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Full text of "Sunset all-western cook book; how to select, prepare, cook, and serve all typically western food products"

To help you who live in the West to enjoy more 
fully the glorious products of these Western states; 
to introduce you, perhaps, to some of the less well- 
known foods of particular localities; in short, to help 
you to live more abundantly here in the West that 
is the purpose of this Sunset All -Western Cook Book. 



SUNSET 
ALL-WESTERN 
COOK BOOK 



How to select, prepare, cook, and serve 
all typically Western food products. 
Recipes included for favorite regional 
and foreign dishes peculiar to the West 



By 
GENEVIEVE A. CALLAHAN 

Home Economics Editor 
SUNSET MAGAZINE 



1 933 
STANFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 

STANFORD UNIVERSITY, CALIFORNIA 



COPYRIGHT 1933 BY THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES 
OF THE LELAND STANFORD JUNIOR UNIVERSITY 



PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 
BY STANFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 



ABOUT THIS BOOK 

COOK BOOKS and cook books there are in great abundance 
collections of old Southern recipes, New England recipes, Chi- 
nese recipes, recipes for entrees, for meat dishes and meatless 
dishes, and so on in uncounted number. Strange to say, in all 
this profusion of excellent cook books, general or specific in 
purpose, the West and its products have been largely ignored. 

This is strange when one remembers that Western hospi- 
tality and Western cookery have been noted throughout the 
land since the early days of gold. It is particularly strange 
when one considers that our Western states produce such a 
profusion of unusual, and unusually good, fruits and nuts and 
vegetables and fish. Many of these are, of course, shipped to 
other sections of the country. A good many others, however, 
cannot well be shipped, and so are enjoyed in all their delicious- 
ness right here at the source of supply. Of those products that 
are shipped East, we of the West have greater abundance at 
lower prices, and we have them at their best, fresh from ranch 
garden or orchard or from the Pacific itself. 

This Sunset All-Western Cook Book makes no pretense of 
being a complete cook book that will answer all your questions 
about ordinary cooking and baking. There are too many good 
general cook books on sale now for us to attempt to gather into 
one volume all the wisdom of that sort. Instead, we have, so 
far as possible, omitted the ordinary recipes and information 
that are found in every other cook book, and have endeavored 
to make this an extremely useful handbook on the preparation 
and serving of typically Western food products. And in spite 
of the fact that it does not lay claim to being a general cook 
book, we suspect that it will be used more frequently in every 
Western home kitchen into which it finds its way than the regu- 
lation cook book ordinarily is used. 

This Sunset All-Western Cook Book has grown out of five 
years' direct contact with homemakers of the Pacific Coast 
states. You who have contributed to the Kitchen Cabinet recipe 



vi Sunset All -Western Cook Book 

exchange of Sunset Magazine, you who have asked questions, 
or offered advice and friendly comment, have furnished the 
inspiration for this book, and much of the information con- 
tained in it. 

If you discover that some excellent recipe or bit of in- 
formation about some Western product is lacking from this 
"anthology" of Western recipes, will you please sit right down 
and write it to us, so that we may possibly incorporate it in the 
next edition of Sunset All-Western Cook Book? And if you 
should find any errors or misinformation (which heaven for- 
bid!) will you please call our attention to that, also? This book 
is the first step toward a thoroughly complete reference book 
on the source, description, preparation, cooking, and serving 
of every Western food product, and we ask your kindly help 
in achieving it. 

We are grateful for the aid of a number of Western home 
economists, homemakers, and market men in the preparation 
of this material. Special thanks are extended to Bertha E. 
Shapleigh, Marjorie Black, Jeannette Cramer, Helen Wells, 
Mrs. A. S. Baldwin, Gladys Mason, Charlotte Sloan, and 
Ruth B. Lane. For reference, the following books have been 
found especially useful : Food and How to Cook it, by Helen M. 
Wells and Belle De Graf; Recipes You'll Enjoy, by Julia Lee 
Wright; Food Purchasing for the Home, by Ruetta Day Blinks 
and Willetta Moore; Roeding's Fruit Growers' Guide; Five 
Hundred Ways to Prepare California Fish; Vegetables in the 
California Garden, by Ross H. Cast, published by Stanford 
University Press; California Fruits, by Edward J. Wickson; 
and The Normal Diet, by Dr. W. D. Sansum, published by the 
C. V. Mosby Company, St. Louis. 

GENEVIEVE A. CALLAHAN 

Home Economics Editor 
Sunset Magazine 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

I. Western Vegetables 1 

Artichokes, 2; Asparagus, 6; Bamboo Shoots, 8; Beans, 9; Beets, Bracken, 
Broccoli, Cardoon, 12; Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, 13; Carrots, Cauli- 
flower, 15; Celery, 16; Celery Root, 17; Chard, Chayote, Cress, Dash- 
een, Eggplant, Endive, 18; Garbanzo, Finnochio, Herbs and Flavorings, 
19; Kohlrabi, 20; Mushrooms, Onions, 21; Peas, Peppers, 22; Pimien- 
tos, 23; Rice, 24; Salsify, 26; Spinach, Squash, 27; Sweet Potatoes, 
Tomatoes, 32; Vegetables General, 33; Sauces for Vegetables, 35 

II. Western Fruits and Nuts . 39 

Apples, 40; Apricots, 43; Avocados, 45; Berries, 51-59; Cherries, 59; 
Citrus Fruits, 61 ; Grapefruit, 62; Lemons, 64; Limes, Oranges, 68; Tan- 
gerine, 74; Dates, Figs, 76; Grapes, 78; Melons, 80; Nectarines, Olives, 
82; Peaches, 85; Pears, 88; Persimmons, 89; Pineapples, Plums and 
Prunes, 91; Pomegranates, Quinces, 93; Fruit Combinations, 94; Salad 
Dressings, 96; Sub-tropical Fruits, 98; Wild Fruits of the West, 102; 
Dried Fruits, 104; Raisins, 112; Western Nuts, 114; Almonds, 114; 
Chestnuts, 115; Filberts, Lychee Nuts, Pecans, Pinons, 116; Pistachio, 
Walnuts, 1 1 7 

III. Western Fish and Came 121 

Abalone, 129; Alaska Black Cod, 130; Albacore, Anchovies, Barracuda, 
Bass, 131; Blue Fish, Catfish, Chilipepper, Clams, 132; Codfish, Crabs, 
137; Ecrevisses, Flying Fish, Frogs, Geoducks, 140; Game Fish, 141; 
Crayfish, Halibut, 143; Herring, Kingfish, Lobster, 144; Mackerel, Mus- 
sels, 146; Oysters, 147; Pike, Pompano, Rock Cod, 149; Salmon, Sand 
Dabs, 150; Sardines, Scallops, 151; Sea Bass, Shark, Sheepshead, 
Shrimps, 152; Skate, Smelt, Sole, Squid, 154; Steelhead, Swordfish, 
Tuna, Trout, 155; Turbot, Whitefish, Yellowtail, Kippered and Pickled 
Fish, 156; Western Game, 159; Wild Ducks, 160; Coot, Wild Goose, 
Prairie Chicken, Sage Hens, 162; Roast Grouse, Partridge, Quail, Pigeons, 
163; Wild Turkey, Venison, 164; Bear, Moose, Mountain Sheep, Rabbit, 
167; Squirrels, Reindeer, Sauces for Fish and Game, 168 

IV. Favorite Foreign Dishes 173 

Albondigos, Chiles Rellenos, Bitki, 174; Chili con Carne, Chop Suey, 
Chow Mein, 175; Curried Lobster, Shrimps, Oysters, Eggs Foo Yung, 
176; Enchiladas, Frijoles, 177; Italian Macaroni, Italian Sauce, Mine- 
strone, Polenta, 178; Ravioli, 179; Risotto, Sukiyaki, Tagliarini, 180; 
Tamales, 181 ; Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 

V. Western Canning, Preserving, Pickling 183 

Jellies and Preserves, 184; Pickles, 195; Canning Information, 199 

Index 203 

vii 




Marketing? Nothing short of a trip through an 
art gallery is this daily duty, presenting as it does 
such a feast to the eyes. Fat artichokes, quite "art 
moderne" in their beautiful symmetry of leaf ar- 
rangement; blunt asparagus; purple varnished globes 
of egg plant; deep green zucchini and lettuce-green 
patty pans (squash is a too prosaic word entirely 
for their loveliness) ; where is the homemaker who 
does not revel in the daily display of beauty in every 
market from Seattle to San Diego, from the blue 
Pacific to the Rocky Mountains? 

Don't let yourself fall into a routine of cooking 
just a few old familiar vegetables. Explore! Experi- 
ment! Enjoy to the full the wealth of edible beauty 
that is your Western heritage. 



Western Vegetables 



ARTICHOKES 

Introducing the artichoke to visit- 
ing Easterners or Middle-Western- 
ers is one of the joys of living in 
the West! This remarkable vege- 
tablethe "Globe" or "Paris" arti- 
choke as distinguished from the 
so-called Jerusalem or American ar- 
tichoke which is in reality the 
flower bud of a giant thistle, is a 
typically Western product, being 
grown exclusively in California. 

In recent years the artichoke has 
become a snipping vegetable, and 
acreage and production have in- 
creased rapidly. Thousands of boxes 
are shipped East in iced cars each 
month during the season, which runs 
from October to May inclusive. 
With the exception of a compara- 
tively small number of persons in 
the larger centers such as New York 
and Chicago, however, few Eastern- 
ers know the artichoke and fewer 
still know how to eat it. 

About the Artichoke 

Artichoke production is confined 
to the central California coast, from 
San Francisco Bay south to Santa 
Barbara County. It seems to favor 
a narrow strip of land along the 
ocean; few plantings are over five 
miles from the shore. Fields of the 
gray-green, coarse, lacy foliage of 
the artichoke present a beautiful 
sight throughout the winter and 
spring months, as one drives along 
the Coast around Half Moon Bay, 
Carmel, and other fog-kissed points. 
It is startling to the newcomer to 
observe an artichoke patch running 
out to the very edge of a sheer cliff 
along the ocean. The plants are cut 
down to the ground in July, thus 
stimulating their growth, causing 
them to produce an abundance of 
flower buds later. Incidentally, arti- 
choke plants are becoming more and 



more popular as decorative garden 
plants; the flower buds should be 
cut off as soon as they are well 
formed and before the scales open, 
otherwise they are tough and taste- 
less. Never allow the flowers to 
mature, or the plants will dwindle 
and die. 

How to Select 

The uninitiated cook will inva- 
riably search the market for the 
largest artichokes. Her wiser sis- 
ter will look for small to medium 
sizes, for several reasons: they are 
usually more tender than the coarser, 
more mature buds ; and they are less 
expensive because they look less im- 
posing. Whatever size you choose, 
look (and feel, for the fingers help 
always in buying vegetables) for 
tightly formed heads with scales 
clinging close, not opened back, and 
for a crisp, fresh appearance. Avoid 
brownish-spotted, unattractive little 
nubbins of artichokes, unless you 
wish to use only the hearts, or bot- 
toms. Even so, avoid dry buds, no 
matter how cheap they may be. 

How to Prepare 

Allow one small or one-half a 
large artichoke for each person. Ex- 
amine each bud carefully for signs 
of worms (not often found, but 
should be looked for nevertheless). 
Wash thoroughly under running 
cold water. Cut off the stem about 
an inch from the base (this is to 
keep the flavor sealed in), and if de- 
sired, cut off about an inch of the 
top, straight across, using a sharp 
knife on a cutting board. Some 
cooks prefer to trim off all the sharp 
thorny ends of the leaves. This may 
be done with scissors. If preparing 
artichokes ahead of time for cook- 
ing, rub lemon juice over the cut 
surfaces to prevent blackening, and 



Artichokes 



let stand in cold water until needed. 
(Do not, however, soak the vege- 
table for hours before cooking.) 

How to Cook 

To boil artichokes, put into a large 
kettle of boiling salted water, cover, 
and boil from 30 minutes to an hour, 
depending upon size and tenderness. 
When the bottom may be pierced 
easily with a fork, or when a leaf 
can be pulled out easily, the vege- 
table is done. Pour off water, and 
turn each artichoke upside down to 
drain briefly. Cut off stem close to 
base, and place upright on plate, if 
whole artichoke is being served, or 
cut in half lengthwise. 

Many Westerners prefer to add a 
slice or two of onion or a small clove 
of garlic, and a few slices of lemon 
or a tablespoonful of lemon juice or 
vinegar, to the water in which the 
buds are boiled. Some persons add 
two or three tablespoonfuls of salad 
oil, which gives the vegetable added 
flavor and an appetizing glossiness. 

If the artichoke is to be stuffed, 
either hot or cold, the fuzzy choke 
may be removed with a teaspoon, 
measuring spoon, or French ball 
vegetable cutter. It is not necessary 
to do so. 

How to Serve 

Plain boiled artichokes are deli- 
cious, served either with melted 
butter, mayonnaise, mustard -may- 
onnaise, French dressing, or Hol- 
landaise sauce. (See Index for 
Sauces.) 

The sauce, if stiff enough, may be 
placed in a crisp lettuce-leaf cup, or 
in a tiny cup made by placing two 
or three of the large artichoke 
leaves together on the plate. Small 
paper crinkle-cups are satisfactory 
to hold "runny" sauces at informal 
meals ; or tiny Chinese bowls or nut 
cups may be pressed into service. It 



is always advisable to serve a large 
artichoke on a separate plate, for the 
waste leaves do clutter up a dinner 
plate badly. Halves of artichokes 
may, however, be served on the din- 
ner plate, with a dot of butter 
dropped into the hollow of each. 

How to Eat 

To eat this vegetable gracefully, 
pluck off a leaf (or petal, to be 
truthful) in the fingers, dip the base 
of it into the sauce provided, then 
bite off the tender portion and dis- 
card the tough end. Eventually you 
will come to a small, compact cone 
of light-colored leaves. Lift this 
cone out with the fingers and dis- 
card. When the bottom, or button, 
or heart, is reached, use the fork 
(sometimes the knife is needed, too) 
to remove the fuzzy "choke," which 
is discarded. Cut the remaining 
heart into bits with the fork, dip into 
the sauce, and eat. After the first 
one, you won't consider the arti- 
choke "a total waste of time," as one 
hungry Middle Westerner dubbed 
the proceedings ! 

Artichokes are obtainable canned 
plain, and also in the form of spiced 
hearts, as well as in the fresh green 
state. The spiced artichokes, put up 
in oil, make a charmingly decora- 
tive garnish for vegetable, fish, or 
chicken salads. 



FRIED ARTICHOKES 

Select a few tender artichokes, 
wash, and remove the tough outer 
leaves until the white, tender heart 
appears. Trim tips a little and cut 
into quarters lengthwise. Dip into 
beaten egg, then roll in flour which 
has been seasoned with a little salt 
and pepper. Fry in a pan with salad 
oil or butter, cooking very slowly 
for about 20 minutes. 



Western Vegetables 



ARTICHOKES DRY SAUTE 

Cut off points of artichokes, re- 
move all hard outer leaves, and cut 
each bud into four or six pieces 
lengthwise. Fry in olive oil or but- 
ter, with garlic and little shallots or 
onions, pepper and salt. Serve hot. 

STEWED ARTICHOKES 

Remove all hard outer leaves and 
points, and cut lengthwise into four 
or six pieces. Put into a casserole 
with pepper, salt, salad oil or butter, 
and a few leaves of mint. Cook 
slowly by steam, which is held in the 
casserole by putting a sheet of heavy 
paper under the cover. No water is 
needed ; however, a very little quan- 
tity (2 or 3 tablespoonfuls) can be 
put in for precaution. A half -hour's 
baking in a moderate oven (375) 
is sufficient for cooking them. 

QUARTERED ARTICHOKES 

Cut four large artichokes in quar- 
ters, remove the fuzzy parts on the 
inside, and immediately rub the 
quarters with lemon so they will not 
become black. Boil in salt water un- 
til soft. 

STUFFED ARTICHOKES 
(ITALIAN) 

4 medium-sized artichokes 
Stuffing 

2 cupf uls of dry bread crumbs 
1 small package of Italian or 

Parmesan cheese 
1 clove of garlic (minced) 
1 sprig of parsley (minced) 
YZ cube (4 tablespoonfuls) of 

butter 

Parboil artichokes 15 minutes, 
spread leaves, and tuck bits of the 
mixture in between all of the leaves. 
Set them in a pan of salted water, 
having water come up around the 
artichokes to the depth of about 1 



inch. Bake uncovered half an hour, 
having oven quite hot (425). Serve 
on lettuce leaves as salad, with plain 
or mustard-mayonnaise. They should 
be served hot and are a prime fa- 
vorite with everyone. 

STUFFED ARTICHOKES 

4 artichokes, cooked tender 
Y-2. cupful of cracker crumbs 

1 onion, chopped 

4 tablespoonfuls of butter 
y-z teaspoonful of salt 

2 tablespoonfuls of American 

cheese, grated 

Cut the cooked artichokes in half 
lengthwise and remove the chokes. 
Mix the other ingredients together, 
adding a tiny amount of water if 
needed to bind the mixture. Fill the 
cavities of the artichokes with the 
dressing, put into a baking dish, and 
bake in a hot oven (400) until the 
tops are nicely browned. 

STUFFED BAKED ARTICHOKES 

(Serves 6) 

6 large, firm artichokes 

^2 pound of fresh mushrooms or 

1 No. 1 can 
4 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 clove of garlic, minced fine 
Few sprigs of rosemary, thyme, 

and sweet marjoram 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour 

1 cupful of minced chicken or 

turkey 

1 cupful of chicken or turkey stock 
y cupful of buttered crumbs 

The artichokes may be parboiled 
the day before or early in the morn- 
ing. Cut off about one inch of the 
tops before boiling in salted water 
with one clove of garlic and 2 table- 
spoonfuls of salad oil. When nearly 
tender turn upside down to drain, 
and when cold, carefully separate 
the leaves so as to remove the choke 
with a teaspoon. This leaves a nice 



Artichokes 



cavity for stuffing. Saute the mush- 
rooms in the butter with the garlic 
and herbs. When done add flour 
and blend well. Then add the 
chicken stock and chicken. Cook un- 
til thick, season to taste with salt 
and fill artichokes. Cover with but- 
tered crumbs. Bake for half an hour 
in a covered baking dish in a 375- 
degree oven with 1 cupful of water 
and %. cupful of salad oil in bottom 
of dish. 

ARTICHOKE CASES FOR 
CREAMED FOODS 

Wash and trim good-sized arti- 
chokes, and cut off the tops about 
2 inches deep, so that all that re- 
mains may be eaten with a fork. 
Cook as directed previously. When 
tender, remove and drain upside 
down until cool enough to handle. 
Separate the petals to form a cup, 
and with a spoon remove the fuzzy 
choke. Place artichoke cups in a pan 
with a little salad oil in the bottom, 
and fill each case with well-seasoned 
creamed mushrooms, shrimp, oys- 
ters, chicken, or the like. Sprinkle 
the top with buttered crumbs, or 
crumbs and grated cheese, and bake 
in a moderately hot oven (400) 15 
to 25 minutes. These make a festive 
dish for a party luncheon. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS 

The button or bottom part of the 
artichoke (when the thistle-like por- 
tion is removed) combines well with 
other vegetables for salads. Celery 
root, artichoke buttons, tomatoes, 
and mayonnaise make an excellent 
combination. Artichoke buttons in 
themselves are considered a delicacy 
and are often eaten with mayonnaise 
or Hollandaise sauce; or sauted 
(fried) delicately brown on both 
sides, and seasoned with salt and 
pepper and lemon juice. 



FRIED ARTICHOKE HEARTS 

Drain the desired quantity of 
cooked or canned artichoke hearts. 
Make a batter as follows : 

1 cupful of flour 

l /4 teaspoonful of salt 
2 A> cupful of milk 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter 
1 egg white, stiffly beaten 

Sift flour and salt, add milk and 
butter and beat smooth. Fold in 
beaten egg white just before using. 
Dip artichoke hearts in the batter 
and fry in deep fat (390). 

ARTICHOKE OMELET 

Trim and clean that is, remove 
hard leaves and points and wash. 
Cut in small pieces lengthwise, then 
crosswise. Fry in oil in a pan until 
well done, adding salt and pepper to 
taste. Then beat up some eggs and 
put in with artichokes, mixing all 
together. (Use your own discretion 
as to quantities.) Fry until brown 
on both sides. 

MARIE'S ARTICHOKE OMELET 

In the kitchen of a French board- 
ing-house this recipe was extricated 
with difficulty from the practically 
non-English-speaking cook. But is 
it good ! 

First (to serve two) you have 
perhaps two artichoke hearts ready, 
cooked and chopped. Into a skillet 
put a little oil and butter, and in this 
fry one clove of garlic, one small 
onion, and a little parsley, all 
chopped fine. When these are limp 
but not brown, add the chopped arti- 
choke hearts, and stir until well 
heated. Then add two or three 
slightly beaten eggs, with salt and 
pepper, and scramble or cook as a 
French omelet, as you wish. Serve 
immediately, with hot French bread 
and a green salad. 



6 



Western Vegetables 



ARTICHOKE SOUFFLE 

1 tablespoon ful of butter 
1 tablespoon ful of flour 
1 cupful of milk 
Salt and pepper 

3 eggs, yolks and whites separated 
8 to 12 cooked artichoke hearts, 
chopped fine 

Make a cream sauce of the butter, 
flour, and milk, and season well. 
Beat the egg yolks light, and stir 
into the cream sauce, then add the 
chopped artichokes. Lastly, fold in 
the egg whites, beaten stiff, pour 
into a buttered baking dish, set this 
in a shallow pan of hot water, and 
bake in a moderate oven (350) 30 
to 35 minutes. Serve without delay. 



ARTICHOKE CRAB COCKTAIL 
SUPREME 

Y* cupful of tomato catsup 
Yz cupful of well-seasoned mayon- 
naise 

Y* cupful of whipped cream 
YZ cupful of shredded crabmeat 
Y* cupful of hearts of artichokes, 
diced 

Mix lightly, put into cocktail 
glasses and top with half a sweet 
pickle or a stuffed olive. Makes four 
servings. 

COMBINATION ARTICHOKE 
SALAD 

6 artichoke hearts boiled and 

cooled 
1 tomato peeled and sliced 

1 cupful of string beans cooked and 

cooled 

2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 
Y* cupful of celery, cut fine 
1 can of asparagus tips 

Arrange on lettuce leaves, top 
with a spoonful of mayonnaise, and 
decorate with strips of pimiento. 



STUFFED ARTICHOKE SALAD 

Cooked artichokes, chilled, and 
the petals opened out to form a cup, 
make beautiful salads. One of the 
most interesting fillings is a combi- 
nation of diced cooked celery root 
and diced avocado, both marinated 
in tart French dressing. Crab or 
other fish salad will be found excel- 
lent also. 

MOLDED ARTICHOKE SALAD 

6 or 8 artichokes, cooked tender 
2 tablespoon fuls of gelatine 
YI cupful of cold water 
YI cupful of boiling water 
Y* cupful of lemon juice 
Salt and paprika to taste 
1 cupful of whipped cream 
1 cupful of mayonnaise 

Remove the leaves from the 
cooked artichokes and scrape the 
tender part from each leaf with a 
spoon. Soften the gelatine in the 
cold water, then dissolve in the boil- 
ing water, and add seasonings. Cool, 
then combine with the whipped 
cream and mayonnaise which have 
been mixed, and add the artichoke 
scrapings. Place an artichoke heart 
in the bottom of each cup or mold, 
pour the gelatine mixture over, and 
chill in the refrigerator. Serve gar- 
nished with a little mayonnaise. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES 

The Jerusalem artichoke bears no 
resemblance at all to the Globe arti- 
choke. It is a knobby tuber, pro- 
duced underground like the potato, 
and used much the same way in 
cooking. The French people prize 
this vegetable highly ; they use it in 
stews, soups, and salads. No special 
recipes are needed. Simply cook un- 
til tender in boiling salted water to 
cover, drain, and prepare as desired. 



Asparagus 



ASPARAGUS 



While asparagus is grown all over 
the United States, it is a Western 
crop, for something like 90 per cent 
of that canned commercially is 
grown and put up in the state of 
California. The famous Delta coun- 
try of the Sacramento River is the 
chief asparagus-growing section. An 
interesting sight it is driving along 
the levee during the spring months 
to see swarms of men cutting the 
fat stalks with sharp, spade-like 
knives that sever the shoot with a 
diagonal cut several inches below the 
surface of the ground. 

This method of harvesting ac- 
counts for the white "asparagus 
tips" of commerce, for the tiny 
shoots are barely given time to 
puncture the top soil when they are 
cut off. The green asparagus is 
green because it is permitted to grow 
up into the sunlight. Until a few 
years ago the white bleached aspara- 
gus was more popular than the 
green, but the public taste is chang- 
ing fast. The white tips are better 
for canning, because they keep their 
shape better, but for eating fresh, 
the green asparagus is much to be 
preferred. 

A bed of asparagus, which re- 
quires almost no care, should be in- 
cluded in every home garden. The 
woman who can gather this vege- 
table from her own garden has a 
tremendous advantage over those 
who must buy at a market, for fresh 
asparagus has a delicacy and a 
sweetness that is lost when the vege- 
table is older. Since asparagus is a 
body-regulating food that supplies 
roughage, it well deserves a welcome 
on our tables. It may be used in 
soups, omelets, souffles, gelatine sal- 
ads, cocktails, hot vegetable dishes, 
on a crisp lettuce leaf with a favor- 
ite dressing, or it may be served on 



toast with melted butter, cream, or 
Hollandaise sauce. 

How to Prepare and Cook 

One pound of asparagus, cut into 
inch lengths for creaming, yields 
about two cupfuls when cooked, and 
will serve three or four persons. 
When boiled whole, to be served 
with butter or Hollandaise sauce, 
allow one pound for two or three 
persons, depending upon the rest of 
the menu. 

In preparing asparagus for cook- 
ing, first wash very thoroughly in 
cold water. A metal sponge or a 
brush will aid in removing the scales 
which harbor dirt. Break off the 
lower part of the stalks as far down 
as they will snap, then tie into bun- 
dles for individual serving, using 
white cord. Asparagus is usually 
cooked standing up, in boiling salted 
water over the thick part of the 
stalk only, so that the tender tips 
merely steam. Or it may be started 
standing up, then laid flat in the 
water to finish cooking the tops. Be 
sure the water is actively boiling 
when the vegetable is put in, and 
that it is salted ( 1 teaspoon ful to the 
quart of water). Cook the aspara- 
gus uncovered, to preserve its fresh 
green color. It may, however, be cut 
or broken into one-inch pieces, cook- 
ing the stalks first and adding the 
tender tips during the latter part of 
cooking. 

The time allowed depends upon 
the asparagus, but 20 to 25 minutes 
should be sufficient for the butts of 
young and tender asparagus, and 5 
to 10 minutes for the tips. Liquid 
left in the pan should be saved for 
use in good and nutritious soups and 
sauces. 

Another most interesting way of 
cooking asparagus is to use only 
enough water to keep the asparagus 
from burning, and to add the butter 



8 



Western Vegetables 



when the vegetable is put on to cook. 
The water should be all absorbed 
when the asparagus is tender. It 
may be necessary to add a little 
water from time to time during the 
cooking. 

ASPARAGUS AND CHEESE 
DELIGHT 

1 can of asparagus tips (or 1 

bunch of fresh green aspara- 
gus, cooked) 

1 cupful of blanched almonds 
1 cupful of grated American cheese 

Cream sauce, made with 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
3 tablespoonfuls of flour 
1 cupful of milk 
Juice from the asparagus 
6 patty cases or pieces of hot 
buttered toast 

Open the can of asparagus tips 
from the bottom, to avoid breaking 
the stalks ; or use the fresh-cooked 
stalks. Drain and cut the tips into 
short lengths. Blanch the almonds 
and cut them into lengthwise strips 
if desired. Grate the cheese. Make 
the cream sauce in the usual way, 
using the asparagus juice for part 
of the liquid. Cook, stirring, until 
thick ; season well, then add the as- 
paragus, almonds, and cheese, and 
let stand over hot water until heated 
thoroughly. Do not stir, as that 
would mash the asparagus tips. 
Serve in hot patty cases or on crisp 
buttered toast. 

ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE 

Cook the asparagus in salted 
water, until tender, or use canned 
asparagus; drain. Butter a shallow 
baking dish and lay the asparagus 
in it. Sprinkle thickly with grated 
cheese, dot with butter and add a 
little pepper. Brown slightly in a 
hot oven (425) and serve at once. 

Remember that canned asparagus 
is packed in the can with the tips at 



the top. When opening a can of as- 
paragus turn it upside down and re- 
move the bottom. This protects the 
tender tips from the can opener and 
permits the spears to slide out easily 
without breaking. 

Try creaming peas (canned or 
fresh) with asparagus tips. Serve 
on hot buttered toast, or for more 
elaborate occasions in patty shells, 
rosettes, or Dresden patties. These 
last are made by hollowing out 2- 
inch-thick triangles or squares of 
white bread, and browning them 
slowly in the oven, not under the 
broiler. 

Asparagus is excellent creamed 
with new potatoes, or combined 
with corn or peas or tomatoes to 
make a delicious casserole. No par- 
ticular recipes are needed. Use your 
imagination, taste the mixture fre- 
quently while combining, and the re- 
sults will be good. 

BAMBOO SHOOTS 

Young bamboo shoots constitute 
an important article of diet in Ori- 
ental countries, particularly China 
and Japan. Considerable quantities 
of the canned shoots are imported 
into this country, chiefly for use in 
Oriental recipes. 

It is only after a bamboo grove 
has become well established and is 
sending up culms 20 to 30 feet high 
that shoots suitable for food are 
available. These are allowed to 
reach a height of 6 to 10 inches, 
when they are cut off below the 
ground, like asparagus. The usual 
practice is to dig down and cut off 
the young shoots at the rhizome 
which bears them. 

To cook, remove sheaths and cut 
the shoots into pieces, crosswise, 
lengthwise, or diagonally, or into 
cubes or oblong pieces. Soak for 30 
minutes in cold water, then boil in 



Beans 



a small quantity of salted water 
(adding more water as needed) 30 
minutes or more, until fairly tender. 
Shoots of suitable age when prop- 
erly cooked are always firm and 
somewhat crisp rather than soft. 
Pieces from the base of a shoot may 
require more cooking than those 
from nearer the tip, but they gen- 
erally have a better flavor. 

Bamboo shoots may be served 
with plain butter, butter sauce, or 
cream sauce. The flavor somewhat 
resembles very young field corn, 
with a slight bitterness, which is 
made entirely unobjectionable by the 
addition of the butter or other dress- 
ing. Cut small, the cooked shoots 
make an acceptable addition to a 
salad. 

BAMBOO SHOOTS, JAPANESE 
STYLE 

Slice and cook the bamboo until 
tender, as directed above. Then put 
into a sauce made as follows: mix 
1 cupful of soy sauce (this is the 
basis of Worcestershire sauce and 
is obtained only at Chinese or Japa- 
nese groceries or at some of the larg- 
est groceries in our large cities), % 
cupful of water, and 1 tablespoon- 
ful of sugar; let simmer for half 
an hour in this sauce, and serve. 

BEANS 

Bean Sprouts 

Bean sprouts are used chiefly in 
Chop Suey, Chow Mein, soups, 
stews, etc. They may be boiled in a 
small amount of water, well salted, 
and combined with white, Bechamel, 
tomato, or tart sauce. 

Lima Beans 

While lima beans of some sort 
are grown in many sections of the 
United States, principally as garden 



crops, their greatest and practically 
only commercial success is confined 
to a very small area in California's 
fertile valleys and coastal plains. 

These valley soils are both deep 
and strong primary requisites for 
limas of highest quality, for the lima 
plant is deep-rooted. 

Furthermore, limas require high 
humidity in dry seasons much 
moisture in the air. And, though 
wet and dry seasons are well marked 
in this coastal portion of California, 
the needed moisture for lima culti- 
vation is amply furnished by fre- 
quent heavy fogs which roll in over 
this area during the hot summer 
months. 

Perhaps it is a whim of Nature 
that such an ideal growing condition 
should be centered within such a 
limited area. However, California 
lima growers have not questioned 
Nature's mood instead, they have 
accepted the fact. And they have 
centered in this favored region all 
the skill at their command to pro- 
duce the highest quality limas. It is 
no wonder then that California limas 
(large or baby limas) are richer and 
more delicate in flavor than those 
grown elsewhere. 

The lima bean is the most alkaline 
food known. In recent years, to 
meet Dr. W. D. Sansum's demand 
for a highly alkaline bread for use 
in basic diets, the California Lima 
Bean Growers Association has de- 
veloped a lima-bean flour of a high 
degree of fineness. This flour, which 
can be obtained at numerous grocery 
stores throughout the West, is used 
in muffins, pancakes, or waffles, as 
well as in bread. A good muffin 
recipe is given on page 11. 

How to Cook Green Limas 

Shell the green lima beans shortly 
before cooking. (You sacrifice fla- 
vor when you buy those already 



10 



Western Vegetables 



shelled, besides paying for the la- 
bor.) Wash, but do not let stand in 
water. Drop into briskly boiling 
salted water to cover, and cook fast, 
without a lid, until the beans are 
just tender about 30 to 40 minutes 
usually. Remove from the fire, 
drain, add butter and a little cream 
if desired, let boil up, and serve at 
once. Or, better yet, add butter and 
just enough hot water so that it can 
be seen through the beans, and cook 
until water is all absorbed and beans 
tender. The cooked beans may, of 
course, be combined with other 
fresh vegetables, such as corn or 
tomatoes. 

How to Cook Dry Limas 

To revive the fresh, juicy tender- 
ness of dried California limas, pick 
over, wash, and soak them in cold 
water from 6 to 8 hours, or over 
night. Drain. Cover with boiling 
water and cook slowly until tender 
(about 30 minutes). Add salt after 
20 minutes' cooking. (This basic 
recipe applies to either large or baby 
limas.) 

LIMA BEAN SOUP 

1 cupful of lima beans 
\y 2 quarts of cold water 
4 slices of carrot 

2 slices of onion 

4 sprigs of parsley 

1 teaspoonful of peppercorns 

2 cupfuls of evaporated milk 

1 tablespopnful of A-l or Worces- 

tershire Sauce 

Few drops of Tabasco Sauce (if 
desired) 

2 teaspoonfuls of salt 

Wash beans, cover with water and 
soak several hours. Drain. Add the 
cold water and cook slowly until 
very tender, about one hour. After 
cooking one-half hour, add vege- 
tables and peppercorns. When beans 
are tender, rub through a sieve. 



There should be 3 cupfuls of pulp 
and liquid; if not, add water to 
make that quantity. In the meantime 
have evaporated milk heated to 
scalding point. Combine bean pulp 
and seasonings with milk just be- 
fore serving. Yield: 6 servings (5 
cupfuls). 

LIMA BEANS AU CRATIN 

1 cupful of milk 

1 four-ounce package of pimiento 

cheese 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
1 teaspoonful of celery salt 
l / 2 teaspoonful of onion salt 
1 teaspoonful of paprika 
1 teaspoonful of allspice 

1 teaspoonful of A-l Sauce 

3 cupfuls of cooked dried lima 
beans 

Cook milk and cheese in double 
boiler until cheese is melted. Add 
seasonings, and beans, put into oiled 
ramekins and bake in a quick oven 
until brown. 

LIMAS OXNARD 

2 cupfuls of cooked dried lima beans 
y 2 pound of little pork sausages 

2 tablespoon fuls of chopped onion 

1 teaspoonful of sugar 

Y$ teaspoonful of mace 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Y$ teaspoonful of poultry seasoning 

1 cupful of milk 

Bacon fryings 

Shredded green pepper 

Soak the beans in water over 
night, drain, cover with boiling 
water and cook until tender, about 
30 minutes. Add salt after 20 min- 
utes' cooking. Parboil the sausages 
5 minutes ; drain. Combine the lima 
beans, onion, sugar, mace, salt, and 
poultry seasoning. Place in an oiled 
baking dish, arrange sausages over 
top, add the milk, then add the bacon 
fryings and shredded green pepper. 
Bake in a moderate oven (350) for 
30 minutes. This is a one-dish meal. 



Beans 



11 



LI MAS IN CREAM 

2 cupfuls of cooked dried Hmas 
1 cupful of cream or rich milk 

1 tablespoonful of butter 
Y* teaspoonful of salt 

l /% teaspoonful of pepper 

Mix all ingredients in a double 
boiler and cook over hot water until 
thoroughly heated. 

LIMA BEAN MUFFINS 
Sift together: 

YZ cupful of white flour 
YZ cupful of lima-bean flour 
4 teaspoonfuls of sugar 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
Y* teaspoonful of salt 

Add: 

2 /z cupful of milk 

\Yi tablespoonfuls of melted butter 

Beat together just enough to mix 
well, pour into muffin pans, and bake 
in a moderate oven (375) about 20 
to 25 minutes. Makes 10 muffins. 
Nuts, raisins, or dates, chopped, 
may be added if desired. 

(Recipe taken from The Normal 
Diet, by Dr. W, D. Sansum, pub- 
lished by the C. V. Mosby Company, 
St. Louis.) 

BABY LI MAS, SOUTHERN 
CALIFORNIA STYLE 

Wash and soak one pound of baby 
Hmas (dried) over night in water to 
cover. Cook for one hour over low 
heat. Put into a baking dish or cas- 
serole half the beans, cover with 
brown sugar and dots of butter, and 
lay strips of bacon across the beans, 
completely covering them. Then put 
in the rest of the beans, and cover 
them in the same way with brown 
sugar, butter, and bacon. Bake in a 
moderate oven (350) for half an 
hour. This dish has a most unusual 
and enticing flavor. It is the kind 
men will smack their lips over, and 
the children will love it for lunch. 



SCALLOPED SUCCOTASH 

Combine canned or fresh-cooked 
green lima beans and canned corn, 
half and half. Cover with milk, and 
season with butter, salt, and pepper. 
Cover with buttered cracker crumbs 
and bake about 20 minutes in a hot 
oven (400). 

STRING BEANS WITH 
TOMATOES 

3 pounds of green string beans 
6 medium-sized tomatoes 
1 medium-sized onion 
Salt and pepper to taste 
Y$ cupful of butter 

Cut the beans into suitable-sized 
lengths. Wash and drain. Add the 
tomatoes which have been peeled 
and cut into pieces, and the onion, 
peeled and cut fine. Add salt and 
pepper to taste, and cook without 
the addition of water until the beans 
are very tender. Add the butter and 
let stand about 15 minutes over a 
very low blaze or on the back of the 
stove until time to serve. Serves 
10 to 12. These are delicious. 

STRING BEANS, SPANISH 
STYLE 

1 No. 2 can of string beans 
YZ a small onion, chopped 

2 pimientos, chopped 

\]/2 cupfuls of cream sauce 
Salt and pepper 

Do not drain the liquor from the 
beans, but place on the fire in a 
saucepan, with the chopped onion 
added. Cook until nearly dry, and 
the onion is well done. Prepare a 
medium thick cream sauce, using 2 
tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of flour, 1 cupful of evap- 
orated milk, and y 2 cupful of water. 
Add the pimientos, let cook 10 min- 
utes, then pour over the beans and 
serve. 



12 



Western Vegetables 



BEETS 

NEW BEETS, CALIFORNIENNE 

Put into a frying pan half a cube 
of butter, 3 cloves, 1 teaspoonful of 
tarragon vinegar, ^2 teaspoonful of 
sugar, and some freshly cooked and 
peeled small beets. Simmer for a 
few minutes until thoroughly heated 
through, and serve at once. 

Quick Method of Cooking Beets 
Peel young beets as you would 
potatoes, then slice them with a fine 
vegetable slicer, or put through a 
food chopper. Add a very small 
amount of water (about l /4\.o l /2 cup- 
ful) and cook the beets 15 minutes. 
Add butter, lemon juice, and salt 
and pepper to taste, and serve at once. 

BRACKEN 

The fresh, green stalks of brakes 
or of ferns, picked before they 
straighten out, and cooked like as- 
paragus. The earliest "greens" in 
Oregon, and delicious creamed, but- 
tered, or otherwise. 

CARDOON 

A plant related to the Globe arti- 
choke. The leaves and roots are 
cooked and eaten with butter or 
other sauce. Hardy, easily grown 
all year in coast regions. 

BROCCOLI 

Broccoli and cauliflower, so far as 
growers and shippers are concerned, 
are one and the same thing. The 
only true differences are in details 
of plant growth and seasonal adap- 
tation, for there is the white broc- 
coli (which we call cauliflower), as 
well as the green plant with purple, 
bright green, or grayish green buds, 
which we know as Italian broccoli, 
or sprouting broccoli. 

This vegetable is not a newly dis- 



covered one, having long been fa- 
miliar to French and Italian house- 
holds in Europe, but it has only 
recently become popular in this 
country. It is now grown exten- 
sively in central and northern Cali- 
fornia, and southern Oregon. One 
advantage of broccoli is its appear- 
ance on the market when the cauli- 
flower season is over, and it has a 
long season. It is not ordinarily 
grown in the home garden. Analyses 
show that sprouting broccoli is a good 
source of calcium, phosphorus, and 
iron in the diet. It is an excellent 
vegetable for roughage, and probably, 
like other green vegetables, is a good 
source of one or more vitamins. 

How to Purchase and Prepare 

Broccoli is usually purchased by 
the head and paid for by weight. An 
average bunch, weighing from \ l / 2 
to 2 l / 2 pounds, serves from 3 to 6 
persons. The flower heads and the 
more tender parts of the long, 
branching stalk are eaten. This is a 
surprising fact to the uninformed 
Easterner; one woman cut off and 
discarded all the flower heads when 
she first attempted to cook this 
strange vegetable! 

The plant should be cut and eaten 
when the stem is covered with swol- 
len buds, just before they break into 
flower. The tough, stringy lower end 
of the stalk should by all means be 
trimmed off before cooking. The 
thick, tender stalks may be split part 
way so that they will cook quickly, 
without overcooking the tender top 
portions. 

Wash the broccoli well, and, if it 
is limp, let it stand for a short time 
in cold water to crisp it. It may be 
cooked whole, or cut into 2-inch 
lengths. Plunge into plenty of boil- 
ing salted water and cook rapidly, 
uncovered, for 10 to 20 minutes, or 
until tender but not mushy. Drain 



Cabbage 



13 



and serve at once, with melted but- 
ter or Hollandaise sauce. If it is to 
be served cold in salad, plunge the 
hot drained broccoli immediately 
into ice water, to arrest further 
cooking instantly, and to preserve its 
bright fresh color and its flavor. 
When cool, drain and chill. 

BAKED BROCCOLI 

Broccoli for six servings (2 to 3 

pounds) 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
Pepper 
1 cupful of evaporated milk diluted 

with 

1 cupful of water or meat broth 
y*, cupful of buttered crumbs 
% cupful of grated cheese 

Soak broccoli, heads down, in 
cold water. Cook, heads up, in boil- 
ing salted water in uncovered kettle 
until barely tender about 7 min- 
utes. Prepare white sauce of butter, 
flour, salt, pepper, and diluted evap- 
orated milk. Put broccoli in a but- 
tered baking dish, cover with white 
sauce and sprinkle with crumbs 
mixed with cheese. Bake in mod- 
erate oven (325) until crumbs are 
brown. Sprinkle top with chopped 
parsley and pimiento before serving. 
Yield : 6 servings. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 

Brussels sprouts look and taste 
like tiny cabbages. In fact, they are 
just that ! In buying choose green 
ones ; yellow sprouts are likely to be 
too mature or to have been kept too 
long, and therefore of too strong 
flavor. Look carefully for worm 
holes as you wash the sprouts, trim- 
ming and removing imperfections at 
the same time. Brussels sprouts are 
sold by the pound, one pound yield- 
ing about three cupfuls when cooked, 
and serving four to five persons. 



Cook in a large quantity of boil- 
ing salted water, uncovered, 10 to 
15 minutes; drain and serve but- 
tered or creamed or with vinegar. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH 
CELERY 

Remove wilted leaves from one 
quart of Brussels sprouts and soak 
in cold water 15 minutes; drain. 
Cook in boiling, salted water 20 
minutes, or until easily pierced with 
a fork. Again drain. Wash celery 
and cut into small pieces. There 
should be \y 2 cupfuls. Melt 3 table- 
spoonfuls of butter, add celery, arid 
simmer 5 minutes. Then add 3 
tablespoonfuls of flour and pour on 
gradually \y 2 cupfuls of scalded 
milk. Bring to the boiling point. 
Add sprouts. Season with salt and 
pepper, and serve as soon as sprouts 
are reheated. 

CALIFORNIA CREEN SPROUTS 
A LA MILANAISE 

Cook the required quantity of 
Brussels sprouts in the usual way. 
Heat a spoonful of butter in a fry- 
ing pan and in it brown white bread 
crumbs. When fried to a high-brown 
color, drop the cooked sprouts into 
the brown butter and bread crumbs ; 
add 2 or 3 chopped hard-cooked 
eggs, grated Parmesan cheese, 
chopped parsley, salt and pepper, 
and serve piping hot. 

CABBAGE 

Ordinary white cabbage is, of 
course, known and grown the coun- 
try over, and so deserves and re- 
ceives scant attention here. Certain 
varieties of cabbage, however, are 
more generally popular on the Pa- 
cific Coast, among them red or pur- 
ple cabbage, Savoy or curly cab- 
bage, and Chinese cabbage. 



14 



Western Vegetables 



Directions for Preparing 

Chinese Cabbage. This vege- 
table, known also as Chinese lettuce, 
wong bok, or pet sei, comes in long, 
compact, pale green heads. It is 
very tender, and is excellent shred- 
ded fine, raw, and served with 
French or Cheese French Dressing. 
It is also good cooked briefly (in 
boiling salted water, uncovered) and 
served hot with seasoned butter. Al- 
low plenty for shrinkage. It is to be 
had in Western markets all winter 
long. 

Red Cabbage. Red cabbage 
cooked in ordinary hard (alkaline) 
water turns an ugly, unappetizing 
purple. The addition of a little vine- 
gar while cooking preserves or re- 
stores the bright red color. Red cab- 
bage needs longer cooking than 
white, usually 30 to 40 minutes. It 
is frequently prepared with spices, 
German style a favorite dish at the 
States Hof-Braii in San Francisco. 
Red cabbage is good also in the form 
of a raw salad, with a sharp French 
dressing. 

Savoy or Curly Cabbage. These 
heads, with their dark green, crinkly 
leaves, are usually found in Italian 
vegetable markets. They have a 
pungent flavor, and are used in Ital- 
ian vegetable soups. Cut up and 
cook as white cabbage, and serve 
buttered or creamed. 

White Cabbage. Shred and cook 
quickly, uncovered, in large quan- 
tity of boiling salted water. Allow 
8 to 15 minutes, depending on ten- 
derness of cabbage. Drain. Season 
with butter or butter and cream, salt 
and pepper; or prepare in any 
other desired way, as escalloped 
or au gratin. One pound of un- 
cooked cabbage makes Z l / 2 cupfuls 
when shredded for slaw, or 2 l /2 
cupfuls after cooking (3 serv- 
ings). 



RED CABBAGE SALAD 

Slice a head of red cabbage very 
thin, put in a salad bowl, season with 
salt, pepper, one spoonful of oil, and 
3 spoonfuls of vinegar. This salad 
requires more vinegar than oil. 

SWEET-SOUR RED CABBAGE 

(Simplest way of preparing) 

1 small head of red cabbage 
1 cupful of water or stock 
1 small onion, if desired 
1 small tart apple 
3 tablespoonfuls of savory fat or 
butter 

3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 

1 tablespoonful of brown sugar 
Y^ teaspoonful of allspice 

2 whole cloves 

Brown the onion lightly in the fat, 
add the stock and the shredded cab- 
bage and diced apple. Cover and 
simmer until nearly done (about 30 
minutes). Add the vinegar, sugar, 
and spices ; cook a few minutes more 
and serve. A little salt may be 
needed if the fat is not very salty. 

RED CABBAGE 

(More elaborate German style) 

4 tablespoonfuls of bacon drippings 
1 large onion, chopped fine 

1 clove of garlic (may be omitted) 

1 small head of red cabbage, chopped 

1 apple, chopped but unpeeled 

A very little water, if needed 

4 tablespoonfuls of white cooking 

wine (sweet or salt) may 

be omitted 

4 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar 
y* cupful of sugar 
Salt and pepper to taste 
Flour if needed 

In a saucepan melt the bacon 
drippings, and in it cook the onion 
and garlic until a golden brown. 
Add the chopped cabbage and apple. 
Cover tight, and let simmer for 30 
minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 
the wine, vinegar, sugar, salt, and 



Cauliflower 



15 



pepper, and again simmer, and if not 
thick enough you may sprinkle a 
little flour over the top. 

SWEET-SOUR CABBAGE SALAD 

No set rule has been figured out 
for the seasoning of this salad, for 
so much depends upon one's individ- 
ual taste. Anyone with a good sense 
of what a "sweet-sour" should be 
will make no mistake. Just remem- 
ber that the finished salad should taste 
just a little more sour than sweet. 
Here are the proportions to guide you : 

Chop one medium-sized head of 
white cabbage very fine, and sprin- 
kle with salt to taste. (It is insipid 
without salt.) Now sprinkle with 
enough sugar so that it will taste 
sweet, and then add vinegar, little by 
little, until sour enough to taste good 
even if nothing more were added. 
(Do not use pepper.) Arrange the 
cabbage flat in a wide, rather shal- 
low salad bowl a deep platter or 
shallow vegetable dish may be used. 
Now whip half a pint of whipping 
cream stiff, and add sugar to make 
it quite sweet. Then add vinegar, 
little by little, until it is sour enough 
to "match" the sourness of the cab- 
bage. Pour the sweet-sour cream 
over the cabbage, but do not stir 
them together. Serve in the salad 
bowl. This is delightful. 

SOUR-CREAM COLE SLAW 

(6 servings) 

YI cupful of mayonnaise 

Yi cupful of sour cream, whipped 

Y^ cupful of lemon juice 

Y^ cupful of sugar 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Pinch of pepper 

8 cupfuls of shredded cabbage 

Fold the whipped cream into the 
mayonnaise and beat until it be- 
comes very creamy. Add the lemon 
juice, sugar, salt, and pepper, and 



mix thoroughly. Then pour dress- 
ing over shredded white cabbage 
and work in well. Serve on crisp 
lettuce. 

CARROTS 

( See Vegetables General, pages 
33-35.) 

CAULIFLOWER 

Cauliflower (or white flowered 
broccoli) is one of the important 
truck crops of the West Coast, being 
marketed not only in Western cen- 
ters but shipped East by thousands 
of carloads every winter. One who 
has eaten cauliflower fresh-cut from 
the ranch, cooked quickly to just the 
right stage of tenderness, and 
served in simplest fashion, dressed 
with butter and top milk with plenty 
of salt and pepper, will never ask 
for a better vegetable dish. 

How to Select 

Choose a firm head of cauliflower, 
snowy white and free from discol- 
ored spots. The head should be 
tightly compact, as looseness indi- 
cates over-maturity and strong fla- 
vor. A yellow color also indicates 
strong flavor due to exposure to the 
sun. The leaves surrounding the head 
should be bright green and fresh. 

Cauliflower is usually sold at a flat 
rate per head. A two-pound head 
will yield about 3 cupfuls cooked, 
and will serve four or five persons. 

How to Prepare and Cook 

Trim off all green leaves, and 
wash thoroughly. It is better always 
to cut the head into portions for 
serving, in order to be certain that 
the stalk is perfect and that the 
cauliflower may be evenly cooked 
throughout. Have a good-sized ket- 
tle of salted water boiling rapidly. 
Drop in the cauliflower, bring 



16 



Western Vegetables 



quickly to boiling and cook rapidly, 
uncovered, until the stalk can be 
pierced easily with a fork. Drain 
carefully to avoid mashing, season, 
and serve ; or prepare with cheese 
sauce or otherwise, as desired. 

If one wishes to cook the cauli- 
flower in advance of using, plunge 
it into ice water immediately after 
draining, then remove from water 
and chill. It will not discolor when 
treated thus, and can be used for 
salads or other dishes hours later. 

CAULIFLOWER GOLDEN 

Easily made, attractive to serve, 
and good to eat is this simple vege- 
table dish. Cook separately a me- 
dium-sized cauliflower and one cup- 
ful of rice. Place the cauliflower, 
unbroken, in a buttered baking dish. 
Around it and over the top arrange 
alternate layers of the rice, and thin 
slices of American cheese (or a 
thick sprinkling of grated cheese), 
finishing with a layer of cheese. 
Season with salt and pepper, mois- 
ten slightly with milk or a bit of the 
cauliflower stock, and place in the 
oven just long enough to melt the 
cheese. Serve in the baking dish. 

CAULIFLOWER A LA CREOLE 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 small minced onion 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
J^ teaspoon ful of salt 

1 V-2. cupfuls of canned tomatoes 
2 cupfuls of cooked cauliflower 
y 2 chopped green pepper (may be 

omitted) 

1 teaspoonf ul of chopped parsley 
Buttered toast 

Melt the butter, add the onion, 
and cook on medium heat until the 
onion is a golden brown. Add the 
flour and stir until well blended. 
Add the salt and the tomatoes and 
bring to the boiling point, stirring 



constantly. Put in the cauliflower 
and the green pepper, and let cook 
gently for 5 minutes. Add the pars- 
ley and serve on buttered toast. 

CAULIFLOWER OYSTERS 

1 head of cauliflower 

2 eggs 

\ l / 2 cupfuls of broken crackers 

Wash cauliflower, break into 
flowrets, and cook in boiling salted 
water until almost tender. Drain 
and let cool. When cool, dip each 
small piece in beaten egg, then in 
cracker crumbs, and fry in plenty 
of hot fat in a frying pan. Keep 
turning until all sides are a golden 
brown. Serve plain or with a hot 
cream sauce, with or without cheese 
added. 

CAULIFLOWER CUSTARD 

1 medium-sized head of cauliflower 

2 eggs, beaten 

Y$ teaspoonful of salt 

Pepper to suit taste 

1 tablespoonful of butter, melted 

1 cupful of evaporated milk or cream 

Boil the cauliflower 15 minutes in 
salted water, uncovered. Drain and 
chop fine, and add the other ingre- 
dients in order given. Stir well, 
pour into a buttered casserole, set 
the casserole into a pan of hot wa- 
ter, and bake in a slow oven (325) 
until brown and set like a custard. 
It will require from 45 minutes to 
an hour. This is delicate and deli- 
cious. Cabbage may be used instead 
of cauliflower if desired. 

CELERY 

CELERY VICTOR 

4 bunches of celery hearts 

2 quarts of soup stock (either 

chicken or brown stock) 
Sour French dressing (made with 
1 part of tarragon vinegar to 
3 parts of salad oil) 



Celery Root 



17 



Wash the heads of celery without 
separating, and cook in the strained 
soup stock until tender, and let cool 
in the stock. (Stock may be made 
with bouillon cubes or essence, and 
cooked with a few slices of onion 
and carrot, and a bay leaf and a few 
sprigs of parsley for added flavor.) 
Drain. Marinate for at least half an 
hour in sharp French dressing with 
ground black pepper added. Serve 
very cold. 

GLADYS MASON'S STUFFED 
CELERY 

Cut off the tops of a bunch of 
celery hearts evenly, separate the 
stalks, wash, and dry well. Season 
cream cheese or pimiento cream 
cheese to taste, and stuff one of the 
smallest stalks. Fill one of the next 
larger stalks and place it against 
this, forming a ring. Continue rill- 
ing and adding more celery stalks, 
"rebuilding" the head of celery as it 
was originally, but holding it to- 
gether, of course, with the cheese. 
Tie with string, and chill thor- 
oughly. Just before serving, cut in 
slices, using a sharp knife, and serve 
on a plate as an appetizer or relish 
or on lettuce as a salad if desired, 
passing French dressing with it. 
The slices of stuffed celery make a 
beautiful rosette pattern. 

CELERIAC OR CELERY 
ROOT 

Celery root, or celeriac, is rather 
a rough-looking customer, especially 
when brought to market untrimmed. 
One good big one will serve six. It 
is a member of the celery family, 
but the enlarged root is eaten rather 
than the leaves. The outer layer is 
tough and stringy, so a generous 
peeling must be taken off, either be- 
fore or after cooking. 



Celery root makes most delicious 
salads as well as being good as a 
vegetable. Simply wash well (do 
not peel) and cook in boiling salted 
water until tender about an hour. 
Cool and peel as used, otherwise it 
will turn dark. Cooked celery root 
diced with tomatoes and allowed to 
stand in French dressing, and served 
on lettuce, is delicious. Cooked cel- 
ery root may also be creamed, or 
creamed and placed in a casserole 
with grated cheese and bread 
crumbs and baked 45 minutes at 
moderate heat (350). 

CELERY ROOT COCKTAIL 

Boil celery root till tender; dice 
and chill. Serve in tomato cocktail 
sauce combined with mayonnaise 
and much lemon, and seasoned with 
green pepper or Worcestershire 
sauce as desired. 

DANISH CELERY ROOT BALLS 

1 large celery root 

1 pound of round steak, ground 

1 small onion, chopped fine 

Salt, pepper, and sage 

legg 

4 tablespoonf uls of flour 

1 cupful of water 

For gravy : 

2 tablespoonf uls of butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of flour 

Pare and cut the celery root into 
rather large pieces, and boil in 
enough salted water to cover until 
tender. Remove the celery root to 
a bowl and keep hot, saving the 
liquid in the saucepan. 

While the celery root is cooking, 
chop the onion, add the ground 
meat, seasonings, egg, and flour, 
mixing well, and adding the cupful 
of water gradually. Form the mix- 
ture into balls, using a tablespoon, 
and drop them into the boiling 
liquid in which the celery root was 



18 



Western Vegetables 



cooked. Cook slowly about 30 min- 
utes, until done. Arrange the cooked 
celery root in the center of a hot 
platter and the meat balls around 
the edge and keep hot while you 
make a gravy by rubbing together 
the 2 tablespoonfuls each of butter 
and flour, and gradually adding the 
hot liquid in which the vegetable 
and meat were cooked. Cook, stir- 
ring, until smooth and thickened to 
the right consistency. Pour this 
gravy over the meat and vegetable 
on the platter, and serve at once. 
Will serve four persons. 

CHARD 

A member of the beet family. 
Foliage used for greens. ( See Veg- 
etables General, pages 33-35.) 
Similar to cardoon and used for 
same purposes. 

CHAYOTE 

(See Squash, pages 27-31.) 

CHINESE RADISHES 

Chinese radishes, very long and 
white, are often sold by the piece; 
by the yard, one might almost say. 
We use them sliced or diced in sal- 
ads, and sometimes cook them in a 
very little water, to use as a hot 
vegetable with an exceptional, 
mildly pungent flavor. In cooking 
them it is well to remember that 
they shrink a great deal and to al- 
low extra bulk accordingly. Since 
these radishes are to be had from 
early fall all through the winter, 
they may be counted upon to give 
frequent interesting variety. 

CRESS 

Garden cress is a salad plant 
easily and quickly grown as a win- 



ter plant. Water cress, a wild plant 
found in streams, is used as a gar- 
nish and salad accompaniment. Do 
not use unless you know that it 
comes from an unpolluted stream. 

DASHEEN 

A bulb-like vegetable grown to 
some extent locally. It resembles a 
potato in composition and flavor, 
and practically any recipe for pota- 
toes may be adapted to its use. 

EGGPLANT 

Purple eggplant, shining as 
though varnished, is one of the 
most beautiful of vegetables. It has 
always seemed too bad that the 
glossy dark skin must be discarded 
when eating. Eggplant is best 
known when slices of it have been 
batter- or crumb-dipped and fried. 
But it combines well with the ver- 
satile tomato, when cubes of the 
eggplant are seasoned in alternating 
layers with the sliced tomato, but- 
tered crumbs topping the whole, to 
be baked with an entire oven din- 
ner. The eggplant makes a wonder- 
fully fine main dish for the vege- 
table dinner when prepared as di- 
rected here. It shrinks a good deal, 
so generous estimates should be 
made when buying. 

In buying, select plump fruits of 
good color, 6 to 9 inches in diame- 
ter. Eggplants are of good flavor 
after they are one-third grown, but 
when over-ripe they are pithy and 
poor in flavor. 

ENDIVE 

Endive is really a chicory, and 
slightly bitter in flavor. It is 
blanched and used as a salad, or 
cooked as chard or spinach. It is 



Herbs and Flavorings 



19 



grown very little in the West be- 
cause of the greater ease with which 
lettuce is cultivated. 

Escarole 

A variety of endive more suited 
to cooking. Less bitter than chic- 
ory. Cook it like spinach. 



CARBANZO 

A legume called the chick pea, 
used by Mexicans and now being 
grown rather extensively in south- 
ern California. Cook and use like 
other dried beans (see page 34).. 



FINNOCHIO, OR FENNEL 

Fleshy stalks, bulbous at base. 
Cut in small pieces and add to vege- 
table salads (do not use too much) ; 
or slice crosswise in very thin slices, 
dip in fritter batter, and fry very 
quickly in deep fat. Anise is rather 
similar in appearance but different 
in taste. Cut in quarters length- 
wise, it is a frequent addition to 
Italian hors d'ceuvre plates. 



HERBS AND FLAVORINGS 
FROM THE GARDEN 

Every Western homemaker ought 
to take advantage of the heritage 
of flavor brought to this land by 
peoples of all races. In other words, 
every Western home should have an 
herb garden, whether in the form 
of a real bed of various aromatic 
plants, or a scattering of such plants 
among the flowers in the perennial 
border, or in a decorative straw- 
berry jar or two in the rear garden, 
or merely in a kitchen windowbox. 
They are quite easy to grow, most 
of them being raised from seeds 



with the exception of tarragon, 
which is grown from roots or cut- 
tings. Mint, watercress, and chervil 
like cool, shady beds; the others 
prefer as much sun as possible, to 
develop their oils. 

If green, fresh herbs are lacking, 
the dried herbs can be used very 
nicely. 

One caution is worth repeating: 
the use of herbs will give variety to 
one's cooking, but do not use too 
many in one dish or in one menu, 
nor serve them too often. 

Basilica, or sweet basil. Much 
used by Italian cooks in soups and 
sauces, especially tomato sauce. 

Chervil. Has delicate parsley 
flavor. Add, chopped with chives 
and tarragon, to potato salad. Use 
in soups. Sprinkle over buttered 
cauliflower or string beans. 

Chives. Tiny plants with deli- 
cate flavor of onion. Use green 
tops, cut off close to ground and 
chopped fine. Sprinkle over sliced 
tomatoes; add to any vegetable 
salad; add to buttered new pota- 
toes, with or without parsley. 

DHL Fresh dill, that is in the 
markets in the autumn, is fine with 
new boiled potatoes. It is some- 
thing like tarragon. 

Fennel. Use in fish sauces ; chop 
and add to mayonnaise for a differ- 
ent cold sauce for fish. 

Garlic. Onion flavor magnified 
several times, plus a pungency all 
its own. An excellent addition to 
many dishes used with great discre- 
tion. Tiny slivers inserted in leg of 
lamb before roasting help the flavor 
wonderfully. Crush a clove of gar- 
lic and add to a cupful of salad or 
cooking oil; let stand a while, then 
dip lamb chops in this oil before 
broiling. Drop a clove of garlic 
into the jar of French dressing for 
vegetables, meat, or fish salad; or 
rub the salad bowl with a cut clove 



20 



Western Vegetables 



of garlic. When in doubt, use less 
than you are first inclined to ! 

Marjoram. Add to stuffings for 
vegetables, as eggplant, summer 
squash, tomatoes, etc. 

Mint that is, spearmint. Use in 
sauces (hot or cold) and gravies 
with lamb; use to flavor jellies 
(apple jelly is good), ices, and des- 
sert sauces. 

Oregano. This is Spanish sage, 
and is used with dried chili pep- 
pers, cumin seed, rosemary, and 
saffron, in Spanish cooking. 

Parsley. Excellent for flavoring 
as well as garnishing dishes. Add 
a sprig to various soups or sauces, 
and remove before serving ; sprinkle 
chopped parsley over cream soups 
after serving, to add color and fla- 
vor as well. To make parsley vine- 
gar, for salads, etc., wash and put 
into a jar, and cover with any good 
vinegar. Let stand at least a week. 
You will find a parsley mincer prac- 
tically indispensable for chopping 
any of these fresh green herbs. Use 
it on a board, of course. 

Rosemary. Particularly good 
with lamb : mix minced garlic, pars- 
ley, and rosemary, and tuck into 
slashes in leg of lamb before roast- 
ing. Drop a sprig of rosemary 
into cream of chicken and other 
soups while cooking, and remove 
before serving. 

Sage. One of our most familiar 
herbs. Comes to us from England. 
Sage is extremely easy to grow in 
the garden, and a few plants will 
supply the entire neighborhood. 

Summer Savory. Good to add 
to numerous made dishes, as cro- 
quettes, meat balls, rolled steak, 
veal birds, meat stuffiings for pep- 
pers, onions, tomatoes, and so on. 

Tarragon. Mince and add to 
green salads, or to tartar sauce. 
Mince with chives and fresh thyme 
and spread over an omelet before 



folding it. Cream with butter and 
chopped chives and parsley and 
spread over broiled hamburg steak. 
Tarragon vinegar, used in salad 
dressings, fish sauces, and numer- 
ous dishes that need a touch of tart- 
ness and flavor, is expensive to buy 
but easy to make: simply gather 
perfect leaves before the heat of the 
day, wash well, put into a jar, and 
cover with ordinary good cider or 
wine vinegar. Will be ready for use 
in about a week and will keep in- 
definitely. 

Thyme. Use in stuffings for tur- 
key or chicken, with sage and mar- 
joram. 

Watercress. Not merely a salad 
green. Is an excellent garnish. 
Mince watercress fine and cream 
with butter, for spreading sand- 
wiches; fill with cheese or boiled 
ham or other meats, if desired. 

Soup Bouquet : Tie together with 
thread a sprig each of thyme, pars- 
ley, and bay, and a few cloves. A 
stalk of celery, a carrot, and a leek 
may be added. Drop into soups or 
stews while cooking ; remove before 
serving. This is the bouquet garni 
of French cookery. 

KOHLRABI 

Kohlrabi is hard to classify. It 
looks like a root, but grows above 
the ground, in pale green globes, 
with leaves sprouting from the 
sides. It is a distant cousin of the 
turnip, and may be cooked in much 
the same way, giving its own con- 
tribution to vegetable soups and 
meat stews, and adding not only its 
flavor but delicate green cubes to 
many a vegetable plate. Kohlrabi 
may be creamed, or seasoned very 
simply, or used as a component of 
raw vegetable salad. Only a thin 
peeling need be taken off in prepar- 
ing it. 



Onions 



21 



MUSHROOMS 

Mushrooms, fresh, canned, or 
dried, are favorites indeed. In pre- 
paring the fresh ones, wash lightly, 
remove bad spots, but do not peel 
unless the skin is very tough. Slice 
lengthwise if large, and cook in but- 
ter for 5 to 10 minutes before add- 
ing to sauce. When using canned 
mushrooms, drain, and use the 
liquid in making the sauce. 

As for dried mushrooms, wash 
them quickly, then put them to soak 
for half an hour in warm water to 
cover. Lift out mushrooms, strain 
the remaining liquid to remove sedi- 
ment, and use in the sauce. 

Add mushrooms to almost any 
combination of meats, vegetables, or 
eggs, to improve the dish decidedly. 
Italian pot roast with dried mush- 
rooms added is a delicious dish. 



ONIONS AND THEIR 
RELATIVES 

Many members of the onion fam- 
ily are used more commonly in the 
West than throughout the nation 
generally. Leeks, for example. Al- 
most all year bunches of leeks, look- 
ing like overgrown green onions, 
may be found in Western markets. 
Unlike the green onions, whose 
mild-flavored cousins they are, leek 
tops are tender and mild. Usually 
leeks may be cut into two tender 
sections, each three or four inches 
long. When stewed, seasoned with 
butter, salt and pepper or paprika, 
and served on crisp toast, they make 
a delicious addition to the steak din- 
ner, or to one featuring roast 
chicken or duck. Many who frown 
on salads with green onions will 
welcome the same salad mixture 
when sliced leeks are used instead. 
Then there are chives; those cun- 



ning, tiny little onions whose tops, 
chopped, add such a delicate flavor 
touch to salads, cheese mixtures, 
and such. Ordinary green onion 
tops, chopped in about quarter-inch 
lengths, are used by clever Western 
cooks in potato and other salads, in 
tomato sauces, and the like, and to 
sprinkle over such meat dishes as 
pot roast, as a flavorous bit of gar- 
nish, before bringing to the table. 

FRENCH ONION SOUP EN 
CASSEROLE 

6 medium-sized onions, sliced 

2 tablespoonf uls of butter 

3 cupfuls of plain stock (or bou- 

illon made from cubes or beef 

extract) 

YZ teaspoonful of salt 
1 teaspoonful of A-l sauce or 

kitchen bouquet 
Y% teaspoonful of celery salt 
Dash of pepper 
6 slices of French bread 
Grated Parmesan cheese 

Fry the onions light brown in the 
butter, then add the other ingredi- 
ents, and cook gently for 10 or 15 
minutes. Pour into a large casse- 
role, or into six individual ones. 
Place the French bread on top, 
sprinkle generously with the cheese, 
and put into a hot oven until the 
cheese is melted and well browned. 
Serve in the casserole, with more 
cheese. 

FRIED ONIONS 

Onions may be fried in various 
ways. In any case, the onions must 
first be peeled and then cut in slices. 
To fry onions in deep fat, as is done 
in the better restaurants, cut the 
peeled onions in slices about a third 
of an inch thick. Then slash each 
slice to the center, so that the onion 
will be in strings. Roll these pieces 
in slightly beaten egg white, diluted 



22 



Western Vegetables 



with Y cupful of milk or water to 
each egg white, dust them with salt 
and pepper and toss in fine, dry 
bread crumbs. Have a frying kettle 
half-filled with oil, and heat this so 
that it will brown a bit of bread in a 
minute (375). Put the prepared 
onion in a frying basket, plunge this 
in the hot fat and cook until the 
onion is golden brown. Drain on 
crumpled paper. To pan-fry them, 
pour in just enough oil barely to 
cover the bottom, then add the 
sliced onions, dusting them with a 
little salt and a trace of pepper, and 
fry them gently, lifting them occa- 
sionally with a broad-bladed knife 
so they will not be burned. When 
done, they should be light brown 
and very tender. 

POTAGE SOUBISE 

6 large onions 
3 tablespoon fuls of butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
1 y*. teaspoonf uls of salt 
Y% teaspoonful of pepper 
Slight grating of nutmeg 
1 quart of white stock (veal or 
chicken) 

1 pint of rich milk 
legg 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

Peel and slice the onions and 
cook in the three tablespoonfuls of 
butter for 5 minutes, being careful 
not to brown the butter or onions. 
Add flour and seasonings, and when 
the flour is well mixed with the 
onions, add stock and cook for 30 
minutes. Rub through a sieve, add 
milk, and boil one minute. Add egg 
slightly beaten and mixed with a 
little cold milk or cream, and the 
two tablespoonfuls of butter a little 
at a time. Be careful that the soup 
does not boil after the egg is added. 
Season as necessary until it tastes 
just right. Serve with croutons or 
bread dice sauted in butter. 



A SIMPLE ONION SOUP 

3 onions 

2 tablespoonfuls of bacon fat 

3 tablespoonfuls of flour 

2 cupfuls of boiling water 

3 medium-sized potatoes, boiled 

and mashed 

1 quart of hot milk 

2 teaspoonfuls of salt 

y% teaspoonful of pepper 
2 tablespoonfuls of parsley chopped 
fine 

Peel and slice the onions, and 
cook in the bacon fat until they are 
soft; add flour, mix, then slowly 
add the boiling water, and stir until 
the mixture is smooth. Add the 
mashed potatoes to the hot milk. 
Add seasonings, and combine the 
potato and onion mixtures. Bring 
to boiling point, strain, add chopped 
parsley, and serve with fried bread 
dice. 

In place of the potato, if desired, 
you may use 3 slices of stale bread. 

PEAS 

(See also Vegetables General, 
page 33) 

PEAS A LA MADAME 

Cut into quarters one small head 
of lettuce. Place in a casserole with 
a No. 2 can of small peas (or 2 cup- 
fuls of fresh peas and *4 cupful of 
water) and 1 small onion, chopped. 
Add salt, pepper, y 2 teaspoonful of 
sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Cover tightly, and bake slowly 
for 45 minutes to an hour, with an 
oven meal. Two tablespoonfuls of 
cream may be added before serving. 

PEPPERS 

Peppers, which belong to the 
nightshade family, are of many 
types. 



Pimientos 



23 



Sweet Peppers. There are two 
groups of peppers: the hot or pun- 
gent varieties, classed as spices, and 
the large, sweet peppers used as 
vegetables or in salads, pickles, and 
relishes. These sweet peppers are 
grown for market in California in 
quantities. For use as a fresh vege- 
table peppers should be full-grown 
but not turned red. Brown discolo- 
ration is a sign of decay. Perfect 
shapes are more desirable for stuf- 
fing, but for mincing or cutting the 
misshapen ones are often usable. 

Anaheim Chili. The best-known 
hot pepper. Long pods. Used for 
chili con carne, tamales. Alternate 
spellings chile and chilli. 

Bell. A sweet green or red pep- 
per used for seasonings, salads, and 
for stuffing; 

Cayenne. A hot variety from 
which cayenne pepper is made. 

Mexican Chili. A long, hot pep- 
per similar to the Anaheim. 

Pimiento. A mild, sweet pepper 
with thick meat used for canning. 
Often confused with pimento, 
which is allspice from the allspice 
tree. 

Tabasco. A hot seasoning made 
from small, red, pungent "bird pep- 
pers." 

CHILI PEPPER FRITTERS 

Chili pepper fritters are attractive 
and delicious. Use the long, green 
chili peppers. Wash, cut, and take 
out seeds and veins. Place in a pan 
in hot oven until they blister. Re- 
move from the oven and plunge in 
cold water, then peel. Cut a nar- 
row piece of American cheese the 
length of the pepper, and place it 
inside the cavity. Dip the pepper in 
batter and fry until brown. Make 
the batter by sifting together \ l /$ 
cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder, and % teaspoonful 



of salt. Mix with % cupful of milk, 
and 1 egg, beaten until light. 

(See also "Chiles Rellenos," in 
chapter, "Favorite Foreign Reci- 
pes.") 

GREEN PEPPERS A LA SEATTLE 

This unusual way of stuffing 
green peppers provides an entire 
dinner in one kettle. Most men en- 
joy it very much. 

6 green peppers 
YI pound of sausage 
y 2 pound of hamburger 
1 medium onion, chopped 
1 head of cabbage 

Wash cabbage, cut not too fine, 
and put into a kettle, ready to cook, 
but do not add water. Wash the 
peppers and remove the seeds. Mix 
the sausage, hamburger, onion, and 
salt and pepper. Then stuff the pep- 
pers with this meat mixture and 
place in the kettle on top of the 
cabbage. Pour in enough water to 
cook the cabbage, add salt, and 
cover with a tight lid. Cook until 
the meat is cooked (about an hour). 
This served with salad and dessert 
makes a very good supper. 

PIMIENTOS 

The true pimientos, looking like 
small, very smooth sweet red pep- 
pers, too often are known only as 
they come from the can. They lend 
themselves to use both raw and 
cooked. Rings of their bright, fresh 
scarlet, linked together across the 
crisp, white fringed leaves of an en- 
dive salad, present a picture that is 
almost too lovely to disturb. Seeded 
and parboiled, perhaps 8 or 10 min- 
utes, until tender, they may be used 
as most delightfully colored and fla- 
vored cups for golden buttered corn. 
Small sizes make a truly beautiful 
garnish for the pork roast platter. 



24 



Western Vegetables 



RICE 

California rice, grown under ir- 
rigation in the interior valleys of 
the state, differs from the chubby 
long-grain southern rice and the 
slender-long grain Japan rice in that 
its grains are short and rounded. 
Both polished (white) and unpol- 
ished (natural brown) rice are on 
the market. 

This California-grown cereal may 
be cooked in any of the ways recom- 
mended for rice generally. The first 
step toward cooking it really well 
is thorough washing and then more 
washing of the rice grains. A mere 
half-hearted rinsing under the fau- 
cet is not at all sufficient. A good 
procedure is to measure the rice 
into a fine wire strainer and place 
this over a bowl under the cold 
water faucet. As the water runs, 
rub and scrub the rice grains be- 
tween the hands, until at last the 
water runs clear. Then, and only 
then, is it ready to be cooked. 

Cooks who know rice do not add 
salt to the cooking water, as this 
yellows the cereal. Take your choice 
of the following methods of cook- 
ing rice : 

BOILED RICE 

In order to have about 2 cupfuls 
of cooked rice, sprinkle ^2 cupful of 
well-washed rice into 2 quarts of 
briskly boiling water, so that water 
does not stop boiling, and cook rap- 
idly, uncovered (to avoid boiling 
over) for 15 to 20 minutes, or until 
a kernel is tender when rubbed be- 
tween the fingers. Lift or stir oc- 
casionally with a fork if necessary, 
to prevent sticking. Drain through 
a strainer and pour boiling water 
through to rinse away loose starch. 
Return to kettle and place over very 
low heat or in open oven to dry out 



slightly. The grains should be sep- 
arate and fluffy. Serve hot with 
butter or creamed meat or fish, or 
use as desired. 

STEAMED RICE 

(Oriental style) 

Allow at least 2 cupfuls of hot or 
cold water for each cupful of well- 
washed rice. Put into a large kettle, 
cover tightly, and put over quick 
heat. Cook briskly for 10 minutes 
after water reaches boiling. Turn 
down heat, or set kettle where it 
will have heat enough to cook with- 
out actively boiling. In 20 to 30 
minutes the rice should be soft and 
dry, with each grain separate. 

BROWN RICE 

Add 1 cupful of well - washed 
brown rice to 2 l / 2 cupfuls of boiling 
water ; shake pan to level rice, cover 
tightly, and cook over very low heat 
for 40 to 45 minutes. The rice will 
then be dry and ready to serve. 

RICE CROQUETTES 

2 cupfuls of cooked rice 

1 tablespoonful of butter 

2 egg yolks 
Beaten egg 
Sifted bread crumbs 
Tart jelly 

Into the hot rice, which should 
be cooked very soft, beat the butter 
and egg yolks; spread on a platter, 
and set aside to cool. Cut or mold 
into round or oval cakes with a de- 
pression in the top of each. Roll in 
slightly beaten egg with a little 
water, then in fine crumbs, and fry 
in deep hot fat (390) for about a 
minute, or until delicately browned. 
Drain, put a dot of jelly in the de- 
pression of each croquette, and 
serve on the platter with game or 
poultry. 



Rice 



25 



WILD RICE 

Wild rice grows in the swamps 
of the West, but is not harvested to 
any great extent. It is, however, a 
favorite accompaniment for wild 
duck during the Western hunting 
season. To cook it, look over and 
wash in cold water, then put into 
boiling salted water or into boiling 
meat stock to cover, and cook 
briskly for about 30 minutes. Drain ; 
add butter and salt and pepper to 
taste, and serve piping hot. 

BROWNED RICE CAKES TO 
SERVE WITH MEATS 

Cook 1 cupful of rice with 3 cup- 
fuls of hot milk in double boiler for 
45 minutes. When nearly done, add 
butter the size of a walnut, and salt 
to taste. Pack tightly in small pan. 
When cold, turn out, slice, roll in 
flour, and fry brown in butter. 

RICE OMELET 

Add 1 teaspoonful of minced 
parsley and y 2 cupful of cooked 
white or brown rice to the beaten 
yolks of 3 eggs, with 3 tablespoon- 
fuls of milk or water. Fold in the 
beaten whites and cook slowly in a 
buttered frying pan ; finish in a hot 
oven to dry off the top. Fold, turn 
out, and serve with a well-seasoned 
tomato sauce. 

RED RICE 

1 small can of tomatoes (2 cupfuls) 

1 cupful of steamed rice 
5/2 tablespoonful of salt 

2 slices of bacon, finely chopped 
Dash of cayenne pepper 

1 green pepper, chopped 

Stew tomatoes, and stir in rice 
with a fork. Add the other ingre- 
dients and simmer for about 30 min- 
utes, or place in a baking dish in the 
oven for the same length of time, if 
preferred. 



CREEN RICE 

This rice dish is unusual and very 
good. Cook 1 cupful of rice. Add 1 
cupful of milk, 1 egg, 1 cupful of 
grated cheese, half a large green 
pepper (minced), ^2 cupful of pars- 
ley (minced), and half a clove of 
garlic. Mix thoroughly, put into a 
baking dish, and pour over it ^ 
cupful of salad oil. Bake about one 
hour in a moderate oven (350). 

BAKED ITALIAN RICE 

4 cupfuls of cooked rice 

1 cupful of stoned olives, cut in 

pieces 
Y?. cupful of onions, cooked and cut 

in pieces 

y* can of chilies, cut up 
Y-2. pound of grated cheese 
1 large can of tomatoes and juice 
1 tablespoonful of butter 

Put rice, olives, and onions in a 
casserole and mix with a fork. Add 
chilies and half of cheese, and mix. 
Then over all pour tomatoes (which 
have been mashed fine) and juice. 
Sprinkle cheese over top and dot 
with butter. Bake from 2 to 24 of 
an hour in a moderate oven (375). 

This is a fine substitute for meat, 
and is as good cold as hot. 

RICE BUTTERSCOTCH 

l /3 cupful of rice 

\ l / 2 cupfuls of scalded milk 

1 cupful of brown sugar 
l /4 teaspoonful of salt 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

Wash the rice very thoroughly, 
put into a double boiler, and add the 
milk. Cover and cook until nearly 
tender. Mix in a saucepan the brown 
sugar, salt, and butter, and stir over 
a slow fire until the sugar is melted. 
Stir into the rice and finish cooking. 
Pour into molds, cool, and serve 
with either plain or whipped cream. 



