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Class.
Book-
A SURVEY
HANCOCK COUNTY
M^IJSTE.
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SURVEY OF HANCOCK COUNTY.
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A SURVEY
ha:^cock county,
M^IISTE.
BY SAMUEL WASSOX.
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MEMBER OF STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE.
AUGUSTA:
SPRAGUE, OWEN & NASH, PRINTERS TO THE STATE.
1878.
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PREFACE.
At the meeting of the Board of Agriculture held at Calais,
a resolution was passed, urging the importance to our agri-
cultural literature of the publication of surveys of the differ-
ent counties in the State, giving brief notes of their history,
industrial resources and agricultural capabilities ; and direct-
ing the Secretary to procure such contributions for the annual
reports. In conformity with this resolution, and also as car-
rying out the settled policy of the Board in this respect —
evidences of which are found in the publication of similar
reports in previous volumes — I give herewith a Survey of the
County of Hancock, written by a gentleman who has been a
member of the Board of Agriculture, uninterruptedly, from
its first organization, and who is in every way well fitted for
the work, which he has so well performed. It was originally
published in the Ellsworth American, during the summer of
1876, but has been especially revised for the present report.
In many respects the history of Hancock County is a most
interesting one ; some of its industries are important, and
quite distinct from those of other counties, and its agricul-
ture, though not so important as that of some other sections
in the State, is such as to present many interesting features
and practices. The survey is full and satisfactory, and will
be welcomed by the people of the State in the complete and
permanent form in which it is now given to them.
SAMUEL L. BOARDMAN,
Secretary State Board of Agriculture.
Augusta, Me.
SURVEY OF HANCOCK COUNTY.
Introduction.
1. Those who are familiar with ancient mythology, will
recollect the story of the good Isis who went forth wandering
to gather up the parts and fragments of her murdered and
scattered Osiris, fondly, ytt vainly hoping that she might
recover and recombine all the separate parts, and once more
view her husband. With equal assiduity, has the writer of
this Survey been for years engaged, at intervals, in collecting
the "scattered fragments" of information relating to Hancock
County, and has arranged his imperfect materials in the form
which they now exhibit.
2. Position. — This, one of the seaboard counties of east-
ern Maine, occupies a geographical position, mainly l)etween
the ' parallels of 43° 58^ and 45° 20' north latitude, and
between (37° 47' -and fi8° 30' west longitude. Its northern
parallel crosses the State, very nearly within its geographical
centre.
Its boundaries are Washington county upon the east, the
Atlantic upon the south, Penobscot bay, river and county
upon the west and north. It is of very irregular shape.
From north to south it measures about eighty-five miles, and
in width varies from six to forty miles.
3. Divisions. — It has one city, thirty-one incorporated
towns, and twenty-nine inland and island townships. There
are hundreds of islands within its civic limits, the largest of
which is the most conspicuous of any upon the Avhole Atlantic
coast.
8 HANCOCK COUNTY.
4. Incorporated. — This, the fourth county, was organized
in 1789, with Penobscot for its shire town. It included
portions of Penobscot and Waldo counties, and extended
northward to the Canada line. No county in Maine has
undergone more changes in territorial limits. In 1791, a
part was set off and re-annexed to Lincoln. In 1816, a
portion was taken to form Penobscot county. In 1827, a
part was taken off for Waldo. In 1831, a change was made
in the partition line between Hancock and Washington. In
1844, another change, and in 1858 Greenfield was set off and
annexed to Penobscot. The west and north lines are still as
awkward as possible, while none but a skilled scientist can
project the zigzag moulding of its coast-line.
5. History. — The early history of Hancock county, as
now formed, is a part of the earliest history of the State, and
forms an unbroken historical chain, extending back hundreds
of years before " Columbus crossed the ocean blue." Pre-
sumptive, — if not conclusive — evidence is to be found at
Mt. Desert, that the Northmen who peopled Greenland, also
visited this part of our coast, caught fish in its waters, and
cured them upon its shores. Although the coast was fre-
quently seen, and landings made by European voyagers for
some six hundred years, nothing came of it until the explora-
tions of Pring in 1603, and Weymouth and De Monts in
1605. (There is a tradition that Eosier the historian of
Weymouth's expedition, explored Deer Island Thoroughfare,
making a halt at a bold promontory in Brooksville, known as
Cape Rosier.) They found the country inhabited by a nation
of " canoe-men," now known as the Tarratine or Penobscot
Indians. De Monts, who seemed to know of the "nine
points " in possession, claimed the " newly " discovered coun-
try, in the name of the king of France, in true Catholic style,
by setting up a cross and calling the country "Acadia," by
which name it was known for 150 years, or until Gen. Wolfe,
in 1759, waved his banner in triumph over the Plains of
Abraham. The year following De Monts claim, Weymouth
took formal possession of the same country, in the name of
HANCOCK COUNTY. 9
his king, James I. of England. Thus tlic two leading Powers
of Europe became adverse claimants to our soil. France, by
virtue of explorations of Cartier in 1534, and possession of
De Monts in 1602. England, by virtue of discovery of
Cabot, in 1498, and claims of Weymouth in 1603. The
wars which these counter claims occasioned, kept this county
an almost unbroken Avilderness during the provincial history
of Maine.
In point of fact, the county of Hancock was a part of the
French Province of Acadia, for a period of 180 years; and
France did not fully relinquish her claim until after the War
of the Revolution. The first ofiicial efibrt of the Govern-
ment of France to "enter possession," was a patent of Acadia,
granted to De Monts, which, two years after was surrendered
to a Catholic French lady (Madame De Guercheville), who
was desirous of making the experiment of converting the
natives to the Catholic faith. She immediately sent over her
agent (Suassaye), with twenty-five colonists, to take posses-
sion of Acadia. Suassaye and colony landed May 16th, 1613,
at Mt. Desert, built a fort, erected a cross, celebrated mass,
and called the place "St. Sauveur," which is sujDposed to be
the locality now known as Ship Harbor, Tremont. About
the "pool" at Somes' Sound, is supposed to be where the
French missionaries, Biard and Masse, located themselves in
1609. Frenchman's Bay is supposed to have acquired its
name from a peculiar incident which occurred to a French
ecclesiastic who encamped someAvhere between the Union and
Narraguagus rivers, during the winter of 1603. At Trenton
Point is supposed to be where Madam Deville lived.
The first P^nglish possession was a trading post at Pentegoet
(Castine), in 1625-6, which soon fell into the hands of the
French, and the flag of France floated over it during nearly
the whole of the 17th century.
The appearances of the old French settlements have been
found at Castine, Newbury Neck, Surry, Oak Point, Tren-
ton, East Lamoine, Crabtree's Neck, Hancock, Butler Point,
Franklin, Waukeag Neck, Sullivan and upon the "Desert
10
HANCOCK COUNTY.
Isle." Not until after the fiiU of Quebec, in 1759, were any
permanent English settlements made.
6. Land Grants. — The first grants of land, were six
townships each six miles square, between the Penobscot and
Union, then known as the Donaqua River, which were granted
to David Marsh et als, by the (general Court of Massachu-
setts, upon certain conditions, one of which was that they
should settle each township with sixty Protestant families,
within six years. These grants were No. 1, (Bucksport) ;
No. 2, (Orland) ; No. 3, (Penobscot) ; No. 4, (Sedgwick) ;
No. 5, (Bluehill) ; and No. 6, (Surry). Six other townships
east of the Donaqua River, were granted upon the same
terms. But three of these are in this county, which are No.
1, (Trenton), granted to Eben Thorndike et als; No. 2,
(Sullivan), to David Bean et als, and No. 3, (Mt. Desert) to
Gov. Bernard. The whole survey Avas made by Samuel
Livermore, and as six of the townships were on one side of
the river, and six on the other side, the circumstance gave
the present name of "Union River."
The onerous conditions imposed on the grantees, in this
"forest wild," could not be fulfilled, which occasioned a deal
of uneasiness, as a new claimant might oust the occupant.
In 1785, Massachusetts "quieted" the actual settlers in each,
. a hundred-acre lot. The grant of these several townships
was made in 1762. One of the conditions in each grant was,
that the grantee "yield one-fifth part of all the gold and
silver ore and precious stones found therein."
These grantees individually bound themselves in a pena^
bond of £50, conditioned to lay out no one of the townships
more than six miles in extent, on the banks of the Penol)scot,
or on the sea coast ; to build sixty dwelling-houses, at least
18 feet square ; to fit for tillage 300 acres of land, erect a
meeting-house, and settle a minister. There were reserved
in each township one lot for parsonage purposes, another for
the first settled minister, a third for Harvard College, and a
fourth for the use of schools, making 1,200 acres in each
township, reserved for public uses.
HANCOCK COUNTY. H
7. Gregoire's Claim. — About the year 1688, the King of
France gave to one Cadilliac, a grant embracing the whole of
Mt. Desert, which Cadilliac held till 1713, styling himself
"Lord of Donaqua and Mt. Desert." After the War of the
Revolution, one Gregoire claimed the whole island in right of
his wife, Maria T., a grand-daughter of Cadilliac. Gov. Ber-
nard, to whom the island had been granted, had lost his title
by confiscation ; but to his son John, one-half of it had been
restored ; and in consideration of a request made in favor of
Gregoire's claim, by Gen. Lafayette, Massachusetts recog-
nized it as valid, lohich is the only French claim ever sustained
to lands i7i Maine.
To indemnify this heir of Cadilliac for lands included in
her claim, and which tlie Government had disposed of, there
were quitclaimed to her 60,000 acres.
This tract included the present towns of Trenton and
Lamoine, with a part of Sullivan, Ellsworth, Hancock, Eden
and Mt. Desert, w^ith the islands in front of them. Many of
the present settlers hold their lands under old French titles.
Many of the original titles to lands are acquired from Prov-
ince grants and form Indian deeds.
Gregoire with his family settled in Mt. Desert ; there lived
and died, and himself and wife were buried outside of the
burial-ground at Hull's Cove, Eden. Tradition says they
were so buried because they were Catholics. Some of the
Gregoire deeds are in the possession of the writer.
8. Land Lottery. — In 1786, Massachusetts attempted a
lottery sale of fifty townships, between the Penobscot and
Passamaquoddy. The land intended to be sold, w^as repre-
sented by 2,720 tickets, the price of each ticket $2.00.
These "lottery townships," and those who settled upon them,
were to be exempt from taxes for 15 years. Every ticket
was a prize ticket ; the smallest prize being a half-mile square,
and the largest a six mile square. There were five managers,
one of the number being Leonard Jarvis, of Surry. On the
drawing of the lottery, it was found that but 437 tickets were
12 HANCOCK COUNTY.
sold, and only 165,280 acres drawn, and 942,112 acres re-
mained inisold. The average price received for the lands
drawn was about 52 cents per acre. The lots not drawn, and
also the greater part of the prize lots, were purchased by
William Bingham, of Philadelphia, a man of immense wealth.
Mr. Bingham died in England in 1803, and left one son and
two daughters. One of the daughters married Alexan-
der Baring, of London. At one time the Bingham heirs
owned in Maine, outside of the lottery purchase, 2,350,000
acres.
The lottery townships in Hancock, sold to Bingham, -^vere
Nos. 14, 15 and 16, each containing 23,040 acres. The con-
veyance was made January 28th, 1793, by Samuel Phillips,
Leonard Jarvis and John Reed, a Committee appointed by
the General Court of Massachusetts. The "consideration,"
named in the deed, is "a large and valuable sum of money."
Query — Were not the "up-river" townships north of the tier
of townships, sold to Bingham, included in the lottery scheme?
In 1796, Bingham purchased the residue of the Gregoire grant.
A plan of the 60,000 acre grant to Madame De Gregoire, was
made by Nathan Jones and Samuel Thompson, and a survey
of the same, by John Peters, was completed on or before
January 8th, 1789.
August 4, 1792, Barthelemy De Gregoire, after "excepting
out" certain "lots" and "tracts," sold the balance of his grant,
or 23,121 acres, to Henry Jackson, of Boston, for £1,247,
16 shillings. Jackson, July 9th, 1796, sold his claim to
Bingham for $100.
The outlines of the Gregoire grant are thus defined in the
earliest recorded deeds : "A tract of land lying on the main,
on each side of the Donaquec river, in the County of Hancock.
Beginning near the Sweedeland Mill dam, on the Eastern side
of Skillings river, thence due North 550 rods to Taunton bay,
there crossing a cove in said bay 432 rods in the same course,
and running same course from said bay 460 rods, for the N. E.
corner, thence 7 miles and 56 rods to Union river, a due West
course, crossing the river and continumg 2 miles, 172 rods,
HANCOCK COUNTY. 13
thence South 68 East to Union river, crossing the same, and
continuing 176 rods to a stake in Melatiah Jordan's field."
In the conveyance from Gregoire to Jackson, or in that
from Jackson to Bingliam, among the lots "excepted out,"
are 100 acres to Mr. Jennison, 100 to James Hopkins, one-
half of Trenton, and part of No. 8, conveyed to Jean Baptiste
De La Roche ; Gregoire's farm ; a lot at North East Creek,
Mt. Desert, lying between lots of Nicholas Thomas and Eliza
Higgins ; 450 acres intended for the town of Mt. Desert ; a
lot of Col. Jones, a settler on Great Duck Island, and 8,333
acres of No. 7, granted to the Beverly Cotton Manufactory.
The islands "lying in front," granted to Barthelomy De
Gregoire, and his wife Maria Theresa De la Motta Cadilace
De Gregoire, and which were a part of the Bingham purchase,
are Bartlett's island, containing 1,414 acres ; Great Cranberry
island, 490 acres ; Little Cranberry, 73 acres ; Sutton's, 74
acres ; Bear, 9 acres ; Thomas, 64 acres ; Green, 44 acres ;
Great Duck, 182 acres ; Little Duck, 59 acres ; also, two
small islands of 6 acres each. Col. John Black, an English-
man by birth, who resided at Ellsworth for many years, was
the Bingham heirs' agent. Messrs. Hale and Emery now hold
that trust. The Bingham lands presented an inviting field for
"smugglers," and the value of timber pilfered therefrom is
immense.
Sketches of Town History.
9 . In the year 1787, Penobscot, the first town in the county,
and the 49th in the State, was incorporated. The Act of In-
corporation was entitled "An Act for Incorporating a certain
plantation in the county of Lincoln, called Majorbigwaduce,
or Number Three, into a town by the name of Penobscot;"
the Bill of Enactment was signed " Artemas Ward, Speaker."
The several town histories must be condensed within a few
lines. We shall attempt to narrate only a few prominent
events. In this matter of town history, I would that each town
in our county emulate the example of Castine, and that too ere
" The times that are gone by
Are a sealed book."
14 HANCOCK COUNTY.
10. Penobscot. — Incorporated (49th town) February 23,
1787. Population, 1,418. Decennary loss, 138. Wealth,
per capita, $148. State valuation, $227,356; United States
valuation, $318,298. Its appellation of Penobscot, is from the
Indian "Penobskeag," or "Penopeauke," signifying "rocky
place." It was a part of the district of ancient "Pentagoet."
In the Act of Incorporation it is called "Majorbigwaduce."
It was Township "Number Three," in the grant to David
Marsh et als. It is situated at the head of Northern Bay, one
of the "great-coves" of the Bagaduce river (Baggadoose), or
written in Indian (Masi-anbaga-8-atoes-ch). The river is an
arm of the Penobscot, the "great river of Nerumbega." At
first, Penobscot included all of Castine, and the westerly part
of Brooksville. The first survey of the town was made by
John Peters. The following names appear among its earliest
municipal otficers : John Lee, Jeremiah and Daniel Wardwell,
John and Joseph Perkins, JohnWasson, David Hawses, Elijah
Littlefield, Isaac Parker, and Peltiah Leach.
The subjoined historic data are from the pen of H. B. Ward-
well : "The first settlers within the present limits of Penob-
scot, were Duncan and Findley Malcom, Daniel and Neil
Brown. They were Scotchmen, and being loyalists or tories,
left for St. Andrews when the English evacuated Majebigy-
uduc, in 1761. Findley Malcom and Daniel Brown married
daughters of my great-grandfather, Daniel Wardwell. The
first permanent settler was Charles Hutchings, in 1765. The
first child of English parents was Mary Hutchings. In 1765
came Isaac, Jacob Sparks and Daniel Perkins, Samuel Averill
and Solomon Littlefield.
The first settler in Penobscot, as originally incorporated,
was Eeuben Gray, in 1760. To him a daughter (]\Iary) was
born, Nov. 4, 1763, and a son (Samuel) May 8, 1767. In
1765, Gray sold out to Aaron Banks, and took up the farm
now occupied by Levi Gray, in Sedgwick."
Union soldiers, 158 ; State aid, $3,172 ; town bounty,
;,782 ; cost per recruit, $170.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 15
11. 8edgio{ck. — Incorporated (2-59, that is, the 2d in the
county and the oOth in the State), January 12, 1789. Popu-
lation, 1,113. Decennary loss, 150. AV^ealth, per capita, $180.
State valuation, $197,706. United States valuation, $285, G9G.
Named in honor of INIaj. Robert Sedgwick. Plantation name
''Naskeag." By the earlier adventurers it was called "Nasket."
In a "census of the people ni this region," in 1688, tw^o French
families, of eight souls, were found at Naskeag Point. The
first permanent settler was Andrew Black, in 1759. Four
years after, came Goodwin Reed, John and Daniel Black, and
two years later Reuben Gray "moved in" from Penobscot.
The first white child, Elizabeth (who lived to a great age) ,
was born in 1759. First minister, Daniel Merrill. The de-
scendants of Reuben Gray are exceedingly numerous. They
preserve i\\e,\Y prolijicness, and other family traits, unimpaired
down to the latest generation. In 1817, 5,000 acres were cut
oif and annexed to Brooksville. In 1849, about 8,800 acres
were taken ofi* to form the town of Brooklin. Benjamin, its
only river, is little else than a spui- of Eggmoggin Reach.
Its first post otfice was established in 1812. Now, it boasts of
a telegraph station. Union soldiers, 120; State aid, $1,464;
town bounty, $8,712 ; cost per recruit, $85.
Prof. Burns, Superintendent of the Burns mine, Ames-
buiy, has taken charge of the Eggmoggin mine, Sedgwick,
Me. It has a capital of $200,000, and reduction works have
recently been erected at a cost of $40,000. There are 500
tons of ore at the Philadelphia mint w^hich will average $100
a ton.
12. ^??«e7n7?.— Incorporated (3-62 town) Jan. 30, 1789.
Population, 1707. Decennary loss, 196. Wealth, per capita,
$225. State valuation, $397,620. U. S. valuation, $572,-
572. First settled near "Fire Falls," April 7, 1762, by
Joseph Wood and John Roundy. Next settlers, Nicholas
Holt, Ezekiel Osgood and Nehemiah Hinckley. First child,
Jonathan Darling, born in 1765 ; second child, Edith Wood,
in 1766. The township first known as No. 5. The planta-
tion name was "Newport." The town takes its name from a
16 HANCOCK COUNTY.
majestic hill, which rises to an altitude of 950 feet above
high-water mark. Congregational Church formed in 1772 ;
Baptist, in 1806. First post office in 1795. Jonathan
Fisher, settled minister from 1796 to 1837. Eccentric "Par-
son" Fisher, 'tho' dead, his good name liveth. Academy
incorporated in 1803, and endowed by a grant or half of No.
23, Washington county. This grant was sold in 1806, for
$6,252. Of this sum, $1,188 have been lost. Has a social
library of some 500 volumes. In 1769, the settlers voted
to raise money " for to hire a person for to preach the gospel
to us, and for to pay his board."
Union soldiers in the war of the Rebellion, 196 ; State aid,
$3,038 ; town bounty, $17,995 ; cost per recruit, $102.
13. Deer Isle. — Incorporated (4-63 town) January 30,
1789. Population, 3,404. Decennary loss, 178. Wealth,
per capita, $120. State valuation, $417,211. U. S. valua-
tion, $680,783. First visited by European voyagers, in
1605. The abundance of deer in its forests, gave it its name.
First settlement commenced near what is now known as the
"Scott Farm," by William Eaton, in 1762. First church in
1773. First preacher. Rev. Mr. Noble. First pastor, Rev.
Peter Powers. Rev. Joseph Brown, a dissenter, installed in
1809. Population in 1790, 682. First white child, Timothy
Billings, born May, 1764. The privations of the settlers
chiring the War of the Revolution, were terrible.
