Full text of "Sultan to sultan. Adventures among the Masai and other tribes of East Africa"

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Sultan to Sultan.

Adventures among the Masai and
other Tribes ot East Africa.

M. FRENCH-SHELDON,
" Bebe Bwana."

BOSTON, MASS.:
A.RENA PUBLISHING COMI^A^NY

Copley Sciuare.
1892.

London: SAXON & CO., 23 Bouverie St., Fleet St., E. C.

Coi'VRuniTEii 1S92.
By M. French-Sheldon.

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FOREWORD.

From the public I crave indulgence for all shortcomuigs,
with the assurance that under the crushing weight of a supreme
sorrow which has overtaken me whilst " Sultan to Sultan" has
been in press, it has been with an aching heart I have com-
pleted the work, endeavoring with fortitude to do my best to
make my readers better acquainted with the possibilities ot the
natural primitives whom I am proud to call my iriends an
be called friend by, and to demonstrate that if a woman coul
journey a thousand and more miles in East Africa, amon
some hostile tribes, unattended by other than Zanzibaris mer-
cenaries, without bloodshed, the extreme measures employed by
some would-be colonizers is unnecessary, atrocious, and with-
out the pale of humanity. To the indefatigable efforts of m)-
publishers, especially to Mr. 11. H. lioyce, who, with s)mpa-
thy and consideration, has personally spared me the countless
detail of the work ; to the artists who have entered into the
spirit of the illustrations, and actually reproduced the photo-
graphs and the curios, waiving artistic desire to make alter-
ations ; to the printers, and the Victorians of Manchester,
England, for the sketch map of m)- route ; and finally to
Iriends who have seen me bravely through, I owe un-
qualified thanks.

Author.

BosiON, Mass., U. S. A.;
August 20, 1S92.

TABLE OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHAPTER I. opiosiTE

PACE

Bridge built by Native Engineers . . . . . . 22

CHAPTER n.
The Treacherous Guide ........ 46

CHAPTER VI.

Plodding through an .African Boulevard . . . . . 146

CHAPTER Vni.
Natives coming to see Bebe Bwana . . . . . . 184

CHAPTER IX.
On a Secret Mission ......... 200

CHAPTER X.
Map ............ 214

CHAPTER XI.

A Pause for Breath . . . . . . . . . 238

Natives and Ostrich afjout my Kitchen . . . . . 254

CHAPTER XII.

AflO-AT on Lake Chala, May 9, 1S91 . . . . . . 270

CHAPTER XIII.

Tall Grass ........... 288

Natives near Kildi.anjaro ........ 298

TARLE OF FULI.-PAGE ILLUSTRATIOXS.

chaptf:r XIV.

Entering thk Forest

Natives crowding around Car.-wan

CHAPTER XV.

Part of an Encampment
Group of Ta\'eta Natin'es

OPPOSITE
PAGE

306
316

322

CHAPTER XVI.

Hamidi, Caravan and Natives .....

Poor Bebe, no Rings .......

Stream forded by Caravan ......

CHAPTER XVII.

KiLAME N.ATIVF.S BRINGING PeaCF, OFFERING

CHAPTER XVIII.

Sultan Mireali's Subjects attend iiy Full-dress Reception
Sultan Mireali's Boma with some of his Wives and Surias

334
342
350

356

378
3S6

Contemplative Natives .
Cow sent by Mireali

CHAPTER XIX.

CHAPTER XX.

African Stream swum by Carav.an .
Photographic Fiction .....

CHAPTER XXI.
M. French-Sheldon in Court Dress

392
402

40S
414

418

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Ho ! FOR East Africa

starting from London. — Adieu to Friends. — First Obstacle. — Palanquin
and All safely on Board Steamship "Madura." — .\t Naples. —
Heartbreaking Farewell. — Reviewing the Situation. — Life on Ship-
board. — Port Said. — Suez Canal. — Sights on Vnyage. — Aden.

CHAPTER H.

Aden to Momi;asa

PAGE
13

Sights about Aden — Local Color. — Saffron Woman. — Palanquin on
View. — Captain's Brutality turns to my Disadvantage. — Lamu. —
My Great Obstacle. — Rumored Disturbances in German Occupancy.

— Nearing Mombasa.

CH.APTER in.
Mombasa to Zanzibar ......... 63

Approaching Moml^asa. — My Obstacle protests. — Silence a Virtue. —
Frere Town Mission. — Impractical Christianity, Industrial Mission.

— Native Drink. — .-V Desultory Glance. — The White Men in the
English <.)ccupancy.

CHAPTER IV.
Forming my Caravan ......... 83

My Undertaking scouted. — L)i!ticulty in recruiting Porters. — Gaining
the Auspices of the Sultan of Zanzibar. — Visits to the Harem. —
Behind Closed Doors. — Sultan's Letter. — Caravan sworn in. —
Malignant Fever. — Back to Mombasa. — My Obstacle converted. —
Mr. Mackenzie's Letter. — Everything in Train. — Native's Quaint Ex-
pression. — No Cripples. — Twins tabooed. — Stigmatized Bits of Metal.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

PAOE

The First March io8

Rain. — A First Start. — My Host. — \ariety uf Supplies. — Routine of
Dailv Life. — Patience and Other Traits of my Contingents. — Tan-
genizing, the African .Synonyme of the American Fixing. — Natives'
Quaint Acts, Sign Language. — No Intirm, no Cripples. — Twins. —
Treachery punished.

CHAPTER VI.

First Al.\r.m. Excitable Porters 130

Masai .Scare. — Products. — Flogging Porters to protect themselves and
the Natives. — Methods of Discipline. — Kara, the Samson of the
Caravan. — Ants. — Jiggers and C)ther Pests. — Pink Locusts. — Horal
Colors. — Turtles. — Helices. — Name King.

CHAPTER Vn.

^\'A-NvIKA AND Wa-Duruma 1 53

Thorny March. — Homage commanded from Natives. — Christened as
Bebe Bwana. — Directness of Language. — Buss concludes a Bargain.

— Wa-Duruma. — Wa-Shenzie. �� Slaves own Slaves. — Foot-sore. —
Making Camp. — Comforts of my Itinerary. — Tooth-Sticks. — Capt.
.Stairs's Hints for Camps, etc.

CHAPTER Vni.

Re\ OI.T AND De.ath . . . . . . . . . • I 73

First and Last Revolt. — Severe Measures necessary. — Rock Reservoirs.

— Yellow Birds. — Medical Duties. — Nightly Horrors. — Marching
in the Storm. — .\ Sentimental if not Faithful Wife. — • Porter de-
voured by Lions. — An Invalid. — Deserted Villages. — Primitive
Methods of tilling the Ground.

CHAPTER IX.

nEPRA\ED Wa-TeITA . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 7

Difficult March. — -Accident to my Eye. — Sagalia Mission deserted. —
Depravity of the Wa-Teita. — Decoration the Religion of Dress. —
.Vrrow Poison. — Polygamy climatic. — Kilimanjaro seen in Distance.

— Palanquin pursued by Native Gamins. — The Ceremonious Art of
spitting. — Whilst eating, viewed in Wonderment. — A Ducking. —
Noli Me Tiutgerf. — -Device appreciated. — Dying by the Wayside.

— "Buck Fever." — A Happy Shot. — Big Game. — Birds. — Plea
for Methods of Transportation.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

PAGE

Ox TO Taveta ........... 208

Lake Jipo. — Kilimanjaro. — Another Masai Scare. — A Test of \alor. —
Taveta Gates. — A Cloud-Burst. — ■ Bribery in Africa. — Welcomed by
Wa-Taveta. — Habits, Costumes, and Industries. — The Woman of
Taveta. — Funeral Rites. — Worship. — Secretiveness respecting the
Dead. — Pombe Cups. — Dubious Origin of Designs. — Medical Prac-
tices. — Dancing. — Decorations affected by the Men. — Trving to
amuse Natives. — Singular Armlets. — King Ja-Ja Ring. — Articles
craved by Natives. — Confidence in Author.

CH.\PTER XI.

Arcadian T.aveta . . . . . . . . . .238

Attributes of Character. — Farm Products. — Rotten Egg. — Fanning
Leather. — Clannish Selection of (.'rnament. — Sumptuous Display of
Native Jewelry. — Marriage Customs. — Mixed Family Relations. —
Native Medical Clinic. — Childhood's Limits. — Education by Observa-
tion. — Circumscribed Language. — Fire-Sticks. — Shooting Fish. —
Universal Kindness to Children. — Harmless Freedom in the Inter-
mingling of the Sexes.

CHAPTER XII.

CIRCUMNAVIG.A.T10N OF LaKE ChaLA ....... 260

My Expedition to Lake Chala. — English Officer and Mission. — Doctor's
Ivindness. — .'Vdventurous Descent to and Circumnavigation of Lake
Chala. — My Friends, the Hostile Rombos, subsequently Dr. Peters's
X'ictims.

CHAPTER XIII.
VuLC.«JS OF Chaga .......... 284

Fundis Craftsmen or Blacksmiths of Chaga Land. — Experts, among
which are Sultans Mandara and Mireali. — Mandara's Disablement. —
Simplicity of Native Tools. — Forging Spears out of Iron Wire. —
Methods used. — Charcoal Making. — High Rank of a Fundi. — A
Fundi's Pride. — Jewellers who make Delicate Chains, Beads, Brace-
lets, Armlets, Necklaces, Ear-Rings, and Bells. — Variety of Orna-
ments. — Burnishing. — Religion of Ornamentation. — Men indulge
in \'anities. — Do the Fancy Beadwork, leaving the Women to till
the Ground and care for Cattle. — Following Fashion.' — , Various
Significance of Bells. — Masai Women's Ornaments. — Patterns used
for Spears. — Mark of the Maker. — Rombo Small Spears. — Using
all Bits of Metal for Ornaments. — Adaptation of Bottles. — Native
Unconscious Nudity. — Story of a Masai Spear.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

PAGE

Primitive Kimangelia 301

Forest Village never before visited by a White Person. — Debatable
Territorial Lines. — Native Guides. — Passing through Useri. —
Women's Decorations. — Uncivil Sultan receives a Rebuff. — Wild
Animals. — A Masai Woman's Corpse stripped of its Ornaments. —
.Sudden Change of Temperature. — All suffer from the nightly Cold.
— Trying Route. — -Sweet Odors of Veget.ition induce Asthma. — Phos-
phorescent Mists. — Revelations of the Night. — Nocturnal Attack of
a Python. — Snakes and Serpents. — Cutting Way through Forest. —
Habits and Customs. — Called Author God. — Stone Spear. — Dis-
covery of a Cave.

CHAPTER XV.
Masai 319

Blustering Masai. — Attacks upon Taveta make a Trade of War. — The
Wandurobo Dwarfish if not Dwarfs. — Forbidding Passage through
Country. — Women's Privileges. — Grass as an Emblem of Truce. —
Salt Stone Analysis, by the Royal College of Science, London. —
Women's Regulation Garb. — Men's Theatrical Get-up and Actions. —
Meat-Eaters. — One Thousand ready for Battle. — " Wow," a Threat
met by Threat. — Blind Zeal in Photography. — Spitting an Urbane
Civility. — Values of Women and Cattle. — Full-dress Reception. - —
Picturesque Phrases.

CHAPTER XVI.
Heroic Hamidi and Others ........ 334

Hamidi, Author's Headman of Headmen. — Refusing to conduct .Author. —
Heroic .Action. — Final Consent. — His Devotion to his Leader. — ■
Woman's Loin-Cloth. — Wa-Kahe Belief in Transmigration of the
Spirits of their .Ancestors. — Wa-Kahe Industries. — Native Thief
captured. — -Tempted by Desire to possess a Waterproof Cloth. — A
Little Maid of Kilema's Generosity. — Establishing a Code of Prestige.

— Latent Fun of the Natives. — ^To wish for was to possess. — Josefe
dubbed as the Trumpet of Bi'bc. — .-Vnswering me as Sir. — Members
of my Migrating Household. — Washing Days. — Women Porters. —
Porters secreting Articles in their Wool. — Daily Life among Porters.

— Cutting out Thorns. — Caravan .Anchor.

CHAPTER XVII.
Sultan Mikeali .......... 356

Mireali, Sultan of Marungu, dressed as a Guy. — His Warm Welcome
and Generosity. — Resumption of Native Costume. — Coveted Music
Box. — His Wives, Surias, and Household. — Mireali's Talks. — His

TABLE OF CONTENTS. 5

Contentions uitli Mandara. — His Ambition to become enlightened. paok

— Sultan Mariama and the Saw. — Native Fabrics. — Native-made
Candles. — Stuff of Court Gown called Queens' Cloth. — Sunglass. —
Mireali dances the Moon Dance. — A Deputation of his Subjects en-
treating the Author to stay. — Happy Chance for a Photograph. — The
Perished Umbrella. — Messenger from .Sultan to .Sultan. — How to
check Interpreter.

CH.\PTER XVIII.

Characters . . . . . . . . . -377

Musical Instruments. — Sultan Fumbo. — Rame/an's Artitice. — Baraka, my
Steward. — Estabhshment of Discipline. — Porter Francez. — Roll
Call.

CHAPTER XIX.

Sultan Mandara of Mo.schi . . . . . . . . 39*

His Crafty, L'nscrui)ulous Ways. — Visit to his Boma. — Caves at the Foot
of the Hill of the Site of his Village. — Fiction with Germans. — Story
of a Little Native Child.

CHAPTER XX.
Fleeting Sights .......... 406

Albinos. — Meeting Elephants. — Big Game. — Water Incident. — Women
classed by Garments. — Offering a Head of Hair for Sale. — Effect of
Climate on Photography. — A Photographic Fiction.

CHAPTER XXI.
Homeward Bound . . . . . . . . . .416

Through the German Territory. — Palanijuin Accident. — Meeting Capt.
Stairs. — Care on Steamship '-Madura." — Familiar Scenes. — Arrival
at Naples. — Home again.

CHAPTER XXII.
Afterilath ........... 428

Medical and SurijIcal .\ppLLA.NCEi . . . . . . .431

TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHAPTER I.

Initial Letter H, Two Native Water-Carriers joined by Rubber Plant. — H.
S. Wellcome. — E. L. Sheldon. — Surgeon T. H. Parke. — Naples. — Aden. —
Capt. Avern. — Steamship "Madura." — Dredge on Suez Canal. — Port Said
Jetty. — Entrance to Suez Canal. — Bedouin .\rab Chief. — .Arab Camel Caravan.
— Water Caravan. — Suez. — Native Dobe or Washerwoman. — Tailpiece, Cas-
solet used on Coaling Barges.

CH.APTER II.

Initial Letter A, Tiger. — Mosque at .\den. — Masai Head-Dress, Red
and White Painted Leather Face Piece, Ostrich Plumes. — Abyssinian
Warrior. — Water Tanks at .Aden. — Son of the Mahadi. — Delight of a Cordo-
fan, Negro on a Chicken Coop. — Fellah Water-Carrier. — Abyssinian Slave
Children. — Egyptian Scissors-Grinders. — Native Types of Porters. — Bushiri,
the Slave Raider. — Somali Family. — Queen of Somali. — The Queen's Slave
Woman. — Chaga Car\'ed Snuff-Box, Egyptian Design. — .Author's Sun Protect-
ors. — Slave Dhow, built without Metal Spikes or Cleats. — Varbon Lelli, one of
my Faithfuls. — George S. Mackenzie, my Great Obstacle. — Mombasa Fort,
built by \'asco da Gama in Si.\teenth Century. — Tailpiece, Ostrich Boa and
Feathers bought at Aden.

CHAPTER III.

Initial Letter W, Lemur. — Cocoanut Plantation, Mombasa. — .Author's
Hand, showing Rings and Bracelets for Gifts. — .Arab Quarters, Mom-
basa. — Date Palm. — Soudanese Warriors. — Snuff-Box, studded Silver,
Metal Chain, Chaga make. — .Arab Woman selling Bananas to Porter. — Gourd
Snuff-Box, studded Silver and Carved Patterns, Chaga make. — .Arab Blind
Beggar. — Snuff-Box, studded Silver, Metal Chain, Chaga make. — Rescued
Slave Girls, Various Tribes. — .Abyssinian Slave Girl. — Native Warriors. —

TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. 7

Somali Warriors. — Ear Stretcher worn by Missionary Girls, Mombasa. — Tail-
piece, Eland Bull.

CHAPTER IV.

Initial Letter F, African Monkey and Grass. — Mombasa from English
Point. — M. French-Sheldon, Bebe Bwana, in Travelling Costume. — Sultan of
Zanzibar, Autographed Photograph. — Ivory Market at Bagamoyo. • — Sultan's
Three Henchmen. — Woman of Sultan's Harem. — Woman of Sultan's Harem.

— Sultan's Letter. — Arab Letter- Writer. — Arabian Musician. — Arab Sugar-
Cane Seller and Porters. — Dervish Musician. — Mombasa. — Harbor Zanzibar
and Sultan's Palace. — George S. Mackenzie's Letter. — Black Ivory, or Slaves
at Bagamoyo. — Tailpiece, Hunteri.

CHAPTER V.

Initial Letter M, African Elephant's Head and Moss. — Josefe and Natives.

— Arabs Resting. — A Study of Pombe Cups, .Author's Collection. — Buffalo
Bull's Head. — Masai Flag of Truce, a Song 'of Peaceful Intentions, carried
by Author's Caravan. — Khartoum Negro before Barber's Day. — Vv'hirling and
Howling Dervishes seen at Zanzibar. — Type Native Soldier. — Type Native
Soldier. — Type Native Soldier. — Native Women Water-Carriers. — Small
Game ; a daily Scene on Safari. — Masai Spear. — Colored Trade Cloths. —
Second Study of Pombe Cups in Author's Collection. — Gourd Water Bottle or
Calabash, ornamented with Beads and Metal Chains. — Brass Chain Necklace,
Chaga make. — Ear Ornament made of Wart Hog Tusks united with Braided
Fibre, ornamented with Chains. — Tailpiece, Bush Buck.

CHAPTER VI.

Initial Letter S, Giraffe and Native Grasses. — Wait-a-Bit Tree. — Brass
Bead Necklace, Chaga make. — Luncheon in the Open. — Inlaid Wooden
Bowl stained Brown. — Wooden Pot, stained Brown, dug out of a solid Piece
with Knives or Flints. — Inlaid Wooden Bowl. — Egg-shaped and Venetian
Trade Beads. — Dawa, or Medicine Beads, made of Black Beans. — Jewelled
Swords given to Sultan Mandara. — Knob Kerry Sticks made variously of Ebony,
Rhinoceros Horn, and Ivory. — Author's Rifle and Gun Case first made by
Natives East Africa. — Portrait of Headman Hamidi. — Native Knives of all
kinds, and Sheaths. — Kara, Samson of the Caravan. — Native Banana Knife
taken from the Forge, unpolished. — Native Wooden Pot. — Third Study of
Pombe Cups, showing first Attempt of Figure Drawing, and a Wooden Pan Pipe.

— Twin Meal Pots. — Helices found from Coast to Highest Point travelled on
Kilimanjaro by Author. — French-Sheldon Name Rings. — Tailpiece, Hunteri.

TAllLE OF TEXT II.I.USTKATK 'NS.

CHAPTER VII.

Initial Letter T, African Lion and Palm-Tree. — Study Pombe Cups. —
M'toto Bunduki, Author's Revolvers. — Egyptian Musician. — Women of tlie
Harem. — Egyptian Couriers. — Native Gossips. — Loads for Four Porters. —
Grass Mat for Porter's Bed. — Sandal, Bottom and Top. — Pombe Cup. —
Wooden Pipe. — Wooden Ear Stretcher. — Capt. Wm. E. Stairs, R. E. —
Native Wooden Basin. — The M. French-Sheldon Medicine Belt. — Chart of
Camp. — Tailpiece, Eland Cow.

CHAPTER VHI.

Initial Letter P, Masai Donkeys' Heads and Cacti. — Wait-a-Bit Thorn.
Raconta Beads. — Native Wooden Combs. — Native Medicine Box. — Trade
Beads. — Metal Necklaces for Gifts. — Masai Long Spear. — Kanzu worn by
Headman. — Copper Bead Kibosho Necklace. — Wooden Meal Dish. — Sweet
Grass Bead Necklace. — Bead-inlaid Bowl. — Native Four-legged Dish, made
of one Piece of Wood. — Spiral Metal Necklace, Native Work. — Native
Wooden Spoon. — Hide and Bead Cap worn by Sultans. — Tailpiece, Head
of Gazella Walleri.

. CHAPTER IX.

Initial Letter D, Native Goat with Black Face, and Fohage. — Wa-Teita
Hut and Banana-Tree. — Poisoned Arrows and Fire Arrows. — Native Metal
Rings and Goatskin Brotherhood Rings. — Snuff- Box made Gazelle's Horn, and
ornamented. — Brass and Iron Beads, Native make. — Goatskin Flap, orna-
mented with Beads and Chains, worn by many Tribes. — Wa-Teita Bead and
Metal Ear-Rings, Twenty-four worn at a Time. — Wa-Teita Ear-Rings, made of
Masai Beads. — Wa-Teita Bead Hoop Ear-Rings, Twenty-four and more worn
in One Ear. — Wa-Teita Sem-Sem, small Blue and Red Bead Necklace, pon-
derous. — Caravan Path. — Beaded African Fig Leaf, called by other Travellers
Tassels. — Two Beaded Girdles. — Pigeon-Egg shaped Beads, and Pinhead
Beads. — Bead-inlaid Dish. — Wooden Basin. — Rhinoceros Head. — Jewelled
Presents given Sultans. — Tailpiece, Gazella Walleri.

CHAPITER X.

Initial Letter W, Fat-tailed Sheep, with Giant Ferns. — Lake Jipo. — A
Test of Valor. — Living Tree Gates of Taveta. — Wild Cotton Pod, unnamed.
— Taveta White and Pink Girdle. — Study of Four Pombe Cups. — Taveta
Bead Collar and Necklace. — The Woman of Taveta. — Bead Belt presented to
Author by the Woman of Taveta. — Calf s Stomach Head-Dress, ornamented
with Beads and Chains. — Snuff-Box, ornamented with Beads and Chains. —

TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. 9

Brass \Vire Spring Necklace, Native make. — Cotton Cap made by Porters on
Safari. — Cotton Cap made on Safari, from which Natives copy Designs for
Pombe Cups. — Silver-inlaid Wooden Bowl. — Dawa Necklace. — Taveta Bead
Belts, Pink and White, Red and Blue. — Taveta Four-legged Stool, made out
of One Piece of Wood, Top of Stool Designs burned in. — Child's Bead
Fringe Girdle. — Fine Chain Girdle, Bone Armlet. — Silver Ring of King
Ja-Ja, similar in Design to Bone Armlet. — Josefe, the Interpreter, Wag of the
Caravan. — Tailpiece, Male Water Buck.

CHAPTER XI.

Initial Letter G, Ostrich and African Papyrus. — Wa-Teita Sweet Grass
Necklace. — View of Kilimanjaro. — Author's Alpine Stock with Noli Mc
Tangere Pennant. — Taveta People. — B^be Bwana's Canvas Villa. — A ()uiet
Siesta in my Palanquin. — Bead and Chain Embroidered Loin-Cloth of Sultana.

— Snuff- Box. — Native Mail Carriers with Despatches from Home. — Porters
coaxing a Fire during a Cold Day. — Bearded Masai Warrior's Collar, won when
Twelve Foes have been killed. — Bead-inlaid Gourd. — Warrior's Spear. —
Catherine Wheel Double Brass Ear- Ring. — A Future Warrior. — Tailpiece,
Brindled Wildebeest Bull.

CHAPTER XII.

Initial Letter W, Vultures and Foliage. — Lake Chala, Southwestern View.

— Lake Chala, Northeastern View. — Phalacrocorax .^fricanus, shot on Lake
Chala. — Phalacrocorax Carbo, shot on Lake Chala. — View Kilimanjaro. —
Rombo Spear. — Rombo Hippopotamus Hide Shield, embossed Designs,
Outside. — Rombo Shield, Inside. — Toy Bird Cause of a Panic. — Hostile
Rombos. — Rombo Mctims of German Guns. — Tailpiece, Bush Buck.

CHAPTER XIII.

Initial Letter V, Turtle and Maize. — Brass and Iron Bell Ear-Rings. —
Native Calfskin Bellows. — Native Calfskin Bellows. — Masai Spear. — Group
Metal Chain Ear-Rings, Brass, Copper, and Iron, and Glass Beads. — Real
Size Smallest Chaga Brass Beads. — Metal Ear-Rings. — Native Seme and
Scabbard. — Iron Bell worn by Woman during First Pregnancy. — Bells
worn by Infants. — Medicine Man's Knife and Poison Tubes. — Set of Orna-
ments worn by Masai Woman. Iron Coils finished with Brass and Copper.

— Warrior's Bell with Beaded Leg- Band. — Dancing Bell. — Native Vulcan's
make of Bracelets and Goatskin Bracelet. — Tailpiece. Brindled Wildebeest
Bull.

lO TAllLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHAPTER XIV.

Initial Letter K, Elephants and Hippopotamus and Palm-Tree. — Masai
Colobus-skin Leglet. — Ostrich Feather Masai Mask. — Useri Head Orna-
ment. — Masai El-Moran. — Masai El-Moran. — Buffalo Bull. — Palanquin
and Python. — Chaga Chain Filet. — Camping Ground, Kimangelia. — Chaga
Snuff- PJox, ornamented Copper Wire Chains and Beads. — Chain and Bead
Ciirdle. — Metal Bead Necklace. — Tailpiece, Male Water Buck, or Kobus
Sing-.Sing.

CHAPTER XV.

Initial Letter B, Striped Mouse, Balsams, and Heliotrope. — Masai
Woman's Neck .-^rmor of Metal Coils. — Masai Brass Picked-out Bracelet. —
Masai Women Callers. — Masai War Mask, Ostrich Feathers and Lion's Mane.

— Split Vulture Feather Ruff, Part of Masai War Uniform. — Masai Necklace,
Metal Chains and Spring. — Masai Nebara, White and Red Cotton sewn to-
gether in Strips. — Wow, Masai \\'arrior threatening. — Masai Women with
Neck .Armor and Catherine Wheel Ear- Rings and Hide Helmet. — Masai
Brass Picked-out Collar. — Tailpiece, Male M'pallah.

CHAPTER XVI.

Initial Letter X, Zebra and Huge Maidenhair Fern. — Masai Ostrich
Mask. — Masai Spears and Shields, with .Archaic Designs. — Chaga Metal Chain
(iirdle. — Large Masai Nebara, Brilliant Red and White Cotton. — Leather
Beaded Loin-Cloth with a Histor)'. — Portraits of Four Headmen. — Head of
Oryx Beisa Bull. — Colobus Monkey-Skins. — .An old Masai warning .Author. —
Tailpiece.

CHAPTER XVII.

Initial Letter A, with Humming-Bird and Convolvulus. — Delicate Chain
Necklace, with Spiral Brass Pendants. — Sultan Mireali in Native .Attire. —
Presentation Jewelled Belt, Dagger, and Ornaments. — Bead Girdles worn
solely as .Attire by Mireali Surias (\\'omen). — Beaded Fig Leaf, sometimes
called a Tassel. — Beaded Fig Leaf, Metal Fringed. — -Agary Beads and Dawa
Chains, rare. — Candle made by Sultan Mireali. — Sultan Mireali and Courtiers.

— Dancing Wig, Front View, made of Colobus Monkey Hair. — Dancing Wig,
Hack Mew, made of Colobus Monkey White Fur. — Delicate Chain Necklace. —
I'seri Bone ICar-Rings. — Long Chain Necklaces, reach to the Wearer's Waist.

— Moschi Carved Wooden Staff. — Masai Dancing Wand. — Staff covered
with Iron Rings, to conserve for Various Uses. — Tailjiiece, Head Male
M'pallah (Melampus pallah).

TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. I I

CHAPTER XVIII.

Initial Letter L, Gazelles and Papyrus. — Ramezan. — Baraka. — Sultan
Fumba's Crown. — Sultan Fumba and Suite. — Tailpiece, Kudu.

CHAPTER XIX.

Initial Letter I, Hippopotamus and Palm. — Sultan Mandara of Moschi. —
African Spear. — Held in Bondage. — Study of Native-made Spoons. — .Arab
Flags of Welcome. — Blue Cotton Bead and Chain Embroidered Woman's
Cloth. — Out of the Forest. — Tailpiece, Eland Bull.

CHAPTER XX.

Initial Letter M, Gazella Walleri Buck and Giant Ferns. — Tailpiece,
Eland Cow.

CHAPTER XXI.

Initial Letter O, African Baboon, Serpent, and Vine. — Porters testing
the Bridge. — A Clandestine Meeting. — A Repast of Arab Family. — .Arab
Musicians. — Fellah Woman Water-Carrier. — " Does She Live ? "

CHAPTER XXII.

Initial Letter Q, Humming- Bird, Pepper Plant. — Tailpiece, Jacques
Sheldon.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTPZR I.

HO! FOR EAST AFRICA.

/"^ For East Africa !
possessed my brain
when all the prep-
arations possible to make
before reaching Aden
were completed, and a
myriad of boxes and
a bewilderment of non-
descript packages —
my tent, gun, table,
chairs, pistols, photo-
graphic apparatus, and
personal effects — had
been sent by steamer to
meet me at Naples,
_ •'-^^ and for the first

time I felt I was without doubt actually bound for East Africa.
A hundred or more s)mpathetic friends and acquaintances,

SULTAN TO SUI.TAN.

HENRV S. WELLCOME.

throncring the Charing Cross Station, albeit London was be-
nighted in a pea-soup fog, thick, black, damp, and chilly, I
was thrilled with ineliable delight. Gruesome remarks were

intermingled with inspiring words of
faith in my success: " Well, }OU have
my prayers for safe return." " If
you return alive, what a story you'll
have to tell ! " " Do be reason-
able, and abandon this mad, useless
scheme." " Brave woman, you'll ac-
complish all 3'ou aim to ; we owe
you a vote of thanks tor )-our cour-
age and self-sacrifice." "Be cau-
tious, vigilant, ready for any surprise, careful of your health,
and you'll win," said .Surgeon T. H. Parke. And A. Bruce,
the sturd)- son-in-law of the great
Livingstone, thrust into my hands a
long-range field glass, as if to bid me
be far-sipfhted. "Remember, nothino-
is accomplished without giving )our-
self up to the work at whatever sac-
rifice, and that honest failure is not
defeat. We believe )oii will suc-
ceed." His true words were branded
on my brain indelibl)-, and echoed e- l. .sheldon.

through my thoughts time out of number. Around me pressed
lovely girl friends, sentimental hero-worshippers, who set the

RBC

HO ! I'( iR EAST AFRICA.

seal of admiration upon my lips by their farewell kiss, and
whispered, " Hoiv I wish I could go ivith you!" Sedate man
friends looked compassionately at my husband, and involun-
taril)- calculated that the time would be brief ere he should
regret his consent, which I had flouted widel)', as evidence
that when he sanctioned my undertaking, it was not irra-
tional. We were off midst cheers, pelting of flowers, and
the usual half-hysterical, frantic commotion attending a de-
parture where a friend's life seemed at stake. At last the
cars were speeding away from Lon-
don town, and my husband and two
friends, H. S. Wellcome, Surgeon
T. H. Parke, and myself were the sole
occupants of the railway carriage,
destined for Dover. The conversation
was somewhat constrained; however,
the good doctor heaped upon me a
host ot practical advice, the outcome surgeon 1. h. parkk.

of his expansive experience respecting the preservation of
my own health, and the amelioration of probable sufferings
from the ine\itable African fever ; as well as how to ad-
minister the contents of my extensive medical kit in behalf
of my caravan. He had taken pains to write out minute
directions, and so plainly that a child could follow such in
fullest detail. At Dover w^e parted from our two friends.
Arriving at Calais, we hastil)' counted up the luggage and
met the first difficult)-. The railroad officials had not prop-

1 6 SULTAN TO SILTAX.

erly notified the manager of rolling stock of the dimen-
sions of my Palanquin, which proved too large to get into
the luggage vans. Cables were flashed back to London.
We implored the officials, at our risk of damage, to place
the bo.x containing it upon a coal truck, or even to rip
off the casing, all to no purpose : red tape prevailed to
such a degree not one official on the spot had authority
to make the slightest innovation. The station master waved
the detested green signal flag, then came the demon screech
of the unthrottled engine, and away we whisked out of the
station, yelling out of the window, until beyond hearing,
messages to the officials, finally to relapse in silence, and
deliberate as to what should be our next move. Considering
we had paid over ninety-five dollars (eighteen guineas) to
register the Palanquin as personal luggage, we felt duped.
Personally, I secretly thought it was rather absurd to think
of trying to take the luxurious article with me, when it
was next to impossible to have it transported from England
to the coast of Italy after every care, forethought, and
prearrangement had been devoted to make it absolutely sure
that it would go on the same train with us. At every
station we raided the telegraph offices, made supervisory
arrangements with station masters, saw various American
consuls, in the hope of more effectually engaging the atten-
tion of railroad officials. Everything was being done at
both ends. Unluckily, the luggage we had with us was
left in charge of a dazed servant, who sat calmly by and

HO!

FOR EAST AFRICA.

allowed part of it to be carried away from our train. This
then had to be sent back for. Then on reaching the Italian
frontier the cases containing my medicines were suspected, but
fortunately I was provided with a certified inventory furnished
by the Italian consul at London, so this was soon adjusted.
On reaching Naples, the steamship "Madura" had not been
sighted, but was expected hourly, and would not remain in

port but a few hours. News also came that the Palanquin
had reached Rome, and would arrive next morning ; alas! in
the usual course of things this would be too late for the ship,
and hence, as a last resort, it would have to be taken to
Brindisi, and shipped on the French Line to meet my ship
at Aden. However, through the courtesy of the directors of
the British East India Steamship Company, the agent was au-
thorized to detain the steamer one day for the Palanquin.

SULTAN TO SULTAX.

I\ly "white elephant" arrived, and was held in durance at the
bonded warehouse. The entire day we passed going from
office to office showing my passports, testifying as to who I
was, and what I proposed to do, and having the cased mys-
tery in all of its grandeur unboxed, examined, commented
upon, explained; finally the next day — the ship had been

swinging at anchor for my benefit for twenty-four hours —
the Palanquin was sent in charge of custom-house officials
to be delivered personally by them upon the ship, so that
it could not be tampered with ; one might have supposed it
was a portable article I could pocket and surreptitiously
sell to defraud the government.

HO ! FOR EAST AFRICA.

The heat was torrid. Worry and our unflagging efforts
had occupied our minds to the exchision of the diresome
thoughts of parting which would otherwise have made those
last hours painful and melancholy. My husband accompanied
me to the steamship and placed me in charge of Capt.
James Avern. Striving to keep my courage up, I took snap-
shots of the harbor and finally of the one whose devoted
heart was aching with apprehension.
The time to haul up the anchor came.
Then the signal "all ashore," we
parted, and the boatmen, awaiting
the last passenger, pulled the oars
with sone, the last ineffable look
was interchansred, the handkerchief
that had defiantly fluttered farewell
was soon saturated in tears. A res-
olution to acquit myself bravely
occupied my thoughts as I watched the one dear to me fade
from the horizon, and pondered, half oblivious to my immediate
surroundings, when suddenly I became conscious that I was
the cynosure of strange eyes. A firm step sounded on the
deck behind me, and a voice gently said, —
"So you are ho! for East Africa, madam?"
" If the steamer does not go to the bottom, yes," I snapped
out with acrimony, to the amusement of the inopportune, cu-
rious interloper. Poor fellow, he had an objectionable, obtru-
sive nose for news, and was my constant tormentor throughout

CAPT. JAMES AVERN.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

the voyage. Alas ! he died after a brief fortnight's residence
at Zanzibar, a victim to the indiscretion so many strangers
are guilty of upon going to the tropics, which is too often
fatal. Reckless exposure to the sun and violent exercise,
which produces excessive heat, so intolerable to the impatient
novice that the dripping clothing is inconsequently stripped
off, a cold bath indulged in, which results in a sudden chill,
and mischief sets in usually with gravity.

Capt. Avern, an expert seaman and an unfailing com-
mander, as well as a man of varied experience, I found rich
in expedients, and an invaluable counsellor and instructor for
me upon almost all matters. My East African project was a
theme of unremitting conversation. Everything was done for

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STEAMSHIP "MADURA.

my personal comfort, amusement, and contentment, from the
commander down to the lowest menial of the steamer's crew.
There were beside myselt only two first-class passengers, —
men, — and soon the steamship " Madura" assumed the aspect

FOR EAST AFRICA.

of a private steam yacht. The captain, a most agreeable host,
took apparently great delight in contributing to our individual
tastes and entertainment. The " Madura " has its own his-
tory, is most famous, every timber athrill with the recollec-
tion of the tread of celebrated travellers and explorers,
animated by every imaginable motive, who have trod her decks
going to, or returning triumphant, or left as prey of death

THE DREDGE, SUEZ CANAL.

in Africa. The reminiscences ot this vessel would comprise
not only a graphic story, but give a history of startling events
and tell of leaders who have acted as great discoverers and
civllizers ; of brave people, who knew how to be faithful to
their leaders or the reverse, — a story of misguided infatu-
ates, of honest workers, of benefactors, of selfish worldlings,
of ambition's votaries, of despair's victims ; yet with all, she
floats on serenely, unruffled, steadfast to her course, making

2 2 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

no visible sign of her invested greatness or reflected honors,
unstained, excepting possibly the ink splashes with which I
carelessly defaced her spotless decks, and for which I was
more than once gently but severely reprimanded by the
deck master.

Lovely mornings, bright, sparkling, clear as a crystal, with
the unabashed moon hanging resplendent in the blue sky
as if loitering to feel the full embrace of the uprising sun.
As we passed through the Straits of Messina, in full view
of the Apennine Mountains, then came Sicily and Mount Etna,
the last sight of land until we reached the Egyptian coast, —
a most felicitous contrast to the London foof, and conducive
to mental exhilaration and physical exuberance. just the
thing to sweep the cobwebs out of one's brain and allow the
mind to adjust itself to a proper focus, as well as to rest
the body, and impart that order of courage belonging to
physical well-being.

Then came fickle weather, the Ides of March were hav-
ing a jubilee, — sunbursts, rain, even hail, — an ideal time to
read, ponder, rearrange boxes, study photographic apparatus,
etc.

A ship's rat established my reputation as a " brave lady."
The impudent rodent explored my legs and testeel my
nerves! For some unknown reason, I was not in the least
excited, only surprised and anxious to know how to rout the
enemy. A sneeze did it ! Throughout the voyage this rat
was a constant visitor to me, and I became attached to the

FOR EAST AFRICA.

little four-footed friend, nightly placing in a convenient spot
a tidbit for his refreshment. He never molested me only to
manifest his presence by passing his rough, coarse, hairy
paw over my lace. I would not consent to have a trap set
to capture him.

I'uKi SAID jF/rrv.
The atmosphere was particularly clear ; and although the
stars were peerlessly brilliant, they seemed but few. Orion
shone marvellously, and one began to mark the course of the
vessel by the starry atlas. Sighting Dainietta Light, in a
little over an hour we dropped anchor at Port Said, a coal-
ing station, before entering the Suez Canal. Filled with an.xiety
to hear news, we all hung over the side of the vessel watching

SUI.TAX TO SULTAN.

the boats pull up from shore, when a messenger brought
me a cable from the gallant Capt. Nelson bidding me God-
speed, and other lightning flashes from beloved friends that
were like heart-throbs.

Port Said Jetty, so picturesque, seemed all too beautiful
as the first impression of the strange Arabic town.

The tendency of invariably overcharging for an\- little
article one desires to purchase impressed me with the idea
that there prevails a strong Semitic strain, and unless a
voyager holds out for fairness, he is sure to be the victim
of extortion. During the progress of some purchases the
proprietor of the quaint shop ordered a pot of Arabic coffee,
served piping hot in dainty cups, thick as pea soup, but
most aromatic and delicious. The Arabic quarters have a
most villanous aspect ; not a place one would select to
promenade alone during hours the shops might be closed.

To all appearances the old gambling dens, wherein so
many outrages were committed in former times, have been
shut, but there is always some underhand round-the-corner
avenue to gain access thereto. Nights when the mail steamers
are expected, even though they arrive at two a. >r., the entire
town is ablaze, and every shop or, strictly speaking, bazaar
is open wide to display within and without the attractive
goods. Accompanied by some one who is well up in the
little commercial arts and tricks, the cost of local specialties
is far below English and French charges for the same
articles.

no! FOR EAST AFRICA.

Lack of confidence prevails to such an extent that even
the sheiks in charge of boats, unless paid in ailvance by
the passengers, accompany them to see that the boatmen do
not filch the fees or pocket gratuities. The coaling barges
stations are brilliantly lighted bv cassolets, blazing with their
oil or resinous beacons. Each steamship company's agent

._ jiiii.

ENTRANCE TO SUEZ CANAL.

arranges before the arrival oi anj' steamer belonging to his
particular line for the required supply of coal, and on its
arrival a coal barge is moored alongside, and Egyptian coal
heavers and carriers, wearing only a meagre loin-cloth and
head-pad, carry the coal in baskets up a slanting plank, with
such systematic regularit)- and rapidity they reminded me of
a well-chain.

SUI.TAN TO SUl.TAN.

There is a total absence of women everywhere. The long,
sjDOtless, flowing white and sombre black robes of the men,
their picturesque turbans and elaborate sandals, and their
infinite grace while walking, make them noticeably effeminate;
but there is an air of repression or secretiveness in their
mien, a seeming lack of honest frankness, which forced
upon me the conviction that I should much prefer to face
these Arabs rather than to have them follow behind me.
Egyptian and native laborers make the line of distinction
between master and servants unmistakable.

If a steamer is not fitted with electric lights before being
permitted to enter the .Suez Canal, the requisite apparatus
must be hired at a fixed sum, with an e.xpert engineer in

attendance. The canal
is a marvel, especially
when one considers
that it was projected
under the reign of
Pharaoh Necho, 600
r>. C, whereas De Les-
s e p s made himself
famous by renewing
the original plan in
an extensive wa)-, and
by this water-way be-
tween the Mediterra-
nean and Red Seas he

BEnOUIX CHTEF.

HO I FOR EAST AFRICA. 2"]

has given a boon to the commercial world almost without
parallel ; reducing the distance from London to India from
11,397 miles to 7,628, thereby shortening the voyage by the
Cape thirty-six days. The extreme narrowness of the canal,
most of its length of ninety-nine miles, makes the traffic
somewhat congested, and the nearness to the white sand
banks at times painfully glaring, and the far-away mountains
cut across the sky in ragged peaks, limiting the lateral
horizon. The electric lights, displayed on the ilotilla of
steamers, lends to a night transit a weird splendor. The
rule of navigation, which is strictly enforced the length of
the canal, obliges steamers in sioht and all following farthest
away from the station, when two or more approach in oppo-
site directions, to tie up until the other passes. This is a
great trial to pilots, as it exhausts time and greatly retards
progress. However, it is an absolute law, violation of which
inflicts a heavy penalty upon the culprit, and is impartially
applied to all. A signal from the station approached deter-
mines the right of way for all vessels.

At Ismailia we saw how the dredging macliines excavated
the bottom sand from the channel, carried it in a long
trench and heaped it upon the banks, strengthening and
increasing the levees. At this point, scarcely visible in the
distance, is the chalet, built for the Empress Eugenie's re-
ception when the inaugural Junctions attending the opening
of the canal were celebrated. The sight provokes the thought
of the downfall of an Empire, and later the downfall of a

SULTAX TO SULTAN.

man who, at one time, was on the pinnacle of fame as an
engineer. It again suggests scenes far away beyond the
BibHcal days, until the mind loses itself in contemplating the
wondrous changfes that time has wrought.

We pass an Arab camel caravan, and for the first time
saw women unveiled. One woman, whom I was scanning^

ARAB CAMF.I. CARAVAN.

through my field glasses, prior to taking a snap-shot, glared
at me, and with precipitation jerked up from the banks in her
arms a quaint-looking little dog, cast a defiant glance towards
me, as she discovered that she was the object of m)- obser-
vation, and tossed the little pet upon a camel's back into
a saddle made like a nest with rugs and blankets, and

no I FOR EAST AFRICA.

covered it from my evil eye. This act accomplished, she
rushed to the water's edge and followed the course of the
slowly moving steamer, imprecated and railed at me in the
most vehement manner — about what? — ah! ask the Arabs
who heard. This cara\-an was bound for the Holy Land, and
a set of more villanous-appcaring land sharks I never be-
held. Unclean, utterly miserable, degraded beings, knowing
only a migratory life, in common with their camels and their
vermin, devoid of principle, eking out a questionable exist-
ence by cunning, extortion, and mendicancy. Successions of
caravans of similar character occupied the foreground of the
panoramic scenes ; some were laden with two great, square

WATER CARAVAN.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

boxes, balancinsf each other on either side, containing- or
beine filled with soft, fresh water, for which the Arabs would
demand from pilgrims or travellers a fabulous sum during
transit across the sandy deserts en route to or from the Holy
Land.

.Suez presents an architectural appearance of a substantial
shipping and commerical city. The background of mountain
ranges breaks the monotony of its riatness, and lends a pleas-
ing perspective.

From this point the days were glorious, and the choppy
sea, with white crests, truly grand. A hot sun, but sprightly
fanning breezes, a steady double-awning ship, were winsome
enough to make the Red Sea delightful. A greater portion
of the time was employed in overhauling boxes and cases,
separating and distributing in different boxes my goods for
barter and personal chattel to provide in case of loss or acci-
dent. All this required an arduous amount of labor, and

HO ! FOR EAST AFRICA. 3 1

cost an expenditure of thought and foresight in arranging
and inventorying; however, it was by far tlie safest plan, and
I was well pleased in the end to have had the opportunity to
act upon the piteous experiences of many of my predecessors
in the African fields. To be stripped of all articles of barter,
of food, medicine, wearing apparel, and photographic appa-
ratus, might leave me stranded at a moment of real peril,
necessity, or importance, most significant to the accomplish-
ment of my prime object. Somehow the more I dispassion-
ately contemplated my venture, reviewing the pros and cons,
the more I was convinced that I should accomplish something
worth the greatest hardships and indefatigable output of
force and endeavor requisite. The vo)-age yielded an oppor-
tunity to acquaint myself with weak points, which had pre-
viously escaped me. I could composedly formulate vague
ideas into distinct shape, and prepare for possible emergencies,
and fortify my health and strength. It was like gathering
one's self up to enter an arena as a combatant. In making
classifications for my future work, writing out leading ques-
tions, jotting down points for anthropological and ethnological
observation in order to lose no opportunity, when once in the
field, of probing every topic to the heart and thrashing out
the subjects thoroughly, gradually I discovered in myself a
latent eift for organization. Self- amazement awaited each
effort in this direction, for every diverse avenue of thought
revealed fresh tributaries, until the responsibilities of my
project aggrandized beyond all the limits of original conception.

SUL1-A\ TO SLT.TAX.

After all, g-ood work is
an accretion of ideas
put into effect. It is
the experience of every
thoughtful, earnest
person in quest of
knowledge in new fields
where there is no pre-
cedent to follow.

The sea gradually
assumed the color of
a lovely t u r cj u o i s e
ith thousands

green, w

of gleaming, glitter-
NATivE DOBE WOMAN. ing whitccaps, and the

far-reaching horizon at the rim ot the peerless, spotless
blue-giay dome. Porpoises seemed scarce, although certain
darting, phosphorescent streaks at night betokened their rol-
licking presence. Increased heat made a diminution of, and
thinner clothing necessar)' lor comlort. Mountain ranges
loom up on the African and Aral)ian coasts; Babel-Mambed
is sighted, and the Straits of Aden, called by the sailors
Hell's Gate.

Aden is calletl Hell's Ilarl)or; one can scarcely tell
why, unless it is because of the biuTiing sands and the
treacherous coast. It was night when we dropped anchor
in the Gulf of Aden. .Sjjectacular wrecks of vessels loom

HO ! FOR EAST AFRICA.

up out of the water, suggestive of a fierce struggle with
the elements, and as a phantom warning to those who
course that way, against the high winds and insetting sea
which prevail.

^'iB.m

^r^^mm^

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER 11.

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

tDEN'S racrored stone cliffs and starinof, burn-

ing white sands, unrelieved by vegetation,

and the low-built tropical stuccoed

houses, the mosque, the Parsee temple,

the English church, the hospitals,

*'■" combine to make a singular but not

^'JK'»K— ■^*'- attractive picture.

Somali boys are naked, except an
excuse for a loin-cloth, and sometimes a long piece of white
sheeting, which they utilize for all manner of things, — a
head-wrap, a general covering when they lie down on shore
or curl up in their boats, or wind about their black shiny
bodies as they pull their oars, or even fasten to a pole in
lieu of a sail to catch the fitful breezes. Somali men are
frequently fine, hardy fellows, and move about with a native
dignity which is most impressive; the few women to be seen
are not as a rule fine, excepting the young queen of Somali,
who rules by her beauty and overbearing tyranny one of the
most desperate tribes of Africa ; she is certainh* fair to gaze
upon. A marked difference in the shades of color of their

ADEX TO MOMBASA.

skins provokes the query as to the cause. Well-to-do .Somali
men ^vear a leathern band passed through the centre of two
valuable, large, knob -shaped pieces of amber around their
necks. One purchased by me from the neck of the wearer
cost ten dollars (two pounds). The same price is demanded for
a new one at the shops. Others wear leather armlets, through

MOSQUE .AT ADEN.

which their knives are thrust, and plain leather collars, and
even long strands of beads interspersed with a few red and
yellow ones to brighten up the others. Native boy divers
swim out from shore and float about the anchored vessels,
soliciting a coin to dive for, and utter in a comical shrill way
a few pigeon English words: " Laidee, swimmee bottom

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

littee monee." They dive and gambol in the water like
porpoises. When Somali boatmen pull their oars, it is to
the time of a strange, measured plaint in a falsetto tone,
whereas, when they rest on their oars, drifting or tied up,
they laugh and chatter incessantly in a loud voice, repeating
over and over the same words, and clapping their hands on
their bare thighs. As the captain's gig, with its Indian crew„

pulled us to shore, the amphibious
Somali boys surrounded the boat and
bore us company all the way, entreating
us for coin. A few whites, Arabs, Parsees,
Egyptians, and Africans from every
quarter of the coast and islands, Berber,
Nubia, Dinkili, Galla, Karthoum, Soudan,
Congo, and Somali men move about in
these seaports, a motley throng, adding
a quaint interest to all strangers. Once
settled in a rickety two-seated cariole,
drawn by a well-cared-for, fat, tiny little
horse, we were driven by an old Arab
who disported an abundant pale-green muslin turban sur-
mounted by a plaited straw crown cap, a long striped kansor
trailing to his feet and a bright yellow cloth sleeveless jacket
braided with gold, his hands covered with rings of strange
devices ; he was fat, sleek, odoriferous with a blend of spices
and uncleanliness, utterly indifferent to the comfort of his
passengers, his sandals occupying the front seat beside him.

MASAI HEAD-DRESS.

ADEN' TO MO^nUSA.

The heat and flies and merciless glare of sun on barren
landscape, to say nothing ot the swirls ot dust and furnace-
like air, which brought whiffs of unknown odors, and the
stench of camels, of donkeys, ot sheep, ot people, and of
towns, made the outing certain!)- unpleasant, if a novelty.

The principal street was
very tiny creatures, laden
panniers and enormous
at a very quick pace,
here little
buffaloes,
b u r den,
Said ; the
most re-
transport, and with their
gallop at an admirable
with bkick faces ; sheep
tails clumped upon their /
plume, — the
duced b\' cut-
fleshy part ot

crowded with donkeys,

with tremendous double

packs travelling

j4 There were

tawn -colored

used as beasts of

as well as at Port

camel seems the

liable means of

hea\-y loads awkwardly

rate of speed; goats

with heavy fat

backs like a

result pro-

■.' ' ting the

the tail and

t r a i n i n 1/ the

ABYSSINIAN WARRIOR.

clumsy ap-
pendage up at the crup, to
keep it from trailing on the ground ; the fleece is short and
not abundant.

A most extraordinary apparition of a human creature
loomed upon my vision, and proved to be a woman, the

38 SULTA>f TO Sri^TAX.

first of my own sex I had beheld in the town. She presented
one complete, unvaried mass of saffron color. Every tone
about her was saffron ; her body was tinged saffron, even to
her feet in her saffron-colored sandals ; her gown was
saffron ; her hair saffron ; she wore quantities of amber beads,
and promenaded the streets unveiled. This fact and her oddity
incited my curiosity. I did not rest until I gleaned the
reason for her pronounced jaundiced appearance. Briefly, the
government regulations provide quarters for a certain debased
class of women, as a sanitary protection to the soldiers there
stationed, and this saffron color is enforced upon the women
habitants of these quarters as an insignia of her nefarious
but authorized calling.

As we were driving away from the commercial town centre
towards the steep hills upon which the marvellous tanks and
gardens are situated, built by the English, we passed the fort
built on the steep side of the hill, which was approached by
almost perpendicular stone stairways, most difficult of ascent.

The architectural formation of the tanks, or water reservoirs,
is most eccentric and picturesque, quarried out of the hard gran-
ite-like stone structure of the hills, and walled up by similar cut
slabs, cemented so as to make the tanks water-tight, ranged at
different degrees up and about the hills in the most irregular
manner. The bald rock surfaces, denuded ot soil, ol the
declivities make the downpouring ot water comparatively free
from earthy particles or other debris; nevertheless every stray
atom accumulated from time to time is carefully collected and

ADEX TO MOMBASA.

removed from the basins of the tanks, and used to improve the
made gardens. It was interesting to watch corps of small boys,
under the direction of an Arab headman, supplied with small
baskets which they carry on their heads, filled with the scant
debris that they industriously collect out of the empty tanks, and

WATER TANKS, ADEN.

transported b)' them up ladders and stairways, to deposit upon
the artificially made flower beds. Although the work certainly
is not arduous, yet it showed that the children are not idle ;
and the)- were as happy as possible while at their work, full
of childish nonsense, giving vent to volleys of gleeful laughter.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

-^^ssmm:

The water is all sold, and doled out with great economy to
the purchasers ; there are some private tanks, and some
leased by the government to indi\iduals or companies. Eleven

months had transpired, at the
time of my visit, since the last
rainfall had filled the tanks, yet
there was abundant water to
last until the rainy season, and
longer in case of drought. It

35^

■i4

'SMMH-^

SON OF THE MAHADI.

is a current story that Aden
has been frequently as long as
five years without rain. I was
surprised to see that the water
showed no signs of stagna-
tion; possibly the clever man-
ner of cementing every crevice, and keeping the tanks free
from vegetation, combined with the daily evaporation and the
nightly heavy dewfall, may account for this. The almost per-
pendicular steps leading to the various serpentine galleries
bordering the tanks were difficult to ascend and descend, for
the bluff walls of the aerial narrow passages, with a narrow foot
tread, and the; tiny bridges with unrailed platforms, make
one's head swim. I found mysell involuntaril)' stretching out
my hands into space, eager to grasp something tangible to keep
me from losing my balance and being dashed below. Seeing
my predicament, my clear-headed escort bade me close my
eyes and rest my hands upon his shoulders whilst we slowly

ADEN TO MOMBASA. 4I

descended ; this I did witli ease and safety, pausing to reassure
myself whenever we attained a more spacious platform. Dotted
here and there, in sequestered nooks, had been planted a few
acacia and other trees, vines and flowers, giving a welcome
shade. Here were usual))- situated water wells, with quaint
sweeps to u[jlift the water, or an old-fashioned bucket and rope.
One felt inclined to peer in the deep shadows for a Rebecca.
Cooing pigeons, affrighted by our presence from their resting-
places, with swelled throats and ruffled feathers, uttered a
strange noise and flew wildly across the open space ; strange
bulbous flowering plants grew out from little crevices almost
devoid of soil. They appeared like wooden vv'ater-jugs, or
water-skins at the base, then abruptly branched out, and with-
out supplementary foliage blossomed into one or two waxy
flowers, pink or white, which emitted a subtle, almost sickening
perfume.

