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ROBA

THE SURVEY

WESTERN PALESTINE,

JERUSALEM.

COL. SIR CHARLES WARREN, K.C.M.G., R.E.,

AND

CAPT. CLAUDE REIGNteR CONDER, R.E.

PUBLISHED FOR

THE COMMITTEE OF THE PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUND,

ADELPHI, LONDON,
1884. j^

I, ADAM STREET, ADELPHI, LONDON, W.C.

PREFACE.

This volume contains a complete account of our researches in Jerusalem,
in the years 1867- 1870, with other discoveries by Colonel Sir Charles
Wilson, R.E., in 1865, and by Captain Conder, M. Clermont Ganneau,
Dr. Chaplin, Hon. Conrad Schick, Herr Guthe, and others, since
my departure from Jerusalem. The volume is accompanied by a
portfolio of drawings, plans, etc., to which reference is made in
the text.

CHARLES WARREN.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

—^-o^-

CuKic Inscription round Arcade of Dojie of ■

Block Plan of Herod's Te.mple

Plan of the Noble Sanctuary

Shaft through Concrete at Birket Israil

Conduit of the Birket Israil

Gallery on East Wall of Sanctuary.

Characters on the Stones of the South-East

Gallery at South-East Corner of Sanctuary

Earthenware Jar found at South-East Angle

Jar-handles found at South-East Angle

Shaft at South-East Angle

Robinson's Arch

VoussoiR of Fallen Arch

Base of Column

Lamp

Wilson's Arch

Capital in Ancient Hall

Postern of Ancient City Wall

Chamber above the Aqueduct

Plan of Gate and Passage in the East Wall

tion and Sections
Bases and Capitals at the Dome of the Rock
View of the Dome of the Rock
Interior of the Dome of the Rock .
Masons' Marks on the Platform Pavement

he Rock

Angle

OF THE HaRAM, with ElEVA

page

To face page 99

,. >i7
124

125

143
151.152

153
154
156
157
177
181
182
182
196
201
205
214

238
246,247

248

249

250

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Crosier-like Mark on Voussoik

Masons' Marks collecied in ihk Mlkistan

Aqueduct to the Twin Pools

Plan of Kulat JalCd ('Goliath's Castle')

I'l^N OE TVROPCEON VaLLEV ....

.Sections ok Dino .....
Plan and Sections of Ancient To.mbs North-East ok JerlsalEiM
l'i„\N OK Rock-Cut Cha.mbers near Ecce Homo Church .
Section showing Surk.\ce ok Via Dolorosa and Surface uk

Rock ....
Capital in the Kuhbet es Sakhra
Arches at the Kubbet es Sakhra
Elevation and Section of Arches
Pl.\ns and Sections ok Holy Sepulchre
The Stone of Bethphage
Plan of Bethphage Chapel .
Environs of Jerusalem, 1882.
The Siloam Inscription
Alphabet ok the Siloam Inscription .
Plan of Siloam Aqueduct

Section of Diito, showing Probable Rock Surface
Central Portion, Siloa.m Aqueduct, Enlarged
Rock-Cut Passage above Virgin's Fount
PuvN and Section ok Tomb of Simon the Just
Plan of Monastery ok the Cross
View of el HeidhemIyeh
Plan ok Rock, West of Last
Jerusalem in 1187 a.d.
Supposed Tomb of Eudoxia .
Mason's Mark, kro.m the .\snerii;
Plan of newly discovered Church outside th
MEDLtvAL Fresco in Same
Enlarged Figure krom the Fresco
Plan of Asnerie District
Inscripiion at newly discovered Church
Rock Scarp ok Modern Zion

E Da.mascus Gam.

page

255

256

To face page 264

265

To face page 286

„ 286

,298,299

304

Natural

305

314
32'-329

338
To face page 344

ji n 34^

348

354
35*5
359
369

37S
379
3S1
382
383
3S5
386

387
389
390
391
392
To face page 394

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Vll

ARiMENiAN Inscriptions

Masons' Marks, Virgin's Tomt.

Hebrew and Greek. Inscription

Head of Hadrian, found near the Tombs of the Kings

Hebrew Inscription, Beni Hazir Tomt.

Supposed Phcenician Letter .

Greek Inscriptions in Wady Rababeh

Square Hebrew Inscription .

Greek Inscriptions .

Latin Inscription .

Jeremiah's Grotto from the South-East

Plan of Ancient Tomb (possible Sepulchre of Christ]

Tomb, West of Jeremiah's Grotto

Temple of Hibbariyeh

Temple of Thelthatha

Pottery found in the Excavations

To face
To face

page

401

402

403
406

414

416

417,418

422
424-426

428
page 430

433
pc:<( 437

492

495
534-541

JERUSALEM.

CHRONOLOGICAL SYNOPSIS OF THE HISTORY OF

JERUSALEM.

Jerusalem taken by David (ist siege)

First Temple founded by Solomon

Shishak takes Jerusalem (2nd siege)

Jehoash destroys the walls (3rd siege) - ■ -

Uzziah builds towers ------

Jotham builds Ophel wall

Pekah and Rezin besiege Ahaz (4th siege)
Sennacherib besieges Hezekiah (sth siege)
Asshur bani Pal takes Jerusalem (6th siege) -
Nebuchadnezzar takes Jerusalem (7th siege)
Second Temple founded by Zerubbabel -

Nehemiah rebuilds the walls

Bagozes profanes the Temple - - - .

Ptolemy, son of Lagus, takes Jerusalem (Sth siege)
Antiochus the Great takes Jerusalem (9th siege)
Antiochus Epiphanes visits Jerusalem -
Antiochus Epiphanes takes the city without siege -
Profanation of the Temple -----
Restoration of the Temple by Judas Maccabjeus -
Antiochus Eupator takes Jerusalem (loth siege)
Jonathan builds a new wall - - -
Simon takes the Akra citadel - - . .

Antiochus Sidetes besieges Jerusalem (nth siege) -
Aretas, the Arab, besieges Jerusalem (12th siege) -
Pompey takes Jerusalem (13th siege)
Antipater rebuilds the walls - - -

B.C

circa

1044

))

1007

T»

SS6

837

770

740

730

))

702

650

577

•

537

457

405

305

219

176

170

168

165

163

143

139

134

THE SURl-LV OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

n.c.

Crassus visits Jerusalem 4S

Kerod and Sosius take Jerusalem (14th siege) - - - 37

Herod's Temple commenced >9

„ „ completed ' i

Golden Eagle in Temple cut down 4

A.D.

Riots as to the Aqueduct of Pilate 35

Agrippa builds the third wall - - 4'

Agrippa builds a new palace 5'^

Cestius Callus attacks Jerusalem 66

Tnus TAKES Jerusalem (15th siege) ----- 70

Hadrian visits Jerusalem - 130

Bar Cochcba revolts ?32

„ „ is expelled '35

Rufus ploughs the Temple site ( 1 6th siege) - - - - 13S

Hadrian founds ^-Elia Capitolina 136

Helena visits Jerusalem 3^6

Coxstaxtine's Anastasis Church 335

The Jews revolt and are excluded from the city - - - 339
Julian attempts to rebuild the Temple ----- 362

Sla Paula visits Jerusalem 3^3

Eudoxia rebuilds the walls and dies - - - - 450 — 461
The Council of Chalcedon establishes Patriarchate - - 45 "

Justinian's Church of St. Mary finished 532

Chosroes n. takes Jerusalem (17th siege) . . - - 614
Heraclius enters Jerusalem with the Cross . - - - 629
Onlvr takes Jerusalem (i8th siege) ----- 637
Abd el Melck builds Kubbct es Sakhrah . - . - 688
St. \Villibald visits Jerusalem - - - - - - 7^4

Charlemagne builds a hospice area 800

Patriarch Thomas enlarges the Holy Sepulchre dome - ., 830
The Khalif el Mamun restores Dome of the Rock - - 831

Khalif Moez takes possession of the city - - - - 969
Hakem destroys Holy Sepulchre Church . . - - loio

Nicephorus completes its restoration 1016

Pilgrimages become numerous 1033

Robert of Normandy's pilgrimage ------ 1035

Turkomans expel Egyptians from the city - - - - 1094

The Egyptians retake Jerusalem 1098

Crusaders take Jerusalem (19th siege) - - - - 1099
Cathedral of Holy Sepulchre commenced - - - - 1103

The Hospital of St. John rebuilt 1130

Templum Domini alterations complete 1136

AValls of Jerusalem repaired 11 78

Saladin takes Jerusalem (20th siege) .... 1187

JERUSALEM.

A.D.

Saladin repairs the walls of the city 1192

Melek el Muazzam dismantles the walls 1219

Frederic II. rebuilds the walls --...- 1229

Daud, Emir of Kerak, destroys the walls - - . - 1239

Christians obtain Jerusalem by treaty 1243

Kharezmians destroy tombs of Latin Kings - - - - 1244

Kharezmians defeated by Egyptians ----- 1247
Selim I. TAKES Syria - -.- - - - - -1517

Soliman the Magnificent builds walls 1542

Holy Sepulchre Church burnt ------ 1808

Muhammed Aly takes Jerusalem (no siege) - - - - 1832

The Fellahin seize Jerusalem - ------ 1834

Syria and Jerusalem restored to Turkey ----- 1840

Protestant Bishopric established - - - - - - 1842

Disputes as to the Sepulchre ------ 1850

Ordnance Survey executed ------- 1864

^Varren's excavations - 1867 — 1S70

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

THE SIEGE OF JERUSALEM liV TITUS, 70 a.d.

Epitome of Josephus's Account.

nth Abib. Titus levels the ground north of the city (5 Wars ii. 5, iii. 2, xiii. 7).
14th Ahib. Passover. John seizes the Temple.

23rd Abib. First day of siege (5 Wars vii. 2).

24th .'\bib. Banks against outer walls of city complete.

7tli Zif. Wall of Agripjxi taken (5 Wars vii. 2).

iSth day of siege according to Josephus.

I 2th Zif. Second wall taken (5 Wars viii. i).

15th Zif. Second wall taken again (5 Wars ix. 2).

20th Zif. Banks against Antonia and upper city (5 Wars ix. 2).

29th Zif. Banks completed (5 \Vars xi. 4).

ist Sivan. Antonia bank mined (5 AVars xi. 4).

3rd Sivan. Bank against upper city destroyed (5 Wars xi. 5).

5th Sivan. Wall of circumvallation commenced.

29th Sivan. New banks completed (5 ^^'ars xii. 4, 6 Wars i. i).

I St Tamniuz. AVall of Antonia falls (6 Wars i. 3).

3rd Tanimuz. Death of Sahinus (6 Wars i. 6).

4th Tamnuiz. Antonia surprised by night (6 Wars i. 7).

17th Tammuz, Daily sacrifice ceases (6 Wars ii. i ; Taanith iv. 4).

20th Tammuz. Four new banks in Temple.

22nd 'I'ammuz. Cloisters fired (6 Wars ii. 9).

24th Tammuz. Other cloisters burned.

27th Tammuz. West cloister burned (6 \\'ars iii. i).

28th Tammuz. North cloister burned.

8th Ab. Temple wall battered (6 Wars iv. i).

9th Ab. Temple gate fired (6 Wars iv. 5) ; Fast (Taanith iv. 7).

loth Ab. Temple fired (6 Wars vi. 3).

20th Ab. Banks against up])er city (6 Wars viii. i).

7th Elul. Banks completed (6 Wars viii. 4).

8th Elul. Conquest of upper city (134th day of siege).

N.B. — The abstract given by Canon Williams contains the curious error of supposing

the Jewish year to be solar, and is therefore incorrect.

ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY OF JERUSALEM.

The present paper is confined to the consideration of the dates of existing
buildings in the city of Jerusalem so far as they can be determined.

The oldest existing remains appear to be those of the ramparts of the
upper city. It was round this hill (now known to the inhabitants as
Sion) that the wall of David and Solomon ran, according to Josephus
(5 Wars iv. 2). It appears therefore possible that the great scarps in
the present British cemetery (described under the head Hiimmam Tubariya)
may be as old as the time of David (the eleventh century B.C.), or even
earlier.

The ancient tomb now known as that of Nicodemus, west of the
rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre Church, has been proposed by Captain
Conder as representing the burial-place of Solomon, David, and the more
famous of the succeeding Kings of Judah, which was to be found in the
' City of David.' Captain Conder agrees with Sir Charles Warren in apply-
ing this term to the Lower City, and if the suggestion be accepted, this
tomb is one of the oldest monuments in Jerusalem. We learn from the
Talmud (Tosiphta Baba Bathra, c. i.) that the Tombs of the Kings were,
with the sepulchre of Hulclah, the only tombs inside Jerusalem ; and the
so-called Tomb of Nicodemus is the only ancient tomb inside modern
Jerusalem, so far as has been discovered. There is no doubt that its form
is that of the oldest class of Jewish tombs, and the fact that some of the
kokim are sunk beneath the floor of the chamber seems to agree with
Josephus' description of the Tombs of David and Solomon (7 Ant. xv. 3),
which were invisible even when standing within the monument. It must,
however, be noted that other writers have supposed all the Kings of [udah
to have been buried on the Ophel spur south of the Temple.

6 TKE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTiyR.

The great tunnel from the upper spring to the Pool of Siloam is a third
monument of Jerusalem which certainly dates earlier than the Captivity.
The inscription recently discovered in this rock-cut aqueduct is supposed
to date as early as the eighth century B.C., and it appears probable that
this great work is referred to in the Bible in the account of Hezekiah's
preparations for the Assyrian siege (2 Chron. xxxii. 4, 30), in which it is
stated that the waters of the spring of Gihon were artificially diverted.

The great wall discovered by Sir Charles Warren on Ophel is another
relic which appears to date at least as early as the time of Nehemiah.
Nearly all authorities agree that the Wall of Nehemiah occupied this
position, and that it appears to have been built on the older line of Jotham
and Manasseh (2 Chron. xxvii. 3 ; xxxiii. 14).

The rocky scarp of the Tower of Baris, with its exterior fosse, appears
Ko have existed at least as early as the second century n.c. (18 Ant. xiv. 3),
and is not impossibly mentioned in the Bible (Neh. ii. 8, iii. i ; Zech. xiv. 10 ;
cf I Wars iii. 3, Middoth i. 9, Tamid i. i, Zcbakhim xii. 3). Sir Charles
Warren agrees with Sir Charles Wilson in fixing this on the scarp now
existing at the north-west angle of the Haram. Captain Conder follows
them in this identification, and the same views were held by the Due de
Vogu^, and yet earlier by Dr. Robinson.

The so-called Cotton Grotto, near the Damascus Gate, is a great
quarry whence the Temple stones were obtained. It may have been used
by Solomon, and was clearly in existence in the time of Herod. It is
perhaps to this grotto that Josephus alludes in speaking of the ' Royal
Caverns ' (5 Wars iv. 2) on the north side of the city.

The architectural character of the old rock-cut monuments in the
Kedron valley, opposite to the Haram, has led architectural authorities to
regard these sepulchres as belonging probably to the Hasmoncan period —
the second century n.c. Josephus speaks of a monument of Alexander
(Jannaeus) on the east of the city (5 Wars vii, 3), in a situation possibly
represented by that of the Tantur Fer'un, or so-called Absalom's Pillar,
which may thus perhaps be identified with the sepulchre of the Hasmonean
monarch, Alexander Jannajus. Two other tombs in immediate proximity
are traditionally named after St. James and Zechariah ; but on the facade
of the first there is a rude inscription in square Hebrew, which mentions
the family of the Bene Hezir as there buried. This family of priests m's

JERUSALEM. 7

mentioned in the Bible (i Chron. xxiv. 15), and the date of the inscrip-
tion (which is in so inaccessible a position as to have been very probably
cut before the facade was completed) is held by the Due de Vogiie to be
determined by the form of the characters as belonging to the century
before Christ.

Another monument further south is often mentioned by De Vogiie
and others as the 'Egyptian Tomb' on account of its mouldings; but
these mouldings are repeated on the so-called tombs of Absalom and
Zechariah just noticed, and the remains of two letters, apparently of the
earlier Hebrew character, have recently been observed on this tomb by
M. Clermont Ganneau, which might serve to class this monument as even
earlier than those already noticed.

North of Jerusalem is the fine monument called generally the ' Tombs
of the Kings.' Dr. Robinson has given reasons for supposing that this
is the sepulchre of Helena, Queen of Adiabene, and of her sons. This
monument was surmounted by three pyramids (20 Ant. iv. 3), like that on
the tomb of Zechariah. Pausanias notices the rolling stone at the door
(Grecia Descript. 8, 16), and later writers also mention the monument.
(Euseb. Hist. Eccles. ii. 12 ; Jerome, Epit. Pauls, etc., etc. ; cf ' Biblical
Researches,' i., pp. 363 and 610). The so-called 'Tombs of the Kings '
are still closed by a rolling stone, and parts of the surmounting pyramids
have been discovered in excavating above the fagade. This monument
may therefore be regarded as belonging to the century before the Christian
Era. A fine sarcophagus with an Aramaic inscription, stating that it held
the body of Queen Sara, was discovered in this tomb by De Saulcy.

The so-called ' Tombs of the Judges,' north-west of the preceding, are
held by the Jews to be those of the chiefs of the Sanhedrin ; and this
tradition agrees with the architectural style of the fagade in determinin"-
this system of sepulchres as belonging to the same period with the pre-
cedinof — viz. the Hasmonean aofe.

A tomb of similar character exists on the south side of Wady Rababeh,
having a frieze ornamented with rosettes and triglyphs. This monument
appears to agree in position with the sepulchre of Ananus (5 Wars xii. 2),
the famous high priest who lived about the time of Christ. The tomb of
Simon the Just (fourth century b.c.) is shown by the Jews north of the
city, but there is no evidence beyond tradition of its identity.

8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The great drafted masonry of the Haram walls is all of one class to
the foundation (with differences of finish according to position), and it is
referred by the Due dc Vot,niL: entirely to the Herodian period. The
discover)' of Phojnician letters at the base of the wall near the south-east
angle does not of necessity prove that this rampart was erected by
Solomon, as the character was also in use in Herod's time. Captain
Conder has followed De Vogiie in supposing the present ramparts to have
been erected from their foundation by Herod. This question is, however,
further discussed in detail on a later page.

The great reservoir, now known as Hummam el Batrak or Hczekiah's
Pool, is supposed by many authorities to be the pool Amygdalon (or ' of
the towers') mentioned by Josephus (5 Wars xi. 4), apparently near
Hippicus. In this case the pool is at least as old as the Herodian
period.

The low-level aqueduct from Bethlehem was constructed by Pontius
Pilate (18 Ant. iii. 2), and this is the last of the existing remains in and
round the city which can be assigned to the period preceding the great
destruction by Titus in 70 a.d. For although it is agreed by nearly all
authorities that the present ' Tower of David ' stands on the site of one
of the old Royal Towers (representing Phasaelus according to Lewin,
De Vogiie, Conder, and others, or Hippicus according to Robinson and
earlier authorities), the existing masonry is in part more modern.
The great Tyropoeon Bridge, which existed already before Pompcy's
siege (63 B.C.), may be considered as part of the Haram, and the arch,
now represented by a few haunch stones, is of the Herodian age. The
date of the aqueduct leading into the Haram from outside the Damascus
Gate is uncertain, but it has been thought to represent the narrow passage
called Strato's by Josephus (13 Ant. xi. 2), and in this case the excavation
is at least as old as the Hasmonean age.

The remaining monuments of ancient Jerusalem, of which no traces
have as yet been recognised with certainty, include tlie famous second
wall, commenced by Solomon, to include the lower city, and the third
wall, built about 40 a.d. by Agrippa, yet further north. The various
theories concerning these fortifications will be mentioned later.

The tomb of John Hyrcanus, near the pool Amygdalon, is also
unknown, and the sites of the towers of Psephinus and Mariamne remain

JERUSALEM. 9

doubtful. The Monument of the Fuller, the Women's Towers, the pool
Struthius, are also subjects of controversy ; as is the exact position of
the Holy House within the Haram area, and the extent of the Temple
enclosure, with the position of its gates. Of natural features, the
Dragon's Well and the Serpent's Pool (with the adjoining monument of
Herod) are the most important remaining to be fixed, while the site of
Calvary, traditionally placed within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
has been sujsposed by Captain Conder to be recognisable in the present
cliff of Jeremiah's Grotto.

The first builder whose work can be recognised after the great
destruction by Titus is the Emperor Hadrian, who rebuilt Jerusalem
under the new name ^lia Capitolina in 136 a.d. The walls erected
by this Emperor seem probably to have followed a line closely repre-
sented by that of the present city wall, excluding great part of the high
south-west hill now called Sion. This line on the south was clearly so
traced when the Bordeaux Pilgrim visited Jerusalem in -ij^n a.d., when
Hadrian's walls were apparently still standing.

Hadrian erected a statue of Jupiter (still in position when seen by
the Bordeaux Pilgrim) on the site of the Temple (Jerome, Comm. on
Isaiah ii. 8 and on Matt. xxiv. 15), and the inscription which was cut
on its base is still recognisable on a large stone built upside down
into the south wall of the Haram near the Double Gate. According
to Eusebius (Vita Const, iii. 26) and Jerome (Epit. xlix.), Hadrian
also built a Temple of Venus on the site of the present Church of
the Holy Sepulchre ; but of this no remains have been recognised. A
coin of Antoninus Pius represents such a temple as existing in
Jerusalem. Among the other public buildings of this period were two
markets, a theatre, a mint, a tricameron, a tetranymphon, and a
dodekapylon (' Paschal Chronicle '), but none of these have been
recognised. It is, however, supposed on architectural grounds that
the so-called Ecce Homo arch was a triumphal entry (similar to that
at Jerash, beyond Jordan) erected by Hadrian, or by one of his
immediate successors, in the second century a.d.

The attempt of the Emperor Julian to rebuild the Jerusalem
Temple in the fourth century failed entirely ; in 333 a.d. the enclosure
was found still in ruins by the Bordeaux Pilgrim. According to Eusebius,

10 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

it would appear that a church already existed on Olivet when Helena
visited the city in 326 A.n. According to Epiphanius, seven synagogues
were found by Hadrian on Sion, one of which still existed in the fourth
century, according to the Bordeaux Pilgrim. Epiphanius also speaks
of the Sion Church (the later Coenaculum) as existing in the time of
Hadrian. A cemetery of tombs in the Wady Rababeh belonging to this
church will be found described in a later page under the name of that
\'allcy.

It is possible that the great pool called Birket Israil was constructed
at the time of the restoration of Jerusalem by Hadrian ; for, although
Sir Charles Warren has shown that some kind of fosse must here
have existed at a very early period, there is no description of this
pool in the works of Josephus, and it is very improbable that he
would have omitted to mention so enormous a reservoir had it existed
in his time. He speaks only of a fosse, and the masonry of the birket
is inferior in character, and resembles the later Roman work in Syria.
This reservoir appears to be mentioned by the Bordeaux Pilgrim
(section 4) as already existing, and would therefore most naturally be
referable to Hadrian.

With the conversion of Constantine a new building epoch commences
in Jerusalem. The original Basilica of the Anastasis was completed by
Constantine in the year 335 .\.n. The situation of the traditional site is
described by Theodorus (530 a.d.) as being in the middle of the city.
Eucherius (427 — 40 a.d.) places it north of Sion, and the site of Sion at
this time was identical with that now shown — the hill of the old upper city.
The Bordeaux Pilgrim {m a.d.) speaks of the Basilica, which was then
building, as on the left hand of a pilgrim proceeding to the Porta
Neapolitana, which is generally supposed to have been the present
Damascus Gate. Eusebius and Jerome (in the ' Onomasticon ') also place
Golgotha north of Sion. These various notices appear to indicate that
Constantine's Basilica occupied the same site now shown as that of the
Holy Sepulchre, close to the hill of Calvary. The view of Mr. Fergusson
will, however, be mentioned later. The Due de Vogue and Professor
Willis agree in restoring the Basilica on the present site in such a manner
as to make the walls and colonnade still existing east of the present
church parts of the atrium and propylca, which are described by

JERUSALEM. ti

Eusebius (Vita Constant, iii. 39) as existing east of the Basilica and of the
Sepulchre.

This Basilica is described by various writers of the fourth, fifth
and sixth centuries, and often mentioned in the Homilies of St. Cyril.
It was destroyed in 614 x\.d. by Chosroes II., a Sassanian King of
Persia, as mentioned by the contemporary writer of the ' Paschal
Chronicle.'

Other buildings existing in the fourth, fifth, and sixth centuries are
as follows. The Church or Basilica of the Ascension, on the summit of
Olivet, was already in existence in 2)11 a.d., but no trace of this original
building has been found. The Church of the Tomb of the Virgin is
mentioned by John of Damascus as existing in the time of the Empress
Pulcheria (390 — 450 A. p.) and a Basilica is here described by Theodorus
{530 A.D.). Bernard, in 867 a.d., found it in ruins — a round church with-
out any roof. A Basilica is described in the south-east angle of the
Haram as early as 530 a.d., marking the site of the so-called Cradle of
Christ. Theodorus calls it St. Simeon.

In the last years of her life the Empress Eudoxia retired to Jerusalem
(450 — 461 A.D.), and rebuilt the walls of the city. She also erected a
Church of St. Stephen, north of the city, of which some traces remain.
(Cf. under head el Heidhemiyeh.) It was a stadium from the city wall
(Evagrlus Hist. Eccles. I. 22), and in or near it the Empress was burled.
A tomb discovered recently in this vicinity has been thought to be pos-
sibly that of Eudoxia. The church was found in ruins by Ssewulf in
1 102 A.D.

The following sites are also mentioned in the fifth and sixth centuries,
before the Moslem conquest, which took place under Omar in 637 a.d.
St. Anne (a church re-erected by the Crusaders) is mentioned by Antony
of Piacenza in 600 a.d. The Church of Gethsemane existed even In the
fourth century. St. Pelagia, on Olivet (a church with the tomb of the
Saint), Is noticed by Theodorus In 530 a.d., and probably occupied the
site of the present traditional cave of St. Pelagia. The same author
speaks also of the Church of St. Peter on Sion — probably the site after-
wards known as Gallicantus. Another Chapel of St. Mark, not now
recognisable, seems also to have then stood on Sion.

The most important buildings of the early Christian period after the

12 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

time of Constantinc appear, however, to have been those of Justinian, in
the Haram area, erected about 532 a.d. Theodorus was the architect,
and the well-known tract describing Jerusalem in the sixth century bears
his name. These buildings included the Basilica of St. Mary (cf. ' Pro-
copius de Edificiis Justiniani,' v. 6), which stood on vaults, and was
surrounded with cloisters {stoa) ; and also two hospitals for the sick and
poor. The remains of this Basilica are recognised by the Due dc Vogiie
in the present mosque el Aksa, and it is possible that not only the later
ornamentation of the Double Gate, but also the structure of the Golden
Gate, and the roofing of many of the Haram cisterns, belong to this
period, as well as the vaulting of the Twin Pools, which is similar to that
of the tunnel leading to the Double Gate. In the fourth century the
Twin Pools were apparently open and uncovered, though now beneath
the lc\-el of the roadway.

The Basilica of Constantine, burnt in 614 a.d., was replaced in 616 a.d.
by a group of small chapels or oratories erected by the Monk Modestus,
afterwards Patriarch of Jerusalem. A curious plan exists (cf De Vogiie,
' Eglises de la Terre Sainte,' p. 161), made by Arculphus about 680 a.d.,
showing these chapels, one being on the supposed site of Calvary, a
second over the cave of the Invention of the Cross, a third dedicated to
St. Mary, west of Calvary, while the Holy Sepulchre itself stood in a
rotunda, called the Martyrion. These chapels were destroyed in 1010 a.d.
by order of the Fatemite Khalif Hakem. They were again replaced by
little chapels {praloria valde modica), which the Crusaders found standing,
and which they incorporated in their great Cathedral ('William of Tyre,'
viii. 3).

Among the Christian chapels already in existence when the Crusaders
entered Jerusalem may be mentioned St. John on Olivet, St. Leon in the
valley of Jehosaphat, the Chapels of the Agony and of the Credo on
Olivet, and St. Mamilla, apparently near the present Birket Mamilla. The
great Hospital of St. John was erected on the old site of Charlemagne's
hospice, which is mentioned by Bernhard the Wise in 867 a.d., adjoining
a Church of St. Mary (afterwards St. Maria Majora). This building was,
however, destroyed in the eleventh century. St. Maria Latina, north of
the hospice, was founded by the merchants of Amalfi between 10 14 and
1023 a.d., and the firman granted for its re-endowment by the INIoslcm

JERUSALEM. 13

ruler, Melek Muzzafer, in 1023 a.d., is still preserved in the Franciscan
monastery at Jerusalem. Sancta Maria Parva, adjoining this last, was
added for female pilt^rims, apparently also in the eleventh century
(William of Tyre, ix. 18), and a hospital and chapel of St. John the
Almoner adjoined this smaller church. All these buildings existed when
the first Crusaders entered Jerusalem. The cemetery of Aceldama is
also mentioned as early as 680 a.d., apparently at the present site (Hakk
ed Dumm). This site adjoined the mediaeval Chaudemar, but is to
be distinguished from the Charnel House of the Lion mentioned by
Bernard the Wise and John of Wirtzburg, which was on the site of the
present cemetery, near Birket Mamilla.

The pool of Siloam appears also to have been at one time covered by
a building, which is called a church by Antony of Piacenza, about 600 a.d.,
and the tombs in the Jehosaphat Valley were at this time inhabited by
Christian hermits.

The early pilgrims before 530 a.d. speak, as we have seen, of the
Temple enclosure as in ruins. The Bordeaux Pilgrim mentions the vault
and tanks, the ramparts and the ' pierced stone,' near which was Hadrian's
statue. The latter is apparently the present Sakhrah rock, pierced by
the shaft leading to the cave beneath. Eucherius (in the fifth century)
saw only a few cisterns, and \hQ pinna, or pinnacle, which appears to have
been formed by the masonry of the south-east angle, standing many
courses higher than the rest of the ancient walls.

None of the early writers speak of the Golden Gate before Justinian.
Antony of Piacenza and Saewulf in 1102 are the first to describe this
monument, and the latter does not carry its real history back further than
the time of Heraclius (the beginning of the seventh century). Arculphus,
in 680 A.D., is the first to speak of the Moslem buildings erected in the
Temple Area. It appears from Eutychius (tenth century), and from the
Arabic writers, Mejr ed Din and Jelal ed Din (fifteenth century), that
Omar found no building over or near the Sakhrah rock. The Khalif
erected a wooden building near the Rock, but this was subsequently
removed ; it is to this structure that Arculphus appears to allude in
describing a rude square house of prayer on the site of the Temple, raised
with planks and beams on old foundations, and large enough to hold
3,000 men.

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The followincf arc the most important notices of Jerusalem from the
fourth to the twelfth centuries :

The earliest description is that written by the unknown Pilyrim of
Bordeaux, who was in Jerusalem in the year 2ioo< while Constantine's
Church was being built.

'Sunt in Hicrusalem piscina; magna; dune
ad latus tcmpli, id est, una ad dextcram,
alia ad sinistram, quas Salomon fecit ; in-
tcrius vlto in civitatc sunt piscina; gcmellares,
quincjue jwrticus habcntes, qux appellantur
Bcihsaida". Ibi a:gri multorum annorum
sanabantur; aquam autem habent piscinx in
niodum cocci turbatam. Est et ibi crypta,
ubi Salomon dxmones torquebat Et ibi est
nngulus turris excelsissima;, ubi Dominus
asccndit, et dixit ci, qui tentabat euni : Si
filius Dei es, mitte te deorsum. Et ait ci
Dominus : Non tentabis Dominum Deum
tuum, sed illi soli servies. Ibi est lapis an-
gularis magnus, de quo dictum est : I,a[)idem,
quern reprobaverunt jedificantes, hie factus
est ad caput anguli. Et sub pinna turris
ipsius sunt cubicula plurima, ubi Salomon
palatium habebat. Ibi etiam constat cubi-
culum in quo sedit et Sapientiam descripsit ;
ipsum vcro cubiculum uno lapide est tectum.
Sunt ibi et exceptuaria magna aquce subter-
ranea et piscinse magno opcre a;dificatx.
Et in lede ipsa, ubi templum fuit, quod
Salomon a;dificavit, in marmore ante aram
sanguincm Zacliaria; dicunt hodie fusum;
etiam parent vestigia clavorum militum, qui
cum occiderunt, per totam arcam, ut putes
in cera fixum esse. Sunt ibi et statUcX dua;
Hadriani, et est non longe de statuis lapis
pcrtusus, ad qucm vcniunt juda;i singulis
annis, ct unguent cum, et lamcntant sc cum

' There are in Jerusalem two large pools
beside the Temple, that is, one to the right,'
the other to the left,'- which Solomon made ;
but within the city are the Twin Pools,'
having five porches, which are called Beth-
saida. There those who had been many
years sick were healed, for the water of the
pools is troubled as if boiling. There also
is the crypt where Solomon tormented de-
mons'* ; and there is the corner of a very high
tower ^ where the Lord ascended, and he who
tempted Him said, " If Thou be the Son of
God, cast Thyself down ;" and the Lord said
to him, " Thou shalt not tempt the Lord thy
God, but Him only shalt thou serve." There
is the great Stone of the Corner, of which
it is said, " The stone which the builders
refused is here made the head of the corner."
And under the pinnacle of the same tower
are very many cells where Solomon had his
palace." There also stands the cell in which
he sat and wrote about Wisdom, and this
cell is roofed by a single stone.^ There are
also great tanks underground for water, and
pools made by great labour. And in the en-
closure itself, where was the temple which
Solomon built, in the marble before the
altar, the blood of Zachariah, son of liara-
chiali, they say, yet flows (dicunt hodie
fusum), also the marks appear of the clubs of
the soldiers who slew him, all over the court,
so that you would think them printed in wax.

' Cistern near St Anne. - Birket Israil.

' Twin Pools by the barracks, north-west angle of Haram. ■* Rock-cut passage from last.
* South-cast angle of Haram. o 'Vaults at south-east angle.

"Ancient window in east wall at south-east angle, roofed, as described, with a single
stone, and large enough to be called a cell.

JERUSALEM.

gemitu, et vestimenta sua scindunt, et sic
recedunt. Est ibi et domus EzechL-e, regis
Juda2.

' Item exeunti Hierusalem, ut ascendas
Sion, in parte sinistra et deorsum in valle,
juxta murum, est piscina, qua dicitur Siloa
et habet quadriporticum, et alia piscina
grandis foras. Hie fons sex diebus atque
noctibus currit, septimo vero die, qui est
sabbatum, in totum nee nocte, nee die
currit.

' Inde eadem via ascenditur Sion, et paret,
ubi fuit domus Caipha: sacerdotis, et columna
adhuc ibi est, in qua Christum flagellis ceci-
derunt. Intus autem. intra murum Sion,
paret locus, ubi palatium habuit David. Ex
septem synagogis, qu^ illic fuerant, una tan-
tum remansit ; reliquEe autem arantur et
seminantur, sicut Isaias propheta dixit.

' Inde ut eas foras murum de Sion, eunti
ad portam neapolitanam ad partem dexteram,
deorsum in valle sunt parietes, ubi domus
fuit sive prsetorium Pontii Pilati : ubi Domi-
nus auditus est, antequam pateretur. A
sinistra autem parte est monticulus Golgotha,
ubi Dominus crucifixus est. Inde quasi ad
lapidis missum est crypta, ubi corpus ejus
positum fuit, et tertio die surrexit. Ibidem
mode jussu Constantini imperatoris basilica
facta est, id est, dominicum miraj pulchritu-
dinis, habens ad latus exceptoria, unde aqua
levatur, et balneum a tergo, ubi infantes
lavantur.

There are the two statues of Hadrian, and
there is not far from the statues a pierced
stone (lapis pertusus),i to which come the
Jews every year and anoint it, and bewail
themselves with groans, and tear their gar-
ments, and thus depart. And there is the
house of Hezekiah, King of Judah.

' Likewise to one going out of Jerusalem,
that you may go up Sion, on the left and
down in the valley near the wall is the pool
which is called Siloa, and it has four porches,
and another great pool outside. Here a foun-
tain runs six days and nights, but on the
seventh day, which is the Sabbath, it runs not
neither the whole day nor the whole night. -

' Thence by the same way one goes up
Sion, and the place where was the house of
Caiphas the priest is seen, and the column is
still there on which they scourged Christ with
scourges.^ But within, inside the wall of
Sion, appears the place where David had his
palace.* Of the seven synagogues which
were there, only one remains, for the rest
have been ploughed and sown, as the prophet
Isaias said.

' Thence that you may go out of the wall
from Sion (inde ut eas foras murum de Sion)
for one going to the Neapolitan Gate,^ on
the right hand, down in the valley are walls,
where was the house orprcetorium of Pontius
Pilate", where the Lord was heard before He
suffered. But on the left hand is the little
Mount Golgotha'', where the Lord was cru-
cified. Thence about a stone's-throw is the
crypt ^ where His body was placed and rose
the third day. There now, by order of the
Emperor Constantine, a basilica is making,
that is a^ti«////Wc;« of wonderful beauty, having
beside it a tank, whence the water is drawn, and
a bath behind, where the infants are washed.

1 The Sakhrah Rock.

2 Siloam, with the old pool beneath, and an intermittent supply, as at present.

2 The present site of Caiaphas House. ■* The so-called Tower of David.

5 Damascus Gate. '^ Present barracks, north-west angle of Haram.

" Calvary Chapel. s ^ioVj Sepulchre.

1 6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

'Item ab Hicrusalcm cunti ad portam, ' Likewise from Jerusalem, for one going

qiine est contra oricntcm, ut asccndatur in to the gate which is on the east, that he may

inotitcm Olivcti, vallis, qux dicitur Josaphat. ascend the Mount of Olives, there is the

Ad partem sinistram, ubi sunt vinea;, est et valley which is called Jchosaphat.' On the

petra, ubi Judas Iscarioth Christum tradidit ; left, where are the vineyards, is also the stone

ad partem vero dextcram est arbor palnix', where Judas Iscariot betrayed Christ, but on

de qua infantes ramos tulcrunt ct, veniente the right is the palm-tree whence the children

Christo subslravcrunt Inde non longe, quasi plucked branches, and coming to Christ,

ad lapidis missum, sunt monumenta duo, strewed them beneath. Thence not far, about

nionubitesniira:pulchritudinis,''acta: in unum a stone's-throw, are two monuments con-

positus est Isaias propheta, qui est vere mono- structed of wondrous beauty ; in one is placed

lilhus, et in alium Ezechias, rex judaeorum. Isaias the prophet,'-' which is a true monolith,

and in the other Hezekiah, King of the Jews.-'

' Inde ascendis in montem Oliveti, ubi ' Thence you ascend the Mount of

Dominus ante passionem discipulos docuit. Olives, where the Lord taught His disciples

Ibi f^icta est jussu Constantini basilica mirns before His passion. There is made by com-

l)ulchritudinis. Inde non longe est monti- mand of Constantine a basilica of wonderful

cuius, ubi Uominus ascendit orare, et apparuit beauty. Thence, not far, is the little mount

illic Moyses et Elias, quando Tetrum et where the Lord ascended to pray, and Moses

Joannem secum duxit.' and Elias appeared there, when He took with

Him Peter and John.'^

Constantine's Basilica is thus described by Eusebius (Professor Willis's
translation is followed) in his ' Life of Constantino,' Book III. :

' 34. First, the Emperor's magnificence decorated the Sacred Cave itself, as the head of the
whole work, with choice columns and great decoration, and ornamented it in every possible
manner.

' 35. He then proceeded to set in order an extensive space open to the sky, which he
paved witii polished stones, and enclosed on three sides with long cloisters.

' 36. On that side of the court which was situated opposite the Cave and towards the
rising sun was i)laced the Basilica (Sair/Xsw; niai), an admirable work, raised to a mighty
elevation, and extensive in length and breadth. Its interior was lined with many-coloured
marbles, and the outer surface of its walls decorated with polished and closely jointed
masonry as handsome as marble itself. The roof, with its chambers, was covered with lead
to protect it from the winter rains. The inner roof was decorated with sculjjtured panels, and
extended like a vast sea over the whole Basilica, and being gilt with the purest gold, caused
the entire building to shine as if with the rays of light.

' 37. Moreover, on either side double piers of double porticoes above and below extended
the full length of the temple, and their ceilings were gilt. Of these porticoes, those in front
were sustained by enormous columns, those within by square pilasters richly ornamented.
Three doors towards the rising sun admitted the entering crowd.

' Kcdron Valley. 2 Now called Tomb of Zecharias.

' Now called Absolom's Pillar.

* This is a mistake, as the Transfiguration occurred in Galilee.

JERUSALEM.

' 38. Opposite these doors was the apse, the head of the whole work, raised to the very
roof of the Basilica. It was surrounded by twelve columns, the number of the Apostles, and
they were ornamented with large silver capitals, which the Emperor dedicated to God as a
beautiful gift.

' 39. Hence, going forward to the entrances which were before the temple, he interposed
an open space, namely, between the Basilica and the portals ; there were also recessed
chambers (exedra;) on each side of the first or entrance court, which had cloisters attached
to it — and lastly the gates of the court. Beyond them, in the very middle of the wide market-
place, stood the propyla^a, or vestibule, of the whole work, which being decorated in the most
imposing manner, afforded to those who were passing a promise of the wonders within. This
temple did the Emperor construct as a Martyrium of the saving Resurrection.' — Eusebius, 'Vita
Constantini,' lib. iii.

The next account of the city
Eucherius about 427 — 440 a.d.

' Hierusalem ab Aelio Hadriano Aelia
vocitatur. Nam, post subversionem Titi,
conditoris Aelii nomen cum opere suscepit.
Natura loci edita, ajunt, qualibet ex parte
haud dubie ascendendum erit ; diutino quippe,
sed moUi tractu assurgit. Situs ipse urbis
pene in orbem circumactus, non parvo mu-
rorum ambitu, quo etiam montem Sion,
quondam vicinum, jam intra se recipit, qui,
a meredie positus, pro arce urbi supereminet.
Major civitatis pars infra montem jacet in
planitie humilioris collis posita.

' Mons Sion, latere uno, quod aquilonem
respicit, clericorum religiosorumque habita-
tionibus frequentatur : cujus in vertice plani-
tiem monachorum cellula; obtinent ecclcsiam
circumdantes, quje illic, ut fertur, ab apostolis
fundata pro loci resurrectionis dominicre
reverentia : ob quod promissum quondam
per Dominum paracleto repleti sunt spiritu.

' Celebriores tres sunt portarum exitus :
unus ab occasu, alter ab oriente, tertius a
septentrionali parte urbis.

' Primum de locis Sanctis. Pro conditione
platearum divertendum est ad basilicam,
qu33 martyrium appellatur, a Constantino
magno cuitu exstructa. Dehinc cohferentia
ab occasu insunt Golgotha atque anastasis ;
sed anastasis in loco est resurrectionis, Gol-

which should be quoted is that of

' Jerusalem is called ^lia after /Elius
Hadrianus. For after the destruction by
Titus it received the name with the works of
its founder, ^Elius. The nature of the place
being, they say, lofty, it must be of necessity
ascended to from all sides ; because it rises
for a long way, although gradually. The site
of the city itself is almost round, with no
small circuit of walls, within which Mount
Sion, formerly near, is now included, which
rises on the south as the citadel of the town.
The greater part of the city lies below the
mount, placed on the flat of a lower hill.

' Mount Sion is occupied on the side
looking north (aquilonem) by the dwellings of
clerics and religious persons ; on the flat sum-
mit are cells of monks round a church, which
was there founded, as is said, by the Apostles
through reverence of the place of the Resur-
rection of the Lord, because, as promised
before by the Lord, they were filled with the
Holy Ghost.

'The chief gates are three, one on the
west, another on the east, and a third on the
north side of the city.

' First of the holy places. By the position
of the streets it is necessary to turn towards
the Basilica, which is called Martyrium, built
with great zeal by Constantine. Joining this,
on the west, are Golgotha and the Anastasis ;
the Anastasis on the site of the Resurrection,

THE SUR VE V OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

gotha vero, medius inter anastasim ac mar-
tyrium, locus est dominicae passionis : in quo,
etiam rupcs apparet, qua: quondam ipsam
affixo Domini corpore, crucem pertulit.
Atque hcec turn extra montem Sion posita
cernuntur, quo sc ad aquiloncm deficicns loci
tumor porriyit.

' Templum vero, in inferior! parte urbis
in vicinia muri ab oriente locatum niagni-
ficeque constructum, quondam miraculum
fuit, ex quo parietis unius in ruinis qua:dam
pinna stat super reliquis ad fundamenta
usque destructis. Paucae illic cisternae in
usum aquarum ostenduntur in ea parte civi-
tatis, quffi ad septcntrionem in vicinia temj^li
extenditur.

' Bethesda gemino apparet insignis lacu :
alter hibernis plerumque impletur imbribus,
alter rubris est discolor aquis.

' Ab ea fronte montis Sion, qu;s prrerupta
rupe orientalem plagam spectat, infra muros
atque e radicibus collis fons Siloa prorumpit,
qui non semper, scd in certis horis diebusque
emanat per antra saxaque decurrens; aquarum
accessu in meridiem fluit. Juxtamurum Jeru-
salem vel templi ab oriente Geennon occurrit
sive vallis Josaphat a septentrione in austrum
porrecta, per quam torrens, siquando pluvias
aquas recipit, decurrit

' Circumjccta hierosolymitanx urbis as-
pcre et montosa cernuntur, qux etiam mon-
tem Oliveti mille a sc discretum passibus in
oricntem prespectat. Dux in eo ecclesire
celeberrimsehabentur : una in eodem fundata
loco, in quo Dominus ad disci]julos sues
habuisse dicitur sermones, altera in loco, de
quo ccElum ascendisse traditur.'

but Golgotha, in the middle between Anastasis
and the Marlyrium, is the place of the Lord's
Passion, where also the rock appears which
once bore the cross with the Lord's body on
it. And these places are found outside Sion,
where a knoll of scanty size stands on the
north.

' But the Temple is placed in the lower
part of the city near the east wall, and mag-
nificently constructed, being formerly mar-
vellous, of which a certain pinnacle of one
of these ruined walls stands above the rest,
which are demolished even to their founda-
tions. A few cisterns of water still in use are
shown in that part of the city, which is to the
north, in the neighbourhood of the Temple.

' Bethesda appears famous for its Twin
Pool; the one is filled generally by the winter
showers, the other is discoloured with red
waters.

' On that face of Mount Sion which looks
east, with a steep rock, below the walls and
at the bottom of the hill, the Fountain of Siloa
bursts forth, which issues not always, but at
certain hours and days, running through
caves and rocks, the w^ater flows south from
the entrance. Near the wall of Jerusalem,
or of the Temple, on the east, is Geennon,
or the Valley of Josaphat, lying north and
south, through which a torrent flows when
it receives the rain waters.

' Round the city of the Hierosolymites are
found rugged and mountainous parts, where
also the Mount of Olives is seen a mile to the
east. There are two very famous churches
on it : one is founded on that spot where
the Lord is said to have held discourse with
His disciples, the other in the place where
He is held to have ascended to heaven.'

The next is the account written by Theodorus, probably the architect of
that name sent by Justinian about 530 a.d. to build the Basilica of St. Mary.

'2. In medio civitatis est basilica. A 'In the midst of the city is a Basilica,

parte occidentis intras in sanctam resurrec- From the west you may enter the Holy
tioncni, ubi est sepulcrum Domini nostri Resurrection, where is the Sepulchre of our

JERUSALEM.

Jesu Christi. Et est ibi mons Calvarice, ad
quern montem per gradus callis est. Ibi
Dominus crucifixus est, et ibi est altare
grande : sub uno tecto est. De sepulcio
Domini usque in Calvarias locum sunt passus
numeio XV. In monte Calvarias Abraham
obtulit filium suum in holocaustum, et quia
mons petraeus est, in ipso monte, hoc est ad
pedem montis ipsius, fecit Abraham altare.
Super altare eniinet mons.

' 3. Et in circuitu montis sunt cancelli de
argento. Et ibi est esca, ubi fuit resuscitatus
per quem fuit crux Christi declarata : cubicu-
lum, ubi posita est crux Domini nostri Jesu
Christi. Et ipsa crux est de auro et gemmis
ornata, et crelum desuper aureum, et deforis
habet cancellum. Ibi est illud missorium,
ubi portatum fuit caput Joannis Baptists;
ante Herodem regem. Et ibi est cornu illud,
unde unctus est David. Et ibi plasmatus est
Adam.

' 4. Postea intras in basilicam, in Golgo-
thara, ubi inventse sunt tres cruces abscon-
ditce. Et est ibi altare de auro et argento.
Et habet columnas novem aureas, quje sus-
tinent illud altare. Et est in media basilica
lancea, unde percussus fuit Dominus Jesus
Christus in latus suum. Et de ipsa lancea
facta est crux, et sic lucet per noctem sicut
sol per diem.

' De Calvariaa loco usque in Golgotham
passus sunt numero XV.

' 5. Inventio sanctfe crucis. Quando in-
venta est ab Helena, matre Constantini,
XVII kal. octobris et per septem dies in
Hierusalem ad sanctum sepulcrum Domini
missse celebrantur, et ipsa crux ostenditur.

' 6. De Golgotha usque in sanctam Sion
passus numero CC, qu^ est mater omnium
ecclesiarum : quam Sion Dominus noster
Christus cum apostolis fundavit. Ipsa fuit
domus sancti Marci evangelistte. Columna,
quae fuit in domo Caiphte, ad quam Domi-

Lord Jesus Christ. There also is Mount
Calvary, to which mount the way is by steps.
There the Lord was crucified, and there is a
great altar ; it is (all) under one roof. From
the Sepulchre of the Lord to the place of
Calvary are paces (passus) XV in number.
In Mount Calvary Abraham offered his son
as a holocaust, and since it is a stony moun-
tain, in this same mount, to wit at the foot of
the mount itself, Abraham made an altar.
Above the altar rises the mount.

' And round the mount are silver railings,
and there is the . . . (esca) where he was
brought to life by whom the cross of Christ
was made known : the cell where is placed
the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ. And
the cross itself is adorned with gems and
gold, and the roof above is gold, and outside
is a railing (cancellum). There is the banquet
hall (missorium), where the head of John the
Baptist was brought before Herod the King.
And there is the horn wherewith David was
anointed. And there Adam was formed.

'Afterwards, you may enter the Basilica
in Golgotha, where the three crosses were
hidden. And there is an altar of gold and
silver ; and it has nine gold columns which
sustain the altar there. In the midst of the
Basilica is the lance wherewith the Lord
Jesus Christ was struck in His side. And of
this lance a cross is made, and it shines by
night as the sun by day.

' From the place of Calvary to Golgotha
are paces XV by number.

'The Invention of the Holy Cross.
When it was found by Helena, mother of
Constantine, on the XVII of the calends of
October ; and for seven days masses are cele-
brated in Jerusalem at the Holy Sepulchre of
the Lord, and the cross itself is shown.

'From Golgotha even to Saint Sion are
paces in number two hundred, which is the
mother of all churches, which Sion our Lord
Christ founded with His Apostles. There
was the House of St. Mark the Evangelist.
The column which was in the House of

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

nus Christus (lagellatus, est modo in Sancta
Sion. Jussu Domini ipsa columna secuta
est, ct quoniodo earn, dum flagellarctur,
amplexavit, sicut in. ccra, sic brachia ejus,
manus vel digiti in ea haeserunt, et hodic
paret, sed et facicm onincm, mcntum, nasum
vcl oculos ejus, sicut in cera, designavit. Et
est ibi in media basilica corona spinca, undc
coronatus fuit Dominus apud judceos, ct
misit manum suani super coronam. Indc
venis ad sacrarium. Vx ibi est lancea. Et
ibi est lapis illc, undc lapidatus est sanctus
Stephanus. Ibi docebat Dominus discipulos
sues, quum cosnavit cum eis.

' De sancta Sion ad domum Caiphre, quje
est modo ecclcsia sancti Petri, sunt plus
minus passus numero L.

' 7. De domo Caipha; ad prffitorium
Pilati plus minus passus numero C. Ibi est
ecclesia sanctse Sophite. Juxta se missus est
sanctus Hieremias in lacum.

' 8. Piscina Siloa a lacu, ubi missus est
Hieremias propheta, habet passus numero
C, qux piscina intra murum est. A domo
rilati usque ad piscinam probaticam plus
minus passus numero C. Ibi Dominus
Christus paralyticum curavit, cujus lectus
adhuc ibi stat. Juxta piscinam probaticam
est ecclesia dominie Maria:, ubi se lavabant
infirmi et sanabantur.

' 9. Et venis ad illam pinnam templi, ubi
tentavit satanas Dominum nostrum Jesum
Christum, et est ibi basilica in cruce posita.
Sanctus Jacobus, quem Dominus manu sua
episcopum ordinavit, post ascensionem Do-
mini de pinna templi prascipitatus est, et
nihil ei nocuit, sed fullo eum de vecte, quem
reportare consueverat, occidit, et positus est
in monte Oliveti.

' 10. Sanctus Stephanus foras portam
Galilaea; lapidatus est. Ibi et ecclesia ejus
est, quam fabricavit domina Eudocia, uxor
Theodosii imperatoris.

' 1 1. Ibi est vallis Josaphat. Ibi judica-

Caiphas, on which the Lord Christ was
scourged, is now in St. Sion. At the com-
mand of the Lord the column itself followed,
and like as He embraced it, while He was
scourged, so His arms, His hands, or His
fingers, were stamped in it as in wax, and it
.still appears; and all Mis face, His chin. His
nose, and His eyes. He marked as though in
wax. And there in the middle of the P.asilica
is the crown of thorns with which the Lord
was crowned by the Jews, and He put His
hand on the crown. Thence you come to
the sacristy, and there is the lance. And
there is that stone with which St. Stephen
was stoned. There the Lord taught His
disciples, when He supped with them.

' From St. Sion to the House of Caiphas,
which is now the Church of St. Peter, are
about fifty paces by number.

' From the House of Caiphas to the Prre-
torium of Pilate, about an hundred paces by
number. There is the Church of St. Sophia.
Near it Jeremiah was placed in the pool.

' The Pool of Siloam is an hundred paces
from the pool (lacus) where Jeremiah, the
prophet, was put, which pool is inside the
wall. From the House of Pilate to the Sheep
Pool is about an hundred paces. There the
Lord cured the paralytic, whose bed even yet
remains there. Beside the Sheep Pool is the
Church of the Lady Mary, where the sick
wash and are healed.

'And you come to that pinnacle of the
Temple where Satan tempted our Lord Jesus
Christ, and there is a basilica of cross shape
(in cruce posita). St. James, whom the Lord
made bishop with His own hands, after the
ascension of the Lord was thrown from the
pinnacle of the Temple, and it did nothurthim,
but a fuller slew him with the club he carried,
and he was placed on the Mount of Olives.

' St. Stephen was stoned outside the
Galilean Gate. There is his church, which
was made by the Lady Eudoxia, the wife of
the Emperor Theodosius.

' There is the valley of Josaphat. There

JERUSALEM.

turus est Dominus justos et peccatores. Et
ibi est fluvius ni^/m;, qui ignem vomit in
consummationem SKCuli. Et ibi est basilica
sanctse Maris, matris Domini, et ibi est sep-
ulcrum ejus. Et ibi Dominum Judas tra-
didit. Et ibi est locus, ubi Dominus ccenavit
cum discipulis suis. Ibi et Dominus lavit
pedes apostolorum. Ibi sunt quatuor accu-
bitus, ubi Dominus cum apostolis ipse medius
accubuit, qui accubitus ternos homines re-
cipiunt. Modo aliquanti pro religiositate ibi
cum venerint, excepta carne cibaria sua
comedere delectantur, et accendunt lumi-
naria, ubi ipse Dominus apostolis pedes lavit,
quia ipse locus in spelunca est, et descendunt
ibi modo CC monachi.

' 12, A pinna templi subtus monasterium
est castimonialium, et quando aliqua earum
transierit de sseculo, ibi mtus in monasterio
ipso reponitur, et qu£e illuc intraverint, usque-
dum vivunt, inde non exeunt. Quando
aliqua de sanctimonialibus illuc convert! vo-
luerit, aut alicui pcenitenti hue tantummodo
ipsse port^ aperiuntur ; nam semper clause
sunt. Victualia per murum accipiunt, et
aquam de cisterna, quam apud se habent.

' 13. Deinde ascendis in montem. De
Hierusalem usque in montem Oliveti, quod
scribitur, stadia septem sive milliarium unum.
Inde Dominus ascendit in ccelum. Ibi sunt
fabricatEB XXIIII ecclesice, et ibi prope est
spelunca, quje dicitur iJ^aQi, quod interpre-
tatur discipulorum, ubi Dominus, quando
prjedicabat in Hierusalem, requiescebat. In
monte Oliveti posuit Dominus humeros super
lapidem, in quo fixi ambo humeri adhuc
apparent sicut in cera molli, qui locus ideo
icona vocatur. Et est illic etiam fabricata
ecclesia, juxta quam est ecclesia, in qua
sancta Pelagia requiescit. Et ibi sunt duse
basilica, ubi docebat Christus discipulos suos.
Et inde venis ad Galiteam, ubi discipuli
viderunt Dominum Jesum, postquam resur-
rexil a mortuis.

the Lord will judge the just and the sinful.
There is the river Purinos, which will pour
out fire at the end of time. And there is the
Basilica of St. Mary, the Lord's mother, and
there is her sepulchre. And there Judas
betrayed the Lord, and there is the place
where the Lord supped with His disciples.
There also the Lord washed His Apostles'
feet. There are four couches where the Lord
lay with His Apostles, Himself in the midst,
which couches (accubitus) will hold three
men, and now some through piety, when
they come there, delight to eat their food
(save only meat) and light lamps where the
Lord Himself washed His Apostles' feet, for
that place is a cave, and only two hundred
monks can enter it.

' Under the pinnacle of the Temple is a
nunnery or castimonialium, and when one of
them goes from earth, she is placed in the
monastery itself, and those who enter while
they live do not go forth thence. When
anyone would be admitted to vows or for a
penitent, then only the doors are opened, for
they are ever shut. They receive food from
the wall, and water from a cistern which they
have near them.

' Thence you ascend on to the mountain.
From Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives,
as is written, is seven stadia, or a mile.
Thence the Lord ascended to heaven. There
are built XXIIII churches, and there is the
cave called Maza, which is interpreted " of
the disciples," where the Lord, when He
preached in Jerusalem, rested. On the
Mount of Olives the Lord placed His
shoulders against a stone, in which the mark
of both shoulders still appears printed as
though in soft wax, which place is therefore
called Icon, and there also is built a church,
beside which is the church where St. Pelagia
reposes. And there are two basilicas where
Christ taught His disciples, and thence you
come to the Galilee, where the disciples saw
the Lord Christ after His resurrection from
the dead.

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' Sanctus Jacobus et sanctus Zacharias et
sanctus Simeon in una memoria positi sunt,
quam memoriam ipse sanctus Jacobus fabri-
cavit, corpora illorum ipse ibi recondidit et
sc ibi cum eis pra^ccpit jioni.'

' St. James and St. Zachariah and St.
Simeon are placed in one monument, which
St. James himself made, and placed their
bodies himself there, and commanded that
he should be placed with them.'

Arculfiis, ' the holy bishop ' of Gaul, visited the city about the year
6So A.D., and coming home was wrecked on the coast of Scotland, and
gave an account of llie Moly Places, with a rough plan, the earliest which
exists, to the monks who entertained him. The translation which accom-
panies this text and the two following is that of Bohn's ' Early Travels
in Palestine,' which is more tensely worded than the Latin.

' Arculfus, sanctus episcopus,gcnte Gallus,
diversorum longe remotorum peritus locorum,
in Hierosolymitana civitate per menses no-
vem hospitatus, et locis quotidianis visita-
tionibus peragratis.

Mxnia ccrnantur cujus in magno murorum
ambitu octoginta quatuor turres porte vero sex
visuntur : prima porta David ad occidentem
montisSion, secunda porta vallis Fullonis, tertia
porta sancti Stephani, (luarta porta Beniamin,
quinta portula, id est, parvula porta a qua
per gradus ad vallem losaphat descenditur,
sexta porta Thecuitis. Celebriores tamen ex
his sunt tres exitus portarum : unus quidem
ab occasu, alius a septentrione, tertius ab
oriente. A meridie autem, aquilonale mon-
tis Sion sui)ercilium supereminct civitati, et
pars murorum cum interpositis turribus nullas
habere portas comprobatur, id est, a supra
scripta David porta usque ad cam mentis
Sion frontem, que prerupta rupe orientalem
respicit plagam.

Situs quijjpe ipsius urbis, a supercilio aqui-
lonali montis Sion incipicns, ita est molli divo
dispositus usque ad humiliora aquilonalium
orientaliumque loco murorum, ut pluvia ibi
decidens nequaquam stet, sed instar fluvio-
rum per orientales defluens portas, cunctis
secum platearum fordibus raptis, in valle
losaphat torrentcm Cedron augeat.

' Diversarum gentium undique prope in-
numera multitudo quindccimo die mensis

' .\rculf, the holy bishop, a native of Gaul,
after visiting many remote countries, resided
nine months at Jerusalem, and made daily
visits to the surrounding districts. . . .

' He counted in the circuit of the walls of
the holy city eighty-four towers and six gates,
the latter being distributed in the following
order : the Gate of David on the west of
Mount Sion, the Gate of the Valley of the
Fuller, St. Stephen's Gate, Benjamin's Gate,
the little gate leading by a flight of steps to
the valley of Jehoshaphat, and the gate
called Tecuitis ; of which, the three most
frequented are, one to the west, another to
the north, and a third to the east. That part
of the wall which, with its towers, extends
from the Gate of David over the northern
brow of Mount Sion, which overlooks the
city from the south, to the precipitous brow
of the same mountain which looks to the
east, has no gates.

' The city itself begins from the northern
brow of Mount Sion, and declines with a
gentle slope towards the walls on the north
and east, where it is lower ; so that the rain
which falls on the city runs in streams through
the eastern gates, carrying with it all the filth
of the streets into the brook Cedron, in the
valley of Jehoshaphat.

'On the 15th September, annually, an
immense multitude of people of different

JERUSALEM.

septembris anniversario more Hierosolymis
convenire solet ad commercia mutuis vendi-
tionibus et emptionibus peragenda. Unde
fieri necesse est, ut per aliquot dies in eadem
hospita civitate diversorum hospitentur turbe
populorum, quorum plurima camelorum et
equorum asinorumquc numerositas, mulorum
necnon et bourn masculorum, diversarum
vectarum rerum per illas politanas plateas
stercorum abominationes propriorum passim
sternit : quorum nidor non mediocriter civi-
bus invehit molestiam, que et ambulandi
impeditionem prebit. Mirum dictu, post
diem supra memoratum recessionis cum di-
versis turmarum iumeiitis, nocte subsequente,
immensa pluviarum copia de nubibus effusa
super eandem descendit civitatem, que totas
abluit abominabiles de plateis sordes ablu-
tamque ab inmunditiis fieri facit earn.

' Ceterum in illo famoso loco, ubi quon-
dam templum magnifice constructum fuerat,
in vicinia muri ab oriente locatum, nunc
Saraceni quadrangulam orationis domum,
quam subrectis tabulis et magnis trabibus
super quasdam ruinarum reliquias con-
struentes, vili fabricati sunt opere, ipsi fre-
quentant : que utique domus tria hominum
millia simul, ut fertur, capere potest.

' Arculfus itaque de ipsius civitatis habi-
taculis a nobis interrogatus respondens, ait :
Memini me et vidisse et frequentasse multa
euisdem civitatis edificia, plurimasque domos
grandes, lapideas, per totam magnam civi-
tatem.

'Que utique valde grandis ecclesia, tota
lapidea, mira rotunditate ex omni parte collo-
cata est, a fundamcntis in tribus consurgens
parietibus, qulbus unum culmen in altum
elevatur, inter unumquemque parietem et
alterum latum habens spatium vie ; tria
quoque altaria sunt in tribus locis parietis
medii artifice fabricatis. Hanc rotundam et
summam ecclesiam supra memorata haben-
tem altaria, unum ad meridiem respiciens,
alterum ad aquilonem, tertium versus occa-
sum, duodecim mire magnitudinis lapidce

nations are used to meet in Jerusalem for the
purpose of commerce, and the streets are so
clogged with the dung of camels, horses,
mules, and oxen, that they become almost im-
passable, and the smell would be a nuisance
to the whole town. But, by a miraculous
providence, which exhibits God's peculiar
attachment to this place, no sooner has the
multitude left Jerusalem than a heavy fall of
rain begins on the night following, and ceases
only when the city has been perfectly cleansed.

'On the spot where the Temple once
stood, near the eastern wall, the Saracens
have now erected a square house of prayer,
in a rough manner, by raising beams and
planks upon some remains of old ruins ; this
is their place of worship, and it is said that it
will hold about three thousand men.

'Arculf also observed many large and
handsome houses of stone in all parts of the
city.

' The church of the Holy Sepulchre is
very large and round, encompassed with three
walls, with a broad space between each, and
containing three altars of wonderful workman-
ship, in the middle wall, at three different
points ; on the south, the north, and the west.
It is supported by twelve stone columns of
extraordinary magnitude ; and it has eight
doors or entrances through the three opposite
walls, four fronting the north-east, and four
to the south-east.

THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

sustentant columnc. Hcc bis quaternales
portas habct, hoc est quatuor introitus, per
trcs e regione, intcrjcctis vianim sjiatiis,
stabilitos parietcs, ex quibiis quatuor exitus
ad vulturnum spectant, qui et cccias dicitur
vcntus, alii vero quatuor ad curum
rcspiciunt.

' In medio spatio hujus interioris rotunde
domus rotundum incst in una eademque
pctra excisum tugurium, in quo possunt tcr
terni homines stantes orare, et a vertice
alicuius non brevis stature stantis hominis
usque ad illius domuncule cameram pes et
semipcs mensura in altum extcnditur. Hujus
tugurioli introitus ad orientem respicit, quod
totum extrinsecus electo tegitur marmore,
cuius cxterius summum cuhnen auro ornatum
auream non parvam sustentat crucem. In
hujus tugurii aquilonali parte sepulcrum Do-
mini in eadcm petra interius excisum habetur,
sed eiusdem tugurii pavimentum humilius
est loco sepulcri ; nam a pavimento ejus
usque ad sepulcri marginem lateris quasi
trium mensura altitudinis palmorum habcri
dignoscitur. Sic mihi Arculfus, qui sepe
sepulcrum Domini frequentabat, indubitanter
emensus pronunciavit.

' Do illo supra memorato lapide, qui
ad ostium monumenti dominici, in duas
divisum partes refcrt, cuius pars minor, fer-
ramentis dolata, quadratum altare in rotunda
supra dcscripta ecclcsia ante ostium sepe
illius memorati tugurii, hoc est dominici
monumenti, stans constitutum cernitur.
Major vero illius lapidis pars, eque cir-
cumdolata, in oriental! ejusdem ecclesie loco,
quadrangulum aliad altare, sub linteaminibus
stabilitum exstat.

' Totum simplex, a vertice usque ad
plantas Icctum unius hominis capacem super
dorsum jacenlis prcbens, in niodum spelunce
introitum a latere habens adaustralem monu-
menti partem e regione respicientem. In
quo utique sepulcro duodene lampades, juxta
numerum duodecim apostolorum, semper
die ac nocte ardentes lucent, ex quibus

' In the middle space of the inner
circle is a round grotto cut in the solid
rock, the interior of which is large enough
to allow nine men to pray, standing, and
the roof of which is about a foot and a
half higher than a man of ordinary stature.
The entrance is from the cast side, and the
whole of the exterior is covered with choice
marble to the very top of the roof, which is
adorned with gold, and supports a large
golden cross, ^\'ithin, on the north side, is
the tomb of our Lord, hewn out of the same
rock, 7 feet in length, and rising 3 palms
above the floor. These measurements were
taken by Arculf with his own hand.

' The stone that was laid at the entrance
to the monument is now broken in two ; the
lesser portion standing as a square altar,
before the entrance, while the greater forms
another square altar in the east part of the
same church, covered with linen cloths.

' This tomb is broad enough to hold one
man lying on his back. The entrance is on
the south side, and there are twelve lamps
burning day and night, according to the num-
ber of the twelve Apostles ; four within at
the foot, and the other eight above, on the
right-hand side. Internally, the stone of
the rock remains in its original state, and

JERUSALEM.

quatuor in imo illius lectuli sepulcralis loco
inferius posite, alie vero bis quaternales, super
marginem ejus superius collocate ad latus
dextrum, oleo nutriente fulgent.

' Tugurium, nullo modo intrinsecus ornatu
tectum usque hodie per totam ejus cavaturam
ferramentorum ostendit vestigia, quibus dola-
tores sive excisores in eodem usi sunt opere :
color vero illius ejusdem petre monumenti
et sepulcri non unus, sad duo permixti viden-
tur, ruber itaque et albus.

' lUi rotunde ecclesie supra sepius me-
morate que et anastasis, hoc est resurrectio,
vocatur, eo quod in loco dominice resurrec-
tionis fabricata est, ad dextram coheret partem
Sancte Marie, matris Domini, quadrangulata
ecclesia. Alia vero pergrandisecclesia, orientem
versus, in illo fabricata est loco, qui hebraice
Golgotha dicitur, in cujus superioribus gran-
dis quedam erea cum lampadibus rota in
funibus pendet, infra quam magna crux ar-
gentea infixa statuta est eodem in loco, ubi
quondam lignea crux, in qua passus est
humani generis salvator, infixa stetit.

' In eadem ecclesia quedam in petra
habetur excisa spelunca infra locum dominice
Crucis, ubi super altare pro quorumdam
honoratiorum animabus sacrificium offertur,
quorum corpora interim in platea jacentia
ponuntur ante januam eiusdem ecclesie Gol-
gothanee.

' Huic ecclesie in loco Calvarie quadran-
gulate fabricate structura, lapidea ilia vicina
oriental! in parte coheret basilica magno
cultu a rege Constantino constructa, que et
martyrium appellatur, in eo, ut fertur, fabri-
cata loco, ubi Crux Domini cum aliis latronum
binis crucibus sub terra abscondita, post
ducentorum triginta trium cyclos annorum,
ipso Domino donante, reperta est.

' Itaque inter has duales ecclesias ille
famosus occurrit locus, in quo Abraham
patriarcha altare composuit, super illud im-
ponens lignorum struem, et ut Isaac immo-
laret filium suum, evaginatum arripuit
gladium : ubi nunc mensa habetur lignea

still exhibits the marks of the workman's
tools : its colour is not uniform, but
appears to be a mixture of white and
red.

' To the right of this round church (which
is called the Anastasis, or Resurrection)
adjoins the square church of the Virgin Mary,
and to the east of this another large church is
built on the spot called in Hebrew Golgotha,
from the ceiling of which hangs a brazen
wheel with lamps, beneath which a large silver
cross is fixed in the very place where stood
the wooden cross on which the Saviour of the
human race suffered.

' Under the place of our Lord's cross, a
cave is hewn in the rock, in which sacrifice is
offered on an altar for the souls of certain
honoured persons deceased, their bodies re-
maining meanwhile in the way or street be-
tween this church and the round church.

'Adjoining the church of Golgotha, to
the east, is the basilica, or church, erected
with so much magnificence by the Emperor
Constantine, and called the Martyrium, built,
it is said, in the place where the cross of our
Lord with the other two crosses were found
by divine revelation, two hundred and thirty-
three years after they had been buried.

' Between these two last - mentioned
churches is the place where Abraham raised
the altar for the sacrifice of his son Isaac,
where there is now a small wooden table, on
which the alms for the poor are offered.
Between the Anastasis, or round church, and

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

non parva, super quam pauperum eleemosyne
a populo offeruntur. Sed et hoc mihi dili-
gentius interroganli sanctus Arculfus addidit,
inquiens : Inter anastasim, hoc est sepe supra
memoratam rotundam ecclesiam, et basilicam
Constantini quedam patct plateola usque ad
ecclesiam Golgothanani, in qua videlicet die
ac nocte semper lampades ardent.

' Inter illam quoque Golgothanam basi-
Hcam et martyrium quedam inest exedra, in
qua est cahx Domini, quem a se benedictum
propria manu in cena, pridie quam pateretur,
ipse conviva apostohs tradidit convivantibus :
qui argenteus calix sextarii Gallici mensuram
habet, duasque in se ansulas ex utraque parte
altrinsecus continet compositas. In quo
utique calice inest spongia, quam Dominum
crucifigentes obtulerunt ori ejus.

' Idem Arculfus nihilominus et illam con-
spexit lanccam militis, qua latus Domini in
cruce pendentis ipse percusserat. Hec eadem
lancea in porticu iJlius Constantini basilice
inserta habetur in cruce lignea, cujus hastile
in duas scissum est partes.

' De aliqua valde summa columna, que a
locis Sanctis ad septentrionalem partem in me-
dio civitatis stans pergentibus obvia habetur,
breviter dicendum est Hec eadem columna,
in eo statuta loco, ubi mortuus juvenis. Cruce
Domini supcrposita, revixit, mirum in modum
in estivo solstitio meridiano tempore, ad cen-
trum celi sole perveniente, umbram non
facit.

' Sanctorum locorum sedulus frequentator,
sanctus Arculfus, Sancte Marie ecclesiam in
valle Josaphat frequentabat, cujus dupliciter
fabricate inferior pars sub lapideo tabulato
mirabili rotunda structura est fabricata, in
cujus orientali parte altarium habetur, ad
dcxtram vcro cius partem sancte Marie
saxcum inest sepulcrum vacuum, in quo ali-
quando requievit sepulta. Sed de eodem
scpulcro, quomodo vel quo tempore aut a
quibus personis sanctum corpusculum ejus
sit sublatum, vel in quo loco resurrectionem
exspectat, nuUus, ut fertur, pro certo scire

the Basilica of Constantine, a certain open
space extends to the Church of Golgotha, in
which are lamps burning day and night.

' In the same space between the Mar-
tyrium and the Golgotha, is a seat, in which
is the cup of our Lord, concealed in a little
shrine, which Arculf touched and kissed
through a hole in the covering. It is made
of silver, of the capacity of about a French
quart, and has two handles, one on each side.
In it also is the sponge w-hich was held up to
our Lord's mouth.

' The soldier's lance, with which he
pierced our Lord's side, which has been
broken into two pieces, is also kept in the
portico of the Martyrdom, inserted in a
wooden cross.

' He observed a lofty column in the holy
places to the north, in the middle of the
city (where the dead youth was revived, being
placed on the Lord's Cross), which, at mid-
day at the summer solstice, casts no shadow,
which shows that this is the centre of the
earth.

' Arculf next visited the holy places in the
immediate neighbourhood of Jerusalem. In
the valley of Jehoshaphat he saw the round
church of St. Mary, divided into two stories
by slabs of stone ; in the upper part are four
altars; on the eastern side below there is
another, and to the right of it an empty tomb
of stone, in which the Virgin Mary is said to
have been buried ; but who moved her body,
or when this took place, no one can say.
On entering this chamber, you see on the
right-hand side a stone inserted in the wall,
on which Christ knelt when He prayed on

JERUSALEM.

potest Hanc inferiorem rotundam Sancte
Marie ecclesiam intrantes, illam vident petram
ad dextrani parietis insertam, supra quam
Dominus in agro Gethsemane ilia nocte, qua
tradebatur a luda in manus Iiominum pec-
catorum, flexis oravit genibus ante horam
traditionis eius : in qua videlicet petra duorum
vestigia genuum eius, quasi in cera mollissima
profundius impressa, cernuntur.

' In eadem supra memorata valle, non
longe ab ecclesia Sancte Marie, turris Josa-
phat monstratur, in qua ipsius sepulcrum cer-
nitur. Cui videlicet turriculc quedam lapidea
domus a dextra coheret parte, de rupe excisa
et separata a monte Oliveti, in qua intrinsecus
ferramentis cavata duo monstrantur sepulcra
sine aliquo ornatu : quorum unum illius
Simeonis justi viri est, qui, infantulum Domi-
num Jesum in templo amplexus ambabus
manibus, de ipso prophetizavit, alterum vero
eque Joseph, sancte Marie sponsi.

' In latere montis Oliveti quedam inest
spelunca, baud procul ab ecclesia Sancte
Marie in eminentiore loco posita contra
vallem Josaphat, in qua duo profundissimi
habentur putei, quorum unus sub monte
magna profunditate descendit, alter vero in
spelunce pavimento, cujus vastissima, ut fer-
tur, cavitas, in profundum descendens, recto
tractu dirigitur : qui duo putei semper clau-
duntur. In eadem ergo spelunca quatuor
insunt lapidee mense, quarum una est, iuxta
introitum spelunce ab intus sita, Domini
nostri Jesu Christi, cui procul dubio mensule
sedes ipsius adheret : ubi cum duodecim apos-
tolis, simul ad alias mensas ibidem habitas
sedentibus, et ipse conviva aliquando recum-
bere solitus erat. Illius putei os clausum,
quem in pavimento spelunce inesse supra
scripsimus, apostolorum mensis proprius
haberi monstratur. Hujus spelunce portula
ligneo, ut refert sanctus Arculfus, concluditur
ostio, qui eandem Domini speluncam sepius
frequentavit.

' Porta David montis Sion molli clivo ab
occidentali adheret parte. Per eandem de

the night in which He was betrayed ; and
the marks of His knees are still seen in the
stone, as if it had been as soft as wax.

' In the same valley, not far from the
church of St. Mary, is shown the tower of
Jehoshaphat, in which his tomb is seen ;
adjoining to which little tower, on the right,
is a separate chamber cut out of the rock of
Mount Olivet, containing two hollow sepul-
chres, one, that of the aged Simeon the Just,
who held the child Jesus in the temple, and
prophesied of Him ; the other of Joseph, the
husband of Mary.

' On the side of Mount Olivet there is a
cave, not far from the church of St. Mary, on
an eminence looking towards the valley of
Jehoshaphat, in which are two very deep
pits. One of these extends under the moun-
tain to a vast depth ; the other is sunk straight
down from the pavement of the cavern, and
is said to be of great extent. These pits are
always closed above. In this cavern are four
stone tables ; one, near the entrance, is that
of our Lord Jesus, whose seat is attached to
it, and who, doubtless, rested Himself here
while His twelve Apostles sat at the other
tables. There is a wooden door to the cave,
which was often visited by Arculf

' After passing through the Gate of David,
which is adjacent to Mount Sion, we come to

4—2

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

a stone bridge, raised on arches, and point-
ing straight across the valley to the south ;
half-way along which, a little to the west of
it, is the spot where Judas Iscariot hanged
himself; and there is still shown a large fig-
tree, from the top of which he is said to have
suspended himself, according to the words of
the poet presbyter Juvencus —

"Informem rapuit ficus de vertice mortem."'

civitate egredientibus, portam et montem
Sion proximum ad sinistram habentibus, pons
lapideus occurrit, eminus per vallem in aus-
trum recto tramite directus, arcubus sussaltus,
ad cuius mcdietatcm ab occasu ille vicinus
habetur locus, ubi Judas Iscariothis, despera-
tione coactus, laqueo se suspendit. Ibidem
et grandis hodie adhuc monstratur ficus, de
cuius, ut fertur, vertice inlaqucatus pependit
Judas, ut Juvencus, presbyter versificus,
cecinit :

" Informem rapuit ficus de verticem ortem." '

On jMount Sion, Arculf saw a square church, which included the site
of our Lord's Supper, the place where the Holy Ghost descended upon
the Apostles, the marble column to which our Lord was bound when He
was scourged, and the spot where the Virgin Mary died. Here also was
shown the site of the martyrdom of St. Stephen (as marked on his rough
diagram). He saw on the south of Mount Sion a small field (Aceldama)
covered with a heap of stones, where the bodies of many pilgrims are
carefully buried, while others are left to rot on the surface.

' Ab Elia septentrionem versus usque ad
Samuelis civitatem, que Armathem nomina-
tur, terra petrosa et aspera per quam mon-
strantur intervalla, valles quoque spinose
usque ad Taniticam regionem patentes. Alia
vero a supra dicta Elia et monte Sion qualitas
regionum monstratur usque ad Cesaream
Palestine occasum versus ; nam quamvis
aliqua ibi sint angusta et brevia et aspera
loco interposita, precipue tamen latiores plani
monstrantur campi, interpositis olivetis,
letiores.

'Aliarum arborum genera, exceptis viti-
bus et olivis, in monte Oliveti, ut refert
Arculfus, raro reperiri possunt ; segetes vero
frumenti et hordei in eo valde lete consur-
gunt. Non enim brucosa, sed herbosa et
florida illius terre qualitas demonstratur.
Altitude autem ejus equalis esse altitudini
montis Sion videtur, quamvis mons Sion ad
montis Oliveti comparationem in geometrie
dimensionibus, latitudine videlicet et longitu-

' The ground to the north of Jerusalem,
as far as the city of Samuel, which is called
Ramatha, is at intervals rough and stony.
There are open valleys, covered with thorns,
extending all the way to the region of Tam-
nitis ; but, on the other side, from .•Elia (Jeru-
salem) and Mount Sion to Csesarea of Pales-
tine, though some narrow and craggy places
are found, yet the principal part of the way
is a level plain interspersed with olive-yards.

'Arculf states that few trees are found
on Mount Olivet, except vines and olive-
trees, but wheat and barley flourish exceed-
ingly ; the nature of the soil, which is not
adapted to trees, is favourable to grass and
flowers. The height of this hill appears to
be equal to that of Mount Sion, although
it is much more extensive in length and
breadth : the two mountains are separated
by the valley of Jehoshaphat.

JERUSALEM.

dine, parvus et angustus videatur. Inter hos
duos montes vallis Josaphath, de qua superius
dictum est, media interjacet a septentrionali
plaga in australem porrecta partem.

' In toto monte Oliveti nuUus locus altior
esse videtur illo, de quo Dominus ad celos
ascendisse traditur, ubi grandis ecclesia stat
rotunda, ternas per circuitum cameratas
habens porticus desuper tectas : cujus ecclesia
interior domus, sine tecto et sine camera,
ad celum sub aere nudo aperta patet, in cuius
orientali parte altare sub angusto protectum
tecto exstat. Ideo itaque interior ilia domus
cameram non habet, ut de illo loco, in quo
postremuni divina cernuntur vestigia, cum in
celum Dominus in nube sublevatus est, via
semper aperta sit, et oculis exorantium ad
celum patat.

' Nam cum hec, de qua nunc pauca com-
memoravi, basilica fabricaretur, idem locus
vestigiorum Domini, ut alibi scriptum reper-
tum est, continuari operimento cum reliqua
statorum parte non potuit. Siquidem que-
cumque adplicabantur, insolens terra humana
suscipere respuens, in ora adponentium rejecit.
Qain etiam a Domino concalcati pulveris
adeo perenne documentum est, ut vestigia
cernantur impressa, et cum quotidie con-
fluentium fides a Domino calcata diripiat,
damnum tamen area non sentit, et eandem
adhuc sui speciem, veluti impressis signata
vestigiis, terra custodit.'

' On the highest point of Mount Olivet,
where our Lord ascended into heaven, is a
large round church, having around it three
vaulted porticoes. The inner apartment is
not vaulted and covered, because of the
passage of our Lord's body ; but it has an
altar on the east side, covered with a narrow
roof On the ground, in the midst of it, are
to be seen the last prints in the dust of our
Lord's feet, and the roof appears open above,
where He ascended ; and although the earth
is daily carried away by believers, yet still it
remains as before, and retains the same im-
pression of the feet.

Saint Willibald, who follows, was a traveller about the year 722 a.d.

' Et inde venit ad Jerusalem in ilium
locum, ubi inventa fuerat sancta crux Domini.
Ibi est nunc ecclesia in illo loco, qui dicitur
Calvarife locus. Et heec fuit prius extra
Jerusalem ; sed Helena, quando invenit cru-
cem, collocavit ilium locum intus intra Jeru-
salem. Et ibi stant nunc tres cruces lignese
forisin orientali plagaecclesise, secusparietem,
ad memoriam sanctte crucis dominicae et
aliorum, qui cum eo crucifixi erant. lite
non sunt nunc in ecclesia, sed foris stant sub

' On his arrival at Jerusalem, he first
visited the spot where the holy cross was
found, where there is now a church which
is called the Place of Calvary, and which was
formerly outside of Jerusalem ; but when St.
Helena found the cross, the place was taken
into the circuit of the city. Three wooden
crosses stand in this place, on the outside of
the wall of the church, in memory of our
Lord's cross and of those of the other persons
crucified at the same time. They are without

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

tecto extra ecclcsiam. Et ibi sccus est illc
hortus, in quo crat scpulcbrum salvatoris.
Illud sepulchrum fuerat in petra excisum, et
ilia pctra stat super terram, et est quadrans in
imo ct in summo subtilis. Et stat nunc in
summitate illius scpukbri crux, ct ibi supra
nunc redificata est mirabilis domus, et in
orientali plaga in ilia petra sepulchri est
ostium factum, per quod intrant homines in
sepulchrum orare. Et ibi est intus lectus,
ubi corpus Domini jaccbat. Et ibi stant in
Iccto quindecim cratera; aurea; cum oleo ar-
dentes die noctuquc. Ille lectus, in quo
corpus Domini jacebat, slat in latere aquilo-
nis intus in pctra sepulchri, et homini est in
dextra manu, quando intrat in sepulchrum
orare. Et ibi ante januam sepulchri jacct
ille lapis magnus quadrans in similitudine
prions lapidis, quem angelus revolvit ab ostio
monumenti.

' Et illuc veniebat in festivitate sancti
Martini episcopus noster. Et cito ut illuc
venit, ccepit a^grotare, et jacebat infirmus,
usque una hebdomada erat ante natalem
Domini. Et tunc quando aliquid recreatus
fuit et de infirmitate melius habebat, surgit
ct abiit ad illam ecclcsiam, quae vocatur
sancta Sion. Ilia stat in medio Jerusalem.
Illic orabat, et inde ibat in porticum Salo-
monis. Ibi est piscina, et illic jacent infirmi,
exspectantes motionem aquse, quando angelus
veniret et moveret aquam, et tunc, qui pri-
mum in illam descenderet, sanaretur : ubi
Dominus dixit paralytico : " Surge, tolle gra-
batum tuum et ambulla."

' Sancta Maria in illo loco in medio Jeru-
salem exivit de sseculo, qui nominatur sancta
Sion. Et tunc apostoli undecim portaverunt
illam, sicut prius dixi, et tunc angcli venientes
tulerunt illam de manibus apostolorum et por-
taverunt in paradisum.

' Et inde descendens episcopus Willi-
baldus venit ad vallem Josaphat. Ilia stat
juxta Jerusalem civitatem in orientali plaga.
Et in ilia valle est ecclesia sancta: Maria:, et
in ecclesia est sepulchrum ejus non dc eo,

the church, but under a roof. And near at
hand is the garden in which was the Sepulchre
of our Saviour, which was cut in the rock.
That rock is now above ground, sfjuare at the
bottom, but tapering above, with a cross on
the summit. And over it there is now built
a wonderful edifice. And on the east side of
the Rock of the Sepulchre there is a door, by
which men enter the Sepulchre to pray. And
there is a bed within, on which our Lord's
body lay ; and on the bed stand fifteen
golden cups with oil burning day and night.
The bed on which our Lord's body rested
stands within the Rock of the Sepulchre on
the north side, to the right of a man entering
the Sepulchre to pray. And before the door
of the Sepulchre lies a great square stone, in
the likeness of the former stone which the
angel rolled from the mouth of the monu-
ment.

' Our bishop arrived here on the feast of
St. Martin, and was suddenly seized with
sickness, and lay sick until the week before
the Nativity of our Lord. And then, being
a little recovered, he rose and went to the
church called St. Sion, which is in the
middle of Jerusalem, and, after performing
his devotions, he went to the porch of
Solomon, where is the pool where the infirm
wait for the motion of the water, when the
angel comes to move it ; and then he who
first enters it is healed. Here our Lord said
to the paralytic, " Rise, take up thy bed, and
walk !"

' St. Mary expired in the middle of Jeru-
salem, in the place called St. Sion ; and as
the twelve Apostles were carrying her body,
the angels came and took her from their
hands and carried her to Paradise.

' Bishop Willibald ne.xt descended to the
valley of Jehoshaphat, which is close to the
city of Jerusalem, on the east side. And in
that valley is the Church of St. Mary, which
contains her sepulchre, not because her body

JERUSALEM.

quod corpus ejus ibi requiescat, sed ad me-
moriani ejus. Et ibi orans ascendit in mon-
tem Oliveti, qui est ibi juxta valleni in oricntali
plaga. Ilia vallis est inter Jerusalem et mon-
tem Oliveti. Et in monte Oliveti est nunc
ecclesia, ubi Dominus ante passionem orabat,
et dixit ad discipulos : " Vigilate et orate, ut
non intretis in tentationem." Et inde venit ad
ecclesiam in ipso monte, ubi Dominus ascen-
dit in coelum. Et in medio ecclesije stat de
aere factum sculptum ac speciosum, et est
quadrans. Illud stat in medio ecclesise, ubi
Dominus ascendit in ccelum. Et in medio
aereo est factum vitreum quandrangulum, et
ibi est in vitreo parvum cicindulum, et circa
cicindulum est illudvitreum undique clausum.
Et ideo est undique clausum, ut semper ar-
dere possit in pluvia, sed et in sole. Ilia
ecclesia est desuper patula et sine tecto, et
ibi stant duse columns intus in ecclesia con-
tra parietem aquilonis et contra parietem
meridialis plaga;. lite sunt in memoriam et
in signum duoruni virorum, qui dixerunt :
"Viri Galilsei, quid statis aspicientes in coe-
lum ?" Et ille homo, qui ibi potest inter
parietem et columnas repere, liber est a pec-
catis suis.'

rests there, but in memory of it. And having
prayed there, he ascended Mount Olivet,
which is on the east side of the valley, and
where there is now a church, where our Lord
prayed before His passion, and said to His
disciples, " Watch and pray, that ye enter
not into temptation." And thence he came
to the church on the mountain itself, where
our Lord ascended to heaven. In the middle
of the church is a square receptacle, beauti-
fully sculptured in brass, on the spot of the
Ascension, and there is on it a small lamp in
a glass case, closed on every side, that the
lamp may burn always, in rain or in fair
weather, for the church is open above, with-
out a roof; and two columns stand within
the church, against the north wall and the
south wall, in memory of the two men who
said, " Men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing
up into heaven ?" And the man who can
creep between the wall and the columns will
have remission of his sins.'

Bernard the Wise visited the city about the year 867 a.d.

' De Ramula festinavimus ad Emmaus
castellum. De Emmaus pervenimus ad sanc-
tam civitatem Jerusalem. Et recepti sumus
in hospitale gloriosissimi imperatoris Caroli,
in quo suscipiuntur omnes, qui causa devo-
tionis ilium adeunt locum lingua loquentes
romana : cui adjacet ecclesia in honore
sanctas Marije, nobilissimam habens biblio-
thecam studio prasdicti imperatoris, cum XII
mansionibus, agris, vineis et horto in valle
Josaphat. Ante ipsum hospitale est forum,
in quo unusquisque ibi negotians in anno
solvit duos aureos illi, qui illud providet.

' Intra hanc civitatem, exceptis aliis eccle-
siis quatuor eminent ecclesia mutuis sibimet
parietibus cohserentes : una videlicet ad orien-

' From Ramula we hastened to the castle
of Emmaus ; and thence we went to the holy
city of Jerusalem, where we were received in
the hostel founded there by the glorious
Emperor Charles, in which are received all
the pilgrims who speak the Roman tongue ;
to which adjoins a church in honour of St.
Mary, with a most noble hbrary, founded by
the same Emperor, with twelve mansions,
fields, vineyards, and a garden in the valley
of Jehoshaphat. In front of the hospital is
a market, for which every one trading there
pays yearly to him who provides it two aurei.

' AVithin this city, besides others, there are
four principal churches, connected with each
other by walls ; one to the east, which con-

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

tern qure habct montem Calvarire et locum,
in quo repcrta fuit crux Domini, et vocatur
basilica Constantini, alia ad meridiem, tertia
ad occidentem, in cujus medio est sepul-
chrum Domini habens IX columnas in cir-
cuitu, sui, inter quas consistunt parietes ex
optimis lapidibus : ex quibus IX columnis
IV sunt ante faciem ipsius monumenti, quae
cum suis parietihus claudunt lajjidcm coram
sepulchro positum, qucm angelus revolvit ct
super quem sedit post peratam Domini resur-
rectionem. De hoc sepulchro non est ncccsse
plura scribcre, cum dicat Beda in historia
anglorum sua sufficientia, qufe et nos possu-
nius rcferre. Hoc tamen dicendum, quod
sabbato sancto, quod est vigilia paschal, mane
officium incipitur in hac ecclesia et, post
peractum officium, Kyrie eleison canitur,
donee, veniente angelo, lumen in lampadibus
accenditur, qu£B pendent super prsedictum
sepulchrum : de quo dat patriarcha episcopis
et reliquo populo, ut illuminet sibi unus-
quisque in suis locis. Hie autem patri-
archa vocabatur Theodosius, qui ab me-
ritum devotionis a christianis est raptus de
suo monasterio, quod distat ab Jerusa-
lem XV millia, et ibi patriarcha con-
stitutus super omnes christianos, qui sunt
in terra repromissionis. Inter pr.xdictas igi-
tur I HI ecclesias est paradisus sine tecto,
cujus parietes auro radiant ; pavimentum vero
lapide sternitur pretiosissimo, habens in medio
sui confinium IIII catenarum, qua; veniunt
a prsedictis IIII ecclesiis : in quo dicitur me-
dius esse mundus.

' Est prKterea in ipsa civitate alia ecclesia
ad meridiem, in monte Sion, quje dicitur
sancti Simeonis, ubi Dominus lavit pedes
discipulorum suorum : in qua pendet spinea
corona Domini. In hac defuncta traditur
esse sancta Maria, juxta quam, versus orien-
tem, est ecclesia in honore sancti Stephani in
loco, in quo lapidatus esse asseritur. In

tains the Mount of Calvary, and the place in
which the cross of our Lord was found, and
is called the Basilica of Constantine ; another
to the south ; a third to the west, in the
middle of which is the sepulchre of our Lord,
having nine columns in its circuit, between
which are walls made of the most excellent
stones ; of which nine columns, four are in
front of the monument itself; which, with
their wallg, include the stone placed before
the sepulchre, which the angel rolled away,
and on which he sat after our Lord's resur-
rection. It is not necessary to say more of
this sepulchre, since Bede has given a full
description of it in his history.^ I must not,
however, omit to state, that on Holy Saturday,
which is the eve of Easter, the office is begun
in the morning in this church, and after it is
ended the Kyrie Eleison is chanted, until an
angel comes and lights the lamps which hang
over the aforesaid sepulchre ; of which light
the patriarch gives their shares to the bishops
and to the rest of the people, that each may
illuminate his own house. The present
patriarch is called Theodosius, and was
brought to this place on account of his piety
from his monastery, which is 15 miles from
Jerusalem, and was made patriarch over all
the Christians in the Land of Promise.
Between the aforesaid four churches is a
parvis without roof, the walls of which shine
with gold, and the pavement is laid with very
precious stone ; and in the middle four
chains, coming from each of the four
churches, join in a point which is said to
be the middle of the world.

' There is, moreover, in the city, another
church on Mount Sion, which is called the
Church of St. Simeon, where our Lord
washed the feet of His disciples, and in
which is suspended our Lord's crown of
thorns. St. Mary is said to have died in this
church. Near it, towards the east, is a church
in honour of St. Stephen, on the spot where

That is to say, Arculphus' account, which Bede inserts into his history.

JERUSALEM.

directum autem ad orientem est ecclesia in
honore sancti Petri in loco, in quo Dominum
negavit. Ad aquilonem est templum Salo-
monis, habcns S5'nagogam S'arracenorum. Ad
meridiem sunt portaa ferrece, per quas angelus
Domini eduxit Petrum de carcere, quK postea
non sunt apertce.

' Exeuntes autem de Jerusalem descendi-
mus in vallem Josaphat, quas abest a civitate
milliario, habens villam Gethsemane cum
loco nativitatis sanctte Marios, in quo est, in
honore ipsius, ecclesia sanctte Marice rotunda,
ubi est sepulchrum illius, quod, supra se non
habens tectum, minime pluvium patitur. In
ipso etiam loco est ecclesia, in quo Dominus
traditus est, habens ibi quatuor mensas ro-
tundas ccens ipsius. In valle quoque Josa-
phat est ecclesia S. Lcontii, in qua dicitur
Dominus venturus esse ad judicium.

' Inde perreximus in montem Oliveti, in
cujus declivio ostenditur locus orationis Do-
mini ad patrem. In latere autem prsedicti
montis ostenditur locus, in quo pharisxi de-
duxerunt ad Dominum mulierem in adulterio
deprehensam. Habetur ibi ecclesia in honore
sancti Johannis, in qua servatur scriptura in
lapide marmoreo, quara Dominus scripsit in
terra.

' In cacumine autem sa;pius dicti montis,
milliario uno a valle Josaphat, est locus ascen-
sionis Domini ad patrem. Habetur ibi ec-
clesia rotunda sine tecto, in cujus medio, hoc
est in loco ascensionis Domini, habetur altare
sub divo patens, in quo celebrantur sollem-
nia missarum.

'Inde transivimus ad Bethaniam, qure
est ad meridiem, distans a monte Oliveti
milliario uno, in descensu ipsius montis. In
quo est monasterium, cujus ecclesia sepul-
chrum monstrat Lazari : juxta quod est pis-
cina ad aquilonem in qua jussu Domini lavit
se ipse Lazarus resuscitatus, qui dicitur postea
exstitisse episcopus in Epheso XL annis. In

he is believed to have been stoned. And,
indirectly to the east, is a church in honour
of St. Peter, in the place where he denied our
Lord. To the north is the Temple of Solo-
mon, having a synagogue of the Saracens.
To the south of it are the iron gates through
which the angel of the Lord led Peter out
of prison, and which were never opened
afterwards.

' Leaving Jerusalem, we descended into
the valley of Jehoshaphat, which is a mile
from the city, containing the village of Geth-
semane, with the place of the nativity of St.
Mary. In it is a round church of St. Mary,
containing her sepulchre, on which the rain
never falls, although there is no roof above
it. There is also a church on the sjiot where
our Lord was betrayed, containing the four
round tables of His supper. In the Valley
of Jehoshaphat there is also a church of St.
Leon, in which it is said that our Lord will
come at the Last Judgment.

' Thence we went to Mount Olivet, on
the declivity of which is shown the place of
our Lord's prayer to the Father. On the
side of the same mountain is shown the place
where the Pharisees brought to our Lord the
woman taken in adultery, where there is a
church in honour of St. John, in which is
preserved the writing in marble which our
Lord wrote on the ground.

' At the summit of the mountain, a mile
from the valley of Jehoshaphat, is tlie place
of our Lord's ascension, in the middle of
which, on the spot from which He ascended,
is an altar open to the sky, on which mass is
celebrated.

' Thence we proceeded to Bethany, which
is to the south, on the ascent of the moun-
tain, I mile from the top ; there is here a
monastery, with a church containing the
sepulchre of Lazarus ; near which, to the
north, is a pool in which, by our Lord's com-
mand, Lazarus washed himself after he had
been raised from the dead ; and he is said

34 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

descensu etiam dc monte Oliveti ad occi- to have been subsequently bishop in Ephesus
dentalem plagam ostenditur marmor, de quo forty years. On the western declivity of
descendit Dominus super pullum asinae. Mount Olivet is shown the marble from
Inter hoec ad meridiem, in valle Josaphat, est which the Lord descended on the foal of an
natatoria Siloe. ass. Between these, to the south, in the

valley of Jehoshaphat, is the pool of Siloah.'

The original Latin of Scewulf need not be given, as his description,
though interesting, is not so important as those which precede. His date

is I I02 A.D.

' The entrance to the city of Jerusalem is from the west, under the citadel of King David,
by the gate which is called the Gate of David. The first place to be visited is the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre, which is called the Martyrium, not only because the streets lead most
directly to it, but because it is more celebrated than all the other churches ; and that rightly
and justly, for all the things which were foretold and forewritten by the holy prophets of our
Saviour Jesus Christ were there actually fulfilled. The church itself was royally and magni-
ficently built, after the discovery of our Lord's cross, by the Archbishop \Laximus, with the
patronage of the Emperor Constantine, and his mother Helena. In the middle of this church
is our Lord's Sepulchre, surrounded by a very strong wall and roof, lest the rain should fall
upon the Holy Sepulchre, for the church above is open to the sky. This church is situated,
like the city, on the declivity of Mount Sion. The Roman Emperors Titus and Vespasian, to
revenge our Lord, entirely destroyed the city of Jerusalem, that our Lord's prophecy might
be fulfilled, which, as He approached Jerusalem, seeing the city. He pronounced, weeping
over it, " If thou hadst known, even thou, for the day shall come upon thee, that thine
enemies shall cast a trench about thee, and compass thee round, and keep thee in on every
side, and shall lay thee even with the ground, and thy children with thee ; and they shall not
leave in thee one stone upon another." We know that our Lord suffered without the gate.
But the Emperor Hadrian, who was called Julius, rebuilt the city of Jerusalem, and the
Temple of the Lord, and added to the city as far as the Tower of David, which was pre-
viously a considerable distance from the city, for any one may see from the Mount of Olivet
where the extreme western walls of the city stood originally, and how much it is since
increased. And the Emperor called the city after his own name, /Elia, which is interpreted
the House of God. Some, however, say that the city was rebuilt by the Emperor Justinian,
and also the Temple of the Lord as it is now ; but they say that according to supposition,
and not according to truth. For the Assyrians, whose fathers dwelt in that country from the
first persecution, say that the city was taken and destroyed many times after our Lord's
Passion, along with all the churches, but not entirely defaced.

' In the court of the Church of our Lord's Sepulchre are seen some very holy places,
namely, the prison in which our Lord Jesus Christ was confined after He was betrayed,
according to the testimony of the Assyrians ; then, a little above, appears the place where the
holy cross and the other crosses were found, where afterwards a large church was built in
honour of Queen Helena, but which has since been utterly destroyed by the Pagans ; and
below, not far from the prison, stands the marble column to which our Lord Jesus Christ was
bound in the common hall, and scourged with most cruel stripes. Near this is the spot

JER USALEM. 35

where our Lord was stripped of His garments by the soldiers ; and next, the place where He
was clad in a purple vest by the soldiers, and crowned with the crown of thorns, and they
cast lots for His garments. Next we ascend Mount Calvary, where the patriarch Abraham
raised an altar, and prepared, by God's command, to sacrifice his own son ; there afterwards
the Son of God, whom He prefigured, was offered up as a sacrifice to God the Father for the
redemption of the world. The rock of that mountain remains a witness of our Lord's passion,
being much cracked near the fosse in which our Lord's cross was fixed, because it could not
suffer the death of its Maker without splitting, as we read in the Passion, " and the rocks
rent." Below is the place called Golgotha, where Adam is said to have been raised to life by
the blood of our Lord which fell upon him, as is said in the Passion, " And many bodies of
the saints which slept arose." But in the Sentences of St. Augustine, we read that he was
buried in Hebron, where also the three patriarchs were afterwards buried with their wives :
Abraham with Sarah, Isaac with Rebecca, and Jacob with Leah ; as well as the bones of
Joseph, which the children of Israel carried with them from Egypt. Near the place of Calvary
is the Church of St. Mary, on the spot where the body of our Lord, after having been taken
down from the cross, was anointed before it was buried, and wrapped in a linen cloth or
shroud.

' At the head of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in the wall outside, not far from the
place of Calvary, is the place called Compas, which our Lord Jesus Christ Himself signified
and measured with His own hand as the middle of the world, according to the words of the
Psalmist, " For God is my king of old, working salvation in the midst of the earth." But
some say that this is the place where our Lord Jesus Christ first appeared to Mary Magdalene,
while she sought Him weeping, and thought He had been a gardener, as is related in the
Gospel. These most holy places of prayer are contained in the court of our Lord's Sepul-
chre, on the east side. In the sides of the church itself are attached, on one side and the
other, two most beautiful chapels in honour of St. Mary and St. John, as they, participating
in our Lord's sufferings, stationed themselves beside Him here and there. On the west wall
of the chapel of St. Mary is seen the picture of our Lord's Mother, painted externally, who
once, by speaking wonderfully through the Holy Spirit, in the form in which she is here
painted, comforted Mary the Egyptian, when she repented with her whole heart, and sought
the help of the Mother of our Lord, as we read in her life. On the other side of the Church
of St. John is a very fair monastery of the Holy Trinity, in which is the place of the baptistery,
to which adjoins the Chapel of St. John the Apostle, who first filled the pontifical see at
Jerusalem. These are all so composed and arranged, that any one standing in the furthest
church may clearly perceive the five churches from door to door.

' Without the gate of the Holy Sepulchre, to the south, is the Church of St. Mary, called
the Latin, because the monks there perform divine service in the Latin tongue ; and the
Assyrians say that the blessed Mother of our Lord, at the crucifixion of her Son, stood on the
spot now occupied by the altar of this church. Adjoining to this church is another Church of
St. Mary, called the Little, occupied by nuns who serve devoutly the Virgin and her Son.
Near which is the Hospital, where is a celebrated monastery founded in honour of St. John
the Baptist.

' We descend from our Lord's Sepulchre, about the distance of two arbalist-shots, to the
Temple of the Lord, which is to the east of the Holy Sepulchre, the court of which is of
great length and breadth, having many gates ; but the principal gate, which is in front of the
Temple, is called the Beautiful, on account of its elaborate workmanship and variety of

5—2

36 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

colours, and is the spot where Peter healed Claudius, when he and John went up into the
Temple at the ninth hour of prayer, as we read in the Acts of the Apostles. The place where
Solomon built the Temple was called anciently Bethel ; whither Jacob repaired by God's
command, and where he dwelt, and saw the ladder whose summit touched heaven, and the
angels ascending and descending, and said, " Truly this place is holy," as we read in Genesis.
There he raised a stone as a memorial, and constructed an altar, and poured oil upon it ; and
in the same place afterwards, by God's will, Solomon built a temple to the Lord of magnificent
and incomparable work, and decorated it wonderfully with every ornament, as we read in the
Book of Kings. It exceeded all the mountains around in height, and all walls and buildings
in brilliancy and glory. In the middle of which temple is seen a high and large rock,
hollowed beneath, in which was the Holy of Holies. In this place Solomon placed the Ark
of the Covenant, having the Manna and the Rod of Aaron, which flourished and budded
there and produced almonds, and the two Tables of the Testament : here our Lord Jesus
Christ, wearied with the insolence of the Jews, was accustomed to repose ; here was the place
of confession, where His disciples confessed themselves to Him; here the Angel Gabriel
appeared to Zacharias, saying, " Thou shalt receive a child in thy old age ;" here Zacharias,
the son of Barachias, was slain between the temple and the altar ; here the child Jesus was
circumcised on the eighth day, and named Jesus, which is interpreted Saviour ; here the Lord
Jesus was offered by His parents, with the Virgin Mary, on the day of her purification, and
received by the aged Simeon ; here, also, when Jesus was twelve years of age, He was found
sitting in the midst of the doctors, hearing and interrogating them, as we read in the Gospel ;
here afterwards He cast out the o.xen, and sheep, and pigeons, saying, " My house shall be a
house of prayer ;" and here He said to the Jews, " Destroy this temple, and in three days I
will raise it up." There still are seen in the rock the footsteps of our Lord, when He concealed
Himself, and went out from the Temple, as we read in the Gospel, lest the Jews should throw
at Him the stones they carried. Thither the woman taken in adultery was brought before
Jesus by the Jews, that they might find some accusation against Him. There is the gate of
the city on the eastern side of the Temple, which is called the Golden, where Joachim, the
father of the Blessed Mary, by order of the Angel of the Lord, met his wife Anne. By the
same gate the Lord Jesus, coming from Bethany on the Day of Olives, sitting on an ass,
entered the city of Jerusalem, while the children sang, " Hosanna to the Son of David." By
this gate the Emperor Heraclius entered Jerusalem, when he returned victorious from Persia
with the cross of our Lord ; but the stones first fell down and closed up the passage, so that
the gate became one mass, until humbling himself at the admonition of an angel, he descended
from his horse, and so the entrance was opened to him. In the court of the Temple of the
Lord, to the south, is the Temple of Solomon, of wonderful magnitude, on the east side of
which is an oratory containing the cradle of Christ, and His bath, and the bed of the Virgin
Mary, according to the testimony of the Assyrians.

' From the Temple of the Lord you go to the church of St. Anne, the mother of the
Blessed Mary, towards the north, where she lived with her husband, and she was there
delivered of her daughter Mary. Near it is the pool called in Hebrew Bethsaida, having five
porticoes, of which the Gospel speaks. A little above is the place where the woman was
healed by our Lord, by touching the hem of His garment, while He was surrounded by a
crowd in the street.

' From St. Anne we pass through the gate which leads to the Valley of Jehoshaphat, to
the church of St.' Mary in the same valley, where she was honourably buried by the Apostles

JERUSALEM. 37

after her death ; her sepulchre, as is just and proper, is revered with the greatest honours by
the faithful, and monks perform service there day and night. Here is the brook Cedron ;
here also is Gethsemane, where our Lord came with His disciples from Mount Sion, over the
brook Cedron, before the hour of His betrayal ; there is a certain oratory wliere He dis-
missed Peter, James, and John, saying, " Tarry ye here, and watch with me ;" and going
forward, He fell on His face and prayed, and came to His disciples, and found them sleeping:
the places are still visible where the disciples slept, ai)art from each other. Gethsemane is at
the foot of Mount Olivet, and the brook Cedron below, between Mount Sion and Mount
Olivet, as it were the division of the mountains ; and the low ground between the mountains
is the Valley of Jehoshaphat. A little above, in Mount Olivet, is an oratory in the place
where our Lord prayed, as we read in the Passion, " And He was withdrawn from them
about a stone's cast, and being in an agony, He prayed more earnestly, and His sweat was
as it were great drops of blood falling down to the ground." Next we come to Aceldama,
the field bought with the price of the Lord, also at the foot of Mount Olivet, near a valley
about three or four arbalist-shots to the south of Gethsemane, where are seen innumerable
monuments. That field is near the sepulchres of the holy fathers Simeon the Just and
Joseph the foster-father of our Lord. These two sepulchres are ancient structures, in the
manner of towers, cut into the foot of the mountain itself We next descend, by Aceldama,
to the fountain which is called the Pool of Siloah, where, by our Lord's command, the man
born blind washed his eyes, after the Lord had anointed them with clay and spittle.

' From the church of St. Mary before mentioned, we go up by a very steep path nearly to
the summit of Mount Olivet, towards the east, to the place whence our Lord ascended to
heaven in the sight of His disciples. The place is surrounded by a little tower, and honourably
adorned, with an altar raised on the spot within, and also surrounded on all sides with a wall.
On the spot where the apostles stood with His mother, wondering at His ascension, is an
altar of St. Mary ; there the two men in white garments stood by them saying, " Ye men of
Galilee, why stand ye gazing into heaven ?" About a stone's throw from that place is the
spot where, according to the Assyrians, our Lord wrote the Lord's prayer in Hebrew, with
His own fingers, on marble ; and there a very beautiful church was built, but it has since
been entirely destroyed by the Pagans, as are all the churches outside the walls, except the
church of the Holy Ghost on Mount Sion, about an arrow-shot from the wall to the north,
where the Apostles received the promise of the Father, namely, the Paraclete Spirit, on the
day of Pentecost ; there they made the Creed. In that church is a chapel in the place where
the Blessed Mary died. On the other side of the church is the chapel where our Lord Jesus
Christ first appeared to the Apostles after His resurrection, and it is called Galilee, as He said
to the Apostles, " After I am risen again, I will go before you unto Galilee." That place was
called Gahlee, because the Apostles, who were called Galileans, frequently rested there.

' In the Galilee of Mount Sion, where the Apostles were concealed in an inner chamber,
with closed doors, for fear of the Jews, Jesus stood in the middle of them and said, "Peace
be unto you ;" and He again appeared there when Thomas put his finger into His side and
into the place of the nails. There He supped with His disciples before the Passion, and
washed their feet ; and the marble table is still preserved there on which He supped. There
the relics of St. Stephen, Nicodemus, Gamaliel, and Abido, were honourably deposited by St.
John the Patriarch after they were found. The stoning of St. Stephen took place about two
or three arbalist-shots without the wall, to the north, where a very handsome church was
built, which has been entirely destroyed by the Pagans. The church of the Holy Cross,

38 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

about a mile to the west of Jerusalem, in the place where the holy cross was cut out, and
which was also a very handsome one, has been similarly laid waste by the Pagans ; but the
destruction here fell chiefly on the surrounding buildings and the cells of the monks, the
church itself not having suffered so much. Under the wall of the city, outside, on the
declivity of Mount Sion, is the church of St. Peter, which is called the Gallican, where, after
having denied his Lord, he hid himself in a very deep crypt, as may still be seen there, and
there wept bitterly for his offence.'