Union soldiers, 314; State aid, $6,294; town bounty,
$59,128 ; cost per recruit, $208.
14. Trenton. — Incorporated (5-65 town) Feb. 16, 1789.
Population, 678. Wealth, per capita, $175. Derived its
name from Trenton, N. J. First settlements by English set-
tlers, about 1763. Anterior to this, French settlements were
commenced at Trenton and Oak Points. This town was first
granted by Plymouth Colony, in 1752, to Eben Thorndike
et als. Massachusetts confirmed it to Paul Thorndike in 1785.
Thompson's and Alley's islands are within its limit. In 1870
it was divided into two towns, and the eastern half incorpo-
rated as Lamoine.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 17
State valuation, $260,729. U. S. valuation, $37544!9i
Union soldiers, 149 ; State aid, $2,361 ; town houwty,
$29,600; cost per recruit, $207.
15. Goiddshorough, — Incorporated (6-66 town) February
16,1789. Population, 1709. Decennary loss, 8. State val-
uation, $224,690. U. S. valuation, $323,560. Received its
corporate name in honor of Robert Gould, one of the original
proprietors — Borough, from the Anglo Saxon burgh, a town ;
in En*yland, a town that sends members to Parliament.
There were squatters here as early as 1700. The first set-
tlers were from Saco and vicinity, and were Libby, Fernald,
Ash and Willy. The first male child was Robert Ash, and
the first female, Mary Libby. The first post office in 1792.
An old inhabitant says: "Nathan Jones and Thomas Hill
settled here in 1764." Maj. Gen. David Cobb of Revolu-
tionary fame, one of Washington's Aids, and afterwards Judge
of the Common Pleas Court of Hancock County, resided here
mau}^ years. This town, embraces Stave, Jordan's, Iron-
bound, Porcupines, Horns, Turtle, and Schoodic Islands.
That part of No. 7, known as "West Bay Stream," was
annexed February 26, 1870. It is the most easterly town in
the county, and has the most extensive sea-coast. On Ash's
Point are the relics of an old French fortification. At Grind-
stone Point is an immense deposit of raetaphoric or silicious
slate, excellent material for grindstones. Its hidden mineral
wealth must be developed by some geological scientist, not
afraid of " sur/-ru7i7iing ."
Union soldiers, 167 ; State aid, $2,584 ; town bounty,
$27,460 ; cost per recruit, $179.
16. Sullivan. — ^Incorporated (7-67 town) February 16,
1789. Area, 17,500 acres. Population, 796. Wealth, per
capita, $195. Named in honor of Capt. Daniel Sullivan.
Indian name, " Waukeag" (a seal), and also called, previous
to incorporation, "New Bristol." First settlement com-
menced in 1762, by Sullivan, Simpson, Bean, Gordon, Bhiis-
dell and Card. Embraces eight islands, viz : Capital A,
Bean's, Dram, Preble's, Bragdon, Burnt, Black, and Seward.
2
13 HANCOCK COUNTY.
In the Revolution, forty families here were reduced to twenty.
This township was granted to David Bean ; the king refused
to confirm it, and the settlers were quieted in 1803, by
Massachusetts, in 100 acres, on payment of $5.00 each. At
Waukeag are evidences of an old French settlement. At the
commencement of the Revolutionary War, nearly two-thirds
of the settlers moved back to York. Nine thousand acres in
this town were donated to Bowdoin College. In 1841, an
earthern pot, containing somewhat more than $400, Avas dug
up. They were French coins, bearing date of 1725. In
1875, human bones were dug up, supposed to be French or
Indian.
Union soldiers, 80; State aid, $2,210; town bounty,
$14,459 ; cost per recruit, $208. Decennary loss, 76 ; State
valuation, $14(3,954; U. S. valuation, $204,414.
17. Mt. Desert. — Incorporated (8-68 town) February 17,
1789. Population, 918. Decennary gain, 1. Wealth, per
capita, $175. State valuation, $158,069. U. S. valuation,
$228,619. Its corporate name is supposed to be from " De
Monts Desert Isle." It has gained currency that the island
was known to the Northmen as early as 1008. First occu-
paucy by French in 1604. Peter Biard and Enemond ]\Iasse
were here in 1609. Madame De Guerchville's colony came
in 1613. In 1688, an Euglish settler named Hinds, wife and
four children, lived here. The first permanent settlement
was by Abraham Somes and James Richardson, in 1761.
The first child, George Richardson, was born in August,
1793. The first marriage, August 9, 1774. Became a plan-
tation in 1776. This sea-cradled island is distinguished as
the place where the first Jesuit Mission in America was
established. Its topography is a natural curiosity. Contrary
to the ordinary IcA'^el formation of islands, it is thrown up
into huge granite mountains to the number of thirteen. The
altitude of Green Mountain is 1,762 feet; of Sargent's Mt.,
1,098 feet; Brown's, 880 feet; Mt. Robinson, 680 feet;
Dog, 680 feet; and Carter's 660 feet. In 1838, Bartlett's,
Hardwood and Robinson's islands, were set off" and incorpb-
HANCOCK COUNTY. 19
rated into " Seaville." Christopher Bartlett first settled on
Bartlett's Island about 1770. The Act incorporating Sea-
ville, was repealed February 24, 1859. Hartlett's Island
was annexed to Mt. Desert. The town has been twice
divided, Eden taking off 22,000 acres, and Tremont half of
what remained.
Union soldiers, 161; State aid, $1,455; town bounty,
$14,722; cost of recruit, $160.
18. Buchsport. — Incorporated (9-79 town) June 27,
1792. Population, 3,433. Decennary loss, 121. Wealth,
per capita, $360. State valuation, $1,219,881. U. S. val-
uation, $1,756,628. This was township No. 1, in the grant
to Marsh. It was incorporated as Buckstown, and was not
changed to Bucksport till 1817. The township was surveyed
by William Chamberlain, in 1762. Col. Jonathan Buck,
from Haverhill, Mass., commenced the first settlement in
1764. For him the town was named. The next year Laugh-
lin McDonald and his son Roderick, took up lots. In 1766-7,
Asahel Harriman, Jonathan Frye, Benjamin Page, Phineas
Ames, and Ebenezer Buck came. The first preacher was
Rev. John Kenney, in 1795. First settled minister. Rev.
Mighill Blood, in 1803. In 17 — the British burnt a part of
the town. The post office established in 1799. Al)out 1804
the Gazette of Maine was printed. In 1806, "Penobscot
Bank" was established, and continued six years. The ill-
treatment which the inhabitants received from the British in
1776-7-8, drove many families away, and they employed
Indian guides to pilot them through the woods to Kennebec.
Some of them returned in 1784.
Union soldiers, 419; State aid, $7,345; town bounty,
$56,618 ; cost per recruit, $150.
19. Castine. — Incorporated (10-105 town) February 10,
1796. Popuhition, 1,303. Decennary gain, 53. Wealth,
per capita, $335. State valuation, $461,343. U. S. valua-
tion, $664,333. The History of this " old town," has been
prepared and published by G. A. Wheeler, M. D. It is an
int( resting and trustworthy compilation. The town appro-
20 HANCOCK COUNTY.
priated $350 therefor. Castine perpetuates the name of Baron
de St. Castin, a French nobleman, who estabhshed a residence
here in 1667. It has a traditionary history running back to
1555. Under the name of "Pentagoet," it became known to
the English settlers of New England, about 1626. It has
never been without a garrison from 1630 to 1783. It has
been successively possessed by the Indians, French, Dutch
and English. Five naval engagements have taken place on
the bosom of its harbor. One of those engagements, called
the "Penobscot expedition," is said to be the most disastrous
issue our arms have ever experienced. The first permanent
English settlements made within the present limits of Castine,
were in 1760, by Aaron Banks, William Stover, and Reuben
Gray. "Old Kit," who died in Brooksville, at the advanced
age of 104 years, was born upon the Dea. Hatch farm. The
first child, William Stover, was born upon the farm where
E. H. Buker lives, in November, 1764. In 1797, one
Mariam Freethy, a shiftless person, was warned to leave the
place — they had "tramps" in those days. The first corporate
town meeting was held at the house of Jacob Orcut, at
Orcut's Harbor. During the decennial period, ending 1850,
its per capita wealth, with one exception (New Haven),
exceeded that of any other tovrn in the United States. For
many years it was the Fishing Emporium of Maine. The
repeal of the Fishing Bounty Act, and losses by rebel cruisers,
have almost completed its commercial ruin. Its loss of tax-
able estates, from 1860 to 1870, was nearly 40 per cent. It
was the shire town from 1796 to 1838.
Union soldiers, 157 ; State aid, $7,627 ; town bounty,
$15,834 ; cost per recruit, $149.
20. Eden. — Incorporated (11-107 town) February 23,
1796. Population, 1,195. Decennary loss, 52. Wealth,
per capita, $175. State valuation, $196,499. U. S. valua-
tion, $282,955. Regarding its appellation (Eden), the pre-
sumption is in favor of its being so named for Richard Eden,
an early English author. There is a tradition that its natural
beauties suggested its name. It is "impossible to disen-
HANCOCK COUNTY. 21
tangle " the ancient history of that portion of the " Coaste
Hills," now comprised in the present town. Its early history
and that of Mt. Desert, are inseparable. At Hull's Cove,
Gregoire and his wife lived, died, and were buried. They
died in 1610, and were buried outside of the grave-yard,
without i3riest, book, or cross. Tradition runneth, that being
Catholics, Protestant prejudice would not allow them a final
resting place inside. The first English settlement was in
1763, by two families named Thomas and Higgins. We
excerpt the following from the first marriage record : " This
is to certify that, inasmuch as there is no Lawful Authority
within 30 miles of this place, whereby we can be married as
the Law directs, We do promise in the presence of God and
the anofels * * * * to cleave to each other so long as
God shall continue both our lives." It proved a happy and
fruitful union.
Union soldiers, 103; State aid, $2,356 ; town bounty,
$17,351 : cost per recruit, $191.
21. Or?an(Z.— Incorporated (12-124 town) February 12,
1800. Population, 1,701. Decennary loss, 86. Wealth,
per capita, $280. State valuation, $374,390. U. S. valua-
tion, $539,121. Anciently called " Alamasook," next "East-
ern River." It was No. 2 in the grant to David Marsh. Its
name is supposed to be derived from " Oar-land " — an oar
having been found upon its shores by the first settler, who
was Joseph Gross, in 1764. Ebenezer Gross came in 1765,
and Joseph Viles in 1766. Viles built the first framed house.
Zachariah Gross, the first child, was born 1766. The first
road was laid out in 1771. The first mills were built by
Calvin Turner, in 1773. In 1790 it had 290 souls. In 1775,
the men of this plantation and those of No. 1, formed them-
selves into a military company, and also chose a Committee
of Safety.
Union soldiers, 195; State aid, $5,786; town bounty,
$14,855 ; cost per recruit, $164.
22. Ellsworth. — Once called " New Bowdoin," comprising
No. 7, a part of No. 6, and the northwest part of Trenton,
22 HANCOCK COUNTY,
was incorporated February 26, 1800. Population, 5,257.
Decennary gain, 599. Wealth, per capita, $235. State val-
uation, $1,233,199. U. S. valuation, $1,775,813. Benjamin
Milliken is said to be the first settler, and that he settled
here in 1763. Says the "oldest inhabitant," " the first meal
cooked in Ellsworth by a white woman, was by a daughter
of Milliken's, the cooking being done by the side of a huge
boulder, which stood where Dutton's store now is." The
next settlements were by Meltiah Jordan, Benjamin Joy,
Colonel eJones, George Lord, Nathaniel and John Jellison.
Others soon came and made their "clearings." In twenty
years it had a population of 992. First minister. Rev. J.
Urquhart, in 1785. Rev. Peter Nourse, ordained in 1812.
Became the shire town in 1838, and a city in 1809. All of
the buildings now standing south of Main street, have been
built within sixty years. The first framed house is in the
rear of Clark & Davis' store. According to "ye olden
custom," which was, that at a "raising" some citizen bold,
bestride the ridge-pole, name the building, and break a bottle
of rum, which in this instance was as follows :
"This is a good frame,
It deserves a good name,
What shall we call it?
Josh Moore's folly,
And Pond's delight.
The lawyer has got it,
It looks like a fright."
The first children born were Edward and Susan Beal.
Ellsworth has more than eight times the territorial area of
Castine. It has a gross water power of 6,600 horse, or
240,000 spindles, the equivalent in working energy of 2,240
population. It was named in memory of Oliver Ellsworth,
one of the delegates to the National Constitutional Con-
vention.
Union soldiers, 653 ; State aid, $22,946 ; town bounty,
$49,600 ; cost per recruit, $111.
33. Surry. — Incorporated (14-147 town) June 21, 1803.
Population, 1,242. Decennary loss, 77. Wealth, per capita,
HANCOCK COUNTY. 23
$172. State valuation, $209,137. U. S. valuation, $271,157.
Named by the Jarvis proprietors, for Surrey, England. This
was Township No. 6, in the grant to Marsh. First occupied
by French at Newbury Neck. The first English settlers
were Symonds, Weymouth, and James Flye. Symonds
"squat" upon the farm now owned by Samuel Wasson, and
Weymouth upon the Point which bears his name, a pai't of
the old Joy farm, now in possession of G. W. Hutchings.
The next settlers were John Patten, Hopkinson, and Andrew
Flood, Wilbrahara Swett, Matthey Ray, Samuel Joy, Isaac
Lord, Hezekiah Coggins, and Leonard Jarvis. Mr. Jarvis
was a Representative in Congress from 1831 to 1837. While
in Congress, he proposed to vindicate his honor, by fighting
a duel with F. O. J. Smith.
Up to the year 1820, about 13,000 acres had been alienated,
and were held under grants to settlers and "quiet possession"
titles. The quantity of land remaining, was purchased by the
Jarvis'. In 1840, "the Jarvis farm" was the best cultivated
and the most productive farm in the county. Dry rot is its
only product now. In 1800, Surry included that poi-tion of
Ellsworth known as ward 5. In 1829, it was re-annexed to
Ellsworth. In this matter, the agent for Surry has been
charged with consummate perfidy. In 1790, it had a popula-
tion of 239. In 1874, a small quantity of silver coin was
found at Weymouth Point.
Union soldiers, 135 ; State aid, $2,912 ; town bounty,
$22,948 ; cost per recruit, $191.
24. Broohsville. — Incorporated (5-222 town) June 13,
1817. Population, 1,275. Decennary loss, 152. Wealth,
per capita, $190. State valuation, $198,998. U. S. valua-
tion, $286,557. Named in honor of Governor Brooks. It
took from Sedgwick an eighth, ajid from Castine and Penob-
scot each a fifth of their taxal)le property. It was a part of
ancient Pentagoet. Its early history is almost entirely em-
bodied in that of Castine and Penobscot. The first explora-
tion was by James Rozier in 1605. First settled in 1777, by
John Wasson, Samuel Wasson and David Hawes, Revolution-
24 HANCOCK COUNTY.
ary soldiers. They found three squatters here, a Mr. Roax,
Eben Leland and Arch Haney. About 1780, William Roax
and Elisha Blake settled upon the "Cape." The first white
child born within the present town limits was Mary Grindle,
May, 17()5. She was born upon the farm now owned by G.
M. Farnham. Upon Henry's Point, and near Oliver Bake-
man's, the British erected 6-gun batteries, in 1779. The
''tooth of time" has nearly obliterated both. The first cor-
porate town meetmg was held in John Bray's house.
Union soldiers, 130; State aid, $3,621; town bounty,
$22,086 ; cost per recruit, $195.
25. Franklin. — Incorporated (16 town) January 24, 1825.
Population, 1,042. Decennary gain, 38. Wealth, per capita,
$165. State valuation, $123,056. U. S. valuation, $177,310.
Originally, Phmtation No. 9. Named in honor of Dr. Frank-
lin. First occupied by the French, at Butler's Point. Moses
Butler and Mr. Wentworth came here in 1764, and are sup-
posed to be the first English settlers. The next settlers were
Joseph Bragdon, Mr. Hardison, Mr. Hooper and A])ram
Domiell. This is one of the eight towns in the county which
shows a gain of population during the last decennial period.
On Butler's Point are apple trees upwards of 100 years old.
Union soldiers, 120; State aid, $5,804; town bounty,
$12,280 ; cost per recruit, $150.
26. Hancock. — Incorporat(?d (17 town) February 21, 1828.
Population, 974. Decennary gain, 49. Wealth, per capita,
$170. State valuation, $163,904. U. S. valuation, $236,621.
Formed from parts of Sullivan, Trenton, and No. 8. The
pioneer settlers were Oliver Wooster, Agreen Crabtree,
Thomas McFarland,\, Thomas Roger, and Joseph Googins.
They came in 1764-5. Philip Hodgkins, Reuben Abbot,
Thomas Moon and Richard Clark, came in 1766-7-8. There
are two mill-streams, which glory in the names of "Egypt,"
and "Kilkenny."
Union soldiers, 115; State aid, $3,054; town bounty,
116,900 ; cost per recruit, $173.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 25
27. Cranberry Isles. — Incorporated (18 town) March 16,
1830. Population, 350. Decennary gain 4. Wealth, per capita,
$255. State valuation, $61,515. U. S. valuation, $87,980.
Named for its extensive cranberry marsh, 200 acres in extent.
Its early history must be chiefly sought in connection with
that of the parent town, Mt. Desert. The first English settler
within the present limits of the town, was John Eoberson,
who, about 1761, settled upon the island which bears his name.
The first settlers upon Cranberry Isle were supposed to be a
Mr. Bunker and William Foss. The first selectmen were
Samuel Hadlock, Enoch Spurling and Joseph Moore.
Union soldiers, 27 ; State aid, $162 ; town bounty, $6,095 ;
cost per recruit, $232.
28. Aurora. — Incorporated February 1, 1831. Area 23,040
acres. Population, 212. Wealth, per capita, $155. Derived
its name from Aurora, goddess of morning. Its first settlers
were four brothers, Samuel, Benjamin, David and Roswell
Silsby, who came here in 1805. For some years they had, as
there were no roads, to carry their grain on their backs, seven
or eight miles to have it ground. This was one of the "lottery"
townships, and was incorporated as Plantation No. 27, in 1822.
The " Whale's Back," one of those formations known as "horse-
backs," is in this town. The "air-line road" passes over it
for a distance of three and one-half miles. Decennary loss, 65.
State valuation, $32,052. U. S. valuation, $56,154.
Union soldiers, 27 ; State aid, $20 ; town bounty, $1,983 ;
cost per recruit, $117.
29. Amherst. — It was set off" from the plantation of Maria-
ville, in 1822, and incorporated on the 5th of February, 1831.
Its name was suggested from Amherst, N. H. It is thought
that men began to come in and fell trees in it as early as 1802
or 1803. Among the first that came, were Mr. Chapman, Mr.
Shuniway, Mr. Whitman, John Barker, John Giles, Thomas
Ilarpworth and Mr. Graves. In 1805 Capt. Goodell Silsby
came in from Charleston, N. H. In 1806 or 1807 his parents
came and took up the lots now known as "The Old Silsby
Place."
26 HANCOCK COUNTY.
The first and only meeting-house was erected in 1844.
Three men, one living in Amherst and two in Aurora, Iniilt
it. The first settlers endured many hardships. Some came
into Ellsworth, in a vessel, and from that point found their
way hither by following a spotted line on the trees. Some
carried their grain twelve miles on their backs to grist mill,
and then home again.
This is the 26th town. Population, 350. Decennary loss,
34. Wealth, per capita, $165. Area 23,040 acres. State
valuation, $57,276. U. S. valuation, $82,477.
Union soldiers, 43; State aid, $522; town bounty, $5,300 ;
cost per man, $142.
30. Waltham. — Incorporated (21 town) January 29, 1833.
Population, 366. Wealth, per capita, $160. Derives its name
from Waltham, Mass. This town was carved out of Maria-
ville. Its first settlers were Samuel Ingalls, Eben Jordan,
Lebbeus and Eben Kingman, who settled here in 1805.
Webb's l)rook, the outlet of Webb's, Scammon's, Abram's
and Molasses ponds, afibrds a very valuable water power,
which, if properl}^ utilized, would build up a thriving village.
Decennary loss, 8. State valuation, $44,092. U. S. valua-
tion, $63,492.
Union soldiers, 37; State aid, $1,094; town bounty,
$6,194 ; cost per recruit, $194.