The prevailing drought naturally reduces the soil to a
parched state of barrenness; not a fruit, nor a vegetable, nor
flower grows throughout the town in the open. In the suburbs
there are many very lovely villas facing the Gulf of Aden, occu-
pied by the prosperous merchants and professional residents,
where they seek respite from the heat and moil of the town, and
where fishing, yachting, and sea bathing are the principal
attractions and divertisements.

Driving back to town, I noticed children on the roadside
making mud cakes and mud houses, whilst others engaged in
a game with stones, something like draughts. Somali and

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

pedlers of other nations circulate about tlie streets, offering
for sale shiekls, seme, or swords, ostrich feathers single or
in lonor tin cases, and longr feather boas and little baskets;

however, they always ask
strangers double price, and
dog- the steps of those who
refuse to be imposed upon,
lessening the price, until they
voluntarily accept what they
can get from the customer.

Aden's market place was
diseustine- Arabs and Somali
venders squatting on their
filthy mats, with their vegetables
DELIGHT OF A coRDOFAN. aud Iruits all about them, their

bare, dirty feet indiscriminatel)- thrust among their wares ; some
crouched in front of iron pans placed over a few smouldering
twigs, or over smudgy oil lamps in which they cooked poor,
meagre, dry ears of corn and bananas. The quality of the
fruit offered for sale was wretched ; bananas and apples ab-
solutely rotten, yet they found purchasers. Wood, camel,
sheep, ami goat markets presented a thoroughly Oriental
aspect. The wood on sale consisted of great scraggy loads
of branchiuij faTOts borne on camels or mules, which would
seem to be on the verge of toppling over. When the loads
were sold, the camels were driven into the camel market,
there to lie down or feed, whilst their drivers sprawled about.

*■» .rr-» T ■ i« » ■■ *?i

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

smoking, eating, or sleeping, awaiting some chance to reload
and return to the country, or an opportunity to sell the
animals. The live stock seemed well fed and well condi-
tioned, as in fact do the people. I only observed a few
miserable, crippled, or blind mendicants, sitting in full view at
the entrance of the markets or tunnels, displaying to the very
best advantage their hideous diseased bodies, covered with tlies
and vermin, to which they seemed insensible, emitting liorrible
odors, which fill with discrust the nostrils of those who mieht
be charitably in-
clined.

Fellah woman
wa t er-carriers,
and Arab women
sellinof suijar-cane
and corn, gave a
decided local
color here and
there.

The tunnels.

cut through the
hills, connect the
east and west side
of the peninsula,
saving considera-
ble distance in
the travel across fellah water-carrier.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

or around the steep hills, and are fine pieces of engineering- ;
however, so low studded, they are scarcely better than passage-
ways. Strong, sickening odor ot camels and goats passing
through Hnger a long time after their exit. The neck of land

which makes Aden a peninsula

Lit r. / L J^tiaaw"'

AUVSjIXIAX M,A\E CHILlJl:

is remarkably slender, and
almost obliterated when the tide
is flush.

Many of the Arab houses

are strikingly quaint, covered

Wk. ' ;T T with a latticework of split

bamboo; occasionally there is
a rude attempt at exterior dec-
oration, arabesques daubed on
in the crudest red, yellow,
blue, black, and green, without
any attempt to blend the colors, and it produces a start-
ling effect. The l^arsee temple, the Hindoo mosque, the
Christian churches, are picturescjue edifices. An obscure
path leading to the Parsee Tower ot .Silence, which is erected
on the top of a steep pinnacleil hill, filled me with gruesome
awe. Xo one but a Parsee is ever permitted to visit this
spot. Debarred as 1 was, I could not help thinking, and
depicting to myself the spectacle; there on the top, an open
tower serried with stoni? stretchers, upon which were laid the
dead, exposed to the ravages of the elements, and ulti-
mately to be devoured by filthy carnixorous birds, it seemed

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

repulsively uncanny. Hindoo burial places were indicated by
heaps of stones hardly worthy the dignity of the name
Tumuli. I^aubed with round red spots at the corner of the
heaps of stones, fagots were planted in the ground, from
which floated small red cotton flags, imparting a weird and
barbaric impression on lirst sight. I naively queried, when
seeing the flags from afar, "Are they holding an auction?"
My escort bluntly responded, " Yes, a devil's auction."
The Mohammed burial ground is made noticeable by the
low, arched tombstones upon which are inscribed a quotation
from the Koran, whereas the English " God's acre," a very
unpretentious and meagrely occupied spot, had wooden and
stone head and foot monuments.

Along the roads appear enclosed stone and wooden
laniriiii, lor the accommodation of the people as they journey
to and fro, for they have a decided delicacy, or superstition,
or something else which makes them reluctant to befoul the
earth on a thoroughfare.

We saw enormous fish, a species of ray, being packed on
donkeys, fairly sizzling beneath the direct rays of the sun.
Arabs carry with them on a journey a cliarpoy, or a portable
folding bamboo latticed straight cot, as well as large square
chairs, upon which they curl up to sleep, and use for stands
to display their goods. Arabs, .Somalis, and Indians when
weary will roll themselves up in their cloths and lie down
amid stones or on the hot .sands, and sleep peacefully under
the blazing sun at mid-day, indifferent to human comfort.

46 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

The blacks will stretch themselves out naked, with only a
loin-cloth when the sun is hottest, their black skins shining
and ^listening as the heat causes the palm and cocoanut oil,
with which they are rubbed, to ooze out at everj- pore.
Whereas the white man avoids the direct rays of the sun
when suffering from fexer, the black men lose no opportunity
in submitting to such as a curative agency. The primitive
.simplicity of these tropical people is largely due to climate;
they get along with so little, and seem in admirable condi-
tion and happ)- as the da)- is long. ]\Iy stay on shore did
not permit me time to look into the methods of education,
although I was subsequently informed, on reliable authority,
that there exists a governmental supervision over the chil-
dren and a compulsory educational law.

Native blacksmiths work on the roadsides, making a tem-
porary forge wherever their work happens to be. The)- handle
their tools with considerable adroitness. Egyptian scissors-
grinders and knife-sharpeners form a very picturesque grouping.
If only the people are disposed, they can get plenty of
work at Aden, for it is such a great shipping port. How-
ever, there seems to exist a great aversion to manual labor.
Unless absolutely driven to do so by pressing need, the labor-
ing classes are not possessed with an idea of bettering their
position or of a thrifty provision for the future. They seem
content to live and die in the circumstances and station of
life to which they have been born. It is climatic as much
as aught else.

3
o

a
u

u
<

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

Er.VPTrAN SCISSORS-GRIXDERS.

After the drive we were the guests of Cowerjie Dinshaws,
the celebrated wealthy Parsee merchants, whose commercial
house is the rendezvous for every one coming to Aden. A
delightful breakfast, with a strange and varied menu, was pre-
pared, awaiting our arrival ; and singularly enough, the host did
not sit down at table with us, but said, after seating us and
about to retire himself, " I trust you will do justice to our
house by making yourselves at home." A Mussulman served
us. He was a fat, wabbly, bow-legged, much-turbaned, and
scant-begowned soul, who might have stepped out of the

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Arabian Niehts. Parsees wear the most delicate and sheer
Indian mull oarments, lonor and flowin*'' to their heels, fastened
with gold buttons. Their under apparel is not discernible
beneath the shirt-shaped overdress. Their feet are sandalled.
Indoors they wear a silk skullcap, which they surmount by

NA'rivF. iNris oi-' nikTERS.

a strange black enamelled pot hat for outdoor wear. Some
of the enterprising young men, who travel on business in
other countries, adopt, when abroad, European costumes, all
but the hat. Every person seemed to be well acqu.ainted
with m)' plan to visit East Africa, although wide of the mark

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

<>,,

as to my legitimate motive, and, naturally, had many comments

to make and much gratuitous advice to give. Sir Francis de

Winton, who had been stationed at Mombasa, was at Aden,

awaiting the steamer for England. He considerately sent me

word to prepare against rain if I was going to the interior,

for it had been an unusually dry

season, and it was more than likel)-

to be followed by excessive rain.

He also marvelled wh)' I did not

select the German route instead of

attempting the English. Then I

did not comprehend why, but it

subsequently became obvious that

he was cognizant of the decided

opposition that awaited me on the

part of a certain official in the

English Company. At Aden all the

current gossip and news of the iishiki.

world was buzzed about, as all the different lines of steamers

bound for India, Ceylon, Malta, and Africa anchored in

the port, and passengers ha\-e time to visit the town and

exchange news.

After making extensive supplementar)- purchases, I was
quite content to board the steamer. My Palanquin was much
admired by Messrs. Dinshaw. The senior member of the
firm had an Indian one for his wife, which weighed two hun-
dred pounds ; whereas mine onl)' weighed seventj-, being made

^4 ^

5°

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

of rattan, all the metal mountings of aluminium, the linings
and fittings yellow India silk, the cushions of down, and the
awnines ereen canvas. Had it been more cumbersome, it
would have been impossible to have transported it on the

'\1 M I IAMII.\.

heads or shoulders of men through African jungles, swamps,
over mountains, and across plains.

In reviewing my purchases, arranging and familiarizing
myself with what my possessions consisted in, and what their
uses, and where they were, and in making triplicate in\en-
tories, I discovered myself to be a very busy indi\idLial, with
an increased realization of cares antl responsibility, which I

ADEN TO MOMBASA. 5 1

was not willing to shirk, or relegate to hirelings. Undeniably
the heat gradually increased, but the double ship awnings
and prevailing tranquillity prevented great discomfort. When
we were at table, one of the deck hands, standing out of
sight, pulled a rope through the sk\ light by which he swung
the punkah, keeping the flies from harassing us, as it put
the air in gentle motion. Afternoon naps were in order, as
we lolled in long chairs on deck, and the lazy languor of
the tropics no amount of inherent energy could overcome.
At night when I elected to write in the cabin, one of the
ship's hands, usually a Malay boy, would be sent to fan me.
He would scan me with curious eyes, but never say a word,
nor would he leave his post unless I bade him do so. I
would frequently leave the table and go to my own cabin to
get some necessary article, and return in a few moments ;
meantime the faithful fellow would await my return. One
nieht I left the table to retire, never thinking of m\- faithful
comfort-maker, when, two or three hours afterwards, I chanced
to open my door and found him standing fast asleep, with
the fan grasped in his hand, awaiting my appearance.

One morning at the breakfast-table, where we were all
convened, the chief engineer addressed the captain, —

"Captain, I don't know what we'll do about that drunken
rascal ; he seems to be quite beyond my control."

The captain looked up with a degree of surprise, and
answered brusquely, " I'll take that in hand after breakfast."

The whole thing struck those present as being in

52 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

violation of all ship discipline, but of course none of us
made any comment, and the general chatter resumed its
usual frivolity until the meal was at an end. After getting
settled in ni}- long chair on deck prepared for a comfortable
read, the captain, considerably flustered, followed by the
chief engineer, who spoke in a low, though excited tone,
rushed into his cabin and seized a rattan walking stick, and
after hastily rushing half-way down the deck to the hatch-
way, he abruptly turned around and came towards me, looking
the very picture of suppressed anger, and burst out with, —

"Mrs. Sheldon, look here a moment; I would like to
show to you a living example of the ingratitude of the
fellows we captains try to benefit. For example, we have
on the ship a stowawa)', whom I thought an honest sort
of a chap when he was discovered, and he gave something
of a plausible reason for his trick in trying to get a free
passage, so said, ' Very well, m\" good fellow, we will give
you employment as a stoker.' To this he consented, and
went on all right for some days, but was found beastly drunk
last night while on duty, and do or say what the engineer
might, he has kept up his org)- until we will have to take
stringent measures."

I protested that I did not care to see a drunken man, nor be a
witness to any chastisement. However, the captain persisted, —

" You will do me a favor by coming with me."

So I followed him along to the hatchwa)', where were
collected all the other passengers, the chief engineer, and

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

several of the crew, hot and breathless, appearing as if they
had had a tussle, and curled up on one side was the most
dejected -looking
specimen of hu-
manity one could
possibly conceive
of. His limp fig-
ure was drawn up
into a little heap,
his head hidden
from view by his
arms; a large pail
of water, with tow-
els and sponges,
stood hard by,
and the deck all
about was com-
pletely deluged
with water. Upon
the appearance of siimali ijieen.

the captain and myself, with great excitement the engineer
exclaimed, —

"There's no use, sir, I've tried everything to sober him
up, he's a cure. I've thrown eight or ten pails of water
over him, all to no purpose, and the men have put him on
his feet a dozen times, and he has as often dropped in the
helpless state you see him."

SULTAX T(J SULTAN.

The captain exclaimed, " I'll make short work ot this
business "; and his cane went whistling through the air and
unmercifully fell on the shoulders of the poor wretch.
Involuntarily I exclaimed, " Oh, don't, Captain! don't!"
The captain glared at me and said, " Mrs. Sheldon, I re-
quire no advice in carr)ing out discipline on this ship."

After this snubbing, I was about turning to leave, feeling
it was an outrage to have invited me to be a spectator to
such a scene. With that the captain raised his foot and
kicked the powerless fellow four or five times in succession,
all the while .saying, "Get up! get up!" and I was tempted
to return and offer one more protest in behalf of the poor
wretch, when the captain's heel came down upon the man's
head with a sickening thud, and the skull fairly crushed
beneath the violence used.

With uncontrollable horror and indignation I screamed

out to the captain, as I started
to lly from the spot, "You brute!
you brute ! Don't ever dare to
speak to me on this \-oyage ; I
shall make a report to the ship's
compan)' ! ^'ou are not fit to
command a vessel ! "

Convulsed with laughter, he
sprang round and seized me by
the arm, and all the others

THl- QUF.KN'S SLAVE WUMAX. ^^''^'"'^ silUply bcUt doublc with

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

their merriment, and to my humiliation, I saw the drunken
man's head fly through the air, detached from his body,
a bloodless, lifeless, empty tomato tin ! This effigy of a man,
after having served to tool all the other passengers, who
had with consistent silence kept me from
the knowledge of their betrayment in
order to witness the effect upon me, had
gulled me completely. It can well be
imagined, after having left no loophole
by which to escape in my crazy denun-
ciation of the captain, what a pleasant
day I had. However, some time later,
when we were swinging at anchor in a
certain port, and the captain had given on
shipboard a dinner to the English residents, whilst the even-
ing's enjoyment was at its height, the chief engineer put in
an appearance and said with professed concern, —

" A boatman belonoino- to one of the o-entleman guests
is lying in a perilous position on the ship's rail, and I am
afraid to approach him lest he rolls off into the water."

Aha, Air. Engineer, my time had come, so I sang out in
a loud tone of voice, " Mr. Engineer, had you not better take
a tin-opener to rescue that man ? " and he disappeared from
sight. This time the laugh was on him.

At Lamu the ship's local cargo was discharged by lighters.
There was a heavy tide sweeping into the narrow channel,
and the rocky and sandy coast looked most treacherous.

CHAGA SNUFF-BOX.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Lamu itself was not an inviting spot from the water ap-
proaches. The scraggy, gnarled bushes in view might have
been dead scrub-oak, whilst others resembled cacti.

This is the site of an English station, and at this time quite
a bevy of important men connected with the English Company,
who were preparing to make an official tour up country. Here,
too, is stationed the original of Rider Haggard's " Captain
Good." He is a noted sportsman, bird and butterfly collec-
tor, as well as treaty maker and treaty enforcer for the English
Company. He still wears the storied monocle, and is most
helplessly near-sighted if by any circum-
stance he is deprived of his ocular crutch.

Rider Haggard, during his sojourn at
Lamu, made the studies for " .She," and
obtained the local color with which his
African • romances glow.

There has been foimil, in making
some excavations from time to time,
a considerable quantity ot
hand-painted pottery, cer-
tainly not of African origin,
probably of Portuguese or
other, which ma)' ha\'e been
looted or brought thither

b)- voyagers, buried, as everything is, for safe-keeping in
Africa, subsequently forgotten, or for divers reasons not
reclaimed bv the owners, but now excavated, to the

SUN PROTECTORS.

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

THE SLAVE DHOW.

bewilderment of curio collectors. The o-overnment's attention
has been called to the fact that these relics were being carried
out of the country, and it has prohibited further removal by
the passage of a law.

Some of the native iron workers in this vicinity manufac-
ture knives, and daggers, with ivory handles inlaid with gold
and silver that are really beautiful from an artistic point of
view, although it is with great difficulty examples can be
procured in any number, as the workers are most unreliable,
and dilatory beyond the limits of patience.

The long stretch of sandy coast and narrow waterway,
scarcely more than a creek, leading to the island of Seychelee

58 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

and Lainu, are not in the least imposing or attractive.
Seychelee has affixed to it the extraordinary tradition of
being the refuge of Adam and Eve. Here, too, grows a
variety of cocoanut, rare and higlily vakicd. Its beach is
strewn witli bleached human skulls and bones, to mark the
ghastly tale of a deadly encounter between two hostile tribes
who about exterminated each other. Some time since a
French sailing vessel collected a cargo of these bones for
commercial purposes ! So much for national utilitarianism
and economy !

Very quaint dugouts dotted the harbor, equipped with long,
awkward outriooers of enormous blades like sculls which bal-
ance the crafts as the natives fish. Such black fellows, swathed
about with what was once white sheeting, cast about Avith
eel-jigs, baited with pieces of quivering fresh fish. There can
be no sport in hauling them so caught out of the water.
These fish were a species of silver perch marked with coral
stripes all over the body, whilst the gills were tinted red.

Similar st\"le of boats put out from shore with their lilack-
skinned native crew in quest of a silver bittin from unwary
passengers who might be tempted to trust themselves to
voyage with them to \isit the shore.

When the captain's gig returned from delivering the mail,
although not disconcerted, I was far from being pleased \vith
a very unsatisfactory letter from Mr. George S. Mackenzie.
Despite the assurances I had had in London from important
men in the directorship of the Imiierial British East African

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

Company that everything 230ssible uould be done for me,
and even that they had taken the trouble to cable to their
representative to use his best endeavor to procure porters for
me, this gentleman evidently was neitlier interested in nor in
sympathy -with my " novel enterprise," but, to the contrar\-,
absolutely prejudiced against it.

Like a flash I realized that without doubt he would, if
he could, put a stop to the affair, believing, as he did, that
my advent among the natives in the English occupation of
East Africa would Incur
altogether too much risk
upon the overburdened
company. \Vh)', I could
not imagine, as I did
not ask, nor had I any
intention of so doincj,
the company to act as
my sponsor, or to con-
tribute in any substantial
way to my personal un-
dertaking beyond giving
me full permission to
traverse their posses-
sions, and possibly assist vaki;u.\ lllli.
and advise me how to recruit a caravan. Henceforward I
regarded Mr. G. S. Mackenzie as my Obstacle, silently bear-
ing my chagrin, determined to quietly make my own

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

GKURGK .s. llACKKNZIi:.

arrangements, in so far as I could, without his knowledge or
counsel, and when perfected, proceed with or without his
permission, let the issue be what it might. Strange para-
dox, in the end matters culminated
so that to this same Obstacle I owe
a debt of gratitude. His maddening
opposition developed and tried my
metal, at the same time prepared me
to encounter serious difficulties. I was
convinced that it would be imcompati-
ble with prudence to attempt to start
interior with a caravan until the rain
came. Enforced patience held in
check my impetuosity, awarding me ample time to perfect
and mature my mode of procedure once I should start.

From all communicated to me, it was an open secret that
the Germans were carrying everything by force of arms and
exercising strict military discipline, which they were enforcing
with tyranny upon the natives, who were submitted to a kind
of military servility they had no prior knowledge of, nor any
disposition to accept. The contrast between their national
ways and means of civilizing and colonizing natives and that
generally maintained by the English is extremely obvious and
certainly reprehensible. Throughout the German occupation of
East Africa on all sides there is a tooting of horns, the rat-
tling of guns, the salute of cannons, all that belongs to the
display and announcement of military despotism and rule ;

ADEN TO MOMBASA.

liiKl 1:111.1 l:V VASCO DA f;AMA, SIXTEENTH CENTURY.

whereas the English have no army, no naval force backing'
them to liold their sway over the natives in tlicir occupation
of East Africa, and it is but a question of time when the
natives will voluntarily yield a willing homage and fealty to the
English government which the Germans aim to procure, and
only exact by great stringency of measures. They even
conscript, from native tribes, soldiers to battle against their
recreant neighbor.'* The atmosphere was rife with general
discontent on this score. It may possibly be that some of
the statements have only a figment of truth, they may be all
true. In any event it is as the clown from a ripe thistle,

* Since this went to press, h.ive been received the rumors of English disturbances at Witu and Uganda.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

and was flying about in the air on all sides. My ears were
filled with the unpleasant statement that for divers reasons,
in harmony with the arbitrary policy of the Germans' reign
and rule, they would not permit any alien Europeans to trav-
erse their East African occupation. Alas ! these rumors have
a mysterious " they " that no one can give individuality, or
name, or place to, and this " they," during my sojourn in
East Africa, I discovered had no recognized parentage, no
local habitation or home, but was a bastard, double-headed
monster, most ubiquitous and slippery, and not above the
most petty spites and jealousies. Every one who felt uncertain
as to the origin of an assertion dodged behind " they said."
I had to be patient until the good time arrived when occa-
sion was given to test the veracity of the distracting hearsays,
and discovered them as a whole distorted, and too often
worthless.

The picturesque Fort of Mombasa, built in the sixteenth
century by Vasco da Gama, loomed in sight.

MOMBASA TO ZANZIBAR.

CHAPTER III.

MOMBASA TO ZANZIBAR.

E approached Mombasa in the
sparkling rays of a tropical sun.
It seemed most strange and

unlike any harbor I had ever
seen. It was very diffi-
cult to navigate, not
being properly marked
\ by buoys, but in a most
;, idiotic way the pilot
must steer in line of a
pole no thicker than a
bean stalk to get a course between two pillars no larger
than a good-sized oar planted on shore. The channel is at
best narrow and interspersed with sand bars, consequently
nearly every steamer going into this port runs aground.

There was a great commotion ; all the everybodies and
nobodies, white and black, hallooing, gesticulating in an
e.xcited manner, while rushing along the shore, leaping from
rock to rock, the natives, of course, in such a majority that
the white men appeared most conspicuous. The old Porta-

SULTAN TO SULTAW.

cocoAxrr flantaiion, m(>m}:asa.

guese fort and the low native huts, thatched with cocoanut
leaves, and huddled together, were more interesting than
attractive places of abode. Certain landmarks are conspic-
uous. At last the Imperial British East Africa Co.'s agent, the
ship's agent, and all the usual crowd which throng an incom-
ing steamer in these ports, pushed off in boats and came on
board ; and one who for the moment, in the absence of Mr.
G. S. Mackenzie, was the representative of the I. B. E. A. Co.'s
interest, came on board to see me, and commenced a long
harangue about the impossibility of the company's officers
procuring for me even one porter for my inland journey; and

MOMBASA TO ZANZIBAR. 65

in the course of his conversation he revealed to me the one
prevaihng fact that my Obstacle, Mr. G. S. Mackenzie, did
not approve of my presence, and denounced my undertaking.
Then followed a long dissertation as to the popular idea
of ni)- insane undertaking. This courteous, much-hampered
envoy appeared completely cut up when I calmly inquired, —

" What do the officers of the I. R. E. A. Co. suppose
I want of them, that I am not prepared to get without their
assistance? I require no financial aid, and I have already
obtained permission from those in authority in England to
pass through the English territory."

He looked perfectly abashed for a moment, then graciously
put himself at my disposal in so far as lay in his power as
a gentleman, although as an officer he was utterly powerless
to act.

Many of the posts occupied b\- white men in the English
and German possessions are too insignificant to be deemed

desirable, unless through ^---li^ — ~^^ .^ ""^ i

some concealed or some (_ ,- W^^ V,;!*

ulterior end or aim they ^^ i^-^ .jj. . / -^L^.^ .^—

are sought as a matter of h.\nd showing rings for gifis.

personal eccentricity. It can be imagined that a man of activi-
ties, who enjoys freedom, and possesses a natural propensity
for leadership, should desire to break awa)' from the narrow,
cloying environments of civilized society, with all of its set
rules, conventionalities, shams, and cant, for just such a life
as one might find in Africa. Had I visited East Africa to

66 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Study the anthropology and ethnology of the white man, in-
stead of the native races, I have no doubt the research would
have afforded novel results. However, my curiosity became
keener and keener to study the native Africans, and I
was most eager to get fairl\' at m\' work. All the volun-
teered advice and hints proffered on all sides I was quite
prepared to accept as stock in trade, which might redound,
by judicious application, to my ultimate success. In such a
country as Africa one must have physical force, health, and
endurance, as well as strong mentality, in order to get and
hold control over the natives, in order to command with the
power to govern one's porters. Better mysterious silence
when one is in doubt, than awkward indecision or a displaj*
of blunders and a confession of deficient knowledge. It is
not a country for half-tones or vacillation, at least not while
the natives are in their present state of civilization. The
fact was, it was feared that the consequences of a woman's
leading a caravan might throw the natives into a frcnz)-, bring
difficulties about which would involve the I. B. E. A. Co. in
trouble and expense to come to my rescue.

The Frere Town mission people came to take me to the
lovely spot which overlooks the entire Bay of Mombasa, on
which is erected their mission houses. The native crew were
dressed in the usual length of unbleached body-cloth, bor-
dered with a red stripe and a loose woven shirt. The gen-
tleman who escorted me quite agreed with me that it would
be a mistake to replace the natives' present style of dress

MOMllASA TO ZANZIBAR.

.ARAB OIARTF.RS, Mn.MBASA.

by European iashions, and }et he confessed it would be
most difficult to check the tendenc)', as the home societies
were all the time sending out made-up articles of clothing,
especially for the girls and women, that Avere totally unsuit-
able for their position or the climate ; and the good creatures,
zealously devoted to the propagation of the gospel among
the heathen, were constantly making requests that the con-
verts in the mission should be clothed with Christian decency.
He frankly averred that no one could possibly know
without living in the climate, studying the necessities of it,
and looking into the habits of the people, how utterly pre-

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

posterous are these modern innovations. However, he made
an exception in the case of the best educated native men
who were teachers, saying that " European clothing seemed
to set well upon them."

After landing- I was taken up to what was called the Ladies'
House, Bishop Hannington's old residence, and here was

DATE PALM.

MOMBASA TO ZANZIBAR. 69

cordially received and entertained by the ladies of the mission,
shown about their institution, allowed to inspect the work
taught to the girls, visited the school, and was presented to the
leading man in the work, Mr. Binns. Having been told that
Mr. Mackenzie had incidentally said that Mr. Binns's opinion of
my expedition might lie considered with gravit)-, my desire
was to convince Mr. Binns of the plausibility of my plans.
He perfectly agreed with me that success would attend my
efforts, if I set to work properly. After explaining my aim
to mingle much with the native women and children, I asked,
in order to facilitate the work, if he could supply me with
woman interpreters. .Such a thing had never been thought
of, nor ever before required, and he evinced great astonish-
ment and was decidedly disconcerted when I persisted, saying,
"Certainly, in an old-established mission like this, there must be
among the pupils women or girls capable of interpreting."
Finally he imparted, in an evasive way, his opinion that the
mission girls would have a disinclination to go on safari
(journey), and mix with the rest of the caravan, besides they
would not e.xpect to carry even their own budget ; further-
more, that their education was directed towards making them
teachers in behalf of the mission, and not to acquire money
in secular service. This revealed to me the utter impracti-
cability of their methods of religious training. Such edu-
cational discipline must necessarily undermine their self-reliance
and leave the imprint of irresponsibility upon the native
pupils. The woman missionary workers happily are not so

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

much swaged by supercilious sentiments, and with an amount
of practical common-sense seem to realize that all natives

rescued from
slavery by the
mission have not
b )• nature the
a 1 1 1 i t u d e -which
makes them eliofi-
ble for teachers.
These women
are tr\-ino- to in-
troduce simple,
useful industries,
such as Zanzibar
mat braiding,
and have taken
contracts from
a com m e r c i a 1
house for strine-

SOUDANESF, WARRIORS.

ing barter beads, besides teaching them to sew. The boys
are mainly instructed in Arabic, Ki-.S\vahali, and English;
whicli tits them as porters and interpreters, but so inefficiently
that the mission boys are the horror of most caravans, and
they apply the precepts of their religious training as a cloak
for all their shortcomings. If a lamp is broken by one of
ihem, or anything is lost, or a misdemeanor committed, when
taxed as to wlio did it, with nai've sacrilege, not knowing what

MOMBASA TO ZANZIliAr<.

it means, it is common to hear them exclaim, "Jesus chd it."
And, if reprimanded, the)' reiterate \vith some degree of logic,
" Dio Bwana, Jesus did it. jesus died to save sinners — me
mission boy — Jesus did it." This does not represent an
isolated circumstance, but accords with the experience of
numerous travellers.

.Since my visit to East Africa, Rev. Dr. Stewart, celebrated
as the founder of the Livingstone mission, assisted by Dr.
Moffat (Livingstone's nephew), through the instrumentality of
half a dozen .Scotch philanthropists, has established, about
two hundred and fitly miles from the east coast, an industrial
mission on the most practical lines. He aims to teach the
natives some craft or avocation, according to the trend of
their minds and physical capabilities, which will fit them to
fill the existing demands, or those which may be created, of

the country, and not such as will
have no outlet. It is but just to
declare in favor of the medical men
who go out to uncivilized lands,
either under secular or religious
auspices, that they are truly the
most devoted, abnegating adjuncts
to class or church, and
^^^ if so disposed, can ex-
ercise the most bene-

SNUFF-BOX, STUDDED SILVER, MEIAL CHAIN,
WA-CHAGA.

ficial influence towards
the amelioration and

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

progress of the natives. The women and girls are clothed
in white cotton dresses, made like a chemise, bedecked with

a T 11 r k e )' - r e d
stripe around the
skirt, low neck
and short sleeves.
Most of them
have their ear
lobes distended
to an accepted
size by a paint id
method of intro-
ducincr graduated
plugs ; then they
wear as an orna-
ment leaves of
)• o u n g pal m s
coiled very tight-
1\- and trimmed

AkAl'. WClMW

1,1 m; i;an'axas lo porter.

so as to display the white veining that runs through the
centre of the leaf, which makes a spiral and looks very
pretty. Some of the grander natives disport fine brass ear
ornaments. They are permitted to wear their bead neck-
laces and bracelets. The girls who have not their hair
shaven tight to their head coiffure it in an elaborate and
intricate fashion. It is impossible to comprehend how they
can braid it in such an endless variety of patterns, so

MOMBASA TO ZANZIHAR.

O O Q

'=y. «

f=^=P

neatly and closely to their heads, in tiny flat plaits, each
strand pressing close against the scalp at ever)' turn,
and not in long pendent strands. All of the girls and
women are splendid boat-women, and
manceiure their ugly, heavy, awkward
canoes with a skill equal to the boat-
men. They eat squatting" on the ground
or at a long table with their wooden or
metal basins before them filled with por-
ridge, which they gather up with their
fingers and roll into a ball and stuff
into their mouths in the most piggish
way. Not only does this habit obtain
with the children, but adults eat in the
same manner. It seems to afford an
imfaxorable commentary on the methods
of education employed. Their dormito-
ries are of the rudest kind, — a long
shanty or room, where a certain number
of eirls and women are alloted a lone
trestled couch, the spaces divided for
each occupant by mats ; but there is no
attempt to provide that order of privacy
which develops the refinement of civil-
ized decency. As a rule they eat one
meal daily, when they stuff themselves gourd sxuff-bo.k, stud-

. ,• .• 1 ^- TTTi , DED SILVER AND CARVED

to disgustmg repletion. Whenever they p^^-terns, wa-chaga.

o C o'cO o " J

* '0 SC

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

can o-et fruit they munch it at all times, and drink to their
detriment fermented cocoanut milk, called tembo, upon which
they frequently become intoxicated. This does not so often

occur in the mission as
in the freer life outside.
The bread, alike for the
whites and blacks, is
raised with tembo
yeast. The mission
people, being c o n -
vinced that it creates
an appetite for drink,
try to supply for their
own followers, as well
as those in the vicini-
t)-, bread raised with
other yeast. The
women pound the corn
and millet in stone and
wooden mortars, with a
c ] u m s )• \v o o d e n or
stone pestle. Mothers bear their babes suspended in a
cloth upon their backs whilst pounding the grain, without
evincing any fatigue. I asked one woman why she did not
put the little one down whilst at work. She looked puzzled
for a moment, then smiled, and pointed to an ant hill, thrust
her fingers into her mouth and caressingly touched her baby.

ARAB I'.LIN'II REGGAR.

MOMIiASA Tn ZANZIBAR.

Inspired by a secondary thought, she swayed her body in
a rocking manner and ciooned out, "La-la." Her first pan-
tomime simply indicated that she feared her babe might be
eaten by the voracious ants ; the second, that the monoto-
nous rocking motion whilst she pounded the grain put her
infant to sleep. Soon as the children are weaned, they are
placed in a special house, to which is attached a circular
cemented playground, where they are daily amused, cared
for, and taught by a native woman until able to attend the
schools. The maternal wisdom displayed by the lad)' mis-
sionaries in the employment of a native mother teacher is
beyond question, for she could know at once the little one's
ailments and administer some simple native medicine ; she
could learn better than a white woman its little grievances

and soothe them. Then, too, she
is infinitely better adapted to under-
stantl what would best amuse the
little ones. The custom should be
emulated.

On the ^Mombasa wharf and
shore, hosts of nude boys and girls
were plunging into the water irom
the framework of a
pier over seventy feet
high, giving vent to
hilarious shouts of de-

SNT'FF-l'.OX, ST'JDDED SILVER, MEFAL CHAIN,
WA-CAHGA.

lieht and vving^ with

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

each other. They dive feet down, and are most expert swim-
mers. Respecting the amphibious traits of the natives in
Africa, an English officer exploits the fiction that some ante-
cedent of tlie African race was crowded off the ark and had
to swim or drown.

Noticeable on the shore were women and boys of the
Wanyki tribe, presenting the most extraordinary distortion of
the abdomen, which they esteem a great beauty. The abdo-
men is bulging and rotund and like a lesser dome upon a
larger dome ; the umbilicus has been distended by artificial in-
flation during infancy to the size of a tennis ball. I was per-
mitted to witness the abnormal operation. Many of the women

MOMBASA TO ZAiNZIBAR.

wear kilted skirts of common dark blue muslin, seldom over a
foot long. Such a jumble of white men and total absence
of white women can hardly be conceived of; no man seemed
to be in the place that he was fitted to occupy, yet he had
signed a three years' iron-bound contract. Some of these men
were refined and highly educated, from the great centres
of the world ; fired by ambition, stimulated by a desire
to enlarge their horizon, they had sought these openings,
scarcely realizing the deprivations incumbent upon their
posts and the monotony thereof. Others were volunteers
from the humblest ranks of life. Unfortunately there are
no white women, apart irom the tew woman missionaries ;
hence these men are thrown
promiscuously together and
too much upon their owm re-
sources, and the customary
habit of taking " pegs " —
brandy and soda or whiskey
— in the course of time, in
too many instances, enervates
alike the constitution and
character, although many of
the men become so inured to
the habit they never are the
slightest bit maudlin. Of
those eentlemen whom I met

on the coast and elsewhere in

ABVSSIN'UX SL.-iVE GIRL.

78 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

East Africa, I must proclaim that, with few exceptions, they
acquitted themselves in a most manly way, and extended to me
upon every occasion offered the greatest courtesy. It was
touching to witness their efforts to entertain me under trying
conditions, so devoid of outside resources, far away from marts,
and how they ransacked their meagre stores to get little deli-
cacies, and how earnestly they hunted to bring in a bit of
choice game. They were to a man on their best behavior,
and put their best foot forward in extending the amenities
refinement prompted. They did all they could for my com-
fort and convenience. Men never could have been more
charming nor more circumspect in their deportment. Occa-
sionally, when as my guests on safari, they would accompany
me for a day or so, their good-natured acceptance of my
leadership and willingness to accede to my arbitrary rule of
camp, and order of march, proved them to be well-bred men
and admirable disciplinarians. To these gentlemen, none of
them I regret to say of my own nationality, I desire to make
public acknowledgment of heartfelt appreciation.

There were the usual friction and dissension belonging to
occupants of newly defined posts in a new enterprise, with the
tendency to revolt against conditions. In due course, with
experience gained by the directors as well as the men, these
crossgrained things will modify themselves.

I went on shore to visit the quaint old fort, which is a
superb ruin, and has a fine outlook towartl the sea, and gives
one a bird's-eye view of Mombasa, with the native huts huddled

MOMllASA TO ZANZIBAR.

NATIVK WARRICJRS.

as close together as possible, with their quaint cocoanut roof
thatchings. Here I had pointed out to me my first line of
march away from the English settlement that I should take
if I went away from the coast. The fort was occupied by
Capt. Rogers, who commands a troop of sepoys loaned by

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

the government to the British East African Company. In
the fort quarters there were some Arabs stationed, who
disported magnificent studded cutlasses and belts, as valuable
as they are beautiful. They are worn thrust into the belt in
front. Leaving the fort, my attention was called to the
superbly carved doors and lintels, which are evidently of
Portuguese and Persian origin, forming the entrances to tumble-
down buildings. The streets were quaint, circuitous passage-
ways. The ivor)' custom house possessed considerable
interest to me, as the bids were given and accepted by a
Parsee commissioner, in order to appraise the value of the

tusks, and assess
duties. A scribe
cut little Arabic
l1 e s i g n s upon
each tusk valued
and passed.

An excursion
was arranged, to
my delight, to
take me over
the seven miles
and a half tem-
poraril)' laid of
the Victoria
Nyanza Railroad,
SOMALI wAKRioKs. mooted as the

MOMBASA TO ZANZIBAR.

greatest of all benefactions for East Africa when once
completed.

I was greatly chagrined to be informed that there was not
to be hired a single porter at Mombasa ; so, after meeting and
discussing my open plans with my Obstacle, whom I finally
succeeded, by diligent argument, in convincing that, despite
his intense prejudice to my j^roposed undertaking, at
least I very decidedly had considered its magnitude, the
personal risk involved, and the immense liability incurred, he
seemingly became my advocate, and
so far consented to my application
for permission to go through Eng-
lish territory as to say, "If you can
form a caravan at Zanzibar, I will
put no barriers in )-our way." I
mistrusted it mig-ht be a o;enteel
evasion on his part to checkmate

EAR STRETCHER WORN BY MIS-

me, and yet avert the disagreeable- sionary girls, mombasa.
ness of out-and-out opposition. With propitiatory gallantry
he even proffered for my use when, if I should return
from Zanzibar, his fine, airy bungalow at Kilandini, a suburb
of Mombasa; although unfurnished, he urged it would be a
cool and airy place of refuge, much better than to camp
in the open, although I was quite prepared to do that if
necessary. In passing, I would say my Obstacle had
advanced the objection to me that Mombasa was an unfit
place for a lady, because there were no hotel accommodations.

SULTAN TO SL'LTAN.

So by this gentleman's recommendation, with all my
goods and chattels, which I had largely Increased by additions
in the different ports, I betook myself to Zanzibar on the
" Madura," full of apprehension, but determined to turn over
every stone before admitting I was frustrated, and try what
skill I had at recruiting and organizing a caravan.

FORMI^G MV CARAVAN.

CHAPTER IV.

FORMING MY CARAVAN.

'ORMING my caravan — how to
do it, and how long it would
take me — monopolized my entire
thoughts, to the exclusion of all
others, in the short voyage to Zanzi-
bar. Notwithstanding that practical obsta-
jfei- cles had arisen, and rebuffs whistled like
V/i\ small shot on all sides, I never quaked
even secretly beneath a vague forecast of
'■-' * defeat.
Alas! at Zanzibar I found that my world-renowned reputa-
tion of mad woman had preceded me, to my prejudice. In
America, England, Aden, and Mombasa, and now here, I
had to listen to and confront as best I could public censure.
The bare idea that a woman should be foolhardy or ignorant
enough to dare to enter Africa from the east coast and at-
tempt to penetrate interior as far as the Kilimanjaro district
of the late Masai raids, at a time when great disturbances
had been provoked by the Germans and a revolt was brew-
ing, and essaying thus to do as the sole leader and com-

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

mander of her own caravan, — the thing was preposterous, and
the woman boldly denounced as viad, mad, principally be-
cause there was no precedent for such a venture ; it was a
thorough innovation of accepted proprieties. It never had
been done, never even suggested, hence it must be im-
possible, or at least utterly impracticable, and certainly out-
side a woman's province.

MOMBASA FROM ENGLISH I'OINT.

Zanzibaris porters could never be induced to go into a
district terrorized over by bloodthirsty, buccaneering Masai
on safari (journey) led solely by a woman. Any woman
with such intentions, whoever she might be, must take no
offence when set down as a reckless fool. The movement
ought to be first scoffed, then, if necessary, obstructed, and
finally, if need be, prohibited by the authorities. Despite
her intrepidity, or her attributes for leadership, or her ability
to spurn hardships as she might dangers, she must be irra-

FORMINC; MV CARAVAN. 85

tional in attempting such a liazardous vindertaking, and doubt-
less would gladly abandon not only an ambitious but impracti-
cal and suicidal plan when once she was properl)' informed of
the clangers, and convinced of the uncontrollable odds against
her. Having listened to these same sort of protests and
persuasions until my ears were dulled to their unsavory
repetitions, — aye, in truth, I think I knew the formula of
every objection by rote and rule, and could ring the changes
as deftly as my opponents, — did these gentlemen know
that my empire of folly was not ostracized, and that
I had received over two thousand applications from both
men and women, as a rule accredited with unusual sense,
occupying almost every rank in life, and the majority of them
professional and scientific men, entreating me to allow them
to accompany my free and independent expedition ?

The most insuperable difficulty urged upon me was the
fact that there were no porters to be had, even at Zanzibar,
so manj' caravans had been equipped for the Germans as well
as for the I. B. E. A. Co., and for some private expeditions
that had combined to drain the country oi available porters.

After much persuasion, Mr. Boustead, one of a firm for
equipping caravans, agreed to constitute himself my agent, if
I so desired, and endeavor to obtain fifty men to go with me
to the interior, without any masculine European to aid me.
This, however, he did in a very discouraging way.

" If it were a feasible scheme, even then there are not fifty
men to be had," he urged. " Besides, Zanzibaris would not

SULTAN TO SULl'AiN.

manner,
succeed.

consent to go in
such a small
number into
hostile Masai
land, and cer-
tainly not with-
out being prop-
perl)' armed."

I protested,
urged, argued,
and finally got
him to consent
to try. I wanted
to start from
jMombasa within
a fortnight;
hence he must
work sharp to
collect the men
and to provide
the necessary
supplies. My
urgency for
speed was met

M. FRENCH-SHELDON. BEHi; r.WANA. in a d U D I O U S

He would try, but he had no hope he should
Then cropped up another vital reason for delay.

FORMING MY CARAVAN.

There was no water in the interior, and would be none until
the rains. Very well, then, I would wait until there was rain,
if he would set to work about the caravan, in order that
I should not be detained when the auspicious time came.
That very day the rain fell in torrents.
I asked him if

influence with the
Sultan would aid
him in any wa)'.

" Certainly it
would."

So I proceeded
to use my diplo-
matic passport,
and, through the
courtesy of Ameri-
can Consul-Gen-
eral Ropes at Zan-
zibar, arranged for
an early audience
with the Sultan.
There were cer-
tain difficulties
herc:; again to be
encountered. It
was unusual for
his Highness to

ti^ffr^^(2i^?^'^ v-A.\

SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR.

8S SULTAN TO SULTAN.

receive a lady, but, in consideration of Consul-General Ropes's
persuasive arguments in my behalf, — that I was the first lady
to attempt to lead a caravan that history had ever known,
and various flattering claims he made for my personal im-
portance, — a message came to say the next day at four he
would receive me, but I must come alone, conducted to his
Highness by two dragomen, who would attend me from the
consul's residence to the palace. As I walked through the
narrow, dirty apologies for streets, sandwiched between these
two marked dragomen, with all the black people gazing at
me as they deferentially drew aside to let me pass, and
squatted on their heels in lieu of bowing, the thought came
flashing into my brain that even these wretched blacks, in
their debasement, imagined the very worst thing possible
about the white woman, and I felt choked with self-indigna-
tion that a freeborn American woman should have sought
the opportunit)' to conspicuously place herself in such a ques-
tionable position ; then the absolutism of my one determina-
tion asserted itself, and the humiliation was from thence a
mere detail, albeit keen and uncomfortable.

Arriving at the palace, which is a most unpretentious
structure, I was conducted up a flight of long stairs and
was met by the Sultan on the landing. The few words of
salutation in Ki-Swahali I had mastered came tripping off
my tongue in response to the Sultan's jajiibos, obsequious
smiles, and bows of welcome. After these ceremonious pre-
liminaries were over, one of the dragomen was commanded

FORMING MV CARAVAN.

by the Sultan to act as interpreter. The walls of the large,
showy saloon were hung with red panels embellished with
quotations from the Koran in embossed gilt characters ;
great showy crystal chandeliers hung from the ceiling; tables

WHITE IVORV.

of beautiful inlaid workmanship were ranged through the
centre of the room, and tall-backed gilt chairs with crimson
satin cushions were arrano-ed in a stilted fashion througfhout
the long saloon. The floor had a crimson velvet carpet with
such thick pile the tread of feet became noiseless.

Once seated at one of the tables, feeling flushed by the
curious scrutiny of all the attendants who hovered about,
I was gratified when the Sultan ordered a particularly staring

90 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

oleaginous creature to serve coffee. This I drank witli relish;
l)ut no sooner was my cup partially empty than there was a
quick succession of various sorts of sherbets paraded for
my refreshment; trul)' they were marvellous concoctions of
all colors, beginning with brown, closely followed b)' red,
green, and white syrupdike fluids in the daintiest glasses
imaginable ; but, with suspicion, I avoided the strange, spicy,
honeyed beverages ; only touching the rim ot each glass with
my forefinger, then, out of courtesy, pressing my finger to my lips
in sign of satiety, to excuse my declining such choice nectars.

Subsequent to these delicate civilities, the .Sultan explained,
with evident embarrassment, that it was not his custom to cere-
moniously receive ladies, nevertheless he was quite desirous to
be of service to me in every possible way. This was my chance
to tell him of my proposed expedition to Kilimanjaro and
Masai land. Pulling his joho (long loose embroidered coat)
around him, e.xposing his bare feet encased in sandals, he
expressed regret that I should desire to go to such a danger-
ous, wild section of Africa, and wished I might be dissuaded.

"Is not Zanzibar charming? Why not linger here as the
friend of the Sultan ? "

"No, not dissuaded," I firmly rejoined: "however, his
Majesty could make It far easier and safer for me, it he telt
inclined."

Again he wrapped his splendid gold-embroidered jolio
about him with a certain majesty and said Imperiously, "Com-
mand us and it shall be done."

FORMING MV CARAVAN'.

Explaining the difficulties my agent experienced in pro-
curing porters, I urged that he would aid me b_\- having all
slaves volunteering speedily sworn in on the followino- Satur-
day ; and when masters interfered with their slaves, or mid-
dlemen objected,
to declare him-
self my friend,
and command it
otherwise.

"It shall be
done."

He ordered
his band to play
some special
pieces in m )•
honor, which, as
usual, wound up
the performance
by the national
anthem, an ex-
plosive pot-
pojirri. When I
was on the point of leaving, after drenching me with otter of
rose, he invited me, with great effusiveness, to return on
the following Friday with a woman interpreter, to visit
his harem ; he also placed a carriage at my disposal during
the entire time I remained in port, — I will not mar the lustre

SULTAN S -IHREE HKN'CH.MKN.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

of his gallantry by describing the Sultan's vehicles and horses,
— and he offered to take out his war ship "Glasgow" for
my pleasure. This war ship, by the by, it is satirically said,
was presented to the Sultan by a celebrated shipbuilder for

the paltry sum of $200,-
000 (/40,000).

Friday's arrangements,
owing to the difficulties
of procuring a woman
interpreter, either from
the mission people or
through my agents,
seemed to be una\oida-
bly cancelled when I re-
woMAN OF THE HAREM. celved a message from

the .Sultan summoning me to come, as he had himself se-
cured the services of a woman interpreter. So I went, and
received a most friendly reception. Through locked and
barred doors I was conducted from one of the palaces —
there are three in a row — to the other; and finally reaching
a large saloon, the place where the interpreter was dismissed,
that was in wild disorder, like the show-room of a barbaric
merchant prince, — a dazzling variety and array of valuable
gifts, curios, all sorts of purchasable splendors heaped incon-
gruously one upon another upon tables, on the floor, and
nothing showing to any advantage, the only impression given
was of quantity and enormous value.

FORMING MV CARAVAN.

The Sultan's eldest daughter was brousfht !n In' a black
woman slave, attended by two little black slave boys.

With a flash of pride the Sultan exclaimed, " See how a
Sultan dresses his daughter! Look well, and tell to other
Europeans how splendid are her jewels." The heavy gold
anklets worn by this little child, but five years of age,
impeded her moving with any freedom. Her crown, studded
with jewels, must ha\'e pained her tender brow ; and the
gorgeous as well as curious necklaces suspended one upon
another to the number of a dozen, and numerous bracelets
and fineer rings, certainlv must have been burdensome.
The Sultan's lament is that he is unfortunate in having three
dauo'hters and no sons. He

was curious to know if I had
children, and when the nega-
tive response was conveyed
to him, he asked boldly,
" Has your husband many
wives?" He smiled in a
cynical way.

" Certainly not," I re-
torted with some contempt,
vexed by his effrontery.

At this juncture a heavy embroidered portiere was drawn
aside by two Malay eunuchs, whose tongues were cut out
to limit their power of disclosing secrets, and there appeared
a hauo-hty woman, gorgeously attired. Possessed with all the

WOMA>f OF THI5 HXREM.

94 SUI.TAX TO SULTAN.

Imperious disdain of an empress, she approached me, and
rudely threw out her hand to me, at the same time ungra-
ciously darting a glance of outraged feeling upon me. This
then was the Sultana ! Poor woman, did she presume I
was another usurper of her legitimate place? Only a few
moments expired when she was ushered out by two gross,
horrid, greasy eunuchs, and the portiere was drawn over the
closing door. Within ten minutes after her Highness's exit,
through another door entered in Indian file woman after
woman of the Sultan's harem, to a number most amaz-
ing. Each one In turn approached me, extending her hand.
To the first, who was a fine, frank-looking creature, I
arose to respond to her greeting, when the Sultan waved
me down, —

" Do not trouble )-ourself lor them. There are too man\-,
all alike, and not worth it."

Some of these poor, degraded concubines were sad-eyed
and full of sorrow, others seemed defiant and triumphant,
and yet others looked envious. Comparing the vast difter-
ence in the costliness and quantity of their jewels and
dresses, it flashed across my mind that these distinctions were
marks of favoritism. Each and every one of these royal
concubines, at the command of the Sultan, bathed my
right foot in rose-water, and In recognition of my superi-
ority and evidence ol their humlllt)-, each ga\e me one
of her jewelled rings. The sum total was one hundred and
fort)- two.

FORMING MV CARAVAN.

M^.

\VA

c)^-^vv

SULTAN S PASSPORT.

TRAXSLATIOX OF SULTAN'S LETTER.
In the name of God the meyoiful, the eo/fipassionate.
From Ali Bin Sa'iij.

To nil who may see it, and to proceed : This respected American lady is one of those
arriving here and travelling into the region of Kilimanjaro; and I command that everv
one who meets her, or with whom she puts up, shall receive her with absolute regard and
attention, and shall restrain any one who interferes with her; for she is one of those who
are much esteemed by us. This is fur the information of those whom she may meet.
And peace be with you.

Written on the seventeenth of the month Sha'han. in the year 13US 4 (March 2, ISDl).

I>y the order of

ABDAL AZIZ BINf MOHAMMED.

96 SUITAN TO SULTAN.

The Sultan, after sliowing me about through the private
rooms, as he professed he had never previously shown any
one, queried what I thought of it all. With true American
frankness, I declared it atrocious. He said he would gladly
renounce his harem, " But I should lose my Arab constitu-
ency."

Most cautious man as this .Sultan is respecting signing
papers, always suspicious of some governmental policy that
will in\-olve him, he offered to vise my passport. This I
declined, desirous that he should give me a special letter to
any Arab caravans 1 might encounter on my route up
country. This he did. He also gave me his autographed
photograph ; and I had the Sultan's word he would always be
more than pleased to serve me in an\' possible way as his
friend. His gifts were most lavish ; a pair of Muscat dogs,
and four Muscat donkeys, which policy dictated it was
best to decline. .Saturday my men were sworn in without
the usual difficulty, and when the steamship "Madura" sailed
out of port I had the satisfaction of knowing that in six days
the so-called impossible had been accomplished, and by a
woman. Eight of my people were on the ship. My headman
of headmen, Hamidi, one of the best known and most reliable
of Zanzibaris, had come to pledge to me perfect faithfulness.
I had started out with the idea of ha\-ing plenty of women
as j)orters, and to have a native woman interpreter. I saw
only one native woman who could in any way fill the
recjuirements of the latter [jost, and ni)* conscience would

FORMING MV CARAVAN.

not allow me to employ her, much as I desired, as she
had started for the mission a children's school, which would
have come to a
standstill if she
was taken away.
As a slave, when
a child, she had
been rescued
from her cruel
captivity and be-
friended by the
mission people,
educated and
s u p p o r t e ci b)' ^
them during her
helpless child-
hood; although
she had been in akai; i.i.hek-writer.

other employ since, until the school was inaugurated, she
scrupulously owned that the mission had a first claim upon
her services, — a sentiment in which I accorded.

We steamed back to Mombasa. There, for the first time,
my freight and luggage, which were far from being modest,
were disembarked, for I had taken everything with me to
Zanzibar in case I should be compelled to go to Kilimanjaro
through German territory, via Bagamoyo or Pangania.

