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/"LONDON COUNTY COUNCIL )
SURVEY OF LONDON
ISSUED BY THE JOINT PUBLISHING COMMITTEE
REPRESENTING THE LONDON COUNTY COUNCIL
AND THE LONDON SURVEY COMMITTEE
UNDER THE GENERAL EDITORSHIP OF
SIR GEORGE GATER (for the Council)
WALTER H. GODFREY (for the Survey Committee)
VOLUME XX
TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
(THE PARISH OF ST. MARTIN-IN-THE- FIELDS, PART III)
PUBLISHED BY THE LONDON COUNTY COUNCIL
THE COUNTY HALL, LONDON, S.E.i
1940
PREVIOUS VOLUMES OF THE "SURVEY OF
LONDON"
I. PARISH OF BROMLEY-BY-BOW. (Out of print)
II. PARISH OF CHELSEA. PART I. {Out of print.)
III. PARISH OF ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. PART I (LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS).
21*.
IV. PARISH OF CHELSEA. PART II. 21s.
V. PARISH OF ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS. PART II. 21/.
VI. PARISH OF HAMMERSMITH. 21s.
VII. PARISH OF CHELSEA. PART III (THE OLD CHURCH). 21s.
VIII. PARISH OF ST. LEONARD, SHOREDITCH. 42/.
IX. PARISH OF ST. HELEN, BISHOPSGATE. PART I. \is.
X. PARISH OF ST. MARGARET, WESTMINSTER. PART I. 42/.
XI. PARISH OF CHELSEA. PART IV (THE ROYAL HOSPITAL). 42/.
XII. PARISH OF ALL HALLOWS BARKING-BY-THE-TOWER. PART I (THE
PARISH CHURCH). ^s.kd.
XIII. PARISH OF ST. MARGARET, WESTMINSTER. PART II (NEIGHBOUR-
HOOD OF WHITEHALL, VOL. I). 52*. 6d.
XIV. PARISH OF ST. MARGARET, WESTMINSTER. PART III (NEIGHBOUR-
HOOD OF WHITEHALL, VOL. II). 52/. 6d.
XV. PARISH OF ALL HALLOWS BARKING-BY-THE-TOWER. PART II. 42/.
XVI. CHARING CROSS (PARISH OF ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS, PART I).
5 2s. 6d.
XVII. THE VILLAGE OF HIGHGATE (PARISH OF ST. PANCRAS, PART I). 21*.
XVIII. THE STRAND (PARISH OF ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS, PART II). 21/.
XIX. OLD ST. PANCRAS AND KENTISH TOWN (PARISH OF ST. PANCRAS,
PART II). 2 1 s.
.
PARI5H BOUNDARY
■ LINE OF STREETS LAID OUT SINCE 1874
TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND NEIGH-
BOURHOOD (THE PARISH OF ST.
MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS, PART III),
BEING THE TWENTIETH VOLUME
OF THE SURVEY OF LONDON, BY
SIR GEORGE GATER, CM.G, D.S.O.,
CLERK OF THE COUNCIL, AND F. R.
HIORNS, F.S.A., F.R.I.B.A.
JOINT PUBLISHING COMMITTEE REPRESENTING THE LONDON
COUNTY COUNCIL AND THE LONDON SURVEY COMMITTEE
Chairman
J. H. MacDONNELL
Vice-Chairman
WALTER H. GODFREY
Members appointed by the Council
CAPTAIN FRANCIS W. BEECH SIR HAROLD KENYON
ERIC G. M. FLETCHER J. H. MacDONNELL
Members appointed by the London Survey Committee
H. W. FINCHAM WALTER H. GODFREY
PERCY W. LOVELL
IV
MEMBERS OF THE LONDON SURVEY COMMITTEE
President
The Rt. Hon. the EARL OF CRAWFORD AND BALCARRES, P.C., K.T., F.S.A.
The Society of Antiquaries
of London.
The Royal Institute of
British Architects.
The Architectural Associa-
tion.
The Incorporated Associa-
tion of Architects and
Surveyors.
C. R. Ashbee, M.A.
The Athen^um.
Miss Helen Barlow.
The Late P. A. Bayman.
Boylston A. Beal.
Hugh Beaver.
R. A. Bell.
Walter G. Bell, F.S.A.
The Birmingham Public
Library.
The Bishopgate Institute.
Alfred C. Bossom, M.P.,
F.R.I.B.A.
The Brentford and Chis-
wick Public Libraries.
Arthur Brown.
The University of Cali-
fornia.
Moir Carnegie.
The Worshipful Company
of Carpenters.
H. J. Chetwood, F.R.I.B.A.
The Church House
Library.
Rev. P. B. Clayton, F.S.A.
The Columbia University.
Capt. E. E. Colquhoun.
The Constitutional Club.
W. W. Cordingley.
The Courtauld Institute
of Art.
Captain A. C. Crawfurd.
Honorary Members and Subscribers
The Most Hon. The
Marquess of Crewe,
K.G.
Walter E. Cross, F.I.A.A.,
F.R.I.B.A.
The Croydon Public
Library.
Miss E. Jeffries Davis,
F.S.A.
Major W. W. Dove, F.S.A.
Eustace Erlebach.
Richard L. Giveen.
The Goldsmiths' Library,
University of London.
The Guildhall Library.
Richard Walden Hale.
E. Stanley Hall, P.R.I.B.A.
Richard Harriss,
A.R.I.B.A.
The Institute of
Historical Research.
Mrs. Alderson Horne.
W. T. Hugo.
Constant Huntington.
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of
Iveagh, K.P., G.C.V.O.,
F.R.S.
Mrs. King Farlow.
F. A. Konig.
The Hon. Lady Lawrence.
G. C. Lawson.
Miss Pauline Leftwich.
The Rt. Hon. The Viscount
Leverhulme.
The London Library.
The London and Middlesex
Archaeological Society.
The London School of
Economics.
The Hon. Mr. Justice Lort-
Williams, K.C.
Gilbert H. Lovegrove,
F.R.I.B.A.
Mary Countess of Love-
lace.
J. L'Estrange Mackie,
A.I.A.A.
The Manchester Public
Library.
The Manchester Society
of Architects.
Leonard Morgan May,
F.S.A.
The Metropolitan Public
Gardens Association.
G. Vaughan Morgan.
John Murray, F.R.I.B.A.,
F.S.I.
Lt.-Col. H. L. Nathan.
The Newberry Library,
Chicago.
The New York Library.
Richard Nicholson.
R. C. Norman.
The Oxford and Cambridge
Club.
The Free Library of
Philadelphia.
The Carnegie Library,
Pittsburgh.
Sir D'Arcy Power.
Arnold Danvers Power.
The Public Record Office.
Quatuor Coronati Lodge.
Colin E. Reader.
The Reform Club.
Cecil Harold Ridge.
Harold A. Rutt.
The John Rylands Library.
Frederick Simms.
G. C. Simpson.
The Sion College.
Honorary Members and Subscribers — continued
Mrs. Vernon Smith.
The Southport Public
Library.
R. T. D. Stoneham.
The University of Toronto.
Hamilton H. Turner.
The Library, University
College.
The Victoria and Albert
Museum.
Noel P. W. Viner-Brady,
F.S.A.
Lewis Huth Walters.
The Library of Congress,
Washington.
The West Ham Public
Library.
Miss M. J. Wilde.
H.M. Office of Works.
T. Aubrey Bailey.
Oswald Barron, F.S.A.
W. W. Begley, F.R.Hist.S.,
L.R.I.B.A.
J. W. Bloe, O.B.E., F.S.A.
W. W. Braines, B.A.(Lond.)
A. E. Bullock, A.R.I.B.A.
C. J. P. Cave, F.S.A.
G. H. Chettle, F.S.A.
A. W. Clapham, F.B.A.,
C.B.E., P.S.A.
The Rev. E. E. Dorling,
F.S.A.
J. J. Edmunds.
H. W. Fincham, F.S.A.
Thomas F. Ford, F.R.I.B.A.
G. Gordon Godfrey.
Active Members
Mrs. Ernest Godman.
Philip S. Hudson,
A.R.I.B.A.
W. E. Field Johns,
A.R.I.B.A.
B. R. Leftwich, M.B.E.,
F.R.Hist.S., F.S.A.
W. McB. Marcham.
A. R. Martin, F.S.A.
E. C. NlSBET.
Francis W. Reader.
Francis R. Taylor,
L.R.I.B.A.
T. O. Thirtle, A.R.I.B.A.
A. H. Thomas, F.S.A.,
LL.D.
George Trotman,
L.R.I.B.A.
R. E. Mortimer Wheeler,
M.C., D.Litt., F.S.A.
Edward Yates, F.S.A.
Walter H. Godfrey, F.S.A.,
F.R.I.B.A., Editor for the
Committee.
Sir Geoffrey Romaine Cal-
lender, F.S.A., Hon.
Treasurer of the Com-
mittee.
Percy W. Lovell, B.A.,
A.R.I.B.A., F.S.A.,
Secretary of the Committee.
VI
CONTENTS
FRONTISPIECE page
GENERAL TITLE PAGE ------_____
PREVIOUS VOLUMES OF "THE SURVEY OF LONDON" - - -
SPECIAL TITLE PAGE -_-_-______
MEMBERS OF THE JOINT PUBLISHING COMMITTEE - - - iv
MEMBERS OF THE SURVEY COMMITTEE ------ v
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES --------- ix
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT --------- xvi
HERALDIC ILLUSTRATIONS- --------- xviii
PREFACE -------------- xx
THE SURVEY OF TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
Introduction -------------
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
Chapter
The Mews, the Golden Cross, etc. (The Site of Trafalgar
Square and the National Gallery) -----
7
19
55
Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery - - -
The Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields - - - —
The Vestry Hall, Vicarage and Church Schools - -
The East Side of Trafalgar Square (including Charing
Cross Hospital) — — — — — — — — — 56
Spring Gardens ______--- 58
Old County Hall, including Nos. 10, 12 and 14, Spring
Gardens (the Site of Berkeley House and the Great
Exhibition Room) -------- 66
- - 69
77
Carlton House ____ — — —
Carlton House Terrace and Carlton Gardens -
vn
Chapter 10. Pall Mall East _ - - -
Chapter n. Suffolk Street and Suffolk Place
Chapter 12. The Haymarket — — — -
Chapter 13. Panton Street and Oxendon Street
Chapter 14. Whitcomb Street - — — —
Chapter 15. St. Martin's Street - - -
Chapter 16. Orange Street - — — — -
Chapter 17. Hemmings Row and Castle Street
Chapter 18. St. Martin's Lane - — — —
Chapter 19. New Street - - - - -
Chapter 20. Long Acre - - - - —
Appendix A. Vicars of St. Martin-in-the-Fields
References __ — — — — — —
Index - - - . — — - - — -
PAGE
88
89
95
101
104
106
109
112
"5
123
125
128
129
i33
vm
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES
COLOURED PLATES
Frontispiece. Bedfordbury in 1873
(i) (Facing p. 1) No. 96, St. Martin's Lane,
c. 1830 - - - - - - -
(ii) (Facing p. 66) Berkeley House, Spring
Gardens in 1859 - - - -
(iii) (Facing p. 118) May's Buildings, St.
Martin's Lane in 1870 - - — —
PLATE
1. Extract from Morden and Lea's map (1682)
2. Plan of the Royal Mews at Charing Cross,
1796 -------
3. (a) Old Barracks, Charing Cross, c. 18 15;
(b) the new opening to St. Martin's
Church (c. 1830) - - - - -
From a watercolour drawing by F.
Shepherd in the Council's collec-
tion.
From a watercolour drawing by
C. J. Richardson in the Council's
collection.
From a watercolour drawing by T. H.
Shepherd in the Council's collec-
tion.
From a watercolour drawing by J. T.
Wilson in the Council's collection.
From the Council's collection.
From plan in the possession of H.M.
Commissioners of Crown Lands.
4. (a) The Mews in 1794; (b) The Golden
Cross, Charing Cross, c. 1820— - -
(a) From a photograph of a water-
colour drawing by W. Hunt; (b)
From an engraving of a drawing by
T. H. Shepherd, both in the
Council's collection.
(a) From an engraving by T. Malton
in the Council's collection; (b)
From a watercolour drawing in
the Westminster Public Library.
5. National Gallery, Trafalgar Square. Eleva-
tion _______ From an engraving in the Council's
collection.
6. William Railton's design for the Nelson
Monument ______ From an engraving in the Council's
collection.
7. (a) Statue of George IV, Trafalgar Square; \
(b) One of the lions at the base of the J Photographs.
Nelson Monument — — — — — )
8. The Old Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields,
c. 1720, "The South Prospect" - - From an engraving by G. Vertue in
the Council's collection.
IX
PLATE
9. The Old Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields,
c. 1720. "The West Prospect" -
10. Gibbs' design for circular church: (a) Eleva-
tion ; (b) Plan ------
11. St. Martin's Church. Plan and south
elevation
12. Perspective drawing of St. Martin's Church
13. Portrait of James Gibbs - - - -
14. St. Martin's Church from churchyard, show-
ing southern end of St. Martin's Lane, c.
1820 -------
From an engraving by G. Vertue in
the Council's collection.
From Gibbs' A Book of Architecture.
Measured drawing.
From the watercolour drawing by
James Gibbs in the Westminster
Public Library.
From the painting by William Hog-
arth in the vestry hall.
From a watercolour drawing by
W. H. Hunt in the possession of
Mr. Thomas Girtin.
15. St. Martin's Church, looking south-east - Photograph.
16. St. Martin's Church: plans, elevation and
section of steeple ----- Measured drawing by D. W. Har-
rington and D. N. Mackintosh.
17. St. Martin's Church: elevation and section
of east end ___--_ Measured drawing.
18. St. Martin's Church: (a) Looking north-
west; (b) Portico ----- Photographs.
19. St. Martin's Church. Interior looking east - Photograph.
20. St. Martin's Church. West elevation - - Measured drawing.
21. St. Martin's Church: (a) Interior looking
west; (b) Pulpit ___-- Photographs.
22. St. Martin's Church. Organ now in St.
Mary's Church, Wotton-under-Edge - Photographs reproduced by per-
mission of the Cotswold Publish-
ing Co.
Measured drawing.
Measured drawing.
23. St. Martin's Church; the font - - -
24. St. Martin's Church; the pulpit - - -
25. Hogarth's preliminary drawings for No. 2 of
the series Industry and Idleness — — -
26. St. Martin's Church: (a) Oak staircase lead-
ing to galleries ; (b) Crypt - - -
27. St. Martin's Church: (a) Bust of James
Gibbs by Rysbrach; (b) Font — - —
28. Monuments in St. Martin's crypt: (a) Edith
Bilson, 1 651; (b) Elizabeth Macdowall,
1670 _______
29. (a) Jane Jackson, 1670; {b) Johanna Miller,
1673 _______
30. Margaret White, 1687 - - - -
From drawings in the British
Museum.
Photographs.
Photographs.
Photographs.
Photographs. [graph.
(a) Measured drawing; (b) Photo-
PLATE
3«-
32.
33-
34-
35-
36.
37-
38-
39-
(a) Colonel Thomas Fraser, 1756; (b) Ben-
jamin Colinge, 1 700 - Photographs.
(a) Sir Theodore Mayerne ; (b) Roundel with
arms and crest ------ Photographs.
St. Martin's Church plate, on exhibition at
the London Museum - Photograph.
(a) St. Martin's Place, east side; (b) St.
Martin's churchyard, north side, showing
vestry hall and school — — — — Photographs.
Old premises south of St. Martin's Church,
1830 — - - - - - - From a pencil drawing in the Coun-
cil's collection.
(a) Corner of Adelaide Street and Chandos
Street in 1906; (b) Golden Cross Hotel,
Strand, in 1930 - - - - - Photographs.
(a) Corner of King William Street and Ade-
laide Street in 1930; (b) Nos. 448 and
449, Strand, facing south west, in 1930 - Photographs.
(a) Charing Cross Hospital in 1939. Eleva-
tion to Strand and Agar Street; (b) Mor-
ley's Hotel in 1920- - - - - Photographs.
St. Matthew's Chapel, Spring Gardens: (a)
Exterior in 1903; (b) Interior in 1886 - (a) Photograph; (b) From a drawing
by J. P. Emslie preserved at the
Admiralty.
40. (a) New Street, Spring Gardens in 1881;
(b) Spring Garden Terrace in 188 1 -
41. John Drummond's House, New Street,
Spring Gardens, in 1795 — — —
42. No. 18, Spring Gardens: (a) Exterior in
1 903 ; (b) Garden front - - - -
43. Spring Gardens: (a) South-west side in 1886;
(b) Interior of No. 16 in 1903- - -
44. Spring Gardens in 1903: (a) No. 28, first
floor landing; (J?) No. 30, front room on
first floor -------
45'. Spring Gardens in 1 903 : (a) Staircase to No.
16; (b) Nos. 34-28
46. Buildings on west side of Spring Gardens:
elevation and plan -
From watercolour drawings, by J. P.
Emslie preserved at the Admiralty.
From a watercolour drawing in the
Council's collection.
(a) Photograph; (b) from water-
colour drawing preserved at the
Admiralty.
(a) From a watercolour drawing by
J. P. Emslie preserved at the
Admiralty; (b) Photograph.
Photographs.
- - - - Photographs.
47. Staircase details from Spring Gardens
From a drawing in the possession of
H.M. Office of Works.
Measured drawings.
XI
PLATE
48. Premises adjoining London County Council
Offices, Spring Gardens — — — —
49. (a) Berkeley House, garden front; (b) Wig-
ley's rooms, Spring Gardens — — —
Measured drawing.
(a) From watercolour drawing by
T. H. Shepherd in the Council's
collection; (b) from a print in the
Council's collection.
50. Old County Hall, Spring Gardens: (a) Ex-
terior in 1939; (b) Council chamber in
xgcjo _____-- Photographs.
5 1 . Offices of the London County Council, Spring
Gardens, ground floor plan - - - From plan in the Council's collection.
52. (a) Offices of the Metropolitan Board of
Works, principal floor; (b) Offices of
the London County Council, first floor
p]an ________ From plans in the Council's collec-
tion.
53. Part of Kip's view of London and Westmin-
ster, 17 10 - - - - - - From the Council's collection.
54. Carlton House, entrance lodge from St.
James's Park — • — - - — - From a watercolour drawing in the
library at Windsor Castle.
55. Carlton House plans: (a) 1784; (b) 1794 From plans in the library at Windsor
Castle.
56. Carlton House, entrance from Pall Mall:
(a) 1760; (b) 1790 - - - - From drawings in the Crace collec-
tion at the British Museum.
57. Carlton House, garden front: (a) 1788; (b)
1794 - - - - - - - (a) From a watercolour drawing by
W. Capon in the Westminster
Public Library; (b) from an ink
and wash drawing in the Crace
Collection at the British Museum.
58. Carlton House, the grand staircase - - From a wash drawing by Henry
Holland in the library at Windsor
Castle.
59. Carlton House, new front to Pall Mall
erected by Holland - - - —
60. Carlton House, elevation to Pall Mall and
detail of screen to courtyard - - -
61. Carlton House, portico facing Pall Mall -
62. Plan of Carlton House in 1 8 1 3 - - -
(a) From an ink and wash drawing
by Henry Holland; (F) from an
aquatint (No. 6 in Ackermann's
Repository), both in the Council's
collection.
From an ink and wash drawing in
the library at Windsor Castle.
From Pyne's History of Carlton House.
From Pugin and Britton's Public
Buildings of London.
xn
PLATE
63-
64.
6S.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
7i-
72.
73-
74-
IS-
76.
77-
78.
79-
80.
Carlton House: (a) Entrance hall; (b)
Crimson drawing room - - - -
Carlton House, the conservatory — — —
Plan showing the disposition of the ground
lately occupied by Carlton Palace and
gardens, 1828- - - - - -
From Pyne's History of Car/ton House.
From Pyne's History of Carlton House.
From a plan in the possession of
H.M. Commissioners of Crown
Lands.
Nos. 19, 20 and 21, Carlton House Terrace From a plan in the Council's collec-
tion.
Carlton House Terrace in 1907. West block
facing the Mall ----- Photograph.
Carlton House Terrace in 1907. East block
facing the Mall - Photograph.
Carlton House Terrace, view behind colon-
nade: id) at balcony level; (b) at terrace
level ____--- Photographs.
Duke of York's column - - - - (a) From a drawing by J. Maxwell
Scott, A.R.I.B.A. ; (b) photograph.
Carlton House Terrace : (a) No. 4 ; (b) Cor-
ner of Carlton Gardens, looking east - Photographs.
Carlton Gardens: (a) No. 1; (b) No. 2 - Photographs.
Carlton House Terrace : (a) No. 4, back room
on ground floor; (J?) No. 9, original balus-
trading to landing on first floor - - Photographs.
No. 1, Carlton House Terrace: (a) Dining
room on first floor; (b) Lounge on first
floor _____-- Photographs.
No. 1, Carlton House Terrace: (a) En-
trance hall ; (b) Staircase and hall - - Photographs.
No. 4, Carlton Gardens, marble mantelpiece
now at the Victoria and Albert Museum Photograph.
No. 7, Carlton House Terrace : (a) Original
mantelpiece on second floor; (b) staircase
and hall ------- Photographs.
John Nash's plan for the re-development of
Pall Mall East, the Haymarket and Suf-
folk Street ____-- From the Report from the Select Com-
mittee on Crown Leases, 1829.
Statue of George III, Pall Mall East - - Photograph.
(a) Pall Mall East; (i) College of Physicians
in 1828- - - - — — - (a) From a watercolour drawing by
T. H. Shepherd; (b) from an
engraving from a drawing by T. H.
Shepherd, both in the Council's
collection.
xiu
PLATE
8 1 . Suffolk Street, Royal Society of British
Artists -------
82. Suffolk Street: (a) East side in 1829; (b)
North side of Suffolk Place - - -
83-
84.
85.
(a) South-west corner of Suffolk Street in 1 9 1 1 ;
{b) North-west corner of Suffolk Place in
19 1 1— -------
Suffolk Street, northern end - - -
The old Haymarket Theatre: (a) Exterior
in 1803; Interior in 1807 - - -
Photograph.
(a) From an engraving of a drawing
by T. H. Shepherd in the Council's
collection; (b) photograph.
Photographs.
Photograph.
(a) From pencil drawing by W.
Capon; (b) from engraving, both
in the Council's collection.
86. The new Haymarket Theatre: (a) in 1826; (a) From an engraving by Havell in
(b) in 1939 ------ the Council's collection;
(b) photograph.
87. Interior of the Haymarket Theatre in 1821 From an engraving by R. Wilkinson
in the Council's collection.
88. (a) Suffolk Street front of the Haymarket
Theatre; (b) No. 25, Haymarket in 191 1 Photographs.
89. The Haymarket: (a) No. 18 in 191 1; (b)
No. 34 in 1906 - - - - - Photographs.
90. No. 34, Haymarket, shop front - - - Photograph.
91. No. 34, Haymarket, front of cast lead cistern Photograph.
92. No. 34, Haymarket, mantelpiece in front
room on first floor ----- Photograph.
93. No. 34, Haymarket, interior of shop: (a)
Looking towards street; (J>) Showing
screen ------- Photographs.
94. (a) Cockspur Street showing entrance to
Whitcomb Street, c. 1823; (b) Nos. 28-
46, Whitcomb Street in 1886- - - (a) From drawing by W. Capon in
the Westminster Public Library;
(b) from watercolour drawing by
Calvert in the Council's collection.
95. Whitcomb Street: (a) the White Hart Inn
in 1 881; (b) No. 38, Johnson's Stable
Yard, in 1886- - - - - - From watercolour drawings in the
Council's collection.
96. (a) Nos. 14-18, Whitcomb Street; (b) and
(c) Mantelpieces from No. 35, St. Mar-
tin's Street _--___ Photographs.
97. James Street (now Orange Street) : (a) Tennis
court; (b) Premises adjoining tennis
court __--___ From watercolour drawings by T. H.
Shepherd in the Council's collection.
XIV
98. Orange Street Chapel : (a) Exterior in 1 906 ;
(b) Interior in 1913 - - -
99. (a) Archbishop Tenison's Library and
School in Castle Street, Leicester Square
in 1850; (b) South side of Cecil Court in
1883 -------
1 00. Hemmings Row : (a) Corner of Castle Street ;
(b) Looking towards Chandos Street in
1873 -------
101. Nos. 53-SSy Castle Street -
102. Old Slaughter's Coffee House, St. Martin's
Lane ____-- —
103. St. Martin's Court in 1881: (a) Looking
east; (b) Looking west - - - -
104. No. 31, St. Martin's Lane, interior of front
room on first floor — — — — —
105. No. 31, St. Martin's Lane, interior details
106. (a) No. 31, St. Martin's Lane; (b) Little
May's Buildings in 1872 _ _ _
107. St. Martin's Lane: (a) Elevation to Nos. 42,
43 and 44; (b) No. 43 in 1 87 1
108. (a) Goodwin's Court, St. Martin's Lane;
(b) Langley Court, Long Acre - -
109. New Street: (a) Nos. 4 and 5; (b) No. 9
no. Nos. 16-20, Long Acre - - - -
- Photographs.
(a) From a watercolour drawing by
T. H. Shepherd in the Crace Col-
lection at the British Museum;
(J?) from a watercolour by J. P.
Emslie in the Council's collection.
(a) From a watercolour drawing by
T. H. Shepherd in the Westmin-
ster Public Library; (b) from a
watercolour drawing by F. Shep-
herd in the Council's collection.
From a watercolour drawing by
Appleton in the Council's collec-
tion.
From a watercolour drawing by
T. H. Shepherd in the Westmin-
ster Public Library.
From watercolour drawings by J. P.
Emslie in the Council's collection.
Measured drawing.
Measured drawings.
(a) Photograph; (b) from water-
colour drawing by F. Shepherd in
in the Council's collection.
(a) Measured drawing; (b) from a
watercolour drawing by C. J.
Richardson in the Council's col-
lection.
Photographs.
Photographs.
Photograph.
xv
ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT
PAGE
1. Extract from plan in the Public Record Office drawn in 1585 to illustrate a
lawsuit, as to the ownership of Gelding's Close ------ 2
2. Swan Close. Copy of plan in the possession of the Marquess of Salisbury - 4
3. Plan showing the property claimed by Bethlem Hospital in 1649. From plan
in the possession of the hospital reproduced in Report 32, Part 6, of the
Commissioners on Charities, 1837 - - - - - - - - n
4. Plan of the premises of the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, c. 1830. Copied
from plan in the possession of H.M. Office of Works - - - - - 13
5. Old houses on the west side of St. Martin's Lane. Reproduced from drawing
by George Scharf in the Council's collection - - - - - - 14
6. Plan of the National Gallery as first erected. ------- \S
7. The plan of [old] St. Martin's Church. From an engraving by G. Vertue in
the Council's collection __________
8. Sketch of whipping post in church crypt --------
9. Font rails in St. Martin's Church ---------
10. Communion rails in St. Martin's Church - -------
1 1 . Detail of stair balustrading in St. Martin's Church ------
12. Key plan showing position of monuments and wall tablets in the crypt of St.
Martin's Church ------------
13. Panels with shields of arms from monument to Theodore Mayerne - - -
14. Emblem from Tompson monument - ________
15. Plan of Spring Garden in 1730. From plan in the possession of H.M. Crown
Lands Office- ------------ 61
1 6. Plan of Spring Garden in 1778. From plan in the possession of H.M. Com-
missioners of Crown Lands -------- --62
17. Ground and first floor plans of No. 28, Spring Gardens. From plans in the
possession of H.M. Office of Works --------63
18. Sketch of St. Matthew's Chapel _________ 64
19. Plan of St. Matthew's Chapel, Spring Gardens ______ 65
20. PlanofNos. 10 and 12, Spring Gardens _-- — ----68
21. Extract from T. Porter's map view of London and Westminster, c. 1660 - 69
22. Plan of the Wilderness. From plan in the possession of H.M. Crown Lands
Office --------___--- 71
23. Plan showing proposed alterations at Carlton House, 1761. From plan in the
Crace Collection, British Museum ________ 72
24. Plan of Carlton House in 1794. From plan preserved at Windsor Castle - 73
25. Plan showing the riding stables of Carlton House, c. 1850. From plan in
possession of H.M. Commissioners of Crown Lands - - - - - 78
xvi
PAGE
26. Ground plan for five houses on Carlton House Terrace. From plan in posses-
sion of H.M. Commissioners of Crown Lands — — — — — — 79
27. Plans of No. 1 , Suffolk Place ----------91
28. Plans of Nos. 3, 4 and 5, Suffolk Place -------- 92
29. No. 6, Suffolk Street _____-_---_ 93
30. Elevation of three houses in Suffolk Street. From drawing in possession of
H.M. Crown Lands Office ----------94
31. Plans of Nos. 33 and 34, Haymarket -------- 97
32. Staircase details from No. 35, St. Martin's Street ------ 106
22- Plans of No. 35, St. Martin's Street ________ IOy
34. Detail of marble mantelpiece from No. 35, St. Martin's Street - - - 108
3$. James Street date tablet ----------- 109
36. Orange Street date tablet - - - - - - - - - - — I IO
37. Extract from the "Agas" view - - - - - — - - -115
38. Panelled ceiling to first floor, No. 31, St. Martin's Lane - - - - -117
39. May's Buildings date tablet - — - - - - - - - -118
40. Plan of No. 44, St. Martin's Lane ------ -118
41. Plan of No. 55, St. Martin's Lane - - - - - - - - -119
42. Plan of No. 56, St. Martin's Lane - - - - - - - - -119
43. Plan of Chippendale's premises in St. Martin's Lane. From a plan in the
possession of the Sun Insurance Office Ltd. — - - - - — — 120
44. No. 67, St. Martin's Lane - - - - - - - - - -121
xvn
HERALDIC ILLUSTRATIONS
BERKELEY, EARL OF
BERKELEY - -
BETHLEM HOSPITAL- - -
BOYLE, LORD CARLETON
CECIL, EARL OF SALISBURY -
COVENTRY
CURZON, LORD CURZON - -
HOWARD, EARL OF SUFFOLK
AND BERKSHIRE - - -
KYME ______
LANCASTER OF STOCKBRIDGE
MAYNARD - - - - -
MERCERS OF LONDON, WOR-
SHIPFUL COMPANY OF
MINTERNE OF BATCOMBE
XVlll
Gules a cheveron between ten crosses jormy
argent, (p. 66)
Argent two bars sable with a label gules and a
chief azure with a star of sixteen rays or charged
with a roundel argent with a cross gules thereon
between a human skull in a cup on the dexter
side and a basket of wastel cakes on the sinister
side therein all or. (p. 1 2)
Battled bendwise argent and gules, quartering
cheeky or and azure a f esse gules, for Clifford.
(P- 70
Barry of ten pieces argent and azure six scutcheons
sable each charged with a lion argent, a crescent
gules for cadency, (p. 116)
Sable a fesse ermine between three crescents argent.
(P- 9o)
Argent a bend sable with three popingays or
thereon, (p. 82)
Quarterly: 1, Gules a bend between six crosslets
fitchy argent with the augmentation for Flodden
on the bend, for Howard; 2, Gules three
leopards or and a label argent, for Brother-
ton; 3, cheeky or and azure, for Warenne;
4, Gules a lion argent, for Mowbray, with a
crescent in the centre of the shield for differ-
ence, (p. 89)
Gules a cheveron between ten crosslets or. (p. 5)
Argent two bars and a quarter gules with a molet
argent in the quarter, (p. 128)
Argent a cheveron between three left hands gules.
(p. 1 1 2)
Gules a demi-virgin clad in gold with her hair
dishevelled, a wreath of roses and an Eastern
Crown upon her head, coming out of clouds, all
in a border of clouds, (p. 125)
Azure two bars argent between three lions passant
or. (p. 5)
NEWTON OF WOOLTHORPE
OXENDEN OF DENE - -
PEARCE -----
PRINCE RUPERT OF THE
RHINE - - - - -
PRINCE OF WALES - - -
RUSSELL, DUKE OF BEDFORD
SCOTT, DUKE OF MONMOUTH
SIDNEY, EARL OF LEICESTER
TEMPLE, VISCOUNT
PALMERSTON - - - -
Sable two shinbones argent crossed in saltire. (p. 107)
Argent a cheveron gules between three oxen sable.
(p. 101)
Ermine a spotted pard rampant and looking back-
wards with three bees in the chief all in their
-proper colours, (p. 128)
Quarterly: 1 and 4, sable a lion argent crowned
or, for the Palatinate; 2 and 3, Lozengy
bendwise argent and azure, for Bavaria, (p. 70)
George Augustus Frederick, afterwards King
George IV. The royal arms of his father, King
George III, with the difference of a label argent.
(P- 73)
Argent a lion gules and a chief sable with three
scallops argent, which arms were also borne by
Russell, Lord de Clifford, (p. 123)
The royal arms of King Charles II, with the
difference of a sinister baston argent, and in
pretence or a bend azure with a molet of six
points between two crescents or on the bend, for
Scott of Buccleuch. (p. 109)
Or a broad-arrowhead azure, (p. 3)
Quarterly: 1 and 4, or an eagle sable, for
Leofric of Mercia; 2 and 3, Argent two
bars sable with three martlets or upon each bar,
for Temple, (p. 80)
xix
PREFACE
THE area dealt with in the third and concluding volume of
the survey of the former parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields
centres round Trafalgar Square and has the church as its
most prominent feature. Buckingham Palace, St. James's
Palace and Marlborough House, although all within the parish boundary,
have been left to form the subject of separate monographs to be issued at
some future date. The eastern strip of the parish, including Drury Lane
Theatre, has also been omitted since it can be more conveniently
described with the parish of St. Paul Covent Garden.
The church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields is, perhaps, more widely
known than any other London parish church, but little has hitherto
been published concerning its history and architecture; it is hoped
therefore that the description contained in the present volume will fulfil
a need.
It is fitting that the survey volume issued in 1939, the Jubilee
Year of the Council, should contain an account of the offices in Spring
Gardens from which the Council first carried on the government of
London.
The volume affords two interesting examples of the development of
place nomenclature. "Spring Garden," first used for the garden near
Whitehall Palace in its original meaning of a "plantation," came after
the conversion of that garden into a public pleasure ground, to be used
for other similar places of amusement. " Mews," now applied to any
stable premises even when converted to other uses, was the name given
to the buildings at Charing Cross where the royal hawks were kept,
and had originally no association with horses.
A new departure in this volume is the reproduction in colour of
four watercolour drawings from the Council's collection. Several
drawings of Carlton House preserved in the library at Windsor Castle
have been reproduced by gracious permission of His Majesty the King.
Thanks are due to the officials at the Public Record Office, the British
Museum, the Westminster City Council, the Office of Works and the
Commissioners of Crown Lands for assistance afforded during the com-
pilation of the volume. Valuable information for the early history of the
area has been obtained from the records preserved in the library of the Dean
and Chapter of Westminster, from the monuments of Bethlem Hospital,
and from manuscripts in the possession of the Marquess of Salisbury.
xx
St. Martin's Church authorities have given every facility to make
the record as complete as possible. Mr. D. W. Harrington has kindly
allowed the Council to reproduce his measured drawings of the steeple.
The Rev. E. E. Dorling, M.A., F.S.A., has revised the heraldic
blazons and drawn the marginal shields. The historical part of the
volume and its general editorship are the work of Miss Ida Darlington,
M.A. (Lond.), and of Mr. J. O. Thorne, B.A. (Oxon), assistants in
my department. The Architect to the Council desires that his apprecia-
tion shall be recorded of the work done in the preparation of the volume
by Mr. W. Dathy Quirke, A. R.I. B.A. , and other assistants in his
department.
G. H. GATER,
Clerk oj the London County Council.
The County Hall,
Westminster Bridge, S.E.i,
•939-
Note. The preface and the greater part of the volume were in
type before the outbreak of hostilities in September, 1 939. The diversion
of staff to other duties and other reasons connected with the war have
caused a delay of several months in the issue of this volume.
xxi
INTRODUCTION
THE parish boundary of St. Martin-in-the-Fields has undergone
several alterations in the course of its history. The first of which
we have any knowledge was carried out by Henry VIII, who
wrought far-reaching changes in the parish. He was probably
responsible for the alteration by which the Mews became used as stabling
for horses. Between 1530 and 1536 he bought up nearly all the ground
in the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields and the northern part of the
parish of St. Margaret, Westminster, and proceeded to build St. James's
Palace on the site of the leper house of St. James, to transform York
Place, the former residence of Wolsey, into the royal palace of Whitehall,
and to lay out St. James's Park on ground much of which had pre-
viously been arable land belonging to the Abbey of Westminster and St.
James's Hospital. Up to this time the parish of St. Margaret had extended
northward to Charing Cross and beyond, and eastward along the Strand to
Ivy Bridge. In order to avoid the spread of infection to the Court by the
passage of corpses through Whitehall Palace (which extended on both sides
of the roadway) to the church of St. Margaret, Henry VIII ordered1 that
the parish boundary should be altered so that all that part of the parish of
St. Margaret which lay north and east of Whitehall should be included in
the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. It is possible that it was the increase
in the number of parishioners resulting from this change which was the cause
of the substantial alterations carried out to the church of St. Martin in the
later years of the reign of Henry VIII. In 1645 tne parish of St. Paul,
Covent Garden, was carved out leaving a fringe of St. Martin's parish round
its north, east and south sides. The parish of St. Anne, Soho, was constituted
in 1678 and that of St. James's, Westminster, in 168$, leaving the some-
what awkwardly shaped area which remained the civil parish of St. Martin-
in-the-Fields until its abolition by the Westminster City (General Powers)
Act, 1 92 1.
The village of Charing owed its existence to its position at the
junction of the Strand, the road to the City, with the road to Westminster
Abbey and Palace and, probably, with a road to the west. Until the reign
of Henry VIII it consisted only of a very small church with a few houses
clustered round it. At least two of the inns which formerly stood at the
bottom of St. Martin's Lane dated from mediasval times. The rest of the
parish consisted of open fields which were mainly the property of religious
houses.
The property bought by Henry VIII north of Charing Cross, and
not required for the royal palaces was re-let and in most cases re-sold by
the king and his successors. The vague terms in which these properties
were described and the repetition in later deeds of earlier descriptions long
after they had become entirely anachronistic, often resulted in confusion as
to the actual ownership of specific pieces of ground. The law-suit waged
circa 1 585 concerning Geldings Close and described by C. L. Kingsford
in his Piccadilly, Leicester Square and Soho provides a good example of this.
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
The actual property concerned lies outside the scope of the present volume
but part of the plan drawn in connection with the suit is reproduced here
since it is of value in showing the disposition of the ground in the neighbour-
hood of the Mews temp. Queen Elizabeth. The confusion in the Ministers'
Accounts concerning the "3 acres near the Mews" owned by John Golightly
is referred to in Chapter 1 3, but perhaps the most complicated instance is
that of St. Martin's Field.
St. Martin's Field was, prior to the reign of Henry VIII, a large
common field stretching from the Mews up to St. Giles-in-the-Fields and
from Hedge Lane (now Whitcomb Street) to St. Martin's Lane. It was
divided among several owners, St. Giles' Hospital (Burton Lazar Lands3),
Lord Beaumont, the Abbey of Abingdon and Westminster Abbey (? 3 acres),
the Mercers' Company (2 acres), the Monastery of Vale Royal in Cheshire
(5 acres) and Sir John Digby (Swan Close). These lands were sub-let to
various tenants but the parish possessed lammas rights over them and the
whole field was supposed to lie open after harvest.
The Burton Lazar land lay north of the present parish boundary.
Two acres of it were granted by Henry VIII to William Wilkinson and
subsequently became the Military Garden, the site of Lord Gerrard's house.
Beaumont's lands were scattered in different parts of Westminster.
In 1538, being then in the hands of the king by the death of the Countess
of Oxford, the late wife of William, Viscount Beaumont, Beaumont's lands
a The Hospital of St. Giles was a house for lepers founded in n 17 or 11 18 by Queen
Maud, wife of Henry I. In 1299 it was granted to the Hospital of Burton Lazars in Leicestershire
and became a cell to that house (see Survey of London, V).
LEICESTER HOUSE
were leased to William Jenyns.2 In subsequent grants only one acre of
pasture in St. Martin's Field was referred to as Beaumont's land, but
three acres adjoining it, which had belonged to the Abbey of Westminster
and previously, in all probability, to the Abbey of Abingdon, were always
granted with it. In 1630s these four acres became the property of Robert,
Earl of Leicester, and formed the site of Leicester House and garden and the
western part of Leicester Square.
The two acres belonging to the Mercers' Company lay to the south
of the above four acres. They are marked W on the plan of 1585 and
subsequently became the site of the Blue Mews (see Chapter 15).
In 1536 the Abbot and Convent of Vale Royal granted to Hugh
Lee9 "fyve acres of medow and pasture ... in ... St. Martyns feeld
. . . two acres parcel! of the said fyve acres lying . . . between the landys
belonging to the house of Burton Lazer on the Est part and the lands of
John Stow on the West part and St. Martin's Lane on the South part and
Colmanhedge lane on the North part, and one half acre of the residue of the
said fyve acres lyeth between the lands of the said John Stow on the Est
part and Colmanhedge lane towards the Mewes on the west part and the
lands late belonging to the Abbot of Abington on the North Part and the lands
in the holding ... of John Lawrence on the South part and twoe acres
and an halfe residue of the said fyve acres lyen between the lands now in
the holding of the said John Stow on the Est part and Colmanhedge lane
towards the Mewes on the West part and the lands now in the occupacion
of the said John Lawrence on the North part and the lands now in the
occupacion of the said John Stow on the South part." These boundaries
are incomprehensible even allowing for the fact that the compass directions
had become misplaced in the description of the first parcel of ground.
We know from later descriptions that the Earl of Leicester's ground adjoined
the Blue Mews on the south and the Military Garden on the north and there
does not therefore appear to be any space for the Vale Royal five acres to
abut on Colmanhedge Lane (i.e. Whitcomb Street) on the west.
The property came into the king's hands at the dissolution of the
monastery. In 1 572 it was reported,10 under the same description as in 1 536,
as a "concealed land" and a lease11 of it for 21 years was, in 1583, granted to
Ann Farrant, who sold12 it to Robert Wood of Islington. In 1 589-90 it was
included in a large grant of land to John Wells and Henry Best,13 who promptly
disposed14 of it to Roger Wood, sergeant-at-arms, son of the Robert Wood
who held the leasehold interest. Roger Wood sold the property to Robert
Carr of Hillingdon whose son, Sir Edward Carr, left it to his nephew, also
named Sir Edward Carr. In 1634 Sir Edward Carr the younger with Jane
a The descent of the property is as follows: —
In 1 570 it was leased by Queen Elizabeth to William Brightman who, in the same year,
conveyed it to Robert Huyck.3 In 1 589 it was leased for thirty years to Mary Vaughan and Anne
and Thomas Loe, who, three years later, sold the lease to Mary Buntinge.4 In 1623 King James
granted the four acres to John Trayleman and Thomas Pearson6 who in the same year sold them to
trustees for Sir Lionel Cranfield, afterwards Earl of Middlesex.8 In 1626 the earl sold them to
Hugh Awdeley,7 the famous financier, who, in 1630, conveyed them to Robert, Earl of Leicester.8
Sidney, Earl of
Leicester
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
his wife and Sir Robert Wood of Islington sold15 the Vale Royal property,
under the description of the corner close of St. Martin's Field containing
four acres, to the Earl of Newport and it became the garden of Newport
House. The Wood family had retained an interest in the property owing to the
marriage of Roger, Sir Robert's father, with Rose, a daughter of Robert
Carr. Sir Edward Carr the elder and his sister Elizabeth must be the Edward
and Elizabeth Carr shown on the plan of 1609, reproduced here, as the
occupants of the ground north of Swan Close.3
'^j~~, /~ 3^e£,£~
*■'•*,
0-#~y
fy >**& '"W&y^ 4t*<M. /^At^-l*^
In a suit heard in the Court of Augmentations temp. Henry VIII16
it was stated that John Stow held the two and a half acre parcel of Vale
Royal land. John Stow also held the Swanb and its appurtenances and two
acres of land thereto belonging granted to him by John Digby. Deeds
relating to Swan Close prior to its acquisition by the Earl of Salisbury do
not suggest that it exceeded two acres in extent but in the plan of it preserved
at Hatfield and reproduced here it is shown in two parts each of which
a The following table shows the relationship of the Carr and Wood families.
Robert Carr of Hillingdon
I
Elizabeth = Edw. Forsett Sir Edw. Carr = Philadelphia, da. of John Connock
Gabriel Carr = Mary d. of John Connock Rose = 1 . — Vincent of Kentish Town
_. _ I _ = 2. Roger Wood of Islington = 1. — Harrison
Sir Edw. Carr = Jane d. of Sir Edw. Onslow (as his 2nd wife)
Sir Robert Wood
b The Swan Inn stood at the south-east corner of St. Martin's Lane (see page 56).
SWAN CLOSE
contained more than two acres, while adjoining it and granted with it was
a close of over three acres. It is therefore possible that Stow's portion of
the Vale Royal property became permanently attached to Swan Close.
Salisbury bought the northern part of Swan Close and the close
containing 3 acres 3 roods 35 perches adjoining it from John Kyme and
William Minterne in 1 609-1 o.17 The descent of the property to them can
be clearly traced in the records.3 The southern part of Swan Close, which
was stated to have been previously in the tenure of Richard Darloob,
Salisbury bought from Sir Henry Maynard in 1 608-9. 17 Maynard appears
to have acquired some rights over Swan Close but attempts to determine the
nature of those rights have proved unsuccessful. Salisbury obtained effective
possession of the'five acres of Swan Close (stretching from Hemming's Row
on the north side of the new churchyard, shown on the plan, to Newport
Street). This property he and his successors developed.0 The area between
Bear Street and Newport Street was developed by the Salisburys circa
1670-80, Cranborne Street being named after Viscount Cranbourne. This
area roughly corresponds in position and shape with that of the Close shown
south of Scavengers Close on the Hatfield plan, though it is considerably
smaller. In 1629 William, Lord Maynard, son of Sir Henry Maynard,
granted a lease of ground described as "conteyninge by estimacion three
commonlie called . . . Swan Close lyinge . . . behind the
acres
Muse" to William Ashton and in 1641 he sold it to the Earl of Northumber-
land. It was then described as abutting on "ground conteyning four acres
late in the occupacion of Richard Kiffin towards the west and upon a piece of
ground of . . . William Earle of Salisbury towards the north and upon a
ditch without the walls of the gardens belonging to the messuages ... of
the said Earle of Salisbury in St. Martin's Lane towards the East." This
ground ultimately came into the possession of the Earl of Leicester and
formed the site of part of Leicester Square and of Green Street, Bear
Street, Castle Street, etc. The earlier history of this ground has not been
discovered.
After the Restoration building proceeded rapidly over the whole
district, one of the biggest changes being, perhaps, the removal of the pall
mall alley southward into St. James's Park and the formation of the present
street called Pall Mall. There was during the eighteenth century a con-
a In 1554 Queen Mary granted the Swan and its appurtenances to John Best of West-
minster and John Grene of Chobham.18 John Best died in January 1559-60 leaving19 the Swan
Inn and its appurtenances to his brother Robert who in 1 571 sold20 it to Thomas Huyck, Doctor of
Law. The latter died in 1575 leaving21 this property to his niece, Anne Steward, daughter of Dr.
Robert Huyck and mother of the poet, Sir Simeon Steward. The Stewards in I 599 sold22 the property
to Richard Nightingale, at whose death in 1 601 it was divided equally between his two daughters
Alice, wife of John Kyme, and Bridget, wife of William Minterne.23 In all these transactions, except
the fine between the Stewards and Nightingale which may have included other land, the property
is referred to either as "the Swan and its appurtenances" or as "a messuage and two acres of land."
b In a suit24 brought by Robert Best, Richard Darloo was stated to be the tenant of the
Swan Inn.
c Lammas Rent of 50 shillings was paid for Swan Close by the Marquess of Salisbury
until 1895.
Kyme
Minterne
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
siderable deterioration in the character of most of the area dealt with in
this volume. By the beginning of the nineteenth century "Porridge Island"
south of St. Martin's Church had gained an evil reputation and the buildings
in the neighbourhood of the Mews, in Suffolk Street, Whitcomb Street, etc.,
were badly in need of reconstruction. Rebuilding would probably have been
carried out piecemeal had it not been for the foresight of John Nash and
other architects associated with him; to them we owe the vigorous piece
of town-planning which produced Regent Street and Waterloo Place, Carlton
Gardens and Carlton House Terrace, Suffolk Street, Pall Mall East and
Trafalgar Square.
CHAPTER i
THE MEWS, THE GOLDEN CROSS, ETC.
(THE SITE OF TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND THE
NATIONAL GALLERY)
As can be seen from the plan given on Plate 2 the "Great Mews"
in 1 796, occupied the greater part of the site of Trafalgar Square, the " Crown
Stables" being on the site of the western part of the National Gallery, and
the Green Mews extending backwards to what is now Orange Street. The
ground at the south-west corner of St. Martin's Lane was, however, in various
ownerships and had to be bought in by the Crown for the formation of the
square. Owing to its situation at the junction of several roads the site of
Trafalgar Square has always been of importance; an outline of the history of
the various portions of ground which it comprises is, therefore, set out below.
(i) The Mews.
No mention has been found of Mews at Charing Cross prior to the
reign of Edward I, and it seems probable that he was the first king to main-
tain such an establishment there. Accounts of the works at Westminster
Palace contain, from 1273 onwards, items relating to the building of the
Mews, to turfs bought for the herbary of the falcons, to work done at "the
houses of the chaplain officiating in the chapel of the King's Mews, and for
the King's falconers dwelling there."25 In 1306 the Master and Brethren of
St. James's Hospital were allowed to acquire land in Westminster in mort-
main provided that they maintained a chaplain to celebrate divine service
daily in the " Chapel of Muwes."26 Presumably this chapel was quite small and
formed part of the Mews building. No later mention of it has been found.
