and under the stones round the summit of the
mountain. It is most pugnacious, and, when headed off from
its retreat, shows fight by raising the palpi, and clapping them
together, making a clicking noise like a crab.

This scorpion measured 8^ inches from the tip of the palpi
to the tail. The palpi measure 3| inches in length, and are
1| in circumference. The body and legs are brown, and the
palpi black. I tried hard to capture another that was running
off very fast over the stones, with what I took to be a Scincus
Boutonii in its claws.

I have examined some specimens of scorpions in the Museum,
but I can find nothing exactly like the large Eound Island one.

Centipedes abounded. The large one I got from one of the men
had its full complement of legs, namely, twenty-one pairs, giving
forty-two feet. It is, I believe, the Scolopendre 'fnordante of
Dumeril (^Scolopendra morsitans of Linnaeus). It appears to
me to differ from the Mauritian centipedes, but resembles some
I have seen from Eodrigues and the East Indies.

During my visit in 1868 I caught a singular bee on the
flowers of the Ijjomcea maritima. Its general colour was
a deep crimson, striated on the body with bright yellow. There
are many specimens of bees in the Museum from different parts
of the world, but I could find none resembling it in colour and
markings.

I saw only one dragon-fly on the island — a common Libellula
in Mauritius. It is very possible this may have been blown
from the main island, as it is an insect of such strong and
rapid flight.

I captured a Grryllus somewhat resembling the Truxalles nasus
of Dumeril, but it has the tail-like appendages of the locust,
and much finer antennae. The common male cricket (Gryllo-
talpa vulgaris) is numerous, and just like the Mauritian one,
which is indigenous here.

The ' dry-stick ' insect, or Phasma, is common at Round
Island. The nearest approach I can find to two 1 caught is the
Phasma geant of Dumeril, though in this species the tubercle?

i64 SII^ H. BARKLYS REPORT. [Ch. XII.

on the corselet are very prominent in five pairs, and there are
two pairs on the thorax. In those from Eound Island the
tubercles are very numerous, and almost microscopically small,
extending nearly over the whole back to the abdominal ex-
tremity, where the appendages are marked differently to the
Mauritius one. Two other Phasmas I procured I at first took
to be of different species, as they varied so greatly in colour —
one was of a bright green, and one a brown ; but on careful
examination later, I concluded that they were the same. I pre-
sume the diversity of colour may be owing to the difference of
age or sex, or probably from the peculiar food it might have
partaken of when in the larva state, which is well known to
affect other insects. I see that the Grovernor, in his report,
mentions that this change of colour is not uncommon in this
genus, as Cuvier, speaking of the Fhasma rossia, from the
south of France, says it is either of a yellow green or greyish
browu .

I have compared my Round Island specimens of Phasmas
with twenty-seven others in the Museum, but all differ essen-
tially. I got a number of Coleoptera, one only resembling
those at the Mauritius, which, though in form like the Round
Island one, and the marks on the elytra are the same, the
white spots on the abdomen are wanting; a small black beetle
whose name I do not know; and one brown beetle, about 1^ inch
in length, tubercled all over — but I can find neither figure nor
description of it, nor do I think it is in Mauritius.

I have no doubt but for the untoward weather I should have
added considerably to my specimens. What I did procure and
have noted may be of assistance to future explorers in the lesser
Mascarene Islands, about which, in the scientific world, a good
deal of interest appears to be felt.

Extracts from Sir H. Barkb/s Report on Round Island,
delivered before the Members of the Royal Society of Arts and
Sciences, Dec. 15. 1869 : —

' The number of plants collected by us at Round Island, exclu-
sive of two sea- weeds, Sargazzum vulgare (?), and Gonospora
fastigiata (?), common, I believe, to the coast of Mauritius, was
twenty-nine, comprising specimens of the following natural
orders : — •

Ch. XII.]

LIST OF PLANTS.

165

Musci

1

ACKOGENS.

Lycopodiaceae .
V Filices

1
1

Graminacese

5

Endogens. ^

Cyperacese
Pandanaceae

1
2

Palmaceae

3

Liliaceae .

1

— 12

'Ebenaceae

3

Asclepiadaceag .
Convolvulaceae .

2
1

EXOGENS.

Myrsinaceae

Asteraceae

Combretaceae

1
2
1

Myrtaceae
Cinchonaceae

1

2

^Homaliaceae

1
— 14

29

' The first point in the above list which attracts attention is
the very large proportion borne by Endogens, or internally
growing, to Exogens, or externally growing plants. Humboldt
quotes approvingly the estimate of Eobert Brown, that in the
tropics Monocotyledons, which represent the former, are in the
ratio of one to five to Dicotyledons — synonymous with the
latter — whilst we see above that they are at Eound Island as
twelve to fourteen, or more than four times more numerous.
Again, in a recently published Flora of the Sandwich Islands,
out of the 554 flowering plants, 75 belong to the Monocoty-
ledons, and 479 to Dicotyledons, showing the former to be less
than a seventh of the whole ! This feature becomes the more
pronainent when we find, on further examination, that whilst
the Endogens differ so much that few, if any of them, can have
been recently derived from Mauritius, several of the Exogens
are identical with those of this island ; some, too, in all proba-
bility, having been introduced into both from foreign countries.

' With a view to a closer appreciation of genera and species
than I could otherwise have ventured on, Mr. Home has been
good enough to compare the whole of our specimens with those
in the Colonial Herbarium, which was removed about a year
ago from the Eoyal College to a building in the Botanic

1 56 FLORA [Ch. XII.

(jrardens at Pamplemousses. I annex Mr. Home's observations
upon each, with which mine will be found in most cases, in the
following portions of this paper, to accord.

' To begin with the three orders of Cryptogams, each repre-
sented by a single individual, I can say little as to the moss
even by way of comparison, the family being omitted altogether
in the " Hortus Mauritianus," and no classification, so far as I
am aware, of the Mascarene species having ever been made. I
presume it to be a Sphagnum,^ apparently differing but little
from some which may be seen on trees in this island.

' The Lycopod belongs to the section Selaginella, and is pro-
l^ably new. I took it at the time for a dwarfed form of the
common Mauritian P. 8. concinna, but gave up the idea on
looking over my specimens, with none of which it could be
identified. It may, however, perhaps, be Bojer's >S'. innioides,
with which I am unacquainted, no specimen having been left
by him.

' The fern is Adiantum caudatum, a wide-spread fern, found
in Mauritius and most other islands of the Mascarene group. I
may, however, remark in passing, that its habit at Eound
Island is so much changed, especially in the young stage, that
I could scarcely at first recognise it.

' Turning next to the flowering plants, and commencing with
the Monocotyledons, or those having one-lobed seeds, we have
five grasses composing the scanty herbage of the islet. Strange
to say, that which is most common, growing on tufts amongst
the trees at the summit, appears identical with the Indian
Citronelle, or Lemon-grass, Andropogon or Cymhopogon
Schoenanthus ofBojer; who, however, distinctly states it not to
be a native of Mauritius, nor can it even to this day be said
to be naturalised here. Unluckily, the specimens brought away
liave been lost. The next grass, No. 5, of Mr. Home, is not
to be found in the Royal College Herbarium, and is supposed by
him to be new.

' The third, numbered 7, is the Cynodon, mentioned by
Colonel Pike ; and we all, judging from its mode of growth,
referred it to that genus ; but it will be seen to differ totally
from the Chien-Dent, or Petit Chien-Dent, so common here.

' I believe it is the Hypnus acicidaris, Linn.

Ch. XII.] OF ROUND ISLAND. 167

Of Mr. Home's number 8 only a single imperfect specimen was
obtained, which has been sent to Dr. Hooker, at Kew, unidenti-
fied with any in the Herbarium.

' The single Sedge, on the other hand, appears to be Cyperus
maHtimus, common to Mauritius.

' Proceeding next to plants of more perfect structm'e, having
two-lobed seeds, we find that Eound Island possesses three
Ebonies resembling severally the Mauritian species Biospyros
pterocalyx, melanida, and chrysophyllus. Their growth, how-
ever, like that of all the hard-wood trees, is stunted, and their
branches gnarled and twisted. This is due probably to the
wind, for there seems a sufficient depth of vegetable mould to
enable them to grow more luxuriantly.

' Two trailing Asclepiads, with inconspicuous flowers, festoon
the rocky surface of the islet in many places. One Mr. Home
identifies with the Sylophora (Asdepias asthmatica) of the
Eoyal College Herbarium, which, however, is given by Bojer as
a " Ceylon species cultivated in gardens principally by the
Indians ;" no doubt as a drug, since Dr. Roxburgh declares it to
be one of the most valuable medicines in India. The second
was originally regarded by Mr. Home as a Periploca, possibly
Mauritian, the " Speca du Pays ;" but he has since considered it
to belong to another foreign section of the family, the Strepto-
caulon, on the authority of the late Dr. Meller, who thus
classed a plant growing at Curepipe which it strongly resembles,
though of a much stouter habit in every respect, as will be seen
by comparison.

' Possibly, as the genus has downy seeds, both these Asclepiads
have been conveyed to Eound Island by the wind. Such
may have been the case with the " Groatsfoot Convolvulus,'*
Ipomcea maritima, common to most parts of the world.

' The Myrsinaceae or Ardisiacese are represented at Eound
Island by a small tree, according to Mr. Home, near the Badula
ovalifolia, a Mauritian species, of which there is, however, no
specimen in the Eoyal College Herbarium.

' Of the Asteraceae, or composite-flowered plants, are found
two, both evidently introduced. First, a species of Sonchus or
European sow-thistle ; not, however, the ' Laiteron,' so common
liere and all over the world, but a smaller and more prickly
sort, which grows on Flat Island. Secondly, in large quan-

i68 FLORA [Ch. XII.

titles, though mostly dead from the drought, an Ageratum, an
American genus not mentioned in the " Hortus Mauritianus," but
which has of late years run wild in the cane-fields and near old
clearings in the forest, having probably spread from the
Botanical Grardens, where Mr. Duncan gives, among the flowers
cultivated, A. conyzoides, which I find from gardening-books
has the light grey flowers of the one so common here.

' In the next order, Combretacese, there is a Terminalia ; no
doubt the one Colonel Lloyd meant when speaking of " Bois
Benzoin," the name given to the species indigenous to Mau-
ritius, from the wood being used for incense ; but from which,
as well as from all other Mascarene species found by us at
Eound Island, it widely differs, as will be seen by the specimens
being more nearly allied, according to Mr. Home, to the Indian
Terminalias, though probably new and undescribed.

'The only three trees seen — although the trunk of the largest
was not above four feet in height and eighteen inches in
diameter — had great lateral expansion, their branches extending
horizontally between five and twenty to thirty feet.

' Among plants allied to the Myrtle we found only a Sossinia,
forming a small shrubby tree varying from six to ten feet in
height, the leaves of which do not agree with those of any of
the genera in the Royal College Herbarium, and which is prob-
ably therefore also new.

' Of the Chinchona family there were two : the first and com-
monest we at once pronounced to be the Ternelia buxifolia of
this island, which it much resembles. The second, a Pyrostria,
said by Mr. Home to be nearer to P. polymoi^hia than to
anything else in the Royal College Herbarium. The only other
dicotyledonous plant observed by us was a small tree about
twelve feet in height, somewhat resembling the Mauritian
genus Blackwellia, belonging to the Homalineae, but which
Mr. Home cannot trace to any known species.

' We saw no signs of the "Veloutiers " mentioned, I think, both
by Colonel Lloyd and by Colonel Pike, though there seems a
strong presumption in favour of their having existed, seeing
that, according to Bojer, one of the commonest kinds here,
Sccevola Plumierii, is known as " Veloutier de I'lsle Platte."

' Having thus completed a description of the scanty Flora
of Round Island, I must at once guard against a most incorrect
idea as to the general character of its vegetation, which might

Ch. XII.] OF ROUND ISLAND. 169

be drawn from the bare enumeration of genera and species, by
pointing out that if the number of individuals be taken into
account, the Exogens are totally overwhelmed by the Endo-
genous plants.

' Taken as a whole, its Flora is no doubt essentially Mascarene,
nay, even Mauritian, as far as genera are concerned ; but the
species, both in Endogens and Exogens, are frequently peculiar ;
and, as may be gathered from Mr. Home's remarks, even when
in all probability identical, varying more or less from the
typical Mauritian standard.'

Since this chapter was completed, a letter has l)een received,
by the Secretary of the Eoyal Society of Arts and Sciences,
from Sir H. Barkly ; and, as it has been already made public,
I quote some passages from it relating especially to Eound
Island.

He says, ' The Palmiste gargoulette, Dr. Hooker has at last
satisfied himself, is the Hyophorhe aTnaricaulis of Van Martins
and others, the habitat of which has never been previously
clearly ascertained.

' With respect to the Fauna, Dr. Grunther refers all the
snakes to one species (the difference in size and colour being-
due to age or sex), as it was furnished forty or fifty years ago
from a head in the Paris Museum, but of which no other or
perfect specimen was known, Leptolon Dussumierii. Dr.
Giinther will soon contribute a complete description of it to the
Zoological Society, and it will be figured in the " Proceedings."
The lizards are reduced to two, many of the specimens being
different ages and sexes of Scincus Telfairii^ which was first
described from Madagascar under the name of Leopopis Ballia.
The small lizards, both in spirits, and preserved by Colonel
Pike, are the Gongylus Bojerii, previously sent home by
Mr. Newton. Though the number of Eound Island reptiles is
thus more limited than I at first supposed, yet two curious
features still remain. It has a genus of snakes of which no
other species is known, and whose nearest congener. Dr.
Giinther considers, is only found in the Loyalty Islands in the
South Seas ; and its ordinary lizard is peculiar to its own shores
and to distant Madagascar, and does not exist either in Mau-
ritius or Bourbon, close by.

' Pray tell Colonel Pike I purpose writing to him, directly I
get out to the Cape, about the insects, most of which are new.'

N

CHAPTER XIII.

A CHINESE FESTIVAL.

Preparations — Joss — Description of Temple — Ceremonies — Gambling —

Opera — Pantomime.

At the Salines, not far from the artillery barracks, the Chinese
have purchased about an acre of ground, and erected in the
middle of it a good-sized building of stone, with numerous small
dependencies round it. These are all dedicated to Joss, and
once a year there is a general gathering of all the Celestials in
the city. Lesser ones take place frequently, but these are prin-
cipally for gambling.

For some weeks before this festival active preparations go
on amongst the small-eyed but sharp-sighted Chinamen, on a
grand scale, for a good time.

Pigs and poultry are in great requisition, and the night
before all the cooks are in their glory ; and a queer sight it is
to watch them, with their skinny, dirty, yellow forms, hovering
over the seething pots. Pigs, when not too large, are frequently
roasted whole, and ducks and fowls are in abundance ; so that
the savour of the viands is very appetising, or would be, but
for a subtle odour of opium diffused over the whole place.
Rice is cooked in every conceivable form, and curious suspicious-
looking vegetables are in piles ; fruits, and everything that can
tempt a Chinese palate.

John Chinaman is generally the most economical of men,
frugal to a proverb ; but on the occasion of this gala day he
spares no expense. Every carriage and carriole to be had is
engaged for transport to the festive scene. Very jaunty, too, the
young Celestials look in the scrupulously clean and generally
new costume for the day, one very noticeable feature of which
is the whitest of stockings and brightest of varnished leather
shoes.

Ch. XIII.J CHINESE JOSS. 171

The road to the Salines swarms with merry groups, all wending
their way to the Joss-house, which has been thoroughly cleaned.
Joss himself is regilt ; inside and out all is furbished up, and
scores of little tables are placed outside, which are loaded with
provisions. Grongs and cymbals make a deafening din, and
jollity reigns supreme, for the demon of gambling has not yet
made its appearance.

The room that Joss occupies is hung round with banners
bearing all sorts of Chinese characters, and long scrolls of paper
each with some wise saying written on it. Joss is a large
wooden figure about ten feet high, sitting cross-hogged on an
elevated platform, surrounded by little silk or satin flags with
curious devices on them. The whole place is decorated with
bouquets, and on a table before the Joss are large vases filled
with artificial flowers.

Candles highly ornamented are sold to the devout ; and at the
time I was present they were being offered to him with dishes
of meat and rice, till he was the centre of an illumination.
Instead of these being offerings to a god, as I at first supposed,
I found that Joss represents the devil !

The Chinese say Grod is always good and kind, and watchful
for man's benefit, therefore does not need propitiation. It is
the devil who is always seeking to do harm, to whom all
these presents were made in order to please him, and make him
their friend.

Early on the day of the feast a procession is formed, banners
are borne aloft, gongs and cymbals clanged on all sides ; and
each Chinaman, bearing a bowl of rice, passes with slow and
steady step before Joss, invoking his friendship. After this is
over the feasting takes place ; and then comes the serious busi-
ness of the day, the real attraction to the greater part of those
assembled — viz. the gambling and opium-smoking.

Opening out of the Joss-room is a small apartment with
several bunks in it, and seats, always filled with stupefied
wretches almost insensible from the quantities of opium inhaled
from the long-stemmed pipes lying at their sid^s. The room
is filled with dense smoke from the noxious drug.

The front, or principal room, is a very large one ; paintings
decorate its walls, and a number of very handsome Chinese lan-
terns are suspended from the ceiling. Long rows of small

172 Ctin\ESE GAMBLERS. [Ch. XI 11.

tables are on each side — a crowd round every one of them. At
the foot of every table sits a pale, hollow-eyed, cadaverous-
looking individual, with a countenance so perfectly expression-
less, he might be a statue, but for the few words that drop
from his lips of stone, and proclaim his profession — gambler.

In front of him lies a quantity of copper cash, or round coins
with holes in them, a tea- cup, and two small pieces of wood
like Joss-sticks.

In the middle of the table is a board ; on it are marked
squares with Chinese characters, and at the sides of the board
are slips of paper, with corresponding numbers upon them.
The person who wishes to bet takes one of the numbered slips
of paper, and places it on the same figure on the board. For
instance, if he puts one dollar on number six, he can double it
by covering it with a corresponding number. The board is
filled with the slips of paper, and when all is ready the keeper
of the bank removes from the pile of cash as many as he can
cover with the tea-cup. They are shuffled about under the
cup for a minute ; it is then raised, and the cash carefully re-
moved one by one with the thin sticks and counted. Should
it come out an even number, all who have betted on even
numbers win and the rest lose.

The room is generally filled to overflowing. I have seen from
six to eight hundred gambling at one time in it. Silence pro-
found reigns from one end of the place to the other, all intently
watching the game.

I have carefully studied their countenances, but could not
judge from them who won or lost. The same stolid look on
every face, not a muscle moved. Sometimes after losing his
ready cash, a Chinaman will stake his whole stock and trade —
and lose. I remember an instance of this reckless gambling
mania. A shop close to my house was owned by a very respect-
able Chinaman, a quiet fellow, who had his place well stocked
with groceries, wines, &c., and owned one assistant, a boy of
about twenty, as quiet and steady as his master.

For a few days his shop was shut, much to the inconvenience
of his neighbours ; and on enquiry, I found it was the annual
festival, and both master and man had attended it. At length
Mr. Lung-Fo re-opened, but, to every one's astonishment, he
was busy sweeping out his shop, and weighing out charcoal and

Ch. XIII.] DRAMATIC OPERA. 173

lard to the customers, while the youngster sat leisurely smoking
and making up the day-books. It appeared they had been
gambling from the time they left home. Lung-Fo had lost to his
servant all his money, his whole stock and house ; and then having
nothing more, he wagered himself, and if he lost he was to be
servant to the other — and he did lose. But there was no appear-
ance of triumph on the boy's face ; master and servant reversed
their places with the most perfect sangfroid.

This is no uncommon case ; but though numbers are con-
stantly reduced to beggary, as soon as they are in that condition
they set steadily to work again, and will earn before the next
festival the wherewithal to induce Fortune to turn her wheel
once more in their favour.

Adjoining the gambling-room is another, set apart for thea-
trical performances. One or more are sure to take place at this
season, though generally it is only a continuation of one piece
during several days.

I was fortunate enough to be present at a first-class opera,
and all the Celestial talent in the country was in request. It was
written by Mr. Ahong, a doctor and opium-dealer in the country ;
and the music was composed by Mr. Ching-tang, a dealer in
snook and cocoa-nut oil in Port Louis.

The opera was of the dramatic order, the scene laid in
Pekin, and the following were the drmaatis personce : —

Mr. Chow Chow, a student, son of a mandarin.

Pluchow, servant to the above.

Mr. Ahow, a rich mandarin, guardian of Miss Chin Sing.

Mr. Oulong, secretary to Ahow.

Miss Chin Sing, niece to Ahow.

Mr. Chow Chow, a young gentleman already deeply learned
in all the lore of Confucius, occasionally pays a visit to Mr.
Ahow, his father's friend, and there he meets the moon-faced
Miss Chin Sing ; and as philosophy has not closed either eyes or
heart, he falls over head and ears in love at first sight (a thing
not quite unknown among the barbarians of the West). He
discovers from the elegant little feet, covered with the tiniest
of jewelled slippers, that twinkle in and out from under her
rich garments, that she is of rank, and that it is useless for him
to asBire to her hand. She is jealously watched by Ahow; but

174 THE OPERA. [Ch. XIII.

when did an old guardian stop a young lover from finding
means to impart his passion.

Pluchow, his faithful servant, manages to convey any number
of letters to her, to all of which she replied in the elegant
bouquets that silently express so much to the Chinese heart.
She also contrives to let him know that her uncle has promised
her hand to Oulong, in return for sundry services by which he
has been able to enrich himself at the barbarian's expense. Poor
Chow Chow is in such despair at this intelligence, that he
threatens to commit suicide if his lady-love will not consent to
elope with him.

She intimates she is willing. But just as all is arranged, the
plot is discovered, Pluchow bastinadoed, and Miss Chin Sing-
locked up in the topmost room of the house. But love laughs
at locksmiths ; and as her place of confinement overlooks a large
garden, shaded with immense trees, Chow Chow contrives to
converse with her from the top of a golden apple-tree, and
flings her a silken cord, with which she manages to descend into
his arms.

As soon as Ahow discovers his loss, he kills himself from
shame at the disgrace ; Oulong follows suit, and the lovers are
happy ever after.

The orchestra consisted of two gongs, two triangles, two
Chinese fiddles, four cymbals, two guitars, and two kettle-drums.
The opera commences with an overture, which resembled a
grand crockery crash — which made me start, but greatly
pleased the audience.

After two or three of these crockery-smashing crashes, a faint
tinkling sound of a fiddle and triangle was heard, and scene
first commenced.

Miss Chin Sing waddles across the stage, and prepares to
arrange her toilet. Paints, powder, pomades, and twenty-four
brushes are brought in by her maids, and her hair was soon
arranged a la theiere^ and a dozen little gilt sticks, and a bunch
of flowers, were stuck all over it. She looked quite gay and
festive, and all the time the operation was going on she was
singing a love-song in a delicate falsetto.

Cilxiii.] scenes. 175

Scene No, 2.

Miss Chin Sing and Pluchow.

The latter unrolls a letter a yard in length from his master,
which she covers with kisses.

The duet in this scene was most ridiculous — both voices in
a weak falsetto, with singular gesticulations ; and whenever they
stopped, a crash fit to make a nervous man's hair stand on end
would ensue, a little fiddling, and a blow or two on the kettle-
drums, as a sort of variation, evidently to the great delight ot
the Celestials present, who sat as still as so many children, with
upturned eyes fixed on the scene.

Scene No, 3.

Mr. Ahow enters, in the full dress of a wealthy mandarin, his
pigtail hanging to his feet, adorned with gold thread and lace.
The old fellow struts across the stage, giving orders to his
numerous servants, who bow humbly before him. Miss Chin
Sing is sent for, and severely reprimanded, and sent weeping
,;away. Chow Chow enters singing ; but Ahow, puffing himself
up into even greater dignity than before, a low earnest duet
follows, and then both leave the stage, holding paper handker-
chiefs to their faces to dry up their tears.

Scene No. 4.

Garden at night. Miss Chin Sing at an open window. Chow
Chow perched on the top of a tree. He throws her a cord, and
she throws herself into his arms, and he carries her off, ^ it
being impossible such tiny feet could walk. An interval of ten
minutes was allowed ; and all withdrew to take a whiff of opium
or tobacco and a cup of tea, which was served in a side room,
in the smallest of cups.

Scene No. 5.

Old Ahow and Oulong appear with the police and servants.
The direst confusion ensues : everyone rushes about, and every-
body sings something on his own hook, quite regardless of his
neighbour's tune. Grongs clashed, drums beat, and the spectators

176 A DRAMA. [Ch. XIII.

clapped their hands in ecstasy. Ahow stalks about, supplies
swords to all, and rushes off, vowing vengeance to the missing
couple.

Scene No. 6.

Mr. and Mrs. Chow Chow are discovered in an aroour,
drinking tea, and hilling and cooing like two turtle-doves. A
pretty little duet is sung, accompanied by a sort of mandoline '
and a fiddle. The most plaintive of ditties in the faintest of
voices, but all falsetto. While the happy couple are so bliss-
fully engaged, Ahow and Oulong appear, and after a shower of
reproaches, and just when they seem about to immolate the
lovers, they change their minds. Ahow rushes on Oulong's
sword and dies, and Oulong jumps out of a window and drowns
himself. This does not at all distract the others ; they merely
walk off, looking very happy. The play is continued through
the whole of their married life, but I did not go to see the
other acts.

In the rear of the Joss-house a large stage was erected,
intended for a pantomime performance at night. It was
dimly lighted by pieces of cloth dipped in flat dishes of cocoa-
nut oil, and set fire to — a very primitive sort of torch. There is*
a low covered house at the back of the stage, to conceal the
actors. The stage is lined up each side by rows of Chinamen,
and crowds stand round it.

A curious beast issues from the covered den, said to be the
pet lion of Joss. I doubt if Cuvier ever even dreamt of such
a specimen of the Felis Leo.

It dashes round the stage, its monster eyes glaring and
mouth wide open, to the terror of the youngsters. It is about
twelve feet long, by five or six feet high. It is covered with
cloth to imitate skin ; one man under the shoulders to work the
head, and one under the tail ; the undulations of the body being
most eccentric. I pity the poor fellow who personated the
tail, the peculiar jerk of which was inimitable, as he had to
scamper after the mad leapings of the head. Head seats him-
self on a table, and eats grass ; but by when tail has gathered up
the long body and hopes for a rest, off rushes head to the

' These instruments are not at all like their European namesakes, but have
some pretty soft notes when not accompanied by the gongs, &c.

Ch. XIII.] THE CHINESE. 1/7

farther end of the stage, poor tail tumbling off the table as he
best can. Head sits down and eats fire, grins and bows ; tail
waggles all the time, keeping the spectators in a roar. The
same thing is repeated over and over for hours, and still a sea
of upturned faces surrounds the stage.

The Celestial Empire may boast of being the oldest under the
sun, its wise men excelling in literature, its mechanics in skill ;
but, save in the art of making money, all the Celestials I have
seen are yet in the lowest depths of ignorance and superstition,
though as easily amused as children, and perhaps more harm-
less than the denizens of the West under a similar condition ;
at least, they are so here, where of course they are amenable
to British law

CHAPTER XIV.

AN EXCURSION UP THE POUCE MOUNTAIN.

Early Morning — Begin our Ascent — Cardinal's Nest— Old Forts — Tunnel under the
Po^^ce — The Shoulder — The Summit — Ferns — View— Entomology of the Moun-
tain— Descent — Echo— Notes on different Ascents of the Peter Both Mountain.

On a fresh clear morning in June, I set off for a trip up to the
top of the Pouce. I left my residence at daybreak with my
Indian Bopchia, to carry my vasculum and the wherewithal to
replenish the inner man. Passing through the still darkened
though far from silent streets of Port Louis, where milkmen
were shrieking ' du lait ' at every corner, and produce-carts
arriving from the country, I hurried on, hoping to be able to
reach the shoulder of the mountain before the sun was high
enough to render climbing unpleasantly hot work. I was soon
joined by three friends — a Scotch engineer, a barrister-at-law,
and a member of the press, all eager and ready for the
ascent.

After traversing a filthy noisy Malabar camp above the
Champ de Lort, our route lay through a large Mango grove, and
down a ravine, where we crossed a limpid brook murmuring over
the rocks, and began our ascent through a wilderness of the red
and yellow-flowered Mimosas that filled the air with delicious
fragrance, doubly grateful to our senses after the odours of the
camp we had left. There had been copious showers in the night,
which had thoroughly wetted the long rank grass, and our
■ extremities were soon particularly ' moist and unpleasant.'

A small bird here flew across our path, and attracted my
attention by its plantive cries. It was a female Cardinal,
Fouclia Madagascarensis, which we disturbed from two pretty
pale-blue eggs in a nest made of fine soft grass, neatly fastened
to a branch by threads of cotton, which she had secured in her
search for material for the home of her little ones ; and the

Ch. XIV.] AN ASCENT. 179

feathered ends were extended and crossed over the entrance,
forming a shady archway to protect it from the rain.

We soon entered the old military road constructed by the
French, but now so overgrown with long grass and shrubs as to
be very troublesome to the pedestrian excursionist. By Elliot's
barometer we were now 800 feet above the level of the sea. The
view from this point is unobstructed by trees, and the whole
city lay like a map before us. Passing through a dense growth
of underwood and over loose rocks, we soon gained a height of
1,200 feet. Here on our right rose the bold side of the
mountain, almost perpendicularly for 1,100 feet, the little
scattered spots of verdure on it sparkling in the morning sun.
Ferns now began to appear : the Nephrolepis acuta waved its
graceful fronds on every side of us ; the Polypodium phymatodes
was abundant amongst the rocks, and the breeze was perfumed
with the wild jessamine, which ranks over all the tall
shrubs.

About 150 feet from the base of this mountain cliff, an ex-
cavation was made in its side of about 20 feet deep by 50
wide, with the view of making a tunnel for conveying water
from the Moka river into Port Louis. A survey was made, in
1852, by the Surveyor-general and civil engineer, and it was
expected that the undertaking would conduce greatly to the
general welfare of the city and its neighbourhood.

It would also have served as a means of transit through the
country, and have given the farmers an opportunity of conveying
their produce to market, it being not only intended for a water
way, but for foot and carriage passengers, to shorten the distance
between Moka and the city.

The strata through which the tunnel was to pass is basaltic
rock, easily worked. It was supposed a large quantity of
valuable stone would have been extracted, suitable for public
works, and when sold would have contributed towards defraying
the expenses of the undertaking.

It was calculated the tunnel would be 816 yards long, and
that 49,264 cubic feet of stone would be quarried out of it, and
easily sent down by tramway to the Champ de Lort, for sale for
building purposes. It was recommended that this should be done
by the worst class of condemned prisoners out of Port Louis
jail, as a proper mode of punishment for such criminals. The

I So MOSSES. [Ch. XIV.

estimated expense of the whole was about 60,000 dollars. Like
many another scheme in Mauritius it came to nought, and the
hole in the rock is all that remains to tell the tale.

On reaching the shoulder we came to a large open space,
formerly cultivated, but devoid of trees and shrubs except here
and there a few clumps of aloes. A purling brook, clear as
crystal, from which we refreshed ourselves, runs down the side
of a footpath, leading round the west of the shoulder. Its
banks are thickly set with the pretty Odontosoria tenuifolia
and several species of Nephrodiums, whilst the most luxuriant
mosses abound, and the ground is strewn with dead Pupa
shells.

Amongst the mosses I gathered here and higher up are speci-
mens of the Polytrichura commune, many of the stalks from
seven to eight inches long ; but I only found a single flower, as
I was nearly two months too early for its flowering season. The
Hypnum. brevirostrum. and aciculare were most abundant, and
constantly with them is a very pretty species of Jungermannia.
The curious Macronitum^ subtortum, that looks as if it was
threaded on long strings, with its bright orange-pointed fairy
caps for flowers, grows sparsely here, but I have seen it in large
tufts at Curepipe. The Metzgeria furcata and three species of
Dicranum were also amongst my treasures.

Our route was soon impeded by a deep gorge of recent for-
mation. We were told it was formed in 1865 by a large water-
spout bm'sting over this spot, carrying away immense quantities
of earth and stones, and sweeping everything before it. Long
will it be ere the recollection dies away of that terrible night,
when the torrents descended from the mountain, swelling every
stream into a roaring river in Port Louis and its vicinity ; and,
without a moment's warning, inundating all the lower parts
of the city and causing terrible destruction of life and pro-
perty.

We crossed the gorge with difficulty, as a strong stream
gushed out of the cliff, at least twenty feet above the surface of
the earth, from some subterranean source. Farther up, facing
the north, and commanding the road lately ascended as well as
the valleys below, was the site of an old French fort ; and still
higher up the cliff" is another. We passed round the brow of the
shoulder, and here a magnificent view burst on our sight, as we

Ch. XIV.] THE SUMMIT. i8i

stood on the brink of a precipice 2,000 feet high, overlooking the
highly cultivated districts of Flacq, Moka, and Plaines Wil-
helms, as well as the different mountain ranges traversing the
island.

It is very evident that the whole of this plateau was once a
lake of liquid fire, and I do not doubt that the interior of it
was the crater of one of the extinct volcanoes that form Mau-
ritius.

We now took a footpath through a wood of stunted trees, on
our way to the summit. At this altitude we found a different
vegetation altogether ; in fact, the zones are tolerably well
marked up the mountain. Grrasses and ferns here changed their
character, and a great variety of Orchidese were found. I gathered
here many species of lichens and mosses,^ some quite new to me.
I procured some fine pinnae of the fronds of the Cyatheas, both
excelsa and canaliculata : unfortunately it is impossible to
secure an entire frond, both on account of fragility and size.
Aspleniums, longissimanwin, ajffine, and lineatum, were in the
greatest abundance ; Aspidium capense, Coenopteris vivipara,
and others : in all seventeen species I added to my Herbarium.^

As we approached the summit it had the appearance of being-
covered with a white flowering shrub, but on nearing it we found
it to be the Velouta {Towrnefortia argentea), the white velvety
leaves of which glittered in the sun. Here, for the first time,
I found a modest little red Erica {Andromeda lilicifolia),
with one exception the only known species of heath in the
island.

The path to the summit is narrow and steep, a mere scramble
up rocks ; and when there we found only a little plateau about
ten feet square. The whole island lay around us ; and it was a
glorious sight to look down on it from that giddy pinnacle, so
calm and lovely in the far distance, and not a sound saving our
own voices to break the silence.

• On the trees of this thicket, or forest, as Mauritians would call it, I collected
the following funguses and lichens: — Sddzophyllum commune; five species of
Cladonia ; two Stictinas, tonientosa and retigera ; two Rorellas ; Ucasolia herlacea
(Huds.); four Stictas, damcBcarnis, macropkylla and dichotoma, the fourth not
named ; Usnea harbata ; Physcla leuconiela ; and a species of Biatira.

^ For the names of the mosses and lichens I am indebted to the kindness of
J. Tyerman Esq., Curator of the Botanical Grardens, Liverpool, to whom I sent
specimens of the varied Botany of Mauritius.

i82 PETER BOTH MOUNTAIN. [Ch. XIV.

All heaven and earth were still, but not in sleep,

But breathless, as we grow when feeling most ;

And silent as we stand in thought too deep for words.

The city lay at our feet in a northerly direction ; the plains
of Pamplemousses, and Eiviere du Eempart, to the NE., were
green with waving canes ; and the large plantations, many of
them over 1,800 acres, looked only as so many cultivated gar-
dens. The Moka and Black Eiver districts to the W. presented
a similar scene.

In close proximity to the summit of the Pouce is Peter Both
Mountain, which only exceeds it in height by about twenty-
five feet. The various spurs of the Calebasse chain could be
distinctly recognised, as well as all the principal peaks. The
Latanier and other rivers in their serpentine course meandering
slowly to the sea appeared as silver lines intersecting the coun-
try. The tracks of the railways were just visible, and as a traiu
passed, no sound reached us ; but as the iron horses rushed
puffing along, they seemed like children's toys rather than
monster engines.

My aneroid barometer indicated 2,725 feet above sea level.

I gathered a good many land shells, many of them alive, and
captured several curious insects. One, a Mantis, about half as
large as the ordinary ones, of a dark brown colour, striated on
the body with beautiful scarlet diagonal lines ; the eyes of an
intense prussian blue, abdomen greyish white, and wings pale-
yellow, with numberless spots studded on the tips. I caught an
Argynnis for the first time, its dull orange wings thickly strewn
with black, and disturbed several moths in the long grass.
These little creatures are as cunning as possible ; the instant
the net goes over them they slip down the grass stems, aud run
along with such celerity that it is a difficult matter to catch
them.

We were heartily glad of a good rest, and we loyally drank
the healths of Her Majesty the Queen, and the President of the
United States. One of our party made a most flowery speech
in praise of these eminent personages and their respective coun-
tries, but I fear that, under the circumstances, it was not highly
appreciated by his small audience.

The air was cool and bracing, with a considerable difference
in the temperature at the summit from the base of the moun-

Ch. XIV.] A FINE VIEW. 183

tain. It seems to be my fate to encounter storms on mountain
sides. Before we were half rested, a large black cloud, and the
deep roll of thunder which echoed from peak to peak, warned
us of an approaching storm, and we reluctantly began our
descent.

This was one of my first mountain experiences in Mauritius,
and I was vexed to have to quit such a grand view so quickly.
It was a new view of the city to me with all its surroundings :
the harbour and its forest of masts, the wreaths of foam marking
the coral reefs ; the forts ; and the broad expanse of the Indian
Ocean, all glittering in the brilliant tropical sunshine — for
there was no storm down below. We began our descent about
eleven o'clock, and it required more care than we had any idea
of. We hurried down to the shelter of the stunted trees, but
not before we had all got well drenched did we reach it. Soon,
however, it passed away, and a rainbow was the result of the
sun breaking from the passing clouds. As the glorious arch
spanned the heavens, it awakened in my soul thoughts of con-
fidence, and trust and love, as I gazed on its brilliant hues —
symbols of a brighter reality of Hope and Heaven.

Every step disclosed some new object of admiration — a moss,
a lichen, a fern, an orchid ; even a monkey or two appeared in
the distance, but disappeared with an angry chatter at our dis-
turbance, and gave us no chance of a nearer inspection. Very
few birds were observed, and I concluded it was too cold for
them. We heard the shrill whistle of the Boatswain, or Paille-
en-queue birds (Phceton candidus), as they gracefully sailed
over head. They build their nests in the hollows of the cliff,
on the south side of the mountain. The place they had se-
lected for their nests was inaccessible to all but a samphire or
eider-down hunter, though our presence so alarmed them that
they did not cease their cries till we reached the open space ol
the shoulder. Here we selected a grassy spot within a few feet
of the precipice forming the south of the mountv^in.

From this place we could look directly down into a number
of large sugar houses on the plains below, which had been un-
roofed in the March hurricane, and to us they looked like
houses in miniature. The rain had ceased, all the clouds dis-
persed, and the atmosphere was delightfully cool and clear, and
we heartily enjoyed our breakfast. Fortunately my friends had

i84 ENTOMOLOGY, [Ch. XiV.

also a supply of provisions ; for of my boy, that I had sent
on ahead of us, we had never even caught a glimpse.

This part of the mountain, especially round the spur, is an
interesting one, and affords a fine field for investigation to
botanists.

At one o'clock the sun shone out in all its splendour, casting
his fiery rays upon us ; so we hastened our descent, and about
1,000 feet lower we halted for a rest.

Near this spot is a fine Mapou tree, on the trunk of which is
cut in large letters the word ' Echo.' On hallooing we found
the echo to be complete, caused by the sound reverberating
from the high cliff before us.

A little lower down we found Bopchia stretched out in the
grass, fast asleep. He had lost us on the ascent, and being-
tired of looking for us, leisurely resigned himself to a com-
fortable nap, awaiting our return, in oblivion of the fact that
he had the greater part of our wine with him in my vasculum,
and that I had to stuff my pockets with ferns, shells, mosses,
&c. We arrived in the city about half-past two, all of us very
sufficiently wearied, but so well pleased with our trip as to be
willing to renew it on a future day.

To see the Pouce under the aspect above described, it must
be in fine weather after some weeks' succession of heavy rains.
[ have ascended it several times since, but with very varied
luck. The last time it was dreary in the extreme, from a long-
drought : scarcely a fern was to be seen, except on the rise above
the shoulder, and there I missed many of my former friends. My
object then was to hunt for land shells, so, instead of descend-
ing by the ordinary path, I struck into the ravine, and keeping-
down near the water-course, I was tolerably successful. "With
a good deal of trouble I found many specimens of the Pupas,
dongata^ llauritiana, and sulcata, and one of the small but
rare davulata, two varieties of Hydroroena, the variegata and
rubra : the Parmacella Mauritiana, and dozens of the com-
mon Bulinus, Achatinas, and different species of Helix.

A great many were alive, and nearly all the Pupas. The P.
Mauritiana is bright red when living, but changes to green
when dead.

1 also procured some fine specimens of the Atrophyum
Boryanum fern, that I had hitherto found principally at

Ch. XIV.] THE PETER BOTH MOUNTAIN. 185

Curepipe. The Polytrichum commune was in full seed for
the first time I have been able to get it in that condition, with
the single exception previously mentioned. The mosses, in
such beauty near the shoulder on my first visit, were now all
dried up, the water-course was a bare furrow, and only a little
rough coarse grass in the place of the lovely ferns on its
banks.

The Peter Both Mountain.

It would appear that the grand feat to accomplish in Mau-
ritius is to ascend this mountain. I have, nevertheless,
hitherto preferred viewing the island from other peaks, almost
equally difficult to climb — in the case of the Morne quite
so.

Casual visitors seem especially attracted, and fired with the
ambition of leaving their names on the all but inaccessible
pinnacle. The first who led the way was a French mechanic
named Claude Penthe, who conceived the then unheard-of idea
of scaling the formidable rocky walls, and, with only a single
negro, succeeded in placing the French flag on the summit, on
September 8, 1790. Very possibly his description of the dif-
ficulties in the way deterred his countrymen from following his
daring example ; however that may be, I believe no other attempt
is recorded till September 1832. On this date a party of British
naval and military officers, with a large staff of men and acces-
sories, essayed the ascent ; but it was only on the second day that
they were successful, and then, for the first time, the red cross
of St. Greorge flaunted triumphantly from the head.

In the years 1848 and '58, navy and army again united, and,
with some gentlemen of the Island, went up. In the expedition
of 1858 they were three days before they reached the top. In
1864, when some of the officers of the 24th Eegiment and others
arrived at the head, they left, for future climbers, a strong tin
box, containing a visitors' book, and a piece of lead with the
names of former explorers scratched on it. I do not think the
book requires to be a verv bulky one. The hoary peak is not
likely to be intruded upon very frequently. Some of the 86th
Regiment went up in 1869, and I believe there have been two
or three unrecorded ascents, but I do not know of any others save
those I have mentioned. It is more than possible that this

O

1 86

CLIMBERS.

[Ch. XIV.

mountain will one day be quite inaccessible, from the gigantic
basaltic rocks constantly toppling down, worn away by the
elements. That day is doubtless distant, and before it arrives
we shall hear of many an ascent, for the ' Irrepressible Saxon '
delights in overcoming unheard-of difficulties in the way of a
mountain climb.

A BUTTERFLY.

CHAPTER XV.

REDUIT.

Its Vicissitudes — Keason of its first Establishment— Alleged Establishment Its
Interior and Exterior ^Its Change under M. de Brillane — Anecdote of Barto-
lomeo — Difference of its Treatment under Sir E. Farquhar and his Successors —
Mauritius threatened with Monsters — Destruction of the Cause of the Threat —
Sir W. Gomm's Eule — Reduit in the Hands of Sir Henry Barkly and his Lady —
Description of Scenery — Geological Features — Ghosts — Mynas — Ferns and
Fernery — Eavages by Cyclone of 1868.

P'ew places in MaTiritius have undergone the vicissitudes which
Keduit, the present country residence of the representative of
royalty, has experienced.

In the early ages of the French dynasty in the Isle of France,
the raaison de plaisance of the governors was at Montplaisir.

In 1749 M. David, who then held the reins of government,
a gentleman reared in all the gallantry of the Court of Louis
XV., sought a retirement where he might create a second Parc-
aux-Cerfs de Paris, and found a romantic spot near Moka, just
suited to his purpose.

To prevent objections to the large outlay required for the
expenses of the building, he alleged as a reason for it, that he
wished to provide a secure retreat for the ladies of the colony
in case of an attack on the island by the British ; an event con-
sidered very probable at that time. It is to be supposed the
excuse was accepted, as Eeduit was completed, and Montplaisir
deserted.

Though containing every appliance luxury could furnish
to suit the gay revelry within its walls, it was not devoid of
defences, should circumstances require it as a strong-hold.
Outwardly it was a veritable chateau of the feudal age, de-
fended by moat and drawbridge, thus carrying out the soi-
disant reason for its construction.

After M. David's departure, Eeduit was for a time neglected.

i88 REDUIT. [Ch. XV.

with the exception of a permission given by M. Bouvet, in 1755,
to M. Poivre to plant there some nutmeg trees, which he had
procured with great difficulty from Manilla. It was also used for
a time as a college. In 1756, M. Magon, finding its quiet and
retirement refreshing after the oppressive cares of his troubled
administration, spared neither pains nor expense to enrich its
gardens with a great variety of useful and valuable trees and
curious plants. ,

It suffered again an interregnum of desertion after M. Magon
left till 1776, when Le Chevalier Gruerin de Brillane entirely
changed its fate and aspect

Moat and portcullis, all that gave a feudal character to the
building, were swept away.

Again its star shone brilliantly, and its alleys were the resort
of the beauty and gallantry of the day.

In 1789 Eeduit had its share of the disasters caused by the
terrible hurricane that then burst over the Isle of France, and
it was shorn of much of its beauty.

A curious anecdote was related about this time of the cele-
brated traveller, Bartolomeo, who visited the island. He writes,
' Private persons purchase small plots of ground from the King,
live as planters, and construct for themselves habitations, all of
which are called Reduits.'

In 1810, Mr., afterwards Sir E. Farquhar, the first British
Grovernor, took great pleasure in embellishing Eeduit ; but it
experienced fresh vicissitudes at the hands of the Major-
Generals Hall and Darling.

In February 1813 Eeduit was the scene of the wildest terror
and commotion. The peace of Mauritius was threatened !
Vague rumours had spread of serpent monsters rearing their
crested heads, but no one could give any reliable information.
The ' Grem of the Ocean,' hitherto as free from deadly reptiles
as if St. Patrick himself

Had banished them for ever,

Qow to be infested with such vermin ! Impossible ! They must
be hunted out, or Mauritius would be uninhabitable ! The
bravest turned out, armed to the teeth, and with beating hearts
set forth to seek the dread unknown. When found, the enemy
proved a formidable one, nothing less than a Boa Constrictor.

Ch. XV.] REDUIT. 189

comfortably ensconced in the vegetation at the foot of the Cas-
cade. However, he was slain and brought in triumph to Port
Louis by MM. Fleurot and Cazelins. It was 14 feet 8 inches
in length, and 14 inches in circumference. It appears the
reptile had been brought from India in a vessel that was
wrecked some years previously at Grrand Eiver Mouth, and sup-
posed to have been destroyed, but which must have swum
ashore, and made its way to the spot where it was killed.

Reduit was not simply abandoned, but numbers of its finest
trees were allowed to be cut down or mutilated ; and not till
1823 did it again find a protector, when Sir Lowry Cole re-
stored it to the favour it has ever since possessed. He hired
the most experienced gardeners for it, renewed its fountains,
and planted the rarest trees and flowers.

From this time all savans, and men of any note who have
visited Mauritius, have spoken of the cordial reception they
have always met with at Reduit.

In 1846, it was not only in a prosperous state, from the great
care bestowed on it by Sir William Gromm, but it at length
enjoyed, what it had so greatly needed, the graceful presence
and gentle influence of a noble Chatelaine, the Lady Elizabeth
Gromm. It has continued the summer retreat of succeeding
governors from the intense heat of the city, as it possesses a
climate of from six to ten degrees difference in temperature.

In the hands of its present occupants. Sir Henry and Lady
Barkly, it keeps up its reputation, both for the care bestowed
on its grounds and the hospitable welcome that worth and
talent receive when visiting Reduit.

It is situated in the district of Moka, at an elevation of 950
feet above sea level, and at the juncture of the rivers Profonde
and La Cascade, whose waters unite and fall into Grrand River,
which carries them on to the sea.

It stands on a tongue of land, between two ravines, formed
by the above-named rivers.

It commands a wide extent of country : to the right lies a
range of mountains, most of them covered with verdure to
their summits, stretching from Mount Ory to the celebrated
Peter Both ; and on the left rises the magnificent line of the
Corps de Garde Mountains.

The eye wanders with pleasure over the intervening scenery.

I90 GHOSTLY EXPECTATIONS. [Ch. XV.

The forest land ; the numerous well-shaded habitations and
sugar mills ; the tender green of the cane fields ; near the
house, the stately avenues of Filaos and Mangoes ; and the
spacious lawn dotted here and there with fine palms — all form a
landscape of rare beauty. Neither must the wide expanse of
the blue Indian Ocean be forgotten in a description of the view
from the Eeduit. From the. verandah can be distinctly seen
the great currents of lava from the original crater, which,
breaking down its walls for miles, flowed on to the sea.

The whole neighbourhood is exceedingly interesting to a
geologist.

Traces of terrible volcanic action exist everywhere, extinct
for ages, but which may one day burst forth again, and perhaps
again submerge the whole or part of the island. On the sides
of the ravines tufa is in abundance, also large water-worn
stones, covered with a soft coating of sedimentary deposit, and
small pieces of pumice stone are sometimes found.

Having several times been the recipient of the kindly hospi-
talities of Sir Henry Barkly and his fair consort, I can speak
feelingly of the natural beauties of Reduit, as I enjoyed them
so heartily.

During one of my visits I was informed that in a certain
room in the NE. end of the building a student committed
suicide, also that a lady's maid was found dead in her bed in
the time of the occupation of Eeduit by Sir W. Stevenson. I
was told that this room was haunted by their spirits and others,
black, grey, and white, according to the servants' belief, who
all studiously avoided it. I, however, chose this apartment,
and did all I could to invite some one of the ghosts to give me
an audience, but unsuccessfully ; so I presume when they made
their visits I was in the arms of Morpheus. Or, it may be
that the presence of a real live Yankee (a genuine one) was so
great a rarity, they had not the courage to face such a curiosity.
Possibly my total unbelief in spirits and their rappings made
me an impracticable subject. At any rate my sleep was sweet
and refreshing, so their gambols must for once have been
carried on in other rooms where timidity reigned supreme.

On the slopes of the ravines are pretty walks vv^here I have
strolled delightedly, inhaling the fresh breezes of the early
morning, the only really enjoyable part of the day m the sum-
mer at Mauritius. Then all nature looks glad, and every tree

Ch. XV.] THE MARTIN. 191

and shrub shines freshly out after the cool night. Every bird
is busy and carolling at the top of its voice, as if it knew the
scorching heat of the sun would soon reduce it to silence.

Of all merry birds commend me to the Myna (Accidotheres
tristis) or Martin. I can only compare these jolly little
creatures to rooks in a rookery.

Like them they are gregarious, and they equal them in noise.
It is almost deafening to stand under a tree where they have
taken up their quarters. The first thing in the morning they
begin, and it is most amusing to watch the scolding, chattering,
fighting, and flirting that go on before the bird business of the
day begins, and each goes off on some quest of its own.

Sometimes a little blue monkey would be visible, but so shy
it was impossible to get a closer acquaintance with it.

All along the margins of the ravines is a luxuriant growth of
shrubs and lianes, but the latter making such a tangle that
they were in some places almost impassable.

In many parts the clear waters of the river ran over and
through the rocks with considerable force and noise ; in others
glided on in silence, without a ripple on their surface ; and
again, down they plunged with a sullen roar to a great depth.

Close to the water the ground is encumbered with rocks, all
covered with mosses and uprooted trunks of trees, on which grow
lichens and rare fungi.

Many ferns grow here peculiar to the island, some amongst the
disintegrated rocks and some in the soft vegetable mould ; the
fronds, delicate and perfect as the most elegant plumes of
feathers, waving gracefully in the light breezes playing through
the ravines.

A short distance from Reduit are the falls par excellence,
which, in the rainy season, send a heavy body of water into the
deep basin below, that is fringed with still finer ferns, from the
spray always dashing over them. In some places on the sides
of the ravines the Malabars have cleared the land, and made
fine vegetable gardens, the produce of which is sold in Port
Louis.

The lover of the pastoral, the admirer of rocks and ravines,
the sentimental seeker of shady glades, purling streams, or braw-
ling brooks, the venturesome scalers of mountain heights, and
the explorer of subterranean caverns, may all find their various
tastes gratified in this neighbourhood.

192

FERNERY.

[Ch. XV.

Attached to Reduit is a beautiful fernery, containing not
only the greater part of the ferns indigenous to Mauritius, but
many introduced from foreign countries. The native orchids
are there also, as well as many fine specimens from Madagascar.
It is kept with the greatest care, and is especially under the
auspices of Lady Barkly, who takes particular interest in it. At
most of the flower shows may be seen a collection of ferns,
orchids, and lycopodia in her name, for which she has carried
off several prizes.

There is also an aviary, containing all the native and accli-

TROPICAL SCENE.

matised birds of Mauritius, and many lovely foreign ones,
principally from India and Australia.

Since my first visit, Reduit has suffered terribly by the cyclone
of March 1868.

The right wing of the house was nearly destroyed, and this
caused great alarm to the inhabitants.

It was of wood, like most old houses here, but it is now being
substantially rebuilt of stone.

The gardens too were sadly damaged, and many fine trees of
nearly a century's growth were uprooted.

Ch. XV.] REDUIT. 193

Fortunately nature soon spreads a new covering of leaves over
the ravages made by the elements ; but the real injury to fruit-
trees is serious, as it destroys all blossom for the season, and in
place of the mango and other trees being laden with their
luscious burden, we have only masses of leaves.

Taken altogether, Eeduit is one of the pleasantest retreats
in the colony, and does infinite credit to the taste of M. David,
who selected so delightful a spot for a summer residence.

THAPTER XVI.

THE MARRIAGE CEREMONY OF THE MADRAS MALABAR INDIANS.

Permission to visit a Wedding-feast — Preliminary Ceremonies — Initiation of
Bridegroom — Initiation of Bride —Intermediate Ablutions and Change of Dress
— Description of the Bride's second Appearance — The actual Marriage — Presents
to the Groom, and his Share of the Proceedings — Only Food allowed the
Wedded Pair — Sprees on the Third Day — Consummation.

I HAD never seen a Malabar wedding, nor could I get any
information from my friends about one ; so I instructed my ser-
vant, who is a Madrassee himself, to give me notice when one
would take place among his own friends, and get me permission
to witness it.

One day I was informed there was to be a grand gathering in
Moka Street, as a wedding was in contemplation. Better still,
the happy man was an intimate friend of Bopchia (mentioned
in my trip up the Pouce), and I had full permission to see the
whole ceremony if I chose.

Grreat preparations were made, and an infinity of presents
collected for the occasion. A house was hired for the three
days during which the wedding festivities are kept up. On a
day, sunshiny enough to satisfy any bride, at eleven o'clock, a
large party set out in procession, bearing aloft the presents on
their heads.

These consisted of wreaths of flowers, bananas, pine-apples,
cocoa-nuts, areca-nuts, betel, different coloured powders, incense,
pumpkins, &c., all of which were arranged with flowers, and
placed on trays covered with white cloths.

When some distance from the house the company halted,
the presents were uncovered, and one of the party entered
to inform the bride's mother of their presence. A band of
music was sent to escort them, consisting of a tom-tom, two
clarionets, and two pairs of cymbals, and then the procession

Ch. XVI.] A WEDDING. 195

moved on to the entrance. This was a doorway leading to a
large yard, with the never-failing cocoa-nut and banana leaves
to adorn it.

On passing in, at the rear of the house was seen a large place
enclosed with canvas, where a concourse of Indians, dressed in
their best, was assembled.

On approaching this tent the music ceased and an Indian
appeared, demanding a piece of money, which was instantly
given ; and I found it was the value of the bride, or the stipu-
lated present to the father of the woman, which takes the form
of purchase, and converts the whole affair into a bargain or sale.
This state of things I learn stands prominently out in certain
phases of Indian society, under which social system large sums
are frequently given by the father of a daughter of a lower
caste to induce a man of higher class to consent to his son's
marriage.

In a few minutes two young dancing-girls came out, hand-
somely dressed in white Dacca muslin chemises, with long
graceful robes of Indian figured silk, and their heads arranged
with gold ornaments. I could not help admiring their small
delicate forms and tiny hands and feet, as they stood holding
up a dish of a liquid like blood, made of saffron and lime, and
singing a plaintive melody.

When they had finished, the band struck up some lively tune,
and then the whole party entered the tent.

In front of a sofa sat a Brahmin priest, cross-legged, a number
of cocoa-nut oil lamps burning round him, and between them a
large round stone used for preparing curry, representing a
goddess, and dishes filled with rice and fruits. When he had
arranged all to his liking, the music played quickly, and the
bridegroom made his appearance, attended by his nearest friend.
He was a young man about twenty-two years of age, slightly
built, with long flowing black hair. He had on a bright yellow
dress edged with gold lace, and wore on his head a most
curiously-constructed white turban. He seated himself cross-
legged on the sofa, and a few women then came in. The mother
of the bride had a van' in her hands, containing oil and other
articles for bathing purposes, small manioc cakes, and a bunch

' A van is a sort of flat basket for cleaning rice.

196 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. [Ch. XVI.

of dried grass. Taking a position directly before the bride-
groom, she anointed him with the oil by touching his knees and
shoulders, then on the top of his head, repeating a prayer for
his future prosperity and happiness, and was followed by the
other women, who had previously stood behind him : they
repeated the same ceremonies.

The bridegroom, who had been sitting all this time patiently,
retired, and the bride put in her first appearance, looking very
downcast and sad, led in by her attendants.

She was about eighteen, good-looking and plump, and was
placed cross-legged also on the sofa, and all the same rites were
gone through with her.

The Brahmin priest then blessed her, and a tray was brought
forward containing the marriage-string, the wedding garments,
wreaths, &c. ; and a brass pot full of boiled rice was also
brought in, and pieces of banana leaves were spread out. A
woman filled each leaf with rice, adding milk, cream, ghee
and sugar ; the priest, lighting a few coals in a censer, and
sprinkling incense (benj amine powder) over them, waved the
censer backwards and forwards over the rice, as also a piece of
burning camphor as an offering to the gods and goddesses, said
to be present in the tent, to witness the marriage, and invoked
their blessings on the pair. The bride was then led away to
an adjoining room, to prepare her for the rest of the ceremony.

Meantime her lord and master soon to be was busy washing
his body in the yard, and then all returned to the tent ; after
which the bridegroom broke a cocoa-nut and burnt a piece of
camphor, to invoke the Sun's blessing on the pair ; the music
.playing vigorously whilst waiting the re-appearance of the bride.
Her dress is always changed at this stage of the ceremony, for
fear of any spot of dirt on it, which would be unlucky.

Presently in she came with her attendants, dressed in a
beautiful robe of crimson and gold-figured silk. On her head
she wore a plait of rose and other flower-buds, extending from
her forehead to her shoulders ; across it was laid an ornament
about six inches long and two wide, with gold and silver rosettes
dangling from it ; at the end of each was a little dove holding
a bunch of flowers in its beak, and those fell round her face
so as almost entirely to hide it from view, and I presume to
spare her blushes.

Ch. XVI.] A MARRIAGE SERVICE. 197

I pitied the poor thing under such a load in a hot day,
particularly when they told me it had to be worn for three
nights and three days, during which time it is supposed not to
wither if she is a good girl ; should it do so she must pay a fine
to Bramah, but I believe it is not often enforced. Her arms
were bare, and smeared with a paste of sandal-wood ashes, also
for luck. When she was properly seated, the groom took his
place- beside her on the sofa. The priest then lighted a small
fire and poured oil over it, which he dipped from a basin with
a maize leaf. (This is Ms invocation for the babies.) He then
sprinkled rice over the shoulders of bride and groom, and held
towards them a copper dish filled with rice, bananas, and cocoa-
nuts. They both had their hands filled with the mixture, then
they put some in each other's hands, and after this the dish
was carried round, and everyone, down to the smallest child,
placed both hands in it. This is to show that there are plenty
of witnesses to the compact, and that if they break their oaths
there are numbers to prove the perjury.

The bridegroom then placed a yellow silk cord round the
bride's neck, which is her wedding-ring and proof of her
marriage. At this a general clapping of hands took place, the
band played some quick tune, and everyone looked pleased.

The priest again came forward and tied the ends of their
robes together to prevent the demons from touching them ; and
two of the brothers, one for each side, sat down before him
while he repeated the names of the newly-married couple,
Thomas^ and Pomona. They (the brothers) then vowed to
give notice to all the world that they were satisfied with the
match, and had witnessed the marriage. They rose, and the
groom filled their hands with rice, washed their feet in water,
with lime infused into it, and threw rice over them, and the
bride did the same.

The happy pair were then marked on the forehead and
conducted by two girls, neatly dressed in white, three times
round the place, one carrying a lighted taper, the other a dish
of fruit, to receive tne congratulations of their friends. When
the third round was completed, the bride placed her foot on the

' Thomas was a Catholic, and had a service in the church ; but as his wife was
a Malabar, he was obliged to go through all her ceremonies as well as his own.

198 A HAPPY PAIR. [Ch. XVI.

curry-stone above alluded to, representing a goddess, and the
brother handed the bridegroom four silver rings, which he
placed on the second toes of each foot. This was an oath taken
before the goddess that all was fair dealing between the
families, and to impress on them not to deceive each other.

An unmarried woman may wear as many armlets and earrings
as her caprice, the length of her purse, or liberality of her
lovers will permit ; but the toe-rings are the privilege of the
wedded state only.

Once more the newly-married pair were seated in state on
the sofa, and one of the girls held up the dish of saffron, to keep
away all evil eyes, and sang a song which seemed to give great
satisfaction to all present, and then the friends each threw a
small quantity of rice over the patient couple.

Now came the crowning point in the ceremony, as far as the
groom is concerned. Presents of money are given by every one
of the assembled relatives and friends, and a considerable pile
was soon accumulated — luckily for him, for the wedding cost
him about a hundred and fifty dollars, besides as much rice as
could be consumed in three days.

A dance was performed by the girls of the family only, and
then the feasting began.

The groom is compelled to give food for three days to all his
guests and relatives, such as rice, vegetables, milk and fruit.
No meat is allowed to be eaten, and wine is utterly forbidden,
under a heavy penalty to the groom. If a man chooses to go
and drink outside he can, but no intoxicating liquor is allowed
to enter the sacred precints. Thus, though the noise and fun
are fast and furious, drunkenness is unknown.

But to return to the happy (?) pair. They are only permitted
to take bananas, milk, or vegetables, once, a day, towards
evening, for the three days. They are kept in state, and guarded
by the relations.

On the third day, in the afternoon, a regular spree takes
place. They all go to a river, where the bride's wreath is thrown
in, which answers the same purpose as the slipper thrown with
us, viz. for good luck. All retiu:n, and the now free man and
wife take an active share in the fun. They are allowed to
sprinkle every one near them with the saffron mixtm'e, which
they do in right good earnest, and which is taken as a hint to

Ch. XVI.] AN ORDEAL. i99

be off, and then he carries her away to his own house to com-
mence the honeymoon.

How would our fair belles of Europe or America like to un-
dergo such an ordeal ? I guess that many a damsel would
hesitate before saying ' yes ' to a three days' ceremony such
as just described.

CHAPTKR XVIL

FLAT ISLAND.

Our Skipper — View inland — Turtle Bay — Old French Fort— Grand Baie — Whales
— Cannonier's Point — Land near Grand Baie — Fishing — Gunners' Quoin — The
Pass — Our Welcome— Quarantine Station — Water Supply — Wells — Plants and
Trees — Our Quarters — Landing-bridge — Coluxnba Rock — On the Reefs — Corals
— Polyps — Zoophytes — Algae — Palisade Bay — Lighthouse — Cemetery — The
Mountain — Geological Features — Caves — Gabriel Island — The Quoin — Detached
Rocks on Mountain — Volcanoes supposed to have been in this Vicinity— Return.

The Surveyor-Greneral's department has a fine yacht used for
Grovernment purposes ; and as one of its officers was about to
proceed to Flat Island on business, I gladly availed myself of an
invitation to visit it. In April 1869 we sailed out of the Fan-
faron, with a fair breeze and a flowing sail.

The old and careful skipper of the boat was sick with fever,
and his place was filled by a young creole, who was probably
more daring, and hoisted all sail, which, though it sped us on
our way, made it somewhat uncomfortable on deck, as we were
constantly taking in water. This, with the gloomy morning
and occasional showers, frequently drove us below, where we
found very jolly quarters.

We sailed along the outer edge of the reef till we reached
Tombeau Bay, when we steered to the north. There we had a
fine view inland of the Black Eiver range as far as the north-
eastern spur of Montague Longue ; and I think this view, which
takes in at a glance all its singular peaks, is one of the grandest
in Mauritius. Behind us the Pointe aux Canes, in the distance,
looked like a long narrow promontory extending far into
the sea.

The country NE. of Tombeau Bay is flat, and presents nothing
near the coast but a few fishermen's huts with a lime-kiln or
two, and some scattered corca and filoa trees. We next

Ch. XVII.] V/EIV INLAND. 201

passed the pretty little arm of the sea called Turtle Bay, on
account, it is said, of the great numbers of that Chelonia of al-
dermanic repute formerly caught here, as they visited these
shores to deposit their eggs. There are, I suppose, still some
in the neighbourhood, as once a week an hotel-keeper in Port
Louis advertises ' Eeal genuine turtle-soup ready this day at
noon ; ' but I should doubt its approval at the Mansion House
or Fifth Avenue Hotel !

The residence, with the flour-mills and distillery, spoken of
in another chapter, stand at the head of this bay ; and some-
one displayed great taste by adorning its shdres, one side with
filoas, and the other with cocoa-nut trees.

The land is covered with rank coarse grass, and at the Point
aux Piments the shore is steep and rocky, the waves breaking
directly upon it. The ruins of an old French fortification
stand on this Point. Only a portion of the walls of the officers'
quarters and the north-west end of the building remain.

Then comes Grand Bale. Whales are occasionally caught
very near this part of the island. On the 20th of this month
Captain Sherman, of the American bark ' Young Phoenix,' when
about to come to anchor off the Bell Buoy, heard the welcome
cry from the mast-head of ' There she blows ! ' Immediately
all was bustle on board ; the boats were lowered, and in a very
few minutes they were rowing away from the ship, which was
put about, and the pilot, who was already on board, took to his
boat and returned to Port Louis. Away went the bark after
her boats, which were pulling vigorously, each straining to get
in the first harpoon ; and it was not long before they killed five
of these monsters of the deep. They were soon cut up and
boiled, and the ship netted 10,000 dollars.

Punning out some distance into the sea is Cannonier's Point,
a ledge of rock over which the waves foam and surge turbu-
lently. On the Point stands a lighthouse with a fixed catop-
tric light — a most needful beacon to warn mariners against the
reefs to the NE. and SW. of the Point, also to indicate the
dangerous shoal in its vicinity. There is a quarantine estab-
lishment for vessels arriving with small-pox or any other con-
tagious disease. It is also a military post, so that a number of
houses have been built, very conveniently situated for the gar-
rison, as well as the isolated buildings for immigrants.

P

202 GUNNERS' QUOIN [Ch. XVII.

Grand Bale is inhabited principally by fishermen, famed for
their skill in the management of their boats and pirogues. Most
of the land in the vicinity is cultivated with canes. It is a
marvel how anything can grow, judging from its appearance,
for it is covered with boulders of every size, up to masses many
tons in weight. Huge cairn-like piles of rocks lie in all direc-
tions, and are intersected by what appear to be low walls, but
which are in reality the aforesaid boulders rolled together, and
the only earth for planting lies between them. This, however,
is rich loamy soil, and suited to most tropical productions.

Before the railroad was opened, great quantities of sugar were
shipped hence to Port Louis from the Pamplemousses district.
A great part of the fish sold in the city market daily is brought
from Grrand Bale, Point aux Piments, and Tombeau Bay.

We now steered for the Grunners' Quoin, or Coin de Mire, and
were soon opposite this curious rock. The sea was very rough
here, but our craft danced bravely over the waves, though at
times standing at an angle of ten degrees. I shall speak of
the singular formation of this cliff later on. A small cave has
been hollowed out of it on the NW. side by a fisherman,' who
sometimes remains there all night pursuing his occupation.
At one point, when passing through the channel between the
Quoin and Flat Island, a side view of the rock gives an excel-
lent profile of the Iron Duke. There he is with his chapeau on,
and his very prominent nose standing out in such good relief
as to produce an unmistakable likeness. I should prefer giving
it the name of Wellington Eock, in honour of one of the greatest
men of his time.

The current in this channel, which sets in a westerly direction,
greatly retarded our progress, and a heavy cross sea made us
pitch and toss about most uncomfortably ; and as we rounded
the Pass between Grabriel and Flat Islands, the sea rolled and
broke over us, drenching our decks. Our skipper, however,
skilfully carried us in alongside the stone jetty lately built b}^
the Government. I confess I was not sorry to find myself again
on terra firma. We were received by Captain Green, who has
the charge of the island, and Mr. Edwards, the lighthouse-

' The probability is, that trie man has enlarged one of the many natvral cavities:
to be found on this coast.

Ch. XVII.] FLAT ISLAND. 203

keeper, who gave us a cordial welcome to their limited ter-
ritory.

We were told that at times the Pass is so dangerous, that
often days elapse when boats dare not enter, and they are
obliged to lay at anchor outside — a very miserable position, I
should think, on account of the heavy swell caused by the sea
rolling in over the shoal coral-beds. Not long since a boat up-
set and broke to pieces, and the occupants, two ladies and a
gentleman, were drowned. There is a signal station here, to
give notice if it is practicable for boats to enter.

Flat Island is also a quarantine station, and the Grovernment
has erected numerous substantial buildings, made roads, planted
trees, sunk wells, and beautified the place so as to make it
pleasantly habitable. Works containing a condensing apparatus
stand near the jetty, in which 12,000 gallons of pure water can
be condensed in twenty-four hours. A donkey-engine is used
for this purpose ; and after the water is condensed, it passes
through an iron filter three feet deep by eighteen inches in
diameter, and is then conveyed into iron tanks, each con-
taining 400 gallons. The whole establishment is in excellent
order, and must have cost the Grovernment a considerable sum
of money.

Wells have been dug- for cattle, some of them from eight to
ten feet deep, which are cut through the loose volcanic rocks and
a lower strata of conglomerate, composed of fine particles of
various marine substances in process of solidification, similar to
that I observed near the jetty, and resting on a bed of coral.
We were informed that the waters of these wells were unwhole-
some for man, as they possess deleterious ingredients that fre-
quently act as a purgative. I concluded they contain a large
quantity of lime, from passing through the decomposed coral
and shells, which abound everywhere under the surface.

We proceeded over a good road laid out on an elevated
dune, which reaches from east to west on the north-west shore.
Everywhere we saw patches of a pretty little shrub, whose bright
green leaves relieved the eye from the glare of the sun. The
Psiadia glutinosa, or Flat Island Balm, which takes its name
from the place, and is used by the Creoles very successfully for
cuts and other wounds ; the Citronella (^Androjpogon Schcenan-
thus), and sundry coarse grasses, were abundant. We also found

204 COLUMBA OR PIGEON ROCK. [Ch. XVII.

plants of the Ipomcea maHthna, Eugenia cordifolia, Wcenigici
maritima, and Purina maritima. I gathered only two ferns,
the Adiantum caudatum and Phymatodes vulgaris.

The Latania glaucophylla flourishes here, the seeds of
which are constantly brought by the currents from Eound Island,
and grow very rapidly. These, with filaos and cocoa-palms,
were planted in the valley, and added much to the miniature
landscape.

We were shown to what had been the doctor's quarters ; and,
after depositing our vasculums and traps, and making ourselves
presentable, we went to Captain Grreen's house, where we found
a capital breakfast prepared for us, most welcome to himgry
voyagers.

Flat Island is nearly a mile wide, and the valley extends
almost across it. The Quarantine-houses are on the south-
west, and near them, on the beach of a small inlet, the rocks
have been removed, and an elevated bridge built, which runs
out for about 100 feet, in order to facilitate the landing in
rough weather. The bridge is ascended by a ladder about
twenty feet high, so that generally a safe debar cation can be
efiected.

Near this point is the curious Columba or Pigeon Eock,
whose top is white with guano. The sides appear almost per-
pendicular, but could, nevertheless, be easily ascended if a safe
landing could be secured. When we saw it, the waves were
madly breaking against it, throwing up columns of spray, and
the current swirling rapidly round its base. This is an iso-
lated basaltic cliff, about half a mile from the shore, and rises
to the height of 110 feet; the top appearing nearly level.
On the shore opposite the Columba a ridge of detached
basaltic rocks extends, piled up irregularly, but all resting on
coral.

Being the full of the moon, the tides were unusually low,
with a strong trade wind blowing, so that some parts of the
reefs were nearly uncovered, and by jumping from rock to rock
I managed to reach them. Polyps in myriads were around me,
and in some places I could see the various madrepores and mean-
drinas at work, carrying on their never-ending-still-beginning
process of building. The animals of the latter begin to work
in a circle, and gradually, by the slowest stages, they build up

Ch. XVII.J POLYPS. 205

the walls within and without, finishing the whole with a dome-
like covering. How slow the operation is may be imagined,
when Professor Agassiz writes, that ' an inch in fourteen years,
or a foot a century,' is the average rate at which corals are
formed.

The little star-shaped creatures of the madrepores radiated
the loveliest colours from their tentaculge, as they moved in and
out of their habitations, and with a strong lens every move-
ment could be seen.

Thousands of a fleshy polyp covered the rocks, making the
scrambling over them slippery work. They were in patches,
and each community was about an inch in diameter. Their
colour was a reddish purple, with a pink mouth and tentaculse,
and they were an interesting sight. Though these animals
live in communities, and are imbedded in a jelly-like matrix,
each appears to have a perfectly independent existence. Cut
them in a dozen pieces, and they will still go on multiplying,
as you only destroy the bodies you actually separate.

I noticed a number of zoophytes which I believe to be Flustras ;
their beautiful leaf-like forms could easily be taken for the
Pavonia coated with lime. Echinoides, star-fish, and crabs were
in myriads. I collected many specimens of Algge from the
rocks and pools, including the following genera : Eucheuma,
Grigartina, Caulerpa, Ceramium, Pavonia, Ulva, Sargassum,
and Digenia. I found here, for the first time, the curious
Eucheu'tYia horridum of Agard. This plant is of a deep livid
purple when alive, but turns to a greyish purple, variegated with
orange, when dried. It resembles in external structure one of
the thorny cacti, but the thick fleshy stems are scarcely
recognisable when dry. The shells I found were small and
insignificant of their species. I quitted the reef at last, very
reluctantly, but the returning tide warned me of the danger of
delay, and I sought the shore in all haste.

At this side of the island is Palisade Bay, and from it to the
jetty are found strata of basaltic sandstone. Near the jetty I
observed large slabs, which appear to have been detached from
their original beds. This sandstone is formed by the aggrega-
tion of fragments of broken shells, corals and disintegrated
volcanic rocks, and other matter thrown up from the sea, and
agglutinated by the carbonate of lime in it.

2o6

LIGHTHOUSE ROCK.

[Ch. XVII.

Further out on the coral beds a similar formation is still
going on, and very rapidly too. In Dr. Ayres' account of Flai
Island, he mentions that the engineer informed him ' that the
holes excavated for the piers of the jetty were immediately
filled with sand, which in a very short time was converted into
solid sandstone.' ^

On the east of the -island is its one mountain, and on it stands
the lighthouse, built on a small plateau, at the height of 370
feet above sea level. It shows a revolving catoptric light of the
first order. On this plateau is a grave cut in the sandstone, in
which lies buried Mrs. Sarah Creed, the wife of a former keeper
of the lighthouse. She died of cholera in 1854, and the present

LIGHTHOUSE ROCK, FLAT ISLAND.

keeper still tends the lonely spot, and has adorned it by plant-
ing flowers round the grave. The cemetery lies to the east of
the island, and but too many have found a resting-place there.
A short time since the skeleton of a man was found when
making the road ; it was in a sitting posture, and was supposed
to have been a victim to some assassin, possibly in the old days

» This Tolcanic sand, or ' Pesserine,' is composed of comminuted basaltic rock,
decomposed corals, and minute foraminiferous shells, and is more or less over the
wl;ole island ; that near the mountain containing most of the volcanic material,
the rest with a larger proportion of sea and crab-shells, Echinoides, &c.

Ch. XVIL]

LIVING CORAL.

207

when piracy was life in these seas. They carefully gathered his
bones, and laid them in a nameless grave in the cemetery.

On ascending the mountain the same phenomena present
themselves as at Round Island. Between the different strata
volcanic stones and pebbles lie in great regularity, indicating the
various periods of activity of the neighbouring volcanoes.

On the summit Mr. Edwards, at my request, cut out of the
solid formation several species of coral, which had been
imbedded in it when in a plastic state below the sea, and all
were well preserved. Most of these corals can be found in a
living state in the neighbourhood of the island on the reef.
One specirnen of Astrsea was as perfect as if just taken from the
beach. Madrepora, Porites, Meandrina, and Millepora were

THE GUNNEBS' QUOIN.

very numerous, not only on the top, but on the deep fissures
which occur on the south of the mountain, and even in the
solid sides of the cliffs. Large masses of disintegrated coral and
shells are also frequently met with in process of change to a
hard compact limestone.

The west and south sides of this mountain are steep ; the latter
a little sloping, the former almost perpendicular. The dip of the
strata is from east to west and north, at an angle of about 30°.
The colour of the rocks varies as greatly as their formation ; the
harder and unstratified being brownish black or grey blue,
and others, showing more decided stratification, are of a red-
dish ferruginous hue. The latter is so friable that it was with

2o8 GABRIEL ISLAND. [Ch. XVII.

difficulty I could bring away good specimens, as it crumbled
easily in my hands.

On the eastern slope are groups of huge detached rocks,
heaped at random in a semicircle, which are true basalt, deposited
there by the volcanic agency of which I shall speak presently.
Many of them have been rolled into the valley below, and others
into the sea. Degraded rocks and debris have been washed down
in immense quantities from the sides of the mountain, filling
the valley to such an extent that the sea has been gradually
driven back, and the dry land formed. Even at the present day
many parts of this valley are little above the level of the sea,
and in some places ponds which are seldom dry are met with of
brackish water.

At the base of the mountain are several small caves caused
by the action of the waves on the basaltic rocks, and towards
the west is a three-chambered cavern formed by the sea forcing-
its way through the interstices of the rocks and wearing them
away, as is constantly seen in upheavals of this description.

A great part of the island is covered with volcanic sand, but
to the east lie dunes nearly thirty feet in height, which form a
barrier to the sea. These dunes are as undulating as the
ordinary sand-dunes of Europe. They are of recent formation
in comparison with the age of the Lighthouse mountain, and in
all probability, when the drifts first assumed sufficient tenacity
to accumulate, the sea must have rolled between them and the
mountain, over the coral beds on which they rest, and which
are distinctly seen cropping out at low water mark.

Across the narrow-boat channel from the jetty, at about half
a mile distant, lies Grabriel Island ; to the north the chain of
basaltic rocks, and the reefs are nearly uncovered at low tides. I
am of opinion that Gabriel Island was once a part of the headland
of Flat Island. At an early period it was covered with palms,
vacoas and other endogenous trees, traces of which are now seen
on the eastern side, represented by casts similar to those J
observed at the Kesaux Aigrettes and Passe, near Mahebourg.
Such casts are nowhere to be found at Flat Island, though I
looked carefully for them, and enquired for them. These remains
prove beyond a doubt that Grabriel Island was submerged and
again upheaved.

South-west of Flat Island, about four miles distant, stands the

Ch. XVII.] VOLCANIC ISLANDS. 209

towering rock of the Gunner's Quoin, rising perpendicularly
from the ocean to the height of 550 feet. Its formation
resembles that of the Lighthouse Mountain, a crumbling
volcanic sandstone. The strata lie in a south-easterly direction,
at an angle of about thirty degrees, and are better defined than
those on the mountain, as they are distinctly visible from the
sea level to the summit. Part of the island of the Quoin at
the eastern base is covered with volcanic stones and lava that
once flowed over it from some volcaao in its neighbourhood.

I noticed the remains of a similar flow at the Table Eock at
Eound Island, and another at Amber Island, off the shore of
the Eiviere du Eempart district in Mauritius. They all indicate
without doubt that a large and very active volcano existed
between these islands. Another rose between the Quoin and
Flat Island : the soundings of the channel by Mr. Corby, the
Grovernment surveyor, prove the presence of deep holes where
this has subsided. The semicircular group of detached volcanic
rocks mentioned on the eastern summit of the Lio-hthouse
Mountain entirely differ from the formation on which they
lie (being pure basalt), and appear to have been deposited at a
very recent date. They are little changed by the elements
and show no indications of being water-worn. I think it is
most probable they were ejected from the crater of the last-
mentioned volcano.

There is every reason to believe that the steep sides of the
Pigeon Eock are parts of the wall of another volcano, the rest
of which has disappeared beneath the surging billows, perhaps
in some future age to rise again, its peaks abraded and water-
worn.

I have already stated that corals and marine shells are
embedded in the different strata shown on the sides and top of
the Lighthouse Mountain, many of them in good preservation,
thus proving that they were deposited under water in horizontal
beds. This mountain and the Quoin were doubtless once as
round and perfect as Eound and Serpent Islands, but the former
were most likely divided at the time of their upheaval ; parts
breaking away in violent storms and subsiding into the sea,
their sides and general appearance warranting the belief.

Upheavals which have a cone at their base often occur, but
are not uplifted with sufficient force to break through the bed.