Malignant fever was raging at Zanzibar, and a general

^gr

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

panic possessed nearly every European resident. Clinical
thermometers flourished, and a friend's or an acquaintance's
temperature was a theme for open discussion on the high-
ways and byways. It was and is the universal practice dur-
ing an epidemic for every one to test his or her own tem-
perature several times daily. A friend meets a friend ; the

daily bulletin of
their respective
temperatures is
discussed. " INI )'
temperature is
I o 2 , what is
y o u r s?" " Mine
is 103, and I'm
going to get a
chance to go on
board of one of
the war ships."
" Poor So-and-So's
temperature was
107 this morning,
they have him in
an ice bath. He'll

ARABIAN MUSICIAN.

pass in his chips ! " This habit is one of the most ridicu-
lous and pernicious, rendering many a person liable to fever,
and should be tabooed.

Zanzibar to a stranger presents the guise of a pest-ridden

FORMING MV CARAVAN.

SUGAR-CANE SEI.I.F.R.

lOO SULTAN TO SULTAN.

land. No sewerage, and all the fikh pitched into the sea to
ebb and How with the tides, polluting the atmosphere and
stinking in one's nostrils. The streets are narrow, crooked,
and dirty. Bazaars are everywhere, and bedecked with all
sorts of articles. I took oreat delight in watching an Arab
family at table, also an Arab woman selling sugar-cane.
Oranges of the most luscious variety and .sweet limes and
mangoes were extremely cheap and plenty. There are two
very good clubs, and nothing else but dinner parties and
a montonous drive of seven miles for recreation. A .Sunday
spent with a friend at his sJunnba (country place) is always
enjoyable. There are never but a very few white women,
the wives or relations of the consuls. When a war ship
or a steamer is in port, the residents are permitted an oppor-
tunity to go on board, and the commanders frequently
inaugurate a series of little dinners or luncheons ; but at
best the outlook is very circumscribed, and a man's ambition
must, in the end, be downed. Girl water-carriers made a
pretty picture going in bevies to and from the wells, carry-
ing their hammered copper, brass, and earthen pots upon their
heads ; one girl always supplied with a long-handled ladle,
the dipper part made of a calabash.

Upon return to Mombasa, Mr. Mackenzie, no longer my
Obstacle, but my converted friend, with kind courtesy ten-
dered me the use of his large, airy, two-storied bungalow,
most picturesquely surrounded at Kilindini, during my sojourn,
while awaiting the balance of my caravan.

FORMINC; -MY CARAVAN.

lOI

The scenery and lov^ely climate made the nine ilays of
my tarriance well worth I'emembering. The principal men
associated with the difierent departments ot the I. 15. E. A.
Co. called upon me.
One can but be amazed
at the kind of men that
have taken up their work
so far away from all that
civilization means to men
of education and ability.
There are but few coun-
terfeits of houses. Every
one must live in a struc-
ture of four corrugated
zinc walls, with a tuakota
(cocoanut leat ) plaited
thatching placed over a
zinc roof. Most ot the
dwellings are constructec
right upon the ground, okkvish musician.

and the best of them have only a cemented floor and out-
sheds. There is a slanting makota-pent forming the cover-
ing to a rude veranda, beneath which it is the custom to lie
and sit during the hot noonda)-, as well as during moments
of leisure, where long chairs are ever in view, and dripping
calabashes of water hanging to cool where the air freel)-
circulates.

I02

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

MOJIBASA.

Tlierc are no luxuries, not even proper comforts in this
new countr)-, where young men have rushed with the love
of adventure and the hope ot making a mark for themselves
and achieving a future. .Somehow there seems to be a fas-
cination enshrininof adventurous Africa for fine, eneryfetic men
who are fired with ambition. Alas I I greatly fear all is
not as they pictured it in their tar-away homes. There is no
royal road in this new El Dorado. Ability, steadfast work,
patience, abnegation, and time are the only stepping stones.

One week alter leaving Zanzibar my entire caravan
arrived at Mombasa, and in the late afternoon, with songs of
salutation and general yells resounding through the shaniba
of Kilindini bungalow, there came ninety-five porters, askari.

KORMIXi; MV (/ARAVAN.

103

palanquin bearers, headmen, and interpreters, making my little
army of Zanzibaris up to the g-oodly number of one hundred
and three. Seventy ot these men were to be armed with
guns. The balance carried knives. It was only under
this condition porters could be induced to go into the
Masai countr\-. They camped as they could until Monda\,
when all my loads woukl bj delivered from the dhow. I
gave the porters one and all a general address as to ni)' retjuire-
ments from them, and what to expect if they were unfaithful.
To all I said they replied, " Dio " (yes), and " Inshallah" (God
willing). The same shuffling irresponsibility as with whites.

HARBOR OF ZAN'ZIliAR. SULTAN S PALACE.

I04 SULTAN TO SULTAN

SfSj^'—J

FORMING MV CAKAVAX.

TRAVSLATION.

To all Arabs and Siualiilis travelling in ike interior : This is to inform you that this
lady, to whom I have given this letter, is my friend, and I wish every one who meets her
caravan to be kind to herself and her porters, and to do everything to help her safari. Any
one who does this, and brings a letter from her to say she is pleased with what has been dune
for her, will receive thanks on arrival at Muml^asa. Should any one interfere with her caravan,
annoy her in any way, and do any act of disrespect to her, will be considered to have offentled
the company, and will be treated and punished accordingly.

(Signed) GEORGE S. MACKENZIE.

Mombasa, 4th April, ISOl.

In my caravan I found I had men who had been with
several great explorers, and with some of the big game
hunters who had memorialized Cha^a land as the Hunters'
Paradise. I looked with amazement over all these strange
black and every shade of brown faces, with much brutality
imprinted thereupon, and marvelled if I should always be
able to control them and make them subservient to my com-
mands. After a moment's contemplation I felt somehow that
I should, and would not have hesitated to have started at
once with the lot as they stood, for a three years' journey
The work in providing the right and infinite variety of beads
and wire and cloths for barter to procure food for all this
body of men, for no longer a period even than three months,
was a great anxiety, and, when properly clone, 1 had more
loads than men, and was forced to telegraph to my agent
to get for me thirty more porters and have them follow me
to Taveta. \Mien the)', with the headman and two soldiers
{askari), arrived, I had one hundred and thirty-eight men.
Usually many desert, for they receive so much of their wages
in advance ; in this instance, three months'. However,

io6

SULTAN 'R) SULTAN.

BLAi_ K l\iiRV.

the Fates were in my favor, for, upon calling the roll, there
were only a few who had remained at Zanzibar, and these
were replaced by \nlunteers.

When Monday came, and the guns, which were
brought to me b)' a chain gang, were distributed, Mr. Mac-
kenzie harangued the people, telling them if the)- deserted
and were found by him or his agents, they should be con-
demned to serve a )ear in the chain gang. The Sultan had
promised any miscreant far v.orse punishment, — to cut their
throats if black-listed. Then there was a heavy penalty put
upon the whole caravan, and for that matter upon me too,
respecting the firearms. No one could sell, or lose, or

FORMING MY CARAVAN.

107

break his gun without a fine of about forty dollars, — double
the value of the gun when new. All this, I was assured,
was in my behalf, and doubtless proved a great protection to
me, although I could not refrain from expressing temporary
indignation at what seemed extortion. So, gathering up all
the loads, carefully numbered, embarking my Palanquin and
all the people in a large dhow, and some in smaller boats,
the I. B. E. A.'s steam launch, for a given sum of rupees towed
us across to Railroad Point, and from there we were reall)-
to make the first start the next morning.

io8

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER V.

THE FIRST ^L\RCH.

H-COVETED rain.
with its heralded season
of benefits, propitiated
us, and the entire cara-
van was atlirill with de-
Hght, knowing" how the
liardships and fatigues
of the safari (journey)
they liad enlisted for
would be ameliorated
now that they could anticipate plenty of water.

Having put out from Kilidini at a late hour, although
our point of landing was a short distance abo\e and across
the narrow stream, in consequence of the weight of loads, the
throng of people, and the swift current, we reached Railroad
Point, after considerable delay, too near night to make any
progress on our journey. Persuaded by the officers of the
I. B. E. A. Co. stationed here, I consented with pleasure to
remain over nifjht as the cri-iest of mv friend, Mr. C. Mac-
donnell Lemmi, who most graciously vacated his premises for

THE FIRST MARCH.

109

my personal accommodation, whereas my men camped in the
adjacent open. If so inclined, my friend could have boasted
of being the possessor of the most tasteful dwelling there-
abouts. Instead of giving wa)' to the uninviting barrenness
and uncon-

geniality of
his sur-
roundings,
he had with
self-respect
exerted
himself to
make the
best of con-
d it ion s in
his endeav-
or to main-
tain a sem-
blance of
his inbred

JOSEFE AND NATIVES.

home refinement. The interior of his tin\- corrugated abode
was daintily hung with bright trade cottons, and photographs
were grouped about on the walls and tables ; his toilet arti-
cles were arrayed in such a fashion as to betray his fondness
for elegance ; the floor was covered with prett)' Zanzibar mats,
upon which were spread lion and leopard skins, and over the
chair backs were draped bits of bright cotton stuffs ; a large

I lO

SLl.TAX Til SUI.TAN.

ARAI'.S RKSTIXn.

THE FIRST MARCH. I I I

Milan plush rug answered for a bedspread. Everything, with-
out being costly, was most decorative, and presented a vivid
contrast to the heedless don't-care manner most men permit
themselves to lapse into when isolated from home tics.
Some wa)' it was ineHaljl)- touching to witness these evi-
dences of this great stalwart man's clinging to the artistic
conventions of his far-away Italian home lite. He was one
of the "wise men" who, according to Shakespeare, "make
every port a happy ha\en," antl never made a display ot his
disappointments when his dreams were discounted by stern
reality, but, to the contrary, tried to infuse fact with fancy.
Denied the refined companionship of white women for a long
time, this man was most charmed to have the lleeting oppor-
tunity to converse with mc ; and I have thought, since my
return, if for no other result than the undisguised pleasure
afforded to lone, forlorn white men I encountered in East
Africa, by my presence and society, my expedition would,
even so, not have been made in vain.

The Indian bullocks and their drivers interested me very
much. These expensive, handsome little animals had been
importeci to send to Victoria Nyanza, but during the wait
were employed on the railroad construction works. How-
ever, they were finally shipped as accessories to Capt.
Rodgers, and his troop of sepoy soldiers loaned b)- the
government to I. B. E. A. Co. in his expedition to W'itu.
A camel caravan had gone up countrj' a few weeks prior to
my appearance, and bad news came back to the effect that

I 12

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

the camels were coming to grief and dying. This portion
of Africa does not conduce to the use of camels for trans-
portation. Donkeys die off very speedily, and horses are
impossible ; therefore there remains no relief to the poor
Zanzibar porters, nor immunity for the natives from slavery
until a railroad is constructed.

POMRE CUPS.

Unfortunately, the recent rain had washed out the tem-
porary roadbed of the railroad and undermined the rails
so that they were not safe to drive the heavy engine ov'er ;
therefore the seven miles I had anticipated to have conveyed
my carax'an b\' rail was now impossible.

During the evening and night some straggling porters
came into camp, reducing the list of deserters materially.
My friend kindly gave me a lesson in roll calling, as well as
how to quickly inspect loads, count the rifles, and set my
tents. For the last time everything was overhauled.

When it is recognized that a caravan going into the in-

THE FIRST MARCH.

113

terior or up country in Africa is like a migratory community,
and must be provisioned and armed for the entire expedition,
take sufficient goods for barter to insure immunity from
hunger, and be enabled to give tribute to purchase from the
natives a right of way i^hongo^ , if required, as well as a
variety of presents for the natives one wishes to negotiate
with, and that it is essential to provide for necessities and
all likely emergencies during periods of health as well as
during sickness, that precaution must be taken against
tropical heat as well as against the bitter cold trade winds,
which at certain seasons blow up during the afternoon or
night, and for dry as well as for rainy weather, living as
one must in the open, tlie incongruity and variety ot an
African outfit is beyond conception of any one who has not
had experience therewith. Not onl)- must one prepare
against the elements,
but against ferocious
wild beasts, as well as
the invidious attacks
of creatures no larger
than white ants, which
are perfect vandals in
the wa)' they carry out
their work of rapid
destruction upon all wooden objects. Precious or valuable
articles must be kept, to insure them against damage, in
air-tieht and water-tight tin cases : the coils of metal wire

BUFFALO BULL.

114

SL'I.TAX TO SULTAN.

{senenge) are sacked in round packages ; the beads (^skanga )
are carried in boxes or canvas sacking ; the cloth in long
bales, covered with makota (cocoanut) matting; the rice in
strange, trumpet-shaped bags; the provisions in boxes; pots,
pans, and kettles upon poles exposed to view, and a certain

-^^

//l/^o/'

MASAI FLAG OF 1 RUCE.

number of iron pots, in which the porters and men cook ;
calabashes with water, tents and poles, chairs, folding tables,
large waterproof canvases enveloping cork ground beds ; large
piecec of waterproof cloth, the ground cloth with which the
tent is carpeted to keep the damp from rising from the earth ;
boxes of candles, soap, cartridges in boxes, matches. Hints
and steel, cotton waste to clean the guns, cocoanut oil, kero-

TIIK FIRST MARCH.

I I

sene in large square tin cans, when emptied used for water
cans, or bartered to the natives; coffee in sacks; lanterns,
by night swung on poles, carried by a porter, with a light
load; water bottles; photographic apparatus and instruments
for observation; tools; medicine cases; largfe tin buckets lor
water; bath tub, hammock for the sick, and all manner of
trilling accessories, and luxuries, and endless et ceteras. Then
come the men's mats, upon which they sleep ; the cloth, of
which they make their little tents, used as a turban (vituniha^
during the day to ease up their loads from their heads, and
kept by them to the last as a means of barter with natives.

In the selection of the
beads, the quality and size
of the metal wires, the
cloths, the silks and velvets,
gold-lace, and other pres-
ents which one takes for
chiefs, of all kinds and
sizes, the most valued
among which will be British
soldier coats, flaunting red,
with gaud\- gold-lace and
plenty ot brass buttons :
European hats, and red
umbrellas, tooting horns,
music boxes, clocks, matches, razors, knives, bells, rings,
bracelets, metal belts and jewelled weapons, needles, sewing

KHARTOUM NKGRO.

Il6 SULTAN TO SUITAN.

thread, pins, fishhooks, tops, kites, dolls, picture books, clay
pipes, tobacco, snuff, tea, sugar, silverware, china cups, knives,
spoons and forks, paint boxes, mirrors, sewing machines, tools.

Needless to say, great thought and attention are required,
and one must profit b)' the experience of other travellers
in order to avoitl falling into mistakes which it is impossible
to rectify after once leaving the coast, if indeed one can
rectify them at the coast. All of these loads must be
weighed, numbered, and allotted to the men and rear-
ranged, or as they sa\- in Africa, tangeiiezcd, from time to
time, as one journeys on, according as articles are taken
from different packages, in order to fairly distribute the
work upon all of the porters throughout the caravan ; then,
too, as illness alwaj-s ensues after one has been out on
safari a few days, the sick must be relieved of the
burden of full loads, if not, indeed, relieved altogether, and
they themselves carried in hammocks. This unloading,
tangenezing , as it were, as one j^roceeds, is both advanta-
geous and necessary. Almost daily can be gauged the
depletion of supplies, and extravagance checked ; it also
affords an opportunity to detect pilfering, and discover if
loads have been discarded, sometimes in time to recover
them.

One possessed ot a spark of humanity will not leave a sick
man by the roadside to die of starvation, and even become,
alive or dead, food for the vultures and prowling animals ;
hence, if the afflicted is too ill to walk, two of his com-

THE FIRSl' MARCH.

117

\VH1ULL\(.; DLRVI.ilIKS slilvN AT ZANZIBAR.

panions are obliged to be relieved of their loads and carry
him ; in order to do this the contents of these loads must
be distributed to the other porters. They have no objection^
to carrying a inzimga (white man), but they very nuich
object to carrying a {&\\o\\ pagazi (porter).

However, I found it an admirable method to quietly
say to an objecting porter, " Look here, my man, to-mor-
row )ou ma)- be ill, and if )ou object to carrj- )our
companion to-day, who will then be willing to carry you
when you are stricken ? We will leave you to your fate,
the prey to the wild beasts ! Come, come, fall in line ! "

ii8

SULTAN TO Sri.TAN.

This usually ended all grumbling ; for the dissenter,
seeing there was no chance to shirk, would assume his part
of the burden. The end was accomplished ; he did his
duty, although too often with ill grace.

The method of dealing out rice,
which is carried for poslio or rations
during the first eight or nine days
from the coast in bulk of sixty
pounds in a kaiida, — a long and
narrow matting bag, broadest at the
bottom, — is somewhat peculiar. A
brass measure, like a straight tumbler,
called a kababa, which should legiti-
mately bear upon it the offiical im-
print of the Sultan, resembling the
figure "8," holding about a pint of
rice, is the accepted dole ; but in
lieu of this, the headman of head-
men will deal out the portions by
putting his two hands together and
allowing the orain to rest within

NATIVE SOLDIER.

SO that none of it falls over when he shakes his hands.
The amount eiven to the men varies accordino- to the rank
of eacii man.

Porters, carrying the heavy loads, are paid the least and
receive the smallest poslio; the headmen, who are paid the
largest price ami never carry even their own mats, receive

THE KIRST MARCH.

119

four to five times the amount of food or allowance, and their
wages are in proportion larger. However, I was obliged to
submit to the usage of the country, believing it must have
virtue from its time-honored existence.

The small (quantity of food that each
man eats daily would seem hardly to
suffice for the maintenance of his strencrth,
but the\- as a whole are comparatively
hearty and, as a rule, thrive when on
safari, and if treated fairl)-, seldom are
sullen or murmur, unless it is very cold ;
then they begin to ask for meat, and for
more cloth, as they huddle, utterly misera-
ble, with teeth chatterinof, round their fires
in the open, sometimes the rain pelting
furiously down upon their half-naked
bodies.

During a noonday halt or a tew min-
utes' rest to catch breath after a stiffish
climb, it is verv amusing to see the
porters making cigarettes, or extract from
their turbans, where they were placed for safety and con-
venience, little pipes, draw a few whiffs, then pass them on
to their less fortunate comrades, and in five or ten minutes
be ready and content to start again, apparentl)' thoroughly
refreshed, if not docile and obedient to the demand of their
bwana (master).

XAIIVE SOLDIER.

I20

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

They carry water in calabashes until they get in the
mooted vicinity of pools or streams, when they hastily empty
them, averse to carry the additional weight. This frequently
causes great distress among the men, for
water too often fails, or is unfit to
drink in welhknown localities ; then their
rashness becomes obvious, too late to
remed)-, yet they never profit by expe-
rience.

W'hen a ilifficult journey is being
maele and the men are fagged, there is
always one man near the head of the
carax'an who starts up in a loud
\'oice a song of encouragement ; the
drift of it is that tliej' are paid for
work and that they must be faithful,
and when the j(iiu'ne)' is finished or
the day is done, they may rest and
sing, dance and eat, and all this for
their bra\'e Invaiia. Then the)' have
songs of emulation, which are directed, with caressing policy,
toward their leader, the Invajia ; the rhythm is very (juaint,
and the terminal chorus resembles a hunter's call, with a
succession of long-drawn sounds. As far as I could ascertain,
these sounds did not represent articulations, but were a spe-
cies of rally whoops and yells, as well as a tone pledge of ac-
quiescence in a crude way very much esembling Tyrolean trills.

NATI\E SIILDIER.

THE FIRST MARCH.

121

Swahali porters, collectiv^ely called Zanzibaris, natives of
almost every different African province, reveal their nativity
by the manner in which they naturally carry their loads.
A Zanzibari proper never carries a load on his sliouldcrs,
and his head seems
provided with a thick-
ness of scalp for his
accustomed duty ; just
as the Wa-mawenzi
ha\"e a muscular de-
velopment on their
shoulders in cons e-
quence of their habit
of carrying loads upon
them ; and if on safari
there is to be taken
a palanquin or a
hammock, which re-
quires the services of \^
two or more bearers, nati\ k wan r-i akkii ks.

the leader should alwa)-s aim to provide himself with
Wa-mawenzi pagazi, otherwise he will be made very uncom-
fortable, thrust upon the heads of the others, swinging
mid-air in a craz)' way. The Zanzibaris carry their loads
sometimes balanced with their hands extendecl overhead, on
either side of the load, but with their bodies and heads
perfectly erect, never looking at the immediate footpath,

122

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

avoiding with deftness the overhanging branches or
side projections. They put one foot cHrectly in line of
the other, without turning the toes out, making a very f
narrow tread. f

This is a most difficult wa)' for a European to walk,
antl I experienced great awkwardness in trying to stride ,
from side to side of paths that we followed, or across
the tiny water beds of mountain rills, because it was

impossible to walk
without stumbline,
or stepping on m)- |
own heels, in a
four-inch track.

The)' univer-
sall)' carry long
stout staffs, cut by
the way in an ad-
jacent bosk, which
they thrust ahead
of them, and bear
upon when ascend-

-MAi.r, c;\ME.

mountains, and

employ to sound streams when fording, in order to

find and avoid water-holes. The staff at night serves

as one of the props on which they stretch their
tent cloth.

MASAI
SPEAR.

THE FIRST MARCH.

123

The Wa-mawenzi thrust a pole through the cords of their
packs which they stick in the eartli and prop against a tree to
support them, and never place the loads on the ground when
on the march.

Frequently,
when the roads
are \-ery muddy
and slippery, the
mud, being of a
sticky clay con-
sistency, adheres
to their feet, and
accumulates all
the particles of
erass and stones
until they are
obliged to stop
and scrape it off,
the weieht be-

TRAliF. CLOTHS.

comes such a great hindrance to their progress. The tenacity
of this mud and its depth at times, in consequence of the pre-
vailing rains, caused me great personal difficulty. I was obliged
to have one of my porters, with his bayonet, excavate places
for me to thrust my toes, in order that I could walk up-
right instead of going on all fours or falling backward.

The refracted heat and glare, which most travellers com-
plain bitterly of, reflected from the red and white sand, I was

124

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

fortunate in being spared, as the season was auspicious and
vegetation very abundant. But even the blaze of the sun, as
it bursts suddenly from behind lugubrious clouds, will affect
the eyes of one unused to it, and bring about serious affec-
tion of the vision. By using colored glasses with side pro-

POMI'.E CUPS.

tectors, this is easily mitigated. When approaching the na-
tives I was always obliged to remove my goggles ; for they
were terrified whenever the)- caught sight of them, and would
run away, screaming in fright.

This calls to mind an incident which occurred on the
plains of Taro. After having thoughtlessly kept my goggles
on, and the natives had experienced the usual scare, I
endeavored to coax them back, trying to amuse them by

THE FIRST MARCH.

showing them some pictures, which they chci not comprehend,
and finally started my music box to play. This delighted them
so that they forgot all about the spectacles, which I had in
the mean while cautiously removed.

When a large throng of natives was about me, feeling
thirsty, I ate an orange, and the idea popped into my head
that one of the pranks of my childhood might amuse them. So
I cut a quarter section of the orange skin into points in imita-
tion of teeth, and pressed them
over my own teeth, operating
them by opening and closing
my mouth. This delighted the
natives beyond expression, and
an old chief besought me for
the coveted sham ; in his de-
light at procuring the trophy,
he started off in great haste,
soon returning with the blood
streaming from his mouth, and]
a great splendid tooth, which |
he had just extracted, as a
eift to me. He sat down
when I had inspected it, and
commenced to puncture a hole
through it in order that I might string it round my neck
as a charm against hunger.

He indicated this to me by saying, " Chukula," which

GOURD WATER BOTTLE.

126

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

means " food," and then touching his stomach with his hands,
took the tooth and pressed it over his stomach, saying,
" A-i-e, la-la," which meant that hunger would sleep.

Their gestures are so very significant that any one who
pays heed must understand what they desire to indicate,
without being able to comprehend a single word of their
language. I have thought, since returning from Africa, that
a clever and thoroughly good-natured pantomimist might be
able to reach the intelligence of the natives more effectually
than any other person.

A native desiring to tell me he had plenty of bananas on his
plantation, which he; was cai^rr 1 should visit, took a bunch of

bananas, put it down
in front of me, pulled
several of the bana-
nas off, surrounded
me by placing one
after the other in a
circular row, then
lifted up the bunch
and placed it succes-
sively beside each
one of the distributed
bananas. The whole

BRASS t HAIN' NF.CKI,ACE.

thing revealed so clearly what he meant, that when m\- inter-
preter interrogated him on the point, it corroborated my idea ;
for it transpired that he owned a plantation which he averred

THE FIRST MARCH. 12/

was fruitful enough to provide the whole caravan ; and as iny
porters wanted the fruit and he wanted to barter it for their
beads and cloth, a bargain was at once struck.

Many of their antics in their sign language are not only
grotesque, but childish. I was remarking to an elder in a cer-
tain tribe upon the fact that I saw very few deformed people,
and none lame, when a native doubled himself up in a sitting
posture and commenced to hop before me. When he con-
cluded this little performance and again stood erect, he
pointed with his tongue to his village, and made me under-
stand that in it there was a man in this condition, and he
wanted some da^ucx, or medicine, for him. This was verified
when I accompanied him to his village. He took me forth-
with to a hut where a lame man sat upon a long wooden
framework which he used for his bed as well as his work-
table, — a cripple from some accident which had occurred in
his early youth ; however, he was so useful to his people,
even as a boy, — he is a clever craftsman now, — that he
had not died young ; like true Spartans, these natives adhere
to the idea that if nature has frowned upon a human being,
it is their duty to see that he does not eke out a life of
misery or dependence.

Whatever they may resort to I am not able to state, but
it is an exceptional thing to find adult cripples in Africa.
This idea may also explain the fact that there are no de-
crepit old people ; but as they do not allow even outside
tribes to know of the deaths that occur among them, I think

128 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

it would be very difficult to trace the time and method used
to put . away those who promise to be either imbecile or
helpless. If a woman gives birth to twins, one of these
sio-nificantly dies ; if an animal has twins, not only are the
twins slaughtered, but the mother is slaughtered also, for her
prolificness is regarded as an omen of bad luck. There
is something mnre subtle than I could discover actuating

them in these seem-
ingly senseless
deeds, based un-
Idoubtedly upon some
long-abiding supersti-
Ition. I was informed
o f seve ral cases
of women being
EAR ORNAMENT MADE OF WART HOG TUSKS. killed who had been

considered traitors by taking lovers in a tribe hostile to their
own, to whom they confessed having revealed the secrets of
their own people. Without loss of time they were summarily
killed, in accordance with an arbitrary law among themselves.
A Masai woman of considerable importance, trusted as a pur-
veyor between her own and hostile tribes, was discovered false
to her tribal allegiance, having formed a liason with an enemy.
She was thrown, so goes the story, with her abundant adorn-
ments of metal coils incasing her legs, arms, and neck, into a
smelting furnace to be consumed by fierce flames. Her forty or
fifty pounds of metal ornaments in due time melted into a mass.

THE FIRST MARCH. " I 29

Little chunks of iron alloyed with copper and brass, dis-
playing tiny glints of colored glass, all fused together and
reputed to be of the unfortunate woman's worldly splendors,
are given to or forced upon an enemy as a token of bad
luck. .Surreptitiously, at my solicitation, my headman procured
for me a bit of the stigmatized metal. Men who are traitors
are punished with more rigor, and with an idea of spectacu-
ular example. The man is tied to a tree, and all the men
in the tribe will come and stick him with their knives, at first
just enough to make the blood flow; then these stabs are
given with increasing violence until the knives enter deep into
the flesh, and the culprit quivers from head to foot in supreme
agony ; never, however, uttering a sound, but stoically endur-
ing the punishment as his life ebbs out. His body is then
allowed to remain the prey of rapacious vultures and hyenas,
until there is nothing but a few bones and the ropes left.

The name of the traitor is never mentioned, and should
one of his children — it he have an)' — bear his tabooed name,
the child receives a new name ; and in speaking of this
man, his widow or family say, " He who has gone to the
black world," evidencing that they have an idea of purgatory or
of the more enlightened, dogmatic, fiery regions.

I30

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER VI.

FIRST ALAR\L EXCITABLE PORTERS.

IMAMA! simama! Bebe! (Stop! stop!
lady!) suddenly yelled my askari,
" Masai ! Masai ! " This was cer-
tainly a trying moment. The por-
ters at once launched forth into a
voluble, rapid gibberish, out of
I which I could barely distinguish
here and there a word I could
comprehend.

But " Masai ! Masai ! " predomi-
nated, and every man was pointing to certain vague objects
far away in advance on our line of march, and manifested
unfeigned alarm and fear. The result was wild confusion,
which I realized would lead on to a decided panic, if not
promptly checked.

My field glasses revealed the cause to be the presence of
several almost nude natives armed only with bows and arrows,
and carrying a few calabashes and water-skins, who were dodg-
ing through the long grass and thick undergrowth in a coy,
timid fashion, far from indicating hostility or aggressiveness.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITAliI.E PORTERS.

I U

Quickly halting iny men, I proceeded to meet these
natives, accompanied by an interpreter and two askari, who
carried our Masai flag of truce and my little American mas-
cot. Seeing us advance without fear or threats, they squatted
abjectly upon the ground, their long bows and arrows planted
straight up and down in front of them, their startled coun-
tenances, with
ej-es opened wide
in amazement,
speechless to see
such a strano;
apparition of a
mziinga (whit(>
man) as I pre-
sented.

To remove!
their lurking ap-
prehension as to
our actual inten-
tion, I gave them several name rings, and Josete imparted
to them the elaborated statement that Bebe was a white
queen of limitless power coming to make triends with them
and to bring them many beautiful tokens of peace. To all
of which they quizzically ejaculated, " A-i-e ! a-i-e ! " more
amazed than before. Finally among themselves they talked
in a subdued tone, casting inquisitive glances at me, evi-
dently stud)ing my attire, and christened me " Bebe Bwana"

WAIT-A-BIT TREE.

132

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

(woman master); a sobriquet that was spon-
taneously and universally bestowed upon me as
a satisfactory and all-sufficient appellation b)- all
natives whom I met in East Africa ; and this
too with a certain directness and aptness that
surprised me, not only in this title, but respect-
ing the full meaning of all of their nouns.
Sometimes they were no other than adjecti\'al
substantives in their cogent expressiveness of a
like thing and kind combined.

These natives were stray sellers of cala-
bashes, and gee, a substitute for butter made
from goat's milk, strong smelling and rancid
llavored, )'et prized highly by natives and Zanzi-
baris and even white men on safari. They had
meandered three days away from their settle-
ment of Teita, in hopes to dispose of their
produce and wares. They maintain themselves
by their bows and arrows and the wild fruits
found on all sides, carrying a small supply of
maize, sugar-cane, and bananas, and sleeping
under the shadow of the trees. As fine, fearless
children of either forest, plain, or mountain, these
specimens could not be regarded as types.
After the scare had subsided and we had resumed our
march, meditating over the alarm exhibited by my valiant
little army on such slight provocation, I could not but expe-

BRASS BEADS.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITABLE PORTERS.

'OJ

LUNCHEON IN THE OPEN.

rience a qualm of insecurity, and for tlie first time fully real-
ized the terror the African bogy-man — the Masai — struck
to the Zanzibaris heart. It was too late to repent, there
was no chance for me to abandon the venture I had so
confidently embarked upon, if I had so desired ; therefore
with a more serious sense of personal responsibility, and
an awakening to the necessary requirement of self-govern-

134

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

ment, in order to hold indubitable sway over my men, I
bent my every thought, with more absolute determination to
accomplish my aims at every sacrifice apart from relinquish-
ment of personal dignity, and by the enforcement of disci-
pline and exaction of duty and obedience by any means
short of inhumanity.

Bravery and fearlessness have nothing akin to reckless-
ness or heedless disregard of consequences. This statement
is made in the full consciousness of the fact that during
moments of sudden emergency, action must be taken with-
out tardy deliberation at the
time. However, previous train-
ing and consideration of possi-
ble peril, and general adapta-
tion of wa}'s and means, with
a cool, well-balanced head,
nerve, and tact, stand in the
gap as a bulwark of power and unfaltering wisdom.

My constant study was to know my porters, to learn
their personal characteristics, and to put each man at his
best. The tax upon my judgment was great, tor these
untutored fellows are creatures of ungovernable passion.
If one porter calls another " a goat," like a flash the
affronted man whips out his knife and makes a vicious lunge
at the gross insulter; unless authorized interference puts a
stop to these accessions of murderous passion, the result is
likely to be a tragedy. Nothing is so effectual as the

INLAID WOODEN FOWL.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITAllLE PORTERS.

135

time-honored stick, the kibosh. I have been much maligned,
and accused of ruthlessly Hogging the iiaik'es/ I do not
feel called upon to explain on this score, yet will state the
facts, so as to prevent misunderstanding in the minds of
truth seekers.

One day a porter in anger stabbed one of his comrades
through and through his body, imperilling his life. He was
floo-oed.

Another porter violently pitched upon and brutally hurled
to the ground the daughter of a chief, for no greater offence
than that she persistently offered some sweet corn for sale,
after he had or-
dered her to quit
the encampment,
which, by the
wa)', was occupy-
ing the grounds
of the native
market place.
This act came
very near em-
broiling- me with
the natives. The
man was flogged.

Another hot-headed porter, maddened out of his reason,
if he ever had any, wrested a rifle from a comrade's hands
and shot at the headman, who had enraged him by assigning

WOODEN POT.

n6 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

to him a load he objected to carry, missing' his victim b\' a
hair's breadth. He was flogged.

In glancing over my black list and counting the men who
were flogged during my entire safari, the actual nimiber

does not exceed, in fact does

not attain, the fingers of my

two hands.

Starting out on my expedi-
jtion, I fondly nursed the idea

that the porters could be gov-
iNLAiD \vooDE^f BOWL. emcd by kindness and moral

suasion, and that the discipline so necessary to their own
individual safety, as well as the safety of the expedition,
could be consistently maintained without resorting" to the
usual punishment with the stick. This cherished belief was
soon modified by actual experience. I found that discipline
could only be maintained by chastising serious oftenders in
the accepted way, — a method familiar to them and approved
by the sentiments of their comrades. Coaxing arguments
and persuasive talks were disregarded and sneeringly laughed
at, probably the more so because /, flicii- leader, was a woman.
As time wore on, they found that I was always at the head
of my caravan, and if there was any danger to be encountered
that they could rely upon me ; soon they were imbued with
confidence and respect. They found, also, that wilful offenders
would suffer just punishment, that orders must be obeyed
without demur, that no idle threats were used, that promises

FIRST ALARM. FACITABI.E PORTERS.

|J7

were cautiously given but religiously kept, that yes meant
yes, and no, no ; that if any of them fell ill, I personally
attended them daily, setting their broken bones, dressing
their wounds or administering needed medicines, and having
them carried when disabled.

The result was that I soon obtained complete control over
every man. I do not think I could have succeeded in this
if I had not most unwillingly changed my lifelong ideas
about whipping. An appeal to
physical force has always seemed
to me to be brutal, and degrad-
ing alike to victim and adminis-
trator. However, circumstances
alter cases. A caravan on safari
as a travelling community must
have order and laws of its own
for the safety of the whole ; it
must, in itself, form a body
politic to enforce these laws
and assist in the preservation of
order and discipline.

The only thing when a man
has committed an offence, and
his punishment has been agreed ixig-shaitd beads.

upon by having his fault submitted to a jury of five or six
of his comrades, is to have the headman execute it promptly,
and if the culprit shows signs of atonement, never to permit

138

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

him to be nagged or twitted ; instead, to accept his good
behavior for all it would seem to indicate. Other methods
of punishment are particularl)- cruel, and disable the men.

There is, without exaggeration, more real good than in-
tended evil in the Zanzibaris, if they are properly and judi-
ciously treated. They have patience, obedi-
ence, devotion, and above all, pride.

A circumstance revealing the pride ani-
mating them to excel each other and win
some meed of praise may be best illustrated
by the following story connected with one
of my porters, known as the "strong man"
in the caravan : —

Among the baggage was a long tin
uniform case, which, because of its weight,
was a double load ; I fully e.xpected to
have had it carried between two men, but
after a few marches this plan was found to
be exceeding!)- awkward, owing to the
steep, rugged country we traversed, so, with discontent,
the porters put down the load upon the ground after a
difficult day's march. My attention was drawn to them b_\- the
confusion that ensued. Getting at the true inwardness ot the
commotion, I called all the porters together, and stepped
before them to tr)' ni)- art in soothing their fretted tempers.
" Here is a box which is a double load ; I have heard a
great deal concerning the renown of a strong pagazi in this

DAWA BEADS.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITABLE I'ORTERS.

139

caravan. Now, where is that strong pagazi? A man who
earns double money and double poslio, because he does the
work of two men ? "

There was a de-
cided rustle, then a

jostling and parting >^ ^.^^ ' ^

at the back of the
throng of porters,
and forcing his way
through there came
forward a tall, stal-
wart fellow, with a
beaminor face, his
smiling open mouth jewelled sword give.n' sultan ^LA^'DAR.A.

revealing his glittering teeth. He stood out conspicuously
apart irom the others, and announced proudly, " Bebe, I
am that strong man." Then whirling himself like a spinning
top round on his heels to display his muscular superiority, he
stretched out both his arms, clinched his fists and forcibly
drew them tightly up to show off his pronoimced biceps,
saying, " Bebe, command me."

Indicating the box with my staff to him, he salaamed, and
grasped the handle of the great tin box, and with one single
swing lifted it clean and imfalteringl)' from the ground onto
his, I presume, thick head, balanced it there, and walked
oft triumphantly, sending a song of defiance and rally to the
other porters, who gave vent to their adulations by slapping

I40

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

their naked thighs, by nods, and a general hubbub such
as only a Zanzibari cara\'an can make.

This same porter had as tremendous a voice as he had
a body, and was always talking garrulously, and roaring out
in thunderous tones when we were on the march ; and as he
had naturally taken his post, as a man of entitled honor, in
close proximity to my ears, frequently I thought he would
drive me distracted. No sooner was one story finished than

this inexhaustible narrator com-
menced another, and no com-
rade dared interrupt or gainsay
him. One day, when my nerves
were particularly rasped by his
continual loud-voiced chatter, I
summoned him during the noon-
day halt to my pre.sence.

" Kara, you are a very fine
fellow ; you do your work well ;
you are always thoughtful of
Bebe ; you bring me beautiful
grasses and flowers ; no fire is
so bright as the one you build
for me ; nevertheless I cannot
have you screaming as you do
behind my ears, and if it con-
tinues I shall be obliged to order you to the rear."

He made me profuse, emphatic promises to correct his

KNOB KERRY STICKS.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITAHI.K PORTERS.

141

error, saying, as he again .struck his Ijreast with his sledge-
hammer fist, " Bebc Bwana, you .see I am so big in the
lungs, and my voice is as big as
I am strong."

To this 1 quite agreed, assur-
ing him, whereas, I did not wish
to diminish his strength, I did
care to silence his lusty voice.
That day things went on very
peacefully. There was not the
slightest occasion to complain
of my Samson, and, in good
truth, during the entire day he
took it upon himself to cry out
indignantly, " Kallela," to silence
his fellow-porters in the rear
when they, forgettid of my'
wishes, began to talk in a loud
tone of voice. At night 1 called
him up to me and complimented
him on his effort to be quiet,
telling; him how well he had
pleased me.

With a burst of enthusiasm
he exclaimed, " Ah, Bebe Bwana, I am so happ)' ! because I
have sweat prickles from my marrow all day tr)-ing to be quiet."

The quaintness of the remark and the knowledge of the

MV UUN.

KIR.ST GUN CASE
MADE BV NATIVES.

14-

SULT.W Ti 1 SILTAX.

severity with which the prickly heat attacks these men,
sufficed for me, and caused me to think him not inept in
simile.

This same man was a great gormand, and the prepara-
tion of the food in the little knot of men with whom he
messed was a work of art, and almost a work of devotion.
He tasted the pot, when the chicken stew with vegetables
of various kinds had reached the point when it required to
be seasoned, and if the flavor was not up to the mark, he
carefully added the deficient condiments. Before eating he
always bathed himself and put on his spotless, clean kanzu,
a long, white garment like a nightdress, fancifully stitched
or embroidered about the neck ; and if there was something
])articularly dainty, according to his idea, a choice portion of
it was brought with great flourish to my tent, and cere-

monioush' proffered to me. He was
always the first to establish his own
tent and get everything shipshape and
comfortable at the time of our encamp-
ment; and when his day's work was
done, he would change his attire, and
seemctl to "^"joy with sensuous delight
the comfort with which he had so deftly surrounded him-
self. Unfortunately, pot)r Kara, whilst trudging up the foot-
hills of Kilimanjaro, was sunstruck; he was not only inca-
pacitated from carrying a loatl, but was in a serious plight
♦or some days; yet he would not surrender his place of

III'.AIiMAX.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITABLE I'ORTERS.

143

honor, or give the load to one of his companions, but, with
great fortitude, struggled beneath it until I personally ob-
served his flagging condition, and was compelled to authori-
tatively interfere. I had him come to me, apart from the
others, and told him he must surrender his load, and possi-
bly be carried himself until we reached a proper resting

NAT1\"E KNIVES.

place, and his acute agony should yield to medication. He
protested with great vehemence, exclaiming, —

"What! 1, the strong man of every safari I have ever
undertaken, give up my chosen load to one of those goats?
Oh, no!"

■ Then I said, " Kara, my good fellow, I will tell you what
I will do. Your box is known as the heavy load. Come,
now, I will empty it, and you will only have the weight of
the box on your head — just seventeen pounds — and no man

144

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

in the caravan will know but what you are still carrying your
heavy weight."

This artifice delighted him, and he fairly howled in
barbaric glee when I dismissed him, to think he was going
to get the best of his comrades by this subterfuge, yet

maintain inviolable his
prestige. So it was
that Kara, the proud
porter, carried, with
comparative ease, dur-
ing the period of his
indisposition, for seven
da)-s, the empty box,
no one in the caravan,
not e\-cn mv headmen,
knowing that I had
extracted its contents,
and had, unsuspected,
KARA, siRON-G MAN. (.Hstribu ted the same

among other loads without perceptible increase ot weight.

As Kara recovered his strength, he voluntarily sought me
and suCTcrested that the lesfitimate contents of his box mis-dit
be replaced, saying he was feeling so well and strong and
full of life that if he did not have a heavy weight upon his
head as a sort of safety valve, he should fly from the top of
one of the mountains and be dashed to atoms, so he needed
the load to hold him down and exhaust his superlkious force.

FIRST ALARM. EXCITAIILE PoRTERS. I45

Inadvertently I was just in the act of putting my foot
upon an ants' nest, concealed from my sight by overgrowing
grass, when, like a whirlwind, something suddenly grasped
me about the waist, lifting me up from the ground, and
seemed to dart on the wings of the air, away be)ond on the
open plain, when I was as suddenly dropped, and then dis-
covered m)- captor to have been Kara, my strong man, as
he prostrated him-
self, his fac (■
pressed close on
the ground in the
dust, pleading pa- native haxana knife, unpolished.

thetically, "Btbc Bwana; siafiif siafu!" (ants, ants;) so it
was that this ever-watchful porter, seeing me unwittingly
about to step upon the vicious ants, himself knowing from
sad experience what a terror the)- are to man and beast,
had dropped his load and, unceremoniously seizing me, had
carried me beyond the danger. In narrating this and similar
incidents I must aver that these half-civilized porters,
although deficient in many advantages that modern education
brings, are far from being devoid of the highest chivalry.

Apropos of these ants, they attack human beings in
great droves, and have frequently been known to compel
every man in an encampment to turn out, in the middle of
the night, and seek refuge at some distance away from the
original camp ; it is no uncommon thing to hear the men
grumbling and growling at night, followed by the flapping of

146 SULTAN TO SUI.TAN.

their mats, when trying to sliake off these invasive insects. Their
bite is painful, and poisonous to some people. They have
periods of migration, when they make long journeys in vast
armies, devastating a tract of country by cropping a noticeable
swath where they have traversed. The other ants, which
build the strange red-sand structures, looking like broken
battlements on the top of a palace or bastion, are perhaps
more interesting to study. Then come the termites, or white
ants, which seem bent on destruction ; not only do they attack
splendid forest trees at the roots and work up, devouring as
they proceed the body of the trees, leaving nothing but the
outer bark, in perfect semblance of solidity, but which will
topple over and fall into fragments at the slightest push, they
will also attack the foundations of any wooden structure,
however massive ; frequently wooden bo.xes that are put upon
the ground for one night will be simply riddled by them,
leaving only a mere veneering of the wood itself, however
solid, which crumbles into dust when touched.

Travellers and inhabitants of Africa find these destructive
creatures a great pest, and the wooden mountings of man\-
fine instruments, to the sorrow of explorers, are totally
destroyed without warning. The native woman invariably
carries her infant slung upon her back in hides or cloth
while at work pounding corn or millet, or when tilling the
.soil, fearful of allowing the child to remain on the ground
lest it become a prey to the ants.

Mosquitoes and stinging flies Infest Africa In vast swarms

FIRST ALARM. EXCITABLE PORTERS.

147

during particular seasons, especially towards and on the coast.
One of the essential articles for comfort in personal outfit is
a large, sound mosquito net,
anil large squares of gauze
or netting to wear over the
sun hat, and enclose snugl)'
the head and neck; otherwise
the flies dart into the travel-
ler's eyes, which is even
more painful than their sting.
Then, too, the tlesh-bur-
rowing jiggers and grass ticks
cause much distress; the jig-
gers usually burrow under the
toe and finger nails, whereas
the ticks work head first into
the flesh, and breed therein
in a prodigious manner it not
dug out. Every one caught by the porters is cut in two. The
poor, faithful fox terriers which adopted me from Taveta until
the)- reached Moschi were simpl)- besieged with these pests,
and out of sheer mercy every day I would pick and dig
their tormentors out of their flesh. The dogs' ears and groins
were the favorite spots of attack. The poor little animals
would be maddened in their helplessness to free themselves.
I was told of se\-eral fine docs havincr been made blind, and
finally succumbing, p(;stered to death by ticks, and carelessly

WOODEN' POT.

148

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

neglected by those who were caring for them in their
masters' absence.

Old camping grounds are to be consistently avoided,
as they are more than likely to be infested with jiggers, ticks,
lice, antl a nameless host of other \'ermin.

POMP.E CURS AM) PAN PU'E.

A singular thing occurs respecting the animals ami color
of the sand ; the tones all seem to marry one with the other ;
and when you chance to see a nimiber of haj'tebeest, or deer,
against one of these ant structures, — for such they are, —
you cannot distinguish between the two until you see some
movement on the part of the animals ; and so it is with most
of the creeping things, especially the mantis, the " praying
mantis," which appear like the bark and twigs of trees, and
\\Vv moving leaves which the}' so illusively simulate ; even
the butterflies look like winged flowers, and will, by some
strange attraction, settle on llowers their own counterfeits in
color and varif^gated condition, and when they rise and take
wing, disturbed b\' some passing thing, th(i first impression

FIRST ALARM. EXCITAIJLE PORTERS.

149

to the vision is tliat a mysterious phantom breeze has blown
the petals of the flower off the parent stem. The variety
and gorgeousness of these butterflies are beyond description,
but the choicest species, according to collectors, are the white.

■IWIX MKAl, POTS.

mottled with brilliant crimson spots, bright blue, pale green,
yellow, and violet.

Pink locusts, clapping their wings and harshly chirping,
swarmed in millions over our heads like a floatine cloud all
through one morning.

Another noticeable thing in the physical aspect was the
prevalence of all shades of heliotrope, violet, and purple

ISO

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

in the flowers ; and whereas pink would prevail in England
or temperate zones, this tropical East African nature seemed
to be more fashionable, and dispense with the old-time beauties
for some new diversity in the floral world. Clematis is
very profuse, and a species of white, pink, and crimson
magnolia, with oreat waxen buds and enormous frasjrant
flowers, with laree, thick, smooth leaves ; rhododendrons are
gorgeous ; balsams, narcissus, buttercups, asters, and poppies
star the erass-lands, and milkweed ^alore and o^ladiolus, wild
heliotrope, geranium, and orchids of the rarest, but no roses,
not even a sweetbrier, to greet the eye. Every shady nook is
a superb fernery of every variety. Maidenhair fern trails and
twines to the top of high trees in a prodigal manner.

We constantly met myriads of land turtles of rather a
small variety, and the porters would never pass one without
taking their staves and turning it over on its back ; and many
of the shells that were brought to me for inspection bore upon
their carapace Arabic characters, showing that some previous
traveller or porter in a caravan had captured the little thing
and carved a device upon its back, whether as a message to

other caravans or merely
out of personal amusement
I am unable to say, for
the natural tracings ot the
mottles of the shell and
the characters were so

intermiuCTled that it was

FIRST AI.AKM. EXCITAIil.E I'OKTERS. I5I

impossible to separate one from the other. I picked up
from Teita throughout my entire journey, on the foothills
of Kilimanjaro and even so high up as Kimangelia, beauti-
ful pure white and delicate brown and buff helices, some
very small and others enormous.

Unwilling
to travel
among these
natives with-
out leavingr
some evidence of my
presence, I had taken
the precaution to have several
thousand rings, on which were
engraved m)' name, and to
every native with whom I
personally came in contact in
the course of time I presented
one of these souvenirs ; they were also most useful to
tie round a package of letters or send as an earnest,
affixed to a seal, to a mission station, or when I required
to send a messenger to a sultan whose country I desired
to pass through or had already traversed. These little
souvenirs became heralded from native to native, and tribe
to tribe, and I was alwaj's asked for a pctc Jint, which
meant a " name ring." Whilst fitting rings upon their
fingers I was enabled to observe how small as a rule

FRENCH-SHELDOX RINGS.

152

SULTAN TO SUI.TAX.

their hands were, and out of upwards of five hundred clay
impressions on paper I took of feet and hands of natives
of various tribes, it was exceptional to find a very large
hand or foot.

WA-NVIKA AND WA-DURUMA.

'5o

CHAPTER VII.

WA-NYIKA AND WA-DURUMA.

HE tract of plain skirting the
Shimba or Lion Mountains, where
meander vagrant W'a-Nyil^a and
Wa-Duruma, spread out before us
as we started exactly at five
o'cloclc at sun up, witli rain-laden
clouds overhead rapidly coalescing
into dense, ominous masses, was
certainly most uninviting and well
entitled to its name of the wilder-
E\'er)'\vhere the tropical vegetation seemed to offer
a bristling jsrotest to intrusion, — euphorbias, mimosa, acacia,
wait-a-bits, cacti, and nettles of endless variety ; the most
lovel)' foliage to my sorrow I too often found hispid b)- a
nap of infinitesimal needle-points ; the very grasses were
spiked and saw or blade edged, tearing, pricking, and gash-
ing alike the flesh and garb, causing no end of discomfort,
if not actual pain.

Sudden!)' a great cackling of poultry was heard, which
answered well as a sounded tocsin to announce the appear-

154

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

ance of a party of unseemly Wa-Nyika who were issuing
from the woodlands to engage in trade with the mzunga
caravan they had heard was coming. A pariah dog flew at
me, and to ward off his attack I lifted my Alpine stock, and

POMBE CUPS.

at the same time discharged a pistol over his head. The
dismayed natives were thrown into a wild state, and angrily
rushed forward, flourishinff their bows and arrows in a threaten-
ing manner, when my alert askari pointed his gun at them,
shouting, "Stop ! speak! salaam Bebe." When they discovered
they were in the presence of a white woman, in consternation
they kept ejaculating, '" Javibo ! Javibo ! Bcbe viztmga?"
(How do you do, lady white man ?) and dropped down upon
the ground in a squatting position, staring me quite out of
countenance, now and then chatted among themselves as
though marvelling what it meant. Soon they queried the
porters to know if there was a bivana mzunga (a white
man-leader) of the safari. When the negative response was
given, their amazement did not abate ; indeed, they were
thrown into a deeper quandary and exclaimed, " Aief Aie!

WA-NVIKA AM) \VA-1)LMU:MA.

155

Aie /" as they wagged their heads and riveted their eyes
with fixity upon me, forgetting their feathered, fhittering,
squawking merchandise, which, tethered to walking poles, had
been heedlessly pitched upon the ground when they had
rushed upon me. Then surged around me women and
children, with equal amazement ami more audacit)- than
evinced by the men. They curiously commented upon my
color, hair, hat, costume, shoes, gloves, crooked staff, and
pistols ; and in glee yclept, the latter, ni '(0/0 hundiiki
(baby guns). Language with all" these tribes has a full-
fraught meaning, making clear the thing they desire to com-
municate. Phrase harlequinade with its quips and pranks
and abstrusely in-
volved sense is re-
served for enligrht-
enecl supereducated
races ; barring- their
quaint poetic similes,

— and these too are
marvels of e.xpletives,

— the natives aptly
short cut word and
sense.

So these grovelling, intimidated, unclean creatures were
the men of the wilderness ! Their bodies tattooed indis-
criminately without significance, and smeared with umber-
colored clay and rancid grease, emitting an odor far from

M nni) BiiNPUKr.

(]iAi:v GUNS.)

'56

SULTAN TU SULTAN.

EOYPTIAX Ml'SICIAN.

agreeable to civilized nostrils. Their teeth filed and dis-
colored, hair bushy and rather animated.

The men, when not naked, wore a bit of hide about them,
or a filthy fragment of cloth ; whereas the married women
disported a miserable blue calico kilted skirt, reaching half-

WA-NVIKA AND WA-DURUMA. 1 57

way from their waist to their knees, and some indifferent beads
and rough wire necklets and bracelets.

Trade was sharp for a brief time, and the general hubbub
of the porters and angry protests of the natives squabbling
over the chickens became deafening ; the natives grew uproar-
ious when a burly porter would cut a chicken trom its tether
and put down, in exchange, a string of red beads called scm-
scm, and cry out " Buss." finished as a finale to the trans-
action, which was not satisfactory to the- crafty, avaricious
native. It always ended in the porter being compelled to
relinquish the poor, thin ku-kn (chicken), and commence
a new deal. At first these proceedings interested me ex-
ceedingly, but in the end I was obliged to take a firm stand
to escape being fleeced beyond reason by the extortion of my
long-sought ideal primitives, and found a magic in that
same word biiss that ended all dickering and disputes. Fives
seemed to be the span of enumeration, and they use as an'
abacus, sticks, and in trade place one down, cry out moja
(one), and follow it up with another and another, pili, latu,
21IIC, tano (two, three, four, five) ; gather them up and go over
the same again, if the trade exceeds five. And when they
want to enumerate one half, a stick is broken in two ; then
they are thrown into a dilemma by possessing two half-sticks
instead of one whole one. One hand doubled up stands
also for five, two hands for ten, when sticks are not con-
venient.

If two bunches of bananas or other produce are offered

158

SULTAN TO SUL'IAN.

WOMEN' OF THE HAREM.

for barter at the same price, the simple native will not sell
both together, but one at a time. Exacting the fee agreed
upon, he hands over the article and closes the sale by saying
buss, which the purchaser repeats, then goes through the
same detailed performance again. Should a dispute arise, as

WA-NVIKA AND WA-DUKUMA. 1 59

it generally does, between customer and trader, the latter will
dog the former and by degrees accept the proffered stipend,'
after which a host of his tribe, finding the market price
broken, will solicit barter on the same diminished terms. Yet
the tenacity with which they hold fast to their first price,
until they must own defeat or conform to a lesser ofter, is
admirable. Leaders of expeditions narrate, with striking
unanimity, instances where their barter and the native's prod-
ucts have been placed in full view on the camp grounds for
mutual consideration, and the natives could not be induced
for days and days to yield, until time and patience failed, and
an order was given by the leader to gather up the barter,
and even then often the natives would permit the mzunga
to depart without budging from their origuial demands. Ex-
tortion seems a latent trait with all African tribes ; this
properly directed in connection with their trading propensities
may in good time result in converting them to thrifty com-
mercial peoples, and in uplifting them bejond dependence
upon philanthropic indulgence and helpless subserviency.