26 



Western Vegetables 



TUNA FISH AND RICE 

1 can of tuna fish or 1 cupful of 

salmon 
\y? cupfuls of steamed rice 

3 tablespoon fuls of butter 
\y 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 

2 cupfuls of milk 

^2 cupful of grated cheese 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
Y% teaspoonful of pepper 
Y% teaspoonful of paprika 

With a fork, just roughly blend 
together fish and rice. Melt butter, 
add flour, add milk slowly and stir 
until smooth. Add cheese, salt, pep- 
per, and paprika. Place rice and fish 
in an oiled baking dish, pour cheese 
sauce over, and bake in a moderate 
oven (350) until a delicate brown. 

OLD-FASHIONED BAKED RICE 
PUDDING 

Add y 2 cupful of washed rice to 
^/2 quarts of milk, ^ cupful of 
sugar, and y 2 teaspoonful of vanilla 
in a baking dish. Bake for 2 to 3 
hours very slowly (at 250), occa- 
sionally stirring in the brown crust 
that forms. 

CHOCOLATE RICE PUDDING 

y* cupful of uncooked rice 

4 cupfuls of milk 
2 /3 cupful of sugar 

y^ teaspoonful of salt 

y$ cupful of ground chocolate 

Mix ingredients and turn into a 
buttered casserole and bake in a 
moderate oven (375) until a gold- 
en brown on top. 

BROWN-SUGARED RICE 

This dish is boiled rice, either 
with or without raisins. After the 
rice is cooked, and is still steaming 
hot, pour it into a deep dish which 
has in the bottom of it a cupful of 
brown sugar. When this is cooled, 



turn out and serve with rich cream. 
The brown sugar melts and settles 
into the rice, lending a sweetness 
and a delicate flavor that makes a 
new dish out of boiled rice. 

SALSIFY 

Salsify, looking somewhat like a 
small parsnip with rough, brown 
skin, darkens quickly when scraped, 
so should be protected by being 
cleaned under water, then dropped 
as cut into salted or slightly acidu- 
lated cold water, (Use 1 tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar to each quart of 
water.) Though the flavor is good 
when salsify is cooked and seasoned 
with butter, salt, and pepper, the 
grayish color is somewhat against 
it. A better appearance is given by 
a cream or cheese sauce, or when it 
is used in combination with corn in 
a scalloped dish. Cream soup, fla- 
vored with salsify, really resembles 
that made with oysters. 

SCALLOPED SALSIFY 

This makes a nice substitute for 
scalloped oysters for holiday menus. 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
3 tablespoonfuls of flour 
2 cupfuls of milk and water 

Scrape and cut enough salsify 
into half -inch slices to measure 1 
quart. Cook tender in a small 
amount of salted water. Add the 
salsify to a thin cream sauce made 
by melting 3 tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, smoothing 3 tablespoonfuls of 
flour into it, and adding 2 cupfuls 
of milk, part of which may be the 
water drained from the cooked sal- 
sify. Cook slowly and stir until 
smooth. Add the salsify, season with 
salt and pepper to taste, pour into a 
buttered baking dish and cover gen- 
erously with buttered bread or 
cracker crumbs. Bake in a mod- 



Squash 



27 



erate oven of 350 degrees for 25 
minutes. Serves six. 

SPINACH 

(See also Vegetables General, 
page 33.) 

SPINACH LOAF WITH 
TOMATO SAUCE 

Drain 1*4 cupfuls of cooked or 
canned spinach. Chop fine and add 
1 cupful of sifted dry bread crumbs, 
1 cupful of grated cheese, 1 well- 
beaten egg, 1 teaspoon ful of salt, a 
dash of pepper, and 1 tablespoon ful 
of lemon juice. Pour into a buttered 
bread pan and bake in a moderate 
oven (350) about 25 minutes, or 
steam over boiling water about the 
same length of time. When cooked, 
unmold on a platter and pour 2 cup- 
fuls of hot tomato sauce around the 
loaf. 

SQUASH 

Squash, as such, is scarcely a 
"Native Son of the Golden West" ; 
yet in what Eastern-written cook 
book will you find mention of zuc- 
chini, the little green Italian summer 
squash so much used throughout the 
West? 

There are several types of sum- 
mer squash (really summer pump- 
kins, used green) that are popular 
here: Crook-neck, usually deep yel- 
low but sometimes white with warty 
skin, and a long, crooked neck; 
cushaw, smooth, with curved or 
straight neck and enlarged "body" ; 
vegetable marrow or English mar- 
row (which zucchini resembles), 
about the shape of a cucumber, 
cream color to dark green with 
lighter stripes running lengthwise; 
the patty pan, quaintly scalloped, 
pale green or white, and shaped like 
a small shallow bowl; the cream 



squash, round with thin, white skin 
and yellow meat, bordering slightly 
on the winter type of squash. There 
is also the New Guinea Bean, a nov- 
elty vine which develops a fruit two 
to three feet long. The "bean" may 
be sliced or diced and cooked as di- 
rected for summer squash generally. 

A "new" variety of squash for the 
American table but one which has 
been a staple food for centuries in 
some Central American countries is 
the chayote (cha-yo'-tay), a one- 
seeded squash sometimes called veg- 
etable pear, mango squash, or mirli- 
ton. In the last few years there has 
been increasing interest in the grow- 
ing of chayotes for home use and 
local markets in the West. The fruit 
varies in size from three ounces to 
three pounds. 

The chayote may be plain boiled, 
mashed, fried, stuffed and baked, 
used cold in salads, in fritters, or 
made into sweet pickle. Unlike most 
other squash, the chayote holds its 
form perfectly after being cooked. 
Its flavor is delicate to some per- 
sons it tastes like stewed oysters. 
The root, which becomes tuberlike 
after the first season, is starchy and 
may be boiled and eaten. 

Common summer squash is so 
easily grown in the home garden 
that every home in Sunset Land 
might well have six or eight hills of 
squash which number will un- 
doubtedly be sufficient to supply the 
entire neighborhood! It is at the 
same time one of the least expensive 
vegetables to buy in the market, and 
is the simplest thing possible to cook. 

In choosing summer squash of 
any variety, select those that are not 
too large, for the seeds in large ones 
will be coarse and unpleasant. The 
skin should be so tender as to be 
easily cut by the thumb nail. Small 
firm squash is best always, except 
possibly for stuffing. 



28 



Western Vegetables 



How to Cook 

All shapes and sizes of Western 
summer squash may be cooked 
whole, without peeling, in a covered 
saucepan with just enough boiling 
salted water to keep them from 
burning. (If seeds are coarse, re- 
move them before cooking.) The 
vegetable may then be mashed and 
seasoned and served at once, or 
served without mashing. This vege- 
table may also be quartered or diced 
and cooked as directed above, then 
mashed if desired, or may be added 
to a small amount of well-seasoned 
cream sauce. Other ways of pre- 
paring the different varieties are 
given below. 

SUMMER SQUASH, BOILED 

Pare and cut in slices three sum- 
mer squashes, remove the seeds if 
coarse, and cut the slices into cubes. 
Put them into a saucepan, barely 
cover with boiling water, add a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and boil 15 to 20 
minutes. When done, drain in a col- 
ander and press gently ; then mash 
fine, turn into a strainer cloth, and 
squeeze until the squash is dry. Now 
put into a small saucepan a table- 
spoonful of butter and the squash, 
add salt and pepper to taste, stir un- 
til thoroughly heated, and serve. 

FRIED SUMMER SQUASH, 
SIMPLICITY 

Cut into slices, dust with salt and 
pepper; dip first in beaten egg and 
then in bread crumbs, and fry in a 
small amount of hot fat in a skillet. 
Serve as egg plant, with tomato 
sauce or cream sauce. 

SUMMER SQUASH, FRIED 
IN BATTER 

Wash and slice squash, sprinkle 
with salt, and let stand until time 



for cooking. Make a batter of 1 egg, 
3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 table- 
spoonfuls of corn meal, and just 
enough milk to make a thick batter. 
Beat thoroughly, then dip slices of 
squash into the batter and drop into 
a frying pan of deep hot fat (370). 
Let brown, drain on crumpled 
paper, and serve hot. 

SUMMER SQUASH AND 
CATSUP 

Boil quartered summer squash un- 
covered till just tender. Add butter, 
salt and pepper to taste. Serve with 
tomato catsup. 

SUMMER SQUASH, NATIVE 
SON 

Cut off the corn from four ears. 
Wash one pound of summer squash, 
and cut in one-inch cubes. Put them, 
with the corn, in a bowl and add 3 
peeled tomatoes cut in cubes. In a 
casserole put 1 chopped onion with 
half a cube of butter, and simmer 
until yellow, then add the corn, to- 
mato, and squash, season with salt 
and pepper, cover, and simmer for 
30 minutes. 

STUFFED SQUASH 

Parboil whole 15 minutes. Re- 
move a slice from blossom end of 
flat squashes ; cut long squashes in 
half lengthwise. Remove seeds and 
fill the center with : 

l /4 cupful of cooked rice 
y^ cupful of soft crumbs 
y* teaspoonful of salt 

2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter or 

bacon fat 

An egg may be added 
A slice of bacon may be placed on 

each squash 

Cover bottom of the pan with 
water, put in squash, and bake until 
tender, basting occasionally. 



Squash 



29 



BAKED SQUASH 

Steam or parboil the whole squash 
15 minutes. Cut long squash in 
half lengthwise ; remove a slice from 
end of flat squashes. Place salt, 
sugar, and butter on each squash. 
Bake in a slow oven till tender. In- 
stead of sugar and butter, a strip of 
bacon may be placed on each squash. 

SUMMER SQUASH CUSTARD 

2 pounds of summer squash 
Y-2, pound of well-flavored Ameri- 
can cheese 
Pepper 

y<2. teaspoonful of salt 
2 eggs 

24 cupful of milk 
Corn flakes 
1 tablespoonful of butter 

Boil the summer squash until 
very tender, drain, and put into a 
deep baking dish. Add the cheese, 
except a little which should be re- 
served for the top, cut in small 
pieces. Add a bit of pepper and the 
salt, the eggs beaten just enough to 
blend yolks and whites, and the 
milk. Sprinkle the remaining cheese 
over the top of the squash, then 
cover all with crushed corn flakes. 
Dot with butter and bake slowly 
(at 325) for 30 minutes, or until 
the top becomes a delicious brown 
and the mixture is firm when tested 
with a silver knife. 

Italian Squash 

Here are eight favorite ways of 
preparing Italian summer squash, or 
zucchini. 

FRENCH FRIED ZUCCHINI 

6 zucchini or more 
3 eggs 

1 cupful of salad oil 
1 teaspoonful of salt 

Cut the zucchini lengthwise in 
thin slices, and dip first in salted 



flour, then in the 3 eggs beaten up 
well. Heat the cupful of oil in a 
heavy skillet. When hot, put in the 
zucchini a few slices at a time and 
fry until golden brown on both 
sides. Pile on a hot platter and 
sprinkle with salt. Serve hot. Deli- 
cious with steak. 

ZUCCHINI WITH CHEESE 

6 or 8 small Italian squash, sliced 

thin without peeling 
1 small onion, sliced thin 
3 tablespoonf uls of butter 
3 tablespoonfuls of salad oil 
Pinch of salt 

Sprinkle of pepper and allspice 
Tomato sauce (if desired) 

Fry the squash and onion with the 
butter and oil until a nice brown. 
Sprinkle with salt and allspice. Put 
on a hot platter, sprinkle with 
grated Italian cheese, and serve at 
once. If tomato sauce is desired, a 
small amount may be added after 
the squash is fried. It should then 
be heated through thoroughly, or 
put into the oven for a few minutes 
before serving. 

BROILED ZUCCHINI 

Slice the squash lengthwise, about 
one-quarter-inch thick. Sprinkle the 
slices with salt and pepper, and 
dredge very lightly with flour. 
Sprinkle generously with salad oil. 
On a baking sheet which has been 
rubbed with a cut clove of garlic and 
then oiled lightly place the slices of 
squash, and bake in a hot oven 
(450) for 20 to 30 minutes, or 
until very tender when tried with 
a fork. If not sufficiently brown, 
they may be slipped under the broil- 
ing flame for a few minutes. Serve 
with broiled lamb chops, baked po- 
tatoes, and a green salad, for a de- 
licious meal 



30 



Western Vegetables 



ESCALLOPED ZUCCHINI 
WITH CHEESE 

2 tablespoonf tils of fat 

1 medium-sized onion, sliced 

1 clove of garlic 

4 medium-sized zucchini or sum- 
mer squash, cut into 1-inch 
cubes without peeling 

1 can of tomatoes 

1 tablespoonful of finely chopped 
parsley 

y 2 cupful of cracker crumbs 

Seasonings 

y 2 cupful of cheese 

Place fat in skillet and, when hot, 
add onion and cook for 5 minutes, 
then add garlic, slightly bruised and 
mashed. Cook for a few minutes, 
then remove the garlic. Add the 
zucchini or squash, together with 
tomatoes, parsley, and cracker 
crumbs. Season well, and pour into 
a casserole, sprinkle cheese over the 
top, and bake in a moderate oven 
(350) with cover on casserole for 
45 minutes, or until tender, then 
remove cover and let brown nicely. 

STUFFED ZUCCHINI 

(With meat) 

1 pound of hamburger 

54 cupful of uncooked rice, 

washed thoroughly 
% cupful of milk 
y 2 onion, cut in small pieces 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
y 2 teaspoonful of pepper 
6 or 8 medium-sized squash 
1 can of tomato puree 

Mix hamburger, rice, milk, onion, 
salt, and pepper well together. Cut 
off stem ends of squash and scoop 
out centers. Fill with meat mixture 
packed loosely to give rice room to 
expand. Put the tomato puree into 
a large kettle or waterless cooker; 
heat, then lay the stuffed squash 
carefully in the warm tomato sauce. 
Let simmer slowly for an hour, or 
until rice is soft. Serve with tomato 



sauce over the top. Any left-over 
meat may be cooked, dropped into 
the tomato sauce around the squash, 
and also the squash that was scooped 
out from the centers. This all makes 
a very delicious one-dish meal. 

BAKED STUFFED ZUCCHINI 
(Without meat) 

6 Italian squash, medium size 

y 2 a small loaf of dry bread 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 teaspoonful of pepper 

y 2 teaspoonful of thyme or sage 

1 small onion, chopped fine 

1 egg, beaten 

Wash the squash and cut off both 
ends. Boil 20 minutes, or until 
tender, then drain. When cool, cut 
in halves lengthwise and with a tea- 
spoon scoop out the centers. 
Crumble the bread into small pieces, 
add the salt, pepper, thyme, onion, 
centers of squash, and the beaten 
egg. Mix thoroughly. Place the 
squash shells in a well-oiled baking 
pan and then fill them with the mix- 
ture. Sprinkle with grated American 
or Italian cheese and a little oil, and 
bake in a moderate oven (375) for 
20 minutes or until tender and 
brown. Serves six persons, allowing 
two halves to each person. 

That same convenient little hol- 
low may hold any one of several 
kinds of meat. Small sausage balls, 
link sausages, pork chops, bacon 
strips, and small cubes of salt pork 
all serve to make a good vegetable 
taste still better. 

SIMPLE ESCALLOPED 
ZUCCHINI 

Steam zucchini or chayotes. Place 
in baking dish in layers alternating 
with grated cheese and soft crumbs, 
seasoning each layer. Bake until 
brown in a moderate oven (375). 



Squash 



31 



ZUCCHINI BAKED WITH 
BACON 

Zucchini about the size of salad 
cucumbers may be split in half, un- 
peeled, the cut side covered with a 
slice of bacon, the two halves put 
together and held in place with 
toothpicks, then baked until brown 
and tender, about half an hour in a 
moderate (375) oven. 

Danish Squash 

The Danish squashes begin to ar- 
rive late in summer, and then their 
fine yellow meat resembles the more 
firm varieties of summer squash. 
When fully ripe the texture is much 
drier, but still has the same fine 
quality. At any time these little 
squash will steam or bake with re- 
markable speed; 15 to 25 minutes is 
sufficient cooking time. 

The convenient size (a half 
squash usually making one good 
serving) adapts it to ever so many 
forms of serving. Coming as the 
first ones do, in the height of the 
tomato season, suggests fitting half 
a tomato into the hollowed-out 
squash. Seasonings and buttered 
crumbs top off both, and half an 
hour in a moderate oven brings to 
the table a very good-looking and 
delicious vegetable, a fine one for 
the vegetable dinner. 

Winter Squash 

Besides the old national favorite, 
the Hubbard squash, at least two 
other varieties of winter squash are 
popular here in the West : the small 
Danish or Table Queen squash, green 
to orange in color, and the banana 
squash, large and long, and a soft 
orange in color as to both shell and 
flesh. The cream squash, mentioned 
under summer squash, is also treated 
as a hard-shell squash. 



STEAMED WINTER SQUASH 

Put prepared pieces of squash 
into perforated upper part of 
steamer, cover tightly, and fit into 
lower part of steamer in which are 
about three inches of boiling water. 
Cook until squash is just tender, al- 
lowing ^4 to Yz longer time than 
that advised above for baking. Re- 
move from steamer, add salt and 
butter or other seasonings, and 
serve at once; or scrape from the 
shell, mash and season and serve in 
a bowl. 



WINTER SQUASH, BAKED 

Buy any amount desired (your 
grocer will cut off a piece the size 
you wish) ; cut into serving-size 
pieces, scrape off fiber and seeds, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot 
with butter, and bake until tender 
(15 to 25 minutes for banana 
squash, 45 to 60 minutes for Hub- 
bard) in a moderate to hot oven 
(375 to 425). Serve at once, with 
butter. 



SQUASH SOUFFLE 

2 cupfuls of hot, steamed squash 

*/4 cupful of butter 

2 tablespoonf uls of brown sugar 

1 teaspoon ful of salt 

Y% teaspoonful of pepper 

1^ cupfuls of half milk and cream 

2 beaten egg yolks 

2 egg whites, beaten stiff 

Force squash through a sieve, add 
the brown sugar, butter, salt, pep- 
per, milk, cream, and egg yolks 
beaten. Fold in the beaten egg 
whites and place in a buttered bak- 
ing dish. Bake in a moderate oven 
of 350 degrees until firm and lightly 
browned. This makes a delicious 
dish for the Christmas dinner. 



32 



Western Vegetables 



SWEET POTATOES 

SWEET POTATOES FRIED 
IN MARMALADE 

4 or 5 sweet potatoes (canned 
ones may be used) 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

3 tablespoonfuls of orange mar- 

malade 

Seasonings of salt and pepper to 
taste 

Boil sweet potatoes with skins on. 
When tender, drain, peel, and slice. 
Heat the butter in a skillet, add the 
marmalade, then the sliced potatoes, 
and fry until brown. Add season- 
ings of salt and pepper to taste. 

MISS SHAPLEIGH'S SWEET 
POTATOES IN CASSEROLE 

Pare raw sweet potatoes and cut 
them in sticks as for French fried 
potatoes. Put into a casserole a 
layer of the potatoes ; sprinkle over 
them about 2 tablespoonfuls of 
brown sugar and distribute about a 
tablespoonful of butter in dots, then 
dust with a mere suspicion of cinna- 
mon. Repeat until potatoes are used. 
Pour about l /4 cupful of water into 
the casserole, put on the cover, and 
bake slowly (at 325) for from an 
hour to an hour and a half, stirring 
once or twice; remove the lid the 
last 30 minutes in order to dry off 
and brown the potatoes slightly. 

TOMATOES 

STUFFED TOMATO SALAD 

6 firm tomatoes 

1 cupful of celery, cut fine 

y 2 cupful of minced ripe olives 

Yt cupful of shredded shrimp 

Mayonnaise 

Seasonings 

Peel tomatoes. Scoop out a small 
quantity of pulp from the center of 
each. Sprinkle the inside with salt, 
invert and let stand to chill. Mix 



celery, olives, shrimps, and season- 
ings with mayonnaise to moisten. 
Fill tomatoes with mixture, garnish 
with mayonnaise, and serve on crisp 
lettuce. 

FRIED TOMATOES 

6 medium-sized, solid tomatoes 
Flour, salt, pepper, and sugar 
}/2 pint of cream 

Wash the tomatoes, but do not 
peel them. Cut in halves crosswise, 
dredge with flour, and season with 
salt and pepper and a little sugar. 
Fry in butter until a nice brown, let 
simmer a few minutes, then pour 
the cream over and cook a few min- 
utes longer. Serve on rounds of hot 
toast. These make a delightful main 
dish for lunch, or may be served at 
dinner if the menu is not otherwise 
very rich. Whether this is an ex- 
pensive dish or not depends upon 
the current price of cream. 

TOMATO SANDWICH SALAD 

Put slices of tomatoes together 
with filling of mashed avocado, or 
cottage cheese, mixed with chopped 
chives or onions. Top with mayon- 
naise. 

BROILED TOMATOES 

Wash but do not peel tomatoes; 
cut them in halves crosswise, and 
dip cut surfaces in salad oil or 
melted fat, then in seasoned flour 
and cornmeal. Place in a baking 
pan, skin side down, and broil gently 
until tomatoes are tender and nicely 
browned on top. Tomatoes prepared 
thus may be fried in oil or butter 
instead of being broiled. 

JELLIED TOMATO SOUP 

An interesting, different appetizer 
with which to start a dinner on a 
sultry day is jellied tomato soup. 



Vegetables (Genera!) 



33 



This is nothing more than tomatoes 
to which gelatine has been added. 
When firm and cold, the jelly is put 
through a ricer or sieve and served 
in cold soup dishes with a garnish 
of salted whipped cream. Here is a 
good recipe to use : 

TOMATO JELLY 

1 quart of canned tomatoes 

1 cupful of water 

2 teaspoonfuls of sugar 
1 sliced onion 

3 cloves 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

2 tablespoonfuls of granulated 

gelatine 
y 2 cupful of cold water 

Combine the tomatoes, water, and 
seasonings and simmer 20 minutes. 
Strain. There should be about 3 
cupfuls of the juice. Soak the gela- 
tine 5 minutes in the cold water ; add 
it to the hot tomato mixture, stirring 
until dissolved. Place in a large dish 
and chill in the refrigerator until 
needed. 

TOMATO CUSTARD 

3 eggs 

1 No. 2Y-2. can of tomatoes 
Y-2. onion, grated 
YT. cupful of cracker meal 
Salt and pepper 

Beat eggs slightly, add to toma- 
toes with seasonings and cracker 
meal. Bake in individual molds in a 
pan of water in a moderate oven 
(350) until set, about 30 minutes. 
Turn out on squares of hot toast 
and serve with cheese sauce. 

Little red or yellow pear-shaped 
tomatoes, abundant in September 
and October, are much used for 
pickles and preserves. They are 
equally good for salads, especially 
those of fish or chicken where a 
tomato garnish is desired. 



VEGETABLES (GENERAL) 

Vegetables, in general, fall into a 
few definite classes, according to 
the way in which they should be 
cooked. It is easy to remember 
these general rules, and, once they 
are learned, it is rarely necessary to 
look in a cook book to find out how 
to cook even an unfamiliar vege- 
table. 

First of all, we want to preserve 
the attractive fresh appearance as 
well as the flavor of the vegetable, 
whatever it may be. Slow cooking 
and over-cooking are to be avoided. 
Always put fresh vegetables to cook 
in rapidly boiling water, which has 
been boiling several minutes to drive 
out the air. This is to reduce oxida- 
tion of precious vitamins to a mini- 
mum. Always remove from fire and 
drain immediately when the vege- 
table is tender. Here are specific 
rules for the various groups of 
vegetables. 

1. Cook tender, leafy greens in 
just the water that clings to them 
when they are lifted from their final 
bath of cold water. Put into a ket- 
tle with a cover to start cooking, 
until the juices run. Lift or stir oc- 
casionally to prevent scorching. 
Cook until barely tender. Time 
necessary: spinach, 8 to 15 min- 
utes ; Swiss chard, 20 to 30 minutes. 
Stronger-flavored greens, as dande- 
lion, mustard, beet or turnip tops, 
require water to cover, and should 
be cooked 20 to 30 minutes. Water 
in which ham has been boiled is ex- 
cellent for cooking greens, if not too 
salty. Drain and chop greens before 
serving. 

2, Cook young, sweet-flavored 
vegetables (carrots, celery, peas, 
summer squash, tomatoes) in barely 
enough boiling salted water to keep 
them from scorching. To preserve 
the color of green peas, cook with- 



34 



Western Vegetables 



out a lid. A pinch of sugar added 
helps the flavor. 

3. Cook strong-flavored vegeta- 
bles (all the cabbage family; onions, 
turnips, rutabagas ; kale, turnip tops, 
beet greens, dandelion greens, mus- 
tard greens; old beets or carrots) 
in a large amount of boiling salted 
water, uncovered, so that the odor 
will not be unpleasantly strong in 
the kitchen or the rest of the house. 

4. Cook all other fresh vegetables 
(green and wax beans ; young beets, 
asparagus, artichokes, limas, pars- 
nips, potatoes, sweet corn) in 
enough boiling salted water to 
cover. 

5. After washing and picking 
over, soak dried vegetables over- 
night in water to cover ; drain, cover 
again with cold water and heat 
slowly to boiling, then cook gently 
until tender, adding more water 
from time to time if necessary, and 
adding salt and other seasonings if 
desired during the cooking. Dried 
beans of all varieties (navy, kidney, 
black, marrow, lima, and garbanzos 
or Mexican beans), dried whole or 
split peas, and lentils belong to this 
class. The time required runs from 
about 30 minutes for limas to 3 or 
4 hours for navy beans and others. 
Test by mashing one or two with a 
fork. Salt pork or a ham bone are 
favorites for adding flavor to these 
hearty vegetables. 

Vegetable Plate Meals 
(Suggested Combinations) 



Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce 

Buttered Carrots and Peas 
Creamed New Potatoes Broccoli 



Tomato Custard 
Buttered Artichoke 



Cole Slaw 
Rice au Gratin 



Baked Stuffed Zucchini (with ham) 

String Beans Creamed Carrots 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Eggplant Creole 

Corn Fritters Mashed Zucchini 

Buttered Cauliflower 



Mashed Rutabagas 
Creamed Celery Root 



Baked Sweet Potato 



Spinach 



Asparagus and Pea Timbales 

Cabbage au Gratin 

Stuffed Baked Summer Squash 

Buttered Carrots 

Tomato Stuffed with Halibut 

Sliced Cucumbers 

French Fried Zucchini 

Buttered Rice Mold 

Bell Peppers Stuffed with Corn 

Mashed Sweet Potato 

Creamed Celery Root and Celery 

Pickled Beets 

Zucchini Creole 

Mashed Banana Squash 

Baked White Potato 

Lima Beans 

Corn Creole 

Cauliflower au Gratin Swiss Chard 
Buttered Onions 

Cauliflower with Mock Hollandaise 

Sauce 
Broiled Tomatoes Buttered Peas 

Chopped and Buttered Spinach 

Carrot Balls 

Baked Onion Stuffed with Buttered 
and Seasoned Crumbs 

Green Corn 

Glazed Sweet Potato 

Buttered String Beans 

Baked Peppers Stuffed with Rice 

Grilled Eggplant Buttered Beets 

Cole Slaw with Russian Dressing 

Baked Carrots Stuffed with Onions 

Broccoli 
Baked Potato in Half Shell 

Fried Macedoine of Tomatoes, 
Onions, and Green Peppers 

Beans 
Asparagus with Browned Butter 



Sauces for Vegetables 



35 



Vegetable Salads 

(For salad dressing recipes, see 
Index) 

SAN JOSE RAW VEGETABLE 
SALAD 

Combine approximately equal 
parts of raw spinach, lettuce, cauli- 
flower cut or chopped fine, and 
shredded raw carrots. Marinate for 
30 to 45 minutes (not longer) in 
French dressing, and serve on let- 
tuce. Especially suitable for serving 
a large number of persons. 

GREEN COMBINATION SALAD 

(With French Dressing) 

1 head of lettuce 
1 head of romaine 
1 head of chicory 

1 bunch of watercress 

Wash carefully, separate, and 
then tear in shreds. Serve in a bowl 
with French dressing or mayonnaise 
thinned with lemon juice and highly 
seasoned with mustard and black 
pepper. 

JELLIED COMBINATION 
VEGETABLE SALAD 

2 tablespoonf uls of gelatine 
Y-2, cupful of cold water 

2 cupf uls of boiling water 

y* cupful white, mild vinegar 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

YT. cupful of sugar 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

1 No. 2 can "vegetables for salad" 

(or 1 pint of mixed fresh 

cooked vegetables) 
1 pimiento, cut fine 

Soak gelatine in cold water for 
5 minutes, then add boiling water, 
vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, and 
salt. Set aside until cool. When al- 
most congealed, add vegetables, cut- 
ting string beans and asparagus tips 



in three or four pieces; pour into 
either one large mold or individual 
molds. To serve, turn out on lettuce 
and garnish with mayonnaise, olives, 
and radishes. 

SAUCES FOR 
VEGETABLES 

French dressing and mayonnaise 
are as delightful sauces for hot 
vegetables as they are for cold. 
Young beets and greens, asparagus, 
spinach, string beans, Brussels 
sprouts, broiled tomatoes, and a 
number of others are excellent with 
French dressing poured over them. 
Mayonnaise is fine with hot arti- 
chokes and asparagus as well as 
with cold or with any other vege- 
table with which Hollandaise is 
used. Mustard mayonnaise (made 
by mixing prepared mustard and 
lemon juice, to taste, with mayon- 
naise) is splendid with either hot or 
cold artichokes. Melted butter, 
plain or with lemon juice added, is 
good with artichokes ; or it may be 
mixed half-and-half with chili sauce 
and heated together to make a deli- 
cious sauce. 

QUICK HOLLANDAISE 

4 egg yolks 

YZ cupful of melted butter 

*/4 teaspoonful of salt 

*/s teaspoonful of paprika 

24 cupful of boiling water 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

Stir egg yolks, adding melted but- 
ter gradually. Season with salt and 
paprika. Add boiling water, stirring 
constantly. Put into double boiler 
and cook just until thickened. Re- 
move from fire and add lemon juice. 
Serve hot or cold with hot arti- 
chokes or other vegetables, or with 
fish. (Serves six.) 



36 



Western Vegetables 



REAL HOLLANDAISE SAUCE EASY HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 



y* cupful of butter 

2 egg yolks 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar or 

lemon juice 
y$ teaspoonful of salt and few 

grains of cayenne 

Divide the butter into three 
pieces. In a double boiler or sauce- 
pan place one piece of butter, the 
egg yolks and vinegar or lemon 
juice. Place over steaming (not 
quite boiling) water and stir con- 
stantly until the mixture thickens; 
add a second piece of butter, and as 
it melts, the third and last piece, 
stirring steadily the entire time. 
When butter is all melted, remove 
from heat, add seasonings, and beat 
until smooth and glossy.. 

This sauce should be served as 
soon as made as it cannot be re- 
heated without danger of separa- 
tion. If the butter does separate 
from the egg, add one or two table- 
spoonfuls of boiling water or cream, 
and stir vigorously until the mixture 
blends and is smooth. One hears 
how difficult it is to make a Hol- 
landaise sauce, but it is easy if care 
be taken to prevent separation dur- 
ing the first cooking before all the 
butter has been added. Do not allow 
the saucepan to stand in the boiling 
water, even when the sauce is fin- 
ished. This is one of the finest 
sauces made, and is a great addition 
to fresh asparagus or artichokes. 



MOCK HOLLANDAISE 

Into 1 cupful of medium-thick 
white sauce stir the beaten yolks of 2 
eggs ; add, a piece at a time, l /4 to y 2 
cube of butter, and stir until melted. 
Lastly, stir in 1 tablespoonful of 
lemon juice, add a dash of cayenne, 
and serve at once. 



2 tablespoonf uls of butter 

1 tablespoonful of flour 

l /2 teaspoonful of salt 

Yolks of 2 eggs 

Pepper 

1 cupful of water 

1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

Melt butter and add flour. Bring 
to the boiling point, then add slowly 
to beaten egg yolks. Add salt and 
pepper and lemon juice, and cook, 
with constant stirring, over hot wa- 
ter until thickened. Serve immedi- 
ately. 



CHANTILLY SAUCE 

Fold into Hollandaise sauce, made 
as above, y 2 cupful of whipped 
cream. Very rich. 



BROILED MAYONNAISE 

1 cupful of mayonnaise 
1 egg white, beaten stiff 
Lemon juice, salt, and pepper to 
taste 

Fold the beaten egg white into the 
mayonnaise, season well, pour into 
a shallow oven-proof casserole or 
pie plate, and brown lightly under 
the broiler. Do not attempt to bake 
this. Serve with asparagus, spinach, 
etc. Delicious and different. 



VICTOR SALAD DRESSING 
FOR VEGETABLES 

2 pinches of salt 
1 pinch of fresh ground black 
pepper 

1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar 

2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 

1 teaspoonful of chopped chervil 

Mix and serve on salad greens or 
on vegetables, as cooked celery. 



Sauces for Vegetables 



37 



NEVER-FAIL HOLLANDAISE 

24 cupful of water 
Juice of 1 lemon 
Pinch of salt 

1 tablespoonful of cornstarch 

2 egg yolks 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

Heat water, lemon juice, and salt 



in upper part of double boiler. Add 
the cornstarch dissolved in a little 
cold water, and cook, stirring, until 
smooth and thick (about 10 minutes 
altogether). Remove from stove 
and pour over unbeaten yolks of 
eggs; put back into double boiler, 
add butter, and reheat. This will 
not curdle. 




The West is still a land of gold. If you doubt 
it, look about you on your next trip to market. 
Golden oranges, grapefruit, lemons, apples, apricots, 
peaches, pears edible gold, nestled among the rich 
green of avocados, the crimson of cherries, the red- 
purple of grapes, the rich brown of nuts. Best of 
all, these are riches we can all share, whether we 
have much or little money to spend. Was ever 
mere eating such an adventure, such a thrill? 



40 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



WESTERN FRUITS 

Fresh or cooked, in salads, rel- 
ishes, and desserts, our Western 
fruits occupy a highly important 
place in our daily menus. 

APPLES 

Early apples are not so important 
here in the West as in some other 
parts of the country, probably ow- 
ing to the fact that peaches, grapes, 
and other luscious summer fruits 
compete too strongly for favor. Fall 
and winter apples, however, are tre- 
mendously important, from the fa- 
mous Wenatchee Valley of Wash- 
ington to southern California. Gra- 
venstein and Yellow Bellflower, for 
fall, and Yellow Newtown Pippin 
and White Winter Pearmain are 
perhaps the most common and most 
popular California apples, while De- 
licious, Jonathan, Northern Spy, 
and Grimes Golden are among the 
general favorites in the Northwest. 

OLD-FASHIONED APPLE 
SALAD 

Tart apples, diced 
Pineapple, cubed 
Oranges, cut small 
Celery, cubed 
Bananas, cubed 
Marshmallows, cut small 
Nuts 
Dates 

Boiled dressing, mixed with 
whipped cream 

Mix any desired quantity of the 
fruits listed; pineapple or orange 
will keep the apples from turning 
dark, even though the salad stands 
for some time. Mix lightly with 
boiled dressing made fluffy with 
whipped cream. 

BAKED APPLE DELIGHT 

In a baking dish put alternate 
layers of sliced Gravenstein or other 



firm apples (peeled or not, as you 
wish) and sugar. Cover and bake in 
a very slow oven (300) for 2 or 
3 hours, depending on the quantity 
of apples. Serve cold with whipped 
cream. This is an extremely deli- 
cate dish, the texture being much 
like that of jelly. 

APPLE SAUCE CAKE 

(Grows better with age) 

1 cupful of brown sugar 

Y-Z cupful of shortening 

1 cupful of thick, unsweetened 

apple sauce 
legg 

1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 
Y-2. teaspoonful of nutmeg 
54 teaspoonful of cloves 
l /4 teaspoonful of allspice 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 

\ l / 2 cupfuls of flour 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
y 2 teaspoonful of soda 

y 2 cupful of chopped walnuts 

Cream shortening and sugar. Add 
applesauce and beaten egg. Sift and 
measure flour; sift several times 
with other dry ingredients. Add 
nuts and combine with first mixture, 
mixing thoroughly. Bake in a loaf 
pan or in 2 layers in a moderate 
oven: loaf (350 to 375) 45 to 60 
minutes; layer (375) for 20 min- 
utes. Half a cupful of raisins may 
be added if desired. Serve plain or 
with caramel or cream cheese icing. 

MINT APPLES 

(For leg of lamb) 

Small Jonathan apples, peeled 
(Pippins or Roman Beauties 
can also be used) 

1 cupful of sugar 

y 2 cupful of water 

As soon as sugar and water boils, 
drop in apples. Cover with syrup 
and turn apples. Keep covered and 
cook gently. Add 1 drop of green 
coloring and mint flavoring. Cook 



Apples 



41 



until apples are done (don't let them 
get too soft) . They will have a won- 
derful glazed appearance and make 
a lovely garnish around a leg of 
lamb. This takes the place of mint 
sauce. 

APPLE CARAMEL PUDDING 

Fill a shallow baking dish with 5 
or 6 thinly sliced raw apples. Pour 
over all the following : 

YI cupful of water 

Y-2. teaspoonful of cinnamon 

Mix together as for pastry: 

1 cupful of brown sugar 
y* cupful of flour 
Y-2 cupful of butter 
% teaspoonful of salt 
1 cupful of grape nuts (may be 
omitted) 

Cover apples with mixture. Bake 
uncovered at 375 degrees for one 
hour. Serve hot with cream. 



GRAHAM-APPLE PIE 

2 cupfuls of finely ground or rolled 

graham cracker crumbs 
y 2 cupful of softened butter 

2 cupfuls of thick, sweetened apple 

sauce 

Y^ teaspoonful of cloves 
1 cupful of cream, whipped 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

Rub the softened but not melted 
butter with the cracker crumbs to 
mix thoroughly. Line a nine-inch 
pie plate with mixture by packing in 
very firmly with ringer tips. Bake 
in moderate oven (350) for 15 
minutes. When thoroughly cold, fill 
shell with the apple sauce seasoned 
with cloves and cover with sweet- 
ened whipped cream. Serve at once. 
Care should be taken in cutting the 
tart, and a wide spatula or server 
should be used, because the crust is 
very tender. 



APPLE RELISH 

To one package of lemon-flavored 
gelatine, prepared according to the 
directions on the package, add 1 
cupful of spiced, tart applesauce. 
When it hardens, serve it as a rel- 
ish with roast pork or broiled pork 
chops. It is also a delicious salad, 
topped with a cream dressing, for 
an informal bridge luncheon. 

GREEN APPLE PIE 

Plain pastry (for a two-crust pie) 

2 cupfuls of flour 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
2 /s cupful of shortening 

4 to 6 tablespoonfuls of ice water 

Mix and sift dry ingredients ; add 
shortening, cutting it in with a pas- 
try flaker or two silver knives, leav- 
ing shortening in pieces the size of 
an almond.. Add water, a table- 
spoonful at a time, mixing with a 
spatula, being careful not to add 
too much water, as that will toughen 
the pastry. It is best to chill pastry 
dough for an hour before rolling, 
and handle as little as possible. Roll 
out to 1/16 inch in thickness. Fit 
in bottom crust, let it slip into posi- 
tion, and do not stretch; fill with: 

5 or 6 tart apples 
l l / 2 cupfuls of sugar 

y? teaspoonful of cinnamon 

3 tablespoonfuls of flour 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

Dice apples ; mix well together 
with sugar, cinnamon, and flour, 
then add vanilla and pour into the 
pie pan. Dot with butter, and put on 
the top crust, which has been well 
slit, then brush with cream, and 
sprinkle with granulated sugar. 
Bake in a hot oven (450) for 10 
minutes, then reduce heat to mod- 
erate (350) and bake for 45 min- 
utes. Serve warm, with cheese. 



42 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



APPLE HORSERADISH SAUCE WESTERN APPLE DUMPLINGS 



y^ pint of cream, whipped 
1 cupful of apple sauce 
1 small jar of horseradish 

Combine, and serve at once. De- 
licious with ham. 



APPLE COFFEE CAKE 

2 cupf uls of flour 
YI teaspoonful of salt 

2 teaspoonf uls of baking powder 
24 cupful of sugar 

1 egg 

3 tablespoonfuls of salad oil 
2 /3 cupful of milk 

3 or 4 apples 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter 
y* teaspoonful of cinnamon 

Sift the flour, measure 2 cupfuls, 
then add salt, baking powder, and 
54 cupful of sugar and sift again. 
Beat the egg, add the salad oil and 
beat until blended, and add the milk, 
then mix together the dry and the 
liquid mixtures. Spread the batter 
in two greased layer-cake pans or 
one larger shallow pan. Pare and 
core apples and cut lengthwise into 
rather thick slices, then cover the 
batter with these slices, pressing the 
sharp edges deeply into the batter. 
Sprinkle a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter over surface of each of the 
two cakes, then cover each with y$ 
cupful of sugar mixed with ^ tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon. Place in a 
hot oven (400) and bake until 
cakes begin to brown at edges (15 
to 20 minutes), then reduce heat to 
moderate (350) and bake until 
apples in center of cake are soft 
when pierced with a sharp-pointed 
knife, about 20 to 30 minutes longer. 
Serve as a breakfast coffee cake, an 
afternoon tea cake, or as a dessert 
with whipped cream. 



To be truthful, the recipe for 
these dumplings came from Ken- 
tucky, but it has been used here in 
Sunset Land, and made with West- 
ern apples, long enough to become 
Western itself ! I assure you these 
dumplings are the way to any man's 
heart but don't give them to him 
after too hearty a dinner. Here are 
the necessary ingredients. 

For the filling: 

6 cooking apples 

Sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg 

For the syrup : 
3 cupfuls of sugar 
Y^ cupful ( l / 2 cube) of butter 
% teaspoonful each of cinnamon 

and nutmeg 
2 cupfuls of water 

For the pastry : 
2 cupfuls of flour 

2y 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
24 cupful of shortening 
Milk to make a soft dough 

Put the ingredients for the syrup 
together first, and let them boil 
down rather thick while paring and 
coring the apples and cutting them 
in eighths and preparing the pastry. 
For the pastry, sift the flour, baking 
powder, and salt together, and cut 
or rub in the shortening as for bis- 
cuits ; add just enough milk to make 
a soft dough. Roll out medium thin 
on a lightly floured board and cut 
into 5-inch squares. In the center of 
each square arrange 5 or 6 pieces of 
apple, sprinkle generously with sug- 
ar, add a dash of cinnamon and 
nutmeg and a dot of butter, and fold 
the corners over so that all the apple 
is covered. Place these as made into 
a large, flat pudding pan which has 
been buttered. When all the dum- 
plings are arranged, pour the heavy 
syrup over them and bake until 
slightly browned in a moderate oven 



Apricots 



43 



(375) about 30 minutes. When 
this stage is reached, pour a table- 
spoonful of undiluted evaporated 
milk over each dumpling and return 
to the oven until flaky on top. Serve 
hot or cold as desired (we like them 
hot) with thin cream, whipped 
cream, or a caramel sauce as pre- 
ferred or convenient, or with no 
sauce at all. You will delight in this 
old-fashioned recipe. 

HAM-APPLE PIE 

3 slices of ham, cut from center 

4 or 5 tart apples 
Brown sugar 
Half a lemon 

Have the ham sliced about j4-inch 
thick. Cut into convenient pieces 
for serving. Peel and slice the ap- 
ples. Place a layer of ham in bottom 
of a baking dish, cover with sliced 
apples, and sprinkle with brown 
sugar about 1 teaspoon ful to each 
layer, though the amount must be 
governed by the tartness of the ap- 
ples. Repeat the layers until the 
dish is full, having apples on top. 
Squeeze over the dish the juice of 
half a lemon, and bake in a moder- 
ately hot oven (375) for 45 min- 
utes, having the dish covered until 
the apples begin to cook; then re- 
move the cover and brown the ap- 
ples, allowing the juice to cook 
down until it is thick. Serves six to 
eight. To serve a smaller number of 
persons, use an oven-glass pie plate 
and smaller quantities of ham and 
apples. If the apple slices on top 
are arranged to overlap neatly in 
concentric rings, a very attractive 
dish for guests is prepared. 

EXTRA-SPECIAL APPLE SAUCE 

Pare and quarter Gravenstein ap- 
ples, remove cores, and cut in fairly 
thick slices. Add just a little water, 
and cook, covered, until the apple 



slices are almost tender. Remove 
cover, add sugar to suit taste, and 
sprinkle generously with ground 
cinnamon. Cook just long enough 
for the syrup to go through the 
apples, cool slightly, and serve with 
pork chops, ham, or any other meat. 
One apple will serve two persons. 

APRICOTS 

The Pacific slope has a world 
monopoly on commercial apricot- 
culture. California leads in produc- 
tion (furnishing from 90 to 95 per 
cent of the total crop), but Arizona, 
eastern Washington and Oregon, 
Idaho, and Utah are also growing 
this fruit. 

A relatively small proportion of 
the fruit is used fresh. Canning and 
drying take the great bulk of the 
crop, with drying much more im- 
portant than canning. 

Most of the varieties grown for 
the market are freestones, and can 
accordingly be peeled by dipping in 
boiling water to loosen the skins. 
For most purposes, however, it is 
not necessary to peel the apricot, as 
the skin is tender and thin. 

The fragrant, fresh fruit, halved 
or diced, is a welcome addition to 
cottage cheese salads, fruit salads, 
and fruit mixtures generally. Spe- 
cial uses for dried apricots will be 
found in the section devoted to dried 
fruits (see pages 105-107). Also 
see chapter on canning, preserving, 
and pickling. 

Apricots, mashed and sweetened, 
either cooked or raw, are a splendid 
fruit to use in Bavarian Cream and 
similar desserts, or as a sauce for 
ice cream. Apricot and pineapple 
are a favorite combination for vari- 
ous purposes, from Upside-Down 
Cake to Pinecot Jam. Don't be 
afraid to try using this delicious 
fruit in different and original ways.. 



44 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



SACRAMENTO SUNSHINE 

1 cupful of ripe apricot jam 

% teaspoonful of salt 

1 cupful of cream, whipped 

Beat jam until soft and smooth, 
add salt, and fold into the whipped 
cream. Put into tray of mechanical 
refrigerator and freeze 4 hours or 
longer; or pour into a mold, cover 
with waxed paper, press cover down 
tightly over paper, and pack in 
equal parts of ice and salt for 4 
hours or more. This makes I 1 /* pints 
of mousse. 

SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER 
SALAD 

No. 1 can of crushed pineapple 

1 package of lime or lemon gela- 

tine 

2 cupfuls of liquid (pineapple juice 

and water) 

Fresh apricots peeled and halved 
Chopped celery 
1 pound of cottage cheese 
Mayonnaise, cream, paprika 

Dissolve the gelatine in 1 cupful 
of boiling water, and add juice from 
pineapple with enough water to fill 
cup. When cool add crushed pine- 
apple. Line bottom of ring mold 
with peeled, halved apricots, then a 
layer of chopped celery, and enough 
gelatine mixture to cover ; continue 
with layers of apricots, celery, and 
gelatine until mold is full. Chill, 
and when firm, turn out on a bed of 
lettuce and fill center with cottage 
cheese. Top with a generous spoon- 
ful of mayonnaise thinned with 
cream and a dash of paprika. 

APRICOT MERINGUE PIE 

Drain the juice from one No. 2 
can of apricots into a small sauce- 
pan, add 1 cupful of sugar (more 
or less according to desired sweet- 
ness, of course), and heat together. 
Stir 3 level tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch with a small quantity of 



the syrup and when the juice in the 
saucepan is hot add this to it, stirring 
until thick and clear. Add 1 tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice, remove 
from the fire and let cool. Carefully 
arrange the apricot halves in a baked 
pie shell, and pour the cooled fruit 
syrup over them. Lightly add a 
delicate meringue made by beating 
3 egg whites stiff, and beating in 6 
tablespoonfuls of sugar and a dash 
of lemon flavoring. Brown very 
slowly in the oven (at 300). This 
is delicious and tempting. 

APRICOT DAINTY 

(Serves four persons) 

2 cupfuls of mashed cooked apri- 
cots (fresh, canned, or dried) 
1 cupful of diced marshmallows 
Y^ teaspoonful of almond flavoring 
YZ cupful of shredded cocoanut or 
blanched almonds 

After the apricots have been 
cooked until they are tender, cool 
them slightly. Add the flavoring 
and the diced marshmallows, and 
when they melt, fold the mixture 
until the texture is uniform. Serve 
in sherbet glasses, chilled, and gar- 
nish with the nuts or cocoanut. 
Little crisp wafers should accom- 
pany this. 

APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM 

1 package of lemon flavored gela- 
tine 

1 cupful of boiling water 
1 cupful of apricot pulp, fresh or 

canned 

1 cupful of apricot juice 
24 cupful of whipping cream 

Dissolve the gelatine in the boil- 
ing water. Add the fruit juice, and 
let stand until it begins to thicken. 
Beat with a rotary egg beater until 
light and fluffy, then fold in the 
fruit pulp and whipped cream. Chill 
in molds, then unmold and serve 
with apricot sauce. 



Avocados 



45 



APRICOT SAUCE 

1 cupful of apricot syrup (from 

canned fruit) 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

1 teaspoonful of cornstarch 
1 teaspoonful of lemon juice 
1 teaspoonful of butter 

Mix the sugar and cornstarch, 
add the fruit juice, and boil until 
clear, about 5 minutes. Add the 
lemon juice and butter. Serve cold 
with cold desserts, or hot with 
baked or steamed puddings. 



RICE A LA APRICOTS 

Cook 1 cupful of washed rice in 
1 quart of milk, using the double 
boiler. When tender, add ^ tea- 
spoonful of salt and 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of butter. Butter a baking dish 
and in it spread alternate layers of 
rice and hot stewed apricots. Bake 
in a slow oven (350) about 20 
minutes, and serve warm with cream 
and sugar. Other fruits may be 
used in place of the apricots if de- 
sired. Plums, apples, peaches and 
other kinds of dried or fresh fruit 
will give very good results also. 



AVOCADOS 

One of the most interesting of 
Western tree fruits is the avocado, 
or alligator pear as it used to be 
called. This tropical fruit is like 
nothing else that I know of. Pear- 
shaped to rounded oval in form, the 
tough green to purplish black skin 
encases rich, soft flesh, with a single 
large round pit in the center. Out 
of hundreds of varieties and varietal 
strains growing in Mexico and Cen- 
tral America, a limited number have 
been selected for growing in the 
West. Southern California is the 



chief producing area with a few 
scattering orchards in various "ther- 
mal belts" or warm, frost- free 
pockets in other sections of the state. 

Avocados must be sun-ripened on 
the tree in order to be flavorful. It 
is a strange fact, however, that avo- 
cados never soften on the tree, and 
so they are never ready to eat when 
freshly picked. They are ready to 
serve only when the flesh is thor- 
oughly softened. To test, press the 
fruit gently in the full hands. Do 
not poke an avocado with the finger 
to test it. This is likely to bruise 
and discolor it. They soften nat- 
urally in a few days when kept at 
room temperature. If it is desired 
to hold them back for a few days, 
keep them in a cool place. On the 
other hand, to hasten softening, 
keep in a warm room or wrap each 
fruit in soft paper. Do not over- 
heat. After avocados are soft 
enough to be eaten, they may be 
stored temporarily on the upper 
shelf of the refrigerator, since this 
is the least-cold spot in the box. Do 
not place them directly on ice or too 
near the freezing coils. Unused cut 
portions should be tightly wrapped 
in waxed paper to prevent darken- 
ing. 

Avocados are marketed under 
certain trade names as "Calavo," 
"Caligator Pear," "Calif," and the 
like, which represent certain stand- 
ards of quality. Calavo, for ex- 
ample, indicates that the fruit 
stamped with this name (a contrac- 
tion of Ca/ifornia avocado) has 
passed laboratory tests which prove 
that the flavor is fully developed, 
and that there is enough of the deli- 
cate fruit-oil to establish maturity. 

Good avocados are an easily di- 
gested, high-energy food, rich in 
calcium, phosphorus, iron, and other 
minerals, as well as furnishing vita- 
mins A, B, D, E, and G. 



46 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



How to Prepare 

Avocados are simple to prepare, 
but a pointer or two may be helpful. 

If you wish to obtain neat-looking 
peeled halves of avocado, it is best 
to cut the avocado in half and re- 
move the seed before peeling, for 
the soft flesh mashes badly if one 
peels it first and then attempts to 
separate the flesh from the seed. A 
slight twisting motion separates the 
halves much more readily than does 
any attempt to pry them apart. 

On the other hand, if you wish 
good-looking long strips or slices, 
peel it first, then slice lengthwise on 
the seed, and remove in sections. 

How to Serve 

Probably the simplest service, and 
certainly one of the prettiest and 
most enjoyable, is to cut the un- 
peeled avocado lengthwise, take out 
the seed, sprinkle with salt and pa- 
prika, and serve on a lettuce leaf, 
with quarters of lemon. The lemon, 
of course, is to be squeezed over the 
fruit. A spoon rather than a fork 
is provided for eating. 

Another highly favored way of 
enjoying the avocado is to mash the 
well-softened fruit with a fork, or 
press it through a strainer, season 
well with lemon juice and salt, and 
serve spread on hot buttered toast. 
It makes a gorgeous and unusual 
breakfast or an equally good supper 
or lunch dish. It is nice to pile this 
mashed avocado mixture in a rough 
mound on a plate and serve with 
assorted crisp crackers as the per- 
fect ending to a dinner; or spread 
on crackers and serve with tomato 
juice or other cocktails before dinner. 

The avocado is so good and so 
pretty in its original state that it 
seems rather a shame to make it 
into too elaborate dishes. A number 
of fairly simple suggestions for va- 
rious combinations follow. 



AVOCADO COCKTAIL SALAD 

Take medium-sized avocado, cut 
in half lengthwise, remove pit and 
fill cavity with catsup cocktail sauce. 
Arrange on bed of shredded lettuce 
and serve as the opening course with 
salted wafers. An interesting varia- 
tion of this service is to fill the cavi- 
ties with oyster or crab or other sea- 
food cocktail. 

If avocados are large, cut in small 
cubes (about ^2 inch), arrange in 
cocktail glasses and pour cocktail 
sauce over the cubes. Almost any 
fruit or vegetable may be combined 
with the cubed avocado: artichoke 
hearts, celery, grapefruit, tomato, 
and so on. Any cocktail sauce may 
be used, or French or Thousand Is- 
land dressing. 



ARTICHOKE-AVOCADO 
COCKTAIL 

1 can of tiny artichokes 
1 medium-sized avocado 

Drain the juice from the can of 
artichokes, then cut them either in 
halves or quarters. Dice the avo- 
cado. Have both well chilled. Serve 
with Sauce Supreme. 

Sauce Supreme 
l /z cupful of mayonnaise 
l /3 cupful of whipped cream 
Vz cupful of tomato catsup 
1 teaspoonful of A-l or Worcester- 
shire sauce 

1 teaspoonful of horseradish 
1 teaspoonful of lemon juice 

Blend all ingredients for sauce, 
having everything well chilled in ad- 
vance. Arrange artichoke and avo- 
cado attractively in cocktail glasses, 
sprinkle a little chopped celery over 
them, then add sauce, and garnish 
each with parsley, chopped fine, and 
a slice of lemon. 



Avocados 



47 



AVOCADO AND CELERY 
COCKTAIL 

2 avocados, peeled and cut in 

small cubes 

y 2 cupful of celery, diced small 
Y^ cupful of mayonnaise 
Y-Z cupful of chili sauce 
*/4 cupful of whipped cream 
2 tablespoonfuls of catsup 
1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar 

Combine the avocados and celery, 
and add to the other ingredients 
which have been blended together. 
Chill and serve in cocktail glasses 
set in a bed of cracked ice. 



CALAVO COCKTAIL SAUCE 

(From CHEF JOSEPH MEYER, 
of Hotel Mark Hopkins) 

4 teaspoonfuls of mayonnaise 
2 teaspoonfuls of chili sauce 
1 soupspoonful of French dressing 
1 teaspoonful of chopped pimientos 
YZ teaspoonful of chopped olives 

Add salt and pepper to taste and 
mix well. Serve poured over diced 
Calavos in cocktail glasses. 



BOUILLON WITH AVOCADO 

You may think this sounds a bit 
"queer" but it is as delicious as it is 
simple to make. The ingredients are : 

1 can of chicken broth 
1 can of water 

y 2 can of clear clam bouillon 
Avocado, cubed 
Salted cooking sherry 
Additional salt to taste 
Whipped cream 
Parsley and paprika 

Mix the chicken broth, water, and 
clam broth, and heat piping hot. Peel 
and cube the avocado, and put a 
spoonful into each bouillon cup. 
Just before removing the broth 
from the fire, add a tablespoonful 



or two of salted cooking sherry, and 
a little more salt if necessary. Pour 
the very hot broth over the avocado 
cubes, top with whipped cream, and 
sprinkle with paprika and a bit of 
parsley, chopped fine. Serve with 
crisp salted wafers. 



AVOCADO WITH CLAM AND 
TOMATO BROTH 

(Serves 5) 

Heat separately one can of minced 
clams and one can of tomato soup, 
diluting each with one can of water. 
(Do not bring the clams to the boil- 
ing point but only simmer until 
heated thoroughly.) Then mix the 
clams and tomato soup and, just a 
minute before serving, add a little 
over half a cupful of finely diced 
avocado. Should you prefer tomato 
without clams, use the tomato soup 
diluted, add a little butter, and then 
add the diced avocado just before 
serving. 

Avocado Canape 

Fry slowly or broil thin slices of 
bacon until crisp but not brittle. Mix 
together y 2 cupful of mashed avo- 
cado, y 2 cupful of grated American 
cheese, % teaspoonful of salt, and 
pepper to taste. Put thin slices of 
day-old bread into the oven, near 
the top, until thoroughly hot but not 
toasted. On each slice of bread place 
2 slices of the broiled bacon, and 
over the bacon spread the avocado- 
cheese mixture. Place under a low 
broiling flame until the cheese is 
melted and the edges of the bread 
toasted. Serve at once, with a raw 
vegetable salad, or a tomato and let- 
tuce salad with chopped celery 
added. No butter is required for 
these, as the mixture is very rich. 



48 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



AVOCADO CANAPE 

YI cupful of mashed avocado 
Yz cupful of sweet canned red 

pepper 
1 tablespoonful of mayonnaise 

dressing 
% teaspoonful of Worcestershire 

sauce 

Salt and pepper 

Hard-cooked egg, chopped fine 
Chopped parsley 

Put the avocado and red pepper 
through a sieve, add mayonnaise and 
other seasonings. Spread on rounds 
of toast or bread and garnish with 
hard-cooked egg and parsley. 

BACON AND AVOCADO 
SANDWICH 

Make a club sandwich, using 
crisp bacon in one layer, and lettuce 
covered with a thick layer of 
mashed avocado in the other. Simply 
salt the avocado to taste, and add a 
little mayonnaise or lemon juice if 
desired. The bacon and avocado 
seem to be born affinities in flavor. 
Toasted wholewheat bread is espe- 
cially good for this sandwich. 

AVOCADO, GRAPEFRUIT, AND 
PERSIMMON SALAD 

Remove grapefruit in sections, 
and slice peeled persimmon and 
peeled avocado lengthwise in about 
24 -inch slices. Arrange alternating 
slices of grapefruit, persimmon, and 
avocado, and serve with tart French 
dressing made with grapefruit juice. 

AVOCADO AND SHRIMP 
SALAD 

1 can of shrimp (cleaned) 
1 celery heart, cut fine 
1 avocado, diced 

Mix the ingredients above with 
French dressing and serve in a let- 



tuce cup, as a first course or appe- 
tizer salad. 

AVOCADOS STUFFED WITH 
CRABMEAT 

Pit and peel avocados, preparing 
as many halves as there are persons 
to be served. Pick over and flake 
either fresh or canned crabmeat, and 
mix with Thousand Island dressing 
made by blending mayonnaise and 
chili sauce in equal parts. Place 
each avocado half on a lettuce leaf 
on a salad plate, and fill centers 
heaping up with crabmeat. This is 
delicious served as a main dish for 
a luncheon, chilled, on a plate with 
creamed new potatoes, and accom- 
panied by hot rolls. 

AVOCADO-PINEAPPLE SALAD 

Shred a head of lettuce and place 
on the salad plates. Arrange a slice 
of pineapple with cottage cheese, 
mayonnaise, and dash of paprika on 
one side, and place fan of avocado 
slices on the other. 



AVOCADO SURPRISE 

Peel carefully a firm, ripe avo- 
cado. Cut in halves lengthwise, and 
remove the seed, being careful not 
to crush the flesh of the fruit. Fill 
the cavity in each half with any soft 
cheese (cottage, Neufchatel, or pi- 
mento) mixed with finely chopped 
nuts, ripe olives, and chopped 
chives, using your own discretion as 
to quantities. (Two ounces of 
cheese, 3 nut kernels, 2 ripe olives, 
and 1 tablespoonful of chives will 
suffice for 1 avocado.) Put the 
halves together, wrap with wax 
paper to hold in place, and chill. 
When ready to serve, cut in thick 
crosswise slices and serve on lettuce 
with French dressing. 



Avocados 



49 



CHRISTMAS SALAD 

(Avocado pear and red apple) 
Wash, pare, and cut apples into 
eighths. Simmer in cinnamon candy 
syrup until they absorb the pink 
color and are tender but not mushy. 
Cool and place in refrigerator to 
chill. Chill the avocado pear thor- 
oughly, too. To serve, place alter- 
nate wedges of apple and peeled 
avocado on a nest of lettuce leaves 
and pass French dressing with the 
salad. (To make the cinnamon 
syrup, boil together 2y 2 cupfuls of 
water, 1 cupful of sugar, and l /4 
pound of red cinnamon candies.) 

CALAVO TREASURE-CHEST 

Cut a medium-sized Calavo in 
half. Carefully scoop the Calavo 
out of one of the halves, leaving a 
shell which can be filled with a vege- 
table, meat, or fish salad. We sug- 
gest chicken, tuna, or the like. Every 
housewife will make her own com- 
binations. Now peel the other half 
of the Calavo, using a fluted knife, 
if possible. Use the peeled half for 
a cover to the filled treasure chest. 
Place on a lettuce leaf or a bed of 
very finely shredded snowy cabbage. 
Or to make a salad plate, garnish 
with potato salad. Cross strips of 
red pimiento over the top as -a gar- 
nish for your treasure chest. This 
meal in itself can be served for a 
complete luncheon with a light des- 
sert. 

AVOCADO-TOMATO-CRAB 
SALAD 

Choose small tomatoes, one for 
each person. Remove the skin and 
with a sharp knife scoop out the 
center. Chill in a well-seasoned 
French dressing for an hour. Drain 
and fill with equal parts of finely- 
diced avocado and crab flakes gen- 
erously sprinkled with lemon juice. 



STUFFED AVOCADOS 

Cut avocados in halves and re- 
move the meat from them with a 
ball cutter, leaving the skins whole. 
To 1 cupful of avocado balls add 1 
cupful of pineapple tidbits, 1 cupful 
of orange sections, and 1 cupful of 
grapes, from which the seeds have 
been removed. Marinate with a lit- 
tle French dressing made with 
lemon juice rather than vinegar. 
Fill the avocado shells with the fruit 
mixture and garnish with fresh 
mint. Serve with crisp leaves of 
lettuce. 



CALAVO CREAM DRESSING 

This pale-green dressing is deli- 
cious for fruit salads, and is just as 
attractive and good as a topping for 
open pies, peaches, baked apples, 
and various other desserts. Beat 1 
cupful of whipping cream, and fold 
in l / 2 cupful of powdered sugar, a 
dash of salt, and 24 cupful of sieved 
Calavo. If desired, a drop or two 
of green vegetable coloring may be 
added, but do not make the cream 
too green. 



CALAVONNAISE 

1 medium-sized Calavo, or 1 cup- 
ful of sieved Calavo 

1 egg yolk 

Y$ teaspoonful of dry mustard 

y^. teaspoonful of salt 

\y 2 to2 tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice 

Add seasonings and lemon juice 
to well-beaten yolk, combine with 
sieved Calavo, and beat well. This 
dressing will keep safely for two 
days in the refrigerator. Calavon- 
naise is only one-third as fattening 
as mayonnaise, tablespoon for table- 
spoon. Serve with fruits or vege- 
tables, or on salad greens. 



50 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



AVOCADO DRESSING 

When an avocado is too ripe to 
cut neatly, rub a bowl with a cut 
clove of garlic, mash the avocado in 
the bowl with a fork, mix with an 
equal amount of mayonnaise, and 
serve generously on head lettuce cut 
in quarters. Or use as a sandwich 
filling. 

AVOCADO MOUSSE (SALAD) 

This is a very rich salad, and 
should therefore be the main feature 
of a luncheon or supper, rather than 
a "side issue." It is beautiful when 
molded in a ring mold, and served 
turned out on a large chop plate, 
garnished with long strips of avo- 
cado and the center filled with a 
salad of fresh fruits. To make it, 
first soak for 5 minutes or longer 

1 y 2 tablespoonf uls of granulated 

gelatine in 
6 tablespoonf uls of cold water 

Set the cup in a pan of hot water, 
and stir until the gelatine is dis- 
solved. Keep it warm, while you 
mash through a sieve 

2 large or 3 small, very soft 

avocados, peeled 

Add to these at once 

3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
1 teaspoonful of salt 

A generous dash of cayenne 

1 tablespoonful of Worcestershire 

sauce 

%to l /3 cupful of mayonnaise 
l / 2 cupful of cream 

Cool the liquid gelatine slightly 
(do not let it congeal, however) and 
add to the mixture above, mixing 
well. Lastly fold in \y 2 cupfuls of 
cream, whipped, and pour into a 
mold which has been rinsed with 
cold water. Chill until firm. If a 
ring mold is used, any interesting 
combination of fresh fruits, as 
grapefruit and pineapple, may be 



used, or avocado cut in cubes or 
balls may be mixed with grapefruit 
for the center. Long strips of avo- 
cado and pimiento make a good 
decoration for the outside of the 
ring, with, of course, crisp hearts of 
lettuce also. Pass French dressing 
separately. 

CREAMED CRAB BAKED IN 
AVOCADO SHELLS 

A most interesting and unusual 
dish is this. First prepare very well- 
seasoned creamed crab, shrimp, or 
other sea food. About 15 minutes 
before serving time, fill the cavity of 
unpeeled avocado halves with the 
creamed food, cover with buttered 
crumbs, and put into a hot oven 
(425) to brown the tops lightly. 
The avocado will not be cooked, 
merely heated through. Delicious 
and beautiful, served with a green 
salad and crusty hot rolls. 

AVOCADO NOVEL 

Halve and peel the fruit and re- 
move the seed; or peel, then cut 
thick circles around the pit, and re- 
move carefully. Dip the pieces in 
beaten egg and then in fine cracker 
crumbs. Drop into very hot butter 
or cooking fat and brown lightly on 
either side. Serve while hot to en- 
joy the full flavor. 

SCRAMBLED ECCS WITH 
AVOCADO 

Peel and dice 1 medium-sized ripe 
avocado. In a frying pan heat a lit- 
tle butter or bacon fat. Break 2 or 
3 eggs into a bowl, beat slightly with 
a fork, add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of 
milk or evaporated milk, and salt 
and pepper. Pour into the hot fat, 
and scramble as usual ; add the diced 
avocado and toss together lightly. 
Serve as a main dish for luncheon. 



Berries 



51 



AVOCADO SOUFFLE 

Put the meat of 1 ripe avocado 
through a sieve. Beat the whites of 
3 eggs very stiff ; add >^ cupful of 
sugar and the avocado pulp, and mix 
thoroughly. Put into a lightly but- 
tered baking dish, and bake in a 
moderate oven (350), preferably 
setting the baking dish in a shallow 
pan of boiling water, for about 25 
minutes, or until firm. This is a per- 
fectly gorgeous dish when baked in 
individual glass custard cups. A few 
slices of ripe olives or a sprinkle of 
grated egg yolk can be added before 
serving, to give a more festive 
touch. Also, if wished, a few drops 
of lemon juice may be added to the 
mixture before baking. Serve at 
once, as an entree. 

CALAVO MOUSSE 

(Dessert) 
1 Calavo 

YZ pint of whipping cream 
4 tablespoonfuls of maple syrup 
l /3 cupful of almonds or other nuts 
% teaspoonful of salt 

Mince Calavo fine and put on ice 
until cream is whipped. Sweeten 
cream with syrup. Fold in minced 
Calavo and nuts. Place freezing 
tray in refrigerator or pack in salted 
ice for about an hour before serving 
in sherbet cups. Sufficient for six or 
eight persons. 

MOLDED AVOCADO SALAD 

1 package of lime-flavored gelatine 
1 No. 2 can of grapefruit 
1 avocado, diced 

Drain juice from the grapefruit, 
and add water to make 2 cupfuls. 
Heat almost to boiling, pour over 
the gelatine, and stir until dissolved. 
Cool. When partially congealed 
(like heavy syrup) fold in the 
grapefruit and avocado, and chill. 
Serve with mayonnaise. 



BERRIES 

No special instructions are needed 
for making use of Western berries, 
with the exception of those dis- 
cussed below, which are either of 
Western origin or are different from 
their Eastern relatives, and are more 
widely used here in the West than 
elsewhere in the country. Of the 
common berries, some are available 
at reasonable prices for a much 
longer period here in the West than 
in the Middle West or East. Straw- 
berries, for example, are available in 
San Francisco markets from April 
to November. Others are blackber- 
ries, blueberries, cranberries, cur- 
rants, dewberries, gooseberries, rasp- 
berries, huckleberries, loganberries, 
mulberries, and youngberries. 

Of raspberries, the red variety is 
the only one available in California 
markets ; in the Northwest, both red 
and black are to be had.. 

Remember that, generally speak- 
ing, one berry may be substituted 
for another in the following recipes. 
Don't be afraid to use your own 
judgment in making changes, adding 
or subtracting sugar as your taste 
dictates. 

Theoretically, berries to be at their 
best should never be washed; how- 
ever, if they are not gathered in one's 
own garden, they need thorough 
cleansing. Because berries crush 
easily, they should be washed care- 
fully. Place berries in a colander 
or large strainer and lower into a 
bowl of fresh water, then drain. If 
necessary this can be repeated sev- 
eral times. Running water from the 
faucet over the berries bruises and 
mashes the tender fruit. Strawber- 
ries should be hulled after they have 
been washed and drained in order 
to retain all of their juice. 

Fresh berry pie is delightful al- 
ways. In spite of all precautions 



52 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



taken to keep the juice from boiling 
over and burning on the floor of the 
oven, it usually does so anyway, but 
the pie is well worth it. About the 
most satisfactory way of preventing 
this is to add 1^ to 2y 2 tablespoon- 
f uls of quick-cooking tapioca to the 
fruit, and sugar (about \y\ cup f uls 
of sugar to 3*/2 cupfuls of fruit), 
and let stand 15 minutes while pre- 
paring the pastry. This will fill a 
9-inch pie. 

(See also chapter on Canning, 
Preserving, and Pickling.) 

GERMAN BERRY CAKE 

1 H cupfuls of flour 

Y>2. cupful of sugar 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

l /4 teaspoonful of salt 

1 egg, broken into measuring cup 
Milk to fill cup 

2 tablespoonf uls of salad oil or 

melted shortening 
1 cupful or more of berries 
1 cupful of sugar 

Sift together the dry ingredients 
twice. Break the egg into the meas- 
uring cup, beat slightly, then fill the 
cup with milk. Add to the dry in- 
gredients with the shortening and 
mix well. Put into an oiled shallow 
cake pan, and cover with a layer of 
loganberries or blackberries, or the 
two combined, and sprinkle 1 cupful 
of sugar over the top. Bake slowly 
(at 375) until a golden brown. 
This may be served hot or cold, with 
whipped cream, hard sauce, or plain. 



drain and chill. Prepare and wash 
the berries, drain, spread on a shal- 
low dish, and sprinkle with the pow- 
dered sugar. Place in the refrig- 
erator for an hour. Just before 
serving mix lightly the rice, whipped 
cream, sugar, and the berries, which 
have been drained free from juice. 
Pile lightly in sherbet glasses, and 
garnish with whipped cream and 
whole berries. Strawberries and 
raspberries are delicious in this. 

BERRY COBBLER 

2 cupfuls of flour 

l /4 cupful of sugar 

4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

y 2 teaspoonful of salt 

Yz cupful of shortening 

YZ cupful of milk 

legg 

1 pint of berries (canned or fresh 

cooked, sweetened to taste) 

2 tablespoonf uls of flour 

Sift flour once before measuring, 
then mix and sift first four ingredi- 
ents together. Cut in the shortening 
with a pastry flaker or two knives ; 
beat the egg well, add the milk, and 
stir lightly into the dry ingredients. 
Mix a little of the berry juice with 
the 2 tablespoonf uls of flour, then 
stir it into the berries. Put them 
into a pudding dish, pour, or rather 
drop, the batter over the berries, 
and bake in a hot oven (400) for 
about 30 minutes. The syrup will 
boil up between the dough. This 
recipe serves eight. 



BERRY RICE PARFAIT 

y^ cupful of raw rice, cooked 

1 box of berries (any kind desired) 

y-a. cupful of powdered sugar 

Yz cupful of sugar 

1 cupful of whipped cream 

Wash the rice, cook rapidly in 
boiling water until tender, then 



BLACKBERRY CRUMB 
PUDDING 

Into a buttered casserole or deep 
glass baking-dish place alternate lay- 
ers of blackberries, or other tart 
berries, and bread crumbs, dotting 
the crumbs with butter and sprink- 
ling the berries with sugar as each 



Cranberries 



53 



layer is added. The top layer should 
be crumbs, sprinkled with sugar and 
dotted with butter. Cover and bake 
in a moderate oven (375) until 
berries are well cooked, then un- 
cover, let brown, and serve warm 
with hard sauce or whipped cream. 



CRANBERRIES 

Cranberries a Western fruit ? Yes, 
indeed. The low-lying moist bogs 
and marshes of western Washington 
and Oregon are producing this tart 
fruit in commercial quantities. 

Cranberries are so good-tasting 
that few persons inquire into their 
actual value as food. It is interest- 
ing to note that the cranberry is 
mildly laxative, that its iodine con- 
tent approaches that of some sea 
foods, that it has a small amount of 
vitamin A, and that its vitamin C 
content is relatively high. Concern- 
ing the last-mentioned factor, whole- 
cranberry sauce as usually prepared 
contains about 80 per cent of the 
original vitamin C content, whereas 
the strained sauce, as usually pre- 
pared, retains less than 10 per cent. 
The way to avoid much of this great 
vitamin loss is simple: cool the 
cooked cranberries before putting 
them through the strainer, thus 
largely preventing oxidation of vita- 
min C. 

Authorities seem to agree that, 
though cranberries leave an acid 
residue after digestion, ordinary 
servings of the fruit do not appre- 
ciably affect the alkali reserve of the 
body, and so can be eaten without 
concern. There is no doubt at all as 
to their being a most appetizing ac- 
companiment to many meats pork 
and lamb as well as the usual turkey 
and chicken. 

One quart of cranberries equals 
one pound. 



CRANBERRY FRUIT 
GARNISHES 

Canned pears and canned peaches, 
with their centers filled with cran- 
berry jelly, may be served either as 
accessories to the meat course or as 
a salad. Crisp hearts of lettuce may 
be filled likewise, and used to border 
a meat platter. 



CRANBERRY GELATINE IN 
ORANGE SHELLS 

Boil 2 cupfuls of cranberries in 
1 cupful of water until they burst 
their skins ; let cool, then put through 
a strainer. Sweeten to taste, using 
about 1 cupful of sugar. Bring to a 
boil, stirring constantly. When the 
sugar is dissolved remove from the 
stove and add J^ tablespoon ful of 
granulated gelatine which has been 
softened in ^4 cupful of cold water. 
Cool and pour into orange shells 
(oranges cut in half and pulp re- 
moved). Chill thoroughly. Just be- 
fore serving, cut each shell in half 
and garnish a meat platter with these 
jelly-filled orange quarters. 



TEN-MINUTE CRANBERRY 
SAUCE 

(Stewed Cranberries) 

\ l /2 to 2 cupfuls of sugar 
2 cupfuls of water 
1 pound or quart (4 cupfuls) of 
cranberries 

Boil sugar and water together 5 
minutes ; add cranberries and boil 
without stirring (5 minutes is usu- 
ally sufficient) until all the skins pop 
open. Remove from the fire when 
the popping stops, and allow the 
sauce to remain in vessel undis- 
turbed until cool. Easy and good. 



54 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



CRANBERRY JUICE COCKTAIL GROUND CRANBERRY SAUCE 



The appetizing flavor of cranber- 
ries makes cranberry juice cocktail 
a superb drink. You can drink it 
"straight." You can mix it with 
ginger ale or other beverages. You 
can use it as a base for fruit punches 
and fruit cups. It is economical and 
easy to make. 

4 cupfuls of cranberries 

4 cupfuls of water 

yz cupful of granulated sugar 

Cook cranberries and water until 
all the skins pop open (about 5 min- 
utes). Strain through cheesecloth. 
Bring the juice to boiling point, add 
sugar, and boil for 2 minutes. Serve 
cold. For future use pour hot into 
sterilized bottles, well-corked and 
sealed. 



JELLIED CRANBERRY SAUCE 

4 cupfuls of cranberries 

2 cupfuls of water 

2 cupfuls of granulated sugar 

Boil cranberries with water until 
berries stop popping. Cool, then 
strain through fine sieve ; add sugar 
and stir; then boil rapidly for 8 to 
10 minutes or until a drop jells on 
a cold plate. Turn at once into a 
wet mold, and cool. 



CRANBERRY ORANGE RELISH 

1 pound of cranberries 

1 to \y 2 oranges 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

Put raw cranberries through meat 
grinder. Discard orange seeds and 
white core, and put rind and pulp 
through grinder. Mix with sugar 
and berries, and let stand a few 
hours before serving. For future 
use pour into glasses, and cover with 
paraffin. This is particularly good 
with all meats, hot or cold. 



1 pound of cranberries 

1 cupful of water 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

Grind the berries with coarse 
blade in grinder ; add water and boil 
5 minutes, then add sugar and boil 
3 minutes more. Pour into glasses 
and seal for future use. 

CRANBERRY HORSERADISH 
RELISH 

Mix chopped raw cranberries with 
grated horseradish in proportions of 
2 /z cranberries to Yz horseradish. 
Serve with cold meats. 



CRANBERRY SHERBET 

4 cupfuls of cranberries 

2]/2 cupfuls of water 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

Juice of 2 lemons 

1 teaspoonful of gelatine dissolved 

in 
1/2. cupful of cold water 

Cook cranberries with water until 
the berries stop popping ; strain, add 
sugar, and cook until dissolved. Add 
gelatine ; cool ; stir in strained lemon 
juice. Pour into tray of mechanical 
refrigerator, stirring occasionally. 
Allow 2 or 3 hours. This makes six 
portions. If the gelatine is omitted 
this becomes cranberry ice, which is 
not so smooth a texture. Sherbet 
does not require as much stirring. 



CRYSTALLIZED CRANBERRY 
RELISH 

4 cupfuls of cranberries 

4 cupfuls of sugar 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar 

Pick over and wash the cranber- 
ries; drain, put into a large sauce- 
pan with the sugar and vinegar, and 



Huckleberries 



55 



heat, stirring until the sugar is 
melted and the mixture boils. Boil 
gently, stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent burning, for exactly 10 minutes, 
then turn into a bowl. Serve cold, 
with meats or salads. This is a 
delicious and different thick sweet 
relish, and keeps well. 



HUCKLEBERRIES 

Western huckleberries differ ma- 
terially from Eastern ones. They 
are much larger and sweeter, and 
have fewer seeds. 

The huckleberry is not black, nor 
always an extremely dark blue fruit. 
It is often a deep, rich red, or an 
azure blue. Generally speaking, the 
darker and larger the berry the bet- 
ter it is, better in flavor and easier 
to handle. When the berries are 
small it is quite a task to remove the 
tiny stems which cling to them, but 
even under that time-absorbing con- 
dition the result warrants the effort. 

The huckleberry grows on low 
bushes having a smooth green leaf 
and smooth branches which makes 
picking them a pastime rather than 
an ordeal. Often the bushes bear so 
heavily that it is possible literally to 
strip the branches while the fruit 
drops with amazing steadiness into 
the waiting container. The bushes 
which are partly shaded usually bear 
the larger berries, but it is a rare de- 
light to sit in the warm sun on pine- 
needle-strewn ground and pick fruit 
of any size. The berries grow as 
large as a person's thumbnail. 

Huckleberries ripen through July 
and August and are on the market 
until almost Christmas time, giving 
a long season in which to enjoy 
them. There are none produced in 
large quantities in California, but 
they grow quite plentifully on the 
Oregon and Washington coasts and 



are found in large numbers in east- 
ern Washington and Idaho. In gar- 
dens of the Northwest the huckle- 
berry is used rather extensively as 
an ornamental shrub. 



HUCKLEBERRY GRIDDLE 
CAKES 

2 cupfuls of flour 

1 teaspoon ful of salt 

1 teaspoonf ul of combination type 
baking powder, or 1 ^ tea- 
spoonfuls of other baking 
powder 

1 egg 

\y 2 cupfuls of sour milk 

Y^ teaspoonful of soda 

1 tablespoonful of melted butter 

1 cupful of huckleberries, washed 
and drained 

Sift the flour, salt, and baking 
powder together. Beat the egg ; add 
the soda to the sour milk. Combine 
the dry ingredients with the egg and 
milk and add the melted butter and 
berries. Bake on an oiled griddle and 
serve with syrup or thick huckle- 
berry sauce. These make a whole 
meal in camp. 