2IO

UPHEA VALS.

[Ch. XVII.

This is evidently the case at Kound and Serpent Islands, or
perhaps there was force enough to cause them to open in the
centre, but not to separate as in the Quoin and Flat Island. If
this had been the case traces would, in all probability, have
been visible, even if such openings had been filled by the effects
of erosion. Such upheavals are among the results of lateral
eruption around great volcanoes near the sea.

I was but too soon obliged to quit my researches in this
interesting island and obey a summons from our skipper, who
was homeward bound. I was very sorry my time was so short,
for I could have spent many days here very profitably and
pleasantly ; but my friend was obliged to return to Port Louis,
so I had no alternative but to return also.

OLD SLATE CREOLES.

CHAPTER XVIII.

LA CHASSE.

The Hunting Season in Mauritius — Game preserved — An Invite — On the way to
the Meet — Our Posts — The Quartiers militaires — How I obeyed Orders — Our
Game — Ferns — Our Comrades' Luck — Our Count— A Wild Boar — Return from
the Chasse — Distribution of Game — Description of Cochon Mc^rron.

Hark ! hark ! who calleth the maiden morn

From her sleep in the woods and stubble corn {i.e. canes) ?

The horn! The horn !
The merry sweet ring of hunter's horn.

And a hunting we will go, my boys,

And a hunting we will go.

Deer-hunting in Mauritius is quite an institution, and is
popular with both Europeans and Mauritians ; indeed, with the
latter it amounts to a grande passion. When a chasse is
proposed, no need then to complain of the ordinary indifference
or laziness ; on the contrary, every one is roused to no end of
activity. The hunting season begins on the 1 5th of May, and
terminates at the end of August.

In some of the districts of the island there are yet dense
forests and jungle that have escaped the ruthless hand of man,
and where Nature still revels in all her glory. The various
hunting-grounds are strictly preserved and guarded with
jealous care by their owners ; and woe betide the unlucky
wight trespassing on them, or indulging a taste for venison,
without having a porte d'armes in his pocket. Every particu-
lar ground has its hangar or hunting-box, which is the
rendezvous for the chasseurs.

Invitations are sent out some days previous to the hunt ; the
hour and place of the meet are specified — of course before

212 HUNTING. [Ch. XVIII.

the sun is up, and at the nearest point to the ground which is
to be hunted over.

I received an invite to one of these gatherings, and, after
acceptance, one's first care is to provide a license to shoot for
the season, for which ten dollars are demanded. Having looked
well at rifle and ammunition, I started for the Moka district, to
dine and pass the night with a Scotch friend and a young army
officer. The former is an old sportsman, and as fine a fellow as
one could wish for a comrade ; and with him I was to proceed
to the meet on the morrow, and make my debut as a chasseur
in Mauritius.

Up by daylight, a hasty cup of coffee, and away we sped as
fast as two fleet horses could go over the seven miles intervening
between us and the hangar of the gentleman who gave the
chasse. All along the road were carriages full of gentlemen
armed with guns and couteaux de chasse, carts containing the
dogs, servants with baskets of refreshments on their heads ; all
was bustle and gaiety, in anticipation of a good time, and my
host had to exchange salutations with almost everyone we met.

When about half-way to our destination one of the horses
cast a shoe, and we had to turn aside to Bonne Veine to have it
put on again. Here we were hospitably received, and though
our spirits were already excellent, a decanter of fine brandy was
brought out, with cool sparkling soda-water, which raised them
a little higher. Our friendly host also furnished us with an
extra gun and ammunition. The shoeing did not take long,
and, thanking him for his attention and kindness in our need,
on we went. I must say I have found that hospitality and
friendliness are universal amongst both English and French
planters.

The morning broke gloomily with showers of rain, notwith-
standing which a large party was assembled when we arrived at
the Quartiers militaires. Here we left our carriage and went
to the hangar, which was at some distance, on foot, by a narrow
pathway through the wood. Soon all were assembled, and after
a few words with Dr. N., the proprietor of the grounds, the
business of the day began.

About thirty of us were told off in squads and placed under
the charge of a piqueur (a coloured man supposed to be well
up to his work), to be posted. Along we went through the

Ch. XVIII.] OUR POSTS. 11-5

woods, sometimes over the dry bed of a river ; now and then
across a swamp filled with tall grass and weeds ; anon sinking
to one's knees; wading across streams, and again forcing our way
through trees, ferns, or canes.

In some places the latter were so thick that it was with diffi-
culty we could get through. Vegetation is here in the wildest
luxuriance ; it was perfectly enchanting. I was delighted
beyond measure. The magnificent ferns and orchids hanging
from every tree, with here and there a bright-coloured flower
contrasting with the dark foliage, drove all thoughts of la chasse
out of my head ; I lagged behind— I could not help it, there
was so much to admire. In vain my companions kept calling
to me that I was pretty certain to get shot if I stopped behind
them ; I was so bewildered with the beauty of the place,
that it was most reluctantly, at last, I pushed on with my com-
rades.

One after another was posted till our party dwindled to three
— my host of the morning, his young friend, and myself.

At last W. was placed on an elevated spot of about two acres
in extent, near an open swamp, on one side about five or six
hundred feet across, with a small opening on the other, bordered
by a dense jungle. Our conductor had received instructions
from his master to allow me to remain with W. ; so I was left
with strict injunctions to keep perfectly still, and not, on any
account, to quit my post.

I found it was an impossibility to obey such an order, and am
sorry to say I broke the rules very soon after I was posted.
Supposing there had been no attraction, I don't think I could
have stood there the whole day, on the wet ground, and with a
heavy shower now and then by way of variation. I soon set
about exploring, and the result was two or three of thai
pretty land-shell, the Helix pagoda^ all of them alive ; also the
Pupa sulcata, the largest and best specimens I ever obtained ;
Carocolla seTiiicirculata, Pupa lyoneciana, Helix aspersa, and
two or three of the genus Helix unknown to me.

In a stream I hastily examined, I took some Neretina lon-
gispina, and a few water-plants, two of the genus Tetraspora,
one Entromorpha, two of Eivularia, and one of Ulvacea ; and
had I had time enough, I should have gathered (to me at least)
many rich treasures.

214 A CHAT. [Ch. XVI II

I had strolled so far from W. and my own post that I
suddenly came upon my other friend the Lieutenant, fast asleep
on the grass, his rifle at his side, and his pipe on the ground just
as it had dropped from his mouth. My first idea was to hide his
rifle, and then fire mine over his head ; but on second thoughts
I did not like to play such a trick on a comrade, but preferred
awakening him by the drawing of a cork, a sound familiar and
welcome to his ear.

A drink and a pipe, and then he began to tell me his expe-
rience in tiger-hunting in India, all of which I respectfully
listened to. I had been a hunter all my life on our western
prairies, great seaboard, and immense rivers, and recommended
my friend to go to America, if he wanted to have his passion
for sport gratified to the utmost. The buffalo, and grisly bear,
the North American panther, and Moose deer, are all more
difficult and dangerous brutes to hunt than the Bengal tiger.

It ill betides the unlucky fellow who misses his shot with
these animals, and woe to the huntsman who fails to keep very
wide awake : to fall asleep would be certain death. Stag-hunting
in Mauritius is one thing, but moose and carribo-hunting on
the frontiers of North America is quite another.

After a comfortable smoke and chat with my sociable com-
panion, I started back to find my friend whom I had so long-
deserted. ' Halloo,' said he, ' where have you been ? ' ' Stag-
hunting,' was my reply. 'What luck?' ' I only saw one stag,
but did not like to molest him ! ' We sat down to have some-
thing to eat ; but whilst doing so, he sprang up, and told me to
follow him, as a stag must be near, the dogs were all in full
chase.

I ran to the edge of a marsh with a small clump of trees
intervening between me and the woods. A noble stag bounded
out of the copse into the open, the dogs in full cry after him.
They were about 600 yards off, but coming in an oblique
direction towards me. 'Shall I fire?' I asked. 'Do you see
him ? ' ' I do. ' All the time the stag was bounding before me.
I raised my rifle, and fired. The ball took effect, and with one
convulsive leap in the air, he fell dead on the spot. We both
ran up. ' A good shot, and a long one ; you have killed a fine
stag,' said W., who cut a notch in his ear for identification.

The ball had entered the fore shoulder, and killed him in-

Ch. XVIIL] ferns. 215

stantly, and a guardian soon made his appearance, to mark the
spot were our game lay.

We returned to finish our breakfast, and before we were well
through, my friend, who is familiar with the Mauritian chase, ^
was up again, and told me to keep quite still, as game was near.
A faint yelping was heard in the distance, which soon grew
very distinct on our right. Along came two or three beautiful
does with theirs fawns, but we let them pass, as it is against
the rules to kill them. Directly after came a fine stag, the
dogs only a little distance behind. His career was soon cut short :
W. raised his rifle, and sent a bullet so well home that he only
ran a few yards and then dropped. We went up, but found he
was not dead ; and he tried to use his horns, but W. quickly
dispatched him with his knife. Two noble stags falling under
our guns, we felt very well satisfied with our day's work, but still
ea&-er for sport. Like the mariner I once made a voyage with,
who took a drink of whiskey whenever he sighted a lighthouse,
we considered we ought to have a bumper of wine whenever
we killed a stag, which we did.

Our stags were not, however, so numerous as the lighthouses
were to the old salt.

No more game appearing, I laid down my rifle, and wandered
away again in search of ferns. This is one of the richest districts
for Cryptogams in Mauritius. I soon had my hands full, and
having no means of preserving them, I was obliged to make a
packet and sling it round my neck. To give a description of
them would be to mention half the ferns of the island ; they
must be seen in their native wilds to be fully appreciated.
The long ribbon-like fronds of the Opkioglossum pendulum,
the large deeply-indented ones of the Lonchitis pjubeseens, as
soft as if rich pile velvet ; Aspleniums, Nephrodiums, Tricho-
manes, Grleichenias, the graceful Ochropteris pallens with its
most delicate foliage ; Davallias, Polypodiums — I could ex-
tend the list ad infinitum, and every fern a treasure, many
peculiar to Mauritius. Elegant Lycopodiums shot forth theij
fronds from old trees, their tassels often four or five inches in
length, tossing saucily about with every wind, even the lightest
zephyr. Orchids hung from many a branch ; Hibernias, Crypto-
puses, and a host of others. Lianes entangled my feet at every
step, their forms and names utterly unknown to me ; and occa-

Q

2i6 THE CHASSEURS, [Ch. XVIII.

sionally a tree fern would rear its magnificent head, a crowning
beauty to the whole.

I only regretted I was not at the chasse aux plantes instead
♦, of aux cerfs. The prickly raspberry was troublesomely abun-
dant, and it scratches rather hard when its clumps are invaded ;
but flavourless as it is, I found the slight acid grateful. Num-
bers of guava trees grow wild, and were laden with fruit, and
very good too. At times I had to scramble over some fallen
g'iant of the forest, but its withered form was so covered with
parasitical foliage it was, if possible, more beautiful than when
alive ; its stately head was reared far above the surrounding
shrubs that now shaded it from the ardour of the sun. The
bark was so closely covered with mosses as to be almost invi-
sible, and it, in its turn, formed a shelter for the roots of the
delicate little Trichomanes Barklycv, discovered by Sir Henry
Barkly, and named after him. Dense masses of the sombre
Jamrosa gave shade impervious to the sun's rays, and I noticed
some fine Diospyros Ebenum, or black ebony, amongst other
large trees.

In a little pond near our post, I saw some wild ducks, pro-
bably the A7ias Melleri (^Sclater), introduced from Madagascar.
They were evidently breeding there, and though I should have
liked a specimen, I refrained from molesting them. If not
hunted for a few years, they will be numerous enough to
afi'ord the sportsman a pleasant day's shooting.

On our left the chasseurs were keeping up a perfect fusillade.
Bang ! bang ! every minute.

W. observed, ' There must be many deer in these woods, and
terrible slaughter going on ; look well to your rifle — it will be
our turn soon.' Sure enough, in a few minutes another stag-
made his appearance, but when he got near us, he swerved off
from his track, to an opposite direction. My friend, however,
ran and headed him at a great distance, and sent a bullet through
him, but he bounded on about a hundred yards before he felL
' Hurrah for our party ! three stags ; but three are unlucky,
we must have four ; we must look out sharp for another,
said I.

In the meantime our companion had joined us with bitter
lamentations. He had shot by mistake a doe, which unfortu-
nately had fallen on another property, and the guardian had

Ch. XVIII.]

SPORTSMEN'S LUCK.

217

secured it. We three were posted on the outermost limits of
Dr. N.'s grounds, and we were told not to iire in a certain
direction. Our friend had forgotten this, and finding it poor
fun to be sitting all day in the rain, without doing something,
he had fired at the first living thing he saw.

We afterwards discovered that our comrades on the right
were in much the same predicament, and had been amusino-
themselves with shooting at old stumps ; and one hunter had
fired eleven shots at a target, he told me. This was the fusil-
lade we had heard earlier in the morning.

BUTTERFLY.

We had now been on foot over six hours, so we concluded it
best to make our way back to the hangar, for the rain had set
in heavily, with no hope of a clear sky for that day. As we
passed along the woods, we stopped at the different posts to
listen to the yarns of each one's prowess. One gentleman swore
he had shot six stags, but unfortunately they all sloped ;
another had shot two, both of which a neighbour had fired his
gun over and claimed.

One old French gentleman positively asserted he had shot
eight, but could only show us one, the rest having disappeared
in the long grass ; his one was, however, a noble animal.

2i8 OUR COUNT. [Ch. XVIII.

At every post we examined the different firearms, and dis-
3ussed the merits and demerits of the Queen's arms, muzzle-
loaders, English and American revolving rifles, breech-loaders,
&c., all of which were represented in our party.

One old fellow looked quite annoyed when we told him we
Had killed three, and meant to get another. Every hunter we
met had killed from two to eight, so we began to multiply our
bona fide three to ten — six Stags, and four Does shot by acci-
dent.

One of the party, however, before we reached the hangar,
showed us a species of game no one had counted on being in
this quarter — a fine wild boar. We were afraid to add pig to
our list of ten deer, but by our arrival at the hangar most
everyone had seen some, if not shot at them, and one only just
missed a sow, with a litter of no end of young ones. We
laughed, as we passed along, to see an old fellow, wrapped up in
a coat and big woollen comforter, hugging a tree for shelter,
and peering anxiously to right and left for a deer, regardless of
Ihe rain falling in torrents. He told us the dogs had run
down a fawn, and that he was sure he had shot the doe, but
that she mysteriously disappeared in an impervious thicket.
We lett him still on the look-out.

We crossed a plain covered with wild guavas, which very
likely is the attraction for the wild pigs ; the one which was
shot was very fat, doubtless from feeding on this fruit.

We halted about a mile from the hangar, to give the piqueur
time to bring up the game, much of which was far off in the
woods. By about half-past four the men began to bring in the
deer, slung on poles, and by them it was all collected ; twelve
goodly stags, and nine does and fawns (the latter accidentally
shot), lay in evidence that there had been good shots and true.
One of our stags was missing, it having fallen a few feet
over another man's ground, and he refused to give it up. A
curious scene is presented at the disembowelling, which took
place when all were assembled.

The yelling of the dogs for their share of the spoil ; the
swearing and chattering of the Creole and Malabar men ; the
restive mules in the carts brought to carry home the game ; the
hunters claiming this or that stag ; everyone talking and ges-
ticulating at once, would have made a capital picture as ' The

Ch. XVIIL] wild boars. 219

Return from the Chase,' and I wished for my photographic
apparatus to catch so piquant a scene.

As soon as the carts were loaded we took up our line of
march for the hangar. Here the deer were cut up. It is cus-
tomary to give the head and horns to the person who claims
to have shot the stag, and the carcase is divided into quarters,
the proprietor presenting a piece to each guest. When all was
iinished we made our way back to our carriage, and, wet and
weary, were not sorry to exchange the . mud and rain of the
forest for a warm comfortable room and good dinner.

The wild boar I mentioned as having been shot by one of
our party belongs to the race called cochons marrons, sup-
posed to be descendants of domestic pigs escaped to the woods
at a very early period.

Not having come in contact with this animal myself except
on this occasion, I will quote an account of him, written by an
old colonist : —

' They occasionally attain great size, some males weighing so
much as four hundred pounds, and have tusks nine inches long,
measured outside the curve. They feed on worms, grubs, the
seeds of the ebony and guava, and whatever else they find in
their marauding excursions. They often do a great deal of
mischief in the plantations of Savanne, Black River, and Grrand
Port.

' Their fondness for guavas has caused the spread of these
trees, which are not indigenous. The wood is of unrivalled
excellence for shafts and poles of carriages.

' Great caution is required in hunting these cochons marrons.
They possess keen scent, and, when hunted, retreat to the fast-
nesses of woods and marshes, and it is very difficult to dislodge
them. If started, they lead dogs and men many a weary mile,
and often make them pay dearly for their sport when they
catch them.'

Since writing the above I have attended many chases, and
most on a different plan. Those given by Messrs. Currie,^
Autelme, and others, are on a very different plan. There is
generally a meeting at the hangar, where refreshments are pro-
vided for the chasseurs before proceeding to the woods, and on

* I have received three invitations from these gentlemen, but some unforeseen
contrariety always prevented ray acceptance of them.

220 A PLEASANT EVENING. [Ch. XVIII.

their return they sit down to a handsome dinner, where the
incidents of the day's sport are related over the best wines to
be procured in the colony. Sometimes the chasse lasts several
days, and beds are provided at the hangars for guests.

At Flacq a party of gentlemen formed themselves into a sort
of hunting club, and I have received many invitations. There
the members draw for their stands on the ground before pro-
ceeding to the chasse, and they draw for their venison when
the game is cut up.

During the season there is a chasse about once a fortnight,
and I have seen as many as thirty-six deer killed in a day.
After the day's sport was over, it being too far to return to Port
Louis, I joined some friends, and shall not easily forget the
hospitality I have received, nor the pleasant evenings spent, at
Richemare.

CHAP TEE XIX.

A HINDOO FESTIVAL.

Deities principally' worshipped at this Fete — Temple at Roche Bois — Dress of botli
Sexes — The Old Man and his Jugglery — Burning and Flogging — Priests and
Dancing Girls — Indian Musical Ideas — Walking through Fire — Sham Human
Sacrifice — January Fete — Crowds in Attendance — Gouhns— The Priest's Blessing
—Refreshments— Jewellers plying their Trade — Idols — Torture as a Means to
fulfil a Vow, or secure future Benefits — Rolling round the Temple — Breaking
Cocoa-nuts — The Tank — Ordeal by Diving — Sinnatambou— Precepts of the
Shastras in Reference to these degrading Rites.

In the Tamil month of Audi, corresponding in English witli
the month of August or September, the Madras and Calcutta
Indians hold a religious festival in honour of Doorga. Before
describing it, I will give a slight account of this goddess, and
of the two gods • Kartikeya and Ganesa, all of whom play a
prominent part in these revels. Doorga, also called Kallee or
Throwpathy, is the chief among the female deities, and indeed
the most potent and warlike member of the Hindoo pantheon.
The Grreeks worshipped Minerva, an armed and martial goddess,
but she was a meek and pacific maiden compared with the
spouse of the Indian Destroyer.

The wars waged by the latter, and the giants who fell be-
neath the might of Doorga's arm, form prominent themes in
the wild records of eastern mythology. Her original name
was Parvati, but hearing that a giant called Doorga had en-
slaved the gods, she resolved to destroy him. He is said to
have led into the field a hundred millions of chariots and one
hundred and twenty millions of elephants. In order to meet
this overwhelming force, she caused nine millions of warriors,
and a corresponding supply of weapons, to issue out of her own
substance. The contest, however, was ultimately decided by her
personal struggle with the giant, whose destruction she then

222 DOORGA. [Ch. XIX.

succeeded in effecting ; and in honour of this achievement, the
gods conferred upon their deliverer the name of the huge
enemy she had overcome.

Doorga has equalled Vishnu in the variety of shapes she has
multiplied herself into, and of names by which she has been
distinguished. The most remarkable being with whom she
has shared her identity is Call or Kalee, who, under her own
name, is a principal object of Hindoo veneration. Every
fierce characteristic in her original is in Kalee heightened and
carried to the extreme. She is black, with four arms, wearing-
two dead bodies as earrings, a necklace of skulls, and the hands
of several slaughtered giants round her waist as a girdle.
Her eyebrows and breast appear streaming with the blood of
monsters whom she has slain and devoured.

Horrible as this picture is, India has no divinity more
popular, nor one on whose shrine more lavish gifts are bestowed.
Not content, as the male deities usually are supposed to be,
with offerings of rice, fruit, milk, and vegetables, she must see
her altars flow with the blood of goats and other animals. The
ancient books contain directions for the performance even of
human sacrifices to this cruel goddess.

The bands of robbers that infest Bengal hold Kalee in
peculiar honour, looking specially to her for protection and
aid, and invoking her blessing on their unhallowed exploits by
dark incantations.

Kartikeya is the god of war. He rides on a peacock, has
six heads, and brandishes numerous weapons in his twelve
hands. He presents a striking specimen of the fantastic forms
in which Hindoo superstition invests its deities.

Granesa is a fat personage, with the head of an elephant.
But so important is this monstrosity, and so revered, that
nothing must be begun without an invocation to him, whether
it be an act of religious worship, opening a book, setting out
on a journey, or even sitting down to write a letter.

To go back to our festival. Being curious to see all I could
of this singular people, I attended one of these fetes held in
an open square at Eoche Bois, where there is a temple erected
to the goddess Doorga.

The whole of the rites form an inferior kind of Hindoo pan-
theistic worship. By their Indian laws the worshippers ought

Ch. XIX.] VOJVS. 223

to live entirely on rice, milk, fruit, and vegetables ; but (like
the Catholics) they can purchase a dispensation to eat fowl
and mutton ; the Calcutta natives eat pork, but rarely the
Madrassees.

Large sums of money are collected yearly. Almost every
prayer has its price, and nearly every attendance in the temple
must be accompanied by some offering. These people are in
the grossest ignorance ; few of them can read or write, and
never was any nation more priest-ridden. One reason for this
is that, though they believe Brama and the other gods and
goddesses would not quit their magnificent temples in India to
reside in these hut substitutes, yet they have implicit faith that
they are aware of all their actions through the priests ; so the
more conscientious a man is, the more he is in fear of them.

Their religious rules are read to them, and they are very re-
luctant to speak about their religion, in dread that the priests
may find it out.

Like all idolaters, they are extremely superstitious, and have
a firm belief in witchcraft, evil eye, charms and spells, which is
not to be shaken.

When very ill they generally make solemn vows to offer a
sacrifice to Doorga when well. The breaking of such a vow is
almost unknown, as they have not only the fear of the priest
before their eyes, but they devoutly believe a broken vow will be
followed by some dire punishment, such as blindness, leprosy, &c.^

' I once witnessed the fulfilling of a vow, A friend was very ill with fever, and an
old attached servant was in great grief, and vowed, that if his master should recover,
he would offer up a fine cock he had bought for the purpose and duly fattened. Be-
fore he was able to carry out his intentions, himself and all his family were stricken
well-nigh to death. He then made an additional vow, to sacrifice a goat. As soon
;is all were well again, he bought a fine animal, and began his preparations ; and
these show pretty clearly whence their origin.

The goat, like the Paschal lamb, must be a he-goat without blemish, and fed for
some days on the best food its owner could afford. As many guests were asked as
could eat it up, because, should a morsel be left on the premises, some dire calamity
would befall him or his. It was killed on soft ground, where the blood could sink
into the earth and leave no trace. It was then cut \\p ; a large piece was sent to
his master, who had been very kind to him when ill, and the rest was roasted.
Each guest had as much as he could eat, then his family, and lastly himself ; what
remained was given to the friends to take home. The cock was sacrificed later in
the day, and eaten. Nothing would induce him to use the bird when ill, and re-
quired soup himself. He said * No, he had vowed it when he thought his master
dying, and as God had heard his prayers, and saved him, the bird was sacred, and
he had rather die than touch it.'

224 OLD JUGGLER. [Ch. XIX.

The gods Kartikeya and Granesa are also worshipped, but
with fear and trembling : they hesitate even to pronounce their
sacred names.

The temple at Eoche Bois is about a hundred feet square,
with a large dome in the centre, and ornamented with minarets
painted in different colours. Workmen were still engaged on
the unfinished interior when I saw it.

Thousands of Indians were assembled on the grounds with
their yellow, pink, or scarlet robes wrapped in giaceful folds
around them. The men had massive gold or silver ear, toe.
and finger rings, anklets, &c. The women wore the same, with
the addition of large necklaces, often of heavy coins ; bracelets
half up their arms ; many of them with a blaze of jewellery in
their jet black hair, twisted into the curious one-sided knots
that seem de rigueuT in an Indian belle's toilet, and soaked in
gingeli or other oils.

Some were seated crossed-legged in groups, others were
amusing themselves singing, riding on wooden horses, swinging,
dancing, or with the music of a small drum called the tom-tom,
which is beaten at one end with a stick and at the other with
the fingers.

A large circle was formed in one part of the square, in the
centre of which was an old man entirely nude.

The old fellow's skin looked more like an alligator's than a
human integument. He was fully six feet high, of large frame
— all skin and bone, a most pitiable-looking object.

He built a fire between some large stones, and placed over it
a brass kettle, in which were pieces of bark that soon ignited
and emitted a pleasant odour like frankincense. Whilst the
bark was burning, he took a roll of cloth, about a foot and a
half long, and six inches broad, which he saturated in oil, and
lighted at one end by the flame of a lamp. When it was in a
blaze he placed it under his arm, and began dancing round the
ring, chanting some prayers in some Hindoo tongue. Though
his body was fearfully blistered, he continued for half an hour,
till the torch was extinguished.

He then approached the kettle, and stirring its contents, he
took out a handful of the ashes of the burnt bark, placed them
in the palm of his left hand, and walked round the circle, hold-
ing out a plate in the right.

Ch. XIX.] FLOGGING. 225

Men, women, and children pressed forward, and all placed a
copper coin in the plate, when each received a small quantity of
ashes, which they rubbed on their foreheads ; then holding up
the right hand to heaven, they repeated a prayer of thanks-
giving that they had been blest by so holy a man, raised the
left hand to the chin, and remained silent for about a minute.

The old man then took up a coil of rope braided in the form
of a serpent, and addressed a few words to the crowd.

A well-dressed Indian soon came forward, and the old fellow
muttered something, and then both set up a shout.

Taking one turn round the circle, he uncoiled his rope, and
began lashing the man over the head and face, bringing blood
at every blow. The victim (or happy man, as everyone else called
him) never winced, but stood motionless till the flagellation was
over. He was then marked with ashes and scarlet paint, and
retired, one of the heroes of the day. Others followed, till the
old man's strength was exhausted.

In the western part of the grounds were three houses, each
about 100 feet long by 25, made of bamboo, and covered with
palm-leaves. I entered one, and found it filled with a crowd
of people, all in the height of Indian fashion. The nose-rings
of some of the women were as large as saucers, which did not
at all inconvenience them, as they eat through them. On
one side sat three Indians, their heads shaved, and hideously
painted.

The centre one was beating a tom-tom, the one on the right
playing on a sort of clarionet, from which he produced three
notes, while the man's instrument on the left could only give
forth one melancholy squeak, and the three combined were not
unlike a bagpipe.^

Opposite them sat, cross-legged, several Indians. They were
dressed in European costume, of fine black cloth and white
cravats, with a curious white muslin cap with wings. Some were
Bramin priests, and wardens of the temple.

St. Cecilia certainly never deigned to visit India, and bless its inhabitants by
instilling a little music into their souls. All that I have' ever heard consists oi
monotonous chants of two or three notes, varied only by a rise or fall of the voice,
accompanied by beating time with the fingers on anything to hand, even a stick
on a piece of wood, when no drum was to be had ; and this they will keep up for
liours at night, to the great annoyance of their neighbours who have musical ears.

226 DANCING GIRLS. [Ch. XIX.

Three young women entered, bowed to the priests, and passed
to the back of the house, divided from the rest by a curtain. In
a few minutes they re-appeared, with a small white mark in the
centre of the forehead, and the parting of the hair painted
scarlet. After salaaming all round, they began dancing and
singing, the music going on vigorously all the time. They
kept it up till tired out, and then disappeared behind the screen
again. ^

T intended visiting the other houses, but my attention was
attracted by a crowd at the entrance.

It was caused by a young man about twenty years old,
lying quite nude on the ground. On enquiry I found that he
had been very sick and had made a vow that if he survived he
would roll round the temple ; and he was now about to fulfil it.

As he rolled along his wife went before him to clear away any
chips or stones that might hurt him. He appeared in the last
stage of consumption, and when he had performed the half of
his task he fainted.

Buckets of water were dashed over him, and he was restored
to consciousness, the crowd urging and encouraging him. He
finished the circle of the temple, and then fainted again.

Four men removed him to the shade of a tamarind tree,
where the women combed the dirt out of his long hair and
washed his body. He was still speechless when I left, and I
felt certain he could not long survive his task.

In the centre house six or eight drums and clarionets were
making such a horrid din, the men hooting and howling at the
top of their voices, that I feared to enter such a pandemonium
lest I should be summarily ejected, or, still worse, kept in, when
I should assuredly have been deaf in two minutes. Whilst I
was looking about me, a rush was made to the centre of the
grounds, where a large crowd soon assembled. Piles of wood
were burning, which in about an hour became a bed of
live embers. Two nude men, having long-handled rakes, were

* These women are set apart for dancing at these religious fetes from childhood.
They do not reside here, but come from India in time for the festival. They are
a sort of nuns, and are compelled to lead a life of celibacy, apart from everyone,
and eat only fruit, milk, and vegetables. They are kept at the public expense, and
three different ones are sent every year, free passage being given them. Should
any break their vows of celibacy, they are expelled the temple with the greatest
ignominy, and their houses are razed to the ground.

Cji. XIX.] RUNNING UPON FIRE. 227

employed in getting out the unburn t pieces of wood, and distribu-
ting the embers over a square of about twenty-five feet. An
excavation was made on one side about a foot deep and six
square, in close proximity to the bed of embers, and filled with
water. During this raking, several people were employed
dashing water over the men to prevent their being scorched by
the heat, which was almost intolerable even where I stood.

Everything being pronounced ready by the priest who
superintended the whole, music was heard in the distance, and
a procession moved along the grassy plain, preceded by men
bearing on their shoulders a small platform, on which was an
image dressed in Indian costume, loaded with jewellery. They
came on in silence, and halted near the burning mass. Presently
another similar procession advanced from the opposite side,
and faced the first. At a given sigTial, an old man, with only a
cloth round his loins, bearing a child in his arms, stepped into
the square, and walked unflinchingly across the glowing bed
of embers. Three young men followed, and then a dozen rushed
in and ran across, stopping for a moment to cool their feet in
the trench filled with water. The contortions, screeching, and
yelling of these latter were terrible, and I turned away sick at
heart from the sight. ^ This part of the rites is called tJiinnery^
or running upon fire.

It seemed to me literally the old worship of Moloch revived,

' Strange tx) say, the Indians persist they do not get burnt. For at least a
month previously they undergo severe fasts, taking little except rice and milk ; do
not even touch grease or animal food ; pray incessantly, get the priest's blessing,
and then walk fearlessly over the burning embers. They say it is only those who
have eaten forbidden food (especially salt fish), got drunk, or committed some un-
repented sin, who get burnt.

They have each to pay four or five dollars for the privilege of passing over the
fire. My domestic was quite grieved he could not be one of the performers ;
having my dinner to cook every day, of course he was unfitted to be one. It must,
however, be remarked that the men who take part in such monstrous atrocities are
but low-caste men.

An educated Hindoo gentleman, now on a business visit to this colony, wrote on
this very subject in an article in the Commercial Gazette as follows : —

' Can it be said that it is no reproach upon the intelligence of the Indian public?
Mr. Editor, to speak the truth, this kind of worship and service to the Hindoo
deities is not enjoined in our own Vedas; but these blinded votaries, from a
mistaken idea of invoking by dark incantations the protection and aid of the cruel
goddess to bless their exploits of robbery, &c., subject themselves to the perform-
ance of inhuman deeds.'

228 A CURIOUS RITE. [Ch. XIX,

and anything more heathenish and devilish I cannot imagine.
I then entered the house I had previously passed by, as it
appeared to be a great centre of attraction. On one side of it
stood a curiously-painted wooden horse, and in the centre was
a large block of wood, near which lay a copper dish and a
formidable carving-knife. Soon after I entered the usual row
of tom-toms began, with a queer sort of singing, and after
every sixteen words there was a loud shout from all assembled.
After a few minutes four men entered, bearing in something-
covered with a white cloth, which they laid on the floor.

Presently one end of it was raised, when, lo and behold ! a
man's head lay on the block. Two men danced and chanted a
sort of funeral lament round the body, the instruments wailing
out horrible discords ; one of them brandished the knife, and at
one blow severed the head from the body, which rolled on the
floor, the blood flowing into the basin.

This was a sacrifice to Doorga. Probably in former times it
was a real victim offered up — a sort of judicial sacrifice, as far as
I could make out ; now they make a very clever imitation of
a human being, and go through the customary ceremonies.

In 1868, on account of the fever raging amongst the Indians,
they were obliged to postpone their January fete. It was held
in September, and as it was to be on a larger scale than ordi-
nary I determined to be present at it.

This festival had been prepared for above a month previously.
The priests had gone round everywhere, and each Indian that
promised to attend was marked on the forehead with ashes, and
paid a small coin. Thus not only were large sums collected,
but a full attendance was insured, as none dared to break their
promise to a priest. Every night, for a week before the 14th,
small gouhns had been carried about, and sundry amusements
going on, but on that day began the serious work. Crowds
gathered from all parts of the island. Every railway train was
full to overflowing, and very many more would have been too
if the railway people had only had the bright idea of running
an extra train or two on the 14th and 15th, and thus taking
advantage of the great influx of passengers.

It was a sight to see when the overloaded carriages dis-
charged their living freight, dressed in all the finery procurable
for love, money, or credit, in the bright hues dear to Indian

Ch. XIX.] GOUHNS. 229

tastes, and decked with gold, silver, and precious stones in
lavish abundance.

Hundreds could not be accommodated by rail, and those were
lucky who could get carriole or carriage, for which they would
pay any price, to get to Terre Rouge.

The priests have collected enough money to purchase about
four acres of ground just off the main road leading to the
arsenal. There they have erected several chapels and other
buildings, suitable for their particular worship — if such a mass
of superstition and idolatry can be called worship.

The principal part of the first day's proceeding was the fire-
walking, previously described, but as I did not care for a
repetition of such a scene, I went the second day.

It was with difficulty I could procure a conveyance to Terre
Rouge, and no easy matter when there to make my Avay through
the dense crowds ; though I must say, however thickly congre-
gated Indians may be, they will always make way for a white
man, and generally with politeness.

My attention was first attracted by a number of very large
gouhns, fantastically painted and gilded, mounted on huge
wooden wheels, with ropes attached to the axles, so that they
might be moved forward by the devotees.

On entering the grounds is a chapel, containing the image
of some god made of iron, about three feet high, smeared with
cocoa-nut oil and dirt, and mounted on a small altar.

At its side sat a villainous-looking priest, holding out a small
tin box to all comers for coin, myself included. Two little dishes
lay before him, filled respectively with powdered saffron and
wood ashes. Everyone who gave a piece of money received a
little of each powder, with which they marked their faces,
{Bien entendu, I declined the favour.)

On both sides the path leading to the chapel were booths
filled with cakes and sweets, dear to an Indian's, but very suspi-
cious to an Englishman's palate.

Lemonade,cocoa-water, and cigar vendors did a good business ;
and in another booth, containing an immense variety of orna-
ments, the three salesmen appeared to be doing a thriving
trade.

I saw as many as twenty bracelets placed on a young woman's
arms, and a dozen small rings on a child's, still at the breast.

230 • TORTURE. [Ch. XIX.

The men seemed to be quick, sharp fellows ; they would take
the measure of the arm or toe, cut the bracelet or ring of metal,
fit it in a few minutes and solder it on, not to be removed till
it sinks into the flesh as the arm enlarges.

At the entrance of this booth sat a group of men striking at
each other with stout sticks, about three feet long. They
managed to do this so as to let the blows fall in time to a sort
of monotonous chant they were droning out.

1 passed on to the main chapel, a building about fifty feet
long, three sides of which were open. A small iron god stood
at the entrance on a sort of altar decorated with flowers, and
attended by a priest, who had also his collecting-box. Ten feet
behind the first was a large and very ugly idol, partially covered
with a piece of cotton cloth, an old broken iron lamp at its
side, and guarded by a priest. There was a third that appeared
to be the god actually worshipped — a doll-like image dressed
in the Malabar costume, with a silk jacket and langouti,
and jewels hung wherever it was possible to hang them. A
large crowd of half-nude men and women were near it ; dim
oil lamps lighted it, and two hideously daubed Indians waited
on it.

To enter these sacred precincts I was obliged to take ofif my
shoes, and by thus respecting their prejudices I was assured a
free access everywhere, and all were anxious to show me any-
thing I wanted to see.

Just as I entered, a noisy flourish of tom-toms announced the
arrival of a procession headed by a priest, and immediately
behind him came the candidates for the honour of being
tortured. They had on only the waistcloth, and each held at
arm's length wires as large as a goose quill, four feet long, one
end sharply pointed. On they came, and halted in front of the
image in centre of the building.

There the wires were received by the priests and blessed, and
they were then given to an attendant. A small stiletto was
passed to another, with directions how to use it.

The first who approached was a well-built muscular man, and
the stiletto was thrust through his flesh under both arms, about
four inches below the armpits, then immediately withdrawn,
and the wires inserted in the puncture. From one to three
were placed under each arm, and, to drown the moans of the

Ch. XIX.] FAN A TICISM. 23 1

victims of an idolatry fit only for the darkest ages of the world,
a crowd of spectators set up a howl.

At the same time there were others with skewers thrust
through their cheeks, tongues, and lips, and one poor wretch
had a sharp wire as thick as a large pin inserted in the fore-
head, and passed through the face downwards till it came out
at the chin.

After all had been operated on they left the chapel, accom-
panied by the priests and men flourishing sticks round them.
They appeared to suffer a good deal as they kept turning the
wires in the wounds, in spite of the gangh and other intoxica-
ting drugs given to deaden pain. Kettle-drums were then added
to the other instruments, and with their din and the people's
shouting and yelling, it was perfectly diabolical.

The poor tortured creatures began dancing and singing a
sort of triumphant song, and advanced towards the open space
at the entrance to the grounds, the men with sticks occasionally
making feints to strike them over the head. Two men carried
a copper dish containing some yellow wash, which they fre-
quently applied to the wounds. This lasted over an hour, when
all returned to the chapel, the wires were withdrawn, and after
the wounds were dressed they bathed in water blessed by the
priests, and their performance ended.

It is marvellous what fanaticism will enable its slaves to en-
dure. These men paid two dollars for each wire thrust through
them, besides other fees to the gods and priests,

I learnt afterwards that all these men had made vows the
preceding year. Two who were married, and had no children,
vowed a sacrifice if they were blest with one before the next
festival, and the others were vows made during the fever time.^

' These frightful practices are endured annually to satisfy the cravings of the
goddess Yellamah alias Throwpathy, who is represented to have tiger's teeth,
cat's eyes, a dog's tongue, and a hideous countenance.

It is sensibly asked by one of themselves, * Cannot this waste of time be pre-
vented ? Can this abuse of human energy not be checked ? Cannot the Hindu
mind be educated so as to run in a better channel ? Cannot this festival be turned
from dissipation of the lowest grade into a fountain of pleasure and instruction ?'
He says also, ' The cruel practices alluded to are not worthy of man, and especially
of the Mauritian Christian Grovernment, which seems to countenance them, although
such monstrous festivals have been nearly put down even in the superstitious land
of India.'

R

232 RITES. [Ch. XIX.

Occasionally there is the hook suspension, hut it costs twenty-
five dollars, besides exacting rigid fasts and penances.

My own domestic, though still a young man, said he had
undergone it three times in India, and that if he had the money
he would willingly do it again ; only, he added, ' They did not
know how do it properly here.'

In front of one of these images were numerous small dishes
filled with rice, bananas, cocoa-nut and yellow-powder, all of
which had been long before consecrated, and, most important
of all, the inevitable money-box.

The candidate for the favour of the god presents himself
kneeling, and holding out his joined hands. These the priest
fill with rice, on which he lays a banana and piece of cocoa-nut,
and marks him on the face with the powder. A piece of money
is then tied with a string on the wrist, not to be taken off till the
festival is over, when both string and money must be religiously
kept, as they form a charm against all influences, human or
diabolical.

The rice is held for a few minutes, and if the man's conscience
does not accuse him of any sin since he was marked for the fete,
it remains good ; but if any unlucky peccadillo, such as tasting
salt fish, or other forbidden dainty, returns to his memory, woe
betide him : the rice withers in his hand, the mark is taken
from his forehead, and dire will be his punishment.

If all is well, the rice is returned, with, of course, the cus-
tomary obolus to the god {i.e. priest). This ends the ceremony,
and the recipient of divine favour walks away with a light heart
under the influence of the priestly absolution, though I do not
know for how long a time it will hold good.

Just behind the chapel is a tank about twenty feet square,
and the same in depth, containing four or five feet of water.

A flight of stone steps led down to it, and wreaths of flowers
floated on the surface, and men and women were bathing in the
filthy liquid, greasy from the emanations of their bodies, covered
with different oils.

Having taken their bath, they prepared an offering to present
to the iron god. Grroups of men and women were seated on
the steps, engaged in mixing flour in small copper pans with
the consecrated water, and, beating up bananas with it, formed

Ch. XIX.] DIVING ORDEAL. 233

a sort of cream. Each person, selecting two attendants, took
his or her offering, and, wet and shivering, went to the door of
the temple, and placed a shilling in the box ; then, prostrate
before the priest, received a small green spray from the idol's
Qeck. Afterwards they all laid down, and clenching their hands,
began rolling round the chapel in the dirt. The kettle-drums
beat loudly, and they rolled till quite exhausted, the women
sometimes fainting. The latter frequently sweep the ground
with extended arms, rise and make one step, then down again,
till the whole circuit of the chapel is completed. As many as
fifty people were rolling at one time, all smothered in dust, as
may well be imagined.

After this performance a priest took his stand behind the
chapel, near a large pile of cocoa-nuts. One by one the specta-
tors go up to him for a nut, which he cracks ; and if the shell
happen to break crookedly, it is rejected as a sign that the man
or woman has sinned during the festival, and the culprit is ex-
pelled ; if, on the contrary, it break evenly, the applicant gets
half, and deposits threepence in the other moiety as the priest's
perquisite. When all are served, the broken bits are flung
amongst the crowd, when a regular scramble takes place for the
prizes. It is a most ridiculous scene, as they lie struggling over
each other, as eager and excited as a band of children among
whom a handful of nuts has been thrown. Outside the temple
were three gouhns, about fifteen feet high, mounted on wheels,
and containing seats. In the evening a god was placed in
each, and a priest got in, and was dragged about, principally
by children.

The day's proceedings terminate a sort of Lenten fast, and at
sundown hearty dinners were being eaten in all directions.
About ten o'clock at night the steps to the tank are lit up by
cocoa-nut oil lamps, and a gouhn is placed in a little boat on
the water, with the representative of Bramah in it.

A sort of paste is prepared, and any one who likes can throw
a bit in. If he is a good man, Bramah permits the priest who
dives for it to find it ; but if a sinner, it is hidden for ever
from human eyes, and the man is to be shunned. This water
ordeal often lasts till past midnight.

The whole of this festival, and all connected with the Hindoo

234 THE SHASTRAS. [Ch. XIX.

religion, is regulated by an old man called Sinnatambou. '
All these scenes I witnessed within a mile or two of Port Louis ;
and the thought struck me that, instead of sending away all
the missionaries from Mauritius to Madagascar, it would be
better if they concentrated their forces against the hydra-headed
idolatry and superstition rife over the island.^

' This man is a Hindoo of weaver caste, and is said to encourage these festivals,
not from any regard to the deity or religion (in which he is no adept), but from
desire for filthy lucre. He pockets the annual income ; and as most of the mana-
gers of the temple are in some way or other under obligations to him, they dare
not compel him to render an account to the public.

As usual amongst Indians, even this small community is not devoid of partisan-
ship. At one time the most influential man was Mylapoor Moonisamy, who is
now the head of the opposition party to Sinnatambou, and president of a small
temple on the Nicolay road, dedicated to Siva,

2 Since writing this chapter, I have been informed that these degrading rites and
cruelties are not only disallowed by the high-caste Hindus, but that they are posi-
tively contrary to the precepts of the Shastras, in which it is stated that * all those
ignorant persons who regard as Grod an image of earth, metal, stone, or wood,
subject themselves to bodily misery, and can never obtain final deliverance.' In
the Bhagwat Gita it is also written, that ' He who worships matter becomes him-
self matter {i.e. a blockhead).' So far from approving such squandering of large
sums of money yearly (sufficient, as a Hindu told me, to put every Indian child to
a national school), there is a strong feeling against it, and a wish that so much
zeal could be utilised to better purposes.

It is supposed that a thousand dollars were expended in fees alone this year
(1870) for undergoing different tortures. Seventy-one victims passed through the
fire, each of whom had to pay $1 50c. for the privilege, besides priests' fees.

CHAPTER XX.

ACBOSS COUNTRY TO THE DYA-MAMOU AJSD OTHER FALLS.

Advice to Stay-at-homes — Invitation — Leaving the City — Into the Woods to
Fresanges — Kavenalas — Dhoodie — Night and Morning — Eain no Effect on our
Spirits — Contrast of Colour in Woods — Our Guide and Woodsmen — Ferns —
Banks of the Eivi^re du Poste — Grand Kiver, S.E. — The Dya-Mamou — The
Caves — Cascade of Eoche Platte — Back into the Woods — A Path for us, Death
to the Shrubs and Creepers — Carias — Wasps' Nests — Swallows' Cave — A Skull
— Story of Slave Woman — The Eeturn — Incredulity of Friends.

Who is there living in the Island of Mauritius that is fond of
beautiful scenery, and yet has never visited the picturesque and
romantic falls of Dya-Mamou, in the district of Grrand Eiver,
SE. ? If there is such an unfortunate individual, let me
advise him to pack up his knapsack and be off ' over the hills
and far away ' the first holiday he can get.

These falls (like other lovely things I could name) are not to
be lightly attained, but require infinite patience and persever-
ance before the prize is gained. Dense pathless forests must be
traversed, and the tourist will find a difficulty in making his
way without a guide.

In the month of June an invitation was given me to join a
party of gentlemen all eager for, and equal to, a tramp across
country to visit some part of the Mauritian forests to which
they and myself were strangers, and also to see the famed Dya-
Mamou and other falls in the neighbourhood ; caverns, and
many other curios that came in our way.

Arrangements were made to leave Port Louis by the 1.45
train, and go to a private station between Curepipe and Cluny,
and permission had been granted our party to occupy a hangar
about four miles distant from it.

All assembled at the station as agreed on, in spite of wind
and weather (for it had rained all day), and a still falling

236 DEPARTURE. [Ch. XX.

barometer. We arrived at 4 a.m. at the small station, servants,
baggage, all right, for we had taken the precaution of having
food enough for two days, and a change of clothes.

We set off in high spirits, and soon met a servant of the owner
of the forest, a guardian I presume, who led us into a narrow
path which carried us directly into the woods. This man lived
in a little thatched cottage, standing in an open space of about
three acres, and close round about it were deer with their fawns
feeding.

T]iey did not seem at all alarmed at our presence ; the stags
merely tossed up their an tiered heads and snuffed the breeze as
we passed by and left the graceful animals to enjoy the sweet
tender grass and scented herbs which were here in abundance.

The rain poured, and we had several streams to cross before we
came to the hangar of Fresanges.

We only stopped here a few minutes, and then pushed on to
Dhoodie, another hangar, where we intended to pass the night.
Our servants had gone on with the baggage, and it took us three-
quarters of an hour's hard walking through a most intricate
forest before we reached the hangar. Just before entering the
forest we crossed a plain covered with the Eavenala or Traveller's-
trees as far as we could see. They stood in groups of eight or
ten, many trunks springing from the same roots. I counted
twenty-four full-grown trunks of about twenty-five feet in height,
all appearing to shoot from the same root-stock.

This singular tree grows to great perfection here, seeming to
rejoice in the swampy land. It struck me as one of the most
curious vegetable sights I had ever seen. On a little elevation
on the south side of the plain was a row of them, as even as if
planted by hand, nearly all of the same height ; and they stood
like a file of giants, their dull green spiked leafage swaying
with every breeze, and producing a peculiar creaking rustling
sound.

Although we were wet through by the rain, we could not
refrain from halting to gaze on this wild bit of tropical scenery.
Just beyond this grove was another entirely of dark jamrose,
in full flower, filling the heavy air with soft fragrance. I con-
tinually lagged behind, admiring everything, and was at last
obliged to push on briskly to join my companions, whose
patience I must have tried pretty severely on this journey.

Ch. XX.] THE HANGAR. lyj

A change of clothes, and a supper to which all brought good
appetites, made us forget the discomforts of the rain, and we
passed a pleasant hour in chatting over our recent walk and
laying our plans for the morrow. Our sleeping-room was about
40 feet in length, on one side of which a platform is built three
feet high, that we covered with soft dried grass, over which we
spread our blankets, and lay down ' to sleep, perchance to
dream.' I've no doubt my younger comrades may have dreamt
of ' the sweet wee wife and tiny bairns ' at home, but I
know that a few minutes after my head lay on my pillow (made
of a rolled-up overcoat) I slept far too soundly for dreams.

At daylight we were up and away to the river near by for a
bath, and then back for cigar and coffee.

I sauntered about, inspecting the premises whilst inhaling the
fragrant weed. There were six or seven houses at the hangar,
all of native timber and thatched with vacoa leaves ; one is the
salle-a-manger, capable of containing tables for a large party of
hunters ; our sleeping-room, where at least forty persons could
be accommodated ; a kitchen and spare rooms for servants. These
buildings are situated on a little bend of the Riviere du Bois,
and are surrounded by trees, which grow to the water's edge.

Still the rain fell, and it looked gloomy and threatening, and
a consultation was held as to what course to pursue. We had
come to see the Falls, and nothing short of an earthquake or
deluge should stop us, was the first resolution passed, nem. con.
Our servants looked downcast and shrugged their shoulders, and
talked of impossibilities ; so we soon settled that question by
deciding on sending them back to the hangar at Fresanges with
our baggage, and gave themi instructions to wait our return there.

By seven o'clock we started with our guide, fording the Ri-
viere du Bois, just at the back of the hangar, and passed along a
narrow footpath, overgrown with wild raspberiies and ferns, into
the depth of the forest. All along we saw tracks of the wild
boar and deer, which abound in this vicinity, that lead into parts
of the woods most difficult of access to the hunter. We dis-
turbed numbers of the Myna-birds, and their shrill chattering
whistle as they flew over our heads enlivened the silent forest.
A few of the Coq de Bois were seen, and appeared very tame.

The continued rain had no efifect on our spirits, and one of
our party cheered us the whole route with bursts of song, now

238 NATURAL BEAUTY. [Ch. XX.

a ballad, now a snatch from an opera ; and the more the diffi-
culties of our path, the more the woods resounded witli his
voice. I, as usual, was always in the rear, clutching a moss
here or lichen there, and, again, a root of a fern : the former
were easily detached from trees and stones on account of the
wet. We frequently encountered trunks of large trees prostrate
in our path, covered with green mosses, and the eye would be
instantly attracted by little groups of the Eridia auricula
Judce, or Judas' ears, which when wet are of the brightest
scarlet. The contrast of colour is charming in these woods ; the
varied greens of the ferns, the yellow Sphagnums, the neutral
tints of the lichens, the brown or moss-covered trunks, are inex-
pressibly beautiful to me. I often think what a great affliction
it must be to those who have what is called ' colour blindness, '
though to them who have never had the pleasure of a keen per-
ception of colours it may not be so great a deprivation as to
those who have.

Seeing me always in the rear, 'our friend lingers' I heard
one say to the other, but I was neither tired nor deficient in a
tramp. No ! but every sense was absorbed in the surroundings.
I was feasting on the scene and feeling, as I ever do when out
in the wild, that this is truly a joy-giving world in which we
live. Miserable mortals that we are, grubbing everlastingly
after the ' almighty dollar,' and neglecting almost everything
great and good, passing on and off this busy stage without en-
joying, scarcely conscious of the beauty created expressly ' to
give delight to man,' and to elevate and prepare him for a still
brighter sphere.

My companions were all men of education and refinement,
and appreciated everything as much as I did ; but they were far
wiser, for being wet and uncomfortable, they were hurrying
along to our first halting-place, which we reached after passing
through another grove of Eavenalas. The guardian of the
place seemed to have expected us, for he came out to meet us.
and offered his services.

This place much resembles the last, with the exception of
the vacoa-thatched huts being smaller. The frame of a large
hangar lay on the ground, and would soon be ready to replace
the old one. A good many Malabars lived here, and there was
a large pond, or basin, as they call it, filled with Grourami, so

Ch. XX.] NATURAL BEAUTY. 239

that fine fresh fish can be had at short notice. The trees and
underbrush had been cleared away, and a very pretty view was
had westward. Our refreshment got through, we agreed to
proceed directly to the Falls, now about four miles distant.

They reckon distance by time, so they said it was about an
hour's walk hence. The guardian, who was a very polite French
Creole, set off with us, taking along with him several of his men.
One strong stout Malabar preceded us with a sharp cleaver, to
cut away the impediments from our path.

No sooner were we back in the forest than I was soon behind
again. That fine fern the Langue de boeuf (Aspidium nidus)
was growing on the top of an old giant, the largest tree I have
seen here, with the exception of the Boabab. The tree was
dead, and had been broken off about fifteen feet from the collum ;
it was covered completely with creepers, ferns and mosses, and
crowned with this elegant fern. The fronds were many of
them ten inches wide and five feet long, so green and luxuriant,
and so incorporated in the old trunk, as to appear to be the
leaves of the tree itself. A little farther on we came to a pro-
fusion of the Gallipteris prolifera, one of the finest of its family.
This species rapidly propagates by throwing off shoots at the
joints of the pinnae on the midrib, and when the small leaves
appear on the shoots, they drop off and grow.

We soon reached the Riviere du Poste, which was somewhat
swollen, but we forded it without much difficulty. As we
crossed over to the right bank, we all exclaimed on beholding
the beauty it presented. The bank shelved, and tier on tier of
the lovely Ochropteris pallens rose one above the other, and
over them the jamroses spread their branches till they nearly
touched the water.

Intertwined in all directions was a species of purple convolvulus
in full flower. It was a perfect picture : the dark leaves of the
climber, and purple blossoms, the very pale greens of the ferns,
the primrose tint of the jamrosa-flowers in their dark setting —
the pen fails to depict it : 'we should need colours and words
that are unknown to man. ' Our guide was constantly calling-
attention to different plants medicinally used by the Creoles.
He showed me one that he said would produce death in a short
space of time after the juice had been taken into the system.
I did not know its name, but found it a species of Euphorbia.

240 GRAND RIVER. [Ch. XX.

He said if a branch was bruised, and thrown into a pond, it
would destroy the fish. He especially pointed out one that
would cure a person that was addicted to the use of ardent
spirits (pity it is not generally known), with many other won-
derful things, to all of which we listened with becoming at-
tention.

We soon began to hear the noise of falling water, and om-
guide told us to be careful, as we were on the banks of the
Grrand Eiver, SE., just below the falls, and that the ravine was
very steep. The woods hereabouts were more dense than ever,
and it was with difficulty we could make our way. Our sapper
and miner, who preceded us, slashed away right and left ; and,
advancing in single file, in about half an hour we reached
the bottom, without any casualty except a few bruises and
tumbles.

Then what a view opened out to us ! The Dya-Mamou Falls,
in all their magnificence, were before us. What a lovely ro-
mantic spot ! I was fascinated, spell-bound ! We crossed the
river by jumping from rock to rock, till we reached an elevated
position among huge boulders and rocks that lay in the wildest
confusion, some in heaps just as they were tumbled headlong
from the heights above. Our post was somewhat perilous, for
the rocks were slippery, and facing us was a steep basaltic cliff
looking down into a deep basin much disturbed from the vo-
lume of water passing through it, and a few yards off was the
roaring cataract. On account of the previous day's rains (or
perhaps in honour of our visit) there was a much larger body
of water than usual : it foamed and hissed over the perpendi-
cular basaltic wall of rock, and then thundered into the abyss
below with terrific sublimity. These falls are about one hun-
dred feet high, and I should say the sheet of water was fully
fifty feet wide. The sides of the ravine just below the falls are
bold, covered with immense detached masses of rocks, very diffi-
cult to clamber over. There is a pretty little cascade a few
yards off in the river, but its beauty is lost in the magnificence
of the Dya-Mamou Falls, which in my opinion are the finest in
the island.

The sounding cataract
Haunted me like a passion : the tall rock,
The mountain, and the deep and gloomy wood,
Their colours and their forms, were then to me

Ch. XX.] A HERMIT SLA VE. 241

An appetite ; a feeling and a love
That had no need of a remoter charm,
By thought supplied, nor any interest
Unborrowed from the eye.

We feasted our eyes on the scene for some time ; and our next
move was to the caves on the left bank of the river, near the
front of the falls. We had to make our way over the boulders
at the edge of the river, and a false step would have plunged us
into an involuntary bath ; not that it could have made much
difference in the condition of any of the party, for we had been
' dem'd moist unpleasant bodies ' the whole day.

We reached this curious place, and there our guide told us
the old story of a slave having made it his home for (some
say) ten years. His retreat had been sought in vain, till smoke
was discovered issuing from the cave, which led to his cap-
ture.

This cave is about twelve feet wide and twenty high, and
appears to have been formed by a huge detached rock sliding
out from the original formation to a distance of about twenty
feet, and another much larger lessened above, which slid over
the opening, forming a complete roof to the cave. Numerous
ferns and creepers grew in the interstices of the rocks ; and I
made up my mind, if opportunity occurred, to pass a few days
in this neighbourhood, making this cave the base of my
operations.

Of course we heard the usual account of the monster eels in the
basin, and which I believe is told of every river and pond in
the island. I am aware there are large eels, having been at
the death of one weighing forty-five pounds ; but this is rare, and
then they never attack man. After inspecting the cave, we
ascended the ravine by a path hewn out of the bushes for us,
and in a few minutes were again on the brink of the falls. It
was a grand scene : the foaming, roaring waters below encircling
a pretty little island studded with trees and shrubs ; the deep
black water in the back ground ; rocks piled fantastically one
on the other ; large clumps of luxuriant ferns growing from the
interstices ; the sides of the ravine covered with trees, and a
lofty mountain rearing its stately head in the distance. The
long tortuous course of the river could be distinctly traced.
Near the falls it is about two hundred yards wide, and very

242 ROCHE PLATTE, [Ch. XX.

shallow ; the bed filled with rocks and stones, over which the
water rushed, forming rapids like miniature Niagaras.

Just above the falls, on a little flat formed of vegetable
debris, I found the Erica growing, but not in flower ; and groups
of the finest bamboos I ever saw were there.

After enjoying the scene to the utmost, we visited anothei
pretty little cascade called Eoche Platte, about twenty feet in
height, with an unbroken sheet of water passing over a perfectly
flat table-rock into a basin below. We did not remain long
here, but passed into the forest, which grew to the river's bank,
our sapper still preceding us and spreading death and destruc-
tion around. With his sharp cleaver, which was about four feet
long, he laid low hundreds of pretty shrubs and young trees ;
and many a delicate creeper was cut down and lay withering
in his path that had so lately revelled in luxuriant grace.

I noticed many dead and dried trunks of large trees, with
huge nests of the Caria, or white ant, surrounding them. These
nests look like a great mass of cinders, and when broken are
found honeycombed all through.

This species of white ant is very destructive in a forest,
especially to vacoas, but I believe they generally attack trees
in a sickly condition. The first signs of decay are the appear-
ance of a fungus, which is caused by gases emanating from
decomposed vegetable matter in the tree. Then the Caria is
sure to follow, and the doom of the tree is sealed. They say
portions of these nests are gathered by the Creoles, and prepared
in some way as a decoction good for sore throats.

The servant to whom I had entrusted my fern treasures
suddenly threw them all down, and disappeared in the thicket.
I began to gather them up myself, somewhat vexed, when
presently he emerged bearing a large wasps' nest full of young.
He had not deserted me, but having espied the nest he had
gone after it ; and though the wasps had stung him, he carried
off his prize. I was curious to know its use, for he took such
particular care of it on the way back. The guide told me the
Creoles esteemed them greatly, and broiled them over a quick
fire, and then with a sharp-pointed stick picked out the young
wasps and ate them ! 'Delicious ! sir, delicious!' he said ; ' I shall
try to get the next for myself, as I am very fond of them.'
Well, white-ant tea and young broiled wasps may be good for

Ch. XX.] SWALLOWS' CAVE. 243

those who like them — chacun a son gout — but I would rather
be excused.

Three-quarters of an hour's hard tramp over streams of
water and boggy ground brought us to within a hundred feel
of another waterfall, the ' Cascade des Hirondelles.' It is very
picturesque, but has not so large a body of water as the Dya-
iMamou.

On the left bank of the river is a considerable-sized cave
called the ' Swallows' Cave,' from those birds being supposed to
build there in vast numbers ; but I could not find one nest. It
is about fifty feet deep and eighteen or twenty feet high. It
has been formed by the freshets of the river having washed out
the layers of tufa between the beds of lava. The names of
numerous visitors were cut in the rocks. After seeing all that
there was to be seen, we clambered up to take another look at
the cascade. In the little pools I got, for the first time in
Mauritius, that singular water-plant the Hydrodicyton utricu-
latum, whose delicate structure resembles a net, every mesh
being precisely alike ; also some specimens of Chara and two or
three of the Potanfiogeton utriculatum, or Tuttans,

After feasting our eyes on the scene a short time, we com-
menced the ascent of the ravine, which is steep there, and we
heard the cries and chattering of monkeys. They frequently
congregate in hundreds, and if disturbed will sometimes attack
the intruder. We found the ground often covered with badanier
nuts they had thrown down. Our guide told us this forest was
formerly infested by maroon slaves, who committed great
depredations on the surrounding plantations, driving off cattle,
robbing the poultry-yards, and even white women had been
taken into captivity by them. He pointed out a lonely spot
where his grandfather was once hunting, when he saw a desperate
maroon up in a tree, and as he passed near the slave threw down
a little wooden image on to the rock at his feet. No notice
being taken of this the man concluded that, though armed, the
intruder was not after him, so came down. Many a tale of
misery and woe could, doubtless, be told of this forest, where
the caves and numerous hiding-places gave shelter to the run-
away slaves, who, according to most writers, were horribly treated
by some of the planters.

I managed to get some fine specimens of the following ferns

244 A SKULL. [Ch. XX.

on our way back to the hangar : the Odontosoria tenuifolia,
Gleichenia dichotoma, Humata pwdata, Lonchitis pubescens^
Aspleniums, Trichomanes, and a host of others.

The soil about this region is of a reddish colour, and every-
thing grows luxuriantly, from the constant showers. I noticed
a curious geological formation cropping out in some parts of
the forest, which was of bright red, a little harder than pipe-
clay, and, contrasting with the bright-leaved shrubs, had a
singular appearance. As I was searching after ferns I came
upon part of a human skull. It was much decomposed, and
had probably been for years exposed to the elements.

From the interstices grew a little white liane — life in death ;
and, after examining it, I laid it carefully back. I looked about,
but could not find the other parts. It was a negro's skull, as
their formation is unmistakable. ' Poor fellow,' I thought ;
' you might have been a slave driven by your cruel master to
this stronghold, there to die of starvation, and perhaps on this
very spot welcomed death as an end to your miseries.' I turned
away saddened, yet thankful that the foulest blot on humanity,
the slave trade, is fast disappearing,^ and will -very soon be
amongst the things that were.

The return path to the hangar was more open than the one
we traversed in the morning ; and we could see the Terre Eouge
Mountains looming up before us covered with vegetation, with
the exception of the western spur, which appeared quite barren,
and from our position its shape resembled a Texan ranger's saddle.

I must not forget a story told by our guide of this same spur.
He said that, many years ago, a slave woman had fled from her
master to the woods for refuge near this locality. Being disco-
vered and pursued, she fled to one of the barren cliffs on the
side of the mountain, flung herself over the precipice, and was
dashed to pieces.

My sympathies were not so vividly roused as might have
been expected, knowing the wonderful propensity of this class
for repeating marvellous tales ; and I put it down amongst the
monster eel and other stories of a similar kind.

For a few minutes the sun broke through the thick clouds,
but evidently did not think it worth while to contend against
the rain and gloom, so quickly disappeared.

' Of course it no longer exists in the Mauritius or in any British possession.

Ch. XX.] A JOLLY TRAMP. 245

I regretted having only so short a time to pass in this loca-
lity, so varied and abundant was vegetable life, and changing
its character constantly.

Here and there, on the edges of the openings, was a clump of
towering tree-fei'ns. No matter how often one sees them,
every fresh group attracts the attention, and calls forth excla-
mations of delight ; and these, possibly from being sheltered
from the winds, had more perfect fronds than ordinary.

After crossing an open space covered with high grass, we
re-entered the forest by a narrow path cut by the chasseurs to
enable them to penetrate to the interior of these wilds. Eave-
nalas were everywhere abundant, but their grand crests of leaves
were often slit into ribbons. The flowers are very insignificant,
whitish, and spring from horizontal sheaths, and have a dry
banana-shaped fruit. The foot-stalks of the leaves, when cut
near the base, yield a plentiful supply of liquid, not only to
refresh the traveller in a dry and thirsty land, but to preserve
the tree itself in hot dry weather.

We soon reached the Eiviere du Bois hangar, and there
quitted our Creole friend, after thanking him heartily for the
assistance he had rendered us. We pushed on rapidly, the rain
giving us little respite, and found the streams considerably
swollen by all the rain since morning.

However, our tramp was a jolly one, made so by the excellent
conversational powers of my comrades. Sparkling chat, a song,
a hearty laugh over a stumble — so time and the road slipped
away. We took some refreshment at the Dhoodie hangar, and
off again to Fresanges, where our servants awaited us. We made
such good use of oiu: time that we got up to Mr. Currie's station
before the arrival of the train, and were glad enough to exchange
our soaked, mud-bespattered garments for a dry suit.

I dropped my companions one by one at their different
stations, but not before we had sworn a compact to renew om*
tramp on the first opportunity. I arrived in town in time to
keep an engagement to dinner, where my friends, when I told
them of my two days' excursion, put it half down to Yankee
invention.

CHAPTER XXI.

ON THE SEA, IN AND NEAR PORT LOUIS HARBOUR, WITH
DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME OF THE WONDERS THEREIN.

Start from Home — Embarking at the Trou Fanfaron — Docks, &c. —Landing
Bullocks — Scarcity of Shipping — Timber-ship unloading — Abundance of Fish —
Clearness of Water — Finding Caulerpa and Halisphila — Description of Hydro-
metridse — Errantia — Coasts of Mauritius — Eeefs and Fringing Corals — Their
Polyps— Boat touching the Reefs — Sharks and other Monsters — Echinas — Fish-
ing up Corals — Their Inhabitants — Fungi Agariciformis — Preparing Corals for
sale — The Beauty of the Depths — Origin of Barkly Island — Its Shells and
Algae — Aquariums — Crabs under the Rocks — Surface Corals of Species I have
not hitherto found — Champagne Bottles ; the various Fumes equally mischievous
to Man and Reptiles — Actimas — Pugnacious Eels — Breakfast — Tea versus Beer
or Brandy — Dragging the Tide-pools — Flying LalFs — Gymnobranchiata — Soldier
and Hermit Crabs — Leaving the Island — Examining the Contents of Fishermen's
Bags — Ourites — Lobsters — Butterflies out at Sea — Holothuroidea — Overboard
to dig up Pinnae — Dolabella Rumphi Shells — Tropic Birds — The Mud LaiFs —
Terrible Wounds inflicted by them— Sunset Visions — Return to the Trou
Fanfaron.

A DULL cloudy morning- and a sprinkle of cold rain. These
being often signs foretelling a fine day, or, as the Creoles say,
only a ' petite pluie de bon matin, n'a rien pa,' I was in no way
discouraged by the prospect. I had made up my mind to a
day's thorough enjoyment, and with a friend of like persuasion
I set off soon after daylight for an excursion on the sea. Two
men, well used to aid me in such expeditions, bore our nets,
rakes, bottles, fishing-tackle, long boots, and such-like gear,
and a well-filled basket of provisions. Numbers of plying boats
are always on hand from daylight to dark, manned principally
by Arabs and Lascars, who all rushed forward at our appearance,
pressing their claims to attention in a villainous lingo, half
Creole, half English.

Many of the old men own several boats, and make a great
deal of money plying to and from the shipping. So profitable
is it, that after a few years' work some go back to their native

Ch. XXI.] EMBARKING. 2^7

couDtries (principally the ports on the Red Sea) with a com-
fortable independence. They engage young fellows about
eighteen or twenty years old, and pay them a mere trifle a
month, they themselves always collecting the fares ; and many
of these lads make good steady boatmen, though some — I may
say most of them — are the sauciest rascals going.

We embarked in the large basin called the Trou Fanfaron,
formerly only the outlet of a petty stream, but, enlarged and
embanked, it then served for vessels to lie in for repairs not
requiring a dry-dock. Within the last fifteen years great
changes have taken place here. There have been built, at vast
expense and labour, three dry-docks and two patent slips, and
there are several spacious marine yards and boating companies
besides. In the former vessels of large size can be repaired, and
one of them can take in two ships at the same time. Unfortu-
nately the whole have been little remunerative, on account of
the fever. Its frightful ravages have spread such terror among
sea-captains, that they are even yet reluctant to bring their ships
here and expose their crews to its influence.

Diuring the hurricane-season (supposed to last from November
to April) the bullockers that trade to Madagascar for the beef
supply of Mauritius are laid up in the Fanfaron, as the risk to
vessels and their living freight would be too great at that
period. At the moment of our embarkation a huge ship,
lately arrived, was discharging her cargo of bullocks, and our
men rest on their oars for us to witness the operation.

A broad belt is fastened round the body behind the monstrous
hump (so noticeable a feature in Madagascar cattle), and then
the animal is hoisted out of the hold by machinery, and quietly
dropped over the side into the sea. The poor wretches look
pitiable enough as they dangle helplessly in mid-air, all their
limbs in a state of collapse, and they must feel wonderfully
astonished as they find themselves plunging below the waves.
Nevertheless, I should think the douche and subsequent swim
to shore must be very refreshing to their weary limbs so long
cramped in the vessel's hold, as well as a great purifier from the
foul odours of their temporary stables. Across the Fanfaron
extends the long railway-bridge on strong stone abutments,
which excited the Creoles' fears to such a pitch when first
opened, that two-thirds of them declared they never could or

S

248 THE HARBOUR. [Ch. XXI.

would cross it, and that that alone would be sufficient to insure
a failure on the north line. However, on completion, they
soon learnt to subdue their feelings and even to cross the Grand
River-bridge coolly, where an accident would precipitate the
train hundreds of feet below, into the wide and deep river.

We slowly round the point to our left, where vast beds of
coral crop out above the surface, and on which the Custom-
house and other buildings connected with the marine stand.
To the right runs out a long stone jetty, on which is in course
of erection a church for the sailors.^ The old man-of-war
(when no longer fit to thunder forth defiance and death) that
had been converted into a ' Bethel,' whence was given out the
message of love, ' Peace on earth and good-will to men,' had
come to utter grief during the last cyclone ; so subscriptions
were set on foot, and resulted in funds enough for this church.

We keep outside the shipping, which is ranged in tiers in the
inner harbour. Formerly it was not without great care we
could steer clear of the ropes of the thronging craft of all
nations ; but now, alas, they lie, like ' angels' visits, few and
very far between.' The few there are show busy life, cleaning,
painting, loading or unloading cargo, principally done by
Malabars, all screaming at the top of their voices or chanting
the monotonous notes in a high key, without which they
couldn't move even a bag of sugar or rice.

Lines of mud-boats passed us, towed by a small steam-tug,
taking their freight of filth from the harbour to be deposited
far out beyond the Bell Buoy. We hug the shore towards Fort
George on the right, and. pass the coaling-station for steamers,
which is close to the berth appointed for these vessels. Men
and things in general wear a coally aspect ; and I could not help
smiling to see, in front of one of the overseers' huts, a clump of
sugar-canes growing green and bright in the midst of the black
dust. Close by is at this time an active scene. A large
American ship has arrived from the East, laden with a freight
of valuable timber, principally the far-famed teak wood from
Moulmein. The spirits of the storm have been busy with her,
and made wild work of her spars and rigging, and battering her
hulk till she is obliged to unload her cargo. The giant logs,

^ Since completed.

Ch. XXL] A LANDSCAPE. 249

once the mighty monarchs of some Indian forest, are being-
rafted from her, and lie in hundreds, floating about and waiting
to be piled on shore by the coolies.

Another sprinkle of rain, and out comes the sun, dispersing
the mists on land and sea. The clouds roll away, leaving only
a nightcap on the head of the Pouce, which, with the adjacent
hills, half sunshine half shade, looms grandly in the background
of the city. Clearly defined are the Peter Both with its royal
head, and the Little Peter Both, which is a miniature likeness
of its namesake. Sharply outlined against the sky stand the
fire-worn cliffs of the Signal Mountain, and faintly visible in
the distance are Mount Ory and the Corps de Grarde, not
yet cleared of mist. The sea is still as an inland lake, scarcely
a ripple on its surface ; even the outer reefs are only marked by
a slight crest of foam till they approach the Point aux Caves,
where the waves are always breaking angrily.

Numbers of pirogues and fishing-boats are coming in rapidly
for the early morning market, laden with the finny spoils of
the preceding night. The whole harbour swarms with fish, and
the strokes of our oars constantly startle shoals of mullets that
spring out of the water, their silver sides glistening in the sun.

We now begin to see the corals on the bottom distinctly, but
our present quest takes us near Fort George, away from these
crystal waters, to a spot where I know a bank, not of odour-
breathing thyme, but composed of the densest mud mixed with
coal-dust this dirty harbour can produce. And now our work
commences. Out come the buckets and dishes for washing ;
and my friend waits, spectacles on nose, with magnifying-glasses,
sea-weed hook, &c., all in readiness to clutch whatever my rake
brings up.

I know of old that in this mud lies a bed of the precious
Haliotphila Madagascariensis (Steidel). Up comes a mass-
not of the coveted treasure — but of fine Caulerpa denticulata.
It is quickly freed from its muddy coat, and the thick broad
fronds show as bright a green as if grown in the clearest spring.
Next, I bring up a quantity of H. ovalis (R. Brown), much of
it in bud ; but many times I have to try over a large space
before the object of oiu: search is gained. In vain for months
have I hunted for this rare plant (which revels in the ooze), to
find it in flower ; but to-day we are rewarded, and after getting
some bucketsful of it, on close examination after cleaning, we

250 INSECTS. [Ch. XXL

found a few specimens in bud. Very carefully the best are
laid in our book, and others placed in a bottle of sea-water for
home inspection. A good omen this for our day's success.

As the sun by this time has warmed the water somewhat, we
see numbers of what appear like little white dots on long legs,
bobbing about and skimming over the surface of the water at
the swiftest pace. These curious insects (for such they prove to
be) are not easily caught, as on the approach of the net they
disappear under the waves by magic ; and when I had been
lucky enough to secure some, they were so agile, and sprang
up the net with such marvellous celerity, that I rarely captured
more than two or three out of every dozen in the net. They
belong, I believe, to the family of the Hydrometridae, but of
two species unknown to me. One is grey, striated on the
abdomen with black lines, and a black patch on the back.
The thighs are covered with shaggy down, and the two pairs of
hind legs are very long, the front pair near the head very short.
The antennae are jointed like a spider's, and the palpi are
visible above the head. Both are diamond-shaped, have promi-
nent eyes, and are whitish on the under side. From this
white showing so constantly, they would seem to possess the
faculty of swimming on the back like the Notonectidse, or water-
boatmen.

The second species is yellowish brown, with two transverse
black lines on each side of the back, and from them descend to
the abdominal extremity a double row of lunular spots, also
black, traversed by white lines. Two black dots lie behind
the eyes, and below them, extending down each shoulder, is an
elongated patch of the ^ame. The legs are nearly black, with
yellowish white base, and the palpi are so small that they are not
visible without the aid of a powerful glass. I first saw this
insect at fifteen or twenty miles from the shore to leeward of
the island. At the beginning of summer they appear to come
inside the reefs to breed, and in February and March may
be seen in hundreds near the shore.

One of the men hauls up a floating mass, which proves to be
a large Medusa ; but being injured, we are about to return it to
its native element, when some soldiers on the beach beg it, and
carry it off as a great prize. One of them, however, laid hold
of it with his hands, but let it drop like a hot coal, and doubt-

Ch. XXL] ERRANTIA. 251

less it felt like one to him, as nearly all irritate the skin greatly
when touched. We got a small one, that I brought home to
sketch, of a pale buff, grey and white. It somewhat resembles
the Cassiopea Andromeda (Tilesius), but the disc is perfectly
spherical, the divisions grey with milk-white centres, and in
the middle a circle with scolloped edges white within, a few
pale buff markings showing on it. The edges of the disc are
straight, with a cord-like border. The arms are eight in num-
ber, leaf- shaped, pale buff with darker edges, and rows of white
suckers up them. It is very graceful in its undulating move-
ments, and it remained alive for two days. The second day I
could touch it harmlessly, and on the third dissolution began.
The leaf-like appendages melted away gradually, but it was five
days before the disc perceptibly diminished. We landed close
to the fort, to give chase to some of the numerous scarlet-clawed
crabs there ; but they are so wary it is no easy matter to capture
them as they rush to their holes. While the men were busy
with them, I examined part of the moat, and fished up some
pieces of coral covered with curious green-striated zoophytes.
Here and there amongst them were a few fronds of the beautiful
plant the Acetabularia crenulata (Lam.). I believe this is
the first time this plant has been found in Mauritius. The
fronds were barely an inch in height, and the exquisite daisy-
like cups about half an inch in diameter.

We now turn our boat's head, and steer to the left for Barkly
Island. Before we enter the deep mid-channel of the harbour,
we hook up one of the Errantia ^ that lie thickly strewn over
the coral bottom. Many are over five feet long, and look round
and plump in the water, but when brought in on a stick hang-
limp and most repulsive-looking. They are fond of basking in
the sun in shallow water, but hide themselves in the crevices
of the coral rocks when disturbed. If they find escape impos-
sible, they will contract into a heap, but float out again directly
they are placed in water. Their Creole name is ' S'embrasse,'
and truly they hug everything they touch. They are covered
with hooked spines (acciculi), which are so small that to the
naked eye they resemble only dots or tubercles all over the
skin. The animal can evidently retract or protrude them at
will, as at times different parts of the body are quite smooth,

' Or some genus near it.

252 CORAL-REEFS. [Ch. XXI.

but never all at once. This species is of a sandy and greenish
gray colour, with dark lines, and a fine head of fleshy, olive-
coloured tentacles, beautifully feathered at each edge, twelve
in number, that cover a large pink mouth furnished with horny
jaws. The body is in tubular segments, that appear capable of
elongation at pleasure. I had one in a large bowl with some
Holothurise, and on the first day they lay a hopelessly entangled
mass, only their heads visible. On the second day the hooks
seemed to begin to lose their power, and by the end of the third
day they were scarcely perceptible. After death I could handle
it, though when alive it caused violent irritation of the skin.

While we are crossing the deep water, and enjoying the
tranquil beauty of the morning, I will say a few words on the
coast of Mauritius and the coral-reefs.

Small as is the actual extent of the coast line of this island,
it must ever be one of superlative interest to the naturalist,
from the wonderful, ever-changing-never-ending field of re-
search these vast encircling coral-reefs afford. The shores of
Mauritius are, as a rule, the most disappointing and uninterest-
ing I ever hunted over ; the only exceptions being after heavy
weather, when they are strewn with sea-weed. For weeks
together I have explored them in my early morning rambles,
and not found shell nor plant worth taking.

Yet it appears that all the world imagines both are to be
had in abundance for the trouble of picking up, from the con-
stant applications I have from friends in Europe and America
— a woeful mistake, for it is a great rarity to find a good or per-
fect shell on the shore. The debris of the deposits of ages of
shells and corals lie piled up on most parts of the coast, only
making it the more provoking, as they show the incalculable
wealth of conchological treasures in these seas, and the hope-
lessness of procuring them. Olives of the greatest beauty
swarm on the reefs, yet in three years I have not found a
dozen on the shore.

To acquire the treasures of the deep here, you must don a
suitable dress, old and thick, not forgetting long and strong
boots, and wade along at low water over the inner reefs ; and
there, if a true lover of nature, in a very short time you will
forget the shore's sterility in the varied and wondrous forms of
animal life you will meet at every step.

Ch. XXI.] CORAL-FORMATIONS. 253

What marvels might be revealed to one with abundant leisure
for the task, and the requisite amount of scientific knowledge,
to examine the reefs carefully, noting down every discovery — a
work of profit and pleasure to him who shall undertake it, and
one that will open many a new page in marine zoology. It
requires, however, infinite skill and patience, for the sea does not
render up its secrets without considerable of both.

These waters appear to possess most favourable circumstances
for the growth of the coral polyps. Being in the sub-torrid zone,
they have the mean temperature (about 68°) which is supposed
to be best suited to coral life. The whole island is surrounded
by reefs, with breaks at the mouths of the rivers, with the excep-
tion of a small porton of the southern coast, which is precipitous,
and where fresh-water streams are constantly pouring down
volumes of mud into the ocean, both of which are antagonistic to
the development of these polyps, especially the latter, as they
require clear water to work in. The innumerable rivers of lava
that in former times flowed far into the sea from the terribly
active volcanoes in Mauritius, and the submerged cones of the
great tract of land once in this vicinity, afforded foundations on
which these vast sea-walls have been constructed.