31. Otis. — First occupanc}^ 1805. Incorporated (22 town)
March 19, 1835. Named in honor of Otis, a proprietor ;
name, prior to incorporation, New Trenton. Population, 245.
Wealth, per capita, $110. First settlers, Isaac Frazier, N. M.
Jellison, James Gilpatrick and Allan Milliken. Decennary
gain, 36. State valuation, $26,407. U. S. valuation, $38,636.
Union soldiers, 35 ; State aid, $470 ; town bounty, $4,975 ;
cost per recruit, $155.
32. Mariaville. — First occupancy, 1802. Inqorporated
(23 town) February 29, 1836. Named in honor of Maria, a
daughter of Bingham. Name prior to incorporation, Tilden.
Population, 369. Wealth, per capita, $180. First settlers,
Mr. Fabrick, Seth Alcott, B. and D. Eppes, James Hapworth
HANCOCK COUNTY. 27
and Elisha Goodwin. For years, all "up river" was known
as Mariaville. It has been reduced to its present unshapely
limits by taking off Aurora, Amherst and Waltham. Decen-
nary loss, 89. State valuation, $65,742. U. S. valuation,
$84,668.
Union soldiers, 43 ; State aid, $914 ; town bounty, $6,710 ;
cost per recruit, $177.
33. Dedliam. — Incorporated (24 town) February 1, 1837.
Population, 458. Decennary loss, 161. Wealth, per capita,
$230. State valuation, $94,338. U. S. valuation, $135,898.
Was a part of No. 8. Named for Dedham, Mass. First set-
tled in 1810, by Nathan Phillips. The "colony" settlement,
for years, was known as "New Boston." The "colonists"
were accused of "putting on airs." It is a "hard road to
travel." Its highways are very expensive, as the Bangor and
EllsAvorth mail stages pass over several miles of its road,
1,304 times a year.
Union soldiers, 56 ; State aid, $1,046 ; town bounty,$3,000 ;
cost per recruit, $72.
34. Easlhrook. — Incorporated (25 town) February 8,
1837. Population, 187. Decennary loss, 34. Wealth, per
capita, $225. State valuation, $30,288. U. S. valuation,
$46,574. Area, 23,040 acres. This was Plantation No. 15.
Derived its name from its east-brook branches of Union river.
The first settlements were made in 1800, by Joseph Parsons,
Robert Dyer, Samuel Bragdon, and John E. Smith. Joseph
Parsons built the first mill, and first framed house. The first
child was Frances Usher Parsons. This is one of the three
square towns.
Union soldiers, 23. State aid, $501. Town bounty,
$4,077. Cost per man, $194.
35. Tremont. — Detached from Mt. Desert and incorpo-
rated (26 town) June 3, 1848, under the name of Mansel,
but in Auijust of the same year its name was chanijed to
Tremont. Population, 1,822. Wealth, per capita, $145.
Derives its name from the Latin of three mountains, viz. :
28 HANCOCK COUNTY.
Western, Defile, and Dog mountains. Tinker's, Moose,
Hardwood, Gott's and Langley's islands are within its limits.
The original titles are chiefly ancient French grants. Gott's
Island, named for Daniel Gott, has ten 'families, and forms
a school district. State valuation, $262,353. U. S. valua-
tion, $377,784. Decennary gain, 54.
Union soldiers, 160. State aid, $2,152. Town bounty,
$30,053. Cost per recruit, $20.
36. Brooklin. — Detached from Sedgwick and incorpo-
rated (27 town) June 9, 1849, under the name of Fort
Watson. One month after, its name Avas changed to Brooklin.
Population, 966. Wealth, per capita, $200. A Mr. Black
was the first permanent settler. His daughter, Elizabeth,
the first child, lived to the age of 102 years. In 1688, there
were two families at Naskeag, Chas. St. Robins, and La
Flour. Naskeag Point is frequently mentioned in ancient
documentary history. Decennary loss, 77. State valuation,
$186,899. U. S. valuation, $269,124.
Union soldiers, 97. State aid $1,287. Town bounty,
$15,520. Cost per recruit, $119.
37. Verona. — Incorporated (28 town) February 11,
1861. Area, 5,600 acres. Population, 352. Wealth, per
capita, $160. First mentioned as the Island of Lett. Pripr
to incorporation was known as Orphan Island and Wetmore
Isle. It was formerly a part of Prospect, and for many
years a part of Bucksport. It originally belonged to the
" Waldo Patent." Fell into the possession of an orphan girl,
hence the name of Orphan island. It was finally purchased
by Wetmore. In 1763, there were three families on this
island, and not a settler above there on the river. Verona
was named for a town in Italy, on the Po river. State val-
uation, $51,075. U. S. valuation, $72,348.
Union soldiers, 19. State aid, $1,621. Town bounty,
$7,309. Cost per recruit, $438.
38. Lamoine. — Set ofl' from Trenton and incorporated
(29 town) February 11, 1870. Area about 11,000 acres.
Population, 612. Wealth, per capita, $2.32. Named for
HANCOCK COUNTY. 29
Lamoine, an early French resident, who at one time owned
a hirge tract of hind west of Skilling-s river. A coh)ny of
French made a transient settlement on Trenton Point, at an
early day. Two of the colonists, Delaittre and Desisles, be-
came permanent residents. Hon. ^y. King says, "the first
settlement at Lamoine, formerly Trenton, was made in Sep-
tember, 1774, at Gillpartric's Point by Gillpartric," which is
corroborated by Capt. Berry, who adds, "Capt. Isaac Gill-
partric, with six sous and two daughters, fromBiddeford, and
a son-in-law, Edward Berry, from Londonderry, N. H., were
the first settlers." Both these gentlemen say, "the French
came subsequent to Gillpatric." If so, from' whence came the
"brass kettle," not an article of Indian make or use? State
valuation, $142,443. U. S. valnation, $204,616.
39. Isle au Haul. — This our "youngest," was incorpo-
rated February "l^, 1874. It includes Isle au Haut (Isle of
Holt), the two Spoon islands, Yorks, Fog, Burnt, Mer-
chant's, Kimball's and all the other islands south of Merchant's
RoAv. The Isle au Haut is one league directly south of Deer
Isle. It contains about 3,000 acres. The highest part of
the territory is in the middle of the island, and exhibits the
appearance of a saddle. When first explored, it was called
"High Island," its shore being bold, with high, steep clilfs.
My informant, G. L. Hosmer, says : " The first settlement
was made on Merchant's Island, in 1772, b}^ Anthony Mer-
chant. Kimball's Island was settled during the Revolution,
by Seth Webb, a noted hunter, and for whom Webb's pond,
in Eastbrook, was named. Great Isle au Haut was settled
in 1792, by Peltiah Bartor.
40. Islandport, February 11, 1857, "Lunt's " Long Island
was incorporated as the town of "Islandport." The Act was
repealed March 27, 1858, and it went back to a plantation.
The support of its paupers inures to Tremont. The first
settlers were, one Barker, William Rich, William Pomroy,
Amos, Jacob and Ezra B. Lunt. The settlers hold their
titles by occupany. It has a population of 177. It is a spot
of some 500 acres, well out "amid old ocean's roar."
30 HANCOCK COUNTY.
41. Plantations. — This word was applied by England to
British colonies in America, but never to any of the domin-
ions in Europe. Since 18G1, unorganized townships, when
they contain not less than 150 inhabitants, have been required
to organize as Plantations.
42. Inland Plantations. — No. 7, population, 69. No. 8,
population 20. No. 10, population 10. No. 21, population
.50. No. 28, population 12. No. 32, population 17. No.
33, population 102.
43. Island Plantations. — Hog Island, population 6.
Long Island, population, 177. Harbor Island, population
13. B^ar Island, population 13. Bradbury Island, popula-
tion 6. Eagle Island, popidation 30. Spruce Head Island,
population 22. Beach Island, population 9. Butter Tshmd,
population 9. Eaton Island, population 1. Marshall's
Island, population 12. Pickering's Island, populali(jn 5.
Pumpkin Island, population 4. Ilackatosh Island, popula-
tion 4. Mt. Desert llock, population 6. Swan Island, pop-
ulation 451. Estates, $27,805.
44. Mt. Desert Rock. — This island rock, with less than a
half acre surface, is isolated in stormy ocean, twenty miles
from the main. Upon it is a Primary Sea Coast Liglit, built
in 1830. The tower of the light is sixty feet high, and the
light is seventy feet above sea level. At sea, under ordinary
states of atmosphere, it can be seen at a distance of twelve
nautical, or nearly fourteen statute miles. The first light
houses within the county limits were Baker's Island and Dill's
Head, and were built in 1828.
Physical Outlines and Features.
45. Mountains. — The county has but one mountain chain,
and but one mountain group. The line of mountains stretch-
ing across the Island of Mt. Desert, is a continuation of the
Schoodic system. Mt. Desert Rock and the Porcupines, are
ocean-mountains of the same system. This range in crossing
the Island of Mt. Desert, is upheaved into thirteen well-
HANCOCK COUNTY. 31
defined mountain peaks. The highest peak of the "Coaste
Hills," is Green Mountain, in Eden.
The only mountain group is in Dedham ; here ten moun-
tains are clustered together. Those ten mountain peaks,
"rocks piled on rocks innnensely high, with yawning gulfs
between," has given to the town the name of "The Switzer-
land of Maine." The other elevations deserving the geograph-
ical name of mountains, are Bluehill mountain, in Bluehill ;
Bull Hill mountain, in Eastbrook ; Bald and Tunk moun-
tains, in No. 10, and Lead mountain, in No. 28. The moun-
tains upon the main, are conical peaks, standing in isolation.
There are nine "Bald" mountains in the State. Lead
mountain is said to have been so named, from the fact of lead
having been found at its base. Query? May this not be the
"lead mine" discovered 50 years ago, by the hunter, Webb?
46. Surface. — The characteristic feature of the topogra-
phy of the county, is its uuevenness, being moderately hilly,
with a greater fresh water area than any other count}'' in the
State. As the mountains stand in a low rank on the scale of
elevation, (in the ninth) so the valleys are not ravine in
character; the grand feature of its surface conformation,
being long swells, or ridge-ranges, variously broken and
diversified with local elevations and depressions, with but
few abrupt acclivities or escarps. The only narrow defiles
of the "gorge" form, are at Morgan's bay, Surry, McHeards,
Bluehill, and near Mason's Mills, Orland. There is a deal
of waste land, known as "Heaths." May- not these be ponds
overgrown and heath-clad with shrubs?
47. Wafer-Sheds. — The county has three drainage-streams ;
the Penobscot river on the west, Lhiion river in the centre,
and Narraguagus river on the cast. These divide the county
into three drainage districts, with two water-sheds. The
termini of the western water-shed are Byard's Point and Hat
Case Pond. The towns lying within the western slope, and
which are drained into the Penobscot basin, are Deer Isle,
Sedgwick, Brooksville, Penobscot, Castine, Orland, Verona,
Bucksport, and a part of Dedham.
516,250
square
acres
252,440
'
"
113,510
i
u
_
60
pel
cent
-
26
Cl
-
14
"
32 HANCOCK COUNTY.
The termini of the eastern water-shed are Schoodic Point
and Nickatou Lake, The territory drained by the Narragua-
gus, are portions of Gouldsborough. Sullivan and Franklin.
The towns tributary to the Union river basin, are Tremont,
Mt. Desert, Eden, Laraoine, Trenton, Hancock, AValtham,
Eastbrook, Aurora, Amherst, Otis, Mariaville, Ellsworth,
Surry, Bluehill, Brooklin, and parts of Franklin, Dedham,
Orland and Sullivan.
The area tributary to each drainage basin, as computed
from Walling's surveys, is :
Union river -----
Penobscot river - -
Narraguagns river - - -
The relative position of each, is :
Drainage area of Union river
Drainage area of Penobscot river
Drainage area of Xarragnagus river
The mean rate of descent of Union river is about four feet
to the mile.
About one-third of the territory actually tributar}^ to the
Union river basin, is below the "mouth of the river." The
valley of this river basin is underlaid with mica schist.
48. Coast Line. — This is a maritime county. Its seaboard,
including the incurvation of the larger bays, is of greater ex-
tent tban that of any other county in the State. Its general
outline is that of a great hemi-cycle, or disarranged curve
line, extending from Marsh Bay, Bucksport, to Joy's Bay^
Gouldsborough, and is thicker set with iirst-class baj^s, har-
bors and islands than any other seaboard of equal length on
the American coast.
The "meyne," as the Indians called the main land, to dis-
tinguish it from its cordon of islands, may have suggested
the name of the State. The islands by which the coast line is
studded are of every size, from a "thumb-cap" to 130 square
miles ; while Mt. Desert Rock stands on "picket" twenty miles
"broad-oti"," in perpetually undulating ocean, where it has
roughed it for ages.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 33
There are some 300 islands within the county's sea])oard
limits, 270 of which are represented on the county map. Six
towns are islands, six are peninsulas, and twenty-two arc salt-
water washed.
49. Light Houses. — The following are the names of the
light stations, with their numbers :
1^0. 10, Prospect Harbor ----- 5th order.
11, Winter Harbor 5th -
12, Mount Desert - 3d '■'■
13, Egg Rock 4th ''
14, Baker's Island - 4th ''
15, Bear Island ------ 5th "
16, Bass Harbor Head ----- 5th ''-
17, Burnt Coat Harbor - - - - 5th *^
IS. ti 'I - - - - - 4th *'
19. Eggemogghi ----- 5th '^'
20, Saddleback Ledge ----- 5th '■''
22, Deer Isle Thoroughfare - - - 4th "•
23, Eagle Island Point 4th "■
24, Pumpkin Island - - - - 5th "
33, Dice's Head ------ 4th ''
Number of lighthouses within the county limits, fifteen.
Winter Ha7^hors. Bucksport and Castine harbors are rarely
frozen over. This event occurred in 1715, 1850, and during
the hyperborean winter of 1875.
50. Geology. — Geologically, the rock formation underly-
ing the county is granite, sienite and gneiss. This formation
comes to the surface, and starting from Deer Isle, curves
through Bluehill, Sedgwick, Brooksville, Orland, North Ells-
worth, No. 8, Franklin, Sullivan, ending at Mt. Desert. This
immense belt of granite is composed largely of white feld-
spar, is free from impurities, and makes a handsome stone
when dressed. In Eden, there is a deposit of red granite.
Most of the granite in Bucksport, Orland, Dedham, AValtham,
Eastbrook, and those huge boulders at Ellsworth Falls, is a
porphyritic (hard) variety, with black mica. Within the
horse-shoe shaped circle of granite, which curves from Deer
Isle to iNIt. Desert, the rock is mostly mica schist, or a mima-
ceous state. The most abundant variety of mica schist, is
that which consists of alternate layers of mica and quartz.
3
34 HANCOCK COUNTY.
It indicates the presence of gold rather than coal. The rock
formation in Hancock, Lamoine, Trenton, South Ellsworth,
Surry and Penobscot, are considered by geologists, as belong-
ing to one formation, and as formed during the same geologi-
cal period.
At Buck's Harbor in Brooksville, Green's Landinsr in Deer
Isle, McHeard's in Bluehill, Somes' Sound in Mt. Desert,
Sullivan and Franklin, the granite crops in massive form.
At Castine, Penobscot, Ellsworth and Surry, are vast deposits
of plastic clay. That there are precious stones and valuable
mineral deposits awaiting only scientific exploration to de-
velop, is legibly written on its strata.
51. Drift. — The whole surface of the county is termed
by geologists as "glaciated surface," the soil of which is
predicated upon a single geological formation, called " drift."
The conrse of this drift, as shown by the striae, or scratches
upon the ledges, has a variation of from N. 5° W. to N. 15°
E. At Ellsworth its general direction is N. 15° W., while
at Hancock it is N. 15° E. The mountains in Dedham, no
doubt, are the parent-homes of those large boulders on the
stage road above Ellsworth Falls village. FrOm what " centre
of dispersion" all the other rock have come, which are
deposited all over the county in such wild and profuse con-
fusion, some Agassiz must tell. The history of Glacial Phe-
nomena in Hancock, is one of special interest.
52. Granite. — Immense ranges of it traverse the county,
and it is immense in amount. It is quarried at Mt. Desert,
Sullivan, Bluehill, Deer Isle, Franklin and Brooksville, and
being near the sea-shore, are conveniently accessible. They
are easily wrought, and the working and exportation of them
have become a business of great importance. Red granite
has been found at Eden and at Tremont, and is attracting the
attention of capitalists.
53. Marble. — Verd Antique (ancient green) Marble
occurs at Deer Isle. It is sometimes called " serpentine "
from its mottled appearance, somewhat resembling the skin
of a snake. It is susceptible of a high polish. If it will
HANCOCK COUNTY. 35
qnnrrv without "fault," it is of rare value. Statuary marble,
milk white, is reported at Eden and at Mt. Desert.
54. Minerals and Ores. BroohsvilJe. — Iron Pyrites,
known as fool's gold. Copperas, sulphur, alum, and carbon-
ate of soda can l)e manufactured fi'om it.
Bluehill. — Fluor spar used in chemistry. Yalena, or ore
of lead. Wolfram, the ore of tin. Hydrate of Silica, suita-
ble for fire-proof brick. An enormous bed of Manganese,
Limestone, Phosphate of Lime, of which suj)erphosphate is
made.
Bucksport. — Limestone, clay slate of w^hich school slates
are made. Quartz used in the manu Picture of glass.
Castiiie. — Quartz, argillaceous slate, plastic clay, first
quality for brick-making.
Deer Isle. Asbestos (unchanged by fire), incombustible
paper, gloves for handling heated metals, and fire-proof safes
are manufactured from it. The ancients made a cloth of it,
in which dead bodies were wrapped before the burning, and
thus saved the ashes. It w^as used for lamp Avicks. Novacu-
lite, oil stones and hones are made of it. Limestone.
The county having been favored with little more than a
revenue cutter geological exploration, comparatively nothing
is known of the minerals and metallic ores, that are of value
in the arts. The only lime rock discovered which is not too
metaphoric to be of value, is at Little Deer Isle. Red sienite
has recently been found at Tremont, which may be wrought
into elegant articles of ornament, and it w^ill take a fine and
durable polish. A deposit of granular quartz occurs in Surry.
Veins of zinc and copper occur in No. 7, and in Gouldsboro'.
Bog iron occurs in almost every town. Gold has been found
in Bucksport, Orland and Surry ; mining must determine the
abundance. The structure of our rocks does not indicate the
presence of coal, yet there are recent geological observations
which imply that anthracite coal w-ill be found.
■55. Mineral Springs. — Those known to the wn-iter, are at
Bucksport, Brooksville, Bluehill and Mt. Desert. The waters
36 HANCOCK COUNTY.
of each are chalybeate, and are strongly charged with iron.
They deposit an ore resembling yellow ochre, from which red
paint may be readily made. These waters are said to possess
medical efficacy in the treatment of chronic and inflammatory
ailments.
56. Salt. — For the manufacture of sea- water salt, we have
superior facilities. Sea water contains 3 per cent, of pure salt.
With the many "land-locked" salt water storage basins, having
a mean of thirteen feet of tidal rise and fall, and being acces-
sible to market by the cheapest form of transportation, the
making of salt, especially to supply the demand for it as a
fertilizer, is no small item of our mineral resources.
57. Sea- Weed. — The marine plants, eel-grass, rock- weed
and kelp, grow in abundance along our shores. As a manure
they are applied in various ways. Sea-weed dried and pressed
into bales, may hereafter become a portable article of com-
mercial importance. The constituents of sea-weed are lime,
9. GO; magnesia, 6.65; potash, 20; soda, 4.58; salt, 24.33;
sulphuric acid, 21.97; and carbonic acid, 6.39. From the
ashes iodine is obtained, which is employed medicinally.
58. Ice. — For a supply of export ice, we have a fresh water
pond surface of more than 50,000 square acres ; enough to
cool the torrid markets of the world. At no distant day, the
cutting of ice will become a source of material wealth. Active
operations have been made at Mt. Desert, Lamoine, Goulds-
borough and Bucksport. With the present margin of profit,
and the close competition, the ice field must not be remote
from the place of shipment.
Maritime.
Under this heading, those industries are stimulated by the
sea which washes our shores, and the rivers that Avater its
interior.