The great Cufic inscription which runs just beneath the ceiling round
the outer arcade of the Dome of the Rock gives the date of the erection
of that beautiful building. The name of the founder has been replaced
by that of a later Khalif (el Mamun) ; but the forger forgot to alter the
date, and the darker shade of blue in the ground colour betrays the
alteration. The text at present reads thus :

dilL j^ix£ ^\\\ -> ■ ^ nmlL ^ -^ o ^

CILq ^iil L Ll£U J.&^4JL1II ^ JJjJuL

which being translated means :

' Built this dome the servant of God, 'Abd (Allah the Imam Mamun), Emir of the faithful,
in the year two and seventy. May God be pleased thereby, and be gracious unto liiui.
Amen.'

The Khalif el Mamun reigned in the ninth century (813-833 .\.i).), and
made certain additions to the Dome of the Rock. The Khalif who was
reigning in the year 72 of the Hejirah was 'Abd el Melek. The beginning
of his name was left untouched, but the words within brackets were
changed. It is to 'Abd el Melek, the fourth of the early Ommiyah
Khalifs, that Arab writers attribute the erection of the building, giving
the same date mentioned in the inscription, 72 a.h., or 688 .^i.D.

The same Arab authorities also state that the Dome of the Chain was
the original model of the Dome of the Rock. Captain Conder has pointed
out that the proportions of the smaller monument are reproduced by the
larger, if we except the present exterior octagonal wall, the roof and
doors of which bear dates of the ninth and tenth centuries. If this view

JERUSALEM. 39

be accepted, it would appear that the Dome of the Rock, as originally con-
structed by 'Abd el Melek Ibn Merwan, consisted of a central drum
supported on columns and piers and crowned by a dome, with an outer
arcade supporting a sloping roof. The building, like the Dome of the
Chain, would have been open at the sides, and the outer walls, which
quite spoil the proportions of the structure, would not have been added
until the time of el Mamun.

Various alterations were made by the same Khalif 'Abd el Melek in
the Aksa Mosque, which was the new name given to Justinian's Basilica
of St. Mary. And according to the Arab historian Jelal ed Din, el Mahdi
in the eighth century (775-7S1 a.d.) decreased the length of the Basilica
and widened it. The restorations of the Dome of the Rock effected by
el Mamun are twice recorded above each door, with the date 831 a.d.
(216 A.H.) ; and a beam above the outer octagonal wall has been found
bearing a date equivalent to 913 a.d.

William of Tyre specially alludes to these mosaic inscriptions as being
supposed to contain the date of the building; but being unable to read
the 'Arabic idiom,' he refers them to Omar (William of Tyre, i. 2,
viii. 2).

In 1016 A.D. the Dome of the Rock was injured by earthquake, and
the present woodwork of the cupola bears the date 413 a.h. (or 1022 a.d.)
in a very fine inscription in Karmatic characters, containing the names
of Hakem, the famous Fatemite Khalif, and of his son, Abu el Hassan.
A half-effaced inscription also records the restoration of the original glass
mosaics in 1027 a.d.

We are thus brought to the next great period of building activity in
Jerusalem, when, immediately after the capture of the city on Friday,
15th July, 1099, by the first Crusading army under Godfrey de Bouillon,
the Christians at once commenced to restore the various e.xisting churches
and to build others.

The existing cathedral church of the Holy Sepulchre is mainly the
work of the Crusaders. It was commenced in 1103 a.d., and stood
uninjured until 180S, when it was pardy destroyed by fire. The main
structure is, however, still extant, and some of the mosaics described by
Theodoricus in 11 72 a.d. are yet visible on the walls. The belfry was,
however, originally some sixty feet higher than it now is. The main part

40 THE SUR VE V OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

of the rotunda, the three chapels south of it, and the corresponding
northern chapel, with the northern aisle, the chapels of Adam and
Calvary, and the subterranean chapel of Helena, are all supposed by
De Vogiie and Willis to be earlier than the Crusading period, while the
last mentioned may even belong to the time of Modestus. The choir and
presbytery, with the great eastern dome, and the apse and outer gallery
with chapels, are substantially the work of the Crusaders, as is the
southern entrance and the little exterior chapel of St. Mary the Egyptian,
and the upper porch once giving access to the Calvary chapels. The
structure at present covering the Sepulchre itself is, however, of later
date than the fire of 1808, as are the buildings on the cast side of the
southern courtyard.

Next in importance to the Cathedral of the Holy Sepulchre was the
great Hospice of the Knights of St. John, immediately to the south.
The principal buildings (which are now hidden under ddbris) were erected
about 1 130-1 140 A.D. The Church of Sancta Maria Majora, adjoining the
hospital on the east, belongs to the same period, and the remaining
buildings, the ruins of which were excavated in 1872, south of this church,
belonging to a convent, were built rather later, as is evidenced by the
architecture.

The Crusading Church of St. Anne, which was restored by the French
about i860, also belonged to the first half of the twelfth century, and stood
on the site of an older building. The large Church of St. Mary Magdalen,
in the present Moslem quarter, is mentioned in the Cartulary of the Holy
Sepulchre as early as 1160 a.d. The Armenian Church of St. James is
also mentioned by the pilgrims of the twelfth century. The Cccnaculum
church on Sion is of the same age, replacing the old Sion Church of Simeon
or Peter. A convent was erected beside it by Sancia, wife of Robert of
Sicily, in 131 3 a.d. The Franciscans continued to hold the site until
1 56 1 A.D., when it was taken from them by the Moslems. The present
Chapel of the Flagellation also represents the mediaeval Church of the
Virgin (Ubi Ouievit); and the little Church of St. James the Less,
close to the Protestant Church on Sion, is a Crusading building. The
Mosque of the Malawiyeh Derwishes, near the Damascus Gate, is a
mediaeval chapel, but its name is not known. In the same quarter, south
of the Magdalen Church, is the small Chapel of St. Peter, and the yet

JERUSALEM. \\

smaller Chapel of the Nativity of the Virgin, both evidently built in the
twelfth century. The Chapel of the Crowning with Thorns still exists
within the Turkish barracks at the north-west angle of the Haram ; and
in the present Jews' quarter there are two very interesting twelfth-century
ruins, viz. : the Hospice of St. Mary of the Germans (founded in 1 1 28 a.d.),
of which a few traces are standing above the vaulted substructures among
Jewish houses, and a little chapel, now inhabited, which may perhaps re-
present the Church of St. Thomas of the Germans. The following chapels
of the same period are not now known, viz. : St. Chariton (possibly the
present Khankah of Saladin), north of the Holy Sepulchre ; St. Gilles,
near the Mehkemeh ; St. Julian, St. Cosmo, St. John, in the Via Dolorosa ;
St. Elijah and St. Agnes, in the present Moslem quarter.

Outside the city, the Crusaders erected a new church over the Tomb of
the Virgin. This was the work of Melisinda, wife of King Fulk, and was
completed before 1 161 a.d. It still remains almost unchanged. On Olivet
stood the newly erected round Church of the Ascension (still in use), and
the Pater Noster Chapel a stone's-throw distant. The new Church of
Gethsemane is mentioned by John of Wirtzburg, and above it were the
Chapels of the Credo and of the Weeping. On Sion, east of the Coena-
culum, was the Cave and Chapel of Gallicantus, where St. Peter was
supposed to have heard the cock crow ; but this site cannot now be
identified with certainty. There was also a Chapel of St. Saviour, sup-
posed to stand on the site of the house of Caiaphas ; and south of Sion
was St. Mark, on the site now called Deir Abu Tor. North of Jerusalem
was the great inn called the Asnerie, built by the Templars, and of which
remains were discovered in 1S75. A twelfth-century church has lately
been excavated immediately north of the ruins of the Asnerie, but its
mediaeval name is unknown.

The above list, with the older Churches of St. Stephen, St. Mary
Latin, St. Mary the Little, and the old Basilica of the ' Forerunner' in
David Street, gives a total of thirty-seven churches which are known to
have existed in Jerusalem or in the vicinity of the city walls in the twelfth
century. Nor is this all that remains of the Crusading town, for wherever
the explorer walks through the Holy City he encounters mediaeval remains,
The whole of the present meat bazaar, adjoining the Hospital of St. John
on the east, is Crusading work, representing the old street of Malcuisinat;

42 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

and the walls of the street leading thence towards the Damascus Gate,
together with a fine vaulted building on the east side, are of mediaeval
masonry. The present Tower of David is the Crusading Castle of the
Pisans, which was rebuilt as soon as the city was taken by Godfrey, and
which was not destroyed when the walls of the city were demolished in
1 2 19 A.D. The so-called Kalat Jalud, in the north-west angle of the
present city, is the mediaeval Tancred's Tower (William of Tyre, viii. 5).

The w^alls of Jerusalem had only just been repaired by the Egyptians
before Godfrey's siege in 1099 a.d. They were again repaired by the
Christians in 1178 a.d., and by Saladin in 1192 a.d., but were dismantled
in 1219 by Melek el Moazzam. The foundations of these mediaeval walls
are still visible on the north-west, outside the present wall of the city.
'J"he principal addition to the water-supply during the Christian domina-
tion consisted in the construction of the present Birket es Sultan, which
was then known as Lacus Germani, and made by the Germans to water
their horses ('Citez de Jerusalem' and Cartulary of Holy Sepulchre). It
is not mentioned by any writer before 1 172 a.d., when Theodoricus speaks
of it as the Nova Cisterna. The present Bir Eyub was also rediscovered
and cleaned out in 1 184 a.d., when it began to be identified as the site of
En Rogel.

The Crusading work in the Haram enclosure remains to be mentioned.
The Dome of the Rock was known to the mediaeval Christian writers as
Templum Domini. It is described by John of Wirtzburg, Fetellus, William
of Tyre, Theodoricus, and several other writers during the period of the
Christian domination. A Chapter of Canons of the Templum Domini
was established in 11 12, and various works were executed in the interior
of the Haram between 11 15 and 11 36 a.d. (William of Tyre, viii. 13;
XV. 18). There is a remarkable statement in this author, to the effect that
for fifteen years after the entry of the Christians the Sakhrah Rock re-
mained open and visible {padiil et apcrtci). This might be thought to
refer to non-existence of the outer wall, but the gates in that wall, as we
have seen, bear the date 831 a.d. The arcade above the roof, on the top
of the outer octagon-wall, is first mentioned by John of Wirtzburg, and
has been thought possibly to be a Crusading addition ; but the masonry
of this wall is unlike mediaeval work, and has not the peculiar dressing of
the Crusading masonry. The arcade, with its double columns and round

JERUSALEM. 43

arches, is very like the work lately described by Captain Conder at
'Amman, which is supposed to be not later than the eleventh century. It
is probable that William of Tyre really refers to the casing of the Holy
Rock with marble, and not to the outer wall of the buildino-.

The pictures with which the Crusaders decorated the Dome of the
Rock were destroyed by Saladin, but three small Crusading altars still
remain — two in the cave beneath the rock (the Makams of David
and Solomon), and the third within the grille towards the south-west,
which until a few years since supported the so-called Shield of Hamzeh.
The capitals of the Mihrab, on the south side of the Dome, are also
Christian, and the heads of angels are only partially defaced by the
Moslems. The magnificent grille or high iron screen, which shuts off the
space beneath the dome from the outer arcade, is also French work oi
the twelfth century.

Mediaeval columns are built into a wall on the south side of the Platform,
and the flagstones of the Platform are covered with Crusadinof masons'
marks. An old sundial used, until a few years since, to stand on the Plat-
form south-west of the Dome of the Rock. This is mentioned by John
of Wirtzburg, Fetellus, and Theodoricus, in the twelfth century, as the
site of the original Altar of the Temple, near which Zacharias, son of
Barachias, was slain. It has now been removed, but is marked on the
Ordnance Survey Plan.

The Dome of the Chain was known to the Christians as the Chapel
of St. James, and supposed to be the site of his tomb — a tradition differing
from that noticed by Theodorus in 530 a.d., for he alludes to the
sepulchre of the Bene Hezir (already noticed), now called the Tomb of
St. James.

The Schola Virginis, a vault mentioned by Theodoricus, appears to
have been the cell of Kishan mentioned by Mejr ed Din, or possibly the
Dome of the Roll. The former was examined by Captain Conder in 1S73 ;
the latter is no long-er existent. The Porta Aurea of the Crusaders was
the present Golden Gate ; and the Porta Speciosa, on the west, was ap-
parently the present Bab es Silsileh, which is mentioned in 1564 a.d. by
the present name in a Jewish tract (Jichus ha Aboth). The first distinct
account of the so-called Stables of Solomon — the great vaults in the south-
east angle of the Haram — is that of Theodoricus, writing in 11 72 a.d.

6—2

44 rilE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

John of Wirtzburg says they would hold 2,000 horses. The holes through
which the Templars' horse-halters were passed arc still to be seen in tlic
piers of these great vaults, and the Single Gate appears to have been the
Crusading southern entrance to the stables. The Chapel of the Cradle
of Christ was called in the twelfth century Balneum Christi, and supposed
to have been in or beside the house of Simeon. The niche for a statue,
to which this tradition is attached, still lies recumbent in the little chamber
in the south-east angle of the Haram.

The Order of the Templars was created by King Godfrey, and followed
the rule of St. Augustine (William of Tyre, i.x. 8). In 1 1 18 some French
Knights were established by King Baldwin I. in the Aksa Mosque, where
he himself resided, and which is variously called Templum Salomonis and
Palatium Salomonis by the twelfth-century writers. The Order received
a rule from Pope Honorius in 1 12S a.d. On their seal they engraved the
Templum Domini, and the representation is evidently intended for the
Dome of the Rock. There were nine grand-masters resident in Jerusalem
between Hugh de Payens in 11 18 a.d. and Thierry in 1 187 a.d., when
Jerusalem was taken by Saladin.

The Templars made considerable additions and alterations to the
Aksa Mosque. On the east arm of the transept, beneath the dome, they
placed an apse, the walls of which still remain visible in ruins. On the
west they built a magnificent refectory, now known as Bukdt el
B e i d h a. The so-called Makam of Omar, east of the south aisle of the
Templars' Church, is probably an early Arab structure preceding the
Crusading work, as are the four outer aisles of the Basilica itself — pro-
bably the work of el Mahdi in the eighth century ; but the capitals of
the slender columns which flank the Mihrab in the Makam or Mosque of
Omar were found, when the plaster was removed in 1874, to be beauti-
fully carved with animal figures and scroll-work, evidently mediaeval work.
The porch of the Aksa Mosque, which is in Gothic style, is referred by
De Vogii^ to the thirteenth century.

The following are the niost valuable accounts of the city in the
twelfth century. The first is that of Theodoricus, ' De Locis Sanctis,'
dating 11 72 a.d. It is principally valuable for its detailed description of
the Crusading Cathedral of the Holy Sepulchre, and also of the Dome of
the Rock, as e.\isting during the Christian occupation :

JERUSALEM. 45

' In ipsa denique montium summa eminentia, ut Josephus atque Hieronymus attestantur,
sita est civitas ilia Jerusalem, quje universis per orbem urbibus et locis sanctior habetur et
eminentior, non quia a se vel per se sit sancta, sed quia ipsius Dei et Domini nostri Jesu
Christi ejusque pife genitricis prcesentia, et patriarcharum et prophetarum atque apostolorum,
nee non et aliorum sanctorum inhabitatione, doctrina, prsedicatione, martyrio fuerit illustrata.
Quffi licet altiora, quam ipsa sit, montium juga scilicet habeat undique imminentia, tamen ipsa,
in monte posita, in se ipsa existit coUiculosa. Unde accidit, ut ab omnibus circumpositis mon-
tibus intuentibus ipsa rapiat adspcctum. Denique inter coUem Moriam, in quo templum Domini
situm est, et montem Oliveti, qui ceteris montibus altius verticem attollit, torrens Cedron et
vallis Josaphat interjacet, quis a monte Gaudii, a quo ab aquilonari parte introitus patet in
civitatem, initium faciens et per ecclesiam beatse Marias, quae ex ipsius nomine sic appellatur,
et per sepulchrum Josaphat, regis Judreae, a cujus occisione hoc ipsa sumpsit vocabulum, nee
non et juxta natatoriam Siloe cursum dirigens, occurrente sibi alia valle, ab angulo dextro
civitatis per novas cisternas inter montem Sion et agrum Acheldemach cursum reflectente et
duo civitatis latera complectente, in profundissimam dehiscit vallem. Sepulchrum vero
Josaphat in vallis ipsius medio quadrato opere in modum pyramidis est erectum, circa quod
habitacula servitorurn Dei seu reclusorum plurima insunt, qus omnia sub cura abbatis beat?e
Mariie constituta sunt. Porrigitur autem ipsa civitas ab aquilone in meridiem per longum et
ab occidente in orientem per latum, turribus, muris et propugnaculis super valles prsedictas in
montis altitudine firmissime communita. Vallum quoque sive fossatum extrinsecus muro
appositum et propugnaculis atque minis munitum existit, quod barbicana vocant. Portas
habet septem, quarum sex singulis noctibus usque post solis ortum firmiter obserantur ;
septima vero muro conclusa nonnisi in die palmarum et in exaltatione sancta; crucis aperitur.
Et cum ipsa sit civitas oblonga, quinque habet angulos, quorum unus est transversus. Plates
ejus omnes fere magnis lapidibus inferius constructse, superius vero plurima; sunt opere lapideo
testudinata;, fenestris passim ad lumen recipiendum dispositis. Domus, in altum operosa
maceria porrectK, tecta non nostro more culminibus sublimata, sed piano schemate habent
sequalia. Ex quibus inundante pluvia in cisternis suis pluvialia stillicidia recipientes usibus
suis reservant ; nee enim aliis aquis utuntur, quas non habent. Ligna ibi sive fabricis sive
ignibus apta cara sunt, quia mons Libanus, qui solus cedrinis, cypressinis et abiegineis abundat
lignis, longe ab eis est remotus, nee eum propter gentilium insidias adire possunt.

' Turris David incomparabili firmitate ex lapidibus quadratis infinitn; magnitudinis com-
pacta, et juxta portam occidentalem, quae versus Bethleem viam dirigit, sita cum adjacente
solario et palatio noviter sedificato, fossatis et barbicanis valde munito, in proprietatem cessit
regis hierosolymitani. Sita autem est in arcu montis Sion. Unde dicitur in libro Regum :
Cepit David autem Sion. Sita est etiam e regione templi Domini, quo civitas porrigitur per
latum, habens a meridie montem Sion, ab oriente montem Oliveti. Mons autem Sion ab
ipsa turri usque ad ecclesiam beatte Marise foris muros sitam et ab ipsa ecclesia fere usque
ad palatium Salomonis et usque ad viam, qute de speciosa porta ad ipsam turrim ducit, dila-
tatur, monte quidem Oliveti latior, sed humilior. Et cum mons Moria valli Josaphat incum-
bens, in quo templum Domini et palatium Salomonis est situm, magnus collis habeatur, mons
Sion tanta fere altitudine illi superincumbit, quanta rursus ille valli Josaphat, ut supra dictum
est, supereminere videtur. In agro Acheldemach, quem ab ipso prxdicta tantum dividit
vallis, sepultura peregrinorum est, in qua ecclesia sancta; Dei genitricis et virginis Maria;
habetur, ubi etiam in die sancto palmarum quemdam fratrem nostrum dcfunctum, nomine

46 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Adolfum, de Colonia natum, scpelivimus. Ipsi autem agro mons Gion incumbit, in quo, ut
in libro Regum legitur, Salonio regium diadema suscepit.

' Dc aliis Kdifiriis communibus sive privatis nulla vcl pauca potuimus repcrire signa prmtcr
domuni Pilati juxta ecclesiam beata; Annaj, niatris domina; nostra;, et juxta piscinam pro-
baticam sitani. De omni opere ab Herode, ut Josephus refert, facto, modo plurimum
truncato, nihil occurrit nisi ununi latus, quod adhuc rcstat, palatii, quod vocabatur Antonia,
cum porta juxta atrium cxtcrius sita.

' Restat ergo, ut de locis Sanctis, propter qu^ ipsa civitas sancta vocatur, disseramus.
Unde a sancto sanctorum vel a sepulchro dominico duximus incipicndum. Ecclesia dominici
sepulchri mirifico fulgens opcre ab Helena regina constat esse fundata, cujus exterior niurus
quasi per circuli circumferentiam traductus ipsam ecclesiam facit esse rotundam. Locus
autem dominici sepulchri vicem centri in ipsa ecclesia obtinet, cujus dispositio a;dis est opus
super ipsum sepulchrum erectum et marmoreo tabulatu decenter ornatum. Non integram
circuli habet circumferentiam, sed ex ipso circulo versus orientem duo parvi parietes proce-
dentes et tertium recipientcs tria in se continent ostiola, tres in latitudine, septem in altitudine
pedes habentia, quorum unum ab aquilone, secundum ab oriente, tertium a meridie patet
Ab aquilonali intratur, a meridiano exitur, orientalc custodum sepulchri usibus vacat. Inter
haec tria ostiola et quartum, quo ad ipsum sepulchrum intratur, altare quidem parvum, sed
referendum habctur, ubi corpus dominicum, antequam sepulturae daretur, positum fuisse a
Joseph et Nicodemo narratur. Denique super os ipsius speluncoe, quod retro ipsum altare
situm est, ab eisdem per picturam musivi operis corpus Domini sepultura; mandatur, adstante
domina nostra, ejus matre, et tribus Mariis bene ex evangelio notis cum aromatum vasculis,
superscdente etiam angelo ipsi sepulchro et lapidem revolvente atcjue dicente : Ecce locum,
ubi posuerunt eum. Inter ipsum quoque foramen et ipsum sepulchrum linea per hemicyclum
in longum porrigitur hos continens versus :

' Christo surgenti
locus et custos monument!.
Angelus et vestis
fuit estque redemtio testis.

Hecc omnia niusivo opere pretiosissimo sunt depicta, quo opere tota ilia domuncula est
decorata. Utrzeque vero janua; acerrimos habent custodes, qui non minus quam sex, nee
plus quam duodecim simul intromittunt ; nee enim plures loci capit angustia. Per aliam,
postquam adoraverint, januam exire compelluntur. Ipsum autem os speluncse nonnisi
rependo cruribus quislibet valet intrare, quod pertransiens optabilem thesaurum invcnit,
sepulchrum videlicet, in quo benignissimus Dominus noster Jesus Christus triduo requievit,
pario marmore, auro et lapidibus pretiosis mirifice decoratum. Tria in latere rotunda habet
foramina, per qua: ipsi lapidi, in quo Dominus jacuit, optata peregrini porriguntur oscula,
duos et semis pedes in latitudine, cubitum virilem et pedem habens in longitudine. Planities
vero inter ipsum sepulchrum et murum posita tantum obtinet spatii, ut quinque homines
versis ad sepulchrum capitibus locum habeant geniculatim orandi. Extrinsecus igitur circa
ipsum opus decern columnse sunt dispositK, qua; sibi impositos gestantes arcus cancellatum
efficiunt circillum, cui limbus suppositus est, banc aureis litteris insculptam continens scrip-
turam : Christus resurgens ex mortuis jam non moritur. Mors illi ultra non dominabitur,
quod enim vivit, vivit Deo. Cccterum ad caput ipsius, quod ad occidentem versum fuit,

JERUSALEM. 47

altare ferreis parietibus et januis atque seris circumseptum continetur cancellis cypressinis
varia pictura decoratis et tecto ejusdem generis similiter decorato ipsis parietibus incumbente.
Tectum ipsius operis ex tabulis cupreis deauratis consistit, in medio foramine rotundo
existente, circa quod columnelire in circuitu constituta; et arculos impositos gestantes super-
positum tectum simile ciborio continent. Super tectum quoque ipsum crux dcaurata et super
crucem columba continetur similiter deaurata. Inter duas autem columnellas superius ab
arcubus, in singulis suis arcubus, singula; lampades dependent in circuitu. Similiter quoque
inter inferiores columnas per circuitum bins lampades dependent. Circa ipsos vero arcus
inferiores ipsi versus in unoquoque arcu descripti sunt, quos nequaquam propter colorum in
quibusdam abolitionem legere potuimus; nos tamen sex in tribus arcubus tantum ad planum
valuimus comprehendere :

' Venit in hunc loculum, qui condidit antea sceclum.
Ejus adis tumulum, cito fac, ut sis mihi templum.
Cernere gratum
qucm cupit agnum
concio patrum,
Ephrata natum,
Golgatha passum,
petra sepultum,
hie protoplastum
vexit ad astrum,
d^emonis astum
vicit, et ipsum
surgere lassum
dans, ait : Assum.

' Circa ferreum vero parietem ad caput, ut diximus, constitutum, cui cancelli superpositi
sunt, linea per circuitum porrigitur hos continens versus :

' Mors hie deletur
et nobis vita medetur.
Hostia grata datur,
cadit hostis, culpa lavatur.
Ccelum Isetatur,
flent tartari, lex renovatur.
Ista decent, Christe,
quia sanctus sit locus iste.

' Csterum pavimenta ipsius eccIesiK pario et vario marmore speciosissime sunt constrata.
Ipsa vero ecclesia quadratis columnis VIII, qufe vocantur pilaria, et XVI rotundis columnis
de uno lapide existentibus inferius sustentatur, superius vero, quum inferius et superius sicut
ecclesia Aquisgrani testudinata est, octo similiter pilariis et XVI columnis fulcitur. Cymatium
inferius, quod per totam ecclesiam circulariter traductum est, grrecis litteris descriptum est
per totum. Spatium vero muri, quod medio atque superno cymatio interjacet, musivo opera
incomparabili specie prajfulget, ubi in fronte chori vel supra arcum sanctuarii, eodem quidem
opere, sed antiquo, gratissimo vultu puer Jesus refulgens umbilico tenus cernitur esse de-

48 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

pictus, ad sinistrain vcro ii)sius manum mater sua, ad dextram autcm Gabriel archangclus
illam notaiii dejjromens salutationem : Ave, Maria, gratia plena, Dominus tecum, benedlcta
in mulieribus ct bencdictus fructus ventris tui. H;cc salutatio tarn latine, quam grxcc circa
ipsum Dominum Christum dcscripta est. Ulterius quoque ad dextram partem XII apostoli
per ordinem eodem operc sunt dcpicti, habentes singuli eulogias Christi mysteriis competentes
in manibus suis. In medio autem eorum Constantinus impcrator pro eo, quod una cum
matre Helena ipsius ecclesia: fundator exstitit, in fenestra mure non profunde imposita regali
munificentia trabeatus consistit. Post apostolos quoque sanclus Michael archangelus mirifice
decoratus cffulget. Sequitur ad sinistram ordo XIII prophetarum, qui omnes ad ipsum
speciosum puerum vcrsas habentes facies et prophetias olim ab ipso eis inspiratas manibus
prxferentes vencrabiliter locuti sunt. In quorum medio e regione sui filii sancta Helena
regina magnifice decorata consistit. Ipsi deindc muro tectum plumbeum cypressinis laque-
ariis sustentatum incumbit, nabens grande et rotundum in supremo foramen, per quod
immissum superne lumen totam ecclesiam perlustrat ; nee aliam aliquam fenestram habet.

' I'rffiterea sanctuarium vel sancta sanctorum, a Francis postea opere mirifico constructum,
hujus ecclesise corpori adjunctum est, qui etiam divinas in ea laudes die ac nocte delectissime
celebrant, scilicet canonicis horis prope cursum virginis Mari^ : prajmia tenentes, quorum
stipendiis media pars oblationum dominici sepulchri deputata est, altera medietas patriarchal
usibus attributa est. Principale altare nomini et honori Domini salvatoris articulatum est,
retro quod patriarchalis sedes sita est, supra quam icona dominie nostrre permaxima et reve-
rendissima, simul et icona beati Johannis Baptists;, nee non et tertia icona paranymphi sui
sancti Gabrielis ab arcubus sanctuarii dependent. In ipsa autem sanctuarii ccclatura ipse
Dominus noster Jesus Christus, in sinistra crucem ferens, dextra Adam tenens, ccelum im-
perialiter intuens, giganteo passu sinistro pede levato, dextro adhuc in terra posito, coelos
penetrat, circumstantibus his : sua scilicet matre et beato baptista Johanne et omnibus
apostolis. Sub cujus pedibus linea de muro ad murum per ipsum hemicyclum porrecta hanc
continet scripturam :

' Crucifixum in came laudate

et sepultum propter nos glorificate

resurgentemque a morte adorate.

Dchinc in linea superiore per idem hemicyclum ducta hoec continetur scriptura : Ascendens
Christus in altum captivam duxit carnem, dedit dona hominibus. Circa medium vero ipsius
chori altare cavum et parvum, sed reverendum habetur, in cujus pavimento cruciola in
rotundo circulo est impressa, hoc significans, quod Josephus et Nicodemus corpus dominicum
de cruce depositum ibi deposuerunt ad lavandum. Ante ostium vero ipsius chori altare non
mediocre habetur, quod ad Surianorum tantummodo spectat ofificium. Deniquc, peractis a
Latinis quotidie divinis officiis, Suriani vel ibidem ante chorum sive in aliqua ecclesise abside
divinos decantare solent hymnos, qui etiam plura in ipsa ecclesia habent altariola nullorumque
nisi suis usibus apta vel concessa. Hre sunt professiones sive secta;, qux in ecclesia hieroso-
lymitana divina peragunt officia, scilicet Latini, Suriani, Armenii, Gra;ci, Jacobini, Nubiani.
Hi omnes tarn in conversatione, quam in divinis officiis suas quisque habent differentias.
Jacobini in suis festis Hebrxorum more tubis utuntur.

' Moris est in ecclesia sancti sepulchri, in sabbato sancto paschse oriente sole tarn in ipsa
ecclesia, quam in cunctis aliis per civitatem constitutis ecclesiis materiale lumen e.xstinguere
et lumen coelitus venturum exspectare, ad quod lumen recipiendum una ex lampadibus

JERUSALEM. 49

argenteis, quarum ibi septem dependent, ante ipsum sepulchrum prreparatur. Totus deinde
clerus et populus in magna ct anxia exspectatione constitutus, donee Deus manum suam de
alto emittat, pr^stolantur, saspius, aliis adjunctis precibus, Deus ad juvet et sanctum sepul-
chrum alta vociferatione non sine lacrymis intonantes. Interim tam patriarcha sive alii
episcopi, qui ad susceptationem sacri ignis conveniunt, quam et alius clerus cum cruce, in
qua maxima portio ligni dominici continetur, nee non et aliis sanctorum reliquiis srepius
orandi causa visitare ipsum sepulchrum solent, lustrantes etiam, si Deus adhuc luminis sui
gratiam vasi ad hoc constituto immiseril. Solet quippe ipse ignis in certis horis et locis saepe
exhiberi. Nam aliquando circa horam primam, aliquando circa tertiam vel sextam sive
nonam horam vel etiam completorii tempore solet advenire. Aliquando quoque ad ipsum
sepulchrum, aliquando ad templum Domini, nonnunquam ad sanctum Johannem solet venire.
Ipsa vero die, qua nos pauperes cum aliis peregrinis in ipsius sancti ignis eramus exspecta-
tione, statim post hora; nona; tempus sacer ille ignis advenit, cum ecce concrepantibus eccle-
siasticis signis munia missalis officii per totam civitatem persolvebantur, baptisteriis et ceteris
officiis antea peractis. Mox vero ut sacer ille ignis advenerit, antequam aliquis suam candelam
prffiter patriarcham accendat, ad templum Domini solet repra2sentari.

' Ab occidentale fere enim parte in exitu ecclesise ipsius, quo per gradus amplius quam
XXX ad plateam ab ecclesia ascenditur, ante ipsum exitum capella in honore beatae Marice
habetur, cui praesunt Armenii. Item ad sinistram ecclesia; a septentrionale parte capella in
honore sanctffi crucis existit, ubi etiam ipsius venerabilis ligni magna portio auro et argento
inclusa tenetur, quse sub Surianorum custodia consistit. Rursus ab eadem parte juxta
ipsam capellam versus orientem summe venerabilis habetur capella, in qua altare reverendum
honori sanctce crucis articulatum et ejusdem beati ligni maxima pars auro, argento et lapidibus
pretiosis, ita ut videri apte queat, inclusa summa cum reverentia in locello speciosissimo
observatur, quod etiam salutare signum adversus paganos in bello, cum necessitas exigit,
gestare solent christiani. Hebc etiam capella musivo opere mirabiliter est decorata. Hanc
autem crucem Heraclius, romanus imperator, Cosdre, regi Persarum, bello cum eo gesto
ereptam christianis restituit. Juxta ipsam quoque capellam versus orientem ad obscuram quam-
dam capellam per XX fere gradus intratur, ubi altare itidem venerandum existit, sub cujus pavi-
mento cruciola cernitur impressa. In quo loco Dominus noster Jesus Christus reclusus
fuisse perhibetur, quando de judicio Pilati ad locum passionis diutius exspectavit, donee ei et
facies velaretur et in Calvaria crux constitueretur, ut in ea posset appendi. Item post ipsam
capellam altare in honore sancti Nicolai existit. Dehinc porta claustralis, qua in claustrum
intratur canonicorum, quod circa sanctuarium est constitutum. Post claustralis autem
ambitus circuitionem ex alia parte ecclesiam intrantibus occurrit imago crucifixi supra ipsam
claustralem portam ita depicta, ut cunctis intuentibus magnam inferat conipunctionem, circa
quam isti versus descripti sunt :

' Aspice, qui transis, qui tu mihi causa doloris.
Pro te passus ita, pro me tu noxia vita.

' Dehinc versus orientem XXX et amplius gradus ad venerabilem beatce Helenae reginas
capellam extra ipsam ecclesiam sitam descenditur, ubi in ejus honore altare venerandum
habetur. Hinc iterum ad dextram partem per XV vel paulo plus gradus in subterrancum
specum descenditur, ubi in dextro specus ipsius angulo cavum altare et sub eo crux pavimento
impressa cernitur, in quo loco ipsa regina crucem dominicam reperisse narratur : ubi altare in

50 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

honore sancti Jacobi habetur. Ipsa quoque capella nulLim habct aliam fenestram nis
magnum supcrne foramen.

' Ex alia nihiloniinus parte ecclesiaj vel in dextro retro chorum altarc decorum existit, in
quo pars magna columns, circa quam Dominus ligatus et flagellatus est, consistit. Exinde
ad meridiem ante ipsius ecclesiee januam quinque sepulchra videntur, quorum unum pretioso
opcrc factum de pario marmore et choro contiguum fratris est regis Hierosolymorum nomine
Baldewini, secundum regis Baldewini, fratris ducis Godcfridi, super quod talc scriptum est
cpitaphium :

' Rex Balduwinus alter Judas Machabxus,

Spes patria:, decus ecclesia;, virtus utriusque.

Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant"

Cedar et Aeg}'ptus, Dan ac homicida Damascus.

Proh dolor in modico clauditur hoc tumulo.

Deinde tertium sepulchrum fratris est ipsius, ducis Godcfridi, qui ipsam civitatem Hierosoly-
mam, a Saracenis invasam et Turcis, gladio et sapientia recupcravit et christianis rcstituit,
patriarcham a paganis ejectum in scde sua relocavit, clerum in ipsa ecclesia instituit, stipendia
ci, ut Deo militare valeret, ordinavit. Quartum sepulchrum patris est istius regis seu Emal-
rici ; quintum patris abbatissre sancti Lazari.

' Itcrum fere ad meridem janua paret, per quam in capellam intratur sub turri campanaria
constitutam, et ex ilia in aliam capellam reverentia plenam, honori bcati Johannis liaptistx
adscriptam transitur, in qua etiam baptisterium exstat. Et ex ipsa rursus in tertiam capellam
pervenitur. Dc prima autem gradibus XL vel plus ascenditur ad plateam.

' Restat nunc dc monte Calvaria dicere, qui sicut oculus in capite, ita ipsa in ilia resplendet
ecclesia, unde per filii Dei mortem et sanguinis effusionem lux et vita nobis proveniet seterna.
Ante ipsius ecclesiaj introitum sive januam solido rere indutam, quoe etiam duplex esse
dignoscitur, gradibus fere XV ad quoddam parvum, sed cancellatuin et picturis dccoratum
ascenditur consistorium, cujus desuper adstantes custodes et januas observantes, quantos
volunt peregrines intrare, permittunt, ne forte ex magna compressione, quce s^pius ibi solet
accidere, oppressio aliqua sive periculum mortis eveniat. De illo quoque vestibulo per aliud
ostium tribus ascenditur gradibus in capellam veneratione et reverentia cunctis sub sole locis
supereminentem, qua; quatuor fornicibus grandi robore prceditis erecta subsistit, cujus pavi-
menta omnigeno marmore egregie constrata, testudo vero sive coelatura ipsius prophetis,
David scilicet, Salomone, Isaia et quibusdam aliis, scripta passioni Christi consonantia munu
gestantibus, musivo opere in ea depictis nobilissime est adornata, ita ut illi operi nullum sub
ccelo posset aequari, si tantum clare posset viderL Nam propter circumstantes fabricas locus
idem aliquantulum obscuratur. Locus autem, ubi crux ipsa stetit, in qua salvator mortem
pertulit, versus orientem alto gradu elatus, pario et nobilissimo marmore ex sinistra parte
constratus, foramen rotundum ct adeo latum, quod caput fere posset intrudi, ostenditur, in
quo crux ipsa defixa fuisse dignoscitur : in quod peregrin! caput et faciem ob ipsius crucifixi
amorem et revcrentiam solent imprimere. Ad dextram vero ipse mons Calvaria, altius
verticem attollens, pavimento longam, latam et valde profundam rimam ex scissura, quam in
morte Christi sustinuit, demonstrat. Insuper anterius horribili foramine hiscens, sanguinem
qui de latere pendentis in cruce Christi cucurrerit, usque ad terram se emisisse testatur. In
cujus summitate peregrini cruces, quas de terris suis secum illo adduxerint, solent deponere,
quarum magnam ibi copiam vidimus, quas omnes custodes Calvaria; in sabbato ignibus solent

JERUSALEM. 51

exurere. Altare venerandum in ea habetur, et in parasceve omne diei illius officium a
patriaicha et clero ibidem pcrcclebratur. In sinistra altaris parte, in muro ipsius, crucifixi
imago mir.-e pulchritudinis est depicta, adstante ad dextram Longino cum lancea latus pun-
gente, a sinistra Stephaton cum spongia et arundine acetum offerente, adstante etiam ad
sinistram matre, ad dextram Johanne, per circuitum vero ipsius duo grandes porrigunlur-
Linete litteris gra;cis per totum descriptje. Ad dextram quoque ipsius altaris jam mortuum
Christum Nicodemus et Joseph de cruce deponunt, ubi etiam hoc est descriptum : Descensio
Domini nostri Jesu Christi de cruce. Hinc per XV gradus in ecclesiam descenditur et ad
capellam, quce Golgatha vocatur, reverendam quidem, sed obscuram pcrvenitur, retro quam
fenestra profunda exstat, quce finem scissura:, quae Calvaria illo desccnderat, intucntibus
demonstrat. In quo loco sanguis Christi, qui per scissuram illuc cucurrerat, restitisse perhi-
betur. Prseterea super arcum ipsam Golgatham concludentem vel in latere Calvariaj versus
occidentem constituto tabula quxdam in pariete depicta perspicitur, in qua hi versus aureis
litteris descripti esse videntur ;

' Est locus iste sacer, sacratus sanguine Christi.
Per nostrum sacrare sacro nihil addimus isti.
Sed domus huic sacro circumsuperjedificata
est quinta decima quintilis luce sacrata
cum reliquis patribus a Fulcherio patriarcha.

Ante fores ecclesife inter duas januas Dominus Christus reverendo habitu quasi jam a morte
resurgens consistit, ad cujus pedes Maria Magdalena prostrata, non tamen ipsos pedes
tangens, jacet, cui Dominus chirographum porrigit hos versus continens :

' Quid, mulier, ploras ?
Jamjam quern quEcris, adoras.
Me dignum recoli,
quern jam vivum tu modo tangere noli.

' Exeuntibus ecclesiam versus meridiem occurrit quasi quoddam prastorium quadrangulum,
quadratis lapidibus constructum, ad cujus sinistram partem juxta Golgatha exterius capella
trium Mariarum in honore habetur, quam Latini tenent. Ulterius quoque ad meridiem alia
capella exstat, cui prresunt Armenii. Inde ulterius parvula quredam existit capella. In exitu
vero ejusdem planitiei ad sinistram platea testudinata occurrit rebus referta venalibus. A
fronte ecclesiam ipsum forum venalium rerum se reprtesentat. In qua fronte sex columnaj
superius arcuatce consistunt, ubi ex templo versus meridiem ecclesia et hospitalc beati
Johannis Baptistee offertur. Quse quantis redificiis decorata, quantis domiciliis et lectulis
atque aliis utensiliis in usus pauperum et infirmorum atque debilium exhibendis abundans,
quam in substantia pauperum rccreationibus impendenda locuples, quam in egenorum sit
sustentatione sollicita, nuUus alteri verbis fidem posset facere, nisi ipse propriis hoc oculis
valeret deprehendere ; siquidem transeuntes per palatium numerum simul accumbentium
nullo modo quivimus discernere, lectorum vero numerum millenarium vidimus excedere.
Nee enim quisque regum vel tyrannorum prjepotens tantos, quantos ilia domus, quotidie
posset sustentare. Nee mirum. Nam prseter ea, quae in exteris possident terris, quorum non
est facile numerus comprehendi, omnes fere civitates et villas ad Judseam quondam perti-
nentes a Vespasiano et Tito destructas cum universis agris et vinetis tam ipsi, quam templarii

7—2

52 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

sibi subjugavcrunt, disposita per universam regionem militia et castris adversus pagano
valde munitis. Post hoc ad orientem stanti sequitur ccclesia beata; Marire, in qua sancti-
moniales sub abbatissa constituta; divinas quotidie celebrant laudes. Qui locus idcirco
beata; Marice dicatus esse dicitur, quia, dum salvator noster ad passionem ductus male
tractaretur, ipsius jussu in eodem loco, ccenaculo quondam, quod tunc ibidem exstitit, inclusa
fuisse pcrhibctur. Item sequitur confestim alia ecclesia ad orientem posita, qua; similiter
dominse nostra; exstat articulata, eo quod, cum Dominus noster tantum supplicium pro
nostra salute pateretur, ipsa, spasmo aflecta prie doloris magnitudine, manibus ferentium eam
illuc in subterraneum specum perlata est, ubi dolori suo satisfaciens capillos capitis sui
evellebat, qui adhuc in ipsa ecclesia in ampulla vitrea conservantur. Est etiam in ipsa eccle-
sia caput beati Pliilippi apostoli auro valde decoratum et brachium sancti Simeonis apostoli
brachiumque sancti Cypriani episcopi. Monachi in eadem ecclesia sub regula et abbatis
imperio ibidem Deo descrviunt.

'Hinc ad meridiem reflexo aliquantulum calle, per speciosam portam templi ad ipsum
templum Domini pervenitur, per mediam fere civitatem transeundo, ubi de inferiore atrio ad
superius ascenditur gradibus viginti duobus, et de superiori atrio intratur in templum. Ante
ipsos vero gradus in atrio infcriori gradibus XXV vel amplius in piscinam grandem descen-
ditur, ex qua, ut fertur, per subterraneum specum usque ad ecclesiam sancti sepulchri transitur
in tantum, quod ecclesia in sabbato sancto ignem coelitus accensum per ipsum specum ad
templum Domini deferri rcferatur. In ipsa autem piscina liosti?e ad templum Domini
dcbebant offerri ; secundum legis mandatum lavabantur. Atrium autem exterius duplum vel
pauIo plus majus est atrio intcriori, cujus, sicut exterioris, pavimenta Litis et magnis lapidibus
constrata sunt. Permanent autem adhuc duo latera atrii exterioris ; alia duo in usus ces-
serunt canonicorum et templariorum. In ipsis enim domos et hortos constituerunt. Ab
occidentali latere duobus ordinibus graduum in atrium superius ascenditur et meridiano
similiter. Super gradus autem, ante quos piscinam diximus esse sitam, quatuor columns
arcuatfe consistunt, ubi etiam sepulchrum divitis cujusdam viri, ferreis cratibus circumseptum,
ex alabastro decanter incisum consistit. Ad dextram quoque super meridianos gradus
similiter quatuor columnar existunt arcuatae, ad sinistram vero tres. Ad orientem nihilo-
minus XV duplices gradus existunt, per quos de aurea porta ascenditur in templum, secundum
quos psalmista XV composuit psalmos, super quos quoque consistunt columnas. Ad meri-
dianam prseterea plagam super duos angulos atrii interioris duae consistunt domunculse,
quarum una versus occidentem posita schola dicitur fuisse beatse Marise. Inter templum
quoque ct duo latera atrii exterioris, orientale scilicet et meridianum, lapis magnus situs est
in modum altaris, qui secundum quorundani traditiones os est piscinarum ibidem consis-
tentium, secundum aliorum vero opinionem Zachariam, Barachise filium, ibidem peremtum
fuisse designat. Ab aquilonali autem parte claustrum et officinte existunt clericorum. Circa
ipsum vero templum grandes piscina; sub pavimento existunt. Inter aurcam quoque portam
et XV gradus grandis piscina vetus et coUapsa existit, in qua antiquitus hostise diluebantur
offerendae.

' Ipsum dcnique templum inferius octogonum esse manifestum est ; inferius usque ad
medium spatium nobilissimo marmore ornatum et a medio usque ad superiorem, cui tectum
incumbit, limbum musivo opere decentissime decoratum. Ipse vero limbus, circulariter per
totum templi ambitum circumductus, banc continet scripturam, qure, a fronte vel ab occi-
dentali introitu inchoans, secundum solis circuitum sic est legenda, in fronte : Pax ceterna ab
Kterno patrc sit huic domui ; in secundo latere : Templum Domini sanctum est. Dei cultura

JERUSALEM. 53

est. Dei sanctificatio est; in tertio latere : Htec est domus Domini firmiter jedificata; in
quarto latere : In domo Domini omnes dicent gloriam ; in cjuinto : Benedicta gloria Domini
de loco sancto sue ; in sexto ; Beati, qui habitant in domo tua, Domine ; in septimo : Vere
Dominus est in loco suo sancto, et ego nesciebam ; in octavo : Bene fundata est domus
Domini super firmam petram. Prseterea versus orientem juxta beati Jacobi ecclesiam columna
quEedam musivo opere in muro depicta est, supra quam talis est descriptio facta : Columna
romana. Superior autem murus angustiori circulo, fornicibus interius sustentatus, circumducitur,
qui, plumbeum gcstans tectum, in summo grandem pilani et super eam crucem deauratam habet
stantem. Per quatuor januas intratur et exitur, unaqureque janua suam de quatuor mundi
plagis respicientem. Subsistit autem ipsa ecclesia quadratis fornicibus VIII, columnis XVI,
cujus muri et ccelatura musivo opere nobiliter sunt decorata. Ambitus vero chori quatuor
habet fornices sive pilaria et octo columnas, quae interiorem murum, cum ipsius testudine in
altum porrecta,'gestant. Super ipsos autem chori arcus linea in circuitu circulariter porrigitur
hanc ex ordine continens scripturam Domus mea domus orationis vocatur, dicit Dominus.
In ea omnis, qui petit, accipit, et qui quasrit, invenit, et pulsanti aperietur. Petite et acci-
pietis, quserite et invenietis. In superior! vero circulo similiter circumducto hcec continetur
scriptura : Audi, Domine, hymnum et orationem, quam servus tuus orat coram te, Domine,
ut sint oculi tui aperti et aures tuK intentce super domum istam die ac nocte. Respice,
Domine, de sanctuario tuo et de excelso ccelorum habitaculo. In introitu proinde chori
altare in honore beati Nicolai habetur ferreo pariete inclusum superius limbum habente et
hanc scripturam continente, in fronte : Anno millesimo C°. 1°, indicia quarta, epacta XI ; in
sinistro latere: Ab Antiochia capta LXIIII. Jerusalem LXIII ; in dextro latere: Tripolis
LXII. Berytus LXI. Ascalona XI anni. Verum versus orientem ad latus chori locus
ferreo pariete januas habente circumseptus omni veneratione dignus habetur, in quo Dominus
noster Jesus Christus, ad teniplum cum oblatione sua XL° nativitatis sute die delatus, a
parentibus oblatus est, quem ad templi ipsius introitum senex Simeon in ulnas suscepit et
ad locum oblationis detulit, in cujus loci fronte hi versus sunt descripti :

' Hie fuit oblatus rex regum virgine natus.
Quo locus ornatur, quo sanctus jure vocatur.

Juxta eundem locum vix uno remotus cubito lapis ille situs est, quem Jacob patriarcha sup-
posuerat olim capiti suo, super quem dorniiens scalam ad ccelos vidit erectam, in qua
descendentes et ascendentes angelos vidit, et dixit : Vere Dominus est in loco isto, et ego
nesciebam. In cujus loci fronte isti continentur versus :

' Corpore sopitus, sed mente Jacob vigil intus
hie vidit scalam, titulum direxit ad aram.

' Hinc per orientalem portam ad capellam beati Jacobi apostoli, fratris Domini, intratur
ubi idem, de templi pinna prsecipitatus et, fullonis fuste cerebro confracto, ab impiis Judasis
peremtus, primo in valle Josaphat teniplo contigua sepultus et postea a fidelibus in eundem
locum relatus honorifice, ut eum decuit, sepulturx traditus est, super cujus sepulchrum hoc
scriptum est epitaphium :

' Die, lapis et fossa : Cujus sunt, qua; regis ossa }
Sunt Jacobi justi. Jacet hie sub tegmine busti.

54 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Est autcm ipsa ecclesiola rotunda, infcrius latior, superius angustior, coluninis VIII sustcntata
et picturis optime decorata. Rcdeuntibus ab ipsa ctiam per eandcm portam, retro ostium
ipsius portcc, ad sinistram quadrangulus quidam occurrit locus in lato et longo quinque habens
pedes, in quo Dominus stans et ubi esset intcrrogatus in Jerusalem, quam in medio orbis
sitam asserunt esse, respondit et hoc : Locus ille Jerusalem appcllatur. Item retro idem
ostium e regione prasdicti loci seu versus aquilonem alius occurrit locus illas continens aquas,
quas Ezechiel propheta vidit de templo a latere dextro. Rcdeuntibus in ccclesiam majorem
ad meridiem juxta chorum, immo sub ipso choro ostium paret, per quod gradibus fere XLV
in cryptam intratur, ubi scribas et pharisxi mulierem in adulterio deprehensam adduxcrunt
ad Dominum Jcsum cam accusantes, cui pius magister peccata remisit et a condcmnatione
liberavit Quo exemplo peregrinis indulgentia ibidem dari solet. Habet autem ipsa ecclesia
fenestras inferius XXXVI, superius XIIII, qux simul junctce faciunt quinquaginta, et est in
honore nostra dominje sanctre Maria; consecrata, cui etiam principale altare articulatum est.
Ipsa quoque ecclesia a beata Helena regina ct ejus filio Constantino imperatore fertur esse
fundata. Videamus ergo, quoties vel a quibus ipsum templum cedificatum fuerit sive dcstruc-
tum. Sicut legitur in libro Regum, primus rex Salomon templum Domini divina missione
magnis impensis sedificavit, non rotundum, uti nunc conspicitur, sed oblongum, quod usque
ad tempora Sedechicc, regis Jud^, permansit, qui captus a Nebuchadenasor, rege Babylonio-
rum, in Babyloniam captivus adductus est, et cum eo Juda et Benjamin captivati similiter in
terram Assyriorum translati sunt. Mox Nabuzardan, princeps coquorum ipsius, in Jerusalem
cum exercitu veniens templum et civitatem ipse cremavit, et h?ec prima ejusdem templi fuit
eversio. Post LXX autem captivitatis annos reversi ad terram Juda filii Israel, ducibus
Zorobabel ct Esdra, cum favore et permissione Cyri, Persarum regis, idem templum in eodem
loco recedificaverunt et, quoad melius potuerunt, ornaverunt. In recedificando autem templo
et civitate una, ut fertur, manu lapides, alia propter gentilium circummanentium assiduas
infestationes gladios tenebant. Hrec ergo secunda fuit templi re£edificatio. Postea eadem
civitas, ut in gestis Machabxorum legitur, ab Antiocho, rege Syrire, etsi non penitus, tamen
ex maxima parte vastata est, ornatus templi penitus destructus, sacrificia prohibita, muri diruti
et quasi in solitudinem tarn civitas, quam templum rcdactum est. Quod postea Judas Macha-
bseus et fratres sui cum adjutorio divino, fugato Antiocho ejusquc ducibus de Judaea propulsis,
reoedificaverunt et renovaverunt, et reparato altari sacrificia et oblationes, sicut prius, sacerdo-
tibus dispositis instituerunt. Hsc quoque templi tertia fuit restitutio, qure usque ad tempora
permansit Ilerodis, qui, ut Josephus refert, contradicentibus licet Judtcis, hoc templum solo
dejiciens majori et sumptuosiori opere aliud instituit. Et haec quarta templi resedificatio fuit,
qu?e etiam usque ad tempora Vespasiani et Titi perduravit, qui, expugnata omni provincia,
tam civitatem, quam templum funditus everterunt. Et ha;c quarta templi fuit eversio.
Post hoc, ut paulo ante dictum est, hoc templum, quod nunc videtur, ad honorem Domini
nostri Jesu Christi ejusque pia; genitricis ab Helena regina et ejus filio, imperatore Constan-
tino, constructum est. Et haec etiam quinta templi fuit restitutio.

' Sequitur ad meridiem palatium Salomonis, quod, in modum alicujus ecclesire oblongum
et columnis interius sustentatum, nee non in fine sanctuarii similitudine circulariter ductum
et magna atque rotunda testudine elatum, in speciem, ut diximus, ecclesiffi est formatum. Hoc
cum omnibus appenditiis suis in proprietatem cessit militum templariorum, qui, in eo et in
aliis domibus ad ipsum pertinentibus commanentes et arma, vestes et cibaria habentes repo-
sita, ad custodiendam provinciam atque tuendam semper invigilant. Habent etiam sub se
stabula equorum ab ipso rege quondam sedificata, ipsi palatio contigua mirandi operis varietate

JERUSALEM. 55

perplexa, fornicibus erecta, arcubus et testudinibus niultipliciter variata, quK secundum
nostram asstimationem X millia equorum cum eorum custodibus posse capere testati sumus.
Denique a fine usque ad finem ipsius redificii in longo et lato baleari arcu semel emissa
sagitta nemo posset pertingere. Superius domibus, solariis et xdificiis cunctis utilitatibus
aptis multiformiter abundat, superne vero deambulantibus viridariis, pra;toriis, vestibulis, con-
sistoriis et pluviarum receptaculis in replendis cisternis exuberat ; inferius vero lavacris,
horreis, granariis, lignorum receptaculis ac cteteris necessitatum provisionibus superexcellit.
Ex alia ipsius palatii parte sen ad occidentem novam templarii domum constituerunt, cujus
altitudinem, longitudinem, latitudinem, cellaria, refectoria, gradus et tectum, pn'eter illius
terras morem, alto culmine elatum, etsi ego possem referre, auditor vix posset credere. Nam
novam ibi constituerunt curiam, sicut ex alia parte habent antiquam. Novam etiam ibidem
ad latus atrii exterioris miras magnitudinis et operis condunt ecclesiam. Quantse autem vires
et divitiie sint templariorum, non facile quisque valet nosse. Nam omnes fere civitates vel
villas, quibus olim tota locuplebatur Judnsa, quas a Romanis erant destructa:, tam ipsi, quam
hospitarii, constitutis ubique castellis et militibus in iis dispositis, sibi subjugaverunt, prjeter
plurimas et infinitas possessiones, quas in exteris terris habere noscuntur.

' Et civitatis quidem murus a parte meridiana et orientali omnes eorum ambit habitationes,
ab occidentali vero et aquilonali murus a Salomone factus tam eorum habitacula, quam et
atrium exterius et ipsum circuit templum ; ad aquilonalem vero atrii partem ex reliquiis
Antonire ab Herode factse unus cum una porta remansit paries. Ipse autem collis, in quo
templum situm est, Moria antiquitus vocabatur, in quo rex David angelum Domini vidit
stantem et evaginato gladio populum ccedentem, quando ad Dominum dixit : Ego sum, qui
peccavi ; ego inique egi ; obsecro, ut in me vertas manus et domum patris mei ; isti, qui
eves sunt, quid fecerunt ? In hoc colle area fuit Areuna Jebusaei, quam ad constructionem
domus Domini ab eo emit David. Hinc per quoddam posticum angusta via inter murum
orientalem civitatis et hortum templariorum transitur et ad venerabilem ecclesiam, qua; ad
balneum sive ad prtesepe Domini salvatoris dicitur, pervenitur. Ibi cunce Domini Christi
versus orientem in edito muro ante quamdam fenestram honorifice dispositK reverentur ; ad
meridiem vero concha lapidea grandis in terra posita videtur, in qua balneorum usus infans
ipse habuisse dignoscitur ; ad aquilonalem vero partem lectus dominse nostrEe, in quo, dum
filium sinu lactaret, decubuisse ostenditur. In banc ecclesiam L fere gradibus descenditur,
qux etiam quondam domus justi Simeonis fuit, in qua ipse in pace quiescit.

' Ab ipsa ecclesia sive ab ipso civitatis angulo versus meridiem per declivum montis latus
secus antemuriale, quo templarii domos et curiam suam munierunt, ubi etiam antiijuitus
ipsius civitatis erat positio, puta ad natatoriam Siloe via dirigitur, quam idcirco, sic fertur,
vocaverunt, quod a monte Silo occultis meatibus aquae fontis illius illuc soleant illabi. Quod
mihi ideo est in ambiguo, quia et noster mons, in quo civitas est sita, et alii interjacent
monies, nee recto tramite vallis qurelibet ab ipso monte ad eam dirigitur, nee propter remo-
tionem locorum tanti montes cavari possent. Distat enim mons Silo a civitate milliaribus
duobus. Hoc ergo in medio relinquentes, ea, quce vera esse novimus, auditoribus propona-
mus. Hoc pro vero fatemur, quod in fontis modum de terra scaturiat, qui scilicet fons
ipsam replens piscinam et in aliam juxta positam descendens non ultra comparet. Descen-
ditur autem in ipsam piscinam gradibus XIII, ubi in circuitu fornices arcus gestantes con-
sistunt, sub quibus magnis lapidibus per circuitum deambulatorium factum est, super quod
consistentes inferius decurrentes haurire valeant aquas. Alia autem piscina quadrangula
simplici muro circumdata est. Ista natatoria olim erat intra civitatem, modo ab ea longe

S6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

rcmota est ; nam duplo fere tantum hie civitati dcmtum est, ([uantum circa sepulchrum
Domini additurn est

' Nunc igitur secundum Christi passionis ordinem nostra: narrationis nos oportet dirigerc
sermonem, qui per suam gratiam ita nobis ei donet compati, ut ei possimus conregnarc.
Milliario ab Hierosolymis Bethania, ubi domus Sinionis leprosi, Lazari et ejus sororum
Alariaj et Marthx erat, distat, ubi Uominus sa;pe hospitari solebat. Sita est autem Betiiania
juxta valleni Oliveti, montem a parte orientali terminantcm. A Bethania ergo in die palma-
runi dilectissimus Dominus noster Jesus Christus prxccdens et Bethphagc venicns, qui locus
inter Bethaniam et montem Oliveti medius est, ubi etiam honesta capella in ipsius honore est
fabricata, binos ad adducendam asinam et pullum misit discipulos, et stans super lapidem
grandem, qui in ipsa capella manifcste videtur, et asino insidens per montem Oliveti
Hierosolymam properavit, cui turba multa in descensu montis ipsius obviam processit. Ipse
vero progrediens ultra vallem Josaphat et torrentem Cedron ad auream portam, quae duplex
est, pervenit. In cujus adventu una porta, excusso pessulo, per se illi patuit, alteram vero,
extracto violenter ejus circulo, cum sonitu magno patere fecit : quapropter ibidem capella in
ejus honore consecrata est, ubi idem circulus deauratus in magna veneratione habetur. Ipsa
vero porta nunquam nisi in die palmarum et in exaltatione sanctre crucis solet aperiri, pro eo,
quod Ileraclius imperator cum magna ipsius ligni portione, quod de Perside adduxerat, per
eam transivit. Ipse autem in templum intrans in eo quotidie usque ad feriam quartam erat
docens.

' Cum eo igitur in montem Sion cupio ascendere et quid post ha^c fecerit, videre ; sed
prius cum Petro volo incarccrari, ut cum eo a Christo doccar non negare, sed orare. In via
quijjpe de templo provenientibus ad montem Sion decora occurrit capella, in qua career ille
profunda altitudine sub terra positus, ulpote ad quem XX et amplius gradibus intratur,
habetur, in quo Herodes Junior sanctum vinxerat Petrum, de quo eum angelus Domini
eduxit. In introitu ipsius capellce isti sunt versus descripti :

'Vestibus indutus, Petre, surge, recede solutus.
Namque catenarum sunt vincula rupta tuarum.
Nunc scio re certa, cum porta mihi sit aperta.
O pietas Christi, quoniam me salvificasti.

' Sion ergo mons, ad meridiem extra muros civitatis ex maxima parte constitutus, eccle-
siam domina; nostrx sancti"e Maria: articulatam, muris, turribus, propugnaculis adversus
gentilium insidias valde munitam continet, in qua rcgulares praepositum habentes Deo deser-
viunt. Quam dum intraveris, in media abside ad sinistram locum ilium venerabilem reperies
marmore pretioso exterius et opere musivo intcrius decoratum, in quo Dominus noster Jesus
Christus dilectse matri suae, dominae nostrx sanctas Mariae, animam assumens ad caelestia
transtulit. Quod opus inferius quadratum est, superius vero rotundum gestat ciborium. A
dextris autem gradibus fere XXX ad illud ascenditur ccenaculum, quod in fine absidis situm
est : in quo mensa cernitur, in qua ipse Dominus noster cum discipuHs suis coenavit, et post pro-
ditoris abscessum ipsis discipulis corporis et sanguinis sui mysteria tradidit. Ab illo loco ad
meridiem in eodem ccenaculo ultra spatium XXX pedum altare habetur in eo loco, ubi
spiritus sanctus super apostolos venit. Abhinc tantum inferius per gradus descenditur, quan-
tum hue est ascensum, et in capella ipsi ccenaculo supposita concha ilia lapidea in muro
posita videtur, in qua salvator pedes apostolorum in eodem loco lavit, ubi juxta ad dextraai

JERUSALEM. 57

altare habetur in loco, ubi Thomas latus Domini post resurrectionem palpavit, qui pro hoc
ipso digitus appellatur. Ex hoc per quoddam vestibulum circa ipsius ecclesicc sanctuarium
transitur et ad sinistram ejus altare venerandum habetur, sub quo corpus beati Stephani pro-
tomartyris a Johanne, episcopo hierosolymitano, sepultum fuisse non dubitatur, quod postea a
Theodosio imperatore Constantinopoli Romam translatum esse legitur, quod etiam primo de
Hierosolyma Constantinopolim ab Helena regina perlatum esse fertur. Ante chorum qucedam
pretiosi marmoris columna juxta murum posita est, quam simplices homines circummigrare
Solent.

' Hinc post canam suam Dominus trans torrentem Cedron egressus est, ubi erat hortus.
Torrens Cedron per mediam vallem Josaphat graditur. In loco autem, ubi hortus ille fuit,
ecclesia beatse Marine cum suis officinis constituta est, ubi ipsa corporaliter fuit sepulta.
Intratur vero per quamdam porticum gradibus amplius quam XL in cryptam, in qua sanctum
ejus exstat sepulchrum, quod opere pretiosissimo de marniore et opere musivo dccoratum est.
In hujus cryptEe introitu hi duo versus appositi sunt :

' Haeredes vitce, dominam laudare venite,
per quam vita datur mundique salus reparatur.

Quod in circuitu XX columnis arcus gestantibus circumdatum Hmbum in circuitu et tectum
desuper habet. In ipso autem limbo hi quatuor versus descripti sunt :

' Hie Josaphat vallis, hinc est ad sidera callis.
In Domino fulta, fuit hie Maria sepulta.
Hinc exaltata ccelos petit inviolata :
spes captivorum, via, lux et mater eorum.

Super tectum quoque ciborium rotundum sex duplicibus columnis fultum cum pila et cruce
deaurata desuper habet, et inter duas columnellas undique lampas dependet. Ad ipsum
autem sepulchrum a parte occidentali intratur et per aquilonalem exitur. Assumtio autem
ipsius in coelatura superius optime depicta est sub recta linea banc scripturam continente :
Assumta est Maria in ccelum : gaudent angeli et coUaudantes benedicunt dominam. Circa
sanctuarium quoque ipsius basilicae regula porrigitur banc continens scripturam : Exaltata
est sancta Dei genitrix super choros angelorum ad ccelestia regna. Abhinc in ipsam ecclesiam
tantis ascenditur gradibus, quantis in cryptam descensum est. Est autem ipsa ecclesia et
omnes ejus ofificinse muris altis, turribus firmis et propugnaculis adversus gentilium insidias
valde munita, circa se plurimas habens cisternas. Exeuntibus ipsam cryptam ad sinistram
capella parvula in ipsis sita gradibus occurrit. In ipsa quoque ecclesia Suriani proprium
habent altare. In coelatura quoque, qua; ipsis gradibus, quibus in ipsam cryptam descenditur,
incumbit, migratio dominas nostra cernitur esse depicta, ubi dilectus filius ejus, Dominus
noster Jesus Christus, cum multitudine angelorum assistens et ejus animam suscipiens ad
ccelesta transfert, apostolis gemituose adstantibus et devotum ei ministerium exhibentibus.
Cujus corpori sanctissimo feretro imposito dum superpositum velamen vellet quidam Judicus
avellere, angelus utrasque manus ei gladio amputavit, quibus in terram cadentibus trunci in
corpore remanserunt inanes : fertur enim quia, cum ipsa domina nostra migrasset de corpore
in monte Sion, ut in anterioribus dictum est, et sancti apostoli sanctissimum corpus ipsius
feretro reverenter impositum in valle Josaphat turaulandum per viam extra muros civitatis
versus orientem tendentem ducercnt, Judrei, nondum sopita invidiam et odii flamma, quam

58 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

dudum in earn ejusque filium exercuerant, ut ci aliquid ignominire inferrent, occurrerant,
([uorum unus, audacior ac ceteris infelicior, ad sancti corporis gcstatorium accedcns vclamen
ci superpositum ausu improbo nisus est avcUere, sed hanc ejus temeritatem et bcataj virginis
Marias merita et ultio divina graviter mulctaverunt. Nam utrisque manibus et brachiis
arefactis, cxteris non sine horrore velocem fugani incussit.

' Progresso deinde versus montem Olivcti ad meridiem non modica tibi occurrit ecclesia,
Gethsemane nuncupata, ubi salvator, cum discipulis suis ab liorto veniens, intravit et ad eos
dixit : Sedete hie, donee vadam illuc et orem. Ingressus itaque in earn statim invenies altare
vencrandum, et ad sinistram in subterraneum specum ingredicns quatuor loca invenies
denotata, in quibus singulis terni apostoli cubantes obdormicrunt. Est etiam ad sinistram
saxum grande in ipsius specus angulo, in quod ipse Christus digitos imprimens sex in eo
fecit foramina. Et ipse avulsus est ab iis, quantum jactus est lapidis. Nam paulo altius
versus monlem Oliveti, ad meridiem, irinam fecit orationem, in cjuo loco nova nunc a;difi-
catur ecclesia. Est vero unus locus unius orationis in abside sinistra, alius in medio chori,
tertius in abside dextra. Inter Gethsemane autem et loco orationum medio spatio, in latere
mentis Oliveti, ubi turbre Domino cum ramis palmarum occurrerunt, ex lapidibus locus altus
factus est, in quo in die palmarum a patriarcha palmae benedicuntur. Circa haec itoque
loca, cum Jesus paveret et cadcret, adveniens Judas cum laternis et facibus et armis et
ministri Judxorum comprehcnderunt cum et angariaverunt et ad atrium princijjis sacerdotum
seu Caiphs perduxerunt. Quem cum tota nocte illusissent, mane eum judici Pilato prxsen-
taverunt.

' Quem post multas interrogationes cum eo habitas ad locum judiciarium duci fecit et
sedil pro tribunali in loco, qui vocatur Lithostrotos, qui locus ante ecclesiam beatte Maria; in
monte Sion in edito versus civitatis murum situs est : ubi capella venerabilis in honore
Domini nostri Jesu Christi habetur, in qua pars magna columnje exstat, circa quam ligatus
Dominus a Pilato, postquam crucis appensioni ab eo adjudicatus est, jussiis est flagellar!, ubi
peregrini ad ejus c.xemplum flagellari solent. Ante ipsam vero ecclesiam in lapide ad crucis
similitudinem facto haec scriptura exarata est : Iste locus vocatur Lithostrotos, et hie Dominus
fuit judicatus. Dehinc versus orientem ad dextram, ex alia parte plateae, gradibus L descenditur
in ecclesiam Galitea nuncupatam, ubi duo circuli catena;, qua beatus Petrus erat vinctus,
habentur. Deinde ad sinistram altaris partem LX fere gradibus descenditur in subterraneum
specum obscurissimum, in quem Petrus fugiens post negationem in ejus angulo latuit. Ibi
enim depictus est residens et caput in manibus dcclinans pii magistri incommoda et suam
deflet negationem, ancilla ei minaciter instante et gallo ante ejus pedes stante et canente.
Huic ecclesix pr?esunt Armenii. Hinc Dominus, per civitatis murum circumductus, in
Calvariam, ubi tunc horli habebantur, nunc domus habentur, ductus et crucitixus est. Nam,
sicut apostolus ait, Dominus extra portam passus est.

' Et de Christo quidem et ejus locis ea, quce visu didicimus, pro posse narravimus. Nunc
quDedam de ejus amicis et aliis locis nota referemus. Post hoc quondam a nobis visa, quoedam
ab aliis nobis relata dicemus.

' Juxta viam, quae ducit ad portam orientalem aureae porta: vicinam secus domum vel
palatium Pilati, quam eidem viae contiguam esse supra diximus, ecclesia beatae Annas sita est
matris dominre nostras sanctas Marire, ad cujus sepulchrum in subterraneum specum gradibus
descenditur fere XX. Sanctimoniales in ea sub abbatissa Deo deserviunt. Ad cujus aqui-
lonalem partem qui progreditur, in valle profunda, juxta lapidosum quemdam collem, cui
vetus quoddam opus incumbit, piscinam probaticam invenict, qua;, sicut in evangelic scribitur.

JERUSALEM. 59

quinque porticus habet, in cujus ultima altare constitutum est. Quicunque muros circuit
civitatis a turri David itineris initium faciens, juxta angulum occidentalem ecclesiam et habi-
tacula leprosorum ornata et bene ordinata reperiet. Pertransiens autem cisternam grandem
hospitariorum, antequam venias ad portam aquilonalem, ecclesia beati Stephani protomartyris
in colle sita tibi occunit, qui, per ipsam portam ejectus et a Judreis lapidatus, coelos ibidem
vidit aperte. Est autem in ipsa ecclesia media locus gradibus elatus, pariete ferreo septus, in
cujus medio altare venerandum et cavum habetur, ubi locus lapidationis ejus fuit et coeli
super eum apertionis. Hsec ecclesia abbati sanctce Marite in Latina subjacet. In ipsa vero
porta hospitale venerandum habetur, quod grsece xenodochium vocatur. Per ipsam quoque
viam cum aliquamdiu transiveris, ad sinistram viam carpens, versus orientem, ecclesiam
quamdam, quam tenent Armenii, reperies, in qua quidam sanctus, nomine Chariton, requicscit,
cujus ossa, ac si viverent, came teguntur.

' Post hjec, cum tempus et hora dominicae ascensionis instaret, conscenso Dominus monte
Oliveti stans super lapidem grandem, videntibus apostolis ejusque benigna dignatione bene-
dictis, coelos ascendit. Est autem mons Oliveti, ut in anterioribus dictum est, omnibus
circumpositis civitati montibus eminentior, omnium fructuum proventibus abundans, in cujus
summo cacumine ecclesia summK venerationis honori ipsius salvatoris articulata continetur.
Nee enim locis ipsius Domini prsesentia illustratis alia consecratio in partibus illis adhiberi
solet prseter ipsam certe montis altitudinem. In ipsam ecclesiam XX magnis ascenditur
gradibus ; in medio autem ipsius ecclesite opus quoddam rotundum magnifice pario marmore
et cceruleo decoratum et alto culmine elatum existit, in cujus medio altare reverendum
habetur, sub quo lapis lUe videtur, in quo Dominus ccelos scandens stetisse perhibetur. In
ipsa vero ecclesia canonici officia divina peragunt. Quae et ipsa turribus magnis et parvis, et
muris, propugnaculis et nocturnis custodiis valde adversus gentiles exstat munita. Exeuntibus
de ipsa ecclesia versus occidentem ecclesiola subterraneo specu tenebrosa ocurrit, in quem
cum gradibus XXV fuerit descensum, in sarcophago grandi corpus beatx Pelagiae cernitur,
quje ibidem inclusa in divino servitio vitam finivit. Item ad occidentem juxta viam Betha-
niam tendentem, in latere montis Oliveti, magnie reverentise habetur ecclesia, in quo loco
residens salvator et a discipulis, qualiter orare deberent, interrogatus eos orare docuit dicens :
Pater noster, qui es in co:lis. Hoc eis propria scripsit manu. Hoc sub ipso altari scriptum
est, ita ut illud peregrini osculari possint. A medietate quoque ipsius ecclesire in subterra-
neum specum gradibus fere XXX descenditur, ubi Dominus saspe residens discipulos docuisse
perhibetur.

' Quisquis per occidentalem urbis portam turri David contiguam exiens, reflexo versus
meridiem calle, vallem Ennon duo civitatis latera cingentem juxta novam cisternam per-
transierit.

' Exeuntibus de sancta civitate versus occidentem per portam turri David contiguam ad
dextram iter est ad quamdam capellam, in qua cum per gradus fere centum ad profundissimum
et subterraneum specum fuerit descensum, innumerabilia reperiuntur corpora peregrinorum,
qui hoc modo illuc devenisse feruntur : Omnes, qui in uno anno ipso solemni causa orandi
venerunt peregrini, civitatem Saracenis plenam reperierunt, et propterea intrare non valcntes,
nee recedere volentes, eos in civitate obsederunt. Sed nee arma, nee escas ad tam arduam
rem explendam sufficienter habentes, defectu necessariorum vehementer arctari cosperunt.
Et cum in defectu existerent, videntes Saraceni eos sibi non posse resistere, de civitate in eos
subita eruptione omnes gladio interemerunt. Ascendente autem de tot hominum corporibus
cetore, omnia decreverunt ignibus exurere ; ipsa autem nocte missus a Deo affuit leo, qui

8—2

6o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

omnia ilia corpora in ilium spccum os angustum habcntcm projccit. lUorum autem parva
quxlibet particula trans mare potest deferri, quin et, si carinis fucrit illata, naves sua sponte
rcdire feruntur.'

The following is from the ' Citez de Jherusalem,' written about the
year 1 187, a.d. It is of great value as giving the account of the mediaeval
churches in Jerusalem, the names of the streets, pools, etc., as in use
among the Christians of the Middle Ages :

'Pour ce que li plus des bonz cresticnz parolent e oient volanticrz parler de la sainte cite
de Iherusalem, e des Sainz Leux ou nostre Sire fu morz et viz, nous dironz, commant ele
seoit au jor, que li sarrazin et Salahadinz la conquistrent seur les chrestienz. Aucunes gens
porront estre qui Ic vorront oir ; cil a qui il desplera, porront trespasser cest leu.

' Iherusalem, la gloricuse citez, n'est pas en eel liu qu'ele estoit, quant Ihesu Cris estoit en
terre ne il fu crucefi^s ne il fu resuscit^s de mort a vie. Quant Ihesu Cris estoit en terre,
estoit la cites de Iherusalem sor le mont de Syon ; mais ele n'i est ore pas. II n'i a solement
c'une abeie de moines, e en cele abeie a un mostier de madame sainte Marie. La u li mos-
tiers est, si con on fait entendant, fu la maisons u Ihcsus Cris cena aveques ses apostres le
juesdi absolu, e fist le sacrcment de I'autel. En eel mostier est li lius u il s'aparut as apostres
le jor de pasques, quant il fu resuscites. En eel mostier est li lius u il mostra ses plaies de
ses pies et de ses mains et de son cost^ a saint Thumas as octaves de pasques, e se li dist
qu'il li baillast sun doit, e le boutast en son cost^, si creist fermement, e noient ne se doutast,
si ne fust mie mescreans, ains creist. E la meisnies s'aparut il le jor de I'ascension a ses
apostres, quant il vint prendre congi^ a aus e il vot monter es cieus. D'alec le convoierent il
jusqu'cl mont Olivet. De la monta il es ciex. Dont retornerent ariere en eel liu meisme e
atendirent le saint espir, si con Ihesu Cris lor avoit dit e commande qu'il retornassent ariere
en la citiJ, si attendissent le saint espir qu'il lor avoit promis. En eel liu lor envoia il la
grasse del saint espir le jor de pentecoste. En eel mostier meisme est le lius u madame
sainte Marie trespassa en Galile'e, e d'iluec le porterent li apostre enfoir el val de Josafas, e
misent en un sepucre.

' La u li sepucres madame sainte Marie est, a un mostier, c'on apele le mostier madame
sainte Marie de Josafas, e si a une abeie de noirs moines. Li mostiers de monte Syon si a
a non li mostiers madame sainte Marie de Monte Syon, e si a une abeie de chanoines. Ces
n. abeies sont defers les murs de la cite, I'une est el mont e I'autre est el val. L'abeie de monte
Syon est a destre de la cite en droit midi, e cele del val de Josaphat est vers solel levant entre
mont Olivet e monte Syon.

' Li mostiers del sepucre qui ore est e monte Calvaire, estoit, quant Ihesu Cris fu crucefies,
fors des murs. Ore est en mi liu de la cite, e si est la citds auques en un pendant, e pent
vers mont Olivet qui est vers solel levant desor le val de Josafas.

' En Iherusalem a ini. maistres portes en crois, I'une en droit I'autre, estre les posternes
Or les vos nomerai, e coment eles sient.

' La porte David est vers solel couchant e est a la droiture dc portes oires qui sont vers
solel levant deriere le temple Domini. Cele porte tient a la tor David, pour 50U I'apele on
la porte David. Quant on est en cele porte, si tome on a mien destre en une rue. Par
devant la tor David si puet on aler en monte Syon par une posterne qui la est. En cele rue,

JERUSALEM. 6i

a main senestre ains c'on isse hors de Li posterne, a un mostier mon segnor Jaque de Galisse
qui frere fu mon segnor saint Jehan evangeliste. La dist on que sains Jaques ot la teste
copee. Per 90U fist on la eel mostier.

' La grans rue qui va de la porte David droit a portes oires, cele rue est apelee desi c'al
cange la rue David. A main senestre de la tor David a une grant place u on vent le bl^, e
quant on a un poi avale cele rue qui a a non la rue David, si trueve on une rue a main
senestre qui a a non la rue le patriarche, por 50U que li patriarches maint al cief de cele rue.
E a main destre de le rue le patriarche a une porte, par la u on entre en la maison de I'ospital.
Apres si a une porte, par la u on entre el mostier del sepucre ; mais n'est mie la maistre porte.

' Quant on vient al cange, la u la rue David faut, si trueve on une rue qui a a non la rue
de monte Syon ; car cele rue vait a la porte monte Syon. E a senestre del cange a une rue
tote coverte a vote qui a a non la rue des herbes. La vent on tot le fruit de le vile e les
herbes e les espisses. Al cief de cele rue a un liu, la u on vent le poisson, e dcriere le marcie,
la u on vent Ic poisson, a une grandisme place a main senestre, la u on vent les oes e les fro-
mages e les poles e les awes. A main destre de eel marcie sont les escopes des orfevres
suriens, e si vent on les paumes que li paumier apportent d'outre mer. A main senestre de
eel marcie sont les escopes des orfevres latins. Al cief de ces escopes a une abeie de nonains,
c'on apele sainte Marie le grant. Apres cele abeie de nonains trueve on une abeie de noincs
moirs, c'on apele sainte Marie le latine. Apres trueve on le maison de I'ospital. La est la
maistre porte de I'ospital.

' A main destre de la droiture de I'ospital est la maistre porte del sepucre. Devant cele
porte del sepucre a une moult bele place pavee de marbre. A main senestre de cele porte
del sepucre a un mostier, c'on apele saint Jake des Jacobins. A main destre tenant de cele
porte del sepucre a uns degres, par la u on monte en monte Calvaire. Lasus, en som le
mont si a une moult bele chapele, e si a un autre huis en cele chapele, par la u on entre e
avale el mostier del sepucre par uns autres degrez qui la sont tot si com on entre el mostier.
A main destre desos monte Cauvaire si est Golgatas. A main senestre est li clochiers del
sepucre, c si a une chapele, c'on apele sainte trinitd Cele chapele si est granz ; car on i
soloit espouser totes les femes de la cite, e la etoient li fons, la u on batisoit tos les enfans de
la citd E cele chapele si est tenans al mostier del sepucre, si qu'il i a une port dont on entre
el mostier.

' A la droiture de cele porte est li monumens. En eel endroit, la u li monumens est, est
li mostiers tos roons, e si est overs par desore, sans covertures. E dedens eel monument est
la piere del sepucre, e li monumens est tot covers a voute. Al chavec de eel monument ausi
com al cief a un autel par defors, qu'on apele le chancel. La chantoit on cascun jor messe
al point del jor. II a moult bele place tot entour le monument e tote pavee, si c'on va a pro-
cession tot entor le monument.

' Apres vers oriant est li cuers del sepucre, la u li chanoine chantent. Entre le cuer, la u
li chanoine sont, e le monument a un autel, la u li griu chantent, mais qu'il a un enclos entre
II. e si a un huis, par la u on va de I'un a I'autre. En mi liu del cuer as chanoines a un cru
de marbre, c'on apele le compas ; la sus list on I'epistre.

' A main destre del maistre autel de eel cuer est monte Calvaire, si que, quant on chante
messe de la resurrexion, li diacres, quant il list I'evangile, si se torne devers monte Cauvaire,
quant il dist crucifixum ; apres si se torne vers le monument e si dist : surrexit, non est hie ;
apres le mostre al doit : ecce locus, ubi posuerunt eum, e puis se torne al livre, si parlist son
evangile.

(>2 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' Al chavec del cucra une porte, parla u li chanoine vont en lor ofiecines, e a main dcstrc
entre cele portc c monte Cauvaire a une parfonde fosse u on avale a degres. La a une
cliapcle, c'on apelc sainte Elaine. La trova sainte Elaine la crois e les clous e le martel e la
corone. En ccle fosse, al tans que Ihesu Cris fu en terre, getoit on les crois, la u li laron
avoient estd crucefii^, e les membres qu'il avoient deservi a couper. E por 90U apele on eel
niont niontc Cauvaire, c'on i faisoit les justices e ^ou que la lois aportoit, c c'on i cschavoit
les membres c'on lor avoit jugie a perdre.

' Tot si comme li chanoine issent del scpucre, a main senestre estoit lor dortoirs, e a main
destre estoit lor refroiloirs c tient a monte Cauvaire. Entre ces 11. offecines est lor clostres
e lor prael. En mi liu du prael a une grant overture, par u on voit en la chapele sainte Elaine
qui desos est ; car autrement n'i vcrroit on noient.

' Or vos ai dit del scpucre, comment il est. Or rcvcnrai ariere al cangc. Devant le cange
tenant a le rue des herbes a une rue, c'on apelc mal cuisinat. En cclc rue cuissoit on les
viandes c'on vendoit as pelerins, e si i lavoit on lor cics, e si aloit on de ccle rue al sepucre.
Tenant a cele rue del mal cuisinat a une rue, c'on apele le rue covcrte. La on vent le dra-
perie, e est tote a voute par desus, e par cele rue va on al sepucre.

' Or lairons del cange, si m'en irai a portes oires. Cele rue dont on va del cange a portes
oires, a a non le rue del temple. Por ^ou I'apele on la rue del temple, c'on vient ains^ois al
temple c'a portes oires. A main senestre, si con on avale cele rue a aler a portes oires, est
la boucherie, la u on vent la char de la vile. A main destre a une rue, par la u on va a
I'ospital des alemans. Cele rue a a non le rue des alemans. A main senestre sor le pont a
un mostier de saint Gille. Al cief de cele rue a unes portes, c'on apele portes precieuses.
Tor qo les apele on portes precieuses que Ihesu Cris entroit par ces portes en la cit(5 de
Iherusalem, quant il ala par terre. Ces portes sont en i. mur qui est entre le mur de la cit^
e portes oires.

' Entre le mur de la cite e le mur des portes oires si est li temples, e si a une grant place
qui plus a d'une traitie de lone e le get d'une piere de 1^, ains c'on vegne al temple. Cele
place si est pavee, dont on apele cele place le pavement. Si com on ist de ces portes, a main
destre est li temples Salemon, la u li frere del temple manoient. A la droiture de portes
precieuses e de portes oires est li mostiers del temple Domini, e si est en haul, si c'on i monte
a degres. Quant on a mont^ ces degres, si trueve on le grant place tote pavee de marbre e
moult est large, e cil pavemens va tot entor le mostier del temple. Li mostiers del temple
est tos roons. A main senestre de eel haut pavement del temple est I'offecine de I'abe e des
chanoines, e de cele part a uns degres, par la u on monte al temple del bas pavement el haut.

' Devcrs solel levant tenant al mostier del temple a une chapele de mon segnor saint
Jakome I'apostrc, le menor. Por 50U est iluec cele chapele qu'il i fu martirie's, quant li jui le
geterent de desor le temple a val. Dedens cele chapele est li lius u Ihesu Cris delivra la
pecheresse c'on menoit martirier, por ^ou qu'ele avoit este prise en avoutire, e il li demanda,
quant il I'ot delivrde, ou cil estoient qui I'avoient acusde, e ele dist qu'ele ne savoit. Adonc
li dist Dex qu'ele s'en alast e ne pechast mais.

' Al cief de eel pavement, par devers solel levant, ravale on uns degres a aler a portes
oires. Quant on les a avalds, si trueve on une grant place, ains c'on vegne as portes. La
sicst li atres que Salemons fist. Par ces portes ne passoit nus, ains estoient murees, que 11.
fois en I'an, c'on les dcsmuroit, e i aloit on a procession le jor de pasque florie, pour gou que
Ihesu Cris i passa eel jor e fu recheus a procession, e le jorde sainte crois saltasse, por 50 que
par ces portes fu rapportee la sainte crois en Iherusalem, quant li empereres Eracles de

JERUSALEM. 63

Rome le conquesta en Perse, e par cele porte le reinist il en la cite e ala on a procession
encontre lui. Por <;ou c'on n'issoit mie hors de la vile par ces portes, avoit il une posterne
par encoste, c'on apeloit la porte de Josafas. Par cele posterne issoient hors cil de la cite de
cele part, e cele posterne est a main senestre des portes oires.

' Par devers midi ravale on del haut pavement del temple el bas dont on vait el temple
Salemon. A main senestre, si com on a avale del haut pavement el bas, la a un mostier, c'on
apele le berc. La estoit li bers dont Dex fut bercies en s'enfance, si con on dist.

' El mostier del temple avoit iiii. portes en croix. La premiere est devers solel couchant.
Par la entroient cil de la cit(^ el temple. E par cele devers solel levant entroit on en la
chapele saint Jaque, e si s'en rissoit on d'ilueques a aler a portes oires. Par la porte devers
miedi aloit on el temple Salemon, e par la porte devers aquilon entroit on en I'abeie.

' Or vos ai devise del sepucre e del temple, coment il siet, e de I'ospital e des rues qui
sont de la porte David dusc'a portes oires, I'une en droit I'autre, dont I'une est devers solel
levant e I'autre devers solel couchant.

' Or vos dirai des autres 11. portes dont I'une est en droit I'autre. Cele devers aquilon a
a non la porte saint Estevene. Par cele porte entroient li pelerin en la cite e tot cil qui par
devers Acre venoient en Iherusalem e par tote la terre dega le flun desci c'a le mer d'Escalone.
Dehors cele porte, ains c'on i entre, a main destre, avoit un mostier de mon segneur saint
Estene. La dit on que mes sire sains Estenes fu lapides. Devant eel mostier, a main
senestre, avoit une grant maison, c'on apele I'asnerie. La soloient jesir li asne e li somier de
la maison de I'ospital, por gou avoit a non I'asnerie. Cel mostier de saint Estene abatirent
li crestien de Iherusalem devant 90U qu'il fussent asegi(?, por 90 que li mostiers estoit pres des
murs. L'asnerie ne fu pas abatue, ains ot puis mestier as pelerins qui par treuage venirent en
Iherusalem, quant ele estoit de sarrasins. Por 50 que li sarrasin ne les laissoient mie her-
bergier dedens la cite, por 90 lor ot la maisons de I'asnerie grant mestier. A main destre de
la porte saint Estene estoit la maladerie de Iherusalem tenant as murs. Tenant a le mala-
derie avoit une posterne, c'on apeloit la posterne saint Lasdre. La metoient li sarrasin les
crestiens en la cite, por aler covertement al sepucre, que li sarrasin ne vouloient mie que li cres-
tien veissent la faice de la cite, e les metoit on par la porte qui est en la rue le patriarche, el
mostier del sepucre, ne ne les metoit on mie par le maistre porte.

' Quant on entre en la cite de Iherusalem par la porte saint Estene, si trueve on 11. rues :
I'une a destre qui vait a le porte monte Syon, qui est en droit midi, e la porte monte Syon si
est a la droiture de la porte saint Estene. La rue a main senestre si va droit a une posterne,
c'on apele la posterne de la tanerie, e va droit par desos le pont.

' Cele rue qui vait a le porte monte Syon, a a non la rue saint Estene desi c'on vient al
cange des suriens. Ainsgois c'on vegne al cange des suriens, a une rue a main destre, c'on
apele le rue del sepucre. La est la porte de la maison del sepucre, par la entrent cil del
sepucre en lor manoirs.

' Quant on vient devant eel cange, si trueve on a main destre une rue coverte a vote, par
u on va el mostier del sepucre. En cele rue vendent li surien lor draperie e si fait on les
chandeles de cire. Devant eel cange vent on le poisson. A eel cange tienentles iii. rues qui
tienent as canges des latins, dont I'une de ces iii. rues a a non rue coverte. La vendent li
latin lor draperie. E I'autre a a non la rue des herbes e la tierce mal cuisinat. Par la rue
des herbes vait on en la rue monte Syon, dont on va a la porte monte Syon e trescope la rue
David. Par la rue coverte vait on en une rue par le cange des latins. Cele rue apele on la
rue del arc Judas, e trescope on la rue del temple, e cele rue va droit a le porte monte Syon.

64 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Cele rue apele on Ic rue del arc Judas, por cp c'on dist que Judas s'i pendi a un arc de piere.
A senestre de cele rue a un mostier, c'on apele le mostier saint Martin, e pres de eel mostier,
a main senestre, a un mostier de saint Pierre. La dist on que ce fu que Ihesu Cris fist le boe,
qu'il mist es iex de celui qui onques n'avoit eu oil, e li commanda qu'il s'alast laver a le fon-
taine de Syloe, si veroit, e il si fist, si ot iex e si vit.

' Tot si com on ist hors de le porte monte Syon, si trueve on iii. voies : une voie a main
destre qui vait a I'abeie e al mostier de monte Syon. Entre I'abeie e les murs de la cite si
avoit un grant atre e i. mostier en mi liu. La voie a main senestre si vait selonc les murs de
la cite tot droit a portes oires, e d'ilec avale on el val de Josafas, e si en vait on a la fontaine
de Syloe. E de cele porte a main destre sor cele voie a un mostier, c'on apele saint I'iere
en gallicante. En eel mostier avoit une fosse profonde. La dist on que sains Pieres se
mucha, quant il ot Ihesu Crist renoie, e il oi le coc chanter, c la plora il. La voie a la
droiture de le porte devers miedi si vait par desoz le mont dcsi c'on a passe I'abeie. Quant
on a pass^ I'abeie, si avale on le mont e vait on par la en Belleem.

' Si tost c'on a avale le mont, si trueve on i. lai en la valee, c'on apele le lai Germain ; car
Germains le fist faire, por recoillir les ewes qui venoicnt des montagnes, quant il plovoit, e la
abuvroit on les chevaus de la citd D'autre part la valee, a main senestre, pres d'ilueques a
un charnier, c'on apele champ de mar. La getoit on les pelerins qui moroient a I'ospital de
Ihcrusalem. Cele piece de terre u li charniers est, fu achetee des deniers dont Judas vendi
la char Ihesu Cris, si con I'evangiles tesmoigne.

' Dehors la porte David a un lai par devers solel couchant, c'on apele li lai del patriarche,
la u on recueilloit les ewes d'iluec entor a abuvrer les chevaus. Pres de eel lai avoit un char-
nier, c'on apeloit le charnier del lyon. II avint ja, si com on dist, a un jor qui passe's est,
qu'il ot une bataille entre eel charnier e Iherusalem, u il ot moult de crestiens ocis, e que cil
de la cit^ les devoient lendemain faire tos ardoir por le puor, tant qu'il avint, c'uns lyons vint
par nuit, si les porta tos en cele fosse, si com on dist. E sus eel charnier avoit un mostier u
on chantoit cascun jor messe.

' Pres d'ilec a une lieue avoit une abeie de jorjans, la u on dist c'une des pieces de la
crois fu coilluc, e I'estache de la crois fu prise devant le temple, qu'ele estoit demoree dou
temple, c'on ne pooit trover liu u ele s'aferist, qu'el ne fust u trop longe u trop corte. Dont
il avenoit, si com on dist, que, quant les gens venoient al temple e il avoient lor pies en boes,
qu'il terdoient iluecques lor pies. Dont il avint c'une fois i passa une roine, si le vit enboee,
si le terst de ses dras e si I'aora.

' Or vos dirai de cele piece de fust dont ele vint, si con on dist el pais. II avint chose
c'Adans jut el lit mortel, si pria une de ses fix por Deu qu'il li aportast un ransel de I'arbre
dont il avoit mangie del fruit, quant il pecha. II li aporta e il le prist, si le mist en sa bouche.
Quant il I'ot en sa bouche, il estrainst les dens, e I'arme s'en ala, n'onques eel rainsel ne li pot
on esragier des dens, ains fu enfois atot. Cis rainsiaus, si com on dist, reprist e devint bel
arbre,e quant ce vint queli deluives fu,siesragacisarbrese le menalideluives el mont de Liban,
e d'ilueques fu il mcnes en Iherusalem avec le mairien, dont li temples fu fais qui fu taillids el
mont de Liban. II avint, si com on dist, que, quant Ihesu Cris fu mis en crois, que la teste
Adan estoit dedans le boise, e quant li sans Ihesu Crist issi hors de ses plaies, la teste Adan
issi hors de la boise e recoilli le sane, dont il avient encore qu'en tos les crucefis c'on fait en
la terre de Iherusalem, c'au pie de la crois a une teste en raimenbrance de celi.

' Or vos dirai des jorjans qui sont en I'abeie u I'une partie de la crois fu prise, quels gens
se sont, ne de quel terre il sont. La terre dont il sont, a a non Avegie, e si a roi e roine dont

JERUSALEM. 65

aucunes gens apelent cele terre terre de Femenie. Por ce I'apelent terre de Femenie que la
roine chevauce e tient s'ost de ses femes ausi com li rois fait de ses homes. En cele terre
n'ont les femes c'une mamele, e si vos dirai por coi. Quant la feme est nee e ele est un poi
crute, si li cuist on la destre mamele d'un fer chaut, e la senestre il laisse on por ses enfans
norrir. E por go li cuist on la destre qu'ele ne li nuise al traire, quant ele est en bataille.

' A trois lieues de Iherusalem a une fontaine devers solel couchant, c'on apele la fontaine
d'Emaus. La soloit avoir un chastel, dont il avint, si com I'evangiles tesmogne, que nostra
Sire ala avec dos de ses desiples, quant il fu resuscite's, dusc'a eel chastel, e s'asisent a cele
fontaine por mangier, si qu'il ne le conurent mie desci qu'il brisa le pain. Adont s'esvanui
d'aus, e il s'en retornerent en Iherusalem as apostres, por faire savoir a iaus, comment il avoient
a lui parle.

' Or revieng a la porte saint Estene, a la rue qui vait a main senestre e vait a le posterne
de le tanerie. Quant on a ale une piece de cele rue, si trueve on une rue a main senestre,
c'on apele le rue de Josafas. Quant on a ale un poi avant, si trueve on un quarefor d'une
voie, dont la voie qui vient de senestre, vient del temple e vait al sepucre. Al cief de cele
voie a une porte par devers le temple, c'on apele porte dolereuse. Par la issi fors Ihesus,
quant on le mena el mont de Cauvaire por crucefier, e por gou I'apele on porte dolereuse. A
main destre sor le quarrefor de cele voie fu li ruisiaus, dont I'evangiles tesmogne que nostre
Sire passa, quant il fu menes crucefier. En eel endroit a un mostier de saint Jehan Evan-
geliste, e si avoit un grant manoir. Cil manoirs e li mostiers estoit des nonains de Bethanie.
La manoient eles, quant il estoit guerre de sarrasins.

' Or revieng a la rue de Josafas. Entre la rue de Josafas e les murs de la cit^, a main
senestre, a rues jusc'a la porte de Josafas ausi com une vile. La manoient li plus des suriens
de Iherusalem, e ces rues apeloit on la juerie. En cele juerie avoit un mostier de sainte
Marie Madalaine, e pres del mostier avoit une posterne, dont on ne pooit mie hors issir as
cans, mais entre 11. murs en aloit on.

■ A main destre de cele rue de Josafas avoit un mostier, c'on apeloit le repos. La dist on
que Ihesu Cris se reposa, quant on le mena crucefier, e la estoit la prisons u il fu mis la nuit
qu'il fu pris en Gessemani. Un poi avant, a main senestre de cele rue, estoit la maisons
Pilate. Devant cele maison avoit une posterne, par ou on aloit al temple.

' Pres de la porte de Josafas, a main senestre, avoit une abeie de nonains qui avoit a non
sainte Anne. Devant cele abeie a une fontaine qui a a non la pecine. Desor le fontaine
avoit un mostier. E cele fontaine ne cort point, ains est en une fosse desos le mostier. A
cele fontaine, al tans que Ihesu Cris fu en terre, avenoit que li angles par fies venoit movoir
celeewe,e qui primes descendoit a cele fontaine, por baignier apres gou que li angles I'avait mute,
il estoit garis de quel enfert^ qu'il eust. Cele fontaine avoit cinq porches, e devant ces porches
si gisoient molt de malades e d'enfers e de langereus, por atendre le movement de I'ewe. Dont
il avint que Ihesu Cris vint la un jor e trova la un home gisant en son lit qui xxxviii. ans i
avoit jut, se li demanda Ihesu Cris, s'il voloit estre garis. E il li respond! : Sire, je n'ai home qui
m'ajut a descendre en la fontaine, quant il angles a mute I'ewe. E quant il Fa mute e je
m'esmuet, por aler la, si truis je un autre qui s'i est baignies devant moi. Dont vint Ihesu
Cris, se li dist qu'il ostsat son lit e si s'en alast. E cil sali sus tos sains e tos saus, e si s'en
ala. Cel jor estoit samedis, si com I'evangiles tesmogne.

' Si com on ist de la porte de Josafas, si avale on el val de Josafas. A main destre de
cele porte sont portes oires. El val de Josafas si avoit une abeie de noirs moines. En
cele abeie avoit un mostier de madame sainte Marie. En eel mostier estoit li sepucres u ele

66 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

fu cnfoic, e est encore. Li sarrasin, quant il orcnt prise la cite, abalirent cclc abcic c enpor-
terent les pieres a le cite fcrmer ; mais le mostier n'abatirent il mie. Devant eel moslier, al
pic de mont Olivet, a un mostier en un roche, c'on apele Gessemani. La fu Ihesu Cris pris.
D'autre pari la voie, si com on monle el mont Olivet, tant com on getcroit une picrc, avoit un
mostier, c'on apeloit saint sauveur. La ala Ihesu Cris orer la nuit ciu'il fu pris, e la li degota
li sans de son cors ausi com suor. El val de Josafas avoit hermites e renclus ases tos contre
val, que je ne vos sai mie nomer, deci c'a la fontaine de Syloe.

' En som le mont Olivet avoit une abeie de blans moines. Pres de cele abeie, a main
destre, avoit une voie qui aloit en Bethanie, toute la costiere de la montagne. Sor le tor de
cele voie, a main destre, avoit un mostier, c'on apeloit saint paternostre. La dist on que
Ihesu Cris fis la paternostre e I'ensegna a ses apostres. Pres d'iluec fu li figiers que Dex
maudi, quant il ala en Iherusalem, por 90 que li apostre i alerent coillir des figes e si n'en i
troverent nule, e si n'estoit mie tans qu'eles i dcussent estre. Cel jor meismes retorna Ihesu
Cris de Iherusalem, por aler en Bethanie, e li apostre alerent par devant le figier, si le
troverent sec.

' Entre le mostier de la paternostre et Bethanie, en la coste de la montagne, avoit un
mostier qui avoit a non Bethfage. La vint Ihesu Cris le jor dc le pasque florie, e d'ilueques
envoia il en Iherusalem dos de ses desciples por une asnesse, e d'iluec ala il sor I'asnesse en
Iherusalem, quant il I'orent amenee.

' Or vos ai dit e nom^ les abeies e les mostiers de Iherusalem e de dehors Iherusalem e les
rues des latins; mais je ne vos ai mie nome ne nomcrai les abeies ne les mostiers des suriens,
ne des grejois, ne des jacobins, ne des boanins, ne des nestorins, ne des hermins, ne d'autres
gens qui n'estoient mie obeissant a Rome, dont il avoit abeies e mostiers en la cite. Por 50 ne
vos vuel mie parler dc totes ces gens qui j'ai chi nome, qu'il ne sont mie obeissant a Rome.'

John of Wirtzburg, who follows, died about the year 1213 a.d., and his
account is much like that of Theodoricus, but contains several important
details, such as his description of the outer wall of the Dome of the Rock.

' Nunc vero eamus ad repri^sentationem Domini, adjicientes hoc de circumcisione ejus,

quse facta est in templo Domini octavo die, quod ipsa, quamvis in ea carnis abscissio deposi-

tioncm vitiorum in mentibus aliorum significet, tamen, quia ad vetus testamentum pertinet, in

eo consummationcm accipiens, a modo cessare debeat. Inter sacramenta novi testamenti

circumcisio non computatur, nee pertinet ad aliquod septem sigillorum. Sicut jam diximus,

Dominus noster Jesus Christus a matre sua in tcmpio est reprresentatus, receptus ab ulnis

beati Simeonis spiritu prophetico inferentis : " Nunc dimittis servum tuum, Domine," etc. In

templo Dominus noster Jesus Christus jam major factus, dum moraretur Jerusalem, etiam

duodennis disputabat cum judreis et docebat eos soepe postea, licet eum odio habuerunt. In

templo laudavit munus pauperis, quod in gazophylazium miserat, quia totum, quod habebat,

dederat. Super pinnaculum templi, quod reputatur supra latus circuitus, habens subtus se

fenestras, quasi pinnas vel cinnas, statuit Jesum diabolus, et, tertio eum propter baptismum et

jejunium tentans, dixit : " Si filius Dei es, mitte te deorsum." In templo Domini XI. kalend.

decembris dicitur beata virgo Maria, jam trium annorum, oblata fuisse, ut hi versiculi docent

ibidem inscripti :

' Virginibus septem virgo comitata puellis,

servitura Deo, fuit hie oblata triennis.

JERUSALEM. 67

' Ibi quidem saepe solatium angelicum percepit. Unde versus :
' Pascitur angelico virgo ministerio.

' XI. kalend. decembris prsesentatio beatse Marise virginis in templo : unde hoec dicitur
oratio in eodem templo. Oratio. Deus, qui sanctam Dei genitricem, templum spiritus sancti,
post triennium in templo Domini prtesentari voluisti, respice ad devotam tibi plebem, et
prffista, ut, qui ejus prsesentationis festa veneramur, ipsi templum, in quo habitare digneris,
efficiamur. Per Dominum, etc.

' De templo vendentes et ementcs ejecit Dominus Jesus Christus, ad cujus rei indicium
adhuc in dextra parte templi ostenditur lapis cum magna veneratione luminariorum et ornatus,
tamquam pede Domini calatus et insignitus, quando ipse solus virtute divina tot restitit
hominibus eos violenter ejiciendo : qui lapis adjunctus est lapidi, super quem tamquam in
altare depingitur Dominus noster oblatus fuisse, ut demonstratur in pictura et superscriptione,

qufe talis est :

' Hie fuit oblatus rex regum virgine natus,
quapropter sanctus locus est hie jure vocatus.
Hie Jacob scalam vidit, construxit et aram.
Hinc locus ornatur, quo sanctus jure vocatur.

' Quod vero ibidem in lapide eodem Jacob depingitur caput posuisse, quando dormiens
vidit scalam in ccelum porrectam, per quam angeli ascendcrunt et descenderunt, salva templi
reverentia, non verum est : ubi et hie versus appositus est :

' Heec tua sit terra Jacob cum prole futura.

' Sed hoc non eo loco accidit, sed longe alibi ad Mesopotamiam eunti, scilicet juxta
majorem Mahumeriam.

' In templo liberavit Dominus noster adulteram ab accusantibus, dicens : " Qui sine pec-
cato est," etc., qui etiam illis accusatoribus tacentibus et exeuntibus dixit : " Mulier, vade in
pace, et jam amplius noli peccare." Locus ille reprtesentatur in parva crypta ejusdem templi,
ad quam introitus est in sinistra parte templi, et vocatur confessio. In eundem locum dicitur
ingressus Zacharias, quando ab angelo de conceptione Johannis est certificatus. Hoc totum
indicat pictura et superscriptiones, qua3 tales sunt : Angelus ad Zachariam : " Ne timeas,
Zacharia, exaudita est oratio tua," etc. In superliminari imago Christi : Absolve gentes sua
crimina corde fatentes.

' In templo ad altare, quod extra erat sub divo, remotum a templo plus quam per XXII
passus, Zacharias, filius Barachias, martyr occubuit, supra quod in veteri testamento judsi tur-
tures et columbas' sacrificare solebant : quod a sarracenis postea mutatum est in horologium,
et adhuc videri potest, et notari, quod plures sarraceni etiam hodie orandi causa ad ipsum,
versus meridiem dispositum, ad quem ipsi orare solent, veniunt.

' Idem vero templum Domini, miro tabulatu marmoreo intus et exterius a quocunque
exstructum, formam habet rotundam decentem, immo circulariter octogonam, id est, octo
angulos habentem in circuitu, habens parietem de optimo musivo opere exterius adornatum
usque ad medietatem ejus ; nam reliqua pars est de marmoreis lapidibus. Idem paries inferior
est continuus, praeterquam quod quatuor ostiis interrumpitur, habens ad orientem ostium unum,
cui adjuncta est capella in honore sancti Jacobi consecrata ; nam ab ea parte, de tecto templi

9—2

63 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

ipse prrecipitatus, pertica fuUonis fuit occisus : qui primus pontifex fuit sub novae legis gratia in
Jerusalem. Unde et hi versus sunt appositi in eadem capella, in latere parietis :

' Jacobus Alphoei, Domini similis faciei,
fmit pro Christo, templo depulsus ab isto.
Sic Jacobum justum, praedicantcm publice Cliristum,
plebs mala mulctavit, fullonis pertica stravit.

' Hi in circuitu quasi ciborii ejusdem capellae intus et supra continentur :

' Jacobus Alphaei, frater Domini nazarxi,

piscator vita, vere fuit israclita.

De templi pinna compulsus fraude maligna,

ad Christum Isetus migravit, vecte peremtus.

' Ad aquilone habens ostium unum versus claustrum dominorum, in cujus superliminari
phires litterce sarracenicje sunt appositae. Ibidem vero juxta idem ostium est locus illius aquK
salubris, de qua propheta : " Vidi aquam egredientem de latere," etc. In introitu templi versus
occidentcm, supra vcstibulum, Christi imago est, circa quam hoc continetur epigramma :
" Hfec domus mea domus orationis vocabitur." A meridic quoque habct ostium versus
aidificium Salomonis. Ab occidente etiam habet ostium versus sepulchrum Domini, ubi et
porta speciosa, per quam Petrus, cum Johanne transiens, respondens pauperi eleemosynam ab
eis pctcnti, cum esset claudus, dixit : " Argentum et aurum non est mihi," etc. Utrumlibet
istorum duorum ostiorum, videlicet ab aquilone ct ab occidente, habet sex januas modo val-
varum conjunctas ; nam illud versus meridiem habet quatuor, illud vero ad orientem tantum
duas. Quodlibet autem ostiorum pulchrum habet vcstibulum.

' Hkc circa inferiorem parietem ; sed in supcriorc parte ejusdem parietis, scilicet ubi
musivum opus optimum appositum est, fenestrse sunt intersertae sic, quod in quolibet de octo
lateribus sunt quinque, proeterquam ubi sunt ostia templi, in quibus quatuor tantum con-
tinentur fenestras, et est summa carum triginta sex. Inter istum exteriorem in circuitu
parietem et interiores columnas marmoreas et magnas, quse numero sunt duodecim et susten-
tant ilium interiorem et strictiorem et elatiorem et penitus rotundum parietem, qui habet duo-
decim fenestras, suppositis etiam sibi quatuor quadratis basibus, inter hunc, inquam, et ilium
sunt sedecim columns et octo bases cum quadratis lapidibus marmoreis, cum spatio octo
passuum, abhinc et inde sustentantes tectum medium inter exteriorem, latiorem parietem et
interiorem, strictiorem, cum pulcherrimis laqueariis supra se etiam juxta tectum locum deam
bulatorium circumquaque exhibentibus, et habentibus canales plumbeos aquam pluvialem
exportantes. Super hunc strictiorem parietem erigitur in altum testudo rotunda, intus depictas
foris plumbo cooperta, cui signum sanctae crucis in supremo a christianis est appositum, quod
sarraccnis est valde contrarium, et multi auri sui dispendio vellent esse remotum ; nam licet
fidem passionis Christi non habeant, tamen hoc templum venerantur, cum in eo creatorem
suum adorent, quod tamen pro idolatria habendum est teste Augustino, qui asserit, idolatriam
esse, quidquid fit prxtcr fidem Christi.

' In circuitu templi quasi sub tecto extra continetur haec littera in ascensu versus
occidentem : Pax aeterna ab aeterno patre sit huic domui. Benedicta gloria Domini de loco
sancto suo. Versus meridiem : Bene fundata est domus Domini supra firmam petram
Beati, qui habitant in domo tua ; in SKCula saeculorum laudabunt- te. Versus orientem.

JERUSALEM. 69

Vere Dominus est in loco illo, et ego nesciebam. In domo tua, Domine, omnes dicent
gloriam. Versus septentrionem : Templum Domini sanctum est. Dei culturi est. Dei
sedificatio est. Intus vero in temple in superiori linea per circuitum appositum est in magnis
litteris illud responsorium : Audi, Domine, hymnum, cum versu sue : Respice, Domine, etc.
In inferiore quoque ambitu cum aureis litteris quidam versiculi de illo hymno : Urbs beata
Jerusalem, continentur appositi.

' Idem templum sic decenter compositum et exornatum circumquaque habet atrium latum
atque planum, conjunctis lapidibus pavimentatum et in circuitu quadratum, ad quod a tribus
partibus multis ascenditur gradibus. Est enim idem atrium a qualitate terrte satis artificiose
elevatum. Et habet ab oriente in pariete suo latum introitum per quinque arcus quatuor
magnis columnis sibi connexos, et hie paries sic patet versus portam auream, per quam
Dominus quinto die ante passionem suam, sedens super asinam, solemniter introivit susceptus
a pueris hebrceis cum ramis palmarum, laudantibus et dicentibus : " Hosanna tilio David,"
etc. Qu£e porta ex divina dispositione, licet postea stepe Jerusalem ab hostibus esset capta
et destructa, semper remansit Integra. Hkc etiam porta, ob reverentiam divini et mystici
introitus Domini a Bethania per montem Oliveti Jerusalem ascendentis intus clausa, foris
lapidibus obstructa, in nullo tempore patet alicui, nisi in die palmarum, quo omni anno, ob
memoriam rei gesta;, solemniter aperitur processioni et universo populo peregrinorum sive
civium. A patriarcha facto sermone in pede montis Oliveti ad populum, finito eo die officio,
iterum clauditur per totum annum ut prius, nisi in exaltatione sanctce crucis, in qua etiam
aperitur. Circa eandem portam infra niuros Celebris sepultura habetur mortuorum.

' Idem atrium a meridie habet patulum accessum per tres magnos arcus duabus columnis
marmoreis conjunctos, et in eodem latere habet alium accessum priori latiorem. Ab occidente
vero versus civitatem pulchrum habet accessum, patens per quatuor arcus tribus columnis
marmoreis continuatis. Ab aquilone idem atrium angustatur in parte propter adjunctionem
claustri dominorum ; in reliquo ejusdem lateris satis pulchram habet latitudinem et accessum.
Pulchra quoque et satis ampla planities a meridie et occidenti, aliquantulum etiam versus
septentrionem eidem atrio forinsecus adjacet in piano.