The reefs extend from one to five miles from shore, and at
low water it is shoal enough for the fishermen to ply their craft
in all but boisterous weather.

A great part of the inner reefs lie a few feet from the surface,
and some are partially exposed at very low tides. This does not
appear to have an injurious effect on the polyps ; indeed, I find
it is an ascertained fact that some species of coral will endure
temporary exposure to the sun.^

When we reflect on the wondrous power these minute
animalculse have of separating the calcareous matter from the
ocean to build their cells, it is truly ' marvellous in our eyes.'
Numerous as the coral polyps are, yet each one has not only its
own peculiar form and manner of constructing its habitation,
but its well-defined position in the reefs, as to the depth it
requires to fulfil the position of its growth. From 40 to 60 feet
is given as the general depth for reef-builders, though some
writers go as far as 100.

* See Dana on coral formations.

254

CORAL-LIFE,

[Ch, XXI.

Below this again are others that do not contribute to the
height of the reef, but ' grow under its shelter and do not begin
to work till it has a certain height, and then they fill the bot-
tom towards the shore.' ^ The principal of the latter are the
Dendrophylla3 (the ' shrubbery ' of these sea-forests, as Professor
Agassiz calls them). This writer, who has made corals an

especial study during a long life, gives a most interesting-
description of the coral polyp, from which I quote some of the
main facts.

He says : ' Corals are a part of the body of the animal, ^ as bones

POLYP EGGS.

DrFPERENT DEVELOPMENTS OF THE POLVPS.

are of our frame ; they are the solid portion of it when alive.
They are built upon a plan of radiation, and consist of a

' See Agassiz on coral life.

- So constantly but erroneously called ' an insect.'

Ch. XXI.] ASTREAS. 255

number of equal parts, diverging from a vertical axis, and
arranged in a perfectly symmetrical way. They have a
central mouth, and a number of feelers surrounding the upper
part of the body, which receive the food. This mouth opens
into a sac, which is the digestive cavity, having a hole through
which the digested food is carried into the main cavity of the
body. This latter is divided by radiating partitions into a
number of chambers communicating with one another at the
centre, but not united there.

' Such an animal when soft is a sea-anemone, but let the walls
be loaded with limestone and become stiff, then we have a
coral.'

The Professor states another still more curious fact, and one
still less generally known than the above, and which solves one
of the most perplexing questions in the study of these animals
— viz. Whence come the new corals that build up the various
portions of the reef ? He says : ' On examining these animals,
we find along the partitions which divide the internal cavity
bunches of eggs, and the young which are hatched from these
eggs are free, and swim in the water. They are little pear-shaped
bodies surrounded with innumerable fringes which keep them
revolving in the water. They move about until they find a
proper resting-place, where they fix themselves and grow.'

Whenever there is a reef which has grown up to the level,
say of six fathoms, where the second set of corals come in,
there will be found these little floating animals, which subse-
quently attach themselves to the reef at their proper level,
and grow. Then another set will come in, in the same way,
find their proper resting-place, and so build up the reef.

The outer and inner reefs present a widely different appearance.
In the former a certain order is observed. Here are the gigantic
Astreas, with their complicated inner structure and deep surface
pits, the corrugated sides of which are lined with polyps so de-
licate and flower-like. These animals are short and cylindrical,
with rovinded mouths in the centre of the disc, and an indefinite
number of tentacles, often spreading out to an inch in diameter,
and yet not one interfering with its neighbour. There are
several species here. I have found dead fragments with pits
nearly an inch wide, and greatly resembling the drawings of
LithostrotumCanadense (Castelnau), in the St. Louis limestone

256 MADREPORES. [Ch. XXI.

of the sub-carboniferous period ; and again I see others with
pits varying from two to five lines.

The inner reefs are strewn with gigantic heads of Astreas
wrenched from the reef-wall by some hurricane, often from fifteen
to twenty feet in diameter, and weighing some tons. Many of
these great blocks are far above the present sea level in the
Black Eiver valley — one of the numerous proofs of the rising of

the island.

Next come the magnificent Meandrinas, of varied form and
size, but generally heading like the Astreas. I frequently
bring up large detached corals of this group covered with a
polyp of the brightest green, which retain its colour for a
long time by keeping it in the dark. All I get alive have the
peculiar surface meanderings much smaller than those in the
monster dead blocks I constantly find on the shore.

After the Meandrinas come Porites, Millepores, and other
similar groups. This order must not be taken literally, as,
though occasionally they may be found in pretty regular suc-
cession, and these are the principal of the reef-builders, yet
they more frequently grow together promiscuously at different
depths ; some species of Astreas requiring deep water and others
lying on the surface, and so on for all the others.

The above-mentioned are those principally used for lime, and
it is curious to watch a large boat unloading, and see the mon-
ster blocks tossed on shore to be broken up. Many a precious
weed have I found on examining them, which, but for this acci-
dent, I might never have seen in a lifetime. Many of the
Porites are so solid and hard, it takes heavy blows to split
them. The lime-burners frequently go to the outer reefs, and
bring back a load of the loveliest of all the corals,^ the Madre-
pores, the upper group, and the Fungi, which are not reef-
builders.

They have a particular kind of hook for the purpose, and
detach large branches of living corals, which they prepare for
sale. This is not easy work, for enormous sharks swarm the
vicinity, and it is a wonder more accidents do not occur. The
corals are chosen that form handsome clusters or branches,

' I use this word as everyone here does, without any reference to its scientific
signification, corals actually forming no part of the group Madreporidae.

Ch. XXL] GRAND PORT BA Y. 257

and they are buried in the sand for a certain number of days,
when they begin to whiten. They are very particular as to
the time, for if left too long they blacken and are spoilt.
When dug up they are exposed to the full blaze of the sun, and
every day sprinkled with sea-water, till they resemble masses of
frosted snow. They are generally sold amongst the shipping,
as the sailors give good prices for them to take home, the
people there caring little for such things. The Creoles have a
notion that a piece of coral in a house induces headache.

The destructive power of the periodical cyclones on the reefs
is enormous ; huge masses of coral are dislodged, and carried
in towards the shore, where they still go on growing, though
less vigorously than heretofore, and form an irregular surface,
when sheltered from the force of the waves, but never a com-
pact reef like that exposed to the ever-surging billows.

The reefs in Grrand Port Bay, on the coast near Black Eiver,
and round the Morne, are the most extensive. In the first-men-
tioned they are making in rapidly, and in no very long period of
time this bay will be impassable for any but the smallest fishing-
boats. Not from the quick growth of the corals, which is of
the slowest possible, as, according to the greatest authorities,
hundreds of thousands of years have been required to bring the
reefs to their present size. It is from the masses of loose coral,
shell drift, coral debris^ and sand brought in by every tide, and
heaped up by every south-easter or hurricane.

A contemplation of the sea, even in persons who look on it
only as a 'waste of waters,' generally induces a feeling of
seriousness, if not of sadness. It has a powerful attraction for
many who rarely give more than a passing thought to the
countless hordes of living beings within it. What endless
reflections, then, must it evoke for those who believe with
Humboldt that the ' sea contains within its bosom an exube-
rance of life of which no other portion of the globe could give
us any idea ! ' How truly does another naturalist remark, that
' science has so much to explore in it to carry the knowledge
already acquired to the degree of perfection of which it is sus-
ceptible I '

How full are those vast prairies of the deep, those ocean
forests, of organised beings, all enjoying life under conditions so
utterly opposed to those of terrestrial origin ; yet all luxuriating

258 TIGER SHARK. [Ch. XXI.

in those hyaline depths, whose profound beauty is nevertheless
fraught with horror and death to man !

A French writer, I think Lamarck, says, ' we find in the sea
unity and diversity which constitute its beauty ; grandeur and
simplicity which give it sublimity ; power and immensity that
command our wonder.'

A few more centuries, a nothing in the world's age, but in
which the greatest of earth's dynasties may have crumbled to
dust, when myriads no tongue could count of these frail
architects, these tiny Acalephs and Actinoid Polyps, have
perished, their bodies will form monuments that will outlast
the mightiest fabrics ever raised by human hands.

They will exist, preparing new lands for new generations of
men. The winds and waves, ceaselessly spreading ruin and
devastation for fhis age, are hourly helping to accumulate and
consolidate on the coral beds earth and vegetation for the
lands one day to be inhabited by sentient beings whose intellects
may far exceed ours, and to whom perchance the secrets of
Nature hidden from our eyes may be laid bare.

A crunching sound — a shock — and I am suddenly brought
back from speculations on the illimitable future to the actual
fact that my inattentive steering has brought us into contact
with the reefs on the opposite side of the deep channel. An
unpleasant feeling comes with the shock, for in case of upset
even the best swimmer has not a great chance of escape, for
the deep water swarms with sharks. These scavengers of the
deep are ever on the alert, as all the dead animals either in
Port Louis or the shipping are brought out here and flung into
the sea, when they are at once devoured.

The Tiger Shark is one of the most voracious of its tribe, a
true man-eater, quite as ferocious as the Zygoena malleus {Sha,vf\
or Hammer-headed Shark, also a native of these seas, but which is
rarely caught. Young sharks are brought almost daily to the
market, where they are sold, cut up in slices, to the Indians, who
take a pleasure in eating them, out of revenge for the numbers
of human victims made a meal of by the creatures yearly.

It is very rare for a shark to be seen inside the reefs in shallow
water, but they infest the deep channels or breaks in the reefs
at the entrance of every bay on the coast. The Bay of Tombeau,
of ' Paul and Virginia ' fame, has acquired a terrible notoriety for

Ch. XXL] CORAL REEF. 259

accidents — pirogues or boats frequently upsetting, and one or
more of the occupants finding a grave in the hideous jaws of
some monstrous shark.

I assisted at the capture of one of these brutes on board an
American whale-ship. A bait was put on a large hook, with a
strong chain attached to a three-inch rope as a line. When he
felt the hook he ran out some fifteen fathoms from the ship and
came near breaking the line. A boat was lowered, and one of
the men sent a harpoon into him, when he made straight at the
boat ; but a whaleman's nerves are not easily flurried, and a
steady blow with a whale-spade severed the vertebrae just behind
the shoulder, otherwise he would probably have upset the boat.
When brought on board and measured, it was fifteen feet long,
and the jaws twenty-eight inches in diameter. On opening it,
twenty-two young sharks were taken out of the creature, most of
them two feet long. The liver filled a small barrel, and yielded
a considerable quantity of oil. I have it from good authority that
sharks twenty -five feet long have been caught off the harbour.

Dog-fish, skate, rays, and other voracious fish, are constantly
captured, and all find ready sale among the black races.

As we slowly glide over the shoal-water we can see the
corals bristling with Echini ; and it is a lovely sight, as we gaze
down between the great blocks, to see, at the bottom of pools
from fifteen to twenty feet deep, numbers of Actiniae in full blow
and many-hued fish disporting among them. One lovely Actinia
I see for the first time, the tentacles striated pink and white and
yellow, and they appear very long, though that may be from the
effect of the water. I try hard to detach one, but without success.
Another animal, equally beautiful, I succeed in getting, but it
resulted in the tube of an Annelide about two inches long,
of a rough dirty brown. I suppose I injured it in forcing it
from the rock, where it clung so tenaciously, as it never opened
again.

I preserved the case, which, though rough outside, was smooth
as satin within.

The Echini, both mammillatus and esculentus, are abundant ;
also one species I do not know, that has long fine-pointed spines
nearly four inches in length, beautifully striated, claret -colour
and white, crossing each other in all directions. They are very
difficult to preserve, they are so brittle, and are most troublesome

26o ECHINI. [Ch. XXL

to the fisherman, as the spines are serrated, and when they break
in the flesh are not easily extracted.

Another very common Echinus has a brown shell with white
spines barely an inch long.^ I have frequently taken them
home, and laid them on the ground for the liquids to exude,
when the small black ant would attack them, climb up the
shell and detach the spines with the greatest activity, and each
walk off with a load that must be equivalent to what a large
beam would be to a man. When one could not manage his
burden, several would help him down the shell, and then run
back to their own work. It was most amusing to watch them
detaching a firmly set spine, pushing under it with their heads,
and rarely leaving it till they had succeeded.

There is a beautiful purple Echinus, plentiful at certain sea-
sons, covered with hexagonal plates, exquisitely inlaid and edged
with a border of elongated ones ; and another of the same
colour, with spines instead of plates. I have taken at different
times nine other species of Echini, variously coloured, the
names utterly unknown to me.

One of the men hauls up a great branch of the Madrepore
cervicornis, and a busy scene takes place instantly. Out leap
in all directions small glittering fish, the young of the Holo-
centrum hastatum, and others I do not know, green and white.
The coral tips are all injured, so we proceed to break it up,
and from every crevice creep crabs of all sizes and colours.
Some, however, cling so tenaciously they will part with their
claws rather than loose their hold. Disgusting-looking, flesh-
coloured Annelidse, covered with white hairs, that punish
the intruding hand severely ; Squillse, those queer creatures
that so much resemble the praying mantis ; and shrimps, pink,
olive, and bright green, make their appearance.

Buried in the crevices is the black Ophiocornus erinaceus
(M. and T.) ; and how he manages to tuck in his five stiff
armour-plated legs into such small holes is always a mystery
to me, for when in the hand it is so rigid and inflexible, and
the limbs or some of the joints break off with a touch.

Our next haul is too handsome to be treated so ruthlessly as
the last, and with the greatest care (one of the men going

> The esculentus, I believe. I have frequently eaten it, and found it as good as an
oyster.

Ch. XXL] CORALS. 261

overboard to lend a helping hand) we fish up a splendid branch
of the same coral alive, the tips of pale lilac ; and hanging in
tufts all over it is a pretty little Elachista, which we first care-
fully detach. Clinging to it are a number of small, rough,
brown crabs, so nearly the colour of the base of the coral that
we do not at once notice them. They stick most pertinaciously,
and are with difficulty got off, but their legs do not appear so
brittle as those of many other species, so we got a good many
perfect ones. The claws and eyes are enamelled of the same
colour as the corals on which they are always found, but when
dead they change to pure white. On many of the pieces of dead
coral we saw large clusters of the Digencea simplex, which looks
so velvety when alive, but quite spoils in the drying.

Lying about on the bottom are hundreds of mushroom corals
(Fungus agariciformis). They are very small on the inner
reefs, and mostly flat, but when alive are curious and interest-
ing. They have no apparent hold on the rocks they lie on,
there are no tentacles visible, and, according to Ehymer Jones,
' they have no separate organs for the performance of the
vital functions. The thin membraneous film apparently ab-
sorbs the materials for its support from the water, and deposits
within its substance the calcareous particles which it secretes,
moulding them to form its peculiar skeleton.'

I have taken them alive and kept them so for two days in a
bowl of sea- water. Their ' gelatinous investment ' scarcely
contracts from merely lifting the mushroom out of the sea, but
if touched with a finger it shrinks visibly. All the laminae are
filled with this gelatinous substance, of a brilliant mottled
scarlet, green, and white, and when undisturbed it will over-
flow and cover them, and has a singular appearance as it oscillates
in the water. At intervals on its surface are the soft sucker-
like vesicles of a bright lilac colour, which swell out when at
rest, but shrink into the mass if touched. These vesicles
were once supposed to be rudimentary tentaculae, but are now
believed to be filled with air to support the animal in an up-
right position, as when overturned they appear to die ; I have
never found a live one reversed. Some of these Fungi of the
sea are tinted lilac and green only.^

* I hare taken two other species at different times of different colours.

262 CORAL FISHING, [Ch. XXI.

Very fine hollow ones are taken from the outer reefs and
bleached for sale. I have seen one over a foot across, which
was mounted with a silver handle for a card basket, and it
made an exceedingly pretty and unique ornament for a lady's
table.

We drag up a netful of detached corals, and they are alive
with small star-fish, scarlet, brown, greenish ; the latter
mottled, and always with two or three short arms and two very
long ones, or some of them broken, but the wound healed, and
the end rounded again, and not appearing at all to interfere
with the creature's locomotive powers. From some bits of corals,
worn till they resemble small flat stones, hang long wreaths of
Sargassum, the disc-like root sticking so fast that it requires a
knife to dislodge it. Every leaf is covered with a pale pink
parasite, the Jania antennina (Kutz), and at first sight it is
difficult to distinguish the plant.

One variety of Madrepore is of the palest rose, on the tips of
the polyp cells, the upper ones of which are much larger than
the lower, and all are elongated and narrow; whereas the lilac-
coloured ones are rounder and the upper cells cup-shaped.

Twice only have I found a curious and, I believe, rare coral, a
species of Gralaxea. It is so fragile that it is quite impossible to
get it up with rake or hook ; so that, protected from cat-fish, lafs,
or other troublesome customers by my long boots, I jump over-
board and bring up the little beauty in my hands. Instead
of branching, it is a series of slender but solid irregular-shaped
tubes, about two inches long, that grow in tufts of ten or
twelve dozen. These tubes are grouped together by being im-
bedded in a soft white honeycombed matrix for about a third of
their length, as fine as, and greatly resembling, threads of lace.
This small coral is indescribably lovely in the water when alive.
The top of each tube is laminated, and is of pure white ; the
interstices of the laminae are filled with a brilliant glaucous
green and mottled white gelatine, very like the animal of the
Fungi : the lower part is brown. The tubes are only laminated
about two lines in depth, and the plates are shaped like a broad
spear-point set on edgeways, every one being finely serrated.
There are twelve large laminae with a small one between each,
the inner edges all meeting round a hollow centre. When living,
a small tentacle, of the shape of a pin's head set on a point,

Ch. XXL] A YEAR OF CYCLONES. 263

appears above each plate, and they do not appear as sensitive
as most of the Polyps, for they scarcely retract on touch. In
one specimen I found two of the tubes united, and a number
of little ones sprouting round the top like a hen-and-chickens
daisy.

These tufts at once arrest the eye among the dingy masses
of coral they rest on, and for the moment they forcibly re-
minded me of a bunch of snowdrops springing from the dark
earth — a singular idea to cross one under a tropical sun ; but
there is no accounting for the vagaries of thought, which seems
to delight in drawing comparisons between things of the most
opposite nature.

The water is here so transparent that we can see to a depth of
from fifteen to twenty feet in the hollows between the larger coral
rocks ; and we never tire of gazing into those deep pools, with
their cool quiet beauty, so unlike the upper waters. We are
nearing Barkly Island, and between it and the shore at Fort
William the water is so shallow that the boat can only just pass
at low tides. Beds of Ulvse now show, and we run into a little
inlet ; and while our boatmen moor their boat with a primitive
anchor made of a lump of coral, it will not be out of place to
give some description of the origin of this singular islet.

The beginning of the year 1868 will be for ever famous in
the annals of cyclones in the Indian Ocean. From January to
March they were raging in one part or other of it. Twice they
visited Mauritius, both times inflicting serious losses on ship-
ping and sugar plantations. The first cyclone lasted from the
14th to the 16th of January, which, passing close to the island,
created a tremendous sea, the waters breaking furiously over the
X. and W. coasts. At the entrance of Port Louis Harbour, the
waves were truly frightful, throwing up piles of coral debris,
at the right hand (going in), and forming an islet three-quarters
of a mile in length, in some places from four to six feet high.
This was nearly united to the mainland, there being only a foot or
two of water covering the banks opposite Fort William, and
I have no doubt another hurricane will unite them altogether.

On the morning of the 16th I went with an American crew
in a whale-boat, and after some difficulty, and several attempts,
as the waves were still high, and the surf heavy from the reefs,
we landed safely on the new islet. The appearance of the

T

264 BARKLY ISLAND. [Ch. XXI.

broken blocks of coral, shells, and marine debris was remarkable.
The first thought that struck me was to give it a name, and
that of the popular Governor suggested itself. I immediately,
in due form, gave it the name of Barkly Island, in honour of
that patron of the arts and sciences in Mauritius, and the
rolling surf, as it dashed a volume of spray over it (and us too),
gloriously completed the baptism. This name has been acknow-
ledged, and will last as long as the islet itself.

The curious formation of Barkly Island has opened up to
conchologists many beautiful and hitherto rare species of shells,
and some quite unknown. A peculiar characteristic of very
many of the shells when first discovered was their brilliant
colour, particularly those of shades of yellow. As many as 350
species have been found here, the Cones, Cyprsea, Mitras,
Pleurotimas, and Tritons being very valuable. The place has
been ransacked, literally dug over to some depth, till it is
difficult to find any but the commonest shells, except at low
tide.

This morning we are in luck, for it is lower than I have seen
it for a long time, so that we can go far on the reefs. Out
everyone turns, laden with bags, bottles, and sticks, to make
loot of everything that falls in our way, except our two boat-
men, who looking upon us as slightly non compos for giving our-
selves so much trouble for nothing, bless Allah and his Prophet
that they are more rational, and lie down at full stretch on the
coral in the sun for a morning's nap.

It is a misnomer to call this an island, for there is not an
inch of land on it, nothing but a pile of coral, and shell debris
raised in the centre, and sloping to the reefs on either side.
On the east the surf is always rolling in, but on the west side
it is still water, the waves only rising with a gentle splash in
ordinary weather, thus giving time for large beds of Ulva Luiza
and Entromorpha intestinalis to grow and flourish, which
afford shelter to innumerable marine animals.

My friend and I first explored the east, while the men dug in
the centre for shells. The last night's tide has left a belt of
sea-weeds which we pounce on at once, as we frequently find
many plants here that, grown in deep waters, are rarely washed
up on the coast — great wreaths of splendid Turhinaria orna-
ta (Turner), two-thirds of the cup-shaped leaves filled with

Ch. XXL] MOLLUSCS. 265

tufts of /S^Aace^aria tribuloides fKuntz). Half-buried in the
coral sand with them are heaps of Sargassum, principally the
Myriocystum and Polycystum of Aghardt, with here and
there a bit of the pretty little gracile ; masses of Hypnseas,
especially the Yeijex^quisite divaricata (Grev.),and its numerous
varieties.

We find three species of Liagora, one the fine pulverulenta
(Ag.), so deep-coloured when fresh, but which becomes a dingy
grey very rapidly. Clinging to every plant, most difficult to
dislodge, is the Hypncea valenta (Turner), the pest of Port
Louis Harbour. On detached corals are plants of the Aonansia
glomerata (Ag.), small, but resembling tufts of purplish red
roses when just out of the water, but they shrivel and darken
directly on exposure to the air. Decomposed, in large quanti-
ties, lies the beautiful Hypncea horrida (Ag.) ; but it is impos-
sible to procure a perfect specimen of it, unless you catch it
when floating to the shore.

Occasionally we come on the pretty rose-spotted Cyprcea
cruenta ; but more numerous are the young of the Tigris, the
Mauritiana, and the Isabellas, with their orange tips and many
hues. I have found the G. Gernica at rare intervals here, so
highly valued by collectors at the present time. As we wade over
the reefs we meet with various kinds of Tritons — on every ridge
the dull grey shells of the grandimaculatum (Eeeve) edged
with its silky brown fringe, which is soon lost when dead on the
shores. The striped varieties of the T. ruticulum (L.) are very
handsome when taken alive, especially the scarlet and yellow
varieties. The Tritons can be kept alive a long time in salt
water, and open out readily, showing the curious animal, white,
covered with various-sized brown spots. Also the small Surf
Harp, which would make an attractive object in an aquarium,
with its elegant pink mantle studded with yellow stars and spots.
This attractive mollusc may be always found at low tides on the
reef, and seems to be a favourite morsel with some fish. Whilst
wading in the clear water, I saw a small Ourite dart after
something invisible to me, and back again to his hole. I
waited patiently for him with my hook-tipped stick, and pre-
sently captured him. In his stomach were three pretty little
Surf Harps which the brute had only just swallowed.

How very few amongst the hundreds in the world who have

266 A HINT FOR WOMEN. [Ch. XXI.

collections of shells know anything of the wondrous animals
which once inhabited them ; yet what a delightful study it is,
possessing attractions which the mere students of their empty
houses can never realise. I am glad to see that aquariums are
becoming one of the fashionable necessities of the day. I say
fashionable, because, when a thing is once stamped with that
term, it is pretty sure to be carried out to its fullest extent, and
numbers who scarcely ever took the trouble to think that a shell
had an inmate before, will soon begin to take pleasure in watch-
ing the curious marine animals they are fortunate enough to
procure. It may be the means of developing in many a mind
the germs of a love for the study of Nature, which will be one
good score to the credit of my Lady Fashion. It will be a great
benefit for the present generation, for if the mothers are or can
be brought to be deeply imbued with a true appreciation of the
works of the Grreat Creator, their children will be sure to im-
bibe it. In my humble opinion, even at the risk of censure
from the whole Sorosis Club, I hold that a woman would be far
better employed in telling her girls of the beauties of a Bulla
with its azure tipped-mantle, or of the gorgeous scarlet robe of
Gonus fuscatus, than in dinning the doctrines of woman's rights
into their youthful ears, and training them to believe they are
bound to wage perpetual war against our sex.

We come to a tolerably flat part of the islet, only bare at
very low water, and here a new kind of hunt begins, and one
generally very profitable. We turn over the loose lumps of
coral, but unless there are few live Crustacea or molluscs stick-
ing to them outside our labour is in vain. Lift a large one
gently with this outward and visible sign, and there is as much,
if not a little more, below it than we know what to do with all
at once.

Literally a mass of entangled living animals lies there wait-
ing for the returning tide. First spring out the quick SalaHus
Dussumerei, difficult to catch as they bound about, and so
slippery that you can scarcely keep them when caught : they are,
however, harmless. Not so the eels occasionally there, which
we let go, as we have already specimens of them. Crabs from a
(juarter of an inch to three inches long crawl off with alacrity,
and some of them give a sharp nip if not carefully handled.
Smooth and hairy annelides, star-fish, shrimps, and small but

Ch. XXL] PHOLAS, 267

rare Echini, are all jumbled together. Stranger still, you may
collect a handful of shells, rare Pleurotomas, Drillias, Mitras,
and all alive ! 0 lucky chance ! with what delight we clutch
and bag our prizes ; how woefully disappointed we are on their
examination may be guessed when I say that, though every
shell has life in it, not above one in a hundred has its legiti-
mate occupant — the legal owners have been long ago devoured by
the little voracious Hermit Crabs, who appear to make their lair
in these hollows, and thence make raids on the reefs, carrying
in their victims and leaving the shells in a heap for the habita-
tions of their young. They are born robbers, for we find the
most minute shells with little crabs in them, that cannot long-
have been hatched, yet they cling as tenaciously to their stolen
dwellings as the older ones.

One of the commonest of these Hermit Crabs is black with
brilliant blue legs, one large white claw, and scarlet eyes.
Another marauder has blue eyes and a black claw, which he
raises defiantly when you intrude on him. The Pagurus
Bernhardiis^ of various colours, often quite white, dies very soon
when out of water — a slight injury kills it ; whereas many of the
large Soldier and Hermit Crabs are uncommonly lively for a day
or two, much to my annoyance often, when I have been woke
up at midnight, after a hard day on the reefs, by their falling
off the table and clattering over the bare floors.

With my hammer I broke some of the large blocks of coral
to hunt for Pholas, the curious and little-known Leptoconchus,
and others only found in coral. I was very successful as to the
Pholas : these singular molluscs have the peculiar faculty of
boring into solid blocks, and preparing a house for themselves,
and not a house only, but a grave also, for, when once located,
they live and die there. The Leptoconchus is very rare ; and
one species found since the formation of Barkly Island is, I
believe, new. I have never found a live one. On corals, bits of
wood and shells, we find Serpulas innumerable, many of them
dead, but occasionally we chance on a living one, which is a
charming object, when the elegant feathery tentacles are spread
out, radiating the loveliest colours, but at the least approach
of a hand they dart like a flash of light into their stony
chambers. I believe some of the smaller species of Serpula
may be yet unnamed.

268 A NEW USE FOR A BOTTLE. [Ch. XXI.

In one block of coral I found a curious little yellow Cliiro-
nectes, about one inch in length ; and running over the rocks I
caught a small black one, of which I can find no description ;
the pectorals and ventrals are used as feet, and the little
creature scuds along at a great rate. I never succeeded in
getting another, though I have often hunted for one.

Whilst busy amongst the corals, my friend made a bargain
with a man fishing on the reefs for a very large and most villanous-
looking red Chironectes — I think the G* hirsutus (C. and V.).
It was so puffed out that I was curious to see the reason ; so I cut
it open, and found in the stomach a fish nearly as long as itself —
a young Eouget (Surmullet). How the fish captiured it, and, still
more wonderful, how he swallowed it, I am at a loss to conceive.
It was there in the stomach — proof positive he had swallowed it,
yet the jaws did not appear to me capable of such great expan-
sion. This Chironectes also uses the fins as feet, and, being
armed with sharp claws, it moves very rapidly over the rocks.

We find numbers of the pretty Hydatina physis alive, its
lovely blue and buff mantle forming an elegant trimming to the
grey striated shells. One of the men brings us his findings
amongst the dead corals, and we are glad to see many of the
oddly formed Chinaman's Hats, or Tectum sinense : why
' Chinaman's,' I don't know, as I never saw one wear a hat of this
shape. There are many of them quite perfect, and so are the
pretty and rare Neritopsis radula and the equally rare Murex
Cummingi, which I have never found alive here, but have
received fresh specimens of it from Madagascar.

We find a few of the comical-horned Aplysia depilans, which
we take especial care of, in order to get their delicate shells
when dead, which lie in a fold of the back.

A few common shells, and a few tufts of Ehodymenia of
various species, are all we find round the farther end of the
islet.

Numbers of empty bottles drift here from the shipping, and
are caught in the rocks. No sooner do they become fixed than
they are taken possession of ; and it is curious to see the various
creatures that live amicably together in them, and on them.
From some I got a small star-fish quite new to me ; in the
bottom of one was fixed a shell wherein was housed a fat White
Crab : he was not, however, the sole tenant of his adopted tene-

Ch. XXL] EELS, 269

ment, for on each end of the shell was a large Actinia ; and a
small one, of a delicate yellow tint with white antennjB, hung
over the front, where the crab protruded his eyes to look at his
captor. One of the large ones had a lilac, brown, and white
striated mantle clinging to the shell ; above, it was of a plaided
brown surmounted by lilac and fawn tentacles, beyond which
at times the mouth extended. The other had the basal lines
green, pink, and white, the same plaided appearance above, but
the tentacles colourless, with a deep pink mouth. I brought
home this curious family, and kept it in a shallow dish for some
days : the crab did not trouble at all about his neighbours, nor
did their weight affect him. The small Actinia soon disgorged
its filamented interior and died. The large ones exuded small
rose-coloured filaments from the pores in the mantle, and a
small quantity from the mouth : the latter were, however, re-
swallowed, and they opened their antennae freely. Towards the
end of the second day the mantles began to loosen, but on
changing the sea-water they again adhered, and it was only on
the fourth day that they collapsed, and slipped off dead : I do not
doubt they would be very hardy in an aquarium. I once took
one with seven Actiniae on the same shell, the mantles of two
partially over the opening ; yet the crab's crawling in and out
did not appear to interfere with them. I should like to know
who was the first tenant.

Nearly every bottle had an eel in it, and most troublesome
fellows they are to dislodge. I got out one, a foot and a half
long and two inches thick, but how he managed to squirm in
I know not, unless he went in thin, and fattened on the remains
of the champagne. I had to break the neck of the bottle to
get at him, and when I had wounded him he raised his head
and showed fight, puffing defiance at me. A little terrier I had
with me, seeing its threatening attitude, rushed to the rescue ;
but poor Quilp had to retreat ignominiously, howling pitifully,
as his new enemy bit him in the cheek,^ and I had to give
him a second sharp stroke to keep him from wriggling into the
sea.

There is a great variety of eels in this harbour: I have eighteen
already in my sketch-book, and that is only a small portion of

^ Leaving, where the sharp teeth had caught him, a long sear for life.

270 EELS. [Ch. XXI.

those I have seen. Amongst the rare ones I may mention the
Murcena tentaculata, which takes its name from the feathery
tentacles on the upper lip. The body is jet black, the dorsal
fin of bright yellow, with a basal line of blue, and the anal fin
is entirely of the latter colour. I had one sent to me alive in
a basket of sea- water by the captain of a whale-ship, who caught
it in the outer harbour. It was one of the most elegant
creatures I ever saw, and every evolution grace itself ; when I
touched its mouth with a stick, it did not snap at it, as most
of the eels do here, but seemed rather to try and avoid it.

One species is, I believe, new, a bright-green eel, spotted all
over with yellow, a pale green dorsal fin, and bright crimson
eyes, which gives it a most ferocious look. The only specimen
I ever had was about a foot long. The Anguille a rubans, as
the Creoles call them, are numerous and very varied. The bands
or ribbons of black or brown are all at equal distances, but the
large spots are very different. I have three drawings, one with
two, one with eight, and another with fifteen large oblong-
black spots. Some have no spots, and these are the females, so
the fishermen say.

The Poecilopteris variegata is very common, and has also
several varieties. When alive the markings are all irregular,
running into each other, but when dead they take the regular
form seen in drawings of this eel. The same thing I have
noticed with others ; a very common one, the Ciseaux (Creole),
I had drawn from a dead specimen, and when I first saw a live
one I proceeded at once to sketch it, taking it for a different
one. Something interrupting me, I was unable to finish it
till after it was dead, when I found it the same as the other,
the confusion of brown lines and blotches having subsided into
regular figures. Nearly all the eels I have here met with
resemble snakes in their manner of elevating the head, and the
fierce way they turn on man when disturbed. One cunning
fellow, I think the Anguille morele, often gives the unwary
fisher a sharp bite. It grows about two feet long, and is of a
sandy colour, with the tail tipped pink. The fin is scarcely
perceptible round the tail, which is stiff and pointed, and with
it he digs a hole in the muddy bottom, deep enough for him
to stand on end in. Here he waits for his prey, with his head
only visible, his keen eyes allowing nothing to escape him, and

Ch. XXL] WHAT TO DRINK. 271

being so colourless under water lie often catches the fishermen's
legs or hands as they grope about after cat-fish. One day, when
out at some distance from the reefs, I had the rare good fortune
of watching an eel exude its spawn. I noticed the creature
swimming uneasily about, and it excited my curiosity. Al-
though my presence evidently annoyed her, it would appear
this was the spot she had chosen to deposit her eggs. After
gracefully and slowly circling round, she remained for a few
moments perfectly motionless, and then the operation com-
menced, resulting in a beautiful spiral scarlet string of spawn,
nearly ten inches in length, and over an inch in width. After
all was completed, and the eel had carefully examined it, with
a sudden dart it disappeared, and I was unable to capture it.
I carefully collected the eggs, and preserved them in glycerine,
but am sorry to say they soon faded to a faint yellow. The string
resembles to the naked eye a delicate scarlet fabric of lace.

We emptied all the bottles we could find of their living con-
tents, carefully replacing even the broken ones, as traps for
future use. All this work, though exciting, was considerably
fatiguing, and we were by this time hungry as wolves, so we
called a halt, and proceeded to breakfast. An old sail spread
over the rough coral served us for table and seats, and wfe made
quick work of the contents of our dishes.

Here I would give a hint to fellow-hunters of the sea, on the
proper thing to take on such an excursion. I pronounce it to
be tea, that blessed drink that quenches thirst without causing
inebriation. I have tried all kinds of liquids, and find that I
work better, never get overheated, or headache from the sun,
when I keep to tea, so always lay in a store of bottles of it.
Brandy I take in case of accidents, but a still better
remedy from the ill resulting from contact with the many
noxious creatures we meet, pricks from spines, or stings, is a
mixture of tincture of Urtica icrens or of tincture of ledum
(one part tine, to five of water), and either will allay the
consequent irritation like a charm, and will prevent in-
flammation. It is a decided and serious mistake to use beer,
porter, wine, or ardent spirits when exposed to a blazing sun,
as on such an expedition one necessarily is.

Breakfast and cigars over, we return to our work, and begin
to drag the side pools on the west side of the islet. As we dip

272

UNDER THE SEA.

[Ch. XXI.

our nets we disturb shoals of brilliant little fish, but so active
that I have never been able to catch one, though I have tried on
each visit to this spot. They are silvery-white with a blue
line from snout to tail —if full-grown or only the young of some
fish I know not ; but other prizes soon make up for their loss.
The men with their baskets caught two small lafs of the genus
Pterois. They require most delicate handling to preserve them
alive to carry them home for sketching. In the water they
resemble winged creatures. The skin is a dead white, with
vivid pink or scarlet and brown lines. The first dorsal fin is

StrBMARINTE VIEW.

free with the exception of a small strip of bright-coloured
membrane at the base ; the pectorals are free half-way along
the rays, and extend over the caudal of scarlet white and green ;
the latter with the second dorsal and anal fins are yellow, with
rows of black spots, and the ventrals are jet black with scarlet
tips and large white spots twice the depth of the body. Above
the eyes are long striated filaments, which give its name
{Pterois antennata\ and from the mouth and preoperculse float
green and scarlet leaflets. When alive and every part is fully
expanded, it is equally beautiful and curious, as it has a quick

Ch. XXL] THE LAFF. 272>

quivering movement, never quite at rest. No conception of it
can be formed from a dried specimen. The upper lip when
living overlaps the under, but immediately after death it shrinks
back and alters the character of the face. Some have a deep
maroon stripe passing through the eyes and down the cheeks.
This Pterois is called the Flying Lafif by the Creoles, but the
true P. volitans differs somewhat from this. The fishermen
say these fish grow large, but I have never seen one more than
seven inches long. I have had some fine specimens of the Laf
des brisants {Pterois muricata), which they say acquires its
rich scarlets and greens by feeding on the Polyps of the outer
reefs.

Scorpsenas abound here, or Lafs de corail, of every vivid hue
mingled together, marvels of colour ; but we only found a dead
one washed on shore. In this genus the dorsals and pectorals
are nearly full, with the exception of the inferior rays of the
latter, which are singularly rounded and flattened, as if they
served also as feet, as the Creoles say they do, and they cer-
tainly have the appearance of it. The very name of Laff inspires
dread, on account of the dangerous wounds inflicted by the
spines of the genus Synauceia, but I doubt those of the Pterois
and Scorpsena being of the same nature. I have several times
pricked myself with the Tnuricata and volitans when preparing
them, but without any harmful result. Perhaps, when alive,
they may be poisonous.

We found some of the finest specimens of animals of the order
Grymnobranchiata I ever beheld. One was as large as a good-
sized dinner-plate ; it was white, with large chocolate blotches,
and a pink mantle : unluckily it died too soon. Two others I
succeeded in bringing home to sketch. I never saw any living-
animals with such gorgeous colours — the most vivid carmine and
pure white, mixed with golden yellow in the bodies and mantles,
and the gills of pale lemon colour and lilac. No painting could
give an idea of the harmony of the shades as they blended
into each other, or the undulating grace of the movements of
the mantles. I have sat for an hour at a time watching them,
lost in admiration, and frequently turning them over to see the
expert way they would contract the elegant gill-branches, and
re-open them as soon as they had righted themselves, but I could
never decide which was the lovelier. Whilst I was busy with

274 SHRIMPS. [Ch. XXI.

my net, my friend was raking up old shells and corals ; and
amongst the former were some large broken Doliums, all con-
taining crustaceans of the Anomura group. None were very
tine specimens, but later I was lucky enough to procure a fine
male and female of two species. These large Hermit Crabs are
not to be" easily dislodged from their borrowed habitations ;
every whorl of the shell to the last must be broken — and most
miserable the crab looks when out. He crawls helplessly about,
but will make eagerly for any shell offered, if he can only get
his tail in it, to hide which seems his great anxiety.

There is one species — I believe, the Pagurus punctulatus —
which grows to a great size : the fishermen tell me they have
taken it on the outer reefs over a foot long, with monstrous
chelae.

We add considerably to our stock of shrimps from the tide-
pools. The beautiful Stenopus hispidus (Lat.), once so rare, has
been often found lately close to this islet, and is a most attrac-
, tive object, of pure white, with scarlet, blue, and lilac patches
on the joints. We only saw a dead one on this day, but I have
a fine collection of them, procured at different times. The
beauty _par excellence is a shrimp I have only seen twice, and found
once, some time ago, and which I believe is still unnamed. The
Hippolyte of Sowerby is the nearest thing I know to it ; but it
has a pair of foliaceous appendages in front, in three divisions,
that float out gracefully when alive, but contract into little
more than a mere coloured line when dead ; and these mark it
quite a different species, if not a new genus. It is exquisitely
striated, edged with large patches of scarlet and brown, blue on a
pure white ground, making it very brilliant when in the water.

All this time the men were getting up corals round the islet,
and bringing them to us for inspection. To attempt any
description of their varied forms and beauty when taken from
the water would be quite useless, as I could give no adequate
notion of them to those who have never seen live corals. Many
were new to me, some possibly still undescribed by savans.
We might almost say with the poet, as we examine the curious
zoophytes we find amongst our treasures.

Involved in sea-wrack, here you find a race,
Which science doubting, knows not where to place ;
On shell or stone is dropped the embryo seed,
And quickly vegetates the vital breed.

Ch. XXL] LOBSTERS. 275

The tide rising rapidly, and the sun being in full blaze, we are
glad to take to the shelter of our boat's awning, and we slowly
leave the islet and steer towards Grrand Eiver mouth. One of
the men has picked up a fine specimen of the Flying Gurnard
(Dactylopterus volita7is),not quite dead, so that we see the rich
blue and scarlet shadings in the wing-like fins, which fade out
soon after death.

Fishermen may be seen on some parts of the reefs any time
in the twenty-four hours ; fish being sold twice a day in the Port
Louis market, and the best and freshest are to be got in the
afternoon. Several men are just in our route, so we hail them,
and ask for an inspection of their catches. I must say it is very
rarely we get a rude or surly reply. One has a quantity of
Ourites (Creole) or Poulpes only. They swarm all over the reefs,
and incalculable numbers are taken, the small ones for bait, and
the larger are sold for food, both fresh and salted. The imple-
ment for their capture is of the simplest, merely a long elastic
stick with an iron harpoon-like head, and this they thrust into
all the holes. When caught they dexterously turn the ugly
brute inside out, and thread it on a string slung round the
neck.

Another man has a large basket in which are two lobsters
(homards), as they are erroneously called here (Palinurus sp.).
There are six or seven species, some fine eating, and all bril-
liantly coloured. They have a mortal antipathy to the Ourite,
and advantage of this is taken to lure them from their holes.
A long tentacle of the latter is suspended at the entrance, when
there is a likelihood of finding a homard ; and no sooner does he
catch sight of the dreaded weapon covered with suckers, than
away he rushes in terror, and is soon caught by a noose of split
bamboo firmly fixed over his tail, though not without a struggle,
;md the fellow can inflict a sharp wound with his powerful
caudal spines. Care is taken not to place him near his enemy,
or the flesh will be spoilt before he gets to market, the creature
being literally sick from fright.

We pass a man who has collected curios for me a long time,
and he shows us a fine basket of mullets caught by line, the
Mulet voleur (Creole) — a delicate table fish when freshly caught,
unlike the larger mullets {Mulet sec), which, as their Creole

276 HOLOTHURIA. [Ch. XXI

name denotes, are dry, and have a strong flavour from the coarse
food they live on.

We are far from shore, yet above us, slowly winging its flight
out seaward, is a large butterfly, the Eujplooe Eiiploiie. I have
often seen the pretty Danais chrysippus, and even the stately
Phortante, out nearly as far as the Bell Buoy, though what
they seek over the restless waves is always a puzzit- to me.

Hundreds of Holothuriae lie on the bottom, particularly the
common Biche de men It is of a dark brown, and I believe of
the same species as the one so plentiful in the Chinese seas,
and eaten by the Celestials. I am not aware of its being an
article of food here. It is quite harmless, and will live a long-
while in a vessel of salt water. Very different is another species,
the Grratelle, which may not be handled with impunity, for it
causes most violent irritation of the skin when touched, and brings
out an eruption and swelling ; fortunately it only lasts a few
hoiu:s, and if bathed at once with the ' Ledum ' lotion, the pain
soon ceases.

This Holothuria, about the size and shape of a small cucum-
ber, is a mottled brown colour, and has to all appearance four
fins when taken ; but soon after capture it throws them all off,
and they swim about quite independently of the trunk. I have
at different times found at least twenty varieties of Holothuria
in Port Louis harbour, many of the most vivid hues. I once
kept a large one for inspection that was covered above with
thick red blunt bristles, and underneath with black ones, having
a flat white enamelled top. These bristles lengthened near the
mouth, which was surrounded by a circle of twenty very dark
maroon tentacles, with ciliated edges and delicate pink lining.
All over it were minute white shells stuck fast in the bristles.
Sand and small corals lay in the water, and I saw it pick them
up by closing the tentacles round them, and drawing them into
the bony-looking aperture. The intestinal canal terminates in an
opening twice as wide as the mouth, and is so transparent that it
can be traced, and its contents easily seen. In the same glass
were two others of different species ; but they both died in the
night, disgorging their whole insides, and lying across the large
one. They were so entangled that the live one could not move,
and this caused such excessive irritation, that though I care-
fully removed them early in the morning, the thin membrane

Ch. XXL] DOLABELLA. 277

burst, and the whole of the viscera protruded. The delicate pink
arborescent branchiae were all forced out, and a bundle of snow-
white and rose filaments several feet in length lay entangled
en masse in this animal ruin. The sand and coral debris forms
only a portion of their food, or perhaps may be taken only to
assist digestion, for some of them are very voracious, and I
have frequently found crabs and shrimps in their mouths.

We leave the flat reefs and pass over deep water, with occa-
sional masses of rock, and then cross the deep channel opposite
Grrand Kiver mouth. There we can see the famous Eound
Towers, part of the defences that once appeared so formidable,
but which would be of little avail against appliances and con-
trivances of modern warfare. Soon a bottom of sand and mud
is visible, and our curiosity is excited by black streaks in all
directions over it. I plunge in my rake, and they prove to be
the mouths of large Pinnae, but the shells are so fragile that
the teeth of the rake go through them; so, to procure some
perfect specimens, I jump overboard and dig them up. The
Pinnae are another enemy to the poor fishermen (whose pedal
coverino-s are often little more than old soles bound on with
rags), as they stand straight up in the mud with only the mouth
visible, and the edges of the shells make a gash like a knife.

I wade on to the shore, and here come upon one of our
luckiest finds to-day. The late breezes had brought up a
number of the curious Dolabella Rumphi. As its shell lies in
the back, almost covered with flesh, it is impossible to get it till
the animal is dead. We procure over a dozen fine ones, but
having been dead some time, all the deep lilac liquid, which
surrounds the shell in a membraneous sac when alive, had
disappeared. From one Dolabella I took on Barkly Island, somc^
time since, I got nearly half an ounce of the viscous liquid, which
retained its coloui even when dry. The very large ones would,
I have no doubt, yield twice as much, and I should think could
be used as a dye, for it stained everything it touched.

We stroll along the shore towards Petite Riviere ; but a few
common Venus and Nautica shells, some Hypneas and Ectocarpi,
being all we can find, we return to our boat.

High overhead, so high that they appear like white specks
against the deep blue sky, at intervals are seen the Boatswain or
Tropic birds (Phceton candidus), slowly wending their way

278 THE MUD LAFF. [Ch. XXI.

from the sea, where they have been feeding all day, to their inland
mountain homes.

Occasionally one will swoop down with the rapidity of light-
ning on some too-daring fish which has imprudently displayed its
silver sides, and with a plunge dexterously catching it in its
powerful bill, it soars up again till almost out of sight, to bear it
to his mate, who, sitting patiently on her one ^^^ on some
bristling crag, waits for her lord to bring her evening meal. It
is, however, rarely they return so late as this, so I suppose the
gentleman has been taking advantage of his liberty, and gone
a-roving ; or, having been unsuccessful in his fishing, dare not
return to Materfamilias with empty beak. If a sharp voice is
a sign of a vixenish temper, Mrs. Phaeton can scold to some
purpose when angry, her ordinary notes being a piercing screech.

It is quite time we are homeward bound, as we are far from

MUD LAPP.

the city, and a swell is rising that will put our men on their
mettle to make the harbour before nightfall.

We pass a little pirogue tossing about on the waves with two
men in it, one pulling and the other sorting his fish. As we
pull by him, to our questions as to what he has caught, after
showing us some packets assorted ready for sale, he held up one
of the most dreaded fish of the coast, the Mud Laff {Synanceia
hrackia), abundant all round the island, and considered good
food by the lower classes.

This most hideous and disgusting-looking fish averages from
16 to 18 inches in length. The spongy, wrinkled, leprous-like
skin is ordinarily blotched with white-grey and brown, on an olive

Ch. XXI.] POISONOUS FISH, 279

ground, but is generally so covered with mud and ^^ eeds that it
is only after a great deal of trouble that it can be cleaned so as
to show its true colours, as it seems to exude a glutinous matter
which, attracting anything it comes in- contact with, forms a
thick coat over the whole body. The dorsal resembles an
irregular row of tubercles, each with a spine rather than a fin,
and the short wide puffed-out pectorals give it a dull appearance
when swimming, as if it had a ruff round its neck. Being the
colour of the mud, it is difficult to distinguish it at a short
distance, and its very small bright eyes at the top of the head
enable it to lie in wait unseen by its victims ; the ventrals lie
flat in the ooze, and the uncouth head is drawn back so that
the great vertical mouth stands wide open to catch any unwary
fish that pass his way. The prey is sucked in and swallowed
and done for, but it is a sorry day when human hand or foot inad-
vertently touches it. I have hitherto managed to escape them
in my wadings in search of marine curiosities, but I always
keep a very sharp look-out, and wear the thickest of long boots.

G-rand Eiver, SE., is said to be especially infested with laffs,
and during a visit there the fishermen cautioned me about
going into the water, as I should be sure to be ' piqued.' How-
ever, I wished to make some experiments with this fish, so went
expressly with the hope of capturing some. The truth of their
abundance was soon verified, and an old expert that I had
taken the caution to secure as assistant quickly procured me
several specimens. We placed them alive in a vessel prepared
for the purpose.

One large brute I laid on a dish, and tickled him under the
pectorals, when the dorsal, which usually lies in a lumpy mass
on the back when undisturbed, was quickly raised, and in a few
seconds, when I touched the dorsal, the fish, with a spasmodic
effort, ejected a greenish slimy substance through the hollow
spines, and this I concluded to be the poison injected into
wounds, making them so difficult to cure. To prove the
dangerous nature of this poison, I punctured the ball of the
forepaw of a kitten with one of the front spines (said to be the
worst). The animal was immediately affected, and died of
convulsions in an hour.

I saw a poor fellow near Tamarind Bay who had trodden on a
laff, which wounded the ball of the great toe on the right foot.

U

28o

OCEAN VISIONS,

[Ch. XXI.

It was much swollen when I looked at it. I at once opened
the wound with a scalpel, and applied a strong solution of liquo.
ammonise to it. His comrades made a poultice of the leaves of
the Ehreti a petioles, and applied it ; and in about an hour's tim'^
he began to feel a little relief. I gave him also a good glass of
brandy to keep up his courage, for he was near fainting from
the agony he endured, and his state of alarm lest lockjaw should
ensue was pitiful to see. I afterwards learnt that he felt
the effects of the wound for a very long time. I have seen

THE OCEAN.

several such cases since, and one especially terrible in the
hospital, where the puncture was on the sole of the foot, and no
aid had been given till some hours after. The foot and leg-
swelled tremendously ; and after some days the wound sloughed,
leavino- a larg-e hole. It was over two months before the man
was able to be discharged.

There is a similar fish called the ' Laff des brisants,' of the
general colour of the mud laff, but with blotches of bright
scarlet on the body and pectorals, and the skin is tubercled all

Ch. XXI.] SUNSET. 281

over, particularly on the operculars and cheeks ; and even
when dried, the tubercles are still visible. Laffs appear to be
natives of all the warm waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans,
and everywhere are equally dreaded.

We approach some fishing-boats lying quietly in our route,
and are greeted with shouts and invectives, and find we are all
but entangled in their long seines, just laid out for the night's
fishing. Plying boats are hurrying home from the vessels
just arrived in the outer harbour, that have obtained traffic-
pratique, but too late to be towed in. The sun is fast sinking
below the horizon, and as he bids us farewell he sheds a part-
ing glory over land and sea. Airy visions of snow-capped hills
and sunny vales such as were never trod by mortal man, float-
ing slowly over the sky, charm our tired senses — landscapes
that fancy loves to sketch in the ever-changing sunset-tipped
clouds — visions as fleeting as most of earth's brightest dreams.

At last the flaming orb vanishes, our cloud-land scenes melt
into each other, snow and sunshine and storm curiously blent :
sombre greys steal over the brilliant tints, and a feeling of
chilliness creeps on us. We urge on our boatmen, and they
have enough to do to pull up to the Fanfaron by dark, as
twilight is of the most limited duration here.

CHAPTER XXir.

A TOUR BOUND THE ISLAND.

My Comrades and Preparations — Grand Eiver — Koenig's Tower — Eace-jockeys —
Denmark Hill — Point aux Caves — Caverns — Probable Origin of the Petite
Eiviere Caverns — Strange Sights — A Night on the Eocks — Fishing a la Pata-
trand — Plaines of St. Pierre — Grand Prospect from our Dining-room — Pight with
a Tazarre — Eempart Eiver — The Trois Mamelles — Catching Prawns — Tama-
rind Eiver and Bay — Catching Olives — Easpberries— Eats andTenrecs as Sharers
in our Bedroom — Up the Bed of the Eiver — Our Night's Lodging — Point Flinders
—Account of Captain Flinders — The Tamarind Falls — Geneve Estate — Black
Eiver — The Morne — Flying Foxes — Baie du Cap — A Python Creeper — The
Chamarel Falls — The Bel Ombre Estate — Jacotet Bay — Its Historic Interest —
Effect of the Winds on the neighbouring District — Eiver des Galets — Actinias —
A Marine Garden — Night-fishing — Falls of the Eiver des Galets — Bay of Souillac
— The Savane — The Bois Sec — Tree Ferns — Grand Bassin — Savane Falls —
Eiver du Poste — The Coast near the SoufiHeur — Pont Naturel — Bras de Mer de
Chaland — Point d'Esny — Grand Port — Isle Passe — Mahebourg — The Cemetery.

Haying made up my mind to take a tour round Mauritius, I
selected the month of July as mosfc suitable, the heat being
then not so oppressive, and the chances of rain less.

I invited an English officer, and a member of the medical
profession, to accompany me. For our outfit, a round double-
canvas tent, portable cooking apparatus (that had travelled
many thousand miles with me before), a small photo-camera,
and my tin vasculum, for the time-being filled with shirts
and socks, were all that we required. As the above items were
heavy and cumbersome, I employed two men with carrioles to
carry our baggage, and meet us at certain points, which I had
previously marked out as halting-places.

My object was to examine the coast, collect marine plants,
with the view of naming and classifying the Algae of the
island, and to make short excursions into the interior, so as to
obtain an accurate knowledge of the mountains and natural
curiosities from personal observation, as well as to photograph
them.

On a cool bracing morning I left Port Louis at daylight

Ch. XXIL] A TOUR. 283

and rode as far as Grrand River, where my friends joined me.
Over this river, which has its rise in the high lands of Plaines
Wilhems, is a neat substantial suspension-bridge, and the view
both seaward and inland is very pretty. Some distance up the
river are seen the grand proportions of the railway-bridge,
with the varied peaks of Mount Ory, and the Corps de G-arde as
a background, and the water ripples in tiny cascades over the
rocky bed till lost in the sea.

This ravine, during the months the river is low, is filled with
reeds and wild plants. One of the water-courses of the town
runs along its left bank, which is very steep. Springs of water
filter through it, and the constant moisture keeps it clothed
with a most luxuriant growth of ferns, especially the lovely
little Adiantum Capillus-venerisy which is very abundant. A
curious pea grows among the rank herbage, with a large brown
velvety seed-pod ; but beware of touching it, for it is one of the
cow-itch tribe, and the slightest contact fills the hands mth
innumerable minute hairs, which sting like a nettle, and quickly
inflame the parts touched. The pools in the river-bed abound
with the Neretina longispina and coronata, and the Nerita
zigzag. The former it is very difficult to procure perfect, as
they are devoured so ravenously by the rats which swarm in
this locality.

The banks and dry stones look as if a snow shower had
descended on them, for here are washed nearly the whole
of the clothes of Port Louis ; and watching the dhobies or
washermen at work, vigorously beating every article on the
stones, I no longer marvelled at my shirts and pants always
coming home buttonless and ragged : no fabric ever invented
could stand it.

Most of the cottages near the suspension-bridge have shrubs
and trees round them. The flamboyant and elegant Poincillade
{Poinciana pulcherrima), with the lilac Bougainvillaea, give
patches of colour that relieve the heavy foliage of the Bada-
niers and Jamrosas. But the whole village looks desolate, so
many houses are to let ; and the few that are inhabited, mostly in
disorder, give the place a ruinous look, considerably aided by
the thick coating of stone-dust from the high road which runs
through it. This, with the exception of the railwa}^ bridge, is
the main outlet from Port Louis to Plaines Wilhems.

284 KCENIGS TOWER. [Ch. XXII.

I noticed about here a very pretty sort of acacia, the
Moringa pterygosperma, or Brede Morungue, as the Creoles
call it. The leaves and white flowers are eaten as a vegetable,
and the very long rounded seed-pods are considered a great
delicacy when curried.

The view seaward extends many miles, and is enlivened by
pirogues and boats manned by fishermen returning from their
night's work for the early market in Port Louis. The former
are exactly like the American Indian dug-outs, hollowed out
of one solid- tree, generally the Colophane {Golophania Mauri-
tania). They require skilful handling, and considerable steadi-
ness when once seated in them, as they easily upset ; yet the
fishermen skim along with them with a single paddle, dancing
about from side to side, and rarely capsize them.

On the north bank of the river is a martello tower, com-
manding the whole bay at its mouth ; and near this bridge is
a large dam, from which an aqueduct carries a stream of water
that supplies the west of the city.

Just beyond Grand Elver are the Lunatic Asylum, Police
Station, and Vagrant Depot.

Here we started afoot, turning down the road by the latter
building, through a deep cut in the hill, passing close to the
house of the Honourable Mr. Koenig. This gentleman resides
on the summit of a hill commanding a fine view of the ocean ;
and near his house he erected a large high round tower,
which is still unfinished, and the joists which supported the
staging for the workmen still extend from the openings for the
windows.

I was informed that the Grovernment would not allow the
tower to be completed, as it was intended to occupy the various
stories as sleeping-rooms, and it was feared that the lights at
night would be seen far away at sea, and be mistaken for those
at the entrance of Port Louis harbour, and cause vessels to
strike the reef, which makes far out from the shore at this part
of the coast.

The road winds round a small lodge in front of Mr. Koenig's
house, down through a grove of tamarind-trees out into the
Plain of Petite Eiviere. Here the Grovernment had formerly
a military station, and some six or eight of the buildings are
still standing.

Ch. XXII.] ENGLISH JOCKEYS. 285

After we had gone about half a mile we came upon some
, jockeys on racehorses, who had preceded us on the road. Thev
told us this was the finest ground for training in the island.
They were exercising their horses for the races in August.
After listening some time to the merits of their steeds, one of
the jockeys informed us we should bet on ' Shadow,' as she was
sure to win. ' Look at them 'ere legs,' said he ; ' and there's a
heye ! Why, sir, she'll jump twenty feet at a spring ; she'll
go round that 'ere course like a swaller I '

We left them to their sport, and went on to make the most
of the cool morning, over about three miles of ground, nearh^
to Denmark Hill, the residence of the Dutch Consul. A small
lagoon interrupts the road, and on going round it we passed
some lime-kilns on the shore. Nearly all the lime in the
island is made of coral, which when burnt is of dazzlinof white-
ness, but is very liable, when used for mortar, to render build-
ings damp, and discolour plastering and paper in wet weather.
This inconvenience is caused by its containing too much muri-
ate of chalk and magnesia, which, uniting with the marine
salts, instantly attract damp, thus rendering houses unhealthy,
and accelerating the destruction of the wood which enters so
largely into the construction of all edifices here. Coral, when
taken from the old beds, is better than the fresh when burnt
for lime, on account of its being deprived of much of its saline
property.

The road up to the Consul's is shaded with fine trees, and a
large garden is attached to the house.

On the premises is a well, cut down through the solid rock
to the depth of 130 feet, which supplies the place with water.
Here we were most hospitably entertained, and did ample
justice to our breakfast after our long walk.

When we left we kept along the shore wherever possible, and
soon came upon the ruins of an old French fortification, an
earthwork ; and just in the rear were the remains of a number
of houses, which I suppose were formerly occupied by the French
soldiers, and round them rifle-pits, rudely constructed of loose
stones set in mortar. I presume the object of this fort was to
prevent the landing of men-of-war's boats, as it commanded an
opening in the reefs, where boats could pass in nearly all
weathers, as the sea rarely breaks across it.

286 TIDE-POOLS. [Ch. XXII.

. We found many curious plants in the tide-pools, a number of
which I secured for my collection.

The shore soon proved too tedious to proceed along it, being-
covered with huge boulders and detached rocks, and we were
glad to go up on the table-land.

There we had a fresh enemy, for the long coarse grass is full
of the most pertinacious of burs, that worked their way through
our clothes, annoying us exceedingly.'

We started hares, partridges, and quails, but they objected
to be shot. Hundreds of Nyna birds were whistling on the
trees, but whether it was a morning song or a right royal row
it would be difficult to say ; the noise was deafening till we
came near the Point aux Caves.

This bold headland terminates in huge masses of rock of
every conceivable shape, the sea breaking directly upon them.
The water is so deep that the Polyp that forms the coral has
not been able to build its cells there.

The tide-pools in this vicinity are full of beautiful and rare
fish, which I tried hard to capture with hook and spear. They
were exceedingly active, but when not disturbed they re-
mained floating perfectly motionless. The one we at last suc-
ceeded in catching was about five inches long, with large pec-
toral fins, similar to those of a flying-fish, only the rays were
very far apart, of a bright blue ; the web between was variegated,
and the dorsal fin large in proportion. It looked more like a
bird than a fish in the water, and had something the appearance
of a laff {Pterois volitans).

Whilst gathering shells I was attacked by an eel, called the
Anguille Morele. He was about three feet long, and when I
struck at him he came directly towards me, biting at my boots.
I beat him off and speared him, having provided myself with
a weapon in case of an attack from the Tazarre (^Sphyrcena sp.).
This singular eel is banded black and white, edged with salmon
colour, and has one round black spot on the white bands. It
is a fierce voracious creature, bolder than a snake, and in his
rage he runs his head out of the water like one. The bite of
this eel is venomous, I am told, but I have not heard of any
accidents from it.

* The Anthisteria ciliaia, and Avdrnpoaon lar.ceolatus.

Ch. XXII.] A NIGHTS LODGING, 287

When we reached the Point aux Caves, we found our two
men, Jumna and Baboo, with the carrioles, complaining bitterly
of the hard time they had had to get there. The road, I know,
was almost impassable for vehicles. Jumna said it was ' a
thief's road, and needed gold to pass over it.'

We pitched our tent on the bluff, and not twenty yards from
us

The breaking waves dashed high
On the stern and rock -bound shore.

When all was arranged, we sent our men to the nearest vil-
lage to buy some rice and fowls for our dinner.

While they were gone I prepared a line and hook, baited it
with a mussel, and threw it in the surf, and very soon caught
enough fish for a meal, of a species of Vielle (^Serranus). We
soon prepared them, and very nice they were, and we had made
quite a meal before the men returned. It was late ere they
made their appearance, telling long tales of the misery they
had had in their fowl search.

Towards nine we all turned in, well tired, and were soon
asleep ; but our slumbers were destined to be broken, for we
had enemies on all sides. Eats swarmed, and the next morning
we found the rock alive with them. A good plunge in the sea
refreshed us after our disturbed night, and we enjoyed our
coffee on the rocks, watching the fishing-boats drifting past.

As the name of this place imports, there is a large cavern,
which can be entered on foot at low water ; but it being then
high tide, we were obliged to take a small boat. We found a
number of the edible swallows'-nests and their eggs (the Gollo-
callia Francica). I was soon satisfied this was only an entrance
to the caverns running up to Petite Eiviere. I had visited
them once before and knew their locality, so proposed to my
friends to proceed thither after breakfast. We put some lunch
in our vasculums, and set off through a wild uncultivated tract,
with here and there a few scraggy Bois noir-trees. We reached
a Chinaman's shop, and provided ourselves with candles, and
went on to the entrance of the cave, which is close to the rail-
way station. The position is marked by clumps of aloes which
grow directly over it.

Large loose rocks and stones lie all round the entrance to
this cavern, which is of very remarkable formation. Creepers
and ferns cover the interstices of the rocks, particularly the

288 A CURIOUS CAVE, [Ch. XXII.

delicate plant the Amourette (QuaTnoclit pinnatum), with its
bright scarlet stars.

Pretty little lizards (Platydactylus cepedianus) flit about
in all directions, and soon after we entered the first cave we
saw innumerable eggs of this lively animal in groups of threes ;
but it was difficult to detach them from the rocks on account
of their fragility.

Cave No. 1 is about thirty feet wide and twenty feet high,
and visitors' names were carved all over it. Eude walking-sticks
were lying on the ground, left by former explorers, of which
we availed ourselves. We each lit a candle and proceeded to
examine this cave.

The bottom is of fine earth, but hard, smooth, and dry as a
macadamised road, and there is no perceptible dampness on
the sides. It is of an elliptical form, and has at first sight the
appearance of being the work of man. Numerous cracks and
fissures are visible. Small incrustations in the form of icicles
cover the vault, and fall and crumble at the touch. They are
composed of degraded rock and oxyde of iron, and formed by
the water percolating through the porous formation overhead.

On each side of this cavern, more perceptibly at the entrance,
there is a series of mouldings about two feet from the bottom,
which extends its entire length. The roundings and polish of
surface of these headings were probably formed by the water
being charged with carbonic acid gas, which is frequently dis-
engaged through fissures in the earth, particularly after earth-
quakes or great volcanic eruptions.

We explored cave after cave till we came to an aperture so
narrow that we had to pass on our hands and knees, and there we
stopped ; but I had seen enough to convince me that, though
now blocked up, they once extended to the one that has its
outlet at the Point aux Caves.

There is a perceptible slope downwards nearly the whole
length of the caverns. We did not find any inconvenience
from the heat mentioned by former explorers, though we re-
mained in one of the inner chambers nearly two hours.

For the dimensions of the different divisions I will give an
extract from Baron Grrant's work, which on this point I find
more accurate than some others I have seen : — ' The second
vault turns NE. quarter E., is 17 feet high and 21 feet broad,

Ch. XXI L] curious plant. 289

110 long, ground dry, with a kind of causeway 2\ feet high.
The third vault turns ENE. at one end, is only 4 feet high,
but rises to 12 feet ; it is 24 feet broad by 250 long ; ground
moist and damp, and contains small petrifactions. The fourth,
18 feet high, 27 broad, and 350 long ; parapets on the sides.
The fifth is 8 feet high, 18 broad, and 230 long; runs NW.
The sixth, 10 feet high, 20 broad, and 90 long. The seventh
runs W., 10 feet high, 16 broad, and 220 long. The eighth
runs WSW., 16 feet high, 18 broad, and 90 long. The ninth
runs SW., 7 feet high, 30 broad, and 170 long. The tenth,
12 feet high, 18 broad, and 96 long, runs NW. : part of
this vault has to be crawled through. The eleventh, 2 feet
high, 10 broad, 36 long: ground moist and vault in
ruins.'

We found the curious plant that Baron Grant mentions ' as
a singular plant full of milky juice, root thick as a finger, and
ten feet long, without branches.'

There is no appearance of leaf or bud on it, the extremities
are entire, and it is not uncommonly found in such places.^

As we returned to the mouth of the cavern, my impression
was that this entrance had been formed by the falling in of
part of the vaulted roof, as the large detached rocks proved.
In all probability an opening could be found to a much larger
cavern directly opposite, this one lying in a SE. direction, and
would be found to ramify with others extending over the whole
island. I examined about 1,000 feet beyond the caves by re-
moving the soil and tapping the rock with an iron crow-bar,
and could follow what I conceive to be the continuation of
them by the hollow sound produced. It appears to me there
is reason to believe that this was, ages ago, the course of a sub-
terranean river. We know for a fact that during earthquakes
rivers as well as lakes disappear under ground, sometimes
continuously, the water flowing through internal cracks, similar
to those produced on the surface, which form canals for its
passage.

This phenomenon is sometimes coincident with the appear-

' These plants are quite common in the interior of caverns in Virginia, and one
of a different species I found, some years ago, whilst on an exploring expedition
through the great Croton Aqueduct, New York.

290 SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS. [Ch. XXII.

ance of some abundant spring in a more or less distant place :
but it often happens also that the water nowhere re-appears,
and we must conclude it runs directly to the sea. This is
not at all improbable in this case, when we remember the
convulsions the whole island has undergone. Some river may
have been swallowed up by the earth, after a superficial course
of more or less extent, which forced its way through a subter-
ranean canal, till some fresh upheaval turned aside its course,
leaving the now empty caverns.

We have proofs of one subterranean river which makes its
appearance on the south-west coast, where a considerable body of
fresh water is forced up through the salt water that washes the
shore at Savane. There is also one on the property of M.
Ducasse, where there are two remarkable caves, not far from these
mentioned above. I have not seen them, but will give a slight
description of them, as I have heard it. One of them is still
traversed by a subterraneous stream.

The other has two large dry chambers, one nearly fifty feet
square, where it was said the festive board was often spread by
its former hospitable proprietor. Such scenes have long passed
away, and it now contains the tomb of the once generous
Amphitryon. This tomb is of massive 'masonry, similar to an
altar, on which, on the anniversary of his death, the friends and
relatives place flowers and lighted candles, and pray for the
repose of his soul. After passing this large cave, it is not
possible to penetrate for more than thirty or forty feet. I do
not doubt that all these caverns were formerly part of a con-
tinuous chain, extending at least through this whole district.

The railway crosses one part of these caverns, and as we left
them we stopped at the station of Petite Eiviere for a rest.
Master and men expressed their surprise that we should have
ventured so far into the ' womb of the earth,' as they termed it.
Nothing would have induced them to face its dangers. Strange
noises were heard there at night, and they were sure it was the
abode of evil spirits. One of the Malabars at the depot had
beheld dread things only a week before. A tall pale woman,
dressed in white, was seen, with two villanous-looking men
following her with axes in their hands, and calling out ' La mort,
la mort, la mort aux blancs ! ' Oftentimes music was heard,
to which they listened for hours ; and this was supposed to be

Ch. XXII.] POINT AUX CAVES. 291

the echo of the military band at Bourbon, as it was well known
the cavern passed all the way under the sea to that island I I
did not hear, however, of any one who had explored so far. All
sorts of stories were told us, to which of course we listened with
becoming gravity.

We diverged from the path we had traversed in the morn-
ing, but found the soil in this neighbourhood very poor and
rocky, covered with small stunted trees, low bush, and tangled
creepers, difficult to walk through. There are many sugar
plantations about this district ; but from the constant droughts
and scarcity of water, a man must have great courage to under-
take anything so arduous as sugar culture must be under the
circumstances.

As we approached Point aux Caves, we started several hares.
One was wounded by the lieutenant and secured by the doctor.
We also saw a few quails and partridges, some of which we
bagged, but they were troublesome shooting.

Next morning, long before the sun gave the least indication
of his coming to light us poor mortals on our way, the lieutenant
was stirring in true military style, and of course there was no
longer sleep for us ; so, after packing everything in its proper
place, the men were sent on with orders to meet us halfway
between Flicq-en-Flacq and Tamarind Bay. A strong cup of
Mauritius coffee — which, by the way, let me say, is delicious
(a present to us for our journey) — was soon ready; and it is
very strange to me that more planters do not cultivate it
extensively, for in the greater part of the island it grows well
and bears prolifically. Enough could easily be grown for home
consumption, if not for exportation. We lit our pipes, and
strolled along the sands till we came to a favourable spot for a
plunge, and afterwards set to work to look for curiosities. Alse
were abundant, and I found some fine specimens of the Geramiumi
Tuhrum and Pavonia padina. We hailed a pirogue to
take us to the reefs, to collect shells and corals. As we glided
over the clear waters, the rich beds of many-coloured madrepores,
echinoides, &C.5 formed a sight worth a good deal of trouble to
obtain. It looked like a parterre adorned with the richest
flowers ; but unfortunately there are so many lafFs and sharp
poisonous-spined fish lurking in every patch of sea-weed that the

292 FISHING A LA PATATRAND. [Ch. XXII.

greatest caution is necessary before grasping the lovely treasures
of ocean.

Here is another old French battery, some of the guns still
lying about half-buried in the sand. The further I travel in the
Island, the more I am astonished at the ease with which it was
conquered by the British — forts at every coin of vantage, men
enough to man them, the prestige of the impregnability of
the place in their favour, and hatred to the English supposed
to inflame every breast, all make the nearly bloodless victory
the more marvellous.

The shores are everywhere lined with the Ijpomcea maritima
and a pretty large-flowered vetch, which with their bright green
leaves and delicate flowers refresh the eye from the scorching
glare of the sun on the beach. The elastic tendrils of the first-
named plant are woven into a sort of net by the fishermen.
This is, however, forbidden by law ; yet, wherever it can be done
clandestinely, it is practised. It is called fishing a la Patatrand,
short for Patate a Durand, the Creole name for the plant.
This liane is stout and tough, and they knot the long branches
together, which when cleverly done makes a net that sweeps in
fish of all sizes, even to the smallest fry.

From Petite Eiviere the shore is rocky and difficult to pass
over, and as it approaches the Eiver Belle Isle it is bold and
steep. We forded this river, and at its mouth we found some
curious plants, two species of the Bostrychia, and a few fine
cones and other shells. We soon got into the plains of St.
Pierre. This large tract of country is almost free from rocks,
and possesses a very fair soil that could easily be cultivated,
and streams run through it which would serve for irrigation. It
appears to me cotton, maize, indigo, fruits, and vegetables would
grow well there, and yet how much of it lies desert, when
hundreds are all but starving. Nearly the whole* plain is
covered wit h long grass with sharp-spiked seeds, and different
species of burs, which were so troublesome that we were
obliged to return to the shore route. The wild jessamine
{Jasminum Mauritianum) ranks over every shrub, giving
out a soft perfume.

Soon after crossing the Eiviere des Gralets we found our men
with the baggage. They were busy bathing the ponies as we
got up to them ; and one, a spirited little piebald, got away, and

Ch. XXII.] A PLEASANT DINNER, 293

off he set, prancing and bounding with delight over the plain,
which formed a fine natural race-course.

He gave them a good deal of trouble before he allowed him-
self to be caught. Certainly no ponies in the world can beat
these little fellows. Small and slight, active as a deer, scantily
fed, and hardly worked, they will go through an amount of
toil in this hot climate which would soon kill a strong English
horse. Few are bred here ; they are imported from Timor,
Penang, and other Indian islands. The Arab ports on the Eed
Sea, the Cape, and Australia send also a great number of ponies
and horses to the Mauritius yearly. Many Breton and Norman
horses are used too, but few English, as they do not thrive
well.

We pitched our tent near the sea, close to the Wolmar estate.
Baboo and Jumna had brought fowls, rice, and all indispensables
for curries and chutneys, and very soon such a dish of both was
set before us as an Indian alone could concoct. We had had a
hard day's walking, and enjoyed our dinner as only hungry
travellers do. Very few dining-rooms can boast of such a view
as we had before us. The Corps de Garde and Bamboo Moun-
tain lay in the distance, and the Rempart Mountain, Trois
Mamelles, and the long range terminating in the bleak cliffs of
the Morne, were all visible. The oblique rays of the setting sun
partially lighted up their steep sides ; the heavy shadows were
gathering slowly along the valleys, and here and there a clump
of tall cocoa-nut trees or bamboos would stand out clear and
distinct against the brilliant sky ; and upon everything near
lay the rich indefinable colour that frequently overspreads the
earth at sunset.

It was a contest with us between eyes and mouth, and I fear
that the savoury dishes of Messrs. Jumna and Baboo gave the
victory to the latter for some time ; but, the inner man once
satisfied, we lay and gazed in silent admiration on the landscape
nature had drawn for our benefit for the time being.

The reefs lie about a mile from the shore at this point, and
at low water are quite bare. We lost no opportunity of adding
to our collection from the tide-pools, but we had to be very
cautious, as both the Anguille Patna and Morele abound there.
On all my excursions to the reefs I carried with me a good-sized
harpoon, mounted on a pole eight feet long, a precaution of which

294 A FIGHTING FISH. [Ch. XXII.

I found the advantage at this place. On the following day
I was wading off to the re^f in elegant costume — pants tucked
up into a high pair of thick boots, an old flannel shirt and
slouched hat, a hag over my shoulders for shells, in good fight-
ing trim — when I was attacked by a tazarre, a fish something
like a fresh-water pike.

The brute was a good-sized one, and came right at me like a
bulldog. I had seen him a minute before, and so was ready
for him, and planted my harpoon directly in his side ; but he
got away and made a second charge.

This time he was struck in the head, and I held him fast,
though it taxed my strength. I did not well know what to do
with him, as he wriggled on my weapon, so hailed a pirogue
with two men in it. They said I had done well to capture it,
as it was not easy to spear such a large one.

We agreed to make tracks for the Eempart Eiver, and
attempt the ascent of the Trois Mamelles. On our route we
had to pass through a Malabar camp ; and such a howling and
yelling of cur dogs I never heard, and we all wished the Port
Louis dog-killing laws were in force here before we got through.

From the bridge that spanned the Eempart Eiver one of the
prettiest views in the island is obtained. Looking up the
stream, numerous cascades are seen as it winds through the
ravine ; on its banks are the graceful bamboos waving in the
breeze that swept down the river, and the singular rugged
peaks of the Trois Mamelles stood out clearly defined against
the bright blue sky. This spot took my fancy so much that I
obtained one of my best photographs here. We breakfasted on
the banks of the river, in a spot covered with ferns, and close to
a bed of deliciously fresh young water-cresses.

We crossed the valley, which is encumbered with rocks, till
we reached the foot of the mountain, where we found a man
cutting wood. He offered to guide us up, but declared it was
impossible to reach the summit. We accepted his services, and
found it pretty sharp climbing, even dangerous in some places.
We ascended a narrow path, through thick underwood and
loose stones and rocks, till we were a thousand feet above the
level of the sea. Here we halted, and had a clear view over the
plains of St. Pierre, with the Black Eiver Mountains in the
distance, and the sharp peaks of the Chamarel, which, with the

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Ch. XXI I.] TROIS MAMELLES. 295

exception of the Piton de la Petite Eiviere Noire, are the
highest in the island, being 2,902 feet in height.

The highest peak of the Trois Mamelles is 340 feet, and the
three are almost bare of vegetation to their summits, with the
exception of the Orchilla plant, which covered them, and which
if carefully gathered might be made a profitable article of
commerce from the valuable dye it yields, and a few ferns. In
the clefts of the rocks grow the Pterispedata and Eadiata, a
Nephrodium, and two Aspidiaceae.

Towards the base ranked the Cascavelle {Croialaria retusa),
the Dichondra repens, and the Taberncemontana parviflora.

From the rugged barrenness of this triple-headed mountain a
geologist has little difficulty in tracing the volcanic action once
at work on it. These rocks, which are basaltic, rise almost
perpendicularly, and have the appearance of being cut straight
down from the summit to the shoulder, the highest point we
could attain. Seen from a distance they look like the ruins of
some giant's stronghold. As I lay resting, I pictured to myself
the time when the plain at the base of the inner side of this
mountain was a lake of liquid fire surging up against the solid
barrier, and in process of time thinning the mighty wall, aided
from without by the action of the elements. As the seething
mass cooled down and contraction ensued, probably the first
fissures were made in the then thin crust. Fresh eruptions sent
a boiling torrent of lava through the openings, forcing its way
to the sea. Every succeeding hurricane hurled down masses of
disintegrated rocks, and piled them in the fantastic heaps
where they now lie. The powerful forces of light, air, and
water have been silently at work through countless centuries,
gradually wearing away the rough edges of the fissures, and
degrading fresh material that appears waiting the slightest
touch to fall on the audacious intruder in these solitudes.

The Eempart River takes its rise in one of the mountains of
which range the Trois Mamelles form a part. The fountain-
head falls into a small basin, forming a cascade, and then flows
on through the underwood till it reaches what was formerly a
forest, but now the trees are sparse and stunted. After our
descent from the Trois Mamelles, we amused ourselves catching
prawns {Palcemon carcinus), which abound in this river. They
are here called ' Camerons;' that, I suspect, is the old Portuguese

296 PRAWN FISHING. [Ch. XXII.

name for them. A noose is made of strong thread or split
bamboo, and suspended over their hiding-places, and a bait (a
bit of thread is the best thing) is put just in front of the
snare. As soon as the prawn takes the bait the noose is drawn
tightly over his body and he is secured. The large ones show
fight, and strike so sharply with their tails as to draw blood if
not carefully handled. The lieutenant, who had never seen
them in their watery element before, enjoyed the sport, and was
the first to take a fine large one. He held it up exultingly to
the doctor and myself, saying, ' Look there, boys; come here and
take a lesson how to catch prawns ; it takes this individual to
do it artistically,' &c. &c. We stood his chaffing quietly,
waiting to see him take the prawn off the noose, when all at
once the animal nipped him so severely that he let it drop into
the water again, with an expletive more forcible than polite.
It was our turn to laugh now, and we didn't spare our friend.
This fresh-water prawn is indigenous to the island, and there
is another species caught in the sea, but not so tine. It is also
a native of the Seychelles.

Whilst busily engaged with our prawns, of which we snared
enough for our supper, heavy clouds gathered round the summits
of the mountains, and hid them from our view, and we had but
just time to reach our tent when the rain came pattering down.
After our day's climbing, fresh prawns and water-cress were
not to be despised whilst waiting for Jumna's supper ; and we
didn't forget to toast the lieutenant's expertness in catching-
prawns. Thanks to our double tent, we could afford to laugh
at the rain ; and next morning we broke up our camp, and moved
along the coast towards Tamarind Bay. The shore here is flat,
and the reefs in some places run two miles out from it. We
sent on our people to the left bank of the Tamarind Eiver, near
the bridge.