Wa-Duruma kept sneaking out from their thorn-hedged
seclusions all day as we proceeded on our march, and pre-
sented a strange appearance, some few with their wool
bleached yellow with unslacked lime, which is found here-
abouts, and bushed out like Somali men, into which were
thrust porcupine quills and short lengths of reeds and fish-
bones.

Their ear ornaments consisted mainly of tiger and other

i6o

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

animals' teeth, and striped quills of vulture's feathers with a
tiny tuft of feather at the end. A few slender strings of blue

beads, a groatskin ank-
let, a meagre strip of
clay-stained, coarse
cotton cloth tied over
their shoulders hanging
scarcely to their hips,
constituted their dress.
Hardship and thriftless-
ness, if not jsoverty,
seemed written on
their lineaments. They
suffer so from famine
that they gladly sell
themselves into bond-
age. This brings me
to the statement that

KGVPIIAN COrRIERS.

many Wa-shenzie, — which is an African equivalent for back-
woodsmen, — when once enslaved and taken to the coast, are
unwilling to be liberated, and have no desire to return to
their former haunts or lives. A master must provide food
and shelter for his slaves when they are not hired out. Then
the slaves are obliged to give half, if not all, of their earn-
ings to their master. A peculiar African institution is that of
slaves owning slaves, and in my caravan there were men, not
in my employ, but the slaves of some of m\- porters, who

\VA-N\IKA AMI W A-HURLMA.

i6i

were themselves slaves, and were taken on safari to relieve
their slave masters of their packs, and to do odd jobs for the
headmen and others, remunerated by a mere stipend given
to their owners, or remnants of food that would otherwise be
thrown away. They seemed merry and contented to lead the
nomadic life of a safari in companionship of the regular porters.
When not living in the open, they huddle with their
families and their goats in dome-shaped huts no better than
pig-pens, ver\' low, made of branches and sticks plastered over

w 1

a n ti

dung, entered by
a tiny aperture on
hands and knees;
the interior filth)-
and stifling with
the dense smoke
from an e \' e r -
smouldering firt/,
without a vent tor
its escape or for
ventilation. They
practise polygamy
when they can ;
sell their female
children and wives

NATIVE GOSSIPS.

to the Masai or Arab traders ; are a wretchetl, ill-favored
people, debased even in the eyes of other African natives,

1 62 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

living not so far from the coast as to deter them from going
tliither, yet in their indolence preferring to skulk about, get-
ting a precarious livelihood as they may. Their worship is
fetich. As a whole, they have nothing to recommend them.
They are stunted in growth, imhealthy in appearance, victims
to skin affections, and look thoroughly degenerated and are
of low-grade mentality.

My feet began to blister, and the men showed evidences
of lameness from the same cause. To overcome the pre-
vailing- distress I issued an order to give to each man a cer-
ts <^

tain allowance of carbolized grease to apply daily to his
feet. This would naturally make ruinous inroads upon my
stock of luiguents, and it was necessary at the outset to think
from what source to replenish. All goat and sheep and
beef fat from thenceforth was understood to belong to me,
no matter from where or by whom procured, and my bounti-
ful viafuta (grease) supply was the unfailing comfort of
every one in ni)' caravan to the finish of my safari.

We passed several pairs of comparatively good sandals,
discarded or lost bj' others who had travelled the same way.
I fully e.xpected to see my porters make a grab for them.
To my surprise, not one man even touched them. It appears
that some porters have a foot disease which is dreaded so
intensely, in consequence of its infectious nature, that they
one and all avoid any sandals not their own. When a
goat, sheep, cow, or game is slaughtered, the porters beg for
pieces of the raw hides, out of which they roughly cut soles

WA-KVIKA AM) WA-UUKL'.MA.

10:

-,>>".»' --^-.^i

LOADS FOR FOUR PORTERS.

which the)' strap to their feet with a leather thong, and wear
occasionalh" when traversing stony roads, and swing from
their gun-stocks when not in use.

When we camped lor the night we were obhged to form
a hedge ot thorn-bushes and circle the encampment with
huge bonfires to keep the wild beasts from attacking us. It
was terrifying to hear the continuous roar of lions resound-
ing on all sides, and the scurrying feet of panting jackals,
and to see the glare of hyenas' e)-es in the darkness of the
umbrageous surroundings. A sense of abiect helplessness
momentaril)' possessed me, \anquished b}- a courage that had
onl\- been dormant.

1 64

SULTAN TO SL'LTAN.

Orders were issued to have the camp doubly guarded and
the men well armed and allotted extra ammunition. My gun
and pistols were my close companions during a sleepless
night. I felt I should have at least thirty-one chances before
reloading if attacked. The night was particularly black and
the growling, rumbling thunder was in unison with the mun-
dane horrors. Day dispersed the impending storm-clouds, as
well as silenced the nocturnal voices. The experience was
beneficial, insomuch as the happy, safe denouement dissipated
all future cause for a similar scare during the entire safari.
Unfortunately I had no Wa-shenzie hunters, and the majority
of my men knew nothing about the use of firearms except

GRASS MAT FOR I'dRTKR S BED.

what hail been drilled into them since enlisting for my ex-
pedition, and were clumsy at best. Nothing contributed
more to my personal comfort than the numbers of lamps
scattered about, four always outside of my tent, and the
huge fires my askari (sentinels) kept up nightly.

\VA-N'VIKA AND WA-DURUMA.

>65

Daily, hour!)', I may aver the uniqueness of my position
grew upon me ; in truth, the farther away from toucli with the
coast we journeyed the more my personal responsibility and
cares and anxieties, for nameless reasons, increased. A
chronic insomnia gained upon me at such a pace I scarcely
ever slept over two hours out of twenty-four ; this, too, with-
out a sequel of ill effects upon my health, although every
nerve was strained to its higfhest tension. Walkine conduced
to my general well-being, and I am constrained to admit
proved invaluable, with other rational hygienic observances, in
giving me an entire immunity from fever. I never drank
water that had not been first boiled and filtered, refrained
from all stimulants excepting coffee, indulged daily in hot-
water baths, cautiously avoided the sun's ra\s upon my head
and spine, put on an additional garment when hottest, if
not on the move ; changed wet
clothing as soon as convenient. A

small bathing tent proved of the

greatest use and comfort ; it was

always set just outside of the back

flap of my tent, in close proximity,

so I could step from one to the

other with ease and privacy. Not

least in sanitary consideration was my Palanquin, in which I

slept, elevated at least two and a half feet from the ground,

above the strata of miasmatic mists. One of my black

women had a natural gift ot massage ; and whenever we

TOP OF SANDAL.

1 66

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

POMBE CUP.

paused for a noonday's rest, I made a habit of standing or
moving- about to avoid stiffness ; and Suzani always came,
despite lier own fatigues, and if tlie seclusion of tlie trees
or bushes was opportune, otherwise she called one of the

other women, who would plank her-
self back towards me in front of me,
and spread out her body-cloth to
screen me ; then Suzani rubbed me
as a jockey might have rubbed a favorite horse between
races. .Abdullah, my civilian cook, likewise proved an excel-
lent accessory to my migrating establishment. He was also a
capital interpreter, not only of words, but alack ! of my goods
and chattels. Many and many a chicken was carried off by
the hyenas that by natural assimilation was translated
into his well-conditioned .sell.

For general convenience I was provided with a huge
waterproof, padlocked dobe, or wash-bag, into which was
stuffed, protected and separated in
lesser bags, immediately necessary
articles, for example, a change of
costume, extra
shoes, toilet '^♦itW
articles, and a
small suppl>- of wooden pipe.

soap, matches, candles, fhnt and steel, coffee, biscuits, as
well as a small quantity of barter articles, and close at hand,
as another pack, a cork ground bed. Through this precaution,

WA-NVIKA AND WA-DURUMA.

167

an emergency retarding the bearers of my tent or special
loads never left me in the lurch for ordinary comforts and
essentials.

Every night or morning my women washed every travel-
soiled article, snatching the opportunity to dry them as they
could on the bushes or guys of my tent. When a dress or
other articles of wearing apparel became useless through
shrinkage or damage, they were carefully washed and placed
in a load of utility oddments to await a time when they were
worth their weight in gold for bandages, or to repair other
garments. Every article of my clothing was light, durable,
and as dainty as possible ; in fact, everything had been done
to minimize weight, in order to maximize quantity, in every
department of my personal effects and caravan supplies.
There were men scattered throughout the caravan who could
turn a hand at almost every
trade, or do a bit of jobbery,
and even barbers and/
" leeches " were to be found
when wanted ; and I had
taken a large supply of tools
and articles to meet almost wdoden ear strktcher.

every conceivable demand, — rope, canvas, nails, sail needles,
and great hanks of linen thread, as well as considerable
aluminium wire, solder, and irons.

The indigenous products of the country offered all that
could be desired in the way of fibrous plants and trees, and

i68

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

^-.-*-«¥^^:S^:^^^N _— ,^^^^^^^:f-

all the timber we could possibly require. A saponaceous shrub
from which the natives and Zanzibaris cut their tooth-sticks
was very prolific. One of the porter's attendants would be

sent to cut an
armful of this
wood and dis-
tribute it right
and left until
his supply
would be e.x-
hausted.

*Capt.Wm.
E. Stairs, care-
fully prepared
the subjoined
rules for camp
making for
me, supple-
menting them
with a score
of practical
counsel, i n -

CAPT. \VM. E. STAIRS, R. E.

valuable as the thoughtful outcome of his vast experience as
an officer of famous repute in African exploration, for which
I shall ever be grateful.

* Since the above went to press, the direful newt of Capt. W. E. Stairs's death near Zambezi has made all
solemnly grieve who knew the loyal, gallant, high-spirited soldier, the refined gentleman, and unselfish, lov-
able friend. His untimely death is an irreparable less. M. F, S.

WA-NVIKA AND WA-DURUMA.

169

Although I found it expedient to deviate from the letter
in some of the minuti.x, as he would have advised had he
been on the
field cognizant
of the situation.
His watchword,
" Discipline for
yourself and for
your subordi-
nates," was "'WI^K NATIVE WOOnEN- BASIN.

never forgotten, 'wmm In proof of his own acceptance of
this axiom was '"liiili' his trite expression, " Never question
a duty to be executed, do if quickly and leave it accomplished
behind \ou, or face it like a Briton a /'ouirancc.

HINTS FOR CAMPS, ETC., .« REGARDS DEFENCE.

I. Choose commanding position, one not near long grass or bush, if hostile
natives are about.

II. Beware of long, dry grass near camp ; natives may set fire to it and
burn you out. So clear a space round your goods of twenty to thirty yards
diameter.

III. Cover up your goods with tarpaulins, and place sentries, and as
a general order let this be the rallying point in the night or when danger
appears imminent.

IV. Place sentries (black) in groups of not less than three men each at
exit and ingress of camp, seventy yards from centre, and in great danger,
groups to right and left.

\'. In an attack on camp at night the first notice will be some arrows
falling in the camp. At once order silence, smother down the fires, as the

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

natives invariably fire at these in hopes of hitting men lying about them,
and rally near the centre pile of goods, and store of ammunition ; then
send out some of your most reliable men, but you yourself keep in camp
and direct matters.

VI. Never move a step in .Africa without two or three attendants with
rifles. Make this a maxim, for one day it may save your life ; and remember
there are maniacs in .Africa as well as elsewhere.

VII. Your column organize as follows: * first, your riflemen, without
loads ; then the carriers, then a small force under a chief in rear, and for this
pick your very best man.

VIII. Insist on your personal baggage, tents, and blankets being near your

person, and always
up in front, other-
wise you may arrive
in camp and your
things be hours be-

M. FRENCH-SHELDON'S MEDICINE BELT. "*^ hind.

IX. Number every bale, box, load, or bundle, and enter in a book against
the name of its carrier, and endeavor to give same loads to same men each day.

X. Fall the men in each morning, call the roll, and give out their loads in
person. This keeps up the discipline and prevents favoritism, as the best
black chief will give his friends light loads if left to himself.

XI. .Always try to keep near you quinine, carbonate of ammonia, and one
or two other standard medicines.

XII. Natives as a rule prefer day to night for attack ; a night march may
often put you out of a difficulty.

XIII. Go slowly at first, with frequent halts till the men and women get
strong ; allow as many women as possible to accompany you, as it shows
peaceful intentions.!

*This was impossible, as my loaded porters carried rifles.

t The few women in my caravan were a decided detriment, and caused me unceasing anxiety and chagrin.

WA-NVIKA AND WA-DUKUMA.

171

XIV. Do all the palavering yourself if jiossible. Swahali will carry you
far along your journey.

XV. You as a woman possess many points that no man would have in
dealing with Africans. You therefore should find an t-n/rl-e easy anywhere.

General principle of a camp in danger : —

-^??1|%'V^ii'^4ife,

^5,

m^^ ,
'^m.,%

* • -mi

+ -^

TV>'

: : Sentries.

A. Stores and rallying point.

B. Tent.

XXX. Men sleeping.

Never put your tent on the edge of the camp, and always have trusty
ones sleeping near you.

When no immediate danger is apprehended, the sentries should be
outside the camp, fifty yards, which is about bow-shot.

In conclusion, I feel sure that your invaluable tact and perception will
pull you through much that a man would fail at.

i;:

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

In danger or in safety, do not forget to have always in camp some
watchers, or sentries, with their rifles handy.

You can never be safe till this is done, and the men know what to do
in an emergency.

Yours sincerely,

. O- J^^^^ ,

To Mrs. French-Sheldon.

REVOLT AND DEATH.

^72>

CHAPTER YIII.

REVOLT AND DEATH.

LAINS of Taro stretched out in vast,
^sloping, sandy lengths, defined by the
(clusters of hills on either side, and
an isolated sand mound now and
again looming up like a dome with-
^ |^"^^ri'^'''^^^^^^'^^0'^'t apparent connection with the
.,..,^r=' °'y;Wvf -^^ _■■'■- hills. An occasional length of thorny
,«4i,«^ vines and trees, gray, spectre-like, gaunt,
'gnarled, bare of leaves but clad in cruel re-
pellent thorns, were made more conspicuous by the luxuri-
ous wide-spreading branches of a baobab, or a mango, inter-
spersed with brilliant flowers, prolific, delicate ferns, and
marvellous cacti.

The rain had imparted an agreeable, smiling freshness to
nature, veiling the burning red sands and tufted stubble with
a generous verdure, which spared us all much discomfort.
This portion of the route, however, is generally conceded to
be full of hardships, especially as the porters are scarcely
broken in to their work, and their feet are soft and easily
burnt. In making such a detour as the wait-a-bits and

174

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Other natural obstacles provokingly compel in Africa, length-
enino- the journey to a given point at times immeasurably,
my men became surly, evincing symp-
toms of insubordination. Suddenly the
leaders wheeled around, halted the line
of porters following, pitched their loads
in wild disorder upon the groimd, saying
Bebe did not know the road, and refused
to budge, and as the porters in the rear
kept coming up they were incited to
manifest the same spirit. The minor
headmen made futile attempts to rally
the men, and beat about in a lusty man-
ner with their kibosh, all to no effect.
Hamidi, m\' factotum, was in the rear,
far away ; and Josefe, my interpreter, was
simply guyed and scofted at for every
order he issued from me. Then or
never I realized I must demonstrate to these mutinous, half-
savage men that I would be obeyed, and that discipline should
be enforced at any cost. Only for one instant in perplexity
I paused, a vulture flew overhead, 1 drew my pistols and .sent
a bullet whizzing after it, and brought it surely down at my
feet, to the astonishment of the revolting men.

With both pistols cocked, suddenly I became eloquent in
the smattering of the Swahali which I knew, without interpre-
ter, inspired with fearlessness and strength I started through

WArr-A-Brr 'ihorn

REVOLT AND DEATH.

175

the centre of the rebelHous throng, pointing first one, then
the other pistol in quick succession at the lieads of the men,
threatening, and fully prepared, determined, and
justified to shoot the first dissenter.

As with unrtinching, angry eyes fixed upon
them, I exclaimed, " Get up ! take your load !
One! two! th !" and before the three was pro-
nounced the man addressed was on his feet,
grasping" his discarded load. After half a dozen
men were thus warned, and the entire throng re-
vealed uneasiness and were stirring-, I turned
upon them and said, " Every man who is not
on his feet with his load on his head, when I
have counted three, I will shoot ! " They knew I
woidd, and knew I had been empowered to do
so by the Sultan of Zanzibar.

RACONTA

Then I had no fear : now I marvel how ever beads.
I had the temerity to take such extreme measures.

I halted my caravan, and through
the pelting rain, attended by Josefe
and two askari, retraced my steps to
meet Hamidi, who had been de-
layed by the accidental disablement
of two porters, who were being
slowly carried. He returned with
me, and the men were harangued in such plain language
there could be no future misunderstanding. The two

NATIVE WOODEN COMBS.

1/6

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

ringleaders were flogged, order restored, and that march
resumed.

This was the first and last revolt during my safari,
and if it had not been promptly and fearlessly
quelled, my life would not have been safe, and
the entire caravan would have been in constant
danger from similar outbreaks.

Although it rained daily, many well-known
pools, or ziivi, were filled with mud and slime,
and the porters would drink the loathsome '^"^d"-'''^'^ ^'^'^■

"^ fluid, heedless of resultant ill-
ness. On the hill of Taro are
famous water-holes, or small
cisterns, which irregularly
honeycomb masses of flat
rocks, called ungurunga.
These are remarkable natural
formations, cupped into and

channelline a short distance
beneath the surface of
granite-like rocks. Many
theories are offered to explain
their existence. Some sug-
gest that they have been

\ carefully enlarged by the

TRADE DEADS. \,:^v\y\^ of thc wild uicu from

time to time, when they have traversed the plains. Slight

REVOLT AND DEATH.

depressions in a soft portion of tlie rocks, where water was
observed to accumulate, liave been scooped out by travellers,
and increased by the decomposition of decayed vegetation.
Many of the holes are mere pockets ; whereas others I dis-
covered were connected beneath the surface of the rock, some
two to four feet in diameter and ten to twelve feet deep.

Here every
kibiiyu or cala-
bash or bottle or
kerosene tin was
filled, to meet
the requirements
of one of the
most difficult
marches through
an up-hill coun-
try.

As we were
about to move I
on, I observed a
tree covered with what seemed to be yellow blossoms, so
thickly set that the color of the bark from root, branch to
top could not be discerned. Casting my eyes up, and lost
in wonder, my Masai interpreter, who was something of an
African cicerone, pushed forward, and tossed his turban into
the tree. The jellow rose on wings, and proved to be the
tiniest birds imiaginable, in size between a humming-bird and

METAI. NKCKLACES FOR GIFTS.

178 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

an ordinary butterHy. Not one twitter, only the rustle
and whir of thousands of wings, as the yellow graduall)'
coalesced into an airy cloud overhead, and was gently
wafted far away out of sight.

Useless to narrate day by day the routine and de-
tail of marching, or to make much ado about hardships
and trials, which were the consistent outcome of such
a journey. We met only a few straggling natives. Fever
I began to be manifest among the men. Warburgh's solu-
' tion was promptly and lavishly administered ; their feet
and legs swelled, and great gaping ulcers appeared.
These were most miraculously healed, through a simple
treatment. First, the ulcers were washed out, and the
cavity was filled with powder iodoform ; then bandaged
with a strip of antiseptic gauze, over which was tightly
tied a piece of goat's or sheep's hide, and left without
redressing for several days, when the ulcer would ha\e
healed and present a wholesome surface. This simplified
and minimized the medical labors which were incumbent
upon me. The swelled and blistered feet were relieved
by hot water when available, and constant use of
grease, which I provided in almost limitless quantities.
With considerable horror I discovered that two of ni)-
I men were afflicted with a malady simulating, if not
^•'^' actualK', leprosy. They were kept isolated as much as
si'KAR. possible, to await developments, and in a few da)s
when tlie toes on the foot of one man dropped off, and

MAS,
LONt

REVOLT ANU HEATH.

179

the other case became an aggravated form of leprosy, there
was nothing left for me to do but arrange to provide for
them and lea\'e them with some kind natives, until they could
join a coast-bound Arab caravan, or b}' degrees work back
to Zanzibar.

Ever\' man in the caravan who had not had smallpox,
or had not been recently vaccinated, I vaccinated, and
strangely not one man was disabled thereby, although every
case "took"; this may be attributed to the
excellency and purity of the vaccine and
certain h)-gienic laws I unremittingly per-
sisted in having the men observe.

When encamped the temporarj' invalids
were assigned the duty of camp scavengers,
swept with besoms of their own make-up all
the litter, and burned all rubbish, and it was
forbidden that anj- one should in any way
befoul the camp or its immediate vicinity.

The nights were made hideous with the roars, howls,
grunts, chatter, yappings, and croakings of wild beasts and
frogs, crickets and cicadc-e. Our camp was always surrounded
by a thick thorn hedge, and camp-fires blazed on all sides.
Through the interstices of the hedge could be seen the red
glaring eyes of the prowlers, and when the animals became
too intrusive, a random shot sent them helter-skelter to a
safe distance.

We intercepted a caravan, and I sent a |3ackage of letters

KAUZU WORN BY
HEADMAN.

I So

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

to the coast, sealed and tied, with a name ring- affixed.
There was a thrill of delight in being able to communicate
with the world
of civilization
through this
means of mail
carriers not
included in
any zone sys-
tem.

After marching during a perfect
hurricane, with the rain pelting and
soaking us, the van of the caravan led
as ever by me, we arrived at the camp-
ing ground at the foot of Mungu to,
await the wear)' stragglers. As filthy
and disgusting a spot as can be ima-
gined, infested with vermin and cluttered
with all manner of discarded rubbish, provision tins, bits of
garments, old sandals, rinds of fruit, the chewed pith of sugar-
cane, bones, fragments of rope, broken bottles, and ash heaps.
The storm increased with such violence there was no choice ;
the camp must be made there, until we could get a supply of
water from the quenchless well at the top of the mountain.
Two thousand feet of rocks to scale by the footsore and weary
men, and jackals and lions in hazardous pro.ximit)'. Every one
was irritable and fractious, their din grew unbearable, when

REVOLT AND DEATH.

l8l

suddenly the storm abated and the sun burst out dazzling,
shedding a good-night radiance over all. Good-nature was
restored, the men began to sing, and each one eagerly
performed his task ; those detailed to bring water started
swiftly with their utensils and their guns up the steep
mountain ^^a"'^'^^ ^^^^^^5^^^ to the well, in order

to re- jjT ,.,a«s,AsaaiBfc,^f;;^^r ~ "^ turn before the sim

should vanish

and night set

in. A warn-

WOODEN MEAL DISH.

ing charge was given to a young porter not to tarry, and
above all not to wander away from the others, knowing full
well he might be enticed by the sight of the wild pepper
and berries that there abound.

Awaiting the return of porters sent for water and watch-
ing the laggards of the rear come into camp, my attention
was attracted by seeing upon the arms of a Wa-Duruma
woman a curious pair of pink and white bead armlets. I
tried to purchase them from her. .She wa.xed \-ery angry at
the mere suggestion, her eyes flashed indignantly as she

lS2

SULTAN TO SUI.TAX.

gathered herself up on her feet, and placed her back against
a tree as if to defy me.

"No! Bebe Bwana, no! no! no! My man has
h gone to Chaga land, and these he placed on m\' arms
\ to prove my faithfulness to him. They \vere his mar-
3 riage gifts to me. No ! no ! no ! I will not ! "

Nor could she be induced to part with her bridal
bawbles, although I made her tempting oft'ers of cloth
and beads she much coveted. However, her protest
and sentimental indignation were worth tenfold the
value of the armlets as a revelation of character ;
and yet these natives are reputed by white men to
possess no idea of nor disposition to faithfulness in
their marital relations. They may be inconstant, but
GRASS {ii^gy g^j-g faithful in a way.

BEAD •' -^

NECKLACE. Night fell ; the moonless darkness was so intense
it seemed palpable. Every man was in camp but one.
The roll was called. Alas! no answer came to "Ferusa bin
Sura," the boy who went with
the others to bring water.
Every man was questioned
concerning him. Yes, the)- had
filled their vessels all together ;
he was there with them, and
they had all started down to- BKAD-ixLAin bo\\x.

gather; no one had noticed that he loitered, although the
Avild pepper was plenty and they all had gathered some as

REVOLT AND DEATH.

iS:

they came leaping down the rugged mountain, but driven
by hunger, fatigue, and the fear that night might overtalce
them, tliey had not tarried.

Hamidi organized a search party with torches and guns
to search for Ferusa
bin Sura. Kerosene
cans were opened and
great bonfires made.
The relief party
shouted, yelled, and
sung. A protest re-
sounded on all sides
from the wild beasts.
Presently an unearthl)-
shriek overrode all
other noise ; my heart
fairly choked me in its agonized plunges and curdled my
blood, for I realized that poor Ferusa was being devoured
by the lions. Nothing could now restrain me. With a well-
armed body guard and torches I made them conduct me
up the mountain path and fire volley after volley, trying
to frighten the animals; all to no purpose. We finally dis-
covered that he had fallen into a gully, and there had been
pounced upon by lions he had disturbed. Nothing was left
but to retreat, and in the morning search for his remains.
We found a bone or two, and the water pail ominously
marked with my name. Sometimes in the night my memory

NAIIVE DISH MADE OF OXE PIECE OF WOOD.

1 84

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

SPIRAL METAL NECKLACE.
NATIVE WORK.

vividly brings back those ear-splitting shrieks, and the vhole
scene, with its spectacular horrors, parades through my brain.
This was the only human creature I left dead in Africa;

although later on I had an attendant
so violently ill with fever, so mad in
delirium, forcing upon me great per-
sonal solicitude and requiring hourly
vigilance on my part, and a total
surrender of all other special attend-
ants to the invalid's care, in order
to prevent another tragedy. The
caravan ambulance of this one inva-
lid required the service of eighteen during four fifths of my
safari, but reached home comparatively well.

During the day I visited some villages we passed, where
there was scarcely any sign of habitation ; the huts wide open,
the fires burning, completely deserted, with the exception of a
few old men and women lolling about ; for every one else had
gone to work on the shambas, or jjlantations, which the auspi-
cious rains had made fertile, or had followed those who did
work in order to secure to themselves companionship. But
when the sun was about to set, surging from all directions
came the natives, the women bearing upon their heads
long loads of grass or wood, happy and joyful as if the day
had just begun and they were anticipating some fete, rather
than having just finished their labor and returning home for
rest and refreshment.

o
o

REVOLT AND DEATH.

185

WOODEN SPOON.

Methods of working the plantations seem rather hard upon
the women, because the few tools they use are without
handles, and the Zanzibar hoe
is a bastard pick and hoe com-
bined, something like an adze.
The shortness of the metal haft, which is projected from the
tool itself, compels the women to bend almost double as they
break up the ground.

Fortunately the rare fertility of the soil lessens the
necessity of much work of this kind. They cut the grain

with curved .. ,.,.1..^ _ knives sharpened

on the .,eil^^1M^li'^C¥k'>^>WO^f%^j inner edge,

HIDE ASl> BE,\D CAP WORN P.V SULTANS

something- like a modified sickle, as well

as with long straight knives looking like dirks.

The curved knives are principally used for cutting

banana stalks and grass. The women resort to a rather

singular artifice in case the bunch of bananas they essay to

1 86 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

cut happens to be very heavy ; they manage to stand up
directly beneath it upon a stone or log, and by throwing
their heads back and a peculiar curving of the spine, ma-
noeuvre until they make platforms of their necks and breasts,
upon which they ease up the heavy bunch, while they reach
overhead to the extreme limit of their arms, grasp and hack
it off by a sweeping motion of their curved knives ; and I
have seen a woman supporting a bunch of such ponderous
weight that when it was liberated from its parent stem she
would fairly reel backward, stagger a moment to recover her-
self, and with difficulty keep from dropping her precious
burden until she was able to place it carefully on the ground.
Finally she would, with regathered force, firmly lift it on her
head and walk away with her burden, displaying the light-
ness and agility of a gazelle. The women never seem to
shirk carrying a load, however hea\'y it may be, if they can
once manage to get it settled and balanced upon their heads.

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

187

CHAPTER IX.

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

IFFICULTIES and hardships were
steadily in the ascendency trom the
n moment we left the sycamores at
Maungu, and struck the steppes to
the west. The mountains of Ndara,
presenting their rugged gneiss wall,
stand out boldly, and beyond the
mountains of Teita haz)' like a
half-tone. Nature became more
„__ •/;:,'■- "erratic, vegetation more varied; the

breccia rocks were full of bits of glittering quartz and mica,
thorns and angular branches made phantom-like profiles,
grasses of a height exceeding ten feet hid the glaring
red sand, and brilliant odoriferous flowers attracted swarms
of honey bees. Our march in the broiling sun, up the rising
ground, fatigued us considerably. Unfortunately, my advance
askari, whose business it was to lop oft the intrusive
branches and vines to make a wa)- for me, allowed a branch
of a thorn-tree to escape his grasp, which flew back and
struck me in the left eye, leaving a thorn thrust in my

i88

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

TEllA HUT.

eyeball. Such agony I never previously experienced, and the
attendant horror that, in removing the thorn, the eye might
possibly be destroyed, disquieted me to the degree when all
knowledge of expedients was vanished for a time.

Terror reigned supreme over every member of the
caravan, and the poor unhappy culprit supplicated me for
mercy, fearful that the penalt)' for his fault would be nothing
short of death. Although sorry for myself because of the
seriousness of the accident, there was certainly no wrath in
my heart for him. A singular coincidence occurred which I
feel justified in narrating, as it impressed the Zanzibaris as
to the actuality of the superhuman powers they heretofore

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

189

POISONED ARROWS.

had supposed were enthralled in mj- being. The same
askari met with a similar accident to his left eye thirty-
six hours after my misfortune, and gradually his eye ran
out, so that when we reached the coast, at the finish of
the sajari, the empty socket tortured my conscience, knowing
that he believed it was a retribution I had called down
upon him. He was a Roman Catholic convert, and during
the remainder of
the safari, after
his own injury,
he addressed
orisons first to
God, then to me.
He fully ac-
cepted his affliction from the beginning as a righteous punish-
ment I had called down upon him, and nothing could eradi-
cate this idea from his mind. He would pathetically and
without cant say, " Bebe is merciful, kind, and good; a Inoana
would have shot me."

After the shock had abated, my eye was bandaged, and on
we marched. One does not stop for an eye or a limb or a
life in Africa ; one is ever impelled to proceed, per augusta
ad aiigiista. With one eye I saw more than I can ever
hope to recount of the grandeur of Kilimanjaro, and am
repaid tenfold for all I suffered in Africa by the possession
of the confidence and friendship bestowed upon me by the
African primitives.

190

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

At the foot of the Ndara Mountain we halted just below the
Sagalia mission station, at least six hundred feet above. This
camping ground, so well known to all caravans traversing
that resfion, contains a number of uninviting straw and banana-
leaf thatched sheds, filthy with the indescribable debris of
many caravans, and giving out a strong odor of chickens,
goats, cattle, and, at this particular time, also of camels, for
the I. B. E. A. caravan taking camels up country had only
a few days before passed that way. Some of the tired
porters hastily put down their loads, and threw themselves

upon the litter,
heedless of the
filth and stench,
in their eager-
ness to avail
themselves of
the dubious
shelter. \ pool
of water fed
from the moun-
tain rills, if not

NATIVE MF.TAL RINGS AND GOATSKIN BROTHERHOOD RINGS. iudccd frOITl a

living wellspring, a dark, dank home for wriggling, loath-
some creatures, silently rested beneath outspreading sycamore
and baobab trees. Here the men scrambled and threw them-
selves flat on the ground, plunged their heads into the water
and drank until they had quenched their inordinate thirst.

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA. I9I

In quick response to our signal shots tlie natives dis-
charged two rifles, and men, women, and children, the young
and the old, began to swarm down the rugged escarpment
with amazing precipitation, bearing on their heads all sorts of
salable green stuff, and chickens, eggs, butter, gee, milk
curds, honey, and what other articles of barter their meagre
stock in hand warranted.

A great hubbub ensued, to which the porters largely
contributed, as there would be a mutual recognition of an
old acquaintance. Mr. Wray, the former
resident of the Sagalia mission, also the
agent of Ibea, had resigned their posts 1
in consequence of the dissatisfaction mani- snuff-box.

fested by the natiyes in a series of unbearable jaersecution.
Their absence deprived me of an opportunit)' I had largely
counted upon whereby to obtain some interesting data.

Whilst the men of the caravan were bartering, cooking,
bathing, and filling their calabashes, attended by Josefe and
three askari, I climbed over six hundred feet up to the top
of the hill to take a bird's-eye view of the surrounding
country and visit the people.

Depravity seems to be an eminent characteristic of natives
in easy touch to coast traders and caravan traffic. The
Wa-Teita, especially that branch of the tribe known as the
Wa-Sagalia, who inhabit this portion of the mountain in the
province of Teita, situated as it is at the four corners of
caravan routes leadino- to and from the coast in various

ig2

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

directions, present a glaring example of the statement. They
are grovellers, devoid of self-respect, and evince a shameless

state of beggary; although they possess
a most fertile tract of country, pro-
tected by its eminence from surprises
by hostile tribes, their indolence and
the prevailing demoralization of the
women too often reduce this tribe to
a sad plight of penury.

The flagrancy of the • women is
most disgusting, from all accounts
given by reliable travellers who have
been forced to camp here for a few
days. Food was too high priced to
entice my porters to tarry long, there-
fore during the few hours we halted I
was spared the humiliation of being
an involuntary witness to their degra-
dation.

Neither the men nor women are
comely of feature or fme in figure.
Their color is brown rather than black;
they file and discolor their teeth and
tattoo their bodies in a rudimentary way,
without motive or any conventional
fashion. The women artificially make their breasts pendulous,
and shave their heads, all but a circular crown patch, which

BRASS AND IRON 1;EAUS.

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

193

they strand and string beads upon ; the prosperous or favor-
ite women attach a number of strands of beads around their
heads, in addition to the crown of
beaded hair, and per-
mit several strings to
hang down over their
ears and shoulders;
they wear high masses
of dark blue and red
small beads, called

lar^e

sail -SCI) I,

to d

is-

tinguish such from
seed-beads, around their
necks, until their chins are
awkwardly thrown up anc
pressed backwards; also a bead

girdle, or smiply more goatskin ki,ap worn by many tribes,

strands of beads roped ornamented with beads and chains.

about the waist ; then a dark blue or brown — clay stained
— cotton loin-cloth or kilt skirt, very short, coming only half-
way between hip and knee, or a tiny scrap of cloth or goat-
skin hanging in front, or a small triangular flap of goatskin
dangling behind from their waists ; large pewter and bead
armlets and upwards of twenty-four wire hoops two and
one half inches in diameter, on which are strung all sorts
of small beads, in one ear, and in the other a few hoops
of large green and blue glass rings of the sort that are

194 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

prized by the Masai. In various punctures around the rim
and in the lobes of their ears they thrust bits of sweet

grass, circular pieces of
ivory or bone, porcupine
quills, brass, iron, and
copper danglers orna-
.mented with a few large
showy beads. All these
beads represent accuniu-

\VA-TE!TA BEAD AND METAL EAR-RINGS.

TWENTY-FOUR WORN AT A TIME. lated wcalth. OccasioU"

ally women had followed the fashion of the Zanzibaris slave
women, and wore little studs of various materials put through
holes bored into their nostrils and lips and cheeks. When
they are fortunate enough to possess a bright variegated
bandana or handkerchief, they delight to display it on their
person. Horn, metal, and goatskin rings bedeck their hands.
Although their hands and feet are broad and thick, they are
not long, and cannot fairly be called large. They, as
other natives, detest ablutions, and use quantities of animal
and cocoanut oil overlaid with yellow clay and accumulated
dirt.

The men wear odd bits of all sorts of calico, deck out
their persons in ivory and bone and metal armlets and leg-
lets, wear similar ear ornaments, arm themselves with bows
and arrows, carry a hide quiver filled with poisoned arrows;
the poison they use, and many other tribes in East Africa, is
a vegetable product from the province of Gyriama, which

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

195

WA-TEl'lA EAR-RINGS.

they procure from the Arab traders, or direct through their
own envoys from the people of the country.

Polygamy exists, and a degenerate outcome of the men's
thriftlessness leads them to marr)- their own mothers and
sisters and even their own children, because they are too
improvident or actually in some
cases too poor to purchase
an unrelated wife ;
hence the offspring
of these consanguin-

which enervate alike

their mental and

physical forces, must

retrograde and develop vicious tendencies in their degenerate

progeny, if they do not in time happily become sterile.

Their religion, such as it is, may be safely called fetich.

As they depend largely, as one of their most profitable
products, upon the yield of the calabash, which is the fruit
of the baobab-tree, when a famine threatens they plant
numbers of this tree to propitiate the elements, and regard
as a bad oinen the destruction of a baobab-tree if through
accident or intention.

All the hair, as a rule, is shaved close to the skin. Magic
doctors are held in high repute. Women are the accoiiclicurs
and specialists for women. Puberty is attained at an early
age, as in all tropical countries. The v^'omen ma)' marry

196

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

at the age of ten, and the youths at fifteen. The families
are not large. Virtue here has no place. Men and women
antl children drink pombc, and smoke
long wooden or iron pipes, and use
snuff. The inevitable snuff-box dangles
In sight, for every tribe in East Africa
indulge in the habit.

Plenty of game could be discerned
ambling away on the outstretch of
steppes beyond. A sudden mist shrouded
the distant sight of Kilimanjaro, which
deprived us of seeing the grand moun-
tain's peaks. Rain portended, and despite
the protest the natives made, we soon
were in train to march.

The natives were struck with amaze-
ment to see the loliitc won/an, and
several stood as if riveted to the ground,
with their loads on their heads, staring
at me for hours. Men squatted about
with their bows and arrows clutched in
their hands, mutely watching every move-
ment I made. The Palanquin was a
veritable surprise to adults and children.
All wanted to see it carried ; and when
the bearers lifted it up to proceed on

WA-TEITA BEAD HOOP

EAR-RINGS. our safai-!. they ran m droves after

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

197

them, shouting and screaming with dehght, exactly as do
street gamins pursue a circus caravan going through a town.
Shaba, tlie old chief of Sagalia, had presented me with a
few of his ear ornaments, for which I had gi\'en in return an
ample amount of beads ; however, he expressed great
dissatisfaction, and demanded some Americana, white cotton
sheeting, which Hamidi peremptorily refused. He planted

■Cuo*

WA-TEHA NECKLACE.

himself close beside me wherever I chanced to move, and
commenced a nagging grumble, about being so poor and
that I was so rich, and what the other travellers had given
him. A more abject-looking creature can scarcely be de-
picted. His wives sallied about him to lend their voices
to his bewailings, until for peace and quiet I came very near
acquiescing to their demands. The women, to incite my pity,

igS

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

carried their wretched-looking babies shing over their backs
in a hide or length of cloth, but Hamidi protested that he
would satisfy and silence the "beggars."

Rather a sprightly bronze beauty — a beauty according to
the accepted rule of that country — came racing up to me,
repeating over and over again, " Bebe, Bebe," extending her
arms, holding in her hands a sweet grass bead necklace, and
a round bone ornament pierced in the centre, which she had

worn on her own neck. 1
;pted her proffered
curious to know
hat she would
demand in return.
To my astonish-
ment, she spit at
me. In my dis-
gust and indigna-
tion, I was about
to return her pres-
Mits, when Josefe
;hecked me by saying
is merry way, " Quite
right, Bebe, it is their way
of paying you a compliment;
they all do it in this part." So they do, as we shall see
later on. Rather pleased at the little maiden's evidence of
generous friendliness, I drifted into quite a revery, from

CARAVAN I'ATH.

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA. 1 99

which I was disturbed, some miles from the place of the
scene, by her voice and her presence. She had repented of
her free gift, and had pursued us to exact adequate pay-
ment for, or the return of, the trifles. She was pacified with
the glitter of a few pice and a name ring.

Whilst I partook of my luncheon, sitting in my Palanquin,
I confess experiencing great embarrassment in the presence of
the large audience of natives who thronged about to gaze
and comment upon the performance, wherever we chanced
to halt, from beginning to finish of our safai-i.

The observances of little ceremonies and indulgence in
certain refinements, as well as some few luxuries, conduced
not only to my prestige in the natives' eyes, but to my
personal comfort and self-respect. Requisite accessories add
but little to the expense of a safari, and bring a threefold
result : namely, in appearance, in instructiveness as to the
white people's customs, and not the least, to personal conven-
ience and comfort. All talk explanatory of such, not illus-
trated by actual representation, could not do half the service
of certain observances adhered to consistently by a leader.
It is not foolish. It is essential in studying traits of native
people, and to provoke and develop the play of their intel-
lect when brought face to face with strange manners and
customs.

On we pushed, trying to reach a suitable camping ground
for the night, despite the sharp showers that fitfully swept
down upon us. Suddenly, as the sun neared the horizon, a

200

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

BEAIlED FIGLEAF.

violent outbursts ot

bow of promise, with tliree reflected glories of its radiant self,

made the heavens magnificent, and the storm ceased. Alas!

photographs taken of this and similar manifestations of the

elements proved utterly worthless,

— vagfue, meaningless, and black be-
es ' o

yond the recognition of a single out-
line or effect.

Encased in a waterproof coat,
rubber boots, and a cover over my
topcc (pith hat), I defied every storm,
and marched with ease through
wind-driven rains. My head askari
shouldered me to convey me across a muddy, leech-infested
stream, swollen by the recent downpourings, and in his
effort to obtain a foothold on the slimy, somewhat abrupt,
yielding bank, slipped, and dumped me into the turgid
waters. When fished out I certainly was a bedraggled-look-
ing object, both e)es closed with mud which trickled down
from head to feet, my mouth, nostrils, anci ears resembling
overflowing phials of pea soup.

Witnessing the event, Hamidi's kibosh ( rhinoceros-hide
stick) went whistling through the air as he impulsively plunged
throueh the stream to chastise the frightened askari. How-
ever, in justice I signed him oft', and made merry of the
incident, protesting it was not the man's lault through any
carelessness. Quietly I resolved never again to trust myself
to the hazard of a similar ducking, and thereafter swam or

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA.

20I

^^rw^^rv^^V" -w ^^i

forded the streams, only making exceptions when we had to
plod through short spaces of muddy, swampy ground, and
there was no sense in making myself uncomfortable or
hideous for hours by loading down my clothing and feet with
tenacious clay and slime.

Straggling natives at first were very shy and half sus-
picious, although never hostile or reluctant to supply us with
food when we would reach their settlements, although at
Matata the prices were even more exhorbitant than at Teita.
This can be accounted
for from the fact that
our reputation had
preceded us, and we
were heralded as a
/)/£' and ricJi safari,
and that Bebe Bwana was a white queen.

The plantations were very fertile, and the women, who
are the legitimate agriculturists of East Africa, bediz-
ened with Qrlisteninof beads and shinino- metal, tilled the
ground, without apparently deeming their task to be any
hardship. Somehow the natives' acceptance of the inevitable
is very fine. Knowing that we were to traverse their
country, they were evidently on the alert to see me, and were
disporting their splendors in honor of the event. They were
not surprised, and passed upon m)' anomalous appearance
without hesitancy. My long hair was an unremitting source
of amazement to all the tribes I met. They queried why I

TWO EKADED CaRDLE.^.

202 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

did not shave it off, lilce theirs. My crooked Alpine stock,
with its blue pennant emblazoned with the magic device,
noli J71C tanzci'c, was much admired and I tear coveted.
They innocently deemed it to be a badge of high rank,
never havine seen one before, hence inferred that I must be
of supreme importance and possessed of limitless power, to
pass over their idea of the inexhaustibility of my material
resources.

On all sides I was besought for razors and clasp-knives,
which I bestowed freely. An explorer's knife, worn attached

to my belt, delighted them with its
iintltuiu in parvo contents.

They would peer around and into
my tent if the flaps were fastened
^ '^ back to the guys, when fitted up
^. -V with all of its paraphernalia, and
- ) stand, eyes wide open, fixed with
V -amazement at the mysterious ap-
'jpointments thereof, for hours, with-
out becoming weary.

At night I would set alight mag-
nesium wire, red and green Greek
powder, or send up rockets, antl
EGG-SHAPED BEADS. somctlmcs fire a voile)' for their

amusement when they were bold enough to venture to defy
the dark, of which they have an inherent fear, measurably
shared b)' all African tribes.

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA. 203

On our route at Ruru we found, curled up tinder the
meagre cover ot a tew branches overspread with palm leaves
and grasses, a poor, ill wretch dying-
frc^m neglect and hunger, who hail
been discharged, it was said through
his |:)hysical inability to proceed with head-inlaio dish.

a cara\an destined to a certain station, and turned adrift,
without adequate means to reach the coast as best he could
or drop dead in the bush. Poor fellow, he managed to drag
himself several days on his homeward journey, antl then col-
lapsed in his utter helple.ssness at this point. Although I
was carrying a document from an authoritative officer to
various subofficers, occup)'ing stations in East Africa, ordering
them not to deplete their stores, nor to provide me with sup-
plies of barter goods, ami under no circumstances to assume
any e.xpense in my behalt, or enlist in any of my undertak-
ings other than to warn me of ilanger and if possible prevent
me from incurring risk of lite, coinmon humanity asserted itself,
and I provided one of their adandoned wretches with a tempo-
rary abiding place in the care of a native family well known to
my headman Hamidi, and left him trade goods sufficient to get
him to the coast when he should be able to travel. Three weeks
afterwards, three natives from this village presented themselves
in my camp to demand further payment ior the maintenance
of the fever-stricken waif. Their claim I promptly repudiated,
as it could only be regarded in the light of sharp practice,
for the man had died, by their own confession.

204

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

We were constantly coming across the fresh spoor of buffa-
loes and rhinoceros, and the bush was trampled significantly.
The rear part of the caravan was put to rout by the dash of a
herd of zvilde bccsfc which had been disturbed by the noise
whilst grazing, but after the panic subsided it was found that

no one had been hurt;
then the)' all boasted
how they could have
brought down the en-
tire herd if Bebe
B w a n a had only
r^^^ given them per-
mission to shoot.
D u r i n o- the

WOODEN PASIN.

course of the day I was fortunate in bringing down a lovely
gazelle at two hundred and forty yards, — a random shot 1
sent from my Winchester into a herd. This bit of luck was
hailed with great acclamation by my men, and they boasted
about it with as much fervency as if they, each one, had
individually bet;n the marksman.

Several porters started on a gallop to bring in the
game. It was soon flayed, and the meagre portion of
meat it afforded was dressed and sent to my cook tent.
Selectino- a few steaks, the balance was eiven to Hamidi, to
distribute to the sick, after reserving the liver and kidneys for
his own mess pot.

Although quantities of big game abounded, after a few

DEI'KAVEI) WA-I'EITA.

205

experiments it became obvious to me that it would throw
my caravan into wild confusion to engage in sport which
would not have had a brilliant result, as my men were not
expert in the use of rifles. However, when we could not
procure meat, and the men seemed to require a more generous
diet than fruits, corn, bananas, and yams, I would try my
hand. Partridges and Guinea fowls were plenty, and flew up
from the bush when we were right upon them. One morn-
ing, in less than an hour, with my revolver, I shot for the
pot nineteen, without the slightest tax of skill. The inflam-
mation that had set up in my injured eye behooved me to
avoid long-range sights. However, after my minor successes,
I fully comprehend why it is that f\ great sportsmen like
Sir John \VilIoughb\-, » Jackson,
have expressed them-
selves with so much en-
thusiasm about this
" hunter's Paradise."

A deplorable species of
" buck fever," belonainc: ex-
clusively to no particular
country, experienced b\" me
when in too close proximit)'

to the ivories of elephants encountered on my sajari, pre-
vented me taking photographs of the admitted greatest
source of commerce in Central, East, and West Africa, —
a commerce which lias a nefarious significance when one

Chanler, and others.

kHINoi. KROP.

206

SULTAN TO SL'LTAN.

speaks of black ivory, or slaves; for It is the white ivory yield
which is the very key-note of slavery for the ill-favored blacks
who are captured and impressed into service by the Arab i\ory
traffickers to transport their hauls to marketable points, and then
sold when their task is accomplished. Another plea for proper

and humane trans-
portation, to which
obviou si y Chris-
tians, hu m a n i t a-
rians, commercial
promoters, coloniz-
ers, should lend
unanimous voice.

Our caravan
was constantly be-
ing joined by small
Arab caravans,
who were bound
jKWFi.i.r.D pRFSKNis FOR sui.TANP. '^ luterioT to the

elephant regions, expecting to be absent from the coast for
one, two, and three years. The paucity of their numbers,
and seeming inefficiency of their barter goods, provoked me
to make many inciuiries which resulted in certain revelations
as to luno it is dow.

A few Arab merchants, none of the number particularly
wealthy, form a little band and pool their money to venture
themselves or employ available men to go interior for ivory,

DEPRAVED WA-TEITA. 20'/

and with combined forces procure the smallest possible
number of porters requisite to carry their wares, and forth-
with proceed. They do not hesitate to plunder the natives
of their accumulated ivory, which they usually bury for safe
keeping ; or purchase at a rate barely removed from actual
looting, or even employ native hunters to bring down the
elephants and secure for them live ivory tcmbo. When they
have collected sufficient, without hesitation, in the name of
the Sultan, they capture strong natives to carr\' their ill-gotten
gains to the coast marts,

The surveillance of the European officers over the
posts and stations of their respective governments, in order
to collect the duties of the incoming ivory caravans, has a
judicial tendency to check the intlux of slaves. The Eng-
lish, Germans, French, and Belgians, as well as the .Sultan
of Zanzibar and some others, have united and pledged
themselves by the passage of a law to suppress slave raiding
and to free newly made sla\es.

208

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER X.

ON TO '1"A V KTA.

SELESS to mark day by day our
progress over a most variable, inter-
esting route known to all caravans
who hail for Taveta.

The scenery at times was superb,
Lake fipo shone like a copper
„/ mirror, and now and ao;ain we
:_^^ caught a transitory view oi the
snow-capped peak of Kilimanjaro,
only to lose it in the great sweeping shoals of Huctuating
mists. Excitement reigned every time there was a rift in
the flufly thick mantle, which would part like a curtain
drawn back from the centre, in consequence of the saddle-
like cut between the illustrious Ivibo and Mawenzi ; porters
shrieked, " Kilimanjaro ! Kilimanjaro ! " Erom van to rear the
call would leap from their lusty throats in quick succession.
The incomparable grandeur ami limitless expanse offered
the fiekl of vision put my heart athrill, and I felt if only
for this glorious sight I was more than amply rewarded
for all the hardships incumbent upon the undertaking from

ON TO 'lAX'lClA.

209

beo-innine to those lurkine alontr the line to the finish.
Mountain ranges on both sides of us, behind us, and Kili-
manjaro facing us, spaced and frontiered b\- long stretches of
plains over which bounded magnificent wild beasts, varied by

LAKE JIPO.

ravines, sloping hills, silver lakes, and gushing streams turbu-
lent!)' rushing seaward. A defined tree line, the point where
vegetation about ceases, the cloud line, and far, far above it
all the peerless domain of sun and moon and stars! That
picture can never be reproduced b)' word or color.

Again the Masai scare stirred m)' cowardly Zanzibaris. We
reached a point by a dismal pool overshadowed with enormous
trees, called Little Lanjaro, where the embers of the fires
were still smouldering, and the remnants of a meat feed all

2IO

SULTAN 'r(J SULTAN.

betokened the recent presence of the bogy-men, so the por-
ters acceded with a degree of alacrity to my command to
go a few hours further on to Big Lanjaro, where we could
comfortably rest during a day in camp to make a becoming
entrance into the forest-locked arcadian Taveta.

Rain, rain, pelted down upon us with unlooked-for fury.
With a howling gasp of wind that drove the rain into our

~~ faces, all was o\'er, the sun jjcered

out behind the clouds and
^J soon j)ut the storm to
light. I'^verything
fumed and steamed,
and the sultriness
became almost lui-
bearable. The
men rushed and

)lunged into the

stream, -which
;oursed below our
encampment, to cool
iselves.

.ere ascending a hill,
A 'JEST OF VALOR. trjiug to liold OUT tootlug on

a slippery goat-path, w-hen, without a loud spoken word, a
dozen porters dashed down their loads, crowded by me, com-
pelling me to halt, and at stated distances ahead each man
grasped a sapling from the side of the hill above the path

ON TO TA\ETA. 2 I I

and stood on die very edge of the path overlooknig' a wild,
dangerous ravine, muttered a prayer from the Koran, and
closed his eyes. A strange rattling of stones, crushing of
bushes, and clumps of flying earth came from above, followed
by an enormous bowlder, which in the serpentine trend of
the path, although I had not seen it, the porters on the out-
ward curve of the hill had, and voluntarily were standing
awaiting a doom that seemed inevitable to try and sheer the
bowlder off of its destructive course, and save me.

One instant, and the first man must be crushed. He
never winced, but stood his ground with feet firmly planted,
and his sinews and veins standing out over his entire body
like whipcords. My heart sank. I felt I could not endure
the sight, and closed my eyes. The ground crunched, some-
thing gave way, a man screamed, and there was a new crashing.
My eyes flew open in terror, but were greeted with the une.x-
pected. Just as the bowlder reached within one foot of the
first man, the earth crumbled, and it went swirling to the
bottom, and the brave porter lost his footing and was clutch-
ing the shrubbery right and left as he rolled down to save
himself, which he did, and all the other brave porters went
to his assistance. I made a detour to photograph that bowl-
der as it lay innocently at the bottom, by the side of which
a mountain stream went purling by as if nothing hatl hap-
pened. I christened the stone "A Test ot Valor."

During the da)- I was more than astounded suddenly to
e.xperience several shocks of trembling ot the earth, and upon

2 I 2

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

inqiiirj' was informetl these manifestations of suppressed
earthquake were far from being unusal in the vicinit\- of

/eta ; and although then; arc no
■idences ot a recent eruption,
tlie volcanic character of the
countr\' just bej'onti and the
extinct craters of the Kiliman-
jaro range would seem to be-
token that at some future
da\' an eruption might recur,
brom those who are learnetl
as to the geological character
LiviNc; iRF.ii GATES OF -lAVF.iA. of this regiou, I coukl obtain

no knowledge as to the existence of any fumaroles which might
indicate smouldering or latent \-olcanic action.

Natives are ver\- superstitious about these tremblings, and
are always thrown into a panic during their mild manilesta-
tions, and seek the shelter of their huts, close the entrances,
and revive the fires, as they huddle together in their apprehen-
sion. The thunder rumbled in the distance, and the black
clouds were cut xiu/asf across the dark heavens b\- blinding
lightning dashes, until the cataclysm seems to relieve the
surcharged heavens, at the same time gorging the throat of
every ra\'ine and water-wa)-. These fierce outlireaks ot the
elements fortunately are of short duration, and immediately
afterwards the country is smiling and fresh as possible, and
t'.ie water has become absorbed by the porous earth and

ON TO TAVETA.