Thomas de Erleham, who was keeper of the Mews early in the
reign of Edward I, had an allowance of 9d. a day.27 A hundred years later,
Sir Simon de Burley, had I2d. a day for the same office,26 and his patent sets
forth the prices he was to pay for stocking the Mews, namely: 20s. for a
falcon-gentle, 10s. for a tercelet-gentle, 13s. 4d. for a goshawk, 6s. 8d. a
piece for a goshawk, sakeret, lanner or lanneret-tercel, 26s. 8d. for a ger-
falcon and 13s. 4d. for a gerfalcon-tercel. Burley was tutor to Prince
Richard (afterwards Richard II) and arranged his marriage with Anne of
Bohemia.28 After Richard's accession to the throne Burley remained his sup-
porter, and in consequence incurred the enmity of the Duke of Gloucester
and his associates. He was impeached and beheaded on Tower Hill in 1388.
An inventory29 of his goods "at the Mews and Baynard's Castle" includes a
list of 24 books, a large number for those days.
During the 1 5th century the keepership of the Mews, like so many
offices about the court, became largely an honorary dignity, the duties being
performed by deputies. Among the holders of the office were John, Duke
of Bedford, regent during the minority of Henry VI, and Richard, Earl of
Warwick, "the kingmaker."26
An expenditure of £200 on "building the Mews at Charing Cross"
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
is noted in "The King's Book of Payments" under date July, 1 51 5,30 but by
1530 Henry had become more interested in the reconstruction of Wolsey's
palace, York Place, than in hawking, and buildings at the Mews, as well
as those at Westminster Palace and the Manor of Kennington, were pulled
down in order to provide stone, brick, chalk, tiles, etc., for the king's new
palace.31
Stow32 tells us that in 1 534 " the king having faire stabling at Lomsbery
(a Manor in the farthest west part of Oldborne) the same was fiered and
burnt, with many great horses, and great store of Hay. After which time,
the forenamed house called the Mewse by Charing crosse was new builded,
and prepared for stabling of the king's horses, in the raigne of Edward the
sixt and Queene Mary." Many writers have accepted this explanation of the
change of function of the Mews which seems to have taken place about
this time, but there does not appear to be any other evidence of the king
having stables at Bloomsbury which would have been an inconvenient
distance from any of the royal palaces. Stow's survey was written some sixty
years after the fire was said to have taken place; the account given in
Edward Hall's Chronicle published in 1548 is on all counts far more likely
to be correct. It runs: "The xvj day of the same month (i.e. August, 1534)
was burned the kynges stable at Charyng crosse otherwise called the Mewse,
wherein was brent many great Horses and great store of haye." In 1527
Thomas Wilson "yeoman farrier" was granted the custody of the Mews
and he was succeeded in 1533 by Thomas Wood "yeoman of the Stable,"30
two appointments which corroborate Hall's suggestion that the change of
function of the Mews took place before the fire and not in consequence of
it. The Mews at Charing Cross were rebuilt as stables between 1547 and
1 559. Over £8,000 was expended in this rebuilding.33 The accounts reveal
very little of the nature of the buildings, which probably consisted for the
most part of one-storied stabling round an open yard. The pond, shown on
later plans, was in existence at this date, and there were at least two gates.
The Keeper of the Mews had lodgings there and there were also lodgings
built over the main gate.34 John Golightly, "the king's yeoman smith," and
the owner of a considerable amount of property in the neighbourhood,
succeeded Wood as keeper of the Mews.26
References to the Mews during Queen Elizabeth's reign relate
mainly to minor repairs and to the supply of provisions. In the latter con-
nection it may be noted that the parishioners of St. Martin's agreed to supply
yearly four "loades of good swet and drye hey of the first mowinge at or
before the firste of Auguste."35
In the 1 7th century parts of the Mews, either by formal grant or tacit
consent, began to be used as lodgings for Court favourites and Court officials.
Soldiers were quartered there during the Commonwealth period36 but in
1653-4 the Mews "with all the lodgings, rooms and stables there other than
the barn now used for the horseguard" were ordered to be cleared "For the
Protector's use,"36 an order which provoked many protests from the inhabi-
tants.
8
THE MEWS
After the Restoration repair and rebuilding works were carried out
at and near the Mews. On 7th September, 1663, the Earl of Newburgh
claimed compensation for his "expensive charge in building of a howse,
Stable and Coach howse upon his Mate Ground in the mewes"37 and in the
following year the Duke of Albemarle was responsible for paving the Mews
"and the streets next to them near Charing Cross and St. Martin's Lane,"
and for "building two Coach-houses for the queen."36 In the same year he
wrote to the Lord Mayor "requesting a quill of water for the Gentlemen of
the Horse at the Mews Gate."38
On 25th September, 1661, Pepys records that he met Sir R. Slingsby
in St. Martin's Lane, and "he and I in his coach through the Mewes,
which is the way that now all coaches are forced to go, because of a stop
at Charing Cross, by reason of a drain there to clear the streets," and on
29th February, 1663-4, Pepys and Sir William Penn went to the Mews to
see the Duke of York's horses.39 In March, 1665, Pepys visited "Creed's
new lodging in the Mewes," and there "found Creed with his parrot upon
his shoulder."
In All Souls' College is preserved a plan made by Sir Christopher
Wren "for rebuilding the royal Mews at Charing Cross to contain 388
Horses and 42 Coaches,"40 but this was never carried out, the first and only
big improvement there being the rebuilding of the main block of stables on
the site of the National Gallery by William Kent in 1732. Ralph, writing in
1 734,41 says : "The stables in the Mewse are certainly a very grand and noble
building, but then they are in a very singular taste; a mixture of the Rustick
and the Gothique together; the middle gate is built after the first, and the
towers over the two others, in the last. I will not take upon me to determine
whether this is a fault or no . . . but this I am sure of, that unless the other
wretched buildings are pull'd down, and the corresponding wings are made
to answer the bulk already rais'd; . . . and the whole laid open to the
street, it will add a new reflection on our taste. ... I could wish too that
a view was open'd from hence to St. Martin's Church." Noorthouck, forty
years later, praised Kent's work, but lamented "the wretched buildings that
form the other sides of the square," making it "look like a common inn-
yard."42 By the end of the 1 8th century most of the buildings on the Hedge
Lane and Charing Cross frontages appear to have been leased out to private
persons,43 and during the last few years of its existence even Kent's building
lost its original function, being used for the storage of public records and,
for a time, as a menagerie. There is little doubt that the clearance occasioned
by the extension of Pall Mall eastwards to the Church was long overdue.
An engraving by T. H. Shepherd showing the appearance of Kent's building
just prior to its demolition in 1830 is reproduced on Plate 3^.
(ii) St. Martin's Watch House.
In 1697-8 the parish authorities obtained from the Crown a grant43
of a small piece of ground, part of the Mews, which had previously been used
for the storage of coals, on which to build a parish watch house or round
9
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
house.4 The ground was only 1 6 feet by 1 7 feet in extent and the building
must have been very small. It was the scene of a horrible incident in July,
1742, when the parish constables having got drunk took up some five and
twenty women and thrust them into the round house for the night.
According to one account six of the women were stifled to death.44
The site of the round house is shown on the plan of the Mews given
on Plate 2. It is now part of Trafalgar Square.
(iii) The King's Head and The Chequer.
The extreme south-west corner of St. Martin's Lane (now part of
the roadway east of the paved area of Trafalgar Square) belonged in the
15th century to Westminster Abbey. In 1493, John Norris, "yeoman of
Eybury," obtained a lease of "one messuage with two annexed cottages at
Charing Cross opposite the Rowncevall . . ., which messuage abuts on the
wall of the garden of the mews on the north, on St. Martin's Lane on the
east, on the highway on the south and on the tenement belonging to the
house of the Blessed Mary of Bedelem outside Bishopsgate, London, on the
West." At the same time Norris agreed to have a new brewhouse erected
there.45 The lease was subsequently renewed to John's widow Christian, but
the property having been acquired by Henry VIII it was, in 1 545-6, granted46
to Thomas and James Bacon under the description of "a tenement called
le Rose and two cottages situated near Charing Cross."
In 1 56 1 , when the sign of the Rose had been changed to that of
the Chequer, George Carleton, who had acquired the freehold of the property,
brought a suit against the then tenant, Christian Golightly, for dilapidations.47
Her tenancy ended soon after but it is interesting to note that the Golightlys
were, at some time or other, in possession of practically the whole of the site
of Trafalgar Square (John Golightly being keeper of the Mews) and this
is probably the reason for the confusion which arose later as to the ownership
of the various portions of ground.
In 1573, George Carleton granted to John Yrpe, yeoman, a renewal
of his lease of the property which was then described as "the kings hedd
wherein Robert Cole Inholder late dwelled, the tenement wherein George
Wheler late dwelled and the Ynne caled the Cheqr- wherin the said John
Yrpe nowe dwelleth."48 By this lease, John Yrpe was authorised to pull down
the middle house and use the materials to repair the other two. Carleton soon
after sold the property to Robert, Earl of Essex, who, on 1 8th December,
1 58 1, granted it to the Queen in exchange for certain lands belonging to
the bishoprics of Oxford and London.49 There was, perhaps, some suggestion
that the ground should be added to the area of the Mews, but if so it was
never carried out and in 16 14, it was included in a big grant of property to
William and George Whitmore under the name of "the Lowe Inne alias
the Chequer now or late in the tenure of John Yrpe."50
In 1637, John Taylor noted that "the Carriers of Blanvile in Dorcet-
shire, doe lodge at the chequer neere Charing Crosse, they doe come thither
■ The round house had previously been in Hedge Lane (see p. 104).
IO
THE CHEQUER
every second thursday."51 The Chequer remained in being until the middle
of the i 8th century though seven small houses were built on the site of the
two adjoining houses.52 The premises were purchased53 in 1 729 by Sir Anthony
Sturt and his son Humphrey, and were sold by the latter in 1 749 to the Earl
of Northumberland who wished to add to the stabling accommodation of
Northumberland House and widen the road in front of it.54 When the property
was purchased by the Crown in 1827 for the formation of Trafalgar Square,
it consisted of two houses facing St. Martin's Lane (Nos. 148 and 149 in the
occupations of Mr. McNab, surgeon and Mr. Cox, tailor), three houses facing
Charing Cross, east of Chequer Court (Nos. 1, 2 and 3, in the occupations of
Mr. Belcher, linen draper, Mr. Pauli, furrier, and Mr. Dobree, pawnbroker)
and the Northumberland Coffee House on the west side of Chequer Court.
(iv) Nos. 5-9, Charing Cross.
The property at Charing Cross owned by Bethlem Hospital has
been the subject of much controversy, but from the evidence now avail-
able there seems little doubt that it consisted originally only of the
, Tl" Mcv.'j Great Sarr,
Plan showing the property claimed by Bethlem Hospital in 1 649
ground west of the Chequer Inn marked on the inset plan (dated 1649)
as in the occupation of Olave Buck, Isabel Lumsden, William Baker and
Robert Hills. It is first mentioned in an inquisition of 1403 when it was
stated to be worth 6 marks a year.55 In 1545, Peter Mewtys, master of
c II
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Bethlem Hospital
the hospital, granted this property, under the description of "the Stone-
house, with the appurtenances lately erected in three tenements," to Thomas
Wood, yeoman, and Joan his wife, for 99 years.56 In 1552, Thomas Wood
surrendered his patent as keeper of the Mews in favour of John Golightly,28
and two years later he made a will bequeathing to his wife "all that my lease
of two tenements in the parish of St. Martin, Charing Cross: the one in
the tenure of John Golightly, as also the other, in which I now dwell, which
tenements I have of the lease made unto me by the late master of the hospital
of Our Blessed Lady of Bethlem." The right of the governors of the hospital
to the freehold of this piece of ground does not seem to have been ever
in dispute, for in the suit of 1643 (see below) Olave Buck "admitted himself
to be tenant to the hospital."56 Champions of the rights of the hospital have,
however, laid claim on its behalf both to the Chequer and to the property to
the north and west, which they state were niched by John Golightly and
others. As shown above the Chequer belonged originally to Westminster
Abbey and cannot have been Bethlem property; the other claim will be
dealt with under (v) below.
At the time of the purchase by the Crown (1830) there were five
houses on the ground owned by the hospital : No. 5, Charing Cross, was
in the occupation of James Wyld, mapseller, No. 6 of Charles Prater, while
No. 8 was used by Thomas Bish as a lottery office and No. 9 was sub-let to
Frederick Gye and Richard Hughes, tea dealers.3
(v) The Golden Cross and Properties Adjoining.
In 1493, tne s'te °f ^e Chequer was stated to abut "on the wall of
the garden of the Mews on the north" (see p. 10) and on the tenement of
Bethlem Hospital on the west. This definite statement, made before any
dispute arose as to the possessions of the hospital, leaves little room for
doubt that (iv) (The Golden Cross and properties adjoining) was originally
part of the Mews and crown property and that the royal grants of it made
in the 16th and 17th centuries were legal and genuine. One plot measuring
146 feet by 122 feet, and roughly corresponding with the ground shown on
the 1 649 plan as in the possession of Walter Bridall and Abraham Cartwright,
was granted by Edward VI to John Golightly who sold it to Thomas Reve
and Antony Rotsey, the latter obtaining a confirmation of the grant from
Philip and Mary.57 In 1643 tne governors of the hospital filed a bill in
Chancery to prove that these grants were obtained "by fraud and mis-
representation."55 No decree was obtained and the matter was settled by
Cartwright and Bridall selling their rights in the property to the hospital
in return for a lease.
The ground marked A and B on the 1649 plan was ^so originally
part of the Mews" and was, in the reign of Elizabeth, in the tenure of
a One of the Bethlem houses fronting Charing Cross was known in the second half
of the 17th century as the Goat Tavern. It was there that Pepys found the Earl of Sandwich's
children when they came to town to see the coronation of King Charles II.
b This is definitely stated in the early grants.
12
THE GOLDEN CROSS
Christian Golightly. In 1568 a grant of it was made to Hugh Councell and
Robert Pystor,58 but this grant appears to have lapsed, for the property is
entered in the Ministers Accounts for the later years of Elizabeth's reign
and early years of James I as "concealed land." In 1608 a further grant of
it was made to Thomas Garland and Elizabeth his wife,59 from whom it passed
to Richard Serle, surgeon,60 who is noted as the claimant on the plan of 1649.
Serle's daughter, Elizabeth, married Roger Dade of Lincoln's Inn,61 and his
grand-daughter, Elizabeth Dade, in 171 3, married Stephen Haward of the
Middle Temple.62 The property thus passed into the possession of the Hawards
who retained the freehold until it was bought in by the Crown in 1827.63
The Golden Cross Inn, a plan of which is reproduced on this page,
covered part of both the above properties. The main entrance to Charing
Cross and the west side of the inn occupied the ground marked B on the
1 649 plan together with an additional strip of ground from the Mews leased
to Sir Edward Sydenham by Charles II in 167043 and subsequently leased to
Edward Aubery.43 The greater part of the premises of the inn was, however,
on the ground sold64 to Bethlem Hospital in 1649 by Walter Bridall and
13
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Abraham Cartwright. In 1830, when the hospital properties at Charing
Cross were exchanged for ground in Jermyn Street,63 the inn was in lease to
William Home. It had an entrance to St. Martin's Lane between Nos. 144
and 145. It was from the Golden Cross that the immortal Mr. Pickwick
started on his journey to Rochester and it is of interest to note that Mr.
Jingle's story of the lady who lost her head had some foundation in fact, for
on nth April, 1800, as the Chatham and Rochester coach emerged from
the gateway of the Golden Cross "a young woman, sitting on the top, threw
her head back, to prevent her striking against the beam ; but there being so
much luggage on the roof of the coach as to hinder her laying herself
ou u~~ ~ * ^i^f ****-i/~~ <*^>,/~. - **« ~^JT - ~g»«~ -^ "*;,/• -t/-^
sufficiently back, it caught her face, and tore the flesh ... in a dreadful
manner"65 — an accident which afterwards proved fatal.
A view of the Charing Cross frontage of the Golden Cross is given
on the engraving published by Bowles in 1753 of a view by Canaletto.»
A later view just prior to its demolition, from a drawing by T. H. Shepherd,
is given on Plate 4^. This view also shows Mr. Bish's lottery office next
door but one.
Nos. 142 to 147, St. Martin's Lane, were also sold by the hospital
to the Crown in 1830. They were then let to George Boulton. Nos. 137 to
141, St. Martin's Lane, some houses in Frontier Court and Haward and
Nixon's premises in the rear occupied the remainder of the ground marked
A on the 1649 plan and were sold by Haward's descendants to the Crown in
1827.63
Reproduced as the frontispiece to Vol. XVIII of the Survey.
H
CHAPTER 2
TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND THE NATIONAL GALLERY
The genesis of Trafalgar Square is well set forth in the 5th Report
of the Commissioners of H.M. Woods, Forests and Land Revenues dated
1826: "When the Line of Communication between Pall Mall and Portland
Place had been completed, and as soon as we were put in possession of the
Site of the Lower Mews at Charing Cross, we took measures for proceeding
to execute that part of the Improvement, which had for its object the continua-
tion of Pall Mall into Saint Martin's lane, terminating at the Portico of
Saint Martin's Church, and forming an open area in front of the King's
Mews, and it . . . appeared to us, after mature consideration, that the
unequal lengths of the two sides of the open Area, proposed by the original
Plan, would be a deformity, peculiarly striking, in the approach from White-
hall; that a much larger space, than was at first designed, ought to be left
open, and the West end of the Strand considerably widened." The Com-
missioners therefore instructed Nash to draw up a new plan. This left open
the whole area of what is now Trafalgar Square, except for an oblong block
in the centre set aside as a site for the Royal Academy. The National Gallery
was shown as extending along the entire north side of the square with the
barracks behind, while the Golden Cross, the Athanamm and the Vicarage
of St. Martin's occupied the triangular block on the east of the square.
The Charing Cross Act66 was passed in 1826, but the original scheme under-
went many modifications, and 30 years passed before the square as we know
it was finally completed.
(i) The National Gallery.
In 1824 the purchase of John Julius Angerstein's collection of
pictures was authorised by Parliament, thus forming the nucleus of the
National Gallery Collection.28 The pictures were for several years exhibited
in the Angerstein Gallery in Pall Mall, but the site being required for the
opening of a road from Carlton House Terrace to Pall Mall43 it became
necessary to erect a new gallery.
Designs for the gallery, which it was agreed should occupy the site
proposed by Nash on the north side of the square, were sent in by Nash,
C. R. Cockerel], and William Wilkins,67 that of the last being accepted.8
The work was commenced in 1832 and finished in 1838. In his treatment
of the facade, Wilkins was handicapped by having to utilise the columns and
capitals from Carlton House, which had been stored since its demolition.
The central feature of the symmetrical stone front is the effective
octastyle pedimented portico of Corinthian columns standing on a high
podium wall with well arranged flanking steps. The main wall surface is in
a His other works included Highbury College, Downing College, St. George's
Hospital, and the Nelson Pillar, Dublin. He was associated with Gandy-Deering in the design for
University College, London, and University Club House. He published Antiquities of Magna
Graecia in 1807 and a translation of Vitruvius in 18 12.
'5
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
two stages divided by a continuous band between the windows and niches.
The length of the front is relieved by a series of breaks and by a grouping
of pilasters to the wings, each of which is surmounted by an octagonal cupola
forming a pavilion treatment. There are a series of detached columns to the
flanks screening the secondary entrances. The entity of the composition is
effected by the moulded entablature and by the high balustraded parapet
which surmounts the whole front of the building, while the symmetrical or
axial arrangement is emphasised by a centrally placed dome (Plate 5).
The public gain access by the entrances under the portico which lead
into a central hall from which the main galleries are approached. A plan
is here shown of the Gallery as it was first erected. Alterations to the interior
were carried out by James Pennethorne and further additions, including the
demolition of adjoining properties to isolate the galleries, have been sub-
sequently carried out. The Royal Academy occupied the eastern half of
the building until 1869.
(ii) Trafalgar Square.
The area of the square was cleared soon after the passing of the
Charing Cross Act, but though it formed an open space from 1830 onward
it was unnamed until circa 1835; even so the name appears to have arisen
prior to and independently of the siting of the Nelson Column (see below).
William Wilkins died before any decision was reached on his plan for the
formal lay-out, and the matter was referred to Charles Barry. In 1840 a
Select Committee considered Barry's proposals which included the forma-
tion of a terrace in front of the National Gallery, and the levelling and paving
of the area of the square. Barry opposed the erection of the Nelson Column
in Trafalgar Square on the grounds that it would dwarf the gallery, and so
spoil the effect which his terrace was designed to achieve, namely the improve-
ment of the elevation of Wilkins' building. Work had, however, already
begun on the foundations of the column, and Barry was forced to set aside
his objections.
The lay-out of the square was not completed until circa 1850. The
fountains and their basins, which did not form part of Barry's original design,
occupy a large part of the area. A contemporary, writing in The Builder,
notes that "they are exceedingly chaste in design, plain simple and unadorned
as all works in granite ever should be . . . and in keeping with the prevailing
16
THE FOUNTAINS
design of the square. . . . They are the work of Messrs. Macdonald, the
hydraulic part of the matter is entrusted to Messrs. Easton and Amos who
are well known for their practical acquaintance with such matters. The
water to supply the fountains is obtained from two wells, one in front of the
National Gallery, and the other behind it, which are connected together by
means of a tunnel, that of course passes directly under the National Gallery,
behind which is also placed the engine-house for raising the required water
into the tanks, etc., before it is forced through the fountains." The foun-
tains were completed in 1845. They are now (1939) being remodelled as
memorials to Lord Jellicoe and Lord Beatty.
The Square is bounded on the north by a terrace wall surmounted by
a balustraded parapet, all being executed in grey granite. On each of the
flanks are wide flights of steps with a right-angle turn leading to the higher
level of the terrace, which is paved with squares of Mansfield stone laid
diagonally. Flanking the steps are rectangular pylons, the one on the east
being surmounted by a statue of George IV, the western one being vacant.
Separating the terrace from the public footway are spaced a series of dwarf
cylindrical granite posts. Along the eastern and western sides of the Square
the parapet wall follows the slope of the adjoining roads and terminates at
each of the southern ends with a cylindrical granite pylon surmounted by a
handsome bronze octagonal lamp. Other lamps on high decorative bronze
standards are situate along the top of the boundary walls. The southern
side is defined by a further series of cylindrical posts which terminate at the
base of the Nelson Column,* while on either side are statues of Napier and
Havelock. Behind, equally spaced to the main portion of the Square, are
the fountains with the Gordon memorial between. The square has recently
been repaved with rectangular flagstones.
On a granite pedestal at the north-eastern side of the Square stands a
bronze equestrian statue of George IV. The king is shown bareheaded in a
semi-classical dress with his cloak thrown back. His right hand grasps a baton
and his left the reins. He is shown without stirrups and his charger is standing
with its four feet on the ground and its head slightly turned (Plate ~]a).
The statue, which was executed by Sir Francis Chantry, was originally
intended for placing on the Marble Arch in front of Buckingham Palace.
Near the south-east corner on a high granite pedestal is a bronze
statue of Major-General Sir Henry Havelock, K.C.B. He is shown in uni-
form standing bareheaded with his left hand grasping his grounded sword,
his right tucked in his belt, and his cloak hanging loosely from his right
shoulder. The sculptor was W. Behnes, R.A. The memorial was erected
by public subscription in 1861.
Near the south-west corner, standing on a granite pedestal, is a
bronze statue, 12 feet in height, of General Sir Charles James Napier. The
general is shown bareheaded, in military uniform, with his cloak thrown
back. His left hand is grasping his sword by the scabbard and raised above
his waist, while his right, extended, holds a scroll symbolic of the govern-
a The column is in advance of the line of these posts.
17
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
ment awarded to Scinde during his tenure of office. The sculptor was G. G.
Adams. The monument was erected in 1855-6 by means of public sub-
scriptions, the most numerous contributors being private soldiers.
In the centre of the Square between the fountains, on a granite
pedestal, is a bronze statue erected to the memory of General Charles
Gordon, C.B.E., killed at Khartoum on 26th January, 1885. The statue
depicts Gordon in military uniform but bareheaded, in a meditative mood
holding his chin in his right hand. His left hand holds the Bible and under
his left arm is his cane. His left foot is slightly raised and rests on a damaged
mortar. On each side of the pedestal is a bronze panel representing "Faith
and Fortitude" and "Charity and Justice," respectively. The total height
of the memorial is 30 feet. It was unveiled on 16th October, 1888. The
sculptor was Hamo Thornycroft assisted by Alfred Waterhouse.
The Nelson Column.
The suggestion that a national monument should be erected in honour
of Nelson and in commemoration of the Battle of Trafalgar was discussed in
Parliament in 1 8 1 8, but it was not until 1838 that a Nelson Memorial Com-
mittee was formed for the collection of voluntary subscriptions, and a competi-
tion was held for the design of the monument. William Railton's design
(reproduced on Plate 6) was finally selected, though the height of the column
was subsequently reduced, and, having been approved by H.M. Com-
missioners of Woods and Forests and by the Lords of the Treasury, a site
in Trafalgar Square was granted by the Government. Work was begun on
the concrete foundations in 1839.68 The fluted column (145 feet high) of
the Corinthian order of architecture, is of granite brought from Foggin Tor,
Devonshire, while the capital was cast from old guns in the Woolwich
Arsenal foundry. The statue, which is of Craigleith stone,69 was sculptured
by Edward Hodges Baily and was raised in November, 1843.* The four
bronze bas-relief panels to the square pedestal depict the Battle of St. Vincent,
the Battle of the Nile, the Bombardment of Copenhagen and the death of
Nelson. They were cast from guns captured at these battles, and at
Trafalgar, and were the work respectively of the artists, M. L. Watson,
W. F. Woodington, J. Ternouth, and J. E. Carew.
The lions guarding the four corners of the monument, which were
part of the original design, were lacking for many years, but were placed in
position in January, 1867. The lions, superb in their scale, represent dignity
and strength (Plate 76). They were all from the same model by Sir Edwin
Landseer, R.A., and were cast in bronze by Baron Marochetti.
At the foot of the terrace wall along the northern side of the Square
the standard measures are set out in metal.
a The original statue of Nelson by Baily is preserved in the entrance hall at the Admiralty
(see Survey of London, Vol. 16, Plate 66).
CHAPTER 3
THE CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS
The Mediaeval Church
Of the earliest church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, little is known
except that it came into being between the date of Domesday Book and
the reign of Henry II,70 and that it was a parish church before the close of
the 1 2th century.71 The church and churchyard were excepted out of the
exemption from the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London which was con-
firmed in 1222 to the Abbey of Westminster concerning St. Margaret's
Church and parish,70 but the rectory appears to have belonged to the prior
of Westminster from the first. A list of all the known vicars is given in
Appendix A.
References to the church in the 14th and 15th centuries are scanty.
There are some rather obscure references to digging for buried treasure
in the church circa 1300. In 1406 William Holt, a felon, took sanctuary
there but was removed "by divers malefactors by force by night, the men
of the town of Westminster watching there being wounded and ill treated."26
In 1423 the vicar successfully carried through a suit against the master and
brethren of the chapel of St. Mary Rounceval who had been defrauding
him of his parochial dues.54
The only first hand evidence available as to the architecture and
contents of the church prior to the enlargement carried out in 1 607 is con-
tained in the Churchwardens' Accounts and the Vestry Minutes. The
former start in 152$? the latter in 1574. The information they afford
with regard to the fabric of the church is somewhat fragmentary and the
early map-views add little to our knowledge since they show a purely con-
ventionalised unaisled building with a tower at the west end. On Agas
the tower is placed at the south-west corner but this may probably be attri-
buted to the artist's desire to put it in the picture. Vertue's plan and views
reproduced on page 2 1 and on plates 8 and 9 give some indication of the
size and plan of the original church. They show the tower at the north-west
corner, a position which is confirmed by Kip's view (Plate 53).b There is no
suggestion in the accounts that the tower was rebuilt in 1607 and it can,
therefore, be assumed that this was its original position. All the later illus-
trations show the tower surmounted by a cupola of Renaissance design.
The church appears to have been built of rubble and repaired with
brick, and to have consisted of a chancel and nave under one roof, presumably
without a chancel arch, but with the division marked by a rood screen and
loft.
There are several references in the accounts to chapels; e.g. in 1533
a The extant registers of baptisms, marriages and burials do not start until 1550, but
the burial registers were begun in 1525 for in that year the accounts contain entries of payment
of iijd "for a paper booke for the Clerk to wright in the buryalls" and iiijs "for writying of the
buryalls and other thyngs to the Churche."
b It is not clear from the plan how the internal angle of the tower was supported.
19
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
"Making pews in Saint Johans aisle," in 1540-41 "For stuf and work-
manship of the staires and ij pues in saynt Cuthberdes Chappell," and in
1 544 to " Making a new pew next Seynt Cutberd He." These may have been
chantry chapels. An entry in 1534 for mending the gutter of Saint
John's Chapel, may indicate a structural division and not merely an altar.
In addition to the altars of St. John and St. Cuthbert there are references
to the Altar of Our Lady of Pity and to a Jesus Mass endowed by Humphrey
Cooke, which may indicate a Jesus Altar.
In 1525 there was a payment for carving and garnishing of
the rood loft and for the making of the image of Jesus and of Our Lady
and the twelve prophets. There was also in the same year an entry for wax
to renew the rood light and, in 1541, for glazing the window of the rood loft.
In 1525-27 timber, brick and tiles were provided for rebuilding the
porch and at the same time the body of the church was partly re-tiled and the
floor re-paved. There are also pre-Reformation references in the accounts to
the bells, to the organ, and to pews for the parishioners. The windows con-
tained some coloured glass. The interior of the church was whitewashed.
The religious changes of the Tudor period are reflected in the
accounts which record the acquisition of vestments after the dissolution of
the monasteries, the sale of vestments, candlesticks, etc., and the destruction
of altars, during the reign of Edward VI, their reinstatement after the
accession of Mary, and the further changes of Elizabeth's reign.
In 1556-57 there were payments for mending and setting up the
pulpit and "for the staye to go vpp in to the powlpet," "for two clamps
of yron to ffasten the powlpett to the pyller," and "for Diggenge the whole
and setteng the poste in the grounde, and pavinge thearof."
The walls of the church were repaired, and perhaps in part rebuilt,
in 1542-43, when an organ loft was set up, and stalls were placed in the
choir. A more extensive repair was carried out in 1 596-99, when the accounts
record "the Taking Downe of Peeres and Arches of Stone that the People
may the better here the preacher, the newe beareinge of the Roofes wth Stronge
arches and Pillers of Tymber," and the making of "two greate windowes
w" ij Dormors ouer them" as well as a number of minor matters.
By James I's reign both church and churchyard had become inade-
quate "by reason of the late greate increase of howses and habitacions in
the same parishe."35 In 1606 the king granted an acre of ground on the
west side of St. Martin's Lane for a new churchyard (see p. 112) and at the
same time the churchwardens set about repairing and enlarging the church.
Reference to Vertue's plan (p. 21), shows that in 1606-09 tne church was
extended on the north, south and west sides and a new chancel was built.
The prime mover in "amplifying and beautifying"72 the building
was Sir George Coppin, Clerk of the Crown in the Court of Chancery. A
sordid dispute arose after the work was completed, some of the parishioners,
Ralph Dobbinson, John Thorpe and others, accusing Coppin of having
embezzled funds provided for the building, and Coppin retaliating in kind
by suggesting that Dobbinson had forged the accounts, and had combined
20
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
with other parishioners to annex the "highest and principal pewes" to the
deprivation of "Earles, knightes and other bountifull benefactors of the
same Church." The appropriation of pews was discussed several times by
the vestry about this time, and in 1618 the churchwardens were ordered
to see that parishioners could "enioye the liberty of their own pewes w"1 out
beeing troubled wth children or waiting women or others w"* have no Right
to sitt in such pewes . . . excepting the children of such honorable and
worthy persons as the churche-wardens . . . shall thinke fltt."35 The ques-
tion of seating-room in the church in a growing parish in an age when non-
attendance was a punishable offence was a constant source of difficulty.
The gallery on the north side was enlarged in 1621 and that on the south
side in 1623, nevertheless a few years later the parishioners petitioned the
king for the use of the hall in Durham House as a church since the parish
church could not "contain one half of those who would come to it."35a
Owing to the troubles of Charles I's reign, the Civil War, and the natural
dilatoriness of the parish authorities nothing effective was done. After the
Restoration the scramble for pews recommenced. In 1661 the Church-
wardens were ordered to "cause a little gallery to bee made from the Vestry
Gallery unto ye second piller from ye sayd Gallery and that Sir Edward
Nicholas one of the Secretarys of State bee placed in parte of ye sayd new
built Gallery, leaving of it to himself what his honor wilbe pleased to give
for it."35 Sir Edward Hungerford and Sir Thomas Clarges were among
the other applicants for pews. The formation of the parishes of St. Anne,
Soho, and St. James's, Piccadilly, in 1678-85 did much to relieve the
pressure, but it was found necessary to retain the subsidiary chapel in Oxendon
Street, first used as an offshoot of St. Martins in 1678, until 1726, when
St. Martin's was rebuilt.
The influence of Archbishop Laud is probably to be seen in the order
of 1626 "touchinge a Frame or pillers to be made about the Communion
Table," and in that of 1629 for seeing that the "glasse wyndowe of the
Chauncell at the East end of the Church be forthwith repayred with Cullored
glasse suitable to that w"* remayneth."35
On the whole the authorities of St. Martin's in the 17th century
occupied themselves with their own concerns and were content to swim
with the tide in larger matters. An exception was Dr. Everard, "reader"
of St. Martin's, who was so often imprisoned for preaching against the
proposed marriage of Prince Charles with the Infanta of Spain that King
James, in a rare burst of jocularity, is reported to have suggested that his
name should be changed from Dr. Ever-out to Dr. Never-out.73 He was
later accused, apparently quite unjustly, of Anabaptist tendencies.b There
a Durham House had been used for this purpose in 1607-08 when the church was
undergoing repair. No evidence has been found of its being put to such a use temp. Charles I. (See
Survey of London, Vol. XVIII, p. 93.)
b The readers or Sunday lecturers were usually puritans and were not attached to one
parish but preached at different churches on Sunday afternoons. They came under the censure
of Archbishop Laud who tried to put a stop to their activities.
22
OLD ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH
is little to record of the Commonwealth period directly affecting the church.
Puritan zeal was displayed by the vestry in 1646 when they desired that
the vicar and the "Sabbath day lecturer" should have public prayers and
expositions at 6 o'clock every morning in summer and at 7 in winter "for
the better informacion of Laborers and the poorer sort who cannott come
to Church on the Lord's Day." When in 1649 the vestry requested that
"people of quality" might "freely come to ye Communion as formerly"
the reason put forward was the need for collections "for ye preservation of
the Poore," and not any solicitude for the spiritual welfare of the rich.35 Lady
Frances, daughter of Oliver Cromwell, was married at St. Martin's to Robert
Rich in November, 1657, and John Hampden, the younger, was christened
there on 21st March, 1652-3.
The question of the safety of the tower was first discussed by the
vestry in 1657. In his will,74 made in 1658, William Wheeler left five pounds
towards "the building of the Steeple of the parish Church of Saint Martin's,
in case the same Steeple beint built in my lyfe tyme." Nothing was done
until 1669, when the tower was re-cased with stone. Anthony Ellis, the
mason responsible for the work, did not fulfil his contract either in materials
or workmanship,3 and when, in 1680, Mr. Wise was given the order for
a new clock, the vestry took the precaution of ordering the churchwardens
not to make the final payment for it until "a considerable time after the said
new Clock shall be sett upp, to see that the same goe well." A new organ,
made by Father Smith, was installed in 1667, and was overhauled by "Mr.
Renatus" Harris circa 1699.
The best extant account of the old church is that given by Hatton75 in
1708: "This Church was very small till the Year 1 607, when that part which is
now the Chancel, was taken out of the Church-yard, and builded on, being an
Enlargement of about 1 third of what the Church and Chancel now contains,
as may easily be perceived by the Roof. And the old Church was about
that time repaired and beautified, the W. Doorcase having the Date 1609.
And the Situation of this Church being so far W[estwar]d as happily to escape
the dismal Flames of 1666, it was wholly new beautified within, in the Year
of Christ 1688, and again in 1701. The Enlargement was done partly at
the charge of King James the 1st, and Prince Henry; the rest at that of the
Parish.
"The Roof is cover'd with Tile, the Walls of Brick and Stone,
with a Finishing; but the Tower is of fine Stone, with strong Buttresses;
the Roof within is a little arched, and supported with Pillars, of the Tuscan
and Modern Gothick Orders; the Windows of the like Orders; and the
Floor of the Chancel is 2 Steps above that of the Nave of the Church.
"It is wainscotted about 6 Foot high with Oak, of which Timber
are also the Pews and Pulpit, the latter having a square sound Board, with
a Glory painted on the inside, and on the sides, I Cor. 9 and 16.
a "Dr. Wrenn surveyor of his Matles workes" was called in to give an estimate of the
"Carpenters worke" on the Lanthorn. Wren also received a fee of 5 shillings for "drawing a
draft of ye Cupilo" in 1672.36
23
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
"There are Galleries on the N, S, and W. sides of the Church painted
Deal; and at the entrance into the Chancel, the Aperture is adorned with
4 Columns, with their Entablature, of the Corinthian Order; above which
are placed the Queen's Arms carved, and Enrichments of Cherubims,
Figures of Plenty, &c, gilt with Gold.
"The Communion- Table is enclosed with Rail and Banister, and
the Foot-pace within is Marble ; over the Table is a Window, which is betn
the two Tables of the Commandments."
In 1 710 several master craftsmen were appointed to survey the
Church. They reported to the vestry: "We find That all the Walls round
the said Church being built with Rubble and decayed with time are spread
out by the Weight of the Roof and in all probability cannot long support
the Roof and in diverse places are only tyed in with severall Cramps of Iron.
Wee do also find That the Roof of the said Church is very defective. Wee
are also of opinion that the said Church cannot be supported by repairing
but must be rebuilt." 35 The vestry therefore petitioned the queen for assistance
in rebuilding; negotiations were carried out with the Commissioners for
Rebuilding Churches and finally, in 1 720, an act76 was passed for rebuilding
St. Martin's, the money, to a sum not exceeding £22,000, to be raised by a
rate on the parishioners. The act contained a clause authorising the purchase
of ground from Westminster Abbey for the enlargement of the churchyard
and a provision that the owners of Northumberland House in the Strand,
who had occupied a pew "in the Lords' Gallery on the South side" of the
Church 5 feet 6 inches in breadth and 6 feet in length, with a similar seat
for servants below should have equal space allotted them in the new
building.
A temporary church was erected partly on the churchyard and partly
on ground bought from the Dean and Chapter of Westminster in Lancaster
Court, and notices were inserted in the newspapers that bodies and monu-
ments of those buried in the old church or churchyard could be taken away
for reinterment by relatives. Among those removed was the alabaster
monument of Sir Amyas Paulet, which was set up in the church of Hinton
St. George. The rest of the monuments were stored in the temporary church
and afterwards transferred to the present crypt.
The Present Church.
The present church was erected from the designs of James Gibbs,a
who was selected for the appointment of surveyor by the rebuilding commis-
sioners. Gibbs submitted two designs for the new church one of which is
a Gibbs was a native of Aberdeen. About 1695 he went to Holland to study architec-
ture. There he met the Earl of Mar who assisted him to proceed to Rome for further studies and,
on Gibbs' return, was instrumental in having his name included in the list of architects who were
commissioned to carry out the work of building the fifty churches ordered to be built by an Act
of Parliament of Queen Anne. Gibbs' other works included the Radcliffe Library, Oxford, the
Senate House, Cambridge, Stowe House, Buckinghamshire, St. Nicholas' Church, Aberdeen, St.
Mary-le-Strand Church, and the steeple to St. Clement Dane's, London.
24
JAMES GIBBS
shown on Plates 10a and b. These were circular on plan, but they were
disapproved on account of expense, though according to Gibbs they were
" More capacious and convenient" than the design finally selected. The church
as carried out cost ^33,661 16s. 7§d., including the architect's fees. The
foundation stone was laid on 19th March, 1722, and the last stone of the
spire was placed in position in December, 1724.
The building is of Portland stone. With its commanding portico
and elegant steeple it forms a worthy example of Gibbs' work and is a
striking feature of Trafalgar Square, where its position at the north-
east corner enables it to be viewed to advantage. The hexastyle portico,
which is approached by a flight of steps, comprises eight columns of the
Corinthian order and is two intercolumniations in depth. The columns
support a pedimented entablature with the Royal Arms of George I with
supporters, crown and garter, carved on the tympanum. On the frieze is
inscribed the following:
D. SACRAM AEDEM: S. MARTINI PAROCHIANI
EXTRUI FEC. A.D. MDCCXXVI
and over the centre bay on the architrave is "IACOBI GIBBS ARCHI-
TECTUS." The soffit to the portico has deep coffers formed by ribs carved
with a guilloche. The order, which is raised on a deep plinth, continues
round the whole church and is surmounted by a balustraded parapet. The
wall surface to the sides is divided by pilasters into bays of two stages con-
taining arched windows with a plain band between. On the flanks are recessed
bays, with detached columns, containing pedimented entrance doorways. The
eastern end has a pedimented gable slightly breaking forward, with a carved
cartouche in the tympanum masking a circular louvred opening. The wall
surface is divided into three bays by pilasters with the large three-light
window to the chancel as the central feature. The steeple, which measures
192 ft. in height above the church floor, is square at the lower stages and
changes at the clock face to octagonal, finishing with a steeple surmounted
by a ball and weather-vane. It will be seen by referring to Plate 16 that
the interior of the upper stages is cylindrical in construction, the several
contractions in the design being formed by a series of domes.
The church, which stands upon an island site, has its yard at the
eastern end, the whole being enclosed by a high iron railing with heavy
cast iron standards. The eastern and southern ends have a rusticated dwarf
wall to carry the railings. Similar railings with double gates are continued
between the columns to the portico, at the top of the flight of steps. The
steps and landing have undergone certain alterations owing to the footway
requirements.
The plan of the church is rectangular (Plate 11). The nave is
divided from the aisles by a series of five bays of Corinthian columns. The
galleries over the aisles are continued across at the western end over the last
bay of the nave. At the eastern end the nave is reduced in width by two coved
quadrants culminating in the formation of the sanctuary. On either side
25
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
are the vestries and lobbies with stairs giving access to the private pewsa
above and the galleries. At the western end are the side entrance lobbies
with staircases leading to the crypt and galleries and the main circular lobby
to the lower stage of the steeple. The columns to the main body of the
church stand on high panelled pedestals and have block entablatures from
which spring the main ribs of the nave and aisle ceilings. Between the
columns are semi-circular arches forming vaulted spandrels. The nave
ceiling is semi-elliptical and is divided into panels by ribs enriched with the
guilloche, while the panels are decorated with cherubim, clouds, shells,
and scroll work, being the work of the famous
Italian artists, Signori Artari and Bagutti. Over
the chancel arch are the Royal Arms. The aisles
have shallow domes supported on pendentives
which on the wall side spring from consoles, con-
sisting of cherub heads below a blocked cornice.
The chancel arch is semi-elliptical, the ceiling to
the sanctuary being complementary.
The general effect of the interior, which is
one of lightness and spaciousness, is produced by
the amount of ornamental plaster work, and by the
windows being in two stages, thereby obviating any
interruption by the galleries.
The Crypt has a brick groined barrel vaulted
ceiling springing from square piers which are
governed by the positions of the columns to the
main body of the church above. The floor to the
southern bays is paved with old gravestones. Other
stones have been erected against the walls and in
some cases monuments have been fixed on the brick
piers. Fragments of cartouches and other remains
of monuments from the former church are also
preserved.b There is a very good wooden model
of the church in the crypt. This was prepared by Gibbs and cost ^71 10s.
A whipping post, a sketch of which is given here, is also preserved.
a At the eastern end on either side were the Royal Box and the Royal Household pews.
The windows originally had glazed sashes overlooking the sanctuary. These windows form an
uncommon feature, as do also the iron balcony fronts in the galleries over the doorways.
b On one of the piers is fixed a carved roundel with an achievement of arms (Plate 32(5).
The arms are quarterly of eight : I . [Or] a cheveron cheeky [gules] and [azure] between three
cinqfoils [azure], with a crescent for difference — COOKE ; 2. [Sable] a fesse between three broad-
arrow heads [argent] — MALPAS ; 3. [Or] an eagle with two heads [sable] — ?; 4. [Azure] three
eagles bendwise between two cotises [argent] — BELKNAP ; 5. [Gules] a fesse cheeky [argent
and sable] between six crosses forming fitchy [argent] — BUTLER ; 6. [Or] two bends [gules] —
SUDLEY ; 7. Bendy of ten pieces [azure and or]— MOUNTFORD ; 8. ... a lion in a
border . . .? The crest is a unicorn's head [or] between two wings [azure]. The arms and crest
are probably those of Sir Hercules Francis Cooke, 2nd son of Sir Anthony Cooke of Giddea Hall,
steward of Havering atte Bower and J.P. for Essex in 1634. Hatton describes "a spacious Marble
Tomb and Monument" erected on the south side of the chancel of the old church by Frances
Cooke to her husband, William Cooke (owner of ground which formed part of the site of
Northumberland House, see Volume XVIII), and a son of Sir Anthony Cooke. A lozenge with
coat of arms from this monument is also preserved and is attached to a pier in the crypt.
26
THE CHURCH FITTINGS
Font rails
Fittings
Bells. — There is a fine peal of twelve bells and a sanctus bell which,
with three exceptions, were recast in 1725 at a cost of £1,264 *8s. 3d.
All the bells bear inscriptions, records of their casting and in certain
cases the names of the churchwardens.3
Bust. — The bust of Gibbs which stands on a marble pedestal at the
west end of the church is by Rysbrach (Plate 27a).
Chest. — In the crypt is an elm chest 22 in. by 5 ft. 7^ in. by 24 in.
The lid is 2-| in. in thickness. In the Churchwardens' Accounts for
Michaelmas Quarter, 1597, are records of its construction and fittings.
Communion Rails. —
These are in wrought-iron
divided into bays with inter-
spacings of balusters and
finished with a mahogany
moulded rail.
Font. — There is no re-
cord of the mediaeval font, but
the present one, presented by
William Bridgeman in 1689,
which consists of an elliptical
grained marble basin sup-
ported on a spirally fluted and foliated pedestal with a carved oak cover, was
removed from the earlier church (Plate 27^). The cover narrowly escaped
destruction, as it was sold by one of the
churchwardens in 1 845',whoconsidered
it to be of no value. It was subsequently
recovered from an antique dealer.
The enclosing rail round the font is
the altar rail of the former church of
St. Matthew, Spring Gardens.
Glass. — The following extract
from the Church Building Accounts77
refers to the chancel window —
"1726, September 26th. — By painting the glass of the east
window of St. Martin's Church — James and William Price — £130."
The window was described by Gibbs as a large Venetian window with orna-
mental stained glass, and is shown in a print of 1809. It was probably in
position until 1867 when the present window by Clayton and Bell, depicting
the Ascension, was inserted. The other windows of the church are filled
with mid-Victorian stained glass.
Organ Case. — The first organ was the gift of King George I as
compensation for his inability to carry out the duties of churchwarden. It
a Particulars of the inscriptions are given in John Mc Master's "St. Martin-in-the-
FieUs," 1 9 1 6.
D 27
Communion rails
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
was built by Christopher Schrider, a son-in-law of Father Smith, and cost
£1,500. In 1799 this organ was sold for £200 to the Church of St. Mary,
Wotton-Under-Edge, Gloucestershire, where it still remains. It bears the
inscription: "The gift of His Most Sacred Majesty King George, 1726"
on the front (Plate 22a). A larger organ was provided, but was replaced
in 1854 by one built by Messrs. Bevington. This has been several times
extensively overhauled and partially reconstructed.
Peal Boards. — There are two gilt peal boards in the crypt with carved
frames. They are painted black with gilt lettering. The one on the south
wall records that in 1727 the Society of London Scholars rang the "First
Compleat Peal of Six Thousand Cinques," while the other, on the north
wall, states that the College of Youths in 1788 rang "a Compleat Peal of
6204 Cinques on Steadman's Principle" in 4 hrs. 47 mins.
Pulpit. — The pulpit, originally a three-decker with an
elaborate sounding board, was formerly set up on the north
side of the church. Plate No. 2 in Hogarth's series "Industry
and Idleness" (The Industrious 'Prentice Performing the Duties
of a Christian), published in 1747, shows the pulpit in its
original condition as a three-decker with a staircase. The
plate is reversed and therefore shows the pulpit on the south
side of the church. The original drawings, reproduced on
Plates 25a and b, show it on the north side. In Prebendary
Humphrey's time (18 55-1 886) it was re-erected on the south
side of the nave without the sounding board, and the reading
desk and clerk's pew were taken away.
The pulpit is of oak, hexagonal on plan, and is sup-
ported on a hexagonal shaped stem with a high base moulding.
The panels to the main surface are inlaid, the front panel
bearing the sacred monogram and the side panels stars. The
bolection moulding to the lower edge has a well carved foliated
design and below are cherubs' heads in strong relief, while the
top ledge is finished with escallop ornament. The pulpit plat-
form is approached by a segmental flight of steps with carved
spandrel brackets, spiral balusters, three to a tread, and a
moulded handrail which finishes over turned newels at the
A portion of the stairs has a panelled spandrel filling (Plate 24).
Pews. — The disposition of the seating in the church has undergone
many changes. In 1799 the whole of the church contained high pews, the
height of the pedestals to the columns. The present seating, including
the rearrangement of the sanctuary, was carried out in the middle of the
19th century. The pews are panelled in oak and the end rows have high
backs with the top panels carved and finished with a carved capping. The
walls of the church have a high oak panelled wainscoting and moulded
capping. Similar panelling is continued in the vestries.
Stairs. — The staircases to the corner lobbies leading to the galleries
are in oak and have moulded close strings with their balusters turned. The
28
Detail of stair
balustrading
foot.
THE CHURCH PLATE
moulded handrail finishes as a capping to the square newels. The wall dados
and spandrel fillings are also panelled in oak.
The Church Plate.
The changes brought about by the Reformation are indicated by
items in the Churchwardens' Accounts for 1558-59 for the sale of the chalice,
weighing io§- oz., and its replacement by a communion cup, weighing
12J oz.