This is a fine bay, in some places very deep. We hired a
pirogue at the lime-kilns, and embarked from a small jetty
which ran out into the sea. The waves were breaking over the
reef, and it wanted considerable skill to guide so ticklish a craft
through them. Our object was to fish for Olives, which are
so plentiful, and of great beauty and variety on the Mauritius
reefs. We baited about five hundred feet of lines, and after a
great deal of patience got a splendid haul. It is singular that

Ch. XXII.] RARE LIZARD, 297

though this anipaal is so abundant, it is rarely that the dead
shells are found on the shore.

At the jetty I observed a curious black lizard, very active,
about five inches in length, that seemed to feed on something
in the water. It was very shy, and would hide below the rocks
as I approached it. It appeared partly amphibious, and would
dart into the waves, seize its prey, and return to its hole. I tried
in vain to capture one. I was at first inclined to believe it
was a triton, but the form of the tail did not warrant the conclu-
sion, as it was very thick, and terminated in a point, and not
formed for swimming. Eound the whole of Tamarind Bay
grow patches of the bright yellow-flowered creeper, the Gas-
sythafiliformis, with an abundance of low shrubs and plants,
but none needing special mention. On the right of the bay,
just at the foot of the Tamarind Mountain, stands a small vil-
lage principally occupied by fishermen. A brisk trade in fish
is at present carried on, as the men can now take their produce
by rail to the inland villages twice a day.

We passed the bay, and kept up the river, which was par-
tially dry, and in many places encumbered with groups of boul-
ders, and everywhere showed a rocky bed. The banks were
covered with ferns, a species of Nen'^phar and bright Amourette,
while thousands of plants of the wild raspberry (Rubus ccesius),
then in flower, filled the interstices between the rocks. Most
deceptive of fruits ! The leaf is totally different from the Euro-
pean species, and the plant only grows about two or three feet
high, but the berry exactly resembles it, with only one exception.
Hot and tired, you pluck a bunch, anticipating the delicious
flavour of those of our northern climes, when you find, to your
great disappointment, that it is almost tasteless.

We arrived at the bridge by the afternoon, which is placed
in as romantic a spot as the one at Eempart Eiver.

After dinner we found, to our annoyance, that we were not
the only occupants of our tent. We killed two small scorpions
without much trouble, but the rats were not so easily disposed
of. First they ate up my arsenical soap ; and though it grati-
fied me to know it would be their last meal, having made it
doubly strong on account of the insect plagues here, still I did
not feel that indemnified me for its loss. Whilst we slept they
devoured a great part of a fine boiled ham, and spoilt the rest.

298 BROKEN SLUMBERS. [Ch. XXII.

I was awakened by some one calling out, ' Do the rats trouble
you ? ' I answered ' No ; ' wben the lieutenant said, ' I have
started two, and shall strike a light ; ' and a pretty scene we had
of it when we were illuminated. Our tent had been pitched on
what I suppose must have been the burrow of a family of Ten-
recs {Centetes escaudatus). The doctor killed one with the
blow of a large knife ; and the servants being called, we captured
several, which grunted and squeaked like so many little pigs,
and are said to be very good eating. They breed most proli-
fically, as each litter has from sixteen to twenty-five young
ones ; so I presume we had disturbed a mother and her babies.

Even the lieutenant's indomitable early rising was put a
stop to for once, after our sleepless night. Baboo and Jumna
had the best of it, as they had joined the two carrioles, sup-
porting the shafts with their seats, and thus formed a capital
bed under the covered tops. The old Creole who had guided
us up the Trois Mamelles came in the night, and not daring to
disturb us, stretched himself under the carrioles, and had a
sound nap too.

As soon as we could rouse ourselves, and had had the unfailing
pipe and coffee, we packed up eatables for twelve hours at least,
making up our minds to a hard day's work. We started up the
bed of the river, jumping from rock to rock till we came to
where the water was barely ankle deep. But the lieutenant
found it too rough for him, and turned back. When he was
gone, the doctor and myself examined the pools in the river,
and found some small perch, camerons, &c. ; also three kinds of
shells, the same as those in the bed of Grrand Eiver, the usual
Conferva, two species of Chara, Thydrodicton, Utricularia, &c.
The banks are here steep and high, and looked like impassable
barriers ; but our guide persisted in going on, as he said he
knew the place well. We ascended the bank, grasping at old
roots and stumps, anything to help us up, till we arrived safely
at the table-land above.

We were now about two miles from the Tamarind Falls, too
late to return, so we looked out for a shelter for the night, and
as the sun was rapidly sinking we had to make the most of our
time. The old Creole soon found us an unoccupied shanty,
rough enough to be sure, but better than the open air.
We cleaned it out, and covering the interior with boughs and

Ch. XXII.] TAMARIND FALLS. 299

bushes, soon made it comfortable, and then dispatched Jumna
and the guide for bread and wine to a small village near. The
doctor and myself meanwhile devoured the remnants of our
tiffin, which were very slight, our appetite in the day having
been prodigious. However, a pipe solaced us till the man re-
turned with indifferent bread and worse wine, and some dried
fish called ' Bombay Ducks ' (Saurus), which they grilled ; and
hunger enabled us to make a hearty meal, and get a sound
sleep on our cut bushes.

Out in the early morning, inhaling the sharp breeze, and
eager to pay our visit to the far-famed Tamarind P^'alls. The
ravine is almost impassable, as the bank rises abruptly from the
river, which is here very deep ; but we found a path just above
the left bank, going through the estate of ' Mendrain. ' From
our position the Corps de Grarde,Trois Mamelles, Mount Orey,and
others, extending as far as the Peter Both, appeared as one vast
continuous chain, and the intervening country was green with
canes in every stage of growth. After working our way up to
a good distance, we came to a spot called Point Flinders,
where the bushes have been cut away to give a good view of
the Falls.

This estate was formerly owned by a Mr. De Chazal, and here
he entertained the celebrated navigator Captain Flinders, who
had been taken prisoner by the French, and kept on parole. A
small kiosque was erected for him on this romantic spot, for
here he spent much of his time, and it has ever since retained
his name Then it was covered with forest ; now the forest is
non est, and canes are ; and what was once a rendezvous for
artists and tourists is fast losing its celebrity.

The adventures of Captain Flinders were of so extraordinary
a nature that I give a brief outline of them : —

Captain Matthew Flinders was appointed, in 1801, by the
British Government, as commander of the ' Investigator,' to visit
New Holland, or the Grreat South Land — to clear up all doubts as
to the unity of this great region, open up new ports for seamen,
and for the advancement of natural knowledge in various
branches — besides laying down charts of the neighbouring seas,
for the benefit of geography and navigation. In 1 803 the ' In-
vestigator ' was so badly injured among the reefs near Torres
Straits that she was condemned. He then tried to finish his

300 CAPTAIN FLINDERS. [Ch. XXII.

survey with the ' Porpoise,' ' Cato,' and ' Bridge water.' The
two former were, however, wrecked at a place named ' Wreck
Reef,' in lat. 23° 22', long. 155° 34', in August of the same year.
' The Bridgewater,' afraid of sharing the same fate, steered
away ; and, instead of remaining to see if there were any sur-
vivors of the catastrophe, her captain sailed to India, spread-
ing the report everywhere that both vessels were entirely lost,
with all on board. Strange to say, this ship in her next voyage
was wrecked or sunk, and never heard of after — a fitting retri-
bution, if cowardice or ill-feeling had prevented her captain
from assisting his wrecked comrades.

Taking a small crew in one of the six-oared cutters, and leaving
the rest in charge of Lieutenants Fowler and Flinders, Captain
Flinders set out to make his way to Port Jackson for help.
The men left behind were set to work to build two decked boats,
in case that no tidings of the captain and his crew should
arrive. They had to voyage in an open boat 250 leagues, along
a strange coast inhabited by ferocious savages, a greater part of
the way ; but they succeeded in reaching Sydney in eleven days.
The ' Rolla ' was at once fitted out by the Governor, and sent to
the relief of the men at Wreck Reef, who had been fortunate
enough to save a good deal of property from the two vessels.

The schooner ' Cumberland,' a small Grravesend passage-boat
of only twenty-nine tons, was given to Captain Flinders, who
was anxious to make his way quickly to England to get further
help to finish his work, as well as to contradict the reports of
his death. The small size of the vessel made it necessary to
stop at every convenient port ; so Captain Flinders proposed
Coepang Bay in Timor, Mauritius, Cape of Grood Hope, St. He-
lena, and some of the western isles. Grovernor King did not
wish him to go to Mauritius, as he did not care to encourage
communication between French colonies and Port Jackson. The
master, however, was left to his own judgment, and two letters
were given him for the Grovernor of Mauritius, in case of need.
When near the island, he found his boat requiring repairs and
stores, so much so that he was afraid of risking a longer voyage ;
and, ignorant of the fact that war had broken out between
Great Britain and France, he steered direct for Mauritius, and
made the land at Baie du Cap.

He did not speak French, but had a passport formerly given

Ch. XXII.] HIS CAPTIVITY. -jor

him in that language, but unfortunately made out for the ' In-
vestigator.' However, he presented it with the letters for the
Grovernor, and told his tale of the daring feat he had accom-
plished. As soon as these papers were forwarded to Clovernor-
Greneral De Caen, and he saw a passport not made out for the
' Cumberland,' he refused to believe his story, called him an im-
postor, and seized the boat, putting Flinders in temporary con-
finement, and taking away from him all his papers, charts, log
and journal, pretending that many passages in the latter proved
him to be a spy. Many British vessels at this time were seized
by the French in the Indian Ocean, and the prisoners taken
were kept in a place somewhere at the Jardin Despeaux, Plaine
Verte, and Captain Flinders was confined with them.

Rewrote letter upon letter of remonstrance to De Caen, but
received only abuse in reply. His sword, and even his spy-glass,
were taken from him. Finding that it was hopeless to expect
release, he begged to have his charts and books returned, that
he might complete his work so far, while it was still fresh in
his memory. The charts, after much delay, were sent to him,
but the books denied.

To atone as far as possible for De Caen's severity, he was
treated with the greatest kindness and sympathy by many French
gentlemen ; and whenever any officer had to bring any harsh
message, it was done with perfect courtesy, and apologetically,
as everyone pitied his hard case. After two years spent in Port
Louis, as his health suffered much, he was allowed a residence at
Vacoa, called the Refuge — on parole.

It appears that in 1804 a decree had been passed in Paris ' to
approve the conduct of Greneral De Caen, but from a pure sen-
timent of generosity to grant Captain Flinders liberty and
the restoration of the " Cumberland.''^ ' This decision laid over
till 1806 for the approval of the Emperor, but it was not till
1807 that it arrived in Mauritius, though it is said De Caen
knew of it on its first passing.

Captain Flinders was at last allowed to return to Port Louis.
His books, sword, and spy-glass were returned ; but no entreaties
could procure his despatches, log-book, and the third volume of
his journal, though many gentlemen tried to intercede with De
Caen for them. The ' Cumberland ' was not given up to him,
and every possible hindrance was thrown in the way of his

302 CASCADES. [Ch. XXII.

leaving. It is supposed he was still detained on account of the
war between England and France ; and after the most vexatious
harassings, it was not till March 1810 that the welcome news
was brought to him that he was to sail in the cartel ' Harriet,'
on condition that he would engage not to serve against France
during the war. The ' Harriet,' however, was not forthcoming,
and leave was granted him to proceed to the Cape in the sloop
of war ' Otter,' in June. He had thus endured a captivity of six
years, five months, and twenty-seven days — a lasting disgrace
to the memory of De Caen, and which caused the greatest dis-
satisfaction amongst the people generally. He never succeeded
in recovering either the log or the third volume of his journal.
A most interesting account was written by Captain Flinders of
his work and troubles at New Holland, his captivity in Mau-
ritius, and his liomeward voyage, and it is from these volumes
that I have gleaned the above account of this celebrated man.

The Tamarind Falls are seven in number, and form a series
of cascades of great beauty, and as they descend over the rocks
at different heights, the various sounds blend with a strange
harmony to our ears. One part of the Falls is formed by a break
in the Tamarind River, and the others by streams that flow into
it, and the united height of the whole seven is over 300 feet.

Fretted with sands and rocks, and swept by the winds from the mountain,
Numberless torrents with ceaseless sound descend to the ocean,
Like the great chords of a harp in loud and solemn vibration.

The Falls were to our left, and before us rose a wall of rock.
Its steep sides were partly bare of vegetation, with scattered
tufts of verdure sown by the winds or birds ; but its summit
was covered with a dense belt of old trees, the many blasted
heads and withered trunks bearing witness to their struggle?
with the elements. In the deep ravine below us lay the
river, which, after receiving the turbulent waters of the cascade,
flows silently on to the ocean. To the right stood out a gigantic
beetling crag, flinging its broad black shadow right across the
ravine, and forming a singular gorge with the opposite moun-
tains. Through the opening is obtained a lovely picture,
looking brighter and sunnier for the dark frowning hills we
saw it through — a glimpse of the brilliant green waters of the
ocean, as they touch a strip of dazzling coral sand, and then

Ch. XXIL] black river. 303

gradually change to the deepest blue in the distance ; the
river joining the sea ; a bridge ; a few vacoas — things so slight
in themselves, yet when combined as they are there, all made
up a scene that held us entranced. On whichever side we
looked was some beauty, each perfect in its kind, each different,
which, with the elastic purity of the atmosphere, so acted on
our senses, that I know not how long we should have remained
if the demon of hunger, which the loveliest of scenery cannot
exorcise, had not made his appearance ; and with a sigh we
rose, for we had a long vray to go back to our quarters.

We made our way as well as we could over the rocks in the
river, but were terribly fatigued on our arrival, and found
the lieutenant somewhat alarmed at our long absence. Our
description of the ramble made him regret he had not shared
it, though he laughed at our enthusiasm about its beauty.
Our next halting-place was to be the Black Eiver ; and thither
we sent Jumna and Baboo, ourselves taking a less direct
route.

We crossed a spur of the Tamarind Mountain, and had a fine
view of the Black Eiver valley, the craggy precipitous sides
of the mountain, and the estate of Geneve ; while the peaks of
the Chamarel loomed in the distance, brilliantly lit up by the
sun, which is the first land made by mariners coming from
Madagascar.

We ascended to the Greneve sugar plantation, and examined
the ruins of the fine mills, caused by the hurricane of 1868.
This estate is nearly nine square miles in extent, and is about
twenty-one miles distant from Port Louis. It has belonged to
the same family for over half a century. It is the one men-
tioned by Bernadin St.-Pierre, and, if I recollect rightly, it was
from this place Paul and Virginia walked one fine morning
before breakfast to their home on the Latanier Eiver, close to
the city. I don't wonder at Paul having to carry her, unless
the roads through the forests were different from their present
state.

Deer and monkeys abound here, and are said to be very
troublesome, though the greatest plagues are the wild hogs,
which do much mischief to the plantations. The military post
of Black Eiver is on this estate. In former times this was con-
sidered one of the most important posts in the island, and its

304

THE MORNE.

[Ch. XXII.

approach was strongly guarded. On the east was the batter}-
of Lapreneuse, of six guns ; about 600 yards farther back is
another of these guns ; a battery of two more flanked the canton-
ment, and on the opposite side of the anchorage was the La
Harmoine battery, mounting twelve guns. Of all these formid-
able defences the only remains are a few rusty cannon and a
heap of ruins. The country hereabouts is highly cultivated
with fine cane crops, and the road passes along an avenue of
large tamarind-trees, many of which were uprooted, and most
of them severely injured, by the cyclone.

THE MORNE.

The road here winds round a small bay, and passes a plain
covered with long grass, which, though troublesome, was a better
path than the shore, which was very steep and rocky. The bold
promontory of the Morne now rose before us in all its grandeur.
The inner side, nearly perpendicular, is the only remaining wall
seaward of a great crater, of which the Isle of Fourneaux, not
far from the shore, once formed a part.

ch. XXI l] wild tobacco. 305

We had heard very much of the difficulty of ascending this
solitary giant, but the trial looked so well worthy that we
resolved to attempt it. Formerly, when densely wooded, it was
•considered one of the securest strongholds in the island, and
was greatly resorted to by Maroons, who gave infinite trouble
to the gendarmes before they could be dislodged. We got an
old Creole, wlio lived near, to accompany us, and by his advice
provided ourselves with ropes and hatchets to aid us in the
ascent. We found the toil of climbing fully equal to anything
we had heard of it. A greater part of the day was spent in our
task. Sometimes our path lay through dense thickets and
climbers intertwined in every conceivable form, and we were
at times compelled to lay about us vigorously with our hatchets
before we could pass.

Here grow the pretty little liane, the Glitoria Ternatea, the
Cascavelle, and a species of Clematis ; but the latter is not
so fragrant as the European. The wild tobacco (Solanum
auriculatum) flourished in the open spots, two species of
Hibiscus, the Horonga Thoninia, and the common Mallow
{Malva crispa), which is used here as elsewhere as an emollient.
Sometimes, after an opening was made, we came suddenly on a
perfectly perpendicular rock of fifteen or twenty feet, without
foothold sufficient for a cat to scale. The only resource was
attaching our good three-inch ropes to stones and flinging
them up till they caught in the branches or roots above, and
so hauling ourselves up. I believe the ascent of the Morne is
quite equal in danger and fatigue to that of the Peter Both.

Weary and exhausted, we reached the little plateau at the top,
and were glad of the spring there, of which we had heard but
feared might be a myth.

As soon as we were sufficiently rested to appreciate our posi-
tion, we felt that the spectacle from this giddy pinnacle was
worth all the labour of mounting to it.

The broad blue ocean bounded our view on one side, glittering
in the brilliant rays of the descending sun. The singular
triangular-shaped island of the Morne was visible, and the Cap
de Brabant, the SW. point of Mauritius. The encircling chain
of coral reefs could be distinctly traced by the line of foam as
far as the eye could reach, indicating the breakers that form so
dangerous a fringe to the greater part of this coast. The white

3o6 FAHAME, [Ch. XXII.

sails of passing merchantmen could be seen, India-bomid or
making for the Island, and numberless fishing craft. The view
inland was, if possible, still more imposing. We could see the
picturesque gorges of the Black Eiver Mountains — all below
in the deepest shadow, in strange contrast to the highly
illuminated verdure crowning every summit. Nearly the whole
range is basaltic, the Morne also. As I looked down from its
steep sides, the only remains of what was once the vast wall
against which the sea broke in vain till the action of fire within
assisted the work of the waves, I could not help imagining
the grand and awful sight it must have been when the boiling-
lava and the roaring waves met, when crag after crag went
down, and contrasting it with its present peaceful aspect.

The little plateau is sheltered on one side by an overhanging
cliff, and is nearly covered with trees and bushes : these we cut
and piled up, and, with our good baskets of provisions, made
ourselves tolerably comfortable for the night. It was bad enough
to climb, but worse to descend ; and we narrowly escaped coming
to grief very often, there is so little surface soil ; the roots,
having slight hold, frequently gave way with our ropes round
them, and occasionally expedited our descent far from agreeably.
However, we escaped with a few bruises.

On this mountain also the Orchella plant grows, and a small
tree of the Locust family, the dry pods of which are sweet, and
we ate of them freely. Vast numbers of the Samlongue
{Syzygium Jambolanum) grow here and on the Black Eiver
chain, and their dark foliage gives a sombre character to the
scene. In the moist forest-earth grows the celebrated Fahame
{Angrcecwtn fragrans). According to Creole authorities, it
contains within its slender fronds virtues to cure no end of
diseases. Consumption itself must even yield to Fahame !
The aromatic principle has been extracted from this fern by a
chemist here, and the faculty all appear to agree that it is a
very useful therapeutic agent.

Many fine indigenous trees grow in this locality of whose
names and uses I am ignorant. I recognised only the Mijifiusops
Erythroxylon and the Gallophyllum spectabile. As we went
down the valley of the Morne we came upon what had once
been a sugar plantation ; but sugar-mill and houses were all
going to decay, and the desolate grass-grown place told its

Ch. XXI I.] SOLITUDE. 307

own tale of ruin. This valley was once a very large crater, two
or three miles in width, but the revolutions of ages have nearly
filled it up with detached rocks and debris from the deep sides
of the Morne and Black Eiver Mountains. There is every reason
to believe that after the subsidence of the great crater in the
interior, and the large adventitious ones, many smaller ones
opened, which were very active. We see this just beyond the
valley of the Morne, where there is a small crater of compara-
tively recent date.

The road we passed over was built by the Grovernment, and
is called the Military Eoad. For some distance it is ornamented
with a hedge of Campeche on both sides. I wonder this shrub
is not more used for this purpose, it grows so rapidly, and when
cut looks well. We came out of this road into a grove of lofty
Filaos ; and we could not help noticing the profound stillness of
the place, save for the melancholy soughing of the wind through
the trees, and an occasional mournful cry of a ring-dove. As
we pushed on we came suddenly upon an old man hoeing a
small patch of maize ; we saw no habitation, and from tb(^ curt
replies we got to our questions as to our whereabouts, he
seemed to think us intruders.

We struck out along the shore, which for some distance is
Tocky, but at length gained the open beach, and soon found a
pretty spot to pitch our tent on a little promontory.

The spur of the mountains terminates here abruptly, the sides
of which were covered with trees and shrubs — a wild-looking
place. Under the craggy cliff two or three Creole fishermen
live with their families in miserable thatched shanties. It was
nearly dark before our tent was ready, and a steady rain came
down that made us anxious about our men and horses. We
offered to pay the Creoles to let them have an empty hut
for the night, but they refused, as they said they did not want
anything to do with 'les Anglais.' However, on Sumna and
Baboo explaining that the horses belonged to them, they were
immediately taken in and all comfortably provided for. Eats
and Tenrecs disturbed our slumbers, and in addition we had the
peculiar bat, called the 'Flying Fox' (^Pter opus edulis). It
makes a barking noise similar to the yelp of a lap-dog. Near
our quarters were a grove of aloes, of which this animal is very
fond, on account of the honey its flowers contain, I suppose ;

Y

3o8 BAIE DU CAP. [Ch. XXII.

it also eats the tender Badanier nut greedily, and when the
Litchis are in season, they are so destructive that they will
often strip a plantation in a night.

We killed one for a specimen, which measured three feet four
inches from tip to tip of the wings.

Sleep being impossible, we all went out for a stroll on the
beach. The wind was fresh from the SE. and the sea was
breaking furiously over the reefs ; and as the foaming waters
caught the glittering rays of the moon, they were lit up with a
magic brilliancy —

Making the restless plain
As the vast shining floor of some dread fane,
All paved with glass and fire.

Soon after daylight we crossed a strip of beach, and emerged
on a large grassy plain, on which grew numbers of the Veloutiers.
Both kinds of the Veloutier flourish there, the SccEVola Konigii
and the Tonrnefortia argentea ; and the liane Canavalia oh-
tusifolia ranks over all the shrubs. A sort of wild Betel, the
Ehretia petiolaris, is also abundant. This plant grows on nearly
the whole seaboard, and the fishermen make use of it as a
remedy for the dangerous wounds made by the Laff. The
leaves are macerated and made into poultices ; but if really a
cure for the poison of the spines of this fish I cannot assert,
though I have seen it assuage the pain considerably. The
Indigo/era compressa is also wild in this neighbourhood, and
does not alone possess its valuable dye, but is supposed to be a
most efficacious medicine for asthmatical patients.

This plain lay between a spur of the Black River range and
the sea, and extended as far as the Bale du Cap, which runs up
a good way into the land. As we neared the bay, we saw the
wreck of a small schooner which had been forced over the reefs
by the breakers. In spite of the violence of the waves where it
lay, men were busy at work, stripping it of its gear and all
available booty. The bay forming an impassable barrier to our
carrioles, we got a pirogue to take them round the Cape to the
other side of the mountain, which forms the last spur of the
range, and stands close to the coast. The craft was, however, too
small, and we were obliged to send our men round the bay
and over the mountain to procure us a ship's yawl, v^hich they
told us was kept there. This held us all, and the carrioles too.

Ch. XXI L] python creeper. 309

.Rounding the Cape the wind blew very strong, and the current
swept us back with such velocity that we came very near a
capsize amongst the sharks and breakers, which made the
bravest of us a little nervous. We were obliged to put back ;
and, crossing a sand-bar, ran right up to the liead of the bay,
and landed close to Mr. Strobe's house.

This is a lonely quiet spot, and the dwelling is in the midst
of a well-cultivated garden, with abundance of fruit-trees. We
went up to see the giant creeper, which grows on his place, and
of which I had heard so much as one of the curiosities of the
Island. Mr. Strobe not only gave us a guide to it, but allowed
us to take as much fruit as we wanted from his garden. We
crossed the river over a little temporary bridge, though, for all
the water in it then, we could have jumped over it. The banks,
liowever, were thickly covered with luxuriant vegetation, and
some distance up are several pretty little cascades tumbling-
over the rocks into a small basin. Very near them at the foot
of a hill is the gigantic Liane ; the only one now here, though
formerly there was one at the Savane, but it is long since dead.
It was imported from the Moluccas many years ago. This
python of a creeper is about two feet in diameter at the coUum,
and some of the roots extend for 100 feet round. It runs up
the steep side of the hill, and covers over an acre of ground. Its
trunks and stems are fasciated and whorled. It bears a cluster
of white pea-like flowers, and produces a seed pod, about two
feet in length and over two inches broad, containing a large
brown bean. It flowers in April and May, and its botanic name
is the Entada Pursoetha. It certainly is very curious, and it
seems a wonder no one has thought of cultivating it elsewhere.

After leaving Mr. Strobe's we went up the river, and pro-
curing a guide, pushed on for the Chamarel Falls, which are at
no great distance. They are situated on the boundary of Black
River and Savane, and are amongst the mountains of a branch
line of the Savane chain. This cascade is formed by the
Riviere du Cap rushing over a rocky ledge, sheer down a
descent of three hundred and twenty feet. During heavy
rains, when the river is swollen, the torrent, unbroken in its
fall, thunders into the chasm below, and presents a scene that
baffles description. In the dry season the foaming cataract
gi ves place to a silvery stream ; and, as the eye follows it, one

3IO THE FALLS. [Ch. XXII.

has a more appreciative idea of the terrific depth of the abyss
tha n when enveloped in clouds of spray.

It mounts in spray to the skies, and thence again
Returns in an unceasing shower, which round
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain
Is an eternal April to the ground,
Making it all one emerald. How profound
The gulf, and how the giant element
From rock to rock leaps, with delirious bound,
Crushing the cliffs !

We returned slowly from the Falls, feasting our eyes on the
surrounding scenery. It is beautiful now, but how much more
so it must have been when the river flowed through a large
grove of clove trees that once flourished there and perfumed
the air with their fragrance !

The whole country around was interesting also in a geologi-
cal point of view. We constantly came upon Madrepores and
other marine productions, some quite perfect, but varying
greatly from those now found in the neighbouring seas, and
proving the submergence of the whole tract. In many places
we found the beds containing these deposits with a superposed
stratum of lava on them ; thus showing their upheaval, and the
subsequent overflow of the volcanoes then formed. These
masses of coral extend from the base of the Tamarind Moun-
tain in three distinct beds over three feet high. The lowest
is divested of all traces of organisation, and so indm'ated that
on being struck it gives out a metallic sound.

The others still retain their organic structure, with blocks
of basalt imbedded in their substance. From the Isthmu«
that connects the Morne with the main-land the ledge of
coral is continued to the Baie du Cap, and is termed Point de
Corail.

The path back to the bay lay through the forest, a straggling,
difficult road. Our men had gone round the mountain with
the baggage, so we took a pirogue and pulled gently along the
shore, to get a good view of the fine basaltic rock that juts
out into the inner bay. It is of columnar basalt, and the
long prisms are constantly becoming detached from the main
body of the rock and falling into the waters below. We crossed
the sand-bar which separates the inner from the outer bay, and
sailed directly for a small opening at the side of the mountain.

'u/' //^O/^^y^/^'V'M ■■■■■ I

Ch. XXIL] SUGAR-MAKING. 311

The waters of the Bale du Cap are so clear that we could dis-
tinguish the Madrepores at the bottom, different species of
Algae, many of them growing on the corals, and the many-hued
fish disporting amongst them. Through this opening at the
foot of the mountain, which extends into the sea forming the
Cape, lay our road to reach our quarters for the night. It is
an awkward place to mount and descend to the other side. In
one part there is a narrow ledge giving barely a foothold, and
a false step would send you sheer down the precipice till you
struck the water 100 feet below — the pure atmosphere, the
magical lines of colour in the spray tossed from the reefs as
they combed along to the shore, forming a series of glittering-
arches, from which the ' Culprit Fay ' might have filled his
crimson cup with the falling drops, though I fear me the Ouphe
would have had worse dangers than even ' quarl and scallop ' to
contend with on the reefs of the Bale du Cap.

The sun sank below the horizon as we approached the spot
where our tent was pitched, near a group of cocoa-nut trees,
on the soft sward peculiar to this part of the Island. I found
a number of Algae, particularly two very curious species of
Caulerpa. The trunks of the cocoa-nut trees were covered with
■ Cyclostomas, and many of them were riddled from their attacks,
as they work their way to the very heart. The main road
skirts the sea here, and we kept along it till we came to the
' Bel Ombre ' estate. We crossed the Citronnier Eiver over a
neat little bridge, and came out on the plains of the ' Bel
Ombre,' bordered on one side by rows of Filaos. The sugar-
house and dwellings lay directly in our course, so we had a
good opportunity of witnessing the process of sugar-making,
which had then just begun, A crowd of women and children,
all as merry as crickets, were engaged in spreading out the
bagasse to dry on the grass. They saluted us as we passed, and
looked astonished at seeing us walking there ; but not half so
much as we did, to see so many boys and girls in a perfectly
nude state, and the mammas in scarcely a better condition,
having on only the barest apology for a covering. It was so
disgusting a sight that we hurried away from them. This
estate occupies nearly 5,000 acres, and has had endless expense
laid out on it to render it one of the finest in the Island. We
returned to the beach road, which is delightful, the soft sward

312 BIRDS. [Ch. XXII.

and shade of the Filaos being very pleasant after the rough roads
we had traversed so long.

We came to the fine estate of Beauchamp, and it struck me
as one of the most desirable residences in Mauritius. On a
charming spot on the SW. bank, being the extreme point sea-
ward of Jacotet Bay, we determined to fix our home for some
days. The bay possesses historic interest, from its having been
the scene of one of the most daring exploits of the war in 1810,
when Captain Wilioughby, E.N., with his boat's crew, effected
the first landing of the English in the Island, took possession of
a French fort there, and captured the officer in charge of it ;
then crossing the Eiviere des Gralets, he took the battery on the
Souillac side, carried off its guns, towed out a schooner lying
there, and got back to his frigate with the loss of only one man.
On the bluff is the house belonging to the estate, overlooking the
bay, and commanding a fine prospect inland. It was here that
some of the former governors of the Island used to pass the
summer months ; and I am not at all astonished at it, for it is
one of the loveliest spots in Mauritius. It was near this place
that a planter was carried off prisoner by the boats of the
' Nereid.' He was afterwards exchanged for twelve or fifteen
seamen. Another story runs that he was ransomed for his weight.
in vegetables ! Being a very stout man, it may be fancied the
amount of cabbages and onions the boats carried oft" !

The bay is circular, with an irregular-shaped islet in its
centre. Numerous streams abounding with fish pour into it.
The hills rise in the background one over the other, most of
them well wooded ; and in the middle distance clumps of palms
and cocoa-nut trees varied the landscape, their long leaves
swaying to every passing breeze. There is an abundance of
trees round the bay ; and the wild canaries, the only native
songsters^ in the Filaos made the air resound with their pretty
warblings, as they feasted on the little cones they are so fond
of. Some of their nests were shown to us.

Thousands of Myna birds roused us the first thing in the
morning with their noisy households ; and we had glimpses of
the Cardinals, though the male had not as yet put on his bright
scarlet mantle, which he changes for a sombre brown one as
SI immer dies away.

The pretty little Pingoes, or Nutmeg Birds (so called from

Ch. XXII.] ACTINIAS. 313

the breast being of the peculiar shade of a fresh nutmeg when
cut in two), were twittering on every bush.

From the configuration of the Black Eiver Mountains the
neighbourhood of the Bale du Cap suffers severely in hurricane
weather. The mountains of Laporte, Le Fouge, and Canot,
which extend along the bay and river, are of great height, in a
direction nearly NE. and SW., and increase the violence of the
winds which blow SE. and SW., presenting an obstacle to their
passage, which causes whirlwinds that spread devastation
around. When the winds take their ordinary hurricane circle,
often from the north, these hills arrest the squalls momentarily,
to precipitate them with greater force on the neighbouring-
plantations to the south.

In this district, which was formerly successfully cultivated,
canes and cotton also thrive ; but from the tenacious character
of the soil it requires a large amount of labour to work it well.
P'rom the Black Eiver to the Cape the earth is blackish ; but in
the gorges near the bay the change of soil and temperature is as
great as if in different latitudes. In the latter is found only a
light reddish- yellow earth, free from stones, and the frequent
and abundant rains render it extremely fertile.

On the evening of our arrival we heard a great shouting of
men and women's voices, and our attention was called to a party
of Creoles in pirogues, in the small inner bay, near the bridge
which spans the Riviere des Gralets.

Torches were burning in the bows of the pirogues, and the
men were beating the sides with sticks and shouting with all
their might. The mullets and other fish, attracted by the
lights and frightened at the noise, leapt from the water into the
boats. We were greatly amused at this novel mode of fishing,
and we remained watching till a large quantity of fish was taken.

The island in this bay is of curious formation, similar to that
of the Isle des Aigrettes, a composite of coral debins and shells
overlying beds of lava. It can be reached at low water on foot
by approaching it from the east. It is covered with bushes,
and on the outer side is bounded by very deep water. The rocks
are covered with the Geramium rubruTn, and a curious Echinus.

The lovely Actinias are in all their glory. They well deserve
the name of ' Sea Anemones ' ; especially a very common one on
this coast, with tentacles of the richest imperial blue and the

314 A SEA GARDEN. [Ch. XXII.

heart yellowish. The lines to the Blue Anemone would suit
equally these beautiful sea-flowers : —

Flowers of starry clearness bright,
Quivering urns of coloured light,
Have ye caught your cup's rich dye
From the intenseness of the sky,

From a long, long fervent gaze
Up that blue and silent deep,
Where like things of sculptured sleep
Alabaster clouds repose
With the sunshine on their snows ?

Masses of Astrseas and Meandrinas form a contrast to the
branching Madrepores and the trellised fan-shaped Grorgonas.
All glow with lustrous tints, with softened shades, a painter
must despair of imitating. All are blended and harmonised by
the medium of the bright transparent waters of the ocean ; but
bring them into our atmosphere, and even as we clutch them
they lose their beauty, withered by the gross touch of the
human hand. How like yet how unlike a terrestrial garden !
This is composed of luxuriant vegetation — trees, shrubs, flowers,
all the wealth of vegetable life ; in that nearly the whole
landscape (if I may be allowed the word in such anomalous case)
is composed of animal life, not flowers teeming with it outwardly
as on earth, but the very flowers themselves existent, sentient
beings. To carry on the simile. Parasites are not wanting.
Flustras and Escharas cling everywhere to the coral branches,
answering to the Orchideae of the forest, and the Serpulse mine
along the securest dwellings of the Mollusca, even as the Carias
do the noblest trees. Eels swim in and out of the green
Ulvas, in their sinuous paths resembling glittering snakes.
Damberries, with blood-stained fins and golden-scaled armour,
float gracefully about, and ever and anon the Quarl, that fearful
monster the 'Pieuvre' immortalised by Victor Hugo for all
time, warily sends forth its long feeders from out some hidden,
time-worn cave. Woe betide the incautious fish that plays
within the sweep of its terrible arms — one touch from those
dread suckers, and further struggle is in vain !

Crabs swarm everywhere, of many varieties, some quite new
to me. One in particular, which we named the Jumping Crab,
from its leaping two or three feet from rock to rock when

Ch. XXII.] A NIGHTS FISHING. 31$

pursued. It would take a baited hook readily, so that we
easily caught some. As we sat fishing on the bluff, a good-
sized Tazarre waited on us, remaining perfectly motionless
within a few feet of the surface ; and no sooner did we draw a
fine fish from the deep water, than he would instantly snatch
at it. We baited a large hook with a live fish, and threw it to
liim, but he was not to be done so easily, and refused it. I
then watched my opportunity, and just as he was darting at a
fine Damberry, I sent him a leaden pill from my revolver, and
he soon disappeared, leaving us to fish in peace.

Some Creole fishermen offered to provide us rare sport from
a fishing excursion to the reefs, if we would stand the expenses,
which were only a few dollars, and to which we gladly assented :
and active preparations in torches, &c. went on for the evening's
diversion. Two good-sized pirogues were manned by four stout
negro Creoles ; and jolly fellows they were, regular sea dogs I
A box of provisions, our pipes and tobacco, some good old rum,
and Hennessy's best, with extra clay pipes for our men, completed
our outfit. Spirits were an absolute necessity, as we expected
to be wet through for hours. We pulled our pirogues about a
mile out from the shore, to the outer reef, and anchored them,
leaving one man as a guard. We all then jumped into the
water, which was nearly up to our waists, armed with long spears,
and we followed our guides cautiously, just keeping clear of
the breakers. Suddenly there was a halt, and silence was en-
joined. Our torches were lit, and in a hole close to us we ob-
served numbers of fish that soon approached the light. ' Now
is your time ! — throw in your lances ! ' said our sable friends ;
and away they went like lightning, cleaving the water, scat-
tering the Medusae and jelly fish in all directions, that left behind
a train of phosphoric light as they darted through the waves.
A cord was attached to the lances ; and as I drew mine in, I
found I had speared a large fish of the genus Pseudoscarus,
called here a Cateau, very handsome, but not very choice eating.
We bagged several fine fish, none weighing less than from two to
two and a half pounds. On we went, the Creoles evidently
knowing every hole and break in the reefs. We disturbed
myriads of little animals which appeared to have taken up their
abode in the empty cells in the great coral beds. This sea
garden was lighted up with millions of tiny sparks — the glow-

3i6 AN OCTOPUS. [Ch. XXII.

worms of the deep, lighting the finny tribes of nocturnes to
their pre}, and presenting a pyrotechnic display on a small
scale to us, but to them possibly equal to our brightest calcium
light.

We were glad to hear that our old enemy the Tazarre never
attacks at night. One of the Creoles hooked a large Ourite, or
catfish (their Creole name), Octopus vulgaris. No sooner was
it on the hook, than it darted its long tentacles up the pole,
and wound one of its slimy feelers, with its double row of cup-
like suckers, round his arm. The knife was instantly applied,
and the limb severed from the body of the fish ; but even then it
was with difficulty that it could be detached, the suckers possess
such remarkable tenacity. After removal, a sense of numbness
remained for a good while in the arm. The brute was, however,
dislodged from his hole, and proved to be a large one, measuring
ten feet from tip to tip of the tentacles. I had often seen this
animal on the reefs, but had always given it a wide berth,
knowing it to be dangerous ; and coming to close quarters with
the disgusting-looking animal did not at all make me anxious
for its proximity. A number of smaller ones were caught, and
the fishermen despatched them by tm*ning their bodies inside
out, thus leaving an empty sack.

We fished until half-past two in the morning, having been
between four and five hours in the water. We returned safely
to our pirogues, which were laden with our night's spoils ; but on
the way to them I fell into a deep hole, and thus took an in-
voluntary early morning bath, which did not, however, make
me much wetter than I had previously been. A good draught
of Hennessy, as we got into the boat, put us all to rights ; and we
got home well pleased with our excursion, but fully determined
our next should be on a moonlight night. W^e fished up some
large yellow cones on the reefs, the C. betulinus ; and, amongst
the sea-weeds I brought away, I found a curious specimen of
Grigartina, some fine pieces of Codium to'tnentosum, and a rare
one of Delesseria. The latter genus, though common in most
parts of the world, had hitherto escaped my search, so I was
greatly pleased to find a specimen at last.

A fine cool morning invigorated us, so that, in spite of our
night's outing, we resolved to make the most of our time ; and,
after a hasty breakfast, we set off with a guide to visit the Falls

Ch. XXIL] JACOTET BAY. 317

of the Kiviere des Gralets, which has its outlet uear Jacotet
Bay.

Our path was anything but a pleasant one, alternately forcing-
cur way througli liane-twined trees that impeded our progress
every five yards, or out in the open through high grass, bearing
a barbed seed {Anthistiria harbata\ which worked its way into
our flesh, and which we could not detach from our clothes
without much trouble — a far worse species than that on the
plains of St. Pierre. Much of the ground was also encum-
bered with large boulders ; and wath all these impediments,
we found we had a guide who knew no more of the road than
we did, so it may be supposed we did not make much headway.

Before reaching the Falls, our way lay along the side of a
hill on which a path had been made. To make this road great
masses of calcareous rock have been cut through, showing the
successive layers, which vary greatly in thickness, but each one
distinctly marked by lines of ferruginous earth. The river
forms a very beautiful cascade, not like that of Chamarel, in
one continuous sheet of water down into the depths below, but
it is broken by huge craggy rocks covered with ferns and mosses,,
thus giving a more varied aspect to the scene. The height of
the whole is little less than three hundred feet. Instead of
the rude passage formed by a fallen trunk of a tree (as described
by one traveller), a good pile bridge now spans the Riviere des
G a lets.

We left Jacotet Bay with regret, and pushed on to the Port
of Souillac. Our road still lay along the shore, and we had a
continuation of the turfy land, very pleasant walking. The
Riviere de la Savane flows into the Bay of Souillac, and has a
good bridge over it ; the left bank is precipitous, and in the
rainy season it must bring down a great volume of water to the
sea. The village is picturesquely situated ; it has a fine Roman
Catholic church, of Grothic architecture, some good buildings,
most of them with gardens attached ; and here the District Courts
are held. A good deal of business is done in this little place.
It is the most southerly point of the island, and lies in one of
the very finest cane districts. A number of coasters were lying
there, waiting for freights, having discharged their cargoes at
the quays constructed for that purpose. It was formerly the
most convenient port for the planters to ship their sugar for

Z

3i8 GRAND BASSIN. [Ch. XXII.

the Port Louis market, before railroads were an established
fact, and will continue so to this district till a branch line is
made to the Savane. This port, which formerly could receive
boats drawing eight feet of water even at low tide, is gradually
closing so that craft only drawing five feet can now enter. The
barrier is formed by large rocks and trees which are carried down
the slopes by the descent of mountain torrents during the rainy
season, and the daily degradation of the cliffs near the jetty
and quays. The temperature of the Savane near the sea is
generally warmer than in the upper parts. The south winds
singularly affect both men and plants in this quarter. They
are insupportable to people of asthmatic or consumptive ten-
dency, and when they blow with violence for several days, trees
and plants suffer severely from their withering influence.

About fifteen miles from Souillac is the famous Grand
Bassin ; and as we had none of us seen it, we set off to it, having
previously got permission to use a large hangar in its vicinity.
Part of our way lay through cane fields, and part through the
woods. The Bois Sec, as this part of the country is called,
answers very completely to its name. It is dreary in the ex-
treme. Thousands of dried-up skeletons of trees blanched to a
ghastly whiteness meet the eye on every side ; and but for the
tangle of lianes and plants at their feet showing life, it might
be a forest of primaeval days over which some blighting plague
had passed.

As falls the plague on man —

and left it as a memento to future ages of the dire rum. The
lianes Pi'emTia scandens and Seeaarhorea twine round the rugged
stems and hide their barrenness. Formerly here grew the Syzy-
gium glomeratuTn, spreading its lordly branches far and wide ;
but now it is rarely seen, being replaced by the Syzygium scan-
dens, which is a mere climbing shrub. Two species of Lycopo-
dium grow here. Acrostichese, Adiantums and Aspleniums
are plentiful, and the elegant Cyathea excelsa. The trunks of
the latter are covered with concave plates, whose sections are in
waves, closely arranged in a circle next the bark. The stems
are marked with long scars, broken into ragged projections,
^^howing where the leaf has fallen, and thus produced these scars.
It is not uncommon to see various Polypodia, Vittarias, and

Ch. XXII.] SAVANE. 319

other ferns growing out of the scars, giving the tall bare trunks
a singular appearance ; or a delicate jasmine or other creeper
will twine round the rugged stem, covering it with tender
verdure ; whilst over all spreads the exquisite crown of fronds,
that makes it the King of Ferns in Mauritius.

Where we traversed the woods it was a most tedious kind of
scrambling over fallen trunks and giant coils of roots, througli
thickets of climbers, and not unfrequently into deep holes. We
passed the night at the hangar, and found the temperature so
much lower that we felt the change sharply, our coverings being
but scant. We paid our visit to the Grand Bassin early in the
morning, along a private road cut throug'h the bush. A troop
of deer was quietly feeding on the rough grass, but our presence
did not greatly scare it. This interesting lake lies at the height
of 2,250 feet above sea-level, has an area of about 25 acres, and
fills the crater of an extinct volcano. It is nearly surrounded
with dense woods, which cov^erthe slopes of the hills, part of the
Savane chain. This great reservoir receives the waters of many
streams in the rainy season : but the body of water varies little
in depth the whole year, being ft-d from underground springs
that percolate through the porous lava at the foot of the
mountains. The accounts of its great depth are incorrect. I
could not get soundings over sixty feet, though I tried in many
places, as I swam over it, there being no boat there at that
time. The water is delightfully clear and cold, and I think is
the finest in the Island. We were told not to plunge in on
account of the monster eels ; but though we fished for them a
good while, not one put in an appearance. There were plenty of
Dame Ceres, or golden fish, and two fine black swans were sail-
ing majestically about the lake.

Towards the centre of the Grand Bassin is a little island, on
which grow a few Vacoas and shrubs, and the Nymphcea stel-
lata adorns its edges. We turned away considerably dis-
appointed, excepting for its geological interest. I think it has
been greatly overrated. The accompanying view is taken from
the SE. of the lake, taking in the whole Bassin at an angle of
90°, the Pitou Mountain in the distance.

The next day after our return to Souillac, we paid a visit to
the Cascade of Savane in the neighbourhood. A wall of black
basalt interrupts the course of the river of the same name,

320 GROS BOIS, [Ch. XXII.

composed of the most regular geometrical prisms, by the action
of the water separated and broken, and forming a thousand
angular projections.

As the river surmounts the rocky barrier, and breaks into
innumerable streams, flung back from point to point, and send-
ing up showers of spray, sparkling in the sun with rainbow
rays, it equals in beauty any in the Island, and even in the dry
season is most romantic. As it descends into the Bassin below,
the waters meander peacefully along, bordered with the large-
leaved Nymphaeas, and overhung with the elegant wild Bananas,
Eaffias, and Bamboos, and the scene changes to one of the most
perfect repose.

Beneath it sweeps
The current's calmness : oft frum out it leaps
The finny darter, with the glittering scales,
That dwells and revels in thy glassy deeps ^
While chance some water lily sails
Down where the shallower ware still tells its bubbling tales.

After leaving Souillac, our route was still along the coast,
boulders encumbering it as usual. We crossed several incon-
siderable rivers, and halted near the Eiviere du Poste, the
boundary of the districts of Savane and Grrand Port. A rock
causeway traverses this river, which they told us was so dan-
gerous during heavy rains, from the sudden swelling of the
waters, that many lives had been lost there.

The ascent on the Grrand Port side is so rugged and steep that it
is called L'Escalier, and between it and the Eiviere Tabac stands
a fair-sized village. Beyond this lies a tract of country, in
former times a dense forest, containing such fine timber trees
that it obtained the name of Gros Bois. From the destruction of
these trees even so early as the time of occupation by the
Dutch, doubtless many species once abundant are now rare if
not wholly extinct. The reckless way the trees were cut down
by the crews of every vessel that touched here must have made
great changes in the forests. During the present century the
same system (or rather the want of any system) has prevented
the growth to the full size of the best timber. In the Gros
Bois are still fine specimens of the Calophyllum spurium, but
they are rare. The small-leaved Tatamaka, the Eleodendron
^rientale, the Jawhosa venosa, Colophania, and two species

CASCADE OF THE RIVER SAVANE.

Ch. XXII.] THE SOUFFLEUR. 321

of ebony, yet abound, and a host of others which I could only
admire and guess at their names.

We next camped at a pretty spot, shaded with Filaos and
Bamboos, about thirty feet above the level of the sea, and within
a mile of the Souffleur, a natural curiosity. The coast here is a
line of abrupt rocks, rising up from the deep water, and the waves
break against them with a wild and angry roar, as the surf rolls
in unchecked by reefs ; but it proved so soothing and musical
to our ears that we all dropped off to sleep immediately after
dinner, having had a fatiguing walk. In the morning the sea
was still more boisterous, and dashed the spray right over our
tent, so that we were obliged to pitch it higher up. From the
action of the waves numerous caverns and fissures are worn in
these rocks, even the mightiest boulders not being able to
resist their violence, as they work their revenge on them for
the time when, as molten rivers of fire, they broke down the
giant crater wdUs, and forced back the waves of the ocean itself
to a great distance, laying the foundation of the great coral
reefs that are spreading far and wide.

The name Souffleur, or Rock Spout, has been given to an
enormous block of black basalt, connected by a broken ledge
of rocks with the mainland. It rises nearly forty feet above
the sea, exposed to the full force of the waves, and is perforated
to its summit by a cavity that communicates with jbhe ocean.
When there is a heavy swell the waves rush in and fill up the
vacuum with terrific fury. Wave on wave presses on, and there
being no other outlet, the water is forced upwards, and forms a
magnificent ^et d^eau, ascending to a height of fifty or sixty
feet. The noise can be heard for two miles ; and when the
Souffleur growls and roars, it is a sure indication of rough
weather.

The rocks are now greatly undermined, and the Spout is so en-
larged that it is daily losing its former grandeur ; but the day we
saw it, they told us that it was performing its best. The wind
had been blowing strongly from the SE. for several days, and
the sea ran high, so we had a good view of it. When in action
it emits a singular rumbling sound, and the rocks tremble and
vibrate so much that it caused a most unpleasant quivering all
over the body as we watched it from the adjacent rocks. So
great are its powers of suction that a stone placed within ten

322 BLUE BAY. [Ch. XXII.

feet of the adit was quickly drawn in. It is only when in a state
of tranquillity that it can be approached without danger. The
wet rocks are covered with slimy weeds (Cladophora, Valonioides,
and Fuciis 7m7ii77ii^s), which make the foothold very precarious.

At a little distance along the coast is another curious monu-
ment of the work of the ocean, the ' Pont Naturel,' as it is
called. It resembles a real bridge, with a pile and two arches,
through which the sea swirls and rushes with the greatest im-
petuosity. The formidable chasm is daily widening, the foam-
ing billows breaking against the rocks, and the arches are being
gradually undermined, so that some future cyclone will cause
their total disappearance. I found some very fine Chitons on
this bridge {Chiton riiagnificus). The slopes to the sea are
covered with couch grass, the Cynodon tenellus, which appears
to flourish most in the salt atmosphere. Troops of hares crop
this saline herbage with great avidity, so we had no lack of
game.

The whole of this part of the coast is strewn with rocks of
basalt, many of which present the appearance of sudden
refrigeration when in a state of such ebullition as to cause
bubbles large enough to contain several gallons ; and many of
these vesicles may be found cohering, the pcmetes of which
are scarcely thicker than paper, and the whole weighing but a
few pounds.^

Our progress in returning from the Souffleur was very slow, as
our route alternated between a scramble over rocks and a flounder
through mud, much of the land hereabouts being marshy. The
whole shore along this coast is also full of holes, burrowed by a
species of land-crab, called Tourlouroux by the Creoles : they may
be seen scampering in all directions, but always under protest,
to judge from their defiant attitudes.

After the wild sea-landscape we had been so long gratified
with, we came to one of quite 3n opposite character. A narrow
arm of the sea runs up some distance into the land, and is
called the ' Bras de Mer de Chaland.' It is a picture of perfect
repose, its waters so clear that the rocks and fish at a depth of
twenty feet are visible, and from their colour it has obtained
the name of Blue Bay. A charming view is had of this place

' See Bolton's Almanac.

?SSy .1 '^"1 1 iilll'il!:llil|l|l|IW

Ch. XXII.] POINT UESNY. 323

when going to Mahebourg by rail. It is nearly bordered with
tall Filaos, and at a distance it looks like a lovely blue inland
lake shut in by shading trees.

We took a pirogue here, and went off to the Isle des Cocos,
shell-hunting. The whole of the southern coast is rich in
conchological treasures. The finest Harps in the Indian Ocean,
are found in the deep waters round this part of the island. We
had some difficulty in returning, for the tide set dead against
us. After quitting this tranquil spot, we had once more a fine
soft verdure under our feet as far as Point d'Esny, Here we
pitched our tent, a little beyond the Military Camp, whence
we had a capital view of the town of Mahebourg, which lies on
a slope towards the sea. The white tower of the Catholic
church shone out conspicuously against the dark foliage of the
embowering trees, and the Creole Mountains made a fine back-
ground to the landscape. Before us, seaward, lay the sweep of
Grrand Port Bay ; the intricate lines of reefs well marked by
wreaths of foam, and the channels equally distinct by the still
bright water. Point d'Esny is formed by a small bay making
in from the larger one of Grand Port. From our quarters a
causeway has been built that isolates this inlet, and converts it
into a fish-pond. The soldiers of Her Majesty's 32nd and 86th
Regiments were exercising on this fine plain, and practising
with the Schneider rifles which they had lately received. Their
range was about 800 yards, and many of them made capital
shots. Grrand Port is the largest harbour on the coast ; but
owing to its sand-bar and the difficult navigation between the
reefs, which are spreading in all directions, it can never be of
any importance for vessels larger than the coasting chasse-
marees, though it was chosen by the Dutch and afterwards by
the French as the principal port.

The Isle de Passe lies at the entrance of the harbour, and
will be for ever famous in the naval annals of both England
and France. On it there stood a circular fort and a barracks
as a defence ; but in 1810 it was stormed by Captain Pym, of
the ' Sirius ' frigate, and taken. It was kept by the British
through all the thrilling events which occurred in the deadly
conflict which took place in Grand Port Bay on the 2oth and
26th August, in the same year, when the French gained their
bloodiest but last naval victory over the English in the Indian

324 ISLE OF FOUQUETS. [Ch. XXII.

seas. After the capitulation of the Isle de France, the barracks
were occupied for some years by a garrison, but they have long-
been abandoned.

The adjacent island of P'ouquets, wliich is about three miles
from the nearest point of the mainland, has a lighthouse. The
foundation line is thirty feet above the sea, and the light is at
a height of 108 feet. There is a white dioptric light of the
first order, facing seaward, and which can be seen sixteen miles
off. This island is hollowed out by the waves in many places,
forming caverns that undermine it for a good distance. I think
the foundations of the lighthouse are unsound, for the walls are
much cracked, and the whole building is off the perpendicular,
so that I should not be surprised to hear that it had caved in
during some gale. There is a large tank, which is capable of con-
taining a supply of fresh water for the use of the keeper and his
family, brought over in larrels from the mainland every day,
when the boats take provisions, oil, &c.. and stored there, as the
place is often inaccessible for days together at high tides, and in
stormy weather. A most extensive view is obtained from the
top of the lighthouse. The whole sweep of the Bay, with its
curiously outlined islands, Dcs Aigrettes, Vacoa, Marianne, De
la Passe, Aux Cerfs, &c., and a long line of coast both to the
north and south, are visible. The fine ranges of the Creoles,
Camisard, and Terra Rouge Mountains are partially seen inland
far behind the town.

The ruins of tlie Old Grrand Port, dating from the time of tlie
Dutch governors, were still standing in 1753, when they were
entirely demolished, and their materials served to construct new
quarters for the French Commandant and garrison. A new
town was built in 1805, by General De Caen, who named it
Mahebourg after Mahe de Labourdonnais.

The remains are still shown at Point de la Colonic ; but to
ray eye the existing town is, or will soon be in many parts,
almost as ruinous. In three-fourths of the place the streets are
overgrown with grass, and the houses are in the most dilapi-
dated condition, in fact so much so it is only a wonder how
people can be got to inhabit them. What were once evidently
well-cultivated gardens are now neglected, overgrown with
weeds, and trodden down. Damp and decay have set a stamp
on nearly the whole place. There are one or two pretty good

Ch. XXII.] MAH^BOURG. 325

streets, where the few shops are ; and there is a small covered
shed for a market-place, which seems well supplied with vege-
tables, poultry, &c. Since the opening of the railway a few
new buildings have been run up, and it has a little improved \
but even being the terminus of the Midland line has failed to
give much impetus to the progress of the place. Socially
speaking, Mahebourg is even more dead-alive than Port Louis
itself. The station is, I believe, built on land reclaimed from
the sea, which was previously a saline marsh, and the trains pass
over a raised causeway of stone.

The place is considered generally very healthy, the death-
rate even during cholera and the late epidemic being far less
than in many other places. Mahebourg resembles most parts
of this colony, very pretty in the distance, but, like Port Louis
especially,

'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view.

The many umbrageous trees, especially the Badanier, the
Nowruk, Sang Dragon, Samalonga, Flamboyant, and others,
give it a most picturesque aspect ; but enter it, and squalor
and filth abound. It possesses a pretty little Episcopal church,
the Catholic one before mentioned, and a neat little convent ;
but very little can be said as to the beauty of the private
houses that are not dilapidated. Near the sea stand the bar-
racks, good substantial buildings, in a fine square.

On a hill overlooking the town are the cemeteries. To arrive
at them you have to mount a steep hill of red clayey soil, that
must be terribly heavy for funerals to pass over in wet weather.
The Protestant and Catholic grounds are all in one enclosure ;
the latter lie just at the entrance, and are nicely kept. Pretty
shrubs and trees are planted about the tombs ; and from this
place you get a lovely view seaward, and you can mark the
course of the Eivers Creoles and La Chaux, which intersect the
town, by the steep banks of verdure to the water's edge, and the
lines of waving bamboos.

Advance a little farther, and what a change meets the eye as
you find yourself in the English Protestant burying-ground !
Neither shrub nor tree shades the neglected graves, many of
which are merely ill-made mounds of sandy earth. All looks

desert — nothing to relieve the fierce glare of the sun ; even the

Aa

326

THE CEMETERY,

[Ch. XXII.

ground is in uneven hillocks, no order, as if every grave was
dug at random ; and you go stumbling over ruined vaults and
old stumps, which show there were once> fine old trees, why cut
down no one could guess, and you turn back, disgusted, to the
fresh greenery of the Catholic side.

We did not visit the Isle de Passe at this time, but on a sub-
sequent trip I had an opportunity of so doing. How it occurred,
and what I saw, as well as the continuation of our tour, I
reserve for another chapter.

POLN'T AU DIABLE.

CHAPTEE XXIII.

VISIT TO THE ISLE BE PASSE, AND CONTINUATION OF TOUR.

Preparation for Visit — Eiver Creoles — Crater in Mahebourg Bay — Isle de Passe —
The Eeturn — Aground — En route again — Point au Diable — Mountain Ranges —
Camisard — Its Geology — Ferns — Grand River SE. —The Falls — The Beau-
champ Estate — Statue to the Virgin — Trou d'Eau douce — Point Hollandais —
Annelides — Holothurise, &c.— Flacq — General Description — St. Antoine — Amber
Island — Caverns — Islets in Mapou Bay — Polyp — Sunset — Arrival of English Fleet
in Mapou Bay — Holicanthus semicirculatus — Battle with a Cave Eel — Situation
of Pamplemousses — The Gardens and Churches — On the road to Port Louis —
Cemetery of Bois Marchand — Peter Both — St. Croix — Olden Boundaries of Port
Louis and Defences — The City and its Cries.

I HAD been spending a few days in Mahebourg, where I was
most hospitably entertained by the officers of the 86th Eegi-
ment, when a pic-nic was proposed to the Isle de Passe. Most of
them kept boats, and all were soon put in readiness for our excur-
sion. Long before dawn on the day fixed, the Creole servants
were conveying mysterious-looking boxes and hampers, to be
stowed away in the boats, filled with everything requisite for a
good time. At sunrise the officers made their appearance in
the mess-room, dressed in suitable boating costume, but with
more regard to ease than elegance. After snatching a hasty
meal, we embarked on the Eiver Creoles, in four pretty sloop-
rigged boats. This river abounds with choice fish, gourami,
carp, eels, mullets, and fine camerons. A light breeze carried
us down the river, and across the sand-bar at its mouth out
into the Bay ; but we were obliged to stand off towards the
Lion Mountain, and soon the wind hauled, and we had to take
to our oars. I was not sorry for this, as we had a cool overcast
morning, our company was all that could be wished, and we glided
quietly along. As we rowed slowly over the coral beds, on which
we could see most distinctly the many-hued molluscs and fish
disporting themselves, I was able to hook up many interesting
specimens of Algae.

328 TURTLES, [Ch. XXIII.

The curious Holothurise abound in these waters ; but while I
was watching them, the submarine scene suddenly changed to
the blackness of darkness. Instead of the bright sparkling
waters was a blackish-blue fluid showing deep water. We were,
in fact, just over the often-described crater ; but this being my
first visit to it, I felt a curious sensation on coming to this
deep hole, not unlike what one feels on inadvertently finding
oneself at the edge of a deserted, uncovered mine. It is nearly
circular, from three to four hundred yards in diameter, and
said to be fathomless. The water at the sides, which are the
walls of a submerged mountain, is a lighter colour, and we could
see down for a few feet ; the tops must be barely covered at low
tides. We felt relieved as we could see again the bottom
through the clear waves. This cavity is infested with monster
sharks, that always make me shudder when in their vicinity.

We saw a very fine turtle (Testudo imhricata\ and could
easily have captured it. They formerly abounded on this coast,
but are now rarely seen. After three hours' rowing we came to
the Isle de Passe; the others not arriving so soon, as they had gone
round by the Isle des Aigrettes. The place we landed at is
rocky, and has been washed away by the sea to such an extent that
there was danger of the boats being stove in, if the sea proved
rough, by getting sucked in under the projecting rocks. We
all proceeded to a small house that I took to have been the Com-
mandant and soldiers' quarters. Two very large iron mortars, a
broken gun-carriage, and an iron sixty-eight pounder, to which
we made our boat fast, were all the warlike implements we
saw on the island. In close proximity to this house was the
magazine, with a strong liigh wall built around it. The ar-
rangement for heating shot was very curious, and the whole
work spoke of ancient times. Eoom was made seaward in the rock
for guns en barbette^ but I am of opinion that as a fort of defence
it would be worth nothing now-a-days. Truly, it commanded the
Pass, but a shell dropped in among the garrison would not only
destroy the buildings, dismount the guns, but kill every soul on
the island, as there was not the slightest chance of escape.
Casemates could have been built, but in a military point of
view it is not worth defending.

The soldiers who were quartered there had amused them-
selves by cutting their names, and the number of the regiment

Ch. XXI I L]

SOLDIERS' GRAVES,

329

they were attached to, on the walls. There was scarcely a stone
inside or out of the magazine but had one or more names on it.
In the middle of the island were many graves ; and I noticed the
names of some of the brave 86th, who fought in the desperate
engagements previously mentioned. There lay the remains of
the poor fellows taking their final earthly rest in the desolate
island, never more to start at the sound of the reveille, or the
thundering din of battle :

And though no stone may tell

Their name, their rank, their glory,
They rest in hearts that loved them well,

And they grace Britannia's story.

Some kind-hearted fellow of the present regiment had placed
a new head and foot-stone at one of the graves, and rudely carved
on it : ' The 86th Regiment.'

'^%?!(5JS8ikr

1LA.HEB0UKG BARRACKS.

This island is also of upheaval, and of far more recent for-
mation than Mauritius. It is composed of a friable greyish
sandstone in easily traced strata, that appear to have been
thrown over by a sudden convulsion. The dip of the strata is
at an angle of thirty degrees, and inclined east and west. This
and others of the group were most likely upheaved by the once
very active volcano in Grand Port Bay. At one period they
were much more elevated than at present, and covered with
palms and cocoa-nuts. At the Isle de Fouquet are still found

330 SHELL-HUNTING. [Ch. XXIII.

casts of them, the same as I stated to be found at the Isle des
Aigrettes. They must all have been submerged and undergone
a second upheaval, and lie about five miles from Mahebourg. It
is not improbable that some centuries hence they may be joined
to the mainland, as in many places the water is so shallow that
even the light pirogues ground on the reefs.

After having examined everything worth seeing on the island,
we returned to the house, where a bountiful repast was spread,
and the popping of corks and rattling of dishes gave proof
that the advanced guard had opened action, and in a few mi-
nutes the whole column was actively engaged doing its duty, as
English and Yankees well know how. All were in the best of
spirits, and it would be hard to find a jollier lot of fellows than
the officers of the 86th. After thoroughly discussing all the good
things under which our temporary table groaned, we found a
goblet of iced champagne most welcome, as the thermometer had
risen ten degrees since morning.

Some of us then set off shell-hunting, as all the islands of
this bay are famous for curious specimens. Amongst others I
found some of the largest Chiton shells I had ever seen, of the
same species as those at the Souffleur. Our bright sky was
however fast becoming obscured, and the wind rising ; such
warnings were not to be neglected, so we soon had all ready,
and our boats set off together. The one I was in with the
Major was a slow sailer, and in consequence the others soon
shot ahead of us, and we found no efforts would keep us up.
Of course we had to stand a good deal of chaff — asking ' If we
wanted towing,' or ' If they should take messages ashore,' &c.
&c. But if our course was tortoise-like, it was for the time
sure. The wind freshened, and a steady rain set in, and very
soon our boasting comrades, the hares, were hard and fast on
the reefs, and all of them out in the water up to their waists,
getting their boats off. We sailed merrily past them, and
flung them some wine as a farewell gift, and got nearly to
Creole River, when our short-lived triumph was over, and we
were aground too. It was getting quite dark, but there was
no help for it. The Major and I had to turn out into the sea
with the men to push off our boat, the rain by this time pouring
in torrents. However, we got in all safely after hard pulling,
glad to find supper ready at the barracks.

Ch. XXIIL] the return. 331

And now to return to our trip after this long digression.

From Mahebourg we sent our carrioles round to Point au
Diable, but we preferred sailing, although there was considerable
sea on. The distance was about nine miles. This is a spur of
the Bamboo Mountains, and received its name from early na-
vigators, as it was said the compass here varied so much without
apparent cause, which was probably owing to the large quan-
tity of iron ore that the whole range contains. There is an
old French fortification of stone, still in fair preservation.

We pitched our tents near this Point, in order to examine
the coral reefs. We found large quantities of Sargassum, Cys-
tophyllum, and for the first time Turbinaria ornata : there is
but little variety of Algae all round the coast, though Zoophytes
are pretty numerous. The Sargassum is fine here, with its beau-
tiful waving branches, covered with the nodes of air vessels resem-
bling bunches of small yellow fruit ; and amongst it I observed
shoals of fish about an inch long, of a bright blue, which I took to
be young Urasse, which swarm round the whole of Mauritius, and
amongst them are the most brilliant-coloured of tropical fish.
They come into shoal water at certain seasons, in order that the
young may not be devoured by the large fish in deep water.
I tried hard to catch some of these small fry ; but as soon as I
threw my net they would disappear amongst the weeds, as by
magic, then when all was quiet they would recommence their
gambols as actively as before.

I saw many Anguilles Moreles, but I took good care not to
disturb them, so they let me alone. How the fishermen
escape these eels I know not, probably from understanding their
habits they avoid them. The reef at this part extends out
some distance, with shallow water between it and the shore ;
but off the Point, near the fort, it is very deep.

To the north of Mahebourg is a magnificent range of moun-
tains, extending from the centre of the island, where they have
the name of Terre Eouge, to Grand River SE., changing their
nomenclature to Creoles, Camisard, Bamboo, and Grrand Port
respectively. The Creole Mountains form a long spur off the
main range, and make the background of Mahebourg itself. Nu-
merous branches diverge to the sea ; and amongst those of Grand
Port rises the Camisard, supposed to have received its name
from the Camisa, or shroud of clouds which it often wears ; or,

.^3'2 CURIOUS MOUNTAIN. " [Ch. XXIII.

probably, from its having been the refuge of bands of Maroons,
who there defied capture, as the Camisards of old who fled tc
the Cevennes. The latter flying for liberty of conscience,
and the former for personal liberty, not improbably gave the
consequent idea of calling it the Camisard Mountain.

This singular mountain is double-headed, and is a curious
feature in this range, standing out distinctly from the rest. I had
been twice on the south side, but had never had the opportunity
to explore its ravines. I now determined to visit it again, to ex-
amine the curious formation of the north side. To do this we were
obliged to make a detour round the base, crossing the western
spur, and then force our way up the jungle to the highest points,
which are quite bare. We planted the Stripes and Stars on one
head and the Cross of St. Greorge on the other. A regular
road runs over the mountain, and through the gorge passable
for man and horse ; but we preferred to make a path for our-
selves. When we had attained the summit, we were compelled
to stand and admire the glorious prospect. Waving canes were
planted nearly to the summit of some of the neighbouring hills.
The mountain ranges to the north showed their varied peaks
brilliantly illuminated by the same flood of sunshine that
glinted the canvas tents of the soldiers at Point d'Esny, and
fringed with gold the white-robed breakers, tossing madly over
the dangerous reef barrier. The pretty little islands in Grrand
Port Bay sleeping calmly in the glare, and the chasse-marees,
reduced by distance to tiny specks, dotted the ocean far beyond
the reach of the surf.

The solid frame of earth
And ocean's liquid mass in gladness lay
Beneath him, far and wide the clouds were touched,
And in their silent faces could be read
Unutterable love. Sound needed none,
Nor any sense of joy.

Vegetation is luxuriant on this mountain ; but my expecta-
tions had been so raised from the accounts I had heard of it, that
I was somewhat disappointed. I had already climbed so many of
the Mauritius mountains and seen so much of its Flora, that
I saw little new or more interesting than in many other places.
I found the following ferns, but, with the exception of the
Aspidium ebenuTn, they were not finer than elsewhere — the

Ch XXIII.] THE CAMISARD.

333

universal Odontosoria, Aspidium, cajpense and ebenum^
Gcenopteris vivipara, Nephrodiums, Asplenium lineatum, and
a few other insignificant ones. Instead of numerous species
fringing the road-side, waiting for the botanist to gather them,
we had to hunt diligently for them. Grood ferns are like fairies.
They that -would find them, must search for them well !

I had hoped to find many of the rarer Orchidese there, but we
saw none, save those quite common on every mountain peak in
the island. I picked up a good many land-shells ; some particu-
larly fine ones of the Helix inversicolor and H. Staphylen alive.
The north face of the Camisard is almost perpendicular,
rising about 800 feet, and presents a magnificent specimen of
columnar basaltic rock. It displays a congeries of hexagonal
and pentagonal prisms, from two to six feet long, very regular,
on the main part of the mountain, of a blueish grey tinge. From
their size they must have once formed part of an immense
mass of molten matter, the fissures, constantly occurring, having
been caused by contraction in its cooling.

One section has the appearance of having been toppled over
when in a partially cooled state, and the columns lie in irregular
confused heaps inclined to the west, and resting on the columns
of the main part. Ages ago when the melted rocks formed
these prisms, the whole face of this giant cliff must have presented
a picture equal to that on the coast of Illawana, New South
Wales. The elements have played their usual part and made
wonderful changes since that far-off time. Slowly but surely
are they degrading column after column, forming a loose dry
earth that is washed down continually to the plains ; the ruin
of the upper world of rocks spreading fertility and plenty on
the lower regions where man resides. One by one those ex-
quisitely formed prisms, once as perfect as if shaped by the
most cunning tool ever used by man, are loosened, fall from the
perpendicular and all shape is lost, bent into a mass of debris,
scarcely recognisable. The trauvsverse sections of these prisms
are very distinctly shown where they have fallen and been
broken off sharp.

About half-way down the mountain lies a huge block of blue
basalt, which was detached from above and came crashing down
like an avalanche, till it was arrested in its course at this spot.

334 POINT CAMISARD. [Ch. XXIII.

which is on the edge of a deep ravine. The footpath winds
close to this rock, and as a portion of it projects, it forms a
capital shelter from rain. Some time since an Indian and his
wife sought refuge under it, and while quietly sleeping they
were both cruelly murdered by Maroons, then infesting this
neighbourhood, and their bodies were flung into the ravine
below. The huge boulder is smeared all over with scarlet paint,
and ashes and charred wood lie all round it. In front of it is
a pile of small stones and broken boughs. Our men told us
these were deposited by comrades out of respect for the dead,
who whenever they passed the spot offered a prayer for them,
adding to the pile at the same time. This is similar to the
custom of the Catholics in Spain and many other countries,
who always erect a cross on the spot where murder has been
committed, every passer-by placing an additional stone at its
foot, till I have seen huge piles thus formed heaped together
on the site of some terrible tragedy.

We finished our descent by a narrow path, that led us to our
rendezvous at Point au Diable. Here we left our men and
carrioles to make their way as best they could along the rough
road to Grrand Eiver SE., whilst we kept close to the shore,
collecting marine plants, or making little detours inland, as
some interesting spot tempted us.

We halted for a short time at Grrand River SE., where is the
terminus of the Northern line of railway, at a distance of thirty
miles from Port Louis, and where the Grovernment have built
a substantial stone depot. The village is very small, and prin-
cipally inhabited by fishermen, and a small garrison of soldiers.
The bay is large, and the reefs lie a long distance from the
shore. There is a channel through them, where the chasse-
marees enter, and water enough for them to come quite up to the
village. We crossed the bay with all our traps, and pitched our
tent on a grassy plain on Point Camisard, and near the military
post. There were about fifty men of the 86th here, with their
ofl&cers, who gave us a courteous reception. They have delight-
ful quarters, and had made the most of them by planting the
grounds with pretty-flowering shrubs, and round the house was
a garden filled with flowers. The seeds had been imported
from England, and I was pleased to see so many old favourites
collected together.

Ch. XXIIL] A VOW. 335

About a mile from the post are the Falls of Grrand Ei\^er SE.,
formed by a huge wall of rock arresting the course of the river,
which pours down it in a broad sheet in stormy weather. It is
easily reached, except after heavy rains, and presents a curious
phenomenon, often seen in the rivers here. In a ledge of rock,
ordinarily dry, is a natural basin, scooped out of the solid basalt,
about three or four feet in diameter, and as many deep. The
pool that receives the waters of the cascade abounds with fish.
We embarked in a large boat from the jetty, and rowed along
to get a good view of the coast. The banks are high and bold,
and almost covered with vegetation. Canes meet the eye every-
where. Near this is another ' Beauchamp ' estate, one of the
first sugar plantations in the time of Mahe de la Bourbonnais.

Fine ferns grew in all the interstices of the rocks ; and on the
side of a steep cliff, in a natural niche, about thirty feet from
the water, some devote had placed a white marble figure of the
Virgin. The sailors that rowed our boat, as we neared it, laid
on their oars, and reverently crossed themselves, repeating a
prayer. This statue was placed in this spot in commemoration
of one who was drowned, by a friend who made a vow to the
Virgin, that if the body was recovered her image should be
placed here, and he had well fulfilled his vow.

After passing the place, we came to a part of the river so
rocky that it formed a barrier to our farther progress ; luckily
our sailors were familiar with the place, and steered us clear
of the danger. We landed near the Falls, and strolled along
the banks of the river, which takes its rise in the north of the
Piton du Milieu. At a distance of seven miles are the Dya
Mamou Falls, said to be of great beauty ; but circumstances
prevented our visiting them till a later date. The sea was too
rough for an excursion to the four Isles aux Cerfs, which I had
wished to visit, as I had heard so much of the quantities of
pumice-stone found there.

After leaving the village of Grand Eiver SE., we crossed the
Riviere Seche, which is fed by numerous mountain streams ; and
in a little bay that makes in here, we found quite a number of
interesting plants, but the reefs lay too far off shore for a visit,
so we pushed on to the Trou d'Eau douce. This is also a fishing
village, and derives its name from a quantity of fresh water
that bubbles up on the shore through the saltwater of the tide.

336 PAL MA. [Ch. XXIII.

Near this place are several Mares of brackish water, full offish.
The Mare aux Lubines rises and falls with the tide, but the
Mare aux Fougeres has good drinkable water. In the neigh-
bourhood are large sugar estates ; and in this district are made
many hundreds of sugar bags yearly from the Vacoas, which grow
in great abundance. In former times there were establishments
for the manufacture of indigo ; but this culture, like so many
other useful ones, has been abandoned. One species of Indigo
plant is indigenous to the island.

We encamped off Point Hollandais, near the old Dutch road.
At a place called Palma, in this neighbourhood, is a natural well
or opening in the rocks, about forty feet deep and eighteen in
diameter at the top, which has been walled to prevent animals
from falling in. This has also a communication with the sea,
as the salt water flows into it at the rise of the tide. The Plaine
des Hollandais is rendered fertile by an annual degradation of
the mountains, which debris is washed down, giving a blackish
earth peculiarly favourable to the growth of canes. While ex-
amining the reefs, I found some curious annelides, of a blackish
brown colour, about half an inch in width and nearly eleven feet
in length. I saw them in the tide pools, and when disturbed
they would rapidly disappear in the crevices of the coral beds.
Many of them were in process of multiplying their species by
spontaneous division. I noticed that the animal buried as much
of the body as he wished to separate ; but this division did not
take place always in the centre of the body, as some writers assert,
frequently not a fifth being thrown off. The anterior portion
to be separated appeared to be in a dormant state, which gave
me a good opportunity to examine the separation with a magnify-
ing glass. This portion was very transparent, and all its parts,
even the eyes and antennae, appeared to be as perfect as in the
original animal, but it was only connected with it by a small
thread-like ligament.

I saw numbers of Holothurise, most of them a dirty brown,
mottled with yellowish white. There are several species of this
family here, some of them I had observed at Grrand Port, of a
beautiful orange colour, about six inches in length.

The Actiniae were radiantly beautiful. One species was nearly
eight inches in diameter and six in height, of a purplish colour,
shaded yellow. The tentacles, when fully expanded, were tipped

Ch. XXI 1 1.] CAMPING. 337

with scarlet, forming the most brilliant combination of colours
possible.

We pushed on to Flacq, as we all had friends there. This
is a military post, and some of the 86th, under the command
of Colonel Lowe, were at this station then, and they gave us
a hearty welcome and every comfort the place afforded, very
grateful to tired wanderers. The whole district is one great
cane field. There are some fine estates in it, and said to yield
a very superior quality of sugar. The country is mostly an
undulating plain, with scarcely a tree to relieve the eye, except

round the houses ; and yet this was one of the best wooded parts
of the island: but all have gone down before the almighty
sugar-cane.

Large tracts of Flacq are so encumbered with loose stones
and rocks as to have gained the name of ' Pave.' The soil
is greatly diversified, not only on the same estate, but not
unfrequently in the same fields. In the lower portions the
climate is in summer excessively hot, and droughts often occur ;
but in the more elevated parts rains are frequent, and the contrast
is so great that there is often a difficulty in drying the sugar
on account of the damp. Rice was in former days grown here
to a large extent. As there is so much waste land, it might be
cultivated to great profit. I find the Creole rice, as it is called.

338 LEASES. [Ch. XXllI.

of superior quality. Its grain is very large, and pearly white.
It is the sort named ' dry rice,' from its requiring little artifi-
cial irrigation, and is peculiarly adapted for the hilly uneven
ground of this island.

I was informed that very many of the estates were mortgaged
(the case unhappily too general at the present time), and are
rented on money leases of a peculiar kind. The lessee culti-
vates the ground in canes ; manures, cleans, and cuts them for
the mill ; the lessor, who is generally the owner of the mill as
well as the land, mills the canes, manufactures the sugar, and
advances what money the cultivator requires during the time the
canes are on the ground. When the cowpe is over, one half goes
to the lessor, and the other to the lessee. My impression is, that
these conditions are more favourable to the mill-holder than to
the cane-planter.

With such a variety of soils as this district affords, it seems
to me that the small landowners might grow many things
more profitable than canes — leave the sugar to the large mill-
owners, and grow other articles, particularly those for food for
man and beast, and thus supply the large proprietors, instead
of their being obliged to import almost everything. Vegetables
grow very freely here ; and as to the Patates, or sweet potatoes,
I never saw finer. Grreat talk is made of the Flacq oysters,
but for my part I cannot see in what their goodness consists.
I think them small and flavourless, not worth the trouble of
opening. In 1817, I find there was a splendid harvest at Trois
Flots, in this district, of Nutmegs and Cloves : now there are
few traces of the trees left.

During the occupation of Mauritius by the Dutch, a settle-
ment was formed here, and it received its name from the flat
surface of a great portion of the district.

According to Herbert, an early writer on this island, England
had a prior claim to its possession. He says, the English had
landed in this district before the Portuguese, who, when they
took up their quarters there, found crosses put up in many parts
of the island, thus proving that some Christians had been
there previously, and the credit of it was given to the English ;
though I doubt the fact, for surely if England could have claimed
possession she would not have waited until 1810 to enforce her
claims.

Ch. XXIIL] POUDRE UOR. 339

Monkeys are numerous near the Kiviere Seche, and the Mare
aux Fougeres. In the rocky parts, rats and birds torment the
cultivator, and weeds are very troublesome to the planter.
Through the SE. of this district run two parallel ridges of hills,
the principal of which are the Montague Blanche and Montague
de la Fayence ; the latter attaining the height of 1,338 feet.
About a mile and a half from the military post is a railway
station. I was very much astonished to find soldiers quartered in
such a low swampy place. Not long before we were there
orders came from the Surgeon-Greneral that the soldiers should
vacate their barracks, and occupy tents, which were accordingly
pitched near the sea, and there they were encamped on marshy
land, water running all round them, and in consequence sick-
ness very soon prevailed amongst the men.

