Full text of "Sutherland and the Reay country: history, antiquities, folklore, topography, regiments, ecclesiastical records, poetry and music, etc"

See other formats

Google

This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project

to make the world's books discoverable online.

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject

to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover.

Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the

publisher to a library and finally to you.

Usage guidelines

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying.
We also ask that you:

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for
personal, non-commercial purposes.

+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help.

+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it.

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe.

About Google Book Search

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web

at |http: //books .google .com/I

■• o

rv^^.

^ )

-s^

) '•

^ '■; r- '^^ '

- V ''

/^. ' -'vj

Sutherland and the Kcav Country.

• r/

• ^'

I ^ . .' -'vJ

Sutherland and the Kcav Country.

SUTMERLAN D

AND THE

REAY COU NTRY;

HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, FOLKLORE, T0I»0(;RAPHV,
REGLMENTS, ECCLESLVSTICAL RECORDS,
POETRY AND MUSIC, ETC.

WITH NUMEROUS rOKTKAlTS ASD ILLUSTKAT10.<S

EDITED IJV

Rev. Adaa Gunn, a. a.
John A\ac k a y.

GLASGOW:
JOHN MACKAY, '» CELTIC MONTHLY' OFFICE,
9 BLYTHSWOOD DRIVE

1897.

W I I

**I will venture to say that in the whole of this island there exists not
a more intelligent population connected with the labouring &vd
industrial interests, than the population of the County of Sutherland."
— Speech in Parliament, by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone.

D E I) I C A T K D
TO

THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND,

AM)

LORD AND LADV R E A V,

THE PRESENT REPRESENTATIVES OF THE ANCIENT AND

N015LE KAMI LIES OF

" S i: T H E R I. A N 1) A N I) R E A V,'

P.V
THE EDITORS.

PREFACE.

TTTHILE a great many works have already appeared
y y bearing more or less remotely on the County of
Sutherland, only two of these can be said to possess
much historical value, viz. Sir Robert Gordon's " Earldom
of Sutherland " and Robert Mackay's " House and Clan of
Mackay." Copies of these are somewhat scarce, and their
price puts them beyond the reach of many. The want ot
such a work as the present has been long felt, and the
Editors considered it would greatly enhance its value if each
subject were treated separately by the best authority pro-
curable. It will be readily understood that a considerable
time was neces.sar)' in bringing together contributions from a
variety of authors, and this accounts for the delay in the
publication of the book. Subscribers, however, have lost
nothing by the delay, as the volume has greatly exceeded the
dimensions indicated in the [)rospectus, and contains loo
pages more than anticipated.

It was intended at first to include chapters on the Natural
History and Geology of Sutherland ; but the exigencies of
space, combined with the recent appearance of exhaustive
works on these subjects by Mr. Harvie-Brown, of Larbert,
and Mr. Cadell, of Grange, induced the Editors to depart
from their original intention.

The Editors record, with thanks, their indebtedness for
valuable assistance in the preparation of the work to Mr.

VI 11. PREFACE.

John Mackay of Hereford, whom all Highlanders recognise
as one of the best rej^resentatives of their race : to Colonel
Duncan Menzies of J^lairich, the ])0[)iilar (.^ommanding
Officer o( the Sutherland \'olunteers : to the Rev. Tames
Aherigh-Mackay, I). D., the present representative of the
famous Clan Ahrach of Strathnaver : to Mr. John Munro,
Hanley: to the late Mr. Thomas Hantock, of \Volverhami)ton :
to Mr. Henry W'hyte (Kionn), the distinguished Celtic
scholar: to Dr. Anderson of the Society of Antiiiuaries
(Scotland), for the use of a number of engravings which
illustrate the Rev. Robert Mimro's pa])er on the '^Anticjuities";
and to Mr. Fred I>o.\, House of Tongue, through whose
kind assistance several interesting views of the Reay
country have been secured : and, above all, to the various
authors of the valuable papers relating to the County which
api)ear in this volume.

In ])reparing a list of notable men, the l^ditors found
that the number of names deserving of notice was so large
as to |)reclude adetjuate treatment of each. 'I'hey therefore
resolved to include only those who have kept in close touch
with the affairs of their native county, a goodly number of
whom are contributors to this work.

'The Editors, having now completed their labours, feel
satisfied that Sutherland men at home and abroad will find
in these i)a|)ers something to interest them, and possibly to
add to their knowledge of the i)ast history of their native
county ; while they also ho|)e that the volume will not be
without interest to other workers in the Celtic field.

ADAM (iUNN, \

]OHX MACKAY, JJ^^nt-Editors.

CONTENTS.

PACE

History, to 1560, ----- . . i

History, 1560- 1800, - - 43

A Short Treatise on Homespun, 78

Antiquities, - - - - 87

Folklore, - - - 116

Topography, - - 141

Language, - - 172

Regiments, 183

Volunteers, 2(^)0

Poetry and Music, - - - 283

Rob Donn, . . . 285

Religious History before the Reformation, - - - 321

Religious History of the Rcay Country after the Reformation, ^^2

Distinguished Men, -------- 367

List of Illustrations.

A Glimpse of Strathnaver at Loch Naver, ... 5

Loch Hope, looking towards Strathmore, . - - r)

The Field of Bannockburn, from (}illies Hill, - - - 12

Dunrobin Castle, Seat of the Duke of Sutherland, - - 15

Kyle of Tongue, - 17

X. CONTENTS.

The Watch Hill, Tongue, 24

Castle Varrich, Kyle of Tongue, 27

Strathnaver at Syre, near Rossal, ----- 29

Mackay (from M'lan's " Clans of the Scottish Highlands "), 35

Site of Borve Castle, F'arr, 41

Tombstone on grave of Murchadh Macleod, - - 43

Ruins of Helmsdale Castle, 45

The White Banner of the Clan Mackay, - - - 49

Coat of Arms of the Sutherland family, - - - - 54

{ Tongue House, the ancient seat of the Mackay Chiefs - 59

\ Coat of Arms of Donald, first Lord Reay, in Tongue House, 61

; Corner in Tongue House gardens, 65

! Kirkiboll Churchyard, Tongue, ----- 68

Clans Sutherland and Mackay (from "The Queen's Hook "), 74

Dunrobin Castle, 76

View and Plan of Rhinavie Cairns, Oi

Doorway from first to second chamber of long Cairn, - Q2

North end of Cairn No. 3, - - - 93

Balblair Blade, 98

Bronze Anvil, 99

Bronze Vessels found near Helmsdale, 100, loi

Torish Necklace, 102

Eirde House, Erribol (cross section), . . . . 109

Ancient Gravestone in Farr Churchyard,- - - 111

Colours of Mackay's Regiment in the service of Holland, 188

Colours of the Reay Fencibles, 23^

Place at Syre, where the Strathnaver men enlisted in 93rd, 236

The " Thin Red Line " at Balaclava, - - - - 243

Officer, Sergeant, Piper, and Privates of Sutherland Co.'s 261

„ Caithness Companies, 263

Sergeant and Privates of the Caithness Companies, - - 26$
t

-oo^^^

Plate Portraits.

The Duke and Duchess of Sutherland,

Lord and Lady Reay,

Rev. Robert Munro, M.A., B.D., F.S.A. Scot.,

The late John Mackay (Ben Reay i,

General Sir John A. Ewart, K.C.15., 93rd S. H.,

Lieut. -Col. Duncan Mcnzies, 1st S. H. R. Vol.,

John Mackay, C,E., J. P., Hereford,

Rev. John S. Mackay, Fort Auj^ustus,

George J. Campbell, Sheriff of the Lews,

James Macdonald, W.S., Edinburgh,

Rev. Adam Gunn, M.A., Durness, -

Donald Matheson, of Achany,

William Mackay, Provost of Thurso

Rev. John Murray, Convener of the County,

Donald Munro, M.E., Manchester, -

John Mackay, Editor Celtic Monthly^ Glasgow.

George Murray Campbell, C.E., Siam,

Rev. James Aberigh-Mackay, D.D.,

Frontispiece.

To face page i

?»

>»

'83

235

260

285

liliZ

371

372

374

375

378

379

380

381

382

CONTENTS.

Group of Officers of Battalion, -

Group of Pipers „ ,,

Battalion at Invergordon Camp, . . . -
„ marching past, Jubilee Review, Inverness.
Colour- Sergeant Robert Mackay, Queen's Prizeman,-

267
269
271

273
278

I i

List of Subscribers.

Adam, Frank, Esq., F.S.A., Scot., Sourabaya, Java.

Anderson, J. L., Esq., Northumberland Street, Edinburgh.

Ansell, W. J., Esq., Larnacia, Cyprus.

Bannerman, Hugh, Esq., Southport.

Bantock, George Granville, Esq, M.D., London.

Bantock, Thomas, Esq , Wolverhampton.

Bickley, Thomas, Esq., J. P., Hanlcy.

Bignold, Arthur, Esq., of Lochrosque, Ross-shire.

Black, Robert, Esq., Bangkok, Siam.

Bolton, Mrs., Moor Court, N. Staffordshire.

Bolton, Miss Beatrice, Moor Court, N. Staffordshire.

Box, John, Esq , House of Tongue, Sutherland.

Box, Fred., Esq., Johannesburg, South African Republic.

Bruce, Alexander, Esq , Clyne House, Pollokshields, Glasgow.

Burgess, Captain A , Gairloch, Ross-shire.

Cameron, A. F. H., Esq.. M.D., Camden, Glos.

Cameron, John, Esq , J. P., E.K-Provost of Kirkintilloch.

Campbell, A. D., Esq., Komgha, Cape Colony, South Africa.

Campbell, George J., Esq., Sheriff of the Lews.

Campbell, John, Esq., Tongue, Sutherland.

Carmichael, Dr., Tarbert.

Chaplin's Library, Keswick.

Chisholm, Kenneth Mackenzie, Esq., M.D., Radcliffe.

Clarke, G. G., Esq., Eriboll, Sutherland.

Colquhoun, Sir James, of Colquhoun and Luss, Bart.

Colquhoun, Lady, Rossdhu, Loch Lomond.

Cowan, George, Esq., Edinburgh.

Crerar, Rev. A., Kinlochbervie.

Cumming, Miss, Secretary, Sutherland Home Industries, Golspie.

Cunyngham, Miss Ethel A., London,

i i

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. xiii. j

Dennis, Mrs. iVIatilda Mackay, Conneaut Lake, Penn., U.S A i 1

Ewart, General Sir John Alex., K.C.B., of Craigcleuch. ^

Fraser, Alex., Esq., Solicitor, Inverness. >

Finlayson, Rev. D., Kinlochbervie, Sutherland. n

Gilmour, James, Esq., Mansion House Road, Paisley.

Gilmour, William Ewing, Esq., Alexandria.

Graham, William, Esq., J. P., of North Erines.

Gray-Buchanan, A. W., Esq., Polmont.

Gray, George, Esq., J. P., Rutherglen.

Gunn, A. M., Esq , M.A., Brora, Sutherland.

Gunn, Alexander, Flsq., Parkhead, C^lasgow.

Gunn, Lieut, (jilbert, The Royal Scots, Bangalore, India.

Gunn, Hugh, Esq., Strathy, Sutherland.

Gunn, John, Esq., Golspie.

Gunn, William, Esq., StrathpefTcr.

Harradence, R. W., Esq., Ware, Herts.

Harvie- Brown, John A., Esq., Larbcrt.

Hedderwick, J. C. H., Esq., M.P., Higgar.

Hay, Colin, Esq., Ardbeg, I slay.

Holmes, W. & R., Booksellers, Glasgow. J

Hopkinson, J. Garland, Esq., Monaughty, Forres.

Houston, Major William, Kintradwcll, Sutherland.

Hunter, John England, Esq., Douglas, Gairloch. :

Hunter, W. Sutherland, Esq., Kildonan, Pollokshields, Glasgow. *■

Joass, Rev. Dr., Golspie. j

Kemp, Daniel William, Esq, J. P., Trinity, Edinburgh.

Kerr, Rev. Cathel, Melness, Tongue, Sutherland.

Leason, George, Esq., J. P., Stoke-on-Trent.

Lightbody, W., Esq., Nairn. ,

Lindsay, Councillor Andrew, Merchant, (jolspie.

Littlejohn, Alex., Esq., J- P., D.L., of Invercharron.

Macandrew, Sir Henry C, Aisthorpe, Inverness.

Macaulay, A. N., Esq., Solicitor, Golspie.

Macbean, William M., Esq., New York, U.S.A.

I -

XIV. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

Macbeth, John, Esq., Kinbrace, Sutherland.

MacCoy, Daniel, Esq., Grand Rapids, Michigan, U.S.A.

Macdonald, Rev. A. J., Killearnan.

Macdonald, I). S , Esq., M.B., CM , Armadale, Isle of Skye.

Macdonald, I). T., Esq., J. P., Calumet, Michigan, U.S.A.

Macdonald, H. L., Esq., of Dunach.

Macdonald, Allan, Esq., LL. D., Glenarm. Co. Antrim,

Macdonald, Alexander, Esq., of Balranald and Edenwood.

Macdonald, Alexander, Esq., Doncaster Street, Glasgow.

Macdonald, Charles Donald, Esq., Rosario, Argentine Republic.

Macdonald, George, Esq., Merchant, Lairg.

Macdonald, Hugh, Esq., B«ilcharn, Lairg.

Macdonald, Hugh, Esq., Solicitor, Aberdeen.

Macdonald, James, Esq., W.S., Edinburgh.

Macdonald, Keith Norman, Esq., M.D., Edinburgh.

Macdonald, Lachlan, Esq., of Skeabost, Isle of Skye.

Macdonald, Ranald, Esq., Carloway, Lewis.

Macfarlane, Malcolm, Esq., Elderslie.

Macgregor, (ieorge, Esq., Cannon Street, London.

Mac Ivor, Evander, Factor, Scourie.

Mackay, Captain A. Leith-Hay, Inverness.

Mackay, Major A. Y., Grangemouth.

Mackay, Sheriff it neas J. G., M.A„ LL.D., Edinburgh.

Mackay, Alexander, Esq., J. P., Holt Manor, Wilts.

Mackay, Alexander, Esq., St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh.

Mackay, Alexander, Esq., Bank of Scotland, Thurso.

Mackay, Alexander, Esq., Hutchison Square, Glasgow.

Mackay, Alexander, Esq., Bath Street, Glasgow.

Mackay, Alexander H., Esq., B.A., LL.I)., B.Sc, Minister for

Education, Nova Scotia.
Mackay, Andrew, Esq., The Mound, Sutherland.
Mackay, Colin J., Esq., of Bighouse, Kurnoul, India.
Mackay, D. J., Esq., Greencroft Gardens, London.
Mackay, David, Esq., Tain, Ross-shire.

LIST OF SUr.SCRIBERS. XV.

Mackay, Donald, Esq., J. P., Hraemore, Caithness.

Mackay, Donald, Esq. (of Ceylon), Hereford.

Mackay, Donald, Esq., ** Strathnaver," Edinburgh.

Mackay, Donald, Esq., Bromley, Kent.

Mackay, Donald, Esq., Helmsdale.

Mackay, Donald Hugh Petrus, Esq., Amsterdam, Holland.

Mackay, Duncan, Esq., Siruan, Perthshire.

Mackay, His Excellency Baron Eneas, late Prime Minister of

the Netherlands, The Hague, Holland.
Mackay, Eneas, Esq., Bookseller. Stirling.
Mackay, Eppe Roelof, Esq., Amsterdam, Holland.
Mackay, Eric, Esq., Royal Exchange, London.
Mackay, Mrs. Eric, Cheltenham.

Mackay, Surgeon-General George, M.I.)., J. P., of Bighouse.
Mackay, (George, Esq., M.I) , Drumsheugh Gardens, Edinburgh.
Mackay. George, Esq., Secdhill Road, Paisley.
Mackay, George J., Esq., J. P., Ex-Mayor of Kendal.
Mackay, Hector M.. Esq., Town Clerk, Dornoch.
Mackay, Hugh, Esq., .Spcns Crescent, Perth.
Mackay, Hugh, Esq., Colerainc, Ireland.

Mackay, Ian Donald, Esq,, B A., CM., M.B., Knaresborough.
Mackay, Captain James, Trowbridge, Wilts.
Mackay, Rev. James, Shrewsbury.
Mackay, James, Esq., Swansea.

Mackay, James, Esq., Roxburgh, Otago, New Zealand.
Mackay, James, Esq., Aberdeen.
Mackay, James, Esq., George IV. Bridge, Edinburgh.
Mackay, Rev. James Aberigh, D.I)., Chieftain of Clan Abrach,
Mackay, James Hay ward, Esq., Primrose Hill, London.
Mackay, James R., Esq., British Linen Bank House, Edinburgh.
Mackay, Miss Joan, ** Mackay Institute," Paris, Prance.
Mackay, John, Esq., C.E., J. P. Hereford.
Mackay, John, Esq., M.L.M.E., Bangkok, Siam.
Mackay, John, Esq , Bristol.

XVI. LIST OK SUBSCRIBERS.

Mackay, John C, Esq., Battlefield Gardens, Langside, Glasgow.

Mackay, Councillor John, Peterborough.

Mackay, John, Esq., Gosforth, Ne\vcastle-on-Tyne.

Mackay, John, Esq., Laidniore, New Zealand.

Mackay, John, Esq., Baffin Street, Dundee.

Mackay, John G., Esq., C.C, Portree, Isle of Skye.

Mackay, John S., Esq., LL.D., Edinburgh Academy.

Mackay, Joseph, Esq., High Street, Belfast.

Mackay, Mrs. C. (of Kinlochbervie House), Edinburgh.

Mackay, Miss, St. Giles, Lincoln.

Mackay, Mrs. Neil, Rosemarkie, Ross-shire.

Mackay, Neil, Esq., West 24th Street, New York, U.S.A.

Mackay, R. A., Esq., Durban, South Africa.

Mackay, R. Gunn, Esq., Stamford Hill, London.

Mackay, R. J., Esq., Darlington.

Mackay, R. Whyte, Esq., Union Street, Aberdeen.

Mackay, Richard, Escj., Merchant, Durness, Sutherland.

Mackay, Richard, Esq., M 'Asian Street, Glasgow.

Mackay, Stewart J., Esq , Conncaut Lake, Penn., U.S.A.

Mackay, Thomas, Esq., Largs.

Mackay, Thomas A., Esq., Jiritish Linen Bank House, Inverness.

Mackay, W. W., Esq., Ex-Provost, Dunoon.

Mackay Councillor William, Solicitor, Inverness.

Mackay, William, Esq., i^rovost of Thurso.

Mackay, William, Esq., Dungannon, Co. Tyrone.

Mackay, William, Esq., (jarriochmill Road, Glasgow.

Mackenzie, Alexander, Esq., Bath.

Mackenzie, Rev. I)., F'arr, Sutherland.

Mackenzie, Rev. Duncan S. , (iairloch, Ross-shire.

Mackenzie, Rev. John, (iolspie.

Mackenzie, John, Esq , Kirn.

Mackenzie, John, Esq., Town Clerk, Tain.

Mackenzie, Roderick Eraser, Esq., P'ortrose.

Mackenzie, SheritT, Dornoch.

V ■

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. XVll

I 1

Mackenzie, Miss, Durness. .

Mackenzie, Wm., Esq., Secy., Crofters' Commission, Edinburgh^ i

Mackey, Edward, Esq., M.D., Brighton.

Mackey, Robert, Esq., Coleraine, Ireland.

Mackey, Thomas, Esq., Coleraine, Ireland.

Mackey, William J., Esq., Londonderry.

Mackillop, James, Jun., Esq., Polmont.

Mackinnon, Alexander K., Esq., South Kensington, London.

Mackintosh, Alexander, Esq., Forfar.

Mackintosh, Charles Eraser, Esq., of Drummond.

Mackintosh, D. A. S., Esq., Shettleston.

Mackintosh, Duncan, Bank of Scotland, Inverness.

Maclauchlan, J. D., Esq., M.E., Edinburgh.

Maclean, Alexander Scott, Esq., Bank Street, Greenock.

Maclean, Charles, Esq., Merchant, Golspie.

Maclean, Daniel, Jun., Esq., Roxburgh Street, Greenock.

Maclean, Lieut. Hector F., Younger of Duart, Scots (Guards,

Macleod, John, Esq., Ardgay, Ross-shire.

Macleod, Norman, Esq., Bookseller, Edinburgh.

Macleod, Peter B. H., Esq., M.D., New Deer.

Macpherson, Alexander, Esq., Provost of Kingussie.

Macpherson, Donald, Esq., Postmaster, Falkirk. ,

Maitland, Bailie Andrew, Tain.

Matheson, Dcmald, Esq., J. P., of Achany and the Lews. \

Matheson, Hugh Mackay, Esq., J, P., Hampstcad, London.

Maybrick Library, Oxford.

Melville, Mullen and Slade, Booksellers, London.

Menzies, Colonel Duncan, ist Sutherland Rifle Volunteers. ^

Menzies & Co., Messrs. John, Booksellers, Glasgow. . j

Morrison, Captain John, Dunrobin, Golspie. '

Morrison, James, Esq., British Linen Coy.'s Bank, Golspie.

Morrison, Mrs. M. S., Partick, Glasgow. I

Morrison, Captain William, Edinburgh. ,

Munro, Alexander, Esq., Breadalbane Street, Glasgow.

XVlll. LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

Munro, Bailey, Esq., Hope Street, Glasgow.

Munro, Donald, Esq., M.I.C.E., Manchester.

Munro, Donald, Esq., Armadale, Mell)ourne, Victoria.

Munro, Rev. Donald, Ferintosh.

Munro, George M., Esq., C.-on-M., Manchester.

Munro, The Hon. James, late Premier of Victoria, Melbourne.

Munro, John, Esq., Hanley, Staffordshire.

Munro, Rev. Robert, M.A., B.D., F.S.A., Scot., Old Kilpatrick.

Murray, Bailie Alexander, J. P., Glasgow.

Murray, Alexander, Esq., Merchant, Strath Halladale.

Murray, Rev. John, Convener of the County of Sutherland, Brora.

Napier, Theodore, Esq., •* Magdala," Essenden, Victoria.

Nicol, John, Esq., Golspie.

Noble, Kenneth D., Esq., Helensburgh.

Patience, James, Esq., Clutha Street, Glasgow.

Poison, Dr. J. Ronald, Worcester.

Pratt, Miss Maud, Secy, to the Duchess of Sutherland, Trentham.

Reay, The Right Hon. Lord, D.C.L., G.C.I.E., G.C.S.I.

Reay, Lady, Carolside, Berwickshire.

Reid, Donald, Esq., Struy, Beauly.

Robson, A. Mackay, Esq., Edinburgh.

Ross, A., Esq., Leicester.

Ross, Rev. Henry, LL.D., Lancaster.

Ross, John M., Esq., Devonshire Gardens, (ilasgow.

Ross, William George, Esq., Forres.

Salmond, Rev Dr., Aberdeen.

Sandison, A. K., Esq., Southampton.

Scobie, Miss, Keoldale, Durness.

Scott, Rev. A. B.. Helmsdale.

Scott. Miss Jean Macfarlane. Sunderland.

Simpson, Dr. J. B., (lolspie.

Sinclair, Archibald, Publisher, lo Both well Street, Glasgow

Sinclair, Rev. Colin, Kirkhill, Inverness-shire.

Sinclair, Donald, Esq., Stempster, Caithness.

LIST OF SUBSCRIHERS. XIX.

Sinclair, James, Esq., Fresno City, Cal, U.S.A.

Sinclair, Rev. A. Maclean, Belfast, Prince Edward Island.

Smith, Rev. Hunter, Edinburgh.

Smith, Captain J., Rhiconich Hotel, Sutherland.

Stewart, Hugh, Esq., Maxwell Street, Partick, (jlasgow.

Steven, Frank, Esq., Station Hotel, Inverness.

Sutherland, His Grace the Duke of, Dunrobin Castle.

Sutherland, Dr. D. C, Brora.

Sutherland, Dr. L. R., Kcrsland Terrace, Glasgow.

Sutherland, Ale.xander, Esq., Prestonkirk.

Sutherland, A. Munro, Esq., Newcastle on-Tyne.

Sutherland, Benjamin John, Esq., Ncwcastle-on-Tyne.

Sutherland, Charles H., Esq., Montreal, Canada.

Sutherland, Charles J., Esq., M.D., South Shields.

Sutherland, (jcorge, Esq., Hatfield, Herts.

Sutherland, George Miller, Esq., Wick.

Sutherland, James, Esq., Berriedale, Clapham Common, London.

Sutherland, John, fcLsq., Stoke-on-Trent.

Sutherland, John, Esq., Cefu Coed, South Wales.

Sutherland, John A., Esq., M.I)., Clcckheaton. Yorks.

Sutherland, Cieorge. Esq., Portskerra, Sutherland.

Symon, A., Esq., The Mound, (Golspie.

Thompson, Frederick, Esq., South Street, London.

Thomson, J.J. P., Esq., C.C., London.

Tongue Reading Room, Sutherland.

Tunnicliff, Major, J. P., Hanley.

Turnbull, Mrs., Durness Hotel, Sutherland.

Urquhart, R., Esq , Commercial Bank, Douglas, Lanark.

Waddell. James, Esq., Gallowgate, Glasgow.

Warrand, Colonel A. J. C, Ryefield, Conon-Bridge.

Westminster, His (irace the Duke of, Benmore Lodge.

White, Hon. Montague, Antigu West Indies.

Whyte, Henry, Esq., 4 Bridge Street, Glasgow.

Wilson, J. Mackay, Esq., Currygrane, Co. Longford, Ireland.

Yule, Miss Amy Frances, Tarradale, Ross-shire.

}

l.ORh KKAV, D.C.I,., C.r I.K

2 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

century. It is a matter of regret that neither the Scottish,
nor Irish annalists of this period, record anything of the
Northern Picts. There is abundant evidence, however, in
the pages of Adamnan, Columba's biographer, and of Dicuil,
an Irish Monk, that the Orkneys were converted to the
Christian faith before the 7th century, and the same may be
fairly inferred about Caithness and Sutherland. Shortly after
this the inhabitants were destined to a rude awakening, from
the Norse pirates on the one hand, and the Dalriadic Scots
on the other.

It is indeed impossible to say how early the North Coast
received occasional visits from the Vikings. They did not,
however, come to stay, until Orkney was first colonized by
them, and made the base of operations. The earliest Norse
settlers there were refugees from Norway, and they did not
hesitate to make raids upon the mother country as well as
upon the mainland, and the Western Isles of Scotland. To
put an end to these plundering expeditions Harold Fairhair,
King of Norway, in 872, fitted out a large fleet, subdued the
Orkney Islands and continued his course to the Hebrides,
which he also subjugated. Orkney was then given to Rogn-
wald. Earl of Moeri, who was thus the first Earl, and he, in
less than a year, presented the Earldom to his brother
Sigurd, uncle of Rolf, the conqueror of Normandy.

In 875, Sigurd, along with Thorstein the Red, leader of
the Norse settlers in Ireland, subdued the Northern Counties
as far south as Moray. The Sagas relate with much detail
his encounter with Maolbragd, the Celtic mor-mhaor of Ross,
surnamed Buck-tooth. The Celtic chief challenged him to
fight with forty men a side on horseback, but the Norse Jarl,
suspecting treachery, put two men on ^ch horse, and so won

HISTORY. 3

the victory. It was, however, dearly bought, for as Sigurd
rode off, with the chieftain's head fastened to his saddle-
straps, the protruding tooth grazed his foot, and inflicted a
wound of which he died. He was buried in "iSigurd's Hoch,"
now Siderha (Cyderhall). From this date, until the final
expulsion of the Norsemen in 1 196, the county of Sutherland
had little peace. Its position exposed it to perpetual inroads
from the Norsemen of Caithness on the one hand, and the
Celts of Moray on the other. The Mor-mhaor of ancient
Moravia vied with the Scottish Kings in power and influence.
Again and again this district was overrun by the victorious
Norse, but native chiefs soon arose after each invasion, and
kept the foreigners well within the bounds of Caithness.
The Reay country did not fare so badly in this perpetual
strife, although the native population was more or less dom-
inated by the Norse colonies at Durness, Tongue, Farr, and
Halladale. That sanguinary conflicts took place in this
remote district is clear alike from the pages of Torfaeus, and
the Sagas, and the battle-fields along the banks of the Naver,
and the North Coast, which bear Norse names. But the
South East part of the County suffered most, as it lay in the
way of the opposing armies, and to this period must be
ascribed the construction of such fortifications as remain at
Loch Brora, and the many walled caves along the coast, such
as those of Kintradwell, and in the hill face above Dunrobin,
visited by Pococke and Pennant.

It was during the fierce and sanguinary warfare carried on
for centuries between the Norse and the descendants of the
Northern Picts, that the Scottish kingdom of the Dalriads
extended its borders, and ultimately obtained complete control
over all Scotland. As early as the tenth century the Scottish

4 SUTHERI.AND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Kings claim the right to interfere in matters of this Northern

Earldom. In 1008, King Malcolm confirms the Earldom

of Sutherland and Caithness to Sigurd, the Stout, and gives

him his daughter in marriage. Their son Thorfinn, was

created Earl at the early age of five, by his grandfather, and

deputies were appointed to govern his possessions during

his minority. He became one of the most influential of the

Norse Earls, and disputed the right of his cousin, King

Duncan, to the tribute usually paid to the Scottish Kings

This brought about war, and Moddan, the King's nephew,

was created Earl of (Caithness, and furnished with an army

to dispossess his rival. Moddan's army was defeated, and

King Duncan now resolved to attack Thorfinn by land and

sea. He himself went with the fleet, and Moddan was sent

by land with a large army. Thorfinn was again victorious.

King Duncan made a third attempt to crush this formidable

vassal. This time the scene of operations was in the district

of Moray. A great battle was fought, and victory for a time

was doubtful, but the Norse Earl again prevailed, and the

country was overrun as far south as Fife. Torfaeus says "his

vengeance was terrific, destroying whole countries with fire

and sword." King Duncan was slain either in the battle, or

by his General, Macbeth, who succeeded him on the throne.

The Kingdom was divided between himself and Thorfinn, the

latter receiving the North and Eastern provinces to the Tay.

He died in 1064, leaving a widow Ingibiorg, who became

the first wife of Malcolm Ceannmor.

Thorfinn's successors, however, were not able long to
keep possession of the Southern districts. On the accession
of Malcolm Ceannmor to the Scottish throne, one after
another fell away from their Norse allegiance. His sons

6 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

quarrelled among themselves, and in 1139 Rognald, the son
of Kol, and Harold, the son of Maddad, Earl of Athol, by
Margaret, daughter of a Sutherland Norse magnate, obtained
forcible possession of the Northern Earldom. About 1 187,
a rival to Harald Maddadson appeared in the person of
Harald, the younger, grandson of Earl Rognwald. Hostilities
began afresh, and Harald, the younger, was slain. King
William the Lion commissioned Reginald of the Isles to levy
troops, and proceed to the scene of disturbance. A battle
was fought at Dalharold, Strathnaver, which ended in the
defeat of Harald Maddadson ; and three deputies were
appointed to rule in the name of the King of Scots, at
Tongue, Thurso, and Dunrobin respectively. Shortly after-
wards, Harald returned from Orkney, whither he had fled,
and mutilated the Bishop at Scrabster, (who intervened on
behalf of his countrymen), and ravaged the county with fire
and sword. This outburst of Norse savagery moved King
William to come in person to the North, with a large army.
He had with him a contingent from Galloway, and another
from Moray, under command of Hugh Freskyn. After
fining the Earl in 2000 pounds of silver, and separating Reay
and Sutherland from his jurisdiction, and taking hostages,
he returned, leaving Hugh Freskyn commander in Sutherland,
and the chief of the Galloway contingent, Alex. (Mackay) in
the Reay Country. These respective chiefs were the progenitors
of the Houses of Sutherland and Mackay. They soon expelled
the Norsemen, applied themselves to restore and maintain
order, pacify the country, and consolidate the power and
influence vested in them by the King of Scotland, whose
authority was now firmly established in the North. In 1222
they rendered material assistance to Alexander II., in

HISTORY. 7

his expedition into Caithness, to punish those implicated in
the barbarous and tragical burning of Bishop Adam, at
Brawl. The Mackay chief met the King at Halkirk, and
the Sutherland contingent led by William De Moravia, Hugh
Freskyn's son, joined him as he passed through by the coast.
This gallant young warrior was a constant attendant upon
William the Lion in his expeditions to quell mutinies in
Moray and Ross, fomented by the Celtic population in these
provinces, against the feudal rule of the Norman lords, intro-
duced by King David and William the Lion himself. He
also assisted Alexander IL, in quelling a Celtic rebellion
in Ross, for which he was ennobled and styled, " Dominus
Sutherlandiae," and in 1228 Alexander created him Earl of
Sutherland, the first Earl of his race. He died about 1248,
and his son William succeeded him as 2nd Earl. It was
during the ist Earl's rule in Sutherland that Bishop Gilbert
of Moravia, a cousin, reorganised the bishopric of Caithness
and Sutherland, built the cathedral of Dornoch, divided the
counties into parishes, provided ministers to officiate in them,
and made provision for their support, and the maintenance
of conventual worship in the cathedral. It is said that he
translated the Psalms of David and the Gospels into Gaelic
for the benefit of all within his diocese. This eminent
ecclesiastic was held in the highest esteem by Alexander II.
He died in 1245, and was afterwards canonized.

In 1259, the date given by Sir Robert Gordon, was
fought the battle of Dornoch. Tradition has it that Bishop
Gilbert, like other ecclesiastics of his time, with his younger
brother Richard, baron of Skelbo, were first in the fray.
The Bishop's shield-boarer, as soon as he saw the Norsemen,
ran away, so that the Bishop had to fight without his shield.

8 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

The incident became a common proverb ever after — "He
was like the Bishop's lad; when wanted he was not to be
found." Earl William soon appeared on the scene, and the
Norsemen were defeated and chased to their ships at the
Little Ferry. The fight was severe, and among the killed
was Sir Richard De Moravia of Skelbo. The Earl of Suther-
land was disarmed by the Norse commander, but finding the
leg of a horse near him, hurled it at his antagonist and killed
him. A stone on the battlefield marks the place of his fall
and interment ; another named the Earl's Cross, was reared
to commemorate the victory. This was the last raid of the
Norsemen into Sutherland. If the Bishop took part in this
battle, its date would probably be 1239, not 1259.

In 1263, the whole county was thrown into a state of
great consternation by rumours of a Norwegian invasion.
Norwegian troops had landed in Caithness, and were levying
contributions far and near. Watch fires were alight every-
where, but Haco passed on to Durness, brought his fleet to
anchor, and sent some men on shore to plunder. The
people being forewarned, retired into the interior with their
goods and chattels. Foiled in their expectation of plunder,
the remorseless invaders destroyed twenty hamlets, and
demolished a fort on the shore, the ruins of which still
remain, now called " Sean chaisteal," (old castle).

On the return of Haco, after the disaster of Largs, he
put into Loch Erribol for provisions and fresh water. A
strong party was sent out to forage. The natives were on
the alert, and drove their cattle and flocks into the inland
valleys. Some were discovered in GlengoUie, which were
being driven away when the natives intercepted the Norse-
men, and after some fighting the plunderers retreated into

the adjacent valley of Strathmore, Here they were agaia
intercepted, and all slain except one, who by fleetness of
foot, escaped to carry his tale of woe to Haco. In memory
of this event the valley became known as "Urra-Dal," or
the Dale uport which the Norae leader fell, and in which he
^was interred. Haco immediately set sail for Orkney.

LOCH HOPE, LOOKING TOWARDS STRATHMORE.

The spirited rule of the successors of William the Lion,

the two Alexanders, caused law and order to prevail in the
North and the South. The prosperous reign of the last
Alexander, for thirty-seven years, became the theme of poets.
Wars, intenial and external, had ceased in the land. Every-
one enjoyed security. It was the "golden age" in Scotland,
when every yeoman and every peasant cultivated his fields,

lO SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

and tended his flocks in peace and tranquility. The mer-
chant plied his trade on land and sea without dread or
apprehension, commerce at home and with foreign countries
prospered to an extent hitherto unknown or unheard of,
Scottish ships and merchantmen were known in almost every
seaf)ort in Europe.

Sutherland, north and south, shared in this general pros-
perity. The two chiefs of Sutherland succeeded in moulding
their heterogeneous followers to their will, and uniting them
into a compact body of clansmen devoted to their service.
This wise and conciliating policy had its due reward. The
chiefs became respected and revered, the clansmen felt
proud of their chiefs, and acknowledged the kindness shown
them by complete devotion to their interests in peace or
war, and the spirit of clanship was in consequence fostered
to an extent previously unknown.

Evil days were impending; the disastrous and tragic death
of Alexander III., in 1286, threw the country into the
hands of the designing and warlike Edward I. of England.
The selfish and craven hearted Scots nobility bowed their
necks to the yoke, and swore fealty to Edward in 1296,
William, the 2nd Earl of Sutherland, being of the
number. The Scottish yeomen and peasantry gloomily stood
aloof anticipating a leader; the rapacity of the English
soldiery aroused the greatest indignation amongst all classes.
The leader arose in the person of Wallace, who like another
Samson, went forth almost singly and slew the " Philistines,"
in almost every encounter. He became a real hero, the
magic of his name and fame encouraged the middle and
lower classes of his countrymen, while it terrified the enemy
far and wide. Emboldened by such rapid successes, the

HISTORY. 1 1

bravest of his countrymen soon rallied round the standard of
freedom and justice, determined, like their leader, to
free their country from the arrogant oppressions of Edward's
soldiery. One stronghold after another was captured from
the invaders, till Scotland, north of the Tay, was set free.
Then an opportunity presented itself, which was to set free
the whole south of Scotland by one fell stroke. Edward,
furious at the rapid progress made by Wallace in capturing
and expelling his garrisons from so many strongholds through-
out the country, ordered his Lord Deputy, Warrender, to
collect all the soldiery of the North of England and South of
Scotland, and crush the "robber and rebel," Wallace, who
was at the time besieging Dundee. Wallace immediately
sent the fier>'-cross into the North Lowlands and Highlands,
for every chief to come to his aid, with his contingent of
men. He raised the siege of Dundee, and with the forces
he had in hand took post on the Ochill hills, behind Dun-
blane, to watch the movements of the invading army. Here
came to his aid the Menzies, Murray, and other clans of
Perthshire and Moray, the yeomen of Eife, Angus, and the
Mearns, a goodly array; indeed, the Scottish army was mostly
composed of Highlanders. By dint of strategy and general-
ship, a glorious victory at Stirling Bridge was achieved by
Wallace, and Scotland set free.

The calamitous effects of the envy and jealousy of the
craven hearted Scottish nobility, at these astounding successes
being achieved without their aid or countenance, became
manifest next year at Falkirk, when all of them again bowed
the knee to Edward, and the independence of Scotland was
once again lost for a time. Nevertheless, Wallace showed
the way to attain it; his mantle fell upon Robert Bruce, who,

HISTORY. 1 3

following the tactics of Wallace, eventually succeeded in
giving the " coup de grace " to English arrogance and claim
of supremacy, on the field of Bannockburn, by the united
military forces of the Kingdom, amongst whom were the
chiefs and retainers of Sutherland and Mackay.

A deep and general panic seized the English after
Bannockburn. Their wonted energy forsook them. Robert
Bruce, taking advantage of this dejection, very soon after the
battle, invaded England three times in 13 14, enriched his
army, and sent every member of it home laden with spoil.
These expeditions were continued almost every year, with
little opposition. In 1323, Bruce personally conducted a
large army into England, comprising the whole military
strength of Scotland, from North to South, and meeting the
King of England, with all the array of his kingdom, at
Biland Abbey, inflicted upon him a crushing defeat, pursuing
him to the gates of York. The chiefs of Sutherland dis-
tinguished themselves at this battle ; the *' Redshanks,"
as the English called the kilted men of the North, proved
themselves brave warriors. Earl William of Sutherland died
two years after this great victory.

In 1333, his son and successor Kenneth, was slain at the
battle of Halidon Hill, leading the van; many of his men
fell vnih him. In 1349, Earl William, son of Kenneth, led
an expedition into England, and on returning captured Rox-
burgh Castle. This Earl became a great favourite with
King David, after returning to Scotland from his nine years'
exile in France, in 1341.

In 1341-3, this Earl with his men accompanied David
in his expeditions and invasions into England. David
rewarded him for his services by giving him his sister,

14 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Margaret Bruce, in marriage, by whom he had two sons,
Alexander and John.

In 1346, David, at the instigation of the King of France,
who was then hard pressed by Edward III., mustered
the whole military forces of Scotland, and burst into England,
ravaging the country as he advanced, right up to Durham.
The Earl of Sutherland, with the barons and men of the
North, were in this army. David, although no general, was as
brave and daring as his uncle, Edward Bruce, but he wholly
lacked the admirable judgment, prudence, and military skill
of his great father. After very severe fighting at Neville's
Cross, he was defeated and taken prisoner, with his brother-
in-law, the Earl of Sutherland, and several of his nobility
He attributed his defeat and capture to the Steward of
Scotland and the Earl of March, commanding the third
division, retiring from the field without making an effort to
come to his aid while hard pressed in the centre. This was
the supposed cause of the bitter enmity he afterwards mani-
fested towards the Steward, who was his presumptive heir.
After eleven years' captivity in England he was ransomed,
his nephew, the young master of Sutherland, being one of
the hostages for the payment. David, after his return,
obtained the consent of parliament to disinherit the Steward,
and elect the young master of Sutherland his heir pre-
sumptive. He then largely endowed the Earl of Sutherland
with baronies in various counties, which the Earl afterwards
reconveyed to noblemen in those districts on promise to
support the rights granted to his son, against any claims the
Steward might make upon the demise of the King. The
young master of Sutherland died in England before the
King's ransom was paid, and the whole scheme became void

t6 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

and of no effect. The Steward succeeded to the throne

as Robert II.

During the time of William, fifth Earl of Sutherland, who
was much in the south engaged in the continual warfare on
the borders, frequent aggressions were made by Sutherland
men upon the Mackays, who as frequently retaliated. Upon
the return of the Sutherland chief, Mackay demanded
reparation, the Sutherlands being the aggressors. The Earl
offered to submit their differences to the Lord of the Isles,
and other noblemen of Ross ; Mackay assented. The
parties met at Dingwall, and submitted their relative cases to
arbitration. It would appear that the Mackay chief seemed
likely to get the best of it. The Earl sought an interview
with Mackay and his son Donald. In the heat of the dis-
cussion high words ensued, and the Earl getting very angry
drew his dagger and mortally stabbed both father and son.
I Hastily making his escape out of the castle, he rode off to

I Dunrobin, pursued by the Mackay retainers so closely that

J it was with some difficulty he succeeded in effecting his

escape. This was the commencement of the feuds and
conflicts which lasted for two centuries, between the Suther-
lands and Mackays. The successor of this Earl arranged
I the whole dispute afterwards with the successor of the chiefs

j assassinated at Dingwall, and amity was re-established for a

time.

The Mackay chief, Angus, who succeeded his father
Donald, killed at Dingwall in 1370, married a daughter of
MacLeod of Lewis, by whom he had two sons, Angus Du,
and Rorie Gallda, (Roderick the foreigner), so called from
his being by custom reared in Lewis amongst his mother's
relatives. Their father, having died at an early age, left

{

1 8 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

his family and estates in the guardianship of his brother
Hugh, till his son Angus Du came of age. Hugh was a
stern man of business, and proved himself worthy of the
trust reposed in him by his brother. During his guardian-
ship the mother of the young chief was desirous of having
some share in the management of affairs, and probably a
larger allowance than had been allotted to her. Hugh
declined to accede to her demands. She then complained
to her brother, MacLeod of Lewis, who came to Tongue
with a large and select company of his men, with the deter-
mination of compelling Hugh by entreaty or force, to comply
with his sister's demands. Finding the guardian inflexible,
and not a man to be cajoled by fair words, or overawed by
force, he departed in high dudgeon, and on his way home-
wards drove off a large number of cattle from Mackay's
lands. No sooner was this reported than Hugh and his
brother Neil, getting as many men together as they could,
went in pursuit of the men of I^wis, whom they overtook in
Strathoykell. The Mackays immediately attacked the I^wis
men, and as Sir R. Gordon says, "a terrible battle was
fought," in which the islanders were annihilated, one only
escaping to tell the woful tale. Hugh, the guardian, died
two years after this event, and Neil did not long survive,
leaving three sons, Thomas, Morgan, and Neil, who played
an important part in the story of the life of Angus Du.

Upon the death of his uncle Hugh, the young chief
assumed the reins of government, well prepared by his
guardian in all the accomplishments of the period to govern
and lead men in peace and war. He soon proved himself
to be no ordinary leader of men. From the associations he
had formed, and the influence he had acquired in the earlier

HISTORY. 19

years of his rule, we find him to have been a young man of
great capacity, attaining within the three northern counties
an ascendancy second only to the Lord of the Isles, when
that potentate rebelled against the Regent of Scotland, to
assert his pretended right to the Earldom of Ross, during
the long imprisonment of James I. in England.

The Munro, Ross, and other clans in that Earldom
were on the side of the Regent, and were not well inclined
to the Lord of the Isles Instigated probably by the Regent,
these clans formed a confederacy to resist the pretensions of
the turbulent Lord of the Isles, who had been plotting with
the King of England to divide Scotland between them.
Angus I)u was appealed to for assistance, lieing the most
powerful of the confederates, he was elected to command in
chief, and thus became " leader of 4000 men.'' The Lord
of the Isles, informed of this confederacy, resolved at once
to force these refractory clans into submission. Collecting
an army in the I^les, he invaded Ross, and came up to his
opponents at Dingwall, where after a stubborn conflict he
defeated them, and took Angus Du prisoner. The defeated
Ross-shire clans were obliged to submit, and Angus Du was
confined in Caisteal Tirrim. Situated as he then was, the
Lord of the Isles was politic enough to pert:eive that the
friendship of so influential a chief would be a great accession
of strength to himself, in keeping possession of Ross against
the wiles of the Regent; he therefore proposed to set him at
liberty, give him his sister TLli/abeth in marriage, and endow
them with large grants of land, the superiority of which he
possessed in right of his wife, the (Countess of Ross.

An agreement upon these terms was effected. Angus
Du was liberated, and married the sister of I )onald of the

20 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY CX)UNTRY.

Isles and the famous Alistair " Carrach," at Caisteal Tirrim,
and returned with his wife to Tongue. A charter (14 14-15)
confirmed to them those lands, on the south west of Suther-
land, extending from the church lands of Skibo to the
confines of Assynt, and thence to Lochbroom, and on the
north coast, the whole of Strath Halladale.

Angus Du life-rented these lands to his cousins Thomas,
Morgan, and Neil, the sons of his uncle Neil. To Thomas
he assigned Strath Halladale, Pulrossie, and Criech to the
river Shin ; to Morgan, the whole of Strathoykell ; and to Neil
all the Ross-shire lands.

Such an extensive acquisition of territory adjoining his
own patrimonial estates gave the Mackay chief a preponder-
ance of power and influence much superior to the Earl of
Sutherland, — anything but agreeable to him — and moreover
a source of great disquietude, as his own territory was now
surrounded on three sides by those of the Mackay chief, who
in reality became ** Angus the absolute" in the county, in
point of territory and command of men. Thus, Robert
Earl of Sutherland, became extremely jealous of the martial
Mackay chief. He was aware he could not openly counter-
act his influence, but what could not be done by force might
be accomplished by underhand policy, in fomenting quarrels
and disturbances in that lawless age. The Earl had willing
allies in the Murrays in Sutherland, and his own relatives,
and the Mo watts in Caithness, who begaH to make incursions
into Strath Halladade. Thomas Mackay accused Mowatt
of fostering or permitting such raids, and demanded redress.
Mowatt haughtily refused. Thomas, being some time after-
ward in Criech, where he generally resided, heard of Mowatt
having passed southward with a retinue of men ; he pursued

HISTORY. 2 1

him, and overtook him near Tain. Redress of the injuries
complained of was again demanded and refused, swords were
drawn, Mowatt was slain, and his followers took refuge in
St Duffus' chapel. The infuriated Mackays pursued them
and set fire to the chapel. This atrocity was reported to the
Regent, who declared Thomas Mackay an outlaw, his possess-
ions, goods, and chattels forfeited, and offered as a reward
for his apprehension. The difficulty was, who would dare
do it. Angus Du would not apprehend his own near relative.
The Earl of Sutherland was not anxious to embroil himself
with the Mackays, but a fitting instrument was found in
Angus Murray of Pulrossie, who had two daughters of whom
Thomas Mackay's brothers, Morgan and Neil were enam-
oured. Angus Murray consulted the Earl, who promised
him his protection; he then cajoled the two brothers to assist
him, promising them his two daughters in marriage, and
sharing with them their brother's forfeited property. The
unnatural miscreants assented. Their brother was inveigled
into Angus Murray's poyt'er, taken to Inverness and there
executed. Murray and they had their reward, but neither of
them long enjoyed the fruits of their perfidy.

Meanwhile, the Caithness folk and friends of Mowatt,
indignant at one of their lairds being slain by Thomas
Mackay, made several raids into Strath Halladale, consider-
ing his forfeited property fair plunder, but continuing them
too far into Angus Du's own territory in Farr, the redoubt-
able old chief was provoked to make reprisals. Gathering
together his men and taking his young son Neil wRh him,
he marched into Caithness, and at Harpsdale, a few miles
from Thurso, met the whole forces of Caithness. A furious
battle soon began, fought out with equal valour, and in the

22 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

end the Caithness men were overthrown with great slaughter;
many members of the best families in the county fell in this
engagement. Loud complaints from Caithness reached
King James I., who a few years previously had returned from
his captivity in England, and having many more similar com-
plaints from various quarters of the Highlands, he determined
to summon all the Highland chiefs to meet him at Inverness,
(1427). Some of these he ordered to be executed forthwith,
others he imprisoned, and a few men, amongst whom was
the Mackay chief, upon their justifying their acts, he forgave
and released, upon giving their eldest sons as hostages.
This was a device of James to get the heirs of the Highland
chiefs into his' possession, and near his court to be educated
and "civilized" as he himself had been at the English
court, and so make them better subjects, and more amenable
to law and order when permitted to return home. The
Mackay chief gave the King his eldest son and heir, Neil,
who for a time was imprisoned in the Bass, under the care
and tutelage of Sir Robert Lauder, a relative. Ever after
this young chief was nicknamed Neil Wass (Neil of the
Bass).

Angus Murray, now in possession of Strath Halladale
and Criech, still plotted against Angus I)u, whose brother-in-
law, Donald Lord of the Isles, was now dead, and Alexander
his successor, and cousin of Angus, under the ban of the
crown, and his own son and heir prisoner in the Bass, whose
return was uncertain. He thought it a fitting opportunity to
carry out his scheme of getting entire possession of the
Reay country, in which he was encouraged by Robert, Earl
of Sutherland. He was well aware that his sons-in-law,
Morgan and Neil Mackay, had incurred the hatred of their

HISTORY. 23

near relative and chief Angus Du, for the base and unnatural
part they acted in the apprehension of their brother Thomas,
and representing to them the old age of their father's
nephew, the uncertainty of his son's ever returning from the
Bass, he prevailed upon them to lay claim to the succession,
and immediate surrender to them of the inheritance which
was now their right, as nearest heirs. This illegal demand
Angus Du well knew to be supported by influences of a
dangerous nature He was now from his years less able to
lead his men in battle, he also considered that his son and
heir was a hostage, and that it was imperative upon him to
keep the King's peace, he therefore offered to surrender to
his ungrateful cousins some of his territority, reserving to
himself the district of Kintail, the original patrimony. This
great concession was declined.

Angus Murray now persuaded them to enforce their
demands by the sword. He consulted the Earl of Suther-
land, who promised him his assistance, or as Sir R. Gordon
puts it, "they had Earl Robert his attollerance."

Intelligence reached Angus Du that an invasion of his
country was in preparation. The aged hero was astonished ;
he consulted his head men, and his young son Ian Abrach,
as his clansmen then named him from having been reared by
his mother's relatives in Lochaber, and still delight to keep
his name in remembrance as the hero of the clan. The
resolution come to was, to defend the territory and the honour
of their chief and clan to the last extremity, or die in their
defence.

The fiery cross was sent through every hamlet, clansmen
were aroused and prepared to resist the threatened invasion
to the uttermost. This stern determination of his men

HISTORY. 25

roused in the old warrior chief much of the animation of his
younger days. Scouts and spies were sent into Sutherland
to observe and report upon the movements going on. It
was soon ascertained that Angus Murray and his coadjutors
were gathering men from all quarters, and a day had been
appointed to march into the Reay country to take possession.
The veteran old chief, like Bruce before his day, now looked out
for an advantageous position near Tongue, upon which his
comparatively few men could oppose the superior numbers
of the invaders in a defensive battle. His practised eye
soon marked out Druim-na-cupa, two miles south of Tongue,
on the shortest track to it from the south. There were no
roads in those days. There was, however, a doubt as to the
actual route the invaders might choose, and a party was
posted on the south face of Ben Loyal to watch. From this
point a view of the whole country round was obtained for
miles in front and flanks. The approach of the invaders was
reported inclining to the direct route to Tongue. There was
no longer any doubt. The Mackay commanders marshalled
their men in compact order on the upper slopes of Druim-
na-cupa, sending forward a detachment to the gorge of a pass
in front, to conceal themselves in a copse on the side of the
pass and attack the rear of the enemy in coming through
it. These arrangements made, Ian Abrach and the other
commanders entreated the aged chief to retire to the top of
the ridge, where he could survey the impending conflict and
be out of harm's way. He consented, and relinquished the
command to his gallant young son.

The invaders were seen advancing through the pass, in a
disorderly manner, leaders in front, as if there was no danger
of opposition. Emerging from the pass, and seeing only a

! J

26 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

small compact body of Mackays right in front, they thotight
they were marching to an easy victory. One of the leaders
shouted, " come on, we shall soon shackle those calves," to
which another replied, " look out for yourself, the calves
may jump too high for you to shackle them."

The van of the invaders rushed across the intervening
hollow and advanced up the slope to the onset in desultory
order. They were firmly and fiercely met by Ian Abrach
and his men. Their front ranks, out of breath, soon bit the
dust, the next met with no better fate, but still the fight was
continued, the Sutherland men fighting resolutely as they came
up. Meanwhile the party in ambush attacked the rear going
through the pass. So sudden and unexpected was this
attack that the disorderly resistance made was unavailing, and
the party of scouts coming up from the rear at nearly the
same time and falling in on the flanks, this portion of the
invaders was nearly, if not wholly annihilated. The victors
in the pass now pushed on to the aid of their countrymen
fighting the main battle. They fell upon the left rear and
flank of the enemy, but the Sutherland men still fought on with
their accustomed bravery. They were, however, outgeneraled,
their leaders slain, numbers were of no avail, and taken now
in front, flank, and left rear, the survivors fled away to their
right up the slopes of the northern end of Ben Loyal, pur-
sued by the Mackays for some miles, till, it is said, the last
man of them was slain at Ath-charrie.

Such was the battle of Druim-na-cupa, the "Bannock-
burn " of the Reay country, and as momentous to it in its
results. Sir R. Gordon is obliged to admit in his " Earldom
of Sutherland," "the memory of this * skirmish* remaineth
in that country (Reay country) with the posterity to this day,*

28 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

face of the rock beneath Castle Varrich is named in the
vernacular, " the hidden bed of John Abrach." Sutherland
had received such a blow by the issue of the battle of Druim-
na-cupa, that peace was preserved between the two clans for
a century, till the advent of the Gordons into Sutherland
The differences of the Mackays in the meantime were with
the people of Caithness, in which as we shall see they still
proved their prowess and superiority in fighting.

After the fighting on the slopes of Druim-na-cupa was
over, and the whole survivors of the Mackays were in pursuit
of the flying Sutherland men,, as already noted, Angus Du
came upon the field to view the slain, wounded, and dying.
He soon recognised Angus Murray and his own two ungrate-
ful and unnatural cousins among the slain. While standing
contemplating the unhappy, though deserved fate that so
swiftly overtook their vile ingratitude, he was killed by an arrow
shot by a cowardly Sutherland man lurking in a bush near
the battlefield. Years after, this assassin was slain by
William Du, son of John Abrach and grandson of Angus
Du This important engagement took place about 143 1.

In consequence of its decisive and signal result John
Abrach was greatly distinguished in the north. Young as
he was he governed his clan with a firm and judicious hand,
and preserved the peace during the absence of his elder
brother in the Bass. He made himself so much beloved by
the people that they solicited him to assume the chiefship,
as it was uncertain whether or not his brother would ever
return, but the loyal and gallant young man declined all such
solicitations as derogatory to himself, and to his heroic father,
and exiled brother kept in durance by the will of the King,
us a hostage for the maintenance of peace. John Abrach,

30 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

cation given by the people of Caithness, he and his brother
John Abrach collected their forces and marched into Caith-
ness to punish them. They left a reserve force at Sandside,
and went further into the country, gathering a great spoil,
with which they returned. The Caithness men overtook
them at Downreay, when a fierce conflict took place. The
Caithness men had the worst of it and fled, pursued by the
Mackays to the river Forse, when a large number of Caith-
ness men w^ere seen speedily marching to the aid of their
countrymen. The Mackays retired upon their reserve ;
coming up to them, they again faced their foes and a most
desperate engagement was began, which ended in the com-
plete rout of the men of Caithness, who were pursued, with
great slaughter, for three miles. This event is locally known
as **The Sandside chase."

Neil of the Bass died about 1450, and by his wife, a lady
of the Munro clan, left two sons, Angus and John Roy.
Angus succeeded his father and lived in peace till about
1464, when broils broke out in Caithness between the Keiths
of Ackergill and the clan Gunn. The Gunns prepared for
war, and many other districts of Caithness espoused their
cause. The Keith, mistrustful of his own ability to cope
with the Gunns and their allies, applied to his friend Mackay
for aid, which was readily granted. Collecting all the men
he could, he made a forced march of thirty miles through
Caithness and joined the Keiths. The hostile forces met on
the moor of Tannach, three miles from Wick, where a most
desperate engagement ensued, attended with great slaughter
on each side. At length victory declared itself for the Keiths
and Mackays, chiefly through the extraordinary prowess of
a herculean Mackay delighting in the euphonious appellation

HISTORY. 31

of John Mor-Mac-Ian Riabhaich Mackay, who with a battle-
axe proportionate to his strength, cut down every opponent
who came within its reach ; but this decisive battle did not
terminate the differences between the Keiths and the Gunns.

Meanwhile peace was maintained between the Sutherlands
and Mackays, but during the rule of Earl John in Sutherland,
1455, the MacDonalds of Glengarry to the number of some
hundreds made an irruption into Sutherland and encamped
at Skibo. They began to maraud and gather spoil. Before
they did much harm the Sutherlands and Murrays were upon
them and defeated them. A year or two afterwards a larger
party of them penetrated into Sutherland as far as Strath-
fleet; but the gallant Murrays were not far off They (juickly and
quietly gathered men enough to give them battle, in which
the MacDonald marauders were again defeated and chased
away as far as Bonar. This was the last raid made by the
MacDonalds into Sutherland in any numbers, but from
tradition and songs sung by the old inhabitants com-
memorating smaller marauding incidents in after years, it is
evident they had been continued.