All the early plate, comprising 4 silver gilt cups with 4 silver gilt
covers, 3 silver gilt pots, one silver charger and one silver gilt flagon were
stolen on 25th September, 1649.78 The flagon, which bears the hallmark
1634, was recovered, probably in a damaged condition, as it has an 1 8th
century base, but the remainder is presumed to have been melted down.
The present church plate, which is of silver gilt, dates mainly from the
late 1 7th and early 1 8th centuries.2 Except for the articles in current use
it is now kept at the London Museum (Plate 33).
a There is an entry of a payment of £64 15s. on nth November, 1726 "to Mr.
Darker Goldsmith for Gilding and Altering the Communion plate and New Plate in exchange for
the old."
29
I
o
0
MONUMENTS
MONUMENTS AND WALL TABLETS IN THE CRYPT OF
ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS
i. NATHANAEL HARDY
On a tablet within a carved border —
Heic, Lector,
quicquid mortale habuit Depofuit.
NATHANAEL HARDY, S.T.D.
Ecclesiae Roffensis Decanus,
Verbi Divini Fidus & Strenuus Administer,
Primum ad SV Dionysij apud Ciues Londinenses,
Deinde ad Divi Martini apud Visimonasterienses;
Vtriusq; Vrbis Populo Charus pariter ac Verendus.
Talem nim praestabant
Solidum Judicium, exprompta Memoria,
Animus Indefefsus, Afsidua Exercitatio,
Methodus Facilis, Sensus Accommodus,
Verborum Copia, Vox Canora:
Omnes eae Dotes, quibus Instructus
Operam fuam & Deo & Gregi Egregie probavit.
Quum per Annos XXXII sacram Provinciam
Concionibus, Curis, Vigilijs,
Quibus semet Exhaufit, Implefset;
In Caelos praematur. Accitus,
(Quo Tot Animas suo Ductu Praeijfse Viderat,
Tot Vidit Secuturas,)
Civicam Coronam Indeptus est,
Anno Salutis MDCLXX JEmis LII Die.
CATHERINE WINGFIELD
A tablet with scroll work surround —
Viator
Saxa loqui, mceftas hac fundere marmora guttas
Non mirum facet hoc fcemina quanta loco
Sedula qua; vixit mundanis Martha marito
Chafta Sarah Crifto fida Maria fuit
Talis Erat
Catherina filia Thoma Wincfeild de
Letherincham in Comitatv Svffolciae
Eqvitis avrati e familia Eqvestri
GLORIA ET AnTIQVA NOBILITATE ADMO=
DVM INSIGNI, VXOR FraNCISCI BaCON
Armigeri filij Edoardi Bacon de
Strvbland in dicto comitata Armigeri
OBIJT 23 DIE OcTOBRIS
Anno Domini mdclx.
31
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
3. FRANCES JONES
Here lyes buried the body of
Mtris FRANCES IONES daughter of ARTHVR
Lord vicecount of Ranelagh, by his wife ye
Lady KATHERINE BOYLE, who was daughter
to RICHARD BOYLE Earl of Corke, and Lord
high Trefuror of Ireland.
She dyed in the prime of her Age, haue-
ing neuer been marryed, the XXVIII of
March in the yeare MDCLXXII.
Enough; and leaue the reft to Fame;
'Tis to Commend her but to name.
Courtfhip, which Liueing fhe declin'd,
When dead to ofFer; were unkind.
Where neuer any could fpeake ill,
Who would officious Praifes fpill ?
Nor can the trueft Wit or Friend
Without Detracting her Commend.
To fay fhe liu'd A Virgin Chaft.
In this Age loofe and all unlac'd;
Nor was, where vice is so allow'd,
Of virtue or Afham'd or Proud;
That her Soule was on heau'n fo bent,
No minute but it Came and Went;
That, ready her laft debt to pay,
She fumm'd her life vp euery day;
Modeft, as Morne, as Midday, Bright;
Gentle, as Euening, Coole, as Night;
'Tis true, but all so weakly faid,
'Twere more Significant: She's Dead.
4. EDITH BILSON
An oval inscription tablet, with a shield of arms on each side. Reclining on the upper edge
of the oval tablet are two sleeping cherubim. The top is defaced. The flanks of the lower portion
are draped. A segmental tablet at the base flanked with consoles forms an apron (Plate 28a).
Here
lyes the body of
Edith Bilson
Dauchter & Heire to
Peter Bettesworth
of Fining in y covnt: of svss: esq
who finishing her short covrs
in a virtvovs & pious life,
with great indearments of
conivgall affection: was taken
ovt of this world by a death,
(alas to early to all bvt
to her selfe,) to rest in
the Lord, aged 28.
March 14: 1651.
(The following inscription occurs below)
To WHOSE MOST BELOVED
& EVER DEAREST MEMORY
HER SADDEST HvSBAND
T: B:
Er: y Mon:
32
ELIZABETH MACDOWALL
5. [Charlotte Ann Broome, wife of Clement Francis Esq., and of Ralph Broome Esq. 12th
September, 1838.]
6. [Richard Harris Esq., of Bedford Place, Kensington, and late of Stangate Street, Lambeth.
16th May, 1835. Aged 72.
Ann Harris, wife of the above. loth January, 1 841. Aged 75.]
7. [George Fox Esq., of 28, King Street, Covent Garden. 19th March, 1832. Aged 67.]
8. [Susanna Harvey. 1 8th January, 1837. Aged 68. Mr. James Harvey, husband of the above.
22nd August, 1847. Aged 74.]
9. [Sarah Ann Bell, wife of Joseph Taylor, nth October, 1835. Aged 34.]
10. JOHN STEWARD (broken stone)
VIVO RESVRGAM
LONCAEVAE MEMORIAE
PATRVI SVI VIRI OPTIMI IOHANNIS STEWARD
ARMIGERI, ACADEMICA ET CASTRENSI DISCIPLINA
EDVCATI SERENISSIMIS RECINIS, ANNAE ET MARIAE
PER LONGAM ANNORVM SERIEM A NOBILIORE
ANTEAMBVLONVM ORDINE.
HAECCE MARMORA CANDORIS EIVS ET GRAVITATIS
STMBOLA, SACRABAT LACRYMANS RICHARDVS
OR
steward ll:d: decan: CICESTRENSIS
obijt 14 novemb: ano dnT: 1633, aetatis svae 71.
11. [Elizabeth Leycester, widow of the Rev. Oswald Leycester. 3rd November, 1848. Aged 79.]
12. [Charles James Payne and his wife, Elizabeth Shutter Payne.]
13. ELIZABETH MACDOWALL
A tablet flanked by standing cherubim holding above a bust of the deceased. Below the
inscription is a shield of arms and leafage. Arms: Macdowall — {Azure) a lion (argent) collared
with an antique crown (or) impaling Jolly — (Argent) a molet (gules) between three broad-arrow heads
(sable). (Plate 283.)
Sacred to the surviving vermes,
of y Pious Prudent and euery way deferv
Ml ELIZabeth Macdowall
Daughter of David jolly Gent.
wife of Andrew Macdowall
of this parish, who as y I aft Teftimoniall
of his sincere affection. Recomends this
marble to her memory and her example
to all worthy weomen
died y 28 of sept 1670 aged 30,
Neere this marble shrine doth lie,
the summe of, Faith, Hope, Charity,
the well couch t, abj "tract of her creed,
a foule fyncere in zvord and Deed,
in life soe kinde, in Death soe Calme,
Her whole compofure feemd one Pfame,
Thund to Heaven where now fhee fings,
New Anthems to the King of Kings
33
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
14. [Mr. Richard Armistead of Salisbury Street. 26th July, 1840. Aged 68.]
15. [Julia Watts, wife of Mr. Francis Watts of New Street and Vincent Square, Westminster.
13th June, 1837. Aged 39. And her children, Richard Harris Watts. 15th April, 1837.
Aged 5. Charlotte Victoria Watts. 28th June, 1837. Aged 6 weeks.
Mrs. Louisa Watts, mother of Francis Watts. 15th December, 1838. Aged 75.]
16. JOHN BLACKMAN
JOHN LUCIE BLACKMAN
ESQ?
OBIJT IOT.H JANY
1797-
AETAT 62.
17. [Mr. Robert Stone of Panton Street. 1st November, 1832. Aged 70.
Mr. James Stone, youngest son of the above. 21st December, 1836. Aged 28.
Robert Stone, son of William and Mary Ann Stone. 21st July, 1837. Aged I year 9 months.
Mrs. Mary Ann Stone, wife of Mr. William Stone. 9th February, 1838. Aged 24.
Mr. Robert Stone, eldest son of the above-named Mr. Robert Stone of Panton Street. 9th
February, 1842. Aged 49.
Mrs. Nancy Stone, widow of the first named Mr. Robert Stone. 29th October, 1 846. Aged
78.
Frances, second daughter of the above. 13th January, 1848. Aged 58.
Robert Stone, second son of William and Mary Ann Stone. 16th November, 1852. Aged 14.]
18. [Ellen Prothero, wife of David Prothero, clerk, of Llwynhelig, Carmarthen. 31st May, 1834.
Aged 55.]
19. MOSES HART
This is erected
In Memory of MOSES HART
Churchwarden of this Parish
(for that Year) who departed
this Life April 15'?, 1771 Aged 59.
20. [Mary Clarke. 8th July, 1837. Aged 71.
Robert George Clarke E6q. of Parliament Street, husband of the above. 5th October, 1839.
Aged 68.]
21. JANE JACKSON
A draped tablet surmounted by a winged cherub-head and foliage; below the inscrip-
tion a skull flanked by foliage. (Plate 29*.)
Here lyeth the body
of Mra lane Iackson, former-
ly Servant to the Countes
Dowager, of the Right Ho.
ble
nor: Robert Earle of Lindfey
Generall of his Ma : forces
at Edgehill, by the space
of 30 yeares, who depart-
ed this life the 26 of May
Anno Domi: 1670.
Aged 70 odd yeares.
34
JOHANNA MILLER
22. [William Slaughter Esq. ist November, 1 831. Aged 48.]
23. JOHANNA MILLER
A tablet surmounted by a cartouche containing a lozenge and foliated scroll work, flanked
by decorative consoles and swags of fruit, and below a winged cherub's head. (Plate 29^.)
Near thif place lyeth
the body of Iohanna
eldeft Daughter of Ioh"
MIller: late of Nether-
Wallop: in y County
of Southhamton, Esq: dece-
•fed & of Esther hif
Wife: fince Wife & now
relict of y Ri*, Honerw
Lord Henry Powlet
Decefed: who depar-
ted thif life y 13th, daye
of February: 1673
24. [William Randall. 7th January, 1813. Aged 29.
William Bright Randall, son of the above, ist December, 1840. Aged 29.]
2;. [Maria Augusta Murray. 26th March, 1840. Aged 29.]
26. [Mr. Andrew Hunter of the Haymarket. 14th May, 1837. Aged 64.]
27. ROBERT CLAYTON
Hie juxta situs est
ROBERTVS CLAYTON ARMIG*
Qui
Literis ad quas natus as suet us
Olim Scholae Regiae IVestmonast.
Alumnus;
Hinc Trin. Coll Cantabr.
Discipulus;
Templi demum Interioris
Socius;
Vbiqi loci deficiae, et decus,
Ingenio pariter praecoci, acfato
Quo functus est
Decemb: 13: Anno Dom:
1676
Act at. suae: 28.
28. GEORGE WILSON
GEORGE WILSON
DIED IANUART 22D I788.
ACED 35 YEARS.
35
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
29. MARGARET WHITE
A tablet flanked with consoles and surmounted by a skull between scrolls. The tablet
stands on a moulded shelf with a shaped apron below (Plate 30).
Nere This Place Lyeth
y° Body of Margaret,
Late Wife of Ioseph~
White, who dyed y" 7th
of Iuly 1687,
Aged 3 1 years
A Friendly Naighbour W A Virtious Wife
Doubtlefse She's Blefs'dwih Everlafting Life
30. [Mrs. Elizabeth Brooke, wife of Henry Vaughan Brooke Esq. of Co. Donegal, Ireland. 27th
November, 1803. Aged 34.]
31. JOHN VILETT
HERE
lies depofited
The Remains of
W. JOHN VILETT
Son of the Late
JOHN VILETT
of S . . .
MDCCLXXIX
32. [Mrs. Mary Downing, 12th January, 1802. Aged ?
Mr. George Downing, husband of the above. 12th January, 1823. Aged 84.]
33. CHARLES SLIPPER
Sacred to the Memory
OF
M' CHARLES SLIPPER,
Who died at the Age of 50 Years;
The 16. DAY of March, 1798.
34. [Mrs. Ann Tayler of this parish. 13th November, 18 17. Aged 60.
Mr. William Tayler, husband of the above. 14th December, 1803. Aged 49.
Jane Tayler, daughter of the above. 12th July, 1806. Aged 9 years 10 months.
Mrs. Ann Tayler, daughter of the first-named Mrs. Ann Tayler. 30th June, 1817. Aged 34.]
35. [Mr. George Galley. 6th August, 1806. Aged 72.]
36. SARAH REEVES
In Memory of
M1? SARAH REEVES
who died 28'!> of October 1786
Aged 74 Years.
Alfo M^ WILLIAM REEVES,
who died 27'!" of December 1789.
Aged 64 Years.
37. [Mrs. Mary Molteno, wife of Mr. Anthony Molteno of Pall Mall. 12th February, 1810.
Aged 52.]
38. [Mary Yerbury, wife of Mr. Richard Yerbury of this parish. 5th September, 18 16. Aged 67.]
36
COLONEL THOMAS FRASER
39. JOHN MONEY
Here lieth
The Body of
JOHN MONEY,
late of this Parifh; died
i8l.h Jan'T 1796, Aged 48 years.
SUSANNA MONEY
Daughter of the above, died
26*?" Nov^ 1796, Aged 5 Months.
40. MARGARET KNIGHT
MARGARET KNIGHT, widow, Buryed in y middle He, Mar. y 3d 1677 in y 8i" year of
her age Daughter & Heir of IOHN FALDO of Bedfordshire Esq & ANN GRAVELY of
Gravely in Hartford=shire firft marryed to IOHN BERKEHEAD Gent & afterwards to
STEPHEN KNIGHT Esq was a moft exemplary Wife Mother & Friend & so generally
obliging as if born for any rather than herfelf of her eleven Children HENRY BERKEHEAD
survives, & MARY KNIGHT which laft erected this Moniment.
41. ROBERT HASTINGS and DAVID WILLIAMS
Near this Place lie the Remains of
M' ROBERT HASTINGS.
Late of the Parish of S^ Mary le Strand
who died the i6'.b day of February 1789,
Aged 40 Years.
Also lies interred the Body of
Mr. DAVID WILLIAMS,
Late of the above named Parish,
who died the 31s? day of May 1792,
Aged 39 Years.
42. [Mr. John Willson, senior, of Bear Street. 28th December, 1809. Aged 87.
Mrs. Elizabeth Willson, wife of the above. 27th November, 1803. Aged 77.]
43. COLONEL THOMAS FRASER
Tablet surmounted by an oval cartouche containing a shield and a trophy of Roman
arms. (Plate 31^.)
Near this Place lie the Remains of
COLONEL THOMAS FRASER,
Lieu'. Colonel of the firft, or
Royal Regiment of Foot:
and
Lieu'. Governor ofChefter:
He alfo ferved as Brigadier General
in courfe of the late War
in America.
In his early Days he entered
into The Profeffion of ARMS;
and,
after ferving his King and Country
5 5 Years with Zeal and Honour,
from the rank of a private soldier arrived at
the above-mentioned, during which period he Copied
often distinguished himself upon service, and from
in his singular Probity and Benevolence was previous
dear to his friends. Esteemed and beloved by record,
all who knew him.
Nov^ 5, 1756.
37
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
44. [Mr. Alexander Christopher Haliday. 21st September, 1826. Aged 34. (Family grave.)]
45. [John Irwin Esq. of Sligo, Ireland. Surgeon to H.M. Forces on the expedition to the Scheldt.
22nd April, 1 8 10. Aged 38.]
46. THOMAS EVANS
This monvment is made for Thomas Evans Gentleman borne
E
AT HENLLAN IN Y COVN
of Denbich: who served abovt XXX YEARS AS
E
ordinarie messenger atendince y
GREAT SEALE OF ENGLAND: VIZ. IN Y TYMES OF S"? Tho:
Bromley & S? Chris? Hatton
Lo: Chauncelors. S? Iohn Pvckeringe Lo: Keeper:
& S?Tho: Egerton Lo: Ellesmere
& Lo: Chavncelor: he was also abovt xiii years
E
LAST BEFORE HIS DEATH ONE OF Y
E
FOVRE ORDINARIE MESSENGERS OF Y RECEIPT
OF Y EXCHEQVER: HE GAVE BY HIS LAST
WILL DIVERS GOOD & CHARITABLE LEGACIES: VIZ.
FYFTYE POVND FOR A STOCK TO CON
TYNEW FOR EVER, THAT Y YEARLIE PROFIT THEREOF
RAYSED MIGHT BE IMPLOYED TO
Y REPAYRE OF Y CHVRCH WHERE HIS BODYE SHOLD
BE INTERRED". ALSO FYFTE POVND
FOR A STOCK TO BE IN LYKE MANNER IMPLOYED FOR
Y REPAYRE OF CHELSEY ChVRCH
E
& OTHER FYFTYE POVND TO BE IMPLOYED FOR Y
RELEEFE OF Y PPORE WITHN Y SAYD
E
PARISH OF CHELSEY: ALSO FYFTIE POVND FOR Y
LYKE RELEEFE OF Y POORE WTHIN THIS
PARISH ST MARTINS IN Y FIELDS & ONE HVNDRETH
E
POVNDS TOWARDS Y BVYLDINGE
OF HOWSES ON Y NEW CHVRCH YARD IN THIS SAID
PARISH OF ST MARTINS TO BE
FOR Y BENEFITT OF Y POORE OF THIS SAYD PARISH:
HE GAVE ALSO DIVERS GOOD
LEGACIES TO SONDRYE OF HIS KINRED & FRENDS
& HAVINGE ACCOMPLISHED
y age of 78 yeares lam coelo fruitur terra
curifque relictis
47. [Miss Martha Oliphant, daughter of Mr. James Oliphant. 5th January, 1822. Aged 50.
Miss Susannah Oliphant, sister of the above. 29th March, 1830. Aged 65.]
48. [John Tindall of this parish. 26th December, 1818. Aged 69.
Jane Tindall, wife of the above and seven of their children.]
38
MARY AUSTIN
49. MARY AUSTIN
In Memory of
M* MARY AUSTIN
who died December the 28th 1787
Aged 26 Years.
50. [Elizabeth Henvill, daughter of Edward and Jane Henvill of Charminster, Dorset. 17th
August, 1 80-. Aged 16.]
51. [ Warner, of Leicester Fields. November, 181 3. Aged 40.]
52. ANN RAMUS
Near this spot lies the
Body of MRS ANN RAMUS
who died Nov'. 5*.h 1777
Aged 43 Years.
Also two of her children
ANN & LOUSIA(>)
Who Died in their Infancy.
Alfo
M» LOUIS RAMUS.
Who died JanY 3o'.h 1789
Aged 63 Years.
53. [George, son of Joseph and Mary Arundell of this parish. 9th December, 1801. Aged 2.
Richard, son of the same. 1st March, 1802. Aged 13 months.
Mary, daughter of the same. 2nd April, 1807?. Aged 13 months.]
54. ELIZABETH SHAW
HERE
Lieth the Body of
ELIZABETH SHAW
Wife of GEO. SHAW & Daughter of
THOMAS & ELIZ. BRUSHFIELD
who departed this life April 3"? 1786
In the 79l.b Year of her Age
Alfo GEORGE SHAW (Hufband of
the above) died Augst the 2nd 1791
In Year his Age
55. [Benjamin Field?. 1 8th March, 1803. Aged 47.]
56. [Mary Laing, wife of Charles Laing of this parish. 4th December, 1810. Aged 56.]
57. ELIZABETH HOLROYD
Near
This Stone Lyeth the
Body of Mrs ELIZABETH
HOLROYD Wife of
JOSEPH HOLROYD
of this Parifh who Died
Dec* 26th 1770 Aged 34 Years
Also the Daughter of the Said
ELIZABETH HOLROYD
Aged 12 Days
LOUISA HOLROYD.
Dyed JanY the 9l.h 1780
Aged Five Months.
39
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
58. SARAH AYRES
In Memory of
SARAH ELIZA AYRES
Daughter of
& ANN AYRES
who departed this Life the 17th of [?] 1796
MR JAMES AYRES
who departed this Life the 12th of Jan? 1789
Aged 46 Years.
59. MARY WHITWORTH
.... MARY WHITWORTH
DIED l80-
AGED
ALSO JOS" WHITWORTH
DIED MARCH 1 6™ l8l2
AGED 46 YEARS
HE WAS A DUTIFUL SON
AND AN AFFECTIONATE BROTHER.
60. SARAH BROWN
Near this Place
lies SARAH Wife of
ISAAC BROWN of this Parifh
A Woman of uncommon Merit
exemplary in every State of Life
habitually good & virtuous:
to whose Memory, her afflicted
Hufband, as a Tribute of Gratitude,
has plac'd this Stone, She died in
Child Bed, refigning Herfelf entirely
to the Will of God on the 4l.h May 1770.
Aged 26 Year.
In the same Grave, are interr'd the
Bodies of GEORGE & LOUISA,
Son, & Daughter, of the above,
ISAAC & SARAH BROWN,
who both dy'd in their Infancy,
also Mr ISAAC BROWN
Died Dec* 17th 1801 Aged 59.
61. JOSEPH TOMLINSON
Sacred
To the Memory of
M^ Joseph Tomlinson
Late of Scotland Yard
who departed this life January 5V1 1822
in the 78l.h Year of his age.
Alfo of Mre Ann Tomlinson
Wife of the above
who departed this Life Dec. i9*.h 18 17
in the 58th Year of her age.
40
MARY BLOMFIELD
62. MARY BLOMFIELD
Sacred
To the Memory of
MARY, the Wife of SAML BLOMFIELD
who departed this Life the I Ith of
November 1776 Aged 61 Years.
Alfo of
JOANNA the Wife of THO? SIMPSON
and Neece of the aforefaid
who departed this Life the 7l.h of
June 1787, Aged 28th Years.
And alfo of the above mentioned
Mr SAMUEL BLOMFIELD
whofe Remains are depofited in the
adjoining Grave on the Left of his Wife
He departed this Life the 22d Day of
February 1792, Aged near
A Loving Hufband, a tender Father,
and a fincere Friend.
63. GEORGE DALSTON
SACRED
To the Memory of
Mr George Dalston.
of O ULTON in the Parifh of
W1GTON Cumberland.
who departed tins Life on
the l8l.h of June 1791 Aged 47 Years
Also M1? Hannah Dalston.
Wife of the above
M* George Dalston
who departed this Life on
the I21!1 of June 1795. Aged 66 Years.
64. MARTHA MANSFIELD
Here lies
the Body of
M1? Martha Mansfield
in the Parish of S' Martin's
who died the \cfi ■
65. THOMAS ORPIN
1767 Aged 38 Years
Likewise the Body of
M1? Rebecca Cross of
the Aforesaid Parish and Sister of
the above Mre Mansfield who
died of March 1772
Aged 35 Years.
In Memory of
Mr Thomas Orpin
who departed this Life
December 1768 Aged 45 Years
Alfo Mr James Orpin
Son of the above nam'd
who Departed this Life
Aged 25 Years
41
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
66. EDWARD DIC
MEMORY OF
Mr Edward dic
who died March 1780
Aged 67 Years
Alfo near this Place lieth
Nine Children
67. [Samuel Sutton. 4th October, ? Aged 65.
Samuel Sutton, son of the above. 4th June, 1806. Aged 26.]
68. MARY DIMOND
In Memory of
M? MARY DIMOND
Wife of Mr THOMAS DIMOND
who died February the 1798
Aged 21 Years
Alfo of WILLIAM DIMOND
Son of the above
who died June the 2 5'.h 1798
Aged 5 Months
Alfo THOMAS DIMOND. Hufband
of the above MARY DIMOND
died July the 8th 1799 aged 24 Years.
69. THOMAS SEARLE
M^ THOMAS SEARLE,
died February i6'.h 179 1,
Aged 76 Years.
M^ THOMAS BELCHER SEARLE,
died February ltf* 1803, aged 32.
Mifs JULIANA SEARLE,
died September 74.h 1806, aged 31.
Mr? ANN SEARLE,
Wife of the above-named
M*. THOMAS SEARLE:
died April 7'.h 1823, Aged 100 Years.
70. SAMUEL WATKINS
SACRED
TO THE MEMORT OF
W. SAMUEL WATKINS
OfthisParifh
Surgeon,
Who departed this Life Jan 29l.b
1795 Aged 34 Years.
71. [Mrs. Mary Spice. 26th January, 1828. Aged 42.]
72. [Mrs. Edith Murray of this parish. 29th March, 181 3. Aged 74.]
42
THE REVEREND CHARLES BATE
73. REV CHARLES BATE
Here lieth
the Remains of the
Rev"? Mr CHARLES
BATE Who departed this
Life the 5^ of Nov' 1770.
Aged 49 Years.
He was the Beft of Hufbands
& Fathers. And tho' moft un-
-fortunate thro' Life; he ne-
-ver failed in his Duty to
God, and died as he lived
in every Refpect a good
Chriftian.
74. MARTHA STUBBS
Memory of
MARTHA STUBBS
who departed this Life
the 2n.d of October 1791
Aged 81 Years.
75. [Elizabeth, wife of Daniel Sutherland. 21st February, 1800. Aged 39.
Mrs. Sarah Sutherland, also wife of Daniel Sutherland. 7th October, 18 14. Aged 34.]
76. [Alexander Grant. 14th June, 1805. Aged 20 days.
Isabella Grant. 25th December, 1809. Aged 5 months 8 days. Children of John and Louisa
Grant.]
77. [Susannah Morris, wife of Joseph Morris. 12th January, 1802. Aged 35.]
78. [William Leigh. 20th October, 1824. Aged 70. Remains of Richard Leigh and Mary his
wife, parents of the above interred nearby. 1782.]
79. [George West, son of Samuel and Mary West late of St. Martin's Lane. 13th June, 18]
Aged 1 3 months.]
80. [Mr. Alexander Stark of this parish. 14th October, 1818. Aged 50.
Mrs. Mary Stark, wife of the above. 19th March, 1812. Aged 52.
Alfred Jno. Shepley Stark, son of Alexander Stark and Frances, his wife. 30th December,
1818. Aged 2.
An infant daughter of the same. 26th December, 18 13.]
E 43
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
81. ANNE BRADBURY
Here lie the Remains of
ANNE BRADBURY
Daughter of SILAS & ANNE BRADBURY
of this Parif h
who Died February 2o'.h 1774.
Aged 6 Years and 5 Months.
Here alfo Lie the Remains of
the faid ANNE BRADBURY
who Departed this Life
on the 24^ September 1774.
Aged 35 Years.
Remember, Man as thou goest by
As thou are Now, so Once was I
As I am Now, so must thou be
Prepare thyself to follow Me
Alfo the Remains of '
Mr RICHARD BRADBURY, Who
Died September Aged Years
82. [Mrs. Jane Todd of this parish. 12th May, 1805. Aged 35.
Charlotte, daughter of the above and an infant, Edward, son of the above. 1 7th May, 1 8 1 1 .
Aged 7 years 8 months.]
83. [Mr. George Veale of this parish, 27th , 1790. Aged 63.
Mrs. Ann Veale. 30th April, 1812. Aged 80.]
84. [Mr. Charles Adlard. 9th February, 1825. Aged 48.]
85. [Mary, daughter of William and Ann Stone. 29th May, 1806. Aged 1 year 5 months.]
86. [Mrs. Mary Ann Lloyd of this parish. 27th January, 1824. Aged 56.
George Frederick Lloyd, son of John and Sarah Lloyd. 22nd April, 1826. Aged 15 months.]
87. [Eliza Frances Carey, daughter of John and Frances Carey of this parish. 28th June, 1763.
Aged 2 years 5 months.
Honour Pitt Carey, sister of the above. 10th July, 1805. Aged 9 years 9 months.J
88. [Daniel Spilman Todd, son of George Todd of Aukborough near Brigg, Lines. 22nd Septem-
ber, 1806. Aged 20.]
89. [Thomas Morgan Varnham, gent, of this parish. 26th March, 1809. Aged 56.]
90. JOSEPH AND MARGARET CHRISTIAN'S THREE SONS
Near this place lies buried
the bodies of three Sons of
JOSEPH and MARGARET CHRISTIAN
of this Parish,
THOMAS the — Son died 14th Feb. 1783
Aged 3 Months
THOMAS the — Son died 14th May 1788
Aged 1 1 Months
IOHN the — Son died 9th May 1790
Aged 1 1 Years and 10 Months.
44
ROBERT CLEGHORN
91. [Mr. John Taylor, clerk of this church. 23rd February, . Aged 77.
Mrs. Mary Taylor, wife of the above. 20th March, 1828. Aged 72.
Jane Taylor, granddaughter of the above. 6th February, 182-.]
92. ROBERT CLEGHORN
In memory of
MR ROBERT CLEGHORN
who died Decern the 1.1785
in the 50. Year of his Age.
Also MARGARET CLEGHORN
Wife of the above ROBERT
who died November c'.h 1805
Aged 81 Years.
93. [Mrs. Ann Mackcallah. 4th February, 18 19. Aged 55. And her children who died in
infancy.
Mr. James Donaldson. 19th November, 1816. Aged 25.
Mr. Thomas Dulin, 22nd March, 1819. Aged 61.
Mr. Alen Breckenridge, engineer, "who was killed by accident in Greenwich while engaged
in making the First Gun that was invented to fire Cannon balls by steam." 21st September,
. Aged 26.
Mrs. Frances Breckenridge, wife of the above. 28th October, 1828. Aged 32.]
94. [George Wheeler, son of Samuel and Sarah Wheeler of this parish. 16th February, 1824.
Aged 2 years 10 months 24 days.]
95. JOHN PRESTON
96. SOLOMON MOXEY
97. WALTER VINEY
In Memory
of JOHN PRESTON
who died 3o'.h Dec1; 1 797
Aged jo Tears.
To the Memory of
MR SOLOMON MOXEY
of this Parifh, who departed
this Life. March y 2 5l.h 1775
Aged 53.
A Tender Father, a loving Hufband
And Sincere Friend.
Alfo near this Place
Lieth six Children
who died in their Infancy
MARY BA
Wife of MK MOXEY
who died the 24l.h JanY 1780
Aged 57 Years.
Sacred
to the Memory of
MR WALTER VINEY
who departed this Life the 28 Jan
1795. Aged 75 Years
And to perpetuate whofe Memory this
and
Sincere Friend
45
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
98. M. CAMPBELL ^t
V M. CAMPBELL
died December the 10* 1791
Aged 19 Years
K. CAMPBELL.
died February the 23rd 1 801
Aged 35 Years
FRANCES CAMPBELL
died April the 29th 1801
Aged 41 Years.
99. [Richard James Said, a native of Africa. 5th November, 1810. Aged 19.]
100. MARY BARRY
Here lies the Body of
MARY BARRY who Departed
this life the 10th of March 1-
Aged 38 Years alfo two of her
Children.
Here alfo lies the Body of
IOHN COSGRAUE her
Brother who Departed this
Life the 19th April 1764 Aged
44( ?) Years Requiescat in pace
101. ANDRIES BACON
A tombstone surmounted by a carved skull and cross bones in low relief.
Near this Place Lye
Interred the Remains
of MT ANDRIES BACON
Who departed this Life
Sep1?1- I9'.h 1777
Aged 37 Years.
102. [Capt. Francis Symes, late of the 65th Regiment. 26th January, 1810. Aged 35.]
103. [Mr. Isaac Warner, of Castle Street, Leicester Fields. 21st November, 1813. Aged 40.
Sophia Warner, wife of the above. 23rd November, 1823. Aged 46.
Five of their children who died in infancy.]
104. FRANCIS LYON
In Memory of
M? Francis Lyon
Formerly of this Parifh
who died Septentf 27V 1788
Aged 55 Years.
46
SAMUEL HOBSON
105. [Joseph Taylor, late of St. Martin's Lane. 19th October, 181 1. Aged — .]
106. [Mr. John Corderoy, of the Strand. 24th December, 18 — . Aged 54.]
107. SAMUEL HOBSON
In Memory of
M^ Samuel Hobson
Carver
Late of this Parifh
who departed this Life
January Ist 1790 in the
70th Year of his Age
108. HENRY WARD
In Memory of
Henry Ward, Gent.
who died I i'.h October 1798
Aged 52 Years.
109. [James Richardson. 13th March, 1814. Aged 7 months 10 days.
Charles James Richardson. 21st December, 18 16. Aged 13 months 14 days. Both infant
sons of James and Jane Richardson.]
no. [Elizabeth Judith Gates, daughter of James and Elizabeth Gates. 6th March, 1819. Aged
5 years 9 months.]
in. ELIZABETH SKEEN
Here lieth
the Remains
of
M'f ELIZABETH SKEEN
Wife of
M^ John Skeen.
of this Parifh:
who departed this Life the
26'.h of March 1769
Aged 56 Years.
Alfo
the Remains of
the above
M* John Skeen.
who departed this Life the
28^ of May 1772
47
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
112. WILLIAM BURN
In Memory
of
Maftf William Burn
Son of John & Mart Burn
of this Parifh;
who departed this life Nov* 27*.h 1782,
aged 2 Years, and 7 Months.
Alfo Mifs Mary Burn,
Daughter of the above John &
Mary Burn; who departed
this life the 27*.h of May 1783,
aged 1 Year, and 3 Months.
Alfo Mifs Frances Burn,
Daughter of the above,
who departed this life the 3o'.h of
Octf 1785, aged 13 Months
Here alfo
are depofited the remains of
M' John Burn, Father of the
above, who departed this life
the 26'.h of January 1803.
113. MARTHA BAYTHORN
OF
MARTHA BAYTHORN.
WIFE OF EDWARD BAYTHORN.
OF THIS parish:
WHO DIED THE 3R.D OF DECEMBER 1795
AGED 67 YEARS
ALSO 3 GRAND-CHILDREN OF THE ABOVE
WHO DIED IN THEIR INFANCY.
ALSO
MARY BAYTHORN.
HIS SECOND WIFE
WHO DIED 2 5T.H OF JUNE 1 8-( ?)
AGED 57 YEARS.
ALSO
JOHN BAYTHORN,
SON OF EDWARD AND MARTHA
WHO DIED THE 2N.D OF AUGUST l8-(?)
AGED 51 YEARS
ALSO
LUCY BAYTHORN,
DAUGHTER OF
EDWARD AND MARTHA BAYTHORN
WHO DIED THE 7T.H OF JANUARY 1 822
AGED 51 YEARS
ALSO
EDWARD BAYTHORN.
48
HENRY RYMER
114. HENRY RYMER
To the Memory
of HENRY RTMER,
who died Dec. 10, 1784.
Aged 17 Months.
SARAH FRANCES RYMER
died 11, 1792
Aged Years.
1 15. [Paul Gledstanes, son of George Gledstanes of this parish. 25th June, 1802. Aged 17 years
3 months.]
116. [Mr. Charles Taylor, 28th April, 1808. Aged — .
Elizabeth Taylor, sister of the above. 16th November, 1786. Aged 27.]
117. SARAH STAUNTON
Sarah Staunton Wife
of Sandys Staunton
of this Parifh
who departed this Life 29th Octf 1806
In the 47l.h Year of her Age.
Alfo Sons y Daughters of the above
Elizabeth Staunton
Born 1785 Died 1786
Sandys Staunton
Born 1784 Died 1786
George Staunton
Born 1792 Died 1793
Sarah Staunton
Born 1794 Died 1799
Thomas Staunton
Born 1790 Died 1800
M1? Elizabeth Wall.
Sifter of the above M'. S. STAUNTON
118. MARTHA FATT
M*s Martha Fatt
Died December y 22?
1770 Aged 42
M* William Fatt
Died April y 9th
1776 Aged 48
Alfo Thomas Angell
Son in Law to the above
William & Martha Fatt
died May the 5th 1780
Aged 24 Years
Alfo Thomas Freeman
Son in Law to the above
WILLIAM & MARTHA FATT
who died Aug'.1 the 2 2°d 17—
49
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
19. [William Portal, of Castle Street, Holborn, gent. 7th March, 181 5. Aged 80.
Elizabeth Portal, wife of the above.
Rev. William Benjamin Portal, son of the above. 27th June, 181 2.
Portal. 29th February, 1 8 16. Aged 36.
Mary Portal, second wife of Mr. William Portal. 18th August, 1815. Aged 68.]
120. EDMUND MARNELL
Near this Place lies Interred,
the Body of Edmund Walter Marnell
Son of Richard, 13 Lovisa Marnell
who died the 19th of February 1785
Aged 5 Months
121.
-ERCE SINNOTT
In Memory of
-ERCE SlNNOTT Esq.
formerly Lieutenant Governor
in Virginia in North America
who departed this Life
the 30*11 of April 1794
Aged 64 Years
122. SUSANNA BARNES
A ledger stone —
M1? Susanna Barnes
Wife of Mr: Robert
Barnes, of this Parish
Died the 10 : of March
1743 Aged 51. years.
And Alfo the Said
M^ Robert Barnes
Died the 19: of April.
1745. Aged 61 years.
123. [Mrs. Lucy Brown. 1811.
Christopher Brown. 1822.]
124. [Mr. Evan Davis, of this parish. 3rd January, 1809.]
5°
CAPTAIN DAVID LYON
125. CAPT DAVID LYON
In Memory of
DAVID LYON Cap: of
Marrines, died 2: of Dec: 1781.
Aged 67 Years.
G reive not for me my Children dear
Nor yet for my
For I am gone in hopes to dwell
With our Saviour on his Throne
126. [Frederick Colnaghi, son of Paul and Elizabeth Colnaghi of Cockspur Street. 15th July, 1800.
Aged 1 month.
William Colnaghi, son of the same.]
127. [Miss Ann Stuart. 5th September, 18 12. Aged 10.]
128. [Mr. Thomas Jenkin, gentleman. 22nd February, 1803. Aged 77.]
129. [Edward Michael Price, son of Edward and Amy Price. January, 1804. Aged 15 months.]
130. BENJAMIN WALMSLEY
In the Choir Vestries.
Here lies the Body of
Mr Benjamin Walmslev
who departed this Life Jan? 7l.h 1788.
Aged 71 Years
Alfo the Remains of
M1? Mary Warberton
Daughter of the above named
Mr Benjamin Walmsley
and Wife of Mr. William Warberton
of this Parifh
who departed this Life 4th April 1792
Aged 30 Years
Alfo two of her Children,
who both died in their Infancy.
51
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
131. [Hon. Sir John Cross Knt, judge of the Court of Review. 5th November, 1842. Aged 74.]
132. [Sarah Jane Townsend Rayner. 18th May, 1821. Aged 3 years 5 months.]
133. [William Key Esq., of James Street, Haymarket. 10th August, 1840.]
134. THEODORE MAYERNE
This monument shows a stone half-length effigy resting on a square pedestal with
moulded capping and base inscribed as below. On each side is a panel with a shield-of-arms.
(Plate 32a.)
Ita semper valeas lector,
elvs venerare monvmentvm per qvem tam mvlti
Recte VALVERVNT.
qvl nvnc cinis est hoc marmore conditvs.
nvper fvit ingens ille
Theodorvs Mayernivs.
Magnvm nomen.
Alter hippocrates orbi salvtifer.
Sjecvli svi decvs anteactorvm PVDOR
fvtvrorvm exemplar.
periti^e in re medica incomparabili scienti*qve natvr,"e
arcanorvm profvndissim^, accesserat incredibilis
politicarvm rervm vsvs, prvdentia, facvndia, ingenii.
lepos vsqve ad
miracvlvm.
erant viri sermones mzbje gratis, sententi.-e gemmae,
concilia oracvla eminebat verotenax sanioris pietatis
professio et vindicatio
mon alivs apvd reges ingenva tiapph^ia felicior avt proceribvs
merito acceptior, avt tenvibvs opem ferre paratior inter
diversos personarvm gradvs, et varias temporvm vices vbiqve
idem sviqve similis, sapiens, commodvs, fortis inconcvssvs, vt
qvi genio svo tvmres tvm homines, ipsamqve a deo fortvnam
svbiecisse videretvr.
qvid de mayernio plvra mayernivm dixeris
Omnia dixeris Anima coelo, ossa hvic tvmvlo
Nomen immortale tamje
Relinqwntor
Lector vive ac vale
Qvi sjepe in mortem solers sva tela retor si,
morborvm ad, cvras ipsa venena trahens;
Velmoriens similem per Christvm exerc[eo praJaxim,
qvkqve est mors alus est medicina [mihl]
Sir Theodore Mayerne, Physician to James I and Charles I, had a house in St. Martin's
Lane (see p. 1 16). He retired to Lindsey House, Chelsea, in 1649 and died there on 22nd March,
1655 (see Survey of London, IV). His wife, mother, and five children are buried with him in the
church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields.
135. [Edmund Antrobus Esq., of this parish. 20th April, 1827. Aged 64.J
Ann Antrobus, widow of the above. 18th November, 1835. Aged 58.]
52
UTRECIA TOMPSON
136. UTRECIA TOMPSON
The inscription below is surmounted by a low relief circular emblem, of a wreath of
laurels encircling a lozenge, bearing a lion and tortoise impaled —
Near this place doth ly y
Bodies of Vtrecia Tompson
e th
who died y 9 of December
1684 being one Month old &
Frances Vtrecia Tompson
who died Iuly 10 1686 being
three years & 4 Months old
both Davghters to Iohn Tompson
& Vtrecia his wife. & Neeces,
to DR Iohn Trovtbeck & Fran°?s
his wife. In memory of whom
the monument above is
( ?) (missing)
137. HON""-* AND REV. DR. HENRY MOORE
Close to this Pillar
Lyes Interred the Bodies of the
Honb!e & Rev1? D' HENRY MOORE
& Lady ROOKE his Wife
The Former Buried 1770
The Latter 1755.
138. BENJAMIN COLINGE
A wall monument with a moulded cornice and plinth, surmounted by a cartouche and
palm leaves, and flanked by consoles. A winged cherub's head below forms a corbelled apron.
(Plate 31 b.)
To the pious memory of
BENJAMIN COLINGE ESQr:
underneath Inter'd. Son of W: & Mary
e t
Colinge of Coreley in y Coun: of Salop.
Born y 15th of March 1634, & Departed
this life y 2D of Dec: 1700.
Married to Kather: descended of y Loyall
Family of y Ollivers of y Coun: of Darby;
by whom he had Issue 1 1 Sons & 3 Daught :
Only 5 Son's & y 3 Daught : surviv'd him.
He was affistant Secretary to his Bro: to all
the L: Chamberl : of y Royall Household
from y Reftauration to y year 1697.
Yeoman Uf her of his Maj : house of Peers,
& Keeper of his Councill Chamber.
Alfo near this place lies CATHRINE
Wife of the late BENIAMIN COLINGE ESQ:
who Departed this Life Auguft y 21: 17 19
Aged 77 years.
53
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
139. [Robert Finnie, "merchant Rio de Janeiro." 16th November, 1 8 3 1 .]
140. [Mr. John Willson, junior, of Kentish Town, late of Bear Street in this parish. 1st March,
1808. Aged 56.
Mrs. Ann Wiljson, wife of the above. 18th April, 181 1. Aged 60.]
141. ELIZABETH WILLIAMS
Here lies the Body of
Mr? Elizabeth Williams,
Wife of M' Edward Williams,
of S'. James
who departed this Life Aug^ I3t.h 1782
aged 53 Years
Alfo of Robert Williams,
Infant Son of Edward Williams Efq1!
Captain of the Danifh Royal Navy,
who departed this Life
February 3? 1820.
142. JOHN THROCKMORTON
Infra Dormit Iohannes Throckmorton
Lavor in Com. Essex Arm Abhinc Decessit 16
Anno Dom. 1664 to ^Etatis sv/f 64
Reliquit unicum Filium Georgium et Janam
Filiam per Dorotheam Hardy
De Com. Southton dilectissimam
Suam Uxorem qua? obijt Anno Dom. 1647.
143. [Mrs. Frances Hammond, wife of Mr. James Hammond, late of this parish. 1st August,
1804. Aged 57.
Two children of the above, Frances and , who died in infancy.]
144. [Rev. George Richards, D.D., late Vicar of this parish. 27th March, 1837. Aged 69.
Hannah Maria Richards, wife of the above. 1 6th November, 1844. Aged 72.]
54
CHAPTER 4
THE VESTRY HALL, VICARAGE, AND CHURCH SCHOOLS
The buildings in St. Martin's Place which comprise the Vestry Hall,
Vicarage, and National Schools were erected circa 1 830 as part of the Charing
Cross improvement scheme. The facade of the schools bears the inscription
"St. Martin's National Schools. Built by Subscription on Ground the
Gift of His Majesty King George IV. MDCCCXXX."* By the deed of
grant, dated 20th July, 1833, the Crown conveyed to the Vicar and Church-
wardens a piece of ground on the north side of the churchyard 98 feet by
28 feet together with the school building lately erected there to be used as
a National School for the education of poor children of the parish. A nominal
rent of £1 per annum was to be paid.
In 1 841 owing to lack of space the school was allowed the use of the
upper floor of the Vestry Hall, which was converted into classrooms and has
since remained part of the school. The premises were reconditioned in 1907,
after the Council took over the duties of the London School Board.
The present vicarage was erected at the same time as the vestry
hall and school at the expense of the Rev. George Richards, who was then
vicar of the parish.
Historical Notes
The earliest record of a parish school at St. Martin's is an entry in the churchwardens'
accounts for 1 5 7 1 : " payd to gey Is quarrell for setinge the scolhowse wyndowe & for vj newe q'rels
iijs ijd." Ben Jonson received his early education at this school, which was probably situated beside
the church. In 1614-1 5 a new schoolhouse and vestry room was built adjoining the church on the
south side. This building is shown in Vertue's drawing of the old church (Plates 8 and 9). The
Vestry met in the upper room, the school being housed on the ground floor until 1693, when the
scholars were transferred to Archbishop Tenison's school (see p. 113). The old schoolroom was
used as a session house from 1706 until the church was pulled down. A new vestry hall was built
at the south-east corner of the churchyard in 1728, and demolished in 1828. The parochial charity
school which was the real ancestor of the present National School was started in 1699 at Hungerford
Market (see Survey of London, Vol. XVIII). It subsequently occupied premises in Hemmings Row
and Castle Street (see pp. 1 1 3-4).
The old vicarage stood at the north-east corner of the Churchyard. It was apparently
newly built in 1 579 when a certain Thomas Davyes was accused of taking away "dyuerse peces of
Wood <i- framed tymber" from the Vicarage House,79 which the Vicar, Christopher Hayward, was
then building, and carrying them into the neighbouring garden of Mr. Styward.b The vicarage
was rebuilt in 1 666-7 .35
a Although the deed dates from William IV, the site was granted under the provisions
of the Act 7 & 8 George IV, c. 66, entitled "an act to extend an act of the fifty-sixth year of His
Late Majesty enabling his Majesty to grant small portions of land as suited for public buildings or
to be used as cemeteries."
b Sir Simeon Steward the poet, who rented a house in Church Lane from the parish.
55
CHAPTER 5
THE EAST SIDE OF TRAFALGAR SQUARE (INCLUDING
CHARING CROSS HOSPITAL)
Prior to the formation of Trafalgar Square, St. Martin's Lane con-
tinued southward to the Strand. A brief outline of the early history of the
properties on the east side of the lane south of St. Martin's Church was given
in Volume XVIII of the Survey. The Swan Inn, which abutted on St.
Martin's Lane, was in the same ownerships as Swan Close until the sale of
the latter to the Earl of Salisbury in 1 608-1610 (see pp. 4 and 5). This was
the inn at which Ben Jonson was served with good canary by Ralph, the
drawer.28 In 1668 an order was given36 that the post-house should be
removed from the Swan to the Red Lion on the other side of Charing Cross
(see p. 66). In 1679 the inn, together with the properties adjoining it, was
sold by Sir John Lowther and John Cozance to Nicholas Barbon and others80
and to Commissioners appointed under an Act81 of 1 66 1 for widening certain
streets. St. Martin's Lane, which had previously been only about 17 feet
wide, was widened to 32 feet, certain alterations were made to the south side
of the churchyard, and new houses were erected by Barbon on the east side
of the lane. At the beginning of the 1 8th century the sign of the Swan was
changed to that of the Star.82
In 1720 Strype described Hunt's Court, west of the Swan, as a
"pretty handsome square Court, with five or six good built and inhabited
Houses, having a good Air from a Garden on the East side, and hath a
Free-stone Pavement, with a Door at the Entrance, to shut up a Nights, for
the Security of its Inhabitants." During the next few years a number of
small houses were erected in the neighbourhood of the churchyard by Joshua
Drayner and others.82 A network of small courts was formed round the church,
and by the beginning of the 1 9th century the area had become one of the
worst slums in this part of London. Under the provisions of the Charing
Cross Act66 all the buildings between the church and the Strand were
cleared away and Adelaide Street, Agar Street and King William Street (now
King William IV Street) were formed on the site.
Golden Cross Hotel
When the old Golden Cross Inn was demolished c. 1830 (see p. 14),
a new Golden Cross was erected on the island site between the Strand and
Duncannon Street (Plate 36^). This in its turn was pulled down in 1936
and yet another Golden Cross now occupies the site.
Morley's Hotel
This building occupied the whole eastern side of Trafalgar Square.
It had an interesting plaster front designed in the Ionic order on regular
lines and possessed a certain charm. The well-proportioned bay standing
on Doric columns with splayed end treatment of the main block afforded a
56
CHARING CROSS HOSPITAL
happy junction with the Strand and was made to serve as an entrance to the
Post Office, which occupied the ground storey of the building at the southern
end. The whole design was a simple example of town architecture of the
Regency Period (Plate 38^). The hotel was demolished in 1936 and South
Africa House now occupies the site.