' Hasc descriptio pr^'efati templi et adjacentis loci sufficiat ; potiori non invidemus.

' In descensu majoris platese est porta magna, qua patet introitus in illud latum atrium
templi. Ad dextram manum versus meridiem est palatium illud, quod quondam Salomon
dicitur exstruxisse, ubi est stabulum mirabile capacitatis tanta;, quod plus quam duo millia
equorum seu mille et quingenta camelorum possit capere. Juxta idem palatium milites tem-
plarii habent plurima adjuncta a3dificia magna et ampla, cum exstructione novae et magnse
ecclesioe nondum tamen consummate. Eadem namque domus multas habet possessiones et
infinitos reditus tam in ilia terra, quam in aliis partibus. Eleemosynam quidem facit satis
magnam in Christi pauperes, sed non in decima parte ejus eleemosynte, quam faciunt hospi-
tales. Eadem domus habet quamplures milites pro tuenda chrislianorum terra ; sed hi, nescio
quo infortunio, sive ex falso, sive ex vero, quoad fame relationem, aspersi sunt perfidire dolo :
quod tamen manifeste probatum est per factum illud apud Damascum cum rege Cunrado.

' Juxta sedificia eorundem templariorum, versus orientem, super murum civitatis fuit hos-
pitium justi Simeonis, in quo saepe beatam Mariam virginem, matrem Domini, hospitalitatis
ct familiaritatis causa, dicitur recepisse, fovisse et alimenta prcebuisse, sicut et ea nocte fecit,
quando in sequenti die, videlicet quadragesimo die a nativitate Domini ipsum puerum cum
niatre sua in templo oblaturus, in ulnis suis ad altare eum retinens et offerens, spiritu pro-
phetico cognoscens, eum ilium fore, qui per tot et tanta retro spatia ab antiquis patribus

70 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

inenarrabili desiderio esset exspectatus, inlulit prophetice : " Nunc dimittis servum tuum
Domine," etc. In eadem domo, modo in ecclesiam transmutata, beatus Simeon sepultus
quiescit, ut illc versus ibi appositus indicat. In eadem ecclesia infra in crypta retinentur
adhuc et ostcnduntur cum magna veneratione Christ! de ligno incunabula.'

' Appropinquante, ut diximus, Domini passione, post Lazari recuscitationem, die
palmarum venit Hierosolymam. Eodem die, solemnitate jam dicta peracta, rediit ad Oliveti
montana, moraturus ibi usque ad feriam quintam, in qua facturus erat una cum discipulis suis
ccenam dominicam, in qua veteris testamenti terminum novique testamenti initium posuit
Misit ergo in civitatcm, discipulis suis inquirentibus, ubi velit sibi pascha fieri, quosdam ex
eis, ut venirent et prjepararent sibi habitaculum vel locum ad complendum hujusmodi coenae
sacramenta idoneum, de quo plenius in Evangelio : " Ite in civitatem et invenietis hominem
amphoram aqus bajulantem, sequimini cum," etc. Hoc ccenaculum in monte Sion est inven-
tum, in eo loco, in quo Salomon quondam egregium dicitur construxisse aedificium, de quo
in Cantico Canticorum : " Ferculum fecit sibi rex Salomon," etc. Ccenaculum illud in
superiori parte grande erat ct latum, in cujus latitudine propter mysterii rationem Dominus
noster cum discipulis suis dicitur coenasse, ubi et proditorem suum cauta indicavit descriptione,
reliquos confortans de instante sibi passione et dans eis sub specie panis corpus suum ad
manducandum et sub specie vini sanguinem suum ad bibendum : " Quotiescunque," etc.,
dicens.

' Facta jam in superiori parte ejusdem habitaculi ccena, veri simile est ex ejusdem mysterii
ratione, Dominum nostrum, in inferior! domus parte, humilitatis exemplum in lavatione pedum
discipulorum ostendisse ; sive mavis hoc ante ccenam vel post factum fuisse, ut quredam
expositio innuit super illam litteram Evangelii Johannis : " Et facta ccena surre.xit," etc., sive
autem hoc ante vel post factum fuerit, parum refert ; sed hoc vel scire juvat, quod diversitatem
loci adhuc hodie descriptio rei gestre in ecclesia mentis Sion innuit. Nam in sinistra parte
ejusdem ecclesice, in loco superiori, depicta apparet ccena, in inferiori, scilicet in crypta,
lavatio pedum discipulorum ostenditur exhibita.

' His itaque consummatis mysteriis, orationis causa cum discipulis suis rediit ad
montem Oliveti, in cujus montis pede et accubitu, dimittens discipulos suos, solus secessit ab
eis, quantum erat jactus lapidis, scilicet Gethsemane. Oravit ad patrem suum, dicens :
" Pater, si fieri potest," etc., ubi et ex tremore carnis sudorem fudit quasi sanguineum, et, ad
discipulos suos reversus et inveniens eos dormientes, specialiter Pelrum increpavit, dicens :
" Non potuisti una hora vigilare mecum ?" et aliis discipulis : " Dormite jam et requiescite,'
etc. Sic vice tertia in eundem locum ab eis secedens et easdem preces Deo patri porrigens,
tandem confortatus a patre et a se ipso secundum quod Deus, tertio reversus ad discipulos,
dixit : " Vigilate et orate." Istorum locorum distinctio, videlicet, ubi discipuli remanserant,
et ubi Dominus oraverat, manifeste in valle Josaphat apparet ; nam juxta majorem ecclesiam,
in qua sepultura beatiE Maria; virginis, de qua postea dicemus, adhuc hodie in dextra parte
introitus sui est capella cum caverna, in qua discipuli tristes et dormitantes remanserant,
Domino ter secedenti ab eis et totiens redeunte. Hoc adhuc ibidem indicat pictura e.xistens.
Locus vero, ubi Dominus oravit, circumdatus est nova ecclesia, quae dicitur ecclesia salvatoris,
in cujus pavimento eminent tres non operati lapides, tamquam modicae rupes : in quibus
dicitur Dominus orasse cum trina genuflexione, ad quos lapides fit veneratio et fidelium
Christi oblatio cum devotione maxima. Ad prasdictam cavernam Dominus noster, noscens
cum turbis Judam appropinquare, Judas enim, aliis discipulis post ccenam cum Domino
remanentibus, solus abiit ad judajos, tractans cum eis de traditione Domini, mercedem pro-

JERUSALEM. 71

ditionis triginta argenteis ab eis recipiens,'cum turba jam appropinquavit : hoc, inquam, sciens
Jesus, in eadem caverna dixit discipulis suis : " Surgite, eamus ; ecce appropinquavit," etc.
Sic egressus Gethsemane, per osculuin Juda; cognitus, a cohorte transmissa est detentus,
vinctus et deductus. Verumtamen in prsefata caverna ostenduntur quinque foramina in uno
lapide, tamquam quinque digitis manus Domini impressa : Domini, dico, jam capti et a per-
secutoribus violenter tracti, veluti sese retinentis. Quidquid autem de hoc sit, nos procul
dubio scimus, eum majoris potestatis et virtutis ampliora potuisse facere.

' Traditus est, ut diximus, Dominus noster a discipulo suo, captus et ligatus a milite
romano, reductus ad montem Sion, ubi tunc erat prretorium Pilati, nuncupatum lithostrotos,
hebraice autem Gabatha. Tunc enim temporis optima pars et fortitudo totius civitatis erat
in altitudine ejusdem mentis, sicut etiam turris David, quje erat specula et tutamen reliquce
civitatis, erat in eo elevata, et ratione maternte generationis et procurationis inferior pars
ejusdem civitatis dicitur filia, unde : " Dicite, filis Sion," etc. Postea vero, destructa ibidem
civitate et in alium locum, ubi nunc exstat, translata sub Aelio imperatore, mons quoque idem
a sua celsitudine valde est humiliatus et ad^quatus, turre etiam sublata inde cum aliis
Eedificiis. Ostenditur autem hodie locus ille, ubi praetorium et turris David fuerat. Tunc
temporis juxta idem prastorium versus meridiem erat illud grande sedificium, ubi Dominus
ccenavit cum discipulis suis. Juxta idem prfetorium versus orientem erat atrium, in quod
vinctus ducebatur et tota nocte ilia retincbatur a custodibus et a judteorum principibus obser-
vantibus eum usque ad horam sistendi judicio in sequent! mane. In eodem praetorio Petrus
ter negavit Dominum ante galli cantum, ubi etiam, audito galli cantu. Domino eum respiciente,
pie reminiscens verbi Jesu, vere pcenituit, flevit amare, fugiens in cavernam, quaa modo galli-
cantus vulgariterque Galilaea appellatur.

' In monte Sion Christus discipulis suis apparuit, unde et hi versus inveniuntur ibi appositi
in dextro latere ecclesitc :

' Christus discipulis apparuit hie galiteis
surgens. Propterea locus est dictus Galilaea.

' In via, qua de Sion descenditur in vallem Josaphat, sub porta montis Sion, super eandem
cavernam, est ecclesia sedificata, quam hodie servant grseci monachi.

' Facto itaque sequenti mane judicio iniquo, damnatus ante prsetorium in loco quodam
flagellatur, alapis cEeditur, et conspuitur, veste rubea induitur, spinea corona pungitur. Quod
indicat epigramma ibidem positum sic continens :

' Iste coronatur, quo mundus jure regatur.

' Eundem locum designat capella ante majorem ecclesiam Sion, versus boream sita, con-
tinens picturam gestae rei cum tali epigrammate :

' Sanctus sanctorum damnatur voce reorum.
Pro servis bellum patitur Deus atque flagellum.
Haec bona crux Christi Simoni subvenit isti.
Non vehit banc gratis, qute dat bona cunctis beatis.

' Ab eodem loco, post sententiam crucis et damnationis in se prolatam, crucem ad hoc
prseparatam imposuerunt humero Domini, causa deferendi usque ad locum patibuli, ut ilia
impleretur prophetia : " Principatus ejus super humerum ejus," etc. Supervenit autem

72 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

quidam cyrcnxus, qucm angariavcrunt eandem cruccm portare usque ad locum Calvariae
propter mysteriuni.

' Erat tunc tcniporis juxta situm antiquoe civitatis locus Calvarine extra civitatcm, qui
addictus erat capilali scntentia daninalis, a quorum decalvatione, crinibus eorum abrasis, aura
consumtis eorum capitibus, etiam came denudatis at non in terra defossis, idem locus Cal-
varix diccbatur, vcl idco, quod in co rei decalvabantur, id est, damnari solebant. Idem vero
locus, qui et hcbraicc Golgatha, erat in veteri rupe, sicut et hodic passim extra civitates emi-
nentiora loca supplicio damnatorum sunt deputata. Interim dum in eadem rupe per affixionem
crux adaptaretur, Dominus noster in quodam loco, qui tunc campcstris erat, vinctus quasi in
carcere servabatur, qui locus nunc modum capelte reprcesentat et adhuc career Domini appel-
latur, et est, recte in opposita parte Calvarite, in sinistra absida ecclesise. Alii tamen aliter
de eodem sentiunt loco, sicut prisesens audivi.

' Post in loco Calvarise, Pilati jussu, judaeorum impulsu, Dominum nostrum tunica exutum,
fclle et accto potatum milites romani crucis patibulo affixerunt, in quo, dum pateretur Jesus,
niatrem suam Johannes, amicus suus, sibi commendatam in suam accepit custodiam, ut virgo
virginem custodiret, dicente Jesu matri suae : " Mulier, ecce filius tuus," demonstrationem, ut
quidam asserunt, ad Johannem vel potius ad se ipsum faciens, quasi diceret : Hoc modo
patior ex filiatione, quam ex tua contraho maternitate ; non autem ex ea habeo miracula
facere. Unde et alibi in nuptiis Chanse Galilseae : " Quid mihi et tibi, mulier ?" Sic ad
matrem ; deinde vero ad Johannem : " Ecce mater tua," scilicet, ratione filialis devotionis et
administrationis.

' In loco Calvariae, dum in cruce pateretur hostia'mundi, latroni pendenti ad dextram, ab
eo petenti veniam, stolam immortalitatis promisit. Crucis in patibulo perforatus lancea san-
guinem emisit et aquam : ex stilla quorum aperti sunt oculi Longini, qui eum percusserat
motu pietatis et confessionis, ne videlicet Jesus diutius vivens torqueretur. Domino nostro
sic in crucis patibulo exspirante et animam suam sponte deponente, velum templi scissum est
a summo usque deorsum, et eadem petra, in qua crux erat defixa, in ea parte, qua tangebatur
sanguine, est per medium fissa, per quam fissuram sanguis ejus fluxit ad inferiora, in quibus
dicitur a quibusdam Adam fuisse sepultum et sic in sanguine Christi baptizatum. Ad cujus
rei designationem dicunt, quasi caput mortuum ubique depingi ad pedes crucifixi ; sed nihil
est aliud, Adam in sanguine Christi baptizatum, quasi per sanguinem Christi redemtum, cum
in Hebron scriplura referat eum fuise sepultum. Per deformem autem hominis faciem, quce
solet apponi subtus ad pedes crucifixi, mors potius et ejus destructio designatur. Unde
Dominus : " O mors ero mors tua," id est, destructio tua. Locus quidem Calvarice est ad
dextram in introitu majoris ecclesise, in cujus superiori parte scissura ejusdem petrae Celebris
cum magna solemnitate veneratur et adhuc hodie advenientibus manifeste ostenditur.
Eadem pars superior optimo musivo opere pulchre depicta ; continetur passio Christi et ejus
sepultura cum prophetarum testimonio gesta; rei hinc inde consono.

' Nota, quod in eodem loco, sive crux fuerit infixa in rotundo foramine, quod adhuc
patens ostenditur et in quod oblationes immittantur fidelium, sive in parte ea, ubi hastile
cujusdam rotundi lapidis erectum ostenditur, ut quidam asserunt, et ut plus, quod ad situs
positionem et ad sanguinis ex dextro latere ad rimam petrte emissionem, congruum et ido-
neum esse videtur, facies Domini pendentis in cruce, ex positionis necessitate, versus orientem
declaratur posita fuisse.

' Juxta eundem locum in superiori parte ad dextram est altare situm, in honore dominicas
passionis consecratum, el totus locus ille denominatur ab eadem passione. Inferior vero pars

JERUSALEM. 73

ejusdem Calvarite subtus continet altare, et vocatur ad sanctum sanguinem, quia eo usque per
rimam petrse sanguis Domini dicitur fluxisse, qui locus hodie retro idem altare designatus
est per quamdam concavitatem ejusdem petrce, ubi dependet ampulla cum continua
illuminatione.

' Extra in introitu Calvaric^ (versus leguntur) :

' Hie locus insignis Calvaria sanctus habetur
pro duce, pro pretio, pro cruce, pro lavacro.
Nempe Jesu cruor et titulus, sacra corporis unda
nos salvat, redimit, protegit atque lavat.

' In medio choro dominorum, non longe a loco Calvariee, est quidam locus elevatione
tabularum de marmore et reticulorum ferreorum concatenatione in modum altaris designatus,
infra quas tabulas in pavimento, orbiculis quibusdam factis, medituUium terraj dicunt desig-
natum, juxta illud : " Operatus est salutem in medio terrre." In eodem quoque loco post
resurrectionem dicitur Dominus apparuisse beat^ Marice Magdalence, et idem locus habetur
in magna veneratione, lampade etiam intus dependente. In eodem quoque loco quidam
asserunt, quod Joseph corpus Jesu a Pilato impetravit ; eodem die, hoc est, feria sexta subla-
tum de cruce lavit reverende, pretiosis liquoribus atque aromatibus condiens involutum in
sindone munda ; baud longe sepelivit in horto, in monumento, quod novum sibi de rupe
sculpserat. Inde descendit ad inferos, ad liberandum hominem. In eodem loco surrexit
Dominus vere a mortuis, leo de tribu Juda, morte subacta. Ibi angelus Domini Sanctis
mulieribus apparuit, jam ab ostio monumenti lapide revoluto, Jesumque vere resurrexisse a
mortuis nunciavit, et ait ; " Ite, nunciate fratribus meis," et iterum : " Dicite discipulis ejus,
et Petro."

' Eodem die, declinante jam ad vesperam, peregrini sub specie Christus latens apparuit
duobus discipulis in via sub conquestu de morte illius tendentibus Nicopolim, id est Emmaus,
oppidum VI. milliario ab Jerusalem contra occidentem : quern et ibi secum receptum in hos-
pitem recognoverunt in fractione panis ; sed statim disparuit. Deinde omnibus apparuit
apostolis absque Thoma in monte Sion januis clausis, dicens eis : " Pax vobis." Octavo
quoque die in monte eodem apparuit Thomre cum reliquis discipulis, quando ei vulnera sua
palpanda obtulit. Quo facto Thomas intulit : " Dominus meus et Deus mens." Hte revela-
tiones per picturam demonstrantur facta^ in loco montis Sion, scilicet, in crypta majoris
ecclesise, ubi etiam depingitur Dominus noster pedes discipulorum suorum lavisse, cum mani-
festa utriusque facti descriptione. Post resurrectionem etiam secus mare Tiberiadis et in
mari ter discipulis suis Jesus se manifestavit, et pra^ter ha;c alibi multoties ad comprobationem
suK resurrectionis jam factce et nostra resurrectionis adhuc futurte.

' Dispositio monumenti, in quo continetur sepulchrum Domini, fere rotundam habet
formam, intus musivo opere decoratam. Patet ab oriente per introitum parvi ostioli, ante
quod habet protectum fere quadratum cum duabus januis. Per unam intromittuntur ingres-
suri monumentum ad sepulchrum, per alteram emittuntur egressuri. In eo quoque protecto
resident custodes sepulchri. Et tertium ostiolum habet versus chorum. Eidem monumento
ab occidente, videlicet ad caput sepulchri, forinsecus appositum est altare cum quadam quad-
rata superaedificatione, cujus parietes tres de reticulis ferramenti pulchre compositis sunt, et
vocatur illud altare ad sanctum sepulchrum. Idem monumentum satis amplum habet super
se quasi ciborium rotundum et superius de argento coopertum, in altum elevatum versus fora-
men illud amplum in majori illo sedificio superius patulum : quod sedificium circulariter cum

74 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

forma rotunda, circa monumentum satis amplum, in cxtrcmo habet continuum parietem
diversis imaginibus sanctorum large depictumet ornatum pluribusque lampadibus illuminatum.
In strictiori ambitu cjusdcm majoris sedificii octo columna; marmorcce rotundas et totidem
bases tjuadratx, totidem tabulis quadratis marmoreis forinsecus ornata; et circumquaque
erectse sustinent molem superiorem sub tecto, quod, ut diximus, patulum est in medio.

' Sequuntur aliqui versus, qui in locis diversis Icguntur.

'In supcrliminirari ecclesi.x sancti sepulchri :

' Quid, mulier, ploras ? en jam quem quneris, adoras.
Me dignum recoli, jam vivum tangcrc noli.

' In superliminari introitus interioris ad sepulchrum Domini :

' Christo surgcnti locus et custos monumenti
angelus et vestis fuit, estque redemtio testis.

' Intus ad depositioncm Domini :
' A caris caro cara Dei lacrimata levatur a cruce ; pro miseris rex pius hoec patitur.

' Intus prope ad Domini sepulturam :

' Conditur in tumulo conditus aromate Christus,
toUitur ad superos meriti moderamine Justus.
Gaudet homo, trepidant manes, gemit omnis abyssus.
Est exccssus Adce Christo venicnte rcmissus.

' Item ibidem, sed per medium :

' Sub tumulo lapidis dum sic Christus tumulatur,
ejus ad exequias homini co^lum reseratur.

' Diximus, quod columna; circularitcr cum prcedicto numero sint appositse ; sed modo
versus orientem mutata est earum dispositio et numerus propter adjectionem novce ecclesias,
ad quam inde est transitus. Et continet illud novum et de novo additum aedificium satis
amplum chorum dominorum et satis longum sanctuarium, contincns majus altare in honorem
anastaseos, id est, sanctx resurrectionis, consecratum, quod et superius apposita pictura in
opere musivo declarat. Continetur enim in ea imago Christi, seris confractis inferni, resur-
gentis, antiquum patrem nostrum Adam inde extrahentis. Extra hoc altaris sanctuarium et
intra claustri ambitum continetur satis latum spatium circumquaque tam per hoc novum,
quam per antiquum prsefati monumenti sedificium processioni idoneum, qua; et fit singulis
dominicis noctibus a pascha usque ad adventum Domini in vcsperis ad sanctum sepulchrum,
cum antiphona : "Christus resurgens," cujus etiam antiphona: textus extra in extremomargine
monumenti litteris in argento elevatis continetur. Finita ea antiphona per cantum, cantor
statim incipit : " Vespere autem," etc., cum psalmo : " Magnificat," et cum collecta de resur-
rcctione : Omnipotcns sempiterne, proemisso versiculo : Surrexit Dominus de hoc sepulchro.
Similiter per hoc tempus omni die dominico missa celebratur : Resurrexi.

' In capite etiam cjusdcm ecclesi^ novae versus orientem, juxta claustrum domi-
norum, est locus in profundo, in modum crypta:, cum magna satis serenitate, in quo regina
Helena crucem Domini dicitur reperisse, in cujus Helena; honorem ibidem continetur altare
consecratum : qua; regina majorem ejusdem ligni sacri partem sccum detulit Constantino-

JERUSALEM. 75

polim ; reliqua vero pars Hierosolymis rclicta diligenter et reverenter servatur in quodam loco,
in altera parte ecclesite, ex opposite loco Calvarije.

' Ejusdem loci, licet sanguine Christi ibidem effuso jam dudum consecrati, in modernis
temporibus, licet ex superabundant!, facta est a viris venerabilibus consecratio quinto decimo
die julii. Unde et tales versus sub quodam in littcris deaurato opere propositis adhuc tes-
tantur ibidem conscripti :

' Est locus iste sacer sacratus sanguine Christi.
Per nostrum sacrare sacro nil additur isti.
Sed domus huic sacro circum supersedificata
est quinta decima quintilis luce sacrata.

' Eodem quoque die, in eodem mense, licet longe jam anteriori tempore, cum jam dudum
eadem civitas sancta sub dominatu sarracenorum diversorum generum detineretur captiva, ab
exercitu christianorum est liberata, ad cujus liberationis commemorationem eundem diem
post consecrationis renovationem cum spirituali ofificio reddunt celebrem in priori missa
decantando : " La;tare, Jerusalem ;" majorem vero missam celebrant de dedicatione :
" Terribilis est locus." Nam eodem die quatuor etiam altaria in eadem ecclesia sunt conse-
crata, scilicet, altare majus et illud superius in Calvaria et duo in latere ecclesiae ex opposita
parte, unum videlicet in honorem sancti Petri et aliud in honorem sancti Stephani proto-
martyris.

'In sequenti die solemnem faciunt tam in eleemosynis, quam in orationibus commemora-
tionem omnium fidelium defunctorum, prjEcipue occasione in cxpugnatione urbis occisorum,
quorum maxime sepultura apud portam auream Celebris habetur. In tertio die anniversarium
ducis felicis memoriae et egregii Gotefridi, illius sanctse expeditionis principis et magistri,
stirpe alemanorum oriundi, tota civitas solemniter observat cum larga eleemosynarum in
majori ecclesia distributione ex sui ipsius adhuc viventis dispositione.

' Verumtamen, quamvis sic ibidem de suo honoretur, tamen expugnatio civitatis non ei
cum alemannis, non minime in ea expeditione laborantibus et exercitatis, sed solis adscribitur
francis. Unde etiam detractores nostra: gentis epitaphium illius famosi Wiggeri, per multa
forlia facta approbati, quia non poterant eum denegare esse alemannum, deleverunt et cujus-
dem militis de Francia superposuerunt, sicut adhuc a praesentibus videri potest ; nam ejus
sarcophagus extra in angulo quodam inter majorem ecclesiam et sancti Johannis Baptistje
capellam adhuc hodie exstans apparet, deleto inde nomine suo et apposito alieno. Ad com-
probationem et indicium despectus virorum nostrorum et ad commendationem francorum
tale epigramma ad monumentum in latere extra legitur appositum :

' Anno centeno milleno quo minus uno
virginis a partu, Domini, qui claruit, ortu,
quindecies julio jam phcebi lumine tacto,
Jerusalem franci capiunt virtute potenti.
' Contra quod ego :

' Non franci, sed francones, gladio potiores,
Jerusalem sanctam longo sub tempore captam
a paganorum solvere jugo variorum.
Franco, non francus, Wigger, Guntram, Gotefridus
dux, argumento sunt hsec fore cognita vero.

lO 2

76 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' Quamvis autcm dux Golefridus et frater ejus Balduinus, qui post ipsum in Jerusalem
rex est constitutus, quod ante eum dux humilitatis causa de se fieri recusavit, de nostris essent
partibus, tanicn quia, nostratum paucis cum eis remanentibus ct aliis quampluribus magno
dcsiderio ct festinationc ad natalc solum redeunlibus, tola civitas occupata est ab aliis
nationibus, scilicet, francis, lotharingis, normannis, provincialibus, alvernis, italis et hispanis
et burgundionibus simul in expcditionc convenientibus, sicut nulla pars civitatis etiam in
minima plalca csset alemannis dislributa. Ipsis non curantibus, ncc animum ibidem rema-
nendi habenlibus, tacito eorum nomine, solis francis liberatio sanctce urbis adscribitur, qui et
hodie cum aliis pra^nominatis gentibus urbi prsefatre, adjaccnti provincial dominantur. Qure
utique christianitatis provincia jam dudum suos terminos ultra Nilum versus meridiem et ultra
Damascum versus septentrionem extendisset, si tanta copia alemanorum, quanta est istorum,
adesset. Scd, his imprnesentiarum omissis, ad propositam materiam revertamur.

' In montc Oliveti, in eo loco, ubi hodie exstat magna ecclesia, in cujus medio,
magno foramine quodam aperto, designatur locus ascensionis dominicas, a quo loco, disci-
pulis suis aliisque viris galilceis una cum matre sua admirantibus, in coelum nube bajula est
clevatus, pr^misso ad discipulos mandato, ne ab Hierosolymis discederent, priusquam
spiritum paraclitum a patre promissum ad plenariam sui confortationem acciperent. Quod ct
factum est decimo die ab ascensione Domini et quinquagesimo die a resurrectione Domini,
videlicet in die pentecostes, discipulis in quodam conclavi illius prsefati a;dificii in monte
Sion manentibus, ubi et Dominus noster dicitur ccenasse, in completione promissi exspectan-
tibus, quod adhuc in eodem loco pictura exstante de musivo opere in sanctuario, abside ejus,
dem ecclesiae, demonstratur ; nam ibi duodenarius apostolorum numerus cum ipsorum imagi-
nibus, spiritu sancto in forma ignearum linguarum ad capita singulorum descendente, per
similitudinem picturx continctur, cum tali epigrammate ; " Factus est repente de ccelo sonus
advenientis," etc.

' In eadem ecclesia, ad doxtram scilicet in introitu ejus, altare designatur locus cum politis
tabulis de marmore in modum ciborii, ubi beata virgo Maria, cmisso spiritu, prxsenti dicitur
migrasse ssculo, ubi et filius suus, Dominus noster Jesus Christus, animam suam in juxta
posito pariete, praesentibus apostolis, dcpingitur assumere. In adificio autem eidem loco
superposito in circuitu talis reperitur superscriptio : Exaltata est sancta Dei genitrix super
choros angelorum.

' His visis et summatim locis, in quibus hxc acta sunt cum descriptione etiam
aliorum locorum his adjaccntium denotatis, ad ipsam etiam sanctam civilatem Jerusalem per
sancta nova et venerabilia loca de novo exstructa et in cultum divinum mancipata intra niuros
describenda redeamus.

' Hoc etiam per adjectionem cognito, quod Judas in eadem civitate argenteos accepit pro
traditione Domini noslri, cum quibus emtus est ager illc Hakcldama, id est, ager sanguinis,
deputatus sepulturse peregrinorum usque in diem hodiernum, qui situs est ad sinistram montis
Sion, secus viam, qure ducit Ephrata. Super quern agrum est mons Gion junctus, in quo
rex Salomon regium diadcma suscepit et alii reges in eodem monte inungi solebant.

' Et nota, quod Dominus noster in medio Jerusalem suscitavit puellam a morte, et in ea
multa est operatus miracula. Juxta ecclesiam sancti sepulchri, quam superius descripsimus,
ex opposito versus meridiem est pulchra ecclesia in honore sancti Johannis Baptista; con-
structa, cui adjectum est hospitale, in quo per diversas mansiones maxima multitudo infir-
morum, tarn mulierum, quam virorum, colligitur, fovctur ct maximis expensis quotidie reficitur :
quorum summa tunc temporis, cum essem prjesens, ab ipsis servitoribus hoc referentibus ad duo

JERUSALEM. 77

millia languentium fuisse cognovi, ex quibus aliquando intra noctem et diem plus quara quin-
quaginta mortui exportantur, iterum atque iterum pluribus de novo accedentibus. Quid
plura ? Eadem domus tot homines tam extra, quam intus suis sustentat victualibus, prseter
inlinitam eleemosynam, quje quotidie pauperibus datur ostiatim panem qusrentibus et extra
manentibus, quod certe summa sumtaum nequaquam potest deprehendi etiam ab ejus domus
procuratoribus et dispensatoribus. Prreter horum omnium siquidem expensam tam in infir-
mis, quam in pauperibus aliis factam, eadem domus multas universis militaribus rebus
instructas pro defensione terree christianorum ab incursione saracenorum passim per castella
sua sustentat personas. Juxta eandem Johannis ecclesiam est coanobium sanctimonialium
in honorem sanctte Marije constructum, et est fere contiguum in capite cum redificiis prajfatas
ecclesias vocaturque ad sanctam Mariam majorem. Non longe abhinc, in eodem ordine
ejusdem platere, est ccenobium monachorum, item in honorem sancta; Marix constructum et
vocatur ad sanctam Mariam latinam, ubi testa vel caput sancti Philippi apostoli in magna
veneratione habetur, et etiam cum devotione advenientibus et id postulantibus osten-
ditur.

'Juxta illam plateam, qute a porta David versus templum per descensum dirigitur, in
latere dextro, prope turrim David est ccenobium monachorum armenorum in honore sancti
Sabse, abbatis reverendissimi, pro quo etiam adhuc vivente beata virgo Maria, multa fecit
miracula, constructum. Ibidem, non longe abhinc, per descensum ultra aliam plateam est
magna ecclesia in honorem sancti Jacobi majoris constructa, ubi monachi habitant armeni, et
habent etiam ibidem magnum hospitale pro colligendis pauperibus suk lingure. Ibi quoque
in magna veneratione habetur testa ejusdem apostoli ; fuit enim ab Herode decollatus, cujus
corpus discipuli sui in Joppe navi impositum in Galiciam detulerunt, capite suo in Patestina
remanente. Eadem testa adhuc in eadem ecclesia peregrinis advenientibus ostenditur.

' In descensu ejusdem platea;, versus portam, qua itur ad templum, ad dextram manum
est quoddam diverticulum per longam porticum, in qua via est hospitale cum ecclesia, quce fit
de novo in honore sanctam Marine, et vocatur domus alemannorura, cui pauci vel nulli alterius
linguffi homines aliquid boni conferunt,

'In eadem via versus portam, qua itur ad montem Sion, est qujedam capella in
honore sancti Petri sdificata, in cujus crypta satis in profundo abscondita dicitur career fuisse,
in quo beatus Petrus, ferreis catenis ligatus, custodia militum tam extra, quam intus adhibita,
jussu Herodis diligenter servabatur ; sed ea diligentia elusa est divina potentia. Nam eadem
nocte, angeli obsequio, inter niedios custodes, vinculis ferreis ruptis, ultro apertis ostiis tam
carceris, quam civitatis, beatus Petrus angeli conductu abivit illsesus, dicens : " Nunc scio vere,
quia misit Dominus angelum suum," etc. In introitu ejusdem ecclesiolse de eodem facto
ibidem miraculo tales leguntur appositi versus :

' Vestibus indutus, Petre, surge, recede solutus ;
namque catenarum sunt vincula rupta tuarum,
nunc scio re certa, cum porta mihi sit aperta.
O pietas Christi, quoniam me salvificasti.

' In cavea ejusdem ecclesise ad vincula, sancti Petri festo ibidem existente celebri, missam
celebravi cum coUecta merito ibidem sic prolata : Deus, qui beatum Petrum apostolum a vin-
culis in hoc loco absolutum illaesum abire fecisti, etc. Ecclesiola eadem modica est, nee
odea reditibus ditata vel culta ornatu, sicut tantum divinura miraculum et tantum principem

78 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

apostolorum deceret. Porta ilia, qua dirigitur versus montera Sion, vocatur porta ferrea, quae
ultro fuit aperta angelo et I'etro.

' In opposite atrii de templo, scilicet versus septentrionem ad portam, qua itur ad vallem
Josaphat, est ecclesia magna in honore sanctoe Anna; constructa, in qua per picturam osten-
ditur, qua dispositione et admonitione divina ex ipsa et Joachim sit concepla beata virgo,
sicut in vita beala; Anna; largius cognoscitur, cujus festum in die sancti Jacobi majoris cum
magna solemnitate ibidem celebratur : cui prsesens interfui. In eadem ecclesia servit Deo
collegium sanctimonialium et utinam sacrosanctarum. In exitu ejusdem ecclesije, ad dex-
tram manum non longe, per diverticulum est probatica piscina, quam tempore Jesu certis
terminis angelus Domini solebat movere. Quicunque autcm infirmus post motionem aquae
prior intrabat, a quacunque detinebatur infirmitate, saniis fiebat. notJiSars* groece pecualis
dicitur, eo quod in sacrificiis inde solebant ablui exta pecudum ; erat quippe rubea aqua ex
hostiis, qure ibi mundabantur. Ante probaticam piscinam languidum sanitati restituit Jesus,
dicens ei : " Tolle grabatum tuum et ambula."

' Inde ab eadem platea, qua: de porta Josaphat egreditur, sursum in proxima via, quse ab
hac declinat platea, ad dcxtram manum, sursum versus murum civitatis est ilia ecclesia in
honore sanctK Maria Magdalense facta, ubi sunt monachi jacobitK, de qua jam diximus, quae
dicenda novimus. In praefata platea de porta vallis Josaphat itur per directum versus illam
plateam, qua; ad portam sancti Stephani ducit, a qua deinde a septentrione versus plateas
illas triplices, imo multiplices diversarum rerum venalium reprrensatrices, ad frontem majoris
sancti sepulchri ecclesia dirigitur, in medio, iiTquam, illius plateae est quidam arcus lapideus
antiquus ultra eandem plateam incurvatus, sub quo dicitur beata virgo Maria cum felici et
beata prole sua adhuc parvula et infantili quievisse et eidem lac ibidem praebuisse. Qua; res
gesta ibi facta pictura ostenditur, et idem locus, circumsdificatione aliquantula a publico
usu discretiis, sine ecclesiae appositione venerabilis, sub veneratione debita habetur et
colitur.

' Item de platea a porta s. Stephani, directa sursum ad latus ecclesiae sancti sepulchri, non
multum longe ab ea versus septentrionem, est parva platea, juxta quam in quadam ecclesia
syrorum quiescit sacrum divi Charitonis martyris corpus, quod ibi a syris monachis in magna
veneratione habetur, et fere adhuc integrum in quadam lignea arcellula reconditum, elevate
cooperculo, peregrinis advenientibus ostenditur. Idem sanctus pater in ccenobio sue juxta
fluvium Jordanis site, una cum monachis suis, pro confessione nominis Christi a sarracenis
fuit occisus.

' Ante portam Jerusalem, quae respicit ad occasum, qua parte liberata fuit urbs sub
secundo Israel, saxis obrutus beatus Stephanus protomartyr occubuit : inde translatus in Sion
et sepultus inter Nicodcmum et Gamalielem et Abibon, postea Constantinopoli, ad ultimum
Romae beato Laurentio contumulatus. Unde et in tumulo :

' Quem Sion occidit, nobis Bisancia misit.

' Ante portam Jerusalem juxta lacum, qui respicit meridiem, cavea ilia videtur, in quam
leo quidam, jussu Dei omnipotcntis, martyrum fere duodecim millia sub Cosroe peremta de-
tulit nocte. Unde ct carnarium leonis dicitur.

'Secundo milliario ab Jerusalem via, quae ducit Sichem, mons Gabaa in tribu Ben-
jamin.

' Milliario a Jerusalem, in accubitu mentis Oliveti, mons Offensionis et continuus ; dividit

JERUSALEM. 79

autem eos via, quae de Josapliat per Bethphage ducit Bethaniam. Dictus mons Offensionis,
eo quod Salomon in eo idoluni posuit moloch, adorans eum.

' Prope juxta Jerusalem, sub Salomonis regia in accubitu, in valle Josaphat natatoria Siloe,
ad quam coecum ab ea illuminatum misit Jesus, ut ab ea lavaret oculos suos. Qui abiens
lavit et vidit. Ergo Siloe interpretatur missus. Non ad eandam aquam Naaman, princeps
Syrise, missus est, sed ad Jordanem ab HelisKO propheta, ut in eo ter lotus curaretur a lepra :
quam ipse intuens quasi cum indignatione intulit : " Numquid Pharphar et Abana non
meliora sunt flumina," scilicet, nostra provincias ? Tandem tamen monitis servi sui consen-
tiens, mandatum propbetre implevit, et curatus est. Siloe secundum traditionem syrorum ex
Silo manare dicitur. Siloe gurgitem suum cum silentio ducit, quia subterraneum. Juxta
Siloe exstitit quercus Rogel, sub qua beatus Isaias sepultus quiescit.

' In valle Josaphat sepultus fuit beatus Jacobus Alphsei, qui de templo, ut dictum est,
prtecipitatus fuit. Est autem in eadem valle pulchra capella, in qua indicium manet sepul-
turse ejus, his superpositis versibus :

' Urgent Alphsei natum sine lege judsei.
. Causa necis fit ei nomen amorque Dei.

Alphcei natus de templo prKcipitatus

hue fuit allatus et devote tumulatus.

' Verum exinde postea fuit apostolus Dei Constantinopolim translatus.

' In valle Josaphat sub acuta pyramide rex idem Josaphat tumulatus fuit, a cujus nomine
tota vallis sortita est nomen. Interpretatur autem vallis judicii, juxta illud : " Congregabo
omnes gentes," etc. Eadem vallis ex omni parte plures habet caveas, in quibus religiose
personre vitam ducunt eremiticam.

'Tota vallis pertinet ad ccenobium in summitate ejusdem vallis supra rivum torrentis
Cedron situm, juxta hortum, in quo soepe Dominus noster cum discipulis suis solebat conve-
nire. In hujus ccenobii crypta adhuc hodie ostenditur sepultura beatissima; virginis Maria;,
de qua amplius dicemus.

' In eodem die transmigrationis corpus beatissimje virginis Maria; cunctis duode-
cim apostolis Domini ex sua dispositione tunc pra^sentibus in ecclesiam vallis Josaphat est
delatum et ibidem in medio cryptae, miro tabulatu marmoreo et egregia pictura colore vario
exornatse, est honorifice sepultum, cujus sepulture, licet corpore absente, egregia tam in tabu-
latu marmoreo, quam in argento et auro in modum ciborii superposita exstat structura : cui
tale appositum est epigramma :

' Hie Josaphat vallis, hinc est ad sidera callis.
In Domino fulta, fuit hie Maria sepulta.
Hinc exaltata coelos petit inviolata,
spes captivorum, via, lux et mater eorum.

' Benedicto corpore absente, quia, ut dicitur, juxta morem hebroeorum intra octavum diem
transitus visitato et inspecto sepulchro, corpus ejus non est repertum. Unde et pie creditur,
non tantum animam, sed etiam corpus ejus a dilecto filio suo cum glorificatione fuisse assum-
tum, quod tamen Hieronymus potius hxsitando, quam asserendo videtur innuere in ilia epis-
tola : Cogitis me, o Paula et Eustochium, etc.- Quidquid autem de hoc sit, nos credimus,
beatam virginem Mariam ex hoc solo, quod meruit suum portare creatorem, dignam fore

So TFIE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

onini honore et beatificationc non tantum in anima, sed etiam in corpore, et filium suura
siimme benevolum et summe potentera id velle et posse. Honoratur quoque et veneratur
cadem ejus sepultura ratione cujusdam consortii, ad sirailitudinem honorificenti;ie, qua; sepul-
chro dilccti filii sui cxhibetur. In introitu cjusdem cryptx talis pictura et scriptura cernitur :

' Haeredes vit^, Dominum laudare venite,
per quam vita datur mundique salus reparatur.

* Ex parte sinistra imago Hieronymi hanc continet scripturam.

'Monstratur autem sepulchrum ejus, cernentibus nobis, usque in prxsens in valle Josa-
phat, in medio, ubi in ejus honore fabricata est ecclcsia miro lapideo tabulatu, in qua sepulta
fuisse ab omnibus affirmatur. In dextra vero ejusdem introitus imago beati Basilii continet
hicc :

' Matris Christi dignitate

et excelsa potestate

est repertus Julianus,

sKvus hostis et profanus ;

nam defunctum hunc proslravit,

sicut mater imperavit.

Salvatrici sit reginaj

laus et honor sine fine,

qua: elegit hie humari.

' Hxc et alia plurima ad laudem virginis in introitu cryptK per picturam sunt apposita ;
sed interior! parte in parietibus hinc inde circa tumbam existentibus et in laqueari talis scrip-
tura est apposita, in dextro pariete : Maria virgo assumta est ad sethereum thalamum, etc. ;
postea in circuitu : Vidi speciosam sicut columbam, etc., usque : et lilium convallium, ibique
subjungitur : Viderunt earn filial Sion. Hinc certe gloriosa virgo ccelos ascendit. Rogo,
gaudete, quia ineffabiliter sublimata cum Christo regnat in scternum ; in anteriori : Assumta
est Maria in ccclum ; ex opposite latere : Exaltata est sancta Dei genitrix, etc. ; et in medio :
Multitudo angelorum adstantium in circuitu circa beatam Mariam in throno residentem, per
quam facta via ad ccelestia regna declaratur.

• In pede mentis Olivcti versus civitatem, ubi modo ostenditur sepultura beata; Marice
virginis, erat viculus, qui dicebatur Gethsemane.'

We may now pass on to consider the later Arab erections in Jerusalem,
for the three centuries immediately following the time of Saladin's capture
form a period of great architectural activity among the Arabs.

Immediately after the fatal battle of Hattin, Jerusalem capitulated to
Saladin in 1 187 a.d. The Haram was forthwith purified, the altar over the
Sakhrah and the pictures on the walls of the building were demolished.
The beautiful Mimbar, or pulpit, now in the Aksa, bearing the date
1 168 A.D. (564 A.H.), was brought from Aleppo by Saladin for the newly
recovered mosque, and the transept of the Aksa was restored in the same

JERUSALEM. 8i

year, when also the present Mihrab was constructed in the south wall, as
shown by a fine Arabic inscription in mosaic above the Mihrab, contain-
ing the name of Saladin, and the date 583 a.h.

Two years later the gilding of the woodwork inside the dome of the
Kubbet es Sakhrah and the leaden outer covering was renewed by
Saladin, as witnessed by the Arab inscription bearing the date 585 a.m.
Other restorations of this painted cupola are dated 718 and 719 a.ii., and
another date of the seventeenth century inserted into these inscriptions is
partly illegible.

In the year 1199 a.d., the Emir Azz ed Din, Governor of Jerusalem,
entirely rebuilt the small Dome of the Ascent (of Mohammed), the
present Kubbet el Miraj. The date given by Mejr ed Din agrees
closely with that mentioned in a long inscription over the door of this
structure, which gives 597 a.ii. (1200 or 1199 a.d.) as the time of the
building of the Dome, which stands immediately north-west of the Dome
of the Rock.

In the year 12 13 a.d., the north-western cloisters of the Haram were
built as far as the present Bab el 'Atm, by Melek Isa (according to Mejr
ed Din). In the year 1236, Melek el Muazzam Isa built (or restored)
the porch of el Aksa, according to an existing inscription ; and other
restorations of the porch and of the mosque are recorded in inscriptions
bearing the dates 746 (1345 a.d.), 748 (1347 a.d.), 915 (1509 a.d.), 1233
(1817 a.d.).

In 1250 A.D. was built the Kubbet Musa, near the Bab es Silsileh,
according to Mejr ed Din, who gives the name of the founder as Melek
Saleh Nejm ed Din, and the date as 647 a.ii. The minaret in the north-
west angle of the Haram was built apparently in 697 a.h. (1297 a.d.), or
even earlier, in the time of Kalawun (Mejr ed Din). An inscription on a
pillar-base at the entrance to the magazines east of el Aksa states that
the wall (the outer wall of the Haram) was repaired in the time of
Self ed Din Kalawun (1279-90). It is well cut in Arabic letters in
relief

The western cloisters were built in the time of Melek Nasr Muhammed,
son of Kalawlin, those in the north corner being as old as 707 a.h.
(1307 A.D.); and those between Bab el Mogharbi and Bab es Silsileh
dating from 713 (13 13 a.d.), according to Mejr ed Din, who appears

1 1

82 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

throughout to have had regard to existing inscriptions. Another minaret
was erected in the north-east angle by Sultan Ashraf Ibn Husein, in 769
(1367 A.D.), and others near Bab el 'Atm and Bab Hitta by Melek Efkad.
Thus part of the northern cloisters arc 150 years older than those on the
west. The Bab cl Kattanin bears an inscription with the date "j^)! ■^•"•
(1336 A.D.). The gate called Bab en Nedhir is said by Mejr ed Din to
have been repaired about 600 A.ti. (1203 a.d.). The Bab cl Iladid was
built by Arjim cl Kamcli. There arc now four minarets, namely,
that of Sultan Ashraf, on the north-east ; that of Kalawun, on the
north-west angle ; that by the Bab es Silsileh, and the fourth on the
south.

In the year 13 18 a.d. Fakhr cd Din, the Kadi of Jerusalem, restored
the Dome of the Rock. In 1327 IMuhammed Ibn Kalawtjn ordered the
restoration of the dome of the Aksa Mosque, as evidenced by an existing
inscription in the woodwork bearing the date 728 a.h. To the same reign
belongs the fountain of el Kas, north of the Aksa, dated 720 A.ii.( 1320 a.d.).
The north-east minaret (1367 a.d.) is the latest known addition of this
century.

The beautiful Sebil, or fountain of Kaiat Bey, bears the date
1445 A.D., and was erected by Melek cl Ashraf The south-west flight of
stairs to the platform is said by Mejr ed Din to have been built later than
the others on this side, and to date from 877 a.ii. (1472 a.d.).

In the year 1520 a.d. the bases and the blocks above the capitals of
the outer arcade in the Dome of the Rock were cased in marble by
Sultan Suleiman. The beautiful glass windows of the building belong to
the same reign, and bear the date 935 a.ii. (or 1528 a.d.). An inscription
with the date 969 a.ii. (1561 a.d.) is found on the Kishani tiles of the
Dome of the Chain, with the name of Soliman, son of Selim, son of
Bayazid the Sultan ; and one year before his death the same Sultan
Soliman caused the present doors of the Dome of the Rock to be added
in 972 A.H. (1564 A.D.).

The only important restoration dating later than 1564 a.d. is that of
the ceiling of the arcade of the Dome of the Rock, which, as at present
existing, was erected in 1190 a.h. (1776 a.d.). The Mimbar es Self
belongs to the sixteenth century. Restorations were, however, effected
in 1830, by the Sultan INIahmud, and in 1S73-5, by order of the late

JERUSALEM. 83

Sultan, Abd el 'Aziz. The east wall of the Haram was partly ruined in
1 88 1, the small Arab masonry having fallen, and this is now about to be
repaired.

Having thus pursued the architectural history of the Haram down to
the present day, we must turn back to notice other buildings in Jerusalem
dating later than the capture by Saladin in 1187 a.d. The walls of the
city were dismantled in 12 19 a.d. by Melek el Muazzam Isa, but the
citadel on the west and the Haram on the east were left uninjured. In
1229 the Franks, contrary to treaty obligation, rebuilt the fortifications,
but in 1239 they were again levelled by Emir Daud, of Kerak, and even
the citadel was on this occasion dismantled. The fortifications remained
lying in heaps until 1542, when Soliman the Magnificent built the present
fortifications, as evidenced by Arabic inscriptions on the city gates, and
elsewhere on the walls. Much old material was re-used. Several Greek
inscribed tablets are built into the ramparts, and fragments of mouldings ;
but the elegant pinnacles over the Damascus Gate, and along the walls,
were evidently carved on purpose for their present positions.

In the thirteenth, fourteenth, and sixteenth centuries various Jewish
pilgrims wrote short accounts of Jerusalem ; and an even earlier Jewish
author (Benjamin of Tudela) has described the city briefly in 1163 a.d.
In these itineraries the Tombs of the Kings are first mentioned as
situated on Sion, whence arose the Moslem tradition placing David's
tomb at the site of the Coenaculum, which was on this pretext wrested
from the Christians in 1561 a.d. The present cenotaph, or one very
similar, is shown in a rude sketch in the Jichus ha Aboth in
1564 A.D.

Mejr ed Din enumerates various schools and public buildings of the
fourteenth century in Jerusalem, including the school of the Emir Tunjuz,
opposite the Bab es Silsileh, built in 720 a.h. (1320 a.d.). There were ten
pious foundations on the west, and fourteen on the north of the Haram.
The Church of St. Anne was converted into a school by Saladin, and
known as the Salahiyeh. An inscription on the principal door bore the
date equivalent to 1192 a.d. This building remained in the hands
of the Moslems until 1856, when the Sultan presented it to the
French.

The Hospital of St. John was not injured by the Moslems, though

1 1 — 2

84 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

the Church of Sta Maria Majora was wrecked. On the north-west
corner of the hospital a minaret was erected, apparently by Melek Muzaffer,
who endowed the hospital in 1216 a.d. The small mosque in this corner,
still in use, appears to be the place called the Cell of Dcrkah by Mcjr ed
Din. The present Khankah, north of the Holy Sepulchre, appears also
to be mentioned by the same author as founded in 585 a. 11. (1189 a.d.).
The Khankah of Fakhr, near the mosque of the Mughrabins, was founded
by the Kadi of Jerusalem, Fakhr ed Din, in 732 a.ii. (1332 a.d.). The
mosque of the Mughrabins was erected earlier by the son of Saladin in
589 A.II. (1193 A.D.) ; but its minaret was only added in 791 a.h.
(1389 A.D.). The Church of the Magdalen was converted into a school
by Maimi:in, son of Abdallah el Kasri, and endowed in 593 a.ii. (1197 a.d.).
This Emir was Saladin's treasurer.

Mejred Din devotes a whole chapter to the minarets of Jerusalem.
A minaret at St. Anne's was erected by Sheikh Borhan ed Din before
820 A.II. (141 7 A.D.). That at the Cell of Derkah, being overthrown by
earthquake in 863 a.ii., was restored in 870 a.h. (1463 a.d.), and is still
standing south of the Holy Sepulchre.

Our knowledge of the streets, quarters, and gates of Jerusalem in the
middle ages is very full and accurate, for we have not only the detailed
description of the ' Citez de Jherusalem,' written shortly after the capture
by Saladin, and the faithful account of Mejr ed Din, who was Kadi of
Jerusalem in 1495 a.d., but we have also the curious map of Marino
Sanuto, dating from 1308 a.d. (cf. De Vogue's ' Eglises de la Terre
Sainte,' p. 437, and Bongar's ' Gesta Dei per Francos'). In this latter,
the traditional sites now pointed out by the Latins and Greeks nearly all
appear in their present positions, though many of the traditions have been
transferred from sites mentioned by the Christian pilgrims of the centuries
preceding the Crusades, Most of these traditional sites remained quite
undisputed till the commencement of the present century, and they are
all still firmly credited by Greek and Roman Catholic pilgrims and
writers, though they are not all considered as equally well authenticated
by the educated Latin clergy, who allow that w^hile the acceptation of the
more important and ancient is a matter of faith, the less important may
be held to be only probable and conjectural. It is interesting, however,
to notice how the number of traditional sites, consecrated by buildings

JERUSALEM. 85

often still existing, increases steadily in succeeding centuries from the
original pair of sites of the time of Helena — the churches of Olivet and
of Sion. The site of Stephen's martyrdom, of the Pool of Bethesda, of
the Flagellation, and of the tomb of St. James, are the most important of
those which were changed in the twelfth century.

Claude R. Conder, Capt., R.E.

HISTORY OF JERUSALEM EXPLORATION.

Explorations in Jerusalem may be said to have been first initiated by
Constantine and his mother Helena, when they excavated the supposed
Holy Sepulchre. From that time to the present day the city and its
sites have again and again been described by Christian and Moslem
writers in each succeeding century.

The earliest Christian account is that of the Bordeaux Pilgrim (in
333 A.D.). The Basilica of the Anastasis is fully described by Euscbius
(' Vita Constantini,' iii. 34 to 39). Short notices also occur of the city
in the ' Onomasticon,' in the letters of Jerome (especially that describing
Sta Paula's journey), and in the Homilies of the Patriarch St. Cyril.
In the fifth century we have the valuable tract of Eucherius (427-440 a.d.),
and certain notices in the works of Epiphanius ; and Procopius (' De
yEdificiis Justiniani ') in the sixth century, with Theodorus the Architect
(530 A.D.), are the next in order ; while the credulous pilgrim, Antony of
Piacenza, visited the city about 600 a.d. In 6S0 Arculphus made his
pilgrimage, and his tract is of great importance. St. Willibald (723 a.d.),
Bernard the Wise (867 a.d.), and Soewulf (1102-1103 a.d.), describe the
city before its restoration by the Crusaders.

The history of William of Tyre contains many valuable indications con-
cerning Jerusalem topography, and we have several very important tracts
of the twelfth century, including that of Theodoricus (11 72 a.d.), Fetellus
(1150 A.D.), and the ' Citez de Jherusalem' (probably dating about
1 187 A.D.). John of Wirtzburg's description is also valuable — he died in
1 213 A.D. ; and the ' Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre ' contains important
ecclesiastical notices.

JERUSALEM. 87

In the twelfth century also Benjamin of Tudela gives a short account
from a Jewish point of view, and other Jewish tracts dating 12 10, 1322,
1 537' 1 56 1, contain short notes of Jewish traditions. The work of
Brocardus in 1283 a.d. contains another account of the city ; and in the
fourteenth century we have the description of Sir John Maundeville
(1322 A.D.), and the map and description of Marino Sanuto (1322 a.d.).
It is, however, doubtful whether the latter writer had visited Palestine.
The account of Mejr ed Din is the best extant of the Arab writings con-
cerning Jerusalem, and dates about 1495 a.d. The pilgrim John Poloner,
in 1422 A.D., also gives an account from a Christian point of view.

Quaresmius, a Latin monk residing at Jerusalem, wrote an account of
the Holy Land in 1616 a.d., which Includes a description of Jerusalem,
chiefly from a traditional point of view. Henry Maundrell, Chaplain of
the Aleppo Factory, also gives a very intelligent sketch of the city in
1697 A.D. Reland in 1714 a.d., Pococke in 1737, and Chateaubriand in
1807, bring us down to the commencement of the present century, when
the idea of critical e.xploration may be said first to have arisen.

The traditional site of the Holy Sepulchre was first disputed by Korte,
the German bookseller, who wrote an interesting tract in 1738 a.d.; but
scientific exploration dates from the first visit of Dr. Robinson, in 1838,
when that famous traveller laid down as a canon of criticism the worthless-
ness of monkish tradition. Since this date the traditional view has been
advocated by Canon Williams in 1S49 ; while Thrupp in 1S55, and Tobler
in 1845-55, added to the existing information. The valuable editions of
Christian descriptions published by Tobler began to appear in 1851, while
the latest of these Palcstiiut: Dcscriptioncs appeared in 1S74. Mr. James
Fergusson's earliest work on the topography of Jerusalem is dated 1847,
and his latest (' Temples of the Jews') appeared in 1878. Amongst other
authorities who wrote before the Ordnance Survey was undertaken, the
most important are: Willis (1S49), Lewin (1863), Stanley (1856), De
Saulcy (1865), Barclay (1857), Vandevelde, and the important publica-
tions of the Due de Vogiie, including the ' Eglises de la Terre Sainte'
(i860) and the 'Temple de Jerusalem' (1864).

Plans of Jerusalem were executed by Sieber in 181 8, by Catherwood
in 1833, by Robinson 1838-56, by Tobler in 1850, and by Lieutenants
Aldrich and Symons, R.E., in 1849. Thrupp and Barclay made additions,

88 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

as did also Vandevelde, to existing plans ; but these have all been
entirely superseded by the Ordnance Survey, with its accompanying plans,
executed under Sir Henry James, by Captain (now Colonel Sir Charles)
Wilson, R.E., at the expense of Lady Burdett-Coutts, and published in
1866. This survey is the basis of all the scientific exploration of the city
which has been carried on by the Palestine Exploration Fund since the
year 1866.

The work of the modern explorers has in great measure rendered
obsolete the writings of all their predecessors, with the exception of the
learned Robinson and the scientific work of De Vogiie. The principal
thcoj-etical works which have as yet resulted from the explorations of Sir
Charles Warren (1867-70), M. Clermont-Ganneau (1873-74), and Captain
Conder (1872-82), have been the works called 'The Recovery of Jerusalem ;'
'Underground Jerusalem' (Warren, 1876), 'The Temple or the Tomb '
(Warren, 1880), together with two chapters by Captain Conder in ' Tent-
Work in Palestine' (1878), and two chapters in Longmans' ' Handbook
to the Bible' (Conder, 1879). Mr. Fergusson's 'Temples of the Jews '
(1878) also defends his views in face of the results of Colonel Warren's
discoveries.

Work of great value has also been carried on in Jerusalem during the
last fifteen years by Herr Konrad Schick, and the results are incorporated
in the present volume. The excavations of Dr. Guthe on Ophel in 1881
also resulted in increasing our information, and several minor excavations
have been undertaken by residents. The clearing out of the Muristan by
the German Government (1872-74), and the exploration of the Zion scarp
by Mr. Henry Maudslay in 1874, have also added materially to our
information.

STATEMENT OF THE PRINCIPAL CONTROVERSIES.

It has often been said that there is not a single topographical question
connected with ancient Jerusalem which is not the subject of controversy.
This is, however, rather overstating the case, for there are points con-
cerning which all authorities are in accord. First, as regards the natural
features of the site, it is agreed that the Mount of Olives is the chain east
of the Temple Hill, and that the valley beneath it on the west is the
Brook Kedron. It is agreed that the Temple stood on the spur im-
mediately west of the Kedron, and that the southern tongue of this spur
was called Ophel. It is also agreed that the flat valley west of this spur
is that to which Josephus applies the name Tyropoeon, although there
was a diversity of opinion as to the exact course of the valley, which has
now been set at rest by the collection of the rock-levels within the city.
It is also agreed by all authorities that the high south-western hill (to
which the name Sion has been applied since the fourth century) is that
which Josephus calls the hill of the Upper City, or Upper Market Place.
The site of the pool of Slloam is also undisputed, and the Rock
Zoheleth was discovered by M. Clermont Ganneau at the present village
of Silwan. As regards the walls of the ancient city, all authorities except
Fergusson agree in placing the ' Royal Towers ' in the vicinity of the
present citadel, and all suppose the scarp in the Protestant Cemetery to
be the old south-west angle of the city. The Tyropoeon Bridge is
accepted by all writers since Robinson as leading to the royal cloisters of
Herod's Temple, and all plans of the Temple start with the assumption
that its south-west angle coincided with the present south-west angle of
the Haram. All plans also agree in accepting the east wall of the Haram

90 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

as an ancient rampart of the city. We have thus various data to begin
with which must be considered as certain, because writers who differ on
all other points agree on these.

The chief controversies which still divide the opinions of contemporary
authors are three in all. First, as to the extent of the ancient city before
the destruction of 70 a.d., and the names of certain natural features within
its bounds. Secondly, with regard to the area included within the Temple
Enclosure, especially at the time of the enlargement of the sanctuary by
Herod the Great. Thirdly, as regards the true site of Calvary and of
the Holy Sepulchre, and respecting the position of the Basilica built by
Constantine on what he supposed to be the true site.

Questions respecting the topography of Jerusalem from the twelfth
century down are not matters of controversy, our information being
detailed and accurate, and the existing buildings numerous, and often
well preserved. We may therefore confine our attention in the present
paper to the three great questions, on each of which the explorations of
the Palestine Exploration Fund have thrown so much light as practically
to render many theories previously held no longer tenable.

I. Extent of the Ancient City.

The following is the description of Josephus (Whiston's Translation) : —

' I. The city of Jerusalem was fortified with three walls, on such parts as were not
encompassed with unpassable valleys ; for in such places it hath but one wall. The city was
built upon two hills, which are opposite to one another, and have a valley to divide them
asunder, at which valley the corresponding rows of houses on both hills end. Of these hills,
that which contains the upper city is much higher, and in length more direct. Accordingly
it was called the Citadel by King David ; he was the father of that Solomon who built this
Temple at the first ; but it is by us called the Upper Market Place. But the other hill,
which was called Acra, and sustains the lower city, is of the shape of a moon when she is
gibbous ; over against this there was a third hill, but naturally lower than Acra, and parted
formerly from the other by a broad valley. However, in those times, when the Asamoneans
reigned, they filled up that valley with earth, and had a mind to join the city to the Temple.
They then took off part of the height of Acra, and reduced it to a less elevation than it was
before, that the Temple might be superior to it. Now the valley of the Tyropceon, as
it was called, and was that which we told you before distinguished the hill of the upper city
from that of the lower, extended as far as Siloam ; for that is the name of a fountain which
hath sweet water in it, and this in great plenty also. But on the outsides, these hills are

JERUSALEM. 91

surrounded by deep valleys, and by reason of the precipices to them belonging, on both sides
they are everywhere unpassable.

' 2. Now, of these three walls, the old one was hard to be taken, both by reason of the
valleys, and of that hill on which it was built, and which was above them. But besides that
great advantage, as to the place where they were situated, it was also built very strong :
because David, and Solomon, and the following kings, were very zealous about this work.
Now that wall began on the north, at the tower called Hippicus, and extended as far as the
Xistus, a place so called, and then joining to the council-house, ended at the west cloister of
the Temple. But if we go the other way westward, it began at the same place, and extended
through a place called Bethso, to the gate of the Essens ; and after that it went southward,
having its bending above the fountain Siloam, where it also bends again towards the east at
Solomon's Pool, and reaches as far as a certain place which they called Ophlas, where it was
joined to the eastern cloister of the Temple. The second wall took its beginning from that
gate which they called Genneth, which belonged to the first wall ; it only encompassed the
northern quarter of the city, and reached as far as the tower Antonia. The beginning of the
third wall was at the tower Hippicus, whence it reached as far as the north quarter of the
city, and the tower Psephinus, and then was so far extended till it came over against the
monuments of Helena, which Helena was Queen of Adiabene, and mother of Izates ; it then
extended farther to a great length, and passed by the caverns of the kings, and bent again at
the tower of the corner, at the monument which is called the Monument of the Fuller, and
joined to the old wall at the valley called the Valley of Cedron. It was Agrippa who encom-
passed the parts added to the old city with this wall, which had been all naked before ; for as
the city grew more populous, it gradually crept beyond its old Umits, and those parts of it
that stood northward of the Temple, and joined that hill to the city, made it considerably
larger, and occasioned that hill which is in number the fourth, and is called Bezetha, to be
inhabited also. It lies over against the tower Antonia, but is divided from it by a deep
valley, which was dug on purpose, and that in order to hinder the foundations of the tower of
Antonia from joining to this hill, and thereby affording an opportunity for getting to it with
ease, and hindering the security that arose from its superior elevation, for which reason also
that depth of the ditch made the elevation of the towers more remarkable. This new-built
part of the city was called Bezetha in our language, which if interpreted in the Grecian
language, may be called The New City. Since therefore its inhabitants stood in need of a
covering, the father of the present king, and of the same name with him, Agrippa, began that
wall we spoke of; but he left off building it when he had only laid the foundations, out of
the fear he was in of Claudius Cffisar, lest he should suspect that so strong a wall was built in
order to make some innovation in public affairs ; for the city could no way have been taken
if that wall had been finished in the manner it was begun, as its parts were connected
together by stones 20 cubits long and 10 cubits broad, which could never have been either
easily undermined by any iron tools, or shaken by any engines. The wall was, however,
10 cubits wide, and it would probably have had an height greater than that had not his zeal
who began it been hindered from exerting itself After this, it was erected with great diligence
by the Jews, as high as 20 cubits, above which it had battlements of 2 cubits, and turrets of
3 cubits' altitude, insomuch that the altitude extended as far as 25 cubits.

'3. Now the towers that were upon it were 20 cubits in breadth, and 20 cubits in height;
they were square, and solid as was the wall itself, wherein the niceness of the joints and the
beauty of the stones were no way inferior to those of the holy house itself. Above this solid

12 2

92 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

altitude of the towers, which was 20 cubits, there were rooms of great magnificence, and over
them upper rooms, and cisterns to receive rain-water. They were many in number, and the
steps by which you ascended up to them were every one broad : of these towers then the
third wall had ninety, and the spaces between them were each 200 cubits ; but in the middle
wall were forty towers, and the old wall was parted into sixty, while the whole compass of the
city was i-it furlongs. Now the third wall was all of it wonderful ; yet was the tower Psephinus
elevated above it at the north-west corner, and there Titus pitched his own tent ; for being
70 cubits high, it both afforded a prospect of Arabia at sunrising, as well as it did of the
utmost limits of the Hebrew possessions at the sea westward. Moreover, it was an octagon,
and over against it was the tower Hippicus, and hard by two others were erected by King
Herod, in the old wall. These were for largeness, beauty, and strength, beyond all that were
in the habitable earth ; for besides the magnanimity of his nature, and his munificence
towards the city on other occasions, he built these after such an extraordinary manner, to
gratify his own private affections, and dedicated these towers to the memory of those three
persons who had been the dearest to him, and from whom he named them. They were his
brother, his friend, and his wife. This wife he had slain out of his love [and jealousy], as we
have already related ; the other two he lost in war, as they were courageously fighting.
Hippicus, so named from his friend, was square, its length and breadth were each 25 cubits,
and its height 30, and it had no vacuity in it. Over this solid building, which was composed
of great stones united together, there was a reservoir 20 cubits deep, over which there was an
house of two stories, whose height was 25 cubits, and divided into several parts ; over which
were battlements of 2 cubits, and turrets all round of 3 cubits high, insomuch that the entire
height added together amounted to fourscore cubits. The second tower, which he named
from his brother Phasaelus, had its breadth and its height equal, each of them 40 cubits ; over
which was its solid height of 40 cubits ; over which a cloister went round about whose height
was 10 cubits, and it was covered from enemies by breastworks and bulwarks. There was
also built over that cloister another tower, parted into magnificent rooms, and a place for
bathing, so that this tower wanted nothing that might make it appear to be a royal palace.
It was also adorned with battlements and turrets, more than was the foregoing, and the entire
altitude was about 90 cubits ; the appearance of it resembled the Tower of Pharos, which
exhibited a fire to such as sailed to Alexandria, but was much larger than it in compass.
This was now converted to a house, where Simon exercised his tyrannical authority. The
third tower was Mariamne, for that was the queen's name : it was solid as high as 20 cubits;
its breadth and its length were 20 cubits, and were equal to each other : its upper buildings
were more magnificent, and had greater variety, than the other towers had ; for the King
thought it most proper for him to adorn that which was denominated from his wife better
than those denominated from men, as those were built stronger than this that bore his wife's
name. The entire height of this tower was 50 cubits.

'4. Now as these towers were so very tall, they appeared much taller by the place on
which they stood ; for that very old wall wherein they were was built on a high hill, and was
itself a kind of elevation that was still 30 cubits taller ; over which were the towers situated,
and thereby were made much higher to appearance. The largeness also of the stones was
wonderful ; for they were not made of common small stones, nor of such large ones only as
men could carry, but they were of white marble cut out of the rock ; each one was 20 cubits
in length, and 10 in breadth, and 5 in depth. They were so exactly united to one another
that each tower looked like one entire rock of stone, so growing naturally, and afterward cut

JERUSALEM. 93

by the hands of the artificers into their present shape and corners ; so Httle, or not at all, did
their joints or connection appear. Now as these towers were themselves on the north side of
the wall, the King had a palace inwardly thereto adjoined, which exceeds all my ability to
describe it ; for it was so very curious as to want no cost nor skill in its construction, but
was entirely walled about to the height of 30 cubits, and was adorned with towers at equal
distances, and with large bed-chambers, that would contain beds for a hundred guests apiece,
in which the variety of the stones is not to be expressed, for a large quantity of those that
were rare of that kind was collected together. Their roofs were also wonderful, both for the
length of the beams and the splendour of their ornaments. The number of the rooms was
also very great, and the variety of the figures that were about them was prodigious ; their
furniture was complete, and the greatest part of the vessels that were put in them were of
silver and gold. There were besides many porticoes, one beyond another, round about, and
in each of these porticoes curious pillars ; yet were all the courts that were exposed to the air
everywhere green. There were moreover several groves of trees, and long walks through
them, with deep canals, and cisterns, that in several parts were filled with brazen statues,
through which the water ran out. There were withal many dove-courts of tame pigeons
about the canals. But indeed it is not possible to give a complete description of these
palaces ; and the very remembrance of them is a torment to one, as putting one in mind what
vastly rich buildings that fire which was kindled by the robbers had consumed ; for these
were not burnt by the Romans, but by these internal plotters, as we have already related, in
the beginning of their rebellion. That fire began at the tower of Antonia, and went on to
the palaces, and consumed the upper parts of the three towers themselves.' — ' Wars of the
Jews/ Book v., chap. iv.

The chief authorities on this question are Robinson, WilHams, Lewin,
De Vogiie, Tobler, Fergusson ; while Sir Charles Wilson, Sir Charles
Warren and Captain Conder have also published the views which result
from their examination of the city.

First as regards the natural features of the site. S i o n has
been supposed by Robinson, Williams, Lewin, and De Vogiie to be
identical with the Upper City of Josephus — the hill traditionally called
Sion since the fourth century. Colonel Warren, on the other hand,
identifies Sion with Akra, and supposes it to have been north of the
Tyropceon Valley, while Fergusson identifies it with the Temple Hill.
Captain Conder, while placing the ' stronghold of Sion ' in the Upper
City, has proposed to reconcile these various views by regarding Sion as
a general and poetic title (' the sunny mountain '), applying to the whole
site of Jerusalem as known before the Captivity.

Akra, the site of the Lower City, is placed by Robinson in the
vicinity of the present Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Captain Conder
has adopted the same view. By Williams, Lewin, and De Vogiie, the

94 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

name is applied to the slopes rather further east, and Lewin distinguishes
this name from the Akra of the Macedonian garrison, which he places at
the north-west angle of the modern Maram. Fcrgusson agrees with
Robinson on this point, and Sir Charles Warren follows Williams, but
suggests the previous existence of a knoll south-east of the present Holy
Sepulchre Church, which he supposes to have been that cut down by
the Hasmoneans.

Bezelha is placed by all authorities north of the Haram ; but
Sir Charles Warren writes the name near the Damascus Gate, while
Lewin would extend the application of the term even further west.

]\I o r i a h is supposed by most authorities to have been the Temple
Hill ; but Dean Stanley, and Captain Conder following his view, sup-
pose the actual site of the sacrifice of Isaac to have been on Mount
Gerizim.

The Valley of Hinnom, according to Robinson, Lewin, De
Vogiie, and Fergusson, is identified with the present Wady Rababeh,
south of the city. Sir Charles Warren has proposed to identify it with
the Kcdron ravine, and other writers have suggested the Tyropoeon ; but
the balance of opinion is in favour of the southern valley, the traditional
site which is also adopted by Captain Conder.

The Fountain of En Rogel since the twelfth century has been
supposed to be the present Bir Eyub. Robinson, Lewin, and De Vogiie
follow this view ; but M. Clermont Ganneau's discovery of the site of the
Rock Zoheleth modifies this conjecture, and has led Sir Charles Warren
and Captain Conder to identify En Rogel with the 'Ain Umm ed Deraj,
or so-called Virgin's Fountain.

G i h o n from the fourteenth century has been supposed to be the
Birket Mamilla, and the Lower Gihon to be the Birket es Sultan ; but the
latter reservoir, as we have seen, was only constructed in the twelfth
century. Robinson, Lewin, and Warren retain the traditional site of
Upper Gihon ; and Robinson seems to have overlooked the date of the
Birket es Sultan, where he places Lower Gihon. Rcland and De Vogiie
follow the Jewish Targums in placing Gihon at Siloam. Captain Conder
places the Upper Gihon at the Virgin's Fountain, and regards the
aqueduct thence as Hczekiah's work.

Bethesda, in the fourth century, was identified with the Twin

JERUSALEM. 95

Pools, at the north-west angle of the Haram. In the twelfth century the
site was transferred to the present Birket Israil, which is now the tradi-
tional site. This tradition is accepted by Fergusson, Lewin, and others ;
but Robinson points to the Virgin's Fountain. The name, according to
Gesenius, would mean ' House of the Stream,' and Robinson's view is
accepted by Captain Conder. It is, however, possible, as Sir Charles
Warren suggests, that a spring originally existed in the Tyropoeon, where
the Hammam esh Shefa, or ' Healing Bath,' now exists, and this would
be a possible site for Bethesda.

Passing from the principal natural features to the early constructions
of the Kings of Judah, we must notice The City of David, which
some writers have even placed on Ophel. The early authorities identify
it with Sion as beino; the south-west hill of Jerusalem. Sir Charles
Warren restricts the application to the hill near the Holy Sepulchre
Church ; Mr. Fergusson and Captain Conder agree in supposing that
both Upper and Lower City are to be included under this term, and
that it represents David's Jerusalem.

The First Wall. — All authorities, except Mr. Fergusson, agree
in drawing this eastwards from the present citadel to the Haram, including
the Upper City only within its northern boundary. All authorities agree
also in fixino- the south-west ande of this ancient line of fortification on the
scarp found in the Protestant Cemetery. There is considerable difference
of opinion as to the southern and eastern faces of this wall, which can
only be settled by further exploration. The excavations of Dr. Guthe seem,
however, to show that the wall crossed the Tyropaon, not far above the
Siloam Pool. Sir Charles Warren's important discoveries on Ophel have
proved that the wall joined the present south-east angle of the Haram,
thus disposing of the conjectures of Lewin and Fergusson, who would
make this wall join the Haram near the Triple Gate. Remains of towers
have been found east of the so-called Tower of David, which probably
belonged to the First Wall, and a steep scarp is known here to run parallel
to the Street of David, on the south side of the Tyropceon Valley.

Mr. Fergusson, however, draws the northern part of this wall quite
differently from any other authority, making it include the Holy Sepulchre
Church. He places Hippicus near the present ruined tower Kaldt Jalud
(Tancred's Tower) ; but his view has not found favour with any subse-

96 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

quent writer. Captain Conder has followed Sir Charles Warren very
closely in his proposed tracing of the First Wall. Other writers do not
essentially differ from the authorities mentioned above in their views as
to these ancient ramparts.

Second W a 1 1. — The course of this wall is fiercely debated, because,
if it be drawn so as to include the site of the Holy Sepulchre Church, the
authenticity of that site must be relinquished, as Calvary was outside
Jerusalem in the time of Christ. The Second Wall was built by Solomon,
and rebuilt by later kings, and by Nehemiah. Josephus gives only a
very short account of it, saying that it began at the Gennath Gate in the
First Wall, and encompassed the north quarter extending to Antonia
(5 Wars, iv, 2). The site of the Gennath Gate is unknown, and
that of Antonia is disputed. The advocates for the authenticity of the
traditional site of the Holy Sepulchre draw the Second Wall (of which no
remains have yet been recognised) in a series of angles, east of the
Church, to the present north-west angle of the Haram, or to some point
a little further south. Canon Williams, Lewin, and Sir Charles Warren
agree in this instance, all e.xcluding the Holy Sepulchre Church. Dr.
Robinson, on the other hand, insists on the meaning of the word
(/vi/jcXoiviEroi') used by Josephus, and brings arguments to prove that the
Gennath Gate was near Hippicus. He therefore draws the wall in a
curve from a little east of Hippicus to the present north-west angle of the
Haram, and of necessity includes the Holy Sepulchre Church within this
line. He has been followed by Captain Conder, who argues that any
line further east is subject to engineering and military objections. Mr.
Fero-usson draws the line of this wall from the Kalat Jalud, along the
present north wall of Jerusalem to the Damascus Gate, and thence south-
wards to the west wall of the Haram. In this again he is not followed
by any other authority.

The Third Wall, commenced by Agrippa about 41 a.d., is of less
interest than the preceding, and is very variously drawn. Traces of this
wall seem still to have existed north-west of the present north-west angle
of the city when Robinson first visited Jerusalem. Fergusson and other
earlier authorities give a very wide circuit to this wall, bringing it close
up to the Tombs of the Kings (so-called), or Monument of Helena.
De Vogue and Lewin, on the other hand, identify it with the present

JERUSALEM. 97

north wall ot Jerusalem ; but Sir Charles Warren and Captain Conder,
following Robinson's indications and the distances given by Josephus,
extend the Third Wall beyond the modern one on the west and north-
west, and make it turn back west of Jeremiah's Grotto to the Cotton
Grotto, whence they make it coincide with the present wall to the north-
east angle, and thence run on the present line to join the east wall of the
Haram Enclosure.

II. Site of the Temple.

This question has been profoundly affected by the excavations of
Sir Charles Warren. Controversialists are divided into two parties, one
including Robinson, De Voglie, Warren, and Conder, who suppose that
the Haram Enclosure is substantially a single building, representing the
area of Herod's Temple ; the other including Fergusson, Lewin, etc.,
who restrict the Temple area to a square of about 600 feet side in the
south-west angle of the same enclosure.*

The chief argument in favour of this smaller area is the estimate
ffiven by Josephus of the size of the enclosure, as being a stadium each
side (15 Ant., xi. 3) ; while the cloisters 'reached 400 cubits' — whether
in length or height is not stated (20 Ant., x. 7). Together with
Antonia, Josephus estimates the circumference at six stadia (5 Wars, v. 2).
The Temple Enclosure is thus supposed to have been a square of about
600 feet side (400 cubits), and Antonia a stadium by half a stadium.
The adherents of this view reject the detailed measurements contained in
the Mishnah (Middoth ii. i, v. i, 2), which make the enclosure a square
of 500 cubits ; and instead of making the Court of the Women a square
of 135 cubits by 135 (Midd. ii. 5), they make it 135 cubits north and
south, by 35 cubits east and west, the larger measurement given in the
Mishnah not being reconcilable with the supposed total of 400 cubits.

The opposite view rests chiefly on the results of exploration, as com-

* This statement is confined to the question of Herod's Temple. Of the Solomonic
Temple little is known ; and it must be remembered that a period elapsed between the
time of Herod and that of Solomon equal to that between Queen Victoria and Alfred. It
is the belief of most writers that Solomon's Palace stood on the site of the southern cloister
of Herod's Temple Enclosure, and Sir Charles Warren believes the eastern part of the south
wall of the Haram to be the original wall of the palace.

98 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

pared with oihcr statements of the Mishnah and of Josephus, to the
following effect. Josephus says that the cloisters reached from ' valley to
valley ' (15 Ant., xi. 5), and that the Ophel wall joined the eastern cloister
(5 Wars, iv. 2). Sir Charles Warren's discovery of the great wall on
Ophel is thus of the greatest importance, for the existing line joins the
Haram walls at the south-east angle, running for some distance south
in the same line with the eastern Haram wall. It thus joins the east w^all
of the Haram, just as Josephus says the Ophel wall joined the east cloister
of Herod's Temple.

The description of Antonia (5 Wars, v. 8) standing on a lofty rock
north of the Temple, with a great fosse on its north side (5 Wars, iv. 2,
cf. ix. 2, and 6 Wars, i. 5, ii. 5), agrees in so remarkable a manner with the
existing rock of the barracks at the north-west angle of the Haram, that De
Voglie, Robinson, Wilson, Warren, and Conder, all agree in identifying this
rock as the citadel of Antonia. In this case, the south-west angle of the
Haram being agreed by all writers to represent the south-west angle of
Herod's Temple, and the south-east and north-west angles being defined by
existing ruins, the only doubtful point is the north-east angle of Herod's
Temple Enclosure, which De Vogue identifies with the present north-
east angle of the Haram, while Sir Charles Warren (followed by Captain
Conder) places it at or near the Golden Gate, supposing the rocky scarp
on the north side of the existing Platform to represent the old north wall
of Herod's Enclosure, whence Antonia projected on the north-west.
The adherents of this view consider Josephus to have estimated the area,
rather than to have actually measured it, and refer the area 500 cubits
square (noticed in the Mishnah) to the sacred enclosure, which no Gentile
might enter, standing within the larger area, which, roughly speaking,
would be a square of about 1,000 feet side.

As regards the exact position of the Holy House within this area,
those who confine the Temple to an area of 600 feet side place the altar
in the neighbourhood of the present fountain El K a s, north of the
Aksa Mosque. Those who consider the larger area to be clearly in-
dicated by the results of exploration have much greater latitude in the
choice of a site for the Holy House. De Vogtid, following the plan
given in the Mishnah, places the altar north of the Kubbet es Sakhrah.
Sir Charles Warren, following the same plan, places it south, and

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JERUSALEM. 99

supposes the Gate Nitzotz to have stood on the site of the Holy
Rock.

The latest writer on this question is Captain Conder, whose views are
based on the levels of the rock in the Haram, which were determined in
upwards of seventy places by Sir Charles Wilson and by Sir Charles
Warren. These, together with the existing surface-levels determined by
Sir C. Wilson, are sufficient to allow of a contoured plan of the rock being
drawn with considerable accuracy ; and the existing levels may be com-
pared with those differences of level which are given in the Mishnah, and
noticed by Josephus.

Captain Conder starts by accepting the tradition common to Jews,
Christians, and Moslems, from the Middle Ages downwards, which
identifies the Holy Rock with the Foundation-Stone of the Holy House
on which the ark was placed (cf. Mishnah Yoma v. 2). Josephus places
the Temple on the top of the hill (8 Ant. iii. 9), and the Sakhrah is the
highest point of rock within the Haram area, which descends in terraces
all round it. Captain Conder makes the floor of the Holy of Holies on
the level of the Sakhrah (2,440 feet above the sea), and shows that the
other levels of the Temple Courts agree very closely with the actual
levels. If, however, the Temple be placed in another position, it becomes
inevitable that very deep foundations should be supposed ; and Captain
Conder has prepared sections to show that Mr. Fergusson's plan necessi-
tates foundations of from 30 to 90 feet deep before reaching the rock,
and Sir Charles Warren's plan foundations from 25 to 100 feet ; while for
his own he claims that no foundations at all are needed in most parts, the
levels coinciding with those actually ascertained, while the utmost difference
of level is, according to his view, only 8 feet, if the Courts of the Temple
were perfectly flat. The reason of these differences of section is, briefly,
that unless the Temple be placed over the Sakhrah, its enclosure would
occupy one slope, instead of a succession of terraces round the top of the
hill.

Sir Charles Warren and Captain Conder agree in identifying the great
Tank No. 3 (Ordnance Survey), with the Bath-House leading to the Gate
Tadi (Midd. i. 9). Captain Conder believes Tank No. i to be the
passage from the House Moked to the Gate Tadi (Midd. i. 8). The latter
view does not, however, agree with Sir Charles Warren's plan ; and

100 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

he supposes this passage to have extended further south, and to have
led to the Sakhrah rock, where he places the Gate-House Nitzotz.
The two Iluklah Gates (Midd. i. 3) are supposed by De Vogiie,
Warren and Conder to be the existing Double and Triple Gates on the
south side of the Haram ; while the Prophet's Gate on the west is
identified with Kipunus (Midd. i. 3). I'^ergusson supposes only the
Double Gate to be intended by the 'two Huldah Gates' mentioned in
the Mishnah.

The places which still remain unexplored are the Gates Tadi* and
Shushan, and the north-east angle of Herod's Temple. If these could
be found, or if explorations under the Platform of the Dome of the Rock,
and the examination of the closed chambers known to exist on the north
and east sides of this Platform, could be carried out, the controversies
might be set at rest by actual discovery. In the present state of Moslem
feeling in the East, there is, however, no hope of excavation being per-
mitted to Christians within the area of the Haram esh Shcrif

The preceding sketch will, however, enable the reader to understand
the grounds of the present opinions as to the Temple of Herod, and the
bearing of the Society's explorations on the subject.

The following is the account of Joscphus, and first, that given in the
'Antiquities,' xv. 11, y^ : —

'So Herod took away the old foundations, and laid others, and erected the Temple upon
them, being in length loo cubits, and in height 20 additional cubits, which [twenty,] upon the
sinking of their foundations, fell down ; and this part it was that we resolved to raise again in
the days of Nero. Now the Temple was built of stones that were white and strong, and each
of their length was 25 cubits, their height was 8, and their breadth about 12 ; and the whole
structure, as was also the structure of the royal cloister, was on each side much lower, but the
middle was much higher, till they were visible to those that dwelt in the country for a great
many furlongs, but chiefly to such as lived over-against them, and those that approached to
them. The Temple had doors also at the entrance, and lintels over them, of the same height
with the temple itself. They were adorned with embroidered vails, with their flowers of
purple, and pillars interwoven ; and over these, but under the crown-work, was spread out a
golden vine, with its branches hanging down from a great height, the largeness and fine work-

* Sir Charles Warren and Captain Conder both suppose that Tanks Nos. i and 3
extend further north and meet on the line of the north wall of the modern Platform, and
that the subterranean gate Tadi still remains to be found here, as shown on their plans, at
the junction of the two passages.

JERUSALEM. loi

manship of which was a surprising sight to the spectators to see what vast materials there
were, and with what great skill the workmanship was done. He also encompassed the entire
Temple with very large cloisters, contriving them to be in a due proportion thereto ; and he
laid out larger sums of money upon them than had been done before him, till it seemed that
no one else had so greatly adorned the Temple as he had done. There was a large wall to
both the cloisters, which wall was itself the most prodigious work that was ever heard of by
man. The hill was a rocky ascent, that declined by degrees towards the east parts of the
city, till it came to an elevated level. This hill it was which Solomon, who was the first of
our kings, by divine revelation, encompassed with a wall ; it was of excellent workmanship
upwards, and round the top of it. He also built a wall below, beginning at the bottom,
which was encompassed by a deep valley ; and at the south side he laid rocks together, and
bound them one to another with lead, and included some of the inner parts, till it proceeded
to a great height, and till both the largeness of the square edifice, and its altitude, were im-
mense, and till the vastness of the stones in the front was plainly visible on the outside, yet
so that the inward parts were fastened together with iron, and preserved the joints immove-
able for all future times. When this work [for the foundation] was done in this manner, and
joined together as part of the hill itself to the very top of it, he wrought it all into one out-
ward surface, and filled up the hollow places which were about the wall, and made it a level
on the external upper surface, and a smooth level also. This hill was walled all round, and
in compass 4 furlongs, [the distance ofj each angle containing in length a furlong ; but within
this wall, and on the very top of all, there ran another wall of stone also, having, on the east
quarter, a double cloister, of the same length with the wall, in the midst of which was the
temple itself This cloister looked to the gates of the Temple ; and it had been adorned by
many kings in former times. And round about the entire Temple were fixed the spoils taken
from barbarous nations ; all these had been dedicated to the Temple by Herod, with the
addition of those he had taken from the Arabians.

'Now on the north side [of the Temple] was built a citadel, whose walls were square, and
strong, and of extraordinary firmness. This citadel was built by the kings of the Asamonean
race, who were also high priests before Herod, and they called it the Tower, in which were
reposited the vestments of the high priest, which the high priest only put on at the time when
he was to offer sacrifice. These vestments King Herod kept in that place, and after his death
they were under the power of the Romans, until the time of Tiberius Ca;sar, under whose
reign Vitellius, the President of Syria, when he once came to Jerusalem, and had been most
magnificently received by the multitude, had a mind to make them some requital for the
kindness they had showed him ; so, upon their petition to have those holy vestments in their
own power, he wrote about them to Tiberius Ca;sar, who granted his request ; and this their
power over the sacerdotal vestments continued with the Jews till the death of King Agrippa ;
but after that, Cassius Longinus, who was President of Syria, and Cuspius Fadus, who was
Procurator of Judca, enjoined the Jews to reposit those vestments in the Tower of Antonia,
for that they ought to have them in their power, as they formerly had. However, the Jews
sent ambassadors to Claudius Ctesar, to intercede with him for them, upon whose coming
King Agrippa, junior, being then at Rome, asked for, and obtained, the power over them
from the emperor, who gave command to Vitellius, who was then commander in Syria, to
give it them accordingly. Before that time, they were kept under the seal of the high priest,
and of the treasurers of the Temple, which treasurers, the day before a festival, went up to
the Roman captain of the Temple guards, and viewed their own seal, and received the vest-

102 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

mcnts ; and again, when the festival was over, they brought them to the same place, and
showed the captain of the Temple guards their seal, which corresponded with his seal, and
rcpositcd them there. And that these tilings were so, the afflictions that happened to us
afterward [about them] are sufficient evidence ; but for the tower itself, when Herod the king
of the Jews had fortified it more firmly than before, in order to secure and guard the temple,
he gratified Antonius, who was his friend, and the Roman ruler, and then gave it the name
of the Tower of Antonix

'Now in the western quarters of the enclosure of the Temple there were four gates; the
first led to the king's palace, and went to a passage over the intermediate valley ; two more
led to the suburbs of the city ; and the last led to the other city, where the road descended
down into the valley by a great number of steps, and thence up again by the ascent, for the
city lay over-against the Temple in the manner of a theatre, and was encompassed with a deep
valley along the entire south quarter ; but the fourth front of the Temple, which was south-
ward, had indeed itself gates in its middle, as also it had the royal cloister, with three walks
which reached in length from the east valley unto that on the west, for it was impossible it
should reach any farther : and this cloister deserves to be mentioned better than any other
under the sun ; for while the valley was very deep, and its bottom could not be seen, if you
looked from above into the depth, this farther vastly high elevation of the cloister stood upon
that height, insomuch, that if anyone looked down from the top of the battlements, or down
both those altitudes, he would be giddy, while his sight could not reach to such an immense
depth. This cloister had pillars that stood in four rows one over against-the other all along,
for the fourth row was interwoven into the wall, which [also was built of stone ;] and the
thickness of each pillar was such, that three men might, with their arms extended, fathom it
round, and join their hands again, while its length was 27 feet with a double spiral at its
basis; and the number of all the pillars [in that court] was 162. Their chapiters were made
with sculptures after the Corinthian order, and caused an amazement [to the spectators,] by
reason of the grandeur of the whole. These four rows of pillars included three intervals for
walking in the middle of this cloister, two of which walks were made parallel to each other,
and were contrived after the same manner ; the breadth of each of them was 30 feet, the
length was i furlong, and the height 50 feet, but the breadth of the middle part of the cloister
was one and a half of the other, and the height was double, for it was much higher than those
on each side ; but the roofs were adorned with deep sculptures in wood, representing many
sorts of figures : the middle was much higher than the rest, and the wall of the front was
adorned with beams, resting upon pillars that were interwoven into it, and that front was all
of polished stone, insomuch, that its fineness, to such as had not seen it, was incredible, and
to such as had seen it, was greatly amazing. Thus was the first enclosure, in the midst of
which, and not far from it, was the second, to be gone up to by a few steps ; this was encom-
passed by a stone wall for a partition, with an inscription, which forbade any foreigner to go
in under pain of death. Now, this inner enclosure had on its southern and northern quarters
three gates [equally] distant one from another ; but on the east quarter, towards the sunrising,
there was one large gate, through which such as were pure came in, together with their wives,
but the temple farther inward in that gate was not allowed to the women ; but still more
inward was there a third [court of the] Temple, whereinto it was not lawful for any but the
priests alone to enter. The Temple itself was within this ; and before that Temple was the
altar, upon which we offer our sacrifices and burnt-offerings to God. Into none of these
three did King Herod enter, for he was forbidden, because he was not a priest. How-

JERUSALEM. 103

ever, he took care of the cloisters, and the outer enclosures, and these he built in eight
years.

' But the Temple itself was built by the priests in a year and six months, upon which
all the people were full of joy ; and presently they returned thanks, in the first place to God,
and in the next place for the alacrity the king had showed. They feasted and celebrated this
rebuilding of the temple ; and for the king, he sacrificed 300 oxen to God, as did the rest,
everyone according to his ability, the number of which sacrifices is not possible to be set
down, for it cannot be that we should truly relate it, for at the same time with this celebra-
tion for the work about the Temple fell also the day of the king's inauguration, which he kept
of an old custom as a festival, and it now coincided with the other, which coincidence of them
both made the festival most illustrious.

'There was also an occult passage built for the king; it led from Antonia to the inner
Temple, at its eastern gate, over which he also erected for himself a tower, that he might have
the opportunity of a subterraneous ascent to the Temple, in order to guard against any sedition
which might be made by the people against their kings. It is also reported, that during the
time that the Temple was building, it did not rain in the daytime, but that the showers fell in
the night, so that the work was not hindered. And this our fathers have delivered to us ; nor
is it incredible, if anyone have regard to the manifestations of God. And thus was performed
the work of the rebuilding of the Temple.'

Next, his description in the ' Wars,' v. 5, 1-6 and 8 : —

' I. Now this Temple, as I have already said, was built upon a strong hill. At first the
plain at the top was hardly sufficient for the holy house and the altar, for the ground about it
was very uneven, and like a precipice ; but when King Solomon, who was the person that
built the Temple, had built a wall to it on its east side, there was then added one cloister
founded on a bank cast up for it, and on other parts the Holy House stood naked. But in
future ages the people added new banks, and the hill became a larger plain. They then
broke down the wall on the north side, and took in as much as sufficed afterward for the
compass of the entire Temple. And when they had built walls on three sides of the Temple
round about, from the bottom of the hill, and had performed a work that was greater than
could be hoped for (in which work long ages were spent by them, as well as all their sacred
treasures were exhausted, which were still replenished by those tributes which were sent to
God from the whole habitable earth), they then encompassed their upper courts with
cloisters, as well as they [afterward] did the lowest [court of the] Temple. The lowest part
of this was erected to the height of 300 cubits, and in some places more, yet did not the
entire depth of the foundations appear, for they brought earth and filled up the valleys, as
being desirous to make them on a level with the narrow streets of the city, wherein they
made use of stones of 40 cubits in magnitude ; for the great plenty of money they then had,
and the liberality of the people, made this attempt of theirs to succeed to an incredible
degree. And what could not be so much as hoped for as ever to be accomplished was, by
perseverance and length of time, brought to perfection.

' 2. Now for tlie works that were above these foundations, these were not unworthy of
such foundations, for all the cloisters were double, and the pillars to them belonging were
25 cubits in height, and supported the cloisters. These pillars were of one entire stone each

104 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

of them, and that stone was wliite marble ; and the roofs were adorned with cedar, curiously
graven. The natural magnificence, and excellent polish, and the harmony of the joints in
these cloisters, afforded a prospect that was very remarkable ; nor was it on the outside
adorned with any work of the painter or engraver. The cloisters [of the outmost court] were
in breadth 30 cubits, while the entire compass of it was by measure 6 furlongs, including the
Tower of Antonia ; those entire courts that were exposed to the air were laid with stones of
all sorts. When you go through these [first] cloisters, unto the second [court of the] Temple,
there was a partition made of stone all round, whose height was three cubits. Its construction
was very elegant ; upon it stood pillars, at equal distances from one another, declaring the
law of purity, some in Greek, and some in Roman letters. That no foreigner should go
within that Sanctuary ; for that second [court of the] Temple was called the Sanctuary, and
was ascended to by fourteen steps from the first court. This court was four-square, and had
a wall about it peculiar to itself; the height of its buildings, although it were on the outside
40 cubits, was hidden by the steps, and on the inside that height was but 25 cubits ; for it
being built over against a higher part of the hill with steps, it was no farther to be entirely
discerned within, being covered by the hill itself. Beyond these fourteen steps there was the
distance of 10 cubits : this was all plain ; whence there were other steps, each of 5 cubits
apiece, that led to the gates, which gates on the north and south sides were eight, on each
of those sides four, and of necessity two on the east. Yox since there was a partition built
for the women on that side, as the proper place wherein they were to worship, there was a
necessity for a second gate for them ; this gate was cut out of its wall, over-against the first
gate. There was also on the other sides one southern and one northern gate, through which
was a passage into the court of the women ; for as to the other gates, the women were not
allowed to pass through them, nor when they went through their own gate could they go
beyond their own wall. This place was allotted to the women of our own countries, and of
other countries, provided they were of the same nation, and that equally ; the western side of
this court had no gate at all, but the wall was built entire on that side. But then the cloisters
which were betwixt the gates extended from the wall inward, before the chambers, for they
were supported by very fine and large pillars. These cloisters were single, and, excepting in
their magnitude, were no way inferior to those of the lower court.

' 3. Now nine of these gates were on every side covered over with gold and silver, as were
the jambs of their doors and their lintels • but there was one gate that was without the
[inward court of] the Holy House, which was of Corinthian brass, and greatly excelled those
that were only covered over with silver and gold. Each gate had two doors, whose height
was severally 30 cubits, and their breadth 15. However, they had large spaces within of
30 cubits, and had on each side-rooms, and those, both in breadth and in length, built like
towers, and their height was above 40 cubits. Two pillars did also support these rooms, and
were in circumference 1 2 cubits. Now the magnitudes of the other gates were equal one to
another ; but that over the Corinthian Gate, which opened on the east over against the gate
of the Holy House itself, was much larger ; for its height was 50 cubits, and its doors were
40 cubits ; and it was adorned after a most costly manner, as having much richer and thicker
plates of silver and gold upon them than the other. These nine gates had the silver and
gold poured upon them by Alexander the father of Tiberias. Now there were fifteen steps,
which led away from the wall of the court of the women to this greater gate ; whereas those
that led thither from the other gates were five steps shorter.

' 4. As to the Holy House itself, which was placed in the midst [of the inmost court,]

JERUSALEM. 105

that most sacred place of the Temple, it was ascended to by twelve steps ; and in front its
height and its breadth were equal, and each 100 cubits, though it was behind 40 cubits
narrower, for on its front it had what may be styled shoulders on each side, that passed
20 cubits further. Its first gate was 70 cubits high, and 25 cubits broad : but this gate had
no doors ; for it represented the universal visibility of heaven, and that it cannot be excluded
from any place. Its front was covered with gold all over, and through it the first part of the
house, that was more inward, did all of it appear, which, as it was very large, so did all the
parts about the inward gate appear to shine to those that saw them ; but then, as the entire
house was divided into two parts within, it was only the first part of it that was open to our
view. Its height extended all along to 90 cubits in height, and its length was 50 cubits, and
its breadth 20. But that gate which was at this end of the first part of the house was, as we
have already observed, all over covered with gold, as was its whole wall about it ; it had also
golden vines above it, from which clusters of grapes hung as tall as a man's height. But then
this house, as it was divided into two parts, the inner part was lower than the appearance of
the outer, and had golden doors of 55 cubits altitude, and 16 in breadth ; but before these
doors there was a veil of equal largeness with the doors. It was a Babylonian curtain,
embroidered with blue, and fine linen, and scarlet and purple, and of a contexture that was
truly wonderful. Nor was this mixture of colours without its mystical interpretation, but was
a kind of image of the universe ; for by the scarlet there seemed to be enigmatically signified
fire, by the fine flax the earth, by the blue the air, and by the purple the sea, two of them
having their colours the foundation of this resemblance ; but the fine flax and the purple
have their own origin for that foundation, the earth producing the one, and the sea the other.
This curtain had also embroidered upon it all that was mystical in the heavens, excepting
that of the [twelve] signs representing living creatures.

' 5. When any person entered into the Temple, its floor received them. This part of the
Temple therefore was in height 60 cubits, and its length the same ; whereas its breadth was
but 20 cubits : but still that 60 cubits in length was divided again, and the first part of it was
cut off at 30 cubits, and had in it three things that were very wonderful and famous among
all mankind, the candlestick, the table [of shew-bread], and the altar of incense. Now the
seven lamps signify the seven planets ; for so many there were springing out of the candle-
stick. Now the twelve loaves that were upon the table signified the circle of the zodiac and
the year ; but the altar of incense, by its thirteen kinds of sweet-smelling spices with which
the sea replenished it, signified that God is the Possessor of all things that are both in the
uninhabitable and habitable parts of the earth, and that they are all to be dedicated to His
use. But the inmost part of the Temple of all was of 20 cubits. This was also separated
from the outer part by a veil. In this there was nothing at all. It was inaccessible and
inviolable, and not to be seen by any ; and was called the Holy of Holies. Now, about the
sides of the lower part of the Temple there were little houses, with passages out of one into
another : there were a great many of them, and they were of three stories high ; there were
also entrances on each side into them from the gate of the Temple. But the superior part of
the Temple had no such little houses any farther, because the Temple was there narrower,
and 40 cubits higher, and of a smaller body than the lower parts of it. Thus we collect that
the whole height, including the sixty cubits from the floor, amounted to 100 cubits.

'6. Now the outward face of the Temple in its front wanted nothing that was likely to
surprise either men's minds or their eyes ; for it was covered all over with plates of gold of
great weight, and, at the first rising of the sun, reflected back a very fiery splendour, and

io6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

made those who forced themselves to look upon it to turn their eyes away, just as they would
have done at the sun's own rays. But this Temple ai)peared to strangers, when they were
coming to it at a distance, like a mountain covered with snow ; for, as to those parts of it
that were not gilt, they were exceeding white. On its top it had spikes with sharp points, to
prevent any pollution of it by birds sitting upon it. Of its stones some of them were 45 cubits
in length, 5 in height, and 6 in breadth. Before this Temple stood the altar, 15 cubits high,
and equal both in length and breadth, each of which dimensions was 50 cubits. The figure
it was built in was a square, and it had corners like horns ; and the passage up to it was by an
insensible acclivity. It was formed without any iron tool, nor did any such iron tool so much
as touch it at any time. There was also a wall of partition, about a cubit in height, made of
fine stones, and so as to be grateful to the sight ; this encompassed the Holy House and the
altar, and kept the people that were on the outside off from the priests. Moreover, those
that had the gonorrhoea and the leprosy were excluded out of the city entirely ; women, also,
when their courses were ujion them, were shut out of the Temple ; nor, when they were
free from that impurity, were they allowed to go beyond the limit before mentioned ;
men, also, that were not thoroughly pure, were prohibited to come into the inner [court
of the] Temple ; nay, the priests themselves that were not pure were prohibited to come
into it also.

' 8. Now, as to the Tower of Antonia, it was situated at the corner of two cloisters of the
court of the Temple, of that on the west, and that on the north ; it was erected upon a
rock of 50 cubits in height, and was on a great precipice ; it was the work of King Herod
wherein he demonstrated his natural magnanimity. In the first place, the rock itself was
covered over with smooth pieces of stone, from its foundation, both for ornament, and that
any one who would either try to get up or to go down it might not be able to hold his feet
upon it Next to this, and before you come to the edifice of the tower itself, there was a
wall 3 cubits high ; but within that wall all the space of the Tower of Antonia itself was built
upon, to the height of 40 cubits. The inward parts had the largeness and form of a palace,
it being parted into all kinds of rooms and other conveniences, such as courts, and places for
bathing, and broad spaces for camps, insomuch that, by having all conveniences that cities
wanted, it might seem to be composed of several cities, but by its magnificence it seemed a
palace ; and as the entire structure resembled that of a tower, it contained also four other
distinct towers at its four corners ; whereof the others were but 50 cubits high ; whereas that
which lay upon the south-east corner was 70 cubits high, that from thence the whole Temple
might be viewed, but on the corner, where it joined to the two cloisters of the Temple, it had
passages down to them both, through which the guard (for there always lay in this tower a
Roman legion) went several ways among the cloisters, with their arms, on the Jewish
festivals, in order to watch the people, that they might not there attempt to make any
innovations ; for the Temple was a fortress that guarded the city, as was the Tower of
Antonia a guard to the Temple ; and in that tower were the guards of those three. There
was also a peculiar fortress belonging to the upper city, which was Herod's palace ; but, for
the hill Bezetha, it was divided from the Tower of Antonia, as we have already told you ; and
as that hill on which the Tower of Antonia stood was the highest of these three, so did it
adjoin to the new city, and was the only place that hindered the sight of the Temple on
the north. And this shall suffice at present to have spoken about the city and the walls
about it, because I have proposed to myself to make a more accurate description of it
elsewhere.'

JERUSALEM. 107

The following is the Talmudic account contained in the tract of the
Mishnah called Middoth or ' Measurements.' The translation is that
of the late Bishop Barclay, corrected by Dr. Chaplin from comparison of
various Hebrew texts.

'CHAPTER I.

' I. The priests guarded the sanctuary in three places, in the House Abtinas, in the
House Nitzus, and in the House Moked ; and the Levites in twenty-one places, five at the
five gates of the Mountain of the House, four at its four corners inside, five at the five gates
of the Court, four at its four corners outside, and one in the chamber of the Offering, and
one in the chamber of the Veil, and one behind the House of Atonement.

' 2. The Captain of the Mountain of the House \yent round to every watch in succession
■with torches flaming before him, and to every guard who was not standing, the Captain said,
"Peace be to thee." If it appeared that he slept, he beat liim with his staff; and he had
permission to set fire to his coat. And they said, " What is the voice in the Court ?" " It is
the voice of the Levite being beaten, and his garments burned, because he slept on his guard."
Rabbi Eliezer, the son of Jacob, said, " Once they found the brother of my mother asleep,
and they burned his coat."

' 3. There were five gates to the Mountain of the House, two Huldah gates in the south,
which served for going in and out ; Kipunus in the west served for going in and out ; Tadi in
the north served for no (ordinary) purpose. Upon the east gate was portrayed Shushan, the
Palace. Through it the high priest went forth who burned the heifer, and all his assistants,
to- the Mount of Olives.

' 4. In the court were seven gates — three in the north, and three in the south, and one in
the east. That in the south was called the Gate of Flaming ; the second after it, the Gate of
Offering ; the third after it, the ^\'ater Gate. That in the east was the Gate Nicanor.
And this gate had two chambers, one on the right, and one on the left ; one the chamber of
Phineas, the vestment keeper, and the other the chamber of the pancake maker.

' 5. And the Gate Nitzus on the north was a kind of cloister (exhedra) with a room built
over it, where the priests kept ward above, and the Levites below ; and it had a door into
the Chel. Second to it was the Gate of the Offering. Third, the House Moked.

' 6. In the House Moked were four chambers opening as small apartments into a hall —
two in the Holy place, and two in the Unconsecrated place ; and pointed pieces separated
between the Holy and the Unconsecrated. And what was their use? The south-west
chamber was the chamber for offering. The south-east was the chamber for the shew-bread.
In the north-east chamber the children of the Asmoneans deposited the stones of the altar
which the Greek kings had defiled. In the north-west chamber they descended to the bath
house.

' 7. To the House Moked were two doors ; one open to the Chel, and one open to the
court. Said Rabbi Judah, " The one open to the court had a wicket, through which they
went in to sweep the court."

' 8. The House Moked was arched, and spacious, and surrounded with stone divans, and
the elders of the Courses slept there with the keys of the court in their liands, and also the
young priests each with his coat on the ground.

14 — 2

io8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' 9. And there was a place a cubil square with a tablet of marble, and to it was fastened a
ring, and a chain upon which the keys were susi)endcd. When the time approached for
locking the gates, the priest lifted up the tablet by the ring, and took the keys from the chain
and locked inside, and the Levitcs remained outside. When he had finished locking, he
returned the keys to the chain, and the tablet to its place, laid his coat over it, and fell
asleep. If sudden defilement happened to one of them, he went out and passed along the
gallery that ran under the sanctuary, and candles flamed on either side, until he came to the
bath house. Rabbi Eleazar, the son of Jacob, says, " In the gallery that went under the
Chcl, he passed out through Tadi."

'CHAPTER II.

' I. The Mountain of the House was 500 cubits square. The largest space was on the
south, the second on the cast, the third on the north, and the least westward. In the place
largest in measurement was held most service.

' 2. All who entered the Mountain of the House entered on the right-hand side, and went
round, and passed out on the left ; except to whomsoever an accident occurred, he turned to
the left " Why do you go to the left ?" " I am in mourning." " He that dwellcth in this
House comfort thee." " I am excommunicate." " He that dwclleth in this House put in
thy heart [repentance], and they shall receive thee." The words of Rabbi Meier. To him
said Rabbi Jos^, " Thou hast acted as though they had transgressed against him in judgment ;
but ' may He that dwelleth in this House put it in thy heart that thou hearken to the words
of thy neighbours, and they shall receive thee.' "

' 3. Inside of the [Mountain of the House] was a reticulated wall, 10 hand-breadths high ;
and in it were thirteen breaches, broken down by the Greek kings. The [Jews] restored and
fenced them, and decreed before them thirteen acts of obeisance. Inside of it was the Chcl,
10 cubits broad, and twelve steps were there. The height of each step was i cubit, and the
breadth A cubit. All the steps there were in height h cubit, and in breadth ^ cubit, except
those of the porch. All the doors there were in height 20 cubits, and in breadth 10 cubits,
except that of the porch. All the gateways there had doors, except that of the porch. All
the gates there had lintels, except Tadi ; there two stones inclined one upon the other. All
the gates there were transformed into gold, except the Gate Nicanor, because to it happened
a wonder, though some said, "Because its brass glittered like gold."

' 4. And all the walls there were high, except the eastern wall, that the priest who burned
the heifer might stand on the top of the Mount of Olives and look straight into the door of
the Sanctuary when he sprinkled the blood.

' 5, The court of the women was 135 cubits in length, by 135 in breadth. And in its
four comers were four chambers, each 40 cubits square, and they had no roofs ; and so they
will be in future, as is said, " Then He brought me forth into the utter court, and caused me
to pass by the four corners of the court ; and, behold, in every corner of the court there was
a court. In the four corners of the court there were courts smoking, and why smoking ?
because they were roofless" (Ezekiel xlvi. 21). And what was their use? The south-east
one was the chamber of the Nazarites, for there the Nazarites cooked their peace-offerings,
and polled their hair, and cast it under the pot. The north-east was the chamber for the
wood, and there the priests with blemishes gathered out the worm-eaten wood. And every
stick in which a worm was found was unlawful for the altar. The north-west was the chamber

JERUSALEM. 109

for the lepers. The south-west ? Rabbi Eleazar, the son of Jacob, said, " I forget for what
it served." Abashaul said, " There they put wine and oil." It was called the chamber of
the house of oil. And it was flat at first ; but they surrounded it with lattice-work, that the
women might see from above and the men from beneath, lest they should be mixed. And
fifteen steps corresponding to the fifteen steps in the Psalms (Ps. cxx. — cxxxiv.) ascended
from it to the court of Israel ; upon them the Levites chanted. They were not angular, but
deflected like the half of a round threshing-floor.

' 6. And under the Court of Israel were chambers open to the court of the women.
There the Levites deposited their harps, and psalteries, and cymbals, and all instruments of
music. The Court of Israel was 135 cubits long, and 11 broad; and likewise the court of
the priests was 135 cubits long, and 11 broad. And pointed pieces separated the Court of
Israel from the court of the priests. Rabbi Eleazar, the son of Jacob, said, " There was a
step a cubit high, and the pulpit " (cf Neh. viii. 4, Ezra i. 9, 42) " was placed over it. And in
it were three steps each \ cubit in height." We find that the priests' court was 2^ cubits
higher than the Court of Israel. The whole court was 187 cubits in length, and 135 cubits
in breadth, and the thirteen places for bowing were there. Abajose, the son of Chanan, said,
" in front of the thirteen gates." In the south near to the west were the upper gate, the gate
of flaming, the gate of the firstborn, the water-gate. And why is it called the water-gate ?
Because through it they bring bottles of water for pouring out during the feast of Tabernacles.
Rabbi Eleazar, the son of Jacob, said, " Through it the water proceeded out, and in future it
will issue from under the threshold of the house." And there were opposite to them in the
north, near to the west, the Gate of Jochania, the gate of the offering, the gate of the women,
the gate of music. And " why was it called the Gate of Jochania ?" " Because through it
Jochania went out in his captivity." In the east was the Gate Nicanor, and in it were two
wickets, one on the right, and one on the left, and two in the west, which were nameless.

'CHAPTER III.

' I. The altar was 32 cubits square. It ascended a cubit and receded a cubit. This was
the foundation. It remains 30 cubits square. It ascended 5 cubits and receded i cubit.
This is the circuit (or compass). It remains 28 cubits square. It ascended 3 cubits and
receded i cubit ; this was the place of the horns. It remains 26 cubits square. The place
of the path for the feet of the priests was a cubit on each side. The hearth remains 24 cubits
square. Rabbi Jose said, "At first it was only 28 cubits square." It receded and ascended
until the hearth remained 20 cubits square ; but when the children of the captivity came up,
they added to it 4 cubits on the north, and 4 cubits on the west, like a gamma it is said ; and
the altar was 12 cubits long by 12 broad, being a square. One might say it was only "a
square of twelve," as is said. Upon its four sides we learn that it measured from the middle
12 cubits to every side. And a line of red paint girdled it in the midst to separate the blood
sprinkled above from the blood sprinkled below. And the foundation was a perfect walk
along on the north side, and all along on the west, but it wanted in the south i cubit, and in
the east i cubit.