HUCKLEBERRY MUFFINS 

1 cupful of huckleberries sprinkled 

with 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

2 cupfuls of flour 

3 teaspoonf uls of baking powder 
Y^ teaspoonful of salt 

4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

4 tablespoonfuls of shortening 

1 cupful of milk 

2 eggs, well beaten 

The fruit must be washed, drained, 
and sprinkled with the 3 tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar. Sift the dry ingredi- 
ents; add melted shortening, milk, 
and eggs, well beaten. The berries 
should be folded in at the last. Fill 



56 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



greased muffin tins half full and 
bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven 
(375). 

Another delightful and rather un- 
usual way to use huckleberries is 
for shortcake. This is especially 
nice if the shortcake is baked in 
individual portions the size of large 
biscuits. 



HUCKLEBERRY ORANGE 
PUDDING 

1 pint of cooked huckleberries 
1 tablespoonful of butter 
YZ cupful of brown sugar 
Pinch of salt 

Drain the huckleberries, and cook 
with the butter and brown sugar for 
10 minutes. Add a little of the 
drained juice if the berries get too 
thick. Keep warm until used. 

Pudding Batter 

l /4 cupful of shortening 

y 2 cupful of sugar 

legg 

Yt, cupful of orange juice 

1 cupful of flour 

]/4 teaspoonful of salt 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder 

1 teaspoonful of grated orange peel 

2 drops of almond extract 

Cream the shortening and sugar 
together, then add the beaten egg. 
Sift together the flour, salt, and 
baking powder, and add to this mix- 
ture the grated orange peel. Add the 
flour to the first mixture, alternating 
with the orange juice. Mix well. 
The consistency will be fairly dry. 
Put the huckleberry mixture into a 
buttered baking dish and cover with 
the cake batter. Bake in a moderate 
oven (350) for 45 minutes, or until 
the cake is golden brown. Serve hot 
with whipped cream, flavored with 
a few drops of almond extract. 
Serves six. 



LOGANBERRIES 

The loganberry, originated by 
Judge J. H. Logan, of Santa Cruz, 
in 1881, is one of the popular and 
characteristic fruits of the West 
Coast states, being grown commer- 
cially throughout the territory. The 
berry is large, purplish-red in color, 
and has a tart flavor that endears it 
to most persons. In the form of pie 
or cobbler, or in jelly, jam, or juice, 
the loganberry is justly a favorite. 
Be sure to use plenty of sugar with 
this tart berry. 

Originally supposed to be a cross 
between the blackberry and the red 
raspberry, horticultural authorities 
now state their belief that the logan- 
berry is a red-fruited sport of the 
Western dewberry. 

A near relative of the loganberry 
is the Phenomenal, a less sharply 
acid, exceedingly large crimson berry 
which comes on the market about a 
week later than the loganberry. It 
originated with Luther Burbank, of 
Santa Rosa, and is supposed to be a 
cross between the California dew- 
berry and the red raspberry. 

LOGANBERRY JELLY SAUCE 

1 glass of loganberry jelly 

1 tablespoonful of orange juice 

1 teaspoonful of grated orange rind 

Melt the jelly in the top of a 
double boiler. Add the orange juice 
and rind and beat well. Let cool to 
serve with custard desserts, or serve 
hot with steamed puddings. 

LOGAN-GINGER PUNCH 

2 cupf uls of loganberry juice 
Juice of 4 lemons 

l /2 cupful of sugar 
1 quart of ginger ale 

Mix the fruit juices and sugar. 
Chill and let the sugar dissolve. Just 
before serving add chilled ginger ale. 
This is pretty served in tall glasses. 



Strawberries 



57 



LOGANBERRY SAUCE FOR 
DESSERTS 

1 cupful of sugar 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 tablespoonful of cornstarch 

y 2 cupful of water 

y 2 cupful of loganberry juice 

Cream the sugar and the butter, 
and add the cornstarch mixed with 
the cold water. Boil, stirring, for 5 
minutes. Add the berry juice and 
cook for 5 minutes longer, this time 
over hot water. Serve with custards, 
cottage pudding, or bread puddings. 

LOGANBERRY PUNCH 

(Serves 25) 
\y 2 cupfuls of water 
\y 2 cupfuls of sugar 

1 quart of sweetened loganberry 

juice 
6 lemons, juice and a little grated 

rind 
6 oranges, juice only 

2 cupfuls of black tea infusion 

(made as for serving hot) 
2 cupfuls of shredded pineapple 

(juice and pulp) 
2 quarts of chilled or charged 

water, and chipped ice 

Boil the sugar and water for 10 
minutes. Cool and add the fruit 
juices and tea. Let stand one hour. 
Add the chilled water and ice, and 
serve. 

LOGANBERRY MUFFINS 

l /4 cupful of butter 

y 2 cupful of sugar 

1 egg, white and yolk beaten sep- 
arately 

\y 2 cupfuls of cake flour 

2 l / 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

34 teaspoonful of salt 

Ys cupful of milk 

y 2 cupful of canned loganberries 
(well drained) 

Cream butter and sugar together 
and beat in egg yolk. Sift all dry 
ingredients together and add alter- 



nately with milk to butter mixture. 
Add loganberries and fold in egg 
white. Bake in tiny muffin pans at 
375 degrees. Serve hot with butter. 
Serves six. 

MULBERRY 

The Persian mulberry is a highly 
favored fruit among those West- 
erners who have become acquainted 
with it. The large, luscious fruit, 
which ripens from the last of May 
until October, makes excellent pie. 
Combined with rhubarb it makes a 
good dessert sauce. 

STRAWBERRIES 

Though strawberries are a na- 
tional rather than a Western fa- 
vorite, nevertheless a few special 
recipes that were originated here in 
the West deserve to be included in 
this collection of good things to eat. 

STRAWBERRIES, WESTERN 
STYLE 

To serve at table, pile lovely red 
berries in a glass dish lined with 
grape leaves, and sprinkle lightly 
with lemon juice and powdered 
sugar, and, if you like, shaved al- 
monds also.. This is a pleasant 
change from berries with cream, or 
strawberry shortcake, good as those 
are. 



STRAWBERRIES IN SPONGE 
CAKE RING 

Hollow out the center of a round 
sponge cake, and fill with freshly 
sugared, beautiful strawberries, rasp- 
berries, or sliced peaches. Cover 
with whipped cream or vanilla ice 
cream, and serve at once, garnishing 
the outside of the loaf with mounds 
of pretty berries. 



58 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



RING MOLD SHORTCAKE 

Drop soft biscuit dough into a 
well-buttered ring mold, and bake as 
usual. Turn out, fill center with 
sweetened berries, and serve at once, 
at the table. 



BEST-OF-ALL STRAWBERRY 
SHORTCAKE 

Make your regular baking-pow- 
der biscuit recipe, filling two round 
cake tins (buttered) with the soft 
dough. Bake just before dinner, 
butter the top of each cake lightly 
when done, and leave in the oven 
with the door open. The cakes will 
then be warm and tender and not 
cold and hard when ready to serve. 
Have ready also a sauce made by 
creaming together ^2 cupful of but- 
ter and 1 cupful of powdered sugar, 
and adding enough crushed straw- 
berries to thin the sauce and color 
it. It should be thin enough to pour. 
When ready to serve the dessert 
put one cake on a large, pretty plate, 
cover it with berries which have 
been sweetened with powdered 
sugar, and put on the other layer. 
Cover this also with berries and 
pour the sauce over all. Serve at 
the table, cutting as you would a 
cake, and putting a few extra ber- 
ries beside each piece. This makes 
a very pretty dessert and a filling 
one, so the rest of the meal should 
be light. 

STRAWBERRY MOUSSE 

Hull, wash, and drain 1 box of 
fresh berries. Crush with 24 cupful 
of sugar. Add 1 tablespoonful of 
lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and 
fold in 1 cupful of cream, whipped 
stiff. Put into a tray in electric re- 
frigerator for about 2 hours, stirring 
once, or if freezer is used pack in 



two parts of ice to one part of 
coarse salt and let stand 4 hours, 
stirring and repacking once. 

ROD GROD 

(Serves 4) 

This Danish recipe is a delightful 
one, in spite of its queer name, 
which literally means "red mush" ! 
Wash and stem 1 basket of straw- 
berries and put on to boil with 2 
cupfuls of water. When boiled 
until juice is extracted, put through 
a strainer and sweeten to taste. 
Clean another basket of strawberries 
(or a glass of strawberry preserves 
may be used) and cook in the 
strained juice until tender. Adding 
y*. teaspoonful of vanilla in the boil- 
ing juice will give an excellent fla- 
vor. Stir 2 tablespoon fuls of potato 
flour into some of the juice in a 
bowl, return all to the hot juice, and 
thicken the whole mixture as de- 
sired. Cool slightly and pour into 
sherbets or into one large bowl. 
Sprinkle with sugar on top to pre- 
vent forming of a crust. Eat warm 
or cold with cream or whipped 
cream. It is interesting to add finely 
chopped almonds to the mixture, for 
variety. Any kind of berries, or 
even rhubarb, may be used in place 
of strawberries. 



YOUNCBERRIES 

The Youngberry, a cross between 
the Phenomenal berry (see Logan- 
berry) and one type of dewberry, is 
attaining amazing popularity in Cali- 
fornia. The very large berries, deep 
wine color to black, have an ex- 
quisite flavor suggesting a combina- 
tion of raspberry, blackberry, and 
dewberry, with a dash of loganberry 
for "zip" to contrast with their su- 
perior sweetness. The seeds are few 



Cherries 



59 



and soft, and the cores also are 
tender. For eating fresh, for pies, 
and for jams and jellies, the fruit is 
certainly to be recommended. The 
Youngberry is an excellent choice 
for home planting, for the berries 
are so easily picked, and ripen 
through a long season. 

CHERRIES 

The Easterner who moves to the 
West Coast has to learn about cher- 
ries all over again, for Western 
cherries are decidedly different from 
those grown elsewhere. 

East of the Rockies, 90 per cent 
of the cherries are of the sour va- 
riety largely used for canning, while 
sweet varieties predominate on the 



West Coast. Climate is an impor- 
tant factor in growing cherries. 
California and Oregon are among 
the seven states which lead in cherry 
production nationally. 

In Western markets, cherries are 
always obtainable by the pound, in 
bulk ; for with all of the packing and 
shipping, most of the crop remains 
at home, to be made use of fresh or 
to be canned within a few miles of 
the home orchards. And, too, thou- 
sands of barrels are brined right in 
the orchards, later to appear as can- 
died or maraschino fruit (see chap- 
ter on Canning, Preserving, and 
Pickling for recipe). 

The sweet red or black Western 
cherries are so good eaten fresh, out 
of hand, that it scarcely seems nec- 



PRINCIPAL VARIETIES OF WESTERN CHERRIES 



NAME 



Bing 



Black Re- 
publican . . 



CHARACTERISTICS 

(Color, Size, Texture, Flavor, KEEPING 

Quality) QUALITY 

Dark red, almost black. Very 
large, roundish, heart- 
shaped. Firm and meaty. 
Sweet. 

Black. Very large, round- 
ish. Firm. Sweet. Fair. Fair 



USES 



Dessert Culinary 



Excellent Excellent Excellent 
Good Good 



Kentish 



Lambert 



May Duke . . . 
Montmorency, 



Napoleon . . . 
(Royal Ann) 



Shining scarlet, becoming 
darker when fully ripe. 
Medium. Tender and juicy. 
Acid and faintly bitter. 
Fair. Poor 

.Dark amber to rich magenta. 
Large to very large, ob- 
tusely heart-shaped. Firm 
and juicy. Sweet, rich, 
and good. Good 

. Dark red. Large, roundish 
oblate. Tender and juicy. 
Sub-acid. Good. 



Good 



Fair 



Good 



Good 



Excellent 



Excellent 



Excellent 



Light red to dark red. Me- 
dium to large. Juicy. Sour. 
Good. 

Handsomely mottled, red 
and yellow. Large. Firm 
and meaty. Sweet. Excel- 
lent. 



Excellent Poor to good Excellent 



Excellent Excellent Excellent 



60 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



essary to do anything else with 
them. They are, however, equally 
delicious served in the following 
ways, as well as in jams and pre- 
serves (see Index). 

CHERRY AND NUT 
UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE 

Part I 

Ys cupful of butter 
y 2 cupful of sugar 

1 cupful of chopped pecans 

2 cupfuls of pitted cherries 

(canned or fresh cooked), 
drained (save juice for sauce) 

Part II 

2 /3 cupful of butter 
\y 2 cupfuls of sugar 

2 eggs 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla 
2 /3 cupful of milk 
2y 2 cupfuls of flour 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

Part I: Heat the y 3 cupful of 
butter in a heavy frying pan, sprinkle 
with the sugar, nuts, and cherries, 
and set aside while mixing the cake 
batter. 

Part II : Cream the butter, and 
add the sugar gradually, creaming 
together. Add the eggs, one at a 
time, and the vanilla, beating thor- 
oughly, then add alternately the milk 
and the flour sifted with the baking 
powder. Pour this batter over the 
mixture in the skillet, and bake in 
a moderately slow oven (350) 45 
to 60 minutes. Turn out immediately 
on a large plate, and while it is cool- 
ing make a sauce as follows : 

Sauce for Upside-Down Loaf 

\Vz cupfuls of cherry juice 
1 tablespoon ful of cornstarch 
y$ cupful of sugar 
2 /$ cupful of whipping cream 
6 maraschino cherries or 24 ruby- 
ettes for garnishing 

Put 1 cupful of cherry juice in a 
sauce pan with the sugar and bring 



to boiling, then thicken with the 
cornstarch which has been dissolved 
in the remaining juice. Boil 5 min- 
utes, stirring, then cool. Shortly be- 
fore serving, whip the cream, add 
the cherry syrup, and spread on the 
cake. Garnish with the rubyettes or 
the maraschino cherries, quartered. 
This will serve eight persons gen- 
erously. 

CHERRY PIE 

1 quart of seeded pie cherries 

(Kentish or Montmorency) 

2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
\% cupfuls of sugar 

% teaspoonful of salt 
1 tablespoonful of butter 

Mix the cornstarch with the sugar 
and salt. Heat with the cherries 
until the mixture thickens and the 
juice is transparent. (A double boiler 
is good for this.) Line a pie-pan 
with uncooked paste and fill with 
the cooked fruit. Place over this a 
well-pricked upper crust, and press 
the crusts together well, so that the 
juice may be kept in. Bake in a hot 
oven (450) for 15 minutes, then 
reduce the heat to 400 degrees and 
bake for 30 minutes more. 

BLACK CHERRY CAKE 

3 eggs 

1 cupful of sugar 
\Y^ cupfuls of flour 
Pinch of salt 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
2 tablespoonfuls of water 

y-2. teaspoonful of vanilla 

1 cupful of black cherries, stoned 

Cream the eggs and sugar, and 
add the flour, salt, and baking pow- 
der sifted together; add the water 
and vanilla, and beat well to mix. 
Pour batter into two oiled layer- 
cake tins, and drop the cherries into 
the batter one at a time, distributing 
them evenly over the cakes. Bake 



Citrus Fruits 



61 



in a moderate oven (375) about 
25 minutes, or until done. Cut in 
wedges and serve fresh, with or 
without whipped cream. 



FAVORITE CHERRY ROLLS 

2 cupfuls of flour 
4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
2 tablespoonf uls of sugar 
Yz teaspoonful of salt 
4 tablespoonfuls of butter 
y$ cupful (or more) of milk 
1 pint of any cherries, seeded, 
drained, and sweetened 

Sift dry ingredients, cut in the 
fat, add the milk all at once and stir 
just enough to mix the dough as for 
biscuits. Turn out on a lightly 
floured board, knead lightly for a 
few seconds, then roll Y^ inch thick. 
Spread dough with melted butter 
and cover with 1 pint of cherries 
which have been seeded, drained, 
and mixed with 1 cupful of sugar. 
Roll up tight like a jelly roll, and cut 
in ^4-inch slices. Place slices in a 
shallow pan containing a syrup made 
of 1 cupful of water and J/ cupful 
of sugar. Bake about 20 minutes, 
having the oven hot (425) at first, 
then reducing the heat to 350 after 
the first 5 minutes. Serve with 
cherry sauce, made as follows, or 
with whipped cream. 

Cherry Sauce 

1 cupful of cherry juice 

1 cupful of water 

YZ cupful of sugar 

1 tablespoonful of cornstarch 

Heat the cherry juice and water; 
mix the sugar and cornstarch with 
a small quantity of the liquid, then 
return all to the hot juice and cook, 
stirring, until clear. Pour the sauce 
over the cherry rolls and garnish 
with whole cherries. 



CANTA-CHERRY CUP 



Fill cantaloupe halves with black 
cherries which have been seeded, 
stuffed with filberts, and rolled in 
powdered sugar, for a most attrac- 
tive first course for a summer lunch- 
eon or dinner. 

ALL-WESTERN CHERRY 
SALAD 

2 cupfuls of cherries 

Yi pound of filbert meats 

6 marshmallows 

Y\ cupful of fruit salad dressing 

1 cupful of whipping cream 

1 head of lettuce 

2 medium oranges 

Pit the cherries and insert a fil- 
bert meat in the cavity of each. Ar- 
range the stuffed cherries on crisp 
lettuce leaves with the cut marsh- 
mallows and sections of orange 
sliced thin. Whip the cream and 
fold into the salad dressing. Pile 
lightly on top of each salad. Serve 
with salted wafers or Melba toast. 
Makes eight small servings. 

CHERRY-PEACH DESSERT 

Combine equal amounts of seeded 
sweet cherries and sliced fresh 
peaches, sugar well and allow to 
stand in the refrigerator for at least 
an hour before serving. An ideal 
early summer dessert ! 



CITRUS FRUITS 

Oranges, grapefruit, and lemons, 
to children of the nation at large, 
are interesting yellow or golden 
fruits that come out of a box at the 
grocery shop. To Western children, 
particularly those of Arizona, and 
southern California, and the San 
Joaquin and Sacramento valleys of 
the state, citrus fruits are gorgeous 



62 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



globes of color that follow heavily 
fragrant blossoms on beautiful, dark, 
green, shiny-leaved trees. 

Oranges, lemons, and grapefruit 
are extremely valuable in the diet. 
In addition to their mineral content 
and their high food value, furnish- 
ing quick energy, they are excellent 
sources of vitamin C, which plays 
such an important part in good 
health; and they are highly impor- 
tant for their alkalinizing effects in 
the body. Although they are dis- 
tinctly acid in taste, they have an 
alkaline reaction in the blood which 
offsets the acidity caused by such 
good foods as meat, fish, and eggs. 
It is advisable, therefore, to eat 
plentifully of these fruits and drink 
freely of their juices, either 
"straight," as orange juice or grape- 
fruit juice, or in various "ades" and 
punches made with lemon and the 
other juices as foundations. 

CITRON 

The citron of commerce, as dis- 
tinguished from the citron melon, is 
grown to a small extent in Califor- 
nia. The fruit, which resembles a 
monstrous lemon, has only one use, 
the making of candied rind, and this 
is not done on a sufficiently large 
scale to compete with the imported 
candied citron. The California prod- 
uct is, however, highly acceptable. 

GRAPEFRUIT 

The grapefruit, or pomelo, was 
brought to Europe by sailors who 
are thought to have found it first on 
Mauritius, a small island in the In- 
dian Ocean. Spanish adventurers 
introduced it to America. It is said 
to have received the name "grape- 
fruit" because the fruit grows in 
clusters resembling bunches of 
grapes. 



Although a comparatively new 
fruit to America, grapefruit is really 
more than 4,000 years old. The Chi- 
nese mention it in a book written 
2,000 years before Christ. 

Western markets absorb most of 
the immense harvest of the Califor- 
nia and Arizona groves. The prin- 
cipal variety grown in these states 
is the Marsh Seedless. This variety 
is almost seedless, is of very good 
flavor and abundant juice, and has 
a clean, waxy-textured skin. It 
ripens in California and Arizona 
throughout the twelve months of the 
year, giving that section the distinc- 
tion of being the only part of the 
world that produces a summer- 
ripening grapefruit. 

Like the orange and lemon, the 
grapefruit is an excellent source of 
vitamin C, and a good source of 
vitamin B. It provides quick energy 
in the readily assimilable fruit 
sugar; stimulates appetite and so 
promotes digestion through its pleas- 
ing fruit acids; and helps correct 
acidosis through its mineral salts. 
Its use in reducing diets is justly 
popular. 

The most common breakfast serv- 
ice of grapefruit is merely to cut it 
in halves crosswise. No further at- 
tention is necessary, with Western 
grapefruit, for the flesh is easily 
slipped out of the sections by means 
of a spoon without too great cas- 
ualty to eyesight and clean collars. 
It is nice to remove the center core 
before serving, using kitchen scis- 
sors for the purpose. The practice 
of cutting all the section membranes 
with a rounded knife is nothing 
short of pernicious, in my estima- 
tion ; for unless it is done well and 
completely, the result is that one be- 
comes involved with stringy mem- 
brane that cannot possibly be sev- 
ered with a spoon. Better let well 
enough alone ! 



Grapefruit 



63 



Grapefruit juice has a pleasing 
tang all its own. It is ever so good 
"straight," for breakfast, or mixed 
half-and-half with orange juice or 
grape juice. For afternoon or eve- 
ning refreshment, or for a strictly 
temperate before-dinner cocktail, 
combine chilled grapefruit juice and 
ginger ale in two-to-one proportions. 
It is delicious. 

Grapefruit Serving Ideas 

When serving halved grapefruit 
the core should be removed, leaving 
a small space which affords oppor- 
tunities for any number of changes 
in appearance and flavor. For grape- 
fruit that needs no sugar, this space 
in the center may support a dainty 
small stick of green mint or red 
peppermint candy ; a piece of sweet 
pickled watermelon rind ; half of a 
small preserved fig or spiced pear. 
If the fruit does need sugar, pack 
the space with cube sugar, plain or 
tinted. This makes a lovely dish. 
For "company" occasions, the flow- 
ers made of tinted sugar are love- 
lier. All these must be added at the 
last instant before the guest sees it, 
so that he receives the impression 
of it before the candy melts. 



CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT PEEL 

(2 grapefruit) 

Remove grapefruit peel in quar- 
ters. Cover with water to which 1 
teaspoonful of salt has been added. 
Boil 20 minutes. Drain. Repeat 
process twice, omitting salt. Cut 
with scissors into strips. Cover with 
fresh water and boil until peel is 
tender, 20 to 30 or more minutes 
longer. Drain. Bring 1 cupful of 
sugar and J/ cupful of water to 
boil. Add peel. Boil gently until 
syrup is nearly absorbed. Drain. 
Roll in sugar and store in boxes. 



How to Peel Grapefruit 

You will appreciate the ease of 
peeling grapefruit when you make 
salads, desserts, or cocktails. The 
firm, juice-retaining meat permits 
grapefruit to be peeled like an ap- 
ple. Use a sharp knife, cutting 
away all thin inside membrane. Re- 
move sections by slipping the knife 
blade down beside a partition, and 
turning it ; the section will drop out 
beautifully whole. 

GRAPEFRUIT MACEDOINE 

(Serves 8) 

4 grapefruit 

1 cupful of diced bananas 

Y-2. cupful of dates, cut small 

Y-2. cupful of grapes (or cherries 

or diced pineapple) 
Powdered sugar 

Cut grapefruit in halves, remove 
meat, and make cups of shells. Let 
shells chill on ice. Mix grapefruit 
meat with other fruits, sweetening 
to taste with sugar. Serve very cold. 

GRAPEFRUIT AVOCADO 
CANAPE 

Pare grapefruit, removing all en- 
veloping tissue. Cut in 3/3 -inch 
slices. Allow one slice to a serving. 
Arrange on glass plate and cover 
with avocado whipped to a cream 
with grapefruit juice and a dash of 
mustard and salt. Garnish with 
sliced stuffed olives. Serve very 
cold. 

GRAPEFRUIT AND POME- 
GRANATE CUP 

Put 4 or 5 sections of grapefruit 
(all membrane removed) in glass 
cups and pour over each a table- 
spoonful or two of pomegranate 
juice. Cranberry juice may be used 
similarly. 



64 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



GRAPEFRUIT JUICE DRESSING 

Grapefruit juice alone, or with a 
sprinkling of salt and perhaps pep- 
per, makes an excellent dressing for 
a sliced tomato salad, a lettuce salad, 
and so on, in a reducing menu. 
Grapefruit juice may also be used 
to improve flavor and prevent dis- 
coloration in other fruits used in 
salads. The fruit pieces are dipped 
in the juice or allowed to stand in it. 
Fruits that may be so marinated 
include avocados, bananas, apples, 
pears, and peaches. 



GRAPEFRUIT PIE 

(Serves 6 to 8) 

1 cupful of grapefruit juice 

l /4 cupful of orange juice 

1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

1 cupful of sugar 

Y$ teaspoonf ul of salt 
Y-2. cupful of cold water 

3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 

2 egg yolks 

1 tablespoonful of butter 

1 teaspoonful of grated grapefruit 

rind 

2 egg whites 

4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

Heat fruit juice, sugar, and salt 
in double boiler. Mix water and 
cornstarch. Pour hot juice and 
sugar over the cornstarch and re- 
turn all to double boiler. Stir till 
thickened and cook 10 minutes. Add 
beaten egg yolks and butter. Cook 
1 minute. Remove from fire and 
stir in the grated grapefruit rind. 
Pour into baked pie crust and cover 
with a meringue made of the egg 
whites and 4 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Bake in a slow oven (300) 
for 15 minutes or until meringue 
is delicately browned. For pud- 
ding, bake filling and meringue 
without crust in individual pudding 
dishes. 



KUMQUAT 

The kumquat is a very small, 
decorative citrus fruit, orange in 
color. The entire fruit, rind and all, 
is edible and is used fresh, sliced 
very thin, for salads, or for pre- 
serves and spiced fruit. 

LEMONS 

The lemon, like the tree that pro- 
duces it, is never off duty. The yel- 
low fruit, so acid in flavor yet so 
alkaline in reaction in the body, is 
useful in the preparation of all sorts 
of dishes from first course to last 
to say nothing of their indispensa- 
bility in before-dinner cocktails, to- 
mato juice, or otherwise. Rarely is 
a fruit concoction of any sort com- 
plete without at least a dash of 
lemon juice. This holds true for hot 
and cold drinks, ices and ice creams, 
salads, and preserves. Not merely 
fruit combinations but dozens of 
hearty dishes are decidedly im- 
proved by the addition of lemon. 
Fish positively demands its garnish 
of lemon slices or quarters and it 
is evidence of good taste in more 
ways than one to eat the garnish. 

Many a home in f restless sections 
of California has its own constant 
lemon supply growing in the back 
yard, for the lemon, with proper 
pruning, is an interesting if not al- 
ways ornamental tree. It is particu- 
larly interesting because it never 
rests. Each tree exhibits at one time 
fruit in all stages of development, 
from the bud to the mature lemon. 

In commercial orchards, the fruit 
is clipped off when it reaches the 
required size, the size being deter- 
mined by rings which are slipped 
over the fruit as it hangs. After 
picking, lemons must be cured be- 
fore marketing, for they are not in 
condition for use when taken from 
the tree. Strange to say, to allow 



Lemons 



65 



the fruit to hang on the tree until it 
becomes "lemon color" produces a 
fruit that is over-size, deficient in 
juice, likely to develop bitterness, 
and prone to decay. Picked before 
they turn color, and properly cured, 
lemons will keep for months, and 
will actually improve in quality by a 
thinning and toughening of the skin 
and an increase in content of juice. 

BEST LEMONADE 

Juice of 6 lemons 

^ to 1 cupful of sugar 

6 cupfuls of cold water 

Put sugar in pitcher; add iced 
water. Stir until sugar is dissolved ; 
add lemon juice and serve imme- 
diately. 

LEMON SAUCE 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

3 tablespoonfuls of flour 
Y-2. teaspoonful of salt 

l /4 teaspoonful of paprika 

\y 2 cupfuls of water or meat stock 

3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

1 tablespoonful of finely chopped 

parsley 

Melt butter; add flour, salt, and 
paprika; and when well-mixed add 
water or meat stock. Bring to boil- 
ing point, stirring constantly; add 
lemon juice and parsley and serve. 
This sauce is used for meat, fish, 
and vegetables. 

LEMON-PARSLEY BUTTER 
SAUCE 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
l /4 teaspoonful of salt 
Y% teaspoonful of pepper 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

1 tablespoonful of finely chopped 
parsley 

Work butter until creamy; add 
salt and pepper, then lemon juice 
and parsley. Serve on hot fish, 
steak, or vegetables. 



LEMON SAUCE FOR DESSERTS 

Vz cupful of butter 

1 cupful of sugar 

legg 

*4 cupful of boiling water 

Juice of 1 lemon and y* the grated 

rind 
1 teaspoonful of nutmeg 

Cream the butter. Add the sugar 
gradually and the egg slightly 
beaten. Beat. Add the water and 
cook until the mixture thickens. 
Add the lemon juice and rind and 
nutmeg. 



LEMON CREAM PATTIES 

2 cupfuls of sugar 
y cupful of water 
y$ cupful of lemon juice 
Yellow coloring 

Mix sugar, water, and lemon 
juice and boil without stirring until 
a little dropped in cold water forms 
a firm ball. Set in a pan of cold 
water and beat until the mixture be- 
gins to look cloudy ; add yellow col- 
oring and drop on waxed paper to 
form wafers of delicious fondant. 



LEMON GELATINE 

1 tablespoonful of granulated 

gelatine 

2 tablespoonfuls of cold water 
\y 2 cupfuls of boiling water 

1 cupful of sugar 

Few grains of salt 

*/4 cupful of lemon juice 

Soak gelatine in cold water 5 
minutes ; add boiling water, sugar, 
salt, and lemon juice. Turn into 
cold molds and chill. For Lemon 
Sponge, when lemon jelly begins to 
stiffen, beat with egg-beater until 
light and frothy. For Lemon Snow, 
add to lemon sponge the stiffly 
beaten whites of 2 eggs. 



66 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



LEMON-JUICE DRESSINGS 

For salad dressings using lemon 
juice, see Index. 

LEMON BAVARIAN CREAM 

1 tablespoonful of granulated 

gelatine 
Y-2. cupful of water 

1 cupful of sugar 

YZ cupful of lemon juice 

2 eggs, separated 

1 cupful of pastry cream 

Soak gelatine in 2 tablespoonfuls 
of cold water 5 minutes. Put ^2 
cupful of sugar, remainder of water 
and lemon juice in double boiler; 
when heated, add egg yolks beaten 
with remaining y 2 cupful of sugar. 
Cook, stirring occasionally, until 
thickened. Add gelatine; turn into 
cold mold and stir occasionally until 
cold. Fold in stiffly beaten egg 
whites and whipped cream. 

LEMON MILK SHERBET 

Y-2. cupful of lemon juice 

2 cupfuls of sugar 
4 cupfuls of milk 

Add sugar to strained lemon juice. 
Add milk, stir until sugar is dis- 
solved, and freeze in rotary freezer. 

LITTLE LEMON CAKES 

*/s cupful of shortening 
3<3 cupful of sugar 
y 2 teaspoonful of grated lemon 
rind 

3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
2 eggs 

\y$ cupfuls of flour 

y^ teaspoonful of salt 

2^2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

Cream shortening, work in sugar, 
and add lemon juice and rind and 
beaten egg yolks. Add flour sifted 
with baking powder and salt. Fold 
in stiffly beaten egg whites. Bake in 
greased and floured muffin tins in a 



moderate oven (350) 25 minutes. 
Cool and cut into two layers. Spread 
lemon filling between layers and 
dredge each with powdered sugar. 

LEMON FILLING 

1 egg 

1 cupful of sugar 

y$ cupful of lemon juice 

Grated rind of 1 lemon 

Add sugar, lemon juice, and rind 
to beaten egg; cook over hot water 
until very thick. Cool, beat until 
smooth, and spread between layers 
of cake. 

LEMON ICE 

\ l /3 cupfuls of sugar 

3 cupfuls of water 

l / 2 cupful of lemon juice 

Boil sugar and water 5 minutes ; 
add lemon juice, cool, and strain 
into freezer. Pack with 3 parts ice 
to 1 part salt ; let stand 5 minutes ; 
then freeze until stiff. Excellent to 
serve with meat course, 

LEMON FROSTING 

1 cupful of sugar 
y^ cupful of water 

l /4 cupful of lemon juice 

2 stiffly beaten egg whites 

Boil sugar, water, and lemon juice 
without stirring until syrup spins a 
permanent thread (244). Remove 
from heat and let stand while beat- 
ing egg whites. Pour syrup slowly 
over beaten egg whites, beating until 
frosting is stiff enough to spread. 

LEMON BUTTER ICING 

r / 2 cupful of butter 
*4 teaspoonful of grated lemon 
rind 

3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
Sifted powdered sugar 

Cream butter until very soft and 
add grated rind. Alternately add 



Lemons 



67 



lemon juice and sugar, beating until 
light, and adding sugar until icing is 
thick enough to spread. 

LEMON CAKE PIE 

*/4 cupful of butter 
1 cupful of sugar 
Juice and grated rind of 1 large 
lemon 

1 cupful of milk 

2 eggs, separated 

2 tablespoonf uls of flour 

Cream the butter and sugar, add 
the lemon juice and rind and the 
egg yolks, and cream the mixture 
well. Now add the flour and milk, 
and lastly fold in the egg whites, 
beaten stiff. Pour into an unbaked 
pie shell, put into a hot oven (450) 
for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat 
to 325 degrees and bake until "set," 
as a custard pie. It will require 
about 45 minutes. Makes one 8- 
inch pie. The bottom part will be 
like a custard, the top part some- 
thing like cake. 



LEMON MERINGUE PIE. I 

(Thickened with cornstarch and 
egg) 

5 tablespoonf uls of lemon juice 
1 teaspoonful of grated lemon 

rind 

Y$ cupful of sugar 
*4 teaspoonful of salt 
1^2 cupfuls of cold water 
5 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 

1 tablespoonful of butter 

2 eggs, separated 

Mix lemon juice, rind, sugar, salt, 
and 1 cupful of water in top of 
double boiler. Heat and add slowly 
to cornstarch mixed with the re- 
maining y-2, cupful of cold water. 
Return to double boiler and cook 10 
minutes, stirring frequently. Add 
butter and slightly beaten egg yolks, 
and cook 2 minutes. 

Pour into a baked pie shell, and 
cover with a meringue made of the 
egg whites and 4 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Bake 15 minutes in a slow 
oven (325). Makes one 8-inch pie. 



CRUMBLY PIE CRUST 

^Y-2. cupfuls of flour 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

6 tablespoonfuls of shortening 

Cold water 

Sift the flour and salt, and cut in 
the shortening with a pastry blender 
or rub lightly with finger tips until 
mixture is somewhat coarser than 
cornmeal. Add water gradually. 
When dough barely clings together, 
chill in refrigerator. To roll out, 
divide dough in two parts and roll 
very lightly on a slightly floured 
board, keeping paste as nearly circu- 
lar as possible. Fit into pie pan, 
prick to prevent air bubbles beneath 
crust, and bake in a hot oven (450) 
until nicely browned. Makes two 
8-inch shells, or one 2-crust pie. 



LEMON MERINGUE PIE. II 
(Thickened with flour and egg) 

1 cupful of sugar 

Y^ teaspoonful of salt 
y* cupful of flour 
1^2 cupfuls of boiling water or 
milk 

2 eggs, separated 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

5 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

1 teaspoonful of grated rind 

Mix 24 cupful of sugar thor- 
oughly with the salt and flour, and 
add y-2 cupful of boiling water 
slowly, stirring. Add the remaining 
water, and cook in a double boiler 
till thickened. Add the remaining 
y cupful of sugar to the beaten 
egg yolks, and add this, with the 
butter, to the cooked mixture. Lastly 



68 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



add the lemon juice and rind. Stir 
and cool before putting into baked 
pie shell. Cover with meringue, 
made by beating the egg whites with 
4 tablespoon fuls of sugar, and bake 
in a slow oven (325) for 15 min- 
utes. Makes one 8-inch pie. 



HOT WATER PIE CRUST 

YZ cupful of shortening 

% cupful of boiling water 

\y^ cupfuls of flour 

y-2. teaspoonful of baking powder 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Put the shortening into a bowl, 
add the boiling water, and beat with 
a fork until creamy. Sift the flour, 
baking powder, and salt into this 
mixture and stir until smooth. Mold 
into a smooth ball, chill in the re- 
frigerator until firm, and roll out as 
directed for Crumbly Pie Crust. 
This is very easy for even an inex- 
perienced cook to make. The dough 
keeps well in the refrigerator, if 
wrapped thoroughly in waxed paper 
to prevent drying out. Bake in hot 
oven (450) until nicely browned. 
Makes two 8-inch shells, or one 2- 
crust pie. 



LIMES 

Limes are grown to a limited ex- 
tent only in southern California, 
and in a few entirely f rostless spots 
in the San Francisco bay region, as 
they are extremely tender trees. The 
West Coast markets are, however, 
well supplied with Mexican limes. 

Limes are used chiefly in iced 
fruit drinks, and for garnishing 
meats and fish. The flavor of the 
small green or yellow-green fruit is 
similar to that of the lemon, with of 
course its own characteristic differ- 
ence, which is scarcely describable. 



ORANGES 

Two varieties of oranges the 
Navel, winter-ripening, and the Va- 
lencia, summer-ripening make it 
possible for the West to furnish 
oranges to the nation as a whole 
every day of the year. 

This tremendous business of 
orange growing and marketing 
really was started in 1873, when 
Mrs. Eliza C. Tibbets, of River- 
side, California, received from the 
United States Department of Agri- 
culture, at Washington, B.C., two 
trees of a new seedless orange, 
then but recently introduced from 
Brazil. 

The trees were planted in the Tib- 
bets yard and, water being scarce, 
Mrs. Tibbets irrigated them with 
her dishwater. Fruit from these 
trees was of such excellent eating 
quality that it attracted widespread 
attention. The pioneer colonists has- 
tened to plant the new orange, and 
so started California's citrus indus- 
try. Now, something like eight mil- 
lion Navel orange trees are growing 
in the state. 

As a result of their success with 
the Navel, the California growers 
introduced a summer - ripening 
orange, the Valencia, which came 
to us from the Moors or Arabs by 
way of Spain. 

Thus the orange, once a rare and 
costly luxury, has become a com- 
mon and inexpensive daily health 
necessity. Nowhere else in the 
country are oranges eaten or drunk 
in such quantities as here in the 
West where they are grown. Per- 
haps there is some connection be- 
tween that fact and the numbers of 
sturdy, straight-legged youngsters 
and the outstanding football teams 
that the West Coast produces ! 

It would seem scarcely necessary 
to provide recipes for using oranges, 



Oranges 



69 



for they are so good in their natural 
state. They do, however, make 
many a good thing better, and so 
you will find here a number of spe- 
cially selected favorite dishes in 
which oranges are an important part. 

Orange Juice Don'ts 

On chilly winter mornings the 
appetite naturally craves a substan- 
tial breakfast, often composed of 
ham and eggs, hot breads, and some 
form of hot cakes. It is important 
that heavy morning meals should be 
accompanied by some form of fresh 
fruit. Orange juice is the common 
favorite, but it should be well pre- 
pared. 

Do not make quantities of orange 
juice "in advance." Orange juice is 
one of the items which must be 
made just before using. If allowed 
to stand it loses the fine edge of its 
flavor. 

Do not strain out the pulp. It has 
real food and health value. The 
juice of California seedless Navels 
can be served without straining. 

Do not serve too cold. Set glass 
in a bowl of ice, if desired, but do 
not put ice in the glass. 

Do not sweeten. The juice is just 
right for the average taste. Let each 
person add sugar if he wishes. 

Do not be "stingy" with your 
servings. Give a full eight-ounce 
tumbler. Citrus fruit juices are rich 
in the anti-scorbutic vitamin C 
which medical authorities state must 
be replaced daily in the system. Six- 
teen ounces of orange juice with the 
juice of one or two lemons in it pro- 
vides the proper daily supply of this 
important element. 

ORANGE JUICE WITH 
FRUIT ICE 

To orange juice, lemonade, or 
other fruit beverages add a spoonful 



of lemon or orange ice, placed in 
the glass at serving time. The bev- 
erage should be cold, and the fruit 
ice replaces the service of crushed 
ice in the glass. A rounded spoon- 
ful of vanilla ice cream added to a 
glass of orange juice makes a de- 
lightful and nutritious beverage. 

How to Bake Oranges 
Successfully 

Soaking oranges over night is not 
necessary. Slightly grating the skin 
and boiling 30 to 40 minutes greatly 
reduces the baking time and gives a 
more tender product. 

If one has not yet acquired a taste 
for a little of the bitter tang com- 
mon to all citrus fruits when cooked, 
then repeated boilings in salt water 
are necessary to remove all bitter- 
ness. 

A casserole of glass or earthen- 
ware is to be preferred for baking. 
Lacking that, one of enamelware 
will do. In all cases have a close- 
fitting lid, since the amount of 
evaporation affects the result. 

Basting several times, when syrup 
does not completely cover the fruit, 
is advisable; the oranges are more 
tender, however, if completely im- 
mersed in syrup. 

The longer the fruit is baked, the 
darker the color and the stronger 
the taste will be. If sufficiently par- 
boiled first, then 1^2 to 2 hours will 
be just right for an amber product. 
If part corn syrup is used, the syrup 
will not recrystallize as it cooks 
down. It is wise economy to bake 
two or three times the amount 
needed for one service and to seal 
the surplus in jars. -Some recipes 
call for the whole orange baked. It 
is evident that the syrup cannot 
penetrate to the inside in this length 
of time and so the pulp may be bit- 
ter and too sour. For that reason it 
is better to section or puncture the 



70 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



orange, rather than to bake it whole. 
Baked halves of oranges are de- 
lightful.. 

BAKED ORANGE SLICES, 
MARLED 

Boil 6 oranges till tender. Cut 
into slices y*. inch thick and place 
in a large casserole or baking pan. 
Cover with a syrup made of 

2 cupfuls of sugar 
24 cupful of corn syrup 
2^4 cupfuls of water 
2 teaspoonfuls of maple flavoring- 
Cover and bake at moderate heat 
1 to \Y2 hours. Place under the di- 
rect flame of the broiler a few min- 
utes if slightly browned slices are 
desired. Maple flavoring blends par- 
ticularly well with oranges. 

BAKED SPICED ORANGES 

Prepare oranges as for Mapled 
Slices. Add to the syrup one 2-inch 
piece of stick cinnamon, 12 cloves, 
and several slices of lemon rind. 
Bake as directed in first recipe. 
Adding y 2 teaspoonful of red color- 
ing gives a pleasing color variation. 

BAKED STUFFED ORANGES 

Select small uniform-sized oranges. 
Parboil till tender after lightly grat- 
ing the skin to break the oil cells. 
Parboiling may take 30 to 40 min- 
utes. Remove from water and with 
a sharp knife or apple corer make 
a hole almost through each orange. 
Stuff each with 1 teaspoonful of 
butter and as many raisins or pitted 
dates or candied cherries as can be 
forced in. Place in a deep baking 
dish and cover with a syrup made 
in the following proportions : 

1 cupful of sugar 
1 cupful of water 
y& cupful of corn syrup 

Bake, closely covered, \ l /2 hours, 
basting occasionally if necessary. 



Variations : Stuff oranges with 
crushed pineapple or cocoanut or 
nuts. Just before serving whole or 
sliced baked oranges, brown a 
marshmallow on each. 

Baked oranges are good with ever 
so many different main dishes. With 
baked ham they make a most inter- 
esting combination, and they are 
equally good with chicken or other 
fowl, and with chops. 

The Mapled Orange Slices are 
delicious with ice cream. When 
planning to use them in that way it 
is well to cut the slices into small 
sections before baking. 

Baked Orange Salad is an un- 
usual though very simple dish to 
prepare. For a large plate of the 
salad to be served at the table, ar- 
range narrow strips of baked orange 
on a bed of shredded and mari- 
nated lettuce. Center with a mound 
of cottage or cream cheese. Halves 
of small baked oranges filled with 
cheese make attractive individual 
salads. > , [ j 

BAKED PICKLED ORANGE 
SLICES 

Boil large, whole oranges in a 
generous amount of water 1 hour 
or until tender, changing water 
twice and adding 1 teaspoonful of 
salt to the first boiling. Drain. Cut 
into half-inch slices. Insert 6 cloves 
in each slice. Prepare the following 
spiced syrup: 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

l /4 cupful of corn syrup 

1 cupful of vinegar 

Y-2. cupful of water 

12 bruised coriander seeds 

Contents of 2 cardamom seed pods 

1 two-inch piece of stick cinnamon 

Boil S minutes, add orange slices, 
and boil 15 minutes. Transfer to a 
casserole or other covered baking- 
dish, and bake 45 minutes in a 



Oranges 



71 



slightly hotter than moderate oven 
(400). If syrup does not com- 
pletely cover the fruit, baste occa- 
sionally. Seal in sterilized jars. 
Serve with hot or cold meats. 

BAKED ORANGE RELISH 

1 orange 

2 slices of pineapple 

y 2 teaspoonful of cinnamon 

4 cloves, whole 

Y% teaspoonful of nutmeg 

1 tablespoonful of pineapple juice 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

Wash orange thoroughly and slice 
very thin, leaving skin on. Add 
other ingredients. Put in oven glass 
or enamel dish. Place in cooker and 
turn to high heat until mixture is 
thoroughly heated, then turn heat to 
low and cook until relish is thick. 
From 2 to 3 hours time will be 
necessary. Delicious with meats. 

SUNKIST RAISED ORANGE 
ROLLS 

These are ever so easy to make, 
though they appear otherwise in 
their finished form. Serve them to 
accompany fruit salad in cantaloupe 
halves for a summer luncheon, if 
you wish to make a real impression 
on your guests ! This recipe makes 
about thirty medium-sized rolls. 

1 cake of compressed yeast 

l /\ cupful of lukewarm water 

1 egg, well beaten 

6 tablespoonfuls of melted shorten- 
ing 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 cupful of sugar 

24 cupful of orange juice 

1 teaspoonful of grated orange 
rind 

3 cupfuls of flour, or more 

Combine ingredients in order given 
and beat until smooth, adding more 
flour if necessary. Knead until 



smooth and elastic, but not extremely 
stiff. Let rise in a warm place until 
double in bulk, then knead again 
and shape like Parker House rolls, 
placing a half segment of orange in 
the fold of each roll. Let rise again 
until double in bulk, then bake in a 
hot oven (450) for 15 to 20 min- 
utes. While warm, cover liberally 
with icing made as follows : 

Orange Butter Icing 
3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
3 tablespoonfuls of orange juice 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
1 teaspoonful of grated orange 

rind 

\y 2 cupfuls of powdered sugar, 
free from lumps 

Cream together thoroughly and 
spread on the warm rolls. This icing 
is excellent also on cinnamon rolls ; 
a dash of powdered cinnamon may 
be added to the icing in that case. 

ORANGE BREAD 

Rind of 3 oranges, cut small 

Water 

y 2 cupful of sugar 

y 2 cupful of water 

Boil the cut rind 10 minutes in 
water to cover; drain and repeat; 
drain again, add the sugar and wa- 
ter, and boil 5 minutes. Set aside. 
Now combine the following in the 
order given, sifting the dry ingre- 
dients together, and adding liquid. 

1 cupful of sugar 

3 cupfuls of flour 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 
1 egg, beaten 
1 cupful of milk 
1 tablespoonful of melted butter 
Orange peeling as prepared above 
y 2 cupful of chopped candied 
citron 

Pour mixture into an oiled bread- 
tin and bake in a moderate oven 
(375) 40 to 45 minutes. 



72 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



ORANGE RUSKS 

1 y 2 cakes of yeast, crumbled 
Y2 cupful of warm water 

2 cupfuls of orange juice 

y 2 cupful of shortening, melted 
2 /3 cupful of sugar 
2 teaspoonf uls of salt 
2 eggs, beaten 

1 teaspoonful of mace or 

% teaspoonful of nutmeg or carda- 
mom 

2 tablespoon f uls of grated orange 

peel or shredded candied peel 
8 cupfuls of flour 
Raisins, citron, or nuts, or all 

three, if desired 

Soak the yeast (either dry or 
compressed) in the warm water. 
While it is softening, mix together 
all the other ingredients except the 
flour; add the yeast and the flour, 
and beat well. Let rise in a warm 
place until very light doubled in 
bulk then stir the dough to break 
down the gas bubbles. Drop the 
dough by spoonfuls into well-but- 
tered muffin tins, turning it over 
with a spoon and fork to butter all 
surfaces. Let rise until very light, 
and bake in a hot oven (450) for 
about 10 minutes, or until a pretty 
golden-brown. Turn out of pans, 
cool slightly, and spread tops with 
orange butter icing as directed 
above. Serve fresh. Excellent with 
a fruit salad or cottage cheese and 
fruit combination, and coffee. 

HAM WITH ORANGE 

Most popular and famous of 
American breakfast dishes perhaps 
is "ham an'," which may be deli- 
ciously varied as "ham an' oranges." 

6 servings of fried breakfast ham 
2 tablespoonf uls of flour 
2 cupfuls of orange juice 
2 oranges, sliced 

Add flour to 2 tablespoonfuls of 
fat from frying ham and cook until 
lightly browned. Add orange juice, 



stirring well to avoid lumps. Cook 
5 minutes or until sauce is thick. 
Pour sauce around ham on serving 
dish. Garnish with sliced oranges 
and parsley. Serves six. 

MARMALADE GINGERBREAD 

1 cupful of orange marmalade 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
1 egg, well beaten 

l / 2 cupful of molasses 

\y^ cupfuls of sifted cake flour 

l / 2 teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 teaspoonful of soda 

y$ teaspoonful of double-acting 

baking powder 
1 teaspoonful of ginger 
1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 

4 tablespoonfuls of boiling water 

Sift flour once, measure, and sift 
with salt, soda, baking powder, cin- 
namon, and ginger. Cream butter 
thoroughly. Add marmalade, beaten 
egg, and molasses and blend thor- 
oughly. Add flour sifted with other 
dry ingredients. Gradually add hot 
water to mixture, beating until 
smooth. Pour into a greased pan, 
8X8X2 inches, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven (350) 20 to 25 min- 
utes. Remove from pan and cool 
on cake cooler. 

ORANGE SPONGE CAKE 

4 eggs, yolks and whites separated 

y 2 cupful of orange juice 

1 teaspoonful of grated rind 

\y 2 cupfuls of sugar 

iy 2 cupfuls of flour, sifted 6 times 

l /% teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 teaspoonful of baking powder 

Beat the egg yolks thoroughly 
with a rotary beater; add orange 
juice and rind, and beat again. Add 
sugar gradually, continuing to beat 
hard. Fold in the sifted flour grad- 
ually. Add salt to egg whites, beat 
until foamy, then add baking pow- 
der and continue beating until stiff 



Oranges 



73 



but not dry. Fold into cake mix- 
ture, pour into an ungreased tube 
cake pan, and bake in a slow oven 
(325) for 1 hour. Frost with 
Orange Butter Icing (see page 71). 

ORANGE SOUFFLE PIE 

1 cupful of orange juice 
Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 
4 tablespoonfuls of flour 

1 cupful of sugar 

3 eggs, yolks and whites separated 

Heat the orange and lemon juice 
and rind in a double boiler. Com- 
bine the flour with 4 cupful of 
sugar, mix to a paste with a little 
of the juice before it is hot, stir in, 
and cook, stirring, until thickened 
and smooth, then let cook 10 min- 
utes longer. Add the egg yolks, well 
beaten, and cook, stirring, until 
thick. Beat the egg whites stiff, and 
beat in the remaining Y^. cupful of 
sugar. Fold the hot mixture into 
the whites, pour into a baked crust, 
and let cool. Serve topped with 
whipped cream. 

ORANGE CREAM SAUCE 

Try this, spread over slices of 
sponge or other plain cake. Your 
family will call for more, I feel sure. 

Juice and grated rind of 1 orange 
y* cupful of sugar 

2 egg yolks, beaten 

1 cupful of heavy cream 

Heat the orange juice, grated 
rind) and sugar together for 10 min- 
utes in the upper part of a double 
boiler, then strain. Cook again about 
2 minutes, and carefully add the 
beaten egg yolks. Cook 5 minutes, 
stirring constantly; let cool, then 
chill in the refrigerator. Fold in the 
whipped cream just before serving. 
This is truly delicious. 



ORANGE AND RICE PUDDING 

2 cupfuls of boiled rice 
y-2. cupful of peanut brittle 
Yn pint of whipping cream 
1 teaspoonful of vanilla 
1 orange 

Whip the cream stiff, add a few 
grains of salt, flavor with vanilla, 
then add ground peanut brittle and 
diced orange. Mix together well 
and then mix thoroughly with the 
cold boiled rice. 

SUNKIST ICE-BOX CAKE 

1 cupful of orange juice 

2 tablespoonfuls of granulated 

gelatine ( 1 envelope) 
y* cupful of water 
Vz cupful of sugar 
12 marshmallows, cut into eighths 
y 2 cupful of orange pieces 
1 cupful of whipping cream 

Soak gelatine and % cupful of 
orange juice 5 minutes, then liquefy 
over hot water. Dissolve sugar in 
y 2 cupful of boiling water and add 
to gelatine with 4 cupful of orange 
juice. Let stand while gelatine mix- 
ture cools. When gelatine begins to 
stiffen, beat till fluffy. Fold in or- 
ange pieces and marshmallows, and 
lastly 1 cupful of whipping cream, 
beaten stiff. Line bottom of spring 
form with halves of ladyfingers. 
Cut one round end from enough 
halves of ladyfingers to stand up 
around edge of form, letting the 
cut ends touch the bottom of the 
pan. (Allow 24 ladyfingers.) Pour 
in half the filling. Lay on any pieces 
or extra ladyfingers and cover with 
rest of the filling. Leave in ice- 
box over night or until thoroughly 
chilled. Remove sides of spring 
form when ready to serve. Deco- 
rate, if desired, with additional 
whipped cream and orange sections 
around top and base of cake. Serves 
eight to ten, and looks very pretty. 



74 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



ORANGE DELICIOUS 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

1 cupful of water 

2 cupfuls of orange juice 

1 cupful of milk 

2 egg yolks, well beaten 

1 pint of cream, or half cream 
and half evaporated milk 

This ice cream, which is frozen 
in a rotary freezer, is a truly deli- 
cious dessert. 

Boil the sugar and water together 
to a thick syrup, remove from the 
fire, add the orange juice, and let 
cool. Meanwhile, scald the milk, 
pour over the well-beaten egg yolks, 
stirring constantly; return to the 
fire and cook slowly, stirring, for 
about 3 minutes, or until slightly 
thickened as for custard. Cool, then 
stir in the cream, or cream and 
evaporated milk (these are not to 
be whipped), mix with the orange 
syrup, and freeze in a rotary 
freezer, using 1 part of coarse ice- 
cream salt to 8 parts of ice. When 
stiff, drain off the water, remove 
the dash from the freezer, cork the 
top, and pack the freezer well, us- 
ing 1 part of crushed ice to 3 parts 
of salt. Let stand a couple of hours 
to ripen, before serving. Makes 
about 2 quarts. 

CANDIED ORANGE OR 
LEMON PEEL 

Remove peel from 6 oranges (or 
8 lemons) in quarters. Cover with 
water to which 1 teaspoonful of salt 
has been added. Boil 30 minutes. 
Drain. Boil in fresh water until 
tender, about */2 hour longer. Drain. 
Divide peel into 2 equal parts. 
Bring 1 cupful of sugar and J^ cup- 
ful of water to boil. Add one por- 
tion of peel. Boil gently until syrup 
is nearly absorbed. Drain. Roll in 
sugar. Cut with scissors into bits. 



Repeat process for remaining peel. 
This should make somewhat more 
than a pound of candied fruit. 

SOUR ORANGE 

In some parts of the West the 
sour orange is being used for its 
decorative quality. There is a grow- 
ing tendency to experiment with 
these oranges to see the use to 
which they can be put as food. Al- 
ready it has been proved that their 
juice makes a good substitute for 
lemon juice, and the experimentally 
inclined homemaker can, doubtless, 
figure out many other uses for them 
such as marmalade, lemon milk 
sherbet, and others. 

GIANT SHADDOCK 

The Cuban Giant Shaddock, a 
freak variety of citrus fruit, is a 
huge, rough-skinned yellow ball, de- 
licious in flavor. Use as other citrus 
fruits. 

THE TANGERINE 

"Tangerine" is the trade name for 
a variety of Mandarin orange, a 
Chinese fruit, supposed to have re- 
ceived its name because only the 
nobles or Mandarins were rich 
enough to buy it or because it was 
ranked among the noblest fruits of 
the Flowery Kingdom. 

In America, it has been nick- 
named "kid-glove orange" because 
of the ease with which it is peeled 
and the fruit segments separated 
and eaten. 

It is a smaller fruit than the com- 
mon or sweet orange, deep, reddish 
orange in color, with a flavor that 
is different and of a pleasing, aro- 
matic, tangy quality. 

California's citrus groves include 
some commercial plantings of tan- 



Tangerines 



75 



gerines. The fruit ripens during 
January, February, March, and 
April and is to be found in many 
Western markets during those 
months. 

Tangerines, when obtainable, of- 
fer an unusual treat to the menu- 
planner who wishes "something dif- 
ferent" for they are not only deli- 
cious eaten out of hand, but they 
lend themselves to many flavorful 
beverage, cocktail, salad, and dessert 
combinations. 

Remember that tangerines may be 
used in practically any recipe that 
calls for oranges or grapefruit. 
Don't be afraid to experiment with 
original combinations and substitu- 
tions. That is the way that all deli- 
cious new recipes are originated, 
you know. 

To Prepare for Eating 

Juice. Cut fruit in halves. Ex- 
tract juice on reamer or mechanical 
extractor as with oranges or lemons. 

Segments. Peel fruit and sepa- 
rate segments, retaining membrane. 
Cut out seeds with scissors, if de- 
sired. The peeled fruit with seg- 
ments spread apart at one end 
makes an attractive cup to hold 
cheese or chopped fruits or vege- 
tables in a salad. 

Pieces. Cut segments in two 
with scissors. 

Peel. Grate peel and use for fla- 
voring cakes, pies, breads, biscuits, 
frostings, and fillings. 

Tangerine Beverages and 
Appetizers 

Serve for first course or as bever- 
age with any meal : 

1. Small glass of tangerine juice, 

chilled if desired. 

2. One-third cupful each of tanger- 

ine and grapefruit juice, sweet- 
ened to taste. 



3. Two-thirds cupful of tangerine 

juice and one-third cupful of 
ginger ale, chilled. 

4. Add tangerine juice to grapefruit 

or orange sections or other 
fruits for a different fruit cup. 

Tangerine Salad Suggestions 

Serve on lettuce-covered salad 
plate. 

1. Tangerine with segments sepa- 

rated to make a cup ; cup filled 
with cottage cheese. Surround 
with double row of grapefruit 
segments. Serve with sweet 
French dressing. 

2. Tangerine cup with cottage 

cheese as above. Place each 
cup on a pineapple ring. Serve 
with sweet French dressing. 

3. Tangerine cup filled with avo- 

cado cubes, sprinkled lightly 
with salt and paprika. Tan- 
gerine juice or sweet French 
dressing. 

4. Tangerine pieces, banana cubes, 

quartered marshmallows, equal 
parts.. Any dressing. 

JELLIED TANGERINE 
COCKTAIL 

1^4 cupfuls of tangerine juice 
1 package of lemon gelatine 
1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 
1 cupful of tangerine sections 

with skin removed 
Finely chopped mint 

Heat tangerine juice almost to 
boiling point, pour over gelatine, 
and then add lemon juice. Set in a 
pan of ice water to congeal and 
when thick, like molasses, add tan- 
gerine sections and pour into an 
oblong pan. Set in refrigerator to 
chill thoroughly. When ready to 
serve, cut into half -inch squares, 
pile into cocktail glasses and then 
sprinkle with finely chopped mint 
blended with a little fruit juice. 



76 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



DATES, FRESH 

New in the field of fresh winter 
fruits are dates, from the Coachella 
Valley of California and the golden 
desert valleys of Arizona. Cured 
dates have, of course, been on the 
market for years, and are a justly 
popular sweet addition to dozens of 
desserts. The fresh ripe date, picked 
fresh, packed fresh, and shipped 
under refrigeration as any other 
perishable, is a new treat. 

Plump and inviting, and not at all 
sticky, fresh dates are delightful to 
nibble after meals or between meals. 
Pitted and sliced, they are deli- 
ciously rich served with cream ; nat- 
urally they are fine with cereals, hot 
or cold. Halved or chopped, they 
furnish splendid notes of color and 
flavor to fruit salads, fruit cups or 
cocktails, and desserts. Fresh dates 
are valuable from the standpoint of 
nutrition because of their natural 
fruit sugars, and the vitamins, A 
and B, which they contain. 

The date palm, grown for centu- 
ries in the arid regions of Asia and 
Africa, was brought to California 
by the Padres. The oldest date trees 
in the state, survivors of their plant- 
ings, are found at the old San Diego 
Mission. It is only in comparatively 
recent years that the fruit has been 
produced in quantities to make it 
commercially profitable. It is suc- 
cessfully grown in any of the in- 
terior regions that have a suffi- 
ciently high summer temperature. 
The Deglet Noor is the leading va- 
riety grown. 

Date palms bloom from March to 
May. Like the holly, the trees are 
dioecious that is, some are male 
and some are female, and both must 
be planted to secure fruit. Dates 
ripen from August to November. 
According to modern practice, they 
are pasteurized or incubated, to free 



them of obnoxious insects that nat- 
urally infest the date. This con- 
trolled heating also improves the 
flavor of the ripe fruit. (For date 
recipes see "Dried Dates," page 
107.) 

FIGS 

One of the most fascinating of 
characteristic Western fruits is the 
fig. Whether fresh, canned, pre- 
served, pickled, or dried, the fruit is 
most versatile in its uses. More- 
over, it may be grown in a wide 
range of climates and soils, a fact 
interesting to the home gardener 
who has considerable space at his 
command. To produce the finest 
dried figs, with thinnest skin and 
richest sugar content, a warm, dry 
climate is an important factor. 

The first figs brought into the 
United States, like the first dates, 
were brought from Mexico by 
the Spanish Padres, probably about 
1769, and planted at the San Diego 
Mission. 

There are two main types of figs : 
Adriatic and Smyrna. The former 
(the type introduced by the Padres) 
matures its fruit without the aid of 
the fig wasp, while the latter does 
not. So far as general appearances 
go, the Adriatic and the Smyrna fig 
are alike, but there is one important 
difference : the seeds of the Adriatic 
fig are hollow, while in the Smyrna 
each seed contains a kernel, giving 
the fig a nutty flavor and a syrupy 
sweetness found in no other fig. 

An interesting fact about the fig 
is that it produces two distinct crops 
each season. The first, in June, 
comes from fruit buds on last sea- 
son's growth, and is known as the 
"Breba." The second crop, from 
new wood growth, ripens from Au- 
gust to October. 

Trees of the Smyrna fig could not 
be grown in this country until the 



Figs 



77 



late George C. Roeding, of Fresno, 
after years of study and experi- 
ment, found that the Smyrna 
needed two aids in order to pro- 
duce mature fruit. It needed the 
wild, or Capri fig, planted near by 
to furnish pollen ; and then, in order 
to deposit that pollen inside the 
almost closed eye of the fig blossom, 
the tiny Blastophaga, or Fig Wasp, 
must be present. In April, 1899, 
Mr. Roeding, through the aid of the 
United States Department of Agri- 
culture, received a supply of Blasto- 
phagas from Algiers, and the grow- 
ing of the true Smyrna fig in Cali- 
fornia became a reality. Mr. Roe- 
ding gave the name Calimyrna to 
the fig he thus produced. 

Varieties of Figs 

There are several hundred vari- 
eties, varying from onion-shaped to 
pear-shaped, and differing in flavor. 
Those most important in the West 
are: 

Calimyrna (California Smyrna). 
The largest and finest fig grown. 
Has greenish-yellow skin and coarse 
reddish-amber pulp. This is very 
rich and meaty, is excellent fresh, 
and is the standard fig for drying. 

Mission. The well-known Cali- 
fornia black fig, the oldest variety 
in the country. Has purplish-black 
skin, coarse, dull red or brownish 
amber pulp. Used fresh and for 
drying. 

San Pedro White. Very large, 
round fig, with thick, but tender, 
yellow or greenish skin; amber 
pulp. Suited only for table use. 

White Adriatic. Thin, yellow or 
greenish skin; bright strawberry 
red or white pulp, with violet 
streaks in meat. 

Kadota (White Endrich). One 
of the finest figs for all purposes. 



Most persons prefer it for eating 
fresh, for it is extremely sweet and 
rich. Also good for canning, dry- 
ing, and pickling. Has smooth, yel- 
lowish-white skin and pale amber 
pulp. 

How to Prepare 

Figs become soft and are likely 
to ferment rather soon after being 
picked. For eating fresh, they 
should be fully grown but picked 
just before turning soft; therefore, 
select those that are just turning 
soft and buy only for immediate 
use. Fresh figs can be stored for a 
few days only and must be handled 
with great care because they are 
very easily bruised. All figs are or- 
dinarily peeled before serving. 

If you are peeling a large quan- 
tity of figs, rub your hands lightly 
with lard or other shortening, and 
they will not smart. 

How to Serve 

Sliced fresh figs are a delicious 
breakfast dish, or dessert for lunch- 
eon or dinner. Serve with cream 
or lemon. 

Fresh fig pie is made by filling a 
baked pie shell with peeled and 
sliced figs, and covering with sweet- 
ened whipped cream, or topping 
each piece with a spoonful of ice 
cream at serving time. 

The flavors of vanilla ice cream 
and sliced figs blend beautifully. An 
interesting dessert is made by cov- 
ering slices or squares of sponge 
cake with sliced figs, and covering 
with a layer or mound of ice cream. 
Canned Kadota figs may be used 
for this when fresh figs are out of 
season. 

Fresh figs, peeled and halved, 
are delightful and pretty in fruit 
salad plates. Use them in practi- 
cally any way that you make use of 
other fresh fruits. 



78 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



FIG FRYING-PAN CAKE 

Melt 3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a heavy skillet and sprinkle ^2 
cupful of brown sugar over it. Mix 
2 cupfuls of stewed or preserved 
figs (fig conserve may be used for 
this) and 1 cupful of chopped wal- 
nuts. Spread over the sugar, and 
let stand while you make a batter : 

1 beaten egg 

YZ cupful of brown sugar 

l /4 teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 cupful of hot milk 

1 cupful of flour 

\y 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

Mix thoroughly in the order 
given, pour over the fruit in the 
skillet, and bake in a moderate oven 
(350) about 30 minutes. Turn out 
of the pan at once, and serve hot 
with whipped cream. 

For recipes using dried figs, see 
pages 108-109. 

CRAPES 

Grapes, like plums, grow in al- 
most every locality in America ; but 
again, nearly two-thirds of the en- 
tire market crop is produced in 
California. The season runs well 
over half the year, from late June 
to January or February. 

In this state, practically the entire 
output consists of tight - skinned 
grapes, the chief purposes of which 
are for making raisins and wine, 
and for table use. In the North- 
west, the slip-skin grapes such as 
the familiar Eastern Concord are 
in evidence. 

The two main varieties of raisin 
grapes are the round, firm, white- 
skinned Muscat (White Muscat of 
Alexandria) with pronounced fla- 
vor, from which the standard seeded 
raisins are made, and the small, de- 
licious, golden - yellow Thompson 
Seedless, or Sultanina, which make 
the seedless raisins of commerce. 



For table use, the two grape va- 
rieties mentioned above are popular ; 
in addition there are the large, oval, 
firm-fleshed Tokay, or Flame To- 
kay, with reddish skin ; the Mal- 
aga the large, meaty, yellowish- 
green grape, covered with white 
bloom, longer than the Muscat, and 
of lower flavor; the purple, black, 
or white Cornichon ; the dull purple 
Emperor; the large, black Ribier; 
and many others, of local or wider 
fame and popularity. The "Isabella 
Regia," or California Concord, an 
exceedingly large and sweet purple 
slip-skin grape, is attaining consid- 
erable prominence in the state. 

Few directions are needed for 
using Western grapes of any de- 
scription. For cooking, since the 
pulp and skin cannot be separated 
as in the slip-skin varieties, it is best 
to cut the grapes in halves to re- 
move seeds, and proceed as in using 
any berry, in making pie or other 
desserts. Definite directions for 
canning and jelly -making from 
Western grapes are given in the 
chapter on Canning, Preserving, 
Pickling (see page 183). 

OLD-FASHIONED GRAPE PIE 

(Two-crust) 

Pick from the stems 2 cupfuls of 
grapes, of any tight-skinned variety. 
Remove seeds if present. Put into 
a covered saucepan with a table- 
spoonful of water and simmer 
gently to start the juice. Cook about 
15 minutes, then add 2 or 3 table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice and 1 cup- 
ful of sugar, or a little less if the 
grapes are very sweet. A tiny pinch 
of salt will help to emphasize the 
grape flavor also. Let cook a few 
minutes to dissolve the sugar. Mix 
together 2 level tablespoonfuls of 
cornstarch (or 4 level tablespoon- 
fuls of flour) with 2 tablespoonfuls 



Crapes 



79 



of sugar. Blend to a paste with a 
small amount of the hot grape syrup, 
then stir this into the boiling-hot 
grapes, and cook, stirring until 
smooth, Cornstarch will require a 
little longer cooking than flour to 
remove the starch taste. 

Line a pie-pan with rich pastry, 
pour in the grapes (omitting part of 
the syrup if there is too much), dot 
with butter, sprinkle with cinnamon 
if you like it, and put on the top 
crust, decorated with a pattern of 
slits in the pastry to allow steam to 
escape, or use lattice strips. Crimp 
the edges well together, and put into 
a hot oven (450) for 10 minutes, 
then reduce the heat decidedly (to 
350) to finish baking. Allow 30 
minutes for baking. Serve warm or 
cold. 

THOMPSON SEEDLESS 
GRAPE PIE 

Line a pie - pan with rich pie 
crust. Wash and drain 2 to 3 cup- 
fuls of grapes enough to fill the 
pan. Blend 3 level tablespoonfuls 
of flour with ^ cupful of sugar, 
and spread over the grapes. Dot 
with butter and add 1 teaspoonful 
of lemon juice. Cover with lattice 
strips and bake for 10 minutes in a 
hot oven (450), then reduce heat 
to 350 degrees and bake 20 to 30 
minutes longer, or until done. This 
pie is delicious made with green 
Thompson Seedless grapes or green 
Malagas, picked about ten days be- 
fore they are ripe. No lemon need 
be used. The resulting pie is much 
like that made from sour cherries. 

CRAPE HAM 

When baking ham, cover the 
roast with a generous quantity of 
grapes, any kind, halved and seeded. 
Add 1 cupful of brown sugar and 
y* cupful of white sugar for each 



2 pounds of grapes. Cover and 
bake until done. Add no water after 
the grapes are put in. When done, 
remove the ham to a platter, thicken 
the juice in the pan with thin flour 
paste, and serve in a gravy boat. 

CRAPE TAPIOCA 

5 tablespoonfuls of quick-cooking 

tapioca 

l /2 teaspoonful of salt 
1 pint of hot grape juice, white or 

red 

l /2 cupful of sugar 
1 cupful of shredded pineapple 
1 cupful of quartered marshmal- 

lows 
Macaroon crumbs 

Cook the tapioca and salt in the 
hot grape juice in a double boiler 
for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. 
Stir in the sugar. Remove from 
heat and add pineapple. When par- 
tially cooled, stir in the marshmal- 
lows. Place a few spoonfuls of 
macaroon crumbs in a glass bowl or 
individual glasses, pour in mixture, 
chill, and serve with whipped cream. 

CRAPE COMBINATION SALAD 

1 pound of Malaga or Muscat 

grapes, seeded 

1 pint of canned pineapple, diced 
y 2 cupful of pecans 
l /2 pound of marshmallows diced 
1 pint of whipped cream 

Combine the ingredients fifteen 
minutes before serving. It makes a 
good luncheon salad, or it may be 
served as a dessert. 

CRAPE REFRESHMENT 

Stir into 1 pint of lemon ice, 1 
cupful of halved and seeded Tokay 
grapes. Serve in tall glasses topped 
with an emrelette, accompanied by 
crisp chocolate cookies, for summer 
afternoon refreshment. This is truly 
refreshing. 



80 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



CRAPE ICE 

1 package of lemon gelatine 
1 pint of boiling water 
1 cupful of green Malaga grapes, 
halved and seeded 

Dissolve the gelatine in boiling 
water. Chill. When slightly thick- 
ened, fold in grapes. Pour into 
freezing tray of automatic refriger- 
ator, and chill \y 2 hours. Break 
with a spoon and pile lightly in sher- 
bet glasses. The irregular mass 
looks like ice. Serves six. 



MELONS 

Muskmelons and watermelons are 
the two main classifications under 
this heading, but of Western-grown 
muskmelons there are many kinds. 

The small muskmelons with a 
heavily netted skin are commonly 
called cantaloupes. Those having 
smooth, or wrinkled, or only slightly 
netted skins are sometimes called 
winter muskmelons. They include 
the large, white Honeydew, and the 
smaller Honey Ball, with thick, 
sweet, greenish - yellow flesh ; the 
Casaba; and the Persian, or Santa 
Claus melon, which acquires the 
latter name owing to its long-keep- 
ing qualities. The citrus melon is 
not used fresh but makes excellent 
preserves. 

Some of the netted melons have 
orange-pink flesh, some greenish- 
yellow. Choice is largely a matter 
of personal taste, and what the mar- 
ket affords. 

When Selecting Melons 

The best muskmelons, regardless 
of variety, are well- formed, large, 
heavy for their size, and heavily 
netted with veins which stand out 
unless they are smooth-skin varie- 



ties. When fully ripe, the ground 
color under the netting becomes yel- 
low or golden, the melon yields no- 
ticeably to slight pressure at the 
blossom end, and has a pleasant 
fragrance. In fact, odor is the sur- 
est guide to ripeness. Muskmelons 
picked before they are mature never 
ripen to a full sweetness. They can 
often be detected because the stem 
readily separates from the melon, 
leaving only the scar. Small melons 
are often picked from dead or dis- 
eased vines and are inferior. Ill- 
shaped and badly scarred melons 
seldom have a normal flavor. 

Melons, like most other fruits, 
should not be placed in the refriger- 
ator except for the time necessary 
for chilling before serving. When 
putting them into the refrigerator, 
it is well to wrap them tightly in 
waxed paper, or to put them into 
tin coffee or syrup cans, in order to 
prevent their characteristic odor 
from invading other foods. 

Watermelons, grown throughout 
the West, vary in size and shape 
and characteristic markings. They 
may be round or oval, deep or light 
green in color, and plain or striped. 
To test for ripeness, thump the 
melon. A dull, hollow sound indi- 
cates ripeness but, of course, plug- 
ging is the surest test. 

Simple Ways with Muskmelons 

Large muskmelons, as Honey- 
dew, Casaba, and Persian, are usu- 
ally cut in lengthwise wedges three 
or four inches wide, and served 
with lemon and salt. Small canta- 
loupes are merely cut in half and 
the seeds removed ; they are lovely 
filled with fresh berries, or sliced 
peaches, or with a fruit salad, gar- 
nished with chopped mint. Balls or 
cubes of several varieties of melons 
are pretty and good, combined in 
fruit cups or salads. 



Melons 



81 



CANTALOUPE COCKTAIL 

4 small cantaloupes (to be cut in 
halves 

1 grapefruit 

2 oranges 

2 or 3 very red plums 

1 bunch of grapes (to be divided 

and hung over the side of 

each cantaloupe shell) 
8 maraschino cherries for the top 
16 grape leaves, to use as doilies 

on the plates 

Have all the fruits well chilled. 
The cantaloupes, freed of seeds, 
make charming "cocktail glasses." 
The grapefruit and oranges are 
peeled and sections cut out, the 
plums are cut in neat pieces. (When 
cantaloupes are out of season, grape- 
fruit or orange shells may be used 
to hold the cocktail mixture, and 
other fruits may be substituted for 
the plums and grapes.) 

CANTALOUPE COCKTAIL 
RINGS 

Slice and peel rings of cantaloupe 
one inch thick. Place rings on glass 
salad plates and fill centers with 
seedless white grapes. Dress lightly 
with orange juice, sweetened with a 
little powdered sugar, and serve 
well chilled. 

ARTISTIC FRUIT SALAD 
IN MELON BOWL 

First prepare the salad dressing, 
as follows, and put to chill in the 
refrigerator : 

2 tablespoonf uls ( l / 4 cube) of 

butter 

Yolks of 2 eggs, beaten 
1 1 /2 tablespoonf uls of sugar 
Juice of 1 large lemon, strained 
Pepper and salt to taste 

Mix the first three ingredients in 
a double boiler and cook over hot 
water, stirring constantly, until 
sugar is dissolved. Take from fire 



and add the lemon juice and season- 
ings. Put back on stove and cook 
until stiff, stirring constantly. Cool 
and chill thoroughly. Stir into a 
cupful of whipped cream to serve. 
Cut into not-too-small balls with a 
cutter made for that purpose, the 
following fruits : 

1 cupful of red heart of water- 
melon 

1 cupful of Persian melon 
1 cupful of Honeydew melon 

To these add: 

1 cupful of diced fresh pineapple 
l / 2 cupful of diced fresh peaches 
YZ cupful of diced fresh pears 
Y-2. cupful of ladyfinger grapes, 
peeled and seeded 

Select a good-sized, well-shaped 
watermelon and cut lengthwise. 
Scoop out all the red part and notch 
the edges of the rind, saw - tooth 
fashion. Keep this and all the fruit 
cold until serving time, then place 
the melon shell on a platter deco- 
rated with flowers or greens, fill 
with the mixture, and serve from 
one end of the table. (Have a bowl 
of crisp, ice - cold lettuce leaves 
brought in with the salad.) The 
salad dressing may be passed, let- 
ting each guest help himself, or it 
may be poured over the mixed 
fruits just before the salad is 
brought to the table. Serves six or 
seven. 

MELON AND CRAPE-JUICE 
APPETIZERS 

Scoop out little watermelon and 
cantaloupe balls with a vegetable 
scoop. Squeeze the juice of 1 or- 
ange and Y-2 lemon into a cup and 
fill the cup with red or white grape 
juice. Pour mixture over the melon 
balls, then put in refrigerator to 
chill. A little fresh mint, chopped 
fine and sprinkled over the top, adds 
a pleasing flavor. 



82 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



NECTARINES 

There is a mistaken impression 
that the nectarine is a cross between 
a peach and something else. As a 
matter of fact, it is nothing other 
than a smooth-skinned peach, with 
an especially rich, aromatic flavor 
all its own. It can be served in 
exactly the same ways as the peach, 
and is very fine for canning and 
drying. It is in season in June, July, 
and August. Substitute nectarines 
in any of the recipes given under 
"Peaches" (see page 85). 

OLIVES 

Like so many others of our West- 
ern fruit trees, the olive was 
brought into California from Mex- 
ico by the Padres, being planted 
first at the San Diego Mission by 
Father Junipero Serra and his Fran- 
ciscan missionaries in 1769. 

While olive oil and green olives 
have been produced for centuries in 
the Mediterranean countries, Cali- 
fornia alone in the world produces 
the ripe canned olive. Thus the ripe 
olive is a product of the West Coast 
exclusively. 

The silvery gray foliage of the 
olive tree is beautiful the year 
round. The fruit ripens and is gath- 
ered from September to December, 
or even January in the case of olives 
for oil-making. 

After being sorted and graded 
for sizes, the olives are placed in 
curing vats to undergo a mild alka- 
line treatment for about a week. 
This develops the bland, nut -like 
flavor of the olives, and also the 
uniform, rich brown color desired. 
They are then brined for a short 
time in a very light brine, and then 
canned. The ripe olive is not a 
pickle, but a ripe canned fruit. 

Green olives are picked green, 



cured, brined, and packed in brine. 
They are a true pickle. 

There are more reasons for eat- 
ing ripe olives than the simple one 
that they are good-tasting. The Bu- 
reau of Home Economics of the 
Department of Agriculture has 
tested commercially packed ripe 
olives of the Manzanillo variety by 
means of a series of feeding experi- 
ments, and has found them to be 
rich in vitamin A. 

A jar of ripe olives is almost as 
essential on the shelf of the West- 
ern housewife as salt. There are so 
many ways of using them. Minced, 
mixed with chopped celery and 
nuts, and moistened with mayon- 
naise, they make an ideal sandwich 
spread. They are good chopped and 
mixed with the stuffing for peppers 
and tomatoes. The addition of ol- 
ives to escalloped potatoes is pleas- 
ing. Sliced or whole, they are an 
excellent garnish for salads, sand- 
wiches, and stuffed eggs. In meat 
gravies, dressings, and stuffings, 
ripe olives add the richness of 
mushrooms. Have you tried warm 
ripe olives served with the meat 
course? Heat them gently in olive 
oil in a double boiler. Garlic may 
be added if you wish. 



ITALIAN OLIVES 

Pour into a pint jar about half or 
three-quarters of the liquid from a 
can of ripe olives.. To this add 
about % cupful of salad or olive 
oil, and 1 or 2 buds of garlic, sliced ; 
put in the olives, seeing that the 
liquid covers them. Let stand sev- 
eral hours, then remove garlic and 
keep olives in the liquid until used. 
Keep in cool place, but not cold. 
The oil makes the olives glistening 
black in color, and the garlic gives 
them a most delicious flavor. 



Olives 



83 



OLIVES IN BLANKETS 

Choose large ripe olives. Heat 
them in their juice, remove the 
stones, and stuff the cavities with 
minced onion. Wrap each olive in 
a slice of bacon just long enough to 
lap over so that it may be secured 
with a toothpick. Place under the 
broiler until bacon is crisp, turning 
once during cooking. Place 2 or 3 
together on rounds of toast gar- 
nished with tartar sauce, inserting 
a fresh toothpick in each to sim- 
plify eating, and serve as an appe- 
tizer or canape. 