Charing Cross Hospital
This hospital was founded by Dr. Benjamin Golding. It was for a
time known as the West London Infirmary and was housed for a few years
in Villiers Street.83 The present building was erected in 1831—34 from the
designs of Decimus Burton. The treatment of the corner facing the Strand
is very successful (Plate 38^). The blocks facing Chandos Street and King
William IV Street were erected at a more recent date.
57
CHAPTER 6
SPRING GARDENS
The Spring Garden
Spring Gardens, the little thoroughfare which lies behind the south-
west frontage to Charing Cross, derives its name from the Spring Garden,
formed, probably, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth in the north-east corner
of St. James's Park as an addition to the pleasure grounds of Whitehall Palace.
The Oxford English Dictionary gives as one meaning of "spring,"
"a plantation of young trees, especially one inclosed and used for rearing and
harbouring game," and it seems probable that it was in this sense that the
Spring Garden was first so called.* It is shown on the "Agas" view (p. 115)
as a little copse enclosed with a fence, and there are later references to
pheasants and other "wild fowl" being preserved there.b In 1 580-1 an
account87 was rendered "for digginge and levellinge the Springe garden and
casting oute alleys and borders and settinge roses in the same," and it seems
probable that the garden was extended at this date. The works accounts,88
temp. James I, also refer to a bowling green, butts for the prince, the birdhouse,
a paved pond or bathing pool, and the planting of orange trees and other
foreign fruits there.
In 1590 a commission89 was appointed to inquire into the encroach-
ments committed by the tenants of houses abutting on Spring Garden in
building outhouses and breaking doors and window lights through the wall.
Nothing effective seems to have been done, and complaints of such encroach-
ments crop up continually during the next 200 years. The garden had
become a semi-public pleasure ground before the end of James I's reign. In
1620 Robert Hollowaye of London, "merchant taylor," deposed in the Star
Chamber90 that "having bene lately daungerously sicke ... he was . . .
advised to walke foorth of London into some fresh and sweet ayer. Where-
uppon (he) and his wiffe togeather with some fewe of his honest naighbours
and their wives — uppon the Eleaventh daye of June being the saboth daye
. . . betweene the howers of Fower and Five of the clocke in the afternoone,
and after they had orderly bene att Evening prayer in their owne parrish
a No reference has been found to a fountain in Spring Garden before 1614.84
Hentzner's "Jet d'eau"88 "in a Garden joining to the Palace" must have been in the Privy Garden
or the Orchard on the east side of Whitehall ; there are many early references to the fountains
there in the works accounts. In 1603 Florio used "Spring Garden" as a translation of Montaigne's
"pe'piniere," meaning a nursery of young trees. When the Spring Garden became a public pleasure
ground the name developed that connotation and was applied to the new pleasure ground opened
near the Mews and to later gardens of the same sort, e.g. Vauxhall. There were "jets d'eau"
somewhat of the type described by Hentzner in the famous water garden at Chatsworth, but no
evidence has been found of the term "spring garden" being used in respect of it.
b E.g. In 1 6 10 John Browne of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, brickmaker, had to answer
"for receaving and eating 2 pheasantes which were stolen forth of the Spring Garden at Whitehall
being the kinges Pheasantes."86
58
THE SPRING GARDEN
Church presumed to walke into your Ma*5 garden commonlie called the
Spring Garden neere to Whitehall." Unfortunately Hollowaye encountered
a debtor, Sir Thomas Littleton, who was also taking the air with his friends
in the garden and who had not expected to see men of Hollowaye's "vocation
admitted to come thither." A scuffle ensued for which both parties were
summoned before the court of Star Chamber, since the garden was within
the verge of the palace.
In 1 63 1 Simon Osbaldeston was granted91 the keepership "of the
Springe Garden and of the Bowling Greene there."3 Four years later we
hear that an "ordinary " was kept there "of six Shillings a Meal (when the
King's Proclamation allows but two elsewhere) continual bibbing and
drinking Wine all Day long under the Trees, two or three Quarrels every
Week . . . Lord Digby being reprehended for striking in the King's
garden, he answered, that he took it for a common Bowling Place, where all
paid Money for their coming in."92 In 1635 tne garden was ordered to be
closed and soon after a "new Spring Garden" was "erected in the Fields
behind the Meuse" (see p. 102).
After the outbreak of the Civil War the Spring Garden again became,
if indeed it had ever ceased to be, a place of public resort. In 1 646 the House
of Lords upon complaint "of the great Disorder in suffering Company to
walk and resort to The Spring Garden on the Lord's-day and Fast-days"
ordered that the Earl of Pembrokeb should permit no entry there on such
days. Later when puritan zeal was at its height the garden was entirely
closed0 though in 1658 John Evelyn was again able to "collation" there.
There was at least one house in Spring Garden as early as i635d
and building went on during the Commonwealth period, e.g. on 3 1st October,
1656, the Council discussed an account for nearly £2,000 for work done at a
house in Spring Garden "where Gen. Desborow lives."36 At the Restoration
the "garden" ceased to be such except in name, for the greater part was
divided up into plots and let on lease. In May, 1661, the plot at the northern
end was leased93 to Sir Charles Cotterell; a long narrow strip running north
and south was granted94 to Sir Edward Nicholas; and a more compact plot to
the east which had previously been in the possession of General Desborough
went to Sir William Morice.94 Sir Charles Cotterell had been appointed
Master of the Ceremonies in 1641 ; he fled to Antwerp in 1649, but at the
Restoration returned to England to take up his old post at the court of Charles
II. He built himself "a fair brick house" on his ground in Spring Garden
but apparently soon tired of it for before 1675 ne so^ l* to William, Lord
Crofts.43 In 1 664 the plot west of Morice's was granted95 to Sir Henry Bennet,
a His predecessors had been George Johnson and William Walker.
b Keeper of Whitehall Palace, an office which included the supervision of the Spring
Garden and St. James's Park.
c "Cromwell and his partisans having shut up and seized on Spring Garden, which
till now, had been the usual rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season." Diary of John
Evelyn, 10th May, 1654.
d A letter of Viscount Conway dated 31st October, 1635, states tnat he "has taken
two chambers in the Spring Garden, but must furnish them."36
59
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
afterwards Earl of Arlington. Bennet was secretary of state and a member of
the Cabal at this time. He lived at Arlington House, on the site of Bucking-
ham Palace and used the ground in Spring Garden only for stables. He also
disposed of his property there to Lord Crofts before 1674.
William, Lord Crofts, was one of the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber
to Charles II. He died in 1677 without issue, and in the following year his
sister, Katherine Crofts, obtained a reversionary lease of his two plots of
ground in Spring Garden. Between these two plots was an open stable yard
with a horse pond which until 1720 was used in common by the lessees of
Spring Garden. In that year " Mr. Secretary Craggs" applied for a reversionary
term in the ground formerly belonging to Mrs. Crofts whose title he had
bought, and a lease of the open stable yard and of a long triangular strip of
ground abutting on St. James's Park on the west "late in the possession of
the officers of His Majestyes Ordnance."96 Craggs seems to have obtained
his lease solely as a speculation, for in 1723 he disposed of his interest to
Sir Edward Southwell.97
Sir William Morice, M.P. for Plymouth and secretary of state, had
played some part in bringing about the Restoration, and the Spring Garden
grant was a return for services rendered. The old Court party were hostile
to Morice and in 1668 he resigned the secretaryship and retired to Devon,
where he devoted himself to theology. In 1669 he let his house to Sir Robert
Southwell who had just returned from a diplomatic mission to Portugal. The
latter obtained a reversionary lease of the house in 167398 and continued to
reside there until his death in 1702 when his title passed to his son Sir
Edward Southwell.
Later History of the Site
When Southwell died, in 1730, he was in possession of the greater
part of the Spring Garden and had begun to consider plans for its re-
development. The whole character of this quarter had changed during the
preceding fifty years. In 1694 the bowling green at the southern end, which
until then had remained an open space though several times petitioned for
as a building plot, had been enclosed to form a garden to the Admiralty
Office.43 Towards the close of the 1 7th century the other part of Spring
Garden, being within the verge of the court, had become a refuge for debtors,
one of the most notorious being Sir Edward Hungerford, and the Board of
Greencloth had finally to allow creditors to serve processes on persons living
there.99
Whitehall Palace was burnt in 1698 and not rebuilt. Government
offices replaced the royal apartments, and ground in the neighbourhood was
in demand for the residences of officials. As will be seen from the plan inset
on the opposite page, the lay-out of Spring Garden in 1730 was unsatisfactory;
the different plots of ground were very irregular in shape and size and were
difficult of access from the street. At the southern end a strip of the garden
had in 1665 been granted43 to Roger Higgs for inclusion in the tenements
facing Charing Cross with the condition that a roadway 34 feet broad should
60
EDWARD SOUTHWELL
be left open behind them. A passage and gate at the west end connected
this roadway with the street, but even this passage was several times encroached
on to the detriment of the inhabitants.
Edward Southwell, the younger, between 1730 and 1755 replanned
the remainder of the Spring Garden site. Development was for a time
retarded on account of the strip of ground in the possession of the descendants
of Sir Edward Nicholas but in 1752 Southwell bought100 up the lease of this
ground from the nephew of William Nicholas, and New Street, Spring Garden,
was extended westward to the park. Plots of ground on either side of New
Street and along Spring Garden Terrace were granted101 on building leases in
SPRING GARDEN »»««« «*>
1 753—55 to John Lambert, builder, who was also responsible about this time
for the development of Northumberland Street on the other side of Charing
Cross.
For close on a century Spring Gardens, as it came to be called,
remained a fashionable quarter inhabited mainly by politicians and civil
servants. Among the many well-known residents may be mentioned Sir
Roger Newdigate, the antiquary and founder of the Newdigate prize for
English verse, Admiral Sir Charles Saunders, Lord Frederick Campbell,
Patrick Delaney, D.D., the friend of Sheridan and Swift, George Canning,
the 1 st Earl of Malmesbury, diarist, and Henry Addington, Lord Sidmouth.
The Commissioners for the first Westminster Bridge had their office there,
as did the Auditors of the Land Revenue for many years. In 1 73 1 Sir
Edward Southwell built a chapel at the corner of New Street, for the use
of the inhabitants,102 and he and his heirs retained the right of presentation
until 1 828 when, as a result of several disputes which had arisen, the chapel
61
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
was granted to the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields and was formally
consecrated.43
The Crown Lease of the whole Spring Garden property was several
times renewed to the Southwell family but on each occasion the plots into
which it had been divided temp. Charles II were specified separately and
granted for different periods. Subsequent developments had cut right across
these old divisions so that in many cases houses stood on two or more plots.
The position was further complicated by the fact that Edward Southwell,
grandson of the first Sir Edward, and 20th Baron de Clifford, who died in
1777, left a life interest in the property to his wife Sophia; and their son,
SPRING GARDEN «s it was in 1/V6
Edward, the 2ist Baron de ClifFord, by his marriage settlement made in 1789
granted his reversionary interest in part of Spring Garden to trustees for
his wife.43 In 1794 the baron tried to raise some ready money by auctioning
his interest in the property but the monetary result cannot have been great,
for, beside the incumbrances already mentioned, in some cases the original
building leases granted by the first Sir Edward Southwell had not run out
and on some of the houses mortgages had been granted. Most of the lots
were taken up by the actual tenants of the houses and when the de Clifford
leases expired circa 1828 they were not renewed, the tenants treating direct
with the Crown.43
By the middle of the 1 9th century the Admiralty Office was needing
additional accommodation and from 1853 onward more and more of the
Spring Garden houses were acquired for Admiralty purposes.
The Public Offices Site Act of 1882 authorised the acquisition of
practically the whole Spring Garden site by the Commissioners of Works
62
NEW STREET, SPRING GARDENS
for the purpose of erecting new Admiralty Offices. The total cost of the
ground was close on ^500,000, and the original plan involved the rebuilding
of the old Admiralty. This plan was revoked in favour of retaining the old
building and erecting an annexe on the Spring Garden site, in spite of the
protests of the Royal Institute of British Architects and others who considered
that the old Admiralty would soon be unfit for further use, and that the pro-
posed new annexe was unworthy in design. Provision was also made for the
GR-OUND FLOOR.
FIRST FLOOR
No. 2 8 , Spring Gardens (No. 1 , New Street)
opening of the Mall to Charing Cross. Most of the site was cleared in 1885
but for the next three years the work was held up pending an enquiry by a
Select Committee. The Admiralty new building was completed in 1 891, and
a further block, designed by Sir Aston Webb, R.A., which included the
Admiralty Arch, was opened in 19 10.
Description of New Street, Spring Gardens
The houses generally were of three storeys with a basement and
attic. The fronts were in brick with a stone cornice, the ground storey in
some cases being rusticated and finished with a plain band. No. 28 had a
63
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
stone modillion cornice at the third floor level and wrought iron balcony
fronts to the windows of the principal floor. The entrance doorway was set
in an arched recess with a radiating fanlight. The iron railings to the front
areas had ornamental iron brackets which originally contained oil lamps.
Some of the houses contained panelled rooms but most of the interiors had
undergone alteration. A plan of No. 28 is given on p. 63. Staircase details
from several of the houses are shown on Plate 47. No. 18 (formerly No. 8),
was a house of a more substantial type with a spacious garden overlooking
"Xiiiu^jjy
St. Matthew's Chapel
the park. The exterior is shown as covered with stucco but it was probably
originally brick; with its deep pedimented porch and stone quoins it pre-
sented a residence of some character. A view of the garden front is shown
on Plate 426. No. 14, New Street, the residence of John Drummond, the
banker, was rebuilt in 1795, tne °^ house having been almost entirely
destroyed by fire. A design submitted to H.M. Commissioners of Woods
and Forests for the elevation of the new house is reproduced on Plate 41.
Spring Gardens (St. Matthew's) Chapel
This chapel was built in 1731. The plan of the building was of
interest owing to the irregular shape of its site. The chancel was placed at
the south-eastern end within a segmental alcove divided from the main body
by an elliptical arch. At the back of the altar was an arched window with
plaster decorations comprising laurel festoons surmounted by a shell (Plate
39^). On the north and west sides was the gallery with a panelled front sup-
ported on slight square pillars. The ceiling to the main body of the chapel was
64
ST. MATTHEW'S CHAPEL
flat with a deep cove to the sides. The exterior was of brick with stone quoins to
the south front and a moulded cornice. At the northern end on the east side
was a pedimented porch with quoins similar in character to the front. This
porch probably formed the main entrance, an additional entrance being
made later on the south front by the substitution of a doorway for one of
the windows. The head of the window was however retained, as will be
seen by reference to Plate 39a. A delightful little domed cupola with Doric
columns contained the bell.
It is possible that Sir Robert Taylor may have had some influence on
the design of the building, as he lived in Spring Gardens.
The chapel contained seating accommodation for 300 persons. It
was included in the compulsory purchase by the Commissioners of Works,
and from 1885 onwards was used as a storehouse for Admiralty records. It
was demolished in 1903.
65
Berkeley, Earl t
Berkeley
CHAPTER 7
OLD COUNTY HALL, INCLUDING NOS. 10, 12 AND 14
SPRING GARDENS (THE SITE OF BERKELEY HOUSE
AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION ROOM)
(i) Old County Hall
The offices erected by the Metropolitan Board of Works in Spring
Gardens in i860 and taken over by the London County Council in 1889
stand on the site of the triangular piece of the Wilderness in St. James's
Park containing 1 rod 33 perches which in 1701 was granted103 to George
London for 50 years (see p. 70). London, master gardener of the Royal
Gardens, and part author of "The Compleat Gardener," died in 1714, and
his executors sold his interest in this ground and the house then erected on
it to Samuel Llynn of Chiswick for j£i,305.104 In 1726 the following notice
appeared in the Daily Courant: "To be sold to the best Bidder, on or before
the 24th day of June next, Mr. Lynn's House in Spring Garden, lately
rebuilt, adjoining to the Wilderness and St. James's Park. Together with
the Garden, Yard, Stables, Offices, Outhouses and Conveniences." The
property was bought by William Chetwynd in trust for James, 3rd Earl of
Berkeley, the admiral, of whom a short account is given in the Dictionary of
National Biography. He died in France in August, 1736, and his body lay
in state at Berkeley House for two days in October on its way to Berkeley,
Gloucester. Extensions of the crown lease were obtained by the 4th, 5th
and 6th Earls of Berkeley who continued to use the house as a town residence
until its purchase by the Board in 1 858, although earlier efforts had been made
to appropriate it for a government office. A water-colour drawing by T. H.
Shepherd of Berkeley House just prior to its demolition in 1 859 is reproduced
here (see also Plate 49^).
One of the conditions of the Crown Lease to the Board was that a
strip of ground on the east side of the premises should be used to widen the
passage to the park, and that a portion at the southern end should be added to
the Mall.105 A slight alteration of the original southern boundary was made in
191 1 in connection with the alterations to the Mall.105 The Earls of Berkeley
had obtained a right of way through what had formerly been Lord Rochester's
stable yard (see p. 71) and Red Lion Inn Yard to Cockspur Street. This
right of way was inserted in the lease to the Board and continued to be in use
until a few years ago but has now been blocked up
Architectural Description. Old County Hall, which was erected from
plans prepared by Mr. Frederick Marrable, Superintending Architect to the
Metropolitan Board of Works, is on a corner site and has a symmetrical
elevation faced with cement. The front is divided into equal bays each side of
the wide, splayed corner which contains the main entrance. The ground
storey is treated as a podium with rusticated courses. The first floor has
details of the Ionic order, with the Composite order to the storey above, and
the respective entablatures continuous. The surface of the top storey is
66
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OLD COUNTY HALL
divided by decorative pilasters and surmounted by a balustraded parapet.
The whole effect is rather dwarfed by the monumental scale of the adjoining
terraces of Nash.
The plan is well balanced, a satisfactory feature being the elliptical
staircase leading out of the entrance hall and giving access to the principal
floor. The original board-room shown on the plan on Plate $2a, was demol-
ished and the Council chamber erected to afford the increased accommodation
required by the creation of the new administrative body in 1889 (Plate 50^).
(ii) Nos. 10, 12 and 14, Spring Gardens
Laurence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, Lord Treasurer of England
temp. Charles II and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland temp. William III, had
lodgings over the King's Gate at Whitehall and near the Cockpit.106 At some
date prior to 1699 he took possession of a strip of ground on the northern
verge of St. James's Park (see plan on p. 71) for stabling and coach houses,
obtaining a formal grant thereof in 1701.103 Rochester died in 171 1 and two
years later his son sold the lease of this property to Gerrard Smith. A sub-
lease of part of this ground near Spring Gardens had been granted to the
Ministers of the French Church in the Savoy and a chapel was erected thereon
in 1 709, which was, however, burnt down in 1 7 1 6.107 It was rebuilt and the
Huguenots continued to use it until October, 1753, when the Ministers
were ejected by Gerrard Smith. They appealed to the Treasury for redress108
but although they obtained a reversionary lease of the chapel building in
1757, it was never again used for its original purpose. Instead a sub-lease109
was granted to David Cock, in whose hands the building was metamor-
phosed into the Great Room or Great Exhibition Room of Spring Gardens,
the vaults underneath being let for wine cellars. For the next 50 years the
Great Room was a fashionable rendez-vous being used for concerts and for
exhibitions of all kinds. The Incorporated Society of Artists of Great Britain
held their annual exhibition there from 1761 to 1772. This was visited in
1 767 by the royal family and, perhaps on this account, a catalogue was issued
with pungent comments on the pictures. On 5th June, 1764, the King's
birthday, the child Mozart gave a public concert there.
In 1772 James Cox, a "Mechanician, Silversmith and Watchmaker,"
having failed to sell a collection of elaborate and expensive toys and con-
trivances in India and the East decided to show them to the public, at the
same time applying to parliament for authority to dispose of them by a
lottery. The collection was exhibited in the Great Room from 1772 until
1775, in which year the lottery was drawn at the Guildhall. A catalogue of
"Cox's Museum," admission to which was by ticket, price a "quarter
guinea" each, was issued in 1772. It describes the Room as ". . . fitted up
in an elegant manner: on the cieling of the dome are fine paintings in chiaro
obscuro, by a celebrated artist, as are the sides of the dome by the same. . . .
In the center of the Room, and at each end, are five magnificent crystal
lustres, finely cut; four lesser lustres are also suspended from the mouths of
the dragons at the corners of the dome : other chandeliers and girandoles of
67
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
crystal are also placed, wherever light is necessary to be transmitted ; curtains
of crimson are let down by machines to cover the pieces, which are also en-
closed within a balustrade of white and gold : the doors also are white and gold,
finely ornamented. A carpet covers the whole room, also the stairs; and by a
very curious contrivance, warm air is introduced into the room at pleasure."
A later exhibition, advertised in 1783, consisted of an artificial flower
garden "capable of admitting near a Hundred Persons to walk in it at one
T">' »'
lime.
In 1 780 the lease of the Great Room was bought by Charles Wigley,110
hard-ware man, by whom the room was largely used for auctions. A view of it
is given on Plate 49^. According to the
plans the room was approximately J2 feet
wide by 62 feet long, the northern side
being built on a strip of freehold ground
originally belonging to Thomas Pearce
(see Volume XVI of the Survey). In 1825
the Crown bought in the lease of the
Great Room and the freehold of this strip
of ground and two years later leased the
whole to Decimus Burton, then a young
architect who had made a reputation for
himself by designing the Colosseum in
Regent's Park and the improvements in
Hyde Park.
Burton erected the present Nos.
10, 12 and 14, Spring Gardens on the site
and for many years occupied the greater
part thereof as a town house and office,
though in later years he spent most of his
time at St. Leonards-on-Sea.
In 1876-79 the Metropolitan
Board of Works obtained sub-leases of
these houses.105 Communicating passages
have been opened between them and the
main offices and some other internal alterations have been made, but the
buildings have not been substantially altered, a fact which accounts for the
somewhat peculiar internal planning of these offices. For many years before
the migration to New County Hall the old kitchens served as record and
store rooms.
Architectural Description. These premises comprise a symmetrical
front, four storeys in height faced with stucco, with the ground storey treated
to represent stone jointings (Plate 48). The most important room was on the
first floor at the back, and was known as the Grecian room on account of its
decorative plaster frieze. The mantelpiece and overmantel are executed in
Sienna marble. A range of dwarf cupboards round the room have mahogany
fronts with Greek details and a Sienna marble top.
68
GOOUNCT FLOOP PLAK
Nos. 10 and 12, Spring Gardens
CHAPTER 8
CARLTON HOUSE
The boundary of the parish of St. James's, Westminster, created in
1685, runs almost exactly along the site of the old road leading from Charing
Cross to St. James's Palace, a highway which was moved northward by
Charles II on to the site of his old "pall mall" in order that his new "pall
mall" in St. James's Park should not be incommoded by the dust of traffic.111
The site of Carlton House, and its modern occupants Carlton Gardens and
Extract from Porter's map view circa 1660
Carlton House Terrace, lies partly north and partly south of the parish
boundary but it will for the sake of convenience be included in this survey.
At the beginning of the 1 6th century the land south of the old road
belonged partly to Westminster Abbey and partly to the hospital for lepers
known as St. James's Hospital, a possession of the College of the Blessed
Mary at Eton. In 1531 Henry VIII made exchanges with these institutions
by which he obtained the property he needed for his new palaces and park.
In a survey112 of the king's lands made soon after the exchange is an entry of
24 acres in "the felds betwex charyn crose and Seynt James upon the south
... of the Kyngs highe wey ledyng from the said charyng crose to Ei hill
69
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Prince Rupert
of the Rhine
now Soyn With Wheit." Under the new regime the cornfield became part
of St. James's Park. A grove of elm trees leading from Spring Garden to
St. James's Palace was planted in the reign of James Ia a little south of the
road, and St. James's garden north of the grove and the enclosure known as
the Wilderness, which together extended along almost its entire length, were
laid out at about the same time.b After the Restoration the Wilderness,
which, probably from its proximity to the old Spring Garden, had become
known as Upper Spring Garden, passed into the custody of Sir William St.
Ravy, a factotum of the king's who seems to have made himself generally
useful about the court without occupying any official position.115 In 1668
this ground "now enclosed within a Brick wall conteyning by estimacion
Fower acres," was granted to Prince Rupert "during pleasure."116 It is shown
on Morden and Lea's Map (Plate 1). The Works Accounts117 include
various items for the repair of Prince Rupert's Lodgings "in ye Spring
Garden." During his residence there the prince took a leading part in the
third Dutch War (1672-73) and was First Lord of the Admiralty (1673-79),
though in 1668 he had raised Pepys' ire as being one of the "mad silly
people" who were for "setting out but a little fleete."39 Little is known of the
last few years of his life. He died in Spring Gardens on 2 9th November, 1 6 8 2 .118
The Duchess of Cleveland laid claim to the Upper Spring Garden
after the prince's death; her claim was refuted, but George and Edward
Michell took possession of the lodgings which they turned into a public
house "in a very high and insolent manner," greatly to the dissatisfaction of
Antonio Verrio, gardener of St. James's.98 Meantime Thomas, Earl of Sussex,
who was in possession of Warwick House (on the site of Warwick House
Street) had petitioned the king in 1683 for a grant of a strip of Prince
Rupert's ground adjoining his own.43 This grant was not made until 1 706
but the earl had taken possession of it several years previously. The re-
mainder of Upper Spring Garden was for a short time reabsorbed into St.
James's Park. It is referred to in 1693 as the Wilderness or Woodwork and
was then used as a covert for deer being divided from the rest of the park
by a low fence. In 1699 a strip of ground at the east end of the Wilderness
was granted to the parishioners of St. Martin's to form a passage to the
park,103 and two years later a triangular piece of ground adjoining this passage
was granted to George London, "Chief Gardener to His Majesty." This
ground formed the site of the later Berkeley House, and the present old
County Hall (see p. 66).
The plan reproduced on the opposite page (from the copy in the Crown
Lands Office referred to in the grant of the passage way) shows the dis-
position of the ground in 1699. The property marked "Lord Russels" is
Warwick House, which belonged to the Earl of Sussex (see above). The
a In 161 5 a payment was made to "Henry Poulter and John Hall for watering the
younge elmes in the parke by the walke at St. James."113
b There were payments, recorded in the Lord Chamberlain's books in the years 1636
and 1640, to Simon Osbaldeston, deputy keeper of the Spring Garden, for gravelling the walks
there and in the Wilderness.111
70
THE WILDERNESS
narrow strip of ground marked Lord Rochester's garden and yard was not
officially granted to Laurence, Earl of Rochester, until 1 704, though he had
previously been in occupation; it was then stated to be part of the freebord or
verge of St. James's Park.103 Most of it continued to be used for stabling until
well on in the 1 9th century, but part of it, at the eastern end near the passage
to the park, formed the site of the French Chapel, later the Great Exhibition
Room and now Nos. 10-14, Spring Gardens, see p. 67. An account of
the Red Lion Inn and the other freehold property fronting Cockspur Street
is given in Volume XVI of the Survey, Charing Cross.
Number 6 in a set of regulations for St. James's Park compiled in
1703 says "No person to presume to go into the wilderness or plantation
where the deer lie, nor to disturb them or the colts or fellies."36 The deer
did not remain undisturbed much longer. In 1 709 Henry Boyle petitioned
the king for a lease of the Wilderness and of as much of the royal garden as
had not already been granted to the Duchess of Marlborough. He had had
the custody of both Wilderness and garden since 1 700 and, according to his
own statement, had spent £2,853 in making "some Addicional Buildings to
the House in the said Garden "and in other repairs.43 Boyle obtained a 31
years' lease of the ground which was estimated to be 9 acres 1 rood 1 perch in
extent. He was created Baron Carleton in 17 14 for his services to the Whig
party and this title became permanently attached to his house in St. James's
Park. In spite of being "a good companion in conversation" and "agreeable
amongst the ladies" he died a bachelor" and the house passed to his nephew,
a Thus Macky as quoted by Swift in his Historical Essays; Swift adds: "He had some
very scurvy qualities." His death (on 14th March, 1725) is described by Lady Mary Wortley
Montague: "He was taken ill in my company at a concert at the Duchess of Marlborough's and
died two days after, holding the fair Duchess by the hand, and being fed at the same time with
a fat chicken; thus dying as he had lived, indulging his pleasures."119 He held important offices
throughout the reign of Queen Anne and he was a patron of men of letters.
71
Boyle, Lord
Carleton
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Richard, 3rd Earl of Burlington, the architect. In 1730 Burlington applied
for a new lease. He complained that though the house was in good repair
"the greatest part thereof is very old."120 A reversionary lease was granted and
in 1732 Burlington handed the property over to his mother who promptly
disposed of it to the Earl of Chesterfield in trust for Frederick, Prince of
Wales.121
Thenceforth Carlton House became one of the centres of the political
intrigues resulting from the prince's lifelong quarrel with the king and
Pell Mall
The Plan ~01 mae/e /or lAe Poivoyer Princess e/ Wotes /761
Plan showing proposed alterations, 1 761
queen. An account of the life of the Prince and Princess of Wales there is
to be found in the diary of George Bubb Dodington, afterwards Baron
Melcombe, the "false, suspicious friend" of the prince who
" Flattered Walpole at Whitehall
And damned him in Pall Mall."
Dodington had a house in Pall Mall from which, during his first
period of friendship with the prince, a door was made into the prince's
garden. In 1734 Dodington deserted the prince's interest, but in 1749 he
was again in favour, and for the last two years of the prince's life Dodington
was a constant visitor at Carlton House. After Dodington's death in 1762
his house was bought by the Dowager Princess of Wales and added to
72
CARLTON HOUSE
Carlton House. The princess died on 8th February, 1772, and for some
years Carlton House was unoccupied.122 The Prince of Wales (afterwards
George IV) took possession in 1783, when he came of age, and with the
help first of Henry Holland, who died in 1 806, and afterwards of Thomas
Hopper, Walsh Porter, James Wyatt, and John Nash, carried out exten-
sive alterations. These alterations continued over a number of years partly
because operations were frequently held up for lack of funds and partly
because the prince's schemes became progressively more extravagant. Part
at least of the house was habitable by 1786 for Mrs. Fitzherbert was estab-
lished there after her formal
*<M'( marriage to the prince in
■*u*t{Ul li* " December, 1785. In 1787
parliament granted £20,000
for the completion of Carlton
+<V#'# House, but in 1789 it was
double
jwU--- stated that more than do
V44'*' tnat amount had been
\V pended.28 In that year the pi
Carlton House in 1794
ex-
pnnce
purchased 1 3 houses west of
Stone Cutters Court (marked
on the plan reproduced on
p. 71) to extend the frontage
to Pall Mall.43 In June,
1793, ne was m debt to the
tune of £370,000 and decided
to retrench by shutting up
Carlton House, yet two years
later his debts had increased to
the colossal sum of £639,890.
To such straits was the prince
reduced that he sought recon-
marriage with the Princess of
cilement with the king and agreed to a
Brunswick; in return for this his debts were settled and a further sum of
£26,000 was granted for Carlton House. The prince and princess soon
agreed to separate. The latter occupied a suite at Carlton House for a time
but on her removal to Blackheath the prince returned and re-installed
Mrs. Fitzherbert.
The Regency Bill passed in February, 1 8 1 1, and the prince celebrated
his accession to power by a most elaborate entertainment held at Carlton
House on the 20th of June: "The doors of Carlton-house, and the other
avenues of admission, were opened at nine o'clock to the company. Those
who went in carriages were admitted under the grand portico; those in
sedans at a private entrance at the east end of the colonnade. The Ministers
and household of the Regent entered at the west door of the palace, in the
inner courtyard. The state-rooms on the principal floor were thrown open
for the reception of the company, wherein the furniture was displayed in all
73
Prince of IVales
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
its varied magnificence. You descended the great staircase from the inner
hall to the range of apartments on the level of the garden. The whole of
this long range, comprehending the library, and the beautiful conservatory
at the west end, with the intervening apartments, was allotted to the supper-
tables of the Prince Regent, the Royal Dukes, the chief of the nobility, and
the most illustrious of the foreign visitors" — so wrote a journalist for the
Annual Register and his subsequent account of the decoration of the gardens
and the supper tables shows that the prince surpassed himself in the absurdity
of his extravagant lavishness on this occasion. The public were admitted to
view the house during the week following this entertainment and the crush
was so great that a number of persons were seriously injured.
In i 8 14 Nash, who had already remodelled the basement storey of
Carlton House (see p. 75), was employed in the erection of temporary rooms
in the gardens for the festivities held to celebrate the Treaty of Paris. In
June the Prince Regent received the Emperor of Russia and the King of
Prussia there. On 21st July the temporary pavilions were decorated in full
splendour to f£te the Duke of Wellington.65
There was a public outcry when, in 18 16, it was made known that
£160,000 had been spent on Carlton House since 181 1 and the name
became a synonym for spendthrift expenditure. Londoners did, however,
reap one permanent advantage from the Regent's architectural extravagances :
John Nash was brought to the front rank of his profession by the patronage
of the prince and was therefore able to carry out the long talked-of construc-
tion of a thoroughfare from Marylebone to Westminster. Regent Street,
authorised by the Act of 53 Geo. Ill cap. 121 (18 13), was in part designed
to improve the communications of Carlton House but long before the com-
pletion of the scheme its patron had transferred his interest from his Pall
Mall residence to Buckingham House. Carlton House, for all the money
and care lavished upon it, was but a "thing of shreds and patches" and was
becoming unsafe. Its owner, moreover, had by the time of his accession to
the throne (1820) taken a dislike to it.123
In the summer of 1826 the Commissioners of Woods and Forests
were informed that it was the King's wish that upon his "removal from
Carlton Palace, the same should be given up to the Public in order to its
being taken down and the site thereof, and the garden attached thereto,
being laid out as building ground for dwelling houses of the First Class."124
This scheme, authorised by the Act of 7 Geo. IV cap. 77 was at once pro-
ceeded with and by 1 829 the commissioners were able to report that Carlton
House was completely demolished and that part of the site had already been
let on building leases.
Architectural Description.
When Carlton House was first acquired from Lord Burlington in
1732, alterations, including the refacing of the garden front with stone, were
effected by Flitcroft, while Kent improved the grounds, forming bowers and
grottos containing marble statues sculptured by Rysbrach.
74
HENRY HOLLAND
Various additions were made to the house and grounds by the
Princess Dowager "as opportunities offered for taking in or pulling down
the adjoining houses" but the building appears to have been a ramshackle
place when, in 1783, the Prince of Wales took possession and appointed
Henry Holland as his architect to improve it. Holland was responsible for
extensive additions which covered a part of the old courtyard and included
a symmetrical front facing Pall Mall behind a screen of Ionic columns. The
alterations which extended over a number of years included the addition of
a series of handsome and lofty rooms which contained many features of great
decorative interest. The furnishings were also carried out under Holland's
direction. A number of his sketches are preserved in the library of the
Royal Institute of British Architects, while in the Royal Archives is an
"Account of the furniture and decorations ordered for the State Apart-
ments" drawn up by Holland in 1789, and of considerable interest as it
lists the names and addresses of the principal craftsmen employed. H.
Clifford Smith in his book on Buckingham Palace remarks that "The
influence exercised by Holland on the furniture of his epoch was immense;
and that the Graeco-Roman detail, which he was instrumental in introducing
into England during the last ten years of his life (1796— 1806) formed the
basis of the true "Regency style."3
After Holland's death in 1806, an extensive refurnishing was carried
out under the direction of Walsh Porter with the assistance of Benjamin
Lewis Vulliamy, the eminent clockmaker. In 1 8 1 3 John Nash was appointed
the Regent's architect. He remodelled the basement storey of Carlton House,
and despite the warning that "it was not intended that any steps whatever
should be taken towards erecting a New Palace," he planned and carried
out a range of magnificent rooms extending from the Gothic conservatory
designed by Hopper for the Court banquet of 1 8 1 1 (Plate 64) on the west,
to a new complementary Gothic dining room on the east. He also built a
Corinthian dining room, a Corinthian ante-room, a Gothic library and a
golden drawing room, all of which are illustrated by Pyne.125
For the celebrations of 18 14, Nash provided an enormous polygonal
hall, 1 20 feet in diameter, and several other rooms in the Palace gardens.
The polygonal hall was eventually presented to the garrison at Woolwich,
where it remains in use to this day as a Museum of Naval and Military
Models.
The engraving reproduced on Plate 59^ shows the Pall Mall front of
the building at its final stage. It comprised two storeys and had a rusticated
stone face completed with a modillion cornice surmounted by a high balus-
traded parapet. The central feature or focal point was the Corinthian
pedimented portico which also acted as a porte-cochere and by its scale
a Many items of furniture, pictures and fittings bought for Carlton House during the
Regency period and after the accession of George IV are now at Buckingham Palace and are
described and illustrated by Mr. Clifford Smith. A drawing by Holland, now preserved at Windsor
Castle Library, of the grand staircase at Carlton House, is reproduced here (Plate 58) by the gracious
permission of His Majesty the King.
g 75
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
tended somewhat to dominate the facade and compete with the screen of
Ionic columns enclosing the courtyard. The pediment to the portico con-
tained the Royal Arms while the soffit was heavily coffered. On each of the
flanks the wings were advanced to align with the portico (Plate 6i).a
The garden front, owing to the slope of the ground, had an extra
lower ground storey with a rusticated face, while the wall surface above was
in ashlar (Plate 57^). The high balustraded parapet, which was similar to
that on the Pall Mall front acted as a screen to the three roofs behind (Plate
57a). The main facade which measured over 220 feet in length was relieved,
not very effectively, by a central bay which, acting as the focal point, was
carried up to the full height of the parapet, while projecting still further on
the flanks were the Gothic dining room and the conservatory — most orna-
mental looking buildings but little in harmony with the general design of the
house.b
The interior contained many decorative features designed by Holland
and Nash. There were massive marble chimney pieces, sculptured by Schee-
makers, and elaborate ceilings from which were suspended magnificent
glass chandeliers, while the decorative wall furnishings with heavy looped-up
draperies were carefully selected and designed for their respective rooms
and positions.0
a The columns to the portico were subsequently re-used by Wilkins in his design for
the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square, while the Ionic columns to the screen were utilised by
Nash in the conservatories at Buckingham Palace.
b In the Soane Museum are preserved two eagles and the Prince of Wales' Feathers
which formed part of the plaster decorations to Carlton House.
c Pyne, in his Account of Carlton House, describes the elaborate interior decorations and
gives a number of illustrations, a few of which are reproduced here (Plates 61, 63, and 64). A manu-
script inventory of the contents of Carlton House drawn up in 1826, and a collection of 200 water
colour sketches of clocks, candelabra, etc., are preserved at Windsor Castle.
76
CHAPTER 9
CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE AND CARLTON GARDENS
Architectural Description.
When Carlton House was pulled down the development of the site
was considered in conjunction with a scheme for the improvement of St.
James's Park. For this John Nash prepared a plan showing three terraces
of houses along the north of the Park and three of unequal size along the
south where the Wellington Barracks now stand. Two of the northern
terraces were erected, being the Carlton House Terrace East and West of
to-day, but those on the southern portion were not proceeded with and the
proposals for forming a quadruple avenue in The Mall were modified,
though improvements of a similar character were subsequently carried out for
the Victoria Memorial. The Park itself Nash laid out in the Repton manner
breaking up the straight lines of the canal into the present lake with islands.
The two blocks of terrace houses were designed by Nash and their erec-
tion superintended by James Pennethorne. Nash intended to link these two
blocks by building a large domed fountain between them which would close
the vista looking down Regent Street towards the Park. He intended making
use of the old columns of Carlton House for this fountain, but the project was
not approved, and a flight of steps alone was introduced.
Later a Tuscan granite column designed by Benjamin Wyatt
and surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke of York was erected.
The statue, which is 1 3^ ft. in height, was designed by Sir Richard West-
macott and placed in position in 1834. The total height to the top of the
statue is 137! ft. (Plate 70, a and b).
The houses, which are four storeys in height above a basement, are
faced in stucco and form a double group each side of the Duke of York's
Column. Designed as an architectural entity, facing the Park, they represent
with their range of detached Corinthian columns, a pleasing example of
comprehensive street architecture; an effect greatly enhanced by the
freshness of their facades, which are maintained at a uniform stone colour
by periodical paintings. The end house to each block is carried up above
the roof of the main facade, thereby effecting a successful pavilion treatment.
The return fronts of the houses facing the steps are also effectively treated
in a complementary manner. The fronts to the Park, owing to the drop in
the level, are set back behind a terrace formed by the basement rooms being
extended out to The Mall. This lower stage is treated as an advanced
podium, having a range of Grecian Doric columns supporting a balustraded
parapet. The northern facades are plainer and rely on their projecting wings
and porches for their architectural effect.
Nos. 18-24, were built circa 1866-68, on the site of the riding
stables of Carlton House, which were not pulled down until 1858. At least
four of the houses in Carlton Gardens can be credited to Nash while
Decimus Burton built No. 3 and possibly others. A handsome marble
mantelpiece from No. 4 is now preserved, with its fire-grate, in the Victoria
77
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
and Albert Museum (Plate 76). No. 4 was demolished in 1929 and has
been rebuilt to a greater height than its neighbours and faced with stone.
Its increased height led to questions being raised in Parliament.
Most of the houses have undergone alterations in their interior
decorations and have had features introduced according to the tastes of their
Plan showing the riding stables of Carlton House, circa 1850
respective tenants. The planning of some of the houses is rather interesting,
but calls for no special comment. The illustrations (Plates 71-77) selected
for this volume can be considered as generally typical.
Historical Notes
Carlton Gardens
No. I. — List of Residents*: Sir Alexander Cray Grant (1830-31), Lord Goderich
afterwards I st Earl of Ripon (183 2-39 and 1 845-59), Prince Louis Napoleon Bonaparte ( 1 840-4 1),
a The list has been compiled from Boyle's Court Guide and Post Office Directories.
78
CARLTON GARDENS
Viscount Alford (1842-44), Viscount Goderich afterwards Earl de Grey and 2nd Earl and Mar-
quess of Ripon (1847-89), Stuart Rendel (1890-97), James Walker Larnach (1 898—191 1), Lord
Inchcape (1912), Eugene Pinto (1913-19), Viscount Northcliffe (1920-22), Lt.-Col. Sir Walter
Gibbons (1925-27), Viscount Bearsted (1928- ).
Sir Alexander Cray Grant moved to this house from No. 6, Whitehall Gardens. He
was for many years a prominent member of the House of Commons, though he never held any high
office.
In 1832 the house was taken by Frederick John Robinson, Viscount Goderich, who two
years later was created Earl of Ripon. Nicknamed "Prosperity Robinson" for his optimism when
Chancellor of the Exchequer (1823-27) he lacked the firmness and decision of character necessary
for a great statesman, though he was a member of the government during the greater part of the
40 years of his parliamentary career. He died at Putney Heath in 1859.28
C0OUVJ0 PLAN fOB
CAOLTON HOUSC
In December, 1839, Ripon let the house to Prince Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, who left
England in August, 1840, when he made his second premature attempt to gain power in France by
landing at Boulogne from an English steamer, the City of Edinburgh.66 During his stay in London
Napoleon led the life of a young man of fashion. "His establishment consisted of seventeen persons.
He had a pair of carriage horses, a horse for his cab, and two saddle horses. He rode and drove out
daily; and ... the Prince's little tiger behind his cabriolet afforded infinite amusement to his
French household."126
From 1841 until 1844 the house was occupied by John Hume Cust, Viscount Alford,
eldest son of the first Earl Brownlow, but in 1845 the Earl of Ripon resumed possession and he and
his son, the second Earl, retained it as the family town house until 1885. The second Earl became
third Earl de Grey in 1859 and was created Marquess of Ripon in 187 1. He held many high
political offices, including the governor-generalship of India.
Stuart Rendel, who was created Baron Rendel in 1894, was a son of James Meadows
Rendel, the engineer, and was President of University College, Wales, from 1895 until his death
in 1913.28
From 1920 until his death there on 14th August, 1922, the house was tenanted by Alfred
C. W. Harmsworth, Lord Northcliffe, the founder of modern English journalism.
79
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Temple, Viscount
Palmerston
No. 2. — List of Residents: Mrs. Huskisson (1831-50), Lord Overstone (1854-84),
Lt.-Col. Loyd Lindsay (1862-85), Lord Lockinge of Wantage (1886-1901), Lady Wantage
(1902-20), Royal Engineers Office (1919-20), Duke of Devonshire (1921- ).
For the first twenty years of its existence this house was occupied by Elizabeth Mary
Huskisson, daughter of Admiral Mark Milbanke, and widow of William Huskisson, statesman, who
was killed at the opening of the Manchester and Liverpool railway in 1830.
In 1854 the house was taken by Samuel Jones Loyd, who was created Baron Overstone in
i860. His father, a Welsh dissenting minister, was one of the founders of the London and West-
minster Bank (in 1834) and Overstone so improved on his inheritance that he died one of the
richest men in England.28 He was a recognised authority on banking and currency. At his death,
which took place at No. 2, Carlton Gardens, on 17th November, 1883, he left the greater part of
his fortune to his only surviving child, Harriet Sarah, the wife of Colonel Loyd-Lindsay, who was
created Baron Wantage in 1885. Lord and Lady Wantage were associated in organising the British
Red Cross Society. The former died in 1901 and the latter in 1920.65 In 192 1 the house was taken
by the Duke of Devonshire.
No. 3. — List of Residents: Chas. Arbuthnot (1831-35), Lord Southampton (1836-39),
F. Hodgson (1840-50), J. A. S. Wortley (1851-58), Hon. Mrs. Dyce Sombre (1859-63), Maj.-
Gen. George C. W. Forrester (1864-87), Lady Forrester (1888-93), Hon. Philip Stanhope (1894-
1906), Countess of Tolstoy (1898-1906), Lord Weardale (1908-23), Lady Weardale (1924),
Mrs. GladysC. Stewart (192 5-26), Viscount Tredegar ( 1 927-31), Albert E.Worswick( 1 93 3- ).
The first occupant of this house was Charles Arbuthnot, diplomatist and politician, and
confidential friend of the Duke of Wellington, with whom he afterwards lived. He was succeeded
at No. 3, Carlton Gardens, by Charles, third Baron Southampton.
From 185 1 to 1858 the house was occupied by James Archibald Sruart-Wortley, recorder
of London, who held the office of solicitor-general under Lord Palmerston in 1856-57.
Philip James Stanhope was a younger son of the fifth Earl of Stanhope. In 1877 he had
married Countess Tolstoy, the widow of a relative of Count Leo Tolstoy. Stanhope was created
Baron Weardale in 1905. After the war of 19 14-19 1 8 he became president of the "Save the
Children Fund" which was started to relieve the distress caused by war conditions. He died in 1923.
No. 4. — List of Residents: W. G. Coesvelt (1831-36), Adrian Hope (1837-46),
Viscount Palmerston (1847-55), Sir James Weir Hogg (1856-69), Quintin Hogg (1867-69),
Stapleton Hogg (1868-69), A- J- Balfour (1874-97), Lord Rayleigh (1878-97), Rt.-Hon. G. N.
Curzon (1898), Henry Charles Stephens (1901-03), A. J. Balfour (1908-29), Major Edward C.
Lascelles (1922-29).
Henry James Temple, third Viscount Palmerston, who had previously been living at No.
5, Carlton House Terrace, moved to No. 4, Carlton Gardens, late in 1846, this removal almost
synchronising with his appointment for the second time as Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs.
The strained relations which at that time existed between England and France, the French Revolu-
tion of 1 848, the Italian Revolution, and the civil war in Hungary, all combined to make his position
one of exceptional anxiety and difficulty. In 185 1 on Louis Napoleon accomplishing the coup d'itat
which made him master of France, Palmerston, without consulting his colleagues, expressed to the
French Ambassador his approval of Napoleon's action and as a result he was dismissed from office
by Lord John Russell. He remained in opposition until the end of 1852, when, on the formation
of a new Cabinet, he accepted the post of Secretary of State for Home Affairs. He removed from
Carlton Gardensa to Piccadilly in the winter of 1854-55, a month or two before he became
Prime Minister for the first time.
Sir James Weir Hogg was a director of the East India Company and upon the passing ot
the Government of India Act in 1858 was nominated as one of the seven directors to sit on the
new Indian Council. His son, Quintin Hogg, who is shown in the directories for 1867 to 1869
as resident at the house, had already started the "Youths' Christian Institute" which was the nucleus
from which the Regent Street Polytechnic Institute afterwards developed.
a In October, 1907, the Council placed a tablet on the house commemorative of
Palmerston's residence there. In 1936 the tablet was refixed together with a supplementary tablet
recording the fact that the premises had been rebuilt.
80
ARTHUR BALFOUR
In 1874, when Arthur James Balfour took possession of No. 4, he was on the threshold of
his political career; in 1897 when his first period of residence there came to an end he was Leader
of the Commons and First Lord of the Treasury, while his position in the intellectual and social life
of the time had shown a corresponding increase in importance. From 1902 to 1906 Balfour was at
the head of the government and therefore in occupation of No. 10, Downing Street, but after the
Conservative defeat in the general election of 1906 he returned to Carlton Gardens, which he retained
as his London residence until his death on 19th March, 1930. The story of Balfour's political career
and philosophic interests must be sought elsewhere, but it may be mentioned that his best-known
books — A Defence of Philosophic Doubt (1879),- Foundations of Belief (1895), and his GifFord lec-
tures on Theism (191 5 and 1922-23) were written during his occupation of No. 4.
From 1878 to 1897, Balfour's brother-in-law, John William Strutt, 3rd Baron Rayleigh,
well-known as a mathematician and physicist, shared the house. He was then engaged in experiments
on densities of gases, which resulted, in 1894, in the discovery of argon, a hitherto unknown con-
stituent of the atmosphere.
George N. Curzon is given as the occupier of No. 4 in the directory for 1898, the year
in which he was appointed Viceroy of India. He was later at No. 1 Carlton House Terrace (see
p. 82).
In 1933 the premises were rebuilt as offices.
No. 5. — List of Residents: Count and Countess de Salis (1831-32), Lord Stanley
(1833-35 anc* 1837-38), Count de Salis (1836), Countess de Salis (1839-41 and 1844-45), sir
Edward Knatchbull (1842), Sidney Herbert (1846-51), Col. Francis Vernon Harcourt (1853-78),
Lord Muncaster (1880-1906), Chas. S. Henry (1908-20), Lady Henry (1921-27), A. C. Bossom
(1928- ).