About 1475, Angus, the Mackay chief, it is recorded, was
burnt by the Rosses of Balnagown in the church of Tarbet,
probably on account of some raids he had made into Eastern
Ross in conjunction with the MacKenzies, when letters of
fire and sword enjoined them to proceed against the Earl of
Ross, Lord of the Isles, who was at the time under the ban
of the Crown. This murder was avenged a few years after
by John, the son and successor of Angus, who invaded
Strathoykell and at AUta-charrish defeated the Rosses of
Balnagown with great loss, no less than seventeen landed
proprietors of Ross were killed, and as usual a great booty

♦.«

'^ 32 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

carried away. The Mackays in this battle were led, under
the command of the chief, by William Du, son of the
renowned John Abrach. After the battle, an incident
occurred as to the division of the spoil, which evinced the
noble spirit and character of the gallant son of a gallant
father. There was a contingent of Assynt men and another
of Sutherland men, assisting the Mackays. The Assynt men
proposed to the Mackay chief to slay the Sutherland men
that they might not participate in the booty. When William
Du heard of the infernal proposal he immediately went to
the Sutherland commander, advised him of it, and asked him
to stand to his arms and wait for him while he got his own
contingent ready to come to his protection. This was done
forthwith. The plot was foiled and the spoil was fairly
divided. The Assynt men got their share and marched
away. William Du and the Sutherland men left together for
their homes to the great satisfaction of both. From this
incident arose the saying, " Ceartas nan Abrich " (the justice
of the Abrachs; fair play to all). The date given of this
event is 1478.

John Riabhach Mackay died about 1495, ^"^ ^^^
succeeded by his brother lye, or Hugh 2nd. He was held
in great esteem by James 4th, who in 1499 commissioned
him to apprehend Sutherland of Dilred, for the murder of
Sir James Dunbar. This commission the Mackay chief per-
formed to the satisfaction of the King, who by charter, dated
4th November, 1499, granted him all Sutherland's lands in
Caithness and Sutherland, Armadile, Strathy, Rynevie, Ken-
auld, Gollespy, Kilcalmkill, Dilred, &c. The prompt
execution of this commission recommended him to the spirited
King for a^more difficult one in 1506, to apprehend Macl^od

HISTORY. 33

of I-fCwis. This was effected with equal expedition and
success, and a charter was granted him by the King, of lands
in Assynt and Ross.

From 1 43 1, (date of the battle of Druim-na-cupa) to a few
years after the battle of Flodden, 1 5 1 3, when the death of
James IV. threw the whole of Scotland into disorder and
anarchy, there was internal tranquillity and peace in Sutherland,
with the exception of the MacDonald irruptions. During this
period the chiefs of Sutherland took little or no part in war
or politics. They were content to stay at home controlling
their private affairs, keeping their men in order, and leaving
the southern nobles to foment and compose their own quarrels,
and make their periodical raids over the borders with little
credit to themselves, and less credit to their prowess or
generalship.

The advent of the Gordons into Sutherland by the
marriage of Elizabeth, eldest daughter of John Earl of
Sutherland, in 1500, with Adam Gordon, second son of the
Earl of Huntly, had a dire effect on the whole of Sutherland,
the Reay Country, and Caithness, for more than a century
after the battle of Flodden. Earl John died in 1508, and
was succeeded by his son John, the last of the Freskyn race,
in the male line, a young man of easy disposition, caring little
for business and leaving all his affairs to the control of others,
chiefly to Adam Gordon, his brother-in-law, which was very
galling to the native gentlemen of the county, always jealous of
the interference of strangers. This young Earl had two half-
brothers, Alexander and George, whose mother was a daughter
of Ross of Balnagown, his own mother being a daughter of
the Lord of the Isles. It was pretended that these two
brothers were bastards, their father being only handfasted to

?\ 34 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

•

the Balnagown lady. Adam Gordon soon aspired to the
Earldom, seeing that the young Earl, as he thought, was un-
fit to govern, and unlikely to marry. Sir Robert Gordon
says "he begines to lay a foundation to settle that estate
upon himself and to his successors by the lawes of the King-
dome, for besyds himself there was Alexander Sutherland,
thi * bastard ' brother of this Erie John, that pretended some
right to the Erledome." Alexander was a young man, a
minor. Adam Gordon took him to Aboyne, induced him to
renounce all rights to the Earldom, and took legal proceed-
ings to procure the succession to his wife.

Meanwhile the disastrous Battle of Flodden took place,
so fatal to the King, nobility and Kingdom of Scotland. It
threw the government of the country into the hands of a
weak Regency, and the control of a turbulent and unscrupu-
lous oligarchy. This was advantageous to the designs and
ambitious aspirations of Adam Gordon. Next year, 15 14,
he procured the Earl, his brother-in-law, to be decerned an
idiot unfit to rule, and his own wife to be declared his heir
and successor. Earl John died soon after, and in 15 15
Adam Gordon became Earl of Sutherland, in right of his
wife.

Now began a century of turmoil, disorder and violence,
plots, counter-plots and intrigues, feuds, raids, battles,
spoliations, ravages, mutual hatred and aniniosity, triangular
fighting between the three principal races in the two counties,
Sutherlands, Murrays, and Gordons in the south, Mackays
in the north, and Sinclairs in the east. Well might Sir
Robert Gordon say "In 15 16 Adam, Earl of Southerland,
forseing great trubles liklie to fall furth in his countrey, he
entered in familiaritie and friendship with John Sinckler,

mK^K

!»*» , , .

he
R.

^^^^^L .,-,

■he limn wean a Bil lionntl. on wliich lh= .1.111 l.i.k.' 1- .li,i.l.L,<-,!...,i,
u|lc't feubcr. Tb< doublel, ur ja.:b.;l. i^ ^( >ii^.«e ^<L.lh li,..i.c.ly II

i> itnli MojniMd M pKUliar lo Ibc Clan Aodh. iht bngt uc molnch o
hide, fnm »bich ihe hair it not nmoved : Ihc twnrd and arg< arc of

36 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRV.

Earl of Catteynes for assisting him against his enemies." To
cement this familiarity and friendship he gave Caithness a
charter for *' ten davachs " of land east side of Helmsdale
river, but says Sir Robert, ** he keipt the lands bot joyned
afterwards Earle Adam his foes." These two Earles then
set to work to create d'ssensions amongst the Mackays as
to the succession on the death of lye, the Mackay chief, in
15 16. They succeeded for some time in their machinations,
but the Mackays perceiving that their ruin was intended,
composed the succession differences entered into an
alliance with Caithness, and in revenge for Earl Adam's
treachery, were soon on the " war-path,*' invading Sutherland
with varying success till 1529, when Donald Mackay, the
second son of lye and brother of John, succeeded.

Meanwhile, in 1518, Alexander Sutherland, the rightful
heir who had been supplanted by Earl Adam, raised a revolt
against him. "The clans and trybes of the countrie were
hierupon broken into factions. Alexander had gained a
great favour among them, he was followed by manie,
and manteyned by the Earl of Catteynes and Macky."
Alexander so far succeeded as to cause the Gordons to fly to
Strathbogie, took the castle of Dunrobin, and for a short
time kept possession of it. He now married the sister of
the Mackay chief, and during his absence in Strathnaver a
party of Gordons sent from Aboyne, assisted by the Murrays,
retook Dunrobin. Thereupon Alexander invaded Suther-
land. The Gordons surprised him on the links of Brora,
defeated his small force, and being taken prisoner, he was
immediately killed, his head cut off and placed in triumph
on the highest pinnacle of Dunrobin Castle. The descen-
dants of this Alexander Sutherland resided afterwards at

HISTORY. 37

Kilpheder, above Helmsdale, and were noted for generations
for their great size and strength. The last of them lived in
Edmburgh during the great law suit for the Earldom in
1782. It has been said that the guardians of the young
Countess, in the event of Sutherland of Forse, one of the
claimants, succeeding in establishing his claim, intended to
bring him forward as the true heir in the male line. The
Houhe of Lords having decided in favour of the Countess,
no more was heard of him, except that the Countess allowed
him a pension for the rest of his life.

In 1529 Djnald Mackay succeeded his brother John.
Peace was maintained by him while Earl Adam lived. Sir
Robert, contrary to his usual estimate of Mackay chiefs,
states that he *' was a politic and wise genilcman, a good
soldier and a valiant captain." This is great praise from Sir
Robert Gordon. This Mackay chief was in high favour wiih
James V. When Henry VHI. threatened invasion
James called out his feudal army. Amongst others Mackay
came with his contingent, and when at Falaniuir, noble Earls
and Lords refused to invade England, Lord Maxwell,
Mackay, and a few more stood by the King. He was
indignant, he remonstrated, he iin[)lored. All in vain; the
King, overwhelmed with disap|)ointment and chagrin, dis-
banded the army. Maxwell, Mackay, and others escorted
the King to Edinburgh. Some peers and barons, ashamed
of what hid happened, proposed to collect the loyal part 01
the army and invade England by the west coast. This was
agreed to, the army now consisting of only 10,000 men was
speedily and secretly on the march, accompanied by the
King as far as Caerlaverock. The army went on and
encamped on English ground, when the nobles refused to

38 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

proceed any further under the command of Oliver Sinclair.
While thus discussing and disputing, three hundred English
horsemen were amongst them full tilt with levelled lances.
A panic ensued, a rout followed, few were killed, but
upwards of 1000 men, and some peers and barons, were
made prisoners.

Mackay and others on their return from this disgraceful
affair picked up the King at Caerlaverock, and accompanied
him to Edinburgh. James, grateful to Mackay for his
courage and steadfast lo>alty, conferred upon him several
estates, and within a month died of a broken heart.

The untimely death of the young King again threw
Scotland into a regency and disorder. The nobles ran riot,
and the whole country was convulsed by aristocratic factions,
each one of them for himself or party, none for the State.

The Mackay chief on his return, finding that the Suther-
lands had committed several depredations upon his people
in his absence, was again on the "war-path," invaded
Sutherland several times, and though repelled appeared
again fresh and willing to fight and retaliate.

The bishop of the diocese, brother of Lennox, was called
to the south ; before leaving he gave the charge of his lands
in Caithness to the Earl of Caithness, and of his Sutherland
lands to Donald, the Mackay chief. This was exceedingly
irritating to Sutherland, but he was unable to prevent it.
Caithness took possession of the bishop's seat at Scrabster ;
Mackay took Skibo by force and placed a garrison in it. In
the meantime the Earl of Huntly was made " Lieutenant of
the North;*' Sutherland being his relative applied to him for
assistance. Unable to encompass their wishes by force they
resorted to fraud and policy. Hundy advised Sutherland to

HISTORY. 39

marry the bishop's sister, who was then a young widow,
which he did. The bishop granted to Sutherland and to his
son of this marriage all the rents of his lands in Caithness
and Sutherland. Mackay would not give up Skibo without
an order from the bishop, not even to Huntly, who sent a
Captain CuUen to besiege it with some cannon from Leith.
Upon the appearance of the big guns the Mackay garrison
marched away to Strathnaver.

Huntly, now the "Cock o* the North," summoned
Caithness and Mackay to appear before him. They obeyed.
Caithness, not having shown any disobedience to Huntly's
orders, was set at liberty; Mackay, for his disobeying orders,
was confined in Foulis Castle, but Donald Mac-Ian-Mhor
Mackay, a Strathnaver man, soon set him at liberty and
returned with him to his own country.

Huntly and Sutherland tried all their arts and wiles to injure
the Mackay chief by misrepresentations to the Regent and
Parliament. They were successful for a time, but a succeeding
government redressed the injuries done, and repealed the
acts obtained by Huntly and Sutherland in their own favour.

Donald Mackay died about 1550, and was succeeded by
his son lye or Hugh. This young chief, in his father's life-
time, was sent in command of a Mackay contingent to
oppose the English raids on the borders. He was in that
Highland brigade at the Battle of Pinkie, 1547, who, says
Buchanan, ** after the Scots army were fleeing, gathered
themselves in a round body, kept their ranks and returned
safe home. At first they marched through craggy places
and inconvenient for the horse, and if they were sometimes
obliged to descend into the plain, yet the English horsemen
who followed them durst not attack them.''

40 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

lye no sooner succeeded his father than his ruin and
that of his house and clan, was projected at the instance of
Sutherland and Huntly. They represented that his father
was illegitimate, and for that and other reasons his estates
stood escheated to the Crown. Mackay kept possession.
He was summoned before the Queen Regent, but refused to
appear, considering it unsafe to place himself in the hands of
Huntly and Sutherland, who were with Her Majesty.
In consequence of this refusal the Queen Regent granted a
commission to the Earl of Sutherland against the Mackay
chief and his clan.

Assisted by Huntly, Sutherland raised an overwhelming
force, and for the first time an Earl of Sutherland ventured
to invade the Reay country. He marched into Strath naver,
** sacking and spoiling in all hostile manner,'* and besieged
the castle of Borve, which after a short siege he took, and
hanged the commander, Rory Mac-Ian-Mhor.

Meanwhile the Mackay chief, like a good general, unable
to cope with his enemy in the field, made a flank march and
invaded Sutherland into its most fertile parts, defeated the
Sutherlands who opposed him in the heights of Loth, and
burnt the church and all who sought refuge within. The
Earl tried to intercept him, but in vain, and the grand cam-
paign ended in no result. Shortly after, dreading Huntly's
overpowering influence, the Mackay chief, after placing his
country and affairs under the management of John Mor Mac-
kay, his cousin, went away to Edinburgh, voluntarily gave him-
self up to the Queen Regent, who was much preposs ssed in his
favour. Several of the noblemen of her court were also
favourable to him, such as Lord James, step son of the
Queen Regent, Argyll, Huntly's bitter foe, Glencairn and

t I

: »

li.

42 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Cassilis. Mackay had disobeyed her commands, and for
that act of disobedience he must be made to see the error of
his ways. He was imprisoned, therefore, for a short time, but
was soon afterwards released, and to please her Majesty he
offered her his services in the border warfare then going on,
and likely to become more serious. A command was given
him. and he acted so gallantly as to acquire some renown,
for Sir Robert admits that '' he served diverse times in the
wars upon the borders against the English, in the which
service he behaved himself valiantly."

Meanwhile, John Mor Mackay, nothing daunted by past
events, invaded Sutherland, spoiling and raiding, and burnt
the chapel of St. Ninian in Navidale. He was surprised in
his encampment on Garvary water in the early misty morning,
and suffered a reverse.

lye Mackay now returned, and established a peace with
the Earl of Sutherland, which lasted during Earl John's
life-time.

^^^^^^L^ HISTORY, Part
^^^^^^^^^^ Bv Rev. Adam Gl'nn, M.A., Durness.

^^^^^^^P A tumult broke out soon after lye Mackay's return among
^^^^H^ the MacLeods of Dumess. Tormot, their chief, was killed

^^^^H

^^^^^H TOMBSTONE ON URAVE OF MURCHADH MACLEOD.

^^^^^^H by Mackay's orders, and out of revenge for this and other
^^^^^^H insults, they rebelled ; but the outbreak was soon quelled,
^^^^H and three of their leaders beheaded. This branch of the
^^^^^^^ MacLeods was known as "sliochd lain-nihoir," and were a
^^^^^^H fierce and turbulent race. The Mackays had given Durness
^^^^^^H to them in consideration of services rendered to the clan
^^^^^H by the MacLeods of Assynt on several occasions. They
^^^^^H aided the Mackays at the battle of Tonan-dubh-riabhach
^^^^H 1517. when lain-mor-mac-lain, a son of the MacLeod of

44 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Assynt, barely escaped. This lan-mor had a son, Murchadh,
who was chieftain of the sept in Durness ; he was father of
Donald, to whom lye's son, Hugh, life-rented the lands of
Westmoin. His grave may be seen in Balnakil Church,
Durness ; and traditional tales of his boldness and ferocity
survive among the inhabitants to the present day.

It was during lye's chief ship that the Reformation was
established by Act of Parliament, 1560. John, Earl of
Sutherland, and ver)' probably lye himself, were unfavourable
to the cause. The thoroughness of the Reformation in
Scotland was due entirely to the common people; the
territorial magnates had no scruples in changing sides,
whenever their own interests were in danger. Sutherland,
along with Huntly and Caithness, were devoted to Queen
Mary and the Popish religion ; but the Earl of Murray, who
was half-brother to the Queen, and had an eye to the Crown
for himself, made the country unsafe for them ; so after the
defeat at Corrichy, and Huntly's death, the Earl of Suther-
land escaped to Flanders, where he remained until 1565,
when he was recalled by Mary to take up arms against
Murray's faction.

During these troubles, the Mackay chief does not appear
to have made himself obnoxious to either party. He
repaired to Inverness in 1562, to meet Queen Mary; and for
his loyalty on this occasion his crime of 1548 was forgiven him.
Now was his opportunity of obtaining a renewal of his
father's charters, but he neglected to do this at the time.
In less than four years thereafter, young Huntly, cousin of
the Earl of Sutherland, was gifted by Queen Mary with lye
Mackay's lands, and parliament ratified this grant. A most
unnatural conspiracy seems to have been formed against him

snd his wife were poisoned at Helmsdale, in the house of
Isobel Sinclair, a cousin of the Earl of Caithness. The latter
was suspected of being instigator of this crime.

lye Mackay retained possession of his lands, and the
successor of Earl John, being yet a minor, fell into the hands
of Caithness, his h

46 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

This gave lye an opportunity of settling accounts with
the House of Sutherland. He invaded Sutherland in 1567,
wasted the barony of Skibo, and burnt the town of Dornoch,
which was held chiefly by the Murrays. The dissensions of
the country both in Church and State, were such that no
redress could be had at the time. The protection of
Sutherland naturally devolved on Caithness, who had obtained
the wardship of Alexander Gordon, the young Earl. He
gave the latter L#ady Barbara Sinclair, his eldest daughter, to
wife. This was an ill match, the lady was thirty-two years,
and young Sutherland not fifteen. He subsequently divorced
her, on the ground of too much familiarity with lye Mackay.
The Earl gave another of his daughters to the Laird of
Duffus, and on his death she married Hugh Mackay, lye's
son, who succeeded his father. Caithness became a great
power in the North in this way, both by intrigue and alliances.
Huntly b^an to fear for the safety of his cousin. Earl
Alexander. Though the young Earl was kindly treated,
fears were entertained by his friends that Earl George coveted
Sutherlandshire for himself, and if he could only get Alex-
ander out of the way, his son would marry Lady Margaret
Gordon, the young Earl's sister, and succeed to the estates.
Rumours reached Huntly of the state of matters. The Earl
of Caithness dwelt at Dunrobin now; the Murrays, Gordons,
and Gunns had to clear out of the county, as they were ever
faithful to the House of Sutherland. But in 1569, the
Murrays secured the person of the young Earl, and placed
him under Huntly's protection. Earl George, however, clung
to the wardship, three years of which had yet to run. It
was possible in that time to do material damage to the
interests of the House of Sutherland, if no check were placed

HISTORY. 47

■

upon his conduct. Huntly accordingly began to make

friends with Mackay, and to stir him up against Caithness in

favour of Sutherland. His claims over Mackay*s lands were •

not enforced. He sold Mackay, for ^£^300 Scots money, his ^

heritable right to Strathnaver — retaining only the superiority

— which he afterwards granted to the Earl of Sutherland.

This was in 1570.

■

Earl George's plans were thus frustrated. He began to
suspect Mackay and his own son John, of plotting against
him. The two of them were wiled to Girnigo Castle ; John
was seized, fettered, and cast into the dungeon, where after

many years he was famished to death. Mackay made a i

hasty retreat into Strathnaver, and in less than four months
thereafter, died, leaving his lands to his son Hugh, then only
eleven years of age.

lye was twice married, first to his cousin, daughter of
Hugh MacLeod of Assynt, by whom he had two sons,
Donald Mackay of Scourie, and John Beg Mackay ; and
secondly to Christian Sinclair, cousin of (George, Earl of
Caithness, by whom he had two sons and three daughters,
Hugh, who succeeded him, and William Mackay of Big-
house : Ellenora, his eldest daughter, married Donald Bane

Macl^od of Assynt, the second married Alexander Suther- J

land of Berriedale, and the third, Alexander, chief of the clan
Gunn. The latter was beheaded at Inverness by the Earl of
Murray, for his audacity in the town of Aberdeen, when as a
follower of the Earl of Caithness, he refused to yield " the
top of the street " to Earl Murray and his retainers.

During Hugh Mackay^s minority, John More, of the
Abrach clan, managed the estate, but this did not suit the
Earl of Caithness' designs. The succession belonged to

4H St'THKkLAMIi AMD THK KKAY COUNTRY.

Donalrly lye'n eldest »on, and the Abrachs favoured his clainL
Hut CaithneHH favoured the son of his cousin, and having
juhtiriary |>ower, declared the sons of lye, by his first wife,
bastards, their parents l>eing cousins. Accordingly, he
resolved to remove John Mor from his charge. This he
accomplished with the aid of the MacI>eods of Durness, who
seized John and conveyed him to (iirnigo Castle, where he
soon died. He was succeeded in the management by John
Heg Mactkay Donald's brother. He was a wise and
peaceable man, and kept on good terms with Earl George,
and allowed the heir, Hugh Mackay and his brother William,
to remain with (Caithness to their no small advantage. About
1578, Hugh nmrried the daughter of Caithness, widow of the
l^ird of Duffus.

'I'he Clan Abrach resented the interference of Caithness,
and were not satisfied that Donald's claims were fairly con-
sidered. Neil, their chief, was a man of great personal and
mental powers, *' bold, crafty, of very good wit, and quick
resolution," according to Sir Rol)ert Cordon. He began to
oppose the n\easurcs of (Caithness, and to see justice done to
Donald, who was reared by the Abrachs. Caithness there-
upon instigated the MacLeods of Durness to invade Neil
and spoil his lamls, but they were defeated with loss. Neil
thereafter attacked the MacLeods of lialnakil, and slew the
greater \m\yX of them. John Beg, l)eing the nominee of
Caithness, can\e to their assistance, and although Neil had
given strict orders to sjwre him, he was accidently slain.
This crealeil a misunderstanding among members of the clan,
which ci>ntinued for a long lime, and was injurious to both
iwrties. The Abrachs joineil issue with the house of Suther-
land, in order to defeat the designs of Caithness on the Reay

(

50 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Country. The Gunns who had always fought in the past
under the banners of Mackay and Sutherland, transferred
their allegiance to Caithness, and a deadly feud between
them and the clan Abrach ensued, which resulted in the
slaughter of the best fighting men in Sutherland and Caith-
ness. So long, so deadly, so inveterate was the feud, that
Gordon draws a veil over "the horrible encounters'* and
bloodshed betw^een these two tribes.

In 1583 George, Earl of Caithness, died, and Hugh
Mackay, his son-in-law, took the management of the Reay
Country into his own hands. The Earl of Sutherland
obtained from Huntly the superiority of Strath naver, and the
heritable sheriffship of Sutherland and Strathnaver. By this
transaction he looked upon the Mackay chief as his vassal,
but he proved a refractory one. One of his first acts was to
go to the assistance of Donald Bane of Assynt, who had
married his sister, and was engaged meanwhile in making
war upon Neil Houcheonsone, commander in Assynt, and
the Earl of Sutherland's follower. The clan Gunn assisted
Hugh Mackay in this expedition, and it cost them dear, as
the sequel will show. Sutherland prepared at once to invade
Strathnaver and Caithness. The now Earl of Caithness was
George, grandson of the preceding, and a man equally bold
and unscrupulous. The Earl of Sutherland accused him of
harbouring the Gunns, and Mackay, of violating his rights
as his superior. But by the earnest mediation of friends a
meeting was appointed at Elgin, for repairing the alleged
wrongs of the Earl of Sutherland. Mackay was not present
at the meeting. The Earls were reconciled on the under-
standing that the Gunns should be exterminated, chiefly such
of them as resided in Caithness. No sooner had Caithness

HISTORY. 5 1

returned than he refused to yield them up to the Earl of
Sutherland, and Mackay was equally loth to betray the sept
of that clan which resided at Strathy. This duplicity of
Caithness incensed the Earl of Sutherland. Huntly came
north to Dunrobin to effect if possible a settlement. Earl
George was sent for, and he arrived duly, but Hugh Mackay
refused to put in an appearance, for which he was denounced
rebel. Two companies of men were dispatched against the
Gunns in Caithness and the Rcay Country. The Sutherland
men directed their force against the latter, but on their march
they fell in with a body of Mackays, under the command of
the chief's brother, William of Bighouse, who were carrying
away James Macrory's cattle out of Corrie-Kinloch. A fight
ensued, and there being only a small contingent of Mackays,
the Sutherland men pursued them to the bounds of Caith-
ness. Here the retreating party came upon the Gunns, who
had assembled to a man to resist the Caithness force. They
resolved to join issues, and live or die together. The Caith-
ness host was in sight of them, led by the Earl's brother,
Henry Sinclair. William Mackay's advice was to turn upon
the Sutherland men first, who were weary with fighting. But
the Gunns preferred to attack the Caithness men, being the
stronger force. Although much inferior in numbers, they
had the advantage of the hill, and rushing down the slope,
and reserving their arrows until they were close upon the
enemy, they completely routed the Caithness force, and slew
140 of their number. This is known as the ** Conflict of
Aldgowne," 1586 A.D. Gordon says that the Sutherland
men who were in the neighbourhood, knew nothing of the
fight until it was over, and they quietly retreated by night
with such booty as they captured. Henry Sinclair, the Earl's

52 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

brother, was among the slain. Caithness was highly enraged
at the issue of this battle, and displeased with the Sutherland
men for not coming to the rescue. Out of revenge, he
hanged John Mac-Ian-macRob, chief of the Gunns, whom he
had allured to Girnigo Castle a short time before the out-
break of hostilities.

Thereupon Huntly sent Sir Patrick Gordon of Achindoun
to reconcile the Earls a second time, and to deal with
Mackay for harbouring the Gunns. The parties met at Ben
Grime; Sutherland agreed to invade them first with two
companies,. *^as the Earl Caithness his forces wer latelie
overthrowen by them." He prevailed upon the Abrach
branch, and the MacLeods of Durness to assist him. The
Sutherland forces were under the leadership of William
Sutherland, George Gordon, and Hugh Murray of Abercross.
Hugh Mackay, the chief, recognised the hopelessness of
affording the Gunns further shelter, and he discharged them
from his country. The Gunns now set out for the Western
Isles, but they were ovei taken at Leckmeln, Ross -shire,
where after a sharp skirmish they were overthrown and
mostly all slain. Their captain, George Gunn, brother of
MacRob, saved himself for a time by swimming in a loch
near by, but being sorely wounded he was finally captured
and delivered to the Earl of Caithness. After a time he was
released, and the scattered remnants of the clan found their
way back to their ancestral homes. Mackay must have
restored them to their holdings in Strathnaver, for eight
years afterwards we find James Sinclair of Murkle revenging
his brother's death, by invading the Strathy Gunns by night
and slaying some of them.

HISTORY. 53

Hugh now tried to reconcile the factions of his clan.
Without the aid of the Abrachs he could not hold his own
in the vicinity of such men as the Earls of Sutherland and
Caithness. Therefore to appease them he granted the lands
of Eddrachillis to Donald, and Bighouse to William Mackay.
It was a wise policy, but not unattended with danger. This
Donald quickly invaded Hugh's uncle, the laird of Assynt,
and he soon found it necessary to escape to Earl George for
protection, in whose forces he fought against the Mackay
chief on a subsequent occasion.

In 1587 the Earls of Caithness and Sutherland were
again in arms. George Gordon, Garty, intercepted the Earl
of Caithness' servants on their way to Edinburgh, and cut off
their horses' tails — an indignity which Caithness felt very
keenly. He demanded redress of Sutherland, who dis-
claimed all connection with the offender. War was at once
declared. The forces met at Helmsdale. Caithness was
accompanied by Hugh Mackay, and John, Earl of Carrick,
the Earl of Orkney's brother. Sutherland had on his side
the laird of Mackintosh, the MacKenzies of Redcastle, the
MacLeods of Assynt, and the Munros. Mackintosh tried
hard to prevail on his friend Mackay to desert Caithness,
but he failed. By the intervention of friends the Earls were
reconciled, but Mackay was left out of the treaty. He went
home to his own country grieved at his betrayal by Caith-
ness, but resolved to own no allegiance to Sutherland. His
downfall was now plotted between the Earls, but Caithness
was not hearty in the matter. The upshot was the marriage of
Hugh, who had recently divorced his Caithness wife, with Lady
Jane, sister of the Earl of Sutherland, and a fresh combination
entered into by Mackay and Sutherland against Caithness.

54 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

An occasion was not long wanting for trying issues with
Earl George. The notorious Gordon was killed by Sinclair
of Mey. Sutherland complained to the King, obtained a
commission to apprehend Caithness and imprison him until
he gave up the offender. Accompanied by Mackay, Mac-
kintosh, the laird of Fowlis, Assynt and Gilcalm, Rasay, he
invaded Caithness, and drew up his camp against Girnigo

\ f^l^JiSi^

ARMS OK THE SUTHERLAND FAMILY.

Castle, where he remained twelve days. The inhabitants of
Caithness flew in all directions, many were slain, and a great
booty secured. The town of Wick was burnt with the
exception of the church, and Caithness was forcwl to come
to terms, appointing the Earl of Huntly as oversman. The
date of this invasion is February, 1589, and the occasion is
remembered as La-na-Creich-mor — the day of the great spoil.

HISTORY. 55

The invasion was followed by a series of mutual raids
and skirmishes. The most alarming reprisal was that of the
laird of Murkle, who, with 3000 men, entered StrathuUy.
Hugh Mackay happened to be at Dunrobin at the time, and
he set out with a party of men to make head against them,
until the Earl of Sutherland arrived with more forces. The
historian Gordon is loud in the praises of Mackay for his
bravery on this occasion, but it is a significant fact that his
bravery was never acknowledged by that partial observer
until after his alliance with the house of Sutherland.

The Earl of Huntly mediated between the Earls at
Elgin and a peace was concluded, but it was of short
duration. In 1590 Earl George invaded Sutherland with all
the forces he could muster. Fifteen hundred archers were
under the command of Donald Mackay of Scourie, who
fought on the Caithness side, and was the mainstay of the
Caithness army. Night put an end to the conflict, and on
the morrow Caithness discovered that Hugh Mackay had
invaded his territory, burning and wasting to the gates of
Thurso, and carrying off a large booty. A peace was
concluded, which lasted until the Earl of Sutherland's death,
1594. He was succeeded by John, then in his eighteenth
year.

Earl George was still smarting under his repeated failures,
and here was a good opportunity to punish the family of
Sutherland while their leader was a mere stripling. But
fortunately for the latter the experienced and brave leader of
the Clan Mackay remained faithful to the young Earl, who
was his wife's nephew. Caithness tried hard to influence
Hugh in his own favour, but failed. In 1 598 Earl John set
out on his travels to the Continent, and during his absence

56 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

the Earl of Caithness signified a wish to hunt in the Reay
forest. Hugh at once dedined to give him leave, and the
affair ended at that time in some bragging on either side.
But in 1 60 1 matters became more serious. Under pretence
of hunting, the Earl of Caithness convened his forces at Ben
Griam, Sutherlandshire. Earl John returned, and with the
aid of his allies encamped within three miles of the Caithness
host, and proposed to fight on the morrow. There was a
tradition that at this very spot a battle should be fought
between the Caithness men and Sutherland and Strathnaver,
where Sutherland men should have a great loss, Strathnaver
greater, but Caithness greatest of all. This made the
Sutherland forces eager for the fray, but the Earl of
Caithness thought it safer to retreat by night into hi«? own
country. A cairn was erected on the spot to commemorate
the event, and it is known as Carn Teichidh — The Flight
Cairn.

It is pleasant to turn from these warlike operations to
more amicable events. In the August of 1602, we find the
Earl of Orkney entertaining a company of the mainland
magnates in his island castles. These included the Earl of
Sutherland, the Mackay chief. Sir Robert Gordon, Earl
John's brother, the laird of Assynt, and others. After a
fortnight's stay, they returned to Cromarty whence they had
embarked, highly pleased with their splendid reception.

Up to this date it was the custom of the Highland chiefs
to settle by force of arms such differences, and they were not
few, as occurred among them. But now they adopted the
modern fashion of lodging complaints with the Privy
Council, and seeking redress by the aid of the law. By this
process it happened often that the real offender escaped

HISTORY. 57

scatheless if he had influential friends at court. Sir Robert
Gordon, who stayed for the most part in England, proved a
good friend to the house of Sutherland in this respect, and
the house of Mackay as frequently failed to obtain redress.
This gave rise to the Gaelic proverbs, " 'S fe^rr caraid 's a
chuirt n' a criin 's a sporan," and again, " Is direach agus is
cam an lagh.''

About this time an effort was made by Roderick
Murray to secure the lands of Bighouse from William
Mackay, brother- german of the chief. This claim was founded
on a charter of James I., who granted these lands to Angus
Murray. The Privy Council decided in favour of Mackay,
and his right was further confirmed by a charter of James VI.

The Earl of Caithness frequently harassed his neighbour,
John Sutherland of Berriedale. The latter, with the aid of the
Clan Abrach, retaliated, for which he was summoned before
the Privy Council at Edinburgh. He spurned the summons,
and betook himself to the hills of the interior, whence he
made frequent raids on the enemy. Failing to apprehend
him Caithness raised an action against Hugh Mackay for
harbouring him, and after a long process Mackay judged it
prudent to arrest Sutherland, and he handed him over to the
Earl of Caithness, who imprisoned him in Girnigo Castle.

Donald Mackay, who was afterwards Sir Donald, and
latterly Lord Reay, interested himself in the case, and after
spending Christmas with Lord Caithness he secured Berrie-
dale's release. This Donald married first Lady Barbara
MacKenzie when he was twenty years of age, and being of
an active disposition he began during his father*s lifetime to
take charge of affairs. He cultivated the friendship of
Caithness at an early date, a circumstance which lowered

58 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

him in the estimation of his astute uncle, Sir Robert Gordon.
In 1611 he was commissioned jointly with John Gordon of
Embo to arrest Arthur Smith, a maker of counterfeit coin,
who fled to Caithness for protection, and carried on his trade
in Thurso. Here he was arrested, but not without a scuffle
with the neighbouring gentlemen, one of whom, John
Sinclair of Stircoke, was slain. Lord Caithness, then in
Edinburgh, hearing of his nephew's death, commenced a
process against the Earl of Sutherland, Mackay, and Sir
Robert Gordon. A counter prosecution against Caithness
was instituted by Gordon for seizing Angus Henderson of
Golval without a commission and imprisoning him in
Girnigo. The reason of this arrest was that he harboured
one William Gun, Slrathnaver, who was "wanted" by
Caithness for cattle-lifting. Gun was arrested in Tain and
imprisoned in Fowlis Castle. He tried to make his escape
by leaping from the battlement of the tower, but injured his
foot and was again captured, and handed to Caithness, who
imprisoned and fettered him in Girnigo. He managed to
rid himself of his fetters, and leaping into the sea, swam
ashore and escaped in the darkness to Golval. Lord
Berriedale pursued him there, but failing to apprehend him,
he seized Henderson and lodged him in Girnigo Castle.
Hence the counter law-suit. Parties were heard for three
days by the Privy Council, and opinion was much divided.
The King wrote repeatedly to the Council, urging them to
advise the parties to come to a mutual agreement. This
was at length effected, but Caithness felt so sorely over the
matter that an unseemly scuffle took place on the High
Street of Edinburgh between himself and Lord Gordon, Sir
Robert, and Donald Mackay.

Lady Jane Gordon, his wife, was equally esteemed for her
piety and worth, notwithstanding that she was a Catholic,
like her parents before her, who suffered for iheir adherance
to the Romish faith. Hugh's Protestantism was not very

62 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

In 1626 Donald Mackay, now Sir Donald, finding him-
self crossed at home, sought and obtained leave of King
Charles to raise a regiment, and go to assist Count Mansfeldt
in Germany. He collected a force of 3000 men, and
embarked them at Cromarty. He was himself detained by
sickness until the following year, when he followed them.
Many gentlemen of the north, chiefly out of Sutherland,
Ross, and Caithness, went with him in the capacity of
officers. These were of the surname of Mackay, Sinclair,
Gordon, Munro, and Gunn, and several of them rose to
distinction in the service of the King of Sweden. It was a
fortunate matter for the peace of the northern shires that an
outlet was thus discovered for its warlike and turbulent young
gentlemen. They gave a good account of themselves in the
continental wars, and some of them returned to take a lead-
ing part in the struggles of the home country during the
killing times. An account of the heroic conduct of Sir
Donald Mackay's regiment appears elsewhere. It will suffice
to say here that Sir Donald proved himself an able and
skilful commander, and for his distinguished services was
raised to the Peerage by King Charles I. in 1628, on his
return for fresh recruits. Lord Reay returned to the con-
tinent with a fresh contingent of troops, and in 1629
transferred his services to Gustavus Adolphus, King of
Sweden, who had now undertaken the defence of the
Protestant cause. The Marquis of Hamilton had also
obtained leave of His Majesty to raise forces to aid the King
of Sweden. He was in much favour with the King, and on
the best terms with Lord Reay. But the latter was informed
on good authority that Hamilton's real purpose for levying
forces was to seize ultimately upon the Kingdom of Scotland.

HISTORY. 63

The loyalty of Reay to the King led him to reveal this plot
prematurely to Lord Ochiltree. Reay was summoned before
the King, and revealed as much as came to his knowledge
of the whole affair. The King had the utmost confidence
in Hamilton, and after a very informal inquest passed the
matter over. Lord Reay in consequence incurred the
hostility of Hamilton and his faction in Scotland. The Privy
Council, whose members were mostly favourable to the
House of Hamilton, turned against Reay's interests when-
ever matters concerning his Lordship's affairs were submitted
to them. He made himself obnoxious all round, and lost
heavily on account of his detention in England, pending
this enquiry.

In 1632 the young Earl of Sutherland married Lady
Jane Drummond, only child of the Earl of Perth. This
was a fortunate alliance in every respect. The lady had
means to extricate the house of Sutherland out of its
pecuniary embarrassments. She was also a true Protestant,
and by her influence the family of Sutherland threw their
whole weight on the side of the Covenanters during the
ensuing struggle. Mr. Thomas Hog of Kiltearn gives her a
high character for piety and ability.

King Charles made a visit to Scotland in 1 633 — apparently to
be crowned, but really to pave the way for Episcopacy in Scot-
land. Among other acts he disjoined Sutherland and the Reay
country from the sheriffdom of Inverness, forming them into
one shire; at the same time he erected Dornoch into a
royal burgh.

Lord Reay found himself in pecuniary difficulties at this
time. He had already received some money from Sir
Robert to equip his regiment for continental service, and

64 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

the latter held the lands of Far, Torrisdale, and others in
wadset for this consideration. He now threatened Reay
with law-suits about the lands of Durness, and as the latter
had few friends in the Privy Council he deemed it prudent
10 accept the terms offered. A contract was entered into in
1633, whereby Lord Reay accepted the lands of Durness
from the Earl in feu for service, and bound himself to
attend the Earl at Parliaments and Conventions. Various
other articles injurious to Reay were agreed to.

The aggressions of the Episcopacy in Scotland came to a
head in 1637 when the Dean attempted to introduce the liturgy
into the High Church of Edinburgh, which produced the well-
known tumult in which Jenny Geddes played a conspicuous
part. The alarmed Privy Council warned the King of
serious disturbances if Episcopacy were to be forced on the
Scottish people, but he was inexorable. Thereupon the
great bulk of the people of Scotland resolved to maintain
their civil and religious liberty at all hazards. The Covenant
was renewed — the National Covenant entered into in 1580,
and was subscribed by multitudes of all ranks throughout the
nation. The Earl of Sutherland and Lord Reay both signed
the Covenant, but the latter was suspected by the Cove-
nanters, as he was well known to be loyal to the King.
Huntly, who was the chief enemy of the Covenanters in the
north, tried hard to gain Sutherland and Lord Reay to his
side, but he failed. Lord Reay*s son, John, did indeed go
to Elgin to confer with Hunily, where both were apprehended
and lodged in Edinburgh Casde. The Master of Reay was
soon liberated, and subscribed the Covenant, and promised
to deal with his father to adhere to that party.

General Leslie was appointed commander of the
Covenftnt«rs' forces in Scotland, and ihe Viscount of Aboyne

A CORNER IN TONCUF, HOUSF: GARDENS.

of ihe King's forces. The latter, however, devolved the
command on Colonel Gunn, who had lately come out of
Germany, whither he had gone with Lord Reay, He was

66 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

an experienced officer, and does not seem to have much
relished the work of fighting ag linst old friends like Reay,
Sutherland, and the Northern Covenanters. These latter
erred greatly in giving the command of the Northern
Counties to Seaforth instead of appointing Reay to the post,
for undoubtedly he had more military experience than any
man on the Covenanters' side. His loyalty to Charles was
likely the reason of passing him over. The consequence
was that he was never hearty in the service, and latterly
went to Denmark to command a regiment there, to be out-
side the reach of both parties. He was, however, recalled,
when the troubles of Cnarles increased, and was captured at
the taking of Newcastle, and sent prisoner to the Tolbooth,
Edinburgh, 1644. In 1645 the victorious Montrose
liberated the State prisoners, and Lord Reay among the rest.
After this he came north, and found his eldest son, John,
Master of Reay, harbouring the Earl of Huntly, and with
him preventing the men of the Reay country and Caithness
from taking part with the Covenanters. This half-hearted
support of the Covenant on the part of Mackay, and
harbouring of Huntly, was used by Sir Robert afterwards
against Lord Reay.

In 1639 Lord Reay found it necessary to obtain a loan
of money from Mr. John Gray, Dean of Caithness, as he was
unwilling to put himself in the hands of Sutherland, who was
thirsting for his lands, and particularly Strathnaver. It
transpired that this Gray was only a tool in the hands of the
Earl. In this way the mortgaged lands of Durness fell
ultimately into the hands of the Earl of Sutherland. Strath-
naver also fell into the same hands, and for similar
reasons. But in selling Strathnaver, in 1642, neither Reay

HISTORY. 67

nor Sutherland took into account that the upper portion was
the property of the clan Abrach, (Mackays), by the gift of
Neil Wasse, the chief, and that it was in their possession for
tii'o centuries. This bred trouble when Sutherlaad sent
officers to collect the rents. A company of regular troops had
to be stationed on the strath for preserving order and enforc-
ing payment.

Lord Reay's affairs were thus far from prosperous. He
was unfortunately involved in matrimonial difficulties, having
divorced Rachel Winterfield, his second wife, a decree which
the Privv Council reversed, and found him liable in all
expenses and aliment. He sailed for Denmark for the
last time in 1648, after making such arrangements as he could
with the Earl of Sutherland, regarding the money due to the
latter, and the lands mortgaged. Strathnaver was now lost
to the Mackays, although Neil Abrach made a stout resist-
ance to the nefarious arrangement. Lord Reay's losses in
the Protestant cause abroad, and by his loyalty to his King
at home, were never refunded. On his death in the following
year he left his curtailed and burdened estate to the Master,
now John, Lord Reay. His body was brought to Tongue,
and laid in the family vault at KirkiboU. He was the most
distinguished of the Mackay chiefs, a good soldier, and a
brave general, but too liberal in proportion to his income.
The historian of the clan Mackay says, "he was not impro-
perly called Donald Duaghal, for he was indeed a man of
troubles "

About this period Sir Robert Gordon, tutor of Sutherland,
and historian of the family, was the most influential man in the
north. Notwithstanding the unsettled times, he managed to
preserve the interests of the family unimpaired. He re-

HISTORY. 69

mained mostly in England, but made frequent visits to the
north to (juell disturbances, and make peace between his
friends. He was unquestionably the preserver of the house
of Sutherland at a time when other estates often changed
hands by reason of the changes in the State. He was the
first to build and repair churches in Sutherland, after the
Reformation, a work in which he was greatly assisted by
Dean Gray, minister of Dornoch. He did much also in the
way of providing maintenance to the ministers of the various
parishes. On the occasion of one of his visits to the north,
he was instrumental in bringing to justice several robbers
who made the Ord of Caithness their habitat. Some of
them were hanged on a gibbet erected on the Ord, as an
example to evil doers. The history which he compiled of
affairs in the north, will always remain the chief authority,
notwithstanding a natural bias in favour of the house of
Sutherland. He handed over the estate on a sound financial
basis to Earl John the seventh, in the year 1630. He became
Sheriff of Inverness, and Vice-Chamberlain of Scotland, in
the same year, in room of James Stuart, Duke of Lennox, who,
with the King's authority, resolved to travel abroad for a time.
It was after the death of the first Lord Reay, 1649, that
the struggles of the Covenanters became really intense.
The Earl of Sutherland proved a faithful friend to the cause,
but John, Lord Reay, was prevailed upon by his uncles,
Seaforth and Pluscardin, to join the Royalists. Lord Reay
came with three hundred able men to join Huntly, but he
was captured by the Covenanting force at Balvainy, 8th
May, 1649, and sent as a prisoner to Edinburgh. Many of
the Mackays were slain, and the remainder sent back under
Hugh Mackay of Scourie to their own country.

70 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Next year Montrose landed in Caithness in favour of the
King, and raised the Caithness men, forcing ministers and
laymen to sign a bond in his favour. Reay was in prison,
but Mackay of Scourie, and Mackay of Dirlet and Strathy,
repaired to the Marquis with assistance. They advised him
to keep to the interior of the country while passing through
Sutherland, where cavalry could not act with advantage.
But he would not be prevailed upon to alter his route.
They foresaw the result of such rashness, and returned
apparently for more forces, but they did not interest them-
selves further in the matter. In the course of the year
Mackay of Scourie was Colonel of his countrymen, fighting
on the Covenanters* side. Montrose was defeated by
Strachan on the borders of Sutherland, and being captured
by MacLeod of Assynt, into whose lands he wandered, he
was taken to Edinburgh and executed. The Macl^reods of
Assynt have been greatly blamed for this act, but without
much reason. It was one of the causes which led to the
loss of their estates subsequently. It is cjuite probable that
MacLeod, without any promise of reward from the Govern-
ment, would have acted as he did, seeing that his superior,
the Earl of Sutherland, and his cousin, Munro, were both in
pursuit of the Marquis.

In 1651 Charles II. was crowned King at Scone amidst
great rejoicing. Another regiment of 1000 men from
Sutherland and Strathnaver — the first in 1650 — was sent to
the King to Stirling. But Cromwell soon entered Scotland
at the head of his sectarians, -overthrew the Scottish army, re-
leased the State prisoners with the exception of Lord Reay, whom
for a time he kept in durance, but latterly he was released by the
efforts of his lady, the daughter of Hugh Mackay of Scourie.

HISTORY. 71

In 1655 an effort was made by the Earl of Glencairn to
liberate the nation of the English sectaries, in which he was
joined by Reay —which ended in the capture of Glencairn
by General Monk. Reay escaped, but his house of Tongue
was burnt.

Things had gone into confusion in England on the death
of Cromwell. The nation was heartily sick of the new order
of things under Cromwell, and in a fit of revived loyalty the
King was recalled. The first Scots Parliament was held in
1661. So glad was the nation to escape from the anarchy
of the past that they were ready to yield everything to the
King's creatures. In this famous Parliament the Presbyter-
ian Government and discipline were overturned, the Cove-
nants declared unlawful and seditious, the Marquis of Argyle,
the best patriot in the State, and Mr. (iuthrie, the best in the
church, were condemned to death. The infamous rescissory
act was passed, which has been called the "gravestone of
the Reformation.'

Caithness, Sutherland, and Reay, were present at this
Parliament. Sutherland, by taking the oath of allegiance,
lost in a great measure the credit he gained for his former
appearances on behalf of Presbyterian liberty. He died in
1663, and was succeeded by his son. Earl George.

The Scottish I'arliament was commanded by the King to
make up the losses of the family of Mackay in the recent
troubles on account of their loyalty to the King. The com-
mission appointed valued these losses of father and son at
60,000 pounds Scots money, but he was never refunded in
any part of them. It is perhaps not too much to say that no
family suffered so much for their loyalty as the Mackays did.
After this date neither the Earl of Sutherland nor Lord

72 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Reay took much interest in public affairs during the reigns
of Charles II. and James II. Accordingly their names are
not to be met with during the fierce persecution of the
Presbyterians. In the Highland host which was let loose on
the Covenanters of the south and west of Scotland, there
were none from Sutherland or the Reay country. On the
contrary, the county provided shelter to scores of eminent
persons escaping from the fury of the dragoons. In this way,
the people of the district were early imbued with the prin-
ciples of religious freedom and piety. Seaforth and Duffus
were empowered to put down conventicles in the north, but
neither of them seems to have been very harsh. The Earl
of Caithness, however, did not have the same scruples in
suppressing them within his bounds, the bond which he com-
pelled the principal persons in that shire to sign being still
preserved.

The Revolution of 1 688 added fresh lustre to the name
of Mackay, and brought that family into a greater promi-
nence than they had ever secured. When the Prince of
Orange came to the rescue of the country against the
tyranny of the Stuarts in the person of James II., he
devolved the command of his forces in Scotland on General
Hugh Mackay of Scourie — an officer who had gained great
experience in the continental wars. The career of this brave
and pious general suffered a partial eclipse at Killiecrankie,
but four days after this reverse- he turned the tide of victory in
his favour. The Privy Council hampered his movements and
thwarted his plan of compaign, but William had unbounded
confidence in his ability. In a very short time, by modera-
tion, diplomacy, and clemency to the vanquished. General
Mackay pacified the Highland clans, and was afterwards sent

HISTORY. 73

to Ireland, where he acquired further renown as an able and
brave officer. As was natural, the Mackays flocked to his
standard. Five hundred of their best men took the field
during this period, the Earl of Sutherland furnished some
men likewise, as also the Munros and (Grants. Among the
Mackays who held commissions under him were his brother
James, killed at Killiecrankie, (ieorge and Robert, sons of
Lord Reay, and his own nephews. Captains William Mackay,
Kinloch, and Hugh Mackay, Borley.

The next occasion on which the Sutherland men and
Mackays rendered service to the Government was during the
rebellion of 17 15. Many in Caithness favoured the
Pretender, but John, Earl of Sutherland, and George, Lord
Reay, were faithful to the house of Hanover. Sutherland
was in England when the rebellion broke out, but he sailed
north with all speed, directing arms and ammunition to be
sent after him. This was done, but the rebels intercepted
the vessel at Burntisland. Assisted by Lord Reay and
others, Sutherland pushed on towards Inverness, where he
was joined by Lovat, who deserted the Pretender. They
numbered about 1800 in all. Seaforth's army was, however,
4000 strong, and the Earl of Sutherland judged it hazardous
to try issues with him with such a small and not well equipped
force. Retiring northwards before Seaforth he accom-
plished his object without striking a blow, which object was
to prevent the junction of the forces of Seaforth with the
Earl of Mar. Before this was accomplished the Duke of
Argyle engaged with Mar at Sheriffmuir. Seaforth was too
late to be of assistance, so he turned northwards to attack
the Elarl of Sutherland. The latter hearing this marched at
the head of 800 men, including Mackays, Grants, and

HISTORY. 75

Munros, to within four miles of his camp. Seaforth there-
upon laid down his arms, and dissolved his forces, requesting
these friends of the Gqvernment to use their influence to
secure his pardon. The Sutherland men and Mackays
remained at Inverness for some time to disperse bands of
desperados which committed robberies and other acts of
violence on the outbreak of hostilities. Captain Hugh
Mackay was in command of the Reay countrymen.

The next Jacobite attempt was made in 1745. At this
time also the loyalists of the north were of great service to
the Government in overawing the malcontents of Caithness,
and preventing them, the MacKenzies of Ross, and a large
party from Orkney, and others from joining the rebel army.
It was at this time that the Hazard, sloop of war, was sent
from France with ;^2o,ooo to help Prince Charlie. Being
discovered in the Moray Firth by the Sheerness man-of-war
she sailed northward to the Pentland Firth, and along the
coast to Tongue, where she ran aground on the Melness
sands. They all landed safely to the number of 200 men,
William Mackay of Melness* receiving them kindly.
But old Lord Reay heard of the arrival, notice was
given to a company of Loudon's troops at I^rg, and
Daniel Forbes, Lord Reay's factor, with a handful of men
captured them, not, however, before breaking the boxes
containing the gold, and throwing it into a lake close by. The
prisoners were put on board the Sheerness man-of-war,
which had come so far in pursuit of the French frigate.

In this rebellion Lovat and Cromarty both joined the
Pretender — notwithstanding the efforts of Lord President

• A different version of this incident is given by Colonel Kerr in
Lyon in Mournings Vol. L, paee 358. See also chapter on
** Regiments," by Mr. John Mackay {Ben Reay),

SUTHEftLjVND i

i REAV COUNTRY.

Forbes to prevail upoJi the Highland clans to remain loyal.
Caithness wa^ full of rebels, who organised themselves into
companies, but they failed to move out of the county.
Cromarty attempted to effect a junction with them, but was
captured by the Sutherlanders and Mackays in the castle of
Dunrobin, where he threw himself upon tho rit-mtiicv uf ihL-

Duchess. Through Sutherland's influence his offence was
pardoned.

George, Lord Reay, died in 1748, and was succeeded by
his son Donald, who died in 1760. The Earl of Sutherland,
William, who took an active part in putting down the
rebellion of '45 died in France in 1748, and was succeeded
tiy his son William, in 1750. He raised a fencible regiment
in 1756, during the French scare, of which regiment Hugh

HISTORY. 77

Mackay of Bighouse was Lieutenant-Colonel. It was dis-
banded in 1763. The Earl and Countess died at Bath in
1766, leaving a daughter, Elizabeth, to succeed. She married
in 1760, George Granville Leveson Gower, Viscount Trent-
ham. By this time the spirit of feudalism and chivalry had
subsided, and the clan system came to an end.

Donald, Lord Reay, was a pious and benevolent noble-
man, and so was (ieorge, fifth Lord Reay, who succeeded
him in 1761. He died in 1768, and was buried in Holyrood.
His brother Hugh succeeded, for whom the Lords of Session
found it necessary to appoint a tutor to manage his estates.
Lord Hugh lodged with James Mackay of Skerray, and the
Mackays of Bighouse managed the Reay estates. He died
in 1797 and his cousin-german Eric, seventh Lord Reay,
succeeded. In his time the Reay Fencibles, who dis-
tinguished themselves in Ireland, were raised. This regiment
was commanded successively by Colonel Mackay Hugh
Baillie (grandson of Hugh Mackay, Bighouse), Major John
Scobie, Lieutenant-Colonels Ross and Colin Campbell. It
was disbanded, after earning much renown for bravery in the
field, and good behaviour in camp, in 1802. It was of this
raiment that General Lake spoke when he was defeated at
Castlebar, " If I had my brave and honest Reays here, this
would not have happened."

Eric, Lord Reay, was the last to own his ancestral estates.
The property fell into the hands of the Sutherland family, as
Assynt also did, so that at the present time, practically the
whole of the county of Sutherland belongs to the noble family
which bears the name. The title, however, was preserved, and
the present Lord Reay is not the least illustrious of that
long line of chiefs which shed lustre on the name of Mackay.

A SHORT TREATISE ON HOMESPUN,

CHIEFLY IN ITS RELATION TO

SUTHERLAND.

Her (trace the Duchess of Sutherland.

Ever since this dying century has passed its prime, and the
discoveries of the wonderful power of steam, and of
electricity, have become part of its existence, we have learned
to associate the centres of the great industries of the world
with the hideousness, the squalor, the restlessness, the crime,
which are the natural result of human ascendency, in a
world that was planned to be Divine.

Heavily hangs the smoke of countless chimneys over
the brick and mortar erections that do penance for the
woods and hilly fields of long ago : pitilessly revolve, madly,
unceasingly, the countless wheels of a machinery which in
its iron grasp crushes the art of dead centuries, flinging it
out to a self-satisfied generation, that to its own crude fancy
moulds the shapeless wreck, crying " see, see " —triumphant
as the gutter child over its first mud pie.

Mr. Arnold White in his volume on "English Democracy"
says, " the folly and wickedness of those who destroyed the
spinning jennies, the engines, and the printing machines, at
the time of their introduction, have been denounced with so
unanimous a voice that it would be futile to suggest that the
ignorant peasants, or delirious mechanics, who obeyed the
first instincts of their nature, were animated by a true sense

A SHORT TREATISE ON HOMESPUN. 79

of self-preservation, however careless they may have been of
the future of the human race." Mr. White reluctantlv
makes an admission. It was the prophetic spirit of self-
preservation that had inspired those men, in the intuitive
knowledge that not all the advantages of affluence and power
to the minority — ^not the rise of a few poor to riches, a few
rich to millionaires -not the undeniable freer circulation of
gold — could compensate for the sufferings of thousands,
who, tumbling pell mell into our great cities, thirsting for the
employment scattered broadcast by these marvellous inven-
tions, had found, all too late, among the curses of their
half-starved children, the bitter results of such impetuosity
far out-weighing its blessings.

Whilst the larger portion of the world looks on in sullen
indifference at this tottering state of things, there are others,
tired of cackling speculation over quack remedies, who in
real earnest have attempted to rescue some of the spoils of
better days, as they are l>orne along on the flood of time.
Perhaps foremost in importance among these poor little
rescues comes the Hand-Spinning and Hand-Loom Weaving
Industry of the United Kingdom. In England it exists only
in the tiny oasis which men like John Ruskin, steeped in
artistic feeling, and thirsting after the old order, have
established under personal supervision, but in Ireland and
Scotland the last decade has seen an extraordinary reaction,
bringing the hand made tweeds and linens again into the
world of demand, and likely to produce lasting benefit to the
peasantry of each country.

The general processes connected with the manufacture of
cloth are well known, but a few remarks may be permitted
as to specialities of method, and the following extracts

8o SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

from a paper written by the Rev. Dr. Joass of Golspie for
the Chicago Exhibition will prove of undeniable interest.

" The wool packets being opened out and roughly sorted
or stapled according to quality and length of fibre, of which
there is considerable variety in the same fleece, the wool is
cleansed from the grease derived from contact with the sheep
(and the various protective * dipping ' or * bathing ' processes
to which that animal is in autumn subjected) by steeping in
a hot liquid. Dried and shaken up and still further * sorted '
the wool is then passed through the process of carding
and combing, to lay its fibres in the sanie direction. This
is effected by means of a pair of implements like hair-
brushes, with the handles at the sides, and set with metal
teeth. It is now nearly ready to be spun into thread. The
distaff and spindle were, from very early times, used for this
purpose. The former is a staff, about four feet long, fixed
in the waist-belt on the left side, or, more commonly, in the
up-turned outer skirt, which thus forms a pocket in front
for carrying the clews or balls of thread. To the projecting
head of the distaff, the wool, previously cross-carded into
inch-thick cylinders, (in which the fibre has now assumed
a sort of spiral arrangement) is tied in an open bunch or
bundle. From this it is fed out by the left hand of the
spinster to the spindle, held at starting in (and afterwards
swinging from) the right. This is a rounded piece of wood,
about a foot long and half an inch in diameter, loaded at the
lower end by the whorl, which acts as * fly-wheel,' and is
generally made of stone, often a disc of steatite, about the
diameter of a bronze penny, and weighing over an ounce
and a half. Some wool, drawn out from the store on the
distaff, to which it still remains attached, is twisted into a

A SHORT TREATISE ON HOMESPUN. 8 1

kind of thread and tied to the middle of the spindle, from
which it passes upwards and is fastened by a simple hitch
to a notch near the spindle-head. This is then twirled by
the right hand, and as it spins it twists (as it is allowed
to drop slowly towards the ground) all the wool up to the
distaff, the hands regulating the speed and further supply,
and thus determining the thickness of the thread. From
time to time the thread is coiled around the shaft of the
spindle into a ball, and a new hitch made till the clew is
large enough to be slipped off and a new one begun.

From the number of whorls found in connection with
prehistoric remains in Sutherland their use must be very
ancient, yet the spindle is still to be seen at work on the
hillsides of Assynt, in the north west of this county,
employed for its original purpose of spinning. On the east
coast it is used occasionally for twining together different
colours of thread, all the spinning being done by the well
known spinning wheel.