' 2. And in the south-western corner were two holes as two thin nostrils, that the blood
poured upon the western and southern foundation should run into them ; and it commingled
in a canal and flowed out into the Kidron.

' 3. Below in the pavement in the same corner there was a place a cubit square, with a

no THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

marble tablet, and a ring fastened in it. Through it they descended to the sewer and cleansed
it. And there was a sloping ascent to the south of the altar, 32 cubits long by 16 broad.
In its western side was a closet, where they put the birds unmeet for the sin-offering.

' 4. The stones of the sloping ascent and the stones of the altar were from the Valley of
Belhcercni. And they digged deeper than virgin soil, and brought from thence perfect stones
over which iron was not lifted up. For iron defiles everything by touching and scratching.
In .iny of them a scratch defiled, but the others were lawful. And they whitewashed them
twice in the year ; once at the passovcr, and once at the feast of Tabernacles. And the
Sanctuary [was whitewashed] once at the passovcr. The Rabbi said, " Every Friday evening
they whitewashed them with a mop on account of the blood." They did not plaster it with
an iron trowel ; " mayhap it will touch and defile." Since iron is made to shorten the days of
man, and the altar is made to lengthen the days of man, it is not lawful that what shortens
should be waved over what lengthens.

' 5. And there were rings to the northern side of the altar, six rows of four each, though
some say four rows of six each. Upon them the priests slaughtered the holy beasts. The
slaughter-house was at the north side of the altar. And in it were eight dwarf ]iillars with
square planks of cedar-wood over them. And in them were fastened iron hooks — three rows
to each pillar. Upon them they hung up [the bodies,] and skinned them upon marble tables
between the i)illars.

' 6. The laver was between the porch and the altar, but inclined more to the south.
Between the porch and the altar were 22 cubits, and there were twelve steps. The height of
each step was \ cubit, and its breadth a cubit — a cubit — a cubit — a landing 3 cubits— a
cubit — a cubit and a landing 3 cubits. And the upper one a cubit — a cubit, and the landing
4 cubits. Rabbi Jehudah said, " The upper one a cubit — a cubit, and the landing 5 cubits.''

'7. The doorway of the porch was 40 cubits high, and 20 broad. Over it were five
carved oak beams. The lower one extended beyond the doorway a cubit on either side.
The one over it extended a cubit on either side. It follows that the uppermost was 30 cubits ;
and between each one there was a row of stones.

' 8. And beams of cedar were fixed from the wall of the Temple to the wall of the porch,
lest it should bulge. And in the roof of the porch were fastened golden chains, upon which
the young priests climbed up, and saw the crowns. As it is said, " And the crowns shall be
to Helem, and to Tobijah, and to Jedaiah, and to Hen, the son of Zephaniah, for a memorial
in the Temple of the Lord." And over the doorway of the Temple was a golden vine sup-
ported upon the buttresses. Every one who vowed a leaf, or a berry, or a cluster, he brought
it and hung it upon it. Said Rabbi Eleazar, the son of Zadok, " It is a fact, and there were
numbered three hundred priests to keep it bright."

'CHAPTER IV.

' I. The doorway of the Temple was 20 cubits in height, and 10 in breadth. And it had
four doors, two within and two without, as is said, " Two doors to the Temple and the Holy
Place." The outside [doors] opened into the doorway to cover the thickness of the wall, and
the inside doors opened into the Temple to cover [the space] behind the doors, because the
whole house was overlaid with gold excepting behind the doors. Rabbi Judah said, " They
stood in the middle of the doorway, and they were in a manner turned back and folded
behind themselves i\ cubits ; and those 2\ cubits, \ cubit the jamb on this side, and \ cubit

JERUSALEM. in

the jamb on the other side." It is said, "Two doors to two doors folding back, two leaves to
one door and two leaves to the other."

' 2. And the great gate had two wickets, one in the north, and one in the south. Through
the one in the south no man ever entered. And with regard to it Ezekiel declared, as is
said, " The Lord said unto me : This gate shall be shut, it shall not be opened, and no man
shall enter in by it ; because the Lord, the God of Israel, hath entered in by it, therefore it
shall be shut." The priest took the key, and opened the wicket, and went into the little
chamber, and from the chamber to the Temple. Rabbi Judah said, " He went in the thick-
ness of the wall, until he found himself standing between the two gates, and he opened the
outside gates from inside, and the inside from outside."

' 3. And there were 38 little chambers, fifteen in the north, fifteen in the south, and eight
in the west. The northern and southern ones were [placed] five over five, and five over
them ; and in the west three over three, and two over them. To each were three doors : one
to the little chamber on the right, one to the little chamber on the left, and one to the little
chamber over it. And in the north-eastern corner were five gates : one to the little chamber
on the right, and one to the little chamber over it, and one to the gallery, and one to the
wicket, and one to the Temple.

' 4. The lowest row was five cubits, and the roofing si.x cubits, and the middle row si.x,
and the roofing seven, and the upper was seven, as is said, " The nethermost chamber was
5 cubits broad, and the middle 6 cubits broad, and the third 7 cubits broad."

' 5. And a gallery ascended from the north-eastern corner to the south-western corner.
Through it they went up to the roofs of the little chambers. One went up in the gallery with
his face to the west. So he proceeded all along the northern side, till he reached the west.
On reaching the west, he turned his face southward, going along the west side, till he reached
the south. On reaching the south, he turned his face to the east ; he went along the south
side till he arrived at the door of the upper story, because the door of the upper story
opened in the south side. And at the door of the upper story were two cedar beams. By
them they went up to tlie roof of the upper story, and on its summit pointed pieces separated
between -the Holy and the Holy of Holies. And in the attic, trapdoors opened to the Holy
of Holies. Through them they let down the workmen in bo.xes, lest they should feast their
eyes in the Holy of Holies,

'6. The Temple measured 100 cubits, and its height 100. The foundation 6 cubits, and
the height [of the wall] 40 cubits, and the string course i cubit, and the rain channel 2 cubits,
and the beams i cubit, and the covering plaster i cubit ; and the height of the upper story
was 40 cubits, and the string course i cubit, and the rain channel 2 cubits, and the beams
1 cubit, and the covering plaster i cubit, and the battlement 3 cubits, and the scarecrow
I cubit. Rabbi Judah said, " The scarecrow was not counted in the measurement ; but the
battlement was 4 cubits."

'7. From east to west there were 100 cubits, the wall of the porch 5, and the porch 11,
and the wall of the Temple 6, and the interior 40, and the partition space [between the
Vails] I, and the Holy of Holies 20 cubits. The wall of the Temple was 6, and the little
chamber 6, and the wall of the little chamber 5. From north to south there were 70 [cubits,]
the wall of the gallery 5, the gallery 3, the wall of the little chamber 5, the little chamber 6,
the wall of the Temple 6, its interior 20, the wall of the Temple 6, the little chamber 6, the
wall of the little chamber 5, the place for the descent of the water 3, and the wall 5 cubits.
The porch was extended beyond it 15 cubits in the north, and 15 in the south; and this

1 1 2 THE sun VE J ' OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

space was called "The House of the Instruments of Slaughter," because the knives were there
deposited. And the Temple was narrow behind and broad in front, and it was like a lion,
as is said, " Ho ! Ariel, the city where David dwelt, as a lion is narrow behind and broad in
front, so the Sanctuary is narrow behind and broad in front."

' CHAPTER V.

' I. The length of the whole court was 187 cubits. The breadth 135. From east to
west 187. The place for the tread of the feet of Israel was 11 cubits. The place for the
tread of the priests 11 cubits. The altar 32. Between the porch and the altar 22 cubits.
The Temple 100 cubits; and 11 cubits behind the House of Atonement (or Temple).

'2. I'"rom north to south there were 135 cubits. The sloping ascent and the altar 62.
From the altar to the rings 8 cubits. The space for the rings 24. From the rings to the
tables 4. From the tables to the pillars 4. From the pillars to the wall of the court 8 cubits.
And the remainder between the slojMng ascent and the wall, and the place of the pillars.

' 3. In the court were 6 chambers, three in the north, and three in the south. In the
north, the chamber of salt, the chamber of Parva, the chamber of washers. In the chamber
of salt they added salt to the offerings. In the chamber of Parva they salted the skins of the
offerings, and upon its roof was the bath house for the high priest on the day of atone-
ment. In the chamber of washers they cleansed the inwards of the offerings ; and from
thence a gallery extended up to the top of the house of Parva.

'4. In the south were the chamber of wood, the chamber of the draw-well, and the
chamber of hewn stone. The chamber of wood, said Rabbi Eleazar, the son of Jacob, " I
forget for what it served." Abashaul said, "The chamber of the high priest was behind
them both, and the roof of the three chambers was even. In the chamber of the captivity
was sunk the well with the wheel attached to it, and from thence water was supplied to the
whole court. In the chamber of Hewn Stone the great Sanhedrin of Israel sat, and judged
the priesthood, and the priest in whom defilement was discovered, clothed in black, and
veiled in black, went out and departed ; and when no defilement was found in him, clothed
in white, and veiled in white, he went in and served with his brethren the priests. And they
made a feast-day, because no defilement was found in the seed of Aaron the Priest, and thus
they said, "Blessed be the Place. Blessed be He, since no defilement is found in the seed
of Aaron. And blessed be He who has chosen Aaron and his sons to stand and minister
before the Lord in the House of the Holy of Holies."'

III. The Holy Sepulchre and Calvary.

It is agreed by all authorities that the Sepulchre and the site of the
Crucifixion were close together, and that both were outside the walls of
Jerusalem at the time of the Crucifi.xion. There is, however, a double con-
troversy on this subject. First, as regards the true site of the Sepulchre
and Calvary. Secondly, as regards the site of the Church built by
Constantine over what he supposed to be the true sites. Williams,

JERUSALEM. 113

Fergusson, and De Vogiie agree in supposing that the true site was
known in Constantine's time ; Captain Conder follows Robinson in
supposing that the true site was not then known. All authorities, how-
ever, with the exception of Mr. Fergusson, have agreed that Constantine's
Basilica stood on the same site with the present Holy Sepulchre Church,
while Mr. Fergusson points to the Sakhrah, or Holy Rock, in the Haram,
as the tomb round which Constantine built his Martyrlum, and supposes
that the traditional site was transferred from this spot to the present
traditional locality in the eleventh century, about 1030 a.d., or rather
later.

First, as regards the true site of the Holy Sepulchre, it must be noted
that we have no account of the locality after that contained in the Gospels
until the year 326 a.d. Secondly, it should be remembered that wherever
the second wall may have been, the present site of the Holy Sepulchre
was, according to every authority, within the Third Wall, which was
commenced (to include the undefended suburbs) only eleven years after the
Crucifixion. This would seem to lead to the supposition that the present
site was already surrounded by houses at the time of the Crucifixion, in
which case Jewish law (Mishnah Baba Bathra, ii. 9) would have forbidden
entombment on the spot. The arguments of Chateaubriand and Williams
in favour of the site having been known in the fourth century, should be
read with those of Robinson against such a supposition ; but there is no
literary evidence between the years 31 and 326 a.d., when Helena, mother
of Constantine, is said to have recovered the true site.

Captain Conder has recently proposed to accept the existing Jewish
tradition, which identifies the cliff above the grotto of Jeremiah with the
place of public execution called 'House of Stoning' in the Mishnah
(Sanhedrin, vi. i). He points to a single Jewish tomb west of this cliff
as a possible site of the Holy Sepulchre, and this view, besides having
tradition in its favour, has, moreover, the advantage that this site is without
the limits of the Third Wall as restored by De Vogiie, Warren, Lewin, and
other recent authorities.

We must now turn to the most curious and interestino; of all the
existing controversies, namely, that which refers to the position of the
buildings erected by Constantine over the sites which he supposed to be
those of the Holy Sepulchre and of the Calvary Mount.

114 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

All writers who have published their views since 1847 have agreed in
supposinn^ that Constantine's sites were the same now covered by the
Cathedral of the Holy So-pulchre, with exception of Mr. J. Fergusson,
who points to the Dome of the Rock as being the Martyrium of Con-
stantine, and to the Golden Gate as representing the propylea of
Constantine's Basilica. Robinson, Williams, Lewin, Willis, De V^ogiie,
Warren, Conder, and others, although differing in other points, agree in
rejecting Mr. Fergusson's view, and since it was first proposed no author
has published any work in its favour. Mr. Fergusson is nevertheless
still convinced (as shown by his publication of the ' Temples of the Jews,'
in 1S73) of the truth of his theory, and believes that it will finally obtain
acceptance.

The main ground of Mr. Fergusson's belief is found in the architectural
style of the two buildings just mentioned — the Golden Gate and the Dome
of the Rock. These he states to be evidently Christian work of the
fourth century, and he compares them to existing buildings of that age in
Rome and at Spalatro, contrasting them also with the later work of
Justinian in St. Sophia at Constantinople. Mr. Fergusson rejects the
statement of the Paschal Chronicle, repeated by other early writers, that
Constantine's buildings were destroyed in 614 a.d., and he applies to
Constantine's work the descriptions of Arculphus, Willibald, and Bernard,
in the seventh, eighth, and ninth centuries. Mr. Fergusson rejects the
evidence of the inscriptions of 'Abd el Melek and Mamun as being
forgeries of the eleventh century a.d. He likewise rejects the testimony
of the Arab writers of the fifteenth century (Mejr ed Din, Jelal ed Din,
Kemal ed Din) as representing only Moslem tradition of the origin of the
buildings, and he claims to be supported by the Christian descriptions of
the Holy Sites in the fourth century and the seventh. He places archi-
tectural evidence before all other, and it was from architectural considera-
tions that his theory first arose.

With respect to this architectural evidence it must, however, be noticed
that his views are controverted by the Due de Vogue, on the ground that
the Christian buildings in the Hauran and in Palestine itself lead to quite
a different conclusion as to the dates of the older existing buildings in the
Haram area. He compares the Golden Gate with a gateway at el
Barah (belonging to the sixth century a.d.), and contrasts it with

JERUSALEM. 115

Constantine's Basilica at Bethlehem, the style of which he pronounces to
be earlier and purer (cf. 'Temple de Jerusalem,' p. 68). He accordingly
attributes the Golden Gate to the Emperor Justinian, while he accepts
the evidence of inscriptions and of Arab writers as proving that the Dome
of the Rock was built by 'Abd el IMelek in 688 a.d., although the columns
used to support the dome were taken, he believes, from Christian build-
ings of Constantine or of Justinian.

With regard to the Dome of the Rock, the Byzantine style of its
mosaics is not disputed by those who suppose it to be the work of 'Abd
el Melek. They account for it by supposing Byzantine builders to have
been employed, as in other cases of buildings erected by the early Arab
Khalifs, and they point to the Sassanian architecture of Persia — which
has much in common with Byzantine style — as being more truly illustra-
tive of the Jerusalem building than are any existing remains of the work
of Constantine. They also insist on the improbability that the great
Cufic inscription of 72 a.h., the eight inscriptions of El JMamiin, and the
Karmatic inscription in the dome itself, should be forgeries in different
styles of writing, all attributable to the eleventh century at earliest.

With some difference of detail, Willis and De Voglie agree in restoring
the buildings of Constantine on the site of the present Cathedral of the
Holy Sepulchre. The plan so drawn is similar to that of the Bethlehem
Basilica, also built by Constantine, consisting of an atrium, narthex,
basilica, and apse, in which the tomb itself stood, with propylea opening
on the east, of which remains are supposed still to exist in a row of pillar
shafts.

All writers except Mr. Fergusson agree in crediting the destruction of
Constantine's work in 614 a.d., as related by a contemporary writer in the
Paschal or Alexandrine Chronicle, also by Antiochus, then Abbot of St.
Saba, and repeated by the later writers, Theophanes and Eutychius
(' Annales,' ii., p. 213). They also all agree in supposing the accounts of
Arculphus, Willibald, and Bernard to refer to the chapels built by
Modestus on the same site, and they consider the descriptions of these
writers, together with those of the Bordeaux Pilgrim, of Eusebius, and
Eucherius, clearly to indicate that Constantine's sites were the same now
shown. As regards the transference of tradition supposed by Mr.
Fergusson, it may be admitted that several sites certainly were trans-

Ii6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

ferred in the twelfth century to new locaHtics ; but at the time when Mr.
Fcrgusson supposes the transference of Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre to
have been effected (1031-1048 a.d.), pilcjrimages were very numerous; and
Eutychius, in the tenth century ('Annalcs,' ii., pp. 421-429), appears already
to refer to the Holy Sepulchre Church as distinct from the Dome of the
Rock. He says that a new dome was erected over the Church of the
Sepulchre in the reign of el Mamfin (813-832 a.d.), which was higher than
the Dome of the Mosque, which was repaired by the same Khalif.

Without wishing to do more than indicate the various opinions held
on this question, it may be remarked that, if the view of De Vogue and
Warren as to the extent of the Temple Enclosure be accepted, it becomes
impossible to place the real site of the Holy Sepulchre at the Sakhrah
Rock, which, according to the traditions which Captain Conder has
endeavoured to show to be reliable, was the Foundation-Stone of the Holy
of Holies. It also becomes improbable that this site could have been
that supposed by Constantine to be the true one ; because the statue of
Hadrian, beside the lapis pertttsus, was still standing in the time of
Jerome, and supposed to mark the site of the Jewish Temple. Mr.
Fergusson, however, denies that the lapis perhisus, or ' pierced stone,'
was the present Sakhrah, and also denies that the Sakhrah purified by
Omar was the present Holy Rock. A Moslem transference of tradition,
as well as a Christian one, must therefore have occurred if Mr. Fergusson
is correct in his contention. The literary evidence has long ago been
canvassed and exhausted ; but it is much to be desired that a competent
architectural authority should pronounce an opinion, independent and
unbiased, on the architectural evidence on which Mr. Fergusson's theory
mainly rests. It will, however, be clear from these notes that the
discoveries of Colonel Warren, and the surveys of Colonel Sir C. Wilson,
have profoundly affected those great questions of Jerusalem topography
concerning which differences of opinion still exist.

C. R. C.

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PART I.

EXPLORATIONS IN JERUSALEM.

The Ordnance Survey of Jerusalem was executed by Captain (now
Colonel Sir Charles) Wilson, in 1864, and published in 1865, with special
plans of the Haram Enclosure, and of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ;
and a folio of notes and plans. Fourteen excavations were carried out
under Captain Wilson's direction, as detailed in the ' Ordnance Survey
Notes.' (See 'Explorations since 1869.') The results were mainly
negative, but were valuable as dispelling various erroneous opinions con-
cerning the ancient topography of the city.

The labours of Captain (now Colonel Sir Charles) Warren com-
menced in the spring of 1S67, and he left Jaffa on 13th April, 1870.
His excavations were carried on under difficulties of every kind, in face
of the opposition of the local government, and in spite of continual
fevers, and of lack of funds. The mines were driven to extraordinary
depths : one at the south-east angle of the Haram being 80 feet
deep, and another near the north-east angle being 120 feet beneath
the surface, where it reached the rock. In consequence of the great
depths, the scarcity of mining frames, and the treacherous character
of the ddbris through which the shafts and galleries were driven, the
work was one of unusual danger and delicacy, requiring much courage
and determination. Colonel Warren and the non-commissioned officers
of his staff worked constantly with their lives in their hands, and
often undertook operations from which the native workmen recoiled.
The prudence and discipline of the party, however, secured valu-

ii8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

able discoveries without accident, and it is generally acknowledged
that the results are of an importance which fully repays the labour and
difficulty of the operations.

Colonel Warren's excavations include : ist, Those outside the walls of
the Haram ; 2nd, Those in the city itself; 3rd, Explorations in the
vicinity of Jerusalem, which are noticed in Part II. of the present volume.
The points on the Haram wall which were specially examined include the
West Wall at Wilson's Arch, at the Prophet's Gate, and at the south-west
angle, where the pier of the great Tyropoeon Bridge was discovered ; the
Soiith Wall, west of the Double Gateway, at the Single Gateway, and at
the south-east angle ; the East Wall, at the south-east angle and near
the north-east angle.

The excavations in the city itself include the examination of the East
wall of the city near St. Stephen's Gate ; of the Birket Israil ; and of the
Twin Pools and their aqueduct at the north-west angle of the Haram.
Excavations were also made in the Muristan, and at the Damascus Gate ;
at the so-called Gennath Gate south of David Street, in the street called
cl Wad, near the Damascus Gate ; while the great Ophel wall was dis-
covered and examined south of the Haram, together with the channels
under the Triple Gate.

The Haram Cisterns, which are enumerated in the Ordnance Survey
Notes, were explored also by Colonel Warren, and the level of the rock
in their roofs was determined, so that the original contour of the hill of
the Sanctuary is now delineated with considerable accuracy.

Outside the city the great shaft at the Virgin's Fountain (see 'Ain
Umm ed Deraj in Part II.), and the Kedron aqueduct (see Bir Eyiib),
were discovered and explored. The old aqueduct on Sion was also dis-
covered by Colonel Warren. (See Birket es Sultan.)

Various explorations since 1S69 are detailed in completion of Colonel
Warren's account of his excavations, those beyond the boundaries of the
modern city walls being enumerated in Part II. of this volume.

The High Sanctuary.

The Haram esh Sherlf, or High Sanctuary, is a quadrangle of about
35 acres in area, or one-sixth of the total area of modern Jerusalem. The

JERUSALEM. 119

angles at the south-west and north-east corners are right angles, and the
south-east angle is 92° 30'. The true bearing of the east wall is 352° 30'
(general direction). The length of the south wall is 922 feet on the level
of the interior. The west wall is 1,601 feet long; the east wall, 1,530 feet.
The north boundary for 350 feet is formed by a scarp of rock 30 feet
high, projecting at the north-west of the Haram.

The modern gateways giving entrance to the interior are eleven in
number ; three on the north and eight on the west. Of the ancient gate-
ways there were two on the south, now called the Double and Triple Gates ;
while east of the latter is the medieeval entrance known as the Single
Gate, beneath which Colonel Warren discovered a passage. On the east
wall is the Golden Gate, now closed ; and two small posterns, in the
modern masonry, are found south of this portal. On the west wall the
Prophet's Gateway (sometimes called Barclay's Gate) is recognised as the
southern of the two Parbar (or Suburban) Gates, mentioned in the
Talmud ; while the northern Suburban Gate appears to have been con-
verted into a tank, and lies immediately west of the Dome of the Rock.
(This is Tank No. 30, Ordnance Survey.)

The raised platform in the middle of the Haram Enclosure has an
area of about 5 acres, and is an irregular quadrangle. The Kubbet es
Sakhrah, or Dome of the Rock, on this platform covers the sacred rock,
which rises 5 feet above the floor of the building, the crest being at the
level 2,440 feet above the Mediterranean. The Dome of the Chain is
immediately to the east of the Kubbet es Sakhrah.

The Jamia el Aksa, or ' distant mosque ' (that is, distant from
Mecca), is on the south, reaching to the outer wall. The whole enclosure
of the Haram is called by Moslem writers Masjid el Aksa, 'praying-place
of the Aksa, ' from this mosque.

For convenience of comparison. Colonel Warren has attached a letter
to each course of the ancient masonry of the Haram walls, and as these
are often referred to in his account of his discoveries, the following table
is prefixed to explain the lettering :

I20

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE,

Return sltoiohig the height of courses in the Sanctuary wall as exposed on surface

and in the several shafts.

Lintel,

The wall would appear to have been built at three epochs,
and therefore the courses arc not of the same height all round :
the boitom of course D is nearly on a level throughout.
Some of the more important levels are eivcn :
Bottom of B, springing of Wilson's Arch . .
„ of I and •;, lintel Prophet's Gale .
„ of C, springing of Robinson's Arch, and

at S.W. Angle 2388 ft.

„ of E and F, great course. Triple Gate . 2380 ft.
„ of course J in columns 11 and 12 . . 3363-2 ft.

3391*6 ft.

2398-5 ft.

— New work.

— Top of drafted work.

— Present surface of

ground.
—Top of rough-faced

work.
—Stones not measured.

—Rock.

—Presumed line of rock.

Lines of Rock.

I.— 2336-75
2. — 2320 ft.

*3.— 2321 ft.
*4. — 2300 ft.

S.— 2289-8 ft.

6. — 2322-4 ft"
* 7-— 2334 ft.

8.— 2380 ft.

9. — 2361 ft.

10. — 2272 ft. 3 in.
11.-2292 ft.
12.— 2327 ft.

* Presumed.

JERUSALEM. 121

The levels given in Colonel Warren's papers and plans are elevations
in feet above the Mediterranean, depending on the bench-marks of the
Ordnance Survey, and on the line of levels run by Colonel Wilson from
Jaffa to Jerusalem.

EXCAVATIONS ROUND THE NOBLE SANCTUARY,

1867— 1870.

From East End of Rock Scarp to Birket Israil.

No rock or wall is visible, the ground being covered with houses.
There are two gateways leading out from the Sanctuary to the Tarik
Bab Sitti Maryam : the Bab al'Atm ('Obscurity'), also called by Mejr
ed Din the Bab al Dawater ; and the Bab Hytta (' Pardon'), which is
also said by the same writer to derive its name from the command to the
Israelites to ask pardon when they entered.

It is to be remarked that the Bab al 'Atm (' Obscurity ') corresponds in
its name to the northern gate of the Temple, Tadi (' Obscurity').

The Birket Israil.

This great reservoir is about 360 feet long, 126 feet wide, and
80 feet deep. It extends along the northern side of the Sanctuary from
the north-cast angle, and is perpendicular to the line of the east wall. Its
eastern end is dammed up by the natural rise of the rock in that direction,
and by a dam thereon 46 feet wide, forming a portion of the old east
wall of the city, which extends without break beyond the north-east angle
of the Sanctuary. (Plates VI. and XVI.)

The pool lies across a valley which commences to the north of the
city wall, east of the Damascus Gate, and passes down between the high
ground of the Mamuniyeh to the west and the Church of St. Anne to the
east. It runs into the Kedron past the Sanctuary wall, at a distance of

JERUSALEM. "23

145 feet south of the north-east angle. This valley is only just perceptible
at the present time, being filled up in parts to a depth of 125 feet, and in
the Sanctuary It is filled up about 140 feet.

The south wall of the pool is thus of masonry ; the north wall also is
probably mostly of masonry ; the west wall is rock ; and the east wall is
partly rock and partly masonry. The pool is filled up with rubbish to a
height of from 2)1 to 50 feet, strongly impregnated by sewage; its
bottom has only been seen at one point — 20 feet from the south side,
and 158 feet from the east side. It is uncertain therefore yet whether
the rocky floor is excavated or whether it is stepped up.

The bed of the pool at tlic point exposed is covered with a very hard
concrete 1 6^ inches thick, made of alternate layers of small stones and
mortar, and floated over with 2-^ inches of very hard and compact plaster
of cement and pottery, at a level of 2,325, the level of the Sanctuary
above being 2,413 feet.

The south wall of the pool Is the north wall of the Sanctuary.

The walls of the pool are lined with small squared stones set with
wide joints, packed with angular stones, in order to give the ccuuent
facing a better hold.

The south side of the pool was examined below the rubbish and found
to be precisely similar to that seen above.

This lining probably covers the ancient masonry of the Noble
Sanctuary on the north.

There are two vaulted parallel passages leading into the western end
of the pool : they are of modern masonry, and are built for the support
of the houses above. (See Plate XVI.) The crowns of these vaults are
slightly pointed, are nearly on a level with the surface of the Noble
Sanctuary, and their sides are cemented over.

The southern passage is 21 feet wide and 134 feet long ; it is closed
at its western end by a wall.

The northern passage is 21 feet wide and 118 feet long, and opens
into a small arched passage, running north and south, of modern con-
struction, and used as a sewer.

These vaults are nearly filled up with sewage and rubbish. The rock
surface falls from the western ends near the crowns of the arches to east,
until, at the entrance to the pool, it is about 40 feet below the crowns.

16 — 2

124

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

A shaft was sunk through the rubbish under the northern vault, at
the entrance to the pool, and at a depth of 14 feet 6 inches a floor of
concrete was found.

The floor has a slope towards the entrance, where there are four
stone steps 16 inches broad and 7 inches in height ; the bottom step is
nearly flush with the west wall of the pool, and from this step to crown
of the arch is 49 feet ; beyond this there is a landing 8 feet broad, and
then a drop of 4 feet. Attempts were made to get through the concrete
at this point, but the instruments could make no impression on it ; the
gallery was then driven down along the face of the concrete to the cast,
which is found to consist of irregular steps. (See woodcut). The concrete

was followed down until, at a point 22 feet above the bottom of the pool,
the rubbish was found to be in too loose a state to work through, and the
gallery has been discontinued ; it is probable that in any case we could
not have continued more than a foot or two deeper, on account of the
water in the pool.

The masonry at the eastern end of the pool is about 45 feet thick, and
its lower portion is part of, and in continuation of, the ancient masonry
forming the Sanctuary east wall. There are two conduits leading out of
the pool, one at a level of about 2,390 feet (described under Shaft H, id) ;
the other appears to be the original outlet to the pool, and requires a
full description. It was discovered in May, 1869, when driving the
gallery along the so-called Tower of Antonia on east side. It runs east

JERUSALEM.

125

and west, is 3 feet 9 inches high and about 2 feet wide. (See Plate XVI.)
Its western end is closed by a perforated stone having three round
holes, each 5^ inches in diameter, and below these there appears to have
been a basin to collect water. At its eastern end it opens out through
the Sanctuary wall. There are three openings on the east side, at
Courses y, N and P. The upper opening at P is to throw light upon the
passage, is 3 inches high, and runs along the width of the passage.

The floor of this light shaft falls about one in one, and opens through

.Igiig'Ktr'

the roof of the conduit upon the doorway of a staircase leading into the
conduit through the solid wall from above.

This staircase entrance is in Course N, and is about 1 2 feet from east
side of dam. The staircase was jammed up with rubbish and stones, and
attempts were made to clear it out, but after getting up 28 feet the
danger became so great that it had to be abandoned. The staircase is
very steep, at an angle of one in one, and appears to have been cut out
of the solid after the wall was built.

The roof of the conduit is the bottom of Course ]\I. The stones are

126 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

of large size, from 14 to 16 feet in length, and vary from 4 feet 6 inches
to 3 feet 10 inches in height.

The actual height of the conduit is about 1 2 feet, but the rubbish
from the staircase has nearly choked it up in the centre. The roof is
stepped down 4 feet at about 1 1 feet from the western end. The appear-
ance of this passage seemed to be similar to that discovered under the
Single Gate in October, 1S67, and it is evident that it was built at
the same time as the wall or dam ; and taking the perforated stone as
the K:vcl of the overflow, the level of the water in the pool could not
have stood higher than 2,347 f^t:t ; that of the floor of the pool being
2,325 feet, thus giving an original depth of 22 feet to the water in
IJirket Israil.

The old floor of the conduit has been torn up, apparently at some
comparatively recent period, for the purpose of letting the water out at a
somewhat lower level, and for this purpose an irregular hole has been
knocked through the wall at Course P, but a portion of the ancient exit
for the water can still be seen at the bottom of Course O, where there
is a neatly cut channel about 5 inches square.

A roughly built masonry shaft has been constructed around on the
outside of the opening from Course M to Course P, and there is a
rough drain about 2 feet high and 9 inches wide to carry away the water
to east. (See Plate XVI.)

These alterations are of a very rough description, appear to be of
recent date, and the workmen have left their mark on the wall in the
shape of a Christian cross of the Byzantine type.

The top of the dam serves as a road from St. Stephen's Gate to the
Sanctuary.

St. STEriiEx's Gate to Golden Gate, Inxluding Nortii-East Angle

01' Noble Sanctuary.

The eastern wall of the Noble Sanctuary is terminated on the north
above ground by the so-called Tower of Antonia, which measures on the
surface of the ground 83 feet 10 inches from north to south.

The north-east angle of this tower is the north-east angle of the Noble
Sanctuary. From this north-east angle to St. Stephen's Gate, the wall

JERUSALEM. 127

forming the east side of the Birket Israil is built (above the surface of the
ground) with small-sized stones having no marginal draft, and between
the wall and the masonry of the north-east angle above ground there
is a straight joint, but near the rock the old wall continues past the
north-east angle, forming the eastern side of the Birket Israil. (See
page 122.)

In the Tower of Antonia there are five complete courses of large
marginal-drafted stones still in situ, and at the northern end there are
eleven courses above the surface, reaching to a height of about 40 feet.
The height of each course averages 3 feet 7|- inches, and the marginal
drafts vary from \\ to ^\ inches.

The stones are similar to those in the Wailing Place, and are of con-
siderable weight, one being over 24 feet in length. The remainder of the
tower, up to a height of 45 feet from the surface, is built of small squared
stones of more than one date, apparently Saracenic.

It may be pointed out that the production on plan of the wall of
the tower falls upon the junction of the wall with the Golden Gate,
and if still further produced, coincides with the wall running north from
the south-east angle for some distance.

It is thus apparent that the foundation of the east wall is in one line,
although the superstructure as now seen above ground has more than one
bend in its length.

It would appear, from what is seen on surface and the results of ex-
cavation, that between the Tower of Antonia and the Golden Gate the
ancient masonry was composed of large stones with marginal drafts and
rough projecting faces, from foundations to a level with the sill of the
Golden Gate, while those of the Tower itself have rough projecting faces
only as high as Course P, and above that the stones are dressed as those
in the Wailing Place. (See Plates XII.— XIV.)

The present surface of the ground is nearly level from St. Stephen's
Gate to the Golden Gate, but beneath the surface the ground falls
steeply and rises again, forming the mouth of the valley which runs south
through the Birket Israil.

The excavations made by the Palestine Exploration Fund about the
north-east angle are pronounced by Sir Charles Wilson to be without
parallel in the history of excavation.

128 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The deepest shaft struck the rock at a depth of 125 feet below the
surface, and in one shaft alone no less than 600 feet run of shaft and
gallery was excavated. The results of these excavations will now be
given.

Shaft D, South-east Angle ok so-called Tower of Antonia.

The ' Castle of Antonia,' as it is popularly called, appears on the surface
of the ground to be of separate construction to the Sanctuary wall to the
south of it, and projects 7 feet beyond it. The tower is formed of stones
with manjinal drafts like those at the Wailing Place, while the wall to the
south is formed of marginal drafted stones with rough projecting faces.
On arriving at the angle of this tower in the gallery (level 2,363 feet
3 inches), about 42 feet below the surface it was found that the projection
of the tower only amounted to 2 feet ; and though the stones of the tower
were like those at the Wailing Place, and those to south of it had rough
projecting faces, yet at this point these two different faces were cut
on one and the same stone, the stone being cut back from 2 to 4 feet,
at the angle of the tower. No doubt at no great distance above the
gallery the stones are bonded together like those to be seen above
ground.

As the courses of the wall are set back from 4 to 7 inches, while the
same courses in the tower are set back only about ig- inches, this pro-
jection of the tower gradually diminishes until at the sixth course (/') it
disappears altogether. It will be found that the rate of diminution of the
projection of the tower, of from 7 to 2 feet, from the surface to the level
of gallery (42 feet), is similar to that from the level of the gallery to the
top of Course P. From this point down to the rock the wall and tower
are in one and the same line, the stones in each course setting back about
4 to 5 inches. (Plates XII.— XIV.)

The twenty-one courses in this shaft average about 3 feet 5 inches in
height, and vary from 2 feet 7 inches to 4 feet. The marginal drafts
average about 4 to 5 inches. All the faces of the stones above Course P
are much worn. The face of the stones in Course X was very faulty, and
its irregularities were filled up with small stones and mortar, rendered on
the outside to look like stone.

JERUSALEM. 129

On the third course from the rock (Course c) some red painted
characters were found. The face of the stone was not dressed, but in
the working of it a large piece had split off, leaving a smooth face, and on
this the characters were painted. In one case the letter appeared to
have been painted on before the stone was laid, as the trickling from the
paint was on the upper side. (Plates XIII. — XV. and XXI.)

Notes on Soil, Etc.

Commenced 7th July, 1869, on the level 2,363 feet 3 inches. At first
the soil was good, with here and there some very large cut stones which
required breaking up. Subsequently loose stone-chippings were met with.
At a depth of 45 feet (level 2,318 feet) red earth mixed with small stones
was met with.

Along the top of the sixteenth course (Z), which is set out ']\ inches,
at level 2,310 feet 7 inches (?), was found a small drain, similar to that
found on the top of the same course in Shaft A, D, C. It was 6^ inches
deep and 5 inches wide, and could be examined for 10 feet to the south.
To the north it was found to run into a small catch-pit or tank, 5 feet
7 inches deep, 2 feet 9 inches from north to south, and 3 feet from east to
west, situated about i foot 6 inches from the Sanctuary wall. It was
covered with a piece of stone flagging much cracked and shaken. The
sides of the tank were rendered with plaster, but no pottery intermixed.
The inlet for the water was in the north-east corner, and the outlet in
the south-west corner of the tank. The duct leading into the tank was
I foot 4 inches wide. There was a deposit of mud 1 2 inches deep in the
tank.

At a depth of 54 feet (level 2,309 feet), 4 feet of stone-chippings were
met with. The rock was reached at a depth of 70 feet 6 inches (level
2,292 feet 9 inches). The rock rises abruptly to the north, about 8 feet
in the width of the shaft.

Gallery along East Wall of Sanctuary.

Commenced 5th June, 1869. From a point (/) iS feet south of the
north-east angle, a gallery was driven along the wall (level 2,363 feet 3

I30 THE SURVEY OF WESTERX PALESTINE.

inches) to north, past where the straight joint between the Castle of
Antonia and city wall should occur ; but no straight joint was found to
exist. The wall runs on without a break of any kind, and there is no
projection. At 26 feet (or 6 feet beyond the north-cast angle) was found
the light shaft to overllow aqueduct, described on page 126. As far as
33 feet the soil was good, then stone chippings with layers of concrete
were encountered to a distance of 58 feet, and at 64 feet a concrete
floor ascending to north. To a distance of 65 feet the stones were
all like those at the Wailing- Place, but beyond this to 75 feet they
had rough projecting faces (projections about 6 to 10 inches) with well-cut
marginal drafts. It is to be observed that this wall was traced consider-
ably beyond the point where the massive wall in Shaft 1 1 was found, and
therefore the two walls do not appear to be connected. In consequence of
the proximity of the graveyard above, no attempt could be made to
examine the wall nearer the surface than 2,363 feet 3 inches.

From the point (/>) the gallery was driven to south (at level 2,363 feet
3 inches) to the southern angle of the tower (where Shaft D was sunk),
and continued along the wall of the Sanctuary to the south. (See
Plate XIII.)

In the tower the stones were like those at the Wailing Place, while in
the wall they have rough projecting faces.

Shaft E, 14th June, 1869. — The southern side of shaft was 66 feet
6 inches north of the southern angle of the tower on the level 2,363 feet
3 inches. It was sunk through black earth mixed with chips of stones,
about 12 inches cube, with a few larger stones which required to be
broken up. At 1 1 feet 6 inches it came on two pieces of flao-o-Ino-

2 feet 6 inches square and 7 inches thick, with the dressed sides
downwards. At level of 2,346 feet the soil changed to stone chippings,
which continued until the rock was reached at level of 2,327 feet

3 inches.

The stones in Courses K to O were much worn, but like those at
the Wailing Place ; but below from Course P to T the stones had the
usual marginal drafts, with rough projecting faces (sec Plate XIII). The
rock steps down steeply to south.

JERUSALEM.

1.^,1

Record of the Shafts ABC, South of the so-called Tower

OF Antonia.

In speaking of this shaft, the projecting southern angle of the tower
(of Antonia) at the north-east angle of the Sanctuary (at the level 2,363
feet 3 inches) is taken as the point of departure. This shaft was com-
menced the 1st December, 1869, at the level 2,363 feet 3 inches, its
southern edge being 63 feet south of the angle of the tower, and it
was kept close alongside the Sanctuary wall ; the width of the shaft was
3 feet.

In consequence of the projecting faces of the stones of the w'all, and
the set-off of from 3 to 5 inches on each course, the sinking of this shaft
so close to the wall was barely practicable, and after arriving at a depth
of 60 feet it was found necessary to run a gallery north and south, and to
commence fresh shafts for the further depths from this gallery.

The shafts A, B, and C had their three southern edges respectively at
distances of 104 feet 6 inches, 72 feet 6 inches, and 45 feet from the angle
of the tower, and were continued until the rock was reached in each case.
In the following record there is first an account of the earth passed
through in the second shafts and gallery, then a description of the wall,
and, finally, some remarks on the manner in which the stones were let
into the rock. The deductions arrived at will be spoken of when the
whole of the work at the north-east angle is considered.

Nature of Soil m Shafts A, B, C.

I St December, 1869. — Commenced on level 2,363 feet 3 inches.
Southern edge of shaft, 63 feet south of the angle of the tower.

The stones of the Sanctuary wall have rough marginal drafts, and
rough faces projecting from 10 to 16 inches. The soil was black, firm and
good to a depth of 1 7 feet 6 inches (level of 2,345 feet 9 inches) ; then loose
earth among large broken stones, some of them rough-hewn, others well-
dressed with marginal drafts. These stones were of various sizes, from
I 2 inches to 2 feet 6 inches cube ; some of them were of large size, over
4 feet in length. Not a particle of earth was to be found among these

17—2

132 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

at about 28 feet depth. This work was of a very dancjcrous and
difficult nature, and occupied the party until i ith December.

At 31 feet (level 2,332 feet 3 inches) these stones and chippings ter-
minated, and to 36 feet (level 2,327 feet 3 inches) alternate layers of black
soil and small stones were met with, like an old surface soil — each layer
of earth about 6 inches thick, and each layer of stone about 9 inches
thick.

Very loose chippings of stone without any earth were now met with to
a depth of 50 feet (level 2,313 feet 3 inches). The size of the stones was
from 3 inches to 9 inches cube.

19th December. — Passed through solid black earth, sloping in layers to
the east until 56 feet (level 2307 feet 3 inches), when a layer, 3 inches
thick, of red clay mixed with stones was reached, sloping down to east.

At 53 feet (level 2,310 feet 3 inches) a small drain was found, 4 inches
wide, and 5 inches deep, running along the Sanctuary wall on top of
Course Z, evidently the same drain that was met with in the shaft at
the angle of tower ; it w'as made of small stones and mortar, which had
become very hard, having apparently been mixed with oil. Below this
drain several pieces of tessera were found ; they are similar to those
found about Jerusalem, supposed to be Roman. Several specimens were
sent to England ; they have a high polish.

Taking advantage of the solid nature of the soil above this layer of
clay, a gallery was driven north and south along the Sanctuary wall at a
level of 2,302 feet 9 inches, to act as a landing for the earth brought uji
from the deeper shafts. To the north for 20 feet this gallery was driven
through hard black earth. To the south for 40 feet the gallery passed
through hard black earth sloping to south ; on the top of this was earth
mixed with small chippings sloping to south i in 20, and above that
again a layer of chippings falling to south i in 4. Three shafts (A, B, C)
were sunk along the Sanctuary wall to the rock from this gallery.

Shaft B. — 28th December. — Distance of southern side of shaft from
angle of tower, 72 feet 6 inches (level 2,302 feet 9 inches). Sunk through
2 feet of black soil, and then through loose stones and earth, with some
broken pieces of pottery intermixed to a level of 2,296 feet, then through
2 feet of stone chippings, stones about 3 inches cube, with a little earth, the
layer falling to north. Thence through stones and wet earth to a total

JERUSALEM. ' i33

depth of 80 feet (level 2,283 feet 3 inches), on ist January, i8;o, when the
rock was found sloping to the north.

In the gallery driven along the rock to the north, some large stones
were encountered lying in the wet mud.

Shaft C. — 1 2th January, 1870. — Distance of southern edge of shaft from
angle of tower, 45 feet (level 2,302 feet 9 inches). Two feet of stone
chippings were met with, and then firm dark soil to a depth of 10 feet
6 inches (2,292 feet 3 inches), when stone chippings were met with for
3 feet, resting on the rock, which was found at 2,289 feet, sloping rapidly
to south, and stepped down for the reception of the stones of the wall.

A gallery was driven to south along wall to meet that from Shaft B.
On the rock lying in the wet mud were found large masses of rough stones,
which do not appear to have been dressed, and above these stones layers
of stone chippings.

Shaft A. — 2nd February, 1870. — Distance of southern side of shaft
from angle of tower, 104 feet 6 inches (level 2,302 feet 9 inches). Sunk
through 18 inches of hard black soil, then through a layer of blue clay
without stone or grit in it, from 9 inches to 12 inches thick, and sloping
to east and south i in 12. Underneath this was a layer of stone
chippings, very hard on top, like concrete, then layers of stone chippings
and earth until rock was met with at a depth of 2,289 feet east of the
wall, and at 2,286 at the wall.

Wall of Sanctuary, Shafts A, B, and C.

The whole of the masonry laid bare in these shafts is of one description.
The stones have marginal drafts and rough projecting faces. The courses
average 3 feet 6 inches in height, and vary from 2 feet 10 inches to 4 feet
in height.

The drafts average about 4 to 5 inches in width, and vary from 3
inches to 7 inches. The projections are of all shapes and forms, being
evidently the shape of the stone as it was in the rough ; they sometimes
amount to 2 feet, but the average projection is about 1 2 inches. Each
course is set back on that below it about 3 to 4 inches, but there is no
constant dimension. Twenty-five courses were laid bare in this shaft, viz.
from K to Z, and from a to /. The courses at Z and a have been partially

134 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

plastered over below the drain and tesscrcE. The total depth of this shaft
from gallery to lowest stone let into rock was 85 feet (level 2,278 feet
3 inches). The ground above, on surface, is at a level 2,404, so that the
di'bris covering up the wall is no less than 125 feet in depth.

The extreme height of the wall as it at present exists is 166 feet, and
the height of the interior of the Sanctuary at this point, above the lowest
point found in the wall, is 142 feet.

On stone U, at level 2,326 feet, a mark was found; it is difficult to say
whether it is natural or not ; it was so shallow that no impression was
taken on the squeeze- paper.

Rock Exposed in Shafts A, B, and C.

These shafts were sunk for the purpose of ascertaining the position of
the bottom of the ravine, across which the wall of the Sanctuary is built.
The highest and lowest points of rock exposed were as follow :
42 feet 6 inches south of angle of tower, at the level 2,289 feet.
61 feet „ ,, ,, . „ „ 2,278 feet 3 inches.

104 feet 6 inches ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, 2,289 feet.

The lowest point of the ravine thus appears to be at a distance of
61 feet south of the angle of the tower; the rock rising to north about
1 I feet in 19 feet, and to south about 1 1 feet in 43 feet.

There is, however, the possibility that the true bottom of the ravine
lies still further to the south, as the rock does not slope uniformly in a
given direction, but lies in a succession of gende slopes and scarps. The
only indication, however, of the bottom of the ravine lying further to
south is to be found in the fact that in shaft A the layers of black earth
and clay dip to the south.

About 2 feet in front of the wall the rock is to be seen in its natural
state, but at the wall itself it has been stepped and scarped for the recep-
tion of the stones.

At Shaft A the rock is stepped down 3 feet in two steps for the recep-
tion of the foundation stone, and appears to have a fall to west. At Shaft
D the rock is cut down about 1 2 inches, and falls to east. At Shaft C
there is a natural scarp about 7 feet in height where the rock is exposed,

JERUSALEM. _ 13S

and it is cut down in steps for the reception of the foundation stones.
The lowest course running through the Shafts y=/, B and C is that lettered
g ; below this the courses // and i are very irregular, and are merely formed
of stones (some of them not drafted), fitted in to suit the steps cut in the
rock. The plans and sections show this work in detail (Plates XIV.
and XV.)

Shaft 41 Feet South of the Tower.

This shaft, on the level 2,363 feet 3 inches, was commenced 22nd
November, 1869, to expose the courses of stone in Sanctuary wall. Four
courses were exposed, similar to those in the gallery, having good marginal
drafts with rough projecting faces : the average height of courses
was 3 feet 5 inches. See elevation and section (Plates XIV.
and XV.)

Shafts N.E. of the Sanctuary.

Shaft H I (Plate II. and XVII).— At the foot of the mound of
rubbish outside St. Stephen's Gate, at a point about 305 feet east
of the Sanctuary wall. Surface, 2,343 f^^t above sea level. Rock was
found at 6 feet (2,337 feet). Commenced 2nd April, 1869 ; completed
24th April, 1S69.

At this spot some of the local Christians stated that tradition placed
the site of an ancient church.

The rock, on being struck with a jumper, caved in, and a grotto was
discovered, nearly circular on plan, about 9 feet in diameter and 4 feet in
height. It had been used as a tomb, and was divided into five lociiJi by
plaster partitions about 3 inches thick and 12 inches in height. Two of
these lay about north-east to south-west, and three north-west to south-
east.

At the southern side a shaft led down into a chamber (No. 2), 20 feet
6 inches long and 6 feet broad, running north and south, divided latitudinally
into ten loculi, separated as in the chamber above ; one of the middle lociili
served as a passage, opening to east and west into two chambers (Nos. 3
and 4), parallel and similar to No. 2. Other chambers open out from
these, the largest being at the south-east angle of No. 3, where there is a
shaft (about 6 feet deep) leading down into a lower range of chambers, in

136 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

direct length about 40 feet. All these chamljcrs, nine in number, are
divided off into loculi, except one which appears to have been an ante-
room, and in which some pieces of stones with marginal drafts were
found.

The partitions separating the loculi are in some cases cut out of the
rock. The chambers were half full of earth, fallen in from above, and it
was obvious that they had been opened and examined subsequent to their
use as tombs. The earth was moved from one chamber into another,
and search made for further chambers without result. The shafts leadinof
upwards to the surface were not examined except in one case.

The work was continued for twenty-four days. Six pottery lamps of
the early Christian period and some glass vases were found.

The chambers arc cut in the malaki, of a very friable description,
nearly approaching to the kaJmli, and no chisel marks were found in
the rock. The chambers are connected with the surface by vertical
shafts, somewhat on the plan of the Graeco-Phoenician tombs at
Sidon.

Plate XVII. gives a sketch plan of chambers Nos. 2, 3, and 4, with a
section through No. 2. The whole system of caves at this site is of so
irregular a description as to suggest the idea that they are natural grottos
enlarged by the hand of man.

Shaft H 2. — On the north side of the road cast of St. Stephen's Gate,
88 feet 6 inches from the south-east corner of the Cemetery, and 104 feet
from the Ordnance Survey bench mark at the bottom of the road. The
level of the surface is 2,369 feet 6 inches. Rock was found at a level
2,364 feet. The soil 3 feet 6 inches above the rock was of the red virgin
earth.

S/m// II 2). — At the bottom of the road leading east from St. Stephen's
Gate, on the east side of the Cemetery, 70 feet 6 inches north of the
bench mark above-mcniifMied. The surface level is 2,359 feet. Rock
was found at the depth of 2 feet.

Shaft H 4. — On the north side of the rubbish heap outside of, and
256 feet to the east of, St. Stephen's Gate, 4 feet from the south side
of the road leading east. Commenced 9th April, 1869. Surface, 2,390
feet. Rock, 2,369 feet 3 inches.

At 14 feet a small aqueduct, or cistern, of masonry was broken into,

JERUSALEM. i37

about 4 feet 6 inches square, and 6 feet in depth, resting on the levelled
rock at 20 feet 9 inches.

For 13 feet the soil was nearly black, in layers, sloping from north to
south for 1 1 feet, and from west to east to a depth of 1 3 feet, the slope
being 2 in 3. Below this the colour was red, and continued so down
to the rock.

Shaft H 5. — Higher up the road than H 4, and at 162 feet from St.
Stephen's Gate. Commenced 9th April, 1869. Surface, 2,409 feet.
Rock, 2,379 feet. At 30 feet the rock was found scarped down to the
east.

The scarp was followed down for 20 feet, the rock receding under to the
west, and plastered. This was found to be the western side of a tank ;
the northern side was subsequently found. Large stones, apparently a
portion of the vaulting, were found in the tank. For the first 20 feet the
soil was black and loose, apparently rubbish from the city ; from thence to
the rock, loam mixed with stones.

Shaft H (>. — Near the road at 109 feet east of St. Stephen's Gate.
Commenced 12th May, 1869. Level of surface, 2,411 feet. Rock,
2,388 feet 3 inches, falling one in one to the south-east. At 16 feet the
colour of the soil changed from black to a reddish brown. At 8 feet some
pottery was found.

After reaching the rock a gallery was driven to the west in search of
the massive wall found in Shaft H \\. The rock was very soft, and
rose slightly to the west 3 inches in 15 feet. It is then scarped down to
the west to a depth of 8 feet 4 inches, is level for 10 feet, and then rises
in a step of 2\ feet, and continues level to the west. The ditch is filled
in with small stones and earth. The total length of the gallery to west
was 25 feet 8 inches. No signs of any wall as at Shaft H 1 1 existed ;
but probably the gallery was not continued far enough.

Shaft II 7. — At the first angle in the city wall, 43 feet north of St.
Stephen's Gate. Level of surface, 2,419 feet. Rock, 2,400 feet 6 inches.
(Plate XV IL) The wall below ground is similar to that above. At 18 feet
the shaft came on the rock on which the wall is built. The rock is \'ery
soft and decayed, and has been made good with concrete. No appearance
of any foundations more ancient than the present city wall, as seen above
ground, were found. The soil passed through was loose rubbish.

138 THE SURVEY OF WESTERiX PALESTINE.

Shaft II 8. — At a point 200 feet due east of the south conier of the
tower at north-east angle of the Sanctuary. Level of surface, 2,347 feet.
Rock, 2,317 feet 6 inches. Commenced 8th April, 1869. Some broken
pieces of fresco on plaster were found near the rock. The soil was black
for the first 8 feet, then of a brown colour, with the appearance of water
having passed through wiili lime in suspension. A gallery was driven to
the south-west to determine the inclination, but after progressing 1 1 feet,
it had to be tamped up, In consequence of the proximity of loose shingle,
which filled the gallery. The rock was found to slope to the south-east.

Shaft II 9. — At a point 40 feet higher up the hill than Shaft H 8. Level
of surface, 2,364 feet. Rock, 2,317 feet. Commenced 30th April, 1869.
It was sunk 23 feet through black earth, and then through chippings
of stone, I to 2 inches cube, without any earth. At 43 feet the chippings
changed to stones 3 to 4 inches cube, and in getting through these the
chippings began to run, and it was neces.sary to tamp up the shaft to the
level of good soil. A gallery was driven to west for 25 feet at 22 feet
below the surface, and a shaft was sunk through stones 12 inches cube
and mud to a depth of 25 feet. The rock falls i in 4 to south.

Shaft H 10. — At first angle to south of St. Stephen's Gate, at 34 feet
from the gate. Level of surface, 2,410. Rock, 2,390. Commenced
5th May, 1869. The ashlar of city wall reaches to a depth of 11 feet,
resting on concrete formed of stones about 6 inches cube and hard lime.
Concrete rested on rock at a depth of 20 feet. The shaft was then filled
up to the top of the concrete, and a sloping gallery driven to south of the
city wall.

At 19 feet in the gallery a strong rough masonry wall was met with,
lying east and wQSt, about 3 feet thick, which did not reach up to the city
wall by 6 feet. Within this wall to south was a pavement of rough
tesserce, at a level of 2,391 feet. Sergeant Birdes suggests that this was
perhaps the remains of a house, the space between the rough wall and the
city wall having been the doorway. Before reaching the rough wall a
masonry drain, 7 inches by 6 inches in the clear, was crossed below the
level of pavement.

At 38 feet the top of a barrel-drain, or aqueduct, was crossed, and at
40 feet another rough wall, and large cut stones, were found at the east
side and bottom of gallery.

JERUSALEM. 139

At 44 feet 6 inches a shaft was sunk and water found at 4.^ feet below
the sole of the gallery, being 33I feet below the surface of the ground at
the mouth of the shaft. The surface of rock at this point is 2,377 ^et.

The top of the barrel-drain was now examined ; after following it 2 feet
6 inches to west it ended, and another roof of Hat stones, at a rather higher
level, was seen ; and after 8 feet the sides of an aqueduct, running west,
were visible, formed of large squared stones. For the first 10 feet this
passage is only 10 inches wide; after this it is 2 feet wide, the southern
side being formed of large stones 3 feet 6 inches high, 4 feet 6 inches
long, well squared, and exhibiting slight traces of marginal drafts. The
aqueduct was traced to 39 feet in all, and was blocked up by a stone
having fallen down from the roof. In the roof, at about 15 feet from the
entrance, a cylindrical earthenware pipe, 9 inches in diameter, was built in,
apparently to conduct water from a higher level ; also two other pipes,
about 4 inches in diameter, were found laid horizontally above the stones
forming the roof. The aqueduct was in a very decayed state, not safe for
the men to work in ; it apparently leads from the Birket Israil at a level
of 2,390 feet, the bottom of the pool being 2,325 feet.

It seems probable that this drain, or aqueduct, is built at the northern
termination of the Sanctuary wall, and that the marginal drafted stones at
the south side of the drain are a portion of the north side of the old wall.
It is to be observed that the masonry about this portion was found to be in
the most confused state, having apparently been overthrown from its
foundation, or perhaps the wall never existed here. The city wall could
not be found in the vicinity of the drain, in the line of the wall.

On account of the danger of disturbing the graves in the cemetery
overhead, the work in this gallery could only be carried on with the greatest
caution.

Shaft H 1 1. — At a point about 100 feet to east of the Sanctuary wall,
a little north of the north-east angle of the Sanctuary. Level of surface,
2,405 feet. Rock, 2,341. Commenced i6th April, 1869. At a depth of
42 feet an aqueduct was broken through, very rough, and without plaster,
the roof formed by rough stones in form of an arch ; it runs in a north-
westerly direction directly towards the aqueduct found in Shaft // 10. To
the north-west 27 feet were open, and to south-east 20 feet.

The shaft was continued, and at 60 feet the earth changed colour, and

18-2

MO THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

rock was found at 64 feet from the surface ; it is cut in steps, apparently
for resting a foundation on. It falls to west about i in 4.

The shaft was filled up to the level of the aqueduct, and the clearing
out of the portion towards the city wall was commenced. The passage
was 3 feet 6 inches high, and i foot 9 inches wide ; the stones forming
sides and roof, 3 inches thick and 6 inches long, are very rough.

At 32 feet the passage was broken in at the sides ; after securing this, it
was found to continue and to be filled with hard silt. At 57 feet a very
massive wall of bevelled stones running north and south, and 65 feet from
the city wall, was reached — -stones well squared and somewhat similar to
those found at the Jews' Wailing Place : the courses were 3 feet 7 inches in
height. A gallery was commenced along the wall to the north ; the second
stone found was not bevelled, though well squared and dressed. At iS feet
from the aqueduct, the gallery being driven horizontally, the rock was
struck, and the lowest course of the wall took a turn about 30 degrees
north-east, while the second course continued straight on to north ; the wall
now was composed of small stones, and after continuing it for 8 feet
farther, the gallery was tamped up by earth taken from a new gallery
driven along the wall to south.

This gallery was continued to the south along the bevelled stones of the
wall ; at 19 feet it reached the corner stone, the wall now runnine to
west. The stones here are very well dressed, but have a curious
cracked appearance, as if they had been subjected to great heat, and
they broke off in large chips when struck accidentally. The wall was
followed to west, and at 13 feet 6 inches the gallery came upon what
appeared to be part of a rough wall running to the south, of stones
about I foot 6 inches high and 2 feet long. The main wall still went
on to the west, but was now composed of very rough irregular stones of
large size ; the gallery was continued for 46 feet from the angle, when
the wall suddenly ended, and after being continued for 7 feet farther, the
gallery was stopped, and another gallery driven to south-west from the
point (47 feet from the angle) where the main wall had ended.

Continuing gallery to south-west, progress was impeded by meetlno-
with a concrete tloor composed of black cement and small stones ; the
point where this floor was met with is 29 feet from where the gallery
branched. At 38 feet the miners came close on the point below the

JERUSALEM. 141

north-east angle of the Haram wall, and broke into a gallery from
H 12. This was done for the purpose of tamping up H 9 with the
soil from // 12, to avoid taking it along the rough aqueduct, which had
been an awkward business.

It does not appear that the stones of the massive wall in No. 11 are
in situ ; they differ in height, and sometimes a square stone is inter-
polated : it is probable that this wall was built after the aqueduct had
ceased to be of use, as we find it cut in two by the wall ; that is to say, if
we are to suppose it to be one and the same with that found in Shaft
H 10. Plate XVII.

General Remarks on the North-East Angle.

The wall of the tower above Course P is similar in many respects
to that at the Jews' Wailing Place, but the roughly faced wall below the
Course P and to the south of the tower is not similar to the roughly
faced portion at the south-west angle of the Sanctuary, although it
would be difficult to specify exactly how it differs. The stone does not
seem so hard and compact as that at the south-east angle, and the
chisel-working is not so carefully done. The characters in red paint
are pronounced to be Phoenician. The excavations here showed that
there was a deep valley to the north of the Temple, as described by
F. Josephus. (Ant. xiv. iv., 2. Bel. i. vii,, 3.)

It appears probable that when the north-east angle was built, the
earth had already accumulated in the valley, the surface being about the
line of Course P.

It would be purely a matter of speculation entering into any dis-
cussion as to dates when the wall was built and when the several altera-
tions took place.

The Golden Gate.

The construction of the Golden Gate is still a vexed question ; it is
possibly a reconstruction of comparatively late date, but it stands on the
ancient foundations of a gateway, which in some measure correspond
with those of the Triple Gate. The level of the sill is 2,396, while that
of the Triple Gate is 2,380.

142 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The whole space in front of ihe east wall of the Sanctuary is
occupied by Moslem tombs, and no excavations could be made near
the wall except at considerable depth beneath the surface by means of
galleries ; and on account of the slope of the ground these galleries had
to be stepped up through the loose shingle — a very hazardous and
dangerous operation.

Il Jjcing dcsirablr, ihcn, lo examine the wall al the Golden Gate,
the only method was lo sink a shaft at some distance off and drive a
gallery up, so as to be altogether out of the way of the cemetery. (See
Plates II. and VI.)

The nearest convenient point was found to be i.)3 feet from the south
end of the gate, and in a line perpendicular to its front, in a piece of
ground through which a shaft was sunk in 1867.

This point was found to be 55 feet 6 inches below the level of the
ground outside the gate. The shaft was commenced 25th January, 1869,
and sunk down 25 feet 6 inches, giving a total difference of level between
the ground outside the gate and the bottom of the shaft of 81 feet.
(See Plate XI.)

Soil.

First 8 feet, loam mixed with small shingle ; from 8 feet to 13 feet
in depth the shaft passed through stone packing 9 inches to 12 inches
cube; from 13 feet to 18 feet good solid dark brown loam ; from x8 feet
to 22 feet 6 inches, stone packing again; 22 feet 6 inches to 26 feet
9 inches, loam mixed with stones.

A gallery was then driven in to the west, and at 10 feet 3 inches the
rock was struck, rising about one in four to the west ; the gallery then
rose gently with the rock until at iS feet 6 inches a tank or rock-cut
tomb was crossed. The examination of this was reserved, and the
gallery continued, until at 27 feet the rock was found to present a cut
scarp of 3 feet 9 inches height, on the south side, running in a north-
westerly direction, the natural surface of the rock falling to the north.
The scarped rock was followed for over 10 feet, when it suddenly took a
turn to the north, and it was necessary to cross over it. On the top oi
the scarp a rough masonry wall was found, which was broken through.
At this point, ■%,•] feet from the shaft, the total rise in the gallery was 8 feet.

JERUSALEM.

143

The rock is inisscr, and on the scarp, about 2 feet 10 inches from the
bottom, was found a hole cut for passing a rope through, similar to those
found in the cavern south of the Triple Gate. This ring or hole was
apparently for tying up animals to.

The gallery was now continued on a gradual rise through a loose and
dangerous accumulation of stones. At 47 feet the rock was found to
rise suddenly to a height of 4 feet, and at 53 feet another rough masonry

wall was encountered and broken through. At 68 feet a portion of the
shaft of a column (3 feet in diameter) was met with, placed erect in
the dt'bris, and about 3 feet above the rock. (See woodcut.) On
the bottom of this shaft of column are what appear to be masons'
marks.

From this point forward the work became very dangerous, the gallery
being driven through a mass of loose boulders alternating with layers of
shingle, which on being set in motion ran like water.

144 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

At 85 feet fnim the shaft, the gallery had ascended 25 feet 6 inches.
The debris now began to run into the gallery, forming a cavity above ;
and to prevent further falls fifty old baskets were stuffed in, and a
quantity of old timber. After a considerable amount of labour the
gallery was continued, and at 97 feet (i.e., 46 feet from the Sanctuary
wall) a massive masonry wall was reached, running north and
south.

An attempt was made to break through this wall, but after getting in
5 feet it was abandoned ; the stones being of large size, it was also found
not practicable to get over the wall, as it appeared to continue up to a
considerable height. A gallery was then driven south along the wall for
14 feet, but there was no appearance of any break. The ddbris pierced
through was of the loosest description, and the gallery had become in a
highly dangerous state. It was therefore tamped up, all the frames for
about 30 feet being left in.

The tamping up was continued as far as the hanging column, and at
the same time a branch gallery was driven to the north from a point
immediately east of the column. At 14 feet it was turned in to the
west. (See Plate IV.) It was found that there were here about 3 feet
of solid earth between the dSris and the rock, and by very careful
management the gallery was driven on for 34 feet from the turn. At
this point the massive wall was again met with, running in a north-
westerly direction ; the gallery followed along it, but the layer of solid
earth gradually diminished in thickness, until on the 2Sth April, when
55 feet from the turn, the shingle suddenly came in with a rush, quickly
filling up 6 feet of the gallery, and burying some of the tools. An
attempt to remove this shingle was of no avail ; when touched it only
ran farther into the gallery, and, very reluctantly, the work was
abandoned.

Although the object at this point was not attained, some very in-
teresting results were arrived at.

1. It was now nearly certain that at the Golden Gate the Sanctuary
wall e.xtended below the present surface outside, to a depth of from
30 feet to 40 feet. (See Plates VI. and XI.)

2. It appeared that the rock had an inclination to the north near the
Golden Gate.

JERUSALEM. 145

3. The massive wall where first encountered was about 46 feet in
front of the Golden Gate. It appears from thence to run to north and
gradually turns in to west, apparently following the contour of the
ground.

This wall is composed of large quarry-dressed blocks of misscc, so far
similar to the lower course seen in the Sanctuary wall near the Golden
Gate, that the roughly dressed faces of the stones project about 6 inches
beyond the marginal drafts, which are very rough. The stones appeared
to be in courses 2 feet 6 inches in height, and over 5 feet in length.
On trying to break through the wall a hole was made 5 feet 6 inches
deep, without any signs of the stones terminating. The horizontal joints
are not close, but are about 12 inches apart, and filled in with stones
6 inches cube, packed in a very curious cement, which had the appear-
ance of an ar8:illaceous stone with a conchoidal fracture. The fellahin
pronounced it to be formed of lime, oil, and the virgin red earth, and
stated that such is used at the present day in the formation of cisterns.
Specimens of this cement were sent home.

It appears probable that the massive wall met with may continue up
to the present surface, as immediately above it in the road are some
large roughly drafted stones lying in the same line.

To the south from the Golden Gate to the postern, a distance of
51 feet, there are three courses of large stones, with marginal drafts
3 inches to 6 inches wide, with rough projecting faces.

The postern itself appears to be of very recent date, but possibly
marks the site of Merj ed Din's gate al Burak.

Southward of this postern there are no drafted stones visible above
ground until reaching Mahomet's Pillar, when the lowest courses visible
are again found with marginal drafts and projecting faces similar to those
near the Golden Gate, and these stones extend to a break in the wall
105 feet 6 inches from the south-east angle.

An excavation was commenced 300 feet south of the Golden Gate,
east of the cemetery, but when 60 feet from the Sanctuary wall the
shingle became too loose to work in, and the gallery was abandoned.
At the south-east angle the wall was seen for a distance of 161 feet on
the south side, but from that point to the Golden Gate it has nowhere
been seen below the surface. Yet the inference is that it is composed of

146 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

the same marginal drafted stones with rough projecting faces as arc met
with in other parts of the east wall. At the south-east angle, for
1 08 feet on east side, the stones are similar to those above Course P at
the Tower of Antonia and at the Wailing Place.

Galleries were driven in search of any pier in connection with the
supposed arch near south-east angle.

The northern end of the skewback is just where the break occurs in
the wall at 108 feet from the south-cast angle. A gallery was driven
close to the rock, so as to encounter the pier if it still existed, but nothing
was found as far as 50 feet from the Sanctuary wall, and the span of the
arch, as calculated, should not be more than 27 feet. A gallery was
driven from this last to south for 14 feet at 30 feet from the Sanctuary
wall, and then small galleries for about 10 feet east and west, but no
signs of the supposed pier were found.

All the stones in the Sanctuary wall, from 108 feet from south-cast
angle to 161 feet, were found to have projecting faces and marginal
drafts. (See Plate XIX.)

The angle of the corner-stone of the base course is 92 degrees
35 minutes, and that of the corner-stone on the surface is 92 degrees
5 minutes, while the general direction of the east wall with south wall,
as determined by the Survey, is 92 degrees 50 minutes. The eastern
wall is somewhat irregular, the first 120 feet only being in a straight line;
beyond this are several bulges, but it is probable that below the surface
the first 260 feet of wall are in a straight line. At this point there is a
small postern on about the same level as the Single Gate on south side.
From this postern the wall takes a slight bend to north-east, so that at
650 feet from south-east angle it is about 8 feet to east of a line in pro-
duction of first 260 feet.

SouTii-E.vsT Angle. — Masonry Above Ground.

At the south-east angle there are fourteen courses of drafted stones
above the surface, giving a height of about 54 feet. Above this is later
work for about 23 feet 6 inches, giving a total height above ground of
']'] feet 6 inches. Tlie upper masonry is much out of repair.

Counting from the surface, there are si.\ courses, averaging in height

JERUSALEM. 147

3 feet 8 inches, then \h^ great course, 6 feet in height, and then again seven
courses of about an average of 3 feet 8 inches in height. The bed of the
great course is on a level with the floor of the vaults known as Solomon's
Stables, which will be described while speaking of the south wall. The
courses are set back, each behind that below, from i to f inch. The
stones from the inalaki are much worn, while those of the viissa; beds are
in an excellent state of preservation.

On some of the stones are projecting shoulders or tenons, which may
have been used in bringing the stones from the quarries and in setting
them. Similar projections are to be found in the wall of the Haram at
Hebron, and also in the masonry of the citadel. At about 74 feet from
the angle northward the east wall sets back about 3 inches. This is done
by notching out the stones. It is supposed by some to mark the
northern limit of a tower ; but there is nothing to show there was any
tower here.

The stones run on beyond this point as one wall. At 105 feet
6 inches from the corner there is a cut joint in the wall, the drafted stones
with smooth faces terminate, and those with rough projecting faces com-
mence (described page 125). A similar break is found immediately below,
near the rock, and therefore it is probable that it is continuous throughout.
Although there is thus a distinct break in the wall at this point, it does not
follow that the old east wall from the south-east angle proceeds no further
north ; it may recede a few feet and then be continued within the rough-faced
wall. Between the set back at 74 feet, and the break at 105 feet 6 inches,
at a level of 2,372, are two stones which form the springing of an arch,
extending for 18 feet. These stones appear to be in situ, and they would
appear to have formed a portion of an arch to the east, but this is not
probable. Immediately above this springing there is a passage in the
wall, filled up, which appears to be of later date than the drafted stones.
The course below the springing projects 18 inches, as it appears to do
under Robinson's arch. A search for traces of the pier was made below
ground without result. (See preceding page.)

19-

148 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

South-east Angle. — Masonry Below the Surface.

The masonry below the surface was examined by several shafts and
galleries. There are twenty-one courses of drafted stones below the
surface (from Af to g), making a height of 80 feet 5 inches, or 79 iccr.
3 inches to the rock in which the bottom course is bedded. The five
lower courses, having never been exposed to view, are in a most excellent
state of preservation, as perfect as if they had been recently cut. They
are well dressed, and with the exception of the size of the drafts, differ in
no wise from the more perfect stones at the W'ailing Place. The mar-
ginal drafts and a space about 2 inches round the projecting surfjicc, have
been picked over with an eight-toothed adze, about eight teeth to the
inch ; within this a ' point,' or single pointed chisel, has been used.
With the exception of two courses, IV and A', all twenty-one were seen at
one point or another, and they appear similar in every respect to those at
the Wailing Place. The heights of the courses differ at different
points.

On the south wall the stones set back about i inch in each course ; on
the east wall they set back from 3 to 4 inches, and in one case 6 inches.
It will be necessary to examine each course separately.

Course g. — The lowest or foundation course,^, is 3 feet 8 inches high ;
it is partially sunk in \.\\v. rock at the angle, but to the north it was found
to be let entirely into the rock, until at 41 feet it ceased, the rock here
rising abruptly, and the second course being let into it. There are drafts
on the upper portions of this course. The course rests on the hard
mczzeh, the rock cut away for the stones being soft and decayed.

Course/. — The second course,/] is 4 feet 3^ inches in height, and
e.xtends to the north the same distance as the lower course, where the
rock rises abruptly. On the south side it extends to the west 8 feet
3J, inches, and is bedded in the rock, and completely covered at its western
end. The corner stone has a i inch draft at the top, ordinary drafts at
the bottom and sides ; it is very roughly dressed within the draft. The
second, third, and fourth following stones to the north are very peculiar
in appearance : the second stone has an 8i inch draft at top, while the
lower draft is only i^- inches ; it has ordinary drafts at the sides ; within

JERUSALEM. i49

the drafts the surface is well dressed, and there are incised letters. The
third stone has no upper draft, while the lower draft is i6f; inches wide.
The side drafts are of ordinary width ; the surface within the drafts is
well dressed, and there are red paint marks thereon. The fourth stone
has an upper draft of i2i inches, but no lower draft; the side drafts
are as usual, and the surface within the drafts is well dressed. The
remaining stones of this course (5, 6, 7) have drafts of from 2 to i\ inches
in width.

Course c. — The third course is 4 feet 2\ inches high, and extends
about 64 feet to north ; but has not been examined for more than 41 feet.
It is set back 4I inches on the east side, and \\ inches on the south side.
It extends about 14 feet along the south side to west, where it is let into
the abruptly rising rock. The corner stone has no draft at top, and a
4^ inch draft at bottom. The second stone is cut in a very careful
manner. The drafts in this course are of the ordinary type ; those on
the upper side, except near the corner, were not seen.

Course d. — The fourth course is 3 feet 75 inches high ; it extends
about 76 feet to north, where it is let into the rock ; to the west it
extends 18 feet, where it is let into the rock. It is set back 23 inches on
east side, and \\ inches on south side. The corner stone has a shallow
9 inch draft on top, and is 1 7 feet 4 inches long on east side. The nine
following stones have drafts which vary from 3^ to 8 inches at top ; the
side drafts are of ordinary width, and the bottom drafts were not seen.
The last stone let into the rock was not seen.

Course c. — The fifth, course is 3 feet 8 inches in height ; it extends
about 80 feet to the north, where it is let into the rock, and 19 feet
5 inches to west, where it is let into the rock. It is set back 4^ inches on
the east side, and i inch on the south side. The corner stone is 14 feet
4f inches long on the south side, by 6 feet 6 inches on the east side ; it is
similar in every respect to the best specimens of stones found at the south-
east angle above the surface.

The drafts vary considerably ; they are generally about 2\ to 5^
inches on the lower side, and from 3 to 6 inches on the upper side ;
the upper drafts were not seen beyond 45 feet from the angle. The third
and eighth stones are very roughly dressed within the drafts. From the
fact of the red paint marks being found on so many of these stones,

ISO TIIR SUR VE V OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

and from two of these being roughly faced, it is apparent that this portion
of the wall was not exposed to view. The thirteenth stone at 54 feet
from the corner has no draft ; it is only 18 inches wide. The face of the
eleventh stone, on which there are some incised characters, projects
about J- inch too much, and has been worked a second time over about
half its surface. y\t 71 feet the set-off on Course d changes from 2 to
4.1 inches. The course reaches the rock at 76 feet to the north.

Course b. — The sixth course is 3 feet 6 inches in height ; it extends to
west on south side for 20 feet (in one long stone), and its western end
is let into the rock, which covers its upper edge for 18 inches. The
eastern side was not seen.

Course a. — The seventh course is 4 feet in height. It was not seen
at the south-east angle, but two stones were uncovered in the shaft sunk
to the west of the Ophel wall. They rest on the rock, and have no
draft.

Course Z. — The eighth course is, 4 feet 6 inches high. One stone was
uncovered in the shaft to west of the Ophel wall. It has a 6-inch draft
at top and bottom, and the face projects 9 inches. This course sets back
I \ inches.

Course V. — The ?/////// course is 4 feet high. Two stones were
partially seen in the shaft west of the Ophel wall. It has ordinary
drafts, and the faces of the stones are well dressed. The upper portion
of this course is also seen in the gallery that runs along the tenth
course (A'). At 64 feet 3 inches north of the south-cast angle, this course is
reduced 6 inches in height to allow of the tenth course setting into it.
At 108 feet from the south-east angle this course terminates, and
courses at a different level, with rough projecting faces, continue the wall.

Course X. — The tcuth course, 3 feet 8 inches high, runs north for loS
feet from the south-east angle, where there is a straight joint for at least
three courses, JF, X, and V, and there is the probability that this break or
straight joint continues to the surface, there being a similar break in the
wall immediately above. During the east wind a strong gush of air came
through this break in Course V into the gallery, but not so in the west
wind ; this is probably owing to the east wind pressing against the break
in east wall above, and is strong evidence that this break continues
throughout.

JERUSALEM.

151

The tenth course was seen from 32 feet north from the south-east angle,
to 108 feet. The stones have the ordinary marginal drafts. The first
stone met with has a face dressed with the pick. At 64 feet 3 inches from
the south-east angle the height of the course increases from 3 feet 8 inches
to 4 feet 2 inches, by being let down into the Course Y below 6 inches.
This continues up to loS feet from the south-east angle, where the straight
joint in the wall occurs. At 70 feet from the corner there is a stone with
a face which is not well dressed, and the next stone to it has a projecting
face. At 89 feet 9 inches there is a break of some kind, but it may only
be caused by unskilful workmanship. The set-off to the south of this
point is 65 inches, but beyond it the whole Course X sets back 9<V inches
on l\ and /^/^^projects 2 inches over^Y. Beyond the break at 108 feet, the
bed course with rough projecting faces is i foot 10 inches above the bed
of X for 25 feet 8 inches ; beyond this point the course rises again 4 inches,
and continues 25 feet 7 inches, when the next stone falls 10 inches. The
northern course of this stone touches the rock at 161 feet 10 inches from
the south-east angle.

The Characters on the Stones.

The characters found on Courses c, d, e, and f, at the south-east angle,
are cither painted or cut on the stones. The incised characters are cut

STONE C OF SECOND COURSE OF EASTERN WALL.

with a tool to a depth of {^ inch. The painted characters, in some instances
12 inches high, appear to have been put on with a brush. The paint used

152 THE SURVEY OF UESTEKN PALESTINE.

is red, probably vermilion, and easily rubbed off with a wet finger. There
arc a few red splashes here and there, as if the paint had dropped from the
brush. The general impression from an inspection of the characters is

INCISED CHARACTERS.

that they arc the quarry marks, and were painted on before the stones
were laid in their places. The principal characters are given full size in
Plates XXI. to XXIII.

On some of the stones there are no characters visible ; on others, the
whole of the surface within the draft is occupied by characters.

In the second course, the second stone has two incised characters, the
third stone is covered with painting. (See Plates XVIII., XIX., XXII.
and XXIII.

In the third course {e), the first stone has one character, the third,
fourth, and fifth have a few faint red paint marks on them, and the sixth
stone has an incised mark.

In the fourth course no marks were seen.

In the fifth course, nearly every stone has a red paint mark. On the
first there arc two on the south side, in seven instances there are single
paint marks at the left-hand top corner.

These graphiti were examined by the late ]\Ir. Emanuel Dcutsch,
and the conclusions he came to were as follows : —

1 . The signs cut or painted were on the stones when they were first
laid in their present position.

2. They do not represent any inscription.

3. They are Phoenician. I consider them to be partly letters,
partly numerals, and partly special masons' or quarry signs. Some of
them were recognisable at once as well-known Phcenician characters ;
others hitherto unknown in Phoenician epigraphy I had the rare satisfac-
tion of being able to identify on undoubted Phoenician structures in Syria.

JERUSALEM.

153

Generat, Notes. — Soutii-East An'gle.

A shaft was sunk (commenced 14th November, 1868) at a distance of
about 20 feet south-east of the south-cast angle. Stone chipping's
were met with, alternating with layers of fat earth, and in some
instances rough stones a foot cube. At 53 feet a gallery was driven
in to Sanctuary wall on level of bed of Course c (2,293 feet), passing
through two rough masonry walls, one running north and south,

GALLERY AT SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF SANCTUARY.

the other cast and west. In the gallery exposing Course c a
gallery was driven to the east for about 8 feet from the south-east
angle, and it was ascertained that the rock slopes away at an angle of
I in 9. Subsequently it was driven for 30 feet, and found to be at an
angle of 31°. The upper surface of the rock, for a depth of 2 to 3 feet,
is very soft and decayed ; beneath this is the hard uiczzcJi, on which the
base course of the wall is built.

154 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

At 3 feet to the cast of the angle a hole was found scooped out of the
rock, I foot diameter and i foot deep. On clearing the earth out, a little
earthenware jar was found, standing upright.

At 4 feet nDrili of the angle, close to the wall, the rock is cut away in
the form of a horseshoe or semicircle, 2 feet wide and 2 feet 8 inches deep.
Dark mould was found in this.

Upon the soft rock there rests an accumulation of from 8 to lo feet of
fat mould abounding in potsherds. This mould does not lie close up

against the Sanctuary wall, but is 12 inches away from it at top, and
gradually closes in to it. Between it and the wall is a wedge of stone-
chippings.

The fat mould slopes to the east at an angle of i in 4. It is quite
evident that when this wall was built, this 10 feet of mould and pottery,
and the soft rock also, was cut through, for the purpose of laying the
foundation-stones on solid rock. The pottery found in the mould is
broken up into fragments, and no shapes can be recognised. A long
rusty nail was, however, found.

The chippings between the wall and the fat mould are in many cases
rounded, and unlike what would result from stone-dressing, having more
the appearance of backing used in the walls at the present day in Palestine.
It is apparent that the stones were finished at the quarries, and not when
in the wall.

Above the mould is a layer of stone-chippings, which slope at an angle

JERUSALEM. iSS

of I in 3 to the east. At one point, near the corner, tliey slope towards
the Sanctuary instead of away from it, but this is merely local. At this
point the chippings are mixed up with some black stuff like decomposed
or charred wood.

The rock rises i8 feet in 76 feet to north from the south-east angle, and
again 17 feet in another 85 feet, giving a total of 35 feet in 161 feet.
To the west it rises very rapidly, 18 feet in 20 feet; then there is a
level space ; and it rises steeply to the Great Passage under the Single
Gate. To the east of the corner it is nearly level for S or 10 feet ; it then
falls rapidly, at about 30°, to the Kedron valley.

The pottery and relics found about the south-east angle consisted of

1. A small jar found in a hole cut in the rock, standing upright as
though it had been purposely placed there. Dr. Birch considers this jar
may possibly be of the fourth or fifth century B.C., and to be of Egyptian
ware in shape.

2. Fragments of pottery and fat-lamps ; these are considered by
Mr. Franks 'to be of late date,' not earlier than the second century l.c,
but it was noticed during the excavations that these fat-lamps were
always found in the red earth in all quarters of the city, and it is probable
that they were the earliest type of lamp used in Jerusalem.

3. A long rusty iron nail, some charred wood, and a layer of broken
pottery resting on the red earth. Among the pottery were found several
jar-handles, some of which had well-definecl figures impressed on them,
resembling in some degree a bird, but believed to represent a winged
sun or disc, possibly the emblem of the Sun God.

There are Phcenician characters, similar in shape to those of the
Moabite stone, on each handle, above and below the wings, and in two
instances they have been read by Dr. Birch as follows : —

LeMeLeK ZePHa

To or of King Zepha.

LeK SHaT

King Shat.

]\I. Ganneau, however, renders these incriptions as —

MoLoCH ZaPH.
LoCH SHaT,

20 — 2

IS6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

and believes them to be names of men, partly composed of the name of
the God Moloch, like Hannibal.

Another handle found in ilic same place bears as a potter's mark
'a cross within a semicircular mark.'

While such different views can e.xist as to the meaning of these

characters it is idle to speculate as to their age, or as to the light they
may shed upon the age of the south-east angle.

G.XLLERIES IN WESTERN SiDE OF KedRON VaLLEY CELOW THE

SouTii-E.\ST Angle.

Three separate attempts were made in 1867 to find the rock at an
intermediate point between the south-east angle and Kedron valley. A
gallery, a staircase gallery, and a perpendicular shaft were tried in turn,
but each failed after working a few feet into the rubbish, which lies at an
angle of 30°, consisting of stone-chippings, without a particle of earth,
being in character almost a fluid.

It was apparent that if the rubbish on the eastern side of the Sanctuary
existed to any great extent, it would cover the true Kedron valley for
some distance : and it was found on excavation that the true bed of the
Kedron is 240 feet to the west of, and 38 feet below, the present bed,
and that water flows through it during the rainy season.

A shaft was sunk 305 feet due east of the south-east angle. At a
depth of 20 feet the rock was found falling to the west ; and at 65 feet,
or at 240 feet from the Sanctuary wall, the true bed of the Kedron
was found at level 2,171 feet.

JERUSALEM.

157

A masonry wall 5 feet thick was found on the west side of the true bed.
For the first 60 feet from the Kedron bed there is a gentle ascent,
west ; and here some roughly rounded flints (pot-boilers ?) and whorls
were found on the rock. The rock now rises rapidly, west, and loose
shingle was encountered, which, when it got in motion, carried all before

III \iS>"

ir^~y°^7^ ^

it to the bottom of the gallery. At 160 feet from the entrance the air
became very impure, but on going a little further a rushing noise was
heard, which proved to be a stream of pure air circulating through some
rift in the soil. Masonry walls were now encountered, apparently for
supporting terraces along the Kedron valley.

The rock now rose so rapidly (at 30") that further advance was im-
possible, and the v/ork was abandoned at 130 feet from the Sanctuary
wall. (See Plate X.).

The Opiiel Wall at the South-East Angle of Sanxtuary.

The wall of Ophel, abutting on the south wall of the Sanctuary at the
south-east angle, was probably about 12 feet 6 inches wide at the top, and
is about 15 feet wide at the bottom. Its faces are perpendicular. At
the south-east angle it is found at 4 feet from the surface (level 2,352 feet),
and it is here 18 inches in advance of the Sanctuary wall. At the level of
2,324 it Is flush with the Sanctuary wall, and at its foot it is probably
about 2 feet 6 inches behind it, but this has not been ascertained.

It was examined to a depth of 30 feet on the western side, close to the
south-east angle. The top course is drafted, and Is 3 feet 8 inches In

I S8 THE SUR VE Y OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

height, ;uk1 serves as a co[)Ing. For the next 26 feet the stones are
squared and well dressed, in courses averaging i foot 9 inches in height ;
they arc in some instances of malaki, and in others of mezzch. Below
30 feet, at a level of 2,322 feet, there is a set-off of 8 inches, and the wall
is built of rubble from its foundations.

It is probable that when this wall was built the old Sanctuary wall had
been in existence many years, and the dddris had filled up the valley at
this i)oint to ;■. height of 44 feet. This is apparent from the rough rubble-
work up to a height of 44 feet from the rock, and from the fact that the
foundations of the wall are not on the rock, but on the hard layer of clay
or fat earth resting on the rock about level with Course Z.

South Wall of the Sanctuary. — Glnkral Aspect.

The south wall is 922 feet in length on the level of the Noble Sanctuary,
and is broken into three nearly equal sections by the Double and Triple
Gates. The former is 330 feet from the south-west angle ; the older
portion of the latter is 300 feet from the south-east angle.

The present surface of the ground runs nearly at a level (2,380 feet)
from the south-west angle to the sill of the Triple Gate ; it then shelves
down 22 feet to the south-east angle. The natural features of the rock on
which the south wall is built present a very different appearance, being
covered up at the south-east angle and in the valley at 90 feet from
the south-west angle, with accumulation of rubbish to a depth of about
80 feet, and cropping up to the surface at the Triple Gate. The highest
point of the rock at the Triple Gate, about 2 feet below the sill, is
2,378 feet, from whence it falls eastward about 100 feet in 300 feet, to
the south-east angle, where the level is 2,280 feet. It continues with a
fall of 109 feet in 240 feet to the true bed of the Kedron valley (2,171
feet), which is thus 209 feet below the sill of the Triple Gate. The
rubbish has accumulated in the Kedron valley to a depth of ico feet,
covering over the true bed.

Towards the west of the Triple Gate, to a point 90 feet from the
south-west angle, in a distance of about 500 feet, the rock falls about 90 feet
to the bed of the Tyropoeon valley (2,290 feet), and from this point to the

JERUSALEM. 159

south-west angle there is a rise of about 35 feet in 90 feet. At the
Double Gate the rock is probably about 36 feet below the sill. The
south wall was examined at nine separate points, and there is no doubt
that it is one continuous wall, and that the courses of stone are drafted
from the rock, and are in situ ; but portions were built at different epochs,
the portion at the south-west angle as far as the Double Gate appearing
less ancient than the remainder. It is built up to Course N, a height of
55 feet from the valley bed, with drafted stones with rough projecting faces,
and at this level there is the indication of a pavement stretching from the
south-west angle to the Double Gate, the sill of which is 36 feet above
the rock.

These roughly faced stones run out under the Double Gate. In the
remainder of the wall the faces of the stones arc well worked from the
foundation course. It has been suggested by Colonel Wilson that there
may be a break in the wall at the Single Gate at about 108 feet from the
south-east angle.

As the rock is found at the sill of the Triple Gate, it follows that
there is no course running through from end to end below that level.
The first course has its bed on a level with the sill of the Triple Gate ;
it is nearly double the height of the other courses in the Sanctuary wall,
being from 5 feet 10 inches to 6 feet in height.

The portion of the Sanctuary wall between the south-east angle and
the Double Gate at present lies wholly outside the city wall. It has
one distinguishing feature, viz., the Great Course, of drafted stones,
which extends with some lacnna; from the south-east ande to the
Double Gate. There are no drafted stones to be found above the Great
Course except at the south-east angle. Here there are seven courses,
which break down rapidly to the west. The ancient masonry at the
angle after the destruction of Herod's Temple thus rose like a turret
before the more modern ashlar was built up.

This is probably the so-called ' Pinnacle of the Temple ' spoken of by
the Bordeaux Pilgrim and others.

The remainder of the wall above the Great Course is composed of
masonry of various ages.

.i6o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

'riiK Great Course (See Plates XX. and XXIV.).

The average height of drafted stones in the Sanctuary wall is from

3 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 9 inches ; the Great Course measures from 5 feet
10 inches to 6 feet in height. It is unbroken between the Double and
Triple Gates ; from thence to the Single Gate there is one stone in situ,
and it is found again for 70 feet at the south-east angle; it extends
24 feet from the south-east angle on east side. Its bed is on a level with
the sill of the Triple Gate and the floor of Solomon's Stables, and is
about I foot above the highest part of the rock where cut by the south
front at the Triple Gate ; consequently it is the first course on this front
that can run uninterruptedly from east to west. It extends for 600 feet
from the south-east angle, but is not to be found to the west of the
Double Gate. At the south-cast angle the corner stone of this course
weighs over one hundred tons, and though not the longest, is the heaviest
stone visible in the Sanctuary wall.

The bed of this course falls about 2 feet from the Triple Gate to
the south-east angle ; this may have been purposely arranged on
account of the peculiar nature of the ground, to avoid offending the
eye, the rock having a fall in this distance of 90 feet from west to
east.

Were the wall of one construction, the course should be found running
throujrh to south-west ansfle, but no sIltus of it could be found west of the
Double Gate. At the two shafts near the Double Gate, the stones at
the level of this course are so worn that it is uncertain whether they
were drafted, and they consequently throw no light on the subject ; but
at the south-west angle and in the two shafts to east of it, the drafted
stones are found at a higher level than the Great Course, and yet there
are no signs of the Great Course itself. At the south-west angle itself
there is a stone (Course D) 38 feet 9 inches long, whose bed is about

4 feet above the bed of the Great Course, but its height is little more
than half, from 3 feet 3 inches to 3 feet 6 inches, and it is not of so fine
a description of masonry. (Plate XXVIII.)

On the west side of the Triple Gate the stone of the Great Course
has a moulding.

JERUSALEM. i6i

Masonry above the Surface eelow the Great Course.

Below the Great Course all the stones are drafted similar to those at
the Wailing Place. Six of these courses are to be seen at the south-east
angle. Those of the softer malaki beds are very much worn, while
those of hard viezzeh are beautifully preserved.

There are thus at the south-east angle fourteen courses of drafted
stone visible, which, from the upward slope of the ground and the breaking
down of the stones from above, gradually lessen in number until at the
Single Gate, 105 feet from the south-east angle, only the Great Course is
visible.

The Single Gate (Plates XX. and XXIV.).

This is a closed entrance with pointed arch of modern construction,
leading to Solomon's Stables. Its sill is about 3 feet 9 inches below the
level of the floor of the vaults. It is situated about 105 feet to west of
south-east angle.

Beneath the surface, from the south-east angle, which has been des-
cribed (page 153), the masonry of the wall was examined for 3 courses,
in search of any opening under the large aisle of Solomon's Stables.

The Great Passage.

This was discovered October iS, 1867, at a distance of loS feet from
the south-east angle, and immediately beneath the Single Gate. The top
of this passage is on level (2,360) with the bed of course K, and is about
19 feet below the floor of Solomon Stables, or 60 feet below the level of
the Sanctuary. It is 69 feet long, 3 feet wide, and is at right angles to
the south wall.

It was nearly full of rubbish ; but its height is probably from 6 feet at
the northern end to 14 feet at the entrance. It lies under one of the aisles
of Solomon's Stables. At the entrance the floor appears to be about 5
feet above the rock, and at the northern end the rock, which rises in that
direction, is probably the floor.

i62 THE SURVEY OF UESTERN PALESTINE.

There are two entrances, one over on the other, with a course of stone {M)
between ; they arc 2 feet wide. The upper opening is the height of the
course L ; the lower opening is cut out of courses N and O, and is about
6 feet high. At 7 feet within the entrance there are indications of there
having been a metal gate. A check 10 inches square, and of the same
depth, is cut in one of the roof stones, and there is the mark of abrasion on
one of the side stones, as though a metal gate has swung against it.

On both sides the stones are of large size : one of them is 1 5 feet long;
they are nearly all drafted, and are beautifully worked, but some of them
are only hammer dressed. The roof is made of larger marginal drafted
stones, laid horizontally on the side walls. At a distance of 69 feet the
roof stones disappear, and the passage probably leads into a chamber ; it
is here closed with broken stones and rubbish, and appear to have been
filled up before the piers of the stables were built. On the east side there
is a passage, blocked up. This was cleared out for 9 feet, but had to be
abandoned for fear of interferin» with the substructure of the vaults above.
A shaft leading upwards was here found. The upper course is 3 feet in
height, and at the bottom, on each side, are the remains of a small aque-
duct, jutting out from the wall, made of dark cement.

There is a channel sunk in the floor, about 1 2 Inches wide and deep.

It has been suggested that the east side of this passage may possibly
have been the west side of an outlying tower, but it is to be remarked that
the west side of this passage is quite as substantial and well built as the
east side. There is also no reason for supposing that any straight joint
occurs in the Sanctuary wall at this passage.

It is useless at present to speculate on the subject in a permanent
record ; all that we know for certain is that the passage was for the exit
of some liquid — whether for water, sewage, or for the flow from the altar
cannot be determined.

In order to reach this passage, the existence of which was surmised, a
shaft was commenced 37 feet south of the gate, and at 22 feet a slab was
found drafted on its under face ; it is supposed to have covered a passage
from the Great Passa<^e. This shaft had to be abandoned on account of
the looseness of the soil.

A shaft was then sunk at 14 feet from the Single Gate; rock was
found at 34 feet 6 inches ; the surface rugged.

JERUSALEM. 163

For the first 20 feet there were loose stones and rubbish, then for
10 feet the soil was very firm, of a dark-brown colour. Fragments of
dressed stones of malaki and viezzeh, pieces of marble, and rough stones
were found.

The shaft was filled up for 1 1 feet, and a gallery driven northwards,
when the Great Passage was discovered.

There was great danger to the workmen in getting to this passage, on
account of the loose character of the earth and rubbish; consequently
measurement could not easily be taken at the entrance, though the wall
could be seen. There was no appearance either above or below of any
straight join in the east wall, but there was the appearance of the wall
being continuous.

This shaft was kept open for some weeks in case the Committee of
the Palestine Exploration Fund should require any further information on
the subject.

Solomon's Stables.

These vaults are in part ancient and in part a reconstruction, probably
about the time of Justinian. The floor is somewhat above the bed of the
Great Course, so that, except at the south-east angle, the whole of the
outside wall enclosing these vaults is of later date than the epoch of
drafted stones.

The name of Solomon's Stables is of mediceval origin ; the Moslems'
call them El Masjid el Kadim (The Old Mosque). They were used as
stables by the Crusaders, and the holes in the piers by which the horses
were fastened may still be seen.

Exclusive of the double tunnel of the Triple Gate there are 1 3 rows
of vaults of a variety of spans, from 1 1 feet to 25 feet east and west ;
north and south the spans average 1 1 feet 6 inches.

The vaults sjalay out from south to north, on account oi the south-east
angle being more than a right angle.

In the south-east angle are the remains of some rough rubble work
attached to the ancient wall, and these appear to be the remains of a
massive semicircular arch.

The piers of the vaults are made out of old material, from stones

21 — 2

1 64 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

that probably at one time formed part of the south wall ; nearly all these
piers have drafted margins on one side ; in some cases on four sides, and
in others on two. These vaults extend from the south-east angle to the
Triple Gate, on the south side, and for about 170 feet to north on the east
side.

It is surmised that Solomon's Palace occupied this site ; but this is a
matter of speculation.

The Triplic Gate and Double Tunnel (Plate XXV.).

This gate is generally ascribed to the time of Justinian, and opens into
the Stables of Solomon ; it formerly was the entrance to a double tunnel
similar to that at the Double Gate. (See Plate V.)

The gateways of the Triple Gateway are each 13 feet wide, with
piers 6 feet wide. The outer arches are semicircular, but inside they
are elliptical, and have a greater span, so that the doors might fold back
llush with the piers.

At the base of the gateway are remains of the ancient entrance.

The Great Course forms a portion of the western jamb, and has a sort
of architrave moulding. On the face of this stone some modern Hebrew
characters can be traced.

The west wall of the tunnel is formed of piers 4 feet thick and 10 feet
6 inches apart, with semicircular arches thrown over, on which rests the
vault covering the passage. Between the piers rough walls of ashlar are
built, forming recesses 18 inches deep. This portion appears to be of the
same date as the Triple Gate and vaults of Solomon's Stables.

At about 192 feet from the south Sanctuary wall, the piers and arches
terminate, and the wall is built up of ashlar very irregular in size, here
and there a stone of considerable size being worked in, and on one of
these false joints are cut.

The ramp rises at about i in 12, which is the rise of the ramp
at the Double Gate. It is cut into the rock in parts to a depth of
3 feet. At the sill of the gate it is 38 feet below the level of the
Sanctuary.

At 192 feet from the south wall the original Double Tunnel ter-
minates, and it is continued with a modern arch and wall.

JERUSALEM. 165

There is nothing whatever in this wall that can give it the slightest
pretension to be considered as the east wall of the Temple Enclosure of
Herod, and the remains of engaged columns in siin assist in proving that
it was an entrance to the Sanctuary, with a ramp like that at the Double
Gate.

There are remains of engaged columns in the gateway similar to some
which have been found deep down in the excavations at the south-east
angle, among the debris. On either side in the piers of the western arch
of the Triple Gate are engaged columns similar to that in the wall. The
lowest course only remains, and they have no base mouldings.

There is a lintel, which may have formed part of the old gateway,
forming part of one of the piers in Solomon's Stables.

The width of the Double Tunnel at the Triple Gate is 39 feet, while
that at the Double Gate is 41 feet ; probably the passages may have been
17 feet wide. The piers added in recent times have reduced these
passages to about 14 feet each.

These two double tunnels in the south wall, at the Double and Triple
Gates, thus correspond to each other in their length, width, and slope
of ramp ; and though they may not have been built at the same time,
they probably both led up to the Sanctuary level. That at the Triple
Gate, on the east, is probably the most ancient. The sill of each is on
the same level.

Passages Under the Triple Gate (Plate V.).

These passages are evidently overflow canals and inspection passages
connected with the various tanks of the Sanctuary, and were arranged so
that the water might be drawn off at different levels. It is obvious that
they could not have been used for carrying off the blood, etc., from the
altar, as the tanks in connection with them are on a considerably lower
level. They may have been used for flushing the blood channel, which
may possibly be the Great Passage below the Single Gate.

The passages were blocked up to the north by walls of hard old
masonry. On removing these, they were found to communicate with
Tanks X. and XI., and probably with the Great Sea. They were cleared

1 66 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTIXE.

out for 60 feet to the north in the tunnel, Ixil the work was stopped by
the Pacha.

There arc two of these sets of passages — the upper and the loiocr.

The upper passage lies to the east, and is entirely rock-hewn until it
leaves the Triple Gate. It is a continuation of the rock-hewn overflow
passage from Tank XL, and is also connected with Tank X. It passes
under the centre arch of the Triple Gate, and then turns sharply round to
the cast until opposite the cast pier of the gate, when it turns again to the
south-west in a zigzag course. This passage may have been for inspecting
the tanks ; it does not appear to have been a water-channel. To the
south of the Sanctuary wall this passage is roofed with flat stones. It
passes the foundations of some old building, the stones of which are
dressed without marginal drafts. The sides of the passage rest on the
rock. The floor is about 9 feet below the surface at the Triple Gate.

The western passage is double, the branches joining a few feet south
of the Triple Gate. The western branch, coming from Tank X., is 3 feet
6 inches wide, and has a drain or water-channel sunk in its floor, with a
step on each side, as in the old aqueduct from Solomon's Pools found near
the Coenaculum. It is 19 feet below the surface of the ground. The
eastern branch comes from just under the floor-line of the tunnel, at the
entrance to Tank X., and descends very rapidly to a depth of 19 feet,
when it meets with the western branch. Here there is an old doorway,
W'hich indicates that it was a passage, and not a water-channel. These
passages have not been explored to the south.

The Double Gate.

This Gate has a twin passage, or tunnel, leading from the level
2,380 feet by a ramp up to the Sanctuary above ; it probably is one of the
Huldah Gates mentioned in the Talmud, and is similar to the double
passage at the Triple Gate. The double entrance is partially covered by
the Khatuniyeh, but about 6 feet of its eastern side is exposed (vide
photograph). The pier separating the passages can be partially seen in
Khatuniyeh vaults. The pier is 6 feet wide, and the passages 18 feet, and
correspond to the other three openings in the Sanctuary wall, at the Triple
Gate, Barclay's Gate, and that near Bab al Mathara. The openings are

JERUSALEM. 167

covered by a lintel, with relieving arch and cornice. Both the pier and
the lintel have marginal drafts, but the general appearance of the entrance
leads to the conclusion that it is a reconstruction out of old material
of comparatively recent date.

In the Sanctuary wall at this point is the Antonine inscription, upside
down."

The sill of the gate is on a level with that of the Triple Gate, and is
estimated to be 36 feet above the rock.

This double tunnel at the present extends for 260 feet under the Aksa
before it opens on to the Sanctuary, but from the drains and ducts found
on the surface, 7tndcr and alongside the present Aksa, and from the fact
of the masonry of the tunnel changing at 190 feet, it is evident that this
tunnel originally opened into the Sanctuary at 190 feet from the south wall.
The same was found with the double tunnel leading from the Triple
Gate.

In building the Aksa Mosque it was necessary to extend the passage
to 260 feet, and to cut down a portion of the ramp to a more gende slope
to prevent its coming to the surface too soon. The western portion of the
passage was also filled up on the north, to give room for a heavy pier of
masonry supporting the Mosque. There is a break in the arch of the
eastern passage just where the western terminates, and the ramp at that
point also changes its inclination.

The change in the inclination of the ramp necessitated the cutting away
of the duct to the Well of the Leaf.

The additions to this vault and to that of the Triple Gate appear
to be described by Procopius in his account of the erection of the Mary
Church of Justinian, on the foundations of which the present Aksa
Mosque is supposed to be built.

Entrance to the Tomb of Aaron's Sons, at South End of
Double Passage below the Aksa.

Within this gate the stones were removed, and the passage through
the wall e.xamined. It is 10 feet 6 inches thick, and rough inside, and is

* See paper on inscriptions.

i68 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

backed up with earth. There was no appearance of any series of vaults
or buildings to the west of this passage.

Standing Place of Elias, east side of Double Gate.

Tlie end of the passage or doorway was broken through ; it is 1 8 inches
thick. Behind is a mass of loose rubbish, after the removal of a quantity
of which it was apparent that there was only made earth beyond.

It is thus clc;ar that the double tunnel is by itself in the made earth,
and is not a portion of any series of vaults similar to those at the south-
east angle. It is possible, however, that at the south-west angle there
may be vaults in continuation of Cistern XX.

Masonry from the Double Gate to the Soutii-West Angle

above Ground.

About the Double Gate itself drafted stones are to be seen ; but
beyond it, to a point about 67 feet from the south-west angle, only large
stones with plain-dressed faces are to be found. These stones arc of
about the same height as the drafted stones, and the top of the highest
course is on the same level as the top of the highest drafted stone at the
south-west angle — 2,400 feet.

Some of the stones are upwards of 4 feet in height ; they are not laid
very skilfully, and the lines of the horizontal joints have a wavy appear-
ance ; and in one case a course 4 feet high at one end gradually runs out
in 200 feet to a height of 3 feet 4 inches. This, however, is not a feature
confined to this hewn or squared work, as it frequently occurs in the
drafted stones, and may be seen at the south-west angle. The corner-
stone, 38 feet 9 inches long, is 3 feet 3 inches high at the northern end,
and 3 feet 6 inches at the south-west angle.

The jointing also of the squared stones is not well arranged, the joints
acting as weepers, and the wall being much disfigured by the deposit of
lime on it.

The upper portion of the wall, above the squared and drafted stones,
is constructed with mediaeval masonry of small stones with rough pro-
jecting faces.

JERUSALEM. 169

Masonry at the Double Gate relow the Surface (Plate XXVII).

Shaft C 21 was sunk 213 feet from the south-west angle, close to the
platform of the Double Gate. Commenced 17th June, 1869.

The level of ground was about 2,378. Fifteen courses of stone were
exposed, from G to U, the latter being bedded in the rock at level
2,322 feet 4 inches. The distance from surface to rock was 54 feet
10 inches.

The courses vary in height from 3 feet 4J inches to 4 feet. The
eight lower courses {N to U) have marginal drafts, with rough projecting
faces.

The first two courses {G and H) below the surface are so much worn
that it is not certain that they have marginal drafts ; /andyare also much
worn, but the drafts can be seen. On K no drafts can be seen — It is very
much worn ; L and ]M are worn, but the drafts are quite conspicuous.

Below this the stones have rough faces ; but the drafts are in excellent
preservation, having never been exposed to the weather since the wall
was built.

At 3 feet 6 inches an old wall was encountered butting on to the
Sanctuary wall, the mortar of which appeared to have been mixed with oil
to harden it. It was passed at 6 feet, and then the soil was found to be
composed of lime and small stones.

At a depth of 25 feet, about on a level with the stones with rough pro-
jecting faces, some large stones were met with, which continued to 36 feet.
From this to the rock the soil was composed of small stones and chippings
mixed with earth. The rock at the bottom appeared to fall to the west.

Masonry at 90 feet East of South-West Angle.

Shaft C 19 was sunk 90 feet east of south-west angle. It was com-
menced in October, 1867.

The level of the ground was 2,377 feet. Twenty-four courses were
exposed, varying from 3 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 9 inches in height ; from
G to d, 87 feet 6 inches.

The foundation-stone {d) is bedded in the rock at the bottom of the

170 TJfE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Tyropoeon Valley ; it has a marginal draft, and a smooth face finely
dressed.

The stones of the fourteen next courses, from P to c, have finely
worked marginal drafts from 4 to 6 inches wide, and rough faces — in
many cases as much as 18 inches beyond the drafts — as though they had
not been touched after leaving the quarries.

The next course {O) has a face projecting 3 inches beyond the draft ;
and the next course {N) has a roughly dressed face.

The four next courses {J to L) are similar to those at the Wailing
Place, but much worn ; and the remainder above are pkiin-drcsscd, without
marginal drafts.

The rough-faced stones are in an excellent state of preservation,
having never been exposed to the weather since the wall was built. The
joints are hardly discernible, and so close that the blade of a knife can
scarcely be thrust in between them. Each course is set back about i inch,
to give the wall a batter.

At 12 feet 6 inches from the surface is a pavement of inezzeh, well
polished (probably from wear), the stones about 12 inches by 15 inches.
Beneath this, the shaft passed through 16 feet of concrete of stones,
bricks, and mortar. In this, at a depth of 22 feet, the signet-stone of
' Haggai, the son of Shebaniah,' was found, the name engraved in
Hebrew of the transition period, supposed to be at least as old as
the time of the Maccabees.

For 5 feet, to a depth of 33 feet 6 inches, loose stones and shingle
were met with. Here the rough projecting stones commence. Below this
level a wall was found perpendicular to the Sanctuary wall, and reaching
down to the rock, built of rubble, the stones about 2 feet cube. The shaft
was continued to the east of this wall, and large stones were met with,
measuring 3 feet by 2 feet 6 inches by 2 feet.

At 79 feet the covering-stone of a passage running south was reached,
the bottom 6 feet lower down, and the rock at 87 feet 6 inches (level
2,289 ^^^^ 8 inches). The passage is 4 feet high, 2 feet wide, built of
rubble masonry, with llat covering-stones. It is similar to that at the
Triple Gate, but not so carefully constructed.

The passage was cleared out for 600 feet, and appears to follow the
bed of the Tyropoeon valley, the rock being found to rise on either side.

JERUSALEM. 171

At 350 feet from the Sanctuary wall a narrow branch gallery runs in from
the east.

This passage appears to have existed previous to the building of the
Sanctuary wall, and to have been cut in two by it. It appears to have no
communication now with any drain from the north.

Masonry at 64 feet 6 inches East of the Soutii-West Angle.

This shaft (C 20) was commenced loth June, 1869, immediately under
the Sanctuary wall, at the Bench Mark near the point where the drafted
stones break off abruptly. Surface of ground, 2,380 feet 4 inches.

Nine courses (from F to N) were exposed, varying in height from
3 feet 4 inches to 3 feet 1 1 inches. The three first courses are much
worn ; those from I \.o N well preserved. The rough-faced projecting
stones commenced at A^.

Small stones and dry earth were found to a depth of 1 1 feet ; at a
depth of 1 5 feet 6 inches was a rough pavement set in lime, of stones
from 12 to 14 inches square, and about 9 to 12 inches deep.

Below the pavement the soil was good. On finding at a depth of
29 feet 6 inches that the stones with rough projecting faces commenced
with Course N, the shaft was closed.

Masonry in Shaft at South-west Angle, South Side.

Shaft C 22 commenced 30th June, 1869. Level of soil, 2,384 feet.
Thirteen courses from 3 feet 4 inches to 4 feet in height were exposed
from Course D to P. The stones with rough projecting faces com-
menced at P and the shaft was not sunk deeper. A gallery at Course P
was driven round the south-west angle to the west side, and two stones in
that corner examined in order to ascertain whether the stones with rouofh
faces continued to west. At the end of this gallery to west a shaft was.
sunk, and it was ascertained that the next course (0 had also a rough
projecting face.

The stones below the first pavement from K to P are well preserved.
In course/ is a round hole 5 inches in diameter and 10 inches deep.

22 — 2

172 THE SURVE Y OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Loose stones and chippings were found to about i6 feet in depth,
then large rough stones 3 feet by 18 inches.

At 23 feet 10 inches a pavement was met with near the top of Course
A' below the hole in Course/. At 28 feet the shaft came on some early
Christian lamps, one with a Greek inscription.