From the earliest settlements of the county, the character
of its inhabitants has been, in a great proportion, that of a
maritime, lumbering and fishing people. Its numerous bays
and harbors, its abundant material for vessel building, its area
HANCOCK COUNTY. 37
of timber lands, with almost limitless quantities of lumber,
and the immense number of fishes which frequented the coast,
were exciting, and inciting temptations to engage in these
several pursuits, and to give to the county a "stern-chase"
agriculture.
As "crows the old cock, so crows the young." Our young
men, taking cue from the fathers, keep afresh the "old love"
for the logging swamp and ocean wave, preferring the activity
of the one and the excitement of the other, to the more quiet
scenes of the farm.
58. Coasticise Trade. — The complex nature of this in-
dustry, renders it impossible to ascertain with any degree of
precision its real status.
The custom-house will exhibit the amount of the foreign
imports and exports ; but this will be far from aflording an
adequate idea of the actual foreign trade. Many cargoes
entered in our ports are shipped coastwise, and reshipped for
their final markets. Most of the sugar-box shooks manu-
factured here are shipped to Portland, and reshipped to their
final destination. So foreign articles, consumed here, as sugar,
tea, coftee, etc., are taken from subdivided cargoes in coast-
wise ports. So with the coaster traffic, as wood, staves, and
hoop-poles, for Rockland, long lumber and short, bark and
bricks, for domestic ports. The amount of capital invested
in the manufacture of lumber in Hancock County reaches the
sum of $700,000. As a tolerable index to the commercial
importance of the county, and to the tonnage employed in its
foreign coasting and fishing trade, herewith are given its
commercial ports.
59. Custom Districts. There are two custom districts, two
ports of entry, six deputy districts, eight ports of delivery,
twenty-six hailing ports, and thirteen United States custom
house officials.
60. The Forests. — Originally, pine, spruce, hemlock, birch,
beech, maple, ash, cedar, red oak, and hackmatack, were
abundant. But the waster of "God's first temples" came, and
before the insatiable chopper's axe the primeval forests have
38 HANCOCK COUNTY.
disappeared, until, excepting the upper branches of Union
river, scarcely a representative tree is left, and our once well
timbered county, in its old growth is almost treeless ; while
the demands for stave timber, box stuff, vessel wedges, and fuel
for lime kilns, are rapidly divesting it of its second growth.
AVhile lumbering is classified as an industry, it is one which
creates not a distributive but a centralized wealth, in which
but one in thirty share, while the twenty-nine are pursued by
hard times, like "Acta3n by his own hounds." It engenders
a upas atmosphere, in which agriculture does not thrive.
61. The Fisheries. — One of the most valuable industries,
stripped of the peculiar nomenclature of ichthyology, are
treated as fisheries of the deep-sea, harl)or, and interior.
No person can sail along our coast, or explore our bays and
harbors, or travel over our territory and examine the numer-
ous rivers and ponds, without being struck with the uncom-
mon chances for marine and other fisheries.
The chain of fishing l^anks led the European to our coasts
in search of the last refuge and hiding place of the every-
where hunted codfish. Fish caught in the waters of Maine,
saved the Plymouth Colony from starvation.
62. llie Deep-Sea Fishes include the cod, pollock, hake,
haddock, halibut, and mackerel. In the cod and mackerel
fisheries, some 4,000 of vessel tonnage are employed. Custom
house returns for 1874, show a product as follows :
Codfish cured 88,099 cwt. - - Cash vahie $164,625
Mackerel. 11,800 - _ . . " 89,820
Hake, haddock and pollock, 15,000 cwt. " 25,200
Total - _ _ - - $276,645
By a new process, haddock are converted into a very
marketable article, known as "finnie haddie," which gives to
the catching of this kind of fish a commercial value hitherto
unknown.
63. Boat-Fishinq . — The trade in fresh fish, caught and
brought in open boats, is usually overlooked in the statistics
of this industry. Many of the inhabitants upon the outer
islands subsist chiefly by supplying the maritime towns with
HANCOCK COONTT. 39
fresh cod, hake and haddock. At Lunt's Long Ishmd,
women are seen ahiiost daily rowing " cross or open handed "
on their Avay to the fishing grounds. ^Nlan}^ of them are
"high-line" fisher men. Returns show this domestic deep-
sea fishing to have yielded 444,000 pounds, valued at $8,880.
64. , Herring. — This branch of fishing, scarcely second to
any in commercial importance, is sub-divided, — the summer
Magdalen herring fishing — the winter Grand ]Menan and the
harbor weirs. The data at hand, show the weir and summer
catch as 330,350 boxes ; value, $80,487. The Magdalen and
Grand Menan herring fishing is conducted principally by the
people of Lamoine and Swan's Island. On the return of the
fishing vessels, with good "fares," the "washing out," string-
ing, smoking and boxing of the herring, make a lively time.
65. Harbor Fishing. — This includes the porgie, lobster,
smelt, eels, frost-fish, flounders, clams and scollops.
^Q. Porgies. — This migratory fish, which "schools" in
our waters in illimitable numbers, has opened a new industry,
in the productions of oil, fertilizers and sheep feed. They
come in July and stay until into October. But a few years
since, they were thought to be inedible and valueless, except
for mackerel bait. Accident developed their oil-yielding
gift. The yield of oil is about 12^ per cent, of their live
weight. The residuum left after expressing the oil, or the
" chum " as it is known in our vernacular, properly prepared,
is a fertilizer without a peer. In its crude condition, as it
comes from the oil-press, its fertilizing properties are from
four to six times as powerful as farm yard deposits.
The greater and more valuable of its plant-food is its nitro-
gen. The aptitude of this valuable constituent to "fly ofl'"
and " waste its odors in the desert air," when chum is left in
heaps exposed to a scorching sun and searching winds, for a
long time, escaped the observation of all concerned. A
smelling acquaintance Avill unerringly tell Avhen chum is
decomposing and throwing oft* its golden nitrogen. This
exposure-loss is more than half of its money value. The
greatest value of chum is a sheep feed, for which it is pre-
40 HANCOCK COUNTY.
pared by sun drying. This process reduces its original
weight 75 per cent., equivalent to an increase of its weight of
common barn manure. As a sheep feed, its nutrient proper-
ties chemically considered, are those known as " fat-formers."
Formerly porgies were caught in nets, but now are taken in
seines. From 400 to 600 tons of chum are made annually
within the county limits. W. A. Friend, Brooklin, estimates
the yearly cash value of raw chum at $6,000. The experi-
ence of the writer is that the feeding value of one ton of
cured chum, is equal to that of thirty-six bushels of corn.
When porgie or herring chum, as a feed or a fertilizer, is
so prepared as to conserve its nitrogen, or ammonia, its
agricultural value is much greater than its present commercial
value ; otherwise its commercial value is more than its agri-
cultural. Estimating a ton of fresh animal manure at $5.77,
a corresponding value for chum is $34.62.
The porgie catch in the State last season, employed 94 sail
vessels, 17 steamers, 700 men, and a capital of $650,000.
The largest seines are 200 fathoms long, by 30 fathoms deep.
Experiments made at the Massachusetts Agricultural Col-
lege, by applying ether to dried chum, show that the hydraulic
pressure employed at the factories, expresses but a triHe more
than 70 per cent, of the oil.
A patent has recently been obtained for preparing porgie
chum as a sheep feed. Yet no one with sconce enough to
sun-dry fresh chum, need pay a royalty to a patentee.
67. Lobsters. — As lobsters are found only on this side of
Cape Cod, and the demand for their luxurious flesh is im-
mense ; this makes a ver}' great business for our county
people. Packing and canning establishments are in success-
ful operation at Castine, Deer Isle, Brooklin, Gouldsboro',
Mt. Desert and Cranberry Isles, and at other points. The
aggregate value of this production reaches a value of $52,000.
Q%. Smelts. — The catch, chiefly, of these little but deli-
cious fishes, is in Bagaduce river and Patten's Bay. The
smelt and frost-fish are unlike. The season of smelt-fishing
begins as soon as the ice is sufficiently firm to carry the
HANCOCK COUNTY. 41
catchers. Each has a " seven by nine," cotton cloth covered
fish-house, with a floor and a stove. An average day's catch
nets the fisher $2.50. Hundreds of these snow-Avhite fish
houses speck the 2cescape, and resemble the tents of an army
encampment. The yearly production is $30,000.
69. Frost-FisJi. — The principal branch of this fishing is
at the Bucksport and Verona bridge. For the rental right
to this fishing ground, as high as $1,300 per year has been
paid. The yearly product in cash value for frost-fish, floun-
ders, eels and scallops, is $11,000. The value of other fish
is $20,200. Clams 1)06 bbls., $32,500.
70. River Fisheries. — These include such of the anadro-
mous fishes as the alewives, shad and salmon. While the
alewive belongs to the herring family, it spawns in fresh
water. The shad, of the same family, is a very timid fish.
The salmon, esteemed for their delicacy of flesh, is the largest
and most valuable. Until a comparatively recent period,
the rivers of this county fairly swarmed with them.
Salmon Ashing is now confined to the Penobscot and Baga-
duce rivers. In olden times the most abundant fish in our
rivers, was the shad, and next the salmon. Alewives were ex-
ceedingly abundant. River fishing at the present, is almost
confined to w^eirs, which cost some $80 each. Between
Bucksport and Castine, both inclusive, there are ninety-two
weirs.
The most productive weir of which we have any informa-
tion, is that at the entrance of Castine harbor, which produces
in one year more than 1,600 pounds of salmon. From Cas-
tine to Orland the average catch is set at fifty per weir. In
Verona the best weirs yield about 100 each. Above Bucks-
port it falls to thirty each. The breeding grounds of ale-
wives are in the ponds on Eastern river. Walker's pond in
Brooksville, and Patten's ponds in Surry. Formerly Union
river was a favorite haunt of salmon, shad and alewives.
Upon the presence of the anadromous fishes in our rivers
and ponds, depends the existence of cod, haddock and pollock
in our bays. The relationships are those of cause and effect.
42
HANCOCK COUNTY.
71. Fish Farming, or Fish Culture, or Pisciculture, by
whichever of these terms it is known, is not a new but a
re-discovered art. Its practical meaning is a restocking of
our ponds with fish. These were once prolific in all the
kinds of migratory fish, such as pickerel, perch, bass, shad,
salmon, alewives, togue and trout.
No one, having a knowledge of the habits of these fishes,
can inspect our vast lacustrine surface, with its cold, limpid
waters, without being impressed with the extent and magni-
tude of our county's fish farm.
The only reliable data which we can recall to show the re-
munerative harvests which these non-productive waters may
be made to yield, is the river Tay, in Scotland, which for
seven years has aflorded to the riparian an annual average of
$74,616. Now for a comparison: In the same ratio which
that river has been made to yield of restocked fish, Patten's
ponds in Surry would produce yearly, in cash value, $660
Toddy ponds 1,000
Union river and tributaries 24,000
When our fish farms are once seeded, it is perpetual.
Commissioner Stanley says that Patten's ponds are of the
best salmon producing ponds in the State.
For what is being done to restock our waters, read the ac-
companying letter of Ex-State Fish Commissioner Atkins. I
commend its careful perusal :
" Penobscot Salmon Breeding Works. — This institution, situated iu Bucks-
port, on Spofford's brook, one mile from the Penobscot river, was founded
in 1872. Its object is to collect salmon eggs for use in restocking ex-
hausted salmon rivers. The present patrons of the enterprise are the
Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries of the United States, and the Com-
missioners of Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, Ehode
Island, Connecticut and Michigan, all acting in behalf of their several
governments, and using the ^ggii obtained to restock ijublic waters.
The mode of operating is as follows : In June or July, six or seven hun-
dered salmon are bought alive from the fishermen near Bueksport, and
transferi-ed to a small pond, known as ' Great Pond,' where they are kept
until the last of October, when they begin to lay their eggs. They are
then taken from the pond, and deprived of their eggs by manual pressure.
The eggs are fecundated by the application of milt from the male fish,
HANCOCK COUNTY. 43
and depositefl in hatching tronghs, wliere tlioy lie until snfflciently devel-
oped to admit of being pat-ked up in moss and transported to tlie several
places where they are to be liatched out. Tliis transportation is effected
in February and March, and they hatcli soon after.
The number of eggs obtained in 1872 was 1,560,000, and the number of
young fish obtained from tliem, and distributed, was 876,000. In 1873, the
number of eggs obtained was about 2.400.000. and so great success has
attended tiieir development tliat they cannot fail to yield about 2,000,000
of young salmon. The expenditure in 1872-3. was about -$7,800, and in
1873—1. about $0,500. Considerable parts of these sums were for buildings
and fixtures. The hatching house is seventy feet by twenty-eight, and
with its present fixtures has a capacity sufficient for the development of
four and a half millions of eggs.''
Last year (1875) some 2,000,000 salmon eggs were dis-
tributed from these works, and planted in other waters of
Maine. Craig's pond in Orland, was stocked with salmon in
1873, and Phillips' pond in Dedham, with black bass, a year
or two earlier. This season, lish-ways were constructed in
the outlet of Patten's pond, in Surry.
72. 0^7.— The yearly yield of fish oil for 1873, as per data,
was, of cod, hake and porgie, 32,174 gallons, having a mar-
ket value of $27,245. Of this sum, $20,000 was for porgie
oil. Thus we have :
Deep-sea production, value _ _ _ - $296,645
Boat fisliing - - - 8,880
Harbor fishing ------- 211.987
Oil --------- - 27.345
Total value --.___ $544,857
Fish-farming, or the propagation of fish in our rivers and
ponds, though in its infancy, is big with promise. It is said
that four Indians took 2,000 pounds of pickerel from Scam-
raon's pond m Eastbrook, in one week.
73. "Water Power. — The Hydrographic Survey of the
State gives our combined area of pond surface, as 11 per
cent. al)ove the proportion due to our size. Subjoined is a
list of those of the first and second rank.
Aurora. — Giles' and Middle Branch.
JBucksporf. — William, Bucks, McCurtis, Reed, Long, Han
cock. Great, and sections of Brewer's and Moulton's.
44 HANCOCK COUNTY.
BlueJiill. — First, Second, Third, Fourth, Noyes and
Guptill's.
BrooTisviUe. — Walker's, Parker's, Blodgett's, Snake and
Bakemans, a salt water pond.
Deer Me. — Torrey's.
Dedham. — Reed's, Goose, Rocky, Mitchell's, Allen's,
Fitz's, Mountain, Hat Case, and section of Moulton's, and
Rocky No. 2.
Ellsworth. — Branch, Reed's, and section of Patten's.
Eden. — Eagle.
Easthrook. — Molasses, Abram's and section of Webb's and
Scammon's.
Franklin. — George's, Taunton and. section of Donnels'.
Gouldsbord' . — Jones and Forbes.
Lamoine. — Blunt's, a natural curiosity.
Mariaville. — Section of Hopkins'.
Mt. Desert. — Hallocks, Jordans', and section of Great
Denings, and Round.
Otis. — Floods', Beach Hill, and section of Spring, and
Rocky.
Orland. — Alamasook, Craig's, Rocky, Heart, Hot Hole,
section of Toddy, and Pattens.
Penobscot. — Pierces, North Bay, and section of Toddy.
8edgwick. — Frost's and Orcutt's.
Surry. — Sections of Upper Patten, Lower Patten and
Toddy.
Sidlivan. — Flanders, Morancy and Simpson's.
Tremont. — Seal Cove, and section of Great and Denings.
Waltham. — Little, and section of Webb's.
No. 10. Great Tunk, Long, Fox, Rocky, Downing and
section of Spring Run and Round.
No. 21, Spectacle; No. 22, Rocky; No. 33, Great; No.
34, Alligator Lake ; No. 40, section of Abamgamook and
Nicartou Lakes.
Whole number of powers which may be worked all the
year, 92.
Working energy equal to a population of 1,000,000.
HANCOCK COUNTY.
45
TOWNS.
No. of
Powers.
Ma.\imum
height of fall.
Minimum
height of fall.
Work all
the year.
Amherst
Bluehill
6
9
8
9
1
1
5
2
4
39
6
4
3
5
4
16
7
5
9
9
■;
2
2
20
7 feot.
14 "
'IS :;
12 "
15 "
10 "
11 "
12 "
30 "
10 "
15 "
10 "
20 "
30 "
12 "
12 "
10 "
18 "
7 feet.
9 "
9 "
11 "
12 "
12 "
10 «
9 "
10 "
15 "
10 "
12 "
10 "
10 "
11 '■
10 "
12 "
10 "
10 "
2
4
Brooksvillo
Bucksport
Castine
2
7
1
1
5
Deer Isle
2
Eden
Ellsworth
39
2
4
Hancock
Mariaville
Mt. Desert
Orland
1
1
16
Sedgwick
2
2
3
Surry
Tremont
9
8
2
Waltham
2
Nos. 3-4-7-10 35 40-41
11
Agricultural Features and Practices.
74. The best of the feast has been saved, to be served in
the second course.
A primary farming county, this can never hope to be.
There are natural obstacles, which art cannot remove. Its
peculiar proximity to the ocean, its geographical position as
the battle-ground of arctic and torrid temperatures, with their
alternating climatic weaves of heat and cold, producing long,
cold, and uncertain springs, with irregular extremes of thaw-
ing and freezing, so fatal to grass roots, the inexhaustible
hydraulic power within its borders, the facilities for coasting
and fishing, and the extraordinary aversion to farm labor,
become characteristics in common, which forbid a prosperous
and productive agriculture.
Could our water power be utilized, it would invigorate
agriculture and make it remunerative.
We have some good farms and farmers, lint those are the
exceptions, limited in consequence of the wrong direction in
46
HANCOCK COUNTY.
which our practical farming has been progressing, i. e. in the
direction of grain growing and hoed crops, rather than graz-
ing, dairying, and mutton growing.
Accounting for 10 per cent, of improved land in tillage, and
occupied by buildings, leaves for crops as follows : ()5,o0()
acres in hay ; 1,892 acres in potatoes ; 1,091 acres in barley ;
1,637 acres in oats ; 270 acres in wheat ; 250 acres in coru.
Those to every fifty-three improved acres ; one cow to every
seventeen improved acres, or one cow to every six and one-
third inhabitants.
75. Area. — The whole surface area of the county, as shown
by Colton's map, is :
Whole area __-_-. 1,(332.000 srjuare miles.
Land area ------- 904..528 "
Ocean area ------ 637.472 "
Pond area ------- 90,000
Island area ------ 100.000
The relative proportion of each is :
Land area .__---- 624 per cent.
Ocean area ------ 30 •'
Pond area ------- Tj''
Island area - - - - - - Hi"
Other areas :
Wild land area _ - - - 530.499 square acres.
Elver basin area - - - 104,068 '"'•
Area in farms (improA^ed) - - 103. .538 "
Area in pasture ----- 73,483 "
Area in fire-wood lots - - - 80.483 "
Area in highways _ - - - 2.100 "
The cash value of farms, stock and implements, is :
Farms $3,032,269
Stock - 802.934
Implements -------- 24.5.000
Poultry - 75.000
Capital embarked in agriculture - - - $4,155,203
Density of population, one inhabitant to every 25 square
acres.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 47
Price. Value.
.«i2.00 per bush. §5,998
1.00 " 131
1.05 " 6.259
.70 " 24.077
.90 '*■ 29.518
1.00 '• r.io
.50 '• 110.G89
.40 per lb. 29.130
2.00 per bush. 19.728
.40 per lb. 212.798
.20 '' 2.119
.20 per gal. 4.368
14.00 per ton, 457.142
.25 per lb. 1,418
.20 per doz. 128,000
3.50 per bush. 7.000
One-tenth of the horses or colts sold annually. $30 per head, 5,585
One-fourth of the sheep sold annually, .$3.25 per head - - 16,250
Pigs and pork ._.--__ o.OOO
Orchards _______ 10.(;17
Slaughtered animals ______ 130.845
Poultry sold .---_-_ 48.000
Other products _______ 49.235
Tfi. Cr
'Ops.
Farm Crops.
Amount.
Wheat,
2.999 busliels
Eye,
131
Corn,
5,971
Oats,
34,396
Barley,
32.798
Buckwheat,
610 "
Potatoes.
221.379
>rool,
72.827 lbs.
Peas and Beans,
9.864 bush.
Butter,
531,997 lbs.
Cheese,
10.596 lbs.
Milk sold.
21.844 gals.
Hay.
32.653 tons,
Honey.
5.673 lbs.
Eggs.
640.000 doz.
CranlK'rries.
2.000 bush.