The next process is dyeing, and whether this is done *in
the wool' or *in the thread ' there is a final treatment in an
ammoniacal liquid, called by the Highlanders 'fual,' which
removes the last traces of oleaginous matter and prepares
the wool for receiving and retaining the dye. The securing
of uniformity of tint or shade has hitherto presented some
difficulty, and this is partly due to the imperfection of the
apparatus in common use, and to the usual habit of measur-
ing the dyeing material merely by the handful.

Mineral dyes are now mostly used instead of those of
vegetable origin. A list of the latter, some of which are in
local use, is here given as collected from various sources of
information.

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

k. C

•

O J3

•

Urn

"rt

U»U J

.S 2

3 W

C«

^^ C

•- $i S

« £ 3
O »- t)

•S 'o .y

c c c

<5 3-Cj

C x !/: .S

_ 3 3 3 O

» O u. ;s 1-3 1-3 ;^

<
o

C 3

.5 o

.5 — ; «2 ««

S S e« C

i-i k. >.( k. -. u rr

= o £

5 "^ ^y 3 C rt

o
u

w E

w 3

x.x.

Z
^

•05

'www
woe

^•S)H

9<oSG
<«;dw

A SHORT TREATISE ON HOMESPUN. 83

The dyed thread, washed in salt water if blue, or in fresh
if of any other colour, is next woven into a web either at
the cottage hand-loom or a small cloth mill driven by water
power. The next process is that of * felting ' or thickening,
called *waulking' in the north, probably from its being
chiefly effected by the feet. The microscopic projections
on the fibre interlock when the web is beaten wet, and as
the * waulk-mill ' is apt to overdo the work, turning out a
texture hard, stiff* and heavy, the old process is still preserved
in the west Highlands of Inverness and Ross, and in some
parts of Sutherland, and secures a fabric soft, supple, and
suflftciently dense to be wind and weather proof. The follow-
ing description by A. Ross, LL.D., late Provost of Inver-
ness, is taken from a paper read before the Gaelic Society
there in 1885.

" In the Highland districts women make use of their
feet to produce the same result, (felting), and a picturesque
sight it is to see a dozen or more Highland lassies set around
in two rows facing each other. The web of cloth is passed
round in a damp state, each one pressing it and pitching it
with a dash to her next neighbour, and so the cloth is
handled (? footed), pushed, crushed, and welded as to become
close and even in texture. The process is slow and tedious,
but the ladies know how to beguile the time, and the song
is passed round, each one taking up the verse in turn, and
all joining in the chorus. The eff*ect is very peculiar and
often very pleasing, and the waulking songs are very popular
in all the collections.

" I have on various occasions " he continues, " watched
the waulking process, but seldom in recent years. It is often
the occasion of a little boisterous merriment and practical

84 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

joking, for, should a membKir of the male sex be found
prowling near by, he is, if caught, unceremoniously thrust
into the centre of the circle and tossed with the web till,
bruised with the rough usage and blackened with the dye,
he is glad to make his escape from the hands of the furies."

While to this method of * felting ' the web, something of
the softness of the genuine * homespun ' is due, it is also
worthy of mention that the longer stapled wools are less
liable to become matted and hard under the thickening
process, of whatever kind, than those which are of shorter
fibre. Now it is only with the longer fibred wool that the
Highland wheel can work. Its very imperfection then as
an implement, or rather machine, becomes of advantage as a
guarantee of durability as well as of comfort in connexion
with the work which it turns out, for whereas the mill can
use up almost any sort of wool, however short in the fibre
and inferior in quality, the wheel can only use the best and
this is, in the end, the cheapest."

A transition time, through which several of the northern
counties had already pissed, fell upon Sutherland about the
first quarter of this century. For a long time previous the
people were content to be clothed in their native home-
spun, and the demand occupied the time of the thrifty
housewife and the female members of the household, when
the closing year brought relief from the more pressing
labours of the croft or the farm. The opening up of the
county by roads and the influx of apparently cheaper and
finer fabrics introduced a change of taste and the old home-
industries flagged.

There was reason to fear that this would come to be
regarded as but an eddy which attended the stream of

A SHORT TREATISE ON HOMESPUN. 85

progress, and that the check to fireside winter-work, though
sad, was inevitable, and must be endured because of com-
pensating advantages. It also seemed not improbable that
it might be set aside as only a woman's question.

This indeed it has eventually become in the widest sense,
mainly on account of the kind of sympathetic impulse
required to initiate a remedial domestic movement, and the
special skill and careful personal supervision, which, from
the nature of the work, is needed to encourage and direct
it. As good, that has once been personally experienced,
rises again to the surface, even after a tempestuous lifetime
of evil, so, notwithstanding the contamination of southern
influence, every year increased appreciation of the artistic
merits and practical usefulness of their hand made tweeds,
is returning to the northern people. The thatched, chimney-
less roof of the cabin, once the only dwelling of the
industrious weaver, now more often than not shelters his
sleek cow ; the weaver himself sitting snugly between slates
above and white-washed walls around, and it is not too
optimistic to assert that the webs of moss-green, heather-red,
and sky-blue, peacefully rolled out from his purring loom,
could, if correct in (juantity, and perfect in quality, be sold
trebly over, even were the number of weavers doubled
throughout the county.

From parish to parish busy committees are forming
.themselves, for encouragement and communication with the
market, and while there is no idea of competing with the
great woollen factories of Bradford, Huddersfield, etc.,
either in pattern or in price, the orders from London trades-
men for genuine homespun goes on, like the mountain
stream, torrential in the proper season, and silent at others.

86 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

In common with men — women cyclists and women pedes-
trians, have discovered its advantage for comfort and
durability, but is it fantastic to add, that in the touch a^id
smell of these tweeds there is a quality that enslaves them,
by its appeal to the nobler sensation of sentiment ? In their
close proximity, imagination conjures up the scent of autumn
heather, mingling with the peat smoke from the scattered
homesteads, curUng out to the wide swell of the Atlantic ;
the mind's eye pictures the wild hill-tops bathed in the mist
of a passing shower — the covey of grouse whirring to the
hollow by the deep swift salmon river — and beyond, in the
glorious rainbow light of the August sunset, the startled
listening hinds, motionless against the sky line. Surely
under such conditions, the Scottish Highlands reveal in
effect the enchanted summer-land of the world.

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND,

BY THE

Rev. Robert Munro, b.d., f.r.s.e., f.s.a., Scot.

If Sutherlandshire may be regarded as geologically repre-
senting an epitome of the entire formation of the earth's
structure, so from the view-point of the antiquary it may be
taken as embracing every sphere of the field covered by
Scottish archaeology. It is rich, perhaps beyond any county,
in monuments and remains of prehistoric times. Its natur-
ally mountainous and isolated position has in great measure
preserved the memorials and ruins of its past civilization, if
not from the ravages of time, at least from the more destruct-
ive agency of human hands. Strongholds and forts, cairns
and tumuli, monoliths and rude stone circles have been
invariably respected and left unmolested during all the years.
Generation after generation has looked upon them as part
of the soil, has prided itself in them and viewed them
with more or less veneration, so that to-day, not less than a
hundred years ago, it is esteemed a kind of sacrilege to
disturb a primitive grave or to excavate an ancient strong-
hold.

Since the time of the great northern archaeologist
Thomsen it is usual to study the antiquities of any land as
passing through the three distinct stages of stone, of bronze,
and of iron. These stages or periods indicate the successive
steps in the rise from rudeness to civilization, from a lower

88 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

type of culture to a higher ; and may generally be accepted
as outlining the course of development through which all the
higher races have passed. In the antiquities of Sutherland
examples of the three periods are abundant. As far back as
history can go we have proof that the use of iron was
universal in Scotland. The old Caledonian warriors had their
iron chariots and weapons, and were able to make a formid-
able stand even against the legions of Rome itself. But,
further back than this remote age, there is evidence of a time
more remote still when iron was altogether unknown, and
when the only metal used in making instruments and
weapons was bronze. And again, even more distant than
the bronze period, in the prehistoric distances, there existed
an era when man had no knowledge of either bronze or iron,
and when all his tools and weapons were constructed of
natural materials, such as stone and horn, bone and wood.
Each of these ages — pointing to successive conditions of
culture and civilization — must not however be considered
as in every instance absolutely marked off and defined. The
stone age may, for example, overlap — in some cases it does
overlap — the bronze and iron ages, and the bronze age may
run down far into and alongside of the iron age. These
exceptions may be admitted ; yet in its widest application the
** three-age system " has proved itself to be a safe principle
of classification in archaeology.

I. — The Stone Age.

The tools and weapons belonging to the stone age are of
two kinds : there are those that are rude and unpolished,
brought to the desired shape by a few rough strokes, and
showing no marks of smoothing or grinding ; and there are

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. 89

Others that manifest great skill in the workmanship, being
beautifully executed, ground, and polished. The rough
unpolished implements are found in the older deposits along
with the bones of extinct animals, and are called Palaeolithic:
the smooth and more highly polished ones, belonging to a
more advanced stage and co-eval with the age of bronze, are
known as Neolithic.

Mr. Samuel Laing has tried to prove, in his Prehistoric
Remains of Caithness, that an aboriginal tribe of savage
cannibals, as little advanced as the men of Abbeville and Les
Eyzies, lingered on for many centuries in that county. They
were too rude to have known anything of the later Stone or
Bronze Periods of Britain, or to have superseded an earlier
or less civilized race of prior aborigines. If Mr. Laing had
been able to prove his theory — which he utterly fails to do —
we might also reasonably look for Palaeolithic man and his
remains in Sutherland. But, as it is, there is not a single
trace of him there ; and for that part of it, as far as has yet
been scientifically ascertained, not a trace of him or of his
works in the whole of Scotland.

Naturally then we must begin not with the earlier epoch
of the Stone age, but with the later or Neolithic epoch.

The implements of the later Stone Age are almost the
same in all lands. They consist of axes, hammers, spear-
heads, knives, daggers, arrow-heads, saws, chisels, borers,
and the like, made of polished stone or flint. The imple-
ments found by Mr. Stevenson on Golspie links, and now
deposited in the Antiquarian Museum, Edinburgh, give a
good representation of the Sutherland Stone Age weapons.
The axes and hammers are of the usual type. The arrow-
heads — beautiful in form and execution — are of the types

9© SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

known as barbed and tanged, lozenge and leaf -shaped, and a
few are of the Irish type, barbed without tang. Yellow and
brown flint, but more frequently the chert associated with
the Jurassic deposits on the Golspie coast, which takes a fine
edge and has the conchoidal fracture of flint, is the material
used.

Scattered throughout the county there are several sites
where stone implements were manufactured. There is one
near Golspie, where scrapers, saws, knives, and fashioned
flakes used to be found plentifully. Similar sites are at
Badanloch in Kildonan, at Lairg, near the churchyard,
at Rogart, near the Dal more rock, and at Dornoch, close to
the Meikle Ferr>'.

Arrow-heads are called by the natives ** elf -darts," and
are popularly believed to be hurled by the fairies in their
efforts to injure man and beast. Flint hammers and axes
are not popularly recognised as such ; they are supposed to
be thunderbolts "that have fallen with the lightning from
heaven." Various healing and supernatural virtues are
attributed to them, and it is thought that a house in which
they are kept cannot be struck by lightning. It is curious
that these old-world notions, still credited in Sutherland,
should be current not only in the British Isles, but in almost
every part of the world that has passed through a Stone Age.

The erections of the Stone Age that have escaped the
hand of time are principally commemorative or sepultural.
Of these perhaps the most distinctive are the huge cham-
bered cairns, of which there are such good examples in the
parish of Farr.

At Rhinavie, about a mile from Bettyhill, there is a
group of three of these cairns lying in line due north and

9» SUTHEKT.ANn AUD THE REAY COUNTHV.

south. The largest is 230 ft. long, 80 ft. wide at the north
end, and narrowing to about 50 ft. at the other end. It is
furnished with a tricellular chamber reached by a solidly
built passage 17 ft. in lenglh, and 2 ft. in height and in

DOORWAY FROM Isr TO im, CHAMBER OF T.OV«i CAIRN

width. The largest cell is the end one, or that which is
furthest in. It is 7 ft. in diameter and 8 ft. in height.
Divided from this by upright stones are two other cells built
of rude masonry and covered over with large slabs, one of
which measures 6j4 ft. by 3 ft. The middle cell is 5 ft. in
length, nearly the same measurement in breadth, and origin-
ally 6 ft. 10 in. in height. The cell next the entrance is
scarcely as large as the middle one, but this may be due to
the fact that the walls have bulged in considerably. Front-
ing the entrance to this tripartile chamber is an arc of a
circle composed of large stones varying in height from 3 ft.
to 7 ft. 10 in., and placed at distances ranging from 10 to
16 ft.

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND.

The seiotid rairii in tlic group is an oblong heap loo ft.
in length. It has not been excavated, but it is evidently of
the same chamliered character as the aljovf.

The third, or northermost cairn is circular in forni, 60 ft,
in diameter, with a vertical height of about 1 2 ft. It has a

94 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

chamber in the centre, whose walls are fine granite slabs set
on end, the spaces between being built with uncemented
masonry. The chamber is about 7 ft. in diameter, with a
height of 8 ft.

A cairn of the same type as the above is situated further
south, on the other side of Skelpick burn. Its length is
220 ft. and its breadth from 20 to 30 ft. It contains two
chambers, the first being 8 ft. by 10 ft., the second 10 ft. by
12 ft., each being apparently about 8 ft. in height.

At Piscary, on a hill near Swordly, are four large cairns
which, though differing somewhat in external appearance
from those mentioned, have the same well-marked internal
structure of passages and separate chambers.

These cairns are in every way analogous to the celebrated
chambered cairns of Caithness, which have been so fully
investigated by Dr. Joseph Anderson. They are places of
sepulture for the dead, who were laid in the cells in a
recumbent or sitting posture. Sometimes a succession of
such interments took place in the same cairn, so that it is not
uncommon to find several skeletons in a single chamber.
Along with the dead were buried their personal weapons and
ornaments, evidently in the pathetic hope that they might be
of service in a future world Earthenware vessels are
occasionally found in the graves, filled now with earth, but
originally containing food which it was supposed the dead
might require in the life beyond. On the floor of some of
the chambers the bones of the dog, the horse, the ox, the
swine, and the deer, have been dug up, as if they, the com-
panions of man's earthly existence, could keep him company
in his tenancy of the tomb.

The semi-circle of standing stones at Rhinavie is of

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. 95

interest as showing that as far back as the Stone Age circles
of this kind were set up to distinguish sepulchral sites.
Whether originally they served any other purpose we know
not. At a later time they came to be regarded with super-
stitious reverence, and religious rites were practiced in
connection with them. The remarkable chambered cairns
at Clava, on the Nairn — similar in structure to the Farr
cairns — are surrounded by circles of erect stones, on some of
which are cup-markings. These mysterious sculpturings —
hollow basins carved out of the rock, with sometimes one or
more incised concentric rings— are common in Sutherland,
though they have not yet been discovered in connection with
its chambered cairns. What they are, archaeology has in
vain tried to solve. They are found not only in Great
Britain and Ireland, but in different parts of Europe, in
Palestine, and the Sinaitic Peninsula, in India, North Africa,
and America. They have been regarded as the blood basins
of Druidic altars, as emblems of the sun-god, as astronomical
devices, as symbols of the old Lingam w'orship, and some
have been prosaic enough to hazard the conjecture that they
are the maps of a prehistoric civilization, or the marks cut
out by Neolithic man as he polished his tools and weapons
on exposed rock-surfaces. All that is indisputable is that
they are as old as the Stone Age, and that their use has been
prolonged into Christian times. They are found on isolated
slabs and earth-fast rocks, on monoliths and megalithic circles,
dolmens and chambered tumuli, on the lids of cist-vaens,
and the stone coverings of burial urns, carved on the walls
of Christian churches, and adorning headstones in rural
churchyards. Wherever they exist they are held in vener-
ation. In Scandinavia, Switzerland, and Scotland — where

96 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

they are called "elf -stones," or "stones of the dead" —
needles, buttons, eggs, and milk are placed in the cups as
offerings to the souls of the dead. In many lands they are
supposed to have the power of warding off disease and of
counteracting sterility.

Interesting it is, too, in this connection, to notice that
some of the Suthcrlandshire rocks possess carvings which
are evidently designed to represent human foot-prints
Delineations of the naked human foot, scooped out of, or
incised in the rock are not confined to the British Isles ;
they are of frec^uent occurrence in Scandinavia, and they are
known to exist in France and Germany. Herodotus states
that an impression of the foot of Hercules, two cubits in
length, existed on a rock beyond the river Tyres in Scythia
The sacred foot-print of Buddha, on Adam's Peak in Ceylon,
is well-known, and need only be mentioned. In Scotland
and Ireland rocks on which such impressions are carved are
supposed to be coronation or inauguration stones, on which
Kings and Chieftains took the oath of loyalty to the laws
and customs of the nation or the clan. To what age these
notable sculpturings must be assigned cannot yet be made
out with certainty. They may have an origin dating back to
Neolithic times, or they may be comparatively recent. Dr.
Joass, when excavating one of the Sutherland brochs, found
the impression of two foot-prints on a stone in the entrance
passage.

It would seem as if already in the Stone Age the people
of Sutherland had atUiined to some measure of culture and
civilization. They used weapons of stone and urns of clay
which manifest skilful workmanship and aesthetic taste. They
possessed the same domestic animals that we possess, they

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. 97

pursued the chase, and they fished in the lakes and rivers.
It is more than likely, too, that they had fixed places of
abode, or tribal villages ; for it is scarcely possible that the
people who reared such splendid dwellings for the dead
should themselves lead a purely nomadic life, without any
permanent shelter but that of the caves and the rocks. The
chambered cairns of Strathnaver clearly point not only to
high religious instincts, and reverence for ancestry, they also
presuppose an organized society or fellowship which is the
first necessary step towards civilization. Hard, perhaps, the
lot of the men of the Stone Age might at times be, but on
the whole it need have been neither so miserable nor so
savage as it is sometimes pictured. Their existence was free
and natural, in no way cramped or confined. They had the
hills and the valleys, the rivers and the forests, — they lived a
many-sided, active life, — finding their own food, making
their own clothes, and weapons and houses, — having also,
all the while, to hold their own against wild beasts and human
foes — and from the very exigencies of their environment
they must physically and mentally have occupied no mean
place. Higher, to say the least of it, they certainly were,
both in nature and endowment, than the multitudes in our
large cities who toil in badly ventilated rooms, who seldom
enjoy the beneficent light of the sun, or behold the glories
of earth and sea and sky, and who spend their whole life-
time in the doing of one little monotonous task that
paralyses the mind and arrests the true growth of manhood.

II. — The Bronze Age.

Bronze finds in Sutherland are much less abundant than
those of stone, yet they are sufficiently numerous and widely

lOO SUTHERtAND ANP THE RF-AY COITNTRV.

boulder, one foot under the present surface. They have
been described by Dr. Joass in the PrMttdings of the Society
of Antiijuariti, lol. liii.. {new series, p. 214). Two of them
are perfortiled in tasteful design, hy small clean cut holes,
and the rim of one is ornamented in iherron pattern. The

NEAR HELMSDALE.

whole appear to have been beattn into form and lathe -dressed.
In the same neighbourhood a stone ball of the Bronze Age
was also picked up. From Kintradwell — a district full of
many antiquities — we have clippings, waste-jets, and crucibles,
pointing to the presence here at one time of artificers in
bronze.

Amotig the personal ornaments of this period are shale
beads, bronze pins and buttons, necklaces of jet and bron/.e
armlets. Beads, pins, and buttons often constitute part of

» THE HEAl' COUNTKV.

the "grave goods" in broiue burials. Dr. Joass found in a
cist at Torish, near Helmsdale, a necklace of jet in an almost

TOR[SH NtCKI

perfect condition. Fragments of charcoal, an arrow-head of
thert, and a spearhead of yellow fiinl, were also found

THE ANTIQUITIES OK SUTHERLAND. IO3

among the ejected material. At Upfxit armlets of bronze
were got in connection with cremated burials.

'I'he Bronze Age, like the Stone Age, affords no indication
of the kind of dwellings in which the people lived. 'I'hey
had, no doubt, houses built of turf or of stone, but all trace
of them has long since vanished. I'he only structures
belonging to this far away time are the dwelling-places of the
dead. Strangely enough these do not manifest such archi-
tectural skill as the great cairn chambers of the Stone |)eriod,
nor are they, like those, uniform in shajx; and character.
Some of them the earliest, as they are the rarest —consist
of a moderately large cist made of rough slabs op flags in
which the body was laid unburnt ; others and these con-
stitute the largest number — consist of a smaller cist in which
was placed an urn holding the ashes of the cremated body ;
while a third kind of interment was that of the simple urn,
with a lid, containing the ashes of the dead, but not enclosed
by a cist. The cists again were sometimes covered over with
large heaps of stone, so as to form considerable cairns ; but
as frecjuently they are found in earth mounds, and hillocks
of gravel and sand. On the other hand, in many cases of
the humbler urn burial, the urn was merely laid in a hole in
the earth. 'I'he grave de|)osits associated with these different
forms of Bronze Age burial are of the same peculiar type.
They consist of thin oval blades with tangs, ri vetted triangular
blades, rings and pins, beads and necklaces of jet, |>olished
stone weai)ons, arrow-heads and flint knives.

The external characteristics of the burials of the Bronze
Age are as well defined as their contents. Their distinctive
feature is not' the cairn, the mound, the cist, or the urn ; it
is the enclosure of stones encircling the grave, and marking

104 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY*

it off from the surrounding area. These enclosures, or
stone circles, occasionally assume large and impressive
proportions, as at Stennis and Callernish ; more rarely they
formed many lines of small stones arranged in parallel or
irregular rows, like those at Clyth and I^theron, in Caith-
ness; but wherever they exist, unless in conjunction with
chambered cairns, they constitute the most distinguishing
mark of a Bronze Age burial. Of the larger type of stone
circles there are several interesting examples in Sutherland,
as at Dal-Harald in Strathnaver, at Abercross, near Morvich,
at Rosehall and Bonar Bridge. The only instance of the
many lines and circles of small stones is at Lierabol,
Kildonan, where they are associated with a group of Bronze
Age tumuli.

Monoliths — single pillar stones — the oldest, as well as the
most recent of stone monuments — are not very numerous.
One stands in the centre of the Lierabol tumuli, another
near the Crask road from Loth mill to Kilearnan, and a
third at Lochan Treathail, Dornoch. Near the two last
are several hut circles. Monoliths also occur at Strathnaver
and at Creich, and are said to mark the spot where Scand-
inavian warriors lie buried. At Farr, near the Piscary
cairns, there is a long recumbent stone which at one time, in
all likelihood, occupied the erect position.

Scattered throughout the county are several groups of
megaliths, or large stones. From their position and char-
acter they seem to be the ruins of the tripartite chambers of
the Stone Age cairns, stripped long ago of their smaller stones
for building and other purposes.

The people of the Bronze Age in Sutherland must have
reached a comparatively high level of culture and civilization

wmn\ ■ » » *11

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. lOS

Although no querns or whorls have been found in deposits
of this period we need have no hesitation in believing that
agriculture and the art of spinning were then well known.
The possession of bronze — an alloy of copper and tin,
present in the proportion of nine parts of copper to one of
tin — shows that the natives had a system of commerce which
brought them into contact with the products and enlighten-
ment of other peoples and nations. The beauty, too, with
which they fashioned their implements, and the ornament-
ation with which they decorated their personal effects, their
weapons, adornments, vessels, and burial urns, indicate that
they not only mastered the mechanical details of the material
they worked upon, but that they also possessed feelings of
culture and refinement of an advanced kind. There are,
indeed, many facts and indications that go to prove that they
had more of the comforts, and even luxuries, of life
than we could think possible at so remote a period.

III. — The Iron Age.

Iron, the true beginning of civilization in Europe, must
have been known in Sutherland at least 1 50 years before the
Christian era. Sites of ancient iron furnaces are found at
Loch Unes, I^ch Merkland, l^irg, Golspie Links, Suisgil
Burn, Durcha, and Altasbeg, near Durcha. Some of these
may have been in use as far back as the close of the Bronze
Age. At first the process of manufacture must have been
primitive enough, and may have been carried on without the
aid of an artificial blast — the ore being simply calcined or
roasted in a wood fire exposed to the force of the breei^.

Implements of iron belonging to the earlier iron period
are exceedingly rare, owing to the destruction of the metal

Io6 SUTHERLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRY.

by oxidation. Dagger blades, dirks, spear-heads, and sock-
eted chisels form part of the contents of the Kintradwell
and Cairn-liath brochs In the Cairn-liath broch were also
found two plates of brass, hammer-marked in lines across
the surface, and a siher fibula of the bow-shaped and
cruciform type really Celtic in character, though associated
with the late Roman period. Objects belonging to the later
Iron Age, which may be said to coincide with the time of
the Vikings, are not unfrecjuent. Swords and fragments
of swords and other weapons have been found at Strath-
halladale, Strathy, Kildonan, and Farr. A curious bronze
swivel, apparently of the A'iking age, has just been reported
by Dr. Joass. It is a beautiful and solid piece of workman-
ship, and was possibly used in helmet decoration or in
connection with falconry.

Of more interest, however, than the few relics that have
come down from the Iron Age are the structures belonging
to this period -the brochs, the vitrified forts and eirde-
houses.

Brochs are very abundant, there being not fewer than
sixty throughout the county. Commanding, as they usually
do, elevated positions along the sides of straths and valleys
they form attrac:tive and picturesque objects in the landscape.
Dun Dornadilla and (Visile Cole are the most remarkable in
the Sutherlandshire group. Dornadilla is 24 feet high, and
the part of it still standing is built of undressed stones
without cement or mortar. The outer circumference
measures 150 feet, the diameter of the inner court is 29 feet,
and that of the wall 8 feet 8 inches. In the centre of the
wall, and really dividing it into two concentric walls, there is
a series of small chambers, like the dingy rooms in a Feudal

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. I07

Castle. On the outside there are no windows, and there is
but one doorway which leads through the breadth of the
wall to an inner court, or area, exposed to the sky. From
this court there is access to the chambers on the ground
floor ; and above these are the remains of a second gallery
reached by a rough stairway. Cordiner, who visited the
fort in 1780, mentions that three distinct rows of galleries
could be traced within the walls, and that he walked up
and down different stairs from the first to the second storey,
but that the third storey was partially filled up owing to the
displacement of the stones. The different rows of apart-
ments in the heart of the wall are lighted by slits or apertures
looking into the interior area. Castle Cole, in Strathbrora,
is even more striking than Dun Dornadilla. It is built on a
steep eminence, guarded on three sides by hills, and
defended at the weakest parts by a double row of forti-
fications made of rude stone masonry. Like the common
type it also had several galleries in the centre of the wall,
separated from each other by a flooring of flags or smooth
stones fitting into the wall. Portions of this fort are still
about 15 ft. in height.

These lingular erections — which are peculiar to Scot-
land, and may have been built as centres of defence against
the Norsemen — have been carefully investigated by archae-
ologists. Querns, stone lamps, whetstones and pounders;
combs, pins, and bone buttons; several instruments of
bronze, oxidized fragments of iron, and ornaments of silver
and gold, are among the objects that have been found.
Besides these manufactured articles there have also been
discovered parts of the human skeleton, bones of the lower
animals, and the horns of the rein-deer, then common in the

I J

1 08

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

north of Scotland. Traces of charred grain have likewise
been detected, indicating that the occupants of the buildings
wefe not ignorant of agriculture.

Vitrified Forts. This is the name given to certain
stone enclosures whose walls bear traces of having been
subjected to the action of fire. They are generally situated
on the flat summits of hills which occupy strong and easily
defended positions. No lime or cement has been found in
any of these structures, but all of them present the peculiarity
of being more or less consolidated by the fusion of the
rocks of which they are built. At one time they were
supposed to be limited in their range to Scotland : they are
now known to exist in Ireland, in Upper Lusatia, Bohemia,
Silesia and Thuringia, in the provinces on the upper banks
of the Rhine, and in several parts of France.

A fairly good example of this unique kind of ancient
stronghold is Dun Creich. The Dun has a conical top
approached only from the west side. The east side slopes
steeply to the sea, and the south is also precipitous
seaward. The west side is the most open and exposed, and
has a low rampart, partly laid open where it shows consider-
able vitri faction — the rocks being solidly fused together. All
the other sides are naturally protected more or less by their
steepness. There are traces of a low rampart across
the east end, a few yards inwards from the edge of the Dun,
which is also apparently vitrified. In the centre of the Dun
is a circular hollow, which used to be a well, but which is
now filled with stones to prevent cattle from falling into it
The rock of which the vitrified rampart is built is the
ordinary mica-schist, a rock which could be readily fused in

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. 109

the open air by means of a wood fire, the alkali of the wood
serving in some measure as a flux.

Earth-houses, or underground dwellings — primitive in
structure as anything in the Stone Age— are comparatively
modern, being later than the Roman occupation. The
Earth-house at Enibol, though smaller than the usual type,
is 33 ft. in length, 4 ft. in height, and for the greater part o<
its length only 2 ft. wide, expanding to ^j4 ft. for some
distance at the extreme end. The sides are built and the
top roofed over with stones. These singular structures,

EIRDE HOUSE, ERRIBOL. (CROSS SECTION).

known in some districts as " fairy houses," were no doubt
used by the natives, in times of stress, as places of conceal-
ment for their wives and children and goods. The range of
the type stretches from the south of Scotland to the Shet-
land Isles. There is also an Irish and a Cornish group with
some distinct peculiarities of their own.

IV. — Historical Age.

Passing from purely Pagan times, and coming down to
the Christian or historical era, we find many objects of deep
archaeological interest.

In the Duke of Sutherland's museum, at Dunrobin,
there is a stone on the one side of which is a highly finished
Celtic cross extending the whole length of the stone. The
limbs and th^ mai;^in are filled with panels of varied ^nc)

112 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

•{

■ i

I
1

: is modern, being built by the second Duke between 1845

*f and 1851.

Castle Borve must have been at one lime a formidable

; i stronghold, .(for picture see page 41). It is built on a

» promontory jpined to the land by a narrow pass a few feet

, f in breadth, which had been guarded by a draw bridge.

^ Beyond the pass there is a large space of ground where the

ruins of the castle and the guard's houses, and the remains
f of a trench and wall can still be traced. Beneath the castle

' in the rock below there is a natural passage 200 ft. in

length, like a grand arch, which can be traversed by a row-
boat. The castle was a stronghold of the Norse during the
; time of their supremacy. There is a tradition that it was

* built by Thorkel, who agreed to receive no payment if any

flaw could be found in the work on its completion. When

J the castle was finished the Viking and his lady expressed

themselves as satisfied with it, but the north outer wall
'f could only be examined properly from the sea in a boat

Meantime the lady contrived to let a black thread hang

* down the wall from the principal window. When Thorkel

detected what he took to be a crack in the wall he demanded

, to be lowered by a rope that he might examine the nature

^ of the defect. This was done, but the rope was dropped

from above, and the unfortunate architect was drowned.

Thorkel is reputed to have lived about the nth century,
i With the decadence of the Norse power the castle

became the property of the Mackays of Farr. It was

destroyed by the Earl of Sutherland in 1551. lye Mackay
*■ — against whom there were several charges, one being treason

— was summoned to appear before Queen' Mary at Inverness,
. ^ut he, not feeling sure of his head, disregarded the com-

THE ANTIQUITIES OF SUTHERLAND. II 3

raand. John, Earl of Sutherland, was thereupon commiss-
ioned to invade Mackay's territory. This he did, and after
a short siege took Castle Borve, and hanged Rory Mac Ian
Mhor, its captain. lye in the interval invaded Sutherland,
and later on distinguished himself in the Border wars
against the English.

Caisteal Bharruich — an old square tower of con-
siderable strength placed on an eminence on the east side
of the Kyle of Tongue (see page 27) — is stated in the
Origines Parochiales to have been on one occasion the
residence of Kali Hundason, who made an effort to conquer
Scotland on the death of Malcolm II. The invasion in
which King Kali acted a part, and which proved so dis-
astrous to the Northmen, took place in the year 1033. It is
suggested by others that the castle was built in the nth
century by Bishop Bar, who was the founder of Bar's
church, at Dornoch, demolished in 1570.

Not far from Castle Bharruich, on an islet in Loch
Hacon, are the remains of a building about 30 ft. square,
with walls nearly 6 ft. in breadth. There is no door or
window, although the parts of the walls still standing are
over 6 ft. in height. Tradition says it was built by the wife
of a Viking as a retreat where she could meet with her
favoured lover during her husband's absence on the North
Sea. More probably it was built by Hacon, Earl of Orkney,
who lived in the beginning of the 12th century, and was
intended as a shooting rendezvous. This curious and
interesting erection is called Grianan^ or summer-house.

Helmsdale Castle, (see page 45) now in ruins, was
built by the 7th Countess of Sutherland in 1488. It is noted
as the scene of the murder of the nth Earl of Sutherland

114 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

and his Countess in 1567. The Earl's aunt, Isobel,
poisoned them while at supper, and would also have poisoned
heir son, but the draught intended for hira was taken by
her own son, who died two days afterwards. The instigator
of this horrible crime was George, Earl of Caithness, who
soon after became guardian of the young Earl that so
narrowly escaped the fate of his parents. It was while acting
in the capacity of guardian that this unscrupulous man is
said to have destroyed all the Sutherland Charters and
Papers he could find — an irreparable loss not only to the
noble house of Sutherland, but also to the history of the
nation.

Ardvreck Castle, the ancient seat of the MacLeods
of Assynt, occupies a beautifully picturesque position at the
end of a long rocky peninsula near the head of Loch
Assynt. It was built about 1590, and is memorable as the
place where the great Marquis of Montrose was detained on
his capture in this district. After the fatal rout of Inver-
charron he and the Earl of KinnouU betook themselves for
safety to the heights of .A.ssynt. Here they wandered for
some time, until the Earl, faint and footsore, was not able
to travel any further, and was left among the mountains to
perish. Montrose would have also followed his example
were it not that he chanced to come upon a hut in the hills
where he was supplied with bread and milk. Meantime
Neil MacLeod, Laird of Assynt, got a hint of the situation,
and sent out search-parties everywhere in hope of capturing
the fugitives. Some of them met with the unfortunate
Marquis and brought him to Ardvreck. Montrose tried
hard to obtain his liberty by making all kinds of promises,
but MacLeod would not be bribed, and handed him over to

[ ANTIQUITIKS OF SUTHERLAND.

the authorities. He was executed at Edinburgh on the aist
May, 1650. Close to Ardvreck, on the opposite shore, is
Calda House, erected about 1660, by Kenneth MacKenzie,
3rd Earl of Seaforth, and destroyed by fire towards the
middle of last century.

FOLK LORE,

liY
A. POLSON, J. P., C.C, DUNIJKATH.

To the Folk-lorist the county of Sutherland is peculiarly rich.
This is partly accounted for by its immense area, which on
the west borders the stormy Minch, across which must have
been carried to it many of the \Vest Highland Tales, that
here found fitting environment, and therefore took root. On
the north its harbours afforded a shelter for the Vikings and
their descendants, some of whom, after they had harried
Orkney and Shetland, came to this county, and with them
brought their Norse notions ; while the east coast was
the home of a people of somewhat different origin, who,
when they first came, could not leave their superstitions
behind. Again, the inhabitants of the interior who knew
little of the then more numerous dangers of the surrounding
seas must have had notions of their own.

But whatever outside influences may have furnished the
ancient Sutherlanders with their beliefs, the proverbial and
peculiarly lively imagination of the Celt, always much influ-
enced by natural vicissitudes, must have cast its weird
glamour over the whole. Little wonder it therefore is that
to them the low-lying brooding mists, the numerous dark
sullen tarns, the dreary moorland across which flitted the
"will o' the wisp," should be peopled by creatures having

FOLK LORE. 117

peculiar powers, whose favour they would do well to court ;
and these supposed powers, it has been asserted, not without
reason, are the remains of a religion anterior to Christianity,
and which Christianity has not yet rooted out. They are
now, how^ever, disappearing more (juickly with the decad-
ence of the ceilidh^ which has in great measure been
supplanted by the newspapers and books which Sutherlanders
use so abundantly.

The superstitions of the various parts of the county differ
widely, and it is not to be supposed that what follows is
believed in by all the people, or that any native of the county,
however superstitious, reckons a tithe of them among his
beliefs. They are, it must be understood, merely the
summary of a collection which the writer has been making
for quite a number of years.

To all who have given the subject of folk-lore any
attention it has become apparent that superstitions cling
round every stage of life, and that nearly all of them are
connected with a desire to peer into the unknown and
unknowable future. They begin with a person^s birth and
end only after his death.

Following this order we find that the belief is entertained
in Sutherlandshire, as elsewhere, that a child born on a
Sabbath will be more fortunate than one born on any of the
other six days of the week. Although one does not here
think of * chime hours,' the child born at midnight will grow-
up to * see things ' hidden from others — to have, in short,
the gift of second sight. It would be curious to ascertain if
those who in the Highlands claim this gift were born at this
hour * when churchyards yawn.' If the little one have a caul
or thin membrane on the head >vhen born, it will be espec-

ii8

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

ially lucky, and cannot be drowned while the fortunate hood
is preserved. At least one Highland clergyman — a Catach —
now alive, had one such, and his career is eagerly watched by
those who know of this circumstance in connection with his
birth. This caul also prevented fairies or evil spirits secretly
taking the little child away and leaving one of their ow^n in
its place. Much more firmly believed in is * the evil eye,' to
the sinister influence of which unbaptised children are much
exposed. For this, baptism is, of course, reckoned a cure,
but if for any reason, that is not available for a smitten child,
then water has to be carried from a running stream over
which the living and the dead pass (from under a bridge),
gold and silver coins placed in it, after which it is sprinkled
on the child in the name of the Trinity. To be effectual, the
w^ater carrier must speak neither going nor returning — must,
in witch-doctors' parlance, * carry it dumb.' It is also consid-
ered lucky and a precursor of rising in the world, that a child,
after leaving its mother's room for the first time, should go
up stairs rather than down. History has made this good in
the case of many Sutherlanders born in one storeyed lowly
crofters' houses, in which were no stairs to descend, and who,
in after life, climbed well up into the world. It is still
believed that it is unsafe to leave a cat in the room in which
a baby is sleeping, as pussy is thought to be able to choke it.
If the child be discontented and frequently puts out its
tongue, it can only be soothed by something which the
mother longed for but did not get.

The rite of baptism to >vhich much importance is attached,
is, it is to be regretted, still entwined with many superstitions.
Thus, only a * lucky person ' is allowed to accompany the
parents to the church or rendezvous, carrying with her z,

FOLK LORE. II9

piece of bread and cheese, which is given by her, as from
the child, to the first person met, after the performance of
the ceremony. When children of different sexes are to be
baptized at the same time, care is taken that the boy is
baptized first, for it is thought that if this order be reversed
the lad will grow up beardless, and the girl on arriving at
womanhood will, to her grief, be possessed of the hair he
lacked. To be lucky the child ought to cry when the
ceremony is being performed, and it is conjectured that this
has originated in the fact that unclean spirits cried aloud
w^hen driven out by our Saviour.

The water sprinkled on the forehead is seldom wiped off,
and to get something on which the baptismal water has
fallen is to be possessed of a charm, and a mother some-
times puts pins in the baby's breast before baptism, so that
she may have something holy to give away to her friends,
though even to them she will on no account divulge the
child's name before baptism. As the child grows up, a gura-
stick of juniper wood ought to be given it, as that will prevent
its having toothache at a later age. From this time forward
until the period has arrived when marriage is to be thought
of, the youth is liable to no special danger from *evil
eye,' witches, or fairies, and attention is paid only to those
precautions which it is necessary all should take.

Marriage.

Marriage, though certainly regarded as a most important
step, does not seem in Sutherlandshire to be surrounded by
the very numerous notions which hold in the southern part
of the kingdom. Sutherland nigheans have few love "charms"
and fewer means of ascertaining the form, features, and

I20 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

fortunes of their future partners. They are on the whole
c:ontent to wait. Of the few "charms" there are, most belong,
it is strange to say, to the vegetable kingdom. Thus they
know that if the leaves of the elder tree be variegated, a
wedding is sure to pass that way, and on Hallowe'en maidens
sometimes still sow hemp as they did in the days of Burns,
and repeat the words : —

'* Hemp seed I sow thee,
My love I do not know thee,
Whether by land or whether by sea,
Pray come and harrow this for me,"

and expect to sec the future partner come to do the harrow-
ing. Much more faith is placed in dreams, and the favourite
and quickest method of having these is to eat a salt herring
before going to bed, and if one is to have a lover at all he is
sure to appear with a drink of water to quench the consequent
thirst. The years during which a girl still has to remain single
are best known by counting the cuckoo's notes in Spring.
When, however, the * contract' or formal betrothal is
celebrated, the three weeks which intervene before the
wedding is a time when young men and women may be
similarly smitten by rubbing shoulders with the bride or
bridegroom. They attend church on alternate Sabbaths, and
on the night previous to the wedding there is much hilarity,
but little forecasting of futurity at the feet washing, only
when that is over they ought to sleep on different sides of
running water, and next day it is best that they should not
meet until they do so before the minister, and it is even
better to get drenched with rain than to meet a funeral
procession either going or coming. On leaving the church

FOT.K LORE. 121

after the ceremony they should be preceded by a married
luck-insuring couple. When the house is reached bread is
thrown over the bride's head, and for this there is a scramble,
as there also is for the small silver coin which she on that
day wore in her stocking, and which is always thrown among
the company after she has retired. The finder of the coin
is reckoned as pretty sure to be the first of that company to
give cause for another similar happy gathering. When the
bride and bridegroom leave home for the first time they
should not, if possible, go out by the same door. After
this, they with wonderful quietness and quickness settle down
to their new life, and while health, wealth and prosperity
continue, pay less and less heed to auguries and charms.

Death.

But by and by, the dark messenger comes to them as to
all, and its advent Sutherlanders have, in common with
nearly all Highlanders, invested with peculiarly painful pre-
monitions, for they certainly are mindful of their latter end,
and many are the tokens which recall it to their memories.
Unusual sights or sounds are readily construed as meaning
that they are to be *' called." Animals, generally, are assigned
a sharper vision than human beings in this respect. Thus, a
cock which persists in crowing more than usual, and
more especially if it does so at night, is deemed so sure a
precursor of news of death that it is usual to go to the roost
to look in what way its head is pointing, for from that
direction will come the sad news. The unusual howling of
dogs is another pretty sure omen, and sometimes a dog is
said to howl with its head pointing in the direction of the
dying one. When, at night, horses shy without apparent

122 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

cause, they are believed to see something which human eyes
cannot, and which is thought to be a phantom of a funeral
which will soon pass that way. Birds —even innocent robins,
tapping at a window on a winter's morning — denote death,
no less surely than the demoniacal laughter of an owl in the
neighbourhood. The sight of a Will o' the Wisp is a sure
forerunner of death, and the direction in which it goes is
eagerly watched by the seer. " Corpse candles " are, how-
ever, a warning to the persons who see them that their time
has come. Phantom funeral processions were often seen,
and it was always considered best for the seer to stand aside,
and let them pass, which they quietly did, but if relief were
offered, the seer mi^ht expect to be remorselessly trampled
on by the cortege. In his life of ** The Petty Seer," Mr.
Maclennan tells the story of Janet Melville, Doll of Brora,
who once accompanied such a cortfege from Greenhill to Loth,
a distance of about fivt miles. It seems that Janet, who
while serving with the minister of Loth, was visiting home at
The Doll, and returning somewhat late at night saw the
procession going forward in front of her, and walking quickly,
caught it. She knew and spoke to several of those in it, but
received no answer. She heard the man in charge give the
order for * relief,* when those who bore it on their shoulders
were changed. She, little thinking what it was, accompanied
it to the churchyard, saw the coffin lowered into the grave,
which was duly filled up, and then the whole vanished out
of her sight. She now became thoroughly frightened, and
hastened into the manse. A few days afterwards, a funeral
cortege, composed of the very people she mentioned as
having seen on that night, reached Loth churchyard, and
buried a person in the very spot where shq had seen the

FOLK LORE, I 23

spectre burial take place. Other * foregarfigs ' are numerous
and awe-inspiring enough, such as Ufe village joiners hearing
at the dead hour of night phanlbm joiners at coffin-making,
or even in broad daylight seeing pieces of wood, usually laid
aside for coffins, being moved by no human hands, but by
what can only be the ghost of ihe person about to need it.

MEDICAL.

The journey from birth to death is very seldom accom-
plished without much intervening physical suffering, and the
mass of medical folk lore which preceded the modern book
lore and * first aids' is believable only when it is remembered
that for each of the many ills which flesh is heir to there are
many remedies. For every ill, Sutherlanders believed some-
thing ought to be dotte, that applications of something ex-
ternally or internally had to be made — ^just as not long ago a
woman who scalded her foot, and not knowing exactly what
to do, besmeared it with marmalade.

Half a cure is to get the physician to understand the dis-
ease ; and the method of arriving at the loca/e and nature of a
disease varies; but two samples of doctoring lately
practised in the county must be sufficient. Take on three
consecutive mornings from a place over which the living
and the dead pass three pebbles which have been
covered by running water, mark them head, heart, and limbs
respectively, put them into the fire until hot, let them next be
placed in a basin of cold water, of which a few mouthfuls
taken for several mornings will work a cure, no matter
whether tlie disease be located in head, heart, or heels. But
even the superstitious seem to believe in specific rather than
universal remedies, and as there are separate cures for

124

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

I
1

\
\

separate diseases, it is necessary to be certain of the exact
ailment before applying the remedy. This is done as follows :
Take a worsted thread, wind it round a spoon — preferably a
horn one —name the disease the person is supposed to be
suffering from, and then pass it three times round the crook,
watching meanwhile if the thread comes off in the operation.
If it does, the patient does not suffer from the disease named,
but if the thread stays on, he does, and as the doctors' books
say, * then apply the usual remedies.'

For toothache, which surely bears the bell among diseases,
no diagnosis is necessary, and, if persistent, it is oftenest
charmed away by far more gentle means than the dentists*
forceps. One of these charmers was, until removed by death,
a weaver who, Silas Marner-like, lived in a lonely cottage,
and alone, save for the converse he held with some weekly
sensational newspapers, and visitors who found him an inter-
esting retailer of old world ways. When a sufferer asked if
he could cure toothache, he replied with characteristic caution
" Indeed, some people are saying that I can, but perhaps
yours is not of the kind that I can cure." On being assured
that his cure would be tried, he without more ado went to an
inner sanctum, and in about a quarter of an hour emerged
with a folded piece of paper, which he said was to be worn for
seven days underneath the waistcoat and over the heart, but if
when relief came, the patient told the means by which it
came, the pain would return. On the paper being opened, the
following was found written in a very very shaky hand : —

" Petter was sitting on a marable stone, weping. Jesus came
by and said, '* What els (ails) ye. Petter answered and said,
" tuaack (toothache). Jesus answered and said, ** be ye weel
from that, Petter, and not ye only, but everyone that believe

-I

V /•

<•',

FOLK LORE. I25

on me, Petter, may the Lord Jesus Christ bless his own words,
and to him be all the praze (praise), Amen."

Evidently, it was long long ago known to dwellers in the
north that a strong faith is about as powerful as any drug in
the pharmacopoeia. A small piece of broom — and this
savours strongly of witchcraft — kept in the mouth for som
time after a charm has been muttered over it, is also a cure.
Perhaps chemists can tell whether there be any curative sub-
stance in it which would make it equally efficacious before
being thus charmed. Another specific which is known to
cure toothache is to take a common earthworm, carry it in
the mouth "dumb" to the next parish, and there bury it.
This is perhaps a little difficult to do in the Highlands, where
everybody knows everybody else, and where, if you do not
pass a remark regarding the weather to everyone you meet,
you are thought to be very proud, or to entertain them a
grudge. My informer tells me that she knows of several
persons who were cured in this way, and among them, her-
self; only, in order to be unseen, she left home at 3 a.m. One
scarcely knows, in a case like this, whether to pity most the
poor worm or the poor patient.

The belief that the seventh son who is also the seventh
child of the same father and mother, is a " born doctor," is
common all over the country, but in the north of Scotland
the poor fellow is not allowed to prescribe his cures, he must
act them. And of the many which he is able to perform
the two following may be taken as fair examples. Anyone
suffering from a sore back has only to lie prone while this
doctor walks seven times up and down on it. Should the
sufferer be unable to bear this trampling it will suffice that the
doctor step across the patient the same number of times.

■'i

126

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

But it is in the case of " King's Evil " that he is most useful.
To effect a cure the following procedure is necessary : —

Take before sunrise some water from a well opening
towards the north. Carry it dumb to the patient's house,
and with this, the seventh son must in the forenoon, and
before tasting any food, bathe the diseased part, say a short
prayer, and spit on the water. This treatment must be
continued for seven whole weeks, and for all this the poor
doctor is to expect no fee. But this hydropathic treatment
is humane when compared with that for fits, which is that a
live cock of which every feather is black and the legs and
beak yellow, be buried in the very spot where the fit first
came on.

When it is considered that so much good arises from the
using of the mineral waters of the home and continental
spas, it is not to be wondered at that sometimes the super-
stitious should ascribe supernatural powers to them. But
strangely enough though there are hundreds of lakes in
Sutherlandshire, only one or two are regarded as possessing
healing vii tues. The most celebrated of these is Loch Monar
in Strathnaver, which may work a cure on any morning, but
is particularly effective on the first day of May. Many
stories are told as to how this lake acquired its power, but
the one most generally accepted is as follows : —

On its banks lived a woman who was possessed of a
talisman, which, on the payment of a silver coin to its owner,
gave a sure and speedy recovery to the donor, no matter
what his or her disease might be. It must have been rather
an ugly loss to the poor woman that she persistently refused
to let the talisman do its good work if the donation were
given by proxy, and to the sceptical this ought to be proof

FOLK LORE. 127

enough that she performed no cure for love of gain. But
the maxim about the powerful being always envied by the
powerless found no exception in this case, and the poor
woman was attacked by a veritable scoundrel of the name
of Gordon, who ** burglariously and feloniously " attempted
to lighten her of her cherished talisman, and so hard was
she " put to " that she actually threw it into the lake crying
"Mo nkr, mo nar" (Anglic^ " for shame, for shame") and
from that time to this the lake bears the name of Loch Monar.
Though the talisman was thus lost to sight it became to
memory dear, for it was soon found that the lake would now
under rather peculiar conditions do the work of the talisman
to all, save persons of the name of Gordon ! How his clans-
men must have execrated him for being foiled by a woman.
Now for the conditions. The believing patient has to come
to the lake, bathe, dress, deposit a piece of silver and be out
of sight of it ere sunrise. Though the coins thus deposited
were protected by the threat that whosoever took them away
also took the depositor's disease, very very few coins are now
to be seen within its margin.

It is the speciality of at least one woman in Sutherland-
shire to extract any dust or specks which may have
accidentally got into a person's eye. She tells that she
requires to know into which eye the speck has got and what
the sufferer's name is, that then she proceeds alone either
before sunrise or after sunset, to a well opening to the north,
utters a few words of Gaelic, takes a mouthful of the water
in which when she puts it out again she invariably finds the
troublesome speck. When asked as to how she got such
peculiar power, she quite willingly tells that the Gaelic
words which seem to constitute the charm were told her by

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRV.

her father who was an elder in the kirk, aod that he got
them from an aged woman on her death-bed. This power
can only be possessed by one person at a time, and to
propagate it she repeats the charm to one person in her life-
time, and he in his life-lime to one woman to whom the
power comes after its former possessor's demise. " Many,"
she always adds, when she has told how it Is done, "would
not like to be able to do this because I must not take any
money for doing it, for when my father gave it me, he said,
" Freely ye have received, freely give."

It is a pity, that it has to be added that although only
such specialists have the power of giving good health, yet
it is believed to be in the power of most malevolent persons
to give ill-heallh by means of the corp-creadh (clay body).
For this purpose a clay effigy of the doomed one is made,
pins are stuck al! over it, and then it is placed under falling
water which, as it washes the clay away, will in some sym-
pathetic way as surely sap away the health and means of the
condemned person.

Though the methods of effecting cures are legion, few of
them, such as the wearing of earrings for sore eyes, are
practised openly, most of them are nowadays preferably
practised in secret — if possible without the knowledge of a
second person, as when one suffering from a " sty " secretly
pulls a single hair from a black cat and rubs it nine times
over the pustule.

DiviN,

The examination of a people's folk-lore must be more
interesting than relics having an antiquarian value only, for
these beliefs have a double meaning. They not only in

FOLK LORE. 1 29

some measure throw a light on how people lived and built
up their beliefs in the past, but also on the means by which
they thought, and have managed to get others to think after
them, that they can divine the future. A few of these
common in the county may be given. If it be found that any
of our neighbours have meeting eye-brows they had better
be avoided as unlucky, whereas if they have closely set
teeth they may be regarded as greedy, but if they be possessed
of teeth set widely apart their friendship ought to be culti-
vated as they are sure to be generous and prosperous. To
dream about teeth, however, is to foreknow that sorrow of
some kind is at hand. For oneself coming events cast their
shadows before in a variety of ways. An itch in the nose,
usually called a " mermain,*' betokens the early arrival of a
letter or a stranger ; the turning hot of the left ear shows that
some one is speaking well of us, while a similar heating of the
right denotes the reverse, and a loud tingling in the ear is warn-
ing enough that the sufferer will soon hear of the death of an
acquaintance. An itching of the right eye betokens joy, an
itching of the right palm denotes that money will soon be
placed in it, while an itching of the foot plainly foretells
that a journey must soon be undertaken. The white specks
on our finger nails are supposed to have a meaning quite
s^pait from the cause which gave rise to them. The explan-
ation in Sutherlandshire is : —

Thumb, ... ... a gift.

Forefinger, ... ... a beau.

Middle, ... ... a friend.

Third, ... ... a foe.

Fourth, ... ... a journey.

132 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

morning with any unlucky first foot, of whom the most
undesirable was a flat-footed, red-haired woman. Even the
cattle were not forgotten on New V'ear's day, as a good extra
sheaf of unthrashed corn given to them was supposed to
insure plenty throughout the coming year. Besides attaching
importance to the first person met, when beginning a journey,
it was considered advisable to ask and get a pin from the first
person rnet, whereas it was extremely unlucky to turn back
for anything forgotten. When servants set out for another
situation, it is the proper thing to throw a shoe after them,
quite as much as to do the same to a newly married couple.
Perhaps one of the worst superstitions, and one which, for
the sake of the people, were better dead, is the belief that it
is extremely unlucky to report a thief, as he might, in conse-
quence, become mad, but if the thief, being penitent, should
wish to return the stolen goods, it is safest not to accept
them. A story is told of a pig, once stolen, of which a part
was afterwards restored to its owner, with the result that his
daughter was choked while eating the first piece of it which
was cooked. As a contrast to this, it is believed that whoever
perjures himself commits an unpardonable sin, and that a
suicide is not expected to go to heaven. Of other lost articles
it is considered lucky to find a pin, and the person who lifts
it lifts luck, whereas the finding of a knife, however valuable,
betokens future ill.

Many other superstitions must have been brought into the
country at a comparatively recent date, as the ground on
which they proceed had no existence in the Highlands until
lately ; thus, the breaking of a looking glass is thought to
forebode misfortunes, and should a child notice its own
reflection before it is one year old, it will die before reaching

FOLK LORE. 1 33

its prime. Similarly, the divinations of fortunes in tea-cups
must be another recent superstition. Again, some very
widely believed superstitions do not hold in this county.
Very few attribute any importance to the spilling of salt, else
it would woe betide the women who work at herring curing.
Recently, however, it has come to the writer's notice that one
woman spilt salt at an enemy^s door, in the hope of doing
harm, and harm was done, for a row not yet patched up was the
result. The beliefs regarding thirteen sitting down at a meal,
or of crossing one's knife and fork are very seldom heard,
and few, if any, think anything of passing under a ladder.
Regarding the moon, the most widely accepted supersti-
tion here, as elsewhere, is that a change of weather is to be
anticipated ac each quarter, and that it is lucky to have a
piece of woollen clot^ or a silver coin in the hand, when first
the new moon is seen. A later addition to this is that it is
unlucky to see the moon through glass.

Witchcraft.
Though the belief in the power of witches seems at present
to be dying fast, it is as yet by no means dead At all times
savage and semi-civilized peoples appear to have believed in
it, and among African tribes it is still rampant in all its
horrors. In Bible times, summary measures were adopted
towards those who professed to have this power, and pre-
tended to use it to terrify those who were weak-minded,
and in Mosaic times they were silenced only by the injunction
in Exodus xxii. i8, ''Thou shalt not suffer a witch to live. '
Since the Roman Catholic Church, four hundred years ago,
laid down in its Malleus Makfirarum (Hammer of witches),
the procedure against witches, until 1772, when the last witch

134 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY,

was burned at Dornoch for transforming her daughter into a
pony, and getting her shod by the devil, it is estimated that
no fewer than thirty thousand persons were put to death for
this crime in Great Britain. Witches are now, however, by
a statue of George IV. prosecuted only as rogues and vaga-
bonds, and very very seldom as such. As elsewhere, those
who in Sutherland had occult powers attributed to them,
generally have some peculiarity. If a woman is of a masuline
type, with say enough hair on her face to make a schoolboy
envious, and particularly if she lives alone, and preferably in
a lonely house, or is dumb or dwarfed, and perhaps cunning
and malevolent, and has prophesied some evil to some
unfriendly person which has actually come to pass, her
character as a witch is soon firmly established. Rev. Mr.
Mac Donald, Reay, tells of a woman who asked a coach
driver for a Mift' He refused, and she simply said, "Very
well, I will be in Thurso before you." A mile further on one
of his horses fell dead, and he had the mortification of seeing
the professed witch pass him in triumph. No one since then
will willingly refuse her a drive.

Witches are reputed to take the form of various animals.
Sometime ago they were supposed to take the form chiefly of
black cats. Pennant, in his first Tour to Scotland^ published
in 1 77 1, says that at that time the belief in witches was dying
out, and tells that there lived in Thurso a young man who
was tormented by them in this form. After some lime he
resolved to give them battle, and got ready his sword. When
next he was attacked he slashed right and left, and cut off
what he believed to be a cat's leg. Next day a woman
appeared who begged him to return her her leg. This he
did, and he told that he never afterwards was troubled by

FOLK LORE. 1 35

witches. To show the absurdity of the man's story, he was
asked to say in what part the woman would have been
wounded if the cat*s tail had been cut off. The form they are
now believed oftenest to assume is that of a hare, and their
chief avocation seems to be to interfere with cows and their
produce, and many are the means used to guard against
their malign influence. They were supposed to have a
special aversion to the rowan tree, and in many a part of
Sutherlandshire, where a green spot and a ruined house
show that once a family lived there, may still be seen stand-
ing a solitary old rowan, which had doubtless been planted
for the purpose of keeping witches at a safe distance. They
also hated iron, and the horse shoe — now an emblem of luck
— was nailed behind many a byre door to keep them outside.
But if the owners were shy to show their superstition so
openly, it was deemed quite as efficacious to keep in the
house a hare's stomach, as none of them that assumed the
form of that animal would then come near. If these precautions
have been taken, and the cows are still found to be without
milk in the morning, the next most effectual plan is to put a
crooked silver coin — for other shot is of no avail — into a gun
and try to shoot the hare. If it is not seen while the gun is
thus loaded, the bewitched cow should be bled, and in less
than three months the cow belonging to the witch who milked
the bled cow will die. Modern dairy teachers explain scien-
tifically how it happens that * butter will not come,' but in
Sutherlandshire they sometimes placed a silver coin in the
bottom of the churn to make it come quickly, as well as to
prevent the substance being taken away from the cream by
any sinister influence. Others prefer to let no reputed witch
have a taste of their milk, as it seems to be necessary that ere

136 SUTHERLAND AND THB: REAY COUNTRY.

any witchery can be practised, such a taste is necessary.
Others again, whose cattle have to be out during the summer
nights, draw a hair tether all round the field in which the cows
are grazing, and no hare will then venture into it.