The soil, which below the pavement had been good, now changed to
rough stones, and the shaft was continued with difficulty to a depth of
38 feet 4 inches, when a pavenicnl of \(jry large stones was met with, in
an e.xcellcnt state of preservation ; it is 1 8 inches in depth. Below the
pa\-ement the drafted stones with rough projecting faces were found at
a depth of 42 feet 4 inches, the rubbish here being composed of large
rough stones.

TiiK South Wall irom Double G.vte to Soutii-West Angle.

From these excavations it is clear that this section of the wall is com-
posed of stones with rough projecting faces up to the level 2,350 feet,
except at the south-west angle, when they only reach up to 2,343-5 fc<^t.
The two courses between these two levels have not such projecting faces
as those below. From here up to level 2,366'5 feet, there are four courses,
similar to those at the Wailing Place, except for about 60 feet at the south-
west angle, where there arc ten more courses rising to 2,402 feet, so that
more than 36 feet of the old masonry has evidently been overturned be-
tween the Double Gate and south-west angle, and been replaced by stones
with plain dressed faces of nearly similar size to the drafted stones.

The Pavements.

It would appear thai the upper pavement extends from Wilson's Arch
round to the Double Gale ; it is about 23 feet below the present surface,
and is nearly on a level with the sill of Barclay's Gate and with the
pavement discovered in the shaft under Wilson's Arch. It has been found
to extend round the south-west angle to east for at least 90 feet, and it is
possible that it may be the roadway leading under Wilson's Arch to
the Dung Gate, spoken of in the Citez de Jherusalem.

A similar road under Wilson's Arch to the Dung Gate is to be seen

JERUSALEM. 173

depicted on the plan of Jerusalem of the twelfth century. Smith's ' Biblical
Dictionary,' art. Jerusalem. Underneath this pavement was the pottery
ascribed to the fourth and fifth century, and if so, we must suppose this
pavement to have been made after that date.

The lower pavement is apparently a portion of that found running up
from Robinson's Arch, past Barclay's Gate, which existed at the time of
the fall of Jerusalem, after the siege by Titus ; it is possible it may be the
marble pavement laid down by Herod Agrippa. It appears that it may
have been carried under the ramp at Barclay's Gate, through an arch
which there is reason to suppose still exists there, similar to, but smaller
than, Robinson's Arch.

The filling-in of the ground about the wall up to the level of the top
of the courses of stone with rough projecting faces appears to be exactly
in accordance with the account of Josephus (Bib. v. v. i). ' The lowest part
of this was erected to the height of 300 cubits, and in some places more,
yet did not the entire depth of the foundation appear, for they brought
earth and filled up the valleys, as being desirous to make them on a level
with the narrow streets of the city.' Whether the valley had partially
begun to fill up, or whether the whole of the soil was brought, is now the
only question that needs clearing up, it being generally admitted that the
roughly faced stones were never exposed to view.

The Tyropceon Bridge at South-West Angle of Sanxtuary.

The masonry at the south-west angle of the Sanctuary is now allowed
by all classes of controversialists to be of the Herodian period. It
extends as far as Barclay's Gate on the east side and as far as the
Double Gate on the south side ; beyond these points there is a change.

The peculiarity of this portion of the Sanctuary wall is that it is
built with drafted stones with roiigh projecting faces up to a certain height
(Course P), whereas at the south-east angle, and from Barclay's Gate to
the Wailing Place, the drafted stones have their faces nicely worked
throughout the wall from the foundation.

The remains of a pavement have been found, running round the wall
at the height of the termination of the drafted stones with rough faces,
and the inference to be drawn is that this portion of the wall is of

174 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTEXE.

a construction later tlian the portions above mentioned ; that is to say,
that the portions about the Wailing Place and south-east angle were buik
before the time of King Herod, and that the south-west angle was the
extension by King Herod.

The Sanctuary wall is now covered up by an accumulation of soil at the
south-west angle to about the level 2,388 feet, and above this level several
courses of drafted masonry are visible. At the present level of the ground
is to be seen the longest stone that has yet been found in the wall.
It measures 38 feet 9 inches from the south-west angle to the com-
mencement of Robinson's Arch; it is 3 feet 4 inches high, and 10 feet
thick, and weighs about 80 tons ; it is about 62 feet above the foundation
of the wall.

Above this stone there are on the south side four courses, and on
the west side two courses of drafted stones yet remaining in the wall.
This masonry, as may be seen from the photograph, is similar, but not
superior, to that at the Wailing Place. The south-west angle is a right
angle.

Above these drafted stones are ten courses of small squared plain
dressed stones, without marginal drafts, averaging i foot 10 inches in
height, similar to those in the south wall, east of Double Gate, and to those
in the west wall at liarclay's Gate. They are generally considered to be
late Byzantine. (Plate XXYHI.)

At about 75 feet from the south-west angle, on the south side, the four
upper courses of drafted stones cease and their place is occupied by
large squared plain stones, without marginal drafts^ of about 3 feet
6 inches in height, similar to those at the Wailing Place. Above these
again are the small squared stones with smooth faces. At about the
level of the Sanctuary the wall is built of small drafted stones with
rough projecting faces, similar to those in a portion of the Citadel.
(Plate XXVII.)

In the west wall, about 50 feet from the south-west angle over
Robinson's Arch, there is an abrupt change in the style of masonry.
The wall is built of small stones cut out of old material ; beyond the arch
the small stones without drafts again appear in the lower portion of
the wall. There is thus evidence of five distinct periods of construction,
which probably succeeded each other in the following order :

JERUSALEM. 175

1. The large stones with marginal drafts. Epoch from Solomon to
Herod Agrippa.

2. The large plain dressed stones, from Hadrian to Justinian.

3. The medium plain dressed stones, sixth to eighth centuries.

4. The small stones with marginal drafts and projecting faces, ninth
to twelfth centuries.

5. Small stones of various description, recent. (Plate XXVIII.)

At 39 feet from the south-west angle on the west side are the remains
of the springing of an ancient arch, first discovered by Dr. Robinson, and
so called Robinson's Arch. The three first stones, forming the springing
and being portion of the wall, are all that now remain of the arch above
the surface of the ground. They are of soft iiialaki, are much worn, but
yet the curve of the intrados is quite apparent. This line of springing
extends for 50 feet at a level of 2387"5 feet. Below this the course
has an off-set of i foot 3 inches, and it has been suggested that this
is a pier extending to the foundation. It is probable, however, that the
next course again sets in in line with the Sanctuary wall, as is the case
with a similar set-out under the arch-stone at the south-east ang-le.

It seems to be a matter for speculation as to why the arch-stones of a
bridge should be of soft inalaki, when the adjoining stones in the wall are
of hard misses. These arch-stones are about 4 feet in height, and do not
appear to be a portion of the original wall. From the arch up to Barclay's
Gateway the Sanctuary wall above the surface of the ground is made up
of small stones squared and drafted, and none of the ancient masonry is to
be seen.

West Sanctuary Wall below Ground.

The wall was seen at the south-west angle (described in speaking of the
south wall) to a depth of 48 feet to Course P, where a gallery was driven
round the angle to a distance of 10 feet along the west wall, where these
stones were found to have rough projecting faces. The wall was seen in
several places above the pavement in a drain reaching as far as Barclay's
Gate, running along the wall at a level. Here it was found to be similar
to the wall at the Wailing Place. (Plates XI I. and XXVI II.)

Again the wall was seen at several points beloiv the pavement, and the
stones were found to have rough projecting faces. It was seen in a

176 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

gallery immediately below the pavement under the arch, and at the foun-
dation at three points, at one 55 feet north of the arch, and in a passage
a little south of the arch, where the same rough faces were seen. It is
thus certain that below the level of the pavement (at Course P) the stones
have rough projecting faces, while those; above the pavement are similar
to those at the Wailing Place. There are si.x courses below the pave-
ment and twelve courses above to the surface of the ground. They
average 3 feet 4 inches to 4 feet in height, and give a general height from
the ground to the rock of about 62 feet. The excavations below the
surface proved that the Sanctuary wall extended in an unbroken line
from the south-west angle to Barclay's Gate.

The wall is here built over the western side of the valley.
(Plate VII.) No excavations were permitted from the surface close to
the Sanctuary wall on the west side, but early one morning three courses
were uncovered near the southern side of the arch.

Robinson's Akcii and the Pier.

The arch as it is now seen in the west wall extends for 50 feet, and
the span is a little over 41 feet 6 inches at the pavement; probably at
the surface under the springing the span may have been 43 or 44 feet,
allowing a batter both for the wall and pier.

The pier is 5 1 feet 6 inches in length, so that there thus appears to
have been a batter on the ends of the pier of 9 inches, as the width of
the arch is 50 feet. The pier rests on the rock at 42 feet below the
spring of the arch at level 2,345 feet, and is 20 feet above the base of
the Sanctuary wall, and is above the pavement. It is 12 feet 2 inches
thick, and constructed of long drafted stones of hard mezzeh, similar to
those in the wall above the pavement, one being over 13 feet in length
and weighing ten tons.

Only about half the bulk of the pier is occupied by stone, there being
a hollow space 5 feet wide in the interior, and the eastern side being
built up in a series of five smaller piers, each 5 feet long, with spaces 6 feet
6 inches wide, covered with lintels. This extends upwards for two
courses, or about 7 feet 3 inches, and the stones of the third course lie
like lintels over the spaces.

JERUSALEM.

177

Three courses were /// sittt on the eastern and two on the western side.
The lowest course Is 3 feet 6 inches in height, the second 3 feet 9 inches,
and the third 4 feet in height. They correspond in appearance to
Courses Z, M, N at the south-west angle.

The eastern side of the pier has no batter for the two courses, while
on the western side the second course is set back several inches. The
pier was examined at its northern and southern ends, on the eastern side

for 28 feet, and along the western side — but here, on account of the nature
of the ground, it could not be carefully examined.

To the west of the pier is a rock-hewn channel close to the pier, with
a perpendicular scarp below the pier of 4 feet ; and on the east side of
the pier the rock is scarped down nearly perpendicularly for a depth of
about 18 feet.

1 78 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The Pavement {Plates XXV'III. and XXIX.).

Stretching from the base of the pier to the Sanctuary wall, at a level
of about 2,345 feet, there is a pavement of blocks of hard missa weighing
about ]i ton each. They are highly polished (probably by traffic), and
have a fall slightly to the east.

This pavement was also seen at the southern end of the pier, where a
manhole was found leading down to an aqueduct below. As will be men-
tioned hereafter, the shafts up to the surface from this aqueduct were
traced from the south-east angle for a distance of 220 feet, or nearly to
Barclay's Gate. This pavement is probably a portion of that found at
the south-west angle at level 2,350. The pavement appears to have a
rise in its length of about 8 feet to Barclay's Gate.

The Voussoirs of the Arch (Plates XXVIII. and XXIX).

On the pavement reaching from the base of the pier to the Sanctuary
wall are the voussoirs of the arch lying in lines north and south, just as
they fell ; and there was space sufficient between each set to enable a
man to squeeze, with difficulty, for about 10 to 15 feet to north or south
from the central point, where they reached close to the pier.

They are of the vialaki bed, but are so hard that it was necessary to
blast out a passage through them to the east. This was very dangerous
work, as the stones lie loosely one over another, and the gallery frames
were not strong enough to support their weight.

These voussoirs were again examined both at their northern and
southern terminations, from the extremities of the piers across nearly to
the Sanctuary wall ; but there was other masonry here intermingled, and
the voussoirs forming the faces of the bridge could not be identified.

Aqueduct above the Pavement (Plates VII., XXIX. and XXXII.).

The northern portion of the pier was found to have been utilized as the
side of a cistern, its bottom above the pavement. After it was emptied,
a low passage or drain was found in its eastern side leading to the

JERUSALEM. 179

Sanctuary wall at about 8 feet above the pavement. On reaching the
Sanctuary, it branched off north and south along the wall. It is 3 feet
wide and 2 feet high, and is covered with flagging on the top ; its sides
are of rubble and flagging.

On the side to the Sanctuary wall the rubble is thick, and every here
and there, through a break in the side, the ancient wall can be seen with
its drafted stones, similar to those at the Wailing Place.

It was traced as far north as the southern side of Barclay's Gate, where
a break in the top occurred, through which a great amount of shingle
poured, and prevented the continuation of the search. It was, however,
found again in the shaft along the northern joint of Barclay's Gate.

The total length to the north was 165 feet (.'*). It here appears to end
in a vault or cistern, probably the arch supporting the viaduct to Barclay's
Gate. It was examined about 35 feet to the south, when the roof stones
were found to be wanting.

Rock below the Pavement (Plates XXVIII. and XXIX.).

The rock appears originally to have sloped from the foot of the
pier to the Sanctuary wall at a slope of about i in 2, or 20 feet in 40 feet.
It is, howev-er, scarped nearly perpendicularly down for 20 feet from the
pier, and is then cut nearly horizontally and smoothly from the foot of the
scarp to the Sanctuary wall. It continues to fall to the valley bed,
which was found at about 90 feet east of the south-west angle.

The space under the pavement, between the Sanctuary w'all and the
rock, is filled with ddbris and old masonry.

The Old Aqueduct, and Voussoirs of a Fallen Arch
(Plates XXVIII. to XXX.).

Cut in the levelled rock (level 2,325) is an aqueduct, which, under the
middle of the bridge, is 1 2 feet deep and 4 feet wide ; and its eastern side
is 1 2 feet from the Sanctuary wall at this point. The bottom is at a level
2,313 feet.

It does not run parallel to the wall, and was probably cut a long time
before the wall was built. It is covered by an arch, but opposite the

i8o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

centre of the pier this arch has been broken in for about 20 feet in length
by two large stones, apparently the voussoirs of a bridge, which have
fallen from above. One of them is much decayed ; the other is 7 feet
long, 5 feet thick at the extrados, 4 feet 4 inches at the intrados, and 4 feet
high. Towards the centre, at one side, is a square joggle hole 14 inches
by 1 1 inches, by 4^ inches deep.

Search was made both in the aqueduct and in the dcbrii for other
voussoirs without result, though they may exist.

This aqueduct has a fall to the south.

At 24 feet south of the two voussoirs is a square rock-cut cistern,
spanned by a segmental arch from north to south, whence a passage runs
east to the Sanctuary wall, which is cut in two by it. A second passage
to the west from this cistern is closed by a fallen stone, on which the arch
of the tank rests.

To the south there is an entrance to a circular rock-hewn cistern,
diameter 16 feet, height 14 feet 4 inches, the roof of rock and flat, with a
thickness of 2 to 3 feet. The roof is pierced with a shaft leading down
from the pavement above.

This rock-cut aqueduct continues from the cistern to the south with
its bottom nearly at the same level as that of the aqueduct to the north,
while the bottom of the cistern is 3 feet lower, so that there might be a
supply of water in the tank to be drawn off by buckets let down from the
pavement above through the shaft.

The aqueduct continues to the south-east, 8 feet deep, 3 feet 9 inches
wide, and covered by a nearly semicircular but slightly pointed arch of
six stones. After passing round the south-west angle, the aqueduct
changes its direction more easterly, and, emerging from the rock, is carried
on in masonry 3 feet wide, with an arch of 5 voussoirs. It falls rapidly
towards the bed of the valley. After about 40 feet it turns to south, and
is continued as a drain 2 feet wide, roofed over with flat stones, for a
further distance of 59 feet, when it becomes silted up and very narrow.

To the north of the fallen voussoirs the aqueduct runs slightly away
from the Sanctuary wall, and is 3 feet 9 inches wide and about 1 1 feet high.
It is arched by a peculiar skew-pointed arch, with five courses, two on one
side, measuring 22 inches, and three on the other side, measuring -^i inches.
At 34 feet from the north end of the pier the canal issues from a circular

JERUSALEM.

iSi

rock-hewn cistern, 12 feet 9 inches in diameter, 14 feet high, with its
floor 3 feet below that of the aqueduct. The roof is of rock, and is
pierced with a shaft from the pavement above. There are also two shafts
down from the pavement to the aqueduct, between the two rock-hewn
cisterns, but only one is shown on the plan. A canal 4 feet wide, cut in
the rock, and 14 feet in length, enters the cistern at the north. At
the north end of this canal, to the east, is the entrance to a circular
rock-cut cistern, of which only half can be seen, as it is cut in two by

v^i^-'T-

the foundation of the Sanctuary wall. To the west of this canal, and
partially over-lying the rock-cut cistern, are two rock-hewn rectangular
chambers, 16 feet by 6 feet, with semicircular arches. In one is a flight
of steps leading up above, cut in the rock. A base of a column had
fallen through the roof, and was lying in one of these chambers.

The canal from this cistern turns to the west for a few feet, and then
sharply to the north : it leaves the rock, and is continued in masonry
for 123 feet, 3 feet wide and 8 feet high, with a semicircular arch of

l82

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

five voussoirs. In front of Barclay's Gate, and at about 14 feet from the
Sanctuary wall, it is replaced by a narrow passage 18 inches wide with a
flat roof of flagging. It now runs off from the Sanctuary wall, and at
a distance of 160 feet, near the Street of the Chain, it is cut in two by

the wall of a house. Opposite to Barclay's Gate the bottom of the
canal was about 7 feet above the rock. At every 30 or 40 feet in the
canal, shafts in the roof were found leading up to the pavement, by
which buckets could be lowered for the purpose of obtaining water.
The aqueduct, from its commencement to the south-west angle, has a

fall of about i in 20. The aqueducts were filled with mud and silt
nearly up to the top of the arches.

Several lamps, stone weights, jars, and an iron bar were found in the
canal ; also a stone-roller similar to those still in use in some parts of the

JERUSALEM. 183

country for rolling the flat roofs of houses, covered with wooden joists
and mud. There are no such roofs now in Jerusalem ; they are all of
masonry, wood being very scarce.

The Valley under the Sanctuary.

The bed of the valley is about 90 feet east of the south-west angle,
the rock sloping down to it at about 2 in 5. The wall crosses the valley
to the eastern side, between Wilson's Arch and Barclay's Gate.

The following is a suggestion as to the sequence of the various works
about this portion of the wall :

1. The winding aqueduct was cut in the rock at a very early period,
and may be the ' brook that ran through the midst of the land,'
(2 Chron. xxxii., 4) with its cisterns suitable for the supply of the
inhabitants with water. It probably proceeds from the Hammam csh
Shefa, higher up the valley, a rock-cut well which now supplies the
baths of Jerusalem with water.

2. The west retaining wall of the Temple of Solomon was built,
(represented by the present Sanctuary wall) from Barclay's Gate to
Wilson's Arch. The Palace of Solomon was built (represented by the
old masonry) at the south-east angle of the Sanctuary. A bridge was
constructed leading across from the Lower City to the Palace.

3. The arch of this bridge fell in, or was removed ; the aqueduct was
arched over ; the present south-west angle was constructed from Barclay's
Gate to the Double Gate by King Herod.

At this time the rubbish in the valley was raised to a height of
23 feet; accordingly the wall was built with rough projecting faces to this
point, and the rubbish covered over with the present pavement, and the
pier and arch of the Tyropceon Bridge were constructed. In order to
obtain water readily, shafts (which still exist) were constructed at intervals
from the pavement to the canal and pools.

At Barclay's Gate the ramp would be 16 feet above the pavement,
with a retaining wall on east side. That on the north still exists. It is
probable that this ramp passed over an arch which still exists. ( Vide
B. J. V. 5, I, and Ant. xx. 9, 7.)

4. The bridge fell at the time when the city was taken by Titus,

1 84 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

and now rests upon the pavement ; the valley became choked up with
d(!bris.

5. A pavement and the drain found underneath was laid at the level
of Barclay's Gate, from the south-west angle to the Bab as Silsile, and
Wilson's Arch was built over it.

Mention of this road and arch is made in the Citez dc Jherusalem, and
parts of the pavement and drain still exist.

Excavations in the TvRorcEON (Plate XXVI.).

Seven shafts were sunk in a line cast and west across the Tyropocon
Valley, opposite to Robinson's Arch, in order to ascertain the nature of the
valley and search for remains of the ancient viaduct.

No. I. — 2S5 feet from the Sanctuary wall, and close in under the
eastern side of the Upper City ; the level of surface was 2,401 feet ; the
level of rock, 2,379 feet 6 inches. It was sunk through common garden
soil, and at 21 feet 6 inches came on a polished limestone slab, 6 feet
square, covering the main sewer of the city, which is 6 feet high, 3 feet
wide, cut in the rock, and full of sewage, through which a current of
water was running to south — probably from the baths ; some i^ieces of
paper were thrown in, and in a few minutes they appeared in the main
sewer, where it is uncovered, outside the Dung Gate. This seems to be
the sewer through which the fellahin entered the city in the time of
Ibrahim Pasha, when they appear to have penetrated up as far as the
causeway of David Street, and found exit through some of the vaults
there. The sewer itself runs on past the Dung Gate towards Siloam,
until it opens out on the side of the hill above the Kedron, only a few
feet south of the Fountain of the Virgin. It was examined by our
party in 1S68, and is, no doubt, the passage explored by Dr. Barclay
('City of the Great King'), as far as the Dung Gate, when he supposed it
to be a water channel running into the Virgin's Fount, from the Temple
or from Sion.

The sewage at present escapes from the sewer after passing the Dung
Gate, and is used by the fellahin for the purpose of irrigating and

nuring.

No. II. — 250 feet from the Sanctuary wall (line of surface, 2,4o6"6 feet ;

JERUSALEM. 185

level of rock, 2,388'6 feet) came upon the remains of a colonnade just
below the surface, consisting of piers built on the rock, 2 feet by 3 feet, and

3 feet by 4 feet, and about 12 feet 6 inches apart, with fallen arches be-
tween ; the piers were built of well-dressed ashlar of soft sandstone, similar
to the ruins of Kakun, Suwaimeh, etc., in the Jordan valley. On the
north side a jDlastered wall of rubble was found between the piers, and it
was not ascertained whether there were more piers beyond ; to the east
they were continued (as will be seen in the succeeding shafts), and appear
to have formed either a covered way or else to have supported the viaduct
reaching over to Robinson's Arch. The flooring was much disturbed, and
is formed of well-dressed limestone flagging cut in squares, and laid parallel
to the lie of the building, east and west. The piers measure about 1 2 feet
from flagging to springing of arches, and are built in courses about i foot
each in height.

Cut in one of the piers is a little door, leading to a cylindrical cistern
cut and roofed in rock, and plastered with 2 inches of cement ; the
diameter of the cistern was 10 feet ; the height, 15 feet 3 inches; the roof
is slightly domed.

No. III. — 216 feet from the Sanctuary wall (level of surface, 2,409"5
feet ; level of rock, 2,377'5 feet) at 12 feet an arch similar to, and in line
with the north wall at No. II. was found ; at 18 feet a limestone pavement
similar to No. II. Below the pavement was found debris of cut stones,
2 feet by i foot by i foot ; and the remains of a wall {inalaki') running
north and south, of well squared dressed stones, resting on the rock.

No. IV. — 182 feet from the Sanctuary wall (level of surface, 2,405*5
feet; level of rock, 2,383'5 feet) at 12 feet was found the ddbris of a
stone building, and part of a white marble column, 12 inches in
diameter. These ruins appear to be a portion of the colonnade
met with in Nos. II. and III. Below this at 22 feet, the mouth of a
cistern was cut in the rock. The cistern was square, the sides 10 feet
long, the roof flat, and 7 feet below the surface of rock the height
10 feet, with plaster 2 inches thick and very hard; there is no entrance
for water ; two man-holes e.xist, opening down through the roof, i foot

4 inches by 2 feet 3 inches, and 2 feet 6 inches by 2 feet respectively.
This may have been constructed for the reception of grain in early
times.

i86 THE SURVEY OE UESTERX PALESTEVE.

No. \^ — 132 feet from the Sanctuary wall (level of surface, 2,399 feet ;
level of rock, 2,369 feet) came at 13 feet 6 inches on the walls of a
plastered chamber, resting at 21 feet 3 inches on a strong wall of hammer-
dressed stones, running north and south, which again, at 26 feet 10 inches,
rests on a strong wall, running east and west ; there are three courses of
this latter remaining, and they rest on the rock ; the courses are i foot
8 inches in height.

The rock here is scarped and cut into steps ; there is a recess at the
bottom of the steps covered over by a piece of flagging 3 inches thick, on
which a buttress rests ; the stones of these walls arc of malaki ; the wall
running east and west is about 15 feet thick, and its use is not apparent.

No. VI. — 92 feet from the Sanctuary wall (level of surface, 2,395 feet ;
level of rock, 2,354 feet 6 inches) passed some dc'bris of sandstone similar
to that found in Nos. 2, 3, and 4, probably forming part of the colonnade.

At 9 feet was found the mouth of a shaft 8 feet deep, opening
through the crown of a nearly semicircular arch, covering a tank 18 feet
long, north to south, 11 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 feet high from the
bottom to the springing of the arch. A hole was made through the
plaster at the western side, and rock found at 3^ feet ; it is scarped for
some feet north and south ; it probably is the east side of the second
pier from the Sanctuary wall ; no drafted stones, however, were found on
it, neither were any fallen voussoirs found underneath the tank, which is
quite a modern construction.

From this cistern a staircase gallery was driven along the face of the
rock to the pier of Robinson's Arch, the last 16 feet being in a curious
cutting in the rock.

The TvRorcEOx \'.\llev.

It appears by the excavations recorded above that there is a steep
scarp from the Upper City down to the Tyropoeon, and that thence the
rock shelves down to and past the south-west angle of the Sanctuary wall,
the levels beinsf : —

Brow of cliff under Jews' Quarter, about 2,446 feet ;
Ground at foot of scarp, about 2,415 feet ;
Level of rock at Robinson's Arch, 2,325 feet;

lERU SALEM. 187

Level of rock in bed of valley, 2,289 feet ;

Spring of Robinson's Arch, 2,387"5 feet ;

Level of Sanctuary, 2,420-0 feet ;

Present level of ground at Robinson's Arch, 2386'5 feet.

In this slope there are two minor depressions, which arc probably
artificial ; they serve to show how hazardous it is to risk speculation as to
the slope of the rock from its appearance over a small area ; thus at
two points for several feet it slopes to west instead of to east.

Sir Charles Wilson has suggested that the sandstone piers found on
this line may be portion of a bazaar or other building erected during the
period of the Frank kingdom.

There are no grounds for supposing that the roadway over Robinson's
Arch led up to the Upper City, either by steps or by a bridge ; it was prob-
ably one of the suburban entrances spoken of by Josephus. There may
have been other arches in continuation of Robinson's Arch, but there is no
indication of this existing on the ground.

The First Suburban Gate and Wailing Place.
(Plates, XXX L and XXXII.)

This gate is called by old writers ' the Gate of Mahomet,' or ' the
Prophet's Gate ;' it is also called ' Barclay's Gate,' after Dr. Barclay, who
first discovered it, and above it is the modern gate of ' Bab al Magharibe,'
or Moor's Gate.

The Moor's Gate is situated about 270 feet from the south-west angle ;
from this point to the Mahkama, a distance of about 200 feet, the old
wall of the Sanctuary is exposed for six courses above the pavement of
the Wailing Place ; level 2,392-5 feet.

The stones in these courses are very unequal in appearance ; some of
them are from the best viissce beds, and are admirably finished and well
preserved, while others are from the soft ntalaJd and upper misscc, con-
taining numbers of small nodules, and disintegrating rapidly. (See
Woodbury-type.)

Many of these softer blocks are much worn by the weather, and are
not set on their quarry beds. In consequence of these inequalities in the

iS8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

wall, it has been suggested by Sir Charles Wilson as 'almost certain that
the stones are not really in situ, and that this section of the wall is a
reconstruction out of old material.' But as these inequalities are also
found among the stones down to the rock, both at the Moor's Gate and at
Wilson's Arch, the suggestion merely amounts to the proposition that
when this wall was built some stones were used in it that had been used
in a former wall. But even in this case it is only a proposition that this
wall was not constructed by the firsi builder at Jerusalem who used
drafted stones.

It would appear also that it would be the /wsi builder at Jerusalem
who would make the mistake of using soft and hard stone indiscriminately,
before experience had taught that stones of certain kinds wore out before
others of a more durable nature.

In fact, the very faults found in this wall rather tend to jarove its
antiquity. In later years experience taught the builders how to select
and place the large blocks so that they might survive through all
ages.

The drafted stones in the Wailing Place are of an average height of
3 feet 6 inches and have drafts of from 2 to 4 inches in width, and \ to
}^ inch in depth, worked over with an eight-toothed chisel, the face being
also worked over in a similar manner.

The stones of the Wailing Place are so well known that they are taken
as a standard of comparison for other portions of the wall of the Noble
Sanctuary.

Above these drafted stones are four courses of large squared stones
with plain dressed faces, which are usually referred to the late Roman or
Byzantine period. There are several holes notched into the wall, which
seem to indicate that formerly it was covered over with vaulted buildings,
as at the Mahkama and the House of Abu Saud.

The general level of the Sanctuary is 2,420 feet, but at the Moor's
Gate it is but 2,416 feet. Immediately outside this gate the general
surface of the ground is about 2,395 feet, and a ramp leads up to the gate
on vaults. This ramp, near the gate, is formed of two vaults one over
the other, and in the lower one the lintel of Barclay's Gate is seen.

The bottom of the lintel is at a level of 2,398 feet 5 inches, beino-
5 feet 5 inches above the surface of the ground at thai point.

JERUSALEM. 1S9

The height of the Hntel is 6 feet 10 inches ; the total length visible is
20 feet I inch.

The calculated length of the lintel is 24 feet S inches. The lintel pro-
jects over the northern jamb, and this jamb is flush with the northern side
of the older portion of the passage inside, which is here 18 feet 8 inches
wide ; supposing the gateway to be also 18 feet 8 inches wide, and the lintel
to project also as much over the southern jamb, its length is thus obtained.
The entrance under the lintel is 28 feet 9f inches in height, and calculated
to be 18 feet in width. Above the lintel the Sanctuary wall is built with
small stones plain dressed, and the entrance itself is filled up with coarse
rubble, with here and there a few cut stones.

Built into the rubble masonry, 1 1 feet below the lintel at its northern
end, is a projecting stone corbel, which has probably been used for
supporting the substructures or vaults of a house built against the
Sanctuary wall.

The two courses of drafted stones and four courses of squared stones
above the level of the lintel, which are to be seen at the Wailing Place,
terminate abrupdy at about 12 feet from the gate, on the north.

Sanctuary Wall below the Surface at Barclay's Gate.

The wall below the surface and the northern jamb of gateway were
examined by a shaft sunk down to the rock.

The sill-stone of the gateway is so broken that it is difficult to deter-
mine whether the entrance was 28 feet 93- inches, or 32 feet \\ inches
below the lintel ; the former has been assumed as the height.

The Sanctuary wall was bared to a depth of 78 feet 6 inches from the
bottom of the lintel to the rock, and the stones are of one appearance
throughout, and are probably in situ. They appear to be similar to those
at the Wailing Place, but are not so much worn. Many of them are well
preserved at the top and worn at the bottom.

There are twenty-six courses of drafted stones in all, twenty-two below
the lintel, two on a level with it, and two above its level. They are from
3 feet 3 inches to 3 feet 1 1 inches in height. With one exception the top
draft on each stone is a little wider than the bottom draft, and this i^ecu-
liarity has been noticed in other portions of the wall.

190 THE SURVEY OF VVESTERX PALEST/ XE.

The bottom course Is let into the rock, and each course is set back
from \ to I inch.

A shaft was commenced near the northern jamb of the gate on i 7ih
March, 1869, at level 2,392. At 5 feet below the surface a lamp and a
good deal of broken pottery, bearing scrolls and other devices, was
met with.

The soil was very black and loose; at 14 feet hard earth was met
with, mi,\ed with large stones, some of them 2 feet long.

At 9 inches below the sill course a piece of stone flagging was encoun-
tered, forming the flat roof of the drain running along the Sanctuary wall
to the south-west angle. This drain is here 2 feet 4 inches wide, and
5 feet 6 inches high.

This drain was followed from the south-west angle to within a few
feet of this point ; communication by knocking was made between the
two portions of the drain, but it could not be opened throughout,
as rubbish from above had choked up the passage. This drain is
above the pavement found at Robinson's Arch and at the south-west
angle.

Below this drain, at 31 feet below the surface of the ground, is a
heavy masonry wall, faced to north with well-dressed stones in courses
9 inches to 18 inches in height, of malaki, without drafts; it is perpen-
dicular, and abuts on to the Sanctuary wall, and is a retaining wall, as it
has only a rough face to south : it is 6 feet thick. It continues down for
35 feet 6 inches, and its foundations are about 7 feet from the rock ; they
rest on rubbish.

For the last 30 feet the shaft was sunk through hard earth and broken
cut stones, many of them 3 feet by 2 feet by 1 8 inches.

The rock is cut horizontally at the base of the wall for the reception of
the foundation-stone ; its natural fall appears to be to the west at this
point, but the general fall must be to the east, as the bottom of the valley
is considerably to the east of this portion of the wall.

Near the foot of the wall is the aqueduct which runs from the Great
Causeway to the south-west angle.

JERUSALEM. 191

Approach to the Gateway.

From the two shafts sunk at Wilson's Arch and at Barclay's Gate, it
is obvious that the Sanctuary wall is for this portion built up from the
bottom with drafted stones with well-cut faces. But to the south of the
retaining wall at Barclay's Gate, at the south-west angle and round the
south-west angle to the Double Gate, the stones in the wall have rough
projecting faces up to the level of the pavement under Robinson's Arch,
that is, up to Course P, or to about 23 feet 6 inches above the rock
at Barclay's Gate, the sill of the gate being about 50 feet above the
rock.

From this the inference may be drawn that the wall to the south of
Barclay's Gate is of later date than that to the north, and was not com-
menced till the valley had begun to fill up about 23 feet 6 inches at this
part.

In this case the retaining wall may have been one side of a ramp or
viaduct leading across the valley to this Suburban Gate, at a height of
27 feet above the surface of the ground at that time.

Ancient Passage at Barclay's Gate.

By those who have considered the position of the Temple in the
Court of the Sanctuary, great stress has been laid upon the importance
of the passage under the lintel into the Mosque al Burak.

Colonel Wilson says : ' This mosque marks the line of the passage
which gave access to the Temple platform, and part of the original
covering arch can be seen.' And in speaking of the continuation of this
passage where it turns to the south, he says : ' The west wall of the
cistern is parallel to the Haram wall, and in prolongation of the west wall
of the passage, so that it evidently formed part of the approach to the
Temple platform.'

All we know on the subject at present is that here are the remains of
an ancient passage leading from the Prophet's Gate, but whether it is
Byzantine, Herodian, or of more ancient date, cannot be at present
determined, and until correct plans on a large scale of the tunnel and its
arches are obtained, it is useless to speculate with too great certainty.

I9-' Tlir. SUI<\r.Y 01- WESTERN r.\!.r.STlXE.

The passage running in to the Sanctuary from Barclay's Gate is i8
feet wide, and reaches up to and above the Hntel, but its lloor is about 22
feet above the level of the sill of the gate ; it is called the Mosque al
Burak, and is reached by a modern llight of steps leading down from the
west cloisters of the Sanctuary. At 38 feet from the Sanctuary outer
wall this chamber is closed by a masonry wall.

The inner face of the lintel is nearly concealed by a Oat arch of 5
stones. Height, 2 feet 10 inches ; the keystone is 3 feet 2 inches in
height.

I'rom thence, for 10 feet to east, there is a segmental arch of 19 feet 3
inches span, and 3 feet 8 inches rise, of fine workmanship. The keystone
is 2 feet 6 inches wide, while the other courses of the arch vary from i foot
9 inches to 3 feet 6 inches. The spring of the arch is on a level with the
bottom of the lintel of the gate, and the floor line is 5 feet below this.
This arch has a simple moulding on its eastern face. The eastern portion
of this passage is covered with an elliptical arch of later date. In the
mosque is shown the ring to which the winged beast al Burak was tied
by Mahomet on the occasion of his famous night journey.

At 42 feet from the Sanctuary wall this passage is again to be seen In
Cistern XIX. It reaches to a distance of 69 feet from the Sanctuary wall,
where there is a vestibule about 1 8 feet square, covered by a rather flat
dome. The passage then turns round to south and continues for 43 feet
parallel to the Sanctuary wall.

The east and west passage is covered by an elliptical arch of well cut
stone ; its springing is horizontal, but in that north and south there is a
rise to south of about i in 10 ; this latter arch is segmental.

To support the dome are segmental relieving arches at a lower level.
The span is 16 feet 5 inches ; there are seven stones in each course. The
keystone is only about i foot 6 inches wide, while the others are about
3 feet 6 inches. These voussoirs are about 3 feet deep. They have
several mouldings of peculiar shape (shown in wood-cut). The dome is
flat, formed of four courses of stone. The sides of the passage are thickly
coated with cement, and are irregular in parts.

There was water in the tank when it was examined. Farther to the south
this passage is supposed again to be found in Tank No. XX., which is 40
feet wide, 54 feet long, and 44 feet 6 inches deep, with a double vaulted

JERUSALEM. 193

pointed roof supported by a set of piers runninL;- up the centre. It appears
to be modern in construction, with the exception of the remains ot an old
arch on the western side.

It seems probable that the passage opened out into the Sanctuary at
the site of this tank.

The Great Causeway and Pool Al Burak.

The buildings of the Mahkama, or Court House, extend along the
Sanctuary wall from the Wailing Place to the Gate of the Chain, over a
distance of more than 90 feet, and within its vaults the great wall can be
traced at intervals, and is found to be in the same line, and built in the
same style, as at the Wailing Place.

These vaults are reached by an opening from the south through the
garden, recently walled off from the W^ailing Place. They have pointed rag-
work arches, and their haunches rest on corbels built into the Sanctuary
wall. From the appearance of similar cuttings in the stones of the wall
to south, it is probable that the Wailing Place was also at one time
covered up by a series of vaults. The level of the Wailing Place is
2,394 ft^tit, but the lloors of the vaults are at 2,405. At about 71 feet
north from the southern face of the IMahkama is the Pool al Burak,
whose level at bottom is 2,388 feet.

This Pool is irregular in shape : for about 25 feet it has a segmental
arch of good masonry of about 17 feet span, on which the wall of the
Mahkama is built. On the haunches of this arch are corbels which
may possibly have supported the 'Secret Passage' described page 203.
Beyond, for about 8 feet, is a trimmer arch of more recent construction
and inferior masonry, and the remainder of the Pool is covered by a
semicircular arch (Wilson's) with a span of 42 feet, and width of about
43 feet. Recently (in 1866) about 16 feet of the northern portion of the
Pool has been cut off and turned into a tank, so that the arch now only
measures about 27 feet in width. The Pool formerly extended still
further beyond Wilson's Arch, and this northern part is covered by a
pointed arch.

ly-j THE SURILY Ol- WESTERN PALESTINE.

Masonry ok tiii; Wist Wall.

\ anOus iioriinns of the Sanctuary wall arc to be seen within these
vaults and in lluj I'ool al lUir.ik ; and Ijcnealli tin- lloor of the Pool the
wall was exaniincd by a shaft sunk down alonJ3^side it It) the rock im-
mediately under the southern end of Wilson's Arch, and also by a gallery
driven south along Course / from the shaft, 27 feet above the rock. A
shaft also was sunk in one of the vaults for a depth of i 7 feet, at a point
18 feet south of the soullurn entrance to the Pool, 'i'he object of these
researches was to e.xamine the wall, in order to ascertain whether there
was a second gateway similar to the Suburban Gate (Prophet's Gateway),
south of the Pool al Purak. No signs of any such gateway could here
be found, but subsequently a gateway was found to the north of the Pool,
near Bab el Mathara.

It was clearly ilemonstrated by these excavations that there was no
break in the continuity of the wall from the Wailing Place to the northern
end of the Pool.

There are twenty courses of drafted stones south of Wilson's Arch,
exclusive of the foundation-stone. They vary in height from 3 feet

3 inches to 4 feet i inch, and each course sets back from i to
25 inches. The foundation course at this point is 2 feet 10 inches high,
sets out 6 inches, and has no draft. The top drafts vary from 2.^ to
5 inches, the bottom from 2\ to 4 inches, and the side drafts from 2} to

4 inches. The stones exposed are similar to, but in a much better state
of preservation than, those at the Wailing Place. The wall, when first
Ijuilt, appears to have been exposed to view from the bottom, and is
probably one of the oldest portions of the Sanctuary now in existence.
Course D, level with the concrete forming the bed of the Pool al Burak,
has been cut away to the depth of iS inches, ajiparently to receive the
skewback of an arch.

Course / is very rough, M and N are nicely worked and preserved,
while O is much worn. From the manner in which stones well preserved
and those much worn, even as far a:; the foundation, are mingled together,
it is evident either that the whole wall is a reconstruction from the bottom,
cr else that it has been exposed to view from the bottom, the stones much

JERUSALEM. i9S

worn being of vialaki, and those well preserved being of 7nczzeJi. The
highest course reaches up to level 2,412 feet, while the lowest {O) is
bedded in the rock at a level of 2,337 ^^^t. The soft rock is cut away to
a depth of 2 feet 9 inches, in order to allow of the foundation resting on
hard mezzeh. There is thus a height of 75 feet from the top of the highest
course of drafted stones in the Sanctuary wall at this point to the bed of
the foundation course. The top of the highest course is nearly on a
level with the crown of Wilson's Arch, and is 7 feet below the level of
the Street of the Chain above.

Wilson's Arch.

The Mahkama, or Court House (possibly the site of the Council
House of Josephus), is a large building measuring about 90 feet from north
to south and 80 feet from east to west. It rests upon the vaults already
alluded to. To the north of the Mahkama, supporting the roadway and
a shop wall, is the trimmer arch referred to before (p. 193), about 8 feet
across, and immediately to the north of this is Wilson's Arch, 42 feet in
span and 43 feet in breadth, stretching from the Great Causeway to the
wall of the Sanctuary. The road over the arch leads to the two gates
of the Sanctuary, Bab as Salam (Peace), and Bab as Silsile (Chain), at
a height of about 80 feet above the rock.

This arch covers the greater portion of the Pool al Burak, which was
first discovered by Dr. Tobler, and is shown by De Vogue in the ' Temple
de Jerusalem,' Plate I. ; but Colonel Wilson appears to have been the first
to have drawn particular attention to its importance during the visit to
Jerusalem in 1S64. The arch is twice mentioned in ' La Citez de
Iherusalem,' in Chapter HI.: 'A main senestre sur le pont avoit un
mostier de S. Gille,' and again in Chapter XVI. : ' La rue a main senestre
si va droit a unde posterne, c'on apele la posterne de la tanerie, e va
droit par desos le pont ' (' Descriptiones Terrse Sanctee, by Titus
Tobler). From this and from other accounts it is apparent that the
street from the Damascus Gate to tht; Dung Gate passed under Wilson's
Arch in the Middle Ages.

Wilson's Arch has 23 courses of stones of varying dimensions, as
will be .seen by reference to the elevation (Plate XXXIII.); and the

25—2

196

THE SIR\TA- OF WESTERX PALESTINE.

voussoirs aro not of 1 qual iliickness, as is the case with the more ancient
arches to the west. They are from 7 to 12 feet in length, and have no
appearance of any marginal draft on them. There is very little simi-
larity between this arch and that at the south-west angle (Robinson's).
The spring of Wilson's Arch is at level of 2,391 "5 feet, whereas that of
Robinson's is at 2,387-5. Thi; three fn-st stones of the arch appear to
form part of ilie Sanctuary wall ; but this is not quite ascertained. It
is sucrcfcsted that this arch as it now stands cannot be (earlier tlian the

fifth or sixth century. Colonel Wilson suggests that it was ' rebuilt in
its present form by Constantine or Justinian'; but its reconstruction
should more probably be ascribed to a still later date.

The western pier was examined by a shaft sunk at 7 feet from the
southern end of the arch. It consists of two walls — that to the east 10 feet
thick, and that to the west 4 feet thick — of different kinds of masonry.
At the point where the walls were examined there was a space of 6 inches
between them, which probably increased towards the north, in which

JERUSALEM. i97

direction the walls splay outwards about 12 Inches. The total thickness
of the pier at the point examined was 14 feet 6 inches.

The east face of the pier (10 feet thick), for 25 feet down from the
springing of the arch, is built of large, .squared, well-dressed stones without
marginal drafts, and similar to those to be found above the drafted stones
in the Wailing Place. There are seven courses of these stones, and they
vary from 3 feet i inch to 4 feet 2 inches in height. In the three lower
courses there is a recess 6 feet wide, 9 feet 5 inches high, and 5 feet deep,
the lintel being 4 feet 2 inches in height. The sides of the recess are well
dressed. Some q-roovcs cut in the stonework of the recess would indicate
that there was here, at one period, a metal gate.

A hole was with great difficulty broken through the pier, disclosing Its
double nature. On the western side, the 4-feet pier was found to be built
of rubble masonry, and to have a recess 2 feet 9 inches deep, 5 feet
6 inches wide, and 5 feet high, the top of which Is nearly level with the
bottom of the Pool al Burak. This double pier rests upon a solid pier
14 feet 6 inches thick, constructed of rough hammer-dressed boulders of
large size. On the east side It extends 19 feet 3 inches, down to the rock
on level 2,347-25 feet. The interstices were filled up with lime, but it
would be impossible to say whether It was once mortar, or caused by
more recent infiltration of lime-water.

In consequence of the southern section of the Pool having been made
in 1866 into a tank, there was no possibility, without danger, of examining
the pier to the north, in order to see whether any portion of it was of
ancient date.

The general impression gained from the examination of this work is
that the older portion of the pier of Wilson's Arch was not built until the
epoch when the squared stones without marginal drafts were laid on the
Sanctuary wall, when the \'alley had filled up about 30 feet, to a level of
2,366'5 feet, possibly In the second or third century ; but Wilson's Arch itself
appears to be even of a later date than the pier, as there Is a mass of
broken drafted stone, and apparently of fallen voussoirs, reaching from
the recess In the pier to level 2,367 feet 5 inches at the Sanctuary wall.

198 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Gexf.ral Notes, West Wall.

A shaft was commenced at the south end of Wilson's Arch, alongside
the Sanctuary wall, on the 20th November, 1867. The level of the
bottom of the Pool is 2,388. The shaft was sunk through 3 feet 6 inches
of concrete, formed of stones about 3 inches cube, set in a hard dark
cement, nearly as solid as masonry. Below this there is black soil,
mi.xed with stones and chippings, to a depth of 21 feet below the level of
the Pool, when a mass of very large stones was encountered, apparently
the \-oussoirs and drafted stones of a fallen wall and arch. These stones
continue for a depth of 8 feet, are of hard missce, and appear to be similar
ti) the drafted stones in the wall above. A similar mass of stones was
met with in the opposite shaft, alongside the pier, but it is not certain that
they extend across from pier to wall. Water was found at 44 feet below
the springing of the Arch ; but after a heavy rain it subsided, and the
shaft was continued down to level 2, 339*5 feet to the rock, through black
soil and large stones.

At a depth of 2 1 feet below the bottom of the Pool a gallery was
driven in to south along ilie Sanctuary wall, in search of any appearance
of a suburban gate. At 23 feet from the south end of Wilson's Arch, and
about 27 feet above the rock, the top of a wall was met with, abutting into
the Sanctuary wall, of well-dressed stones about 2 feet square. From
the top of this wall for a distance of 1 i feet, to a wall immediately below
the south wall of the Pool el Burak, a pavement was found on a level with
the entrance to Barclay's Gate. This pavement may have been in con-
nection with those found at the Prophet's (I'arclaj's) Gate and at the
south-west angle.

It has been suggested that the ground on which the lallen voussoirs
and drafted stones were found must have been rough and unlevelled, but
there is nothing to indicate this. It is possible that in sinking the shaft a
pavement may have been passed through without its having been ob-
served, as a single mining-frame would have covered it up.

A shaft was also sunk on the east side of the pier of Wilson's Arch,
about 7 feet from the .southern end, and at about 18 feet from the bottom
of the Pool the mass of drafted stones was met with, 3 feet higher than
on the eastern side of the arch. Prom hen- down to the rock was a

JERUSALEM. 199

mass of rough stones mixed with black earth, very difficult to work
through.

The Vallev.

A gallery was then driven across the valley through red mud and large
rough stones, and at the eastern end, about 3 feet above the rock, was
found the appearance of a rough concrete pavement.

The rock under the western pier of Wilson's Arch is 10 feet higher
than under the Noble Sanctuary, and the lowest point in the valley is
about 16 feet west of the latter.

The gallery was constantly flooded with water, to the great inconveni-
ence and danger of the workmen, especially after heavy rains. When the
works commenced under Wilson's Arch, the water was constantly about
10 to 12 feet above the rock; but during a heavy rain it suddenly fell
about 8 or 10 feet, and afterwards rose only at uncertain periods. It
seems probable that the opening of the aqueducts under Robinson's Arch
may have allowed an exit to the pent-up waters. The water has the
peculiar flavour of the Hammam ash Shafa and of the Virgin's Fount,
and the soil, for 8 to 10 feet above the rock, is full of limestone crystals.

The Causeway Vaults.

These vaults, discovered in January, 1868, during the progress of the
excavation, are of so complicated a nature that their description is a matter
of difficulty. They lie to the west of Wilson's Arch, and form the con-
tinuation of the causeway, under the Street of the Chain. They are totally
distinct in appearance from the vaults of the IMahkama, which latter have
pointed arches, and appear to have been built at a comparatively recent
period. A closed window in the second chamber of the northern
row of the Mahkama vaults was broken through in January, 1868, and the
causeway vaults were discovered.

The opening led into a space covered over by a trimmer arch immedi-
ately under the Street of the Chain, and the vaults lie to the north of this
street and immediately to the west of Wilson's Arch. They consist of two
parallel rows of vaults, and a long passage or tunnel running along under

100 THE SURVr.Y OF WESTER.y PALESTINE.

the street, which will be called the ' Secret Passage :' these parallel vaults
lie to the north of the Secret Passage, and are broken iqi by more recent
work, ajjparently Saracenic, and also are wanting in one i)ortion, where
there is a very ancient chamber of drafted stones, a ])(jrlioii of which
held been removed to make room for the vaults.

Tiiic Anciknt llAii, (PiATKs XXXI II., XXXV. .\M. XXXVI.).

As this ancient chamber e.xisted before the vaults and the causeway
were constructed, it will be first described. It lies about 27 degrees west
of north, and 8 feet of its southern end is under the Street of the Chain;
its south-eastern corner is about 84 feet from the Sanctuary wall. It is
at present 30 feet 8 inches from north to south, and 23 feet from east to
west, but 10 feet 4 inches has been added on to its southern end, so that it
originally was but 20 feet 4 inches from north to south. This additional
portion has apparently been made for the Secret Passage to pass over.
It has been used as a cistern, and its walls could only be seen when the
plaster was broken away. The pavement is at a level of 2,371-5 feet,
about 2 feel above the pavement under the Pool al Ikirak, and at the
Prophet's (ist sulnirban) Gate. The walls are 18 feet in height, and of
very ancient appearance. The crowning arch of the hall is semicircular,
with 21 voussoirs, but not as old as the walls; the arch to the south
is still more recent, and, to cover the junction, a column was raised in
the centre under the break, and two pointed relieving arches thrown over
from the column to the sides, the span of each being about 10 feet. This
column, with pari of the relieving arches, has since fallen, exposing the
junction of the arches. The chamber was filled up with silt to a depth
of about 15 feet 6 inches. Al the southern end of the chamber is a break
in the wall leadinir into one of the vaults of the Mahkama.

The walls of the Hall are 4 feet thick, and the stones are on the c.\-
terior similar to those of the Wailing Place, with marginal drafts ; in the
interior the faces of the stones are plain dressed, extremely well-jointed,
looking as if laid without mortar, and at each angle there are pilasters,
projecting about 2 inches. These pilasters have Ionic capitals of peculiar
shape, the volute being something similar to that on one of the capitals
found at Hyrcanus' Palace, at Arak el Emir.

JERUSALEM. 201

At the original south-east angle of the chamber on the east side is a
double entrance, with lintels, on which, as well as upon the jambs, there
are traces of ornament.

The gateway was opened out, but a mass of fallen masonry was found
in front of it, and the outer walls could not be examined without endanger-
ing the buildings above.

In the centre of the chamber a shaft was sunk, 15 feet 6 inches to the
pavement, and then through rough masonry to a further depth of 1 1 feet
6 inches, without finding rock. This masonry was as hard as a solid
wall.

The Ancient Hall has all the appearance of being one of the oldest
buildings in Jerusalem.

Between the Ancient Hall and the southern portion of Wilson's Arch
there is but one vault, 23 feet 6 inches wide, with a span of 22 feet ; its
springing is at about 2,402 feet, and its Boor at 2,398 ; its crown is a little
lower than that of Wilson's Arch ; it has 19 courses of stones, all of the
same size, and is apparently Roman work. Below this vault there is
another of similar description, nearly choked up with rubbish. Below the
spring of the lower arch is the recess in the pier, already alluded to when
speaking of the pier of Wilson's Arch. In the rubbish below some com-

202 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

plicated aqueducts were found, which arc cut asunder by the Mahkama
buildings; they probably were in connection with the aqueduct running
under Robinson's Arch.

To the north of the Ancient Hall and of the vault just described
is a series of vaults running somewhat to the south of west from the
northern portion of the pier of Wilson's Arch. These are also vault upon
vault, and can be examined below ; but the vaults above, with one excep-
tion, are covered over with some water-passages of later date. These
vaults are 21 feet wide, and about 14 feet span ; they have semicircular
arches, of from 13 to 15 courses each. These two sets of viaducts arc
thus 44 feet 6 inches wide, rather more than the width of Wilson's Arch.
The continuity of the southern viaduct, as has been already stated, is
broken by the 'Ancient Hall,' and west of this it is replaced by the
' Secret Passage ' already alluded to.

The northern viaduct extends from these arches in the same direction
as that to the south ; it then trends somewhat more southerly, and runs
north of and parallel to the Street of the Chain and the Secret Passage.
Between it and the Secret Passage is another series of vaults, about 16
feet wide, with thick piers. These vaults, when examined, were full of
sewage and water, and could only be sketched.

The most easterly vault of the northern viaduct has a span of 13 feet;
its arch is semicircular, with 1 5 stones ; its flooring is on a level with that
to the south (namely 2,398). Below it is a similar vault, the crown of the
arch of which is on a level with the crown of the Ancient Hall. In this
chamber are some curious aqueducts, which communicate by a shaft with
the aqueduct at a lower level found when breaking through the pier of
Wilson's Arch. The two vaults of the northern viaduct to the west are
covered over with some building of later date- — small passages with
pointed arches, connected with the supply of water to the buildings above.
There are draw-well openings in the roof, and the marks on the sides
caused by the rope of the bucket. These passages arc choked up with
rubbish at their ends. The vaults of the northern viaduct average 18 feet
from north to south, and 14 feet span, with piers of about 7 feet 6 inches
thickness ; the vaults of the southern viaduct are about 16 feet from north
to south, and 1 1 feet from east to west, with piers about i 2 feet thick, the
arches opening into the Secret Passage. Between the two eastern

JERUSALEM. 203

chambers of the southern viaduct is a vault at a lower level ; the floor
at the level, 2,390, runs east and west, in it there is a shaft to the depth
of 14 feet, and from it an aqueduct running- in a south-easterly direction,
and cut off by the later buildings of the Mahkama.

Secret Passage.

This passage is mentioned by Mejr ed Din, who, in speaking of the
Street of David, states that it is ' so named from a subterranean
gallery which David caused to be made from the Gate of the Chain to
the Citadel called the Mihrab of David. It still exists, and parts of it are
occasionally discovered. It is all solidly vaulted.'

The Gate of the Chain (Bab as Silsile) lies immediately over the Pool
al Burak, and the Street of the Chain (Tarik Bab as Silsile) runs west
towards the Citadel or Tower of David, and along the western prolonga-
tion is called the Street of David. It is certain, therefore, that the sub-
terranean gallery referred to by Mejr ed Din should lie somewhere under
the present Street of the Chain.

For the first iio feet from the Sanctuary wall this passage has dis-
appeared, having made way for the more recent vaults at the Mahkama ;
but for a distance of 150 feet, that is to say, up to a distance of 260 feet
from the Sanctuary wall, it has been discovered to be still in existence, a
portion of it being used as a sewer, and other portions as tanks for
water.

This passage has no appearance of great antiquity about it : it appears
to be Roman of a late date. It has been suggested that its western
entrance is probably that noticed in the ditch of the Citadel ; but on the
other hand, its entrance may be at the so-called Gennath Gate. As it has
only at present been traced one-seventh of the whole distance from the
Gate of the Chain to the Citadel, it would be hazardous to speculate with
too much certainty on its having connected the Citadel with the Temple ;
but it may be mentioned that there is a general impression among the
inhabitants of the buildings about this line at the present day, that such a
passage runs through under their houses, and that it has been divided
into tanks and receptacles for sewage. It is possible that it may yet prove
to have been a water-channel only. This passage is from 8 to 12 feet in

26 — 2

204 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

widtli, and is covered by a semicircular arch of cut stone ; it is nearly
choked up with sewage, so that it could only be examined with great
difficulty at certain points. At its eastern extremity its floor-line is
about on level 2,400 feet ; the walls are about 8 feet in height ; and the
crown of the arch is about 8 feet below the level (2,419 feet) of the
street above.

At the western extremity, 260 feet from the Sanctuary wall, the passage
appears only to be aboi.it S feet wide ; its floor is on the same level of
2,400, and ihi: crown of its arch is about 8 feet below the level (2,422) of the
street above. Above the crown of this arch probably runs the aqueduct
from the Pools of Solomon.

This Secret Passage, at its eastern extremity (about i 10 feet from the
Sanctuary wall), is suddenly broken, the end being filled up with rubbish
from above. If it ever continued to the Sanctuary wall, it would have
passed over the southern and newer portion of the arch over the Ancient
Hall, and along the trimmer arch to the south of the causeway vaults,
and south of Wilson's Arch. There is an appearance of a break in the
Sanctuary wall to the south of Wilson's Arch, by which the entrance may
have been effected.

Westwards this passage runs almost immediately under the Street of
the Chain. At first it is about 12 feet broad, but it gradually narrows to
8 feet in width. The arch is semicircular, of w^hitc viezzeli. On the north
are to be seen the entrances to the vaults already mentioned, which form
the causeway, and to the south is a door or opening.

At about 205 feet from the Sanctuary wall the passage was blocked
up with a thin masonry wall, and there was here a drop of 6 feet to the
bottom of the passage. The passage terminated at 220 feet in a solid
wall to the west. The chamber or section thus cut off had a door to the
south, which opened into a donkey-stable built in the side of the
causeway.

The continuation of this Secret Passage was subsequently found to a
distance of 260 feet from the Sanctuary wall. A section of it is here used
as a tank, about iS feet in length, and the breadth is about 8 feet.

The plan of this passage was not completed before the vaults leadino-
to it were closed up by order of the Pacha, but it is probable that there is
not likely to be any great error in the sketch-plan given on Plate XXXV.

JERUSALEM.

205

It may be supposed that the Secret Passage should run immediately under
the roadway of the Bab as Silsile, but this is merely a matter of conjecture ;
and as it is known that there is a slight error in the ground-plan of the
city at this part, no correction of the underground plan can profitably be
made until that on the surface is examined, even on the supposition that
one lies over the other.

It appears, however, improbable that the modern houses of the
Moslems should necessarily follow the lines of a passage of the existence
of which they are uncertain. It is also doubtful, however, whether the
causeway and Secret Passage may not be of comparatively recent date, as
is indicated by the discovery of an arched gateway or city postern nearly
immediately below it.

Postern of anxient City Wall.

Close to the last section of the Secret Passage, at 250 feet from the
Sanctuary wall, was found a vaulted chamber of peculiar shape, the crown
of which was about 13 feet 6 inches below the bottom of the Secret

Passage. It had the appearance of having originally been a postern in
the city wall, leading out eastwards ; but if so, it must have been before
the causeway was constructed.

In the vault leading to the cistern, or portion of the Secret Passage at
250 feet from the Sanctuary wall (see Plate XXXV.), is the mouth of a
narrow .shaft, at a level of 2,412 feet. At a depth of 25 feet this shaft
opens into the crown of a vaulted chamber running nearly east and west,
its western side on the plan being about 5 feet from the southern side of
the Secret Passage.

2o6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

This chamber is 14 feet 6 inches in length, 8 feet broad at its western
end, and 10 feet 6 inches broad at its eastern end. It is plastered. The
roof is peculiar : it is a ' straight-sided,' pointed arch, the rise at the widest
part being only 2 feet. It was nearly full of rubbish. A doorway, built
up, was found leading into another vaulted chamber lying east and west,
18 feet long, and, like the first chamber, wider at its eastern extremity
than at its western — 12 feet wide to east, and 13 feet 9 inches wide to
west. There was no plaster about this chamber. The arch appeared to
be semicircular, of nineteen courses of nearly equal size.

At the eastern end is a doorway 5 foot wide, with a lintel 12 feet
4 inches in length, ami i foot 10 inches in height, and a semicircular re-
lieving arch of 5 feet span. Beyond this doorway is a passage 2 feet
6 inches wide, and covered over with blocks of stone laid horizontally.
At 10 feet to east this passage is closed by fallen masonry. The
entrance between these two chambers is 4 feet 6 inches wide, and is
covered by a lintel i foot 9 inches in height, with a segmental relieving
arch.

A hole was made 4 feet to west of the western chamber, but no con-
tinuation could be found, and it is possible that this may be a more recent
addition to the eastern chamber. A broken volute of an Ionic capital was
found in the eastern chamber.

It has been suggested that these chambers may be the vestibule or
guard-room to the postern of the city wall. Nothing similar to the eastern
chamber has been found about Jerusalem.

Anxient Crrv \V.\ll.

Although the complicated nature of the causeway vaults makes it
extremely hazardous to offer any conjectures as to the date when any
portion was built, yet there is one conclusion at which all theorists appear
to have arrived, viz., that the first city wall mentioned by Josephus lies
along the northern edge of these vaults.

Josephus states (B. J. v. 4. 2) that the first wall 'began on the north
at the tower called Hippicus, and extended as far as the Xystus, a place
so-called, and then joining to the Council House, ended at the west
cloister of the Temple.' Colonel Wilson says : 'It is almost certain that

JERUSALEM. 207

this wall crossed the deep ravine running down from the Damascus Gate
at Wilson's Arch.'

It would thus join the Sanctuary wall about 650 feet from the south-
west angle ; and as it joined the zvest cloister of the Temple, the north-west
angle of the Temple cloister must be looked for at least at some distance
to the north of the Pool al Burak and Wilson's Arch.

There is nothing at present known to bear out the suggestion that at
the building of the second wall the first wall was pierced for through com-
munication towards Siloam. All that is known is that after the Roman
period, during the Middle Ages, such a passage existed.

The west pier of Wilson's Arch and the voussoirs are essentially
Byzantine in their appearance, and quite distinct from the arches and
vaults more to the west. Until there is a correct ground-plan of the
buildings on the surface and of those beneath on a large scale, it will be
premature to do more than make the faintest suggestions as to the original
construction of the vaults and their precise object.

Possible Nature of the Causew.w.

Assuming that the northern side of the vaults defines the position of
the first wall, the question arises whether these vaults are of the same age
as this supposed wall (which is known to have been built in the Maccabaean
period), or whether they are of more recent construction. There is nothing
in their construction which will warrant any closer identification than that
they are Roman, and as such may be attributed to any period from the
Roman procurators to Justinian.

The Ancient Hall alone can be considered of ancient type, and is of
the same date, apparently, as the Sanctuary wall. If the Sanctuary wall
is Herodian, then this Ancient Hall is probably Herodian also, and the
Secret Passage and causeway vaults are comparatively modern, and
Wilson's Arch is of so late a date that it affords no interest to those whose
study is the topography of the Bible. But if it be admitted that the
Sanctuary wall at the Pool al Burak is of the time of Solomon or of the
Jewish kings, then there is a possibility of the Secret Passage and causeway
vaults being as old as the time of Herod.

The following conjectures are put forward with much difiidence :

2o8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERX PALESTIXE.

During the time of Solomon or of the Jewish kings, the present
Sanctuary wall at the Pool al Burak was constructed from the bottom of
the valley, at which time there were only a few feet of red or virgin soil
in the valley. The Ancient Hall was at the same time built, and was the
Council House. It is to be noted that the floor of this Hall is 30 feet
above the rock at the Noble Sanctuary ; it may therefore have been
constructed after the valley had commenced to fill uj). In the time of
the Maccabees the city wall was built, called the birst Wall by
Josephus.

Portions of this wall have been found on the northern side of the
Upper City, south of the Muristan.

Either at the building of the w^all or at some subsequent period
a causeway was constructed along its southern side to join the Temple
to the Upper City. Probably this was done when Akra was cut
down.

Whether the present causeway vaults were built at this period or not
can only be a matter of conjecture. When this causeway was built there
was possibly a series of vaults, reaching u]) to the Sanctuary wall over
the space now occupied by Wilson's Arch.

These causeway vaults are double, and run together east and west,
and do not appear to be of the same age or construction. One set must
be older than the other.

The northern viaduct appears to be more ancient. In after years this
viaduct appears to have been added to by the southern viaduct, making
up together a width of 44 feet 6 inches. At the same time the Secret
Passage was constructed. This may have taken place in the time of
Herod, or at a later period.

This Secret Passage passed over the new arch over the Ancient Hall,
and probably was connected with the arch spanning the southern portion of
the Pool al Burak, which has all the appearance of being more ancient
than Wilson's Arch.

At the time of Constantine, when the present Holy Sepulchre was
taken within the city walls, there was no object in keeping up the old
First Wall at this point, as it had been broken down in other parts.
Therefore a roadway was made along the Sanctuary wall at a level
2,366 feet, spanned by an arch 42 feet in width. Whether this was done

JERUSALEM. 209

during the reign of Constantino or later must remain a matter of con-
jecture.

After the destruction of the arch, the present (Wilson's) arch was
constructed about the fifth or sixth century.

The existence of the City Postern, with its semicircular and segmental
relieving arches, so far down below the Secret Passage, is itself a strong
indication that the latter is of comparatively modern origin.

Twin Tunnel beneath the Convent of the Sisters of Zion.

These souterrains occupy the space or ditch cut out of the solid rock
along the ridge or backbone which once united Bezetha with the high rock
at the north-west angle of the Sanctuary (probably the Antonia). This
ridge runs from north-north-west to south-south-east, and the souterrains
follow this line. They are inclined at about 111° to west of the northern
side of the Sanctuary. The south-west angle of the west souterrain is
100 feet from the north-west angle of the Sanctuary, and the western side
of this souterrain, if produced, will cut the Sakhra near its north-west
corner.

The western souterrain was discovered when the convent was built, and
was described by Captain Wilson. The passage leading to the Sanctuary
was discovered and examined by Lieutenant Warren. The eastern
souterrain was first examined by INI. Ganneau and Lieutenant Warren.
The souterrains were cleared out in 1S72 by Joseph Effendi, and a plan
made by M. Schick and Dr. Chaplin, when the lower portion of an
ancient wall was discovered ; and finally, the upper portion of the wall was
described by Lieutenant Conder.

These souterrains are parallel tunnels about 20 feet broad, and separated
by a pier 5 feet 9 inches broad, and reaching, at the southern and northern
ends, to the rock escarp and counterscarp. The souterrains appear to
have been covered at different periods. The portion of them for about
80 feet to the south appears to be of different construction to that to the
north : the arches differ, the width differs, and there is no rock visible on
the east of the southern half.

M, Ganneau, however, states that he has ascertained, ' by sight and

2 10 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN J'ALESTEXE.

touch, the existence of the rock, cut vertically along nearly the whole
perimeter of the parallelogram' ('Quarterly Statement,' 1871, p. 106).

The Souterrain No. i, from scarp to counterscarp, measures about
165 feet. It is entered by a flight of steps at the northern end, leading
down from the kitchen of the convent. The counterscarp is here about
40 feet high, reaching from 2,417 feet to 2,457 feet. The floor of the
souterrain falls considerably (18 feet) in its length to south, until at the foot
of the scarp it reaches 2,399 feet. The scarp is here about 57 feet high,
reaching up to 2,456 feet. The souterrains do not run straight through,
but have a slight bend to the south at about 85 feet. The western side
has a rock scarp from 13 to 24 feet in height. The eastern side, of
masonry, is pierced with four arched openings leading into No. 2.

The arch is semicircular, of plain chiselled stone, except from 52 to
72 feet from the south end, where it has been rei^laced by a pointed arch.
The springing has a gradual fall to the south of 6 feet. There are flights
of steps at either end leading to the surface, which appear to be of the
same age as the covering arch.

Souterrain No. 2 is 127 feet long, and from 20 to 26 feet across, and is
terminated at the south by the same escarp that terminates No. i. To
the north it does not run so far as No. i, and is terminated by a masonry
wall of later date blocking up the tunnel.

At the northern end the width is 20 feet for 45 feet, and is cov-cred
over by a semicircular arch of thirty-one courses. At 45 feet the souterrain
widens to 24 feet, and the arch has a slope to the south of 1 in 6 ; but the
crown of the arch appears to remain horizontal, as it increases its span
throughout its length of 36^ feet. For the remaining 46 feet there is
another arch, whose crown is lower by 4 feet 6 inches.

These two latter arches are nearly semicircular, but appear to be
slightly pointed. The springing of the arch to the east appears to be on
the rock.

The pier between these two souterrains is pierced by four openings,
each about 10 feet wide.

Water was brought from the north into Souterrain No. i by means of
an aqueduct, which still exists, and will be described later.

JERUSALEAI. 211

ROCK-JIEWN PaSSAGF.

From the south-west corner of Soutcrrain No. i is a rock-hewn passage
or aqueduct about 4 feet wide, running nearly due south along the western
side of the Sanctuary wall, apparently to Tank 22.

At about 16 feet from the entrance it trends to the west for 6 feet, and
then pursues its course to the south for about 60 feet. There is a dam
10 feet high, which is provided with a sluice for letting off the water when
necessary.

At about 150 feet from the dam is the passage to the east, leading to
the chamber in which is the ancient masonry with pilasters ; and a few
feet further the aqueduct turns sharp round to the cast, and meets the
masonry of the Sanctuary under Bab es Serai.

The aqueduct is rock-hewn as far as 200 feet from the pool, opposite
to the small passage, and is covered with slabs and columns. At the
entrance the roof reaches up to about 2,452 feet, or about 30 feet above
the level of the water held up in the dam. Beyond the dam it slopes
down to 22 feet, and eventually to S feet.

South of the passage the rock runs out, and only appears in the lower
portion to a height of two or three feet, the passage being of masonry
with an arched covering. The level of the bottom of the aqueduct near
its south end is 2,406. The rock has here a level of 2,409.

There are several shafts leading down through the crown of the
aqueduct arch for the purpose of obtaining water.

Above the covering arch is a handsome stone pavement of great
thickness and solidity, which extends as far as the Eccc Homo Arch.
M. Ganneau believes it to be of the time of Hadrian.

From the scarp at the north-west angle of the Sanctuary to the scarp
visible at the south end of the Twin Pools, measures about 100 feet of
solid rock.

In cutting the northern ditch of the Antonia, the aqueduct which
comes from near the Damascus Gate was apparently cut through, and
again when building the ancient west wall of the Sanctuary.

It is possible that the space where there is water running between the
Bab es Serai and Bab en Nazir, may be the hollow space within the two
mentioned by Josephus ; but our knowledge of the ground is yet too

-'2 THE SURVEY OF WESTERX J'ALESriNE.

imperfect to admit of anything more than mere speculation. The two
souterrains arc probably the Twin Pools, identified by Euscbius and the
Bordeaux Pilgrim with Bcthesda, and M. Ganneau identified this site
with the pool Strouthion, mentioned by Josephus (B. J. v. ii, 4) in his
description of the attack on the Antonia by Tilus. He thinks that
during the period of A'Xva Capitolina the pool was closed up, and the
fine stone pavement above was laid, and that the Ecce Homo Arch is of
the same date, built as a triumphal arch to celebrate the victory over
Bar Cochebas ('Quarterly Statement,' 1871, p. 106).

The bottom of the aqueduct appears to have been plastered, and there
is a small water channel in it which may have been used when the water
became low. There are recesses which arc supposed to facilitate the
collection of water ; but this is doubtful.

Nortii-West Anglk of S.anxtu.vrv.

The rock appears on the surface in the interior of the Sanctuary,
immediately north of the Bab en Nazir, or 'Gate of the Inspector,' and
the levels of its surface gradually increase northwards into the corner of
the court. On the north side of the Sanctuary a rock scarp, facing south-
wards, runs east for 350 feet, with a maximum height of 32 feet. At the
east end its height is only about 20 feet, and under the north-west minaret
(of Kalawun) it is 30 feet ; the levels of the top being in the first instance
2,433, ^"<^1 iri the second 2,460. This scarp is the south face of the block
of rock on which the modern barracks arc built. The position of the
north face, or scarp, of the block is only known when it appears at the
south end of the Twin Pools ; and the cast scarp is also unknown, because
it is hidden by buildings.

I'^rom the internal corner of the .Sanctuary court, under the aliove-
noticed minaret, a scarp facing east runs past the Bab al Ghawanimeh
almost as far as the Bab es Serai. The level of this scarp decreases
rapidly as it extends southwards. At the point shown on the plan
(Plate XXXVH.) the scarp stops, and its top is here only 3 feet above
the level of the rock surface in the Sanctuary court, which is about 2,431
at this point. The scarp here turns west (as shown on the plan), and
runs as far as the rock-cut aqueduct from the Twin Pools. The foot of

JERUSALEM. 213

this part of the scarp, as visible in the aqueduct, has a level 2,409, so that
this scarp (which faces southwards) is at least 22 feet high. How much
further west it may run from the aqueduct could not be ascertained without
the destruction of masonry in the aqueduct ; but the known length of the
scarp in question is 37 feet. The result of these observations is, briefly,
that the great block of rock at the north-west angle of the Sanctuary is
L shaped, the one limb measuring 350 feet east and west, the other
120 feet north and south. The north and west sides of the block are
hidden by buildings, and it is not known what scarps may exist in these
directions.

The lower part of the Bab al Ghawanimeh consists of rock-cut jambs,
and there are steps at this gate descending into the Sanctuary from the
street outside, which is on a level 6 feet above the level (2,431) of the
Sanctuary court at this point.

Beneath the Bab es Serai an ancient wall is visible, where the aqueduct
from the Twin Pools stops after turning sharp round eastwards. This
wall was measured by Herr Schick in 1872, and in the next year
Lieutenant Conder discovered that the ancient masonry reaches up even
higher 'than the level (2,431) of the interior of the Sanctuary. Through
the roof of the aqueduct Lieutenant Conder gained access into a small
modern chamber, built against the Sanctuary wall, just north of the Bab
es Serai ; and here he found part of a wall of large drafted stones, with a
plinth course and two pilasters, like those in the Hebron Haram. The
space between the pilasters was occupied by a window, or opening into
the Sanctuary, which seems to be ancient, as the lintel and jambs are of
large ashlar — the former drafted.

This ancient wall is parallel with the west Sanctuary wall. It is 8 feet
thick, and its inner or east face appears to coincide with the line of the
outer face of the west Sanctuary wall where known further south. There
is thus clearly a set-back of 8 feet on plan at some point on the west side
of the Sanctuary walls, and although the exact point is unknown, it is
most probably at the Bab en Nazir, where the rock surface inside the
Sanctuary suddenly drops beneath the existing surface.

The ancient wall measured by Herr Schick presents one whole course
and parts of two others visible in the aqueduct. The whole course is
4 feet 6^ inches high. The courses set back 3 or 4 inches : the marginal

214

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

drafts are 6i inches wide at top and bottom of the stones, and 3 inches to
4 inches at the sides. They are about \ inch deep.

In the chamber above the aqueduct four courses of ancient masonry
were visible. The lowest of these was bevelled back between the pilasters
(as at Hebron), forming a plinth, and giving a. projection of i^ feet
to the pilasters. The southern pilaster is 4 feet g inches broad, the
northern (which is partly rock-cut) is only i .', feet wide ; the interval
between is 8 fcK;t 9 inches. The top of the plinth course has a level

of 2,431, or about equal to that of the surface of the ground inside the
Sanctuary.

The height of the courses visible in the chamber above the aqueduct
has not been recorded. It is probable that there are in all five
courses above the highest one seen in the aqueduct, as the plinth
course has its top 22 feet above the aqueduct, giving a height of 4 feet
6 inches for each of the unseen and unmeasured courses, almost exactly
the same as the height (4 feet 6^ inches) of the course seen in the
aqueduct.

As regards the probability of the plinth course here found having run
all round the walls of the Sanctuary, with pilasters at intervals, as at

JERUSALEM. 215

Hebron, it should be remarked that the ancient wall is never found as
high as this level (2,431) in any part save at the north-east angle of the
Sanctuary, where the ancient masonry remains in situ in the east face of
the tower (the so-called Tower of Antonia) up to a yet higher level (2,440).
There is therefore nothing to show whether the pilasters and plinth
existed on all sides, and they certainly did not exist in the face of the
north-east tower.

The Nortii-West Minaret.

The north wall of the Haram, near the east, forms the south wall
of the Birket Israil, and is at right angles to the east wall. Its
production westwards will be found to cut the production of the
west Sanctuary wall at the north-west angle of the north-west
minaret (called Kalawun's). The two lines meet at an angle of
about 85^ The minaret, which is on the highest part of the great
scarp already described, thus stands on the north-west angle of the
Sanctuary walls.

The commanding site on the top of the great rock scarp, which is
known to have been separated from the Bezetha hill by a trench, of which
the Twin Tunnel (next to be noticed) formed part, is generally recognised
as the site of the Antonia, and it is worthy of notice that in this case the
barracks, the old Serai (or Pasha's residence) and the military Governor's
house stand on the site of the Roman garrison and Governor's house.

Deductions : North-west Angle.

There are now known to be two ditches to the north-west and
south-east of the rocky knoll at the north-west angle, as shown on Plan.
These ditches are cut perpendicular to the backbone of the hill, running
from north-north-east to south-south-west.

The southern ditch can only be seen on the surface : it appears to be
160 feet wide (see section), and may be 20 feet deep. The northern
ditch is apparently 165 feet wide, and 30 feet deep, but is deepened to
57 feet opposite the highest point of the rock, where the souterrains now
stand. From ditch to ditch measures 3S0 feet. Between these two

2i6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

ditches the rock is low from the Biib en Nazir to Ikib cs Serai, and here
tiicrc may be cither a natural depression from the west or else a deep
ciittint^.

The counterscarp of the northern ditch is probably connected to the
west with the remarkable rock escarpment running west to the Austrian
Hospice (described later). The aqueduct which enters the ditch on north
at level 2,417 leaves it again at level about 2,420.

C. W.

TANKS INSIDE THE SANCTUARY.

The first twenty of these were planned by Captain (now Sir C.)
Wilson. The level of the rock was ascertained in them by Captain (now
Sir C.) Warren. A few additional notes were obtained by Lieutenant
Conder and Herr Schick. The numbers here given are the same as
those on the Ordnance Survey for all the tanks planned by Sir C. Wilson.

No. I. North of the Dome of the Rock, under the platform. It is
about 130 feet long north and south, and 24 feet wide and 30 feet deep
from the level of the surface of the platform. The lower 18 feet is cut in
rock, and a segmental arch forms the roof, consisting of small well-dressed
voussoirs with a narrow keystone and gradual widening of the other
voussoirs towards the haunches. The level of the rock surface is 2,427.
The tank is cemented throughout. The northern end is closed by a
massive wall, also cemented over the masonry, and the voussoirs appear
to run past this wall, which is not built square to the sides of the tank.
It appears, therefore, that the passage may continue further north behind
the present wall. The manhole in the roof, by which the tank is entered,
is at the south end, and the south side of the tank appears to consist
mainly of rock rudely hewn and cemented over. It has, however, been
conjectured that the tank may also originally have extended further
south.

No. 2. A large tank, about 60 feet by 50 feet, in the north-east part
of the platform. It was said by the sheikh of the mosque to communicate
with No. 34, but there is no indication of this. The rock surface is 2,429
at 6 feet from the surface of the platform. The total depth is 47^ feet.

No. 3. West of No. i. Consists of three chambers divided by piers.

2i8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The walls arc of rock, and slope outwards towards the floor. The narrow
top is roofed by a segmental tunnel vault, as in No. i. This tank has a
total depth of 32 feet from the surface of the platform. The rock surface
has a level 2.426 at 9 feet below the present surface. Towards the south
the tank is entirely roofed in rock. The two side chambers to the west
are divided off by a wall of inferior masonry, with low arched doorways.
The end of the main passage on the north is closed by a wall like that in
No. I. The interior is cemented over both rock and masonry. The
elliptical roof described in the northern part of this tank by Sir C. Wilson
is due to the way In which the rock is cut immediately beneath llie
segmental arch of the vaulting, as was observed in 1S74, when Lieutenant
Conder examined this and No. i tank by magnesium light. Sir C.
Warren suggested that No. 3 tank is the bath-house of the Temple
mentioned in the Talmud. The production of the main gallery of No. 3
cuts the production of the gallery of No. i, if both are produced north-
wards, just at the north wall of the platform, where the subterranean gate
Tadi appears most probably to have been j^jlaced, as shown on the: plan
(Plate VI.). The ground in this vicinity has a hollow sound. There are
two manholes in the roof of No. 3, and in November, 1867, a rock-cut
channel bringing surface water to the tank was examined. It runs north
and south, with small side ducts from the east and west.

No. 4. A small retort-shaped cistern with a long shaft. It is 37 feet
deep, the rock-surface being at 2,417, or iS feet below the present surface.
An ancient mouth in the shaft occurs 1 1 feet below the present surface.
This tank is beneath the platform west of the Dome of the Rock.

No. 5. In the south-east corner of the platform, has an entrance with
a flight of steps at its east end, ascending southwards to the surface out-
side the platform, and a manhole at its west end, down from the platform.
This tank is a long passage, with recesses on the north and another at its
west end running south. The main passage has a semicircular vaulted
roof, but the branch on the cast is cut entirely in rock. The floor is
48 feet below the platform surface. The rock surface is 2,425 at the west
end, and 2,408 at the entrance on the east, where are remains of a door.
The former level is 10 feet below the platform level; the latter level is
8 feet below the present surface of the Sanctuary. The modern name of
this tank appears to be B i r c r R u ni m a n e h, or ' The Well of the

JERUSALEM. 219

Pomegranate.' Sir C. Warren places the altar of the Temple over the
north-west end of No. 5 tank. According to Lieutenant Gender's plan,
the manhole at the north-west extremity would have been just outside the
' Water Gate ' of the Priest's Gourt.

It may be here noted that the Gell of Bostam, according to Mejr ed
Din, was under the platform on the east. A door, with a window to the
north of it and another to the south, is visible on the east wall of the
platform, north of No. 5 tank and south of the eastern steps. These
three apertures are now closed up, but the levels of the rock in No. 5
tank render it probable that the south-east part of the platform is supported
on vaulting. The Gell of Bostam was, however, already closed in the
time of Mejr ed Din. In 18S1 an attempt was made to obtain permission
to open this doorway and explore the unknown cells and vaults. This
was not only refused, but a large heap of earth was soon after piled in
front of the closed doorway by order of the architect of the mosque, com-
pletely hiding the platform wall on this side. The known levels of the
rock render it extremely important that the supposed vaults in this part
of the platform should, if possible, be explored in future.

No. 6. A tank T shaped on plan, east of el Kas, near the Great Sea.
(No. 8), between the Aksa and the platform. It is 41 feet deep. The
southern branch, which is 25 feet long, has its floor raised 4 feet 8 inches
above the rest of the tank. The cistern has the shape of a hollow
truncated pyramid above ; the roof is pardy of rock, partly of stone
slabs laid flat on the rock surface. The level of the rock surface is
2,410 feet 6 inches, and it is 5^ feet below the present surface of the
ground.

No. 7. Appears to be called el Bahr, or the 'Sea' (or lake). It
is east of the last, and 62 feet deep. The main part is a rock-cut chamber
with two entrances on the east, 6 feet above the general level of the floor
leading to a side chamber with lofty roof. On the south is a branch
running east, and in this four steps lead up to a flat platform. The roof
of the excavation is rock throughout, the general level being 2,411, or
5 feet below the present surface. This cistern has two mouths near each
other. A surface conduit is visible, entering the tank high up.

No. 8. Usually known as the ' Great Sea,' is called by the natives
B ir el As wad, or ' The Black Well.' It is a fine cavern with rocky

28—2

2 20 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

piers, reached from the south by a narrow staircase. It is 43 feet deep,
being partly roofed in rock and partly with flat stones. It is the largest
of all the Sanctuary tanks, and has numerous manholes from the surface,
three of which are in use. The floor, where visible (when the water is
low), consists of a sort of limestone shingle. The rock surface is at the
level 2,411, or 5 feet beneath the present surface. A conduit enters this
tank from the cast. On the north-east there is a small circular chamber.
The capacity of this tank is at least two million gallons.

No. 9. Called B i r el Warakah, or 'Well of the Leaf,' is under
the Aksa Mosque, south of the last. The general rock surface is about
2,400, though this has not been ascertained with exactitude. This tank
is 42 feet deep. There is a branch on the north and a central pillar
supports the roof, which is of rock. The name is due to a legend related
by Mejr ed Din, according to which, in the time of Omar, Sherik Ibn
Habashah, of the Beni Temim, let his bucket fall, and descended to
recover it. He found in the well an entrance to Paradise, and brought
back a leaf of the ' tree of life ' with him. An aqueduct leads from the
Well of the Leaf through the passage of the Double Gate under the
Aksa. Various ducts conveying surface drainage into the Well of the
Leaf were also found about 5 feet below the present surface of the
Sanctuary.

No. 10. East of the last, and on the west side of the passage from
the Triple Gateway. It is 30 feet deep, and is reached through a hole in
the wall of the passage just mentioned. It is now dry, and the manhole
in the roof (which is of rock) is closed. The rock has a surface at 2,387,
for 3 1 feet below the present surface of the Sanctuary over this tank,
which is a long passage leading in the direction of No. 9 and No. 32.
On the south-east it communicates with the rock-cut channels which run
under the Sanctuary wall below the Triple Gate.

No. 1 1. North of the last and of the old part of the passages from
the Triple Gate. It is 6i,\ feet deep, and consists of three tanks, each
about 26 feet by 40 feet, connected by a passage running north and south,
and 14 feet wide. The total contents arc about 700,000 gallons. The
roof is of rock cut out into arches. Steps on the west ascend to the
mouth of the tank, and west of these are foundations of a massive wall on
the rock. The passage from the Triple Gate is continued so as to run

JERUSALEM.

221

over this tank. The general rock surface is about 2,397, or 19 feet
beneath the present surface as determined on nth November, 1S67.

No. 12. East of the platform, and south of the next two, a rectangular
tank 44 feet deep. The roof is a semicircular vault. The rock which
appears on the present surface towards the north end of the tank has a
level 2,406.

No. 13. Immediately north of the last, is of irregular shape, 40 feet
deep and about 30 feet square. The sides are vertical, the roof is partly
domed in rock. A conduit for surface water from a small cistern 250 feet
further north comes in on the east side of No. 13. The rock on the
present surface has here a level of about 2,409.

No. 14. A pair of chambers 29 feet deep. They appear to be
natural caverns, which have been enlarged. The roof has a plain semi-
circular vaulting. The rock here appears on the present surface at a
level 2,409.

No. 15. North of the last and west of the Golden Gate. It is about
18 feet in diameter, and nearly circular. The depth is 35 feet, the whole
being cut in rock, with a roof also of rock. The rock surface is at a level
of 2,393, or 15 feet below the present surface.

Nos. 16 and 17. Near the Birket Israil. These two mouths lead to
a single quadrangular tank, entirely of masonry, with four large piers, froin
which groined vaults with pointed arches spring. The total length is
63 feet north and south, by 57 feet east and west. The inner face of the
wall on the north side is 23^ feet from the face of the Sanctuary wall,
which forms the south side of the Birket Israil. The arches, which
spring from the south faces of the two southern piers, appear to be either
continued beyond the present walls of the tanks, or are simply flying
buttresses. The remaining arches are stilted and pointed. The piers
and arches all differ from each other in dimensions. The crowns are
about 28 feet from the floor, and the springings 14 feet from the floor.
This tank was first visited in January, 1869, by Sir C. Warren, and again
by Lieutenant Conder, in 1874. Some large blocks have fallen into the
tank, some of which are 3 feet square and 7 feet long. The floor is
about 45 feet from the surface of the Sanctuary, which has here a level of
2,413. On the south wall of the tank is a staircase, which led down till
recently from the Sanctuary. A grating 2 feet square in the north wall

222 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

(visible from the Birkct Israil) lets light into the tank. In 1S74 part of
the vaulting was broken in, and the interior was therefore visible from
the surface of the Sanctuary, la general appearance this reservoir
resembles the Moslem work of the thirteenth century at Hebron,
Ramleh, etc., and there can be little reason to doubt that the reservoir
dates about the time when the Moslems repaired the Sanctuary after the
expulsion of the Crusading Christians. The arches have ribs of cut
stones, and the groined vaults between them are of rag-work, an arrange-
ment found in the later Crusading work, and in the Moslem buildings of
the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries.

No. 18. In the north-west part of the Sanctuary near the Bab es
Serai is a tank 10 feet by 7 feet and ■^']\ feet deep. The rock surface
has a level 2,414, or 4 feet below the present surface.

No. 19. (So numbered in the 'Ordnance Survey ' Notes.) Is part
of the passage from the Prophet's Gate (or so-called Barclay's Gate),
mentioned under that head.

No. 20. Tlie continuation of the same passage southwards. No rock
occurs in either of these two last. Their floors have a level 2,374.

No. 21. Ill the north-east portion of the Sanctuary, east of No. 18.
This is a tank 24 feet by 12 feet, and 21 feet deep. It is entirely built in
masonry, and no rock is visible.

No. 22. Near the Bab en Nazir, south of No. 18. This is a large
rock-cut reservoir with a domed roof of rock. It resembles the domical
caves at Beit Jibrin, and like them it has a rock-cut staircase running
round the wall. There are two manholes in the roof, both now closed.
The surface of the rock has a level 2,416, or 4 feet below the present
surface. It should te noted that the aqueduct from the Twin Pools may
have been originally cut to fill this tank, or No. 18, the floor of which is
16 feet below the level of the aqueduct channel, where it cuts the west
Sanctuary wall.

No. 23. North of the north-west corner of the platform. This is a
retort-shaped tank, 8 feet in diameter, and 35 feet deep. The rock
appears on the present surface at a level 2,429.

No. 24. On the platform north-west of the Dome of the Rock. This
is not properly speaking a tank at all, but a chamber, with its floor and
part of its east wall made of rock, and sinking below the level of the

JERUSALEM. 2^3

platform. The upper part of the chamber is of comparatively modern
masonry, and the place is used as a store. The interior was revisited by
Lieutenant Conder in 1872. The floor is of rough rock, falling west
wards at an angle of about 30", and the level near the east wall of the
chamber is 2,425. A rock scarp 7 feet 8 inches high is here visible,
running north and south between the masonry piers which support the
groined roof of the chamber. It is finely finished, and has a bearing 01
about 185°; the level of the top is 2,433, o'" about 2 feet below the
surface of the platform. The levels in No. 25 seem to indicate that this
scarp may continue rather further south. Further north the rock is
visible in the Kubbet el Arwah (at 2,435), '^'■'t is known to be about
2,426 on the west of the Kubbet, in the Kubbet el Khidr. If the plat-
form were removed a scarp might probably be found running north on
the line above noticed to an intersection with the north boundary of the
platform. On the south it probably does not extend very far, as the
contours of the rock clearly indicate. According to Captain Conder's
view this scarp may have been connected with the Soreg, or boundary,
dividing off the area of the Temple, which no Gentile might enter.

No. 25. South of the last, is 12 feet in diameter and 37 feet deep.
The rock appears at 2,416, or 20 feet from the surface.

No. 26. A small cistern west of No. 16. No rock is visible.

No. 27. A small cistern cut in the scarp on the north side of the
Sanctuary.

No. 28. This is outside the platform on the north-east. It appears
to be called Bir el H abash, or 'the Well of the Abyssinian.' It is
about 10 feet in diameter, and cut in rock. The level of the rock surface
is here 2,412, or 3 feet below the present surface. This cistern is just
north of the production of the rock scarp in No. 29, but its level is
important as showing that the scarp does not probably extend far east.

No. 29. This is not a tank, but a masonry chamber built under the
present surface against the north retaining wall of the platform. It was
discovered by Sir C. Warren in 1868, and thus described. An arched
passage 18 feet span runs east and west under the steps of the eastern
flight leading from the north wall of the platform. The vault is choked
at each end, the length visible being 65 feet. On the south are four deep
arcades between piers running back southwards to the line of the north

"4 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

wall of i!ic platform. The piers are partly of rock, partly of masonr)-,
built on north of the rock ; the bays are from 1 1 feet to 13 feet span, and
about 16 feet deep. The piers are 3?, feet thick. The backs of the bays
are formed by a scarp of rock, the level of the top of which is 2,420, or
I ; feet below the surface of the platform. The rock portions of the piers
project about 6 feet from this scarp. The crowns of the arches in these
vaults are only about 2 feet below the present surface outside the plat-
form, the rise from haunch to crown being 9.', feet. The vaulting of the
bays is groined into the vault of the main passage, which has a parabolic
section, while the bay arches are pointed. The whole of the voussoirs
are small, the stones being about 15 inches by 4 inches. There is no
appearance of rock on the north side of the vault, save in one place
(as marked), about the level 2,410. The masonry of the vault is in parts
of ashlar, large and small, in part of rubble. There are two recesses in
the masonry of the north wall as shown, 2 feet wide, 6 feet high, and
8 feet to the back, where they are choked. The ends of the bays above
the rock are filled in with coarse rubble. There is no cement or plaster
in the vault. The floor of the chamber is not of rock, and the rock scarp
may run down to some depth below it. Rock, however, occurs at the
level 2,412 further east, so that the floor of the vault is probably not very
far above the rock. The vault itself seems clearly to be Arab work not
earlier than the thirteenth century, built on to an ancient scarp, which,
according to Sir C. Warren's plan, is the northern limit of Herod's
Temple enclosure.

No. 30. This is the passage piercing the west wall of the Sanctuary
west of the Dome of the Rock. It corresponds to the passage (Nos. 19
and 20) from the so-called Barclay's Gate, and the two passages together
represent the two western or Parbar entrances to the Temple enclosure,
according to the plans of Sir C. Warren and of Captain Condcr. The
passage (No. 30) was first described by Sir C. Wilson in the ' Ordnance
Survey' notes. No rock occurs in this passage, now used as a tank with
two mouths. The sides and floor are cemented ; the length is 84 feet
cast and west, the breadth 18 feet north and south. It is 34.', feet deep,
and the bottom is at the level 2,390. A modern flight of steps leads
down into the passage. The roof is a round arch of well-dressed stones
without mortar.

JERUSALEM. 225

No. 31. Immediately outside tlie platform on the west is a small
cistern in a garden.

No. 32. A small tank in the Aksa Mosque, apparently connected
with No. 8.

No. 33. A small tank north of the Aksa Mosque, under the stairs
leading to the passage from the Double Gate.

No. 34. Is on the platform just south of No. 2. It is a rock-cut
cistern of irregular shape, about 60 feet in diameter. The surface of the
rock has a level 2,431. A passage from the north-east side of this tank
runs in 10 feet, and then appears to stop.

No. 35. Is close to the east end of the great scarp en the north side
of the Sanctuary. It is an ordinary cistern cut in rock.

No. 36. West of No. 6, which it resembles in plan ; it is cut entirely
in rock.

No. '^'j. Was examined by Herr Schick, a little west of No. 13.
The mouth is shown on the ' Ordnance Survey.' The excavation runs
west in the direction of No. 34, passing beneath the east wall of the
platform. The whole is cut in rock, which appears on the surface at the
level 2,420.

C. R. C.

EXCAVATIONS ON OPHEL.

The junction of the Opliel wall with that of the Sanctuary has already
been described in speakincj of the excavations at the South-East Angle.
South of the Sanctuary this wall was traced for a total distance of 800
feet, with results perhaps more important than any which have been
gained by exploration in Jerusalem.

More than fifty shafts were sunk by Sir C. Warren in various parts of
the spur, south of the Sanctuary, and the levels of the rock were
determined in no less than twenty places. These levels are of great
importance in connection with some of the more recent controversies, and
the more important are here given according to the shafts which are
shown on the Plans.

Shaft No.

XVI.

Rock Le\

,'el

2,280.

XXXI.

2,270.

XXXIV.

2,320.

XXXV.

2,25s.

XXXVI.

2,271.

XXXVIII.

2,303.

South of the wall the rock was traced along the crest of the spur as
far as the point where Doctor Guthe afterwards excavated. Three shafts
on this line give levels 2,274, 2,270, 2,264, showing a gradual and steady
fall of the crest southv/ards. The observations of the rock on the
surface further south, and in the passage and shaft from the Virgin's
P'ountain, agree with the above-mentioned levels, and allow of the
contours of the spur being traced with confidence. The conformation of

JERUSALEM. 227

the rock is similar to that of the present surface, showing a narrow spur
sinking gradually in the direction of the Pool of Siloam,

The application of the name Ophel on this spur is a matter of opinion.
The radical meaning of the word is a tumulus or ' swelling,' either
applicable to the spur generally, or to a knoll towards the northern part
of the spur. The A.V. (margin), however, understands 'tower' (2 Chron.
xxvii. 3, xxxiii. 14), and the Targum on the first of these passages renders
it by ' the interior palace,' or fortress. Josephus mentions Ophel (5 Wars
iv. 2) in connection with the junction of the city wall with the east cloister
of the Temple, and it is possible that the name should be restricted to
the vicinity of this great tower, which was discovered during the
excavations.

The wall and the curious cavern south of the Triple Gate will now be
described. The great tunnel from the Virgin's Fountain which is cut
through the Ophel spur, together with that spring and the Pool and
inscription of Siloam, will be found described in Part II., under the
headings, ' 'Ain Umm ed Deraj,' and ' 'Ain Silwan.' The excavations
of Dr. Guthe are noticed on a later page in speaking of the explorations
which have been made in Jerusalem since 1869.

The Ophel wall was found to be \\\ feet thick, with vertical faces built
up without any batter. At the South-East Angle of the Sanctuary the
highest remaining course was discovered to be only 4 feet below the
present surface (or at a level 2,352), and as the rock on the east face of
the wall at this point has a level 2,278, the wall stands no less than 74
feet in height. The highest course consisted of drafted stones, and is
3 feet 9 inches in height. Beneath this the courses only average i foot
9 inches in height. These smaller stones are not drafted. The wall was
examined on its west face near the junction with the Sanctuary wall, and
at a depth of 30 feet the character of the masonry was found to change.
Above this level the stones are well dressed and carefully cut and
squared ; below the same level (2,322) the wall consists of rough rubble.
This does not extend to the rock, but is founded on a layer of hard clay
over the rock. Near the Sanctuary a gallery was driven through this
clay under the foundation of the wall until it reached a previously con-
structed gallery on the opposite or west side of the wall.

The change in the character of the masonry above noted was obscrv-

29 — 2

228 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

able throughout the whole course of the Ophel wall, and it might perhaps
hence be deduced that the lower part of the wall was never visible, and
that the rock was hidden at a depth of about 40 feet below the surface
when the Ophel wall was built. The excavations for the foundations
appear to have been sunk to the surface of the clay, whereas in the case
of the Sanctuary wall they were carried down lower, so that the bottom
courses are let into the rock.

The Ophel w-all abuts on the Sanctuary wall with a straight joint;
being vertical, its east face does not run flush with that of the Sanctuary
wall, which is built with a batter. At the top the Ophel wall projects
\\ feet eastwards beyond the face of the Sanctuary wall, and at the
bottom (70 feet lower) it recedes 2 feet behind the face of the Sanctuary
wall westwards. There is no sign of any gateway at this junction, and
there is good reason to suppose that the Sanctuary wall and the Ophel
wall were not built at the same time. Sir C. Warren believes that the
Sanctuary wall is shown to be the older of the two because the rubble
foundations of the Ophel wall might indicate a great accumulation of
rubbish on the hill at the time when this rampart was built, if they were
never intended to be visible.

The bearing of the Ophel wall is the same (352° 30' true bearing) as
that of the Sanctuary east wall for go feet south of the South-East Angle
of the Sanctuary ; at this point there is a tower on the Ophel wall,
projecting 6 feet, with a face 24 feet broad. The wall then turns south-
west, and was traced for 700 feet, when it appeared to stop. Three other
towers like that at the angle were found along its course, as well as a
large tower projecting eastwards. This projecting fortification has on the
north-cast side a kind of corner turret which projects 22^ feet from the
wall, with a face 26 feet broad. There was possibly a corresponding
turret on the other side, while the main part of the tower projects 41 5
feet from the wall, and has a face 80 feet broad. The faces of this tower,
as will be seen on the plan, are not quite at right angles to each other.
The south face is 475 feet from the corner, where the wall bends towards
the south-west, as above described.

There can be litde reason to doubt that the great tower thus described
is the one mentioned in the Book of Nehemiah as the Migdol ha Jutza,
or 'tower that projects' (Neh. iii. 25), and this building constitutes

JERUSALEM. 229

therefore an important fixed point in the topography of ancient
Jerusalem.

The masonry in the corner turret of the great tower consists of large
drafted stones, 2 feet to 3 feet high, and 4 feat to 8 feet long, with roughly
hewn bosses. The base is founded on a rock scarp, and is 5 feet below
the level of the base of the wall. The rock beneath is scarped to a
height of 14J feet. The natural rock surface is here falling very rapidly
eastwards. The face of the great tower itself consists of stones i foot to
2 feet high, and 2 feet to 3 feet long. It is now standing to a height
of 66 feet, and is founded on rock. The south-west face is much
decayed. The wall is plastered in places, as on the large drafted stones
of the corner turret. Beneath the rock scarp just mentioned there is a
water channel, 10 feet high and i^ feet wide, sunk at the foot of the
scarp. The scarp was traced 25 feet north-north-east, when a rough wall
took its place.

The first shaft sunk in the examination of this rampart was at 37 feet
south of the South-East Angle of the Sanctuary. It struck the rock at a
depth of 53 feet on the east side of the Ophel wall. A gallery thence
was driven to the Sanctuary wall. A wall was found 4 feet thick, and
15 feet south of the south Sanctuarj' wall, running parallel to the latter
westwards from the inner side of the Ophel Avail. This foundation, like
the Ophel wall, consisted partly of luclckch, partly of luczzch, or very
hard limestone.

The Ophel wall was found to stop suddenly on the south, and about
200 feet further south-west in the same line, the rock appears to rise in
a kind of knoll, the rock surface being only about 12 feet below the
present surface (or at a level 2,474). It is probable that the masonry
of the Ophel wall has been removed in this vicinity, being easily
reached, and the stones may perhaps be now built into the south wall of
the present town. The same removal of masonry has also apparently
occurred in the case of the Third Wall on the north side of Jerusalem,
where no great accumulation of rubbish existed to conceal and protect
the ancient ramparts.

The Ophel wall appears possibly to have been built up in two or
more steps, with a pathway at the foot of each. The same arrangement
is also noticeable in the case of the rock scarp in the Protestant Cemetery.

230 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

(See Part II., heading ' Ilamniain Tabariya.') The three smaller towers
on the wall above mentioned project about 6 feet, and have faces 22 to
28 feet broad. The first is at 310 feet from the angle with corner tower,
the second at 425 feet, the third at 575 feet. The rough rubble already
noticed at the base of the wall has an average thickness of 20 feet, and
above it is a plinth course setting back 6 inches, on which the masonry of
cut stone rests. Only a few courses of these cut stones remain in some
parts, and some are as much as 2\ feet in height, with lengths varying
from 2 to 4 feet.

Sir C. Warren was of opinion that the stones in the Ophel wall were
not in situ, but that they had been re-uscd. It appears also that some
outer retaining wall may exist, which may have banked up the soil so as
to cover the rough rubble if the latter were not intended to be seen.

A scarp 12 to 14 feet high was found running south-east and north-
west at the knoll above mentioned, which is 200 feet along the line of the
Ophel wall south-west of the point where it appears to stop. A scarp
only 3 or 4 feet high was found by Dr. Guthe, on the hill immediately
west of the Virgin's Fountain. These scarps seem to indicate that tlie
Ophel wall took a bend eastwards. The masonry of a small tower
excavated by Dr. Guthe is of a character similar to the smaller well cut
masonry of the Ophel wall, and this may perhaps be a continuation of
the wall. Further excavation would, however, be necessary before any
certainty could be felt in the matter.

The question of the date of the Ophel wall is one of considerable
difficulty. Sir C. Warren believes that a great accumulation of rubbish,
and perhaps of clay soil on the rock, occurred after the Sanctuary wall
was built and before the Ophel wall was constructed. It must not. how-
ever, be forgotten that Sir C. Warren proved in the case of the Sanctuary
wall that rubbish already existed when it was built, through which the
foundations were sunk to reach the rock. It is, moreover, not certain
that the rubble base of the Ophel wall was from the first invisible, for no
traces of any outer retaining wall serving to keep up the earth or rubbish
against the outer face of the rubble have been found. It may perhaps
prove to be the case that the rubble and the cut stone represent two
building periods. The cut stones in the wall (e.xclusive of the large
drafted stones used in the top course and in the outlying tower) resemble

JERUSALEM. 231

in character the Roman masonry of the second century a.d., or even later.
The rough rubble and the rocky scarps may perhaps represent the older
part of the rampart, and may be referred with considerable confidence to
the time of Nehemiah. The cut stones, together with large drafted stones
like those in the Sanctuary wall (but, as Sir C. Warren notes, re-used),
may in their present positions represent the work of Herod, of Agrippa,
or Hadrian, or even of some later Roman builder, thus agreeing with the
conclusion which Sir C. Warren reached on the spot, that the Ophel wall
as at present existing is later than the Sanctuary wall. The fact that the
Ophel and Sanctuary walls have the same bearing at the junction is, how-
ever, important, because it might be thought that the obtuse angle at the
south-east corner of the Sanctuary resulted from the building of the cast
wall of the Sanctuary in a line with the already existent Ophel wall.

Rock-cut Cave South of the Triple Gate.

Two shafts were driven early in 1869 with the object of ascertaining
whether any wall coming from the south ever joined the Sanctuary wall
at or near the Triple Gateway. The first (No. 34) was 132 feet south of
the gate, west of a cistern : rock was found after 22 feet (or at a level
about 2,340), and in a drain at this level a number of lamps of pottery
and glass bottles were found, supposed to date about the third century a.d.
A gallery was driven 25 feet west along the rock, but no wall was found.
The owner of the adjoining property objected to the gallery being con-
tinued further west. A cistern was found east of the shaft, with a cross
(of St. John) moulded in the plaster of a small alcove. The second shaft
(No. 42) was sunk 260 feet from the Triple Gate, in a line at right angles
to the east jamb of the centre arch of the Triple Gateway. The rock was
reached at a level about 2,300, and the shaft is close to the inside of the
Ophel wall. A gallery driven west along the rock struck the same
ancient drain found in the former shaft, and a branch from the north-
west was also found. After running 30 feet from the shaft, the gallery
struck on a massive wall running north in the direction of the east jamb
of the centre arch of the Triple Gate. This wall was followed southwards
31 feet, where it ceases, and 35 feet to the north, where it is succeeded
by a wall of rubble, on the top of which, not apparently in situ, was a

232 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

well-cut drafted stone 2 feet high by 3^ feet long. The rubble wall
continues 10 feet further north. Further examination showed a large
stone 3 feet high by 1 5 feet in length, used in this wall, and cut stones
appear to have stood on the rubble. A shaft was found immediately east
of the wall, which (as shown on the Plan) led to the rock-cut chamber which
is under the wall. Tlic level of the surface at this point is 2,349, and the
rock is 29 feet lower (or 2,420). The shaft is 4I feet deep, and passes
down into the roof of the chamber.

There was nothing to indicate the age of the walls thus found, which
may perhaps have been built to retain a ramp running up towards the
Triple Gate. Further excavations were undertaken (Nos. 38 and 40)
just south of the path leading east and west at the corner of the modern
city wall. In the latter, rock was found at 27^ feet, with rock-cut cisterns
and a passage leading to them with steps east of the shaft. A gallery
was driven north and reached another cistern, 17 feet square, and was
continued for 60 feet. The rock was found to have a scarp facing east.
In the other shaft rock was found at 12 feet (2,303) with a scarp facing
west, and 12 feet to 14 feet high for 15 feet north-west and south-east.
The chief result of these shafts was the determination of the rock, and of
the fact that this part of the hill had once been covered with buildings.
The drain discovered may be connected with the rock-cut channels which
come from inside the Sanctuary under the Triple Gate.

The cavern above mentioned was fully explored. It consists of
two chambers cut in the rock with fiat rock roofs. The northern chamber
is about 1 2 feet square, and on the east side a masonry wall closes it.
The southern chamber is of irregular shape: three rock piers divide it,
and run in a line north-east and south-west. The portion east of the piers,
which may have formed some kind of porch, is confined by masonry walls
on the east and south. It is in the roof of this portion tliat the rock shaft
(noticed above as found in gallery No. 42), occurs. The larger part of
the chamber, west of the piers, is of rock, except on the east (south of the
piers), where a masonry wall occurs. The shape is best seen on the plan.
There are two troughs cut in rock against the wall, as shown, 1 \ feet
wide and 6 inches deep. In one a plug-hole was found, as though the
trough were a vat for the reception of a liquid. Eyes are cut in the roof,
on the walls, and at intervals below the troughs, two grooves in the rock

JERUSALEM. zy^,

being connected by a hole pierced horizontally. These holes are about

I inch behind the rock surface, and a rope \\ inches in diameter might be
passed through them ; the holes are about 2 inches long. The present
floor is about 2 feet below the level of the troughs, but the rock floor is

I I feet below the same level. This seems to preclude the possibility that
the troughs were originally intended for mangers, if the floor were on the
rock.

The modern dyers' shops in Jerusalem contain somewhat similar
tioughs or vats, and staples in the walls for the lines on which the dyed
cloths are hung to dry. The vats are, however, circular, and not as in
the cavern, long and narrow. The earth in the cavern was turned over
and many fragments of pottery were found, as well as the base of a
copper candlestick, which appears to be of the Byzantine period. Above
the shaft in the roof of the cave is a drain, in which fragments of glass
and pottery of the early Christian period were also found.

Tradition points to this quarter of Jerusalem in connection with the
trade of fulling. Thus En Rogel (probably the Virgin's Fountain) is
generally translated ' The Fuller's Spring,' and St. James is said by the
early traditions to have been thrown from the Sanctuary wall and slain by
a fuller's mace. On the other hand, the troughs are not unlike the rock-
cut mangers which occur in caves in Southern Judea (possibly also at
Bethlehem), and at Arak el Emir, east of Jordan, as well as at Dustrey,
near Athlit. Such mangers seem to have been used in the Middle Ages,
in early Christian times, and also in the Jewish ages before the destruction
of Jerusalem. The cave may therefore have been either a fuller's shop
or a stable ; but in the latter case a considerable accumulation of earth
must have existed above the rock where the troughs were cut.

C. R. C.

EXCAVATIONS IN THE CITY, 1867— 1869.

The excavations within the city include those in the Muristan ; the
shaft at the so-called Gennath Gate ; those outside the Damascus Gate ;
and the shaft in the street called el Wad. The results in the Muristan
were mainly negative, and are noted in the full account of the Muristan
given on a later page.

Gennatii Gate (so-called).

The spot to which this name is traditionally applied is at the corner
where the street called llaret ed Dawayeh turns sharp north and
descends into David Street. A few voussoirs of a semicircular arch of
squared stones were here visible in the wall facing west. A donation was
made by H.R.H. the Archduke of Modena for excavations at this spot.
A shaft was sunk beside the north jamb in Ecbruary, 1S69, and the arch
found to be well preserved beneath the surface, though much weathered
above. The rise is 5 feet 4 inches, the diameter 10 feet 8 inches. The
haunch rests on a capital, the profile of which was measured ; it is 2 feet
high. The jamb consists of three courses below this capital, having a
total height of 7 feet 4 inches for the three courses. A flat sill projects
12 inches beyond the jamb at the bottom, but no pavement was found.
The arch consists of eleven voussoirs, each 2 feet 3 inches deep, by the
same measure at the extrados ; the keystone projects 3 inches below the
soffit of the rest of the arch — unless this be due to settlement in the
crown. A pointed archway of late date was found to be built within
the older gate. The groundsill is nearly on the level of the present

JERUSALEM. 235

surface of David Street. The shaft was sunk below the sill, and this
gateway was found to rest on earth mixed with pottery. The rock was
struck at a level 2,449, the level of the sill being 2,474^, and that of the
present surface 2,486. No signs of any ancient wall were found at the
bottom of the shaft.

The gateway has probably no connection with the true Gennath Gate.
It appears to be Roman or Byzantine in origin, perhaps the west door of
a church or public building. The level of the sill enables us to measure
the rate of growth of the rubbish in Jerusalem at this point, which has
amounted to only 10 feet in about fourteen centuries. On the other hand
the level of the modern streets is in parts known to have been raised more
than 6 inches in about ten years when the town was repaved.

Damascus Gate.