Total value of form products _ . _ 81.260.989
Which would be $4.80 per acre for all the field and pasture
land in the county. The average number of acres in each
farm being 70, it follows that the average annual surplus of
the farm is $336.
The proportion of cows to aggregate stock, is 37 per cent.
In 1860, butter per cow, 82 lbs. In 1870, per cow, 92 lbs.
In 1873, per cow, 109 lbs. Numl)er of coavs, 5,777 ; num-
ber of oxen, 2,399 ; number of other cattle, 5,103 ; number
of horses, 1,958; number of sheep, 20,084.
The tendenc}^ of grain growing for the last decade, as shoAvn
by the census returns (which arc not entitled to implicit con-
fidence so long as there are so many units of measure as there
are points of compass), are, in i860, taking rank as follows,
and in 1873 as follows :
In 1860. Ill 1873. Crop rep. by rep. in 1873.
1. Oats. 1. Oats. 100 ill 1860, Oats, 100 by .64
2. AVlieat, 2. Barley, Barley, 100 1.02
3. Barley, 3. Corn,' Corn. 100 .34
4. Corn, 4. Wheat, Wlieat. 100 .42
5. Eye, 5. Eye, Eye, 100 .17
48
HANCOCK COUNTY.
Total bushels of grain in 1860, 110,420. Total in 1873,
76,296, or a decrease of 30 per cent.
The lessons which these data teach are, first, that our
county is growing out of grain-growing, barley excepted ;
second, that a reduction of 83 per cent, in the rye crop in 13
years, shows that the soil is being cropped of its available
nitrogen, so easily supplied by marine manuring, hence the
falling off in wheat and corn.
As our farming seems to be going from grain growing, in
what direction is ,it trending ?
The increased product of cranberries in thirteen years is 400 per cent.
Poultry and eggs _____ 200 "
Catth^ in vahie - - - - - - 45 •'
Orchard products _____ 42 "
Butter in pounds - - - - - 32 ''
Mutton - - - - - - 23 "
The increase in butter per cow, from 1S70 to 1873, is 11| "
Milk _______ 11 "
Thus the statistical trend of our forming is to cranberries,
grazing, butter, apples and eggs.
Along the indentations in its dividing ridges of highlands,
the soil has the elements for growing winter Mdieat profitably.
The drift on its numerous hill-sides, makes many a rocky acre
admirably calculated for orcharding, for growing those choice
winter varieties of apples for which there ever is a hungry
demand. The general condition of its surface is that of a
dairy and mutton growing, or grazing district, wiiile there is
hardly a town in the county without its cranberry area, of
greater or less extent.
The past ten years' ratio of increased cran1)erry culture,
carried forward, at the expiration of twenty-five years will
give a product of $70,000.
Of the county area which is now unimproved, one-half of
it may be set out as profitable for pasturage only, grazing
ground for a million sheep. The half remaining would make
4,892 farms of seventy acres each.
The topography of the surface of the county, and the litho-
logical character of the soil, mark the characteristics of its
HANCOCK COUNTY. 49,
a o-ri cultural capacity as a grazing district. The hilly nature
of the land points to grazing as the true method whereby the
land shall be made profitable. Grain should be grown only
as an exceptional crop, secondary to the increased productive-
ness of the land for the growth of hay. The precipitous hill-
side, where cattle have to "shin up" to gather the scanty herb-
age, should grow wood.
77. Orchards. — In orchard acreage Dedham stands fii'st, .
and of Avinter fruit, Bucksport next ; Vhile every town can
show more or less of thrifty trees. The large, gnarled, moss-
covered apple trees which stand in close proximity to the
"potato-holes" of the early settlers, show that they tind favor-
able conditions of growth in our soil and climate.
The county did not escape the apple tree cyclone which .
swept over the State. Its investment in New York trees,
trustworthy estimates put at $175,000. A profitable orchard
is within the reach of every farmer, by as plain and simple
means as a crop of potatoes. . For position, select a northern
slope. The cardinal conditions of success, are varieties, prox-
imity, and culture. Plant "iron clads," or such varieties as
are known to be hardy. For hardiness and ability to with-
stand our climatic extremes, the following varieties can be
commended :
For summer apples, Tetofsky, Red Astrachan, Sops of
Wine, Xodhead, Early Harvest, and Williams' Favorite.
For fall apples, Duchess of Oldenburg, Porter, Graven-
stein, St. Lawrence and Fameuse.
For winter apples, Northern Spy, Granite Beauty, Talman's
Sweet, Rhode Island Greening, Baldwin, and Spitzenburgh.
Of crab apples, the Dartmouth and Aucubafoila are upright
growers, large and handsome. The fruit is of fair eating size.
The best orchards in Aroostook and in New Brunswick,
have 680 trees to an acre. A very prolific orcliard at Orono,
has 2,500 trees on five acres. Twelve feet apart, each way,
will give 302 trees to an acre. Ten feet apart, 435 ; eight
feet apart, 680.
4
50 HANCOCK COUNTY.
Mr. Soule of Gouldsborough, one of our oldest and most
successful orchardists, says : "I am satisiied there is no part
of the New Enghmd States, where better fruit can be grown,
or wliere fruit growing can be made more profitable, than in
Eastern Maine." Rev. L. Gott, an orchardist of large expe-
rience, and a close observer, writes, " there is quite as much
in the soil, mode of preparation, planting of trees and proper
care afterward, to insure success, as in the selection of
varieties." •
78. Grai^es. — Grape culture has received but limited
attention. Those varieties which are quite sure to ripen in
"open" culture, are the Northern Muscadine, Clinton, Hart-
ford Prolific, Delaware, Rebecca, Blood's Seedling, Adiron-
dac and Salem. The Northern Muscadine has a foxy taste,
w^hich is objectionable, while the Clinton is apt to mildew.
With little care and at slight expense, any family can grow
grapes enough for domestic use.
79. Oranherries, — There are thousands of acres of low,
wet, swampy lands in the county,. utterly worthless for gen-
eral cultivation, that are admirably suited to the cranberry,
and when we remember that they yield from 100 to 400
bushels per acre, and sell for from two dollars to six dollars
per bushel, it is a wonder that no more of such worthless
tracts are put into cranberries.
Hundreds of bushels of cultivated cranberries are grown in
Surry, Lamoine, Hancock, Franklin and Eden, with lesser
quantities in many other towns. The principal varieties cul-
■tivated, are the Cherry and the Bell. The Cherry is the
most productive, but it is not as hardy as the Bell. It is an
established fact, that no other soil than the alluvhun soil,
made by deposits from the overflow or wash of water, com-
bined with silex, or sand (the meal of granite) , will success-
fully grow the cranberry. Considering the number and
extent of bogs and marshes which contain silex, or sand in
the desired proportion, the growing of this valuable fruit
must become one of our best future industries. The power
to flood or drain at will, insures the best returns. The pro-
HANCOCK COUNTY. 51
ductiveness of a patch, in most cases, is largely increased by-
sanding, which can be done in winter. Beach sand is the
best.
80. Poultry. — The production of eggs, is of greater
importance than people imagine, and as a branch of domestic
industry, should receive great care and attention. The
amount produced in this county last year (1875) is not a
matter of estimate only, for we have some statistics in regard
to it. The quantity of eggs received by the dealers, in three
towns, last year, was 78,380 dozens, which in the same pro-
portion, give, for the county, 640,000 dozens. Large, and
wonderful as these figures are, judging from shipments, of
which no data can be had, this enormous amount is below,
rather than above, the actual production. While the eggs
produced in the great State of New York do not one-half
supply the consumption of New York Cit}'' alone, it is safe to
assume that the supply will not glut the market.
Orland sent to market 77,800 dozen Qgg^, which sold at an
average of twenty-five cents, making a total of $19,450.
For breeds we have Leghorn, Black Spanish, Brahmas,
Light and Dark, and "Natives," or properly Mongrels.
AVhich is the best breed, no sane writer, without an "Acci-
dent Life Policy," will presume to' say. The present drift of
preferment, is toward the White Leghorn and White Brah-
mas. Yet, l)ut few of our farmers ^have come to realize the
value of a breed, or of the net cash profit of hens, when
properly fed and furnished. My experience is, that there is
nothing in the shape of live stock reared on our farms, con-
sidering the outlay, that compares with them for profit ; yet
very many only look upon them as a necessary evil, to be
endured because the " women folks want them."
81. Butter. — Every farmer's wife knows how to make
butter, but their name is not legion that can make the "gilt-
edged," or even an article which will keep sweet and good
for a year.
Money making in Imtter making, involves a judicious selec-
tion of dairy breeds ; for while some butter can be made
52 HANCOCK COUNTY.
from any breed,' certain breeds seem to be gotten up specifi-
cally for that unctuous purpose. Till quite recently, no
special effort has been made to introduce a class of purely
dairy animals. Whatever infusion of " blood " there may
have been, has been with special reference to girt and weight,
the market demand being for large and heavy oxen. The
growing scarcity of lumber, and the substitution of horses,
have removed this demand, and turned attention to a class of
stock bred for dairy purposes. This has caused the introduc-
tion of many animals of high grade ; but the only " Herd
Register" animals are Ayrshires, by Frank Buck, Orland ;
Jersey, by H. H. Clark, Tremont, and Shorthorns, by H.
Davis, Ellsworth. Popular favor seems to lean toward a
Jersey grade.
While the value and influence of thoroughbreds are of prime
importance, and should not be undervalued, the management
of cows is no less a first requisite to successful dairy hus-
bandry. One not having given close attention to the influ-
ence of abundant and good feeding, adapted to the special
object of producing butter, has no conception of how much
any cow can be made to increase her yield ; nor no less
prepared are most dairymen to accept the difference in yield
of different cows, with the same feed.
The difference is very great ; oftentimes while one cow is
producing a hundred pounds, another feeding out of the same
crib, is making but fifty pounds. This difference is attribu-
table, chiefly, to two causes : 1st — Some cows, from causes
unknown, appropriate the butterous constituents in their food
to fat, or as /we?, to keep up animal heat, or to some purpose
other than butter. 2d — In all milk as it comes from the cow,
the iDutter particles are held in suspension, or are floating all
through the " mess." With the milk of some, as soon as it is
at rest, all of the butter particles — oil-like — rise to the sur-
face as cream ; while in the milk of others, but part of these
particles ever reach the surface, but remain floating all
through the "mess," and are lost, unless the milk is churned.
Strictly speaking, no dairy-woman ever made a pound of
1
HANCOCK COUNTY. 53
butter — for it comes " ready-made " from the cow — but only-
separated it from milk by churning ; and a complete separa-
tion, to obtain all of the butter, can be had only by churning
the milk.
As a rule, it is safe to reckon six ounces of butter, or
fifteen ounces of cheese, from a gallon of milk. With the
best of cows, the sweetest feed, and the purest water, the
taste and flavor of butter depends on the mode of making.
82, Sheep. — In 1870 the number of sheep in the county
was 28,000 less than it was in 1840 ; and yet, it is one of the
best natural sheep-ranges in New England.
If there may be "sermons in stones," there are whole tones
of significance in these figures ; for by a subsequent showing,
the decrease in sheep, is an accurate archetype of the decrease
of the staple crops. The decrease in bushels of wheat, and
in the number of sheep, about the same. The ratio is found
to hold good for two years, or for thirty years. The aggre-
gate grain crop, wheat, corn, barley, and oats, shows for the
past 30 years, a per cent, of loss difiering but little from the
per cent, of loss in sheep for the same period. This, with
other facts, evince the existence of an umbilical chord, which
extends from flocks of sheep to fruitfulness of land.
Of our 788,000 square acres of land area, (after deducting
1-16 part to grow fuel) about 3-5, or 443,000 square acres,
are natural grazing, or unnatural plow-land ; while much of
it, in consequence of its rough surface, and its coarse herbage,
is valueless except for sheep pasturage.
If this be so, why had we 48,000 sheep in 1840, and only
20,000 in 1870? Simply for the reason, that hitherto our
sheep-husbandry has been pursued exclusively with a view to
the groAvth of wool rather than mutton. To produce the best
of mutton, is our "rough land of hill, and stone, and tree,"
pre-eminently fitted. These thousands of acres of ours,
briery, bush}^ pastures, should be stocked with Southdowns,
the best of mutton breeds — hardy, docile and prolific.
Hundreds of these waste acres — 39 acres to one sheep —
stand upon the assessor's books at a value of but seventy
54 HANCOCK COUNTY.
cents an acre, which as sheep pastures would pay an interest
of from $3.00 to $7.00 an acre, provided we were rid of our
2,400 dogs.
The peculiar adaptation of our soil and climate to the wants
of sheep, is such that they are not liable to many forms of
disease ; the greatest drawback is that of ill-bred and half-fed
dogs. We tax the sheep, and why don't we tax the dogs?
83. Weeds of Hancock — The most of which are natives
of Europe, are :
Buttercups, .Yelloiv Weed, Ranunculusacrh. — A foreigner.
Most abundant in moist seasons. It has become thoroughly
naturalized all over the county. It has an acrid and bitter
taste. A perennial.
Charlock, Field Mustard, Brassica Sinapistrum. — A for-
eigner. A noxious weed in grain fields. The seeds will re-
main in the ground a lifetime without losing their vitality.
It is a most pestiferous plant. An annual.
Purslane, Portulaca oleracca. — An American weed. One
of the most pernicious of garden weeds. Is so very tena-
cious of life that it will grow after having been kept out of
the ground for weeks. Rare in the county. Annual.
Five Finger, Cinquefoil, Potentilla Canadensis. — A worth-
less plant, except for sheep. Its presence indicates a soil want-
ing in lime. Most common in badly cultivated lields. A
perennial.
Caraway, Carum carui. — When it escapes cultivation it
spreads rapidly, and becomes a troublesome weed in grass
fields. It should be carefully kept within bounds. Cattle
will not eat it.
Roman Wormvjood, Pag Weed, Bitter Weed, Ambrosia,
artemisivefolia. — This, in grain fields, is one of the worst of
weeds. The seed will live in soil for years, and is ready to
grow whenever the land is plowed. An annual.
Beggar's Lice, Stick Seed, Echimrpernum lappula. — A
vexatious and obnoxious native weed, entangling the manes
HANCOCK COUNTY. 55
of horses and the fleeces of sheep. It tells of slovenly farm-
iuff. An annual.
May Weed, Dog's Fennel, Tetla Chamomile, Maruta
Gotula. — Came from Europe. Common in door-yards. Is
employed as a substitute for chamomile. Will drive away
fleas. An annual.
Common Tarrow, MUfoil, Snerzeioort, AchiUea, Mille-
folium. — A foreigner. Bad on account of its creeping roots.
An ointment is made from the leaves for scab in sheep. A
perennial.
WJiife Weed, Ox-Eyed Daisy, Leucanthemum vulgare. —
This omnipresent weed is an old acquaintance. The seeds
will germinate after passing through all animals but sheep.
A single root can produce 15,000 seeds. A perennial.
Ohio Daisy, Cone Flower, Rudhechia hiekta. — llecently
introduced in Western grass seed. Flowers large, showy and
yellow. Disk purple. Stem like white weed. It is a foul
weed, and the utmost care should be taken to eradicate it.
A perennial.
Canada Thistle, Cursed T. Cirsium arvense. — The worst
weed to destroy we have. Brought from Scotland to Canada
200 years ago, and sowed in a flower garden. A former not
destroying thistles in his grounds should pay for keeping a
nuisance. A perennial.
Burdock. La/ppa officinalis. — A homely wood, not com-
mon. The burs often become entangled in the wool of sheep.
The bruised leaves are said to be good for hysterics. It is
easily eradicated. A biennial.
Puke Weed, Indian Tobacco, Eye Bright, Lobelia,
Lobelia inflata. — A native. Not troublesome. Botanical
doctors employ it in medicine. A remedy for lambs poisoned
with lambkill. Said to cause the " slabbering " of horses.
An annual.
Pig Weed. Chenopodinm album. — The rapidity with
which this weed can multiply is astonishing. A single pig
weed will ripen 10,000 seeds, giving in a fifth year's progeny
plants enough to cover 18,365,472,910 acres. An annual.
56 hancock county.
Smart Weed, Lady's Thumb, Spotted Knot-Weed,
Polygonum Persicaria. — Came from Europe. It is a worth-
less weed, and is increasing in cultivated fields. The juice
causes an inflammation of the skin. An annual.
SoREEL, Rumex Acctosella. A foreigner ; as contemptible
and quite as despicable as witch grass. Its presence does
not indicate that the soil is sour, and needs an alkali. Its
extirpation is by high cultivation. A perennial.
Barn Grass, Cook-foot Panicum, Panicum crus-galU. —
Came from Europe. When it has once got a good foot-hold
its eradication requires the patience of Job. It is by all odds
the worst of our garden pests. An annual.
Lambkill, Sheep Laurel, Kahnia angustifolia. — This
shrub, rather than weed, is deadly poisonous to sheep and
lambs, Scribner to the contrary, notwithstanding. It is very
troublesome in many sections of the county.
Fall Dandelion, Hawbit, Leontodon autumndle. — This
weed is being widely disseminated throughout the county.
Its blossoms appear just after haying, and continue until the
frosts. A peren^iial.
Witch Grass, Conch Grass, Quack Grass, Dog Grass,
Chandler Grass, Triticum rej)ens. — As a troublesome weed
all others pass into insignificance. Makes the best of hay if
cut early and properly cured. A perennial.
Two of the pernicious weeds, the Ohio Daisy and the Fall
Dandelion, are rapidly spreading over the county. The
former, with pains-taking, can be checked and perhaps eradi-
cated ; the ways of the latter seem " past finding out."
84. Insect Enemies in Hancock. — Good farmers or bad,
we are not without a full quota of insect denizens, injurious
to vegetation, — bugs, borers, beetles, grasshoppers, cater-
pillars, cut-worms and plant lice. Those most annoying and
destructive, are apple tree borers, apple tree caterpillars,
codling-moths, oyster-shell lice, striped bug, turnip beetle,
cabbage, cut and currant worms.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 57
Almost all, our worst foes, have been imported from the
other side of the Atlantic, aud new ones, which come, are
imported in some way. The annual damage done by insects,
within the limits of the United States, is estimated at
$300,000,000.
The Borer (Saperda hivittata) is ruining many an orchard
where his presence is not suspected. A little scratch, like
that of a pin, is made in the bark near the ground, and an
Qgg deposited there by a miller in July. This soon hatches,
and the young worm gnaws its way through the bark. At
this time it can easily be destroyed. If they escape notice
the first season, the second year they live out of sight, upon
the newly formed wood, and are doing the damage. In about
thirty-five months from the time of entering the tree, it
emerges a fully grown miller. The parent miller of the borer
is rarely seen by day. One would be surprised, at knowing
that so many fruit trees are destroyed by this pest.
Oyster Shell Louse. — Everything considered, this insect
is the most pernicious and destructive to the apple tree of any
insect in our county. These lice cover the limbs and twigs
with little oval shells, resembling half a grain of flaxseed,
which are the lying-in houses, in each of which are deposited
from 20 to 40 eggs. These begin to hatch, in this region,
about the middle of June. The insect itself is very small,
and looks like a speck of bluish mould. They are active
only a few days. At this time they can be destroyed. A
wash of soapsuds, in which tobacco has been steeped, and
blue clay added, applied when the little specks can be seen,
is sure death to them. Applications at all other times are
useless.
The Tent Caterpillar. — Constant vigilance is required
to keep trees freed from the troublesome creatures. The
eggs are contained in cylindrical clusters, in tough, leathery,
varnished coverings, which contain several hundred eggs.
The Codling Moth seems on the increase. This is the
insect which causes wormy apples. The best known method
to check their increase is to suspend vials of sweetened water,
58 HANCOCK COUNTY.
in which hundreds of the parent hisects will be drowned, and
in keeping the bark smooth and thrifty.
The Stiuped Bug. — This ubiquitous pest annually destroys
thousands of dollars' worth of squash aud cucumber vines.
They often commence their work by nipping off the young
sprouts before they are even out of the ground. Innumerable
renjedies have been published, but the only sure safeguards
are cheap boxes, open at the bottom and covered with milli-
net on the top.
The Turnip Beetle, or little black bug. These are rarely
destructive when marine manures are used, especially porgie
chum.