Fairies.
Fairies are still believed in, and though the means of
inter-communication between this county and the rest of the
world must have been for ages limited enough, yet the fairy
tales current in Sutherland and the Reay country are those
common to almost the whole race, so that it would seem that
the tales which originally have been the delight of men in
the childhood of the world, are now because of their simple
charm become the delight of childhood. Fairies are repre-
sented as little men and women dressed in green, living a
life of jollity in the chamber of the *tullochs,' *brochs' or
green knolls, of which there are so many in this county.
They do little harm beyond exchanging their own children
for those of any of the people around them, though even
their own do not take kindly to the change, as they contin-
ually cry in their new homes, and depart only when fire is
applied to them. As they are represented as already possess-
ing all things most desired for comfort in this world, it is
conjectured that it is possible that they, like the Peris of the
East, may be the descendants of fallen angels, and wish to
get united to mankind in the hope of retrieving their position.
One of them is said to have asked a good man, whom she
saw reading the Bible, whether there was any hope for the
like of her, to which he replied that he knew of hope being
held out to all the sons of Adam, and to them only. Another,
who was asked who she was, is said to have replied, ** I am

FOLK LORE. 1 37

not of the seed of Adam or Abraham." This conjecture
regarding their origin is strengthened by the belief that they
are unable to steal a baptized child, and * God bless you '
said to an unbaptized one is sufficient to save it from them.
This expression seems to be able to terrify them at any time.
The story goes that the fairies were long ago tired of crossing
the Dornoch Frith in their cockle-shell boats, and resolved to
build a bridge across it. This bridge was to be a work of
great magnificence, the piers and posts and all the piles were
to be mounted with pure gold. Unfortunately, a passer by
lifted up his hands and blessed the workmen. When they
heard this they disappeared beneath the waves, the sand
accumulated, and there remains to this day the dangerous
bar and quicksands of the (iizzen Briggs or Drochaid na Fuath.
Notwithstinding their supposed descent, all ihe Sutherland
fairy tales go to show that time was never felt to be passing
by those who joined the fairy revels in their own homes, and
a story told by Campbell in his Popular Tales of the West
Highlands is an excellent specimen of those moat commonly
retailed, it is as follows : —

A man, who had just become a father, set off for I.airg
to have his child's name entered in the session books, and to
buy a cask of whisky for the christening fete. As they
returned, weary with their day's walk, they sat down to rest
at the foot of a hill, near a large hole, from which they were,
ere long, astonished to hear a sound of piping and dancing.
The father, feeling very curious, went a few steps into the
cavern, and disappeared. The story of his fate sounded
less improbable then than it would now ; but his companion
was severely animadverted on, and when a week elapsed and
the baptism was over, and still no signs of the lost one's

138 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

return, he was accused of having murdered his friend. He
denied it, and again and again repeated the tale of his friend's
disappearance down the cavern's mouth. He begged a year
and a day's law to vindicate himself, if possible; and used to
repair to the fatal spot and call and pray. The term allowed
him had but one more day to run, and as usual he sat in the
gloaming by the cavern, when what seemed his friend's
shadow, passed within it. He went down, heard reel tunes
and pipes, and suddenly descried the missing man tripping
merrily with the fairies. He caught him by the sleeve,
stopped him and pulled him out. " Bless me ! why could
you not let me finish my reel, Sandy ?" " Bless me," rejoined
Sandy, " have you not had enough of reeling this last twelve
month ? " ** Last twelvemonth," cried the other in amaze-
ment ; nor would he believe the truth concerning himself,
till he found his wife sitting by the door with a yearling child
in her arms.

Though generally harmless, they can also on occasion
take vengeance, and they are said to have chased a man
belonging to Rosehall into the sea, and destroyed a new mill
because the earth for the embankment of the mill dam had
been dug from the side of their hill. Nothing according to
common belief seems to annoy them more than interference
with their houses, and perhaps it is the dread of their venge-
ance that makes so many labourers diffident co wurk at the
opening of any of the brochs, when an antiquarian determines
to examine one. It is related that a land improver once
began to demolish a broch which stood in his fields. The
work had been carried on only for a couple of days when the
cattle began to die, the plague spread, and the demolition of
the broch was meanwhile stopped. In the course of a week

FOLK LORE. 1 39

the farmer's wife had a visit from a little woman, who said
she wanted a warming. Inquiry as to who she was revealed
that she was a resident in the neighbouring broch for ages,
and that the cattle plague was sent on them as a punishment
for the destruction of her home. Restitution of the stones
taken away was promised, and the good graces of the little
wise people could again be won only by the lighting of the
teine eigin (fire of necessity). Ere this could be effectually
lighted, every fire in the district must be extinguished, and
the hearths allowed to grow quite cold. The whole popula-
tion must then congregate on a small island in the river,
for water must necessarily be all around them. There, by
means of two dried sticks, and a considerable amount of
elbow grease, they managed to get a light. From this, the
household fires were rekindled, the plague stayed, and glad-
ness reigned once more in that district.

Theories galore to account for the origin of the belief
in fairies have been advanced, but the following is quite as
plausible as any, and is the one most commonly accepted
here. Before the Christian era, when the Celts came to
Scotland, they found a very small limbed section of the
Picts settled in the north. These, they gradually drove
further and further into the wilds, where they built the
numerous underground dwellings which are still in existence.
But the Picts had greater intelligence than the large limbed
Celts and gave them so much trouble that the belief soon
gained ground that they were of supernatural origin. There
still, indeed, lingers a belief in the deadly efficacy of the
fairy arrow (saighead sithich)^ the flint heads of which are
still embedded in the moorlands. If a Celt or any of his
animate possessions fell dead pierced by such an arrow^ and

140 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

the hand that sent it on its way was nowhere to be seen,
what more natural than to attribute it to fairies? If the
Celt lost himself in the depths of ihe forest, it is quite hkely
that by choice he would have lain down on the dry grassy
knoll, above an underground dwelh'ng, to await morning,
and while there might have heard the sounds of music and
revelry, which could only be inspired by uisgebaigh, which
word, though now the accepted Gaelic for whisky, really
means the juice of the birch or heather, from which they
are reputed to have known how to make a delicious
stimulant.

Other fairy tales there are, ghost stories, many of them
gruesome enough, abound, methods by which witches might
be met are told, explanations are numerous as to how cures
could be wrought, but we now-a-days can see that whatever
went beyond the work-a-day world of this ancient people,
whatever was beyond their immediate ken was relegated to
what to them was a region of philosophy and theology, at
which we can afford to smile. It is all the same interesting
and sometimes exciting to have a run back into the dark,
and there dimly to understand the primitive thought of our
far away ancestors, as well as what Ossian sings of as

" Gathan gr^ine nan LVithcan a dh'aom
S61a8 banail nan daoine a bh'ann."

" Sunbeams of the days that were
Social joys of men of yore."

TOPOGRAPHY,

Rev. Adam Gunn, m.a.

The subject of this chapter — the place-names of the
county — is full of interest, not only to natives, but to
antiquarians generally. The topographical record of Scot-
land is being slowly deciphered, notwithstanding the
difficulties of the task. Of late years a good deal of light
has been thrown upon the place-names of the Highlands by
the labours of Captain Thomas, Professor MacKinnon, Mr.
Alexander MacBain, Inverness, and Mr. John Mackay,
Hereford. In order to arrive at a satisfactory solution of a
place-name, the following requisites are necessary :—(^rt^
access to the oldest written form of the word, in maps and
manuscripts. In some instances this alone suffices to give a
clue to its meaning : (b) acquaintance with the physical
features of the locality is almost indispensable. Without
this, all attempts are little better than guess-work : (c) a
knowledge of Gaelic and Norse, and of the dialectic varieties
of the former. A good ear, to distinguish the nicer shades
of pronunciation, according as a consonant happens to be
flanked by a broad or small vowel, is also necessary.
This, of course, pre-supposes some acquaintance with Gaelic
phonetics : (d) last, but not least in importance, is some
knowledge of the history of the locality, as preserved often
in the native traditions. In the matter of maps and manu-

142 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

scripts we are fairly well oflfin Sutherland; and quite recently
the student of place-names has received substantial aid by
the printing of the Sutherland Charters by Sir William
Eraser, in The Sutherland Book.

The oldest map is Ptolemy's, who flourished in the second
century of our era. His map of Scotland, as a whole, is
unsatisfactory, for his initial error of placing it at right angles
to England, produces an element of confusion. The tribes
occupying Sutherland at this early period are the Caereni to
the west, the Logi in the south, while the Cornavu occupy
the northern shores and Caithness. Not a trace of these
tribes can be discovered in the topographical record. Three
capes and two rivers are also mentioned ; but critics are not
agreed as to their locality. The headlands are Verubium,
Virvedrum, Tarvedum ; the rivers, Ila, and Nabarus.

The cape-names probably denote the headlands of Caith-
ness, but the rivers are recognised as the original of lUigh
and Naver — the Helmsdale river, being in Gaelic Avon-
Illigh, Nabarus is in some MS.S. Nabaeus ; but almost all
critics are agreed that the Naver is meant. The root seems
\oh^ nav — swim; Lat. nav-is\ and Gaelic snamh. Skene
considers Ila a pre-Celtic word, and points out that // is
common in Basque topography. An examination of Ptolemy's
map of Scotland does not yield much information. We may
gather from its names, however, the fact that a Celtic popula-
tion occupied Sutherland at the beginning of the Christian
era, and for some centuries previous to it. These Celts were
Picts, and formed part of the ancient Caledonians who
opposed the Roman eagles at a later date. An Iberian or
Basque population may have preceded them, and were
probably the aborigines.

TOPOGRAPHY I 43

The Norse occupation of Sutherland for some 400 years
(800-1200 A.D.) is very clearly stamped on the topographical
record. Nearly one-half of our coast names are Norse; and
they are by no means confined to the coast, although more
frequent there. In the Orkneyinga Saga we meet with the
original form of many of these. Sometimes the Norse scribes
make use of the Celtic name; but as a rule they gave names
to the localities they visited, generally describing their
physical characteristics. As these songs were written during
the Norse occupation, or shortly thereafter, we may claim
a very respectable antiquity for many of our Sutherland
place-names.

In Bleau*s maps, we meet with the spelling of the word
as it was 200 years ago; but, unfortunately, the Rev. Timothy
Pont, minister of Canisby, Caithness, who contributed the
Sutherland portion, knew no Gaelic, and very little reliance
can be placed upon his phonetic spelling. This energetic
clergyman occasionally deviated into the etymology of place-
names on his own account. About the middle of Strathnaver
was a small hamlet called Saghair, Englished into Syre.
Saor is the Gaelic for a wright or carpenter, and of course
has no connection with the place-name ; but it appears on
the map as " the wright's field.'*

Perhaps the most valuable repository of the ancient
spelling of Sutherland place-names is to be found in the
Sutherland book, recently printed by Sir William Fraser,
containing the Sutherland Charters from the twelfth century
onwards. The large bulk of the names met with here
belong to the south-eastern portion of the county ; only a
very few of the names of Assynt and the Reay country occur
in ancient manuscripts.

144 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

It may be well at the outset to state the different classes
of place-names which are to be met with in our county. We
may conveniently range them under five heads —

1. Remnants of the pre-Celtic speech. That there was a
race of non-Celtic origin in North Britain is clear, and that
some traces of these should be preserved in place-names is
natural. We have already referred to Ila, in Bun-illigh ;
the probability is that remnants of this pre-Celtic speech enter
more largely into our topography than is generally admitted.

2. Old Gaelic words now obsolete. A good example of
this class is found in Elphin in Assynt. This is a compound
word, ail (stone), an i fionn (white), and neither word
is now in use Fionn^ white, occurs frequently in compound
words, and is often placed before its noun. Foinaven in
Durness, is probably fiionn-bheinn^ white-hill, so called from
its appearance when the sun shines on the huge masses of
rock on its summit.

3. Norse words. This class is a large one, and they are
mainly descriptive of physical features.

4. W^ell known Gaelic names, which may be easily
explained by the aid of a dictionary, and some knowledge
of Gaelic. In the following paper, these will be passed over
where they present no difficulty.

5. Double names for the same locality — generally a
Gaelic and a Norse name. Some of these are interesting.
Tongue^ for example, may be designated in three ways, (i)
Gaelic Ceann-t-sai/e, Kintail i. e. head of the salt-water. To
distinguish it from another Kintail in a neighbouring county,
it was called of old " Kintail a' Mhic-Aoidh." (2) Kirkiboll,
Norse, the Kirk-town. (3) Tonga^ Norse Tongue — from the
.slip of land running into the sea at Tongue Ferry. Now all

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 45

of these are applied to the village of Tongue ; but the parish
name is invariably in the mouths of the older inhabitants
" Sgire Chinn-taile!^

To this class also belongs the county name. Sutherland
comes from Sudrland, Norse, Southern land. It is curious
to find this name given to a county which for sixty miles
borders on the north sea Hut we must remember, that
when it was so called by the Norsemen, it embraced only
what is now the south-eastern iK)rtion of Sutherland — a
district which is still distinguished by its (jaelic name
Cataobh. Katanes -Caithness - was the name applied to
the north coast from Cape Wrath to Duncansbay Head.

The Celtic Caiaobh is an older term, and comes from
C'atti probably an oblique case of it. This must have been
a pretty numerous tribe in pre-historic times -having given
names to Caithness and Sutherland. On Celtic ground the
root is common. It occurs in (!!aturiges (cath righrean)
warlike Kings, and in Catu-slogi (Cathsluagh) warlike
people, and in the proper names Catullus, Cassivellaunus,
and Cathel. The root is cath^ war, and its prevalence among
all branches of the Celtic race is significant.

There is no Ciaelic name for what is now known as
Sutherland. Cataobh designates only the south-eastern
portion. Lord Reay's Country, (Gaelic Duthaich-Mhic-
Aoidh — Mackay's land) and Assynt, (i. - Asint^ were included
in Sutherland about 1630, when John, XIII. Harl of Suther-
land surrendered to the King the heritable offices of sheriff
and coroner of Sutherland for ;^iooo stg., and the King
added Strathnaver, Strath-halladale, Eddrachillis, Durness, and
Assynt to the district called Sutherland, and erected the whole
into a free and .separate sheriffdom. This is how the old

146 SUTHERIAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Norse Sudr land was extended to include the north and
western portions of the county. When first applied, it exactly
described its position — south of Caithness, which in Norse
limes extended along the sea-coast to Cape Wrath. This
extensive county belongs now almost wholly to the Duke of
Sutherland. The Macleods of Assynt never prospered after
the betrayal of Montrose, and the litigation that ensued. The
property passed for a time into the hands of the Seaforth
family, but finally came into the possession of the Earl of
Sutherland. 'I'he other district, which did not originally form
part of Sutherland, was the Reay country, and it too passed
into the hands of the Sutherland family in 1829, being bought
by I^rd Gower for the sum of ;^3oo,ooo.

In a paper like this it will be impossible to examine all
the place-names on the survey maps ; and it would be un-
profitable. Notice will be taken only of such words as present
some difficulty to an ordinary Gaelic scholar. Beginning with
the parish of Farr, which now includes the Sutherland jxirt
of the parish of Reay, we shall work our way westwards along
the north coast, deviating now and then into the interior of
the county, along the water courses. We may follow the
coast as far as Assynt, where we shall turn eastwards by the
parish of Creich, and strike the sea again at the Kyle of
Sutherland. From that point we may turn northwards by
the coast, and complete the circuit.

Parish of P^arr.

This extensive jxirish of 267,040 acres is, like ancient
Gaul, ** divided into three parts " by the rivers Halladale,
Strathy, and Naver. In olden times, the bulk of the popula-
tion lived in these three valleys. In the Orkneyinga Sa^a

TOPOGRAPHY. I 47

they are called the "Dales of Catanes." Of easy access
from the Orkney islands, we may infer an earlier and a more
complete Norse occupation, and the topography bears this
theory out.

Strath- halladaU comes first in order — a beautiful valley,
about 14 miles long. Halladale is Norse, hel^adale (holy dale)
Strath (Gaelic) was prefixed, when the meaning of Norse da/e
was forgotten, i'his often hap[)ens in place-names. Maenstone
in Cornwall is " stone-stone " ; the latter stone being added
when the natives forgot the meaning of Cornish ///rt^//-stone.
So (laelic Dal hall a dale. The first dal is Gaelic, and we
can always distinguish the ('eltic dal from its cognate Norse
dale by its position. In Gaelic , the generic term comes first,
thus, Dalmore is Gaelic dal, and mor large ; but I^ngdale is
Norse dale^ long dale, and comes last. Hel^a may very likely
have been a proper name.

Forsinard ?Lnd Forsinain. These are made up of Gaelic
and Norse. Fors is N. a waterfall : ard is G. high, and ain
G. low, aiue (Uovl\ fhaine, com[). o{ fan down, now obsolete/
Rob Donn has

** An rum x^fhaine tha 'san tir "
('I'he linvest room in the land).

Trantle-mor and Trantle-deg. N. here is euphonic, and is
not heard in Gaelic Traudal. The word is Norse. ** Trow "
is the lower ground through which a river runs, and dale,
Norse dalr (trow-dale). We now come to some half-a-dozen
Gaelic names lower down the strath, viz :

Croick G. cro^^ the hand, from the natural configuration.
Dalhalvaig — G. dal^ dale, and sealbha^^ sorrel.
Kealsey — G. caol^ caolas^ narrow, and / or uidh^ stream.

148 SUTHKRLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Ardachy — (>. ard^ high, achadh^ field.

Achumore — G. achadhy field, mor, big.

Cuilftarn — G. CoilUy wood, y^rir/i, alder.

Kirkton — (}. Baile-na-h-eaglaise^ was the most important
township on the Halladale. There was a church here in
Norse times — doubtless of Culdee origin. Here also was the
consecrated burying-ground for the lower parts of the strath,
and still used as such. The site of the church may yet be
seen.

GoivaL G. Gai/y stranger, and Imi/e, township.

The " strangers " were no doubt Norse. Caithness, w^here
the foreigner came to settle permanently, is Gallaobh to the
present day.

Achredigill. Norse, with the exception of ach^ achadh.

This is the first instance of Norse, giiiy a ravine, which is
very common in Sutherland ; as a terminal suffix it occurs as
frequently as dale. Sometimes it is apt to be confounded
with the oblicjue case of Ciaelic, gea/^ white. Smigel -the
name of a burn higher up the strath, shows the same
termination.

Bighouse. ( iaelic an Torr^ Norse big hus. There are
two places of this name on the strath ; and they are interest-
ing as showing the part which the sinking of the accent plays
in Gaelic phonetics. In the case of upper Big-house^ the
first syllable is accented, and with the accent thus sunk upon
it, it ceases to be used as a compound word, and appears on
the map as Begas. Its origin forgotten, it is used as a Gaelic
word. But the lower Bighouse still remains a compound word,
and it is never called Bighouse in Gaelic, but an Torr^ the
heap or fortified place, where of old a castle stood to defend
the entrance to the bay.

topo(;raphv. 149

Before cjuitting Strath-hallad;ile, it may be mentioned that
there are remains of two l*i("tish towers on opposite sides of
the river, half-way u|) the strath, and also at CiuH-anjhreaca-
dain or watchhill. These, with the fortification at the mouth
of the water, were its military defences. From Theiner's
Monumenta —?i Vatican MS. we learn that the church of
** Haludal " in 1274 contributed 94 to the Ousades, and a
similar sum in 1275, this time '' Hclwedale."

We now come to the north coast, where Norse names
prevail, \fehich is from X. meh^ sand-bank or links, and
N. 7'//', a bay, a creek. Portskerra N., /^vV, harbour, and
sker^ a skerry. Gaelic^ S}:!;eir is borrowed from this word, and
enters largely into place-names.

Baligill^ ( f. haile, township, and X. ,;v//, a ravine. The
burn to the east of the village answers N^orse ^ill ideally.
There was a ( astle on the edge of the cliff here, separated
from the mainland by a narrow neck of land ; but there are
no traditions preserved. Strathy is Ciaelic, strath. The
termination )• is probably Gaelic /, water, stream. This
forms the second of the dales opening from the north coast.
It is about 12 miles in length ; but it was not so densely
populated as the valleys of the Halladale and Naver. Its
place-names are partly Celtic and partly Norse.

Dal-bhaite is the submerged dale, Gaelic baite^ drowned,
seen in Hadenoch.

Rhi-ruadh^ Gaelic, red burn. Rhi may be a flowing
stream, or a declivity. It is very common in the diminutive
form Rhian. It is cognate with Greek reo.

Dal-tim^, Norse thin^^ where the parliament met. This
word on the map appears as Daltine, and the latter part is
easily mistaken for ieine^ fire. But the phonetics of the

150 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Gaelic forbid this derivation. Half-way up the glen, it was
the meeting place of the Norse settlers (compare Dingwall
for Thing'Vollr),

Bowset^ Norse, bo and settr : "shelling dwellings " This
se//r occurs frequently in I^wis as shader. In Sutherland,
it takes the forms se/ and sai'/e.

Dalangddk — Norse Zrt«(,''-dale-langdale.
Bra-rathy Ci. Braigh-rathie^ upper Strathy.
An t-Seilach — (>. seilach^ willow.

An uair. This is a name given to one of the tributaries
of the Strathy river. Its meaning is not quite clear, although
it has something to do with water. In the native dialect an
uair is often used for a sudden storm of wind and rain;
also for a water-spout. Allowing for the dipthongisation, the
original form should be ur\ and tira is Basque for river, water.
This is probably a pre-Celtic remnant.

Returning again to the coast, and proceeding westwards,
we come to Rrawl^ (). braighbhaile. Lendnaguilkan^ G.
Leathad^ slope. The last part is difficult, probably a Gaelicised
plural of N. gills, 'i'his would suit the natural scenery well ;
at its south end are numerous gills and gullies.
Armadale^ Norse armr^ arm of sea and dale.
Pillaoriscaig, is a sea-side hamlet at the back of Armadale.
/W/, is G. poll or N. pool, which are cognates. Aoriscaig
appears again as Ch^erscaig on Loch Shin. In both places
there is a stream and small bay. Aig is a remnant of vik.
We are left thus with aoris or overs to account for; and aross
means a river mouth in Norse (cp. Arisaig, aros-vik).

Kirtom}\ in Gaelic Ciurstamaidhy accented on first syllable,
Norse Kj'ors, copse-wood, and Icelandic hwam-r, a. little
valley. Norse words beginning with h, require a / in Gaelic

topo(;raphv. 151

phonetics. Out of holmr and hor-ja^r arise such forms as
I)un-/ulm and Tbrga-bost.

Swordly^ Norse Svardr and dak^ sward, dale.

Farr, There is a village of Farr, and Farr Point. The
parish took its name from these. (Gaelic and Norse claim the
word. Norse /rt^r, a ship (Faroe Islands), and Gaelic y^7/>f,
watching. Although a of Farr is long in English, the Gaelic
is short, fir. In ancient MS.S. it is always spelled F'ar. On
the whole a (iaelic derivation is more probable.

Crask^ G. cross-way. All the Crasks in Sutherland agree
in this respect that they denote a short pass leading from one
village to another, or from one parish into another.

Betty hill. A mo J cm name, so called from Countess
Elizal)eth, who built an inn there. The Gaelic name is
Blaranodhar^ the dun field.

Achina^ G. acliadli^ and atli a ford. ^

Inver Naver^ G. mouth of the Navcr.

Strathtiaver. If we accept Ptolemy's A'^r^/zv/y, as indicat-
ing the river Naver, the matter is finally settled. In old
MS.S. it is sometimes Strathnavernia, and often Strathnavern.
The Norsemen took possession of it early, as was likely from
its large extent and valual)le arable lands, but the old name
was probably retained. This, no doubt, is one of the dales
of which the Norse poet sings when he tells of the extension
of Earl Sigurd's power "over Scotland, Ross, and Moray,
Sudrland ?iv\6. the Dales.'' This would be about 980 a.d. ;
and as Caithness " dales " were occupied 200 years earlier,
the reference must be to the dales of modern Sutherland.
It is not likely that they secured possession without a struggle.
On this beautiful strath are several remains of circular towers,
and so situated for 24 miles inland, that intelligence could be

152 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

quickly conveyed by signals from the coast to the interior.
But there was no resisting of the foreign invader, and the
valley of the Naver records the subjugation of the Celt on
its tell-tale topographical face.

Stra'ihnavek Place-names :

Achmihourin^ i\. achadh and buir^^fiean^ ^*^'^S^i field of
fortifications.

Apigiii^ Norse ^7//, a deep ravine, is evident. Af^
uncertain.

Achchear^arr\\ G. achadh^ field. Kergarry, N. Kjarr^
brushwood, and garthr^ field.

Skelpick^ Ci. sgeilpeach^ shclvy, terraces.

Rhifail^ (1. r///, declivity,/^//, an enclosure.

Skail^ N. shieling.

Dahifia^ G. Dal^ dale, mine^ smooth, Dalmhine.

Syre (doubtful), CJaelic Sa^hair^ probably N. settr.

Dalharold^ N., Harold's dale. Some standing stones are
found here which tradition connects with a conflict fought
between Harold (Maddadson), and Reginald of the Isles
(circa 1 198). One of the standing stones is called Clach-an-
righ, the King's stone.

AchnesSy G., the waterfall on the Mallart gives name to
the place ; achadh-an-eas, field of the cascade.

Achooly G. achadh-choi/ICy field of the wood.

Grumbeg and grumhmore^ sometimes called in Gaelic
na grumbaichean^ are probably of (yaelic origin. Grum is a
variant of drum, a ridge, whence Drumbeg in Assynt. Initial
g and d are apt to change places, for the reason that in the
aspirated and oblique cases, they are pronounced similarly,
dhruim^ ghruim.

topo(;raphv. 153

Altnaharra^ N. and (i. <///, burn. Harra, Norse for
heights- com[)are Harris, so called from its hills. We have
several such burns in Sutherland, and this derivation suits
very well their character.

Mudale^ N. muir, dale.

Bad-an-t-seobha^^ Ci. bad^ clumps collection, place, and
seobhag, hawk.

Parish of Toncjue.

Its (xaelic name, Kintail, (head of the sea), was the
district name until 1724, when a separate parish was formed,
I>arish of Tongue (N. ///«c, a tongue), out of the original
extensive parish of Durness. The place-names of Tongue
are a mixture of Norse and (iaelic, the former prevailing.

Torrisdale^ N. Thors^ dale, cp. Thurso.

Achtoiiidh^ (1. achadh^ field, tobhta^ a C iaelic loan-word
from N. toft^ tuft, hillock.

Skerra\\ N. skerja^ borrowed as (iaelic sgeir. Almost all
words beginning with sg^ si\ are loan-words in (Gaelic. The
Celt disliked initial s^^. 'I'he Welshman gets over the diffi-
culty by prefixing^.

Scullomie^ N. j^^;/ (cup-shaped), h7vamr^ village.

LamigOy N. Iamb's goe.

ColbackVy N. kyie and bakki, sand-banks, so named from
the sand-banks at the mouth of the Kyle. Norse Kyie
becomes Keolm Gaelic, cp. Keoldale (Kyle dale).

Ribigill^ N. rygar-boi, ladies' township. Old spelling
Rigaboll, by metathesis Ribigill.

Tongue, N. tonga, tongue.

Kirkiboll, N. Kirkja-boll, church town.

Meiness, N. melr, sand-bank, ness, point.

154 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Skianaidi G. sgiath^ wing, ar.J aifey place ; "the wing of
the place ** is fully descriptive.

Talmifi, G. tatamh^ earth and soil, and tnine^ smooth.?

Fori Vasco. On the ordinance survey maps it is etymolo-
gised into G. port aft fhasgaidh^ port of shelter. The word
is more probably Norse, the final goe^ creek, proving its Norse
origin.

Achaninver^ achadhHin-inbhir^ Ci. inbhir^ river-mouth.

Afoiney G. am moine^ the moss or peat-moss.

Beinn Thutaigy a hill 1340 feet high. Removing the
aspiration, the original form is Tuif-aig, Aig is of frequent
occurrence as a place ending, and generally means small.
Tnif is from N. fofty knoll.

LettermorCy G /(?///>, hillside, mor^ great.

Hyshackie^ N. hiis^ house, bakkiy bank, ridge.

Ben Loyaly G. leamh and choilly elm-tree. ?

Parish of Durness.

Until 1 7 24 this parish extended from Kyle Sku on the
west to the water of Horgie, thus including modern Tongue,
Durness, and Eddrachillis. It is divided by arms of the sea
into three sections, the Moine district, including EriboU ;
Durness proper, between the Kyle of Durness and Loch
Eriboll ; and the Parph district, between the Kyle of Durness
and the Atlantic. Its place-names are mainly of Scandinavian
origin.

DurnesSy N. deer and nes point \ point of the deer.
Various other derivations have been given, but none suits the
phonetics but the above. In old MSS. and the Sagas, it is
always Dyrnes,

TOPOGRAPHY. I 55

There is a small village, Durtn, which some suppose has
given name to the parish, but the Gaelic of Durin is an
Diirinn : d is flanked by a broad vowel, and not by a small
as in Diuirineas. Besides, the parish name is very old, and
Durin, only a modern township, comes from G. dubhy black,
and rinn^ point, or raon^ field. The soil of Durin is different
from the sandy soil of the neighbouring district.

Eriboll^ N. eyrr^ pebbly-beach, and boll^ township.

HopCy river, loch, and ben ; comes from N. Hbp^ a bay,
inlet.

Arnaboiiy N. township of the eagle.

Heilim^ N. holmr^ an islet, often a rock detached from
the mainland.

Frcs^^ill^ N. .j;^/*//, a ravine, /rrf^^-rt, noisy. The name may
have been given from the noise of the sea in the caves in its
face. One of these is said to extend half a mile inland.

Polla^ G. poll^ and i, ford.

lAiidy (i. LeuihiiJy slope.

Rispondy N. rhisy copsewood, and G. beinn.

Sath^obe^^ and Stui^ifntorc. N. sand^ and j^ofy bay.

Duriney see above, under 1 )urness.

Balnakily G. builty and r///, church. There was a Culdee
monastery here. From Theiner's monumenta — a Vatican
MS. — we gather that the church here contributed fourteen
shiUings and eight pence for the crusades, in the year 1274.

KeoldaUy N. Kyle and dale.

Farrid Head, Ordnance survey map etymologises this
'\n\,o far-out-fuad ! The Gaelic is an fhairid, am /aire aite,
the watch-place.

Parph, N. hvarfy receding, a turning away.

Achimorey G. athadh, field, ///i>r, large.

156 SUTHERLAND AND THE RKAV COUNTRY.

Dall^ O. duly dale.

Kcnvick, Here there is a small bay - - wick^ which
probably is the last part of the word. On the maps it is
Cearifhag. The (Jaelic pronunciation is ceathramh-ilg. Car
is a common prefix, signifying a fortified place, from (Jaelic
caithir^ a city. We have it in this district in Car-breac^
wjiere there does not appear any trace of a fortification.

Cape Wrath, This it entirely the map-maker's name,
taken from the (Jaelic parbh. N. hiHirf. P. as an initial
sound is not Celtic ; hence the Lewisman calls it not am
Parbh^ but an Cairhh. The hill on which the light-house
stands is called an dutian, the small fort. If we agree with
many that Tanked unu in on IHolemy's map represents Cape
Wrath, and not a Caithness headland we might connect
tan^e with modern parbh^ the Greek letters / and / being
easily confounded in the MSS. On this theory, parbh would
be a pre-Celtic word.

Parish of Eddrachillis.

Eddrachillis once formed part of the parish of Durness,
It was erected into a separate parish in 1724, when Kinloch-
bervie district was added to ancient Eddrachillis^ eadar-da-
chaolas, between two Kyles- -Kyles Sku and I^xford.

It now comprises about 175 scjuare miles. The western
portion once formed part of the barony of Skelbo, and was
included in the church lands assigned by Hugh Freskyn,
ancestor of the Sutherland family, to Gilbert, the Bishop,
1200 A.D. He again bequeathed it to his brother, Richard
Moray, of Culbyn ; but the church maintained its claim in
subsequent times. About 1440, it passed into the family of
Kinnaird, of Kinnaird, by whom it was disposed in 15 15 to

topoc;raphy. 157

John Mackay of Eddrachillis, son of Mackay of Strathnaver,
the superiority remaining with the Earl of Sutherland. The
purchase of the Reay Estates restored it to the House of
Sutherland, after a lapse of 650 years.

Kinlochbervie^ G. Ceann-loch-buirbhidh^ head of Ix)ch
Buirve. There is no such loch now as Bervie. But there
are remains of a burg or fort, on an arm of Loch Inchard,
whence the name.

Ashare^ on the maps, Oldshores. There are two Oldshores.
The old spelling in Privy Seal Record is Aslarmore, Aslarbeg,
155 1. The (Jaelic pronunciation is Ashar, the first a being
long. This gave rise to the conjecture that it vs, fas-thire^ as
opposed to the sterile district of Ceathramh-garbh, rough quarter.

Sandwoody G. Seanuabhat from Norse sand^ sand, vat^
lake, the sandy lake.

Sinairidh^ (i. seanu^ airidhy old shieling.

Badcall^ G. bad^ clump, coille^ wood.

Achreisgiiliy G. ach, field, N. rhis^ coi)se-wood, and gi//, a
ravine.

Rhiconich^ (i. r///, declivity or running stream, and coineach,
mossy.

Achlighmss^ G. achadh-iuidh-anuisge, wet field.

Inchard, an arm of sea ; the last part is N fiord, the inc/i,
suggests G. iftnis, an island or peninsula, but is more likely
Norse; cp. Icelandic Inties, resting houses. Inchard is one ot
the best harbours on the coast.

Lax/ord, N. hiXy salmon, ami fiord, loch. The Gaelic is
Luisard, a corruption of the Norse.

Scourie. There is a Scouroe in Arran, which is explained
by Lytteil as a Norse term meaning Robbers' Hold, or
Buccaneers' Fort.

158 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Handa Island^ N. sandy isle.

Fana^-more^ G. Feannag^ an agricultural term, Eng. lazy
bed.

Tarbaty a common place-name all over the Highlands.
G. An Tairbeart, The old derivation tarruing-bhat^ drawing-
boats, must be given up. The characteristic of Scottish
Tarbats is, that they mostly all form peninsulas. This
suggests a Norse derivation from bhat^ vatti^ water.

Badcall-scourie (given above). There are many small
islands in Badcall bay, all bearing Gaelic names.

Duart-more^ G. dubk, ard^ height.

Kyiestrome^ N. Kyle,, and strim^ stream.

The Principal Hills of Eddrachillis are: —

Beifine-Leothaidy G. leathad^ slope.

Beinn-staCy N. stakkr^ abrupt hill.

Beinn-stroftiy N. as above.

Beinn-Arkie, N., the latter part being yir//, Norse for hill.
The first part of the word is possibly N. ark^ from its level top.

Meall Horn^ Ci. ineall,, eminence, N. horn,, oblique case of
arn-Ty eagle.

Meally Rinidhy and Altan-rinidhy G. rinn^ point.

Sabhaiy beag^ and mor, G. sabhal^ barn.

Parish of Assynt.

The parish of Assynt forms the w^estem portion of
Sutherland. Its extreme length is 36 miles. Tradition has
it that it once formed the hunting grounds of the Thanes of
Sutherland, for which it was well adapted from its moun-
tainous character. From the middle of the 14th century to
the close of the 1 7th, it belonged to a sept of the Macleods

TOPOGRAPHY. I 59

of Lewis. The last haron, Neil, the betrayer of Montrose,
lost the property after a protracted litigation, when it passed
into the hands of the Seaforth family. In 17 15, the Seaforth
estates were forfeited to the Crown ; and in 1758, Assynt
was sold to the Earl of Sutherland, with which family it has
remained to the present day.

AssvNT Place-names:

Assynt. No satisfactory derivation has been given of this
name. The Norse a-synt^ seen from afar, in reference to its
mountains, has been suggested ; but the probability lies in
favour of a Gaelic origin. Ais is an obsolete Ciaelic word for
hill 'y we have it in aisridh^ a hill, a path. Duncan Ban uses
asainn in reference to the habitat of the deer : —

*' 'S i 'n asainn a mhuime
Tha cumail na ciche
Ris na laoigh, bhreac bhallach."

A very large proportion of Assynt names are Gaelic, and
easily recognisable. The following explain themselves readily
to the Gaelic student -Inchnadamph (stags' pasture), Culkin
(back of the head), Badnaban (nun's place), Balchladich
(sea-side village), Clachtoll {clach^ stone, toll, opening, hole),
Clashnessie (waterfall), Drumbeg (small ridge), Knockan,
Culag (small wood, recess), Strathan. The following present
more difficulty :- -

Elphin, G. ail, stone, Tnw^fionn, white (both obsolete).

Ach-melvich, melvich is Norse, mel, sand-bank and vik,
bay.

Oldaney^ N. ey, islantl.

Raffifiy G. rath, a circle, Vind^onn, white

l6o SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Bracklochy G. breaCy trout and loch.

Soyea^ sheep isle, N. saudhr^ sheep, cp. Soa and Hoan^ the
latter, in Durness, an oblique case.

Feliriy G. Feith and //««, marshy, pool.

Unapooly N. bol often takes this form of pool. Una may
be a proper name (cp. Ullapool, Olave's town).

Ardvar, G. ardy high. There is a river, glen, or loch of
this name. Var may stand for mhara, sea, or bharr^ a top.
The latter is more likely. Bar^ in Sutherland, mean crops.

Neddy G. a nest, from its a[)pearance.

Stoery G. sthry a high steep cliff.

LetteressiCy G. /?///>, countryside, eas^ cascade.

Kirkai^y N. church land. There is a village, bay, and
river of the name. A Culdee establishment was here ; not
far off is Badinaban, the nun's place.

Clachtolly i\. oj)ening in a rock. Here, until quite
recently, were two large boulders, with another on the top of
them, forming an o|)ening. One piece of the upper stone
gave way at the French Revolution. It was predicted that
the structure would entirely collapse on the arrival of some
other important event ; and the Disruption of the Church in
1843 saw the prophecy fulfilled !

Tralagilly N. TrolPs gii/y giant's ravine.

Sironchrubie, ( i stroffy nose, chrubie from crubadhy crouch-
ing, bent. Crubie enters largely into place-names, cp. CrubiUy
Criiboj^Cy Sliti^ecroo/y etc.

The MOST important of the Assvnt Hills are : —

Benmor€y (i. large hill, 3230 feet high.
Cuinagy a lofty ridge, extending from Unapool and
terminating in a peak above Loch Assynt. It derives its

TOPOGRAPHY. l6l

name from the minute peak in which it terminates. G.
cuinfteagy a narrow-mouthed bucket.

Suilven (English Sugar-loaf), N. sulr^ stack, cp. Sulasgeir^
a rock, about 30 miles off the north coast.

Canisp. This hill rises to a height of 2780 feet. Can
is old Gaelic for white ; but the latter part is doubtful.

The most important Lakes ark :
Loch Assynt, the largest in the parish.
Cam Loch, G. cam^ irregular.
Loch Vaftie, N. vatNy water.
Skinas/iifiky G. sg/a/Aa/iar/i, winged loch.
Urigill, N. Utri-gill, further gill.

Parish of Creich.

This parish, for thirty-five miles, forms the southern
boundary of Sutherland, hence the name (}. crkh^ boundary.
Norse names are not (juite so common here as on the coast,
but a few do occur, as Spinningdale, Swordale, Migdale, which
prove the occupancy of the district by the Norseman.

Migdale^ N. moist, dale, N. mokkr.

Swordale^ in old charter, Suardell^ N. sward, dale.

Achtemore, G. large field.

Rhiancoup, rhian and rian are fre(iuent in place-names.
The root meaning is reo^ to flow, hence a slope, declivity, or
running stream. Cop is G. foam, and copag (Scotch) docken.

Linnside, G. lion, flax, or N. //////, waterside.

Aihinduichy achadh, field, and davoch^ a measure of land.

Inveran, CJ. Inver, mouth of river.

Balblair, G Ifaile, town, blar, field.

Portnalicky G. port and leac, gen^ lie, rock.

Drimlea, G. druim, ridge. Hath, grey.

12 SlfTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTkV.

Limheroy, G. lub, bend, croy, an enclosure, horse-shoe.

Ospisdak, N. dale, and Osph, a proper name.

Ardens, CI. ard, high.

Riisshall, Glen Rossal, elc, Ci. roj, a peninsub.

Aiiass, G. (ik//, a stream, ihj may be a corruption of uis^.

Badfliuchy (!, wet place.

Pulnmit, G. poll, pool, r^j, isthmus, //, water.

Tulloeh, G. tultuh, a hillock.

Lanuhan, G. larach, habitation ; gorge.

Bmiar, G. .^' hhann-a. G. hun-atha, the foot of the ford.

Basset, N. boseitr, dwelling-place.

C<ij//f, River, G. CrtJ, swift, /r^A.-, flood.

I'ARrsH OK Lairg.

Lairg is an inland parish, about twenty miles from the
sea, and mountainous in character. There are a great many
remains of the ancient "dunes" in the district, which point to a
consideral)le population in olden times. Its place-names are
nearly all Celtic, as might have been expected. The Norse-
men did not care to make locations at any great distance
from the sea.

Lairg, G. Iftirg, a sloping ground, an eminence.

Ackadhphris, G. field of the bush, /^cuj, a shrub.

Baleharn, G. the township of the cairn.

Balindialish, G. diahiis, a weed, a kind of cabbage.

Culbuit, G. nil, a recess, or cotlle, wood, huie, yellow.

Balloan, (;. marshy town.ship, Ihn, a marsh.

The rhians are numerous (from rhi, slope), Rhianbreck,
Rhianmuir, Rhimarscaig, Rhinamain, Shinness, N. sunnan,
nos, southern point.

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 63

Torresboll and Collaboll are also Norse ; but the remain-
ing are clearly Gaelic, and present no difficulty to a Gaelic
scholar. Examples —Dalchork^ Tomich^ Suva/, etc.

Strath TirrVy G. tior^ dry, good soil.

River Shirty Shinness is said to be sunnan-nos, Norse
for southernmost point of Sutherland. Shin would thus
mean souths which is the direction taken by the river.

River Oykel. We meet with this river in the Saga as
Ekkia/, Ekkiaisbakki\ possibly, however, the Norsemen used
the Gaelic name. The root meaning, if Celtic, is high ;
the river has its source in Benmore, Assynt. W. achel^ ^^ig^j
cp. Ochill Hills.

Parish of Dornoch.

This parish is the most important in the county, from a
civil and ecclesiastical point of view. The town of Dornoch
is the only Royal Burgh in the county, being erected in 1628,
by a charter of Charles 1. It was formerly the seat of the
Bishops of Dornoch, whose Sec dates from the 12th century.
The parish, however is not a large one ; its extreme length
and breadh being fifteen and nine miles respectively.

A Celtic origin has been assigned to the name Dornoch,
dorn-eich, horse's hoof. There is a tradition to the effect that
a certain Earl cf Sutherland, about the middle of the 13th
century, signalised himself in battle against the Danes, armed
with the leg of a horse. The arms of the burgh, which con-
tain the horse shoe gives countenance to this derivation ; but
it must be given up. In old charters the form Durunach is
frequent. Dur or Dor from dodar, water, is common in
place-names ; // belongs to the article, ard, ach^ achadh, a
field. The fact that the parish is a kind of peninsula favours
the Celtic origin.

164 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

A new element enters into the topography of East Suther-
land — the Pictish or Brythonic. All along the north and west
coasts there is no trace of any dialect of Celtic, save the
Goidelic ; but it is clear the south-east formed part of Pict-
land. Here we meet with///, the Pictish equivalent of hailty
township ; also aber for inver^ river-mouth. Initial / enters
more frequently into place-names on the east coast, another
sign of Pictish occupation.

Pit/our^ Pictish,///, township, ox portion and Welsh /ai/r,
pasture. The Pictish language is more nearly allied to the
Welsh than to the Gaelic. There are two ProHcies^ an
upper and lower; initial/, suggests a Pictish origin. There is
a Welsh word, Pren^ meaning wood, which may be connected
with the root-meaning.

Achavandra^ G. Andrew's field. There was a Bishop
Andrew at Dornoch, who had his y?!c?r«/// about 1150 a.d.

Achosnich, G. achy oisneach ; cornered, field.

Astky N. ashy dale.

Balvraidy Cj. hailcy bhraigheady height.

CaatfiorCy G. catha^ a steep ascent, w/V, large.

ClasnagravCy G. dash^ hollow, nan craoibh^ of trees.

Clashmorty G. large hollow.

Emboy N. bo for boll^ township. The natives pronounce
it Eriboll in Gaelic, which comes from Norse eyrr^ pebbly-
beach, and bolly town.

Skeiboy N. shell-town.

Lednabiricheny G. slope of heights, bir is a point.

Fleucharey, G. JFlmch, wet ; air id h sheiling.

Rearquhar^ G. rhi^ declivity ; the last part may be a
proper name.

Sirathtolliey G. strath, and toli^ hole, a fissure.

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 65

TorboU, Norse or Gaelic ; torr. a heap, and baile ; or from
Norse boll^ township.

Pitgrud}\ Pit, place, and grudie, a common place-name
in all parts of Sutherland. Grudie is a river in Durness, a
a place-name in I^irg, N. ^a^jot, stones.

Parish of Golspie.

Golspie is a small parish, being only eight miles in length,
and six in breadth. Here is the residence of the Earls of
Sutherland, Dunrobin Castle. The ancient name of the
parish was Culmaily, but in 16 19 the church was transferred
to (lolspie.

The parish name is Norse, GiiPsbie, the township of the
glen. The glen of Golspie is the most striking feature in the
scener)^ ; and although /is not pronounced in Gaelic Goisbee,
that is a feature of the Sutherlandshire dialect ; / goes out
before s ; soillse becomes soise ; feallsa^feasa, etc.

BackieSy N. bakkt\ banks.

Badan, Ci. a small location. Halblair, G. Mir, plain.

Clayside, G. cladh, a raised fence, an enclosure ; the
name, however, may be a rubbed-down form of N. KUiff
settr, cliff hamlet.

Dnimmuie, G. drum, ridge, and ma\:^h, a plain.

Culmailie, G. r/7/, church, and Maluag, a Culdee saint.

Morvich, Of frecjuent occurrence in the Highlands. The
common feature is an extensive plain by the sea-side The
word is probably Fictish ; W. mor, sea. G. mor-achadh, large
field, has also been suggested.

RhiveSy an Englished form of Gaelic, rhidhe, a slope

Uppaty pronounced oopaid. N. ////, high place.

1 66 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Dunrobiriy G. Dttn^ a fort or mote ; and Robin is probably
a personal name ; who he was is by no means certain. Sir
Robert Gordon's Earl Robert is proved to be mythical, and
Gaelic phonetics forbid any connection with Rafu, a Norse
ruler of considerable influence in Caithness and Sutherland
in the 12th century.

Aberscross. This word shows the Brythonic or Pictish
element in aber^ for Gaelic river, river mouth. Its old spelling
varies from Aberschoir to Hibberscor and Abbirscross. The
natives pronounce it Aberscaig ; escaig is from uisge, water.

Ben^ Vr aggie ^ G. braigh, each, high lands. Some church
names are also met with here, as Loch-a' -vicar, vicar's loch,
Kirktown, church town, and Uamh-ghill-Aindreas, Gillander's
cave.

Salachie Burn, G. saiach, muddy.

Ben Horn, N. hill of the eagle, N. arn-r.

Loch Lundie, (j. /on, dubh, black morass.

FarralarriCy G. Fuar-iaraich, cold habitations.

Parish of Rogart.

This inland parish forms a square of about ten miles.
Norse names are few, and there is evidence of a Pictish
occupation. The parish name presents some difficulty. Its
Gaelic pronunciation is Raoird, which seems to point to a
Gaelic origin, Rhi-ard, high slope. But the early charters
give Roth-gorthe ; and both are well known in Highland
topography ; roth, a circle, and garth, cultivated land. Care,
however, must be taken not to confound the Gaelic gart with
Norse gardr, also meaning an enclosure (Eng. yard). When
gart\^ prefixed, as Gartymore, it is the Gaelic word; but when
it CO mes last as in Rogart, it should be Norse.

TOPOC.kAPHY. 167

Fleet, N. fljot, flooding ; fteetivater is water which over-
flows ground, in broad Scotch.

Rossaly G. ros, a promontory, and aii, rock.

Lan^well, N. lan^dal, has been suggested ; but as it is
not a dale name, so much as a district name, its root is
probably Norse, lyngy heather ; which agrees with the native
pronunciation Lan^aL

Blarich, G. M/r, plain ; the ich is an affix.

Miinafua, Vt.'meall-na-fuadh, hill of the spectre. Fiiadh
is common in place-names, altanna-fuadh in Durness

Davoch-be^:^, (y. davoch, a measure of land.

Eden, Ci. aodati, face.

Pitfure, Fictish ///, Gaelic haikphiiithair, W. paivr,
jxisture.

Rovie, Treasad\\ Toskary contain doubtful elements, but
the majority of Rogart names are easily explained with the
aid of a Gaelic dictionary. The following present no diffi-
culty : — Achcork (oat-field), Achadhnacaillich (nun's field),
Achinluachrach (rushy field), Achniiij^arroN (gelding's field),
Achooan (bothy field), Achvrail (high field), Balchla^^in
(skull place), Blairmore (large marshy field), CuldraiH
(bramble- wood), Druifnanairij^eid (silver ridge), Dalrevoch
(spotted dale), ///r^^/z/wr (meeting field), ///r/zf^n//^*^ (shamrock
field) Kinnauid {hnrn head), Let fie (half-side), Mttie (plain),
Morness (large i)lain), Rhelin (running stream), Rhemnsai^
(primrose slope), Rhicalmie (Colum's slope), Shenval (old
town), She ft /one (old meadow), Skia^^ (winged), Tulloch
(eminence).

There are some place-names here which have been
explained before, as Grudie (N. i^f'jot, stony), Gntmbk,
Dainessie, etc.

1 68 sutherland and the reay country.

Parish of Clyne.

The low-lying grounds of this parish along the coast, which
are extensive and well-cultivated, gave name to the district.
Clyne comes from (i. cluain^ a meadow, and the oldest
written form is Clun in Bishop Gilbert's MS. Brora, the
principal village, is in a fair way of supplanting the old name.
It is of Norse origin, probably, and means bridge. There is
also another Norse term brii, ridge, which occurs in Lewis
Brue ; and Brora may be from Bru — shrath, which agrees
with the Gaelic pronunciation. Coal was worked at this
place for three centuries. Lady Jane Gordon, Countess of
Sutherland, interesting herself in the matter as early as 1573.
The Norse names are comparatively few ; and the Pictish or
Brythonic element disappears. The following are easily
recognisable in Gaelic : Ardochie (high field), Aulicraggie
(rocky burn), Baduellan (island clump), Cavaig (variant of
camhan, (a hollow plain) Ciyne/ish {ciuain-iios, meadow-
garden), Dalchahn (Colum's dale), Doll (dale), Brechin
(breac-achadh, spotted field), Kilcolmkil (Columba's cell),
Fascoille (in old maps Ascoil, now Faskally), coille is wood ;
the first part doubtful ; it may mean the near wood, the
sheltered wood, or wood on the hill, from old Gaelic ais, hill.
Gordonbush is modern English, and the Norse element
appears in the latter parts of Achrimsdale, and Strathskinsdale.
The parish terminates in the interior of the county in Ben
Armin- -often Ormin in the maps, for which there is no
authority. Armunn is Gaelic for a hero ; it is about 2500
feet high. At Kilcalmkill, there is an ancient cemetery which,
with the name, marks it as an ecclesiastical residence ; another
cell, or church, is preserved in Killean (John's cell). On the

TOPOGRAPHY. I 69

south side of Loch Brora is Craig Bar, a saint to whom the
church at Dornoch was first dedicated. Kilcalmkil belonged
for 300 years to the (iordon branch of the Sutherland family,
the (Jordons of Carrol, from obsolete (Gaelic ail^ a rock, and
carr^ stone. The Caelic for a (juarry-face is caoireall. A
very good specimen of the Pictish tower is in this parish,
situated on the Black- Water. It is called Castle Cole ; and
part of the walls is still standing, 1 1 feet thick. It was
doubtless the residence of a Celtic maormor^ and subsecjuently
of a Norse chieftain ; and the line of watch-towers to the
coast may still be traced.

Parish of Loth.

This place-name is of doubtful origin. Ptolemy, a (Ireek
writer, who flourished in the last (juarter of the second century,
places the Lo^^i in south-east Sutherland, and some connect
Loth with this tribal name. Others, again, look upon it as a
rubbed down form of loch^ a lake. Within historical times,
a large part of the low-lying grounds of the parish was under
water, until about the beginning of the 17th century. A
direct course was cut out of the solid rock, for the river of
(lien Loth, and the bed of the lakes was turned into rich
arable land. The (iaelic pronunciation is Lo.

Kintradivell^ Caelic Ceann-Tro/hi is from Trollhcna^
otherwise Triduana^ a female saint, whose memory is pre-
served also in Orkney.

Culgmver, G. goat's wood, or goat's recess, r///, nook.

Crakni^ (occurs also in Strathnaver), O. craic ViX\i\ croic^
means deer's horns ; thus anything extensive or branching,
as the hand.

LANCiUAGE.
By Rev. Adam Gunn, M.A.

The natives of Sutherland and the Reay Country are bi-
lingual. English is spoken very well all over the county ;
and strangers give us credit for a more pleasing accent than
our Teutonic neighbours in Caithness. A Sutherlandshire
youth finds less difficulty in adapting his tongue to English
sounds than his cousins of Wester Ross and Lewis ; while
the natives of Sutherland proper are not prepared to yield
the palm, even to Inverness, in the purity of their English
diction.

So much, however, cannot be advanced in behalf of our
Gaelic. It is by no means so pure as our geographical
position might lead one to suppose. Every year sees the
foreign element in it on the increase, and the area in which
it is habitually spoken becoming more and more limited.
Assynt alone can claim to hold its own in regard to purity :
and even there, corruption has set in. Such a greeting as
"Tha'n latha beautiful,^' is common all over the Highlands ;
and various rea.sons may be assigned for the greater amount
of foreign material in the dialect of Sutherland.

(i) The Norse occupation, from 900 — 1200, is account-
able for a good deal of this foreign element. Of course
all the Gaelic-speaking area of Scotland, with the exception
of Perthshire, and the heights of Inverness, came more or

LANGUAGE. 1 73

less under this influence ; but a deeper impression has been
made upon Sutherland by them, than upon any other
Highland county. The topographical record makes it very
manifest that the whole county was over-run by them ; and
weight of numbers alone prevented Sutherland from being
an P^nglish-speaking county like its neighbour, Caithness.
As it is, the Norse influence is very marked in the dialect, and
quite a host of words, in every day use as Oaelic, owe
their introduction to the Norse occupation.

(2) The near proximity of Caithness, where the Scandin-
avian came to stay, explains in some measure, the number of
Teutonic words in use in our dialect. This is more evident
on the east and north coasts, where the intercourse between
Teuton and Celt was close and continuous. It is true that
hostile feelings between the two races existed until recent
times ; but the i)roximity was bound to tell on the purity of
the Gaelic speech.

(3) Two more recent causes may also be mentioned as
contributing to this result. The army was the natural
destination of Sutherland youths in the good old times ; and
every encouragement was given ta enlist in one or other of
the Highland Regiments, the Reay Fencibles, and latterly
in the 93rd Sutherland Highlanders. After long service,
and mixing with English speaking peoples, these men found
their way back to their native glens, and brought with them
a knowledge of English. In this way, such words as " Kiss-
eag " {or phg (kiss) and comrad {rom comrade, which are now
looked upon as pure Caelic, came into use. The economic
changes which took place in the early years of this century
also had some share in this detereorating process. I^irge
tracts of land were placed under the management of English

174 SUTHERLAND AND THE RKAY COUNTRY.

sp>eaking farmers, who brought their shepherds from the
borders ; so that in the very heart of Sutherlaiidshire, where
a hundred years ago not a word of English was spoken, there
is to-day a congregation of worshippers so entirely English,
that the native language is but rarely used in the pulpit.

There are two main dialects of Scottish (Gaelic, a north-
ern and a southern ; and it used to be matter of keen
debate in Celtic Societies — where was the best Gaelic
spoken, at Inverness or Inveraray. Probably no solution
satisfactory to both parties was ever offered to this problem.
But from a variety of causes, which need not be enumerated
here, Argyleshire, or the southern dialect, came to be
recognised as a sort of standard to which the literary efforts
of northern authors must conform when they venture into
print. In this way, there is no good specimen of the
northern dialect to be seen in print; and the labours of such
poets as Rob Donn suffer immensely from a well-meaning
desire on the part of editors and publishers to conform his
dialect to a supposed literary standard. The dialect of the
Reay Country bard was far too pronounced to admit of this
accommodating process ; and the consequence is that his
songs have lost in print a great deal of the smoothness and
rhythm which they possess in their native garb. It is too
late in the day to alter matters now, for the rendering of the
Bible into the southern dialect has stereot)'ped the standard,
and Argyllshire peculiarities must be borne with, notwith-
standing the fact that a considerable portion of them is not
of native, but of Irish origin. As a set off to this hardship,
the north countryman has the advantage of knowing the
southern dialect in print ; he has, therefore, no difficulty in
understanding the southern ; while a native of Argyll will

LANGUAGK. I75

find it next to impossible to follow with intelligence the
conversation of north countrymen.

There are three test sounds by means of which we
classify Gaelic dialects into northern and southern — one
main and two subordinate, (i) The main peculiarity of the
northern district is a change of en into ia ; thus to//, ceud,
hreu^^ meudy deuf^^ feur of the south becomes hial^ dad, miad^
dia^y fiar of the northern counties. It should be observed,
however, that, to begin with, this eu is long by compensation ;
ceud compensates for a lost n by lengthening the vowel
(compare I^t. centum). This divergence does not take
place in the case of eu when it is not arrived at by compen-
sation ; it stands eu in the north and south, and is
pronounced similarly, except perhaps in half-a-dozen mono-
syllables, which have become ia in the north by the force
of analogy. (2) The northern dialect dislikes a long vowel,
preferring the use of the dipthongs. Thus, Argyllshire
tram, heavy, becomes Sutherland troum. Professor Rhys
calls this habit diphthon^^^isatiim, and thinks it is due to a
more musical ear. (3) The diphthong ao is opener in the
south ; the sao^hal of Argyllshire is quite different from the
attenuated semi of the north. By one or other of these
test-sounds, the question of a Highlander's residence on
either side the (kampians is easily settled.

Sutherlandshire Gaelic belongs of course to the northern
dialect. But with regard to the main test, eu into ia, the
Reay country proves an exception. It agrees rather with
the south, or more properly speaking, introduces a new-
diphthong. Thus, eu, which ought to become ia, becomes
ea ; and the following scheme shows how we stand com-
paratively : —

176 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

SOUTH, OR LITERARY.

NORTH.

REAY COUNTRY.

held

bial

heal

sgeid
neul

sgial
ttial

sgeal
neal

I. In words where the dipthong is not flanked by /, as
the above examples, we follow the southern dialect : breug,

feur^ nteud, is pronounced in Sutherland exactly as in Argyle,
with the exception of Assynt and the south-east.