The first resident at this house, Jerome, 4th Count de Salis of the Holy Roman Empire,
died in 1836. In 1833-35 an^ agam m 1837—38, Lord Stanley, afterwards 14th Earl of Derby,
is given as the occupant. It was in 1833 that, as colonial secretary, Lord Stanley carried the act for
the abolition of slavery. He played an important part in political affairs during the middle decades
of the 19th century and held the premiership for two short periods, in 1852 and 1858-9.
Sir Edward Knatchbull, 9th Baron Knatchbull, paymaster of the forces and privy coun-
cillor, occupied No. 5 in 1842.
In 1846, Sidney Herbert, afterwards 1st Baron Herbert of Lea, and then secretary at
war in Peel's administration, moved to No. 5, where he remained until 185 1. It was largely through
his good offices that Florence Nightingale was allowed to go to the Crimea.
No. 6. — List of Residents: Henry Baring (1831-35), Thos. Gladstone (1836), John
Gladstone (1837-47), W. E. Gladstone (1838-41 and 1848-54), Lieut. J. N. Gladstone (1838-
41), Lord Vernon (1854), James Whatman (1856-82), Henry Matthews (1883-95), Viscount
Llandaff (1896-19 13), Miss de la Chere (1909-14), James Hugh Welsford (191 5-17), Sir Richard
Ashmole Cooper (191 8-31), Anglo-German Club ( 1 934), D' Abernon Club (1935-36), Athensum
Club (1938-39)-
From 1837 to 1847 this house was occupied by John (afterwards Sir John) Gladstone
and three of his sons, Thomas Gladstone (who afterwards succeeded his father in the baronetcy),
Lieutenant (afterwards Captain) John Neilson Gladstone, and William Ewart Gladstone who was
just beginning to make a name for himself in the world of politics. The last is given as the sole
occupant for the years 1849-54. It was in 1853 that Gladstone introduced his first and, in the
opinion of many, his greatest budget.
George John Warren Vernon, 5 th Baron Vernon, the Dante scholar, was at No. 6 for a
short time in 1854.
No. 7. — List of Residents: Chas. Herries (1831), Earl of Warwick (1832-35 and 1837-
54), J. Abercromby, Speaker of the House of Commons (1836), Lord Monson (1838-41), Lord
Brooke (1842-53), G. G. Vernon Harcourt (1 854-62), Frances, Countess Waldegrave (1854-79),
Chichester S. Fortescue (1864-74), Charles B. Braham (1869-80), Lord Carlingford (1875-80),
EarlofRosslyn (1881-82), Lord Brooke (1883-85), Rt. Hon. Henry Chaplin (1889-90), Viscount
Clifden (1891-95), Earl of Dudley (1 896-1924), John H. Ward (1909-11), Sir Alfred Butt
(1937- )■
From 1832 until his death in 1853, Henry Richard, 3rd Earl of Warwick, used this house
8l
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Curzon,
Lord Curzon
as his London residence. His stepson, Frederick John, 5th Baron Monson, and his son, George Guy,
Lord Brooke, also lived there during part of that period.
In 1846 Lord Waldegrave died leaving the whole of his estates to his wife, Frances Eliza-
beth Anne, the daughter of John Braham, the singer, who found herself a widow for the second time
at the early age of 25. In the following year she married her third husband, George Granville Har-
court of Nuneham, the eldest son of Edward Harcourt, Archbishop of York. In 1850-52 G. G.
Harcourt and his wife were living at No. 5, Carlton House Terrace but in 1854 they took over No. 7
Carlton Gardens where Lady Waldegrave "first exhibited her rare capacity as a leader and hostess
of society."28 Harcourt died in 1861 and two years later Lady Waldegrave married Chichester
Samuel Parkinson Fortescue and henceforth devoted her talents and her fortune to the success of his
political career and of the Liberal Party with which he was associated, her salon at Strawberry Hill
and in Carlton Gardens becoming a frequent meeting-place of the Liberalleaders. Lady Waldegrave
died at No. 7 on 5th July, 1879.
In 1889-90 the house was the London residence of Henry Chaplin, Viscount Chaplin,
who in the following year moved to No. 1, Carlton House Terrace (see below). Chaplin was well-
known as a politician and as a sportsman. It was said of him that "No one was half such a country
gentleman as Henry Chaplin looked."
Car/ton House Terrace
No. 1. — List of Residents: Wm. Edward Tomline (1831-33), Marquess of Abercorn
(1834-39), George Tomline (1840-89), Rt. Hon. Henry Chaplin (1891), Charles Seely (1892-
99), Joseph H. Choate (1900-05), Lord Curzon (1906-25), Indian Soldiers Fund (1916), Savage
Club (1936- ).
William Edward Tomline was the son of the Right Reverend Sir George Pretyman
Tomline, Bt., Bishop of Winchester. He declined the title on the death of his father in 1827. He
was M.P. for Minehead in 1830 and in 1835 became Colonel of the North Lines. Militia. He died
in Great Stanhope Street in 1836 when his son, George Tomline, an occupant of No. 1 from 1840
until 1889, became Lieutenant Colonel of the same troop.127
Henry Chaplin, 1st Viscount Chaplin, succeeded Tomline at No. 1, though he only
occupied the house for a short period. He had previously occupied No. 7, Carlton Gardens (see
above).
Joseph Choate was "Ambassador of the United States to the Court of St. James'," or,
as he preferred to call himself, "Ambassador from the people of the United States to the people of
Great Britain."128 He was to a large extent responsible for the successful conclusion of the Panama
Canal Treaty in 1901.
The most eminent resident was undoubtedly George Nathaniel, Marquess Curzon of
Kedleston, who took this house on this return from India in the winter of 1905-06 and retained it
until his death here on 20th March, 1925. During the first n years of this period Curzon took
little part in public life. He was embittered by the lack of recognition accorded to his services in
India and sorely missed the companionship of his wife who died in 1906. It was not until the
formation of the Coalition Cabinet in 1915 that Curzon again held political office. In 1917 he
married for the second time and No. 1 became once more a social centre. The period 1916-24 was
for Curzon one of great activity but his position was often rendered difficult, especially after his
transfer to the Foreign Office in 19 19, by the conflict between his rigid conservatism and the policies
forced upon him by his political colleagues. It was a sore disappointment to him when, on the
resignation of Mr. Bonar Law in 1923, he was not offered the premiership, yet he generously gave
his support to Mr. Stanley Baldwin. The statue erected in Carlton Gardens in 193 1 bears little
resemblance to Curzon as remembered by his contemporaries.28
Since the demolition of Adelphi Terrace in 1936 the house has been in the occupation
of the Savage Club.
No. 2 — List of Residents: Lord Kensington (1831-32 and 1837-41), Marquess of
Clanricarde (1842-61), Lord Dunkelline (1858-61), George S. Foljambe (1862-70), Viscountess
Milton (1862-83), Cecil Foljambe (1880-93), Lord Hawkesbury (1894-1906), Mrs. Maldwin
Drummond (1910), R. H. Maldwin Drummond (1911-13). James Horlick (1914-21), Duke
of Roxburghe (1923-32 and 1935- ), Duchess of Roxburghe (1933).
82
CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE
This was the first of the houses in Carlton House Terrace and Carlton Gardens to be let,
the lease being dated 6th October, 1829, and the lessee being William Edwards, second Baron
Kensington. From 1842 to 1846 the house was occupied by the third Marquess of Clanricarde,
then recently returned from the post of ambassador at St. Petersburg. He was described by Edmond
Yates as a "tall, thin, aristocratic man, bald and bland, wearing . . . tight pantaloons, striped silk
socks and pumps." His son was styled Lord Dunkelline.
In 1862 George Savile Foljambe and his wife, widow of Viscount Milton, moved to
No. 2. Foljambe died in 1869 and his widow continued to occupy the house until her death there
on 24th September, 1883. Her son, Cecil George Savile Foljambe, was created Baron Hawkesbury
in 1893 and Earl of Liverpool in 1905.
No. 3. — List of Residents: Lord de Clifford (1830-33), Dowager Lady de Clifford
(1834-45), Baroness de Clifford (1848-74), Hon. E. Russell (1849-74), Miss Russell (1855-56),
Mrs. Russell (1860-74), Wm. E. Oakley (1861-62), Lord and Lady de Clifford (1875-81), Earl
Brownlow (1882-88), Duke of Marlborough (1889-93), Duchess of Marlborough (1894-1903),
Lord Beresford (1898-1901), Lord Revelstoke (1904-29).
This house was leased on 24th November, 1829, to Edward, 21st Baron de Clifford,
who died without issue in 1832. His widow continued to live here until her death in 1845, when she
was succeeded by Sophia, Baroness de Clifford, the niece of the 21st Baron. Her son and grandson,
the 23rd and 24th barons, occupied the house in turn, but in 1 881 it was sold to Adelbert Wellington
Brownlow, 3rd Earl Brownlow, who lived here until 1888. During this period Earl Brownlow was
Parliamentary Secretary to the Local Government Board (1885-86) and Paymaster-General
(1887-89). He died in 1921.
George Charles, 8th Duke of Marlborough, used No. 3 as his town house from 1889 until
his death in 1892. His widow, who in 1895 married Lord William de la Poer Beresford, continued
to occupy the house until 1903.
John, 2nd Baron Revelstoke, partner in the banking firm of Baring Bros. & Co., Ltd.,
occupied No. 3 from 1904 until his death in 1929.
No. 4. — List of Residents: Sir Michael Shaw Stewart (1831-33), Lord Stuart de Rothe-
say (1834-41), Chevalier Bunsen (1842-49), Baron Thile (1844-46), Prince Lowenstein (1847-
1849), Baron de Langen (1847-49), Earl of Mount Edgcumbe (1851), Lady Stuart de Rothsay
(1852), Sir W. G. H. Joliffe (1853), W. E. Gladstone (1856), Viscount de Vesci (1857-87),
Mariano de Murrieta (1888-92), Edward David Stern (1893-1933), Lady Stern (1934-37).
From 1834 until 1841, when he was appointed ambassador to St. Petersburg, Sir Charles
Stuart, Baron Stuart de Rothesay, occupied No. 4. He had previously served as ambassador to Paris.
At the beginning of 1842 he let the house to Chevalier Bunsen, the Prussian Ambassador. "On the
morning of March 27, (1848) at eight o'clock, his Royal Highness the Prince of Prussia arrived at
No. 4 Carlton Terrace, unannounced, and was pleased to accept the proposal to make a speedy
arrangement of rooms for his residence in the abode of the Prussian Legation."129 He seems to have
taken pains to disturb the household as little as possible putting aside ceremony with the remark
"One ought to be humble now, for thrones are shaking." He left England at the end of May.
In March, 1849, the Prussian Legation moved to No. 9 (see p. 84) "when within two
days all our possessions were cleared out of one house into the other, passing over the terrace so as to be
as little as possible within public observation . . . the gain in acquiring the house of Mr. Alexander was
incontestable, both as to space, and amount of light, and also in the better arrangement of rooms."
The house was occupied for a short period in 1856 by William Ewart Gladstone.
No. 5. — List of Residents: Earl of Caledon (1831-39), Viscount Palmerston (1840-46),
Earl of Caledon (1847-49), George Granville Vernon Harcourt (1850-52), Dowager Countess
Waldegrave (1850-52), Earl of Caledon (1853-55), Countess Caledon (1856-63), Marquess
Camden (1858), Ladies F. and C. Pratt (1858), Rev. Jermyn and Mrs. Pratt (1858), Marquess
of Bath (1864-66), Countess of Caledon (1867-87), Earl of Caledon (1878-87), R. C. Naylor
(1888-90), Gordon Panmure (1891-93), Henry John Hay (1898), Lord Mount Stephen (1900-
1901), Countess of Caledon (1903), Anthony John Drescel (1904), Mrs. Potter Palmer (1910),
Earl of Caledon (1912), Mrs. Shaw (1913—1 5), Countess of Caledon (1917-20), Lady Cunard
(1921-24), Countess of Caledon (1925-29), Harry Gordon Selfridge (1930-34), Earl ot Caledon
(1937- )•
83
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
No. 5 was granted to Du Pre Alexander, 2nd Earl of Caledon, on 14th July, 1830, and
the lease appears to have remained in the possession of his descendants until its expiration in 1929.
His wife, Catherine Freeman, daughter of the 3rd Earl of Hardwicke, was the sister of her next door
neighbour (at No. 4), Lady Stuart de Rothesay. The 2nd Earl of Caledon died in 1839 and his
house was for a time let to Viscount Palmerston, then out of office. In the August of 1845 Palmer-
ston wrote, "Lord Caledon (James Du Pre, 3rd Earl) is going to marry Lady Jane Grimstone; but
he has not yet decided whether he will turn us out of our house or not."130 Later correspondence
shows that in December, 1846, Palmerston moved to No. 4, Carlton Gardens (see p. 80), and the
3rd Earl of Caledon is shown in possession in i847.a Later temporary tenants of the house were
George Granville Vernon Harcourt and his wife, the Dowager Countess Waldegrave (subsequently
at No. 7, Carlton Gardens), in 1850-52, and Henry John Hay, while American Ambassador, in
1897-98. The latter, though he held the office for so short a period, did much to cement Anglo-
American friendship. "In the long list of famous American Ministers in London," wrote a con-
temporary, "none could have given the work quite the completeness, the harmony, the perfect ease
of Hay."
No. 6. — List of Residents: Dukes of Leinster (1831-89), Marquess ofTavistock (1831-
1832), Lord Alexander (1839), Marquess of Kildare (1850), George Wm. and Lady J. Repton
(1856-58), Lords Otho and Gerald Fitzgerald (1859-62), Marquess of Kildare (1861-74 and
1880-88), Charles Henry Sanford (1890-91), Mrs. Mackay (1892-1920), Sir John Leigh
(1921- ).
This house was leased to Augustus Frederick, 3rd Duke of Leinster on 25th December,
1829, and it remained in the occupation of his family until 1889.
No. 7. — List of Residents: Wm. Hanning (1831-32), I. Lee Lee (1832), Thos. Clifton
(1833-36 and 1840-41), J. Abercromby (1837-39), Earl of Pembroke (1846-51), Earl Somers
(1854-55), J. Evelyn Denison (1856-60), Lady Charlotte Denison (1856-57), John Hardy,
M.P. (1861-80), Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery (1881-1904), Countess Dowager of Pem-
broke and Montgomery (1906), Hon. Lady Herbert (1908-24), Capt. S. Herbert (1924-26),
Duke of Marlborough (1927-34), Major Horst Kitschmann (1938).
William Hanning was granted a lease of this house on nth June, 1830, but lived there
only until 1832. The house was occupied in 1846-51 by the 12th Earl of Pembroke and in
1 881-1904 by his nephew, the 14th Earl.
No. 8. — List of Residents: Sir Robert Lawley (1831), Lord Wenlock (1832-36),
Lady Wenlock (1837-50), Lord Londesborough (1854-62), Lord and Lady Otho Fitzgerald
(1863-88), Earl Brownlow (1889-1923), Henry John C. Cust (1893-96), Count Albrecht Bern-
storff (1932-33), Baron Leopold von Plessen (1934), Baron Adolf Marschall von Bieberstein
(1935), Werner von Fries (1936- ), Major Horst Kitschmann (1937).
This house was leased on 22nd July, 1831, to Sir Robert Lawley, who was in that year
created 1st Baron Wenlock. He died in 1836 but his widow continued to occupy the house until
1850. From 1854 until 1862 it was tenanted by Albert Denison, 1st Baron Londesborough, an
amateur archaeologist who in 1855 was president of the London and Middlesex Archaeological
Society.
No. 9. — List of Residents: James Alexander (1831-48), C. Dashwood Bruce (1832-41),
Robert Alexander ( 1 846-49), Chevalier Bunsen (1850-54), Count Perponcher (1850-53), Baron de
Langen (1850-54), M. de Stockmar (1850-51), Baron Bethman Holweg (1853), Count BernstorfF
(1855-73), Count Henkel (1854-55), M. Albert (1855-59), De Katte (1856), Count
Brandenburg (1856-63), Frederick von Katte (1864-70), Count Munster (1874-86), Count
Hatzfeldt Wildenburg( 1 887-1902), Count Paul WolfF-Metternich (1903-n), Prince Lichnowsky
(1912-14), American Embassy, German Division (1916-17), Swiss Legation, German Division
(1918-20), German Embassy (1921- ).
From 1 849, when Christian Charles Josias, Baron von Bunsen, moved thither from No.
4, until the present day, with one break during the war of 1914-18, this house has been the home of
the Prussian Embassy and its successor the German Embassy. Bunsen married an English woman,
Frances Waddington, and during his long residence in England he made himself very popular among
a He died at the house in June, 1855.
84
THE GERMAN EMBASSY
all classes of society. He worked hard to bring about a rapprochement between England and Prussia
and to influence King Frederick William in the direction of liberalism. Several of Bunsen's books,
notably his Hippolytus and his Age (1852) and his Outlines of the Philosophy of Universal History as
applied to Language and Religion (1854) were published during his residence at No. 9. The
Memoir of Bunsen, by his wife, gives a vivid picture of their very happy family life at Carlton House
Terrace and of the many visitors to the household. Most of Bunsen's writing seems to have been
done early in the morning, though he was by no means always early to bed as the following extract
from a letter to his son shows: "Here all are tired from yesterday's dancing at our house; it was day-
light when I conducted the last lady to the door: nothing could be more successful. T. was lovely;
F., queenly. Beauties only were invited."
In 1879 when Count Munster was German Ambassador, Bismarck tried to get
England to form a triple alliance with Austria and Germany against Russia. That the project fell
through was probably the fault not of Munster but of a cooling off on the part of Bismarck and the
German Emperor.
The renewed friction with France from 1895 onwards, again turned the thoughts of
some British statesmen to Germany. Early in 1898 Joseph Chamberlain, the Colonial Secretary,
discussed with Count Hatzfeldt, then German Ambassador, the possibility of close co-operation
between the two powers, Once more, however, the scheme proved abortive owing to lack of support
from Berlin.
During the period 190 3- n when Count Paul Wolff-Metternich was German Ambas-
sador in England, the tension between the two countries was increasing owing to the provocative
methods by which the German Fleet was boomed. Metternich endeavoured to get the Kaiser and
the German Foreign Office to adopt a more pacific attitude and it was probably on this account that
Metternich was, in 191 1, given the hint to go.131
Metternich's successor, Baron Adolf Marschall von Bieberstein, had a great reputation
as a diplomatist, but, in the words of Prince Lichnowsky "he was already too old and too tired to
adjust himself to the Anglo-Saxon world."132 His active support of German naval expansion also
rendered him suspect. At his death in September, 19 12, Prince Lichnowsky was appointed am-
bassador to London. The prince, during a very difficult two years, tried hard to keep Germany
from embroiling herself in the Balkans and to improve her relations with England and France.
He was on very friendly terms both with Mr. Asquith and Sir Edward Grey whom he liked
and trusted. The outbreak of war in August, 1 9 14, was for him both a national and a personal
tragedy.
No. 10. — List of Residents: Sir Matthew White Ridley (3rd, 4th, and 5th baronets)
(183 1-1901), Edward Ridley (1870-78), Matthew Ridley (1870-74), Viscount Ridley (1902-16),
Viscountess Ridley (1917-1923), Union Club (1924- ).
This house was continuously in the occupation of the Ridley family from the time of its
erection in 1831 until it was taken over by the Union Club in 1924. Sir Matthew White Ridley
the 5th baronet, and third of that name to reside at the house, was home secretary in 1 895-1900
and was raised to the peerage as Viscount Ridley in December, 1900. He died in 1904.
No. 11. — List of Residents: Lord Monson (1831-34), Wm. Crockford (1842-44),
Mrs. Crockford (1845), Earl of Arundel and Surrey (1846-55), Duke of Norfolk (1856), W. E.
Gladstone (1857-75), Wm. H. Gladstone (1866-75), Sir A. E. Guinness (1876-80), Lord
Ardilaun (1881-1915), London District Headquarters (1919-20), Benjamin Guinness (1924-29),
Francis Howard (1932-34), Miss Sylvester (1932-34), Loel Guinness (1933-37), Benjamin
Guinness (1938- ).
The first resident here was Frederick John, 5th Baron Monson. The house appears
to have remained empty from 1834 until 1842 when it was taken by William Crockford,
who had retired from business two years previously and was engaged in spending the large
fortune he had amassed from his famous gaming club in St. James's Street. He died at No. 1 1 on
24th May, i844.6B
In 1846 the house was taken by the Earl of Arundel and Surrey then M.P. for the family
borough of Arundel. He became 14th Duke of Norfolk at the death of his father in 1856 and in
that year he sold No. 1 1 to William Ewart Gladstone, who had previously occupied No. 4 in the
terrace. For the first four years of his residence here Gladstone was out of office, but in 1859 he
85
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
became Chancellor of the Exchequer, and, after Lord Palmerston's death six years later, he added
to this the leadership of the House of Commons. In 1866, after the defeat of the Government on
the Reform Bill, a crowd thronged to Carlton House Terrace shouting for Gladstone and liberty.
Gladstone was absent at the time and the crowd was only dispersed by the appearance of Mrs.
Gladstone on the balcony. In 1868 Gladstone became Prime Minister for the first time, and con-
tinued in power until 1874. During this period he carried his measures for the disestablishment of
the Irish Church and the reform of the Irish system of land tenure. He also entirely changed the
nature of English elections by the introduction of ballot voting. Occasionally the Cabinet seems to
have met at No. 1 1 as for instance after the defeat of the Irish University Bill in 1873.
In 1875 Gladstone resigned his office and sold his town house133 to Sir Arthur Edward
Guinness, who in 1880 became 1st Baron Ardilaun. Prior to his elevation to the peerage Lord
Ardilaun had been M.P. for Dublin and throughout his life he devoted much time and money to
the improvement of that city. His principal seat was at St. Anne's Clontarf, where he died, without
issue, on 20th January, 1915. No. II, Carlton House Terrace, though it has been variously tenanted
since his death, has remained in the hands of his family.
No. 12. — List of Residents: Marquess of Cholmondeley (1831-70), Miss Bentinck
(1845-50), John Hales Calcroft (i860), Hon. George Glyn (1872-73), Lord Wolverton (1874-
1885), James T. Mackenzie (1886-90), Sir Savile Brinton Crossley (1891-1916), Lord Somer-
leyton (1917), London District Headquarters (1919-20), Hon. Wm. Drogo Sturges Montagu
(1932-35), Hon. Mrs. Montagu (1936).
On 17th May, 1831, No. 12 was leased to George Horatio, 2nd Marquess of Chol-
mondeley, joint hereditary great chamberlain of England in succession to his mother (f.v. at No. 13
below), and he continued to occupy it until his death in 1870.
In 1872 the house was taken by George Grenfell Glyn, partner in the banking firm of
Glyn, Mills, Currie & Co., and M.P. for Shaftesbury. He succeeded his father as Lord Wolverton
in 1873. He was a personal friend and warm supporter of Mr. Gladstone and served as paymaster-
general in the Liberal ministry of 1880-85.
No. 13. — List of Residents: Dowager Marchioness of Cholmondeley (1831-38), Miss
Bentinck (1833-35 and 1838), Lord Henry Cholmondeley (1838), Lady Glynne (1840-44),
W. E. Gladstone (1840-47), Sir S. R. Glynne (1847), Earl Grey (1851-57), Lady Sykes (1858),
Earl Grey (1859-80 ), Grant Heatly Tod Heatly (1883-84), Lord and Lady Delamere (1885-96),
Sir Edwin Durning Lawrence (1898-1916), Miss J. D. Smith (1898-1901), Lady D. Lawrence
(1917), London District Headquarters (1919-20), Lady Lawrence (1922-30), Miss Durning
Lawrence (193 1—34).
This house was leased on 7th May, 1 831, to the Dowager Marchioness of Cholmondeley,
daughter of Peregrine, 3rd Duke of Ancaster, and joint hereditary great chamberlain of England
with her nephew Peter Robert, Lord Willoughby de Eresby. She died in Carlton House Terrace
in 1838.
In 1840 No. 13 was taken by Lady Glynne, daughter of Richard Neville, 2nd Lord
Braybrooke, and widow of Sir Stephen Richard Giynne. Her daughter, Catherine, had on 25th
July, 1839 married W. E.Gladstone and they and Lady Glynne's son Sir Stephen Richard Glynne,
M.P. for Flintshire and one of Gladstone's political supporters, seem all to have resided at the
house until 1847.
From 185 1 until 1880 the house was occupied by Henry, 3rd Earl Grey. At the com-
mencement of this period Earl Grey was Colonial Secretary but he was not included in Lord
Aberdeen's coalition ministry of 1852 and he did not again hold office though his interest in politics
never flagged.
Nos. 14 and 15. — List of Residents: No. 14. Gen. Balfour (1831-36), Hon. Edward
Ellice (1837), John Balfour (1840-44), Earl of Lincoln (1843), Earl of Lonsdale (1845- );
No. 15. Henry Broadwood (1837-39), Viscount Lowther (1840-43), Earl of Lonsdale (1844- _ ).
The first occupant of No. 14 was Lieutenant-General Robert Balfour of Balbirnie, Fife-
shire, of the 2nd Dragoons. He died in 1837 and his son, John Balfour, remained at the house until-
1844. It was occupied for a short time in 1837 by Edward Ellice, the elder, politician, and deputy
governor of the Hudson's Bay Company.
In 1845 the 3rd Earl of Lonsdale (previously Viscount Lowther), who had been living
86
VISCOUNT LOWTHER
at No. 1 5 a since 1840, took over No. 14 and continued to occupy both houses until his death here
on 4th March, 1872. Prior to his succession to the earldom Viscount Lowther had at different
times held the offices of 1st Commissioner of Woods and Forests, President of the Board of Trade,
and Postmaster General. "His great wealth . . . and the influence of his family gave him impor-
tance in his party, and extra-parliamentary meetings of the Tories were frequently held at his house
in Carlton Terrace." He was succeeded at both houses by his son, the 4th Earl.
No. 16. — List of Residents: George Harrison (1833-62), W. S. Poyntz (1837-38),
R. Howard (1838), Major Edward Macarthur (1839-45), H. C. Compton (1839 and 1841-42),
D. Callaghan (1840), I. G. Perry (1844-45) John Irby (1846), Lt.-Col. Edward Taylor (1848-
1862), Capt. R. H. R. H. Vyse (1848), Earl of Lincoln (1850), Ralph Wm. Grey (1851-56),
Rear Admiral Sir H. B. Martin (1857-62), Alfred Morrison (1871-98), Sir Weetman Dickinson
Pearson (1900-10), Lord Denman (1908-09), Lord Cowdray (191 1-27), Viscountess Cowdray
(1928-32), Rt. Hon. Brampton Gurdon (1933— 34)> Anthony Acton (1933-34), Crockford's
Club (1935- ).
Major Edward Macarthur appears to have occupied part of the house only. In 1841
he was appointed deputy adjutant-general in the Australian colonies. He was acting-governor of
Victoria in 1856. He was made K.C.B. in 1862 and became a lieutenant-general in 1866.
From 1900 until his death in 1927 No. 16 was the London residence of Sir Weetman
Dickinson Pearson, who was created Lord Cowdray in 19 10. Cowdray's firm was responsible
for many important works in different parts of the world among which may be mentioned the Black-
wall Tunnel (1894), the extension of Dover Harbour, the tunnels under the East River for the
Pennsylvania railway, and the dam across the Blue Nile above Khartoum (1926).
No. 17. — List of Residents: Lord Brudenell (1832-36), Countess of Sandwich (1837),
Andrew Spottiswoode (1840-47), R. B. and G. A. Crowder (1848-55), Sir R. B. Crowder (1856-
1860), Countess of Dunmore and Lord Dunmore (1861-63), Russell Sturgis (1867-89), Duke of
Grafton (1891-1901), Earl of Euston (1891-1901), Lord Mount Stephen (1902-22), Lady
Mount Stephen (1923-33), Royal Empire Society (1935-36).
This house was occupied from 1832 until 1836 by James Thomas Brudenell, Lord
Brudenell, who succeeded his father as Earl of Cardigan in 1837. He is notorious as the leader of
the "charge of the light brigade" at Balaclava. Posterity has been content with Tennyson to say
"someone had blunder'd" and not to pin the responsibility on Cardigan.
Andrew Spottiswoode, the publisher, lived here in 1840-47 while his son, William, the
mathematician and physicist, was growing to manhood.
The house was the residence of Sir Richard Budden Crowder, puisne justice in the court
of Common pleas, from 1856 until his death here on 5th December, 1859.
a The Henry Broadwood, who was the first occupant of No. 1 5, was possibly the grand-
son of James Broadwood, originator of the famous firm of pianoforte makers.
87
CHAPTER 10
PALL MALL EAST
As can be seen from Morden and Lea's map of 1682 (Plate 1) and
from the drawing reproduced on Plate 940, the Haymarket, Suffolk Street
and Hedge Lane (now Whitcomb Street) originally extended southwards to
Cockspur Street. After the formation of Regent Street H.M. Commissioners
of Woods and Forests agreed to carry out a suggestion, which had been
advanced many years previously, for the extension of Pall Mall eastwards to
St. Martin's Church (see p. 9). All the properties between Cockspur
Street and the newly-formed Pall Mall East were pulled down leaving a
triangular site which was taken by the College of Physicians and the Union
Club.3
The College of Physicians and the Union Club
These premises were designed as an architectural entity in stone by
Sir Robert Smirkeb in 1824-27. The principal front of the College is in
Pall Mall East and comprises a hexastyle portico of Ionic columns, Smirke's
favourite order, which support a pediment (Plate %oF). The return front
of the block facing the Square is divided by pilasters, with the central portion
containing a series of three-quarter columns in a recessed bay. The whole
is surmounted by a balustraded parapet. The elevation to Cockspur Street
is on similar lines and originally had a large central bow window. Alterations
affecting the south and west fronts of the Club were carried out when the
premises were acquired for offices by the Canadian Government.
Statue of George III
The bronze equestrian statue of George III, which stands at the
junction of Pall Mall East with the Haymarket and Cockspur Street, was
executed by Matthew Coates Wyatt and erected in 1836. The statue
represents the king in military uniform, on his favourite charger, and with
his cocked hat lowered in his right hand. The horse is represented as some-
what spirited, his right foreleg being raised, his mouth open and his full
flowing tail slightly distended. The pedestal is of Portland stone and has a
moulded plinth and cornice, with each of the sides consisting of a plain
rectangular face, with rounded surfaces to the ends. On the northern face
is inscribed "King George III" (Plate 79).
a For the earlier history of the site, see p. 89.
b Professor Richardson states that Smirke was a monumentalist in the fullest sense of
the word at a time when other men were trifling with Gothic architecture. Important works by
Smirke were the British Museum, the General Post Office, St. Martin's-le-Grand (now demolished),
and Covent Garden Theatre.
88
CHAPTER ii
SUFFOLK STREET AND SUFFOLK PLACE
History of the Site.
Suffolk Street and Suffolk Place are built upon the close of land,
shown on the plan of 1585 (see p. 2) as in the tenure of Widow Golightly,
and now roughly represented by the ground bounded by the Hay-
market, Cockspur Street, Whitcomb Street and Orange Street." Unlike
most of the land in the district this piece of ground can be traced as a separate
entity at least from the time of Henry VIII. It can almost certainly be
identified with the "crofte . . . lyinge in the parisshe of Sainte Margaret
in the lane next the King's Muse" which John Norris, "yeoman," in 15 13
left134 to his wife Christian for the term of her life and with the close of 3 acres
of pasture which was soon afterwards purchased135 by Henry VIII of John
Norres, grandson of the above John.b
A list of "the Kynges new purchest landes" refers to this close as in
the tenure of William Depon. In 1568 a 21 years' lease of it was granted to
Christian Golightly and in 1 575 a reversionary lease for 3 1 years was granted
to Nicholas Golightly. It is referred to as "Deppons Close in the tenure of
Widdow golightelye" in a survey of the commons of St. Martin's parish
made in 1575.35 Nicholas and his brother John Golightly both died without
issue and the lease passed into the possession of a nephew, Thomas Garland.
In 1 6 10 a 60 years' lease of the ground0 was included in one of the com-
posite grants of property made by James I to John Eldred, William WThit-
more and others who in the same year sold it, via a certain William Angell,
to Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton.137 The latter built stables and
coachhouses on the ground, it being conveniently placed opposite Northamp-
ton House which had no adequate stabling accommodation. In 16 14 Thomas
Howard, Earl of Suffolk, became possessed of both Northampton House
and its stables and in consequence they underwent a change of name.54 The
Suffolk Stables were surveyed by Parliament in 1650 and were then stated to
be surrounded by a brick wall, to be 2 acres, 3 roods, 14 poles in extent and
to be worth £23 17s. 1 od. a year though leased for 20s. a year.137 The ground
a Actually the houses on both sides of Orange Street are north of the boundary of the
Close (see p. 109).
b It is probable that this was part of the property in the town of Westminster and the
parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields bought by John "Norres" and Christian his wife in 1506 from
John Meryden and Anna his wife and may have been included in the purchase by Meryden from
John Hew in 1465-6.135 The reason for the acquisition of this and other land in the neighbourhood
of St. Martin's by the King was probably that suggested by C. L. Kingsford in his Piccadilly,
Leicester Square and Soho, namely, the control of the sources of water supply of the royal palaces.
This assumption is strengthened by such entries in the Works Accounts as the following: "Men-
dinge and scouring of pipes in Widowe Golightleys grounde and geveing attendaunce to see the
house and offices served wth water."138
c In this grant the ground is described as in two separate parcels of 2 acres and I acre
respectively, a description which is repeated in later leases down to the 19th century.
89
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i la \ )F/
\ S^Av^x
X-i^X
Howard,
Suffolk and
Earl of
Berkshire
u u
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
was made part of the so-called Bailiwick or Mannor of St. James which in
1662 was granted to the Earl of St. Albans and others in trust for Queen
Henrietta Maria for life, and from them the Earl of Suffolk obtained in
1662-3 a renewal of his lease with liberty to build.138 Suffolk Street (some-
times called Great Suffolk Street) first appears in the rate books in 1664 and
reference to Morden and Lea's map of 1682 (Plate 1) shows that it was
approximately on the site of the present Suffolk Street. Little Suffolk Street,
which was first rated in 1672, was further north than the present Suffolk
Place and extended on the east side of Suffolk Street to Whitcomb Street
(then Hedge Lane). Strype, in his 1 720 edition of Stow, tells us that Suffolk
Street "is a very good Street, with handsome Houses, well inhabited and
resorted unto by Lodgers." The Earl of Suffolk is rated there in 1666-82,
and the Earls of Thanet and Carlisle were there in the 1680s. Most of the
earlier residents could be classed among the lesser gentry, ambassadors,"
doctors and the like. In January, 1667-68, Pepys notes that the King had
furnished a house for Moll Davis, the actress, "in Suffolke Street most
richly, which is a most infinite shame."b39 One of her neighbours, Sir John
Coventry, shared Pepys' opinion and expressed it too openly in Parliament,
with the result that in December, 1670, he was "sett upon in Suffolk Street
as hee was going to his lodging with several persons on horse-back and on
, S t'*~'f I foot" and his nose was slit.c139
In 1692 a lease was granted to Edward Russell, afterwards Earl of
Orford, of all the Suffolk Stable property which was then said to be two
acres in extent, though the boundaries given are identical with those in
earlier leases.140 Russell seems to have sold his interest soon after to John
Coventry anj Thomas Moore who were granting building leases of sites in the Hay-
market, Suffolk Street, Whitcomb Street and on the north side of Cockspur
Street in the 1720s. Thomas Moore subsequently mortgaged the
property to Harry Spencer of London, Merchant, who later re-mortgaged
it to Sir Joseph Hankey.141 The lease appears, however, to have been
redeemed, for in 1 8 1 9 when it expired it was in the possession of George
Moore.
By the beginning of the 19th century Suffolk Street and Little
Suffolk Street had fallen into decay and disrepute and a plan for their re-
development was included in the scheme for the extension of Pall Mall.
A plan, reproduced on Plate 78, was prepared by John Nash, which provided
for shops being built on the east side of the Haymarket, and on both sides
of Suffolk Street, and an arcade on the line of Suffolk Place. Nash also
suggested that Suffolk Street should be extended northwards to James Street
8 E.g. "Signor Vignola, the new resident from Venice hath hired a House in Suffolk-
street near Charing Cross, with Conveniencies for a Roman Catholic Chapel." Daily Post, 9th
July, 1728.
b Mary Davis is given in the ratebooks for 1672-73 but not earlier.
c An Act, known as the Coventry Act, making nose slitting or any other mutilation of
the person a felony without benefit of clergy was passed soon after. Sir John is shown as occupying
a house in Suffolk Street in 1668-71.
90
JOHN NASH
(now Orange Street). Nash's original scheme underwent considerable
modification, but there is little doubt that he was responsible for the final
lay-out of the ground, and exercised some control over the design of all the
houses, as well as being specifically responsible for certain individual
buildings.142
All the land on the east side of Suffolk Street and the greater part
of that on the west was taken up by John Edwards in 1 820 as a speculation.
For some time no tenants were forthcoming, but in 1822 the University
Club took the site at the south-east corner and Nash advised Edwards to
build on the other sites without
delay. Edwards was unwilling
to take the risk and re-sold the
ground to Nash for £4,500.
Building operations were begun
immediately, and by the end of
1823 most of the property was
leased out.
In 1829 a Select Com-
mittee was summoned to investi-
gate the part played by Nash in
the development of several
Crown properties, including
those in Suffolk Street, and it
was found that Nash, whilst
acting as agent and surveyor to
the Crown, had had "to report
upon the buildings erected by
himself on the ground of which he was the lessee."142 The Committee
exonerated him from any suggestion of dishonesty, but recommended that
such an invidious position should be avoided in future.
Architectural Description. — The whole street facade is carried out in
stucco, and though the designs of the various buildings were the work of
different architects, there is a certain amount of uniformity in their treatment,
which in all probability is due to the control exercised by Nash on the plans
and elevations (Plates 81-84).
Suffolk Place and No. 23, Suffolk Street. — The whole of the north side
of Suffolk Place with the return front to No. 3, Haymarket and the return
double front to No. 23, Suffolk Street, were designed as an architectural
entity, and remain today as one of the few surviving examples of Nash's
effective designing in street architecture. The main facade comprises three
storeys, with the ground storey containing a continuous range of fluted Doric
columns supported on corbels in the open areas, and surmounted by an iron
balcony railing to the first floor windows. The western end and front facing
the Haymarket shows a very satisfactory treatment of a shop window. The
south side of Suffolk Place, now destroyed, was treated in a manner
complementary to the northern side (Plate 83, a and b).
H 91
GROUND ! I Oil
f I K. S 1
f i 0 0 n
No. 1, Suffolk Place
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
A building lease of the whole site was granted in September, 1824, to John Godsman,
for 99 years from July, 1821.43 The first occupiers of the individual houses were: No. 1 — Francis
Squibb (1824-25), No. 2 — Henry Walker (1823-24), No. 3 — Edward Price (1824-33), No- 4 —
T. W. Rowland (1823-25), No. 5 — John Collett (1824-29). Richard Cobden, statesman, died in
lodgings at No. 23, Suffolk Street in April, 1865, a fact which is recorded on a tablet erected on
the house in 1905 by the Council.
The University Club House, No. 1, Suffolk Street. — The old building
was erected in 1822-23 from the designs of W. Wilkins and J. P. Gandy-
Deering.3 Extensions afterwards became necessary, and the present
building, erected in 1906, covers the sites of Nos. 1-4, Suffolk Street.
No. 5. — This house
(and No. 4, now demolished)
was designed by George
Ledwell Taylor.
No. 5 was first rated in
1826, when the occupant was William
Rowe.
No. 6 was occupied
from 1824 until 1830 by
Edward Cresy, the architect,
and joint author with G. L.
Taylor of The Architectural
Antiquities of Rome, 1821—22,
and Architecture of the Middle
Ages in Italy, 1829. Cresy
appears to have been influ-
enced in his design of the
house by Andrea Palladio's
villa at Vicenza.143
No. 6\. The Gallery
of The Royal Society of British
Artists. — This building has
only a small frontage to Suffolk
Street, forming an entrance to
the Gallery. The latter is on
the first floor level, and extends
over what were originally vaults and stabling accommodation in Dorset Place
(now Whitcomb Street). The exterior, which was designed by Nash, has a
Doric pediment supported on four detached fluted columns, the height of
the first and second floors; these stand on an advanced arcaded ground
storey. The interior was designed by James Elmes in collaboration with
Nash.
Nos. 8, 9 and 1 1 appear to have been designed by Nash on ground
originally leased to John Edwards.142 The main cornice to the front of the
Gallery of No. 6\ is continued to these three houses. There does not appear
a A plan and elevation is given in Britten and Pugin's Public Buildings of London, II.
92
Nos. 3, 4 and 5, Suffolk Place
SUFFOLK STREET
ever to have been a No. 10, and the original No. 7 appears to have been
absorbed into No. 8.
The first occupiers of these houses were: No. 7 — Joseph Mould (1827-30), No. 8 —
Thomas Hyde Villiers (1826-29), No. 9 — James Foote (1825-26), No. 11 — Henry Sothern
(1825).
Nos. 12-17. — These six houses were designed by Lewis Wyatt,
nephew of James Wyatt, the surveyor-general, and himself described by
Elmes as an architect "whose talents have tended towards the embellishment
». WK0'
No. 6, Suffolk Street
and improvement of the metropolis." Wyatt obtained building leases of the
sites of Nos. 12—14, an<^ he lived at No. 13 for a number of years.8 The
sites of Nos. 1 5—1 7 were bought by John Holroyd who employed Wyatt as
his architect. No. 1 6, which forms an effective terminal to the street, appears
to have been used as a hotel from the time of its erection till the present day.
The first occupants of these houses were: No. 12 — Joseph Mould (1824-28), No. 13 —
Lewis Wyatt (1823-29), No. 14 — Stephen Garrard (1823-29), No. 15 — Henry Thos. King
(1824-25), No. 16 — John Holroyd (1824-29), No. 17 — Henry Edward Kendall, architect
(1824-56).
Nos. 18 and 19. — These form the Suffolk Street front of the Hay-
market Theatre erected for David Edward Morris by Nash (see p. 99).
a The design for three houses in Suffolk Street, now in the Crown Lands Office, and
reproduced on p. 94, bears a strong resemblance to these houses.
93
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Nos. 20-22. — These three houses were obviously erected to the same
design, but the architect has not been ascertained.
(The earliest occupants were: No. 20 — Thos. Gwennap (1823-26), No. 21 — Geo.
Lumley (1824-40), No. 22 — Eliza Jane Chester (1823-37)).
Ground Landlord. — The freehold of all the Suffolk Street and Suffolk
Place houses is vested in the Crown.
Design for three houses in Suffolk Street
94
CHAPTER 12
THE HAYMARKET
Early History
What is now known as the Haymarket is marked on the plan of 1 585
as "the waye to Charinge Crose from Colb(roke)". When it first became a
market is a matter of doubt. It is probable that the adaptation of the Mews
as Royal Stables stimulated the formation of an unofficial market for hay
and straw near Charing Cross. Suckling's Ballad upon a Wedding written
before 1640 contains the lines —
"At Charing Cross, hard by the way,
Where we (thou know'st) do sell our hay."
In August, 1660, Robert Kilvert applied36 to the king for the office
of "Weigher of Hay and Straw at Charing Cross Market" since "for want
of such an officer, the hay and straw sold above London Bridge are brought
to market very short in weight."
Nothing came of Kilvert's request but his contention was apparently
correct for in January, 1 660-1, a grant36 was made to William Careless and
two others of the "office of surveying all hay and straw brought by land and
water to Westminster, making searches to rectify abuses therein, etc., taking
6d. a load for hay and 3d. for straw." In 1661 Sir John Denham, Surveyor
of the Works, asked that the market might be discontinued since loose hay
and straw washed down by the rain frequently caused stoppages in the drains
at the Palace of Whitehall.144 The market was not abolished but in 1662 an
Act145 was passed providing for a toll to be charged on every load of hay and
straw sold in certain streets about St. James's Palace including the street
"beginning from the Mews up to Pickadilly" and for the money to be used
for the repair and paving of these streets. The name Haymarket was first
applied to the street in the ratebook for 1657.* By 1681 when the 1662
Act had expired the street was in a bad condition and several applications
were made for a grant of the tolls in return for the repair of the roadway. A
grant147 on these terms was made in 1687 to Charles Clutterbuck and James
Pawlett, but the matter was by no means settled. Pawlett obtained Clutter-
buck's share in the grant and permission from the Crown to transfer the
market to Soho. On the advent of William and Mary he was denounced as
a professed papist and his grant being annulled a fresh one was made to
Dorick Storke. Even then the farmers refused to pay the tolls until forced
to do so by an Act148 passed in 1690 which laid down definite regulations for
the conduct of the market. The Act provided for the setting up of toll posts
opposite Coventry House at the northern end of the street, and opposite
the Phoenix Inn at the southern end, to mark the limits of the market, and
ordered the Justices of the Peace for Westminster to appoint commissioners
for paving the Haymarket out of the money raised by tolls. The paving work
was afterwards leased out to John Mist, whose executors tried149 in 1730 to
a In 1663 the Earl of St. Albans, was granted "a market for all manner of beasts and
cattell on Teusday and Thursday in every weeke in the way commonly called Haymarket Streete."148
95
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
improve on his contract by moving the northern toll post further south, a
measure which provoked effective protests from residents at the northern
end of the street whose frontages would thus have been left unpaved. For
the next 1 50 years hay carts continued to block the Haymarket and neigh-
bouring streets three days a week to the ever increasing inconvenience of
the inhabitants. It was finally abolished in 1830.
Only the east side of the Haymarket lies within the parish of St.
Martin-in-the-Fields. Shaver's Hall, or "the gaming house" as it is called
on Faithorne's map, was built at the northern end in 1634 (see p. 102),
and houses were built on the southern half when the ground of Suffolk
stables was developed circa 1664 and on the northern half by Colonel Panton
circa 1674. The rates charged indicate that most of these houses were
comparatively small and it is probable, in view of the market in the street,
that they were from the first used as shops. Only at the northern end were
there any substantial houses, and these were probably the Shaver's Hall
premises converted to residential purposes, the corner house being from
1673 to 1686, the home of Henry Coventry, secretary of state in 1671-80,
and uncle of the Sir John Coventry who lived in Suffolk Street (see p. 90).
Coventry's residence gave the adjoining street its name, Coventry Street, while
Shaver's Place (formerly Arundel Place and Coventry Court) at the top of
the Haymarket probably defines the boundary of his house. Coventry House
was pulled down circa 1690s and smaller houses were erected on the site by
Richard Campion, nine being in the Haymarket.151 In 1 720 Strype described
the Haymarket as "a large spacious street with well built houses, especially
on the east side. ... It is a great through-fare into Piccadilly, and so to
the Western Road, and much resorted unto, by reason of the Market there
kept every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, for hay and straw there sold."
The new Street Act of 18 13, under the provisions of which the
appearance of the neighbourhood was so radically changed, also affected the
Haymarket. The lease of the southern part of the east side granted in 1692
to Edward Russell fell in at Michaelmas, 1 8 1 9, and the whole of the ground
from and including the site of the theatre down to Cockspur Street was, after
some deduction being made for the formation of Pall Mall East, relet on
building leases.
No. 3. — This house was designed by Nash as the return treatment to
the architectural composition of the facade to Suffolk Place, a similar effect
being produced with No. 2 on the opposite south corner, now demolished.
The treatment of the shop windows between the columns to both fronts is
very satisfactory.
No. 4. — These premises have a stucco front and had their
counterpart in No. 1 on the southern portion. Nos. 1 and 2 and the adjoining
premises comprising the whole island site were demolished for the erection
of new bank premises.
a An Act of Parliament was procured to enable this to be done as Henry Coventry's
heir, his nephew Henry Coventry, was only 4 years old. Coventry House was described as "a
capital messuage with divers outhouses, Gardens, Yards. . . . capable of being greatly improved."150
96
THE HAYMARKET
The sites of Nos. 3 and 4 were included in the general building lease of the north side
of Suffolk Place to John Godsman dated 28th November, 182143. The houses were leased in
1824 to Thomas Lindsay Holland.
No. 1 8 (now demolished). — These premises stood at the corner of
Orange Street and comprised three storeys over a shop. The shop front
returned along the side street. A projecting fascia carried a cast iron balcony
to the first floor windows. The building probably dated from the end of the
1 8th century (Plate 89^).
No. 25 (now demolished). — These premises were situated at the
corner of Panton Street and comprised a plain brick front of four storeys
with horizontal bands at the second and floor levels. The lower storey was
divided by pilasters into a series of bays of shop windows. The building
probably dated from the end of the 18th century (Plate 88£). The eastern
end of the return front to Panton Street had an arcaded treatment to the
shop front which may originally have been similar to the Haymarket front.
il
\h
17
4=M^
HAYMARKET
GROUND FLOOR PLAN
FIRST FLOOR PLAN
r'liifniiT
Nos. 33 and 34. — These two houses appear to date from the middle
of the 1 8th century, and it is probable that they were built by John Maidman,
carpenter, who in 1741 obtained a 51 years lease152 of the houses (20 in all)
on the site of Coventry House.'
a Previous owners were Gerard Van Heythusen of Hackney and Peter Deline of
Grosvenor Square. No definite proof of a rebuilding at this date is forthcoming but the suggestion
is supported by an almost complete change of personnel in the 1741 ratebook for these and the
neighbouring houses.
97
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
The exterior of No. 34 comprises a brick front of four storeys with
a stone modillion cornice at third floor level. The ground storey consists
of a delightful double-fronted bow-shaped shop window with a side entrance
to the private quarters over the shop. There is a screen of the Adam period
dividing the back portion of the shop (Plate 93). On the second floor is a wood
mantelpiece of the same period with a contemporary iron grate (Plate 92). The
staircase has spiral balusters with a close moulded string and is original. In the
basement is an ornamental lead cistern as shown on Plate 9 1 .