We left Flacq well pleased with our visit, and went on to
Poudre d'Or, a squalid, deserted-looking place. It was formerly
a station for troops, but had been abandoned. It owes its name,
not to the colour of its sands, but co a peculiar kind of sugar
said to be made from the canes of this district. They told us
it was famous for elegant corals and shells in the hurricane
season ; but we found nothing to interest us at the village, so
went on to some distance along the shore, and set up our tent,
and here we added greatly to our botanical specimens. I found
a fine species of Grigartina, I think the Gigartina mamillosa.
The water is very shallow, and as the sea was calm, we ventured
off a considerable distance. Eels, Holothiu-ise, and crabs
swarm over the reefs, and we had a try to catch a turtle we saw
feeding on the Sargassum, but he soon disappeared in deep
water.

In this vicinity lies Amber Island, celebrated as the locality
where the St. Greran was wrecked ; but, before our visit to it,
we went to the estate of St. Antoine, where we were cordially
received by its hospitable owner, M. Edmond de Chazal. This
gentleman has a lease of Amber Island, and we felt a delicacy
in going to it till we had obtained permission. No sooner was
our wish known than not only was it acceded to, but a pic-nic
was promptly organised to render our visit agreeable.

This estate is in fine cultivation, and the establishment has
always been kept up in a style worthy of the true gentleman of
the old French school, to which M. de Chazal belongs. His

340 A PATRIARCH. [Ch. XXIII.

reputation for kindness and hospitality has spread far and wide
— from the Grovernors of Mauritius downward all have shared
his large-hearted hospitality. I must add one other mite of
praise, like the ' Old English Grentleman,' —

Although he feasted all the great,
He ne'er forgot the small.

The family mansion is a good substantial one, with that
great addition to comfort in this climate, a wide verandah,
running its whole length supported on heavy columns, pre-
senting a fine appearance as you approach it. A pretty fountain
plays in front amongst the shrubs, and at the back is a large
garden, surrounded with a hedge of the Eoussaille {Eugenia
Michellii), or Brazilian cherry, which, when in flower, resembles
a cherry-tree, with its cloud of fragile white blossoms, though
its bright scarlet ribbed fruit will not carry on the comparison.

Clumps of mangoes also gave shade about the place, and I
only regretted it was not the season for their delicious fruit.

At some distance stands a two-storied house, also with a
verandah. This is the Pavilion, for visitors, quite large enough
for a Mauritian hotel, and I am told it is often filled with
guests.

The sugar-mills were a good way from the dwelling, and they
are fitted with all modern appliances.

There are several other houses about the plantations ; and the
servants' quarters are mostly stone, well ventilated, and the
ground about them kept neat and clean, and showed the care
bestowed on them by their master. Each family seemed to
have its broods of hens and chickens, and some had goats.
Good roads traverse the estate, and one of the young gentlemen
informed me they were made under his father's supervision.

I should mention that our host has a fine family of twelve
sons and daughters, several of whom are married, and following
in their father's steps. When all are assembled, children, sons
and daughters-in-law, grandchildren, and servants, my friend
looks like a patriarch of old at the head of his household, which
resemblance is heightened by a flowing white beard and a bald
head ; and his amiable wife will even yet bear comparison with
her daughters.

On the morning after our arrival, preparations went on

Ch. XXIII.] AMBER ISLAND. 341

vigorously for our excursion to Amber Island, which is about
three miles off. Champagne baskets and sundry suspicious-
looking packages were put into the carriages, and our guns
carefully looked after by a servant, whose especial duty it was
to see them all in order.

The morning was cool, and all were in high spirits. M. de
Chazal's sons and the schoolmaster of the estate accompanied
us, and off we started to see all that could be seen. After a
pleasant drive through the plantation, we were dropped on the
shore near a little jetty, built for the accommodation of visitors
to the island.

A fine yawl was in readiness, and two men pulled us across
the bay. The distance is about a mile, and we landed on an
open sandy beach. A vast bed of coral extends from the shore
to the island, and it will soon fill the whole bay. We dis-
turbed numerous curlews and plovers, that wheeled over our
heads, uttering shrill cries, but they kept out of the range
of our guns.

Amber Island is composed of volcanic rock and lava, and
was formed by "an immense flow in this direction from the
interior of Mauritius, as well as a flow from a large volcano now
submerged, lying in a NE. direction : this is plainly seen on
the E. side, where it has cooled in waves. We passed through
very high grass to an elevated spot where there are three small
houses, one for the guardian, and two for visitors. In one of
these we partook of a capital breakfast prepared by pur kind
host, and after our meal set out to amuse ourselves. The whole
place swarms with rabbits, and some of the party started off
shooting, and some, with myself, went to examine a curious
hole in the centre of the island. I had previously made up my
mind to enter it, so had provided myself with a good stout rope,
and one of our party and two of the servants accompanied me
on the descent.

This opening is circular, about one hundred feet in diameter,
and about twenty-five deep, containing water.

On the south side there is a dry place, and on this we intended

to land. The side of this hole is rough and perpendicular, not

a spot on which to rest a foot, and looks as if cut by hand.

We fixed a rope to some bushes, and down we went hand over

hand to the bottom.

Bb

342 SEA ANEi\WNES. Ch. XXIII.]

A species of fern, the Acrostichum aureum, was growing
list where we landed, and on its fronds I captured a singular
Lspider {Tetragnatha pretensa), then quite new to me. We
disturbed a number of rats and crabs ; and in the deepest water
were mullets, many of them I should think over two pounds'
weight.

The water was brackish, and rose and fell with the tides
though at least half a mile from the sea. This opening has
probably been formed by the falling in of the walls of a cavern,
which doubtless traverses the whole of Amber Island. The
masses of rock heaped up have choked any communication with
either side, although not sufiScient to arrest the flow of water.
At some distance are several caverns opening into the sea, but I
had not time to visit any of them. Near the landing-place Mr.
de Chazal showed me a fissure in the rocks, a few inches wide, ex-
tending some hundreds of yards, and which he said was the top
of a cavern containing water. We could hear its splash as we
flung stones down the opening. We then took a pirogue, and
poled along the bay to have a look at some other small islands,
one of which we landed on. At low water the rocks are covered
with Cypr^ea, particularly the Mauritiana and Tigris. In
all directions were patches of a fleshy Polyp of a lovely peach
colour. They were about six inches in length, and I, at first,
thought they were plants of the genus Callithamnion, which
they closely resembled. I attempted to pluck a handful, and
soon found out my mistake, as they slipped through my fingers,
and could only be separated from the rocks with a knife. Here
again I saw the same lovely Sea Anemones as at Point Hollan-
dais. I wished I had had time to sketch one, and at first I
thought of taking one away with me ; but as I watched the
creature luxuriating in the gently laving water, every wave
bringing it fresh life and vigour, as it had evidently been un-
covered before the turn of the tide, I left it to its little life of
enjoyment. I do not think this animal has been described, nor
many of the Polyps of Mauritius. Their generic names are
well known, but many of the species are quite new. The student
of Natural History would find an interesting field of research in
this branch of science. Catfish are numerous here ; I fre-
([uently saw them with their long arms outstretched for their
prey, but I took good care not to meddle with them. Caulerpas

Ch. XXI II.] SUNSET. 343

abound : one of a quite different species I found, the fronds of
which are very small, and half-buried in the sand.

All these islands are volcanic, doubtless formed at the same
time as Amber Island. The waters rush out of this bay, forming
eddies and miniature whirlpools, so that it was with difficulty
we could prevent the tide carrying our pirogue to the outer reef,
where the waves dash with great violence. I used a small
paddle, and our two men their poles, but it was some time before
we could make any headway. It took a good hoiu-'s work to
reach Amber Island, and the sun was setting before we re-
embarked to return to St. Antoine. Dark heavy clouds were
gathering in the west, their borders dazzlingly illuminated with
the gorgeous rays of the rapidly descending sun. As the day-
god sank into the waves, a crimson and gold lustre streamed
across the ocean, lighting up the foam-crested billows near the
reef, till one could fancy they were the white horses of Neptune,
with waving manes and heads erect, saluting the departing
majesty.

Sunsets in the tropics have been ever a fertile field for de-
scription, and I believe ever will be. They are sights that never
pall, never weary, for there is such constant change and va-
riety, no one ever saw the same sky-scape on different evenings.
Words can give no adequate idea of the scene, and the noblest
artist, when gazing on the picture bathed in such ineffable light,
must lay down palette and brush, and acknowledge that it is
beyond his art, that no earthly pencil can give more than the
faintest rescript of aught so glorious.

We were forty minutes crossing the bay, but I had been so
absorbed in the scene that it seemed hardly a moment before
we reached the shore. We passed up a grove of Filaos and othei
trees to M. de Chazal's house, and a singular effect was produced
by the faint rays of light as the sun sank below the horizon.
A shadow was cast on the dark green foliage, and where the
light struck the leaves, the shadow reflected a deep purple colour
on them.

After sharing our host's large hospitality for the night, and
taking leave of his family, we started off by daybreak in the
direction of Mapou Bay : another spot most interesting in the
history of the island.

To quote the words of an English officer : —

344

NEW MAPOU BAY.

[Ch. XXIII.

' On the 29th of November, 1810, the English fleet, consisting
of seventy sail (chiefly men-of-war and Indiamen), anchored in
the narrow passage formed by the island called Coin de Mer
and the land. To cover the landing two brigs of war drawing
little water anchored near the reef within one hundred yards of
the beach. The boats containing the reserve, consisting of
grenadiers and light infantry, collected outside the reef, and
proceeded to the shore with parade precision. Before the eve-
ning closed, 10,000 men with three days' provisions, and their
complement of guns, stores and ammunition, had disembarked
without resistance. The column moved by the right along the
beach of Mapou Bay for about a mile, and then inclining to the
left fell into a close wood.

NFW MAl'OU BAY.

This wood, like so many others, has gone down before the
hatchet, much to the discomfort of pedestrians, for this is one
of the dry hot districts, with the greatest scarcity of both wood
and water. On the shore we added pretty largely to our col-
lection of Algae, amongst others we procured specimens of
Ectocarpa, Schizonema, Zonaria, Asperococcus, and others
new to me. On a little projection of rock running out into the
bay, I amused myself watching the gambols of the small fish as
they disported in the tide pools. In one little basin, con-
taining about six feet of water clear as crystal, there were

Ch. XXIIL] a large eel. 345

several small Chsetodons, and amongst them two or three of the
riclily coloured Holicanthus semicircidatus. The body of
this fish is of glossy black, with perpendicular lines from the
top of the head to the pectoral fins, alternately of the purest
white and brightest imperial blue. From the pectoral the
lines begin to curve till they form perfect semicircles across
the rest of the body to the tail, the alternate blue line changing
to purple. The second dorsal is covered with a network of
bright blue and yellow wavy lines on a ground of deep maroon.
The caudal fin is half black, banded blue and white, termi-
nating in a fringe of deep yellow. The anal fin is black, with
curiously twisted blue lines. The effect of such a combination
of colour when in the limpid water may be imagined. When
not frightened, it will swim gracefully round and round in
circles, glancing its bright golden eye at the intruder ; but
make the slightest movement, and, like a flash of light, it dis-
appears to its hiding-place, and remains till the fancied danger
is past. I was watching one of these lovely little creatures,
almost breathless lest I should disturb it, when suddenly it
vanished ; and I was curious to see the cause of its panic, as I
was quite innocent of it. After waiting a few seconds, I caught
a glimpse of the head of an eel, not larger than a man's thumb,
protjL'uding through an opening in the coral bed four inches
wide. Finding that the animal did not come out, and that he
was evidently lying in wait for his prey, I determined to take
him, if possible ; so baited a good-sized hook, and suspended it
over his hole. Hook and bait were seized, and I saw that I
had an ugly customer to deal with, a large savage fellow. I
prepared a cod hook with steel chain, and baited and attached
it to a good-sized cod line. He seized greedily, and with a jerk I
drew out his head. I called loudly to Jumna, who was a weak
sickly little man, to hold on tightly to the line, while I jumped
into the water to spear him. He didn't half like the job ; how-
ever, he held on like grim Death. I carefully approached the
hole when the brute came at me boldly. I was a little too quick
for him, and planted my grains into his neck, about six inches
from his head. We then began hauling him out, but it took
all our strength to handle him, for he resisted furiously. We
pulled away nine feet, and still saw no end to his body — ten
feet ! eleven feet ! ' Why,' said I, ' we have caught a young sea

346 THE CAVE EEL. [Ch. XXIII.

serpent.' Twelve feet ! and his tail began to wriggie out. I
then quickly retreated to the rock, and we made for the shore,
dragging our game ; and even on land we had much ado to hold
him, till I despatched him by severing the vertebrae with my
hatchet.

This monster eel measured twelve feet three inches in length,
and round the largest part of the head fourteen and a half inches.
The head of this species terminates in a blunt point, the two
small bright eyes not more than an inch from the end. The
large mouth is filled with long sharp teeth, even the roof is
covered with these formidable weapons. This eel is very dan-
gerous, but not so common as reported. There are several
species of this genus, but none so large as this. The fishermen
call it the ' Cave Eel ' : its specific name I do not know. I
was not a little proud of my game, so kept him, and on my
return had him stuffed, and he now hangs on my office ceiling.

From Mapou Bay we turned inland over narrow paths leading
through the various sugar plantations. The whole of this
([uarter suffers more or less from scarcity of water ; and in some
parts the borer and vegetable plague, the Herbe Caille, do infi-
nite mischief. The country, as far as Pamplemousses, is only
a succession of cane-fields, alternating with fallow land, or plan-
tations of Manioc, or the Ambrevade {Cajcunus flavus), which
are grown as rotation crops — the former largely used as food for
cattle, and the latter affording a small variegated pea (a favour-
ite Creole dish), leaves for fodder, and the brushwood for burning,
besides enriching the ground.

The district of Pamplemousses is a vast plain, bounded on
one side by Mount Longue, L'Embrasure, Peter Both, La
Nouvelle Decouverte, and the heights of Villebague, and Piton,
and stretching away to the sea on the other. There are two
large marshes, the Peter Both and Nicoliere, with some lessei
ones near the village, caused by infiltration from the rivers and
canals. These have been the source of the malaria, which has
produced deplorable effects on its population, showing a death
rate during the fever next to that of Port Louis.

The railway station at Pamplemousses is a few yards distant
from the soi-disant tombs of Paul and Virginia, and a short
stroll takes you into the heart of the village. Its appearance
is pleasing, from the number of gardens and fine trees about it :

Ch. XXI I L]

BOTANICAL GARDENS.

347

but here, as in every place in the island, two-thirds of the
houses are in a ruinous condition. Standing in its midst are
the Botanical Gardens, which form so conspicuous a feature
from tlie abundance of fine flowering trees even on their
borders, the branches hanging over into the public roads.

In the centre, on a slight rise, stands an old-fashioned- look-
ing Catholic church, its white tower, which possesses a fine
clock, forming a landmark for many a mile away. The grounds
round it are nicely laid out, and surrounded with a capital

PROTESTANT CHURCH.

thorny fence, which overtops the wall, the Helicieres hirsuta, I
think, a species of heliotrope, cut till it forms an impervious
mass. The pink and yellow blossoms look very gay ; but beware
plucking them for tlieir beauty, for not only do they bristle
with sharp thorns, but they do not breathe odours of Araby.^
A large cemetery is near the church, adorned with shrubs and
flowers, and containing some tine tombs, unhappily but too
much augmented of late years. A small Protestant church and
parsonage stand on an eminence at one side of the village. Its
tower is still incomplete, and it has little architectural beauty
to boast. The only other noticeable building is a convent, with

^ The Creoles give it the name of ' Vieille Fille.'

348 VALLEY DES PRETRES. [Ch. XXIII.

the best kept garden in the place. After resting in one of the
summer houses of the only hotel, and refreshing ourselves after
a long tramp to see all there was to see, we at last turned our
faces homeward, and set off on the high road to Port Louis.

Since the establishment of the railway, which diverged from
the former route, this road has little traffic, and very hot and
dusty we found it. For a good way canes lined the sides of
our path, but the waste lands were more numerous, particularly
the nearer we approached the city. We passed the little village
of Calebasses and Terre Eouge^ which, with the exception of a
station house, police quarters, and half-a-dozen small cottages,
are mere collections of Indian huts. Then we came to the new
Cemetery of Rois Marchand, with its glaring red earth and rows
on rows of graves of the fever victims. Along this route we
see a range of hills, which is a branch of the Peter Both
Mountain. The varied peaks are most picturesque, and in the
distance stands the far-famed giant himself. Seen from this
point of view, the summit of it presents the appearance of a
lady in long sweeping robes, and a regal tiara on her head, a
fair imaginary likeness of Queen Victoria with her sceptre in her
hand. All is beautiful as we raise our eyes to these heights ;
but lower them to our surroundings, and the contrast is strik-
ingly disagreeable. The whole foreground is filled with dirty
Malabar camps, that lie in a waste of long coarse grass and
wild aloes, with a few straggling Tamarind or Bois noir trees.

To the left, as you approach the city, is the Valley des
Pretres, at the far end of which stands the pretty little Catholic
Church of St.-Croix, densely shaded witli trees. The Latanier
River, sacred to the Indians, runs through this valley ; and there
are many small gardens where vegetables are grown for the
market.

The main Pamplemousses road crosses what were formerly
the limits of Port Louis. A line of defence extended from the
Fanfaron Battery across this road, and terminated in a small
redoubt on the crest of one of the ridges that branch out from
the Pouce. Another line ran down the rocky base of the
Mountain de Decouverte to the Moka Road, and the plain
between this and Fort William (then Fort Blanc) was defended
by three redoubts ; but all were more or less dilapidated, even
at the surrender of the Island in 1810. Now little remains,

Ch. XXIII.] HOMEWARD. 349

save a few earthworks here and there, and occasionally a few of
the old guns are planted in the ground as boundary marks
round the police stations.

The change of atmosphere, so perceptible as you near the
city, is felt on rising the hill at its northern entrance. The
bustle and din of the docks to our right, the mule-carts urged
along by the loud discordant voices of the Malabars, the cries
of itinerant vendors of vegetables — ' Bouteilles vides,' ' Gronys,'
' Du lait,' &c. &c., all screaming out, told us plainly enough of
our whereabouts.

Our long trip was over, and we were not sorry to regain the
comforts of home. All were delighted with our ramble, and
we had succeeded in our object of viewing the principal parts
of the Island, and had added largely to our stores of marine
plants, shells, specimens of Natural History, &c., to say nothing
of the stock of health laid in by breathing so long the cool
bracing air.

As I have said before, Mauritius is a country of exceeding
interest to the geologist and naturalist, and one in which a
sojourn may be made very profitably for the advancement of
science. The whole of it, with the exception of a few mountain-
tops, is accessible. Much of it is wearisome and monotonous
in the extreme to pass over ; and, beautiful as a cane-field is,
the eye tires when an endless succession of them is presented.

None, however, can view the innumerable and fantastic
peaks, some bare and precipitous, striking boldly against the
sky, others broken into pinnacles, bulky fragments that seem
tottering, ready to fall and overwhelm all beneath ; the gorges
and ravines, the rough work of the long extinct volcano,
and ever-wearing Time ; the over-hanging rocks, with their
feathery foliage to the water's edge ; the deep river, or limpid
stream, both alike hurrying on to be lost in the ocean ; none,
or very few, I think, can gaze on these without emotions of
deepest delight. There are soft landscapes, delicious sea-views,
that will leave pleasant memories for life ; and, though I may
be far from the ' Grem of the Ocean,' when this volume is
published, I can never forget the enjoyment I have received
amongst its glorious old hills, nor will the remembrance of the
friends who shared my many excursions ever fade.

I will close this long chapter by quoting the words of one of

550

HOMEWARD.

Ch. XXIII.]

Nature's true poets, whose verses, though addressed to scenes
far distant, will admirably express my feelings on the subject, by
only substituting cane for corn lands in the foLirth line : —

Homeward once again. Ah ! vanished mountains,
Like old friends, your faces, many a day,
O'er the bowery woods shall rise before me
And the level cane lands far away.

Yet I bear with me a new possession ;
For the memory of all beauteous things.
Over dusty tracks of straitened duties,
Many a waft of balmy fragrance brings.

Was it thriftless waste of golden moments
That I watched the seaward, burning west.
That I sought the sweet rare mountain flowers.
That I climbed the rugged mountain-crest ?

Let me rather dream that I have gathered,
On the lustrous shore and gleamy hill,
Strength to bravely do the daily duty,
Strength to calmly bear the chancing ill.

SKETCH OF ISLA^fD.

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE HISTORY OF MAURITIUS,

Frum its Discovery by the Portuguese, in 1505, through the various Changes of
Government it has undergone during its Possession by the Dutch, then by the
French, and lastly, by the English, to February 1871.

The Island of Mauritius is situated between the tropics, within
three degrees of Capricorn, 100 miles NE. of Bourbon and E.
of Madagascar. Its greatest length is 39 miles, and breadth
nearly 34. The area is about 700 square miles, the exact
measurement being given as 432,680 acres. The length of the
coast-line is about 135 miles.

It was not until the sixteenth century that the existence of
this island was known to the civilised world. Don Pedro de
Mascaregnas, in 1505, during the first year of the administra-
tion of Almeida, Grovernor-General of the Portuguese posses-
sions of India, when exploring these seas, discovered this
and the sister isle ; to the latter he gave his own name,
and called the former Cerne ; why is unknown, except that it
might be a fanciful allusion to the Dodo, or to some other bird of
the same species that he found on its shores. The Portuguese,
however, did not avail themselves of their new acquisitions.
They contented themselves with fixing their geographical
positions, and landing some deer, goats, monkeys and pigs, the
descendants of which are still found wild, in retired parts of the
Island. Though they retained the Isle of Cerne till 1598, they
seem only to have considered it as a simple station for taking
in refreshments, believing that this route would always be kept
a secret, and that they had nothing to fear from any encroach-
ment of other European powers on their monopoly of commerce
with India.

On May 1, 1598, a squadron of eight ships, under the com-
mand of Admiral Wvbrand von Warwick, left the Texel to

352 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

repair to the Dutch possessions in Batavia. These vessels were
dispersed off the Cape of Grood Hope by a violent storm, and
several of them, including the Admiral's ship, sighted the Isle
of Cerne on September 17.

The Dutch, not knowing its name, sent two boats to recon-
noitre the shores, and discovered a harbour on the SE. Being
ignorant if the Island was inhabited or not, the Admiral used
the greatest caution, on account of the sickly state of his crews.
He landed a large party of his men, and took up such a position
as to prevent surprise. On the following day, boats were sent
out to examine the other parts of the Island, and find out if
there were any inhabitants. His men met with a great variety
of birds, which surprised them by their familiarity, and the
facility with which they were taken. They discovered water in
abundance, and an astonishing vegetation. On the shore was
found 300 cwt. of bees' wax, a hanging stage, the spar of a cap-
stan, and a large yard, evidently the relics of some unfortunate
vessel that had been buried in the waves. They found no other
traces of human beings. After having retm-ned thanks to Grod,
for having brought them to so fair a harbour, the Vice- Admiral
named the Island ' Mauritius,' after Count Maurice of Nassau,
then Stadtholder of Holland, and the port ' Warwick Harbour,'
after himself.

He left no settlers here, but ordered a board to be fixed to a
tree, bearing the arms of Holland, and planted a piece of ground
with vegetable seeds, as an experiment on the soil. A year
after he returned to Mauritius, and was enabled to supply his
ships with abundance of fish, fowl, and fruits.

From this period it does not appear that the Island was re-
visited till May 12, 1601 when Hermansen availed himself of its
recent discovery to supply his ship with provisions and water.

The period at which the Dutch formed their first settlement
is doubtful; but in 1613 it became the resort of the pirates
who infested the Indian Seas. This circumstance, and the
threatening aspect of European affairs, caused the Dutch to
turn their attention to the Island so long neglected ; but it
was not till 1 644 that a permanent establishment took place.

It is said that at this time the SE. port was chosen for the

first colonisation of the Island. The Grovernor selected was

Van der M ester ; who, after a areful examination of the re-

Ch. XXIV.] DUTCH AND MAROONS, 353

sources of the place, saw that the energies of the new colony
would be greatly hindered for want of labourers. He therefore
sent a vessel to Madagascar to buy slaves, in order to supply
this deficiency. Pronis, the French Grovernor, acceded to this
proposal, and kidnapped a number of Malagashes, who had
settled themselves under his protection. This breach of faith,
which was the ruin of both colonies, was considerably aggra-
vated in the eyes of the natives, when they discovered that
amongst the captives were sixteen women of the race of the
Lohariths (a superior caste).

Scarcely had they landed at Mauritius, when a great part of
them escaped to the woods ; and the rest, goaded by their severe
treatment, soon followed this example.

It was thus that the body of men called Maroons (i.e. out-
laws) was formed, which, forced by the pains of hunger and the
desire of vengeance, was ever on the alert to attack and insult
its oppressors.

The Dutch, harassed on one side by these depredators, and
on the other checked by the parsimony of the East India
Company, were forced to abandon the Island.

The Maroons, fearing their return, still kept to their moun-
tain fastnesses, whence sallying forth on the crews of vessels
which came to the Island for refreshments, they frequently sur-
prised and cut them off.

To remedy these disasters, it was resolved in the Greneral
Council of Batavia that the Dutch should re-establish them-
selves in Mauritius. Three settlements were immediately
formed : one on the NW., another upon the SE., and a third
upon the Eiviere Noire. M. la Mocuis was named Grovernor.
State criminals from Batavia and other of the Dutch posses-
sions were now banished to Mauritius. M. Eodolphe Deodate,
a native of Geneva, and a man of feeble character, succeeded
M. la Mocuis.

The Dutch raised a fort in the SE. called Frederic-Henri,
which was entirely bm-nt by the blacks ; but in 1694, it wat.
rebuilt of stone. This fortress was armed with twenty pieces
of cannon, with a garrison of fifty soldiers, and enclosed the
Grovernor's house, the magazines, and the principal buildings of
the Company. The planters, numbering about forty families,
spread over the district of Flacq, where the Company established

354 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS, [Ch. XXIV.

gardens, and drew thence such supplies of fruit and vege-
tables as were required for the garrison. A few inhabitants
settled at the NW. port, called ' Camp,' and three or four fami-
lies went to the district of the Eiviere Noire. Their principal
occupation was the culture of tobacco.

Towards the commencement of the eighteenth century, the
Dutch East India Company, finding that their possession of
the Island was only a source of continued troubles, resolved to
abandon it a second time. Their troops were sent to the Cape of
Grood Hope, and tne occupation of Mauritius by the Dutch
ceased entirely.

Mauritius under French Rule.

The final abandonment of the Island by the Dutch did not
long escape the observation of the French at Bourbon. M.
de Beauvilliers, then Governor of that island, sent M. Du-
fresne, captain of the ship ' Chasseur,' to take formal possession
of Mam-itius, in the name of the King of France, on the 20th of
September, 1715, and its name was changed to that of Isle of
France. Notwithstanding this, and the founding of an establish-
ment at the NW. port (Port Louis), Dufresne departed without
leaving anyone to maintain the new acquisition ; and it was only
at the end of 1721 that a permanent settlement was effected. On
the 25th of September of that year, Le Chevalier Jean-Baptiste
Grarnier de Fougerai, commander of the ' Triton ' of St. Malo,
retook possession in the name of the French East India Com-
pany, to whom it had been ceded by the King. M. de Nyon, a
knight of the order of St. Louis, was selected by M. de Beau-
villiers, in October, to fill the place of Governor, but he did not
arrive till January 1722.

He commenced his administration by the establishment of
a provincial council, composed of six of the principal inha-
bitants: dependent, however, on the principal council of
Bourbon.

M. de Nyon, following the example of the Dutch, fixed the
seat of government at the SE. port. The only events that
marked his administration were an attempted sedition by a part
of the troops, which was soon appeased, and the increased penal-
ties attached to ' Maroonage,' on account of the number of
recently imported slaves, who had escaped to the Maroons left

Ch. XXIV.] UNDER FRENCH RULE. 355

by the Dutch. On the 26th of August, 1726, M. Dumas^ was
chosen Grovernor-Greneral of the two colonies ; but, as his resi-
dence was in Bourbon, the resources of the Isle of France were
not developed. The French East India Company were several
times on the point of giving up a colony that, as affairs were con-
ducted, was only an expense, but some event always occurred to
hinder their design. M. Dumas was succeeded, in October 1 728,
by M. de Maupin, who, like his predecessor, was Grovernor of both
islands.

The most violent hurricane till then experienced by the colo-
nists was felt during his administration, and the terror occa-
sioned by this disaster was increased by an unexpected irrup-
tion of Maroons, who drove out the inhabitants of the district
of Flacq.

About this time, the East India Company, wishing to render
the Island of some use, sent out M. de Cossigny, an engineer, to
make a more minute survey of it. From his report the Com-
pany saw at once that the position of the Island was advanta-
geous for commerce with the East. In order to put an end
to the anarchy and confusion then reigning, and to provide
means of defence for both islands, in November 1734, Mahe
de Labourdonnais, who had already visited the Island, was
named Governor, with full powers to carry out the projects
of the Company. The stringent measures they ordered him
to enforce placed serious difficulties in the way of his
success. On his arrival in 1735, his first care was to ascertain
the resources of the Island. Finding that the SE. port pre-
sented no advantages, either as a seat of Grovernment or for
outward commerce, he resolved to abandon it, and turned his
whole attention to the NW. port, or Port Louis. One of his
first acts was to procure letters patent from the King, to confer
superiority in the Council of the Isle of France over that of
Bourbon. This was attended with the most successful results,
as it put an end to the discord prevalent in the two councils
till this period ; and during the eleven years of his government
there was but one lawsuit, as he accommodated all disputes by
his own amiable interposition.

With great trouble he succeeded in destroying the formi-
dable band of Maroons, which still spread terror over the Island.
Of commerce there was scarcely a trace on his arrival. He

356 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

began by planting the sugar-cane, and so successfully, that in
1750, the sugar works which he constructed produced a clear
annual revenue to the Company of 60,000 livres.

He established manufactures of cotton and indigo, for which
he found a market at Surat, Mocha, Ormuz, and in Europe.

The inhabitants, sunk in apathy and indolence, had utterly
neglected the advantages agriculture offered, but the indo-
mitable energy of the Grovernor at length awoke a spirit of
enterprise and activity in the people. He induced them to cul-
tivate the grains necessary to the subsistence of the two islands,
that they might be no longer subject to the almost periodical
dearths. He introduced the manioc from St. lago and the
Brazils, but had great difficulty in overcoming the prejudices of
the planters against it. There was neither engineer nor archi-
tect in the Island. Fortunately M. de Labourdonnais united
both in himself; and, in the face of obstacles few would have
had the courage to surmount, he carried out his projects for the
prosperity of Mauritius. Trees were felled, and stone quarried ;
carts constructed, and roads made, for up to that time transport
by land was almost impracticable. The only hospital was a
large hut containing about thirty beds. He ordered the con-
struction of one in which from four to five hundred beds could
be placed.

A detail of all the works erected would be far too long for
this summary ; suffice it to observe, they consisted of magazines,
arsenals, batteries, fortifications, barracks, mills, quays, offices,
shops, canals, and aqueducts. Previous to his arrival, water had
to be sought at a league from town ; so he caused an aqueduct to
be constructed nearly six miles in length (the remains of which
still exist), which was of inexpressible advantage both to the
inhabitants and ships which touched there for refreshment.

So ignorant were the people of even the rudiments of ship-
building, that, to mend their fishing boats, they were obliged
to have recourse to the ships' carpenters. M. de Labourdon-
nais, grieved to see an island so neglected, which from its central
position might be a second Batavia, or at least an entrepot for
the commerce of the Indian Ocean, and a refuge for the Com
pany's vessels, directed his genius to the improvement of it'
maritime advantages. His efforts were rewarded so well, tha^
in a few years there were wet and dry docks, and a ship of wai

Ch. XXIV.] LABOURDONNAIS. 357

was built at Port Louis, and sent to France, where it was re~
ceived with great approval. Ships could be refitted with as
much facility as at any port in the East. But all these gigantic
enterprises, and his untiring energy for the benefit of the co-
lony, only served to excite jealousy and calumny, and his de-
tractors spared no pains to blacken and defame his character.
He received little appreciation of his services even from the East
India Company ; and when obliged to return to France, on the
death of his wife, in 1740, he found so strong a prejudice against
him from the reports of his secret enemies, that he demanded a
public investigation of his conduct. This trial was so favourable
for him, that both the ministers and directors of the Company
expressed their approbation of his conduct, and refused to
accept his resignation. As war was then imminent between
the Em*opean Powers, he was sent out, on April 5, 1741, with
a squadron for the East.

He arrived at the Isle of France in August, and ordered a
fortress to be erected for the defence of Port Louis, and directed
the inhabitants to be trained to the use of arms. He departed
for Bourbon to arrange for the protection of that island also.
He visited all the dependencies, and gave his name Mahe to the
chief of the Seychelles group, on his way to Pondicherry. His
management of affairs there was such as to merit the highest
approbation, and on his return to his government, in 1742,
letters patent of nobility were sent to him from the King.
But the Grovernor's efforts for the increase of commerce were
checked by the Company's orders to disarm his squadron.
In 1744, finding himself obliged to remain in his govern-
ment, he himself set to work for the internal progress of the
colony.

It is needless to enter into detail of the ruinous policy of
the French in their Eastern possessions, after war was declared
with England. It is sufficient to say that all the efforts of M.
de Labourdonnais for their protection were rendered abortive by
the vacillating conduct of the Company. Still more to disable
him, an extraordinary drought had occasioned an alarming
scarcity, and the harvests of the current year were ravaged by
locusts, so that he was destitute of provisions for his ships of
war. The ' St.-Geran,' a large ship laden with stores for the
island, was wrecked on the Isled'Ambre, in 1745. This disaster

Cc

358 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

inspired Bernardin de St.-Pierre with his delightful romance of
' Paul and Virginia ' ; but it struck such terror into the inhabi-
tants of both islands, that it was with extreme difficulty the
Grovernor could procure crews for his ships.

In March 1746, he set sail for India, leaving M. de St.-
Martin as Deputy- G^overnor, and Baron Grant was intrusted
with the military defences. The limits of this short history
will not allow of our following this great man in his military
career. On his return to the Isle of France, he found that M.
David had been sent out to make fresh enquiries into his con-
duct, and to supplant him as Governor ; but his acts during the
whole of his administration were found so irreproachable, that
M. David did not hesitate to deliver to him the order of the
King, to command the squadron then leaving for Europe. Thus
terminated the connection of M. de Labourdonnais with the Isle
of France, which had lasted eleven years — years fruitful in
events of the utmost importance to the colony. Indeed, he may
be said to be the founder of Mauritius. ' His memory, ' says
a local historian, ' still remains in every heart ; his portrait is
in every house, his memoirs in every library, and his statue
in the Place d'Armes.'

The government of M. David was of little importance, except
that the manufactures of cotton and indigo were nearly abandoned
as failures. In 1748, an attempt was made by the English to
take thae Island ; but Admiral Boscawen, deceived as to the
strength of its defences, and the show of resistance, thought
success impossible with the force then available, and relinquished
the design.

M. David was succeeded in 1750 by his brother-in-law, M.
Bouvet. About this time were sent out, for scientific purposes,
M. Dapres Mannevillette and the Abbe de la Caille. The former
became distinguished for his acquirements in hydrography,
and published a series of charts that have been little invali-
dated by recent discoveries.

In 1754 the small-pox broke out, and a severe hurricane
devastated the Island.

M. Magon succeeded M. Bouvet in 1755, and began his
government by a general permission to cut wood ; which was
done to such a ruinous extent, that in 1761 the East India
Company sent particular directions to the Governor to stop

Ch. XXIV.] POPULATION. . 359

the evil, and actually forbid the stripping the shores of wood
near the port.

M. Desforges Boucher, the last of the Company's governors,
followed M. Magon in 1759. His principal attention was
devoted to the cultivation of Eeduit, which had been founded
by M. David, and where a botanical garden was begun.

After all the exertions of M. de Labourdonnais, the Isle of
France was quite unable to supply sufficient provisions even for
the inhabitants. The commercial retrospect gives proof of the
violent restrictions on the part of the Company to every effort
for the advancement of individual enterprise. All agricultural
benefits were monopolised. Men were sent out from the mother-
country who were unused to labour, and who understood no thing
of husbandry. Lands were distributed at a venture ; and out
of 149,067 acres ceded, only 6,335 were in cultivation.

Notwithstanding the arbitrary measures adopted by the Com-
pany in all the Eastern possessions, the war had so reduced the
finances that they were obliged to renounce them all, including
the Isles of France and Bourbon, to meet the demands of their
creditors; and thus in 1767, the Island reverted to the crown
of France.

According to the Abbe Eaynal, the population at this period
amounted only to 3,163 whites, 587 free people, and 15,022
slaves. The produce did not exceed 105,712^., and about
twenty bales of cotton : valued in francs as follows, wheat,
320,600; rice, 474,000; maize, 1,570,000; beans, 142,700;
oats, 135,500.

No sooner had the King taken over the Isle of France, than a
total change was effected in its government. In July 1767,
MM. Dumas and Poivre were sent out, one as Grovernor, the
other as Intendant and Commissary-General of the Marine.

Diuing the rule of the East India Company, the laws and
customs of Paris were followed ; and when under kingly govern-
ment, the laws put in force were, first, the customs of Paris ;
second, those laws and ordinances made for the mother-country,
which were ordered to be registered and published in the
colony ; third, the laws and bye-laws made expressly for the
Island, and which are comprised in the Code Laleu. M. Dumas
was recalled at the expiration of a year, and was temporarily
replaced by M. Steinhaven. The Superior Council was reformed,

36o HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

and was composed of those colonists remarkable for wealth and
intelligence, and soon after became both a legislative and ju-
dicial body. The governors were enjoined in every case to
give the preference to native colonists for all public functions.

The harbour of Port Louis, having been obstructed to such a
degree as to cause serious inconveniences to the shipping, was
cleansed and deepened by M. Fromelin. M. Poivre, the Intend-
ant, had been connected with the Isle of France, by a series of
essential services, long before his appointment to the newly
created office. He was an eminent naturalist and philosopher.
One of his first projects was the transplantation of the spices to
the Isles of France and Bom'bon, the culture of which was con-
centrated at the Moluccas.

After great difficulties too long to narrate here, he succeeded
in introducing the nutmeg and clove, and enriched the Island
with a large collection of valuable and ornamental trees and
shrubs procured from the East.

This was about the time when the power of the Company
was in decadence ; but when the King resumed the control of
these Eastern possessions, the ministry pressed the return of M.
Poivre, as the only man who could repair the disasters that
had ensued since the time of M. de Labourdonnais ; and, much
against his will, he was sent out as Intendant, with the cordon
of St. Michael and letters of nobility.

He was not long in putting things on their former footing ;
and such was his activity, that in spite of the two successive
hurricanes that ravaged the islands in one year (when the
' Vert Grallant ' was sunk, and the ' Ambulant ' wrecked in
the pass at Morne Brabant), under his encouragement, the
produce of both was so increased as to bring in abundant crops
of maize, rice, and other grains ; and from the resources his
foresight had provided, he served both troops and fleet that had
been sent out by the ministers to carry on the war.

He introduced from Madagascar, the Cape, and India, every
domestic animal and production suited to the consumption of
the inhabitants, and imported a number of cattle and sheep to
stock the Island.

In 1772 arrived the Chevalier de Ternay and Maillard Du-
meste, the former as Grovernor, the latter as Intendant, to
replace MM. Desroches and Poivre.

Ch. XXIV.] MONSIEUR CER^. 3^1

A weekly journal was established, which the increasing popu-
lation and extension of commerce rendered necessary.

The Island was reduced to eight districts, in lieu of eleven, as
had been fixed by the Ordinance of August 6, 1768. Ad-
ditional administration and police regulations were also en-
acted.

At this time M. Poivre purchased an enclosm-e, at some
distance from Port Louis, called Mon Plasir, where he formed a
magnificent garden, containing every plant he could procure
from both hemispheres. He instructed M. Cere in all the
details of Asiatic cultivation of the spices he had so successfully
planted, and soon after ceded the place to the King, for the
original price he had given for it ; and this became the now cele-
brated King's Garden at Pamplemousses.

M. Cere so well carried out the plans of M. Poivre after his
departm-e, that he secured the first harvest of cloves and nut-
megs in 1777. The joy then felt is unappreciable now, as the
clove-trees propagated in the several districts have all been
destroyed to make way for the sugar-cane.

In 1773 a violent hurricane occm'red, which laid in ruins 300
houses in Port Louis ; thirty-two ships were stranded on the
banks of the harbour, and the church fell in, crushing several
people in its ruins.

In 1 744, the powder-mills exploded with great loss of life to
the military, and the ship ' Mars ' was burned in the harbour.

M. Ferney, who was much more feared than loved, was
relieved by the Chevalier de Griran la Brillane, December, 1777.
Frustrated in all his efforts for the good of the colony, after
two years of inquietude, he died, and was bm-ied with few marks
of respect. The Vicomte Souillac, Governor of Bourbon, ar-
rived on the death of M. la Brillane. The war at this time,
so far from proving a check to the prosperity of the Island,
brought a crowd of vessels, which, by introducing abundance,
changed into luxury the simple manners of the inhabitants.
Seconded so well by M. Foucault, Intendantin 1777, afterwards
by M. Chevrau, 1781, and lastly by M. Mortens de Narbonne,
in 1785, the Vicomte supplied the wants of the squadrons of M.
Orve and Admiral Suffrieu, and the armies of MM. Duchenian
and Dubussey so effectually that the attention of the mother-
country was again called to the importance of the colony.

362 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

The old East India Company was dissolved and a new one
formed, with the enjoymentof a monopoly of trade between France,
India, and China. As a special mark of favour to the Isles of
Bom"bon and France, permission was given to the inhabitants
to trade with the East (mostly benefiting the latter, since it
alone possessed harbours where ships could anchor in safety).
Thus the ships of the Company and the two colonies were able
to navigate the Indian Ocean, to the exclusion of all the other
French ships. These latter were allowed to convey European
merchandise to the Isle of France, to be disposed of in the
East (China excepted). This measure rendered the colony a
vast entrepot between Europe and Asia, and hence arose a
sudden and factitious prosperity. Industry was turned to com-
merce alone, and agriculture was again neglected. The Vicomte
Souillac sailed for India in 1706, leaving the government in
the hands of M. de Fleury. The Island had been for thirteen
years without a hurricane, but this year it was again visited by
that scoui'ge.

The latter part of the administration of the Vicomte, and the
two years of that of M. d'Entrecastreaux, who arrived in 1787,
were passed in tranquillity, with the exception of a hurricane,
in which the frigate ' Venus ' perished, with fifteen children of
the best families, who had embarked for France, sent by their
parents to finish their education. In 1789, the Comte de
Conway relieved M. d'Entrecastreaux, and M. Dupuy succeeded
M. de Narbonne as Intendant-Greneral.

The power enjoyed by the Governors and Intendants having
been of late exercised in an arbitrary manner, the inhabitants,
anxious to free themselves from it, looked forward with impa-
tience to the news of the French Eevolution, which broke out
in 1789. A vessel from Bordeaux, in 1790, brought the intelli-
gence of the great power the National Assembly of France had
usurped to itself. On the landing of the captain, ofl&cers, and
crew who had assumed the tri-colom'ed cockade, and on their
relating the occurrences in France, the flames of revolutionary
violence burst forth in all parts of the colony, and the tricolom-
was everywhere adopted.

Assemblies were formed to draw up memorials of demands
and claims, and a most tumultuous meeting took place in the
church. The Comte de Conway, with all the prejudices of t^

Ch. XXIV.] A REVOLUTION. 363

old noblesse, made no concessions to calm the popular spirit,
but sent a party of soldiers to arrest tbe men who had posted
up the placards and planted the tricoloured flag, and went to
the Intendant's house to consult about measures for resistance ;
but the people rescued the prisoners on their way to gaol, and,
following the Grovernor, compelled him to wear the national
cockade.

Fruitless were all the efforts of the Superior Council to main-
tain peace and order ; excesses of all kinds were committed,
ending in the murder of M. de Macnamara, Commandant of the
French Marine in the Indian Ocean, in the principal street of
Port Louis. The crime was unpunished, as it was not thought
advisable to carry out the orders for bringing the perpe-
trators to justice ; but the horror excited by this bloody out-
rage, the first that had stained the annals of the Island with
crime, restrained in a great measure the violence which inun-
dated France and her other colonies with the blood of victims
to barbarity and injustice.

The Comte de Conway, unable to reconcile his principles with
the feelings of the times, resigned the reins of government into
the hands of M. de Fleury, July 12, 1790. M. de Malartic
was named Grovernor-Greneral by Louis XVI., a short time
before his deposition, and arrived in June 1792.

He found the two colonies each governed by its particular
Assembly, whose decrees had the force of laws after receiving
the sanction of the Governor. The National Assembly of
France had expressly recognised the new order of things, and
an attempt was made to effect the gradual removal of abuses by
three decrees : one of which forbade the mutilation of Maroons
or fugitive slaves after capture ; the second abolished the trade
in slaves ; and the third established political equality between
the whites and free citizens of colour, a class of recent origin.

The paternal administration of the new Grovernor tended
greatly to quiet the agitation of the colony ; but the news of
the dominancy of the Jacobins and the anarchy in France
again roused the passions of the people.

In this state of things, the most prudent and influential
united their efforts with the Governor and the majority of
the Colonial Assembly ; but they were not able to hinder the
formation of a Jacobin club, called the Chaumiere, and the

364 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

erection of a guillotine in the public square. The new club
soon rivalled the constituted authority, and compelled M. de
Malartic to grant them a sloop to send 100 men to Bourbon to
arrest M. Duplessis Vigoureux, the Grovernor ; M. Fayal, the
Civil Commissary ; and M. de St.-Felix, with some others, under
the pretext that they were in correspondence with the English.

On che arrival of the prisoners, they were fettered and thrown
into a dungeon, where they remained six months. Orders were
given that they should be judged by a court-martial alone,
named by all the citizens of the colony, united in assemblies
each in its own district. The delay occasioned by this pro-
ceeding at length succeeded in putting a stop to the effer-
vescence of the Jacobins, and the guillotine, undefiled by human
blood, became a simple Jacobin formality, in happy contrast to
that terrible instrument of slaughter in France. Before the
trial could come on, a decree arrived from the Greneral Conven-
tion, abolishing slavery in all the colonies and dependencies
of France. In a community of 59,000 persons, where 49,000
were slaves, such a summary decree, without a word of com-
pensation, may be well supposed to have created universal
alarm.

The Jacobin club was annihilated, the guillotine removed,
the prisoners released, and about thirty of the principal Jaco-
bins arrested, and at once deported to France.

The planters knew not what step to take, believing that if
the decree were not annulled, similar scenes to the recent
horrors in St. Domingo were inevitable. Some proposed to
declare the colony independent, others sought to stay the pro-
mulgation of the decree.

M. de Malartic, profiting by the authority he had obtained,
in reserving to himself the execution of the laws, induced the
Assembly to pass a resolution by which no laws or revolution-
ary decrees emanating from France, unless previously examined
and sanctioned, should be published or executed in the Isle of
France. While deliberating, four frigates, under Vice- Admiral
Percy, arrived with two agents from the French Directory,
named Braco and Brunei.

The colonists protested against their landing, but in vain.
Dressed in Dictatorial costume, they landed in state, and pro-
ceeded to take on themselves the government of the Assembly.

Ch. XXIV.] A CONSPIRACY. 365

Before three days had passed, the menacing tone of the
agents was such as to give serious alarm. They threatened to
guillotine the Grovernor, and proceeded to such severe measures,
that at length it became evident that it was their intention to
execute the decree for the abolition of slavery and the slave
trade.

The inhabitants, awakened to a sense of their imminent
danger, determined at once to enforce the deportation of the
agents, and but for the exertions of the Grovernor and others,
who arrested them and sent them on board under a strong
escort, they would never have escaped alive.

A conspiracy amongst the soldiers, to assist in emancipating
the slaves, gave further trouble ; but the energetic conduct of
Grovernor (now Greneral) Malartic soon put a stop to it, by
forcing all the disaffected, to the number of 800, to embark in
a vessel then leaving for France.

The colony now looked forward with confidence to a state of
comparative tranquillity ; but disputes soon arose with respect
to the laws about to be enacted for the reimbursement of the
debts contracted in paper currency (bullion not being obtain-
able), the depreciation of which had increased in such a pro-
portion as to bear a real value less by a thousandth part than
the sum it nominally represented. In the "melee of discordant
interests, the Colonial Assembly endeavoured to adopt a mode
of payment founded on just principles, when the creditors
entered into a conspiracy with the Sans-culottes, and a number of
lawless adventurers, to dissolve the Assembly.

In November, 1799, the conspiracy broke out, and, for a
time. Port Louis bore the appearance of a civil war.

The insurgents at length, in spite of the bravery and spirit
of the President of the Assembly, Citizen Journel, forced the
Grovernor to sign the arrest of twelve members, and eventually
to dissolve the Assembly ; and it was only after grievous
outrages had been committed that order was restored.

The Assembly was then reformed, and the members limited
to twenty-one, instead of fifty-one as formerly.

From 1794 the French squadron had been incessantly engaged
with English ships of war in the Indian seas, nearly always with
success to the former. This may be attributed to the shelter
afforded by Port Louis to shipping, and the resources for the

366 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

equipment and victualling ships of war, which enabled Percy
Linois, Bergeret, Hamelin, Duperre, and other enterprising
French officers to inflict incalculable injury on the British.

In 1798 the taxes began to suffice for the interior expenses
of the Isle of France, as the Assembly established a Custom-house
to receive a tax on importation, from five to ten per cent, on
all merchandise brought to the colony by neutral ships : the tax
was reduced to two-thirds for French vessels.

On the 20th of July, 1800, the day of his anniversary, at the
moment he was going to church, the Grovernor was seized with
apoplexy, from which he died two days afterwards, having held
the reins of government through eight stormy years. He was
universally regretted, for he had won, by his sagacity and firm-
ness, the esteem and affection of the inhabitants, under the
most trying circumstances. Even the English squadron, then
on a cruise before the Island, while the colony paid the last
tribute of respect to its chief, proposed a suspension of arms ;
and the vessels, hoisting the national standard, thus honoured
the death of their brave adversary, with whom for six years
they had waged a murderous warfare. His funeral was cele-
brated with the greatest pomp, and his remains deposited in the
Champ de Mars. The Assembly decreed that a suitable monu-
ment should be raised, with the inscription ' Au Sauveur de la
Colonie.' It was not, however, until the administration of Sir
William G-omm that it was completed ; Lady Gromm, by means
of a fancy fair, having raised sufficient funds for its erection.

Greneral Magellan de Moliere was proclaimed Grovernor on
the death of M. de Malartic.

After the establishment of Consuls in France, M. de Cossigny,
the ex-deputy, was sent out to take charge of the powder
mills, and it was supposed that he had a secret mission to effect
the emancipation of the slaves ; but when the Governor refused
assent to the demands for his departure, the Assembly resigned
to a man, and in 1801 M. de Cossigny left voluntarily. In
the same year took place the resistance to the decree of the
Home Grovernment to purge France by sending away its most
violent characters to places in the Indian seas. A law was voted
by the new House of Assembly, punishing with death any
convict who should set foot on the Isle of France.

The year 1802 saw an end to the fears as to the abolition ol

Ch. XXIV.] GENERAL DECAEN. 367

slavery, as a law was passed by Buonaparte re-establishing the
trade in slaves. News of peace arrived, and with it also the ex-
pression of the First Consul's disposition to the sister isles, which
was so flattering, that the act which proclaimed him Consul for
life was received with the greatest transports of joy. In Septem-
ber 1803, hopes of peace were dissipated by the arrival of Greneral
Decaen, who took possession of the government, dissolved the
colonial assembly, abolished the whole existing system by a
proclamation of twelve lines, and promulgated the new consti-
tution formed for the colony by the Consuls, in virtue of which
all the executive legislation and judicial powers were com-
mitted to three high functionaries, styled the Captain-General,
Colonial Prefect, and Commissary of Justice.

General Decaen changed the name of the Port North- West to
that of Port Napoleon, and that on the South-East to Port Im-
perial. It was with difficulty he could get this change acceded
to by either soldiers or citizens, as the Emperor had expressly
forbidden any town been called after him. However, the
General persisted in using the new names, and actually got a
decree from the Court in France sanctioning them.

In 1809, when the injuries sustained from the French had ex-
ceeded all bounds ; when the East India Company complained,
on the one hand, of the loss of their ships, and the merchants, on
the other, could no longer be slighted ; when the British Navy,
everywhere else triumphant, could not succeed either by blockade
or by bringing their ships into action, the Indian Governor re-
solved on the conquest of the colony. Since the departure of the
Marquis of Wellesley from India, who had long before insisted
on this step in all his Despatches, it had been procrastinated,
which may be owing in a measm-e to General Decaen's using every
endeavour to conceal the real state of the defences. A detach-
ment of the 56th Eegiment, with a large body of Sepoys, was
sent, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Keating, early
in 1806, to take possession of Eodrigues ; and in September, a
successful descent was made on St. Paul's, at Bourbon. Go-
vernment stores were destroyed to the value of a million ster-
ling, and a large booty carried away.

The first attempt to land in the Isle of France was made at
Black Eiver and Jacotet. After a long and brave defence, in
spite of every obstacle, a landing was effected, the batteries

368 HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. [Ch. XXIV.

dashed upon, and in less than ten minutes taken possession of ;
the troops put to flight, and their officers and guns in the hands
of the assailants. It was then found imperative to take the
battery on the Souillac side of the Eiviere des Gralets, which
was almost impassable from the strong current caused by heavy
rains, and the precipitous and strongly guarded banks. It
was, however, crossed without loss, and the party, giving three
hearty cheers, charged with the bayonet, and carried the hills
and batteries in the most brilliant manner. After destroying
the gun carriages, spiking the guns, and removing the field
pieces on board the frigate, the English carried off a schooner,
and re-embarked, with the loss of only one man killed and seven
wounded. In the succeeding months attacks were made on
Belombre, and the post of the Cap de Savane, but with little
success.

Bom'bon also was abandoned, as the force there was not con-
sidered strong enough to retain possession of the island. In
June 1810, a force of 4,000 men was sent from Madras to Eo-
drigues, to be employed later against the Isle of France. Mean-
time they all attacked Grande Chaloupe and Ste.-Marie ; and on
the 9th of July, the Island surrendered, and M. E. T. Farquhar
was left, with a great portion of the troops, as temporary
Grovernor. In the next month, Captain Pym, of the ' Sirius '
frigate, succeeded in gaining the Isle de Passe, a coral islet in
which was a circular battery and barracks, distant about a league
from the mainland, defending the entrance to Grand Port. A
series of successes to the British arms followed ; but their progress
was suddenly checked by the loss of the two East Indiamen, the
' Wyndham' and ' Ceylon, ' on their passage to India from the
Cape, which were taken by the French squadron off Mayotta.

The tide of victory which had so lately set in, almost unbroken,
in favour of Britain was completely turned ; disaster followed
disaster, as if the expiring genius of Gallo-India power should
emit one flashing ray previous to its utter extinction. On the
20th of August began a murderous conflict off the Isle de Passe,
one of the most disastrous to the English they had ever expe-
rienced.

It only ended with the captm'e of the frigates 'Sirius,' 'Nereide,'
and ' Iphigenia,' and the loss of the ' Magicienne,' which was
set on fire to prevent its falling into the enemy's hands.

Ch. XXIV.] ATTACK ON THE ISLAND. 369

The Isle de Passe was retaken, and prisoners to the number
of 100 naval and military officers, and 2,600 soldiers and sea-
men, were taken into Grrand Port.

The French pledged themselves to forward their prisoners in
a month to the Cape, or to send them home on parole ; instead
of which, the officers were treated with the greatest hardship,
and even some ladies, taken on board the Indiamen, were
imprisoned. Flushed with success, Greneral Decaen, after the
battle of Grrand Port, considered the French naval force
sufficient to destroy the remainder of the British squadron,
stationed at Bourbon, and to render unavailing the immense
preparations at Eodrigues for the subjection of the Island.

Several other desperate sea-fights occurred, with great loss of
men, but little permanent advantage on either side. While
these various successes and reverses were going on by sea, the
colonists could not be blind to the fact, that the British were
meditating a most powerful attack on the Island. To aid the
apathy and cover with indifference the exhausted patience of
the more quietly-disposed inhabitants, the exactions of the
rulers, and the impoverished state to which the colony was
reduced, forcibly contributed. Public credit had fallen so low
that the Colonial Intendant could not raise money imder his
official guarantee, unless his clerks endorsed his bills.

Although the preparations at Eodrigues were well known,
they were treated with indifference ; and the signals which
announced, on the morning of the 26th of November, 1810, the
approach of twenty-four vessels met with few hostile prepara-
tions on the part of the inhabitants. But the number of sail
augmenting, the former warlike spirit of the people was roused,
and orders were sent to all the districts to hold themselves in
readiness. On the 28th seventy-six sail were in sight.

The great obstacle opposed to the attack on the Island was
the difficulty of landing, in consequence of the coral reefs which
sm-round every part of the coast. By the indefatigable exertions
of Commodore Eowley, assisted by several Madras engineers,
this hindrance was removed.

Every part of the leeward side of the Island had been
minutely examined and sounded, and it was found that a fleet
might anchor in the narrow passage formed by the small island

370 THE DEBARKATION. [Ch. XXIV.

called the Grunners' Quoin and the mainland, and that there
were openings for boats through the reefs.

The point of debarkation considered most favourable was
Grrande Bale, or Mapou, about seventeen miles from Port
Louis. The troops, to the number of 10,000, landed before night-
fall without opposition. The fleet was directed to maintain
the blockade of Port Louis, protect the convoy at the anchor-
age, and to keep up a communication with the army on shore.
By daybreak the troops were on their march, with the intention
of delaying no more till they arrived at Port Louis ; but at
noon Greneral Abercrombie was forced to halt his men at Powder
Mills, about seven miles from the Port, for they were exhausted
from want of water. Here a small picquet was cut off in the
woods by a party sent out by Greneral Decaen to reconnoitre.
Lieutenant-Colonel McLeod seized upon the batteries of Tom-
beau and Tortue, and thus kept open communication with
the fleet. The French endeavoured to destroy the bridge at
Riviere Seche, but were prevented in time, so that the soldiers
were enabled to pass, though they had great trouble in dragging
the guns through the rocky bed of the river.

The enemy's line supported itself on the east of Peter Both
Mountain, extending nearly parallel to the wood, at a distance
of nearly 200 paces from it. The French force there consisted
of 3,500 men, with several field-pieces, under Greneral Vander-
massen. The chief force of Greneral Decaen remained within
the lines. Several sharp skirmishes took place before the head
of the column, under Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, of the 33rd,
had emerged from the wood, and formed with as much regularity
as the broken nature of the ground would permit. Exposed to
a storm of grape, the grenadiers were next formed, and, being
supported by all the flank companies of the reserve, they rushed
to the charge with great spirit.

The French waited till they were within fifty paces, when
they broke and precipitately retired, leaving the field-pieces in
possession of the English.

This advantage, however, was purchased with the life of
Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, and Major O'Keefe, of the 12th,
both excellent officers. A corps now ascended the mount, and
pulled down the French standard, hoisting the English one,
with hearty cheers. In the course of the forenoon, a position,

Ch. XXI v.] CAPITULA TION, 37 1

in front of the enemy's lines, but beyond cannon-range, was
occupied by the British.

The heat of the weather and fatigue of the men prevented
further action till the morrow.

The French were distm:bed by a false alarm of an attack,
during which the irresolution of the National Gruard, taken in
conjunction with the appearance of a reinforcement of troops,
which disembarked in safety at Petite Eiviere, induced Greneral
Decaen to propose terms of capitulation. He sent a flag of
truce to the outposts, which did not prevent the progress of
arrangements for a general assault. Many of the articles
appearing inadmissible to both naval and military commanders,
Greneral Abercrombie gave orders for a general attack on the
following morning. Upon this, Greneral Decaen offered to
revise his propositions ; and, finally, he was obliged to accede to
the terms of the British — nothing less than the complete sur-
render of the Island, which was ratified on the 3rd of December.

On the same day, at six o'clock, the grenadiers marched into
the lines, and occupied the principal batteries of Port Louis ;
while the fleet took possession of the forts and roads ; and the
French squadron was subsequently given up to Admiral Bertie,
by order of Greneral Decaen. The inhabitants awaited with the
deepest inquietude the arrival of the British troops in the town,
anticipating scenes of pillage and disorder ; and it is not easy
to express their surprise, when they beheld 20,000 men, flushed
with victory, enter without molesting a single individual.

A few instances occurred of foraging parties unscrupulously
taking possession of cattle, but orders were at once given for
compensation to be made to the sufferers.

The next day the shops were all open, displaying their finest
wares ; hotels and canteens were crowded ; the most perfect
harmony prevailed amongst the sailors, soldiers, and inhabitants
— no one would have supposed it was a city only the day pre-
viously in a state of siege.

A few days after. Port Louis resembled a vast bazaar, where
Indian and European met for trade, the only difficulty being
ignorance of each other's language. Three Company's vessels
were loaded at once for London with coffee, sugar, pepper, and
other merchandise that had been lying for years in store.
Ships in the harbour, unable before to land their goods, were

372- GENERAL REJOICING. [Ch. XXIV.

now able to do so, and to dispose of them at a fair price. The
amount of money in circulation the first month after the
capture was incalculable. The Treasury was turned into a
bank, where everyone could get accommodation to send to any
part of the world. Credits were opened with Europe, India,
and China ; and it may well be imagined that the impulse
given to commerce, after the circumscribed state it had been in
for some time, induced the people to look with complacency on
their conquerors. Their flag was changed, but so little else for
a long time, that the change of masters was scarcely felt.

On the 5th of December, Mr. E. Townsend Farquhar, having
taken over the government, issued his first proclamation,
informing the inhabitants that the civil and judiciary adminis-
tration would be carried on as before.

In this proclamation the old names. Isle Maurice, Port Louis,
and Grrand Port, were substituted for Isle de France, Port
Napoleon, and Port Imperial, and they have ever since retained
them.

The office of Intendant was abolished, and the Grovernor
united in his own person the executive and legislative powers.
The principal part of the officials were allowed at their option
to remain in office ; a permission of which most availed them-
selves. The utmost liberty was given to all enterprises. Those
who received pensions under the French Grovernment were
invited to produce their titles, and, after examination, were
continued on the list.

On the 20th of December another proclamation was issued,
calling upon all the inhabitants to take the oath of allegiance
to the King, which at first caused great alarm ; but the mild
measm-es and conciliatory tone adopted by the Governor soon
laid aside the mistrust and prejudice between the English and
French ; and it was not long before matrimonial alliances were
formed between the colonists and the new comers. After four
months of administration, Mr. Farquhar was ordered to hand
over the government of the Isle of France to Major-Greneral
Henry Warde, and to assume that of Bourbon.

On the 8th of April, 1811, Greneral Warde, in notifying his
appointment, stated his being named by the King Grovernor ot
Mauritius ; and from that period the name of the Isle of France
has ceased to exist in all official records. Few changes took

Ch. XXIV.] GOVERNOR FARQUHAR. 373

place ; but the Governor insisted on everyone taking the oath
of allegiance, and threatened all who did not comply before the
18th of April with forced departure from the colony.

He re-established the Colonial College, which had been taken
temporarily for a hospital during the attack on the Island.

Balls, soirees, amusements of all kinds followed, and at these
reunioiis English and French alike enjoyed the festive season ;
and the anniversary of the King's birthday, the 4th of June,
was numerously attended by both nations.

On July 11th, Mr. Farquhar received new commands to re-
sume the reins of government ; and a few days after his return
he announced free trade with the Cape, which had been pro-
hibited in May preceding.

Several aliens having refused to take the oath of allegiance,
new orders were issued to do so or leave the colony. Strict
measures were taken to preserve the vaccine virus, as vaccina-
tion had recently saved the Island from the disastrous effects of
the small-pox which had broken out.

In 1812, the first races were run in Mauritius, under the
direction of Col. Draper, who was a member of the Jockey Club.

The month of January, 1813, is remarkable for the publica-
tion of the Act abolishing the slave trade, and the suppression,
of the premium given to the proprietors of slaves killed when
Maroons, and an increase granted for every Maroon caught alive.

Hydrophobia made its appearance this year, and its first
victim was the son of an influential proprietor, M. Gronderville.

In April, Mr. Farquhar named in Port Louis Commissaries
with police attributes ; but few persons were willing to accept
the office. In July a Colonial Bank was established, but soon
after suppressed.

In 1813, Lord Moira, Grovernor-Greneral of India, during a
sojourn in the Island, laid the first stone of the present Catholic
Church, clad in his masonic robes, and attended by all the
masons of all the lodges.*

In 1814, when Louis XVIII. remounted the throne of France,
Mauritius was definitely ceded to Grreat Britain, and Bourbon,
under the same treaty, was restored to France.

' This is a curious fact, when we remember a late Catholic Bishop refusing to
admit persons who were masons to receive the Sacrament in that very church, and
even excommunicated two gentlemen who would not consent to quit their lodges.

Dd

374 PLOTS AND TROUBLES. [Ch. XXIV.

A proclamation was issued about this time to close Port Louis
harbour to the ships of all foreign nations.

On the sudden arrival of Napoleon in Paris, plots were laid
to gain possession of the Island for the Emperor.

An insurrection, headed by M. Perrat, was discovered at
Grrand Port, and matters threatened to assume a serious aspect ;
but the prompt measures of the Grovernor succeeded in quieting
the conspirators, and the disorders ceased on the defeat of
Bonaparte.

The year 1816 is memorable for the diplomatic and commercial
relations entered into between the Mauritian Grovernment and
Radama, King of the Hovas, who, from a petty chief in the
north of Madagascar, had gradually extended his authority over
the greater part of the island. Two sons of Radama were sent
for their education to England. The King himself engaged to
suppress the slave trade on payment of a subsidy ; he offered
advantages to mechanics and others who would reside in his
dominions. Civilisation was advancing with rapid strides when
death cut short his career.

In September a fire broke out which destroyed a great part
of Port Louis, causing distress to such an extent that the
Grovernor at once issued a Provisional Act, suspending all civil
and judiciary proceedings.

Food and clothing were supplied, and money advanced from
the Treasury to aid the burnt-out proprietors. That education
might not be delayed, the Grovernment maintained at school the
children of those who had severely suffered by the fire. A vast
and commodious market was built, and stalls in it assigned to
those who had no place to display their goods.

Two brigades of firemen, with engines and all accessories,
were at this time established.

In December the Governor laid the first stone of the Quays
that now surround the harbour.

Complaints having been made at home, Mr. Farquhar obtained
leave of absence ; and taking with him all the principal archives
of the colony to afford information, and accompanied by Baron
d'Unienville, amidst the profound regret of all classes, he
embarked for England November 19, 1817, leaving the reins of
government in the hands of the senior military officer, Major-
General Hall.

Ch. XXIV.] A TYRANNICAL GOVERNOR. 375

His first official act of note was to annul the disposition ot
(rovernor Farquhar in favour of the Society of Arts ; in conse-
quence of which its fate was sealed, and for years it was im-
heard of.

The year 1818 is memorable for a terrific hurricane, followed
by an epidemic sore-throat, that carried off victims from all
classes of society J

At the beginning of this year. Commander Purvis, of the
' Magicienne,' seized the Hamburgh, American, and French
vessels then in port, under the pretext of infringement of the
navigation laws.

The case was, however, dismissed by the Commissary Justice,
Mr. Smith, greatly to the displeasure of the Grovernor, who
soon after turned out Mr. Smith from his post, and took that
office on himself.

He then suspended Col. Draper, Collector of Customs, on
account, of the part he had taken in trying to prove the inno-
cence of the proprietors of the above-mentioned vessels, of
contravening the laws by landing goods from foreign vessels.

The year was marked by continual troubles from the tyranny
of the Grovernor ; but a new spirit infused itself into all classes
when orders came from home for the General to leave ; and on
the 10th of December, Lieut.-Col. John Dalrymple was received
with every manifestation of joy as temporary Grovernor.^

' An address was presented by the principal inhabitants to the Major-General,
suggesting measures for repairing the great damages done by the hurricane, and
remedying some of its worst effects, and offering to second the Government in any
scheme that should be proposed for alleviating the distress. But he was too busy
to heed their supplications, being engaged in sending out his emissaries after
new slaves reported to him as having been landed, and spies to arrest those he
suspected of evading the laws, then being put in force, as to slaves and slave-
holders.

When he replied, instead of sympathising with the people in their calamity, he
wrote, ' Instead of writing to him with a pathetic story about the misfortunes of the
country, it would be far better to put an end to the infamous commerce in slaves.'

' "What do you complain of?' he writes of hurricanes, why you are better off than
the Antilles, for they get one every year. You fear famine? open subscriptions,
and get provisions for the unfortunate ; or rather open the shops of the rice
monopolisers, and rice won't be wanting !' and for the future, he advised them to
keep their advice to themselves, and not trouble him with it.

2 General Hall not only undid, as far as lay in his power, the beneficent acts of
Sir R. Farquhar, but in all his despatches home he vilified the colonists and tried
to influence the Government against them, but fortunately without success.

376 THE SLA VE TRADE. [Ch. XXIV.

In the year 1819, the Island was visited by three violent
hurricanes. In February, Major-General Ealph Darling was
proclaimed Grovernor.

In November, the cholera suddenly broke out in Port Louis,
and spread with terrible rapidity to the country districts. It
continued its ravages till April in the following year, and
carried off nearly 12,000 persons.

On the 6th of July, 1820, Grovernor Farquhar, arriving with the
title of Baronet, resumed the administration, and expressed his
intention of carrying on all his former measures for the welfare
of the colony — a task not easy of accomplishment, from the
constant dissensions between the late Grovernors, the Council,
and the people, and the financial difficulties he found resulting
from the recent scourges that had so severely afflicted the colony.

In January 1821, the Common Council was dissolved ; Port
Louis was re-opened to foreig-n trading vessels under certain
restrictions ; the Dyot Canal was finished, and the present
Bathurst Canal was begun ; and in June the new Theatre was
opened.

After having rendered many important services to the colony.
Sir E. T. Farquhar retired, and was succeeded, in May 1823, by
Sir Gralbraith Lowry Cole.

A local historian speaks of his departure as a misfortune
severely felt. During his government the resources of the co-
lony were gTeatly developed, and commerce revived ; and the
manner in which he endeavoured to heal the wound inflicted by
the separation of the colony from France is worthy of all "com-
mendation.

In 1823, a resolution was passed in Parliament for the intro-
duction of a progressive system of amelioration in the state and
condition of the slaves in the British Colonies, and this with the
avowed intention of abolishing later altogether the slave trade
— -that social anomaly in the dependencies of a professedly free
country.

From the time the first idea of abolishing this traffic was
mooted, there appears to have been a rebellious feeling ever
surging up amongst the colonists.

As a preliminary step, a fixed and inflexible rule was esta-
blished, that the immediate representative of His Majesty, as well
as chief magistrates and other officers, administrative and judi-

Ch. XXIV.] SUGAR. 377

cial, should not directly nor indirectly be possessed of slaves, or
land cultivated by slave labour, or of mortgages on such estates.
The directions to this effect bear date 1824.

Then was shown how sturdy a resistance was to be expected
in those countries where slavery had been encouraged for cen-
turies ; as all views tending to emancipation were looked on as
chimerical and ruinous.

An Act of the highest import to the colony was passed, in
June 1825, by the Imperial Parliament, permitting the impor-
tation of the products of the colony into the British markets ;
and this admission caused everyone to turn his attention to the
culture of sugar, to the neglect of all others.^ Letters patent
were sent out to ordain a Council, to consult with the Grovernor
and assist him in the administration of the government ; and
from this period the laws were no longer in the shape of pro-
clamations, but ordinances of the Grovernor in Council.

In 1826, the Bathurst Canal was completed, thus giving the
town a plentiful supply of water.

In 1827, a Chamber of Commerce was established, the presi-
dent of which was to be a Grovernment officer. In February
1828, the streets were re-named, and houses numbered; and
petitions sent to Government, begging to have the town
lighted, in consequence of the night robberies becoming so
frequent.

In June, Sir Lowry Cole was succeeded by Sir Charles Col-
ville, K.C.B.

In November, the Chamber of Commerce was reformed, and
was to consist of twelve members ; three of the dignitaries to
be elected by a general meeting of the commercial body.

In 1829, an Order in Council was promulgated, abolishing all

• This, which was in reality a valuable privilege if used with prudence, became
from its abuse a source of endless trouble to the colony.

Nearly the whole colony embarked in the most hazardous speculations ; landed
estates acquired double and triple value; the Creole imagination of the inhabi-
tants became heated to such a degree, that there was no price to which landed
property could limit itself: the wildest extravagance and luxury were the conse-
quence. England and India poured forth their millions, which were expended on
this rock.

At length these moments of prosperity reached their term : a contraction was
perceptible, and the illusion vanished — failures, bankruptcies, foreclosures,
unusual distress, the entire destruction of credit, and all the long list of evils that
ever follow in the train of mercantile speculations conducted on false principles.

378 ENGLISH AND FRENCH. [Ch. XXIV.

the distinctions existing between the whites and free citizens of
colour, and enjoining that the births and deaths of both shoukl
henceforth be registered in the same books.

An attempt was made to introduce Chinese and Indian
labourers, but with so little success that they were sent back to
their own countries.

Numerous dissensions arose, after the death of King Radama,
between the governments of Madagascar, Bourbon, and Mau-
ritius, but they were soon amicably arranged.

In the year 1830, the colonists resolved, after long delibera-
tion, to despatch an agent to lay their claims before the Home
Grovernment for more liberal concessions ; and Mr. Adrien
d'Epinay was chosen, and left for England on the 10th of October.
He returned the following year, and reported that he had been
favoiirably received by Lord Goderich, the Secretary of State.

The creation of a legislative council, half the members to be
chosen from the principal merchants and proprietors, and
liberty of the press, which till then had been under the censor-
ship of the Secretary of State, were among the first results of
his mission.

About this time a gradual estrangement was taking place
between the English and French ; and so far from time enfee-
bling this alienation, it assumed day by day a new energy, and
all the efforts of Sir Charles and Lady Colville to bring about a
better feeling amongst all parties were unavailing.

In 1832, new laws were enacted for regulating the duties of
masters and servants.

At this time an attempt was made to bring about the
emancipation of the slaves, which roused the fears of the people
to such a point that the whole Island was in commotion. To
suppress an expected movement amongst the slaves a Volunteer
Corps was formed.

In June, Mr. Jeremie was sent out as Procurem* and Advo-
cate-Gfeneral, to arrange for the emancipation, but the people
refused to allow him even to take his seat in the council.^ The

' An eye-witness thus describes the state of the town, the morning after Mr.
Jeremie's arrival : — ' Every third person was armed in the streets ; Port Louis
rather resembled a citadel than a commercial town. The Bazaar was cleared of
produce, the shops closed, the cart and boat establishments refused to work.' The
committee of the malcontents had drawn up a resolution that no business should

Ch. XXIV.] VALUATION OF SLAVES, 379

most violent scenes ensued ; and the disturbances only ceased
when the Governor consented to send Mr. Jeremie out of the
Island,

On the 31st of January, 1833, Sir William Nicolay became
Grovernor in the place of Sir C. Colville, who had requested per-
mission to retire to England.

On the 4th of February Sir William Nicolay published an
order in council, directing the dissolution of the Volunteer Corps.
Colonel Draper, and Mr. Virieux, President of the Supreme
Com't, were suspended for the part they had taken in the pro-
ceedings against Mr. Jeremie. In April, that General retm'ned,
with the 9th Eegiment, and entered the same day on his func-
tions of Procm'em' and Advocate-General.

In May, a proclamation was issued for all persons to give
up their arms. On June the 19th, notice was given that all
situations, including those of the learned professions, would
henceforth be reserved for British subjects, or persons becoming
so by treaty ; and a few days after, by another notice, a know-
ledge of English was made a sine qua non for employment in
the service.

The rest of the year was passed in plots against the Govern-
ment, and in consequent arrests.

The year 1834 opened with the publication of an Act memo-
rable to all ages — the abolition of slavery in all the KingV
dominions.

But the laws respective thereto were to remain in force till
February 1st, 1835 ; and from that date, all persons aged six
years, duly registered, would become apprentice labourers, and
continue so till February 1st, 1839, for those non-attached.

The year 1835 began by the arrival of Indian labom'ers from
Calcutta for the plantations.

The first stone of Fort Adelaide, on the Little Mountain, was
laid by the Governor.

In February the commission of indemnity began the valuation
of slaves, and in December, the mode of division was made

be done, no taxes paid, that the courts should be closed, and no attention paid to
police orders. This was circulated everywhere, and acted on to the letter. After
Mr. Jeremie was sworn in as a Privy Councillor, the press unanimously refused to
print it.

38o THE EX-SLA VES, [Ch. XXIV.

known. Mauritius received 2,112,632^. for 68,613 slaves, about
an average of 69^. 14s. 3cZ. each.

In 1836, the Port of Mahebourg was opened for trading
vessels, and a weekly post was established between it and Port
Louis.

On the 29th of August, Mr. Jeremie was dismissed from his
post, and very soon after left the colony.

On the 1st of January, 1837, the Savings' Bank was es-
tablished ; and on the 9th was laid the first stone of the Grrand
Kiver Suspension Bridge. In 1838, Indian immigration was
again suspended ; and the Commercial Bank opened. In 1839,
when the apprentices were freed, a general disorganisation took
place, the ex-slaves refusing to work, and the streets of the town
were crowded with them.

On the 20th of February, 1840, Sir W. Nicolay took his
departure, and Col. Power succeeded for the short space of five
months.

During this time a committee was formed and blended with
its predecessor, under the name of the ' Free Labour Associa-
tion,' for facilitating the introduction of labom'ers : it was
presided over by Capt. Dick, Colonial Secretary. On the 16th
of July, Sir Lionel Smith became Grovernor ; and the principal
events of importance dming his government were — M. H.
Adams received letters of naturalisation, the first who had
enjoyed that privilege in Mauritius ; and the Home Grovernment
refused to allow immigration from the coast of Africa.

In July 1841, it was announced that the English text of
all laws published in the colony would be the only legal version.

On the 2nd of January, 1842, Sir Lionel Smith died suddenly
at Reduit, and in three days was followed by Lady Smith.
Until the arrival of the new Grovernor, the senior commanding
officer, Lieut.-Col. Stavely, was appointed as Acting Grovernor.

Little of interest took place at this time, if we except the
severe financial embarrassment in May and June. On the 21st
of November, 1842, Sir William Gromm arrived ; and it required
stringent measures on the part of Grovernment to allay the
ferment caused by the difficulties on all sides from the immense
amount of small paper notes the banks had been putting in
circulation. The premium on gold at this time had risen to
20 per cent., and on silver to 12 per cent.

Ch. XXIV.] TAMATAVE BOMBARDED. 381

Sir William took considerable interest in the cause of im-
migration, and obtained leave to introduce 6,000 labourers
annually, also a large number of Indian women, which had
never been permitted previously.

In 1844, he m-ged upon the inhabitants to plant provisions
for their men, to meet the frequent emergencies when the price
of imported goods was so high.

In May an auto-da-fe was made of the notes of the Committee
of Finance, but so carelessly that large bundles were rescued
from the flames to pass again into circulation. In 1845, a
despatch was published authorising the Grovernment to send
to England yearly the pupil who had most distinguished
himself.

A contagious epidemic broke out amongst the cattle, and
raged for months, till it was feared that the whole bovine race
would disappear. Upwards of 12,000 cattle and 6,000 pigs,
besides goats, were swept away.

At this time the commercial body signed a convention to
accept the rupee at the uniform rate of two shillings, the former
value being only one and tenpence.

Affairs in Madagascar were in a very unsettled state. The
widow of Radama, Ranavalona Manjaka, followed just the
opposite course of policy to that of the late king. So far from
encouraging settlers, she expelled the missionaries, and prohib-
ited Christianity. Extortions to the greatest extent were prac-
tised on foreigners, and a peremptory order was at last issued
for all strangers to depart.

Time was refused them even to arrange their affairs, and
matters were carried so far that the Grovernment was obliged to
interfere. Captain Roily, of the ' Conway,' was sent down to
protect the British subjects, and he was joined by a French
man-of-war, under command of Commodore Remain Desfosses.
Persuasion and entreaty being alike in vain to obtain time for
the settlers, orders were given to bombard Tamatave ; but it
was so well defended, that the attacking force was quite un-
equal to its conquest, and had to retire, leaving behind even
its dead.

Ranavalona then ordered all trade to cease, which caused
great distress in Mauritius, as Madagascar was the principal
source whence cattle for the market and agricultural purposes

382 CENSUS. [Ch. XXIV

were brought — distress doubly felt on account of the late
murrain.

Trade also suffered, as cotton goods, cutlery, and iron ware
all found a good market there.

Ample details of the whole affair were sent to England, and
Sir W. Gomm even recommended that a sufficient armament
should be sent out to subdue the island.

Possibly it might have been attended to but for the v^evvs
and claims of the French, and political events in Europe soon
absorbed the project.

In 1844, the new system of manipulating sugar by the
vacuum-pan was introduced and effectually established on the
Labourdonnais and Phoenix Estates. By the adoption of this
valuable discovery the quality of the sugar was so much raised
that Mauritius could then compete with any country in the
world. About the same time another improvement called the
' Wetzell,' after its inventor, was introduced by M. Huguin.

In 1846 a peculiar blight attacked the sugar-canes, destroying
thousands of acres of the white cane.

This calamity was in one respect useful, as it caused a more
careful cultivation of the plant, and greater attention in
choosing the canes, as it was proved that not a red cane was
touched.

In this year a census was taken of the people, with the
following result : —

Males. Females.