II. Another peculiarity of our dialect is our partiality for
the broad a. Southern o becomes a in numberless instances.
Of course it must be remembered that appears in print often
in deference to Irish orthography, where it is never used,
even in Argyle ; thus, focal, cos^ is nowhere on Scottish soil
so pronounced ; they ^xg: fatal, cas. Sutherlandshire Gaelic,
however, changes southern o into a in the great majority of
instances :

SOUTH.

SUTHERLAND.

lorg ...

larg

foot-print.

bolg

balg

bag.

solus

salas

light.

dorus . . .

daras

door.

But in a few cases we refuse to accept southern a, and change
it into o^falt, bainne, trasgadhy becomey^^//, boinne, trosgadh.

III. The most marked peculiarity of Sutherland Gaelic
is, perhaps, its fondness for the // sound. We make all our
participles {adh, amh) end in u ; bagradh, deanamh, becomes
bagru, dean-u) dot, obair^ do m hail, drola, lobar, are pronounced
as dul, ubair, dumhail, drula, lubar.

IV. When we cease to compare ourselves with the south,
we find three well-defined sub-dialects in Sutherland :

LANGUAGE. 1 77

1. The dialect of Sutherland proper Cataobh,

2. The Reay country dialect — Duthaich-icaoidh.

3. The Assynt dialect.

These are the main sub-dialects ; but a keen ear may
easily distinguish differences in tone between natives of
different parts of the same {xirish. The *' twang " of a Port-
skerra man is quite different from that of Melvich, which is
not half-a-mile distant.

("omparing these three sub-dialects then, it will be granted
that the language of the people of Machair-Chat, as the low-
lying east coast of Sutherland is called, is less pure than that
of the Reay Country ; and the dialect of the latter is less
[)ure than that of Assynt. We may excejH one or two fishing
communities from this comparison ; for example, Embo, and
Brora, whose natives can express themselves in fairly good
idiomatic Ciaelic. The language of Assynt or " jia lamhan
shuas " as it is distinguished from the North and East, has
preserved a good deal of its pristine purity. They are easily
distinguished by a tendency to eclipsis ; and resemble I^wis
in this respect. An duine, the man, is pronounced an nuine^
71 of the article eclipsing d. As already mentioned, they
conform to the Northern dialect in the case of the ia sound,
and thus differ from the Reay Country : and on the whole,'
their command of the language is greater, both as regards
vocabulary, idioms, and inflections.

Fhe North coast or Reay (Country man is easily distin-
guished by his preference for the broad a. To such an
extent has he carried this tendency that in some districts sin
is pronounced san ; teine^ teana. \Ve shall by and bye account
for this preference of « by a greater mixture of Norse blood
in his veins —the element which evolved into broad Scotch

1 78 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

in the English speaking counties of the north. Another
peculiarity of this district is the number of words which have
taken on permanently the prosthetic f. Eagal^ acain,
rabhadhy easgain, etc., become feagal, fraghaidh, feasgainn.
Even aifhne, command, is sometimes yii/M//^, although there
is danger of confounding it \\\ih fainne^ a ring. The reason
of so much confusion in our dialects regarding initial/ is,
that it disappears when aspirated ; it is not sounded in
oblique cases ; thus fear is in gen. sing, fhir, where fh is
silent. Consequently, as it disappears in oblique cases, it
was also dropp>ed in the nom. in many instances.

Inflections, or case endings, may be said to be disregard-
ed. The old people, it is true, speak of ceann na circe ; but
the rising generation are quite satisfied with ceann na cearc,
" Tha e tional na caorich " is oftener heard than the gram-
matically correct "M« e tional nan caorach^ A Reay
Countryman has little regard for case-endings, with the
exception of the dative plural idA, which he has converted
into u,

A very striking feature of the dialect of Sutherland is the
extent to which it is permeated by foreign material. We
have mentioned some of the causes that led to this, and
ascribed a double share to the influence of the Norwegian
stranger in our midst.

The influence of Norse on Scottish Gaelic is recognised
on all hands. Both north and south have borrowed from
it a good many terms connected with the sea. The Celts
were not experts in navigation when the Vikings a:|)peared
upon the scene. It is not likely that they had advanced
much beyond t/u coracle of St. Columba. Here, then, was
quite a new vocabulary to them ; and we find that they made

LANGUAOR. 1 79

good use of their opportunities ; they borrowed freely such
terms as bata^ boat, barc^ bark, seol^ sail, sgiob^ crew, and the
names for the different parts of a ship. Again, through the
influence of Norse, the letter / has slipped in between srva
strath^ stron, strann^ straid. This much is admitted as
Norse influence on the southern and northern dialects.
But when we come to the far north, it will be found that the
Scandinavian has left deeper footprints behind him. This
is true not only of Sutherland, but also of Lewis. The
writer recently saw a list of provincial words collected by a
student, a native of I^wis, in the district of Ness and
neighbourhood — words which do not appear in any Gaelic
Dictionary, but most of which could be explained with the
help of Cleasby's " Icelandic Dictionary," and are undoubt-
edly remnants of the Norse occupation. The same is true
of north Sutherland. The effects of the Norwegian occupa-
tion may be classified as follows :

1. The preference for the broad a sound already referred
to, so characteristic of the north coast. The English of
Caithness is very broad, and is due to the same influence.

2. The habit of giving their Teutonic value to the letters
r, d^ r. The deep guttural chd sound of c in mac^ is quite
unknown in Sutherland. Again, bard is pronounced exactly
as in English ; whereas in the south d has a broader sound,
by flattening the tongue between the teeth and roof of the
mouth.

3. A very large number of loan-words, which we are
unjustly accused of borrowing from modern English, but
which we have really borrowed from Norse ; examples are,
susdan^ thousand, N. thusund ; preisteadh^ preaching, N.
priestr ; U)rn for cuis^ deiiig (dealing), bocaidh^ hobgoblin.

l8o SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

N. bokkU harnaigeadh (inviting to a feast), etc. These and
a host like them have been in use in Sutherland long before
modern English had any influence upon the language of the
people.

4. What may be called the vituperative vocabulary is
decidedly Norse. Uilbh is one of the most opprobrious
terms in use, and comes from Norse tilf^ a wolf. Slaucar is
another, for an "awkward fellow," and s^ammai, all of
which may be found in Norse. This points to a period in
our history when the Norse lorded it over the Celtic bondi^
and applied to him such epithets in his wrath. They were
carefully picked up, and being new, were preserved to the
present day.

5. The nomenclature of peat-cutting is also Norse.
One of the Earls of Caithness was called Torf-Einar, turf-
cutter, being the first, no doubt, to point out the use of peats
as a substitute for wood. Thus bac (N. bakki), bank, storage
bassag, torra-sgian (its first half) are all Norse.

(6) A few agricultural terms may also be mentioned, and
words connected therewith. When a Sutherland herd calls
a bull, he says ^^ iuadhi^ timdhi" The Icelandic for a bull
is tuddiy the usual changes being made on the loan-word, viz.,
diphthongisation and aspiration. The dairymaid's call is
huskus, huskus ; in Iceland it is kusktis, kushis (root seen
in Scotch qu-ey). The borrowing was not all on one side.
The Norsemen who left Scotland on the fall of the Norweg-
ian power at Largs, and went to Iceland, brought with them
some Gaelic words, such as caiman, a dove, and tarf^ a bull.
In driving away cattle by the dog a Reay Country herd makes
use of a vocable which phonetically spells trrrhu This is
the word for driving off cattle in Iceland to the present day.

LAM'.UAGK. l8l

7. The last class we shall mention is the names for the
different kinds of fish. A good many are Norse. Lang^
ling, cili\:^, cod (N. Keila), geddag, grilse, etc. There is a
(.'eltic word for cod, viz., trosg^ in Assynt and the south ;
but the Reay Countryman uses Irosg only as applied to an
awkward fellow,

I'he following words are more or less peculiar to the
( ounty :

Lopan^ a soft muddy place.

/, or uidh^ a small stream with green patches on either
side. It enters very largely into place-names, and is almost
as common as

Rhidhe, or rhidhean^ a sloping declivity with a burn at
bottom. We have an innumerable number of place-names
beginning with Rhi.

Riasgan, green patches on a hill-side : hence the place-
name Riasg.

Rabhan^ remains of a full tide on the sea shore or banks of
a river.

Uar^ a tempest, a waterspout, confluence of waters.

BaghtJti, ch urch yard.

Afol/dair, the miller's share : bunndaist^ the weaver's
share.

Bruthas^ broth ; roftiag Athole brose ; a^ bhuaicneach
is for small-pox ; na cnuimhean^ for toothache ; an tsiatag^
for rheumatism ; trom-al/an, a cold ; an cncatan^ and
trollaidh in some parts.

Foit, an expression used when one is suddenly burnt.
It is an old term, occurring on the margin of one of the
Oospels in a Continental monastery as ^\)it mo chrob ;'' we
have preserved it with prosthetic yi Probably this writer of

l82

SUTHERI.ANH ANH THE KKAV COUNTRY

the middle ages hailed from Ireland or Scotland, and had
burnt his finger in snuffing the candle !

Troll, pronounced troull, awkward fellow Norse, troll,
hence Tralt^ll. Norse, Troll's gill.

THE REGIMENTS.
By John Mackay (Ben Reay).

The military history of the Highlands, until a comparatively
recent date, may be summed up as consisting of a series of
clan feuds, attacks and reprisals. There were many warriors
and fighting men, but bands of disciplined and trained
soldiers, according to modern ideas, were unknown. Men
were taught how to handle the sword, the battle-axe, and the
bow, and in later times, the musket. The chief, or territorial
magnate, who had many dependents, gave orders for the men
on his estates to gather, and they obeyed : it may have been to
engage in a foray against a hostile clan, and carry off spoil, or
to make a raid on the territory of some leader against whom
the chief had a grudge, or for the more deadly purposes of
revenge. Our section of country was probably neither better
nor worse in this respect than other districts. Tradition tells
us of conflicts with the Danes and other invaders ; and later,
that Highland chiefs with their followers fought under Bruce
at Bannockburn, in the memorable battle which secured to
Scotland her independence ; and also, that during the two
succeeding centuries they frequently assisted the Scottish
kings in their wars against England.

In treating of the Regiments of Sutherland and the Reay
Country, 1 shall not attempt to give any account of the armed
bands which rival chiefs brought into the field, when clan
disputes had to be settled by the sword ; for although clan
fights were often contests between large numbers of armed
men, and showed a considerable display of military skill and

184 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Strategy, the combatants could hardly be called soldiers.
Clan feuds belong to the historical section of this volume.

The history of the regiments is of great interest, not only
from the number of corps which were raised in the two
districts, but also from the character of the men who composed
them. It is also unique, inasmuch as the earliest printed
military record in Great Britain is a narrative of the services
of a regiment which was raised by the Chief of the Mackays,
exactly two hundred and seventy years ago, and which served
with great distinction in the terrible struggle known in history
as "the thirty years* war." The exploits of the regiment were
recorded by one of its officers in a volume which was pub-
lished in London in 1637, under the title of "Monro : his
Expedition with the Worthy Scots Regiment (called MacKeyes
Regiment), levied in August, 1626, by Sir Donald MacKey,"
&c. &c.*

In 1631 the Marquis of Hamilton was authorised to raise
a regiment of Scots soldiers for service in Germany, and

* But this was not the first regiment raised in the north of
Scotland for service abroad. In the year 161 2, Colonel Georjje
Sinclair, nephew of the Earl of Caithness, raised a body of men in
his native county to assist the King of Sweden in his wars. His
ships were driven ashore at Romsdal, in Norway, and he tried to
make his way across the mountain to Sweden with his men. The
people seem to have looked upon them as enemies, for they attacked
the Scots when in a narrow gorge, by hurling large stones down
upon them, killing the greater part, for only a few escaped. Colonel
Sinclair was one of the first who fell. On a tablet erected at the
place are words to this effect, ** Here lies Colonel George Sinclair,
who with 900 Scotsmen, were dashed to pieces like so many earthen
pots by the peasants of Lessoe Vaage and Forsa. Berdon Sallatad
of Ringeboe was their leader." The episode forms the subject of a
Norwegian ballad, entitled The Afassacre of Kringelen,

THK RKC.IMENTS. 1 85

requested the Earl of Sutherland to assist him in recruiting.
In response to this appeal, Adam Gordon, the Earl's brother,
offered to go, and to take " with him a number of resolute
soldiers to serve the King of Sweden.'* 1 have not been able,
however, to find any record of the services of this company
of men from Sutherland.

In 1642 the Earl of Sutherland and Lord Reay raised
a small force — about 200 men — to assist in quelling a
rebellion in Ireland. The division of the Royal Army to
which they were attached was commanded by General
Robert Munro, w^ho had been Colonel of the Mackay
regiment when it was in the service of the King of Sweden ;
and it is highly probable that a portion of these men were
tried soldiers, who, ten years previously, had fought in
Germany under *' The Lion of the North." 1 do not know
of any special service in which they were engaged while
in Ireland.

But unrest was thickening over the Kingdom, and
troubles began between those who had subscribed the
Covenant, and the adherents of the King. These troubles
ultimately ended in the execution of King Charles the First,
and the establishment of the Protectorate under Cromwell.
All over the kingdom parties were divided, some remained
true to the cause of royalty, while others declared for the
Covenant and Cromwell. Among those who favoured the
cause of the Covenant was the Earl of Sutherland, but
Lord Reay remained loyal to the King. In 1645, the Earl
called out 800 of his men to oppose Montrose, and sent
them south to Inverness. This regiment was reported to
have been raised at his own cost, but this does not appear
to be correct, for in response to a petition which he pre-

l86 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

sented to the Estates, a warrant was granted to him to
receive 800 suits of clothes and 800 pairs of shoes for his
men, and 1600 dollars for his own charges.

In 1649, shortly after the execution of the King, John
Lord Reay joined the Earls of Ogilvie and Seaforth with
"300 able men well provided with arms and necessaries"
for the army which was being raised in support of Charles
II., but the combined force, which amounted to not more
than 900 men, was attacked at Balvainey by General
Leslie's troops, and after an engagement in which they had
80 men killed and many wounded, the greater part of them
were taken prisoners. The men were allowed to return to
their homes, but the leaders were taken to Edinburgh as
prisoners. Lord Reay was kept in prison about a year and
a half. The romantic way in which his escape was effected
by Lady Reay and a servant, is told in the Clan History

P- 349-350-

In 1650 the Earl of Sutherland raised a regiment of

about 1000 men, for the purpose of opposing Cromwell, and
marched with them as far as Stirling. But the decisive
victory gained by Cromwell at Dunbar put an end to the
struggle, and peace was secured for a time. The Common-
wealth was established, and Cromwell became ruler of the
country.

For nearly forty years, that is, during the Commonwealth,
the Restoration, and up to the abdication of James VII.,
neither the Earl of Sutherland nor Lord Reay took any
active part in public affairs ; but the troubles which had
been gathering came to a head in 1688.

The advent of the Prince of Orange changed the aspect
of affairs. The persecutions and cruelties which had been

THK REGIMENTS. 187

sanctioned by King James had completely alienated the
affections of many of the best families who had formerly
been devoted to his cause ; and in the north, the families of
Sutherland, Mackay, and Munro, being staunch Protestants,
were among the first in Scotland to attach themselves to the
cause of the Prince of Orange. The events which quickly
followed, viz : the abdication of the King, and the trans-
ference of the Crown to the Prince and Princess of Orange, as
King William and Queen Mary, are too well known to be
repeated.

When the Prince of Orange landed in England he had
with him an army of about 14,000 men. The English and
Scottish divisions were under the command of General Hugh
Mackay of Scourie, who had for many years held a high
command in the service of the Netherlands. He was
appointed Commander in Chief in Scotland, but King
William was so pressed for troops, that the only men he
could spare for Scotland were detachments from the three
regiments which formed the Scottish Brigade, and did not
number more than 1,100 men. But the General immed-
iately took steps to get what additional assistance he could
from those noblemen and others who were favourable to
the new dynasty. One of his earliest acts was to call upon
the guardians of his kinsman, the youthful Lord Reay (the
young Peer was only a boy) to "send without delay 200
chosen men, under two principal gentlemen of the clan," to
assist him in his campaign against the forces of King James.

These were at once sent; then he called for "other 200
well armed men,*' which he likewise speedily got. At the

same time he sent instructions to Lord Strathnaver (the

Earl of Sutherland's son) to levy, with all speed, the regiment

THK RKGIMKNTS. 1 89

for which he had received a commission, and " to arm as
many of the men as he could with such arms as usually
Highlanders make use of." Lord Strathnaver accompanied
his men to Inverness, where ** 300 firelocks, with the
necessary powder, match, and hall,'' were ordered to be
delivered to him.

The two Reay Country contingents were commanded by
Captain William Mackay of Kinloch, and Captain Hugh
Mackay of Borley. Lord Strathnaver's men were quartered in
Invernessand Elgin, the Mackays in Inverness and Perthshire,
(ieneral Mackay wrote at this time "The Highlanders arc
absolutely the best untrained men in Scotland, and arc
equal to our new levies, though they are better armed than
the Highlanders are."

The country was now plunged into civil war; and the issue
to be decided was whether Scotland should remain under
the yoke of the Stuarts, or obtain the freedom the people
expected to enjoy under the government of the Prince of
Orange.

King James's army, commanded by Dundee, and that of
King William, commanded by Mackay, were soon to bring
the (juestion to a settlement, although the two commanders
had not yet brought their forces face to face. Several minor
engagements, however, between portions of the two armies
had already taken place. For example, not far from Castle
(kant, on the 1st May, a s(juadron of dragoons under the
command of Colonel Livingstone, accompanied by about 200
Mackays, saw the enemy en( amped on the other side of the
Spey. Livingstone ordered his men to ford the stream. The
Highlanders crossed first, followed by the dragoons, who put
their horses to the spur, whereupon the Mackays outran the

190 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

horse, and got first at the enemy. After a short engagement
the latter were put to flight, and being pursued, had several
of their number killed and wounded, and many were taken
prisoners.

The battle of Killiecrankie was fought on the 27th July,
1689. The victory remained with King James's army, but
Dundee having been mortally wounded, the advantage was
not followed up. Some of King William's troops, as General
Mackay stated in a letter to the Duke of Hamilton, when
giving an account of the battle to that nobleman, " behaved
like the vilest cowards." Mackay's own regiment,* commanded
by his brother James (who was killed in the battle), was almost
the only one in his army that showed any gallantry on this
occasion, for most of the other regiments got into confusion
and took to flight as soon as Dundee's Highlanders rushed
at them, claymores in hand. But though the victory was
with the army which Dundee had commanded, the advantage
was with Mackay, for by the measures he took, the forces of
the dethroned King, after a few months, were entirely broken
up, and the new government was established. A period of
peace at home now followed the recent troubles, and quietness
prevailed in the Highlands.

Neither the Sutherland nor the Reay men appear to have
been engaged in the battle of Killiecrankie ; and shortly after
that event most of them returned to their homes ; but one
company of the Reays, under Captain Hugh Mackay of
Borley, was left as a garrison in Ruthven Castle, where they
did duty for several months.

• Afterwards incorporated in the British Army as the 21st or
Royal North British Fusiliers, now the Royal Scots Fusiliers.

THE REGIMENTS. 191

But although the new dynasty seemed to be firmly
established, many families in England and Scotland had a
longing for the restoration of the exiled Stuarts, and the
accession of the first of the Hanoverian family (George I.)
to the Throne, in 17 14, was made the excuse for a Jacobite
rising. In Scotland this attempt to involve the country in
civil war was headed by the Earl of Mar, and some other
adherents of the late King James. They had his son pro-
claimed as King James VIII., and the chiefs of many of the
western clans, with their followers flocked to the standard of
rebellion.

The Earl of Sutherland, who was in the south when the
rebellion broke out, hastened home as soon as it became
known, having first arranged that a ship with arms and
ammunition should be immediately despatched for the use
of himself. Lord Reay, and others. But the rebels managed
to seize the vessel, while she lay in Leith roads, and appro-
priated the stores. On reaching Dunrobin, the Earl, assisted
by Ix)rd Reay and Ross of Balnagowan, mustered a large
number of men and marched towards Inverness. Lord
Strathnaver, who held the rank of colonel, led the centre,
and Lord Reay and the Karl of Sutherland, the right and
left wings. A detachment of rebels, led by the Earl of Sea-
forth, had taken possession of the Highland capital, but
leaving a strong party to guard the town, Seaforth hastened
south to join the Earl of Mar. On the 13th NovemlxT, 17 15,
the battle of SherifTmuir was fought. It was a drawn battle ;
but it really ended the rebellion, for the Jacobite leaders
could not again bring their men together.

After the battle, news reached the rebels that Inverness
had been beset and taken by some of the loyal clans of the

192 SUTHKKLANn AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

north. The force which had accomplished this consisted of
about 300 men each of Mackays, Munros, Frasers, Forbeses,
and Rosses.

The Sutherland and Reay men did not engage in active
hostilities with any of the Jacobite forces, but were quartered
in Inverness, and remained there for some time after the
rebellion had been put down.

The government now took into consideration the desira-
bility of arming a number of loyal Highlanders, and admitting
them to the service of the Crown ; but it was not till 1729
that they resolved to embody such a corps as part of the
regular military force of the kingdom. Six Independent
Companies of Highlanders were accordingly embodied — three
of 100 men each, and three of 75 men each. The command-
ing officers of the larger companies were commissioned as
captains, while those of the smaller companies got commissions
as captain-lieutenants, and each company had in addition two
lieutenants and one ensign. One of the small companies was
commanded by (ieorge Munro, of Culcairn, and as the
services of the companies were confined to the territories in
which they had been raised, Munro's company did duty in
Sutherland and Ross. The services of these companies
during a period of nine years were so highly satisfactory to
the Government, that in 1739 it was resolved to raise four
additional companies, and incorporate the whole into a
regiment of the line. In this way the famous corps, after-
wards known as the 42nd Regiment, was established.

When the Independent Companies were raised, each
company was dressed in the tartan of its commanding
officer, and as these tartans were all dark coloured, the
companies were known as An Freiceadan Dubh — the Black

THE REGIMKNTS. I93

Watch, to distinguish them from the regular troops, who,
from the prevailing colour of their uniforms were known as
Saighdearan Dear^ — the Red Soldiers. But when the new
regiment was formed, a special tartan was designed for it,
and this pattern has ever since been known as the " Forty
Second." The designation Atn Freiceadan Dubh (at first
given to the Independent Companies as a nick-name), was
transferred to the 42nd ; and at the present day this regiment
is officially known as *' The Black Watch.'* But its history
does not form a part of our volume, and I have merely
mentioned the regiment because one of the Independent
Companies was connected with our county.

In the Spring of 1745 the Earl of Loudon was authorised
by the government to raise a regiment in the Highlands.
He consulted with several of the chiefs and leading men of
the north, and through their influence recruits came in so
freely that in a short time about 1200 men were enrolled;
these were formed into a battalion of 12 companies, and
designated Loudon's Highlanders. Sutherland and the
Reay Country contributed their quota, and as representing
these districts the Hon. Alexander Mackay, son of Lord
Reay, and John Sutherland, of Forse, were appointed
captains. When the rebellion broke out the regiment,
before it had been drilled, was called to the field ; but this
deficiency was of comparatively little importance, as the
habits of the people made the change from ordinary to
military life easy. At the battle of Prestonpans three of the
companies — ** every man and officer" — were taken prisoners
by the rebels ! The regiment was disbanded at Perth in 1 748.

The Earl of Sutherland, desirous of assisting the Govern-
ment at the time of the rebellion, raised and equipped a

194 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

regiment of militia for the defence of the county. One of

the captains of this regiment was George Mackay, younger of

Melness. On the 25th March, 1746, an incident occurred

in which he took the leading part, which is worth recording.

A large sum of money had been shipped in France for

Prince Charles, on board a sloop of war called the Hazard,

This vessel was discovered by the government man of war

Sheerness^ and chased from the Moray Frith, along the coast

to the Kyle of Tongue. The captain of the Hazard, finding

that he could not escape from the man of war. ran his vessel

agrouod on the sands below Melness, where the larger vessel

could not follow. The money, which was in boxes, was

safely landed, and the crew hoped to be able to march with

their treasure to Inverness. They expected, also, that the

country people would befriend them. But Captain Mackay,

when he learned what had taken place, got together some

other officers of the militia regiment and about 80 men, and

attacked those who had landed from the Hazard, After a

sharp engagement in which five of the Hazard^s men were

killed, and several wounded, Captain Mackay's company

took the remainder — 156 in number, mostly Frenchmen —

prisoners, and secured also the money, amounting to upwards

of jQi 2,000. The treasure was taken possession of by Lord

Reay, and sent south by him in the man of war Sheerness,

as were also the prisoners. The Hazard, at the same lime,

was taken south as a prize. [See Gentleman' s Magazine for

May, 1746; and narrative by Colonel Ker, in Lyon in

Mourning, vol. I., p. 358, published by "Scottish History

Society," 1895].

I do not find that either Lord Reay or Captain Mackay
received any acknowledgment — not even an expressio n of

THE REGIMKNTS. I95

thanks from the government — for this valuable service. The
account of this affair, given in Robert Mackay's Clan History,
is entirely misleading.

The battle of Culloden which was fought about three
weeks afterwards (on i6th April, 1746), put an end to any
chance of the Stuarts being again placed on the throne.

I have given this short historical sketch because during
the transition period, to some of the leading events of which
I have made reference, many companies of fighting men
were raised in the County of Sutherland. The Earls of
Sutherland, the Lords Reay, and several others were true
patriots^ and when called upon by Government promptly
equipped their followers in its support. I regret, however,
that we have no reliable information as to the numbers,
exact organization and special services of these companies.
But during the second half of the last century several
regiments for temporary service were raised in the county,
and of these we have some trustworthy particulars — I refer
to the militia or fencible regiments. There is also one
regiment of the line, the 93rd (now known as the 2nd
battalion Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders), identified
with the county. The rank and file of this regiment when
embodied consisted almost entirely of men belonging to
Sutherlandshire, and showed a body of soldiers second to
none in our military annals for bravery, good conduct, and
morality.

A Sutherland local militia regiment was raised in 1808,
but I have not been able to ascertain its strength, as there is
no muster roll either at the War Office, or the Record
Office, London. In the Record Office, however, there is a
list of officers — 24 in number — with the dates of their

196 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

commissions ; and if we take the same proportion of men to
officers that we find in the fencibles, this militia regiment
must have had a strength of about 600 men. Earl Gower
was Colonel; Alexander Sutherland, Lieutenant-Colonel;
Dugald Gilchrist, Major; and Kenneth Mackay, Senior
Captain.

The regiment known from 1803 to i860 as The RosSj
Sutherland and Caithness Militia^ and from i860 to 1881 as
The Highland Rifle Militia, had a company (the D company)
composed of men from Sutherland, and officered by gentle-
men connected with the county. On the introduction of the
** territorial system " into the British army on the ist July,
1 88 1, the title of this regiment was changed to the jrd
battalion Seaforth Highlanders, and there are now few
Sutherlandshire men in its ranks — the number at present
[1896] being only 25. Of these 10 are Mackays; while
Macdonalds, Macleods, Morrisons, Munros, Gunns, and
Rosses number 2 each; and Mackintosh, Campbell, and
Docherty i each — all in D company. Private Docherty is
of Irish descent.

I now take the regiments in the order in which they
were embodied.

I. — Mackav's Regiment.

This regiment, as has been mentioned, was formed in
1626. The warrant for raising it was granted by King
Charles I., who directed that a commission should be given
to Sir Donald Mackay to allow him to levy and transport
2000 men, to assist Count Mansfelt in the war which he was
then prosecuting by the King's direction. The Lords of the
Council at Edinburgh accordingly granted the requisite

THK REGIMENTS. 1 97

authority on the i6th March, 1626. Subsequent warrants of
a similar character were issued to Sir Donald, so that,
between the years 1626 and 1631, he was empowered to
raise and equip 8,000 men for service abroad. The war in
which he was about to take an active part was that which
was subsequently known in history as the * Thirty Years* JVar,*
It was begun by the Elector Palatine (husband of the
Princess Elizabeth Stuart), having accepted the crown of
Bohemia, which had been offered to him by the Protestants
of that country. This was not in accordance with the wishes
of the Emperor of Austria, who at once interfered ; and in a
short time the whole of Germany became involved in the
struggle.

What may be called a pioneer portion of the regiment
consisting of about 300 men, under the command of Lieut.-
Colonel James Sinclair,* sailed from Aberdeen for Gliickstadt
on the Elbe, and arrived at its destination before the main
body of the regiment embarked. Further detachments
probably were sent off in the same way.

But the main body of the regiment (over 2000 men) em-
barked at Cromarty on the loth October, 1626, and after a
passage of five days arrived at Gliickstadt. As Sir Donald
Mackay, owing to sickness, was not able to accompany his
men, the regiment was under the command of Lieut. -Colonel
Arthur Forbes (a son of Lord Forbes). On landing, it was
put into comfortable winter quarters, and remained in the
** fat and fertile land of Holstein '* for about six months.

* As there is no reference to this officer or his men in Munro's
" Expedition," it is probable that on arriving in Holstein, Lieut.-
Colonel Sinclair at once placed his small force at the disposal of
Count Mansfelt. .

198 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

In the meantime Count Mansfelt, under whose leadership
the regiment was intended to serve, died, and it became
necessary to make other arrangements for its employment.
Sir Donald thereupon entered into an agreement with the
King of Denmark to fight under his banner. This was a
natural step, for the Danish King had embarked in the same
cause ; and besides, he was uncle to King Charles I. and
the Princess Elizabeth, and service under him was quite in
harmony with the feelings of the Scottish soldiers and their
leaders.

Sir Donald on recovering from his sickness "tooke
shipping from Scotland to Holland, and from thence over-
land " to Holstein, where he joined his regiment in the latter
part of March, 1627. During the winter the regiment had been
well exercised and put under good discipline, so that Munro
when describing it, wrote, " mine eyes did never see a more
complete regiment for bodies of men and valiant souldiers."
When first embodied the greater part of the men would
undoubtedly be from Sir Donald's own territory — the
Mackay Country — but later, when detachment after detach-
ment had to be sent out, the ranks were filled up by men
from all quarters. It is a tradition that Sir Donald's own
company was composed of gentlemen from Strathnaver.

Immediately after Sir Donald had joined his regiment,
orders were given that it should proceed to Itzehoe, to be
inspected by the King of Denmark, and take the oath of
fidelity to that sovereign. The regiment was drawn up in
three divisions " in good order of battaile, all officers being
placed according to their stations orderly, colours fleeing,
drummes beating, horses neying, his Majestic comes royally
forward, salutes the regiment, and is saluted againe with all

THE REGIMENTS. 1 99

due respect and reverence used at such times ; his Majestie
having viewed front flancks and reare, the regiment fronting
alwayes towards his Majestie, who having made a stand,
ordained the regiment to march by him in divisions, which
orderly done, and with great respect and reverence, as
became ; his Majestie being mightily well pleased did praise
the regiment, that ti^er thereafter 7vas most praiseworthy.
The colonell and the principall officers having kissed his
Majesties hand, retired to their former stations ; " and the
oath having been taken by officers and men, and the articles
of war read and published, the regiment was marched off by
companies to its quarters.

The next day Sir Donald received instructions to take
seven of his companies across the Elbe, and for about ten
weeks the regiment, in detachments, was marched from
place to place till towards the middle of July, when all the
companies met by arrangement at Hoitzenburg, a pleasantly
situated town at the junction of the Elbe and the Boitze.
But to the disappointment of officers and men they were
not destined to be long together. In a few days orders
came that the regiment had again to be divided. Sir
Donald, with Lieut.-Colonel Seton and seven companies,
got orders to march to Ruppin, while four companies, under
Major Dunbar, were to remain for the defence of Boitzen-
burg. It was known that a large force of Austrians under
Tilly was approaching Denmark, and that one of the columns
was marching directly upon the town which the Highlanders
were left to defend. On the third day after the departure
of Sir Donald with the main portion of the regiment, the
approach of the enemy was announced. They halted
within cannon-shot distance, and at once began the siege.

200 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

But Major Dunbar had not been idle. He was well versed
in the theory and practice of war, and had left nothing
undone that would enable him to defend his post like a man
of honour. The small garrison of Highlanders numbered
only about 800 men, while the attacking force was at least
10,000 strong. The first night a gallant and successful
sortie was made under the personal leadership of Dunbar.
The enemy, determined to be avenged for this, on the
following day attacked the sconce at all points, but after a
long and desperate struggle, were beaten off with a loss of
over 500 men. Fresh troops were pressed forward, and the
attack was renewed with increased fury, but the enemy were
again baffled and had to fall back. A third and even more
desperate attempt was made to carry the sconce. [The
sconce defended the bridge, and if captured, the enemy's
cavalry might have crossed the Elbe, and overrun Holstein,
before the King could have been informed that Boitzenburg
had fallen.] Storming parties came on in great force, and
made a most vigorous assault, but the firing of the Highland
musketeers told again and again with deadly effect. But
in spite of heavy losses the Austrian soldiers continued to
press on, and the gaps made in their ranks by the well
directed fire of the Highlanders were constantly and steadily
filled up. The loss was not, however, all on the side of the
enemy, many of the defenders were killed, and a large
number wounded. After a while the firing of the
Highlanders suddenly ceased. Their supply of ammunition
was exhausted ! The Imperialists surprised at the unex-
pected silence, instinctively guessed the cause, and redoubling
their efforts made a rush at the walls. The Highlanders,
for a moment, were at their wits' end ; but tearing the sand

THE RKGIMENTS. 20I

from the ramparts they threw it in the eyes of their assailants
as they attempted to scale the walls, and furiously attacking
them with the butt-ends of their muskets, drove them from
the sconce. But it was a dreadful struggle. At last the
storming party fell back, the fire of the artillery ceased and
Boitzenburg was saved. The enemy had again over 500
men killed, and a very large number wounded. The High-
landers had two officers and forty men killed, while many
were wounded, and ** carried the true marks of their valour
imprinted in their bodies, for their country's credit."
Finding Boitzenburg so well defended, the Imperialists
decided to cross the Elbe at another point. This they
effected considerably higher up the river. In the meantime
the King of Denmark had sent orders to Major Dunbar to
retire from the sconce, bring off his cannon, if he could, and
blow uj) the bridge. He was then to leave two companies
of his men at Lauenburg, and retire with the rest to
Gliickstadt. These orders he carried out.

This was the first opportunity the Mackay regiment had
of showing the quality of its men. They gallantly accom-
plished the hazardous task to which they had been detailed,
and showed by their deeds that they were truly (as the
King of Sweden afterwards characterised them) a band of
Scottish Invincibles.

The two companies which were left at Lauenburg were
speedily besieged, and Major Wilson, the officer in command,
seeing he could not hold his position, asked for a truce to
arrange terms of surrender. This was granted, and con-
ditions were agreed upon. These were, that the garrison
should march out with bag and baggage and drums beating,
and that they should have a convoy to Gliickstadt. But

202 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Major Wilson had not been careful as to details. On
leaving the castle his colours were taken from him, and on
his complaining of what he considered a breach of faith,
he was told to read the agreement. He was thus forced to
march to Gliickstadt without colours. For this oversight
he was dismissed from the regiment with disgrace, and his
command given to Captain Duncan Forbes.

Major Dunbar had no idle time, for the enemy having
obtained a footing in Holstein, he was ordered, without
delay, to take his four companies and defend the Castle of
Bredenberg, which, he was instructed, was not to be
surrendered on any condition. A large number of people
had taken refuge in it when the Austrians first entered the
land, and had carried with them a great amount of treasure.
Dunbar had only about 400 men to maintain this important
place, for Boitzenburg and Lauenburg had thinned the
ranks of his four companies nearly one half. The castle
was poorly fortified, and Dunbar had just got into it, but
had scarcely time to get the drawbridge pulled up, when
Tilly and his forces surrounded the place. A trumpeter
was at once sent with a summons demanding an instant
surrender. This, of course, Dunbar refused. The enemy
immediately began a hot and vigorous siege, which lasted
without intermission for six days. The defenders resisted
bravely. At length the enemy's guns made two breaches in
the walls, and the Imperialists approached the moat. Tilly
then sent a drummer to the Major to see if he would now
surrender ; but the answer was that " as long as he had a
drop of blood in his head, the place would never be given
up." This answer so incensed Tilly that he swore that
when he got *' the upper hand they should all die without

THE REGIMENTS. 203

quarter." Shortly after Dunbar's answer had been given,
the brave man was struck by a musket ball, and instantly
killed. The other officers would not capitulate, and the
siege was prosecuted with renewed fury. Officer after
officer fell, and the enemy having passed the moat, got
possession of the castle, and a wholesale massacre took
place. The atrocities committed were brutal in the extreme.
With the exception of Ensign Lumsden, who escaped almost
miraculously, every officer and man of the Highland detach-
ment was either killed while in the discharge of duty, or
savagely butchered ; while of the country people who had
taken refuge in the castle, only a few were able to escape
with their lives from the brutal soldiery.

The enemy had above looo men killed before they took
the castle.

This terrible disaster left only the seven companies of
the regiment with which Sir Donald Mackay had been
ordered to march to Ruppin. They were then sent to
Wismar, and remained there five weeks, waiting for arrange-
ments to be made to transport the Danish army ; and ships
arriving from Copenhagen, about 8,000 men, including the
Highlanders, embarked for Heiligenhaven, where the whole
force was safely landed. Immediately after landing, orders
were given to march to Oldenburg, where, it was hoped, the
Danish forces there, if united with those just landed, might
be able to defeat Count Tilly, who was known to be advancing
with an immense army for the purpose of over-running
Holstein. To the Highlanders was allotted the task of
defending the Pass, which, by a strange overlook on the part
of the Danish generals, had been left unfortified. As they
drew near, the Holsteiners who were on service had all fled

204 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

except their captain. The Pass was thus nearly lost ; but
Sir Donald hurried forward an officer with a platoon of
musketeers, " mostly young gentlemen of his own company, "
to keep possession of the post. This they did ; but being
hard pressed, and suffering severely from the fire of the
enemy, "many of them died in the defence of it." The
first division of the regiment came steadily on, and a sharp
engagement took place. The pikemen had a hard time of
it ; for they had to stand two hours exposed to cannon and
musket shot, so that " their sufferings and hurts were greater
both among officers and men, than the hurt done to the
musketeers, for few of their officers escaped unhurt, and
divers of them were killed." During the engagement a
barrel of gunpowder exploded, by which Sir Donald was
burnt in the face, several of his officers wounded, and many
soldiers were killed. The enemy having seen the explosion,
tried hard to force the Pass, but their efforts were in vain,
and they were obliged to retire. The first division had been
fighting for some hours, when the second division came up,
and " falling on with man-like courage " the other " fell off
to refresh themselves." The fighting continued for some
time with unabated vigour ; but after mid-day the regiment
was enabled to keep the Pass ** by companies, one company
relieving another till night . . . and then darkness made
the service to cease." This engagement lasted from 7 o'clock
in the morning till about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. By the
indomitable pluck of the Highlanders the Imperialists were
kept in check, and the Danish army was saved that day.
But it was a sad struggle for our brave countrymen ; for in
the unequal contest they had 3 officers and about 400 men
killed, and 13 officers were wounded.

THE REGIMENTS. 205

The Duke of Weimar, who was the general in command,
came to Sir Donald, and after complimenting him and his
regiment, requested that as they " had done bravely all day
in being the instruments, under God, of his safety and of his
army, he would once more request that the regiment might
hold out the inch, as they had done the span, till it was dark,
and then they should be relieved, as he was a Christian."
The fact was, that apparently, out of his whole army, the
Duke had no other regiment he could trust for the important
duty of again guarding the Pass. A Council of War had
decided that it would be hopeless to attempt to stand against
Tilly's overwhelming forces. It had therefore been resolved
that the army should retire with all speed to Heiligenhaven,
get on board the ships there, and sail for Denmark. The
Duke had insisted that as the Highlanders had behaved so
heroically, they should have some special mark of favour,
and as they *' deserved best" that they "should be first
brought off." Having arranged with Sir Donald that a
company of Highlanders should keep guard at the Pass, the
Duke rode off; and then Sir Donald left the camp for
Heiligenhaven to engage ships for embarking his men.
The agreement was that as soon as all was quiet on the part
of the enemy at the Pass, Sir Donald's men were to retire,
and marching quickly, reach the harbour and embark before
any other portion of the Danish army. The Pass was guarded,
and the Duke was as good as his word.

It was a moonlight night in October, and at 10 o'clock
the regiment reached Heiligenhaven, and drew up on the
shore. They had been instructed to wait there for Sir Donald,
who had gone out to the roadstead to arrange for their
conveyance. But he found the shipmasters panic-stricken,

206 SUTHKRLANI) AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

the incessant firing which they had heard during the day
having so filled them with fi'ight that they could not be
induced to bring any of their vessels near the shore. So Sir
Donald had to return disappointed.

What had been intended to be a quiet and orderly retreat
had become a hurried and disorderly rout, for as soon as it was
known that the Highlanders had left the Pass the rest of the
army, horse and foot, made a rush from the camp to the
seaboard ; and ere long the cavalry came galloping down
to the water's edge in the greatest confusion. The officers
had lost all control over their men, and discipline was at an
end. The number of fugitives rapidly increased, and soon
men and horses, pioneers, musketeers, and pikemen, baggage
and ammunition, were crowded in an unwieldy and unman-
ageable mass on the pier and shore.

Sir Donald realised the gravity of the situation. The
enemy was known to be in pursuit, and there was not a
moment to be lost. The runaway cavalry, which consisted
chiefly of German levies in the Danish service, had crowded
the long pier, and were in the act of seizing the shipping for
the conveyance of themselves and their horses. Sir Donald
saw he had only one chance, and ordered his Highlanders to
clear the pier of the horsemen. *' Pikemen, to the front!''
he cried ; and formed in line, eight ranks deep, the whole
length of the pier, the pikemen in front and musketeers in
rear, the Highlanders advanced, and charging the horsemen
forced them over the edges of the pier into the water. But
the channel was shallow and they escaped drowning. The
Highlanders then seized upon a ship, and after placing their
colours and a number of men on board, had it moved a little
from the shore to prevent its getting aground. This accom-

THE RECilMKNTS. 207

plished, the ship's boat was manned with an officer and some
musketeers, who were sent to force other ships out in the
roads into their service ; and thus a sufficient number of
vessels being secured, the regiment was safely embarked.
It was hard work getting the men shipped. Some of the
officers toiled all night ferrying the sick and wounded from
the shore, and the last boatful was just leaving when the
Imperialists entered Heiligenhaven. But the baggage and
the horses of the mounted officers had all to be left behind.
When day broke it was seen that Tilly's army had possession
of the town ; and the Highlanders from their ships had the
mortification to witness the surrender of the Duke of Weimar's
army to the Austrians. They gave themselves up without
striking a blow. Of the whole of the Duke's army the
Mackay regiment alone escaped. The German horsemen
whom the Highlanders had driven from the pier, were
mercenaries and nothing more, for they at once took service
under Tilly. "We saw," said Munro, "the enemies army
drawne up in battell, horse, foot, and cannon, and the
routed Danish army opposite them. I did see six and thirty
cornets of horse, being full troupes, without loosing of one
pistoll, give themselves prisoners in the enemies mercy,
whereof the most part took service. As also I did see five
regiments of foote, being forty colours, follow their examples,
rendering themselves and their colours without losing of one
musket."

Sir Donald with his regiment sailed for Flensburg to
report what had taken place to the King, and receive further
orders from his Majesty. The King was much grieved on
learning of the heavy loss his forces had sustained ; but as he
was not in a position to enter at once again on the offensive,

208 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

he ordered Sir Donald to proceed to the island of Funnen,
and there the Highlanders landed. It was only a year since
they had left Scotland, and six months since they had
entered on active service, but the struggles in which they
had been engaged had been of so sanguinary a character,
that the regiment mustered only about one third of the
number of men who had embarked at Cromarty on the loth
October, 1626. It was after landing in Funnen that news
reached them of the taking of Bredenburg by the Austrians,
and the massacre of its brave defenders.

The heavy losses the regiment had sustained became
matter for serious consideration. Sir Donald called his
officers together for consultation, and the result of their
deliberation was that he should at once proceed to Scotland
and bring over 1000 men to recruit the regiment. A new
agreement was also made with the King of Denmark to
continue in his service. Sir Donald, accompanied by seven
officers (one from each of the remaining companies) accord-
ingly departed for Scotland ; and Lieut.-Colonel Seton
having gone to Holland on leave, the regiment was left in
command of Robert Munro (author of the " Expedition " ),
who, when news had been received of the death of Major
Dunbar, had been promoted to the rank of Major.

During the absence of Sir Donald Mackay the regiment
took part in various minor battles, but the most important
service in which it was engaged was the defence of Stralsund,
one of the cities of the Hanseatic league. This city had
hitherto remained neutral during the war ; but its vicinity to
the coasts of Sweden and Denmark, and its noble harbour,
made its possession of great importance. Wallenstein, the
j Imperialist general, had declared that he would take it,

THE REGIMENTS. 209

whereupon the citizens sent a message to the King of
Denmark begging for his assistance, for an Austrian army
was already in the neighbourhood getting ready to lay siege
to the town. The King at once promised help, for he knew
if Stralsund fell into the hands of the Imperialists, the free
navigation of the Baltic would be lost, and the Danish
Islands be at the mercy of the conqueror. He selected the
Mackay regiment for the hazardous duty, "having had
sufficient proof of its former service ... so that before
others they were trusted on this occasion." Seven companies
(or rather portions of seven companies) of the regiment had
been left in Denmark. Orders were given that they should
at once proceed to Stralsund, and on the 25th May, 1628,
three companies under Lieut. -Colonel Seton arrived in the
harbour, and were at once landed and put on duty. On the
2()th, Major Munro arrived with the remaining four compan-
ies, and the worthy major records that no sooner were they
drawn up in the market-place, than they were sent to the
Franken Gate *' to relieve the other division which had
watched three days and three nights together uncome off,
that being the weakest part of the whole towne, and the only
poste pursued by the enemy, which our lieutenant-colonell
made choice of being the most dangerous, for his countrie's
credit." For six weeks their duty was hard and unremitting,
neither officer nor soldier being ** suffered to come off his
watch, neither to dine nor suppe, for their meate was carried
unto them, to their poste." Night and day they were kept
at their posts without any respite. They made attempts to
strengthen their position, but had, so to speak, to work with
spade in one hand, and pike or musket in the other, for the

enemy was always on the alert to attack them at any moment.

2IO SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

The loss of life was heavy on both sides. " Many rose in
the morning," wrote Munro, ** went not to bed at night :
and many supped at night sought no breakfast in the
morning. . . . Some had their heads separated from
their bodies by the cannon, as happened to one lieutenant
and thirteene souldiers, that had their fourteene heads shot
from them by one cannon bullet at once/' On the 26th
June, Wallenstein, annoyed at the length of the siege, pro-
ceeded to the camp for the purpose of conducting operations
himself. After examining the walls he swore he would
" take the place in three nights though it were hanging with
iron chains betwixt the earth and the heavens." " But," as
the historian writes " forgetting to take God on his side, he
was disappointed."

Between 10 and 11 o'clock that night the assault was
made. The Highlanders, knowing that Wallenstein was in
the camp, were prepared for a more than ordinary attack on
their position, and when the storming party advanced, upwards
of a thousand strong, were ready for them. After a
struggle of an hour and a half, the enemy was driven back.
But they had reliefs at hand, and a second party, equal in
number to the first, renewed the attack. The Highlanders
made short work of them, and these also were driven back.
And so the night passed on, one storming party succeeding
another, and meeting the same fate, until morning, when as
day was breaking a last and desperate effort was made to
force the Gate. They succeeded so far as to get within the
outworks, but were beaten back with great slaughter, and
forced to retire. The enemy had about a thousand men
killed, and the Highlanders had "neare two hundred,
besides those who were hurt," The moat was filled with

THE REOIMKNTS. 211

the bodies of the slain ; the works were ruined and could
not be repaired, and this " caused the next nights watch to
be more dangerous." That night there was again severe
fighting with great loss of life on both sides. But as soon
as the morning light shone, the Highlanders armed, some
** with corslets, headpieces, with half-pikes, morgen-sternes,
and swords," rushed out "pell mell amongst the enemies,
and chased them quite out of the workes againe, and
retiring with credit maintained still the triangle or raveline/'*
Finding that he could not take the city so easily as he had
imagined, Wallenstein sent a trumpeter to know if the
defenders would treat with him upon terms. Lieut-Colonel
Seton was glad of this offer, and an armistice of 14 days was
agreed upon to draw up terms and ascertain the views of the
King of Denmark on the subject. The treaty was just ready
for signature, when orders came to Seton not to sign it, as
troops were advancing with all haste for his relief. Shortly
afterwards Lord Spynie with his regiment entered the town,
and as he brought what the defenders were much in need of,
a sufficient " provision of money and ammunition . . the
treaty was rejected and made voide." At this time also an

* The sang^uiiiary nature of the strug^g^le, during the six weeks
in which our regiment was employed in the defence of Stralsund,
may be more easily imagined than described. Neariy *'five
hundred good men, besides officers, were killed, and of the remnant
that escaped, both of officers and soldiers, not one hundred were
free of wounds, received honourably in defence of the good cause."
The siege lasted four months in all, and cost the Austrians upwards
of 12,000 of their best soldiers. Notwithstanding this immense
sacrifice they were compelled to retire, after spiking their cannon
and setting fire to their baggage, so as to prevent any booty falling
into the hands of the defenders.

212 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

agreement was entered into by the Kings of Denmark and
Sweden by which the defence of Stralsund was undertaken by
the latter. Sir Alexander Leslie was appointed Governor, and
the forces employed by the King of Denmark were ordered to
be withdrawn, and Swedish troops employed in their place.

The King of Denmark now made an attempt to secure
for himself the province of Pomerania, and orders were
given that Mackay's and Spynie's regiments should march
from Stralsund to Wolgast, and join the Danish army there.
The remnant of our regiment — it was only a remnant, for it
was not 400 strong — was led by Captain Thomas Mackenzie,
his superior officers being all disabled. The King decided
to attack the Austrians, but his soldiers were no match for
the Imperialists, and the greater part of his army was
destroyed without ever coming to a regular engagement.
Fearing that he might be taken prisoner, he resolved to
embark for Denmark with the remainder of his troops ; and
as the enemy was pressing hard, he called upon Captain
Mackenzie to take his regiment and keep the enemy in
check, until the routed battalions were all shipped. Our
regiment, we are told by Munro, ** had got such a name for
bravery that all the difficult and dangerous work" was
allotted to it. Mackenzie did as his Majesty desired, and
then got safely away himself with his soldiers, and sailed for
Denmark in company with the King's ships.

On their way they met I^rd Reay,* who had with him

' ♦ V\Tien home arrang-ing- for the recruits for his regfiment, Sir

[ Donald Mackay had visited London, and as a mark of appreciation

* of the services he had rendered in Denmark, the Kinj^ [Charles I.]

i created him a Peer of Scotland, under the title of Baron Reav of

■ Reay, by patent dated 20th June, 1628.

]

THE REGIMENTS. 213

over 1000 recruits for his regiment. Lord Reay's ships
joined those of the King, and all sailed together for Copen-
hagen, where they arrived on the 9th of August. Lord
Reay began at once to reorganise his regiment. Few of the
band survived who had left Cromarty two years before, and
the changes and promotions which were necessary in the
various companies, made the task almost like forming a new
regiment. When re-formed it consisted of 10 companies
and numbered about 1500 men, besides officers and super-
numeraries. This was a great reduction, in every way,
whenr compared with the strength of the regiment when first
embodied. Among the promotions I shall only mention
that of Major Munro, who was appointed Lieut-Colonel, in
place of Lieut-Colonel Seton.

The regiment being now thoroughly equipped received a
month's pay, together with a settlement of all arrears, and as
a security to Lord Reay for the payment of the money due to
him, the King of Denmark gave him an "assignation on His
Majestic of Great Britaine " for jC4S7^ stg* Leaving his
regiment contented and in good quarters. Lord Reay returned
to Scotland, taking with him Lieutenant lye Mackay of his
own company, and Captain John Munro.

But the services of the regiment under the King of

* It seems, however, that he had great difficulty in gettinjj^ this
money — indeed it is doubtful if he everg-ot the whole of it — and the
payments on account were in small sums. After waiting three
years he wrote (on 29th March, 1632), " his Majestie oweth me at
present two thousand five hundred pounds, " and begged that the
Treasurer be authorised to pay him " the odd five hundred pounds
to doe my present business . . . I am willing," he added, "not
to presse the other two thousand pounds till God make an end of
this triall.'

214 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Denmark came to an end sooner than had been expected.
Preliminaries for a treaty of peace between that monarch
and the Emperor of Austria had been agreed to in May, and in
August, 1629, the treaty was signed. The terms were rather
humiliating to the King ; and one of the conditions was that
the Scottish troops in his service were to quit Germany
forthwith. Lieut. -Coionel Munro, on behalf of Lord Reay,
settled for the companies which were under his command ;
the payment was on a liberal scale, and the King gave orders
, that shipping should be provided to convey the officers and

men to Scodand, and also that until the ships were ready to
sail the regiment should be furnished with free quarters at

IElsinore. But the regiment did not return to Scotland.
The war between Denmark and Austria certainly was ended,

but the great struggle was only entering on its acute stage.

While the Danes and the Austrians were arranging their treaty

of peace, Lieut.-Colonel Munro, acting under instructions
f from Lord Reay, entered into negotiations with the King of

} Sweden for the services of the regiment ; and the Swedish

: monarch, who had formed a high opinion of the Scots, was

t glad to secure the assistance of a corps which had made

j itself so famous. Conditions, satisfactory to all concerned,

/ were agreed upon ; and the regiment, immediately after it

\ had been graciously dismissed by his " Majesty of Denmark

\ , and honestly rewarded," instead of returning to Scotland,

{ entered on a new service in which it gained, if that were

* possible, even greater honours than it had achieved when

serving the King of Denmark.*

j * The Administrative Staff of the reg-iment when it entered

', the service of Sweden (and probably it was the same in that of

\ Denmark), was composed of 21 members, viz : The Colonel,

THK RICGIMKNTS. 215

The Strength of the regiment when it entered the Swedish
service, according to the official Military Lists, was two
battalions of 1 200 men each. As soon as the arrangements
were completed, six companies, then at Elsinore, were in
obedience to orders from Gustavus Adolphus despatched at
once by Munro to Braunsburg in Prussia, where they
remained for more than a year without being engaged in
active service. Lord Reay arrived in Denmark in November,
and gave instructions that six companies, which had been
waiting in Holland for orders, should proceed from that
country to Sweden. He remained in Denmark (where Lieut.-
Colonel Munro joined him) till February, 1630, when both
proceeded to Sweden to wait upon the King. His Majesty
received them very graciously, and immediately after their
arrival reviewed the six companies, expressing himself as so
highly satisfied with the condition and discipline of the
Highlanders, that he "did wish in open presence of the army
that all his foot were as well disciplined.*^ Lord Reay
remained in Sweden with this division of his regiment, but
Munro was directed to proceed to Braunsburg to take
command of the six companies which were there.

Lieut. -Colonel, Major, Quarter-M.ister, 2 Chaplains, 4 Surgeons, a
Rej^iniental Judg^e, an Executioner, and 9 inferior officers (clerks,
orderlies, &c.).

The Companies^ of which there were 12, contained each 190 men
otall ranks, including i Captain, i Lieutenant, 1 Ensign, 1 Armourer,
I Muster Clerk, and 6 Drummers and Pipers.

The Pay of all ranks was very high when compared with the
military allowances of the present day. For example (converting
the Swedish money of 1630 into the British equivalent of 1890), the
Colonelhad;{J36o, the Lieut. -Colonel ;{J 160, Major and Captainseach
;{Jio8, Lieutenants and Ensigns each £^<) los.. Sergeants about £22^
and Privates j£8 6s. 3d., all per month.

2l6 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

It would occupy too much space to give even the briefest
outline of the various engagements in which the regiment
took a part while it served under the Swedish flag ; but a few
of them may be mentioned. The first service was with
Gustavus Adolphus when he began his great campaign of
1 630- 1 63 2. The Swedish army, led by the King in person,
and numbering in all about 13,000 men, landed at Penemiinde
on the 24th June, 1630. Lord Reay, with the portion of his
regiment which had remained in Sweden all winter, formed
a part of this army. About a month after landing Stettin
was taken. This was effected without bloodshed by Lord
Reay and his men, on the 26th July. While the drawbridge
was down Lord Reay secured the gate, whereupon *'the
Towne garrison retyred from thence within the port, and
the Scots entering pell mell with them, the port was also
taken. By this did the King presently enter the Towne, with
his whole army." The Duke of Pomerania having ihus lost
his principal city, dismissed his garrison, " who thereupon
took Oath and Pay for the King's service *' ; and Gustavus,
on getting into Stettin, appointed a solemn thanksgiving for
the easy victory which had been gained. The next work was
the taking of Damm. Hut there was no resistance, and after
the town had been taken possession of in the name of the
King of Sweden, Lord Reay and his soldiers returned to
Stettin. The siege of Colberg, where ** Lord Reay led the
valiant Scottish men of his owne nation," was the next service
in which they were engaged. The siege lasted about four
months, and ended by the garrison (who were without pro-
visions) capitulating. When the Auslrians quitted the
post they had defended so well, the Highlanders were under
arms to receive and salute them when they marched away.

THK REGIMENTS. 217

The battalion which had been sent to Braunsburg, and
was now under the command of Lieut.-Colonel Munro, got
orders on the 12th of August to march to PiUau, and there
embark for Wolgast. Two ships were chartered and started
on their voyage, Munro with three companions being on
board one of them — the " Lilly Nichol," while the other
vessel — the "Hound" took Major Sennot and the remait\ing
companies. During a gale the vessels got separated ; the
"Hound" reached her destination in safety, and the soldiers
on board were sent to Stettin ; but the " Lilly Nichol," after
various mishaps, was wrecked near Rugenwalde, a town on
the coast halfway between Stettin and Danzig. All on board
got safely to land, excepting a sailor and one of the soldiers,
who attempting to swim ashore were drowned. The only
articles saved from the wreck were "swords, and pikes, and
some wet muskets." The town was held by the Austrians, but
Munro, by a bold stroke, secured both it and the castle for
the Swedish King. The following is a German version of
how this was accomplished :

" The bold and successful attack of the Scottish Colonel
Munro has a tinge of romance about it. The ship on
which several companies of M ickay's regiment were being
conveyed from Prussia, was stranded in the neighbourhood
of Rugenwalde. The soldiers lost their ammunition and
baggage, and had only aboit 500 muskets and a few swords
and pikes for their armament. But the courageous and
determined Scot did not hesitate on that account to attempt
to carry out the commission he had undertaken, when he was
appointed to the command of these men. The governor of
the castle was secretly a friend of Sweden, and Munro being
informed of this, requested him to open a back gate for the

2l8 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Scots to enter on the following night, when he doubted not
that he would be able to drive out the Imperialists. Every-
thing succeeded as was desired, and the town and castle
were taken. . . . When the King of Sweden was informed
of the great feat which Munro had accomplished, he said that
he did not in the least doubt that the favour of God was
clearly shown by the wonderful way in which this had been
brought about."