OLIVE SANDWICHES 

Chop pitted ripe olives rather 
fine; add ^ teaspoonful of onion 
juice and dash of paprika; mix with 
heavy mayonnaise that has been 
made with tarragon vinegar. If 
chives and fresh tarragon leaves are 
at hand, mince and use them in- 
stead of the onion juice, making the 
mayonnaise with lemon juice in- 
stead of tarragon vinegar. 

WINDSOR SANDWICH 
SPREAD 

1 A cupful of butter 

y 2 cupful of cold boiled ham 

y 2 cupful of cold chicken 

2 tablespoonfuls of olives, chopped 

Salt and pepper to taste 

Cream the butter, and add the 
ham, chicken, and olives, all chopped 
fine. Season with salt and pepper. 
To make fancy tea or luncheon 
sandwiches, cut %-inch slices of 
very fresh bread, spread with the 
filling given above, then roll the 
bread as you would a jelly cake. 
Place a dampened napkin in the 
bottom of the pan and stack rolls 
in rows with loose edges down so 
that they will stay rolled. When all 



have been placed in the pan, fold 
the edges of the napkin across the 
top and allow them to stand for a 
few hours before serving. When 
served in a decorated sandwich tray 
or basket, these tiny rolled sand- 
wiches give a very dainty touch to 
the luncheon or tea. 

CREAMED HAM AND MUSH- 
ROOMS WITH OLIVES 

1 y 2 cupf uls of diced cold cooked 

ham 

\ l /2 cupf uls of thin cream sauce 
1 tablespoon ful of chopped green 

or ripe olives 

1 tablespoonful of minced pimiento 
1^ cupf uls of button mushrooms 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt and pepper 

mixed 

Add all ingredients to the cream 
sauce and heat thoroughly over hot 
water. Fill patty shells of either 
plain or puff paste with this mix- 
ture and serve at once, garnished 
with parsley and stuffed olives. 
Serves five. 

CREAMED OLIVES ON TOAST 

1 tablespoonful of butter 

1 tablespoonful of flour 

1 cupful of milk 

y teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 cupful of ripe olives, pitted and 

cut 
y 2 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 

sauce 

Melt the butter in a saucepan ; add 
flour and salt and blend thoroughly. 
Add the milk slowly and cook, stir- 
ring, until smooth and creamy. Put 
in the cut olives and cook 3 minutes, 
then add the kitchen bouquet sauce, 
and serve at once, on slices of crisp 
toast or on toasted crackers. This 
makes a satisfying luncheon. The 
foregoing recipe will serve two per- 
sons; increase measurements as 
needed, following these proportions. 



84 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



SUNDAY NIGHT SAND- 
WICHES 

Spread rounds of graham bread 
(sliced not too thin) with pimiento 
cheese, and in the center of each set 
a small pickled onion with long 
strips of ripe olives radiating from 
it like the petals of a daisy. These 
are open sandwiches, of course. 

SCALLOPED OLIVES AND 
CORN 

2 cupfuls of canned corn 

2 cupfuls of finely diced celery 

y 2 cupful of minced ripe olives 

Y-2. cupful of milk 

54 cupful of buttered bread crumbs 

2 tablespoonf uls of butter 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

y* teaspoonful of pepper 

Put the corn, cooked celery, and 
olives in alternate layers into a but- 
tered baking-dish. Add seasonings, 
butter, and milk. Cover with but- 
tered crumbs and bake in a moder- 
ate oven 30 minutes, 

MACARONI AND OLIVES 

2 cupfuls of macaroni, broken into 

1-inch pieces 
1 tablespoonful of fat 
1 tablespoonful of flour 
\y 2 cupfuls of milk 
1 teaspoonful of mustard 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

y 2 cupful of minced ripe olives 
y 2 cupful of chopped cheese 
y 2 cupful of cooked green peppers, 
chopped 

2 tablespoonf uls of chopped 

pimientos 

% cupful of buttered crumbs 
Pepper 

Cook macaroni in boiling salted 
water until tender. Drain. Make a 
white sauce of the fat, flour, milk, 
and seasonings. Add chopped pep- 
per and cheese and cook slowly until 
cheese is melted. Put a layer of 



macaroni into a buttered baking- 
dish, then a layer of cheese mixture 
and olives. Repeat until ingredients 
have all been used. Cover with but- 
tered crumbs and bake in a moder- 
ate oven 20 minutes. One and one- 
fourth cupfuls of raw rice may be 
substituted for the 2 cupfuls of un- 
cooked macaroni. Cook in double 
boiler the 1^ cupfuls of raw rice 
in 4 cupfuls of boiling salt water. 

"MORE" 

1 pound of round steak 
y$ pound of salt pork 
1 tablespoonful of butter 
1 small onion, minced 
\y 2 cupfuls of spaghetti 
1 large can of tomatoes 
1 small can of peas 
1 small can of pimientos 
1 small can of ripe olives 
y 2 pound of American cheese, 
grated 

Have the meat man grind the 
round steak and pork together. Melt 
the butter in a large frying pan and 
in it lightly brown the minced onion. 
Add the meat and cook until done, 
stirring frequently. Meanwhile, cook 
the spaghetti in boiling, salted water. 
Drain thoroughly and add it to the 
meat. Add the tomatoes and peas, 
and half the pimientos and olives 
(both chopped fine) and half the 
grated cheese. Mix all ingredients 
lightly together with a fork and 
put into a large oiled baking-dish. 
Sprinkle the remaining cheese, olives, 
and pimientos over the top, place the 
dish in a hot oven (400) and bake 
until the cheese is melted about 20 
minutes. This is an excellent beach 
supper dish. With a simple vege- 
table salad, hot rolls, a dessert of 
fruit, and hot coffee made over the 
glowing campfire, one has a com- 
plete and satisfying meal. The rea- 
son for the name of the dish is ob- 
vious when you have sampled it. 



Peaches 



85 



CARROT AND RIPE OLIVE 
SALAD 

Y*. cupful of cold cooked carrots 
1 cupful of cooked peas 
Yt cupful of diced celery or 

shredded cabbage 
YZ cupful of chopped ripe olives 
1 small white onion, minced 
French dressing 
Seasonings 
Mayonnaise 

Mix the vegetables lightly, pour 
a slightly sweetened French dres- 
sing over them, and let stand for 
half an hour in the refrigerator. 
Just before serving, drain off the 
French dressing, season the vege- 
tables nicely with salt and pepper, 
and pile them lightly in lettuce cups, 
topping with a little puff of stiff 
mayonnaise sprinkled with chopped 
parsley or tiny strips of green pep- 
per. 

SWISS STEAK WITH OLIVES 

Two or three pounds of round 
steak cut \ l /2 or 2 inches thick. 
Pound in as much flour on each 
side as steak will hold. Season with 
salt and pepper, and sear in hot fat 
until each side is well browned. 
Cover with boiling water, put lid on 
skillet, and simmer 1 to 2 hours. 
Thirty minutes before steak is ready 
to serve, add 2 cupfuls of strained 
tomato, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced 
onion, and % cupful of finely 
minced ripe olives. 

OLIVE AND TONGUE 

1 Yi cupfuls of cold boiled tongue, 

diced 
Y*. cupful of minced ripe olives 

1 cupful of finely cut celery 

2 tablespoonfuls of minced onion 
Seasonings 

Mix ingredients and marinate with 
French dressing. Serve in lettuce 
cups with boiled salad dressing. 



PEACHES 

Produced up and down the West 
Coast, the peach is one of the sum- 
mer stand-bys. A few varieties come 
on as early as May, in the southern 
interior valleys, and from then until 
late October peaches are on the mar- 
ket in all their lusciousness. 

Cling peaches, which are used al- 
most exclusively for canning and 
pickling here in the West, cannot be 
peeled by simple scalding as can the 
freestone varieties. Dipping in boil- 
ing lye water removes the stubborn 
skin as if by magic. (For direc- 
tions, see Index for "Canning, Pre- 
serving, and Pickling.") To remove 
the pit, a spoon-shaped knife called 
a pitting knife can be bought in any 
Western hardware shop. 

Peaches are not at their best for 
table use until fully ripe. With 
peaches, contrary to pears, fruit 
ripened on the tree is superior in 
flavor to that ripened in storage. 

Peaches, as well as apricots, 
pears, apples, figs, and prunes, may 
be cooked the French way in a 
heavy syrup, flavored with vanilla, 
until the fruit is soft, but not mushy 
nor broken. (See also "Dried 
Fruits.") Such fruits combined with 
cooked rice offer several simple des- 
serts, as the following: 



PEACH CONDE 

1 pint of milk 

Orange and lemon rind 

YZ cupful of uncooked rice 

Y* teaspoonful of salt 

Y cupful of sugar 

6 peaches, fresh or canned 

Scald milk with the orange and 
lemon rind, cut very thin, using two 
or three strips of orange, and one 
of lemon rind. Add the washed rice, 
and cook until the rice is tender. 
Then stir into this cooked rice the 



86 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



sugar and salt, using a fork for stir- 
ring. This rice may be either hot or 
cold when served. 

If fresh peaches are used, peel 
and drop into hot syrup made with 
2 cupfuls of sugar and 1 cupful of 
water cooked together for 10 min- 
utes. Add Y-2 teaspoonf ul of vanilla 
extract and cook slowly until the 
peaches are very tender and can be 
pierced easily. On each dessert plate 
put a mound of the cooked rice ; on 
this, place a cooked peach, and cover 
all with syrup and finally with 
chopped nuts, using any kind of 
nut; pistachio nuts are very pretty. 
Any kind of fruit may be used in 
this way. With pears served in this 
way, chopped preserved ginger is 
put over the top in place of the nuts. 

BAKED PEACH HALVES 

Split large peaches, add a little 
water, sprinkle liberally with sugar, 
and bake in a moderate oven for 
half an hour. Serve with a sauce 
made of 1 cupful of water, 1 table- 
spoonful of cornstarch, J/ cupful of 
sugar, and y 2 teaspoonful or more 
of maple flavoring. Serve warm. 

BAKED PEACHES 

Prick one dozen peaches all over 
with a fork, and set them close to- 
gether in a pan. Sprinkle with 1 
cupful of granulated sugar and add 
just water enough to cover the bot- 
tom of the pan. Bake until soft. 
Serve cream separately. 

HONEYED PEACHES 

Wash and rub well, but do not 
peel, 6 large clingstone peaches. 
Place in a baking pan and add 1^2 
cupfuls of water, ^4 cupful of 
brown sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of 
butter. On top of each peach put 
1 teaspoonful of honey, and sprinkle 



with just a suggestion of nutmeg, 
if the flavor is liked. Bake in a hot 
oven (400) until peaches are ten- 
der. (Apples baked in the same 
manner are delicious; first remove 
the cores and fill cavities with 
raisins, then proceed as directed 
above. ) 

PEACH ICE CREAM 

1 pint of milk 
YZ pint of heavy cream 
1^4 cupfuls of powdered sugar 
Pinch of salt 

\Yz teaspoonf uls of vanilla 
3 egg whites, beaten stiff 
1 cupful of finely mashed ripe 
peach pulp 

Beat the milk, cream, sugar, salt, 
and vanilla together in a bowl. 
Transfer to the freezer can, pack 
with three parts of cracked ice to 
one of salt and begin to freeze. 
After turning for about 8 minutes, 
add the egg whites and peach pulp 
and finish freezing. Pack well with 
ice and salt and let stand for 3 hours 
before serving. This makes 2 quarts. 

PEACH WHIP 

1 package of lemon- or orange- 
flavored gelatine 
1 cupful of hot water 
1 cupful of peach juice 
Y-2. cupful of cream, whipped 

1 cupful of crushed peaches, 

sweetened and drained 

2 or 3 drops of bitter almond 

extract 

Dissolve the gelatine preparation 
in the hot (or warm) water, as di- 
rected on the package. Add peach 
juice. Cool until syrupy, then beat 
with rotary egg beater until of con- 
sistency of whipped cream. Fold in 
whipped cream, peaches, and flavor- 
ing. Turn into molds. Chill until 
firm. Unmold, and garnish with 
peach slices. Serves six. 



Peaches 



87 



PEACH SALAD DESSERT 

6 halves of peaches 
1 package of raspberry gelatine 
1 box of fresh raspberries 
y-2. cupful of mayonnaise 
y$ cupful of whipped cream 
l /4 cupful of chopped almonds 
(toasted) 

Put peaches (pit side down) in 
muffin tins, or any good-sized in- 
dividual molds, and pour gelatine, 
which has been dissolved according 
to directions on package, over them. 
When set, unmold on a lettuce leaf, 
and scoop out the jelly left in the 
center of the peach. Fill the cavity 
with fresh raspberries. Serve with 
toasted nut mayonnaise, made by 
combining the last three ingredients 
of the recipe. The combined flavors 
of peach, raspberry, and almond are 
delicious, and you will be glad to 
know that either fresh or canned 
peaches, and fresh raspberries or 
jam may be used with equal success. 

FRIED PEACHES 

Wash and dry at least 2 peaches 
per person. Split and remove the 
stones. Place cut side down in a 
frying-pan containing melted butter. 
Cook slowly until brown. Turn 
them over, fill the centers with 
granulated sugar, and cook until the 
skin side is brown. Serve hot. 

SURPRISE PEACHES 

Allow 1 or 2 peaches to a serving. 
W r ith a peach-pitting spoon remove 
the stones from cling peaches, keep- 
ing the peach intact. Pare thinly, 
fill the cavity with 1 or 2 marshmal- 
lows, and roll the peach in granu- 
lated sugar. If the peaches are yel- 
low, use white marshmallows ; with 
white peaches, the pink mallows are 
pretty. These are fine, wrapped in 
waxed paper, to include in the chil- 
dren's lunch boxes. 



FRESH PEACH PUDDING 

9 ripe peaches 

2 /3 cupful of sugar 

Vz cupful of water 

l /4 cupful of butter 

Y* cupful of sugar 

1 egg, well beaten 

y-2. cupful of milk 

2y 2 teaspoonfuls of baking 

powder 

iy-2. cupfuls of flour 
Nutmeg 

Peel, stone, and cut in halves 9 
choice ripe peaches. Make a syrup 
with ^3 cupful of sugar and ^3 cup- 
ful of water. In this simmer the 
peach halves until they are tender. 
Then take them off the fire and set 
them aside to cool. Cream the but- 
ter, adding the sugar gradually. 
Beat the egg into the butter and 
sugar mixture. Add alternately the 
milk and the flour, with which the 
baking powder has been sifted. Sea- 
son with grated nutmeg. Butter a 
shallow, medium-sized baking-pan 
which holds about \ l /2 quarts. Ar- 
range the peaches with the syrup in 
the pan, and pour over them the 
cake batter. Bake in a medium hot 
oven (375) about 30 to 40 min- 
utes. Be sure the center is well 
baked. 

Serve with Foamy Custard Sauce. 

Foamy Custard Sauce 

y$ cupful of butter 

1 cupful of sugar 

2 eggs 

y-2 cupful of milk 

1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

YL teaspoonful of vanilla 

Cream the butter, add the sugar, 
the well-beaten egg yolks, and the 
milk, and cook over hot water until 
the mixture thickens. Add the fla- 
voring and fold in the whites beaten 
until they are very stiff. Beat thor- 
oughly and serve at once. 



88 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



PEARS 

There are many varieties of West- 
ern-grown pears, ripening over a 
long season. The Bartlett, which is 
pre-eminently the pear of California, 
comes on the markets from the in- 
terior valleys as early as the last 
week in June, and from then on, 
through July, August, September, 
and October, is ripening in different 
sections and at different altitudes, 
and appears continuously in the 
markets. 

Principal Oregon-grown varieties 
of pears are the Bosc, Cornice, and 
D'Anjou. These come on the mar- 
ket about October 1. The Boscs are 
available from then until January, 
the Cornice until February, and the 
D'Anjou until March or later. 

Pears, unlike peaches, are not best 
flavored when allowed to ripen on 
the tree. They should be picked at 
the first indication of ripeness that 
is, when the stem shows a tendency 
to part from the spur when the fruit 
is gently raised up. Picking at this 
stage, wrapping in paper, and laying 
away in the dark in tight boxes or 
drawers ripens the fruit nicely 
much better than when it is allowed 
to hang on the tree. 

Ripe, juicy pears make a perfect 
ending for a dinner, served as the 
French or Italians offer them, with 
crisp crackers and Monterey Jack 
or other mild cheese. 



EMERALD PEAR SALAD 

Arrange the required number of 
halves of pears, either Bartletts or 
a good winter variety, which have 
been pared and cored, in the bottom 
of a large flat-bottomed pan. Cover 
with a syrup made by dissolving y* 
cupful of sugar in 1 pint of hot 
white grape juice, to which have 
been added the juice of 1 lemon, a 



few drops of spearmint flavoring, 
and enough green coloring to tint 
it nicely. Cook the pears slowly un- 
til tender. Chill and serve with salad 
dressing. 

BAKED PEARS 

4 pears (Bosc, Cornice, or D'Anjou) 

Vz cupful of sugar 

y 2 cupful of water 

Flavorings (a dash of salt, plus a 
little lemon juice and rind; 
or ginger, either preserved 
or dry; or stick cinnamon, 
or red cinnamon candies; or 
a very few cloves ; or a sprin- 
kling of nutmeg) 

Select firm, well-ripened pears, of 
uniform size and shape. Wash, and 
place upright in a deep baking-dish. 
Mix sugar, water, and flavorings 
and pour over the pears, cover the 
dish, and bake slowly (at 300) for 
2 to 2^ hours, or in a hotter oven 
(400) for 1 to iy 2 hours. Serve 
hot or chilled with or without 
whipped or plain cream. The pears 
may be peeled before baking if de- 
sired, or they may be cored, and 
stuffed with raisins and nuts, dates 
and nuts, or other fruit mixture. 

PINK PEARS 

Cook pears gently, until tender, in 
a thin syrup (1 cupful of sugar to 
1 cupful of water) to which has 
been added a handful of clove drops 
(candy "red hots") or a few drops 
of red vegetable coloring. Chill, 
drain, and serve pears with whipped 
cream for dessert. 

PINEAPPLED PEARS 

Cook pears, and while they are 
cooking add 1 can of crushed pine- 
apple. Add sugar to taste if more 
sweetening is needed. This makes 
a delicious combination of flavors. 



Persimmons 



89 



PEARS, PIEDMONT 

Peel and remove the cores from a 
dozen good pears, and stew them in 
syrup. Fill the centers with orange 
marmalade and chopped candied 
fruits. Arrange a layer of cooked 
rice on a platter, place the pears on 
top, and serve with wine sauce or 
custard sauce. 

PEAR SALAD UNUSUAL 

Arrange halves of canned or 
fresh-cooked pears over the bottom 
of a flat square or oblong pan, and 
pour over them lime gelatine (use 
warm pear juice with sufficient 
water added to make the required 
pint of liquid). Chill ; when firm, cut 
in squares with a pear half in each 
square, and serve on lettuce with 
whipped cream dressing. Excellent 
with turkey sandwiches and coffee. 

PERSIMMONS 

Japanese persimmons, the kind 
more common in markets here in 
the Pacific West, are of two chief 
types. One is non-astringent and 
has sweet, crisp flesh, while the 
other is hard and astringent until 
fully ripe and then becomes sweet, 
soft, and juicy. The shape ranges 
from round to elongated and the 
size from comparatively small to 
specimens weighing more than a 
pound each. There is a wide range 
in color, from yellow to pale orange 
or even a dark red, covered with a 
bluish bloom. The fruit chiefly mar- 
keted here is of the soft, juicy type, 
something like a tomato in shape, 
texture, and size, but a beautiful 
rosy orange in color. When green, 
persimmons are generally very 
astringent and puckery, because of 
the large quantity of tannin con- 
tained in the flesh, but when thor- 
oughly mature and ripe the flavor 



is rich and sweet, and the consist- 
ency varies between that of a baked 
apple and a soft custard. 

The sweet varieties of persim- 
mons may be eaten when still hard ; 
the astringent kinds must become 
thoroughly ripe. With some kinds, 
the astringency disappears when the 
fruit begins to soften; with others 
the flesh must reach almost a jelly 
stage before it is really good to eat. 
Their most common use is for des- 
sert fruit, but they are good also 
when used in cakes, puddings, and 
preserves. 

Simply peeled and sliced, persim- 
mons make a delicious dessert 
served with cream. Japanese per- 
simmons with dry cereals make an 
excellent combination. By the way, 
when peeling these large persim- 
mons begin at the small end and 
peel toward the stem, and you will 
find the fruit holds its shape much 
better and is easier to peel. 

When persimmons are served at 
table without previous preparation, 
the usual way of proceeding is to 
place the fruit stem-end down on a 
dessert plate, cut away a bit of the 
skin from what is now the top, and 
eat the fruit with a spoon, removing 
it as daintily as possible from the 
skin. Crackers and Camembert 
or cream cheese make a good 
accompaniment for persimmons 
served thus. 

PERSIMMON SALAD 

Lettuce 

6 large persimmons 

Mayonnaise dressing 

Paprika 

Arrange six salad plates with let- 
tuce and in the center of each place 
a large persimmon which has been 
peeled. Top with mayonnaise and 
paprika. Chopped celery may be 
placed around the persimmon. 



90 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



MOLDED PERSIMMON SALAD 

Peel 3 very ripe persimmons and 
mash with potato masher. Add this 
to contents of one package of pine- 
apple- or lemon-flavored gelatine, 
dissolved in \y 2 cupfuls of hot 
water and cooled. Boiling-hot pine- 
apple juice instead of the boiling 
water may be used with lemon gela- 
tine, and crushed pineapple may be 
added to the persimmon pulp. This 
is a beautiful orange-colored salad. 
Chill, turn out, and serve garnished 
with pineapple or grapefruit seg- 
ments and mayonnaise or cooked 
salad dressing mixed with whipped 
cream. 

STUFFED PERSIMMON SALAD 

Take 1 Japanese persimmon for 
each person. Cut off the top, scoop 
out the soft inside of the fruit, and 
mix with chopped walnuts. Replace 
in shell and serve with a large 
spoonful of mayonnaise or fruit 
dressing on top. Decorate with a 
bit of candied ginger. 

PERSIMMON PUDDING 

1 cupful of persimmon pulp 

1 cupful of sugar 

2 tablespoonf uls of butter 
1 egg, well beaten 

y 2 teaspoonful of salt 

54 teaspoonful of cinnamon 

1 cupful of sifted flour 

2 teaspoonfuls of soda 
l /2 cupful of sweet milk 

Remove stems from the persim- 
mons and press them through a 
ricer or sieve to obtain the pulp, 
then put the ingredients together in 
order given. Pour the mixture into 
a well-greased mold, set inside a 
covered steamer, and steam for two 
hours. Do not remove the lid of 
steamer during this time. Serve hot 
with whipped cream. 



PERSIMMON CREAM PIE 

3 very soft persimmons 

2 eggs 

l /2 cupful or more of sugar 

Y% teaspoonful of salt 

2 cupfuls of rich milk or cream 

Wash the persimmons and put 
through a ricer or rub through a 
colander. Beat the eggs, add the 
sugar and salt, and mix well. Add 
the cream or milk and the mashed 
persimmons. Pour into a partly 
baked pie crust, dot 4 teaspoonfuls 
of butter over the top, and finish 
baking in a moderate oven (375) 
until the custard is set. 



SUNSHINE FLUFF 

6 ripe bananas 

3 large ripe persimmons 

1 cupful of almonds, ground coarse 

1 cupful of cold soft custard 

(optional) 
1 egg white 

^ pint of whipping cream 
Honeyed or candied cherries 

Peel the bananas, and slice one 
banana very thin into each dessert 
dish. Pour over this the persim- 
mons, which have been mashed and 
strained, and sprinkle over all the 
ground almonds. If desired, spread 
over this a layer of the cold custard, 
and top with whipped cream with 
which the egg white has been beaten, 
and decorate each dish with a cherry 
with an almond replacing the pit. 
The custard part of the dessert may 
be omitted. Serves six. 



PERSIMMON ICE CREAM 

Beat together thoroughly 2 cup- 
fuls of persimmon pulp and 1 cup- 
ful of thick, sweet cream, and freeze 
in a rotary freezer. The fruit must 
be thoroughly ripe and non-astrin- 
gent. 



Plums and Prunes 



91 



PERSIMMON FRUIT ICE 

Beat 2 cupf uls of persimmon pulp 
and 1 cupful of sugar to a creamy 
pulp, and freeze in a rotary freezer. 

PINEAPPLE 

From "West of the West" comes 
the pineapple, that always popular 
fruit. Grown on great plantations 
in the Hawaiian Islands, it is found 
fresh in the markets of our Western 
states practically every day of the 
year, to say nothing of the vast 
quantities of pineapple canned in 
the Islands and brought into this 
country for the delectation of every- 
one. 

Pineapple is canned in three pop- 
ular styles sliced, crushed, and in 
the form of tidbits. Pineapple fin- 
gers are also obtainable at a some- 
what higher price. Canned pine- 
apple juice is rapidly growing in 
popularity. 

Fresh pineapple is ripe enough to 
use raw only when the spines at the 
top pull out easily. In preparing 
fresh pineapples for canning, or 
serving fresh, it is wise to slice the 
fruit before attempting to peel it. 
It may be sliced crosswise, in con- 
ventional fashion, and the center 
cores punched out with a small 
empty paprika can or the like ; or it 
may be cut lengthwise in wedge- 
shaped pieces. For use in cocktails 
or salads, it is nice to cut rather 
thin slices, and leave them in as 
large pieces as practicable. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar and let stand 
at least 30 minutes. The sugar 
draws out the juice and makes the 
fruit much more delicious. 

Do not attempt to use raw pine- 
apple in a gelatine salad or dessert. 
It must be scalded for a few min- 
utes before combining, for an 
enzyme present in the raw pineapple 



will "digest" the gelatine and pre- 
vent its congealing successfully. 
Pineapple is so widely used in com- 
bination with other foods that few 
recipes are given here for handling 
it. See the Index for numerous 
recipes in which it appears. 

FRESH PINEAPPLE CAMILLE 

Soak the cut pineapple in pure 
orange juice to cover, adding the 
juice of one lemon. Sugar to taste. 
Let this stand over night in a re- 
frigerator. The pineapple keeps the 
orange from losing its flavor. If the 
pineapple is truly ripe, little or no 
sugar will be needed. 



PLUMS AND PRUNES 

All prunes are plums, but all 
plums are not prunes. What, after 
all, is the difference between them? 
Let Jeannette Cramer, writing in 
Sunset Magazine, answer that ques- 
tion. 

"When is a plum a prune, if ever? 
That question has been debated for 
a good many years. The impression 
seems to exist in some places that 
a plum becomes a prune after it has 
been cured, somewhat after the 
fashion of a tadpole which becomes 
a frog after it has passed through 
a series of finishing processes, and 
even the lexicographer agrees in 
that. 

"I, however, prefer to stand on 
the side of the practical fruit man 
who gives the prune credit for sepa- 
rate existence even while on the tree. 
We go so far as to refer to prune 
trees and prune blossoms, than 
which there is no more delightful 
snowy sight in all the spring-time 
display. A drive through a prune- 
growing region on the annual blos- 
som day is one of the favorite joys 



92 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



of all who dwell in or near prune- 
growing communities." 

In fruit sections, a prune is a 
plum which can be dried without 
removal of the pit, without ferment- 
ing. This means, generally speaking, 
the tart Italians and the sweet Pe- 
tites. These same fruits when mar- 
keted fresh are called, properly, 
plums, along with the rich flavored 
Damsons and exceedingly sweet 
Green Gages. 

Both prunes and plums are truly 
Western crops, for in spite of the 
fact that the native plum is dis- 
tributed more widely throughout the 
country than any other tree fruit, 
about two-thirds of all plum trees 
are found in California, Oregon, 
Washington, and Idaho. The minor 
importance of other producing sec- 
tions is due to the lack of commer- 
cial varieties with the requisite size, 
shipping properties, and dessert 
qualities. 

Italian prunes, used to a great ex- 
tent fresh as well as dried, are pro- 
duced chiefly in Oregon, whereas 
the prune d'Agen, or Petite or Cali- 
fornia French prune, is grown in 
California almost exclusively for 
drying purposes. 

There are dozens of varieties of 
plums grown in these Western states, 
and the list is continually shifting 
owing to discarding of old varieties 
and introduction of new. The plum 
season extends from May to De- 
cember, being at its height of course 
in the summer months. 

One of Luther Burbank's most 
striking achievements was a cross 
between the plum and apricot, pro- 
ducing a delicious fruit called the 
plumcot. It is about the size of an 
apricot, and has a deep purple vel- 
vety skin and brilliant red flesh. 

Altogether, plums are among the 
most interesting of Western fruits. 
Eaten "out of hand" for between- 



meal snacks, or served au naturel 
with toasted crackers and cream 
cheese for the perfect finish to a 
dinner, or prepared in any one of 
dozens of other ways, their tangy 
flavor is delightful. 

Combined with fresh peaches and 
canned pineapple (all the fruits cut 
in rather large pieces), a delightful 
fruit cup is produced. In fruit 
salads, too, plums are very good. 

Cooked and sweetened (let's not 
say "stewed"!) they are good with 
breakfast cereals or with cake or 
cookies for a simple supper dessert. 
Made into pie, well sweetened, they 
are superb. Two tablespoonfuls of 
quick-cooking tapioca sprinkled over 
the bottom crust of the pie will 
thicken the juice just right. And 
any number of delicious conserves, 
jams, and preserves, as well as jelly, 
can be made of this luscious fruit. 
(See Index for chapter on "Can- 
ning, Preserving, and Pickling." See 
also "Dried Fruits.") 

"PLUM GLORIFIED" RICE 

y 2 cupful of raw rice, well washed 

2 cupfuls of milk 

1 cupful of Santa Rosa plums, cut 

small 
1 cupful of whipped cream 

Cook the rice until tender in the 
milk, in a double boiler. Cool, and 
mix in the plums. Chill in the re- 
frigerator, and serve with whipped 
cream. 



FRESH PRUNE SAUCE 

Halve and pit the prunes, leaving 
the skins on. Place in a sauce pan 
with just enough water to prevent 
sticking, and add sugar, 1 cupful to 
each quart of fruit. Let them cook 
gently for 10 or 15 minutes. Serve 
warm or cold. 



Quinces 



93 



POMEGRANATES 

The pomegranate, a native fruit 
of southern Asia, has long been com- 
monly used in Europe. In the United 
States its production is confined to 
the Gulf States and California, com- 
mercial quantities coming only from 
California. The pomegranate is 
often used for decorating fruit 
stands and banquet or home dinner 
tables. The red arils (seeds) and 
crimson juice are used in salads, 
cocktails, punches, and fancy dishes. 
They are relished as a dessert fruit 
by many. 

The fruit is commonly about the 
size of a large orange, but some 
grow to five inches in diameter. The 
color varies from light yellow to 
deep purplish red, and most varie- 
ties have a thick, leathery skin. The 
interior consists of a delicate, sweet 
or sub-acid, pink or red pulp inclos- 
ing many white or purplish-white 
seeds. The fruit matures from Sep- 
tember to November, but having 
good keeping qualities is found on 
the markets from September until 
July and August. 

In choosing fruit, the skin should 
be thin and tough indicating that the 
flavor is well developed, the "rag" 
(the pulp around the arils or seeds) 
diminished, and the seed-coats ten- 
der and edible. Also the fruit should 
contain an abundance o f j uice. Home 
storage improves the flavor of pome- 
granates, and they are often held 
for 5 or 6 months.. In pressing out 
the juice, do not let the fruit come 
in contact with iron utensils, for 
iron blackens the juice. Enamel and 
wood are best to use. 

Pomegranate juice used as a color- 
ing for creamy-white cooked ce- 
reals makes a most interesting dish, 
and it is also a splendid coloring 
for the lighter colored fruits when 
used in salads. For example, apples 



or pears colored with the pome- 
granate juice make a most luscious 
appearing and tasting salad. This 
juice, by the way, is the basis of 
grenadine syrup. 

POMEGRANATE APPETIZER 

Pomegranate seeds mixed with 
chopped filberts, with a bit of honey 
added, served in tiny blue-lined Chi- 
nese bowls make a stunning and de- 
lightful first course for a little din- 
ner. The servings should be very 
small indeed. 

FAERIE SALAD 

1 large yellow pomegranate 

1 large apple 

2 oranges 
A few dates 

1 package of cherry or raspberry 

gelatine 
Bananas and raisins may also be 

added 

The seeds of the yellow pome- 
granate are not so hard and they are 
sweeter than those of the red fruit. 
Make a pint of the gelatine, using 
hot water or fruit juice. Pour a 
small amount into each individual 
mold, and let cool. Keep the re- 
mainder of the gelatine where it will 
not congeal. When that in the molds 
is congealed, put in the finely 
chopped fruits, and add gelatine to 
fill molds. Chill, turn out, and serve 
with whipped cream. 



QUINCES 

Quinces, which grow to great size 
and beauty here in the West, are not 
used nearly so extensively as they 
should be. Probably homemakers 
generally are repelled by the hard- 
ness of the fruit, and the fact that 
they do not know how to attack it. 

Ripening from August through 



94 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



October, the quince is found in the 
market as late as December, for 
when carefully handled it will keep 
a long time. The fruit varies from 
round to pear shape, and when ripe 
is a rich yellow or greenish yellow 
in color. It is covered with a char- 
acteristic fuzz which baffles the 
young housekeeper, but which is 
very easily rubbed off with a dry 
cloth before cutting up the fruit. 
As for cutting, if you have a meat 
cleaver, use it on the stony fruit. 
If not, a sharp, heavy knife on a 
cutting board will work nicely. One 
Western homemaker advises par- 
boiling the fruit for 20 minutes 
before attempting to peel it, thus 
avoiding waste and work. For jelly- 
making, of course, there is no need 
to remove the skin. 

There is considerable difference 
of opinion as to coring the fruit to 
be used for jelly. Some authorities 
state that quince seeds and their 
surrounding cavities are full of a 
gummy substance that prevents the 
making of tender jelly, and that it 
is disastrous to leave the cores in. 
On the other hand, dozens of West- 
ern women whom I have inter- 
viewed tell me they never core 
quinces, and their jelly is excellent. 

Quinces, like apples, need long, 
slow cooking or cooking under pres- 
sure to develop the deep red color 
in preserves and jellies that most of 
us prefer to the clear amber. 

Quinces have little juice and little 
acid, but a great deal of pectin. 
They are accordingly at their best 
when combined with fruits rich in 
acid. Tart apples, grapes, and cran- 
berries are excellent in combination 
with quinces, the juices being com- 
bined half-and-half or otherwise as 
desired. (See Index for "Canning, 
Preserving, and Pickling.") 

Quinces and apples are happy 
companions not only in jelly, but in 



other ways as well. Apple sauce 
becomes new and delightfully dif- 
ferent when a little quince is added. 
One quince for half a dozen apples 
of equal size will be sufficient. Apple 
pies, likewise, may be varied by the 
addition of a little quince. 

BAKED QUINCES 

6 medium quinces 
\y 2 cupfuls of water 
1 cupful of sugar 

Pare, core, and slice the quinces 
into a casserole, add the water and 
sugar, cover, and bake very slowly 
until the fruit is tender and a deep 
red color. If the water evaporates, 
add a little from time to time to in- 
sure enough syrup to surround the 
fruit when it is served. 

QUINCE BETTY 

Arrange in a buttered baking-dish 
alternate layers of fine bread crumbs 
and quince preserves, having the top 
layer of crumbs. Pour over all a 
glass of strained honey, a glass of 
orange juice, and add a bit of can- 
died ginger. Bake 20 minutes in a 
hot oven (400). 

QUINCE SAUCE 

Peel and core and slice the quinces 
and simmer in a simple sugar syrup. 
A whole clove, a bit of cinnamon 
stick, or ring of lemon rind may go 
into the syrup while the fruit is sim- 
mering till tender, but be sure to re- 
move before serving. 



FRUIT COMBINATIONS 

RHUBARB PIE DE LUXE 

Beat 2 eggs slightly, add 2 cup- 
fuls of sugar, % teaspoonful of salt, 
4 crackers rolled fine, 2y 2 cupfuls 



Fruit Combinations 



95 



of fresh rhubarb, cut fine. (Never 
peel tender pink rhubarb ; just wash 
and slice.) Mix well and turn into 
a pie pan lined with plain pastry. 
Dot over with 1^4 teaspoonfuls of 
butter, 1 tablespoonful of apple 
jelly, and sprinkle with nutmeg. Lay 
strips of pastry across the top, and 
bake at 450 for 10 minutes, then 
325 until firm, or about 35 to 40 
minutes longer. Serve with cheese. 

FRUIT CUP SUPREME 

Prepare a mixture of fruits, cut 
into small pieces, and chill thor- 
oughly in refrigerator. Any mixture 
of fruits may be used, oranges, pine- 
apple, apple, peach, and maraschino 
cherries making one good combina- 
tion. Buy or make a quantity of 
lemon ice and store it in a tray in 
the freezing compartment of the re- 
frigerator. At serving time put a 
portion of the fruit mixture in the 
bottom of each sherbet glass. Over 
the top spread a layer of lemon ice 
and garnish with cherries or mint. 

DOUBLE-DECKED FRUIT 
SALAD 

This is an interesting salad, and 
one that does not look too "labored 
over." It calls for: 

6 large fresh peach halves 
6 fresh apricot halves 
6 preserved white figs 
6 or more dates, stuffed with fon- 
dant and nuts or candied fruit 
Y-2. cupful of whipped cream 
Yz cupful of mayonnaise 
Crisp lettuce 

Arrange the crisp lettuce leaves 
on six plates. In the center of each 
plate place a peach half, hollow side 
up. In each peach half place an 
apricot half, hollow side up, and in 
the center of each apricot place a 
preserved fig. Top with mayonnaise 



mixed with whipped cream, and 
garnish with sliced stuffed dates. I 
keep a can of stuffed dates on hand, 
and find them so useful for garnish- 
ing all kinds of fruit salads. I stuff 
them myself and keep them packed 
in cans. 

FROZEN DESSERT 

A frozen dessert which tastes like 
the product of an expensive caterer 
but which is so simple to make that 
any grade-school child can do it is 
frozen in the trays of the refrig- 
erator. To make it, whip 1 cupful 
of heavy cream until it is stiff, and 
fold into the cream j can of marsh- 
mallow whip about 6 ounces. When 
the cream and the marshmallow 
whip are thoroughly blended, flavor 
the mixture with j cupful or so of 
crushed berries or mashed fruit 
pulp, or a couple of squares of 
melted chocolate, or a few table- 
spoonfuls of maple syrup, or some 
very strong black coffee. Nuts are 
good in it, too. Just add and taste 
until the mixture seems right to you, 
then pour it into a tray of the re- 
frigerator and slip it into the freez- 
ing unit. It does not need to be 
stirred while it is freezing, and it 
has a velvety texture like no other 
frozen dessert we have ever tasted. 
It is especially good served between 
cakey waffles with a thin chocolate 
or butterscotch sauce poured over 
all. 

CAKE CRUMB FRUIT 
DESSERTS 

Cake crumbs combined with 
crushed fruit, nuts, and whipped 
cream, and served in dainty glasses, 
make a very delectable dessert. A 
tablespoonful or less of chopped 
preserved ginger and a few marsh- 
mallows to each cupful of whipped 
cream used make a good addition. 



96 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



SALAD DRESSINGS 

Fruits need a dressing which will 
enhance their delicate flavor and 
never conceal it. The simplest of 
these is French dressing, made with 
lemon and orange juice in place of 
vinegar. Bananas will absorb this 
combination to make a very superior 
salad. 

When mayonnaise is used for 
fruit salads it is improved by the 
addition of orange, lemon, grape- 
fruit, or pineapple juice, or whipped 
cream. Chopped maraschino cher- 
ries or else the little preserved mint- 
flavored green grapes will further 
improve the dressing for fruit 
salads. 

Boiled dressing is nicely used 
with fruits, especially if it has been 
made with lemon juice in place of 
vinegar. Precisely the same addi- 
tions as those made to mayonnaise 
for fruit salads may well be made to 
boiled dressings. In mixing fruits, 
handle them very lightly with a fork 
to prevent marring their appearance. 



FRENCH SALAD DRESSING 

24 cupful of oil 

54 cupful of vinegar or lemon 

juice 
Dash of paprika, salt, pepper, 

sugar 

1 teaspoonful of A-l or Worces- 
tershire sauce 
1 tablespoonful of catsup 
1 tablespoonful of chili sauce 
1 clove of garlic, chopped fine 
Chopped parsley and chives, or 
green onions 



Put ingredients together in a 
tightly closed jar, and shake vigor- 
ously. Have well chilled and shake 
again when ready to serve. Excel- 
lent with vegetables or grapefruit. 



FRENCH DRESSING 

1 can of tomato soup 
1 cupful of salad oil 
1 cupful of vinegar 

1 tablespoonful of Worcestershire 

sauce 

2 tablespoonf uls (or more) of 

sugar 

1 teaspoonful of dry mustard 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
1 teaspoonful of paprika 

Mix all together in a quart jar or 
deep bowl and add 1 small whole 
onion and 2 small whole cloves of 
garlic. Shake well or beat with a 
rotary beater. This makes about a 
quart and keeps indefinitely. It is 
delicious on lettuce or other salad. 

FRENCH HONEY DRESSING 

3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
6 tablespoonfuls of salad oil 

*/4 teaspoonful of salt 
l /4 teaspoonful of paprika 
54 cupful of strained honey 

Stir or shake thoroughly before 
serving. Makes about ^ cupful. 
Delicious for fruits. 

LOW-CALORIE DRESSINGS 

If French dressing is made with 
a mild vinegar or with part vinegar 
and part lemon juice, a larger pro- 
portion of acid and smaller propor- 
tion of oil can be used, thereby 
lowering the calories. Another solu- 
tion is the use of mineral oil in place 
of vegetable oils. Thinning mayon- 
naise with fruit juice serves the 
same purpose. 

GRAPE-JUICE DRESSING 

Whip y 2 cupful of thick, sweet 
cream to which have been added a 
few grains of salt; then beat in 
slowly 3 tablespoonfuls of grape 
juice. This is very tasty with any 
bland fruit salad. 



Salad Dressings 



97 



CHEESE DRESSING FOR 
HEARTS OF LETTUCE 

1 small package of cream, pimiento, 

or chili cheese 
6 tablespoonfuls of salad or olive 

oil 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar 
% teaspoonful of salt 
y teaspoonful of pepper 
Sprinkling of paprika 

Mash cheese with a fork, then 
gradually add the oil to make a 
smooth mixture. Now add the vine- 
gar and seasonings. More vinegar 
or lemon juice may be added if de- 
sired. Pour over hearts of lettuce 
or any green salad, or on fruits. 

SIMPLE CREAM DRESSING 
FOR FRUIT 

4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil 

1 tablespoonful of lemon or lime 

juice 

% teaspoonful of salt 
Pepper and cayenne to taste 
y 2 cupful of cream (sweet or sour) 

Beat cream until stiff, add mixed 
oil, acid, and seasonings. Makes 
four servings. 

SOUR-CREAM DRESSING. I 

To 1 cupful of sour cream add 
y 2 cupful of vinegar, y 2 teaspoonful 
of salt, 1 tablespoonful or more of 
sugar, and 1 chopped pimiento. This 
is delicious with coleslaw. 

SOUR-CREAM DRESSING. II 

y 2 cupful of lemon juice 

\y 2 teaspoonfuls of salt 

1 y 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

y 2 teaspoonful of made mustard 

1 pint of sour cream 

y 2 cupful of tomato catsup 

Add lemon juice and dry ingre- 
dients to cream. Beat until thick. 
Add catsup. Stir until well blended. 
Makes about 3 cupfuls. 



PEANUT CREAM SALAD 
DRESSING 

2 teaspoonfuls of salt 
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 
1 cupful of peanut butter 
1 cupful of evaporated milk 
1 cupful of orange juice 

Mix dry ingredients. Blend the 
peanut butter with milk. Combine 
all ingredients and beat until 
smooth. Serve with salad of head 
lettuce, raw chopped cabbage, or 
fruit. Makes \y 2 pints. 

ONE-MINUTE MAYONNAISE 

y 2 cupful of lemon juice 

l /4 cupful of salad oil 

2 /3 cupful of sweetened condensed 

milk 
1 egg yolk (unbeaten) 

1 teaspoonful of dry mustard 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 

Place ingredients in a pint jar. 
Fasten top on tightly and shake vig- 
orously for a few minutes. Makes 
\y 2 cupfuls. 

THOUSAND ISLAND 
DRESSING 

y 2 cupful of mayonnaise 
y$ cupful of chili sauce 
l /4 cupful of tomato catsup 

2 chopped green onions 

1 hard cooked egg, chopped 

1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley 

1 teaspoonful of chopped green 

pepper 
y$ cupful of grated American 

cheese 

Mix all ingredients lightly to- 
gether, and season highly to taste. 
Serve with head lettuce or any de- 
sired salad. 

RUSSIAN DRESSING 

Add y$ cupful of thick chili sauce 
to 1 cupful of mayonnaise and mix 
lightly. 



98 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



LEMON COOKED SALAD 
DRESSING 

24 cupful of lemon juice 
24 cupful of sugar 

2 eggs, beaten 

Mix thoroughly and cook over hot 
water until mixture jells. Chill, and 
serve on fruit salads. Makes \y 2 
cupfuls. Add whipped cream if de- 
sired. 

GOLDEN SALAD DRESSING 
(COOKED) 

3 eggs 

y 2 cupful of pineapple juice 
1 A cupful of lemon juice 
Vz cupful of orange juice 
Y$ cupful of sugar 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 

Beat eggs slightly. Add fruit 
juices, sugar, and salt. Cook, stir- 
ring constantly until thick. Chill 
and serve. Makes \y 2 cupfuls. May 
be mixed with whipped cream. 

SUNK 1ST SPECIAL COOKED 
SALAD DRESSING 

2 egg yolks 

1 cupful of strained orange juice 

3 tablespoon fuls of butter 
3 tablespoonfuls of flour 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

24 teaspoonful of dry mustard 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 
Y^ cupful of lemon juice 

Beat egg yolks with 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of orange juice. Melt butter in 
top part of double boiler, add flour, 
and cook over direct flame 1 minute. 
Return to double boiler. Add sugar, 
mustard, and salt. Mix thoroughly 
and add remaining orange juice 
which has been brought to the boil- 
ing point. Cook 5 minutes. Add egg 
yolk and orange juice mixture and 
cook 1 minute. Remove from double 
boiler; stir in lemon juice slowly. 
Mix thoroughly. Set aside to cool. 
This is especially good on fruit sal- 



ads. Makes about \y 2 cupfuls. It 
may be blended with whipped cream 
if desired. 

LEMON MAYONNAISE 

1 egg yolk 

y 2 teaspoonful of salt 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or 

vinegar 
2 cupfuls of salad oil 

Stir egg yolk, salt, and 1 table- 
spoonful of lemon juice or vinegar 
until well mixed. Beat in oil, slowly 
at first until % cupful is added, 
using a rotary beater. Then add oil 
more rapidly. When dressing be- 
comes thick, thin with remaining 
lemon juice and proceed with re- 
mainder of oil. 

For a sharper, thinner dressing, 
add y cupful of lemon juice just 
before serving. 

For a meat salad, add 2 teaspoon- 
fuls of dry mustard. 

For fruit salad dressing, thin with 
a third as much orange juice. Or 
add y$ cupful of whipped cream and 
24 tablespoonful of lemon juice to 
1 cupful of mayonnaise. 

GREEN RELISH MAYONNAISE 

To serve with lettuce, add y$ cup- 
ful of relish to 1 cupful of mayon- 
naise. 

SUB-TROPICAL FRUITS 

Nowhere else in this country does 
one find the variety of strange, ex- 
otic fruits that one finds in the mar- 
ket places of the West. Some have 
come to us from the tropical coun- 
tries to the south of us ; others have 
been brought by sailing men from 
far countries. Some we have adopted 
into our daily diet, while others we 
really enjoy most from a conversa- 
tional standpoint. 



Sub-Tropical Fruits 



99 



In "thermal belts" which means 
usually hillside tracts where the sun 
falls nicely, which are sheltered 
from the coldest winds, and which 
have good "air drainage" in south- 
ern California, adventurous garden- 
ers are trying new things constantly. 
An inquiring mind and keen ob- 
servation will lead one into pleasant 
paths of exploration. Few fruits 
are absolutely inedible remember 
that the tomato was once considered 
a deadly poison ! The products dis- 
cussed in following paragraphs have 
been well tested. 

Banana. The banana is grown 
only as a novelty home fruit, in 
certain warm, protected situations, 
chiefly around Santa Barbara and 
Los Angeles. It is possible to have 
a supply of this fruit every day in 
the year, in such favorable locations. 

Cactus Fruit, or Prickly Pear. 
The "tuna," or fruit of the cactus, 
was appreciated by the early mining 
population of California until better 
fruits were available. It has a pleas- 
ant acid flavor. To open the fruit 
and avoid the prickles, lay the pear 
on a plate; then, holding it firm by 
means of a fork, cut off both ends, 
slit the skin lengthwise and turn it 
back, thus exposing the flesh. It 
may be eaten thus with a fork, first 
squeezing lemon juice over it and 
sprinkling it with powdered sugar; 
or it may be sliced and served in 
fruit dishes. 

The Carissa, or Natal Plum, 
which is extremely decorative as a 
plant, bears a beautiful little fruit. 
The fruits bright red, about the 
shape and size of a date ripen al- 
most continuously, but the chief 
crop comes in the fall. In Cuba 
many American housewives use Ca- 
rissas like cherries for pies, tarts, 
and dumplings, first scalding them 
to take off the skin, then cutting 
them and removing the inner seedy 



pulp, the juice of which may be 
utilized. The result is delicious. 
Cooked with sugar, the little plums 
make a delicious sauce scarcely dis- 
tinguishable from cranberry sauce. 
Carissas also make good jam, or 
they can be cut into thin, round sec- 
tions and used with charming effect 
as a garnish for pear or pineapple 
salad. 

Cherimoya, or "Cherimoyer" 
Connoisseurs have pronounced the 
cherimoya fruits among the most 
delicious in the world. They are 
roughly heart-shaped and sometimes 
very large, their weight with us 
ranging from a few ounces to 2 or 
3 pounds. The fruit seems to have 
no particular season for ripening; 
around Santa Barbara it seems best 
in April and May. The color is a 
soft green at maturity, changing to 
russet, brown, and almost black, 
while the fruit is still edible, though 
not at its best. The flesh is a white 
custard, with many, far too many, 
large, black seeds. 

The best way to eat a cherimoya 
is to break the fruit, put a portion 
into a saucer, and dip the pulp from 
the thick skin with a spoon, reject- 
ing the seeds as one does cherry 
stones. Or, if one has the patience 
to seed the pulp before serving, it 
makes a wonderful element in a 
fruit salad, being delicately sweet 
and spicy, with a trace of acid and 
what one can only call an exotic 
flavor. If the fruit has darkened 
much, though it still may be good, 
it will have lost its special charm. 
It is said to ship well, but it is best 
as it comes fresh from the garden. 

Eugenia, or Brush Cherry. This 
beautiful ornamental shrub or hedge 
plant produces pretty red fruits, 
which may be used very nicely for 
jams or jellies. 

Kei Apple. This tall hedge shrub 
yields, in warm sections, a golden- 



100 




Western Fruits and Nuts 



yellow edible fruit about an inch in 
diameter, which is chiefly used for 
making preserves. 

Tree Tomato. Another decora- 
tive hedge shrub, the tree tomato, 
yields a fruit the shape and size of 
a duck egg, first of a purple tint, 
then becoming a warm reddish color 
as it ripens. It may be used raw as 
tomatoes are used; peeled, and 
cooked with sugar, it makes a re- 
freshing sauce; or it may be made 
into a fine jelly. 

Feijoa. The feijoa (pronounce 
the "j" like "z"), sometimes called 
pineapple guava, is a highly per- 
fumed fruit, ripening in November. 
The seeds, unlike those of the 
guava, are so small as to be almost 
unnoticeable. In flavor, the feijoa is 
much like the strawberry, but lacks 
acid. The fruit should be allowed to 
drop from the tree, then laid away 
until it begins to soften. It is eaten 
out of hand or with cream, or may 
be used to make jams, fine transpar- 
ent jellies, and the like. 

Guava. Two types of guava are 
grown in southern California: the 
strawberry guava, red as its name 
would imply, and the lemon guava, 
lemon yellow in color. Within the 
waxed skin is a layer of firm flesh, 
then a central mass of seeds and 
pulp. Sometimes the interior is pink 
and sometimes creamy white. What- 
ever the tint, the flavor may be 
either acid or quite sweet, and al- 
ways highly some would say ob- 
trusively aromatic. In Cuba the 
country people eat the fruit fresh or 
sell it to the conserve makers, who 
turn it into jelly or paste. The firm, 
fleshy layer is used also in pre- 
serves, becoming deep red, as pear 
or quince will, and very rich and 
tender. In California, where fruit 
salads are so popular, the fleshy 
part of the raw guava, peeled, cut 
small, and added to other fruits, 



gives the palate a real thrill. (See 
chapter "Canning, Preserving, and 
Pickling" for recipe for guava 
jelly.) 

Flowering Apple, Plum, Quince, 
etc. A number of the ornamental 
fruit trees or shrubs grown solely 
for their blossoms produce, under 
favorable conditions, a crop of beau- 
tiful small fruits. Mrs. A. S. Bald- 
win, of San Francisco, reports that 
she has used these small fruits for 
jelly and preserves, with very good 
results, and Mr. and Mrs. Syd- 
ney B. Mitchell consider "Flori- 
bunda jelly," made from the Flori- 
bunda apple, their choicest jelly. 

Jujubes. The jujube, sometimes 
called "Chinese Date," is gaining 
favor as a home fruit in the drier 
sections of the West. In appearance 
generally it is shaped rather like a 
plum, has a pit, and is brownish or 
reddish brown in color. It varies 
considerably in size. The fruit is 
used in a number of ways. It may 
be eaten fresh, or the dried fruits 
may be chopped and added to 
cooked cereal, to bread or cake, or 
used to make a mock mincemeat. 
The fresh fruits may be made into 
a jujube butter. Excellent sweet 
pickles may be made from the 
skinned whole fruits. The most 
satisfactory method to utilize the 
fruits, in quantity, however, is as a 
confection. (See "Canning, Pre- 
serving, and Pickling," page 196.) 
Generally speaking, the cut-up fresh 
or dried jujubes may replace dates 
or prunes in recipes calling for those 
fruits, as in cake fillings, upside- 
down cakes, and the like. 

Loquat. The loquat, one of the 
most popular of ornamental fruiting 
trees, produces delicious as well as 
beautiful golden-yellow fruit in 
huge clusters. Fruits of the better 
varieties grow as large as eggs. In 
addition to its being a delightful 



Sub-Tropical Fruits 



101 



table fruit, and one that comes on 
earlier than most other fruits, the 
loquat makes excellent jams, jellies, 
and preserves. (See Index, "Can- 
ning, Preserving, and Pickling.") 

Mangos. The mango fruits, when 
one gets them, are delicious things, 
though a novice must approach their 
flavor with some caution. Long ago 
somebody described mangos as like 
nothing so much as bunches of tow 
dipped in turpentine. But the first 
I tasted, large, somewhat bean- 
shaped, and showing a brilliant flush 
on one cheek, told another story. 
It was high-flavored and juicy, 
mingling tart with sweet, and not 
especially fibrous, though the flesh 
clung fast to the big seed. The tur- 
pentine taste, so often referred to, 
is very noticeable in poor varieties ; 
in really good ones it is absent, or 
remains only as a nutty, aromatic 
suggestion. In Cuba mangos are 
used, just before they mature, as a 
substitute for green apples in sauce 
and pies. When the ripe fruits are 
cooked they have more the texture 
and savor of stewed peaches, though 
they lose more than a peach in cook- 
ing. In California when one has 
nursed a mango tree to production, 
it will be best to let the fruit hang 
until it begins to soften, then care- 
fully peel off the unpleasantly fla- 
vored rind, cut the flesh from the 
seed, and eat at once. The richer 
ones are nice with cream and sugar. 
A good mango is very juicy, em- 
barrassingly juicy at its best one 
of those bathtub fruits. 

The peeled and seeded mango 
may be made into a distinguished 
salad. Allow half a mango for each 
person. Place on shredded lettuce, 
and fill center with any fruit mix- 
ture. Top with whipped cream and 
decorate with a cube of wine jelly. 

Papaya, or Melon Pawpaw, or 
Melon Tree. The papaya is a trop- 



ical tree fruit which has many of 
the characteristics of a melon. The 
fruit is pear-shaped; the thick rind 
is green when immature, turning 
yellow as it ripens. The flesh is 
somewhat like the muskmelon in 
texture and in its seed cavity and 
arrangement of the seeds. The pa- 
paya is ready to be eaten as soon as 
the impression of the thumb makes 
a dent in it. At this time it should 
be placed in the refrigerator. When 
chilled, it is ready to serve, as you 
would serve muskmelons. After the 
fruit is cut any unused portion may 
be returned to the refrigerator and 
kept for days. 

Passion Fruit, or Granadilla. 
The fruit of the passion vine (Pas- 
siflora edulis) is not only edible, but 
delicious indeed in flavor. About the 
size of a small hen's egg, the passion 
fruit when ripe is deep purple in 
color. Its thin, brittle, shell-like skin 
incloses a mass of small seeds cov- 
ered with a brilliant yellow pulp.. 

The juice of this fruit, which is 
on the market in bottled form, is a 
delicious addition to a number of 
fruit dishes. Sprinkled over cut-up 
fruits for salad, added to filling for 
lemon pie, added to fruit drinks, or 
used in various other ways, the dis- 
tinctive flavor always excites the 
wonder and admiration of guests. 
The juice also makes excellent jam 
and jelly. 

PASSION FRUIT PUNCH 

1 cupful of passion fruit juice 
3 cupfuls of orange juice 

1 cupful of pineapple juice 
Y^ cupful of sugar 

2 to 4 cupfuls of water 
Chipped ice 

Make syrup with sugar and water, 
let cool. Add fruit juices and chill 
with chipped ice. 



102 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



FROZEN GOLDEN SURPRISE 

4 egg yolks 

1 pint of whipped cream slightly 

sweetened 
1 cupful of passion fruit juice 

Beat yolks and add passion fruit 
juice. Cook in double boiler for 
about 2 minutes or until smooth. 
Whip cream, fold together, and 
freeze in electric refrigerator with- 
out stirring. This can be frozen in 
baking-powder cans by packing in 
ice and salt for about 4 hours. 

PASSION FRUIT FILLING 
FOR CAKE 

1 cupful of sugar 

2y 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 

legg 

1 tablespoon ful of butter 

YZ cupful of passion fruit juice 
Juice of 1 lemon 

Mix sugar and flour ; add slightly 
beaten egg. Put butter in sauce 
pan ; when melted, add mixture and 
stir quickly until it begins to thicken. 
Add passion fruit juice and lemon 
juice, and cook for just a minute 
more. Cool before spreading on 
cake. 

PASSION FRUIT ICING 
FOR CAKE 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 Y* cupf uls of powdered sugar 
2 tablespoonfuls of passion fruit 
juice 

Cream butter, add sugar, cream 
until smooth. Add a few drops of 
lemon juice if desired. Add passion 
fruit juice and spread on the warm 
(not hot) cake. Hard sauce may be 
made in the same way, adding a 
little more sugar if needed. Chill 
before serving with hot puddings. 

Sapote. The White Sapote 
("Peach of the Tropics") does well 
in any section where only light 
frosts are to be expected. It pro- 
duces, in August and September, 



large peach-like fruits, greenish yel- 
low, with large seeds like those of 
an orange. It must ripen on the tree 
and must be quite soft to be good. 
Do not eat it except during August 
and September. Use the sapote as 
you use peaches. 

Strawberry Tree. The beautiful 
deep red fruit of the ornamental 
shrub, Arbutus unedo, or Spanish 
madrone, is edible, and has a pleas- 
ant flavor. It ripens about Christ- 
mas time, and can be used much as 
strawberries or other soft fruits are 
used, as a garnish or in salads or 
general cookery. 

Melon Shrub. Edible but not 
greatly relished by most persons 
is the eggplant - shaped, yellow- 
splashed - with - violet fruit of the 
melon shrub, which tastes some- 
thing like a mixture of tomato and 
melon. It is usable in salads. 



WILD FRUITS OF THE 
WEST 

Barberries. We have three edi- 
ble varieties. The Oregon grape 
(Berberis aquifolium) is a good 
jelly maker. Many an ornamental 
hedge that blossoms with pure gold 
in spring produces a very worth- 
while crop of luscious berries in 
late summer. The berries of the 
low-growing variety are equally 
good, and are usually found in deep 
woods. The pure juice of the Ore- 
gon grape adds to fruit punch just 
that mysterious something that fruit 
punch needs badly and often lacks. 
Another barberry (B. nervosa) has 
a larger fruit, and the third (B. pin- 
nata) bears a small, pleasant-fla- 
vored berry. 

Beach Strawberry or Sea Fig. 
The good-sized fruit of Mesembry- 
anthemum aequilaterale is gathered 
along the seashore. Its flavor re- 



Wild Fruits 



103 



motely resembles that of the straw- 
berry. 

Bear Berry. Edible, at least in 
the estimation of the Indians. 

Buffalo Berry. Has small, edi- 
ble, acid fruits. 

Blackberry or Dewberry. Use 
as the tame fruit. 

Cherries. The Western choke- 
cherry resembles that of the East. 
Used for jelly or marmalade by 
mountain housewives. Most of the 
wild cherries are intensely bitter. 

Crabapple or Oregon Crabapple. 
Small, acid fruit, used for jelly by 
pioneers. 

Cranberries. Those grown in 
dry places, reddish in color, are in- 
sipid in taste. 

Currants. Found in eastern Ore- 
gon and some other sections east of 
the Coast mountains, in three usable 
varieties : yellow, red, and blue. 
Used chiefly for jelly. 

Elderberries. These grow larger 
and juicier here in the West, and 
make delicious jam or jelly to serve 
with rich meats, such as pork. Com- 
bined with wild grapes for tartness, 
they make delicious pies also. 

Gooseberries. Several varieties, 
found in northern California and in 
Oregon and Washington, produce 
tart fruits, excellent for jellies, 
jams, and pies. Those growing 
farther south are generally insipid. 
One variety, in Oregon, has large 
gummy fruits which are best washed 
in mild soapsuds and rinsed before 
making into pies. 

Grapes. The true wild grape, 
that climbs so energetically to the 
very tops of trees along the streams 
in the Coast Ranges and the Sierra 
foothills, is a delectably tart fruit 
for jelly, and well worth the trouble 
of obtaining it. 

Huckleberries. Throughout the 
Redwood region of northern Cali- 
fornia, and the Northwest states, 



wild huckleberries are so plentiful 
as to become a market crop. The 
berries, juicy and delicious, are 
much used for canning and pie- 
making. The wild huckleberries are 
of several varieties, not all of them 
plentiful enough to be of commer- 
cial value. The so-called "little 
blacks" grow high up and, of 
course, it takes many more of them 
to make a pie. The evergreen huck- 
leberry, whose shiny foliage is so 
abundantly used by florists in the 
winter, is likewise smaller, but ever 
so good. It prefers locations close 
to the ocean. Then comes the red 
huckleberry, well-known habitant of 
deep woodsy spots, whose coral-red 
drops are glimpsed like jewels as 
the sun slants through the pines. 
These are better for eating fresh 
and are seldom found in quantities 
that even encourage one to take 
them back to camp, they are so re- 
freshing and sweet for immediate 
consumption. 

Manzanita.The "little apple" of 
the Spaniards is a tiny, rather dry, 
and sub-acid fruit. It may be made 
into jelly before it is entirely ripe. 

Salal or Wintergreen Berries. 
Too sweet to be pleasant by them- 
selves, these combine deliciously 
with the Oregon grape in a mixture 
that is one-third salal and two-thirds 
Oregon grape juice. 

Salmon Berry. Native of the 
Northwest, this berry is good eaten 
fresh, but has scarcely enough fla- 
vor to warrant preserving. 

Service Berry, or "Sarvis Berry" 
as old-timers call them; a rich 
purple in color; small; edible, but 
not exciting. 

Thimble Berry. A scarlet berry, 
related to the raspberry, and good 
to eat fresh. 

Toyon. Rather better as a deco- 
ration than a food, though the In- 
dians used it as such. 



104 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



DRIED FRUITS 

Well known among the great in- 
dustries of the West is that of the 
drying of fresh fruits. Raisins, 
prunes, figs, apricots, peaches, 
pears, apples, and dates are dried, 
or dehydrated, and distributed to 
all parts of this country as well as 
abroad. Fully 95 per cent of all 
the raisins eaten by the American 
people come from the San Joaquin 
and Sacramento valleys. 

The underlying principle of dry- 
ing fruits is, of course, the evapora- 
tion of moisture to such a point that 
micro-organisms are unable to grow 
and reproduce and thus cause spoil- 
age. Fruits that contain a high 
percentage of sugar need not have 
so much water removed as those 
that are less sweet, for the concen- 
trated sugar solution itself acts as a 
preservative. About 20 to 30 per 
cent is the usual moisture content 
of commercial dried fruits. 

Drying is carried on both by 
evaporation in the sun, in the hot 
interior valleys of the Coast states, 
and by dehydration in kilns or other 
drying apparatus. Ordinarily the 
fruits are first dipped for a few 
seconds into a boiling hot lye solu- 
tion, to check or crack the skins 
so that moisture can escape more 
quickly. To prevent darkening of 
light-colored fruits, such as apples, 
peaches, pears, apricots, and some 
grapes and figs, the fruits are "sul- 
phured" that is, exposed to the 
fumes of sulphur dioxide. There 
has been some prejudice against this 
practice in the minds of many per- 
sons, but the prejudice is quite with- 
out foundation. Not only does sul- 
phuring prevent ugly discoloration, 
but it helps to protect the food 
against spoilage, and recent research 
has proved that sulphuring helps to 
conserve vitamin C. 



Dried fruits are sold both in bulk 
and in sealed packages. Great care 
is taken in the handling before, dur- 
ing, and after drying the fruits, to 
insure cleanliness. Most of the 
packaged fruits can be eaten or used 
just as they come from the package, 
without even washing. 

Prunes, figs, and dates are, of 
course, dried whole. The small seed- 
less "nectar" raisins are dried to the 
degree of jellied sweetness; "mus- 
cats" have their seeds removed and 
are "puffed" by a secret process, so 
that they are actually loose in the 
carton, instead of in a sticky, hard 
mass as the old-fashioned seeded 
raisins used to be. 

Peaches, apricots, and pears are 
halved and pits or cores removed. 
Apples are peeled, cored, and sliced. 
No longer is the objectionable fuzz 
present on dried peaches ; it is re- 
moved by whirling brushes which 
leave only a thin protecting film of 
skin. 

Helpful Hints with Dried Fruits 

Remember that dried fruits are 
largely interchangeable in recipes. 
Don't be afraid to substitute one for 
another when your judgment tells 
you it can be done. When preparing 
dried fruits for any special purpose, 
it is a good idea to cook consider- 
ably more than the amount called 
for, keep them in the refrigerator, 
and use them in various ways on 
various days ice cream, tapioca 
pudding, and so on. 

1. It is not necessary to soak 
dried fruits before cooking. Merely 
wash, cover with water, and cook, 
uncovered, until tender. 

2. In cooking dried fruits, allow 
about 2 cupfuls of water to each 
cupful of fruit. Evaporation varies 
with weather conditions. 

3. Prunes have fuller flavor and 
more interesting texture when they 



Dried Apricots 



105 



are cooked one hour with no pre- 
vious soaking, and when water is 
allowed to evaporate until it just 
half covers the prunes. 

4. Boil dried apricots one minute 
for use in fruit cakes and candies. 
For sauce, they will cook tender in 
20 to 30 minutes. 

5. Dried peaches are more attrac- 
tive when skins are removed. To 
do this, cover with water, boil 5 
minutes, slip off the skins, then boil 
fruit until tender, about 40 minutes. 

6. Boil dried peaches 5 minutes, 
remove skins, and use in fruit cakes 
or candies. 

7. About Y$ cupful of sugar for 
each cupful of dried apricots or 
peaches brings out or develops the 
best fruit flavor. Add sugar for 
last 5 minutes of cooking and it will 
not toughen the fruit. 

8. Heat the food chopper in boil- 
ing water before putting raisins 
through and they will go through 
easily. 

9. Scissors are splendid for cut- 
ting dried fruits; their appearance 
is more attractive than when 
chopped in bowl or chopper. These 
are fine for many salads, pies, cakes, 
and candies. 

10. Use a potato ricer to puree 
cooked dried fruits ; it works easily 
and quickly. If pulp is not as fine 
as desired, put through a sieve af- 
terward. 

11. Pureed and sieved dried 
fruits, especially apricots, are de- 
licious in summer drinks. 

12. In preparing puree from 
dried fruits, 1 cupful of uncooked 
dried fruit will make 1 cupful of 
cooked puree. 

13. A pinch of salt added to 
cooked dried fruits rounds out the 
flavor. 

14. Prunes cooked in left-over 
fruit juices are delicious. It may be 
necessary to add some water. 



15. To prepare raisins for ice 
cream, boil 5 minutes, drain and 
cool. 

DRIED APPLES 

"McGINTIES" 
(An Old- West recipe) 

Wash 1 pound of dried apples, 
removing bits of core and skin. 
Soak over night in water to cover. 
Next morning add enough water 
to stew. Cook until soft, then run 
through a colander and return to 
stove. Add brown sugar to make 
the fruit rich and sweet, and cook 
until thick. Remove from fire to 
cool, and add \ l /2 tablespoonfuls of 
ground cinnamon. Line a dripping- 
pan with pie crust, letting it come 
part way up the sides of the pan. 
Into this pour the apple mixture, 
having it about ^ inch thick. Dot 
with butter, cover with pie crust 
gashed lightly to let steam escape, 
press the edges together, and bake, 
putting it first into a hot oven 
(450), then reducing the heat to 
350 degrees to finish baking. When 
done, cut in diamonds or squares, 
and serve warm or cold. 

DRIED APRICOTS 

APRICOT CAKE 

Roll out a small ball of light 
dough for rolls to /4 inch in thick- 
ness and place in a buttered pie pan. 
Let rise until double in size, then 
cover the surface with cooked and 
sweetened apricots. (We like dried 
apricots best.) Pour over a thin 
custard made by cooking 1 beaten 
egg with l /2 cupful of thick sweet 
or sour cream. Sprinkle with nut- 
meg and bake in a moderate oven 
of 375 degrees for 25 minutes. 
Serve warm ; fine with coffee or 
milk to drink. 



106 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



APRICOT CHIFFON PIE 

This pie is truly delightful. The 
crust is a new one, and delicious, 
as is the filling. 

Egg-and-Cream Pie Crust 

2 cupfuls of flour 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
l /t cupful of shortening 

1 egg, beaten 

Yz cupful of table cream 

Cut or lightly rub the shortening 
into the sifted flour and salt. Add 
the cream to the beaten egg, and 
stir into the flour. Turn out on a 
lightly floured board, roll out, and 
spread on pans. Makes two shells. 
(One may be pricked and baked, 
empty, for later use.) Set one shell 
aside, unbaked, while the apricot 
filling is being made: 

Apricot Chiffon Filling 

3 eggs, yolks and whites separated 

2 tablespoonfuls of water 
Yi. cupful of sugar 

1 cupful of unsweetened apricot 
pulp 

Mix the egg yolks with the water 
in the top of a double boiler and 
cook, stirring constantly, until thick. 
Beat the egg whites stiff, and beat 
in the sugar. Combine with the hot 
custard and the apricot pulp (this 
is merely beaten and mashed with 
a fork) and mix thoroughly. Pour 
into the unbaked pastry shell, and 
bake about 30 minutes in a fairly 
hot oven (400). 

APRICOT TAPIOCA 

Y^ pound of dried apricots 

3 cupfuls of water 

3 tablespoonfuls of quick-cooking 

tapioca 

Y% teaspoonful of salt 
y* cupful of sugar 

Wash the apricots, soak in 3 cup- 
fuls of water for 1 hour, and cook 
until tender. Drain and to the juice 



add enough water to make 2 cupfuls 
of liquid. Add the tapioca and salt, 
and cook in a double boiler 15 min- 
utes or until tapioca is clear, stirring 
frequently. Add sugar and let cool. 
Force the apricots through a ricer 
or sieve, and fold the pulp (about 
1 cupful) into the tapioca mixture. 
Chill and serve with whipped cream. 
Serves six. 

APRICOT SPONGE CAKE 
DESSERT 

Bake your favorite sponge cake 
in a loaf and split it, or bake it in 
two layers. Prepare apricot puree 
as follows : 

y* pound of dried apricots 
About 1 cupful of cold water 
y-2. cupful of sugar 
Yz cupful of orange marmalade 
Few grains of salt 

Wash apricots, and cook until 
soft, and water is nearly evaporated. 
Rub through a coarse sieve and add 
remaining ingredients. Let cool. 
Put the layers of cake together 
with apricot puree, whipped cream, 
sweetened and flavored, and chopped 
toasted almonds. Cover sides of 
cake with puree and nuts, and cover 
the top with puree and whipped 
cream and sprinkle with nuts. 

APRICOT ICE CREAM 
(For rotary freezer) 

2 cupfuls of milk, scalded 

2 or 3 egg yolks 

Yi to 24 cupful of sugar 

1 cupful of apricot puree 

YT. cupful of pineapple juice 
Yi cupful of orange juice 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
1 cupful of cream, whipped 
Few grains of salt 

Beat the egg yolks, sugar, and 
salt together and add the hot milk 
slowly, stirring. Return all to 
double boiler and cook, stirring 



Dried Dates 



107 



constantly, until the mixture coats 
the spoon. Cool, and add the other 
ingredients. Pour into a 2- or 3- 
quart freezer, pack with ice and 
coarse salt, and freeze. Pack well 
and let ripen 2 or 3 hours before 
serving. Makes about 2 quarts of 
delicious, rich ice cream. 

APRICOT CREAM 

(For mechanical refrigerator) 

Rub through a sieve enough 
canned or stewed apricots to make 
1 cupful. Soak 1 teaspoonful of 
granulated gelatine in 1 tablespoon- 
f ul of cold water for 5 minutes. Set 
cup in a pan of boiling water to melt 
the gelatine, then stir into the fruit 
pulp. Fold in 1 cupful of whipped 
cream, put into freezing tray of 
refrigerator, and freeze for 3 hours 
or until mixture is firm. Any fresh 
or cooked fruit rubbed through 
sieve may be used. Add a bit of 
lemon juice to bring out the flavor. 

DRIED DATES 

WHOLE WHEAT DATE 
COOKIES 

1 cupful of white flour 

Y$ to 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 

2 teaspoonf uls of baking powder 
1 cupful of whole wheat flour 

1 to 2 cupfuls of sliced dates 
y^ cupful of nut meats (may be 

omitted) 

6 tablespoonfuls of shortening 
2 A cupful of brown sugar 
legg 

y\ cupful of milk 
y?. teaspoonful of vanilla 

Sift the white flour, salt, and 
baking powder. Add the whole 
wheat flour. Mix the dates and 
coarsely chopped nut meats through 
the flour with the finger tips. Cream 
the shortening, stir in the sugar 
gradually, then the unbeaten egg. 



Mix well, add the milk and vanilla, 
then stir in the dry ingredients. 
Drop the mixture by heaping tea- 
spoonfuls on to a well-oiled baking 
sheet. Bake in a moderate oven 
(375) for about 10 minutes. This 
recipe will make about 36 cookies. 

DATE STICKS DELICIOUS 

3 eggs 

1 cupful of granulated sugar 

1 cupful of bread flour 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder 

Dash of salt 

1 cupful of nuts (broken) 

1 cupful of dates (chopped) 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla 

Beat the eggs until light and 
slowly add the sugar, beating well. 
Sift the dry ingredients and add. 
Fold in the nuts, dates, and vanilla 
extract, and turn into a well-greased 
tin, making a shallow layer. Bake 
in a moderate oven (350) for 20 
to 25 minutes. Remove from pan 
at once and cut in bars. Roll in 
confectioners' sugar. 

DATE TORTE 

y cupful of crumbs 

Y% teaspoonful of salt 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder 

3 egg yolks 

24 cupful of sugar 

y?. teaspoonful of vanilla 

1 cupful (y 2 package) of sliced 

dates 

^2 cupful of coarsely chopped nuts 
3 egg whites 

Mix the crumbs, salt, and baking 
powder, and mix the dates and nuts 
with the crumbs, using the finger 
tips. Beat the egg yolks; continue 
beating while adding the sugar 
gradually. Add the vanilla, and stir 
in the fruit and nut mixture. Fold 
in the stiffly beaten egg whites. 
Spread the mixture over a well- 
greased shallow pan, and bake in a 
slow oven (300) for one hour, or 



108 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



until the surface will spring back 
when pressed lightly with the fin- 
ger. Cut in squares when cold. 
Serve with whipped cream or a 
small ball of vanilla ice cream. This 
recipe, strange to say, will serve 
twelve. Left-over portions may be 
stored for weeks in a tightly cov- 
ered container. 



DRIED FIGS 

FIG NUT BREAD 

2 A cupful of entire wheat flour 

\Y$ cupfuls of white flour 

4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

3 tablespoonfuls of shortening 

2 eggs 

1 cupful of milk 

YZ cupful of chopped nuts 

*/z cupful of cut dried figs 

Mix and sift dry ingredients, and 
rub in shortening. Add well-beaten 
eggs and milk, beat well, and add 
nuts and figs. Pour into an oiled 
loaf pan and let stand 25 minutes, 
then bake 45 minutes in a moderate 
oven (375). 

STUFFED FIGS 

Mash a cream cheese and moisten 
with rich cream ; season highly with 
salt, paprika, and a few grains of 
cayenne. Add Y cupful of chopped 
pecan or pistachio nut meats and 
roll mixture in balls of uniform size. 
Cut the stem ends from pressed figs, 
and cut in halves lengthwise. Place 
a ball of the cheese mixture on half 
of the figs and cover with remain- 
ing halves slightly flattened, allow- 
ing a rim of the cheese mixture to 
show around edges of figs. Serve 
with dinner salads made of head 
lettuce, romaine, escarole, French 
endive, or combination salad, dressed 
with French dressing. 



BAKED FIG PUDDING 

H cupful of butter 

1 cupful of sugar 

4 eggs, beaten separately 

2 cupfuls of breadcrumbs 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
18 dried figs, cut in small pieces 

2 oranges, cut in small pieces 
Grated rind of 1 orange 

Cream butter and sugar together 
and add beaten egg yolks. Add 
bread crumbs, baking powder, and 
salt. Add figs, orange pulp, and 
grated rind, folding in the stiffly 
beaten egg whites last. Bake in a 
buttered dish in a slow oven (325) 
for about 30 minutes. Serve hot, 
with hard sauce or other desired 
pudding sauce. 

FIG TAPIOCA 

3 tablespoonfuls of quick-cooking 

tapioca 

Y% teaspoonful of salt 
1 teaspoonful of butter 
3 cupfuls of water 
YZ pound of figs, cut fine 
1 cupful of sugar 
YZ teaspoonful of vanilla 
1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 
Grated rind of Yt lemon 

Add tapioca, salt, and butter to 
2 cupfuls of water and cook in 
double boiler 15 minutes, or until 
tapioca is clear, stirring frequently. 
Cook figs with sugar and 1 cupful 
of water 20 minutes, or until smooth 
and thickened. Add to tapioca mix- 
ture. Add vanilla, lemon juice, and 
rind., Chill; serve with whipped 
cream. Serves six. 

FIG NIBBLES 

Steam dried figs 10 or 15 min- 
utes over boiling water, just enough 
to soften them well. Roll them at 
once in powdered sugar. These 
make a delicious and healthful con- 
fection. 



Dried Prunes 



109 



CALIMYRNA FIG ROLL 

Yz pound of dried figs 

l l /2 cupfuls of warm water 

y 2 cupful of sugar 

2 slices of lemon, chopped 

Y$ cupful of vinegar 

y* teaspoonful of cinnamon 

l /4 teaspoonful of cloves 

Soak the chopped figs in warm 
water for one hour. Drain and add 
the other ingredients. Cook slowly 
until slightly thick. About 20 min- 
utes. Cool. Make your favorite 
pastry dough. Roll out ^4 mc h 
thick, spread with fig mixture, and 
roll up like jelly roll. Place in a 
greased pan, with the overlapping 
of pastry on the underside. Prick 
the top. Bake at 450 degrees for 25 
to 30 minutes.. Serve covered with : 

Foamy Sauce 

1 egg, beaten slightly 

2 A cupful of brown sugar 
y% teaspoonful of salt 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

3 tablespoonfuls of hot water 

Add sugar to beaten egg, then 
add other ingredients, and cook in 
double boiler, stirring until thick. 
Serve hot. 

DRIED PRUNES 

PRUNE NUT BREAD 

1 cupful of white flour 

% cupful of sugar 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

5 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

\y 2 cupfuls of graham flour 

1 cupful of milk 

1 cupful of chopped dried prunes 
(not freshened) 

y cupful of walnuts, chopped fine 

1 tablespoonful of melted shorten- 
ing or oil 

Mix and sift together the white 
flour, sugar, salt, and baking pow- 
der. Stir in the graham flour, add 
the milk, and beat well. Add the 



fruit, nuts, and shortening. Put into 
a greased bread pan ; allow to stand 
20 to 25 minutes in a warm place, 
then bake in a moderate oven, 350 
to 375 degrees, for 1 hour. This 
makes one large loaf. 