21'

rocks ; if storms have not been continuous, soon the earth is
dry again, and the sands and rocks have been greatly cooled.

Haniidi, my headman, came rushing to me one day,
pointing to a swirling black cloud in the heavens which
seemed to be a centre of magnetic attraction, drawing impetu-
ously to itself all other clouds until they rapidly coalesced as
one mass, yet the greater part of the heavens was cerulean,
fair, and simn\'.

He exclaimed with considerable agita-
tion, " Bebe Bwana, we must set the tent
for you; that is a cloud-burst, you'll get
drowned with the rain shortl)'." W'ith con-
siderable curiosity, I queried what he meant.

" That cloud will wing its ^j^
\\a.\ tlirecth' over where we are

now marching and then fall to
earth, a solid sheet of water." _

As we were just about to Cr v_>' r^'
leave a valley, and I saw on all Iv -(2! ^- ■^■
sides the natives lleeing to (f^^'^fdT
the hills, and my porters all ^^ • ' ^ -
edging up towards the de-
clivities, I concluded I should like
to experience a cloud-burst, hence
refused to have my tent set. In a "•"•" L'-nox i-oii, rxxAMF.n.
moment the cloud did burst, and we were standinsr enfrulfed
by the downpoiiring to our armpits in water in less than

2 14 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

three minutes, and in less than ten minutes we were able
to proceed on our march with no evidence of the transi-
tory deluge, save the moist, glossy appearance of the stones
and foliage, and the balmy freshness of the atmosphere.
This manifestation of the elements is not peculiar to Africa ;
but since my return one or two Peruvian travellers have im-
parted to me a similar experience. I felt well repaid for my
obstinacy, and thoroughly enjoyed the adventure.

Hamidi informed me, with some hesitation, that it would
be impossible to get my Palanquin through the forest gates
of Taveta, as they were so low the men would have to push
their ordinary compact loads through, then crawl in after them.
Here was a dilemma. However, " the Palanquin must go
where I 20," that settled it, and it did enter Taveta more
than once, despite the gates ; twenty yards of unbleached
calico paved the way.

Wa-Taveta men, women, and children came far on the
road as we approached Taveta to bid me welcome, to bring
me tributes of all kinds, to say to the ivliiic queen, as they
persisted in calling me, that they had looked for me for two
moons, and almost despaired that 1 would ever arrive. Then
they asked about bioaiia this, and that, and the other who
had visited them in years agone.

Presently we met, at the confines of the forest environing
Taveta, a sentinel from the English post, who fired at least a
dozen shots in salutation, and informed me that the officer
in charge was absent, but had made preparations to entertain

z
o

*^^*.

ON TO TAVETA. 2I5

m(; in his boiua. How strange this sounded, after haxing,
hved in the open under canvas !

We began to \\end our waj- through the densest of
forest, gloomy, dark, difficult to advance rapidly with the
f a 1 1 e n giant trees,'
o\'erhanging \ines,
and ceneral tano"le 'iaveta i'ink ami whim. liEAu uirdi.e.

obstructing the wa)', antl in places sogg)' and hideously
muddy, after crawling through gates constructed out of living
trees which evidently had been trained from their stripling
period until their tall, thick, raddled branches and huge
trunks in course of years constitute formidable barriers.
There are, I was told, thirteen such gates, makino- Taveta
impregnable to the attack ol an enemy. The tiny cone-
shaped entrance, not three feet high, and about the same in
width at the bottom, is blocked b)' rolling huge logs against
the gap. Not only is Taveta stockaded thus, but the
tortuous maze-like paths diverging in all ways leading up
to a stream to be resumed on the other bank, and the
scatteretl boiiias, instead of congregations of huts, would
perplex, def\-, and frustrate an)- strange invader.

An awe crept over me. The porters were hushed, as we
struggled to threail our wa)-, imtil we attained the splendid
plantations of bananas, corn, sugar-cane, and tobacco. Arrayed
in brave splendors, the belles and beau.x, the husbands and
wives, crowded about us. The porters greeted old acquaint-
ances, and were welcomed in return with unmistakable fervor.

2l6 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Almost all the huts and officers' quarters of the English
post, which is the market place of the Wa-Taveta, were
placed at my service. Great and many preparations had been
made by the resident officer, who had sent a letter to await
me, sa\ing that he was on the road to Taveta, and would
hasten if I sent him word. He arrived, with his assistant
and posse of men, in a few hours.

My caravan was installed under cover, but I declined to
accept any shelter apart from my canvas dwelling, although
I found the new house of the assistant a convenient
storehouse and agreeable to retire to and put up my
personal attendants. I was deeply touched at the efforts
made in my behalf to beautify and make convenient this
little hut. It means more in East Africa than in great
centres of civilization, where the refinements and accessories
of comfort are easy to obtain.

Never was woman more indulged and feted than was I
during my sojourn. My eye had become greatl)- inflamed,
and I was tenderly ministered to by men who did not hesi-
tate to administer personally the kibosh to any wayward
fellow imder his command, and this care for me was delicate,
sympathetic, almost reverential. Gentlemen, I publicly thank
you now ; you had not to do with an mgrate.

Caravans always make a habit of halting at Taveta
sufficient time to string their barter beads, in consequence
of the abundant growth of rapliia ]>alm, generally known as
niioliala ; its fibre is stranded into threads of various thick-

ON TO TAVETA.

2 17

nesses. These incomings and outgoings keep the natives
in a perpetual state of expectancy and fete, as it were. The
market place and camping ground is within the homa of the
English post, and in order to collect the duties upon the
ivory there existed the somewhat arbitrary and uncomfortable
law, when I halted at Taveta, enforcing all caravans bound

FOUR PO^rBE CUPS.

for the coast, no matter what their destination or purpose, to
camp within the bonia under the immediate inspection of the
resident officer and his askari.

Wa-Taveta raise an excellent quality of tobacco, although
a trifle coarse through lack of proper cultivation, which they
do not habitually either chew or smoke, but use lavishly as
snuff, and the habit is prevalent among the women as well
as the men. This is universal among all tribes in East
Africa.

Their snuff-boxes are most varied and highly decorated,
often most beautiful. The ceremony of snuff taking quite

2l8

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

outrivals the former court etiquette respecting the same in
France and other countries of the last century. When the
compliments of the clay and polite salutations are at an
end, snuff is proffered and taken all aroiunl. Having been
informed of this custom, I had taken a large supply of snuff
and tobacco with me. Whenever a snuff-box was presented
to me by m}' request or \olimtaril\' by an)' native ot any
tribe, every atom of the snuff was patient))' extracted with
jealous care before the donor surrendered it to me.

Their plantations are fertile, owing to the fact that their
district never suffers from prolonged droughts. In good truth

water can be obtained anywhere in
this village by using an Abys-
sinian pipe, and the stream
which cuts through in the
woodland part of the settle-
ment is reputed always to
contain abimdant water.
On all sides could be seen
in thrift)' condition quantities of
sweet corn, — -maize, — wimbe, or
millet, pumpkins, tomatoes, sugar-cane,
several varieties of bananas, a number
TAVETA BEAD COLLAR AND NECKLACE. of edible vlues wliicli arc
cooked as greens or eaten as salad, and sweet potatoes
that were somewhat fibrous.

The English officers have placet! a haml-mill within their

ON TO TAVKTA. 2I9

boma for their own use, but generously accord to the natives
the privilege of using it to grind their corn and banana Hour ;
this relieves them of the tedious process of pounding the
grain and dried fruit in a wooden or stone mortar, with a
heavy wooden pestle, — an advantage they evidently seem to
highly appreciate, for the mill is never idle all day long.
Heretofore the women were allotted the task of pulverizing
the corn and bananas to an impalpable flour, and with ma-
ternal solicitude strapped their babes upon their l^acks, afraid
to put the little ones on the ground on account of the rav-
ages of the white ants, and they would be quieted and
rocked to sleep by the swaying motion of the mother's body
as she monotonously wielded the heavy pestle.

Honey bees thrive, and the Wa-Taveta manufacture
quantities of beehives out of logs ; they are cylindrical in
shape, three to four feet long, and a foot and a half in diam-
eter, hollowed out and then closed at one end, with a punc-
ture at the other to admit the ingress and egress of the
bees.

The honey is rather dark in color, but most delicious in
flavor and plentitul. It is put in hide boxes or calabashes.
We several times came across dead hollow tree-trunks, branches
lopped, standing erect, covered over with a removable piece
of hide, punctured to admit the bees, which were used for
hives. These primitives are utilitarians by nature.

Made hives are hung in the trees on the track of the
bee ranges, where honey flowers are most abundant. A similar

220

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Utensil to the made beehives is used in which to brew
their pombc\ a concoction of sugar-cane, bananas, or cocoanut,
wimbe, and corn. When the masli is fresli tlie beverage
tastes very much like unfermented mead or beer, but in the
course of three days fermentation has reached a point when
the brew becomes a subtle intoxicant ; and as it is profusely

^J brewed by al-
most every na-
tive of the tribe,
they are during
liarvest times in
a perpetual state
of jollification,
and all the un-
amiable qualities
and propensities
I if their natures
seem to be
strangely affect-
ed by this in-
toxicant. It is a
mistake to say
that the Africans
have been pollu-
ted in this respect by the invasion of white men, because they
have always, as far as one can ascertain, used potnbe and tcmbo
or other native drinks.

TIIK WdMAX I IF TAVETA.

ON TO TAVETA. 2 2 I

At Taveta I met a woman, whom I please to call " The
Woman of Taveta," who was in sore trouble. Immediately
upon seeing me, if I may use the expression, she adopted
me into her confidence, and all her troubles were poured into
my ears, and by her earnestness she so engaged my interest

BEAD KELT PRESENTED KY THE WOMAN OF TAVETA.

and sympathy it was a delight to try and assist her to
some better state of daily existence, which would preclude
certain trials she was subjected to. She was a woman
of intense feeling, a lover of power, indeed was a leader
among women, and the wife of one of the elders. Her
word seemed to be beyond dispute with them all. She
was eager that I should be a friendly witness to all of
the strange customs and habits of her tribe, and she had the
power as well as willingness to give me the open sesame to
them all. Twice at midnight, when the moon dances of the
cl-nioraii, from which women of the tribe are excluded, were
in lull swing, she stole to my tent, mysteriously signed me
to follow, and silently led me through the forest to a seques-
tered spot to be an unseen spectator to the wild, riotous
performance of the utterly nude fellows, who were unaware

222

SULTAN Tf) SULTAN.

of the presence of an interloper. Thus I was enabled to
become familiar with customs forbidden to the presence of
white men. How they pranced, gyrated, leaped in the air,
squatted on the ground and hooted, shook their long hair
and waved branches or brushes made of zebra tails, their
faces daubed, Masai fashion, with white chalk and red paint,
splotches on their cheeks, chins, and their eyes encircled with
broad bantls of color, their bodies shinine with erease under
the rays of the moon as the perspiration
started from every pore !

riirnugh the Woman of Taveta's instru-

mentalit}', I saw a funeral ceremony in

which the stift corpse of a chikl was fixed

in a sitting posture amidst blazing fagots,

until all the flesh was burnt off from the

bones. Meanwhile the men formed an

inner circle arouml the funeral pyre, and

p^ave vent in a lusjubrious voice to a mo-

notonous chant, slowly moving in an unbroken

img round and romiil, whilst the women, form-

mg an outer circle, moved in a reverse direction,

and as if in response to the threnody of the men,

at stated intervals they would make a

calf's stom.'^ch . , 1 1 -1 1 • 1 1

sweepmo" salaam, and while; then- heads

HEAD-DRESS, ORNA- ' =•

MENTED WITH READS wcre Still bowecl, utter a piercing wail.

AND CHAINS. ,p, ,. , • n I 1

1 he little ones tiesh was soon consumed;
only the bones remained; the skull was taken and reposed

ox TO TAVETA.

in a rude pottery urn, then carried to some distance and
lowered into a hollow tree containing the skulls of the de-
ceased members of the family. The bones were gathered
up by several men bedecked in flowing red and white cloths
and interspersed through the forest, evidently in places which
were already consecrated for the deposition of
such revered remnants
of the dead, amid the
exposed tree-trunks.

but not under the ground.
The)' have a strange idea that the
cadaver pollutes the soil, and de-
ters the fertility of crops. This habit
of disposing of the bones of those who have died normal
deaths, and the arboreal vaults with their accumulation of
bones, account for the suppositions that there have been
massacres committed, or that disease has ravaged the land
when found by caravans. There exists another burial custom
much more obnoxious. In a selected cleared spot not very
remote from their boiuas, well surrounded and hidden by
thorn-bushes and trees with dense foliage, beyond the obser-
vation of casual passers-by, if it were not for the foul, fetid
stench, in rude pottery urns turned up sidewajs are deposited
certain parts of the viscera, the heart and the head, and there
allowed to fester and decay, until in time nothing is lett
but the whitened skull. These burial places are not infre-
quently met with in all the villages I \'isited ; they are entered

2 24 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

by a very low squatty opening through the thorn-bushes,
compelling those who seek to effect an entrance to get down
and crawl through on their hands and knees.

The idea prevails that by the preservation of the skull the spirit
of the departed is saved, and that the congregation in one place
of the skulls of a family or tribe guarantees a future reunion.
Superstitions concerning death are decidedly obscure and
extremely heterogeneous in East Africa, and yet there are
little threads which have various origins, running through the
tissue of what may be called their religion.
They worship the moon and the sun,
and revel in sonofs or chants addressed
to the rain during planting seasons.
The Wa-Duruma near the coast beat
drums, but they are the only tribe in
the part of East Africa I visited where
BRASS WIRE SPRING NECKLACE, they use clrums.

A decided aversion among all tribes exists in respect to
permitting an outsider to know of the death of one of their
number ; if a familiar is missed, and an inquiry made concerning
the absence of such a one, an answer promptly comes, "He
has gone on a safari" — doubtless to the great hereafter.

Among the Masai the corpses are often tossed into the
open, where vultures or wild beasts soon devour them.

The birth of a first child is quite an event, but not so
subsequent births. Children are not numerous in any one
family or sections of families.

ON TO TAVETA. 225

Elders, or the oldish men who formerly, before the
occupancy of the English, exercised a dictatorship over
their tribe, strut about in a majestic way, with as much
sheeting as they can afford, ten, twelve, or fifteen yards of
Americana or white or unbleached or clay-stained drill or
cotton cloth, varied occasionally by Turkey red, or lasso
bandana handkerchiefs, — which trail behind
them, fastened over the shoulder, much like
a Roman toga ; and they have infinite grace
both in manner and speech, which seems

'■ COTTON CAP MADE

to marry well with their surroundings. on safari.

Many wear slung over their shoulders, attached to a
leather strap or chain, a little three or four legged stool,
which they carry, as they do their bows and arrows, wherever
they go, and, when paying a call or chatting in the open
with their comrades, they plant it on the ground to comfort-
ably sit upon, and take out from the knotted corner of a
bit of cloth their bead work, just as might a young white
girl engage in fancy work; these effeminate
warriors leave the toilsome avocations of

tilling the ground, and caring for the cattle,
COTTON CAP MADE and packing loads, and the duties of the

ON SAFARI. 1-^1 1

kitchen to the women.

Almost every individual, man, woman, and child, in the
Taveta community or tribe, carries a pombe cup, made from
a gourd, to which is affixed a long handle, sometimes beaded
or ornamented with metal rings ; the bowl of the cup usually

226 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

bears numerous effective devices, which make an interesting
study to trace their origin. Many ot the designs have been
adapted with more or less variation, prompted by the taste
of the copyist, from the scroll work on the little cotton caps
which porters delight in making and wearing when on safari ;
sometimes too they were of Turkish, again even Persian or
Egyptian origin. I consider as a great acquisition the pos-
session of a pombe cup which bears upon obverse and
reverse sides the first attempt I found or heard of to repre-
sent the human form divine ; and quaintly enough, the

white man is distintjuishable bv his feet,

> . . .

^- which are indicated by awkward lines to

ounterfeit shoes, and a school-child's
slate and pencil angular lines to represent
European clothing ; whereas, the native
iNLAin WOODEN BOWL. Is reprcseutecl with bare feet, and ears
stretched out of shape by heavy ear-rings.

Strange as it niay seem, when shown photographs, natives
have as a rule no real conception or appreciation of the
photographic semblance of human beings or animals. Sul-
tans Mireali, Mandara, and a few others are notable excep-
tions to this obtuseness. Photography is regarded as a
species of witchcraft or black magic.

There are certain beans and some sweet grasses made
into beads, and bits of horn, amber, iron, wood, animals' teeth
and glass beads, musk and xanilla, which are universally worn
as charms, alike to ward off evil as for dazva, or medicine, for

ON TO TA\ETA.

2 2 7

all maladies. Their possessors are very reluctant to part with
these charms, or (^a7va. However, the)' will lend them one to
another, when suffering, but always reclaim them when the
recipient has been alleviated, or before if personally needed.
With some difficulty I procured a string of these beads from
a magic doctor who had lost caste, in consequence of his mis-
fortune in permitting a man of importance to die during his

DAWA NECKL.-iCE.

ministrations, hence he desired to capitalize his stock of
charms and bad dazoa, and make haste to the coast, knowing
that his own life was in imminent jeopard)-. Peculiar black
pine-like needles obtained from a huge forest tree, the name
of which I could not ascertain, these are punctured, and when
strung resemble the coarse teeth of a large rubber comb,
and are much-prized dauia for enceinte women.

Strange native medical practices were revealed to me

228

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

through the auspices of the Woman of Taveta. The old
women are all skilled midwives. Mothers suffer ver)' little
during the period of gestation or in the throes ot childbirth.
A girl reaches puberty at the infantile age of ten. Youths
are circumicised by their own election when they no longer
wish to be children, but aspire to the station of cl-moran, as
early often as the age of twelve. The custom of circum-
cision must have maintained for many decades, for nature
frequently simulates it, and the parents boast of an offspring

■liii

TAVATA BEAD BELTS.

SO pre-eminendy destined to be a warrior, and the favored
boy is pointed out as one elect.

All the natives are most delicate about alluding to any
complaints of \h<t\x titniba (abdomen). All seem to possess a
minor yet practical knowledge of the use of herbs and
roots, and of imported medicaments. Sulphur, cjuinine, blue-
stone tlo they beseech the leaders of caravans for. They
suffer from itch, ulcers, sore eyes, and fevers. The Woman of
Taveta told me of bubbling hot-water ziwis (springs or pools)
where those who were afflicted with various diseases, includ-
ing smallpox and elephantiasis, made pilgrimages and were

ON TO TAVETA.

229

benefited, and of certain clays tliat the W'andorobo knew
about and brought down country that possessed curative
properties for coughs and stiff joints, a species of rheumatism,
and sometimes progressive paralysis caused from excessive
drinking and exposure to the ele-
ments. This paralysis, with
marked and retributive selec-
tion, inflicts the sultans and
important men of tribes, who
are in position to command the
largest harems, and indulge
themselves like Sybarites.

Personal decoration at-
tains a very great height

TAVETA STOOL, MADE OUT OF ONE PIECE.

at Taveta, especially among the
young men, who are much given
to dressing their hair in a very
quaint fashion, drawing it in
braided clumps, hanging down
sr over the face and divided

^S^ in strands made over the
back of the head, hanging
over the shoulders, which they plaster with grease and red clay,
to which they frequently add bead and metal pendants. These
young fellows, who represent the Taveta snobs, smear their

TOP OF STOOL, DESIGNS BUR.NT IN'.

230 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

bodies with grease, and tint tlitniselves with red clay. They
are very self-conscious and great posers, the very princes of
dawdlers and slaves of fashion. They divide themselves up
into little bevies, almost clubs, and they wear as an insignia
or badge of fellowship or brotherhood little armlets made of a
strip of cowhide, upon which are sewn beads in special
devices and chosen colors, which seem to indicate their
particular faction or club. They are great dancers and
merrymakers. The young fellows gather in groups and
dance as though in competition, one with the other; a dar-
ing aspirant will dash out from the circle apart from his
companions, rush into the middle of a circumscribed space,
and scream out, "Wow! wow!" another follows him and
screams in the same way; and a third, and so on. These
men will dance with their knees almost rigid, jumping into
the air faster and faster, until they bound with amazing
velocity, and their excitement becomes proportionately
greater, and their energy wa.xes more and more spasmodic,
leaving the ground frequentl\- fully three feet as they spring
into the air. At some of their festivals at which I was a
spectator, this dancing was carried to such a pass that I have
seen during a crisis a young fellow's muscles quiver from
head to foot, and his jaws tremble until his teeth chattered
like castanets in playing a tremolo, without any apparent ability
on his part to control himself, until he foamed at the mouth,
his eyes swimming about, his head wagging idiotically, from
his drivelling lips issued moans and shudders, and as one

ON TO TAVETA. 23 1

drunk finally he fell in a paroxysm upon the ground, to be
carried away to a ])lace of retirement by his companions
until he resumed his calmness.

This state of seeking artificial physical excitement bears
a singular resemblance to the dances of other people out-
side of Africa. I am not purposing to make deductions, but
I think there is considerable opportunity to study compari-
sons as to the motive which prompts various people to en-
gage in this physical excitement. It would seem to emanate
from an undefinable species of voluptuousness.

The women also engaged in dances, ^t^-^y
and especially as guests, during wedding '/'

festivities, bedecked with all their fine ^i!;^,™... ,,_^

toggery, they separate themselves from '''••'■'iK^^^^.li'^^''

the men and follow in a procession, one ■« \>»~^

child's bead fringe
after another, with their hands upon girdle.

each other's shoulders or hips, beating their feet in time, and
singing a strange, monotonous plaint, now and then inter-
spersed with shouts of laughter when they resume their
measured processional steps, jingling all the bells they have
about them with a peculiar jerk and lling of their hips and
shoulders as they go round and round, threading their way
through the forest, back again to the />omc7 of the host of
ceremony, drinking and carousing quite as much as the
young fellows. A certain amount of dignity is put upon
these gayeties by the presence of the elders; however, there
seems no viciousness in any of their games and pleasures.

232 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

They have a certain amount of animation and youthful ex-
hilaration, which expresses and expends itself in an abandon
to muscular exhibits and jocose explosiveness.

They are very jealous of each other in their attentions to
the uiziingu (white man), and seemed especially so respect-
ing m)'self; one family would briny me milk and eggs, but
seeing that somebod)- had superseded them, would im-
mediately commence a tirade as to the bad quality ot the
other's eifts, and recommend- j) ing their own with great

vivacit)-. However, they were
so pleased to have the "white
queen" with them, there was

\\ nothing among their posses-
ja sions which I really craved in
the end they did not give me.
FINE CHAIN GIRDLE. Qf coursc, it is wcll uudet-

stood that these gifts were alwajs reciprocated by me, it not
in kind, certainly in excess of value, but that does not in
an)' way detract from the fact that they were willing gifts,
and i)resented with a free, open hand, without expectation
of return, as a tribute to the " white queen."

Poinding the children very merry, I endeavored to amuse
them in every conceivable way. Soap bubbles were failures,
tops successful, and huge colored balls great favorites.
Masks of animals' heads and grotesque human faces simply
threw children and adults into jjaroxysms ot glee, until the
fun became rather too boisterous, and my porters overstepped

ON TO TAVETA. 233

the mark. As it was a gala day, and my four music
boxes were playing, it occurred to me a fine opportunity to
let fly some large Japanese paper kites, imitating birds
and fish, iVom which floated long streamers of bright-colored
taes. Takino- the end of the strings of several at once, the brisk
breeze inflated and carried them on their aerial flight far and
swiftlv into the air. True, the children were attracted, but
lo I instead of inspiring the delight I had expected, quick as
a flash the alert little chaps whipped
their bows from ofi their shoulders, at
the same time jerked their arrows from
their quivers, and with deadly aim shot
my poor kites, with imminent danger to
me, as their arrows spattered about very
freel}-. The voile)' was not discon-
tinued until every winged bird and

r 1 1 ,1 111 I!ONE .ARMLET.

nsh was brought low, the breath

knocked out of it, falling vanquished to the ground, a shabby,
shapeless thing, for the youngsters were animated more by the
inborn traits of hunter than juvenile play.

Not so with the adults. The)- queried with deep concern
what kept the aerials mid-air, and with much e.xcitement ex-
claimed and pointed to them as they floated serenely sky-
ward when 1 ran out in the open, free from trees, with my
arms outstretched over my head, manoeuvring to keep the
strings from becoming entangled. The vandal youngsters
were summarily waved away irom my encampment by the

234 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

elders, who evidently thought it the most natural thing- that
I would eive vent to g^reat ancer at the wilful destruction
of my air birds and fish.

The children amuse themselves, as do other children, vying
with each other shooting at a mark and at birds on wing with
their bows and arrows, which they succeed in doing with great
dexterity. They have some idea of forming companies and
drilling, and accept a leader whom they are disposed to follow.
Their education is a rudimentary one of imitation, and not of
instruction. They are impressionable and observing. Their
reasoning faculties naturally would be quickened and vivified by
attrition and calling them into play, although at present they
are, at times, somewhat slow to comprehend innovations to
their old habits and customs. They are afraid of monkeys, and
the lemur makes frequent nocturnal visitations to the settle-
ments, to the distress of the people.

There are, in parts of these woods, the most beautiful
butterflies, and some bright-plumaged birds and marvellous
beetles.

Many of the men wear upon their arms jaw-shaped armlets,
which are placed upon the arm in )outh before the muscles are
developed, and become imbedded in the expanded flesh to such
an extent that removal is almost like amputation, so painful and
difficult is the operation. Upon the three arms from which I
took the armlets I have in my possession, the scars were so
pronounceil and disfiguring that the owners of the surrendered
ornaments insisted that they should have a substitute of suffi-

ON TO TAVETA. 235

cient metal armlets to entirely cover the scars. There may be
traced a great significance and analogy between these bracelets
with the thyrsus of old. I was told by a very intelligent elder
that the figures graven on the reverse side of these armlets rep-
resented the male and female organs of generation, and the
armlet itself was of moon origin; and this was all I could de-
duce from them. But considering that the moon — Astaroth — ■
was the goddess of the Phcenicians, and many of the mercenary
soldiers who served the Phcjenicians were reputed to be of East
African origin, there seems some-
thing at least to investigate,
wherein a close student may
possibly draw some conclusive
analogy. Since ofl'ering this
idea, I have received from an ^^'^'^

American traveller a silver ring, presented to him by the late
King Ja-Ja, of Opobo, West Africa, representing, as he was told,
a shark's jaw, which is identical in shape with the East African
armlet, however, displaying no distinctive ornamentation device,
apart from a little rosette or flower form on the articulation of
the jaw, with no motive other than decoration; yet it is African.

With other tribes, they also have a great horror of insects
and all creeping things ; and there are constantly being met
many small vipers, puff adders, and a few pythons. One of
the porters of my own caravan was viciously bitten in the
foot by a viper, while cutting grass on the plain.

They detest rain falling upon their bodies, and use three or

236

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

four broad banana leaves spread out over their heads as arca-
dian umbrellas.

I found they were very eager to possess needles and reels of
bright-colored cotton thrcail, which I had liberall)- provided myself
with. They had never seen a thimble, and when I showed them
those I had brought with me, the)' exclaimed almost immediately,
"Finger hives," quick to recognize an analogy between the

thimble and their hives.
Then upon discovering
the little indentations,
the)' tiu'ned and said,
"They have had small-
po.x." Scissors and ra-
zors and claspd<;nives
they were delighted to
receive, and hand- mir-
rors. In this there was
quite a difference be-
tween tribes, for I found
some who considered
the possession of a mir-
ror as an ill omen, and
woidd retuse to receive
jnsKii:, ]]\K iNii.i;i>KF.TKR. them, or if in a moment

of temptation they had accepted one, lost no time in returning
it with some apt excuse.

I was taken to their bonias in sickness and in their joy, and

ON TO TAVETA.

237

although I found it most difficult to breathe witliin these chim-
neyless inclosures, with a fire always burning in the centre of
the room and their cattle stalled in one part, yet I never refused
to enter, in order to show them that I did not spurn becoming
acquainted with their habits and customs, and was most inter-
ested in everything they did.

238

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER XI.

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

LINTS of the daily existence of the arcadian
Wa-Taveta reveal many charming attri-
butes of character, so untrammelled, so
natural, that the town dwellers of other
countries can but sigh over their own
remo\al from a free pastoral life,
^. apart from the perpetual worry and
"u labor of money getting, or even bread
nning. Although the Taveta dam-
sels are very fine in figure, their faces are not so attractive
as some of the highland tribes. I came very near being
betrayed into supposing that certain scars upon their bodies
were the result of tattooing, but after close inspection found
that they resulted from cupping, which they resort to ior
their headaches and stomach difficulties ; in fact, no matter
what malad)- afflicts them, they are great blood letters, and
the simple methods the)- employ I adopted with great ser-
vice during my caravan clinic. After excoriating the surface
with a little knife or a piece of Hint or a piece of wire, they
place over it a gazelle horn, with the pointed end cut off,

a;
m

ARCADIAiN TAVETA. 239

when they apply suction by holding the horn, first wet, firmly
against the part to be cupped, and then drawing with their
lips the blood; and if the malady is serious, they make
several applications, on difterent places, drawing as much as
an ounce and a half of blood from the sufferer. Some
Taveta wives file their teeth ; however, this is not a tribal
custom with the Wa-Taveta, but it indicates that the women
who do so ha v e
been married from
other provinces, and
the casual observer is often

WA-IEITA SWEET GRASS NECKLACE.

misled in supposing it to

be such. They also often color their teeth, finger nails,
and palms of their hands and occasionally their faces
with a red stain procured from the dracaene or she-
dragon shrub ; but as a rule the pure-blood Tavetas keep
their teeth beautifully white and polished with tooth-sticks.
These tooth-sticks are cuttings from small branches of a
saponaceous shrub, and are al.so universally used by Arabs
and Swahali.

Caravans bring up froni the coast nutmegs, which are
disposed of to the natives by the porters as charms against
disease, and taken internally to allay fever ; they form one of
the important stock medicines every ncpara, or headman,
carries.

Natives eat as a medicine, as a condiment, and as a
stomachic great quantities of red peppers, which grow indi-

240

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

genously and abundantly. They are fond of raw plum
tomatoes, which I discovered to be delicious, and identical in
flavor to the cultivated tomato, perhaps a trifle more tart.
Ears of corn or maize are spiked about their fireplaces,
which consist of three stones canted inward so as to touch
at the top, or placed upright, under which the fire is built,
where they roast, bake, or boil the maize, which is most lus-
cious. They also eat maize raw, and so did we before too
ripe, when it is palatable and nutritious, full of sweet milky

VIEW OF KILIMANJARO.

juice which slakes the thirst. When they cannot obtain pure
salt, which tliey always crave, and is an appreciated article
of barter, they use chumvi-stone, which has a brackish, alka-
line flavor, and answers ver\^ well as a substitute. Salt is
found in great abundance in some of these highland districts,
according to good authority. Butter they churn by rolling
across their boma grounds or by shaking large calabashes, or
oblong wooden dug-out cylinders, like their honey boxes,
filled with milk. Rutter made of cow's milk is very white

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

241

and waxy in appearance, strongly
flavored with banana, for the,
cattle are fed during the rainy
season on banana leaves and the
fruit that is unfit to keep or
exceeds the native's wants. The taste
for this butter I fancy must be acquired
by a foreigner. They also make goat's
butter, called gee, oily, strongly fla\'ored,
erous as the goat itself. This product is
in the cookery of native gormands, and
caravans, but to my taste it was decidedly
Mutton obtained from sheep of the fat-
is very strong, as is also that of the
beef is more or less tough. The chickens,
enough called kii-kus, are very tiny and
tives frequently sell a hen that is laying,
viso that the eggs laid for four days, or
arrangement, should be theirs. It is a
custom to string these chickens upon the
by the cook's mate, with pots and pans,
pouch is kept fastened under the hen, so
on the march, the egg is preserved; and
make sure that the purchaser will not
seller, the latter sends some boy of the
the caravan three or four days, in order
product on the spot.

milk

and odorif-
used largely
adopted b }'
obnoxious,
tailed species
goats. The
ij strangely
sinew)'. Na-
with the pro-

acco

rdinc

ver)' quaint
pole carried
and a cloth
that if she lays
in order to
defraud the
li tribe to follow
to take the

242

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Africans all have a particular taste and decided prefer-
ence for rotten eggs. It has been often cited that as a
reward for some act of l<indness on the part of white men to
natives, that the women, under the guise of gratitude, have
brouo;ht as thank-offerinos, e^ors — rotten eCTgrs ! Could thev
do more ? Even then* gratitude has been impugned by
almost every explorer and traveller, simply because the

natives' expression of this senti-
ment is at variance with
the white man's concep-
tion of what it
should be. They
gave what they
valued most, yet this
has been attributed
to a mean trait of
deception in their
natures, which are
judged so utterly de-
void of gratitude. The
civilized man is, after all, a
thorough Procrustean, intol-
erant ot the natural diversities of human nature, unjust and
illiberal once he departs from the limitations of his own
studied environments. He deliberately makes his reason
impervious to new truths by a heterogeneous composite of
principles and his own accepted theories.

'lAVETA PEOPLE.

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

243

Domesticated and wild animals' hides they tan in a very
admirable and sometimes unique manner. They put aloe
juice upon the surface after having shaved off the hair, and
the hides are hung up or spread out to dry in the sun, first
carefully rasping from the inside all
the fat and fibre. To obtain
variety sometimes they cut or
shave the skins, leaving

BEBE BVVANA S CANVAS VILLA.

lozenge-shaped squares ^,. '

as decoration,

which are re- .yfeftvi ''

J'
lieved by the bare

patches. This
style is much affected by the " smart " cl-inoran. They also
make a species of chamois leather from goatskins, which they
soften by friction and working in a large amount of grease.
Domestic and wild animals yield them a large quantity of fat,
or as they call it iiiafiita, which is valued highly; and, with
a little instruction, they could soon be taught to make soap,
candles, and especially ointments, lor they much need medica-
ment for ulcers and wounds.

The cowhides and other hides are used for making loin-
cloths, and togas for men and women, and shields and little
three-cornered flaps which they sling across the dorsal part
ot the back, with no apparent purpose if not to brighten
and whet the edge of their knives upon, e.xcepting that of
decoration ; although some writers assume they are to sit

244 SUI.TAN TO SULTAN.

upon, — a thing impossible in tlie anatomical structure of those
whom I saw wearing the article. These they embellish with
little rows of delicate beads, and sometimes metal chains.
The lads carry wooden spears, artistically modelled after, in
fact a perfect counterfeit of, the fine IMasai metal weapons,
and these youths are always posing as prospective warriors.
They are e.xperts in the use of bows and arrows, shoot birds
and fish and at a mark in games of competition.

Men, women, and children are all equally good swimmers,
but use very little water to keep their persons clean ; in
truth, in some East African regions, they suppose the white
man's ablutions are part of a religious preparation before
prayer. They substitute, instead of water, grease, yet with all
of its nutritive and cleansing properties, by the aggregation
of the red clay they universally affect, the decomposition ot
the oil, never prime even when fresh, renders them rather
odorous, when stale it becomes foul and rancid.

Women shave their heads like the men, with the e.xcep-
tion that they often retain a small cushion or clump on the
crown, from which they allow to grow one or two long strands,
on which the)' string beads ; and even at times the)' strand in
little pigtails the entire unshaven clump of wool with beads.
The men frequently disport head-dresses made ot cows' or
calves' stomachs, stretched into shape upon their heads whilst
warm and pliant, soon after the animal has been slaughtered ;
these hang down over their shoulders from their foreheads,
completely covering their heads, and are variously garnished

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

with beads and delicate metal fringes and dangling diamond-
shaped or round glints of tin. The men are dandies of the
most effeminate order.

Most of the bead work is done by the men, and it is
not a rare sight to see an cl-nwran moving about in his
own or a friend's boma with a leather scabbard upon which
he works a glass bead or
namentation, or a wo
man's loin-cloth,
leather bracelet
belt, armlets,
anklets, for
some one
upon whom
he may
have
smiled, if
not, in fact,
for his lordship's
self. The regula-
tions ot conven-
tionality in the dif-
ferent regions seem to
be so set that various a quiet siesta in my palanquin.

shapes of beads lend a clannish caste to many ornaments and
personality to the panic of each tribe. An expert looks at an
approaching native, and at once he proclaims the newcomer

246 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

to be either "Rombo"; "Taveta"; " Kikoro " ; "Kiboso";
"Masai"; or "Kimangelia: aye, aye!" He seldom fails in
the speedy classification he denotes.

Apropos to this, a camp story was current to the effect
that Mandara, the Sultan ot Moschi, detected among his
women some Kiboso beads, the country of his dire enemy,
Sina, and forthwith accused them of infidelity, and of having
leagued against him, betraying his future plan of action to
his eneni)'. Forthwith he stripped them of their bawbles,
ducked them in the stream, daubed their heads with cow's
dung, and threw them as bait for prowling animals in the
forest, proscribing succor to them on penalty of similar
treatment to the violator of his command.

Certainl)- the Wa-Taveta are most extravagant if not even
luxurious in their love of decoration. Noticeably they, as
most of tlie Chaga tribes do also, wear great heavy pewter
armlets and leglets and necklaces, several at a time if they
are fortunate possessors of a number. All the women wear
a beaded belt of a set pattern, and those classed as the
wealthy disport quantities of various colored beaded fringes
as a cincture and fillets from which hang long strands of
Chaga metal beads, or chains of copper, iron, and brass.

Polygamy exists. It seems almost as a necessity more
than licentiousness, considering the environments. A man
accumulates more land or more cattle than his first wife
can attend ; he purchases another wife, and so on. The wives
are far from being jealous of each other ; in truth, are

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

24;

delighted to welcome a new wife, and make great prep-
arations for her. Each wife has her own hut, if indeed
not her own boma. She has control of her own plantations,
and has the supreme right to her children. Her moral
standard is exacth' the same as her husband's. A woman
is only declassed when she holds liaisons with porters
in a caravan or with the enemy of her husband. Marriage
is b)' purchase ; the wile is bought
from her parents b)' cows, land,
spears, etc.; then the marriage cere-
mony is consummated by capture.
Her marital aspirant, with four or
five ot his comrades, pursues her, and
after capture she is secluded four or '^
five days ; meanwhile the husband's
friends have been permitted certain
privileges before the husband claims
her. This is simply atrocious. The wedding feast is held
with great pomp and ceremony to every one but the bride,
who is secluded and presumably undergoing a preparatory
schooling in the hands of her husband's mother.

The established wives are full of merriment, and inter-
change many pleasantries with their lord and master, feeling
that their daily toil will be lightened.

Frequently the Woman of Taveta would bring a man or
woman to me and say, "This is my brother by m}' father,
but not the same mother," and "This is my sister by the

BEAD AND CHAIN
EMBBOIDERED LOIN-CLOTH.

2A8

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

cl-moran my mother lived with before she married," or
"This is my brother by the same father and the same
mother."

A Wa-Taveta elder, or nizia, requested me to visit the
infant of one of his new wives and take my dawa saudiiki

(medicine box) with me. I went
out the medicine, knowing that if
worse, or perchance died, I
be accused of black art,
possibly arouse the
retaliation which would
barrassment. Within
congregated other
the sick child.

with him with-
the child grew
naturally would
tabooed, and
natix'es to some
e.\pose me at least to em-
the arena of the boiua were
of his wives than the mother of
The infant was held in the
arms of his maternal
grandmother. A throng
s.NUFF-Box. ^'*^^^ ^ °f intimates were sitting

and standing about, who ^^^^ had flocked there as
much to see Bebe Bwana, as out of sympathy for the dis-
tressed parents, or to lend assistance.

The little one was a victim to a malignant form of dys-
entery, and I knew from the pallor of his visage that his
doom was irrevocably sealed. Mercy would ha\e dictated
that the sufferer should be comforted in every way, most
certainly not violently forced to take nauseous nostrums.
The parents were not of the same opinion, for they deter-
mined without delay to administer another dose to the

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

249

screaming, struggling cliild, who was on tlie verge of con-
vulsions in his wild efforts to resist his tormentors. Tears
suffused the mother's piteous eyes ; her stoicism evidently
was waning. The brave warrior father, seeing her falter,
came to the fore, addressed a few peremptory and not very
refined words to the grandmother, turned to me and .said,

NAllVli MAIL CARRIERS WITH DESPATCHKS lUUM HUiME.

" Bebe Bwana, this may make you sick ; it is not nice, but
it must be done."

Curiosity prompted me to protest that I did not object,
for I was in a quandary to know what he proposed to do.
The father took from his wife's hands a small gourd dish,
stepped to the fire, filled his hands with the white ashes
and mixed with a little water, thoroughly cleansed the

250 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

vessel, then smeared honey on Its edge, before putting
into it the medicinal decoction, wliich emitted very strong
herbaceous fumes ; lie held this to the child's lips to no
purpose ; despite the honey bait, the little one kicked and
struggled. However, the relentless father concluded that
the child must be overcome ; the time for coaxingf had
passed. At a glance from him, the grandmother grappled
the child and crushed him, plunging and yelling. Mat upon her
lap; two of the lookers-on clutched the little martyr's feet
and hands, and the grandmother pinched his nose between
the thumb and forefinger. I confess experiencing alarm
lest I should, by my presence, be aiding and abetting a
murder. The dusky father held the gourd to the self-
sacrificing grandmother's lips. She took, with real abnega-
tion, a large mouthful; it bulged her cheeks out. Ha! there
was to be some vicarious cure. No, no. The infant scion
of this African house of distinction must take his own physic.
Soon the grandmother, without relaxing her grip of the
child's nose, in order to force open his mouth, bent over
him, and after fixing her lips against his, as he gasped for
breath, scjuirted into his mouth, out of her own, the noxious
dose.

Of all medicinal processes, antl I have seen some strange
ones, 1 never witnessed any to equal this in novelt\- and
expedienc)', for the spluttering youngster had to swallow
the dose or be suflbcated on the instant.

The deed done, the panting child subsided; then fell

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

251

into a sleep of happy unconsciousness. No one seemed
touclied, even witli pity. One must naturally deduce that
there is no puerile nonsense among African families of
good standing.

Possibly the sequel to this may be of interest. The
child died.

Childhood's limit is very brief with the African children ;
in good truth, it seemed to me there were no real children

1.1 I.^Al \t

A FIRE DCRIMG A COl-li H.W.

after six or eight years of age. That is, they engaged in the
pursuits of, and mingled freely with, the adults, in so far as
their physical strength and adolescence would admit. They
seemed also to be perfectly acquainted with the existent rela-
tionships held by their seniors, even to the extent of passing

252

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

comments upon certain customs, and avowing their future
intentions to follow or abandon a similar course when they
should have become cl-moran (young man) or en-ditto (a
marriageable young woman). This fact comes from the
mediocre limitations of the native adult mind, hence the
liiiJ":.'.-' children's accession to the same is compar-
atively rapid, although I must disclaim
that it evinces precocity.

I heard a boy of about six
say to a little girl no more than
five years of age as he strode
about, facing her, while he flour-
ished his wooden spear, full of
pride and impetuosity: "When
1 shall be cl-inoran and thou
cti-ditto, I shall win and wear the
bearded collar, and thou wilt be my
w ife, aye ! Thou shall have more
BEARDED MASAI warrior's bcads than all of Endella's wives

COLLAR, WON WHEN TWELVE 1 I TVT

FOES HAVE BEEN KILLED. put together. I liavc spoken! Now
walk with me and show to m)' fellows how a sultana
should look." And the two midgets, with all the pom-
posity imaginable, made a circle round about the young
people gathered in the market place, to become the
object of merriment and joke, but good-naturedly they
gesticulated and returned the pleasantries of the different
groups, and seemingly had their own little fun and glory
by thus emphasizing their rosy prospects.

ARCADIAN TAVETA. 253

This bearded collar is worn by the Masai warrior who
has twelve times " plunged to the heart of twelve foes his
spear." Hence the ambitious, bellicose youngster proffered
to his young Dulcinea no mean outlook, if his boast met
with realization.

Throughout the section of East Africa I journeyed, I
was in a constant state of wonderment over the happy,
merry dispositions of the children, full of song and sport,
like arboreal sprites. The region can well be called, as is
Japan, the Paradise of Children.
Archery clubs are formed among the
youngsters and under the command of
a leader, selected, or who asserts himself,
because of his skill. They practise .shoot- '^laid g urd.
ing at a mark, and vie with one another with a pardonable
zest. They participate in games of running, become com-
petitors in swimming, diving, and dancing. In imitation
of adult blacksmiths, they make wooden spears, the precise
counterfeits of the metal ones. They are venders of all
sorts of produce at the markets, especially of chickens
and eggs.

Soon as they attain an age and have strength to en-
dure journeys, they are sent as couriers, and, when expe-
rienced, as guides. Their early exi.stence is spent in a per-
petual sort of rudimentary kindergarten and their education
is acquired by observation, imitation, and object lessons.
Like all aborigines, and animals, left to their own re-

254 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

sources, they are constantly on the alert, more or less
wary, even to a degree of suspicion. In their primitive
condition they affect the mannerisms, adopt the customs,
and aspire to the estate ot their seniors, as have and
do the children of all nations.

The fact of the natives' simplicity, despite their detract-
ors, fills me with an abiding hope that if at the outset these
particular, amiable, and amenable tribes of East Africa have
sagacious, peaceful, fair treatment, and their natures are en-
^ larged and they are led at a gradual pace to accept the
ways of civilization, there is much to hope for in their
intellectual unfoldment. Every move, every gesture, every
word, is scrutinized by these natives, and this habit of con-
centration imparts a contemplative seriousness which char-
acterizes the expression of their eyes. Strange, too, a
traveller among them soon takes on the same e.xpression,
in the endeavor to fully interpret the natives' eloquent
sign language, with which they vivify and supplement
their circumscribed vocal utterances. With a vocab-
ulary of two hundretl and fifty Swahali words it has been
affirmed that an observing person could travel, with a
dialect interpreter, all over Africa. As Emerson has truly
written : —

"The eyes of men converse as much as their tongues,
with the advantage that the ocular dialect needs no dic-
ti<)nar\', but is understood all the world over."

WAKKIUK'.S

spiiAK. Several ostriches belonging to the officer of the English

X
'J

ARCADIAN TA\-ETA. 255

post flourished at Taveta, to the natives' great annoyance.
Apparently the natives never became used to them, although
they saw them dozens of times during the day, as they
passed through the bonia bent on work
or pleasure. If the gawky birds flapped
their wings or made a rush, they would
scatter, yelling, and striving to make a
speedy exit, in clamorous terror. These
birds with the iamous stomachs would

CATHERINE WHEEL

swallow with impunity cartridges, old double trass ear-ring.
shoes, and all sorts of rubbish tendered them. An ostrich
breeding farm could be advantageously maintained there-
abouts, and stocked from the wild birds that haunt the
countr)' in great flocks. We encountered a number whilst
on the march.

They dry fish and jerk beef, which they cure by hanging
in their huts, e.xposed freely to the smoke of their fires.
Everything they possess, even their bodies and hair, smell
strongly of smoke.

An elder of imexcelled intelligence and standing among
his tribe told me that the fires were never allowed to go out;
that is, in the village ; a single family fire might become ex-
tinct, but this could be resupplied or reignited by getting a
blazing fagot from some friend's fire. But in the history of the
tribe, as far as he knew, the)' had always vigilantly preserved
the fire, as doubtless did their prehistoric ancestors. On a
march or when hunting or visiting from tribe to tribe, they carry

^56

SULTAN TO SUl.TAN.

with them fire-sticks, which they deftly use by twirling rapidly
in the hollow of a bit of hard wood in which is placed dried
fibre until the friction. They also are acquainted with the
use of flint, and by scraping the fibre from the viwliala or
other fibrous trees they make a pulp which is quite as in-
flammable as tow.

^^ 1

7>-^X.

»■>>.

,, ,S.

tS*"

A FUTURE WARRUlR.

The children are very skillul in the use of bows and
arrows, and when I presented them with fish-hooks and
lines, to please me they would use them at the end of a
reed pole ; but no sooner was m)- back turned than they
would resume their old practice of obtaining fish by shoot-
ing them with wooden arrows in the water, or by using
weirs.

ARCADIAN TAVETA. 257

Taveta's grand forest as well as its mountain, and its
reatl)' access to the plain, or hara, give the Wa-Taveta ample
security from invaders and scope for their plantations and
orass land for fodder for their stall-fed cattle, making theirs
almost an independent province ; and altliough it is said they
are of Masai origin, they are so gentle, pastoral, and peace-
loving I could but doubt the supposition, always going back
to the fact that their environment showed a long line ot an-
tecedents of like ilk. During the period of my sojourn in
East Africa there was considerable friction between the young
dandies, or cl-inoraii, and the elders, in Taveta, on the matter
of lumgo, or tribute exacted trom caravans passing through
their country. This has been abolished by the English gov-
ernment throughout in their protectorate, also by the Germans
in theirs, but it is evaded in an ingenious manner by the
natives, -who impress the newcomer with the Idea that
they will receive certain advantages and suret}' from moles-
tations in giving them presents ; and in former days the
elders received this toll, and made distribution as it suited
them. Now the young men personall)' desire to receive
this tribute, whenever they are able to e.xact it, and they are
continually holding palavers between themselves to determine
what effectual course to pursue. However, this exaction
must be short-lived ; the government will doubtless succeed
in totally abolishing it as an imposition and an indignity.
However, I did not pay Iioiigo to any tribe during m)'
safari. When approached respecting this, I said, " I am jour

258 SUl.TAN TO SUl.TAN.

guest ; I am as a white queen coming to you. Would you
ask lioneo of the sultan of such and such a tribe should he
visit you?" and it successfully relieved me from further parley
or exaction.

They are very tenacious as to the qLiality of the cloths
the)- receive ; and although they are verj' much attracted by
bright colors, you will see them take a piece ot cloth and
hold it up to the light, to test its texture, and if it is too
thin they do not want it ; and the old habit of forcing upon
the native any trash as good enough for the negro, at least
in East Africa, does not at present answer.

They are kind to their children ; however, I found no
children in act or intention in any tribe I \isited in East Africa,
after the age of six ; they were little men and little women,
who, of their own accord, daily trudged to the noonday market
with a load upon their heads, happy and delighted to be in
the swim with their parents ; and the only child I heard cry
during my expedition, who was not an ill bab)', was a little
one who was restrained from going to market, and he
howled, and kicked, and yelled in such a fashion, alarmed, 1
paused to inquire the cause of his uproarious distress.

The utter freedom with which the men and women mix
together, and the homely intercourse between parents and
children, reveal a trait of their social life that is most eenial
and certainly not looked for. Possibly this leads to a certain
amount ot familiarit)' with matters and things in ci\'ilization
removed from the knowledge of the youth and the maid;

ARCADIAN TAVETA.

259

but then one must admit that natives are naturals, and that
ignorance with them concerning natural things is as much of
a crime as innocence is a virtue in civilization. Although
they are not purists by any manner of means, let me sa)' I
savi^ in Taveta no manifestation of licentiousness, excepting
the matter of their dances. In talking with them as to the
English occupancy in their country and the benefits to
accrue therefrom, they would answer rather dubiously, " Aie,
aie ; yoh, yoh," and I fain discovered a tinge of regret, and
in their hearts I believe they would be content to go on in
their happy, pastoral wa)', without bothering their brains
about education, government, and all the confusing principles
of civilization. They live to enjoy, and enjoy to live, and
are as idyllic in their native waj-s as any people I ever
encountered.

26o

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER XII.

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CHALA.

^jpt. HILST thti majority of my
JjvM- caravan were busy stringing
barter beads for poslio at Ta-
veta, I sought the opportunity
ot starting" on a little tour. .Ac-
companied by the resident Eng-
ih officer, Mr. Anstruther, but at
y own expense exclusively, with
my own selected corps of fifty porters,
solely as m\' own prixate expedition,
the last ot .\pril, 1S91, I made my first visit to the crater
Lake Chala, and descended to the water's edge. Under
the .same circumstances, en route to Kimangelia, a fortnight
later, with my entire caravan, we returned, and on May g,
1891, circumna\igatcd this lake. Through the courtesy of
the Germans, Mr. .\. was the lortimate possessor ot two
sections of a copper pontoon, which were the original prop-
erty ot Count Teleke, and abandoned by him as cumbersome
iinpcclhiicnla. These were conveyed between ten and twelve

CIRCUiMNAVKiATION OK LAKE CHALA.

261

miles on the shoulders of ni)- porters, the distance from
Taveta to Lake Chala, in order to make the venture.

I feel prompted to offer an explicit statement of certain
facts, to exonerate Mr. Anstruther from criticism of having- in

l.AKK (JHALA.

SOU'I HWKSTF.RN VIEW.

an)' way violated the covenants of his legal and moral f)bli-
gations imder his iron-clad official commission with the Ibea
Compan) .

Finally, it will be well to state that absolutely in no in-
stance was m\' rule and order of command relinquished to

262 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

any temporary guest or friendly escort iluring m\' entire ex-
pedition, nor in any way have I to acknowledge the success-
ful carrying forward or completion of my expedition to the
auspices or patronage of an\' European resident in East
Africa, however grateful I may be for certain courtesies. At
this period I owe to Dr. Baxter, formerly of Moschi, hearty
thanks for surgical care given to my eye, and tor the medical
supervision he bestowed upon the unfortunate fever-stricken
invalid of the caravan. Every time a white man chanced to be
with us, my porters were discontented and at times positively
sullen ; they seemed somewhat apprehensive lest the white
men might be installed in my place as leader. Like children
they would tlock about me to express their delight over the
departure of a guest. This spirit of displeasure was likewi.se
evinced by many natives, who seemed to have a latent sus-
picion that the white man would make some demands upon
them, or might be desirous of subjugating them, or fighting
with them. .So it was proved disadvantageous for me to
entertain or to be joined, when on the march, b;,' white men,
no matter who they might be.

Leaving Taveta during a great downpour about three r. m.,
the ten or twelve miles' march was a great hardship to all
of the men, who were more or less demoralized and out of
condition in consequence of the long encampment. Night
overtook those who were in tlie rear, and after delays and
tumbles into animal pits, tliose belated straggled in camp at
all hours until after davlight. Wood for fuel was scarce, as

CTRri'MNAVICATION OF LAKE CHAI.A. 263

there was nothing growing immediately about the ston)' place
of our encampment, close beside the rim of the lake, but
thorn-bushes, and the rain had soaked everything. It was a
night of discomfort ami anxiety, for we were in the immediate
haunts ot wild animals and the so-called fierce Rombos.

The gradual ascent from Taveta to the rim of th(- crater
lake on the western side is only a little above the level of
the plain, and on the southwestern end there are abrupt
peaks two himdred to four hundred feet high ; the level of
the water, as shown by our aneroid, attained a level of one
hundred and ninety-five feet below the encampment, and
about tour hundred and forty-seven feet above Taveta. And
the temperature of the water near the surface was only one
and one half degrees lower than the atmosphere registration.
The lake is near the western side of the stream Mfuro, or,
in the Masai lano^uagfe, Naromosha, but accordin"' to some
travellers misnamed the Lumi. We find Lake Chala north
ol Taveta on the northeastern side oi Kilimanjaro, about
3'-"' 22' south latitude, 37° 17' east longitude, over three
thousand feet abo\-e the sea level.