Munro kept possession of Rugenwalde for nine weeks,
and then, being relieved by Sir John Hepburn, was instructed
to take possession of and defend the castle of Schiefelbein.
This was an important position, and according to the Swedish
Intelligencer Munro was selected for this work because his
** men were knowne to be fortunate by their former taking
of Rugenwaldt, and valiant too by their bravery in other
services." But I need not lengthen out the story. After the
taking of Colberg, Lord Reay returned with his men to
Stettin, and shortly afterwards Munro was ordered to join the
head quarters with his three companies. When united, the
regiment, although it consisted of 12 companies, had only
about 1,200 men, or half its strength. On his way to Stettin,
Munro met Lord Reay by appointment at Cireifenburg. His
lx)rdship was proceeding to Great Britain under a new
commission from the King, not only to raise men to complete
the ranks of his own regiment, but to raise several new ones
for the Swedish service. He did not again take any personal
part in the campaign, but remained in Great Britain, doing
good service, however, for the King of Sweden by executing
the commissions with which he had been entrusted. He sent
over the recruits for his own regiment, bringing it up to its
full strength ; and raised another regiment of Scots, to which

THE REGIMENTS. 219

he appointed field officers from his own regiment. Other
regiments in England and in Scotland were likewise raised
under the authority he held from the King of Sweden ; and
in addition he secured the services of a regiment which was
to act as a Body-(iuard to his Majesty.*

During the latter part of 1630, the plague raged in Stettin.
According to the Swedish Lists 285 men of our regiment
were ill of this disease at the end of the year, and " divers
brave souldiers died."

In January, 1631, Gustavus Adolphus, "the Lion of the
North," as he was designated, made preparations for the
campaign which virtually decided the fate of Germany, and
the Protestant religion. Lord Reay's regiment had its share
in the honours of this war, but it got also more than an
average share of the hard knocks which were given in the
struggle. Having at this time been reinforced by the recruits
which his Lordship had sent out from Scotland, it consisted
of 16 companies (2 battalions), and numbered 2,400 men.
[In 1631 the K-ing of Sweden had eight Scottish regiments in
his service, with a total strength of 12,600 men.] Before
starting on the campaign the K-ing formed what was known
as The Scots Bri(;ai>e. It consisted of four regiments, and
from the tartan of the Highlanders, and the colour of the
doublets and standards of the other regiments, it was com-
monly called TIu Green Brigade.

* " Mackay, our countryman, is in great honour," wrote James
Haird, the Commissary, to his brother, from Edinburgh, 17th
March, 1631, "and is General over three regiments, and Captain
of the King of Sweden's Guards, quhilk consist of an hundred horse
and an hundred foot, and sail be all Scottismen. '[An Account OF
THE SlRNAMK OF Baird, p. 63, Edinburgh, 1857.I

'■^

1 2 20 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

^ A movement of the Swedish troops was made towards the

Oder ; but the Austrian s in great force, under General Tilly,
were also on the move, and laid seige to New Brandenburg,
in which about looo of Lord Reay's men, under Lieut -Col.
Lindsay, and an equal number of Swedes, under General
Kniphausen, had been left as a garrison. The town was in a
wretched condition for defence, the walls being in ruins; and
there were only two small guns as the whole artillery of the
defenders. Tilly had with him about 22,000 men and 26
guns, and beset the town on all sides. He summoned the
garrison to surrender. They refused, and for nine days made
a desperate and heroic resistance. Worn out, and seeing no
chance of succour, they at last asked for terms, but Tilly now
refused to give them any quarter. Then followed the last
assault, and after a dreadful struggle the town was taken. A
merciless slaughter was the result. The fury of the Austrians
was directed chiefly against our countymen ; and on that
memorable day (26th March, 163 1) over 600 of Lord Reay's
Highlanders were cut to pieces. Five ofl!icers and a few
soldiers were taken prisoners ; two officers escaped by leaping
from the walls, and making their way across country were
fortunately able to join Munro ; but all the other officers,
including Lieut. -Colonel Lindsay, were killed.*

The news of this terrible disaster reached the Scots
Brigade while the Swedish army was on its way to lay seige
to Frankfort on the Oder, and filled the w-hole camp with

* *' Half Lord Reay's Regiment was here massacred almost to
a man. Lieut. -Colonel Lindsay, who commanded this corps in his
colonel's absence, was killed in the breach, as were also MoncriefF,
Keith, and Haydon — ikW Scots." [Harte's Life of Gustavus, Vol.

I., P- -275 I

THE REGIMENTS. 221

horror, but especially the six companies of the Reays, which
were under the command of Lieut.-Colonel Munro. This
Frankfort was a rich and strongly fortified town, and had a
garrison of about 10,000 men. Lord Reay's and Hepburn's
regiments took the leading part in the assault* which led to
the capture of the town. This was on Sunday, the 3rd April,
1 63 1. There was a desperate resistance, and inch by inch,
every foot of the way was contested. "Quarter!" cried the
slowly retreating Austrians. " New Brandenburg I New
Brandenburg I " shouted the Scottish soldiers. Shoulder to
shoulder, Highlander and Ix)wlander advanced like moving
castles, the long pikes levelled in front, while the rear ranks
of musketeers fired in volleys from behind. It was a dread-
ful retribution, — 40 officers and about 3000 soldiers of the
Austrian army were left dead in the streets ; 50 colours were
taken, and an immense quantity of treasure. 'J'he Swedish
loss was about 800 men, and of this number 300 belonged
to the Scots Brigade. No wilful injury was done to the town,
and as soon as order was restored, the King appointed a day
of thanksgiving to be observed for the victory.

Many towns and strongholds fell before the victorious
Swedish army. In May it rendezvoused in the the neighbour-
hood of Berlin, and remained in that (juarter till the end of
July. About the middle of August a large number of recruits,
sent out by Lord Reay, arrived at Stettin, and under the
command of Lieut.-Colonel John Munro, joined the regiment

* Before the attack began, the King^, addressing the Scottish
leaders said, '* Now, mv valiant Scots, remember vour countrymen
who were slain at New Brandenburg-." [Harte'« Life of Gustavus,
Vol. I., p. 279.]

222 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

at Wittenburg. But I shall pass over the services of the regi-
ment (although it took part in many important engagements)
until the 7th of September, when the great battle of I^ipzig
— "the most remarkable battle recorded in history" — was
fought. The result of the battle was a severe defeat to the
Austrians, and their retreat from the battlefield was described
as being like a race for life. Tilly w^as wounded ; but he
escaped, leaving many of his best officers dead on the field,
and "full 15,000 of his men were slaine upon the place of
battle or in the chase." Gustavus had a little over 4,000
Scottish soldiers in his army on this occasion, and they did
the bulk of the fighting. Of the Mackay regiment about 1,300
were present. They formed the leading column, and had
" the honour of first breaking the Austrian ranks. The
Imperialists regarded them with terror, calling them the
invincible old regime ptt^ and the "right hand of Gustavus
Adolphus." I do not know what loss our regiment sustained,
but it must have been heavy, for two weeks after the battle
the strength of the first battalion is returned as 600 strong
"and 600 wanting."

The victorious army marched towards the Rhine, and
before the end of the month all the towns between I^ipzig
and Wiirzburg had surrendered to the King ; then Frankfort
on the Maine, Oppenheim and Mayence were taken. The
last-named, the most strongly fortified city in Germany,
surrendered after a three days' siege, and redeemed itself
from pillage by paying a large ransom — 300,000 dollars —
but our countr)'men did not get any share of the money, and
Munro made some strong observations thereanent, to the
effect that the Scots had on many occasions to endure all the
hard knocks, while to the Swedes and Germans were given all

THE RKCilMKNTS. 223

the plums. The next important engagement was the battle
of the Lech, where on the 5th April the famous Austrian
general, Tilly, was wounded, and died three days afterwards.
Then the progress of the Swedish army was an uninterrupted
series of successes, and in a short time the whole of Bavaria,
as far as the capital, lay open to Gustavus. On the 6th May
the victorious troops halted before Munich. Lord Reay*s
Highlanders were the first to enter, and their appearance
spread terror among the citizens ; but the leading men had
faith in the magnanimity of the con(iueror, and received
(iustavus and his army with all due respect. Only the
Scottish regiments were permitted to have their quarters
within the walls ; and to the Mackays was entrusted the
honourable duty of being body-guard to the King during the
three weeks they were in the Bavarian capital. But Wallen-
stein, who had succeeded Tilly as Commander-in-chief of the
Austrian army, was marching towards Nurnberg, and Gustavus
Adolphus, in order to checkmate him, left Munich and
proceeded in the same direction. Both armies encamped in
the neighbourhood of the city. Wallenstein had a force of
about 60,000 men, and Gustavus, though at first he had
only about 18,000 men, before the end of July had
probably nearly as many as Wallenstein. From the
end of June till the middle of August, the two armies
lay in sight of each other without coming to a regular
engagement. It seemed to be a game of masterly in-
activity on both sides, and the question was — which could
hold out the longest. Provisions were exhausted, and it was
impossible to obtain supplies. It was necessary that decisive
steps should be taken, and on the 22nd of August, the long
expected battle may be said to have begun. The fighting,

224 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

which continued for three days, was of the most desperate
character, and ended in a drawn battle. No less than 10,000
citizens and 20,000 soldiers were left dead in and around the
devoted city. Both armies remained in their respective
positions till the 14th September, when Gustavus, leaving
5,000 men in Niirnberg, retired with the remainder of his
forces towards the south, and ^Vallenstein, as soon as he
discovered that Gustavus had marched away, also took his
departure, marching however towards the north, and burning
all the villages that were near.

The heav>' losses sustained by the Scots Brigade had so
reduced its numbers that the King, at the end of September,
gave orders that it should go into quarters to rest and wait
for recruits. On the nth of October he took leave of
what was left of the gallant Scottish regiments, in view
of the whole army, and thanked them for their services.
They never saw their great leader again, for in less than
a month (on the 6th November, 1632) he was found dead on
the battlefield of Liitzen.* It is remarkable that the battle
of Liitzen was the only one in which he had engaged the
enemy without the mass of his Scottish troops. Several

* The death of Gustavus Adolphus was a mystery. His body
was found on the battlefield, and it was reported that no one saw
him killed. But in the Archives at Marburg- I found a document
giving a circumstantial account of his murder. The witness of the
deed had one of his legs shot off shortly before the foul act was
committed, and was unable to move or render assistance. The
murderer is believed to have been the Duke of I^Auenburg, who
had a grudge against the King, and had sworn to be revenged.
[See article on this subject by the present writer, in The Scottish
/Review f Vol. XIX., p. 400.]

THE RKc;iMKNTS. ^25

Srottish officers, however, were with him, and among those
who were killed wasC'olonel William Markay (son of Donald
of Seourie) who had been a cai)tain in Lord Reay's regiment.
But although the King was slain, victory remained with the
Swedish army, for Wallenstein was totally defeated, and
forced to retreat to the mountains of Bohemia.

There is little more to say regarding the services of the
Mackay regiment. After the death of (lustavus. Lord
Reay ceased to take any active interest in it, and in the
month of December, 1632, his name disappears from the
Swedish army list. Lieut. -(.'olonel Munro was promoted to
the rank of ('olonel, and the regiment then became known
under the name of its commander, as Munro s regiment.
Munro, desirous of having the regiment made up to its full
strength, left for Scotland in July, 1633, to procure recruits.
At this date it numbered only about 240 men ; but recruits
arriving from lime to time, the ranks got well filled up, and
within a year it numbered 12 companies with a total strength
of about 1,800 men. On the 26th August, 1634, the terrible
battle of Nordlingen was fought. The loss of life was
dreadful ; and of our regiment, out of its 1,800 men, scarcely
sufficient were left to form one company. Of the whole
Scots Brigade not more than 200 men came out of the
sanguinary conflid.

After the battle of Xordlingen, the regiment as a separate
cor|)s, ceased to exist : and the one company to which it had
been reduced was placed, with the remnants of the other
Scottish regiments, under the command of Duke Bernard of
.Saxe Weimar. In the following year an arrangement was
come to between .Sweden and France, by which the Scottish
troops were taken into the pay of the latter country. Sir

226 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

John Hepburn, when he resigned his commission in the
Swedish service,* entered that of France, and it was under him
(to many of them their old leader) that these troops were to
serve. A new regiment was organised and named after its
commander, h Regiment d Hebron -Hepburn's Regiment.
It represented in its ranks many corps ; the remnant of
Hepburn's own old regiment, the one remaining company of
Mackay's Highlanders, all the other Scottish regiments of
Gustavus, and the Scottish Archer Ouards of the French Kings.
Probably it was the latter circumstance that led the King of
France to order that it should take precedence of all other
regiments in his service. Hepburn was killed at the battle of
Saverne in 1636, and the regiment then became known as
U Regiment de Douglas^ from the name of its new colonel.
It bore this designation till 1678, when it was incorporated in
the British army as Dumbarton's Regiment^ after its next
colonel. In 1684 it was designated the Royal Regiment^ and
is now known as the Royal Scots. It is probably the
oldest regiment in Europe, and takes precedence of all
other regiments of the line in the British army. As the " one
remaining company" of Mackay's regiment formed a part of /^
Regiment cT Hebron^ when it was made up in 1635, ^ claim
that our regiment is now represented by the Royal Scots. f

From first to last Lord Reay sent over to " the German
wars" upwards of 10,000 men, and as Munro expressed it.

* He had qiuirrelled with the King- on some relig-ious question.
t This regiment has had the following titles : —

Le Regiment d' Hebron, ... ... ... ... 1633 1636.

Le Regiment de Douglas, ... 1636 — 1678.

Dumbarton's Regiment, 1678 — 1684.

THE REGIMENTS. 227

" our noble colonell did engage his estates and adventure his
person," not with a sordid view of gain, but "for the good cause/'
To meet the debts he had thus contracted he was obliged to
sell his lands in Ross-shire and Caithness, then his hereditary
sheriffship of Strathnaver (this to the Crown for ^1000), and
last and saddest of all, what was the pride of the Mackay
country the beautiful and fertile district of Strathnaver.

II.— FEXCIBLE REGIMENTS.

Folk of these regiments were raised in the county, and finer
bodies of men were never brought together in any part of
the United Kingdom. Three bore the title "Sutherland''
Fencibles, and the other was designated the "Reay"
Fencibles. The services of all the Fencible regiments were
restricted to militarv duty in Creat Britain and Ireland.

Thk Si'THEKLANi) Fenciules.

1. The 1st Sutherland Fenchji.e Re(;iment was
raised in 1759. William, Earl of Sutherland, was Colonel,
and the Hon. Hugh Mackay, son of I^rd Reay, Lieutenant-

Thc Koval Rojfinionl, ... ... ... ... ... 1684 — 1751.

isi or The Royal Rej^iinent, ... ... 1751 -i8ij.

I si or Tlio Royal Scots, ... ... ... ... 1812 1821.

1st or The Royal Regiment, ... ... ... ... 1821 1871.

1st or The Royal Scots, ... ... 187 1 — 1881.

The Lothian Regiment — The Royal Scots, 188 1 —

230 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

General Stewart in his " Sketches " gave currency to an
error when he stated there were " 104 William Mackays in
this regiment . . . and 17 in one company." The
Muster-Roll shows that there were in all 211 Mackays,
including 7 officers, in the regiment ; and out of this number
16 only had the Christian name William. With a strength
of 1084 men of all ranks, the leading names were as follows:
Mackay, 211; Sutherland, 128; Murray, 42; Ross, 34;
Macleod, 29 ; Macdonald, 29 ; Munro, 28. The clan names
in the ist and 2nd Regiments were in almost identical
proportions.

The Reay Fencibles.

The Royal \\'arrant for raising this regiment was dated
24th October, 1794. Colonel Mackay Hugh Baillie, a
military officer of note and experience, and a near kinsman
of Hugh, Lord Reay, the then chief of the Mackays, was
selected to command the regiment, and (ieorge Mackay of
Handa (afterwards designated of Bighouse) was appointed
Lieutenant Colonel. The strength of the regiment was
fixed at 800 men, and a few weeks sufficed to obtain the
required number. When placed on the Establishment (i8th
June, 1795) it consisted of 46 officers and 754 non-
commissioned officers and men, and of these 1 1 officers and
209 rank and file were Mackays, while 381 had the honour-
able Gaelic prefix " Mac " to their names. The uniform of
the regiment was similar to that of the 42nd. Scarlet coat
with dark blue facings and silver lace, and kilt of Mackay
tartan.

THE RKGIMENTS. 2.3 1

The regiment was inspected at Fort (ieorge in March
1795, ami after fxdug drilled, uniformed, and armed, was
ordered to Ireland, where the steady conduct and soldierly
bearing of the men soon attracted the notice of (ienerals
I^ke and Nugent, commanding in that country. The
service of the regiment, which had been stationed in Belfast
and neighbourhood, was of an uneventful and routine
character until 1798, when the rebellion broke out and
assumed formidable proportions. The object of the rising
was to bring about the separation of Ireland from Britain,
and for this purpose the conspirators had been promised
substantial aid from France. A day had been fixed when
Ireland was to rise in arms, but the scheme had been made
known to the (Government, and many of the leaders were
arrested. Those who escaped determined that a general
insurrection should take i)lace, and the 23rd of May was
fixed upon for that event. It was under these circumstances
that the Reays were moved from Belfast to Cavan, and
then to Dublin. The battle of Tara-hill was fought on the
26th of May, 1798. In this engagement the rebels had a
force of about 4000 men, while the ( Government had only
the Reays, less than 800 strong, and two troops of yeomanry.
The rebels were well posted on the top of the hill, protected
by old walls and other shelter, which gave them a great
advantage, but the Reays marched boldly on and gradually
fought their way uj), when, reaching the top, notwithstanding
the great odds against them, they furiously charged the
rebels with the bayonet, tumbling them over at every stroke,
and eventually dispersed and chased them off the hill. The
yeomanry then charged the retreating masses, who fled panic
stricken and in disorder. The loss of the Reays was 30

232 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

killed and a considerable number wounded. The rebels
had about 500 killed, besides many wounded. It was a
complete victory, and the battle broke the back of the
rebellion. After this engagement the Reays marched to
Dublin, where they met with a hearty reception from the
citizens

But the troubles were not quite ended. On the 22nd
August a French force of about 1,300 men landed at Killala.
(General I^ke, hearing of this, hastened with two regiments
of Irish Militia, the Fraser Fencibles, and some dragoons, to
resist the advance. The Reays at the same time were ordered
to Tuam, to keep in check the rebels in the west. General
Lake encountered the Frenchmen near Castlebar. The French
began the attack and soon threw the Militia into disorder,
and they, in retiring, threw the Frasers into disorder, so that the
whole gave way, and the French soldiers, still advancing, I^ke
was forced to retire. Overwhelmed with grief at the unsteady
and cowardly conduc t of the militia (many of whom went
over to the enemy), he was frequently heard to exclaim, ** If
I had my brave and honest Reays with me, this would not
have happened." The Irish insurgents and their French
auxiliaries had everything in their own hands for a few days,
and they began an indiscriminate slaughter of the Protestants
and Loyalists of Castlebar. But I^ke, who had fallen back
on Tuam, had re-formed his army, and this done, he deter-
mined to attack the Frenchmen. On this occasion he took
his " honest Reays " with him. After four days march his
advance troops got up to and skirmished with the French,
bringing them to a halt. General I^ike soon afterwards
appeared with the troops under his immediate command, and
then all resistance on the part of the Frenchmen ceased :

ll.OUKS OF THK KKaV KKNCIBLICS.

234 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

they laid down their arms and surrendered unconditionally ;
and the Reays had the honour of conducting them as
prisoners of war to Dublin. Few Irish were taken, for when
they saw the P'renchmen laying down their arms, they threw
their own away and fled to the hills. This practically ended
the rebellion, and comi)arative tran(iuility was restored to
Ireland. The Reays were afterwards quartered in various
towns for about four years ; and in 1802 the regiment was
ordered home to Scotland. It embarked at Belfast on the
loth September, and landing at Stranraer marched to Stirling,
where, on the 26th of that month, General Baillie gave his
parting address to the officers and men, paying high compli-
ments to both, for their loyalty, good discipline, and
distinguished gallantry. The regiment was disbanded on the
13th October, 1802.

One of the sergeants of the Reays became famous among
"The Men" of Sutherland. This was Joseph Mackay. He
served with the regiment until it was disbanded, and after-
wards entered the 1st Foot or Royal Scots, and got a
commission as Ensign. He was wounded at Waterloo, and
returning to his native parish, devoted the remainder of his
life — about 40 years — to evangelistic work in the Highlands.
Many stories are told of his piety and benevolence : and the
few old people left in the Reay country still speak with the
greatest reverence of Ensign Joseph.

I cannot do better, in bringing this short stor^'of the Reay
Fencibles to an end, than (juote what Mr. Mackay,
Hereford, says in the closing part of his account of the
services of the regiment : "They were an honour to their
race and to their country, descendants of men who always
bravely held their own, and defended their territory against

THE REGIMKNTS. 235

great odds . . and who remained ever loyal to their
Sovereigns, and repeatedly performed great services to the
State. . . . They produced heroes and warriors .
whose fame will remain in the story of their country, and on
the Continent of Euroi)e. In Ireland, as has been shown,
they exhibited many proofs of the valour of their race, and
eminently manifested that they were the genuine sons of the
valiant Mackavs of the North."

III.— Thk 93rd or SUTHERLAND HIGHLANDERS.*

The 93rd or Sutherland Highlanders, now known a§ the
Second Battalion Princess Louise's Argyll and Sutherland
Highlanders, was, at one time, considered the most High-
land of the Highland regiments. It was raised on a "Letter
of Service" granted in May, 1800, to General William
Wemyss of U'emyss, (the same who had commanded the
2nd and 3rd regiments of Sutherland Fencibles) and was
at first known as " General Wemyss' Regiment of Infantry,"
because no number had been assigned to it. The strength
was fixed at 600 men, but was augmented to 1000, with

* I am largely indebted to General Sir John Ewart's interesting
volumes *'The Story of a Soldier's Life" for several of the
incidents mentioned in this sketch. The various histories of the
93rd have also been consulted, and I have made free use of
Colonel Percy Grove's volume, which is the most recently pub<.
lishcd account of the reeiment.

In i8(i it ininilnjri^d io4g officers
1014 were Stols, 18 Knglish, and 17
Irish.

A strikin|r [>cculianly in the raising of ihis reginiern, was,
ihat the original levy was made by a species of consrription,
and not liy ihe ordinary mude of recruiting. It was in this

PLACE AT SV

way ; A census having been laken of llie population on the
estates of the Countess of Sutherland, her apents re<iuested
that a certain ])roportion of the able bodied sons of the
tenants .should join the rank.s. as a test of their duty to the
chief and to the Sovereign. The appeal was »ell responded
[o, and in a few months the regiment was comjjleted.

THE RKGIMENTS. 237

Naturally some of the parents grumbled at the taking away
of their sons, but the young men themselves never seem to
have ([uestioned the right thus assumed by their chief over
their military services. The levy was made up to a con-
siderable extent of men who had served in the 3rd Sutherland
Fencibles, which had been disbanded about two years
previously, and many of the men, as well as the non-
commissioned officers, were the sons of highly respectable
farmers. The officers were mostly well known gentlemen
connected with Sutherland and the adjacent counties. The
whole body of 600 men, without a single absentee, assembled
in Inverness in the Month of August, and during their stay
in the Highland capital they were so orderly and well
behaved that no place of confinement was recjuired in
connection with the regiment. In Sej)tember it received its
number, and was entered in the Army List as the 93rd. In
this month it also embarked at Fort (ieorge for (luernsey,
where it was for the first time armed and fully e(|uipped.
It remained in (iuernsey till September 1802, and was then
ordered to Scotland to be reduced : but in ( onsecjuence of
the renewal of war with France, the order for reduction was
countermanded, and instead of being disbanded, the regi-
ment was sent to Aberdeen. In February 1803 it was
removed to Ireland, and in August 1805, it embarked at
Cork, for the (^ape of (lood Hope. It formed with the
71st and 72nd regiments, the Highland Brigade which was
under the command of Brigadier (leneral Ferguson.

In landing at Table Bay the 93rd lost 35 men by the
u[)sctting of a boat in the surf. Its first engagement was in
the battle of I>lue Mountains. This was a decisive victory,
for the enemy were completely routed with a loss of u[)wards

238 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

of 600 in killed and wounded. The British loss was 16 killed
and 191 wounded: of this number the 93rd had 2 men killed
and 5 officers and 53 men wounded. The regiment remained
8 years at the Cape, when to the general regret of the colony,
it embarked in 18 14 for England, and arrived at Plymouth on
the 15th August. Of the 1018 non-commissioned officers
and men who disembarked, 977 were Scots. During all the
time the regiment was at the Cape, " the men conducted
themselves in so sedate and orderly a fashion that
severe punishment was unnecessary, and so rare was the
commission of crime that 1 2 and even 1 5 months have been
known to elapse without a single court martial being assembled
for the trial of any soldier of the 93rd."

It had not been many weeks at home until it was again
ordered on foreign service, and on the T6th September it
sailed for North America, the United States, at that time,
being unfortunately at war with Great Britain. The expedi-
dition, of which they formed a part, had for its object the
reduction of New Orleans. This was a disastrous and grossly
mismanaged undertaking ; and "the gallant 93rd lost a larger
number of officers and men in it, in a few hours, than it did
throughout the whole of the Indian Mutiny campaign," in
which it had probably hotter work to do than ever fell to the
lot of any single regiment. The siege of New Orleans, as it
was called, was a miserable failure, not on the part of the
troops, but through the incapacity or want of understanding
of the general officers; and it is sad to think that neither gain
nor glory resulted from the dreadful carnage. One illustra-
tion will suffice. "The 93rd, led by Lieut. -Colonel Dale (he
was killed in the engagement), were advancing in close
column towards the centre of the enemy's line, exposed to a

THE REGIMENTS. 239

tremendous fire of grape and musketry, when within 100
yards of the breastwork they were ordered to a halt In this
miserable position they had to stand, being neither allowed
to advance nor retire . . while they were being mowed
down by the murderous artillery and rifle balls " (ieneral
I^imbert at last ordered the regiment to retire, but only a
fragment of the 93rd was left, for 6 officers and 1 20 men
had been killed (including those who died of their wounds
the following day) ; and 12 officers and 363 men wounded.

After this disastrous action it was decided to abandon any
further attempts on New Orleans. Colonel Groves, in his
History of the Regiment, says, *• the splendid courage and
steadiness of the 93rd Highlanders on the 8th January, 1815,
elicited the admiration, not only of their fellow soldiers, but
of the enemy : indeed, had all the regiments exhibited
similar devotion and discipline. New Orleans might never
have been numbered among IJritish defeats.'*

Peace being established between Oreat Britain and the
United States, the troops were shortly afterwards ordered to
embark and sail for England. The fragment which was left
of the 93rd arrived at Spithead on the 15th May, 1815, but

* This great disaster was occasioned by t*lie culpable neglect
of the Lieut-Colonel of the 44th regiment, to carry out instructions
which he had received on the previous night, to take his men
forward witii scaling ladders, for an assault which was intended
to be made on the enemy's works. The t)3rd had been selected
for this perilous task. When atlvancing at daybreak, and near
the breast work, it was discmiMvd that there were no l.'idders,
the regiment was cilled li> a h;ill. This made their presence
known to the enemy, who poured merciless showers of grape and
ritle balls upon the almost defenceless Highlanders, and literally
mowed them down, as slated above.

240 SirTHKkl.ANl) AND THK RKAY COUNTRY.

being in too weak a state to take part in the stirring events
on the Continent, it was ordered to Ireland.

A second battahon had been added in 18 13. In 1814 it
embarked for Xewfoundland, under command of Wm
Wemvss, a son of (leneral VVemvss. After a httle over a
year's service, the battalion returned home, and on the 24th
December, 1815, was disbanded at Sunderland, when 30
sergeants, 23 corporals, 1 1 drummers, and 303 privates were
drafted to the first battalion.

The 93rd did not take j)art in any event of importance
for many years. From Ireland it was sent to the West Indies
in 1823, and after ten yeais returned to England. In 1838
it was sent to C'anada, and remained in that colony about ten
years. Between 1844 and 1848 it was stationed in Montreal
and Quebec, and I have heard old people, in both towns, speak
most highly of the regiment, the exemplary conduct of the
men being warmly praised. On the 27th July, 1848, it
embarked at Quebec for Leith, where it landed on the 31st
of August, and was at once sent to Stirling. From Stirling
it was removed to Edinburgh, where it was stationed one
year, then in (Glasgow one year, and in 1852 it was sent to
England.

In 1854, being then stationed in Plymouth, the regiment
received notice, in conse(|uen( e of the threatening aspect of
affairs in the East, to hold itself in readiness to embark on
active service It was then on the peace establishment, and
in order to bring it up to its proper strength, volunteers were
called for, when 1 70 fine seasoned soldiers from the 42nd
and 79th responded to the call. 'I'he regiment sailed for
Malta on the 22nd February, and landed on the 8th of March.
The total strength which embarked was 27 officers and 911

THK RKdIMKNTS. 24 1

non-comniissionc'd orticers and men. The news of the
declaration of war with Russia reached Malta on the 4th of
April, and on the 6th the 93rd sailed for Turkey.

The services of the 93rd chiring the Crimean war* and
Indian mutiny are of sucli recent occurrence, that I shall not
attempt to give an account of these struggles, but merely
narrate a few incidents in whi(*h the regiment took a promi
nent part.

On the i4lh September, 1854, the 93rd landed in the
Oimea. The 42nd, 79th, and 93rd regiments had been
formed into the Highland Hrigade, the command of which
was given to Sir Colin Campbell (afterwards Lord Clyde).
Six days after landing, the battle of the Alma was fought.
'I'he Highland IJrigade struck terror into the hearts of the
Russians. 'I'o their superstitious eyes '' the strange uniforms

* Tlu* Crinuvui \v;ir bcg'aii in this way. A Russian army havinjc
entered Turkey and attacked some of the Provinces, Cireat Britain
and France entered into an alliiince to defend the territory of the
Sultan, and declared war against Russia. The allies were after-
wards joined by Sardinia. War was declared on the j8th March,
1854 ; the strujarji^le lasted about two years ; and peace was
proclaimed on J9th April, 1856. The vastness of the undertaking
was not at first realised, and Cireat Hritain beg^t'in by calling' out
an army of 10,000 men for the strug-jfle ; but this number was soon
fv>und to be far short o( what would be needed, and it had to
be aujcmented from time to time, until about 100,000 men were
embodied, of which number 70,000 were sent to the Crimea. The
Hritish losses durinjf the campaign were 3,53.1 killed or died of
their wounds, and 15,782 who succumbed to disease, making' a
total loss of life of 19,134.

France sent 309,268 men, and lost 82,133 : while the Russian
loss was stated to be about 500,000, of whom 90,000 lay buried on
the ensanguined heights of Sebastopol.

242 suthkrland and the reav countrv.

of those bare-kneed troops seemed . terrible ; their

white waving sporrans were taken for the heads of low horses,
and they cried to each other that the angel of death had
departed, and that the demon of death had come." In this
engagement the 93rd had i officer and 7 rank and file killed,
and 44 rank and file wounded.

The conduct of the 93rd at Balaclava has received universal
praise. This was just a month after the battle of the Alma.
The regiment was formed in line -that is, front and rear
rank. " I would not even form them four deep," said Sir
Colin Campbell, when remonstrated with for not placing them
so as to be able to throw themselves into a square, when the
Russian cavalry was galloping towards them. There they
stood, " that thin red line, tipped with steel," awaiting the
onslaught of the Russian dragoons, the ground trembling
beneath their horses' feet, and gathering strength at every
stride. The Highlanders stood cool as if on parade, until
their foes were within 600 yards, then down on their knees
dropped the front rank, and delivered a steady volley. But the
distance was too great, and though a few saddles were
emptied, the Russians pressed forward unchecked. On they
rode till scarcely 200 yards separated them from the intrepid
Highlanders; then the rear-rank men brought their rifles to
the present, and over the heads of their comrades poured a
withering fire into the enemy's masses. Shaken to their very
centre, the Russian dragoons fell back ; but they made one
more bid for victory, and encouraged by their leaders, en-
deavoured to turn the Highlanders' right flank. But they were
checkmated by the Grenadier company, which received them
with such a volley that they wheeled about and rushed off to
seek the shelter of iheir guns. The 93rd is the only Infantry

244 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRV.

regiment in the British army which has the word "Balaclava "
on its colours.

During the siege of Sebastopol the 93rd had its full share
of dangerous and harassing duties. On the 8th September,
1855, the second grand assault was made, but the stronghold
was not taken. The Highland Brigade was then moved
forward to occupy the advanced trenches, so as to be ready
if the enemy should make a sortie. About midnight, when
everything was quiet, Lieutenant MacBean left the trenches,
and approaching the Redan was struck with the idea from
the stillness which prevailed, that the Russians had deserted
it. He returned to the trenches, saw Sir Colin Campbell,
and obtained permission to enter, if he could get 2 officers
and 20 men to volunteer to accompany him. He got the
officers and men, and with them entered the Redan, but
finding the work apparently unoccupied, hastened back to Sir
Colin with the news. General Ewart, in his " Story of a
Soldier's Life," gives the following account (he was then a
Major in the 93rd). He did not know what prompted him,
but he determined to follow the little party to the Redan ;
"Just as I arrived they were re-crossing the ditch. . . I at
once stopped two of the 93rd named Peter Mackay* and
John White, and asked if they would mind again entering the

* At the close of the Crimean war, the Emperor of Frtitice
presented a few miUtary medals to each British regiment which had
taken part in the campaign. These medals were exclusively for
non-commissioned officers or privates, the only exception being
some general officer who had held some special command. [The
Duke of Cambridge is the only British officer to whom it was
granted by the Emperor.] To the 93rd nine medals were given,
and it was a great honour to be selected to be one of the recipients

THE RKC.IMKNTS. 245

Redan. They said " No," so they descended the ditch, and
scrambled up the other side. All was perfectly quiet, but I
could not help thinking that possibly some trap was being
laid, so proceeded cautiously to search whether any Russians
were lying in ambush . . but the Redan appeared to be
untenanted." On returning to the advanced trench Major
Ewart at one e went to Sir Colin Campbell, who was glad to
receive a confirmation of the report which had been made to
him by Maclk'an. While they were talking, an Engineer
officer came up and recjuested that, as the Redan had been
found deserted, it might be immediately occupied by the
Highlanders. lUit this the old general declined ; **and the
wisdom of his refusing was shortly afterwards made manifest
by a tremendous explosion taking place in the work." A trap
had been laid by the Russians. Had the place been occupied
probably all within would have been killed. The evacuation
of the Redan by the Russians rendered any further assault
unnecessary. Sebastopol was in possession of the allies, and
the war was practically at an end.

While waiting at Varna and Aladja, in July and August,
for orders, cholera, fever, and dysentry raged in the camp,
and large numbers of soldiers died, -416 men of the 93rd
having been in the regimental hospital, and in the Crimea,

Private Peter Mackay, above-mentioned, was awarded one — ** for
bravery, and for being- the first man to enter the Redan on the
night of the 8th September, 1855." The other soldiers of the
regiment, who, for special acts of bravery, were selected for
the honour, were : Colour-Sergeant Alexander Knox, Sergeant
Archibald Crabtree, Sergeant James Kiddie, Lance-Corporal
William Mackenzie ; and Privates John Leslie, John Forbes,
James Davidson, and James Cobb,

246 SUTHERLAND AND THK RKAY COUNTRY.

during the first winter, the regiment suffered severely.
" Only those who lived through those dreary days," wrote
Dr. Munro, ''know what it was to he without proper
shelter and clothing, and without sufficient food and fuel,
while cold keen winds blew, and rain and snoA beat down
upon the earth, converting it into a sea of mud, through
which we had to wade with half shod feet. . . . The
tents afforded poor i)rotection against the [)iercing cold, the
boi.sterous wind, and the rain : and our clothes, of which at
one time we had not even a change, became so worn and
filthy" that it was almost imi)ossil3le to wear them. Until
the 30th November many officers and men had only the
clothes they had on when they landed on the T4th September.
The daily dole of salt beef and pork was left untasted,
because the men would not, or could not eat, or because
they had no fuel, or did not know how to cook so as to
make the food palatable. . . The conse(iuence was that
numbers of them became ill and many died of dysentry.
It was not till February, 1855, that anything was done to
remedy this miserable state of affLiirs. The men were then
hutted, and the health of the regiment materially improved.
The second winter the health of the men was good, except-
ing for a short time in December, when cholera reappeared.
But in March, 1856, peace was proclaimed, and on the i6th
June the 93rd embarked for I'.ngland. The regiment
landed at Portsmouth on the 15th July, and proceeded to
Aldershot, where, on the following day it was reviewed by
Her Majesty. It was then moved to Dover, and was joined
there by the depots from Malta and Dundee.

The red doublets of the pipers were at this time
exchanged for green.

THK RK(;iMENTS. 247

On the 31st January, 1857, the regiment was ordered to
prepare for immediate embarkation for India, and as its
strength had just been reduced to a peaee footing, volunteers
were called for from the 42nd, 72nd, 79th, and 92nd
regiments: — 201 men promptly responded. Shortly before
embarkation it was notified that the destination of the
regiment had been changed to China, but when the trans*
ports arrived at the Cape of ( iood Hope, they were directed
to sail for Calcutta, in consequence of a mutiny in the
Bengal army. The ships reached (Calcutta on the 20th and
26th September, and no time was lost in sending on the
regiment in detachments to Cawnpore. The detachment
which was under the command of Major Ewart was the first
division of the regiment to reach Cawnpore. Here is what
he wrote after visiting the scene of the massacre and seeing
some of the proofs of the atrocities which the rebels had
committed, " As 1 looked around 1 could almost have cried
with rage, and when I left the house where this frightful
crime of unsurpassed brutality had been committed, 1 felt
that I had become a changed man. All feelings of mercy
or consideration for the mutineers had left me. I was no
longer a Christian, and all I wanted was revenge. In the
Crimea 1 had never wished to kill a Russian, or even tried
to, but now my one idea was to kill every rebel I should
come across."

On the loth November, all the detachments of the
regiment had arrived in the neighbourhood of Lucknow, Sir
Colin Campbell had assumed the command on the previous
day, and on the nth he inspected the entire force (about
4,000 men), which had been drawn ui) on the i)lains near the
Alum-bagh. Addressing the 93rd he said, " Ninety-third !

248 SUTHRRLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRY.

We are about to advance to relieve our countrymen and
countrywomen besieged in the Residency of Lucknow by
the rebel army. It will be a duty of danger and difficulty,
but I rely upon you!" To this laconic speech the High-
landers replied with a loud cheer, which was taken uj) by the
other regiments, as the brave old general rode along the line.
Every man was actuated by the same feeling, namely -a
determination to avenge Cawni)ore, and resc ue the women and
children in Lucknow. On the 14th the army began its
approach. The 93rd was the leading regiment in the main
column. A force of rebels had taken up a position near a
village to the south of Lucknow, l)ut these having been
driven off, the 93rd passed into an open si)ace directly opposite
the Secunder-bagh a palace, with a high-walled loop-holed
enclosure, about 150 yards scjuare. A breach having been
made in the walls, the assault was begun l)y the 93rd,
supported by the 4th Punjab Rifles, and detachments of
other regiments. " Never," said Sir Colin in his despatch,
"was there a bolder feat of arms." The greater part of the
93rd dashed straight at the breach. It was an exciting attack.
On rushed side by side in generous rivalry, the Sikh and the
Highlander, the latter straining every nerve in the race, led
gallantly by their officers. The opening of the breach was
so small that only one man could enter at a time, but a few
having gained entrance, they kept the enemy at bay until a
considerable number of Highlanders and Sikhs had pushed
in, and then commenced what was probably the sternest and
bloodiest struggle of the whole campaign. The Sepoys
made a stubborn resistance, and fought with the courage of
despair, for they knew that no mercy would be shown to
them. The carnage was dreadful, over 2000 Sepoys having

THK RKCIMENTS. 249

been slain. The 93rd had in this eventful struggle 2 officers
and 23 men killed, and 7 officers and 61 men wounded.
Many of the latter died of their wounds, and most of the
others were permanently disabled. 'I'hat evening an effort
was made to rapture the Shah Xujjiff. Ikigadier Hope,
with about 50 men, guided by Sergeant Paton crept cau-
tiously through some brushwood to a part of the wall which
the Sergeant had discovered, so injured, that he thought an
entrance could be effected. One man was pushed through
the hole, and seeing none of the enemy near, several of the
others scrambled up and stood on the wall. Ikigadier Hope
and his small party reached the main gate almost unopposed,
then threw it o|kmi, and in rushed the 93rd just in time to
see the rebels in their white dresses gliding away in the
darkness of the night. Thus ended the desperate struggle
of the dav, and the relief of the Residencv was ensured.
A deep silence now reigned over the entire |H)sition, and
the little army, weary and exhausted by its mighty efforts,
lay uj)on the hard won battle-ground to rest, and if |K)ssil)le
to sleep.

Manv a heroic deed was done that dav. Kwart, Hurr-
oughs, Stewart, MacHean and other offic ers were ever foremost
in the fray, setting an example of dauntless courage to their
men, although no exam|)le was needed. Lieutenant-Colonel
Ewart slew eight rebels with his own hand, and captured a
< olour, after receiving two sword-cuts on the right arm and
hand. The colour belonged to the 2nd Loodiana regiment,
the only Sikh corps which had mutinied. Private David
Mackay, of the Orenadier (Company, captured the other
colour of this corps, and received the Victoria Cross for his
gallantf)' Eight days afterwards (at C^awnpore), Lieutenant-

250 SUTHERLAND AND THK RKAY COUNTRY.

Colonel Ewart was struck by a cannon shot on the left elbow.
"I was aware," he wrote, "that I had been struck violently
on the left side, but did not know what had actually taken
place until 1 looked down and saw the bleeding stump. . . .
The blow did not knock me down, nor did I feel any
inclination to fall, but a soldier of the 93rd, named Peter
Mackay, (the same man who had been with me in the
Redan, on the night of the 8th September, 1855), ran up at
once and tied his handkerchief tightly round the stump."

Although Luck now was relieved there was still much to
be done. The troops under Sir Colin Campbell and those
in the Residency, had, as it were, shaken hands, but the
difficult task remained of getting the women and children out,
without risking the lives of any of those that still remained.
The Residency was evacuated during the night of the 22nd
(November), the women and children were rescued, and the
regiment moved to the Alum-bagh, and encamped in its old
position. Sir Colin decided to convey the women and
children and the wounded to Cawnpore, and selected the
93rd to be the escort. They started from the Alum-bagh on
the 27th. A few hours after setting out news reached Sir
Colin that the mutineers of the Gwalior contingent, in great
force, were attacking General Windham at Cawnpore. Sir
Colin immediately decided (though encumbered with the
women and children and the sick) to push on with all possible
speed, and by a forced march of about 40 miles, reached the
Bridge of Boats, opposite Cawnpore, the following evening.
Early the next morning, by the artillery distracting the
attention of the enemy, the 93rd were enabled to get across
the bridge, and the other troops followed. The rebels
numbered fully 20,000 men, and had about 40 guns ; they

THK REC.IMENTS. 25 I

kept up a continued fire^ but did not venture on an attack.
On the 3rd December the women and children, and a great
number of the wounded, were sent off under a strong escort
to Allahabad, and Sir C^olin, no longer hampered by these
defenceless ones determined to attack the enemy. On the
6th, what is known as the battle of Cawnpore was fought.
The rebels were completely defeated, and retreated during
the night, but they were (juickly pursued and entirely
dispersed, leaving a large number of killed and wounded,
besides losing all their guns, ammunition, and baggage. In
this engagement the 93rd greatly distinguished itself.

The British army was now employed in clearing the district
around Lucknow of the rebels. Uy the end of February,
1858, the troops destined for the second siege of Lucknow
were collected. On the 2nd of March a movement was
made, and on the 9th the Martiniere was carried by the 42nd
and 93rd. On the i ith the 93rd was selected to storm the
Kaiser-bagh. The assault was successful, but the regiment
had two officers and 13 men killed, and two officers and 45
men wounded. Lieut. MacHean and Pipe-Major MacLeod
particularly distinguished themselves during the assault.
Mac Bean killed 1 1 rebels with his own hand, while the Pipe-
Major was one of the first to get through the breach, and
when through struck up the regimental gathering, and con-
tinued playing during the lighting, in places where he was
l)erfectly exposed. The British had now gained possession
of Lucknow, and there was no further fighting there after the
27th. During the operations against the city no regiment was
more frecjuently employed, or suffered more severely than the
Sutherland Highlanders,

252 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

On the 6th April the 93rd was brigaded with the 42nd
and 79th under Adrian Hope. At the unsuccessful attack on
Fort Rooyah on the 16th, Hope was killed, to the great
sorrow, not of the 93rd only, but of the whole Highland
Brigade. The regiment was subsequently j)resent at the
battle of Bareilly, and other minor affairs, and fully maintained
the glorious reputation it had earned at Lucknow. In Feb-
ruary, 1859, the mutiny having been suppressed, the 93rd
was sent to a station in the Himalayas. During the campaign,
between September 30, 1857, and December, 31, 1859, the
regiment lost in killed and died of wounds, 5 officers and 78
men, and by disease 97 men, and there weie invalided and
sent to England i officer and 83 men. I have not been able
to ascertain the actual number wounded.

The regiment made an unusually long stay in India, for it
did not return to its native shores until March 25, 1870, when
it arrived at Leith. After eight years home service it sailed
for Gibraltar, where it was quartered until April, 188 1. On
the introduction of the " territorial system " into the British
army, when numerical titles were abolished, the 93rd was
linked with the 91st, and became the second battalion of the
Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. In 1892 the battalion
again proceeded on foreign service, and is now stationed at
Dalhousie in Bengal.

Although the "93rd" at present can only be said to have
a fwminal connection with the county after which it is named
(for since the time of the Crimean war and the Indian
mutiny, few Sutherlandshire men have been in the regiment),
it is to be hoped that some efforts may be made by the
military authorities to get young men from the county to join
its ranks, so that it may be what its name implies, the

THK RKCIIMENTS. 253

Sutherland Hii^hlattders ; for, strange as it may appear, the
regiment^ under the territorial system, is not allmved to recruit
in Suther/andshire !

" During the 90 odd years of their existence the
Sutherland Highlanders have been remarkable for their
gallantry in the field and exix^llent discipline in (juarters, the
.kindliest feeling has ever existed between officers and men,
and though the regiment no longer bears its original designa-
tion, it is still animated by the same spirit which was so
consj)icuous in the 'auld 93rd.

1 jj

While the 93rd was stationed in Edinburgh in 1850, the
regiment was reviewed in presence of Jung Hahadour, the
l*rime Minister of Nepaul, who was then on a mission to
(Ireat Britain. He was delighted with the regiment, esjxicially
with the pipers, and begged to be allowed to purchase the
latter to take with him to India. He was disappointed that
his recjuest c:ould not be entertained, but the reason being
explained to him, he was satisfied. About a do/en years
later (after the Indian Mutiny), he, however, got a piper who
had obtained his discharge from one of the Highland
regiments. I am not certain, however, whether from the 93rd
or 78th, but from what 1 was told by the Residency surgeon,
who was then at Xepaul, 1 am [)retly sure he was a 93rd man.

Hut Henry Mackay, who was a Pipe-Major of the 93rd,
and served in the Oimea and the Indian mutiny, on obtaining
his discharge from the regiment, was taken into the service of
one of the Indian princes (the Maharajah of Puttiala), and
held (juite a lucrative appointment. He was treated with
great liberality, and the Maharajah bestowed a rank upon him
ecpial to that of Colonel of a regiment. Mackay trained 14

254 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

pipers and a corresponding number of drummers. The
Maharajah wished to have the pipers dressed in the kilt, but
Mackay (who could not brook the idea of Indians wearing
the Highland dress) insisted on trews, and carried his point.
They were dressed in green cloth tunics and 93rd tartan trews.

At a conference held at Umballa in 1869, the Maharajah
attended with a strong force. The official report of the
conference referred to this force as follows : " In equipment
and drill it is very fair indeed. It is drilled by a man named
Mackay, formerly a piper in the 93rd Highlanders. His
work does him credit. The pipers played uncommonly well."

After being about six years in the Maharajah^s sen^ice,
Mackay's health broke down, and he was compelled, greatly
to his own regret, and of the Maharajah also, to leave India.
He returned to Scotland, and died in Aberdeen on 22nd
March, 1893.

Seven Victoria Crosses were won by the 93rd during the
Indian Mutiny Campaign, and the regiment received the
Royal Authority to add " Lucknow " to the battle honours
already emblazoned on its colours. The recipients of the
Victoria Cross were :

Captain William George Drum mono Stewart, for
distinguished gallantry at Lucknow, i6th
November, 1857.
Lieutenant and Adjutant MacBean, for distinguished
personal bravery in killing with his own hand
1 1 rebels in the main breach of the Hegum-bagh,
nth March, 1858.

THK REC.IMENTS. 255

Colour-Sergeant James Munro, for devoted gallantry in
the Secunder-bagh, in having promptly rushed
to the rescue of Captain E. Welsh, when
wounded and in danger of his life, whom he
carried to a place of comparative safety, to
which place the Sergeant was brought in shortly
afterwards dangerously wounded, i6th Novem-
ber, 1857.

Sergeant J. Patox, for distinguished personal gallantry at
Lucknow, 1 6th November, 1857.

I^nce-Corporal John Dunlkv, for being the first man of
the regiment, who, on i6th November, 1857,
entered one of the breaches in the Secunder-
bagh with Captain Burroughs, whom he most
gallantly supported against superior numbers.

Private David Mackav, for great personal gallantry in
capturing an enemy's colour after a most
obstinate resistance, at the Secunder-bagh on
1 6th November, 1857, Mackay was afterwards
severely wounded at the capture of the Shah-
Nujjiff.

Private Peter Crant, for great personal gallantry at the
Secunder-bagh, i6th November, 1857.

256 SUTHERr.AND AND THE REAY COUNTRY

The following officers were promoted from the ranks
of the 93rd. There may have been others, but
I have not been able to trace them.

General William MacBean, V.C. Enlisted in 1835 ;
promoted to rank of Ensign, nth August,
1854. Within 20 years thereafter he became
Lieut.-Colonel commanding the regiment, and
commanded it 4 years. Retired as Honorary
Major-General, i6th February, 1878, and died
about four months afterwards,

Lieut.-Colonel John Jovner. Promoted as Quarter
Master, 6th July, 1855, and appointed Pay-
master, 29th May, 1863. Retired with rank of
Lieut.-Colonel.

Major William Macdonald. Enlisted in 181 2 ; pro-
moted to rank of Ensign, and appointed
Adjutant 23rd August, 1827 ; was Adjutant 21
years; promoted as Captain, 3rd December,
1847, ^"^ retired with rank of Major, 1 ith June,
1852.

Major Harry Macleod. Enlisted in 1848 ; promoted

as Quarter Master, 13th June, 1863. Retired

with rank of Major, 26th December, 1887.

Major Macleod is a recipient of the Ravard

for Distinguished and Meritorious Sennce,

Captain 1 )onali) Sinclair. Promoted as Quarter Master,
22n(l March, 1844, and retired with Honorary
rank of Captain, 6th July, 1855.

THE REGIMENTS. 257

Captain William Morrison. Enlisted in i860 ; pro
moted as Lieutenant in Army Hospital Corps,
17th September, 1879; Captain, i7lh December,
1889, and retired 5th May, 1896.

Captain Sinclair Forbes. Enlisted in 1864 ; appointed
Quarter Master, 27th August, 1884 ; and retired
with rank of Captain, . . , 1895.

Captain William Mack ay. Enlisted in 1864 ; promoted
as Lieutenant in Army Hospital Corps, ist
April, 1876 ; Captain, 1st April, 1886 ; and
retired 2rst March, 1896.

Captain John HREiUibR. Enlisted in i860; appointed
(Quarter Master, 24th September, 1873; Captain,
24th September, 1883 ; and died in Cilasgow,
20th October, 1886.

Lieutenant Rohertson Mackay. Enlisted in 1823.
While a Sergeant was promoted and transferred
as Lieutenant to 5th Fusiliers, on 4th September,
1840, and appointed Adjutant, 8th June, 1843.
He was shot dead by a private of the latter
regiment two months afterwards (on the nth
August). Mackay was a native of Reay. His
brother. Quarter Master Sergeant Adam Mac-
kay, also in the 93rd, served through the
Crimean War, and was offered a Commission,
but declined. The following extract is from
the regimental records of the 5th Fusiliers:

**On the afternoon parade of the iithAug^ust, 1843
(at Birr), a private .... a sanguinary monster in
human shape, fell out of the ranks, asking* the permission of

VOLUNTEERS.

Hv Quarter-Mastkr James Morrison, Golspie.

The County of Sutherland did not lag behind the rest of the
country when, in 1859, the movement for establishing
volunteer, companies for defence against foreign invasion was
so heartily entered upon, for, so early as the 6th June of that
year, a meeting was held within Golspie Inn, " for the purpose
of organising a corps of volunteers for the defence of the
country."

The chair on this occasion was occupied by Mr. Charles
Hood, Inverbrora, and a motion that companies be raised in
the east coast parishes of Dornoch, Golspie, Clyne, and
Kildonan, was unanimously adopted, as was also one that
Lord Stafford (afterwards third Duke of Sutherland) be
respectfully asked to join the volunteers as commandant.
Before the meeting separated the following gentlemen
enrolled themselves, and to them must belong the honour
of being the originators of the volunteer movement in
Sutherland, viz : — Charles Hood, Inverbrora, Brora ; Sidney
Hadwcn, West (iarty. Loth ; Sutherland Murray, Kirkton,
Golspie; William Houstoun, Kintradwell, Brora; M. C.
MacHardy, Accountant, Golspie ; John Mackenzie, Golspie
Mills, Golspie ; John B. Dudgeon, Crakaig, Loth j James
Lindsay, Ironmonger, Golspie ; Major Charles S. Weston,
Golspie ; Robert B. Sangster, Banker, Golspie ; Marcus

'^-^Ac^m ^-J^

P«H

262 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

(iunn, Culgower, Loth ; Donald Gray, Solicitor and Banker,
Golspie ; Dr. R. K. Soutar, Golspie ; George Dudgeon,
Crakaig, Loth ; John Grant, Writer, Golspie ; Hugh
Ferguson, Accountant, Golspie.

Several other general and committee meetings were held
during the summer and autumn of 1859, at which matters
of detail were discussed and progress reported, until at a
meeting of committee on 17th October, it was intimated that
the Lord Lieutenant of the county (His Grace the Duke of
Sutherland) had "accepted the services of the enrolled
company of the Sutherland Rifle Volunteers, called the
" Golspie Company," that he had appointed Major Charles
Samuel Weston (late of the Indian army) Captain of said
company, and that the company numbered 107 men, but
would be restricted to 100 "effectives."

Mr. W. S. Fraser, Dornoch, reported to this meeting that
he had enrolled the Dornoch Company to the number of
126, that he had numerous further applicants, but that a
selection of 100 "effectives " would be made. The meeting
resolved to ask the Lord Lieutenant to offer the services of
the Dornoch Company to Her Majesty, and to nominate a
suitable gentleman for Captain of the same.

At their meeting of ist November the Committee added
to their number Messrs. Charles Hood, Inverbrora, and
George Lawson, Clynelish, who conveyed the pleasing intelli-
gence that a third company was in process of formation at
Brora, and that 60 men had been already enrolled, with every
prospect of increasing the number to 100.

The selection of a suitable uniform appears to have given
very considerable troul)lc, hut ultimately, one consisting of
dark grey tunic and trousers, shako of same colour, with

mmm^^f^ .1^11 ■ ■ I. ■■ I.I ■■■J.-' .^i "^r

264 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

black horse hair plume in front, and brown leather belts, was
adopted. The clothing and accoutrements for the three
companies which had now been raised cost about ;£^i,ooo,
and of this sum ;£^8oo was subscribed by the Duke of
Sutherland, while the remaining jQ2oo was made up by the
volunteers themselves and others in the county friendly to
the movement. .

While the choice of a uniform had been exercising the
minds of the committee, drill had not been neglected. The
first drill instructor of the coqjs was Colour-Sergeant David
Ross, from the staff of the Ross-shire Militia at Dingwall,
who, in October, began to drill the (iolspie and Dornoch
Companies on each alternate week. In the following year
two sergeant-instructors were told off by Colonel Ross of the
militia for drilling the three companies.

It has already been stated that Major Weston was
appointed, by the Lord-Lieutenant of the county, Captain of
the (jolspie C'ompany, while Messrs. Sutherland Murray and
Joseph Peacock were elected by the volunteers Lieutenant
and Ensign respectively. Mr. W. S. Fraser, Procurator-Fiscal,
was appointed first Captain of the Dornoch Company, with
Sheriff-substitute Thomas Mackenzie as Lieutenant, and Mr.
Donald Taylor. Sheriff-Clerk, as Ensign. • Brora Company
had, as its first officers, Charles Hood, Inverbrora, Captain ;
George Lawson,Clynelish, Lientenant; and John B. Dudgeon,
Crakaig, Ensign. In 1861 Major Weston was appointed
Adjutant of the Corps, and was succeeded in the command
of the Golspie Company by Lieutenant Murray, Ensign
Peacock becoming Lieutenant, and Mr. James Lindsay,
Ensign.

The volunteers had not long to wait until an opportunity

[

\<l!»^

266 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

presented itself for parading before their Sovereign. The
Queen had reviewed some 18,000 English volunteers in Hyde
Park, on 23rd June, i860, and no sooner was this great event
over than a strong desire was expressed that she should also
inspect her Scottish volunteers at Edinburgh. This she most
graciously consented to do, and the 7th August was fixed as
the date. Thanks to the generous aid of the Duke of
Sutherland and Lord Stafford, the three Sutherland Companies
were enabled to take part in this great national event. The
companies mustered at Little Ferry at 11 a.m , on Monday,
6th August, and, after refreshments had been served, they
embarked, 169 strong, on board the steamer "Heather Bell"
for Inverness, thence they were conveyed to Edinburgh by
rail via Aberdeen, and at the Review they formed part of the
second battalion, third Ikigade of the first Division of Rifles.
A hearty cheer was accorded them by the spectators as they
marched past the saluting point.

The next event of importance in connection with the
movement was the formation of a fourth company at Rogart.
The desire to raise a Corps there took practical shape at a
meeting held in Rogart School, on 13th October, i860, when
it was unanimously resolved to form a company. Special
attention was to be exercised that the men enrolled should
be temperate, and of good moral character. Messrs. John
Hall, Sciberscross ; Robert B. Sangster^ Banker, Golspie ;
and George Barclay, Davochbeg; were elected Captain,
Lieutenant, and Ensign respectively. The Rogart Company
had, from its commencement, the distinction of adopting
practically, the uniform of the 93rd Sutherland Highlanders,
viz : scarlet doublet, Sutherland tartan kilt and plaid, glen-
garry bonnet, and white belts, with a plate on the front of

268 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

the shoulder belt bearing the inscription " Duchess (Harriet's)
Company, Rogart," and it is the boast of the Rogart men
that their dress, a few years later, became the uniform of the
whole battalion.

The War Office, in December, 1863, issued an order
converting the Sutherland Rifle Volunteer Corps into an
Administrative Battalion, composed of the four Sutherland
Companies, and the ist Orkney at Lerwick ; and, later on,
the ist Caithness (Thurso), 2nd ditto (Wick), and 3rd ditto
(Halkirk), were added to the battalion.

The Duke of Sutherland who, as Marquis of Stafford, had
been appointed commanding officer in 1859, with the rank of
Major, was in 1864, promoted to the rank of Lieut.-Colonel.

1863 saw a complete change in the uniform of the three
grey clad companies, the new dress consisting of scarlet
Highland doublet, Sutherland tartan trews, diced glengarry
bonnet, and white belts. This uniform, however, does not
appear to have given satisfaction to either officers or men, for,
in 1867, it was put to the vote of the men whether the Corps
should adopt the full Highland dress or remain in trews, and
it is almost needless to say that **the kilt" was carried with
acclamation. The officers, from the Colonel downwards,
had previously resolved " for the kilt," if the men agreed.