PRUNE CORN BREAD 

2 cupfuls of white flour 

1 cupful of cornmeal 

6 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
y^ cupful of sugar 

\y$ cupfuls of cooked prunes, 
chopped 

2 eggs, well beaten 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted short- 

ening 

Sift together the dry ingredients 
and add the prunes, beaten eggs, 
and oil or melted shortening. Pour 
into a well-greased shallow pan and 
bake in a moderate oven (375) 
from 20 to 30 minutes. 

PRUNE WHIP PIE 

1 cupful of cooked prune pulp, 

chopped fine or sieved 
1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 
y teaspoonful of salt 
% teaspoonful of cinnamon 

3 egg whites 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar 

% cupful of walnuts, chopped fine 

Heat the prune pulp to boiling, 
and add the lemon juice, salt, and 
cinnamon. Have the egg whites 
beaten stiff. Begin adding the sugar 
when the whites are fluffy, and con- 
tinue adding gradually, beating con- 
stantly, until the whites are stiff and 
jelly-like. Fold in the hot prune 
pulp and the nuts. Pour into one 
large baked pie shell, or into small 
individual shells that have been 
baked over inverted muffin pans. 
Bake in a very moderate oven, 275 
to 300 degrees, until set, which will 
be about 25 minutes. This makes 
one very large pie. 



no 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



PRUNE APPLE BETTY 

2 cupf ills of sliced apples 
1 cupful of stewed prunes 
\y* cupfuls of bread crumbs 
YZ cupful of sugar 
% teaspoon ful of cinnamon 
y* cupful of liquid from stewed 

prunes 
Vz cupful of lemon juice 

Arrange the apples, prunes, and 
crumbs in layers in a buttered bak- 
ing dish, sprinkling each layer with 
the sugar and cinnamon which have 
been mixed. Just before adding the 
top layer of crumbs, pour the prune 
liquid and lemon juice over all. Dot 
with butter, and bake in a moderate 
oven (350) until apples are tender. 
Serve hot with this hard sauce: 

Hard Sauce 

4 tablespoonfuls of butter 
24 cupful of powdered sugar 
Y-2. teaspoonful of grated lemon 
rind 

Cream the butter until soft, add 
the powdered sugar which has been 
sifted, and cream well together. 
Add the grated lemon rind, form 
into a roll, and chill. To serve, 
slice and place on the individual 
servings of the pudding. 

PRUNE PUDDING 

1 cupful of cooked prunes, pitted 

and chopped 
y* cupful of sugar 
1 cupful of chopped walnuts 
y* cupful of milk 
1 teaspoonful of vanilla 
1 tablespoonful of melted butter 
y* cupful of bread crumbs 
1 teaspoonful of baking powder 
y$ teaspoonful of salt 

Mix the ingredients in the order 
given and pour into a buttered bak- 
ing-dish. Place in a pan of hot wa- 
ter and bake slowly (at 325) about 
45 to 60 minutes until firm. Serve 
hot or cold with cream. 



PRUNE SUNSHINE PUDDING 

2 eggs, yolks and whites separated 
1 cupful of cooked prune pulp 
l /4 cupful of prune juice 
4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 
1 cupful of graham cracker 
crumbs 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla 
l / 2 cupful of pecan meats 

Beat egg yolks and add prune 
pulp, juice, and sugar. Add cracker 
crumbs, vanilla, and nut meats. Stir 
well. Pour into a buttered baking- 
dish and bake in moderate oven 
(375) for 20 to 30 minutes. Serve 
cold with whipped cream. Serves 
six. 

STANFORD HOSPITAL PRUNE 
CAKE 

This recipe makes three large lay- 
ers, 9-inch size. It can be cut in half 
for a small family, but the cake is 
so good, and keeps so well, that even 
if the full recipe is made none will 
be wasted. Steamed or heated in 
the oven and served with a hot 
sauce, it is delicious even when a 
week old. 

y* cupful of butter 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

6 eggs, yolks and whites separated 
y^. cupful of sour milk 
1 teaspoonful of salt 

1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon 

and cloves 

y^ teaspoonful of nutmeg 
254 cupfuls of chopped prunes 

3 cupfuls of flour 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
2 teaspoonfuls of soda 

y-z cupful of chopped nuts 

1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

Prepare the prunes first. Cream 
the butter and add sugar gradually, 
creaming well. Add the egg yolks, 
and beat smooth. Sift the flour, 
measure, then sift with the baking 
powder, soda, salt, and spices. Add 
these, a little at a time, alternately 



Dried Prunes 



111 



with the milk, beating smooth ; then 
add the lemon juice, prunes, and 
nuts, and lastly fold in the egg 
whites, beaten stiff. Pour into 3 
oiled and floured 9-inch layer tins 
and bake at 375 degrees for about 
30 minutes, or until done when 
tested with a toothpick. 

This cake is delicious served 
warm, the single layers cut in 
wedges and heaped with whipped 
cream, or two layers may be put 
together with whipped cream or any 
desired icing. It is good also baked 
in muffin pans. 



PRUNE LAYER CAKE 

1 cupful of cooked prunes, pitted 

and chopped 
YZ cupful of shortening 

1 cupful of sugar 

2 eggs, beaten well 

Y^ cupful of buttermilk 

2 cupfuls of flour 

2 teaspoonf uls of double-acting 

baking powder 
^2 teaspoonful of soda 
Y-2. teaspoonful of salt 
Y* teaspoonful of cinnamon 
y 2 teaspoonful of nutmeg 
1 teaspoonful of vanilla 

Cook prunes 1 hour, without pre- 
vious soaking. Remove pits and 
cut prunes in pieces, using scis- 
sors. Cream the shortening with the 
sugar, add the well-beaten eggs, and 
mix well. Sift the flour with the 
baking powder, soda, salt, and 
spices, and add to the creamed mix- 
ture alternately with the buttermilk. 
Add the prunes and vanilla and 
mix thoroughly.. Pour into 2 oiled 
layer cake pans and bake in a mod- 
erately hot oven (375) about 25 
to 30 minutes. 

A sugar and butter frosting is 
good with this cake and so is a 
lemon-flavored seven-minute icing 
made with part brown sugar. 



PRUNE MARSHMALLOW 
FREEZE 

20 marshmallows 

^ cupful of prune juice 

y* pint of whipping cream 

y^ cupful of prune pulp 

1 teaspoonful of lemon juice 

Wash prunes, soak them over 
night in water to cover, steam until 
tender, then cool, remove pits, and 
cut small. Do not sweeten. Put the 
marshmallows and prune juice over 
hot water and melt to the liquid 
stage. Add the prune pulp and 
lemon juice and allow to cool and 
stiffen slightly before combining 
with the cream, whipped stiff. 
Freeze without stirring. 



BAKED PRUNES 

Cover 1 pound of prunes with 
cold water and let stand 4 hours. 
Lift to a casserole or beanpot with 
cover; add to the water in which 
they have been soaking, ^4 cupful 
of sugar, let boil up, and skim. Pour 
over the prunes in the casserole and 
bake slowly at 300 degrees for 40 
minutes. 



CALIFORNIA PRUNE PIE 

3 cupfuls of cooked prunes, stoned 
\y 2 cupfuls of liquid in which 

prunes were cooked 
24 cupful of sugar 
3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
Juice and rind of 2 lemons 
Juice and rind of 1 orange 
1 cupful of chopped walnuts 

Add sugar and cornstarch, mixed, 
to prunes and prune juice. Cook 
until thick, stirring; remove from 
fire and add other ingredients. Bake 
between 2 crusts, or with a latticed 
top. Makes a very large pie, or two 
small ones. 



112 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



PACIFIC SALAD 

Remove the seeds from cooked 
prunes and fill cavities with peanut 
butter. Arrange 3 or 4 on a lettuce 
leaf with sections of orange freed 
from membrane. Serve with mayon- 
naise or other dressing. 



STUFFED PRUNE SALAD 

16 large dried prunes, cooked 
1 four-ounce package of cream 

cheese 
1 teaspoonful of grated orange 

rind 

Lettuce leaves 
YZ cupful of lemon French 

dressing 

Mix the cream cheese with the 
orange rind. Remove the seeds 
from the prunes and fill the cavities 
with the cheese mixture. Arrange 
on lettuce leaves on salad plates, al- 
lowing four whole prunes for each 
serving. Accompany this with lemon 
French dressing. Serves four. 



PIQUANT SALAD 

For each serving use: 

5 prunes 

5 pickled onions 

Cream cheese 

Lettuce 

French dressing 

Remove the pits from the prunes 
and replace with the pickled onions. 
On a crisp lettuce leaf, place a ball 
of cream cheese, then place 5 stuffed 
prunes around the cheese in flower 
fashion and serve with French 
dressing. 



PRUNE APPETIZERS 

Remove pits from cooked prunes, 
and replace with a strip of Ameri- 



can cheese, a pickled onion, a 
stuffed olive, or a walnut half. 
Wrap each prune in a short strip of 
bacon, "pinning" together with a 
toothpick. Cook in a hot oven or 
under the broiler until bacon is 
crisp. Insert fresh toothpicks for 
handling. Serve on a plate, or im- 
paled in a perfect grapefruit or rosy 
apple, to accompany chilled tomato 
juice, or hot consomme. 



RAISINS 

SWEET POTATOES WITH HAM 
AND RAISINS 

l l /2 pounds of sliced ham (center 

cut) 

1 cupful of raisins 
3 sweet potatoes 
Pepper 

1 cupful of brown sugar 

2 cupfuls of scalded milk 

Place ham in baking-dish. Cover 
with raisins, and with the sweet po- 
tatoes, pared and cut lengthwise. 
Sprinkle with pepper and brown 
sugar. Add milk, cover pan, and 
bake in moderate oven (350) l l /2 
hours. Last half hour remove cover 
that potatoes may brown. 



SOUR CREAM RAISIN PIE 

2 eggs 

% cupful of sugar 

1 cupful of sour cream 

1 cupful of raisins, chopped fine 

1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 

Beat the eggs and add the other 
ingredients; pour into an unbaked 
pie shell and bake for 10 minutes in 
a hot oven (450), then reduce the 
heat and finish baking, about 30 
minutes, at 350 degrees. Serve plain 
or with whipped cream. 



Dried-Fruit Combinations 



113 



SONNY BOY PIE 

3 eggs, separated 
1 cupful of sugar 
1 tablespoonful of butter 
Yz cupful of walnut kernels, 
chopped 

1 cupful of raisins, chopped 
54 teaspoonful of cloves 

Yz teaspoonful of cinnamon 

2 teaspoonf uls of vinegar 

Beat the egg yolks and add the 
sugar and butter. Beat well and add 
the other ingredients, mixing well. 
Lastly fold in the beaten whites of 
the 3 eggs, and pour into an un- 
baked pie shell. Bake 30 to 40 min- 
utes, having the oven very hot at 
first (450) for 10 minutes, then 
reducing the heat to moderate 
(350) to finish the baking. 



PLAIN RAISIN PUDDING 

2 tablespoonfuls of shortening 

% cupful of sugar 

l / 2 cupful of raisins 

% teaspoonful of salt 

24 cupful of milk 

1^2 cupfuls of pastry flour 

2 teaspoonf uls of baking powder 

Cream the shortening and sugar; 
add the raisins; mix and sift the 
flour, salt, and baking powder and 
add alternately with the milk. Beat 
until smooth, and pour into an oiled 
baking-dish. Make a caramel sauce 
as follows : 

Caramel Sauce 

\ l /2 cupfuls of brown sugar 
2 cupfuls of boiling water 

Boil together 3 minutes, pour 
over the batter, put into a moderate 
oven (375), and bake about 30 
minutes. The batter rises to the top 
and bakes a lovely golden brown. 
Serve in its own syrup, with or 
without cream. 



DRIED-FRUIT 
COMBINATIONS 

PRUNE AND APRICOT UPSIDE 
DOWN CAKE 

In a heavy skillet melt 3 table- 
spoonfuls of butter and sprinkle 
over it 1 cupful of brown sugar. 
Arrange over the bottom, halves of 
dried apricots and prunes which 
have been cooked tender without 
sweetening. Let stand in a warm 
place while you mix the cake batter, 
as follows: 

4 eggs, yolks and whites separated 
1 teaspoonful of lemon juice or 
l /2 teaspoonful of lemon extract 
1 cupful of granulated sugar 
1 teaspoonful of baking powder 

1 cupful of cake flour 

Beat the egg yolks very light, and 
add the flavoring; beat the whites 
stiff, and fold into the yolks. Add 
the sugar gradually, folding it in 
well, then gradually add the flour 
and baking powder, sifted together. 
Pour over the fruit in the skillet, 
and put into a cold oven, gradually 
increasing the heat to moderate 
(350). Bake about 50 to 60 min- 
utes. When done, turn out at once 
on a large plate, and serve warm or 
cold with whipped cream. 

HOLIDAY TIDBITS 

2 cupfuls of seedless raisins 
2 cupfuls of dried figs 

y 2 cupful of peanut butter 

Few drops of lemon juice or grated 

orange rind 
Powdered sugar 

Remove stems from and wash 
the fruit. Put through the food 
chopper. Add peanut butter and 
lemon juice or orange rind; work 
on a board which is dredged with 
sugar, until the mixture is well 
blended. Form in small balls, roll 
in sugar, and chill thoroughly. 



114 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



FRUIT FILLING FOR CAKES 

y\ cupful of dried figs, chopped 

y* cupful of chopped dates 

54 cupful of chopped raisins 

y 2 cupful of sugar 

YI cupful of boiling water 

3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 

Cut with scissors or put the fruits 
through a food chopper, mix with 
other ingredients, and cook over hot 
water until thick. Spread while hot, 
on cakes or cookies. This is very 
good to use between layers of any 
butter cake, or between cookies. In 
the latter case, place cut-out cookies 
on baking sheet, put a spoonful of 
the filling on each, cover with a 
second cookie, and bake as usual. 

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE 

FILLING AND ICING 
Make a Quick Icing, as follows: 

\ l / 2 cupfuls of sugar 

3 tablespoonfuls of cold water 

2 egg whites 

Put sugar, water, and unbeaten 
egg whites into a double boiler, 
place over boiling water, and beat 
with a rotary egg beater for 6 min- 
utes. Remove from the fire and 
beat until thick enough to spread; 
pour into bowl and add: 

y 2 cupful of chopped puffed raisins 
y 2 cupful of shredded blanched 

almonds 

2 dried figs, cut into thin strips 
6 marshmallows 

Beat until creamy and spread be- 
tween layers and on top of cake. 

FRUIT-NUT CANDY LOAF 

2 cupfuls of raisins 
1 cupful of walnuts 
54 cupful of honey or syrup 

Grind raisins and nuts through 
food chopper, add honey, and mix 
thoroughly. Pat out in flat sheets 



and pack under pressure for 24 
hours. (A breadboard or flat pan 
placed over the candy, and weighted 
down, works well.) Cut into 
squares. These may be rolled in 
powdered sugar,, or dipped into 
melted chocolate or fondant. Dried 
prunes, peaches, apricots, figs, or 
dates any or all of these may be 
added to this recipe. If very dry, 
soak the fruits in boiling water a 
few minutes to soften them before 
putting them through the grinder. 

WESTERN NUTS 

When one thinks of Western 
nuts, one thinks chiefly of walnuts 
and almonds, for they are produced 
in such quantities here on the Pa- 
cific Coast. Other varieties are now 
coming to the fore. 

ALMONDS 

Brought into California by the 
Spanish Padres in the sixteenth 
century, the almond has indeed 
flourished. Even today, where you 
find Missions you find almond 
groves marking the explorations of 
the missionary priests. 

The nuts are grown commercially 
chiefly in the interior valleys of cen- 
tral California. After gathering, 
they must be hulled, cured or dried, 
then bleached with sulphur fumes 
in steam. 

To prepare blanched almonds, 
which most recipes call for, simply 
pour boiling water over the shelled 
almonds, and let stand just until the 
brown skins can be easily slipped 
off 2 to 5 minutes should be suffi- 
cient. Drain, slip off the skins, and 
dry the nuts before using. 

SALTED ALMONDS 

Put a small amount of salad oil 
into a dripping pan, pour in the 



Chestnuts 



115 



blanched and dried almonds, and 
stir until they are well coated. There 
should be no excess oil in the pan 
just enough to coat each nut. Set 
the pan in a moderate oven and stir 
the nuts frequently until they turn 
light brown. Remove, spread on 
brown paper, and sprinkle well with 
salt. Keep in a very tightly closed 
can to preserve their crisp fresh- 
ness. 

ALMOND ROCHA CANDY 

1 pound of butter 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

1 cupful of cut almonds 

Cook over slow fire, stirring all 
the time, until mixture becomes me- 
dium brown. Then turn out into 
buttered pan, and sprinkle thickly 
with finely chopped almonds. After 
it is cool, break into pieces. One 
must be very careful not to burn it. 

ALMOND CREAM PIE 

Y$ cupful of ground roasted 

almonds 

17 rolled graham crackers 
% pound of butter 
Y$ teaspoonf ul of almond extract 
1 tablespoonful of cream 

Mix well and pat into pie plate, 
reserving 1 tablespoonful of the 
mixture before cream is added, to 
use as a garnish. Place the shell in 
a hot oven (450) for 8 minutes. 
Remove, cool partially, and fill with 
a custard mixture prepared as fol- 
lows : 

y* cupful of sugar 

1 tablespoonful of cornstarch 

2 eggs, separated 

1 pint of milk, scalded 
Few drops of vanilla and almond 
extracts 

Combine sugar, cornstarch, and 
egg yolks, add gradually to scalded 



milk in double boiler, and cook, 
stirring, until thickened. Add fla- 
voring, cool slightly, then fold in 
the egg whites, beaten stiff, and 
pour mixture into the pie shell pre- 
pared as directed. Scatter the re- 
served almond and cracker crumbs 
over the top and bake at 400 de- 
grees until slightly browned. 



PARADISE PUDDING 

34 pound of blanched almonds 

1 dozen marshmallows 

1 dozen maraschino cherries 

^ dozen macaroons 

1 package of lemon-flavored 

gelatine 

1 cupful of whipped cream 
l /4 cupful of sugar 

Cut first 4 ingredients into small 
pieces. Dissolve gelatine in 1 cupful 
of boiling water, add 1 cupful of 
cold water. When cold, and begin- 
ning to congeal, set in ice water and 
whip to consistency of whipped 
cream. Fold in other ingredients, 
turn into cake tin, and chill. To 
serve, slice with knife dipped in hot 
water. Or pile in sherbet glasses. 



CHESTNUTS 

Chestnuts are grown to a rather 
limited extent in the West, the Ital- 
ian variety being predominant. The 
fruit, in its characteristic burr coat- 
ing, ripens in October. 

Chestnuts are relished as a des- 
sert nut when freshly roasted; are 
steamed or roasted for use in sauces, 
dressings, puddings, etc.; and are 
ground into meal, for thickening 
soups or for bread-making. "Mar- 
rons" are preserved chestnuts, ei- 
ther bottled in syrup, candied, or 
dried, and are used in making vari- 
ous fancy desserts and salads. 



116 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



CHESTNUT STUFFING 

1 quart of chestnuts 

Yz cupful of bread crumbs 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of cream 

1 teaspoonful of onion, minced 
1 teaspoonful of celery, minced 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
}4 teaspoonful of pepper 

Shell and blanch the chestnuts, 
then cook in boiling water until ten- 
der. Mash and rub through a col- 
ander and mix well with the other 
ingredients. Use as stuffing for 
turkey. Thyme may be used as sea- 
soning instead of onion. 

FILBERTS 

Filberts, those delicious little 
round brown nuts with the single 
round kernel, are a great improve- 
ment over the wild hazelnut of the 
East. They are grown quite ex- 
tensively in the Northwest, and are 
delicious in any recipe calling for 
nuts. 

LYCHEE (OR LITCHEE) 

The lychee is a small tree with 
evergreen, lanceolate leaves, a na- 
tive of southern China and the Far 
Eastern tropics, but now being cul- 
tivated to a limited extent in Cali- 
fornia and Hawaii. Its fruit, sold 
as the "Chinese Nut" in Chinatown 
shops of the West, belongs with the 
fleshy fruits rather than with nuts. 
It is round, about an inch in diam- 
eter, and has a thin, chocolate- 
brown shell covered with wart-like 
protuberances. When fresh, the 
shell is compactly filled with a de- 
licious, white, jelly-like pulp, in the 
center of which there is a smooth, 
inedible, brown seed. This seed va- 
ries in size with the grade of nut, 
being very small in the best grades. 
Besides the dried nut, which is 



found in the markets, canned lychee 
nuts are obtainable at specialty gro- 
cery shops and those handling Ori- 
ental foods. These fragrantly de- 
licious canned nuts, or fruits, make 
an excellent combination with fresh 
pineapple or other fruits in salads, 
fruit cups, and the like, or they 
may be served as dessert accompa- 
nied by simple cookies or cakes. 
Chinese rice cakes or sesame-seed 
cookies are a good choice for this 
purpose. 

PECANS 

A greatly improved hickory nut 
is the pecan, with its oily, sweet, de- 
licious kernels which come out of 
the shell in such perfect halves that 
one rather dislikes to chop them. 
Pecans are grown in various locali- 
ties throughout the West. The shell 
varies from very thin to thick and 
hard. 

PECAN PATTY-CAKES 

2 eggs 

1 cupful of brown sugar 

YI cupful of flour 

54 teaspoonful of baking powder 

24 cupful of chopped pecan meats 

24 cupful of chopped dates 

Y$ teaspoonful of salt 

Beat the eggs slightly in a mixing 
bowl and add the other ingredients 
in the order given. (No milk is re- 
quired.) Fill tiny oiled muffin pans 
two-thirds full of the mixture and 
place a whole nut meat on each. 
Bake in a moderate oven (375) 
for 15 minutes. No icing is re- 
quired. 

PINE NUTS OR PINONS 

Numerous species of pines, yield- 
ing edible nuts, are found on the 
Pacific slope and in Colorado, New 
Mexico, Arizona, and Mexico. 



Walnuts 



117 



With the increased use of all nuts, 
pine nuts, often called Indian nuts, 
pinons, or, by the Mexicans, "pi- 
nones," are coming on the market 
in increasing quantities. The pine 
cones are heated until they open so 
that the nuts fall out. The size va- 
ries, the average being about half an 
inch long. The superior quality and 
unusual flavor of pine nuts have 
helped in their introduction and 
general acceptance as dessert nuts. 
The pinon pine (Pinus edulis) is 
the most important variety. 

PISTACHIO 

The pistachio, or green almond, 
grows well in the warm interior val- 
leys of the Coast states. The nuts, 
strange to say, must be processed 
before being eaten. This is done by 
soaking them in a strong salt brine ; 
then they are roasted, which causes 
the shells to open slightly. 

Since the pistachio tree is very 
hardy, and not particular as to soil 
requirements, it should be popular 
for home yard growing. The trees, 
when loaded down with their large, 
grape - like clusters of nuts, are 
strikingly beautiful. 

Pistachio nuts supply a most in- 
teresting flavor and color to can- 
dies, ice creams, and various other 
desserts in which these nuts may be 
substituted for others. 

WALNUTS 

The English or Persian walnut is 
one of the leading food products of 
the Coast, particularly southern Cal- 
ifornia. The nuts range in size from 
the enormous giant down to very 
small. Medium-sized nuts are, of 
course, most common and therefore 
most economical to buy. 

The walnuts, after being gath- 
ered, hulled, and dried or cured for 



a short time, are bleached by quick 
immersion in a chloride of lime so- 
lution, then carefully dried again. 
They are commercially graded for 
size by passing over a screen with 
square holes, the smaller nuts drop- 
ping through. The specially selected 
large nuts are branded, being passed 
through a remarkable "printing 
press" whose rubber dies imprint 
the brand name on each nut. 

Walnuts are a pleasing addition 
to a great variety of dishes. Not 
merely desserts and sweets, but 
vegetables, meats, fish, and various 
other foods combine well with them. 
Nuts are an excellent food, alkaline 
in body reaction, and rich in min- 
erals and fuel value. Persons who 
condemn nuts as indigestible usu- 
ally place the blame wrongly; the 
fault frequently lies in their own in- 
complete chewing of the nuts. 

FUDGE BROWNIES 

YZ cupful of butter 

2 cupfuls of sugar 

4 eggs 

4 squares of chocolate, melted 

\V$ cupfuls of cake flour 

% teaspoonful of salt 

Y$ cupful of evaporated milk 

diluted with 
% cupful of water 
2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla 
\y 2 cupfuls of chopped nuts 

Cream butter, add sugar gradu- 
ally, and cream well. Add well- 
beaten eggs and melted chocolate. 
Sift flour, then measure.. Resift 
with salt. Add flour mixture alter- 
nately with the diluted milk. Add 
vanilla and nut meats with last few 
stirs. Spread mixture % m ch thick 
in a square cake pan lined with 
paper. Bake 15 minutes in a me- 
dium slow oven (300). Cut in 
squares while warm and sprinkle 
with powdered sugar. The recipe 
makes 48 cakes, 1^2 inches square. 



118 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



SIMPLICITY NUT BREAD 

1 egg, beaten 

YZ cupful of sugar 

ly? cupfuls of sweet milk 

1 cupful of walnuts 

324 cupfuls of flour 

4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Mix in the order given. Put into 
buttered pan, let rise YT. hour, and 
bake in a slow oven (325) 1 hour. 

SPICE DROP COOKIES 

2 /3 cupful of butter 

2 cupfuls of brown sugar (or 

brown and white mixed) 

2 eggs, beaten 

24 cupful of sour milk 
24 teaspoonful of soda 

3 cupfuls of flour 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 

1 teaspoonful of nutmeg 

2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon 
1 teaspoonful of cloves 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla 
^4 teaspoonful of salt 
1 cupful of chopped raisins 
Y* cupful of chopped nuts 

Cream fat and sugar; add eggs. 
Add other ingredients and mix well. 
Drop by spoonfuls on oiled cookie 
sheet, and bake at 400 degrees. 
When half-baked, dust sugar and 
cinnamon on top, and finish baking. 
These stay moist a long time, and 
are ever so good. 

"BEST EVER" NUT LOAF CAKE 

Y-2. cupful of butter 
1 cupful of sugar 
YI cupful of milk 
124 cupfuls of cake flour 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
3 egg whites 

YI teaspoonful of vanilla 
24 cupful of nut meats 

Cream the butter and sugar thor- 
oughly together. Sift the flour, 
measure, add baking powder, and 
sift together 3 times. Add half of 



this, alternately with the milk, to 
the creamed butter and sugar, and 
beat thoroughly for a minute or 
two. Add the remaining flour mixed 
with the nut meats (black walnuts 
are lovely to use) and beat hard 
again for 3 minutes. Fold in gently 
the beaten whites and vanilla, and 
bake slowly (350) 50 minutes in 
an 8-inch square pan. Ice with 1-2-3 
Frosting, the recipe for which is 
given below. 

1-2-3 Frosting 

1 cupful of sugar 

2 egg whites 

3 tablespoon fuls of cold water 

Stir lightly together in double 
boiler. Beat with rotary beater for 
6 minutes, then remove from boiling 
water and beat 2 minutes. Pile on 
cake and sprinkle with nuts. 



RAISIN NUT CAKE 

Yz cupful of shortening 

1 cupful of sugar 

2 eggs 

2 cupfuls of flour 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
YA teaspoonful of salt 

24 cupful of milk 

1 cupful of seedless raisins, 

chopped 
1 cupful of nuts, chopped 

Cream J^ cupful of shortening 
and add the sugar. Beat eggs and 
add, with no half-hearted beating, 
all these ingredients together. Sift 
2 cupfuls of flour with 3 teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, YZ teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and add to mixture alter- 
nately with 24 cupful of milk. Add 
the chopped seedless raisins and 
nuts. Bake in a square pan in a 
moderate oven (375). Frost with 
white boiled icing and decorate with 
nut meats. Cut in squares. Use this 
cake while it is quite fresh. 



Walnuts 



119 



NUT CREAM FILLING 

154 cupfuls of sugar (white or 

brown) 

1 cupful of cream (sweet or sour) 
Yz teaspoonful of vanilla 
1 cupful of nuts 

Boil to very soft ball stage, beat 
hard, and spread. 

NUT SPONGE CAKE 

1 cupful of cake flour, sifted 

1 cupful of walnut meats, broken, 

mixed with flour 
S eggs, separated 
1 cupful of sugar 
4 tablespoonfuls of water 
Juice of 1 small or ^ large lemon 
Pinch of salt 

Prepare the flour and nuts. Beat 
the egg whites stiff. Boil sugar and 
water together until it spins a 
thread. Pour over egg whites and 
beat 15 minutes. Beat yolks with 
rotary beater until thick and lemon 
colored. Add salt and lemon juice. 
Combine with whites, and fold in 
flour and nuts. Bake in angel-cake 
pan, in cool oven (325), for 45 
minutes. Very nice with tea or ice 
cream. 

MEXICAN ORANGE CANDY 

1 cupful of granulated sugar 
\ l /2 cupfuls of rich sweet milk 

2 cupfuls of sugar 
Grated rind of 2 oranges 
Pinch of salt 

l /2 cupful of butter 
1 cupful of nut meats (walnuts or 
pecans) 

Melt the first cupful of sugar in 
a large kettle while the milk is scald- 
ing in a double boiler. When the 
sugar is melted to a rich yellow, add 
the hot milk all at once, stirring. It 
will boil up quickly, so be sure to 
use a good-sized kettle. Add the 2 
cupfuls of sugar to this mixture, 
stirring until dissolved, and cook 



until it forms an almost hard ball in 
water (238). Just before it is 
done add the grated orange rind, the 
salt, butter, and nut meats. Beat 
until creamy and pour on a buttered 
platter to cool. This candy is as 
delicious as it is unusual. 



SPINACH NUT RING 

3 cupfuls of cooked spinach 

3 eggs 

y 2 cupful of bread crumbs 

Y$ cupful of walnuts or pecans 

34 cupful of bacon fat 

Salt and pepper 

Chop the spinach and add the 
beaten eggs and other ingredients 
in the order given. Turn into an 
oiled ring mold and bake in a mod- 
erately hot oven (375) about 30 
minutes, or until firm.. Turn out 
on a hot chop-plate or platter, and 
fill the center with buttered potato 
balls with which chopped pimientos 
have been mixed. Serve all very 
hot. 



WALNUT- POTATO SALAD 

2 cupfuls of boiled potatoes, cubed 
1 cupful of walnut meats 

1 small onion, minced 

2 tablespoonfuls of parsley, minced 
^2 teaspoonful of salt 

2 small sweet pickles, diced 

Mayonnaise 

Lettuce leaves 

Have the boiled potatoes thor- 
oughly cold. Cut them in small 
cubes. Have the walnut meats 
chopped fairly coarse. Mix the in- 
gredients lightly, adding sufficient 
mayonnaise to moisten. (Half may- 
onnaise and half boiled dressing 
make an interesting mixture.) Serve 
on crisp lettuce leaves with very 
small cheese wafers, and garnish 
each serving with a California 
poppy or a nasturtium. 



120 



Western Fruits and Nuts 



VEAL AND NUT ROLL 

1 large slice of round of veal, cut 

thin 

2 tablespoonfuls of parsley, 

chopped fine 
1 carrot, sliced 
YZ cupful of walnut kernels, 

chopped fine 
1 stalk of celery, chopped 

1 sprig of parsley 

2 bay leaves 

Select a large, thin, even cut of 
veal round, free from fat and bone. 
Spread it out on a meat board, wipe 
with a damp cloth, then cover with 
a layer of chopped parsley and the 
chopped walnuts. Sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, then roll length- 
wise into a tight roll, tying securely 
with twine at every two inches of 
its length, and roll lightly in flour. 
In the bottom of a casserole or stew 
pan arrange the sliced carrot, the 
diced celery, the parsley, and bay 
leaves, and place the veal roll on top 
of the vegetables. Pour in hot wa- 
ter to the depth of an inch, add a 
little salt, then cover closely and 
bake in a moderate oven (350) 



for an hour and a half.. When done, 
remove the roll, cut and remove the 
strings, and serve hot with gravy; 
or allow the meat to cool, then slice 
it and serve on a bed of lettuce and 
celery, having the slices of meat al- 
ternate with slices of raw tomato. 
Dress with mayonnaise. 

MAPLE-NUT SWEET 
POTATOES 

Have you ever tried using maple- 
flavored syrup in making candied 
sweet potatoes, adding a generous 
quantity of nutmeats walnuts, pe- 
cans, or almonds for an extra-de- 
licious dish? A cateress who is 
noted for this glorified vegetable 
cooks down the syrup slowly with 
the nut meats until it almost reaches 
the candy stage, then pours it over 
the sweet potatoes, which have been 
boiled and peeled, cut in thick slices, 
and dotted with butter. The pans of 
potatoes are then tucked into a slow 
oven to await their serving. The 
time may be long or short without 
destroying their goodness. 




Whether you catch them with rod and reel or 
spade! or whether you buy them in the market, 
Western fish and sea food in general are of infinite 
variety and year-round availability. From the static 
abalone to the flashing mountain trout, from the 
subterranean geoduck to the air-minded flying fish, 
our shores and streams and ocean deeps abound in 
startling sorts of edible fish. It is a wise Western 
homemaker who tries new kinds frequently, in- 
stead of clinging to one or two old, familiar, and 
more or less tiresome varieties of fish. 

Wild game, too, is assuredly to be reckoned with 
in Western cookery. Venison, and wild ducks and 
geese, and rabbits, and even such remarkable foods 
as bear meat and mountain sheep are available at 
certain times and places. It's fun to get acquainted 
gastronomically as well as otherwise with the wild 
life of the West. 



122 



Western Fish and Came 



WESTERN FISH 

Few persons need any argument 
for eating fish other than its good- 
ness of flavor. Aside from that, 
however, there are excellent reasons 
for consuming sea food, week in and 
week out, the year round. Fish is 
an easily digested protein food. In 
addition, most sea foods contain 

g)odly amounts of vitamins A and 
sardines and herring being par- 
ticularly rich in them and all con- 
tain iodine, which is so necessary in 
our diet in order to prevent goiter. 

Types of Western Fish 

How to handle this big subject of 
Western fish and sea food in order 
that it may be truly useful to every 
Western homemaker is a real prob- 
lem. We have shellfish that crawl 
on many legs, others that pull them- 
selves along by means of one soft 
muscular foot, and still others that 
swim by opening and closing their 
shells. We have shellfish varying in 
size from the tiny Olympia oyster 
to the giant clam known as the geo- 
duck ("gooey - duck") ; common 
shellfish with two shells, the aba- 
lone with one, and the squid or ink- 
fish, with its shell inside. We have 
frogs that jump. As for ordinary 
"swimming" fish, they include game 
fish and others ; fish found in fresh 
water, others in salt water, and some 
salmon and bass for example 
that inhabit either or both. Then 
we have canned fish, frozen fish, 
smoked, salt, kippered, and pickled 
fish. How shall we approach this 
welter of confusion ? 

Well, after all, in the cooking of 
fish we are limited to just a few 
general ways of preparing the food. 
Baking, boiling, broiling, and frying 
are the fundamental methods we use 
over and over. We need never lack 



variety, however, for there are doz- 
ens of changes we can ring in on 
these general methods. Baked fish : 
plain (whole or in slices) ; stuffed; 
smothered in tomato sauce; or 
planked. Boiled or steamed fish: 
hot with any one of a number of 
sauces; or cold, plain or masked in 
gelatine, and served with an ap- 
propriate sauce. Fried fish: simply 
rolled in seasoned cornmeal or flour ; 
or dipped in salted milk and then in 
flour ; or dipped in seasoned egg and 
then in crumbs ; or dipped in fritter 
batter; and fried in shallow fat or 
in deep fat. 

Given any fish or sea food to start 
with, cooked or raw, we may pre- 
pare cocktails and salads ; chowders, 
bisques, broths; creamed fish, cas- 
seroles, or pies ; croquettes, fritters, 
fish balls ; souffles and timbales ; and 
sauces without number. Let's dis- 
cuss first these "pattern" recipes 
which can be adapted to the prep- 
aration of practically any fish, then 
go on to describe briefly those typi- 
cally Western fish that require spe- 
cial understanding and treatment, 
giving particular or additional reci- 
pes or directions where they are 
needed. For further details, Cali- 
fornians will be interested in secur- 
ing a copy of the book, Five Hun- 
dred Ways to Cook California Sea 
Food, compiled by the State Fish 
Exchange, California Department 
of Agriculture, and obtainable free 
by writing to that address in Sacra- 
mento. 

Tips on Fish Cookery 

Remember that frozen fish may 
be used exactly as fresh fish, and 
that canned fish may be substituted 
in any recipe calling for boiled or 
cooked fish. 

For baking fish, allow usually 15 
minutes to the pound. 



Western Fish 



123 



To test whether fish is done or 
not (either fried or baked), insert 
a fork between bone and flesh. 
When it can be slipped in easily the 
fish is done. 

The use of slices of bacon on the 
rack beneath fish in the baking pan 
makes it easier to remove to platter. 
Some persons use a piece of cheese- 
cloth, oiled, in place of the bacon. 
One can easily lift the fish to the 
platter by means of this. 

Never soak fish in water. Wash 
it quickly, or wipe it with a cloth 
wrung out of cold water, but do not 
spoil its flavor by extensive washing 
and soaking. When keeping a 
dressed fish for a day or two it is a 
good idea to put a folded paper 
towel inside the fish to absorb all 
moisture. 

Adding prepared mustard to the 
batter in which fish is dipped pre- 
paratory to frying is a good touch. 

If fish bought is solid flesh, al- 
low J3 pound for each person to be 
served. If whole fish (bones, head, 
tail, etc.) is included, allow y 2 
pound or more per person. 

To scale fish, use the back of a 
knife or a fish sealer. Begin at tail 
and work backward. To clean, cut 
off head at gills, slit belly length- 
wise, and pull out entrails. To skin 
fish, dip in boiling water for a min- 
ute or so. 

Wash hands in strong salt water 
after handling fish, to remove odor. 

Use kitchen scissors to remove 
heads, tails, and fins of fish, and to 
slit the skin for quick cleaning. 

Cooking in a pressure cooker 
softens bones of any fish if con- 
tinued long enough. This is why 
bones of canned salmon, sardines, 
etc., are tender. 

Rich, fat-fleshed fish are best for 
broiling. Lean fish need fat added, 
that is, they are best fried, or baked 
or boiled and served with rich sauce. 



General Directions for Cooking 
Fish 

Baking, boiling (or steaming), 
broiling, and frying, either in deep 
or shallow fat, are the fundamental 
methods of preparing fish for the 
table. These directions, subject to 
individual judgment and taste as are 
all recipes, will work well for any 
one of the varieties of fish listed. 

Pan-Fried Fish 

Clean and wipe dry whole small 
fish or slices or fillets of larger ones. 
Salt and pepper well and roll in 
flour; then cook in a small amount 
of butter or other shortening in a 
heavy frying pan until brown on 
both sides, turning with a pancake 
turner. Fish is done when it flakes 
from the bone easily when tested 
with a fork. 

Fish Fried in Deep Fat 

Lean-fleshed fish are best fried, 
or pan fried. After cleaning, cut 
fish into serving-size pieces if large. 
Wipe each piece dry, sprinkle well 
with salt and pepper, then dip in 
beaten egg (1 egg, beaten slightly 
with 2 tablespoonfuls of water), 
covering fish completely. Then roll 
in fine bread crumbs or cracker 
crumbs, or in cornmeal if desired, 
though the meal does not give so 
pretty a color or so tender a crust 
to the fried fish. If possible, let fish 
stand at room temperature for 15 
or 20 minutes after egging and 
crumbing, in order to form a good 
crust. Have plenty of fat (hard fat 
or oil) in a deep kettle; heat it to 
390 degrees, or until a small cube 
of bread will brown nicely while 
you count to 40. The cold fish will 
cool the fat down immediately, so 
have it hot but not smoking when 
you begin. Drop in not more than 
three or four pieces of fish at one 



124 



Western Fish and Came 



time, to avoid cooling too much. 
When fish rises to the top and is 
golden brown, it is done. (Three to 
five minutes will be enough for all 
except very large, thick pieces.) 
Lift out carefully, drain a moment 
on crumpled paper, and serve at 
once with a garnish. 

In camp, or at home, fresh trout 
rolled in prepared pancake flour and 
fried in hot fat just deep enough to 
cover the fish about 2 inches is a 
delightful experience. The fat may 
be strained into a can, and used over 
and over during fish season. 

Spencer Oven Method of Fish 
Cookery 

1. Place pieces of fish, ready to 
dip, at the left. 

2. Next a flat dish of milk (di- 
luted evaporated milk or fresh milk 
may be used), adding 1 tablespoon- 
ful of salt to each cupful of milk. 
The difference between a "poor 
fish" and an appetizing fish is fre- 
quently only a difference of salt 
and it needs to be added before 
cooking. 

3. A pan of fine sifted bread 
crumbs (blanket the fish well). 

4. A baking pan lined sides and 
bottom with wet parchment paper. 
(Oil the paper also if no sauce is 
to be used.) 

5. Cup containing oil or melted 
butter (at extreme right).. Pass the 
fish from left to right, keeping the 
left hand for wet work, and the 
right for the dry crumbs. Sprinkle 
the fish with the oil or butter when 
in the pan. Bread crumbs must be 
used, not crackers or flour ; a table- 
spoonful of oil or butter to a pound 
of fish is enough. A very hot oven 
is essential 500 to 550 degrees (the 
latter for a large amount of fish). 
Time from 10 to 15 minutes. 

Any desired sauce may be used 



for basting the fish, and a great va- 
riety of appetizing results produced, 
using savory tomato or milk combi- 
nations, or baking with a well-sea- 
soned dressing on top of the fillets. 

Method of Preparing Planked 
Fish 

A medium-sized fish is split open 
and the backbone removed, but the 
fish ordinarily is not cut entirely in 
two. A well seasoned oak plank 
(that is, one that has been rubbed 
with oil and heated gently in the 
oven several times before being used 
for fish) is again thoroughly oiled 
and heated very hot. The fish is then 
spread wide open on the plank, skin 
side down, and baked in a moderate 
oven (375) for about 20 minutes. 
Too hot an oven is likely to set the 
plank on fire. Then the fish is well 
salted and peppered, and basted 
with melted butter, and returned to 
the oven for another 10 to 20 min- 
utes, or until tender. Garnish with 
parsley, lemon slices or lemon bas- 
kets of tartar sauce, and sliced to- 
matoes, and serve at once on the 
plank. 

Garnishes for Fish and Fish 
Dishes 

Quartered lemons and parsley sprigs 
always ! 

Broiled bacon, with trout or other 
game fish. 

Green onions, chopped, including 
green tops. 

Chopped chives, shallots, or leeks. 

Tomatoes, sliced or quartered, or 
tiny ones hollowed out and stuffed 
with mayonnaise or tartar sauce. 

Fennel, chopped or quartered. 

Cucumbers, sliced and dressed with 
French dressing ; or hollowed out 
to make cups or boats to hold tar- 
tar sauce. 

Lemon baskets filled with tartar 
sauce. 



Western Fish 



125 



Small whole beets, pickled, or slices 

cut in fancy shapes. 
Celery tops with leaves. 
Green pepper or red pimiento strips. 
Radish roses. 
Water cress and other salad greens. 

Good Foods to Serve with Fish 

Potatoes, mashed, creamed, escal- 
loped, hash browned, French 
fried, or new potatoes in parsley 
butter. 

Rice, plain boiled, served with but- 
ter. 

Macaroni, spaghetti, etc., with toma- 
to sauce. 

Peas or String Beans, buttered. 

Asparagus, buttered. 

Spinach, fresh cooked, with butter 
and a dash of vinegar or lemon 
juice. 

Corn, on the cob, or creamed. 

Tomatoes, fresh sliced, marinated in 
French dressing ; stewed or escal- 
loped; tomato gelatine salad. 

Relishes of all sorts: celery, rad- 
ishes, ripe and green olives, let- 
tuce, endive, watercress, chicory, 
coleslaw. 

Corn Bread or Bran Muffins. 

FRIED FISH PACK TRIP 
STYLE 

Select as many small fish of uni- 
form size as you desire, or one large 
fish. Bass is particularly fine. Clean 
and allow to chill until firm. Sprin- 
kle generously with salt and pepper 
and dredge with flour. Cut salt pork 
into cubes and fry out in a deep 
heavy skillet, allowing plenty of 
fryings. Add the fish and fry slowly, 
turning until each side is browned. 
A few slices of onion in the fryings 
are good. Add J/ inch of thick cream 
or undiluted canned milk to the pan, 
cover closely, and simmer until the 
cream disappears. Serve hot with 
slices of lemon or tartar sauce. 



Small new potatoes boiled in their 
jackets, then peeled and rolled in 
melted butter and paprika, may ac- 
company this fish dinner. 

FISH FRIED IN BATTER 

Clean and cut fish in serving-size 
pieces. Wipe dry, and sprinkle well 
with salt and pepper. Make a fritter 
batter as follows : 

2 eggs, yolks and whites separated 
1 teaspoonf ul of prepared mustard 

(maybe omitted) 
1 tablespoonf ul of melted butter 
y 2 cupful of milk 
1 cupful of flour 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 
1 teaspoonful of baking powder 

Beat the egg yolks well and add 
the butter and mustard. Sift flour, 
salt, and baking powder, and add 
alternately with the milk, beating 
well. Fold in the egg whites, beaten 
stiff. Dip the pieces of fish one by 
one in the batter, and drop at once 
into hot fat (390), frying only 
three or four at a time. Drain, and 
serve at once, garnished well. 

STUFFING FOR BAKED FISH 

Soften bread crumbs in a small 
quantity of milk. Squeeze out, and 
season well to taste with salt, pep- 
per, minced parsley, minced onion, 
chopped pickles or celery (or a lit- 
tle celery seed), and melted butter. 
If wished, mushrooms previously 
cooked in butter may be added. For 
a large fish, oyster stuffing is grand 
indeed. Simply add whole or 
chopped fresh oysters and their 
liquor to a well-seasoned stuffing 
made as directed. 

A dry stuffing for fish is good 
also. For this, use soft bread 
crumbs ; do not soak them, but use 
melted butter (about J4 cupful for 
1 cupful of crumbs) for the only 
moistening. 



126 



Western Fish and Came 



BAKED FISH 

Fat-meated varieties of fish may 
be baked without basting, as they 
are oily enough, and their skins 
stretch without bursting. Lean- 
fleshed fish should be gashed in sev- 
eral places, and strips of bacon or 
salt pork laid over them while bak- 
ing. The fish may be tied to form a 
semicircle, or skewered into the 
shape of a letter "S" if desired. A 
3- to 5-pound fish makes a good 
size for a small family, as any left- 
overs can be used in numerous ways. 

Rub fish generously inside and 
out with salt, and sprinkle with pep- 
per. Fill, not too full, with any de- 
sired simple stuffing, sew up with a 
string, and put into a baking-pan. 
Use a rack if you have one. In any 
case, it is smart to lay the fish on a 
piece of oiled cheesecloth, so that it 
may be lifted and transferred to a 
hot platter more easily, without 
breaking it. Bake, uncovered, in a 
hot oven (450), allowing 10 to 15 
minutes to the pound. Baste occa- 
sionally while cooking, using a little 
hot water mixed with the drippings 
in the pan, or with oil or melted but- 
ter. If it is desired to pass the whole 
fish at the table, protect the tail from 
burning by wrapping in waxed 
paper or covering with mashed 
potatoes which of course are re- 
moved before serving. 



BAKED FISH SLICES 

Arrange slices in a buttered bak- 
ing-pan, sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per and lemon juice, and dot with 
butter. Bake, uncovered, in a fairly 
hot oven (450) for 20 to 30 min- 
utes, or until tender. 

Any number of variations on this 
method are possible, no detailed 
recipes being necessary. A layer of 
fresh vegetables peas, diced car- 



rots and celery, etc. may be spread 
in the pan and the slices arranged 
over them, before baking. Or a 
well-seasoned tomato sauce may be 
poured over the slices. Or a stuf- 
fing such as is used in whole baked 
fish may be placed under or over 
the fish slices, or between slices, 
sandwich fashion. And so on and 
on! 

BOILED FISH 

Lean varieties of fish are better 
for boiling than the fat varieties that 
go to pieces easily. Tie whole fish 
(cleaned) or slices in cheesecloth, 
or better yet, arrange on a pie tin 
and tie up the whole thing loosely 
in cheesecloth, and lower into a 
kettle containing just enough boil- 
ing liquid to cover the fish. 

This liquid may be milk and 
water, half and half; or it may be 
water flavored with 1 teaspoonful 
of salt and 1 tablespoonful of lemon 
or vinegar for each quart, and if de- 
sired, 1 bay leaf, 1 clove, 1 sprig of 
parsley, 1 onion, 1 carrot, and 1 
stalk of celery, cut into strips. It is 
a good idea to add fish bones and 
bits of clean skin to the water, to 
make a richer stock. This stock, 
strained, makes a good foundation 
for various sauces to serve with 
boiled fish. 



BROILED FISH 

Clean fish and wipe dry. Broil 
small fish without splitting, leaving 
on heads and tails if desired. Split 
medium-sized fish down the back, 
removing bones. Cut large fish into 
slices or fillets. 

Roll the pieces of fish in oil or 
melted fat, sprinkle liberally with 
salt and pepper, and broil until a 
good golden brown. A double 
broiler, or toaster, facilitates turn- 



Western Fish 



127 



ing the fish without breaking it ; or 
it may be broiled nicely in a shallow 
iron pan which has been lightly 
greased, or on a special broiling plat- 
ter (not oven glass), and a cake 
turner used for turning it. If fish 
is not thoroughly cooked by the time 
it is brown, remove rack to a lower 
position, or put fish into a hot oven 
to finish. 

When broiling a fish that has been 
split, turn the flesh side to the heat 
first, then the skin side. 



FISH TIMBALES 

These custard-like entrees are de- 
sirable for using leftover cooked or 
canned fish. They are easy to make 
and to serve, for they are not so 
perishable as souffles ordinarily are. 

1 cupful of liquid (fish stock or 

milk) 

Y-2. cupful of soft white bread 
crumbs 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 cupful of cooked fish, boned and 

flaked 

Seasonings : salt, black pepper, pa- 
prika, onion juice, and lemon 
juice to taste 

2 eggs, beaten slightly (not fluffy) 

Cook the liquid with the crumbs 
and butter for a few minutes, until 
crumbs are practically dissolved and 
mixture is smooth. Remove from 
fire, add the fish, and season very 
carefully to taste just right. Stir in 
the slightly beaten eggs, pour into 
buttered molds or custard cups, set 
in a pan of hot water, and bake in a 
moderate oven (350) for 30 to 40 
minutes, or until firm when tested 
by inserting a knife blade. Bake 
low down in the oven to avoid 
browning the tops of the timbales. 
To serve, let stand a few minutes, 
then loosen edges with a knife and 
turn out on hot plates. Pour a little 



sauce (Bechamel or brown mush- 
room sauce for example) over each 
timbale, and serve at once. 

DEPENDABLE FISH SOUFFLE 

1 cupful of diced celery 

1 cupful of boiling water 

y* cupful of milk 

4 tablespoonfuls of quick-cooking 

tapioca 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
Dash of pepper 
3 eggs 
1 cupful of flaked tuna or other 

cooked or canned fish 

Combine these ingredients except 
the eggs and fish in double boiler, 
and cook over hot water for 15 min- 
utes, or until tapioca is clear, stir- 
ring frequently. Cool. Add the egg 
yolks, beaten thick and lemon 
colored, 1 cupful of flaked tuna or 
other cooked or canned fish, then 
the egg whites, beaten stiff, folded 
in last. Turn into an oiled baking- 
dish, place in pan of hot water (hav- 
ing water about an inch deep around 
pan), and bake in a moderate oven 
(350) 45 to 55 minutes.. Serves six. 
This holds up well for serving. 

ESCALLOPED FISH 

Arrange in a buttered baking-dish 
alternate layers of flaked cooked 
fish, and coarse cracker crumbs or 
cooked rice, seasoning each layer 
well. Pour a medium-thick cream 
sauce over all, top with buttered 
crumbs, and bake until browned 
nicely. 

CROQUETTES, FRITTERS, 

BALLS, PATTIES, OR 

CAKES 

See recipes under abalone and 
clams, which may be adapted easily 
to any cooked or canned fish. 



128 



Western Fish and Came 



FISH SALADS 

No particular recipes are neces- 
sary for combining delicious salads 
of cooked or canned fish, but a few 
suggestions may be helpful. 

Cucumbers, celery, and tomatoes 
combine particularly well with fish; 
in fact, almost any greens or vege- 
tables may be used. Marinating in 
sharp French dressing improves 
most fish for salads ; mayonnaise or 
boiled dressing, or both mixed to- 
gether, may be added as discretion 
dictates. Cooked potatoes and hard- 
cooked eggs, cubed, make good ad- 
ditions to fish salads. For salad 
dressing recipes, see Index. 

FISH CIOPPINO 

It is well to set six o'clock for a 
"fish chopin," and invite only those 
who care for shell fish. It is a very 
messy dinner to say the least, so use 
a paper tablecloth and provide 
aprons for all of the guests, includ- 
ing the men. Here is an old-time, 
well-tried recipe to serve twelve 
persons. 

6 pounds of striped bass 
2 small red codfish 
6 pounds of cockles 
10 pounds of mussels (if obtain- 
able) 

4 large cooked crabs 
1 pound of picked shrimps 
4 dozen clams opened and cleaned 

Clean bass and codfish and cut 
into pieces for serving. Allow cock- 
les and mussels to stand in fresh 
cold water for 1 hour to remove 
sand, and scrub thoroughly. Cut 
crabs in serving pieces and crack 
legs with a mallet. Place fish in 
layers in a large covered roasting 
pan. First some pieces of fish, then 
a few cockles and mussels in their 
shells, a few pieces of crab in the 
shells, some shrimps, some clams 
with the juice, then another layer of 



bass, and so on. Cover with the pre- 
pared sauce, put the lid on and bake 
for 1 hour in a moderate oven 
(350). I serve this in soup plates 
from the kitchen, being careful to 
select some of each kind of fish and 
to have a generous helping of sauce 
over it. Now for the sauce which 
should be prepared the previous day : 

2 large onions 

1 small clove of garlic 

1 small head of celery 

1/2. cupful of olive oil 

34 pound of dried mushrooms 

3 No. 2Y-2. cans of tomatoes 
Parsley, minced 

Bay leaf 

A few pepper corns 

Sherry wine seasoning to taste 

Salt and pepper 

Cut onions, garlic, and celery in 
small pieces and brown slowly in the 
oil in a large skillet, stirring con- 
tinuously. Pour hot water to cover 
over the dried mushrooms and let 
stand ^2 hour. Add the tomatoes to 
the onions, with the chopped pars- 
ley, bay leaf, and a few pepper corns. 
Remove the mushrooms from the 
water and add them, allowing any 
sediment to settle in the cup, after 
which carefully add the water to the 
sauce. Cook slowly for 2 or 3 hours, 
adding water when necessary, and 
stirring frequently. Some of the 
sherry seasoning is salted so care 
must be used in adding that to taste. 
Season well with salt and pepper. 
With this dish serve a green salad 
with a well-seasoned French dress- 
ing, also French bread cut nearly 
through and brushed with butter 
which has previously been heated 
with a generous supply of chopped 
garlic, the whole heated in a paper 
bag in the oven. When it comes to 
dessert, sweets do not seem very 
acceptable, and one usually finds 
crisp crackers and Roquefort cheese 
quite satisfactory with the coffee. 



Abalone 



129 



CIOPPINO 

(Simpler form) 

For this dish use a firm, solid 
fish, such as large sole, striped bass, 
or rock cod, but do not use halibut 
or salmon. Fry one finely chopped 
onion until a golden brown in just 
enough oil to prevent it from burn- 
ing. Add a little chopped parsley 
and garlic and let cook slowly for 
5 minutes. For 2 pounds of fish 
allow 4 tomatoes or the equivalent 
in stewed tomatoes. Chop the to- 
matoes and add to the first mixture, 
then add the fish and stir gently to 
mix the ingredients. Season with 
salt and pepper to taste, and cook 
over a moderate fire 20 to 25 min- 
utes without stirring. 

For Crab Cioppino use half fish 
and half crab, or one-third each of 
crab, fish, and shrimps. 

ABALONE 

Truly a Western product is the 
red or pink abalone, for it is found 
only along the Pacific Coast, par- 
ticularly in the vicinity of Monte- 
rey. Very little is known about it, 
except that it hatches from an egg, 
that it does not remain in one spot 
but moves about, and that it is ex- 
ceedingly good to eat when rightly 
prepared. 

This peculiar mollusk has only 
one large, strong shell, rough and 
brown outside, but a beautiful 
mother-of-pearl within. The large 
muscular foot, by which it moves 
about or holds itself by tremendous 
pressure to the rocks, forms prac- 
tically the entire contents of the 
shell. 

For commercial purposes, divers 
procure the abalones. They can be 
obtained without diving, if you 
know where and when to go after 
them. People who live near the 



shore delight in initiating tender- 
feet into the mysteries of abalone- 
catching. Abalone are in season all 
year, except January 15 to March 
15, inclusive. The limit is 10 per 
day or 20 per week, and the legal 
size, a minimum of 7 inches in diam- 
eter. They are obtainable only at 
the minus tides, beginning with a 
minus 0.6 tide. A strong iron bar 
is necessary to pry the creature off 
the rocks to which it clings so stub- 
bornly ; a leaf from an old automo- 
bile spring is excellent to use. One 
thing you can depend on that just 
as you are about to pry the abalone 
loose, a big wave will deluge you, 
and probably knock you flat! 

Abalone as found in the fish mar- 
kets has been pounded and neatly 
sliced, and is ready for cooking. If 
you procure it in the shell, how- 
ever, you will need to use a blunt 
knife or flat iron bar, in order not 
to break the flesh in taking it out. 
Next, give the abalone a good rap 
on the top, or "head"; this relaxes 
it and makes it lie flat so that it can 
be trimmed more easily. 

Trim off all the dark parts, leav- 
ing a piece of white solid flesh. 
Now comes the particular part. 
It must be pounded until soft, but 
not broken up. To do this place 
the abalone on a solid foundation, 
either block or board, and with a 
wooden mallet or any other blunt 
article heavy enough to use for 
pounding (a milk bottle will do!) 
hit them lightly. It will take some 
time before they become soft. If 
one prefers, the meat may be sliced 
and the slices pounded separately. 
Abalone may be sliced crosswise, to 
form flat "steaks" as they are called, 
or up and down in narrow pieces. 
They go farther when sliced up and 
down. Always give the slices a few 
taps for good measure; they can- 
not be too soft. One pound of aba- 



130 



Western Fish and Came 



lone will serve four persons; the 
meat is very rich. 

ABALONE CHOWDER 

Trim the abalone as for frying, 
and pound, though it is not neces- 
sary to have them so soft. Put 2 
abalones (or about 1 pound, as pur- 
chased) into 4 cupfuls of salted 
water, and cook gently until ten- 
der about an hour. Take out, 
grind through the food chopper, 
and put back into the liquid. Dice 
4 slices of bacon, and fry crisp. 
Brown 2 onions, minced, in the fat, 
and add to the abalone liquid; peel 
and cube 2 large potatoes and add 
them also with some chopped pars- 
ley. If the liquid has boiled low, 
add enough more water to cook the 
potatoes. Just before serving the 
chowder add 1 can of evaporated 
milk, or 1 pint of fresh milk may 
be used, a generous piece of butter, 
and 4 crackers crushed fine; heat 
up quickly and serve at once. 

FRIED ABALONE 

Dip slices in beaten egg and then 
in cracker crumbs, and fry quickly 
in oil. Have the oil hot, and brown 
on both sides (not longer than 1^ 
to 2 minutes to each side), turning 
the slices only once. 

BOILED ABALONE 

Prepare abalone; boil whole for 
1 hour over slow fire. Add salt to 
taste 15 minutes before taking from 
fire. The meat can be served cold, 
sliced, or used in various other 
ways. This makes excellent sand- 
wiches. If any juice is left after 
boiling, a good soup can be made by 
adding rich milk, salt and pepper, 
Y-Z cupful of hot mashed or diced 
potatoes, and a little chopped pars- 
ley. 



ABALONE FRITTERS 

Pound and prepare enough aba- 
lone to make 2 cupfuls. Put through 
the food chopper raw and add 

2 eggs, well beaten 

2 tablespoonfuls of milk 

1 teaspoonful of A-l or Worces- 
tershire sauce 

Dash of nutmeg 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder 

y 2 cupful of fine cracker crumbs 

Mix well, make into small cakes, 
and fry in butter. Serve with slices 
of lemon. 

BAKED ABALONE, ANO 
NEUVO STYLE 

Pound and fry 2 abalones as di- 
rected for fried abalone; then put 
into an ovenglass baking-dish and 
cover with the following sauce: 

1 cupful of stock (if you have it; 
otherwise put 1 cupful of 
water into the pan in which 
the abalone were fried) 

1 small onion cut very fine 

1 large clove of garlic 

1 teaspoonful of prepared mustard 

1/2 cupful of tomato juice or 
tomato sauce 

Juice of 1 lemon 

Salt and pepper to taste 

Chopped parsley 

Combine ingredients and cook for 
5 minutes. Pour over the slices, put 
into a very slow oven (300), and 
bake for 1 hour. This may be pre- 
pared ahead of time for serving, and 
then reheated. Serve in the baking- 
dish. 



ALASKA BLACK COD 

(Sablefish) 

Along the northern Pacific Coast, 
the Alaska black cod is plentiful all 
year round. Fresh, it is excellent 
baked, and is good also boiled or 



Bass 



131 



broiled. It is frequently smoked or 
kippered; recipes for preparing it 
after such treatment will be found 
under "Smoked, Salt, and Kippered 
Fish." 



ALBACORE 

A game fish, sometimes called 
long-fin tuna, found along southern 
California coast. Usually runs about 
3 feet long, and weighs 15 to 20 
pounds. Meat is somewhat coarser 
than tuna, but is rich in fat, of fine 
flavor. Good all year, but most abun- 
dant from January to August. Ways 
of serving: Baked (best) ; broiled; 
fish loaf; salad. 



ANCHOVIES 

The California anchovy is a small 
fish, 6 or 7 inches long, abundant 
along Pacific Coast from Lower 
California to Alaska. Flesh is dark, 
rich and oily, something like sar- 
dines.. Good the year round, but 
most abundant in August and Sep- 
tember. Ways of serving : Broiled ; 
fried (best) ; or in salad, with hard- 
cooked eggs and sour French dress- 
ing. 

BARRACUDA 

Most popular of southern Cali- 
fornia fish, found from Santa Bar- 
bara south. Usually weighs 5 to 12 
pounds, but sometimes runs larger. 
Has white meat, free from small 
bones. Caught every month in the 
year, but most abundant from Janu- 
ary to June, inclusive. Ways of 
serving : Best baked, whole if small, 
or in slices or fillets if large ; Bouil- 
labaisse (New Orleans chowder, 
made with lobster and oysters) ; 
broiled; fried, with brown butter 
and herbs. 



BASS 

Two varieties of sea bass the 
black and the white are common 
to the Pacific Coast, in addition to 
the familiar favorite striped bass. 

Black sea bass (sometimes called 
jew fish) is one of our largest food 
fishes, reaching a weight of 500 
pounds. Its flesh is white and flaky, 
and of excellent flavor. It is most 
abundant off the coast of southern 
California, particularly around Santa 
Catalina Island. The largest catch 
is from January to June, inclusive. 

White sea bass, also found abun- 
dantly in southern California waters, 
averages from 20 to 50 pounds in 
weight. It also has firm, white flesh 
of good flavor. Both of these varie- 
ties being extremely large, the flesh 
is available in the markets in slices 
and fillets or in pieces correspond- 
ing to roasts, and is prepared in the 
usual ways. 

Striped bass, a favorite food and 
game fish in the San Francisco Bay 
area particularly, runs from 2 to 50 
pounds in weight, the usual market 
size being 3 to 5 pounds. It is a 
trimly built, silvery colored fish, 
with seven or eight dark stripes 
running lengthwise on each side. 
The season for striped bass in Cali- 
fornia runs from August 1 to No- 
vember 1, and from November 15 
to May 15. They are most abundant 
in April and May. 

Being relatively small, striped 
bass may be baked whole with stuff- 
ing, or in a sauce, or it may be 
boiled, broiled, fried, or planked. It 
is also much used in preparing Ciop- 
pino (see pages 128-129). 

BAKED STRIPED BASS WITH 
TOMATO SAUCE 

Melt 4 tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a sauce pan. Add 1 sliced onion and 
a sliced carrot and simmer until the 



132 



Western Fish and Came 



vegetables are tender. Add 1 can of 
sliced mushrooms, Y* can of chop- 
ped pimiento, 4 peeled and sliced 
tomatoes, and 1 cupful of tomato 
sauce. Season with salt and pepper. 
Let this boil for 10 minutes. Ar- 
range 4 fillets of bass in a buttered 
baking-dish. Sprinkle them with salt 
and pepper. Pour over the sauce. 
Bake until the fish is tender. 

BLUE FISH 

See Rockfish. 

BOCCACIO 

See Rockfish. 

BONITO 

Dark-fleshed fish, 8 to 16 pounds 
in weight, found off southern Cali- 
fornia coast.. Ways of serving: 
Baked in tomato sauce; broiled; 
loaf ; or salad. 

CATFISH 

While not a native Western fish, 
the catfish is a favorite fresh-water 
game fish in many sections. Both 
white catfish and bullheads are 
caught. They are very good eating, 
fried and served with browned but- 
ter, parsley, and lemon. 

CHILIPEPPER 

See Rockfish. 

CLAMS 

Clams of many sizes and varieties 
are found along the entire Pacific 
Coast. While it is fun to eat them 
cooked and served in one of the 
numerous good restaurants that 
specialize in sea food, it is even 
more fun to go after them in per- 



son, and eat them, fresh cooked, 
direct from ocean to consumer. 

Digging for clams of any variety 
requires a shovel or potato fork, a 
bucket, and a pair of rubber boots, 
unless one cares to go barefoot. The 
clams can be located by the small 
holes in the mud or sand, made by 
the siphon, or neck. The technique is 
to dig down beside the hole and turn 
out the clam carefully, for some 
varieties have very tender shells. 

Early spring and fall produce the 
best clams. They are very good also 
during midwinter, but the exceed- 
ingly high tides make clam digging 
practically impossible. By many old 
timers, November and March are 
considered the best clam months, 
especially November. 

While there is no general "closed 
season," there is a closed season on 
Pismo clams. Clams are of poor 
quality and sometimes actually pois- 
onous during the propagating sea- 
son, from June through August. 
For this reason quarantines may be 
established by local boards of 
health. When a quarantine is placed 
on clams and mussels, do not take 
any chances. 

A recent report (February, 1933) 
from the Hooper Foundation of the 
University of California points out 
that the poison in both clams and 
mussels is confined almost entirely 
to the intestines of the bivalve. If 
the intestines (the black portion) 
are always discarded, and the clams 
thoroughly washed before cooking, 
the danger of contracting poison 
from this shellfish would be les- 
sened greatly. For safety, never 
use the whole clam, even in making 
chowder. 

With clams, like oysters, the shell 
opens when the animal dies, mak- 
ing it easy to discard bad ones, 
either at the beach or the market. 
A dead clam is dangerous food. 



Clams 



133 



To Free Clams of Grit 
If obtained the day before they 
are to be used, put the clams into a 
tub of fresh or sea water, and 
sprinkle corn meal liberally over the 
top of the water. Let them stand 
over night. The clams will eat the 
cornmeal, and empty their stomachs 
of grit and sand they may contain. 

To Open and Prepare Clams 

Open shells by slipping a knife 
between the shells at one end and 
bringing it around to the other end, 
thus cutting the muscle that holds 
the shells together. They may also 
be opened by steaming over boiling 
water, or dropped for a minute into 
boiling water. If they are not to be 
used immediately, remove from 
shells at once and drop into cold 
water; then chill on ice until used. 
This prevents toughening from 
over-cooking. Cut off the neck or 
siphon of large clams, peel off the 
skin, and put the meat through the 
grinder, as the muscle is very tough. 
Remove and discard the dark parts 
(stomach and intestines) and the 
clam is ready for use. The liquor 
from steamed fresh clams, strained 
and seasoned delicately with salt 
only, makes a delicious hot broth. 
A paper-thin slice of lime or lemon 
may be placed in the cup. 

Varieties of Western Clams 

Sometimes local names may be 
given to varieties of clams found in 
certain sections of the shore. In 
general, the following clams are 
recognized up and down the coast. 

Soft-Shell, or Mud Clams. 
Found buried about a foot deep in 
beds in the mud flats along bays 
and rivers at low tide, usually in 
large quantities. Excellent for 
chowder. Split and peel the neck 
before using. 



Hard-Shell, or Quahaug Clams. 
Found buried only a few inches be- 
low the surface, in sandy or grav- 
elly formations, in same localities 
as mud clams. When found in large 
quantities, a rake is best to use in 
gathering them. This is the variety 
most commonly used for clam 
bakes, as it is not necessary to clean 
them before baking. The clams are 
baked in their shells in the camp 
fire, or embedded in a thick layer 
of seaweed spread over hot stones, 
covered with more seaweed and 
heavy sacks or sail cloth, and 
steamed for 2 or 3 hours. Oysters, 
potatoes in their skins, and green 
corn in the husk (silks and imper- 
fections removed first, of course) 
may be roasted with the Quahaugs. 

Cockles. There are a number of 
varieties of edible cockles, found 
from Puget Sound south. Cockles 
belong to the clam family but have 
heart-shaped shells. Hard - shell 
cockles are particularly good in 
chowder and soups. They are too 
scarce to be valuable commercially. 

Beach, Butter, Washington, or 
Moneyshell Clams. Small clams, 
tender and rich in flavor. 

Purple Clams. Not shipped com- 
mercially, but highly prized by 
campers and picnickers along the 
beach, as they are of very good 
quality. 

Razor or Sea Clams. Razor 
clams, so named because of their 
very sharp edges which demand 
some care in handling, are among 
the choicest of Western clams. 
These good-sized bivalves, common 
to the Pacific Northwest, are found 
buried about a foot deep, on wide, 
sandy beaches at extremely low tide. 
It is not necessary to skin the necks. 
Delicious baked, fried, or in chow- 
der. They are canned commercially 
in Alaska and Northwestern states. 



134 



Western Fish and Came 



Jack-Knife Clams. Found from 
Santa Barbara south; fair quality; 
about the size of razor clams. 

Pismo Clams. Pismo clams, 
good-sized bivalves with exceed- 
ingly long, muscular necks, are 
found at various places along the 
California coast, notably at Pismo 
Beach. Average weight of a Pismo 
clam is 1^2 pounds. The neck is 
skinned and ground for use in 
chowder. 

Gaper or Horse Clams. These 
big clams, exceedingly common on 
the Northwest beaches, lie buried 
about 6 inches deep in the soft sand, 
covered with water except at very 
low tide, the tips of their siphons 
just above the surface of the silt. 
They are edible, and make excellent 
chowder, but are inferior in flavor 
to the butter clams and others. 

Empire Clams. Coos Bay, Ore- 
gon, is noted among other things as 
the haunt of the huge Empire clams, 
which sometimes attain a weight of 
4 or 5 pounds. They can be located 
by large holes in the sand. The 
Empires have very large necks 
which can be made into steaks by 
scraping off the rough outer skin 
(scalding will aid in this procedure) 
and splitting. Pound the flesh thor- 
oughly, dip the pieces into seasoned 
flour or corn meal, and fry until 
crisply brown and tender. The ten- 
der flesh of the body can be cut in 
slices or strips, dipped in seasoned 
egg, in batter, or in egg and crumbs, 
and fried in deep or shallow fat. 

Geoducks. A native of the Pa- 
cific Coast, the geoduck is found 
in favorable locations from British 
Columbia as far south as San Diego. 
The wide, silty beaches of Puget 
Sound, however, furnish conditions 
best suited to its propagation and 
growth. 

This giant clam, weighing up- 
ward of six pounds, resembles a 



legless, headless duck, the shells 
forming the wings and the wrinkled, 
mottled skin representing the down 
on the neck and breast. It lies bur- 
ied two to three feet deep in the 
mud of the tide flats, submerged in 
water except for an hour or two 
daily at extremely low tide. The 
tip of the long, giraffe-like neck or 
siphon reaches well above the silt, 
and this is the guide to the hunter 
in locating the wary creature. 

A large hole must be dug around 
the geoduck burrow, to avoid crush- 
ing the tender shell or mutilating 
the exposed flesh for the geoduck's 
shell is not large enough to hold all 
its neck and flesh, which conse- 
quently bulges out around the edges 
like the contents of an overstuffed 
bag. 

The open season now extends the 
year round, the bag limit being three 
"ducks" per person per day. 

To cook geoduck, wash well in 
cold water, then pour boiling water 
over it, cut away the shell, and strip 
off the skin from the body and 
siphon. Cut the thick, tender, 
creamy flesh in slices or "steaks" 
and fry as razor clams are fried, 
but longer and more slowly, for 
geoduck meat is tougher and must 
be cooked longer. Some cooks pound 
the slices before cooking. The re- 
sulting food has a rich yet delicate 
flavor all its own. The tough neck 
meat must be put through a grinder, 
after which it makes excellent 
chowder. 



CLAM RECIPES 

Any clam may be used in the fol- 
lowing recipes, quantities being 
judged according to the size of the 
clams. One large Empire clam or 
geoduck will serve an entire family, 
one good-sized razor clam is likely 



Clam Recipes 



135 



to be a full meal for one person; 
while of the smaller varieties, three 
to five clams per person are not too 
large an allowance. 

PACIFIC COAST CLAM 
CHOWDER 

1 pint of clams 

3 medium-sized potatoes 

2 slices of bacon 
1 small onion 

Salt and pepper to taste 

1 tall can of evaporated milk 

Grind the clam necks in a meat 
grinder, cover them with water, and 
bring to boiling. Simmer gently un- 
til tender. Meanwhile, dice or slice 
the potatoes, cover with a quart of 
water, and boil until done. Add the 
cooked clam necks and the un- 
cooked soft bodies and heat to- 
gether. Cut bacon and onion fine 
and brown in a frying-pan; add to 
the potatoes and clams ; add the 
evaporated milk and seasonings to 
taste, boil a minute or so, and re- 
move from fire. This chowder is a 
meal in itself and usually proves 
sufficient for six or eight persons, 
for either lunch or supper. 

OREGON CLAM BISQUE 

2 dozen large, fresh clams 
1 cupful of water 

1 small onion 

A sprig of parsley 

2 whole cloves 

2 allspice berries 
A speck of mace 

1 quart of milk 

2 tablespoonf uls of cornstarch 

Wash the clams, and put into a 
large sauce pan with the cupful of 
water. Cover closely, put over the 
heat, and let steam until the shells 
open easily. Remove from shells, 
and chop the clams, onion, and 
parsley very fine. Simmer half an 



hour in the broth in which the 
clams were steamed, adding the 
spices. Scald the milk and thicken 
with the cornstarch, which has been 
mixed with a little cold milk or 
water. Boil ten minutes, stirring, 
then strain the clam mixture into it. 
Serve in bouillon cups, topping each 
cupful with a spoonful of whipped 
cream. Serve crackers or popped 
corn with it. 



MINCED CLAM SOUP 

1 quart of milk 

1 medium-sized can of minced 

clams 

1 tablespoonful of butter 
Salt and pepper 

Heat the milk in sauce pan or 
double boiler, and add clams, but- 
ter, salt, and pepper. Heat clams 
through and serve at once, as the 
clams will toughen if cooked too 
long. If desired, a large tablespoon- 
ful of whipped cream placed on top 
of each plate of soup adds very 
much to its flavor as well as ap- 
pearance. 



BAKED CLAMS 

1 pint of clams 
Several slices of bacon 
Crackers, rolled fine 

1 pint of milk 

2 eggs, well beaten 
Salt and pepper to taste 

Grind necks, add milk and bodies, 
and stir in cracker crumbs until the 
mixture is thick enough to drop 
from a spoon. Add beaten eggs. 
(More eggs may be added if a 
richer mixture is desired; 6 or 7 
eggs make a very fine, tender dish.) 
Pour into a buttered baking-pan, 
lay strips of bacon across the top, 
and bake in a moderate oven (375) 
about 30 minutes, or until firm. 



136 



Western Fish and Came 



CLAM CAKES 

1 pint of raw clams 

2 cupfuls of flour 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
2 eggs, slightly beaten 
Milk and clam liquor, mixed 

Run the clams through the meat- 
grinder. Make a batter of the flour, 
baking powder, eggs, and enough 
liquid to drop easily from the spoon. 
Combine the batter and the minced 
clams, and drop by spoonfuls into 
hot frying-pan that has been well 
greased with bacon drippings. Fry 
brown on both sides, drain on 
heated brown paper, and serve with 
quartered lemons. 

FRIED CLAMS 

Make the same mixture as for 
baked clams, drop by spoonfuls into 
a hot frying-pan containing hot oil 
or butter, and brown well on each 
side. 

FRIED RAZOR CLAMS 

To clean, scald live clams until 
the shells open; pour off hot water 
and immediately cover with cold 
water. Remove from shells, cut off 
the neck, and cut the black part out 
of the body, using a sharp paring 
knife and being careful not to tear 
the clam apart. Remove gills; split 
down the front and on through the 
digger, leaving the back intact. Re- 
move all remaining black. Be very 
careful not to break the thin, skin- 
like lining which holds the muscles 
together. Drain and lay flat. To 
fry, beat an egg, add an equal quan- 
tity of milk, and salt and pepper to 
taste. Dip the dry clam in egg and 
milk mixture and roll in flour. Have 
ready a skillet of cooking oil or fat 
about an inch deep, very hot 
(390) ; put in the clams, one or 
two at a time. When brown on one 



side turn and brown the other side. 
Clams fried in this manner are de- 
licious and very tender. Keep the 
cooking oil at an even high temper- 
ature. 

FRENCH MINCED CLAM LOAF 

1 loaf of bread 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

2 small cans of minced sea clams, or 

2 cupfuls of chopped fresh clams 

Cut a thick slice lengthwise from 
the top of a loaf of bread. Scoop 
out the inside crumbs leaving a 
shell. Saute the crumbs carefully 
in butter. Make a thin white sauce, 
using the clam liquor for part of 
the liquid, add the clams and the 
sauted crumbs, and fill the shell. 
Bake 15 or 20 minutes, or until 
lightly toasted, in a very hot oven 
(475) and serve. Makes six serv- 
ings. 

CLAM SOUFFLE 

1 medium-sized can of minced 

clams, drained 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
6 tablespoonfuls of flour 

2 cupfuls of liquid (clam liquor 

plus milk to make correct 

quantity) 

1 small onion, minced fine 
1/2 a green pepper, minced fine 
1 pimiento 
YI cupful of cracker crumbs 

3 eggs, yolks and whites separated 
Y^ teaspoonful of baking powder 
Salt, pepper, and cayenne 

Make a white sauce of the butter, 
flour, and liquid, and add to it the 
onion, pepper, pimiento, and cracker 
crumbs. Stir in the slightly beaten 
egg yolks and the drained clams, 
and season well to taste. Fold in the 
egg whites which have been beaten 
stiff, the baking powder having been 
added while beating. Pour into a 
buttered baking-dish and bake in a 
moderate oven (350) for 30 to 40 



Crabs 



137 



minutes, or until firm when touched. 
Serve at once though this souffle 
will not fall badly, even when cold. 

CODFISH 

The codfish caught off California 
is the cultus cod, a green fish with 
brownish spots, from one to four 
feet in length. Its flesh, which is 
very desirable for food, is a light 
bluish-green color. Cod is most 
abundant in spring and fall March 
and April, September and October. 
Ways of serving: Baked; boiled, 
with egg sauce ; broiled ; and chow- 
der. 

Salt codfish is put up by packers 
here on the West Coast. Directions 
for preparing it are found a little 
farther on, under "Salt, Smoked, 
and Kippered Fish." 

CRABS 

The Dungeness crab of the Pa- 
cific Coast is much larger than the 
blue crabs found along the Atlantic 
Coast and in the Gulf of Mexico. 
Canned crab is usually the meat of 
the Japanese crab, a giant shellfish 
sometimes measuring as much as 
ten feet in leg spread. 

The crab has an interesting life 
cycle. Starting out microscopic in 
size and gradually becoming visible, 
it alternately passes through a hard- 
shell stage during which it fattens 
but does not grow ; a "peeler" when 
it has grown a soft shell under its 
hard shell; a "buster" when it 
breaks out of its hard shell ; and a 
"soft shell" when it has only its soft 
new skin. This stage, which lasts only 
a day, is the crab's growing time, 
during which it increases greatly in 
size. A new hard shell is formed 
quickly by a lime secretion from 
the crab's body. 

It is interesting to watch boys 



crab-fishing off the piers and wharfs 
along the coast. A collapsible bas- 
ket woven of light cord on iron 
rings is baited with fish, liver, or 
almost any meat, which is firmly 
tied into the bottom of the net. The 
basket, on the end of a light rope, 
is lowered to the floor of the bay, 
where it flattens so that hungry 
crabs may crawl into it. When 
pulled up, it may have half a dozen 
crabs of assorted sizes. The small 
ones are thrown back into the water. 
All uncooked crabs should be 
vigorously alive when purchased, or 
the meat will not be good. There is 
nothing else quite so good as crabs 
plunged direct from the cold sea 
water into the boiling pot, eaten 
right on the scene of action the 
beach. Incidentally, an old square 
five-gallon oil can (entirely free 
from oil, of course) with the top 
cut out and a broom handle nailed 
across the center for a handle makes 
a perfect cooker for crabs, ears of 
corn, or potatoes in their jackets, at 
a beach picnic. It is one kettle that 
need never be scrubbed outside, no 
matter how black it becomes. 