The crater's crest rises above the surface of the lake
eight hundred feet at its highest point, and at its lowest two
hundred and fifty feet. The lake, roughly estimated, is two
and one half miles across at its widest point, and from si.x
and a halt to eight miles in circumference. It is environed
by massive blocks ot perpendicular rough rocks, which e.xtend
like a subterranean wall far beneath the level of the water.

264 SUI.TAN TO SULTAX.

Interminable vines and thickl\- gnnvn forest trees present a
forbidding appearance on all sides.

The late missionar\' New \vas the first white person to give
an account of this lake and ot his difficult descent to the
water's edge in 1S71. Ho\ve\'er, the explorer Thompson
writes of this lake with reference to its inaccessibility: "1
went all around it; and although I am not deficient in enter-
prise or nerve, I saw no place that I dared descend, not even
if I could ha\'e swung trom creeper to creeper like a monkey."

.Standing on the crest of the rim of this crater, looking
down upon tlie cr\stal water which was cupped therein, at
first 1 \vas well impressed with the impossibility of descending
to the water's edge, unless some means could be devised as
a substitute for fl\ ing. Nevertheless, on the assurance of Mr.
A. of Ta\'eta, who had some months pre\-iously descended to
the lake edge, nothing tlaunted, 1 determined to make the
venture. There was a Aveirtl attractiveness overhanging tliis
place that overawetl even the natives. All accounts I could
glean about it were so vague that I wanted to taste ot the
forbitlden irult m\sell. With an ach'ance guard of onh" two
men, alone, for Mr. A. remained at the top to direct the
pontoon bearers, I fouml myself attempting to j)enetrate
through a girdle of primexal forest trees, tossed, as it were,
b\' some \-olcanic action against the rock base, and seemingly
as impenetrable as any stockade. With bill-hooks and knixcs
they cleared a slight opening through which I managed to
squeeze, on emerging to fintl mjself standing on a bowlder,

CIKCl'MXAXK. \IIoN I )F LAKE CHALA.

265

\vhicli was balancetl upon another bowlder, antl ever)' mo-
ment's tarriance seemed U> imperil m\' ecjuilibrium ; antl as I
dared to Aentiire on other uncertain surlaces which presented
a footin;^-, it n'ljuired cat-like ag'ilit\" to crawl or slide down,

LAKE CHALA. NORTHF.ASTF.RN VIEW.

sometimes landing' in a bed of lea\'es, which must have been
the accumulations of centuries, and into which I lre(}uentl\'
.sank up to m)- armpits, and had to be hauled out b\' niain
force by m\' men; and then bv clinoim'' and clutching to the
branches of overhanging trees, after great eftort and consid-

266 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

erable peril, succeeded in laboriously attainintr some odier
foothold, step by step advancing, again and again to be
opposed by gigantic trunks of trees, which, lightning-smitten,
had fallen as a barricade, or through some potent eruptive
force had been uprooted and turned themselves top down in
solemn humiliation. .Anon, a bowlder, loosened from its scant
earth)- holdings, would come crashing matlly down from the
top and shiver into fragments the white skeletons of these
trees. The weirdness of the scene was intensified by the
strange whirring of birds frightened unceremoniously from
their hitherto undesecrated homes, and the whisking ot myr-
iads of monkeys as the)' leaped from branch to branch with-
out emitting a chatter in their fright. A whistling eagle beat
the air with its wings directly over my head, scattering its
feathers like storm-flawn flowers in its wild flight, and white-
hooded owls peered out from sequestered nooks and twoo-
hooed in solemn amazement. The e.vtreme sheerness of the
rocks made the descent hazardous, tortuous, and very tedious.
Constantly obliged to turn back on my path, searching and
groping, creeping on my hands and knees through tangles ot
interwoven tissues of rubber-vines, and so was compelled to
cautiousl)- feel with m\- feet, and be content with the greatest
slowness. The danger attending e\-er)- movement and the
spectral weirdness of the place inspired me and even affected
my men with awe. M)' advance guard woidtl sometimes
whisper words of warning, afraid to utter a sound, and e.x-
tended his hand (jr arm to prevent my plunging headlong to

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CHALA. 267

thi! bottom. All this filled me with an excitement and imparted
fresh courage, anci re-enforced my determination to overcome
the difficulties of the uncann\- spot, cost what it might, so
long as 1 shoukl be able to climb, or crawl, or slide, or step,
or simply let myself go with utter blindness, and risk the
incumbent results; for the goal bewitched me in anticipation.
Through gaps in the massed trees, through which
the sun could scarcely filter, the arboreal darkness was
pierced b}- a radiant gleam of light, and the flashing lake
greeted my e.xpectant eyes. There arose a general shout
from the men, "Chala!" " Chala ! " and behold! I found my-
self rewarded by being upon a rugged, rough tangle of
prostrate trees and wild tumble of white and gray rocks,
whilst the limpid, restless waters were laughing and dashing
themselves into a jubilant foam at my feet. The scene was
one of which I became enamoured. It was truly overcast
with a sublime sense of a holy sanctuary. Losing myself in
the spectacle, I forgot that Mr. A. and porters, with the two
sections of pontoons we had taken the precaution to bring,
were waiting eagerly for me to give the signal agreed upon
when once I should be safe at the bottom on the lake
shore. After a moment's revery, recovering myself, I
sounded the whistle. Then the deafening crash and )ell and
rush commenced, as the porters struggled valorously with
their precious burden down the narrow, serpentine, rugged
figment of a path, which we in the van had essayed to
make.

268 SULTAN TO SUI.TAN.

The marvellous ingenuity whh which these porters manoeu-
vred their metal loads, and the stoical way, when they would
slip and their burden fall upon their shoulders, and cruelly
dig out chunks of flesh, the blood trickling from their wounds,
they would struggle to their feet and go on without com-
plaint, called forth from their comrades screams of applause,
whilst the leaders sung a wild, weird strain full of rhythm, just
as we find men who are moving heavy loads always instinc-
tively do in order to keep time with each other's movements.

Finally the two copper sections of the pontoon were in
the water. The)' were immediatel)' e.xamined to see if there
had been any puncture made through the thin metal sides
in their difficult transit. They were scarcely large enough,
when lashed together and covered with a vizvhala door,
which had been converted into a platform, to hold
m\self and men, and presented to the onlooker a most un-
safe maritime structure. The moment came to embark, and
on demanding, "Where are the men who are to accompany
us?" not one would respond ior the first excursion; subse-
quently Joseie and a headman were perfectl)' willing if not eager
to distinguish themselves by going. Pre.sently they murmured
amonp- themselves, " No, no ; we will not eo on Devil's
water. Just see the crocodiles, and hear the monkeys, and
look at the breath of the devil. luslialla (God willing), we
will remain with our feet under us on shore," as they
pointeLl to the water which was in some considerable com-
motion, revealing here and there its amphibious denizens.

CIRCUMNAVIGAriON OF LAKE CHAI.A. 269

After going through tlie usual process ot calling them
goats, and cowards, and jungle-men, m\' interpreter, [osele,
who was somewhat of a darede\il, and ready for an adven-
ture, stepped torwanl, saluted me, antl saitl (juite gallantly,
" Bebe Bwana, at your service." So Mr. A., Josefe, and
myself, with our giuis and photographic instruments, em-
barked upon the bobbing pontoon with two long improviseil
paddles. We pushed carefully out from the shore, amid the
shouts ot the bewildered porters, who eagerly watched the
performance, fully persuaded in their own minds that it must
end disastrously, having taken the precaution to attach a
haw.ser several hundred feet in length to the uncouth craft
in case of accident. The crocodiles were very curious, not
knowing w-hat to make o( the invasion of their haunt, and
came in close proximity to our uderpinnings, as with one
paddle I man(cuvreil to guide the craft and Josefe awkwardly
propelled with the other, whilst my guest kept a sharp look-
out for the obtrusive aquatic creatures. After moving the
lencrth of the hawser, we found the craft was manageable, and
cut loose, to the horror ol the men grouped on the rocks.

At ever)- turn there arose from the midst of the crater
forest great flocks of birds, which had all the appearance of
being ducks, but which have since been named by the late
Mr. Bates, Plialacrocorax Africauus and Phalacrocorax carho,
a species of cormorant but edible. They cawed and screamed
and whirred about, making a great commotion, and, u[)on our
ajDproach, would dive into the water, when the crocodiles

270 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

would immediately give them chase, which was obvious on
account of the extreme limpidness of the lake. I was enabled
to bring back several specimens, shot from my craft on the
lake, as well as a specimen of monkey which has as yet not
been named.

Gazing up at the steep cliffs on all sides, the vines hang-
ing In theatrical festoons, and the weird, weird beauty of the

various foliaije contrasting- with

the grand trunks of whited

trees, the strange murmur

of the waters, the remarkable out-

PHALACROCORAX "£>■

AFRicANus. _»w»»*^ break of waves crested with foam, the

small circle of sky as I looked up, and the mad tumble of
rocks, all contributed to make it seem as though I was in
some phantom land.

Everything was most eldritch and immense. At the firing
of a gun the reverberations came back like a thunder-clap —
sharp, crashing. I should not have been surprised to have
seen the whole lake covered with some imcanny creatures, or
to have seen the apparition of some mammoth forest king
issue forth and assert himself as monarch of all we surveyed,
and crush us out of existence as invaders. The hours spent
upon this lake at different times held me in a thraldom of
wonder. There was little said, very much thought, and
imagination thrilled my brain with the ineffable pleasure
which 1 had craved and sought for years, of being the first to
visit a place undefiled by the presence of man before.

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CHALA. 27 1

The thing which surprised me most was the fact that when
I pkinged my paddle two or three feet imder the water at
various points, the suction was so great it would be drawn
away from me, and only with difficulty could I recover it and
resume control ; and at other points it would be drawn beneath
the float, and again I would have to tug lustily to pull it
back. At the same time the entire lake was in agitation ; it
was bubbling almost like a hot spring, and yet there was no
rift in the rim of the crest through which currents of wind
could sweep down and cause this commotion.
After trying to make a sounding with a
plummet and line ol two hundred and^^
fifty feet, without success, I determined that it

PHALACROCORAX

was the reservoir for the meltings of the snow carbo.

from Kilimanjaro, and that these under-currents and counter-
currents were due to subterranean in-takes and outlets, and that
this body of water fed the streams of the plains, and was a water-
shed subsidiary to Kibo and Alawenzi. Another remarkable
thing, although the dashing of the water at different times must
have reached a greater height than its level when I was afloat
thereon, as shown by the moisture upon the boundary rocks, they
were unstained by decayed vegetation and uncolored by mineral
deposit. It was perfectly clear and clean, as evidenced by
the specimens of rock I took the pains to bring home for
analysis. The water to the taste was not disagreeable, but
was sott and sweet, a trifle warm, 72°, whereas the atmospheric
mean temperature was 74°. As we cast about the margin of

272

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

this lake, with its seductive little insects making unrevealed
bays, until one was fairly upon the turn of the margin, it was so
exquisite and beautiful ! and as far as the water scene and the
surrounding forest of vegetation, I could scarcely believe it pos-
sible such beauty could be encompassed within the precincts of
the crater lake, nor have I ever heard or read of a parallel crater.
Although this is doubtless one of the last evidences of a
volcanic eruption in this region, it has survived the memory
of the people. The fabulous tradition concerning it is that

KILIMANJARO.

when the sun sank into the mouth of Mawenzi, the Masai
village which was located upon the site of the lake when Chala
was a mountain was tossed into the air, and crreat rush of
water rose, filling up the .space and making the present lake,
and hatl swallowetl the i)eop]e ; and that the strange murmur,
which is almost unaccountable, is caused by the spirits of those
unhappy wretches, and the soughing of the trees is the lowing
of the cattle and bleating of the sheep, and the clapping of the

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CIIALA. 273

reeds is the cackling of the fowl. Another version of this
tradition is that the people of the Ma?ai village that was once
located here had committed so many depredations against
other tribes, became arrogant and ungrateful, and refused to
pay tribute for years to Kibo and Mawenzi ; so the angry God
of the Mountains inundated their village, and swept them far
away out of existence.

"What length of far-famed ages, billowed high
\\'ith human agitation, roll along
In unsubstantial images of air !"

Capt. Sir John C. Willoughby says : " Making a slight
detour, by climbing the lower slopes of Kilimanjaro, which
enabled us to visit the curious Lake Cala [Chala], no
sooner had we ascended the low hills encircling its eastern
shore than we were rewarded b)- a glorious view. At least a
thousand feet below us nestled the lovely lake, somewhat
triangular in shape, and from one to two and a half miles in
its widest diameter, completely embedded among hills and
cliffs, — a basin in which the great Masai Mountain God could
always wash his hands. From our position its shores appeared
inaccessible, but the natives declared a descent was practi-
cable." Notwithstanding this statement, I was not enabled to
find that any of my porters had heard of any one descending
to the surface of the lake, or to meet any native who had gone
to the water's edee or who could be induced to descend "
thereto ; and instead of being the subject of curiosity, which
I had apprehended and was desirous to avoid, when the natives

2 74 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

knew I intended to descend, and witnessed my preparations,
they flew back, terror stricken, into their mountain villages, and
not one intrusive eye would gaze upon the white woman on the
Devil's water.

Bewitched by Lake Chala, I made several descents at
different times, and floated my little American flag from the
pontoon craft during its circumnavigation. To facilitate matters
at some future day, when I hoped to return, the historic little
craft named for me was buried in a bed of leaves, and I re-
tained a key describing its secret hiding-place. Several slabs
loom up at various intersections of the lake margin, defiled by
red paint, which emblazon my name and the date of this exploit.

Having completed for the time being my explorations of
Lake Chala, I turned my attention to the people who inhabit
that section of Africa.

My ears had been filled with warning as to the hostilities
of the Rombos, consisting, in four or five provincial divisions,
of a tribe known respectively under the names of Rombo,
Rombo Chini, Rombo of the Bara, Rombo Colis, inhabiting
the plain and hills between Lake Chala and Kilimanjaro ; so
with justifiable precaution my men were well armed, albeit I
was fully determined, unless the most desperate events should
compel defence, under no pretext to use firearms, and had
impressed this upon my porters before making the venture,
giving strict orders to my headman to punish any porter
severely who violated my command, and under no circumstances
to fire at natives, or even the wild animals haunting this region,^

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CHALA. 2/5

without word of command from either myself or himself. My
first impression of the physical aspect of their domain environ-
ing Lake Chala was most inauspicious, presenting great gloomy
hill slopes, with basaltic formation and rotted lava stones inter-
spersed with thorn-bushes, although overshadowed by the majes-
tic twin peaks of Kilimanjaro, — snow-capped Kibo, crenelated
Mawenzi, — which certainly lent a scenic splendor to the horizon.
The plantations, which are unquestionably fertile, were so far re-
moved from my line of march that they were scarcely discernible.
A succession of animal pits ranged immediately below the
point where we were to encamp, which were set by the Rombo

ROlMBO SPEAR.

people, who are trap hunters rather than hunters of chase.
The curious construction of these animal pits is worthy a
word. The Rombos and other native trap hunters dig a pit
of about four feet wide, six to ten feet longf, si.\ to eigfht or
ten feet deep. This is covered over with brush, and presents
no appearance of a trap to the casual eye. They are spaced
at the distance of say a foot between, ten or twelve in a row,
so as to intersect a path to a water course or water pool.
These traps are baited or not, and the Rombos beat the bush
and jungle thereabouts, and drive the animals who are seeking
water or prowling for food into them, and afterwards kill
their prey with spears or arrows. However, they frequently
leave the traps undisturbed, and withdraw to their hillside

276 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

bomas, and await the chance of the animals straying unto-
wardly into them. These are used for elephants, lions, and all
other big game. Mischief not infrequently befalls an unwary
traveller or a caravan passing through the country during the
night, who may fall into these pits and become seriously
injured; and there are credible accounts that men have tum-
bled into the very jaws of lions which had already become
victims. Another method ot making a trap, especially for
elephants, is by excavating a large pit on the usual caravan
route, covered with an ingenious intertwining of vines, upon
the top of which is placed a covering of sod and sand, to all
appearances no different from the rest of the path. These
are excessively dangerous, because interspersed beneath the
outer covering are sharp spikes, made of tusks or spear-heads,
or even giant thorns, to step upon which is most injurious
and painful. These are incidental disadvantages to pleasant
promenades, and can be warded against b)' the judicious em-
ployment of native guides, when one desires to jaass through
regions known to be habited by natix'e hunters.

To reiterate, the Rombos living in this region have ever
been deemed a very ferocious people, tricky in their dealings
with other natives, and the marauders of passing caravans.
Some of their villages have been closed even against the
Arabs, and they bring their products to barter down upon the
hara, or plain, rather than admit strangers into their kraals.
With the warnings which I had received, I felt imbued with
a sense of precaution and unwillingness to enter their villages

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CIIALA.

277

until I could decide from their manifest attitude
likelihood of their looting my caravan
and probably murdering me. He
ever, after being beset with ear
nestness by the prime minister ot
one of the sultans, I concluded
to go and see for myself; and
at an hour when the men were
all resting and I could safely
leave the camp without obser-
vation, I selected four of m\
most trusty headmen and an
interpreter, and visited one of
the Rombo villages, to find the
delighted people most civil, and
eager to do Bebe Bwana hom-
age. They were neither un-
couth nor unkind nor ungen-
erous, and certainly far from
being hostile. They loaded me
with gifts of beautiful furs and
such other of their worldly pos-
sessions that I chanced to
admire. Although, with few
exceptions, men, women, and
children were in an absolute, state
of nudity, the men carr>-ing shields romb^

as to

BO SHIELD. OUTSIDE.

278

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

made of hippopotamus hide three feet long and a foot wide,
bossed and with pressed designs, they brandished spears, the
blade end not a foot loner and narrow, carried bows and arrows,
their deportment was as manly as one would naturally expect
from civilized people. When they were presented b}- me with
cloth (and this I wish to explain fully, because I have been very
much misquoted on the subject), they looked about and saw in
what manner my porters were bedecked. However, instead of
putting their cloth on from a sense of prudery or
''^ shame, they were as likely to hang a piece of four
or five yards trailing from their shoulder, or try
to twist it about their heads as a turban, or
tie it on to their arm or leg, as much so as
they were disposed to use it as loin-cloths
or surround their bodies. The idea which
evidently prevailed with them, as in lact it
I does the world over, was simply to follow
i .1 fashion, and to imitate what they thought
was fine in some one else. They have no
consciousness of their nakedness. They
bore themselves with so much dignity, and
1 o-rew to regard their color as abundant
ROMBo sHiKi.ii. INSIDE, clothing for them in their primitive simpli-
city. Truly they were clothed with io^-a virilis, a robe
of manhood unfashioned by any mode of civilization, but
inborn.

In passing, as an illustration of the effect of superstition

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CHALA. 279

upon these people, which reduces them to a timorous, suspi-
cious state, the following may be interesting.

By the suggestion of a man who had gone from coast to
coast of Africa, subsequently spending a year in East Africa,
holding a position which should have given hini full insight,
one would suppose, into the habits and tastes of the natives,
and who should have known what would have .^s?
amused them, I took a dozen bright feather toy
birds, which, by means of a rubber bulb and x^ t,.,. — -v-
tube, are made to hop about with great anima- toy bird.
tion. The dull day came when, quite at my wit's ends to amuse
some visitors from one of the tribes of Rombo, suddenly I recol-
lected the birds. The case containing them was opened, and
with great flourish I wound up my music box and set the birds
to gambol before the wide-open-eyed guests, as they squatted
expectant on their heels around my tent.

Presto ! in two seconds that robust vision of dusky war-
riors, yelling at the top of their voices, presented nothing
but heels. They ran like the rushing wind, terrified by the
innocent toys, and as il pursued by his Satanic majesty.

The next morning, through the prime minister of the
tribe, they indignantly requested us to leave their sultanate.
Unwittingl)' I had actually betrayed my entire caravan to
imminent peril, as the performance was looked upon as
black art.

Nothing more of these natives was seen ; and after
exhausting every resource in my efforts to induce them to

2 8o

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

return and accept of our amity, they persistently refused, and
I was unable to procure food for my men. This threw us
into a very sorry dilemma ; for we were quite depending
upon reprovisioning the caravan at this village, for food was
scarce and cattle d)ing off rapidly several marches beyond
this point of our journc\-.

HOSTILE ROMBOS.

Having to submit to the folly of my experiment, so inno-
cently made, it opened up a new field of consideration as to
a characteristic in their nature of which I had previously
been entirely ignorant.

This recalls another incident which shows the importance
of striving to understand the peculiar characteristics of
different tribes, in order to know what impression they are
likely to receive when experimented upon.

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OK LAKE CIIALA.

281

ROMBOS. VICTIMS OF GERMAN GUNS.

282 SULTAN TO SUI.TAN.

Observing a bevy of young warriors and girls hovering
about one of my tents, I took a hand-mirror and through
the ventilator of my personal tent, unseen by them, I caught
the sun's rays and threw the reflection upon the group,
never for a moment thinking of the cross-lacing in front ot
the opening. This made the reflection fall in checkers or
squares. An instant sufficed. They scrambled pellmell
away, thinking it was a devil's tattoo that I was directing
against them, to enslave or put them under a magic spell.

In connection with this I must add, these little traits of
character, based upon superstition, are like stepping-stones
to the index of their character ; and one who is careless in
the study of what may on the surface appear to be frivolous
and unimportant, will miss the finest points in the individu-
ality of any people.

Whereas these natives, with the cited exception, treated
me with so much courtesy and gentleness, I still recall the
circumstance which has been blazoned throughout the world,
that when six weeks after I had safely traversed that coun-
try as a lone woman, the celebrated Dr. Carl Peters, in
order to pass safely with himself and armed soldiers through
this district, felt obliged to turn his guns on these Rombos,
armed in their simple fashion, and kill a hundred and twenty
before breakfast one morning. It makes one's blood boil
with indignation ! This, then, is how Germany proposes to
civilize and colonize Africa.

I am constrained to say either there must have been some

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF LAKE CHALA. 283

peculiar power vested in me of a quality almost superhuman
to have enabled me to subdue these so-called hostile
Rombos, or else Dr. Peters's methods are simply brutal,
atrocious, and unnecessary.

This distinguished man reveals his belief in despotic
measures throughout Africa. The following citation from his
" New Light on Dark Africa," respecting his manner of pro-
ceeding in Uganda, is a satire on the title: "As I well knew
that in case of possible Arab enterprise I should have to rely
principally on moral impressions, I had taken care that our
reputation should precede us, and had been careful, above all,
to bring with me from Usoga a band of war drums, which should
send the signal of war resounding before us over the far-
spreading heights. Three drums tuned in fifths on which the
roll was beaten, and the bigf drum coming in between, the
whole produced a solemn and threatening effect."

If an alien provokes by coercive measures the native in his
own land and develops all of the worst propensities latent in his
nature, it is not fair to lay the blame upon the poor untutored
native and call him " savage."

>S4

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER XI 11.

VULCANS OF CHAGA.

ULCANS, fiiiidis, or craftsmen in
metal work, have attained a great
degree of skill and perfection
,. througliout Cha^a land. The re-

\ i ( 1/ nowned blacksmiths all have been
[i]"/ or are celebrated chiefs or sultans,
whose deftness In the forging of
spears, knives, pipes, agricultural imple-
ments, tools, bells and most delicate little charms, necklaces,
armlets and leglets, as well as various metal ornaments, has
given them a distinctive prestige in other spheres of tribal
significance.

Mireali of Marungu, and Mandara of MoschI, have held
their own, generally speaking, with the belligerent Masai in
consideration of the fact that, although great warriors, they
are dependent upon the skill of these two sultans for their
spears.

Mandara does not now personally forge any weapons, in
consequence of his physical disablement ; those made in his
sultanate, however, are practically his ware, and bear the stamp

VULCANS OF CHAGA.

285

of his original skill, temper, and patterns. He has rendered
the metal work ol Chaga land the envy of other districts, as
well as the wonder of white men.

The simplicity and poverty of the native tools make their
skill all the more remarkable. One of their finest spears,
with its blade three and a half feet long and four inches wide
at the broadest point, and an inch-square
metal pike about four feet long joined with a
wooden rod from one to three feet long,
requires forty rings of iron the thickness of
telegraph wire. The texture of the metal
becomes fine and durable as it is heated,
in order to weld, in charcoal fires, and neces-
sarily wrought very slowl)', hence it is the
gradual process, coalescing the iron wire
into a mass, and its carbonizing- makes the
temper very fine, and converts the metal into ■
an admirable semblance of steel. In lieu of
an anvil, the metal is forged upon a piece of

. . BRASS AND IRON BELL

close-gramed ironstone by a heavy stone or ear-rings.

iron hammer. The hot iron is grasped and manipulated
with a rude pair of long-handled pincers ; the fire is kept
alive by a pair of native bellows alternately inflated with
and expressing the air as operated by a man sitting between
them on the ground opposite the fire. The nozzles of the bel-
lows are made of pottery, and are plunged into a small clay
oven ; the charcoal is doled out in small quantities, and treated

286

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

sparingly as something- precious ; in lact, a long roll of grass,
neatly disposed, contains the fuel, opened at one end, from
which an attendant picks out with his hands, lump by lump,
or in handfuls the black diamonds to revive the fire ; his

miserly care impresses the onlooker
with the idea that he is dealing with
an article oi great price, as in fact it
in consequence of the primitive man-
ner it is charred on the mountain. A
tree is fired about si.\ feet from the
ground, and wet grass plastered in a
hummock over the l)urning portion to
smother the flames. When the smoul-
dering trunk is charred, the tree topples
over, and when a fresh supply of charcoal
was required, the body and branches were
treated in the same method.

A ptndi is an autocrat, accounted and
recognized to be a great man ; he bears an
imperious mien, and is always attended b}' a
coterie of followers and henchmen who do his
slightest biddine, as he bends over his work
and fashions the articles of his craft ; thirsty,
some one gives him a drink oi pombc ; tired
or hungry, he pauses, even betakes himself away for refresh-
ment. No one presumes to suggest aught to him ; no one
dares to gainsay him. He is master of his craft ; he realizes

NATIVE CALFSKIN
BELLOWS.

VULCANS OF CHAGA.

287

his own power ; he exercises his prerogative of superiority
upon every trivial occasion. Tlien, too, he has certain privi-
leges and perquisites not accorded even to the chiefs who
are not also fiutdis.

During an evening's chat a fundi said to one of my
interpreters, " Come now, good man, where would the war-
riors be, if it
were not for /

the spears and
knives that
\\\Q. fundi make ? '

The interpre-
ter queried, " Do
you fight?"

" Fight, boy?
Me fight? No, I make spears,
so that cl-viorau (warriors) native calfskin bellows.

fight in the right waj- ; fight to kill."

At this he seized by the middle the wooden part of a
spear which he had stuck in the ground erect in front of
himself when he had squatted down before the crackling
camp-fire to chat.

" See ! see, boy ! " He cleverly balanced the double
weapon, spear-head one end, pike the other, plunging for-
ward with an upward sweep the fire-flashed metal, describing
a broad arc, yet he did not let go of the wooden centre,
but rushed ahead until it had reached its limit, then whirled

288 SULTAX TO SULTAN.

the weapon out, and vaulting backward forcibly drove the

pike into the ground behind him, when, with a glow of
satisfaction over his own prank, he exclaimed, " See, boy !
see ! " quickly uprooting the quivering weapon, again vio-
lently swirling it from right to left in the same wild manner,
leaping sideways with agility as if parrying a blow; "this,
boy, this is the way I, the great fundi ot Fimbosa, teach
the warriors ; they may kill a foe in an eye-look with my
beautiful spears." Poising the heavy weapon on the fore-
finger of his right hand until it gently swung like a pendu-
lum, he sauntered away, evidently loath to remain in the
presence of Zanzibari who was ignorant of his noble calling
and of the brave fabrications thereof.

In good truth, to be a spear or sword fujidi requires
admirable skill and practice alike of eye and hand, in order
to shape, balance, set, edge, and polish the blades, much
more so certainly than is required to make their agricultural
implements and small knives, although they are more or
less all made according to tribal conventional shapes, gauged
by the recjuirements ot utilit)'.

Still more delicate and nimble, but not so masterful,
must be the fingers of those who are the jewellers among.st
the fundi s, for the fine wire the)- make by repeatedly and
laboriously drawing when heated with long, slender pincers
through the cJiambiwo or perforated metal or stone screens of
various sizes in order to reduce to a delicate size to make

MASAI

SPEAK, the slender link chains which are so pliant and marvellously

3.- '

■~'^".

VULCANS OF CHAGA.

289

dainty, and the many sizes of metal beads they manufacture
by cutting from a wire cubes of certain length, then, by beating
them thin and flat, turn them into little cylinders, pressing
the edges so close
the union is
scarcely noticea-
ble, at the same
time keeping them
round. Some
square dice-
shaped metal
beads are also
made by them.

It occurs to
me that if cara-
vans would carr)-
for barter suitable
tubings of differ-
ent metal and
different sizes, it
would vastly re-
duce the labor of
the native metal
workers; although
it is questionable
if more accurate and symmetrical forms of machine-made tubing
would lend beauty to their present fabrications. They have

METAL CHAIN EAR-RINGS, BRASS, COPPER, AND IRUX HEADS.

290

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

an odd habit of placing around a staff rings of iron wire, and
stringing together links of chains to be used when required.
The only crucibles I could discover in the
regions I visited were stones hollowed out and
a fire built all around them, inside and out,
until they became white hot, when the inside
was brushed out and iron, brass, copper, and
solder put in, then kept hot by the surrounding
fire until it melted, when they would pour
the liquefied metal into a wooden mould
the shape of the bracelet or necklet required,
which they had previously soaked until
thoroughly saturated, first in grease, then
in water ; but this method is not held desira-
ble. The native connoisseurs prefer the
hand-forged articles of jewelry, in the same
manner as do civilized folk prefer anything
hand wrought to that which is cast or
machine made. I am not speaking of the
people far up on the mountain, who use
great furnaces and smelt native iron, but
of the people of Chaga land, whom I was
privileged to see at work. Hence I hope
I will not be understood as assuming there
are no furnaces in East .Africa.

Their graving tools are very primitive,

REAL SIZE SMALLEST CHAGA

BRASS BEADS. generally consisting of a piece of iron they

VULCANS OF CHAGA.

291

have welded, having a narrow chisel edge with which they cut
into the articles, much as do the artisans in civilized countries,
by tapping the instrument with a metal or stone hammer when
held on the article to be embellished, and follow the pattern,
thus graving out the design intended. All of their processes
are slow, requiring great patience, — a quality patent to native
peoples the world over. They insert or incn
bits of silver, gold, and other metals, bits of
ivory, bone, beads, into wooden vessels and
gourds most cleverly. This is done in a style
durable, finished, and artistic, far from being
trumpery, and certainly not slipshod. They
finish off with spiral rings of fine copper or
brass wire or dainty rows of beads the ends
of all objects, or where there are two parts
joined, or one material used for embellish-
ment or it merges into another for lack of
quantity, or prompted by the selection of
taste, displays the trait of perfection which
is the acme of all crafts. Ear-rings five
inches in diameter, of double circles of
brass wire, like Catharine rings, are most perfectly shaped
and highly polished ; and this without any tools except pincers
or hammers, pieces of flint and pumice stone, and perchance
when they are fortunate enough to possess a file procured
trom some Arab caravan. The art of buffing or polishing,
smoothing oft and brightening, is effectually done in the

ME'lAL EAR-R1N(;S.

292

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

first place with pumice stone, in which this volcanic region
abounds, wood ashes, using as buffers goat, sheep, and cow
skins, as well as the palms of the hands well moistened.
If you will take the trouble to watch a group of this
dusky people before a fire which has burned long and
the ashes accumulated, you may .see some of their number
spitting into the palms of their hands, which they dip into
the ashes and afterwards vigorously rub their bracelets or
anklets, and the brightness and glitter which their orna-
ments preserve, although coated with grease and clay, I

have never been able to procure with-
out using burnishing irons and pumice
powder mi.xed with kerosene or lye.
Ornamentation appears as a species
of religion with them, and they never
seem to be content with their possessions to
the point that they cease to strive to accumu-
late more.

Vanity and love of finery, in Africa at least, are free from
being exclusively feminine, for the men are quite as prone
to indulge in personal bedeckment as the women, if not more
so, and amongst some tribes the warriors and patcrfamtlias
do all the strutting about and fancy work, whilst the women
toil, till the plantations, carry wood, carry the fodder for the
cattle, care for the stall-fed creatures. They stick with marked
tenacity to a mode in decorations, and seemingly avoid exer-
cising originality in design, in order to follow a fashion. Very

NATIVE SEME AND
SCABBARD.

VUI.CANS OF CHAGA.

293

true, this fashion may change or become diversified when the
people of various tribes mingle in friendly association, and
possibly exchange, present, or barter their trinkets to some
•enterprising youth or girl. Anon, frequently when they can-
not get what they crave in gewgaws, they will not refuse
what is proffered, unless it is in lieu of a purchase;
then they will not as a rule be swayed, save by
their own will. To their native metal work they
frequently subjoin charms, c/awa, or medicine beads,
animals' teeth, which are worn for various complaints,
and frequently loaned by members of a family one
to the other. Their bells have various uses and
various significance, beside that of ornamenta-
tion. A warrior's bell, six inches long, turned
over in shape, with a metal bullet or metal
piece within, is attached to a leather beaded
band, which is worn below the knee by the
Masai during times of war. A little iron bell,

IKON BELL WORN

three inches long and two in diameter, with by a woman.
a long bar-shaped tongue, constructed somewhat after the
pattern of a lily, is worn by a woman during her first preg-
nancy. It serves as a warning to those who approach her :
the herders driving home the cattle, and youths dancing, and
all those who might suddenly frighten her, take heed of the
warning tinkle, are silenced, and let her pass unmolested.
Then the majority if not all of the people in most of the tribes
wear little jingling bells, affixed to thongs strapped around

294

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

their ankles or arms ; and in the tribes on the mountain, if a
woman or man is found at night outside the boiiia without
these bells, they are supposed to be on some evil errand, and
must suffer accordingly. Then they wear little bells, like
turnover pies, in their ears, around their arms, around their
dancing wands. They put bells around the necks of one or
two of their cattle in a herd, when they are grazing in the
open, and hang them about the fringes of their bead orna-
ments ; and they all have a peculiar sound of their own.
They use a circlet of bells to teach the children
how to walk.

Catching sight of and hearing the
%/ jingle of a string of cowrie-shaped small
-*\ iron bells attached to a leather strap around
the ankles of a mere toddler, and observing
the little one constantly looking down to her
feet striving to see them, apparently to the
great danger of her equilibrium every time
they tinkled, I asked her mother why she allowed the child
to wear them, at the risk of having her fall.
"To make her walk," was her prompt reply.
Then she pointed to the little feet, and 1 watched the
child's performance only a minute to be convinced of the
cleverness of the maternal trick. The little one would move
a foot In an undecided, unsteady way to put It to the
ground, when the bells would tinkle, and with frantic efforts
she would wriggle her body in every direction to see where

BELLS WORN BY
INFA.NIS.

VULCANS OF CHAGA. 295

the noise came from, and half losing her equipoise, up
would fly the other foot, then she would hear another sound
of bells ; and so on indefinitely going through with the same
performance, one foot and the other alternately, until she
had crossed the broad ground of the boma.

By a happy chance I had a large supply of table and
call bells and small sleigh bells, which were received
with delicjht as shifts, and the natives were even

o o

anxious to barter for.

Their knives are sometimes oddly shaped, some-
times rude enough, again works of artistic cutlery. / / /\
Frequently they wear them on their arms in /^4^
a leather band, with little tubes of arrow /
poison strung on to them by delicate metal
chains or strips of leather ; they also thrust
them into their belts for convenience in

MEDICINE MAN'S KNIFE

case of defence, as well as to be able on and poison tubes.
the instant to cut the thorns, bananas, corn, grass, and to
dig out their wooden utensils.

Banana knives are rough, heavy blades, set in short,
straight wooden handles, sharpened on the inner groove, so
that they hook them around the stalk of a bunch of bananas
and deftly with one sweep detach it from the main branch.

Rings and bracelets, leglets and neck ornaments, in the
case of the Masai women, consist of great coils like ex-
aggerated multifold continuous bangles or car springs, finished
off with other metals; the body of the ornament, which is

296

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

usually iron, garnished with copper and brass by way of con-
trast, always with the idea of accentuating display. Almost
every man understands in an amateurish way something of
metal work. He makes for himself, his sweetheart, or wives
rings and bracelets and anklets, but he is not a master, not
a fundi.

They showed me the source from which they pattern the
splendid Masai spears, and I was delighted to find it was the

ORNAMENTS WORN BY A MASAI WOMAN. IRON COILS FINISHED WITH
BR.4SS AND COPPER.

leaf of the same species of cactus as the Spanish sword bayonet,
indigenous to various tropical regions, and when a leaf of this
cactus was held beside their implement, the accuracy of their
eyes and gift of reproduction were evidenced, for the shape
was a complete copy, even as to the little peculiar roundness
of the point, and the ridge running through the centre of
the spear, which puts the stamp of grace upon a master-
piece ; and their smaller spears, that are used by the Rombo

VULCANS OF CHAGA. 297

and other tribes, are imitations of rubber and magnolia
leaves.

They make crude bullets and spoons, arrowheads, rude
razors. This latter is not to be wondered at, as it seems to
be one of the traditional coat-of-arms of all negroes. How-
ever, their razors have no wings; they do notj
fly, as in America.

The way in which they turn
to account every bit of
shining metal is some-
times amusing. Ever)
tin can, when emptied, is
carefully pre-
served to pre-
sent to them by
the porters, who make
efforts to win a smile, obtain a favor, or procure a tidbit for
their pot they could not otherwise afford. One day after dis-
carding the metal tube upon which had been rolled surgical
plaster, spindle shaped, with circular ends colored bright red,
I was pleased to see a pretentious young warrior sally about
the camp with the article thrust into his ears. The tops of
the cans they would convert into dangling dice, scalloped,
diamond shaped, round, square, to add a lustre to their own
finery. Watch and clock wheels are likewise e.xtracted from
timekeepers to mark the rapid pace of fashion in ornamen-
tation.

warrior's bell.

298

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Soda-water bottles were pounced on with avidity, and the
men would squabble until blows ensued for their possession.
They liked to have the bottles to carry water or milk for
their own use, as well as to barter with the natives. In
sauntered on a village palaver ground a native, in truth a so-
called crown prince, with twelve soda-water bottles attached
to a leather girdle ; the dozen represented his accumulation
of possibly years, but this moment in my presence he

thought the proper occa-
L sion to disport his soi-
1 i^isan/ treasure. For
this delicate tribute I
held a full-dress reception,
attired in my court gown and
all the splendors of my jewel
box and portable wardrobe. As
usual, the function was a very dis-
tinguished social success, and exalted
me far above mortals of common clay
in the estimation of sultan, crown prince, courtiers, and ple-
beians. All the world over tailors and dressmakers hold a
rule and reign wherever civilization dares stride. Decency
and style with the enlightened, the spirit of monkey-like
imitation with the untutored primitives, make votaries to the
tyrant Fashion.

Soon after a splendid Masai spear had been received by
me, the chief of camp story-telling made it the occasion to

DANCING BELL.

VULCANS OF CHAGA.

299

flourish before his comrades, after scornfully listening to a
green porter's yarn about some cruelty practised by the Somali,
burst out vehemently : —

"What! you call that worth the telling, man? Come now,
listen to a true story. It will put warmth into your blood,
and make you sleep with your e\'es open. When I first

NATIVE VULCAN S BRACELETS.

came to Masai country, aye, before you had stopped tugging
at your mother's breasts, coming from the winter's sun-bed,
we saw two men carrying — "

He turned and darted a fierce glance of defiance on the
group of porters certainly uncalled for, as they sat mutely
engrossed in the progress of his story, never vouchsafing to
lisp one word. "Do you know what?" he said to one;

?oo

SULTAX TO SULTAN.

"or you? or you? or you?" and he pointed with his knob
Kerry stick rapidly from one of his followers to another,
never expecting an answer. "Ha! ha! I might have known
you couldn't guess. Well, mark you! keep your ears open
as the day. Upon a spear — a spear like this!" — and he took
up a large Masai spear — "two Masai carried between them,
upon which swung the bodies of three Rombos, spitted like
fish to bake ! rigfht throuoh the middle, on the same haft !
Hey ! who dares gainsay that ? Vou see, lads, I have travelled.
A man must travel to see and to tell."

And he swaggered on down through the camp, quite
satisfied with the horror he had inspired ; and it occurred to
me that a white woman must travel at the head of a caravan
to hear such yarns.

PRIMITIVE KI.MANGEUA.

;oi

<.\>; \

CHAPTER XIV.

; PRIMITIVE KIMANGELIA.

IMANGELIA, at the height of four thou-
sand seven hundred feet above the sea
level, in the mountain forests on the
ortheastern slope of Kilimanjaro, be-
tween the second and third decree
south of the equator, forms the
frontier of Masai land, was the objec-
tive point of a two or more days'
■■■*-' march. It became necessary to re-

pose considerable confidence in a native guide bearing the
geographical appellation of Mombasa of Taveta, — a perfect
dandy in his make up, handsome and self-conscious, faithful
and inoffensive. He had been born at Useri, but lived at
Taveta. The hue of his complexion betokened the inter-
mingling of w'hite blood in his veins. Mombasa of Taveta
insisted, and was riofht, too, that the forest village was above
Useri on the mountain, whereas an English official, desirous
of floating the English flag and enter a first claim in behalf
of the English, recognizing the established fact that all terri-
tory above the plains must be German, and having sited in

302 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

the distance from Lake Chala the jjlantations of Kimangelia,
had concluded that it must be below the lake region, uhich
was a theme of dispute then, but since has been admitted to
be German. He had laid out another route, by following
which, in spite of Mombasa's protests, the caravan was com-
pelled to make a long tedious detour.

Lake Chala was then debatable grounds in consequence of
the gradual slope of the plain from Taveta to the lake
^ which is so gentle that the rim of the crater ap-
proached from Taveta seems almost on a level with
the plain. Dr. Myer has expressed an opinion that
even Taveta should legitimately belong to the Germans.
There is much striving to encroach on all sides in the
establishment of territorial lines throughout Africa,
which demonstrates the importance attached to Afri-
can possessions, especially in this particular section
Y of East Africa. The Chaga language is almost uni-
versally spoken after leaving Taveta on the slopes of
LEGLET. Kilimanjaro, and I was informed throughout Masai
country. The agreed governmental plan of allotting the
highlands and mountain of Kilimanjaro to the Germans,
and the plains and all territory to the east to the English, it
would seem cannot be consistently adhered to, for the reasons
that the highland habitants must have access to the grassy
plains for fodder and to hunt, whereas the habitants of the
plains should have recourse to the highlands for their planta-
tions, hence with strictly maintained dividing lines there must

PRIMITIVE KIMANGELIA.

303

constantly arise friction and worse ; for it can hardly be ex-
pected that either the English or the Germans will complacently
submit to the rigid enforcement of territorial lines, or the
collection of imposts in these primitne re ■^jsj^,
gions, with mainly a native constitu- .^ ,\ .^mtmwi^^^r

ency to levy upon. ^.^H' * W^^'',-

^« 1' rrni ftj. . --Si
From this point I took guides from

the tribes, with the idea that I would

hold these ouides, in case of attack -> V^% ^

or hostility, as hostages, and the

instant the first tribe made an

assault on me or my caravan, I i//-*^^

would punish these guides in ,.-'-'-y ■.

some unmistakable manner that

would stand as a warning to all

further aggressors. They were

also useful to point out difficulties, #/■, '■•

avoid traps, and show the most acces- ^i'''-^

sible paths. Before I got through with

OSIRICH KEAIHER

m)- journe\-, I had attached to ni)' little masai mask.
army forty of these half-prisoner guides, who were perfectly
happy, in their unconsciousness of the motive which actuated
me, to jog along day after day enjoying the fellowship of
the porters.

The people of Useri were somewhat disturbed in their
minds upon the appearance of the white woman's caravan.
They were under German protection, flying the German flag,

304 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

and hesitated in giving to me the welcome othet" tribes had
extended. I sent two messengers to the Sultan Malimia's
boma, saying we would await him half an hour, or, as they
quaintly say, " until the sun is there," pointing to a special
place in the heavens; and while I was waiting it gave me a
little opportunity to study the people.

The women were decorated very much after the fashion of
the Wa-Taveta, with the exception that they wore from a
clumped piece of hair on the centre of their forehead little
circular bone ornaments, terminating in metal fringes, which
hung down over the nose; and some of them wore metal
chains around their heads, which hung lil<e fringed veils to
their eyebrows ; and their ears were pierced at every point
possible, into which were thrust beads and pods, and long
ivory or bone pendent rings. The men were shy and had a
hang-dog look about their faces, which might have arisen
from their recent subjugation by treaty of the Germans, and
the presence of German soldiers in their midst; they seemed
uneasy and on the lookout for a surprise.

Sultan Malimia did not make his appearance at the stated
time, so we proceeded on our journey to be overtaken, when
five minutes beyond the confines of his province, by a message
through his prime minister to say that if Bebe Bwana would
only return he would receive her, and he had some fine
presents. I promptly said, " Bebe Bwana never returns. If
the Sultan of Useri wishes to see her, let him follow her to
the next encampment." This resulted in his sending after me

PRIMITIVE KIMANGELIA.

305

a meagre quantity of presents, -which I did not accept. In any
country but Africa this would assume the appearance of surli-
ness or contempt on a traveller's part, but in Africa the prestige
of the white man or woman must be maintained through certain
current conventions, which are well known with all the natives.

We passed the fountains of Useri, which are more in the
name than in fact, and more like pools than fountains.

From this point, passing through many villages and
small tribes, we directed our course to Kimangelia

Wart hogs and other rather wild beasts
abounded, and the fresh spoor of rhinoceros, the
occasional bellow of buffalo, and the crushed grass
showing evidences of beds just forsaken by recent
denizens, made our march somewhat anxious.
Every one was on the alert, and not one dare
say he could complacently encounter a buffalo
My personal mishaps became stupidly frequent,
succession I tumbled into three deep holes, newly excavated
by the wart hogs, never profiting by a first tumble on
account of the tanofle of grrass that covered them.

Then the caravan parted, and it was a long time before
the stragglers were reunited, one of the porters broke his
shin bone, another had a chunk of flesh gouged out of his
shoulder through a tin box slipping off from his head and
cruelly striking him in its tumble ; fever prevailed, and for
some time all sorts of trying incidents flocked unceasingly
like birds of ill omen.

USERI HEAD
ORNAMENT.

In quick

3o6

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

A Masai woman's corpse was nosed out in tlie bush,

with all her armor of iron wire leglets and armlets upon her

stark stiff body untouched, however much coveted, through

superstition. Personally I nerved myself to the removal of

^,-.\\ her leglets, which had become so imbedded into

{iafc->- > ■ the flesh and muscles ot her legs, amputation

was necessary. Josefe only was ready
,,' to assist me to perform the un-
pleasant business. Certainly I
could have commanded any of
■^^: my porters to attend to this
matter, but they were possessed
by nameless superstitions; and
such an exaction on my part
would ha\e put a damper on
their exalted estimation of me
,' for so outraging their senti-
ments. I endeavored to main-
tain a policy of harmony when
consistent.

M\ \i II MMi.'Ax. Dail)' the temperature was

so alterable that it was with difficulty the porters could keep
warm at night, although sweltering under the direct tropical
rays of the sun in the noonda)-. Towards three or four
o'clock 1'. M. the hot air would suddenly ascend to the moun-
tain region, and be displaced by a rush of cold air, and a
constant atmospheric current swept over the country. The

w
a;
p

o
z

2
w

H
Z

PRIMITIVE KIMANGELIA.

j^/

regularity of these breezes suggested the idea that windmills
might be profitably established, which could be used for irri-
gation and cistern purposes. Although the natives have
ingeniously and methodically constructed ditches and erected
irrigation troughs, made by digging out tree trunks, with
which they surround their plantations on the top of some of
the mountains, and on all sides could be heard the purling
of the water, sometimes hidden beneath the vines or by the
dracaena hedges that divided the plantations by lanes. The
recent downfall of rain had converted the ground of these
lanes into very tenacious, slippery mud, and often we would
sink up to our knees in a black, pudding-like mixture, and
the suction offered great resistance to rapid progress; or
in descending a slight slant with feet together every one
would slide down, or in ascending we were forced to cut
foot-holes and clutch frantically to the shrubbery to ward
against backsliding, and avoid being washed along in the
resistless current of an unspent swift gush of gurgling water
that would bound down over rocky beds, seeking the bottom
of the cations, or leap and tumble into cascades to join
swirling rapids seaward bent.

Tlie moisture which rises from the oround at nieht makes
a singular phosphorescent mist, which carries sufficient dew
to bathe and nourish all vegetation and, in fact, the land
around, to bring about certain results which are almost
phenomenal considered from an agricultural point of view.
It is from these heavy dews that most of the nous-iiiioas, or

;o8

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Stone reservoirs, are kept supplied. It is one of the great dis-
advantages to the traveller in Africa, subjecting him to much
discomfort and rendering him liable to fevers, if the greatest
care is not observed to ward against the insidious dampness.
The moisture causes to exhale from the shrubs, flowers, and
grasses a sweetish odor, which at times becomes stifling,

and it is no uncommon thing
to find almost every man in a
caravan afflicted with asthma,
and as he marches along his
snorting, wheezino breath is
very perceptible.

In countries of such a cli-
mate the usual practice sug-
gested by all good military
B tacticians, of surrounding a tent
with a ditch, in case of rain,
MASAI i:l-moka\. is a great mistake, excepting

when absolutely necessary. Making personal observations on
this point, in the hope of ameliorating my personal condi-
tion, — being a victim to chronic asthma, — I fountl that the
newly upturned earth at night would emit a phosphorescent
p^low which would hano- and hover about the little trench as
it reluctant to part from its maternal source ; and all sorts
of crawling things would issue forth and revel in the un-
healthy place. Another strange manifestation of these mists
was evidenced in passing my hands through the thick, wavy veil

PRIMITIVE KIMANGELIA. 3O9

and rubbing the palms together in a dark spot removed from
the trench, they would glow with phosphorus as if I had
dipped them in fire ; and when one of the porters stepped
out of these trenches he would leave his fiery footprint on the
solid ground for some minutes after walking thereon. Such a
miasmatic condition certainly cannot be conducive to the well-
being of human creatures. I have also seen mists in Africa
which were luminous and had certain powers of refracting the
rays of the moon, which became iridescent and full of prismatic
sheets and gleams. The effect was very much like a terres-
trial aurora borealis, and the foliage would stand out bright,
glistening, and green, as if the sunlight had fallen upon them
after a rain. The appearance is very weird, and I inferred of
common occurrence, as none of the men in the caravan
noted it with any degree of surprise, which would indicate
that they were accustomed to it. It had a very strange
effect upon my eyesight, and I discovered that the porters
in moving about at night would always hold their hands over
their eyes, as one naturally does to avoid the sun's glare.
A certain amount of superstition affixes to this strange mani-
festation, which perhaps may account for the porters reluctance
to speak of it, and I only noticed it in Chaga land, and not
on the plains or in the jungle. Sometimes when a man
would come rapidly through the mist, which would float and
settle down in a vacillating way without any apparent reason,
here and there his garments would be illumed with spots and
flecks of the phosphorescent particles, making him look as

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

if clad in spangled armor ; upon observing the effect upon
his own garment, he would shake his cloths and kanzii,
causing the particles to dart off in globules, leaving behind
them streaks of shimmering light through the air. This same
mist betrayed me into numerous absurdities ; for at first,
not realizing how vagrant was its course, and seeing strange

lights in the woods, I would insist on
one of my guards accompanying me
ither to make closer observation,
id althougrh I would find something
similar to a will-o'-the-wisp, it was
different, inasmuch as the light
would be in sheets. Josefe, who
BUFFALO BULL. '^^ was always ready for a game,
once placed around his staff a wad of cotton, which he took
the precaution to wet, sallied into the midst of one of these
mists, twirled his staff about as if to accumulate the phospho-
rescent qualities, and stood out in the clear, dark atmosphere
whirling his staff rapidly around until it displayed a succession
of fiery circles that lasted for an instant, then faded into
nothingness.

Observations made by me in East Africa at night were
most unusual it not unique, and made me acquainted with
certain peculiar revelations which nature seems to keep
mysteriously concealed during the day. Creeping things,
prowling animals, were ever on the alert just outside of the
encampment, deterred from coming in by the numerous fires

PRIMITIVE KI.MANGELIA. 3II

and the sentinels on watch. One night, experiencing great
fatigue, I fell in a profound slumber lying in my Palanquin
within my tent, when suddenly I awoke with a shuddering
apprehension of danger, and possessed by an instinctive feel-
ing of the presence of some harmful thing ; involuntarily
seizing my knife and pistol I cried out, "Who is there?" No
answer. Then I called out for the askaid on guard, at the
same time tried to penetrate the darkness surrounding me,
when I became aware, through the atmospheric conditions,
that a cold, clammy, moving object was above me, in truth
almost touching me, on the top of my Palanquin, the rattans
of which were cracking as if under the pressure of a mangle.
I was struggling to slide out of the Palanquin without rising
from my recumbent position to avoid touching the thing, when
the alarmed askari entered, carrying a lantern, to my abject
horror revealing to me the object I had intuitively dreaded.
My blood fairly seemed to congeal in my veins at the spectacle :
it was an enormous python, about fifteen feet long, which had
coiled around the top of the Palanquin, and at that moment
was ramping and thrusting its head out, searching for some
attainable projection around which to coil its great, shiny,
loathsome length of body. Seeing the python, the askari
immediately yelled wildly out for help, and in a moment, a
dozen stalwart porters pitched in a merciless way with their
knives upon the reptile, slashing and cutting its writhing
body into inch bits. I am not ashamed to confess it was
the supreme fear of my life, and almost paralyzed me. I

312

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

came very near collapsing- and relinquishing myself to the
nervous shock; but there was no time for such an indulgence

PALANQUIN AND PYTHON.

of weakness ; there were other sequences to be considered.
However, during my safari in East Africa, I only saw one
other live python, wrestling inconsequently with all of its might

PRIMITI\'E KIMANGEI.IA.

with one of the invincible dead giants of the forest, without
any visible success, as the majestic, unyielding tree gave no
evidence of weakness under the pressing coils of the mad-
dened monster, which was being overtaken by the realization
that all was futile, and in the end it must be
thwarted and admit defeat.

We encountered some small water and ,

land serpents, a few puff adders, but with ^'gV^Sp

few exceptions were never molested, barring ^v' -^|*
the fact that occasionally we missed a goat ^f&Up.&'A
or sheep, and they might have been the
prey of audacious hyenas and jackals, onl)'
for the reason that we heard no commo-
tion in the temporary sheds where the
animals were stalled, which indicated the
work of reptile garroters.