H.R.H. The Prince of Wales paid his first visit to Dun-
[^ robin Castle in September, 1866, when he received a
tremendous ovation, a leading part in which was taken by
the volunteers. The Dornoch Company formed a guard of
honour at Clashmore, while Golspie, Clyne, and Rogart
Companies received him at Dunrobin. His Royal Highness
was so impressed with the ai)pearance of the volunteers that,
at the request of the Duke of Sutherland, he consented to

■

' 4

^^^H

. J

i %^ ^

k -S'--- "

^^^H

^^^_

1«

i
i

■t

•*

■ 1

, ../-'ir^v^^

-n

1 tf

270 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

become Honorary Colonel of the battalion, a rank which he
still retains.

A fifth company was added to the strength of the county
rifles in 1867, at Bonar Bridge. The work of enrolling was
taken up with enthusiasm, and in a very short time a .strong
company was raised. At the date of writing (1896), E or
Bonar Company is the strongest in the battalion. Mr.
Dugald Gilchrist, of Ospisdale, was appointed Captain ; Mr.
A. S. Black, Banker, Bonar, Lieutenant ; and Mr. John
Mackenzie, Creich, Ensign.

The sergeants of the battalion had an honourable and
pleasant duty to perform in August, 1871. On the 4th ot
the month Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland presented
a new set of colours to the 93rd Sutherland Highlanders,
then lying in Edinburgh Castle, to replace those which that
gallant corps had carried through the Indian mutiny. The
officers of the 93rd resolved, in return for the kindness of the
Duchess, to hand over their old colours to the custody of
the Duke, to be kept in Dunrobin Castle, and His Grace
issued orders that the Sergeants of the Sutherland volunteers
should proceed to Edinburgh to receive the colours and
bring them north. When the Duke himself went to Edinburgh
to be present at the ceremony, he took with him, as a body-
guard, 20 privates of the Rogart Company, not a man ot
whom stood less than six feet high.

On the occasion of Her Majesty*s visit to Dunrobin
Castle in September, 1872, the volunteers formed a guard of
honour, and the following reference to them appears in the
Queen's book — Afore Leaves from the Journal of a Life in the
High hinds :

2 72 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUJS'TRY.

** At six \vc were at Golspie station, where the Duchess
of Sutherland received us, and where a detachment ot the
Sutherland •volunteers, who looked very handhome in red
jackets and Sutherland tartan kilts, were drawn up."

The next eight years of volunteer existence appear to
have been comparatively uneventful, but steady progress was
being made year by year in drill, shooting, and general
efficiency.

By a War Office order, dated ist June, 1880, the several
companies composing the Administrative Battalion ceased to
exist as separate corps, and became lettered companies of a
new consolidated battalion entitled the ist Sutherland (the
Sutherland Highland) Rifle Volunteer Corps. The establish-
ment was fixed at 10 comi)anies and i sub-division (since
increased to 1 1 companies), with a maximum strength of 1059
of all ranks.

In 1 88 1 the greatest event in the history of the Scottish
volunteers took place. On the 25th August, Her Majesty
the Queen reviewed over 40,000 Scottish and North of
England volunteers at Edinburgh. Thanks again to the
munificence of the Duke of Sutherland, the Sutherland
men were able to attend this great review with but trifling
cost to their company funds. The Duke himself took
command on this occasion, Major Weston, the Adjutant,
being the only other mounted officer with the corps.

The total strength of the battalion at the review was 18
officers and 457 non-commissioned officers and men (including
a detachment of the Thurso Company), divided into six
companies, and anyone who had the privilege of seeing the
battalion marching past, will not readily forget the grand
physique of the leading company under the command of the

2 74 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Marquis of Stafford. To give an idea of the size of the men
composing this company, it is only necessary to say that the
height of the centre man was 5 feet 10 inches, while the
flank men stood each 6 feet 3 inches.

The position of ihe battalion was third, in the third brigade
of the first division, the Brigadier being Colonel Duncan
Macpherson of Cluny, commanding the *' Black Watch."
The Scotsman^ in describing the march past, said of the
Sutherland men :

" But the cheers that were raised were for the *yueen's
ain men ' , . . and for the Sutherlandshire regiment — a
regiment that was under the command of the Duke o(
Sutherland, and which, in their showy scarlet jackets and
tartan kilts, fairly caught the eye, and almost effaced by
their impressiveness recollections of what had gone before.
In this regiment there were, it is true, the same weaknesses
(distances between companies) as have already been noticed.
The promise held out by the leading company by their all but
faultless dressing, was not altogether borne out by those that
followed; but, on the other hand, taken as a body, they were
as strong and heavy men as ever stepped in kilts."

The Times said :

** Splendid men the Duke's corps are, reminding some
of the spectators of the 93rd in its Crimean days. They
marched also as well as they looked.'*

Major Weston, who had served as Adjutant since 1861,
retired in 1882, and was succeeded, under the new regulations,
limiting the tenure of the office to five years, by Major Webber
Smith, from the first battalion South Staffordshire regiment.
Major Webber Smith did not complete his term with the
corps for, on his regiment being ordered for service in the
Soudan Expedition of 1884, he volunteered for active service

VOLUNTEERS. 275

and was accepted. He was succeeded as Adjutant by Captain
Francis Maude Reid, 71st H.L.I. Major Reid was, in his
turn, succeeded by Major H. G. I^ng, ist Seaforlhs, and he,
on retiring from the army in 1894, was followed by Captain
Granville C. Feilden, 2nd Seaforths, the present energetic
Adjutant.

The company of rifles at Lerwick formed, as has already
been mentioned, one of the companies of the Sutherland
battalion ; but, on account of its isolated posuion, the War
Office, in 1884, resolved to convert it into a company of
artillery, and transfer its equipment to Lairg, where a com-
pany was to be raised. The latter part of this scheme was
carried through most successfully, and a splendid company
was enrolled at Lairg, with Messrs. D. Munro, Banker,
l^irg, and J. R. Campbell, Shinness, as officers.

The regiment was present at the review of Highland
volunteers held at Inverness in honour of the Queen's Jubilee,
on 27th June, 1887, and the following are the remarks of
the Inverness Courier on its appearance there :

**Tho Sulherlandshire volunleers were a ma<;nificent
body of mi*n, all of good size and of splendid physique, and
as they stepped alonj^^ (790 strong) to the music oi between 30
and 40 pipers, they elicited the hearty admiration of all. In
point of physique the Sutherland battalion carried off the palm."

The Duke of Sutherland handed over the command of
the regiment in 1882 to Captain the Marquis of Stafford,
who held it until 1891, when he was succeeded by Major
Clarence G. Sinclair, Younger of Ulbster. Colonel Sinclair
retiring in 1893, a petition, signed by every officer and man
in the regiment, was presented to their former colonel, now
4th Duke of Sutherland, requesting him to resume the

276 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

command, but as His Grace had, in the interval, become
colonel of the Staffordshire Yeomanry, and the regulations
prevented him holding two commissions, he found himself
unable to comply, much to the regret of all ranks. Major
Duncan Menzies, Blarich, the present popular and enthusiastic
commanding officer, was then gazetted Lieutenant-Colonel.

In 1885 the regiment had its first taste of camp life. A
battalion camp was formed at Dunrobin on 27th July in this
year, and lasted for six days. Everything passed off so
satisfactorily that a second was held on the same ground
in the beginning of August, 1887. These were the only
battalion camps held, for a(ter the formation of the volunteer
force into brigades, the Sutherland battalion joined its
brigade — the Highland — on the three occasions when it went
into camp, viz : 189 1, at Fort (jcorge, and 1893 ^"^^ '^95>
at Invergordon. On the day of the inspection and review at
Invergordon, in 1895, the regiment numbered on parade 923
of all ranks, and on all these occasions it has compared most
favourably, in every respect, with the other corps composing
the brigade.

No notice of the Sutherland volunteers would be complete
without a reference to the two great events of the volunteer
year in the county, viz : the prize meetings of the Sutherland
Rifle Association, ar.d the reviews at Dunrobin Castle.

The Sutherland Rifle Association was founded in 1861,
and has held its meetings continuously at Dunrobin in the
autumn of each year ever since. Thanks mainly to the Dukes
of Sutherland, and other friends of the volunteers in the
county, it has offered a most attractive prize list every year,
and its influence on the shooting of the corps has been most
beneficial.

VOLUNTEERS. 277

The volunteer review at Dunrobin Castle has always been
one of the great events of the eastern portion of the county.
Started in i860 by the second Duke of Sutherland, reviews
were held annually in the autumn, down to 1880. In 1881
the great Edinburgh review took place, and it was deemed
sufficient demonstration for that year. They were resumed,
however, in 1882, and have been held since then in 1883, '84,
'91, and '94. At the review of 1876 the Caithness companies
first appeared, and created a most favourable impression.

The ^/{/f^/^ muzzle loading rifle, with which the volunteeis
were first armed, was exchanged in 1871 for the Snider
breach-loader, which again gave place in 1885 to the Martini-
Henry, with which the force is now armed; but there is every
prospect that 1896 will witness the issue of the new Lee-
Me (ford rifle.

Considering the great distance which the Sutherland men
have to travel to the meetings of the National Rifle Association
their successes at Wimbledon and Bisley must be regarded
as highly creditable to their prowess with the rifle. It was
not till 1873 that a representative of the corps appeared at an
N R.A. meeting, and up till 1880, only trifling prizes were
won. Since then members of the Sutherland companies
have won : The Daily Telegraph Cup ; first prize Grand
Aggregate (twice); first prize Volunteer Aggregate; Wimbledon
Cup ; Olympic ; and ten " Queen's " badges ; besides a
considerable number of substantial, though less important,
prizes, while representatives have shot five times in the
Scottish Twenty team for the International Trophy. It was
in 1883, however, that the crowning glory of the shooting
world came to the county, when Sergeant Robert Mackay of
the Dornoch Company carried off* the Queen's Prize. That

COLOl h: SLBGEAM

BLEDON, 1883,

VOLUNTEERS. 279

was a great year in the annals of the Dornoch Company, for,
at the Highland Rifle Association meeting at Inverness,
their team won the Bannockburn Shield, a trophy open for
competition to teams of eight men from any volunteer com-
pany in Scotland.

Golspie, Dornoch, and Clyne companies organised first
flute, and then brass bands, shortly after they were raised,
and these continued until 1883, w^^en it was resolved that
brass bands should be entirely abolished in the baltalion,
and a pipe band formed instead. Rogart and Bonar Com-
panies, it should be mentioned, had pipers from their formation.
The change has proved eminently successful, the pipers of
the battahon, consisting usually of 28 or 30 performers (besides
drummers), forming probably the largest military pipe band
in the world. The battalion now possesses an ambulance
corps at Golspie and VV^ick, andacycHst section in Caithness.
The strength of the whole battalion, as at 31st October, 1895,
was 1082 of all ranks, 598 being in Sutherland and the
remainder in Caithness. This is the greatest strength the
corps has yet attained to. The maximum authorised estab-
lishment is 1 1 1 1.

List of noblemen and gentlemen who have held
commissions in the sutherland rifle volunteers.

HoN.-CoLONEL. — H.R.H. The Prince of Wales.

LiEUT.-CoLONELS COMMANDING. — The Duke of Suther-
land, Marquis of Stafford, Clarence G. Sinclair, Duncan
Menzies.

Majors. — W. S. Fraser, E. H. Home, J. H. Buik, Earl
of Cromartie, Clarence G. Sinclair, D. Menzies, R. Robertson,
D. Sutherland, J. MacKintosh, John Morrison.

28o SUTHKRLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Adjutants. — Major C. S. Weston, Major J. Webber-
Smith, Major F. M. Reid, Major H. G. Lang, Captain G.

C. Feilden.

Chaplains. — Revds. W. MacBeath, D. Grant

Surgeons. — J. Craven, J. B. Simpson, A. Alexander,
S. Elliot.

Quartermasters. — John Blake, James Morrison.

Sutherland Company Officers. — A. (Golspie) Com-
pany— C. S. Weston, S. Murray, J. Peacock, J Lindsay,
A. J. T. Box, R. Wright, W. Murray, John Morrison, H.
Grant, A. N. MacAulay, T. V. Eykyn.

B. (Dornoch) Company. — W. S. Fraser, T. MacKenzie,

D. Taylor, T. Barclay, A. Leslie, R. Macdonald, J. Barclay,
J. MacKintosh, L Hoyes.

C. (Clyne) Company. — C. Hood, G. Lawson, J. B.
Dudgeon, R. Wright, G. R. Lawson, A. J. T. l?ox, G.
Sutherland, W. J. Dudgeon, R. C. Ross.

D. (Rogart) Company. — J. Hall, R. B. Sangster, G.
Barclay, D. Gray, Manjuis of Stafford, Master of Blantyre,
D. Menzies, G. G. Tait, P. B. Sangster, John Mackay, A. J.
T. Box, J. Milligan, R. B. Sangster.

E. (Bonar) Company. — D. Gilchrist, A. S. Black, J.
MacKenzie, A. Harper.

F. (Lairg) Company. — D. Munro, J. R. Campbell, J. A.
Butters.

VOLUNTEERS. 28 1

Aktili.kky Com fa Nits.

It will be remembered that at the first meeting in connec-
tion with the volunteer movement, held at Golspie on 6th
June, 1859, the gentlemen there assembled resolved to raise
a company in the parish of Kildonan. This company was
formed as the ist Sutherland Artillery in March, and was
formally sworn in in April, i860, — Messrs. George I.X)ch,
Uppat; William Houstoun, Kintradwell; Robert Rutherford,
and Dr. Rutherford, Helmsdale; being appointed Captain,
I St Lieutenant, 2nd Lieutenant, and Surgeon respectively.

The company did not take part in the Royal review of
7th August, i860, but was present at the greater one of 25th
August, 1 88 1. It has always taken a most prominent part in
the local leviews at Dunrobin, the smart handling of the two
field guns belonging to the company forming one of the
chief attractions on these occasions.

The Helmsdale Company has for years possessed a goodly
number of first-rate carbine shots, and probably, in this
respect, it is second to no company in the north. It has also
taken a good position in gun practice and repository drill,
and is at present one of the most efficient companies in the
Caithness Artillery Brigade, of which it forms part.

In 1867 the late Duke of Sutherland resolved to raise a
company of artillery volunteers at Golspie, having in view the
utilization of the splendid physical material existing in the
young fishermen of that village. A very strong company was
soon enrolled, and it is worthy of remark that, at its first
parades, the two flank men stood each fully 6 feet 6 inches
in height. The Duke*s youngest brother. Lord Ronald

{ .-

282 SUTHERLAND AND THE RKAY COUNTRY.

Leveson Gower, was appointed Captain, and Ensign Donald
Gray, of the Rogart Rifle Company, ist Lieutenant.

The company has taken its share, along with its companion
of the same arm in Hehnsdale, in all the local volunteer
events, and it has been highly successful in its great gun
shooting, both locally and at Inverness, where, for some years
previous to the disruption of the Inverness Artillery Associa-
tion, it carried off some of the principal prizes.

Both ihe Helmsdale and Golspie companies have been in
( camp with their Brigade, and they have sent contingents

i frequently to the Scottish Artillery camp at Barry.

The following ark those gentlemen who have
held commissions in the sutherland artillery

Companies : —

Helmsdale Company. — George Loch, W. Houstoun, R.
Rutherford, Dr. T. H. Rutherford, J. Campbell, J. Paterson,
David Sutherland, R. R. Hill, Donald Sutherbnd.

Golspie Company. — Lord Ronald L. (iower, D. Gray,
C. MacLean, J. MacLeod, O. Ross, \V. Traquair, D. Peters,
A. Barclay, W. Ross, George M. Ross, H. A. Rye, W. Barnes,
J. W. Cameron, C. J. Wahab.

POETRY AND MUSIC.
Hy Henry Whyte and Malcolm MacFarlank.

Not being natives of the county, we cannot pretend to have
that knowledge of the poetry and music of Sutherland which
would enable us to submit an exhaustive treatise on the
subject.

Rol) Donn Mackay is the bard of the county, and others
are mere rushlights compared with him indeed, with the
exception of the brothers (iordun, he is the only bard in the
county whose works have been published in a collected form.
It may be interesting, however, to mention that the late
Charles Mackay, LL.D., author of "Cheer, Boys, (^heer,"
" There's a good time coming," etc., and perhaps the most
popular and voluminous song writer of his generation, was
the son of a Durness man, born on Loch Hope side (Rob
Donn's native parish); and the mother of (leorge Macdonald,
the distinguished poet and novelist, was a sister of the Rev.
Dr. Mackintosh Mackay, the editor and collector of the first
edition of Rob Donn's poems, published in 1829. Doubt-
less, these eminent poets derived their poetic tastes from
their parents, who could hardly fail being influenced by the
poetry and music of Rob Donn, the bard of their native
district. In the year 1802 William (iordon, a native of
Creich,born in 17 70, published a collection of Caelic Hymns.*
He was in the Reay Fencibles until their being disbanded in

• See Reid's Bihleotheca Scofa-Celtica pp. 164-165.

284 SUTHERLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRV.

1 798, It was during the time that the regiment w.is in
Ireland that his little volume was published. When the
regiment was disbanded, he returned to his native parish, and
was employed as a teacher o( one of the (iaelic schools. He
died in i8io. A few of the best oF Gordon's hymns were
afterwards reprinted in a Collection of Hymns by John
Munro, Glasgow, in 1819. He also composed an elegy on
his brother. Peter Gordon, which has been much admired for
its simplicity of diction and deep pathetic feeling. This
L' elegy was published in a volume of original poems by his

^ brother, George Ross Gordon, in 1804. The work contains,

besides the elegy, a love song by William Gordon, and two
small pieces of considerable merit by Alexander (jordon,
another brother, who was a master mason iii Tain. After
leaving the army George Ross Gordon was successfully
employed as teacher of a Gaelic School at Morness, The
elegy on I'eter Ck>rdon will he found in the Teachditirt
Gatla(h,\o\. I. (1819) page 171. We might also refer to
the sacred poems of the pious Donald Matheson, who was
born in 1 7 1 9, in the heights of the parish of Kildonan, where
he spent his lifetime. He died in 1782. His hymns were
lirst published about 1816, and a second edition in Tain,
1825. A number of his best iK>ems and a brief English
memoir will be found in " Metrical Reliques of the Men in
ihe Highlands.!"

During the present century a number of minor poets have
tuned their Gaelic harps, but we are not aware that any of

iilttrical Rtliqtifi ef Ihe Men in the Highlands, or Sacred
Poetry of ihe Norih, with Introduction and Brief Memoirs in English,
collected and edited by John Rose, Invemesn, 1851.

■I

POETRY AND MUSIC. 285

them have published a collection of their poems. These
have been successfully dealt with by the Rev. Adam Ounn,
in his *• Unpublished Literary Remains of the Reay ('ountry "
a pai)er read before the (iaelic Society of Inverness in 1889,
and published in Vol. XVI. of that Society's Transactions.

Instead of attemptini^ to traverse so wide a county alone,
we have sought the guidance of those who are familiar with
its every lake and river, hill and ben, and so led we proceed
ui)on our musical excursion through this great county. The
following paper is from the facile pen of Mr. John Mackay,
Hereford, and he has kindly given us permission to inter-
polate such songs and airs as shall best illustrate the great
bard of the Reay country. We may here state that for many
of the airs we are indebted to a MS. collection left by the
late John Munro, a native of the county, who resided for
many years in Cilasgow. We do not deem it necessary to
give the Ciaelic words of the songs, as these can easily be
found in anv of the editions of the works of Rob Donn.

ROB DOXN.

Hv John Mackav, c.k., j.p., Hkkkkord.

In the olden times the bards were sufficiently provided
for from within, they had need of little from without. The
gift of imparting lofty ideas, emotions, and glorious images
to men, in words and melodies that charmed the ear, and
fixed themselves inseparably on whatever they might touch,
of old enraptured the bard, and served the gifted as a rich
inheritance. At the courts of kings, at the tables of the
great, under the windows of the fair, the sound of their lays
was heard, while the ear and the soul were closed to all beside.

286 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

** High placed in hall, welcome guests
They poured, to lords and ladies gay,
The unpremeditated lay."

Robert Mackay, the celebrated (Gaelic bard, whose proper
name has yielded to the more familiar one of Rob Donn
(brown Robert), from the colour of his hair and swarthy
complexion, was born in the winter season of 17 14, as he
tells us in his exquisite elegy on William, eighthteenth Earl
of Sutherland, who died at Bath, i6th June, 1766 —

Rugadh mise anns a' (Iheamhradh
Measg na beanntaidhean gruaimeach,

'S mo cheud sealladh do 'n t-saoghal
Sneachd is gaoth mu mo chluaisibh

»T

Twas in winter I was born,
'Midst the wild frowning mountains.

And what first met my gaze

Was the snow, and frost-bound fountains.

The birth-place of Rob Donn, A!!t-na Caillkh (nun's
burn), at the head of the valley of Strath more, is the centre
of the most wildly grand and picturesque scenery in the
Highlands. This Alpine valley lies embosomed in lofty
hills. Its upper extremity terminates in an assemblage of
mountains piled together, as if nature in a fanciful mood
meant to exhibit the rude yet majestic grandeur of its handi-
work, in assembled mountain and rock, river and cataract,
glen and corrie. At its lower extremity, and along its eastern
side, rises Ben Hope, in abrupt and towering magnificence,
rearing, as it were, its imperial head in the midst of numerous

POETRY AN MUSIC. 287

kindred mountains around, which seem to show their
diminished height, as if to do it homage. Beyond this awe-
inspiring mountain opens at once upon the view the fme
expanse of Loch Hope, washing the northern base of the
mountain. The observer is now left to contrast this over-
powering subhmity with the adjacent wilderness of fell and
morass, the banks of Loch Hope -decked on each side with
tufts and groves of the healthy sweet-scented native birch-
wood —divided by spots of emerald green, images as it were
of delicate protected innocence, stretching from the shores
of the lake up to the base of the mountain, as if anxious to
seek its august and magnificent protection.

Such is a brief description of the scenery which surrounded
Rob Donn in his youthful days. If such sublimity of local
environment can inspire poetic imaginations, or conduce to
the formation and training of poetic genius, truly the nursery
of our bard might well lay claim to that merit, " The emblem
of deeds that were done in its clime." It forms part of the
parish of I )urness, in the centre of that extensive district of
the county of Sutherland, which, having been inhabited from
a period almost beyond the reach of history by the Mackays,
has always been designated in the native language, Duthaich
Mhic-Aoidh (the territory of the Mackays), and sometimes
*' Lord Reay's Country," the chief of the Clan Mackay, and
will probably be so called for ages to come, although the
whole of it has passed for the last sixty-six years into the
hands of the house of Stafford and Sutherland.

Although Rob I)onn*s talents, even in very early child-
hood, excited much attention, he never received a jxartide of
what is too exclusively called education ; he never knew the
alphabet, but the habit he inherited and learned from his

288 SUTHERLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRY

Highland mother of oral recitation, enabled him before
attaining manhood to lay up an amazing amount of poetic
and other lore, as has from time immemorial constituted the
intellectual wealth of his countrymen and women, such as the
Ossianic poetry, and numberless other minstrelsy of his
native country. His mother was remarkable for her recital
of these. She died at a very advanced age. An anecdote is
related of her, evincing a singular instance of heroic fortitude
at the age of eighty-two. Being out on the hills, some
distance from home, she had the misfortune to break her leg.
No way daunted, she bound it up as well as she could, and
contrived to get home unassisted ; and while enduring the
operation of setting the fracture, she soothed away the pain
by softly humming or * crooning" one of her favourite Gaelic
airs. Robert's mastery of Highland traditions, ballads, and
orain of all sorts had become extraordinary, and his knowledge
of Holy Writ was eciually remarkable, and, be it remembered,
at the time he lived no Gaelic Bible had reached tlie county.
At a very early ajje the boy poet attracted the attention of
John Mackay, better known in his own county as laift
MacEachain (John, the son of Hecrtor), tacksman of Musal,
an extensive grazing farm in Strathmore, less than two miles
from Rob's home. Mr. Mackay persuaded his parents to let
him, young as he was, come into his family. He was put to
tend calves. His master was not only a grazier but also a
cattle dealer, a business then followed in the North Highlands
by comparatively few gentlemen, but those few were gentlemen
of good birth and breeding, of the highest probity, superior
attainments and intelligence. Mr. Mackay was one of these,
liberal minded, upright, gentlemanly, and of a disposition the
most amiable and benevolent to all around, esj^ecially to his

POETRY ANM> MUSIC.- 289

poorer neighbours— in short, a man universally respected.
In this gentleman's family the boy poet remained to the
period of his marriage. When he advanced in years and
strength, it became part of his duties to assist in guiding
droves of Highland cattle to the southern markets and into
England. Meantime, his witty sayings, his satires, his elegies,
and above all, his comic and love songs, had begun to make
him famous, not only in his native glens, but wherever the
herdsmen and drovers of a thousand hills could carry an
anecdote or a stanza, after their annual peregrinations to and
from such scenes as the Falkirk Trysts or Kendal Fairs.

During this period many anecdotes have been preserved
of the boy-herd's and the young man's precocity. His
(juickness of mind, his amazing power of repartee, were
sources of frequent amusement and astonishment to his
master, and unceasingly to younger members of the family,
with whom he became a great favourite. In this estimable
household the youthful poet experienced the most liberal
treatment and encouraging kindness, of which he ever
afterwards retained a lively and grateful recollection. On the
death of Mr. Mackay our poet composed an elegy to his
memory, one of his best, which combines an impressive,
effective description of character with as pure poetic power
as can be found in any elegiac poetry. We are tempted to
give a translation of two stanzas of this excellent production.

" Though there be some who laugh to scorn
The man of liberal heart and hand,
This prayer to heaven should be borne
From all the quarters of the land,

290 SUTHERLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRY.

That that blest day we soon may see
When man shall love his brother men,

Nor barter all eternity

For selfish three score years and ten.

This stanza reminds us of Burns and his immortal ode,
** A man's a man for a' that." The next depicts the general
sadness caused by the demise of his former master and
friend, Iain MacEachann.

" Who needs advice must want it now,

And see the prosperous times depart ;
All clouded is the poet's brow

With none to reverence his art.
None seek to make the sad rejoice-

And when I ask why joys are fled
They answer me, with tearful voice,

* Alas ! is not MacEachainn dead ? ' "

In the latter years of Rob Donn's service with the
estimable Mr. Mackay, he was entrusted by his master with
the chief care of his droves to the southern markets. In
tliese annual expeditions we cannot doubt that in this capacity
the young man, with that native sagacity and quick discern-
ment belonging to the Highlanders and his own genius, acquir-
ed no small share of that knowledge and insight of character
and manners which are so apparent in his poetical composi-
tions. To nature he was greatly indebted ; so was he also to
the form and structure of that society to which he had access
at home, yet not a little to the sphe-e of observation that his
frequent journeying disclosed to a mind singularly acute and
circumspect.

POETRY AND MUSIC.

291

The following translation is from the pen of the gifted
Thomas Pattison, author of "The Gaelic Bards.* "

The Sheiling Song.

CS trom Uam an uiridh.)

-A

Ifib

-fj{.l. I

: 1, .8. Id : 1, .8, I n :n .r In

J:n.8|l :l.d'|l :8.n|8 :n.r|

ft.

xrts:

suited:

{.8, Id

:d .r In

: 8 .n I r :d .r |n

i.8 In : 1,. 1, Id :n .r I d : 1|.8| |1| : -

: li .li In

: - .8 ,8 1 1

/.d' |8 :n .r Id :n .r Id :1,.8||1| :-

•The Gaelic Bards, and Original Poems, by Thomas
Pattison. Glasgow : Arch. Sinclair, 1890 (second edition).

292 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Oh I sad is the shelling and gone are its joys !
All harsh and unfeeling to me now its noise,
Since Anna— who warbled as sweet as the merle -
Forsook me, my honey mouth'd, merry-lipped girl !

Heich I how I sigh ; while the hour

Lazily, lonelily, sadly, goes by I

I^st week, as I wander'd up past the old trees,
I mourn'd, while I ponder'd, what changes one sees I
Just then the fair stranger walk'd by with my dear -
Dreaming, unthinking, I had wander'd too near.
Till, " Heich ! " then I cried, when I saw
The girl, with her lover, draw close. to my side -

" Anna, the yel low -hair d, dost thou not see

How thy love unimpaired wearieth me ?

Twas as strong in my absence, when banish'd from thee —

As heart-stirring, powerful, deep as you see.

Heich ! it is now at this time.

When up like a leafy bow, high doth it climb."

Then haughtily speaking, she airily said,
" 'Tis in vain for you seeking to hold up your head :
There were six wooers sought me while you were away,
And the absentee surelv deserved less than thev.

Ha ! ha ! ha I are you ill ?

But if love seeks to kill you -bah ! small is his skill I "

Ach I ach ! Now I'm trying my loss to forget —
With sorrow and sighing, with anger and fret.
But still that sweet image steals over my heart.
And still I deem fondly hope need not depart.
Heich ! and I say that our love,
Firm as a tower gray, nought can remove.

POETRY AND MUSIC. 293

So fancy beguiles me, and fills me with glee,

Hut the carpenter wiles thee, false speaker I from me.

Vet from love's first affection I never get free :

Hut the dear known direction my thoughts ever flee.

Heich I when we strayed far away,

Where soft shone the summer day through the green
shade.

A young man of such a poetic temperament could not be
expected to remain long a stranger to the more tender
susceptibilities of his nature. He early wooed his ** yellow-
haired Annie " Morrison, but being detained at Crieff in
( harge of his master's drove for several months longer than
usual, the fair Annie plighted her troth to a rival and dis-
appointed her poet-lover. Robert, on his return, finding how
matters stood, keenly felt the slight, and made it the subject
of two of his finest love songs, '6* trom ham an airidh, being
one of them. In these exquisite songs, to original airs
his passion for the faithless " Anna '' breathes with an
innocent simple faithfulness, with an ardour and truth of
poetical recital that no lays of the kind can perhaps surpass.

Robert recovered from his disappointment, and within a
few years married Janet Mackay, daughter of a respectable
farmer in his native parish, a young woman of ready wit,
much good sense, and of a most amiable disposition, a fit
heli)-meet for the poet in every way, and he, unlike many of
the erratic ill-starred sons of genius, ever proved the best, the
most faithful of husbands, and an equally good, indulgent,
and dutiful parent to a numerous and respectable family.

About this time Donald, fourth i^ord Reay, a true-
hearted chief, claimed for himself the care of the rising bard

294 SUTHERLAND AMD THE REAY COUNTRY.

of the clan. 'ITiis nobleman was one of nature's nobility,
" a stay-at-home " amongst his clan ; genial and kind to all,
liberal minded and generous, one of the best of chiefs and
landlords. He personally knew all his tenantry and their
condition. His constant aim was to elevate the minds, as
well as assist in increasing the means of his humbler clans-
men. He never permitted any arrears of rent to be recorded
in the estate books. He himself attended the annual rent
collections, and to such of his tenants as were able to pay,
but not fully prepared, he lent the deficiency, and to such as
were unable from unforeseen circumstances, he discharged
the debt, giving them full receipts. This generous conduct
was never taken advantage of, his people, though compara-
tively poor, were educated by him to a degree of highminded-
ness and morality seldom met with elsewhere. This generosity
and careful attention produced the highest sense of gratitude
and manliness in the minds of his brave and unsophisticated
clansmen, evinced in the grand orderly conduct of the first,
second, and third regiments of Sutherland Fencibles, the
Reay Fencibles, and the 93rd regiment of the line This
estimable nobleman, and his co-temporary. Earl William of
Sutherland, were intimate friends, men of like dispositions.
They were the last of the grand Highland chiefs of their
respective clans, adored, idolised by clansmen for their
conduct, benevolence, and generosity, equally esteemed by
either clan, and on their demise lamented by both.

For his own chief, who died in 1761, Rob Donn
composed a most pathetic elegy, setting forth the virtues of
his heart and mind, and comparing him with his predecessors
in the following terms, much weakened by translation into
English :

POKTKN AND MUSIC. 295

'I'here have been lofty men among tliy sires,

In mind and wisdom, courage and renown.
Who in the proud pursuits of their desires

Have acted Hke the wearers of a crown !
Vet far less praise than thee they must receive,

For Christian grace, and faith, and charity.
It is less hard to hope than to believe

That better men will e'er come after thee I

For Karl William, who died in 1766, Rob, who knew him
well, composed a most touching elegy, regretting that no
bard in his own country had a word to say in memory of the
" High Chief of Dunrobin," but that his own feelings would
not permit him to be silent on an event so melancholy and
disastrous to the whole county. The poet in this excellent
lament depicts, '' in words that burn," the sorrow and sadness
of the people, descants upon the moral and mental virtues of
the deceased, his lovely and devoted young spouse, Mary
Maxwell, and his immediate predecessors ; expatiates upon
their personal gifts, their genial kindness to all, their hospi-
tality, their greatness without pride, their love of order, their
great desire to improve the condition of the tenantry, who
had no cause of complaint, for " not a penny was exacted
but they were able to pay,'' and concludes by invoking the
blessings of Heaven upon their young orphan daughter, left
to their people as a remembrance of them, and hopes he will
see or hear of her marriage with a hero (brave man) who will
follow in the footsteps and habitudes of her ancestors.

After his marriage Rob I )onn resided on a small out farm,
belonging to his late employer. He was one of the most
expert deer stalkers in the country. Being so well known

296 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRV.

for this attainment Lord Reay soon provided him with a
habitation, house and lands, on the eastern side of Loch
Erribol, and made him his gamekeeper. His functions were
not very well defined, but he was to shoot as many deer from
time to time as his Lordship's family and friends might
require. This employment was eminently suited to the poet's
predilections, and everything went on very satisfactorily for
some years. When the preser\'ation of a separate deer
forest became necessary, its charge devolved upon another.
Our bard sometime afterwards was reported of being some-
what unscrupulous as to the number of deer he shot. The
accusation was not denied. At this period nothing could
possibly be imagined more difficult to be understood by
Highlanders than that there could be any moral evil in killing
any animal of the chase. In itself it was a pastime and sport
to which all were more or less trained from boyhood. It
begets enthusiasm for itself which largely partakes of practical
poetry in its character, and so wholly suited to all their native
predilections that its interdiction was considered as an
assumption of power entirely unwarrantable on the part of
their superiors. The saying " 'S ioftraic a' mhcirle na feidh "
(righteous is the theft of deer), became a proverb, and has
still outlived its literal application over all the Highlands of
Scotland. Our bard upon this subject exposed himself to the
visitations of the law, but he always escaped, though
threatened, for there was scarcely any of the gentlemen of the
county who would not have gone any length to protect him.
On one occasion, when rather alarmed, he called upon Mr.
Mackay of Bighouse to befriend him. Mr. Mackay seemed
deaf to all Rob's protestations. *' Would you accept of
security for future good behaviour ? " he asked. " No."

POKTRY AND MUSIC. 297

"Will you not accept of your son, Hugh, as security?"
added Rob. ** No." He then got up to leave, and before
turning round to go, exclaimed, "Thanks be to Him who
refuses not His Son as security for the chief of sinners."
Robert heard no more of the affair.

When William, Earl of Sutherland, "the beloved," was
commissioned by the rrown in 1759 to raise a regiment of
Fencibles, 1000 strong, so popular was he in Sutherland and
the Reay country that in nine days 1500 Sutherlands, Mackays,
and other countrymen, assembled on Dunrobin (ireen to be
enrolled under the Earl's banner, as Colonel. Urged by
several of the gentlemen holding commissions in the corps
to accompany them, Rob, no way loath, joined as a
private.

The admiration of his talents and genius, joined to his own
becoming and respectable demeanour, had long previous to
this time procured him admittance to the society and the
family circles of all the better and higher classes in the
county, even to Dunrobin Castle, the apartments of which
with their paintings and pictures he describes in his Elegy
for the Earl William, now his colonel.

In this regiment he was not required, by the consent of
the officers, to do duty as a soldier, except in a way that left
him master of his own movements. In one of his rambles
he was accosted by Major Ross, who had only joined the
regiment, and asked to what company he belonged. " To
every company," retorted the bard. The major next de-
manded his name. The bard's fitting reply was in a stanza
of four lines, *'I am a Sutherland among the Sutherlands, a
Gordon among the Gordons, a Gunn among the Gunns, but
at my own home, a Mackay." He then walked off! The

Jy^ --rTHKRLANI) AND THK RKAV COIXTRV.

major was very angry at this gross breach of military etiquette
and discipline. This officer shortly after meeting Earl
William, the colonel, reported the circumstance. The Earl,
knowing it could be no other than Rob Donn, explained
to the irate major that the poet was privileged, and that
when he made his acquaintance he would be still more in-
clined to forgive him. The bard did not forget the incident ;
he composed several songs in which he sarcastically rallied
the major upon his strictness of discipline. In 1763, on
peace being made with France, the regiment was disbanded,
and the poet, with every soldier enlisted, returned to their
homes.

Upon his return home, George, fifth Lord Reay, a noble-
man like his father whom he succeeded in 1761, exemplary,
pious, of excellent parts and acquirements, exceeded by none
of his predecessors in the affections of the people, — invested
his clan bard with an office that more than satisfied his am-
bition, and carried with it abundant respect in the eyes of his
fellow-mountaineers. He became Bo-man, or superinten-
dent of his Lordship's dairy and other cattle on the home
farm of Balnakill in Durness. His business was to account
for the safety and increase of the cattle entrusted to his care,
while his wife superintended the dairy. He was bound by
agreement to make certain annual returns of dairy
produce.

In this situation he remained for several years, giving the
greatest satisfaction, till Mackay ofSkibo became manager of
the estate. It was part of the Bo-man's duty to thresh, or
assist to thresh out corn for supplying the cattle with fodder
during the winter months. The bard was not used to the
exercise of the flail ; he employed servants to do this labori-

POETRY AND MUSIC. 299

ous work, which he had not previously been asked to do.
He was informed he must wield the flail or quit. The bard
chose the latter alternative. It has been rightly supposed
that this was not the real cause. Rob had sometime previ-
ously severely animadverted upon the conduct of Lady Reay,
in a satire, because she had tried to screen a favourite wait-
ing-maid from the censure of the Church, using all her influ-
ence with the clergyman for that purpose, and on his refusal,
threatened him with legal proceedings to compel him. The
minister was firm. Rob heard of it all and severely satirized
her Ladyship. This being reported to her, she conceived a
great dislike to the bard, and prevailed upon Mackay of
Skibo, on his being appointed estate manager, to find some
plausible excuse to get rid of the satirist.

Rob retired to Achmore on the confines of Cape Wrath.
When Balnakill became the residence of Colonel Hugh
Mackay, son of his early employer and friend, he was solicited
to enter his service. The bard assented. The fond associa-
tions of boyhood and youthful days were not forgotten by
either, notwithstanding the difference of age, now more
separated by that of rank. Rob's attachment to the colonel
was sincere, in fact he was very partial to him and composed
several songs in his favour ; but even this did not prevent
the bard, when he considered it due, to make some severe
strictures upon the colonel and upon his wife's penuriousness.
These animadversions were borne by the colonel with be-
coming temper, and at the bard's interment no one felt the
loss more sincerely than Colonel Mackay.

The following translation of a song in praise of Hugh
Mackay, Bighouse, is by Mr. L. MacBean, and appears with
music in " Songs and Hymns of the Scottish Highlands/'

"> THE RF.AV COUNTRY.

■ FOR Hugh Mai

Oh, sad this voice of woe we hear,

And gone our cheer and pleasantry ;
One common grief without relief.

Has suited on chief and peasantry ;
In hut or hall or merchant's stall.

There's none at all speaks cheerfully ;
Smce thai sad day he went away.

Naught can we say but tearfully.

It is not private loss or woe

Thai makes the blow so rigorous.

But his sad fate whom none could hate
With mind so great and vigorous.

POKTRY AND MUSIC. 30I

For none could find in heart or mind

A fault in kind or quality,
Now he is not, though we forgot,

Our common lot, mortality.

Oh, many a man was filled with gloom

That round thy tomb stood silently ;
Hearts that were buoyed with hope— now void —

By death destroyed so violently.
By clansmen i)rized and idolized,

His worth disguised humanity.
But this fell blow, alas ! will show

There's naught below but vanity.

He was excelled by none on earth.

Wit, wisdom, worth, adorning him ;
But none can fill his place but ill

Of those who will be mourning him.
The hearts are wrung of old and young.

The mourner's tongue is failing him.
Oh, never m )re shall we deplore

One man so sore bewailing him I

Rob continued in the colonel's employ till his wife, now
feeling the infirmities of age, was no longer able to undergo
the fatigue of her laborious office. They retired to the
neighbouring small farm of Naybeg. They had not long
been there when his excellent wife, whom he tenderly loved,
died, and whom he did not survive many months. He
deeply grieved for her loss. His greatest earthly treasure
was gone. He continued, however, to attend to his usual
avocations till within a fortnight of his death, which took

302 Sl'THKRI.AJjn AND THE REAV COUNTRY,

pkce on the 5th August, 1778, at the age of sixty- four. His
death caused a universal feeling of sadness over the whole
county. He was honoured with a funeral like that of a
chief, the highest and lowest of his clan standing side by
side with tears in their eyes when his body was laid in its
last home. In 1829 a monument was erected over his re-
mains at the expense of a number of his devoted clansmen,
with appropriate inscriptions in Gaelic, English, Greek, and
Latin.

His stories of wit and humour were inexhaustible, and
next to superior intelligence and mental acuteness, formed
possibly in his every-day character the most conspicuous
feature. He had ever a correct and delicate feeling of his
own place in society ; but if any, high or low, superior or
equal, drew forth the force of his sarcasm upon
themselves by assuming any undue liberty on their part. It
was an experiment they seldom desired to repeat. His
readiness and quickness of repartee frequently discovered
him where he had previously been unknown

Rob Donn's moral character was uniformly respectable.
To those acquainted wiih the moral and religious statistics
of the bard's native country at that time, it will furnish no
inconsiderable lest, not only of his morals, but of his strictly
religious demeanour, that he was chosen a ruling elder of
the Kirk session of his native parish. In that country such
an election was never known to be made where the finger of
scorn could be pointed at a blemish of character. It hardly
needs be mentioned that his company was courted not only
by his equals, but still more by his superiors in rank.

In the bosom of his family, humble yet respectable, he
was a pattern in happiness and temper. His discipline of

POETRY AND MUSIC. 303

his children was kindly, more by ridicule than by harshness,
and thus a family of thirteen were spared to rise around their
estimable parents, trained to habits of thrift, industry, and
virtue. The ordinary pastime of their long winter evenings
was, " the tale and the song," and the parent priest absent or
present, the whole family exemplified the most sacred line-
ament of the immortal picture in " The Cottar's Saturday
Night/' One of the sons enlisted in the 73rd, Lord Mac-
Leod's Highlanders, now the 71st. At the battle of Porto
Novo, in Southern India, ist July, 1781, this gallant regiment
charged the enormous army of Hyder Ali seven times during
the day. In one of these charges John Donn Mackay came
out with his bayonet twisted like a corkscrew ; and Sir Hector
Munro, in his narrative of the battle of Arnee, fought on
2nd June 1782, states, ** I take the opportunity of commem-
orating the fall of John Donn Mackay, corporal in MacLeod's
Highlanders, son of Rob Donn, the bard whose singular
talent for the beautiful and extemporaneous composition of
Gaelic poetry was held in such high esteem. This son of
the bard has frequently revived the spirits of his countrymen
when drooping in a long march, by singing the humorous
and lively productions of his father. He was killed by a
cannon shot, and buried with military honours by his com-
rades the same evening."

From his birth to his death, Rob Donn was the celebrated
bard of the Reay Country. Though there were in that
magnificent country other bards of less note during his
time, yet he is the only one of whom we have any record.
It is therefore no wonder that his countrymen should esteem
and honour him. There were heroes before the Fingalians
but Highland poetry has not kept their deeds nor their

304 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

names in remembrance. Bards there may have been in the
Reay country before Rob Donn, but nothing is known of
their songs or names. As a bard, Rob Donn stands alone
in his own country. The Mackay clan were, and still are,
famous for many excellent qualities. They were, and still are,
very clannish. It is a lasting credit to the gentry of that
country that they considered the bard worthy of an honour-
able position among them. It is also a lasting credit to the
bard that he never did anything unworthy of his functions
as a poet to gain or keep that position. Like his contempo-
rary, Duncan Bkn, and many other Gaelic bards, he had no
school education ; but we must not suppose that the man
who could not read in those days was so ignorant as the
man who cannot read nowadays. It may be doubted if
there can be found in our day a herd or gamekeeper, how-
ever well schooled, so intelligent or so well educated as were
Rob Donn and Duncan B^n. Both these men had extra-
ordinary natural talents. They had knowledge which in our
day can only be acquired from books. They had secured a
culture which books cannot provide. There is no school in
the Highlands in which Rob Donn could obtain the educa-
tion he received in Ian MacEachainn's house and amongst
the gentry of the Mackay country. Not only did those
ladies and gentlemen know the poetry, the history, the tradi-
tions, and the customs of the Highlands, but they also pos
sessed accurate information regarding the government and
politics of their own day.

It may be that more praise and distinction have been
lavished on Rob Donn in his own district than have been
bestowed upon poets of greater parts. Out of his own
country, but more particularly among other Highlanders, he

POETRY AND MUSIC. 305

has not been appreciated as he deserves. There is none of
our Highland bards — Ossian perhaps excepted — who left so
many pieces of poetry behind him, and none at all who com-
posed so many songs ; aud in comparison with our Highland
bards in general, Rob Donn is notable for the brevity and
number of his songs. Probably we have not amongst them
all one who composed so many airs as he did. We have
none at all who composed songs upon such a variety of sub-
jects. There is not a chord of the Highland harp which he
has not touched. His mind may not have been filled with
the charm, the beauty, and the grandeur of the scenery of his
country, as were the minds of the three bards who were his
contemporaries, MacDonald, Buchanan, and Duncan Bkn ;
but we find on more than one occasion that the glory and
grandeur of the creation were not hid from his eye or from
his heart.

There are two things that helped to diminish Rob Donn's
fame out of his own district, these are — his language and
versification. Many of his words are unintelligible to the
Highlanders of the south and west. Rightly or wrongly,
little of the Reay country Gaelic, except Rob Bonn's
compositions, has been published to familiarise the know-
ledge of that dialect to the ears of other Highlanders, in
whose vocabulary many words he uses are not found, though
essentially good Gaelic, met with in dictionaries, and easily
understood by his own countrymen. This fact, combined
with the terseness of many of his expressions, may have
militated adversely against his productions being so well
accepted in the south as in the north. See his elegy to Ian
Mhic Raibeart Mhic Neill (Mackay of Mudal), page 150

Edition 187 1.

3o6 SUTHERLAND ANIt THE REAV COUNTRY.

" Corpa calnia, bha fearail,
Inntinn earbsach, )kii onoir,
Lamb a dbearbbadh na cbanadb am beul"

It is of great value to get the productions of a penetrating
intellect warm from the heart. Rob Donn could not write,
MacDonald and Bucbanan were school teachers. They wrote
and published their works. The Rev. Mr. Stewart of Killin
wrote his songs for Duncan Ban Macinlyre. It is a great
loss for Rob Uonn's permanent fame that be had not taken
the same opportunity ; nevertheless, so long as a lale will be
told, or a song sung in Gaelic, "The Song of Death,"
"Fillan," and the "Oeigan," "Smart John," and the "Grey
Buck." "MacRory's B reeks," and the "Rispond Family,"
will be a source of instruction and delight to thousands of
his countrymen in every quarter of the globe.

The Rispond Family consisted of two brothers who lived
together in single blessedness. They were mean, sordid
misers. They had a stock of sheep and cattle on the hills.
They amassed gold, and, like the man in the parable, hid it
in the earth, in a spot it is said where from their house win-
dows they could see its hiding-place. They had a house-
keeper. In the dead of winter, and late on a Saturday
night, a poor woman came to their door for shelter, but they
closed it in her face — an act which at that time, and for at
least one hundred years subsequent, was in those parts looked
upon as a heinous crime. Before that night week the three
were dead — the housekeeper first, and the two brothers
within a day and a night of each other. The two were
borne to their last resting-place by the same company of
men, and laid together in mother earth. The following

POETRY AND MUSIC.

307

translation is by the late Miss M. M. Scobie, Keoldale,
Sutherland.

The Rispond Family Elegy.

(MmrbhranM Chloinn Ruspainn,)

"T ' d£ I n ^B ; n .,r I d .,r : n . n I n .,s : d' .,t 1 1 : -. I

/. 1^ I d' .n : 8 .,1 I d' .t :d' .1 Is .,n : r .,n Id: -A

|. 8 Id' .,r' :n' .,r' I d' .,1 : b .lid' .,r' :d' .,t 1 1 : -.1

/. d' I 8 .,n : 8 . 1 I d' .,t : d' . 1 1 8 jn : r .,n Id:-,

Quite hale and strong and hearty

At the opening of the year
Were the three whom we have buried,

And now lie so lowly here ;
Ten days have only passed as yet

Since the New Year began, —
Who knows when this dread messenger

May call for any man ?

3o8 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

Within the circle of a year

Were both of these men born ;
Closest of comrades ever were

Since days of life's gay morn ;
Ev'n Death, who heeds not closest bonds,

No separation made.
For in the space of one brief day

He both in silence laid.

No wrong had they to any done,

Judging by human ken ;
But neither had they helped in aught

Their needy fellow-men ;
And all that can be said of them

Is — they were born — survived
Some years upon this earth— and then

The hour of death anived.

But after all that 1 have said.

The whole of which is true
(For in this song most faithfully

Fve told but what I knew),
I fear you will not heed my words,

Nor help the needy more
Than those poor fellows who last week

Were buried at our door.

" The Song of Death " is an elegy or Marbhrann u-pon
Rev. John Munro, Eddrachilis, and Mr. Donald Mackay,
Schoolmaster, Farr. The translation is by Mr. L, MacBean.

POETRY AND MUSIC.

309

The Song ok Death.

{Mat-bhrann. )

KET A 9

..<: 8, Is, : 1, :d |r : - : f

s :n :d

- }

D.C.

^»__«..

J : 8 In : r : d 1 1, : - : f , I 8| : - : - I d : -

2=^

E^e^

22.

(

: n If : n : f Is

1 : 8 :n |r : -

s;^g

:d If :n : f Is

f n : - : - |8 : -

}

# rt>-t,- ,

'-fc

:a:

•r-P ^

t.^

p==

.<:8 11 :s :n |8 --:n Ir :n :d |r :-

te=«:

_ c

{

: 8 in : r :d 1 1, : - : f, j s

I «i

- Id :-

O Death ! thou art still a herald of ill,
Thy grasp, hard and chill, ne'er faileth ;

Where warriors fight, thou showest thy might,
To shun thee no flight availeth.

3IO SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

O Messenger drear, no pity or fear

Saves peasant or peer before thee ;
For gold or for gain thou has but disdain,

And victims in vain deplore thee.

The babe at its birth, ere sorrow or mirth

It knows upon earth, thou takest ;
For the maid to be wed, ere to church she is led,

An eeriesome bed thou makest.
If old or if young, if feeble or strong

In wisdom, or wrong and error ;
If small or if great, whatever our state.

We have the same fate of terror.

O Power, from whom our sorrowful doom

Of death and the tomb descendeth,
How happy is he whose confident plea

On Thy promises free dependeth I
Our Father, Thou art the widow's sure part,

Ne*er shall Thy support forsake her ;
All good is bestowed, all favour is shewed

By our bountiful God and Maker.

Rob Donn's mind was, as a poet's mind ever must be,
clear, keen, susceptible. It was especially lively and quick ;
but a bard, be his endowments ever so high, never attained
the highest fame without subjecting his mind to patient study.
The son of man, with head or hand, never did, or never shall
do, any deed that shall endure without labour or exertion.

In personal appearance, Rob Donn was of medium
stature, strong and well formed, brown-haired, brown-eyed,
good looking ; the glance of his eye keen and penetrating,

POETRY AND MUSIC. 3IJ

and the expression of his countenance indicated much
animation of mind and energy of will.

Rob Donn*s poetic compositions may be classed into
four kinds — humourous, satirical, solemn, and descriptive.
All these severally, with few exceptions, partook of the
lyrical. To him the artificial part of poetry was unknown.
He seemed proud of his own power of satire, which was not
vindictive or rancorous, more calculated to annoy than to
wound. As a writer of elegies he is more distinguished for
sober truth than poetical embellishment. He detested
flattery, and in concluding a lament on the demise of a friend
he vouches for the truth of the virtues he recorded. His
most celebrated composition of this description is " Ewen's
Elegy." The circumstances under which it was composed
were these : Rob was benighted on a deer stalking exi)edition,
at the head of Loch Erribol, and took shelter for the night
in a hut in which dwelt an old man named Ewen, whom he
found stretched on a pallet, apparently at the point of death.
Rob had heard that morning of the death of Mr. Pelham,
Prime Minister of England, 1754. The idea of his death
called away from the summit of his ambition and worldly
greatness, contrasted with poor Ewen's condition, invoked the
bard's muse. Ewen, though unable to converse with the
poet, had still a quick sense of hearing, and also of pride.
When the bard went on repeating aloud his composition,
and came to the last stan/a, the dying man felt so incensed
that he crept from his pallet of heather, seized a stick and
aimed a blow at the poet's head, which was dexterously
avoided. He soon afterwards pacified the frail old man, and
passed the night peacefully in the hut. The following is a
specimen of this elegy in an English garb :

312 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

All men, O Death, thy face shall see,

And all be forced with thee to go !
Watchful and ready should we be

'Twixt Pelham high and Ewen low :
Thou makest grief in court and hall,

When at thy touch earth's glories fade ;
The ragged poor man thou dost call

For whom no mourning will be made !

Friends of my heart ! and shall not this

Make all our thoughts to Heaven tend ?
Society a candle is

That flames away at either end !
In Scotland, where*s a humbler man,

O Ewen than thy father's son ?
And in all Britain, greater than

This Pelham — save the King, was none !

His elegies are mostly of the solemn. His descriptive
poems are spirited and true to nature. The Song of Winter is
one of his best. We subjoin two stanzas :

Hpw mournful in winter

The lowing of kine ;
How lean backed they shiver,
How draggled their cover.
How their nostrels run over

With drippings of brine,
So craggy and crining

In the cold frost they pine.

POETRY AND MUSIC. 313

^ris Hallowmas lime, and

To mildness farewell I
lis bristles are low'ring
With darkness o'erpowering,
And its waters aye show'ring

With onset so fell ;
Seem the kid and the yearling

As rung their death knell.

To sum up, it may be said that in the properties of true
poetic fertility, of wit and humour, when he is playful, eleva-
tion of sentiment when he is solemn, soundness of moral
principle and moral feeling when he is serious, we may place
him as a bard beside the most popular of the minstrels of
his country, and if we dare not say that he stands the first of
(jaelic bards, we may say with Mackay of Melness, himself
a bard,

With every judge of poet's fame

Rob Donn's will live a deathless name.

Songs and Mllodies connectkd with the Countv.

In addition to the airs interpolated into the biography
of Rob Donn, we submit the following specimens of
melodies which he composed to his own songs and laments.
The county has produced not a few musicians, who have
given us many pretty melodies and stirring airs. To this
county we are indebted for the first collection of Gaelic
vocal music that we possess ; we refer to the Collection of
the Rev. Patrick MacDonald of Kilmore, Argyll, a son of
Rev. Murdoch MacDonald, of Durness, whose death Rob
Donn laments so sorely. This musician was born in Durness

314

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

in 1729, and died in 1824. In 1781 he issued ** A Collec-
tion of Highland Vocal Airs, never hitherto published, to
which are added a few of the most lively Country Dances or
Reels of the North Highlands and Western Isles, and some
Specimens of Bagpipe Music." The woik contains two
hundred and twenty specimens of Gaelic music.

Song and Melody by Rob Donn.

(Ach ma ni thv hnm^nu.)

»T /. d Id .,8, : n, .n, I d : t, .d I r .,t| : 8, .t, I r : d . I

/.t, 1 1, .t| :d .r In :n .r I d

:t,

|1. :-.}

Lv{ JB .n:d .nls :B.nlr .,t| : s, . t, I r : d . I

. t, I l,.t. :d .r In :n .r I d

{.t. I

:t.

1. :-.

His brother, Joseph MacDonald, was born in Strathnaver
in 1739, and died in the East Indies about 1762. He
assisted his brother Patrick in compiling his Collection, and
left in MS. a Collection of Pipe Music, which was published
long after his death (1803), by his brother.

The well-known Queen's piper, Angus Mackay, was

POETRY AND MUSIC.

315

connected with the county by birth or "parentage. In 1838
he published a Collection of sixty Pibrochs, which are highly

A Love-song and Melody by Rob Donn.

{Thig Ealasaid Mhoraidh 'n uair chromas a ghrian.)

KiTA.{-d |r •" Jr If :" -f |8 -8 -f I" •- }

i:d Ir :n :r |f :f :1 Is :- :- |d :- I

|:d Ir :n :r |f :n :r Is :f :n

f :-

}

J:r Id :1, : 1, |d :

- :r n :- :- r :-

/:pu;|d : 1, : 1, |1, :-

: r Id : 8, : S| I B, : - l

D.S. and Fine.

|:r |d :1, : 1, |d :- :r |

: r I n : - : - | r

valued — and the work, being now out of print, commands a
high price. Mackay was accidentally drowned in the river

3i6

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Nith in 1859. A nephew of Angus, Donald Mackay, was
piper to the Prince of Wales, and was allowed to be the best
piper of his day. He died only a few years ago. Among
the present exponents of bagpipe music, natives of the
county occupy a leading place, so long as we have among

Duke of Sutherland's March.

^JM^^^^^I ^ ,^jjr.^Jp ^

m I . n 1 1„1,.- : l,.,t, I d.,1, : t, .8, | f „8,.- : 8,.,1, | t,.r : d,t,.l,.8 . }

J I li .,t, : d .,r I n .,r : d . n I r,d.ti,I | : 8| . t, | d .1, : 1, .

i . t, I d .,r : n .Fjd 1 8 .d : n .r^l t,.r :8.,n |r.d.t,J i :8ul,.t„8 , 1

/I d .,r in.Tjd |8 .d :n.rjd I r,d.ti7l i: 8, . t, |d . 1, : 1,

/ . t, I d .,n : l|.d | li.d^r : n .i\d I t,.,r : 8,.t, 1 8,.tj^ : r .d^ti I

ild ^ : 1, .d |l,.dj;:n .r,d| rAt,.I i: 8. . t. |d .1, : 1,

POKTRV AND MUSIC.

317

US Pipe-Major Robt. Sutherland, Hamilton, and Pipe-Major
John Mackay, Paisley, 93rd Argyle and Sutherland High-
landers. Among modern poets and composers, we find
Mr. Eric Mackay, son of the late Dr. Charles Mackay,
and Mr. J. Lindsay Mackay of Glasgow.

Mackay's Slow March.

=3=£:a

Sbtj. d' I d .r : n .f | 8 .n i d.n lr :d |d :-.tal

^mm

l.sid'.l |8.n:d.n|f :r |r : -.si d .r :n .f |b

.n:d.ta

}

I Li5 • ^ I Lid • ^ '^ Ul ' LjL I L1 * HJ! I ^ • ^ Id:-.

g "lr"fJ=^T?^ ^^^^

^ ta| 1 .8 : d' . 1 I s .n :d . ta| 1 :8 |8 :-.ta\

i I I /

i I Ks : d^l I s_£\ : d_^ I ta : r I r : -.tal 1_^ : dU j sjn : cLtal

1 1 L5 • LI I s_£! • ^ -"^ I LJ] • Li I l1 • !lil I n ; d I d : -

Vip

318

SUTHERLAND AND THE RKAY COUNTRY.