An excavation was commenced in August, 1867, outside this gate
and east of the road, where a great heap of rubbish now occurs. A
solid wall was found outside the present city wall, and north of this a
flight of steps probably leading into a tank. North again of the steps an
ancient wall was found running east and west, consisting of large drafted
stones like those of the Sanctuary, but apparently not in situ. The wall
stops nearly opposite the present gate, and wa? here found to be lo.j feet
thick, the north side being of different masonry to the south, but judged
to be of the same age. The foundations of this wall are 3 feet lower
than the present roadway at the Damascus Gate, and the greater part of
the wall is above the present general level, but concealed by the heap of
rubbish. The conclusion reached by Sir C. Warren was that the wall in
question was built by the Crusaders with ancient material, and this agrees
with the fact that traces of the foundations of the Crusading north wall
of Jerusalem are visible further west at the edge of the fosse outside the
modern city wall. A stone was found in the rubbish at the foot of the
wall, on which a Templar's cross was cut. It had once formed part of
the wall. The core of the wall was traced west of the present roadway
under the rubbish heap, which exists on this side of the modern Damascus
gate. This gate in the twelfth century was called St. Stephen's Gate.
The Third Wall, built by Agrippa, is generally supposed to have passed

23G THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

above the Cotton Grotto rather further east, and from that ancient rampart
the largo stones in the Crusading wall were probably taken.

The Street called El Wad.

A shaft was commenced on tlic 19th May, 1S69, close to the corner of
this street, where the Via Dolorosa joins it immediately south of the
Austrian Hospice (at the point marked 27 on the Ordnance Survey).
The level of the surface is here 2,418. The shaft on the west side of the
street passed through black soil and large rough stones until, at a depth
of i/i feet (2,400), the rock was found to shelve down at about 45'' in a
west-south-west direction in steps 2 J, feet high, A gallery was driven
west through hard soil and large stones, and after 5.^ feet the old sewer
from the Damascus Gate was found, which is 2 feet wide and 4 feet
9 inches high; the floor is of rock, falling about one in six to the south;
the roof is of flat stones laid across: this was examined for 130 feet
southwards, and three shafts leading down into it were explored. The
gallery was continued beyond this sewer, and at 1 7 feet it reached a shaft
with a drain above reaching 7 feet higher. The shaft was cleared and
rock discovered at 15 feet below the gallery (2,378). The shaft was
4 feet square of masonry. The rock was scarped on the east and south.

The principal result of these excavations was the determination of the
rock in an important locality. The existence of a scarp facing south
further east, near the Ecce Homo Arch, and of another scarp facing east
in the street called Tarik Bab el 'Amud, north of the Damascus Hotel,
together with the lie of the rock in the gallery above mentioned, seem to
point to a rocky counterscarp in this part of Jerusalem, which might
prove to have been that of the ditch outside the famous ' Second Wall.'

C. R. C.

EXPLORATIONS SINCE 1869 A.D.

THE HARAM ENCLOSURE.
BiRKET IsRaIl.

It is worthy of notice that the masonry of the pool is similar to
masonry found in Byzantine ruins in various parts of Palestine, not only
because of the size and square proportions of the stones, but also because
the wide joints are packed with small cubes of stone. The stones were
rudely scored over to make the cement adhere better. Where the casing
has fallen away a second thickness of similar masonry is seen behind.
This seems to render it improbable that any wall like those on the other
three sides of the Haram here exists ; for such a wall would hardly have
been faced with a double casing of such inferior masonry. This conjecture
agrees also with the fact that no corner or straight joint was found in
Colonel Warren's excavations in the eastern face of the east wall, which
runs north beyond the present north-east angle of the Sanctuary. We
have as yet no conclusive evidence of the line of the ancient north wall of
the Temple Enclosure.

East Wall.

A gateway in the more modern masonry was opened in this wall in
1882, and an attempt at excavation made within the wall by the Turks.
The wall at the level of the present surface was found to be 9 feet
6 inches thick. The following is Lieutenant Mantell's account of the
gateway :

=3S

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

'The thickness of the wall is 9 feet 6 inches, and through it a passage is built 3 feet
9i Inches in width. The height is 6 feet 7 inches to the si)ring of the arch, which is formed
of seven voussoirs in all, the key-stone being smaller than the side voussoirs. The height in
the centre is 8 feet 6 inches, so that the rise of the arch is just half the span. It is, however,
not semicircular, but slightly jjointcd.

•At the eastern face arrangements have been made for a door. The three horizontal
grooves arc presumably intended to leave space for the bolts in opening and shutting the

■ Plan, oC Gate & Passage'

Sectirn, on A.B. Fig 3. .-•"^■7/'

■m

jm^i-

:-,; a

Section on CD

Section, on EK

fact I

_L_

SccLle

wdet

door — an arrangement sometimes followed at the present time. On each side also is seen a
hole for hinges or bolts, one being represented in the figure below the central horizontal
groove.

' The opening on the east is narrower than the passage itself (being 6 feet i inch high by
3 feet broad), and is surmounted by a lintel-stone 6 feet 6 inches by 2 feet by lo inches thick.
The size and arrangement of the adjacent stones are shown according to actual measurements.

'The left (southern) jamb of the door is 257 feet from the south-east corner of the
Haram.

JERUSALEM. 239

' With the exception of the lowest course, the masonry within the gate and on the inner
surface of the wall consists of well-cut undrafted stones, i foot to 2 feet 6 inches in length, in
courses from i foot to 2 feet in height. The materials of the lowest course, however, are
evidently more ancient ; the stones are much larger (the dimensions of two of them being
4 feet 6 inches by 3 feet 8 inches, and 4 feet 9 inches by 3 feet respectively), and show signs
of a marginal draft with a much worn rustic boss. One side of the passage is partly covered
with good white mortar, with tool marks on the surface resembling arrow-heads, intended
either to be ornamental or for the reception of another layer of plaster.

' After reaching the inner face of the wall, the excavators ran a gallery northwards under
the surface of the Haram for a distance of 29 feet. The earth through which it runs consists
of stones (some 6 inches to i foot across) and rubbish, and is supported by woodwork, one
side of the gallery being formed by the wall itself. It is here that the interior course of more
ancient material referred to above has been laid bare. One stone projects from the floor of
the gallery, but the rest of the floor is apparently earth. At the north end the ground plan of
the wall is as represented. The dotted line at this point shows a closed up drain, or the
vacant space left by removing one of the lowest stones in the wall.

' The work has now been left some months, I believe, in statu quo, and the Turks do not
at present show any intention of continuing their investigations further.

'A. M. M.'

' This door is probably not older than the fifteenth century at earliest. The masonry of
the Haram above the door and north of it became much dilapidated in 1881.

' C. R. C

Measurements of the Haram.

The Tyropceon Bridg e. — The existing arch is 50 feet broad,
and measures 38 feet 9 inches from the south-west corner of the Haram.
The accord between this and the dimensions of the Royal Cloister of
Herod's Temple is striking. As regards the diameter of the pillars of the
Royal Cloister, they may, no doubt, be assumed at about 6 feet, which is
about the diameter of the existing monolith at the Double Gate. The
measurements of the Cloister will then be :

JosepJmss

Meastirement.

Wall (thickness)

... 8 feet) „-

r \ 38 feet,
... 30 feet ) "^

South Walk of Cloister

Pillar (diameter)

6 feet \

Central Cloister

... 45 feet > 52 feet,

Pillar (diameter)

6 feet )

Total ... ... ... 90 feet.

240 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Actual Measurement.

From south-west angle to south side of

Bridge ... ... ■■. 3S feet 9 inches.

Breadth of Bridge ... ... .•• 50 feet.

Total ... ... ... 88 feet 9 inches.

This is as near as we can go without actually knowing the diameter of the
pillars, which could hardly be spanned by three men (Ant. xv. 11, 5).
If we reduce the diameter to 5 feet 6 inches, the result will agree with
actual measurement within 3 inches.

Length and Width of El A k s a. — The measurements are
given in an Arab MS. of the fifteenth century of the Masjid el Aksa,
which, as is well known, was the old Arab name for the whole enclosure
now called H a r a m e s h S h c r i f . The Arab writer gives the breadth
along the north wall as 455 dhra, which is just the length of the north
wall of the Haram, 1,042 feet. The length, 784 dhra, which he gives, is
equally close to the length of the west Haram wall, 1,601 feet. The
dhra is the Turkish/?^, or 2 feet 3 inches.

The measurements of the Masjid given in the same century by
Mejr ed Din (Hist. Jerusalem, Chapter xx.) are equally exact. He makes
the length of the east wall from Bab el Asbat to the M i h r a b
DclCld (south-east corner) to be 669 common architectural dhra, which
agrees with the length of the present east wall, 1,530 feet. The width
he giv'es is a mean measure from the outside of the wall at the Bab e r
R a h m e h (Golden Gate) to the opposite cloisters. This he states at
406 dhra, agreeing very closely with the actual measurement of 970 feet.

Mejr ed Din adds, ' Should any one else find it one or two dhra
more or less, it must be put down to the difficulty of measuring. I
measured it twice myself before I obtained the true measure ' (Chajncr
XX., Section 20).

Mejr ed Din also gives the size of the J a m i 'a el Aksa, or mosque,
on the south Haram wall. He makes it 100 dh'a long by "Ji dhra wide.
The measurements are exact, without including the porch outside on the
north.

These measurements are of value as showing that the area of the

JERUSALEM. 241

Haram was the same in the fifteenth century as it now is, and that Mejr
ed Din, who took the mean width, was aware that the area was not
rectangular.

Two standard examples of the small and medium amch are said in the
Mishna (Kelim xvii. 9) to have been preserved at the Gate Shushan,
which was due east of the Holy House. This gate has not yet been
rediscovered. When it is, let us hope the standard measures will also be
found.

The Jews had at least three measures called ameh, or cubit. The
smallest, of five handbreadths, measured the vessels of the Temple ;
the medium, of six handbreadths, measured its buildings (Tal. Jer.
Menakhoth 97 a). The medium cubit consisted of two spans [sit).

It must not be forgotten, in dealing with this matter, that the Jews
are not a tall people, and that their hands were probably as delicate as
those of the present Jews and Arabs. We may therefore take the
measures of an English gentleman's hand as not being less than those of
a Jewish hand.

Taking, therefore, the cubit of forty-eight barleycorns (Maimonides,
Sepher Torah, ix. 9), and the barleycorn as equal to our English long
measure barleycorn — as results from actual measurements of barleycorns
in Syria made in 1872 — we obtain 16 inches for the medium cubit, and
the span is consequently 8 inches, which is about the extreme distance
which can be stretched from the thumb to the small finger of an ordinary
hand. A hand spanning 9 inches is a large one.

^\\& zercth, rendered ' handbreadth,' will in this case be 5 33 inches,
which is the ordinary span of the four fingers. As to the smaller
divisions, there is great difficulty in ascertaining how the measurements
are to be made, and the determination of the larger ones, sit and zeretJi,
is of course more conclusive in the matter. As regards verification from
monumental remains, I have pointed out that in the Synagogue of Umm
el 'Amed the pillars are 10 cubits high, with bases of i cubit and capitals
of half a cubit, the cubit being taken as 16 inches.

The proposed determination of the levels of the Temple Courts
from the same hypothesis has also been explained in ' Tent Work in
Palestine' (Vol. I., p. 359).

In the Haram itself there are several other similar indications. Thus,

242 TJIE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

at the north-west corner of the area, the chamber which I explored in
1873 shows piers projecting from the wall at an interval of 8 feet 9 inches,
with a Hice of 4 feet 9 inches, giving a total of 1 3 feet 6 inches as the
distance from centre to centre of the piers. Ten cubits of 16 inches is
equal to 13 feet 4 inches, giving an interval of 10 cubits for the piers
from centre to centre, while the piers are 3^ cubits broad.

The average height of a course of masonry in the Haram wall is
3 feet 4 inches, or 2 A cubits of 16 inches. The lintel of the Single Gate
is 82 inches high, which is within 2 inches of 5 cubits. The master-course
on the south wall is 6 feet in height, or 4^ cubits of the 16-inch dimen-
sions. The wall at Jerusalem (and at Hebron) is 8 feet, or 6 cubits, thick
above the level of the interior. The Hebron buttresses are 8 cubits from
centre to centre. Three consecutive stones in the second course of the
east wall, as measured by Colonel Warren, are respectively 7 cubits,
3^ cubits, and 4I cubits in length. Colonel Warren has remarked that
the dimensions of the Haram masonry arc generally multiples of the
English foot. The explanation is perhaps to be found in the relation
of 4 to 3 between the foot and the cubit.

1 1 may be that this accumulation of coincidental indications is not
conclusive, but at least no such evidence has been collected in favour
of a longer dimension for the cubit.

The amch was the length of the fore-arm to the first joint of the
fingers. It requires a long arm to make this equal to 18 inches.

Note as to the Haram Masonry.

The masonry above the surface was carefully examined by the Uuc de
Vogiie in 1862, and is described in his great work on the ' Temple of
Jerusalem' (pp. 4-7). He considers the drafted ashlar to belong to the
time of Herod, and the good square masonry above it to be of the
Byzantine period (i^robably of the time of Justinian) ; the latter is found
chiefly on the south-west and west. Both these kinds of masonry and
the later Arab work above are described in detail in the Ordnance Survey
Notes, pp. 23-28. The early undraftcd Byzantine masonry almost equals
the drafted in the dimensions of the stones.

The dressing of the drafts in the ancient masonry Is quite unlike that

JERUSALEM. 243

found in any other buildings yet examined throughout Palestine, with
exception of the Hebron Haram, the stones of which, in size and finish,
exactly resemble the finished work at Jerusalem. The adze of 8 teeth to
the inch was carefully used in a vertical direction ; such an instrument is
still used by native masons, but it is much coarser, and is more carelessly
used than in the Haram ashlar. Drafted masonry of the Byzantine and
of the Crusading period is common in all parts of Syria ; but the Byzan-
tines used a chisel giving a rough finish only, and the Crusaders used a
fine chisel, generally in a diagonal direction. The Crusading drafted
stones have, moreover (as, for instance, at Kulat el Hosn, north-east of
Tripoli) in some cases mason's marks on the face of the stone. The
dressing of the Baalbek drafted masonry (Roman work of the second
century, a.d.) is also quite different from that of the Jerusalem and Hebron
Harams. The drafted stones east of the Holy Sepulchre Church, and
those in the scarp of the so-called Tower of David, and at the Zion
scarp, are quite differently dressed along the drafts from the Haram
masonry.

The fine adze dressing also occurs on the remaining voussoirs of the
Tyropceon Bridge — an indication of some importance — and Sir C.
Warren describes the same dressing on the stones at the base oi the
great walls. It would appear, therefore, not Improbable that all the
finished drafted masonry in the Sanctuary walls belongs to the same date
with the Tyropceon Bridge.

Sir C. Warren is disposed to give different dates for different parts
of the ancient Sanctuary wall, for two principal reasons. First, because
of the distinct style of the masonry north of the Golden Gate, west of the
Double Gate, and on the west wall south of the Prophet's Gate, where
the stones have rustic bosses with great projection. Secondly, because
the master-course, which ran from the Double Gate to the south-east
anele, is not found west of the Double Gate. With regard to these two
arguments it may, however, perhaps be useful to remember, first, that in
the three places where the rustic work occurs a valley intersects the east,
the west, and the south walls of the Sanctuary respectively. It may be
suggested that the ground was filled in in these valleys, both inside and
outside the Sanctuary, above the level of the rough masonry, at the time
of the construction of the walls, and that the pavement at this level at the

244 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Prophet's Gate and south-west angle belongs to the time of the building
of the wall. In this case the rough-faced stones would have been left
unfinished because they were never intended to be seen, and the drafts
only cut to insure the fitting of the joints, which is so close that a knife can
hardly be inserted between the stones. It would not on such a theory be
necessary to suppose that the rougher masonry is of different date to the
smooth ; but the masonry must in this case be later than the original
TyropcKon Bridge. Secondly, as regards the master-course, it may be
remarked that this band of stone is not continued northwards along the
cast wall, any more than westwards from the Double Gate. It is replaced
on the east by two ordinary courses ; but the east wall (towards its south
end) is supposed by Sir C. Warren to be of the same date with the south
wall for two-thirds at least of its length towards the east. The argument
drawn from the absence of the master-course would affect the east wall as
well as the western part of the south wall and the southern part of the
west wall ; remembering, however, the many irregularities of material,
finish, and angular measurement in the Sanctuary walls, it does not perhaps
seem possible to draw a very definite conclusion from the extent of the
Great Course.

No conclusion as to the date of the wall can be drawn from the
characters painted on the stones of the bottom courses. We are without
any monumental inscription of the time of Solomon with which to
compare them. The letters have been pronounced Phoenician by the
late Mr. Deutch, but their forms are too rude to give any clear indication
of their age. They may have been painted by Herod's masons quite as
well as by Solomon's.

The stones at the base of the wall at the south- east angle have the
face within the draft dressed, but the drafts are very irregular. It may,
perhaps, be suggested that these are spoilt stones, which either through a
failure of material, or through the stupidity of the mason, were so cut as
to be unfit for their original destination in the part of the wall which was
visible. I'or these reasons they were marked for the foundation and
placed in the lowest courses, which Sir C. Warren has shown never to
have been seen after the wall was finished. This view would agree with
the supposition that the stones were faced in the quarry, and not after
being placed in the wall.

JERUSALEM. 245

Josephus tells us that the area of the Temple Enclosure was increased
by various builders since Solomon (5 Wars, v. i), and that Herod rebuilt
the cloisters from their foundations (i Wars, xxi. 1). The intersection of
the ancient aqueduct, on the south-west, by the wall, together with the
above historical statement, with the dressing of the Tyropoeon voussoirs,
and with the similarity of finish in the foundations and in the highest
drafted courses, all seem to point in one direction : namely, to the late
date of the Haram walls as at present existing, and to the drafted masonry
being — as contended by De Vogiie — the work of Herod the Great.

On these considerations the following suggestions of date are founded,
which may perhaps be considered worthy of notice.

1. The foundations of the Ophel wall were the work of Nehemiah
in 457 B.C.

2. The single voussoir of the Tyropoeon Bridge, found in the rock-cut
aqueduct beneath the pavement supporting the other fallen voussoirs,
belonged to the bridge destroyed at the time of Pompey's siege in 63 B.C.
(14 Ant. Iv. 2, I Wars vii. 2).

3. The Tyropoeon Bridge was rebuilt by Herod the Great, 19 B.C.,
and the lowest pavement laid.

4. The drafted masonry of the Haram walls, which has the same dress-
ing with the voussoirs of this second bridge, belongs to the same period.

5. The somewhat different masonry of the east wall north of the
Golden Gate, together with the great stones lying north of the modern
city (see Part H., el Heidhemiyeh), belong to the wall of Agrippa, 41 a.d.

6. The undrafted Roman masonry, the later work of the Double and
Triple Gates, the vaults of their tunnels, the vaulting of Solomon's Stables,
of the Prophet's Gate, of Wilson's Arch, and of several of the tanks.
Including the Twin Pools, belong, together with the Golden Gate, to the
time of Justinian's restorations in 532 a.d.

Byzantine Work in the Haram.

The vaulting and piers of the passage from the Double Gate, the
Double Tunnel from the Triple Gate, and the so-called Solomon's
Stables, are generally acknowledged to be of Byzantine origin. These
vaults have all the same peculiarity of a very narrow keystone with

246

THE SURVEY 01- WESTERN PALESTINE.

voussoirs gradually increasing in width towards the haunches. The same
peculiarity is observable in the vaulting of the passage from the Prophet's
Gate, and in the masonry vaults covering cisterns I. and III. (of the
Ordnance Survey), as well as in the older part of the vaulting over the
Twin Pools. It is probable, therefore, that the passage from Barclay's
(or tin; Prophet's) Gate was roofed in in the sixth century, the older roof
of the passage having fallen in, unless the entrance consisted only of an
open passage without any roof.

Dome of the Rock.

Restorations were commenced in 1873 by order of the Sultan 'Abd el
'Aziz, and during their execution several interesting discoveries were made.

The I larain was frequently visited at this time by MINI. Clermont Ganneau
and Le Comte, by Lieutenant Conder, and by l\Tr. Tyrwhitt Drake.

JERUSALEM.

247

Herr Schick was also connected with the work as an adviser of the
native architects. Within the Dome of the Rock the marble casing of the
blocks above the pillars and surrounding the bases was removed and the
original bases laid bare. They proved to be different from each other,
and the shafts were found to rest on a bedding of lead above the base.
The capitals were all sketched by Lieutenant Conder in 1S73, with a view
of showing the great differences existing between them. It appears that

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

■■ W'WS'.A'^W

« - -7 JO - -->

the columns were taken from some earlier building or buildings, very
possibly from the Holy Sepulchre Basilica of Constantine, for the purpose
of supporting the present Dome,

During the time when the scaffolding was erected within the Dome,
Lieutenant Conder ascended into the drum and was able to observe the
glass mosaic. It is remarkable that the gilded tessercc are fitted in at an
anyle so as to reflect the licrht downwards. The tcsscrcc of other colours

248 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

are not so arranged, but are placed flat in the wall. This arrangement
appears first to have been noticed by Herr K. Schick.

The removal of the Kishani tiles from the e.xterior of the octagon
wall laid bare the arcades of the balustrade above the roof. This was
examined by all the officers of the Society. The dressing of the stones
has been injured by their preparation to receive the tiles, but both in
proportion and dressing they appear to bear no resemblance to Crusading
masonry. Beams were found resting on this wall above the modern
ceiling, forming part of an older roofj with an inscription dating from
913 .A.D. A well-carved wooden cornice, hidden by the modL-rn ceiling,

appears to have supported the older roof. The date thus obtained,
together with the dates above the gates in this wall (216 a. 11., or
831 A.P.), appear to agree in pointing to the erection of the octagonal
wall in the ninth century. The arcades arc not mentioned before the
twelfth century, but llu: round arches and the pairs of dwarf pilasters,
standing above the larger panels, having also round arches, give to the
octagon wall a general style approaching to that of Sassanian buildings.
The building at 'Amman, which has been considered by architectural
authorities to be not later than the eleventh century, bears a striking
resemblance to the octagon wall of the Dome of the Rock. The pointed
arch is .said to have been first used by the Arabs in the ninth ccntiu'v.

JERUSALEM.

249

and the general result of these various indications seems to tend to the
supposition that the octagon wall of the Dome of the Rock was erected
in the ninth century. (See Dr. Chaplin's Letter, ' Quarterly Statement,'

1873. P- I55-)

Some eight rafters in all were laid bare above this wall in 1873.
The inscription was in Cufic, and was thus rendered by Professor

Palmer : 'In the name of God, grace from God to the servant of
God, Jafer el IMuktader Billah, Commander of the Faithful, may God
spare him to us. According to the order of Essaiyedeh (may God aid
her), and it was performed at the hands of Lebid, a Freedman of
Essaiyideh, and that was in one and . . .'

The date was illegible, but Professor Palmer points out that the
Mosques of the Empire were repaired by 'Aly Ibn Isa, vizier of El

zso THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

Muki.ulir, in ilv \v\w of th(j llcginih 301 (913 A.D.), which is evidently
lh<: cl.iK; of this text.

The carved wooden cornice was found between the modern ceiling
and the roof. The ceiling dates from 1190 a. 11., or 1776 a.u. The
cornice was evidently once visible.

TiiF. Platform Pavement.

A good many masons' marks were observed on the flagstones of the
platform round the Dome of the Rock. They were copied by Captain
Conder and Mr. Tyrwhitt Drake :

'^ D-HV- P ^ S ^41. E

A few of these are marks commonly found on Crusading buildings, but
others are peculiar to this pavement, and not found in other buildings in
Palestine. Several of the marks approach closely to those found on the
walls of the palace of Saaditalat, near Ispahan. It is doubtful whether
the pavement should be referred to the early Arab period or to the
Crusaders. Masons' marks (with one doubtful exception) do not appear
to occur on the octagon wall of the Dome of the Rock, where ihcty have
been sought carefully by Lieutenant Conder and others.

The Aksa.

The original basilica of Justinian, as restored by De Vogue, consisted
of a nave and four aisles, the total length north and south being 250 feet,
and the total breadth 150 feet. Several of the original pillars remain in
position, with Byzantine capitals, of which drawings are given by
Du Yogiie. ('Temple de Jerusalem,' Plate XXXI 1.)

In 1871 the plaster which covered the capitals Hanking the Mihrab in
the so-called Makam 'Amr, immediately adjoining the Aksa Mosque on
the east, was removed, and the capitals proved to be elaborately carved
specimens of Gothic work representing symbolical animals with arabesques.
These were drawn by Rev. J. Xeil, and afterwards by Captain Conder.

JERUSALEM. ■ 251

There are several other fragments of Crusading work in the Haram,
including the twisted pillars in the wall on the south-west side of the
platform, the three small altars within the Dome of the Rock, and the
capitals, with small angels' heads between the volutes, which flank the
Mihrab in the latter building.

Dome of the Chain.

The capitals in this small building (which is said to have been the
original model of the Dome of the Rock) are very various, but all of much
later style than those of the great pillars in the Dome of the Rock. They
may possibly have been carved for their present purpose, and though
elaborate specimens of tracery in stone, they are of debased style. Some
of them closely resemble in character the tracery in St. Sophia, at
Constantinople.

THE CITY.

Explorations within modern Jerusalem are rendered almost impossible
by the fact that the foundations of the modern houses are laid not on the
rock but on rubbish, so that even an unusually rainy winter is sufficient
to cause many buildings to collapse, as was notably the case in 1873-4.
There are, however, certain antiquities within the walls, which require
special notice, which have been further e.\plored since 1869.

Constantixe's Basilica.

The remains of the Propylea were recognised by Willis east of the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and close to the Via Dolorosa. In a vault
west of this street four grey granite shafts may still be seen ; they were
discovered by Schultz. They are '6 metres in diameter, and 2 '5 metres
apart. On the south at the end of this colonnade is a pier, '8 metres on
its north face, with a semi-pillar on the north side, 75 metres in diameter
and projecting '3 metres. This pilaster is about iS metres south of the
axis of the present Rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre Church, and 54 metres
east of the east end of the present church.

The remains of an ancient wall, having a corner to the south-east, run

252 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

parallel to this colonnade, about 15 feet west of it. The south face of this
wall runs cast and west, a little south of the pier above-mentioned. The
relation of this wall to the granite columns has not been determined, but
it seems possible that the pillars formed a porch, and that the wall had
gates entering into the Atrium, which is supposed by De Vogue and
Willis to have existed west of this colonnade. The wall was supposed by
Canon Williams and by De Vogiie to be the remains of the ancient
Second Wall of Jerusalem. This wall was examined in 1864 by Captain
Wilson. (See Excavation No. 6, ' Ordnance Survey Notes,' p. 74.)

The following is his account :

' Three openings were made, first by the side of the massive masonry
said to be part of the Second Wall, where the rock was reached at a depth
of 7 feet 4 inches below the pavement of large flat stones, and nothing
found but loose earth and rubbish. The lower part of the masonry was
of large stones, without the marginal draft ; the bottom course was pinned
up on the rock with smaller ones ; mortar of a bad quality, crumbling
directly it was touched, was used in building. The portion of wall running
in a north and south direction consists of a single line of large stones, with
marginal drafts, faced interiorly with stones having plain chiselled faces,
and against this a wall running east and west abuts with a straight joint.
Many pieces of broken marble casing and a fine white marble font or basin
were found by the Russians in another part of the ground. The second
opening was made under the gateway (south of the wall), to clear the two
sides and examine its construction ; on one side the arch rested on a hand
some Corinthian capital, whilst on the other it was supported by a column,
on the top of which was an unfinished capital, or block of stone, roughly
hewn into shape. On the column a large cross was cut in relief, and
beneath the arch in the doorway itself later masonry was found, something
like a small oven. The third e.xcavation was made at the foot of one of
the granite columns, at the north end of the Bazaar ; the column is set on
a pedestal of the limestone of the neighbourhood, but the rubbish could
not be cleared all round it.'

Two photographs were taken, and a plan made showing the relative
position of the buildings. (Plate XX., Fig. 8, Ordnance Survey.)
These remains were subsequently visited and described by Lieutenant
Conder in 1872.

JERUSALEM. 253

The gateway where the second excavation was made is a distinct
structure south of the wall and columns. It has been drawn by De
Vogue ('Temple de Jerusalem,' p. 120), and is evidently a Byzantine
reconstruction with older materials. The arch is about 8 feet in diameter,
semicircular, with 9 voussoirs, and facing east on an axis parallel to that
of the granite colonnade. The wall continues north of the arch about
8 feet, terminating in a pilaster with a capital level with the crown of the
arch. This capital, like that under the north haunch of the arch, is also
Corinthian, but is much damaged. There are six courses of stones in
this wall, the whole being of good ashlar, not drafted, and resembling the
Byzantine work in the Haram. The capitals are about 2 feet 4 inches
high and 32 inches broad at the top ; the stones in the wall are about
2\ feet high. The general appearance of the arch and wall is that of the
southern half of .a triple portico, but there can be no question that it is a
reconstruction, for the courses composing the northern pilaster are jointed
in a very awkward manner into the rest of the wall, the horizontal joints
of the masonry being at different levels.

The wall of drafted masonry north of this archway is very superior in
character. It is visible on the north side of a courtyard containing the
archway. The part running east and west consists of three courses, and
presents a buttress facing south, 5 feet broad, and forming the original
south-east angle of the building, the continuation of the wall eastwards
having no bond. This buttress resembles those described in the Haram,
and consists of drafted stones, the largest measuring 5 feet by i\ feet in
height, the face being smooth on the boss. The projection of the buttress
is also, as in the Haram, due to the bevelled set-back of the wall west of
it. A careful examination of this drafted work showed, however, that the
dressing, though careful, was entirely different from that of the Haram
masonry.

The wall running north from the buttress is 3^ feet thick, the stones
about 2\ feet to 2 feet high and 3,^ feet long. The bevelled set-back in
the south wall consists also of drafted stones, but above it is smaller
undrafted masonry, on one stone of which a cross and a cross croisd are
cut, apparently^^T^^V/ of pilgrims. The general impression which resulted
from this e.xamination was that the corner in question was probably early
Christian work, in imitation of the Haram masonry, and that the buttress

254 Tin: SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

marks the south-cast angle of the Atrium of Constantine's Basilica, the
pillars to the east being remains of the Propylea in front of the Atrium
doorways.

TlIF. MURISTAN.

('Quarterly Statement,' 1872, p. 100; 1S73, p. 19 ; 1875, p. 77.)
In ihc centra; of motkrn Jerusalem is an area about 150 yards square
south of the Holy Sepulchre Church. The eastern half of this area was
given to the German Government by the Sultan in 1869, and the Emperor
ordered this part of the area to be cleared out. The western half is still
covered with diibris to a depth of some 20 feet, and before the excavations
commenced the greater part of the area was occupied by a ploughed field,
beneath which the massive piers and walls were found. The chapel and
hospital of the Knights of St. John still remain to be e.xcavated under the
ddbris on the west ; the Church of St. Mary the Great, and the abbey
attached to it on the south, occupy the eastern part of the area. The
whole enclosure, now known as the Muristan, or ' hospital for the insane,' is
bounded by David Street on the south, by the Street of Palmers on the
north, by Christian Street on the west, and by the bazaars — the mediaeval
INIalcuisinat— on the east. A fine arcade of groined vaults and pointed
arches, resting on massive piers of drafted masonry with rustic bosses,
forms the boundary of the enclosure on the south, opening on David
Street. The Byzantine Church of St. John the Forerunner stands at the
south-west angle at the corner of David Street and Christian Street. The
mosque and minaret of 'Amr at the north-west angle possibly occupies
the site of the chapel of the Hospital, which appears to have been very
near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. St. Mary the Great occupies
the north-east angle, and was built about 1 130 a.d. It is remarkable for
the fine double north doorway, a Gothic structure with a round arch,
having representations of the twelve months, with their names. These
are carefully reproduced by De Vogile (' Eglises de la Terre Sainte,' Plate
X\TII., p. 260). The windows and south door of the church have also
round arches with a curious chess-pattern ornamentation. The founda-
tions of the piers of the nave were found when the church was cleared in
1872, and the floor proved to be of marble mosaic, part of which remains
still in place. The masonry of the w^alls is very finely cut, and presents

JERUSALEM. 255

many examples of the mediaeval diagonal dressing and masons' marks ; the
lines of the dressing are, however, often vertical or horizontal. The
church consisted of a nave and two aisles, of four bays with three apses.
The south wall of the church has been thickened on the south side at a
later date than that of the Crusading work, and a little stairway leading to
an Arab doorway runs up this wall to the level of the upper story of the
southern cloisters. Under the south wall was found a grave containing
bones and remains of Crusading date ; one of the skulls had a deep sword
cut across it, and it would appear that some knight, killed probably by the
blow, was buried beneath the church wall. The belfry tower is at the
south-west angle of the church ; and in the west wall of the cloisters,
immediately south of this, there is a fine Gothic window with a low-pointed
arch (see Lieutenant Kitchener's photograph).

The cloisters south of the church are mainly an Arab reconstruction
of the fifteenth century, and more rudely built than the mediaeval work.
The masonry here examined in 1875 was found to have no masons'
marks. The piers, with small attached columns in the north cloister, and
two on the east, appear, however, to be of the twelfth century. The
remaining vaults and piers discovered during excavation are shown on the
plan.

It should be noted that the bazaar east of this church and abbey is also
mainly a medieeval structure ; the roofing consists of groined vaults with
flat ribs, and the walls have the mediaeval dressing, while an inscription
on the west wall (see paper on inscriptions, No. X.) seems to indicate
that the property belonged to the Church of St. Anne. The traces of
mediaeval work continue north of this bazaar on both sides of the covered
street which is called Khan ez Zeit, and which forms part of the Via
Dolorosa. At the angle of Khan ez Zeit and 'Akabet et Takiyeh, a fine
mediaeval vault exists ; and further north, on the east side of Khan ez
Zeit Street, is a pointed arch of stones with the diagonal dressing, having
a crozier-like mark on one voussoir —

probably an indication of ecclesiastical property,

25^ THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The Hospital of St. John was still standins^ in 1322, when Sir John
Maundevilk; describes it. A street divided the Hospital from the church
and abbey, running south opposite the south door of the Holy Sepulchre
Church. It is specially described in documents of the twelfth century.
In 1 1 74 .x.i)., the King gave the western side to the hospital and the
opposite side to the abbey of St. Mary. The remains of vaults opening

^VvV^A.</'-v/i_l_jX\/T^x/

2 ^

into a passage running north and south immediately west of the church
evidently indicate the line of the street in question. The latest part of the
great group of buildings appears to be that on the south-east, south of the
cloisters ; differences of masonry and straight joints were here observed,
and the arches of the arcade in David Street are pointed. This southern
arcade is believed by De Voglie to be mentioned in the Cartulary of the
Holy Sepulchre (1144 a.d.), where are mentioned the ' Voltas Concambii
Hospitalis . . . in via quee ducit ad Montem Sion.' It is, however, perhaps
more probable that the bazaar on the east is really intended.

The masonry of the piers in the southern portion of the area is
very fine, the stones being of large size and very carefully dressed
with a point. A great many masons' marks have been collected in
the Muristan at different times, and are here given, being valuable for
comparison.

There is a magnificent double cistern, 70 feet deep, occupying the
.southern part of the area, and extending east and west for a length
of 100 feet. In the bottom of this the rock was found falling gentlv

JERUSALE}r. 257

eastwards, with steps in one or two places. The He of the rock is
shown in the sections which accompany Herr Schick's plan of the
Muristan. In 1876 he was able further to examine the lie of the rock
in another large cistern east of the bazaars and of the Church of St. Mary
the Great.

Excavations were made in the Muristan by Sir C. Warren in 1867.
A trench was dug, 350 feet long north and south, about 200 feet from the
cast boundary of the enclosure. The average depth was 25 feet, and
shafts 40 feet deep were sunk in two places near the south without
reaching rock. Rock was found at a level 2,430 in a shaft 70 feet deep,
just west of the west wall of the church of Sta. Maria Majora (No. 221 of
the Register), and at 2,450 in a tank in the north-west corner of the
Muristan.

The following is Herr Schick's account of his explorations in the
Muristan :

No. I on the [ilan is a shaft sunk to ascertain whether any vault
existed beneath. It was driven through earth, with a strong wall
on the south running east and west. At 1 1 feet from the surface the wall
rested on earth for 3 feet, with shingle beneath, to a total depth of 2 1 feet
from the surface, when a wall of large hewn stones was reached, and the
shaft was stopped.

No. 2 was a shaft sunk to ascertain if any tank existed. Only earth
was found to a depth of 13 feet, when the shaft was abandoned.

No. 3 was sunk through the roof of a vault with a groined vaulting.
This vaulting rested on a fine arch of cut stones (a Crusading arrange-
ment).

No. 4, a shaft sunk 2^- feet to a pavement, beneath which, at 5 feet,
flagstones covering a drain were found. The drain was followed, leading
to a larger conduit (No. 33 on plan), which is 2 feet 3 inches wide and
6 feet high. It runs to the sewer (No. 34) under David Street. The
other end of the passage could not be explored, being stopped by fallen
stones, and within the property of the Greek Convent.

No. 5, a shaft again meeting the pavement 2^^ feet beneath the surface,
with a strong wall on the west side. The flagging of the pavement was
removed, and a cistern found beneath, with three arches of hewn stone
supporting flat flagging, which formed the roof. This cistern (No. 32)

258 Tlir. SURVEY or WESTERN PALESTINE.

had its bottom 28 Wx-X beneath the present surface. The shaft was sunk
20 feet beneath the lloor, and rock found at a depth of 48 feet 9 inches
beneath the surface in David Street.

No. 6, a shaft sunk south of a conduit (No. 41), with a wall on the
south. The conduit bends northwards, and was thought to have commu-
nicated with the western part of the large tank (No. 26 on plan). The
shaft was sunk lower than the conduit through earth, and 12 feet from the
surface another wall was found, and at 21 feet a lower conduit (No. 30 on
plan), which ran east for 120 feet, when it was choked by the fall of the
roof (lagging. This conduit was i foot 10 inches wide and 4 feet high.
The masonry was very little worn. Two other passages {a, b) enter
from the north.

No. 7, a shaft sunk through red earth and stones — apparently remains
of a brick kiln — -to solid earth. This shaft was abandoned at a depth of
23 feet from the surface.

No. 8, a shaft sunk to examine No. 40 on the plan^ which proved to
be an old oven. It was driven through earth to a depth of 24 feet from
the surface and left open.

No. 9, near the tombs found under the south wall of the church.
The shaft here sunk passed through 3 feet of earth, and then through
shingle. The work was abandoned at 1 1 feet from the surface.

No. 10 was sunk in search of a crypt beneath the church apse, but
only cross walls were found, resting on earth, at a depth of 14 feet.

No. II, sunk to examine Cistern No. 31 on the plan, was driven
through earth with a well-built wall on the north to a depth of 26 feet,
and then abandoned.

No. 12, west of Cistern No. 31 on the plan, was driven through earth
and abandoned at a depth of about 30 feet.

No. 13 reached a water conduit a few feet beneath the surface,
and was only sunk 13 feet, encountering masonry of no great importance.

No. 14. — Sunk 13 feet through earth without result.

No. 15 reached a cesspool west of Cistern No. 24, 14 feet deep, with-
out any roof. The floor was broken through, and it was found to rest on
earth beneath.

No. 16.— -Sunk 1 1 feet beside a wall running east and west, and founded
on earth at that depth.

JERUSALEM. 259

No. 17. — A large stone trough, standing on solid masonry, was ex-
amined, and foundations of small stones discovered beneath.

No. 18. — A circular building, 7 feet in diameter, was found, full of red
earth and clay. It was apparently a well for kneading clay, and dates
from the Arab period.

Nos. 19, 20. — Sunk in the central apse of the church without result.
(Cf. No. 10.)

No. 21. — The foundations of the south-west angle of the church here
rested on rock 30 feet beneath the surface.

No. 22. — A cistern with the lower part cut in rock 30 feet beneath the
surface.

Nos. 23, 24, 25. — Cisterns with floors 20 to 24 feet beneath the surface.
They are entirely of masonry.

No. 26. — The great double cistern or tank in the south-east part of
the enclosure. It has a barrel vaulting of mediseval masonry, and the
floor is of rock. There are several manholes in the roof, and two large
slits in the masonry, apparently intended for wheels used in raising
water (like the modern Naurah of the Arabs, in the gardens of Jaffa
and Ramleh called Beiyarahs, or ' well-places '). The section of rock
here exposed in the bed of the Tyropoeon is the most important within
the walls of the modern city. The cistern was visited by Lieutenant
Conder in 1873.

No. 27. — A conduit in the east wall of this cistern near the bottom
leads out eastwards; perhaps leading to another tank. A vertical shaft
leads up from it towards the surface.

No. 28. — Two connections here occur with Cistern No. 37.

No. 29 marks the position of the waterwheels in No. 26.

No. 30 (see No. 6). — This number marks the lower conduit.

No. 31. — A well in the property of the Greek Convent has a conduit
(No. 35) bringing water from the direction of David Street.

No. 32 (see No. 5). — This number marks the cistern.

No. 33 marks the conduit described under No. 4.

No. 34. — The main sewer under David Street.

No. 35. — The conduit to No. 31.

No. 36. — Brick (or pottery) pipes bringing water from the west,
apparently to a bath.

CiC

26o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

No. '^']. — An ancicnl cislcni, wiih three mouths in the vaulted roof.
It appears to be unfinished.

No. 38. — An old cesspool, apparently belonging to the latrines of the
Abbey.

No. 39. — An arch supporting the southern wall of the arcades.

No. 40. — A piece of masonry belonging to the oven. (See No. 8.)

No. 41. — A conduit leading to No. 26. (See No. 6.)

No. 42. — A pier which shows evidence of having been built at two
distinct periods.

No. 43. — A similar enlarged pier stood here, but has been re-
moved.

No. 44. — Tomb of a Moslem W'ely.

No. 45. — A Scbil, or public drinking fountain.

No. 46 marks on the section the line of the rubbish before ex-
cavation.

No. 47. — The Moslem stairway on the south wall of the church.

No. 48. — The modern Lutheran chapel, in the upper story of the
cloisters.

Hcrr Schick considers that the buildings were divided into several
blocks, roofed in, and with narrow lanes between, including that west of
the church already noticed.

No inscriptions appear to have been found, except one on a pier
south of the cloisters, which may possibly mark the site of a grave in the
cloister. (See Paper on ' Inscriptions,' No. 34.) The objects found
with bones and skulls in the grave near the church were of mediitval date
and of very little interest or value.

The following is the account of the cistern east of the bazaar given to

Colonel Sir C. Wilson by Herr Schick ('Quarterly Statement,' 1877,

p. 9) :

' It appears that some time last year the ground at a point a little east of the bazaars
suddenly gave way, carrying with it a fig-tree and several bushes of cactus, and leaving a large
crater or depression in the surface. For some months occasional earth-slips took place, and
it became evident that the debris was finding its way into one or more subterranean chambers ;
the ground was at the time considered too dangerous for examination, but last summer Herr
Schick was requested by the Pacha to investigate the whole matter. It soon appeared that the
earth had been running away into a great chamber over 100 feet long and 17 feet 6 inches
wide, and that the cause of the slip had been the sudden fall of a portion of the covering

JERUSALEM. 261

arch. The interesting point is, that in the floor of the chamber, which is entirely of rock, we
have presented to view a larger area of the original surface of the ground on which Jerusalem
stands than has hitherto been exposed within the city walls.* We have, too, not only the
depth of rubbish at a point near which there were few previous rock levels, but the actual
fall of the rock over a distance of 100 feet in a north and south direction, or combined
with the known level of the rock in the street to the north, a section over more than
200 feet.

' I was hardly prepared for the great accumulation of rubbish, So feet, at this particular
place, or for the rapid fall in the rock, i in 4, towards the south, which seems to indicate
that the valley running eastward from near the Jaffa Gate is deeper than has generally been
supposed, and that it may perhaps partake of the ravine nature of the valley examined by
Captain Warren under Robinson's Arch. The section from east to west, though only 1 7 feet
6 inches long, is of value as showing a steady fall of the rock towards the east, and thus
indicating that the axis of the spur between the valleys from the Jaffa and Damascus Gates
has been passed.

' Herr Schick's investigation has also proved that the bazaar called on the Ordinance Map
of Jerusalem, tt-Vu scale, Suk al Khowajat, formerly extended as far north as the other two
bazaars, and has brought more prominently to notice the great depth of rubbish on which all
the bazaars stand.

' The long cistern or chamber is parallel to the bazaars, and as it was evidently not
originally intended to be used as a cistern, we may perhaps have in it the line of one of the
streets of ancient Jerusalem. The chamber, at any rate, offers a favourable base of operations
for an exploration of this part of the city, as galleries could be driven in several directions to
examine the ground. 't

HUMMAM ESH ShEFA.

' The Bath of Healing': the curious well, we.st of the Haram, described
in the 'Ordnance Survey Notes' (pp. 60, 85, Plate XXII.). It was
revisited in 1S71 by Dr. T. Chaplin.

' A few days ago I received a visit from Herr Victor zur Helle, of Vienna, who informed
me that he had been able to enter the hitherto unexplored southern passage of the 'Ain
es Shefa, and had followed it to its termination, 96 feet from its commencement. He had
lost his compass in the water, and consequently could not be certain of the exact direction
of the passage, but believed it to be south-west. As the water is seldom so low as to admit
of an examination of this canal, and the winter rains, which are now anxiously looked for,
may soon close it again, I took the earliest opportunity of descending, and the following are
the notes of my observations :

' The descent was made on the 29th of November, 1870. The passage commences at
the southern end of the western wall of the basin. It runs 43 feet 6 inches in a direction

* Except in the great cistern in the Muristan, No. 26, above noticed,
t The levels of the rock in this cistern are 2,440 at the north end, and 2,420 at the south
in feet above the Mediterranean level.

26 J THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

264', 13 feet 5 inches 260', 5 feet 4 inches 181', 12 feet 6 inches 245', and, lastly,
27 feet 6 inches 174°, its entire length being about 102 feet. At its termination it is
blocked up by fallen, or most irregularly constructed, masonry, and has no basin. A stick
could be thrust in under the blocks of stone for about 3 feet, but no continuation of the
passage could be made out. The floor slopes towards each end, the highest part being
about the middle. At the entrance, and for some 20 feet beyond, the water was a little over
knee-deep ; in the middle the passage was nearly dry, and at the further extremity the water
reached 6 or 8 inches above the knees. The canal is 4 feet high and 3 feet broad at the
entrance, and of about the same dimensions throughout, except where narrowed by fallen
masonry, or widened or made higher by the disappearance of the walls or roof. Only at one
spot was there any difficulty in passing. The walls are of rough masonry, some of the stones
being of large size. The roof, where perfect, is of thick broad blocks of limestone, laid
across. No arches, columns, or ornamented stones were observed. The rock could not be
detected anywhere, though it is possible that it may in some places form the floor. Plaster
still covers portions of the sides and floor, but the passage is in a very ruinous condition.
Water was observed trickling down from between the stones of the southern wall, at a spot
not far from the entrance, and the sides and roof were in some places very wet, in others
nearly dry. No appearance of a fountain was discovered, though carefully searched for.

' Advantage was taken of the low state of the water to examine the basin somewhat more
minutely than has (I believe) hitherto been possible. It was found to measure, from north to
south, in the middle, 1 1 feet 9 inches ; from east to west, in the middle, 6 feet 6 inches ; from
east to west, opposite the entrance to the lower passage, 5 feet 10 inches. The floor is of
rock at the northern part ; how far the rock extends to the south could not be ascertained, in
consequence of the depth of the water. The walls are everywhere of rough irregular masonry.
Plaster still remains on the northern and southern sides ; that on the latter being continuous
with that of the lower passage. The plastered surface on the northern side extends farther
to the east and west than the side walls which abut upon it. The plaster is made with small
white stones, instead of the usual pounded pottery. Water was trickling in a rather copious
stream from under the masonry on the east side of the northern passage at its termination,
and it was observed that here the masonry rests upon plaster, from between which and the
stones the water was running. Further north, also in this passage, the walls rest upon a
plastered surface.

' It can hardly, perhaps, be said that the mystery which has attached to this remarkable
well is even now entirely removed ; yet every fresh observation tends to confirm the opinion
that its 7i'aUr is d(rived solely from the percolation of the rains through the debris upon ivhich
the city is built. There is no evidence to show that it proceeded originally from a subter-
ranean source ; and it is not likely that, if a fountain had existed here in ancient times, it
could have escaped mention by either the sacred or profane writers. Probably there was
ormerly a pool near this situation, into which the water coming down the valley (which
drains a large extent of surface) was carefully conducted. After the destruction of the city,
and the consequent filling up of the pool, the water would still find its way down to the
same spot, and either well up to the surface or be reached by means of a shaft. As the
level of the city continued to rise, a longer shaft would be required, and thus in tlie course
of ages, what was at first a superficial collection of water would become converted into a
deep well.'— Tho. Chaplin, M.D., ' Quarterly Statement,' 1S71, pp. 101-103.

lERUSALEM. 26

The followinof is Sir C. Wilson's account :

' The Esh Shefa well is near the Bab el Kattanin of the Haram, and
supplies the Turkish bath there. On descending the well the different
styles of architecture were very noticeable — semicircular arches at the
bottom, pointed ones higher up, and near the top the later additions of
the present day, the shaft seeming to have grown upwards as the rubbish
increased. The passage is covered by arches of different sizes, and has
been made at various times ; the portion cut in the rock seems to be of
great antiquity, and was probably connected with the water system of
the old city. The water was reported to have failed during the winter of
1864-5, but arrangements could not be made for paying it a second visit.
The plan and section show the details.

' The Esh Shefa well supplies the Turkish baths in the old Cotton
Market. From the bottom of the shaft a channel cut in the rock, and
vaulted with masonry, leads down in a southerly direction to a small
cave or basin, from which the water is obtained in summer by a man who
descends for the purpose. No leakage was visible at the side of the
passage, but the greater portion of the water probably passes through the
deep rubbish above, and thus acquires the peculiar Siloam flavour. The
supply and quality cannot well be improved.'

The rock is So feet beneath the surface, at a level 2,339 feet above
the Mediterranean. The peculiar llavour of the Siloam and other
waters in or near Jerusalem appears to be due to the infiltration of

Aqueduct to the Twin Pools.

This aqueduct, leading from a pit outside the Damascus Gate, was
discovered in 1S71. (See 'Quarterly Statement,' 1872, p. 47.) It is from
2\ to 3 feet wide, and in places more than 12 feet high. It is throughout
high enough to allow a man to pass along it ; it is partly hewn in rock,
and partly of masonry, with an arched roof, in which are man-holes, now
closed, which once led to the surface. It appears to have crossed the pit
east of the Damascus Gate, and is probably older than this pit ; but
although surface drains have been found on the west side of the knoll

264 THE Sl'R\-EY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

1)1" [cremiiih's Grotto, which may have led to this channel, no remains
of the aqueduct have been found west or north of the gate, where building
has been going on for the last ten years. The upper part of the aqueduct
was destroyed in building the modern city wall, which stands on older
foundations. This aqueduct, with its continuation south of the Twin
Pools, may have been constructed to supply the Temple cisterns. It is
at a much higher level than that near the Prophet's Gate. The levels
arc given by Colonel \\'arrcn in speaking of the Twin Pools.

KuLAT Jali;d.

' Goliath's Castle,' the name now given to the tower in the north-
west angle of the mediaeval city, known in the twelfth century as
Tancred's Tower. It has been supposed by Felix Fabri, and by more
recent authorities, to mark the site of the tower of Psephinus. A plan
of the building was made by Lewin, and another by Colonel Wilson.
(' Ordnance Survey Notes,' Plate XXVU.) It was visited and described
by Lieutenant Conder in 1872 ('Quarterly Statement,' 1872, p. 166),
and in 1S77 a new plan was made by Lieutenant Kitchener at the time
when a new Latin school was erected on the site. (See ' Quarterly
Statement,' 1878, p. 78.)

The following is Sir C. Wilson's account (' Ordnance Survey Notes,'

P- 73) :

' Excavation No. IV. This was made at the ruins of el Jali'id, or

Goliath's Castle, in the north-west angle of the city. The plans and
sections will show the details of what was discovered : the trench on the
west uncovered a peculiar re-entering angle formed of large stones with
drafted margins ; on examining this it was found that they must have
been built at different periods, the line A, B, faced with large stones, and
running into the mass of masonry, first, and the line C, I), which forms
the present facing of the tower, afterwards ; there is no bond between the
two masses : a straight joint being left in the direction C, B, the space
between the two lines of facing stones is filled in with small rubble
masonry, and the backing to the older line. A, B, is of the same descrip-
tion. Both rows of large stones are bedded and jointed with mortar ; the
chiselled drafts are from 2 inches to 5 inches wide, and the faces are left

JERUSALEM.

265

rough, projecting from 4 to 6 inches. The Hne D, C, if produced
towards C, would cut the north-east angle of the so-called Tower of
David, in the Citadel, and if produced towards D, would pass through
the remains (of ancient walls) near Mr. Bergheim's house.

' Within the Castle there is a vaulted chamber of modern date, and
the floor of this was broken through in consequence of a rumour that
there were vaults beneath. The report proved to be correct, for on
creeping through the hole a chamber nearly filled with rubbish was
reached, and near the east end of this an open doorway led to two other
chambers, in which two piers or towers, constructed of large stones with
drafted margins, were found. From the appearance of the masonry they

must have existed before the present building, which is built on to it. At
first they were thought to be part of an old wall, or the towers of a
gateway ; but, taking everything into consideration, it seems more pro-
bable that they were solid piers supporting the groined roof of a chamber
beneath some tower of mediaeval date ; piers of the same character, built
with old material, and supporting groined roofs, are seen in several places
in the city. In this case the groined roof seems to have been destroyed
and replaced by a plain pointed arch, to carry which the piers have been
connected by substantial party walls, which divide the original chamber
into two. The drafts are between 2 and 3 inches broad, and the facing
left rough. All the covering arches are pointed. The doorway between

266 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

the two chambers is of the same style as the one found in the Citadel, the
stones of the pointed arch having a chiselled draft run round their
margins. There is a large accumulation of dry mud in the chambers, and
an excavation was made through this to the floor, which was found to be
of rock, covered with a thick layer of cement. The northern faces of the
piers could not be found, although the rubbish was cleared away from
the place where they should have been.

' Nothing found at El Jalud seemed to be earlier than the Saracenic
or Crusading period, except, perhaps, the piers, and there was no trace of
the foundation of any large octagonal building ; there is so much rubbish,
however, at this angle of the city, that it would require a regular system
of excavation on a large scale to explore it thoroughly ; another chamber
would probably be discovered north of the two that were found.'

Subsequent exploration during the building of the schools has
confirmed the conclusions of Colonel Wilson. The original tower
appears to have been a square of about loo feet side, reaching north-
wards to the line of the present city wall. Two piers, similar to those
found by Colonel Wilson, were found, as he suspected, north of the
northern of the two parallel vaults which he explored. The four piers,
and the east and south walls of the Castle, are apparently of one date, and
the parallel vaults with tunnel roofs are later. The tower presents all
the appearance of a square Crusading fortress, with walls 12 feet thick,
consisting of rubble faced with fine ashlar of drafted stones. The stones
are not of great size, being 2 feet 4 inches high, and 4 feet long. The
southernmost vault measures 24 feet north and south, by 53 feet east and
west. The two ancient piers arc visible in the north-west angle, and in
the middle of the north wall. This wall is a partition about 4 feet thick,
built at an angle, so that it covers part of the western pier. The
masonry is small, and together with the vault above appears to be
perhaps Arab work. There is an entrance into this vault from the east,
closed by more modern masonry. On the west another entrance leads to
a chamber, measuring 26 feet east and west, by 24 feet north and south.
The arch of the door consists of five fine drafted stones, with the boss
dressed ; the arch is pointed, and the voussoirs have evidently been cut
for their present purpose. Although the dividing off of this chamber
may perhaps have been accomplished later than the original period of the

JERUSALEM. 267

building of the tower, the masonry, compared with the Crusading work of
'Athlit, Kaukab el Hawa, Kulat el Hosn, Kiildt es Subeibeh, etc., etc.,
is evidently to be ascribed to the twelfth century. The original vaulted
substructures of the tower, as will be seen from the plan, appear to have
consisted of three rows of three bays each, probably with groined roofs—
a construction common in the mediaeval towers and great tanks. The
identification of this tower with Psephinus is not confirmed by the
discovery of any really ancient masonry, while the original shape now
proves to have been a square, whereas Psephinus is described by
Josephus as an octagon.

In 1S77 the rubbish was removed, and the old work laid bare to the
floor. Two of the stones in the piers measure ']\ feet by 2 feet 8 inches,
by 2 feet 4 inches high, and 8^ feet by 2 feet 9 inches, by 2 feet 4 inches
high. The draft varies from 3^ inches to 4 inches. A thin bed of very
hard mortar divides the courses ; the bosses in some instances project
8 inches ; the four courses of drafted stones measure 9 feet 4 inches in
total height. Masonry as large as this is not uncommon in Crusading
work, although it is possible in this case that old material was used.

Tower of David (so-called).

This is one of the most conspicuous monuments of the city, described
by every writer on Jerusalem, and identified with Hippicus by earlier
writers, and with Phasaelus by most of the later authorities. It measures
about 54 feet north and south, by 68 feet east and west (see Plan,
'Ordnance Survey Notes,' Plate III.), and is situated 130 feet from the
north-west corner tower of the Citadel, which measures about 50 feet
square. The size of David's Tower thus roughly agrees with the
dimensions of Phasaelus, which was 40 cubits, or about 53 feet, square
according to Josephus. It is also remarkable that Josephus describes a
cloister 10 cubits above the base, which 'went round about, and it was
covered from enemies by breast-works and bulwarks.' (5 Wars, iv. 3.)
A similar outwork still exists round the north and east faces of the
so-called Tower of David, and although the battlements of the wall of
this chemin des rondes (as it would be called in a modern fortification)
appear to be modern, while the sloping outer scarp with drafted masonry

34—2

268 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

of moderate size appears (like the sloping scarp of Caesarea, etc.) to be
mediitval, yet this masonry may very probably be only a facing to the
original work of the old cloister.

Sir C. Wilson, in describing the modern Citadel, of which the
two above-mentioned towers form the northern defence, speaks thus
(' Ordnance Survey Notes,' p. 46) : —

' The so-called Tower of David appears to be the oldest part of the
Citadel : it has a sloping escarp of masonry, round the top of which runs
a berm, or chcmin des rondcs, and above which the tower rises in a solid
mass to the height of 29 feet ; upon this the present superstructure is
raised. The escarp is faced with large stones, and retains to some
extent its original appearance ; but time and hard treatment have worn
away much of the fine work, and the repairs have been executed in a
very slovenly manner. . . No entrance, or appearance of one, could be
discovered in the solid masonry of the basement portion of the tower,
though it was carefully searched for ; although many of the stones are
much the worse for wear, they appear to be in their original positions,
and to have been set without mortar. When repairs have been necessary
from decay of the material or fracture of the masonry, they have been
made with small stones set in mortar. The marginal draft on these
stones is wider than usual, being 4 to 5 inches ; and the dressing of the
faces seems never to have been finished, as many of the stones are left
in the rough state. (The attached sketch in the ' Ordnance Survey
Notes ' gives a height of 4 feet 2 inches for one of the courses.)

' Above the solid block of masonry there is a plinth course, and over
this the superstructure, which contains several chambers and a cistern ;
the cistern rests on the solid masonry, and is supplied entirely by
rainfall ; in one of the chambers is shown the INIihrab of David, marking,
according to Moslem tradition, the place where David composed the
Psalms. In the superstructure, which is badly built, there is a mixture of
stones with the marginal draft, and those with plain chiselled faces all set
in mortar ; and over the main gateway a very unpleasant effect has been
produced by suddenly bringing the masonry of the upper part to the face
of the large stones, instead of keeping it back on the plinth course. . .

' The interior of the tower near the saluting battery (north-west tower
of the Citadel) consists of one large chamber covered with a pointed arch ;

JERUSALEM. 269

the masonry appears to be a reconstruction ; most of the stones have a
deeply chiselled draft round their margins, with the faces left rough and
turned inwards towards the chamber ; from this a passage, the entrance
to which is now closed, apparently led into the ditch. Within the
chamber there is a cistern, and a second at the entrance of the tower,
which were described as being of great size and always containing a good
supply of water ; when visited they were too full of water to admit of
exploration ; they are supplied partly by surface drainage, and partly by
a branch of the aqueduct from the Birket Mamilla, which, after passing in
front of the Jaffa Gate, crosses the ditch on a wall, and then runs into the
y tower and cisterns. Whilst examining the portion of the aqueduct in the

ditch, the remains of a conduit were found beneath the Jaffa Gate, and
1 2 feet below the level of the present one.'

With respect to this aqueduct, it should be noted that Josephus
(5 Wars, vii. 2) speaks of the ' gate where water was brought in to the
tower Hippicus.' If the larger eastern tower represent Phasaelus, the
north-west tower of the Citadel very probably stands on the site of
Hippicus, These Royal Towers were left standing by Titus (7 Wars,
i. i), and only destroyed in 1239 by Daud, Emir of Kerak. David's
Tower was called the Castle of the Pisans in the Middle Aees, but the
solid base appears to belong to the Herodian period.

In 1874, Mr. Tyrwhitt Drake and Herr Schick visited the tower
together, and in the same year, as well as in 1882, it was examined by
Captain Conder.

Mr. Drake gives some additional information (' Quarterly Statement,'
1874, p. 64). Seven courses are visible above the scarp to the plinth.
' On some of the stones there is a double draft, which, being in an un-
finished state, leads to the conclusion that the draft was worked after the
stones had been set in their places. The width of the draft, as I measured
it in many places, was 3, 4, 6, or 7 inches, the greater breadth being
always at the sides or bottom, usually the latter. The height of the
courses varies from 4 feet i inch to 4 feet 2 inches. The following are
the lengths of several stones which I measured : 8 feet, 5 feet 2 inches,
9 feet 2 inches, 13 feet 7 inches, 9 feet 5 inches, 10 feet 9 inches, 14 feet ;
while the breadth at the north-east corner varied from 3 feet 7 inches to
3 feet 8 inches.'

270 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Subsequent exploration on the part of Herr Schick led to the discovery
of a passage in the solid part of the tower. It is formed by leaving out a
line of stones in the fourth course above the level of the top of the scarp.
The entrance is from the west, and the height corresponds with the
height of a single course (4 feet 2 inches). It runs irregularly eastwards
nearly to the middle of the tower. The stones in the interior had plain
faces, and were irregularly laid with wide joints.

The market-place east of the fosse which surrounds the Citadel appears
to be supported on vaults ; an entrance exists to these through a closed
gate in the counterscarp south-east of the Tower of David. An examina-
tion of these vaults, were it permitted by the Turks, would be of con-
siderable interest, as a communication might be found with the passage
about to be noticed, while it is also possible that the foundations of the
unknown Tower of Mariamne may yet be discovered in this direction.

The Great Passage on the Modern Sion.

The following is Sir C. Wilson's account (' Ordnance Survey Notes,'
p. 60) :

' In the house of the Rev. J. Barclay, incumbent of Christ Church,
there is a shaft by which access is obtained to a passage running east and
west under the Mission premises. The rock was found here to be 34 feet
below the yard in front of the church ; the passage has been cemented,
and in its original state was probably a water- conduit or drain ; the roof
is in places of large flat stones, in others of a sort of rough vaulting with
large stones as shown on sketch. It seems doubtful, however, whether
any portion of this formed part of the original covering. At the western
end is a closed shaft reaching nearly to the surface, and at this point the
passage turns off to the left for a short distance, when it is closed by
rubbish ; the eastern end is closed by the falling in of the roof. A great
portion of the passage is cut out of the rock.'

The total length given by Sir C. Wilson (Plate XXI.) is 265 feet,
exclusive of the bend on the west, which is 14 feet long. The width
varies from i foot 5 inches to 2 feet i inch. The bottom is 37 feet
4 inches beneath the surface in the shaft under the house. The rock is
generally 2 to 5 feet above the bottom for about 90 feet from the west

JERUSALEM. 271

end, when it disappears altogether. The west end is entirely rock-cut, the
channels being here only some 3 feet high. The masonry is of inferior
quality, and the vaulting very rude. The passage was discovered by
Herr Schick in 1S60, when the church was built. It was visited by
Lewin in 1862 (see 'Siege of Jerusalem,' p. 206). He gives the
height of the passage as 6 feet. The passage is perhaps part of that
mentioned by Mejr ed Din as extending from the Citadel to the Gate of
the Chain. The level of the secret passage found by Colonel Warren
outside the Gate of the Chain was 2,400. The level of the floor of the
passage under consideration is about 2,504 towards the west end ; the
distance between these observations is about 1,400 feet, so that if the
two passages are connected, there must be a drop or steep slope in some
part of the line.

Ancient Towers on the Modern Sign.

The discoveries made of the level of the rock in different places along
the line of the street called Harat ed Dawayeh, south of David Street,
and further east in the Harat esh Sharah, appear clearly to indicate a sort
of scarp or very steep slope facing northwards, and running parallel to
David Street on the south. During the erection of the Mission School
(marked No. 67 on the Ordnance Survey) the remains of two old towers
in a line east and west were found immediately north of the Harat ed
Dawayeh (see Lewin's 'Siege of Jerusalem,' pp. 215-217). They are
now hidden beneath recently constructed cisterns. The western tower
had an interior measurement of 9 feet east and west by 8 feet north and
south, with a doorway 5 feet wide on the west side. The floor was
36 feet beneath the level of the street (or about 2,470 above the
Mediterranean). The supposed door had a round arch 18 feet above the
floor at the soffit of the crown ; and there was a second arch 8 feet above
this. The second building was 64 feet to the east, corresponding in
dimensions, but without any door ; projecting stones in the wall seemed
to indicate an internal stair. South of these towers, and between them,
were remains of a massive wall of masonry, smaller than that of the
Haram, and not drafted. There are at present no means of judging the
antiquity of these remains.

2 7 2 THE SUR VE Y OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Remains in the Jews' Quarter.

In May, 1872, Mr. C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake examined some remains in
tlie Jews' Quarter pointed out to him by Dr. T. Chaplin ; these were again
visited by Captain Conder and Dr. Chaplin in 1881. They appear to
have escaped the observation of the Due de Voglie, whose work on the
churches of the Holy Land contains careful descriptions of all the other
Crusading remains as yet known in Jerusalem.

The first of these remains is a chapel, now converted into a living
room, in the house of a Morocco Jew. It is situated on the south side of
the street called Haret el Meidan, where it runs east and west, and
immediately west of the southern alley near the bench mark 2,485 of the
Ordnance Surv-ey. It is perhaps this chapel which was called St.
Thomas of the Germans. There are only two apses visible on the east
side of the room, which are now fitted with wooden doors, and used as
cupboards ; they measure 5 feet and 7^ feet in diameter, the southern
being the largest. A third probably exists behind the south wall of the
room. The length east and west was about 12 feet. The roof consists
of two groined vaults, but the whole is so covered with whitewash and
plaster as to be barely recognisable as mediaeval work.

The second ruin is found in the block of buildings which stand on the
scarp facing east towards the Haram. It is entered from the small square
in the Harat el Meidan, east of the last-mentioned site. The remains of
ribs of vaulting springing from the walls indicate that a large mediaeval
building stood here. There are vaults below with pointed arches and
rubble work. One of these is T shaped, with a groined roof and flat-
pointed arch. This was believed to be full of treasure, which turned to
charcoal when touched. The corbels supporting the ribs above have
boldly cut leaves, such as are common in Crusading capitals. The lintel
stone of the door of the house has an effaced Latin inscription on it : the
date 8 NOV is legible. These substructions belong probably to the old
Hospice of St. Mary of the Germans, which stood in the twelfth century
in this part of the town. Immediately west of the square is a house in the
courtyard of which is a well said to contain a spring of water which has a
brackish taste : the well is 33 feet deep.

Further west in the same quarter of the town is the so-called Beth

JERUSALEM. 273

Ruakh hak Kodesh, or ' House of the Holy Ghost' — probably the site of
the old monastery. It stands south of the Harat el Yehiad, which runs
from the great Armenian Church of St. James eastwards. The site is
marked by the alley with a level 2,527 near B.M. 2,504'i. North of this
again is the Harat es Surian, with the Syrian monastery and Church of
St. Thomas. The north entrance to the monastery has a fine Crusading
doorway, like that on the west of the rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre
Church. Near the street which leads east to the Jews' Wailing-Place
is a little sacred shrine of Sheikh 'Aid, in the street called Harat el
Mugharbeh, south of the corner marked B.M. 2,399' i, and on the
east side of the street. The west entrance to this building seems
possibly to be a Crusading arch. It should be remembered that the
southern part of the city was not the Jews' Quarter in the Middle Ages,
for, as shown by the ' Citez de Jherusalem,' they then inhabited the
Juiverie, answering to the modern Moslem Quarter of the city, north of
the Haram.

Dr. Gutiie's Excavations.

On the 27th May, 18S1, these works were courteously shown by Dr.
Guthe to Captain Conder and Lieutenant Mantell, R.E. The principal
discovery on the Ophel hill was that of a small tower and a rock scarp
south of the point, to which Colonel Warren traced the Ophel wall. The
stones were well cut, of moderate size, not at all approaching the Haram
stones, but rather resembling the later Byzantine work in the Haram.
They were not drafted, and their proportions were very square. There
were three courses setting back one on the other. This masonry stands on
the north on rougher masonry, and on the west face it is seen to be
founded on a scarp of rock apparently of no great height. A little further
south a wall was visible just below the surface, running south. The
stones were 2 or 3 feet long, with a broad irregular draft and rustic
bosses ; the dressing and general appearance seemed to suggest Byzantine
work. The wall stood on a low scarp of rock.

The most northerly excavation was a hundred yards west of the
Virgin's Pool. The wall on the low scarp was about 200 feet further
south. The tower was between these two. None of the stones were
more than i foot 6 inches high, nor longer than 4 feet.

274 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

Further south-west, some caves and cisterns and remains of a vaulted
building, with tesselated floors, were examined. These may have belonged
also to some large monastic building on the hill. West of the Old Pool,
below Siloam, a corner of another building was excavated, also of drafted
masonry, which appeared to be probably either Byzantine or Crusading.
Although the scarp running north and south on the east side of the Ophel
hill may perhaps be a continuation of the line explored by Sir C. Warren,
there appeared to be no discovery of any masonry likely to be of great
age. The excavations would require to be far more numerous and exten-
sive than those of Dr. Guthe in order really to gain a complete knowledge
of the topography of this part of the city.

The remaining buildings of interest within Jerusalem are noticed in
the paper on the architectural history of the city. The Ordnance
Survey notes give detailed accounts of the Haram, the Holy Sepulchre
Church, and other remains of the mediaeval city. The two works of
De Vogiie on the Temple and on the Churches of the Holy Land should
also be consulted by the student of Jerusalem topography ; but the pre-
sent volume contains a notice of every monument in and round Jerusalem
which has as yet been discovered down to the year 1882, and a description
of every such monument considered to date earlier than 70 a.d., as well as
of all the more important since that time.

Rock Levels.

The accumulation of rubbish in Jerusalem is so great that our only
means of ascertaining accurately the original features of the natural site
must depend on a careful examination of the levels of the rock. For
although when the city was first inhabited the rock was no doubt in many
places covered with the red virgin soil which Colonel Warren often found
at the bottom of his shaft, yet even this red soil is not a safe indication,
as there are instances in which it has been found with dddris beneath it
again. The rock levels give us the niaxiimim differences. The surface
levels of the Ordnance Survey give us the 7niniiiium differences, and,
controlled by the surface contours, we are able to cut sections through
any part of the city, and discuss on a sound basis the question of relative
heights, and situation, of the old hills and valleys.

JERUSALEM. 275

Colonel Wilson was the first to set on a proper scientific basis this
question of the natural contours, modern and ancient. He has marked
on the Ordnance Survey all the levels of the rock where it appeared
above the surface, and the Ordnance Survey plan is accurately contoured
at vertical differences of 10 feet, and referenced to the level of the
Mediterranean, the levels being those of the surface in 1864, which have
not been materially altered since, although some fresh accumulations of
rubbish have occurred outside the Jaffa Gate and in a few other places.

Colonel Warren was always most careful to ascertain with accuracy
the rock levels in tanks, shafts, and galleries during his explorations, and
added materially to our knowledge of the rock, especially in the vicinity
of the Haram enclosure. Both these scientific explorers urged on the
town architects the value of recording all observations possible of the
depth beneath the surface at which rock was found in digging foundations
or otherwise.

The record of his own observations was obtained in 1873 by Lieutenant
Conder from Herr Konrad Schick, at the instance of Colonel Warren.
These observations are often not as accurate as those of the Ordnance
Survey or those taken by Colonel Warren, but they may be relied on
within 2 or 3 feet, and their number makes them of great importance, as
no questions of topography depend on such minute accuracy as to be
affected by even a yard in depth, while the drawing of contours is only
possible when a great number of observations are available.

The excavations of the Muristan in 1S72 laid bare the rock in the
great cisterns for a distance of over 100 feet east and west, and thus gave
most valuable information as to the course of the Tyropceon Valley.
Another fine series of observations was obtained further east by Herr
Schick in 1876, in a great tank outside the Muristan.

From the rock levels, numbering 265 in all, contoured, plans have been
prepared by Colonel Warren, Captain Conder, and Herr Shick inde-
pendently. Although these differ in some minor details, they are sub-
stantially in accord, the observations being only deficient in the quarter
of Haret Bab es Silsileh, where, however, the surface contours control
the sections. The small differences can only be settled by further obser-
vations, which there is no immediate prospect of obtaining, and they are
of no archaeological importance.

35—2

2 76 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

The whole register of levels published in the ' Quarterly Statement' in
1879 was carefully revised by Captain Conder and Herr Schick in 1881,
during the late campaign in Palestine, and Herr Schick states that it may
now be relied on for accuracy.

Next to the Ilaram levels the most valuable are those which determine
the depth of the Tyropocon Valley, and the question of these levels is
therefore treated in cxlcnso. The discovery of a scarp 12 to 14 feet
high facing east, and running parallel to the street northwards from the
Damascus Hotel, was an important addition in iSSi.

Notes ox the Register.

1. This register includes all the recorded observations in Jerusalem —
total 265. Those marked (O) are taken from the Ordnance Survey
Notes and Plan, dating 1864 — 5. Those marked (W) were taken by
Captain Warren in 1867 — 70, as noticed in the ' Recovery of Jerusalem.'
Those marked (S) were collected by Herr Konrad Schick, and are mainly
the results of excavations for the foundations of houses. Those marked
(C) were observed by Lieutenant Conder in 1872 — 5 and 18S1 — 2.

2. The levels depend on, and are referred to, the surface levels
marked on the Ordnance Survey.

3. Negative results of value have also been obtained. In 1872 all the
chambers under the platform of the Dome of the Rock on the south and
.south-west were examined by Lieutenant Conder. No rock was found
in them, the general floor-levels being 2,420.

4. From these levels the contoured plans which accompany the
present volume have been prepared.

5. The contours on Ophel are not included in this register. The
levels of the rock on this spur were determined in twenty places by Sir
C, Warren.

JERUSALEM.

277

INTERIOR OF HARAM

epth

No.

Position.

Level. b

='lovv

Remarks.

face.

Highest crest of S a k h r a h .

2440

5 ft. 3 in. above floor.

Dome of the Rock 100 ft. E. of last

2432

Excavated, 1S74.

KubbetelArwah

2435

Surface.

E. wall of Platform iSo ft. N. of steps

2421

I ft. above base of wall.

E. wall of Platform 80 ft. N. of last .

2423

4 ft. above base of wall.

Flat rock 50 ft. E. of last

2419

Surface.

Flat rock 120 ft. S. of S.E. corner of

Platform

2420

Surface.

N. wall of Platform 50 ft. E. of top

of N.W. stairs ....

2432

2 ft. above surface.

Flat rock N. of N.W. stairs .

2430

Surface.

Top of rock scarp, E. wall of cham-

ber No. 24 ....

2433

Examined, 1872.

Bottom of ditto (rock falling W. 30°)

2425

Recov. Jen, p. 214.

K u b b e t el K h u d r floor .

2426

Surface.

E. side of N. door of last

2428

2 ft. above surface.

N.W. corner outside same

2425

Surface.

Flat rock N.W. corner of Haram .

2425

Mean surface.

Highest point (at steps) of scarp in

N.W. corner of Haram

2462

30 ft. above interior.

E. end of same scarp

2432-5

13! ft. above interior.

Scarp on W. Haram wall, highest

point So ft. N. of B a b as Serai

2447

7 ft. above interior.

S. face of same scarp at window in

Haram wall S. of last .

2434

3 ft. above interior (1873).

Under sill of Triple Gate

2378

Recov. Jen, p. 230.

W. wall of passage 60 ft. N. of out-

side line of Triple Gate

2388

Surface of floor.

W. wall 130 ft. N. of last

2396

3 ft. above floon

Cistern No. i . . . .

2427

Recov. Jen, pp. 206 — 217.

„ No. 2 ....

2429

„ No. 3 ....

2426

„ No. 4

2417

„ No. 5, N.W. end

2425

„ „ S.E. entrance .

2408

„ No. 6 ....

2410-5 5

■5

„ No. 7, average

241 1

„ No. 8, average

2411

„ No. 9

2400

Doubtful, p. 208.

,, No. 10

2387

„ No. II

2397

„ No. 12

2406

Surface.

„ No. 13

2409

, ,

Surface.

„ No. 14

2409

Surface.

„ No. 15

2393

„ No. 18

2424

„ No. 22

2426

„ No. 23

2429

Surface.

„ No. 25

2416 :

„ No. 28

2412

278

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

INTERIOR OF 1 1 ARAM— ««////«.</.

Depth

No.

Tosllion.

Level.

below
surface.

Remarks.

Cistern No. 29, top of scarp .

2419

W. of last

2417

Cistern No. 34 ... .

2431

„ No. 35 ■ • • •

2429

Doubtful.

„ No. 36 ... .

241 1

OUTSIDE HARAM \VA[,LS.

49
50
51
52
53
54
55

56
57

58
59

60
61

63
64

67
68
69

72
73
74

75
76

W. Haram wall at \\'iIson's Arcli
W. pier (42 ft. ^V. of last)
W. Haram wall, Tyroptcon Bridge .
Prophet's Gate 14 ft. W. of wall

„ 7 ft. N. of N. jamb .

Ham mam es Shefa, S. end .
Rock surface at S. end of Aqueduct

from Twin Pools (channel 2406

at bottom) . . . . .
S. Haram wall 90 ft. E. of S.W. angle
S. Haram wall 213 ft. E. of S.W.

angle . . . . .

S. Haram wall 14 ft. S. of Single Gate
S. Haram wall S.E. angle, falls E.

I in 9
S. Haram wall 16 ft. \V. of last

of S.E.

N. of S.E.

of s.e!

of S.K

N. E. tower of Haram S. side .
„ 200 ft. E.

135 ft-

N.E. angle of Haram 100 ft. E. of
wall

N.E. angle of Haram 97 ft. due E.

of wall .....
E. wall of Haram i8 ft. S. of N.E.

angle .....

Outlet ofBirkctlsrail.
72J ft. S. of No. 66

45 ft- >. .. ...

61 ft. „ „ (rising N.)

104 ft. „ „ (rising S.)

E. Haram wall 15 ft.

corner

E. Haram wall iS ft.

corner

E. Haram wall 41 ft.

corner

E. Haram wall 162 ft.

corner

Golden Gate S. jamb

233975

82-25

2347-25

2325

2320

2339

2409

22S9

2322

2334

2277

2287

2287-5

229S-8

2279

2312

2360

2293-2

112

23'7

2317

2341

2337

2330

2344

2282

120

2289

115

2278

125

2289

115

Recov. Jen, p. 81.

p. 104.
p- 1 14-
P 115-

Measured 1873.
Recov. Jer., p. 97.

P- 132-

p. 138.
P- 149-

„ p. 147.

P- 151-
P- 97-

Estimated.

Recov. Jer., p. 183.
p. 176.

Falls S. I in 4.

Recov. Jer., p. 17S.
little N. of next.

Recov. Jer., p. iSo.

„ p. 181.

Estimated.

Greatest depth, p. 187.

JERUSALEM.

279

MOSLEM QUARTER OF CITY.

No.

77
78

79
80
81
82
83
84

85
86

87
88
89

91
92

93
94

95
96

97
98

100

lOI

102

103

104

i°S
106

107
108

109
no

Position.

256 ft. E. of B a b S i 1 1 i M i r i a m

162 ft. ,, (scarp 20 ft. high) .

109 ft. „ (rising W. in steps)

43 ft. N. of B a b S i 1 1 i M i r i a m

34 ft- S. of „

78 ft. S. of

Outside Church of St. Anne .

N. W. corner of Birket Israil

53 ft. E. of last

Cistern 33 ft. W. of T a r i k Bab

Hitta, 61 ft. N. of Tarik

B a b S i 1 1 i M i r i a m
Top of'AkabetetTakiyeh .
Ecce Homo Arch ....
W. of Street el Wad at Catholic

Armenian Monastery .
Scarp over Cotton Grotto
400 ft. \V. of Bab e z Z a h r a h
N.E. corner of city, highest point of

scarp .....

E. side of T a r 1 k B a b e 1 A m u d,

60 ft. N. of 'Ak abet S h. S'ad
W. end of arch in alley E. of N.

end of S u k e 1 'A 1 1 a r i n, close

to B. M. 2472'5
At arch E. of last ....
N. end of vault S.W. of last .
S. „ 120 ft. S. of last .

N. side of street 180 ft. E. of last .
N.E. of arch 60 ft. S. of last .
Corner of S u k el K a 1 1 a n i n

and e 1 W a d .
80 ft. N. of Bab el Had id in

N.W. corner of court
looft. S. ofetTakiyeh .
W. of last, S.W. of et Takiyeh.
' House of Dives,' point 2412 O.S. .
W. of last 130 ft., N. side of Via

Dolorosa .....
S. of B.M. 2420-6 on Austrian Hos-
pice, 17 ft. W. of 89 .
Opposite French Consulate on E. .
N. side Via Dolorosa under wall of

Austrian Hospice opposite Arme-
nian Catholic Monastery
W. end of scarp N. of Via Dolorosa
E. end of same scarp in chapel of

Sisters of Sion ....

Level.

Depth
below
surface.

Remarks.

1 1 1 I Scarp at N. end of Twin Pools

2370

2379
2388
2400
2390

2377
2410
2360
2344

2385
2477

2436

2378
2524
2520

2474
2420

2470

2457
2440
2420
2400
2400

2390

2365
2430
2444
2360

2374

2400
2402

2420
2440

2456

2454

21
30
23
19
20

33"S

15
30

10
30
50
45
45

5
53

i7|
45

^v
w
^v

w
c
o

AV
O

o
o

s
c

Recov. Jer., pp. 174 — 177.
Top of scarp.

Surface, p. 193.
p. 189.

P- 195-
Above surface.

Recov. Jer., p. 281.
Average.

Base of city wall.

Surface.
Discovered 1876.

)> I!

Surf, marked 2445 on O.S.

Recov. Jer., p. 281.
Foundation.

Measured, 1874.

The scarp is about 20 ft.

high (see No. 88).
Scarp 37 ft. high.

38o

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

MOSLEM QUARTER OF CITY-

—continued.

Depth

■r

No.

Position.

Level.

below
surface.

1
<

Remarks.

112

Scarp at S. end of Twin Pools

2458

Surface of Barracks.

i'3

Rock bottom of Twin Pools on S. .

2400

The S. scarp is 58 ft. high.

114

)» )i )i W. •

2417

W. side of pool rock, 2410
to 2420.

Arch inTarik Bab ez Zahreh,

N. of B.M. 2479-1

2474

116

Second arch 100 ft. N. of last

2489

Just beneath surface.

Tarik Sh. Rihan E. of English

Consulate, opposite B.M. 2489-6

2477

118

Corner of same street, 50 ft. E. of

B.M. 2442-1 ....

2400

119

150 ft. N. of B.M. 2462, which is

opposite Austrian Consulate

2471

120

E. side of street N. of e 1 M a 1 a-

w i y c h

2503

121

N. of last 50 ft. S. of B.M. 2525-2 .

2504

122

100 ft. \\. of B.M. 2525-2 at 2502 .

2503

I ft. above surface.

123

N. side of H a r a t Bab H i 1 1 a,

80 ft. W. of B. M. 2501-6 .

2496

124

Alley N. of last, W. of point 250S .

2498

125

In garden 200 ft. N. of last .

2522

Surface.

126

N. side of H a r a t Bab H i 1 1 a,
150 ft. E. of Tarik Bab ez

Zahrah

2497

420 ft. S. of N. city wall.

127

Corner of Sikket Deir el
'Adas, 100 ft. S. of Madeleine

Church .....

2474

128

Same street, corner N. of Madeleine

Church, near point 2483 .

2487

...

4 ft. above surface. Doubt-
ful.

129

Opposite B.M. 2450-9 at 250 ft. S.

of, and 500 ft. W. of city walls .

2446

130

At 80 ft. S. of B.M. 2468-4, 180 ft.

AV. of city wall ....

2440

131

'Akabet Abu Waly near point

2441

2399

132

At 50 ft. E. of arch in Sikket
Deir el 'Adas in buildings
between 'Akabet Abu Waly

and 'Akabet Sh. Hasan .

2457

»33
134

13s

136
137

JEWISH QUARTER OF CITY.

Surface of scarp opposite Haram
At W. pier Tyropceon Bridge, 4ii ft.

W. of Haram wall . . " .
285 ft. W. of Haram wall, same line

as last . . . . .

25° ..
216 „

2430

...

General level.

2345 "5

Recov. Jcr., pp. 95—99

2379'S
2388-6

2377-5

21
18
32

A\-
W

JERUSALEM.

281

JEWISH QUARTER OF <ZVY\— continued.

Depth

No.

Position.

Level.

below
surface.

Remarlcs.

138

182 ft. W. of Haram wall, same line

as last

2383-5

139

^3- 5) )» J) )»

2369

140

9- " 11 " M

2354'S

141

Corner 180 ft. N. of W. wall of Ger-

man Jewish Hospital .

2451

142

N. wall, same hospice .

2436

143

H a r a t el M a s t a h, S. end, E.

side of street ....

2456

144

Same street, 60 ft'. N. of last .

2452

145

Corner, 90 ft. S. of N. wall of syna-

gogue. No. 53 (O.S.) .

2460

146

80 ft. E. of last ....

2455

147

Under synagogue No. 58 (O.S.)

2497

148

N. of last by point 2508 on E. side

H a r a t e 1 J a w a n y

24S0

149

Under large synagogue. No. 57

(O.S.)

2476

15°

W. of arch in H a r a t el Y e h u d,

near synagogue, No. 47 (O.S.) .

2468

151

H s h N a m m e r, middle of street

on N. side

2472

152

In alley S.W. of Caraite Synagogue,

near point 2497 ....

2477

153

Synagogue No. 48 (O.S.), S.E.

corner

2464

154

Synagogue No. 48 (O.S.), N.E.

corner

2465

iSS

Synagogue No. 48 (O.S.), N.\\'.

corner

2475

156

Steps in H a r a t el M e i d a n, S.

of northern arch

2412

157

Corner S. of last ....

2420

158

150 ft. W. of last, near No. 6 (O.S.)

2457

159

Harat el Meidan, E. side, N.
end of third arch from Temple

street

2456

Checked 18S1.

160

At 70 ft. E. of last ....

2409

161

Wall west of Wailing Place .

2323

162

Gennath Gate (so-called)

2449

Recov. Jen, p. 276.

163

164

165

166

167

168

ARMENIAN QUARTER.

N.W. angle Prot. Bishop's Palace

E. wall do. .

N.E. angle Bible warehouse

W. wall English church .

N.W. angle do.

S.W. corner courtyard, do.

2500

2510
2520
2512
2509
2521

2 2

See O.S., p. 60, Aqueduct
with rock, 2504.

282

THE SURVEY OF WESTER X l'ALESTl.\E.
ARMENIAN QUARTER— r^«/;«/W.

No.

Position.

Level.

Depth
below
surface.

3
<

Remarks.

169

N.W. corner of school, S. of church

^l^S

170

'7'

S.W. do

Cistern in barracks S. of castle

2536
2537

s
s

172

David Street S. side, E. end of arch

E. of Ciiristian Street .

2478

173

Cistern N.E. corner of Armenian

convent garden ....

2527

•7

174

Cistern 100 ft. S. of last .

2520

'75

Cistern 80 ft. S. of last .

2517

176

Corner of Ha rat Deir cs

Surian, N. of B.M. 2505 5

2485

S. side of Mission

Hos-

177

\V. end of alley S. of Syrian con-

pital.

vent ......

2492

178

S. side of same alley near point

179

25'2

\V. corner of arch in front of syna-

2492

180

gogue No. 60 (O.S.) .
H a r a t el Jaw a n y, E. side point

2515

iSi

2505

H a r a t el A r m e n, S. ^V. corner

2492

of southern arch ....

2529

400 ft. N. of S. city

wall.

182

Cistern 100 ft. N.W. of Bab en

NebyDaud.

2516

1 1

183

Cistern 50 ft. N.W. of last

2518

184

S. wall of building E. of B..M.

2499"8

2490

E. of H a r a t
Neby Daud.

Bab

'85

Tarik Bab en Neby Dafld,
50 ft. S. of southern arch, W.

186

side ......

At 100 ft. S.W. of last .

2484
2510

20
20

s
s

Doubtful.

CHRISTIAN QUARTER.

187
188

1 89
190
191
192

Church of Holy Sepulchre, Tomb
of Nicodemus . . . .

Church of Holy Sepulchre, above
Chapel of Adam

Church of Holy Sepulchre, N. of

Latin Chapel ....
Church of Iloly Sepulchre, N.W.

corner, S. courtyard .
Church of Holy Sepulchre, in front

of Convent of Abraham
Church of Holy Sepulchre, West

door ......

2485

...

249s

...

2479

...

2473

2458

2495

Possibly higher.

N.B. Floor of the Calvary
Chapel, 2494. Checked

Top of ridge.

JERUSALEM.

283

CHRISTIAN QUARTER- (w;

'i line a

Depth

No.

Position.

Level.

below
surface.

Remarks.

193

Church of Holy Sepulchre, S.E.
corner of courtyard, above Chapel

of Helena

2480

Surface.

194

Excavation No. VI. O.S.

2470

Excavated 1864.

195

Kala't Jaliid S. side

2580

Surface.

196

„ ,, city wall, N. of .

2576

Recov. Jen, p. 285.

197

140 ft. N. .

2570

Average surface.

198

Outside city wall, 700 ft. N.E. of

Kala't J alud

2527

Surface.

199

Corner of H a r a t I s t a m b u-
liyeh, 250 ft. E. of Kala't

J a 1 u d, by Convent of St. Basil .

2567

200

N. wall Latin Convent (18 O.S.) .

2549

201

H a r a t I s t a m b u 1 i y e h, foun-
dations of Convent of St. Theo-

dore

2565

. . .

Surface.

202

W. of same street, 80 ft. N. of Con-

vent of St. Demetrius .

2537

203

Latin Patriarchate, N.E. angle

2549

• . •

Approximate.

204

Latin Patriarchate, 50 ft. E. of

last

2557

205

Latin Patriarchate, W. wall, 100 ft.

from N.W. angle

2534

Doubtful.

206

Church of St. Saviour, under floor .

2532

207

H a r a t el A\' a r i y e h, 140 ft.

N.E. of last ....

2553

208

Grounds of Patriarchate, S.E. corner

2553

209

At 50 ft. N. of B.M. 2563

2553

210

100 ft. W. of Greek Catholic Con-

vent ......

2 C 22

211

W. side of H a r a t I s t a m b u-
1 1 y e h, between St. Demetrius

and Greek Catholic Convent

2525

Another observation
Schick, 1 88 1, close
gives 2428.

by,

212

Greek Catholic Convent (11 O.S.) .

2523

213

Pool of the Bath, middle of N. side .

2512

Surface.

214

„ „ W. side

2510

215

,, „ S.W. corner

2500

216

Mediterranean Hotel, S.W. corner .

2494

217

German shop, N.W. corner, 70 ft.

N.W. of last ....

2494

218

100 ft. N.W. of W. door Holy Sepul-

chre Church ....

2500

219

N. of Holy Sepulchre Church S.W.

of K h a n k a h .

2479

3°

220

M u r i s t a n N.W. corner 60 ft. S.

of Minaret J a m i a' el 'Omary

2463

221

Church of St. Mary Magna, west

wall

2438

\6 — 2

284

THE SURVEY Of WESTERN PALESTINE.

CHRISIIAN

. j U A RTE ^—continued.

Depth

No.

Position.

Level.

below

Remarks.

surface.

222

Cistern mouth, 120 ft. N. of S.E.

corner of M u r i s t a n

2426

2^3

Bottom of large cistern S.W. of last .

2429

Visited by Lieutenant Con-
der, 1872. Rock stepped
and falling E.

224

Corner of Via Dolorosa and Khan

ez Zeit, B.M. 24649

2465

• . •

225

House W. of German Hospice of

St. John

24S8

• . <

226

Corner of K h 6 t el K. h a n k a h,

and 'A k a b e t el 'A s a f i r

2487

* . •

Surface.

227

50 ft. N. of entrance to German

Hospice

2455

228

E. of 'Akabet el 'Asa fir, 40

ft. N.E. of No. 226 .

2484

Surface.

229

In front of Damascus Hotel .

2437

230

N. wall

2453

•3

Scarp found 1881, running
N. from these about
14 ft. high, facing E.
Level 2467.

231

W. of last, 70 ft. from T a r i k Bab

e 1 'A m u d

2470

• . •

Rock on surface.

232

'Akabet el Batikh, W. of

point 2494

2489

233

Between last and Convent of St.
John Euthymius, N. of B.M.

2501-8

2497

234

Corner opposite St. John Euthy-

mius on north ....

2486

23s

N. of Khankah, E. of Deir es Seiyi-

deh, and of Street

2477

3°

236

Spanish Consulate, N. wall .

2489

1 1

237

E. end of second alley, N. of last at

point 2484 ....

2462

238

E. end of next alley, N. of last at

point 2482 ....

2470

Scarp of 10 ft. here, bottom
2460.

239

N. side of same alley

2483

Surface.

240

Jew's House of Industry, B.M. 2490

2480

241

E. end of alley opposite No. 238 .

2480

242

Open ground near city wall, 50 ft.

N.W. of point 2501

2483

243

150 ft. S. of last, in street, loo ft.
N. of B.M. 2502 T west of point

2499

2494

244

W. side of winding street So ft N.E.

of last

2487

245

Corner of House 100 ft. W. of B.M.
2517-2, which is on corner N.W.

of Greek convent of St. Catherine

2517

r 2

JERUSALEM.

28s

OUTSIDE THE

CITY.

Depth

•c

No.

Position.

Level.

below
surface.

Remarks.

246

240 ft. E. of S.E. angle of Haram.

(Bed of the Kedron Valley.)

2171

38-5

Recov. Jen, p. 97. The
rock was traced 175 ft.
W.

247

Golden Gate, 133 ft. E. of S. side of

gate, rock rising W. i in 4 .

2312

Recov. Jer. p. 154.

248

Ccenaculum, N. end of courtyard .

2504

249

„ middle S. wall .

2479

3°

250

„ at cross roads, 50 ft.

^V.

2495

251

Rock tower foundation under Pro-

testant School on Sion

2483

Scarp is 36 ft. high, 9 ft.
above passage.

252

Rock platform A\\ of last

2447

253

Scarp S.E. of tower (top)

2485

Average.

254

Outside school washhouse on E.

2472

...

Surface.

255

Back of shoemaker's shop, N. of

last

2467

For these observations, 250
— 259, see Lieutenant
Conder's plan of this
scarp.

256

N. end of scarp, N. of Tower

24S0

10 ft. above surface in
cemetery.

257

Tower in S.E. corner of Protestant

cemetery (top of scarp)

2480

258

Bottom of same scarp .

243s

259

Scarp running N.E. from last .

2500

Surface.

260

Cistern opposite last on S.E. .

24S0

Surface.

261

Rock 400 ft. S.W. of No. 250

2380

Surface.

262

„ 400 ft. S. of last .

2350

Surface.

263

Scarp 200 ft. W. of Pool of Siloam

(top)

2200

Surface.

264

Scarp 300 ft. E. of pool .

2160

Surface.

265

Scarp 500 ft. N. of Aceldama .

2180

Surface.

The Tyropceon Valley (Rock Levels).

The accompanying plan, embracing part of the City of Jerusalem
between Christian Street on the west and Valley Street on the east,
and between the slope of Sion, south of David Street, on the south, and
the Via Dolorosa on the north, has been constructed with a view of
showing how the observations of the levels of the rock beneath the
surface affect the question of the depth and width of the Tyropoeon
Valley near its head.

286 TJIE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The plan includes 56 actual observations of the rock, and is fairly
representative of the kind of information obtained throughout Jerusalem,
as the known points in other parts are, if anything, more numerous in
comparison with the area — excepting always the ground immediately
west of the Haram, where few measurements have been made.

The area in the present plan has, however, been selected, because the
accumulation of ddbris in this part of the city is greater than in almost
any other part within the modern walls ; and for this reason the
observations of the rock have here given results of more importance
than in any other quarters of Jerusalem. By glancing the eye along the
surface contour, No. 2,449, ''^''"^1 then along the rock contour. No. 2,450,
and observing the wide divergence between them, it becomes at once
evident that a great alteration has taken place in the original outline of
the ground.

The only method by which general results can be obtained from
isolated observations of level is by the use of contours, or lines of equal
level, the tracing of which indicates the relative positions of the features
of the ground. By this method Colonel Wilson has delineated the
supposed outline of the present surface beneath the houses of the modern
city ; and Colonel Warren has employed the same principle in his plan of
rock surface in the Haram area. In the case of the present surface the
number of observations is of course considerably larger than it has been
as yet possible to obtain by soundings of the rock, taken in deep
excavations, or under the foundations of houses, or in cistern mouths.
The surface contours are consequently more accurately traced, but all
contours are approximations more or less close to actual surfaces,
answering to the lines which in section may be drawn to indicate the
supposed lie of the rock between known points.

It is not, however, on the known levels of the rock alone that the
contours depend in the case of the present plan. They are controlled by
two other considerations. In the first place by the surface levels and
contours, for it is evident that the rock level must never be higher than
the surface contour, except in cases where the rock is visible above the
general surface. In the second place the level of the floor of various
vaults and cellars being known, it is practically almost certain that the
rock in their vicinity does not occur at a level higher than that of these

■2*»0

Section A B. Looking North.

2*70

2400

24S0

2-M0_
2430

Bw*?

2400 /eet dbmre Ihe Sea-

Section CD. Looking North.

Tiresen Jb Surface

g3ao

2370

2360 fiet afave ihe Sea,

Section E.R Looking West,

2420 fett above^SS'iM^JiMM, >'

Vmctnl'DrociTis Day & Soil lath

VracenlBi iiute Bay iSan lifli

JERUSALEM. 287

floors. These negative observations are often very useful in determining
the superior Hmit for the rock level, though they do not of course give an
inferior limit.

In order more clearly to show the manner in which the contours may
be traced, it may be useful to follow one line across the plan. The
contour 2,450 feet above the sea may be taken as a good specimen, and
is, in fact, the master contour of Jerusalem, running through the heart of
the city from the north-east to the south-west angle.

This contour first appears on the present plan in the north-east corner,
where a vertical scarp 20 feet high runs parallel to the Via Dolorosa on
the north side of the street. Behind the Austrian Hospice there is a
steep slope (from which we may fairly infer the rock to be close to the
surface), and the surface contour 2,449 limits the deviation of our rock
line on the south ; all the ground further south being here not more than
2,339 feet above the sea. On the north an observation occurs about 200
feet from the rock contour at a level 2,477, thus confining the contour
2,450 within a limit of about 70 feet north and south. As, however, the
surface slope is much gentler to the north, the limit of deviation is pro-
bably in reality less.

The rock contour 2,450 reappears on the west side of the valley,
which runs down south-east from the Damascus Gate, the bed of which
has an accumulation of some 40 feet of debris above it. We have here
three observations in a line east and west, showing an even fall of the
rock of 36 feet in 150 feet. The furthest east of the three observations
has a level 2,453, thus limiting the position of our contour on the west ;
while on the east the surface contour 2,449 occurs at a distance about
100 feet from our rock-line, and an observation (2,402) of the rock is
obtained 10 yards east again.

These data practically limit the deviation of the rock contour 2,450 at
this point within about 20 feet east and west, and its direction southwards
is controlled between the surface contour on the east and the observations
(2,455 ^nd 2,454) ns^f the Via Dolorosa on the west.

Proceeding southwards to the street called 'Akabet et Takiyeh
(the next parallel to the Via Dolorosa), we find that the surface contour
2,449 curves outwards to the east, and that an observation (2,444) west
of e t Takiyeh shows rock above the ground. The rock contour.

288 THE SURVEY OF WESTERX PALESTINE.

therefore, cannot here be far away from the surface contour, and its
ai)proximate direction is obtained by joinins^^ the point 2,444 ^^'^h ihe
point 2,477 'It the top of the above-mentioned street, where also the rock
is visible on the surface for a short distance ; by dividing this distance of
350 feet proportionally (in the ratio 2 7 to 2)i)' we obtain the point throuj^h
which the contour should pass.

The next observation, in the street south of the last, agrees with the
preceding determination. The rock contour is here confined between
the observation 2,457 on the west, and the surface contour 2,449 or* the
cast — an extreme limit of lOO feet ; and on the supposition of a uniform
slope, the limit of deviation is not greater than about 30 feet at most.

Within 50 yards of the last point the line of the contour, which here
begins to deviate considerably from that of the surface contour, is fixed
within a limit of about 29 feet, passing between two observations of the
rock, 2,470 on the north, and 2,440 on the south, at a distance apart of
about 100 feet. A section of the hill-side, extending over a length of 200
feet, is here obtained by aid of the observed lie of the rock, in a great
cistern discovered in 1876, showing a uniform slope of about i in 5, and
defining in a satisfactory manner the northern slope of the great valley,
now hidden beneath 50 feet of rubbish.

The rock contour 2,450 now enters the area of the M u r i s t i n (the
old Hospital of St. John), the surface of which, before the excavations
undertaken by order of the German Government had been commenced,
was an open field at a level of about 2,480 feet above the sea. The first
observation (2,438) gives the level of the rock under the south wall of
the Church of St. Marie la Grande, where a rock-cut tomb (of Crusading
date) was found in 1872. The next (2,462), about 100 yards further
west, shows rock 15 feet below the surface. In connection with these we
must take the observation close to the Holy Sepulchre Church, where, in
the vaults of the southern courtyard, the rock is found 1 5 feet from the
surface (2,458). Under the belfry (2,473) 't "s only 7 feet from the
surface, and in Mount Calvary it is 15 feet above the lloor of the church
(2,495), 3S ascertained in 1882. From these, and the other neighbouring
observations, it is clear that the church stands on the hill-top, and that
the ground falls rapidly south of it. The contour which we are tracing
therefore runs between the Holy Sepulchre Church and the south wall cf

JERUSALEM. 289

St. Marie la Grande ; and on the supposition of a uniform slope its
position is limited to narrow bounds.

It now becomes evident that the contour must again turn south, as
there is an observation near the south-west angle of the Muristan of
2,478, while all the observations further west are at yet higher levels.
The ancient Byzantine chapel discovered in 1840, at the corner of
Christian Street and David Street, has its floor 25 feet beneath the sur-
face, and the level of the rock seems thus to be about 2,470 in this place.
On the east our contour is limited by the level of the rock in those
magnificent tanks excavated in 1S72-3, where the bed of the valley was
laid bare to the rock at a depth 50 feet below the surface. The rock
was here found to be stepped down eastwards with a gentle fall, the mean
level of the part measured being 2,429.

Crossino- David Street we obtain further indication of the rock-levels.
The two ancient towers which are now built into the cistern of the Jewish
Mission School have their bases about 35 feet below the street. East
of Dr. Chaplin's house there are also vaults below the street level, and
at this point Colonel Warren obtained an observation (2,449) at a depth
of 34 feet beneath the surface under the so-called Gennath Gate. The
ground at the present time falls northwards from Dr. Chaplin's house to
David Street at a slope of about i in 14 ; but the fall of the rock from the
so-called Gennath Gate to the great cistern in the IMuristan is at a slope
of I in 10.

Following our contour eastwards from the last point (2,449), we find
it controlled by another level (2,457), where the thickness of dt'bris is
only 1 2 feet. The last point is 400 feet from the preceding, and between
them the line is not well defined ; but immediately east of the point 2,457
we find the contour line almost absolutely fixed, the surface contour again
approaching it, while four observations at levels differing by nearly 50
feet, occur so close together as to give evidence of the existence of a pre-
cipitous slope or rocky scarp, which runs southwards until it becomes
visible as a cliff some 20 feet high, facing the Haram opposite the south-
west angle.

From the detailed account of this important contour the reader will
be able to judge the manner in which the other lines of level have been
traced. The general results may, however, be perhaps more clearly

290 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PA LESTIXE.

explained by means uf sections of the ground. Three sections are
accordingly given, one through the hill spur (east and west), a second
along the valley bed (east and west), and a third across the valley and
hill (north and south).

b'rom these it will be evident that there is only a very small accumu-
1. nil in (if di'bris on the hill-toi), wliile the valley bed has been filled up
nearly to a level with the higher ground, or to a depth of 50 feet in the
middle.

The surface outline in these sections is traced in accordance with the
contours given on the Ordnance Survey ; and, w^ith regard to the rock
outline, it should be noted that the line depends not only on the points
marked Rock, where observations occur on the cutting line, but also on
other intermediate observations near the cutting line, and thus on the
rock contours of the plan.

All that was known of the rock before 1872 has been already noticed
in speaking of the Muristan.

In 1872 the great cistern in the south-east portion of the Muristan
was excavated and the bed of the valley laid bare. In 1876 the discovery
of another tank north-east of the Bazaars gave a valuable confirmation to
the correctness of the contour lines previously traced ; and although further
observations would be of great interest, the main fact of the existence of a
valley some 100 feet deep and 800 feet wide (north and south) may now
be considered definitely proved.

It is interesting to compare our present information with the dis-
cussions of earlier writers, by whom it would have been considered invalu-
able. In 1838 Dr. Robinson described the Tyropocon Valley as com-
mencing near the Jaffa Gate, and pointed out the fact that there was a
descent northwards to David Street, from the so-called Mount Sion.
(' Biblical Researches,' ii. 264.) In 1849 Canon Williams writes, ' I never
could find any traces of the valley Dr. Robinson calls the Tyropueon.'
(' Holy City,' ii. 29.) In answer to this, Dr. Robinson was only able to
point out the level of the old chapel of St. John, 25 feet below the street.
(' Later Biblical Researches,' p. 185.)

The earliest attempt to restore on the ground the City of Jerusalem
as described by Josephus, is that of Brocardus, who, writing in 1283 a.d.,
says of the valley under consideration, ' The ravine is now itself quite

JERUSALEM. 291

filled up, but nevertheless shows signs of its former concavity.' Brocardus
had visited Jerusalem, and possibly was aware of the existence of the
great tanks subsequently filled up. His description, at all events, now
proves to be absolutely correct.

By denying the existence of this valley, it became possible for the
apologists of the traditional site of the Holy Sepulchre so to draw the line
of the second wall as to pass entirely clear of the church on the east. It
can hardly be now supposed that the city wall can have crossed the bed
of so deep and wide a valley, leaving ground at an elevation 80 feet higher,
and only 100 yards to the west, on the outside. The determination of the
contour of the valley thus forces us to remove the line of the second wall
further west, where a saddle of higher ground forms the head of the great
valley.

The tracing of the rock also throws light on the description which
Josephus gives of the ancient city, which was rendered obscure by reason
of the filling up of the valley.

Josephus (5 Wars, iv. i) speaks of the Tyropceon Valley as dividing
the hill Akra from that of the Upper City,* and describes Akra (which
was separated from the Temple Hill by another valley) as being 'gibbous'
in shape (d/t^tKopToc), or like the moon in the third quarter. Nearly all
authorities agree in placing Akra near the present church of the Holy
Sepulchre, and the gibbous shape of the spur, on which that church stands,
is rendered conspicuous by the rock contours, but is not apparent from
the surface contours. It will also be observed that a flat terrace is here

* The name Tyropceon is generally supposed to be Greek, in which case it would mean
' cheese-makers,' but it may be noticed that Josephus generally gives the Aramaic names in
his topography, and (as in the case of Bezetha or Ccenopolis) makes special mention of any
Greek translation which he may make of a native name. It was suggested by Dr. H. Bonar
that the word Tyropceon may be Hebrew or Aramaic. Captain Condor therefore proposes
to read it as jvdiv from a root meaning to 'smelt,' and hence applied to money. A
Beth Tzeripha KDnvn''2 is mentioned in the Talmud, apparently towards the east of
Jerusalem, where the offal from the Temple was thrown. This may also perhaps be con-
nected with the name Tyropceon. The same root occurs in the Arabic Serf, ' change ' or
'silver.' It seems strange that cheese-makers should reside in Jerusalem, but the Aramaic
would give the natural meaning, ' Valley of Money-changers,' and in support of this view it
should be noticed that part of the city immediately over this valley was called Khan c s
Serf as late as 1500 a.d. (Mejr ed Din), and that the money-changers still have their shops
in David Street, which runs down the Tyropceon Valley. — C. R. C.

37—2

292 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

formed with a steep slope on both the cast and west (sec section, A, B),
and it seems possible that this marks the artificial levelling of the Akra
Hill by the Hasmoneans, as twice described by Josephus.

The amount which would have been cut off, supposing the original
slope to have been uniform, is about 30 feet on the average, and if, as
seems not improbable, there was here originally a knoll of higher ground,
the amount cut down would have been yet greater.

Colonel Warren (' Temple or Tomb,' p. ^l) supposes the knoll cut
down by the Hasmoneans to have been about 1,000 feet south-east of the
Holy Sepulchre Church, with a level 2,470. The section of the present
surface rather confirms such a supposition, but at least 50 feet of rock {in
height) must in this case have been removed. (Cf. 13 Ant. vi. 7;
5 Wars, iv. i.)

The rock contours have been traced all over Jerusalem, but with
exception of the Haram area, there is no part of the city where the
results of a study of the original surface appear to be as interesting and
instructive as in the vicinity of the Tyropoeon Valley.

C. R. C.

THE

WORK OF M. CLERMONT GANNEAU.

M. Clermont Ganneau was resident in Jerusalem, as Drogman-Chancelier
in the French Consulate, from the year 1865 to 1872. He again went to
Jerusalem in 1S73-74 for the Palestine Exploration Fund, on an archaeo-
logical mission, and in the year 1881-82 was French Consul at Jaffa.
The work which he accomplished during these three periods of residence
is of a very varied and remarkable character, principally in South-
western Palestine. It is proposed in this volume to extract from his
letters and reports certain portions which relate to Jerusalem itself
and its immediate neighbourhood.

The Stone of Zoheleth.

(i Kings i. 9).

' Nearly in the centre of the line along which stretches the village of Siloam, there exists
a rocky plateau surrounded by Arab buildings, which mask its true form and extent : the
western face, cut perpendicularly, slightly overhangs the valley. Steps rudely cut in the rock
enable one to climb it, not without difficulty, and so to penetrate directly from the valley to
the midst of the village. By this road, troublesome, and even dangerous, pass habitually the
women of Siloam, who come to fill their vessels at the so-called "Virgin's Fount" (Ain Sitti
Mariam or Umm ed Deraj). Now, this passage and the ledge of rock in which it is cut are
called by the Fellahin "Ez Zehwele." It is impossible not to be struck with the absolute
identity which this name offers with that oi the s(ofie of Zoheleth^ which the Bible (i Kings i. 9)
places near (^5{X) En Rogel. It is quite sufficient, in fact, to compare Jl7riT '^^'''h Zehwele
or &^.^') to determine with what precision the phonetic elements correspond. The vocal
type itself is exactly reproduced, putting aside an insignificant inversion of the sound O,

294 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

which in Ikbrew precedes, and in Arabic follows, the consonant Pi- A homogeneous
transcript will present us with this identity in still clearer manner. Hebrew : Zohclet ;
Arabic : Zthotkt.

' I believe, then, that we can consider the situation of the Stone of Zoheleth definitely
determined. This point fi.xcd with certainty can serve to determine the position of many
others of the highest interest. At present I can only indicate a few, proposing to return to
the question at length at some future time. For example, it becomes extremely probable
that we must put En Rogel at the Virgin's Fountain, and not at B'lr Eyub. In fact, Bir Eyub
is 700 metres distant from Zehwele, and the Pool of Siloam is 400 metres; while the Virgin's
Fountain, situated exactly opposite Zehwele, is only separated from it by the breadth of the
valley, about 60 metres. I call attention to the importance of this result in tracing the line
separating the territories of Benjamin and Judah, which passed by En Rogel, and the
support which it affords to Captain Warren's ingenious theory of the direction of this
line.