General Population . . 30,148 25,331

Ex-Apprentices „ . . 28,142 21,223

Indian . „ . . 48,935 7,310

107,225 53,864

The first stone of St. Thomas' Church, at Plaines Wilhems,
was laid by Lady Gromm in 1845, and opened for divine service
on October 1846 ; and Sir William laid the first stone of St.
John's, at Moka, the same year ; and both contributed largely
to these edifices.

The patent slip of Messrs. Scott and Murray was begun this
year.

The great crisis which shook the whole commercial world at
this time terribly affected Mauritius.

All the principal mercantile houses stopped pajnuent. A

Ch. XXIV.] CURRENCY. 383

petition \vas sent to the Queen setting forth their grievances ;
the principal result of which has been ever since felt in the
reduction of the salaries of almost all the subordinate officers of
Grovernment, the abolition of minor situations, and a general
reduction of taxes. The immigration stamp-tax on Indian
engagements was abolished ; and many important items were
either abandoned or greatly reduced to such an extent, that
the revenue suddenly fell to so low a figure that the Secretary
of State gave orders for the re-establishing of the stamp-tax at
once.

Sir William took deep interest in the cause of education. A
number of Grovernment schools were established and sup-
ported at its expense. An ordinance was also passed, setting-
aside a Sinn to be paid annually into the Treasury for Chm'ch
building purposes.

The representative committee at last perceived a favourable
prospect, from the energies aroused by their correspondence with
England, in favour of immigration, steam communication, and
elective bodies.

The present currency of Grovernment notes was prepared
during the last months of Sir William's administration.

The overland mail of February 1849 announced that Sir
William was appointed Commander-in-chief of the Indian Army ;
and his Excellency embarked for Calcutta, leaving the govern-
ment in the hands of Lieutenant-Colonel Blanchard, who was
only a month in office, and was followed by Lieutenant-Colonel
H. Lewis Sweeting, who in tm'n gave place to the new G-overnor,
Sir Greorge Anderson, who arrived on the 8th of June.

He at once set to work energetically, and issued a proclama-
tion to all the inhabitants to assist him in the administration
of government. A draft of ordinance was laid before the Council
by the Grovernor, for allowing three years' engagements of
labourers, and was passed at once.

On the 1st of September our present currency of notes was
issued ; an arrangement having been concluded with the Com-
mercial Bank, by which the pecuniary affairs of government
were to be carried on from that date.

At the end of this year an ordinance was passed to constitute a
municipal corporation ; and the preliminaries were carried on so
rapidly, that on the 4th of March, 1850, the Grovernor notified

384 SUPREME COURT. [Ch. XXIV.

that he had selected, as the first Mayor of Port Louis, Louis
Lechelle, Esquire, and Felix Koenig, Esquire, as his Deputy.

This year was ushered in by great changes in the Courts of
Justice. The Supreme Coui"t was to consist of one chief Judge
and two or more puisne Judges, which court was invested with
the powers of the Queen's Bench, and made a court of equity.
District Courts were also established, trial by jmy introduced,
and many other judicial ordinances were passed to be put in force
in 1852. This year the 'turbine,' the greatest improvement in
sugar making since the steam-engine, was brought into use in
the colony.

A petition was presented to the Grovernor, in June, for the
erection of lighthouses on the coast, to avoid the repeated
disasters and shipwrecks from the shoals and currents.

Sir G-eorge was occupying himself with many matters of
public utility when he received news of his appointment to the
Grovernment of Ceylon, and he left Mamitius, to the infinite
regret of all parties.

Major-Greneral Sutherland was appointed Acting Grovernor
October 19, but his brief administration offers nothing of in-
terest.

In January, 1851, Mr. James Macauley Higginson arrived
in the colony from Ceylon, where he met Sir Gr. Anderson, and
doubtless their conferences aided him greatly in carrying
out the important measures planned by Sir Greorge before his
departure.

A project was set on foot at this time to introduce the culture
of the silkworm, and it was proved that silk of a very superior
quality could be produced here ; but the apathy of the working-
classes rendered all such attempts futile. The first question to
which the Grovernor directed his attention was to procure free
labourers from the coast of Madagascar, to make good the
deficiency of the labour market. The next measures were those
of steam communication, and the extension of the limits pre-
viously fixed for the annual introduction of labourers from
India.

By a new enactment, a provision of 500Z. was allowed to the
Mayor, whose services were previously gratuitous.

By this time the financial difficulties, so serious during the
latter part of Sir W. Gromm's government, began to improve

Ch. XXIV.] GAS INTRODUCED. 385

so much from reaction and increasing prosperity, tliat there
was now a considerable surplus in the hands of Grovernment.
The Grovernor advised using part of this for opening up new
roads into the interior ; but to accomplish this he proposed
plans that did not meet with general approbation, and they
thus proved in a great degree abortive.

At this time Mr. Wilson, manager of the Cape gas works,
visited the colony, and obtained a concession of land for esta-
blishing a gasometer for lighting the to^vvn with gas, in place
of the dull oil lamps that alone glimmered in the extensive
and only city of Mamritius.

Propositions were made for a regular monthly communica-
tion with England by steamer, and the Council voted 12,000/. a
year as a subvention, for a period not exceeding five years ;
Messrs. Blythe Bros, having proposed to establish the line.

The year 1852 began with the new judicial changes, by which
local courts were established, and the present organization of the
Supreme Courts, nearly as planned by Sir Gr. Anderson, were
put into operation.

The trade with Madagascar was temporarily renewed, and
petitions were presented to the Grovernor to take measures to
try and adjust the difference that had existed since the rupture
at Tamatave.

Arrangements having been made with the G.S.S. Company,
the first fine steamer, the ' Queen of the South,' arrived after
a passage of forty-three days.

In August the first annual report of the Meteorological
Society was published.

The year 1853 began by an appeal of Mr. Tropier to the
inhabitants for funds to erect a monument to M. de Labour-
donnais. The Grovernor headed the list, and a subscription was
quickly raised, but it was not till some years later that it was
erected. The prospects of the colony brightened more and
more, and the mail steamers succeeded each other regularly.

The question of lighthouses progressed to a solution, and
there was every appearance of a renewal of the Madagascar
trade, the Grovernment offering to advance the required indem-
nity.

The Governor occupied himself with innumerable matters for
the progress of the colony ; but his health and sight began to

386 THE FREEMASONS. [Ch. XXIV.

fail, and as a sea voyage was recommended, he went by the
mail steamer to Seychelles, leaving Greneral Sutherland to
replace him in his absence. On the 11th of September, on the
return of His Excellency, commissioners were sent to Mada-
gascar, and all differences were amicably adjusted, the ports re-
opened, and trade in cattle, rice, mats, cloths, &c. was renewed.

In April 1854, the Grovernor's health still declining, he left
for England, and Greneral Sutherland was again left in charge.

At this time broke out serious dissensions between the Roman
Catholic clergy and the Freemasons, the former refusing to
administer the sacrament to any of ^the order. During the ad-
ministration of Greneral Sutherland, the island was visited by
sorrow and desolation. The cholera broke out in the prisons
of Port Louis, and once outside the walls it spread with such
alarming rapidity, that the inhabitants of the city fled on all
sides.

During the progress of this terrible plague, almost every
family had to bewail the loss of some member of it, for it spared
neither rank, nor age, nor sex.

Amongst the most universally regretted were Dr. Eogers
and the Eev. Mr. Banks, who fell victims to their untiring
devotion, wherever their services could avail. 7,650 persons
were carried off.

Greneral Hay succeeded in January 1855, and held the reins
for the remaining six months of the leave of absence of the
Grovernor.

Sir Herbert de Lisle, a highly talented man, Grovernor of the
sister island, spent a short time in Mauritius in May, and on
his retm-n carried with him the pleasantest souvenirs of his
visit.

In July a second patent slip was erected by Mr. Prout, and
it was at once in full activity.

On the first day of Mr. Higginson's return, it was notified by
letters patent under the great seal, dated November 1854, that
Mam'itius and its dependencies were erected into an episcopal
see and diocese, and that the Eight Eeverend Vincent William
Eyan, D.D., who arrived on the 18th of June, was appointed the
first Bishop thereof.

During the absence of the Grovernor in England, he had
actively employed himself in the interests of the colony, both

Ch. XXIV.] IMMIGRANTS. 387

in respect to immigration and steam communication, and with
favourable results.

Small-pox visited the island severely this year, which was
introduced in consequence of imperfect or too brief quarantine.

In November a large meeting took place to petition the
Queen to allow the French language to be used in the courts,
and all judicial and administrative Acts ; and in December a
counter petition was got up, asking for the optional use ot
both the French and English languages. At this time the
new lighthouse on Flat Island was at last completed, which
added greatly to the safety of foreign vessels entering the
harbour.

The year 1856 opened with the most brilliant prospects, as
sugars increased in prices past expectation ; but during this year
the borer made its appearance in the canes, and has since
done much mischief in the plantations.

By despatches in February, the Secretary of State approved
of two pupils being sent home by the colony from the Royal
College, and being educated there at Grovernment expense ;
also authority was received for the local Grovernment to enteV
into a contract with Messrs. Menon and Co. for a steam postal
communication between Mauritius and Aden.

There being no proper quarantine station, in March the
colony was again invaded by cholera, some vessels arriving with
the disease on board.

The immigrants were landed at Gabriel Island, and under-
went the severest hardships and sufferings from want of shelter
and provisions ; and as there was constant communication
between Grabriel and Flat Islands, the cholera was soon brought
to Port Louis. The first death in hospital occurred on the 6th of
March, and the dire plague did not cease till the 7th of June,
when its victims numbered 3,532. Soon after the Grovernment
voted 55,000^. for quarantine accommodation at Flat Island
and Cannonier's Point.

In 1856 Dr. Ulcocq, being in England, brought to the serious
consideration of the Secretary of State the advisability of a
railroad in the colony. On the 27th of December the steamer
' Governor Higginson ' left Port Louis on her first voyage to
Aden ; and on the 27th of January, 1857, it arrived with the

388 A PROSPEROUS YEAR, [Ch. XXIV.

mails, and thus proved that the route by Aden was the most
prompt and advantageous for the colony.

This year may be considered one of the most prosperous ever
experienced in Mauritius.

In the month of May the Council voted 1,000^. to be supplied
to the establishment of a Sailors' Home, subject to a like sum
being raised by voluntary contributions.

On the 26th of June the most favourable news was received
from Europe, announcing a large rise in the staple product of
the colony, just as they were about to harvest the largest crop
ever grown, and the removal of the interdiction to immigration
from India. In this month was laid the first stone of the
Protestant church at Pamplemousses by Lady Higginson. The
happy news from England was, however, speedily followed by
tidings of the revolt in India, which spread momentary dismay,
and caused the principal provision of the labourer, rice, to
rise from 14s. to 21s. in forty-eight hours, everyone rushing
to procure a supply, as if the island was menaced by a
famine.

' The new Mauritius DryDock was publicly opened on July 13th,
in presence of the Grovernor and the most influential members
of colonial society.

About this time it was recommended by the chief medical
officer that coolies should only be brought from Madras and
Bombay, as they would be more likely to be healthy than those
brought from Calcutta. On the 10th of September his Excellency,
now Sir James Higginson, K.C.B., left the colony, accompanied
by his family.

Sir James was replaced for the few days intervening between
that date and the 21st by Major-G-eneral Hay, when Sir
William Stevenson arrived, and received the government from
liis hands.

This gentleman, born of one of the best planter's families in
Jamaica, began his political career in that country by resigning
his office as puisne judge rather than involve the Grovernment
in disputes on his behalf, a sacrifice of position to principle
so well appreciated by the Crown, that later he was appointed
Superintendent of Honduras. His singular capacity for business,
and his unrivalled administrative abilities, were thought so

Ch. XXIV.] POSTAL SERVICE. 389

liighly of in Downing Street that they procured liim the
Government of Mauritius.

On presiding for the first time in the Legislative Council, he
traced out the programme of his projects ; and they embraced
public institutions, material and intellectual wants, finance,
agriculture and commerce, education, sanitary measures, immi-
gration and postal communication ; and the promises then held
forth were well carried out in the execution.

The two subjects to which His Excellency first turned his
attention were immigration and the postal service.

He succeeded in gaining what had been refused to his prede-
cessors— liberty to engage labourers in India for five years'
service on the estates, a most important measure for the
planters ; and he encouraged an abundant supply of labour to
develope the resources of the colony.

The next step was to change the irregular overland postal
service into a well-organised arrangement, guaranteed by con-
tract with the P. aiid 0. Company.

At the earnest solicitation of the inhabitants, he applied for
a skilful engineer to indicate the best lines for railways, and to
estimate their cost and revenue.

He thoroughly re-organised the police force, which was till
then a disjointed, incomplete, and undisciplined service. A
police court was established, and stipendiaiy magistrates for the
districts, a great boon for both planters and Indians.

The fullest enquiries were made into the system of education
at the Royal College ; and he upheld the new rector, who with
determined, though too hasty, hand had tried to rectify the
abuses caused by the negligence of his predecessors.

He founded the Orphan Asylum at Powder Mills, and with
Lady Stevenson gave it great encouragement.

A vast improvement was made in Grovernment schools, and
almost the last time he appeared in public he promised a prize
of 50^. from his private purse for the most successful examina-
tion at the training school for teachers.

His repeated advice was to put Port Louis in a condition to

repel the irruption of epidemics, and he went largely into the

question of sanitary reforms. Well w^ould it be now for

Mauritius had his counsels been carried out ; it might perhaps

Ee

390 KING RADAMA II. [Ch. XXIV.

have saved thousands from the hecatombs of victims slain by
the present fever scourge.

Grreat reforms took place in the Civil Service, and he devised
plans for the better division of district hospitals, from which
complaints were brought to his notice.

He personally visited them to see that the evils were rectified ;
and touched with the zealous labours of the sisters of charity
elsewhere, he aided in gaining their services for the sick in the
hospitals. He took a warm interest in scientific progress. The
Meteorological and Arts and Science Societies, botanical gar-
dens, &c., are deeply indebted to his lucid and practical ideas
on all subjects connected with them.

Under his auspices the Young Men's Association was formed,
and he delivered an address to them which displayed remark-
able talent, and was full of the sterling eloquence so peculiarly
his own.

Commerce and agriculture received every attention from
him, particularly the latter, in which he always evinced great
pleasure when attending to its details.

He upheld the Municipal Corporation, though attempts were
made to turn popular feeling against him by the most
unfounded accusations of carelessness of the public welfare ;
but, conscious in his own integrity, his calm attitude, and the
moderation, tolerance, and loyalty he displayed, disarmed all
adversaries, and conciliated all parties.

He strictly enforced the quarantine laws, the subject at that
time of endless controversy.

On the death of the Queen of Madagascar he sent a mission
to King Eadama II., congratulating him upon his acces-
sion to the throne, and upon the liberal policy he had decided
to pursue towards foreigners. The gentlemen of the mission
were received with every honour by the king, and it was hoped
a new era for Christianity and civilisation had begun in
Madagascar.

This able and esteemed Governor was attacked on January
4th, 1863, with dysentery, which soon assumed a serious
character, and on the 9th he breathed his last. The health of
His Excellency was failing for some time before his death. The
previous hot season, with an epidemic raging in the island, and
much anxiety, correspondence, and care thence arising, had

Ch. XXIV.] DEATH OF THE GOVERNOR. 39i

already greatly tried his strength, and his sensitive, nervous
system and kindly heart.

It is believed that, but for this excessive and wearying appli-
cation to duty, without adequate relaxation and repose, the
dysentery which caused his death would not, humanly speak-
ing, have proved fatal, but for the prolonged and insidious
operations of the above-mentioned debilitating agencies. His
remains were brought from Eeduit to Port Louis, and thence a
large concourse of the inhabitants, in spite of an incessant rain,
accompanied it to St. John's Church, Moka.

Addresses of the deepest sympathy were forwarded to Lady
Stevenson, who, only a few weeks previously, had received
the heartiest congratulations on the birth of a son.

When the news arrived in Downing Street, the Duke of
Newcastle wrote to Greneral Johnson, then acting Grovernor : —

' I have received with the deepest sorrow and regret your
despatch, marked " separate," of the 24th of January, reporting
the death of the late Grovernor of Mauritius.

' Looking to the services which Sir W. Stevenson had rendered,
and those which he was capable of rendering, had his life been
prolonged, there is no possible event by which the Colonial
service could have sustained a greater loss.

' He had evinced in the administration of his government
a pure public spirit, unbiassed for a moment by any personal
feelings or considerations, great administrative ability, untiring
energy, and a devotion to labour, unfortunately carried to an
excess, and leading at last to the sacrifice of his life. He was
one of the most able, zealous, and honourable men with whom
official life has brought me into contact.

' I have, &c.,

' (Signed) Newcastle.'

The affairs of Grovernment were left in such good working
order by the late Grovernor, that Major-Greneral Johnson, the
senior officer in command, had little difficulty in carrying out
his plans for general improvement and progress.

In April 1863 the project for a Credit Foncier was set on
foot, and M. de Manteuil was sent to Europe, by subscription
of the planters, to obtain the assistance required in the way of
capital.

392 DR. A YRES. [Ch. XXIV.

News was in May brought from Madagascar, threatening to
destroy the new alliance between the English and that country.
On the 12th instant King Eadama was strangled by the Hovas,
and at the same time all his ministers shared the same fate.

Immediately afterwards, Queen Eaboda, his wife, was placed
on the throne, with the title of Queen Rasoerina. Later intel-
ligence allayed the fears this tragic act aroused, as the queen
was said to have expressed her wish to continue the friendly
.relations between herself and foreign nations, and to carry out
the treaties lately entered into.

About this time a low sort of fever broke out, commonly
known as the Bombay fever, and carried off a great number of
Indians on the estates.

In this month died also Dr. Philip Bernard Ayres, after a
short illness. He arrived in Mauritius, January 1856, as Super-
intendent of Quarantine and the improvement of its laws :
the excellent accommodation for Indians, and the Lazarets at
Flat Island and Cannon ier's Point, are mainly due to his earnest
representations.

At the time of his death he was intent on writing a Flora of
Mauritius, and each moment he could snatch from professional
business was devoted to botany ; but death prevented the com-
pletion of this work.

Little of interest took place till November 26th, when Sir
Henry Barkly arrived with thepres^i^eof the experience gained
by having governed two important British Colonies in the West
Indies, and that of Victoria in Australia, which gave great
hopes of his competence to hold the reins of a G-overnment
composed of such diverse and discordant elements as those that
existed in the Mauritian population.

On the morning of his arrival, the new Grovernor took the
oath, and the same day the usual proclamation was issued,
calling upon the inhabitants and servants of the Crown to co-
operate with him and aid him in carrying out all projects for
the welfare and progress of the colony.

On the 2nd of December His Excellency held a levee, which
was numerously attended, and the Chambers of Commerce and
Agriculture presented him ' with addresses that were well
received, and frankly and favourably replied to.

Sir Henry lost no time in inspecting the line of railway, then

Ch. XXIV.] CREDIT COMPANIES, 393

nearly completed, and expressed his approbation of the works.
He visited some of the principal estates of the Island, and
studied for himself the pros and cons of that vexata qucestio,
differential duties, and others of vital importance to the planters.

It need scarcely be said with what hearty welcome the
Governor and his lady were everywhere received in his progress
through the island.

In January 1864 an Embassy was sent from the Court of
Antananarivo, Madagascar, consisting of two officers of the 14th
and 15th Honowes Eainiferuigia and Rainandrainandriana, and
a Protestant clergyman as interpreter, to the Com'ts of England
:,nd France.

At this time the offer of Messrs. Hanna, Donald, and Wilson
was accepted by the Municipal Corporation, to light the town
of Port Louis with gas.

On the 21st of May the northern line of railway was opened,
and a large party left town for Grand River, SE., where an
inaugural breakfast was given at Beauchamp Estate by the
Government.

Two Credit Foncier Companies were now in full operation,
which it was hoped would be of great assistance to the planters.
Three companies were formed, two in London and one in the
colony. They offered money for thirty years, to be repaid in
capital and interest at 10 per cent, premium. The introduc-
tion of this alleviation to industry, and encouragement to the
landed proprietor, was publicly celebrated, as not only those
who borrowed were benefited, but all estates and land acquired
a more solid and certain value. The commercial crisis in
England checked the operations of these companies ; but the
money already advanced greatly aided agriculture and com-
merce to tide over a difficult moment, when the produce
market was declining and crops reduced. On the 18th of August
the Messageries Imperiales steamer ' Ermine ' opened the new
line from Reunion and Mauritius to Suez, thus giving a
second postal communication per month.

A new Protestant church for the Bengali population was
consecrated by the Lord Bishop of Mauritius, the erection of
which was mainly due to the benevolence of one of the most
influential members of the Chambers of Commerce and Agri-
culture.

394 THE INUNDATIONS. [Ch. XXIV.

In January 1865 steam was first applied here to the printing-
press by Mr. Channel, the enterprising editor and publisher of
the ' Commercial Gazette,' the only English newspaper in
Mauritius.

A terrible calamity occurred in the following February. After
several days of heavy rains, on the evening of the 12th, a torrent
rushed down the mountains above Port Louis, and meeting the
streams of the town, formed a vast expanse of raging waters
violently seeking an outlet into the sea. The whole of the
lower part of the town was inundated ; private houses, shops,
sugar stores, all were buried under a thick residuum of mud,
entailing heavy losses of property, and in many instances of
life. A complete stagnation of business ensued ; the railways
were stopped for a time, as the whole of the rivers in the island
overflowed, and did considerable damage in the country, but
not to the extent of that in town.

The total losses were estimated at three-quarters of a
million of dollars.

Grreat complaints were made to the Municipality and Grovern-
ment about the sanitary condition of Port Louis, as its state
was such that should cholera or any epidemic break out it
would to a certainty ravage the place.

Dr. Edwards, who had been sent out as chief sanitary
inspector, was urgent as to the measures that ought to be
adopted to lessen the death-rate, then at far too high a figure.
According to his estimate fever was fast becoming endemic,
and therefore more formidable than cholera.

A petition was forwarded to Her Majesty in the name of
the Council, praying that goods and passengers might be
conveyed to and from Seychelles in foreign vessels, as up to
this time the trade was entirely restricted to British coasting
vessels.

News arrived from Madagascar confirming the signing of the
treaty with England at the capital, where great rejoicing took
place.

This treaty provided for a consular office at Tamatave, with
power over all British subjects ; consuls and agents to reside in
the dominions of the contracting powers.

Exports and imports (except spirits) to pay ten per cent.
The exportation of cows and timber prohibited, and the

Ch. XXIV.] FINE RAILWAY BRIDGES, 395

importation of munitions of war to be the exclusive right of
the Queen of Madagascar.

British ships to have free entry into all ports, and to be
assisted in case of shipwreck, and protected against plunder.
The English were to have full power of purchasing land,
renting and leasing houses, and trading everywhere in the
island, except the three holy cities. The utmost toleration in
religion was accorded, the tolerance to extend to Malagash
converts.

The whole treaty was highly satisfactory, and gave equal
advantage to both countries.

In answer to the Grovernor's proposition, the Secretary of
State authorised a special appropriation of 1,000L to be
expended, under the sanction of the Grovernor in Council, in
payment of stipends to missionary clergymen or catechists
capable of teaching Christianity through the medium of any of
the languages current amongst the Indian immigrants.

On the receipt of the news of the assassination of President
Lincoln, of the United States of America, a letter was sent to
Mr. Mellen, the United States Consul, from the Grovernor and
Council, expressing their detestation of the deed, and their sym-
pathy with the American people and Mrs. Lincoln in their
bereavement ; and it was answered by the Consul in the most
flattering terms.

In October the Midland Line of railway was opened, which
passes over several handsome bridges ; one in particular, the
Grrand Eiver Bridge, is a splendid specimen of its kind, and dis-
plays what science can do in conquering difficulties, and would
be a triumph of art in any capital of Europe, combining light-
ness and elegance with solidity.

An important concession was made to the Royal College by
the University College of London, through the exertions of
His Excellency, to the effect that the students should be per-
mitted to obtain their B.A. degree without the necessity of
leaving the colony, conditionally on their passing a rigid
examination there. For a long time affairs at the college had
given the greatest discontent from the unpopularity of the
rector ; and at last an enquiry was entered into on his conduct,
with but little effect, and nothing but his removal from office
seemed likely to place matters on a different footing.

396 METEOROLOGY. [Ch. XXIV.

Education generally was, however, making rapid strides. At
the annual distribution of prizes it was mentioned that in
1857 there were only twenty-four Grovernment schools, but that
in eight years they had increased to forty-four, entirely sup-
ported by Government, and fifty-three assisted by grants in aid.

On the 9th of November, the anniversary of the birthday of
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, the first lighting of the town with
gas was celebrated by an illumination at Government House and
the Place d'Armes, and since then the principal streets of Port
Louis have had the miserable cocoa-nut oil lamps replaced
by gas.

The year 1865 was a trying one to the colony. The borer
in the canes, disease, and unfavourable weather brought short
crops. The inundation causing such extensive damage and
stagnation in business ; rice and provisions for animals becoming
excessively dear, in consequence of the famine in India, and
thus heightening the planter's expenses, at a time when sugars
were falling in prices, all threw a gloom over the closing year.

So many large failures ensued amongst the planters and
merchants, that at one time there were twenty-fom' fine estates
in the market at once, at the monaent when money was very
scarce.

The indefatigable and talented secretary to the Meteorolo-
gical Society, Mr. Meldrum, left for England, to carry out the
purpose of making Mauritius the reliable centre of meteoro-
logical and magnetic observations in the Indian Ocean. He
intended visiting the great observatories of Europe, in order
to render the new one designed to be built in Port Louis as
complete and convenient as possible. The great luminaries
Humboldt, Herschel, Fitzroy, and others had always marked
out Mauritius as the most desirable station for a fixed land
observatory. Another object in view was to examine the new
delicate standard instruments for some time waiting him in
England, destined for the new observatory.

The inauguration of the statue of Mr. Adrien d'Epinay took
place in the presence of the Grovernor and Lady Barkly, and a
large concourse of spectators, including the elite of the Mau-
ritian community.

When the statue was unveiled, the Mayor, deputy-Mayor,
and others eloquently described the career of the patriot, and

Ch. XXIV.] PRISON DISCIPLINE. 397

then His Excellency addressed the assembly, and expressed the
heartiest sympathy with the grateful conduct of the people of
the colony to their once fellow-citizen.

A visit was paid to Flat Island by the Grovernor and a large
party of officials to examine a convenient place for laying an
electric cable from this island to Port Louis, a distance of
seven miles, a measure calculated to be of great advantage to
the shipping interest, and particularly to the quarantine
station.

A difficult operation in mechanical science was successfully
performed, which demonstrated the resources and ingenuity of
Mauritius. The ' Egmont,' Captain Inglis, bound for Victoria.
Vancouver's Island, arrived with the telegraph cable on board,
which was to complete the ' girdle round the earth ' by uniting
the continents of Asia and America at Behring's Straits.

The vessel met with heavy gales off the Cape in the memo-
rable storms of the 22nd to the 25th of June, and was so sti'ained
as to leak alarmingly, and put into Port Louis for repairs.
The whole of the 275 miles of cable had to be discharged,
and in a comparatively short time the ship was efficiently
repaired, and the cable re-shipped without the slightest injury.

The last months of 1866 were marked by drought, which did
so much mischief to the plantations as to preclude all hopes 01
a fair crop in 1867. The great reduction of crops in 1866, and
the certainty of a still further one in 1867, seriously affected
the colony, and rendered necessary important modifications in
the estimates of the revenue for 1867, as the customs, internal
revenue, and railways all declined in their receipts.

In the meantime many social benefits had accrued to the
colony.

Prisons and prison discipline had been improved, sanitary
laws remodelled, and medical care rendered available to the
labouring classes. A reformatory school was projected, the
Orphan Asylum and other benevolent institutions well main-
tained, and both Catholic and Protestant clergy were zealous to
spread religious instruction over the Island.

The Union Steam Company's ships replaced the P. & 0.
Company satisfactorily ; the central railway station was com-
pleted, and electric telegraphs commenced on each line of rail-
way. Jurisprudence received considerable improvement in

398 CHURCH ASSOCIATION. [Ch. XXIV.

some important items ; amongst others a law was passed to faci-
litate taking evidence in cases of abduction of children ; and
another to abolish judicial mortgages. Commerce too had its
share of the consideration of the Council ; an ordinance was
passed regulating imported goods ; another remedied abuses in
collecting debts at Kodrigues ; and a third extended the disci-
plinary powers of the Chamber of Brokers.

The distillery laws were amended, and a draft ordinance in-
troduced to establish reformatory schools.

Immigration in 1866 was on a comparatively limited scale,
but quite equal to the requirements of the planters. A medical
pharmaceutic society was formed, its regulations permitting
of deliberations on every branch of medical and scientific
study.

The president appointed was Dr. C. Regnaud, and the society
was formed of all the medical faculty in the island.

The Church of England Young Men's Association was reopened
by a lecture delivered by Sir Henry Barkly, on English litera-
ture, which united a comprehensive and erudite view of the
subject with attraction enough to keep a large audience atten-
tive the whole evening.

The intense heat and the continued drought at the beginning
of the year encouraged the spread of the fever, which had been
insidiously making its way through Port Louis and the sur-
rounding districts for some time ; and the death-rate steadily
progressed, till it reached the enormous figure of 200 'per diem
in Port Louis alone. The prevalence of this epidemic put a
stop to trade with the exception of articles of absolute neces-
sity. The position of affairs was greatly aggravated by a total
want of quinine. A small quantity was brought from Bourbon,
and realised ,^135 per oz. ! The humane foresight of the Gro-
vernor greatly alleviated this trouble, as he addressed de-
spatches to the Grovernors of Madras and Ceylon, requesting
them to send supplies of quinine, which were quickly re-
sponded to.

Hospitals, dispensaries, depots for provisions, every effort the
Municipality could make, did not keep pace with the rage of
the epidemic, which devastated all classes of society. The effects
of it were almost too terrible to relate ; 10,000 perished in
the month of April alone. The banks and public offices, courts

Ch. XXIV.] PUBLIC STATUES. 399

of justice, railways, nearly all were at a standstill for want of
hands.

Everything that could be done by the Grovernor, officials,
clergy, and men of property was done ; but in the presence of
such overwhelming misery, with thousands of widows and
orphans left destitute, all their efforts fell short of the necessi-
ties of the case.

In June the statue of Sir W. Stevenson was inaugurated at
Grovernment House.

A salute was fired from the citadel as it was imveiled, and an
address was delivered by Sir H. Barkly, well setting forth the
claims of the good and great man to the country's gratitude.
His Excellency was followed by Sir Grabriel Tropier, the Hon.
E. Pitot, Mayor of Port Louis, and others ; and all joined
their testimony of respect and esteem to the public and private
virtues of the late Grovernor.

This statue, as well as that of Mr. A. d'Epinay, was the work
of a young creole sculptor, Mr. P. d'Epinay, whose remarkable
talents had procured him the notice of H.E.H. the Prince of
Wales, by whom he was deputed to model three busts of the
Princess Alexandra.

Subscriptions were raised at home, and reached Mam'itius in
August, to the amount of 2,567^. 15s. 6c?., but even this only
partially arrested the tide of want and misery.

The mortality was declining, but so severe a blow had been
given to commerce by the fever, and to agriculture by the
drought, that the calamity fell heavily on the ♦ Island at a time
when its productions were declining and its bm'dens aug-
menting.

On the 3rd and 4th of January, 1868, a strong gale passed over
the Island, which did some mischief among the shipping, and
stranded the United States steamer ' Warrior' and the English ship
' Bury St. Edmonds.' At the same time an islet was formed at
the mouth of the harbom*, which received the name of Barkly
Island. Little injury was, however, done to the plantations,
and great hopes were entertained that the ensuing crops would
be heavy, and alleviate in some measure the distress of the
place.

The events of 1867 form a dark chapter in the history of
Mam'itius. The pestilence swept off 30,000 of the inhabitants :

400 EFFECTS OF PESTILENCE. [Ch. XXIV.

the taxes for sanitary measures were greatly increased ; com-
jierce suffered severely, and the harbour was almost emptied of
its shipping, for masters of vessels were afraid of entering, as
their crews were sm'e to be attacked with fever on landing.

Societies for social advancement were paralysed, and the
churches were very thinly attended.

All who could fled from the city to the higher parts of the
Island, Savanne, &c., thus leaving a large number of houses un-
tenanted, and reducing the value of property greatly. The
finances of the colony were seriously affected. Notwithstanding
considerable reductions in the expenditiue to meet the falling
off in the revenue, it was necessary to have recourse to additional
taxation. Wine, beer, tobacco, and opium were the articles
chosen, which would bear an extra impost without weighing
unduly on the industrial classes.

The railway receipts were so greatly diminished, that the
establishment was overwhelmed with debts and difficulties ; but
it was hoped that if the improved crops were realised, and the
epidemic ceased, it would also have a share in the return of
prosperity.

Amongst the most important legislative measm'es were some
especially affecting the jurisprudence of the colony. An ordi-
nance was passed for amending the law of forcible ejectments, &c.,
which it was hoped would prove of eminent service in suppres-
sing abuses long existing with regard to immovable property; one
for enabling natural children to inherit property, and another
respecting the Master's Court and land surveyors, were also passed.

The office of Queen's Advocate for the Land Cornet was estab-
lished, and a draft to codify and amend the laws of judicial
sales was before the Council.

An ordinance was passed, codifying and amending the laws
affecting the status of Indian immigrants, sanctioning restric-
tive provisions, which the increase of crime by bands of vagrants
rendered necessary.

By this Act they were obliged to give an account of their
means of subsistence, or be sent to the depot, and, if they
then refused to work, they would be treated as vagrants.

Educational progress had been greatly checked the whole
year. Many of the schools had been closed altogether. The
Royal College was thoroughly disorganised by the incapacity of

Ch. XXI v.] dry docks, customs, etc. 401

its Eector, as well as by its ranks being thinned by fever, so that
it had been for a long time in a state of retrogression.

Nothing but a thoroughly efficient Rector, and judicious
lilling-up of the vacant Professorships, could give it a hope of
success for the future. Several of its ablest Professors had suc-
cumbed to fever.

Immigration from the Presidencies had entirely ceased dur-
ing 1867 ; but the planters were less distressed for hands than
might have been supposed possible. From the excellent system
of medical assistance on the estates, the deaths among the
plantation labom-ers were, in proportion, fewer than among any
other class.

The Dry Docks and Customs necessarily felt severely the
scarcity of vessels in the harbour during the whole year ; in fact,
it would be difficult to say what sources of revenue, public or
private, did not suffer more or less.

A sum of 400L was voted by Council for sending Dr. Meller,
Director of the Botanical Grardens, to Hong Kong, Japan, the
Philippine Islands, New Caledonia, New Hebrides, Society
Islands, and Queensland, to search for new and healthy canes
to renew the old, diseased, and profitless ones in Mauritius.

During January, the epidemic steadily increased. Even in
the districts of Savane, Grrand Port, and others that had
hitherto almost escaped, it spread with such rapidity that
the mortality of the Island for that month amounted to 2,981
victims.

The Credit Foncier de I'lsle Maurice, Societe Coloniale,
proved a total failure ; but the other two Credit Foncier Com-
panies succeeded well, and stood high in the opinion of mer-
chants in London and Paris.

They, doubtless, by their timely aid, saved many a planter
from ruin, and enabled him to tide over this trying period.

In February, the western cemeteries within the town limits
were permanently closed ; and about 400 acres of land were pur-
chased at Bois Marchand for new ones, far beyond the precincts
of the town, yet easily accessible by rail.

At length, driven to it by pressure of circumstances, and it
appearing that nothing else would do, serious discussions began
to take place relative to the drainage of the city, as the only

402 HURRICANES. [Ch. XXIV.

means to restore Port Louis to anything like a sanatory state ;
and estimates were recjuired as to a survey of the whole place.

An order in Council was passed, allowing the Procureur-
Greneral, or his substitute, to plead for private individuals,
(Vhich gave great offence generally.

From the 12th to the 14th of March, the Island was visited by
one of the most terrific hurricanes of this century, which did
incalculable mischief both in town and country. Few of the
vessels in harbour escaped without more or less injury — some
were complete wrecks.

This put the climax to the misery of the colonists. The
short crops, decline in public revenue, and fever had brought the
Island apparently to its lowest point ; and, with the additional
bm'den of dwelling-houses and stores, sugar houses, railway and
other bridges, and public works injured or destroyed, the uni-
versal distress may be better imagined than described.

It needed undaunted courage and perseverance on all sides to
bear up under so many misfortunes.

Further taxation was out of the question, for the losses were
estimated at a million of dollars.

Fever still raged everywhere, especially in the city, and this was
aided by the masses of vegetable and other debris in all directions,
caused by the cyclone ; the cartage not being sufficient to clear
it rapidly away.

The Mail service to Gralle, by the Union Company's steamers,
was stopped, nine months before the contract expired, by paying
an indemnity of 7,500Z.

Grreat excitement was caused in England at the Horse Gruards,
by the 86th Regiment being landed against orders, and from
exaggerated statements in some leading journals as to the ' De-
cimation of the troops.' It turned out that only iivo men had then
died from the fever ; but when this news was reported, nothing-
was heard of any sympathy in the same quarter for the thousands
of civilian victims who were dying monthly.

Appeals were made to the Home Grovernment against the
colony having to pay 45,000^. to England for military defence,
when it had been declared that only a small contingent was
necessary in Mauritius. His Excellency applied for a reduction
of 32,000^. yearly, but up to this time (May) no answer had
been received.

Ch. XX I V.J THE QUEEN'S SYMPATHY. 403

It was proposed to augment the Police force to siicli an extent
that troops would not be required, and that the colony should
pay from 20,000^. to 25,000L for an efficient Eeserve Police
force.

News was brought from Madagascar of the death of the queen,
and conspiracies on all sides and consequent arrests. All, how-
ever, ended quietly ; and a new queen was proclaimed, under
the title of Ranavala Manjaka II. Mr. Cruaux, the English Con-
sular officer, was officially informed that the treaty with England
woidd be respected. According to Malagash law, on the death of
a queen, every man, woman, and child is obliged to cut off the
hair of the head quite close, go bareheaded and barefooted, and,
no matter what the weather, wear the Larnha under the arms,
instead of covering the shoulders. To show the progTess of
civilisation in the capital, the late queen, on account of serious
illness, paid a visit to the sea-side, the first time such an event
had ever taken place in the royal annals of Madagascar.

So heavy were the damages by the cyclone to public works,
that it was found necessary to borrow 100,000^. for governmental
purposes.

In June, a Minute was read in Council by His Excellency,
expressing the gTeat sympathy of Her Majesty the Queen with
the sufferings of her subjects in Mauritius.

On the 22nd of this month, the colony had to deplore the
loss of one of its ablest men, the Hon. Sholto James Douglas,
Acting Proclneur-Greneral.

He met with an accident at a friend's house, and fractm-ed
his leg badly, so that, in a fortnight's time, lock-jaw set in, and
lie died in forty-eight hours afterwards. He was universally
regretted.

The Legislative Council, Supreme Court, Chamber of Agri-
culture and Municipal Council, all bore testimony to the higli
character of this gentleman ; and his benevolence and wide-
spread charity, especially during the epidemic, had earned for
him the expressive title of the ' Friend of the poor.'

A despatch was received from His Grace the Duke of Buck-
ingham to the effect that no diminution could be made i 1
the annual expenditure of 45,000^. for the troops kept in Man
ritius.

The character of the Mauritians must have greatly changed

404 COLONY QUESTIONS. [Ch. XXIV.

since 1826. Lieutenant-General Sir A. Campbell, when speak-
ing to the Minister on the repeated turbulence of the people,
thus described them : —

' They are so docile and gentle, they could be managed by
fovir men and a corporal ! '

But now a regiment is required to keep the peace of the
Island, at a cost of 45,000^.

A new asylum for the poor was opened at Beau Bassin, in
one of the healthiest parts of Plain es Wilhelms, with hospitals,
sanatoriums, and cottages, which bids fair to be of the great-
est benefit, particularly as it was intended to make it self-sup-
porting.

On July 14 medals were distributed by the Grovernor to six
of the police force. These men, under Major O'Brien, Inspector
General of Police, have been well drilled, and become a very
efficient well-disciplined corps, and during the epidemic have
done good service in town and country.

After almost insuperable difficulties from the limited means
at command, the Grand Eiver railway bridge, which was so
severely injured in the hurricane, was repaired sufficiently for all
purposes of traffic, pending the arrival of new iron girders from
England. This was done by means of what is called the
' Howe Truss,' from its inventor, an American. The work was
completed by Mr. Payne, in the most skilful and successful

manner.

The difficulties of such an undertaking may be appreciated
when it is considered that there were four trusses to be hoisted,
each 125 feet long by 19, and each weighing about thirty tons.
These had to be elevated 120 feet ; and to perform this, heavy
hoisting derricks of 25 feet high had to be erected on the top
of the columns.

In September the old question of Indian villages was revived,
as an additional sanatory measure, to prevent the crowding of
Indians in the miserable huts they had always occupied ; but as
usual, so much debating 'pro and con took place, that nothing
was decided on, and it seems very doubtful if this justly needed
step will ever be taken.

Discussions with regard to the drainage of the city constantly
went on, but with incessant opposition.

In a Minute in Council, the Governor, after setting forth ably

Ch. XXIV.] HISTORY. 405

the advantages of the measure, concluded with these emphatic
words : — ' It is very hard that it required an epidemic of such
unexampled severity, as to force and duration, to establish this
truth. There were statistics in abundance to prove that the
colony was fast settling down into a chronic insanatory con-
dition : they were utterly disregarded ! There were continual
exhortings from wise and prudent men to put " our house m
order " while there -was yet time ; but no one stirred ! G-overn-
ment, municipality, and people remained unmoved. Surely we
have all been to blame for not making vigorous efforts, in the
face of such fearful statistics, to arrest the waste of human life.
Surely it should not have needed the subsequent lessons of
pestilence to induce us to follow the example of other com-
munities by improving the drainage and sewerage of this city.'
Some idea of the depreciation of property in Port Louis may
be judged of when the mayor publicly expressed the opinion
that the actual rateable property in Port Louis was something
short of a million sterling to that assigned to it in the then
existing assessment roll.

A terrible disappointment took place when the time for the
sugar harvest arrived. The crops, from which so much was
expected, in consequence of the heavy rains and winds during and
after the cyclone, fell so far short that only 75,000 tons were
actually realised, instead of the hoped-for amount of 150,000.

Towards the end of the year fever abated, but it was greatly
feared that with the intense heat of summer it would again
raise its malignant head.

In December very warm discussions took place as to the
reduction of the salaries of all the Government officials, with
no result.

The year 1869 began with hopes that a favom'able change
might take place in the fortunes of the colony, so long crushed
by troubles of all kinds. Serious financial difficulties were,
however, still to be encountered. The expenditm-e of Govern-
ment was expected to be barely met by the revenue, yet the
inofficial members of the Council refused consent even to a con-
ditional reduction of 10 per cent, on the establishments. Ee-
course was necessarily obliged to be had to further taxation,
and a draft ordinance was passed to increase the revenue by

new stamp duties.

Ff

4o6 LA WS AND TAXES. [Ch. XXIV.

In March various important ordinances became law.
Amongst others was one compelling all ships carrying more than
ten passengers to be provided with a life boat, two buoys, and
all necessaries for use, before putting to sea. In case of neglect,
a fine was to be inflicted, not exceeding 100^. if the fault of the
owners, or 50^. if with the master. The game-laws were amended,
and every person carrying arms was compelled to have a license
under penalty. Stringent laws were put in force to check
cruelty to animals, for the Indians, who have so little regard for
human life, are, as a rule, exceedingly cruel to dumb animals.

Sanitary taxes continued very high, as a large establishment
was obliged to be kept up to relieve the immense amount of
distress, and with that it was with difficulty the still increasing-
poor could be assisted.

Reports were brought about this time of valuable gold fields
supposed to have been discovered near Natal, and attempts
were made to get up a party to proceed thither, but failed.

A petition was presented to the Chamber of Agriculture,
praying for a reduction of the judicial rate of interest from
nine and twelve per cent, to seven, as a boon to the planters
and merchants, to lessen the speculative tone engendered by
exorbitant rates of interest ; for various reasons, however, it
was not complied with.

In April, letters were received from Earl Grranville on the
sanitary condition of Port Louis, stating that the eminent
engineer, Mr. Bazalgette, had been appointed to make a survey
of the city, and report as to the practicability of underground
drainage.

The same mail brought news of the death of Mr. James
Morris, in London, who had been appointed Commissioner
for the colony at the Paris and Dublin Exhibitions, and who had
served as Greneral Grovernment Agent ftr sixteen years : his
loss was much regretted.

In June a revival of the question of Serici culture, or silk-
growing, took place. Numerous letters were written to the Eoyal
Society of Arts and Sciences, and it was again shown beyond a
doubt that silk might be profitably raised to a considerable
amount in the colony : but with as little result as formerly.
The manufacture of various fibres was also again brought for-
ward, particularly of the various kinds of aloes with which the

Ch. XXIV.] ARMED FORCE, 40?

country abounds. The experiment is being made at Petite
Riviere, where a small manufactui'e is established for the con-
version of aloe fibre into cordage. To be made profitable, the
aloes will require cultivation on a large scale, and good steam
machinery will be necessary ; but labour is so dear that it is doubt-
ful if it can ever prove a success in Mamitius. There would be no
cause for doubt if they could compel all the unemployed and
almost starving Indians to work for reasonable wages ; but that
appears to be one of the great difficulties under which the
colony labours. As to the capability of the soil for producing
aloes in as great quantities as could be required, there need be
no question of that ; and many a plain, now waste land, unfit
for cane or other cultm-e, could be planted with these hardy
fibre-producing plants.

Despatches were received from Downing Street, fixing the
amount of troops decided on by the British Grovernment to be
kept in Mauritius. The following table will show of what the
force is to be composed : —

Artillery Battery . . . 106 of all ranks.

Engineers' Corps ... 98 „

Infantry Eegiment . . . 898 ,,

Hospital Corps ... 4 „

To be paid at the rate of 40^. per man for infantry, and 70L for
artillery and engineers, the same as the Australian rate.

No Bishop having been appointed since the departure of
Bishop Eyan in 1868, the Rev. S. Gr. Hatchard was at length
installed as Lord Bishop of Mauritius and the Dependencies, and
in July arrived with Mrs. Hatchard and family.

Though apparently a change for the better took place in
the sanitary condition of the Island, the death-rate was still
heavy. During the year 1869,11,495 deaths were registered,
at least half of them from fever.

Considerable progress was made in the manufacture of sugar
by the use of Dr. Icery's process, though a great decline in
the amount of sugar raised was inevitable from the great
mortality of late years, and the comparatively few Indian im-
migrants introduced. In the course of this year many import-
ant draft ordinances were passed, besides those above mentioned.
Imprisonment for debt was abolished ; the illegal practice of

4o8 DEPRECIATION. [Ch. XXIV.

medicine and surgery prevented ; the sale of poisons and other
matters relative to pharmacy regulated ; the extension of the
powers of the District Courts allowed ; measures taken for the
prevention and punishment of arson ; extension of relief for
distressed seamen ; a central rum warehouse established, &c.

The number of bankruptcies and consequent sales and de-
preciation of valuable property were much less frequent in
1869 than in the two previous years. The Credit Foncier of
Mauritius, Limited, was gradually growing into importance ; its
large capital was securely employed and its affairs prosperous,
while its utility to agriculture and British capitalists was daily
more appreciated. Taken altogether, the year 1870 opened
with fairer prospects in many ways than had been seen since the
beginning of the terrible epidemic. In February 1870 the
colony was shocked by the announcement of the death of the
recently installed Lord Bishop. After barely two days of illness
from fever, death had ensued before any, save those near him,
knew of his illness ; just when he was acquiring a knowledge of
the spiritual requirements of his diocese, and becoming inti-
mate with the various congregations in the Island.

Continuous dry weather at this time excited great fears in
the public mind as to the coming crops, and the subject of
irrigation was brought before the Chamber of Agricultm'e. A
plan was projected for directing the waters of the Mare aux
Vacoas, in the centre of the Island, to the plains below. The
original plan appears to have involved a very large outlay, with
scarcely adequate results, but it is likely it may eventually be
adopted in a modified form. The subjects of preserving the
forests and re-wooding the country were again hotly discussed in
Council, and draft ordinances were brought forward, but none
were unanimously received.

Proposals were made for connecting Mauritius with the
various ports on the Indian Ocean and the Cape of G-ood Hope
by submarine telegraph, a scheme of the greatest benefit to the
colony at large. It was, however, negatived for the time ; but
hopes were held out that by the time the company was formed
in Europe the Island would be in a condition to meet its share
of the expense.

In April, a despatch was received from Lord G-ranville relative
to the report of Mr. Bazalgette on the underground drainage.

Ch. XXIV.] NEW FLAG. 409

Most violent opposition to the project was manifested by a large
portion of the community ; in fact, they went so far as to petition
the Queen against it. One plea m-ged was that the turning up
of all the ground in the city, so long saturated from the drains,
would be fatal to the public health ;^ and also on account of the
heavy expense it would incur. Year after year this goes on, and
little is done to get rid of the pestilential gutters and drains
in use, not to speak of other nuisances ; meanwhile death is
reaping a heavy harvest while the people are quarrelling as to
how the city shall be cleansed, and no one seems able to propose
any feasible plan that will solve the difficulty.

It having been at last decided that the visit of H.K.H. the
Duke of Edinbm-gh, so long delayed on account of the epidemic,
should positively take place in 1870, great preparations were
made to receive the first Prince of royal English blood that had
ever approached these shores. News was brought that in May
the royal visitor might be expected. A Committee, styled the
Duke of Edinburgh's, was appointed ; horses were sent for from
the Cape, wines and provisions from Em'ope ; Government
House was furbished up ; the streets newly macadamised ; paint
and whitewash everywhere ; triumphal arches constructed ; and
amusements of all sorts planned. The members of the Eoyal
Society of Arts and Sciences agreed to get up an exhibition of
the various products of the Island, and all was excitement and
anticipation.

By the April mail the Flag arrived, selected for Mauritius by
the Naval Authorities of Grreat Britain. It consists of a blue
ensign, in the fly of which is a shield quartered severally with
a ship, three cane plants, a key, and a star rising from the
ocean. The motto is ' Stella clavisque maris Indicis.' It was
intended to first unfmi this flag on welcoming His Royal High-
ness to Mauritius when landing from the ' Galatea.'

The Duke was at this time being feted at Ceylon ; and the
May mail brought the news that the august visitor would arrive
about the 18th.

The whole place was in a flutter ; the shops were gay with

' Query — Would not the leaving that saturated subsoil be still more fatal than
having it turned out and done with for ever ? Is it not daily doing mischief when
the mephitic vapours it engenders are forced into the atmosphere through the
open drains?

4IO DUKE OF EDINBURGH. [Ch. XXIV.

finery for the coming fetes ; and most unusual bustle pervaded
everywhere.

Sad disappointment was experienced when the 18th arrived,
but no Prince. Day after day passed, and Her Majesty's loyal
Mauritian subjects began to fear that all the addresses and
speeches prepared for royal ears were vain, and that some cause
had again tm'ned the ' Galatea ' from their port. The spirits
of the people were still further depressed by the death, on the
23rd, of one of the members of the Legislative Council, the
Hon. H. Koenig, a distinguished veteran of the Mauritius bar.

Every day the programme for the Duke's entertainment was
changed ; and it was not till about 1 1 a.m. on the 24th that
the Union Jack on Signal Mount announced the approach of
the ' Galatea.' At 4.30 p.m. she anchored, and after a salute
from the forts, his Excellency the Governor, attended by his
aid-de camp, Major O'Brien, extra aid- de-camp for the occa-
sion, and Mr. Arthur Barkly, his private secretary, repaired on
board to welcome the Prince. The same evening a quiet
landing was effected ; and he dined with the Governor, returning
in the same manner, to sleep on board.

The following programme will show the arrangements made
by the committee for the Prince's welcome. It was arranged
on the supposition of his arriving on the 20th ; but being delayed
four days later, the whole had to be somewhat modified to com-
press it into a shorter space of time.

1870.
May 20. — Friday. Arrived.

„ 21. — Satm'day. Lands officially at noon — Levee at
2 P.M. — In the evening Lady Barkly's reception.

„ 22. — Sunday.

„ 23. — Monday. Laying of foundation-stone of the Me-
teorological Observatory at twelve o'clock —
Botanical Gardens at Pamplemousses at 1 p.m.
Evening — Municipal banquet.

„ 24. — Tuesday. Queen's Levee — Regatta — State dinner.

„ 25. — Wednesday. Morning concert — Queen's ball in
the evening.

„ 26. — Thursday. Chasse at Fressanges.

„ 27. — Friday. Chasse at and return from Fressanges —
Masonic Ball

Ch. XXIV.] FETES. 411

May 28. — Saturday. Kaces — Theatre in the evening.

,5 29. — Sunday.

„ 30. — Monday. Mahebourg — Entertainmentsby the 86th
K.C.D. Eegiment.

„ 31. — Tuesday. Exhibition — Cricket ball.
June 1. — Wednesday. Departure for Bois Sec.

„ 2. — Thursday. Chasse at Bois Sec.

„ 3. — Friday. Lawn party at Eeduit.

„ 4. — Saturday. Departure.

Numerous addresses were also presented to the Prince.

This, of course, is not the place to comment on hoiv the
arrangements were carried out ; suffice it to say. His Eoyal
Highness expressed himself greatly pleased with his visit to
Maiuritius.

The last few days were all hurry and bustle, for His Excellency
and family were on the point of leaving for England, his term
of office having expired.

On the 3rd of June, by the Mail steamer. Sir H. Barkly, his
lady and daughter, left Mauritius, taking with them regrets
from all classes, not only for his zeal and incessant application
to business, and his earnest endeavours to promote the welfare
of the colony, but for the kindliness and warmth of feeling
shown in the trials the Island had passed through during his
administration. It is only necessary to mention the inunda-
tion of 1865, the fevers of 1867, 1868, and 1869, and the hurri-
canes of 1868, to recall the many acts of sympathy by which the
Grovernor testified his feelings for the people under his tem-
porary rule.

When the Mail steamer had left the harbour, she was followed
by the ' Galatea,' slowly steaming away from the shores of
Mauritius, putting an end to the short-lived gaiety, and leaving
Port Louis to sink back to its normal dulness.

The following day. His Honour, Brigadier-Greneral E. S.
Smythe, senior officer commanding the troops in Mauritius,
was sworn in as officer administering the government, until
such time as the new Grovernor, Mr. Arthur Grordon, should
arrive.

February 21, 1871, the Hon. Arthur Hamilton Gordon,
C.M.G., landed in Mauritius, and assumed the Governorship of
the colony.

CHAPTEE XXV.

JiEIEF SUMMARY OF THE GEOGRAPHY OF MAURITIUS, ITS
DEPENDENCIES, CIVIL AND MILITARY STATISTICS, VARIOUS
INDUSTRIES, COMMERCE, ^e.

The Greography of Mauritius— Its Physical Aspect and Climate— Its Dependencies
— Account of Seychelles— Internal Communication — Post Office and Foreign
Telegraph Scheme— Hackney Coaches, &c.— Defences, Military, Police and
Naval — Money, Weights, and Measures— Banks— Credit Foncier, &c. — The
various Industries of Mauritius— Foreign Commerce — Decadence of Commercial
Affairs generally.

The Island of Mauritius lies just within the Tropics, of
irregular shape ; at its greatest length, viz. from Cape Mal-
heureux to Pointe Dernis, it measiues 39 miles, and at its
widest part, about 34 across, though from the coast of Petite
Eiviere to Point Quatre Cocos, in Flacq, its breadth is only 28
miles.

Its distance from the nearest land (Eeunion) is about 115 miles ;
from Madagascar, 500 ; Eodrigues, 300 ; Seychelles, 915 ; Cape
Comorin, 2,000 ; the Cape of Grood Hope, 2,300 ; the nearest
point in Australia (Cape Cuvier), 3,000; nearly 11,000 from
England, via the Cape, or 7,000 by the overland route.

It possesses an area of about 700 square miles, giving in
exact measurement 432,689 acres.

The physical aspect of the Island is in general picturesque,
from the bold and grand outlines of the lofty hills, with their
peculiarly formed and varied summits. The north is, for the
most part, a vast plain, covered with cane lands, and the centre
an elevated plateau, rising to above 1,500 feet beyond sea-level.
From this elevation, the principal mountain-ranges diverge,
and the land descends gradually from Carepipe to Grrand Port,
The eastern side presents a rich and well-cultivated district.

The coast is deeply indented with bays ; but there are only

Ch. XXV.] MOUNTAINS. 413

three safe approaches for vessels — the Harbour of Port Louis,
the Ray of Grrand Port, and the Bale de la Eiviere Noire.

Islands are very numerous, but all small. The principal are
Isle aux Tonneliers, near Port Louis, connected with it by a
causeway, on which stands Fort Greorge, commanding the
entrance to the harbour ; the Coin de Mire, Isle Platte, Le
Colombier, Grabriel, Isle Eonde, and Isle aux Serpents, to the
north of Mauritius; Butte a I'llerbe and Isle d'Ambre, on the
coast of the Eiviere du Eempart ; Isle aux Cerfs and des
Eoches, near Flacq ; Isles Marianne, aux Fouguets, aux
Vacoas, de la Passe, aux Singes, and des AigTettes, near Grrand
Port ; and on the coast of the Eiviere Noire, the Isles aux
Fourneaux, du Morne, and des Benitiers.

MoiLntavas.

There are three principal ranges of moimtains. The first, called
the Port Louis Grroup, encircles the city, extending towards
Pamplemousses. One line of the group includes Mountains
Ory, the Pouce, Peter Both, and the Callebasses Mountains.
One spur terminates abruptly in the cliffs of the Signal Moun-
tain, above the western surburb of Port Louis ; another, to the
east, is Petite Montague, surmounted by the Citadel, and rising
from the great plain of the Champ de Mars ; behind it lies the
Montague des Pretres, and de I'Embrasure ; and, still farther, the
Montague Longue, de Eipaille, and the Nouvelle Decouverte.
The principal elevations of this group, according to French
authorities, are : Peter Both, 2,874 feet ; Pouce, 2,707 feet ;
Montague Longue, 611 feet; Signal Mountain, 1,136 feet.
Most of these mountains are covered only with rank coarse grass
and stunted shrubs ; a few are wooded to their summits.

The second group commences with the Mountains of the
Corps de Garde and those of the Plaines of St. Pierre ; and in
this chain are included the Trois Mamelles and the Eempart
Mountains. Between these mountains lies the basin of the
Eiviere du Eempart, and almost parallel with them run the
Brise de Fer, Tamarin, and Des Vacoas Mountains. Those of the
Terre Eouge shoot off into Savane, and the mountains of the
Eiviere Noire terminate with the Morne Brabant and Piton de
la Fougue ; the Mountains of Savane forming the southern
extremity.

414 MOUNTAINS. [Ch. XXV.

The Piton of the Eiviere Noire is the highest mountain in
Mauritius, being 2,902 feet above the sea, thus exceeding the
Peter Both by 28 feet; the Eempart Mountains, 2,710 feet.
Corps de Grarde, 2,525 feet ; Savane, 2,429 feet ; the highest of
the Trois Mamelles, 2,340 ; and Morne Brabant, 1,937 feet.

The third, or south-western group, extends from Grrand
River, SE. to the centre of the Island. Various spurs run
southwards, the principal of which are the Cent Graulettes,
Creoles, Camisard, Grand Port, Bambou, Diable, and Feuilles.

The highest of these are the Bambou, 2,204 feet ; Grrand
Port, 1,703 feet; and Creoles, 1,286. Those near the coast are
mostly rugged and barren, while the mountains towards the
interior of the Island are well wooded, and of great interest to
the naturalist.

There are often elevations not included in these groups, all
more or less isolated ; the principal of which are, Le Piton du
Milieu de I'lsle, in Moka ; Fayence and Montague Blanche, in
Flacq; Le Grand and Petit Malabar, La Meule a Foin, La
Motte a Therese, Le Piton, La Butte des Papayers, and Mounts
Oret, Mascal, and Candos. A chain of signal stations is
established round the Island, the principal one being on the
Port Louis Mountain. From it ships can be seen at a great
distance ; and on clear days, in certain states of the atmosphere,
Bourbon is said to be visible. On it is a time-ball which falls
daily at one o'clock, very exact when it does work, but not
unfrequently out of order. A telegraph wire connects the
station with the Post Office. A zigzag path has been cut up
the east face of the mountain, so that it is easily ascended. It
well repays climbing, if only for the fine view of the city and
harboiu: it affords, and the pure bracing air, so invigorating
when once the base of the mountain is scaled.

Between these varied groups of mountains are many beauti-
ful valleys. In the first group is the Anse Courtois, between
Mount Ory and Port Louis ; that in which the city lies, the
upper part called the Vallee of the Pouce ; the Vallee Pitot, and
Vallee des Pretres, beyond the Citadel towards Mount Longue ;
and the Vallees de Peter Both and La Nicoliere. The valleys
of the second group of mountains are little worthy of notice ;
but in the third group are the Vallee des Cent Gaulettes, com-
prising a large part of the district of Grand Port, well watered

Ch. XXV.] PLATEAUX, RIVERS. 415

and possessing a rich soil, and greater humidity from the large
quantity of rain that falls here compared with the rest of the
Island. The Plaine des Hollandais, part of which is called
Beau Vallon, was the site of the first Dutch settlement. Les
Bambous is also another fine valley of about 1,500 acres, &c.

The centre plateau, comprising the districts of Moka and
Plaines Wilhelms, on account of its coolness, especially the
latter, is rapidly increasing its population. It is principally in
these districts that the country houses of merchants and others
are situated, who come into Port liouis by rail every morning,
retm-ning home in the evening. The climate at Curepipe and
Vacoas is cool early and late in the day (though hot at noon)
even in summer, and is positively cold in winter, which can
scarcely be said of Port Louis at any time.

As may be supposed from so much mountain and table-land
the Island is abundantly watered. There are no less than sixty
rivers and streams flowing to the sea, but all are small ; very
many cease to flow in dry weather, and the largest are only full
after heavy rains, when their rise is so rapid as often to occasion
much mischief — but they descend to their ordinary level with
equal rapidity.

Taking the first group of mountains as the first watershed, we
have the Euisseau St. Louis running through the city, the
Creoles, Pouce, La Butte a Tonier, des Pucelles, and the
Fanfaron ; all (except the latter, where the docks are) filthy
streams, stagnant the greater part of the year, most fertile sources
of malaria. Then the rivers Lataniers, sacred to Indian rites,
Terre Eouge, Seche, Tombeau, and Pamplemousses drain the
north-western slope ; while the Eivieres du Eempart, Franpoise,
and Poste du Flacq drain the other slope.

The central table-land forms a second watershed, whence flow
the Grande Eiviere NW. on the west, and Grrande Eiviere SE.
on the east.

From the third group the Nyon, Champagne, des Creoles and
de la Chaux rise.

The Black Eiver and Savane Mountains are a fourth water-
shed. Their south-eastern slope is drained by the Tabac, du

^i6 DIVISIONS. [Ch. XXV.

Poste, des Anguilles, de la Savane, des Gralets, des Citronniers,
du Cap, and other streams ; through their gorges on the west
flow the rivers Noire, du Tamarin, du Eempart, des Galets,
Dragon, Belle Isle, and Petite Eiviere.

Mares^ &c.

There are several natural collections of water, which take the
name either of Bassins or Mares. The principal of these is the
Grand Bassin among the mountains of Savane. The Bassin Blanc
in the same district is dry during a part of the year. La Mare
aux Vacoas is shallow, but has an extent of nearly two square
miles in rainy weather, feeding many small streams. It is pur-
posed to utilise its waters by constructing dams, &c., which
will be a boon to the residents near it in dry weather.

In Flacq are the Mares la Boue, St. Amand, aux Fougeres,
and Lubines, the latter near the sea, and influenced by the tides.

In Grand Port are large mares, but, except in the wet season,
they are only insignificant pools. The Mare de la Violette and
Les Mares have the same outlet for their waters. La Mare la
Sablonniere covers several acres in the rainy season, when it has a
depth of fifteen to twenty feet in places.

In the district of Moka, in the Quartiers militaires, are the
Mares Delvoye and Eameau.

Divisions, Towns, &c,

Mauritius is divided into nine districts, viz. : — Port Louis,
Pamplemousses, Eiviere du Eempart, Flacq, Grand Port,
Savane, Eiviere Noire, Plaines Wilhelms, and Moka.

Port Louis.

Its 'greatest length is five and a half miles from east to west,
and its breadth four miles from north to south. It extends from
Grand Eiver to the left bank of Terre Eouge Oliver. Its coast,
including indentations, is about seven miles. The principal
places are Port Louis, aux Pailles, La Grande Eiviere, Eoche
Bois, and La Vallee des Pretres.

Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius, lies in the NW. of the
Island.

Since 1850, it has been placed under a Municipal Corpora-

Ch. XXV.] CENSUS. 417

tion, consisting of a mayor, deputy-mayor, and sixteen coun-
cillors.

Aux Pailles consists principally of country cottages belonging
to persons employed in the city ; and there are numerous
market gardens cultivated by Indians, the red earth of which,
when well watered, being singularly fertile.

At Grrande Eivi^re are the lunatic asylum and a vagrant
depot ; and a suspension bridge spans the river.

At Roche Bois are also coimtry houses, many on a very
diminutive scale ; but all the gardens are uncared for, and the
whole place has a desolate look : there are many kilns here for
burning coral. It is frequently resorted to for sea-bathing ;
this shore being better adapted for that purpose than any other
part of Port Louis.

At the last census the city had a population of 74,128, or
7,413 persons to the square mile. No wonder in such a hot-
bed that an epidemic carried off so many thousands I It has
now only a very greatly diminished number of inhabitants.'

Pamplemousses,

It is thirteen miles from N. to S., and as many from E. to
W., and takes its name from the Shaddock, called here Pam-
plemousses. The coast is about fifteen miles in length, entirely
defended by coral reefs. ' '

It is divided into eight cantons : viz. Montague Longue, Le
Piton, Peter Both, La Riviere des Callebasses, La Villebague,
Bois Rouge, Mapou, and Le Tombeau.

The principal places are, Pamplemousses, La Terre Rouge,
L' Arsenal, La Villebague, Le Trou aux Biches, La Grrande
Bale, Riche Terre, Powder Mills, La Pointe aux Piments.

At Pamplemousses are the famous Botanical Gardens.

Powder Mills has an orphan asylum. At Riche Terre is a
large nunnery.

The population was 53,598, or 615 persons to the square mile.

Riviere du Remjpart.
This district is fourteen miles from N. to S. and six from E.
to W., and owes its name to the principal river in it.

The coast is deeply indented, but has no harbour for large

' The population given is taken from the Census before the epidemic.

4i8 ITINERARY, [Ch. XXV.

vessels : including the bays, it extends about tbirty-five miles.
It has seven cantons : Bois Eouge, Le Mapou, Poudre d'Or, Le
Piton, La Plaine, St. Cloud, Eiviere du Eempart, and La
Plaine des Eoches ; all having villages of the same name.
Population 19,331, or 333 persons to the square mile.

Flacq,

This district, the first in size, and third in population, has
an area of 113 square miles. It acquired its name from the
Dutch, but ' Flat ' can only apply to those parts near the sea.
The indentations are few, and the coast-line about twenty miles
in length.

It has eight cantons : Flacq, La Mare aux Lubines, Les
Quatre Cocos, Trou d'Eau douce. La Eiviere Seche, La Mare

A

aux Fougeres, Les Trois Hots, and Camp de Masque.

Formerly, the Poste du Flacq was the principal village, but
one has sprung up near the railway station which is now the
more important, and where the district court is held.

Population 41,468, or 367 persons to the square mile.

Grand Port.

The fine bay gives its name to this district, which has an
area of 112 square miles.

The coast, including openings, measures twenty-nine miles.

It has seven cantons : Les Mares d' Albert, Plein Bois, La
Mare du Tabac, Les Cents Gaulettes, La Eiviere la Chaux, La
Eiviere des Creoles and la Cote.

Population 35,564, or 317 persons to the square mile.

Savane.

This district has an area of ninety-two miles, and takes its
name from a large savannah or plain in its eastern district.

It has a coast-line of about eighteen miles, which is prin-
cipally devoid of reefs, and the surf breaks direct on the shore.

There are only two cantons : La Grande and La Petite Savane :
their two principal places are Souillac and Jacotet.

The population is 21,026, giving 228 persons to the square
mile.

Riviere Noire.
One of the largest rivers gives the name to the district,
which has an area of about ninety-four square miles.

Ch. XXV.] ITINERARY. 419

There are several bays on its coast, which, including them, is
about thirty-five miles in length.

It is divided into six cantons : La Petite Eiviere Noire, La
Plaine St. Pierre, Le Tamarin, La Eiviere Noire, Le Coteau
Eapu, and Les Grorges du Cap.

The principal places are Eiviere Noire, Tamarin, Bambou,
Petite Eiviere Noire, and Morne Brabant.

At the village of Bambou .are the courts of the district, and
stipendiary magistrates, police station, &c.

Population 17,171, or 182 persons to the square mile.

Plaines Wilhelms.

This fine district has an area of about seventy square miles,
and derived its name from two brothers, Dutchmen, who settled
here in 1690.

It has only about fourteen miles of coast.

It is divided into Upper and Lower Plaines Wilhelms,and these
are again subdivided into four cantons : La Terre Eouge, Les
Quatre Bornes, Le Bassin, and Les Vacoas ; and the principal
places are Plaines Wilhelms, Le Trou aux Cerfs, Curepipe, Les
Vacoas, Petite Eiviere.

Population 28,014, or 400 persons to the square mile.

This district has a larger number of Em'opeans residing in it
than any other in the Island.

Moka.

It was here the coffee tree was planted when introduced from
]\Iocha, in Arabia, and thus its name.

It has an area of sixty-eight square miles, but no coast, as it
lies between the districts of Port Louis, Flacq, Plaines Wilhelms,
and Grand Port.

It has six cantons : Les Pailles, Moka, La Terre Eouge, and
the Quartiers Militaires ; and its three principal places are
Moka, Malagassy Village, and Eeduit. The latter is the country
residence of the Governor. The former has both Catholic and
Protestant churches; and Malagassy Village is said to have
been formed by a number of natives of Madagascar, who escaped
from the persecutions to which the professors of Christianity
were exposed in that country.

Population 17,704, or 260 persons to the square mile.

420 HEAT AND CLIMATE. [Ch. XXV.

Glimate.

Mauritius, though within the Tropics, enjoys on the whole a
very fair climate, and were the sanitary regulations of both city
and country well carried out, it might be a very healthy one.
The sky is remarkably clear, and except in hurricane weather
there are few days in the year in which walking is impossible
during some part of the day.

From December to April the heat is intense in Port Louis,
frequently as bad by night as by day. About this time the
evenings and mornings begin to cool a little, and by the middle
of May, the heat is bearable ; and till November the climate is
fine, with occasional exceptions. There is a vast difference in
the country, on the Plaines Wilhelms' side especially. There
the temperature varies many degrees from that of Port Louis :
the nights are cool even in summer, and in winter, on the
heights of Curepipe and Vacoas, a fire is welcome ; a luxury
rarely to be procured, as there are only two or three grates, I
believe, in the Island. It should be stated that such articles
(so suggestive of pleasant evenings at home) would be but
superfluities in other than the above-mentioned districts. I
give the following note, the result of a series of observations
made at Powder Mills, a few miles from Port Louis. The mean
annual height of the thermometer for the year at sunrise was
70°, in the afternoon 86°, and at sunset 72°; the maximum
was 90°, and the minimum 61° 5'. This, I should think, would
be a fair average for Port Louis, Pamplemousses, and Flacq ; so
it may be well seen how little the residents in these districts
require any artificial heat in their dwellings.

The hurricane season in Mauritius extends from about the
beginning of December to the middle of April, and the cyclones,
so dreaded by mariners, and often so destructive to life and
property, range from about 8° to 30° S. latitude. There are
certain signs by which their approach is indicated, thus giving
warning to masters of vessels and others to prepare for the
coming storm — a falling barometer, sombre atmosphere, the
clouds of a yellowish grey shade, sultry oppressive weather, an
irregular wind, and generally rain in fitful gusts.

In general, on the eve of the storm, the mountains are misty,
white clouds are detached from a black ground, and chase each

Ch. XXV.] STORMS. 421

other violently. At sunset the sky looks coppery ; squalls from
the SE. are followed by sudden calms. The barometer sensibly
lowers, and if the squalls become stronger and more frequent,
a cyclone is pretty sure to follow. The roaring of the wind is
so loud dming one of these storms that the growling of the
thimder is almost unheard. It is rarely that cyclones pass over
Mam'itius for two consecutive years, though it is an exceptional
case when it does not get the fag end of one or more. The
years which pass without sharp storms may be marked with a
black letter, for they are as a rule most unhealthy, and have
but too often been visited by some dire disease.

Slight shocks of earthquake have been occasionally felt here,,
but I am not aware that they were ever accompanied with
damage.

The longest days are at the December solstice, and the shortest
at the June solstice. The length of the longest day from sun-
rise to sunset is thirteen hours twelve minutes ; the shortest,
ten hours forty-eight minutes. The difference of time between
the observatories of Grreenwich and Port Louis is three hours
forty-nine minutes fifty-eight seconds, the latter of course in
advance of the former.

Hail, though it very rarely falls, yet does sometimes fall in
Mauritius, principally in the district of Grrand Port.

There has been no active volcano here within the memory of
man, though the continuous streams of lava found all over the
Island, that once flowed to the sea in every direction from the
craters formerly active, show that the eruptions must have been
on the grandest scale. In the sister isle of Bomrbon is a volcano
constantly in eruption.

The prevailing wind in Mauritius is the SE. trade wind ; from
the middle of May to the middle of October it blows chiefly
from SE. and ESE., passing occasionally to N. and NW.
During the rest of the year it is chiefly from ESE. to ENE. ; as
a general rule, it veers from SE. to E., NNW., and W., veering
seldom in the contrary direction. When the wind sets in from
the W., or the 'vent du large,' everyone is complaining, migraines
and nervous complaints are prevalent.

The rains are very irregular : in some years genial showers
fall during most months, rendering the whole Island fertile, and
spreading verdure to the mountain summits, and a pleasing

Gg

4-22

RAINFALL.

[Ch. XXV.

murmm- of content spreads through the land, in anticipation of
good crops, on which the whole prosperity of the place depends ;
in other years, such heavy incessant torrents fall (especially
in those visited by hurricanes), that the canes imbibe too much
moisture, and their precious juice is deteriorated. Bad as this is,
it is comparatively trifling to the mischief done in the frequent
long droughts, when months pass, and scarcely more rain falls
than suffices to keep trees and canes alive. Every shade of
grass dries up, and the hea\^ look of care in the face of every
planter you meet but too well accords with the dreary aspect
of nature.

Then, again, the rainfall differs greatly in various parts of
the Island : near the forest lands, steady regular rains fall, and
the crops are fine ; whereas to the north everything is parched up
for want of rain, and there is no means of irrigation.

The following table will show the difference of the rainfall
for a series of years, as figured in the Transactions of the Meteoro-
logical Society ; taking Cluny in Grrand Port as the maximum,
Labourdonnais in Eiviere du Eempart as the medium, and Port
Louis as the minimum.

Cluny

Labourdonnais

Port Louis

Inches

Inches

Inches

Total fall in 1869 .

129-37

63-73

54-57^

1868 .

183-74

70-46

64-18

1867 .

141-23

56-99

35-970

1866 .

129-42

50-29

20-741

1 1865 .

192-45

87-63

44-737

1 1864 .

122-48

57-25

24-147

' 1863 .

147-09

70-72

33-420

1862 .

122-54

52-23

28-397

The ' monthly means of the barometer, dry and wet bulb ther-
mometers, dew point, elastic force of vapour, relative humidity,
amount of cloud, and force of wind,' during the year 1869, as
published in the Blue Book, will give a fair general idea of the
average of the above meteorological features, in years when there
are no hurricanes and a small rainfall. This table has been
derived from the four observations taken daily at 3.30 a.m.
9.30 A.M. 3.30 p. M. and 9.30 p.m. The highest and lowest
reading of the dry and wet bulb thermometers are obtained
from self-registering thermometers : —

Ch. XXV.] DEPENDENCIES. 423

The mean height of the barometer for the year was 30'084

Highest reading (corrected) of barometer . . 30-372 at 9^ a.m. Aug. 8

Lowest „ „ . . 29-717 at 3^ P.M. Feb 7

Mean daily barometric oscillation . . . . 0' 60

Mean temperature of year ..... 79" 2°

Highest reading of maximum dry bulb ther. in shude 93* 2° Feb. 19 , ^ „

T . • • an ao K oo 1 ^^inge 25.6°

Lowest ,, minimum ,, „ 67* 6° Aug. 23 ) ^

Highest reading of maximum wet bulb ., 82* 0° Jan. 25 ^

T . • • n-T oo A T Range 24-1°

Lowest ,, minimum „ ., 57* 9° Aug. 7 ^

Highest dew point (from the six-hourly observations) 77' 7^ Jan. 25 ) ^

Lowest „ „ „ 49- 0°Aug.6}l^^°«''287°

Highest tension of vapour ..... '949 Jan. 2 )

Lowest „ -347 Aug.5^^^^g^•6^^

Highest relative humidity (TO = compl.. sat.) . '865 Feb. 2 \ _

LoLt. „ „ . . . . ■410Dec.uiK*''g'>-*«

Rainfall during the year ..... 54"53o inches.

Greatest fall in twenty-four hours .... 8*00 inches.

Number of days on which rain fell . , . 120

Dependencies of Mauritius.

The following islands are reckoned in the Dependencies of
Mauritius, and receive supplies of all sorts from it.

There are many other small islands, but mostly barren rocks.
Some are merely coral atolls, notably so the Cosmoledo group.
The two small islands, St. Paul and Amsterdam, so far south as
37° and 38° S. lat., 78° E. long., also form part of the depen-
dencies of Mauritius, though seldom visited, except by the
whalers of the Southern Seas.

From the six islands great quantities of cocoa-nut oil are sent
yearly to Mauritius, and salted fish from the St. Brandon Isles
and Rodrigues. Our American whalemen cruise constantly in
the waters near these islands, and numbers of vessels are
annually laden with the spoils of the monster sperm whales
found in this vicinity. The whole of the islands have danger-
ous reefs near them, compelling the most careful navigation when
approaching them. Many a fine vessel has come to grief on
these treacherous rocks, and has had to be abandoned, an utter
wreck.

Curious and valuable marine and land shells abound, and
might easily be procured if the fishermen could be induced to
take a little trouble in collecting them. St. Brandon is noted
for the beautiful scarlet coral, the Tuhifora musica.

424

ISLAND GROUPS.

[Ch. XXV.

Names

Latitude S. j Longitude E.

Occupations

Between

Between

The Cargados Carayos,^

O / O /

o

/ O /

or St. Brandon Isles, >

16 15 and 16 57

50

0 and 60 0

Fishing.

sixteen in number. J

Agalega ....

10 30

56

30

f Cocoa-nut
I plantations.

Cortivy ....

7 30

56

30

Ditto.

The Perhos Banhos, i
twenty-five in number, i

5 10 and 5 25

71

45 and 72 0

Ditto.

Solomon's or Onze Isles .

5 17 and 5 22

71

13 and 73 18

■ Ditto and
. wood-cutting.

Nelson Island or Segour .

5 41

72

22

Trois Freres .

6 6 and 6 10

71

34 and 71 38

Ditto.

Eagle Isles, two in number.

6 10 and 6 15

71

21 and 71 24

Isle au Danger

6 23

71

17

The Six Islands

6 39

71

20 and 71 27

Ditto.

Diego Garcia .

70 0

72

0 and 73 0

Ditto.

Eodrigues

19 41

63

23

Various.
'Cotton and
Sugar,

The Seychelles, thirtyO

Tobacco,
Maize,
' Oranges,

five or thirty-six in >
number. J

3 43 and 5 45

55

13 and 56 10

Coffee and

the Coco de

^Mer.

The Cosmoledo group, )
four or five in n u mbe )

9 50 and 10 0

48

35 and 48 44

\

Providence

9 12

51

10

Fishing.

Astove ....

10 9

47

48

Ditto.

Isle St. Pierre

9 18

50

53

Ditto.

Assumption

9 44

46

34

Ditto.

Aldabra ....

9 22

45

50

Ditto.

1 The Amirautes, seven-
teen in number.

40 51 and 6 15

53

56 and 53 43

f Cocoa-nut
t plantations.

The most important of all the groups is that of the Seychelles.
I have always had a great wish to visit it, but have hitherto
been unable to accomplish it. The few notices of the islands I
have met with are so scanty, that I gladly avail myself of the
permission to use some notes lent me by my good friend the
Hon. Swinbourne Ward, made at the time he was Civil Com-
missioner at Mahe. These notes are very copious, especially on
the natural history of the Seychelles (on which it is not my
intention to touch, except very lightly.) And it is to them I
am indebted for the information now given. The group con-
stituting the Seychelles Archipelago was discovered by the
Portuguese, but not thought worth their occupation. It was
taken possession of by the French in 1742, and it was named

Ch. XXV.] SEYCHELLES. 425

Les Isles des Labourdonnais ; but later the name was changed
to that of Seychelles, after Viscount Herault de Seychelles. In
1792 they were captured by the British man-of-war ' Orpheus,'
under Captain Newcombe. The French commandant capitu-
lated, and was allowed to retire with the honours of war. How-
ever, as Captain Newcombe could not remain to take possession,
he requested the French officer to continue his governorship
under the British flag. This curious arrangement actually took
place, and lasted for some years. The French still kept a sort
of hold there, and it was not till the peace in 1814 that the
Seychelles was definitely ceded to Britain.

Shortly after this period these islands attained a high degree
of prosperity. Large quantities of cotton were grown of the
finest quality, and many fortunes were made. A great change
however took place in 1827, when America began to fill the
European markets with her cotton; prices lowered, and the
trade gradually dwindled away.