How to Cook Live Crabs 

Throw the live crabs head first 
into rapidly boiling salted water 
(sea water may be used when cook- 
ing them at the beach), and boil 15 
to 25 minutes longer. When done, 
if to be served hot as "cracked 
crab," crack the shells and claws 
with a sharp tap of a hammer, and 
serve stacked on a platter, accom- 
panied by mayonnaise and French 
or wholewheat bread, and very lit- 
tle else. A mighty good menu for 
dinner at a beach cottage after a 
swim is: fresh corn chowder, and 
salt wafers ; cracked crab with may- 
onnaise; vegetable salad; whole- 
wheat bread; coffee; and sliced 
fruit with date bars for dessert. If 



138 



Western Fish and Came 



wanted cold, plunge hot crabs im- 
mediately into cold water, to cool 
quickly. 

When cold, break off the apron, 
or tail ; then taking the crab in both 
hands, with thumbs at the tail end, 
pull the upper and lower shells apart. 
Discard all the waxy and spongy 
substance between the halves of the 
body and at each side. The edible 
part of the crab lies in the two com- 
pact pieces remaining, and, better 
yet, in the large front claws or feel- 
ers. The latter may be broken with 
a hammer, or with an ordinary nut 
cracker. The meat is delicious 
merely served very cold, with mayon- 
naise ; or it may be made into salads 
or cocktails, or used in any one of 
a number of delicious made dishes. 

CRAB LOUIS 

This West Coast specialty is justly 
famous the country over. To make 
it, arrange lettuce leaves around the 
inside of a salad bowl, with a few 
shredded leaves on the bottom. Put 
crab meat on top of the shredded 
lettuce and a few sliced hard-cooked 
eggs and chopped chives on top of 
the crab meat. In another bowl mix 

y* cupful of French dressing 
Y-2. cupful of chili sauce 
2 tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise 
1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire 

sauce 
Salt and pepper to taste 

Pour over the salad, and serve 
very cold. 

CRAB COCKTAIL 

Crab legs, taken out of the shells 
without breaking, make an exciting 
cocktail. Arrange 3 or 4 of the legs 
on end in a deep cocktail glass, add 
chopped celery, a few blanched al- 
monds cut in strips, and perhaps a 
few whole asparagus tips. Pour 
into the glass a perfectly flavored, 



creamy cocktail sauce (see Index 
for Cocktail Sauces). Flaked crab 
meat may of course be used instead 
of the whole legs. 

TOMATO CRAB SALAD 

4 large tomatoes 

Y-Z cupful of diced celery 

y^ cupful of diced cucumber 

1 green pepper 

y 2 cupful of crab meat 

Y^ cupful of mayonnaise 

Remove the skins and cut a slice 
from the stem end of each tomato. 
With a spoon or curved knife hol- 
low out the inside to form a shell. 
Dice the tomato pulp with celery, 
cucumber, and what remains of the 
green pepper after four %-mch 
rings have been cut from the center 
section. Mix the diced vegetables 
with the crab meat and J^ cupful of 
the mayonnaise. More salt and pep- 
per may be needed, depending on 
the seasoning of the salad dressing. 
Refill the tomato shells, and garnish 
the top of each with mayonnaise 
and a green pepper ring. Serves 
four persons. Bridge luncheon host- 
esses will find a stuffed tomato crab 
salad a delightful main dish, to be 
accompanied by hot bread of some 
sort, and coffee. 

MOLDED CRAB MEAT 

\y 2 cupfuls of flaked crab meat, 

canned or fresh 
l / 2 tablespoonful each of dry 

mustard and salt 
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 
2 whole eggs or yolks of 3 eggs 
1 cupful of sour cream 
% cupful of vinegar 
1 tablespoonful of gelatine soaked 

in 
l /4 cupful of cold water 

In a sauce pan or double boiler 
mix together the mustard, salt, 
sugar, and unbeaten eggs or egg 
yolks. Stir until smooth. Add cream 



Crabs 



139 



and vinegar, and cook until it is 
smooth and thickened and the cus- 
tard coats the spoon. Add soaked 
gelatine and stir; when gelatine is 
dissolved, strain the custard over 
the crab meat. ( Cold boiled salmon, 
halibut, lobster, or chicken may be 
substituted.) Turn into a mold and 
chill. At serving time unmold and 
garnish with lettuce and ripe toma- 
toes cut into eighths and dressed 
with French dressing. Serve with 

Cucumber Sauce 

lj^ cupfuls of sour or sweet cream 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 
A little cayenne 

3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 

1 cucumber, pared, chopped, and 
chilled 

Beat cream until stiff, and add sea- 
sonings, vinegar, and chopped cucum- 
ber. (Press all the water from the cu- 
cumber before adding to the cream.) 

This molded crab meat is attrac- 
tive when a ring mold is used. Serve 
on a round platter or plate, larger 
by several inches than the mold; 
around the edges put heart leaves of 
lettuce and tomatoes. In the, center 
pile the cucumber sauce. This is a 
cool, attractive dish to serve at a 
late evening supper, or as the main 
dish for luncheon on a warm day. 

CRAB NOODLE RING 

1 package of noodles 

4 eggs, separated 

Salt, pepper, and cayenne 
1 cupful of grated cheese 
1 cupful of milk 
Creamed crab or chicken 

Cook the noodles in boiling salted 
water until tender. Drain and let 
cool. Beat the egg yolks; add salt, 
pepper, a dash of cayenne, and the 
milk. Mix well and add to the 
cooled noodles. Then add the grated 
cheese and mix well. Lastly, fold in 
the egg whites, beaten stiff. Butter 



a ring mold, pour the noodle mix- 
ture into it, set the ring mold into a 
pan with about an inch of hot water 
in the bottom of it, and put into a 
moderate oven (375). Bake ^ 40 
minutes, or until a knife thrust into 
the mixture comes out clean. Loosen 
the edges and turn out carefully on 
a large platter or chop plate, and fill 
the center with creamed crab meat. 
Garnish with parsley and serve. 

CRAB LEGS, JOSEPHINE 

Roll the crab legs in beaten egg 
and fine bread crumbs, and fry in 
a pan with butter, or in deep hot 
fat (390). Serve arranged in a 
ring on a round platter, with sliced 
fresh mushrooms fried in butter in 
center. Garnish with parsley. 

DEVILED CRAB 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
1 cupful of evaporated milk 
Dash of cayenne 
1 teaspoonful of paprika 

1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire 

sauce 

2 egg- yolks 

2 cupfuls of crab meat 

y 2 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

2 tablespoonfuls of salted cooking 

sherry 

2 /3 cupful of buttered crumbs 
6 slices of lemon 

Melt the butter; stir in the flour 
and the milk. Add the seasonings 
and cook until thickened, stirring 
constantly. Add the slightly beaten 
egg yolks and the crab meat, and 
cook 3 minutes, then stir in the 
lemon juice and sherry. Put the 
mixture into cleaned crab shells, 
shell bakers, or oiled ramekins, and 
cover with buttered crumbs. Place 
a slice of lemon, sprinkled with pa- 
prika, on top of each serving, and 
bake in a hot oven (450) until 
brown. This recipe serves six. 



140 



Western Fish and Came 



CRAB FLAKE LORENZO 

y^ pound of butter 

3 tablespoonfuls of minced celery 

2 tablespoonfuls of minced shallots 
or mild green onions 

2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour 

% cupful of cream 

Salt to taste 

Dash of Tabasco sauce 

1 teaspoonful of A-l or Worces- 
tershire sauce 

1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 

2 tablespoonfuls of minced 

anchovies 

1 pound of crab flakes 

6 slices of bread cut J^-inch thick, 
trimmed, toasted, buttered, 
and spread with anchovy paste 

Grated Italian cheese 

Melt the butter and brown in it 
the celery, shallots, and parsley. Stir 
in the flour and add the cream and 
seasonings. Stir in the minced an- 
chovies and the crab, and heat thor- 
oughly. Heap on the toast, sprinkle 
with cheese, and garnish with cross 
strips of anchovies. Bake in a hot 
oven (375) until browned slightly. 
Serve at once. 



ECREVISSES 

The Ecrevisse is a fresh-water 
crawfish, found in various streams 
in California and Utah. It is cooked 
exactly as crabs or lobsters, being 
plunged alive into boiling salted 
water. After cooking and removing 
shell, the meat may be used in any 
of the ways crab or lobster meat is 
used. 



FLOUNDER 

The great or starry flounder, a 
peculiar flat fish found from Mon- 
terey to Alaska the year round, is 
one of the excellent food fishes of 
the Pacific Coast. It is most abun- 



dant in August and September. 
Ways of serving : Best fried ; good 
also baked, broiled, boiled, or 
creamed. May be stuffed by slitting 
down one side and raising flesh 
from bones, then inserting bread 
stuffing. 

FLYING FISH 

These interesting fish, which boat 
passengers in southern California 
waters grow so excited to watch, 
are very good to eat. They are not 
large fish, and so may be baked 
whole, with stuffing, or broiled, the 
latter method being preferred by 
most persons. Flying fish are in 
season from May to September, in- 
clusive. 

FROGS 

Not a fish nor yet a sea food is 
the frog, but a cold-blooded aquatic 
animal with white meat and a fine, 
delicate flavor similar to that of 
quail. Usually the hind legs only, 
but sometimes the saddle or rib sec- 
tion of large-sized frogs are used 
for cooking. They are very easy to 
prepare, as they are dressed simply 
by skinning and cutting off the 
desired parts. Frog legs may be 
brushed with butter and broiled un- 
til browned and tender ; or they may 
be rolled in seasoned flour and fried 
in shallow fat, as for fried chicken, 
or dipped in batter and fried in deep 
fat (360) until done. Frog legs, 
particularly if quite fresh, are likely 
to be very active when put into hot 
fat, for the muscles contract and 
squirm about in a peculiar manner. 
Serve with tartar sauce or any de- 
sired cooked sauce. 

CEODUCKS 

See Clams. 



Came Fish 



141 



CAME FISH 

(Trout, Black Bass, Steelhead, etc.) 
Preparation and Cooking 

The proper cookery of game fish 
begins the instant they are taken 
from the water. The very first 
thing after a fish is removed from 
his native home, he should be killed. 
A rap against a rock or the side of 
the boat, or a blow on the back of 
the head or, best of all, knife sever- 
ance of vertebrae will do the trick 
painlessly and instantly. 

Next, the fish, trout especially, 
should be placed in a basket or creel 
of willow. The open construction 
of such a container lets the air cir- 
culate through and keeps the catch 
sweet. A canvas bag or sack will 
not do this, and, placed in such a 
container, fish will sweat or soften 
very rapidly. 

It is best that fish should be 
cleaned as soon as possible after 
taking. If they can be dressed, either 
then or afterward, without the use of 
water, so much the better. Rightly, 
water should not touch a fish from 
the time he's lifted out of it, a 
wriggling, kicking fighter, until just 
before he goes into the pan. During 
all this interim, they should be kept 
clean, cool, and dry. It is a good 
idea to put a folded paper towel or 
two inside each fish to absorb all 
excess moisture, if they are to be 
kept a short time. 

When your fish are clean, hang 
them up, head down for better 
drainage, in a cool place. If you 
have to handle them in an unpro- 
tected spot, take some means to keep 
insects away from them. If you put 
them in a refrigerator, never let 
them touch the ice, as to do so will 
impair their flavor. 

Certain kinds of fish, notably 
black bass, taken from muddy water, 
should be skinned rather than scaled, 



in order to get rid of the distasteful 
flavor of mud. Skinning a fish may 
sound like a difficult task but it is 
not. It's really much simpler and a 
whole lot cleaner than dressing 
them. To do it, remove the fins, 
loosen the skin with a sharp, small 
knife a good, thin-bladed paring 
knife is very handy for the work, 
if sharp loosen the skin just be- 
hind the gills, and then pull down 
on it, toward the fish's tail. Some 
fishermen like to use a small pair of 
pliers for this job. It should come 
away easily, especially if coaxed a 
little with your sharp knife, and 
there's your fish, ready for cooking. 

Bass or other fish taken from 
spring- fed running water, however, 
will be well-flavored and can be 
scaled instead of skinned. To scale 
a fish, lay him on the table, take the 
tail in your left hand, and with your 
right hand scrape the fish, tail to 
head, with a fairly dull knife. There 
are patent sealers made for the pur- 
pose that are very good. They are 
like a knife but have a saw-tooth 
back edge. The points of the saw- 
teeth catch and remove the scales 
beter than any straight blade will 
do. At all events, use a dull knife 
as scaling is not so good for the 
edge of a sharp one and a sharp 
blade will catch instead of sliding 
and dragging as it should. 

Once scaled, many cooks prefer 
to lay black bass in brine for an 
hour or so before cooking that is, 
if the fish were taken from muddy 
water. Bass may be baked, boiled, 
fried, or broiled. 

Trout, on the other hand, are al- 
most universally fried, either in deep 
or shallow fat. Before cooking, 
trout should be washed. Add a little 
salt to a pan of water, immerse the 
trout in it for a half minute or so, 
then rinse through several clear, 
cold waters. Do not leave the fish 



142 



Western Fish and Came 



in the water longer than necessary. 
Dry them inside and out with a 
clean cloth. 

Small trout, running from one- 
fourth pound to one pound in 
weight, should be fried whole after 
cleaning, but it is just as well to 
cut larger trout into medium-sized 
pieces. Dip the flesh into beaten egg, 
then roll it in fine bread or cracker 
crumbs, cornmeal, or flour into 
which a little salt has been mixed. 
Have the fat hot and put the fish 
into it, just as if you were frying 
potatoes in deep fat. Use a heavy, 
deep pot a Dutch oven or an old- 
fashioned iron kettle. Any of the 
good vegetable shortenings, lard, or 
salad oils are excellent for frying 
fish. A wire frying basket is a handy 
container and makes it easy to with- 
draw the fish when done, as cook- 
ing makes them tender and flaky 
and hard to handle. 

The fat should be hot but not 
smoking (360). The fish should 
remain in it long enough to become 
done through, and as this period 
varies with the size of the fish and 
the temperature of the grease, it is 
difficult to state in minutes. Actu- 
ally, the appearance of the fish and 
your own judgment will guide you 
better in this, after you have cooked 
one or two fish, than any set rule. 
If you doubt whether a fish is done, 
try flaking the meat a little with the 
fork; if done it should break quite 
easily and with a granular fracture 
where the fork is twisted in it. 

When done, remove your fish to 
a soft cloth or to some brown paper 
or white desk blotters to drain away 
the surplus fat. Remove to a plat- 
ter, previously heated, and garnish 
with parsley, lemon, and such trim- 
mings. 

To pan-fry the fish, proceed as 
already indicated except that the fat 
should not much more than cover 



the bottom of the pan. Heavy iron 
or aluminum skillets are excellent 
articles for this purpose. Have the 
fat hot, pop your fish in, and cover 
them up. After a few minutes, 
turn them over so that both sides 
will be nicely browned. A long- 
handled fork or cake-turner is good 
for this, as the grease frequently 
spits and sputters. Butter, clear 
fats, and vegetable oils of various 
sorts are all good for this justly 
popular method of fish cookery. 

For an extra-good twist on trout 
cookery, try frying them in melted 
butter, into which has been stirred 
the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful 
of A-l or Worcestershire sauce, a 
teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 
a dash of cayenne, and some pa- 
prika. 

Broiling methods differ with the 
size of the fish. For small ones, 
clean them but do not remove the 
heads; lay the little fellows on a 
broiler and cook them under fairly 
high heat in your gas or electric 
broiler. Get your fish up pretty 
close to the flame or element. Any- 
way, make a quick job of cooking 
them. 

In broiling large fish, remove the 
head, split the fish down the back 
and lay them out on the grill. Broil 
under a moderate fire so that they 
will be cooked through. In either 
case, lay strips of bacon across the 
fish while cooking; it flavors them 
nicely and adds interesting garnish 
to the dish when serving. 

As for time of cooking, it varies 
with the size of the fish, as well as 
the temperature of the oven and 
heat of the broiling flame. Try the 
fish with a fork; if the flesh is 
flaked easily it's done. Rare fish 
does not flake readily nor do the 
flakes have a firm white color or the 
individual fibers show as clearly as 
when the fish is thoroughly cooked. 






Halibut 



143 



All fish should be cooked done, but 
not overdone. 

To bake trout or other fish and 
this is the method which is most 
favored for large fish clean them 
very thoroughly, remove the fins 
but leave the head and tail on. Place 
in an open roaster, well buttered or 
oiled so that the fish will not stick. 
Bake in a moderate oven until well 
done, basting frequently with the 
butter and drippings in the pan. 

A variation of this method is to 
butter the pan, put in the fish, pour 
in a cupful or so of milk, and cover 
closely before putting in the oven. 
This, however, is used more with 
sea fish than with fresh- water va- 
rieties. 

Fish cooked by either method 
may be stuffed with a bread dress- 
ing like that used for chicken or 
turkey, and, especially when they 
have little flavor of their own, this 
is very effective. To do this, simply 
enlarge with a knife the cavity left 
after dressing the fish, fill this with 
the dressing, sew it up, and bake. 
Use dressing sparingly, however, 
for it will swell and may burst the 
fish open. 



CRAYFISH 

See Shark. 

HAKE 

Only one variety of hake is found 
on the West Coast, from Puget 
Sound to Catalina Island. It aver- 
ages one to two feet in length, and 
three to eight pounds in weight. It 
is a lean fish, and is best baked, 
either whole or in slices, but is also 
good boiled. It is in season the year 
round, being most abundant in De- 
cember and January. 



HALIBUT 



Halibut is the largest of the flat 
fishes. Two species of this fish are 
found along the Pacific Coast the 
Northern and the California hali- 
but. The Northern variety is caught 
along the coast of Oregon, Wash- 
ington, and Alaska, from July to 
December. It is one of our very best 
Western food fishes, the meat being 
white and firm and of excellent fla- 
vor. It may reach a length of six 
feet and weight of three hundred 
pounds, though the average size in 
our markets ranges from ten to 
sixty pounds in weight. Naturally 
fish of this size is sold in chunks 
or slices. 

California halibut, really a large 
flounder, average two to three feet 
long and ten to fifteen pounds in 
weight as found in our markets. 
The flesh is somewhat coarser than 
that of the Northern halibut. It is 
abundant during the months when 
Northern halibut is scarce that is, 
January to June, inclusive. 

Both types of halibut have fat 
rather than lean flesh, and are best 
broiled, though very good also 
boiled or baked, in slices, strips, or 
chunks. Leftover cooked halibut is 
excellent in fish loaf, croquettes, 
and all sorts of made dishes. 

HALIBUT LOA OR RAMEKINS 

2 cupfuls of flaked, cooked halibut 

1 cupful of soft bread crumbs 

2 eggs 

y 2 cupful of milk 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Y$ teaspoonful of pepper 

1 pimiento, cut in small pieces 

Soak the crumbs in the milk. Add 
the slightly beaten eggs, the fish, and 
the seasonings. Pack lightly into an 
oiled mold or individual ramekins, 
and bake like custard in a moderate 
oven (350) for 40 minutes, or 



144 



Western Fish and Came 



steam, closely covered, for one 
hour. Turn out, and serve with 
egg sauce, made by adding 2 
chopped hard-cooked eggs to a pint 
of cream sauce. Canned salmon or 
tuna may replace the halibut in this 
recipe. 

HALIBUT LOAF DE LUXE 

This loaf is exceedingly light and 
fluffy, and is worthy of serving as 
the main dish of a party luncheon. 
The expense of the dish may be re- 
duced by using evaporated milk in 
place of cream. The recipe follows : 

l l / 2 pounds of boiled halibut 
6 eggs 

1 pint of cream or evaporated milk 
Salt and pepper to taste 

Remove all bones and mash the 
fish fine, or grind through the food 
grinder three times, using the fine 
knife. Add 1 egg at a time and 
pound each thoroughly into the fish. 
Add the cream and seasonings (a 
little celery salt is a good addition), 
pour into a buttered loaf pan, set 
into a pan of hot water, and bake 
slowly (at 350) for 1 hour. If 
you must cover the dish to prevent 
burning on top, be sure to leave an 
opening so that steam may escape. 
To serve, turn out and slice as you 
do brick ice cream, and serve with 
Lobster Sauce or any desired sauce 
poured over each slice. 

Lobster Sauce 

Make a well-seasoned cream 
sauce in the usual manner, and add 
to it as much canned lobster, 
chopped fairly fine, as you care to 
use. Minced pimiento may be added 
if wished. 

HERRING 

Fresh herring is very plentiful 
from Morro Bay north along the 
coast, especially from January to 



April, at which time they are at 
their best. Herring is a rather small 
fish, about eight inches long. The 
flesh is rich and oily, consequently 
broiling is the best method of pre- 
paring them. They are, however, 
good baked with stuffing, or boiled 
and served with a sauce. 

For salt and smoked herring, see 
section on salt and smoked fish. 

KINCFISH 

A small, brownish fish abundant 
along the southern California coast 
from December to March. Meas- 
uring on the average of eight to ten 
inches long, it seldom weighs more 
than one-fourth to one-half pound. 
Excellent baked, in a small amount 
of white cooking wine, simply sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, then 
served with a Creole sauce poured 
over. Good also broiled, and still 
better pan-fried in butter, as the fish 
is lean-fleshed. 

LOBSTER OR CRAWFISH 

Lobster, as we know it on the 
Pacific Coast, is really crawfish. 
Spiny lobsters, such as are common 
to the southern Atlantic Coast, are 
found from Santa Barbara south. 
Western lobsters differ from East- 
ern in that they run much smaller 
in size, they are milder in flavor, 
and they do not have large claws. 
Eastern cook books tell us that lob- 
sters are in season from June to 
September, though they may be had 
at any time of year. Here in the 
West, spiny lobsters are most abun- 
dant from October 15 to March. 

Live lobsters are usually a mottled 
dark green in color. Boiling turns 
the shells a bright red. 

Lobsters bought uncooked should 
be very much alive when purchased. 
Putting the live creature into rap- 
idly boiling water destroys life in- 



Lobster or Crawfish 



145 



stantly, and so is not the inhumane 
practice it appears to be. If it is 
desired to broil a live lobster, first 
kill it by inserting a sharp knife in 
the back between the body and tail 
shells, severing the spinal cord ; then 
split it lengthwise, beginning at the 
head. A thick-backed, sturdy knife 
is needed for this operation. Par- 
boiling, as directed under "Broiled 
Lobster," simplifies the perform- 
ance. 

One small or "baby" lobster, 
broiled, will serve one or two per- 
sons, depending upon appetites. A 
large lobster will serve two, three, 
or four persons. 

Canned lobster may be used in 
any recipe calling for cooked lob- 
ster meat. Be sure to remove all bits 
of shell and cartilage. Either canned 
or fresh-cooked lobster makes ex- 
cellent salads and cocktails. 

To Boil and Open Lobster 

Bring 2 quarts of water and 3 
tablespoon fuls of salt to boiling. Put 
the lobster in head first, and let boil 
15 to 25 minutes, according to size. 
Drain off the water and plunge the 
lobster into cold water. When cool 
enough to handle, pull off the claws. 
Separate tail from the body and pull 
out the tail meat, taking out the in- 
testinal vein that runs through the 
middle of meat. Remove and dis- 
card the stomach, which is a small, 
hard sack found near the head. Pick 
out the meat from the body with a 
fork. If there are large claws, hold 
them sidewise on a board, crack 
with a hammer, and pull out the 
meat. If there is any coral (eggs, 
found in female), put that with the 
body meat, tail meat, and cracked 
claws on lettuce on a platter, and 
serve perfectly cold. Boiled lobster 
is usually served with mayonnaise 
dressing, to which the chopped coral 
may be added if wished. 



BROILED LOBSTER 

The lobster loses nothing in fla- 
vor and is far more easily handled 
by being parboiled for 5 to 10 min- 
utes (depending upon the size) in 
salted water as directed above, im- 
mediately before being broiled. Drop 
into cold water to cool. As soon as 
cold enough to handle, split the lob- 
ster down the back. Take out and 
discard the stomach and intestines. 
Remove the coral and the green sub- 
stance, which is the liver, and save 
them. Rub all the exposed meat 
with melted butter, and spread the 
lobster on a well-greased broiler, 
turning the flesh side toward the 
flame first for 10 to 12 minutes, then 
turn shell side and cook from 5 to 
7 minutes. Melt 2 tablespoon fuls of 
butter; add juice of half a lemon, a 
few drops of Tabasco sauce, the 
chopped coral and liver, and a little 
salt. Serve the lobster on a hot plat- 
ter, with the sauce either poured 
over the two halves or in a separate 
sauceboat. Or the broiled lobster 
may be served plain, accompanied 
by small dishes of melted butter for 
each person, and plenty of lemon 
quarters. Shoestring or hashed 
brown potatoes, French bread, and 
a simple green salad with French 
dressing "belong" with broiled lob- 
ster; coffee, of course, and fresh 
fruit for dessert. 

LOBSTER NEWBURC 

Slice or dice the meat of one lob- 
ster, and fry in butter, adding salt, 
pepper, and paprika. Make a thin 
cream sauce, and stir in the well- 
beaten yolks of 2 eggs with a little 
cream and butter. Turn the lobster 
meat into the sauce, and, if pos- 
sible, add to the mixture 2 table- 
spoonfuls of sherry cooking wine. 
Serve hot, on hot buttered toast or 
in patty cases. 



146 



Western Fish and Came 



LOBSTER FARCI 

2 hard-cooked egg yolks 

1 cupful of lobster meat 

1 tablespoonful of minced parsley 

1 cupful of medium-thick white 

sauce 

Salt to taste 

y% teaspoonful of white pepper 
YI cupful of buttered crumbs 

Rub yolks of eggs very fine and 
add to the lobster meat with pars- 
ley, sauce, and seasonings. Mix all 
well, refill lobster shell (or put into 
a buttered casserole), cover with 
buttered crumbs, and bake until 
brown. 



MACKEREL 

All year round along the south- 
ern California coast as far north as 
Monterey, mackerel is plentiful. In 
fact, it is the kind of fish that the 
fisherman is likely to bring home in 
greatest quantity. Mackerel, being 
fat, is probably at its best broiled, 
served with parsley butter. It is 
good also baked in milk, or planked. 



MULLET 

Another product of southern Cal- 
ifornia waters is the mullet, most 
abundant from January to March. 
Broiling is the preferred method of 
preparing it, but it is good also 
baked or fried. 



MUSSELS 

Similar to clams and oysters in 
appearance and flavor, and in meth- 
ods of preparation, mussels are a 
favorite delicacy on the West Coast. 
During recent summers, cases of 
mussel poisoning have been all too 
frequent along the California coast, 
from Mendocino to Monterey, and 



the Hooper Foundation of the Uni- 
versity of California has devoted 
much attention and study to the 
problem. Tests by research men of 
the Foundation have shown that 
mussels and clams are most toxic 
during a limited period in the sum- 
mer, and since that time a quaran- 
tine has been established for that 
period by local boards of health. Do 
not disregard such quarantines. 

In February, 1933, Dr. H. Muller, 
instructor in research medicine at 
the University of California, re- 
ported to the California Department 
of Public Health as follows : 

"Recent experiments have shown 
that there is a rather simple method 
by which mussels may be made 
safer to eat. The addition of Y*t 
ounce (1 tablespoonful) of bicar- 
bonate of soda to each quart of 
water in which the shellfish are 
cooked destroys 85 per cent of the 
poison when the cooking process is 
continued for 20 or 30 minutes. 
Steaming, cooking, or baking with- 
out soda does not lessen the danger 
of poisoning. As a matter of fact 
the water in which shellfish may be 
cooked takes up the major part of 
the poison, and when this water is 
used the danger of poisoning is in- 
creased. It is also a mistake to be- 
lieve that the blackening of a silver 
coin can be used as an indicator of 
the presence of poison." 

Rather than to ruin the flavor and 
tenderness of this delicious sea food 
by long cooking with soda, it seems 
much wiser and simpler to omit 
mussels entirely from the diet dur- 
ing quarantine. At other times, and 
in places where no difficulty with 
mussel poisoning has occurred, one 
may go ahead and enjoy steamed 
mussels without fear of catastrophe. 

Any oyster recipe may be used 
for preparing mussels, in addition 
to the following special directions. 



Oysters 



147 



STEAMED MUSSELS 

1 gallon of mussels in shells 
(serves eight persons) 
1 cupful of water 
Melted butter 
Salt and pepper 

Wash the shells thoroughly, and 
put the mussels into a large kettle. 
Add the water, cover kettle tightly, 
and boil until the shells open (10 
to 15 minutes). Drain, saving the 
broth.. Trim off and discard the 
horny "beard." Serve the mussels 
in plates, accompanied by small 
dishes of melted butter, and a cup 
of broth for each person. Remove 
mussel from shell with fork, dip 
into the broth and then into the but- 
ter, and eat. 

ROASTED MUSSELS 

Bake cleaned mussels in a pan in 
a hot oven (450) until the shells 
open. Remove upper shell and beard, 
carefully preserving the liquor. 
Serve on lower shell, accompanied 
by melted butter and cups of hot 
broth, as above. 

OYSTERS 

Oysters are important indeed 
among Western sea foods. Vary- 
ing in size from the tiny Olympia, 
through the middle-sized "Eastern" 
to the exceedingly large Willapoint, 
the tender bivalves are delicious in 
practically any recipe that may be 
used for clams or mussels, as well 
as in a number of ways that are 
particularly suitable to themselves. 

The "Eastern" oyster as we 
know it here is, strange to say, ordi- 
narily a product of the West Coast, 
the seed or spawn of Eastern varie- 
ties being shipped out here and 
planted in specially selected and pre- 
pared beds. Along the Northwest 
coast, and in San Francisco Bay, 



near San Mateo, both Eastern and 
Olympia oysters are grown for local 
markets. Here in the West, oysters 
are sold almost entirely by the dozen 
or hundred, rather than by measure. 

Willapa Bay, near Tokeland, 
Washington, is a fairly new oyster 
center, from which come the fa- 
mous large Willapoint oysters 
both fresh (packed fresh and clean 
in crimp-topped cans, and care- 
fully iced throughout the handling 
and transportation) and steamed 
(cooked in sealed cans, in their own 
rich nectar). These oysters are 
grown from seed or spawn of the 
Japanese variety, imported from 
Japan. 

Neither the very large nor the 
very small Western oysters are 
served "on the half -shell" as is 
common practice on the Eastern 
seaboard. Instead, the small oysters 
are likely to be served in green pep- 
per shells, grapefruit shells, or 
small glasses, embedded in crushed 
ice, with the cocktail sauce poured 
over them. The large ones could 
not possibly be swallowed whole 
and so are not used for cocktails. 
They are, however, both delicious 
and convenient for frying, cream- 
ing, and other good uses. The East- 
ern varieties are more convenient 
for serving raw. 

FRIED OYSTERS 

Pick over the oysters and pat 
them dry with a towel. Roll in fine 
white bread crumbs, dip in beaten 
egg to which salt and pepper have 
been added generously, and roll 
again in crumbs. Fry in deep hot 
fat (390) for 2 minutes, or until 
a good brown. Or the oysters may 
be pan-fried in butter, rather than 
in deep fat. Drain on brown paper 
and serve on a hot platter, garn- 
ished with parsley. Accompany with 
tomato catsup or tartar sauce. 



148 



Western Fish and Came 



OYSTER LOAF 

Every old-time San Franciscan 
sings the praises of oyster loaf. 
There is some diversity of opinion, 
however, as to the make-up of this 
famous food, and so to be on the 
safe side, we had best discuss all 
varieties as they have been de- 
scribed to us. 

First, and probably best known, 
is the simplest. To make it, cut off 
the top of a crusty loaf of bread, 
and hollow out the center. Brush 
with butter, and put into a hot oven 
to heat through and toast slightly. 
While this is going on, coat me- 
dium-sized oysters with egg and 
crumbs, and fry them brown in 
deep or shallow fat. Fill the loaf 
with the oysters, pour melted butter 
over them, put on the lid which also 
has been toasted, and it is ready to 
eat or to wrap thickly in wax 
paper and take on a picnic. A small 
loaf to serve two persons is most 
convenient for serving. 

Another type of oyster loaf is 
made by filling the hollowed-out 
loaf with an oyster-and-bread stuf- 
fing such as is used for turkey. The 
loaf is then baked until heated 
through, sliced, and served with a 
cheese or cream sauce. 

Still another oyster loaf has a 
bread-and-oyster stuffing enclosed 
in a blanket of biscuit dough, baked, 
sliced, and served with cream sauce. 
Then there are the individual oyster 
loaves made by filling hollowed-out 
French or finger rolls with creamed 
oysters after which the little loaves 
are baked and served very hot. Take 
your choice among these varieties. 

HANG TOWN FRY 

(California Fried Oysters) 

Drain and pat dry 2 dozen me- 
dium-sized California Eastern oys- 
ters, season them with salt and 



pepper and roll first in flour, then 
in beaten egg, and then in fine white 
bread crumbs. Put them into a hot 
frying-pan with melted butter, and 
fry to a golden brown on one side ; 
before turning them over pour over 
all 4 or 5 whole eggs beaten light. 
Let cook a minute, then turn over 
and brown on other side just enough 
to color them as desired. The re- 
sulting dish will look like an egg 
pancake with oysters mixed in. 
Serve two or three links of tiny 
browned breakfast sausages and 
shoestring potatoes with Hang Town 
Fry. 

OYSTERS IN RAMEKINS 

2J/2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

Y^ pound of mushrooms 

1 tablespoonful of flour (scant) 

1 cupful of milk 

Salt and cayenne 

Yolk of 1 egg 

20 medium-sized oysters 

Bread crumbs 

Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in 
a sauce pan, and add to it the mush- 
rooms, which have been washed and 
sliced. Cover, and let simmer very 
slowly until tender, without allow- 
ing to brown; add flour, and when 
well mixed, pour in the milk. When 
the sauce begins to thicken add salt 
and cayenne to taste, and stir in the 
well-beaten yolk of egg. Cook for 
a minute longer, stirring all the 
time. Drop in the oysters, and as 
soon as they are well mixed with 
the sauce, fill ramekins with the 
mixture. Sprinkle with fine white 
bread crumbs moistened with melted 
butter, and bake in a hot oven 
(400) just until the bread crumbs 
are a rich brown. 

SCALLOPED OLYMPIA 
OYSTERS 

Drain 1 pint (about 200) Olympia 
oysters. Butter a baking-dish and 



Rock Cod and Other Rockfishes 



149 



put in a layer of oysters, then a 
layer of cracker crumbs; sprinkle 
with salt and dot with small pieces 
of butter. Repeat until all are used. 
Beat 1 egg in a cup, add milk to 
half fill cup, season with salt and 
pepper, and pour over oyster pud- 
ding, adding bits of butter over the 
top. Bake for 20 minutes in a not- 
too-hot oven (350 ) in order to re- 
tain plumpness of oysters. 

OYSTER STEW 

In a sauce pan place a large piece 
of butter, say 2 tablespoonfuls, and 
in it cook 6 to 8 medium-sized or 
12 to 15 small oysters for about 3 
minutes, adding salt and a little pep- 
per. When the edges of the oysters 
(that is, the gills) curl, add 1 cupful 
of milk and allow to come to a boil. 
Turn this at once into a soup plate, 
add a tablespoonful of butter, and 
serve smoking hot. This is, of 
course, an individual amount. Crack- 
ers are passed with the stew. 



PIKE 

This fish, also called squaw fish, 
whitefish (a misnomer), or chub, is 
found in the inland streams of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin Basin. 
It is good fried, broiled, boiled and 
served with egg sauce, or baked, 
with drawn butter poured over. 

POM PA NO 

One of the best food fishes of the 
Pacific Coast is the pompano, a small 
fish (averaging 10 inches long) 
with bright silvery sides and bluish 
back. It is most abundant off the 
southern California coast, from May 
to August, but is never very plenti- 
ful and so is usually rather high in 
price. It is excellent fried or broiled, 



served with parsley and lemon but- 
ter and garnished with crisp lettuce 
hearts and lemon quarters. 



PRAWNS 

See Shrimp. 

ROCK BASS 

Another southern California fish 
is the rock bass, plentiful from 
March to September. It is lean 
fleshed, and so is best fried, though 
it is good also broiled or baked. 



ROCK COD AND OTHER 
ROCKFISHES 

There are probably fifty or more 
varieties of rockfish found along the 
Pacific Coast from Mexico to Alas- 
ka, the most common being the Boc- 
cacio and the black, green, red, and 
yellowtail rock cod. Bluefish and 
chilipepper also belong to this fam- 
ily. The Boccacio, reddish brown in 
color with a long under jaw, is par- 
ticularly abundant near Monterey. 
All the rockfish have rich white 
meat of fine flavor, with no small 
bones. Broiling, baking, and frying 
are favorite ways of preparing 
them ; boiling is a good method also. 

ROCK COD MORNAY 

2 cup fuls of thick cream sauce 
y 2 cupful of grated cheese 

3 tablespoonfuls of butter 
^2 cupful of cream 

2 cupfuls of cooked red rock cod, 

flaked 

Salt and paprika to taste 
1 to 2 teaspoonfuls of A-l or 

Worcestershire sauce 
Lemon juice to taste 

To the hot cream sauce add the 
cheese gradually, the additional but- 



150 



Western Fish and Came 



ter bit by bit, then the cream, flaked 
cod and seasonings. Cook over hot 
water, as the mixture should not 
boil. Serve on hot toast, in bread 
croustades, in patty shells, or in 
Swedish timbale cases. 

SABLEFISH 

See Alaska Black Cod. 

SALMON 

Everyone the country over knows 
salmon ; but people living far inland 
or even along the Atlantic Coast 
do not know salmon as we of the 
Pacific states know it. 

Generally speaking, salmon are 
caught in streams that empty into 
the Pacific from San Francisco Bay 
north. The Columbia River and Pu- 
get Sound country are especially 
noted for their fine salmon, and, of 
course, Alaska. Two varieties are 
prominent on this coast. Chinook, 
or king salmon, is very large, run- 
ning from ten to fifty pounds in 
weight. Silver salmon is smaller, 
averaging eight to fifteen pounds. 
While they are in season all year, 
the greatest catch is from May to 
September. 

The life cycle of the salmon is an 
interesting one, and quite well 
known. Spawned in fresh- water 
streams, the young salmon go to sea 
early. Here they live and grow for 
three or four years. In the spring 
after they reach maturity, the adult 
salmon return to their native 
streams to spawn, after which, for 
some unknown reason, the female 
dies. 

Formerly the largest catch was 
obtained during the up-stream mi- 
gration. While that catch still is 
heavy, greater numbers of salmon 
now are taken in open sea. 

It is difficult to pick any one best 



way of preparing fresh salmon, for 
it is so good every way baked 
whole or in the piece ; thick slices, 
dipped in oil, broiled, and served 
with lemon and parsley ; boiled, and 
served with any one of dozens of 
sauces; creamed; escalloped, with 
crackers or macaroni ; patties or 
croquettes; loaf, baked or steamed 
with sauce; souffles; timbales; sal- 
ads; sandwiches and so on and 
on! 

Canned salmon may be obtained 
in several grades or qualities. It is 
wise to buy according to the use to 
be made of the fish. The more ex- 
pensive fancy grades are best for 
serving plain at table, whereas for 
loaf, croquettes, or the like, a less 
expensive grade may very well be 
used. 

Directions for preserving salmon 
by salting, smoking, and kippering, 
and recipes for using the fish thus 
treated, are given on pages 156-159. 

SAND DABS 

One of the favorite and outstand- 
ing fish of the West Coast is the 
sand dab, to which northern Califor- 
nia lays practically exclusive claim. 
A rather small, flat fish it is, with 
its "face" twisted about in such a 
way that both eyes are on the same 
side of the head, and the mouth ap- 
pears to be set somewhat on the 
bias. This has no deleterious effect 
on the deliciousness of the firm, 
white flesh of the fish. 

Sand dabs are excellent broiled, 
and still better fried, Meuniere style. 
They are in season all year round. 

SAND DABS MEUNIERE 

Remove the skin from the sand 
dabs, salt and pepper them well and 
roll them in flour, then fry quickly 
in butter in a shallow frying-pan. 



Sculpin 



151 



When brown, remove fish to plat- 
ter, add a piece of butter to the pan, 
and heat until light brown in color. 
Add the juice of 1 lemon and a 
spoonful of chopped parsley, and 
pour at once over the sand dabs. 
Serve garnished with parsley and 
quartered lemons. 

SAND DABS MONTEREY 

Salt and pepper 4 sand dabs, roll 
in flour, and fry in butter. Then place 
on a hot platter and sprinkle with 
chopped parsley and the juice of 
one lemon. Put 4 tablespoonfuls of 
fresh butter in the frying-pan, add 
half a cupful of fresh bread crumbs, 
and fry quickly until golden yellow. 
Pour over the fish and serve at once. 

SARDINES 

On the West Coast, sardines come 
not only in the familiar cans, but 
fresh from the Pacific. The variety 
found and packed along the coast of 
California from San Diego to Mon- 
terey is the Pilchard, as distin- 
guished from the small herring 
which are caught and packed along 
the coast of Maine. They are most 
abundant from October to March, 
inclusive. 

The fish are so very fat, and their 
flesh is so tender and breaks so eas- 
ily, that they are not used fresh to 
any great extent.. In the commer- 
cial packing process great quanti- 
ties of the oil are cooked out of the 
fish and drained away. (This oil, 
by the way, purified, deodorized, and 
hydrogenated that is, hardened 
forms the basis of certain excellent 
shortenings that are on the market.) 

Seining for sardines is done 
chiefly at night, the trails of phos- 
phorescent light furnishing the clue 
as to where the schools of fish are 
to be found. For this reason, fish- 



ermen do not go out after sardines 
when the moon is full and bright, 
since it is too difficult to see the 
"tracks" of the fish when the ocean 
is brightly lighted by the moon. 

SCALLOPS 

This unusual shellfish, which does 
not attach itself to rocks as oysters 
do, but swims through the water by 
opening and closing its valves, is 
one of the favorite sea foods of the 
Atlantic Coast, and is obtainable 
also in West Coast markets, coming 
chiefly from southern California 
beaches. Only the adductor muscle 
is used for food. 

When scallops begin to cook, they 
exude a milky liquor, and so are not 
ordinarily pan-fried as other sea 
foods are. They may be simmered 
in their own liquor until they begin 
to shrink, drained and dried on a 
towel, then egged and crumbed and 
fried for 2 minutes in deep fat, or 
prepared in any other way that oys- 
ters may be served. Scallops en 
Brochette, with bacon, are good. 
For this, they are impaled on steel 
skewers alternately with thin 
squares of bacon, then stood up- 
right by sticking the skewers into 
cubes of bread, holes in a strip of 
wood, or even a metal flower holder 
or "frog" in a pan, and baked in a 
hot oven (450) until the bacon is 
crisp. 

Scallops may be rolled in egg and 
crumbs and fried in deep fat (at 
360) until brown, without prelim- 
inary simmering. Avoid over-cook- 
ing, which toughens them. 

SCULPIN 

A good food fish abundant in 
southern California waters in Au- 
gust and September is the sculpin. 
It is fairly good-sized (up to two 



152 



Western Fish and Came 



feet in length), highly colored, and 
has a very large head. Its flesh is 
fat, and so it is best broiled, or 
baked with a simple bread stuffing. 

SEA BASS 

See Bass. 
SHAD 

During the spring run, from late 
March to May 15, when the season 
closes, shad is caught in great quan- 
tities in the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin rivers. While it is consid- 
ered a great delicacy in the East 
( whence it was brought, to be trans- 
planted in Western streams), it 
holds the rank of poor relation on 
this coast because of its many 
bones. There are so many good 
Western fish comparatively free 
from bones, that we are likely to 
pass up shad in favor of some of 
the others. 

Shad is best baked, especially 
with the roe (eggs). It is good also 
broiled. The roe are usually rolled 
in oil, seasoned well with salt and 
pepper, and broiled, then served 
with a sharp sauce, as Maitre 
d'Hotel or Ravigote. 

SHARK, OR CRAYFISH 

Contrary to common opinion, 
shark steaks are excellent food, pre- 
pared by baking, broiling, boiling, 
etc. Since it is not a general fa- 
vorite, however, no great space will 
be given it here. 



SHEEPSHEAD 

(California Red Fish) 

An excellent food fish. Brilliantly 
colored, with wide vertical stripes 
of crimson and black along its sides, 



and averaging from one to two feet 
in length and four to twelve pounds 
in weight. Sheepshead is fairly 
abundant from Santa Barbara south, 
particularly during October, No- 
vember, and December. Best fried, 
but excellent also baked, broiled, or 
boiled. 

SHRIMPS 

Shrimps of the Pacific Coast 
vary in size and color, from the very 
small, brown California shrimps 
(which come from San Francisco 
and San Pablo bays) to the larger 
and much more brilliantly colored 
Alaska shrimps, usually called Se- 
attle shrimps. Both kinds are of 
good quality and delicious flavor. 

In some localities, it it the custom 
to buy five- or ten-cent bags of tiny 
brown shrimps, freshly cooked ; they 
are eaten much as peanuts are, 
cracking the shells in a certain way 
and pulling out the good little mor- 
sels. The heads, with all the viscera 
attached, are discarded. 

Caught chiefly in fine-meshed, 
cone-shaped nets, the fresh shrimp 
are dumped into tanks of boiling 
brine, boiled about 15 minutes, then 
screened to separate the small 
shrimps from the larger ones. The 
small ones are spread out to dry on 
a big outdoor platform ; when dry, 
a roller is run over them to break 
the meat from the shells, then they 
are put through a fanning mill to 
remove the shells, and the resulting 
dried shrimps are ready for the Chi- 
nese market, both here and abroad. 
The shrimp meal is used for ferti- 
lizer, and for fish food. The larger 
shrimps are hand-picked, usually by 
Chinese women and girls. 

Along the waterfront in some 
Western cities one can see uncooked 
shrimps for sale. Do not make the 
mistake one inexperienced young 



Shrimps 



153 



woman made, of trying to remove 
the shells before cooking the shrimp ! 
It cannot be done easily. The 
shrimps, gray when raw, assume 
their familiar pink or reddish color 
when cooked. Before using cooked 
shrimps in cocktails, salads, or other 
dishes, always remove the intestinal 
tract, the black vein down the back. 
Scrape it out, using a sharp-pointed 
knife or a fork, or split the shrimp 
in half lengthwise. 

Shrimps are delicious additions to 
dozens of ordinary dishes. They 
combine well with celery, olives, 
cucumbers, nuts, and hard-cooked 
eggs in salads. Try scrambling them 
with eggs, or mixing them with 
creamed peas or mushrooms. The 
tiny California shrimps are much 
used as a garnish for broiled fish, 
or added to cream sauce and served 
poured over salmon loaf or boiled 
fish of various kinds. The follow- 
ing recipes will suggest other com- 
binations. Canned shrimps may be 
used in any recipe calling for cooked 
shrimps. 

SHRIMPS OREGON I AN 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 
1 small onion, chopped fine 

1 cupful of shrimps (canned or 

fresh cooked), cut small 
2 /3 cupful of cream 
2 A cupful of hot boiled rice 
y 2 teaspoonful of salt 
y& teaspoonful of black pepper 
Few grains of cayenne pepper 

3 tablespoonfuls of strained tomato 

sauce or puree (may be 
omitted) 

Heat the butter over direct heat 
in the upper part of the double 
boiler. Add the onion, and cook 
slowly, covered, until soft. Rinse 
the shrimps in cold water and drain 
before cutting, being careful to re- 
move the black vein on each. Add 
them to the butter and onion. When 



heated, add the hot cream, the rice, 
and seasonings. Add a dash of cel- 
ery salt if desired. Put over boiling 
water and let cook about half an 
hour. Finally add the hot tomato 
sauce, and serve on strips of hot 
buttered toast. 

SHRIMPS NEWBURC 

Simmer 1 large can of shrimps in 
half a cube of butter. Add 1 cupful 
of cream, and heat for a few min- 
utes; stir in the beaten yolks of 2 
eggs, and stir until it begins to 
thicken, but do not boil. Chopped 
or sliced mushrooms may be added. 
Season with salt, nutmeg, and cay- 
enne pepper to taste, and serve at 
once, in patty shells, Dresden cases, 
or on strips of buttered toast. Or 
prepare stuffed baked potatoes, 
leaving a hollow space in the cen- 
ter ; fill with Shrimps Newburg, and 
serve hotter than hot. 

SKIMPY SHRIMP 

Use one can of shrimps or J/ 
pound of fresh shrimps and about 
Yz pound of grated American 
cheese. Spread 5 or 6 slices bread, 
cut about Y<2. inch thick, with but- 
ter, then cut the slices into one-inch 
squares. Arrange half in a buttered 
baking-dish or pie plate, and spread 
over them half the shrimps, sprinkle 
with half the cheese, and dot with 
a bit of mustard dry or prepared. 
Add the remaining bread cubes, and 
shrimp, and sprinkle with remainder 
of cheese. Beat slightly 3 eggs, sea- 
son with y<2. teaspoonful of salt and 
a little pepper, paprika, cayenne, 
and add 2 cupfuls of sweet milk. 
Pour over the shrimp mixture, and 
bake in a slow oven (325) for 
about 40 minutes, or until firm. 
When served with a green salad 
this is a meal in itself. 



154 



Western Fish and Came 



SHRIMP SCALLOP 

Shrimp scallop always arouses 
much curiosity among guests as to 
the exact nature of its ingredients. 
Cook a package of elbow macaroni 
in boiling water until tender, and 
drain. Break into pieces a can of 
shrimps, add half a pound of 
snappy cheese, cut in very small 
pieces or grated, and a green pep- 
per, minced. Combine all the ingre- 
dients, cover with a cream sauce 
about 2 cupfuls will be required 
and bake 45 minutes in a moderate 
oven (350). 

SKATE 

Skate fish in some localities is not 
considered with favor. It is, how- 
ever, a good food fish if not eaten 
too fresh from the water. The black 
skin should be removed by boiling 
for a few minutes, when it may be 
scraped or wiped off. Skate is usu- 
ally served boiled, with browned 
butter, lemon juice, and parsley, or 
other sharp sauce. 

SKIPJACK 

Skipjack, or striped tuna, has 
dark flesh, rather fat. It is best 
broiled, though it may be baked 
with stuffing, or fried. 

SMELT, OR SURF FISH 

Pacific smelt is different from 
Eastern smelt. Small, averaging 
about eight inches in length, the 
flesh is rich, soft, and delicate, and 
of excellent flavor. They are most 
abundant from July to March. The 
early spring smelt run in the Sandy 
River, near Portland, is traditional. 
Whether fried, baked with crumbs, 
or prepared in Italian or Spanish 
style, they are delicious. 



SOLE 

Approximately a third of all the 
fish consumed in northern Califor- 
nia is "flat fish," of which soles are 
best known. They are caught from 
Monterey north by power tug boats 
dragging nets along the bottom of 
the ocean in water from 200 to 600 
feet deep. Soles weigh usually from 
one-half pound to one or two 
pounds. The lean flesh accommo- 
dates itself to dozens of interesting 
ways of preparing. Fried or baked 
fillets are favorites, served with va- 
rious sauces ranging from simple to 
elaborate. 

SQUID 

(Also Cuttlefish, Devilfish, Inkfish, 
Octopus) 

A peculiar type of shell fish, in 
that they wear their shells internally 
rather than externally, are these 
queer creatures which range in size 
from a few inches to as much as 
fifty feet from tip to tip of opposite 
tentacles. The smaller varieties are 
appearing on the market more and 
more, for their deliciousness is win- 
ning them popularity daily. 

These fish, when attacked, squirt 
out an inky liquid which spreads 
and forms a "smoke screen" that 
confuses the enemy. One sometimes 
sees a fisherman with his face cov- 
ered with this inky secretion. 

To prepare any of the devilfish 
listed, split the belly and remove the 
quill or backbone (which is the 
shell), and the viscera and ink sac. 
Cut the fish into serving-size pieces, 
dip in salted milk, then in crumbs, 
put into an oiled baking pan, dot 
the fish with butter, and bake not 
longer than 10 minutes in a hot oven 
(450). Do not add any liquid while 
baking. Serve at once. The fish may 
also be boiled, and served with 



Trout 



155 



sauce. Leftover cooked fish, minced, 
may be used in any recipe calling 
for cooked fish or sea food. 

STEELHEAD 

This big sea-going rainbow trout 
is the delight of fishermen and their 
wives alike, for in addition to the 
sport of catching them, eating them 
is equally good sport. Follow di- 
rections for salmon or trout; see 
"Game Fish," page 141, 

STRIPED BASS 

See Bass 

SWORDFISH 

These great fish, weighing from 
300 to 400 pounds each, are among 
the finest of food fishes. The long, 
sharp under-jaw forms a "sword" 
which is its sole weapon of offense 
and defense, as the fish has no teeth. 
Swordfishes are caught only in the 
extreme southern waters of the 
West Coast, from Los Angeles 
south, and are most abundant in 
July, August, and September. 

Naturally, only slices or fillets of 
the flesh are of suitable size for 
home use. They are excellent 
broiled, baked, or fried. 

TUNA 

"A large, robust fish of the mack- 
erel family," says the excellent 
booklet, Five Hundred Ways to 
Cook California Sea Foods; and 
"robust" the tuna certainly is, for 
it reaches a length of five or six 
feet and weighs anywhere from 20 
to as high as 1,500 pounds! 

It is well called "chicken of the 
sea," for its white, firm, rather oily 
flesh has a delicious flavor. Most 
of us know tuna in the canned state 
rather than fresh, though it is some- 
times found in southern California 



markets. Tuna are abundant around 
Santa Barbara Island, and in south- 
ern California waters during July, 
August, and September. Slices of 
the fish may be boiled, broiled, or 
baked. Canned tuna lends itself to 
an infinite number of excellent reci- 
pes; it is also delicious merely 
served plain as it comes from the 
can, with lemon and parsley. 

Four species of tuna are packed 
here on the West Coast. Albacore, 
or Longfin, has snowy white meat. 
Yellowfins and Bluefins, or leaping 
tuna, have slightly darker meat. 
Skipjack, or striped tuna, has dark- 
est meat of all, and slightly gamy 
flavor. The whitest meat has least 
fishy flavor, and so can be substi- 
tuted for or used to eke out a small 
supply of chicken in salad or 
creamed dish. Great tuna, variously 
known as tunny, tuna, or horse 
mackerel, has a black or dark blue 
back, shading to dusky white or 
spotted silver on its belly. 

TOMCOD 

From Monterey north along the 
coast the California tomcod is 
caught a small, fat-fleshed fish 
rarely more than a foot in length. 
It is most abundant during July, 
August, and September, and is good 
broiled, fried plain or Metmiere 
style, or baked with mushrooms. 

TROUT 

So excellent a fish as trout needs 
only the simplest treatment to be 
superb. Broiled, with or without 
bacon, fried or baked you will not 
grow tired of trout fresh from the 
icy waters of a mountain stream or 
lake prepared in these well-tried 
ways. For care of fish after catch- 
ing, and preparation for cooking, 
see paragraphs under "Game Fish." 



156 



Western Fish and Came 



TURBOT 

This large, flat fish of the floun- 
der family is almost as wide as it is 
long, and has four or five large 
spots on the back. It is not found 
along the Southern coast, and is 
never very plentiful anywhere. It 
is usually served boiled or baked, 
preferably with a white wine sauce. 

WHITEBAIT 

This tiny fish, seldom more than 
six inches long, is sometimes seen 
in the markets labeled "small fry" 
the reason being, as one fish man 
explained, that women unfamiliar 
with it are likely to conclude from 
its real name that it is to be used 
for bait! 

As is the case with small sardines, 
whitebait are not cleaned before 
cooking, but merely washed. They 
are a delicious frying fish, the flesh 
being very delicate and sweet. To 
fry, wash and drain them well, then 
shake the little fish with a small 
quantity of flour in a stout paper 
bag. Put the floured fish into a 
frying basket, or drop one by one 
into a pan of very hot fat (390) 
and fry until brown. Drain on 
cloth or paper, sprinkle with salt 
and a dash of cayenne or black 
pepper, and serve with quarters of 
lemon and thin slices of brown 
bread and butter. 

WHITEFISH 

A good, white-fleshed food fish, 
of good flavor, found from Mon- 
terey south. The whitefish is fairly 
good-sized, reaching about two feet 
in length and three to six pounds in 
weight. Excellent broiled or boiled ; 
also particularly good made into 
various dishes after boiling and 
boning. 



YELLOWTAIL 

The California yellowtail, a beau- 
tifully colored fish averaging two 
to three feet in length, is found 
from Santa Barbara south into 
Mexican waters. The flesh is of 
excellent flavor, resembling that of 
tuna and albacore. Yellowtail is 
most abundant during July, August, 
and September. Being large, it must 
be cut into portions suitable for 
serving, or at least into pieces that 
will fit one's roaster and oven! It 
is good baked, broiled, or pan-fried. 

KIPPERED AND PICKLED 
FISH 

Canning, though certainly the 
most important, is not the only 
method of preserving fish here on 
the West Coast. The old-time meth- 
ods of salting, smoking, jerking, 
kippering, and pickling, with some 
modern improvements, are very 
much in vogue today, and justly so, 
for the fish preserved in such ways 
is a novel and interesting delicacy. 

Our smoked herring come chiefly 
from Alaska, which produces 50 
per cent of the output of this entire 
nation. Throughout the Northwest, 
many families and many fishermen 
and guides have their own smoke- 
houses, where they take care of the 
fish fresh from the chilly waters. 

Not only salmon, but cod and 
sometimes herring are kippered. 
Salmon, shad, smelt, mackerel, and 
many other fish are salted and 
smoked. Salmon bellies are fre- 
quently put down in salt, just as 
salt pork is prepared in the Middle 
West. Dried salt cod is, of course, a 
famous old standby in the food 
world, but not everyone knows that 
Washington and Alaska produce a 
good quantity of the salt cod used 
in the country. 



Kippered and Pickled Fish 



157 



The essential difference between 
kippered and ordinary smoked or 
jerked fish is that the kippered fish 
is steamed before it is smoked. Be- 
cause of this steaming it contains 
a large amount of water and is 
therefore highly perishable. 

Both kippered and jerked salmon 
are given a light cure and a short- 
time smoke. In addition, kippered 
salmon is dipped into a vegetable 
coloring bath to give it its charac- 
teristic red coating. This dip is for 
appearance only and is not a pre- 
servative. 

Directions for Kippering 

Briefly, the method for kippering 
is as follows: Prepare the fish by 
cutting it into pieces about six 
inches long and three inches wide. 
Place pieces in a brine made by dis- 
solving one pint of salt in six quarts 
of water. Let stand overnight. Re- 
move from the brine and steam well 
for 20 to 25 minutes. Carefully re- 
move from the steamer with a wide 
spatula or similar device to avoid 
breaking the fish. As it rests on the 
spatula immerse each piece of 
salmon in a solution of a vegetable 
powder (obtained from local butcher 
or from a butcher supply house) 
which colors it nicely. Place the 
salmon on a rack in the smokehouse 
and smoke for from 12 to 18 hours 
with a moderate smoke. Upon re- 
moving the fish from the smoke- 
house cool it quickly and thoroughly, 
then wrap each piece separately in 
waxed paper. Keep in cool place. 

The most important point in pre- 
paring either kippered or jerked 
salmon is to cool the product thor- 
oughly before wrapping it after re- 
moving it from the smokehouse. 

Detailed directions for kippering 
salmon, also those for jerking salm- 
on, may be found in the leaflet 
HE 416, put out by the Home Eco- 



nomics Extension Office, Oregon 
State Agricultural College, Corval- 
lis, Oregon. 

How to Smoke Fish 
To get any fish ready for smok- 
ing, it should be cleaned as quickly 
as possible after being caught. 
Wash, cover thickly with coarse or 
dairy salt, and let stand 24 hours. 
In the morning wipe off the salt 
with a cloth, and cut the fish, if 
large, into pieces weighing about 1 
to \Y-2 pounds; medium-sized fish 
may be split up the back to within 
two inches of the tail. A little stick 
placed between the halves will prop 
them apart so that the smoke may 
penetrate the flesh evenly. Small 
fish, as smelt, do not need to be split. 

Hang the fish on wire hooks, or 
lay the pieces out on wire mesh 
trays or racks so that the smoke 
may circulate freely. Smelt may be 
strung on wires. A small smoke- 
house made of a tight box may be 
used, with a fire built in a depres- 
sion in the ground ; or trie pipe from 
a little air-tight stove may lead into 
a tight box, with another flue open- 
ing opposite to permit excess smoke 
to escape. 

Apple wood, alder, vine maple, 
old oak, or any hard wood that will 
burn with a smoldering fire and give 
off dense smoke may be used. 

The length of time necessary for 
smoking must be judged by sam- 
pling. Anywhere from 4 hours for 
a two-pound mackerel, up to 24 
hours or longer may seem advisable. 

After cooling, the smoked fish 
should be kept in a dry, cool place. The 
longer they are smoked and the drier 
they are, the longer they will keep. 

How to Prepare Kippered, 
Smoked, and Salted Fish 

Kippered fish, being pretty well 
cooked in the steaming and smok- 
ing, demands no further cooking, 



158 



Western Fish and Came 



though it may receive it. Sliced very 
thin, kippered salmon makes delicious 
appetizers or sandwiches. Smoked 
fresh or salt salmon may be treated 
the same way. Ordinarily it needs no 
seasoning other than black pepper. 

For use in cooking, it may seem 
necessary to freshen kippered fish a 
little. To do so, pour boiling water 
over the fish, let stand 10 minutes, 
then drain and use. 

On the other hand, to freshen 
dried salt codfish and the like by 
the quick modern method, cover the 
codfish with cold water, bring just 
to boiling, and pour away the water ; 
repeat this process two more times, 
then again cover fish with cold wa- 
ter, and cook until it is tender. This 
requires only about 15 minutes, as 
against the old way of soaking salt 
fish overnight and thus soaking out 
much of its flavor along with its salt. 

Smoked fish is good in salads and 
sandwiches, creamed on toast, or 
used in croquettes or patties. 
Smoked mackerel, mashed fine with 
a fork and mixed with mayonnaise 
and chopped sweet pickles, makes 
a fine spread for sandwiches or 
canapes. Plain, it goes beautifully 
with a Dutch lunch of cheese, 
pickles, cold meats, rye bread or 
krisp, and the like. 

It may be heated in the broiling 
oven and served with hot butter and 
lemon juice poured over ; or it may 
be heated gently in a little butter, 
then covered with table cream and 
seasoned highly with black pepper. 
Boiled or baked potatoes go well 
with either of these. 

Smoked smelt may be used as 
sardines, or covered with tomato 
sauce and baked slowly until the 
liquid is mostly absorbed. 

BAKED KIPPERED COD 

To serve four persons, take three 
pieces of kippered cod, wash, and 



place in a casserole. Partly cover 
with milk (diluted evaporated milk 
may be used) and place the covered 
dish in a slow oven (300) to bake 
for about an hour. If you wish to 
bake potatoes at the same time, to 
serve with this dish, the kippered 
cod may be baked a shorter length 
of time at higher temperature. 
Plain boiled or baked potatoes and 
watercress or endive are delicious 
served with this. 

KIPPERED ALASKA COD IN 
CREAM 

Kippered Alaska black cod is a 
delicate smoked fish. Remove the 
skin, place in a sauce pan, and cover 
with thick cream. Bring slowly to 
a boil, and let stand for about ten 
minutes at boiling point. Another 
method of cooking is to put the fish 
in a sauce pan, cover with water, 
and bring to a boil. Then drain off 
the water, add some cream sauce 
and a small piece of butter, season 
with salt and pepper, and cook 
gently for five minutes. 

CODFISH SPANISH 

1 pound of boneless salt codfish 
Y^ cupful of salad oil 

2 cloves of garlic 

1 large can of tomatoes 
1 large boiled potato, cubed 
1 dozen green olives 
1 small can of pimiento 

Freshen the fish as directed above, 
cut small, and cook until tender. 
Saute the two cloves of garlic in the 
salad oil until brown, then remove 
them from the oil; thus you will 
have only the flavor of the garlic. 
Add the tomato, potato, and last the 
green olives and the red pimiento 
cut in strips. Cook all together for 
2 or 3 minutes, then mix in the 
codfish and let it simmer gently for 
20 or 25 minutes. Serve hot, on 
toast or on boiled rice. 



Western Came 



159 



CODFISH A LA NEWBURG 

2 cupfuls of salt codfish, shredded 

3 hard-cooked eggs 

4 tablespoonfuls of butter 
4 tablespoonfuls of flour 

1 pint of evaporated milk or thin 
cream 

1 pint of fresh milk 

2 soda crackers 

1 pinch each of powdered bay leaf, 

mace, paprika, pepper, and 
nutmeg 
Salt to taste 

Freshen the codfish by soaking in 
cold water for 3 hours, changing 
the water three times. Drain, cover 
with hot water, and cook until ten- 
der. Rub the yolks of the hard- 
cooked eggs smooth with a little 
milk, and chop the whites. Heat the 
evaporated milk and the fresh milk 
in a double boiler. Blend the butter 
and flour, thin with a little of the 
hot milk, and stir this into the milk 
in the double boiler, being careful 
to avoid lumping. Add the egg 
yolks and the spices, and cook, stir- 
ring occasionally, until slightly 
thickened. Now add the chopped 
egg whites, the cooked codfish, and 
the cracker crumbs. Add a little salt 
if it is needed (taste to see that it 
is well seasoned) and serve very 
hot, in patty shells, accompanied by 
mashed potatoes and a green salad. 
Serves six or eight. 

KIPPERED SALMON FLUFF 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 
2 scant teaspoonfuls of salt 
Pepper or paprika to taste 
\Y-2. tablespoonfuls of flour 
1^2 cupfuls of milk 

2 eggs, separated 

2 cupfuls of shredded kippered 

salmon 
4 cupfuls of freshly mashed or 

riced potatoes 
1 cupful of grated or thinly sliced 

cheese 

Make a cream sauce by melting 
butter, adding salt, pepper (or pa- 



prika), and flour, and stirring to a 
smooth paste. Add the milk and 
keep stirring constantly until the 
mixture thickens ; remove from 
heat. Into the cream sauce put the 
egg yolks and mix well, then add 
the shredded salmon, the potatoes, 
and last the stiffly beaten egg whites. 
Place the mixture in a buttered 
baking-dish, cover with the cheese, 
place in oven, and heat through 
thoroughly until the cheese melts 
and browns slightly. Serve at once. 
Will serve five or six persons. Cod- 
fish or other flaked fish may be sub- 
stituted. 



BROILED SMOKED SALMON 

Slice the salmon about one-half 
inch thick, roll in salad oil and broil. 
When done put on platter, cover 
with Maitre d'Hotel sauce, and 
garnish with quartered lemons and 
parsley. 



WESTERN CAME 

Practically every month in the 
year, Western sportsmen are likely 
to be bringing home foods from the 
wilds that prove their skill with 
rod or gun. It is, therefore, up 
to every Western woman to know 
how to treat, and not mistreat, 
these unusual birds and beasts and 
fish. 

The fish have already been dis- 
cussed. Among wild fowl, ducks 
are well in the lead, but we also 
occasionally have wild geese, wild 
pigeons, doves, partridge, quail, 
wild turkey, and possibly other birds 
of particular local interest. As for 
wild animals, not only rabbit cot- 
tontails and young jackrabbits and 
venison, but bear, moose, mountain 
goat, and mountain sheep are of at 
least occasional interest. 



160 



Western Fish and Came 



WILD FOWL 

There are a few general rules 
about the preparation of game birds. 
First, they should never be scalded 
before plucking. Wild ducks are 
picked, singed, heads removed, 
drawn and trussed like chickens. 
This task need no longer worry the 
housewife, however, for in any 
Western city the meat man will pick 
and dress the ducks for only a few 
cents each money well earned you 
will agree if you have ever picked 
a duck ! All dark - skinned game 
birds are cooked very rare; those 
with light skins well done. 

Wild ducks are not usually 
stuffed, or seasoned except with a 
little salt. Occasionally, if the duck 
is of strong flavor, a stalk or two 
of celery, a sliced apple and an 
onion are placed inside to be left 
during the roasting, then removed. 

Wild birds live almost entirely 
on vegetable diet, which imparts a 
fine flavor to their flesh, but sup- 
plies no fat. Lard the birds, or, if 
small, wrap them in thin slices of 
bacon, or arrange strips of bacon or 
salt pork over the breasts or inside 
the bird. 

Do not cook the game bird too 
soon after killing. It should hang 
at least a week, in cool weather, or 
until it has become quite tender. 
Draw it before hanging, but it is 
not necessary to pluck it. Some 
cooks recommend a paraffin bath 
for removing pin feathers and down 
from ducks and geese. Dry pick it 
first. Next submerge the bird in 
boiling water with plenty of paraf- 
fin melted in it, take out and let 
cool. The down and pin feathers 
can then be more or less easily 
scraped off. 

Besides hot paraffin for removing 
feathers, there is a rosin process. 
A hunter, of course, doesn't mind 



getting his fingers all gummed up, 
but a housewife might. Rub rosin 
(powdered) well into the down be- 
fore any of the feathers are re- 
moved. Dip the duck in scalding 
hot water. This causes the rosin 
to melt a little. Then the feathers 
can be peeled off as slick as a 
whistle maybe. 



WILD DUCKS 

The proper culinary preparation 
of ducks begins the instant they are 
killed. In one case you might say it 
begins the instant they are hit, for 
it is important to kill quickly any 
birds to which the pellets from your 
shotgun have not proved fatal. 
This is not only humane but checks 
the chance of the meat becoming 
fevered. 

Once killed, ducks should be 
hung in a cool place about the blind 
until the hunter is ready to come in 
from his day's shooting. On the 
way home the birds should be hung 
outside the car where the air can 
get at them. It is best to bleed the 
birds immediately after they are 
killed. If this is done, it will be 
much easier to pluck them. 

There is also another small task 
the performance of which will 
greatly improve the quality of the 
meat. This is the removal of the 
two oil-glands above the tail. The 
longer they are left on the bird, the 
more the oil will permeate from 
them through the flesh and conse- 
quently the more oily taste the meat 
will have. In all events, they must 
be removed before the bird is 
cooked. 

Neither ducks nor any other 
game birds should ever be packed in 
grass, leaves, straw or anything else 
that will cut off ventilation from 
them and cause the meat to "sweat." 



Wild Ducks 



161 



Should your ducks reach you in 
frozen condition, do not thaw them 
until you are ready to cook them. 

No duck should ever be cooked 
until six or seven hours after kill- 
ing. On the other hand, do not go 
to the other extreme and "hang" 
your duck until the meat smells to 
high heaven before you think of 
roasting him. Cook your ducks 
while they're still eatable. 

Pluck your birds dry. Hang them 
up by the leg and pick downward 
toward the head, not overlooking 
quills and pinfeathers. Then singe 
quickly. (Turn the gas flame high, 
or use a burning paper to burn off 
the hairs quickly.) Cut off the head 
close to the body and sever the legs 
at the first joint. Draw as you 
would any sort of poultry. Don't 
forget to amputate those rear oil- 
tanks. 

How to Roast Duck 

You are now ready to roast your 
duck. Just plain roast duck, with- 
out any fixings or trimmings, is a 
wonderful dish. There are, how- 
ever, quite a lot of things you can 
do to ducks with improvement to 
the artistic ensemble, so to speak, 
and added satisfaction to your own 
palate. Consider the plain roast 
process first. Ducks should always 
be cooked underdone, never over- 
done. Roast a large duck about 20 
minutes in a very hot oven (450 
to 500) ; a smaller one 15 minutes 
or a trifle more. I say this advisedly, 
knowing that in some restaurants 
and better-class hotels the rule is 
25 minutes. Keep your duck rare; 
he's a healthy bird and there is no 
reason for cooking him extra well, 
as is the case with certain domestic 
meats. (Of course, if you really 
like your bird cooked overdone, 
there is no law that you shall not 
roast it longer say 45 minutes. Be 



sure to baste it well while roasting, 
or it will be dry and tasteless.) 

Never soak the duck in water. 
Wipe inside and out with a clean, 
damp cloth. If desired, ducks can 
be stuffed with the same dressing 
you would use in stuffing turkeys, 
with onion, chopped fine, added. If 
you do not stuff your ducks, put a 
quartered apple, a couple of quar- 
tered onions, and a branch of celery 
inside. Cooked inside the birds, but 
not to be served, these will give a 
very fine flavor. Rub the breast of 
each bird with bacon fat and put 
enough grease in the pan to prevent 
the meat from sticking. Roast in a 
very hot oven (475), uncovered. 

So much for the plain roast duck. 
Ducks are better with sauce. Here's 



one: 



Sauce for Roast Duck 



Mix 1^2 tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, 1 teaspoonful each of Wor- 
cestershire sauce, catsup, and cur- 
rant jelly, a pinch of salt, one dash 
of lemon juice, and cayenne to suit. 
This makes enough sauce for two 
large ducks. 

If sauce is used, prepare it sepa- 
rately from the ducks, then every 5 
minutes, while the birds are roast- 
ing, remove them from the oven, 
stick a fork in the neck of each bird 
in turn and hold the carcass so that 
the meat juices which have collected 
inside will drain into the sauce. 
This sauce may be served in a sepa- 
rate dish and poured over the slices 
of duck as carved or it may be 
poured over the ducks when they 
are placed on the serving platter. 

If you feel inclined to do still 
more with your duck, brush the in- 
side of each bird, before cooking, 
with the following mixture: 2 tea- 
spoonfuls each of sage, summer sa- 
vory, thyme, sweet marjoram. Mix 
these well and keep in a bottle or 



162 



Western Fish and Came 



small jar. Use about ^ teaspoon- 
ful of the mixture in each bird. 
Added to this for still further im- 
provement, form a "trough" from 
a large stalk of celery. Place this in 
the opening of each bird's carcass 
and pour in through it 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of cooking sherry. 

Good to Serve with Wild Fowl 

Wild rice 

Currant or other tart jelly 

Baked oranges 

Fried pineapple 

Fried hominy cakes 

Any green vegetable 

Sweet potatoes 

Green salads 



COOT 

Many hunters find the common 
coot, or mudhen, a real gastronomic 
treat, and where ducks and geese 
are scarce the coot can very well 
take their place. Here is an excel- 
lent recipe that comes from Utah. 
Skin the birds and cut off legs and 
breast. Split breast in two parts. 
Wash all parts thoroughly in cold 
water and, if desired, soak them a 
few hours in salt or soda water, but 
this is not necessary as skinned coot 
has no strong or unpleasant flavor. 
Roll damp meat in flour and place 
in frying - pan over a slow fire. 
Cover pan and allow to fry slowly 
in either bacon grease or lard. Keep 
pan covered and after meat has 
cooked for about 30 minutes, add 
a generous lump of butter. Get pan 
hot and then pour in Y^ to 1 cupful 
of cold water (quantity to be 
gauged by size of pan and number 
to be served). Replace tight cover 
and allow to steam about a minute 
or two. Remove meat, stir in suf- 
ficient flour paste to thicken gravy, 
and serve. 



WILD GOOSE 

Not so abundant nor so easy to 
shoot as wild ducks, wild geese are 
in some sections of the West a 
rather frequently enjoyed delicacy. 
These birds grow to much larger 
size than the ducks, often weighing 
as much as seven or eight pounds 
apiece. The meat the skin particu- 
larly is likely to be stronger in 
flavor than duck. 

Geese are picked dry, for their 
feathers are so lovely that most 
women, on ranches at least, want to 
save them to use for soft down 
pillows. Then they are singed and 
drawn as usual. 

A young goose may be disjointed, 
rolled in flour, and fried slowly, as 
for a heavy young chicken. Older 
ones should be skinned and fried or 
fricasseed. Or they may be stuffed 
with a potato and onion dressing, 
and roasted as tame goose is treated, 
basting well while cooking. Allow 
25 minutes to the pound. 

PRAIRIE CHICKEN 

(Also Pheasant, or Grouse) 

While these birds are quite differ- 
ent, the methods used in preparing 
them are much the same. They are 
all improved in tenderness and fla- 
vor by hanging a short time (say a 
week) before cooking. They may 
be broiled, or roasted, or cut up and 
fried as chicken is fried; when 
browned nicely, cover with fresh 
or diluted evaporated milk, cover 
tightly, and bake slowly or simmer 
on top of the stove for an hour. 

SAGE HENS 

Young sage hens are very good 
food. Dress immediately after kill- 
ing, to prevent too strongly insistent 
a sage taste. Fry or roast as ordi- 
nary chicken. 



Doves and Pigeons 



163 



ROAST GROUSE 

(Also Prairie Hen or Pheasant) 

Cover the breast of the fowl with 
thin slices of fat salt pork or bacon ; 
roast it uncovered in a hot oven 
(475), allowing 20 to 25 minutes 
to the pound, basting frequently. 
When done, remove to a hot platter 
and garnish with stuffed mushrooms 
and water cress. Serve with bread 
sauce and browned crumbs. 

HUNGARIAN PARTRIDGE 
AND QUAIL 

These may be split and pan- fried 
in butter after dipping in flour and 
sprinkling with salt and freshly 
ground pepper. Place in a roaster 
with a cupful of hot water, cover 
and bake in a 400 oven 30 min- 
utes. Make a gravy of the fat in 
the pan and the chopped giblets 
which have been boiled. Use milk 
for the liquid to thin the gravy. 
Partridge and quail may be roasted 
also. Place strips of bacon over the 
birds, and it will baste them with 
the fat. An additional basting with 
water in the pan is necessary for a 
good glaze. Remove the bacon a few 
minutes before serving to brown. 
The flesh of quail is dry and the 
bacon gives an additional amount of 
fat as well as preventing burning. 

QUAIL ON TOAST 

This makes a savory luncheon 
dish. Prepare the birds in the usual 
way, cleaning and removing all pin 
feathers, then stuff with a nice 
chicken filling, truss like miniature 
turkeys, season with salt and pep- 
per, and wrap each bird in thin 
slices of bacon. Roast in a moder- 
ately hot oven (400). When done, 
remove the bacon and arrange the 



birds on hot buttered toast, brush 
with melted butter to which a little 
lemon juice has been added; serve 
with currant jelly. 

DOVES AND PIGEONS 

These may be cooked in the same 
manner as Hungarian partridges and 
quail. They are plentiful in California. 

Squabs, while not legitimately 
classed as game, are treated much 
as game birds in cooking, and so 
are included here. Wild pigeons 
and doves, if young and tender, may 
be cooked as directed for squabs. 

BROILED SQUABS 

Allow 1 squab for each serving. 
Clean and split down the back, flat- 
ten open, and wash inside and out. 
Fasten a strip of bacon across each 
breast, tucking it under the wings. 
Broil quickly or cook in a very hot 
oven (500) for 5 to 10 minutes, 
then finish with reduced heat, cook- 
ing until meat is tender (about 25 
minutes). Serve on toast accom- 
panied by mushrooms, peas, and 
green-grape jelly. 

ROAST SQUABS 

Clean and wash squabs without 
splitting open; wipe dry, and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Rub 
inside and out with melted butter 
and stuff cavity with any preferred 
stuffing, as for roast chicken. Fasten 
legs to back with skewers, and place 
in an oiled baking-pan close to- 
gether. Pour a little butter on the 
breast of each squab, or lay a strip 
of bacon over the breast. Bake in a 
hot oven (500) for 10 minutes; 
reduce the heat to 375 degrees, pour 
a very little water over the squabs, 
and roast slowly for 25 minutes or 
until the birds are tender, basting 
frequently. Garnish with water 
cress and serve with currant jelly. 



164 



Western Fish and Came 



POTTED PIGEONS OR DOVES 

This is an old-fashioned dish but 
a fine one. Prepare 6 pigeons by 
cleaning and trussing into shape, 
rub the breasts with butter, and fry 
in hot fat to a nice brown. Then 
place them in a casserole. Make a 
sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 
1 tablespoonful of flour, and 1 pint 
of stock or water ; add 1 onion 
quartered, a small bit of bay leaf, 
a sprig of parsley, and salt and 
pepper to taste. Simmer until 
slightly thickened and pour over the 
pigeons. Cover and cook in a slow 
oven (325) for lj to 3 hours ac- 
cording to the age and tenderness 
of the pigeons. Arrange the birds 
on a mound of freshly boiled rice 
with a garnish of asparagus tips and 
green peas about them, dot with 
currant jelly and strain the gravy 
into the sauce boat. 

WILD TURKEY 

Prepare the same way one would 
a tame turkey. Wipe inside with a 
damp cloth, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and stuff with any preferred 
turkey stuffing, allowing room for 
swelling. Skewer or sew the open- 
ing shut, tie legs and wings close to 
body, and tie strips of salt pork 
over the bird. Put into roaster with 
YZ cupful of water, and put into a 
hot oven (450) for 1 hour. After 
this time, lower the heat, and cook 
until tender. Baste with butter and 
water at first, and later with juice in 
pan. Remove pork and brown the 
breast. Make a giblet gravy, and 
serve the turkey with cranberry jelly. 

WILD CAME 

To cook wild meat, it needs to 
be hung the proper length of time, 
Two weeks is the shortest possible 
time to allow before cutting into a 
carcass. In freezing weather or 



with proper refrigeration the meat 
may hang thirty days. 

VENISON 

Venison is a dark-colored, short- 
fibered meat, rather highly "game" 
flavored, and, if properly cared for 
and cooked, is tender and easily di- 
gested. It will be tough until it has 
been hung several days. So far as 
the housewife at home is concerned, 
she need not delay cooking venison 
after she receives it ; the meat prob- 
ably will have been hung sufficiently 
by that time. In camp, it is as well 
to let the meat hang most of a week, 
meanwhile eating bacon and the 
liver if necessary. Keep blowflies 
away from it; they can wreck a 
good quarter of venison much 
quicker than you can collect it out 
in the woods. One means of doing 
this is to quarter the carcass, dust 
the meat with flour, and sew each 
quarter up loosely in a cheesecloth 
bag. Hung up in a shady place, as 
cool as possible, where draughts of 
air can reach it, venison so prepared 
will keep for several days or even 
weeks. The longer it is hung, pro- 
vided it is kept cool and dry, the 
more tender and better flavored 
venison becomes. 