' I must advance another fact which appears to me intimately connected with this remark,
and to confirm it in a certain measure. We know the multiplicity of denominations under
which the great western valley of Jerusalem, so commonly called the Kedron, is known.
The Fellahin of Siloam divide it into three sections, which are, proceeding from north to
south : ist, Wady Sitti Mariam ; 2nd, Wady Fer'aun ; 3rd, Wady Eyub. The name of the
intermediate part, which extends from the south-east angle of the Haram to the confluence
at the north of Bir Eyub, is remarkable : Wady Fe/aiin, that is, Pharaoh's Valley. Now, it
is well known that to the Arabs, the name of Pharaoh simply indicates the idea of something
or other of ancient times, and it is found with this vague meaning in a crowd of places
which have nothing to do with Egypt, very much as in F'rance, where all Roman camps are,
for the vulgar, Cresar's camps. 'Wady Fer'aun signifies, then, the valley of the king, and the
region to which this name is applied is precisely that which the King's Gardens of the Bible
used to occupy.*

The Tomb of Absalom.

' Excavations made by me at the western face of this curious monument, on which
opinions are so much divided, have enabled me to discover the base and pedestal of the
columns, which are, according to the mouldings, purely Greek ; the bases rest on a
pedestal of o'8o metres in height, supported, in its turn, by a kind of plinth {socle) more
than a metre in height. Further, I have completely cleared out the interior of the
central chamber, which was almost filled up by the stones thrown in from time immemorial.
1 have thus exposed to light the two funnel arcades surmounting the slabs in which were
placed the sarcophagi. Three high steps cut in the rock and connected with three other
steps above them enabled me to reach the original door of this monument, situated above
the cornice. I have found another door, more modern, consisting of a horizontal passage
in a level with the chamber, and opening to the exterior, at half the height of the monu-
ment

' This chamber has evidently been transformed at a certain time into a place of residence,
as is proved by perforations irregularly made in the walls, to admit the air and light, as well

* See Part II., under head 'Tantur Fer'on.'

JERUSALEM. 295

as the construction of a new door. These excavations allow me to arrive at the following
three important facts : — i. The height, the proportion, and the true aspect of the monument ;
2. A proof that the ornamentation is in Greek style ; 3. The presumption that the chamber is
of earlier date than the ornamentation ; thus it is probable that originally a subterranean cave
had been cut into the bed of the rock, into which one descended by six steps ; later on this
cave was isolated by these low and deep cuttings, so as to be transformed into an edifice,
and the first door, opening into space, was thus generally, but wrongly, supposed to be a
window.

The Pool of Stroutiiion.

' About two years ago we explored for the first time, Captain VVarren and myself, the new
tunnel parallel to that which had been discovered under the establishment of the Sisters of
Sion some years before. The presence of rock, ascertained in several places, led us to believe
that we were examining a large cistern half cut out of the rock, and half covered by two long
vaults. Subsequent examination has entirely confirmed this theory, and has proved that at
this place existed an ancient pool or hirkct, forming a long parallelogram, cut in the rock, open
to the sky, having a mean depth of four to five metres. I have ascertained, by sight and touch,
the existence of the rock cut vertically along nearly the whole perimeter of the parallelogram.
At a later epoch the reservoir was covered by the two long tunnels at present existing, in
order to prevent the evaporation of the water by converting an open into a closed reservoir.
The intermediate wall on which the double vault rests is pierced by six large semicircular
arches, forming a means of inter-communication for the two tunnels.

'This reservoir, lying in a direction north-west and south-east, measured about 53 metres
long and 15 broad. At its south-east extremity it abuts against the rock on which rose the
fortress of Antonia (the present barracks). Here is evidently the pool StjoiitJiioii, which it
has been sought to identify with the Buket Israil, or in an imaginary prolongation of it, in
spite of the impossibility of taking account in this theory of the plan of attack by Titus against
Antonia as given by Josephus. On the other hand, my explanation makes everything clear
and conformable to the rules of strategy. Titus evidently attacked the north-west angle of
Antonia ; with this object he established an ai;ger on the left of the pool Stroitthion, and
against the middle of one of its long sides ; then at some distance, about the middle of
the pool, a second agger, commanding the western side of the north-west angle of the
fortress.

' The comparative smallness of this pool, reserved, probably, for the wants of the fortress
(Baris Antonia), might even partly account for the -name Sirouthioii, which means in its
simplest, and, therefore, most probable sense, a sparrow, the sparrow's pool, that is to say, the
little pool, by a sort of popular sobriquet.

' Archffiological and historical considerations seem to demonstrate that the transformation
of the pool Strouthion into a closed reservoir belongs to the period of CElia Capitolina ; the
splendid stone-work above the double tunnel and extending as far as the Ecce Homo Arch
must be contemporary; the arch itself is probably a triumphal arch erected in commemora-
tion of the decisive victory of the Romans over Bar Cochebas.

296 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

DisTiN'CTivE Character of Crusading Masonry.

' An observation which I made some time ago, I beUeve for the first time, has a certain
value, because it leads to nothing less than an almost absolutely certain diagnosis of the stones
cut by the Crusaders.

' This distinction concerns not only the medieval archreology of Palestine, but also, and
almost to the same degree, the archaeology of earlier times.

' One knows already how little people agree respecting the age of several of the Palestine
monuments ; it is not rare to see contradictory theories on the subject of the same edifice,
or the same part of an edifice, varying between the most diverse epochs, Hebrew, Jewish,
Roman, Byzantine, Mcdiccval, Western, and even Arab.*

'The reason of this is, that we confine ourselves usually to the examination oi forms
and styles, and that nothing is more deceptive than this kind of evidence when other means
of identification are not at our disposal. I will cite but one example. One looks uj)on it
as an established truth that every pointed arch with normal joints is Ara/>, and that every
pointed arch with vertical joints is JVesfern.

' This rule, elsewhere fixed, is frequently violated in Palestine, and will assuredly mislead
those who would take it for an infallible guide.

' The peculiarity which I now i)oint out enables us to decide, stone by stone, what
materials were worked into any edifice by the Crusaders.

' As is already known, a great number of the blocks found in the constructions erected in
Palestine by the Crusaders show masons' marks, consisting of letters of the Latin alphabet,
including various symbols, some of which are very characteristic (the fleur-de-lis, for example).
I have collected some hundreds of examples in my notes. No possible doubt would exist if
each stone showed these incontestable signs, but unfortunately this is far from the case. My
course of observations, however, enables me to supply their absence and to arrive at the
following conclusion: That I believe myself able to generalize as follows: "The stones
bearing mediaeval (Latin) letters have their exterior faces dressed, or rather scored, in a special
manner, which of itself alone suffices to characterize them."

' This surface-dressing consists (on stones with plane surfaces) of oblique lines closely
ranged, all in the same direction, done with a toothed instrument. The obliquity of the lines
appears generally to be at an angle of 40° to 45°. This uniform line is particularly visible
when the stones are illuminated by a side light. I have found it on a quantity of stones
without masons' marks, but employed concurrently with signs on stones in perfectly homo-
geneous buildings.

' Its presence is so specific that it has often led me to note masons' marks which would
otherwise have escaped me, because it determines, a priori, the age of the stone, and warns
me that, perhaps, a mason's mark is to be found.

' 1 have noted the existence of this surface-dressing on stones of all shapes and positions :
blocks, in courses, in walls or pillars, voussoirs of arches, and even in rebated blocks. It
exists also on stones with carved surfaces placed vertically, shafts of columns, concave or
convex blocks of apses, or circular walls.

* See Appendix on 'Architecture.' 'Memoirs,' Vol. III. A dressing almost indistinguish-
able has been found on Arab buildings.

JERUSALEM. 297

' But in this case the cuts are very sHghtly oblif[ue, and approach perceptibly to the
vertical, which is the normal of the cylinder ; when, on the contrary, the cylinder is disposed
horizontally (as in horizontal mouldings), the lines of the cut are very nearly horizontal.

'These facts are easily explained by the necessity of making the tool follow a rectilinear
direction ; if, for example, the same method had been followed as for plane surfaces, the tool
would only have touched the carved surfaces perpendicularly to their normal, and would
have produced marks only instead of lines. I have remarked another group of stones also
dressed obliquely, but on which the cuts are replaced by a series of dotted lines. I have not
yet studied this peculiarity sufficiently to say if these stones belong to the same epoch as the
others.

' So far I have not met with a single fact in contradiction to the broad rule which I think
I am able to lay down as follows (restricting it, be it well understood, to those parts of
Palestine with which I am familiar) :

' All stones showing what I propose to call " the medireval dressing " (taille mediicvah)
were worked by the Crusaders.

' There is no need, I think, to insist further on the advantages which may arise in a
multitude of cases from an application of this rule, reposing as it does on the result of minute
observation, so to speak, on what one may consider the " epidermis " of the blocks. The
nature of the dressing is one of the most certain means of recognising the date of the con-
struction," says one of the most learned architects of our time, M. Viollet le Due, in his
" Dictionnaire Raisonne de I'Architecture Franc^aise."

' Besides the practical and local application which I have indicated, this fact which I have
pointed out concerning the " medireval dressing " is capable of furnishing a new element in
the history of the development of Western architecture itself It is known that the dressings
vary in the West according to the district and period. Tlie period being known, it would
perhaps be easy to determine the original European region of the method in question, and,
in consequence, to find out to what school the builders belonged who were employed by the
Crusaders.

' It will not be forgotten that it was precisely in the twelfth century that (in France, at
least) the different styles of dressing reached a great degree of perfection. Some authors are
even tempted to attribute this result to the influence of Grreco-Roman art in Syria.

Ancient Tombs North-east of Jerusalem.

' There is a group of rock-cut sepulchres which, so far as I know, have never been noticed.
They are all in a large field lying between the moat north-east of Jerusalem and the magni-
ficent pine standing close to a winepress worked by Mohammedans; this place is generally
known under the name of " Kurm esh Sheikh."!-' These sepulchres are interesting from a
double point of view: (i) in regard to their form : they belong to the horizontal system of
rock sepulture; the entrance consists of a rectangular trench about i-6o m. by 0-45 m., and
more than a metre in depth; at the end a rebate cut in the rock appears to iiave been
destined to receive and support a slab closing the tomb properly so-called, placed in a
sepulchral chamber situated below. So far as I have been able to judge of the exterior,

* See Part II., under head ' Kurm esh Sheikh.'

298

THE SURIEY or WESTERN PALESTINE.

these chambers arc excavated in a vaullctl form : they aj^pcar to have a considerable
extent, and the proprietor of the ground lias assured me that many of them communicate.
There have been found in them, I am told by the jiroprietor, quantities of bones.

broken pottery, "boxes" in soft stone, and an car-ring in gold, which he promised to
show me.

JERUSALEM.

299

'(2) The position of the sepulchres may be of imporlance for the question, adhuc sub
judke, of the third wall of Jerusalem. They extend along a line of about 125 degrees,
starting from the south-east angle of the building, marked close to the great pine on the

a
I

3 J *.•

1'^'

,,y^^^

Ordnance Survey map, and running to the road which passes along the moat of the city at
the north-east, We counted a dozen openings of tombs, and the last are hardly 40 metres

3O0 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN TALESTINE.

from the moat of tlic city. If ilic examination of these tombs, which \vc arc about to make
without delay, leads us to assij^n them an ancient date, it is clear that the existence of a
cemetery of a certain date may furnish us proofs for or against tlie existence of a third wall to
the north of this point.

'The i>ro|irictor of the ground told me that they had found another great tomb cut in the
rock under the wall north-east of the present building (at the south side of the tittle court
margined on the house on the Ordnance Survey map). It appears, besides, that a tradition
assigns to the Kurm esh .Sheikh a ma/jain of El Khadher (the prophet Elijah). I think that
there must exist about here many tombs of the same kind. We know that it is very near this
point that the partisans of the identity of the wall of Agrippa with tKe modern northern wall
place the Fuller's monument spoken of by Josephus.

' I have, with M. Leconitc, drawn up an exact plan of the ground where these tombs
lie, so as to give their position relatively to the city. We have carefully noted the
orientation, which differs with each. Within the plot of ground which is bounded by
a dry-stone wall bordering the road we counted thirteen openings, some completely
open, some partially filled with earth, others which seem to have been commenced
and left unfinished. Opposite the gate of the enclosure, on the road itself, we also remarked
traces in the scarp of the rock of three rectangular graves (belonging probably to the same
system) and of a great wall. On the counterscarp of the city moat there exists one other
grave, which might belong to the same group.

' It is difficult to give, in a simple description, any idea of the arrangement of these tombs,
which (so far as we have seen) are composed of a chamber oblong in plan, vaulted in the
manner known technically as " arc dc cloitrc" or " coved vault," formed by the direct penetra-
tion of two cylinders ; whilst the vault known as " rotile d' antes " (the plain groined vault) is
obtained by the intersection of two cylinders. Architects are well aware that the first-named
system is older than the second.*

' M. Lecomte has added to his plan a little sketch giving the geometrical perspective of
this vault. Below the springing of the vaults are vertical walls ; at its summit is the opening
of the grave, communicating with the exterior, and of this the bottom seems to have been
closed by a big block resting on a rebate cut in the rock.

' The first chamber (O) which we entered, almost entirely filled with earth, communicated
by a small round opening (R) with a second chamber (P). This is very small, and contains
three loculi cut trough fashion and parallel. A hole pierced by the Arabs in one of the
angles permits the visitor to penetrate to an adjoining chamber (Q), which is only separated
from its neighbour by a very thin wall of rock.

' This third chamber is filled with earth nearly to the springing of the vault, so that we
could not discover the funereal arrangement. At the top is the rectangular opening marked
in the general plan (under No. 2), by which this chamber opens directly to the exterior.

'We visit a very curious tomb, in which, to the left on entering, one sees an
"arcosolium" covering in a trough, rounded at one end, square at the other: the
rounded end was evidently that in which the head was, so that the feet were turned towards
the entrance. A second chamber, situated in the axis of the other, is ended by a

* The arrangement of these tombs, as elsewhere described in the volumes of the
' Memoirs,' is that of a shaft, with a loculus under an arcosolium on either side. (See
Appendix on 'Architecture,' 'Memoirs,' Vol. III.

JERUSALEM. 301

" hemicycle " (or semicircular apse). I have never until now met with this singular
arrangement ; we shall see presently the plan and section of this sepulchre, which is unique
in its way.

' We shall return soon to the exploration of the other tombs, which are at present filled
with mud and water. I can at present give no opinion whatever on the exact age of these
tombs, and my hesitation is increased by the importance of the question connected with it,
and which I indicated in my last report, viz., the extension of ancient Jerusalem to the north
of this point. I will only observe for the moment that in building the Latin Patriarchate
there were found inside the present city, about 250 metres west of the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre, tombs with sarcophagi identical with those of which I have many times spoken,
and a number of lachrymatory glass vases, like those picked up by M. de Saulcy at the
entrance of the Kabour el Molouk, and to that found by myself in a sepulchral cave, with
Jragntents of Hebrew inscriptions.

' I think it would be of some interest to attempt an excavation on this spot to try to clear
out one of the tombs not yet violated ; perhaps one might come across something of an
cpigrajihic character, or at least some objects which might help us to determine the period to
which they belong.

' One may compare the interior arrangement of the second chamber with that of a tomb
described by Lieutenant Conder ("Quarterly Statement," 1S73, P- 22), which is close to the
excavation marked No. 81 on the Ordnance Survey map of Jerusalem.* A little distance
north of the house of the Kerm esh Sheykh is an old Arab cemetery, which appears to have
been long abandoned.

Cavern on the Ophel Spur.

'While exploring, some days before I fell ill, tliat part of Mount Ziont in the neighbour-
hood of the spot where, according to my calculations, the tombs of the kings of Judah should
be, I remarked, about 280 English feet east of the great mulberry-tree of Silwan, situated at
the south-west angle of the " Old Pool " of the O. S. map, a curious cavern. The entrance
is very narrow, but the cave, which appears to be in part cut by the hand of man, enlarges
considerably, and plunges almost horizontally into the side of the hill. At the end a pillar,
rudely cut, supports the roof of the cavern, and I think I saw openings to other galleries.
Unfortunately, the interior is in great part filled with earth, so that at certain points one is
obliged to creep in order to pass between the ground and the roof. I undertook a small
excavation in order to ascertain the extent and the direction of this cavern ; above all, its
extent. I cut a narrow trench of no great depth, with the intention of pushing it as far as
the cave extends, intending later on to cut deeper in order to reach the original bottom.
We were already fifteen metres from the entrance when my illness put a stop to the works.
The excavation has, up to the present, produced (i) considerable quantities of bones, which
appear to have been thrown in pell-mell, as into a charnel-house; (2) bits of broken pottery
by the thousand, some of which appear very ancient; (3) a large number of fragments of

* The tomb in question, with all others like it, is suggested by Captain Conder to be
Christian, and not earlier than the Byzantine period.

t M. Clermont Ganneau suggests that the spur north of the Pool of Siloam, generally
called the Ophel Spur, is the ancient Zion.

302 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

great stone vessels, worked all round in flutings and mouldings ; (4) and lastly, one stone
weight. I have brought away all the things indiscriminately, and we have taken out and put
aside for iihotographing sonic as being worthy of attention. It is evident that all this rubbish
has been designedly accumulated in the cavern. It seems to me very curious to know where
this subterranean passage leads. AVithout assuming that it may have a connection with the
Tombs of the Kings, we may suppose that it will teach us something on the topography of
Zion.

Rock-cut Cii.\mi3Ers West oi- the Ecce Homo Church.

' Among my proposed researches I pointed out certain rock-cut chambers immediately
beside the rock in the Ecce Homo Church.* The presence, previously unsuspected, of these
excavations in the interior of Jerusalem, and in a place which is particularly interesting as
regards the topography of the Holy City, is a fact of great importance, and one of my first
cares was to visit the chambers with M. Lecomtc, in order to get an exact plan of them.
The work, which it was desirable should be accurate, was rendered difficult by the com-
I)lication of modern houses placed at different levels, and leaning on the flank of Bezetha,
so as to mask the general direction and particular aspect. We met with an excellent
reception from the residents of the houses — Arabs of Greek religion — and every facility for
accomplishing our task. The work was nearly finished, and there only remained a last visit
to be made to take certain measurements, when an unforeseen accident put an end to our
examinations. The very day when we were to return, an hour before our arrival, the house,
an old tumbledown ruin, saturated with the heavy rains, suddenly fell down. We found
nothing but a mountain of debris, completely barring the Via Dolorosa. We had had a
narrow escape. An hour later and we should have been in the cellars of the house, and in
all probability there would have been an end of all our archaeological labours. Fortunately
the house was uninhabited. The worthy people next door escaped with no worse injury
than a fright. They had, however, to decamp immediately, their own house appearing
desirous of following its neighbour's example, so that it was judged expedient to anticipate its
wish and pull it down at once. This unfortunate contrckmps leaves us with an unfinished
plan on our hands, and I fear they will pile up the fallen stones in such a way as to hinder
access to the chambers. Anyhow, the essential part of the work is done, and the plan, such
as it is, very minute, so far as it goes, gives a good idea of the place.

' The following notes will serve to some extent to describe what we found : —
'You know the escarpment of rock (O. S., No. 72) in the Ecce Homo Church, forming,
with a length of several metres, part of the northern wall of the church. The escarpment
suddenly stops, interrupted by the houses which rise west of the church, and which line the
Via Dolorosa as far as the garden of the Austrian Hospice. It is behind these houses (there
are three) that I found and marked the rock forming a continuation to this escarpment, about
25 metres in length. Proceeding from east to west, in the first house is observed a piece of
rock in nearly the same line as the escarpment of the church. The wall makes almost
directly an obtuse-angled bend to the north-west, and gets buried among buildings where it
cannot be followed. The presence of the rock up to this point is noted by Tobler (" Dritte

* Some of these chambers had been previously mentioned by Dr. T. Tobler. (' Dritte
Wanderung.')

JERUSALEM. 303

Wanderung," p. 249). Passing into the next house, we find the rock with its general direction
to the west (slightly southing), with a length of about 12 metres. Arrived at this point, the
rock offers a peculiarity of double interest to the arclijeologist and topographer. In tlie
vertical wall is cut a corridor, winding at first, which plunges into the masonry and takes a
north-west direction. It divides in two my first chamber, irregularly cut in the living rock,
with fiat ceiling, flanked right and left by two broad stone benches, measuring nearly 2-20 by
2-40 metres. After this it immediately abuts on a second chamber also cut in the rock about
3 by 3 metres, with irregular angles. A space opening out in the wall north of this chamber
loses itself in the earth and masonry. In the last wall is indicated a doorway whose frame-
work has given way ; the upper part alone is pierced, and gives access to a little alcove, which
seems an unfinished chamber. In the south wall two doors have been opened similarly with
fallen-in framework, one of which communicates with the first chamber already described, and
the other debouches into a third chamber cut in the rock, with a complicated arrangement of
benches. This is not all. On the lower floor — the cellar, so to speak, of the house — the
same wall of rock is perceived descending below the actual level of the street. A broad bay
forming a vestibule is cut in it, and gives access to a group of chambers also cut in the
rock, extending in a north-west direction under the chambers above, with which they
communicate by means of a hole.

' Lastly, in the third house near this, the rock is found again, at the end of the lower
caves or chambers ; it has been cut in the same way, and appears to have been cloven by an
earthquake. Immediately beyond is the partition wall separating this last house from the
garden of the Austrian Hospice.

' The exploration of these lower regions was not by any means easy or pleasant, on
account of the mass of filth and rubbish piled up nearly to the roof in the rock-cut chambers,
over which we had to clamber and creep ; one room in which we were obliged to remain
several hours was a mere receptacle of sewage, though fortunately disused for some time.
However, temporary uneasiness is forgotten in thinking how nearly this wretched place was
becoming our tomb.

' Cisterns made at different points along this line of the rock have been sounded by us,
and have given depths which show that the rock extends several metres below the level at
which it ceases to be visible. This line is at a mean distance of about 9 metres at the
back and north of the Via Dolorosa. It is more than probable that it is directly connected
with the rock which was observed in the construction of the Austrian Hospice, at the north-
east angle of the actual building. There also is found a rock-cut chamber which Tobler
(" Dritte Wanderung," pp. 244, 245) is tempted to consider as a stable of great antiquity. It
is difficult for one to pronounce on the destination of this chamber, now transformed into a
cistern and consequently inaccessible ; but I am sure, and M. Lecomte entirely agrees with
me, that the chambers visited and noted by us have not been cut for any such purpose as a
stable ; the only doubt is whether to call them chambers for the living or for the dead. The
latter destination appears much more probable, and in this case it is unnecessary to point
out that sepulchres cut in a i)lace situated more than 250 metres south of the north wall of
the present city, and at a few metres only from the Tower of Antonia, must necessarily go
back to a remote antiquity, and bring us to the time of the Jebusites, or at least to a [leriod
which precedes the reign of Herod Agrippa.

' The people of the house reported to us that, according to an ancient tradition, there
was formerly in one of the higher chambers, into which there is an entrance by the passage

304

TJ]E SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

described above, a chapel dedicated to St. John ilie Baptist (Mar Hanna el m'a moudany).
I do not know what foundation this legend may have, '.t is not impossible that at some time
or other one of these chambers was converted into a little chapel ; if so, the little alcove

spoken of above would certainly serve as a small apse. It appears that some years ago
ancient coins were found in the square opening cut at the end of the second chamber.'

'We can now forward you the plans and sections of the rock-cut chambers near the Ecce

JERUSALEM. - 3°S

Homo Arch. The complicated arrangement of the chambers, and the accident which for
some time kept us from getting access to them, has retarded the preparation of the i)Ians.

' I have considered, in connection with this subject, the rock which is visible at the
Church of the Ecce Homo, ah-eady known, because it has an intimate relation to the
position of the well observed by us. We have thus a full development of the rocks in a
line nearly 42 metres in length. If we consider this line generally on my plan, we observe
that it lies in a direction sensibly constant, only at about the middle of its course it makes a
sharp turn at an obtuse angle, after which it resumes its original orientation. This is
important, because the hne has been cut nearly everywhere with the pickaxe, and is not a
natural formation. This cutting is most visible in the Ecce Homo Church, and is found
again in the rock of the house R, and in that of the adjacent houses Q and R'. In the
house Q it seems now that the cutting has suppressed one of the walls of the chamber cut in
the rock S. This result is a valuable indication for the date of this chamber, and the group
of those of which it forms a part, a date anterior to the period of the cutting of the rock.
(The vestibule Y has undergone a similar excision.)

' If, now, we turn to the general section, and particularly to the small section, we may
easily follow the slope of the rock from east to west in the direction of the slope of the street.

Ik. .. _

The passage, which now debouches into space, might originally have opened upon a layer of
rock which has now disappeared, owing to the same cause which has destroyed a wall in one
of the chambers.

' Another general remark. The normal axes of the chambers and the direction of the
passage form acute and obtuse angles with the present face of the rock, which could not
originally exist, for it would be contrary to all known usage up to the present day in that kind
of excavation.

' We have undertaken two excavations.

' The first, in the chambers cut in the rock between the Austrian Hospice and the church
of the Ecce Homo. I at first tried to push myself into the opening I, at the end of the
chamber P, hoping to arrive at another chamber, or at a primitive entrance. I had to force
my way in the midst of a mass of rolling stones, which shook at every movement. After two
days of stubborn as well as dangerous work, we were obliged to give it up. We have, how-
ever, meanwhile, succeeded in seeing and touching to right and left two vertical walls of roik,
at right angles, the angle being about i metre from the opening. These two walls may
belong to a chamber like that lettered P ; but they may also be the walls of a vestibule,
whose sides were cut in the rock, and which was open to the sky. In favour of this
hypothesis, the ground of the passage I, above the surface of the chamber P, is on a

3o6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

level with that of the region X, still to explore, an arrangement which applies bcUcr to the
entrance of a tomb than to a simple communication between two chambers. Besides, the
enormous mass of stones, against which we have vainly endeavoured to struggle, implies the
existence of a hollow much higher than a single chamber. Either this chamber has lately
given way, or else it was always open to the sky.

'The second e.xcavation is in the Armenian ground (27 O. S.). Captain Warren has
already made an excavation on this side in the Street of the Valley (March, 1869). The
point that I have chosen is 60 metres more to the east, at the lowest point of the ground.
One shaft is already 5 metres deep. I propose to open a shaft to the south-south-cast, in
order to cut the probable line of the second wall'

' In the passage on the left may be remarked a broad " notch," apparently indicating that
the workman wanted to rectify the sinuosity of the passage. The square opening made at
the end of the chamber P seems to communicate with another chamber filled with earth,
which I should very much like to dig. It is a question whether this opening is not the
original entrance to the cave, and whether a passage has not been cut afterwards from the
inside, to attach the chamber V directly with the e.xterior. I must add that the conjecture is
rendered difficult by the configuration of the ground, as one makes it out, the chamber
appearing to plunge into the depth of the hill. On this hypothesis, we should have to admit
that the chamber P communicates with another chamber by the square hole, and that the
chamber filled with earth had its entrance communicating with the exterior by the west face.
In that case, the real primitive entrance of the group of chambers would have to be sought
to the cast of the Austrian Hospice, near the second A in the word IMahometan in the O. S.
map. We may, in fact, admit, without too much temerity, that the side of the hill turns and
faces the west. All this, ho\vever, is purely conjectural.

' If we pass to the examination of the lower chambers, we shall make the following notes.
The people of the house told us that the chamber Q was provided wuth a bench cut in the
rock ; it is impossible to ascertain the fact now, as the place is filled with ordure to the ceiling.
The wall of rock, which we saw in the third house, appears to be in the alignment of the
extremity of the rock of the neighbouring house, Q ; there is, between the two, a solution of
continuity of only a few metres.

' In this third house the rock had been also excavated to make a chamber, partly destroyed.
A piece of the ceiling of this chamber has fallen (section K L) through some movement of
the ground overloaded with houses, or an earthquake. Most likely the latter was the cause,
for the wall of the chamber is cloven vertically.

' If now we search for the origin of this rock-work and the period at which it was eflected,
we are reminded of what Josephus says about the fortress Antonia, which 7cas separated from
the Hill Bezctha, not only naturally, but by means of a deep ditch cut so that the foundations of
Antonia were not at the foot of the hill and, therefore, easy of access. The same historian
informs us, besides, that the second wall, starting from the Gennath Gate, joined Antonia,
only circumscribing the northern region.

' The second wall, then, evidently starting from Antonia, must have been directed to the
west, and turned its face to the north. Now, during the first part, it was exposed to the same
inconveniences as Antonia in being commanded by Bezetha. To the same evil the same
remedy was applied — the rock was cut, or the moat of Antonia extended. Can we not see
in the face of the rock cut by the pickaxe, which we found behind the houses, the counter-
scarp of the prolonged moat, cut to protect, not Antonia, but the second wall ? It was not

JERUSALEM. 3°7

necessary to prolong the moat beyond the point where is now the eastern wall of the garden
of the Austrian Hospice, for at this point the base of Bezetha seems, according to our
observations, to turn to the north, forming one of the sides of the great valley from the
Damascus Gate, which the second wall must necessarily have crossed. In the eastern flank
of this valley were excavated chambers, belonging, perhaps, to a cemetery, of which those
chambers found by us formed a portion. In that case these chambers, cut across by the
moat and consequently older than it, were probably more ancient than the building of the
second wall.

' These facts are of extreme importance in helping us to find the second wall ; it seems
to me that it must have passed between the two streets called " Tarik as Serai al Kadim "
and " Daraj as Serai " in the Ordnance Survey map. Now all the west part of this place is
occupied by a large space of ground belonging to the Catholic Armenians, where I believe I
could easily obtain permission to dig. Captain Warren has already sunk a shaft on this side
in the street Haret el Wad, without results, but possibly he missed the wall by some few
metres.'

The Haram and the Dome of the Rock.

' In one of my recent visits to the Haram, I remarked that m one or two places they had
taken away some of the slabs covering the ground within the Kubbet es Sakhra : (i) before
the gate of the cave ; (2) before the eastern gate called Bab en Neby Daoud. Ascertaining that
on Saturday last they were going to dig at the second point, I went on that day to the Mosque,
but unfortunately too late; the excavation, insignificant (o'3o metre) in dimensions, was
already finished and the hole filled up. Vexed at losing an opportunity which might never
occur again, I succeeded in my entreaties that the excavation should be begun over again
before my eyes. I chose a point different from the first, trying to get as near as possible to
the rock. We attacked the soil again, 0-50 metre, south-south-east of the angle of the south
pillar placed between the eastern gate and the first circle of columns and pillars which sur-
rounds the Sakhra.

'The excavation was pushed to a total depth of 0-90 metre, not counting the thickness
of the upper slab. After a layer (o'3o metre) composed of greyish earth, mixed with stones
and fragments of marble, a bed of cement was reached extremely compact and about o'oy
metre in thickness ; the material was very hard, and the pick struck fire against the fragments
of stone which were mixed up with it. I gathered a specimen of this cement, which is grey
in colour, and seems, like the Arabic cements, to be mixed with cinders and charcoal.

' Immediately beneath this layer appears the red earth, the same as is to be seen in
Jerusalem and its environs, in those places where there have been few inhabitants. We
excavated in this earth for o'33 metre more, till it was impossible to go any lower without
making a regular excavation and exciting susceptibilities. The conclusions to be drawn from
this little sounding are these : (i) There is no rock 0-90 metre below the surface at the point
of examination, which might have been guessed beforehand, as, judging from the Sakhra
itself, the rock must have about here a general inclination of west to east. (2) The existence
of a layer of earth almost untouched. (3) Immediately above this earth a bed of cement,
forming the general substratum of the edifice, and apparently of Arabic origin. (4) A layer
of earth between this and the surface slabs.

39—2

3o8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' A number of Arabic texts, neskfii, flourishes, are daily being discovered in the interior of
the Sakhra during the course of the works ; many of these inscriptions are on plaques of
marble which have been used in covering up the interior walls of the edifice, the bases of
columns, sides of pillars, etc. Many of these texts are interesting from an epigraphic point
of view, or for the history of the Haram. They prove in any case how many successive
alterations the Mosque has undergone. Not only arc these ancient materials which have
been used in the first construction, there are also anterior Arabic materials used for sub-
sequent modifications and alterations. Among these texts I remarked very fair specimens of
Karmatic writing : one in ncskhi contains a part of the Sourah of the Koran called El Koursi ;
and the mention of a work executed by the orders of an Emir Zeyn ed Din, son of Aly, son
of Abdallah, about the year 500 of the Hegira.

' ^^'e have been several times to the Mosque to study the bases of its pillars and columns
uncovered, and the famous semicircular arcading of the external wall. M. Lecomte has
made detailed drawings of our observations, which will reach you with this report. An
important flict has been revealed by the fall of certain mosaics. It is the existence of a string
course in stone in the interior, and nearly in the middle of the drum which supports the
cupola. The profile of this string course appeared to M. Lecomte to resemble a mediaeval
profile of the twelfth century. Here is a new element which appears now only to complicate
still more the already obscure problem of the origin of the actual monument.*

'As for the semicircular arcade of the external wall, it is still very difficult to pronounce
upon it. Up to the present, however, two things are quite certain : (1) The absence of the
mediaeval dressing on the blocks entering into the construction of the wall and the arches ;
(2) the existence on one of the blocks of a mason's mark of undetermined period, having
this form ^. It is on the second pier left of the west door, and the third course above
the leaden roofing.

' A work is about to be undertaken in the Haram, which I shall follow with the greatest
attention. There has been found, it is said, in the wall of the Haram, an Arabic inscription,
which states that by digging at the place where it was written a great quantity of stones will
be found which will serve for repairs or reconstructions. Three years ago, following this
indication, they sunk a shaft of some depth, since covered up, but which I have seen open.
This excavation led to no result. The new director {meinour) sent from Constantinople to
superintend all the Haram works is about to reopen this shaft. The work, in the Haram
itself, may be of the greatest importance, and I shall follow it with the greatest care possible.
The point chosen is a little south of bench mark 23S77 of the Ordnance Survey map.

' The inscription spoken of above is on the exterior of the eastern wall at the height of
the loopholes (second course, counting the battlements), about 133 metres north of the
south-east angle. Observe that at this place is a very sensible break in the continuity of the
Arab wall, seeming to indicate a later repair; the line of junction is oblique, descending
from south to north at an angle of about 45°. The inscription is as follows : " In this place
are stones buried for the use of the Haram esh Sherif."

' The writing is of the kind called sulits. The text presents in construction and ortho-
graphy certain faults which seem to indicate a Turkish hand. It may be that this text was
contemporary with the works executed in the reign of the Sultan Selim, who repaired the

* See paper on ' Architectural History of Jerusalem ' as to Crusading work in the Dome
of the Rock.

JERUSALEM. 309

ramparts of the city. The first excavation undertaken under Kondret Bey on these indica-
tions had been placed immediately behind the inscription. The m'cmoUr proposes to open it
a little farther to the north, and, if necessary, to push a trench parallel to the wall. Accord-
ing to Captain AVarren's map, we ought to light on the rock at a depth of about i o metres.
It remains to be seen whether the inscription is in its original place.

' On going back to the Haram we examined a veiy fine base placed near the entrance of
the magazine close to El Aksa, at the east. The lower face is entirely covered by a beautiful
Arabic inscription in relief, the meaning of which I made out at once, to the great astonish-
ment of my Mussulman companions. It relates the restoration or construction of a sur-
rounding wall {sour) of the city, or Haram, under the reign of the Sultan el Melik el
Mansour self ed den Kilaoun es sal(^hy. This Sultan, seventh king of the Mameluke dynasty
of the Baharites, reigned from 678 to 698 of the Hegira (1279 — 1290 a.d.).

'The Arabic historian of Jerusalem, Mejir ed Din, mentions among the works e.xecuted
by order of this Sultan, a.h. 678, the reconstruction of the " roof" of the Mesjid el Aksa, on
the south-west side, near the Mosque of the Prophets. Such, in fact, states the Arabic text
published at Cairo. It is evident that the editors have made the mistake of writing sagafior
sour, roof for walL This is clear (t) from the possible confusion of these two words in
Arabic writing; (2) from the impossibility of speaking of the roof oi the Mesjid el Aksa, the
phrase meaning the whole Haram ; (3) from the inscription which I have just quoted.

' Between the El Aksa and the Sakhra I observed, at the foot of the south staircase which
leads to the platform, on the left, a fragment of a moulding with the mediceval dressing
strongly marked. This morceau, which M. Lecomte will sketch on the first opportunity, is
extremely interesting, because it furnishes us with a moulding belonging without possible
doubt to the period of the Crusades, further specimens of which we shall doubtless find in
edifices of date hitherto undetermined. In the barrack wall I have found another, of which
also we shall take a drawing.

' We have at length been enabled to examine closely the base of the arches hitherto
hidden by a casing of marble, over the columns of the intermediary peristyle of the Kubbet
es Sakhra. One of the external faces was stripped, and we obtained leave to mount a ladder
and examine the capital closely. You will have a drawing of it ; meantime here are a few
words of description which will give an idea of the arrangement, to the knowledge of which
archceologists attach great importance.

' The capital of the column is surmounted by a cubical abacus, over which passes the
beam which runs all round the edifice. This beam consisted of two pieces of wood, clamped
by a dovetailed coupHng. The point of junction is in the middle of the abacus. Upon the
beam rest the abutments of the arches. It is evident that this part of the beam, now masked
by the marble casing, was originally intended to be seen, because we found the ornamenta-
tion of the beam continuing under the marble. As for the abacus, it seems clear that it was
always intended to be covered with some kind of ornamentation, for its bare surface and
its rudeness would have made a disagreeable contrast with the richness of the general
decoration.

' As for the presence of the beam passing over the capitals, one can only remember the
classical fact not long since mentioned by M. de Vogiie, in these terms : — " The presence of
the wooden tiebeam is characteristic ... it appears to be of Arab invention, for it is found
in the greater number of early mosques, such as the Mosque of Amrou at Cairo, and the
Mosque el Aksa, and has never been found, so far as I know, in any church of the fifth or

3'o

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

sixth century." We have now to see what is hidden by the marble casing which surmounts
the column of the interior perimeter. I hope to obtain equal facilities in this investigation.

' It may be interesting to note here an observation that I have recently made, and which
I have never seen anywhere else. The scaffolding now erected within the Kubbct es Sakhra
has enabled me to examine closely the mosaics ornamenting the walls. I have ascertained
that on many of the vertical walls in the interior of the Kubbet es Sakhra, the coloured and
gilded little cubes of glass which produce together so marvellous an effect arc not sunk in
the walls so that their faces arc vertical, but are placed obliquely, so that the faces make an

CAPITAL IN THE KUBBET ES SAKHRA.

angle with the walls. This ingenious inclination is evidently intended to present their many-
coloured facets at the most effective angle of incidence to the eye below. Such is the simple
secret which produces the dazzling and magical effect of this decoration. Curiously, the same
method has been followed in the construction of the splendid windows of the edifice. They
consist of plaster cut into charming designs ; in the holes so formed are fixed small pieces of
coloured glass, arranged with exquisite taste. I have been able to examine a fragment of one
of the window frames, and I observed that all these bits of glass arc inserted obliquely, and
not vertically, so as to overhang and meet the eye of the visitor at right angles, whence this
charming brightness of colour. Perhaps this arrangement of the mosaics belongs to a

JERUSALEM. 311

certain known epoch, perhaps to the time of the construction of the windows, /.(•., the six-
teenth century.

' At last we are able to send you the results of our examination of the balustrade of the
Kubbet es Sakhra, and of a certain number of the bases belonging to the columns of the
edifice. This work has cost a great deal of time, and has been necessarily delayed. We
have at least the satisfaction of forwarding precise and definite information on these important
parts of the mosque, only recently discovered and already beginning to disappear. AVith the
photograph you have already received, and the five plates sent with this containing
M. Lecomte's drawings, you will be able to attack with profit the interesting questions
raised by these unlooked-for facts, facts which may throw precious light upon the much
disputed origin of this monument.

' During the course of the repairs several columns of the intermediate peristyle of
the Kubbet es Sakhra have been laid bare by the removal of the marble casing which
covered up the bases. One of these columns has even had its abacus partially exposed,
as I stated in my previous report.

' By reference to Plate 2 of the Ordnance Survey the positions of the columns examined
can be easily ascertained : A, column south of the south-east face ; B, column north of the
same face ; C, column south of the east face ; E, column north of the same face ; F, column
north of the north-east face ; I, column of the south face, represents a column and a base,
having already undergone a restoration which will very soon cover up all the preceding.

' The other bases of the intermediary peristyle have not yet been stripped of their old
covering ; as to that of the interior perimeter, none has yet been touched. We wait im-
patiently for the moment when they will undergo this operation.

'A glance at the drawings will show the form of their bases better than any description.
It sufinces to show one positive fact : that they are heterogeneous. We cannot certainly deny
that there is a great resemblance in the profiles A, B, C, if we only consider form ; but the
proportions, sensibly different for each of these three bases, do not permit us to refer them
to a single type. Besides, they vary in every case absolutely from the base E, as much in
the dimensions as in the dispositions of the mouldings. Finally, the marble in which they
are cut is not of the same kind for each.

'The aspect of the bases fully confirms what the variety of modules in the columns above
them might teach us — the opinion of those who see in the primitive building ancient materials
from various sources used over again. This use, which seems very improbable in an ancient
work, even of late period, is on the contrary quite in accordance with Arab customs. It is
clear that if the bases and columns, whatever their absolute age, had been specially made for
the Kubbet es Sakhra, they would all be alike. The builders would have no interest in
seeking for the absence of symmetry, which shows itself not only in the variation of profile
in the bases, but also in differences of thickness and height in the shafts. No caprice, no
supposed intention, can account for the last and grave irregularity which the sketches show.
It was so striking that it fully justifies the adaptation of these false bases, which are at least
regular, formed of marble slabs; it is very probable that from the very beginning the de-
formities of the halting columns had been disguised by this dress of marble, and that this
remedy is as old as the evil. The value of this fact is proved when one reflects that these
bases and these heteroclite columns support a wall ornamented with mosaics, dated from the
year 72 of the Hegira (a.d. 691), that is, the very year of the first construction of the Arab
edifice.

312 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' To coniijletc this group of bases, M. Lccomte has made notes of three others, which
arc found outside the building, to the right of the east and north porches (the gate Neby
Daoiid, and that of Paradise). We know that these porches have been added to the building,
and arc not an integral part of it. Consequently, we cannot draw any conclusions, in the
sense of the ])rcceding, from the aspect of these bases. Nevertheless, they deserve, by
their singularity, to be brought to the attention of architects.

' G is on the north side, and H on the south of the eastern gate (Ordnance Survey,
Plate II.).

' D is on the west side of the north floor.

' They are in one block, and show a bastard profile, formed by mouldings, which are
complicated and do not belong to any determined category. They present one curious
detail, on which M. Lecomte rightly insists, because it may put us on the path of their origin,
'{'he higher part of the base surmounting the ])edestal has one of its faces lightly curved, as
the sketch of the base G shows, in which the torus projects beyond the vertical face of the
plinth. These bases, although different in detail, appear to belong to one building, and the
same part of the building, perhaps circular.

' M. Lecomte's elevation on the scale of i-ioo shows two of the sides of the octagon, the
west and the south-west At the right extremity of the south-west side has been shown a
portion of the tile covering, to show the way in which this interesting and unsuspected arrange-
ment was masked. If we begin by studying this latter face, we shall remark that the wall is
pierced by seven high and narrow semicircular arches (a fact already known), of which the upper
half forms the bay of the windows lighting the interior. The lower half is solid, and covered
with a plating of marble ; the bays of the two arches at the extremities are blind, and not
blinded, as the arrangement shows. Above the great arches runs a jjrojecting band, which
gives passage to six leaden gargoyles, by which the rain-water runs out above the six piers.
This band is surmounted by a high course, which supports a series of small semicircular
arches, resting on colomdtes grouped two and two.

' These arches, of which there are thirteen on each of the two sides seen, have been
closed subsequently to their construction. In fact, (i) the side of the wall which fills them
up is in the same plane as the general face of the wall and the cutting of the capitals of the
columns ; (2) the columns are in fact part covered up by the filling in ; (3) the filling in is
effected by stones quite different from the rest of the building ; (4) one of the arches in the
west front has been opened, and has given evidence that it was originally destined to be
always so.

' Lastly, immediately above the little arcades, at a tangent to their extrados, runs a
terminal cornice, the profile of which is extremely difficult to restore, so much has it
suffered.

' The western face shows the same arrangement. \\'e remark only that the last of the
higher arches on the right extremity has been opened during the works, and that the great
central arch which serves as the door is broader than the six other arches. This breadth has
been secured by the narrowing of the bays, the breadth of the piers remaining sensibly the
same. The proportions of the higher arches remaining unaltered, there results a general
difference between the west and the south-west faces ; in the latter the higher arches are
calculated in such a manner that their axis, two by two, corresponds with the axis of the
arches below, if we count i, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 ; with the axis of the piers if we count 2, 4,
6, 8, 10, 12. In the west face, on the other hand, this correspondence does not exist

JERUSALEM.

313

' The drawing represents in stippling the projection of the porch, whicli is supposed to
have been taken away to show the original entrance. The surface of the blocks of the whole
construction has a good deal suffered. It is, besides, covered with holes, serving to fix the
casing which covered it. As a result, the dressing (tool marks) has almost wholly disappeared ;
we have, however, been able to ascertain that the dressing is not that which I have shown
to be mediaeval. The only lapidary sign which we have noticed is engraved on the third

course of stones, below the left abutment of the third great arch of the western face, starting
from the left. It is, as may be seen from the copy of it in Plate 28, too indeterminate in
form to permit us to attach it to one epoch rather than another.

' It is more than probable that the six other faces of the octagonal wall, still concealed
by the tiles, would show e.xactly the same respective disposition as these two, if they were also
stripped.

3'4

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' Starting from the band, the wall in which the higher arches are built is much less thick
than the great wall on which it rests ; this appears to indicate that it has originally been treated
as a lighter construction, not having so much to support.

' The existence of these arches running all round the monument reveals to us a previous
state very different to the present aspect, and raises curious historical questions.

' Above all, we should take account of two essential facts : (i) the arches are semicircular;
(2) they were originally destined to remain open.

* This fact established, if we try to determine the date of this building exclusively by the
aid of technical considerations, we shall be much embarrassed. We may nevertheless hold
for certain that the whole wall, from the higher arches fy the half of the louver arches — that is
to say, in the whole of its height which has been exposed — is, in spite of the differences of

ELEVATIOH

: '• --^i ' « • '- " "■' vi-. • 'V ■■■*///'/']

PLAN

wri

thickness, of homogeneous construction, and can have only one date. As for the part below,
it is difficult to pronounce. The casing of marble hides the true wall, e.\cept at the right
feet of the gate of the western face, where it seems to show that the wall is entirely the same
from the top to the bottom.

' Besides the absolute age of the construction, it remains to fix the period of the trans-
formation which it subsequently underwent, and which led to the stopping up of the upper
arches. It is evident that the transformation is at least contemporaneous with the decoration
of the monument by means of the tiles placed upon the wall : the beautiful sourate of the
Koran (Yasin) in white letters on a blue ground, which runs all round the eight faces of the
octagon, passes away nearly in the middle of the upper arches. Although the employment
of these tiles, called keshany, is of different dates, there is a general agreement in fi.xing the

JERUSALEM. 315

first application of them in the sixteenth century. It is easy to understand that the decorators
in trying to get as large a surface as possible to cover with their enamelled tiles, thought of
gaining this surface at the expense of these closed arches, which had perhaps a long time
before lost their natural use, and which were treated as a higher prolongation of the
wall.*

' What was this natural use ? To answer this question we must go back six centuries, to
the time of the Latin kingdom of Jerusalem. We have several descriptions of the Templum
Domini, made by contemporary authors. Among these descriptions there are none more
exact and more detailed than that of John of Wirzburg. Unfortunately, I have not with me
the original text, and I quote from the partial translations of Tobler and De Vogiie the
following important passage : " Between the e.xternal wall (pierced by four doors and by
windows) .... and the interior columns (12 + 4) supporting the interior wall, less broad,
higher, and pierced by twelve windows, there is a row of sixteen columns and eight pillars.
This circle of columns supports a roof which joins the interior to the exterior wall, and a
ceiling ornamented with beautiful caissons. The roof is surrounded by a contiiii/ous gallery,
with pipes of lead to carry off the rain water." This description applies admirably to the
monument in its present state, and proves how few were the essential modifications which
the Kubbet es Sakhra has undergone since it ceased to be the Templum Domini.

' As to the valuable detail which terminates the description of John of Wirzburg, it appears
to me to exactly correspond with the description brought to light by the repairs. Here is
Tobler's translation, in his own words : " Am unterm Dache war ein Rundgang zum
Lustwandel und bleierne Rohren schenkten das Regenwasser aus." The lower roof is that
properly so called in opposition to the cupola ; the " Rundgang zum Lustwandel " is a gallery
running round.

' There is no possible doubt our arches are nothing else than a little portico surrounding
this gallery ; the inclined roof would, at its lower end, approach the horizontal, or, at least,
stop suddenly to permit a passage, which would not need to be very broad. The breadth of
the lower wall (i metre) is of itself sufificient. A spout and leaden pipes, corresponding
with the present gargoyles, would suffice for the rain-water to pass away.

' A man standing upright in the internal wall is just able to look without by the bays of
these arches, whose height, measured from the summit of the arch to the base represented
by the great wall, is at least 2 metres.

' It is not necessary to remark how this explanation accounts for the existence, and justifies
the utility of this little portico, which, later on, closed and transformed into a wall, seemed
to have no reason at all for existence, and gave to the eight faces of the octagon the unpleasing
appearance of eight panels cut out in cardboard. Unfortunately, the repairs follow the same
error, and this light colonnade, exposed for one moment, will again be transformed into a
massive wall, this time not even having the excuse of bearing the elegant fayence of
Soliman.

' Henceforth we may hold for certain that such was the disposition of the Templum
Domini. I will add that we may see a vague but real confirmation in the reproduction of this
edifice which figures on the seal of the Templars ; there are clearly to be distinguished two
rows of bays superposed.

* As to the date of this wall, see the paper on the 'Architectural History of Jerusalem.'

40 — 2

3i6 IJIE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' This gallery, adorned with porticos still in use at the time of the Crusaders, the traces
of which are now wholly lost — did it exist before their time ? I think that wc may, without
hesitation, reply that it did, for plenty of reasons : the absence of medieval dressing, the use
of the semicircle, the historical certainty that the Crusaders had never interfered with the
work, as a whole, of the Kubbet es Sakhra, the homogeneous nature of the arcade and
the wall which supports it.

' To these general reasons one more precise may be added. A I'crsian author, Nasir
ibn Khosrou, who visited the Kubbet es Sakhra in the year 438 of the Hcgira, that is to
say, some years before the first Crusade, describing the exterior wall of the Kubbet, says
that it was so " yards " high and 33 long, on each side of the octagon. I have not the
original here, and forget what was the exact measure called by the English translator. Major
A. R. Fuller, a yard, consequently I do not know the real dimensions expressed by the
author. At any rate, the proportion of hcighth to breadth was as 20 : 33. Now these
dimensions are actually 12 and 27 metres. In order that the ratio of Nasir's dimensions
should be as I : 2, there wants 7-66ths ; in order that the ratio of the actual dimensions
should be as I : 2, there wants 1-18. Now, the difference between i-iS and 7-66 is only 5-99,
a difference so small that we may neglect it, and conclude in consequence that the wall before
the Crusades was the same height as it is now. And we have seen above that it may be
considered as produced at a single effort.

'As to the period which extends between this epoch and that of the firsl construction,
the field is still open to conjectures as to what concerns this part of the monument.

' If we wanted to find examples of analogous dispositions we might, as M. Lecomte suggests,
find the point de depart in certain edifices of central Syria, towards the fifth or sixth century.
As to relations with other places, we might multiply them, but without great advantage to the
chronological elucidation of the special question which occupies us.'

' I have at length succeeded, after many researches in the various libraries in Jerusalem
to which I have access, in getting at the original text of John of AVirzburg, and in studying
the principal passage of this author on the little arcade round the Sakhra. Here is the
passage : —

'"Supra se etiam, juxta tectum, locum deambulatorium circum quaque exhibentibus et
habentibus canales plumbeos qui aquam pluviatilem evoniunt."

' The construction of the phrase is sufficiently obscure, and the manner in which Tobler
and M. de Vogiid render it seems to me a paraphrase rather than a translation. If we keep
to the text, taking the architecture itself as our commentary, it seems that supra sc should
mean, in the incorrect language of the author, " above the exterior wall " of which we have
just been speaking, as well as of the interior wall, and not "above the roof," since imme-
diately afterwards we \xx\q jiixla tectum, "near the roof." It is the only exi)lanation possible,
if we admit the punctuation adopted by the editor of the text and followed by these two
learned archreologists. But I think that this punctuation, which makes of the words supra se
a phrase by themselves, is an error ; and, in fact, by cutting up the text in this fashion, the
words exhibentibus et habentibus belong to nothing at all. Replace the colon by a comma,
and restore the passage as follows: — "cum pulchcrrimis laqueariis supra se etiam, juxta
tectum," etc., and translate : " Between the two walls there is an intermediary roof, with a
beautiful panelled ceiling, over which (which has above it), running all round, is a gallery,
and which has leaden pipes for getting rid of rain water." From this rigorous translation, it

JERUSALEM. 3' 7

is clear that the gallery was above the ceiling, and therefore had a large relative width, not
being limited to the breadth of the wall. Possibly the inclination of the roof stopped
suddenly before reaching the external wall, surmounted by arcades, and let the water fall
upon the floor of the gallery : here they would be caught by the leaden gutters and thrown
out by gargoyles placed most likely at the same points as we now see them. Tobler trans-
lates canaks by ro/iren, De Vogiie by fnyaiix. It is better, I think, to use the French word
cJicneaux derived from it, and signifying, not a tubular conduit, but an open canal.

Excavation within the Haram.

' The excavation undertaken by the Memour against the interior of the east wall of the
Haram, of which I have already spoken, has been sunk to more than 30 feet. The point
chosen is nearly r6o metres (173 y.irds) south of the (iolden Gate. We have now reached,
and even passed below, the level of the soil outside. The excavation has led to no archaeo-
logical or practical result, nor any traces of the dressed stones searched for. It has passed
through made-up earth mixed with pottery, cubes of mosaic, fragments of marble, etc. We
descended the shaft, which is not very cleverly made, and narrowly framed in. We were
able to examine the wall as far as the shaft goes, and can state that the stones have no
mediaeval dressing. ... I am afraid that the shaft will, be shortly closed.

' At the bottom of the shaft the wall presents two successive sets back, the first 3 inches
of projection and 15 inches of height ; the lower yi- inches of projection, with a height as yet
undetermined. At a point 6 feet 6 inches above the first projection the wall shows a very
sensible change in construction, seeming to indicate two successive visible epochs, visible
also from the outside : the more ancient below, the more modern above, naturally.

' Now a few remarks on my visits to the Haram. The blocks of the inner side of the
exterior wall of the Kubbet es Sakhra, visible in the frame of the wooden stair leading to the
roof, are pierced by numerous openings, in which have been inlaid small pieces of flint,
having their visible faces cut and polished. I cannot explain the purpose of this singular
arrangement, which has perhaps a superstitious origin. The dressing of the blocks is not
mediaeval.

' The application of the rule of medieval dressing has led us to establish several important
facts in the enceinte of the Mesjid. (i) Great bases of engaged columns on the platform and
near the Mosque of the Mogrebbin, certainly mediaeval. (2) Various fragments of archi-
tecture of the same origin built up here and there. (3) Medieval stones and gate in the
wall north of the gallery, which joins the Aksa to the Mosque of the Mogrebbin.* (4) The
whole sottth-west angle of the esplanade of the Sakhra is entirely niediaval. (5) Several but-
tresses on the west side of the platform are made up of materials of the Middle Ages. I
observed on the pillars of the porch north of the Haram a large number of Latin masons'
marks (pricked with the point of the tool) ; they are engraved on great blocks, which have
been stripped of their mediaval dressing. I suppose them to be older blocks simply used
again by the Crusaders, who put signs on them to facilitate placing them in proper positions.

This gallery was already known to be the refectory built by the Knights Templar.

3'S THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Inscription in the Haram.

' I have rediscovered, within the Haram, an inscription of some importance, pointed out
by several Mussulman authors. Up to the present time we have not been able to establisli
its existence : it is a stone on which are inscribed the dimensions of the Haram measured at
a very ancient period.

'The Arab chronicler of Jerusalem, Medjr ed Din (p. 29 of the text edited at Boulaq),
after having recorded that Hafiz ibn Asakir assigns to the Haram 755 royal dhraa of length
and 465 dhraa of breadth, ([uotes this passage of one of his i>redecessors, the author of the
" iMuthir el Ghoram," from which he repeatedly borrows : — " I saw, a long time ago, in the
north wall, above the door adjacent to the Eab ed Uouidariye, inside the surrounding wall, a
slab on which are inscribed the length and breadth of the Haram. These measurements do
not agree with what we have stated above. It is there said that the length is 784 dhraa, and
the breadth 455 ; the nature of the dhraa is specified, but I was not able to see if it was the
dhraa mentioned above, or another, on account of the writing being injured."

' The Persian Hadji, Nasir ibn Khosrou, who came on pilgrimage in the year 438 (a.m.),
and consequently before the Crusades, saw this slab also. " On the northern side, which is
contiguous to the Dome of Yakub (on whom be peace !), I observed an inscription on a
tablet, to the effect that the Mosque was 704 yards.long and 455 yards by the Malak (measure)."
— Major Fuller's translation.

' This inscription I have just found by accident fitted into the wall of one of the many
Arab Medre'si^s which adjoin the northern face of the Haram ; it is immediately to the right,
coming out of the Bab el Atme, which seems to correspond to the " Bab ed Douidariye " of
the ancient account. In order to see it, you must mount the steps of a stair leading to the
upper floor of the Medresd The stone is of hard inczzch, and the wTiting neshky, carelessly
traced. It is composed of four lines separated by four horizontal strokes ; the first being
broken, with nothing on it but the traditional invocation, " Bismillah er Rahman er Rahim."
After this I read, without much difficulty, as follows : — " The length of the Mesjid is seven
hundred .... and four dhraa, and its breadth is four hundred, fifty, and five dhraa, the
dhraa of . . . ."

' The length is broken off in the tens, but we cannot hesitate between thirty {thalathbi),
and eighty {thamanin) : according to the author of the " Muthir el Ghoram," the last number
would be the true one. Nasir seems as well to have been embarrassed in the reading of the
last number, and to have omitted altogether the doubtful number of tens. The last word,
containing the designation of the kind of dhraa, is hard to make out ; it was also hard in the
time of the author of the " Muthir el Ghoram." Nasir does not hesitate to write the word
Malak (of the king), but the appearance of the original makes me doubt the exactness of
this reading.

' Now that we are on this point, which is not without interest, let me notice further that
the author of the " Muthir el Ghoram " gives as dimensions of the Haram, measured by the
line, in his time, 683 dhraa for the length of the east side, and 650 dhraa for that of the
west ; the breadth, taken outside the surrounding wall, being estimated at 483 dhraa.

'In another passage (p. 377) Medjr ed Din also gives us the result of his personal ob-
servations on this point He measured the Haram with a cord twice over, and found for the
length, north to south, from the Mihrab of David to the Bab el Esbat (not counting the walls),

JERUSALEM. 7,^9

660 dhraa (the common dhraa), and for the breadth, between the cemetery of Bab er Rahme
and the Medr^se of Tenguiz, 406 dhraa.

MVe have now before us very different figures and divergences, the more difScuU to
harmonise because they spring from the differences in the dhraa employed ; further difficulties
are the manner and points of measurement, and the broken condition of the inscription
Cjuoted ; all perhaps evincing, which would be of interest to us, real variation in the extent
of the Haram at certain epochs in the Mussulman rule.

' I have already informed you [in a private letter] of the existence of mosaics within the
arcades of the outer wall of the Kubbet es Sakhra. It results from this fact that between the
period when these arcades were opened and when they were completely covered by the fayence
tiles now placed on them, they passed through an intermediary stage ; that is, they were built
up and transformed into little niches, the interior walls of which received a rich ornamentation
of mosaics in coloured and gilt glass. If, as I have said before, these arcades were open and
formed a part of the gallery in existence at the time of the Crusades, we must admit that
this transformation is later than the Crusades, and the addition of the mosaics to be the work
of the Arabs, perhaps that of Saladin.

' We know that Saladin must have subjected the Kubbet es Sakhra to many changes in order
to efface the traces of Christian worship which had made the Mussulman sanctuary the Templum
Domini. These mosaics are good enough, in colour and design, to belong to such a date.
Thanks to the kindness of the Memour, who uncovered a second arcade next to the first, I
ascertained that each arch had received the same ornamentation. The mosaics had dis-
appeared from this arch, leaving marks in the casing to prove where they had been placed.
M. Lecomte made a careful study of these mosaics, shattered as they were, and has succeeded
in restoring the principal subject of the decoration in accordance with the position of the
colours. You will receive, if not by this mail, at least by the next, the result of this restora-
tion. By the intersection of the pattern, crosses are formed, to which I think it would be
difficult to assign anything beyond a geometrical origin and value.

' The presence, duly ascertained, of mosaics outside the Kubbet es Sakhra, is a fact of
much interest in the history of this building, because it had been often doubted, in spite
of the formal affirmation of the ancient descriptions. From John de Wirzburg to Medjr ed
Din, all authors agree in saying that the Kubbet es Sakhra was adorned with mosaics inside
and outside. The last trace of this system of decoration has disappeared from the outside,
since the general application of the fayence — that is to say, since the sixteenth century.

The So-called Tomb of Joseph of Arimath^a.

' About twenty yards west of the Holy Sepulchre, in the church itself, is a little crypt
traditionally known as the Tomb of Joseph of Arimath^a, or the Tombs of Joseiih and
Nicodemus. The question whether this crypt is ancient or not has long been recognised as
one of the essential elements in the great controversy over the authenticity of the
Sepulchre,*

* It is this sepulchre which Captain Conder suggests to be that of the Kings of Judah
(see paper on the ' Architectural History of Jerusalem ' at the commencement of this
volume).

320 TITE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

'The ascertained existence in this place of remains belonging without doubt to a Jewish
burial-place, would at once remove one of the principal objections to the authenticity of the
site.

'The question may, in fact, be resolved into two propositions, the latter subordinate to
the former — viz., (i) Can the traditional Sepulchre, which is within the walls of the modern
city, really be a Jewish tomb? and (2) If so, can it be the Tomb of our Lord ?

' The presence round the Sepulchre of a group of ancient tombs would solve the first
difficulty, which many desire to see removed before proceeding to the second. They do not
see their way to admit that there were, in the time of our Lord, tombs existing on the spot
which now is shown as His. It is, therefore, most important to establish, if jiossiblc, the fact
that the shrine now adored has, or may have, within it, if not the very tomb in which Jesus
was laid, at least a real Jewish tomb.

' Both adversaries and partisans of the Sepulchre have appreciated the value of this
]ireliminary difficulty, and have from the first made it the starting-point of their argument.
But neither have, in my opinion, produced an exhaustive examination of the place in
dispute.

' I have been enabled, by a careful study of this crypt, to ascertain sundry points which I
believe have not been noticed by my predecessors, and which appear to me decisive in this
question.*

' A few yards west of the Holy Sepulchre, which rises isolated in the midst of the rotunda
of the church, we enter, after passing through two of the columns on which the cupola rests,
a little chapel belonging to the Syrians. At the end of the chapel is an apse looking west.
A passage on the left, at the commencement of the apse, gives access obliquely to a narrow
and dark retreat partly formed by walls cut in the rock, and partly by the wall belonging to
the church itself.

' There is a step cut in the rock. Mounting this, we see at our feet, by the uncertain
light of a smoky lamp, a black and angular hole in the rocky soil. A few inches beyond we
have before us the wall cut vertically in the rock. In the middle of this wall is an arcade,
semicircular and sunk in the wall, about 4 feet in height by 24 feet in breadth. It covers
two smaller arched openings, two black and gaping jaws — kokim (K J, Fig. 2), which are
sunk horizontally into the rocky foundation to a depth which we shall presently learn.

' On the right is another wall of rock, making, with that of the end, an obtuse angle.
Two other openings (I H) are pierced in it, but these are walled up. Between the second
mouth and the entrance of the vault the wall is constructed ; in it is a door (E) shut with a
key.

'The wall on the left is made up of a thick wall (Fig. i) which traverses diagonally the
ditch cut in the ground, and forms, with the two other walls, two very acute angles. The
lamp is suspended to this wall.

' This singular retreat is therefore triangular. Two only of the sides are of rock, the third
being a part of the wall belonging to the church, which appears to have been thus built across
a pre-existing cave. The greater part of the roof is also cut in the rock.

' At the left extremity of the wall, at the back, beside the opening of the hole K, we may

♦ Sir Charles Wilson has pointed out (' Quarterly Statement, 1877, p. 129) that the side
chambers which M. Clermont Ganneau notices were already shown in the Plan accom-
panying the Ordnance Survey notes on this tomb.

JERUSALEM.

321

recognise the existence of a third opening similar to the others, but walled up and partly
hidden by the thick oblique wall. The stopping of this opening is not so perfect but that we
can insert a thin stick and prove that here is a third place, L, parallel to the other two, and
lying, like those, horizontally in the rock.

' On the wall to right we make a similar observation. There was once following the two
openings I H, in the place occupied by the little closed gate E, a third opening parallel
to the preceding. It is easy to ascertain, towards the point O, the commencement of the
lateral wall of the opening now destroyed.

' Already in this disposition of rock-cut openings had been recognised the general form
of Jewish tombs, which consists of a small square cave, with a certain number (generally
3+3 + 3) of lociili in three of the four faces. But even those who admitted this resemblance
were unable to give a satisfactory account of the primitive form which belonged to this cave,

and could offer no reply to the grave objections which their adversaries made on certain
strange peculiarities.

' Before proceeding further, let us consider a point which has contributed largely to the
controversy ; it is the kind of hole cut in the rocky floor of the chamber in front of the
loculus K, which I have already mentioned. It consists of a triangular opening, Z G, the
angle of which is opposed to the oblique wall on the left. The two sides of this angle show
on the edge a small groove or rebate, probably intended to receive a horizontal slab. Along
the wall the edges of the trench are irregularly cut away.

' On descending (at G) into this hollow, which is 3 feet 7 inches deep, we find ourselves
in a kind of long cave, marked in dots on the plan, which runs partly (especially on the
right between S S) under the rock ; thus we can see at G how it penetrates beneath the
locidi K J. This hole is less than 5 feet long by i foot 8 inches in breadth. Certainly
no adult body could have been placed in it. Still less, again, in the hole Z, which is close
to G, and separated from it only by a thin partition cut in the rock. This is rectangular,

322

THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

and 2 feet in length by i foot 7 inches in breadth ; it is i^artly covered over by a fragment
of flat rock. Its height is 2 feet 7 inches. Between the edge of the rock forming the
ceiUng and the upper edge of the partition, which separates the two trenches Z H, there
is only 10 inches of breadth.

' The smallness of these dimensions renders the examination of these holes extremely
difficult That is probably the reason why no one before me ever ascertained a fact oj

capital importance, so much so as to profoundly modify all received ideas up to the present on one
side and the other.

' But before stating what I may without any exaggeration call a discovery, let mc return
to a few details which are not without interest.

' Those who maintain the apocryphal character of the Holy Sepulchre, relying on the
dimensions of the two latter holes (to which tradition attaches the names of Joseph of
Arimatha;a and Nicodemus) deny them any sepulchral character, because they are not large
enough to contain the bodies of adults. The objection is specious, and it has been even
pushed to an extreme by the supposition that we have here a pseudo-sepulchre hollowed out
at the period of the Crusaders on a Jewish model, in order to furnish a material justification
of the legend. I need not point out how inadmissible this supposition is, and how little in

JERUSALEM.

323

accordance with popular habits, which generally imagine the legend in order to explain the
monument.

' It might be replied that we have simply two hollow places excavated as ossuaries, and
intended to receive the bones accumulated in the sepulchre either directly or by means of
those little funerary chests or coffins of which I collected so many and such curious specimens
during my mission.

' The same objection has been urged against the loculi K J placed in the higher level. In
fact, these two loculi hardly measure more at the present moment than 5 feet in depth, which
is insufficient for a body of ordinary proportions.

' The loculi have in general a depth of 6 feet 6 inches ; and it must be owned that this
time the objection is more embarrassing than before, and that those who think these are
fictitious or artificial sepulchres may find an occasion for triumph over this argument. The
reply, however, although it has never to my knowledge been made, is easy.

' We saw above that the mouths of the two loculi are within a sunken arcade ; hollowed

out, that is, of the flat vertical wall. Suppose for a moment that the arcade was made after
the loculi. What follows ? The loculi wovX^ be increased in length by the space which they
lost in sinking the arcade, as the arcade would have simply shortened the loculi by cutting
away the front part. Well, that is e.xactly what has happened. The loculi originally extended
as far as S S in the drawing ; we have the material proof. The removal of the rock has not
been so skilfully effected as not to leave behind the visible traces of this original extension.
These traces are easily to be recognised in the engraving of the cave.

' W'e. must also observe that this unmistakable mark, which goes considerably beyond the
end of the arcade, is slightly in advance of the perpendicular face of the wall, which would
tend to prove that the wall itself had experienced a slight setting back.

'If we proceed to restore the loculi to their original dimensions by measuring them from
the end to the line S S, we shall find ample room for our regulation two metres.

' But, it will be asked, for what purpose was this arcade hollowed out and the two loculi
thus disfigured .' For what purpose ? Here we may introduce our legend. Popular belief
attached to this place the names of Joseph and Nicodemus. The double site has been

41—2

3^4

THE SURVEY OF WESTER. \ PALESTINE.

localized in the two lociili, visible at once to pilgrims, to this crypt half destroyed by the
construction of the church. Then, in order to fix this association indissolubly to the spot,
and to give the sanctuary in course of formation a religious consecration, they constructed
this kind of niche, convenient for the purposes of worship, and lending to these openings
thus connected the aspect of a little chapel. I am convinced, for my own part, that in the
Middle Ages the two tombs revered were the two loculi^ and not, as is generally admitted, the
two little subterranean hollows to the consideration of which I must now come.

' If we descend into hole G and contrive to introduce a head into the narrow opening of
Z (lo inches) to examine its walls, we shall be amply rewarded for this disagreeable kind of
tour de force, which makes the archseologistj so to speak, stand on his head. The same
results can, to be sure, be arrived at by lying flat on the ground and then sliding into tlie
hole head first : a position quite as uncomfortable as the first. We perceive, then, that the

rectangular hollow, Z, is not in reality entirely formed by the rock, but that one of its sides,
that of the end, parallel to the partition of rock, consists of a vertical slab about 2 Ject 3 inches
in height.

' This slab covers the entrance of a long passage apparently cut in the rock ; it seems to
be placed against a little rebate, also well cut and jutting out behind it. I was able to
introduce between the interstices of the slab and the rock in which it rests a long stick,
which penetrated to more than 6 feet 6 inches ; after that I could get no farther, and I
thought I was stopped by earth and rubbish. I repeated my experiment several times, and
touched with the stick the side walls and roof of this kind of corridor. M. Lecomte relieved
me in this fatiguing work, and it is thus that we were able to get the elements of the figures
marked F. After a good many failures I managed to light up the passage by arming the
extremity of my stick with a bit of lighted candle, and so verify by sight what I had
discovered by touch.

' A single glance at the drawings will show all those who are at all conversant with the
([ucstion the considerable value of this fact, which, I think, I was the first to discover, and
by which the field of a discussion already large is remarkably enlarged. I need hardly
speak of the ardent curiosity which impelled me to find out, if possible, whither the passage
blocked by this mysterious slab leads. There is the chance of finding one's self in some
new sepulchral chamber totally unknown before ; perhaps inviolate, perhaps pillaged, but so
as to leave behind some relics precious to an archceologist — funerary objects, worthless in

JERUSALEM.

325

themselves, but furnishing valuable evidence of synchronisms ; ossuaries, fragments of
ossuaries, with Hebrew inscriptions such as I found in other places round Jerusalem. Cannot
we picture to ourselves the conclusions which might be drawn, on the points at issue, from
an epigraphic document of this kind ? I indulged in all these dreams of an antiquary, and
I may go on indulging in them, because the authorisation to remove the slab could not be
procured. The possession of this sanctuary is, like so many others, the object of dispute
among the various clergies, so that one does not know where to apply. Besides, at the
moment I was in a very delicate situation towards the administrative and religious authorities
of Jerusalem, in consequence of the quarrel about the " Moabite " potteries and the Gezer
case. I had raised up against myself so many animosities that even my personal credit was
beginning to suffer. Everybody knows, besides, what grave political complications may be
caused in that singular city of Jerusalem by the least attempt to touch, not only a stone, but
even a rag, or a nail, in these disputed sacred places.

'Is it possible, from what we already know, to form any idea of what this unknown passage
may be .''

'The first idea which presents itself is that, as in many other sepulchral chambers, a
corridor gives access to a second chamber situated at a lower level. But, on reflection,
that seems difficult to suppose. The dimensions of this corridor, although narrow, are

indeed broad enough to admit of passage, and the different cemeteries of Jerusalem furnish
us examples of corridors as narrow and as low ; but the dimensions of the mouth of the
passage, between the edge of the flooring and the partition, are certainly too small. A living
man might with difficulty thrust himself through this kind of cleft ; but it appears to me
almost impossible to force a body through. The rigidity of death would prevent the bending
of the limbs necessary to get through this cleft into the passage itself.

' The same objection may be raised against those who may be tempted to consider
this space as belonging simply to a supplementary loculus, the slab closing the original
opening, and the loculus coming to an end in the rock close to the point A, where I ascer-
tained the presence of the debris. Passage or loculus, this hole offers equal difficulties to
the introduction of a corpse. Besides, in the latter assumption, we are open to new con-
siderations.

' I. The mouth, nearly impracticable, of this opening, would be in advance, in the middle
of the sepulchral chamber ; we should expect it to be, as usual in such cases, below the
locicli in the left wall, and in the vertical level of this wall.

' 2. The height of this loculus, about 2 feet 7 inches, would be greater than that of the
loculi (L K J) of the same sepulchre.

' 3. The length of this pretended loculus, measured from the partition which separates
(} and Z to the point A reached by my rod, is 9 feet i inch ; that is, it would exceed be
2 feet 7 inches the regular length of the loculi. If we only measured from the slab D — i.e.,
from the rebate, we should obtain the normal length of 6 feet 6 inches ; but what are we to

326

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

make, in that case, of tlie trench Z, which would then be situated in front of the loadus, and
would he a useless and unintelligible prolongation?

' 4. The accumulation of rubbish in A, at the end of the passage, seems to show that
there is a large space beyond from which the rubbish comes ; the angle of this accumula-
tion A leads us to believe that the debris has fallen in a direction from A to D, and not
from D to A, in which case the angle would be -, just the reverse. Now, the end of

ggg JiofkKUialwn

the IuchIhs being exactly marked by this point A, whence come the debris which we find
where wc looked for rock ?

'This place, therefore, is not a blind passage.

'The right wall (R O) is not the original wall, although it is cut in the rock. It would
form, with the rocky wall at the end (in which arc the locitli K J), nearly a right, and
not, as in fact it does form, an acute angle. It is probable that it lay originally along the
line R T, and that it was afterwards cut again to enlarge the chamber, and especially to form
a passage between the wall on the left and the point O. Naturally the loculi I H E have
been shortened by the operation, so that we can now predicate of them that when it is possible
to explore them, they will not be found of the normal length of 6 feet 6 inches.

JERUSALEM. 3^7

'The original /['//// di depart of this wall thus altered is perhaps marked in the rock by a
small notch at the point R, although this lies a little behind the marks at S S, the mouths of
the lociili K J.

' We may observe besides, that in adopting this, so to speak, forced restoration of the
wall on the right, we note that one of the walls of the lociili N and E (in O) is manifestly
perpendicular to this imaginary line. If we suppose that the side walls of the three other
loculi have been slightly altered or re-cut transversely to a depth at which they were originally
irregular, we can establish between tlie wall on the right and the loculi which were pierced
there, the perpendicularity which is de rigueur, and which the present state of the place is far
from showing.

' The loculus J of the wall at the end, and the loculus I on the right wall, con-
sidered by themselves, arc very nearly at right angles at R, as is the custom in the tombs of
Palestine ; but the irregularity commences at the second side wall of the loculus I, which is
not parallel to the first.

'Taking all these observations into consideration, we had better suppose the corridor
to be nothing else than a loculus belonging to a neighbouring chamber, and that the end
of it was perforated and prolonged at the time when the trenches G and Z were cut.
It is an accident which not infrequently happens in the tombs of Palestine : often two
sepulchral caves are so close, that the kokhn of the one penetrate to the interior of the other.
This penetration may be accidental, the result of inaccurate measurements, or ignorance of
the existence of a neighbouring chamber, or intentional, to establish a communication between
the two caves and make them one and the same tomb. Here the communication would seem
to have been due to accident, otherwise they would have had to make access to the "corridor"
easier and less painful. Nevertheless, I cannot be certain on this last point ; it is most prudent
to wait for a complete exploration.

' However that may be, loculus or corridor, it is more than probable that this passage,
unknown up to the present day, leads to a second sepulchral chamber situated on a slightly
lower level than that of the first, and completely covered over with the building of the
church.

The following are Sir C. Wilson's notes on M. Clermont Ganneau's
paper as to this tomb :

' In an extremely interesting paper in the last " Quarterly Statement," M. Ganneau has
drawn attention to the tomb-chamber in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, known as
that of "Joseph and Nicodemus," and has given his reasons for believing that there is a
second and somewhat similar tomb-chamber at a lower level. There is nothing improbable
in this suggestion, though I think it rather hazardous, as the facts upon which M. Ganneau
bases his argument might be explained in another way. My object, however, is not to criticise
M. Ganneau's paper, but to give a few additional details which came under my own observa-
tion whilst employed upon the Ordnance Survey of Jerusalem in 1864-65.

'The first is that, contrary to the usual custom at Jerusalem, the tomb chamber is
excavated in the hard {missa) and not in the soft {inalaki) strata of limestone ; the second is that
the beds or floors of the koktni slope downward from the mouth, the general rule being to
cut them horizontal. M. Ganneau mentions a door, E on the right of the chamber, of
which he does not appear to have been able to procure the key. I was more fortunate, and the
following note on the chamber to which the door gives access may be of interest to the

328

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

subscribers of the Fund. The cli.-imber, as will be seen from the plan, is irregular in
shape ; the wall on the right-hand side on entering is masonry ; the remaining sides, as well
as the roof, are rock. It is evident that the chamber was formed, probably when the church
was built, by cutting away a portion of the original tomb-chamber in such a manner as to
leave a sort of cave, and the floor was lowered at the same time for a certain purpose

itfiwm I ' .,■.,,„ »^^ ! i^.v; . ^»jap -

explained below. I think M. Ganneau is quite right in supposing that the door, E, was
originally a kok, though its shape is now rectangular ; this kok has entirely disappeared, and
so has that marked H, with the exception of the mouth and a small portion of the sides. The
third kok, I, is of special interest ; the right side and a portion of the roof have been cut
away, but the bed has been left untouched, and the remaining portion of the roof forms a

F/onr rtfJiofii nrfir

¥.

^^jaiorA Eltvaticn

sort of rock-canopy over it. The reason for lowering the floor {gf) is now apparent ; it was to
convert the bed of the kok (d e) into a raised bench or altar, and I believe on certain occasions
it is still used as an altar by the Syrian community to whom the chamber belongs. The
illustration shows also in elevation the openings of the kokhn H, I, and of the door E, in the
thin wall of rock which separates the chamber from the original tomb-chamber of " Joseph

JERUSALEM.

329

and Nicodemus." In my notes to the Ordnance Survey of Jerusalem, I alluded to the light
which the kok I might possibly throw on the primitive form of the Holy Sepulchre. My
impression is that if the Holy Sepulchre were originally a kok — and I see no reason why it
should not have been — the mode of proceeding was somewhat similar to that described
above ; that is to say, the floor of the original tomb-chamber was lowered, the side of the kok
was cut away, and a canopy of rock left over its bed. As time went on and changes were
made, the kok would probably be entirely isolated, the canopy of rock disappear, and the
tomb assume its present form. I have endeavoured to show this in the sketch. Felix
Fabri, 1480 a.d., mentions that pilgrims were in the habit of knocking off little pieces of the
rock to carry away as relics, and it is possible that this may partially account for the dis-
appearance of the roof of the kok (<'/). Some of the early pilgrims mention a cave ; this may

JlocS Secirim

iro^ RcckElei'attcr7L

be explained by reference to the little Syrian chamber in which a roof of rock has been left,
and the Holy Sepulchre may have undergone similar treatment.

' M. Ganneau, in his opening paragraphs, alludes to the doubt which at one time existed
as to the nature of the so-called tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus ; I cannot understand how
any one who had ever seen the rock-hewn tombs near Jerusalem could have any doubts on
the subject. The chamber in which they are situated is unmistakably a Jewish tomb-
chamber, and the tombs themselves are as clearly Jewish kokhii. Whether this tomb-
chamber was inside or outside the second wall is quite another question ; I think myself it
was inside, but the question is one which would require more space for argument than can be
given at present. . . .

' There is no rock visible in the chapel of the Holy Sepulchre at the present day ; it is
entirely concealed by the marble casing.'

The following note was also supplied by Captain Conder :

' It has long been pointed out that the stone closing the door of our Lord's tomb was not
a mere shapeless mass of rock, but a carefully constructed apparatus peculiar to Jewish,
tombs. There are one or two points with regard to the rolling stone which I have not,
however, seen noticed in any account of such tombs.

' The rolling stone is not a very common method of securing the entrances of the rock-
cut sepulchres, and it is natural to suppose, from the great advance in mechanical simplicity,

330 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

that it is a late contrivance. The large majority of the rock-cut sepulchres, some 500 of
which hive been examined in the course of the Survey, are not fitted with the groove
necessary for the use of the stone. They arc closed in some instances by a sort of portcullis
of stone, but most frequently by a stone door on pivots fitting into holes bored above and
below the entrance, and closed by a lock. The lock was probably of metal, since in every
instance yet examined it has disai)pcarcd. The rolling stone generally measures about 3 feet
diameter, and is i foot thick in some instances, resembling a cheese set on end. It rolls right
or left of the doorway, which is some 2 feet wide, and it is kept up by a ledge of rock having
a groove behind it, into which the stone is pushed back to open the tomb. The bottom of
this groove is slightly sloping in some cases, so that the stone would roll down to close the
door by its own weight. The weight, taking the specific gravity of the rock at 27, would be
about six cwt. Thus not only is it entirely impossible to open the tomb from within, but
it is difticult to do so from without ; and a shock of earthtjuake would not, as has been lately
suggested, cause the stone to roll bark up hill, nor would it rem.iin in that position unless
scotched beneath.

'The principal point to be noticed is that this kind of door seems to belong to the later
Jewish tombs. This accords exactly with its use in the new tomb of Joseph of Arimatheea.
The only dated example known is that of the tomb of Helena, Queen of Adiabene, mother
of Izates, who was buried in Jerusalem in the first century (Ant. xx. 4, 3). In addition to
this, it may be remarked that in the country north of Cresarea, where there are many examples
of this kind of door, the tombs are of the loculus description, and not kok'im tombs. The
same remark applies to the instance of a tomb near Endor, and in other cases the tombs
contain both hKiili and kok'im ; but we have collected no instance of a tomb with kok'uii only
closed by a rolling scone. In a former paper I have shown reasons for supposing the kok'im
tombs to be the older form used by the Jews, the loculi to be the later form, also used by
them. (See 'Quarterly Statement,' January, 1S76, p. 19.) In the Mishna(Baba Bathra, vi. S)
a description of a tomb is given having kok'im, but no account of a rolling door is added, and
the form of antechamber prescribed precludes the possibility of such a method of closing the
entrance, but the description applies exactly to the majority of the more ancient Jewish
sepulchres.

'The conclusion which may be drawn from the above notes seems to be that the Holy
Sepulchre was in all probability a loculus tomb.

' This deduction is in accordance with the description in the fourth Gospel (xx. 12)—' two
angels in white sitting, the one at the head and the other at the feet where the body of Jesus
had lain ' — a disposition which is evidently impossible in the case of a tomb with a koka,
which is, as has often been explained, a sort of pigeon-hole running in from the wall of the
chamber some 5 to 7 feet in length, and 2 feet six inches to 2 feet broad, the feet of the
corpse being at the nearer end, the head at the further. The koka was closed by a slab
2 feet broad, 2 to 3 feet high. The loculus tomb has a sort of sarcophagus under an arched
roof, the body lying i)ara!lel to the wall of the chamber.

' An argument for the identity of the present site has been drawn by De \'ogiie and by M.
(lanneau from the existence of an ancient kok tomb in the church. This position has been
considerably strengthened by the (juotation of the Mishna (Halia Rathrn, ii. 9), which runs
as follows :

'"Corpses and sepulchres and tanneries are separated from the city fifty cubits."

'Still there is evidence from the same sources to show that sepulchres dating from an early

JERUSALEM. 33 1

period existed within the walls of Jerusalem, and I may perhaps be allowed to collect these
passages for the use of those interested in the argument.

' Mishna Parah iii. 2: "The buildings (Hazeroth) of Jerusalem were founded on the
rock, with caves beneath them, because of the Kabr Hat 'I'ahtum" (or "Sepulchre of the
Abyss ").

' The passage continues to explain that for the same reason the children sent to fetch water
for the Red Heifer Sacrifice from Siloam were mounted on bulls, in order to have their feet
off the ground, so as to escape pollution from the same source.

' The explanation of the term " Sepulchre of the Abyss " is given by Maimonides,
commenting on another passage (Nezir ix. 2), where he speaks of it as a hidden tomb,
the depth of which was not known to any man. Thus it would appear from the Mishna
that the Jews were aware of the existence of ancient tombs in and beneath the surface of
the city.

'The Tosiphtah gives us further inlbrmation. It is a work of authority almost equal to
that of the Mishnah, being attributed to Rabbi Hijah, about 120 .\.d. Commenting on the
same tract (Tosiphtah Baba Bathra, ch. i.), it states that all the sepulchres within Jerusalem
were transferred outside the walls except those of the family of David and of the prophetess
Huldah.

'Another passage of the Tosiphtah is given by Neubauer (Edouyoth, ch. ii.) : " Bones had
once been found in a house of wood. The Rabbis wished therefore to declare the capital
unclean, but Rabbi Jehoshua objected, saying, ' It would be shameful if we declare our
houses unclean.' " '

The Stone of BETtiriiAGE.

' I have received from the Frere Lievin certain documents and drawings relating to an
important discovery lately made near Jerusalem. They describe a Crusaders' monument,
interesting both as regards the history of Western art in the East, and as illustrating the
topography of Jerusalem. Frere Lievin was fortunate in obtaining the valuable assistance of
Captain Guillemot, to whose pen we owe the drawings here engraved. Farther on will also
be found a notice, drawn up by Captain Guillemot, on the monument, its origin and destina-
tion, in support of which I shall have a few remarks to offer. The drawings are the more
valuable because the monument has greatly suffered since the clearing out. I heard, for
instance, in October, that a part of the inscription painted on the western side fell off shortly
after it was copied.

' The excavations undertaken with a view to clear out the monument met with every kind
of obstacle from the natives, until the intervention of Reouf Pacha, who has rendered a great
service to science in this inatter — one which ought not to be forgotten, and which leads us
to count on him for the future as an enlightened protector and patron of archaeological
research.

' The following is the text of Captain Guillemot's report :

' " On leaving the Convent of Carmelites on the Mount of Olives to go to Bethany, the
path to the east follows the contour of the south side of the mountain. After a gentle
descent of about five hundred metres it turns abruptly to the south, passing over a natural
ridge, which unites the Mount of Olives with that of Bethany.

42—2

33*

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' " When you aic arrived at the middle of the ridge, turn to the cast, the Dead Sea is visible
in the distance ; hehind you, on the west, is the group of sanctuaries, the Ascension, the
I'atcr Nostcr, and the Credo ; on the north, at the left, you arc overlooked by the new con-

Iiyi-vrvr

'ITQC

iSKh^^CAOl/

structions of the Russian Archimandrite ; the road of Bethany, on the right, runs to the
south, and if you advance a few steps you are on the spot where the most ancient traditions
place Bethphage.

' " Some time in the spring of the present year a Fellah of Jebel Tur, digging on this spot
in the hope of finding building stones, struck upon a polished block, upon which, on clearing
away the earth, he found paintings and characters. In the hope of backsheesh he ran to

.Ui

his neighbours the Russians ; these, however, preoccupied with the coming war, told him to
cover all up and leave it for the present.

' " For centuries past the Franciscans have been accustomed to celebrate every year the
Feast of St. Magdalene at Bethany ; on their return they halt at Bethphage in order to recite
the Gospel of Palm Sunday. During the ceremony of this year (July 23, 1877) an assistant
perceived certain letters on the stele, which had been imperfectly covered over, and clearing

JERUSALEM.

Zll>

away a portion of it, found a Latin inscription in Roman characters. Tlie feather in charge
of the sacred places, recognising at once the importance of this discovery, instructed Frbre
IJfevin to commence excavations as soon as ])Ossible, to take notes of and to copy accurately
everything that should be found.

' " Shortly after, Frere Lievin, having with him a small band of workmen, armed with
picka.xe and spade, brought me to the Mount of Olives and asked for my assistance. The
moment our work was commenced the cupidity of the Fellahtn began to raise difficulties.
Every resident of Jebel Tur pretended immediately to be the sole proprietor of this spot,
hitherto neglected ; and, to crown all, the villagers of Bethany declared that the place

belonged to their territory. I had, however, time to make notes of two fragments of inscrip-
tion and a sketch of the north side of the fresco, representing the master of the castle accord-
ing to the two disciples permission to carry away the ass and the foal.

' " Next day, when I came back to compare my finished drawing with the original, and to
study the details, the excavations had been completely filled up and again partly cleared
out. Happily, the part which I then wanted was not hidden.

' " Next day, the same trouble ; there was only the western face which remained partly
uncovered. It was possible, however to draw the figures bearing palms, and hardly visible,
which stand on the right and left of the niche. Two days afterwards the whole was com-
pletely covered over ; not even the top of the stone was visible.

' "These proceedings resulted from disputes between the Fellahin, some of them wanting
the excavations to proceed in the hope of getting backsheesh, and the others filling them up,
as fast as made, out of jealousy.

' ''Things being in this position, Frere Lievin had recourse to the Pacha, who immediately
accorded us his protection. Orders were given by his Excellency to the chiefs of the
villages of Bethany and Jebel Tur ; a soldier was placed on guard over the excavations, and
we were enabled to continue our labours in peace.

' " The fresco, which I had, happily, copied carefully, had been seriously damaged by the
pickaxes and by the continual friction with stones and earth ; several letters of the inscription
had disappeared. I made haste to note all that remained ; it was fortunate that I did so,
because shortly afterwards an unknown hand destroyed in our absence the greater part of
the rest.

' " The stele measures i '30 metres (4 feet 3-18 inches) in its greatest length ; in breadth it

334

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

is ri3 mclrcs (3 Icct 849 inches) at the norlhcrn end, and i 06 metres (or 3 feet 563 inches)
at the southern end. 'I'lie height at the northern end is irregular, and averages one metre
(3 feet 3-37 inches). At the southern end it is o'qo metre (2 feet 114 inches). It is con-

structed of the rock on which it stands, a porous Hmestone, lying in irregular strata, with
alternate soft and hard beds.

' "The monolith has not been separated from the rock of which it forms part, except on
the four faces.

JERUSALEM. 335

' " At first sight the monument would be taken for an altar, or even for a tomb. But there
exist no traces of the steps and other accessories to an altar. As regards the second, there
is no sign of any opening. The white stucco which covers it is still solid in certain places.
The paintings are finely executed and of a striking character. Nevertheless, the inscriptions
leave no doubt as to the origin of this decoration.

' " But is it only a restoration ? At what period was the stone cut ? That is a question
impossible to answer. Those who thus ornamented it must have had no doubt that formerly
the rock stood out above the level of the soil, presenting a sort of rustic seat, and that our
Lord may have sat upon it on a certain memorable day.

' " The Resurrection of Lazarus. — The choice of the south side for this painting, which faces
Bethany, and the subject, that of the permission to take the ass and the foal, makes me think
that the west part, facing Jerusalem, must have represented the triumphant entry of our Lord

into the Holy City. The figures which can still be seen bearing palms, on the two sides of
the niche, are in favour of this hypothesis.

' " This painting is much superior to the others. I believe, however, that it is by the same
hand.

' " On the faqade of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre there is a Resurrection of Lazarus
carved in the prolongation of the lintel. It is in great measure identical with that of Beth-
phage. Did the painter copy the sculptor ? Perhaps while studying the vigorous bas-relief
he may have acquired a more perfect understanding of the line and of light and shade. I
am happy in having been able to copy this composition in time. At present it is greatly
damaged ; wet fingers have been passed over the figures, and have effaced them ; many of
them have quite disappeared.

' " The fresco on the other side ajipears to be the blessing of the restoration of this little
sanctuary. The notch which is observed in the upper part, about the middle, may have been
to hide a defect in the stone.

' " On clearing away the earth from our excavations we came upon a circular construction
of a much more ancient appearance than the decoration of the stele. The disposition and
arrangement of the materials have nothing in common with Crusaders' work. Besides, at

336 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

two metres from the cinimifcrence we found the fragment of a column standing still upright
upon its base. Is this the first and most ancient sanctuary, which those who restored the
monument were unable to repair in its original grandeur ? JMore complete examination of
the place is required to prove the point.

' " In any case, we ascertained that the stUe itself was in the centre of the circular
space.

' "Near the monument lie a number of cisterns, some in ruins, some covered over and
still in use. Their depth and size, and the fact that they are gathered together over a narrow-
space, their acknowledged antiquity, all go to prove that there once existed an imjjortant
village in this place. Two of the reservoirs are in ruins ; two others serve as watering-places
for cattle. A small rocky ravine, which used to feed these cisterns, separates them towards
the west from a mamclon which may very well be the site of Bethphage. I have seen on the
ground broken i)illars, fragments of marble pavement, an enormous quantity of broken
Jewish pottery, and mosaic cubes of all colours, all of wliidi have been brought to light by
the cultivation of the soil.

' " I one day met the proprietor on the spot at the moment when he was taking out of
the ground a stone evidently once part of an aqueduct, and evidently of great age. I asked
him if he found many things like it. He replied, ' You see all this place ; I cannot dig any-
where without finding walls.' Then he added, ' There was formerly a city on this spot.'
That, indeed, is the opinion of the whole country.

' " It does not seem to me possible that Bethjjhage could have been placed on the side
of a road which, shut in to right and left by two hills, is a mere gulf for the west wind, so
terrible in this country. The old cities in the vicinity are all built on slopes which incline to
the south-east Now this mamelon near the cisterns has a similar inclination.

' " Again let us turn to the sacred narrative. The Saviour came from Jericho towards
Jerusalem ; he had passed Bethany, and passed over the ground broken by the hills which
separate the valleys of Bethany and licthphage. ' Go,' He said to His disciples, ' to the
village over against you' (Matt. .\xi. 2). Now the road has not been changed, since it could
have passed no other way than over the narrow ridge to join the Mount of Olives. If, then,
the village was on the road, why send the disciples, since the Lord would pass it Himself?
And if we look at the plan, we may be sure that the disciples, to make a short cut, descended
the valley to climb the mamelon of Bethphage, w^hile our Lord, with the rest of His disciples,
continued to follow the road in the direction of the Mount of Olives, and there waited the
return of the disciples.

' " And to the faithful this stone would be that on which Jesus rested by the wayside and
where He mounted the ass."

' To this report M. Clermont Ganneau appends several pages of valuable comment. He
points out that the niche shown in the drawing may, as Captain Guillemot suggests, have
been carved on the stone originally, and in order to hide some defect ; or it may have been
cut by a Fellah of more modern days to receive a beam for some construction of his own.
The inscription he ascribes, as beyond doubt, to the twelfth century. On one of the faces
occurs the name of Bernard Witard. There appears in the Cartulary of the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre the name of Johannes (iuitard ( ^= Witard). Probably Bernard belonged to
this family, and defrayed the expenses of the monument.

' As regards the constructions found round the stele, M. Ganneau is of opinion, in which
Lieutenant Kitchener's observations support him, that the wall was not actually circular, but

JERUSALEM.

337

apsidal, and part of a church, and he calls attention to the importance of proving that the
church was built before the stone was painted. His own discovery of the taille mediavale
(' Quarterly Statement,' April, 1874) may be applied here.

' As regards Captain Guillemot's suggestion that the stone may have been regarded as

that on which our Lord rested, M. Ganneau brings direct proof that such was the case. He
quotes Theodoricus de Locis Sanctis (a.d. 1072) : " Milliario ab Hierosolymis Bethania, ubl
domus Simonis leprosi, Lazari et ejus sororum Maris et Marthre erat, distat, ubi Dominus

338

'HIE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

sxpc hospitari solcbat. Sita est autcm Bethania jiixta vallum Olivcti, montem a parte orientali
tcrminantcin. A Bcthania ergo in die i)aliiiaruni dilectissimus dominus noster Jesus Christus
pr.xcedens et Bethphage veniens, qui locus inter Bethaniani et montem Oliveti medius est,
ubi etiam honesta capella in ipsius honore est fabricata binos ad adducendum asinam et
pullum niisit discipulos, et slans super lai)idem grandem qui in ista capella manifeste videtur,
cl asino insidens per montem Oliveti Hierosolymam properavit cui turba multa in descensu
montis ipsius obviam processit." (Tobler's edit., ]). 52.)

' So that in the second half of the twelfth century they showed between the Mount of
Olives and Bethany the site of Bethphage and the place where Jesus had sent two of His

Fttm' of rcccjtt- dLscortry
iloimt cf Olircj

disciples to seek the ass and the colt. There they had raised a " lair chapel " — Iwncsta capella
— and in this chapel was visible the stone on which our Lord stood before mounting the ass.

'" This rock," says M. Ganneau, "can be no other than this monolith, from which the
surrounding rock has been carefully cut away, lovingly covered on all sides by delicate paint-
ings, which remind one of illuminations in a precious missal rather than an ordinary fresco
drawn to hide the naked stone. . . . ^\'e may remember that the Crusaders had an especial
predilection for fresco painting ; they covered the walls of all the churches on the sacred sites
with frescoes. Many pilgrims, especially John of W'urzburg, have preserved the description
of these paintings, the subjects of which, all borrowed from the Old and the New Testament,
were in accordance with the traditions of each sanctuary. These paintings were accompanied
by long inscriptions, generally in rhymed Latin, according to the fashion of the time. It is
a pity that John of Wurzburg did not visit the place and copy the inscriptions. He mentions,
however, the church of Bethphage. Several other writers of the twelfth century speak of
Bethphage and its church. Soewulf, however (a.d. 1102), speaks as if a church had not yet
been erected : " Bethphage, ubi Dominus prsemisit discipulos ad civitatem est in monte
Oliveti, sed fere nusquam apparet."

JERUSALEM. 339

' Bernard (a.d. 865) says : " In descensu etiamde monte Oliveti ad occidentalem plagam
ostenditur niarmor, de quo descendit dominus super pullum asina;."

'The "western" slope of Olivet will not fit in with our stch\ but the fact remains that in
the ninth century such a stone was shown.

' M. Ganneau goes on to show that the traditional site of Bethphage was maintained up
to the seventeenth century. He concludes his paper ("Revue Archreologique," Dec, 1877)
as follows : " We know, therefore, beyond any doubt, the point where the Crusaders localised
the episode to which the name of Bethphage is attached. The ruins noticed by M. Guillemot
not far from the painted stone belong to the Bethphage so-called by the Crusaders. Is this
mediaeval Bethphage identical with that of the Gospel ? This is a question quite distinct
from the first. We know how different are opinions on the site of Bethphage. According
to some who rely on the Greek text of Luke xix. 29, it is placed to the east or the south-east
of Bethany ; others consider it as identical with the modern village of Silwan ; others, again,
relying on the authority of the Talmud, make Bethphage a suburb of Jerusalem. For my
own part, I confess that I ask myself whether Bethphage is not simply the village of the
Mount of Olives called Kefr et Tur. I believe this village ancient on account of its name of
Kefr, on account of its situation, and on account of the ancient remains that one sees there.
Kefr et Tur means the Village of the Mount of Olives ; it may formerly have had a designa-
tion more personal, which is lost. Now the (}ospel tells us of an ancient locality whose name
has disappeared ; it is Bethphage, the Village of the Mount of Olives.

' This hypothesis will enable us to explain and understand certain Talmudic passages,
which are all clear if one admits that Bethphage marked on the east the boundary of the
Sabbatic zone which on every side surrounded the city. The Mount of Olives (by which we
may now understand a particular point of this mount) was exactly a Sabbath-day's journey
from Jerusalem. And what point could this be except the village of the mountain which
occupied its principal summit and now bears its name ?"

'Lieutenant Kitchener's Report.

' The road from the Mount of Olives to Bethany crosses a narrow ridge of land which
joins the Mount of Olives to the hill above Bethany. On this narrow strip ancient tradition
placed the site Bethphage, mentioned (Matt. xxi. i ; Mark xi. i : and Luke xix. 29) as the
place where our Lord mounted the ass for his triumphal entry into Jerusalem. The remains
of an ancient chapel have been uncovered, dating probably from the twelfth or thirteenth
century.

' In the chapel there is an almost square block of masonry or rock covered with paintings;
it measures 4 feet 3 inches by 3 feet 6 inches by 3 feet 10 inches high, and its position in the
chapel is curious — being on the north side, probably between two columns of the nave, as
seen on the accompanying plan.

'This square block is supposed to be either an altar, a shrine, or a portion of the rock cut
out and ornamented, being the exact place where our Lord mounted the ass.

' The paintings, of which I send you pen-and-ink sketches, are well done, though now
much disfigured. On the south side is the Raising of Lazarus ; on the north are the
Disciples Fetching the Ass ; on the east there are a number of persons standing in a row,
but it is too much disfigured to be recognisable ; on the west there is a niche covered by an

43—2

340 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

arch, which was probably supported by two small columns ; below the niche is a i)ortion of
an inscription still remaining ; several lines have been destroyed.

' On the top there was also some design and the traces of an inscription. The walls of
the small chamber to the south were also painted with a design of squares containing circles,
and the walls of the church were painted in a common pattern.

' M. Le Capitaine Guillemot was the first to visit these remains, and he has made
elaborate drawings and copies of the paintings and inscriptions when ever)thing was almost
perfect. These he is about to publish. He was able to read on different parts of the
inscription, " Hie est," " Bethphagus," and " Hierusalem." '

The Veil of the Temple.

' In pursuit of the hitherto neglected question of the connection of the Phoenicians with the
reloi)onnese, I have been led to ascertain the existence in the province of Elis of certain
facts, customs, and observances which offer a remarkable analogy with wliat we know of the
Phoenicians, and, particularly, of the Hebrews. I confine myself in this place to a succinct
enumeration of the principal points, full details of which will appear in my forthcoming work,
called " Le Dieu Satrape et les T'hcniciens dans le Peloponnese."

' 1. The Eleans, alone in Greece, cultivated the hyssus, a textile plant the Oriental origin
of which is incontestable. Pausanias tell us that the Elean byssus was quite equal in fineness
to the byssus of the " Hebrews."

' 2. The Eleans were forbidden, for religious reasons, to breed mules ; the same
interdiction existed for the Jews, as we know. It was based on a passage of Leviticus
(.\ix. 19).

' 3. In Elis, near Lepreos, a city whose name is traditionally explained as derived from
the leprosy which afflicted its earliest itihalntauts, flowed a river anciently called 'lajoaw; — the
same as Jordan.

' But it is especially at Olympia, the famous theatre of the Olympic games which have
given Elis so considerable a place in Greece, that we are presented with points which strike
us at once as resembling observances of Semitic religion.

' 4. Anointings with oil were practised on the celebrated statue of Olympian Zeus (to
preserve the ivory, says Pausanias).

'5. In the temple of Olympian Zeus were certain I3u,u,cil, held in extreme veneration,
formed by the accumulation of the ashes of victims, and exactly similar to the deposits of
ashes coming from the altar of Jehovah — deposits regarded as sacred (Leviticus i. 16, iv. 12 ;
I Kings xiii. 3 ; 2 Mace. xiii. 8).

' 6. The women of Elis were absolutely forbidden to penetrate into the sanctuaries of
Olympia : they were not to pass beyond a certain limit. This is parallel with the Court of
Women. The women of Elis were also forbidden to be present at the Olympic games and
to cross the waters of the Alpheus at certain periods, the whole under pain of death. This
idea of woman's constitutional impurity, this implacable penalty which sanctioned it, are
traits essentially Semitic.

' 7. The women of Elis, thus kept apart, had ceremonies of their own, on the other hand,
which seem based on those of the Phoenicians, those mourners for Adonis and for the solar
Tammuz whom Ezekiel (viii. 14) shows us in the very Temple of Jehovah. " At a certain
season,'' says Pausanias, " at the moment of the setting sun, the women of Elis went to weep

JERUSALEM. 34i

round the empty sepulchre of him whom they called Achilles " — a fabulous Achilles, an
Achilles sprung from some Oriental kmviasiLoc, rather than from Homeric tradition.

' 8. At Olympia, near the Temple of Hera, sixteen women were employed in weaving the
peplos of the goddess, just as the women wove the sacred tents for Asherah in the Temple of
Jehovah (2 Kings xxiii. 7 ; Ezek. xvi. 16).

' 9. At Olympia also was adored the singular Zsi: Ato/xl/zoc, whose literal prototype is found
in Baalzebub, or BaaX /iuTa of Ekron (2 Kings i, 2, 3, 16).

' 10. Finally, there was in the sanctuary of Olympia a great woollen veil, of Assyrian
workmanship, dyed with the Phoenician purple, given by Antiochus, and executed, perliaps,
on the same plan as that great veil of the Temple, of Babylonian texture, the marvels of which
have been described by Josephus.

' I even venture to ask whether this veil of the Olympian Temple might not have been
the very veil of the Temple of Jerusalem carried off by Antiochus lY., the grand pillager of
temples.

' This conjecture may appear rash at first sight. There are, however, certain facts which
seem to me to lend to it a high degree of probability.

'The first book of Maccabees (i. 23, 24) informs us that Antiochus took away from the
Holy City " the golden altar, and the candlestick of light, and all the vessels thereof, and the
table of the shewbread . . . and the veil {ro xaTaTriras/Ma) . . ." This is confirmed by
Josephus, according to whom Antiochus " did not spare even the veils made of fine linen and
scarlet" ("Antiq. Jud.," xii. 5, 2).

' Pausanias said that Antiochus dedicated {a./ei)rixsv) his oriental veil in the Temple of
Olympia.

' It was the custom to adorn temples with similar trophies.

' But there is more.

' Pausanias minutely explains that the ira^avi-aaij.u, or curtain of the sanctuary of Olympia,
in place of rising up to the roof as, for instance, that of the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus,
was dropped to the ground from above by means of ropes. He might have spared himself a
good deal of trouble by stating at once that it was not a na^a.'Kirasij.a, but a y.aTa'xiTa.aiJ.a
(down-curtain), i.e., he might have used the word always employed by Josephus and in the
texts of the Maccabees to designate the Jewish veil. St. Matthew also says that the veil
(nuraTirag^u.u) was rent, amdsv tdi; xdriii.

' Again, to whom did Antiochus dedicate the Temple of Jerusalem — plundered and
defiled by him? To Olympian Zeus {2 Mace. vi. 2). AVe need not be astonished, therefore,
if he hung up the veil of the Jewish Temple in that of the Olympian Zeus. Are not always
the spoils of the conquered deities consecrated to the victorious deities ? (Cf the sacred
utensils of Jehovah consecrated to Chemosh by Mesha, King of Moab.)

' If the veil of the Olympian and that of the Jewish Temple are identical instead of being
similar, the argument which I thought to draw from an analogy to establish an affinity must
be set aside. On the other hand, we obtain a result important in quite another way. There
are not two objects to be compared, but two deities placed side by side.

' I think the foregoing reflections are of a kind to draw special attention to the excava-
tions now being conducted at Olympia. Should, for instance, any discovery be made bearing
upon Syrian rites, religions, and antiquities, I for one should not be surprised.'

PART II.

NOMENCLATURE ROUND JERUSALEM.

I . Wady Unim cl 'Anab (or Wady cs Sam.'ir).
;. ^Vady cl I lamarah.

3. 'Ain cl ^^^do\verall.

4. Ri'is cs Sillim.

5. Riis cl NLndbasch.

6. Ard cs Saniar.

7. R.is cl Mcsharif (Scopus).

8. Bir cl Mcsharif.
g. Ras .'\bu Halawi.

10. Khallet cl 'Ajiiz.

1 1. 'Ain cs Suwan.

1 2. Ras Umm et Tal'a.

13. 'Akabet es Suwan.

14. Bir el Ka'ah.

15. Kijsr el Kiitb.

16. Kiisr esh Shehabi.

17. Kusr el Khatib.

18. Kiisr el Ka'ah.

19. Kiisr el Mufti.

zo. Bir eth Thogherah.

21. Bir Zeitunat el Haweileh.

22. Bir er Rasasyeh.

23. Sheikh Jernih.

24. 'Akabet Sheikh Jerrah.

25. Bir el Yehudiych (and Tomb of Simon

the Just).

26. Bir Sheikh Jerrah (in Court of 23).

27. Tombs of the Judges (or Sanhedrin).

28. Kabur es Salatan (Helena's Tomb).

29. Rujni el Kehakir.

30. Mugharet el 'Anab.

31. Sheikh Kamir.

32. El Muskobiyeh (Russian buildings).

33. St. Stephen's (Ruins).

34. El Heidhemiyeh (Place of Execution).

35. Kurm csh Sheikh.

36. Bir el Hinvarah.

37. Bir cl Kos.

38. Birket ^L^milla.

39. Birket es Sultan.

40. Deir es Salib (Convent of the Cross).

41. Khallet et Tarhah.

42. Khiirbet el Bedr.

43. Khurbet es Salah.

44. Khallet cl Kusab.

45. Bir Abu Shalbek.

46. Kurm Ahmed.

47. Ras en Nadr.

48. Kusr el Kurmeh.

49. AVady Umm Ahmed.

50. Kusr Ishenar (Schneller's Orphanage).

51. Sheikh Bedr.

52. Khurbet cl Khamis.

53. \Vady el Wely.

54. Khtirbet el KhazGk.

55. El Hawich.

56. Jebel Deir Abu Tor (Mount of Evil

Counsel).

57. Sheikh Ahmed et Toreh (at 56).

58. Bir Eyiib.

59. Wady Kadiim.

60. Bir el Khulil.

61. Wady Deir es Sonneik.

62. Batn el Howa.

63. Sheikh Selman el Farsi.

64. Kefr et Tor (Village, and Church of

Ascension).

65. Russian House on Olivet.

66. Pater Noster Chapel.

67. New Convent of the Latins.

68. Tombs of the Prophets.

69. Bethphage Chapel.

70. Jebel et Tor (Mount of Olives).

71. El K'adi (where Christ sat).

72. Riis Mesa'adet Sidna 'Aisa.

73. Ahbal el Kibrit.

74. Kubr Sitti Miriam (Virgin's Tomb).

75. El Khelweh (the Hermitage).

76. Gethsemane.

77. Wady es Sahel.

78. Sihvan (the village of Siloam).

79. 'Ain Umm ed Deraj (En Rogel and

Gihon).

80. Tantiir Fer'on (Absolom's Pillar)

81. 'Ain Sihvan (Pool of Siloam).

82. Neby Daiid (the Ccenaculum).
S3. Wady en Nar (Kedron).

84. Wady et Rababeh (Hinnom).

85. Hiimmam Tubariya (Protestant

Cemetery).

86. Wady Tubl (by 61).

87. Khurbet Abu W'air.

88. Sheikh el Mensi.

89. Almshouses for Jews.

90. Zahweileh (Zoheleth at 78).

91. Rujiim el Behimeh (near north-east).

92. 'Akabet el Ghuzlan (near last).

93. Kubbet el 'Abd (by 38).

94. Birket es Sitti Miriam.

95. 'Arak et Tireh.

96. Hakk ed Dumm (south of 84) Aceldama.

nLtinl.yrool<?Tjcty SSujiIiui

Jerusalem and its Environs
IN 1882.
Slio>mig tlie Ai-aLic Noiiieuclature and New Bii'ildui^s

Scale 2 Iuc]ies=lMile.

PART II.

THE ENVIRONS OF JERUSALEM.

The following descriptions refer to the exploration of places outside the
walls of modern Jerusalem which have been examined and planned down
to the year 1882.

The complete Arabic nomenclature of this area, which is comprised
within the limits of the Ordnance Survey Plan of the environs of
Jerusalem (scale toouu), will be found in the volume of the name lists
(pp. 313 — 320). The nomenclature outside the city was collected by
Captain Conder's Survey Party in the summer of 1S74. Those names
which have no archa;ologIcal value are omitted in the present paper.