The Cabbage Worm. — Of all the insects that infest the
cabbage, that valuable esculent, the most mischievous is the
recently imported green worm. The French call it the "heart
worm." These come from the Rape Butterfly, the bane of
every cabbage grower of Europe. The cabbage is a marine
plant, and the growing of them might be made a very lucra-
tive business in each of our twenty-one towns, which border
on the salt sea, if some method could be devised to destroy
or check the increase of the exceedingly noxious rape butter-
flies. It is said they were brought from France to Quebec in
1858, since which time they have so increased as to destroy,
in Quebec, in one year, $240,000 worth of cabbages. They
iare said to have first reached this State, at Bangor, in 1868.
This is an error, for the writer saw thousands of them in a
cabbage field of Gideon Cook's, in Waltham, in 1861. Not
until about 1870 did their havoc attract attention about the
mouth of Union river, since which they have become very
numerous, and till some preventive can be found they promise
to eflfectually bar the cultivation of this highly esteemed jjlant.
Richard Perkins, of Lamoine, informs me that where he has
applied salt herring scrap, the cabbages escaped the ravages
of this much to be dreaded pest ; and his neighbor, Warren
King, had a like experience. The rape butterfly is a slow,
lumbering fly, and may easily be caught.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 59
The Sawfly or Currant Worm. — ^This terrible pest, which
thus far has baffled every effort to arrest its waste of destruc-
tion, is a newly imported insect. It is said to have appeared
in the neighborhood of Kochester, N. Y. They have come
eastward at the rate of about twenty-five miles a year, reach-
ing here in 1870. They threaten a complete destruction of
our currant and gooseberry bushes. To prevent their rava-
ges, we have applied white hellebore, carbolate of lime, car-
bolic acid, lime and cayenne, but each is alike ineffectual. An
application of milk gives some show of success. It is safe to
say, that already they have destroyed four-fifths of the cur-
rant bushes in the county.
85. Eeal and Ideal Farm Productions. — The following
citation of figures, will give some idea of the vast dispropor-
tion which exists between the actual and the possible farm
productions :
In 1870, the crop acreage of the county Avas — in hay, 65,306
acres ; actual yield half ton per acre, or five acres required
to winter a cow. A possible yield of 2 tons per acre, require
1^ acres to winter a cow.
In potatoes, 1,892 acres ; actual yield 117 bushels, at fifty
cents a bushel, $58.50 per acre. A possible yield, 200 bushels
per acre, or $100 to an acre.
In barley, 1,691 acres ; actual ^neld 16 bushels, at 90 cents,
$17.50 per acre. A possible yield of 30 bushels, $32.83 per
acre.
In oats, 1,637 acres; actual yield 21 bushels per acre, at
60 cents, $12.62 per acre. A possible 3'ield of 36 bushels,
at same price, $21.53 per acre.
Of butter, reported yield 92 pounds per cow, at 40 cents,
$36.80 per cow. A possible product of 250 pounds, same
price, $100 per cow, or for "gilt-edged" butter, at 75 cents,
$187.50 per cow.
A ton of hay fed to the first named cow, would give 18
pounds of butter, or $7.20 a ton for the hay; while hay to
go HANCOCK COUNTY.
the second cow would give 45 pounds of butter, or $18.24
per ton for the hay.
An aggregate average of the above citation gives an in-
crease of more than 200 per cent. , without going far into the
circle of possibilities.
What the possible scope of our acreable productions are,
may be demonstrated by what has been done ; and what has
been done may be repeated.
In 1872, Peter C. Baker, of Orringtou, grew 58 bushels of
Lost Nation wheat, upon one acre ; which, at $1.90 a bushel,
is $110.20 per acre. The same culture applied to our area in
wheat, in 1874, would give a cash return of $29,570, in lieu
of what it was, $5,600.
Take butter : — At present the average is 109 jDounds per
cow. With a yield of 300 pounds per cow — not rare for
Jerseys, Ayrshires, or well fed "natives" — would give $120
for the cash product of a cow. The famous "Ingalls cow,"
owned by Hon. H. Belcher, Somerset county, produced at
the rate of 1,095 pounds.
The present average yield per acre, of our grain and hoed
crops, is $5.78. For more years than one, Jesse Dutton of
Ellsworth, has sold for cash, more than $200 worth of field
crops from an acre. One season Benjamin Shute of North
Hancock, grew $127 worth of onions on a half acre. In five
years, G. H. Emerson of No. Castine, carried an 8 acre field
from 2i tons to 21 tons : while Monroe Young, on the old
Harding farm in Trenton, and Charles Macomber, on the old
Springer farm in Franklin, have increased their hay crops
nearly 600 per cent.
The "possibilities," which might be multiplied, show what
our soil can produce when its dormant capabilities are stirred
into activity.
It is well for such as are short of manure to know that an
application of nitrogen, potash, phosphoric acid, will grow
extraordinary crops. These, in the cheap form of sulphate
of ammonia, muriate of potash, and superphosphate, can be
had of most dealers in chemicals.
HANCOCK COUNTY. gj
86. Of Flowers. — Rer. L. Gott, of West Ellsworth, who
knows whereof he affirms, writes as follows :
"A good many men in our county seem to think that culti-
vating flowers wont pay, and have turned that department of
agriculture over to the ladies. Flowers succeed best in sandy
loam, made rich with well decomposed manure, thoroughly
mixed. Clay soils would be very much benefitted with a
mixture of loam, and to be well spaded in the fall. What
are generally termed 'half-hardy,' by the seedsmen, will
grow nicely in such a soil, with the requisite knowledge in
planting and getting the seed up.
Hardy Annuals. — Ageratum, varieties ; Antirrhinum,
Argemone ; Asters, German and French, varieties ; Balsams,
half-hardy. Rose; Camekia and Carnation, flowered ; Cacalia,
Balliopsis, varieties, beautiful ; Candytuft, Catchfly, Clarkia,
Convolvulus, Delphimum, annual. Dianthus, Japan and
China, varieties. Eschscholtzia, varieties ; Gaillardia, Gilia,
varieties ; Hibiscus Africanus ; Lavatera, Linum, scarlet and
white ; Lupine, Malope, half-hardy ; Marigold, varieties,
half-hardy ; Mignonette, Mirabilis, half-hardy ; Nasturtium,
varieties ; Nemophila, Nigella, Nolano, Pansy, English and
German; Petunia, varieties, splendid; Phlox Drummondii,
varieties ; Portulaca, double and single, varieties ; Schizan-
thus, half-hardy ; Stock, Ten Weeks, varieties ; Verbena,
Whitlavia, Zinnia, Morning Glory.
Everlasting Floioers. — The most of them are half-hardy,
but have been successfully grown by me. Good for winter
boquets, etc. Acroclinium, varieties ; Gomphrena, Helichry-
sum, Helipterum, varieties ; Rhodanthe, Xeranthemum.
Biennials and Perennials. — Aconitum, roots poisonous ;
Aquilegia, varieties ; Chrysanthemum, late ; Delphinium,
varieties ; Hollyhock, varieties ; Hesperis, Lychnis, varie-
ties ; Pentstemon, Sweet William, Helianthus, roots should
be put in the cellar winters.
All of the above flowers have been successfully grown on
my grounds. Some are more showy than others, but all of
them worthy of a place.
Q2 HANCOCK COUNTY.
Hardy Bulbs and tuberous Hoots. — Tulips should be in
every flower garden. Dicentra Spectabilis, Peony, varieties.
Lilies. Bulbs and tubers that require to be kept in the cellar
over winter. — Gladiolus, varieties, splendid; Dahlia, quite
common; Maderia vine, Tigridia, varieties. The above
varieties can be orovvn in this county with good results. The
Gladioli family deserves a more extended cultivation."
Manufacturing Industries, etc. — As an unabridged list
of the manufacturing and mechauical industries would con-
sume a space wholly disproportionate to the impoi-tance of
the information conveyed, such a comparative aggregate only
, is given as may show by the drift of the past the trend of the
future.
In 1860 the total product of the fisheries was $236,000 ; in
1870, $202,000. The loss is in the Grand Bank fishing.
In 1860 the total product of wrought granite was $60,000 ;
in 1870, $175,000. Total product of bricks in 1860, none;
in 1870, $38,000.
In 1860, ice, none; in 1873, $12,000; in 1875, $21,000.
Total product of all industries to each hand employed in
1860, $667; in 1870, $1,500. This diff'erence is not due to
an increase of manufacturing establishmeuts, but to greater
skill and improved machinery.
In 1870 it required 113 men to saw as much lumber as 100
men in 1860. The increased distance which saw-logs have
to ])e brought, notwithstanding the increase in market price
within the last decade, has reduced the net product 13 per
cent, in ten years. The cost of " driving" and the greater
number of logs required to "scale" a thousand, are growing
"outs" which narrow the margin of profit. When the lumber
is exhausted, and it is only a question of time, artisan-skill
and manufacturing energy will shape a new industrial S3^stem.
87. Climatological. — An abstract of the thcrmomctrical
observations taken at !^urry, by Oscar Tripp, shows the aver-
age degree of greatest cold for 4 years was 12°20' below zero,
the average of greatest heat for the same 4 years, was 92°
HANCOCK COUNTY. 63
Fahrenheit ; the mean siminicr temperature for the same 4
years was 67° 21', and the yearly mean 44° 44'. The annual
avera<>-e of temperature in the State, as ascertained at the
Observatory in Portland, was 43°23'. The highest tempera-
ture was 102° ; the lowest, 30° below. Thus it is shown that
the "rise and fall" of the mercury, or the extremes of tem-
perature, are less than for the §tate. The proximity of the
ocean diminishes both the summer's heat and the winter's
cold.
Hancock county being a strictly maritime region, tidal
waters bordering on three of its sides, with an unusually
large inland water surface, and its continental position being
in the meridian of contact between the polar drift and Gulf
Stream current, serve to produce a humid, vaporous atmos-
phere, with a greater number of hazy, misty and foggy days,
than otherwise are due to such an hydrographic area.
The moist, cool, and relatively low temperature of the sum-
mer, exempt this county from the malignant form of malari-
ous diseases.
Those which contribute to the annual mortality are of a
respiratory, or pulmonary character. Of this class of dis-
eases, 27 per cent, of the fatality are due to consumption,
and 15 per cent, to typhus types of fever, leaving 58 per
cent, as chargeable to some one of the remaining 122 diseases
commissioned to break the "thread" of human life.
Consumption, the great destroyer here, as elsewhere, is
classified as an "endemic" disease, its excessively destructive
force being supposed to be due to some local cause. A search
for the local cause should be neither in the humid airs swept
over us by summer drafts, nor in the vapor-condensing winds
from the Bay of Fundy, but in the variously contaminated air
of our non-ventilated dwellings. The wonder is, not that so
man}', but that so few die of consumption, when so little re-
gard is had to the purity of the air we breathe. When the
dwelling houses are so arranged that there is no deficiency of
pure, well oxygenated air, day nnd night, the decrease in con-
sumption's death-rate will be astonishing.
g4 HANCOCK COUNTY.
This matter of ventilation has been mystified, when its
principles are simple. Air enters at a lower orifice, and
passes out at a higher.
88. Social Statistics. — The uncertain relation which
assessed values bear to selling values, the habits of assessment
in the respective towns, with the non-determinable dilference
in " undervaluation," and the wide difiference in the amount of
property, which by " exemption " and evasion escape taxation,
give great uncertainty to all comparative taxable statistics.
Column 1, shows the per capita wealth, as per the assessed
value.
Column 2, shows the per capita wealth as per the census
value.
Column 3, shows the pauper levy on each $1,000 as the
taxable value.
Column 4, shows the pauper levy on each $1,000 of the
real value.
Column 5, shows the proportion of population, more than
" three score and ten."
Amherst,
- .1165 00
#220 00
$3 78
$2 52
1-58
Aurora, -
155 00
206 00
5 12
3 52
1-30
Brookliii,
- 200 00
266 00
2 62
1 75
1-19
Bluehill.
225 00
300 00
1 82
1 22
1-20
Brooksville,
- 190 00
253 00
4 14
2 76
1-22
Bucksport,
360 00 ■
480 00
-
-
1-25
Cranberrj- Isles,
- 255 00
340 00
16
11
1-35
Castine, -
355 00
470 00
4 19
2 80
1-24
Deer Isle,
- 120 00
150 00
4 31
2 88
-
Dedhain,
230 00
306 00
-
-
-
Eden,
- 175 00
233 00
5 60
3 74
1-35
Ellsworth,
235 00
313 00
3 24
2 16
-
Eastbrook, -
- 225 00
300 00
-
-
1-13
Franklin.
165 00
220 00
4 75
3 17
1-43
Gouldsboro',
- 130 00
173 00
2 22
1 49
1-46
Hancock,
170 00
226 00
4 10
2 77
1-23
Lanioine,
- 232 00
309 00
2 45
1 64
1-20
Mt. Desert,
175 00
233 00
4 42
2 98
1-24
Mariaville, -
- 180 00
240 00
-
-
1-46
Orland, -
280 00
273 00
2 93
1 96
1-22
Otis,
- 110 00
146 00
1 80
1 20
1-20
Penobscot,
148 00
197 00
5 52
3 68
1-24
HANCOCK COUNTY. 65,
Sullivan, - - - $195 00 .'«i280 00 $4 79 f3 20 1-31
Surry. ' - - - 172 00 292 00 2 28 1 52 .1-24
Sedgwick, - - - 180 00 240 00 2 52 1 68 1-17
Tremont, - - 145 00 . 193 00 - - -
Trenton. - - - 175 00 223 00 1 15 77 1-19
Waltham, - - 100 00 213 00 - - -
Verona. - - - 109 00 213 00 1 40 98 1-88
By this showing, a thirtieth of our people are "70 past."
This may be a good show for longevity, but it is a bad one
for emigration, for it surely tells that the old folks are left
at home, and the young folks have gone West.
89. Our Industrial Needs. — That which looms up the
most conspicuous, and stands marked in the boldest outline,
is the need of a railroad. This is the tirst essential to the in-
dustrial development of our county. Our vast water power,
practically neglected, presents no attractions for the investi-
ture of capital ; nor can we hope for any new strides in man-
ufactures, or for the introduction of ncAV industries, while our
"spotted lines" compete with the iron horse. Such a compe-
tition is too matchless to be ridiculous. Nor can our agricul-
ture prosper without home markets, nor can there be home
markets without home industries. So long as we are without
that prime necessity — a railway — so long must we endure the
pains and pangs of our chronic embarrassments.
The next industrial need is a reformatory agriculture. At
the present, our agriculture seems to lay becalmed between
the grain growing trade-winds of the past, and the hay pro-
ducing trade-winds of the future ; or in slow transition be-
twixt an agriculture destroyed, and an agriculture restored.
The period of sluggish inaction, is really a needed healthful
state of repose. It must run its course to reach a remedy,
and to dispel old illusions.
Guided by the discernible landmarks in the future, our in-
telligent farmers will steer a course, "however the winds blow
or waves churn," which leads to the production and supply of
those articles for which our soils are best fitted, and wherein
there can be the least competitors. The law of markets is
the only law which admits of no exception. That law shows
5
QQ HANCOCK COUNTY.
that the least competition comes from animal products ; nor is
there any prospect of a keen competition in the Great West
for the four products of butter, cheese, eggs and mutton.
In the production of these, and at remunerative prices, our
farmers can set at defiance the rest of mankind.
Another need is labor saving appliances. The idea that a
farm can't be profitably worked with hired help, is firmly
rooted. The wages which our mills, ship-yards, quarries,
vessels, and kindred industries can afford, are too inflated for
the farmers ; while fiirms worked by muscular labor have
so much of apparent drudgery, that wage-laborers instinc-
tively shun it.
No reform can be of greater utility, than such a one as
shall give use to these " infringements," labor-saving imple-
ments for economizing labor, thereby rendering it more pro-
ductive, and by reducing the cost of production, increasing
the net profit. Labor-saving machinery is the great present
need of our farmers, to elevate their pursuit from degrading
physical toil to one of dignity in the social scale.
Another need is, some incentive to harness our numerous
water-falls to factory wheels, and thus convert them into
engines of labor to construct raw materials into the multiplied
forms of finished product, known to civilized life, thereby
continually renewing and continually increasing our material
wealth.
A restocking our ponds with edible fish is, from any p(unt
of observation, a most pressing need. The amount of easily
attainable food, wholesome, appetizing and cheap, which
our deserted waters might be made to produce, at a price
relatively low to the cost of production, has until quite
recently escaped unseen.
To enumerate all of our needs, or portray all of our natural
resources, would involve an herculean labor. Our water
power, which now furnishes employment to but a thousand
or more, when utilized to its full capacity, would call in more
than a million souls. With such an increase in population,
how^ all of the pulses of industry would throb wath a fresher
HANCOCK COUNTY. 67
life. How the creation of home markets would throw out
streams of agricultural prosperity, and irrigate the whole
laud with fertility. And when its inexhaustible quarries of
granite, marble and quartz ; its annuall}^ recurring ice-fields ;
its plastic clay, and its immense fish pasture are in full blast,
and operated on recognized business principles, who has
prophetic inspiration to forecast the wealth and prosperity
of our county ?
We repeat, the greatest of our industrial needs is a shore-
line raih-oad, having its western terminus at either Castine or
Bucksport, both of which have open winter harbors. During
the hyperborean winter of 1874-5, for a few weeks, the ice
embargoed both of these ports, but it is an embargo which
the Frost King makes but twice in a century.
Statistics of Towns.
92. To ray own personal knowledge, I thought it proper
to add the testimony of others whose experience and obser-
vation are such as to enable them to speak advisedly. To
this end, letters were addressed to residents in each town in
the county, in which, among other inquiries, were the follow-
ing :
1st. The industrial establishments, other than lumber
mills.
2d. The kind of neat stock, sheep and poultry.
3d. The varieties of apples proving hardy and productive.
4th. Minerals, and natural curiosities.
5th. Character of the soil.
6th. Number living exclusively by farming.
7th. Yearly cost of poor.
8th. Number of inhabitants 70 years of age, and over.
In almost every instance, prompt replies were made. My
design originally was, to print the responses verbatim, but
several having expressed an unwillingness to grant that lib-
erty, I have incorporated into the appropriate sub-division,
the cream of the replies.
68 HANCOCK COUNTY.
Herewith are appended the names of those who have aided
me by their contributions : Dr. Joseph L. Stevens, George
V. Mills, David Wasson, George L. Hosmer, Hon. Wyer G.
Sargent, Otis W. Herrick, Wm. Conary, Joseph M. Hutchins,
B. W. Darling, Luther Lord, Oscar Tripp, Frank Buck,
Rev. L. Gott, Chas. H. Atkins, Hosea B. Wardwell, Rev. H.
S. Loring, Chas. P. Silsby, Chas. Otis, John S. Parsons, N.
H. McFarland, Wm. H. Guptill, Dr. Robert Grindle, H. M.
Soule, Richard Perkins, A. B. Berry, A. C. Miliken, Hon.
Warren King, Hon. Wm. W. Bragdon, Leonard J. Thomas,
H. S. Trevett, Henry N. Butler, Hon. W. E. Hadlock, L.
D. Jordan, C. Wasgatt, E. B. Babson, J. C. Chilcott, Hon.
A. H. Whitmore, S. T. Hinks, et als.
The deductions drawn from the correspondence are ;
1st. The number of saw-mills reported, show that no
branch of our manufacturing industry calls for more capital
or employs so many hands. Although the 'old growth' is
nearly subdued, and the days of "up-and-down" saws are
nearly out of "cut," the humidity of our climate gives such a
vigor and persistency to forest vegetation, that treelets swarm
into occupancy of the cleared lands, and dense "second''
growths supply stock for stave, shingle and box mills. For
some years to come will he at the "head-stock," and he at the
"tail-stock" ply their vocation. Says Dr. Grindle in his reply,
" I believe it would be, in the end, a great blessing to our peo-
ple if lumber were to become so cheap in the market that it
would not pay to get it ; for when lumbering will not afford
a living they will turn their attention to some business which
will pay, and at the same time increase instead of diminish
their estates."
2d. The replies, as to "other industrial establishments,"
show by their diversit}^ that the question was variously under-
stood. The information desired was, as to new industries,
whether artisan-skill was giving shape to any new industrial
system.
Outside of the lumber mills there is no leading manufac-
turing industry — none which gives local character. The
HANCOCK COUNTY. gg
carriage, canning, clothing, cordage, tanning, etc., are indi-
vidual, not corporative enterprises. If there is an exception,
it is stone cutting.