Peter Fribourg, the original member of the present firm of Fribourg and Treyer, is first
entered as the occupant of No. 34 in the 175 1 ratebook. The earliest account book now in the
possession of the firm commences in \j6\*
No. 33 was taken over by the firm in 1912. Occupants of the premises from 1741 to
1800 as given in the ratebooks were:
No. 34. — James Emon (1740-43), Catherine Barber (1744-45), Thomas
Robinson (1746-47), John Robertson (1748-50), Peter Fribourg (1751-85), G. A.
Treyer (1786-1809).
No. 33. — Christopher Gough (1741-42), James Emon (1743-78), Philip
Emon (1779-85), John Amick (1786), Moses Hugnanin (1787- ).
The Haymarket Theatre
The First Haymarket Theatre or Little Theatre was built in 1720 by
John Potter, carpenter,153 on the site of an inn in the Haymarketb and a shop
in Suffolk Street kept by Isaac Bliburgh, a gunsmith, and known by the sign
of the Cannon and Musket.154 It lay a little to the north of the present theatre,
two houses south of James Street, and was, in fact, at the north-west corner
of the original Depon's Close or Suffolk Stable ground (see p. 89). The
theatre opened on 29th December, 1720, with a French play La Fille a la
Morte, ou le Badeaut de Paris performed by a company later known as "The
French Comedians of His Grace the Duke of Montague." In 1730 it was
taken over by an English company, and its name changed to the "Little
Theatre in the Haymarket." Among the actors who appeared there before
1737 when the theatre was closed under the licensing Act of 1 o Geo. 1 1 cap. 2 8
were Aaron Hill, Theophilus Cibber and Henry Fielding. From 1741 to
1747, Charles Macklin, Theophilus Cibber, Samuel Foote, and others some-
times produced plays there either by use of a temporary licence or by subter-
fuge; one advertisement runs "At Cibber s Academy in the Haymarket, will
be a Concert, after which, will be exhibited {gratis) a Rehearsal, in the form
of a Play, called Romeo and Juliet."153
In 1754 John Potter, who had been rated for the theatre since its
opening, was succeeded by John Whitehead. In 1758 Theophilus Cibber
obtained from the Lord Chamberlain a general licence under which Samuel
a An interesting account of the premises was published in 192 1 by a modern repre-
sentative of the family who suggests that the firm was established there in 1720, but no evidence
is adduced in support of this date.
b Brayley states that it was called the King's Head. An inn of this name is shown on the
plan of St. Martin's parish given in the 1720 edition of Strype's Stow on a level with the north
end of Great Suffolk Street.
98
THE HAYMARKET THEATRE
Foote tried to establish the Haymarket as a regular theatre. With the aid of
the Duke of York he procured a royal licence to exhibit plays during four
months in the year from ioth May to 15th September during his life; he also
bought the lease of the theatre from Potter's executors and, having added to
the site by purchasing adjoining property, he enlarged and improved the
building which he opened on 14th May, 1767, as the Theatre Royal.3
Several successful seasons followed, but Foote finally got himself into diffi-
culties by his custom of caricaturing well-known persons on the stage and
this, combined with increasing ill-health, resulted in his selling both theatre
and patent to George Colman on 1 6th January, 1777.28
During the season of 1793-94 when Drury Lane Theatre was being
rebuilt, the Haymarket was opened under the Drury Lane Patent. The season
was notable for a "Dreadful Accident" which occurred on 3rd February,
1794, "when Twenty Persons unfortunately lost their lives, and a great
Number were dreadfully bruised owing to a great Crowd pressing to see his
Majesty, who was that Evening present at the Performance."155
George Colman senior died in 1794 and the theatre descended to his
son. George Colman junior, though successful both as playwright and manager,
dissipated his gains by his extravagance. For a time he lived in a room at the
back of the theatre and he was finally forced to sell shares in the latter to his
brother-in-law, David Morris.28 Monetary difficulties increased and for a
while Colman managed the theatre from the King's Bench Prison where he
was confined for debt. The old theatre was pulled down in 1820.
The second Haymarket Theatre. All the buildings on the east of the
Haymarket from the theatre southward were rebuilt circa 1820 in connection
with John Nash's schemes for the improvement of the neighbourhood. Nash
persuaded the proprietors of the theatre to rebuild on a site a little south
of the old one so that the portico should close the vista from Charles
Street. A lease dated 20th June, 1 82 1, was granted to David Edward Morris
of "a plot of ground on the east side of the Haymarket and west side of
Great Suffolk Street with a Theatre and a Messuage thereon" for 99 years
at a rent of £356 9s. 6d.156 The theatre was opened on 4th July, 1821,
with The Rivals.h
The main front feature of the elevation to the Haymarket comprises
a pedimented portico of six Corinthian columnsc which extends in depth
to the edge of the pavement and includes the whole frontage with the
3 It is sometimes stated that he rebuilt the theatre entirely, but this seems unlikely.
Fitzgerald states that he "incorporated a house in Little Suffolk Street with the theatre, removed
two shops which were in front, in the Haymarket, built a portico, increased the number of avenues
and added a second gallery to the auditory."
b For the later history of this theatre and an account of the plays produced there the
reader is referred to Allardyce Nicoll's History of Early igth Century Drama and Cyril Maude's
The Haymarket Theatre.
c Mr. John Summerson is of opinion that the columns are of brick construction covered
with "Hamelin's Patent Mastic."67 In view of the fact that Nash was partial to the use of cast iron
columns the practice here adopted is interesting ; probably the scale was too great for the columns
to be made in one piece.
99
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
exception of an entrance doorway on each flank.* The back of the portico is
in two stages, the lower being occupied by arched entrances and the upper by
windows agreeing with the intercolumniations. To the main wall of the front
above the pediment is a series of nine circular windows with iron frames
and radiating bars — the whole being treated as a panelled frieze with the
main cornice continuing the whole width of the building and acting as a tie
to the main facade (Plate 86a).
The elevation to Suffolk Street is in stucco similar to the Haymarket
front with the lower stage rusticated. A group of five arched windows masks
the back of the stage, while above the main cornice is an attic with elliptical
windows interspaced by pilasters (Plate 88rf).
Until recently, when the premises on the north side of the theatre were
rebuilt, the front wall of the old theatre was retained (see Plates 8$a and 86a).
a The small circular window in the tympanum of the pediment is a modern insertion.
IOO
CHAPTER 13
PANTON STREET AND OXENDON STREET
Early History of the Site.
Panton Street and Oxendon Street stand on the site of the close of
land marked on the plan of 1585 (see p. 2) as Scavengers Close. This
seems to have been used as the parish laystall — hence its name — for in a
presentment35 of the "Commons" of Saint Martin-in-the-Fields made in
1549 is entered "a Close Called the ledstalle being ij Acres and at the ende
of that Closse ther ys a Meadowe in the Tenure of Wyllm depont by estimacion
iij acres."3 The area of Scavengers Close was 3 acres, but discrepancies in
measurements were of frequent occurrence at this date, and it is probable
that the description applies to Scavengers Close, for Depon's close of
3 acres is that shown to the south of it on the 1585 plan and marked
"Wydowe Goelyghtly" (see p. 89).
Scavengers Close was bought by Henry VIII from the Mercers'
Company and described in a list of the "Kynges new purchest landes"158 as
"hi acres of pasture in a close ny to the muse" in the tenure of Thomas
Wood. In 1 548, in company with other lands originally belonging to the
Mercers, it was leased159 to Sir Anthony Denny for 2 1 years, and 1 2 years later
a reversionary grant was made to William Doddington.26 It is not surprising
that the somewhat clumsy official recordkeeping then in vogue occasionally
proved inadequate to cope with the large transfers of land of the Tudor and
Stuart periods; in this case confusion arose in the Ministers' Accounts
between the 3 acres of Scavengers Close previously owned by Thomas Wood
and the ground of the Mews granted to him and later to John Golightly in
the time of Henry VIII (see p. 8). Actually Scavengers Close was sold
via John Tamworthe160 to Thomas Wilson161 and in 1571 it was presented
as a "concealed land"162 (the Crown having received no rent for it during
the last few years of Denny's lease).
The plan of 1585 (p. 2) shows a building marked "Gynnpowder
howse" in the north-west corner and three other small buildings, one of
which may have been the conduit referred to in various deeds. In 16 19
Richard Wilson, a descendant of Thomas, sold163 extensive property in the
parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields to Robert Baker, whose widow, together
with her daughter Mary and her son-in-law, Henry Oxenden, in 1637
granted164 a 32 years' lease of "a messuage, a cookhouse, a tennis court and
4 acres of ground" there to Simon Osbaldeston.
In 1 63 1 Osbaldeston had obtained through his patron, Philip Herbert,
Lord Chamberlain, a royal grant of the keepership of Spring Garden and its
bowling green.165 The public were forbidden to resort there in 1634 (see p.
a Though this identification seems probable it is not certain. On the plan of Swan
Close reproduced on p. 4, the land in the tenure of Edward and Elizabeth Carr is marked as
"Scavengers Close" and the Parliamentary Survey (15T) describes a "parcell of ground called the
Leastall" on the north side of what is now Coventry Street. Searches made in the parish records
have failed to throw any further light on the position of the parish laystall in the 16th and 17th
centuries.
IOI
Oxenden of Dene
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
59) and Osbaldeston, in order to make up for this loss of income, opened a
similar establishment near the Mews, which included not only the "ordinary"
and tennis court mentioned in his lease, but was also "made to entertain
gamesters and bowlers at an excessive rate."92 The place came to be known
alternatively as Piccadilly House (from its position at the end of Piccadilly)
or Shaver's Hall (probably in reference to Osbaldeston's having served as
"gentleman barber" to the Lord Chamberlain).166 In 1 640-1 Shaver's Hall
was taken over by Captain Geares in whose possession it was when sur-
veyed for Parliament in 1650.167 The Survey describes the main building
as "strongly built w01 Brick" of 3 storeys "and over the same a fair walk
Leaded and inclosed wth Rayles very curiously Carved and wrought." The
tennis court was also built of brick but had a tyled roof.
In 1669 Shaver's Hall with all its appurtenances was bought168 by
Thomas Panton, succinctly described by the Dictionary of National Biography
as a "gambler," who in 1671 petitioned the Privy Council "that having
been at great charge in purchasing a parcell of ground, lying at Pickadilly,
part of it being the two bowling greens fronting the Haymarket, the other
part lying on the north of Tennis Court," he might have leave to continue
with his development of the property in spite of the king's "late proclama-
tion" against building.169 Sir Christopher Wren reported that "by opening a
new street from the Hay-markett into Leicester-fields" Panton's scheme
would "ease in some measure the great passage of the Strand, and will cure
the noysomness of that part," and recommended that a licence to build be
granted provided that the houses were built of brick "with sufficient scant-
lings, good paving in the streets, and sufficient sewers and conveighances for
the water." Panton Street first appears in the ratebooks in 1674 and Oxen-
don Street, named after Baker's son-in-law, in 1675. Panton was also
responsible for the erection of houses on the east side of the Haymarket at
this time.
Panton Street was described by Strype in 1720 as "a good open
street, inhabited by tradesmen." On the south side lived in 1 696-1 730
Thomas Hickford, proprietor of "Hickford's Great Room" used for auction
sales and entertainments.
Oxendon Street was, according to Strype, "a good, open, well built,
and inhabited Street"; with "a Chapel of Ease, called, The Tabernacle"
on the west side. This chapel, which lay to the east of Coventry House, was
built by Richard Baxter, the famous presbyterian divine, and author, among
many other works, of the Saint's Everlasting Rest. The chapel was opened in
1676 but, in the words of the then Vicar of St. Martin's: "Mr. Baxter
being disturbed in his Meeting House in Oxenden Street by the King's
drums, which Mr. Secretary Coventry caused to be beat under the windows,
made an offer of letting it to the parish of St. Martin's at the rent of ^40
a year. His Lordship hearing of it said he liked it well, and thereupon Mr.
Baxter came to him himself, and upon his proposing the same thing to him,
he acquainted the Vestry, and they took it upon those terms."35
102
STONE'S CHOP HOUSE
The chapel was fitted up for Church of England services at the
expense of the pewholders, and it was maintained as a daughter church of
St. Martin's until the completion of the new church in 1726, though in 1684
when St. James's was constituted a parish church it was thought that the
extra chapel would prove superfluous.
Nos. 32-33, Panton Street. — These houses, now known as Stone's
Chop House, appear to date back to circa 1770, but Stone is not given in
the ratebooks as the occupant until 1778.
103
CHAPTER 14
WHITCOMB STREET
Early History.
Whitcomb Street and Wardour Street follow the line of an ancient
thoroughfare or path known as Hedge Lane or Colman Hedge Lane, in
existence in the reign of Henry VIII, and probably much earlier. It is
shown both on the "Agas" map and on the plan of 1585 (p. 2). By
1682 the upper part as far south as Panton Street was known as Whitcomb
Street, and that name was extended to include the whole street circa 1780,
though for a short time at the beginning of the 1 9th century the lower part
was known as Dorset Place.
Whitcomb Street has always been a byway, and during the reign of
James I it was so narrow and inconvenient that the vestry ordered35 posts to be
set up there to prevent "the passage of any carts that way." The parish watch-
house stood at the upper end after its removal from Cockspur Street in 1683,
but because it was "remote from the most public streetes of the parish" it
was ordered in 1691 that it should be removed to a position near the church.
Thomas Stronde, a mason, became the tenant of the old watch-house, and
was allowed to take off the roof and erect a second storey thereon, but when
he further increased his accommodation by excavating a cellar he was ordered
to fill it up again "it appearing . . . that the same (if Continued) will much
prejudice the King's Conduit to the same watch-house adjoining."35
In 1720 Strype described Hedge Lane as lying "on the Backside of
Suffolk-street into which it hath a Passage; a place of no great Account for
Buildings or Inhabitants: But the new buildings adjoining to it, hath some-
thing improved it. On the East Side is Blue Cross Street (now Orange
Street), then George Yard, or Inn, a large Place for Coaches and Stabling."
The buildings in the lower half of the west side of Whitcomb Street
have always consisted largely of stabling and have frequently been tenanted
in conjunction with the houses in Suffolk Street. This arrangement was con-
tinued after the re-development of the area by Nash (see p. 91) and several
of the stables, etc., erected at that time still survive though converted to other
uses. The east side of the street seems in the 1 7th and 1 8th centuries to
have been largely given up to builders' and stone masons' yards.
Nos. 12, 14, 16 and 18. — These four houses have a brick front of
two storeys over the ground floor, which has had a modern shopfront inserted,
forming part of the showrooms of Hampton's furnishing store (Plate 96a).
A stone tablet let in the front of the second floor bears the inscription
"I.A" and the date 1692, the year in which the houses were erected. The
staircases have moulded close strings with square newels and turned balusters
and a panelled dado to the walls. Some of the rooms still retain their square
panelling and moulded cornices, while a few of the windows have their
original stout sash-bars and early glass.
Occupants of Nos. 12-18 to 1800 (according to the Ratebooks)
No. 12. — James Lovelace, Beadle (1693-94), Widow Lovelace (1695-1707), Mary
IO4
WHITCOMB STREET
Macdugall (1708-09), Giles Granville (1710-25), George Lawes (1726-39), John Burnell or
Bunhill (1740-64), — Hidieman (1765-75), John Groves (1776-88), Anne Groves (1789- ).
No. 14. — James Townshend (1693-1707), Widow Townshend (1708-18), William
Bowers (1719), Edward Bowers (1720-25), Elizabeth Bowers (1726-32), Edward Palmer
(1732-53), Caleb Carrington (Carpenter) (1754-66), John Gibbs (1766-75), Thos. Palmer
(1776- ).
No. 16. — Richard Johncock (1693-1700), John Willey (1701-03), Thos. Bentley
(1704), Richard Johncock (1705-07), William Spedding (1708), Erasmus Patterson (1709-10),
— Heslop (1711-12), James Vaughan (1713), Timothy Buckly (1714-17), Peter Julian (17 18),
Lancelot Snowden (1719-30), Matthew Linardy (1731-38), John Pearson (1738-49), John
Watson (1750-61), — Watson (1762-63), James Birrell (1764- ).
No. 18. — John Wilson (1693), Widow Colverson (1694), Joseph Hawkins or Hodgkins
(1695-99), Richard Hodgkins (1700), Joseph Hodgkins (1701-04), Widow Hawkins (1705-10),
William Perkins (1711-14), John Carrold (1715-22), Joan Carrold (1723-30), Jas. Head (173 1—
40), John Lewis (1740-48), William Hopkins (1749-56), Mary White (1757), Samuel Evering-
ham (1758-60), Thomas Bright (1761-66), Samuel Hartley (1767-69), Jas. Hartley (1770-77),
Sarah Beckett (1778-82), William Adams (1783-84), Jno. Kholer (1785-92), George Mings
(1793-95), Jos. Kefer (1796-97), George Pridham and — Rapier (1798), Geo. Lymes (1799),
Richard Andrews (1800- ).
These four houses were formerly known as Nos. 6—9. There is some confusion in the
ratebooks as to the occupants of the first three in the early 1 8th century, but the above lists appear
to be substantially correct.
105
NP35ST MARTINS ST..
STAIRCASE DETAII
CHAPTER 15
ST. MARTIN'S STREET
Early History.
St. Martin's Street was developed circa 1692-3 by Hugh Marchant,
Huntley Bigg" and others on ground previously known as the Blue Mews
(see Morden and Lea's Map, Plate 1). This was the northern part of the
2ac. 8p. close shown on the plan
of 1 585 north of the Mews and east
of Hedge Lane and marked W. Its
early history from the time of its
purchase from the Mercers' Com-
pany by Henry VIII coincides with
that of Scavengers Close (see p.
ioi)andin 1623 it was bequeathed
by Robert Baker to his son Samuel
as a close of ground "now divided
into several parcels and in part
built upon, containing in the whole
about two acres more or less, situate
behind the mews, which I have
lately enclosed with a brick wall."166
The Parliamentary Survey167 of this
plot, dated June, 1651, mentions
13 tenements there and several
stables and coachhouses including
"the blew yard consisting of two
coachhouses and 12 stables built
part with Bricke and part with
Timber and Flemish wall all lofted
over, together with a Leastall and
a Deale yard contayning by estima-
cion 5 Roods." The southern part
of the close was sold by John Baker
to Edward Proger in 1664170
while James Baker, son of John,
pursuant to a previous agreement,
sold the Blue Mews in 1671 to the
Nicholas Cookes, father and son,
in trust for William Marchant.171
The price, including that of a messuage at the north-east corner acquired
from the Earl of Leicester, was £6,350. St. Martin's Street first appears
in the ratebooks for 1693 when 7 houses are shown, while Blue Cross
Street, cutting it at right angles and now part of Orange Street, also makes
its first appearance in that year.
3 Hugh Marchant and Huntley Bigg were two of the proprietors of the Hartshorn
Lane Water Works and as such owned property on the east side of St. Martin's Lane.
106
SIR ISAAC NEWTON
In 1720 Strype was able to describe St. Martin's Street as "a hand-
some open Place, with very good Buildings for the Generality, and well
inhabited." None of the original houses now remain, and Lord Macaulay's
prophecy that No. 35, the home of Sir Isaac Newton would be "well known
as long as our island retains any trace of civilisation" has not been fulfilled.
No. 35, St. Martin s Street. — This house, which appears to have been
typical of the street, consisted of three storeys and basement with a tiled roof.
The exterior was, in 1906 (Plate 98), covered with stucco though originally,
AT MARTIN a STREET
GROUND FLOOR PLAN
"I ■■ iiinit >
FIRST FLOOR PLAN.
the front, like that of the adjoining houses, was in brick. The entrance
doorway had a projecting hood supported on carved brackets.
The interior comprised front and back room with a projecting wing
in the rear to each floor. The mantelpiece in the front room on the ground
floor had a marble bolection moulding surround (Plate 96c) and the walls
had bolection moulded panelling divided in two heights by a chair rail and
finished with a deep moulded cornice.
The front room on the first floor had a wood mantelpiece and decora-
tive frieze with a carved central tablet representing a quiver of arrows and
ribboned sprays of laurel leaves (Plate 96^).
The staircase had moulded close string, turned balusters and square
newels, all in keeping with the date of its erection.
The most famous resident, Sir Isaac Newton, occupied the house from 171 1 until 1727,
the year of his death. During this time he was chiefly engaged on revising the Principia. He was
still active enough to make use of a small observatory which he had built at the top of the house
1 I07
Netoton of Woohhorpe
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
and to attend meetings of the Royal Society, though his period of greatest productivity was at an
end. A tablet recording his residence was erected on No. 35 by the Society of Arts in 1881.
Dr. Burney took the house in 1774 and the greater part of his History of Music was
written there. Madame D'Arblay (Fanny Burney) in her Diary has the entry for 18th October,
1774; "We came immediately to this house, which we propose calling Newton House, or The
Observatory, or something that sounds grand. By the way, Sir Isaac's identical observatory is still
subsisting, and we show it, to all our visitors, as our principal Lyon. I am very much pleased with
the mansion." The Diary contains notes of the literary and artistic celebrities, Dr. Johnson,
Sir Joshua Reynolds, David Garrick and many others who were frequent visitors. The house had
MARBLE MANTEL PIECE On GROUND
FLOOP TO FfJQNY ChimkIEY feftgAST
yet a further claim to be remembered for it was there that the inimitable Evelina first saw the light.
The public library now covers the site of No. 35, which was pulled down in 191 3.
List of residents (according to the ratebooks) :
1 694- 1 70 5 Mauginet Lasso (Laswals); 1706 Stephen Lassall; 1707-10 Envoy of
Denmark; 171 1-27 Sir Isaac Newton; 1728-35 Paul Docmenique, Esq.; 1736-59 Robert
Crosby; 1760-74 Archibald Murray; 1774-89 Dr. Charles Burney; 1790 empty; 1791-1800
Peter Leclerc.
108
CHAPTER 1 6
built by Simon
1634. (See p.
ORANGE STREET
Early History
The original Orange Street comprised only that section of the present
street which extends from St. Martin's Street to Charing Cross Road, the
sections between Whitcomb Street and St. Martin's Street, formerly called
Blue Cross Street, and between the Haymarket and Whitcomb Street,
formerly James Street, having been included in Orange Street in 1905. A
brief history of each section is given here : —
(i) James Street was built up at the same time as Panton Street and
Oxendon Street. On the wall of the tennis court there was formerly a tablet
with the inscription "lames Street,
1673."* The street first appears in
the ratebook for i6~j$.b Though
no absolute proof is available it seems
fairly certain that it was built by
Colonel Panton on the southern part
of the grounds of Shaver's Hall, and
that the Tennis Court on the south
side of the street which survived
until 1866 was that
Osbaldeston, circa
io2.)c
Throughout its existence the
inhabitants of James Street have
been mainly small traders,
(ii) Blue Cross Street. This street as stated on p. 106, where the
earlier history of the site is given, was built circa 1692—93 on part of the
"Blew Mews." In 1720 Strype described the houses as "fit for good
Inhabitants." For the greater part of its existence the residents in the street
have been small traders. For many years the Feathers public house occupied
the south-east corner of Blue Cross Street and St. Martin's Street.
(iii) Orange Street. The site of Orange Street was formerly covered
by the Duke of Monmouth's stables. The street was formed circa 1696,
a In this year it is named St. James Street. For a few years it is entered as James Street
but from 1680 until 1685 the name does not appear, the residents being included under the
Haymarket. The name reappears in 1686.
b It is now erected on the south side of Orange Street.
c The tennis court is entered regularly in the ratebooks up to 1661 when "Mr. Newman
for the tennis Cort" and "Griffin Ellis for the boulinge greene and house" appear as consecutive
entries. In 1662 the name "Griffin Ellis" is crossed through, that of Colonel Panton being substi-
tuted, and the tennis court is omitted. No further mention of a tennis court in the neighbourhood
is to be found in the ratebooks until 1675 when "Benjamin Ifield at ye Tennis Court" is entered
under "St. James Streete." It seems unlikely that so expensive a structure would have been rebuilt
during the intervening 14 years a few yards further south as C. L. Kingsford assumes in his Piccadilly ',
Leicester Square and Soho. Moreover, the northern boundary of the Suffolk Stables property, which
can be traced in 18 19 at the expiry of the Crown lease, was well to the south of James Street,
showing that the later tennis court would have been within the precincts of Shaver's Hall.
IO9
Scott, Duke of
Monmouth
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
in which year building leases of the ground on either side were granted by
Ann, Duchess of Buccleuch, and her son, James, Earl of Dalkeith, to various
purchasers.172 In 1720 Orange Street was described as "fair" with "good
built houses."
The Tennis Court
A view of the exterior of the court from a drawing by T. H. Shepherd
is given in Plate 97a. The court was dismantled in 1866 when the stone
floor was bought by the Earl of Warwick, who intended to relay it at War-
wick Castle, but the stone
was found to be worn too
thin for further use. The
benches of the dedans were
removed to the Merton Street
Court at Oxford.
Tenants of the tennis
court from 1686 to 1735
were: Jane Davis, Isaac
Lodgedon, Thomas Hawkins
and Benjamin Itchell (or
Ithell).
After 1735 t^ie court
fell into disuse and the
building was used as a
theatre.173 Towards the end
,lM of the 1 8th century the
playing of tennis was revived
and from 1800 to 1866 the James Street court was the headquarters of the
game in England.166
Orange Street Chapel
This chapel was built for a Huguenot congregation who removed
there from a chapel in Glasshouse Street, Piccadilly, at Easter, 1693. Origin-
ally the chapel occupied only a small piece of ground at the corner of Long's
Court and Orange Street, the entrance being in the court, but in 1790 the
proprietors of the chapel obtained a lease of the house at the corner of St.
Martin's Street174 and the chapel was enlarged by the depth of it. The entrance
in Long's Court was closed and a larger entrance was made into St. Martin's
Street, the pulpits, desks and organ being at the same time removed from the
west to the east end of the building.
Architectural Description. — The exterior was faced in stucco. The
main front to St. Martin's Street was divided into three bays by Corinthian
pilasters which supported an entablature below a panelled attic surmounted
by vase terminals. The bays contained two tiers of arched windows and a
central porch with coupled fluted Doric columns. The return face had a
double series of arched windows similar in character to the front and a
1 10
ORANGE STREET CHAPEL
modillion cornice with a plain parapet. This latter cornice appeared to be
of an earlier date than that to the front (Plate 980).
The interior had a flat ceiling with a central octagonal lantern light.
A gallery, continued round the body of the chapel, was supported on cast
iron columns. It contained the organ at the east end, behind which was a
higher gallery across the end. The rostrum with a central pulpit was situated
in front of the organ. Seating accommodation was provided for 700 persons.
The last service in the old chapel was held on 25th March, 19 17. The St.
Martin's Street Library now covers the west end of the site while a small
Orange Street Chapel built in 1929 occupies the ground at the corner of
Orange Street and Long's Court.
Orange Street Chapel was used by the Huguenots from 1693 until 1787. In 1776 the
friends of the Rev. Augustus Montague Toplady secured a part-time possession of the building, and
Toplady preached there on Sunday and Wednesday evenings until his death in 1778. When, in
1787, the Huguenots were forced by their decline in numbers and lack of funds to leave the chapel
it was bought by Thomas Hawkes, Army Accoutrement Contractor, of Piccadilly, and converted
into a Congregational Chapel, the first minister being the Rev. John Townsend, founder of the
London Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb.178
I I I
Maynard
CHAPTER 17
HEMMINGS ROW AND CASTLE STREET
Prior to the formation of Charing Cross Road in 1886, Hemmings
Row formed the eastern end of Orange Street between Castle Street and
St. Martin's Lane. The whole of the east side of Castle Street was pulled
down in 1886 and the site of Hemmings Row became part of St. Martin's
Place.
On the plan of 1585 (see p. 2) the ground south of the site of
Hemmings Row is marked as "The Mewes Close." King James I granted
the eastern part to the parish (see below). The western part became the
Green Mews (see Morden and Lea's map, Plate 1) and later the site of St.
George's Barracks. A brief history of the parish properties in Hemmings
Row and Castle Street is given below.
(i) The New Churchyard. In 1606 the king granted176 to the parish
an acre of ground on the west side of St. Martin's Lane between the Mews
and Swan Close for a new churchyard, the old one on the east side, which
was already cramped, having been made still smaller by the enlargement
of the church (see pp. 20, 21). The greater part of this ground was conse-
crated on 8th June, 1608, but a strip along the north side 30 feet wide
and 332 feet long and a strip, 32 feet in depth, abutting on St. Martin's
Lane, were retained by the parish for secular purposes, part being let out
in building plots.177 In due course this misappropriation came to light and
in 1633 Charles I, while confirming the grant of the original acre to the
parish, ordered that the remainder of the ground which had remained
unconsecrated and which had not already been built over should be added
to the churchyard.
The "Agas" map (p. ii^) shows a footpath crossing St. Martin's
Field north of the Mews. This was probably the "foote way" lying between
the New Churchyard and Swan Close which the Vestry decided in July,
1622, to enlarge into a road 15 feet wide, "the taking doune and setting up
any Walls, placeing any posts or making any gates" to be done at the cost
of William Ashton (a tenant of Sir Henry Maynard (see p. 5)).
In 1653 the Vestry closed the lane with two posts but allowed Henry
Oxenden and his tenants at the Blue Mews to use the lane for coaches and
horses on payment of a rent of six pounds a year. In 1661 the Vestry again
threatened to close the lane since the traffic was disturbing the foundations
of the churchyard wall. In 1670 the Earl of Leicester was granted a 500
years' lease of the lane in order that he might improve the communications
of the ground he was then developing in the centre of St. Martin's Field,
i.e. Leicester Square etc. He undertook to pave the roadway and to put in
strong posts along the footway " for the safety of passengers."
The lane is marked on Morden and Lea's Map (Plate 1) as Dirty
Lane. It was sometimes referred to as New Churchyard Lane and later as
Churchyard Lane or England's Street.
In 1 700, when the Vestry applied35 to Parliament for an Act to enable
1 12
ARCHBISHOP TENISON'S SCHOOL
them to enlarge the churchyard, improve the houses there belonging to the
parish and widen the lane, they referred to the latter as "Heming's Row."
John Heming, apothecary, described by Burnet in 1688 as "a very worthy
man," occupied a house on the north side of the lane. In 1 7 1 1 James, Earl of
Salisbury, granted178 a lease of several houses there to Dorothy, widow of John
Heming, the largest being described as a "great messuage with a courtyard in
front and a garden behind late in the possession of the Honble Henry Broune
Esqr." This was probably one of the original houses built by Robert, Earl of
Salisbury, on Swan Close (see p. 5). It was pulled down shortly afterwards and
a row of houses was erected in its stead.
(ii) The Workhouse. The minutes of St. Martin's Vestry for 20th
July, 1664, contain the entry "The Earle of Newport wth Sr Hugh Cart-
wright and Edmd Godfrey Esqr came and Propounded to have a work house
for ye poore built in the new Church yeard." The workhouse was built soon
after. The parish authorities were guilty of the "scandalous offence" of
letting the vaults as wine cellars3 and in 1672 the Bishop of London ordered
that this "prophane use" should cease and that in future the vaults should
be "solely made use of for the burying and interring of Dead bodies."35 Per-
haps the poor did not appreciate this care for their spiritual welfare or perhaps
there was a temporary lack of poverty in the parish, but for whatever reason
the workhouse was little used and in 1683 it was decided to let it, on condition
that "if at any time hereafter there shall be occasion, another convenient
Workhouse shall be provided at the charge of the parish." Occasion arose
in 1724, when the vestry passed an estimate of £607 10s. for a new work-
house with an extra charge of ^10 "for making sash windows instead of
leadwork."
In 1772 a new and larger workhouse was built179 extending into Castle
Street and this building appears to have remained in being until its demoli-
tion in 1 871 for the extension of the National Gallery.180 Part of the work-
house building is shown in the view of Hemmings Row reproduced on
Plate \oob.
(iii) Archbishop Tenison s Library and School. There is an entry in
Evelyn's Diary for 15th February, 1683-84: "Dr. Tenison (Vicar of St.
Martin-in-the-Fields 1680-92) communicated to me his intention of erecting
a Library in St. Martin's parish, for the public use, and desired my assistance,
with Sir Christopher Wren, about the placing and structure thereof." The
library was erected in 1685 on the east side of Castle Street (Plate 99a).
The founder at first suggested that the ground floor should be used to
house the parish fire engines, but in 1687-88 the vestry agreed that it
should be adapted for the use of the parish charity school " with Seates to
be taken downe, and Planks to be taken up, upon any occasion of Burialls."
Dr. Tenison endowed the school in 1697.
In the middle of the 19th century the finances of the foundation
were in a precarious state and in 1861 the trustees, with the approval of
a Probably in connection with the King's Head alehouse in St. Martin's Lane, which
was parish property.
113
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
the Charity Commissioners, sold the library and invested the proceeds for
the benefit of the school. The school site was acquired by H.M. Commis-
sioners of Woods and Forests under the National Gallery Enlargement Act
of 1867 and the school was moved to a building erected on the site of
Hogarth's house in Leicester Square.
(iv) St. Martin s Girls' Charity School. This school was built in
1 7 96-9 7 on part of the burial ground on the south side of Hemmings Row
to accommodate girls of the charity school founded in 1699 and originally
housed in a room in Hungerford Market. In 1868, when the Hemmings
Row site was acquired for the enlargement of the National Gallery, the
school was reorganised as a secondary school and was moved to a site in
Charing Cross Road as the St. Martin's Middle School for Girls.
114
CHAPTER 1 8
ST. MARTIN'S LANE
Early History
Until the time of James I, St. Martin's Lane was a country lane
linking the churches of St. Martin-in-the-Fields and St. Giles-in-the-Fields;
as such it was probably in existence at the beginning of the 13th century,
Extract from the " dgas'" view
and there may have been a field path there even earlier. Except in the
immediate vicinity of the church, the Agas view (circa 1 560— 70) shows no
buildings in the lane, and its rural character is shown by a warrant of circa
1608 "to issue 100 1. towards making a vault (or sewer) for draining etc.
from St. Martin's Lane as far as St. Giles', so that the King's passage through
those fields shall be both sweeter and more commodious."36 In 1612 the
vestry ordered35 that the lane should be paved, but the "water of the Sewer"
was still to be "carryed above the ground." As late as 1625 it was reported
to the vestry that "St. Martin's Lane is now full of great muckhills, all W*
JI5
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Cecil, Earl of
Salisbury
by default of the Scavengers, is at this time neere 300 loads W* uppon every
Rayne is brought downe before' the King's Pallace."
Building on the open ground on either side of the lane was proscribed
by Royal Proclamation. Some efforts were made to render this proscription
effective, witness, for example, an order of the Middlesex Sessions for 1 8th
January, 1613— 14, to "John Dunne of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, yeoman,
not to convert, nor at any time hereafter during his lease being twenty years
to suffer to be converted, a stable by him newly erected in St. Martin's Lane
in the fields, to a tenement, habitation or dwelling house"; nevertheless
buildings steadily increased in number during the reigns of James I and
Charles I. In 1608-9 the Earl of Salisbury bought four acres of ground
(the original "Swan Close," see p. 4) on the west side of the lane, which
included the whole of the frontage from the parish boundary, i.e. New-
port Street, down to what is now the south-west corner of St. Martin's
Lane (just north of the Westminster City Hall), and he proceeded almost
immediately to build and lease houses there. The frontage to the new
churchyard, on the site of the National Portrait Gallery and St. Martin's
Place, was built up between 161 5 and 1624 (see p. 1 12). At the same time
the Earl of Bedford was building on the east side.
During the 1 7th century the lane was inhabited by a number of
famous people, who lived, almost without exception, on the west side, where
there were large houses with stables and coach houses annexed to them. The
east side seems to have been occupied mainly by traders and artisans. Among
the more notable residents may be mentioned Sir Theodore Mayerne
(1613—43)% physician to James I, Daniel Mytens (1622-34), painter, Sir
John Finett (1613—40), Master of the Ceremonies, Sir Ralph Freeman
(1631—38), dramatist and Master of Requests, Abraham Vanderdoort
(1630—39), keeper of the pictures of Charles I, Sir William Alexander, later
Earl of Stirling (1630-35), Carew Ralegh (1636-38), son of Sir Walter,
Scipio Lesquire (1623-26), Sir William St. Ravy (1640-41), and Sir John
Suckling (1641), the Royalist poet. During the Commonwealth period many
eminent Cromwellians lived in the lane, including Sir Philip Stapleton
(1 646-48), Major General Mytton (1 652— 55), Charles Fleetwood (1 653-70),
Sir John Clotworthy (1652—54), Sir William Armine (1644-51). The wife
of the latter, Lady Mary, "the truly honourable, very aged, and singularly
pious lady," eulogised by John Sheffield, afterwards Duke of Buckingham,
continued to live there after the death of her husband until her death in
167 5—7 6 . Among the post-restoration residents may be mentioned : — Anthony
Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury (1675—77), Dr. Edmund Dickinson
(1675—86), physician and favourite of Charles II., Colonel Panton (1666-67),
Sir Philip Warwick (1671-72), Sir Edward Hungerford (1682-85), and Sir
Charles Cotterell (1675-17 10).
In the late 17th and first half of the 1 8th century the residential part
a The dates in brackets are the years in which the persons mentioned are shown as
resident in the lane. Mayerne's tomb in the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields is illustrated on
Plate 32a.
Il6
SLAUGHTER'S COFFEE HOUSE
of the lane seems to have become a fashionable situation for doctors and
artists. Well-known members of the medical profession who lived there were
Sir Edmund King, Samuel Collins, Sir George Wakeman, Sir John Colbatch,
Gideon Harvey, and Dr. Misaubin, while the artists included Sir James
Thornhill, Van Nost, the sculptor, Francis Hayman, Sir Joshua Reynolds,
William Hogarth, Henry Fuseli, and Louis Francois Roubiliac.
Old Slaughter's Coffee House (Plate 102) at Nos. 74 and 75, on
the west side of St. Martin's Lane was founded in 1692 by Thomas Slaughter
Panelled ceiling to first floor, No. 31 St. Martin's Lane
and became a favourite resort of artists living in the neighbourhood. It
was demolished circa 1 843 when Cranborne Street was made. New Slaugh-
ter's Coffee House was established a few doors further south at No. 82
circa 1 760.
In Cecil Court, on the west side of St. Martin's Lane, the child
Mozart lodged in 1 764 at the house of " Mr. Couzin hare cutter."
No. 31, Si. Martin's Lane. — This house is now the oldest in the lane.
The exterior is in stock brickwork with stone dressings and carved panel
enrichments (Plate 106a). The ground floor which is now a shop was
formerly utilised as bank premises. The front room on the first floor has
panelled walls with arched recesses, and a panelled ceiling finished with a
deep modillion cornice. The panels which contain painted representations
117
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
UILDING
h===
^
of the seasons and other subjects are formed by ribs decorated with the
guilloche (Plate 104). The rooms to the floor above have square panelling,
and in the front room is a wood mantelpiece which has, on each side of the
fire opening, a range of blue and white tiles depicting Aesop's Fables. The
upper flight to the stairs is original.
The occupiers of this house up to 1800 as given by the ratebooks were: William Prosser
(1636-58), John Phelps (1659-65), William Morgan (1666-91), Widow Morgan (1692-94),
James Timberlake, coachmaker (169 5-1 7 2 3), Elizabeth Tim-
., ^^^----^rrzrr^lilliillllii berlake (1724-32), Richard Payne (1734-37), Charles Came
jlP^S^" ""^^^^^'i (1738—43), William Hewitt (1743-49), James Lafitte (1750-
ifl MAVo 1" 53). J°hn Smith (1754-83), Edward Bright (1784-95) an<*
Stafford Price (1796- ).
Mays Buildings. — Nos. 1 7-22 on the north
side of May's Buildings, a court between Nos. 40
and 42, St. Martin's Lane, are the original houses
built at the time of the formation of the court.
They are faced with stucco, and have flush frames
to the windows above the ground floor. The
interiors are of no interest.
In 1904, when the Coliseum was built
on the south side of
May's Buildings, the
south wall of No. 42, St. Martin's Lane was
rebuilt further back to widen the entrance to
the court, and the stone date tablet inscribed,
"May's Building: 1739," was refixed on the
new wall.
Thomas May (alias Broadmax alias
Knight) obtained in 1738 an Act of Parlia-
ment181 authorising him to grant building leases
of property in St. Martin's Lane and Feather's
Court which had been left him by Henry May,
his kinsman, by his will dated 1727. Leases
were granted to Thomas Parton, bricklayer,
who proceeded to erect May's Buildings. The
houses on the north side were taken over at
various times between 1866 and 1 9 1 3 by
Harrison & Sons, printers.182 Only 6 of the
original houses now remain. ■«■ •• "&* — ' ]° ■+ " ««■
Nos. 42, 43 and 44, St. Martin s Lane. —
These premises consist of four floors and basement. Shop fronts have been
inserted. The exteriors are in red brick. Nos. 42 and 44 have a moulded
brick band at second floor level and a brick modillion cornice to the floor
above. The window openings have brick dressings and segmental heads
with the frames slightly recessed.
No. 43 has a more elaborate front, consisting of fluted Doric pilasters
118
43
FIRST FLOOR PLAN
From a watetcolour by J. T. Wilson in the possession of the London County Council
MAYS BUILDINGS, ST. MARTIN'S LANE, IN 1870
Facing page 11S
ST. MARTIN'S LANE
extending from the first floor to the top of the second floor and finished with
a classical entablature, all in gauged brickwork (Plates 107 a and b).
Internally, the walls generally are panelled in two heights and finished
with a moulded cornice, though alterations have taken place adversely
affecting the appearance of the rooms.
The upper flights to the stairs to Nos. 43 and 44 are original and
comprise close moulded strings and turned balusters.
The plan of No. 44, reproduced here, is typical. The treatment
showing the winders to the stair landing kept back from the wall, thereby
forming a well allowing the light from the roof to reach the lower parts
1
n
55
5+
si
FIRST FLOOR. PLAN.
FIRST FLOOR PLAN
'5.f«
)'->t OP
U,
of the staircase, is a feature which can be seen in several houses of this
period in the neighbourhood (Plate ioja). As stated above, the south wall of
No 42 was rebuilt in 1904.
These three houses were built in 1739 by Thomas Parton, brick-
layer,183 at the same time that May's Buildings were erected.
According to the ratebooks and other sources the residents to 1800 were —
No. 42. — John Prignan (1739-41), Henrietta Johnson (1743), Henry Dickes (1744-45),
Wm. Ayrton (1746-48), George Rigg (1749-53), Wm. Simpson (1754-56), Elizabeth Simpson
(1757-66), John Simpson (1767-72), Charles Conolly (1773), Barth. Conolly (1774-79), Jas.
Tomlinson (1780-84), Sarah Hamilton (1785-87), R'. Spence (1789-90), Jno. Gittos, oil and
Italian Warehouse (1790- ).
No. 43. — Anthony Call (1740-42), John Clark (1743), Richard Thomson (1744-45),
Catherine Cunningham (1746), Wm. Palmer (1746-55), Jas. Nunn (1756-57), Lewis Topp
(1758-59), Jos. Treble (1760- ).
No. 44. — Williams (1742), Catherine Laroune (1743-58), Dan1. Payan, jeweller,
(1759-97), Hugh Russell (1798- ).
Nos. 45, 46 and 47, St. Martin s Lane. — These houses date from the
early 19th century, and have been much altered internally. The continuous
treatment of the shop front is an interesting feature.
119
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
up -CM t of. a
6C 6i M*anu» i««t
io-
TP
The connection of Harrison & Sons, the printers, with these
premises began in 1840, when T. R. Harrison went into partnership with
J. W. Parker at No. 45. The entrance to Kynaston's (later Chemist's)
Alley" lay formerly between Nos. 46 and 47. The alley originally extended
to Bedfordbury, but in 1 855" part of it was roofed over with glass to form a
machine room. When excavations were carried out at the Bedfordbury end
of the court in 1889, a quantity of old pottery dating mainly from the
1 6th and 17th centuries was un-
earthed. This is now preserved by
Messrs. Harrison & Sons.182
The Hop Gardens is a small
court between Nos. 49 and 50, St.
Martin's Lane, extending backward
to Bedfordbury. Prior to 1649 it
was known as Jenefer's Alley from
the occupant of a house at the
western end, Roland Jenefer. The
ratebooks from 1652 to 1655 give
the alley as Fendalls Alley, but from
1656 onward it appears as The
Flemish Hop Garden (later the Hop
Gardens). It was probably named
from an inn with that sign.b
Nos. 55 and 56, St. Martin s
Lane. — No. 55 is entered from
Goodwin's Court and is similar in
plan and wall finishings to No. $6.
The basement, however, still retains
some old brick baker's ovens con-
tinuing under the roadway. The
mantelpiece in the back room of the
first floor has characteristic archi-
trave bolection moulding, and the
front room has a carved mantelpiece
in the rococo manner.
No. 56 is on the north of the
entrance leading to Goodwin's Court
and comprises three storeys and attics, over a basement with shop to the
ground floor. The upper rooms have plain panelling in two heights with a
a Probably so called after Charles Kinastone who occupied a house at the St. Martin's
Lane end of the alley circa 1652.
b Several writers have suggested that the court was so-called from a hop garden on
the site belonging to Sir Hugh Piatt. In view of the change of name in 1655-56 this seems unlikely;
the sole reference that has been found in Piatt's works to his garden in St. Martin's Lane runs:
"If you cut down Beans as soon as they have done bearing, and that the year prove a dripping year
you may have a second crop growing from the same stalk that will come late; this I have proved in
my garden in St. Martin's Lane." 184
I20
=§■
THOMAS CHIPPENDALE
moulded cornice in wood. The upper floors are reached from a central
staircase between the front and back rooms, which extend to the full depth
of the site. The stairs have turned balusters and close moulded strings with
square newel posts, while the balustrading to the back of the half landings
is kept back from the wall, forming a small well on each floor similar to that
in No. 44 already described. The back windows of the premises have flush
frames and appear to be contemporary with the building.
Goodwin s Court first appears in the ratebooks in 1690, replacing
Fishers Alley which had occupied a similar position in preceding years, and
n w *- '*#
No. 67, St. Martin's Lane
it seems probable that the houses in the court and those on either side of it,
i.e. the present Nos. 55 and 56, St. Martin's Lane, were erected in that year.
The occupants of Nos. 55 and 56 as given by the ratebooks to 1800 were —
No. 55 — Robert Lewin (1690-93), John Rutt (1694-1702), Paul Misnier (1703-16),
Stephen Alion (1717-23), Isaac Reed (1724-25), Widow Reed (1726), Thomas Palsgrave
(1727-39), Wm. Bradbury (1740-41), Wm. Parkin (1742-59), John Bouttats (1760-66), John
Lassell (1767-78), Richard Kilsby (1779-86), and James Buer (1787- ).
No. 56 — Daniel Baxter, apothecary (1690-1714), Wm. Baxter (1715-20), James
Bouden (1772-13), Richard Kilsby (1774-95), Jane Kilsby (1796), Thos. Phillips (1799- ).
Nos. 60 and 61, St. Martin s Lane. — Rebuilt during last century.
These two houses with a stable yard and other premises at the rear were leased185 by James,
Earl of Salisbury, to Robert Burges, bricklayer, in July, 1753, and sub-let by the latter to Thomas
Chippendale and his partner, James Rennie, in August, 1754.186 Chippendale's lease was operative
from December, 1753, and it is probable that he carried out extensive alterations to the premises
to fit them for the business of cabinet making. The elder Chippendale died in 1779, and was buried
in the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields; his son, also Thomas Chippendale, carried on the busi-
ness in St. Martin's Lane, though with several changes of partnership, until 18 1 3. The plan
reproduced on the opposite page from the records of the Sun Insurance Office shows the allocation
of the premises in 1803.
No. 62. — The first and ground floors of the premises have been
121
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
redecorated and no traces remain of the early wall treatment. The top
flight of stairs has close strings with turned balusters of mid-i8th century
date. The windows at the back have flush frames.
This house was, with Nos. 60 and 61, leased by James, Earl of Salisbury, to Robert
Burges, bricklayer, on 6th July, 1753, and was probably built by Burges. The occupants given
in the ratebooks from 1753 to 1800 are: Robert Burges (1753-77), George Graham (1778-85),
John Le Mesurier (1786-87), Matt. Kerr (1788-92), Thomas Chippendale (1793—1 8 13).
Thomas Chippendale, the younger, who succeeded to his father's cabinet-making busi-
ness in 1779, took over No. 62 in 1793, and on the 1803 plan inset on p. 120, No. 62 is marked as
"Mr. Chippendale's dwelling house." Chippendale removed to the Haymarket, in 1813.
No. 63 probably dates from the early 19th century.
No. 67. — This building is sited in a courtyard off the east side of St.
Martin's Lane, behind No. 63, and is three-storeyed, of brick and timber
construction. The ground floor has been adapted and remodelled as offices.
The walls are of brick of modern work. The two upper floors appear to
retain their original framing and fenestrations, and are now used as studios
and workshops, by a firm of stage designers. They are timber framed,
plastered on the exterior, with the roof tiled.
According to a note in the ratebook these premises were "burnt out" in 1788. They
were occupied in 1789-93 by Anne Tapp, who was succeeded by Francis Tapp (1794-1803),
John Vernon (1804) and Alexander Copland (1805-13). The latter is described as a "builder"
in Holden's Trade Directory for 1805-07.
122
CHAPTER 19
NEW STREET
New Street is a narrow, sloping street leading on a slight rise from
St. Martin's Lane to King Street, Covent Garden. It was "new" in 1644,
having been built up by the 1st Duke of Bedford on the site of "Castle and
Sunne Alley," but no houses of that date now survive. Most of the houses
appear to have been occupied by artisans and small traders from the time
of their erection. One house at the east end of the south side, on the site of
the present No. 14, was considerably larger than the others and was occupied
from 1658 to 1663 by the Countess of Chesterfield and from 1664 to 1667
by Lady Stanhope. The south side still retains some houses which appear to
date from the late seventeenth and early eighteenth century. They consist
of basements and four storeys, the ground floor being converted into shops.
The fronts are in brick with plain horizontal bands at the second and third
floor levels, but the parapet wall generally has been re-built and any traces
of a cornice have been destroyed. The roofs are tiled and hipped while the
windows have flush frames (plate 109).