Venison may be fried, broiled, 
roasted, baked, boiled, or stewed. 
As to the choice of ways a great 
deal depends upon the age of the 
buck, the condition of his meat, and 
the particular cut to be used. 

Frying and broiling are the quick- 
est and easiest ways of cooking the 
meat but the cuts should be from 
the loin, rib chops, or the ham. For 
the purpose, the meat should be 
pounded somewhat not hacked or 
chopped but thumped a bit with a 
hammer, the back of an axe, or a 
clean, smooth rock. Cooking should 
be done over a bed of coals, such as 
hardwood makes ; never over a 



Venison 



165 



flame. For broiling, however, the 
meat should be seared over a flame 
to prevent the juices from oozing 
out and being wasted before the 
cooking really begins, in which case 
your venison will taste about the 
same as a well-seasoned piece of 
saddle-leather and sometimes just 
about as tender. 

Broiling is the preferable method 
of cooking, for it preserves the fla- 
vor of the meat and improves its 
digestibility. That is, it is prefer- 
able as compared with frying. 

To roast venison while in camp, 
suspend the meat in front of a 
good hardwood fire. Turn it often. 
Catch the drippings in a pan placed 
on the ground and baste the roast 
frequently with the drippings. Use 
the drippings for gravy when serv- 
ing the roast. If you do a good 
job of this, you will know what real 
venison tastes like. 

Venison should be cooked to 
about the same stage as a steak is 
cooked when you order a "tender- 
loin, medium rare" in a good restau- 
rant. It should not be over-cooked 
and it should not be quite rare. 

Home Recipes for Venison 

Keep the bulk of the meat in the 
local ice plant and take out small 
amounts as needed. 

TENDERLOIN 

There is nothing quite so deli- 
cious as the tenderloin and there is 
not much trick to cooking it. Sim- 
ply trim and cut in small pieces 
about an inch thick, sprinkle with 
salt and flour, and pop into a sizzling 
pan of butter. Other fats can be 
used, of course, but the butter 
makes it ever so much better. Let it 
brown thoroughly on both sides, 
then turn the heat low, cover, and 
let simmer slowly for a good half- 
hour. Remove the meat and make 



a nice thick milk gravy and with 
mashed potatoes, well, there is no 
trick to eating it, either. 

Unfortunately, however, the deer 
is not composed entirely of tender- 
loin steaks, and when you have half 
a deer on your hands you must be 
prepared to use the rest of it as well. 

Roasting is the least desirable of 
all ways of cooking venison. It will 
tend to be very dry and quite tough. 
Even so, one can manage to have a 
good roast by using a very hot oven 
and basting continually with butter, 
and then letting it cook more slowly 
for a long time. Rare venison is 
most unappetizing. Pot roasting 
with vegetables is more satisfactory 
than oven roasting because of the 
characteristic dryness of this meat. 

RIB STEAK 

The rib steak can be cooked in 
the same way as the tenderloin, but 
the round steak will be juicier and 
more tender if started in the same 
way but cooked slowly in a covered 
pan for a longer time, and a very 
little water added from time to time, 
just enough to keep it from sticking 
to the pan. 

VENISON POT ROAST 

Tie the roast in shape. Cut slits 
in it and insert small bits of garlic 
or onion deep into the meat. If pos- 
sible, lard the roast well with strips 
of salt pork drawn through the 
meat. Heat a large piece of suet in 
a heavy kettle, and sear the roast 
well in it, turning until brown on 
all sides. Add a cupful of hot 
water, cover, and pot roast slowly 
until tender, which will take sev- 
eral hours. Add more water as 
needed, just enough to keep from 
burning. Remove meat, thicken 
gravy, and serve garnished with 
cress. Wild rice is a good accom- 
paniment. 



166 



Western Fish and Came 



A VENISON DINNER 

We usually have two or three 
venison dinners during the season 
and I have come to believe there are 
just certain kinds of food that must 
be served with venison to make the 
meal right. Because of the richness 
of the meat I find that plenty of 
fruits and vegetables will prevent 
that "stuffed" feeling afterward. 

Fruit Cup, Small Whole Wheat 

Wafers 
Venison Steak Milk Gravy 

Baked Potatoes 

Buttered String Beans 

Cabbage Slaw Sliced Tomatoes 

Small Serving of Fresh Sliced 

Peaches on Sponge Cake, 

Topped with Whipped 

Cream 

In cooking the steak for a large 
number I start about an hour and a 
half before dinner. I brown each 
piece of meat in hot fat in a skillet, 
and place it in my electric cooker 
where it continues to cook slowly 
and becomes very tender and juicy. 
If you do not have a cooker of this 
kind you may use a Dutch oven or a 
roasting pan in the oven with equal 
success, so long as you have it cov- 
ered tightly and cooking slowly. I 
cook eight skillets full for twelve 
persons. (There is no limit to the 
amount of steak they can eat if you 
have it ! ) Then as I finish the last 
pan I lift out the meat from the 
bottom of the cooker where it has 
been simmering for some time, and 
place the meat last cooked on the 
bottom and the meat first cooked on 
the top. In this way it all has a 
chance to get juicy on the bottom 
of the cooker. Add enough water to 
cover the bottom an inch or two, 
cover tightly, and let simmer slowly 
till dinner. 



In the meantime I make a nice 
thick milk gravy from the juice in 
the frying pan. When ready to 
serve I pile all this luscious brown 
tender steak on a large platter and 
then rinse every bit of juice out of 
the cooker and add it to the gravy. 
Such gravy is beyond description. 

VENISON MULLIGAN STEW 

No one should go through the 
venison season without experienc- 
ing at least one Mulligan Stew. 

For this you can use the tougher 
parts of the venison. Trim and cut 
in small pieces, sprinkle with salt 
and flour and sizzle in hot fat, pref- 
erably butter, until well browned; 
then place in your Dutch oven or 
whatever you use for stews. I use 
my electric cooker. Rinse out every 
drop of the gravy from the frying 
pan and pour over the meat in the 
cooker, cover, and let cook slowly. 
Next prepare the vegetables. On- 
ions, carrots, string beans, and to- 
matoes are the best. Sometimes I 
scrape off some fresh corn and add 
that, too. It is only a matter of 
choice about cutting up the vege- 
tables, but I think they are nicer if 
left whole or in large pieces. At 
any rate add them all to the meat, 
sprinkle with salt and add enough 
more water to fill about half full. 
Cover tightly and cook slowly for 
about 2 hours. 

A little while before you are 
ready to serve, remove all the vege- 
tables and meat, thicken the gravy 
slightly, and season it to taste. Then 
return the vegetables and meat to 
the gravy and keep all very hot until 
ready to serve. And again there is 
nothing that can beat fluffy mashed 
potatoes to go with this. A lettuce 
salad with French dressing would 
complete the meal for any one. 
FAY BRIGGS. 



Rabbit 



167 



BEAR AND MOOSE 

(Also Mountain Goat and Elk) 

Bear, moose, and mountain goat 
are black meat, very dry and tough, 
and hard to cook well. They need 
special treatment, marinating and 
the like. To cook them, a steam pres- 
sure cooker is almost a necessity. 
Cub bear meat is tender when very 
young. Moose is coarser than veni- 
son. Elk, on the other hand, is of 
finer texture and less gamy flavor 
than venison. It is cooked as venison. 

ROAST BEAR MEAT 

Cut roasts from carcass, and 
brown in hot fat to sear. Put into 
the steam pressure cooker with a 
cupful of hot water, and process 
at 5 to 10 pounds pressure from \ l /2 
to 2 hours. Add cut-up vegetables 
in the last half-hour. 

MOOSE MULLIGAN 

Cut the moose meat into pieces 
and broil. Brown an onion in hot 
fat in the steam pressure cooker, 
add the broiled meat, and process at 
5 to 10 pounds for 2 hours, adding 
vegetables the last half -hour. 

MOUNTAIN GOAT MEAT 

Prepare a marinade of vinegar, 
oil, salt, pepper, clove, and cinna- 
mon, somewhat similar to French 
dressing. Soak meat in this over 
night. Remove, wipe dry, and brown 
in hot fat in the bottom of the steam 
pressure cooker. Add an onion and 
a cupful of hot water, and cook 
under 5 to 10 pounds pressure for 
\y 2 to 2 hours, adding whole vege- 
tables, such as carrots, turnips, to- 
mato, and cabbage, the last 20 min- 
utes of cooking. Goat meat is never 
very good. 



MOUNTAIN SHEEP 

The delicate meat of mountain 
sheep is considered the finest of 
wild meats. It is light and delicate 
and should be roasted like lamb. 
Use an open roaster, basting fre- 
quently with water in the pan. If 
the meat is dry, use a little butter 
in the pan also. This meat is not 
woolly in flavor. Remove the caul 
as you would with lamb. Serve with 
mint jelly. 

RABBIT 

Rabbit is another meat that is 
certainly more prominent as an ar- 
ticle of food here in the West than 
it is in many other sections of the 
country. 

Domestic rabbit, sold in most 
Western markets, has delicately fla- 
vored white meat similar to that of 
chicken, and correspondingly rather 
dry. Wild rabbit has dark meat, 
with a rather gamy flavor. 

Domestic rabbit may be cooked 
in practically any way suitable for 
chicken, first cutting up the meat 
into serving-size pieces. 

RABBIT BAKED IN MILK 

1 rabbit, disjointed 

Yz cupful of flour 

1 teaspoon ful of salt 

1 teaspoonful of sage 

y 2 teaspoonful of black pepper 

Fat for frying 

3 strips of bacon 

3 cupfuls of white sauce 

Roll the pieces of rabbit in a mix- 
ture of the flour, sage, salt, and 
pepper, and brown nicely all over in 
3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of hot fat. 
Put into a casserole, pour well- 
seasoned white sauce around it, and 
lay the bacon strips over the top. 
Bake slowly (at 325) for 2 hours, 
or until meat is very tender. 



168 



Western Fish and Came 



FRICASSEED RABBIT 

Skin, disjoint, wash, dry, and 
dredge with flour, and place in the 
refrigerator until two hours before 
dinner time. At that time, brown 
the rabbit pieces in hot fat in a fry- 
ing pan, then add salt and pepper 
as desired, a small onion finely 
chopped, and pour around all a 
small can of evaporated milk ; cover 
and turn the flame down very low, 
so that it may slowly cook until the 
dinner is to be served. As the milk 
cooks away, it may be replaced from 
time to time with a little hot water. 
After removing the meat, thicken 
the liquid to make a tasty gravy. 
Serve with hot boiled rice. 



SQUIRRELS 

Skin, clean thoroughly, and wash 
squirrels. Wipe dry, and stuff with 
sausage meat or other dressing. Sew 
up or tie, and roast in a hot oven 
(450), basting with butter and 
water at first, and later with the 
liquid in the pan. Roast until brown 
and tender. Garnish with lemon and 
endive or parsley, and serve with 
jelly. 



REINDEER 

Reindeer, which is brought to the 
States from Alaska, is not an un- 
common meat in the West. It should 
be hung for at least two weeks be- 
fore being cooked, otherwise it will 
be very tough. The meat is very 
good, and easily prepared. Salt and 
pepper the chops, roll in salad oil, 
and broil ; or fry in frying-pan, in 
the same manner as any other kind 
of chop or steak. Serve with Maitre 
d'Hotel or some other fancy meat 
sauce. 



SAUCES FOR FISH 
AND CAME 

(Also for meats and entrees) 

Numerous sauces for fish and 
meats are popular, yes, famous, 
here in the West. Some of them are 
difficult to achieve with ordinary 
home supplies, while others, equally 
delicious, are simple indeed. The 
following recipes have been selected 
with a view to easy home construc- 
tion. First come cold sauces, for 
cocktails and such, then hot sauces. 

TARTAR SAUCE 

To serve with hot fish that is not 
too rich, mix mayonnaise with 
chopped sour pickles, capers, olives, 
parsley, and green onion or chives 
to suit your taste. A little tarragon 
vinegar is a good addition. Serve 
in crisp lettuce cups to garnish fried 
sole, scallops, and the like. 

SAUCES FOR HOT FISH 

A great number of sauces may be 
used with hot cooked fish. A simple 
and good egg sauce is made by add- 
ing chopped hard-cooked eggs to a 
well-seasoned cream sauce made 
medium thick; for another, add 
chopped chives or parsley to drawn 
butter. Prepared mustard stirred 
into a thin cream sauce makes a 
good simple sauce, which can be 
varied and dressed up in innumer- 
able ways. 

BROILED LOBSTER SAUCE 

Mix melted butter and chili sauce 
half and half, and add lemon juice, 
Worcestershire sauce, and chopped 
parsley to taste. Heat and serve hot 
with broiled lobster or any other hot 
cooked sea food. 



Fish and Came Sauces 



169 



SIMPLE COCKTAIL SAUCE 

(For Oysters, Crab, Shrimp, or 
Lobster) 

24 cupful of catsup 
54 cupful of chili sauce 
2 tablespoonfuls of grated horse- 
radish 

2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
Salt to taste 
Dash of Tabasco sauce if desired 

Mix well, and serve poured over 
the prepared sea food in glasses or 
green pepper cups. 



OREGON CRAB COCKTAIL 
SAUCE 

For 2 cupfuls of flaked crab meat 
allow 

Vz cupful of mayonnaise 
Juice of 2 limes or 1 lemon 
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley 
Salt and coarsely ground black 
pepper to taste 

Mix well together, chill, and serve 
in cocktail cups. (See also "Calavo 
Cocktail Sauce" in Index : it is ex- 
cellent with crab legs.) 



SAUCE FOR MIXED SEA-FOOD 
, COCKTAILS 

5/2 cupful of mayonnaise 
5^ cupful of French dressing 
54 cupful of catsup 
l /2 cupful of chili sauce 

1 tablespoonful of grated horse- 

radish 

2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 

1 teaspoonful of onion juice 

2 teaspoonf uls of chopped parsley 

Combine and chill. Mix with any 
one sea food or combination of sev- 
eral. Chopped celery may be added 
if wished. 



FOR ANY BROILED FISH 

Chopped parsley and lemon juice, 
mixed, poured over fish on platter. 



SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH 

Save the water in which fish was 
boiled, or cook the bones and trim- 
mings of fish with water and a lit- 
tle carrot, onion, and parsley, for 
flavoring; use in place of milk in 
recipe for white sauce. Add a little 
cream, and stir in 2 beaten egg 
yolks just before removing from 
fire. Season well and serve over 
boiled fish. 



"BEURRE NOIRE" 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar 

1 teaspoonful of lemon juice 

1 tablespoonful of minced parsley 

y<2. teaspoonful of salt 

54 teaspoonful of pepper 

Heat the butter in a frying-pan 
until light brown; add other ingre- 
dients, let boil up once, and pour 
over fish on platter. This brown 
butter sauce is nice for fried or 
broiled fish. 



MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE 

54 pound of butter 

Juice of 1 lemon 

1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 

Salt and pepper 

Work the butter in a bowl until 
creamy, but do not melt it. Blend in 
the salt and pepper and the lemon 
juice slowly, then work in the 
chopped parsley. Chill. This may be 
formed into balls or cut into cubes 
if desired, and dropped on to hot 
broiled fish when it is served. 



170 



Western Fish and Came 



HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 
(See Index) 

REALLY GOOD BROWN GRAVY 

Remove meat (beef, pork, lamb, 
or fowl) from roasting-pan. If 
there is a great deal of fat, pour it 
off into a bowl, then measure back 
into the roaster 2 tablespoonfuls of 
fat for each cupful of gravy de- 
sired. Add 1 tablespoon ful of flour 
for each cupful of gravy, blending 
and cooking together until lightly 
browned ; then measure in the liquid 
(water, stock, or milk, cold or 
warm) and cook, stirring until 
smooth, and continue cooking gently 
for at least 15 minutes. Strain if 
necessary, and season well with salt 
and pepper. (Taste to see that it is 
just right.) 



BARBECUE SAUCE 

(For Beef, Pork, or Lamb) 

y pound of butter 
}/2 pint of vinegar 
Yz teaspoonful of dry mustard 

1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 

2 tablespoonfuls of Worcester- 

shire sauce 

1 tablespoonful of chili sauce 
Juice of y lemon 

2 lemon slices 

1 teaspoonful of brown sugar 
y^ pod of red pepper (ground) 

Mix all the ingredients together; 
put over a low fire until the butter 
melts, then set near the fire to keep 
warm. Tie firmly on a stick several 
short pieces of cloth about 2 inches 
long. Dip this mop into the barbe- 
cue sauce and slap the roasting meat 
with it, so that the whole surface of 
the roast is basted in this way. Do 
this at intervals of 10 minutes dur- 
ing the entire process of cooking. 



WHITE SAUCE 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
1 cupful of milk 
Salt and pepper to taste 

In a sauce pan melt the butter, 
add the flour, and when the two are 
blended add milk and seasonings. 
Cook, being careful that the flour 
does not brown, stirring constantly 
until the milk reaches the boiling 
point, when the sauce should be 
taken from fire and beaten with the 
spoon until smooth and glossy. If 
it is necessary for the sauce to stand, 
place the sauce pan, covered, over 
hot water, or turn into a double 
boiler. 

PIMIENTO SAUCE 
(For Fish or Eggs) 

To each cupful of medium-thick 
white sauce add 2 pimientos which 
have been rubbed through a sieve; 
or some chopped parsley and lemon 
juice a teaspoonful of juice to each 
cupful of sauce to make Parsley 
Sauce. Serve at once. 

CHEESE SAUCE 

Add y?. cupful of grated Ameri- 
can cheese to each cupful of white 
sauce, to serve with timbales or 
macaroni and many other foods. 

ONION SAUCE 
(For Omelets and Meats) 

Add 1 cupful of boiled onions 
rubbed through a sieve, to l l /2 cup- 
fuls of white sauce to make a won- 
derfully good sauce to serve with 
an omelet, or poached eggs, or veal 
chops. Such dishes, with the puree 
of onion in the sauce, are known as 
"Omelet Soubise" or "Eggs Sou- 
bise," and so on. 



Fish and Came Sauces 



171 



Other Good Additions to White 

Sauce for Use with Meat, 

Fish, or Entrees 

Chopped Capers. 

Chopped Cooked Celery. 

Grated Cheese (season sauce with 

mustard and paprika). 
Chopped Hard-Cooked Egg. 
Flaked Lobster. 
Chopped Ripe Olives. 
Small Oysters (heated in their 

liquor, and skimmed before 

adding). 

Chopped Parsley. 
Tiny Cooked Shrimps (whole, or 

larger ones, chopped). 



BECHAMEL SAUCE 

Use y* cupful of stock and ^ 
cupful of cream instead of the milk 
in the recipe for white sauce. Much 
used with chicken. 



CREOLE SAUCE OR TOMATO 
SAUCE 

1 large onion 

3 tablespoonfuls of drippings or 

shortening 
1 clove of garlic 
Few sprigs of parsley, rosemary, 

thyme, and sweet marjoram 
1 No. 2^/2 can of tomato puree 

Slice the onion and fry in drip- 
pings with the clove of garlic 
chopped very fine. When a golden 
brown and almost tender add pars- 
ley and herbs and cook 5 minutes 
longer. Drain off fat and add to 
tomatoes in top of a double boiler. 
Chop onions and add to tomatoes. 
Salt to taste. Cook in double boiler 
at least 15 minutes to blend flavors. 
The longer this sauce cooks, the 
better it is. Serve with fish, omelets, 
or various entrees or vegetables as 
well as with meats. 



PINEAPPLE MINT SAUCE 

1 small can of crushed pineapple 

1 cupful of sugar 

Y^ cupful of water 

Green coloring 

6 drops of peppermint extract, or 

3 sprigs of fresh mint 

Drain the pineapple and pack 
into a cup. Add enough of the syrup 
to fill the cup. Put into a sauce pan 
with the sugar and water, and color 
to a good green. Simmer 10 min- 
utes, or until slightly thickened, 
then add the peppermint extract. If 
fresh mint is used, it should be sim- 
mered with the other ingredients. 
This will keep well if sealed, and is 
delicious on ice cream or to flavor 
Bavarian cream. It is equally good 
served cold with roast lamb, baked 
ham, or broiled chops. 



CURRANT MINT SAUCE 

Turn out a glass of currant jelly 
and break up with a fork. Stir in 
lightly a few gratings of orange 
rind and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of 
chopped mint leaves. Serve with 
wild duck or roast lamb or other 
meats. 



HORSERADISH SAUCES 

(For Ham or Beef) 

1. Add fresh grated horseradish 
(or drained horseradish from 
freshly opened bottle) to mayon- 
naise, to suit taste. 

2. Combine equal parts of 
whipped cream and mayonnaise, 
add prepared mustard and horse- 
radish to suit taste. 

3. Add mustard and horseradish 
to whipped cream, and season fur- 
ther with salt and lemon juice. This 
may be frozen in trays of electric 
refrigerator. 



172 



Western Fish and Came 



BAKED CRUSHED PINEAPPLE 

Drain juice from a No. 2 can of 
crushed pineapple, sweeten with % 
cupful of brown sugar, and add 1 
tablespoonful of vinegar. Put into 
a baking-dish, dot with butter, and 
bake until lightly browned. Good 
with rabbit and other game or 
meats. 



ITALIAN DRESSING FOR 
COLD MEATS 

Mix chopped hard-cooked egg 
with equal amount of mixture of 
minced parsley, thyme, and chives, 
and add enough French dressing to 
make it spread easily. There should 
be a suspicion of garlic in the 
French dressing. 



MINT SAUCE 

To accompany roast lamb, mince 
Y^ cupful of mint leaves, add 1 
tablespoonful of powdered sugar 
and y 2 cupful of mild vinegar, and 
let stand in a warm place for half 
an hour. Serve in a sauce boat. 

FRESH MUSHROOM SAUCE 

Wash mushrooms quickly (do 
not soak in water) ; do not peel un- 
less caps are tough or discolored. 
Slice lengthwise if large, or cut in 
halves if small, sprinkle with lemon 
juice if desired, and cook gently in 
an aluminum or enamel sauce pan 
for 5 minutes in plenty of butter. 
Sprinkle with flour, mix well, add 
stock, consomme, water, or milk, 
and cook, stirring, until smooth. 
Season very well, and serve hot. 







A pleasant blending of foods as well as of peoples 
characterizes the West. Spanish and Mexican cook- 
ing is a heritage from the days of the Dons chiles, 
frijoles, tamales the list is long indeed. (And are 
you aware that true Spanish and true Mexican 
dishes are beautifully flavored, beautifully cooked, 
reeking not at all of garlic or over-hot peppers? It 
is the pseudo-Spanish cookery that brings tears of 
pain to the eyes.) 

Italy contributes countless good things, particu- 
larly pastes in wide variety (donatelli, tagliarini, 
vermicelli, spaghet', and all the rest of them) and 
flavorous sauces to go with them. Japan brings us 
Sukiyaki, the making of which is as artistic a per- 
formance as is the arrangement of a bouquet. China 
furnishes Eggs Foo Yung and Chow Mein, if not 
Chop Suey. Russia, France, Germany, the British 
Isles, all contribute graciously to the interest and 
variety of All -Western cookery. 



174 



Favorite Foreign Dishes 



ALBONDICOS 
(Spanish Meat Balls) 

1 pound of ground round steak 
1 cupful of bread, 2 or 3 days old 
1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 
1 tablespoonful of chopped green 

pepper 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
% teaspoonful of ground oregano 
Pepper and paprika 
1 egg, beaten 

1 can of tomato soup or Spanish 

sauce 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

1 can of chicken soup or 1 cupful 
of stock 

Mix steak, bread which has been 
moistened with water (but not wet), 
onion, green pepper, seasonings, and 
egg. Flour the hands and form the 
mixture into tiny balls about the 
size of a quarter. Put the butter 
into a kettle, add about a tablespoon- 
ful each of green pepper and chop- 
ped onion, and let saute a few min- 
utes. Add the tomato soup or Span- 
ish sauce, let cook a few minutes, 
then add the chicken soup or stock 
(this may be made with bouillon 
cubes) ; when boiling, drop the meat 
balls in. If necessary, add more 
hot water to keep the balls covered 
while cooking; boil slowly 1^2 
hours. Have hot boiled rice ready ; 
arrange it as a border around edge 
of platter, or use a ring mold to 
shape the rice, and turn out in a 
deep-rimmed chop plate. Put the 
meat balls and gravy in the center 
of the rice ring, and serve, garnished 
with parsley and pimiento. Serves 
six or seven persons. 

CHILES RELLENOS 
(Stuffed Peppers, Mexican Style) 

Roast 8 green chili peppers until 
skins are blistered, then skin, and 
remove seeds and core ; or, which is 
easier, use the canned chiles which 
do not need peeling. Split down the 



side, and insert a long, thin slice of 
mild cheese American or Monterey 
Jack is good. Make a batter ex- 
actly as you would make a puffy 
omelet, adding to the yolks about 
a tablespoonful of flour for each 
egg used, and folding in the egg 
whites beaten very stiff. Dip each 
cheese-filled chili into this fluffy 
batter, and drop into deep hot fat 
(375) ; before attempting to turn 
the puffy balls, dip spoonfuls of the 
hot fat over the top of each to sear 
the surface. When golden brown 
in color, take up, drain, and serve 
at once ; or, strange to say, you may 
prepare them hours in advance and 
let them get cold, then reheat just 
before serving by dropping them 
into a thin, well-seasoned tomato 
broth or bouillon. They will puff up 
and be tender and delicious. 

BITKI 

(Russian Meat Balls) 

l /$ loaf of white bread 

Milk 

y 2 pound of chopped beef or veal 

Salt and pepper 

Nutmeg 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

2 onions 

24 cupful of sour cream 

Discard the crust from the bread 
and set it to soak in as much milk 
as it will absorb. When it has stood 
15 minutes, press out the super- 
fluous milk from the bread, using 
the hands ; mix it with the chopped 
meat, add salt and pepper and an 
almost imperceptible dash of nut- 
meg. Form into round cakes and 
fry in the butter along with finely 
sliced onions. When the onions and 
meat balls are well browned, add the 
sour cream. Let bubble up once or 
twice, and serve with the sauce 
poured over the meat balls. If the 
cream is not sour enough, add the 
juice of half a lemon. 



Chow Mein 



175 



CHILI CON CARNE 
(Quick method) 

1 pound of ground beef 

1 tablespoonful of shortening 

1 chopped onion 

1 clove of garlic 

1 can of oven-baked kidney beans 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Dash of pepper 

y^ teaspoonful of chili powder 

1 can of cream of tomato soup 

1 cupful of grated cheese 

Brown the meat in the shorten- 
ing, then add the chopped onion 
and garlic. To this add the kidney 
beans, tomato soup, and seasonings, 
and heat thoroughly. Just before 
serving top with cheese and put 
under the broiler to melt. 



CHOP SUEY 

Homemade chop suey is highly 
recommended by extension special- 
ists at State College of Washington 
for three reasons: it can be made 
in large enough quantities for sev- 
eral servings, is almost a meal in 
itself, and improves with each suc- 
cessive cooking. 

2 pounds of lean pork, cut in cubes 

1 tablespoonful of fat 

2 cupfuls of chopped celery 
2 cupfuls of sliced onions 

1 teaspoonful of salt 
34 teaspoonful of pepper 
y-2 cupful of rice, uncooked 

Brown the pork in the fat. Add 
the celery, onions, salt, pepper, and 
1/2 cupful of water, and simmer un- 
til the pork and vegetables are ten- 
der. If desired, thicken the mixture 
with 1 tablespoonful of flour mixed 
with enough water to make a paste, 
about 3 minutes before removing it 
from the fire. Boil the rice for 
about 20 minutes, or until tender, in 



2 quarts of water to which 1 tea- 
spoonful of salt has been added. 
Drain the rice, and serve it hot with 
the meat and vegetable mixture. 
When a cabbage salad, whole wheat 
bread and butter, apple sauce, gin- 
gerbread, and milk for the children 
are served with the chop suey, a 
well-balanced and satisfying meal is 
the result. 



CHOW MEIN 

Shred \y 2 pounds of lean pork 
and fry it for 15 minutes in % cup- 
ful of vegetable oil. Add I*/* cupfuls 
of chopped onions, and 3 minutes 
later stir in \y 2 cupfuls each of 
bean sprouts, shredded celery, and 
mushrooms. Cook 10 minutes, then 
for additional seasoning add 1^ 
tablespoonfuls of molasses, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of soy sauce, and 1 cup- 
ful of stock. The vegetables should 
retain much of their original crisp- 
ness. 

While this is cooking, boil 2 cup- 
fuls of medium width noodles in a 
large amount of salted water. When 
tender, pour into a colander, shak- 
ing occasionally to let steam escape. 
When well drained, spread out to 
dry before frying a few at a time 
in deep hot fat. The garnish for the 
dish may be prepared by beating 2 
eggs slightly and pouring them over 
1 tablespoonful of oil in a hot fry- 
ing-pan. Cook slowly until set and 
dry, then turn out on a board and 
cut into long, narrow strips. Green 
onions, cut likewise, make a good 
combination with the eggs for gar- 
nishing. 

To serve, place the fried noodles 
on a large platter, pour vegetables 
over them, and garnish with eggs 
and onions. With the chow mein 
serve steamed rice, tea, and Chinese 
candies. 



176 



Favorite Foreign Dishes 



CURRIED LOBSTER 

1 lobster (1 to l l / 2 pound size) 

boiled, meat cut in dice 
1 cocoanut, grated 

1 quart of milk 

2 scant tablespoonfuls of curry 

powder 

1 large onion, chopped 
1 finger fresh ginger root, chopped 

1 small piece of chopped garlic 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
2 tablespoonfuls of butter 

Grate cocoanut. Heat milk to 
blood heat. Pour over cocoanut, and 
let stand 3 or 4 hours, then strain 
through cheesecloth. (Discard co- 
coanut.) Chop onion, garlic, and 
ginger, and fry in butter for 15 
minutes, not too brown. Put in the 
curry powder and some more butter, 
and fry 5 minutes. Mix 2 table- 
spoonfuls of butter and flour and 
add, letting it cook until butter melts 
nicely, then add strained milk and 
cook, stirring until it is of the con- 
sistency of custard, then strain. A 
small piece of chili pepper chopped 
fine (after taking out seeds) is nice 
if you like it hot. After straining 
sauce add lobster, and put into 
double boiler to reheat. Do not let 
boil again or it will curdle. Good 
served on toast, or with rice or 
spaghetti, cooked plain. 

CURRIED SHRIMPS AND 
OYSTERS 

This is truly an excellent curry, 
and well worth the slight trouble of 
making. It makes a most attractive 
Sunday night supper, served with 
all the traditional accompaniments 
as directed. Lobster, crab, chicken, 
veal, lamb, or other mild-flavored 
meats or fish may be substituted for 
the shrimps and oysters in this 
recipe. 

First, scald together in a double 
boiler y 2 pint of milk (half cocoa- 



nut milk may be used), 1 bay leaf 
and a sprig of fresh thyme, or pinch 
of dry thyme. 

Heat together in a frying-pan 2 l / 2 
tablespoonfuls (*/j of a cube) of 
butter, 1 clove of garlic, chopped 
fine, and 4 young onions, or 2 slices 
of a large onion, chopped fine. When 
onion is browned lightly, then strain 
the flavored butter into the scalded 
milk. Mix in a bowl 1 teaspoonful 
of cornstarch, 2 teaspoonfuls of 
curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of 
chutney. Add the hot milk gradu- 
ally to this mixture, stirring; then 
return all to double boiler and let 
cook 20 minutes or more, in order 
to cook the cornstarch thoroughly. 
Add ]/2 pint of cream and let stand 
until just before ready to use. 
(Curry is always better if made the 
day before it is used, and reheated 
when the sea food is added, just 
before serving.) At that time add 1 
large cupful each of picked shrimps 
and oysters, or the meat of a 2- 
pound Western lobster. If Califor- 
nia oysters are used, cook 2 minutes 
after adding; if Eastern oysters, 
cook 3 or 4 minutes. Serve with 
boiled spaghetti or noodles, accom- 
panied by chopped peanuts; grated 
fresh cocoanut ; broiled bacon, chop- 
ped ; pickled onions ; chopped dry 
ginger; chutney; and Bombay duck 
if desired all arranged in a com- 
partment relish dish. This makes 
a very pretty service. 

EGGS FOO YUNG 

(Chinese) 

2 stalks of celery, chopped 
y 2 medium-sized onion, minced 
l / 2 pound of pork, chopped fine 
% pound of bean sprouts 
4 water chestnuts 
12 eggs 

Chop separately the celery, on- 
ions, and pork. Fry the pork in 



Frijoles 



177 



salad oil until brown. Take up, and 
in the same fat fry vegetables until 
yellow and limp; add 1 teaspoonful 
of salt and the cooked pork, mix 
together and cook for 3 or 4 min- 
utes longer, then take up. Beat eggs, 
and add to them the pork and vege- 
table mixture, and seasonings. Fry 
2 tablespoonfuls of the mixture at 
a time, folding over like an omelet 
to serve. A sauce consisting of 1 
tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar, and 1 tablespoonful 
of soy sauce heated together may 
be served with this. Serves twenty. 



ENCHILADAS 

Filling 

2 cupfuls of ground onions 
2 tablespoonfuls of lard 

2 pounds of hamburger 

3 teaspoonfuls of chili powder 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

2 cupfuls of tomato pulp 
YZ pound of cheese 

Tortillas 

\y 2 cupfuls of flour 
% teaspoonful of salt 

Brown onions in lard, add ham- 
burger, chili powder, and 1 teaspoon- 
ful of salt and cook until hambur- 
ger is done. Add tomatoes and 
cheese, and set on back of stove to 
simmer. Now take the flour and 
54 teaspoonful of salt, and mix with 
just enough water to make a stiff 
dough : divide into 12 parts and roll 
each one out on a floured board as 
thin as possible, and bake on a grid- 
dle, not too brown. When all are 
baked, stack up the cakes and put 
them to steam between 2 thick- 
nesses of damp cloth, or in a covered 
pan in the oven until ready to use. 
Next, make the sauce, as follows: 



Sauce 

2 onions, ground fine 

\y 2 tablespoonfuls of shortening 

2 cupfuls of tomato juice 

2 tablespoonfuls of red chili 

powder mixed with water 
1 tablespoonful of salt 
y 2 cupful of flour 

Brown onions in shortening, add 
tomato juice, chili powder, salt, and 
y 2 cupful of water, and cook until 
onions are done. Then thicken with 
y 2 cupful of flour mixed to a paste 
with water. 

Now take each tortilla, dip it in 
the sauce, and fill with the meat 
mixture, then roll it up like a jelly 
roll and put it in an oblong pan. 
Pans 7XH will hold 6 enchiladas 
each. Put a slice of cheese on top 
of each enchilada and cover with 
sauce, then put into a moderate 
oven (375) to heat. These are espe- 
cially good for luncheons, accom- 
panied by a small serving of 
chopped green onions. 



FRIJOLES 

(Mexican Beans) 

1 pint of red beans 
\y 2 cloves of garlic 

2 medium-sized onions, chopped 

3 green peppers 

2 teaspoonfuls of salt 

y 2 teaspoonful of black pepper 

1 tablespoonful of bacon fat 

Wash and soak beans for several 
hours, then boil gently for 2 hours. 
Drain and rinse. Put fat in frying- 
pan ; add chopped onion, garlic, pep- 
pers, salt, and black pepper ; let cook 
5 minutes ; then add to beans in pot 
with enough water to cover. Let 
boil slowly until thoroughly soft, 
but not mushy. Add hot water, if 
necessary, during the cooking. Good 
served with corn bread and green 
salad, with fresh fruit for dessert. 



178 



Favorite Foreign Dishes 



ITALIAN MACARONI 

1 cupful of oil or other shortening 
1 pound of round steak, cut in inch 
squares 

1 onion, minced 

2 cloves of garlic, minced 

2 bell peppers, minced 

Y% pound of dried mushrooms 
1 can of tomato paste, with equal 

amount of water 
>^ cupful of chili sauce 
1 pound of macaroni or spaghetti 

(bow-tie) 
Parmesan cheese 

Fry the meat in the oil, and add 
the shredded onion, garlic and bell 
peppers, and the mushrooms, which 
have been washed well, soaked for 
half an hour, then cooked until ten- 
der (about 30 minutes) and drained. 
Cook until browned nicely, then add 
tomato paste, water, chili sauce, and 
mushroom liquor, and simmer for 1 
hour. Boil macaroni in salted water, 
drain, and arrange on a large plat- 
ter ; pour the sauce over it, sprinkling 
with cheese and garnishing with 
parsley, and serve at once. 

ITALIAN SAUCE FOR PASTES 

1 large onion, minced 
1 clove of garlic, minced 

3 tablespoonf uls of oil 

1 pound of veal steak, cut in small 

bits 

1 small can of tomato puree 
1 can of mushroom sauce 
1 cupful of chopped dry or canned 

mushrooms 
1 tablespoonful of grated cheese 

Fry onion and garlic in oil until 
brown. Chop veal steak and brown 
in with onions. Add tomato puree 
and mushroom sauce and cook for 
few minutes. Then add mushrooms 
and grated cheese and let cook 
slowly for half an hour. This sauce 
is used with any kind of macaroni 
or ravioli. For macaroni, put a layer 
of cooked macaroni in pan, then a 
layer of sauce, and so on until all 



ingredients are used, and sprinkle 
grated cheese on top. For ravioli, 
put ravioli on platter after cooking, 
with sauce on top. Grated cheese 
may also be used. 

MINESTRONE 

*4 pound of bacon (not sliced) 
^ small clove of garlic 
2 sprigs of parsley 

2 quarts of soup stock 

Y$ cupful of dried kidney beans 
1 small onion 

3 small carrots 

1 cupful of shredded cabbage 

1 stalk of celery 

Salt and pepper 

1 cupful of spaghetti (broken up) 

Grated Parmesan cheese 

Cut off half of the bacon and 
chop it as fine as possible (or grind 
it) with the garlic and parsley. Put 
the remaining piece into a kettle 
with the soup stock and the beans, 
which have soaked overnight in cold 
water. Slice and peel the onion and 
carrots and add them to the soup 
with the chopped bacon and garlic 
mixture, the shredded cabbage, 
chopped celery, salt, and pepper. 
Boil in a covered kettle very gently 
for \y 2 hours; then add the raw 
spaghetti and cook for 45 minutes 
longer. When the bacon is very 
soft, take it out, cut it in ribbons, 
and put it back into the soup. A 
bowl of grated Parmesan cheese 
should be served with this soup. 

POLENTA 

3 cupf uls of water 
Salt 

1 cupful of yellow corn meal 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter 
1 tablespoonful of flour 

1 cupful of milk 
Grated Parmesan cheese 
Meat sauce 

Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to the 
water and let it boil ; pour the corn 
meal in gradually, so that the water 



Ravioli 



179 



will not stop boiling, and cook to a 
stiff mush, stirring all the time. 
Pour out on a bread board and, 
when cold, cut down in 1-inch slices 
and then into squares. Make a thin 
cream sauce of the butter, flour, 
and milk, seasoning to taste. But- 
ter a baking-dish and line it with 
the cubes of mush ; moisten with a 
few tablespoonfuls of the cream 
sauce and sprinkle with the grated 
cheese; then pour in about ^ cup- 
ful of the meat sauce made as di- 
rected below. Repeat until the dish 
is full, letting the cheese be the top 
layer. Dot with small bits of butter 
and bake in a moderate oven (375) 
to a rich brown. Serve with the 
following meat sauce poured over it. 

Meat Sauce 

% pound of raw round steak 
4 strips of raw bacon 

1 small onion 

Y-2, clove of garlic 

2 sprigs of parsley 
1 small carrot 

1 tablespoonful of salad oil 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour 
1 pint of soup stock 
Salt and pepper 

Put the steak, vegetables, and 
bacon through a meat grinder. Heat 
the salad oil in a sauce pan and add 
the meat mixture to it. When a 
deep brown, add the flour and 
brown a minute longer; mix well 
and pour in the stock. Season with 
salt and pepper and let simmer half 
an hour or until the sauce is the 
consistency of a rich gravy. Pour 
over the Polenta, or over spaghetti, 
or macaroni, without straining. 

RAVIOLI 

Ravioli are small squares or tri- 
angles of noodle dough filled usu- 
ally with a mixture of meat, spin- 
ach, and cheese, though the meat is 
sometimes omitted. First, prepare 
the filling. 



Meat Filling 

1 clove of garlic, minced 
Y$ cupful of oil 

1 pound of hamburger 

y^ pound of pork sausage 

24 cupful of grated Roman cheese 

24 cupful of cooked spinach, chopped 

24 cupful of bread crumbs 

Salt and pepper to taste 

2 eggs, beaten 

Fry the garlic in the oil until 
tender, then add the ground meat and 
cook, stirring, until it loses its color. 
(Two cupfuls of chopped leftover 
cooked beef may be substituted for 
the hamburger.) Add the other in- 
gredients and mix to a smooth paste. 

Noodle Dough 

3 cupfuls of flour 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

2 eggs, beaten 

54 cupful of water 

Sift the salt and flour in a bowl. 
Add water to eggs, stir into flour, 
and mix well, then knead on a 
floured board until smooth. Let 
stand 15 minutes to render dough 
elastic, then roll out very thin and 
cut into long strips, about 2y 2 to 3 
inches wide. About half an inch in 
from the lower edge of a strip dot 
small mounds of the filling, an inch 
apart. Fold the upper half of the 
strip of dough over the filling and 
press together at edges and between 
mounds of filling, using a knife 
handle; cut into squares so that 
there is a filling in each square, and 
press edges again to be sure they 
are tightly closed. Let stand sev- 
eral hours to dry. 

To cook, drop a few at a time 
into boiling salted water or soup 
stock, and boil rapidly for 20 min- 
utes. Remove with skimmer, drain 
thoroughly, arrange on platter, pour 
hot tomato sauce, gravy, or meat 
sauce over all, sprinkle with more 
cheese, and serve at once. 



180 



Favorite Foreign Dishes 



RISOTTO 

2 small onions 

3 tablespoonfuls of salad oil 
2 cupfuls of uncooked rice 
Salt and pepper 

Chicken broth 

Y% teaspoonful of Spanish saffron 

Giblets of chicken 

Y$ pound of fresh mushrooms 

1 tablespoonful of butter 
Grated Parmesan cheese 

Chop 1 onion very fine, or put it 
through a meat grinder. Let it cook 
in the salad oil until soft and yellow. 
Wash the rice and add it to the oil 
and onion, stirring constantly so that 
it will not stick. Season with pepper 
and salt and add boiling broth, a 
little at a time, until the rice is 
cooked tender, yet not too soft, with 
each grain separate. Soak the saf- 
fron in a little cold water and add 
to the rice. Chop the cooked giblets 
and let them brown with chopped 
onion and sliced mushrooms in a 
sauce pan with the butter. Season 
with salt and pepper and put on top 
of the rice, which has been turned 
on a hot platter. Serve with grated 
Parmesan cheese. The broth for 
this Risotto can be made by simmer- 
ing in water the giblets, neck, and 
tips of wings of a chicken that is to 
be roasted, or canned chicken broth 
may be used. 

SUKIYAKI 

(Japanese) 

2 pounds of meat (pork, beef, or 

chicken) sliced very thin 
2 good-sized onions, sliced very thin 
2 or 3 green onions, tops and all, 

cut in pieces 
1 small can of mushrooms 

1 small can of bamboo sprouts 
YZ cupful of diluted soy sauce 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 
1 cake of soy-bean curd 

Place a little of the fat from the 
meat in a frying-pan and let sim- 



mer. Add meat and cook, turning 
it over and over, for about 5 min- 
utes; now add sliced onions, mush- 
rooms, and bamboo sprouts, keeping 
each food in a separate pile. Pour 
in the soy sauce and the sugar and 
let cook about 10 minutes. Add 
the soy-bean curd which has been 
cut into cubes, cook for a few 
minutes, and serve with hot boiled 
rice. Other vegetables, such as 
green peppers, celery, peas, and bean 
sprouts, may be added besides the 
onions. 



TACLIARINI 

Tagliarini is the fine, ribbon-like 
variety of Italian paste. Cooked 
and served with the following sauce 
it is an excellent supper dish. 

Peel and slice 6 fairly large on- 
ions into a frying-pan and cover 
with olive oil. Let them fry down 
well, then season with 1 teaspoonful 
of salt and ^2 teaspoonful of pa- 
prika. Add to them 

2 quarts of tomatoes 

^2 teaspoonful of celery salt 

2 cloves of garlic, chopped 

2 bay leaves 

2 /z cupful of dried mushrooms 

soaked in hot water, and 

chopped 
1 teaspoonful of chili pepper 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

1/2 teaspoonful of paprika 

2 cupfuls of stock or gravy 

Let the sauce boil gently until 
thick. Boil tagliarini in salted water, 
as you cook spaghetti. When ready 
to serve, pour the sauce over the 
cooked tagliarini on a large hot 
platter, cover the top with grated 
Parmesan cheese, and put into a hot 
oven (450) until the cheese begins 
to melt. Pass a dish of grated cheese 
at table. 



Tamal Perdido 



181 



TAMALES 

When corn husks are used, steam 
them so they will be easily handled. 
Then keep tamales in a steamer to 
have them hot. Vegetable parchment 
paper may be used in place of the 
husks. 

2 pounds of boiling beef 

\y 2 pounds of pork steak 

Water to cover 

Corn meal to thicken liquid until 

hard to stir 
Salt to taste 
Cayenne to taste 
Ripe olives 

Boil meat together until it will 
fall to pieces, then remove from 
broth and season broth well. (The 
corn meal will require more salt 
than the broth alone will..) Stir in 
the meal, the shredded meat, and 
olives, and cook, stirring occasion- 
ally, for half an hour or longer. 
Spread on a corn husk, wrap, and 
tie with raffia. Serve with catsup. 
If tamales are liked very hot, the 
needed cayenne can be added to the 
catsup, but it is better not to put too 
much in with the corn meal. Serves 
six. 



CORN TAMALE PIE 

1 large can of golden bantam corn 
1 large can of tamales 

1 small can of tomato sauce 

2 eggs, beaten 

Salt and pepper to taste 

Mix corn, tamales, tomato sauce, 
and beaten eggs thoroughly together. 
Salt and pepper to taste. Butter an 
oven-ware or aluminum baking-dish 
and put mixture into it. Bake in a 
moderate oven (375) for 30 or 40 
minutes, or until the center of the 
tamale pie is firm. Grated cheese 



may be sprinkled over the top be- 
fore baking for a more tasty crust. 
With buttered rolls, celery or cold 
artichokes with mayonnaise, coffee, 
and dessert, this makes a simple and 
delicious picnic luncheon. 

TAMAL PERDIDO 

(Lost Tamale) 

2 cupfuls of chopped leftover 

roast pork 
1 chopped onion 
1 small piece of chopped garlic 

1 tablespoonful of shortening 

2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce 
1 teaspoonful of chili powder 

1 sliced pickle 

Y^ cupful of raisins 

1 teaspoonful of sugar 
Y-2. cupful of water 

Fry meat, onion, and garlic in 
the shortening until golden brown; 
add the tomato sauce and chili pow- 
der, and mix well with the gravy 
left over from the roast pork. Then 
add the sliced pickle, raisins, sugar, 
and water, making a gravy, adding 
more water if necessary. Let cook 
while you make the following: 

Pie Crust 

2 cupfuls of white corn meal 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
1 tablespoonful of shortening 
% cupful of flour 

Mix corn meal, baking powder, 
salt, and shortening with boiling 
water to make a thick paste. When 
well mixed, sift in the flour grad- 
ually, adding more hot water when 
it becomes too thick. Oil a deep pie 
plate well and cover it thoroughly 
with the paste. Pour the meat into 
it, cover it with more paste, making 
a pie, and put into a moderate oven 
(375) for half an hour or longer. 



82 



Favorite Foreign Dishes 



HOMINY TAMALE PIE 

24 pound of round steak 

3 tablespoonfuls of shortening 

1 small onion, cut fine 

6 level teaspoonf uls of chili 

powder 

3 tablespoonfuls of flour 
A little water 
1 teaspoon ful of salt 
1 quart of hominy 
Small can of ripe olives, stoned 

and chopped 

Heat the shortening in a frying- 
pan, and in it saute the chopped 
onion. Cut the meat in small pieces 
and brown slightly with the onion. 
Add a small amount of water 



and let the meat cook gently until 
tender. 

Then add the chili powder and 
flour mixed to a paste with more 
water, and cook, stirring until 
smooth. Let boil a few minutes, 
adding a little more water if neces- 
sary to make a good gravy. 

Put the hominy through the meat 
grinder, and add a little salt. Put a 
layer of the meat mixture into an oiled 
baking-dish, then a layer of hominy, 
sprinkling a few chopped olives on 
each layer, and alternating until the 
ingredients are all used. Have the top 
layer of hominy. Bake half an hour 
in a moderately hot oven (400). 




Canned foods of excellent quality and limitless 
variety are available in every market at such low 
prices that we ordinarily rely largely on them for 
out-of -season enjoyment of certain products. It is, 
however, so interesting and so satisfying to put 
away gleaming jars of choice preserves and jams 
and jellies and pickles made from our favorite 
Western fruits and vegetables that we are in- 
cluding this chapter. The suggestions as to where 
to send for complete canning information will be 
appreciated by those whose favorite cooking hobby 
is canning. The directions for jelly-making are 
complete, and applicable to all Western fruits. 



184 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 

One can take a good many liber- 
ties with jams, conserves, and pre- 
serves, and be fairly sure of good 
results. Jellies, however, require 
some science as well as art. For 
that reason a fairly complete discus- 
sion of what to do and what not to 
do in jelly-making is given. These 
rules may be applied to all fruits, 
thus making definite recipes unnec- 
essary. Familiarize yourself with 
this information and you will be 
able to make successful jelly from 
any fruit. 

Jelly Rules and Regulations 

For successful jelly-making, three 
things are necessary: pectin, acid, 
and sugar. 

Either cane or beet sugar may be 
used with equally good results. So 
far as acidity is concerned, a tart- 
tasting fruit or one that is not fully 
ripe is likely to be best. A little 
lemon juice J/ to 1 tablespoon ful 
for each cupful of juice, added 
when sugar is put in will make up 
the deficiency for fruits lacking in 
acid. 

Pectin, the jellying substance 
found naturally in certain fruits, or 
formed when the fruit is boiled 
with water, varies considerably in 
amount in different fruits. Under- 
ripe fruit contains more pectin than 
ripe fruit. Over-ripe fruit, or fruit 
such as apples held for several 
months, will not yield sufficient pec- 
tin for good jelly. It is always ad- 
visable to test the pectin content of 
juice for jelly, though of course 
good jelly can be and is made with- 
out this precaution. The test is most 
valuable in deciding the proportion 
of sugar to use for each cupful of 
juice. There are various tests, the al- 
cohol test being probably the simplest. 



Alcohol Test for Amount of 
Pectin 

Place 1 teaspoonful of cooked, 
cooled juice in a shallow cup or 
dish. Add 1 teaspoonful of alcohol 
(grain, wood, or denatured). Mix 
by gently tipping the cup. 

a) In excellent jellying juice, the 
pectin precipitates almost at once so 
that practically all of the juice be- 
comes solid with little or no liquid 
left. (For such juices, allow 1 cup- 
ful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice.) 

b) In good jellying juice, the pec- 
tin precipitates quickly in 2 or 3 
large masses, but the volume is still 
good. (Allow 2 /z cupful of sugar 
to 1 cupful of juice.) 

c) In fair to poor jellying juice, 
a few lumps of jelly form, or there 
may be only a few flakes with con- 
siderable liquid. (Allow 2 /z cupful 
of sugar to 1 cupful of juice.) 

For fruits deficient in pectin, the 
addition of commercial fruit pectin 
is recommended. For best results, 
follow recipes supplied with the 
bottle or package. 

Steps in Jelly-Making 

1. Preparation of fruit. Wash, 
trim off any unsound portions, and 
cut into small pieces. Do not ordi- 
narily discard cores, peelings, or 
seeds. 

2. Quantity of water to use. For 
soft juice fruits : none, or y^ as 
much as fruit; for berries with 
tough skins : about ^ as much as 
fruit ; for hard fruits : water to 
cover well (more may have to be 
added if boiled too rapidly). Cover 
kettle. 

3. Boiling the fruit. Do not cook 
slowly or over-cook. Cook fruit at 
moderately rapid rate until quite 
soft usually less than half an hour. 



Jellies and Preserves 



185 



4. Draining the juice. Pour into 
flannel jelly bag. There should be 
enough liquid so that it is fairly well 
drained within 30 minutes. Do not 
squeeze. It is unnecessary and un- 
wise to let bag drain all night, as 
the juice may ferment. 

5. Second and third extractions. 
If an excellent or good pectin test 
is secured, return pulp to kettle, 
cover with water and repeat the 
boiling and draining process. Be 
sure there is sufficient liquid to 
drain freely. 

6. Handling the juice. It is best 
to combine the extractions since the 
last is likely to be lacking in acid 
and flavor. Measure the combined 
juices. Determine quantity of sugar 
as based upon result of alcohol pec- 
tin test. 

7. Adding the sugar. For small 
amounts of juice (4 cupfuls or less) 
no difference in the jelly is noted if 
sugar is hot or cold when added to 
the boiling juice. (Sugar may be 
readily heated in a double boiler, if 
desired.) For best results, jelly 
should be boiled rapidly, so a broad 
utensil is desirable. It is never wise 
to make more than 6 cupfuls of 
juice into jelly at one time. 

8. Tests for "doneness" Spoon 
or sheet test : Dip the spoon into 
the boiling juice, then raise it above 
the liquid, and let the juice run off 
from the side of the spoon. When 
the jelly is done, the juice will be 
so heavy that the last portion will 
sheet off, or break off in sheets, in- 
stead of trickling in drops as at 
first. Take the jelly from the fire 
instantly when this point is reached, 
as further cooking will spoil it. 
Temperature test : If a candy ther- 
mometer is used as a test, the jelly 
will as a rule be done when the 
thermometer reads 214 degrees to 
220 degrees F. 



9. When shall jelly be skimmed f 
At the end of the cooking process, 
just before pouring into the glasses, 
skim off the scum which rises to the 
top. This causes less waste from 
skimming than when the jelly is 
skimmed constantly during the cook- 
ing process. A rubber plate-scraper 
is much more convenient than a 
spoon to use in skimming the syrup. 

10. How shall glasses be pre- 
pared? Put glasses and covers into 
a pan of cold water so that the water 
completely covers them and let this 
water slowly come to a boil. Remove 
from the fire and let stand in the hot 
water until the jelly is nearly done. 
Then fish them out of the hot water 
with a spoon or fork, handling them 
as little as possible; drain, upside 
down, and let them dry themselves. 
Pour the hot jelly into the hot 
glasses, up to l /2 to 24 inches from 
the top never fuller. Keep the 
covers in a clean place until the 
jelly has set. Neglecting to boil the 
glasses may cause fermentation of 
the jelly after a few weeks, in some 
cases. Scalding the glasses with hot 
water is not so good a precaution 
against this undesirable result as 
boiling them. 

11. How shall the jelly be cov- 
ered? Cut or shave paraffin into 
a small sauce pan or old coffee pot, 
melt over low heat, let heat for few 
moments without smoking (be care- 
ful not to over-heat, or it may burst 
into flame), pour over cool jelly in 
a > -inch-thick layer. Cool. Cover 
jars, and store in a dry cool place. 

Jelly Difficulties and Their 
Causes 

1. Dark, Cloudy Jelly 

Juice squeezed rather than al- 
lowed to drip. 

Juice not strained through 
thick cloths. 

Over-cooking. 



186 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



2. Soft Jelly 

Juice poor in pectin because 
too ripe or unsuitable for 
jelly-making. 

Too much sugar. 

Insufficient cooking. 

3. Stiff Jelly 

Too little sugar. 
Too long cooking. 

4. Syrupy Jelly 

Too much sugar. 

Too little pectin ( fruit too ripe 

or unsuitable). 
Long, slow cooking (destroys 

pectin). 

5. Tough and Gummy Jelly 

Over-cooked. 
Too little acid. 

6. Sugar Crystals 

Too much sugar or too little 

acid or pectin. 
Sugar added too near end of 

cooking process. 
Imperfect seal. 

7. Weeping Jelly 

Too much acid in proportion 
to pectin present. 

Fluctuation of temperature in 
storage cupboard, causing 
weeping under paraffin. 

8. Mold or Fermentation 

Containers not sterilized by 

boiling in water. 
Careless handling of container 

after sterilization. 
Imperfect seal or container. 
Too little sugar. 

Any number of interesting com- 
binations of fruit juice for jellies 
are possible. Apple and blackberry 
3 parts apple to 1 of blackberry ; 
apple and blueberry, cherry, or 
raspberry, half and half; apple and 
elderberry, peach, pineapple, or 
quince, half and half ; and cran- 
berry and quince, half and half, are 



among the most popular combina- 
tions. Be sure to combine acid 
fruits with those less acid, and 
fruits rich in pectin with those lack- 
ing in it. 

APPLE JELLY 

Follow general directions for 
jelly-making, but be sure to cook 
the apples a long time, in order to 
develop a pretty rosy color. Tart 
or unripe apples must be used for 
best results. The fruit of any of 
the ornamental flowering apples, as 
Floribunda, makes excellent jelly. 

RIPE APRICOT JAM 

3% cupfuls of prepared fruit 

7 cupfuls of sugar 

y* bottle (^cupful) of liquid 

fruit pectin 
Juice of 1 lemon 

Pit about 2 pounds of fully ripe 
apricots. Do not peel but cut into 
small pieces, and crush thoroughly 
or grind. Add lemon juice. Meas- 
ure sugar and prepared fruit into a 
large kettle, mix well, and bring to 
a full rolling boil over hottest fire. 
Stir constantly before and while 
boiling. Boil hard 1 minute. Re- 
move from fire and stir in the liquid 
pectin. Skim; pour quickly. Paraf- 
fin the hot jam at once. Makes 
about 10 eight-ounce glasses. 

SIMPLICITY APRICOT JAM 

Do not peel apricots for jam ; 
just take out the pits and run the 
fruit through the coarse knife of 
the food chopper. Cover with an 
equal measure of sugar and let 
stand an hour or two or overnight. 
You will have plenty of juice with- 
out adding any water. Cook, stir- 
ring, until jam reaches the consist- 
ency you like best, and pour into 
hot, sterile glasses or jars. 



Jellies and Preserves 



187 



APRICOT-STRAWBERRY JAM 

Wash and pit the apricots, and 
cut into tiny pieces. Stem and wash 
the berries, allowing 1 basket to 4 or 
5 pints of cut apricots. Measure 24 
cupful of sugar to each cupful of 
fruit, and put all berries, apricots, 
and sugar in a preserving kettle 
and allow to stand in a cool place 
overnight. Next morning cook 
slowly until thick, let cool, then re- 
heat and put into sterilized jars, 
and seal or cover with paraffin. 
Cooling before putting into the jars 
causes the berries to absorb the 
syrup, making them plump. (To 
shorten the process, bottled liquid 
pectin may be added to the fruit 
mixture after first heating it to boil- 
ing. In this case, follow directions 
for similar mixtures of fruits, in 
the recipe book that comes with the 
bottled pectin.) 

WESTERN CHERRY JAM 

4 packed cupfuls of pitted, sweet 

cherries 

y\ cupful of water 
7 cupfuls of sugar 
1 cupful of liquid fruit pectin 

Pit the cherries, any variety ex- 
cept wild or chokecherries, crush, 
chop, or grind coarse in food chop- 
per, and measure into a large kettle. 
Add the water, stir until mixture 
boils, then cover kettle and let sim- 
mer for 15 minutes. Add the sugar, 
mix, and bring at once to a full 
rolling boil over hot fire, stirring 
constantly. Boil hard for 3 min- 
utes, then remove from fire, stir in 
liquid pectin, then stir and skim by 
turns for 5 minutes to cool slightly, 
so that fruit will not float in the fin- 
ished jam. Pour quickly and cover 
with paraffin as directed above. For 
a stronger cherry flavor, add *4 tea ~ 
spoonful of almond extract before 
pouring into glasses. Sweet cherry 



jam sets more slowly than that 
made of sour cherries. 

IMITATION MARASCHINO 
CHERRIES 

4 l /2 pounds of Royal Ann cherries 
1 ounce of liquid red fruit coloring 
4 l / 2 pounds of sugar 

1 ounce of almond extract 
Juice of 1 lemon 

Pit the cherries, and soak over- 
night in a brine made from 2 table- 
spoonfuls of salt and 1 teaspoon- 
ful of alum for each quart of water 
needed. Next day wash until no 
trace of salt is left. To the cherries 
add 3 cupfuls of water, the sugar, 
and the coloring, and bring just to 
the boiling point. Let stand 24 
hours. Again bring to the boiling 
point, and again let stand for 24 
hours. For the third time bring to 
the boiling point and then add the 
almond extract and lemon juice. 
Seal in small bottles or jars. If the 
syrup becomes too thick, dilute with 
hot water to the desired consistency. 
Green coloring may be substituted 
for the red if desired. 

CHERRY CONSERVE 

2 pounds of pitted cherries 
4 cupfuls of sugar 

Juice of y 2 lemon 
1 cupful of seeded raisins 
1 orange, juice and chopped rind 
1 cupful of nutmeats (almonds, 
filberts, or pecans) 

The pitted cherries may be chop- 
ped, halved, or used whole. Slice 
the orange very thin, or run it 
through the food chopper. Add the 
sugar to the fruit, then the lemon 
and orange, and cook until the mix- 
ture is thick and transparent. Add 
the raisins and nuts five minutes be- 
fore removing from the fire. Pack 
hot into sterilized jars or glasses and 
seal immediately. 



88 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



CANTELOUPE-PEACH 
CONSERVE 

2 cupfuls of peeled and diced 
canteloupe 

2 cupfuls of peeled and diced 

peaches 
Juice and grated rind of 2 lemons 

3 cupfuls of sugar 

Combine and cook until thick and 
clear. Pour into jelly glasses and 
cover with paraffin. 



ELDERBERRY JELLY 

Wash and stem the berries (re- 
moving at least the largest stems), 
cover with water and simmer until 
the berries shrivel up and all the 
juice is out. Then drain off the 
juice through a jelly bag. Measure. 
Bring juice to the boiling point, add 
an equal measure of sugar, and boil 
until the jelly test is reached, that 
is, until two drops fall side by side 
from the edge of the spoon. Pour 
into sterilized glasses and seal with 
melted paraffin. This is especially 
fine with lamb chops or pork. 



FIC CONSERVE 

2 pounds of figs (any kind) 

1 flat can of sliced pineapple 

Sugar 

y?. cupful of broken nutmeats 

Prepare the figs as you ordinarily 
do for cooking, slicing them if you 
wish. Cut up the sliced pineapple 
and add, with the juice, to the figs. 
Weigh, and add an equal weight of 
sugar. Cook slowly about 2 hours, 
stirring occasionally. Add the broken 
walnut meats just before taking the 
conserve from the stove. Fresh 
apricots may be substituted for the 
figs in this recipe, with delicious re- 
sults. 



FIG-RHUBARB JAM 

1 pound of dried figs, cut in halves 
5 pounds of rhubarb, cut small 
3^2 pounds of sugar 

Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon 

Combine ingredients and let stand 
overnight. Next day, cook slowly 
for an hour, or until thick. Turn 
into sterile glasses, and seal. 

CRAPRICOT JAM 

2 pounds of Thompson Seedless 

grapes 

1 cupful of water 

2 pounds of ripe apricots, sliced 
Sugar 

Cook the grapes in the water un- 
til soft. Add the apricots and 
measure; for each cupful of fruit 
and juice add ^ cupful of sugar. 
Cook gently until thick, pour into 
hot, sterilized jars, and cover with 
melted paraffin. This jam makes a 
delicious filling for layer cakes ; 
chopped nuts may be added if de- 
sired, and the top of the cake spread 
with whipped cream. 

CRAPE-MINT JELLY 

2^2 cupfuls of white grape juice 

Juice of 2 lemons 

6 l / 2 level cupfuls of sugar 

A few drops of green vegetable 

coloring 
1 to 3 teaspoonfuls of spearmint 

flavoring 
1 bottle of liquid fruit pectin 

Mix grape juice, lemon juice, and 
sugar, and add vegetable coloring 
to give the desired shade (not too 
deep), stirring to dissolve the sugar. 
Heat to boiling. At once add the 
liquid pectin, stirring constantly; 
bring again to a full rolling boil, 
and boil exactly half a minute. Re- 
move from the fire and add spear- 
mint extract according to the flavor 
desired. Let stand 1 minute, skim, 




Jellies and Preserves 



189 



pour quickly into hot, sterilized 
glasses, and cover jelly at once with 
hot, melted paraffin. 

GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE 

(Makes 4 glasses) 

Slice one unpeeled grapefruit 
very thin. Measure and add 5 times 
as much water as fruit. Boil until 
reduced one-half (or about 1 hour) 
in an open kettle. Measure and add 
y^ cupful of sugar for each cupful 
of fruit. Boil until it gives the jelly 
test, that is, thick, reluctant drops 
fall from the spoon. This is usu- 
ally 20 to 30 minutes after boiling 
begins. 

CUAVA JELLY 

3^2 cupfuls of juice 

8 cupfuls of sugar 

1 bottle of liquid fruit pectin 

Use about 3 pounds of fully 
ripened fruit. Slice very thin and 
add 3 cupfuls of boiling water. 
Crush and stir for 5 minutes. Drip 
through jelly bag. Measure juice 
and sugar into large sauce pan, stir, 
and bring to a boil. At once add 
liquid pectin, stirring constantly, 
and bring again to a full rolling 
boil and boil ^ minute. Remove 
from fire, skim, pour quickly. Cover 
hot jelly with a film of hot paraffin ; 
when jelly is cold, cover with J/ 
inch of hot paraffin, and roll glass 
to spread paraffin on sides. Makes 
about 11 eight-ounce glasses. 

KUMQUAT MARMALADE 

1 pound of kumquats 
l /i lemon 
1 quart of water 
1 pound of sugar 

Wipe the fruit with a damp cloth 
and slice thin, discarding only the 
seeds. Add the cold water, and let 
stand 24 hours, then cook until the 



peel is tender, using an open kettle 
to allow evaporation. Let stand 
another 24 hours, then add the 
sugar, stir thoroughly, and cook to 
220 degrees on the candy thermom- 
eter, or to the stiffness desired. Al- 
low to stand at least a week before 
using. Kumquats need longer soak- 
ing than oranges in order to blend 
the sweetness of the peeling with 
the very sour juice. 

OREGON LOGANBERRY AND 
GOOSEBERRY JAM 

1 cupful of loganberries 

3 cupfuls of gooseberries 

4 cupfuls of granulated sugar 

Clean and pick over the fruit and 
add the sugar. Heat slowly until the 
sugar is melted, then let fruit boil 
for 15 minutes. Pour into sterilized 
glasses and seal. 

LOQUAT JELLY 

4 cupfuls of loquat juice 

7 l /2 cupfuls of sugar 

1 bottle of liquid fruit pectin 

Remove blossom and stem ends, 
also seeds, of about 4 pounds of 
fully ripe fruit. Cut in slices and 
add 3 cupfuls of water; bring to a 
boil, cover, and simmer 20 minutes. 
Crush with masher and simmer, 
covered, 20 minutes longer. Place 
fruit in jelly bag and let juice drip 
through. If there is a shortage of 
juice, add a small amount of water 
to pulp and drip through jelly bag 
to obtain required amount. Measure 
sugar and juice into large sauce pan 
and mix, bring to boiling over hot 
fire and at once add liquid pectin, 
stirring constantly. Then bring to a 
full rolling boil and boil hard J^ 
minute. Remove from fire, skim, 
and pour quickly. Paraffin the hot 
jelly at once. Makes about 11 eight- 
ounce glasses. 



190 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



SPICED LOQUATS 

2 quarts of loquats 

3 lemons 

3 cupfuls of sugar 

1 quart of cider vinegar 

3 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon 

1 tablespoonful of cloves 

Wash loquats and remove stems 
and blossom ends, but do not peel. 
Slice lemons crosswise very thin. 
Put in kettle with other ingredients 
and cook gently until fruit is tender. 
Pour into jars and seal. These may 
be used as soon as cool. Delicious 
with cold meats. 



LOGANBERRY LUSCIOUS 

1 box of red currants 

2 boxes of loganberries 
1 box of strawberries 

1 box of raspberries 

1 pound of black cherries 

Sugar 

Look over and wash currants ; it 
is not necessary to stem them. Put 
into a kettle, mash sufficiently to 
start juice, and cook, stirring and 
mashing, until currants look whitish. 
Strain through jelly bag, and add 1 
cupful of sugar to each cupful of 
juice. Stem the strawberries, pit the 
cherries; wash all the fruits, drain 
well, combine, and weigh. Add a 
pound of sugar for each pound of 
fruit, pour the sweetened currant 
juice over all, and let stand over- 
night. Next day boil briskly 15 
minutes, then set away in the kettle 
in a cool place for 48 hours, so that 
the berries will absorb the syrup and 
become plump. Heat up, put into 
glasses, and cover with paraffin. 

MANGO JELLY 

Peel the mango as it begins to 
turn yellow, before it softens. Slice 
the pulp from the seed ; add enough 



water to cover the fruit, and boil 
until quite tender. Strain through 
a muslin cloth; to the juice add an 
equal quantity of sugar and boil till 
it jells. Lime juice may be added if 
more acidity is desired in the jelly 
than is present in the mango. 

MANGO MARMALADE 

The pulp left after the juice has 
been drained off in making jelly can 
be run through a fine sieve, and 
boiled with an equal quantity of 
sugar and a little lime or lemon 
juice added, until it thickens like 
cheese. The marmalade, of course, 
can also be made direct from the 
fruit, that is, with its own juice re- 
tained. It has been stated that if the 
mango seed is boiled together with 
the preserve, this will retain the 
flavor of the fresh mango. The 
seed, of course, is thrown out when 
the preserve is put up in jars. 

MANZANITA JELLY 

Edible manzanita berries are 
small green to red apples about the 
size of the end of a finger, smooth 
and clean in appearance, with no 
gumminess of berries or bush. 
Cover berries with plenty of water 
and cook for some time, until thor- 
oughly soft. Crush fruit, and con- 
tinue cooking for a short time. 
Drain through a jelly bag, measure, 
heat juice to boiling, and add ^ 
cupful of sugar to each cupful of 
juice. Boil rapidly until jelly test 
is given, then seal in glasses as 
usual. 

BLACK OR PERSIAN 
MULBERRIES 

Mash ripe mulberries and strain. 
The resulting juice makes a delight- 
ful jelly. 



Jellies and Preserves 



191 



ORANGE MARMALADE 

Use 6 lemons and 12 large or 
medium-sized oranges. Remove the 
skin in quarters from 6 of the 
oranges and set it aside. Slice the 
lemons and all of the oranges, in- 
cluding those that were peeled, 
about y% inch thick. Measure the 
sliced fruit and add about 1^4 cup- 
fuls of water to each cupful of 
fruit. Boil the mixture slowly until 
soft, about 60 minutes, and then 
drain through a jelly bag for about 
2 hours. Twist the bag to express 
the remaining juice or allow to 
drain overnight. Strain the juice 
until clear. Cut the quartered peels 
very fine. Boil them in water until 
tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain 
the peels and discard the water. 
Measure the juice. From this 
amount of fruit should be obtained 
6 to 7 measuring cupfuls of juice. 
Test it for pectin and add the 
amount of sugar required. This will 
usually be 1 cupful of sugar to 1 of 
juice. For each 3 cupfuls of juice 
add about 1 cupful of the thinly 
sliced peel. Boil until a good jelly 
test is obtained. Allow the mixture to 
stand in the kettle until jellying be- 
gins so that the peels will not float. 
Pour it into dry glasses. Seal 
screw-cap glasses hot; if ordinary 
glasses are used, allow it to stand 
in the glasses overnight and then 
seal with hot paraffin. Eight or nine 
6-ounce glasses of marmalade 
should be obtained from 6 lemons 
and 12 medium-sized oranges. 



OREGON GRAPE JELLY 

Wash and cover the berries with 
water. Boil 10 minutes. Mash and 
heat a few minutes longer. Drain 
off the juice. Heat the juice to 
boiling and boil 10 minutes. Add 
24 cupful of sugar for each cupful 



of juice and boil until the jelly test 
is reached, as described above. Pour 
into sterilized glasses and seal with 
paraffin. 

P-G PRESERVES 

12 ripe peaches, peeled and 

quartered 

8 blue plums, or prunes, quartered 
4 ripe pears, pared, quartered, and 

cored 
Sugar 

Measure the prepared fruits into 
a large kettle, and cover with an 
equal measure of sugar. Let stand 
until syrup starts to form, then cook 
slowly, with as little stirring as pos- 
sible, as the fruit should keep its 
shape. Seal in hot glass jars. Makes 
about 5 or 6 glasses. 



BARTLETT PEAR HONEY 

Dice firm pears, or core them and 
grind coarsely in a food chopper. 
Crushed pineapple may be added 
with very good effect. To each cup- 
ful of chopped fruit add 1 cupful 
of sugar, and a slice of lemon if 
desired. Cook slowly until of the 
consistency of honey, and seal in 
small jars. 



PRESERVED WHOLE 
PERSIMMONS 

Put a thin layer of sugar in the 
bottom of a jar, then a layer of 
whole ripe persimmons, then an- 
other layer of sugar, and so on until 
the jar is full. The sugar will soon 
dissolve and form a syrup. Press 
the upper fruits down under the 
syrup or add more syrup to the jar. 
Seal and store until used. The syrup 
may be drained off and the fruits 
served like dates, which they will 
resemble in appearance and flavor. 



192 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



PINEAPPLE PRESERVES 

Pare and slice or dice fresh pine- 
apple, then weigh out one pound of 
sugar to each pound of fruit. Put 
a layer of the fruit in a stone jar, 
sprinkle with the sugar, continue 
until fruit and sugar are used up, 
and allow to stand overnight. Re- 
move the pineapple and cook the 
syrup until thick, add the fruit, and 
boil for 15 minutes; remove the 
fruit and let it cool, then put into 
jars and pour the hot syrup over it. 
A very little fresh or preserved 
ginger root boiled in this syrup will 
improve it. 

PINECOT PRESERVES 

Pare and cut one pineapple in 
small pieces, and slice one basket of 
apricots. Make a syrup of 4 cupfuls 
of sugar and 1 cupful of water, 
letting it boil for 5 minutes. Then 
add the pineapple carefully, and 
cook very slowly until tender. Add 
the apricots and cook 10 minutes 
longer. As this sweet is so rich that 
but a small quantity is required for 
serving, it is wiser to store it in 
half-pint jars than in those of larger 
proportions. 

CHERRY PLUM JELLY 

This may be made plain or, for 
variety, apple or elderberry may be 
added to the cherry plums. Use 
1 cupful of sugar to each cupful of 
juice. Imitation wild cherry fruit 
flavor may be used as an additional 
flavoring to the jelly. 

PRESERVED DAMSON PLUMS 

Allow 1 pound of sugar to 1 
pound of plums. Put sugar in pre- 
serving kettle with water barely to 
cover it, and boil to a thin syrup. 
Prick plums with a fork, drop into 



the hot syrup, and allow to stand 
overnight. Next morning remove 
plums and reheat syrup, and repeat 
the process. The third day boil the 
plums and syrup slowly together 
until plums are tender. Remove 
fruit with a skimmer, pack into 
sterilized jars, and cover with the 
juice which has been boiled down 
until thick. 

DAMSON PLUM JAM 

3 pounds of plums, halved and 

pitted 

2 pounds of sugar 

Add sugar to plums, and cook a 
fairly long time, until plums are 
tender and mixture is thick and 
clear. Seal at once in clean, hot jars. 

FRESH PRUNE CONSERVE 

4 cupfuls of stoned, chopped 

Italian prunes 

3 cupfuls of sugar 

1 lemon, juice and grated rind 
y* cupful of chopped blanched 
almonds 

Mix the prunes, sugar, and lemon. 
Let heat slowly to boiling, and boil 
rapidly until thick. Add the nuts as 
it comes from the fire, and seal in 
small jars, or with paraffin in jelly 
glasses. An especially luscious con- 
serve is made of the little blue Dam- 
son plums, using this same recipe, 
with the substitution of 1 cupful of 
shredded pineapple for 1 cupful of 
the prune pulp. 

POMEGRANATE JELLY 

4 cupfuls of juice 
7^2 cupfuls of sugar 

1 bottle of liquid fruit pectin 

Separate and crush the edible por- 
tion of 10 to 20 fully ripe pome- 
granates. Place fruit in jelly cloth 
or bag and squeeze out juice. If 



Jellies and Preserves 



193 



there is a shortage of juice, add a 
small amount of water to the pulp 
and drip through jelly bag to obtain 
required amount. Measure sugar 
and juice into a large sauce pan and 
mix. Bring to a boil over hottest 
fire and at once add liquid pectin, 
stirring constantly. Then bring to 
a full rolling boil and boil hard ^ 
minute. Remove from the fire, skim, 
pour quickly. Paraffin the hot jelly 
at once. Makes about 11 eight- 
ounce glasses. 

POMEGRANATE CATSUP 

4 pounds of pomegranates, some- 
what under-ripe 
2 pounds of brown sugar 

1 pint of vinegar 
A dash of cayenne 

T/2 teaspoonful of whole cloves 

2 tablespoonfuls of broken stick 

cinnamon 

1 tablespoonful of white mustard 
seed 

Cut the washed pomegranates in 
pieces; press the juice from the 
seeds, and strain. Put the juice into 
a preserving kettle, add sugar, vine- 
gar, cayenne, and the cloves, cinna- 
mon, and mustard seed (all spices 
tied in a little bag). Simmer until 
sufficiently thick, strain, and seal in 
sterilized bottles. 

PRICKLY PEAR JELLY 

Rub off the spines from the 
prickly pears with a thick cloth. 
Weigh and cut the fruit in halves. 
Place in a preserving kettle with 2 
cupfuls of water for each pound of 
fruit. Let boil until cooked to a 
pulp, then place in a jelly bag and 
drain. Measure the juice and return 
to the kettle, adding an equal amount 
of sugar and the strained juice of 
one lemon for each 2 cupfuls of 
juice. Boil rapidly until a spoonful 
of the mixture will jell when tested 



on a cold plate. Skim and pour into 
hot, sterilized glasses and, when 
cool, seal with hot paraffin. Store in 
a cool, dark place. 

QUINCE PRESERVES 

4 pounds of peeled, cored, and 

quartered quinces 
4 pounds of sugar 
Water 
Ginger 

Prepare the quinces as described 
on page 194 for honey-making, sep- 
arating the skins from the cores. 
Cover the skins with water and cook 
rapidly until tender. Strain this water 
and reserve it for making the syrup. 

In the meantime, steam the 
quinces until they are barely tender. 
Add the sugar to the water, and 
then the fruit. Let cook very 
slowly, to develop the desired red 
color, until the sugar has penetrated 
and the fruit appears almost clear. 
Skim out and place in hot, sterilized 
jars ; let the syrup boil down until 
there is just enough to fill the jars, 
then seal. 

QUINCE AND ORANGE 
CONSERVE 

Z l /2 pounds of quinces, peeled and 

cored 

6 cupfuls of water 
4 medium oranges 
9 cupfuls of sugar 

Peel and core the fruit, weigh, 
then chop fine or put through the 
food chopper, and add the water. 
Add also the chopped rind of one 
of the oranges. Let cook until the 
fruit is tender. Then add the sugar 
and the juice of all the oranges. 
Let this simmer until it is thick and 
a few drops will jell when tried on 
a cold plate. Seal in small jars, or 
pour into clean, hot glasses and 
cover immediately with hot paraffin. 



194 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



QUINCE HONEY 

A meat cleaver is the most con- 
venient tool with which to cut up 
quinces, preliminary to coring. 
Never use cores or seeds of quinces 
in jelly or jam, as the sticky sub- 
stance found in the cores is likely 
to cause a poor texture in the jelly. 

4 large quinces 
4 cupfuls of water 
Sugar 

Peel and core the quinces, after 
washing them carefully. Drop the 
quartered fruit into cold water to 
cover, and meanwhile cook the 
skins until tender in the water men- 
tioned above. Do not use the cores. 
Strain the water from the skins, 
and into it grate or grind the 
quinces. Measure and add an equal 
amount of sugar. Cook rapidly for 
20 to 25 minutes, and seal in small 
half-pint jars. 

Quinces for preserves should be 
steamed or stewed until tender be- 
fore the sugar is added, for the 
sugar has a tendency to harden the 
fruit fiber too much. If the fruit is 
stewed in clear water, this liquid 
should be used for the making of 
the syrup to follow. 

QU I NCE-APPLE-CRAN BERRY 
JELLY 

4 quinces, sliced and seeds discarded 
4 quarts of apples, sliced but not 

peeled 

1 quart of cranberries 
Sugar 

Cover fruit with water and cook 
separately until soft. Mash and 
drain. Combine juices and proceed 
as with any fruit jelly, using 4 
cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice. 
This is delicious. The apple juice 
may be omitted, and quince and 
cranberry juice used, half and half, 
with y$ cupful of sugar to each 
cupful of juice. 



RED RASPBERRY JAM 

4 cupfuls of crushed raspberries 

6 l /2 cupfuls of sugar 

YZ cupful of liquid pectin 

Measure the crushed berries and 
sugar into a large kettle, mix, and 
bring to a full rolling boil over a 
hot fire, stirring constantly all the 
time. Boil hard exactly 1 minute, 
remove from fire at once and stir 
in the liquid pectin, then stir and 
skim by turns for just 5 minutes to 
cool syrup slightly, so that the fruit 
will not float. Pour quickly into hot, 
sterilized glasses, cover at once with 
a thin film of hot paraffin, and when 
cold, cover with a thicker layer of 
the paraffin, rolling the glass to 
spread the wax on the sides. 

If you prefer a softer jelly, do 
not cut down on the amount of pec- 
tin used, but instead, use y 2 cupful 
less of sugar. This will set more 
slowly than that made by the stand- 
ard recipe. 