3d. " Grades and natives " were the stereotyped answers
as to stock. Of thoroughbreds the show is meagre. When
size was the desideratum the infusion of "pure blood" was
from the Shorthorns. The present tide of demand is toward
Jersey and Ayrshire grades. Devons introduced a few years
since, are now represented by a few grades in Gouldsborough
and West Ellsworth. Unfortunately this race of cattle,
remarkable for hardihood, symmetry, and beauty, were
introduced when the " saw dust was too thick to see its
merit."
The show of sheep is better than that of cattle. The New
Leicester, or Woodstock crosses, predominate. Of pure
breds, Samuel Wasson, East Surry, and the Hill Bros., East
Sullivan, and Frank Buck, Orland, have Southdowns from the
celebrated Thome stock. New York. Brooksville and Brook-
lin have choice sheep.
The poultry, — more " breeds " were reported, than Noah
ever dreamed of.
4th. "Seedlings," say the responses, are "our apples for
profit." G. V. Mills, and 11. M. Soule, the former, having
traveled over Western Hancock more times than any living
man of his years, the latter, recognized authority in Eastern
Hancock, express ver\^ decided preference for " seedlings."
Of introduced varieties worthy of cultivation, a majority
named the Baldwin, grafted, Northern Spy, Talman Sweet-
ing, Red Astrachan, Duchess of Oldenburg, Rhode Island
Greening, and High Top Sweet. The next in order, were
Bell's Early, Porter, Nonesuch and Noosehead. The failures
named are reported as chargeable "to want of care, varieties
too tender, root-grafted, not true to name and hospitals"
5th. JNIost of the replies in reference to minerals, indicate
that the term was taken in its strictest sense, hence most of
them were unsatisfactory and not reliable.
70 HANCOCK COUNTY.
We are geologically assured that there are metallic ores
where their presence is not suspected, and in towns from
which the report saith, "nothing of value."
Appended is a brief descriptive and statistical sketch of
each town in the county, alphabetically arranged.
93. Aurora is situated on the "air line" road, 24 miles
from Ellsworth and 25 miles from Bangor. It is a " six mile
square." Unlike every other town in the county, it has no
mills. Its soil is chiefly gravelly loam, not retentive of
moisture, which can be worked earlier in the spring than
any other town on the Union river. The prevailing rock is
a coarse granite, which is decomposed by infiltration, and is
used to " gravel " the highways. In the eastern part of the
town is one of those alluvial ridges, a marvel to the geologist,
known as " horsebacks." Nothing similar to it is known out
of New England, unless it be known in Northern Europe.
The orchards tell of neglect. That which shows some
care, is upon the farm of H. M. and B. Hall.
On reconnoitreing this, as well as all of the up-river towns,
following the highway, one finds it a "hard road to travel."
The roads following the settlements made upon the summits
of the hardwood hills, are summity in the extreme. An
exploration may discover lime and graphite of economic
value, and possibly anthracite coal.
94. Amherst. — This town, like Aurora, is a six mile
square. It is 22 miles N. N. E. of Ellsworth. It is highly
favored in respect to water power. It has one saw, one clap-
board, one grist, two shingle mills, and a large tannery.
Union river divides the town. East of it is good orchard
land. West of the river, excepting the interval, the soil is
granitic and the surface hilly.
Near the " corner " is a high ledge, some acres in extent, of
a peculiar formation. Rev. Mr. Loring writes, that among
its minerals are " sulphuret of iron, crystals of quartz, slate
and granite." The high ledge we suppose to be porphyry,
containing crystals of iron pyrites, with compact feldspar.
HANCOCK COONTY. 7]^
In the improvement of its stock, Amherst stands unrivalled ;
and this is due mainly to the energy and enterprise of A. B.
Buzzel. Mr. Buzzel has employed a mule team for yeaj's.
The endurance of mules is wonderful ; treated to cheap fare,
and constant labor, yet rarely disa])led or chargeable with
lost time. It would be of mutual advantage to Amherst and
Aurora, to put up a cheese factory at the "corner." Both
towns have entered the cycle of years when farming is to be
a paying pursuit. The hides used in the sole-leather tannery
of Buzzel & Sons, are principally from South America and
Mexico.
95. Bluehill is 14 miles west from Ellsworth, and is 36
miles from Bangor. From this quaint old town, old in appear-
ance, no responses to certain inquiries were made. As seen
in the light of geological discovery, this is the mettalliferous
town of Hancock county. Bluehill mountain, when unsealed
by scientific excavation, will become as interesting a locality
for its minerals of value in the arts, as is Mt. Mica in Oxford
for its rare minerals of beauty. Of its mineral wealth the
grauite only has assumed commercial value. There are four
quarries, Hinckley's, Chase's, Collins', and , and a ceme-
tery monument establishment, by B. W. Darling. These
atford employment for oO yoke of oxen, and 300 wage-
laborers. A few years since, one of the Osgood's manufact-
ured a quantity of manganese brick. At present it has no
great value. In the granite quarried here, which is fine
grained, are veins of copper, iron, fluor-spar, lead, and phos-
phate of lime.
As a summer resort for that class of tourists in search of
quiet, good air, good water, and fine scenery, it is second to
none on the coast of Maine. The same blight has struck its
agriculture, which has come to all of our towns without a
home market. The present need of its farmers, is a cheese
factory. The soil is good, and with suitable cultivation can
be made very productive.
90. Brooklin has one grist-mill, four porgie fiictories, and
two herring packing-houses. It is 26 miles from Ellsworth,.
72 HANCOCK COUNTY.
and 50 miles from Bangor. Naskeag Point is an historic,
reminiscent spot. There are "signs" that it was inhabited at
a time and by a people of which history saith naught. The
soil, says Mr. C. W. Herrick, "is strong and productive."
The hard times are forcing the people to their forms, which
have been sadly neglected. Orcharding, for which the soil is
well adapted, should receive a deal more attention. In years
gone by, when we went there wooing, Capt. Mark Dodge had
a thrifty apple orchard, which was very productive. It has a
good soil for cranberries, and at Centre Harbor one of the
best locations for a cheese fiictory. Its enterprising people
should advertise the attractions of Naskeag and Flye's Point,
and of "Birch Land," as places of resort. Of its mineral
wealth, its "rough and rugged rocks" show evidence of a
paying deposit of phosphate of lime.
97. Broohsville. — This almost island town, is 22 miles
southwest from Ellsworth, and is 40 miles from Bangor.
There are two saw, two shingle, two grist, a stave and a card-
ing mill. The granite quarry at Kench's mountain is the one
first wrought in the county. We remember, in our "pinafore''
days, how those who "cut stone for a living," were assigned
a place in the social scale, down considerably lower than the
angels. About $26,000 worth of worked stone were shipped
from this quarry last year.
At Buck's Harbor (why is it so named ?) is a porgie oil
factory. West Brooksville is the Coasterville of Western
Hancock. Nearly every man sails, helps to man, or is part
owner of a "coaster," which gives a peculiar idiom to their
language, which is perfect Greek to a backwoodsman.
Perkin's mountain is hardly second to Bluehill mountain as
.a locality for minerals. It is said, that some seventy years
ago blacksmith coal was taken from its natural bed at the
foot of the mountain, and tested on a smith's forge. Alum
and copperas are abundant. At the foot of the mountain's
western declivity, is a chalybeate spring.
Standing upon Wasson's hill, one is forcibly impressed that
at no very remote geological period, the waters covered the
HANCOCK COUNTY. 73
whole West Brooksville flat, and that Dodge's cove was a
large bay. Cape Rosier was visited by Samuel Champlain
fifteen years before the landing of the Pilgrims. Wall^er's
pond is a water picture of enchanting loveliness, while the
"devil's track" in the solid granite of Kench's mountain, and
the clam shells on Dodge's and Henry's Points, afford themes
for the curious. Walker's pond is one of the best alewive fish
pastures in the county.
98. Bucksport. — It is an established saying, that "Bucks-
port is 18 miles from everywhere," which saying has given
birth to the following story :
Stranger. How far is it from Bucksport to Belfast?
Citizen. Eighteen miles.
Stranger. How far is it to Castine ?
Citizen, Eighteen miles.
Stranger. How far is it to Bangor ?
Citizen. Eighteen miles.
Stranger. Well, how far is it to Ellsworth?
Citizen. Eighteen miles.
Stranger. (With emphasis) Tell me how far it is from
Bucksport to h-11 ?
Citizen. Not acquainted on that road, don't know.
This is a live town. It has a railroad, and the energy and
enterprise of Bucksport built it. The East Maine Conference
Seminary, an institution of learning having a high standard,
is located here. Bucksport and Orland are the only trading
posts in the county where farm produce can be sold for cash.
The farmers of Bucksport, with their lines of steam commu-
nication, should invest in a cheese factory, corn canning, and
cucumber pickling establishments. Can their farmers' club
do a better work than to take hold of this matter?
99. Cranberry Isles. — This town is situated some three
miles off Mt. Desert, and thirty-five miles from Ellsworth.
The agricultural features of those islands constitute no excep-
tion to those of most of the outer isles. The occupation of
the inhabitants, as well as the substantial arrangements of
their tables, are furnished from the mute being world.
74 HANCOCK COUNTY.
In response to our circular, Col. Hadlock says : "We have
thirty-eight establishments for smoking and curing fish ; some
grade Shorthorns and Ayrshire cattle ; Oxford and Southdown
sheep ; some apple trees, mostly the Gravenstein and Duchess
of Oldenburg. Some of our soil is nice for potatoes. Our men
folks are all, or nearly so, engaged in seafaring pursuits.
100. Castine, 30 miles from Ellsworth and 36 miles from
Bangor, has one saw-mill, one grist-mill ; and a brickyard in
which, last season, were made three millions of bricks — it has
clay, water and sand in close proximity. Adjoining tide water,
accessible at all seasons, are two canning factories ; these es-
tablishments, last year, put up 50,000 cans of lobsters, and
15,000 cans of clams. It has a rope-walk, and a cod and
mackerel line factory, doing a business of $20,000 annually.
There is an orchard in town, planted in 1784, which bears
good fruit. It has Init very little waste land. It has an ex-
cellent wheat soil, and is equally as good for orcharding. It
has one of the few winter harbors, with water bold and deep.
As a summer resort it is unsurpassed, and to be known is to
be appreciated. Dr. Stevens (whose many kind and gener-
ous acts to the sick and to the poor will never be forgotten),
in a letter to me, says : "No minerals of value, except slate
on Holbrook's island. Soil founded on argillaceous slate, a
continuation of the geological formation of the Upper Penob-
scot, terminating on the east at Buck's Harbor in Brooksville."
George H. Emerson, at North Castine, although "driven to
death" with business, has found time to make an old, worn
out field, with a rocky, sour soil, produce two crops of hay
per year ; this has been accomplished by underdraining and
top-dressing. The top-dressing is mainly a compost of rock-
weed and earth, decomposed, and then spread ; the effect is
wonderful.
101. Dedham. — The "Lake House," or Stage House, is 15
miles from Ellsworth, and 11 miles from Bangor. Only
geographically, is Dedham a part of the county. Its water-
power is second in "head," or supply, to but few in the State.
Besides a full quota of lumber mills, it has a large tannery,
HANCOCK COUNTY. 75
which frrinds some'800 cords of hemlock bark, and turns out
yearly about 100 tons of sole-leather.
The whole town is an aggregation of abrupt metamorphic
granite hills. Between its " alpine " peaks are some excellent
farms, and our best orchards. Fitz's pond, having an area
of three square miles, has been stocked with black bass.
Nestled down amono- the hills is a miniature villaire, known
as the " Colony," having a moral and an intellectual flora and
fauna of high order, with a deal of business activity.
Standing in front of "Mann's tavern," and facing Hat Case
pond, one has a magnificent view of a crop of boulders Avhich
have broken from the parent rock, and started on a tour of
dispersion.
The soil of Dedham needs a great deal of stirring to dis-
solve its insoluble potash, to make it available as plant food.
Here are all of the pre-requisites for a corn canning establish-
ment. It would take but a few years for su'ch an enterprise
to make the old farms shine.
102. Deer Me. — This maritime and island municipality
is ,35 miles S. S. W. of Ellsworth. The early settlers who
obtained a title to their lands before the township was sur-
veyed, were termed "proprietors," and those who did not
secure titles until after the survey, were known as "young
settlers."
Formerly, Grand Bank and Bay fishing was the chief busi-
ness. Since the repeal of the "fishing bounty," its fleet of
"long legged bounty catchers," have gone to "Davy Jones'
locker," and a class of coasting and coast-wise vessels taken
their places.
Nearl}' one-half of the township is salt water covered. If
the people are not anqyhihioits, nearly' every citizen can " hand,
reef and steer " with clever expertuess.
At Green's Landing is a granite quarry, which affords a
yearly crop of 4,000 tons of rough and cut stone, while on
the "Reach" shore is a marble quarry. Roofing slate of
good quality has been found on Little Deer Isle. Here, are
76 HANCOCK COUNTY.
conclusive evidences of an extinct volcano, which in some
of the by-gone years hurled aloft a shower of ashes and scald-
ing lava. Perhaps nowhere in the county is the " transition
series " of rocks better characterized than here.
J. H. Parker has invented a machine which, by a new
process, tempers and straightens steel, which is commanding
the attention of saw and knife-blade manufacturers.
Limestone is undoubtedly the parent rock of Deer Isle ;
but having been crystallized, together with the mica which it
contains, renders it uufit for building purposes, as quick-lime,
and gives it a consistence which is best adapted for sculpture
and architecture.
103. Easthrook is eighteen miles N. E. of Ellsworth. It
has no lawyer, doctor, pauper or grog shop. Its mills are
grist, lathe, shingle, clapboard, one each, and two saw mills.
The farmers are improving their stock by the introduction of
Shorthorn, and Jersey crosses. The sheep are mostly Lei-
cester and Cotswold grades. There are some liuely grafted
orchards. Among the bearing varieties are the Golden
Sweet, Early Harvest, August Sweet, Sweet Bough, High
Top Sweet, Red Astrachan, Porter, Gravenstein, Northern
Spy, Duchess of Oldenburg, etc.
Here, as in all of the up-river towns, lumbering is the bane
of farming. This town is noted for its peat deposits — the
coal beds of some future geological period.
Mr. H. N. Butler, an observing farmer, writes me that "in
plowing some of the highest hills, the plow frequently turns
up a kind of stone, which seems to be composed of small
marine shells, firmly imbedded in sand, or in a kind of clay
state." This is the only instance in which fossiliferous rocks
have been reported. These shells must have existed when
the sedimentary rocks were in process of formation under
water ; if the shells are marine, it was the waters of the sea ;
if fresh water, a lake or river; if intermediate, an estuary.
This is as conclusive as if we had lived in that ancient time,
and had witnessed this entombment in the sand.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 77
104. Eden^ a part of the island of Mt. Desert, is 11 miles
S. S. E. of Ellsworth. Here, one must look through other
than farmers' eyes, to view the wonders of the "puzzle box"
to the geologist, the surfjice twisted and contorted as if it had
been "crumpled up" by some mighty hand. It is a land of
curiosities, where naught but a "force Divine " could have
created its wild beauty, and sublime natural scenery. The
"Goi-ge," the "Ovens," "Schooner Head," "Pulpit Rock," the
"Caverns," are some of its "medals of creation."
The chief employment of the people of Eden now is, and is
to be, to cater to the wants of summer tourists. Each season
adds to the number of its visitors, especially of that class
desiring to get out of the suffocating cities into fresh mental
and moral air. It is only a question of time when Eden w ill
have a place in the front rank of fashionable watering places,
and will have quadrupled her per capita w^ealth.'
105. Ellsv:orth. — This is the "lone" city of the county;
but while the city itself is small, Ellsworth, in the aggregate,
is the territorial London of " Down East." The business
portion of the town is situated on Union river, around the
Falls. The Falls which cover a distance of two miles, or
from the Bridge to the Falls Village, have wnthin that two
miles a total fall of 85 feet, or 100 feet in 2^ miles. The
"holding capacity " of the lake and pond feeders, is estimated
at 5,500,000,000 cubic feet, and the cubic feet of water an-
nually delivered at, and discharged over the falls, at 17,500,-
000,000. The height of the head of the river, above its
mouth, is a little more than 205 feet. Above Falls Village
the mean rate of discount is so trifling that the term "slack"
water is appropriately applied.
For the manufacturing establishments reported, I am in-
debted to L. D. Jordan. There are eleven saw mills with
nine "gangs"; nine single saw, eight shingle, five box, three
clapboard, and one grist mill propelled by water. Number
of " up and down " saws 117. Driven by steam, three box
mills, one flour, seven planers, one stave, one pail, three
moulding, one barrel, one grist, one kit, two door, sash and
78 HANCOCK COUNTY.
blind, and one pump and block. The other establishments
are four carriage shops, four harness, two sail-lofts, one iron
foundry, two tin plate and two cabinet makers. When the
raw material for wooden ware is exhausted, and the saw(Uist
and "wrap-stuff" have disappeared, a narrow guage railroad
will be added to its enterprises ; till then
'• We have but faith."
Ellsworth has a large territorial area, which is of but little
agricultural value other than as sheep-ranges, and of little
value for this purpose, while the dogs are uppermost in the
strife. Travelers following the stage road see the fa-.e of
the country in its worst aspect, as the main thoroughfare of
travel passes through a section of metamorphic ledges, " kept
steady " by counterpoising erratic blocks, which have been
brought hither by some terrific earth storm. We know of
no other spot in the county with boulders of grandeur equal
to those deposited l^etweeli Falls Village and the " Cr-iigs."
Each boulder declares it nationality, each a fragment of a
word in a chapter of the world's history.
The American, the only newspaper enterprise in the
county, was started in 1853, and from a small beginning,
has grown into solid favor. Whether on or off the " battle
ground of sparring politicians," may it ever keep active its
scissors, brain and pen.
In the Tyler or McGown district is a flourishing Farmers'
Club. Mr. Tyler has patented a process to preserve eggs,
out of which he expects to make his "pile." Here is a piece
of road, where one having a fancy for mud can indulge knee-
deep, when the frost is coming out.
lOG. Franklin is 11 miles east of Ellsworth, and 17 miles
west of Cherryfield. It has nine lumber mills and two grist
mills, a tannery and three granite quarries. W. W. Brag-
don says, " not one in town is living exclusively by farmjng."
This is another of our sheep-range towns. The soil is coarse
and rocky, but under good cultivation is very productive.
The true policy for her farmers is to plow less and graze
HANCOCK COUNTY. 79
more. Cranberry culture has received some attention, and
thus far is successful.
The material wealth of this town is in its water power and
in its lii-anite. The granite is porphyritic, but splits well,
and is handsome when hammered.
It is among the possiljilities that George's pond may break
its barrier, and in utter disregard of all preference for " sprink-
ling," immerse all in its pathw'ay to the bay.
Fi-anklin has shipped more spars, railroad ties, and ship
timber, than any other town of equal size in this or in Wash-
ington county. Nearly one-third of the hay is cut on salt
marshes ; the rafting or l)ooming it in, after it is mown, that
is, the raking it by water as the tide tlows, is fun for the boys,
but "death" to rheumatic old men.
107. Goiildshorough is 21 miles S. E. of Ellsworth, on the
shore stage line. It is the southeastern town of the county.
It has five saw, and two grist-mills, and one lobster canning
faetor}', (one has been burned recently). The mills of that
mechanical genius, W. L. Guptill, (driven by a "pint of water")
show what an almost incredible amount of shipping material
can be made out of a given measure of raw material.
Here we tind an infusion of Devon and Merino blood. It
must have been a depraved appetite which called for Merino
mutton in that section.
The soil is a clay loam, with blutfs of bold granite, with
veins of galena, zinc and copper. Here, amid the shell heaps
covering acres, and which contain antiquities, such as arrow-
heads, stone hatchets and chisels, pieces of rude pottery,
bones of the moose, the deer, the bear, and those of birds, is
a rich tield for the antiquarian. Among the bones of birds
Avhieh have been unearthed, are those of the Great Auk, now
extinct, which tends to show that an arctic climate once pre-
vailed here. Icelandic chronicles demonstrate that the Skrael-
lings, a people of Esquimaux habits, were at an early period
scattered along these shores. But who
"Slowly sliapcd with axe of stone,
The arrow-head from Hint and bone,"
must be left to the imagination.