No. 4. — The interior has undergone some alteration and the walls
have been stripped of their panelling, though the deep moulded wood cornice
remains to the chief rooms. The upper flights of the staircase are original
and consist of moulded close strings with square newel posts and turned
balusters of a bold repeat design, reminiscent of the stone balustrading of the
period. The lower flights have similar strings but turned balusters of a later
date. The construction of the top floor has some heavy beams and there are
stout oak posts with iron riders for a heavy door which are still in position.
John Webb appears, from the ratebook entries, to have been the first occupant of this
house, but his name occurs spasmodically in the ratebooks from 1660 to 171 1 in slightly different
positions and it seems probable that the present house was erected during the later years of his
tenancy. Subsequent residents as given by the ratebooks to 1800 were: Widow Webb (1712-16),
John Tucker (1717-32), Mary Tucker (1733-34), John Vere (1735-38), Richard Lovett
(1740-43), John Giles (1743-45), Wm- Billings (1746-47), Rich. Jolley (1748-49), Jas. Dillon
(1750-51), Peter Slater (1752), Rich. Davison (1752-56), Hannah Williams (1757), Joseph
Heriot (1758-61), Jacob Boursot (1762-64), George Thompson (1765-66), Israel Coulthard
(1767), Jacob Coulthard (1768-71), James Coulthard (1772), Mary Coulthard (1773-75), John
Brown (1776-80), — Jones (1781-82), Matt. Bilger (1783 — ).
No. 5. — These premises have their fronts stuccoed and the top floor
has a series of casements with the sashes opening inwards (Plate 109^).
There are some interesting ledged and battened doors and round the fireplace
in the first floor front room is a carved architrave moulding. The stairs
have a panelled dado and moulded close strings with turned balusters of a
light design. Some of the rooms still retain their panelling.
The occupants of this house can be traced back in the ratebooks to a Francis Fulbrooke
who is entered in the appropriate position from 1666 to 1700. It is possible that the house was built
during his tenancy. Later occupants of the house to 1800 as given by the ratebooks were: Wm.
Ordway (1701-03), Rich. Raynes (1703-04), Douse Quant (1705-09), John Colea (1710-n),
Russell, Duke of
Bedford
John Cole is entered in the 171 1 ratebook as a "scowerer."
123
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
William Haly (1712-21), Peter Joyous (1722-25), Paul Clauden (1726-27), Tho. Faulkener
(1728-42), Jacob Boursot (1743-67), — Bourne (1768-83), Geo. Downing (1783 — ).
No. 9. — The main feature of interest is the staircase which continues
from the ground to the top floor with a balustrading of spiral balusters, close
moulded strings and square newels with shaped pendants. The walls have a
panelled dado.
The house appears to date from the late seventeenth century and, since
it cannot be traced in the ratebooks before 1683, that is probably the date of
its erection.
List of Residents. Edm. Godwin (1683-89), Henry Lukin (1690-97), John Knowles
(1698-99), Edm. Godwin (1699-1700), Edm. Meadows (1701), James Brisac (1702-05), Tho.
Davies (1706-07), Jas. Swaine" (1708-14), Tho. West (1715-25), Jarvis Marten (1726-65),
James Eves (1766-69), Widow Ann Eves (1771-73), — Flemings (1774-77), Edw. Bourne
(1778-79), Chas. Presbury (1780 — ).
No. 13. — The original stair balusters have been removed, but the
moulded close strings and square newels appear to be original. Some of the
rooms still retain their panelling and the stairs have a panelled dado.
The date of the erection of this house has not been ascertained. The occupants from
1698 to 1800 as given by the ratebooks were: John Nayland (1698-1709), Thos. Arton (1710),
Matt. Jenkinsonb (171 1-29), Chas. Carleton (1730), Wm. Wallis (1731-32), Chas. Carleton
(1733-52), Zachariah Carleton (1753-73), Thos. Stiff (1774 — ).
a The 171 1 ratebook states that James Swaine was a dyer by trade.
b Matt. Jenkinson is entered in the 171 1 ratebook as a "taylor."
I24
CHAPTER 20
LONG ACRE
The formation of the parish of St. Paul, Covent Garden, in 1645 left
a long strip of ground between the northern boundary of that parish and
Castle Street, Long Acre, the northern boundary of the parish of St. Martin-
in-the-Fields; through this strip runs the street called Long Acre. The
street takes its name from a field known as Long Acre, which consisted origin-
ally of 7 acres and was purchased158 by Henry VIII, together with Covent
Garden adjoining it on the south, from the Abbey of Westminster. It was
then held on lease by William Browne. In July, 1547, Long Acre and Covent
Garden were granted26 to Edward, Duke of Somerset, the Protector, who,
four years later, in December, i^i, was sentenced to death in Westminster
Hall. We are told that the people "supposing he had been clerely quitt,
when they see the axe of the Tower put downe, made such a shryke and cast-
inge up of caps, that it was heard into the Long Acre beyonde Charinge
Crosse." i«
In May, 1552, John, Earl of Bedford, obtained a grant "of the land
called le Covent Garden; and the 7 ac. land and pasture called Long Acre
abutting on St. Martin's Lane on the west, on Foscue [Drury] Lane on the
East, on the Strand on the south, and upon the land called Elmfield pertain-
ing to the Mercers' Company on the north, to hold as of the Manor of East
Greenwich."26 Bedford's descendants retained possession of this property
almost down to the present day.
Elmfield, to the north of Long Acre, was not bought by Henry VIII,
but remained in the possession of the Mercers' Company. In 16 14 the Mer-
cers granted a 30 years' lease of it to Thomas, Earl of Exeter, who in the
following year sold his lease to Sir William Slingsby. The street called Long
Acre was laid out at about this time by Slingsby and the Earl of Bedford, the
line of the street following approximately the line of the common boundary
of their properties. Thenceforth the term Long Acre was frequently applied
to the ground on both sides of the street, and in 1650 when the Mercers'
ground was surveyed it was referred to as "Elme Close alias Long Acre,"
and a certain Captain Disher tried to prove that it was part of the property
purchased by Henry VIII.188
From 1 61 6 onward there were frequent complaints about buildings
in Long Acre erected "contrary to the King's Proclamation." In 1630
Francis, Earl of Bedford and Sir Henry Cary (then tenant of Elmfield)
replied to a letter ordering them "to cleanse and make passable the way
called Long Acre" that their predecessors had granted long leases of their
lands adjoining the street "in hope to procure fair and spacious buildings to
be there erected," and that if the King would give them leave to build they
would "pave and keep it as well as any other street in London."36
Part of Elmfield was granted by Slingsby to the Churchwardens of
St. Clement Danes for use as a laystall. In 1636 this laystall was condemned
by the Justices of the Peace for Westminster as a "nuisance," but the
125
Mercers' Company
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Churchwardens successfully appealed against this decision by stating that
the houses in the neighbourhood had been built since the formation of the
laystall and "the building of houses there is a greater nuisance and incon-
venience to the public than the placing of the laystall can be."36 Neverthe-
less by various shifts and expedients building went on. In December, 1637,
William Portington, Lieutenant of the Horse for Middlesex, appealed
against an order of the Commissioners for Buildings for the demolition of his
shed fronting Long Acre. Portington argued that his building was not "a
shed" which he defined as "a leaning to something to bear up the roof"
whereas "this roof bears itself and at its first erecting as a tenement it was
built for one."36 In the same year another petitioner, Thomas Cooke, stated
that Long Acre was "almost wholly built."36 The Parliamentary Survey188
shows that the street was fairly well lined with small houses and shops in
1650. Mercer Street and Cross Lane were also built up, the latter being on
the site of what is now Neal Street (formerly King Street). Feather Alley,
Knockle Alley and Dirty Lane or Street were also mentioned as turnings out
of the north side of Long Acre.
Among the early residents may be mentioned Oliver Cromwell
(1637—43), Nicholas Stone, sculptor (1615—45), John Parkinson, botanist
(1626-45), and Sir John Temple (1645). John Taylor, the "water-poet."
took the Crown Inn in Hanover Court after the fall of Oxford in 1645.
Scipio Lesquire, who owned much property in the parish, and after whom
Lesquire Street (later Chandos Street) was named, also lived in Long Acre
(1627—59), as did Major-General Skippon (1645-49), the Earl of Peter-
borough (1665-74), John Dryden (1668-86), Lady Mary St. John, mother
of Viscount Bolingbroke (1655-92), and Adrian Vandiest, Dutch landscape
painter (1 698-1 704). Thomas Stothard, artist, was born at the Black Horse
Inn in 1755.
On the 1875 Ordnance Survey several "coach manufactories" are
shown on the north side of the street, and leases of the Mercers' Company
show that the connection of this trade with the locality dates back to the late
1 7th century.
Nos. 1 6-20. — These premises, which appear to have been built circa
1690, have plain brick fronts of two storeys over shops and with attics (Plate
1 10). A plain projecting band denotes the second floor level while the win-
dows have their frames flush with the wall face. The shops are of later date.
In No. 19 the upper flights of the staircase are original and have spiral
balusters, square newel posts and close moulded strings, but the lower flight
and the side entrance have been altered. Some of the rooms still retain
bolection moulded panelling in two heights with a deep wooden cornice.
On the first floor is a mantelpiece with plain stone jambs and a keyed flat
arched lintel.
Condition. — Fair .
List of Occupants to i8oo.a No. 16 — Edward (Edmond) Vialls (1690-17 17), Amos
Vialls (1718-42), Vialls Widow (1743), Jas- Cope (1744-47), James Rigby (1747-49), Jeremiah
a From the ratebooks.
126
LONG ACRE
Wills (1749-52), Sunibank Giles (1753-79), John Randall (1780-85), Thos. Cox (1786-89),
Barbor and Harvey (1790-97), Jas. Scoles (1797- ).
No. 17. — Isaac Deloone (1690-92), Samuel Watson (1693-1712), Wra. Casteele
(1713-14), John Bird (1715-23), Edward Middlebrook (1724-25), Joseph Mason (1726),
Edward Mason (1727), Thos. Cotterell (1728-50), George Hall (1751-52), John Bedford
(1752-57), John Hurst (1758-61), Sarah Hurst (1762), John Reynolds (1762-67), Joseph
Carter (1768), Henry Edgecomb (1769-71), Thomas Faucit (1772-73), Thomas Moyston
(• 774-76), Thomas Wood (1777-78), Evan Powell (1779-80), John Crookham or Cookham
(1781-88), Tho. Wooden (1789-91), Tempest Holt (1791-93), Jno. Crockham (1794-96),
Hannah Crockham (1797), John Mansfield (1798), Evan Jones (1799- ).
No. 18. — John Perismore ( 1 690-1 703), Owen Davis ( 1 704-1 8), Lewis Gyatt (171 9-21),
James Hurst (1722-25), Samuel Hurst (1726-32), Samuel! Steele (1733), Christopher White
(1734-55), Henry Todd (1755-67), — Hill (1768), Thos. Dawson (1769-79), John Whitaker
(1780-81), Geo. Salt (1782- ).
No. 19. — Thos. Burton (1690-1704), Jonathan Farren (1705-16), Wm. West
(1717-20), Rich. Messenger (1721-22), John Chiselston (1723-30), Samuel Davison (1731-33),
Bartholomew Kilpin (1734-41), Peter Planck (1742-70), Miss Planck (1771-73), Peter Planck
& Co. (1774-96), Renigall Briand (1797-98), — Planck (1799- )•
No. 20. — Jas. English (1686-96), Edw. Luttrell (1698-99), Charles Pennycock (1700),
Augustine Ingeno (1701), Alexander Bracket (1702-03), Richard Yates (1704-27), Yates Widow
(1728-30), Thomas Turner (1731), Rio Hubbard (1731-40), John Gibson (1742-45), Savile
(Samuel) Samber (1747-53) (1754-1800 occupied with No. 19).
Conduit Court between Nos. 17 and 18, appears to have taken its name from Leonard
Conduit who is rated there in 1689-90. It is described by Strype as "indifferent broad with a
free-stone pavement, and passage to Hart Street; a court indifferently well built and inhabited."
No. 17, Long Acre, the Bird in Hand, has been so called for well over 200 years.
Langley Court, a narrow thoroughfare leading out of Long Acre on
the southern side between Nos. 34 and 35, has some interesting bay
windows. It was known until 1 846 as Leg Alley, probably from the house
at the corner which in the 1 8th century had the sign of the Golden Leg.
The south side of the court appears to have been erected circa 1759—61, pro-
bably by Thomas Prior of St. Giles-in-the-Fields, bricklayer.
No. 52, Long Acre. — This house appears to date from the middle
of the 1 8th century but the interior has been entirely altered.
List of Residents to 1800: Timothy Raikes (1730-32), Ignatius Couran (1734-35).
Mary Hancock (1736-40), John Shelton or Sheinton (1741-60), Edward Brain (1761), John
Plunkett (1762), Jas. Rowles (1765-75), Henry Frost (1776), John Barber (1777-80), John
Windeatt (1781-82), Richard Mortimer (1783-85), Richard Norris (1786), Jas. Carter (1787-92),
Harriet Pearce (1793- ).
127
APPENDIX A
VICARS OF ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS3
Lancaster of
Stockbridge
Pearce
Date of
Name
Date of
Name
Appointment
Appointment
[/. Henry II
1572-3
William Wells
Henry III]
William Capellanus
1574
Thomas Langhorne
[1300]
Aleyn 189
1574-5
William Ireland
[ijh]
Thomas de Elmstowe 190
1577
Christopher Hayward
[1352]
John de Kerseye
1588
William Fisher
[1357]
John De Barshame 28
1591
Thomas Knight
[1363]
Thos. Skyn de West Bargham
1602
Thos. Mountford
1363
John Atte water
1632-3
William Bray*
1383
William Foucher, alias Foger
1641-2
John Wincopp
1384
John Jakes
1643
Thos. Strickland
[!39°]
Simon Lambel
1644
Daniel Cawdrey*
1 390-1
John Wymbleton
16483
Gabriel Sangar*
1393
Nicholas Sprotte
1 66 1
Nich. Hardy
1393
John Larke
1670
Thos. Lamplugh*
1393-4
John Martyn
1676
Wm. Lloyd*
1400
John Loudham
1680
Thomas Tenison*
[1406]
John Stokes
1692
Wm. Lancaster*
[1420]
John Staynton
1693
Nicholas Gouge
[1425-6]
Ralph Webbe
1694
Wm. Lancaster*
1430
Thomas Laurence
1716-7
Thomas Green*
H33-4
Dionysius Kyrban
1723-4
Zachariah Pearce*
H34
Richard Jankyn
1756
Erasmus Saunders*
[1456]
Richard Valens
1776
Anthony Hamilton
[1487]
Robert Everard
1812
Joseph Holden Pott*
1515-6
William Sore
1824
George Richards*
1517
Peter Whalley
1834
Sir Hen. Robert Dukinfield
1521-2
Simon Michel
1848
Henry Mackenzie
1521-2
William Skinner
1855
Wm. Gilson Humphrey
[i539]
Edmund Watson
1886
John Fenwick Kitto
1539
Robert Beste
1903
Leonard Edmund Shelford
1554
Thos Wells
1914
Hugh Richard Laurie Sheppard
[1572]
Robert Beste
1927
Wm. Patrick Glyn McCormick
a Except where another reference is given both names and dates have been taken from
the Rev. George Hennessy's Novum Repertorium Ecclesiasticum Parochiale Londinense . When
the exact date of appointment is unknown the earliest date in which the name occurs in connection
with the benefice is given in square brackets. Names of vicars marked with an asterisk have a notice
in the Diet. Nat. Biog.
128
REFERENCES
1. Private Act 23 Hy. VIII c. 33.
2. P.R.O., Ancient Deed B5868.
3. P.R.O., L.R. 1/41 fo. 193d.
4. Ibid., 57 fo. 134.
5. P.R.O., C 66/2313/5.
6. P.R.O., C 54/2555/32.
7. Ibid., 2637/6.
8. Ibid., 2849/29.
9. P.R.O., L.R. 1/43 fo. 62.
10. P.R.O., E 178/1397.
11. P.R.O., L.R. 1/42 fo. 313.
12. P.R.O., C 66/1225.
13. P.R.O., L.R. 1/43 fo. 97.
14. P.R.O., C 54/1365.
15. Ibid., 3018.
16. P.R.O., E 321/14/4.
17. Hatfield MSS.
18. P.R.O., L.R. 1/39.
19. P.C.C., 9 Mellershe.
20. P.R.O., C.P. 25(2) 171 Mich. 13-14
Eliz.
21. P.C.C., 36 Pickering.
22. P.R.O., C.P. 25(2) 173 Trin. 41 Eliz.
23. P.R.O., C 142/266/83.
24. P.R.O., C 3/1 1/76.
25. Brayley and Britton, Westminster Palace
and P.R.O. Various Accounts E
101/467/6,7 etc.
26. Cal. of Pat. Rolls.
27. P.R.O., C 47/4/4.
28. Diet. Nat. Biog.
29. B.M. Add. MS. 25459, p. 206.
30. Cal. L. and P. Hy. Fill.
31. Westminster Manor Accounts, P.R.O.,
E 36/251.
32. Stow, Survey of London, ed. Kingsford.
33. P.R.O., E 351/3326 "dyverse charges
done upon the newe buyldings at the
mewse."
34. P.R.O., E 101/474/25. "Charges done
for and at the muse, 1559."
35. St. Martin-in-the-Fields Vestry Minutes.
36. Cal. of S. P. Dom.
37. Westminster Library Collection of Prints.
38. The City Remembrancia. Analytical Index.
39. Pepys' Diary.
40. Wren Society Trans. XII.
41. Ralph, A critical Review of the Public
Buildings, 1734.
42. Noorthouck, History of London.
43. Entry Books of H.M. Commissioners of
Woods and Forests, preserved in the
Crown Lands Office.
44. Letters of Horace IValpole, ed. Toynbee.
45. Cal. of Westminster Abbey Reg. I, fo. 64b.
46. P.R.O., E 318/73 (Partic. for Grant) 37
Hy. VIII, Middx.
47. P.R.O., C 3/44/76.
48. P.R.O. , L.R. 1/43 fo. no.
49. Ibid., 42 fo. 534.
50. Ibid., 55 fo. 141.
5 1 . John Taylor, The Carriers Cosmographie .
52. Middx. Reg. 1729/1 1 1/209.
53. Ibid., 1749/1 1/687.
54. Survey of London, XVIII.
5 5 . Report of the Commissioners on Charities,
1837. Report 32, Part 6.
56. Bethlem Hospital Muniments.
57. P.R.O., L.R. 1/270, fo. 175.
58. P.R.O., C 66/1046.
59. Ibid., 1759/9.
60. P.R.O., C 54/3332/3.
61. Middx. Reg. 1710/1/84.
62. Ibid., 1731/1/114.
63. P.R.O., L.R. 1/271.
64. P.R.O., C 54/3469/14.
65. Annual Register.
66. Act 7 Geo. IV c. 77.
67. John Summerson, John Nash.
68. Minutes of Evidence of the Select Com-
mittee on Trafalgar Square, 1840.
69. Information supplied by H.M. Office of
Works.
70. Westminster Abbey Muniments, Domes-
day Book.
71. Ibid., Deeds 17141-2.
72. P.R.O., Star Chamber 8/101/9.
73. John Everard, D.D., Gospel Treasury
Opened, 1659.
74. P.C.C., 537 Pell.
75. Hatton, A New View of London.
76. Act 6 Geo. 11 c. 62.
77. Account book now kept in the church
vestry.
78. R. B. Wood, Sacrilege at St. Martin's, in
St. Martin's Review, June, 1938.
79. P.R.O., Court of Requests 2/124/26.
80. P.R.O., C 54/4524/29 and 30.
8 1 . Act 1 3 and 14 Chas. II, c. 6.
82. Middx. Reg. 1737, IV, 595, etc.
83. W. Hunter, Charing Cross Hospital, 19 14.
84. B. M. Egerton MSS. 2221.
85. Hentzner, Journey into England, 1598.
86. Middx. Sessions Rolls n, p. 68.
87. P.R.O., E 351/3215.
88. P.R.O., S.P. 14/53.
129
TRAFALGAR SQUARE
89. P.R.O., L.R. 1/44.
90. P.R.O., Star Chamber Proc. 8/176/9.
91. P.R.O., C 66/2567/4.
92. Letters and Dispatches of Thomas, Earl of
Strafford, ed. W. Knowles.
93. P.R.O., C 66/2964/1;.
94. P.R.O.,T 1/LXXXVI/75.
95. P.R.O., L.R. i/6i,fol 330.
96. P.R.O., T 54/26, p. 47.
97. Middx. Reg. 1723, II, 120.
98. Cal. of Treas. Books.
99. P.R.O., L.S. 13/173, p. 121.
00. Middx. Reg. 1752, II, 148.
01. Ibid., 1753, III, 224, etc.
02. Read's Weekly Journal, 25th Sept., 1 731.
03. P.R.O., L.R. 1/64.
04. Middx. Reg. 17 13, VI, 183.
05. Deeds in the possession of the London
County Council.
06. Survey of London, XIV.
07. Malcolm, Londinium Redivivum, IV.
08. P.R.O.,T 29/32.
09. Middx. Reg. 1757, III, 42.
10. Ibid., 1780, IV, 192.
n. Mercurius Politicus Redivivus. B.M.
Add. MSS. 10, 116.
12. P.R.O., Rentals and Surveys 11/42.
13. P.R.O.L.C. 5/134.
14. Cal. of Treas. Books and Papers.
15. P.R.O., C 82/2374.
16. P.R.O., Works 5/25-32.
17. Luttrell, Brief Relation . . .
18. P.R.O., L.R. 1/64, fo. 1 1 1-2.
19. Letters of Lady Mary Worthy Montague,
ed. Thomas.
20. P.R.O. T 55/2.
21. London Evening Post, Dec. 1732.
22. J. Fielding, Description of the Cities of
London and Westminster, 1776.
23. The Farington Diary.
24. Sixth Report of H.M. Commissioners of
Woods and Forests.
25. W. H. Pyne, The History of Carlton House.
26. Blanchard Jerrold, Napoleon III, II,
pp. 86-7.
27. Gent. Mag.
28. Beckles Willson, American Ambassadors to
England.
29. Frances, Baroness Bunsen, A Memoir of
Baron Bunsen.
30. Bulwer Lytton, Life of Lord Palmerston,
III.
31. Cambridge History of Foreign Policy, III.
32. Heading for the Abyss, Prince Lichnowsky.
33. Lord Morley, Life of Gladstone, 11
130
54
35
36
37.
39
40.
4i-
42-
43-
44-
45-
46.
47-
48.
49-
50.
Si-
52.
53'
54.
55-
56.
57-
58.
59-
ho.
61.
62.
63-
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
7i-
72.
73-
74-
75-
76.
77-
P.C.C., 10 Fetiplace.
London and Middlesex Fines.
P.R.O..E 357/3224.
P.R.O., Pari. Survey E 317 Middx. 86.
P.R.O., L.R. 1/62.
Hist. MSS. Com., MSS. of S. H. Le
Fleming, p. 74.
P.R.O., L.R. 1/63.
Middx. Reg. 1741,1,288.
Report from the Select Committee on Crown
Leases.
J. Elmes, Metropolitan Improvements.
P.R.O.,P.C. 2/55, p. 365.
Act 14 Chas. II, c. 2.
P.R.O., S.P. 29/71, No. 52.
P.R.O., C 66/3304/14.
Act 8 &9 Wm. Ill, c. 17.
Minutes of Commissioners for the Hay-
market. At the Middlesex Guildhall.
Act 2 Wm. & Mary, c. 2.
Minutes of the Westminster Commis-
sioners of Sewers. In the possession of
the London County Council.
Middx. Reg., 1741, II, 269.
E. W. Brayley, London Theatres, 1826.
Middx. Reg. 1729, VI, 379.
Contemporary Pamphlet.
Appendix to Fourth Report H.M. Woods
and Forests.
P.R.O., E 317 Pari. Survey, Middx., 38.
P.R.O., S.C. 12/3/13.
P.R.O. ,E 315/219.
B.M. Harl. Ch. 77, fo. 44.
P.R.O., C.P. 25(2) Middx. 171 East. 5
Eliz.
P.R.O., Exch. Spec. Com. 2973.
P.R.O., C.P. 25(2) 324 East. 17 Jas. I.
Ibid., 457 Hil. 13 Chas. I.
P.R.O., C 66/2567/4.
C. L. Kingsford, Piccadilly, Leicester
Square, and Soho.
P.R.O., E 317 Middx., 73.
P.R.O., C 54/4383/32-
James Elmes, Life of Sir Christopher
Wren.
P.R.O., C 54/4168/26.
Ibid., 4317/24-
Middx. Reg. 17 12, IV, 55, etc.
Allardyce Nicoll, lith Century Drama,
1700-1750.
Middx. Reg. 1790, II, 63.
R. W. Frere, History of Orange Street
Chapel.
P.R.O., C 66/171 1.
Ibid., 2632 and Vestry Minutes.
REFERENCES
178.
Middx. Reg. 171 1, IV, 85.
179.
Act 12 Geo. Ill, c. 35.
180.
Strand Union Board ]
1871.
181.
Private Act 2 Geo. II, c. 9.
182.
The House of Harrison.
183.
Middx. Reg. 1738, III, 129;
117, etc.
Minutes,
I74L I.
184. Sir Hugh Piatt, The Garden of Eden, Part
II, 1659 (from a MS. written c. 1600).
185. Middx. Reg. 1754, I, 356.
186. Ibid., 1754, III, 172.
187. Wriothesley's Chronicle, Camden Society.
188. P.R.O., E 317, Middx. 81.
189. P.R.O., S.C. 8/313.
190. Westminster Abbey Muniments, 28794.
131
INDEX
Page
Abercromby, J. - - - - - -81,84
Abingdon Abbey ----- 2, 3
Acton, Anthony _____ 87
Adams, G. G. ----- - 18
Adams, William - - - - - 105
Addington, Henry, Lord Sidmouth - 61
Adelaide Street - - - 56, plates 36-, 37.
Adlard, Charles ------ 44
Admiralty, The - - 18 n., 60, 62, 63, 65
Admiralty Arch - _____ 63
Agar Street ______ 56
"Agas" map view - - - 19,58,115
Albemarle, Duke of - - - - - 9
Alexander, James - - - - -83,84
Alexander, Lord _____ 84.
Alexander, Robert _____ 84
Alexander, Sir William, afterwards Earl
of Stirling - - - - - - 116
Aleyn (vicar of St. Martin's) - - - 128
Alford, Viscount _____ 70,
Alion, Stephen - - - - - - 121
American Embassy, German Division - 84
Amick, John ______ 98
Ancaster, Peregrine, 3rd Duke of - - 86
Andrews, Richard _____ 105
Angell, Thomas _____ 4.9
Angell, William _____ 89
Angerstein, John Julius - - - - 15
Anglo-German Club - - 81
Anne of Bohemia _____ 7
Antrobus, Edmund and Ann - - - 52
Arblay, Madame D' {nle Burney) - - 108
Arbuthnot, Chas. _____ 80
Ardilaun, Arthur, 1st Baron - - -85,86
Arlington, Henry, Earl of - - 60
Arlington House _____ (,Q
Armine, Lady Mary - - - - 116
Armine, Sir William - - - - 116
Armistead, Mr. Richard - - - - 34
Artari, Signor ------ 26
Artists, Society of - - - - - 67
Arton,Thos ______ 124
Arundel and Surrev, Earl of, 14th Duke
ofNorfolk -'----- 85
Arundell, George, Joseph, Mary and
Richard ______ -59
Arundel Place ------ 96
Ashton, William - - - - -5,112
Athenium Club - - - - -15,81
Page
Attewater, John - - - - - 128
Aubery, Edward _____ Tj
Auditors of Land Revenue - 61
Austin, Mary — — — — — — 39
Awdeley, Hugh ----- 3 n.
Ayres, Sarah, Ann and James - - - 40
Ayrton, Wm. ------ 119
Bacon, Andries ------ 46
Bacon, Francis and Edward - - - 31
Bacon, Thomas and James - - - 10
Bagutti, Signor ------ 26
Baily, Edward Hodges - 18
Baker, James ______ 106
Baker, John ------ 106
Baker, Mary, afterwards Oxenden - - 101
Baker, Robert - - - - - 101,106
Baker, Samuel ------ 106
Baker, William ------ 1 r
Balfour, Arthur James - -80,81
Balfour, John ______ 86
Balfour, Lieut.-Gen. Robert - 86
Barber, Catherine ----- 98
Barber, John ------ 127
Barbon, Nicholas _____ 56
Barbor and Harvey - - - - - 127
Baring, Henry ------ 81
Barnes, Susanna and Robert - - - 50
Barracks, old, at Charing Cross - Plate 3_
Barry, Charles ------ 16
Barry, Mary ------ 46
Barshame, John de - - - - - 128
Bate, Rev. Charles ----- 43
Bath, Marquess of - - - - - 83
Baxter, Daniel and Wm. - - - - 121
Baxter, Richard- _____ 102
Baynard's Castle _____ 7
Baythorn, Martha, Edward, Mary, John
and Lucy ______ 48
Bear Street ______ 5
Bearsted, Viscount ----- 79
Beatty, Lord ______ 17
Beaumont, William, Viscount 2
Beaumont's Land - - - - - 2,3
Beckett, Sarah - - - - - - 105
Bedford, Francis, Earl of- - - 116,125
Bedford, John ------ 1 27
Bedford, John, Duke of - 7
Bedford, John, Earl of - - - - 125
133
Page
Bedford, Duke of ----- 123
Bedfordbury --____r20
Behnes, W. ______ \-j
Belcher, Mr. --____ 1 1
Bell, Sarah Ann - - - - - 33
Bennett, Sir Henry, Earl of Arlington - 59
Bentinck, Miss ------- 86
Bentley, Thos. - - - - - - 105
Beresford, Lord William de la Poer - 83
Berkehead, John and Henry - - - 37
Berkeley House ------ 66, 70
frontispiece, plate 49.
Berkeley, James, 3rd Earl of - - - 66
Berkeley, 4th, 5th and 6th Earls of- - 66
Bernstorff, Count _____ 84
Bernstorff, Count Albrecht - - - 84
Best, Henry ______ 3
Best, John - — — — — — — 5 h.
Best, Robert - — — - — — 5 _.
Beste, Robert - - - - - - 128
Bethlem Hospital - - - - -10-13
Bettesworth, Peter ----- 32
Bevington, Messrs. ----- 28
Bieberstein, Baron Adolf Marschall von 84, 85
Bigg, Huntley ------ 106
Bilger, Matt. - - - - - - 123
Billings, Wm. ------123
Bilson, Edith - - - 32, plate 28-
Bird, John -------127
Bird in Hand, The - - - - - 127
Birrell, James - - - - - - 105
Bish, Thomas - - - - - -12,14
Black Horse Inn - - - - - 126
Blackman, John Lucie - - 34
Bliburgh, Isaac ------ 98
Blomfield, Mary and Samuel - - - 41
Bloomsbury ______ 8
Blue Cross Street - - - 104, 106, 109
BlueMews,The - - 3,106,109,112
Bolingbroke, Viscount - - - - 126
Bonaparte, Prince Louis Napoleon 78, 79
Bossom, A. C. ------ 81
Bouden, James - - - - - - 121
Boulton, George _____ 14.
Bourne, ------124
Bourne, Edw. ------124
Boursot, Jacob ----- 123, 124
Bouttats, John - - - - - - 121
Bowers, William, Edward and Elizabeth 105
Bowling Green in Spring Garden - - 59
Boyle, Henry, Baron Carleton - - 71
Boyle, Richard, Earl of Cork, and Lady
Katherine -_-___ 32
Bracket, Alexander - - - - - 127
Bradbury, Anne, Silas and Richard - - 44
Bradbury, Wm. _____ 121
Braham, Charles B. ----- 81
134
Page
Braham, John ------ 82
Brain, Edward ------127
Brandenburg, Count - - - - 84
Bray, William ------ 128
Braybrooke, Richard, 2nd Lord - - 86
Breckenridge, Alen and Frances - - 45
Briand, Renigall ----- 127
Bridall, Walter - - - - - -12,13
Bridgeman, William - - - - - 27
Bright, Edward - - - - - - 118
Bright, Thomas - - - - - 105
Brightman, William - - - - - 3 n.
Brisac, James ------124
Broadmax (alias May alias Knight),
Thomas— - - - - - - 118
Brooke, Elizabeth and Henry Vaughan 36
Brooke, George, Lord - - - -81,82
Broome, Charlotte Ann and Ralph - - 33
Broune, Henry - - - - - - 113
Brown, John ______ 123
Brown, Lucy and Christopher - - 50
Brown, Sarah, Isaac, George and Louisa 40
Browne, John - - - - - - 58 n.
Browne, William - - - - - 125
Brownlow, Adelbert, 3rd Earl - - 83
Brownlow, Earl _____ 84
Brownlcw, 1st Earl ----- 79
Bruce, C. Dashwood - - - - 84
BrudeneO, James, Lord - - - - 87
Brunswick, Princess of - - - - 73
Brushfield, Thomas and Elizabeth - - 39
Buccleuch, Ann, Duchess of - - - no
Buck, Olave - - - - - -11,12
Buckingham House ----- 74
Buckingham, John, Duke of - - - 116
Buckingham Palace - - - 60, 75,76 n.
Buckly, Timothy _____ ID5
Buer, James - - - - - — 121
Buildings, Commissioners for - - - 1 26
Bunhill (Burnell), John - - - - 105
Bunsen, Christian, Baron von - 83, 84, 85
Buntinge, Mary ----- 3 n.
Burges, Robert ----- 121,122
Burley, Sir Simon de - - - - 7
Burlington, Richard, 3rd Earl of - - 72, 74
Burn, William, John, Mary and Frances 48
Burnell (Bunhill), John - - - - 105
Burney, Dr. Charles - - - - - 108
Burney, Fanny (Madame D'Arblay) - 108
Burton, Decimus - - - - 57,68,77
Burton Lazar, Hospital of - - - 2,3
Burton, Thos. ------127
Butt, Sir Alfred- ----- 81
Calcroft, John Hales - - - - 86
Caledon, Du Pre, 2nd Earl of - - 83, 84
Caledon, James, 3rd Earl of - - - 83, 84
Page
Call, Anthony ------119
Callaghan.D. ------ 87
Camden, Marquess ----- 83
Campbell, Lord Frederick _ - - 61
Campbell, M., K., and Frances - - 46
Campion, Richard ----- 96
Canaletto's view of Charing Cross - - 14
Canning, George ----- 61
Cannon and Musket, The - - - 98
Careless, William ----- 95
Carew, J. E. ______ 18
Carey, Eliza, John, Frances and Honour 44
Carleton, Chas. and Zachariah - - 124
Carleton, George ----- 10
Carleton, Henry, Baron - - - - 71
Carlingford, Lord ----- 81
Carlisle, Earl of- ----- 90
Carlton Gardens 6, 69, 77-82, plates 72, 76
Carlton House 1 5, 69-76, 77, plates 54-64
riding stables - - -77,78
Carlton House Terrace - - 6, 69, 77, 78,
82-87, plates 65-71,73-75, 77
Carne, Charles - - - - - - 118
Carr, Sir Edward - 3,4,10111.
Carr, Elizabeth - - 4, 101 n.
Carr, Gabriel ------ 4 n.
Carr, Jane {ne'e Onslow) - - - -3,411
Carr, Mary {nee Connock) - - - 4 n.
Carr, Philadelphia (nie Connock) - - 4 n.
Carr, Robert — - - - - - 3,4
Carrington, Caleb - - - - - 105
Carrold, John and Joan - - - - 105
Carter, Jas. ------ 127
Carter, Joseph ------127
Cartwright, Abraham - - - -12,14
Cartwright, Sir Hugh - - - - 113
Cary, Sir Henry - - - - - 125
Casteele, Wm. — -----127
Castle and Sunne Alley - - - - 123
Castle Street, Leicester Square 5, 55, 112, 113,
plates 99a, 1 00a, 101
Castle Street, Long Acre - - - - 125
Cawdrey, Daniel - - - - - 128
Cecil Court - 117, plate 99^
Cibber, Theophilus ----- 98
Chandos Street - - -57,1 26, plate 36^
Chantry, Sir Francis- - - - - 17
Chaplin, Henry, Viscount - - -81,82
Charing _____-- 1
Charing Cross - - - 1,9,56,58,60,63
Nos. 1-9 - _ - - 11
Charing Cross Act - - - 15,16,56
Charing Cross Hospital - - 57, plate 38a
Charing Cross Road - - - 109,112,114
Charity Commissioners - - - - 114
Charles II------- 69
Charles Street ------ 99
Page
Chequer Court ------ 11
Chequer Inn ----- - 10-12
Chere, Miss de la ----- 81
Chester, Eliza Jane ----- 94
Chesterfield, Countess of - - - - 123
Chesterfield, Earl of - - 72
Chetwynd, William ----- 66
Chippendale, Thomas, the elder - - 121
Chippendale, Thomas, the younger - 120,
121, 122
Chiselston, John - - - - - 127
Choate, Joseph H. ----- 82
Cholmondeley, Dowager Marchioness of 86
Cholmondeley, George, 2nd Marquess - 86
Cholmondeley, Lord Henry - - 86
Christian, Joseph, Margaret, Thomas
and John ______ 44
Church Lane - - - - - - 55 n.
Churchyard, New - 5,20,112
Churchyard, Old ----- 55
Churchyard Lane - - - - 1 1 2
Clanricarde, 3rd Marquess of- - - 82, 83
Clarges, Sir Thomas - _ - - - 22
Clark, John ------ 119
Clarke, Mary and Robert George - 34
Clauden, Paul ------ 1 24
Clayton, Robert - 35
Clayton and Bell ----- 27
Cleghorn, Robert and Margaret - - 45
Cleveland, Duchess of - - - - 70
Clifden, Viscount ----- 81
Clifton, Thos. ------ 84
Clotworthy, Sir John - - - - 116
Clutterbuck, Charles - - - - 95
Cobden, Richard ----- 92
Cock, David ------ 67
Cockerel], C. R. ----- 15
Cockspur Street- 66, 71, 88, 89, 90, 96, 104,
plate 94a
Coesvelt, W. G. ----- 80
Colbatch, Sir John - - - - - 117
Cole, John- ------ 123
Cole, Robert ------ 10
Colinge, Benjamin and Cathrine - - 53,
plate 31^
Coliseum, The - - - - - - 118
Collett, John ------ 92
Collins, Samuel - - - - - - 117
Colman, George - - - - - 99
Colmanhedge Lane, see Hedge Lane
Colnaghi, Frederick, Paul and Elizabeth 5 1
Colverson, Widow - - - - - 105
Commissioners for Rebuilding Churches 24
Compton, H. C. - - - - - 87
Conduit Court ------ 1 27
Conduit, Leonard - - - - - 127
Conduit, King's _ _ - _ - 104
Page
Connock, John — — — — — — 411.
Conolly, Charles and Barth. - - - 119
Conway, Viscount - - - - - 59 n.
Cooke, Sir Anthony - - - - - 26 n.
Cooke, Frances and William - - - 26 n.
Cooke, Sir Hercules Francis 26 n., plate 32^
Cooke, Humphrey ----- 20
Cooke, Nicholas - - - - - 106
Cooke, Thomas - - - - - - 126
Cookham (Crookham), John - - - 127
Cooper, Anthony Ashley, Earl of
Shaftesbury — — — — — — 116
Cooper, Sir Richard Ashmole - - - 81
Cope, Jas. -------126
Copland, Alexander - - - - - 122
Coppin, Sir George ----- 20
Corderoy, John ------ 47
Cork, Richard, Earl of - - - - 32
Cosgraue, John ------ 46
Cotterell, Sir Charles - - - 59,116
Cotterell, Thos. ----- 127
Coulthard, Israel, Jacob, James and
Mary — — — — — — — 123
Councell, Hugh - ----- 13
County Hall, Old, Spring Gardens 66-68, 70,
plates 50-52
Couran, Ignatius - - - - - 127
Couzin, Mr. ------ 117
Covent Garden - - - - - - 125
Coventry, Henry - - - - 96, 102
Coventry, Sir John ----- 90, 96
Coventry House - - - 95,96,97
Coventry Court ------ 96
Coventry Street- - - - - 96, 101 n.
Cowdray, Viscount ----- 87
Cox, James -_-___ 67
Cox, Thos. ------127
Cox, Mr. ------- n
Cox's Museum ------ 67, 68
Cozance, John ------ 56
Craggs, Mr. Secretary - - - - 60
Cranborne Street - - - - -5,117
Cranfield, Sir Lionel, afterwards Earl of
Middlesex — — — — — — 311.
Creed, (John) ------ 9
Cresy, Edward ------ 92
Crockford, William ----- 85
Crockford's Club ----- 87
Grockham, Jno. and Hannah - - - 127
Crofts, Katherine - - - - - 60
Crofts, William, Lord - - - -59,60
Cromwell, Lady Frances, afterwards Rich 23
Cromwell, Oliver - - - 23, 59 n., 126
Crookham (Cookham), John - - - 127
Crosby, Robert - - - - - - 108
Cross, Sir John ------ 52
Cross, Rebecca ------ 41
136
Page
Cross Lane- ------ 126
Crossley, Sir Savile Brinton - - - 86
Crowder, G. A. ----- 87
Crowder, Sir Richard Budden - - 87
Crown Inn ------126
Crown Stables ------ 7
Cunard, Lady ------ 83
Cunningham, Catherine - - - - 119
Curzon, George, Marquess of - - 80, 82
Cust, Henry John C. - - - - 84
Cust, John Hume, Viscount Alford - 79
D'Abemon Club ----- 81
Dade, Elizabeth, afterwards Haward - 13
Dade, Elizabeth (nie Serle) - - - 13
Dade, Roger ------ 13
Dalkeith, James, Earl of - - - - no
Dalston, George and Hannah - - 41
Darker, Mr. - - - - - - 29 n.
Darloo, Richard _____ 5
Davies, Tho. ___-__i24
Davis, Evan ______ 50
Davis, Jane ------ no
Davis, Mary ------ 90
Davis, Owen ------127
Davison, Rich. ------ 123
Davison, Samuel - - - - - 127
Davyes, Thomas _____ 55
Dawson, Thos. ------127
De Clifford, Edward, 20th Baron - - 62
De Clifford, Edward, 2 1st Baron - -62,83
De Clifford, Sophia, Baroness - - -62,83
Deering (formerly Gandy), John - 1 5 n., 92
Delamere, Lord and Lady - - - 86
Delaney, Patrick _____ 61
Deline, Peter - - - - - - 97 n.
Deloone, Isaac ------127
Denham, Sir John - - - - - 95
Denison, J. Evelyn and Lady Charlotte 84
Denmark, Envoy of - - - - - 108
Denny, Sir Anthony - - - - - 101
Depon (Depont), William - - 89,101
Depon's Close - - - - 89, 98, 101
Derby, Lord Stanley, 14th Earl of - 81
Desborow, Gen. _____ 59
Devonshire, Duke of - - - - 80
Dickes, Henry - - - - - - 119
Dickinson, Dr. Edmund - - - - 116
Digby, Sir John - - - - - 2,4
Dillon, Jas. - - - - - - 123
Dimond, Mary, Thomas and William - 42
Dirty Lane (afterwards Hemmings Row) 1 1 2
Dirty Lane or Street, Long Acre - - 126
Disher, Captain - - - - - - 125
Dobbinson, Ralph - - - - - 20
Dobree, Mr. ------ 1 1
Docmenique, Paul ----- 108
Page
Doddington, William - - - - 101
Dodington, George Bubb, afterwards
Baron Melcombe ----- 72
Donaldson, James ----- 45
Dorset Place ----- 92, 104
and see Whitcomb Street
Downing, Geo. - ----- 124
Downing, Mary and George - - - 36
Drayner, Joshua ----- 56
Drescel, Anthony John - - - - 83
Drummond, John — - - 64, plate 41
Drummond, R. H. Maldwin - - - 82
Drury Lane - - - - - - 125
Drury Lane Theatre - - - - 99
Dryden, John ------ 126
Dudley, Earl of- ----- 81
Duke of York's Column - - - 77
Dukinfield, Sir Hen. Robert - - - 128
Dulin, Thomas ------ 45
Duncannon Street ----- 56
Dunkelline, Lord - - - - -82, 83
Dunmore, Countess of and Lord - - 87
Dunne, John — — — — — — 1 16
Durham House - ----- 22
East Greenwich, Manor of - - - 125
Easton and Amos, Messrs. - - - 17
Edgecomb, Henry - - - - - 127
Edwards, John - - - - - -91,92
Edwards, William, 2nd Baron Kensing-
ton - - - - - - - -82,83
"Ei" Hill ------- 69
Eldred, John ------ 89
Ellice, Edward ------ 86
Ellis, Anthony ------ 23
Ellis, Griffin ----- -loyn.
Elmes, James ----- -92,93
Elmfield - - - - - - - 125
Elmstowe, Thomas de - - - - 128
Emon, James ------ 98
Emon, Philip ------ 98
England's Street - - - - - 112
English, Jas. ------ 127
Eresby, Peter, Lord Willoughby de - 86
Erleham, Thomas de - - - - 7
Essex, Robert, Earl of - - - - 10
Eton, College of the Blessed Mary at - 69
Euston, Earl of - ----- 87
Evans, Thomas ------ 38
Evelyn, John - - - - - 59,113
Everard, Dr. ------ 22
Everard, Robert - - - - - 128
Everingham, Samuel - - - - 105
Eves, James and Ann - - - - 124
Exeter, Thomas, Earl of - - - - 125
Faldo, John
37
Page
Farrant, Ann ------ 3
Farren, Jonathan ----- - 127
Fatt, Martha and William - - - 49
Faucit, Thomas ----- 127
Faulkener, Tho. - - - - - 124
Feathers, The ------ 109
Feather Alley ------126
Feather's Court - - - - - - 118
Fendall's Alley - ----- 120
Field, Benjamin ----- 39
Finett, Sir John - - - - - n6
Finnie, Robert ------ 54
Fisher, William - - - - - - 128
Fishers Alley - - - - - - 121
Fitzgerald, Lords Otho and Gerald - 84
Fitzherbert, Mrs. ----- 73
Fleetwood, Charles - - - - - 116
Flemings, - - - - I24
Flemish Hop Garden, The - - - 120
Flitcroft, (Henry) ----- 74
Foger (Foucher), William - - - 128
Foljambe, Cecil, Baron Hawkesbury and
Earl of Liverpool - - - - -82,83
Foljambe, George S. - - - -82,83
Foote, James ------ 93
Foote, Samuel - - - - - ~98>99
Forrester, Maj. Gen. George C. W. - 80
Forsett, Edw. ------411.
Fortescue, Chichester S. - - - -81,82
Foscue (Drury) Lane - - - - 125
Foucher (Foger), William - - - 128
Fox, George ------ 33
Francis, Clement ----- 33
Fraser, Colonel Thomas - - 37, plate 31*
Frederick, Prince of Wales - - - 72
Freeman, Sir Ralph - - - - - II0
Freeman, Thomas ----- 49
French Chapel, Spring Garden - - 67, 71
Fribourg, Peter ------ 98
Fries, Werner von ----- 84
Frontier Court ------ 14
Frost, Henry ------ 127
Fulbrooke, Francis - - - - - I23
Fuseli, Henry - - - - - - ll7
Galley, George ------ 36
Garland, Elizabeth ----- 13
Garland, Thomas - - - - -i3>89
Garrard, Stephen ----- 93
Garrick, David ------ 108
Gates, James and Elizabeth - - - 47
Geares, Captain ----- 102
Gelding's Close, lawsuit concerning - 1,2
George I ------ -25,28
George III, statue of - - 88, plate 79
George, Prince of Wales, afterwards
George IV ----- -73~75
137
Page
George, Prince of Wales, afterwards
George IV, statue of - - 17, plate "ja
George Yard ------ 104
German Embassy ----- 84
Gerrard, Lord ------ 2
Gibbons, Lt. Col. Sir Walter - - - 79
Gibbs, James - - - - 24,25,26,27
bust of - - - - 27, plate 27.2
portrait of - - - - Plate 1 3
Gibbs, John ______ 105
Gibson, John ------ 127
Giles, John - - - - - - 123
Giles, Sunibank ----- 127
Gittos, Jno. - - - - - - 1 19
Gladstone, Sir John - — - - - 81
Gladstone, Lieutenant John Neilson - 81
Gladstone, Thomas ----- 81
Gladstone, William Ewart - 81, 83, 85, 86
Gladstone, William H. - - - - 85
Glasshouse Street - - - - - no
Gledstanes, Paul and George - - - 49
Gloucester, Duke of- - - - - 7
Glyn, Hon. George, Lord Wolverton - 86
Glynne, Sir Stephen Richard - - - 86
Glynne, Lady (nee Neville) - — _ 86
Goat Tavern - - - - - -12 n.
Goderich, Lord, afterwards 1st Earl of
Ripon ------- 78
Goderich, Viscount, afterwards Earl de
Grey and 2nd Earl and Marquess of
Ripon ---____ 79
Godfrey, Sir Edmund Berry - - - 113
Godsman, John - - - - -92,97
Godwin, Edm. ------124
Golden Cross Hotel - - - 56, plate 36^
Golden Cross Inn - 12-15, 56, plate 4^
Golden Leg, The - - - - - 127
Golding, Dr. Benjamin - - - - 57
Golightly, Christian - - 10, 13, 89, 101
Golightly, John - - - 8, 10, 12, 89, 101
Golightly, Nicholas ----- 89
Goodwin's Court - 120, 121, plate io8_
Gordon, General Charles - - — 18
Gouge, Nicholas - - - - - 128
Gough, Christopher ----- 98
Grafton, Duke of - - - - - 87
Graham, George - - - - - 122
Grant, Alexander, Isabella, John and
Louisa ------- 4j
Grant, Sir Alexander Cray - - - 78, 79
Granville, Giles — - - - - 105
Gravely, Ann ------ yj
Great Room, Spring Gardens - 67, 68, 71
Great Suffolk Street - - - - 90, 98 n.
and see Suffolk Street
Green, Thomas - - - - - 128
Green Mews ----- -7,112
138
Page
Green Street ------ 5
Grene, John - — - — — — 5 n.