Reaching Klmangelia on the plains, '
the natives swarmed down from the moun-
tain fastness and urged us to visit their
mountain village, previously never entered by niziuiga.
Difficulties arose ; there was no cut or road through the forest
environments ; the porters could not force a way through.
This was soon overcome, the)' assisted cutting a way through
the gigantic trees, and as we plunged into the depths of a
foliage-twilighted thicket, the hippopotamuses grunted and
shambled awa)\ disturbed for the first time by a paleface
or the commotion of a caravan.

CHACA CHAIN FILET.

314

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

The sultan was a victim to his own debaucheries, and was
paralyzed and unable to meet or personally welcome Bebe
Bwana, but he had placed at my disposal his great circular
palaver grounds cleared in the centre of a primeval forest, and
overlooking Masai land on the north and the lonof stretch of

CAMPING GROUND, KIMANGELIA.

country we had passed over, and beyond, overhead, grand
Kilimanjaro.

Their habits and customs, in matters of dress, superstition,
marriage, rites, fetes, and pursuits were a cross between the
Chaga people and the Masai. At that particular time they
were disturbed, not knowing whether the Germans or Encrlish

PRIMITIVE KIMANGELIA. 3 I 5

were going to claim them, and inclined towards the English,
having been prejudiced against the Germans by the accounts
given by the Masai.

In consequence of the cold blasts which swept down from
Kilimanjaro, the women wore, as do the Masai women, cow-
hides around their waists and over their shoulders, and the
great masses of iron and brass coils about their necks, arms,
and legs that the Masai do. Their plantations are thrifty,
and their /u/idi's do
splendid chain
work ; live stock '
was kept very scarce
by the Masai. Honey anc
poinbc were almost poured down
upon us ; and the heads of the tribe chaga snuff box.
ordered dances, and as the moon shone, ventured to sally from
their huts and pay nighdy visits to the encampment. Greek
fire delighted them, and a volley of musketry gave them a
foretaste of real paradise. As usual, a full-dress reception
was in vogue ; their admiration surpassed anything of the
kind I had ever been the recipient of. And as for the itiusic
box, they wagged their heads and addressed barbaric prayers,
called it n^^ai, and called me ugai, their equivalant for God,
as in fact everything mysterious is to them, ngai.

Masai women flocked to see me, and secret messengers
were sent to ask Bebe Bwana to visit a certain village not
remote. The import cf this was to say that I would accom-

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

pany them alone about a distance not exceeding five miles,
I would be shown something that no 7nztcnga had ever seen.
These envoys were not of Kimangelia, but from another tribe.
W^hilst a couple of guests I had for a short time with me were
indulging in an afternoon nap, I accompanied the natives,
escorted by Josefe and Hamidi. Arriving at the place of
destination, with a display of great secrecy I was shown by

the chief, after all
but two of his
own attendants
had been dis-
missed, a stone
spear-head, the ex-
act size and shape of a
Masai spear, which was kejDt
secretly buried and unknown

CHAIN AND BEAD GIRDLE. ^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^J^^ ^l^J^f ^^J

two or three of his confidants, including his prime minister,
and which he told me passed in line of descent from chief
to son for decades. I asked him how long it had been in
the possession of his tribe. " Since the sun made day and
the moon lig-hted the nigrht."

"Was it before Kilimanjaro spit fire?"

" Oh, long before that," he replied, " when the streams
run fire."

He begged me not to reveal the place of concealment, or
the name of his province or his tribe, as he said the " Dutch"

Q
Z

PRIMITIVE KIMAXGELIA. 3 I 7

would take it from him. It illustrated a very important point
in the history of the origin of these people.

Another day, quite inadvertentl)', while my men were halted
eating, smoking, singing, and talking at the top of their voices,
according to ni)' habit I was strolling about hard by to get
away from the din and confusion, seeing what I could discover
or taking photographs ; after reaching a point about half a
mile from my caravan, I stepped
what seemed a firm surface and
tumbled amidst a perfect screen
of vines and shrubbery into a
cave. I brought away pieces of
the stone which made the body
of the cave, and a small piece of a
stone mortar which I unearthed, fo
it stood in one corner concealed by
cover of moss and lichens, so long had metal bead necklace.
it been undisturbed. The cave was an irregular oven shape ;
part had been artificially made and part was a natural cave, and
it undermined the surface of the earth above it, which came
over sharp to the edge, wherefrom the vines fell as a pent
and down to the ground, trailing in long lengths be)-ond and
obscuring the entrance. It was about four feet square and five
and a half in height, and evidently had been a smith's workshop,
a primitive vulcan's forge. There were several stones standing
up against the wall, upon the floor, which seemed to have
served as forms to work upon, and what must have been used

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

as an an\il bore the abrasions caused by wieldincr heavy blows
that spent their extra force upon the stone and -was much
discolored with smoke. jealous of my discovery, and eager
not to be surprised by my porters in this cave, I hastily with-
drew, fully intending some clay to make fuller investigation,
as well as to search elsewhere for similar evidences of the
Stone Age or of the Cave Dwellers. Just here allow me to
digress and call attention to the excavations at the foot of
the hill upon which Mandara's boma is founded, and which I
subsequently entered only to be summoned back without time
to make a full investigation by the warning of my headman
who stated it was a death's trap to be shunned.

MASAI.

319

CHAPTER XV.

MASAI.

LUSTERERS that the Masai are,

they cannot be seriously looked upon

as true warriors, or as possessing

real bravery ; but rather as African

Jack Shepherds. Their vocation is

cattle stealine, freebootine, and raid-
er o

%^ ing their neighbors, after terrorizing
y, them by their merciless onslaught.
With theatrical make-up and hostile
manner, they succeed in creating a panic wherever they list to
carry a high hand, not only in the hearts of natives, but by
compelling Germans and English to defence, and are soon
put to rout by gunpowder.

They recognize no law but capture and victory. They have
frequently attacked the arcadian Wa-Taveta with a fierce
hatred, although the W^a-Taveta are deputed to have descended
from the Masai.

They will not work; they have not the pride of tlie Wa-
Chaga in forging their own spears, but depend upon the
vulcans of Chaga for their fine Aveapons and almost all of their

320 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

metal work. Donkey breeding seems to be their only legiti-
mate labor. They make demands upon the services of the
Wandurobo, a semi-subject nomadic tribe, which, although
servile and subjugated by the Masai, is not actually in slavery.
They hunt and engage in agricultural pursuits only to the
extent of barely supplying necessities which the Masai cannot
loot from other tribes, who, in return, give the Wandurobo their
protection, and secure to them an immunity from their own
persecution. These people are most insignificant in appear-
ance, low of stature, almost dwarf. " Du-
robo" signifies stumpy. Among those
we met there was no man who attained
a height of over four feet and
a few inches, and some were
considerably shorter.

ARMOR FOR NECK. Jl^^ ^J^^^j j^^^.g ^ ^^,^;^^ ^^.^^.

of forbidding passage through their territory. They place in
the middle of a path likely to be traversed by an individual
or a caravan, a bullet, over which they cross two twigs
stripped of foliage, with the exception of a tassellccl brush
at the top. The first person trespassing beyond this barrier
is usually speared or shot without hesitation by some warder
who is in ambush. Not knowing of this custom, inadver-
tently coming to such a forbiddance, I kicked it aside. In
consternation one oi my headmen sprang forward, urging
me to pause if I valued my life, for the moment I put foot
beyond that point 1 most likely would be assassinated.

MASAI.

321

Before he had conckided his words of warPxing, about thirty

Masai warriors abruptly made their appearance in a great state

of agitation, with uphfted spears, frantically gesticulating, as

they ordered us to halt, and demanded from me the payment

of a large amount of hongo for the depredation committed.

Every porter in my caravan was terror-stricken and quite ready

to drop his load and take to his heels. However, the fierce

Masai were soon appeased with a few lumps of bluestone,

which they prize as highly as they

do donkeys or cattle. These

were given as a present, and

not admittedly as a penalty,

for I felt to recognize, even

in such a slight matter, their

arbitrary right in prohibiting a

passage through a tract of country

not actually theirs, might in the

end result disastrously not only to myself, but to other

caravan leaders who might follow.

Their costumes and habits have the most distinctive
personality of all the tribes I met. The women paint their
faces with white and red splotches, and often wear a close-
fitting cowhide hood, embellished on the margins with iron
and blue or green glass rings, which covers their foreheads and
chins, exposing their ears with their heavy brass Catherine
wheel ear rings, and falls down over the back ot their heads
upon their necks and shoulders, beneath their ponderous

MASAI BRASS BRACELET.

322 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

brass or iron coil collars. They present a most hideous
appearance. The men, also, indulge, upon occasions more
or less frivolous, in paint, decorating their bodies by daubing
on masses of color.

The women are not well made, and are far from being
up to the standard of physical comeliness of the women of
other tribes, but rather taller, even more so than the men.
They wear quantities of ponderous iron coils like greaves
about their legs and also their arms, weighing as much as
fifty pounds. These are placed on before the bones and
muscles have attained full growth, and naturally the enormous
weight and constant pressure of the ponderous metal orna-
ments retard the normal development alike of bones, muscles,
and flesh, hence the women are angular, lank, sinewy, and
yet fleet as deer, and very strong.

Grass used as a truce with the Masai is more general
than with other tribes, possibly on account of the exigencies
which are the outcome of their belligerent habits ; and
an essential part of the attire of the Masai women, who act
as purveyors between tribes, and move about generally
unmolested among even hostile tribes, seems to be a bunch
of grass, which they fasten to their cowhide belts, or tie
to some of their iron coils, in order to have convenient
when as occasion arises, wherewith to manifest amity. It
is one of the most significant and delicate symbols univer-
sally recognized through Chaga land, to ignore which must
naturally curtail any traveller's opportunities to see and to be

MASAI.

trustingly welcomed ; the adoption of which proved most
serviceable to me at almost every turn, for frequently I stepped
apart from my caravan to parley with natives, holding in my
hands and extending towards them a bunch of grass without
any flowers intermingled, always to meet with a genuine wel-
come, albeit the natives might have at first evinced a measure
of suspicion and over-caution, if indeed they were not abso-
lutely inimical. When several Masai women approached me

with their upheld
hands f u 1 1 of
grass, clutching
in the middle
the stems, which
were turned from
both sides tow-
ard the centre,
and the heads

MASAI WOMEN CALLERS. of the g^rass wav-

ing outward, I thought it one of the daintiest exhibitions of
symbolical friendliness I had ever witnessed. Grass is like-
wise used as a prayer for mercy when an offence has been
committed. Anon, when the cross-paths are perplexing and
a leader desires to forfend against the chance of his caravan
going astray, grass is thrown across the divergent path.

The Masai also use salt stone, cliumvi, and tobacco stone
as peace offerings. I brought back with me quite a quantity
of both sorts, which had been presented to me at various times,

324 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

and have had diem analyzed at the Royal College of Science,
London, through the joint courtesy of Professor Judd and
Professor T. E. Thorpe, February 22, 1S92.

Analysis of Salt Stone.

Carbon dioxide 3947

Soda (Nag.°) 39.95

Ferric oxide 1.59

Common salt A trace.

Water 18.99

100.00

Salt stone is simply a hydrated sesquicarbonate of soda

or fona (2 Na, O3W3432 O), containing a trace of common

salt and oxide of iron.

(Signed) T. E. Thorpe.

Analysis of Tobacco Stone.

Soda (Nag.°) 29.92

Carbon dioxide 30.48

Magnesia 2.28

Lime 1.52

Alumina and ferric oxide 1.97

Chlorine 1.S3

Water 15 -3'

Clay 16.69

100.00
The substance is mainly fona, or hydrated sesquicarbonate
of soda mixed with the carbonate of lime and magnesia, a
trace of common salt and clay.

(Signed) T. E. Thorpe.

MASAI.

325

Tobacco stone they mix with tlieir tobacco and snuft ; it
is also ad\antageously bartered to caravans for the same
purpose. Salt stone, called c/iituii'i, is not a bad substitute
for pure salt ; however, pure salt is abundant throughout
portions of Masai land, and man)' contests and
battles have grown out of the fact that
various other tribes have been dis
covered by the Masai in the act of
looting their salt fields. Some of
the lagoons or pools are decid

edlv brackish, and an incrustation \ , _

^"^' \\
of salt, caused by evaporation ^^*

forms on the surface of the stones V^-*^-

about the water's edge. Th

1 .1 . f ^

renders the water 01 numerous -^^ -.

pools unfit to drink. The wild ^'^

animals naturally seek the water '^^^

ways and the salt fields, and can

be readily tracked by hunters to theii

lairs, as well as reveal to the observ- "'''' "'^^ "'''''•

ant individual where to find both water and salt.

A Masai woman's regulation dress consists of four metal

spiral coils for the legs, four similar coils for the arms,

and a metal coil collar supplemented by brass and pewter

collars or necklets representing an average weight of forty

to fifty pounds, to which is added several pounds in metal

and other beads. Usually they wear a cowhide as a skirt,

326

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

and a second one as a cloak over their shoulders ; even some-
times disport for this purpose fine Hyrax furs, monkey and
goat skins, and sheep fleeces to protect themselves against
the diurnal winds. Their shrewdness has been developed

VULTURE FEATHER KL'FF, PART OF MASAI WAR UNIFORM.

in a marked degree. Doubtless this is due to the fact that
the men, with their freebooter propensities, are constantly
embroiled with other tribes and luiropeans. However, whilst
war is proceeding, the women have free, unmolested access be-

MASAI. 327

tween the combatants, and constitute the bearers of despatches
as well as are the purveyors, unless the attack is to capture
women and children to sell to slave dealers to transport to
the coast, when the traditional neutrality for woman is totally
disregarded. And I heard many pitiful tales of such captures.
The Masai men frequently sell their own women into captivity,
or barter them awa)-, which is the equivalent. The men are
exceedingly crafty and are great braggarts, indulging in bluster
and threats that can be put to rout by fearless use of the same
measures by one conversant with their characteristics ; totally
deficient in any tender traits, never exhibiting any signs of
affection, and keep their women under foot. They are laugh-
terless, mirthless, having no songs but those of war. They
are die heavy tragedians of Africa, full of theatrical display
in manner and personal get up. When a plain intervenes
between the Masai occupancy and other provinces, contention
occurs over the pasturage nature so abundantly provides,
which is above the necessity ot cultivation, and coveted by
those who are too indolent or possess no ambition to indulge
in a pastoral, peaceful lite. For some unknown reason the
Masai lay claim upon all the land and all of its products,
wherever they list to set foot. They are most brutal and
more licentious than the Chaga mountaineers. Prompted by
sheer wantonness, they capture women from tribes the)- have
accepted truce with, to bestow as a mark of favoritism if not
to sell as slaves upon some of their comrades or subjects
when they have personally wearied of the poor creatures.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Their numbers and overruling spirit of despotism and cruelty
put fear into the hearts of all lesser tribes within the radius
of their excursive periodic raids. However, the)- have met
their match in the Germans, and must either
accept subjugation or stand a chance of
being annihilated.

Contrary to most of the other tribes I
met, who live as a rule upon vegetable and
fish diet, the Masai are meat eaters, and will
pounce upon an animal yet in the throes of
leath when being slaughtered, and hack chunks
of flesh out of its quivering bod)-, and devour
raw, or cut the throats of cattle and drink the
hot flowine blood. When meat is scarce and
the)- are about to enter battle, they go so far
as to make an incision in their own arms and
suck the blood. With all this there is no trace,
no tradition, that they have ever been addicted
to cannibalism pure and simple. I partook ot
blood brotherhood with them when a white goat
was the sacrificed bond. The)' engage in no
industries, have no avocation but fighting.

Masai warriors were sent in deputations to

MASAI

NECKLACE, wam me of the belligerent, disturbed condition of
their territor)', and I was afforded the extraordinary oppor-
tunity of seeing over one thousand Masai armed and ready
to enter battle, having as an objective point Arusha-jue in

MASAI.

329

the German territory which they had but recently been forced
to evacuate by the Germans. The sight was certainly a
magnificent spectacle, equipped, armed, and adorned with
their picturesque paraphernalia, faces daubed with paint,
splendid masks matle of masses of ostrich and vulture
feathers, plumed at the top with fine sweeping feathers, lions'
manes, and white bits of Colobus monkey hair; huge vulture
feather rufis about their necks, and even encircling their
faces, and enormous feather
panniers around their thighs;
here and there a warrior with
an entire Colobus monkey-skin,
slit in the centre, through
which he had thrust his head,
and the tail and long hair blow-
ing- straight out in the wind;
from his shoulders wildly floated
in the breezes a ncbara made ^'asai nebara, white and red cotton.
of stripes or figured red and white cotton cloth, and a long
hyena tail decorated with a lion's mane, and Colobus monkey
tails swinging from his shoulders as an emblem of war, —
forsooth the African shoulder chip ! About the warriors
waists was strapped goats' hides, into which they thrust their
knives ; below their knees, and over long oval iron bells a
strip of Colobus monkey-skin, with the long white hair stand-
ing straight out like a pennant, and similar adornments on
their ankles ; and the leaders wore strapped across their

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

shoulders a leather quiver, containing a supply of ostrich
feathers to refurbish their masks : they all carried a long
fine Masai spear, which they never throw like Asagai, but run
antl thrust at their victims, always retaining the weapon in
their gras]) ; and use to parr)' blows splendid
cowhide elliptical shields from three to four
feet high and a foot and a half broad,
embellished with archaic designs ■ some-
what varied, but the colors em-
ployed are invariably white,

^T dark red, and black.
The bells jangle as
the yelling, fierce men
dash and manoeuvre.
With all their ferocity
there is, as I hax^e said,
a great deal of sham
and bluster about the Masai. Al-
though considered the bog)-men of Africa, I am of the
opinion that any leader of nerve and self-possession need
have no fear when the)' threaten an immediate attack. A
warrior, hideously bedecked in his war paint and war tog-
gery, having heard that I refused to pa\' Invigo to the
Masai who tried to e.xact it from me whilst at Kimangelia,
and not in Masai land, came rushing up to me brandish-
ing his spear violently, then uplifted It as though he aimed
to cleave me in two, plantetl it into the ground before me,

MASAI.

331

yelled in a deafening tone as he bounded high in the air,
"Wow! wow! wow!" Quick as a llash, I reached behind me
and seized my gun, rushed forward with it, pointing the
muzzle towards him, and in tium j-elled, "Wow! wow! wow!"
discharging it in the air. Suffice it to contess, [ own that
spear. It was never called for.
It cannot be denomi-
nated as either a gift,
or a find, or a cap-
ture.

At this moment 1
became greatly excited
in my desire to take photo-
graphs, and betrayed myself into
a ridiculous situation. From a lurking
place where I sought to evade observa-
tion, for more than all other tribes the
Masai have a dread of a camera, sud-
denly a large body of warriors, all accoutred, passed in
full view. Impulsively I turned, seized what I presumed
was my camera, pulled oft the supposed cap, and lo and
behold ! it was tlie stopper of my water bottle ! I was per-
fectly deluged with the contents, and the only picture I could
claim was an aquarelle. So much for blind zeal !

Spitting on gifts and upon faces and at people is carried to
a great pass among the jNIasai. They are polygamists ; their
religion is fetish. They indulge copiously in the wassail

MASAI WO^rEN.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

bowl, however; intoxicated or otherwise they are aggressive,
quarrelsome belligerents, quite in contrast to their arcadian
neighbors. Their leatures m-e not specially negroid, and
their color is variable ; hands and feet small. But on the
■whole rather an impossible, barbaric people to effect mucii b)'
way of civilization upon, for a long time to come, meanwhile
they may be annihilated.

Masai women have not the privileges or rights that exist

among the more pas-
toral tribes, ex-
cept as spies
and purveyors.
They own no
proj^ert)' what-
ever, where-
MASAi liiiAss COLLAR. as the Chaga and

Taveta women hold and keep their own propert)' ami may
acquire more. So disregarded are women, that in some
Masai districts five large pigeon eggs, blue or white, green
or amber colored glass beads will purchase a woman, whereas
it takes ten of the same beads to purchase a cow ! They
milk cows and goats in the dark. They avoid catching the
last glance of a dying person's eye, alleging that, it they do,
after death the spirit of the departed will hold the un-
fortunate victim under a spell for evermore.

My full-dress reception, among the Masai, came very near
attaining the proportions of a calamity, as it incited some of the

MASAI. 333

audacious young- warriors with a desire to carry me off, and they
had made a plan which was secretly imparted to me by a Masai
woman, who hail taken a ijreat likinsf to me. Hence the little
unpleasantness was averted in good time. The annexation
was not effected.

The greetings and salutations are somewhat more poetic
than that of other tribes. A niziinga is met, a woman cries out,
" Good morninor, son of a good mother, father ol orood sons";
and to me they said, " Good morning, mother of good sons."

All the Wa-Chaga have a poetic way of measuring time.
When they speak of noon it is, " When the sun is as a
brother," meaning thera is no shadow ; morningr is, " when
sun flies as an arrow to there," pointing over head, and when
the sun is sinkin"' and one walks towards it, it is designated
as " an enemy skulking at one's heels." All tribes mark
time by pointing when the sun shall have or has reached a
certain part oi the heaven. A messenger replied to mj'
demand to know how soon we should reach a certain point,
" To-morrow and the to-morrow of to-morrow and the night
of another morrow you will get there."

334

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER XVI.

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS.

^EPARA HAMIDI BIN ALI, my head-
man of headmen, a freeman, born, I
believe, at Pemba Island, near Zanzibar,
a Mohammedan, endowed with amaz-
ing attributes of refinement and in-
telligence, upright, strict, possessed
of just the right order of qualities to
manage the affairs reposed in him, a
man who never shirked duty or dan-
ger, whereas he never injudiciously
courted the latter. The Sultan of Zanzibar particularly recom-
mended this man to me as faithful anel far above the averagfe
headmen. He had by his thrift accumulated considerable
wealth, and was generally accounted to be among the Zanzi-
baris a mzai, or wise man, a hiur^ia, or master. Although I
made a rule not to commit even to Hamidi my real object in
visiting Africa, other than the safari was destined for Masai
land, I was obliged every night or every morning to inform
him what I aimed to accomplish during the next twenty-four
hours, in order to secure harmony in the caravan and have

-f-»s,-." -

HEROIC IIAMIDI AND OTHERS. 335

him second my orders, and he could distribute these orders as
he saw fit to the subordinate headmen and all of the porters.

I had many evidences of his pronounced tact ami admirable
manaeement of Zanzibaris, and found him most obedient to my
slightest wish, until we were in Masai land, when, to my sur-
prise, after saying, " Hamidi, to-morrow we will make such and
such a safari beyond the frontier," in a measure simply to feel
m)' wa\- and see if he had heeded certain rumors
bruited about respecting the turbulent state '^
in which the Masai then were, he turned
and said, " Bebe Bwana, I will not conduct
you thither ; the danger is too great."

" Then, Hamidi, do )-ou mean to say that ^^
you disobey my orders ? "

He turned round and faced me, looking
square into my eyes without hesitation, and .masai mask.
replied, " Bebe Bwana, I swore to the Sultan of Zanzibar and
to Bwana Mackenzie to protect )'ou as far as I could from
all danger, and to pive you m\- life rather than harm should
come to you. Bebe P>wana, take these pistols," and he
drew his revolvers from his belt; "kill me, but I will not go."

There was a heroic majesty about the man ; I took the
proffered pistols, and whether he misinterpreted ni)- movement
I know not ; he opened his kaiisic without demur, and stood
stoically with his breast bared before me.

" I am ready, Bebe Bwana."

" Hamidi, go, or I shall be tempted to do something rash.

336

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Let me think it over, and whether
yon go or not I yo into Masai
land, ^'on and the rest of )our
goats ma)' stay behind. I go into
Masai land at sun-up to-morrow
morning."
Before da)break I heard Hamidi's
voice without ni)- tent, saying pathet-
ically, " Bebe Bwana, I must speak
to you."

" Well, Hamidi, what is it?"

" I am sorr)' to have
ve.xed }'ou, Bebe Bwana;
if you go into Masai
land, I will go too.
I might as well be
killed one place as
another." And this
fine man, as heroic
,' and chivalrous and
loyal as any white
defender of a leader
could possibly have
MASAI SPEAKS AND SHIELDS, been uudcr the cir-
cumstances, succeeded in dissuading
me from what wcnild have been not
onl)' a most hazardous undertaking,

HEROIC HA.MIDI AND OTHERS.

00/

but wcnikl tloiibtlt'ss havt; rcsultccl in the entire lootiny of
m)' caraxan and annihilation of the Zanzibaris, no matter
what might have happened to me.

Another word about this noble fellow. \\'ht;n I would have
the men ranged in line and file, assorted in groups, such and
such men with ulcers, those with stomachic difficulties, those
affected with sunstroke, etc., in making my daily round to ad-
minister to their maladies, Hamidi would walk beside me, and
when he came to
a man who care- /sf^.
lessly extended \,(^"
a dirt)' loot cov-
ered with mud, he "^«->''jSm
would seize him by
the neck and exclaim, «»;

" You toad ! o'o to the water;

don't )ou know better than to
put a foot like that before Bebe Bwana ? " He always evinced
the desire to compel, when necessary, certain respectful hom-
age from the porters, which proved most grateful to me.

Hamidi called my attention to the fact that many of the
married women of Chaga and Ta\eta wear a leather loin-
cloth which covers the hips antl falls half-way to the knees,
with a long, sash-like pendant at the side, embroidered and
loaded down with glass and metal beads and chains, the
leather colored with yellow clays, avowing he could not pro-
cure one. There is a certain superstition connected with these

CHAGA MEIAL CHAIN UIRDLE.

33S SULTAN TO SULTAN.

leather cloths which has a very strange import as revealing an
innate idea of faithfulness, if not of tenderness, according to their
conception of such a quality on the part of the women for the
men w'ith whom they are associated by marriage. The)' have
never been known to sell, give, or barter one of these cloths
after having worn it, until I procured the one in my posses-
sion. The reason for this is very rational from their stand-
point, considering the people from whom it emanates ; the
idea that if they should give to anj- mzunga such a cloth, or
he should obtain it in any way, the woman would be under
some sexual subjection to this man ; that he could throw over
her a spell at any time, wherever she might be, however
unwilling the woman should feel ; he could take her from her
husband and tribe to the ends of the earth.

When 1 argued with the women that 1 was a woman, a
bcbc like themselves, that I could not possibl)- work such
magic over them, and that it would be a graceful thing for
one woman to give to another woman such an evidence of
her friendship, they argued and protested at first, always
refusing to comply with my request ; then as I made firmer
friendship with them, bestowing gifts and kindnesses upon
them, possibly administering to them medically if they
chanced to be overtaken with illness, the heart of one
woman softened towards me and she professed that she was
willing to give me her cloth if her husband would only con-
sent, for which fa\or 1 avowed my willingness to give her
sufficient material and beads to make two others. Yet she

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS.

339

kept settling back in wonderment over the peculiarity of my
request, and that I, a woman, and the master of a great
caravan, could possess her cloth and yet not care to possess
her. However, after the lapse of many clays and recurrent
consultations with her husband, and all manner of blandish-
ments on m}- part, she followed my safari over fifty miles,

LARGE MASAI NEBARA.

and finally came and tossed it into my tent, exclaiming,
" Bebe Bwana, take it, take it; you are my sister, take it!"
This episode goes far to evidence how much superior in
some ways is the position of a woman going among this
tribe over that of any man, however crafty and savant he
might be, and it is only illustrative of many other occur-
rences during my safari, revealing to me the habits and

340 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

customs and the family life and relationships of the natives.
These leather cloths once worn never change ownership,
even amongf women of the same tribe, but are burned or
buried with the wearer upon death. As have other travellers,
so have I two or more perfectly new samples of these cloths.
The Wa-Kahe cling with great fidelity to a marvellous
superstition quite Egyptian in its doctrine of transmigration
in connection with the Colobus monkey which inhabits their
forests, to which, however, no other tribe gives credence.
They believe that the spirits of their ancestors transmigrate
and possess the bodies of these white and sable creatures,
hence, under no circumstances whatever, will a native of
Kahe kill or consciously permit one of these beautiful sim-
ians to be killed, and on approaching the forest where they
abide in great numbers, the WaT<ahe observe an ominous
silence and cast furtive glances as they pick their steps with
precaution and hesitation that would seem to indicate verita-
ble belief in their superstition.

Leaping from branch to branch of the tall trees the
Colobus monkey presents a beautiful apparition ; their bodies
when fully grown are two feet long from muzzle to root of
tail, and covered with a very thick, long growth of soft silky
hair, jet black on the back and belly, and silvery white on
the sides. Their tails are from two and a half to three and a
half feet long, and perfect plumes from root to tip of spot-
less white hair. The Masai and other tribes, to the horror
of the Wa-Kahe, hunt these monkeys, considering their

HEROIC HAMim AND OTHERS.

341

beautiful pelts as great troijhies, and desirable trophies and
effective accessories for personal adornment.

Wa-Kahe use bows and arrows and spears when they can
procure them. They cultivate fine plantations and possess
vast bee ranges, which incite maurauders : thev hunt and
engage in minor blacksmith work.
Various furs, the principal being the
H)Tax, are used to protect them
from the icy breath of Kibo, and
their huts were rather on a
better order and of more
artistic shape than those pre-
viously seen by me. Gran-
aries are placed on stilt-like
supports, and resemble huge modern
beehives, made of heavy braided or
roped grasses. Many tribes hang ^
up their produce and harvest inside
the slanting roofs of their huts, and
the appearance is much the same as
a farmer's barn or garret in ci\'ilized
countries, prompted measurably by leather beaded loin-cloth.
the same necessities. Tree granaries differ in no wa)' from
similar granaries in other lands, excepting the use of the
raphia palm leaves, which frequenth" attain a growth of
thirty feet in length, and constitute an admirable thatching
which sheds the water over the grarnered harvest when once

342 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

suspended from the branches of the selected trees. Utility
is marked on all sides. Many strange and multicolored
mosses bearded the trees, presenting the guise of the be-
mossed trees of a Florida swamp. There were gray parrots,
but not in any great numbers. The ornaments of the
Wa-Kahe very much resemble those of the \\'a-Ta\eta,
varied with an occasional string of Masai beads or trinkets,
and beads from other tribes.

By tying together the ends of a large waterproof sheet, and
suspending it between trees or poles, I had instituted the habit
of catching rain water. Natives witnessing this would always
examine the fabric in wonderment, and would essay to do the
same thing with pieces of cotton cloth they procured from
the porters, going through with similar arrangements ; but, in
consequence of the thinness ot the cloth, the result was gen-
erally unsatisfactory. In passing, these trifling circumstances
are mentioned in evidence of the natives' susceptibility in
appropriation of useful ideas, and it shows that their brains
have the same receptiveness one looks lor in children.
Failing, they naturally concluded tliat there was a peculiar
charm about the "imperia" of Bebe Bwana, and one covetous
sultan was inciteil to command a )outh to steal the water-
proof sheet of my Palanquin. He was discovered in the act
and captured, and brought by Mamidi as a prisoner one long
day's march after me. His family had sent, as ransom for the
boy, after returning the stolen cloth, a cow, two goats, four
sheep, anil a (juantity of fruit. Unfortunately, I was pro-

o
z;

HEROIC HAMTDI AND OTHERS. 343

hibited from acting in accordance with the dictates of my own
feelings, being in German territory; hence there was nothing
left for me but to hand the boy over to the resident officers
at the first station, and enter a plea for leniency and mercy.
I was prompted to make a personal aftair of it by the touch-
ing display of anguish of the boy's aged mother, fearful that
her son would be consigned to death, as well as by the boy's
own contrition. He was freed after a day's make-believe
incarceration and five sticks, and his promises for good deport-
ment in the future. He came rushing to me full of gratitude,
prostrated himself fiat on the ground, spat upon my toes,
arose and tossed at me armfuls of grass furnished by his
mother, and quite voluntarily offered to carry a load for a day
or more. I cite this to show that these natives are capable
of feelings of contrition, as well as of oratitude.

In attestation on the side of their sentimental nature, a
little Kilema maiden, seeing that 1 had no rings upon my
hands, murmured very deploringly, "Poor Bebe Bwana ! no
rings!" Then, with a sudden and spontaneous accession of
generosity, she slipped from her own fingers her numerous
metal rings, exclaimed as she proffered them to me and as
I was about to place them on m\' fingers, " Bebe m'zuria
Sana!" — lady very beautiful! — and settled back upon her
heels, admiringly gazing at me with her own denuded hands
clasped across her equally nude abdomen. Luckily 1 suc-
ceeded in taking a photograph ot her at this juncture, which
is expressive of the situation.

344

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

One day, when we had just started out, I said to Hamidi,
"Look you, man. I cannot talk to these black tellows in this
wa}' ; they crowd too close to me. 1 must have something to
stand on." He immediately issued an order that every porter
who desires henceforth to speak to Bebe Bwana must first init
down his sanditki (box) for Bebe Bwana to stand upon, and

FOUR HEADMEN.

this was maintained throughout the entire journe)-. When
I saw a porter during camp hours coming towards me bearing-
one box or two, according to his height, upon his head, 1 knew
he had some com|)laint or request to pour into ni)' ears ; and he
woukl |)ut down one box, and say, "There!" anil put down
another and repeat, "There! " and wait until 1 had mounted on
the extemporized tlais. Then he would begin his complaint.
It was the source of a "reat deal of amusement to the officers of

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS. 345

various stations, as I passed through sections where the Ger-
mans or Enghsh were established, to witness this httle by-play.
Presently the natives were likewise inoculated with the idea
that I must not be spoken to unless I occupied some point of
eminence ; so they would indicate with their tongues or with
their spears a stone or a hummock, and say, " There ! " and
when I would mount upon it, they would make a salaam and
proceed with their business. One day, standing upon a stone,
while the men were taking their noonday smoke and rest,
surrounded by fifty or sixty young warriors and young girls,
in Kilemi, I tried to engage the attention of the natives;
and to a young girl, whose eyes were riveted in amazement
upon me, and who nervously kept pursing up her mouth, I
said, " Do this," and I whistled. With the erreatest elee
and merriment all the girls commenced to whistle, and one
buxom fellow who stood well to the fore among the group,
otherwise he would never have taken the liberty, com-
menced to whistle. The girl turned round and eave him
a smart slap on the face and said, "You are not a girl,"
thenceforth he was the butt of .so much merriment that he
was obliged to retire to a remote spot for refuge.

To return to Hamidi. If there was any curious thing
that he chanced to discover, article of wearing apparel or
ornament, or a fine spear, he at once managed to have
its possessor come to me, and whilst standing apart, unseen
by the native, with a significant glance at the article
and at me he would quietly say, " Ha-penda, hi?" (do

546

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

you like it?) If 1 would nod or say, "Yes," he would reply,
" \'er)' well, you shall have it," and in due course, whether
as a gift from the individual, or whether it was paid for by
me or by him, the coveted article became mine.

1 was surprised one day to have Hamidi enter m\- tent,
aying, " Bebe Bwana, that thing must be
left." What "that thing" was my looks
revealed I ielt in some doubt. He touched
a chameleon, which I had carried because
the little thing seemed to have attached itself
to me in the course oi my march, and upon
incjuiry, "W'h)?" he said, "The men think
that it pertains to witchcraft." I found
my porters throughout the caravan full
of abhorrence oi all crawlino- thinus, and
reluctant to have such tolerated by me ;
so 111)' little pet was abandoned, and I was tor-
mented by swarms of flies and mosquitoes it
had protected me against.

As my readers have discovered, another
ORYX BEisA BULL, charactcr in the cara\-an was Josefe, m)' head
interpreter. He was the wag and life of the camp. He
spoke twenty-seven dialects, English particularly well, and
had been emplojed so constantly upon war-ships going to
different ports, that he had all the mannerisms of a laddie of
the sea; and when I would call, "Josefe!" he would immedi-
ately straighten himself up, pull his coat together, touch his

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS. 347

head with his hand and say, "Aye, aye, sir." I announced
to my Zanzibaris, "When [osefe tells you what I say, it
is as if I spoke"; he was afterwards dubbed "the trumpet
of Bebe," not before me or in my supposed hearing;
but time out of number I heard merriment rinof throueh-
out the encampment when Josefe would circulate about
giving utterance to an order. He was personally full
of curiosity and interest to see and hear everything con-
cerning the natives whom we visited, as it was his first
commission, as he called it, in these parts, anel was ever
on the alert to keep me informed as to what was going
on, and from time to time narrated to me many of the
stories which were current, many only of topical interest,
requiring their own setting to carry any wit or meaning.
He seemed very much pleased with his position of gcntlc-
man in attoidance. His vanities I himiored as best I could
by giving him white and blue yachting coats to wear, and
by having extra gold-band decorations sewn on his cap to
identify him from others, and was ne.xt to Hamidi in impor-
tance. I confess I rather revelled in his swao-pferine manner
and braggadocio speech and assumption of dignit)', but found
him a capital elbow man.

The habit of regarding me as a man, and not being quite
able to reconcile my office witli that of a woman, was shown
throughout my safari by the men who were my personal
attaches. I would open my tent-flap and say, "Boy!" Back
would come the answer, " Sabe ! " (sir); and they never got

348

SULTAN TO SUI.TAN.

over it. If I addressed a porter he would respond, " Dio,
Bwana " (yes, master).

My body servant, gun-bearer, and cook had been with
.some of the most distinguished travellers on extensive safaris.

exil,ui;us m on kiiN -.skins.

and were experienced and inured to caravan lile and hard-
ships, and knew the country fairly well from actual knowledge
or throuoh hearsay. Their raam/cr of the different charac-
teristics of the iiiznnga whom the)- had ser\-ed, revealed too
often the old saying that a man is never a hero to his valet,
nor above the scrutiny or criticism of those whom he com-

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS. 349

mands. They are very close observers of actions and words,
and make some \er)- astute deductions. When they are
favored by the Inoaiia of a caravan, the)' become jealous of
any one who invades their legitimate or self-imposed duties,
and are guilty of man\- little spiteful acts to regain their lost
empire, and lose no chance to depreciate the invader. For
example: my boy, Ramezan, could not endure the thought
that I would allow an)- one to make my bed or brush my
clothes but he : and my other boy, Baraka, who assisted in
serving my meals, was equally jealous ot his function as but-
ler. But these two lads throughout my safari served me with
as great and efificient attention and cleanliness as if they had
been trained under the most exacting teachers in a European
household. I have previously written I never sat down in the
open on a box, using the top of its duplicate for a table to
eat from, but they put a dainty little tablecloth over it,
and laid the cover with a certain amount of style and pomp,
serving my meagre meals in courses. I think travellers
who are deprived of these refined evidences of civilization
in making long safaris are likewise deprived of an intimate
knowledge of the capabilities and adaptabilities of the blacks
about them. Besides, it all tends towards maintaining self-
respect, and accentuates personal prestige, which is so sig-
nificant in the eyes of the African, whether he is a porter
or a free and independent native.

When we were in camp for a da)' there would be a gen-
eral washing of all of the clothing of the caravan, which

350 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

would be taken by them to a stream or pool and washed,
and their tent covers cleansed, and all of my soiled clothing,
although it never was allowed to accumulate, washed by the
women. The little tricks resorted to in order to obtain soap
from me were certainly amusing. Although my stores suf-
fered in consequence of these inroads upon them, I feigned
indifference, knowing I had plenty. The Swahali, as a rule,
are very clean about their persons and clothing, and never
lose an opportunity of taking a bath (or washing) on safai'i.
They usually carry one or two changes of clothing. Rame-
zan, my bo)-, said one day, speaking ot some natives who
were not cleanly, " Bebe Bwana no likee ; smellee badly;
Ramezan cleanee; Ramezan sweetee. Bebe, give Ramezan
some soapee. Ramezan washee, makee sweetee." I gave
him a piece of soap, going through the formula ol request-
ing him to return the remnant, which he seldom did. As it
was his duty to wash the napkins and tablecloths, I had
great difficulty in supervising economy on this score, for I
had charged him never to serve a meal with soiled linen.
Soap, in Ramezan's hands, seemed to melt into nothingness
in a moment, the secret of which, of course, was that he
used it for his personal bathing purposes, and to whiten his
own clothes. He was fastidiously neat and clean. This fact
conduced largel\' to my comfort.

Although I had been strongly advised to take women
porters and women to wash and for other duties, I toimd the
few I had a perpetual nuisance. They were always inciting

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS. 351

disputes among' the porters, and resorted to all sorts of meas-
ures to win from them portions of food and other things
which they coveted. One little woman, who happened to be
m admirable cook, would volunteer her services to groups of
porters who messed together, was like a fatted pig at the
end of the safari, having received in payment for her ser-
vices as cook the pick of their rations. This little woman,
who carried her full load
daily, frequently was in
danger of being swept
down the torrential
streams, which we had
to ford or swim, and I
found it necessary to de-
tail a strong, tall porter j
as life preserver to get
her safely across. How- an old masai warning me.

ever, I have this to say of the women porters, they com-
pared admirably with the men both in staying qualities and
strength, doing their day's march with no more complaining,
besides having superficial duties either incumbent upon them
or volunteered, which the men had not. Certainly I was
personally deprived of their aid in consequence of the des-
perate and helpless illness of one I took to serve me, to
whom I had to relegate every woman to nurse, besides
detail a dozen or more porters to carry and guard when
encamped against the intrusion of natives.

352 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

It was a constant source of amazement to see what the
porters would from time to time produce from their mats in
the way of varieties of beads and other trifles, and the way
in which they converted their ration-cloth into garments or
transformed a turban into tents. Needles were always in
demand. They sewed with thread drawn from the woof of
cotton cloth when that they had brought on reels was used.
Not only do they sew neatly but with rapidity; and upon
occasions where needles were given out to string m)- trade
beads, which were counted before distribution and again on
their return, out of one hundred possibly ten might be
returned, the missing number were always lost. Then I
would say to the porters, "Let me examine your hair"; and
often I have found ten or twelve needles secreted in the
thick woolly pad surmounting their heads. I discovered
that they put for safe keeping all of their little treasures
under this clump of wool until they were needed or could
be bartered to each other or to the natives. After a stated
time, when the heat became oppressive, and their wool too
long and burdened with vermin, every head in the caravan
was shaved smooth. Several men among the porters who
were good barbers were employed by the others at a nom-
inal fee to perform this office. This naturally ended the
needle pilfering, and simplified the characteristic search for
vermin, which seems indigenous to Africa, and meets the
eye on all sides. The few rupees they carried from the
coast, and the beads received for posho, would be tied

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS. 353

in the corner of their cloths, or deposited with one of the
headmen, until required by them.

The headmen, askari, antl interpreters never carrj' loads
excepting during times of emergency ; and when there are
any sick who must be carried, if the caravan is small and
porters scarce because of desertion or illness, the askari
and others are detailed as carriers.

The manner in which a turban, worn by a porter to
ease the weight of the loatl from his head, will be whipped
oft in a moment when a camping ground is reached, is
interesting. Then, with two or three forked sticks cut from
the immediate bushes or trees, he makes a dainty little tent,
and carefully sweeps the ground within with a bush besom,
and lays down clean grass, puts his belongings inside, and
joins a group of porters with whom he messes. Then the
cooking commences, and he rushes off — if he is not per-
sonally attending the pot — to gather more wood or, perhaps,
in answer to mj- call, to fetch fuel for my fires. He changes
his body-cloths, puts on a little white cap, which he has
perhaps not yet finished, and the threads may be hanging
loose, and takes up his position to sing or talk in a loud
voice, telling — if he has visited the place before — what
happened when Bwana So-and-so was encamped here last
year, or ten years before. Their minds seem to have
marvellous retentive powers. Things may be exaggerated
somewhat by their imagination, but, on the whole, I found
that many of their stories were quite accurate, and had

354 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

been vividly impressed upon their minds by certain incidents
known to more than one porter in the caravan, and would
fairly coincide and corroborate each other.

Their trifling manifestations of vanity amused me immensely.
Every porter carried a mirror. When in camp he would seek
out a quiet corner and pull out his mirror, take his tooth-
sticks, and, while admiringly gazing at himself, would polish
his teeth and make some little arrangement of toilet, comb
his hair, or polish his scalp, and cant his cap in a coquettish
way a little over one ear, and then, with great satisfaction,
pull himself together and meander up and down through
the passages between the tents, assuming the air of a
dandy who was thoroughly satisfied with himself.

The picking of the mimosa thorns from their cloths, which
would sometimes form a perfect nap over the entire face of
the cloth, and the jabbing out of their flesh thorns, which
they do in an almost merciless manner, occupied much atten-
tion. These thorns, and also bits of flint which had become
imbedded in their feet during a day's march, are usually
gouged out — in a three-cornered piece of flesh embodying the
thorn or flint — either by their own hands or the kind offices
of a friend, and they never flinch or seem to mind the
operation. But when I got a thorn in my foot, they made
delicate arrancrements for its removal. Two or three boxes
were laid down, with rugs upon them ; then I was ceremoni-
ously requested to be seated, and to bare my foot. The
porter who had assumed the duty of removing it, having

HEROIC HAMIDI AND OTHERS. 355

washed his mouth and polished his teeth, asked me for
"sweetee water" — which was cologne — and copiously bathed
his face all over with it, rinsed out his mouth, and then put
on his clean kansti. He then lay fiat on his stomach on the
ground at the end of the box on which my foot rested, with
his hands stretched on each side so as to avoid touching me,
and saying, " Inshallah, Bebe," which is equivalent to " With
your permission, lady," with his lips parted and his teeth
thrust forward as far as possible, and pressing steadily and
forcibly about the thorn until he had it well clinched between
them, he pulled it slowly but firmly out and held it in his
teeth, and came and dropped it by my side for my inspec-
tion. As a master of surgery, he asked for a piece of cotton
wool, and after dipping this in grease, he daintily bandaged
my foot. This important ministration ended, he would start
on a dead run to his tent to tell with boast and flourish to
his comrades the service he had rendered Bebe Bwana.

With great ceremony Josefe informed me that a boiite-
sale was to take place among the porters. This aftair was
a general auction of all superfluous articles, bottles, and
curios. The fun they provoked by the bidding was irresisti-
bly contagious.

356

SULTAN TO SULTAN .

CHAPTER XVII.

SULTAN MIREALI.

-jS we approached Marungu, Sultan Mi-
reali's province, had crossed the
last ravine, and were ascendins,'' the
last hill to his bonia, a very stony,
difficult pull for my weary porters,
there could be heard the buzz and
hum of distant voices, occasionally
a strident tone would override the
others, and on searching; for a solution of the hubbub, I de-
scried at the crest of the hill, roughl\- estimated, two or three
thousand people, making a spectacular sight decidedly intensi-
fied by the bright red that seemed to prevail in their flashing,
ample vestments, as the}' moved and circled about with consid-
erable agitation, like swarming bees, at one time converging,
then spreading out and scattering, only to crowd again together
ami return ; and, as we neared, I discovered that the pivot
of attraction consisted in a personage standing upon a huge
bowlder, a native, tall and distinguished, who appeared a perfect
guy, tricked out in a pair of German military trousers, with
side stripes, a white knitted shirt with a brilliant pin on the

<
O

SULTAN MIREALI.

357

bosom, a celluloid high collar, a cravat of the most flaminof
color, a striped woollen Scotch shooting-coat, a flamboyant
pocket-handkerchief, and a j^air of Russia-leather shoes, expos-
ing blue silk clocked socks. His fine head was disfigured b^-
wearing a black silk pot hat, which was canted backwards,
bonnet fashion, by the long porcupine quill ear ornaments
thrust throuofh the rims of his ears. He carried an Enolish
walking-stick with a huge silver knob, and held in his hands
a pair of kid gloves. This clown then
was Mireali, conceded to be the handsomest r4
native man in East Africa, the
most noble and most majestic sultan ^^ ;.
if not the most powerful. This ^ §• ^
chivalrous sultan, notified by his cou- ?
riers at last, alter his weeks of expect I.
ancy, I was coming, had summoned all

CI- , . , , , DELICATE CHAIN NECKLACE,

oi his subjects — several thousand — to with spiral brass
bid me welcome, and add lustre to the pendants.

honor he desired to pay Bebe Bwana, and to Italicize the
function had ridiculously bedecked himself in this cast-off
finery of various persons of different nationality, who had
but recently left his province.

Remembering that he had been told to uncover in the
presence of a guest, Mireali found himself in a sad dilemma
as to how to do it ; however, one of his many subjects stepped
up behind him and tilted the hat over backwards, and scraped
it off from the embarrassed potentate's head. It is a shame

iSB

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

a man like Mireali should be so imposed upon by those
who should have known better.

When all the salaams and jambos had been effusively
uttered, and Mireali had welcomed me with
great ceremony himself, he conducted me,
followed by my caravan, to his old bom a, which
presented rather a ghastly appearance, for his
father-in-law, brother-in-law, rival, and enemy.
Sultan Mandara of Moschi, had first
looted, then burnt his house to the
; round, and the charred beams and
)ther debris were the only remnants to
be seen of his first advance in civiliza-
tion, for his house had been built by
iSwahali labor and in just such style
as one might find in Zanzibar.
His present boma is sepa-
rated from this site by a rubbled
dry stone fence, about ten feet
high and three and a half in
thickness, upon which usually
disported two or three pet goats,
and frequently all his wives
and the women of his wives
would loom up over this fence
to see Bebe Bwana. As soon
SULTAN MIREALI iM NATIVE AiTiRE. as I had ail oppoTtunit)' of ex-

SULTAN MIREALI.

359

changing a few words with Mireali, when he asked for all the
white men who had visited him, I ventured to say: "Mireali,
why do )ou wear these clothes ? They make you look like a
goat. I want to see you in your own native cloth, and see
you as Mireali, the great African sultan that )ou are." He
hung his head contemplatively for a few moments, then
gazed at me with his fine eyes, said, " Bebe Bwana, yes,,
yes, to-morrow." The
next morning he pre-
sented himself with an
enormous cloth, as
large as four table-
cloths sewn together,
wound around him, and
thrown over his shoul-
ders in the most grace-
ful and artistic manner,
trailing regally behind
him, carrying a long
spear, and backed up by his picturesque coterie of wives
and followers, all in native costumes. The wives all wear
ample pieces of Americana, which is somewhat superior to
the trade gumpty, and quantities of beaded and metal
ornaments. He looked truly majestic as he advanced with
his picturesque cortege, and I could not help recalling some
of the old pictures of Roman senators. His mien was full
of composure, yet not restrained to such a pass as to conceal

PRESENTATION JEWELLED BELT, DAGGER,
AND ORNAMENTS.

;6o

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

his gracious desire to be hospitable, and there was a hirking
anxiety withal, -which manifested itself in his furti\'e glances,
as if he sought to divine what would most please me. In
the course of the day he brought me sheep, with fat tails
dragging on the ground, one or two of which he had been

BEAD GIRDLES WORN SOLELY BY MIREALl'S SUKLVS (WO.MKNJ.

fattening especially for me, and the creatures could scarcely
move, burdened with so much superfluous flesh ; also numer-
ous ofoats, and sent me one cow after another until the number
reached ten. This was a thing unparalleled in East Afri-
can native generosity, for it is conceded that one or two cows
are considered a right royal offering; but Mireali, in his

SULTAN MIREALI. 36 1

eaeerness to know more of me, and make me feel he was
my friend, and to secure my friendship for himself, had noth-
ing in his province he woukl not have bestowed upon me,
had I expressed the desire to possess it. We had many
talks, and I found him intelligent, his brain alert and suscep-
tible of impressions, and with a general discontent with his
condition, and a restless craving to become more as the white
men. Isly finest music box he coveted without any disposition
to dissemble, and was never happier than when watching the
wheels go round, and marking the intonations of the carols.

Finally, in a spasm of desire which overcame him to
possess this box, he came and planted before me his own
personal spear, his sceptre as it were, and said, " Bebe Bwana,
take this and let me have your music box." I gave him the
music box, and a jewelled belt and dagger, happy to pos-
sess the spear.

I queried, " How will you keep this box from being
stolen, as your other treasures have been stolen, by Mandara?"

He led me to an excavation in a secluded spot under
the shade of banana-trees in the middle of his plantation,
which was lined with stone slabs and completely covered inside
with Hyrax and Colobus monkey-skins, and here he placed
his treasure with a jewelled sword I had brought to him from
England, and after covering it up with a heavy slab and
replacing the sod, he said, " Mandara can never find that."
This habit of burying treasures, especially ivory, is universally
resorted to by all African tribes.

362 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

The women, or surias, of his wives are totally nude, wear-
ing decorative beaded ropes, six to twenty-four in number,
around their waists, arms, and legs, with no other attempt
at clothing. They are more beautifully formed than thei'
mistresses, although darker in color, but their features are
absolutely pretty, their teeth glittering white, and they seem
to give a great deal of attention to the decoration of
their bodies with their beads, which are usually white and
i\ pale or dark blue, or solid dark colors,
• -V and dainty in the extreme. They also
wear cloth and leather pendants, which
may be denominated as African fig
,1 leaves. These articles are likewise
affected by many of the men and chil-
dren, and are profusely ornamented with
beads and delicate metal chain fringes.
liEADEEi FIG LEAF. The gTace of these women in moving
about is the grace which affixes to all people who are in the
habit of carrying loads over mountainous countries on their
heads with their bodies erect, and they have the movement
almost of a o-azelle in climbincr and descending the mountains.
This imparts to them a somewhat haughty mien and swing-
ing motion as they approach )'ou without loads. Although
we are in the habit of considering Africans as being simply
progressive monkeys, a species of rudimental human beings,
with their arms awkwardly pendent, hands and feet large and
ungainly, and a certain cattish movement when not shuffling.

SULTAN MIREALI.

and licit footed, I am free to sa)- it is not the case with
these Chaga people. They are great posers when they are
on view, if they hold or have an audience with other tribes,
or the white man is present. Their self-consciousness and
egotistic vanit)- transcend concealment.

I asked jNIireali, " Do you not love one wife better than
another ? "

" Oh, I like them all, but the new
one is the best for to-day ; in a week
I shall afo back to the old, the big
wife, because she knows me better
than the others," he quaintly responded. '

" But these children, how about
them? There are a number."

"Well, yes, they are good little Vi,i,!i:|M.i'ii

goats, but only the first son of the |li^'fsfAvtiil'44'4'M%f^
big wile IS worthy ot my virility. /,',: ■'! iUiWi^Uii^^l .1%-^'^j

lis expression rather perplexed Jy^fZ^^fe™??

3ut later on I learned the true ^''^Pt'li® ll'^^^P' '1

This
me, but later on I learned the true 'ff'.'Sjlp
significance of his phrase and thought, beaded fig leaf.

" Ah me, what exponents of simple honesty and truth these
aboriginals are."

Complimenting Mireali about the neatness and taste dis-
played by the natives in packing loads, he turned around and
acquainted me with a subtle reason I had overlooked.

" A spray of grass, a few seeds, a chewed bit of sugar-
cane ma}" betray any one to his enemy. Watch us ; we never

364 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

go exactly by the same path. Look you, Bebe Bwana, see
there, that woman bounding through the grass. She is the
wife of a well-lcnown Masai, and she is trying to lose her
footprints. By and by she will wade across the water, then,
on the other bank, later on, cross back."