80 HANCOCK COUNTY.
108. Hancock. — This T shaped town adjoins Ellsworth on
the east. This town has a larger proportion of arable land
than any other town in the county. It boasts of but one
lumber mill. The farm stock (horned cattle) are Jersey,
Shorthorn and Ayrshire crosses. The fields, buildings and
surroundings, tell of material prosperity. A very noticeable
feature is the absence of that clutteration which disfigures so
many farm door yards.
Within a decade the people upon the Neck have engaged
in Grand Bank fishing, and notwithstanding some heavy
losses, this enterprise is paying. In no other town in the
county (Orland not excepted), does such a business rivalry
exist as here, and out of which so much clean money has been
coined.
To the seekers of pleasure, or to those who would spend a
season imbibing the exhilarating air of our ocean, we know
of no more inviting locality than Crabtree's Neck.
Geologically speaking this is a much younger town than
Sullivan. It w^as evidently formed by the early drainage of
the country during the last great geological changes of this
region. The course of the glacier markings here range from
N. 5° W. to N. 15° E. The " level " of North Hancock sug-
gests the probability of an ancient lake bottom.
109. Lamoine, a sea-washed town, 9 miles S. E. of Ells-
worth, has nothing Frenchy left except its name. Its appoint-
ments all indicate a people " well to live." The soil is good,
and with its facilities for obtaining marine manure, can easil}''
and cheaply be made to produce big crops of hay ; but, says
a citizen, "the people fish a little, and coast a little, and put
the smallest effort and outlay to farming."
The chief industry is fishing. Hon. Warren King gives the
yearly catch of Grand Bank fish at 8,000 quintals, and of
Maffdalen herring at 100,000 boxes, with a combined market
value of $55,000. April, 1876, Lamoine had several vessels
on their Avay to "the Magdalens." As a natural sequence,
where fishing is foremost, cattle husbandry is hindermost.
HANCOCK COUMTY. 81
Here, we notice a new style of "biddy," Sicillian hens.
What its cackling chiim may be, other than to "pick and eat,"
we know not.
Bhnit's pond is one of nature's curious things. Its altitude
above sea level is 300 feet. The colossal embankment which
impounds its thirty acres of area, is so artistically constructed
that one instinctively feels that the "mound-builders" have
been here. Its peculiar location is a marvel, being upon a
height of "loess or bluff formation," which extends in a north-
erly dire^ition across the county.
Along the coast line extensive deposits of clam shells occur,
in which human bones have been found. What bivalve gor-
mandizers "ye" settlers of the olden times were. In this bed
of clam shells, a few years since, Capt. A. G. Berry found a
brass kettle, an axe, and a stone tile. Capt. Berry, who is
quite an antiquarian, has in his possession the account book
of the first settler, also that of Dr. Payson, and some of the
old French deeds as executed by Mrs. Gregorie. From one
dated in 1788, we extract the following, preserving its phra-
seology and spelling :
'•'•We Bnitlioloniy cle Gegorio, and Maria T. his wife, in coiisideratioii of
five Spanish Milled dollars, for divers good causes, us hereunto moving,
do sell unto Martin Gillpatrick * * * * a certain tract of land, with all
the Estate, Eight, Title, Interest, Use, Property, Claim and Demand."
***** Signed by
Bartholomy De Gregoire
Maria Therese de Gregorie nee de law the cadillack.
Acknowledged by Nicholas Holt. Justus peas.
We are told by Mr. Hiram Bartlett, that rock weed as a
top-dressing for grass should be spread as fast as it is pulled.
His fields second his statements. His theory is, that as soon
as rock weed in heaps begins to heat and decompose, ammonia
is formed, and thrown ofi' and lost. Will sea-shore farmers
experiment?
110. Mariaville is one of the "up-river" towns, as all the
country on Union river above Ellsworth is called. The out-
liues of this town are neither straight, zigzag, nor crooked.
Its shape is as inconvenient as an enemy could wish. The
occupied portion is like an Indian mile, "all long and no wide."
32 HANCOCK COUNTY.
Upon the outlet of Flood's pond are several mills and a large
tannery. Here are some good farms, with tastily arranged
farm buildings, as one would expect on the Kennebec. In no
part of "ancient Acadia," can better orchard soil be found.
The most serious drawback is the cost of the roads and
bridges. Every highway surveyor must be a bridge builder.
Why not ask aid of the County Commissioners ?
111. llount Desert. — This " Coaste Hille " town, Cham-
plain's ''L'isle des Monts-deserts " has six mills, one grist and
five lumber, two of which are run by steam. The annual ice
crop is estimated at 1,200 tons. A granite quarry employs
some forty men. The shipment of cut stone, E. B. Babson
estimates at 3,500 tons. Stock mostly native. None live
exclusively by farming. Dr. Grindle says, "not a level field
in town." Hay usuall}'^ sells at a higher rate than elsewhere.
Says Dr. Grindle : " there are a few facts relative to Mt.
Desert which are equally true of many parts of Maine. The
climate is not suited to hic^h farmino-. This is not so much
owing to our high latitude as to our nearness to the Atlantic.
Our mean annual temperature is no lower than other locali-
ties in the same latitude, which are good farming localities ;
but the difference is this, the change from winter to summer
is very sudden, and the period of uncertain weather is very
short, while our nearness to the ocean makes the change
from winter to summer yqvj gradual, and gives us months of
weather which are extremely uncertain. This period of ir-
regular alternating of summer and winter days is the ruin
of agricultural prosperity."
The future of this town, as of the county, is in its water
power, its stone, and its ice. The town of Mt. Desert, as
well as the whole island, exhibits the boulder phenomena in a
wonderful degi'ee. Here are "lost rocks" of red and blue
granite, trap, gneiss, mica schist, clay slate, and fossiliferous
sandstones. The greater portion of the so called granite, is
protogine (talcose granite). There is considerable sienite
(hornblende substituted for mica) , in which are veins of mag-
netic iron, arsenical iron and pyrites.
HANCOCK COUNTY. g3
Green mountain, 1,533 feet high, is the highest peak on
the Atlantic coast from Lubec to the Eio Grande ; nor from
any eminence on the coast can so fine a view be obtained.
112. Orlando at the head of Eastern river, is 15 miles
west of Ellsworth. It has one grist-mill, six saw-mills, and a
woolen factory. The factory, when in full operation, turned
out in one season 30,000 yards of repellants, at six cents a
yard less than any similar establishment in the State.
The surface confirmation of Orland is peculiar. The hills
are conical and precipitous, while the valleys approach the
gorge form. Standing upon a picturesque knoll of " modified
drift," on the farm of Frank Buck, one has a grand view of
the erratic results of one of Nature's tantrums. Before him are
the evidences that in time past, the pent up waters which sub-
merged the vast plane above the iactory, burst their bounds,
and with fearful force cut a new outlet to the sea, formed
Eastern river, and made an island of Verona.
A hasty reconnoisauce show most of the farms under good
cultivation. The farm Iniildings and the fences don't wear
that "don't-care-me-look," which is the harbinger of an arid
community.
Of the 300 voters, 200 arc formers. Upon most of the
farms appear a mowing machine. Frank Buck has some fine
Herd Book Ayrshire and Jersey animals. Few agricultural
centres in Maine show iireatcr activity than Orland villag^e.
In the eastern part of the town arc masses of potash feld-
spar granite rocks, which are crumbling into rock meal ; in
the "meal" gold is found. These boulders are of a porphyric
variety, with black mica. In most of the streams occur
bright yelloAv scales of mica, which have given birth to many
"gold" reports.
On the northeast side of Great Mountain is a cave which
has been explored for sixty feet. It has several rooms with
walls and ceiling of basaltic finish.
We suggest that the mountains of Orland belong to the
Mountain Limestone period, that age of the growing continent
when the crinoed "beads of St. Cuthbert" were made.
84 HANCOCK COUNTY.
113. Otis is "up river," 15 miles north of Ellsworth.
Soil, as a whole, is productive, when cultivated. At present
the good citizens see a " bow of promise " in lumbering,
instead of in farming.
Entering the town from Mariaville, one cannot fail to
notice a peculiarity in the underlaying rock. The strata are
placed perpendicularly, and are composed of alternate layers,
a few inches thick, of a hard slate (talcose) and a kind of
sandstone. The prevailing rock is mica schist interstratified
with impure limestone.
Beech Hill settlement, heretofore known as "New Tren-
ton," can boast of more cousins than all the rest of the
" realm."
In the northerly part of the town, about the outlets of
Flood's and Spring ponds, the surface is level, which requires
muscle and will only to make the soil teem with wealth.
Mr. Charles Otis says, "there is a cave on Oak Hill, on the
west side of Beech Hill pond, which is twelve feet under
ground, with rooms seven feet by ten feet. Ice and snow
having been found in it on the 4th of July, gave it the name
of the ' Cold Cellar.' The western half of Otis is unsettled,
and many good acres are in want of good hands."
114. Penobscot. — We are indebted to Jos. M. Hutchins
foi' an elaborate paper, from which we quote the following
facts :
"Lumber mills, live; grist mills, two; brickyards, four ;
mitten manufactory, one ; this employs 300 knitters, and
yields a yearly product of $12,000.
With the engrafting of new industries, this old town has
renewed its age. The larger number of the names of the
citizens suggest a Scottish ancestry, while a very large num-
ber of men have a wide celebrity for their physical strength.
The Fall Dandelion, Leontodon autumnate, which now has
dandelioned the whole county, we lirst saw, in 1837, at the
Hardscrabble end of the 'Doshen Shore.'
We find some excellent stock here \ particularly noticeable
are some high grade Shorthorns of Mr. Norton's. For some
HANCOCK COUNTY. 85
unexplfiiiied cause, the apple trees are many of them non-
bearers and short-lived. Hen-hawks are unwelcome summer
visitors."
Mr. Hutchins adds, "I have a ledge on my farm, which
lias excited the curiosity of speculatists, and given rise to a
great diversity of opinions among persons not w^ell versed in
mineralogy. It exists in layers, is of a slate color ; when
mixed Avith linseed oil or white lead, makes a durable paint
which defies the action of the elements. It has been used in
patent rooting in lieu of slate, and w^e are told it works well
as cement. It seems to combine to some extent the properties
of lend and slate, and, in fact, appears to be one of Nature's
anomalies, w^iich, on account of its singular combination of
properties, places it in neutral position among her valuable
productions."
115. Sedgivick, 24 miles westerly of Ellsworth, is another
of our misshapen towns. The " pompet " which darkens its
agriculture, is its maritime facility. A large proportion of
this town is non-arable, or grazing land, the bushy acres of
which should be made to turn out annually tons of superior
mutton. From Sargentsville to Sedgwick, following the shore
of Eggmoggin Reach, the soil is easy of cultivation and is
quite productive. Like most of our sea-boarcl towns, the
sea and not the soil, furnishes the bread. The industrial
establishments are mainly those which are related to the fish-
ing industry.
At Sargentsville, Hon. AV. G. Sargent & Son are doing a
flourishing business. At the village are some very pretty
red Durhams, introduced by Joshua Watson. When the
shore-line becomes a summer resort, as it must, the gj-owing
of "garden truck" will become a paying pursuit. The cen-
tral position of Sedgwick is of but little agricultural value.
A few squatters have squat in, and there they stay to see
others live.
A cheese factory, and cucumber growing for pickles, are
the more pressing needs of Sedgwick's farmers. This town
86 HANCOCK COUNTY.
has taken heed to its future, in " building upon a rock," being
underlaid with granite.
116. 8urry, on the west bank of Union River bay, has a
large comparative area of good tillage land. The most of the
surface soil is so intermixed with comminuted quartz, or
silicious sand, that cranberries grow in the grass fields. The
cultivation of this staple crop is attracting more and more
attention. The town, in 1872, constructed fish ways to Pat-
ten's ponds, and this season will stock the ponds with ale wives
and salmon. Here, are two flourishing Farmer's Clubs.
The hard times have driven the farmers to the muscle-bed.
Bless the hard times for that.
A recent discovery of quartz, which if in quantit}'^, and as
pure as the specimens, is valuable for glass-making or porce-
lain ware.
On the " Toddy " pond road occurs what Prof. Gunning
calls a "strange behavior of granite," similar to, but not on
so grand a scale as in Orland.
"Over miles of surface there lay, a few years ago, a bleak
profusion of granite boulders. To-day these boulders are seen
in every stage of ruin. Here and there is a mound of gravel,
all that remains of a once great boulder, while here and there
is a boulder just smitten with decay. We have found the
decay not a chemical rot, but a mechanical disintegration.
The granite was badly made, and the fate which awaits all
dishonesty has at last overtaken these boulders.
But the mystery is that these rocks should have stood there
so many thousand years — perhaps 200,000 (since the Glacial
Period) — all firm and sound, and then, all at once, about
twenty years ago, taken it into their old flinty heads to
tumble down into gravel !"
If the tourist will drive on a few miles beyond this " world
rot," into the Dedham stage road, he can see the most
wonderful display of boulders on the continent. Immense
boulders lie in wild confusion, boulder on boulder,
" The fragments of an earlier world."
1
J
HANCOCK COUNTY. 87
117. Sullivan, established on a rock, is 13 miles S. E.
of Ellsworth. It has long been noted for its immense deposits
of granite or sienite, and for the first-class coasters con-
structed in its ship yards, as well.
The chief industry of the town centres in its inexhaustible
beds of granite, and such is the grooving demand for "build-
ing stone," that long before the next centennial, quarrying
will subordinate to itself all the other industries of the place,
and will become the sole article of export. The granite,
w^hich contains veins of beautiful feldspar green, is of superior
quality, splits well, may be wrought into almost any shape,
and is suitable for any kind of building.
At Waukeag Neck, and at East Sullivan, are good farming
lands, and some good farms, which, with the promise of a
home market at the quarries, can be worked with profit.
Every man who is not a stone-cutter should be a keeper of
sheep, for the finger of Nature has here written "graze, and
not plow."
Bridging the "Falls," a future, if not a present need, is not
a matter of doubt, but of time only ; for the history of pro-
gress shows that individual and municipal rights always suc-
cumb to public demands.
118. Trenton. — This peninsula abuts Ellsworth on the
south ; extends to and includes Mt. Desert Narrows. Farm-
ing here, as in the other of our sea-washed towns, is a second-
ary vocation. The soil, and the "lay of the land" on the
western slope of Jordan's river, closely resembles that of the
upper St. John's. Some of the best farms are without road-
side fences.
Monroe Young, the Mayor of Ellsworth, has a paradise
of a farm. It will well repay one to visit this farm, just
before haying, to see what muscle-bed will do for an old,
worn-out grass field, and how money can be made by farming.
But few farms can be found in the county, or in the State,
with fewer dead weights to endanger the "just poise of the
beam." H. S. Trevett, a reading farmer, and who does not
88 HANCOCK COUNTY.
go in for paper covers, says, " we have several who live ex-
clusively by farming."
At Oak Point are evidences of a settlement anterior to his-
toric data. Trenton occupies a central position, very nearly
within the great mica schist basin of the county, and litliolog-
ically considered, is not within the true coal or lime forma-
tion. This basin is supposed to be of Cambrian age.
A well located cheese factory would soon double the value
of the grass and grazing lands of Trenton, while the growing
of potatoes for shipment can be made a good paying business.
119. Tremont. — This " tri-mountain portion of the Desert
Isles," is situated 25 miles south of Ellsworth. Like most of
our maritime towns, its "staff of life" is found in the salt
sea. In the early settlement of the island, Bass Harbor was a
favorite resort of bass. Dog mountain has been carefully
prospected, with spade and pick, for money hid by Captain
Kidd. The eastern side of the "Lovers' Scalp" mountain
has an almost perpendicular descent of 900 feet to the sur-
face of Somes' Sound. The sea-wall at South West Harbor,
which, after an off the coast storm is often 15 feet high, is one
of the most interesting of those peculiar embankments found
along the coast.
Among the not to be coveted municipal appendages of
Tremont, is its guild of indigents, upon Lunt's Long Island,
a fruitful field whereupon the overseers of the poor can
"shine .uood deeds in a naughty world."
120. Verona. — This " mountain in the sea," is situated just
below Bucksport, and between Penobscot and Eastern rivers.
The soil is hard and rocky. The chief industry is weir-fishing,
and duiing the " run of the salmon " there is but little of sleep
or slumber for the nocturnal weir-men.
Says Hon. A. H. Whitmore, "we have no thoroughbred
stock. For sheep, our island affords an excellent range.
Within a few years a number of apple orchards have been
planted, mostly New York trees, and are doing well. The
varieties, mainly, are Eed Astrachan, Duchess of Oldenburg,
and Talman's Sweet."
HANCOCK COUNTY. gg-
This, the earliest settled locality on the Penobscot above
Belfast, and known for more than fifty years as Whitmore's,
or as Orphan Island, has grown and shipped more cords of
hard wood per acre than any other town in the county.
121. Waltham, on the eastern bank of Union river, is 11
miles fi'om Ellsworth. It has a natural apple orchard soil,
and a soil peculiarly fitted for potatoes. For orcharding, no
locality in the county excels that of " Timber Brook Ridge."
Here is another of those interesting caves. Three of its
rooms have been explored, the larger of the three being 15
feet by 20. "Cave Hill" is without doubt out of the same
family as the mountains in Orlaud, and of the same geological
age and formation.
The northeastern portion of Waltham is a confusion of
gigantic boulders. Marine shells, and petrified forms of
plants and animals, are frequently turned up by the plow.
Not many centuries gone by, the pretty village flat, at Hast-
ing's bridge, was a lake bottom. The evidences are legibly
written there.
Webb's brook is one of the very best of "up river" cheese
factory sites, which the farmers of that vicinity cannot afford
to let longer go unimproved.
122. The "Separation." — On the fourth Monday of July,
1819, the inhabitants of the District of Maine voted to be-
come an independent State. It was enacted b}'^ Massachu-
setts, that not less than a majority vote of 1,500 would be
deemed as an expression in favor of separation.
The whole number of votes was 4,709
For separation 3,315
Against separation 1,394
The whole number of votes in Hancock County was 1,518.
For separation 820
Against separation 7G1
From Sullivan and Mariaville plantation no returns were
made. Castine, Brooksville and Sedgwick, each gave a major
vote against separation.
. 7
90
HANCOCK COUNTY.
In the Convention which convened at Portland, Oct. 11th,
1819, to frame a Constitution, Hancock county was repre-
sented as follows :
Deer Isle, by Ignatus Haskell and Asa Green.
Bluehill, by Andrew Witham.
Trenton, by Peter Haynes.
Sullivan, by George Hinman.
Gouldsborough, by Samuel Davis.
Bucksport, by Samuel Little.
Eden, by Nicholas Thomas, Jr.
Orland, by Horatio Mason.
Ellsworth, by Mark Shepard.
Castine, by William Abbott.
Surry, by Leonard Jarvis.
There being defects in the returns from Ellsworth, Orland
and Gouldsborough, the delegates therefrom were admitted
by a resolve only.
Of the several Committees, the county was represented as
follows :
" On Style and Title of the New State," Abbott of Castine.
"To make application to Congress," Jarvis of Surry.
The votes given by the towns now embraced within the
county, for or against the Constitution, submitted by the
Convention, were
Bluehill, Yes, 9,
No, 37.
Brooksville, '
« 29,
" 11.
Castine, '
' 29,
" 4.
Deer Isle, '
' 22,
" 1.
Ellsworth, '
' 24,
" 1.
Gouldsborough, '
' 14,
«' 00.
Orland, '
' 22,
«« 00.
Penobscot, '
' 32,
" 00.
Sedgwick, '
' 23,
♦' 24.
Sullivan, *
' 29,
" 1.
Surry,
' 30,
" 00.
The returns from Eden and from Trenton were received
too late, and were rejected ; those from Bucksport omitted
to give the vote.
HANCOCK COUNTY. 91
The first officers of Hancock County were : Judges of
Common Pleas Court, Paul D. Sargent of Sullivan, Oliver
Parker of Penobscot ; Sheriff, Richard Hunnewell ; Register
of Deeds, William Webber; Judge of Probate, Paul D. Sar-
gent ; Register of Probate, Jonathan Eddy, Penobscot.
In 1790, the county was divided into two commercial dis-
tricts, known as the Penobscot and the Frenchman's Bay
Districts. John Lee was appointed Collector for the first,
and Meltiah Jordan for the second. Deer Isle and Bluehill
were made ports of delivery.
If the survey which I now submit, shall have the tendency
to give a swifter growth to any industry of the county, I
shall not have written in vain. How far its statistics and
suggestions may aid in accomplishing this desirable end, I
leave to the public and the future to decide.
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