For blackberry jam use 7 cupfuls 
of sugar to the 4 cupfuls of crushed 
berries and ^2 cupful of pectin. 

ROSELLE JELLY 

2 cupfuls of roselle juice 

\y 2 cupfuls of sugar 

2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice 

Wash roselles, cover them with 
water and cook until they are ten- 
der. Strain, measure the juice, boil 
it for five minutes, and add sugar 
and lemon juice in the proportion 
given above. Cook until it sheets 
from the spoon. Skim, and pour 
into hot, clean glasses. When cool, 
cover with paraffin. Roselles by 
themselves have not a great deal of 
flavor, so it is really advisable to 
use the juice as a base for some 
well-flavored fruit which is defi- 
cient in pectin, as pineapple, 
peaches, strawberries, or cherries. 



Pickles 



195 



STRAWBERRY PRESERVES 

Pour 5 cupfuls of sugar over 5 
cupfuls of strawberries, which have 
been washed and stemmed before 
measuring. Put on the stove over a 
very slow fire, and stir until sugar 
is melted. When boiling-point is 
reached, increase heat until they boil 
rapidly for 8 minutes. Add ^2 cup- 
ful of strained lemon juice. Let boil 
again for 2 minutes, remove from 
fire, and let stand in the kettle in a 
cool place overnight. In the morn- 
ing put into glasses and seal. They 
do not ordinarily need reheating be- 
fore putting into sterile jars, as the 
sugar and acid preserve them. Each 
berry holds its shape and does not 
float if made properly. Do not stir 
too strenuously. 



WILD STRAWBERRY JAM 

1 quart of wild strawberries, 

hulled and washed 
6 cupfuls of sugar 
Juice of 1 lemon 
Yz cupful of bottled fruit pectin 

Put the berries and sugar in lay- 
ers in a preserving kettle and let 
stand overnight. In the morning add 
the lemon juice; boil rapidly for five 
minutes, stirring constantly. Remove 
from the fire and add the pectin; 
stir a minute or two, skim, and pour 
into sterilized containers. Cover with 
melted paraffin. 



sors. Cut remainder of orange and 
lemon into thin slices, rejecting 
seeds. Add pulp and juice from 
grapefruit (rejecting seeds and 
white skin). Measure and place in 
preserving kettle, add three times 
as much cold water, let stand 24 
hours. Next day boil briskly for 15 
minutes and measure again ; add an 
equal amount of granulated sugar; 
stand 24 hours. On the follow- 
ing day, boil quickly for 1 hour. 
Cool, fill sterilized glasses, and 
seal. 



TANGERINE MARMALADE 

3 pounds of tangerines 

3 lemons 

Sugar 

Quarter tangerines, but do not 
remove peel. Slice very thin, re- 
moving all seeds. Add finely shred- 
ded or sliced lemons. Measure fruit 
and add five times as much water, 
and boil until quantity is reduced 
nearly one-half, or from 1 to 1^4 
hours. For a light amber marma- 
lade, cook 2 cupfuls at a time. Add 
y$ cupful of sugar to each cupful 
of boiling fruit and continue boiling 
until it gives the jelly test. It will 
take 10 to 20 minutes. Pour into 
sterilized glasses and when cool seal 
with paraffin. Serve with hot toast, 
biscuits, or as a meat accompani- 
ment. This is a delightful novelty 
which deserves to be better known. 



SUNSET MARMALADE 

1 orange 
1 grapefruit 
1 lemon 
Cold water 
Granulated sugar 

Pare outer yellow skin from all 
fruit and cut into shreds with scis- 



PICKLES 

Only a few specially selected 
recipes for pickled fruits and vege- 
tables are given here. Be sure to 
send for one of the splendid book- 
lets of complete directions for pick- 
ling, listed in the bibliography undei; 
"Canning." (See page 199.) 



196 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



CHERRY OLIVES 

Select firm sweet or sour cher- 
ries. Cut the stems, leaving on 
about one inch. Wash, and pack 
lightly into sterilized jars. Add 
2 tablespoon fuls of salt to each 
quart jar, fill the jars with mild 
vinegar, seal, and store. They will 
be ready for use in about 6 to 8 
weeks. 



CUCUMBER OLIVE PICKLES 

100 small cucumbers 

1 pint of small white onions 

1 cupful of dairy salt 

Y?. cupful of celery seed 

Y* cupful of whole white mustard 

seed 

1 cupful of salad oil 
y* teaspoon ful of ground black 

pepper 

Slice the cucumbers and onions 
very thin, sprinkle with the salt, 
and let stand overnight. In the 
morning drain well, and add the 
seeds, salad oil, and pepper, mixing 
all together very thoroughly. Put 
into fruit jars and fill jars with cold 
vinegar. Seal. These will keep any 
length of time and are delicious. 
This recipe makes 2 gallons. 



BREAD-AND-BUTTER PICKLES 

Slice 25 cucumbers of medium 
size and 12 onions. Soak in ice 
water with a large handful of dairy 
salt for 3 hours. Boil or just scald 
1 quart of vinegar, 2 cupfuls of 
white sugar, 2 teaspoonf uls of mus- 
tard seed, 2 teaspoonfuls of tur- 
meric, 2 teaspoonfuls of celery 
seed, and 1 large teaspoon ful 
of cassia buds. Add the drained 
cucumbers and onions and just 
heat through. Put in jars and 
seal. 



SWEET CUCUMBER PICKLES 

Cut crosswise in thick slices 
enough sour pickles to fill a quart 
jar. Add 2 cupfuls of sugar and 2 
tablespoonfuls of white mustard 
seed. In 2 or 3 days the pickles 
will be covered with a sweet liquor. 
The pickles (which should be the 
large size) can be purchased at any 
grocery store, and so these sweet 
pickles can be made at any time of 
year. 



JUJUBE SWEET PICKLES 

Prepare fruit by dipping in boil- 
ing lye water about 3 minutes or 
until the skin slips off readily. (The 
lye water is made in the proportions 
of 3 tablespoonfuls of ordinary 
household lye to each quart of 
water.) Remove the fruit from the 
boiling lye and plunge into cold run- 
ning water; wash about 5 minutes, 
then boil in alum water about 5 min- 
utes. (This is made by dissolving 
\ l /2 teaspoonfuls of powdered alum 
to each 2 quarts of water.) The fruit 
when removed from this should 
again be washed in running water 
5 to 10 minutes, after which it 
should be removed and drained well, 
then placed in a syrup made in the 
following proportions: 

3 cupfuls of sugar 

1 cupful of vinegar 

y-2. cupful of water 

1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 

y-2. teaspoonful of cloves 

Cook fruit until done, skim out, 
and boil down the syrup fairly 
thick. Put the fruit back when the 
syrup is boiled down. The fore- 
going is sufficient for 1 quart or 
more of pickles. The fruit should 
be placed in jars and sealed while 
hot. 



Pickles 



197 



Lye Peeling of Peaches 

Freestone peaches may ordinarily 
be peeled easily by merely dipping 
in boiling water until the skins 
loosen, then dipping at once into 
cold water. Most clings, however, 
need stronger measures. Be ex- 
tremely careful in using the lye 
treatment that you do not spill or 
spatter the boiling lye water on 
yourself or anyone else. Do not 
allow children in the kitchen while 
you are using it, for an accident 
would be serious indeed. With care, 
however, this method is well worth 
using. First, into a large enamel- 
ware or iron kettle (never alumi- 
num) put 2 gallons of cold water, 
and add ^4 pound (4 ounces, or 
about ^2 cupful) of granulated lye, 
and stir with a wooden spoon until 
it is dissolved. Heat to boiling, and 
while actively boiling immerse the 
peaches, in a dipping basket, in the 
solution until the skin is loosened 
and partially dissolved. This will 
usually require from 30 to 60 sec- 
onds. Remove and let cold water 
from the faucet run over the peaches 
until both skin and lye are removed ; 
rinse thoroughly in more clear 
water. The skins will all disappear 
in the dipping and rinsing process 
if the lye solution is strong enough 
(it may be made slightly stronger if 
it seems to be needed for the peaches 
you are working with), and much 
hand labor is saved and a smooth 
job of peeling is performed. Cling- 
stone apricots and nectarines may 
be peeled the same way. 

SWEET PICKLED PEACHES 

(Also Pears, Apples, Figs, and 
Other Fruits) 

It is almost impossible to make 
really poor peach pickles, but some 
are of course better than others. 
Don't be afraid to follow your own 



sense of taste in the preparation of 
the spiced vinegar. The following 
will be sufficient for about 8 quarts 
(1 peck) or more of peaches. The 
same recipe may be used for figs 
and other fruits. 

Pickling Syrup 

2 quarts of best cider vinegar (may 

be diluted slightly with water 
if very strong) 

3 quarts of granulated sugar 

Spice bag containing : 

1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of whole 

cloves 
Y$ ounce of broken stick cinnamon 

(this is Vz of a standard 

^4 -ounce package, or about 

2 or 3 tablespoonfuls) 
1 tablespoonful of mixed pickling 

spices (may be omitted) 
1 piece of ginger root (may be 

omitted) 

Heat together the vinegar and 
sugar until sugar is dissolved. Tie 
the spices loosely in a small piece of 
cheesecloth or thin muslin, and put 
into the syrup. (N.B. If only stick 
cinnamon is used for spicing, the 
peaches will keep their light color 
beautifully and will be delicately 
flavored.) Drop peeled whole cling- 
stone or halved freestone peaches 
a few at a time into the boiling 
syrup and cook until the fruit can 
easily be pierced with a toothpick. 
Remove these carefully to hot glass 
jars, and add more peaches to the 
syrup, continuing until all the 
peaches are cooked. Remove the 
spice bag. If the syrup is very 
much diluted, boil it down to the 
desired thickness, and pour over the 
peaches in the jars. If it has boiled 
away and not enough is left to 
cover the peaches, make enough 
new syrup to finish out. Adjust jar 
rings and lids, seal, and store. 

This recipe may be used for pick- 
ling pears (peel them and remove 
blossom ends, unless you are using 



198 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



the small Seckel variety) ; apples 
(peel or not as you prefer) ; apri- 
cots, plums, and prunes (leave 
whole and unpeeled) ; and grapes, 
which require very little cooking. 
Figs also may be pickled in this 
syrup, but they need special pre- 
liminary treatment: sprinkle 1 cup- 
ful of baking soda over 6 quarts of 
figs and add 1 gallon of boiling 
water. Allow them to stand in this 
for just 5 minutes, then drain and 
rinse thoroughly in clear water. 
Cook the figs very slowly for 1 
hour in the pickling syrup, then 
place them carefully in the cans and 
fill with hot syrup. 

SPICED GREEN PEACHES 

1 tablespoonful of whole cloves 

1 teaspoonful of whole allspice 

YZ dozen 2-inch sticks of cinnamon 

2 quarts of vinegar, diluted to 

mildness 

3 pounds of brown sugar 

7 pounds of green peaches (whole) 

Tie the spices in a cheesecloth 
bag, and put with vinegar and 
sugar. Bring all to boiling, then add 
the peaches and cook until they are 
heated through. Pour all into a 
crock and let stand until next day. 
Drain off the juice, boil it for sev- 
eral minutes and pour over the 
peaches again. The third day, cook 
all together slowly until the peaches 
begin to soften, then dip out the 
peaches carefully, boil the syrup a 
little longer, pour over the fruit 
again, and put the bag of spices on 
top. Cover with a clean, wet cloth, 
then with paper, or put into glass 
jars and screw down the lids. They 
need not be sealed air-tight. 

PEPPER JAM 

Remove the seeds from 1 dozen 
large, sweet red peppers. Grind, 
mix with 1 tablespoonful of salt, 



and let stand 3 hours. Drain ; add 1 
pint of vinegar and 3 cupfuls of 
sugar ; then simmer slowly until like 
jam, usually about 1 hour. Pour 
into small glasses. This jam is fine 
for salads and is delicious mixed 
with cream cheese, potato salads, 
etc. 

PEPPER RELISH 

1 dozen green peppers 

1 dozen red peppers 

Y* dozen medium-sized white 

onions 
Salt to taste 

2 pounds of white sugar (more if 

desired) 
1 quart of vinegar 

Seed peppers and with onions run 
through food chopper using fine 
knife, then add salt and sugar, and 
add all to hot vinegar. Boil 20 to 30 
minutes and seal tight. This is very 
good with meats or fish. 

PEPPERS PRESERVED IN BRINE 

Select perfect peppers without 
spots or bruises. Wash them, punc- 
ture several times with coarse needle 
and pack in crocks. Cover with an 
inverted plate and a heavy rock to 
keep them under the brine. Then 
completely cover all with a mixture 
of half-brine and half-vinegar the 
brine strong enough to float an egg. 
Pour brine on cold. After two or 
three weeks, when they are quite 
wilted, pack in sterilized jars and 
pour over the same brine and vine- 
gar and seal. When ready to use, 
cut off stem end, remove seeds and 
walls and freshen in water over- 
night. 

PICKLED WALNUTS 

Pickled walnuts are popular in 
European countries although sel- 
dom made in America. The whole 



Canning 



199 



nuts should be picked after they 
have become about two-thirds grown 
but before the shell has begun to 
harden. It should be possible to 
pierce them through easily with a 
darning needle; that is, the shell 
must still be soft. As they are in- 
tensely astringent ("puckery") a 
rather prolonged curing process is 
needed to render them edible. 

To 3 pints of vinegar add 2 table- 
spoonfuls of salt and 1 tablespoon- 
ful each of allspice, whole pepper, 
cloves, and ginger. Puncture the 
walnuts with a fork and store the 
walnuts in this vinegar 4 months. 
Drain. Prepare a fresh spiced vine- 
gar as above and bring to boiling. 
Half a cupful of sugar may be 
added if desired. Pour hot on the 
nuts. Seal. Store 3 weeks. They 
are then ready for use. 

Instead of the first vinegar the 
walnuts may be stored in sealed jars 
in a brine of 1 pound of salt to 6 
pints of water for 2 months. Then 
soak in hot water for several hours 
to remove excess salt. Then place 
in the final hot, spiced vinegar as 
directed above. 

PICKLED WATERMELON RIND 

Cut off all the green rind and the 
pink part of the watermelon, then 
cut the white rind into small cubes 
(about 1 inch in size). Cover with 
hot water and parboil until it can be 
pierced with a fork, but be careful 
not to let it get very soft. For 7 
pounds (or pints) of fruit, make 
the syrup as follows : 

Syrup 

Z l /2 pounds (7 cupfuls) of sugar 
1 pint of vinegar 
^ teaspoonful of oil of cloves 
^2 teaspoonful of oil of cinnamon 

When the rind is tender drain off 
the water, bring the syrup to boil- 



ing and pour over the rind. Let 
this stand in the kettle overnight. 
In the morning drain off the syrup, 
reheat, and pour back. The third 
morning heat both the rind and 
syrup and seal in jars. This makes 
about 8 pints. 

Using the oil of cinnamon and of 
cloves keeps the cubes clear and 
almost transparent. If whole spices 
are substituted, tie them in a bag. 
This makes a delicious sweet pickle. 



CANNING 

Canning of fruits, vegetables, 
meats, and sea food is such a com- 
plex subject that it requires more 
space than is available here if the 
discussion is to be worth anything. 
I shall, therefore, list a number of 
excellent free or inexpensive sources 
of reliable information. 

A Few Sources of Reliable and 

Up-to-Date Information on 

Food Preservation 

Write to the Home Economics 
Extension Service of your own state 
college for list of bulletins and leaf- 
lets available. Following are listed 
a few that you will want. 

If you live in Oregon, write to 
the Extension Service, Oregon State 
Agricultural College, Corvallis, Ore- 
gon, for these bulletins. 

Extension Bulletin 450, Home Food 
Preservation (issued July, 1932). 
Includes full directions for can- 
ning, drying, curing, smoking, 
and storing of fruits, vegetables, 
meats, and fish. 

Leaflet H.E. 416 Salmon Kip- 
pered or Jerked, telling exactly 
how to prepare fish in these pop- 
ular ways. 



200 



Canning, Preserving, Pickling 



If you live in Washington, write 
to Extension Service, State College 
of Washington, Pullman, Washing- 
ton, for canning information, par- 
ticularly : 

4-H Circular No. 12, 4-H Canning 
Club, First and Second Years 
(issued March, 1932), giving con- 
densed directions for canning 
fruits, vegetables, meats, poultry, 
and fish, and a few good recipes 
for jellies, jams, conserves, and 
pickles. 

If you live in California, write to 
the College of Agriculture, Univer- 
sity of California, Berkeley, Cali- 
fornia, for these publications. 

Circular 276, Home Canning, by 
W. V. Cruess and A. W. Christie 
(revised June, 1932). This is a 
48-page bulletin packed with ex- 
cellent information on canning 
fruits and vegetables, including 
sweet cherries, apricots, fresh 
prunes, figs, grapefruit, arti- 
chokes, ripe olives, and other typi- 
cally Western products. 

Circular 2, Home Preparation of 
Jelly and Marmalade, by W. V. 
Cruess and J. H. Irish. Contains 
classification of fruits according 
to suitability for jelly-making, and 
full directions for making jellies 
and marmalades from uncommon 
as well as common Western fruits. 
There is a valuable chapter on 
"Defects and Causes of Failure" 
weeping, formation of crystals, 
molding, fermentation, and so on. 

Circular 37, Home and Farm Prep- 
aration of Pickles, by M. A. Jos- 
lyn and W. V. Cruess (issued 
October, 1929). This is an ex- 
cellent 32-page discussion of the 
preservation of fruits and vege- 
tables in brine or vinegar, with or 
without fermentation. Under 
"Fermented Pickles" come sauer- 



kraut, dill pickles, and other 
vegetables as peppers, green to- 
matoes, cauliflower, Brussels 
sprouts, and artichokes. Direc- 
tions are given for dry salting 
and brining of such vegetables as 
string beans, corn, peas, and 
spinach ; for vegetables brined, 
then pickled in sweet or sour 
vinegar, as string beans, green 
tomatoes, chayotes, etc. ; sweet 
fruit pickles ; mixed pickles ; 
cooked vegetable pickles, as arti- 
chokes and beets; relishes; cat- 
sups and sauces ; pickled walnuts, 
and olive pickles. 

Leaflet, The Home Evaporator, giv- 
ing directions for making a 
simple evaporator, and for using 
it to dry fruits and vegetables. 
Directions for candying fruits 
are given also. 

Wherever you live, write to the 
Superintendent of Documents, 
Washington, D.C., for : 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 1471, Can- 
ning Fruits and Vegetables at 
Home. Price, 5 cents. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 984, Farm 
and Home Drying of Fruits and 
Vegetables. Price, 5 cents. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 1438, Making 
Fermented Pickles. Price, 5 cents. 

A few excellent booklets on these 
subjects issued by commercial com- 
panies are: 

Canning, Preserving, and Pickling. 
Write to Julia Lee Wright, Safe- 
way Homemakers' Bureau, Safe- 
way Stores, Inc., Box 660, Oak- 
land, California, and inclose a 
large envelope, stamped and self- 
addressed. 

The Ball Blue Book, an attractive 
60-page book distributed free by 
Ball Brothers Company, Muncie, 
Indiana. It contains dozens of 
delightful recipes, clearly ex- 



Canning 



201 



pressed, for canning and preserv- 
ing fruits, vegetables, meats, and 
fish, including many novelties. 

The Home Canners Text Book, a 
64-page book distributed by the 
Boston Woven Hose and Rubber 
Company, Cambridge, Massa- 
chusetts ; price, 10 cents. Con- 
tains four pages of gummed and 
printed jar labels, in addition to 
good recipes and directions for 
canning, preserving, and pickling. 

A Book of Recipes and Helpful In- 
formation on Canning, a 68-page 



book published by the Hazel- 
Atlas Glass Company, Wheeling, 
West Virginia. 

The Modern Way of Canning, pub- 
lished by the Burpee Can Sealer 
Company, 215 West Huron 
Street, Chicago; price, 25 cents. 
A 64-page book of directions for 
canning fruits, vegetables, meats, 
and fish in tin cans. 

Lorain Oven Canning, a 20-page 
leaflet distributed free by the 
American Stove Company, Cleve- 
land, Ohio. 



INDEX 



Abalone, 129-130 

Ano Nuevo Style, 130 

Boiled, 130 

Chowder, 130 

Fried, 130 

Fritters, 130 
Alaska Black Cod, 130-131 

Kippered in Cream, 158 
Albacore, 131 
Albondigos, 174 
Alligator Pears, see Avo- 
cados 
Almonds, 114 

Almond Cream Pie, 115 

Almond Rocha Candy, 
115 

Fresh Prune Conserve, 
192 

Lady Baltimore Cake 
Filling, 114 

Paradise Pudding, 115 

Salted, 114 

Sunshine Fluff, 90 
Anaheim Chili Peppers, 23 
Anchovies, 131 
Appetizers 

Artichoke- Avocado 
Cocktail, 46 

Avocado and Celery 
Cocktail, 47 

Avocado Canape, 47-48 

Avocado Cocktail Salad, 
46 

Canta-Cherry Cup, 61 

Cantaloupe Cocktail, 81 

Crab Cocktail, 138 

Cranberry Juice Cock- 
tail, 54 

Fresh Pineapple Camille, 
91 

Grapefruit and Pome- 
granate Cup, 63 

Grapefruit Avocado Ca- 
nape, 63 

Grapefruit Macedoine, 63 

Jellied Tangerine Cock- 
tail, 75 

Jellied Tomato Soup, 32 

Melon and Grape-Juice, 
81 

Olives in Blankets, 83 

Pomegranate, 93 



Prune, 112 
Tangerine, 75 
See also Salads; Sau- 
ces, Miscellaneous 
Apples 

Apple Coffee Cake, 42 
Apple-Horseradish 

Sauce, 42 
Apple Jelly, 186 
Apple Sauce Cake, 40 
Baked Apple Delight, 40 
Caramel Pudding, 41 
Christmas Salad, 49 
Extra- Special Sauce, 43 
Faerie Salad, 93 
Graham-Apple Pie, 41 
Green Apple Pie, 41 
Ham-Apple Pie, 43 
like Honeyed Peaches, 86 
"McGinties," 105 
Mint, 4(M1 
Old-Fashioned Apple 

Salad, 40 

Prune Apple Betty, 110 
Quince- Apple- Cranberry 

Jelly, 194 
and Quinces, 94 
Relish, 41 

Western Apple Dump- 
lings, 42 
Apricots 

Apricot Cake, 105 
Apricot Chiffon Pie, 106 
Apricot Cream, 107 
Apricot Dainty, 44 
Apricot Ice Cream, 106 
Apricot Sauce, 45 
Bavarian Cream, 44 
Double-Decked Fruit 

Salad, 95 

Grapricot Jam, 188 
Meringue Pie, 44 
Pinecot Preserves, 192 
and Prune Upside-Down 

Cake, 113 
Rice a la, 45 
Ripe Apricot Jam, 186 
Sacramento Sunshine, 44 
Simplicity Jam, 186 
Sponge Cake Dessert, 

106 
and Strawberry Jam, 187 

203 



Sunday Night Supper 
Salad, 44 

Tapioca, 106 
Artichokes, 2-7 

Avocado Cocktail, 46 

Artichoke Bottoms, 5 

as Cases for Creamed 
Foods, 5 

in Combination Salad, 6 

Cooking and serving, 3 

Crab Cocktail Supreme, 6 

Dry Saute, 4 

Fried, 3 

Fried Hearts of, 5 

Molded Salad, 6 

Omelet, 5; Marie's, 5 

Quartered, 4 

Selection and prepara- 
tion, 2 

Souffle, 6 

Stewed, 4 

Stuffed, 4; Italian, 4 

Stuffed Salad, 6 
Asparagus, 7-8 

with Cheese, 8 

and Cheese Delight, 8 

Preparation and cooking, 

7-8 
Avocados, 45-51 

and Artichoke Cocktail, 46 

Avocado Novel, 50 

Avocado Surprise, 48 

and Bacon Sandwich, 48 

Bouillon with, 47 

Calavo Cocktail Sauce, 47 

Calavo Cream Dressing, 
49 

Calavo Mousse, 51 

Calavo Treasure- Chest, 
49 

Calavonnaise, 49 

Canape, 47, 48 

and Celery Cocktail, 47 

Christmas Salad, 49 

and Clam and Tomato 
Broth, 47 

Cocktail Salad, 46 

Dressing, 50 

Grapefruit and Persim- 
mon Salad, 48 

in Grapefruit Canape, 
63-64 



204 



Sunset All -Western Cook Book 



Avocados (Continued) 
Molded Salad, 51 
Mousse (Salad), 50 
and Pineapple Salad, 48 
Preparation and serving, 

46 

with Scrambled Eggs, 50 
as Shells for Baked 

Creamed Crab, 50 
and Shrimp Salad, 48 
Souffle, 51 
Stuffed, 48, 49 
and Tomato- Crab Salad, 

49 

Bacon 

in Avocado Canape, 47 
and Avocado Sandwich, 48 
Minestrone, 178 
Olives in Blankets, 83 
with Prune Appetizers, 

112 

Bamboo Shoots, 8-9 
Japanese Style, 9 
Bamboo Sprouts, 180 
Bananas 

Sunshine Fluff, 90 
Barberries, 102 
Barracuda, 131 
Basilica, 19 
Bass (Black, 141; Rock, 

149; Striped, 131) 
Baked Striped, with To- 
mato Sauce, 131-132 
Beach Strawberry, 102 
Bean Sprouts, 9 
in Chow Mein, 175 
in Eggs Foo Yung, 176 
Beans, 9-11 
Kidney Beans 
Chili con Carne, 175 
Minestrone, 178 
Lima Beans 
Au Gratin, 10 
in Cream, 11 
Muffins, 11 
Oxnard, 10 
Scalloped Succotash, 11 
Soup, 10 
Southern California 

Style, 11 
Mexican or Red Beans 

Frijoles, 177 
String Beans, 11 
Spanish Style, 11 
with Tomatoes, 11 



Bear Berry, 103 

Bear Meat, 167 

Beets, 12 

Bell Peppers, 23 

Berries, 51-61 
Berry Cobbler, 52 
Berry Rice Parfait, 52 
Frozen Dessert, 95 
German Berry Cake, 52 
Oregon Grape, 102, 191 
See also Blackberries, etc. 

Beverages 

Best Lemonade, 65 
Fruit Punch with Ore- 
gon Grape, 102 
Loganberry Punch, 57 
Logan-Ginger Punch, 56 
Orange Juice with Fruit 

Ice, 69 

Orange Juice with Va- 
nilla Ice Cream, 69 
Passion Fruit Punch, 101 
Tangerine, 75 

Bitki, 174 

Black Bass, 141 

Blackberries, 103 
Blackberry Jam, 194 
Crumb Pudding, 52 

Blue Fish, 149-150 

Boccacio, 149-150 

Bonito, 132 

Bracken, 12 

Bread and Rolls 
Fig Nut, 108 
French Minced Gam 

Loaf, 136 
Orange Bread, 71 
Orange Rusks, 72 
Prune Cornbread, 109 
Prune Nut Bread, 109 
Simplicity Nut Bread, 

118 

Sunkist Raised Orange, 
71 

Broccoli, 12-13 
Baked, 13 

Brush Cherry (Eugenia), 
99 

Brussels Sprouts, 13 
a la Milanaise, 13 

Buffalo Berry, 103 

Cabbage, 13-14 
Chinese, 14 
Minestrone, 178 
Red, German Style, 14 



Red Cabbage Salad, 14 

Savoy or Curly, 14 

Sour- Cream Cole Slaw, 15 

Sweet-Sour Red, 14 

White, 14 
Cactus Fruit, 99 
Cakes 

Cake Fillings 
Apricot Puree, 106 
Fruit, 114 

Lady Baltimore, 114 
Lemon, 66 
Nut Cream, 119 
Passion Fruit, 102 

Frostings and Icings 
Lady Baltimore, 114 
Lemon, 66 
Lemon Butter, 66 
One-Two-Three, 118 
Orange Butter, 71 
Passion Fruit, 102 

Ice-Box Cakes 
Sunkist, 73 

Layer and Loaf Cakes 
Apple Coffee, 42 
Apple Sauce, 40 
Apricot, 105 
Best Ever Nut Loaf, 

118 

Black Cherry, 60 
Cherry and Nut Up- 
side-Down, 60 
Fig Frying-Pan, 78 
German Berry, 52 
Little Lemon, 66 
Marmalade Ginger- 
bread, 72 
Nut Sponge, 119 
Orange Sponge, 72 
Prune and Apricot 

Upside-Down, 113 
Prune Layer, 111 
Raisin Nut, 118 
Stanford Hospital 
Prune, 110 

Small Cakes (Cookies, 

Fruit Bars, etc.) 
Date Sticks Delicious. 

107 

Date Torte, 107-108 
Fudge Brownies, 117 
Pecan Patty- Cakes, 

116 

Spice Drops, 118 
Whole Wheat Date 
Cookies, 107 






Calavo, see Avocados, 45- 

51 
Candies 

Almond Rocha, 115 
Candied Grapefruit Peel, 

63 
Candied Orange or 

Lemon Peel, 74 
Fig Nibbles, 108 
Fruit-Nut Loaf, 114 
Holiday Tidbits, 113 
Lemon Cream Patties, 65 
Mexican Orange Candy, 

119 

Canning, see also Jellies 
and Preserves ; Pickles 
and Relishes 
Sources of information 

on, 199-201 
Cantaloupe 

Canta-Cherry Cup, 61 
Cocktail Rings, 81 
Melon and Grape-Juice 

Appetizers, 81 
and Peach Conserve, 188 
Cardoon, 12 
Carissa, 99 
Carrots, 33-35 

and Ripe Olive Salad, 85 
Casaba Melon, see Melons, 

80-81 

Catfish, 132 
Cauliflower, 15-16 
a la Creole, 16 
Custard, 16 
Golden, 16 
Oysters, 16 
Selection, preparation, 
and cooking, 15-16 
Cayenne Peppers, 23 
Celeriac (Celery Root), 17 
Celery, 16-18 
and Avocado Cocktail, 47 
with Brussels Sprouts, 13 
Celery Victor, 16-17 
in Chop Suey, 175 
in Chow Mein, 175 
Dependable Fish Souffle, 

127 
with Olive and Tongue, 

85 

Stuffed, 17 

Tomato Crab Salad, 138 
Celery Root, 17-18 
Balls, Danish, 17 
Cocktail, 17 



Index 

Chard, 18, 33 
Chayores, 27 

with Zucchini, 30 
Cheese 

in Asparagus Delight, 8 
Avocado Canape, 47 
Avocado Surprise, 48 
Baked Italian Rice, 25 
Cheese Sauce, 170 
in Chiles Rellenos, 174 
in Chili con Carne, 175 
Crab Noodle Ring, 139 
Dressing for Hearts of 

Lettuce, 97 
Enchiladas, 177 
Escalloped Zucchini 

with, 30 
Kippered Salmon Fluff, 

159 

Macaroni and Olives, 84 
"More," 84 
and Pears, 88 
and Persimmons, 89 
Piquant Salad, 112 
in Prune Appetizers, 112 
Ravioli, 179 
Rock Cod Mornay, 149- 

150 

Shrimp Scallop, 154 
Simple Escalloped Zuc- 
chini, 30 

Skimpy Shrimp, 153 
Stuffed Figs, 108 
Summer Squash Custard, 

29 

Sunday Night Sand- 
wiches, 84 

in Tangerine Salads, 75 
Tuna Fish and Rice, 26 
Cherimoya, 99 
Cherries, 59-60 
All-Western Salad, 61 
Black, in Cake, 60 
Black, in Loganberry 

Luscious, 190 
Canta-Cherry Cup, 61 
Cherry Conserve, 187 
Cherry Olives, 196 
Cherry Pie, 60 
Favorite Cherry Rolls, 61 
Imitation Maraschino, 

187 
and Nut Upside-Down 

Cake, 60 

and Peach Dessert, 61 
Western, in Jam, 187 



205 

Western Varieties 
(Table), 59 

Wild, 103 
Chervil, 19, 36 
Chestnuts, 115-116 
Chicken 

Windsor Sandwich 

Spread, 83 
Chiles Rellenos, 174 
Chili con Carne, 175 
Chilipepper, see Rock Cod 
Chinese Date, see Jujubes 
Chinese Dishes 

Chop Suey, 175 

Chow Mein, 175 

Eggs Foo Yung, 176 
Chinese Nuts, see Lychee 
Chinese Radishes, 18 
Chives, 19 
Chokecherry, see Cherries, 

Wild, 103 
Chop Suey, 175 
Chow Mein, 175 
Citron, 62 

Citrus Fruits, 61-75 
Clams, 132-137 

Baked, 135 

Beach, 133 

Butter, 133 

Clam Cakes, 136 

Cockles, 133 

Empire, 134 

French Minced Clam 
Loaf, 136 

Fried, 136 

Fried Razor, 136 

Gaper, or Horse, 134 

Geoducks, 134 

Hard- Shell, or Quahaug, 
133 

Horse, 134 

Jack-Knife, 134 

Minced Clam Soup, 135 

Moneyshell, 133 

Mud, 133 

Oregon Clam Bisque, 
135 

Pacific Coast Chowder, 
135 

Pismo, 134 

Preparation of, 133 

Purple, 133 

Quahaug, 133 

Razor, 133 

Sea, 133 



206 



Sunset All -Western Cook Book 



Clams (Continued) 
Soft-Shell, 133 
Souffle, 136 
Washington, 133 
Western Varieties, 133- 

134 

Cocktails, see Appetizers 
Cocktails, Sauces, see Sau- 
ces, Miscellaneous 
Cocoanuts 

in Curried Lobster, 176 
Codfish, 137 
Baked Kippered, 158 
a la Newburg, 159 
Spanish, 158 
Conserves, see Jellies and 

Preserves 

Cookies, see Cakes, Small 
Coot, 162 
Corn 

and Scalloped Olives, 84 
and Summer Squash, 28 
in Tamale Pie, 181 
Crabapple, 103 
Crabs, 137-140 
Avocado-Tomato Salad, 

49 
Avocados Stuffed with 

Crabmeat, 48 
Crab Cocktail, 138 
Cocktail with Arti- 
chokes, 6 
Cooking and serving, 

137-138 

Crab Flake Lorenzo, 140 
Crab Legs, Josephine, 

139 

Crab Louis, 138 
Crab Noodle Ring, 139 
Creamed, Baked in Avo- 
cado Shells, 50 
Deviled, 139 

Molded Crab Meat, 138 
and Tomato Salad, 138 
Cranberries, 53-54 

Cranberry Horseradish 

Relish, 54 

Cranberry-Juice Cock- 
tail, 54 

Cranberry Sherbet, 54 
Crystallized Relish, 54 
Gelatine in Orange 

Shells, 53 

Ground, in Sauce, 54 
Jellied Sauce, 54 
and Orange Relish, 54 



and Quince-Apple Jelly, 

194 

Stewed, 53 
Ten- Minute Cranberry 

Sauce, 53 
Wild, 103 

Crawfish, see Lobster 
Cream, Sour 
in Bitki, 174 
Cucumber Sauce, 139 
Molded Crab Meat, 138 
in Salad Dressings, 97 
Cress, 18 
Cucumbers 

Bread-and-Butter 

Pickles, 196 
Cucumber Sauce, 139 
Cucumber Olive Pickles, 

196 

Sweet Pickles, 196 
in Tomato Crab Salad, 

138 

Currants, 103 
in Loganberry Luscious, 

190 

Curried Lobster, 176 
Curried Shrimps and 

Oysters, 176 
Cuttlefish, see Squid, 154 

Danish Dishes 

Celery Root Balls, 17 
Rod Grod, 58 
Squash, 31 
Dasheen, 18 
Dates (Fresh, 76, 107; 

Dried, 107-108) 
Fruit Filling for Cakes, 

114 
as Garnishes for Salad, 

95 

in Pecan Patty-Cakes, 116 
Date Sticks Delicious, 

107 

Date Torte, 107-108 
Whole Wheat Date 

Cookies, 107 
Desserts (see also Cakes, 

Pies) 

Apricot, 43-44 
Apricot Bavarian Cream, 

44 
Apricot Sponge Cake, 

106 

Apricot Tapioca, 106 
Baked Apple Delight, 40 



Baked Orange Slices, 

Mapled, 70 

Baked Peach Halves, 86 
Baked Peaches, 86 
Baked Pears, 88 
Baked Prunes, 111 
Baked Quinces, 94 
Berry Cobbler, 52 
Berry Parfait, 52 
Best-of-All Strawberry 

Shortcake, 58 
Brown-Sugared Rice, 26 
Cake Crumb Fruit Des- 
sert, 95 

Calimyrna Fig Roll, 109 
Cherry-Peach Dessert, 

61 
Cherry Rolls, Favorite, 

61 

Fig Tapioca, 108 
Figs, Fresh, 77 
Fresh Prune Sauce, 92 
Fruit Cup Supreme, 95 
Grape Combination 

Salad, 79 

Grape Refreshment, 79 
Grape Tapioca, 79 
Grapefruit Macedoine, 

63 

Honeyed Peaches, 86 
Lemon Bavarian Cream, 

66 
Lemon Gelatine 

(Lemon Snow, Lemon 

Sponge), 65 
"McGinties," 105 
Orange Cream Sauce on 

Cake, 73 

Peach Conde, 85-86 
Peach Salad, 87 
Peach Whip, 86 
Pears, Piedmont, 89 
Pineappled Pears, 88 
Pink Pears, 88 
Plum Glorified Rice, 92 
Pomegranates, 93 
Quince Betty, 94 
Quince Sauce, 94 
Rice Butterscotch, 26 
Ring Mold Shortcake, 58 
Rod Grod, 58 
Sacramento Sunshine, 44 
Strawberries in Sponge 

Cake Ring, 57 
Strawberries, Western 

Style, 57 



Index 



207 



Summer Squash Custard, 

29 

Sunshine Fluff, 90 
Surprise Peaches, 87 
Western Apple Dump- 
lings, 42 
Frozen Desserts 
Apricot Cream, 107 
Apricot Dainty, 44 
Apricot Ice Cream, 

106 

Calavo Mousse, 51 
Cranberry Sherbet, 54 
Frozen Dessert, 95 
Frozen Golden Sur- 
prise, 102 
Grape Ice, 80 
Lemon Ice, 66 
Lemon Milk Sherbet, 

66 

Orange Delicious, 74 
Peach Ice Cream, 86 
Persimmon Fruit Ice, 

91 
Persimmon Ice Cream, 

90 
Prune Marshmallow 

Freeze, 111 

Strawberry Mousse, 58 
Puddings 

Apple Caramel Pud- 
ding, 41 

Baked Fig, 108 
Blackberry Crumb, 52 
Chocolate Rice Pud- 
ding, 26 

Fresh Peach, 87 
Grapefruit (see Grape- 
fruit Pie), 64 
Huckleberry Orange, 

5o 
Old-Fashioned Baked 

Rice, 26 

Orange and Rice, 73 
Paradise, 115 
Persimmon, 90 
Plain Raisin, 113 
Prune, 110 
Prune Apple Betty, 

110 

Prune Sunshine, 110 
Devilfish, see Squid, 154 
Dewberry, see Blackberry, 

103 

Dill, Fresh, 19 
Doves, Wild, 163 



Dried-Fruit Combinations, 

113-114 

Fruit Filling for Cakes, 
114 

Fruit-Nut Candy Loaf, 
114 

Holiday Tidbits, 113 

Lady Baltimore Cake 
Filling and Icing, 114 

Prune and Apricot Up- 
side-Down Cake, 113 
Dried Fruits, 104-114; see 
Apples, Apricots, 
Dates, Figs, Peaches, 
Prunes, Raisins 

Cooking and serving, 

104-105 
Ducks, Wild, 161 

East Indian Dishes 

Curried Lobster, 176 
Curried Shrimps, 176 

Ecrevisses, 140 

Eggplant, 18 

Eggs Foo Yung, 176 

Elderberries, 103; see Ber- 
ries 
Jelly, 188 

Enchiladas, 177 

Endive, 18-19 
Escarole, 19 

Entrees 

Albondigos, 174 
Avocado Souffle, 51 
Baked Abalone, Ano 

Nuevo Style, 130 
Baked Clams, 135 
Baked Kippered Cod, 

158 

Bitki, 174 

Broiled Lobster, 145 
Broiled Smoked Salmon, 

159 

Chiles Rellenos, 174 
Chili con Carne, 175 
Chop Suey, 175 
Chow Mein, 175 
Clam Cakes, 136 
Clam Souffle, 136 
Codfish a la Newburg, 

159 

Codfish Spanish, 158 
Corn Tamale Pie, 181 
Crab Flake Lorenzo, 140 
Crab Legs, Josephine, 139 
Crab Noodle Ring, 139 



Creamed Ham and 
Mushrooms with 
Olives, 83 
Creamed Olives on 

Toast, 83 

Curried Lobster, 176 
Curried Shrimps and 

Oysters, 176 
Dependable Fish Souffle, 

127 

Deviled Crab, 140 
Eggs Foo Yung, 176 
Enchiladas, 177 
Escalloped Fish, 127 
Fish Cioppino, 128 
Fish Timbales, 127 
French Minced Clam 

Loaf, 126 
Fried Clams, 136 
Frijoles, 177 
Halibut Loaf, or Rame- 
kins, 143-144 
Halibut Loaf de Luxe, 

144 

Hang Town Fry (Cali- 
fornia Fried Oysters), 
148 

Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 
Italian Macaroni, 178 
Kippered Alaska Cod in 

Cream, 158 
Kippered Salmon Fluff, 

159 

Lobster Farci, 146 
Lobster Newburg, 145 
Macaroni and Olives, 84 
Oyster Loaf, 148 
Oysters in Ramekins, 148 
Polenta, 178 
Potted Pigeons, 164 
Quail on Toast, 163 
Ravioli, 179 
Risotto, 180 
Rock Cod Mornay, 149 
Sand Dabs Meuniere, 150 
Sand Dabs Monterey, 151 
Scalloped Olives and 

Corn, 84 

Scalloped Olympia Oy- 
sters, 148 

Shrimp Scallop, 154 
Shrimps Newburg, 153 
Shrimps Oregonian, 153 
Skimpy Shrimp, 153 
Spinach Nut Ring, 119 
Squash Souffle, 31 



208 



Sunset All-Western Cook Book 



Entrees (Continued) 

Sukiyaki, 180 

Tagliarini, 180 

Tamal Perdido, 181 

Tamales, 181 

Eugenia (Brush Cherry), 
99 

Feijoa, 100 
Fennel, 19 

Figs (Fresh, 76-78; Dried, 

108-109) 

Baked Fig Pudding, 108 
Calimyrna Roll, 109 
Conserve, 188 
Double-Decked Fruit 

Salad, 95 
Fig Nibbles, 108 
Fig Nut Bread, 108 
Fig Tapioca, 108 
Fruit Filling for Cakes, 

114 

Frying-Pan Cake, 78 
Holiday Tidbits, 113 
Preparation and serving, 

77 

and Rhubarb Jam, 188 
Stuffed, 108 
Sweet Pickled, 198 
Varieties, 77 
Filberts, 116 
Fillings for Cakes, see 

Cake Fillings 
Finnochio, 19 
Fish, 122-159 

Alaska Black Cod, 130,158 
Albacore, 131 
Anchovies, 131 
Baked, 126 
Baked Slices, 126 
Barracuda, 131 
Bass, 131 
Bluefish, 132 
Boccacio. 132 
Boiled, 126 
Bonito, 132 
Broiled, 126 
Catfish, 132 
Chilipepper, 132, 149 
Cioppino, 128 
Codfish, 137 
Croquettes, Fritters, 

Balls, Patties, or 

Cakes, 127 

Dependable Souffle, 127 
Ecrevisses, 140 



Escalloped, 127 

Flounder, 140 

Flying Fish, 140 

Fried in Batter, 125 

Fried in Deep Fat, 123- 
124 

Fried, Pack Trip Style, 
125 

Game, see Game Fish 

Garnishes for, 124, 125 

Hake, 143 

Halibut, 143-144 

Herring, 144 

Kingfish, 144 

Mackerel, 146 

Mullet, 146 

Pan-Fried, 123 

Pike, 149 

Planked, 124 

Pompano, 149 

Preparation and cook- 
ing, 123-124 

Rock Bass, 149 

Rock Cod and Other 
Rockfishes, 149-150 

Salads, 128 

Salmon, 150 

Sand Dabs, 150 

Sardines, 151 

Sculpin, 151-152 

Shad, 152 

Shark, 152 

Sheepshead, 152 

Shellfish, see Abalone, 
Clams, Crabs, Ecre- 
visses, Lobsters, Mus- 
sels, Oysters, Scallops, 
Shrimps, Squid 

Skate, 154 

Skipjack, 154 

Smelt, or Surf Fish, 154 

Sole, 154 

Stuffing for Baked, 125 

Suggestions for foods to 
serve with, 125 

Swordfish, 155 

Timbales, 127 

Tomcod, 155 

Trout, 155 

Tuna, 155 

Tuna and Rice, 26 

Tuna Souffle, 127 

Turbot, 156 

Whitebait, 156 

Whitefish, 156 

Yellowtail, 156 



Kippered and Pickled 

Fish, 156-159 
Alaska Cod in Cream, 

158 

Baked Cod, 158 
Broiled Smoked 

Salmon, 159 
Codfish a la Newburg, 

159 

Codfish Spanish, 158 
Directions for kipper- 
ing and smoking, 157 
Salmon Fluff, 159 
Sauces for Fish, see 

Sauces, Miscellaneous 
Floribunda Apple, 100 
Flounder, 140 
Flying Fish, 140 
Foreign Dishes, see Chi- 
nese, Danish, East In- 
dian, German, Italian, 
Japanese, Mexican, 
Russian,Spanish Dishes 
Frijoles, 177 
Fritter Batter, 125 
Frogs, 140 

Frostings and Icings, see 
Cake Frostings and 
Icings 

Frozen Desserts, see Des- 
serts, Frozen 
Fruit Combinations, 94-95 ; 

see Salads 

Cake Crumb Fruit Des- 
sert, 95 
Double-Decked Fruit 

Salad, 95 

Frozen Dessert, 95 
Fruit Cup Supreme, 95 
Rhubarb Pie de Luxe, 94 
Fruits, 40-114 
Dried, 104-114 
Fresh, 40-95 
Sub-Tropical, 98-102 
Wild, 102-103 
For specific fruits, see 
Apples, Pears, etc. 

Came, Western, 159-168 
Bear, 167 

Broiled Squabs, 163 
Coot, 162 

Doves and Pigeons, 163 
Grouse, 163 
Hungarian Partridge 
and Quail, 163 



Index 



209 



Moose, 167 
Mountain Goat, 167 
Mountain Sheep, 167 
Pheasant, 162, 163 
Potted Pigeons or 

Doves, 164 
Prairie Chicken, 162 
Rabbit, 167 
Reindeer, 168 
Roast Duck, 161 
Roast Grouse, Prairie 

Hen, or Pheasant, 163 
Roast Squabs, 163 
Sage Hens, 162 
Sauces for Fish and, 

168-172 
Squirrels, 168 
Suggestions for Accom- 
panying Dishes, 162 
Venison, 164-166 
Wild Ducks, 160-162 
Wild Goose, 162 
Wild Turkey, 164 
Came Fish, Preparation 

and cooking, 141-143 
Carbanzo, 19, 34 
Garlic, 19 
Garnishes 

for Chow Mein, 175 
Cranberry Fruit, 53 
Cranberry Gelatine in 

Orange Shells, 53 
Ripe Olives, 82 
Stuffed Figs, 108 
Suggestions for Fish, 

124 

Toyon, 103 

Sec also Sauces, Miscel- 
laneous 

Geoducks, see Clams, 134 
German Dishes 

German Berry Cake, 52 
Giant Shaddock, 74 
Ginger, preserved, 86 
Gingerbread, see Cakes, 

Layer and Loaf 
Goose, Wild, 162 
Gooseberries, 103 
and Oregon Loganberry 

Jam, 189 
Granadilla, see Passion 

Fruit, 101-102 
Grapefruit, 62-64 
with Avocado and Per- 
simmon Salad, 48 
Avocado Canape, 63 



Candied Peel, 63 

in Cantaloupe Cocktail, 
81 

Grapefruit-Juice Dress- 
ing, 64 

Macedoine, 63 

Marmalade, 189 

in Molded Avocado Sal- 
ad, 51 

Pie, 64 

and Pomegranate Cup, 
63 

Serving ideas, 63 

Sunset Marmalade, 195 
Grape-Juice 

Appetizers, 81 

Dressing, 96 
Grapes, 78-80 

Combination Salad, 79 

Grape Ice, 80 

Grape Refreshment, 79 

Grape Tapioca, 79 

Grapricot Jam, 188 

and Ham, 79 

and Mint Jelly, 188 

Old-Fashioned Grape 
Pie, 78 

Seedless White, in Cock- 
tail Rings, 81 

Thompson Seedless 
Grape Pie, 79 

Wild, 103 

Crayfish, see Shark, 152 
Greens, 33-34 
Grouse, 162 

Roast, 163 
Guava, 100 

Jelly, 189 

Hake, 143 
Halibut, 143-144 
Loaf de Luxe, 144 
Loaf or Ramekins, 143- 

144 
Ham 

Baked with Grapes, 79 
Creamed, with Mush- 
rooms and Olives, 83 
with Orange, 72 
with Raisins and Sweet 

Potatoes, 112 
Windsor Sandwich 

Spread, 83 
Herbs and Flavorings from 

the Garden, 19-20 
Herring, 144 



Hominy 

Hominy Tamale Pie, 

182 
Honey Ball Melon, see 

Melons, 80-81 
Honeydew Melon, sec 

Melons, 80-81 
Hors d'Oeuvres, see Appe- 
tizers 

Horseradish 
Apple Sauce, 42 
in Cranberry Relish, 54 
Huckleberries, 55-56; see 

Berries 
Huckleberry Griddle 

Cakes, 55 
Huckleberry Muffins, 

55-56 

Orange Pudding, 56 
Wild, 103 
Hungarian Partridge, 163 

Ice Cream, see Desserts, 

Frozen 
Indian Nuts, see Pine 

Nuts, 116-117 
Inkfish, see Squid, 154 
Italian Dishes 

Baked Rice, 25 

Crab Flake Lorenzo, 140 

Fish Cioppino, 128 

Lobster Farci, 146 

Macaroni, 178 

Minestrone, 178 

Olives, 82 

Polenta, 178 

Ravioli, 179 

Risotto, 180 

Sauce for Pastes, 178 

Stuffed Artichokes, 4 

Tagliarini, 180 

See also Zucchini 

Jams, see Jellies and Pre- 
serves 
Japanese Dishes 

Bamboo Shoots, 9 
Sukiyaki, 180 
Jellies and Preserves, 184- 

195 

Apple Jelly, 186 

Apricot- Strawberry Jam, 
187 

Bartlett Pear Honey, 191 

Black or Persian Mul- 
berries, 190 



210 



Sunset All -Western Cook Book 



Jellies and Preserves 

(Continued) 

Cantaloupe-Peach Con- 
serve, 188 

Cherry Conserve, 187 
Cherry Plum Jelly, 192 
Damson Plum Jam, 192 
Difficulties of making, 

185-186 

Elderberry Jelly, 188 
Fig Conserve, 188 
Fig-Rhubarb Jam, 188 
Fresh Prune Conserve, 

192 

Grape-Mint Jelly, 188 
Grapefruit Marmalade, 

189 

Grapricot Jam, 188 
Guava Jelly, 189 
Imitation Maraschino 

Cherries, 187 
Kumquat Marmalade, 189 
Loganberry Luscious, 190 
Loquat Jelly, 189 
Mango Jelly, 190 
Mango Marmalade, 190 
Manzanita Jelly, 190 
Orange Marmalade, 191 
Oregon Grape Jelly, 191 
Oregon Loganberry and 

Gooseberry Jam, 189 
Pectin Test, 184 
P-G Preserves, 191 
Pineapple Preserves, 192 
Pinecot Preserves, 192 
Pomegranate Catsup, 193 
Pomegranate Jelly, 192 
Preserved Damson 

Plums, 192 

Preserved Whole Per- 
simmons, 191 
Prickly Pear Jelly, 193 
Quince and Orange Con- 
serve, 193 
Quince- Apple- Cranberry 

Jelly, 194 

Quince Honey, 194 
Quince Preserves, 193 
Red Raspberry Jam, 194 
Ripe Apricot Jam, 186 
Roselle Jelly, 194 
Rules and regulations, 

184 
Simplicity Apricot Jam, 

186 
Spiced Loquats, 190 



Strawberry Preserves, 

195 

Sunset Marmalade, 195 
Tangerine Marmalade, 

195 
Western Cherry Jam, 

187 
Wild Strawberry Jam, 

195 
See suggestions under 

Sub-Tropical Fruits 

(98-102) ; Wild Fruits 

of the West (102-103) 
Jerusalem Artichokes, 6 
Jujubes, 100 

Sweet Pickles, 196 

Kei Apple, 99-100 
Kingfish, 144 
Kohlrabi, 20 
Kumquats, 64 

Marmalade, 189 

Lemons, 64-68 
Bavarian Cream, 66 
Best Lemonade, 65 
Butter Icing, 66 
Cake Pie, 67 
Candied Peel, 74 
Cream Patties, 65 
Filling, 66 
Frosting, 66 
Gelatine, 65 
Ice, 66 
Lemon-Juice Dressings, 

66, 98 

Lemon Mayonnaise, 98 
Lemon Snow, 65 ; see 

Lemon Gelatine 
Lemon Sponge, 65 
Little Lemon Cakes, 

66 

Meringue Pie, 67-68 
Milk Sherbet, 66 
and Orange Marmalade, 

191 
and Parsley Butter 

Sauce, 65 

Sauce for Desserts, 65 
in Tangerine Marma- 
lade, 195 
Lima Beans, see Beans, 

Lima, 10-11 
Limes, 68 
Litchee, see Lychee Nuts 

(Chinese Nuts), 116 



Lobster (or Crawfish), 
144-146 

Broiled, 145 

Curried, 176 

Farci, 146 

Newburg, 145 

Preparation and cooking, 

145 
Loganberries, 56-57 

Jelly Sauce, 56 

Logan-Ginger Punch, 56 

Loganberry Luscious, 190 

Muffins, 57 

Oregon, and Gooseberry 
Jam, 189 

Punch, 57 

Sauce for Desserts, 57 
Loquats, 100-101 

Loquat Jelly, 189 

Spiced, 190 
Lychee Nuts, 116 

Macaroni 

Italian, 178 

and Olives, 84 

Shrimp Scallop, 154 
Mackerel, 146 
Mangos, 101 

Mango Jelly, 190 

Marmalade, 190 
Manzanita, 103 

Jelly, 190 

Marinated Meats, 167 
Marjoram, 20 
Marmalade, sec Jellies and 

Preserves 
Marrons, see Chestnuts, 

115-116 
Marshmallows 

Paradise Pudding, 115 

Prune Marshmallow 

Freeze, 111 
Meat Dishes 

Albondigos (Spanish 
Meat Balls), 174 

Bitki, 174 

Chili con Came, 175 

Chop Suey, 175 

Chow Mein, 175 

Eggs Foo Yung, 176 

Enchiladas, 177 

Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 

Italian Macaroni, 178 

Italian Sauce for Pastes, 
178 

"More," 84 




Polenta, 179 

Ravioli, 179 

Sukiyaki, 180 

Swiss Steak with Olives, 
85 

Tamal Perdido, 181 

Tamales, 181 

Veal and Nut Roll, 120 

See also Game, Ham; 
Sauces, Miscellaneous 
Melon Pawpaw, sec Pa- 
paya, 101 
Melon Shrub, 102 
Melons, 80-81 

Artistic Fruit Salad in 
Melon Bowl, 81 

Cantaloupe Cocktail, 81 

and Grape- Juice Appeti- 
zers, 81 

Selection and prepara- 
tion, 80 

Mexican Chili Peppers, 23 
Mexican Dishes 

Chiles Rellenos, 174 

Chili con Carne, 175 

Corn Tamale Pie, 181 

Enchiladas, 177 

Frijoles, 177 

Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 

Tamal Perdido, 181 

Tamales, 181 
Minestrone, 178 
Mint, 20, 40, 172 
Moose, 167 

Mulligan, 167 
Mountain Coat, 167 

Meat Marinated, 167 
Mountain Sheep 

Roast, 167 

Mudhen, see Coot, 162 
Muffins 

Huckleberry, 55-56 

Loganberry, 57 
Mulberries, 57 

Jelly, 190 
Mullet, 146 
Mushrooms, 21 

in Chow Mein, 175 

and Creamed Ham, with 
Olives, 83 

Fresh, in Sauce, 172 

Italian Macaroni, 178 

Italian Sauce for Pastes, 
178 

with Oysters in Rame- 
kins, 148 



Index 

in Risotto, 180 
in Sukiyaki, 180 
in Tagliarini, 180 
Mussels, 146-147 

Natal Plum, see Carissa, 99 

Nectarines, 82 

Noodles 

Chow Mein, 175 
Crab Ring, 139 
Noodle Dough, 179 

Nut Bread, see Bread and 
Rolls 

Nuts, Western, 114-120 
Almond Cream Pie, 115 
Almond Rocha Candy, 

115 

Almonds, 114, 187 
Cherry Conserve, 187 
Chestnut Stuffing, 116 
Chestnuts, 115-116 
and Fig Bread, 108 
Fig Conserve, 188 
Filberts, 116, 187 
Lychee (or Litchee), 116 
Paradise Pudding, 115 
Pecans, 116, 187 
Pine, or Pinons, 116-117 
Pistachio, 117 
and Prune Bread, 109 
and Prune Pudding, 110 
Salted Almonds, 114 
Walnuts, 117-120 

Octopus, see Squid, 154-155 
Olives, 82-85 

Baked Italian Rice, 25 

in Blankets, 83 

and Carrot Salad, 85 

in Codfish Spanish, 158 

with Creamed Ham and 
Mushrooms, 83 

Creamed on Toast, 83 

Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 

Italian, 82 

and Macaroni, 84 

"More," 84 

Sandwiches, 83 

Scalloped, with Corn, 84 

Sunday Night Sand- 
wiches, 84 

Stuffed Tomato Salad, 
32 

with Swiss Steak, 85 

Tamales, 181 

and Tongue, 85 



211 

Windsor Sandwich 

Spread, 83 
Omelets 
Artichoke, 5 
Rice, 25 
Onions, 21-22 
Bread-and-Butter 

Pickles, 196 
in Chop Suey, 175 
in Chow Mein, 175 
Cucumber Olive Pickles, 

196 

Enchiladas, 177 
French Soup en Cas- 
serole, 21 
Fried, 21-22 
Pepper Relish, 198 
Potage Soubise, 22 
Soup, 22 
in Sukiyaki, 180 
in Tagliarini, 180 
Oranges, 68-74 
in Baked Fig Pudding, 

108 

Baked Pickled Slices, 70 
Baked Relish, 71 
Baked Slices, Mapled, 70 
Baked Spiced, 70 
Baked Stuffed, 70 
Baking, 69-70 
Candied Peel, 74 
in Cantaloupe Cocktail, 81 
and Cranberry Relish, 54 
Cream Sauce, 73 
Delicious (Frozen), 74 
Faerie Salad, 93 
with Ham, 72 
Huckleberry Pudding, 56 
Marmalade, 191 
Marmalade Gingerbread, 

72 

Mexican Candy, 119 
Orange Bread, 71 
Orange-Juice Don'ts, 69 
Orange Juice with Fruit 

Ice, 69 

Orange Rusks, 72 
Orange Souffle Pie, 73 
and Quince Conserve, 193 
and Rice Pudding, 73 
Sponge Cake, 72 
Sunkist Ice-Box Cake, 73 
Sunkist Raised Orange 

Rolls, 71 

Sunset Marmalade, 195 
Oranges, Sour, 74 



212 



Sunset AM -Western Cook Book 



Oregano, 20 

Oregon Crabapple, see 

Crabapple, 103 
Oregon Crape (Barberry), 
see Barberries, 102, 191 
Oysters, 147-149 
Fried, 147 

Hang Town Fry, 148 
Oyster Loaf, 148 
Oyster Stew, 149 
in Ramekins, 148 
Scalloped Olympia, 148 
and Shrimps Curried, 
176 

Papaya, 101 

Paris Artichoke, 2 

Parsley, 20 

Passion Fruit (Granadilla), 

101-102 

Filling for Cake, 102 
Frozen Golden Surprise, 

102 

Icing for Cake, 102 
Punch, 101 

Pastry 

Crumbly Pie Crust, 67 
Egg-and- Cream Pie 

Crust, 106 

Hot Water Pie Crust, 68 
Pie Crust for Tamal 
Perdido, 181 

Peaches 

Baked Halves, 86 
and Cantaloupe Con- 
serve, 188 

and Cherry Dessert, 61 
Clingstone, 85, 197 
Double-Decked Fruit 

Salad, 95 
Dried, 105 
Fresh Pudding, 87 
Fried, 87 
Honeyed, 86 
Lye Peeling of, 197 
Peach Conde, 85-86 
Peach Ice Cream, 86 
Peach Salad Dessert, 87 
Peach Surprise, 87 
Peach Whip, 86 
P-G Preserves, 191 
Spiced Green, 198 
Sweet Pickled, 197-198 

Pears, 86, 88-89 
Baked, 88 
Bartlett Honey, 191 



Christmas Salad, 49 

Emerald Pear Salad, 88 

P-G Preserves, 191 

Piedmont, 89 

Pineappled, 88 

Pink, 88 

Salad Unusual, 89 
Peas, 22, 33 

with Asparagus Tips, 8 

in Carrot and Ripe Olive 
Salad, 85 

a la Madame, 22 
Pecans, 116 

Cherry and Nut Upside- 
Down Cake, 60 

Patty- Cakes, 116 
Pectin Test, 184 
Peppers, 22-23 

Avocado Canape, 47, 48 

Baked Italian Rice, 25 

Chiles Rellenos, 174 

Chili Fritters, 23 

Codfish Spanish, 158 

Frijoles, 177 

Green, a la Seattle, 23 

Green Rice, 25 

Italian Macaroni, 178 

Macaroni and Olives, 84 

Pepper Jam, 198 

Pimiento Sauce, 170 

Preserved in Brine, 198 

Relish, 198 

Tomato Crab Salad, 138 
Persian Melon, see Melons 
Persimmons, 89-91 

Avocado and Grapefruit 
Salad, 48 

Cream Pie, 90 

Fruit Ice, 91 

Ice Cream, 90 

Molded Salad, 90 

Preparation and serving, 
89 

Preserved Whole, 191 

Pudding, 90 

Salad, 89 

Stuffed Persimmon 
Salad, 90 

Sunshine Fluff, 90 
Pheasants, 162-163 
Phenomenal Berry, sec Lo- 
ganberries, 56-57 
Pickles and Relishes, 195- 
199 

Apple Horseradish 
Sauce, 42 



Baked Orange Relish, 71 
Baked Spiced Oranges,70 
Bread-and-Butter 

Pickles, 196 
Cherry Olives, 196 
Cranberry Horseradish 

Relish, 54 

Cranberry Orange Rel- 
ish, 54 
Crystallized Cranberry 

Relish, 54 
Cucumber Olive Pickles, 

196 
Jujube Sweet Pickles, 

196 
Lye Peeling of Peaches, 

197 

Pepper Jam, 198 
Pepper Relish, 198 
Peppers Preserved in 

Brine, 198 

Pickled Walnuts, 198 
Pickled Watermelon 

Rind, 199 

Pomegranate Catsup, 193 
Ripe Olives, 82 
Spiced Green Peaches, 

198 
Sweet Cucumber Pickles, 

196 
Sweet Pickled Peaches, 

197-198 

Pies, see Desserts 
Almond Cream, 115 
Apricot Chiffon, 106 
Apricot Meringue, 44 
California Prune, 111 
Cherry, 60 
Elderberry, 103 
Fresh Berry, 51 
Fresh Fig, 77 
Graham Apple, 41 
Grapefruit, 64 
Green Apple, 41 
Ham-Apple, 43 
Lemon Cake Pie, 67 
Lemon Meringue, 67-68 
Old-Fashioned Grape, 78 
Orange Souffle, 73 
Persimmon Cream, 90 
Prune Whip, 109 
Rhubarb Pie de Luxe, 94 
Sonny Boy, 113 
Sour Cream Raisin, 112 
Thompson Seedless 

Grape, 79 



Index 



213 



See suggestions for berry 
fillings under Wild 
Fruits of the West 
Pigeons, Wild, 163-164 

Potted, 164 
Pike, 149 
Pimientos, 23 
Pine Nuts, 116-117 
Pineapple, 91 
Avocado Salad, 48 
Baked Crushed, in 

Sauce, 172 

and Fig Conserve, 188 
Fresh, Camille, 91 
in Grape Combination 

Salad, 79 

and Grape Tapioca, 79 
and Mint Sauce, 171 
Pineappled Pears, 88 
Pinecot Preserves, 192 
Preserves, 192 
Sunday Night Supper 

Salad, 44 
Pineapple Cuava, see 

Feijoa, 100 

Pinons, see Pine Nuts, 116 
Pistachio, 117 
Plums (and Prunes) 
Cantaloupe Cocktail, 81 
Cherry Plum Jelly, 192 
Damson, in Jam, 192 
Damson, Preserved, 192 
Fresh Prune Sauce, 92 
P-G Preserves, 191 
Plum Glorified Rice, 92 
Prunes (see Plums and 

Prunes) 
(Fresh, 91-92; Dried, 

109-112) 
Appetizers, 112 
Apple Betty, 110 
and Apricot Upside- 
Down Cake, 113 
Baked, 111 
California Prune Pie, 

111 

Cornbread, 109 
Fresh Prune Conserve, 

192 

Fresh Prune Sauce, 92 
Layer Cake, 111 
Marshmallow Freeze, 

111 

Nut Bread, 109 
Pacific Salad, 112 
Piquant Salad, 112 



Prune Pudding, 110 
Prune W r hip Pie, 100 
Stanford Hospital Prune 

Cake, 110 

Sunshine Pudding, 110 
Polenta, 178 
Pomegranates, 93 
Appetizer, 93 
Catsup, 193 
Faerie Salad, 93 
Grapefruit and, 63 
Jelly, 192 
Pompano, 149 
Potatoes 

in Kippered Salmon 

Fluff, 159 

and Walnut Salad, 119 
Potatoes, Sweet, 32 
Fried in Marmalade, 

32 
with Ham and Raisins, 

112 

Maple- Nut, 120 
Miss Shapleigh's, in Cas- 
serole, 32 

Prairie Chicken, 162 
Prairie Hen, 163 
Prawns, see Shrimp, 152- 

154 
Preserves, see Jellies and 

Preserves 
Prickly Pears 
Jelly, 193 

See also Cactus Fruit, 99 
Puddings, see Desserts, 

Puddings 
Punch, see Beverages 

Quail, 163 

on Toast, 163 
Quinces, 93-94 
and Apple- Cranberry 

Jelly, 194 
Baked, 94 
Quince Honey, 194 
and Orange Conserve, 

193 

Preparation, 94 
Preserves, 193 
Quince Betty, 94 
Quince Sauce, 94 

Rabbit, 167-168 
Baked in Milk, 167 
Fricasseed, 168 



Raisins, 104-105, 112-114 

Cherry Conserve, 187 

Fruit Filling for Cakes, 
114 

Fruit-Nut Candy Loaf, 
114 

Holiday Tidbits, 113 

Lady Baltimore Cake 
Filling, 114 

and Nut Cake, 118 

Plain Pudding, 113 

Sonny Boy Pie, 113 

Sour Cream Raisin Pie, 
112 

Spice Drop Cookies, 118 

with Sweet Potatoes and 

Ham, 112 
Raspberries 

Jam, 194 

in Loganberry Luscious, 
190 

Peach Salad Dessert, 87 
Ravioli, 179 
Red Fish, California, see 

Sheepshead, 152 
Reindeer, 168 
Rhubarb 

and Fig Jam, 188 

Pie de Luxe, 94-95 

Rod Grod, 58 
Rice, 24-26 

a la Apricots, 45 

Baked Italian, 25 

Berry Parfait, 52 

Boiled, 24 

Brown, 24 

Brown- Sugared, 26 

Butterscotch, 25 

Cakes, with Meats, 25 

Chocolate Rice Pudding, 
26 

Croquettes, 24 

Escalloped Fish, 127 

Green, 25 

Macaroni and Olives, 84 

Omelet, 25 

and Orange Pudding, 73 

Peach Conde, 85-86 

Pears, Piedmont, 89 

Plum Glorified, 92 

Pudding, Old-Fashioned, 
26 

Red, 25 

Risotto, 180 

Shrimps Oregonian, 153 

Steamed, 24 



214 



Sunset All-Western Cook Book 



Rice (Continued) 
Tuna Fish and, 26 
Wild, 25 

Risotto, 180 

Rock Bass, 149 

Rock Cod (and Other 
Rockfishes), 149-150 

Rolls, see Bread and Rolls 

Roselle Jelly, 194 

Rosemary, 20 

Russian Dishes 
Bitki, 174 

Sablefish, see Alaska Black 

Cod, 130-131 
Sage, 20 
Sage Hens, 162 
Salad Dressings, 96-98 
Avocado, 50 
Calavo Cream, 49 
Calavonnaise, 49 
Cheese, for Hearts of 

Lettuce, 97 
for Crab Louis, 138 
Cucumber Sauce, 139 
French, 96 
French Honey, 96 
Fruit Salad, 81 
Golden (Cooked), 98 
Grapefruit Juice, 64 
Grape-Juice, 96 
Green Relish Mayon- 
naise, 98 

Lemon Cooked, 98 
Lemon Mayonnaise, 98 
Lemon Juice in, 66 
Low- Calorie, 96 
One-Minute Mayonnaise, 

97 

Peach Salad Dessert, 87 
Peanut Cream, 97 
Russian, 97 
Simple Cream, for Fruit, 

97 

Sour- Cream, 97 
Sunkist Special Cooked, 

98 

Thousand Island, 97 
Victor, for Vegetables, 36 
Salads 

All- Western Cherry, 61 
Apple Relish, 41 
Apricot, 43-44 
Artistic Fruit, in Melon 

Bowl, 81 
Avocado and Shrimp, 48 



Avocado Cocktail, 46 
Avocado, Grapefruit, 
and Persimmon, 48 
Avocado Mousse, 50 
Avocado- Pineapple, 48 
Avocado Surprise, 48 
Avocado Stuffed with 

Crabmeat, 48 
Avocado-Tomato-Crab, 

49 

Baked Orange, 70 
CalavoTreasure-Chest,49 
Carrot and Ripe Olive, 85 
Cherimoya, 99 
Christmas, 49 
Crab Louis, 138 
with Cranberry Jelly, 

54-55 

Double-Decked Fruit, 95 
Emerald Pear, 88 
Faerie, 93 
Fish, 128 
Fresh Figs in, 77 
Grape Combination, 79 
Green Combination, 35 
Guava, 100 
Jellied Combination 

Vegetable, 35 
Kumquat, 64 
Mangos, 101 
Melon Shrub, 102 
Molded Avocado, 51 
Molded Crab Meat, 138 
Molded Persimmon, 90 
Old-Fashioned Apple, 40 
Olive and Tongue, 85 
Pacific, 112 
Peach Dessert, 87 
Pear Unusual, 89 
Persimmon, 89 
Piquant, 112 
Red Cabbage, 14 
San Jose Raw Vege- 
table, 35 

Sour- Cream Cole Slaw, 1 5 
Stuffed Avocados, 49 
Stuffed Persimmon, 90 
Stuffed Tomato, 32 
Sunday Night Supper, 44 
Sweet-Sour Cabbage, 15 
Tangerine Salad Sugges- 
tions, 75 

Tomato Crab, 138 
Tomato Sandwich, 32 
Veal and Nut Roll, 120 
Walnut- Potato, 119 



Suggestions are listed 
with Salad Dressings 
recipes. See also 
Herbs and Flavorings 
Salal, 103 
Salmon, 150 
Broiled Smoked, 159 
Kippered Fluff, 159 
Salmon Berry, 103 
Salsify, 26-27 

Scalloped, 26 
Sand Dabs, 150-151 
Meuniere, 150 
Monterey, 151 
Sandwiches 
Avocado Dressing, 50 
Bacon and Avocado, 48 
Boiled Abalone, 130 
Ripe Olives, 82, 83 
Smoked Mackerel, 158 
Sunday Night Olive, 84 
Windsor Spread, 83 
Santa Glaus Melon, see 

Melons, 80-81 
Sapote, 102 
Sardines, 150 
Sauces 

For Desserts 
Apricot, 45 
Baked Peach Halves, 

86 

Caramel, 113 
Cherry, 61 
Foamy, 109 
Foamy Custard, 87 
Hard, 110 
Lemon, 65 
Loganberry, 57 
Loganberry Telly, 56 
Mulberry, 57 
Orange Cream, 73 
Passion Fruit, 102 
Hollandaise, 35-37 
Miscellaneous (for Fish 
and Game, 168-172; 
also for Meat, Veg- 
etables, and Entrees) 
Apple-Horseradish, 42 
Baked Crushed Pine- 
apple, 172 
Barbecue, 170 
Bechamel, 171 
Beurre Noire, 169 
Boiled Fish, 169 
Broiled Fish, 169 
Broiled Lobster, 168 



Index 



215 



Broiled Mayonnaise, 37 
Chantilly, 36 
Cheese, 170 
Creole or Tomato, 171 
Cucumber, 139 
Currant Mint, 171 
Easy Hollandaise, 36 
for Enchiladas, 177 
Fresh Mushroom, 172 
Grape, for Ham, 79, 171 
Ground Cranberry, 54 
for Halibut, 144 
Horseradish, 171 
for Hot Fish, 168 
Italian Dressing for 

Cold Meats, 172 
for Italian Pastes, 178 
Lemon, 65 
Lemon-Parsley Butter, 

65 

Lobster, 144, 145 
Maitre d'Hotel, 169 
Meat, Italian, 179 
Mint, 172 
for Mixed Sea-Food 

Cocktails, 169 
Mock Hollandaise, 36 
Never-Fail Holland- 
aise, 37 
Onion, 170 

Orange, with Ham, 72 
Oregon Crab Cocktail, 

169 

Pimiento, 170 
Pineapple, 171 
Polenta Meat Sauce, 

179 

Quick Hollandaise, 35 
Real Hollandaise, 36 
Really Good Brown 

Gravy, 170 
for Roast Duck, 161 
Simple Cocktail, 169 
Sour Cream, 97 
Supreme, 46 
Tagliarini, 180 
Tartar, 168 
Ten-Minute Cran- 
berry, 53 

Tomato, for Baked 
Striped Bass, 132 
for Vegetables, 35, 36 
White, 170 
White Sauce Addi- 
tions, 171 
See also Salad Dressings 



Scallops, 151 
Sculpin, 151-152 
Sea Bass, see Bass, 131 
Sea Fig, see Beach Straw- 
berry, 102 

Sea Food, see Clams, Crabs, 
Ecrevisses, Lobster, 
Mussels, Oysters, Scal- 
lops, Shrimps, Squid 
Service Berry, 103 
Shad, 152 

Shark, or Crayfish, 152 
Sheepshead, 152 
Shortcake 

Best-of-All Strawberry, 

58 

Huckleberry, 56 
Ring Mold, 58 
Shrimps, 152-154 
Avocado Salad, 48 
Creamed, Baked in Avo- 
cado Shells, 50 
Newburg, 153 
Oregonian, 153 
and Oysters Curried, 176 
Shrimp Scallop, 154 
Skimpy, 153 
Stuffed Tomato Salad, 

32 

Skate, 154 
Skipjack, 154 
Smelt, 154 
Sole, 154 
Soup Bouquet, 20 
Soups 

Abalone Chowder, 130 
Avocado with Clam and 

Tomato Broth, 47 
Boiled Abalone, 130 
Bouillon with Avocado,47 
Clam Broth, 133 
French Onion en Casser- 

role, 21 

Jellied Tomato, 32-33 
Lima Bean, 10 
Minced Clam, 135 
Minestrone, 178 
Onion, 22 
Oregon Clam Bisque, 

135 

Oyster Stew, 149 
Pacific Coast Clam 

Chowder, 135 
Potage Soubise, 22 
Venison Mulligan Stew, 
166 



Sour Cream 

in Bitki, 174 
Cucumber Sauce, 139 
Molded Crab Meat, 138 
in Salad Dressings, 97 
Spaghetti 

in Minestrone, 178 
"More," 84 

Spanish Dishes (see Mexi- 
can Dishes) 
Albondigos, 174 
Codfish, 158 
String Beans, 11 
Spinach, 27, 33 
Loaf with Tomato 

Sauce, 27 
Nut Ring, 119 
in Ravioli, 179 
Squabs 

Broiled, 163 
Roast, 163 
Squash, 27-31 
Baked, 29 
Cooking, 28 
Danish, 31 
Souffle, 31 
Stuffed, 28 

Italian, see Squash, Zuc- 
chini, 29-31 
Summer 
Boiled, 28 
and Catsup, 28 
Custard, 29 
Fried Simplicity, 28 
Native Son, 28 
Winter, 31 
Baked, 31 
Souffle, 31 
Steamed, 31 
Zucchini, 29-31 

Baked, Stuffed, with- 
out Meat, 30 
Baked with Bacon, 29, 

31 

Broiled, 29 
with Cheese, 29 
Simple Escalloped, 30 
Escalloped, with 

Cheese, 30 
French Fried, 29 
Stuffed, with Meat, 30 
Squid (Cuttlefish, Devilfish, 
Inkfish, Octopus), 154 
Squirrels, 168 
Steelhead, 155 



216 



Sunset All-Western Cook Book 



Strawberries, 57-58 
and Apricot Jam, 187 
Best-of-All Shortcake, 

58 

Mousse, 58 
Preserves, 195 
Ring Mold Shortcake, 58 
Rod Grod, 58 
in Sponge Cake Ring, 57 
Western Style, 57 
Wild Strawberry Jam, 

195 

Strawberry Tree, 102 
Striped Bass, see Bass, 131 
Sub-Tropical Fruits, 98-102 
Banana, 90, 99 
Cactus Fruit, or Prickly 

Pear, 99 
Carissa, or Natal Plum, 

99 

Cherimoya, 99 
Eugenia, or Brush 

Cherry, 99 
Feijoa, 100 
Flowering Apple, Plum, 

Quince, etc., 100 
Frozen Golden Surprise, 

102 

Guava, 100 
Jujubes, 100 
Kei Apple, 99-100 
Loquat, 100 
Mangos, 101 
Melon Shrub, 102 
Papaya, or Melon Paw- 
paw, Melon Tree, 101 
Passion Fruit, or Grana- 

dilla, 101 
Passion Fruit Filling for 

Cake, 102 
Passion Fruit Icing for 

Cake, 102 

Passion Fruit Punch, 101 
Sapote, 102 
Strawberry Tree, 102 
Tree Tomato, 100 
Sukiyaki, 180 
Summer Savory, 20 
Surf Fish, see Smelt, 154 
Sweet Peppers, 23 
Sweet Potatoes, see Pota- 
toes, Sweet 
Swordfish, 155 



Syrups 

Cinnamon Candy, 48 
Emerald Pear Salad, 88 
for Pickling, 196, 197 
Spiced, for Oranges, 70 
for Watermelon Pick- 
ling, 199 

Tabasco, 23 
Tagliarini, 180 
Tamales, 181 

Corn Tamale Pie, 181 

Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 

Tamal Perdido, 181 
Tangerines, 74-75 

Beverages and Appe- 
tizers, 75 

Jellied Cocktail, 75 

Marmalade, 195 

Preparation, 75 

Salad Suggestions, 75 
Tarragon, 20 
Thimble Berry, 103 
Thyme, 20 
Tomatoes, 32-33 

Avocado-Tomato-Crab 
Salad, 49 

Avocado with Clam and 
Tomato Broth, 47 

Broiled, 32 

Codfish Spanish, 158 

in Crab Salad, 138 

in Enchiladas, 177 

in Escalloped Zucchini 
with Cheese, 30 

Fried, 32 

Jellied Tomato Soup, 32 

Tomato Custard, 33 

and Rice, 25 

Stuffed in Salad, 32 

Tagliarini, 180 

Tomato Jelly, 33 

Tomato Sandwich Salad, 
32 

Tomato Sauce, 171 
Tomcod, 155 
Tortillas, see Enchiladas, 

177 

Toyon, 103 
Tree Tomato, 100 
Trout, 141-143, 155 
Tuna Fish, 155 

Dependable Souffle, 127 

and Rice, 26 



Turbot, 156 
Turkey, Wild, 164 

Vegetable Plate Meals, 34 
Vegetables, 2-37 

Sauces for, 36, 65 
Venison, 164-166 

Dinner Menu, 166 

Mulligan Stew, 166 

Pot Roast, 165 

Rib Steak, 165 

Tenderloin, 165 

Walnuts, 117-120 
"Best Ever" Nut Loaf 

Cake, 118 

Cream Filling, 119 
Fruit-Nut Candy Loaf, 

114 

Fudge Brownies, 117 
Maple-Nut Sweet Pota- 
toes, 120 
Mexican Orange Candy, 

119 

Pickled, 198 
and Potato Salad, 119 
Raisin Nut Cake, 118 
Simplicity Bread, 118 
Spice Drop Cookies, 118 
Spinach Ring, 119 
Sponge Cake, 119 
and Veal Roll, 120 
Watercress, 20 
Watermelons 
Artistic Fruit Salad in 

Melon Bowl, 81 
and Grape-Juice Appe- 
tizers, 81 

Pickled Rind, 199 
Whitebait, 156 
Whitefish, 156 
Wild Fowl, see Game 
Wild Fruits of the West, 

102-103 

Wintergreen Berries, see 
Salal, 103 

rellowtail, 156 
Youngberries, 51, 58 

Zucchini, see Squash, 
Zucchini, 29-31 














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