There was so much suggestion in Mircali's remarks, that
from that hour I never ceased watching the natives we
chanced to meet, or those who were pursuing the same
direction, and discovered that they were more or less erratic
in the course of their journey, habitually " losing their foot-
prints." A bev)- of native women carrjing provisions from
sultan to sultan, or merely in the hope of capturing trade
from my caravan when we would halt, at one moment would
be in plain sight, and later on, when we would have crossed
a stream or ascended a craggy steep, they would have van-
ished, subsequentl)' to emerge away beyond to the right or
left of our path from a dense thicket, or were far in
advance awaiting our approach, having cut across countr)-.

It was a fine sight to see these women, almost nude but
elitterino- with their barbaric metal ornaments and bright
beads, fleet-footed, indifferent to hardships or physical hurt,
race up or down the moimtain-sicles, ford rivers, step upon
cruel thorns and sharp blade-like flints, or slide along over the
slippery mud with the lleetness and agility of gazelles, bal-
ancing on their heads heavy loads ot fruit or what not, and
never fall. Ordinarily they will cover thirty miles in a da)-.

One of Mireali's sisters has been the cause of a war with

SULTAN MIREALI. 365

Mandara. She has been euphoniously named the \'enus of
the Mountains, and accounted to be a professional Chaga
beauty. Mireali's demand of forty cows for his sister, Man-
dara would not accede to. .So he stormed Mireali's boma,
but did not capture the prize, although he drove Mireali
away Irom his province temporarih'.

Mireali was under a cloud and not in very great favor
with his subjects because of this defeat. When one of these
sultans are defeated, they evacuate their sultanate and retreat
into the fastness of the mountains until things have calmed
down. The Germans had given their protection to Mireali,
so he returned in hopes some day to lay his despotic enemy
and relation low.

Mireali has not been free from the crime of raiding les.ser
tribes, but he aims to improve himself, and seeks to imitate
the more enlightened wa\-s of the mzninyu.

Mireali represents all that is superior and intelligent
among these tribes. As rival in intelligence he has the
youngest sultan in East Africa, Miriami, who has possessions
in Kilema ; and this young prince, who had performed in
my behalf several acts of real services, for which I strove to
give substantial evidence of appreciation, and had bestowed
upon him all manner of jjresents, I discovered that he
looked .somewhat downcast, when I asketl, "Is there an)'thing
else \ou would like? Are my gifts not to your pleasure?"

He replied, "Ah, dio Bebe Bwana ; but I want an
English saw and an English hammer."

366 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

I asked, "What do you want these for?"
He answered, " Ah, Bebe Bwana, I want to build an
EneHsh house and hve like a white man." I promised to
.send him the saw.

He said doubtfully, "Ah, yes, white men all promise, but
they all forget ; the vizimgu always lies."

I interrupted him .sharply, " Stop, Miriami, )'ou must not
speak to Bebe Bwana in that way. I never lie. I will
send you the saw."

And upon my return, while the delirium was raging- dur-

ino- mv illness, this thiny- haunted
me with other promises I had
made these poor trusting natives,.
AGARY BEADS AND DAWA sud I uevcr rested, day or night,

CHAINS, RARE. ^^^^jj ^^.^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^y ^^^ ^ ^^^]^j

ment, through the consideration of the scrupulous guardian
of my honor, and Miriami has his saw.

So it is, I think, if people when visiting the country of
natives, instead of taking useless, showy trumpery, would
give them implements useful and simple to understand, and
take a little trouble to teach them the uses thereof, they
would be found ready and appreciative people, evincing
gratitude and no mean amount of aptitude.

The natives' sufferings from the cold in these districts,
where the bleak wind rises at four in the afternoon, and
the thermometer falls down to fifty-four degrees and even
lower, is very pitiful ; and although they have quantities of

SULTAN MIREALI.

367

furs, they are constantly asking for cloths and blankets to keep
them warm. Various fibres, papj'rus, bamboo, iiiivhala, and
others, and grasses which abound throughout East Africa,
are susceptible of being converted into frabrics, exactly as
such have been utilized by the people of Madagascar and
Peru ; therefore, if simple looms, without any mechanical in-
tricacies, were introduced, the natives could very soon supply
their own requirements, as well as produce a com-
mercial commodity. I found a variety of wild cotton,
it not cotton certainly a delicate silky, sepia color pro-
duct, covering vast areas, which mieht be cultivated.
The only native-made fabrics I found were sacks
varying from a tiny size only large enough to hold
an &^^ or two, graduating to those large enough
to hold a huge bunch of bananas, on up to dimen-
sions sufficient to entirely cover a hut. One in mv
possession is three feet deep and five feet in cir-
cumference, and took a woman one year steady
work to plait. The twine or cord out of which it
is plaited is made by twisting into very hard strands ^[^pj. ,^y
uru'/iala, or bamboo, fibre ; the women laboriousl\' *"''^-^"-
punch the cord through the foundation braid with a fish-
bone or an iron wire prod. .So closely knit are these sacks
that they hold water after having been soaked. As usual,
the article is colored with }ellow clay, variegated with an
occasional bright red strand dyed with the juice of the
dracsena-bush.

■'-'4 ft

;68

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

SULTAN MIRF.AT.T AND COURTIERS.

SULTAN MIREALI. 369

It does not demand a stress of credulity to believe that
the jewellers who are capable of executing the tedious pro-
cesses required to produce the delicate chain work, of which
I saw so man)' varieties, and the \-ulcans of Chaga land
who can forge such Ijeautiful spears, and also those who
make hide shields, decorate gourds, tan leather, with as great
natural skill as the\' indisputably do now, are capable of much
better things, if onl)- trained.

Mireali has made some \"ery fair examples of candles
out of the beeswax, and he craves lisfht, and no more
welcome sfift did I bestow uoon him than candles, oil, and
soap. He was ambitious to get window glass for a new Swahali
house he was about to erect. They could also, by the Intro-
duction of such simple sugar presses as are used to-day in
Madagascar, express the juice from the sugar-cane, which
grows in great abundance, and provide for themselves this
appetizing condiment, preserving it for such times as there
were no crops, and secure to themselves the benefit of its
nourishment when the harvests failed. Apart from and in
addition to the usefulness of such, they would regard every
new avocation in which they might become skilled as an
amusement ; they delight in the novelties which the white
man brings ; and Mireali showed me, with great pride, twelve
folding wooden chairs, like steamer chairs, and a table ol
his own manufacture, before which he sat while eating, and
he was pleased as a child when I gave him a tablecloth,
some napkins, knives and forks, and a set of little china tea-

"wO

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

cups and saucers, and some tea ; and die most notable after-
noon tea — "a small and early" — I had during my African
season was sitting in his bouia on a four-legged stool, sur-
rounded by his wives and surias, served by Mireali himself
i,\ith a cup of tea of his own brewing, some
sugar-cane, bananas, and an attempt at
\,v bread made from banana flour, a tomato
salad which he concocted himself, with
the flourish of a gormand, and various
other knickknacks from his own
( kitchen. I had taken some boxes
"^ of bonbons, but these people did
not care for them. The boys took
the sugar-plums and used them for
marbles, and shot them out of their
finoers at targets.

o o

Mireali used to sit by the hour
watching me write. When I held a hill-
dress reception, he fell upon the ground
and spat upon the hem of m)- gown,
quite lost in admiration. My blonde wig
particularly interested him, and he brought
DANCING WIG, FRONT VIEW, me Gue of the native's dancing wigs,
made of the white hair of the Colobus monkey-skin, shaped
to fit the head. My court gown was a source of endless
admiration, not only with Mireali, but other sultans and
natives. Mireali wanted to know the kind of cloth it was

\ \

SULTAN MIKEALI.

made of. Josefe put my nationality in pawn by quickly in-
forming him that the silk and silver netting covering it
were fabrics never worn only by white queens, like Bcbe
Bwana.

"Ale!" ejaculated Mireali, "it is then queens' cloth"; and
so the name maintained from that
on, in answer to other questioners.

The larg-e crystal multicolored
stage jewels covering the gown were
from time to time, one by one, removed
to bestow upon the covetous natives, until
not one remained. My bracelets, neck-
lets and rings and shoe buckles were like-
wise relinquished in the same manner. Ii
truth, the bawbles were taken with this enc
in view, notwithstanding the simple natives
deemed my apparent willingness to thus
lavishly bestow upon them m)- beautiful
jewels as a personal distinction, and my
generosity, in their estimation, ranked me
in the light of a millionnaire.

D.4NCING WIG

Whate\'er is the reason I could not as- made of colobus

MONKEY WHITE FUR.

certain, but whenever a native presented

me with an article, if possible, he or she would keep a bead

or two or an ornament or a little bit of chain, no matter what,

only some bit of the present they always were desirous to

withhold.

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Mireali was highly delighted with a powerful sunglass
I presented to him, after showing him how the sun's rays
could be focused to set fire to dried leaves, tow, or paper.
He evinced great excitement, exclaimed in glee, " Bebe Bwana,
now I can stand on one mountain and burn Mandara's honia
and plantations on the other mountain."

In evidence of homage, Mireali danced for me the rua,
in which he is a jaast master. This dance consists in floating
out in the air a long piece of cotton cloth, eight or ten yards
long, one end attached to the body, and whilst the dancer
prances and leaps about he keeps his arms swinging and
casting out in a loop the cloth, striving to have it describe

a circle, and when this is
achieved the dance is at
/ an end. He was so grace-
ful, agile, and skilful, he
put his competitors to
shame. Upon this occa-
sion the moon shone with

DELICATE CHAhM NECKLACE.

its fullest radiance, and the atmosphere seemed to palpitate with
ineffable effulgence, clear dazzling white, as the white of bur-
nished silver; and as Mireali danced, his shadow fell anti llittcd
in a weird, spectral way. It has no parallel in ni)- memory.
Before departing from Marungu it was my good fortune
to take a photograph of a very large group of Mireali's
court. The simple, hospitable folk had gathered about my
tent to implore me to remain, urging, " Stay, Bebe Bwana,

SULTAN MIREALI.

-) 7 -

Stay; you shall be more powerful even tlian all the sultans;
you shall have all the plantations, all the cows, and sheep,
and goats. Stay, Bebe Bwana, sta\'." They never knew they
were thereafter to be my photographic subjects.

Mireali dolorously came to me the morning I made my
adieus, with the frame of a large compact English um-
brella, with a conspicuous silver handle, but lacking every
vestige of cover, — the remains of a gift from an
American sportsman, and which had, in its
normal condition, served during two years to jL
constantly shelter Mireali from the sun and //oA
much-detested rain. He deplored the loss
ceaselessly and in pitiful tones of yearning
queried, "Can Bebe Bwana make it new?"

" No, Mireali, but I will send you one from
London ; meanwhile you shall have one of my
red sunshades." He promptly took the substi-
tute, evidently liked it very much, pronounced
it '"viznri saua" (very beautitul) ; after a tew
circumspect minutes, half ashamed, he again
approached me and hesitatingly asked, so none
micrht hear but me, " Bebe Bwana, don't iorofet
the other mioazuili (umbrella)."

After leaving the boundaries of his prov-
ince, one of his runners came breathlessly into my encamp-
ment and delivered a message from Mireali ; the import of it
was, " that Bebe Bwana must not forget the promise given

USERI BONE
EAR-RINGS.

374

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

to her friend Mireali about the mwaviili" They are so child-
Hke in their dread of disappointment. Even this superior
man could not permit me to get beyond the reach of his
voice without this parting admonition.

Whilst at Marungu, a Wa-Kiboso messenger, attended by
several load-bearers, came to me from Sultan Sina, carrying

a leaf, bearing the imprint ot a
blood-dripped hand, and bring-
ingf as tribute a white goat and a
/||| sheep, the latter so fat it could
1 1 scarcely waddlej and its clumpy
tail dragging on the ground,
akin to the sheep Herodotus
describes, and a superb spear
and shield. He was dramatic
in oresture and almost classical
in figure, with an impressiveness
in diction. Although his lan-
guage was undoubtedly circumscribed, he transcended the
limits of mediocre when he announced, " I am as Sultan Sina,
who sent me, who bade me show you this leaf, and bring you
this goat and this sheep and this spear and this shield, to let
Bebe Bwana know Sina, who sent me, is the friend of Bebe
Bwana." An emissary, sent bv a chief, by a sultan, or merely
by a master, has no individuality for the time being save that
which identifies him with his master, until acquitted of his
task ; and in indicating such an emissary, it is customary to

LONG CHAIN NECKLACK.S.

SULTAN MIREALI.

say, "Mireali, the man," or " Fumba, the man," which is equiva-
lent to sa_\'ing, he is the messenger of the Sultan Mireali, the
Sultan Fumba, or whoever ma)- have despatched
him. These messengers have the most marvel-
lous gift of transmitting not only the import of
the message, but literally word for word, as it
has been imparted to them by those who have
sent them ; they are perfectly imbued with the
sender's thought before starting as an envoy by
being obliged to repeat the message until they
have proficiently committed its letter and sig-
nificance.

I found it an admirable thin^ when instruct-
ing an interpreter respecting any important
^ message, which was to be convejed in my pres-
B ence to the natives, to have two interpreters
^ present, and never heed the one who was
interpreting, but watch the play of expression
3 over the countenance of the one who was listen-
ing, and at the slightest intimation that the
jioscHi CARVED spokcsHian had deviated from my instructions,
WOODEN STAFF, surprise would involuntarily play over his coun-

MASAI DANCIN'G J L J

WAND. STAFF teuauce, and I would check the man and refer

COVERED WITH

IRON RINGS. the matter to the telltale listener, when he
would take up the thread of discourse. In turn I would watch
the other man, who would, in a similar manner, reveal his com-
rade's errors in discoursing, who would likewise be checked and

376 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

the task recommitted to the first man. In this way I avoided
many misunderstandings, and found it an infalHble process oi
discovering carelessness or trickery. When anything was lost
on the road, and it was necessary to send back for its recover)',
three men were usually selected who were not chums, and lull
of distrust for each other, in order to make sure that the article
would ever be returned, il found.

In my caravan were a certain number of fleet runners who
were allotted places near the van and rear, in order that I could
communicate with Hamidi, who alwa^'s brought up the rear, and
vice versa he could communicate with me. It was a pretty
sight to watch these runners disencumbered, with only a gun
and a staff, leap and bound through the grass and over the
rocks, covering the distance like a whirlwind, and return with-
out seemingly having stirred their pulses a particle ; and like all
human beings in any sphere of life who excel in any one thing,
they were proud of the renown they receive from their com-
rades for their practised skill.

CMAKACTERS.

O/ /

CHAPTER XVIII.

CHARACTERS.

'ONGING for music, I was surprised to hear a

dainty little twaneino-, like that which en-
s',-, - & &

''*^Vi^'^ sues from thridding a harp-string. It
was produced by tightening a
bow-string made of sinew
and striking it with the ar-
row, which would rebound
and strike rapidly the string
before a new blow was
6*^ given. The tones were
harmonious. Most of the
native guides have the trick of music-making. In passing
through Sultan Fumba's sultanate, I procured a pan pipe,
sweetly played by a native, and these two musical Instruments
were the only native ones I saw or heard, yet the natives ac-
cepted with delight mouth music boxes I gave them.

Sultan Fumba is considered the most avaricious sultan in
East Africa. However, before leaving this quaint character, I
was able to persuade him to give me every article of clothing- he
wore ; even his crown or cap, which was the same as receiving

378 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

the crown of a European king without his powers. He has for
a prime minister the most crafty creature, who is capable of
doine anvthino- that is sneakinof and mean, but certainly in-
capable of doing aught that is manl)-. I secured an admirable
portrait of him, his prime minister, and his courtiers. Although
he offered every inducement to get me to tarry in his boiita, I
felt safer and happier to jjlace a long distance between his boma
and my camp, and so were my men, one of whom advanced the
following : —

" Bebe Bwana, natives no goodee, no cleanee, smell very
bad, no washee ; Bebe Bwana, me no likee, no, no, no ! "
Ramezan accentuated this protest by significant gestures,
clutching his nose between his thumb and forefinger, in order
to more fully acquit himself of the meaning which his limited
English vocabulary would otherwise fail to reveal. Cunningly,
after watching the effect upon me, he insinuatingly added,
" Bebe Bwana, Ramezan cleanee, very much cleanee, aic ?
Bebe Bwana, give me soap, me go river, me wash table-
cloth, me wash self and cloths. Bebe Bwana, me take huiiduki
(gun), aie ? " All this roundabout method was his naive
way of getting a favor from me.

In truth this boy was scrupulously cleanly, not onl)- in his
person, but in his service to me ; away out on the plains or
in the jungle or in the mountain fastnesses, it mattered not
when or where, daily he served my meals with as much
precision and ceremony as though in civilized lands. Even
when I was compelled to eat from the top of boxes piled

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CHARACTERS.

379

KAMEZAN,
GUN BEARER.

upon one another, and sat upon one, the dainty cloth was

spread, the napkin placed, and the usual array of knives,
n forks, and spoons, and the enamelled dishes
changed for each course. Ramezan had
for an assistant a young fellow of most
J general accomplishments as a body servant
and steward, called Baraka. These two at-
tended to my personal requirements, and
were pretentiouslj' dubbed stewards, looked
after my tent when once set, and, in fact,

Baraka assisted the headmen and askai-i in putting it up

and taking it down, as well as in arranfrino; and collectinp-

small luggage and all articles appertaining

to my personal household. Neither of

these servants were expected to carry

loads, and were ever close upon my heels

ready to serve me. Ramezan carried my

gun and cartridge belt, and a bottle of L

coffee to quench my thirst, his own um- baraka, mv shward.

brella, and sandals and calabash. Baraka carried one of my

cameras, a small medicine case, my rain cloak, a silk gown,

extra wraps, and my umbrella when not in use.

Certainly my gun bearer had something of a load with

the gun, and thirty rounds of cartridges in his belt, besides

his own personal effects, which he would string about him.

They always dressed in pure white, with little white caps,

and did not carry their own mats.

380 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Put my head outside of my tent flap any hour of the day
or night and call " Boy ! " instantly back would come the
answer, " Sabe ! " (sir) ; and to the very last of my safari not
one of my men ever learned to answer me other than " Sir."
Even my intelligent interpreter Josefe would reply from the
distance when I would signal to him by sounding my whistle,
"Aye, aye, sir!" and he never approached me without
touching his hand to his head and presenting arms, extem-
porizing for a weapon his walking staff.

The natives and general porters had encompassed th'e
bizarre situation by calling me Bebe Bwana. My fine head-

SULTAN FUMI3A S
CROWN.

men, with an assumption to show their superiority upon
occasions, would struggle to say " Bebe Bwana Sheldune."
They never could seem to reconcile my sex with my post,
which, in their eyes, indubitably belonged to a man, and I

CHARACTERS. 38 I

was at first abashed to realize that their natural protest kept
inadvertently cropping out in one way or another, despite
their obvious efibrt to conceal their preconceived idea of
common propriety according to the only usage they knew.
It is, therefore, with a sense of personal pride during my
trying expedition, surrounded constantly by these black porters,
the majority of them culled from the roughest specimens of
natives, deficient in intellect, devoid of any certain knowledge
as to the proper attitude that men should assume to a white
woman, and many of them full of brutish instincts, that they uni-
versally treated me with deference and obedience. Never dur-
ing my safari did I see an indecent action on the part of my
porters, who were, of course, more or less subservient to my
commands, but on the part of the natives, who were unre-
strained and free to do as they listed. All this I firmly hold was
due to a certain rcgitnc I adopted, based upon the combined
experience of many wise explorers, and an innate conviction
that individual prestige, consisting in personal dignity and
self-respect on the part of a leader, must be maintained
wherever you may be, if you expect to inspire those whom
you aim to guide and command with your personal importance
and might. Nothing careless is admissible ; no slur of words ;
no meaningless threat ; no hesitanc)' ; no shirking ; above
all, a certain amount of silence which the natives and the
ignorant regard as reser\'e force. A leader is a target of
observation and unmeasured criticism from the lowest to the
highest in the caravan ; and unless on guard at all times,

382

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

Striving to consistently bear out the ideas porters, askari,
headmen, and body servants adhere to as becoming a mas-
ter, in some guileless moment a single heedless action may
cause the leader the chagrin of witnessing throughout the
caravan a state of demoralizing insubordination. Insubordina-
tion in East Africa means a very hazardous thing — possible
dissolution of the entire caravan, and ruination to one's plans,

SULTAN FUiMHA AND SUITE.

if not much bloodshed. Inflexible strength of will is requisite.
Courage, knowledge, dignity, directness of purpose, resolu-
tion, justice, and that most trying of all qualities, patience,
and consideration for the condition of minds of those whose
training and capacity are in contradistinction to your own.

CHARACTERS. 383

Although allowing yourself to be swayed by reason, you must
never vacillate or flinch when a difficult thing should be
done. Scout hardships by sharing them, however ; show
appreciation when irksome service is rendered. Never brow-
beat and sneer at shortcominos, but encourage and stimulate
your men to their best, even if it is done by inciting a spirit
of rivalry. When punishment is deserved, calmly order it
quickly administered, however, not without premeditation, then
afterwards do not persist in holding the culprit under the
yoke of ignominy if he evinces a disposition to redeem his
fault by good behavior. Zanzibaris hate to be kicked and
cuffed about, any time preferring to stand up and take ten
" sticks " to one kick or blow with the fist.

When hardships and utter fatigue pressed heavily upon all,
yet it was necessary to proceed to some known spot where
water could be had, I have said, "Where are the faithful men
in my caravan, where are the brave, strong men who serve me
day and night, among my tired, my thirsty, my hungry, my
sick men, who will march all night to find water and rest
to-morrow ?"

Every man able to stand would push forward to the front
and signify his willingness to continue the march.

For a long time I was unable to comprehend, when a long
day's march was at an end, according to my judgment, if there
chanced to be a stream fronting us or a hill just ahead, the men
invariably manifested a disposition to cross the stream or ascend
the hill. It proved to be from some notion of theirs to start fair

384 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

in the morning, and in case of streams to avoid the discomfort
of marching after an early soaking, for, as they quaintly say,
" Better a stone for a pillow than for a burden next sun-up."
The philosophy of this was beyond question soon, as the rains
came tumblingr down durinor the nicjht, making^ the streams
swollen, and torrential and difficult to ford or swim. The hill-
tops were chosen simply to give to the entire caravan a vantage
ground from whence to reconnoitre the country from all points,
enabling them to descry attempted invasion of wild beasts, or
frustrate the stealthy surprises of hostile natives.

Francez, a porter, who spoke English admirably, a fact I did
not discover for a long time, used to eye me constantly and ever
sought to pitch his little tent near mine. Notwithstanding his
lips might be swollen and cracking and his throat burning with
thirst, when we would reach a stream he never quenched his
own thirst until he had proffered to me a gourd full of the
sparkling water. So unremitting was his scrutiny of me and my
every move, that, I confess, it at times became most embarrass-
ing. Through his vigilance, one of my askari was discovered
in the very act of stealing from my tent while he was on duty.
Through his lynx eyes I was saved being assassinated, one
night, when a thief crept into my tent to steal my gun, and was
about to stab me, when he found I was awake and saw him.
Francez was in my tent, like a Hash, and almost strangled the
poor wretch. He called my attention to various things, and
brought me two prismatic caterpillars ; their bodies were five
inches long, white, and the nodules were prismatic, but the

CHARACTERS. 385

colors not very vivid. Unfortunately, I had no means of pre-
serving them, nor, in truth, any other specimens. Another day
he brought me a bird's-nest, like a tailor bird, and anon pointed
out a lot of brilliant red crabs.. He was also quite as much of a
dabster in making fire with fire sticks as the natives. A native
chanced to pass, the lobes of whose ears had been torn out by
weighty ear-rings, and had been mended by cutting- off from the
ragged fracture a tiny slice of the flesh and joined with porcu-
pine quills, and bidding fair to heal by "first intention"; this
poor native was lured by Francez into my presence, and
wheedled to taking out the quills and separate the broken parts
to show " Bebe Bwana how it was done." He quaintly called
my attention to some native women inebriated, and said, "They
are black women ; the white women never forget themselves
any more than the black sultans."

It is a singular thing that the native women, when into.xicated,
reveal a certain lack of dignity and helpless inebriation that the
men escape. They seem thoroughly brutalized and helpless to
maintain anything like personal dignity or self-respect ; whereas
a chief drunk is always a chief, he never loses the conscious-
ness of his own greatness. I have seen a man, who appeared
almost an imbecile under the influence of liquor, shake himself
out of it all, roused into a sudden consciousness by some one
exclaiming that another chief he was unfriendly to had greater
powers than himself, and, with his returned rationality, condign
the promulgator of such an idea to some great task, or e.xact a
tribute of cows as punishment for his indiscretion. This pecul-

386 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

iarity may be accounted for from the fact that the women let
themselves go when they commence to drink, having no pres-
tige to maintain, with no desire to overcome the intoxication,
but rather to assist its progress. However, the next morning,
after a nightly bout, they appear as fresh and sober as if they
had never tasted their poinhc cups.

However, drunk or sober, profanity is unknown, although
they have a qualified equivalent in "you goat," "you cow,"
"you son of no man's virility." This, however, is the same
among all peoples without a God, or a settled idol, or any idea
of his Satanic highness. It is the privileged vice of those who
know Christianity. Strange to relate, the natives never kiss,
moved by tender sentiment. In lieu of kissing, they may be
observed to clasp the palms of their hands spasmodically, and
impetuously unclasp and press them wide open over the
shoulders, across the knees, or upon the breast of the person
they yearn to manifest their affection for.

Francez brought me, sewed up in a bit of snake-skin, a per-
fumed charm to hang on a tree facing my tent, to ward off an
impending storm, and circled my tent several times, mumbling
some invocation, scattering grass as he walked. This struck me
as being very like the Japanese custom of hanging little paper
messages, variously addressed, upon trees.

My regular caravan numbered one hundred and fifty-
three persons, all told. The official roll call and pay list
may not be entirely uninteresting to my readers; the names
are phonetically spelled.

Q
<

►J
<

H
D

CHARACTERS.

387

1 Hassan Hamis.

2 Tunda Yadi.

^ Oomara Mzuana.

4 Demas.

5 Hamis bin Afman.

6 All bin Hamad.

7 Semba bin Seligman.

8 Sadi bin Seligman.

9 Yabon Lelli.

10 Sadi Wadyuma.

1 1 Meni Youma Kebanda.

12 Suadi bin Youma.

13 Soda Wadiherie.

14 Hamis Wadi .Suroro.

15 Baraka Montonana.

16 Hanna Amore Kombo.

17 Sadi Wadi Farodi.

18 Dosere Wampere.

19 Marico.

20 Unledi.

21 Munombe bin Kombo.

22 Hamid Unquezilla.

23 Selligman Mamwiina.

24 Baraka bin Seligman.

25 Furiozo Wadehaha.

ROLL CALL.
PORTERS.

26 Abdallah bin .Selim.

27 Mabruka Imperia.

28 Kara (Samson of caravan).

29 Franczes bin Sadi.

30 Munisa bin Muita.

3 1 Mari Marabo.

32 Zied bin Yuma.

2)2, Songoro Maneyega.

34 Sali bin Massib.

35 Usofo bin Umari.

36 Hassand Ballonza.

37 Fernza Mardaneff.

38 Safi Mhezila.

39 Wadzuna.

40 Farnza bin Sorora.

41 Ebosie.

42 Sali M'gazilia.

43 Manboy Wah ! Shehongo.

44 Sadi bin Hamid.

45 Hamid bin Hamid.

46 Hamis Wadzied.

47 Francez (spoke English

well).

48 Uled bin Yuma.

49 Hanamoura.

i88

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

50 James.

51 Bryan bin Mousa.

52 Hassan bin Mufta.

53 Seru.

54 Sucl Balleous.

55 Dahoma bin Sellim.

56 Munynamyezia.

57 Yana Hairy.

58 Yuma Wad La Edie.

59 M'Guya.

60 Marbruka Wadzie.

61 Magaza.

62 Hamis Sali.

63 Sadalla bin Seligman.

64 Yacont Samacie.
6s Yuma.

66 Fernza bin Muguro INlari.

67 Hamis Kombo.

68 Umari bin Abdallali.

69 Usinga bin Sali.

70 Usinga.

7 1 Winecomdo.

72 Feruse Ballons.

73 Min bin Gainie.

74 M'Selliam.

75 Uman bif Tuffick.

76 Sehaba.

■]■] Abad.

78 Umanie Wad Suboro.

79 Adie bin Hamis.

80 Hamad.

81 Abdallah bin Yuma.

82 Songoro (prey of lions).

83 Hamis Impera.

84 Wadyuma.

85 Kamonice bin Unsa.

86 Yuma Wad -Sadi.

87 Nasib bin Ulali.

88 Mabruka Nufta.

89 AUamao Muongo.

90 Muntozo.

9 1 Kerv Voto.

92 Menahadi.

93 Sodie.

94 Menahazy.

95 Sali Mohozo.

96 Mugumbo Murarba.

97 Munya Shumarie.

98 Hassand bin Abdalla.

99 Hamis bin Adie.
100 Ferusa Surmari.
loi Alrnass.

102 Umari.

103 Simba Madmamba.

CHARACTERS.

389

04 Abdallah bin Abdad.

05 Minvv Hat-tib.

06 Mabruka Wad Hat-tib.

07 Ali bin Hassan.

08 Kermut (Clement, cook's

boy).

09 Abdallah (cook).

10 Baraka (steward).

11 Ramezan (steward).

12 Lidia (woman).

13 Beda (woman).

14 Suzzan (woman).

15 Burt Hamis (woman).

16 Burt Hamis Mzuria (wo-

man).

17 Abdallah.

18 Hamis bin Barcada.

19 Nedia Hamis.

20 Hamadia.

121
122
123
124

125
126
127
128
129
130

131
132

^33
134
135
136
137
138

Songora bin Hamis.
Wadeyuma.
Demodio Sadi.
Almass.

Morboro du Kombo.
Sali bin Yongo.
Winum Shumaro.
Sani bin Abdulla.
Marbruki Wadi Haftu.
Hamis bin Adie.
Fenesa de Sumara.
Ali bin Hassand.
Simba Vidi Mombo.
Darfurf Wad Ballouse.
Gomorez.

Wadicu bin Huma.
Abdalla bin Hamis.
Winy Hastibu.

ASKARI.

Hamis bin Abdallah.

Hassan.

Adie.

Winikondo.

Safe.

Sumallie.

3 go SULTAN TO SULTAN.

ASKARi {continued I.
Maza bin Kombo.
Hamidi.
Hamis bin Baraca (Pagaiza).

(Took the place of the thief.)

NEPARA.

Hamidi bin Ali (headman of headmen).

Mabruka Keseysah.

Bin Allah.

Ali.

Josefe (chief interpreter).

Umbi Bwana (Masai interpreter).

In addition to these men there were usually forty others,
comprised of volunteers and guides, and porters' slaves.

SULTAN jMANDARA OF MOSCHl.

391

CHAPTER XIX.

Sin,TAN MANDARA OF MOSCHl.

would be impossible to narrate half of
rumors current as to the extremely
crafty and atrocious deeds of the am-
bitious, brutish, and abominable Sul-
tan Mandara ; but without doubt he
is much feared for his cleverness
and duplicity. He is a keen, intel-
igent observer, and a deep student
yf.:i*in his wa)-, despite his marked
deficiency in uprightness, justice,
mercy, or morality. Proficiency in crafts and general knowl-
edge in many diverse avenues have been and ever will be
during his life the keynote of his power among the Chaga
tribes. In the old feudal da}'s of his tyrannical sway he was
a treasonable disturber of all covenants between these tribes,
carrying whatever he listed by force of arms, united with
chicanery, and was seldom defeated. When he wanted war-
riors he levied on some minor tribe, who dare not refuse his
mandates as they valued their freedom or their lives. He
exercised his rights as potentate of Moschi with an imperious,

392

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

overbearing despotism which has about come to an end. Dur-
ing my sojourn at Moschi he set a trap into which he liimself
untowardly fell, in order to possess a ([uantity of ivor)- he had
received information of, through the good offices of some of his
spies, certain minor sultan possessed and had buried, as is the
African custom when treasure is to be safe gruarded, awaitine
an opportunity to dispose of it to a coast-bound caravan, and

MANDAKA, SULIAN OK MOSCHI.

who had injudiciously discovered its hiding-place to prying eyes
in his eagerness to sell it to one of my headmen.

Mandara's avarice set him to intriguing in a hazardous
fashion. He sent his prime minister and other important head-
men of his court to the unfortunate betrayed sultan to inform
him that the Germans were now, as he knew, the rulers of
Chaga land, and that he must pay a tribute of fort)'-five tusks

SULTAN MANDARA OF MOSCHI. 393

of pcmba (elephant ivory) not under two fasilla (seventy
pounds) in weight each antl every tusk. Howeve ■, as he,
Mandara, was ivcll with the Germans, he would graciously
undertake to oblige the sultan, who was his blood-brother
as well as his old friend, b)' convej'ing the ivory by his
safari to the Germans. In a purely confidential way the
prime minister was charged to convey to the si.ltan further
information of the Germans' dealing with their t\rann\', and
that they were about to descend upon him ai.d his tribe
without merc)', because he had been tardy in sending this
tribute, exactl}' as the)* had descended upon the Masai, "with
their big guns that killed a thousand men at one boom."
It sufficed. The ivory was immediately committed to Man-
dara's cara\an, and the terrorized sultan entreated the prime
minister to enjoin upon the great and powerful Mandara
the necessit)- of using his influence to stave oft the wrath of
the Germans in his behalf, and he would send as a reward four
fine milch cows. A few da)'s after this occurrence, Mandara
sent to the German station, saying such a sultan had sent
through him a tribute to them of twenty tusks of fine ivory.
They were received, but in a brief time the (~)fificer in command,
Baron von Witzslaben, learned the true inwardness of the
transaction through hearing of a document written by Mandara,
— who is one of the few natix'es who write, — and demanded
the instant disgorgement of his ill-gotten plunder. Seeing that
he had overreached himself, Mandara feigned a severe attack
of fever, — fever is always an excuse in Africa for disinclination.

394 Sn.'l'AN TO SIT.TAN.

rA disabilit)-, and failure, — and pretended he coultl not
then attend to tlie dcMnantl. P'our Gern^an as/car/ were
sent with the officer's compliments, and the kind conso-
lation that if his Highness was so ill and ditl not see his
\va\' to make speedy reco\er\- before sundown, if the:
balance of the pcinba was not forthcoming, it would
not matter much, gimpowder tea would be ser\ed ;
and the German batteries were, with much parade,
conspicuously turneil in readiness upon Mandara's homa
during the passage of the official message. Of course,
his life would be worthless to him if he was so pros-
trated ; death woukl be a relief to him. An answer
came speedily back to the station from Mandara: —

"Bwana Deitch, wait till noon, soon "Cne pciiiha will
be sent, and two cows as well. "

Meanwhile Mandara's eldest son living — he is re-
puted to have murdered several of his sons, fearful
that in order tf) g^tin accession to his possessions and
sultanate they might be tempted to kill him — was
enticed into the German bonia and genteelly held as
hostaee for anotlier ofience committetl b\- liis tricky
father, that the officer in charge likewise determined
should be adjusted without evasion or delay.

Intrigue seems one of Mandara's fundamental traits
of character, and if not already will very .soon attain
jfa 1 a climax the Germans will not tolerate. Either Sina

AFRICAN

SPEAR, of Kiboso, or Mireali of Murungu, are destined in the

SUI.TAN MANDAKA OF MOSCHI.

395

course of events to depose this arrant knave, if forsooth the
inexorable Germans do not annihilate him and his tribe.
Presumably he thinks, with his civilized brothers, "The king
can do no wrong. " However, the man is not totally bad,
and should be judged in accordance with his environments
morally and physicall)-, and in a manner from his own stand-
point, and the ethics ol the code of the natives as they seem
to be, and not from the remote standpoint of European
enlightenment or by European sentiment or conventions.

Mandara had been exceedingly curious to see a white
woman, and he had offered a gratuity of forty, eighty, and
even one himdred cows if some Arab caravan would fetch him
a white wife. This fact, which was patent to everybody in
East Africa who knew aught of Mandara, had filled the
white men whom 1 met with considerable apprehension
lest I should be detained by him at Moschi or waylaid by
his orders. I was very glad to be forewarned, and determined,
in my own mind, to e.xercise every possible precaution
and be more than guarded when I visited this sultan.

At Moschi I was the CTuest of the German commander, and
he was very averse to my crossing the ravine separating his
station from Mandara's hoina, unless I went under the pro-
tection of the German soldiers. As my policy had been to
go solus to \'isit sultans of importance, without the protection
of any outside power, without government headiuen or soldiers,
I declined this proposition ; and after much solicitation and
man\' presents from Mandara, consisting of cows, goats.

596

SUI.TAN Tl ) SULTAN.

sheep, beautiful furs, I determined to visit him, and did so,
attended by twelve soldiers and an interpreter of my own
caravan. Baron Von Witzslaben said before I left the en-
cam])ment. "Mark you, I have my cannon set; it )ou do not
return within the two hours, I shall send a squad ot soldiers to
demand your delivery, and will throw Mandara in chains. If
he refuses, I shall forcibly liberate you, bombard his honia,
annihilate him and his iniquitous subjects. I consider it at
best most rash that )'ou are going with your paltry corps of

askari and few at-
tendants, but do not
ha\e an)' fear. I will
protect you if occa-
sion arises."

I thought, as I
was struoolino- down
the m o u n t a i n - s i d e
picking ni)' way over
HELD IX i;omd.v;e. thc strcaui at the bot-

tom ot the ravine, and struggling up the path leading to
Mandara's boma, with the natives of his tribe Hanking the
pathway in droves, that jierhaps it zvas rash, and alter a
few words of caution given to headman and interpreter as
to what I expected them to ilo in case we were tlebarred
retin'n, we had attained the gateway of Mandara's honia and
found a hearty welcome awaiting us. All the important men
of his tribe were arra)ed in state finery, and they conducted

SULTAN MANDARA OF MOSCHI. 397

me, with considerable pomp and many salaams, to Man-
dara, who was prostrate by paralysis, unable to move his
boil)- below his waist, excepting through the assistance ot
his attendants, in a tlark, gruesome hut, — his Swahali liouse
had been destroyed by Sultan Sina, o[ Kiboso, — stutt)- and
malodorous, as are all native habitations ; he was 1) ing on a
lono- Arab kitanda (bed), co\'ered with animal hides tor
warmth, and a smoky fire in the centre of the room. In
his helplessness and emaciation, one could scarcely believe
this man possessed the power to terrorize all the lesser
chiefs of the Kilimanjaro district, and from recent ac-
counts cause the Germans a large expenditure of gun-
powder. He has lost one eye, but the other is so bright
and alert, with such a strange furtive olance in it, whilst a
sinister smile always discloses his teeth, with an amount of
nervous energy and crafty look about his mouth, that one
cannot help but feel that he is in the presence of a man
of prowess and full ot trickery and cunning, and capable of
cruel subtertuges and brutal treacher)-.

He was fairly jubilant on seeing me, extemled his hand,
but in a piteous voice said, "Ah, now I have lived to see
a white woman, and here I am so helpless." He immedi-
ately asked me to take off mj- gloves. He examined my
fincrers, and a sinoujar coincidence occurred in the fact that I
wore an old-fashioned seal ring surrounded with diamonds,
which seemed on a casual glance to be a counterpart of the
signet ring presented to him b) Emperor William ; and he

398

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

■^aid at once, "Ah, you are the friend
of the kino." I said, " Cer-
tainl)', 1 am the friend of
many Icings, and I trust I may
call Mandara my friend." And,
a thing most peculiar, he seized
both my hands and spat upon
them. The blood flushed to m)-
cheek, and in a moment ot anger
I rose to my feet and took my
pistol from my belt, when my head-
man .said, "Re content, Bebe Bwana;
Mandara never was known to spit
on any one's hands before in that
manner; it is an evidences ot hom-
age; do not be angry." I will have
more to say of this custom later
on, but it was ilecmed the greatest
evidence of humiliation and
homage that this chief
i\\\j could hax^e ])Ossibl\' paid
me, loathsome as it seemed
to me.

After resuming m\' self-
possession, he turned to me
/ and said, would the white
' (jueen let him see her hair.

NAIIVE-M.MIE WOODEN SPOON.S.

SLM.TAN MANDAKA OI-' MdSlHI.

399

I let it down and pullfd it well about me, and he said,
"Ngai, Ngai I it is the threads of the sun's light"; and he
said, "May I touch it?" And waiving- for once my rule of
noli nic taiigcrc, 1 answered, " Certainly." He stroked it in a
strange, caressing way, and called out to summon his wives
to come and look at the white woman's tresses. When I
gathered them loosely up antl replaced the pins, he indulged
in an undertone conversation with these Avomen, who, over-
come by curiosity, ventured to ask why I did not shave off
my hair, as they did theirs ; and IMandara sneeringly retorted,
"It is too mziiria sana (it is too beautiful); why should she cut
it oft?" And then he continued in an incisive tone, " She is a
white queen, and you are all slaves and black." He quaintl)-
drew himself up in a helpless way on his elbows, turned
towards me, and said, " I have expected \'ou for many moons.
The last moon, when it kissetl Kibo, brought a message to
me and said, 'The white queen is coming.'" I stopped him
and queried, " Mandara, was the message not brought b)'
one of )our runners?"

And he laughed and said, "Perhaps, perhaps. ISut the
message came, Bebe Bwana ; I knew that \'ou were to pay me
a visit." To this I protested that, had he not been elisabletl. I
should never have condescended to take the trouble to visit him.
It was his place to have |jaid me a state visit, with pomp and
ceremony, and I should have received him in court dress, such
as white queens wear.

" Ah, ah," he dolorously replied, " to show you how much 1,

400 SULTAN TO SUI.TAN.

Mandara, the greatest sultan of Chaga, care for this honor, I will
give )'ou the last piece of work I shall ever execute." It was a
bracelet cut into diagonal strands on the surface, made of an
amalgam of sih-er and pewter, which he placed himself upon
my arm, and, assisted by one of his attendants, bent with long,
slender pincers so that it clasped close, and said, '' Wear this
until Mandara follows the sun home, and nobody in his province
will ever dare to do you harm."

He possessed many strange jewels, contained in a little
casket he fingered over, that had been given to him by Euro-
pean officers, hunters, Arabs, and from various other sources,
including the princely gifts sent b)- the Emperor William.
After pre.senting Mandara with a jewelled sword and a ring \ut
coveted, and I was on the eve ot leaving, he requested me to
give him m)' picture to put with a collection of prints he pos-
sessed ol white women. " Yes, )ou shall have m\- photograph
if )ou let me take )oiu's." In a tone ot injured \'anit)', he said,
" But see, Bebe Bwana, I cannot stand, I cannot hold m\- spear,
I cannot aim m)' bitudiiki" (gun); and he signed one ot his
wives to cast aside the large Hyrax fur robes that covered him,
exposing his mere skeletons of legs. " Once I was the deer ot
the mountain; animal nf)r bird could go where I could not.
I have stood on out; mountain and killetl ni)* enem)' who stood
opposing me on another mountain. I, Mandara, am the great-
est finidi living! I, Mandara, am the greatest warrior and
fear not Sina, and fear not Masai I I, Mandara, am the great-
est sultan."

SULTAN MAXHAkA OF MdSCHl. 4OI

He tried to get me to consent to take a photograph of his
eldest son, tlie scion of his Highness, protesting that he had
looked like the crown prince when he was his age. After much
parley, I procured a sketch which is a ver)' good counterpart
of Mandara, the egotistical invalid, stripped of the glory of his
own opinion. I sent him m)' promised photograph, accom-
panied b)' five hundred grains of quinine, and tea, sugar, and
blankets and cloths he coveted ver)- much, and received in re-
turn many additional beautiful presents, among which was his
own personal fine spear, many goats, sheep, and tusks of i\-or\'.
Mandara is very boastful of a num- ^ ,.^^^ /^

ber ot connectingr natiu'al caves be- -v •-.> jx's
neath the hill he occupies. I was ^^k^i^f^A /^
not permitted to pass the entrance of
the first. The story runs that during
an attack by his enemies, he has had
them allured into these ca\-es where arab flags of welcome.
a large posse of his warriors, there lying in ambush, charged
upon them and killed several hundred. These caves recall
the following circumstance : Mandara is the most dissolute
sultan I met. He respects nobody's rights, and does whatever
he lists ; frequently has raided adjacent tribes, and captured
the )'oung girls and women, driving them into his harem like
cattle, and when he has wearied of his captives he would mag-
nanimously bestow them upon his favorites, who are debased
enough to consider it a great favor and a decidedly economical
plan in comparison to procuring wives by purchase.

402

SL'I.TAN TO Si: I, TAN.

The women were not fine, and looked dejected. The beads
and other gifts I bestowed upon them were accepted with avidity.
I was able to procure a woman's ample kaniki (blue cotton),
beautifully embroidered with multicolored beads in Turkish
designs. In consequence ot the sudden cold winds that sweep
over this district, men and women wear furs or hides as do
the Masai, quantities of Chaga chains, and lustre beads, pew-
ter and brass ornaments. Their
burial customs are the same as all
throuo'h Chatia land.

The) all seemed uneasy and
ilubious what attitude the Ger-
mans would take towards them ;
and well the)' might. I was able
to procun; a pair of native-made
goat-skin bellows from Manclara's
chief fiuidi, some fine bows and
arrows, and several Colobus white
and sable monkey- skins. I made blood-brotherhood with
Mandara's son, which was the same as though the ceremony
had been between the sultan and myselt.

The invalid of my cara\an was much terrified b)' a native
woman's constant ai)i)arition before her tent during the night
marches. This poor .soul had lost her reason during a tragic
encounter with lions in the jungles, whilst she ami her son
were in flight from slave raiders, I believe, and they were
picked up by an English caravan and turned over to the

l^iSiL

i:lue cotton bead and chain

EMIlROIDF.RKn WOMAN'S CL01H.

SULTAN MANDARA OF MOSCHI. 403

Germans. This mad woman, although harmless, had some
vague idea coursing through her disordered brain to carry off
the invalid to some sequestered place. Indeed several attempts
were made during my safari, by natives, to kidnap this same
fever-stricken one ; augmenting my vigilance as well as my
apprehensions and cares. Dr. Baxter had assisted me by
medical attendance from Taveta to Moschi when the case had
reached its crisis ; however, the necessities of ambulance care
could not be relinquished in this case until Pangani was reached
when homeward bound.

One of the most touching incidents came under my per-
sonal observation whilst at Moschi, respecting a little native
child, who had been captured by a slave-raider with other
unfortunates, and freed by the German government. The
missionaries are generally made custodians of the freed slaves,
and receive from the government a pittance of not over five
dollars (one pound), I believe, to take, educate, rear, clothe,
and feed them. In this way it happened that the celebrated
mission doctor, Wm. Baxter, who has spent the best part
of his adult life in Africa, during a professional visit to the
station where the little child, not over six years of age,
had been placed, noticed him, and the child was immediately
drawn by the doctor's kindliness and evinced love for chil-
dren, and became deeply attached to him.

When the doctor had finished the duties of his profes-
sional visit, and returned to his own post, distant from the
place where he met the child something like twelve or fifteen

404

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

miles, and over a very difficult range of rugged steep foot-
hills of Kilimanjaro, intersected by deep ravines, gulleys, and
water courses, as well as being infested by wild animals,
a day or so elapsed when one night he was aroused by
his attendants, who brought a little native waif utterly worn

OITT OF THF. FOREST.

out by fatigue and hunger. It was his little friend, who,
unattended, had braved the terrors of night and prowling
animals, and the hardships of a perilous journey, as he
followed the tracks of the good doctor, guided only by his
child's affection and innate instinct of trapper.

Touched as the doctor was by compassion for the devoted
brave little soul, after the child had recuperated it was neces-

SULTAN MANDARA OF MOSCHI.

405

sary that he should return him to his legitimate protectors.
With much grief and disappointment to the child, and reluc-
tance on the part of the doctor, this was done.

Before a fortnight had elapsed, again during the blackest
hours of night the child put in an appearance at Moschi, the
doctor's station,* having eluded the vigilance of his warders, and
ignoring the terrors he had encountered during his former es-
capade. Heroic little chap ! The doctor could no longer resist
his pleading words of love and desire to be his mioto (little
boy), and took measures to secure the right of guardianship.

When I saw this child he was trudging up a steep hill,
bearing on his staff just like a little old man, his face radiant
with a welcome for the doctor, who had been on a long
journey. What will the future of this child be, I wonder!

♦Since this went to press Ibe Germans have expelled the English missionaries from the German Kili-
manjaro district-

4o6

SULTAN TO SULTAN.

CHAPTER XX.

FLEETING SIGHTS.

, ARCHING over the southeastern foot-
hill of Kilimanjaro, after leaving
Moschi, towards evening, there was
an ominous rustle of the leaves and
movement of the branches in a shady
bosk, which seemed to indicate the
presence of a skulking animal or ser-
pent. Investigation revealed three albi-
nos who, in terror, were striving- to gain
concealment. Their hair was not the yellow-white discolor-
ation found throughout Africa, prompted by individual fancy,
although not tribal, produced by bleaching with lime, but it
was pure dazzling white, soft and flossy; and their eyes
were a very pale pink, the iris dilating and contracting
with (jLiick, nervous snap, resembling the action of those
of white rabbits ; eyelashes white and coarse like spun
silver, and in striking contrast to the sickly unprepossessing
ashy black of their complexions, which has no given place
in the scale of colors. They looked dejected and debased,
were quite deficient in the allure and elasticity presented by

FLEETING SIGHTS. 407

most of the East Africans. They were shy, and refused
to hold comnuinication with any of my interpreters or per-
sonally with me. I proffered to them tempting gifts, which
they would not accept ; finally, as they became over-embar-
rassed b)- our friendl)- overtures, they ran away and again hid
in the adjacent bushes. Their teeth were filed in points and
stained brown with nut-juice. Low of stature, and craniums
sloping from the forehead to the apex, thick protruding lips
and jaws, they resembled Aztecs ; and certainly, from all
physical indices as well as their deportment, seemed to rank
as the lowest intellectually, if not the most degraded Africans
met. What their tribe could not be ascertained ; and from
information subsequently gleaned, naturally leads to the con-
clusion that albinos are simply freaks of nature liable to
occur in any tribe, yet tabooed by their own families and
tribes, and by all other tribes. Per force of circumstances, based
upon the stigma of nature, they become the denizens of
sequestered places, pursuing a migratory and precarious ex-
istence.

Marvels trooped on all sides calling for attention and too
often provoking alarm. It had, up to this period, been a
keen disappointment that we had not seen, even at a dis-
tance, elephants. Struggling down the deep dip of the hills
into a ravine, when the van of my little army was in the
bottom, which made the crotch between the hills, and the
line of men extended over a mile behind, so that the last
man's head had not been seen over the brow of the hill,

408 SULTAN TO SULTAN.

elephants' fresh tracks were before me. My first thought
was to get a photograph, if they should put in an appearance;
then with a sportswoman's pricle my heart swelled with the
idea I could possibly get a shot at them ; this was absurd,
with only rifles of small calibre. A crush and crash and
heavy thud of the ground put my Zanzibaris' hearts and
mine too in pawn. The quadrupedal earthquakes were
emerging from the trees and about to cross our path. In
wild dismay I cast a hasty backward glance to see how the
Zanzibaris were going to behave, and there was not one
single human creature in sight; it seemed as though the
earth had swallowed the entire caravan, not even a human
sound. I stood alone in my glory! My knees relaxed, my
spine gave way, and down I sank amid the tall grasses,
terror-stricken. Elephant number one came in full view
and beat about to the right and left, with his trunk in close
proximity to me, evidently aware of the presence of aliens,
but never paused, when snivelling and puffing hot breaths of
inlantile complaints came trotting after a baby elephant
reluctantly following its sire, then came the ungainly mother,
lashing the youngster into a quicker trot by slapping it on
one side of its haunches, then on the other, with her trunk.
They all three sniffed about and tossed their trunks into the
air, and the male returned to round his small family up,
but trotted off without desire to molest us. After a few
minutes had elapsed, soot-balls began to blossom amid the
foliage, and presently my loyal, leal, brave fellows emerged

>
<

OS
<
o

FLEETING SIGHTS. 409

smiling, chattering at the top of their voices about the
tcnibo (elephants). A wandering band of hunters, evi-
dently on the trail of these elephants, passed us during the
day ; they carried loaded spears with huge barbed poisoned
arrowheads, which they throw at the elephants, but always
strive to get back the loaded shafts when the elephants are
brought low, as they are difficult to make and invaluable.

The keen sight of the natives is astounding as exemplified
by native guides. A guide would say, pointing, " Bebe
Bwana, very soon comes such or such a mountain, or vine,
or plain, or village." And I would strain my eyes striving to
penetrate the limitless spaces, unable to descry the slightest
indication of the aforesaid, or the slightest premonition of the
appearance of a caravan he might aver was coming ; neither
could I with my field glasses espy a single object to verify his
assertion. However, in due course of a day or two's march
we would be in lull view of the announced object, or within
shouting range of the caravan. There is just one cogent
objection to offer on this point: may the natives not be so
well posted as to the physical aspect of the country, and
familiarized with such by constantly traversing it; and may
they possibly not have learned from experience that the
mzimgus caravans march at a certain rate of speed and are
most likely in a given time to reach a point they know as a
fixed fact, or that a caravan, rumor has bruited is en route,
will be met ? or can it be that these naturals actually have
that same keenness of vision peculiar to birds and some wild

4IO SULTAN TO SULTAN.

animals, and in some marked individual cases extremely
acute? Another remarkable trait, or gift, which it would
seem is an attribute possessed by all native peoples, is
their acute faculty of hearing. The native guides, like the
North American Indians, would sprawl flat on the ground and
press their ears close upon it, then announce with a degree
of accuracy certain discoveries: "a herd of buffalo," "simba,"
"zebra." "elephants," "a saftiri" "natives," "water."

At Lake Jipo, and, in fact, on the banks of various
streams, personally I distinctly heard men talking in a low
voice over the water from the opposite bank, by sending the
voice close to the water's surface, and even heard them speak
across ravines from the edge of one precipice to the other.
The latter denotes some peculiar vibrant qualities of the at-
mosphere, whatever may be the secret of the former. On all
sides could be heard th(; laughter of merry girls and Icon
(lads), and the voices of men and women from distances
which would prove a rarity or peculiarity in the carrying
properties of the atmosphere.

Water seemed to be my African ordeal. Shouts and yells
are always in order with Zanzibaris on safari, and only when
particularly vociferous does a leader heed them, although
there is usually an intonation that is significant when
prompted through peril.

A great shout of warning from my followers rang up from
the valley to me, as I was cautiously picking my steps along
a customary goat-path on the mountain-side. Although not

FLEETING SIGHTS. 4I I

easily flustered, their repeated yells and wild, significant ges-
tures, I must confess, slightly alarmed me. The thought flashed
through my brain that possibly I might be on the eve of
stepping into some gorge or trap unseen by me but discern-
ible to my followers from below. As their yells continued, I
deemed it wise to pause and ascertain the cause of the
augmenting commotion, so I wheeled around, and planted my
back against the craggy mountain-side. At this act their
yells redoubled. I demanded an explanatio