Grey, Henry, 3rd Earl - - - - 86
Grey, Ralph Wm. ----- 87
Grey, Earl de ----- - 79
Grimstone, Lady Jane - - - - 84
Groves, John and Anne - - - - 105
Guinness, Sir Arthur, 1st Baron Ardilaun 85, 86
Guinness, Benjamin - - - - - 85
Guinness, Loel ------ 85
Gurdon, Rt. Hon. Brampton - - - 87
Gwennap, Thomas ----- 94
Gyatt, Lewis ------ 127
Gye, Frederick ------ 12
Haliday, Alexander Christopher - - 38
Hall, Edward, chronicler - - - 8
Hall, George ------127
Hall, John - - - - - - - 70 n.
Haly, William - - - - - - 124
Hamilton, Anthony - - - - - 128
Hamilton, Sarah - - - - - 119
Hammond, Frances and James - - 54
Hampden, John ----- 23
Hampton's Store - - - - - 104
Hancock, Mary ----- 127
Hankey, Sir Joseph ----- 90
Hanning, Wm. ------ 84
Hanover Court ------126
Harcourt, Col. Francis Vernon - - 81
Harcourt, George Granville Vernon 81, 82,
83,84
Hardwicke, 3rd Earl of - 84
Hardy, Dorothy, afterwards Throck-
morton ------- 54
Hardy, John ______ 84
Hardy, Nathanael ----- 31
Hardy, Nich. -_-___i28
Harmsworth, Alfred C. W., Lord
Northcliffe --____ 79
Harris, Mr. "Renatus" - 23
Harris, Richard and Ann - - - 33
Harrison, George - - - - - 87
Harrison, T. R. - - - - - 120
Harrison and Sons - - - - 118,120
Hart, Moses ------ 34
Hart Street ------ 127
Hartley, Samuel and James - - - 105
Hartshorn Lane Water Works - - 106 n.
Harvey, Gideon - - - - - 117
Harvey, Susanna and James - - - 33
Hastings, Robert _____ 37
Havelock, Major-General Sir Henry - 17
Haward and Nixon ----- 14
Haward, Stephen - - - - - 13
Hawkes, Thomas - - - - - in
Hawkesbury, Cecil, Baron - - -82,83
Page
Hawkins or Hodgkins, Joseph- - - 105
Hawkins, Thomas - - - - - 110
Hawkins, Widow - - - - - 105
Hay, Henry John - - - - -83,84
Hayman, Francis - - - - - 117
Haymarket - 35,88,90,91,95-100,
102, 109, 122, plates 88-93
Haymarket Theatre - - - 93,98-100,
plates 85-88
Hayward, Christopher - - - 55, 128
Head, Jas. ------- 105
Heatly, Grant Heatly Tod - - - 86
Hedge Lane - - -2,3,9, 88, 90, 106,
and see Whitcomb Street
Heming, Dorothy - - - - - 113
Heming, John ----- 113
Hemmings Row 5, 55, 1 12-1 14, plate 100
Henkel, Count ------ 84
Henrietta Maria, Queen - - - - 90
Henry VIII - - - - 1,8,125
Henry, Charles S. ----- 81
Henry, Prince, son of James I - - 23
Henvill, Elizabeth, Edward and Jane - 39
Herbert, Philip - - - - - - 101
Herbert, Sidney, 1st Baron Herbert of
Lea-------- 81
Herbert, Capt. S. - - - - - 84
Herbert, Hon. Lady - 84
Heriot, Joseph - - - - - - 123
Herries, Charles _____ 81
Heslop, ______ 105
Hew, John - - - - - - 89 n.
Hewitt, William - - - - - 118
Heythusen, Gerard Van - - - - 97 n.
Hickford, Thomas ----- 102
Hickford's Great Room - - - - 102
Hidieman, _____ IOj
Higgs, Roger — — — — — — 60
Hill, Aaron ______ ^8
Hill, ______ I2?
Hills, Robert ------ 1 1
Hobson, Samuel _____ 47
Hodgkins or Hawkins, Joseph - - 105
Hodgkins, Richard - - - - - 105
Hodgson, F. ----- - 80
Hogarth, William - - - - 114,117
, drawings by - - 28, plate 25
, portrait of Gibbs - - - Plate 13
Hogg, Sir James Weir - - - - 80
Hogg, Quintin ------ 80
Hogg, Stapleton _____ 80
Holland, Henry - - - 73,75.76
Holland, Thomas Lindsay - — - 97
Hollowaye, Robert - - - - -58, 59
Holroyd, Elizabeth, Joseph and Louisa 39
Holroyd, John ------ 93
Holt, Tempest ------ 127
L
Page
Holt, William ------ i9
Hop Gardens, The ----- 120
Hope, Adrian ------ 80
Hopkins, William - - - - - 105
Hopper, (Thomas) ----- 75
Horlick, James ------ 82
Home, William _____ x^
Horse, Gentlemen of the - - - 9
Howard, Francis _____ 85
Howard, Henry, Earl of Northampton - 89
Howard, R. ----__ 87
Howard, Thomas, Earl of Suffolk - - 89
Hubbard, Ric. ------ 127
Hughes, Richard - - - - - 12
Hugnanin, Moses _____ 0,8
Huguenots- - - - - - 110,111
Humphrey, Wm. Gilson- - - 28,128
Hungerford, Sir Edward- - 22,60,116
Hungerford Market - - - - 55,114
Hunter, Andrew _____ 3 5
Hunt's Court - — — — -_ 56
Hurst, James and Samuel - - - 127
Hurst, John and Sarah - - - - 127
Huskisson, Mrs. Elizabeth Mary - - 80
Huskisson, William ----- 80
Huyck, Dr. Robert - - - - 3 n., 5 n.
Huyck, Thomas ----- 5 n.
Hyde, Laurence, Earl of Rochester 66, 67,
70,71
Ifield, Benjamin _____ i0<j n.
Inchcape, Lord ______ 79
Indian Soldiers' Fund - - - - 82
Ingeno, Augustine - - - - - 127
Irby, John ------- 87
Ireland, William - - - - - 128
Irwin, John ______ 38
Itchell (Ithell), Benjamin - - - no
Ivy Bridge ------- 1
Jackson, Jane - - - - 34, plate 29-
Jakes, John ------128
James I - - - -22,23,89,112
James Street - - - - 90,98,109
tennis court - - 109, 1 10, plate 97,
and see Orange Street
Jankyn, Richard _____ 128
Jellicoe, Lord — — — — — — 17
Jenefer, Roland - ----- 120
Jenefer's Alley — - — - - - 120
Jenkin, Thomas _____ 51
Jenkinson, Matt. ----- 124
Jenyns, William _____ 3
Jermyn Street ------ 14
Jingle, Mr. ______ \^
Johncock, Richard - - - - - 105
Johnson, George - - - - - 59 n.
J39
Page
Johnson, Henrietta - - - - - 119
Johnson, Dr. ------ 108
Johnson's Stable Yard - Plate 95^
Joliffe, Sir W. G. H. - - - - 83
Jolley, Rich. - - - - - - 123
Jolly, David ------ 33
Jones, Evan ------127
Jones, Frances ------ 32
Jones, ------ 123
Jonson, Ben _____ -55,56
Joyous, Peter ------124
Julian, Peter ------ 105
Katte, Frederick von - - - - 84
Kefer, Jos. - ______ 105
Kendall, Henry Edward - - - - 93
Kennington, Manor of - - - - 8
Kensington, William, 2nd Baron - -82,83
Kent, William - - - - - - 9, 74
Kerr, Matt. ______ 122
Kerseye, John de _____ 128
Key, William --_- — - 52
Kholer, Jno. --____ 105
Kiffin, Richard ------ 5
Kildare, Marquess of - - - - 84
Kilpin, Bartholomew - - - - 127
Kilsby, Jane - - - - - - 121
Kilsby, Richard - - - - - - 121
Kilvert, Robert ------ 95
Kinastone, Charles - - - - - 1 20 n.
King, Sir Edmund - - - - - 117
King, Henry Thos. ----- 93
King's Head, The (Charing Cross) - 10
King's Head, The (Haymarket) - - 98 n.
King's Head, The (St. Martin's Lane) 1 1 3 n.
King Street, Covent Garden - — - 123
King Street, Long Acre (now Neal
Street) -------126
King William IV Street - 56, 57, plate 37-
Kip's view of London and Westminster 19,
plate 53
Kitschmann, Major Horst - - - 84
Kitto, John Fenwick - - - - 128
Knatchbull, Edward, 9th Baron - - 81
Knight, Margaret, Stephen and Mary - 37
Knight, Thomas ----- 128
Knight {alias May alias Broadmax),
Thomas - - - - - - - 118
Knockle Alley ------126
Knowles, John — — — — — — 124
Kyme, Alice {ne'e Nightingale) - - 5 n.
Kyme, John ------ 5
Kynaston's (Chemist's) Alley - - - 120
Kyrban, Dionysius ----- 128
Lafitte, James - - - - - - 118
Laing, Mary and Charles - - 39
I40
Page
Lambel, Simon - - - - - - 128
Lambert, John ------ 61
Lamplugh, Thos. - - - - - 128
Lancaster Court _____ 24
Lancaster, Wm. - - - - - 128
Landseer, Sir Edwin - - - - 18
Langen, Baron de - - - - -83,84
Langhorne, Thomas - - - - - 128
Langley Court - - - - 127, plate 108^
Larke, John ------ 128
Larnach, James Walker - - - _ 79
Laroune, Catherine - - - - - 119
Lascelles, Major Edward C. - - - 80
Lassall, Stephen - - - - - 108
Lassell, John - - - - - - 121
Lasso (Laswals), Mauginet - - - 108
Laud, Archbishop ----- 22
Laurence, Thomas - - - - - 128
Lawes, George - - - - - - 105
Lawley, Sir Robert, 1st Baron Wenlock 84
Lawrence, John _____ 3
Lawrence, Lady D. - - - - - 86
Lawrence, Sir Edwin Durning - - 86
Leclerc, Peter ------108
Lee, Hugh- ______ 3
Lee, I. Lee ______ 84
Leg Alley -------127
Leicester, Robert, Earl of - 3,5, 106, 1 12
Leicester Fields - - - - - - 102
Leicester House _____ 3
Leicester Square - - - 3,5,112,114
Leigh, Sir John ------ 84
Leigh, William, Richard and Mary - 43
Leinster, Augustus, 3rd Duke of - - 84
Le Mesurier, John ----- 122
Lesquire, Scipio - - - - 116,126
Lesquire Street (afterwards Chandos
Street) -------126
Lewin, Robert - - - - - - 121
Lewis, John ______ 105
Leycester, Rev. Oswald and Elizabeth - 33
Lichnowsky, Prince - - - - -84,85
Linardy, Matthew ----- 105
Lincoln, Earl of _____ 87
Lindsay, Lt. Col. Loyd - - - - 80
Lindsey, Robert, Earl of - - - - 34
Little Theatre 98 and see Haymarket Theatre
Little Suffolk Street - - - - 90, 99 n.
Littleton, Sir Thomas - - - - 59
Liverpool, Cecil, Earl of - - - - 82, 83
Llandaff, Viscount ----- 81
Lloyd, Mary Ann, George Frederick,
John and Sarah ----- 44
Lloyd, Wm. ______ I28
Llynn, Samuel ______ 66
Lodgedon, Isaac - - - - - no
Loe, Anne and Thomas - - - - 3 n.
Page
"Lomsbery" ------ 8
Londesborough, Albert Denison, 1st
Baron ------- 84
London, George - - - - -66,70
London District Headquarters - - 85
London Museum ----- 29
Long Acre - - - 125-127, plate 1 10
Long's Court - - - - - 110,111
Lonsdale, 3rd Earl of, previously Viscount
Lowther - - - - - - 86, 87
Lonsdale, 4th Earl of - 86, 87
Loudham, John ----- 128
Lovelace, James - - - - - 104
Lovelace, Widow - - - - - 104
Lovett, Richard _____ 123
Lowe Inn, The {alias the Chequer) - 10
Lowenstein, Prince ----- 83
Lowther, Sir John ----- 56
Lowther, Viscount, 3rd Earl of Lonsdale 86, 87
Loyd, Samuel Jones, Baron Overstone - 80
Lukin, Henry ------ 124
Lumley, Geo ------ 94
Lumsden, Isabel _____ n
Luttrell, Edw. ------ 127
Lymes, Geo. ______ 105
Lyon, Captain David - - - 51
Lyon, Francis ------ 46
Macarthur, Major Edward - - 87
McCormick, Wm. Patrick Glyn - - 128
Macdonald, Messrs. - - - - - 17
Macdowall, Elizabeth and Andrew - 33,
plate 28 A
Macdugall, Mary _____ 105
Mackay, Mrs. ------ 84
Mackcallah, Ann _____ 45
Mackenzie, Henry ----- 128
Mackenzie, James T. - - - - 86
Macklin, Charles -__.__ 98
McNab, Mr. ------ 1 1
Maidman,John _____ gy
Mall, The- - _ - - 63,66,77
Malmesbury, 1st Earl of - - - - 61
Mansfield, John ----- 127
Mansfield, Martha ----- 41
Marble Arch, The ----- 17
Marchant, Hugh _____ 106
Marchant, William - - - - - 106
Marlborough, George, 8th Duke of - 83
Marlborough, Duchess of - - - 71
Marlborough, Duke of - - - - 84
Marnell, Edmund, Richard and Louisa 50
Marochetti, Baron ----- 18
Marrable, Frederick- - - - - 66
Marten, Jarvis ------124
Martin, Rear Admiral Sir H. B. - - 87
Martyn, John ______ 128
Page
Mason, Joseph and Edward - - - 127
Matthews, Henry - 81
Maud, Queen ------ 211.
May, Henry - - - - - _ 118
May {alias Broadmax alias Knight),
Thomas - - - - - - - 118
May's Buildings - - - - 118,119
Mayerne, Sir Theodore 52, 1 16, plate 32a
Maynard, Sir Henry - - - -5,112
Maynard, William, Lord - - - 5
Meadows, Edm. ----- 124
Melcombe, George, Baron - - 72
Mercer Street ------126
Mercer's Company - 2,3,101,125,126
Meryden, John and Anna - - - 89 n.
Mesenger, Rich. ----- 127
Metropolitan Board of Works - - 66, 68
Mews, The 1, 2, 7-14,95, 101, 102, 106,
plates 2, jb, 4-
Mews Close - - - - - - 112
Mews Gate ______ q
Mews, Great ______ 7
Mews, King's ______ 15
Mews, Lower ______ 15
Mewtys, Peter ------ u
Michel, Simon ------ 128
Michell, George and Edward - - 70
Middlebrook, Edward - - - - 127
Middlesex, Lionel, Earl of - - - 3 n.
Milbanke, Admiral Mark - 80
Military Garden - - - - - 2,3
Miller, Johanna, John and Esther 3 5 , plate 29^
Milton, Viscountess - - - - -82,83
Mings, George - - - - - - 105
Minterne, Bridget (nfo Nightingale) - 5 n.
Minterne, William ----- 5
Misaubin.Dr. - - - - - - 117
Misnier, Paul - - - - - - 121
Mist, John- ------ 95
Molteno, Mary and Anthony - - - 36
Money, John and Susanna - - - 37
Monmouth, Duke of - - - - 109
Monson, Frederick, 5th Baron 81,82,85
Montagu, Hon. Wm. Drogo Sturges - 86
Moore, George- _____ 90
Moore, Rev. Dr. Henry - - - - 53
Moore, John and Thomas - - - 90
Morden and Lea's Map, 1682 - Plate 1
Morgan, Widow - - - - - 118
Morgan, William - - - - - 118
Morice, Sir William - - - 59, 60
Morley's Hotel - - - 56, 57, plate 38^
Morris, David Edward - - - -93,99
Morris, Susannah and Joseph - - - 43
Morrison, Alfred _ _ _ _ - 87
Mortimer, Richard ----- 127
Mould, Joseph ------ 93
I4I
Page
Mount Edgcumbe, Earl of - 83
Mount Stephen, Lord - - 83
Mountford, Thos. ----- 128
Moxey, Solomon and Mary - - - 45
Moyston, Thomas ----- 127
Mozart ______ 67, 117
Muncaster, Lord _____ 81
Munster, Count - - - - -84,85
Murray, Archibald ----- 108
Murray, Edith ------ 42
Murray, Maria Augusta - - - 35
Murrieta, Mariano de - - - - 83
Mytens, Daniel - - - - - - 116
Mytton, Major General - - - - 116
Napier, General Sir Charles James - - 17
Nash, John 6, 1 5, 67, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 90,
91,92,96,99, 104
, plan of, for re-development of
Pall Mall - - - - - plate 78
National Gallery - 7, 9, 15-17, 76 n., 113,
plate 5
National Portrait Gallery - - - 116
Nay land, John ------ 124
Naylor, R. C. ----- - 83
Neal Street (formerly King Street) - - 126
Nelson Column - - 16-18, plates 6, jb
Nelson Memorial Committee - - - 18
Nelson Pillar, Dublin - - - - 15 n.
New Churchyard Lane - - - - 112
New Street, St. Martin's Lane - 123,124,
plate 109
New Street, Spring Gardens - - 61, 63, 64,
plates 40^, 41
Newburgh, Earl of - - - - - 9
Newdigate, Sir Roger - - - - 61
Newman, Mr. ----- -iogn.
Newport, Earl of - - - - -4,113
Newport House _____ 4
Newport Street - - - - - 3,5,116
Newton, Sir Isaac ----- 107
Nicholas, Sir Edward - - 22,59,61
Nicholas, William _____ 61
Nightingale, Richard - - - - 5 n.
Noorthouck, (John) ----- o,
Norfolk, 14th Duke of - 85
Norris, Christian - - - - -10,89
Norris (Norres), John - - - -10,89
Norris, Richard - - - - - - 127
Northampton, Henry, Earl of - - 89
Northampton (afterwards Northumber-
land) House ------ 89
Northcliffe, Viscount - - - - 79
Northumberland (Algernon Percy),
Earl of ------- 5
Northumberland (Algernon Seymour),
Earl of------- 11
142
Page
Northumberland Coffee House - - 11
Northumberland House - - - 11,24,89
Northumberland Street - - - - 61
Nost, Van - - - - - - - 117
Nunn, Jas. - ------119
Oakley, Wm. E. ----- 83
Oliphant, Martha, James and Susannah 38
Onslow, Sir Edw. ----- 4 n.
Orange Street 7,89,97, 104, 109-m, 112
Orange Street Chapel no, in, plate 98
Ordway, Wm. ------ 123
Orford, Edward Russell, Earl of 70, 90, 96
Orpin, Thomas and James - - - 41
Osbaldeston, Simon 59, 70 n., 101, 102, 109
Overstone, Lord _____ g0
Oxenden, Henry - - - - 101,112
Oxenden, Mary (nee Baker) - - - 101
Oxendon Street- - 22,101-103,109
Oxford, Countess of- - - - - 2
Pall Mall - - - 5,15,69,72,73,75
Pall Mall East - 6, 9, 88, 96, plates 79, 80
Palladio, Andrea _____ 92
Palmer, Edward _____ I05
Palmer, Mrs. Potter - - - - - 83
Palmer, Thomas - - - - - 105
Palmer, Wm. ------119
Palmerston, Viscount - - 80,83,84
Palsgrave, Thomas - - - - - 121
Panmure, Gordon ----- 83
Panton, Colonel Thomas 96, 102, 109, 1 16
Panton Street 34, 97, 101-103, 104, 109
Parker, J. W. ------ 120
Parkin, Wm. - - - - - - 121
Parkinson, John -----126
Parton, Thomas - - - - 118,119
Patterson, Erasmus - - - - - 105
Paulet, Sir Amyas ----- 24
Pauli, Mr. ------- 1 1
Pawlett, James ------ 95
Payan, Danl. ------119
Payne, Charles James and Elizabeth
Shutter ------- 33
Payne, Richard - - - - - - 118
Pearce, Harriet - - - - - - 127
Pearce, Thomas _____ 68
Pearce, Zachariah - - - - - 128
Pearson, John - - - - - - 105
Pearson, Thomas - - - - - 3 n.
Pembroke, 4th Earl of - 59
Pembroke, 1 2th and 14th Earls of- - 84
Penn, Sir William ----- 9
Pennethorne, James - - - - -16,77
Pennycock, Charles - - - - - 127
Pepys, Samuel - - 9, 12 n., 70, 90
Perismore, John - - - - - - 127
Page
Perkins, William _____ 105
Perponcher, Count ----- 84
Perry, I. G. ------ 87
Peterborough, Earl of — - - - 126
Phelps, John - - - - - - 118
Phillips, Thos. - - - - - - 121
Phoenix Inn ______ 95
Physicians, College of - - 88, plate Soi
Piccadilly ---_--- 96
Piccadilly House - 102 and see Shaver's
Hall
Pickwick, Mr. ------ 14
Pinto, Eugene ------ 79
Planck, Miss ------ 127
Planck, Peter ------ 127
Piatt, Sir Hugh - - - - - -non.
Plessen, Baron Leopold von - - - 84
Plunkett, John ------ 127
Porridge Island ------ 6
Portal, Rev. William Benjamin - - 50
Portal, William, Elizabeth and Mary - 50
Porter, Walsh ----- -73,75
Portington, William - - - - - 126
Portland Place ------ 15
Pott, Joseph Holden - - - - 128
Potter, John - — - — — -98,99
Poulter, Henry - - - - - - 70 n.
Powell, Evan ------127
Powlet, Lord Henry - - - - 35
Poyntz, W. S. ----- - 87
Prater, Charles ------ 12
Pratt, Ladies F. and C. - - - - 83
Pratt, Rev. Jermyn ----- 83
Presbury, Chas. — ----- 124
Preston, John ------ 45
Price, Edward ------ 92
Price, Edward and Amy - - - - 51
Price, James and William - - - 27
Price, Stafford - - - - - - 118
Pridham, George - — — — - 105
Prignan, John ------ 119
Prior, Thomas - — — - - — 127
Proger, Edward — - — — — 106
Prosser, William - — — - — 118
Prothero, David and Ellen - - - 34
Prussia, King of — — — — - 74
Prussian Legation ----- 83
Public Offices Site Act - - - 62
Pystor, Robert ------ 13
Quant, Douse ------ 123
Raikes, Timothy ----- 127
Railton, William - - - - - 18
Ralegh, Carew -- — - - - 116
Ralegh, Sir Walter - - - - - 116
Ralph, (James) ------ 9
U
Page
Ramus, Ann, Lousia and Louis - - 39
Randall, John — — - — -_ 127
Randall, William and William Bright - 35
Ranelagh, Arthur, Lord Viscount - — 32
Rapier, ______ jqj
Rayleigh, John William Strutt, 3rd Baron 80, 8 1
Rayner, Sarah Jane Townsend - - 52
Raynes, Rich. — — — — — — 123
Red Lion, The — - - - — -56,71
Red Lion Inn Yard ----- 66
Reed, Isaac — - - — — - 121
Reed, Widow - - - - - - 121
Reeves, Sarah and William - — — 36
Regent Street - - - - - 6, 77, 88
Rendel, James Meadows - — - - 79
Rendel, Stuart, Baron - - - - 79
Rennie, James - — — - - — 121
Repton, George Wm. and Lady J. - 84
Reve, Thomas — — - — — _ 12
Revelstoke, John, 2nd Baron - — - 83
Reynolds, John — — — — — — 127
Reynolds, Sir Joshua - - - 108,117
Rich, Lady Frances (ne'e Cromwell) — 23
Rich, Robert — — — — — — 23
Richard II ------- 7
Richards, Rev. George - - - 54, 128
Richards, Hannah Maria - - — 54
Richardson, James, Charles and Jane - 47
Ridley, Sir Matthew White - - - 85
Rigby, James ------ j 26
Rigg, George ------ 119
Ripon, 2nd Earl and Marquess of— - 79
Robertson, John _____ 98
Robinson, Frederick John, Viscount
Goderich and 1st Earl of Ripon - 78, 79
Robinson, Thomas ----- 98
Rochester, Laurence, Earl of 66, 67, 70, 71
Rooke, Lady - — — -__ 53
Rose, The (afterwards the Chequer) - 10
Rosslyn, Earl of ----- 81
Rotsey, Antony ------ 12
Roubiliac, Louis Francois — - - 117
Rounceval, St. Mary, Hospital of - - 10, 19
Round House, see Watch House, St.
Martin's
Rowe, William ------ 92
Rowland, T. W. — — — — - 92
Rowles, Jas. - — ----127
Roxburghe, Duke and Duchess of - - 82
Royal Academy - - - - - -15,16
Royal Empire Society — - — — 87
Royal Engineers Office - - — - 80
Royal Society of British Artists 92, plate 8 1
Rupert, Prince ------ 70
Russell, Edward, Earl of Orford 70, 90, 96
Russell, Hugh — — — — — — no
Russell, Lord John ----- 80
H3
Page
Russell, Mrs. ------ 83
Russia, Emperor of — — — - - 74
Rutt, John- - - - - - - 121
Rymer, Henry and Sarah - - - 49
Rysbrach - - - - - - - 27, 74
Said, Richard James ----- 46
St. Albans, Earl of - - - - 90, 95 n.
St. Anne, Soho, parish of - - - I, 22
St. Clement Danes, parish of, laystall - 125
St. George's Barracks — - - - 112
St. Giles-in-the-Fields - - - -2,115
St. Giles' Hospital ----- 2, 3
St. James, Bailiwick or Manor of - - 90
St. James, Westminster, parish of 1, 22, 69,103
St. James's Hospital — — — — 1,7,69
St. James's Palace - - — 1,69,70,95
St. James's Park I, 5, 58, 59 n., 60, 66, 67,
69,7o,7l»77
St. John, Lady Mary - - - - 126
St. Margaret, Westminster, parish of - 1,19
St. Martin-in-the-Fields —
church of - 1,9,15,19-54,103,115,
121, plates 3^, 8-33
church schools — — — — — 55
commons of ----- — 89
Girls' Charity School - - - - 113
laystall ------- 101
Middle School for Girls - - - 114
National Schools - - - 5 5, plate 34^
parish of — — 1,62,70,96,102,125
records ------- 19
vestry - - - - - - - 112
vestry hall - - - - 55, plate 34^
vicarage - - - - - - -15,55
vicars of- - — - - 19,102,128
St. Martin's Court - - - Plate 103
St. Martin's Field - - - 2,3,4,112
St. Martin's Lane 1, 3,4n., 5,7,9, 10, 15,
56, 106 n., 112, 115-122, 123, 125,
plate 102
No. 31 - - 117, 118, plates 104-106
Nos. 42-44 - - 118, 119, plate 107
Nos. 45-47 - - - - -119,120
Nos. 55 and 56 - - - - 120,121
Nos. 60-67 ----- 121,122
St. Martin's Place - 55, 112, 116, plate 34a
St. Martin's Street 106-108, 109, 1 10, plate 96
St. Martin's Street Library - - - 1 1 1
St. Mary, Wotton-Under-Edge, church
of -------- 28
St. Matthew's Chapel, Spring Gardens 27,
61, 64, 65, plates 39, 40a
St. Paul, Covent Garden, parish of -1,125
St. Ravy, Sir William - - - 70,116
Salis, Jerome, 4th Count de — - - 81
Salisbury, James, Earl of - - 113,121,122
144
Page
Salisbury, Robert, Earl of 4, 5, 56, 1 1 3, 1 16
Salisbury, William, Earl of - - - 5
Salisbury, Marquess of - - - - 5 n.
Salt, Geo. -------127
Samber, Savile (or Samuel) - - - 127
Sandwich, Countess of - — - - 87
Sandwich, Earl of- - - - -12 n.
Sanford, Charles Henry — - — - 84
Sangar, Gabriel — — — — — 128
Saunders, Admiral Sir Charles - - 61
Saunders, Erasmus — — — — — 128
Savage Club ------ 82
Savoy, French Church in the — — - 67
Scavengers Close (near the Haymarket)
101, 106
Scavengers Close (in tenure of Edw. and
Eliz. Carr) ------ 5
Schrider, Christopher - - - - 28
Scoles, Jas. - --- — --127
Searle, Thomas, Thomas Belcher,
Juliana and Ann ----- 42
Seely, Charles ------ 82
Selfridge, Harry Gordon — - - 83
Serle, Richard — — — — — — 13
Shaftesbury, Anthony Ashley, Earl of - 1 16
Shaver's Hall (Piccadilly House) 96, 102, 109
, tennis court - - 102,109,110
Shaver's Place ------ 96
Shaw, Elizabeth and George - — - 39
Shaw, Mrs. ______ 83
Sheffield, John, afterwards Duke of
Buckingham — — — — — — 116
Shelford, Leonard Edmund - - - 128
Shelton (Sheinton), John - - - - 127
Shepherd, T. H. - - - - 9,14,66
Sheppard, Hugh Richard Laurie - - 128
Sidmouth, Henry, Lord - - - - 61
Simpson, Joanna and Thos. — — — 41
Simpson, Wm., John and Elizabeth - 119
Sinnott, Pierce — — — — — — 50
Skeen, Elizabeth and John - - - 47
Skinner, Willian - - - - - 128
Skippon, Major-General— - - - 126
Skyn, Thos., de West Bargham — - 128
Slater, Peter - - - - - - 123
Slaughter, Thomas — — - — - 117
Slaughter, William — - — — — 35
Slaughter's Coffee House, Old and New 117,
plate 102
Slingsby, Sir R. ----- - 9
Slingsby, Sir William — — — — 125
Slipper, Charles — - — - - 36
Smirke, Sir Robert ----- 88
Smith, Father - - - - - -23,28
Smith, Gerrard ------ 67
Smith, John — - — - - - 118
Smith, Miss J. D. - - - - - 86
Page
Snowden, Lancelot - — - - - 105
Soane Museum - - - - - - 76 n.
Sombre, Hon. Mrs. Dyce - - - 80
Somerleyton, Lord — — — — — 86
Somers, Earl _- — _ — _ 84
Somerset, Edward, Duke of - - - 125
Sore, William - - - - - - 128
Sothern, Henry- ----- 93
South Africa House ----- 57
Southampton, Charles, 3rd Baron — - 80
Southwell, Sir Edward (d. 1730) - -60,62
Southwell, Sir Edward (d. 1755) - - 61
Southwell, Edward, 20th Baron De
Clifford ------- 62
Southwell, Edward, 21st Baron De
Clifford- ----- -62,83
Southwell, Sir Robert - — — — 60
Spedding, William — - - - - 105
Spence, Rt. ______ 119
Spencer, Harry ------ 90
Spice, Mary ______ 42
Spottiswoode, Andrew - - - - 87
Spottiswoode, William — — - - 87
Spring Garden, The - - 58-62, 70, 101
, bowling green - - 59,102
, French Chapel - - -67, 71
(behind the Mews) - - 59
Spring Garden Terrace — - 61, plate 40^
Spring Gardens - — - -58-68,71,
plates 40-52
, chapel - - - 27,61,64,65,
plates 39, 40a
,Great Room- - - 67,68,71
Sprotte, Nicholas - - - - - 128
Squibb, Francis- — — — — - 92
Stanhope, Hon. Philip — — — - 80
Stanhope, ,th Earl of - - - - 80
Stanhope, Lady— — — — — - 123
Stanley, Lord, afterwards 14th Earl of
Derby ------- 81
Stapleton, Sir Philip- - - - - 116
Star, The - - - - 56 and see Swan Inn
Stark, Alexander, Mary, Alfred Jno. and
Frances ------- 43
Staunton, Sarah, Thomas, George and
Sandys --- — — — — 49
Staynton, John ------ 128
Steele, Samuel! — — — — — — 127
Stephens, Henry Charles - - — - 80
Stern, Edward David — — — — 83
Steward, Anne [nie Huyck) - - - 5 n.
Steward, John and Richard - — - 33
Steward, Sir Simeon — — - 5 n., 55 n.
Stewart, Mrs. Gladys C. - - - - 80
Stewart, Sir Michael Shaw - - - 83
Stiff, Thos. -_____i24
Stirling, William, Earl of - - - 116
Page
Stockmar, M. de - - - - - 84
Stokes, John ------ I28
Stone, Mary, William and Ann - - 44
Stone, Nicholas - ----- 126
Stone, Robert, James, William, Mary
Ann, Nancy and Frances — - - 34
Stone's Chop House— - - — - 103
Stone Cutters Court ----- 73
Stonehouse, The - - - - - 12
Storke, Dorick ------ 95
Stothard, Thomas ----- 126
Stow, John _____ 3,4,5
Stow, John, historian - - - - 8
Strand - - - 1,15,56,57,102,125,
plates 37^, 38.
Strickland, Thos. ----- 128
Stronde, Thomas - - - - - 104
Strutt, John William, 3rd Baron Ray-
leigh - - - - - - -80,81
Stuart, Ann ______ 51
Stuart de Rothesay, Lord - - - 83
Stuart-Wortley, James Archibald - - 80
Stubbs, Martha- ----- 43
Sturgis, Russell ------ 87
Sturt, Sir Anthony ----- n
Sturt, Humphrey ----- 1 j
Suckling, Sir John - - - - - 116
Suffolk, Thomas, Earl of- - - - 89
Suffolk, Earl of - _____ 90
Suffolk Place - 89-94, 96, 97, plates 82^, 83
Suffolk Stables - — 89, 90, 96, 98, 109 n.
Suffolk Street - 6, 88, 89-94, 96, 98, 100,
104, plates 81-84, 88<j
Summerson, John — - — - - 99 n.
Sun Insurance Office — - - - 12 1
Sussex, Thomas, Earl of - — - — 70
Sutherland, Elizabeth, Daniel and Sarah 43
Sutton, Samuel — — — — — — 42
Swaine, Jas. - — __- — 124
Swan Close 2,4, 5, 56, 101 n., 112, 113, 116
Swan Inn - — - - — — 4, 5 n., 56
Swiss Legation ------ 84
Sydenham, Sir Edward — - - — 13
Sykes, Lady -- — -__ 86
Sylvester, Miss ------ 85
Symes, Capt. Francis - - - - 46
Tarn worthe, John - - - - - 1 01
Tapp, Anne and Francis- - - - 122
Tavistock, Marquess of - - - - 84
Tayler, Ann, William and Jane — - 36
Taylor, Charles and Elizabeth - - 49
Taylor, Lt.-Col. Edward - - - - 87
Taylor, George Ledwell - — - _ 92
Taylor, John (poet) ----- 10
Taylor, John — -- — --126
Taylor, John, Mary and Jane - - - 45
Page
Taylor, Joseph ------ 33
Taylor, Joseph, of St. Martin's Lane - 47
Taylor, Sir Robert — — — — — 65
Temple, Henry James, 3rd Viscount
Palmerston ----- 80,83,84
Temple, Sir John - - - - - 126
Tenison, Thomas (afterwards Arch-
bishop) — - — - 128
, library and school founded by 55,113,
plate 99a
Tennis Court in James Street - - 109, 1 10,
plate 97
Ternouth, J. ------ 18
Thanet, Earl of- ----- 90
Thile, Baron ------ 83
Thompson, George - - - - - 123
Thomson, Richard - - - — 119
Thornhill, Sir James — - — — 117
Thornycroft, Hamo ----- 1 8
Thorpe, John ------ 20
Throckmorton, John, George, Jane and
Dorothy ------- 54
Timberlake, James and Elizabeth - - 118
Tindall, John and Jane - - - - 38
Todd, Daniel Spilman and George - 44
Todd, Henry ------ 127
Todd, Jane, Charlotte and Edward - 44
Tolstoy, Count Leo ----- 80
Tolstoy, Countess of — — — — 80
Tomline, Rt. Rev. Sir George, George,
and Wm. Edward - - - - 82
Tomlinson, Jas. — - — - — - 119
Tomlinson, Joseph and Ann - - - 40
Tompson, Utrecia, John and Frances - 53
Toplady, Rev. Augustus Montague - III
Topp, Lewis — — — — — — 119
Townshend, James - - - - - 105
Townshend, Widow- - - - - 105
Townsend, Rev. John - - - - ill
Trafalgar Square 6,7, 10, 11, 15-18,25, 56,
plates 6, 7
Trayleman, John ----- 3 n.
Treble, Jos. ------- ng
Tredegar, Viscount ----- 80
Treyer, G. A. ----- - 98
Tucker, John and Mary - - - - 123
Turner, Thomas -----127
Union Club - - - - - -85,88
University Club - — - - -91,92
Upper Spring Garden - - - - 70,
and see Wilderness, The
Vale Royal, Abbey of - - - - 2-4
Valens, Richard - - - - - 128
Vanderdoort, Abraham — - - - 116
Vandiest, Adrian - - - - - 126
146
Page
Varnham, Thomas Morgan - - - 44
Vaughan, James - - - - - 105
Vaughan, Mary ----- 3 n.
Vauxhall Gardens - - - - -58 n.
Veale, George and Ann - - - - 44
Vere, John- - - - - - - 123
Vernon, George, 5th Baron - - - 81
Vernon, John ------ 122
Verrio, Antonio _____ -j0
Vertue (George), views and plans of St.
Martin's Church - - - 19,20,21,55
Vesci, Viscount de — — — — — 83
Vialls, Edward or Edmund and Amos - 1 26
Vialls, Widow -- - ---126
Victoria Memorial ----- 77
Victoria and Albert Museum - — - 77
Vignola, Signor - - - - - - 90 n.
Vilett, John ______ 36
Villiers Street --__ — _ 57
Villiers, Thomas Hyde - - - - 93
Viney, Walter ------ 45
Vulliamy, Benjamin Lewis - - - 75
Vyse, Capt. R. H. R. H. - - - - 87
Waddington, Frances - - - - 84
Wakeman, Sir George — — - - 117
Waldegrave, Frances, Countess 81, 82, 83, 84
Walker, Henry ------ 92
Walker, William - - - - -59 n.
Wall, Elizabeth {ne'e Staunton) - - 49
Wallis, Wm. ------124
Walmsley, Benjamin and Mary - — 51
Wantage, Lord and Lady - — - 80
Warberton, William- - - — - 51
Ward, Henry ------ 47
Ward, John H. - _____ 81
Wardour Street - ----- 104
Warner, Isaac and Sophia - — — 46
Warner, ______ 30.
Warwick, Henry, 3rd Earl of - - 81
Warwick, Richard, Earl of — — - 7
Warwick, Sir Philip — — - - - 116
Warwick, 4th Earl of - - — - no
Warwick House ----- j0
Warwick House Street — — - — 70
Watch House, St. Martin's - - 9-10, 104
Waterhouse, Alfred — — — — — 18
Waterloo Place ------ 6
Watkins, Samuel — — — — — 42
Watson, Edmund - - - - - 128
Watson, John ------ 105
Watson, M. L. - ----- 18
Watson, Samuel _____ 127
Watts, Julia, Francis, Richard, Charlotte
and Louisa ------ 34
Weardale, Lord and Lady - - - 80
Page
Webb, Sir Aston _____ 63
Webb, John ------ 123
Webb, Widow - - - - - - 123
Webbe, Ralph ------ 128
Wellington, Duke of - - - - 74
Wellington Barracks ----- 77
Wells, John ______ 3
Wells, Thos. ------ 128
Wells, William - ----- 128
Welsford, James Hugh - - - - 81
Wenlock, Robert, 1st Baron - - - 84
West, George, Samuel and Mary - - 43
West, Tho. ______ 1 24.
West, Wm. ------ 127
West London Infirmary - - - - 57
Westmacott, Sir Richard - - - - 77
Westminster Abbey 1-3, 10, 19, 24, 69, 125
Westminster Bridge, Commissioners for 61
Westminster City Hall - - - - 116
Westminster Hall - - - - - 125
Westminster Palace - - - - -1,7,8
Whalley, Peter - - - - - - 128
Whatman, James _____ 81
Wheeler, George, Samuel and Sarah - 45
Wheeler, William _____ 23
Wheler, George _____ 10
Whitaker, John - ----- 127
Whitcomb Street 2, 6, 89, 90, 104, 105, 109,
plates 94-96
White, Christopher - - - - - 127
White, Margaret and Joseph - 36, plate 30
White, Mary --____ 105
White Hart, The - - - - Plate 95a
Whitehall ------- 15
Whitehall Gardens ----- 79
Whitehall Palace 1, 58, 59 n., 60, 67, 95, 1 16
Whitehead, John _____ 98
Whitmore, George ----- 10
Whitmore, William ----- 10, 89
Whitworth, Mary and Joseph - - 40
Wigley, Charles _____ 68
Wigley's Rooms - - - 68, plate 49^
Wildenburg, Count Hatzfeldt - - 84, 85
Wilderness, The - - - - 66,70,71
Wilkins, William - - 15, 16, 76 n., 92
Wilkinson, William ----- 2
Willey, John ______ 105
William Capellanus - - - - - 128
Page
Williams, David _____ yj
Williams, Elizabeth, Edward and Robert 54
Williams, Hannah - - - - _ 123
Williams, - - - - 119
Wills, Jeremiah - - - - - - 127
Willson, John and Ann - - - - 54
Willson, John and Elizabeth - - 37
Wilson, George _____ ^
Wilson, John ______ 105
Wilson, Richard - - - - - 101
Wilson, Thomas, yeoman farrier - 8
Wilson, Thomas - - - - - 101
Wincopp, John - - - - - - 128
Windeatt, John - - - - - - 127
Windsor Castle Library - - - 75,76 m
Wingfield, Catherine and Thomas- - 31
Wise, Mr. --_--__ 23
Wolff-Metternich, Count Paul _ - 84, 85
Wolverton, George, Lord - - - 86
Wood, Joan ______ r2
Wood, Robert --_--_ 3
Wood, Sir Robert - - - _ _ 3,4
Wood, Roger ------3,4
Wood, Rose (nte Carr) - - - - 4
Wood, Thomas, keeper of the Mews 8, 12, 101
Wood, Thomas, of Long Acre - - 127
Wooden, Tho. — -----127
Woodington, W. F. - - 18
Woods and Forests, H.M. Commis-
sioners of - - 15,18,62,65,74,113
Woolwich Arsenal Foundry - - - 18
Workhouse, St. Martin's - - - _ 113
Worswick, Albert C. - 80
Wortley, J. A. S. - - - - - 80
Wren, Sir Christopher - 9, 23 n., 102, 113
Wyatt, Benjamin _____ 77
Wyatt, James _____ -73,93
Wyatt, Lewis ______ 93
Wyatt, Matthew Coates - 88
Wyld, James ______ 12
Wymbleton, John _____ 128
Yates, Richard - - - - - - 127
Yates, Widow ----- _ 1 27
Yerbury, Mary and Richard - - - 36
York, Duke of------ 9
York Place- ______ 1,8
Yrpe, John ______ ro
'47
PRINTED FOR THE LONDON COUNTY COUNCIL
AT THE PITMAN PRESS, BATH. MDCCCCXL
Published by the London County Council,
The County Hall, S.E. i . Publication No. 3456.
Price £1 is.
700 copies printed of which this is No.
Plates, Nos. i to i i o
PLATE i
EXTRACT FROM MORDEN AND LEA'S MAP, 1682
PLATE 2
SURVEY ftV THOMAS CHA
l>; OullfORD St»ltl
IWNE 15. ITM.
PLAN OF THE ROYAL MEWS AT CHARING CROSS, 1796
(?■ 7)
PLATE 3
■
■
(</) OLD BARRACKS, CHARING CROSS, circa 1815
(b) THE NEW OPENING TO ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, circa 1830
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WILLIAM RAILTON'S DESIGN FOR THE NELSON
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PLATE 7
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GIBBS' DESIGN FOR ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH
PLATE 13
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PORTRAIT OF JAMES GIBBS BY WILLIAM HOGARTH
PLATE r4
ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH FROM CHURCHYARD, SHOWIXC'
SOUTHERN END OF ST. MARTIN'S LANE, ana 1820
PLATE 15
ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, LOOKING SOUTH-EAST
PLATE 1 6
THE CHURCH OF SAINT MA.R.T1N IN THE FIELES:: PLANS, ELEVATION S- SECTION of STEEPLE.
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EAST ELEWnON
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PLATE 1 8
ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH (a) LOOKING NORTH-WEST;
(b) PORTICO
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PLATE 24
THE PULPIT ST MAHTINS-M-THE-PIHLDS
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SERIES "INDUSTRY AND IDLENESS" (/>. 28)
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ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH PLATE, ON EXHIBITION AT
THE LONDON MUSEUM (p. 29)
PLATE 34
(a) ST. MARTIN'S PLACE, EAST SIDE (p. 55)
(b) ST. MARTIN'S CHURCHYARD, NORTH SIDE, SHOWING
VESTRY HALL AND SCHOOL {p. 55)
PLATE 35
OLD PREMISES SOUTH OF ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, 1830
PLATE 36
0) CORNER OF ADELAIDE STREET AND CHANDOS
STREET IN 1906 (p. 56)
(b) GOLDEN CROSS HOTEL, STRAND, IN 1930 (/>. 56)
PLATE 37
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ST. MATTHEW'S CHAPEL, SPRING GARDENS (p. 64)
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(J>) INTERIOR IN 1886
PLATE 40
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(b) SPRING GARDEN TERRACE IN 1881
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{b) INTERIOR OF No. 16 IN 1903
PLATE 44
SPRING GARDENS IN 1903
(a) No. 28, FIRST FLOOR LANDING
(/;) No. 30, FRONT ROOM ON FIRST FLOOR
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ROOMS
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(£) WIGLEY'S ROOMS, SPRING GARDENS PASSAGE (p. 68)
PLATE 50
OLD COUNTY HALL, SPRING GARDENS (j>. 68)
{a) EXTERIOR IN 1939
(V) COUNCIL CHAMBER IN 1890
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^33 "C? HP -^ -P"
(,/) OFFICES OF THE METROPOLITAN BOARD OF WORKS
PRINCIPAL FLOOR
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(£) OFFICES OF THE LONDON COUNTY COUNCIL, SPRING GARDENS
PLATE 53
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CARLTON HOUSE PLANS
(a) 1784; (/;) 1794
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(«) 1 "60; (b) 1790
PLATE 57
CARLTON HOUSE, GARDEN FRONT
(a) 1788; (/;) 1-94 (/>■ 76)
PLATE 58
CARLTON HOUSE. THE GRAND STAIRCASE (/>. -5 n.)
PLATE 59
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CARLTON HOUSE
0) ENTRANCE HALL
{b) CRIMSON DRAWING ROOM
PLATE 64
CARLTON HOUSE. THE CONSERVATORY (/>. 75)
PLATE 65
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(/,) No. 9, ORIGINAL BALUSTRADING TO LANDING ON
FIRST FLOOR
PLATE -4
No. 1, CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE (/>. 82)
(a) DINING ROOM ON FIRST FLOOR
(l>) LOUNGE ON FIRST FLOOR
PLATE 75
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No. 7, CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE (p. 84)
(a) ORIGINAL MANTELPIECE ON SECOND FLOOR
(b) STAIRCASE AND HALL
PLATE 78
NASH'S PLAN FOR THE RE-DEVELOPMENT OF PALL MALL
EAST, THE HAYMARKET AND SUFFOLK STREET (p. 90)
PLATE 79
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EAST (j>. 88)
PLATE 80
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(a) PALL MALL EAST
\b) COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS IN 1828 (p. 88)
PLATE 8 1
SUFFOLK STREET. ROYAL SOCIETY OF
BRITISH ARTISTS (/>. 92)
PLATE 82
SUFFOLK STREET
(a) EAST SIDE IN 1829 (/>. 92)
(b) NORTH SIDE OF SUFFOLK PLACE (p. 91)
PLATE 83
(a) SOUTH-WEST CORNER OF SUFFOLK STREET IN 191 1
(A 90
(/>) NORTH-WEST CORNER OF SUFFOLK PLACE IN 191 1
0- 90
PLATE 84
SUFFOLK STREET, NORTHERN END (/>. 93)
PI-ATE 85
THE OLD HAYMARKET THEATRE (pp. 98, 99)
(a) EXTERIOR IN 1803
(b) INTERIOR IN 1807
PLATE 86
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THE NEW HAYMARKET THEATRE {pp. 99, 100)
(a) IN 1826; (//) IN 1939
PLATE 87
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INTERIOR OF THE HAYMARKET THEATRE IN 1821
PLATE 88
0) SUFFOLK STREET FRONT OF THE HAYMARKET
THEATRE, 1939
{b) No. 25, HAYMARKET IN 191 1 (j>. 97)
PLATE 89
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CISTERN
PLATE 92
No. 34, HAYMARKET. MANTELPIECE IN FRONT
ROOM ON FIRST FLOOR (/>. 98)
PLATE 93
No. 34, HAYMARKET, INTERIOR OF SHOP (j>. 98)
0) LOOKING TOWARDS STREET
(b) SHOWING SCREEN
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PLATE 94
0) COCKSPUR STREET SHOWING ENTRANCE TO WHITCOMB
STREET circa 1823
{b) Nos. 28-46, WHITCOMB STREET IN 1886
PLATE 95
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JAMES STREET (NOW ORANGE STREET)
(a) TENNIS COURT (p. no)
(b) PREMISES ADJOINING TENNIS COURT
PLATE 98
ORANGE STREET CHAPEL (/>. no)
0) EXTERIOR IN 1906
(b) INTERIOR IN 191 3
PLATE 99
(a) ARCHBISHOP TENISON'S LIBRARY AND SCHOOL IN
CASTLE STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE, IN 1850 (p. 113)
(b) SOUTH SIDE OF CECIL COURT IN 1883
PLATE ioo
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HEMMINGS ROW (pp. 112-4)
(a) CORNER OF CASTLE STREET circa 1850
(b) LOOKING TOWARDS CHANDOS STREET IN 1873
PLATE 101
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OLD SLAUGHTERS COFFEE HOUSE, ST. MARTIN'S
LANE {p. 117)
PLATE 103
ST. MARTIN'S COURT IN 1881
(a) LOOKING EAST; {b) LOOKING WEST
PLATE 104
N?31 ST MARTIN S LANE
INTERIOR OF FRONT ROOM ON FIRST
FLOOR
WEST SIDE OF ROOM
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Nos. 16-20, LONG ACRE (pp. 126, 127)
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Survey of London
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