'AiN SiLWAN.

The modern Arabic name of the Pool of Siloam, which is, however,
not properly speaking a spring, but a tank fed by the great aqueduct
from the Virgin's Fountain ('Ain Umm ed Deraj), and having an
intermittent supply consequent on the intermittent How of that spring.
Josephus (5 Wars iv. i) also calls Siloam a fountain, but in the Bible
it is called a pool (Neh. iil. 15). The present pool consists of modern
masonry, measuring 55 feet north and south, by 18 feet east and
west, and having Its bottom at a level 2,086 feet above the Mediter-
ranean. The average depth is 20 feet, and on the north an archway
5 feet wide appears, leading to a small vault 12 feet long, In which is
a descent from the level of the top of the pool to the level of the channel

346 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

supplyini,^ il. This vault is modern, and the old nioulh of the rock-cut
channel has been stopped up on the east side of the present pool, the
water now beinij admitted further west under the vault. The recent
explorations of Dr. Guthe prove that the Pool of Siloam was originally
much larger and cut in rock. On the east it probably extended to the
present rocky scarp, in which a channel is now cut communicating with
the old pool, formed by a strong masonry dam below the Pool of Siloam,
at the mouth of the Tyropa^on, where it opens into the Kedron valley.
The date of the masonry of this dam, which is about a hundred yards
south-east of the Pool of Siloam, is unknown ; but it is extremely massive,
and probably of great antiquity. The present Pool of Siloam is, in fact,
a small area kept open by the modern retaining walls in the middle of
the great ancient rock-cut pool, which has been filled up with rubbish.
The extent of the original pool cannot be ascertained without further
e.Kcavation. Doctor Guthe's explorations appear, however, to indicate an
original width for the pool of about 95 feet east and west.

The tunnel which connects the Pool of Siloam with the Virgin's
Fount has been passed through by Dr. Robinson and Colonels Wilson
and Warren, and recently revisited (in 18S1) by Captain Conder and
Lieutenant Mantell. It was in this tunnel that an ancient Hebrew
inscription was accidentally discovered in 1880, by some Jewish boys
who were attempting to go through the tunnel. The inscription is
incised on a rock tablet about 5 yards from the mouth of the channel.
The tablet is about 27 inches square, and the inscription, in six lines,
occupies the lower portion, the top of the tablet being only about a yard
above the bottom of the channel, which is here some 2 feet wide and
I I feet high. The tablet is on the right hand of an explorer entering the
tunnel from the Siloam end.

The new inscription was reported by 1 lerr K. Schick, and visited early
in 188 1 by Professor A. H. Sayce, who translated the text. The clear-
ness of the inscription was much improved by Doctor Guthe, who, in the
same year, washed the tablet with a weak acid solution, dissolving the
deposit of lime which had formed in the incised characters, but without
injuring the hard, smooth rock in which they are cut.

The doubtful letters of the text were carefully examined by Captain
Conder and Lieutenant Mantell ; and Professor Sayce was thus enabled

■*"

>-'

iii

—J

—

Z
<

N
LU

-J

—

-1

^^/

/V//

■ ////- --

CH' >{

■^

«^

^\ ^.

<^'^ ^ ^

JERUSALEM. 347

to improve his original rendering in a few points. The final result of
these various labours is the transliteration and translation of Professor
Sayce given beneath. A cast of the inscription in plaster of Paris was
obtained by Captain Conder for the Palestine Exploration Society,
and is remarkably successful, giving even the most obscure letters very
faithfully.

TRANSLITERATION OF THE TEXT.

First line.

fy ----- - niya • nnpj ■ n . ini • 'r:r\ ■ nn • r\2p} - -

Second line.

• p^a -hp - - - - rh ■ nz:x ■ ii^'bc^ ■ niym • lyn ■ ha ■ trx • jn: • n

Third line.

• n n^2 ■ "1 p'j^ ■ -1^:: • mi • n*n • o • iyi • ha a -

Fourth line.

laSn • jnj ■ h^ ■ |n: • lyi rrnpS ■ ua ■ CDnvnn • i^n • nnp3

Fifth line.
Sixth line.

• - - • n5f n n • ti^xn Sy > "iifn • n^i ■ n^r^ ■ n&x • n

This transliteration depends on a careful comparison of the copies of
Professor Sayce and Doctor Guthe with the cast. The following is the
translation by Professor A. H. Sayce:

(i) (Behold) the excavation. Novv this (is) the history of the tunnel: while the excavators
were still lifting up

(2) The pick towards each other, and while there were yet three cubits (to be broken
through) . . . the voice of the one called

(3) To his neighbour, for there was an (?) c.xass in the rock on the right. They rose
up . . . they struck on the west of the

(4) E.xcavation ; the excavators struck, each to meet the other, pick to pick. And there
flowed

(5) The waters from their outlet to the Pool for a thousand two hundred cubits ; and (?)

(6) of a cubit, was the height of the rock over the head of the excavators . . .

44—2

348

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

As regards ihc date of this inscription, Professor Isaac Taylor points
out that the Koph and Tsadi approximate to the sixth centviry forms of the
Eshmunazar sarcophagus, and the Alcph and Mim are like those of the
seventh century Phoenician inscription of Abu Simbel. The inscription
thus appears to belong to the later period of the Hebrew monarchy, and
may very well be considered to agree with the Biblical account of
Hezekiah's preparations for Sennacherib's siege (Ecclus. xlviii. 17, and
2 Chron. xx.xii. 30). Professor Sayce, comparing the alphabet of the
inscription with those given by Euting, stated that the text must belong
to the period between the eighth and sixth centuries B.C. He has,
however, subsequently proposed to recognise the inscription as being as
old as the time of Solomon.

The various discussions which arose concerning this text before an
accurate ca.st and copy of the letters had been obtained need not here be
noticed. The general accuracy of Professor Sayce's first translation was
confirmed by the subsequent copies of the inscription.

ALPHABET OF THE SILOAM INSCRIPTION.

-F '

^
"n:*

-* >

Resembles the form on some of tlie Jewish coins.

As on Moabite stone.

As on Moabite stone, nearly.

As on Moabite stone.

Approaches the Samaritan form.
Approaches the form on Moabite stone.

Three bars as on Jewish coins.
]]'a>!tiiig, as also on Moabite stone.
As on Moabite stone.

As on Moabite stone.

As on Moabite stone, but ver)' long.

JERUSALEM.

349

y
w

As in Phcenician of seventh century.

As on Moabitc stone and on coins.

Wanting.

As on Moabite stone,

Approaches the form on Moabite stone.

Peculiar, but well-defined.

Peculiar. Appro.\imates to sixth century form.

As on Moabite stone.
As on Moabite stone.
As on Moabite stone.

The following remarks on the doubtful parts of the text were sent
home by Captain Conder in August, 1881, before Professor Sayce's final
translation of the inscription was published : —

' Our method was to produce ■^^ facsimile founded on a careful squeeze, and distinguishing
the sculptured strokes from natural cracks or dents, by pencilling the former on the squeeze
itself. We then compared the whole again with the text, reading letter by letter, and throwing
the light on each letter in turn from every side.

'The text consists of six lines, occupying a space of 23 inches by 7 J inches, on the lower
half of the tablet. The letters are from half an inch to three-quarters of an inch in height. The
first and second lines are injured on the right, and a large deep crack extends all down the
tablet near the left hand extremity, breaking the three upper lines, and partly mutilating the
fourth. The first line is illegible to the left of this fissure, the surface being rough and
covered with cracks. The fifth line does not extend the whole length of the longer lines,
occupying only about 16 inches.

'There appear to have been originally about 190 letters, of which 170 are now more or
less clearly recoverable. The text is thus not quite as closely written as the famous Marseilles
tablet. The letters are carefully formed, and some of the minor peculiarities, such as the
small hooks at the right hand extremities of the two horizontal strokes of the Zain, are
repeated in each repetition of the letter. The size of each letter is also much the same on
each repetition ; the vertical lines are broad, but not deep, the horizontal strokes are narrow,
but very sharply cut.

'AVe revisited, on the 4th August, 18S1, the rock-cut channel, and again spent three hours
in examining the te.xt.

350 TJIE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

' The result is that after several independent readings, we do not feel able to make any
alteration in the copy which I sent home on the 19th ult., with the exception of one doubtful
letter in the first line. It seems to us that this copy may be taken as representing all the
letters clearly traceable in the present condition of the inscription ; and although, when
guided by Professor Saycc's copy, we were able in some cases to distinguish traces of other
letters, we were not always able to make these agree entirely with the forms which he has given.

' \Ve arc able only to add one letter to those given by I'rofessor Sayce, namely a Koph,
which appears pretty distinctly at the end of the second line. We still are obliged to omit
twelve letters which are no longer traceable (to our eyes), and our co])y differs in eighteen
letters from that of Professor Sayce, notably in two passages which occur in the third and the
sixth lines. It must be remembered that I speak of the present condition of the text, as we
had no opportunity of examining it very minutely before it was cleaned with acid. Dr.
Guthe's copy, taken before this operation was performed, may, however, show letters not now
traceable, although, as far as we can judge, the inscription has not been in any way damaged
by the removal of the lime deposit.

' In our recent visit we were obliged to stand each for an hour and a half knee-deep in
water ; and we could not but admire the accuracy of Professor Sayce's results, obtained under
conditions even more unfavourable than those of our last visit. His published copy is,
however, not a facsimile, the spaces between the letters not being always the same as those
given by the squeeze, and the form of many of the characters not being exactly that given by
the text. The inscription occupies a space 23 inches long by 8 inches in height, the top
being 14 inches from the upper surface of the tablet, and the bottom of the sixth line 5 inches
above the lower border of the tablet, which is 2 7 inches square.

' As regards the forms of the letters, I may add a few notes to those in my former com-
munication.

'The Akph is written throughout in a uniform manner, and the shape does not appear
to us to be exactly that given by Professor Sayce, which resembles the Aleph of the Moabite
Stone, but rather the form of an inverted F with a spur — such as is found on Jewish coins.

' The Van appears also to be written throughout with a head formed by three strokes.
We are unable to find a single instance in which the head of the letter remains, and in which
only two strokes occur. In all the best preserved specimens the central stroke has at the end
a cross stroke or shoe, which makes it specially conspicuous.

' The Zain — as now seen very clearly — has also a uniform character, and is not formed
as shown on Professor Sayce's copy, no curved line occurring to join the horizontal bars.
The hooks at the right-hand end of these latter I have already noticed in a former letter.

' The Tzadi al.so does not seem to be formed as shown in Professor Sayce's copy. The
letter is only found five times on the inscription, and in three cases it is imperfect. In the
two perfect instances there is no loop joining the bars, but the latter resembles a W inverted
with shoes.

' These peculiarities have no doubt become clearer since the inscrijition was cleaned.
The length of the stroke of the Lamed, and its inclined position, are also details which seem
worthy of notice.

' The form of the Mem is also an important consideration. The cro,ss strokes are very
sharply cut, and although at a first glance the letters seem to have a W form for the head,
yet when minutely examined they all prove to be cut with a bar and cross strokes. The
Niin is also formed in a similar manner throughout.

JERUSALEM. 35'

' We may now proceed to consider the differences which appear in the copy made from a
squeeze by Lieutenant Mantell and myself, as compared with Professor Sayce's copy. The
results, which are given below, are derived from four independent readings of the inscriptions,
two taken by me, and two by Lieutenant Mantell. The position of the letters in our tracing
recently sent home is obtained by means of the squeeze, and this serves in one or two
instances to check the readings, and to determine the number of letters missing with tolerable
certitude.

'■ First Line. — At the commencement of the inscription the original surface of the rock is
still preserved, though somewhat cracked. The first Nun is very imperfect, and we were
quite unable to trace any distinct letters preceding it, though indications of what may have
been a He might be conjectured to exist.

' It is very doubtful whether one or two dots follow the word H^pJ- There are so many
small holes in the stone that the dots between the words are in a great many cases very
doubtful.

' The DaletJi in the word ^131 is not very clear, but its form and size resemble those of the
Dahtli immediately beneath it in the second line, the horizontal stroke being very slightly
curved.

' The reading Tiy^ given by Professor Sayce appears to us to be still legible, but the third
letter only is distinct, being a large and well-formed Van. The first and fourth letters seem
to be unusually small.

'The Vau at the end of the line has no head, and never apparently had one, the rock
being quite smooth. We thought that we could distinguish traces of Lamed and Ain pre-
ceding it, as read by Professor Sayce, but their existence seems extremely problematical.
There is room for two such letters, but to the right of them is a hole, and we were
unable to trace the Betli shown by Professor Sayce immediately to the left of the great
crack.

' AVith these exceptions, the reading of the text in this line is remarkably clear, and (save
as to the form of the letters) is the same as given by Professor Sayce. Our copy, however,
supports Mr. Filter's reading H^pJ, and after carefully re-examining the first letter of this
word, we felt sure that it could never have been a Mem.

' Second Line. — The traces of a LLe will be found in our copy at the beginning of this
line, and after minute examination, we were able to find the remains of a Gimel following it,
and to distinguish a Resli, well formed, but much worn, to the left — thus confirming the
reading |T"lJn- The last two letters and the dot are quite clear.

' After the word ly^, there is a dot and a very clear Vau. Between this and the Daleth
there is room for two large or for three smaller letters — as shown by Professor Sayce. The
letters which he shows we were, however, unable to recognise, and the first two seemed to us
most to approach y;^, though so indistinct and confused by cracks as to be very doubtful.
There would also seem to be the tail of a letter J/cw, Nun, CaJ>/i, or Fe to the left of those
two.

' The He in the word AmaJi is, as I have previously noted, almost indistinguishable, from
a crack in the rock. The next two letters are clear, but beyond these, where Professor Sayce
shows nSi we are only able to trace what looks like the head of a Vau, and the loop of either
a Betli or a Resh following it.

' Beyond the great crack in this line, there is a Koph as shown by Professor Sayce, and to
the right of this three strokes, which seem most probably to have belonged to an Alepli.

352 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

'Ihc Lamed :Skq.x the Koph seems to us quite clear, as well as the ,S///'« and the second Koph
with a dot after it (the last letter is not given by Professor Sayce).

' In all the distinct and several of the doubtful letters of this line, we are therefore able to
confirm the readings of Professor Sayce.

' Third Line. — The first Aleph should be preceded by a Beth, but there is now a small
deep hole in the rock where this letter (marked as doubtful by Professor Sayce) would have
occurred, and no trace of it is visible.

' After the distinct word iy"1 we make a great difference from previous copies. It is to be
hoped that our reading may render the translation of this puzzling passage easier. The
words, according to us, should stand m' • T\''T\ ■ O • "lyi- The Cff/Z/and the K7</seem very
clear. The double stop after the Tau is not, however, very certain. Lieutenant Mantell was
inclined to think that an Aiii might have existed here, which Professor Sayce also shows with
a query. The Dakth in the last word of the group is also not quite certain. There is a
horizontal stroke beneath it, but the rock is smooth and well preserved, and no trace of a
vertical stroke exists. Nor would the shape of the Beth thus formed, if it existed, be the
same as that of other Betlis in the inscription.

' Professor Sayce has divided the letters IJi^^ further on in this line into two words by a

dot, but we were unable to make certain of this division. The two letters which follow are
much defaced, and the rock is covered with a network of small cracks in this part, which
would make the cast almost entirely unintelligible. I was inclined to think that I could trace
the Koph shown by Professor Sayce, and that it may have been followed by a Beth. Lieu-
tenant Mantell would, however, give a Resh, with part of the tail of another letter.

' Beyond the great crack on the left, we read with Mr. Piker nS'^l ; and after a very close
examination we could clearly determine that the last letter but one is not a Nun, but certainly
a Mem, with the horizontal stroke and cross-bars. The only letter which we are unable to dis-
tinguish to the right of this word looks like the remains of an Ahph. There may have been
a Lamed between this and the Vati, but we regard both these letters as highly problematical.
There is room for a third letter before the Vau.

'^ Fourth Line. — The second word is read I^H by Professor Sayce; but the first letter of
the word seems to us clearly to be a lie and not a Cheth. There is a deep crack in the stone
at this point, which, before the deposit was removed, would have given the left stroke of the
Cheth, but as now seen, it appears to be clearly a natural and not a sculptured line. The
surface of the stone being uninjured, we could ascertain that there had never been any
" horn " on the left at the end of the bars of the He.

' By the aid of the copy we are able to distinguish the Ain preceding the Lamed in the
sentence n"lJ • 71? • HIJl- The first Zain is, however, imperfect, and the second G^mt/ cannot
be distinguished. The Vau succeeding these words is fairly clear, but only the middle
stroke of the head can be seen, with its characteristic shoe on the end of the stroke. The
final Vau at the end of the line we could not see clearly, but a trace of its vertical stroke may
perhaps be recognised.

' Fifth Line. — The second Mem has the same form as all the others in the text. We are
quite unable to find any remains of the Kc^/ given by Professor Sayce in Xi*lJ3, nor does there
seem to be any s|)ace for it between the Tzadi and the Aleph. The Tau in TlXM seems to
us to be very doubtful, though strokes exist which may have belonged to such a letter. It
should be noted that between this word and the next there is more space than is shown in

JERUSALEM. 353

Professor Sayce's copy. The dot is at some distance from the Yod, but even then there is
fully room for another letter before the Akpli. The surface of the rock is, however, injured in
this place. The last two letters of this line appear to us to read il, though the last may be
Mem, as it is very imperfect and indistinct.

' Sixth Line. — The third letter read Chcth by Professor Sayce is very indistinct, and may
have been a LLe. The letters T\'^T\ appear to us to be now quite distinct, and unmistakable,
although Professor Sayce reads quite differently. The letters H^T also seem to us to be dis-
tinct, and the letter which follows seems more probably a LLc than a Clielh. The Tzadi
which follows is imperfect, and the Resh or Beth next in order cannot be read as now
seen. The final letter of the inscription should apparently be Beth, but the surface of
the rock is here so damaged as to make it impossible to distinguish any of the three letters
which Professor Sayce places after the last Tzadi, for there is a hole in the stone at this
point.

' Such is a summary of our observations, which have been pursued entirely without con-
sideration of anything beyond the present appearance of the text. The main results which
seem likely to be of some service are those which concern the forms of the letters, and the
difficult readings of the third and sixth lines.'

It will be noticed that most of the alterations suggested in this report
have been adopted by Professor Sayce.

As regards the length of the aqueduct mentioned in the inscription, it
should be remarked that Professor Sayce has finally agreed to the trans-
lation, which gives a total of 1,200 cubits. The actual length of the
tunnel is about 1,760 feet from the Virgin's Spring to Siloam. A distance
of 1,200 cubits of 16 inches would measure 1,600 feet, and 18 inches
gives 1,800 feet. We may thus, perhaps, obtain a rough approximation
for the Jewish cubit.

The church over the Pool of Siloam, mentioned by Antony of Piacenza
(600 A.D.), may perhaps account for the two pillar stumps standing in the
modern pool. The intermittent flow of Siloam is mentioned by the
Bordeaux Pilgrim and by Jerome in the fourth century. The tunnel to the
Virgin's Fountain is described by Ouaresmius in 1625 a.d. A certain
Pater Julius had passed through it a few years earlier. Doctor Robinson
explored the channel in 1S38 a.d. ('Biblical Researches,' i. 338). The
following is the account given by Colonel Warren of his examination of
the aqueduct :

' The question of the origin of the Virgin's Fount aqueduct is a very interesting one ; it
appears to me to have been constructed in the following manner :

' First, an intermittent fountain on the west side of the Kedron issuing into the valley.
When the Assyrians were expected by King Hezekiah, the fountains outside the city were

354

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

stopped and the water brought inside. Tiiis applies completely to this fountain, for \vc find a
canal cut in the rock leading due west till it is well under the hill of Ophcl, then a shaft down
to this canal with a place scooped out at bottom for water to lie in, and an iron ring at top
to tic the rope of the bucket to ; leading from this shaft is a great corridor cut in the rock ;
and then also a staircase leading up until it is under a vaulted roof, the exit being on the hill
of Ophel, a few feet from the ridge, and almost certainly within the ancient walls. Below the
vaulted roof is another rock-cut shaft shown on the illustration, but this was only examined to
a depth of about 35 feet.

' Ai)parcntly after this had been in use for some time, it was considered insufficient for the

'. ;

sujjply of the city, as the receiving hole at the bottom of the shaft is so small and the corridor
so confined for a large number of people ; and so a rock-cut channel was cut through tlie hill
1,700 feet long, to carry the water into the Pool of Hezekiah, which already received the over-
flow water from the Gihon Pools. This pool was probably without the wall, but being at the
mouth of the valley it would be surrounded on three sides by the outer wall, and would thus
be as secure for the people as though it were inside ; at the same time it would act as a wet
ditch to protect a very vulnerable part of the fortress. This passage from the Virgin's Fountain
to Siloam has been examined by several gentlemen, but to most of them some accident
hajjpened, so that only measurements were taken. Le Frere Lievin (author of the very

JERUSALEM. 355

useful French Guide to the Holy Land) apparently took angles with an ordinary compass,
and I found his plan of the canal, which he lent mc to compare with mine, to be very
correct.

' In the month of December, 1867, I made a thorough examination and survey of the
passage leading from the Virgin's Fount to Siloam. V/e entered from the Siloam end, so as
to have as much clean work as possible. For the first 350 feet it was very plain sailing ; the
height of the passage sloping down from 16 feet at entrance to 4 feet 4 inches ; the width
being 2 feet ; the direction a wavy line to the east. At 450 feet the height of passage was
reduced to 3 feet 9 inches, and here we found a shaft leading upwards apparently to the open
air. This might be made use of to great advantage by the owners of the soil overhead. From
this shaft the passage takes a north-easterly direction, and at 600 feet is only 2 feet 6 inches
high. Our difficulties now commenced. Sergeant Birtles, with a Fellah, went ahead,
measuring with tape, while I followed with compass and field-book. The bottom is a soft
silt, with a calcareous crust at top, strong enough to bear the human weight, except in a few
places, where it let us in with a flop. Our measurements of height were taken from the top
of this crust, as it now forms the bottom of the acjueduct; the mud silt is from 15 inches
to 18 inches deep. We were now crawling on all fours, and thought we were getting on
very pleasantly, the water being only 4 inches deep, and we were not wet higher than our
hips. Presently bits of cabbage-stalks came floating by, and we suddenly awoke to the fact
that the waters were rising. The Virgin's Fount is used as a sort of scullery to the Silwan
village, the refuse thrown there being carried off down the passage each time the water
rises. The rising of the waters had not been anticipated, as they had risen only two hours
previous to our entrance. At 850 feet the height of the channel was reduced to i foot
ID inches, and here our troubles began. The water was running with great violence, i foot
in height, and we, crawling full length, were up to our necks in it.

' I was particularly embarrassed : one hand necessarily wet and dirty, the other holding
a pencil, compass, and field-book ; the candle for the most part in my mouth. Another
50 feet brought us to a place where we had regularly to run the gauntlet of the waters.
The passage being only i foot 4 inches high, we had just 4 inches breathing space, and had
some difficulty in twisting our necks round properly. When observing, my mouth was under
water. At 900 feet we came upon two false cuttings, one on each side of the aqueduct.
They go in for about 2 feet each. I could not discover any appearance of their being
passages : if they are, and are stopped up for any distance, it will be next to impossible to
clear them out in such a place. Just here I involuntarily swallowed a portion of my lead
pencil, nearly choking for a minute or two. We were now going in a zigzag direction
towards the north-west, and the height increased to 4 feet 6 inches, which gave us a little
breathing space; but at 1,050 feet we were reduced to 2 feet 6 inches, and at 1,100 feet we
were again crawling with a height of only i foot 10 inches. We should probably have
suffered more from the cold than we did, had not our risible faculties been excited by the
sight of our Fellah in front plunging and puffing through the water like a young grampus.
At 1,150 feet the passage again averaged in height 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches; at 1,400 we
heard the same sound of water dripping as described by Captain AVilson, the Rev. Dr.
]>arclay, and others. I carefully looked backwards and forwards, and at last found a fault
in the rock, where the water was gurgling, but whether rushing in or out I could not
ascertain. At 1,450 feet we commenced turning to the east, and the passage attained a

45—2

3S<5 TIFF. SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

height of 6 feet; at 1,658 feet we came upon our old friend, the passage leading to the
Ophcl shaft, and, after a further advance of 50 feet, to the Virgin's Fount Our candles
were just l)econiing exhausted, and the last three angles I could not take very exactly.
There were fifty-seven stations of the compass. AVhen we came out it was dark, and we had
to stand shivering for some minutes before our clothes were brought us ; we were nearly four
hours in the water. I find a difTcrence of 42 feet between my measurements and those of
Dr. Robinson, but if he took the length of the Virgin's Fount into account, wc shall very
nearly agree.

'The discover)' of a shaft leading down to the water of the Virgin's Fount threw
considerable light upon the object of the rock-cut canal leading from that fountain to the
Pool of Siloam, and proved that it could not have been constructed for the purpose of
conducting away the refuse and blood from the Temple.'

The following is the report sent home by Captain Conder of his visits
to the aqueduct on the loth and 22nd November, 1881 :

'Jerusalem, \st December, 1881.
' The details recorded in the Siloam inscription concerning the great conduit, seemed to
render it expedient to revisit the channel, in order to search for the point of junction between
the two working parties, as well as to ascertain whether any other inscribed tablets might
exist in other parts of the tunnel, or whether any marks connected with original measurements
might remain.

^sraaTKB? 'Wi^t^^^' _'f!^ iks^ar' 5!sSiS„... .'fcsxi®^

B e «« 109 XM 300 ^co 5O0IV4 ^

I— L— ^ .-^1 I 1 I '

' Lieutenant Mantell, Mr. Armstrong, and I therefore visited the tunnel on the loth
November, and spent nearly five hours in it, crawling from one end to the other, and
measuring carefully, with a chain and a prismatic compass, the whole length between the
Tool of Siloam and the upper spring (En Rogel, Gihon in the Valley, Bethesda, 'Ain Umm
ed Deraj, or the Virgin's Fountain, as it is variously called).

' We found less difficulty than Captain Warren experienced, because the level of the water
has been lowered, and the overflow of the upper spring does not occur often in autumn. We
were nevertheless very anxious while employed in the central section of the tunnel, where the
height is only about 1 9 inches for some 20 yards, the breadth being only about 2 feet : for if
the waters were to rise here (when the overflow occurs) to a height of little over a foot, it
would be almost impossible to escape drowning. We were unable to ascertain when the
water was expected to rise, or the height to which it attains ; but fortunately no overflow
took place during the five hours which wc spent in the tunnel, and we suflered only from the
discomforts of mud and leeches and wet clothing, with the fatigue due to crawling so long in
a cramped position, occasionally over stones or sharp fragments of broken pottery.

JERUSALEM. 357

' The measurement which we obtained with a chain (afterwards corrected by the standard)
gives a total length of i,7o6'S feet between the Siloam end of the tunnel and the place where
it enters the cross passage to the Virgin's Pool, thus agreeing within i -2 feet with Colonel
Warren's total of 1,708 feet, and proving that his conjecture as to Robinson's measurement
must be correct, and that the latter authority includes in his total of 1,758 feet that portion
of the cross passage which leads from the Siloam tunnel to the back of the Virgin's Pool, and
which measures 50-8 feet by the chain.

'The accompanying plan will be found to agree with that of Colonel Warren. The
section is made from measurement of the height of the channel in different places, taken by
us at frequent intervals where a marked alteration occurs. The surface is shown in accord-
ance with the intersections along the canal of the contours shown on the Ordnance Survey ;
and the supposed rock surface agrees with Colonel AVarren's " Rock Contours on Ophel,"
checked in one place by an actual measurement of the rock surface, which we have now
taken in the vertical shaft leading up from the roof of the tunnel.

'We were, however, not completely satisfied with the results of our first visit, and
accordingly, on the 22nd November, Lieutenant Mantell and I revisited the tunnel with a
view of ascertaining the point of junction between the two working parties, and of searching
for measurement marks on the walls.

'We entered from the northern end, and had just commenced operations, when a shout
from our servant warned us that the waters were rising.

' When we first entered there was not much more than a foot depth of water in the pool,
but the rush of water was now very rapid, and the depth increased just after we had reached
the foot of the steps which lead down to the pool, to 4 feet 7 inches. The sound of the current
pouring down the tunnel was distinct, and the depth of the water in the channel, as we found
afterwards, was somewhat over 9 inches, so that before the level had been lowered at the
Siloam end the passage of the tunnel must always have been a very dangerous undertaking ;
and, indeed, might still prove so to an explorer caught by the overflow in the lowest part of
the passage near the centre.

' On our second visit we remained four hours in the tunnel, and inspected both walls very
carefully, from the northern entrance to the place where we now suppose the junction of the
two working parties to have occurred. I think we may state with confidence that there is no
tablet similar to that now famous, to be found in any other part of the tunnel, and that there
is no other inscription. There is, indeed, no place fitted like that where the existing tablet
has been found, because the tunnel is quite dark except at the mouth, and is for the greater
part of its length so low that it would be extremely difficult, and often impossible, to carve an
inscription.

' As regards the existing tablet, I may remark that I have examined it again very closely,
and feel convinced that the inscription has not been in any way damaged by the application
of hydrochloric acid to remove the lime deposit which had filled in the letters. We have
copies by Dr. Guthe, taken both before and after the cleaning of the inscription, which serve
to show that no bad effect resulted from the repeated washings ; and the rock surface is still
quite firm and hard, showing no signs of rottenness or chipping. I cannot but think that
the letters which Professor Sayce put down, and which cannot now be discovered on any of
the squeezes or casts, were not actually existent in the rock, but were merely marks formed
by the lime deposit, and thus removed by the acid. Having seen the tablet before the acid

3S8 THE SURVEY OF WESTER. V PALESTINE.

was api)lied, I can add my testimony to that of others as to the entirely di/Tercnt aspect
which the inscription presented before and after cleaning. Before cleaning it resembled
a rude scrawl of uncertain shapes, while it is now seen to have been carved with
great care, in regular lines, and with constant forms for every letter. The copy published
in the "Quarterly Statement" for April, p. 70, contrasted with that given in October,
p. 2S6, gives in fact a very fair idea of the difference which was made by cleaning the
tablet.

' The cast which has now reached England is fortunately so good that but little room for
dispute can be left It appears that the text must originally have consisted of about 190
letters, of which 171 are recoverable. This number exceeds that which was first given in
Professor Sayce's copy, the total of which was 169 letters. It seems, therefore, clear that
no letters have been lost in the process of cleaning.

'The cast and se[ueeze will be found to agree with Professor Sayce's copy in 151 out of
169 letters. It is therefore clear that, practically, I'rofessor Sayce was able, in si)ite of the
great difficulties which he encountered, to transcribe correctly the great bulk of the inscription,
and thus was the first to give the reading which in the main has been accepted. In his latest
copy he has corrected 13 letters out of 18, in which he differed from the squeeze and the
cast, and has added one of the two missing letters. The points of dispute, so far as the
letters are concerned, are thus reduced to five letters which are doubtful, and two letters
wliich a])pcar on the cast but were not sent home on the squeeze, or noticed in the accom-
])anying report.

' I have also compared the cast and my own squeeze with Dr. Guthe's copy, which is the
best which has been made, with the exception of the cast. Dr. Guthe's copy agrees with ours
in every respect. He has, however, shown six more letters than we were able to recover, and
all six are correct according to the cast. Indeed, Dr. Guthe's copy appears to be perfect,
with exception of the omission of two letters in the first line, which will be discovered on the
cast.

' The important details which will be elucidated by the cast are as follows : In the first line
Professor Sayce and Professor Socin read liy^ nipjri' which proves to be correct. In the
fourth line Professor Sayce reads 7X1 but Professor Socin 75J. It will be seen from the
cast that Professor Socin is right. There arc, of course, many other minor points on
which the cast throws much light, confirming the squeeze in a very satisfactory manner.

In the fifth line there is no doubt room for the disputed letters in the reading S7XI DTlSO^'
but I have not been able to find any traces of the 1 Q on either squeeze, cast, or stone ; and
it seems highly probable that a fissure in the rock here existed at the time when the inscrip-
tion was cut.

' The two letters |n at the beginning of the inscription, which Professor Sayce adopted
from Mr. Piker, I have never been able to find on the stone, although the original surface
li ])reserved, nor have I been able to find the letters (n)I at the end of the inscription,
which are also absent from Dr. Guthe's copy. Possibly these, and the disputed a in the
second line, may have been marks due to the lime incrustation, and not actual letters
at all.

' I may now proceed to describe the reasons which induce us to suppose that we have been
able to fix the exact point of junction of the two working parties, in a position which exactly

JERUSALEM.

359

36o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE

•TTccs with ihc inscription, according to Professor Sayce's latest translation (" Quarterly
Statement," October, 1881, p. 284). For this purpose we have prepared an enlarged
plan and section of the central part of the tunnel, where a remarkable S shaped contortion
occurs.

' At the points a, h, c, e, /, g, h, and /, certain set backs will be observed in the walls of the
])assage, which indicate a sudden change in direction on the part of the excavator. They
are, indeed, (iilse heads, abandoned apparently from the conviction that the passage was not
going in the right direction. In the case of // and /, however, which are out of the general
direction, and continued further, those recesses may have served as sidings, allowing two
excavators to pass one another, which would be impossible without them.

' The important point, however, to observe is that some of these headings point up
channel, and some point down, and this not without a system, for while a, b, c, e, point down,
g, //, / point up. Similar headings occur in other parts of the tunnel, but they always agree
with the rule thus observed, those which are between the Virgin's Fountain and the point a
pointing down stream, and those between / and Siloam pointing up stream.

' Each of these headings has a rounded lop, such as would result from the excavation of
the rock with a pick, by a man working with his face to the front. It shows that on turning
aside from the heading he left the roof unfinished, in just the form which would result from
the swinging of a pick in a curve, which — as a moment's reflection will convince the reader
— is the shape natural to an unfinished excavation. Looking at the plan then, we see that
an excavator facing dmcn stream was working at the headings a, b, c, and was three times
induced to work away further to his right. Looking at /, we see an excavator working up
stream and induced to turn to his right. We see, moreover, that the point e might have been
the actual point where the channels met, as there is a slight set back down stream within
2 feet of the set back / up-stream.

' Now on looking at the section and cross-section, it will be seen that there is a sudden
difference of level in the roof of the channel at this point.

' Within a distance of 2 feet 6 inches it falls from 4 feet 8 inches to 3 feet 7 inches, and
a sort of rim occurs where the lower channel (up-stream) joins the more lofty down-stream
excavation.

' In fact, the general appearance of this part of the tunnel, looking up-stream from / is
that of a smaller drain opening into a main drain, and would of itself suggest that this is the
point of junction, without considering tiie testimony of the headings. It may, therefore, I
think, be considered certain that the place of junction was at the point e, or '944 feet from
the mouth of the tunnel, and consequently 812-8 feet from the back of the Virgin's
Fountain.

' This discovery agrees in a remarkable manner with the wording of the inscription. In
the directions which are indicated by the headings at a and / the two parties were working
nearly parallel to one another, and might have passed each other without joining, having a
thickness of 7 feet of rock between ; those in the up-stream channel being to the right
or east of those in the down-stream tunnel. Each, therefore, began to turn to his right ;
and those in the up-stream channel did so most rapidly. The shape of the cutting at the
point d gives evidence of a very complete change of axis. This is not, as might be supposed
from the plan, an up-stream heading, conflicting with what has been said before ; for the roof
of the tunnel at d is curved on the side and not at the end of this set back, showing that the

JERUSALEM. 36:

woikmnn, after leaving the false headings a, b, c, began to widen the channel on his right,
facing for a short time to the side instead of to his front. The little buttress thus left was
never cleared away, but remains to give its evidence of the method of excavation of the
tunnel.

'The inscription (line 2) tells us that /Itrec cubits remained to be broken through, when it
was discovered that there was an "excess in the rock to the right." Now if we consider the
down-stream party to have worked to e, it will be seen that the party at d were just three
cubits of 16 inches from them, when they discovered their excess, and began to cut away the
rock on the right. It was this which was done according to the text (line 3), for they "struck
on the west " — that is, facing west, just as we have seen the excavator at d must have faced.
The party at e, in the meanwhile, seem to have stopped working, which they would naturally
do, to avoid injuring, or being injured by, the others when the pick struck through the last
dividing partition of rock. Again, in the last line, we read that " three-fourths [?] of a cubit
was the height of the rock over the head of the excavation." If this be the correct reading,
it is remarkable that the difference of height of the two channels at the point of junction is
just 13 inches, or close upon three-fourths of a cubit of 16 inches.

'Unfortunately, however, the text is deficient just in the place where the number occurs,
and it appears, according to Professor Sayce, that the word H/D^? is used as a plural : it may,
tlierefore, be found that the measurement recorded in the inscription refers to something else.
The words " height of the rock over the head of the excavators," strictly interpreted, would
seem to infer that the excavators were aware of the thickness of the rock above them, that
is, of the depth of the channel below the surface of the hill. This they could only ascertain
either by measurement at the mouths of the channel, or by running contours over the hill —
just as the accompanying section is constructed from the contours — unless they made a shaft
to the surface. This is just what they did, for at a distance of 470 feet from the south end a
shaft still exists reaching up to the rock surface. It is covered in above with large fallen
blocks, but was no doubt once open and served as a well mouth. The rock surface is 14
feet above the fioor of the tunnel, the height of which is 3 feet 8 inches at this point. The
thickness of rock is, therefore, about 10 feet "above the head of the excavation" at the
shaft. This is the minimum thickness, as is shown by the section, for towards the north the
rock surface is 170 feet above the roof of the tunnel. Perhaps in the end the doubtful word
may prove to be JlH^ "a hundred," of which the first and last letters certainly occur,
though the X has not been discerned ; and the inscription in such a case would refer, in
general terms, to the average thickness of the rock above the aqueduct.

'Still more interesting is the question whether the length of "a thousand cubits" can
have any connection with the measured length of the canal. It is remarkable that 1,700 feet
is very close upon 1,000 cubits of 21 inches, and is also very nearly r,2oo cubits of 17 inches,
so that the two readings adopted by Professor Sayce and Mr. Shapira respectively might both
be supported on the assumption of a different length for the cubit. It would, however, be a
very astonishing coincidence if a tunnel so irregularly excavated should in the end have
proved to be exactly a thousand cubits long, and it seems far more probable that the writer
of the inscription gives an estimated or approximate length, in round numbers, in which case
the inscription has no value as fixing the length of the cubit. I have given, in the " Quarterly
Statement" of 18S0, a rhunic of the measurements of the Jerusalem Haram and the Galilean
Synagogues, which appear to indicate a length of about 16 inches as that of tlie Jewish cubit,
which was not of necessity the same as the Egyptian cubit.

362 THE SURVEY OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

''I'lic avcinge measurement of the Iiiiman hand, as conipaicd wiih the length of the
Zcrcth or breadth of four fingers, and of the sil or span : and the digit of Maimonides as
compared with the contents of an average egg, all agree with this shorter measurement.
Tlie " cubit " (or furc arm) " of a man " cannot be measured so as to give 2 1 inches, nor
could 48 barleycorns be made to measure mure than about 16 inches (cf. "Handbook to
Bible," pp. 57, 79).

'We have paid special attention to the question whether any marks of measurement
could be found on the walls or roof of the channel, and we obtained measurements of certain
distances between marks on the wall, of which a digest is given below. The marks in
question are evidently artificial, being square or triangular notches measuring about 1 J inches
wide. In one place two of them occur 3 inches apart (half a cubit of 16 inches), which, if it
had any weight, would seem to indicate that the measurements were not very carefully taken.
It seems impossible, however, to deduce any result of value from the measurements
tabulated.

'There are marks in other places where iron cramps seem to have been driven some
3 inches into the rock, but these also have no regular interval of occurrence, and a very
careful examination of both walls, four times repeated, has failed to show us any other marks
or signs than those above-mentioned.

'The general impression resulting from an examination of the conduit is that it was the
work of a people whose knowledge of engineering was rudimentary. It is well known that
in mining it is very difficult to induce the excavator to keep in a truly straight line, the
tendency being to diverge very rapidly to one side. It is possible that this is the real reason
of the crooked run of the canal ; but another reason may have been the comparative hardness
of the strata met in mining at a uniform level through a hill, with beds having a considerable
dip. It will, however, be observed that, after jxassiiig the shaft, the direction of the tunnel
changes to a line more truly directed on the Virgin's Fountain. The excavators from the
Siloam end became aware, probably by the impossibility of seeing a light at the head of the
mine, when standing at the mouth of the channel, that they were not going straight, and the
only means they had of correcting the error, consisted in making a shaft up to the surface to
see where they had got to. After ascertaining this, they went straight for about 140 feet,
and then diverged gradually to the left; but their general direction, nevertheless, agrees
roughly with that of the rock contour, which may be due to following a particular seam of
rock.

'The northern party were yet more hopelessly in the dark, and the great divergence to the
AVest can only be explained by supposing that they did not know where they were going.
They seem to have been guided, at length, by the sound of the picks in the other tunnel,
which would be heard at a considerable distance through the soft rock, but even then their
course indicates great uncertainty.

' It is also apparent that a rivalry must have existed between the two parties, working as
the inscription tells us "eagerly;" for the two narrowest parts of the tunnel occur, one on
either side of the point of junction. In fact, the excavators must be accused of scamping
their work, with the object of showing a greater total length than their rivals, and for this
purpose they reduced the size of the excavation to a minimum in which it seems almost
impossible that a man could have worked. It is clear, anyhow, that the excavators were not
giants, and probable that they were under the average size of the modern pcasaiilry in
ralcstiiie.

JERUSALEM. 363

' Another interesting question is the increase of height in the tunnel near the point of
junction. This may have been due to the intention of concealing their previous proceedings,
but it seems more probable that the reason is to be found in the difference of level between
the two channels where they meet. The height of the channel does not appear — according
to the section — to bear any relation to the thickness of the rock above, but there must
evidently have been some cause for the difference of heiglit in various parts of the aqueduct.
There is a fall of a foot in the whole length of the tunnel, but the bottom is coated with very
hard mud, so that it is quite impossible to ascertain whether the floor is properly levelled or
no. At one point (// on enlarged plan) a sudden fall of 4 inches appears to occur in the floor
level, and tiie water becomes deeper within a few steps. From this point, also, the roof
begins to rise, and gets gradually higher. In 49 feet from h to the point of junction e, the
tunnel increases from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet 8 inches in height. It seems probable,
therefore, that the southern, or up-stream tunnel, struck higher by about 2 feet than the floor
of the down-stream shaft, and that the floor was subsequently lowered as far as //, when it was
found that the water would flow for the rest of the way to the pool without further alteration.
This inference could only be drawn from the fact of the soutliern channel being the highest —
which is the case. If the northern channel had been the highest we should probably have
found a kind of shoot, instead of a gradual levelling off of the floor. The observation serves,
however, to give an independent confirmation of the determination of the point of junction
before indicated from consideration of the plan alone.

' With all allowances, it is nevertheless remarkable that there should have been so little
difference of level between the two tunnels. It would have been easy, from the flow of the
torrent in the Kedron, to make sure that the Pool of Siloam was lower than the spring; and
it would not have been difficult by means of a plummet, or of a rude water-level of some
kind, to preserve the level of the channel floor ; but it is extraordinary that the two extreme
ends of the channel should differ by only a foot in level, considering that the two ends were
started independently.

' The two ends of the channel are more lofty than any other part, and near the mouth the
tunnel is 12 to 16 feet high. Perhaps this may also be connected with the question of the
water-level, for the intermittent flow of the Virgin's Pool must have caused considerable diffi-
culties. It is true that at the time of the excavation of the tunnel, the overflow of the spring
appears to liave been carried off by the " brook that ran through the midst of the land "
(2 Chron. xxxii. 4), but some of the water would, nevertheless, run down the cliannel. If,
however, the floor of the tunnel at its upper end had Liccn kept about a foot above the high-
water m.ark until the end of the work, tliis would have been sufficient to prevent any flow
down the tunnel. The height of the aqueduct at the upper end is 2\ feet, and it increases
rapidly to 6 feet in 20 feet distance, after which it decreases gradually to about 3 feet. This
might be explained by supposing that the tunnel was purposely at first run up-hill for a short
distance to prevent the water entering, and was afterwards enlarged by sinking the floor so as
to admit the overflow when the natural outflow of the Virgin's Pool down the Kedron valley
was stopped.

' The enlargement at the southern end may also be due to the sinking of the floor after
the junction had been effected. It may have been found that the water stood in the tunnel
and could not flow into the pool. The excavators would then cut away the rock floor until
the water ran through, and the roof would consequently be higher above the water than near
the centre, where the water was standing. In this case, it seems to have been merely acci-

46 — 2

3<5-1 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

dental that the levels of the tunnels near the point of junction were so nearly the same, and
the differences of height in various parts are seen to be easily cxjjlained, on the theory that
the aqueduct required considerable alteration after the junction had been effected, and the
water admitted into the ui)per part of the cliannel in order to obtain an outflow at the Pool
of Siloam.

'I have thus enumerated all the points which seem to me of importance as bearing on
the method of construction of tlie canal, and its relation to the wording of the inscription.
The number of small bends and irregularities in the course of the tunnel shows, not less than
do the larger irregularities, that it was the work of primitive engineers, unacquainted with any
very accurate instruments or methods of measurement Such rock-cut channels are found in
other parts of Palestine (as at 'Askar, near Shechem, Sheet XI. ; at 'Anin, Sliect VIII. ; or
at LcjJLin, Sheet VIII.), but the Siloam tunnel is tlic most important work of the kind yet
discovered. The sides are covered up to a height of about 3 feet with a thin red cement,
very hard, and full of pounded pottcrj-, being exactly simihr in constitution to that now used
in Palestine for lining cisterns. The cracks in the rock are in many places filled in with
similar cement above the 3-feet level. In other places the rock has been cut away so as to
form a little drain, by which a small land-spring could be led into the channel.

' The lower part of the channel has been widened slightly in the parts where the tunnel
is highest, the walls being scooped out some 3 inches on either side to a height of about
2i feet. There is also a shaft or standing place at 700 feet from the south end. It is 7 feet
high from the floor, and the roof is of rock. Possibly it was made by the excavator to rest
liimself in by standing upright after working for a long time in a recumbent position, for it is
near the lowest part of the tunnel. It may also have been constructed for safety when the
sudden overflow of the spring filled the tunnel, for his head would be high above the water if
he sat or stood under this shaft.

'We did not observe any side entrance into the channel at any point, and the walls
and roof are of solid rock throughout. The initials J. A. S. II. M., and date 1835, are
burnt with the smoke of a candle on the roof of the tunnel at 240 feet from the southern
end.

' In connection with this tunnel I may add a few words as to the new aqueduct recently
discovered by the Fellahin. It was not apparently e.xamined by Dr. Guthe, and only a small
part of it is at present visible. The level of the top of the covering stones is about 2,091
feet at the point observed. The stones are i foot thick, and the channel beneath is at least
2 feet deep, and probably more, as it is filled up with rubbish. This gives a level 2,088 feet,
which is a foot above the level of the bottom of the Pool of Siloam, from which this aqueduct
appears to have led. The channel is rock cut, 3 J feet wide, and roo.''ed with slabs of stone.
In some of these there are slits about 3 inches wide and 20 inches long, but the object of
these openings is not clear, unless they served for air holes to relieve the pressure. The
aqueduct apjjears to follow the contour of the hill, westwards from Siloam, and the Fellahin,
who have not discovered the end of it, suggested tli.it it went to the Bir Kyub, where it will
be remembered Colonel Wanen found an unfinished subterranean channel. The difference
of level is, however, too great to allow of the two being probably connected. It would be
very interesting to follow up the aqueduct from both ends, especially as it may furnish the
real explanation of the ex|)ression that Hczekiah 'Stopped the watercourse of the upper
spring and brought it straight down to the west side of the City of David " (2 Chron. xxxii. 30),
thus throwing some light on the vexed question of the position of this part of Jerusalem.

JERUSALEM.

365

It is quite possible that subterranean reservoirs, as yet unknown, may exist in ronncction witli
this aqueduct, for the Bir Eyub itself \Yas long quite unknown, and was recovered in the
Itliddle Ages by excavation.

Taele of Distances, Siloam Tunnel.

The Zero marks the commencement of a series of measurements letivccn
tivo or more notches.

Feet.

16-inch

1 7 ■72-inch

18-inch

2 1 -inch

cubit.

Notch A

,, B

8
1 J

•5

•45

•44

•38

„ c

5 7-1 J

43'i2

38-43

3S-33

3286

)> ^^

I) 1^

4.1^

3'-37

28-33

27 87

23-90

!! Cz

I--l^.

8-57

8-44

724

>. H

'Si's

11-37

10 27

lOT I

8-69

,, Iv

25 ;.

19-12

17-27

'7-

1457

II I'

2h"-

18-37

16-59

15-93

13-52

„ M

9i"-

712

643

6-33

5-43

'AiN Umm ED Deraj,

the so-called Virgin's Fountain, contains the supply which runs by
the aqueduct to Siloam as mentioned in the preceding pages. The
spring rises in a cave measuriiig about 20 feet to the back, and 7 feet
across. There is an entrance at the back towards the left, into a small
tunnel, which runs for 67 feet in a serpentine form, and out of which
the main Siloam tunnel starts on the west side at a distance of 50 feet
along the serpentine tunnel. The approach to the cave on the east
is down two flights of steps, the upper of si.Kteen steps, the lower of
ten — the second flight being under a modern arch, which also covers a
landing 13 feet long by 10 feet wide, between the flights. The total
length of the landing and two flights is about 53 feet, and there is a
passage, \o\ feet long, 3 feet wide, at the bottom of the lowest flight,

jOfi THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

v.hich is only 5 feet wide. The pool seems originally to have been visible
-in the face of a cliff, and the vault and steps arc modern. Possibly the
original e.xit of the water was down the Kedron valley, until this was
stopped by I Iczckiah (2 Chron. xxxii. 4), when he stopped ' the stream of
the upper spring' (Giiion, of. v. 30), and cut the aqueduct to Siloani.

The water wells up in the cave, and attains a depth of about 4 feet
7 inches before running- away through the passage at the back. The
level of the bottom of the pool appears to be about 2,084 f^^t above the
Mediterranean, and the aqueduct channel 2,088 feet where it leaves the
pool, giving a fill of about a foot to Siloam.

The intermittent flow is held by the natives to be due to a dragon
v/ho swallows the water beneath the cave when awake ; when he is asleep
the water rises and (lows away. It is interesting to note that a similar
dragon, who ' keeps back the waters,' is the enemy of the Indian rain-god,
Indra, whose contest with this dragon and delivery of the waters is con-
stantly noticed in the Vedas,

The modern Jews believe the waters of this pool to be a sure cure for
rheumatic complaints. They often go in numbers, men and women
together, and stand in tlicir clothes in the pool, waiting for the water to
rise. This fact, together with the meaning of the name Bethesda, ' house
of the stream,' renders it very probable that the Virgin's Fountain is the
pool mentioned in the fourth Gospel (John v. 2), which was near the
' sheep place ' — possibly, therefore, outside Jerusalem.

The intermittent flow occurs, in spring, twice or thrice in a day, luit in
autumn only once in two or three days.

The following is Sir Charles Warren's account of his exploration of
the shaft at the end of the serpentine passage at the back of the pool :

'To-day, October 24t!i, having managed to obtain a small quantity of wood after infinite
trouble, we went down to tlie Fountain shortly after sunrise; we had some 12-feet battens 2
feet square, but were obliged to cut them in half, as 6-feet lengths could only be got into the
passage ; the water was unusually low, and we managed to crawl through on our bare iinees
without wetting our upper clothing very much, which was fortunate, as we had the whole d.iy
before us. After passing through the pool we had to crawl 50 feet, and then came upon the
new passage, which is 17 feet long, opening into the shaft. The bottom of this shaft is (now
that the deposit is removed) lower by about 3 feet than the bottom of the aqueduct, and was
evidently filled from the Virgin's Fountain. The length of the shaft averages 6 feet, and
width 4 feet. We had a carpenter with us, but he was very slow, and quite unused to rough-
and-ready style of work, and the labour of getting up the scaffolding devolved on Servant

JERUSALEM. S--?

Cirtlcs and myself, llic Fellahiii bringing in tlie vvood and handing it to us. Once, while they
were bringing in some frames, the spring suddenly rose, and they were awkwardly placed for
a few minutes, being nearly suffocated.

' By jamming the boards against the sides of the shaft we succeeded in getting up 20 feet
when we commenced the first landing, cutting a check in the rock for the frames to rest on,
and made a good firm job of it. Then, with four uprights resting on this, we commenced a
second landing. On lighting a piece of magnesium wire at this point, we could see, 20 feet,
above us, a piece of loose masonry impending directly over our heads ; and as several loose
pieces had been found at the bottom, it occurred to both of us that our position was critical.
Without speaking of it, we eyed each other ominously, and wished we were a little higher up.
The second landing found us 27 feet above the bottom of the shaft. The formation of the
third was very difficult ; and, on getting nearly to the loose piece of masonry, we found it
more dangerously placed than we had imagined, and weighing about 8 cwt. So we arranged
it that the third landing should be a few inches under this loose mass, so as to break its fall
and give us a chance. This third landing was 38 feet above the bottom of the shaft. We
floored it with triple boards. It was ticklish work, as an incautious blow would have detached
the mass ; and I doubt if our work would have stood the strain. About 6 feet above landing
No. 3 the shaft opened out to west into a great cavern, there being a sloping ascent up at an
angle of 45°, covered with loose stones about a foot cube. Having hastily made a little
ladder, I went up ; and very cautious I had to be. The stones seemed all longing to be off;
and one starting would have sent the mass rolling, and me with it, on top of the sergeant,
all to form a mash at the bottom of the shaft. After ascending about 30 feet, I got on to a
landing, and the sergeant followed. We found the cave at this point to be about 20 feet
wide, and to go south-west and north-west. The former appeared inaccessible ; the latter we
followed, and at 15 feet higher came on a level plateau. From this is a passage 8 feet wide
and 3 feet to 4 feet high, roof cut in form of a depressed arch, out of rock. We followed it
for 40 feet, and came to a rough masonry wall across the passage, with hole just large enough
to creep through. On the other side the passage rose at an angle of 45°, the roof being at
the same angle and still cut in the same manner as before. The space between the roof and
the bank is about 2 feet. There are toe-holes cut in the hard soil, so that, by pressing the
back against the roof, it is easy to ascend. Fifty feet up this found us at the top, where was
another rough masonry wall to block up the passage ; and on getting through we found our-
selves in a vaulted chamber 9 feet wide, running about south for 20 feet ; arch of well-cut
squared stone, semicircular ; crown about 20 feet above us ; below us was a deep pit. We
had now to go back for ropes ; but, on getting near the shaft, found it impossible to get down
with safety. Luckily the sergeant had a sash on, which, torn up in four pieces, just reached
down to the ladder ; and we hauled up the rope and took it to the vaulted chamber and
descended into the pit, about 20 feet deep, and then into a smaller one about 8 feet deeper
where we found the appearance of a passage blocked up. Coming back, we explored another
little passage with no results.

♦ The sides of the horizontal portion of the pissage are lined with piles of loose stones,
apparently ready to be thrown down the shaft ; on these we found three glass lamps of curious
construction at intervals, as if to light up the passage to the wall or shaft ; also in the vaulted
chamber we found a little pile of charcoal, as if for cooking, one of these lamps, a cooking
dish glazed inside, for heating food, and a jar for water. Evidently this had been used as a
refuge. Two other jars (perfect), of red pottery, we found in the passage ; and also over-

303 rilE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

hanging Ihc shaft an iron ring, by which a rope mi-ht have been attached for hauling np
water. Having now explored this i)assage, there only remained that going south-west. To
"et to it, it was necessary to go down half way to the shaft and then up again for about 15
feet. I had a rope slung round me and started off; the use of the rope was questionable, as
it nearly ])ullcd me back in climbing up. On gelling into the passage we found the roof (of
rock) had given way, and nothing definite could be seen but pieces of dry walls built up here
and there. In coming down, part of a dry wall toppled over into my lap as I was sitting on
the edge of the drop. Sergeant Birtles was 6 feet lower down, and narrowly escaped them ;
they were e.ich about a foot cube ; three of them came on me, but I managed to hilch them
liai k into the passage. We now heard, to our surprise, that the sun had set, so getting
logcllicr our dclf, we made all haste down. On coming out, great was the commotion among
the i)eoi)le of Siloam, who wanted to have a share in the treasure, and would not believe we
had only got aiiply jars. We got into town some time after dark.

' October z8//i. — On going up the scaffold next day, a stone over 2 feel long was found
lying on the top landing ; it had fallen during the night. The men are now working at the
blocked-up passage in the vaulted chamber. Two more jars have been found.

' The hill, which is generally called Ophel, extends in a southerly direction from Mount
Moriah, gradually sloping down through a horizontal distance of 2,000 feet until it becomes
lost at the Pool of Siloam. Its highest point, near the Triple Gate, is 300 feet above its foot
at the Siloam Pool ; it is bounded on the east by the Kedron, and on the west and south by
the Tyropceon valley, these two valleys meeting at the pool. The descent into the valley of
the Kedron is very steep (about 30°), and the natural surface of the rock is covered up by
ddiris from 10 to 50 feet in height.

'About the centre of the Ophel hill, to the east, in the Kedron, is the Fountain of the
Virgin, an intermittent spring whose waters communicate with the Siloam Pool by means of
a rock-cut canal running in a serpentine course through the hill. About three-quarters of the
way up the hill, due west from the Virgin's Fount, is a vault running north and south, the
crown uf which is 22 feet below the present surface of the slope. This vault spans a chasm
or culling in the rock, and the springing is from the rock ; the chasm, when discovered, was
over 40 feet deep, and beyond that depth was filled up with debris ; it, and the vault also, is
S feet wide ; the arch was originally semicircular, but is now very much distorted. The
length of the arch is about 1 1 feet, but 4 feet farther to the south the vault is open, the roof
being self supporting, earth and stones, and is in a very dangerous condition. It appears
that the southern wall, on which the voussoirs overlapped, has given way and fallen into the
chasm, taking with it a quantity cf rubbish from several feet above the crown of the arch at
the south end : the voussoirs here project irregularly, and a slight fall of rubbish from above
them would probably displace one of them, and thus cause a further fall, and so the arch
would collapse. Some time in June, or July, or August, a fall of stones took place, when the
work was not going on.

' It is not apparent at present in what manner the vault was reached from the outside, but
it is likely that there was an entrance through the southern wall which has been described as
having fallen.

' About 1 7 feet 9 inches below the crown of the arch at the north side is the commence-
ment of a sloping rock-cut passage leading north-east by east. The earth has been cleared
out, and we find the passage to be 8 feet wide and from 10 to 12 feet liigh. There are several
rock<ut steps for the first part of the descent, then a landing and a drop of 10 feet.

JERUSALEM.

366

■f...

370 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

The horizontal length of this passage is 39 feet, the fall is 37 feet. At the bottom is a
passage whose roof slopes about 5 feet in its length of 68 feet. This passage is on plan
nearly semicircular, bending round from north-east by east to south-south-west. Then there
is a sloijing jiassage for about 18 feet, the fall being at an angle of 45', and we arrive at the
top of the shaft, 44 feet deep. All these passages, canals, shafts, etc., are cut in the solid
rock, the nature of which is a hard silicious chalk called mezze/i, except near the top of the
shaft, where the rock is soft and decayed.

'As yet the rubbish has only been cleared out of the staircase passage, so that we know
nothing about the bottom of the passage leading to the shaft, but probably it is 10 feet
high.

'It was very desirable to know how far the chasm under the vault extends, and for what
purpose it was cut out, and also what there is to the south of the vault. The vault, however,
was in too dangerous a condition to work under, so I arranged to fill up the chasm with the
diliris from the staircase passage. This we have already partially done. On the soil reach-
ing the top of the staircase landing, gallery frames were fixed up through the length of the
vault, and battened together, and soil filled in at the side and top, so that the men can now
work to south or sink a shaft without danger from the arch giving way. I hope the arch will
be filled up to the top and quite secure in a week.

' We have now commenced the prolongation of the before-mentioned gallery to the south ;
if we find nothing in particular, I shall make steps up to the surface, so that any visitors this
year to Jerusalem may go and see these passages without descending a vertical shaft.

'I should have mentioned that the voussoirs of the arch are of mekkeli, very much
decayed, and capable of crumbling on the slightest extra pressure.

' It is a curious circumstance that the landing at the top of the staircase is unconnected
with any doorway or other means of exit, so that it suggests itself whether there has been a
wooden bridge across the vault from the southern to the northern side, as it appears as if this
chasm is of great depth, and any very temporary means of getting across would have been
disagreeable with such a drop down below-.

' Should we find that our rock-cut canal below Bir Eyiib is unconnected with that well,
we may hope that it extends from and forms part of this system of passages at the Virgin's
Fount. It will be observed on the plan (No. 19) that the vault comes quite to the south-east
of the canal from Virgin's Fount to Siloam, and may, therefore, very well be connected with
other passages.

'The work of excavation here has been going on at intervals. In May, under Dr.
Chaplin's superintendence, the rock was bared for 30 feet on the surface down towards the
Kedron, and the rubbish in the passages was moved from side to side in search of other
branches. The gallery along the surface of the rock had eventually to be abandoned on
•Account of the treacherous nature of the soil. The work was resumed about a fortnight
ago.

' A shaft was sunk at 40 feet to south of vault, and at the same time the space under the
vault was filled up by the earth from the rock-cut passages. On getting up to the level of the
entrance down by the staircase, a gallery was laid on the top of the soil and then covered
over with earth until it was filled in right under the arch. This was very dangerous work, as
the arch appears ready to fall at each concussion of the falling earth. The gallery was then
driven to south, when it was found we were in a rock-cut passage without a roof, the original
entrance to the vault ; after ascending rough steps we cut in upon the shaft we had sunk

JERUSALEM. 37 1

south of the vault, joined them, and then filled up the shaft, which was over the vault.
Having now the arch made secure, we commenced a shaft directly underneath it to examine
the rock-cut shaft, but the made earth was allowed to fall in, and a slip took place throughout
the whole of the gallery, so much so that the work had eventually to be abandoned.'

BiR Eyub,

' Job's Well,' is so called from a native tradition that Job sat here

on his dung-hill.* The well was rediscovered by the Franks in 1184A.D.,

and cleaned out ; it was then identified with En Rogel. TJie following

is Sir Charles Wilson's description of the well :

' The only well known at present is Bir Eyub, a little below the junction of the Kedron
and Hinnom valleys ; but others may possibly exist in the city and neighbourhood, which
have been accidentally closed by rubbish, or purposely stopped during some siege, and never
reopened. This well, which has a depth of 125 feet, is still, in summer, one of the principal
sources of supply. The water is collected in a large rock-hewn chamber, and is derived from
the drainage of the two valleys and their offshoots. The supply is directly dependent on the
rainfall ; and in winter, after from three to five consecutive days' rain, the water rises above
the shaft, and flows down the valley in a stream. The well has been deepened at some
period, as at a depth of 113 feet there is a large chamber, from the bottom of which a shaft,
12 feet deep, leads to the present collector. There is a great quantity of rubbish in the
valley ; and in constructing the well the idea seems to have been to stop out the surface-
drainage, which might be charged with impurities from the city, and depend entirely on the
water running in between the lower layers of limestone. The well might be greatly improved
by enlarging and freshly cementing the collecting-chamber, as at present a large quantity of
water is lost, and some arrangement of a public nature might be made for raising the water
and conveying it to the city. This is now in the hands of the Fellahin of Silwan (Siloam),
who charge from one penny to sixpence per goat-skin for water delivered in the city, and are
much addicted to cheating by partly filling the skins with air. The water of Bir Eyub has
that peculiar taste which arises from the surface-drainage of the city being imperfectly stopped
out.'

The rising of the waters near the Bir Eytib, from a hole among the

heaps of ddbris, is held as a feast by the inhabitants of Jerusalem, who

may be seen walking beside the water, or sitting in the valley in numbers

on a bright winter day when the water is flowing. Men, women, and

children here picnic all day.

* The legend to which this well owes its name is probably that found in the Koran
(Sura xxxviii., verses 40, 41), which relates that Job was commanded by God to stamp with
his foot, whereupon a fountain sprang up miraculously for his refreshment. The same legend
accounts for the Tannur Eyub, near 'Ain Tabghah, on the Sea of GaUlee (Sheet VI. of the
Survey).

47—2

372 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Near this well an extraordinary unfinished aqueduct was explored by
Sir Charles Warren. The following is his account :

' Rock-cut Aqueduct. — Down the valley of the Kedron, and south of Siloam, there is the
Well of Job, or Joab, about which there are several curious traditions which connect it in
many ways with the ancient Temple. It has been examined, but to my mind there is yet a
mystery concealed there. It is a well loo feet deep, without appearance of connection with
any surface drains, and yet after heavy rains it fills up and overflows in a voluminous stream.

' South of this well, about 500 yards, there is a place called by the Arabs, " The Well of
the Steps," about which they had a tradition that there were steps leading up to the Well of
Joab. I had the ground opened, and at 12 foct below the surface came upon a large stone
which suddenly rolled away, revealing a staircase cut in the solid rock leading to a rock-cut
chamber and aqueduct, running north and south. It was filled up with silt or fine clay. We
cleared it out to the north for about 100 feet, and found it to be a great aqueduct 6 feet high,
and from 3 feet 6 inches to 4 feet broad. \\'hen the winter rains came on, a stream burst
through the silt, and, completely filling the passage, found its way up the steps and rolled
down the valley in an abundant stream, joining that from the Well of Joab. In April the
stream abated, and in May we were able to commence again ; and, working day and night,
we may expect to reach the city in six months. We are working with English barrows in
this aqueduct, much to the delight of the Arab workmen, who take a childish pleasure in
using these new toys. We clean out at present about 15 cubic yards in twenty-four hours.
Looking at this aqueduct from a sanitary point of view, we might suppose it built for carrj-ing
off the sewage of the city, and, from a military point of view, for carrying secretly off any
superabundant water to the nearest crevice in the rocks ; possibly it may have been used for
both purposes. Looking into the Bible history, we find in the Second Book of Chronicles
that Hezckiah stopped the brook that ran through the midst of the land, saying, " Why
should the King of Assyria come and find much water ?" Again, we find from another
account that the refuse from the burnt-offerings was carried down to the Kedron by a subter-
ranean channel ; and, as water would be wanted to run it down, it may be supposed that the
aqueduct in question might have been used for some such purpose. At any rate, it is highly
important that we should discover for what purpose; and we have the chance of its being a
due to the Altar of the Temple, and — which is of more practical value to the inhabitants of
Jerusalem — to the hidden springs of Hezekiah, which, if found, might again supply the city
with living water.

' Rock-cut passage at 'Ain el Lozeh. — The passage was followed up until 1 70 feet from Bir
Eydb, where another staircase was found, the steps of which are in very good preservation :
the passage was then continued to north for upwards of 100 feet, until 12th December, 1868,
when a heavy downpour of rain stopped the work, Bir EyCib overflowed, and the rock-cut
passage was filled up with a stream of water, which found vent by the two lower stair-
cases.

'The rainfall in December of 1S68 was much greater than usual; up to 15th of the
month 8703 inches had fallen, and it is interesting to find that the overflowing of Bir Eyiib
is due, not so much to a steady long-continuous rain, as to a sudden heavy fall.

' It is now nearly certain that the rock-cut passage does not communicate with Bir Eyflb,
as we are only 70 feet to south of it, and at least 70 feet to west. Since that time the work
has not been resumed until within the last few days, when I recommenced in order to

JERUSALEM. 373

obtain a correct idea of the probable expenditure that would be incurred in continuing the
work.

' It took a few days to get quit of the mud which lay in the passage, for all through the
summer there has been a little water trickling into the tunnel : on going on to north we had
not cleared away 3 feet before a large grotto was discovered, out of which the aqueduct
opened.

'Apparently this grotto was originally natural, but afterwards cut out so as to form a
receiving tank. It is 35 feet from east to west, and 20 feet from north to south, nearly oval
on plan ; it is about 45 feet in height, the roof being formed by the sides gradually approach-
ing each other. At the highest point there appears to be a shaft upwards, about 2 feet square,
covered by a white stone. The bottom of the passage by which we entered is about 9 (or
more) feet above the bottom of the cistern, so that there would always be a depth of 9 feet
of water retained in it. At the northern end are two aqueducts running into the cistern : the
upper and eastern one has its bottom 12 feet above the bottom of the outlet aqueduct; below
it (the upper) by 9 feet, and 6 feet to the west, is the lower aqueduct, which, after a few feet,
runs in under the upper one ; they both come from the same point (about 80 feet north-north-
east of the cistern), where they are in one, forming a passage 15 feet high, and nearly 6 feet
wide. This point is 90 feet due west of Bir Eyub.

' The way in which these two aqueducts run together is very curious : at the point where
it is one passage, there is a little staircase cut in the rock going up about 9 feet on to a land-
ing, where the upper aqueduct begins ; this is 3 feet 10 inches wide, and 5 feet 9 inches high ;
it is very well cut, the roof is curved a little, and it runs nearly straight to the cistern, falling
about 2 (?) feet in length ; about midway it is blocked up by a masonry wall 3 feet thick, and
composed of cut stones set in a hard black mortar, apparently mi.xed with oil. The lower
aqueduct starts from the same level as the bottom of the high passage. It is only about
3-5- feet high (apparently), and the top is about 6 feet below the bottom of upper aqueduct ;
for some distance it runs immediately under the upper one, and then, with some winding,
comes out to its west by 6 feet : just before it enters the cistern, it opens into a natural cleft
in the rock, which appears to be part of the original cavern. This cleft is nearly perpendicular,
and is about 4 feet wide, and over 15 feet high. Corporal MacKenzie went up it 48 feet to
north-west ; it then gets too narrow to be followed up.

' The rock throughout is a hard mezzeh, and the passages appear to have been cut out
with the chisel. The surface of the rock appears to be not less than 70 feet above the
aqueduct.

'This tunnel, as we have now examined it, extends from near Bir Eyiib to a point
1,800 feet down the Kedron valley : it has been judiciously cut under one side (the west
side) of the valley, so that, though it is from 70 to 90 feet under the surface of the rock, yet
the staircases being commenced to the east (nearer the bottom of the valley), have not to
descend by more than 40 to 50 feet. In the 1,800 feet we have cleared out, seven staircases
have been exposed : they are about 3 feet wide, and descend at about an angle of 35°. The
steps are about i foot in height, and the tread is about 15 inches : in some cases the steps
are much worn and broken. At the bottom of some of the staircases the aqueduct is
deepened a little, so as to form a shallow pool.

' In one place, between the third and fourth staircase, there is a branch tunnel leading
across towards the east side of the valley in a south-east direction : this was only followed for
30 feet.

374 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTL\E.

' It is apparent that this aqueduct was of considerable importance, for the labour in cutting
it so far below the surface must have been enormous. That it was for water I think there
can be no doubt, and probably for pure water.

' The cistern we have just found is similar in its construction to those found under
Robinson's Arch, and the aqueduct altogether has the same appearance as the rock-cut
aqueduct found there. The staircases, too, may have originally been used for bringing up
the chiijpings, but they appeared to be very much worn, as if they had been in constant
use.

' We have not as yet found there is any connection with Bir Eyub, and if we do find any
it will probably be a communication by which the water from the aqueduct flows into it, and
cut at a later period ; neither is there any appearance of its being connected with the Virgin's
Fount Aqueduct, for they differ in height and width, the tunnel we have found being nearly
twice as wide and very much higher ; also the Virgin's Fount Aqueduct winds very much
more than this one, and there are shafts instead of staircases.

' It would be a most important point to establish the direction from whence this great
aqueduct comes ; at present we do not know whether it comes down the Kedron Valley, the
Tyropaon, or by the valley from the Jaffa Gate.

' It is currently reported in the city that a Jewish blacksmith descended Bir Eyiib a few
years ago, when it was dry, and found a passage at bottom from whence a strong wind was
blowing. However this may be, it is evident that the man has some curious tradition about
the place, as he has been trying to buy the land over where we have lately found the grotto,
and the Fellahin of Siloam say they refused twelve napoleons for it This man sent a
messenger a short time ago to ask if we were going on with the clearing out of the great
aqueduct, and to say that if so he intended to raise the money to continue our work. He
probably had been reading the accounts of Jelal and Mejr ed Din.

^December 2\st, 1S69. — In continuing our work a staircase at an angle of about 45', and
90 feet on slope, has been found. The top is walled up with masonry : near the top another
staircase leads off towards Bir Eyub, branching into two. The rains have suddenly set in,
and if Bir EyCib overflows, this work will have to be stopped for the present.

' N.B. — It has been stated that the bottom of the cistern or grotto is 9 feet below bottom
of outflow aqueduct, but 9 feet is the depth to which we have sunk. The water in the cistern
prevents our sinking deeper, and the jumper cannot be driven on account of the large stones
met with.

' The great Rock- Cut Aqueduct south 0/ Bir Eyub. — Account of this was given up to
December 21st, 1869, when some rock-cut staircases were found 86 feet north of the cistern
or grotto.

' A shaft was now sunk at 75 feet north of the pool at Bir Eyub, and at a depth of 22 feet
came on head of staircase. The soil sunk through was black earth and stones, mi.xed with a
great quantity of red potsherds. The staircase was found to be closed at top by a masonry
wall, and on breaking through this, the steps, after going 6 feet to west, branch off north and
south. That to the north has again a branch staircase to east.

' The northern staircase has sbcty-seven steps. It descends 39 feet vertical, in 56 feet
horizontal, and ends abruptly, having never been finished At 16 feet 6 inches down this
staircase the branch to east commences, and falls (with twenty-two steps) 19 feet vertical in
27 feet horizontal ; it then turns to north, and falls 5 feet 10 inches in 10 feet 6 inches, and
ends abruptly.

JERUSALEM. 375

' The staircase to south (with fifty-four steps) falls 41 feet 5 inches in 72 feet, and ends in
the aqueduct, where the upper and lower join together, at about 86 feet north of the grotto.
These staircases were only partially filled up with mud and broken jars and pottery.

' There only now remained the continuation of lower aqueduct to north to examine.
This was continued for 148 feet, where it was also found to end abruptly, rock on all sides.
It is generally about 3 feet 7 inches wide and 6 feet high. It appears, then, that this great
work has never been completed. It is to be presumed that the great volume of water which
now issues from the aqueduct in the spring, enters through the rifts in the rocky sides of the
grotto. The reasons for the wall stopping up the upper aqueduct having been built are not
apparent. This aqueduct, leading into the grotto, is 86 feet long ; that is, 44 feet from grotto
to first wall, 4 feet thickness of wall, 32 feet to second wall, 3 feet thickness of wall, and 3 feet
to small steps.

' In the first wall at bottom a hole or duct was left 6f inches by 4 inches, and on the
northern side a stone plug to fit and 12 inches long was found in it.'

The identification of this site (Bir Eyub) with En Rogel is unsatis-
factory, for the latter was a spring, not a well, and it was close to the
Rock Zoheleth (i Kings i. 9), which is the present rock Z a h w e i 1 e h.
Thus it is more probable that En Rogel is the spring of the Virgin's
Fountain described above. (Cf. Joshua xv. 7.)

BiRKET MaMILLA.

This fine pool feeds the Hammam el Batrak, or so-called Pool of
Hezekiah, and also the north-west tower of the citadel, by an aqueduct.
It is perhaps the Beth Memel of the Talmud (Tal Bab Erubin 51 b,
Sanhed 24 a, Bereshith Rabba, ch. li.). Mejr ed Din says the Christians
called it Babila, and the Jews Beit M e 1 1 o. It is called Lac du
Patriarche in the ' Citez de Jherusalem,' and Eons Gihon Superior by
Marino Sanuto. It measures 316 feet east and west; the east wall
being 218 feet long, the west wall 200 feet. The buttresses at the
sides are of modern masonry. The average depth is 19 feet; there is
much rubbish at the bottom, and the pool leaks. A large cemetery
surrounds it, and as it collects only surface drainage the water is impure.
Thirty-eight feet from the lower end of the pool is a chamber, in which the
conduit narrows from 21 inches square to 9 inches square, and can be
closed by a stone to regulate the flow.

376 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

BiRKET Es Sultan.

An enormous reservoir, formed by clamming the valley (Wady
Rababch). It was constructed about 1170 a.d. by the German knights
(cf. 'Citez de Jherusalem'), and repaired later by Sultan Suleiman Ibn
Selim in 1520-66 A.u. A fine Arab fountain on the dam bears an inscrip-
tion of this reign. Rabbi Uri of Biel (1537-64) gives it the present name,
and it is mentioned in the Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre (No. 169) as
Lacus Germani. The pool measures 592 feet in length, and is about
220 feet wide and 40 feet deep.

The present low level aqueduct from the pools at Urt&s crosses W'ady
Rababeh above the Birket es Sultan (cf. Sheet XVII., Section B), and
following the southern slopes of the modern Sion, enters the Haram by the
viaduct of the Bab es Silsileh, carrying water to the fountain called El K4s
('The Cup'), north of the Aksa Mosque. This aqueduct is often out of
repair, but still carries water at times. It is supposed to be that mentioned
by Josephus as constructed by Pontius Pilate (18 Ant. iii. 2). An import-
ant discovery was, however, made by Sir C. Warren with regard to the
old line of this conduit. The following is his account :

' Aqueduct near the Ccenaculum. September, 1 867. — On the open ground on the western hill
which lies south of the city wall, we made an important discovery, viz., an ancient aqueduct,
at the south-east corner of the Ccenaculum, and about 50 feet north of the present aqueduct
— I have no doubt it must be the original aqueduct from Solomon's Pools to the Sanctuary.
We dug out the earth from a cut stone shaft 2 feet square, and at a depth of 16 feet was a
channel running from the west to the north-east, precisely similar in construction to the
passages under the Triple Gate. It varies very much in size .; sometimes we could crawl on
hands and knees, then we had to creep sideways ; again, we lay on our backs and vsTiggled
along, but still it was always large enough for a man of ordinary dimensions. In parts built
of masonry, in parts cut out of solid rock, it is generally of a semi-cylindrical shape ; but in
many parts it has the peculiar shoulders which I have only seen under the Triple Gateway,
but which have been noticed by Mr. Eaton, in the channel leading towards Tekoah. To the
north-east we traced the channel for 250 feet, until we were stopped by a shaft which was
filled with earth ; to the west we traced it for 200 feet, till it was stopped in the same manner.
In part of this passage we could stand upright, it being 10 or 12 feet high, with the remains
of two sets of stones for covering, as shown in M. Piazzi Smyth's work on the Great Pyramid,
the stones at the sides being of great size — 12 feet by 6 feet. This channel is evidently of
ancient construction. It is built in lengths, as though the work had been commenced at
several points, and had not been directed correctly. The plaster is in good preservation.

'The aqueduct was traced for 700 feet, and at either end it was found to be crossed and

JERUSALEM. 377

used by the present low level aqueduct, it being at the same level, but the entrances are much
farther up the hill, on account of the cutting being so deep, in one place 29 feet below the
present surface.

' It is apparent that the builder of the present low-level aqueduct made use of the origina
one wherever it was convenient.'

BiR EL YEiiuDiYEn OR Siiem'on es SaddIk.

This well is so-called because it is immediately near the traditional
tomb of Simon the Just, of which a plan has been now made. This tomb
is in Wady el Joz, east of the Nablus road. It is mentioned in Finn's
' Byeways,' and the annual visit paid to it by the Jerusalem Jews is
there noticed. ' Simon the high priest, the son of Onias (Ecclus. 1. i),
was one of the famous successors of Ezra, and chief of the "Great
Sanhedrin." ' He is said to have gone to Antipatris to meet Alexander
the Great (Tal. Bab. Yoma, 69 ci), and was high priest for forty years.
The beautiful story of his last entrance into the Holy of Holies, when
the white apparition failed to meet him as usual, is well known. He
ranks among the inost venerated of Jewish worthies. Curiously enough,
Josephus gives the name of Jaddua instead of Simon, as that of the high
priest at the time of Alexander's visit to Jerusalem.

The tomb is rock-cut, but a wall has been built in modern times across
the entrance to the porch, and an iron door put up, with a small barred
window on one side. This door is kept locked, and the key was obtained
from the Spanish Jews through the kindness of Dr. Chaplin.

The fa9ade is carefully white-washed ; within is the antechamber,
2\ feet below the present surface of the outer ground. A small cistern
is cut in the rock bench to the right, and a channel leads thence, round
the walls of the next inmost chamber (No. 2), to a hole in the wall com-
municating with another chamber (No. 4), which was originally a tomb,
with three loctdi under anosolia, but is now used as a cistern with a depth
of some 3 feet of water. There is no spring, but the surface-water from
the rocks is collected in this manner. The second chamber (No. 2) has
a single grave on the east (No. 3), and an entrance on the west to the
fourth chamber (No. 5) : the level is 2^ feet below the antechamber.
The fourth chamber has two loculi, that on the north being the supposed

378

THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

tomb of Eliczer, son of Simon the Just, that on the south the grave of
his servant. A small wooden table stood in this chamber. On the west
a door leads to the furthest chamber (No. 6), where is the grave of Simon
himself on the south side. It is apparently only a bench built up of small
rough stones ; but these may cover a real rock-cut sarcophagus. A large
vessel of oil was placed on it, in which floated many lighted wicks. I
noticed a great many small stones piled in the locidus of Eliezer, probably
memorials of visits to the shrine, like the Jlleskd/icd of the Moslem
peasantry.

F.,..f....f

Sectwri oTvAM C
I

The Jews also show some 200 yards to eastwards a quarry facing
northwards. This they believe was the school and synagogue where
Simon the just used to teach and pray. The tradition has, however,
probably little or no value.

The tradition of Simon's tomb is at least three and-a-half centuries
old ; but there is, so far as I know, no mention of it in medieeval Jewish
travels before the year 1537 .\.d., when it is noticed in the Jichus ha
Aboth.

JERUSALEM.

579

Deir es Salic (the Monastery of the Cross).

The old Georgian Church, said to date from the fifth century, was
found standing by the Crusaders. The tradition is to the effect that the
tree of the Cross, concerning which there are innumerable mediaeval
legends, grew here from the time of Adam, and was watered by Noah,
David, and Solomon. The site of its growth is shown in a little chamber
behind the north apse. The church consists of three bays, a transept
with a fine dome, and a chancel with three apses, built for the Eastern
rite, with walls dividing the apses. On the south wall of the central apse
a grciffita was found in 1873, in red paint, reading Beaice a Jehan,

with date 1493 a.d. This part of the church is therefore older than the
restorations of the year 1644 a.d. The floor of the church is paved with
mosaic, which has in places been mended with good fayence work. The
designs are curious, including the cock and other quaint animals. The
piers and walls are painted and hung with pictures of Georgian origin, not
unlike the frescoes of Kasr Hajlah (Sheet XVIII.), though probably later
than the latter. The place now belongs to the Greeks, and there is a
seminary in the monastery, which has a conspicuous belfry and a good
library. The best MSS. from Mar Saba have lately been brought to
this library. On the screen of the nave is a curious painting on wood,
giving the whole history of the tree of the Cross.
Visited 1873 and 1881.

48—2

38o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

HaKK ED DUMM.

There is n very fim^ rock-cut and masonry vault at this place, 30 feet
long, 20 f<;et wide, and 34 feet high, with two piers of drafted masonry
with a rustic boss. The stones are of moderate dimensions and very
white ; the top course is arched out to support the roof, which is groined
and of rubble. This vaulted building resembles Crusading work.

The vault is now called Aceldama, and in the twelfth century
Chaudemar was apparently its name, a corruption, as is the present
name, of the Hebrew. The lower part of the vault is a great rock-cut
trench. Tombs exist in the sides. The vault is the vestibule to a series
of tombs now choked up. There are crosses and Armenian inscriptions
on the west wall.

Immediately west is a quarried scarp covered with rude crosses, cut
on the rock. There are four rows, some 30 or 40 crosses in all. The
form of the cross is Latin.

Immediately east of Ilakk ed Dumm is the cave called
!•" c r d u s e r R u m ; it is some 35 feet high, and 10 by 6.', yards area.

El HeidiiemIveii (Jeremiah's Grotto).

The identification of this site with Calvary is mentioned in a separate
paper, and the; cliff" described. A modern enclosure has been walled
in on the south against the face of the cliff, and within this is the entrance
to a cavern, with an inner circular chamber about 100 feet in diameter,
the roof supported by a pillar. The tombs of Sultan Ibrahim and of
Baruh ed Din are here shown, and the caverns are now in charge of
the Moslems. They were formerly inhabited by an order of derwishes.
Other caverns are entered from the courtyard. The whole system
appears originally to have formed part of the Cotton Grotto, or great
quarries under the city east of the Damascus Gate. The great fos.se,
which separates the knoll of Jeremiah's Grotto from the cliff of the
Cotton Grotto, is 500 feet wide. It was no doubt originally formed in
quarrying the Temple stones, and probably enlarged when the third wall
was built. Two smaller caves higher up the cliff are now left unap-
proachable.

JERUSALEM.

381

The remains on the knoll 300 yards west of Jeremiah's Grotto, and
west of the main north road, are also mentioned in connection with the
ancient tomb there found, which may perhaps be identified with the Holy
Sepulchre. The remains of the old Church of St. Stephen at this spot
require, however, a special notice, as it is the site of one of the oldest
Christian buildings near Jerusalem.

The site in question is an irregular rock plateau rising about five feet
above the surrounding surface, and apparently scarped on all sides. The
scarp is indeed plainly traceable, and evidendy artificial, except towards

the south-east. The area is about 60 yards either way. The top of the
plateau is sown with corn, and has a few olive-trees. At the south-west
corner a part of the rock rises in a kind of natural wall about 5 feet
hio-her than the rest. A modern cottage is built against this scarp on the
east face of it, with a paved court in front. To the south of the cottage
is a small cistern, and a cave in the south scarp now closed.

The tomb, specially described on another page, is at the south-east
angle of the plateau (marked A). In the north-east corner is a cistern
measuring 1 5 feet by 20 feet, with a manhole in the roof, and an entrance

382

THE SUR VE V OE WESTERN PALESTINE.

on the east, through a passage lo feet long, 3 feet wide, with three steps-
This passage was once closed by a door (marked cistern C). To the
west of this the scarp projects northwards, and a small chamber (marked D)
is cut in thi' cast f>icr. It measures 10 feet north and south by 7 feet east
and west, and is 4 or 5 feet high. The door is 2 feet wide and 3 {cax
high.

In the drystone wall of the courtyard of the cottage several fragments
of mouldings are built in. One is a piece of a cornice with cantilevers
and rosettes rudely executed and resembling Byzantine work. Marble
tessem were also found here, and square stone slabs about 6 inches side,

CCALt

built diagonally (as in the optis reticulatnm) into a curved wall in front of
the cottage on the east. This wall was destroyed, and the slabs used to
pave the courtyard of the cottage. In the south scarp a small e.xcavation
was found — a niche 3 feet 4 inches high, 4 feet 6 inches wide, 2 feet
7 inches to the back, having a smaller recess about 2 feet across in its
back wall. A skull is .said to have been found in this recess when the
scarp was uncovered.

Joscphus gives the distance of the Tomb of Helena, Queen of
Adiabene, as being three stadia from the Women's Towers (2 Ant. iv. 3 ;

JERUSALEM.

383

5 Wars ii. 2). There can be little doubt that the tomb in question is that
now commonly called the Tomb of the Kings, and if a measurement of
three stadia be made on the Ordnance Survey from that sepulchre south-
wards along the main road, it will be found to reach to the rocky plateau
just described. The scarps may thus be very probably regarded as those
on which the wall of Agrippa stood about 41 a.u., and the Women's
Towers were perhaps situated at this point, guarding the north gate of the
ancient wall.

''^h,

JERUSALEM.

IN 1187 AD. /^

"Pradiixxmat Norriej uvZa&n

TjoaiaPadruirclui

j5«wiJ<»ii mil

AperRULmzs '^pfu^

The remains found on the plateau are possibly those of the old Church
of St. Stephen, founded by the Empress Eudoxia about the year 460 a.d.
It was about a stadium from the north wall, as existing in her time
(Evagrius, Hist. Eccles. i. 22). The empress was buried in or near this
church, according to the same authority. The building was found by the
Crusaders in ruins (Sa;wulf). In the Citez de Jherusalem the Monastery

384 THE PURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

of St. Stephen is distinctly described as being on the right of one entering
the north gate, the Asnerie being to the left. If the roads remain un-
changed this would point to the site now being noticed as that of the
Church of St. Stephen. It is, however, remarkable that no traces of
Crusading work remain on this site, but thai a Crusading church does
exist, as described later, north-east of the plateau of rock.

The road bifurcates on leaving the Damascus Gate, and here —
1 20 yards outside the gate and south of the rock plateau above described
— a tomb was discovered in 1875, containing a sarcophagus of great size
— 8 feet long by 3 feet high. The tomb appears to be older than the
sarcophagus, which could not have been got in through the door, and
may have been lowered through the hole in the roof of the chamber.
The sepulchre consists of two chambers, which seem to have been
originally distinct tombs with doors to the east. The north chamber,
containing the sarcophagus, has an antechamber on the east containing a
loaiius on the south side : the chamber itself has three loculi under
arcosolia. The southern chamber, reached by a hole in the back of the
loculiis on the south side of the former tomb, has also three loadi. The
north loculus in the southern chamber has slabs at the bottom, which
when raised disclosed a sunken chamber with three parallel loculi. On
the south of the southern chamber is a rude cave like a cistern. The
rock is at this place covered with about twelve feet of soil and rubbish.
The hole in the roof of the northern chamber was carefully closed with
masonry, as were the doors of the chambers. The southern chamber was
the first discovered, and was entered through its roof, where were two
holes covered by stone slabs.

These tombs might perhaps belong to the later Jewish period, but
they so closely resemble the Christian tombs round Jerusalem that they
may perhaps be better referred to the Byzantine period. Their arrange-
ment is different from that of the old tomb (A) in the rock-scarp further
north. The sarcophagus is like those used by Romans and Byzantines
in Syria. The Crusaders seem to have used lead or wooden coffins.
Thus, though the sarcophagus is evidence of a secondary interment in
this sepulchre, no great difference of date need be supposed between the
times of the original tomb and the later interment, and it is probable that

JERUSALEM.

3S5

both would be Christian, as the Christians do not appear to have used
Jewish tombs.

It has been suggested that the sarcophagus was that of the Empress
Eudoxia, buried near St. Stephen's Church ; and there is nothing to
contradict such a conjecture, although no inscription was found on the
sarcophagus, which was broken by the Turks in attempting to remove it.
The tomb was partly destroyed also, and has now been converted into a
cistern.

V. .. f. . . .9

SccUons A3.& CD of Sarcophagus ■'^i

Section CM.

Just west of El Heidhemiyeh the remains of the twelfth century
Asnerie were explored in October, 1S73, and further opened up in May,

1875.

Entering the gate in the north-west corner of the garden, west of the
cliff, a scarp of rock is found running east and facing south (level of top
2,520). In this, towards the west, is a rock-cut chamber which runs in
northwards. East of this are cuttings on the scarp which would seem
to have been connected with piers supporting vaults.

The chamber is double, and has a double door. The right-hand, or

386 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

eastern part, contains three loculi, 8 feet 2 inches in length. This part is
7 feet high. On the cast wall two crosses are painted in red, each with
the letters A and Q either side. The cross is of the Latin form. The
western chamber is 6 feet 2 inches by 1 1 feet 8 inches ; the latter measure
north and south. A great quantity of bones were found in this chamber.

South of this tomb is the cistern marked on the Ordnance Survey,
which appears to be very extensive, and is cut in rock. Near it stone
piers were discovered by excavation in 1S73. ^he stones were two to
three feet in length, well dressed ; on one a mason's mark —

occurs, leaving no doubt that the masonry is of Crusading period.
The stone has the diagonal dressing found on twelfth century work in
Palestine. A marble capital and the base of a small attached column
were found, with a pillar shaft i^ feet thick.

About 40 paces south of the gate by which the plot of ground is
entered, the excavations in 1875 laid bare the remains of a building, viz.,
a wall of masonry, resembling that described above, running north, with
a second at right angles running east. The wall running north extended
33 feet 6 inches, and ended apparently at a gateway. From this wall,
6\ feet south of the gateway, a cross wall ran east. The south wall
running east from the angle was laid bare for about 36 feet. Both walls
were 6 feet 6 inches thick.

Inside the southern wall are a row of stone mangers, each i foot
9 inches broad ; the stone walls between them are 4 inches thick ; they
measure 2^ feet north and south at the top, and i foot 10 inches at the
bottom, being 8 inches deep, and having a shelving front, whilst the back
is formed by the southern wall of the building.

The scarps on the north and east show that this building probably
covered an area of about 1 50 feet side. The position agrees with that
ascribed in the ' Citez de Jherusalcm ' (1187 a.d.) to the Asnerie, or Inn
of the Knights Hospitallers, which was in use after the conquest of
Jerusalem by Saladin.

Explored October, 1872; 24th May, 1875.

JERUSALEM.

387

About 500 feet north-west of the Asnerie a Crusading Chapel, with
surrounding chambers and a vault on the east containing graves, was
excavated in 1882. North of the chapel lies a kind of trough cut out of
a single stone 3 feet in diameter, 3 feet high, the hollow interior being
2^ feet deep, and the same in diameter. The trough is rounded off

\^%

j| . ,v,

,„ „ ..,.,„. , , ■ ,

Va. all

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"■^ •'

Va.vL,lt

it--' ■ ^•■ ■■)

eruig

pffrmi. A rcct r s

a ^ S to ts ic (?w4

Va. u. It

below. It seems possibly to have been the font of the chapel, and to
have stood on the low pillar found in the chapel near the west end. The
little Moslem shrine of Sad and Saideh, north-west of the chapel, is built
partly of Crusading materials ; and outside the Mihrab the projection of
the south wall rests on a defaced sculpture of an angel's head, in mediaeval
style, probably taken from the church.

The following are the accounts sent home in 1882.

49-

38S THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

'I.

'January \%lli, 18S2.

'The church of which I sent a plan by last mail has been further excavated, and an
interesting piece of painting brought to light. A slab of fine limestone 20 inches by 4 feet
5 inches has on it a simple cornice, once apparently gilt, and beneath this are the figures
of the twelve Apostles, each surrounded by a sort of canopy; they stand six each
side of a central figure of the throned Christ. The figures are rather stiffly drawn,
and have long robes. The slab has on the top surface the diagonal dressing used by the
Crusaders.

' Only a few courses of the walls of the church are standing ; they have been plastered
inside, and the plaster was painted. I found a mason's mark on one stone, and others have
the diagonal dressing. North of the church are found vaults with pointed rubble arches.
The whole is evidently of the Crusading period. We are going to-day to take a tracing of
the painted tablet, which will be sent home as soon as possible. The position of the church
precludes the idea that it is that of St. Stephen, built in the fifth century. It seems to have
been rather a chapel adjoining the Asnerie or Hospitallers' Stable, which I was able to identify
in 1873 with certain ruins close to the newly found church on the south.

' C. R. C

'Jerusalem, February i^th, 1SS2.

' The excavations at the newly discovered church outside the Damascus Gate are still in
l)rogress, but have been greatly impeded by the recent rains and falls of snow. The work has
been done principally at the ends of the church, that is to say, towards the east and towards
the west of the building. The outer surface of the east wall of the church — that in which the
apse is built — has been laid bare. Parallel to this has been discovered one wall of a second
building, perhaps a convent in connection with the church. The passage left between
the two buildings is only 3 feet 4 inches in breadth, and the stones of the convent
have a remarkably clean and new appearance, as if the wall had only been recently
constructed. This is no doubt due to the protection which it received from the church
immediately in front of it Moreover, the passage between the two may very possibly
have been covered in, and an additional protection thus afforded to the surface of the
stone.

' The north wall of the convent has also been laid bare for a distance of some 30 feet, but
the eastern extremity has not yet been reached. It is built of larger blocks of stone and more
solidly, being no doubt an outer wall, and appears to have been exposed to the weather
before having been covered in by the earth which has just been removed.

' The workmen say that they have discovered a cistern in the passage between the church
and the convent It may, perhaps, exist, but yesterday while examining the place by ourselves
we were unable to find the mouth.

'A new door has also been discovered at the south-east corner of the church. It opens
out towards the east, and is situated between the apse and the south wall. There is a fresco
inside under the doorstep, but to see this and the door properly further excavation is
necessary.

JERUSALEM.

389

' At the west end of the church the ground outside the main
been paved with flag-stones to a distance of eight or nine feet from
entering the paving extends to the entrance to a tomb, and at
this point an inscription has recently been discovered.

'Further again to the west, at a distance of 31 feet from the
church, a wall has been found running north and south. The
extremities of this wall have not yet been laid bare, and its con-
nection with the main building is not clear.

' The point which has excited most interest is the inscription
referred to above. It is cut in one of the flag-stones (measuring
23 inches by 16 inches) over the tomb. The letters are of the
well-known uncial forms, and in some instances are well cut.
The surface of the stone is, however, much worn, so that in
places it is very difficult to distinguish artificial and time-worn
grooves. I send a copy of the inscription traced from a squeeze,
and have shown as far as possible the distinction between marks
certainly intentional and others which are doubtful.

' As yet no one has been able to suggest a translation. In the
first fine the word ^GPOY is very distinct. Dr. Chaplin thinks
that the marks shown in outline adjoining the letter (J) may be
a contraction for XPICTO'I>> making the whole word
XPICTO<I>€ POY, or Christopher. In the second line the
only doubtful letter is the Ai which has been read A- However,
it seems to me that a horizontal stroke is visible, although not
nearly so plain as the rest of the letter. As regards the third and
fourth fine, there is little difference of opinion, but below the
word OCTA ^re a number of marks in which it is almost im-
possible to distinguish those which are time-worn from those which
are artificial.

' It has been suggested that we have only recovered a part of
the inscription, the stone on which it is cut having formed portion
of a block employed previously for some other purpose, and that
Vk'e have lost the right half or the left half of each line. An
examination on the spot shows, however, that this is improb-
able.

' The flag-stone is in situ, above a tomb — a very natural position
for a tomb-stone. It is close to the door of the church, and the
workmen would not be likely to disfigure the floor in such a place
with a previously used stone, when a new one might be so easily
obtained. Moreover, the tracing of the squeeze shows that the
present inscription could nowhere be cut through at right angles
to the lines without dividing some of the letters. If the inscription
had been originally longer it is unlikely that it could have been
cut in two without thus dividing the letters, but along each side
stands there is no trace of any such prolongation of the lines. In

entrance proves to have
the wall. To the left on

J>'f^

of the stone as it now
all probability we have

390 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

JERUSALEM.

391

before us the whole inscription, and it only remains to decipher the contractions which it no
doubt contains.

' The enterprising owner of the church intends to continue his excavations. Unfortunately
the ground outside the south wall does not belong to him, otherwise he might have found
chambers and tombs similar to those on the north. He intends, however, to work in an
east and west direction, and to uncover the walls as far as he is allowed to do so by his
neighbours.

'A. M. Mantell, Lieutenant R.E.'

Note. — The word ^ejou suggests that we have here the end of the usual funerary inscrip-
tion, Mfij^a ^/aptgou. (See under head Wady Rababeh). — C. R. C.

Scale.
300 400

BOO/eot

A further note on this church was sent by the Rev. S. Merril, in
1883 ('Quarterly Statement,' p, 23S). It appears that there was a
chamber with a mosaic pavement east of the chapel. The letters 96 OY
were legible in the mosaic. A water channel cut in rock, reaching -Xil
feet east and west, was found north of the mosaic floor, and seems to be
older than the building. It is 2\ feet deep, 20 inches wide at the top,
and 12 inches at the bottom. It turns north, and runs for some 20 feet.
There are three large cisterns under the buildings.

39* THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTIXE.

Another tomb was found in the north-west corner of the chamber,
with mosaic floor about 6 feet below the floor. It is lo feet long by 9
feet wide with a doorway 2 feet wide, and steps on the north-east. On
the east wall a cross is cut in relief, 22 inches long by 13 inches wide.

On the left of the cross are letters deeply cut,
JERUSALEM. j^^(j r [nchcs lottg, giving the initials KX ('the

Inscription

VuPs1d'/,1:i%'msscus''o^^ Lord Christ '). The lonili are 2 feet deep in the

tomb, which resembles that planned by Lieutenant
Mantell.

About 200 yards north of the Asnerie, close
to Captain Wilson's Excavation No. 2, is a
curious tomb. It is 20 yards south-east from a
house, with cistern No. 81 to the south, and
another cistern to the east.

(€POY

-NGAIA
O P C C

5S^ » - " " "

\3"^\- 3 I A scarp 7 feet high is here laid bare, running

• tiJi \ for 25 feet north and south. At the north-west

corner it turns east, and at the south end it

runs west, and was traced 8 feet. A plastered cistern has been built

against the north face of the scarp. A building seems to have stood on

the top, with a tesselated pavement visible in two places.

Two rock-cut tombs exist in the scarp, which have their entrance from
the west, and shafts reaching up to the surface of the ground. The
southern tomb has two locttli, one each side, and a third at its east end
directed north and south. The loculi at the side are 5 feet 10 inches by
I foot 7 inches, and i foot 5 inches deep. There is an arcosolium over
each. The end loculus is 4 feet 7 inches long, i foot 2 inches wide.

The northern tomb has only two loculi, one at the end being 3 feet
7 inches long.

The shafts arc 5 feet 10 inches long, 2 feet across, and the height to
the top of the shaft from the floor of the tomb is 7 feet 6 inches.

I lalf way up the shafts, which are open on the west side, there are two
grooves (one in each shaft), 2 feet i inch above the arcosoUa ; they are
4 inches deep and high. Into these slabs of stone fitted, dividing the
shaft into two tiers. Some of the slabs were found near.

The loculi were full of bones and powdered bone-dust, pronounced by
Dr. Chaplin to be ancient.

JERUSALEM. 393

Five feet lo inches north of the north tomb is a niche or excavation,
as though for an unfinished tomb.

These tombs resemble that described above near the Asnerie, and
in common with all the rock- sunk tombs having shafts to the surface, may
perhaps be ascribed to Christian times. The scarp may have been cut at
a later period, laying open the west end of the chamber originally reached
only from above. The building over the tombs may also be later.

Immediately south of these tombs is the tank, the north wall of which
is formed of four very large stones, resembling those of the Haram walls.
Sir Charles Wilson's Excavation No. 2, at this spot, showed the stones
to be probably not in situ ; and on digging a trench across the line on the
west no further continuation of the line of masonry could be found. The
stones have smooth faces, and drafts 5 inches wide and \ inch deep. The
three eastern stones measure about 7^ feet, 5 feet and 1 1 feet 9 inches
respectively in length.

Further west (as marked on the Ordnance Survey) was another line,
consisting of five stones resting on the rock, which has not, however, been
cut to receive them. This group was carefully examined by Sir Charles
Wilson, his Excavation No. 3 determining that the stones were under-
pinned with small ones, and perhaps not in situ. The row could be
traced further west, and several large stones were scattered near in front
of the line. The four stones excavated had together a length of 2 1 feet.
The height of the course was 4 feet 4 inches ; the drafts were 3 to 4 inches
broad ; the faces were left rough, projecting sometimes 6 inches.

These stones have since been destroyed. Together with the first
group, there can be litde doubt that they once belonged to the wall of
Agrippa, but there was doubt as to their being in situ, as they seem to
have been re-used.

Visited October, 1872.

The Scarp on the (Modern) Sion Hill.

H u m m a m T li b a r 1 y a (or D a u d). — The rock scarp of Jerusalem
(' Quarterly Statement,' October, 1872, p. 169 ; January, 1875, P- 7 ;
April, 1875, P- Si ; Ordnance Survey Notes, p. 61) was here excavated
by Mr. Maudslay in 1874-5.

394 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Corner Tozocr. — The angle of the scarp is occupied by a square rock
foundation, intended for a tower, and facing approximately north and
south. The top of the scarp is at a level 2,483 above the sea. The
tower foundation measures 48 feet north and south by 50 east and west,
and is 20 feet high on the west edge of the scarp. In front of it on this
side is a flat platform of rock 20 to 25 feet broad. Rock-cut steps lead
up eastwards from this along the southern face of the tower scarp. The
platform ends in another scarp on the west, where the rock is 1 2 to 20
feet lower.

JVesi Scarp. — The scarp runs northwards from the tower, with an
average height of 22 feet. It was traced for over 100 feet, and points
towards the present south-west corner of the city wall. In the ilat surface
of this part of the scarp a cistern 1 2 feet deep and 1 2 feet diameter is cut
just north of the tower, and further north is a small rock-cut trough.
Fragments of mosaic pavement were found during the excavations in
this part. At the north end of the e.xcavation is a rock buttress 8 feet
by 4 feet. There were also many stones 3 to 4 feet long, with deep
marginal drafts and dressed faces ; they appeared to have fallen from
above. In one was a round-headed loop-hole 6 inches diameter outside,
I foot inside. These stones Mr. Maudslay built up, in 1874, into the
wall marked ' Modern wall of ancient masonry.'

The platform in front of this northern part of the scarp is under the
cemetery of the Greek Catholics, and was therefore not traced.

Sozith Scarp. — From the corner tower the wall of rock runs south
for 45 feet, and then turns through an angle of some 40° east, and runs
for no yards in the direction shown on the plan. Its top is about the
level of that of the tower for 115 feet, and then rises to the level 2,485,
or 4 feet higher. At the eastern end the bottom of the scarp is at a
level 2,435, giving it a total height of 50 feet for over 150 feet along
the line.

The scarp appears to have a width of about 30 feet, and the rock
shelves down on the inner or northern side, at least in one part, where the
foundations of a room were sunk 14 feet lower than the level of the south
front of the scarp before reaching the rock. This point was 100 feet from
the angle. (A cistern may, however, exist here.)

Behind the corner tower there is now a large cistern In the scarp

^5-"''

.JW'--'

JERUSALEM. 395

40 feet by 15 feet and 8 feet deep. There are two others, as shown on
the plan, 1 2 feet and 8 feet deep behind the large one, which latter was
made by Mr. Maudslay by blowing three small ones into one. All these
cisterns are rock-cut, but the rock was found to shelve down on the inside
behind {i.e. east of) the tower to about the same level mentioned in the
preceding paragraph. The scarp was therefore a broad wall of rock
standing up 10 to 15 feet above the outer platform, and perhaps 14 feet
above the inside surface, with an average width of 30 feet.

In front of the south scarp near the corner there is a chamber, now a
laundry, with a floor of rock on a level 2,472, or about 5 feet above that
of the outer platform. The face of the scarp forms one wall of the
laundry, and in this is a trough with an arcosoliuvi above like a loculus,
and by it are two small mangers in rock. (Compare K h. D us trey,
Sheet v., Section B.)

At 115 feet from the corner the scarp rises vertically 4 feet higher, at
which point a rock-buttress projects 5 feet from the scarp. A cistern
1 2 feet deep was found behind this buttress, and another masonry cistern,
now broken to pieces, was at one time built in front of the scarp and lined
with hard reddish cement. This seems to be later work.

The platform outside the corner tower was traced southwards, and
found to be 20 feet wide at the angle. It runs in towards the scarp at the
laundry. A new cistern was here found to be built just at the edge of the
platform.

At a point about 1 70 feet from the angle the rock-scarp was found to
be 26 feet high, and had a platform 20 feet wide outside. It seems,
therefore, that the platform follows the course of the scarp up to this
point, when it terminates, and a step occurs of 7 feet down, the total
height of the scarp being immediately afterwards 33 to 35 feet.

In front of the termination of the outer platform a ditch was found.
It was about 30 feet wide, the rock outside being on the same level with
the platform. This ditch may perhaps run along the whole face of the
work, but it was not followed out. It appears to slope down eastwards
or drop suddenly, for at the far end of the scarp — no yards from the
angle — the total height of the rock-wall is 45 feet.

During the excavations along the southern scarp stones were found,
some being voussoirs of large semicircular arches. Bases about i.^ feet

50—2

396 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

diameter were also found, and corbel stones. Also a tombstone with an
inscription in Qo\k\\cz\\7!S2iC\.&x?,: Hie rcquiescit Jolts dc Valencinis. Stones
appear to have been quarried out from the ditch in front of the outer plat-
form, the marks of the quarrying still remaining.

At the further or south-eastern end of the scarp there appears to have
been a tower, the top of the tower-scarp being at a level 2,473, o^" 3^ feet
above the bottom of the scarp. The tower projected 25 feet. A flight
of steps (explored by Sir Charles Wilson) led up the face of the scarp
towards this tower. Sir Charles Warren and Mr. Maudslay found them
to reach the rock 2>1 feet below the top of the scarp. There are two
flights, the upper of 9 steps, the lower of 27, or 36 in all, with a total
rise of 32 feet, the breadth of the flight being about 4 feet, and the length,
including the landing, 45 feet.

The scarp in this part forms the boundary of the Protestant cemetery,
which has a level 2,470 at the surface, and a depth of over 35 feet of soil,
all composed of cidbris.

At the top of the flight of steps above described there are two cisterns
to which the name H u m m a m T u b a r i y a is given. They are cut in
rock, with steps on the floors, having 6 feet of water at the back. The
roofs are of masonry — a barrel vault, with narrow keystones and broad
haunch stones. The masonry is of moderate size and very well cut, not
drafted. The cisterns are respectively 10 feet by 6 feet and 10 feet by
4 feet.

East Scarp. — Mr. Maudslay's excavations were not pushed further
than the eastern cemetery wall, which runs out of the scarp of the second
tower. Beyond this point the scarp is covered up with rubbish for about
70 feet, and then re-appears, running north-east and rudely cut. There
are three cave-entrances in it in this part, leading into small rough caves
explored in 1872.

There appears to be a ditch in this part 45 feet wide. Its depth is
unknown, as it is filled in with soil and debris. The opposite or outer
side is formed by a rock counter-scarp, the level of the top being 2,480, or
20 feet lower than the scarp, which is 2,500. In this counter-scarp there
is a small cistern 9 feet deep, lined with cement. A second cistern, now
filled up, exists close by.

Rcsumd. — The scarp is thus seen to extend over 800 feet, as at

JERUSALEM. 397

present traced, and to run round three sides of a trapezoid. It appears to
have two towers 370 feet apart, and perhaps one intermediate. The
greatest sheer height is 45 feet. In the neighbourhood of the angle there
is an outer platform averaging 20 feet in width, and 10 to 15 feet below
the top of the scarp.

There is also in one part a ditch 30 feet wide and 7 feet deep in front
of the outer platform.

The scarp is, near the angle, about 30 feet wide, and slopes down on
the inside.

There are altogether 18 cisterns, which supplied the scarp buildings
with water, and two flights of stairs, one in connection with each tower.

The direction of the scarp, east of the Protestant cemetery, is not fully
explored. On the west the scarp runs in the continuation of the line of
the modern west city wall.

The masonry which stood above the scarp seems possibly to be of
Crusading origin (judging from the loophole), and is connected with
Crusading remains, i.e. the tombstone.*

Visited July, 1872, January, 1875. Surveyed by a traverse with chain
and 5 inch theodolite and compass.

Jebel Deir Abu Tor (' Mountain of the Monastery of the
Father of the Bull').

The hill south of Wady Rababeh, called by Christians since the four-
teenth century 'the Hill of Evil Council,' and supposed to have been the
site of the country house of Caiaphas, where Judas plotted to betray
Christ. The little modern shrine of Abu Tor ('the Father of the
Bull '), with a large solitary tree south of it, possibly marks the site of an
old monastery of St. Mark. It is now consecrated to Sheikh Ahmed
eth Thoreh, who is said to have accompanied Saladin riding on a bull.
(See Name Lists, jd. 318.)

* It has been suggested by Captain Conder that the rock-cut ditch outside this scarp is
the 'gutter' mentioned in connection with David's siege of the Upper City (2 Sam. v. 8).
The Rev. F. W. Birch, however, supposes this gutter to be Warren's shaft to the Virgin's
Pool, as he adheres to the view that the City of David was south of the Temple.

39S THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.

Jebel et Tor (the Mount of Olives).

The principal places of interest on the mountain are : the Church of
the Ascension, the Cave of St. Pelagia, the Pater Noster Chapel, the
Bcthphage Chapel, the Tomb of the Virgin, Gethsemane, and the
Grotto of the Agony, with the remains found near the shrine of Sheikh
Sclman el Farsi, and the Russian House, south-east of the village of
et Tor. The so-called Tombs of the Prophets, on the south-western
slope of the hill, also require notice.

The Church of the Ascension is now a small chapel inside an
enclosure of irregular polygonal form, measuring about 40 feet north
and south by 30 east and west. This enclosure was built probably as
late as the seventeenth century ; and a minaret stands close beside the
west entrance, being one of the most conspicuous objects on the
mountain. The site is now in possession of the Moslems, but all
Christian sects are admitted on certain days to perform mass in the
chapel.

The site of the Ascension was placed in the fourth century on the
present spot — the top of Olivet ; and a basilica was here erected by
Constantine. It appears to have been circular, and of great size. In
680 A.D. Arculphus g