Mahe, the principal of the group, named after Labourdonnais,
is about seventeen miles long. Only the littoral, and a portion of
the south of the Island, are available for pm'poses of agriculture ;
the rest being a series of lofty mountains, of granite formation,
the ' Morne Blanc ' rising to the height of 2,000 feet. In the
interstices of the enormous granite boulders and on the plateaux
grow fine timber trees.

The town of Port Victoria overlooks a fine harbour, extending
four miles each way, enclosed on all sides but the north by a
chain of small islets, forming a natural breakwater. The
harbour will contain at least 300 vessels, but on account of the
vast coral beds, and numerous reefs, it is a difficult port to
make. It is impossible to enter it without a pilot at night,
from the intricate and badly marked-out channel.

The temperature of the Seychelles, though they lie so near
the Line, is much cooler than might be expected. The average
mean day temperature is from 80° to 87° Far. ; the night, from
70° to 74°. May is the hottest month. The constant breeze
prevents the heat being oppressive, and it is always healthy,
and blow which way it will, there are no marshes for it to pass
over, and become laden with miasmatic vapours. Either
' Siroc ' or ' Land Wind ' is unknown. Healthy as the climate
is, with epidemics unheard of, the inhabitants are yet subject to

426 . LUXURIOUS ISLANDERS. [Ch. XXV.

some of the direst diseases that afflict the human frame. They
are far from cleanly in their habits and persons, and their princi-
pal meat is pork, and such pork, mostly fed on the garbage of
the streets. The constant use of this most unwholesome food in
a tropical climate poisons the blood, and is the root of many of
the hideous diseases the people suffer from — hydrocele, sarcocele,
elephantiasis, leprosy, &c. It is easy to trace its work — indiges-
tion, dyspepsia, scrofula, leprosy, death !

The inhabitants are mostly mixed races. Some few of pure
French descent remain ; but the great admixture of African blood
has brought African indolence, want of truth, addiction to sensual
pleasures, and an amount of want of energy so great, that such
a rara avis as a hard-working man scarcely exists in the island.

Life is so easy; and their only luxuries being rum and
tobacco, which are so easily produced, no one takes more trouble
than he or she can possibly help. The waters all round the
shore abound with fine fish, captured without any difficulty ;
manioc, their principal food, only requires a piece of the cut
stalk to be placed in the ground, where it grows of itself ; the
juice of the sugar-cane gives them rum, and can be bought at
Is. 6d. a bottle ; and the finest tobacco is grown with little or
no cultivation.

The only item of any financial importance of the present day
is cocoa-nut oil, for which a good market is always found at
Mauritius. In 1862 the value of oil exported was over 10,000^. ;
and if proper machinery were used, instead of the old wooden
mills, a sort of pestle-and-mortar affair, and worked by an ox,
such as has been used from time immemorial in India and
Ceylon, the yield would be double that quantity.

Vacoa bags for sugar are made by the lower class of women.

Tobacco might be exported very largely, and of the best
quality, but no care is taken in its manufacture, which is of the
rudest.

The coasts abound with green turtle, and the hawk's-bill turtle,
from which the tortoise-shell of commerce is procured. The
latter are, however, daily diminishing, and the former will soon
abandon these shores to seek for a more undisturbed retreat to
lay their eggs in. The flesh of the green turtle is used largely
as food, and is, in fact, their beef. Only a very small portion
of the shell can be used, and that merely for the commonest
veneering purposes, yet enormous numbers are killed for that

Ch. XXV.] FISHES. 427

aloDe. In 1862, 600 lbs. of ' cawan,' as it is called, were exported,
and it is calculated 1,800 turtles were sacrificed for it, leaving,
on an average, 490,000 lbs. weight of flesh to rot on the beach.

The Beche de Mer, or Trepang, is very abundant near some of
the islands, and might be made a profitable article of export to
Singapore, also the fins and flukes of sharks. Many kinds of
voracious monsters are common here : — Trygon Uarnak (M.
and H.), the ferocious Hammerhead, Zygcena malleus (Shaw),
the ' Demoiselle,' or Tiger Shark, Stegostoma fasciatumi
(Mull, and Hen. ). The ' L'Endormi,' or Basking Shark, Rhyncho-
batus ancylostomus (Blk.), grows large, but has no teeth, only
a hard long ridge ; is harmless and stupid. The ' Chagrin,' RM-
nodon typicus (Smith), is frequently found fifty feet long. Two
species of sawfish are known to the fishermen — the Pristis
antiquorum and Pristi'phorus drratus. The ' Eay boucle,
Urogymnus asperrimus, and ' Eay Vache,' Aetotatis narinari,
(Mull, and Hen.), are caught near the shores, and easily speared
with the grains of a three-pronged harpoon : a single barbed spear
is not enough to hold them. The Bone Shark, described by
whalemen as often seventy feet long, will yield as much as 500
gallons of oil from its liver. The ' Devil Fish ' is another
monster of these seas, and gives rare sport in its capture ; and
among the giants of the deep must not be forgotten the ' Preda-
tory Whale,' Ginglymostoma brevicaudatum (Gunth).

Smaller fish of hundreds of species are so abundant near
many of the islands, that it is a common saying among the
the fishermen, that ' There's more fish than water.'

Internal Communication, &c., in Mauritius.

There are main roads leading from Port Louis to the i^rin-
cipal places in the Island. Nearly all are macadamised and
kept in order by Grovernment, while those diverging to various
estates are attended to by the owners. Where pains are taken
by the proprietors to improve the appearance of their planta-
tions as well as their profits, the roads through the cane-fields
are bordered with the yetiyert, Anatherwni muricatum (Beauv.),
a pretty fragrant grass, a native of India, from which a fine essence
is extracted. Formerly the roads were made by the soldiers ;
then by Sepoys, convicts from India ; and now by bands of
Indians, mostly prisoners, employed under the supervision of
inspectors.

428 RAILWAYS. [Ch. XXV.

For some years two lines of railway have been in use, and
have wonderfully changed the character of the inland traffic.
They have become invaluable to the colony since the great
influx of people into the country, away from the vitiated air
of Port Louis. They are beginning now to bring in all the
produce of the estates by rail ; and, as the wishes and con-
venience of the majority of the proprietors are being studied
by the Grovernment, it is hoped they will be able to liquidate
very soon some of the heavy debt incurred in the construction.

The North line, opened for traffic in May, 1864, passes the
following stations : — Terre Eouge, Callebasses, Pamplemousses,
Mapou, Poudre d'Or, Eiviere du Eempart, Flacq, Argy, and
Riviere Seche, terminating at Grrand River SE., a distance of
thirty miles from the city. This route has little interest,
beyond the Pamplemousses gardens and village, and the ranges
of hills lying to the right of the road. Nearly the whole is laid
out in cane fields ; and the country is monotonous in the ex-
treme, especially in long protracted dry weather, when the canes
look miserable, and all nature generally lies under a heavy
coating of dust.

The maximum gradient on this line is 1 in 80 feet ; and, at
its highest, only rises to the height of 329 feet above the sea, a
little beyond Pamplemousses. There are fourteen bridges of stone
and iron, with spans varying from twenty-five to eighty feet.

The Midland line is far more interesting. It passes the
stations of Pailles, Coromandel, Petite Riviere, Beau Bassin,
Rose Hill, Quatre Bornes, Phoenix, Vacoas, Curepipe, Cluny,
Rose Belle, Mare d' Albert, and Union Vale, terminating at
Mahebourg, a distance of 35^ miles.

The gradients of this line are very steep, frequently 1 in 27
feet. Just beyond Curepipe the elevation is 1,822 feet above
sea-level. There are 21 bridges. The principal are : — the St.
Louis River bridge, with a single span of 90 feet, 25 feet from
the bed of the river, and the viaduct over Grrand River of 5
spans, 126 feet each, supported on fine pillars, and rising to a
height of 140 feet above the ravine, through which G-rand River
flows. From the time of leaving Port Louis the scenery is
grand on this line, that is, for those with an appreciative eye
for mountain ranges. Their forms change with every turn of
the road, and as you gradually rise to Curepipe the configura-

Ch. XXV.] INLAND COMMUNICATION. 429

tion of the Island is admirably seen. Those magnificent broken
walls of the old-time craters, gigantic barriers of long extin-
guished fires, stand, and most likely will stand while time lasts,
as open books, wherein are clearly recorded the wondrous facts
of other eras. Of all classes, those who seem most to appreciate
the iron roads are the Indians, who use them on every possible
occasion, and on fete days they swarm like bees round every
station. The rates of traffic have been, and indeed still are, very
high ; but the directors have seen fit to make some concessions
to the public of late, and they are already finding their benefit
in it. The planters of Savane are trying to get a branch line
to their district, which produces sugar largely, and it is possible
they may succeed when the railway debt is worked down to
somewhat lesser dimensions.

The inland mails were formerly despatched in mail carts
.daily to the principal places in the Island ; but now a post
office is established at nearly all the stations, a great con-
venience for those in the country. They have not, however,
discovered the advantages of a penny post, for that sum is
required for a newspaper, and twopence for a letter.

A telegraph has been established along the railway lines, but
does not as yet appear to give much satisfaction.

Post-Office and Foreign Telegraph Scheme.

The Greneral Post-Office, as well as all other civil establish-
ments, is in Port Louis. There are letter-boxes disposed in
various parts of the city, and two daily deliveries of letters
take place. The mails for Europe and elsewhere leave once a
month by the steamers of the Messageries Imperiales Company,
at a great cost to the colony. Formerly the service was per-
formed by the steamers of the P. & 0. Company, for which was
paid 36,000L annually. Foreign postage is very high, par-
ticularly via Marseilles ; and freights for packages most
extortionate, ll. per square foot being exacted.

Once a month also arrive the mails, and only those who have
lived in the Colonies can realise the excitement of this one day.
Telescopes are incessantly levelled at the signal mountains in
city and country ; and when the double balls are seen at the
top of the signal mast, the Place d'Armes, quays and docks are

430 TALKEE-TALKEE. [Ch. XXV.

gradually thronged. As soon as the steamer anchors, boats
innumerable put off up the harbour, and only wait the signal
that she has received pratique (that is, shown a good bill of
health), when her decks are at once crowded to get the first
items of news, and welcome the passengers. A rise or fall in
sugar, war or peace news, flies like magic to the shore and
spreads through the city. Then the tedious waiting for letters.
Supposing the mail arrives early morning, it will be at least
two or three o'clock before any letters are delivered, save
Government despatches.

After being accustomed to the constant delivery of mails in
America, I found it very trying to have to wait a whole month
for news ; and such constant changes are made in the departure of
mails, that often when our solitary one arrives, the chances are
half our letters do not come, our friends not being at once aware
of the change of date. When the colony was more prosperous
there was a second mail per month, via Aden, and one by the
United States Ship Company, via the Cape. But these are of
the things that were, and I doubt will be long ere they are
again.

There has been much talk of a marine telegraph to connect
Mauritius with India and Australia, and proposals have been
talked over with both the Cape and India, but no result hitherto ;
the finances of the colony not allowing of the necessary ex-
penditure. Mauritius must, I suppose, in the ordinary course
of things, be one day included in the ' Grirdle round the world,'
but he would be a rash man who predicted when such an event
would take place. It took about sixteen or eighteen years for
gas to be talked over before it became an accomplished fact. I
believe the Mauritians beat the Yankees out and out in talk.
They have been talking of sanitary measures for Port Louis for
twenty years, and yet its gutters still give forth the foulest
stenches.

Hackney Coaches^ &c.

Port Louis has a supply of vehicles for hire always ready on
the Place d'Armes, and at several livery stables. The owners
are obliged to have a tariff of charges posted up in their car-
riages (as they are called) and carrioles. The ordinary fare of the
former for a single person is one shilling, and half price for a

Ch. XXV.] DEFENCES. 431

second to any place within the city limits, and two shillings for
the longer distances, as prescribed by law. They may, how-
ever, be hired for a dollar the hour for three or four passengers.
Almost all have been private carriages, too shabby for their
owners, sold cheaply and furbished up a little for the stand.
Formerly, these carriages were the only means of transport to
the country, when the proprietor could make his own bargain,
as he can now for that matter, anywhere beyond the prescribed
limits. Of course there is but little call for hired carriages into
the country since the establishment of railways, but incessant
and regular traffic to and from the central station in Port
Louis, especially on a rainy day, must nearly be an equivalent
for the loss.

The carrioles are two-wheeled vehicles, most miserable shaky
affairs, with no steps, and only a seat behind the driver, but in
great request with Indians ; the Chinamen, however, principally
affect the carriages.

Defences : Military^ Naval, and Police,

The position of Mauritius and its possession of so fine a ha'r-
bour, docks, &c., have always rendered it of great importance to
its government, giving it the command of the Indian Seas.
With it France kept her footing in the waters, and was enabled
to do infinite mischief to the Indian commerce of all other
nations — a power lost to her for ever since the conquest of their
Isle de France. England ruled this ocean for years after she
became mistress of the Island, and it was literally a ' Half-way
house ' to all outward or homeward bound vessels to and from
the East. It was strongly fortified, and could, if well defended,
have defied its enemies. Forts George and William protect the
harbom'. Fort Adelaide commands the city ; Mahebourg has a
battery ; there are military posts at Black River, Flacq, Grrand
Rivers NW. and SE., and many others now given up to the
police. All this sounds well, but with the appliances and
material of modern warfare, Mamitius would be ' knocked into a
cocked hat ' in no time.

Two regiments of the line, and detachments from the Royal
Artillery and Engineers, were regularly stationed here, making
a total force of 2,000 men. Now it is not considered necessary
to keep more than a single battalion, with a few artillery and

432 DOCKS AND POLICE. [Ch. XXV.

engineers. This is a great relief to the heavily taxed colony,
which had to pay 45,000^. annually as its quota towards the
military establishment.

Many causes have concurred to place Mauritius in a far dif-
ferent position from that it formerly enjoyed. The prevalence
of steamers over sailing vessels, preventing the necessity for
constantly calling here for water and provisions ; the opening
of the Suez Canal, giving a nearer route to the East than the
long voyage round the Cape ; the terrible reverses of the colony,
compelling them to relinquish direct communication with India
and the Cape, except by the single monthly mail ; all have had
a telling effect on the Island. Besides these outward influences,
there are many internal ones which have a powerful tendency to
assist in her depreciation.

The whole system of the customs, port dues, and in fact all
connected with the shipping, is calculated to prevent foreign
ships entering. No appeals are of any effect to get fair and
liberal arrangements, and the decline in the shipping tells its
own tale. Formerly, nearly all our large fleet of whalemen put
in here, and left an enormous sum annually for supplies. They
have, however, been charged such exorbitant rates for every-
thing, from money downwards, and such heavy fees for custom
and port duties, that they are nearly all leaving for Bourbon
and the Cape. These places welcome them gladly, and give
them fair and reasonable accommodation. The docks erected at
such expense, where every repair a vessel needs can be done, yet
lie idle two-thirds of the time, vessels fearing to come here on
account of the extravagant charges for the smallest repairs.
The Cape Town Docks will cut out the Mauritius ones, on ac-
count of their liberal terms, and the greater expedition of the
work.

The police force has increased greatly of late years, and is
taking the place of the military. They are in a fair state of
discipline, considering the heterogeneous, and difficult to deal
with, classes it is composed of — runaway sailors, discharged
whalemen, seedy clerks, loafers of all nations, and men of all
colours and races.

They are under an inspector-general Cof late years always a
military officer), a superintendent, and adjutant ; and they have
a large staff of inspectors, sergeants, and corporals, besides the

Ch. XXV.] MONEY MATTERS. 433

numerous body of constables. The cost to the colony yearly for
police, prisons, &c., is nearly 70,000^.

The naval defence of these seas consists of seven of H. B. M.'s
men-of-war, with their head-quarters at the Cape, and others
called the Western African Division. It is rarely that any one of
these vessels visits Mauritius, but they can easily be brought if
required.

Money ^ Weights and Measures, &c.

The coinage in use in ordinary transactions is chiefly decimal.
All persons in business use dollars and centiemes ; the dollar, a
fictitious coin of 100 centiemes, passing for 4s. ordinarily, but
in reality only worth 95 cents. Then all English coins pass :
the rupee 2s. or 50 cents, half a crown 2s. 6d. or 62J cents,
shilling or 25 cents, sixpence or 12^ cents, with threepenny
and fourpenny pieces, pennies 2 cents, or a gros cash, half-
pennies, centiemes or cash ; silver 3 cent pieces or 6 sous, far-
things or sous, and a 3-farthing or 3 sous. The French francs, 20
cents, and half francs 10 cents, were in constant use till lately,
but are not now legal tender. Besides these, the livre, also 10
cents, though only a nominal coin, was in great vogue, and the
Creoles still use it. Such an amount of coins in circulation, and
their various names, make a curious jumble, and it gives a
stranger no end of worry, time and trouble, before he can be-
come familiar with them. The Indians are not nearly such
ready reckoners as the Creoles. They know little of the decimal
parts of the various coins. They would not understand 93
centiemes, but tell them a thing costs a dollar less 7 cents, and
they are all right. They have certain standpoints, but they
are mostly taken from livres ; thus, 3 livres 10 sous or 35 cents,
7 livres 10 sous or 75 cents, 6 livres 5 sous or 62^ cents, and so
on, and any between sums you must count as so many cash, less
or more than one of these standpoints. They know all English
coins well enough, and their English names too, and never fail
to take advantage of your lack of knowledge in cashes. The
3 sous or marquee is invaluable in the petty dealings with the
Chinamen, and it is curious to see how many things are sold
by a 3-sous worth. It is a queer thin flat coin, with the fleur-
de-lis of France on one side, and a palm tree on the reverse,
with a motto showing its destination was the Isle of France and

434

COINAGE.

[Ch. XXV.

Bourbon. I have some dated 17V5 still in good preservation.
It appears to have been a universal coin in the old slave times,
and is a favourite way of calculating amongst the older Creoles ;
thus, 25 marquees are 37 J cents or Is. 6(i., 16 for a shilling, 8
for sixpence, and so on ; and all the cake-sellers (who are Legion)
always vend their wares by 3 sous or 6 sous.

In Grovernment offices, English pounds shillings and pence
are the legal tender ; other coins are used, and the following
table will show their value. ^

£

s.

d.

3

4

0

1

9

2

0

15

10

0 1 10

0 4 2

Gold.

Doubloon of Spain, Mexico, or the States
of South America . . . . •

Gold mohur of the East India Company,]
coined since September 1, 1835 . . J

Twenty- franc piece of France .

Silver.

Rupee of East India Company Territory,)
coined since September 1, 1835 . • j

Dollar of Spain, Mexico and States of]
South America . . . . . )

Five, two, and one franc pieces of France ;■"
five francs of EngHsli Colonial money
coined at the Royal Mint, of the same
weight and fineness of Spanish dollar

Dollar

Half dollar

Quarter dollar .

Eighth dollar .

Sixteenth dollar

Dollar Decaen .

Token

The following are the weights and measures in general use
in the colony : —

In the transactions with the Military Commissariat Depart-
ment, imperial weights are used ; in other transactions they
are the same as those in France before the introduction of the
metrical system in 1799, viz. : —

0

3

lOi

0

4

4

0

2

2

0

1

1

0

0

6i

0

0

3i

0

4

0

0

0

8

See Blue Book for 1869.

Ch. XXV.] WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 435

100 lbs. French, Folds de marc, equal to 108 lbs. English,
and the same proportions in the subdivisions, which are the
ounce, gros, and grains.

16 ounces make one pound
8 gros „ „ ounce
72 grains „ „ gros.

The Quintal is 100 lbs. French.

The Ton 20 quintals.

Sugar is reckoned per pound or per quintal.

Coffee per bag or 100 lbs. nett French.

Cotton per bale or 250 lbs.

Eice is sold per bag of 150 lbs.

Measures.-^ln military transactions only imperial measures
are used, but those for other purposes are French.

The French foot is to the English in the proportion of 100
to 92*89, or in common practice as 16 to 15.

12 lines make one inch
12 inches „ „ foot

6 feet „ „ toise

5 feet „ „ fathom.

The Aune is forty-four inches, and is to the English yard as
nine to seven ; every kind of cloth is measured and sold in this
Island by the aune or ell.

The Velte is equal to one gallon, seven pints 4-5 English, but
is always taken as two gallons. One gallon = 0*608915 veltes,
5 gallons = 3 veltes.

In commercial transactions it is by the velte that every liquid

is measured.

3 gills)

. r make one pint

2 pints „ „ quart

3 quarts „ „ gallon
2 gallons „ „ velte.

Nine English quart-l)ottles are generally considered equal to
a velte and 40 drams to a gallon.
A cask measures 30 veltes.
The ton of sugar 2,000 lbs. French

,, coffee 1,400 „ „

„ ebony wood 2,000 lbs. French.

436 MEASURES. [Ch. XXV.

The ton of cotton 750 lbs. French.

„ cloves 1,000 „ „

„ grain 2,000 lbs. or 13 bags of 150 lbs.

„ liquids 120 veltes.

„ square cut timber 32 cubic feet.

^, boards 386 feet.

„ shingles 3,000 in number.
The arpent or acre is 100 square perches.
The perch is 20 feet French.
The tonnage of cases is 42 cubic feet measurement.

These are all the legal weights and measures as published in
the G-overnment Blue Books.

' Thus the limit of "mass is the French pound. ^ The unit
of length is the toise, of 6 feet. The toise of Perou^ made in
Paris, 1735, by Langlois, under the direction of Grodin, is a
bar of iron which has its standard length at the temperature of
13° Eeaumur. It is l^nown as the toise of Perou because it
was used by the French Academicians, Bougner and La Con-
damine, in their measurement of an arc of the meridian in

Peru.

' The unit of area for land is the arpent of 40,000 French or
45 434 English feet ; i.e. add 4J per cent, to convert arpents
into English acres.

' Water from canals is estimated by the prise, or quantity that
issues from a circular orifice of specified diameter and immer-
sion, equal to 5 gallons English per minute.

' The force of gravity has been determined for Mauritius ex-
perimentally by Freycinnet and Duperez, using the second for
the unit of time, and the English foot for the unit of space, and
the mean value obtained in absolute units was 32-115; the
calculated value.

' Claraut's formula is 32*108 for sea-level, and 32*102 for
2,000 feet altitude. It may be noted the value for Greenwich
is 32,191, whence, in a comparison of the mercurial barometer
with G-reenwich or Masses by spring balances, a small correction
becomes necessary.

' The range of the tide has never been very accurately deter-
mined for this Island ; but approximately it may be taken at

' See Mauritius Almanack for 1870 — article by M. Connal, Esq. C.E.

Ch. XXV.] BANKS. 437

2 feet for spring tide, and the complement of the Port at one
horn-.'

It would appear that the British Grovernment, after the con-
quest of the Island, to conciliate the French inhabitants, left
them the greater part of their laws as well as their language ; and
in over sixty years little change has been made, which renders it
very difficult for Englishmen and foreigners to become con-
versant with the intricacies of the laws and commercial regu-
lations. Instead of a thorough knowledge of English being
the absolute necessity for the English colony of Mauritius, it is
imperative on anyone hoping to succeed to have the French
language at his finger ends, or at least the French spoken here,
which is far from being Parisian.^

Banks^ Credit Fonder, &c.

There are three banks established, the Commercial Bank, the
oldest here, a branch of the Chartered Mercantile Bank of India,
London and China, and the Oriental Bank Corporation. The
latter owns a fine property in the Chaussee, where a large staff
of clerks find constant employment. The building is commo-
dious and handsomely furnished. The clerks are, most of them,
sent from England, and the continuation of their appointments
rests on their good behavioiu: : they receive large salaries, and
are most of them young gentlemen of good education. They
keep up their English proclivities by their hospitable entertain-
ments ; and once a year they give a select dancing party, at which
the Governor and his lady attend.

A large business is carried on by this bank, and a good deal
of accommodation is allowed to planters ; but as a rule their
rates of interest are higher than those of the other two banks.

The Credit Foncier of Mauritius, Limited, and a branch of

1 I beg leave to quote the words of a friend (an Englishman) which appear to
me particularly appropriate to this subject.

' One great mistake we have always made in our colonies and conquests. Few
or no attempts have been tried to introduce our language, habits, and laws, and
unless acquainted with all these, it is impossible a stranger can perfectly compre-
hend our character. They appreciate the justice of laws, and fairness of our rule
over that of many other nations, and yet we have taken little pains to enforce them.
It would be a hard matter now to substitute English laws, as the French system is
far more lucrative for the swarms of lawyers who crowd every court of justice in
the Island.'

Hh

438 INDUSTRIES. [Ch. XXV.

the Ceylon Company, Limited, are both in a flourishing condi-
tion. These have for their object to make advances to the
planters for the efficient working of their estates.

There are no less than nineteen Insurance offices ; four local,
the rest agencies for European and Australian Companies.

Chambers of Commerce and Agriculture,

Everything in the Island connected with its commercial and
agricultm'al affairs is regulated by the Chambers of Commerce
and Agriculture. The members of both are chosen from the
leading men of the colony, and are frequently called upon as
arbitrators in difficult cases in which the above interests are
concerned. Their endeavours are also directed towards the
advancement of any industry available for the colony.

The Various Industries of Mauritius.

Of course, pre-eminent stands the culture of sugar, which
is carried to great perfection ; and the distilling of rum from
the dregs of the sugar is next in importance. There are no less
than 255 sugar estates, all in work, and 41 distilleries, the
latter yielding nearly 500,000 gallons annually, and the former
averaging between two and three million pounds a year.

With the increase of sugar estates in cultivation has grown
a corresponding increase in mechanical trades. Blacksmiths,
coopers, wheelwrights, saddlers, workers in machinery, are
numerous. Carpenters and stonemasons are in constant request ;
all kinds of buildings requiring incessant attention to repairs,
from the destructive action of the climate upon woodwork, and
the inferior quality of the lime used for mortar rendering even
stonework perishable, to say nothing of the ever-encroaching
caries, wherever damp enters. Yet, in spite of this, house-
owners appear to possess all the laissez-aller of the Island ; for
it is not uncommon to see a fine building in a most dilapidated
condition before its proprietor thinks it worth his while to
repair it, and then most probably it has to be half pulled to
pieces to get out all the caries-eaten wood.

During the hurricane season large numbers of workmen
obtain employment in the docks ; and at such seasons, and when
the sugar crop is ready for shipping, all trades flourish that are
connected with the marine.

Ch. XXV.] COMMERCE. 439

Jewellers' shops abound, from the grand establishment in the
Chaussee, where you may gratify yoiu taste in French gold and
jewels, and lighten your pocket of fabulous sums, to the little
rooms, a few feet square, where an Indian works all day mending
trinkets for his countrywomen, or boring lioles in gold and
silver coins, for necklaces for these same jewel-loving dames.
Very often when the possessor is hard up, these holes are filled
with some base metal, and the coins passed at the boutiques. So
great indeed was the trade in them, that it was taken in hand
by the police, and it is now illegal to pass any coin that has been
bored. They are, however, so cunningly wrought that you have
to look out sharply when you take change from Creole, Chinaman,
or Indian, and, even then, the chances are that yovJre done.

Provision shops seem to be the most numerous of any in the
Island : whole streets are lined with them. Some stored with
delicacies from France and England ; but hundreds of them so
dingy and dirty, that one wonders how anyone could be tempted
to eat anything out of them, eyes and nose being equally dis-
gusted.

In numbers of the stores yon may purchase a vast diversity
of articles ; for instance, in your ironmonger's you may order a
ream of writing paper with yom- saucepans, and seeds for your
garden with the spade to dig it.

Foreign Commerce.

The Foreign Commerce of Mauritius extends to every quarter
of the globe. Ships showing the flags of all nations may be
seen during the year in the harbom* of Port Louis.

Sugar and rum being the only staple articles of export, every-
thing for the general wants of the inhabitants must be imported.
It is curious to read the lists of imported articles supposed to
be requisites for general need. The most in«)ngruous possible,
or would be so, but for the strangely mixed population. The
imports appear to be very large for so small a place ; but it
serves now as an entrepot for Madagascar, and the Dependencies
are supplied from it. In one year the value of these imports
amounted to 12,190,000 dollars.

The principal countries from which they are derived are :
Great Britain, India, Australia, France, the Cape, Madagascar,

440 TRADE ITEMS. [Ch. XXV.

Peru, Pondicherry, Singapore, Eeunion, United States, Ceylon,
the Dependencies, &c.

The following items will show the extent of trade carried on
when the colony is flourishing during a single year : —

10,980 oxen; 220 horses; 1,194 mules; 73,000 gunny bags
and 47,500 vacoa bags, for sugar ; 864,000 bricks and tiles ; 118
carriages; 19,000 tons of coal ; 75,000 cwts. of dhoU ; 171,000
cwts. of grain ; 1,109,603 cwts. of rice ; 38,800 qrs. wheat ;
29,459 cwts. of flom* ; cotton goods to the value of 500,000^. ;
215,893 pieces of glassware; 20,926 looking-glasses; haber-
dashery and millinery valued at 56,280^. ; hardware and cutlery,
91,624^.; 420 tons of ice; 1,744 cwts. of leather; and 178,599
boots and shoes ; machinery to the value of 25,500^. ; 5,691 cwts.
potatoes ; 14,000 yards of silk ; 56,000 gallons of brandy ;
26,713 lbs. of tea; 986,898 lbs. of manufactured tobacco:
25,143 hhds. and 25,271 dozens of wine, &c. &c. These are
only a very small portion of the imports, but they will give a
fair idea of their range.

Since the fever, a change has taken place in the imports of
articles of luxury, which are greatly reduced ; though recovering
from the effects of the epidemic, the failure of the crops for
several years, in comparison with the expectations, has caused
a general decadence in all commercial affairs. Fewer ships are
needed to convey the sugar, and less goods can be imported ;
business of all kinds suffers, everything connected with the
marine is stagnant, and universal complaints are heard, and not
without cause. It is difficult to surmise at the present time
what can give new life to the colony, except very heavy crops,
and they will soon be subject to such competition from other
countries, that new industries must be found, if Mauritius is
ever to make head against her commercial embarrassments.

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE GOVERNMENT OF MAURITIUS AND ITS VARIOUS ESTABLISH-
MENTS, WITH THE DIFFERENT RELIGIONS IN THE COLONY.

The Chief Officers of the Government — The various Departments — Savings' Bank
— Episcopal Church of Port Louis — Other Protestant Churches in the Colonj —
Roman Catholic Sacred Edifices — Convents — Mohammedan Mosque — Its Wor-
ship— East and Feast— Catholic Fete-Dieu — Procession — Raising the Host, &c.

Like all the British Colonies, Mauritius is under the control
of the Secretary of State for the Colonies, who appoints a
Grovernor, subject to Her Majesty's approval, and is assisted
by a Legislative Council.

The official members are : —

His Excellency the Governor, the officer commanding the
troops, the Colonial Secretary, the Procureur and Advocate-
Greneral, the Colonial Treasurer, the Auditor-General, the Col-
lector of Internal Revenues, and the Collector of Customs. The
four first named constitute the Executive Council.

The ten non-official members are selected by the Governor,
nominated for life, but subject to the Queen's approval.

The laws passed by the Council are called ' Ordinances,' and
discussions, amendments, and additions accompany every Act.

From a mixture of the English and French laws being in
iise, the government is a very complex affair. Most of the
laws of the Code Napoleon are still in force, though now greatly
modified.

I will enumerate the various departments, wliich will show
what intricate machinery has to be daily set going and kept in
working order to carry on the government of this speck in the
ocean : —

The Council Office, Colonial Secretary's Office, the Treasury,

442 GOVERNMENT, [Ch. XXVI.

Savings' Bank and Audit Office, Survey or General Department,
Botanical Grardens, Observatory, Museum, Civil Status, Customs,
Port Department, Internal Eevenue, Eegistration and Mortgage
Departments, Post Office, Supreme Coiurt, Procureur and Advo-
cate-General's Office, Vice- Admiralty Court.

District magistracy, senior and junior magistrates of Port
Louis, stipendiary magistrates for Pamplemousses, Eiviere du
Rempart, Grand Port, and Plaines Wilhelms. Police force and
gaols.

District and stipendiary magistracy for Flacq, Savane, Black
River and Moka.

Churches of England and Scotland.

Roman Catholic clergy.

Royal College Government schools. Orphan Asylum,

Medical department. Quarantine establishment.

General Board of Health.

Commissariat and Stamp office.

Land Cornet and Archives.

Railway construction and working department.

Poor Law Commission, and Immigrant department, Crown
agents, and the affairs of Seychelles and Rodrigues.

No wonder the sum of 800,000^. or 900,000^. per annum is
demanded. The Governor alone of this little Island receives
nearly 7,000^., while the President of the United States only has
25,000 dollars, and all other Government officers are paid in
proportion.

In a work like this it would be out of place to enter into a
detail of the functions of all the above establishments, which
would demand volumes to perform satisfactorily, and write of
all their uses, and a considerable amount of abuses in many
of them. I will merely mention the Savings' Bank, which is
beginning to play an important part with the Indian popula-
tion. It was long before they could be brought to trust their
earnings out of their own hands. They are excessively sus-
picious, and the slightest circumstance is sufficient to induce
them to withdraw their money. A very little would destroy
their confidence, and cause a run on the bank. However, by
convincing them that they can draw out their money at any
time, they are, by degrees, changing from a most improvident
to a thrifty race. It is but fair to say they distrust each other

Ch. XXVL] religion. 443

equally, if not more so, than they do the whites. It is curious
to see how readily they avail themselves of the stamped papers,
lately made obligatory for all receipts, in their transactions with
each other.

In most of the departments the heads are chosen from English,
either here or sent from England. Grreat numbers of Creoler
are employed, but almost all in subordinate offices.

The different Forms of Religious Worship, with the principal
Sacred Edifices in the Island.

The Episcopal Church is represented by a Bishop, under the
title of ' Lord Bishop of Mauritius and its Dependencies ' (his
diocese extending to the Seychelles Islands), civil and military
chaplains ; several English clergymen ; two native ones for the
Tamul and Bengalee chmxhes, and one for the mariners.

The principal building for the use of the Established Church is
St. James's Cathedral before mentioned. It was erected, in 1741,
for a powder magazine, with walls from eight feet to ten feet
thick, a dome-shaped roof, bomb proof, and slits for its only
openings. When the British took Mauritius, this ungainly
building being no longer required for its original purpose, it
was proposed to use it for a Protestant Church. (Would to God
that every powder magazine in the whole world could be con-
verted thus !) Square windows were let into the walls, and in
1828 the dome was changed for a new roof, and the present
steeple and porticoes were added.

In 1846 the congregation had so increased that two wings
were built on, giving it the form of a cross, and an organ gal-
lery was raised. The pews are all of teak wood, and the Com-
munion window is of stained glass, presented by one of the
church members. Marble in-Tnemoriam slabs cover the walls ;
and a handsome Gothic monument adorns the chancel, raised to
the memory of the Eev. Mr. Banks, who lost his life through
his untiring zeal in behalf of the sufferers by the cholera of
1854.

The groimds round the Cathedral are enclosed by a high iron
railing, and the avenues to the different entrances are shaded
by fine Banyan, and the lovely Bauhinia, and Flamboyant trees.

There are three full services here every Sunday, two in Englisli

444 SCHOOLS. [Ch. XXVI.

and one in French, besides one in the early morning for the mili-
tary when the troops are in Port Louis.

On Wednesday evenings service is also held, but the atten-
dance is very poor since so many English have left the city.
There is a school-room attached, but no school has been
held there since the time of Bishop Eyan : it is now, however,
used for the congregation of St. Mary's, while that chm'ch is
being rebuilt.

At Failles, Pamplemousses, Moka, Grrand Port, Vacoa, and
Plaines Wilhelms are chm'ches, besides temporary ones in vari-
ous parts of the Island. The Church Missionary and London
Societies have been working since 1814, principally among the
Indian population.

There are Tamul schools for religious instruction in various
places. At Creve-Coeur there is the principal mission school,
where the children are also taught all kinds of useful work.
The Eev. Mr. Hobbs and his wife are most energetic in their
endeavoiu-s to spread the light of Christianity in the dense dark-
ness of superstition and idolatry still surrounding thousands of
the population in Mauritius ; and though their progress is slow,
it will surely do much eventually in changing the moral condi-
tion of the Indian races.

In Poudriere Street is a chapel for the Independents, for many
years under the chai'ge of the Eev. Mr. Le Brun, and now in
his son's hands. Grreat good has been done among the Creole
population (of whom there is a large congregation on Sundays
and week evenings) from their system of house to house visiting.

The Wesleyans have lately appeared in the field. A minister
was sent here about two years ago, and it is said that he
made a great many converts among the soldiers : be that as it
may, I believe he has already left the colony, and has not been
replaced. They have no chapel.

The only church for the Presbyterian form of worship is well
attended.

There is a small number of members of the New Church ; but
they have no public building for divine service, so for the present
they meet at the house of Mr. de Chazal.

The Eoman Catholic religion is certainly the prevailing- one,
and is coeval with the settlement of the French in the Island.
It is presided over by a Bishop, who is called ' the Bishop of Port

Ch. XXVI.] ROMAN CATHOLICS. 445

Louis,' and a large staff of priests. The Catholics, however, like
the Protestants, are at this moment without a head. They
have seventeen churches and about thirty-two chapels in the
different districts.

Their principal building, the Cathedral of Port Louis, is in
Government Street, standing in a square shaded by old trees,
and its western facade has a distant resemblance to that of
Notre Dame in Paris. In front is a fountain, with a large cross
near it about ten or twelve feet high. This, on certain days, is
hung over with garlands of flowers, and bouquets are placed at
its foot in such quantities that I have seen it almost bmied
beneath them. The Cathedral has the best clock in the city,
and its deep tones may be heard nearly to its limits. On the
roof are two very unsacerdotal ornaments, two small cannons,
that used to be fired on the day of the Fete-Dieu, at the moment
the Host is raised on the Champ de Mars. The inside is very
plain, the whitewashed walls are covered with a series of
paintings representing the various scenes of our Saviour's
sufferings previous to His crucifixion. There is a fine altar-
piece, and the usual display of golden candlesticks, statues of
the Virgin and Saints, and the ordinary paraphernalia of the
altar, interspersed with large vases filled with artificial flowers,
all votive offerings.

In the month of May, or ' Mois de Marie,' the altar and walls
are profusely decorated, at a great expense, with flowers made
by the ladies of the congregation, under the superintendence of
the Dames de St. Paul.

There are Catholic chapels in all the villages ; but the only
other in the city is that of the ' Immaculee Conception,' in St.
George's Street, a temporary building, in wood, far more elegantly
decorated than the Cathedral. This is used pending the erection
of a fine edifice in stone, which will be the chef-d'oeuvre of the
city when completed. I fear this generation will not enjoy its
beauty, as it is over twelve years since its foundation-stone was
laid, and, except a part of the clock tower, the walls are only
about ten or twelve feet high.

There are two Convents, one in Eempart, and the other in
Bourbon Street. The former is occupied by the Soeurs de Cha-
rite, who devote the greatest part of their time to the care of
the sick. They have an hosjDital adjoining the convent, where

446 THE MOSQUE. [Ch. XXVI.

many a poor wretch, sick unto death with cholera or fever, has
blessed their pious cares and gently tending.

At the Convent of Loretto is a school where numbers of young
ladies are educated, or sent for the seclusion necessary for the
preparation attendant on their first communion. Behind the
Cathedral of Port Louis is the Eoman Catholic Bishop's residence ;
Palace it is called, but realises little of one's ideas of a palatial
house, entirely sm:rounded by an upper and lower verandah,
doubtless rendering it very cool in the heat of summer.

In Eoyal Street stands the Mohammedan Mosque, conspicuous
from its white dome and minarets. When completed it will be
a fine structure ; the small part within that is finished is very
handsome, with its tessellated pavement and carved pillars. In
the court is a fountain of deliciously cool water, to which descend
a flight of steps, where the faithful wash their feet, and lea\ ■
their slippers before entering the sacred precincts. The whole
of the front is a mere shell at present, and a wooden partition
screens it from the street, outside of which are little shops of a
few feet square lighted up at night, where may be bought cakes,
cigars and Turkish slippers, and a barber plies his trade.

This mosque has been already twenty years in building, and
it is expected to take ten more before it is completed. The
expenses are defrayed by the Arabs and Lascars of the Moham-
medan persuasion, and a large fund is yearly raised by an impost
of a halfpenny on every bag of rice sold to them. All the stone,
lime, and wood are sent from Bombay, and the workmen are
nearly all from Calcutta. During the time they are at work,
they remain together in the mosque, sleeping and eating vmder
the pillared arches of the outer com^t.

Every evening the priest calls to the faithful from the
minareted roof to come to prayers, and after gun-fire, or 8
o'clock P.M., they begin to pour in.

In the centre of the court is a Badamia tree ; and as you stand
under it on a clear night, myriads of stars glittering over head,
it is not difficult to fancy yourself transported to some Oriental
land, where Allah alone is worshipped. The recess where prayers
are read is resplendent with the brilliant light from the large
chandeliers ; the tall white-robed Ai*abs, after their ablutions, lay
aside their belts and upper coats that the free motion of the
body may not be impeded dm'ing their numerous genuflexions ;

Ch. XXVI.] FEfE-DIEU. 447

and you gaze wonderingly as they keep up an incessant bowing
with their foreheads to the ground and rising up to their lull
height, muttering monotonous responses to the prayers. It
appears like a dream as you watch them, and but for the quiet
earnestness of their manner, showing their thorough belief in
what they are about, it would provoke a smile.

Diu-ing the daytime they will allow a heretic to enter and
examine the place, but in the evening admission is only given
to certain limits. They will, however, answer any questions
with a politeness which puts to shame the brusquerie of English
pew-openers.

The 15th of January is the new year of the Mohammedans,
and for forty days previously a fast is held, called ' Eid,' during
which time food is only allowed to be taken in the evening after
sunset. It terminates on this day ; and after morning prayers a
feast is given in the mosque to all the poor, halt, and blind of
their persuasion, who have seats placed for them, and after a
hearty breakfast each has a piece of money given him. Every
attendant at prayers on the loth and the preceding day is
expected to take some present, either rice, fruit, or money, which
is all scrupulously devoted to the feast of the poor.

There is a small mosque at Plaine Vert, for the Lascars, who
appear to follow a spurious kind of Mohammedanism.

While on the subject of the various forms of religious worship
exercised in Port Louis, it may not be out of place to give a
short description of how the principal fete of the Eoman
Catholics is carried out in Mauritius — the Fete-Dieu.

The Fete-Dieu.

The very words will recall the imposing ceremonies in the
imperial city — its interminable processions displaying all the
pomp of papacy.

But, alas, tvhat a falling off is here ! However small an affair
it is to those accustomed to the religious fete days of Italy and
Spain, it is a grand day for Port Louis.

From earliest morn the bells of the Cathedral and Church of
the Immaculee Coiiception ring out loudly to call all devout
Catholics to the services of the day. It is a general holiday ;
all public offices are closed, and few women servants are supposed
to be in attendance on that occasion.

448 A FETE. [Ch. XXVI.

For weeks previously a special toilette is in course of prepara-
tion ; many a poor family could speak of scant dinners that
all may shine resplendently in new costumes at the Fete-Dieu.

Towards noon crowds pour up the different thoroughfares to
the Cathedral, which is decked outside with greenery, and the
large cross facing it hung with garlands, and the steps to it
covered with bouquets.

Eows of palm and cocoa-nut leaves are carried up Govern-
ment Street, and continued to the top of the Champ de Mars,
where an altar is erected under a sort of arbour.

The police keep the way clear from carriages, and after con-
siderable trouble the procession begins.

Files of women of every shade, from tawny to black, crowned
with wreaths of roses, or white veils, or both (contrasting
curiously with their dark skins), proceed leisurely up the street \
delicate fair girls, dressed in the prettiest costumes, veiled,
booted, all in pure white, but in a shower of ribbons and flowers
that flutter down from the silken embroidered banners they
bear.

Very small fairies, aptly termed ' Les Anges,' trip along,
carrying baskets of flowers, and they also wear dainty white
satin shoes. I was told that only a few years ago a number of
little children, chosen from the best families, were always present,
dressed in a white gauzy texture with wings, and their pretty
little feet bare. Heat and fatigue and often a heavy shower
wetting them through caused such severe illnesses that generally
one or more fell victims to the cruel practice, so it has happily
been abandoned.

The children of the different Catholic girls' schools are there
in great force with their teachers, all in white ; but each 'pension
has its own peculiar colour for ribbons, trimming, &c. Very
demure the older girls look, and the little ones try to imitate
them ; but it is a failure, their little sparkling eyes betraying
their enjoyment of the scene, and that only the severe looks of
Madame or Mademoiselle restrain the pretty little romps in
order, or the sharp but subdued ' Attention, Mesdemoiselles ! '
heard along the line.

The boys' schools muster also, dressed in their best.

All the nuns and priests of Port Louis, the Catholic soldiers
of the different regiments, the {soi-disant) converted ]Malabars,
and crowds of spectators fill up the procession.

Ch. XXVI.] CATHOLIC CEREMONIES. 449

In the centre, under a heavy gold embroidered canopy, sup-
ported by four gentlemen, walks Monseigneur, bearing the
sacred burden with uplifted hands.

The present Bishop ^ is a fine handsome man, and he needs to
be a strong one to support the weight of velvet, satin fringes,
and tassels he wears, and the heat and fatigue of the procession.

Little boys, in flowing garments, hover round him swinging
censers that send forth clouds of incense at intervals. The band
of the regiment is in attendance, and plays the most solemn
music ; and as they cease, the strains are caught up by the
priests, and an especial service is chanted nearly the whole way,
occasionally joined in by everyone.

Slowly they reach the altar at the head of the Champ de
Mars ; file after file passes, humbly saluting the raised Cross, and
they descend the avenue of palm-leaves in the centre.

By the time Monseigneur arrives at the altar the vast plain
is filled with spectators, mostly on foot. As soon as the Bishop
prostrates himself before the Cross, a suppressed murmur sweeps
through the crowd announcing the fact ; a sudden halt
takes place, and down on their knees go the whole assembled
multitude.

Silence the most profound reig-ns, as Monseigneur kisses and
holds up the Host. TmTiing to face the crowd, he appeared to
be pronouncing a blessing, but, of course, too indistinct to be
heard far off. Every male head is uncovered, imless a few
not of this faith should be there, and they are instantly con-
spicuous by the erect posture and hatted head.

After kneeling some time, they rise with a triumphant song
of praise that resounds to the farthest limits of the Champ de
Mars.

All return down the central avenue to the Cathedral, and
often the ceremony is not over till quite dark.

It not unfrequently happens that a smart shower overtakes
them when high up on the plain, and then they return home
with draggled dresses and drooping banners, in a woful plight.

Formerly the moment the Host was raised, guns were fired
from the roof of the Cathedral, but this custom is now dispensed
with.

* Since writing the above, this gentleman left for the OEcumenical Council, and
was taken ill and died in Kome.

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE ROYAL COLLEGE, PRIVATE AND GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS,

AND THE MUSEUM.

Schools when the Island was under French Rule — M. Boyer — Assistance given to
him — Rules and Course of Instruction in the Colonial College — Its Use as a
Hospital — Its Rehabilitation, and new Title — ^Pupils sent to the Royal College
from Abroad — Hurricane in 1824 — Repairing Damages — A Pupil sent yearly to
England — Disciplinary Reform by Mr. Redle — Causes of Failure — A more
practical Education required — A new Rector and new Hopes — Schools suffering
from the Fever in 1867 — English taught, but small Results — Effect and Show
too much sought for in Education — Music — Boys' Schools — Government Schools
— Unwillingness of Coolies to be tatight — Sums collected notwithstanding Fever
— Curious Notes on the Effect of Fever on various Studies — Oriental and Creole
Characters — Course of Studies — Number of Schools, Teachers, &c. — Visit to the
'Asile' — State of the Place when first occupied — Its present Aspect — Varied
Races — Products of Grounds — Rules and Regulations — Dinner — Drill — Bed-
time— First Natural History Society — Its Aims — Its Prospects under Governors
Farquhar and Hall — The Society of 1829 — Baron Cuvier — Foreign Corre-
spondents and Members — Allowance for a Curator — MM. Desjardins and
d'Epinay — The Society's Name in 1847 — Exhibitions — The one in 1860 — Early
Morning Scenes at an Exhibition — Ordinary Articles exhibited — The Visitors —
Collections in the Museum — Paintings — M. Louis Bouton.

Several public establishments for the instruction of youth had
been tried by the colonists before the one now existing under
the title of the Royal College, but although more or less sus-
tained by Government, they never appeared to answer their
original purpose, and were all successively abandoned by their
promoters.

The best known of these were, the school founded by M.
Challan ; that of M. Michelet, which bore the title of College,
in 1791 ; and one established by MM. Jobert and Bellon, in
1 792, near the Champ de Mars. To these succeeded the collegiate
institution of M. Boyer, which may be called the cradle of the
present College, which numbered many pupils, and was the most
esteemed of all. At this period colom'ed children were not

Cn. XXVIL] EDUCATION. 451

educated with those of the white population, but there were
private schools for them in different parts of the town.

The question of education seems to have been one of great
difficulty in those days. It was a choice between sending their
children to Europe, to encounter the dangers of the passage and
the uncertainty of their being properly cared for when they
arrived; or keeping them here under the parental eye, and
confiding their instruction to incompetent professors.

Grreat anxiety was felt as to M. Boyer's success, and when it
was found that failure was inevitable unless the Grovernment came
to his rescue, the case was laid before the Assembly in 1797.
Measures were taken to assist M. Boyer in sustaining his college,
to whom a fixed sum was paid monthly from the Treasury.

The establishment then received the title of ' Colonial Col-
lege ; ' a committee was chosen from the members of the colonial
assembly, which, under the names of ' Instituteurs honoraires,'
was charged with the surveillance of this college, and all the
schools in the Island.

Fixed rules were laid down for the instruction to be adopted,
and a place called ' Vauxhall,' at the Champ de Lort, was chosen
where another school, called ' L'Ecole centrale,' was established,
to be the fountain head of all other schools, and to it was an-
nexed a drawing department, and one for hydrography.

The Principal and professors were all paid by Grovernment.
Annual distributions of prizes were also established, and every-
thing connected with education was entrusted to the commis-
sion, and its president received the title of ' Director-general of
Public Instruction.'

The central school changed its name under Greneral Decaen
to the ' Lycee des Isles des France et Eeunion,' some amend-
ments were made in the studies, &c., and military training was
added, to the great delight of the pupils.

The taking of the Island by the British gave a temporary
shock to this institution. The Lyceum had been evacuated by
the pupils by Government order on the expected descent on the
town. It was trnnsformed into a hospital for the sick and
wounded of the British army. The inhabitants feared this
would be the annihilation of their College, but as soon as the
most urgent needs of the new government were cared for, Mr.
p'arquhar took measures to reinstate it ; and, after an interval of

452 SCHOOLS, ETC. [Ch. XXVII.

six months, the ' Colonial College 'was re-opened, June 15, 1814.
During the time of the French, twenty-four boarders were ad-
mitted free by Grovernment, and the English added to them
twelve half-boarders.^

There were at that time 250 pupils. Boarders paid twenty
dollars a month, and half-boarders twelve ; day scholars only
paying five dollars. They all wore a uniform jacket, with blue
sleeves, red collars, and gilt buttons. In 1813 a Professor was
appointed to teach the Malagash language, in order to facilitate
the intercourse with the island of Madagascar.

Education was ever one of the principal objects of solicitude
to Governor Farquhar. He placed the institution under the
protection of H. E. H. the Prince Eegent (afterwards Greorge
IV.), who was graciously pleased to order that for the future it
should be called the Eoyal College, and the choice of professors
and committee was reserved for the home Government.

Two vacations of a fortnight only were allowed during the
year, which were always preceded by public examinations, and
succeeded by a distribution of prizes, given with much ceremony,
in presence of the Governor, the civil and military authorities,
and a large concourse of spectators. Monthly examinations
also took place of the different classes, when silver crosses and
divers coloured ribbons were awarded.

To excite the zeal of the students still further, additional
prizes were granted, the recipients to be chosen by Government,
to enable the pupils whose progTess merited such honour to be
sent to the European universities. The professors taught the
English, French, Latin, and Greek languages ; writing, geo-
graphy, history ; mathematics, including navigation, drawing,
architecture, botany, physics, and the elements of chemistry.

Such was the estimation in which the College was held, that
pupils were constantly sent to it from India, Bourbon, &c.

In 1819 a hirrricane injured the building severely, but the still
more violent one of February 23, 1823, drove the whole upper
part off the basement. One of the professors was seriously in-
jured ; and but for the courage of the Eector and professors most
of the pupils would have been sacrificed. Sir G. Lowry Cole
caused the edifice to be rebuilt on a solid foundation, but it

* These were added on the condition that a third of the whole should be of
Cuglish origin.

Ch. XXVII.] EDUCATION. 453

was. long before its completion. However, a temporary residence
was found, and the studies were continued in it with little inter-
ruption.

The two former stories of wood were raised on a good stone
foundation, and flanked by two wings, each 66 feet long by 30,
also of stone.

After the re-opening of the College, the red collar of the uni-
form was exchanged for a yellow one, and the price of the day
scholars was raised to six dollars.

In 1838 great complaints were made as to the changes in the
manner of education, and the disorders prevalent.

In 1 845 a despatch was published, authorizing the Government
to send to England yearly the pupil who most distinguished
himself.

It would appear that there must have been lax discipline for
many years, till the evil had become so hydra-headed as to need
a thorough reorganisation of the whole system.

Disciplinary reform, well conceived and absolutely neces-
sary, was attempted by the late Rector, Mr. Redle, on his
arrival.

Some few abuses were corrected, but the new order of things
proved a total failure. That gentleman was totally unfitted for
his task. In the first place, the fact of his being an Austrian
displeased both English and French ; his overbearing temper
and utter want of conciliation and tact, the ' fortiter in re ' ever
employed and the ' sauviter in modo ' equally ignored, in a post
rendered exceedingly difficult to hold in the then state of affairs,
prevented the hoped-for advantages accruing from the really
commendable reforms he tried to establish. There was constant
war between the rector and professors, and the pupils gradually
fell off. Mr. Redle through all his career showed himself to
be one of those square men, who always try to fit themselves into
a round hole ; the result may be imagined.

There has always been a magic to the Mauritian people in the
words ' Royal College,' which was long the academic grove
whence the brightest intelligences received their culture. The
rectorship of Mr. Redle nearly ruined it, and notwithstanding
its old prestige, it will take time before its popularity can be
restored. At the present time the private schools are far out-
stripping the College pupils.

Ii

454 SCHOOLS. [Ch. XXVI I.

The needful studies for fitting boys for filling positions in the
world as engineers, architects, merchants, planters, &c., are
completely ignored, whilst too much importance is given to
acquiring a little Latin and Grreek. Of course the College has
sent forth many bright scholars who have done honour to both
school and professors, but in the present day they are the ex-
ceptions, not the rule.

A fair field is opened to youths both white and coloured, all
meet now on equal terms to try the superiority of their intel-
lects. Many of the coloured lads have attained honourable
posts by their perseverance ; many of those sent to England by
Grovernment have belonged to this class, and they have returned
to Mauritius as doctors, lawyers, &c.

It is to be hoped that such a thorough reform will take place
under the Rector newly installed, that the Royal College will
rise again to its former place in the estimation of its true
friends. From the prospectus proposed by Mr. Bruce he evi-
dently appears to see very accurately what the requirements of
the case are, and if properly aided, will, I do not doubt, prove
to be the right man in the right place.

Private and Governtnent Schools.

When everything else was at a standstill during the fever, in
1867, schools naturally suffered to a great extent; and when
re-opened, it was long ere parents could be induced to send
their children regularly, whilst liable to be struck down at any
moment, and perhaps before they could be taken home, the
attack was so serious, as either to end fatally, or leave the poor
little patient ill for weeks.

Some of the old established schools were nearly ruined ; and it
was only towards the middle of 1868, that confidence was
sufficiently restored for the usual course of study to be resumed.

English is taught in all the schools, but judging from the
small amount of it spoken, with no great results ; English being-
the exceptional, not the ruling language.

The rising generation is, however, making greater progress,
and I have conversed with young men who have not left the
Island who speak well, and write far better English. Some
letters I have received from clerks applying for places,
or on business, display an amount of grandiloquence quite

Ch. XXVIL] SCHOOLS. 455

astounding ; though nothing can beat the letters of the Indian
Creoles who can write English at all. I have a specimen by me
I copy for the benefit of future applicants for help under in-
teresting circumstances.^

I find many more English ladies speak French than the
reverse. French ladies as a rule are very shy of sporting their
knowledge of our language ; but I am sure, if they knew how
prettily and softly their English with a French accent falls on
om-ears from their lips, they would be less chary of their speech.

The boys seem to have a better education than the girls,
though theirs is far below the European or American standard.

In the schools for the latter, they go in too much for long
recitations (for which they have marvellous memories), music,
embroidery, and other things that make a show, to leave room
for a very solid foundation, except where private tuition has been
employed, and there the result is markedly different.

Music is a Creole passion, and it is greatly cultivated, and
with success. There are plenty of excellent pianists as teachers,
and the most difficult music of the German masters is found in
very many families. The system employed, however, tends to
make dashing performers, and one often longs for something-
softer and quieter than a brilliant morceau from an opera.
Ballad music, except in a few English houses, is unknown ; and
sacred music, except with the few who sing in the chmxhes, is
unheard. Every piano seems scrupulously closed on Sunday ;
unless in some Catholic family you may chance to hear a stirring-
waltz or polka, when their day's devotions are over.

The boys' schools are many of them ably conducted, and they
have turned out many accomplished scholars. I find amongst
the boys generally a woful deficiency in geographical science.
It appears to hold the lowest place in Creole estimation, whilst
in reality it should be made the connecting link with so many
other sciences.

The Grovernment schools have increased greatly within the
last twenty years, in spite of the periodical troubles they have
passed through since 1850.

I glean the following information from a Report on schools,
by Mr. J. Comber Browne, superintendent of government schools,
who kindly placed it at my disposal.

' See Appendix, p. 511.

456 EDUCATION, [Ch. XXVIl.

Since 1850, repeated visitations of cholera, and the long-
protracted malarial fever, each in turn nearly brought the schools
to a dead stop. In every instance, however, they have survived
the shock, and shown a degree of vitality and elasticity truly
remarkable.

It is to be regretted, however, that the machinery is still
inadequate to meet the growing wants of the colony. Thousands
of children are yet unreached, and uninfluenced by any direct
civilising agent whatever.

At one time the greatest indisposition was shown by the
coolies to su]>mit to any kind of education. This has been
overcome, and teachers have been found to undertake the
irksome task : funds alone are wanting to carry on the work.

The Grovernment schools are professedly secular as to their
curriculum of studies, but in most all the ministers of different
creeds have ample facilities for instructing the children in their
religious duties.

Since the fever, there have been great difficulties in collecting
the fees under pressm'e of circumstances. 1,050 orphans are on
the books ; 870 have lost one parent, and 180 both : of course,
on the latter it was impossible to impose a fee. 50 pupils died,
and 500 were withdrawn, mostly from sickness. Nevertheless,
the sum of 490^. was collected during the year 1868.

It appears from official returns that these schools have been
productive of great good ; only nine pupils have been tried, and
convicted of any crime by the magistrates.

It is stated that a decline of 30 per cent, in point of pro-
ficiency in the general range of instruction has taken place.

It is rather curious to note Mr. Browne's remarks on this
subject, and they might serve as fertile ideas to be worked out
by some philosophic brain.

He says : ' The mechanical subjects, such as mapping and
penmanship have not fallen off much ; nor has mental arith-
metic fallen greatly into arrear ; but languages and their auxi-
liaries have suffered considerably.'

The teachers have uphill work to contend with in the pecu-
liar vices of the native population. Falsehood, petty thefts,
and absence of self-help are rampant in every school ; and I fear
it will be long before these truly Oriental characteristics will be
eradicated, if ever. The superintendent has had long experience

Ch. XXVII.J self-help, 457

of both Indian and Creole characters, and he thus emphatically
writes : ' Comparing the apprentice with the poor Indian
labourer, the contrast is by no means favourable to the former.
While at work, and in the receipt of good pay, he is improvi-
dent and a spendthrift ; out of work, a helpless pauper. Should
sickness overtake him, he flies to his priest for aid, and to his
relations for shelter ; these failing, he soon starves and dies ;
and no one can deny that this has been the fate of hundreds
during the epidemic'

I can endorse this statement from my own observation.
That they have no idea of self-help is true to the letter. I
have seen poor wretched starving Indians gladly earning a
few pence to get a meal, and making the most of it ; and again
strong able Creoles who will beg from anyone they think likely
to give. When offered a day's work, they will either refuse it,
if it requires much personal exertion, or demand a high price,
which if given, they loiter half their time away to spin out the
work ; and if refused, they go off in a huff, and resume their
begging.

In spite of all the obstacles to success, the Grovernment schools
during the year 1868 sent out boys to fill the following positions :
Twenty- two were apprenticed to carpenters ; twenty-three as
clerks in mercantile, telegraph, and other offices ; thirteen are
employed by engineers ; seven engaged in sugar factories ; six
have become assistants in schools ; twenty-five have been dis-
tributed among the trades of smith, mason, coach builder,
painter, &c., and two have obtained Eoyal College scholarships.
All this speaks well for the practical nature of the studies in
these schools.

The course of instruction comprises English reading and
translating into French ; French reading and translating into
English, Geography, the world in general, and England and Mau-
ritius in particular ; outline mapping and physical geography :
English and French grammar ; arithmetic ; the respective valuet^
of Imperial and Colonial money, making out accounts appli-
cable to the requirements of the colony, calculating interest,
&c. &c.

The school staff consists of fifty-three masters, twenty-one
mistresses, and eighteen assistants. The official work is carried
on by the superintendent (who is also Secretary to the Com-

4S8 REFORMATORY. [Cli. XXVII.

mittee of Education, and Inspector of Elementary Schools and
Reformatories), an accountant, and copyist.

The number of Government schools is . . . . . .52

Schools assisted by grants ........ 42

Reformatories .......... 2

96

There are also departments under Creole and Indian teachers,
which raise the number to 117.

Sixteen elementary schools were obliged to close on account
of fever ; yet at the end of the year there were 5,821 children
on the books.

Besides the above, there is the Indian Orphan Asylum at
Powder Mills. Death made sad havoc among these children
dm'ing the epidemic, and there appears to have been a good
deal of mismanagement since.

It is now, however, affiliated with the Reformatory at the
' Asile ' in its vicinity, which is under the immediate direction
of the Police department.

The annual amount voted by the legislature for the payment
of salaries, rents, grants to elementary schools, books, stationery,
and other contingencies, is 16,5 9 6Z.

Having been induced to pay a visit to one of the Government
reformatories, I give a short account of it. I as a stranger was so
interested in all I saw, that I think it would be well for many
others, who seem to know nothing of it save its existence, to do
all in *their power to encourage an institution that must, if
continued successfully, be of incalculable benefit to the future
of the colony.

It is carrying out the New World recognised fact that, for a
country to prosper, its vagabond children must be cared for
whilst mind and body are so plastic as to be capable of moulding
to good uses, an almost impossibility with adults. If this is
proved to be a necessity elsewhere, how much more so must it be
in a place where there is such a mixtm'e of races as in Mauritius !

The Reformatory, known generally as the ' Asile,' is about
six miles distant from Port Louis. In 1868, the happy idea
was conceived by His Excellency the Grovernor of converting
an old abandoned, broken-down sugar estate, taken over for
debt by the Grovernment Savings' Bank, into what is eventually
intended to be the model farm of the Island. To Major O'Brien,

Ch. XXVIL] REFORMATORY. 459

the Inspector Greneral of Police, the carrying out of the scheme is
due. When this gentleman first visited the place he found it in a
most deplorable state — ' roads almost impassable, covered with
weeds and grass six feet high, buildings without exception
uninhabitable, nearly all unroofed by the hurricane of 1868,
swamps, and rank vegetation everywhere.'

He saw before him a truly herculean task, but he set about it
undaunted, for his heart was in this good work. None knew
better than he, from his daily experience amongst all classes, of
the dire need of such an institution, of the great importance of
rescuing the hundreds of homeless boys, eking out a miserable
existence by theft and worse crimes. Numbers of these boys
were brought to the vagrants' depot, but being placed indis-
criminately with older offenders, more harm than good was
done by their detention.

On June 26, 1868, Major O'Brien sent fifteen boys with a
band of vagrants, under superintendence, to begin the contem-
plated work. A temporary shelter was made by covering part
of the house with tarpaulins, and by degrees most of the ruin-
ous tenements were made habitable. When these were com-
pleted, attention was turned to the grounds, and there a syste-
matic clearance was carried on.

Roads were cleaned and mended ; the old basins, covered
with fetid mud, were filled up, and fresh ones made, while flood-
gates were built to allow the ingress and egress of water to them ;
the bridge over the Citron River repaired, drains were dug to
clear the unhealthy, swampy land, and walls reared.

It was a little more than a year after its inauguration that I
visited the Asile, and I was astonished to see so much accom-
plished, and the order, cleanliness, and neatness that prevailed
made it an example to many another place in Mam'itius that
might advantageously copy it in these respects. A fine metalled
road had been made from the highway, leading to the main
house, and as I drove up the whole place had a pleasant aspect.
All the buildings were whitewashed, the grounds laid out in
vegetable and flower gardens, and close to the house was a pretty
little fernery.

The principal rooms used for school and office purposes were
surrounded with a grove of mango trees. Here I was shown
the handiwork of the boys : tin plates, watering-cans, baskets,

46o THE ASILE, [Ch. XXVII.

and mats, and all very creditably done. It was with pleasure
I witnessed the progress many of the boys had made, who did
not know a letter when they entered the ' Asile.' English is
the rule, the different vernaculars only being used when ex-
planations require them. Some of the lads I examined could
read English, and wrote it on their slates very fairly. Simple
arithmetic they acquire with great facility, as most Indians
do.

There are children of Indian, Creole, Coringhy, African, and
Bourbon parentage ; and the Superintendent told me they
were most of them very tractable, and few attempt escape ex-
cept new comers, who find the discipline irksome to their vaga-
bond habits.

Every kind of household and other occupations connected
with the institution are taught first. Cooking, cleaning, wash-
ing and mending clothes, ornamental and vegetable gardening,
field work, carpentering, brick and basket making, masonry,
tin and blacksmith's work, attending to horses and cattle, and
driving the mule carts used on the place ; everything which
can be useful to them, and help to make the institution self-
supporting. There were 227 boys in the Asile there, and
already 78 acres of land were in cultivation.

Most of the roads were skirted with Filaos, Palmistes and
other trees. All kinds of vegetables are grown, which are sent into
the bazaar daily, where they have a stand set apart for them ; and
experiments are being made (with an eye to future use) in
growing coffee, tea, China grass, vanilla, poppies, and tobacco.

Very firm and excellent rules have been issued for the
government of the establishment, and the regulation of the
various duties of the boys ; and a register is kept in which is
noted every particular respecting their conduct from the time
of their entry into the Asile.

They are divided into squads of from ten to fifteen ; and the
boys who, by being first in their classes, and at work, and meriting
it by general good conduct, are appointed overseers, or sirdars,
are answerable for the cleanliness and order of their respective
squads.

This responsibility seems to have a very beneficial effect, and
inspires emulation in the boys to attain the post ; and a slight
distinction of dress is also made, which is another attraction to

Ch. XXVIL] TEACHINGS. 461

them. Each boy is put to some trade, at which he works for a
certain time ; should he then wish to change he can do so, but
his decision must be final. Good workmen are chosen to teach
the several trades. A capital rule is made about these work-
men and the teachers — their increase of pay, &c., are made to
depend upon the progress of the taught ; a rule that would be
of infinite service if applied to schools and trades generally, here
and elsewhere.

Dm'ing the last six months before the expiration of their
time, a part of each boy's earnings is laid aside to form a fund
for providing him with clothes, tools, and other necessaries
when he makes a start in life. Seventeen is the prescribed age
for leaving, but if a good offer for an apprentice is made,
with the consent of the superintendent, they can leave much
earlier. Should circumstances deprive them of a home before
their apprenticeship is closed, they may return temporarily to
the Asile.

The simplest forms of prayer and religious instruction are
given, irrespective of creeds, the bases of which are the Lord's
Prayer and the Ten Commandments ; no catechism whatever is
allowed to be taught, but access is given to all ministers of re-
ligion when requested by parents.

Their days, summer and winter, are pretty equally divided
with work, school, drill and recreation.

It was late when I paid my visit, and the boys were about to
be marshalled to their evening meal, which in summer time is
given them under the mango trees. They marched along like
soldiers, and filed off to their respective places, facing inward at
the word of command. All remained motionless till the order
was given to sit down to their meal, which was done without
confusion, and in perfect silence. When all had finished, they
were marched off, and drawn up in front of the dormitories.

Here the superintendent talked to them, and asked if any of
them had any complaint to make ; but all expressed themselves
satisfied, except one little fellow, who wanted to change his
trade of stonemason for that of carpenter. The boys looked up
at the Major as children would do to a kind friend. It was
quite evident, though the rules are strictly carried out, and
disobedience sharply punished, that this kind-hearted man has
not forgotten that they are children he has to deal with, and

462 HOSPITAL. [Ch. XXVII.

that gentleness and kindness will win their way even with the
roughest and apparently most hopeless subject.

Here they were drilled, and a smart little fellow put them
through their manoeuvres in capital style. He entered heartily
into the spirit of the thing, and I have no doubt was as proud
of his post as a general at the head of his army. At last they
were marched in line to where their hammocks hung, and at
the word of command they opened them out, and slung them up
as promptly as if trained on board a man-of-war. These ham-
mocks have been used to replace the awkward prison bedsteads,
as cleaner and healthier, and allowing of the room to be used
in the daytime for other purposes.

PISTACHE NUT.

I was shown a temporary hospital, where a few boys lay sick
of fever. The poor little fellows raised their heads as I entered
to look at me, and get a kind word from the Major. Very few
had touched the meal that lay on a stool beside them. Every-
thing was clean and neat, and the boys looked as comfortable as
possible when suffering from such a miserable disease. I was
informed that they are about to build a permanent hospital. I
saw the prison for the incorrigibles, one of whom was punished
for theft in presence of the whole gang, as a warning to the
rest.

I left much pleased with my visit, and wished every success
to so useful and benevolent an undertaking.

Ch. XXVIL] MUSEUM, 463

Tlie, Natural Histoinf Society y Museum^ &c.

In 1805 an association was formed, under the title of the
' Societe d'Emulation,' to occupy itself with everything connected
with science, agriculture, commerce, and navigation.

This society was formed by a few intelligent men, and a
number of members soon joined it, till its correspondence
extended to India, Seychelles, Bourbon, the Cape, and France.

Its principal objects were to aid navigation in the Indian
seas, improve agriculture in Mauritius, and acquire a knowledge
of the natives of Madagascar and Africa. Some important
services had been rendered in all these branches, when the
society began to languish. However, after the British conquest
of the Island, Governor Farquhar raised its drooping wings,
placed it under the protection of Government, and personally
expressed his interest in its transactions. He was elected a
member, and soon infused into it new life and spirit.

In 1817, before his departure for England, the rules were
remodelled, and its name changed to the ' Society for the
Encouragement of the Arts and Sciences.' When General Hall
was Governor ad interim, it was natm^ally supposed he would
have respected the wishes of the actual chief, only temporarily
absent. But no ; he appears to have put a veto on everything
that could conduce to the progress of the colony. He inaugm-
ated his official acts by a proclamation annulling the disposi-
tions made in favour of the Society, and very soon little was
known of it save its name.

It was not until 1829, under the administration of Sir
Charles Colville, that it revived, principally through the agency
of the Curator of vacant estates. It received a new title, the
' Natural History Society,' and was composed chiefly of young
men, under the direction of Mr. Charles Telfair, Dr. Lial, and
Mr. W. Bojer, Professor of Botany at the Eoyal College.

The day of the re-opening was the auspicious one of the 22nd
of August, the sixtieth anniversary of the birth of Baron George
Cuvier. This distinguished man took great interest in the
revivified society ; and in 1831 sent it a present of a fine marble
bust of himself and a copy of his valuable works, which are still
its most cherished treasiures.

464 MUSEUM. [Ch. XXVII.

Meetings were held once a month for scientific purposes, based
on the rules of the ' Societe d'Histoire naturelle,' in Paris. This
association comprises a president and vice-president, secretary
and vice-secretary, treasurer, resident and corresponding members.
Amongst the latter are names well known to fame in tlie
scientific world. I cite a few at random : — Sir Alexander and
Sir William Buckland, Sir A. Johnson, Eev. J. Adamson, Sir
W. Hooker, GeofFroy St.-Hilaire, A. P. de Candolle, Le Comte
Dejean, Sir J. Herschel, Von Martins, Adrien Jussieu, Professor
J. Lindley, C. D. Schreiber, Dr. Stewart, Professor Agassiz,
Madame Ida Pfeiffer, &c. &c. A correspondence is also kept
up with all the leading societies in India, Australia, the Cape,
Europe, and America ; whilst the best names Mauritius can boast
have been enrolled amongst its members.

In 1835 a present of shells was sent it from Bom-bon ; and I
find that the Custom House in those days played as unpleneant
a part to the scientific world then as it does to ordinary indivi-
duals in the present day. Weeks elapsed before the cases could
be procured, and then there were grave doubts as to their being
intact.

In 1842 the acting chief officer. Colonel Stavely, sanctioned
an allowance for a curator with a grant of 240^. a year. Another
grant was also given from the public chest of 200^. per annum
to meet expenses. This amount was to be employed for cost of
printing the ' Reports of the Transactions of the Society,' which
are issued once a year and sent to all foreign correspondents ; for
medals and prizes granted each year to the best pupils in agri-
cultural chemistry at the Royal College ; also to the planters,
small cultivators, artisans, manufacturers, and others at the
annual exhibitions.

Just previously to the above grants, the death of one of the
most zealous of its members took place, that of M. Desjardins,
who had filled the post of hon. secretary from 1829. His widow
presented his valuable museum to the society on a guarantee
being given her that it should be well cared for. The condition
was willmgly accepted, and this donation formed the nucleus of
the present museum. M. Adrien d'Epinay, dying about the
same time, bequeathed his library to his late colleagues, and in
consequence of these bequests the office of Curator mentioned
above was instituted.

C H. XX V 1 1 .] PRIZES. 465

M. Bojer was appointed to fill this post, and apartments in
one of the wings of the College were set apart, to which the
museum and library were removed, and which have been their
abode ever since.

In 1847 the word 'Eoyal' was allowed to be added to the
title, and thenceforth it has been known as the * Eoyal Society of
Arts and Sciences in Mauritius.'

About this time or a little earlier, an exhibition of sugars,
vegetables, flowers, &c., took place, and the exhibitors were
rewarded with medals and prizes in money. It was so favoura})ly
received that one or more has taken place every year since, with
the exception of 1867. In 1850, twenty medals were given for
sugars and other produce ; and there was a competition for the
best essay on the cultivation of the sugar-cane. The prize was
divided between M. G-allet and M. Autard, and honom-able
mention was made of several others.

I find that in 1852 a prize of 50^. was awarded to Mr.
Hounslow, of the engineer department, for ameliorating the
dwellings of the poor, and presented to him by the then presi-
dent, the Hon. E. W. Eawson. I have, however, yet to learn
what good results have accrued to the town from this liberality.

It appears that the society has been unremitting in its endea-
vours for the encouragement of different articles of produce, both
for export and home consumption, but from one circumstance
or other all seem to have failed but the everlasting sugar-cane.

In 1860 an intercolonial exhibition was held at Government
House. Sir William Stevenson threw open house and grounds
to the public for three days. Seychelles, Eodrigues, and
Bourbon sent their choicest productions ; and from all accounts
it appears to have been the best thing of the kind ever held in
the colony.

In 1867, when the G-reat Exhibition took place in Paris, an
effort was made to represent Mamitius there. Sugars were sent
of very fine qualities, and colonial rum, tanned hides, tobacco
and cigars, fibres, vanilla, arrowi'oot, specimens of indigenous
woods fit for building and other purposes, and a variety of pro-
duce. Drawings of Mauritius scenery and views of Bourbon
were forwarded, with some of the elegant basket-work made
from the leaves of the coco-de-mer, and shell-flowers, cleverly
constructed from the various tinted tellinas, Venuses, and the

466 MILLINERY. [Ch. XXVIl.

opercula of different shells, the effect of which is charming
when made with taste.

As a whole I believe Mamritius looked very insignificant at
the ' World's Fair in Paris.' She comes out better at home.

I have been present at two of these shows, and a curious
sight they present. They are held in the upper half of the
bazaar, which is closed to the public during the previous day, to
undergo a thorough cleansing and adornment with greenery.

Early in the morning of the day carts are crowding up, laden
with flower plants or vegetables from the various districts, to be
arranged in their allotted spaces. Moka is always strongest in
flowers, from its peculiar damp climate, and from its possessing
the only nursery garden in the colony.

For some hours a babel rages inside and out of the building.
I pitied the poor secretary, who has to settle all differences,
write out tickets, find the best places for everybody, never to
make a mistake ; and whether he does or not he is safe to be
abused right and left, everyone shouting at him at once and
few helping.

One minute it is a heap of fresh butter which somebody dabs
down on a basket of strawberries or violets, or a lady's cushion ;
then a couple of pigs, or a pair of carriage wheels : very lucky
if the porkers don't get the tickets of their neighbours, the
Cochin fowls. Then a basket of monster patates, or a bouquet
fit for a lady's dress, or large enough to fill a good-sized round
table, and so on. Every one, of course, is in a hurry, and must
have his or her ticket at once. However, by a good deal of tact
and patience and unflagging zeal, matters are pretty amicably
arranged by eleven o'clock, when the judges enter to award the
prizes, which are marked in large letters on each article. It
would be unfair to draw comparisons with exhibitions elsewhere,
but for so small a place they are very creditable.

Place aux dames! The ladies' work, millinery, artificial
flowers, and other feminine fabrics, might pass muster anywhere.
The fairy Creole fingers do not restrict their handiwork to
fineries ; large pats of sweet fresh butter, most appetising pre-
serves, and pickles attest their skill.

A partition is covered with paintings and photographs ; the
latter, besides portraits, showing some good views of Mauritian
scenery. Vegetables are fine and well assorted ; tobacco and

Ch: XXVII.] DRESS. 467

colonial-made cigars very good ; liqueurs. Vanilla fruits, and
many other things (as the advertisements say) far too numerous
to mention.

The flowers and bouquets of all shapes and sizes show well,
and there is generally a fine display of ferns, principally those
of Lady Barkly.

Towards two o'clock His Excellency with his lady and suite
arrive ; the band strikes up, and in pour the elite^ the demi-
monde, any one fortunate enough to hold a ticket, but all
orderly, and the lowest well and cleanly dressed. One half of
the visitors at least goes to see the other half. I confess, as I
sat quietly gazing on the varied scene, I was perfectly astounded
at the extensiveness of the dress of the femininity.

Every exaggeration, from the hideous chignon to the two-inch
heels that throw the figure off the perpendicular and into the
Grrecian Bend. Every combination of colour was there ; I need
not define in which class. All, however, seemed gay and festive,
and glad to chat, flirt, and air their finery.

At four o'clock the prizes are given by the Grovernor ; the
band plays ' Grod save the Queen,' the representative of royalty
disappears, and, by half- past five, the scene has again changed
to the confusion of tongues of the morning, as the various
objects are carried away by their owners, till night closes in.

The Natural History collections of the Society in their
museum are fine and rare, but not extensive. Besides the
Fauna of Mauritius, that of Madagascar, Southern Africa, and
the neighbouring islands is well represented. The fish of the
surrounding seas are in great numbers. The monsters of the
deep show their hideous maws at every step The very stair-
case is lined with gigantic heads of sharks, their triple tiers of
teeth grinning horribly. It makes one's hair stand on end,
when viewing these dry bones, to think that it is in the region
where these insatiate animals abound that the Indian diver
seeks the treasures of the ocean.

It is quite a relief to turn to the cases of many-hued shells,
for which Mauritius is famous. To this department all the
Dependencies and the Far East have contributed. India and
Africa send a large collection of reptiles, well preserved. Corals,
of course, are not wanting ; and there is a small collection of

468 ' PICTURES, [Ch. XXVli.

minerals, principally from Australia and South America, but
not of great value.

Round the room are hung a few large pictures : one, a copy
of Murillo's ' Holy Family,' was painted at Paris by M. Michel,
and presented to the Society. Attached to the museum is the
library, which now numbers over 2,000 volumes, many very
costly, and some invaluable as books of reference. The whole is
under the care of M. Louis Bouton.

This gentleman has made a very large and rare collection of
the indigenous plants of Mauritius. He sent a duplicate of
them to the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and the originals have
been removed to the Pamplemousses Grardens, and were placed
under the care of the late Dr. Meller, whose loss the colony has
30 recently deplored.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

IMMIGRATION.

A new Era for English Colonies — When and How the Abolition Act was brought
in Eorce — Number of Slaves — Introduction of Coolies — Bad Management-
Valuation of Slaves — Ex-Apprentices — Immigration renewed — Cholera —
Agricultural Progress — Changed Condition of Malabars after residing here —
Tickets and Photographs — Camps — Eever — Death-Eate — Report of Mr. Beyts —
Cost of Establishment and other Statistics— Arrears of Wages — Immigration
Tables — Facts respecting various Castes of Indians.

The year 1834 was the beginning of a new era for all the
Colonies of Great Britain. From that date all traffic in human
flesh virtually ceased for ever, where England held sway.
Though the Act for the Abolition of Slavery was passed in this
year, the laws respecting thereto were to remain in force till
February 1st, 1835. From this period all slaves of six years
old and upwards, duly registered, became apprentice labourers,
and continued so till February 1st, 1841, as regarded field
labourers, and until February 1839 for those non-attached.
There were at this time in the colony 39,464 men and boys,
and 25,856 women and girls, making a total of 65,320 slaves.

From symptoms of disaffection amongst the soon-to-be
liberated slaves, it was evident to the planters that no time was
to be lost in procuring men to till the soil ; and the introduction
of labourers from India was attempted.

The Grovernment offered no obstacle to the project ; and, as
no restrictions were laid as to the number to be brought in each
vessel, by the year 1838, no less than 24,566 coolies had arrived
from Calcutta.^

' These labourers engaged to work at field labour for a term of five years, at the
rate of five rupees a month, with rations.

A certain sum was to be retained of these wages, to pay for a nturn passage to
India if desired at the expiration of their engagement.

Kk

470 FREE LABOUR. [Ch. XXVIII.

The bad management in the shipment of these Indians led
to serious complaints being laid before the Home Grovernment,
as well as the Grovernment of India. In consequence of
these and other remonstrances, immigration was suspended in
1838.

In February 1835, the Commission of Indemnity began the
valuation of slaves, which was completed by the end of the year,
resulting in the sum of 2,112,632^., which was paid by England
to the planters of Mamitius, being at the rate of 69Z. 14s. Zd.
per slave.

When the ex-apprentices were freed in 1839, scenes of riot
and disturbance took place all over the Island.

The ex-slaves refused to work, alleging, for one reason, that
they had been ill-treated by their former masters having sent
to India for labourers ; but the truth was, they considered that
their freedom would be incomplete without an entire abandon-
ment of their former labours.

Like all large bodies of men when all restraint is suddenly with-
drawn, they launched into violent excesses. Every street in
Port Louis swarmed with them, much to the annoyance of the
more quietly disposed population. It was only positive hunger
and want that compelled them at last to seek employment, but
in so desultory a way that it was found no certainty could be
placed on their work.

In 1840, during the time Colonel Power was Acting G-overnor,
a committee was formed, under the presidence of Captain Dick,
Colonial Secretary, to organise some plan for the continuance of
immigration. The ' Free Labour Association ' was the title of
this new society, and its object was to facilitate in every way
the introduction of labour into the colony. It was forbidden by
the Government to bring immigrants from the coast of Africa,
so that from India alone could they look for working men.

In 1842, Sir William Gromm obtained leave to introduce
(),000 labourers annually. In 1849, a draft ordinance was
pat^sed, allowing only of engagements for a term of three years.

The new system of immigration did not apparently answer all
its requirements, for I find, in 1851, Mr. Higginson, the then
Grovernor, endeavouring to obtain free labourers from the coast
of Madagascar, to make good the deficiency in the labour
market.

Ch. XXVI 1 1.] COOLIES. 471

In 1854, the cholera was brought to Mauritius by an immi-
grant ship from Calcutta, where the terrible pest is indigenous
to the soil, having its head-quarters in the Delta of the Granges.

So dire were the effects of this disease on the colony, that in
1857 it was proposed by the chief medical officer that coolies
should only be brought from the presidencies of Madras and
Bombay ; the natives from these districts being healthier than
those from Calcutta.

In Sir William Stevenson's time, liberty was granted to the
planters to engage their labourers for a period of five years,
which proved of great advantage to all concerned.

The progress of agricultural industry has been rapid and
regular, and the increase of the productions of the soil has been
in the same proportion as the introduction of Indian labourers.

The tables at the end of this chapter will show the exports of
the main staple in the times of slave and free labour of the
colony.

The coolies number two-thirds of the population, and, as far
as I am able to judge, are as well cared for and protected by
the Grovernment as any other class in Mauritius. I have visited
many estates and found the labourers apparently contented and
happy, and certainly better off than they ever were before.

Look at the thin frail form of the Malabar when he arrives
from India, and see him after some years' residence in the
Island. His form assumes a roundness and his muscles a
development, from exercise, wholesome and sufficient food, and
being well cared for, which speak volumes in praise of the civi-
lising influence he is unconsciously undergoing, and if its eftects
are not very evident in this generation they will be most un-
mistakably in the next.

Every coolie carries a small tin case attached to his waist, con-
taining his certificates of arrival, age, personal description, with
a photograph, engagement, &c. He never ventiures into the street
without this, as he is liable to be stopped at any moment by the
police ; and if his papers are not all correct, he is at once arrested
till he can give a satisfactory account of himself. If a domestic
servant gets leave to go into the country, he must have a pass
from his master, specifying the number of days he has permission
to be absent, and the place of his destination. The photograph
system has been adopted to compel every Indian to show his

472 STATISTICS, [Ch. XXVIII.

own ticket. Formerly there was any amount of rascality carried
on. If a man lost his own ticket, he would beg, borrow, or
steal his friend's, or get one forged for a trifle, all of which
tricks are useless now. The dated passports not only prevent
vagabondage, but put a stop in a great measure to runaway ser-
vants, who on the slightest provocation would formerly abscond.

Every sugar estate has what is called a ' Camp ' attached to it,
where the labourers reside. The houses are principally thatched,
but many of them are built of stone on the larger plantations,
and there is always a good supply of water for drinking and
washing purposes.

Near the ' Camp,' on a site chosen by a medical officer
appointed for that purpose, a hospital is erected, and proper
attendants duly qualified by certificates for waiting on the sick
are appointed.

The sanitary condition of both camps and hospitals is exa-
mined into, and reported on yearly to Grovernment.

During the epidemic the greatest care was bestowed on the
labourers, and the deaths were less in proportion to the great
numbers employed than in any other class. ^

The death-rates amongst the Indians during the fever were
as follow per 1,000 : —

Adults 37-4

In total population of estates ...... 44'5

At the same time, in the districts, it was forty-five per 1,000,
and in Port Louis eighty ! which means decimation in fifteen
months, and annihilation in twelve years.

Many of the Indians are frugal, and manage to save enough
to remit home to India, either for investment in land there, or
for the support of aged relatives ; to invest in small stores here
or to return to India. In 1869, there were 69,032^. standing
to the credit of Indians in the Savings' Bank, and this sum is
yearly steadily increasing as they begin to have confidence in the
secm'ity of the bank. No less than 17,158^. were remitted last
year on behalf of immigrants to Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta.
This does not include large sums sent home through merchants,
or taken in specie by the immigrants themselves.

' Besides the hospitals on the estates, five public hospitals and thirty-two
dispensaries have been established in various parts of the Island.

Ch. XXVI 1 1.] DHOBIES. 473

A convincing proof of their appreciation of the benefits to be
derived in the colony, is given in the numbers constantly coming
back to the Island and setting up in some way of business, or
returning as servants to their former masters.

For the following account of the present state of the Indian
immigrants, and the statistics respecting them, I draw my in-
formation from the able reports of the Hon. Mr. Beyts, who is
at the head of the Immigration Office, and whose long expe-
rience makes him the best authority on the subject. This
gentleman has for years rendered most valuable services to the
colony in his department, and has also been up to India on an
important mission for the Government to further the cause of
immigration.

From the great care bestowed of late years on the immigrant
ships to Mauritius, the ratio of deaths is small compared with
that in vessels conveying Indian immigrants to other colonies.

The costs of the establishment connected with immigration
for 1869 were 7,882L 8s. lOcZ.

The Indian population amounted at this time to 206,771.

With the coolies usually arrive a number of free passengers,
many of them old hands, who return, paying their passage and
bringing friends with them, especially Dhobies, induced by their
representations to visit Maiuritius in quest of fortune. Six
immigrant ships arrived in the course of the year, four from
Madras, and two from Calcutta, bringing a total of 1,682
souls.

The departures, as compared with other years, show a great
decrease (though they exceeded the arrivals), viz. 2,320 left.
The following table will show the difference in these years.

Departures in 1866 2,815

1867 3,398

1868 2,544

1869 2,320

The precise number of Indian Creoles now in the colony
cannot be accm'ately ascertained, but an idea may be derived
of the pace at which they are increasing by the fact that the
births in the Indian population during the last ten years give
an average of more than 6,000 per annum.

There are 223 sugar estates in the Island, the total Indian

474

VAGRANTS.

[Ch. XXVIII.

population of which has been represented by the stipendiary

magistrates to be as follows :-

Adults

Children under ten

M.

F.

Total.

71,906

2.5,710

97,616

12,773

12,060

24,81^3

84,679 37,770 122,449

The vagrants were formerly a serious grievance, but laws for
the suppression of vagrancy have now been for some time in
force, and appear to be working satisfactorily. The complaints

CREOLE SITTINU.

of masters against servants, and vice versa, have increased of late
years. Those of the former were principally for unlawful absence
and desertion ; those of the latter for arrears of wages.

The great irregularity of the payment of wages has been
due to the severe financial crisis the colony has been passing
through. Such heavy arrears were due on some estates that it
necessitated the intervention of the Procureur-General and the
Protector of immigrants (Mr. Beyts). A more satisfactory
state of things is, however, now prevalent, and by the latest
reports scarcely any estate is now more than three months in
arrear.

CH. XXVI 1 1.]

HOME-SICKNESS.

475

Another change for the better I see is going on. Formerly,
few if any women could be got to work on estates, but during
the last year 993 were engaged in agricultural work.

On thirty plantations schools are established that give instruc-
tion to 1,092 pupils, nine-tenths of whom are boys. As the
Indians when they choose to learn are a quick-witted race, this
must tell well on the next generation.

It appears that the principal part of the arrivals during 1869
were from Madras and Calcutta. Owing to the establishment

INDIAN WOMAN.

of large cotton and other factories, the demand for labour has
been so great that emigration thence has for the time ceased.

It seems that Indians get home-sickness as well as the rest of
the world. Large numbers present themselves daily to be inva-
lided and sent back to India. So determined are they when
once they have this idea, that if they are refused they will work
it out even if it cost their life. The Inspector says : ' An
Indian, if bent on return to India, though possibly, nay probably,
only for a visit, will starve, vagabondise till he is arrested as a
vagrant, and then tamper with his eyes, irritating them with
lime and other substances, till he frequently loses his sight ; or
will irritate any little scratch till it becomes an ulcer of so ma-
lignant a form as to end in amputation, or death. Should he

4/6

CASTES.

[Ch. XXVI II.

survive he returns to the depot a most pitiable object, and with
i^reat need of invaliding.

INDIAN MAN.

INDIAN WOMAN.

The accompanying account of some of the principal of the
immerous castes into which Indians are divided was sent me by

Ch. XXVIII.] INDIANS. 477

an intelligent Indian merchant, and may interest those far away
from India and its strange people.

The following tables will give an idea of the classes of men
employed by contract, and the average amount of wages paid
at different ages for field-labourers, artisans, domestic servants,
and others, with their general rations.

Information on Indians, communicated by an Indian.

The four grand divisions of the people of India into castes
are, the Brahmins, the Cshatryas, the Vaisyas, and the Sudras.
Let us first consider what caste is ? It is an institution by
which extraordinary distinctions are sanctioned, and at the same
time reconciled so as to preserve from disorganisation a com-
munity in which certain interests and occupations are kept in
immutable subordination. It effected a separation among cer-
tain orders of society, as if they had been of different species.
Its power was at one time immense, but it is daily on the de-
crease. Caste as existing at present is not caste as it existed
in the olden days. It has been stripped of the countless re-
strictions, numberless severities, and religious bigotry, which
foully stained it in days of old. Caste, as it exists at present, is
no more than a division of people into the higher and lower
classes. Castes are distinguished simply by the different forms
of worship, the different prayers uttered mornings and even-
ings. If Sanscrit were made the vehicle by which the prayers
of the Brahmin are to be conveyed to heaven, Tamil and Telugu
are for the rest. But what element of discord and disunion
can be found in these external differences, these differences in
ceremonies and formalities ? Have these differences conferred on
the Brahmin any weapon of torture or oppression, under which
his fellow countrymen groan, and must fall in with him ?
Nothing of the kind, and I do not see why, notwithstanding
the external differences mentioned, men of all castes ' cannot
agree in political, educational, or any other measures that effect
them all alike ; and why children of different castes cannot com-
mingle their concerns and interests, blending in a common
cause. Such considerations alone have led the educated Hindoos
in India to form themselves into associations, such as the
Bramho Somaj of India, the Veda Somaj of Madras, and the
Prathana Somaj of Bombay, with their branches in the interior.

+78

CLASSES EMPLOYED IN 1868. [Ch. XXVI II.

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Ch. XXVIII.l AVERAGE RATE OF WAGES, ETC,

479

Statement showing the present average Rate of Wages and
Allowances of Agricultural Labourers, Tradesmen, Artisans
AND Domestic Servants.

First : Ordinary/ Agricultural Lahourei'S.

New Immigrants

Age

Wages per
Month

Rations

lbs.

From ten to eleven years inclusive.
„ twelve to fourteen ,,

,, fifteen to seventeen ,,
,, eighteen years and upwards

5
6

7
& 9

rice per diem
or maize pounded
or manioc (cooked)
or ,, raw
Dholl per mensem,
salt fish ,,

ghee, or oil „
salt

Old Immigrants

Age

Wages per

Month

g

a

s
S

^

0

a

tao
2

c

i

^

<

Rations

lbs.

From ten to eleven years inclusive
,, twelve to fourteen .,

,, fifteen to seventeen ,,

,, eighteen years and upwards

shd

shd

shd

4

10

7

6

12

9

8

14

11

12

18

15

1

rice per diem
or maize pounded
or manioc (cooked)
or „ raw
Dholl per mensem
salt fish ,,
ghee, or oil „
salt

Peviarks. — Very few receive maize or manioc instead of rice.

48o

AVERAGE RATE OF WAGES, ETC. [Ch. XXVIII.

Secondly : Tradesmen, Artisans, Domestic Servants.

Carpenters
Joiners .
Cartwri gilts
Blacksmiths
Coopers ,
Tinsmiths
Farriers
Harness mnkei
Painters or Gl
Masons
Stone cutters
Sawyers
Timber squax'e
Tobacconii?ts
Gardeners
Cooks
Table servants
Coachmen
Grooms .
Tailors ,
"Washermen
Sugar makers
Mill drivers
Sailors .
Jewellers

'S

iziers

Wages per Month

Old Immigrants

Minimum Maximum

0 14
0 11

10
10

0 15
0 11

1

0

0

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1

0

1

3

1

0

0

10

0

4

0

15

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2

0

15

0

9

d.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0

Average

0 1

1 2
0 12

17
0

14
9

s. d.

0 0

0 0

6 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

12 0

16 0

0 0

0 0

6 0
14 0

0 0

0 0

8 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

7 0
14 0

0 0

0 0

18 0

. 8 0

0 0

6'. d.

0 0

0 0

10 0

5 6

5 0

0 0

17 0

3 0

8 6

10 0

15 0

16 0

18 0
8 0

19 0

16 0

4 6

Kice per mensem

Dholl

Salt fish .,

Ghee, or oil ,,

Salt

Minimum

Maximum

Average

30
2
2
1
1

104

1

67

j>

5

»>

5

5'

1

8

1

Q

For the last two years, no requisitions have been received for Artisans or
Domestic Servants.

Ch. XXVIII.] THE VEDA. 481

The object of these Somajens is, ' the establishment of universal
brotherhood irrespective of all prejudices, national and sectarian,
and the obtainment of religious freedom by bringing back
Hindoos from idolatry to a true faith.' The rules of the Veda
Somaj are as follows : —

' I shall worship through love of Him and the performance of
the work He loveth — the Supreme Being, the Creator, the
Preserver, the Destroyer, the Griver of Salvation, the Omniscient,
the Omnipotent, the Blissful, the Grood, the Formless, the One
only without a second, and none of the created objects, subject
to the following conditions : I shall labour to compose and
gradually bring into practice a ritual agreeable to the spirit of
pure Theism, and free from the superstitions and absm'dities
which at present characterise Hindoo ceremonies. In the mean-
time I shall observe the ceremonies now in force, but only in
cases where ceremonies are indispensable, as in marriages and
funerals, or where their omission will do more violence to the
feelings of the Hindoo community, than is consistent with the
proper interests of the Veda Somaj as in Sastras. And I shall
go through such ceremonies, where they are not conformable to
pure Theism, as mere matters of routine, destitute of all religious
significance, as the lifeless remains of a superstition which has
passed away.'

To attempt to furnish a detailed and correct account of the
different races of the Indian population is no easy task. Deep
research and careful inquiry are necessary to render any satisfac-
tory information on the points requiring elucidation. But, so
far as Southern India or the presidency of Madras is concerned,
I may assert that representatives of all castes and races are to
be found in the colony, namely, from the divine Brahmin to the
degraded Pariah. It must be remarked here, that, with rare
exceptions, the ignorant and the worst characters alone come
out to this place. These men, either from their intercourse with
foreigners or from the freedom they enjoy here in the use of
brandy, and other alcoholic spirits (the use of which is strictly
prohibited among the higher classes of people in India, and the
eating and drinking particular kinds of food are the chief among
deadly sins which subject the perpetrator to the loss of caste),
have thrown aside their original habits of cleanliness, and have
adopted theoretically European habits in respect to dressing

482 CONVERTS. [Ch. XXVIII

and eating, but no improvement is perceptible in their intel-
lectual and moral character.

A few Hindoos have embraced Christianity, more from curiosity
and associations than from any actual appreciation of its high
principles of morality and religious obligations. Others who
have saved a fortune either by semi-starvation, or by strict
economical use of their gains, and who still persist in the pre-
servation and practice of their old superstitious habits and
customs, notwithstanding their long residence in the colony,
take a pride in bringing up their children after Creole fashion,
by giving a smattering of education in French and English :
and when such children attain to their age, they are inclined,
against the will and consent of their parents, to marry a Creole
young man or Creole young woman, as the case may be ; while
their parents wish them to marry their own kinsmen and kins-
women, either in the colony or expected from India. These
boys and girls desire Creole connections simply because they
associate with that class of people from their infant days, and
whose language they have adopted, neglecting altogether a know-
ledge of their own mother tongue, which is neither imparted in
government schools nor by their own parents, most of whom
are themselves ignorant and perhaps not even able to sign their
names. Hence convivial mingling and inter-marriages (which
are prohibited in India, and the introduction of which is thought
by the educated Indian public of the day as a stepping-stone
for the removal of that ' monster evil ' caste) are in daily prac-
tice here without any appreciation of its advantages, inasmuch
as the parties in general are of no intelligence, position, and
influence in Indian society. Inter-marriages have tended to
produce bad results ; in fact, the morality of the Indian com-
munity, including men and women, is not worthy of imitation.
A respectable Hindoo lady would no doubt be ashamed to reside
in the colony, and a residence for some time would 'taint her
morals and reputation, such is the vicious company she will
have to keep. In a word, the Indians in Mauritius, though
they have partially overcome caste prejudices, as above men-
tioned, yet have little concern for their intellectual, moral,
and social improvement ; nor do they care about the public
rights and privileges, which as citizens they can enjoy under
British G-overnment. They have lost almost all the noble

Ch. XXVIIL] HEATHEN SCHOOLS. 483

qualities, such as bravery, patriotism, love of liberty, true ambi-
tion, and self-respect. Their chief aim is to make money,
either by honest or foul means, without any sense of self-respect.

There are a few heathen schools here and there, and the
education given in them is of a secular character, consisting of
Tamil and English. The standard is very low, and in fact the
teachers themselves are not able to impart more than an ele-
mentary education, and that too in an imperfect manner. They
are therefore next to nothing. Hence it is necessary that the
Grovernment should direct their attention towards improving
the Indian character by opening fresh schools to impart Ver-
nacular and English education of a more useful kind than t^iey
are imparting at present. With these remarks, I shall briefly
describe the caste, religion, and habits of the population of
Southern India, who are also to be found in the colony.

Of Brahmins and Gshatryas little need be said, as it is a
notorious fact, that the duty of the former is to perform
Sacerdotal functions, and that they subsist on alms. Sacred
books relate the miraculous powers exerted by them in drying
up the sea, vomiting fire on their enemies, &c., and as such
they once enjoyed, and in some places do still enjoy, a rank
almost equal to divinity. The Cshatryas, or the military class
during the era of Hindoo independence, were not only great
warriors, but even kings were chosen from this body. They
are now in a state of depression. Very few of these two caste-
men are to be found in the colony.

Vaisyas, or traders dealing in different commodities, are
divided into several sub-divisions according to the nature of their
business. By tradition we hear that the Brahmins, Cshatryas
and Vaisyas are strict vegetarians, but the Vaisyas now eat
animal food. These are generally known by the name of Chetty
or Chettiar ; such as Caniety Chetty, Bari Chetty, and Telugu
Chetty. Oil-mongers who profess to belong to the Vaisya caste
are to be found here in immense numbers, most of them carry-
ing on trade.

Sudras. — The original occupation of this caste is agricul-
tural labour, yet certain people, forming sub-divisions, exercise
various trades and handicrafts. Grreat exclusiveness prevails
:imong these classes. They will not even eat their meals in the

484 CLANS OR CLASSES. [Ch. XXVIII.

presence of each other. Their employments are transmitted by
hereditary descent from father to son.

The VeUalers, whose language is Tamil, are of different
grades. Their occupations are chiefly the cultivation of the
earth, and trade. They worship Seva. Most of them are
vegetarians. The vegetarians or Sival never keep their mus-
taches. The Vellalers are known by the appellation of Moodel-
liar or Pillay. Some of them are rich landed proprietors, and
are of a charitable disposition.

Naicks and Recldies. — Their language is Telugu. Occupation,
cultivators. They worship Vishnu. There seems but little
difference between Naicks and Eeddies. They are tall, muscular,
and well made, and are the finest class of men ; they make
excellent soldiers. They use all animal food, saving the cow.
The males, like the Vellalers, wear a pigtail or ' Kudumay,' and
on the death of parents shave this as well as mustaches, in
token of mourning. A singular custom exists among the
Reddies as regards marriage. A young woman of fifteen or twenty
years of age may be married to a boy of five or six years. She,
however, lives with some other adult male, perhaps a maternal
uncle or cousin, but is not allowed to form a connection with
the father's relatives ; occasionally it may be the boy husband's
father himself, that is, the woman's father-in-law! Should
there be children from these liasons, they are fathered on the
boy husband.

When the boy grows up, the wife is either old or past child-
hearing, when he in his turn takes up with some ' boy's ' wife
in a manner precisely similar to his own, and procreates children
for the boy husband.

The Yerkalas or Koravers. — A wild tribe of India : they eat
flesh meats of all kinds, in which they are by no means nice. The
jungle herbs, roots, and fruits also furnish them with food. The
majority of them pretend to fortune-telling, to which men and
women are addicted. They also take to basket, mat, and wooden
comb-making ; for the former two they use the mid ribs and
leaves of the date palm, and occasionally work as coolies. Some-
times wealthy men of the tribe settle down in places, and engage
in cultivation. There appear to be many sub-divisions among
them, which consist in the variety of their occupations ; most of
them confine themselves to particular ones, such as firewood sellers,

Ch. XXVIII.] TRIBES. 485

salt sellers, basket makers, and coolies, &c. There is nothing
remarkable in their physical structure ; they are usually dark-
colom*ed. Their bodies are usually filthy, and as a rule they
wear nothing except a small piece of cloth. As a race they
are low in the scale of civilisation ; and while they pretend to a
show of industry during the day, there is no doubt, from the
large proportion they form as inmates of jails, that their habits
at nights are decidedly of a predatory natm-e. They form
bands of dacoits and thieves, and prefer living by theft to
honest industry.

They are said to be the most troublesome of any of the
wanderers. A similar tribe under the name of Oopoo Floraver
is found in South Arcot.

Their language seems to be a medley of Tamil and Telugu.
They have rude ideas of religion, and will worship any Hindoo
deity ; their old men are the priests of their community. Most
of them have some household god, which they carry about with
them in their constant travels. Polygamy prevails amongst
them, and the number of wives is according to the means of the
husband : the marriage string is tied round the neck of the
wife. ^

Marriages are only contracted between adults. The ceremony
is usually conducted on a Sunday, preceded by a poojah on the
Saturday. Eice mixed with tumeric is bound on the heads of
the married couple, and when the marriage string is tied the
ceremony is complete. Marriages within certain degrees of
relationship are not allowed, and widow re-marriages are not
permitted ; they may occasionally live in concubinage. A cus-
tom prevails among them by which the first two daughters of a
family may be claimed by the maternal uncle as wives for his
sons.

The value of a wife is fixed at twenty pagodas. The maternal
uncle's right to the two first daughters is valued at eight out
of twenty pagodas, and is carried out thus. If he ui'ges his
claim, and marries his own sons to his nieces, he pays for each
only twelve pagodas, and similarly, if he, from not having sons,
or any other cause, forego his claim, he receives eight pagodas
of the twenty paid to the girl's parents by any one else who
may marry them. There is a kind of clanship among these
people. Each gang comprises many distinct families, each

Ll

+86

TRIBES.

[Ch. XXVIII.

having their own family names ; and, like the Hindoos, they
form undivided families.

Woclders. — These are tank diggers, and are common through-
out the country. They engage in the carrying trade, but more
frequently move about from place to place in search of work.
Besides Telugu, they have a peculiar dialect among themselves.
They have nothing peculiar about their rites and ceremonies.
Widow re-marriage is permitted. Occupation, labourers. There
are some fine, well-made men among the tribe.

Liihhays are to be found in large numbers, chiefly between
Pulicat on the north, and Negapatam on the south ; their head-
quarters being near Nagore, near Xegapatam, the biuial-place

INDIAN WOMAN AND CHILD.

of their patron saint, Nagore Meera Saib, to whose shrine
numerous pilgrimages are made by the tribe. They are be-
lieved to be the descendants of Mohammedans and Hindoos, and
are supposed to have come into existence during the Mohamme-
dan conquest, when numbers of Hindoos were forcibly converted
to the Mohammedan faith. They are followers of Mahomet, and
practise circumcision. Physically they are a good-looking race,
tallish, of light complexion, and well-developed limbs. They are
generally attired in Loongees (cloths loosely fastened round the

Ch. XXVI 1 1.] TRIBES. 487

waist, and extending below the knees) ; they also wear bright-
coloured jackets, occasionally turbans ; the most frequent
head-gear being a skull cap fitting closely to a shaved head.

Like Mussulmans they live freely on animals and vegetables,
making use of all kinds of flesh meats, saving pork, for which
they have a religious abhorrence. Their language is Tamil,
though some talk a little Hindoostanee. They are exceedingly
industrious and enterprising in their habits and piusuits, there
being hardly a trade or calling in which they do not try to
succeed. They make persevering fishermen and good boatmen.
They are lapidaries, weavers, dyers, mat makers, jewellers,
gardeners, bazaarmen, grocers, boat-makers and owners, and
merchants. As regards the leather and horn trade, they excel
as merchants ; in short, there are few classes of natives in
Southern India who in energy, industry, and perseverance can
compete with the Lubbays.

Maravers. — These are believed to be descendants of lineal
representatives of the Pandean dynasty.

The Maravers are a robust, hardy race. They are believed to
be, by birth and profession, thieves and robbers, and have been
from time immemorial employed as village watchmen, for which
service they are paid in kind by the villagers for the protec-
tion of their property. They are true to their trust in their
own village, but at night form large gangs, with a view of
pillaging villages in remote places. If thwarted in their designs
on these occasions, they become reckless, and frequently commit
murder. To avoid being taken, they divest themselves of
clothing, and oil their skins freely. They are prone to
Hindooism ; they make use of all flesh meats, except beef.
They seldom cover their heads : the few that do so simply tie a
long coloured handkerchief about the head. In their marriages
difference of age, or the absence of the bridegroom, is of no conse-
quence. The ceremony is contracted by the friends and relatives
of either party, without the consent of the individual himself,
and a block of wood is employed as proxy for the absent groom ;
and who, should he be absent from the village, knows nothing
of the rite until his return, when he finds a wife to receive him.
The rules of the tribe enforce the acceptance of the wife selected
for him without his knowledge and consent. But these mar-
riages are as readily dissolved as they are contracted ; all that

488 TRIBES. [Ch. XXVIII.

is necessary being for the dissentient party to cut the mar-
riage string or thalee, and all is over. The man is bound to
support his children. Their religion is a species of demonology
and the worship of evil spirits, to whom bloody sacrifices are
offered occasionally. There are devil dances, and these are intro-
duced especially dming the prevalence of cholera and small-pox,
when the whole village is thrown into a state of excitement.

Shanars. — These are believed to be emigrants from Ceylon,
from whence they migrated, and found their way into Madura
and Tinnevelly, bringing with them the Palmyra palm seeds ; and,
having obtained the sandy wastes of these district coasts, they
began cultivation. Their language is Tamil ; and a very large
proportion, more than one half, are either Protestant or Eoman
Catholic Christians, whilst their heathen fellows practise demon-
ology, with its attendant bloody offerings and devil dances ;
when one or more become possessed with the devil, and get
quite excited with their gestm'es, and are consulted by the
people as to their fortunes. At present their chief occupation
consists in attending to and collecting the juice of the palms.
They are very timid and superstitious people.

Sembadaver, — These people live along the sea-coast, and
follow the occupation of fishing. They own a number of boats,
and proceed several miles out to sea before daylight ; they return
again about noon ; they use nets, hooks, and lines. They are
nominally Roman Catholics in creed. They certainly observe
the Sabbath. As a race, they are addicted to drink, and are
dissolute in their habits.

Suckilier or Chucklers. — These are considered low in the
social scale, and form a sub-division of the Pariahs. They eat
all kinds of animal food, and are particularly partial to horse-
flesh, and will carry away and devour all diseased carcases of
horses. In some places they, like the Pariahs, claim as their
peculiar perquisite all cows, buffaloes, horses, and tattoos that
have died of disease in their vicinity, over which they quarrel,
the quarrel sometimes ending in murder. As a class, they are a
dissolute, disorderly body, given to intoxication, and carry out
the functions of hangmen in all stations where individuals are
legally executed.

Knller. — These people profess themselves to be of superior
caste than Maravers, though their habits, manners, religion,

Ch. XXVIII.] TRIBES. 489

and occupation are identical with those of Maravers. Of these
there are a few in the southern districts of the Madras presidency
possessed of extensive landed property.

Yanadies, Lumhadies, and Dombras or Jugglers, are of the
same class as Yerkalies or Koravers, viz. wild tribes, but they
only differ from each other as regards occupation.

Shader, Shanier, and Kykalaveer. — These people, though
divided into different classes, still all of them are weavers by
occupation, and inclined to Hindooism. Their language is
Tamil and Telugu.

Pattoonoalkarer. — These are silk manufacturers. There is
nothing peculiar in their habits and manners. They are Hindoos,
and they have a dialect of their own.

Cunnadier. — There are divisions and sub-divisions among
this class of people, following several trades and callings. Some
of them are priests, performing certain rites and ceremonies
on funeral occasions among lower castes of Sudras ; whereas
such ceremonies among higher class Sudras are performed by
the Brahmins. And a few live solely by selling curd, which
they carry on their heads in large earthen pots to towns and
places of public gathering for sale. Their language is Kanna-
dum, a language in which all the revenue accounts were kept
in the Madras Presidency, and which formed a branch of study
in the Presidency College ; but it has lately been discontinued,
since the system of keeping the official accounts in that lan-
guage was abolished.

Padyachy, Gownden, and Fully. — These are a sub-division
of the Sudra caste. Their occupation is tillage. They are held
to be somewhat low in the social scale. Those residing in towns
take the title of Moodelliars and Naicks so as to conceal their
real caste, as also to avoid the degradation they would other-
wise be subjected to.

Janapper. — Another sub-division of the Sudra caste. They
are generally ignorant, and deal in crockery, gunny bags, and
tarpaulin. Some of them are hawkers, and others work as
coolies. These are also held low in the social scale. They live
on all animal food, saving the cow, but they are partial to ban-
dicout flesh.

Nathaman. — These are a class of Roman Catholic Christians
converted from Hindooism, who still retain certain habits and

490 TRIBES. [Ch. XXVIII.

customs peculiar to the Hindoos. Their language is Tamil and
Telugu.

Puller and Pariah. — These are by birth a degraded class,
but of no caste. They are employed in the meanest oflSces, such
as scavengers, and the rudest description of country labour.
They usually dwell without the walls of the cities and villages,
which present a disgusting sight. The touch, or even the close
approach, of them is considered as a pollution by caste men.
In Malabar a Nayror noble is legally authorised to kill a Pariah
approaching his august presence.

CHAPTEK XXIX.

SUGAR AND THE SUGAR-CANE.

Its History — Mode of Culture — Parasites that attack it — Its Manufacture —
Amount exported and monetary Value — Dr. Icery's Process.

As Mauritius produces about one-nintli of the sugar grown in
the whole world, it deserves a special mention ; and perhaps a
slight sketch of its early history may not be without interest.

The best authorities of ancient and modern times lead to the
conclusion that China was the first to cultivate the cane and
manufacture sugar, and that its use was known there two thou-
sand years before its adoption by Europeans.

Slowly the culture of the cane made its way to India, Arabia,
and Egypt. The Phoenicians are supposed to have taken it to
Greece, and the early Greek writers mention it as ' Indian
salt.'

Its progress amongst civilised nations was very slow, on
account of the jealousy of Indian cultivators, who feared the
secret of its culture and manufacture spreading to the West ;
also from the merchant vessels, in the early ages of navigation,
being of such small dimensions, that sugar was too bulky an
article for freight — the trader naturally seeking for the least
weighty, and most profitable, articles of commerce.

It would be too long to trace its gradual introduction into
different countries ; suffice it to say, that in the thirteenth cen-
tury it was planted in Sicily, and the king, William II., gave
the monks of St. Bennet a mill for grinding the canes ; but the
sugar made was greatly inferior to that of the East.

In 1420, Dom Henry, Eegent of Portugal, introduced it into
the Madeiras and Canaries, with great success. After the dis-
covery of America, it spread with such surprising rapidity, that
in 1518 the proceeds of the port duties on sugar imported

492 SUGAR, [Ch. XXIX.

from Hispaniola were so enormous, that the magnificent palaces
of Madrid and Toledo were erected from them. In 1520, St.
Thomas had sixty sugar manufactories, and made 4,650,000 lbs.
annually.^

In 1644, the English began to increase the manufactories
in their possessions, and refining sugar was well known and
practised at that period. It was, however, rarely used in Eng-
land then, except for medicines, or as an article of extreme
luxury, first, on account of its dearness, and, secondly, from a
prejudice against it, as possessing unwholesome properties if
taken in any but the smallest quantities.^

In the early part of the eigliteenth century, the sugar-cane
was introduced by Mahe de Labom'donnais into the Isle of
France. It was with difficulty he could succeed in inducing the
inhabitants to attend to its culture. Cloves, indigo, coffee, cotton,
and different cereals so occupied the planters, that it was long
before sugar took its place as an article of supreme importance
for exportation. When once it had gained the palm, everything
else gradually succumbed to it, and for years it has reigned
paramount in Mauritius, not one of the above-named articles
being now grown for commerce. The soil of this Island has
proved remarkably propitious tc the culture of the canes.
Vast sums have been expended in procuring the best machines
that Em'ope could produce, and the most skilful English and
French engineers. Labour at great cost has been brought from
India ; no expense has been spared ; and this little colony, in
the year 1863, produced 122,432 tons of sugar of very superior
quality, perhaps equal to any in the world, and commanded the
best prices.

But, since that period, a general decadence has taken place,
from a combination of unfortunate circmnstances, such as
droughts, fever, cyclones, and others, over which the planter
had no control ; and again, from those that result from over-
taxing the energies of the land, faulty manuring, and other
causes, within his own power to remedy, and to which planters
generally are growing very wide awake.

* I am partially indebted for the above information to some stray leaves given
to me of a large book on the sugar-cane. I know not the author, but should he
be amongst my readers, and able to claim some of the remarks as his own, I beg
him to accept my best thanks for them.

* This Island is no longer a sugar-producing one.

Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR. 493

The yield since the above-mentioned period has been gra-
dually less, till in 1868 it fell to 70,000 tons.

The cyclone of March 1868 put the climax to the distress
long felt on every plantation ; the violence of the wind pros-
trated and otherwise damaged the canes to a great extent.
They were in a weakly state, and the roots not strong enough
to give to the wind ; and I found, on a careful examination of
some of the injured plants, that the spongioles of the radicles
were greatly hurt.

They were, however, apparently resuscitated by the con-
tinuous rains that fell soon after, and they appeared restored to
more than ordinary vigour and luxuriant vegetation. The
planters all looked forward to heavy crops, to make up their
deficiencies, and the damage done to their mills and other
buildings by the cyclone. When the time of the coupe (as the
crop season is called here) arrived, dire was the disappointment.
Abundance of juice was given, but it contained less than
ordinary of saccharine matter.' I can well imagine the anxiety
with which all looked to the results of the coupe. Many a once-
wealthy planter, as he watched the work go on day by day,
must have felt his last hope die out of saving the property on
which he had bestowed so many years of labour and expense.
Already heavily burthened with debt, accumulating at com-
pound interest, nothing was left but bankruptcy. During the
last three years, many of the finest and oldest estates have passed
away from their original proprietors, and been brought to the
hammer, and, I fear, many more will be before this crisis be past.

The simple plant that is the cause of so much anxiety to thou-
sands of growers, buyers, and sellers ; that has slain its hecatombs
of victims, before the abolition of the slave trade ; that, from its
valuable qualities, has become an item of the highest impor-
tance in the commerce of all nations ; for which the brains of
men of the highest intellectual order have been racked to pre-
pare the costliest machines for extractingitsluscious juice— this

• One writer on the sugar-cane says, ' The soil most favourable to the sugar-
cane is a rich and moist, but not a wet one. An excess of soluble mineral consti-
tuents in the soil is said to prevent the maturation of the cane, and it certainly
has the effect of introducing into its juice soluble salts which injure the sugar and
diminish the yield.' From January 1868 to May the rainfall was in such excess,
that it doubtless caused a failure in the yield from the reasons given in the above
note.

494 SUGAR CULTURE. [Ch. XXIX.

simple plant belongs to the large natural order of the Gramineae
or grasses. It is the Saccharwin oficinai^um, also called Arundo
saccharifera, an endogen, or inwardly developing plant. ^

There appear to be three chief stocks from which most of
the varieties now cultivated in Mauritius are derived — viz. the
Creole, originally indigenous to India, the Batavian, and Ota-
heitan.

The principal sorts most in favom: at the present day are :
the white and red belloguet, the white diard, white-striped and
red bamboo, white renang and guinghan. The latter canes,
being harder, require, of com'se, stronger machinery to crush
them, and, coming to maturity all at once, require to be cut
down with great expedition ; and this, again, exacts a superior
plant to work it through rapidly.

The canes attain ordinarily from ten to fourteen feet in height,
and three to six inches in circumference, according to the kind
or favourable soil.

The cane, as in all reeds, has a knotty stalk, and at each knob
a joint, or leaf.

The number of joints on the stalk varies from thirty to forty.
The roots are very slender, seldom more than a foot long, with
a few fibres at their extremities.

The cane requires from ten to twenty months after planting to
arrive at maturity.

It is cultivated either by planting the top of the cut cane, or
by allowing the parent stole to put forth new ones, and to form
new ratoons.

In both cases the new canes are derived from buds, which are
situated on the alternate sides of the cane at the joints. The
buds at the lower and upper extremities of the cane retain the
power of vegetation the longest, the former being protected by
the earth, and the latter by the tuft of leaves at the top, from
drought. Every joint of the cane and stole contains all the
organs necessary for an entire plant.

The wood exists in the body of the cane in long tubular cells,

' I have collected the above information from the best authorities on the sugar-
cane ; amongst others, I would mention the pamphlets by Messrs. Antelme, Bouton,
Autard de Bragard, and Dr. F. Guthrie. I am also under obligations to the
courtesy of many gentlemen owning and belonging to different estates, and other-
wise connected with the staple product of the Island.

Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR FIELDS. 495

which extend from joint to joint. Their form is hexagonal,
and their function to hold the cane juice. Towards the circum-
ference, these cells become flatter, and their capacity less. They
form at last a hard, compact, woody envelope. The quantity
of wax and silica gives to the rind its peculiar hardness and
power to repel water.

Mauritius offers everywhere to the eye spacious cane fields,
with here and there the long chimneys rising high above the
surrounding buildings, that generally lie embowered in a grove
of trees, often the only ones visible for miles.

The forests, which formerly covered the Island to the water's
edge, even close to Port Louis, have gradually disappeared, a
few only remaining in the interior. Strict laws have long been
in existence for the preservation of the forests, but they do not
seem to have been enforced much. As wood and charcoal are
the only things used as fuel, the destruction is still going on.

Could Labourdonnais see his much-loved isle in the present
day, he would scarcely recognise any part of it. Where once
stood the monarchs of the forest are now fields of waving canes,
or arid plains, every stream long dried up. Through districts
only intersected then by cattle tracks are now wide roads, and
over them rush the railway trains bearing their freights of the
precious substance to be shipped to all parts of the world. All is
changed, and by the very people he fought so bravely to keep from
getting a footing in the Isle of France — by them have all his
hopes and plans been brought to fruition. Unlike many other
sugar-growing countries, in Mauritius the planter is also the
manufactm-er of sugar, which multiplies tenfold the difficulty
of the administration of an estate.^

The first operations when a field is marked out for cultivation
are to extirpate all weeds, root up old stocks, and lift away the
rocks and stones which more or less encumber all ground, and
place them in even rows.

Between these at set distances, about eighteen or twenty
inches apart, holes are dug twelve inches and a half deep,
eighteen long, and eight wide.

Generally before planting, about ten or twelve pounds of well-

' For the same man to grow the cane, crush it, boil the juice, and make tlie
sugar, points to a system as relatively imperfect as that when the farmer is alsc
the miller and baker.

496 PLANTING, [Ch. XXIX.

decomposed stable manure are placed in each hole, and pressed
down by the feet of the labom-er, when it is covered with a light
layer of earth.

The cuttings are made from the five or six tender joints or
knobs nearest the heart of the cane ; two, three, or four of
which are put into each hole, according to the locality or
season.

The best months for planting are December, January, Feb-
ruary, and March.

In the quarters most exposed to droughts, after planting, the
holes are filled up with dried leaves or grass, to protect the yoimg
shoots from the ardour of the sun.

The cuttings are placed lengthwise in the holes, taking care
that the eyes of each are turned in opposite directions, so as not
to impede each other's growth.

At the expiration of the time necessary for the shooting of
the canes, the dead, fermented, and those with sickly buds are
replaced by fresh ones.

The cuttings of the virgin or first canes are preferred, as being
more healthy than those of the second.

To free the canes, before planting, from the insects that infest
them, they are plunged from ten to twelve hours in a mixture
of phoenique or carbolic acid and water — an infallible re-
medy.

Sometimes manuring is done after planting, but then the
litter is placed between the rows of canes, or in a circular trench
dug round the stocks of the young plants.

But all this is only a slight portion of the work required in
sugar culture.

Then comes the clearing the young canes of the weeds and
runners which invade them, and pioching up the earth so as to
render it permeable to air and water.

The weeds grow with such marvellous rapidity, that the
planters are obliged to watch the tender canes with the greatest
care. The number of clearings depends on the soil, climate,
and nature of the weeds on various estates. The different earths
are divided into the rocky and free (to use a colonial expression).
Nearly the whole of the land of Mauritius on the littoral is
rocky, in fact to such an extent in some parts, that, with the
stones cleared off them, walls frc m two to four feet high are

Ch. XXIX.] CULTIVATION, 497

raised between the rows of canes ; yet they are of the greatest
fertility, very porous, and easily imbibing water, and yielding-
good crops with proper manurings and rest.

The free earths are not, as their name would intimate, desti-
tute of rocks, but are only less enciunbered than the rocky.
These lands lie more in the interior, except in some parts of
Savane and Grrand Port, where they extend to the sea-shore.
Loose volcanic, rocky debris and stones are found from the
coast to the tops of the mountains.

Constant turning up is required in the free soils, for the in-
troduction of air, and to decompose the vegetable matter in the
earth. In some places a plough might be advantageously used
in planting, but it has not yet been adopted I believe.

The stables and cattle folds are the two great sources of
manm'e for the plantations ; and the heads and leaves of the
canes employed as food or litter afford them ample materials.

Except in the more hiunid localities where wood is plentiful,
all the sugar houses employ bagasse^ and cane leaves as fuel
Every plantation has then a great quantity of ashes, which wher
retm'ned to the earth form its most valuable renovator. One o)
the principal planters writes, ' Long experience has shown that
the ashes ought to be previously mixed with vegetable matter in
fermentation ; and when the skimmings of sugar are added, and
the fibrils of the bagasse, they act promptly and energetically
on the canes.'

This appears to me most sensible advice ; but unfortunately
too many take away everything from the soil, returning little
to it of the actual ingredients required to give the juice the
proper quantity of saccharine matter.

Of late years the most prominent place as a renovator has
been held by guano. Its stimulating properties increase the
production twofold for a time, and it has made the fortune of
many planters.

In the end it is like killing the goose for her eggs, for it is
certain loss eventually, when injudiciously used, as too many
have akeady found in their failing crops.

The above-mentioned writer says, and most correctly, ' Inva-
luable as guano undoubtedly is, its analysis proves it does not

' Bagasse is the word applied in Mauritius to designate the fibrous and spongj
parts left from the canes that have passed through the mill.

498 FERTILISERS. [Ch. XXIX.

contain all the mineral substances that enter into the compo-
sition of the cane ; therefore, it is certain that those planters
who do not restore to the soil the ashes and other debris of the
cane, will find the fertility of their lands gradually diminish.'
This is so true that already in many localities exhaustion has
set in.

Nearly 1 30,000Z. annually are spent in guano, and, according
to one autliority, two-thirds of that quantity are wasted, from
the guano possessing an amount of extraneous matter, such as
nitrogen, &c., which is not required at all, and is therefore
so much waste. So many cheaper manures may be had, posses-
sing all the ingredients required by the cane.

When there is such a waste daily going on in the city of Port
Louis, of matter enough to enrich every plantation in the
Island, it is a pity some intelligent practical man does not set
about what would be the greatest benefaction to the colony as
well as boundless profit to himself.

Never was any place in such a deplorable state as to its sewage.
Though efforts have been lately made to put things on a more
decent footing than formerly, yet all in connection with this
question is wofuUy behind the age.

I believe that a proper system of sewage would not only soon
defray all expenses of the present plan of draining the city, but
it would soon save the ISO.OOOL, now paid for guano, to the
c Dlony.

I see by a late paper that the Metropolitan and Essex Eeclama-
tion Company are showing on a large scale the value of sewage
as a fertilising agent in England ; and one especial passage I
notice, ' The sewage when used is colourless, and free from taint
and odour.'

To use the sewage of Mauritius thus would, I feel sure, restore
it to its once healthy condition, for it would do away with the
greatest source of disease in the Island. But the system must
be carried on over every estate to be really beneficial, and the
planter would soon reap his profit in the increase of health and
strength in his camp.

In some parts of the Island the rainfall is sufficient for the
canes, but in those utterly denuded of forests they suffer fre-
quently from drought. Irrigation is resorted to, but in many
places it is an expensive and tedious process ; and tlie failiue ot

Ch. XXIX.] CROPS. 499

the streams in very dry weather renders it often totally im-
practicable. The leaves grow yellow and withered, and unless
the canes get rain before they are dried to a certain point a
failure of the juice is certain.

Some of the planters have well studied the advantages of a
change of crops. After the canes have yielded for two seasons,
the ground is either allowed to lie fallow or is planted with
manioc, which serves as food for the cattle ; several kinds of
peas, called ambrevades — the black pea being eaten greedily by
oxen, sheep, goats and pigs, and the yellow flowered one being
used both by men and animals ; arrowroot, which the Island
produces in abundance, the whitest and best in the world, and
maize.

Three years is the time usually given to the land between the
cane crops.

Every one who has thus carried out the system of a rotation
of crops has reaped the benefit of it.

It is a fact known by every farmer all the world over, and yet
how many planters go on, year by year, planting the same
fields, and over-manuring ; and the result is much of the misery
of the present day.

I do not doubt that the diseases in the cane have been
brought about in a great measure by the above practices.

There are two enemies the planter has had to fight against,
most deadly ones — the pou blanc as it is called here, and the
borer.

The latter, or Proceras sacchariphagus, made its appearance
in 1850. Some canes were imported from Ceylon in 1848
that were pronounced to be all attacked by a boring caterpillar,
a plague well known to exist in some parts of that island. It
was thought so dangerous to plant them that they were all
condemned. They lay however for some days under the shed
near the port office, whence it is supposed some of the cuttings
were clandestinely removed and planted at Flacq.

The man who committed such an insane act had better have
applied a torch to his plantation.

Two years after, the canes at Grrand Bale were attacked by
an insect recognised as the same as those on the Ceylon canes.

It also appeared at Labourdonnais the same year, though
then imagined to have been brought in some canes imported

500 SUGAR-CANE INSECTS, [Ch. XXIX.

from Java ; but it has since been stated that the borer is un-
known there.

The depredations of this insect were frightful, as it soon
ravaged whole plantations in every part of the Island.

When the eggs of the borer are hatched, the caterpillar
remains on the leaves until it is strong enough to attack the
cane.

It possesses two powerful mandibles, and its mouth is armed
with a lance-like instrument, which serves it to pierce the flinty
cuticle of the cane. When it has once made good its entry it
mines it with frightful rapidity, and as soon as it attacks the
heart the plant withers and dies. It is one of the most voracious
of insects.

When hatched it is only \\ line large, but at the end of
thirty-one or thirty-two days it is of the thickness of a quill. It
then begins to spin its envelope, which it lines with debris of the
cane and leaves. The chrysalis state lasts about fifteen days,
and it then emerges a fly of a reddish colour on a silver grey
ground, covered with powdery scales that fly off with every
movement of the insect.

During the next five days it lays its eggs, to the number of
1 30, and then dies.

This destructive insect has an inveterate enemy in the ant
tribe that wages continual war on it, and they, being so small, are
able to pursue wherever the borer hides. Many birds also devour
it greedily ; but, in spite of all its enemies, it has continued its
ravages even to the present day. It has partially disappeared
in some districts, but will I fear never be eradicated.

The pou blanc is of the genus Coccus, and a most destructive
insect. It will stand the highest and lowest temperatures, and
I have seen it in the three parts of the world I have visited.
There are many species of it, and all of them generally attack
sickly plants and trees. It is possible that the diseased state of the
canes in 1848, a short time previously to the appearance of this
insect, induced its ravages ; for wherever an unhealthy plant is,
there is sure to be some parasite, often one quite unknown in
the vicinity previously. The coccus on the Mauritian canes
deposits about 150 eggs under its carapace or shell. This
takes place after the female has done feeding for the season.

Some days are occupied in depositing these eggs, which are

Ch. XXIX.] CANE-INSECTS.

LA-RVA AND PUPA.

DISEASED SUGAR-CANE.

If tlie weather is favouraWe. in a few days the ,

502 THE COCCUS. [Ch. XXIX.

leaves, until they find a spot that suits them to fix themselves
for life.

They are armed with a sharp probe as long as the body,
which they insert in the young sap-wood, and suck away the
life-juices of the plant, sometimes quite destroying it.

On cutting branches that have become fibrous where these
insects have been at work, the whole medullary system seems so
deranged that circulation appears almost impossible.

This insect spreads and multiplies rapidly. It has one in-
veterate enemy, the ant, which annoys it by tickling it with its
forefeet while eating, and causing it to disgorge the juices it
has fed on, which it devours greedily, till the pou shrinks up
and dies, starved out. I gave a full description of this insect,
in a treatise I published on the vine disease in 1853.

This coccus has been very destructive in different cities of
America.

Newhaven in the United States is known as the ' City of
Elms,' from its streets and squares being planted with these
magnificent trees. They were all attacked a few years ago by
the coccus, or cotton louse as it is called there, and numbers of
them were destroyed. A reward was offered for the prevention
of this pest.

Amongst other propositions was one to scrape the trees, and
shower them with a solution of blubber oil and water, which
proved effectual in eradicating the insect from the city.

No sooner, however, had they got rid of one plague, than
another appeared. On examination, it was found that the trees
were diseased at their roots, owing partially to the gas pipes
passing close to them ; also from their inhaling the impure air
from the gases emanating from the general use of hard coal in
the city. In most of the towns of the United States the trees
sicken from the same causes.

The coccus will not attack plants and trees that are not pre-
viously in a diseased or sickly state. I will mention an instance
of this.

In front of my own residence in New York I had planted, at
great expense, many fine trees on the lawn. Among them were
some magnolias, one of which was injured in transplanting.
This tree put forth its leaves in the spring, b^it looked so sickly
that I concluded it would die in the fall. By midsummer, i\iQ tree

Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR HOUSES. 503

was covered with the cotton louse, which killed it, but none
were found on the healthy plants.

It is my conviction that the canes had been so over-stimulated
by guano, that they were in a fit state for the attacks of the
pou blanc. Wherever this exists, if the plant is examined, the
roots will be found diseased, and the medullary system filled
with a giunmy substance, which prevents the circulation.

Dm-ing the entrecoupe, the sugar houses are thoroughly
cleaned and painted, the machinery repaired, and everything put
in order ; a notable instance of which may be seen on the Labour-

CANE PLANT.

donnais estate, which I can best describe by saying that it is a
model of cleanliness and order within and without, and does
infinite credit to the manager and his staff of superintendents
and workmen.

As soon as the coupe begins, all is activity ; no time for idlers
then, and the anxiety of the proprietor is ceaseless till he sees
the returns his canes are likely to yield.

In September the canes generally arrive at maturity, but ac-
cording to locality, time of planting &c. : they are often not ripe
for cutting till October or November.

504 STATISTICS. [Ch. XXIX.

When a field is pronounced fit to cut, a third of the labourers
with a small hatchet chop ofif the canes close to the earth, another
third clear them from the leaves, and the rest pack them
upright in carts, and take them to the mill.

After many tons of canes have been cut and carted to the
sugar house, steam is put on the engine ; and if the mill is
powerful, say of 35-horse power, and rollers fifty by thirty, it
will require about twenty coolies to supply it with canes. In
the process of feeding the mill the coolies proceed in rotation
on each side of the feed-plate, fetching up a dozen or two canes
on their shoulders, pitching them in without much regard to
order, and, with one turn of the huge roller the greater part
come out on the other side crushed to dry chips, which are
carted away, and spread out in the sun to dry.

This refuse is the bagasse, and when thoroughly dried is
stacked in ricks or covered sheds for futm^e use as fuel for the
engine.

In this first process lies one great cause of loss to the planters.
Some attribute it to the use of plated rollers ; however that may
be, it is certain from some cause, in the crushing of the
canes the planter's loss is serious, said to be equal from three
to eight lbs. in the 100 lbs. of sugar. To give an instance ;
a rich proprietor has obtained by a powerful mill 4,550 lbs. of
juice from 7,500 lbs. of canes, the mean rendering being 60 to
68 per cent.

This loss is equivalent to 2,860 lbs. of sugar to an arpent.^

This planter cultivates from 700 to 800 arpents, so that he
loses the frightful quantity of from 2,002,000 lbs. to 2,288,000
lbs. yearly.

The liquor, now called Vesou, that flows from the mill (look-
ing like water disgustingly muddy) is at once conducted by
wooden or cast-iron gutters to the steam defecators of 300
gaMons each, where it is heated to boiling point.

The vesou flowing thence into the first pans of the battery,
ebullition commences in those next the fm-nace ; as it boils up at
a temperatm-e not exceeding 140°, it is constantly skimmed
and ladled from pan to pan, until relieved of its impurities.

The vesou is then run into clarifiers of the same size, where
lime is added, about 3 lbs to each 300 gallons.

' An arpent is 100 square perches, and a perch is 20 feet French.

Ch. XXIX.] SUGAR MAKING. 505

It is stirred up and then allowed to rest for fifteen or twenty
minutes, when it is drawn off and evaporated to 25° Eeaumur
in cast-iron pans.

The liquor, now designated Clairee, is sent into large cisterns,
where it remains for twenty-four hours. And thus it goes on :
as long as the mill is working the battery works too, defecating
and concentrating. The vacuum pan now comes into operation.
Steam is put on the pan, an engine with pumps for exhaustion
is set going, and, when a vacuum of 25° is attained, about
500 gallons of Clairee are admitted into the pan ; and when
once grains are formed in that quantity, more and more is
allowed to flow in as granulation takes place.

The temperatm-e of the pan is always kept at 170°, and in
about fom' hours, or less with a good pan, nearly four tons of
sugar will be taken out. The sugar runs from the pan along
wooden troughs into large shallow wooden cisterns, where it
remains from six to ten hom's for cooling, till it is ready for
the centrifugal machines called turbines, which purge and
drain the sugar.

These machines revolve at the rapid rate of about 1,200 rota-
tions per minute, and separate the syrup from the sugar, which
flows through a pipe in the side of the turbine into large vats
under the sugar house. It is then called molasses, and is sold
to the distillers for the manufacture of rum.

When the turbine is in motion a small quantity of water is
thrown in, and the sugar can be made extremely white. On
some of the estates it is made into large crystals. On leaving
the turbines the sugar is packed into gunny and Vacoa bags,
and is then ready for the market.

Many of the planters still use the wetzells, a machine far
inferior to the vacuum pan, but on all the large estates the
latter is used.

During the whole of the coupe, the air on the plantations is
filled with the powerful odour of the boiling sugar. Everywhere
you hear but the one topic, sugar, sugar, and still sugar, or
crops.

On the arrival of the monthly mail, all are eager for the
latest sugar quotations, and the first question is always. Are
sugars up or down ?

I fear Mauritius has produced more than she ever will again,

5o6

EXPORTATION OF SUGAR.

[Ch. XXIX.

and that real capital will have to be introduced in order to
carry on the plantations profitably. Most of the planters are
bankrupt, and even the few who still keep their heads above
water do so by paying enormous percentage for capital.

Annexed to this is a table of the exportation of sugar from
1812 to 1870, together with its value in pounds sterling, &c.

EXPOETATION OF SuGAR FROM 1812 TO 1869.

Sugar English Weight

Years

Sugar lbs. French

Tons

cwts.

qrs.

lbs.

1812 .

969.264

467

6

1

25

1813

549,465

264

18

1

18

1814

1,034,294

498

13

2

5

1815

2.504,957

1,207

14

3

21

1816

8,296,352

4,000

0

2

4

1817

6,583,457

3,174

3

1

9

1818

7,908,380

3,812

19

1

14

1819

5,678,888

2,738

0

2

23

1820

15,524,755

7,485

2

3

27

1821

20,410,053

9,840

11

0

25

1822

23,403,644

11,283

17

3

27

1823

27,400,887

13,211

2

3

9

1824

24,334,553

11,732

14

2

13

1825

21,739,766

10,481

13

1

23

1826

42,489,416

20,485

19

1

13

1827

40,619,254

19,584

5

2

18

1828

48,350,101

23,311

13

0

13

1829

58,431,538

28,172

6

3

25

1830

67,926,602

32,750

7

1

15

1831

70,203,676

33,848

4

0

2

1832

73,594,778

35,483

3

3

20

1833

67,482,800

32,536

7

—

1834

71,143,851

34,301

9

3

27

1835

64,876,825

31,279

17

3

23

1836

63,333,513

30,535

16

0

2

1837

68,275,065

. 32,918

6

2

22

1838

72,002,226

34,715

7

0

20

1839

68,572,979

33,061

19

1

21

1840

82,048,509

39,559

2

0

5

1841

78,969,678

38,074

13

1

8

1842

71,225,151

34,340

13

3

23

1843 .

55,026,564

26,530

13

1

5

1844

72,656,720

35,030

18

1

13

1845

87,561,994

42,217

7

3

5

1846 .

127,531,510

61,488

8

0

14

1847 .

118,291,246

57,033

5

2

9

1848 .

114,653,469

55,279

7

0

2

1849 .

133,418,250

64,326

13

0

14

1850

114,393,223

55,153

17

2

1851

138.123,365

66,595

3 j 3

14

1852 .

148,550,169

71,622

8 0

6

1853 .

190,342,546

1

91,772

5 3

25

Ch. XXIX.]

A NEW PROCESS.

507

Exportation of Sugak — continued.

\

Sugar English Weight

YEARS Sugar lbs. French

'

Tons

cwts.

qrs.

lbs.

1854 . . . i 176,116,461

84,913

• 5

3

13

1855 .

' 264,081,115

127,324

16

1

24

1856 .

i 244,667,523

117,964

13

3

24

1857

: 240,910,000

116,153

0

2

24

1858

; 246,229,138

118,717

12

1

17

1859

1 256.981,607

123,901

16

3

19

1860

i 271,807,107

131,049

17

0

11

1861

! 220,631,916

106,376

2

0

5

1862

1 268,162,551

129,292

13

0

19

1863

1 274,548,961

132,371

16

1

17

1864

. ! 233,440,106

112,551

9

2

10

1865

. j 270,026,937

130,191

11

0

19

1866

. ' 247.383,011

119,273

19

0

3

1867

200,895,816

96,860

9

2

17

1868

198,601,676

95,754 7

2

10

1869

213,766,517

1

103,065 19

3

26

1

This return represents the annual exportation of sugar from January 1 to
December 31 of each vear.

Dr. leery has invented what lie calls the mono-sulphite of
lime for purifying sugar. He gives practical instructions
for its manufacture and use. He gives a diagram of machinery
that can be easily added to the sugar-house, and the article
can be made at an extremely low price. To use Dr. Icery's
own words, 'This process consists of an altogether special
method of preparing sulphite of lime, and of applying it in
the decoloration and purification of cane juice and syrups.
The apparatus, by its solidity, its particular arrangement,
and the perfect regularity of its action, satisfies as nearly as
is possible the exigencies and usages of colonial manufacturCc
The syrups remaining from the turbinage of sugars, when
treated with mono-sulphite of lime, give most advantageous
results. Under the influence of that agent syrups become puri-
fied, decolorised, and crystallised with remarkable facility.

' Manufactured by this process, syrup sugars have a perfect
grain and fine colour ; not entirely due to the direct influence of
the substance employed, but from the purification to which the
vesou has already been submitted, and the absence in the syrup

5o8

EXPORTATION OF SUGAR.

[Ch. XXIX.

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Ch. XXIX.]

A NEW PROCESS.

509

of those foreign soluble matters which are the principal ob-
stacles to the crystallisation of sugars of the second boiling.'

' Dr. Icery's process seems to be gaining ground, and is already
employed on many estates, as it has been proved that a larger
quantity and better quality of sugar is obtained from the syrup,
in addition to which the process is more economical.

|iri!v|ff;«if|r\V\\filJi'*

THE author's dog 'QUILP.'

APPENDIX.

The following letter was sent to me by an Indian Creole, and is
about the best begging letter I ever received. It speaks for itself
without any comment of mine, so I give it verbatim, also preserving
the punctuation.

TO THE HONORABLE PRESENCE OF MISTER THE
COUNCEL OF THE AMERICAN COUNTRY.

The Humble Petition of Surwurrah.

Assured of your Benevolences and Sympathy, your needy ; most
respectfully, as well as humbly, begs to offer this small acknowledge-
ment of your great favour, and kindness in aiding him with several
good things, while he was sick on his bed with the fever.

Your Humble Petitioner is in a miserable condition at present ;
having no families or kindreds, in this Colony of Mauritius his
Father and Mother being died of the Fever, so ; as to care for him,
and keep up his things, without wasting in vain, the Benefits of his
travailes ; he thinks it necessary to marry a wife, and he has found
a good match for him, with whom he has engaged to be married on
the 25th Instant.

The, Baptised name of your Poor Petitioner is Christian, having,
no means, or influence to perform his marriage he humbly as well
as, very Confidently solicit your Honor, of your Clemency have an
eye of Sympathy, and lend him some money, which will be con-
sidered a great help to finish his marriage. He pays your Honor
now some monies of a former account, and for the money you will
lend hereafter, he can pay in 5 months. The God almighty will
reward you and, incress your Stores.

SURWUREAH.

VALUABLE AND INTERESTING

WORKS OF TRAVEL

PUBLISHED BY

HARPER & BROTHERS, I^ew York.

IW Habper & Beotueus ivill send either of the following works by mail, postage pre-
paid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price.

PIKE'S SUB-TROPICAL RAMBLES. Sub-Tropical Rambles in the Laud of the
Aphanapteryx. By Nicholas Pike, U. S. Cousul, Port Louis, Mauritius. Pro-
fusely Illustrated from the Author's own Sketches ; containing also Maps and
valuable Meteorological Charts. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $3 50.

THE LAND OF MOAB. The Result of Travels aud Discoveries on the East Side
of the Dead Sea and the Jordau. By H. B. Teistuam, M.A., LL.D., F.R.S., Master
of the Greatham Hospital, and Honorary Canon of Durham. With New Map and
Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 50.

THE DESERT OF THE EXODUS. Journeys on Foot in the Wilderness of the
Forty Years' Wanderiugs; undertaken in couuection with the Ordnance Survey
of Sinai and the Palestine Exploration Fund. By E. H. Pamiier, M.A., Lord
Almoner's Professor of Arabic, and Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge.
With Maps and numerous Illustrations from Photographs and Drawings taken
on the spot by the Sinai Survey Expedition and C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake. Crown
Svo, Cloth, $3 00.

NORDHOFF'S CALIFORNIA. California: for Health, Pleasure, and Residence. A
Book for Travellers and Settlers. Illustrated. Svo, Paper, $2 00 ; Cloth, $2 50.

SANTO DOMINGO, Past and Present, with a Glance at Hayti. By Samuel Hazaud.
Maps and Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

AROUND THE WOULD. By Edwakd D. G. Prime, D.D. With numerous Illustra-
tions. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 00.

ALCOCK'S JAPAN. The Capital of the Tycoon : a Narrative of a Three Years'
Residence in Japan. By Sir Rctuekfoiu) Alcook, K.C.B., Her Majesty's Envoy
Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary in Japan. With Maps and Engrav-
ings. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 50.

ANDERSSON'S OKAVANGO RIVER. The Okavango River: a Narrative of Travel,
Exploration, aud Adventure. By Chart.es John Andersbon. With Steel Por-
trait of the Author, numerous Woodcuts, and a Map showing the Regions ex-
plored by Andersson, Cumming, Livingstone, and Du Chaillu. Svo, Cloth, $3 25.

ANDERSSON'S LAKE NGAMI. Lake Ngami ; or. Explorations and Discoveries
during Four Years' Wanderings in the Wilds of Southwestern Africa. By Charles
John Andeksson. With numerous Illustrations, representing Sporting Adven-
tures, Subjects of Natural History, Devices for Destroying Wild Animals, &c.
12mo, Cloth, $1 75.

ATKINSON'S AMOOR REGIONS. Travels in the Regions of the Upper and Lower
Amoor, and the Russian Acquisitions on the Confines of India and China. With
Adventures among the Mountain Kirghis; aud the Manjours, Manyargs, Toun-
gous, Touzempts,Goldi, and Gelyaks ; the Hunting and Pastoral Tribes. By Thom-
as WiTLAM Atkinson, F.G.S., F.R.G.S. With a Map and numerous Illustrations.
Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

ATKINSON'S SIBERIA. Oriental and Western Siberia: a Narrative of Seven Years*
Explorations and Adventures in Siberia, Mongolia, the Kirghis Steppes, Chinese
Tartary, and Part of Central Asia. By Thomas Witlam Atkinson. With a Map
and numerous Ulustraticms. Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

BARTH'S NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA. Travels and Discoveries in North
and Central Africa. Being a Joumal of an Expedition undertaken under the
Auspices of H. B. M.'s Government, in the Years 1849-1855. By Henry Barth,
Ph.D., D.C.L. Illustrated. 3 vols., Svo, Cloth, $12 00.

BALDWIN'S AFRICAN HUNTING. African Hunting, from Natal to the Zambesi,
including Lake Ngami, the Kalahari Desert, &c., from 1S52 to ISCO. By William
Charles Baldwin, Esq., F.R.G.S. With Map, Fifty Illustrations by Wolf and
Zwecker, and a Portrait. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.

2 Valuable and Interesting Works of Travel.

BURTON'S LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA. The Lake Regions of Cen-
tral Africa. A Picture of Exploration. By Ricuard F. Burton, Captain H. M.'s
Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal Geographical Society. With
Maps and Engravings on Wood. Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

BURTON'S CITY OF THE SAINTS. The City of the Saints; and Across the
Rockv Mountains to California. By Captain Rioiiarb F. Burton, Fellow and
Gold Medalist of the Royal Geographical Societies of France and England, H. M.'s
Consul in West Africa. With Maps and numerous Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

BELLOWS'S TRAVELS. The Old World in its New Face : Impressions of Europe
in 1867, 186S. By Henry W. Bellows. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 50.

CURTIS'S THE HOWADJI IN SYRIA. By George William Curtis. 12mo,

Cloth, $1 50.
CURTIS'S NILE NOTES OF A HOWADJI. By George William Curtis. 12mo,

Cloth, $1 50.

CUMMING'S HUNTER'S LIFE IN AFRICA. Five Years of a Hunter's Life in the
far Interior of South Africa. With Notices of the Native Tribes, and Anecdotes
of the Chase of the Lion, Elephant, Hippopotamus, Giraffe, Rhinoceros, &c. With
Illustrations. By R. Gordon Cumming. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00.

DAVIS'S CARTHAGE. Carthage and her Remains : being an Account of the Ex-
cavations and Researches on the Site of the Phoenician Metropolis in Africa and
other Adjacent Places. Conducted under the Auspices of Her Majesty's Govern-
ment. By Dr. N. Davis, F.R.G.S. Profusely Illustrated with Maps, Woodcuts,
Chromo-Lithographs, &c. Svo, Cloth, $4 00.

DILKE'S GREATER BRITAIN. Greater Britain : a Record of Travel in English-
speaking Countries during 18t)6 and 1867. By Cuaules Wentwortu Dilke. W^ith
Maps and Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 00.

DOOLITTLE'S CHINA. Social Life of the Chinese : with some Account of their
Religious, Governmental, Educational, and Business Customs and Opinions.
With special but not exclusive Reference to Fuhchau. By Rev. Justus Doolit-
tle. Fourteen Years Member of the Fuhchau Mission of the American Board.
Illustrated with more than 150 characteriatic Engravings on Wood. 2 vols., 12nio,
Cloth, $5 00,

DU CHAILLU'S AFRICA. Explorations and Adventures in Equatorial Africa;
with Accounts of the Manners and Customs of the People, and of the Chase of
the Gorilla, the Crocodile, Leopard, Elephant, Hippopotamus, and other Animals.
By Paul B. Du Cuaillu, Corresponding Member of the American Ethnological
Society, of the Geographical and Statistical Society of New York, and of the
Boston Society of Natural History. With numerous Illustratious. Svo, Cloth, $5 00.

DU CHAILLU'S ASHANGO LAND. A Journey to Ashango Land, and Further
Penetration into Equatorial Africa. By Paul B. Du Cuaillu. New Edition.
Handsomely Illustrated. Svo, Cloth, $5 00.

EWBANK'S BRAZIL. Life in Brazil ; or, a Journal of a Visit to the Land of the
Cocoa and the Palm. With an Appendix, containing Illustrations of Ancient
and South American Arts, in recently discovered Implements and Products of
Domestic Industry, and Works in Stone, Pottery, Gold, Silver, Bronze, &c. By
Thomas Ewijank. With over 100 Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $3 00.

ELLIS'S MADAGASCAR. Three Visits to Madagascar, during the Years 1853, 1S54,
1856. Including a Journey to the Capital, with Notices of the Nauiral History
of the Country, and of the Present Civilization of the People. By the Rev. Wil-
liam Ellis, F.H.S. Illustrated by a Map and Woodcuts from Photographs, &c.
Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

HALL'S ARCTIC RESEARCHES. Arctic Researches and Life among the Esqui-
maux : being the Narrative of an Expedition in Search of Sir John Franklin, in
the Years 1860, 1S61, and 1862. By Charles Francis Hall. With Maps and 100
Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, Beveled, $5 00.

HERODOTUS, LIFE AND TRAVELS OF. The Life and Travels of Herodotus in
the Fifth Century before Christ : an Imaginary Biography founded on Fact, illus-
trative of the History, Manners, Religion, Literature, Arts, and Social Condition
of the Greeks, Egyptians, Persians, Babylonians, Hebrews, Scythians, and other
Ancient Nations, in the Days of Pericles and Nehemiah. By J. Talboys Wheel-
er, F.R.G.S. Map. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 50.

HOLTON'S NEW GRANADA. Twenty Months in the Andes. By L F. Holton.
Illustrations and Maps. Svo, Cloth, $3 00.

KINGSLEY'S WEST INDIES. At Last: A Christmas in the West Indies. By
CtiARLEs Kingsley, Author of "Alton Locke," "Yeast," &c., &c. Illustrated.
r2mo, Cloth, $1 50.

Valuable and Interesting Works of Travel. 3

LIVINGSTONE'S SOUTH AFRICA. Missionary Travels aud Researches iu South
Africa; including a Sketch of Sixteen Years' Residence in the Interior of Africa,
and a Journey from the Cape of Good Hope to Loando on the West Ct)ast ;
thence across the Continent, down the River Zambesi, to the Eastern Ocean. By
David Livingstonk, LL.D., D.C.L. With Portrait, Maps by Arrowsmith, and
numerous Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $4 50.

LIVINGSTONE'S EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESL Narrative of an Expedition
to the Zambesi and its Tributaries ; aud of the Discovery of the Lakes Shirwa
and Nyassa. 1S5S-1S64. By David and Chakles Livingstone. With Map aud
Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $5 00.

LAYARD'S NINEVEH. A Popular Account of the Discoveries at Nineveh. By
Austen Henuy Lavard. Abridged by him from his larger Work. With numer-
ous Wood Engravings. 12mo, Cloth, $1 75.

LAYARD'S FRESH DISCOVERIES AT NINEVEH. Fresh Discoveries at Nineveh
and Babylon ; with Travels in Armenia, Kurdistan, aud the Desert. Being the
Result of a Second P^xpedition undertaken for the Trustees of the British Mu-
seum. By Austen Henry Lavard, M.P. With all the Maps and Engravings in
the English Edition. Svo, Cloth, $4 00.

MARCY'S ARMY LIFE ON THE BORDER. Thirty Years of Army Life on the Bor-
der. Comprising Descriptions of the Indian Nomads of the Plains ; Explorations
of New Territory; a Trip across the Rocky Mountains in the Winter; Descrip-
tions of the Habits of Different Animals found iu the West, and the Methods of
Hunting them ; with Incidents in the Lives of different Frontier Men, &c., &c.
By Brevet Brig.-Geueral R. B. Marcy, U. S. A. Svo, Cloth, Beveled Edges, $3 00.

MOWRY'S ARIZONA AND SONORA. Arizona and Sonora. The Geography, His-
tory, and Resources of the Silver Region of North America. By Sylvester Mow-
EY, of Arizona, Graduate of the U. S. Military Academy at West Point, late Lieu-
tenant Third Artillery, U. S. A., Corresponding Member of the American Institute,
late U. S. Boundary Commissioner,' &c., &c. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.

MACGREGOR'S ROB ROY ON THE JORDAN. The Rob Roy on the Jordan, Nile,
Red Sea, and Gennesareth, &c. A Canoe Cruise in Palestine and Egypt, and the
Waters of Damascus. By J. MACGREciOR, M.A. With Maps and Iliustratious.
Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 50.

NEVIUS'S CHINA. China and the Chinese : a General Description of the Country
and its Inhabitants; its Civilization and Form of Government ; its Religious and
Social Institutions; its Intercourse with other Nations; ai;d its Present Condition
aud Prospects. By the Rev. John L. Nevius, Ten Years a Missionary in China.
With a Map and Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 75.

NEWMAN'S FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA. From Dan to Beersheba; or, the Land
of Promise as it now appears. Including a Description of the Boundaries, Topog-
raphy, Agriculture, Antiquities, Cities, and Present Inhabitants of that Wonderful
Land. With Illustrations of the Remarkable Accuracy of the Sacred Writers iu
their Allusions to their Native Country. By Rev. J. P. Newman, D.D. Maps and
Engravings. 12mo, Cloth, $1 75.

OLIPHANT'S CHINA AND JAPAN. Narrative of the Earl of Elgin's Mission to
China and Japan, in the Years 1857, '58, '59. By Laurence OuniANT, Private
Secretary to Lord Elgin. Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

ORTON'S ANDES AND THE AMAZON. The Andes and the Amazon; or, Across
the Continent of South America. By James Obton, M.A., Professor of Natural
History in Vassar College, Poughkeepsie, N. Y., and Corresponding Member of
the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia. With a New Map of Equatorial
America and numerous Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 00.

PAGE'S LA PLATA. La Plata, the Argentine Confederation, and Paraguay. Being
a Narrative of the Exploration of the Tributaries of the River La Plata aud Ad-
jacent Countries during the Years 1853, '54, '55, and '50, under the Orders of the
United States Governm^ent. New Edition, containing Farther Explorations iu La
Plata during 1859 and 1860. By Thomas J. Page, U. S. N., Commander of the Ex-
peditions. With Map and numerous Engravings. Svo, Cloth, $5 00.

PRIME'S (S. I.) TRAVELS IN EUROPE AND THE EAST. Travels in Europe aud
the East. A Year in England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, France, Belgium, Hol-
land, Germany, Austria, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Palestine, and Egypt. By
Rev. Samuel Irkn^us Prime, D.D. Engravings. 2 vols., large 12mo, Cloth, $3 00.

READE'S SAVAGE AFRICA. Western Africa: being the Narrative of a Tour in
Equatorial, Southwestern, and Northwestern Africa; with Notes on the Habits
of the Gorilla; on the Existence of Unicorns and Tailed Men; on the Slave Trade;
<m the Origin, Character, and Capabilities of the Negro, and on the Future Civil-
ization of Western Africa. By W. Winwood Reade, Fellow of the Geographical
and Anthropological Society of London, and Corresponding Member of the Geo-
graphical Society of Paris. With Illustrations and a Map. Svo, Cloth, ^ 00.

4 Valuable and Interesting Works of Travel.

REINDEEK, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES. A Journal of Siberian Travel and Ex-
plorations made in the Years 1805-67. By Ricuaed J. Bush, late of the Russo-
American Telegraph Expedition. Illustrated. Crown Svo, Cloth, $3 00.

PRIME'S (W. C.) BOAT-LIFE IN EGYPT. Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia. By
William C. Pkime. Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $2 00.

PRIME'S (W. C.) TENT-LIFE IN THE HOLY LAND. By William C. Prime. Il-
lustrations. 12rao, Cloth, $2 00.

SQUIER'S CENTRAL AMERICA. The States of Central America: their Geography,
Topography, Climate, Population, Resources, Productions, Commerce, Political
Organization, Aborigiues, »&c., «fcc. Comprising Chapters on Honduras, San Sal-
vador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Belize, the Bay Islands, the Mosquito
Shore, and the Honduras luter-Oceanic Railway. By E. G. Squier, formerly
Charge d'Affairs of the United States to the Republics of Central America. With
numerous Original Maps and Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, %\ 00.

SQUIER'S NICARAGUA. Nicaragua : its People, Scenery, Monuments, Resources,
Condition, and Proposed Canal. With One Hundred Maps and Illustrations. By
E. G. Squier. Svo, Cloth, $4 00.

SQUIER'S WAIKNA. Waikna; or. Adventures on the Mosquito Shore. By E. G.
Sqdieb. With a Map and upward of Sixty Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50.

SPEKE'S AFRICA. Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By Captain
JouN Hanning Speke, Captain H. M.'s Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist
of the Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Med-
alist of the French Geographical Society, &c. With Maps and Portraits and nu-
merous Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain Grant. Svo, Cloth, $4 00.

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Travels in Central America,
Chiapas, and Yucatan. By J. L. Stephens. With a Map and SB Engravings. 2
vols., Svo, Cloth, $6 00.

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN YUCATAN. Incidents of Travel in Yucatan. By J.
L. Stephens. 120 Engravings, from Drawings by F. Catherwood. 2 vols., Svo,
Cloth, $6 00.

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT. Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petraa, and the
Holy Land. By J. L. Stephens. Engravings. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00.

STEPHENS'S TRAVELS IN GREECE. Travels in Greece. Turkey, Russia, and
Poland. By J. L. Stephens. Engravings. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00.

THOMSON'S LAND AND BOOK. The Land and the Book ; or, Biblical Illustra-
tions drawn from the Manners and Customs, the Scenes and the Scenery of the
Holy Land. By W. M. Thomson, D.D., Twenty-five Years a Missionary of the
A.B.C.F.M. in Syria and Palestine. With Two elaborate Majjs of Palestine, an
accurate Plan of Jerusalem, and Several Hundred Engravings, representing the
Scenery, Topography, and Productions of the Holy Land, and the Costumes, Man-
ners, and Habits of the People. Two large 12mo Volumes, Cloth, $5 00.

VAMBERY'S CENTRAL ASIA. Travels in Central Asia: being the Account of a
Journey from Teheran across the Turkoman Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the
Caspian, to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcaud, performed in the Year 1863. By
Akminius Vamherv, Member of the Hungarian Academy of Pesth,by whom he
w^as sent on this Scientific Mission. With Map and Woodcuts. Svo, Cloth, $4 50.

VIRGINIA ILLUSTRATED : containing a Visit to the Virginian Canaan, and the
Adventures of Porte Crayon and his Cousins. Illustrated from Drawings by
Porte Crayon. Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

W\\LLACE'S MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the
Orang-Utan and the Bird of Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, lS54-'6-J. With
Studies of Man and Nature. By Alfred Russel Wallace. W^ith Maps and nu-
merous Illustrations. Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 50.

WELLS'S EXPLORATIONS IN HONDURAS. Explorations and Adventures in
Honduras; comprising Sketches of Travel in the Gold Regions of Olancho, and
a Review of the History and General Resources of Central America. By William
V. W^ELLS. With Original Maps and numerous Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $3 50.

W^HYMPER'S ALASKA. Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Alaska, formerly
Russian America— now ceded to the United States— and in various other Parts
of the North Pacific. By Frederick Whympek. With Map and Illustrations.
Crown Svo, Cloth, $2 50.

WILKINSON'S ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. A Popular Account of the Ancient
Egyptians. Revised and abridged from his larger Work. By Sir J. Gardner
Wilkinson, D.C.L., F.R.S., &c. Illustrated with 500 Woodcuts. 2 vols., 12mo,
Cloth, $3 50.

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