There is not a collection of Highland music but contains
several tunes claiming connection with Sutherlandshire. We
subjoin a list of tunes which are to be found in a work
published by Messrs. Logan & Co., Inverness, and known as
Fraser of Knockie's Collection.

Dornoch Links.

(Mnrch.)

-fif CnrJrcr i rJJg^

i«»|:d|J|B:d |n:r£i|B:d |d:dU|s:d |n: rjnl l:r|r }

^:rKf|8J:8^|n:i\d|n :8|d':n|f :1 |r :B^|n:d|d

iVr r^f^f^af ^rr\r^f

|;b |d':- |B:U|d^•8^|n:l^d|d•:-|8J:fl^n|f:^|r I

m f-rt!\rrtr^v^=^^m^

.J:d' |d':- |B:U|d':8^|n:i\d|f :1 |r :8^|n:d|d}

Q-rnr r r

|:t |d':- |8:U|d':B^|n:i\d|d';-|8J:8£!|f:r|r }

{:t |d':- |8:U|d^B:Lf |n:ivd|f;l |r i^f I n:d |d||

POETRY AND MUSIC. 319

FRASER OF KNOCKIE's COLLECTION.

Briogais Mhic Ruaraidh — MacRory's breeks.

Caisteal Dhunrobainn — Dunrobin Castle.

Mac Aoidh — Lord Reay.

Mor, nighean a' Ghiobarlain — Marion, the Knab's Daughter.

Nighean donn a' buain nan dearcag — Maid of Sutherland.

Rob Donn — Rob Donn Mackay, the Poet.

Ribhinn Muinn ^ibhinn og — Beauty charming young and fair.

We cull the following from a collection of pipe music
published by Wm. Gunn, Glasgow, in 1876.

WM. gunn's collection of pipe music.

Am Boc glas — The gray Buck.

Baintighearna Bhigeis — Lady Bighouse's Reel.

Baindiuc Chataobh — Duchess of Sutherland's Reel.

Brigis 'Ic Ruaraidh — MacRory's Breeks.

Bruachan Mheilinis — Braes of Melness.

Caileagan Ghaillspidh — Golspie Lasses.

Caileagan Bhaile-dhuthaich — Tain Lasses.

Caisteal Dhunrbbainn— Dunrobin Castle.

Chuireadh mnathan Dhuthaich Tc Aoidh — The Reay

Country Wives.
Lingis Dhornaich — Dornoch Links.
Mac Aoidh 'n oidhche 'rugadh Sebnaid — Birth of Lord

Reay's Daughter.
Maraichean Ghaillspidh — Golspie fishermen.
Morair Mac Aoidh — Lord Rea/s Jig.
Nighean a'bhodaich a bha'n Eadrachaoilis — The Maid of

Eaddrachilis.
Port Bhunailidh — Helmsdale, a jig.
Port-siubhal Diuc-Chataobh — Duke of Sutherland's March.

320

SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Port-siubhal Iain 'Ic Eachainn — John Mackay of Skerry's

favourite quickstep.
Port mor Iain 'Ic Eachainn— John Mackay of Skerry's

favourite reel.

Soiridh 'Ic Coinnich le Cataobh — MacKenzie's farewell to
Sutherland.

Mackenzie's Farewell to Sutherland.

KKJ f : d I 8, : s, : S| 1 n : - : d I r : n : s | n : r : d I

1^=

/I 8, : 8, : 8| In : -:r Id : 1, : 8, 1 1,: -:d| s,: 8,: s, |n: -:d I

S^j ^ i jjjr ^

i|r:n:8|n:r:d|r:n:8|n:-:r|d :1, :8, |8, :-||

>>— - ^ -,-4-

j : nj Is : - .d : 8 1 n : r : d I 8 : -.d : 8 1 n : r : d i

11 8: -.d: 8 |n: r:d| n: -: r |r:-:ruf|8:-.d:sln:r:d I

:cz

i|n:8:d|n:r:d|r:n:8|n:-:r|d :1, :S||8, :-

RELIGIOUS HISTORY.

By Rev. Auam Gunn, M.A., Durness.

I. — DRUIDISM.

Druiuism was the earliest system of religion in the British
Isles. Cassar mentions Britain as the seat of the Druids, from
which it would appear that it attained to its fullest develop-
ment on British soil. The Druids were priests and legislators,
judges and teachers ; they also practised medicine and
soothsaying. As to their tenets, it is now generally admitted
that they taught the doctrines of the immortality of the soul,
and of future rewards and punishments. They also practised
human sacrifice occasionally, and they held the oak (Gr. drus)
in great reverence.

The remains of this system are among us to the present
(lay.

(i.) Druidic circles are found at the following places in
the county : at Badnabay in Eddrachillis ; at Corrie in
Rogart ; at Clachtoll in Assynt ; and between the Mound
and Morvich in Golspie. A good specimen of a vitrified
fort is on the hill of Creich, and according to some antiquar-
ians, these forts mark the sites of Druidic sacrificial rites.

(2.) Certain words and practices among the natives of
Sutherland, as elsewhere throughout the Highlands, can be
explained only by reference to this Sun-worship. The moral
significance of the Gaelic terms for north and south may be
cited. Tuathy north, gives an adjective tuathail^ which means

322 SUTHERLAND ANn THE REAY COUNTRY,

wrong, morally and physically ; while deas, south, yields
deiseal, which is right or opportune in every sense. Bealltainn
and samhuinn, the first of summer and winter respectively,
and the customs associated with these in certain quarters,
point in the same direction. The use of Chuhan as the
native-name for the village where the parish church stands
(compare Clachan in Farr) is probably to be attributed to a
lime when people actually worshipped at the stones Certain
superstitions also may be traced to this era. A boat going
to sea should turn sunwise if the fishing is to be successful ;
and in burying the dead, care must be taken to approach the
grave sunwise. These are doubtless relics of a Pagan age,
when the sun was an object of worship. This system
prevailed in the far north until the sixth century of the
Christian era.

II. — The CuLDtES.
It is probable that Christianity entered the south of
Scotland in the train of the Roman legions. But the
influence of Rome did not extend to the northern Picts.
These were found in a state of heathenism when Columba
came over from Ireland in 563 a.u. After establishing his
college in lona, he paid a visit to Brude MacMeilchon, King
of the Picis, whose residence was on the river Ness.
Adamnan, the saint's biographer, relates the difficulties which
St. Columba encounlered from the Afagi, meaning, no doubt,
the Druids. But, in the end, he prevailed, found access to
the King, and converted him to the Christian faith. The
way was thus opened up for the spread of the Gospel among
the Northern Picts, and the Culdees, as Columba's followers
were called, eagerly undertook the work. Their mt?dus
t>/^rjni/i seems to have been as follows: — They first selected

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. 323

a suitable site — an island by preference — for building their
bee-hive cells. They next turned attention to agriculture,
for the establishment must be self-supporting. In this way
they civilized, as well as Christianized, the rude barbarians.
Some time would thus be spent in settling themselves in
their new quarters, and in gaining a knowledge of the dialect.
In the southern counties, where the Dalriadic colony from
Ireland had previously settled, they would not require an
interpreter. In the north it was different ; the Celtic speech
of Pictland was more nearly allied to the Brythonic than to
the Goidelic branch, and Columba required an interpreter
both in his negotiations with King Brude, and in the con-
version of the Skye Chieftain Art-brannan.

As was natural, the chief opposition came from the Druid,
for his influence waned in exact proportion to their success.
The chief soon discovered that he had little to fear from the
presence of the Ceiedei, but a good deal to gain. Columba
look care to secure the favour of the native chieftains at the
outset ; and so when Cormac and his followers went to the
Orkney Islands, they brought with them a recommendation
from the Pictish King to the Orkney regniHox the protection
of their lives. This accounts for the quiet manner in which
Culdee settlements were effected in the far north. There is
no record of any martyrdom, save that of St. Donan, who was
killed either in Kildonan, Sutherlandshire, or more probably
in the island of Eigg ; and he fell a victim rather to the
avarice of a native chieftainess, than to the intolerance of
the old faith.

There is hardly a parish in the county which has not
some relics of Culdeeism. The most popular saint, judging
from the topographical record, was St. Columba, whose name

324 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

is enshrined on the north coast in Coomb Isle, and in Kil-
colmkil in central Sutherland. St. Donan, a contemporary
of Columba, may have laboured in Kildonan, where some
Irish authorities say he lost his life. Culmaillie, in Golspie,
and Kilmacholmaig, and other Kills in the county, such as
Hailenakill, Durness, all point to Culdee worship. Saint Bar,
the patron saint of Cork, may have preached for a time in
Dornoch ; for the festival of St. Bar was held as a fair or
term day down to the sixteenth century. His church existed
probably in ruins in Robert Gordon's day (circa 1630). Kin-
tradwell, from St. Triduana, who also figures in Orkney
dedications, is another saint name of later times ; and the
inference may safely be made that a Culdee establishment
existed once upon a time in every parish in the county.
Towards the close of the ninth century, the people were
completely civilised. Hamlets sprung up in the vicinity of
the monasteries, and civilization made rapid progress. It was
now that that scourge of early Celtic Christianity — the Norse
invaders — broke loose upon Scottish shores, and for more
than two centuries enveloped the land in heathen darkness.
The counties of Caithness and Sutherland came early under
their sway, owing to the proximity of Orkney. The Culdee
establishments were plundered, and the ecclesiastics slain ;
and when, in 1150 a.d., the church was again established in
the county, it was no longer a Culdee church, but a well-
organised Romish hierarchy supplanted the primitive Colum-
ban order and continued until the Reformation,

III. — Roman Catholicism.

The story of the gradual decay of the Columban church
is outside the limits of this paper. As a matter of fact, its

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. 325

disappearance in Sutherland was due more to the successive
Norse invasions, than to the aggressions of the Papal See.
When the North became more settled, and the Norse Earls
came under the sway of the Scottish Kings, Romanism had
made sufficient progress at court to become the recognised
religion of the land. There is abundant reason, however, to
conclude that it was regarded by the native Celts of Suther-
land as a foreign importation. No Celtic name appears
among the early Bishops of Caithness ; and so hostile were
the Celts to the new system, that it was found expedient to
remove the Bishop's residence from Dornoch, the Cathedral
seat, to Halkirk in the vicinity of Thurso. The Norse Earls
promised a certain amount of protection to the Saxon
ecclesiastics, and being now Christianized themselves since
1000 A.D., they made good their promise to the Scottish Kings
when it suited themselves.

The first Bishop in authentic records is Andrew, 1150
A.D. King David I. — that "sore saint to the Crown " — gave
him a grant of land, called Hoctor Comon. His diocese was
co-extensive with the old Earldom, including Sutherland and
Caithness. He seems to have been a good deal about the
Court of David, and his name appears in the charters of the
period. In 1165 he witnesses a charter of Gregory, Bishop
of Dunkeld. In 11 81 he signs Earl Harold Maddadson's
grant of one penny to the See of Rome from every inhabited
house in Caithness.

The next Bishop was John. He refused to collect
" Peter's Pence," and got into trouble in consequence. On
27th May, 1198, Pope Innocent III. enjoins Bjarni of Orkney
and Reginald Gudadson, King of the Hebrides, to compel
him on pain of censure. About this time Caithness was taken

326 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

from Earl Harold by William the Lion, and given to
Reginald; but in 1202 Harold regained possession, and took
vengeance on the Bishop by cutting out his tongue and eyes.
He lived until 12 13. The King heard of these things, and
came north with a great army to ** Eysteindal, where Sudrland
and Caithness meet." Peace was made on condition of
getting every fourth penny found on all the land of Caithness.
The place where they met is not located with certainty ; the
probable locality is modern Dalharald, not far from Loch
Naver, which would at that time be the boundary line
between Katanes and Sudrland. The ** King's Stone," or
Clach-an-righ, erected there points to this spot as the meeting-
place.

The third Bishop, Adam, a man of low birih, was con-
secrated by Malvoisin, bishop of St. Andrews, in 12 13. He
made a pilgrimage to Rome in 1218. He exacted the
Church revenues too harshly. " By an old custom a spann
of butter for every twenty cows was paid to the bishop by the
husbandmen. He reduced the number of cows first to 15,
then to 12 and finally to 10, exacting in every case the spann
of butter." In 1222 the Katanes men complained to Earl
John, who in vain attempted to induce the Bishop to be
more moderate. The irate husbandmen assembled at
Hakirk in Thorsdale (the Bishop's seat at that time), threat-
ened violence, and notwithstanding the intercession of Rafn,
King William's iogmadr, burned the Bishop in his own
kitchen. King Alexander IL took fearful vengeance on the
leading perpetrators by cutting off the heads of eighteen of
the murderers.

The fourth bishop, Gilbert de Moravia, appointed in 1223,
was by far the ablest and most enlightened representative of

RKI.KIIOUS HISTORY. 327

the Papal See in Sutherland. It was he that built the
Cathedral church at Dornoch. There was a monastery there
before 1158, for we find King David stipulating with
Rognvald for the protection of the Monks of " Durnach in
Katanes" during the disturbances of Harold Maddadson,
the Earl of Caithness. Very soon after the appointment of
Bishop Gilbert,, he set about the task of extending the wor-
ship of God in his diocese. At his own expense he built a
cathedral, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. He saw this
structure completed, the glass of which is said to have been
made at Sytherhaw (Sygurd's Hoch), west from Dornoch.
Gilbert's Charter of Constitution is still preserved, and pub-
lished in Sir William Fraser's "Sutherland Book." The
Chapter, modelled on Elgin and Lincoln, had ten members,
of whom the Bishop was chief. The Sutherland churches
were Clyne, Dornoch, Creich, Rogart, Lairg, Farr, Kildonan,
Durness, Golspie, and Loth. The church of Dyrnes
(Durness) was bestowed upon the Cathedral to find light and
incense. From this it is evident that he was a splendid
organizer. . Several things conspired to make his rule a
successful one for church development. First, he was a
native Celt, from the ancient kingdom of Moray — whose
Celtic Maormors were powerful enough to set the Scottish
Kings at defiance. His countryman, and probably his
relative, on the breaking up of the Moray province by King
Malcolm Canmore, secured possessions in Sutherland. This
was Hugh Freskyn, the progenitor of the Earls of Sutherland.
He was liberal in bestowing land upon the Cathedral ; and
from the fact that Bishop Gilbert, whose will was extant in
1630, left some territory to his lay brother, Richard de
Moravia; it would appear that Hugh Freskyn's gifts of land

328 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

were made to Bishop Gilbert personally, and not to the
Church. At any rate, certain transactions in the assignment
of Church lands took place about this period, which formed
a bone of contention for many years between the Church
and the successors of Freskyn, the Sutherland Earls. Hugh
Freskyn died in 12 14 and was succeeded by William— the
first Earl of Sutherland. It was during his time that Gilbert
flourished as a successful ecclesiastic, builder, and agri-
culturist. The Bishop's Castle at Scrabster was built by him,
and he is said to have discovered a mine of gold in Durness
in the lands belonging to his bishoprick. He died in 1245
and was subsequently canonized. As late as 1545 John
Mackay of Strathnaver makes oath to the Earl of Sutherland
in the Cathedral Church at Dornoch " over the Gospels and
relics of St. Gilbert.'*

St. Gilbert was a man of mark, and left his impress on
the rude generation in which he lived. Before his time only
one priest ministered in the church at Dornoch, owing,
he says, to the poverty of the place, and the hostilities of the
times. But before his death peace and order prevailed in
his diocese, and the Romish Church had good reason to
canonize him, for it was to him mainly that Roman Catholi-
cism owed any measure of popularity which the system ever
secured in Sutherland.

He was succeeded by William, the fifth bishop of the
See, whose signature is adhibited to the document of Alex-
ander HI. in the defence of the liberties of the Scottish
Church.

Walter de Baltrodin succeeded him. He was a canon of
Caithness, and his election was not regular, but Pope Urban
in 1263 offered no objections.

RKLIGIOUS HISTORY. 329

He was succeeded by Archibald, Archdeacon of Moray,
in whose time the old dispute about the church lands came
to a crisis between himself and Earl William, but it was
amicably settled. About this time a general collection was
made throughout the diocese in behalf of the Crusaders,
and it is interesting to discover in Theiner*s Monumenta in
the Vatican the Sutherland churches which contributed, and
the amount. Under date 1274 a.d. we find Ascend (Assynt)
contributing 5s. 4d. ; Haludal, gs. 4d. ; Dyrness (Durness),
14s. 8d Again in 1275 Helwedale contributes 9s. 4d. ;
Ra (Reay), 9s. 4d. ; Kildoninave, 2 marcs. The Caithness
churches which contributed are Olrig, Thurso, Dunnet,
Canisbay, Hakirk, I^theron.

Aiati, an Englishman, was the next bishop. He was a
tool of Edward I. He signed the letter to the King propos-
ing a marriage between the maid of Norway and young
Prince Edward.

Adam, the ninth bishop, was precentor of the church of
Ross, but he died in a short time, and was succeeded by
Andrtiv^ Abbot of Cupar, 1273 — ^Z^^- "Because of wars
imminent in those parts, and dangers of the way, which are
long and perilous, it is impossible for him to approach the
Apostolic Seat for consecration; therefore a mandate was
given to the bishops of Aberdeen, Glasgow and Ross to
consecrate him."

Ferquhard, the next bishop, acknowledges in 13 10
Bruce's title to the crown (1301 — 1328). In 131 2 he
witnesses the payment of 100 marks sterling by Robert the
Bruce to the King of Norway for the Hebrides.

Oi Nicolas and David^ who succeeded him, nothing is
known.

I .

330 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Alan was confirmed in 134 1. He was Archdeacon of
t Aberdeen.

\.\ Thomas Murray de Fingask^ confirmed in 1342, d. 1360.

Malcolm succeeded him in 1369.
» Alexander Afan, 1389, appears by proxy in Perth Synod,

j 1420.

Robert Strathbrock^ i444'

John Innes, dean, 1447.

Robert was bishop in 1434, and

William Moodie (1445 — 1460) was still in oflice when,
in 1469, the Orkney Islands were ceded to the crown of

I •

' ♦ Scotland.

About this date a vacancy occurs for 24 years, when the
See was governed by Adam Gordon, dean and parson of
Pettie. John, the ninth Earl of Sutherland (1508 — 15 14),
who inherited the mental malady of his father, was his con-
temporary, and his affairs were likewise in the hands of Adam
( Gordon.

J Andrew Steivart was the next bishop of Caithness, and

he acted as Treasurer for the Earl of Sutherland. An idea
of the income of the Sutherland Earls may be gained from
the fact that at this time the total income from the Property
Lands amounted to ;£^i03 4 8 yearly, and from Tenantry
Lands £\\'] 13 4.

Andrew Stnvart, son of John, Earl of Atholl, next ruled
the See. He instigated the Clan Gunn to slay the Laird of
Duffus. The dean of Caithness, who was the Laird's brother,
in retaliation, seized the vicar of Far, and imprisoned him at
Duffus (1518^-1542).

Robert Steivart was the last administrator of the See. He
^^s born in 15 16, and ws^s brother of Mathew, Earl of

KKLI<;iOUS HISTORY. 33 1

Lennox. He was created Earl of March 1579. He died at
St. Andrews in 1586. The Reformation had taken place
before this, when he became a Protestant, and gifted away
much of the rents of the See of Caithness, and the priory
of St. Andrews.

The rental of the Sutherland Estates had, by the time
of John, the tenth Karl (1535 — 1567), amounted to jC666
13 4. But great difficulty was experienced in securing the
teinds, and the church lands proved a bone of contention
still. In 1548 Sir Robert Stewart, the last bishop, got the
Earls of Sutherland and Caithness, and Mackay of Ear, to
promise to help him by force to secure the teinds. But the
end of Roman Catholicism was drawing near. lu 1558 such
progress did the principles of the Reformation make in the
North — or the Lutheran heresy^ as the Church dignitaries
called it — that a congregation of nobles was formed, with the
Earl of Sutherland as one of them. Earl John was present
at the Edinburgh ('onvention of 1558 demanding reforms of
the Queen Regent, and took a prominent part in the work
of Reformation. It is a pity that the nobles who were so
eager to adopt the Reformation did not provide for the
religious instruction of the people on the downfall of the old
church. They were quite prepared to seize the patrimony of
the church, but they were reluctant to provide ordinances
out of the funds which fell into their hands. The rapacity
of the nobles in thus secularizing the property of the Church
is a slur upon the Scottish Reformation. When the Papal
Jurisdiction was overthrown in 1560, the Church was very
wealthy ; two-thirds of its revenues went to provide for the
Romish dignitaries while they lived, and the remaining third
to provide ordinances until more livings became vacant.

33* SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

Knox had hoped to apply the revenues of the Church for
the purposes of educaUon, religion, and the poor ; but in this
he was frustrated. The territorial magnates— some of whom
were eager to throw off the Roman yoke — kept a firm hold
on the revenues ; and when we add to this the difficulty ot
securing educated men for every vacant parish, there is no
wonder that for fifty years after the Reformation only the
most meagre provison was made for the religious instruction
of the people.

RELIGIOUS HISTORY OF THE REAY COUNTRY
AFTER THE REFORMATION.

By Rev. J. S. Mackay, Port- Augustus.

Chapter II.

The first minister, so far as can be ascertained, who was
settled on this coast, was Mr. Alexander Munro, who was
ordained and inducted to the charge of Durness. He was a
native of the burgh of Inverness, and the son of a dyer.
When a young man, he had the privilege of hearing the
celebrated Mr. Robert Bruce of Edinburgh, who was
confined for a time, by King James VI., to Inverness. The
crowds that attended on Mr. Bruce's ministry while there
were immense. People came in great numbers from Nairn-
shire and Ross-shire, and even from Sutherlandshire. It was
by no means uncommon for people from Golspie and the
districts around to walk all the way to Inverness, and to
consider their labour and fatigue abundantly repaid if only
they got within hearing of Mr. Bruce on the Sabbath. The
Earl and Countess of Sutherland went there, and remained
for a month under his ministry, and reaped therefrom the
salvation of their souls. Mr. Alexander Munro was also
converted under Mr. Bruce's ministry. He gave early
evidence of the reality of the great change he underwent, by
living a life of earnest and close communion with God. On

334 SUTIIKKl.ANri AfJIl THK KKAY COUNTRV.

one occasion, while thus intensely exercised, he thought he
heard, as it were, a voice urging him to devote himself to the
lx>rd's service in the work of the ministry. On reflection, he
attributed this impression to some vain imagination of his
own heart, as he knew himself to be altogether unqualified,
and thought himself unsuited for such an office. For a time
he managed to drive the idea from his mind. But again, on
two different occasions, the impression returned that he heard
1 a voice in imploring tones urging him to devote himself to

I the ministry of ihe gospel. On the last of these occasions

he was led to understand that the sphere of his labours was
to be Durness in the Reay country. Regarding all this as a
call from the Lord, he could no longer decUne. He entered
the University of Aberdeen ; made very rapid progress in all
his studies, and was ultimately licensed to preach the gospel.
Soon therefore the way was opened up for his coming to
Durness, and he was ordamed and inducted into the charge
of that parish. Whether he was preceded there by any other
settled minister it is difficult to say ; but there is a probability
that the congregation was gathered and formed into a
Presbyterian charge before his induction. The daLe of his
ordination is not recorded. He died in 1643. But as Mr.
Bruce was in Inverness about 1605, and as Mr. Munro's
family were grown up and some of them married before his
decease, his induction must have taken place in the early
years of the century, or some tifty years after the establish-
ment of the Reformation under Knox.

On his induction to the charge of Durness, he soon dis-
covered that the ignorance of the people was the chief
barrier to his usefulness and success in the work intrusted to
him. To remedy this, he set about the cultivation of the

kKI.KlIOUS HISTORY. 335

poetic talent, of which he had a considerable share. He
versified large portions of Scripture in Gaelic ; and composed
hymns descriptive of creation, the fall, and the work of
redemption, etc. He gave these to the people, who sang
them together at their winter evening gatherings and at their
work during other seasons. He thus inaugurated a mode of
instruction which was afterwards effectually followed up by
others, — notably by Mr. John Mackay, tacksman of Taobh-
beg, Mudale, at the head of Strathnaver. It was hearing the
Mackay Fencibles recite Mackay of Mudale's hymns that
first suggested to Dugald Buchanan the composition of his
own very beautiful Gaelic poems.

The Lord very graciously countenanced Mr. Munro*s
labours in the ministry, and made him the honoured means
whereby a large harvest of souls was gathered in to Christ.
Notices of this appear in the then Presbytery Records of
Dingwall, or of Ross. The blessing bestowed upon Durness
under his ministry extended in some measure to neighbouring
districts. His hymns were sung in all of them, and long
after his decease were known as ** Laoidhean Mhaighstir
Alasdair," — Mr. Alexander's Hymns. It would thus appear
that God was pleased to make use of human hymns in this
instance, as He did of those of Luther, for the diffusion ot
gospel truths among a people who were uneducated and who
had not the written Word ; and through them gave instruc-
tion, guidance, comfort, and encouragement to multitudes of
His people. Highlanders of those days did not esteem
human hymns to be the objectionable and awfully corrupting
things they are now supposed to be.

Mr. Munro was evidently held in high esteem among his
people, and must have enjoyed the same among county

336 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY

families, inasmuch as his daughter Christina married Mr.
John Mackay of Achness in Strathnaver. This Mr. Mackay
/' became afterwards Captain of the Clan Macka}', and went by

the complimentary title of " Lord John," and she by that of
*i "Baintighearna Cursty," /f. I-ady Christian. He too who

l'^ was Bishop of Caithness during the ascendency of Prelacy

in the period immediately following Mr. Munro's death,
esteemed the influence of his piety to be so great among the
people, that he thought it would be a great gain to Prelacy
if he could succeed in getting his son, the Rev. Hugh
Munro, over to Episcopacy, and made rector of Durness.
In this he succeeded, but found afterwards that Mr. Hugh,
who wa'5 really a good man, made but aii indifferent prelatist,
as is seen from notices in the records of the Bishopric of
Caithness.

Towards the close of Mr. Alexander Munro's ministry at
Durness, Mr. George Squair became minister of Edderachilis
and Kinlocbbervie. It cannot now l>e ascertained what
provision was made for him in the way of temporalities,
After the Reformation, the lairds and great men of the period
laid hold of all the Church lands they could get within their
power. These and other possessions of the Church were
taken by some at an earlier, and by others at a later period.
The extensive possessions of the Church in Assynt were not
taken possession of by the family there until after the death
of the last Episcopal minister, a Mr Gray. He died shortly
before the ordination of Mr. Scobie, the first Presbyterian
minister of Assynt after the Revolution Settlement. But
whatever the means may have been whereby Mr. Squair was
supported, he was appointed as colleague to Mr. Munro at
the time mentioned. He was a man of God, faithful in all

RKLHilOUS HISTORY. 337

that related to his office, and the Lord set His seal very
manifestly upon his ministry.

Mr. Munro, as noticed before, died in 1643 a.d., and so
escaped the times of persecution. Not so Mr. Squair. He
experienced great hardships and had narrow escapes during
that bloody period, that has so stamped prelacy with
indelible disgrace. After labouring successfully and in peace
for many years in his charge, he was at last pounced upon,
and hunted over mountain and glen, because of his faithful-
ness to Presbyterianism, and to the cause of the covenanted
Reformation in Scotland. He was at this time the only
Presbyterian minister in the Reay country. Though thus
alone, and in the midst of many dangers, he nevertheless
resolved on administering the Lord's Supper to as many of
the faithful among his people as would venture on meeting
with him. To do so was considered a greater crime than
holding conventicles or maintaining field-preachings. He
therefore went about it very quietly and cautiously, and took
council with a few godly followers as to where and when it
should be observed. There are two places in the parish
where the people were wont to assemble for this purpose, —
one in Edderachilis proper, named "Larach nam Bord," at
**Airidh nan Cruithneach," above Scourie ; the other on the
march between Oldshoremore and Drumnaguy, in Oldshore-
beg, at a spot between Captain Mackay's house and the
rising ground to the north. These places, however, were
not considered in the circumstances safe from interruption.
They chose, therefoie, a more secluded spot in the neighbour-
hood of Rhicoinich, at the head of Loch Inchard, and
between the little hamlet and Loch Garbad. When the

spot was fixed upon, the few with whom he took counsel

33^ SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

were enjoined to exercise the greatest prudence in diffusing
the information, but to give to such as ihey might confide in
an opportunity of being present. On the Sabbath appointed
they assembled to the number of five score. These were
the more devout and faithful in all the hamlets of Edder-
achilis and Kinlochbervie. They approached the place as if
by stealth, with feelings greatly agitated, but with hearts
rising in earnest supplications that the Lord might grant
them His protection and gracious presence. When they
came to the place, they found themselves in the centre of a
glade overgrown with birchwood, and sheltered by wild and
beetling rocks. The pulpit desk was a birch tree, sawn off
at a considerable height, and the tables were formed of
turf covered with green smooth sod. The service was
opened with singing and prayer, and after reading and a
short exposition, and again singing, Mr. Squair took for his
text the words of Thomas when delivered from his unbelief,
" My Lord, and my God." The whole service was a memo-
rable one. The Lord was the " shield and the exceeding
great reward " of His people that day. Not only was there
no interruption of the service, but all there felt so much of
the Lord's presence, and their bonds were so loosened, and
their fears so dispelled, that all, without a single exception,
felt constrained to say with Thomas, " My Lord, and my
God,'* and without exception commemorated the dying love
of their Redeemer. Many years thereafter, at a communion
season in Badcall, Scourie, during the ministry of Mr. Brodie,
Mr. Squair's successor, there was also a time of similar
blessing. Addressing one of the oldest and most godly of
his elders, Mr. Brodie asked him whether he ever before
experienced a more impressive season. *' Only once,** said

RELHilOUS HISTORY. 33()

the aged patriarch, *'at the memorable communion of Rhic-
oinich, when Mr. Squair preached with his Bible placed
before him on the stump of a tree ; and when the five score
present — of whom I am the last remaining one — sat down at
the Lord's table, exclaiming * My Lord, and my God.'" It
was long believed that Obsdale, in the parish of Rosskeen,
was the only place in the north in which the sacrament of
the Lord's Supper was administered during the twenty-eight
years' persecution. It will be seen, however, that the parish
of Kinlochbervie divides with Rosskeen that honourable
distinction ; and it is possible there may be other places
which have a right to a similar claim, although the fact may
now be buried in oblivion.

Mr. Squair found himself oftentimes hard pressed. His
persecutors, whenever they got trace of him, were immedi-
ately in pursuit. His followers were thus obliged to seek out
all manner of hidden paths to wait upon him, and all manner
of secret places wherein he njight minister to them the word
of life. When pursued on one occasion, and as he was
passing the hut of one of his people, with his pursuers close
behind, he saw a girl weeding potatoes, then beginning to
be raised in lazy beds (or/e(i/i//(ijt,^ii//J as a garden vegetable.
He knew not whether he might trust her to shield him in
any way, but he spoke to her, and asked what she was doing.
" Weeding potatoes," she said. '* And have you," he asked,
" while so working, any thoughts about the interests of your
soul?'' " Ves," she said, "while weeding the potatoes I
am praying the Lord that He may weed the love of sin out
of my heart." " If that be so,' said Mr. Stjuair, "you will
try to conceal me from my pursuers, who are close behind,
and try to abstain from falsehood while shielding me."

340 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

"Come quickly, then," she said, "and lie down in the deep
furrow between the beds, and let me cover you with the
weeds." This was scarce accomplished, and she set to work
again, when the pursuers appeared. They asked her gruffly
if she saw Mr. Squair pass that way lately. She said she did
see him not long ago come in the direction they
themselves came in, and stand where they stood ; and it
they were active that they were very likely to apprehend him
before long. They set offiramediately, exulting over tha'r
prey as if already within their grasp. No sooner were they
well out of sight than Mr. Squair was liberated from under
his hiding of weeds, and, after being refreshed with food, he
set off in the opposite direction, and thus escaped in safety.
He was at last joined by three godly witnesses from the
south, who hoped, but in vain, that coming so far north they
might for a time escape the fury of the enemy. They first
landed in the parish of Lochbroom, and preached here and
there as they found opportunity, or a people that could
understand them, and passed on through Coigeach and
Assynt till they joined Mr. Squair at Edderachilis. On
their arrival both he and the faithful among his people
became bolder in the service of their Master, and those who
were on the alert to arrest him did not feel themselves suffi-
ciently strong lo do so. .A. military party was therefore sent,
by orders of the Bishop of Caithness, under command of an
officer determined to execute his commission. His instruc-
tions were to lake Mr. Squair and his companions, alive or
dead ! He and his friends had no help for it but to fiee for
protection where they might. The four set off by the passes
between Foinne bheinne, Kinlochbervie, and Ben Spionn-
aidh in Durness. Eluding their pursuers, they passed over

RKLIGIOUS HISTORY. 34 1

the slopes of Ben Hope, and reached the House of Tongue,
expecting Lord Reay to afford them shelter and concealment
for a season. The Mackay, however, influenced by his
uncles, the Mackenzies of Seaforth and Pluscardine, was
pledged to the Government, and so could only express his
sympathy by not apprehending them. He made a show,
indeed, openly of having apprehended them, but, after
refreshing them, he secretly ordered them to proceed beyond
his bounds. They met with similar treatment from the
Mackays of Strathy and Bighouse. Depressed, wearied,
and worn out, they now made their way for Ulbster House,
the residence of the Sinclairs of Ulbster, a family known to
be favourable to the cause of the Covenanters. Here they
were kindly received, and concealed for some time in a
vault or unused place. The fact, however, of the presence
of suspicious parties in the castle began to be whispered
about, and Sinclair found that soon he would be unable to
shield them from the power of the Bishop. Every possible
means for their safety was anxiously discussed. At last
Sinclair determined on sending a private and faithful
messenger to the Earl of Sutherland, requesting him to
receive and shield these wanderers and sufferers for con-
science* sake. The Earl and Countess were in great diffi-
culty about the matter, as they failed in trying to protect
their own minister, the Rev. John MacCulloch of Golspie.
If, however, Mr. Squair and his companions could be con-
veyed to Dunrobin in secrecy, their protection as strangers
and unknown, and for whom there might be no inquiry in
that quarter, was possible. On receiving this reply, Sinclair
embraced the opportunity of calm weather and dark nights,
and got them conveyed by sea to Dunrobin. He got a

342 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

boat, manned by the best rowers and most faithful men he
could pick out. They rowed all night, and lay hidden dur-
ing the day in some of the numerous creeks along the coast.
They arrived at last at Dunrobin, and delivered up their
charge to the Earl of Sutherland. They were kindly
received, but somehow the Earl was suspicious that after all
they might be spies sent by some of the prelates, or those in
authority, to ensnare him and other families suspicious of
being favourable to the cause of Presbyterianism. He com-
municated his fears to the Countess. She said she would
soon discover whether or not they were true men. She
therefore after dinner requested the strangers to conduct a
private prayer-meeting, and an exercise of thankfulness for
their preservation so far. During the meeting and through-
out all the exercises the Lord's gracious presence was so
manifest, that the suspicions of the Earl, who was present,
were completely removed, and he immediately set about
providing for the concealment and safety of his guests.
There was a cave in Golspie burn, partly, it is said, the work
of human hands, which was so completely shaded by trees
and close underwood, so out of the ordinary route of people
passing, and moreover so dry and roomy, that it was determ-
ined to make use of it as their hiding-place. Here they lay
concealed for a long time, amply supplied with all things
necessary to their possible comfort in such a situation. Nor
was there any one engaged in conveying their provisions, or
aware of their presence there, found mean enough to make
it known. The day ot deliverance, so long prayed for, came
at last. The deceptive indulgence granted by James II.
would have set them free ; but whether they embraced that,
or whether it was known to them, is not said. But so soon

RKLICIOUS HISTORY. 343

as they were free, they proceeded to Dunrobin to pour forth
their hearts in thankfulness for the protection and all the
other kindnesses they received during the time of their trial.
They further declared to the Earl and Countess their full
persuasion — as they believed from God — that there was not
an inch of the land in the county, and in the hands of the
Assynt family, and that of the Mackays of Reay, over which
they were pursued, and from which they were driven, but
would yet be in the possession of the family of Sutherland.
This saying of theirs was known all over the country, and
handed down through the several generations ; and as said,
so it happened.

Mr. Squair never returned to Kinlochbervie or Edder-
achilis. Like many others, the great mental strain and
bodily sufferings endured told upon his constitution, which
was so utterly broken down that he was unable to undertake
the duties of his charge. He went and stayed with one of
his family. His son is said to have lived and died at
Dornoch. A daughter was married to a Mr. Munro from
Ross-shire, who rented a farm that is now embraced in the
Dunrobin home farm. She was the mother of the godly Mr.
George Munro, who was the third minister of Farr after the
Presbytery of Tongue was erected, and one highly honoured
of God in the work of ingathering of souls to Christ. Mr.
Munro^s name, and the date of his induction and death, are
to be seen on the back of his pulpit, which still remains in
the Farr Church. Mr. Munro was married to a daughter
of the Rev. John Mackay of Lairg, who was a near
if not the immediate successor of Mr. Squair in the
wide district of Durness, Edderachilis, and Tongue.
He was translated thence to Lairg in 17 14, a.d., and was

344 SUTHKRI.AM) AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

succeeded in Durness by Mr. Brodie, already mentioned.
We already noticed that Mr. Squair*s health did not permit
him, after the Revolution Settlement, to return to the scene
of his former labours on the north coast.. The only minister
in the Reay country at that time was Mr. Hugh Munro,
Durness. He was the son of Mr. Alexander Munro, the
first Presbyterian minister of the country, of whom we have
already given a short sketch. Mr. Hugh Munro was a man
of culture, of mild temperament, of decided Christian char-
acter, and evangelical. He was a graduate of King's College,
Aberdeen, and was ordained as incumbent of Durness by
the bishop and clergy of Caithness, at Watten, on the 20th
January, 1663.

It is not known under what influences, or motives, he
was led to conform to Episcopacy ; but it was manifest
throughout his career that he had done so reluctantly, and
was ever an indifferent Episcopalian. He was censured
again and again for his non-attendance on the diocesan
meetings of the clergy, and did not take the test until 1682.
He retained his benefice at the Revolution Settlement, and
continued thereafter sole Presbyterian minister of the Reay
country until his death in 1698. Tradition, with persistent
but strange inaccuracy, connects with his name an incident
that occurred really in connection with his father*s ministry ;
and as it gives us a vivid glimpse into the social condition
of the times, and shows to us the lawlessness with which the
ministers of the gospel were then confronted, it may be of
interest to relate it briefly here. The district over which the
minister of those days had oversight being so very extensive,
he often took up his abode, for months at a time, at its
either extremity. Mr. Alexander Munro being on one of

RKI.IOIOITS HISTORY. 345

these occasions entertained at Tongue by Sir Donald Mackay,
— afterwards the first Lord Reay — was called upon in the
course of duty to visit some district to the west. Such were
the times, that Lord Reay did not consider even the messen-
ger of peace safe without an armed attendant. Mr. Munro,
however, did his work unmolested, until on his return
journey he came to the river Hope, beside which there lived
a noted character of that period — a Donald MacLeod, who is
better known as Donald 'Ic Mhorchaidh 'Ic Ian mhbr. This
man, now in extreme old age, had been a powerful and law-
less ruffian, whose hands were stained with the blood of no
fewer, it is said, than eighteen murders. To us now it seems
unaccountable, almost inconceivable, that any country or
condition of society could bear for any time the tyranny of
such a fiend in their midst. But he was a convenient tool
in the hands of others, who were equally bloody-minded,
though they took care not to appear so outwardly. Mr.
Munro felt it his duty to speak to this lost and lawless
sinner, if so be he might lead him in his old age to some
sense of his sin, to repentance, and to the knowledge of the
Saviour. Instead, however, of this, Donald took deadly
offence at being so spoken to, and were it not that the
infirmities of age and the fear of an armed attendant pre-
vented, he would as readily have shed the blood of the
evangelist as he did that of his many former victims.
Donald's two sons — men of physique and spirit akin to his
own — were absent. On their return, the father charged
them instantly to follow the minister, and not show face in
his presence without the heart of him who so insulted him.
They went in pursuit, but on nearing Mr. Munro they were
challenged by his attendant, who was armed with a much-

346 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

lock, whereas they had none, so they thought discretion the
better part of valour. Fearing their father even more than
the matchlock, they killed a sheep, and took with them its
heart, which they presented to him instead of the minister's.
He viewed it attentively, and said, " Ah well ! I always
thought the Munrofs cowards, but never knew until now
that they had the heart of a sheep." The tomb of this
ruffian is to this day an object of interest to all who visit the
old church of Durness. It is built in a recess of the south
wall of the church ; and the tradition is that Donald, on
doing some deed of violence, was taunted that soon his own
carcase would be thrown into a pit, be covered with sod,
and trampled upon by the meanest of God's creatures. The
proud spirit, to avoid this dishonour and indignity, as he
reckoned it, offered to build that side of the church at his
own expense, if allowed to make a vault or recess in the wall
for his coffin, and thus prevent any one from trampling on
his grave. His offer was accepted, and there he was interr-
ed. The inscription on his rough tombstone is as follows : —

" Donald Mhic Mhorchaidh Heir lys 1^
V'as il to his friend, var to his f6
True to his maister in veird and v^.

D. I M I M I C I 1623."

As Mr. Hugh Munro died in 1698, in the 59th year of
his age, and so was not born for some years after Donald
was dead and buried, the above incident must have occurred,
as we have said, in connection with his father's ministry, for
whom the old church of Durness was built in a.d. 16 19.

From A.D. 1698 until 1707 there is no trace of any
minister being in the Reay country. This gap of nine long

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. ;;|.7

years is certified by the notice of a reference to the ('om-
mission by the General Assembly, March 28, 1704, "to send
a probationer having Irish (or Ciaehc) to Caithness Presbytery,
with special eye to Durness.'' Acts of Assembly, 1704.

At this point, however, the Lord was pleased to raise up
and send forth as His servant in the ministry, a scion of one
of the leading families of the country, and one of the ablest
ministers of the gospel the Reay country has seen. In a.d.
1707, the Rev. John Mackay, son of Captain William
Mackay of J^orley, and cousin of (leneral Hugh Mackay who
fought the battle of Killiecrankie, was ordained and inducted
as minister of Durness. He was an M.A. of Edinburgh,
and thereafter studied in Utrecht, Holland. His name has
been handed down from generation to generation as being
eminent for his piety, and was as noted for his physical
prowess as for his learning. He was also a strict and stern
disciplinarian, such as the times so loudly called for ; and was
aided in this by the influence he wielded as a member of one
of the leading families -a chief family of the Clan Mackay —
the Scourie family. Tradition has handed down several
stories illustrative of the man, and of his times. The
ministers of those days oftentimes wielded civil and magis-
terial authority as well as ecclesiastical and spiritual. But
their chief work, and most arduous, lay in catechizing the
people. The (|uestions and answers of the Shorter Catechism
were enjoined to be repeated in every family on the Sabbath
evenings, and every member of each family was expected to
learn them. The minister went to every hamlet, collected
the people, usually to the largest, most respectable, and most
convenient house in the district, called each family in rota-
tion, and the members of each family by name, to repeat

34^ SITTHERLANP AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

these answers : and to be examined on their undersiandinj,'
of the truths they conveyed. These catechizings were the
principal means of the people being educated in the great
and leading truths of their salvation ; the means also that
afTorded the best opportunity of educating their minds and
consciences in the principles of morality, and of enforcing
the application of these principles to their every day life and
conduct. There was a varied interest attached to the pro-
ceedings of thesi.' meetings that led the people to an attentive
appreciation of what they were taught, such as could not be
secured by the mere preaching of the gospel among them ;
and mighty, indeed, under the blessing of God, was the
change effected in the minds and manners of the generations
that followed from the times of the labours of the early
pioneers of the gospel in the Reay country. In every gener-
ation, however, perhaps in every district, there would be
found rude and lawless characters who submitted neither to
this nor any other mode of instruction ; and, indeed, the
bringing of the people as a whole under the benign influences
of the truth, and of the principles of morality, was then, as
in everj' age, a \ery gradual process.

The thoroughness of Mr. Mackay's work and character is
illustrated by many anecdotes lold of him and handed down
by tradition. Catechising on one occasion, a poor imbecile
or idiot member of a family examined was not presented
with the others. Mr. Mackay asked if there was no other
member of the family. He was told there was, but it was no
use noticing him, as he was a poor creature without his
natural faculties. " Call him," said the minister ; " he is one
of God's creatures, and He is able to convey His own truth
to his mind, however defective he may be." One of the

RELIfilOUS HISTORY. 349

questions asked was, " Have you a soul ?*' ** Xo,'' answered
the idiot. ** Had vou ever one?" " Ves." ** And what
has become of it?" asked the minister. **(iod knew that I
was not able to keep it, that I would only destroy it, so He
has taken it into His own keeping," was the answer. The
examination and answers of the poor idiot turned out to be
the subject of deepest interest in that day's proceedings. At
another time Mr. Mackay was answered by a rough character
in such a way as was evidently intended to turn the subject
into ridicule. A second answer had been giveti in the same
way ; cjuick as lightning the powerful hand of the minister
was laid upon the collar of the offender, and a castigation
administered as would have been done to a child. The
ridicule was now turned altogether the other way. The
minister became a hero, and never again did rudeness show
face in his presence at catechizings. The sternness and im-
partial character of the dicipline he enforced is illustrated by
an incident that happened in his own family On account
of some negligence or other, one day water for Sabbath use
was not secured on the Saturday. The servant girl, with the
connivance of her mistress, took the kits to the spring and
brought in the needed water. The action was observed and
spoken of by the neighbours. On the minister hearing of it,
it was laid before the session ; and he retired that they
might come to an independent finding with respect to the
dicipline to be exercised and administered. The finding was
that the servant girl must stand in presence of the congrega-
tion on the Sabbath, with the water kits one on either side,
and thus acknowledge the offence and be admonished ; and
the minister was requested to admonish his wife privately.
Mr. Mackay was indignant at the [xartiality shown to the

350 SUTHKHLANII ASK THK Kl

mistress, so the finding had to be the same for both, and
Mrs. Mackay had to stand l>cside her servant witii the ii'ts,
to he admonished. I^t us hope that the minister was char-
itable and in a lender mood when the admonition was given,
and that he ajjiwrlioned the guilt impartially 1 Mr. Maekay
ivas translated to l.airg in A.n. 1714. He was grandfather
to the late Mr. John Mackay, R<K'kfield, and great-grand-
father to the late Mr. Sage, Resohs.

Mr. Mackay, as was noticed, was minislcr of Hurness for
only seven years— from A. I). 1707 to 1714; but this short
experience led him lo see how utterly impossible ii was for
one man to overtake the work of the niinislry throughout so
wide a district, or exercise any appreciable influence for the
general good of a people whom he could see only occasion-
ally, and at long intervals. 'I"he parish was from fifty to
sixty miles in length, and from ten to twelve miles in breadth,
and within its bounds were from 3000 to 4000 souls needing
instruction in Divine things, and indeed in all things that
pertained to civilized life. Their condiiJon weighed heavily
upon his mind, and he made strenuous efforts to meet their
needs by raising "an action for disjunction, modification,
and locality" of the parish before the Lords of Council and
Session. But interested parties raised objections to this,
and, after considerable loss in the way of expenses, he was
doomed to disappointment and failure. This doubtless
made his translation to Lairg a welcome relief. In the
following year, a.d. 1715, Mr. George Brodie, a licentiate of
the Inverness Presbytery, and connected with the Brodiesof
Brodie, was ordained as minister of Durness, by the Presby-
tery of Caithness. Every tradition of him, and written
notices still extant, show him to have been pre-eminently a

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. 35 I

man of prayer, able and cultured as well, and greatly inter-
ested in the spiritual instruction and well-being of his people.
A few years' experience led him also to see that it was alto-
gether beyond the power of any individual minister to satis-
factorily overtake the work required. He therefore moved
in the same direction as Mr. Mackay, but first brought the
matter before the Presbytery and Assembly of the Church.
The Assembly acquiesced, and ordained a collection over
the whole Church, to help to make provision for two addi-
tional ministers. Authority was also given to Mr. Brodie
and the Presbytery, and an action raised before the Lords of
Council and Session at their instance, and that of the Advo-
cate-Procurator of the Church, for the disjunction of the
parish into the three parishes of Tongue, Durness, and
Edderachilis, with the limits of each respectively defined.
The disjunction was effected in a.d. 1724; and the general
collection made amounted to ^^1800. Lord Reay, who was
member of the Assembly at which this was announced,
undertook, on condition of receiving this money, to erect
suitable ecclesiastical buildings, assign glebes, and contribute
so much yearly as stipend to the ministers of the new
charges. This arrangement being satisfactorily completed,
Mr. Hrodie elected to move from Durness and become
minister of the newly erected parish of Edderachilis. Two
years thereafter, in 1726, Mr. Murdoch MacDonald, a native
of Fearn, Ross-shire, and graduate of St. Andrews, was
ordained minister of Durness. Immediately after his ordi-
nation a Presbytery of Tongue was erected by order of
Assembly ; and consisted of four parishes, disjoined from
the Caithness Presbytery, viz. Farr, Tongue, Durness, and
Edderachilis ; and two disjoined from Dornoch Presbytery- -

352 Sl'THK.KI.ANIl AN[> THK RKAY COirNTRV.

Kildonan and Assynt. In the same year the Caithness
Presbytery was disjoined from tlic Synod of Orkney, and the
Dornoch Presbytery from the Synod of Ross ; and the
three Presbyteries were erected into the Synod of Sutherland
and Caithness. The parishes of Kildonan and Assynt were
again restored to the Presbytery uf Dornoch in the year i 727
and 1736 respectively.

In Mr. Brodie's action for disjunction, the great difficul-
ties met with in travelling through the country are referred
to. and, doivn to about a century later, there was not a single
yard of good road to be found in it. In this matter there is
now a great change ; still its natural features make travelling
now, as then, very tedious and arduous at any time ; and
during stormy weather it is made an impossibility. As an
illustration of what it was in the middle of last century, we
read in Mr. MacDonald's diary that, having on one occasion
during rough weather to go to a meeting of Presbytery for
the purpose of translating the minister of Edderachilis to
Tongue, he became ill, through over fatigue, ere he reached
the west side of Loch Eriboll, and could proceed no further.
An express, however, was sent to him from Tongue, saying
that the corresponding member from Dornoch Presbytery,
without whom they could not have a quorum, would not
cross the ferry to the farther side of 1-och Eriboll. The
Lady Reay, who was deeply interested in the settlement,
was therefore to send a boat for him, and by " her positive
orders he must come over all impediments to the Presbytery
seat." Alarmed at the thought of rounding Whiten Head
in an open and small boat, he sent the messi^nger back im-
mediately to stay their coming. Bui during the night the
ho3X3St\wsd vi'il)\ /father bed and />/<i»kt/s, 3.n^ the boatmen

RKLKHOITS HISTORV. 353

had orders to take no refusal, but to wrap the minister in
these and convey him to the Presbytery ! ** However sur-
prising," he says, " and disconcerting this command, finding
the sea so very mild in the morning, I came off early, and
before twelve o'clock we arrived at Tongue."

The social condition of the country at the period of its
history which we have now reached -a.d. 1736, was consid-
erably modified and improved from what it was at the be-
ginning of the century. The knowledge of Divine truth
was spreading among the people, and influencing their
thoughts and habits socially, -their intelligence was being
raised, and their moral habits bettered. As yet, however,
the common people had no opportunity of learning to read ;
and while this continued, great ignorance must have prevailed
among them. The gentry, and tacksmen generally, were
educated men, and some of them well read ; and because of
the many bonds that bound the people to them, we find that
the intelligence and character of the several communities
were very much a reflex of that of their tacksmen, or of the
families of their chiefs resident among them. About a.d.
1740, the ministers interested themselves -especially Mr.
MacDonald of Durness— in establishing schools throughout
the country, and many years had not passed when the good
results of these were manifested in improved moral and
social habits.

Religiously, the condition of the people was somewhat
peculiar, and illustrates how slow the growth and gradual the
development is of the kingdom of heaven among a people.
A goodly number of men were gathered into the bosom of
the Church,- men who, throughout the several communities,
were living witnesses for Christ. Some of these were from

354 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

among the tacksmen — men who had served in the army, and
were men of breeding and education. But the greater num-
ber of them, whatever their natural intelligence, were men of
no education. The difficulty, however, of overtaking the
religious wants of such wide districts necessitated the making
use of these men as elders and catechists among the people ;
but, naturally, in many instances — perhaps with the greater
number — their zeal outran their knowledge, and they became
filled with too high an idea of their own importance. The
Fridays of communion seasons, set apart as it seems from an
early period as the " Men's " day, became oftentimes the
occasion of scenes that were anything but edifying. The
sacrament of the Lord's Supper was at this time observed
within the bounds of the Presbytery only in one congregation
in the one year, and going thus the rounds of the congrega-
tions consecutively. This afforded an opportunity to all the
leading professors in the country to meet once a year ; and
on the Friday there was oftentimes an exhibition of all
manner of rivalries and jealousies, and expression given to all
kinds of dissatisfaction, whether well-grounded or otherwise.
Mr. MacDonald's testimony is that "it was ordinary at such
conventions to start (questions, either frivolous or ill-stated,
and to allow ignorant people to harangue on them at random,
perhaps without touching at all, or very superficially, on the
subject in debate, while the ministers present allowed them,
without control, correction, or direction, to ramble on in
their undigested stuff." In some instances, unfortunately,
the ministers afforded them an occasion of inveighing against
themselves. This was especially the case with respect to
him who was minister of Farr from a.d. 1733 to 1753. He
was a Mr. Skeldock, who was presented to the living

RKLIi;iOUS HISTORY. 355

by Mackay of Slrathy, and translated from Kilnionivaig in
Lochaber. He was a thorough worldling, and esteemed by
the people as more of a cattle drainer than a minister. He
was again and again admonished by his Presbytery and Synod,
but to no effect. His elders and leading men absented
themselves from his ministrations, and with them the body
of the people, and hekl meetings of their own throughout
the several hamlets in Strathnaver. This secession of the
people awakened a great interest among themselves, and
culminated in a religious excitement that became very
intense.

There are conflicting accounts with respect to the char-
acter of Mr. Skeldock in the latter years of his life. Mr.
MacDonald in his diary makes mention of him as hopeless ;
but other accounts speak of his having undergone a great
and saving change, and that the last yeais of his ministry
were blessed to not a few. He died in a.d. 1753.

In 1754, the Synod of Sutherland and Caithness enjoined
that the sacrament of the Lord's Supper should be observed
yearly in all the congregations of the J'ongue Presbytery ;
and to prevent the unseemly occurrences formerly frequent
on the " Men's ^ day, they recommended the observance of
the solemnities to be on the same day in all the congrega-
tions. This, however, was considered impracticable, so it
was ordained that Scourie and Tongue should observe it on
the same day ; and then Durness and Farr. This arrange-
ment is practically that which is still followed.

After Mr. Skeldock's decease, Mr. George Munro, grand-
son of Mr. Squair of Edderachilis, was presented to the living
of Farr. As formerly noticed, the patronage of the parish
was alternately in the hands of the Earl of Sutherland and

35^ SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRV.

the Mackays of Strathy. Mr. Munro being the presentee of
the Sutherland family, he received scant courtesy at the
hands of the Strathy family. He was, however, an evangel-
ical preacher, and in the latter years of his ministry a man of
great piety, of marked power in prayer, and greatly blessed
of God in his work. He had three preaching stations —
Achness, in the heights of Strathnaver, Farr, and Strathy.
A tradition handed down of an incident in his ministry',
illustrates both the rudeness of the times, and the way in
which God ever honours the faithful ministers of His gospel.
When, after his induction, Mr. Munro went to preach at
Strathy, he was the guest of the Mackay family. The
younger members of the household, seeing, no doubt, the
feelings entertained towards him as the presentee of the Earl
of Sutherland, thought themselves at liberty to play upon
him one of their practical jokes, — especially so as they saw
him to be a simple and gentle mannered man. Mr. Munro,
though considerably fatigued with his Saturday journey, was
detained from rest until late in the evening. When all was
quiet, the young men went and built up the outside of the
window with sod, in such a manner as to exclude the faintest
streak of light. Being weary, he slept on until late, and then
lay long awake, waiting, as he thought, for daylight. The
people assembled and waited for some time, but there was no
appearance of the minister. One or two of the leading men
went to the house of Strathy to ascertain whether really he
had come. The situation was now made plain. Mr. Munro
hastily prepared himself, and, without breaking his
fast, went to meet the congregation. Never during his
ministry, it is said, did he realize so great power in preaching,
and so much of the Loid's presence It was a day of great

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. 357

things — of marked revival in the Church, and of a numerous
ingathering of souls to Christ.

A few years before Mr. Munro's death, Mr. William
Mackenzie was settled at Tongue. His ministry continued
for the long period of 65 years. He was a man of fine per-
sonal appearance, evangelical and pious ; and was the father
and grandfather respectively of Messrs. Hugh and William
Mackenzie of Disruption fame. His parents had a small
farm near Tain, and both father and mother were excellent,
judicious persons, and greatly esteemed for their piety. Their
home was a favourite resort of the godly during communion
sea.sons. On one such occasion, the leading stranger present,
as was then usual, and as in some places still is, was asked to
conduct family worship. It was equally usual for him who
did so to ask the most elderly person present, and most
esteemed for piety, to say what portion of Scripture was to
be sung and read. On the Monday of this communion Mrs.
Mackenzie requested that the portion sung should be in the
sixty-eighth Psalm, where it says,

*' God's chariots twenty thousand are,
Thousands of angels strong"," etc.

After worship was over, and an hour or so spent in private
prayer and meditation by the many worthies present, the
hour for public worship came, and, as the guests were
departing, one aged saint asked her why she requested the
aforesaid psalm to be sung. ^* Because," she said, " they are
the chariots that very soon are to conduct you to the eternal
Presence, where there is fulness of joy, and to His right
hand, where there are pleasures evermore." He was at the
moment in good health, but took ill while crossing the Meikle

358 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Ferry on his way home after service, and died that same
evening.

Mr. Mackenzie was greatly esteemed by the godly people
of Strathnaver while he was yet a young man ; and an inci-
dent in his histor)', while connected with Achness, is related
of him, which shows at once his studious habits, and the
intelligence and liberality of the worthies of that period. He
was appointed to preach at Tongue on a certain Sabbath,
with a view to his being presented with the living. His dis-
course was fully written, and he sought to engrave its con-
tents on his mind, as he journeyed on the Sabbath morning
from Achness to Tongue. When he came to the Ee — or
ford — between Lochs I^yal and Craggie, the stream proved
somewhat deep, and the wind boisterous. In crossing, he
stumbled, and somehow his manuscript slipped out of his
hand and was carried away. He was in great distress, as he
had anything but mastered his subject, and his anxiety did
not help his remembrance of it. As he came near to the
church, he was met by one of the most eminent of the men,
who received him kindly. After friendly greetings, he stated
his trouble to this aged worthy, and told him he felt
altogether unfit for the services of the day. ** Well, let us
carry the trouble to a Throne of Cjrace," said the saint of
<7od. After a short retirement, the old man returned, and
encouraged him by saying " he felt assured that, as he had
diligently prepared himself, the Lord would stand by him,
and that He would not allow him to be put to shame
although by accident he lost his paper I " And so it was.
The Lord so enabled him to preach that day, that he became
endeared to all the excellent in the congregation, and the
presentation was hailed with delight. But while there were

RELIGIOUS HIST«)RY. 359

a few excellent and eminent for piety among the congrega-
tion, the great body of the people were ignorant and rude,
wild and godless in their habits. Especially did their drink-
ing customs and their Sabbath conduct deeply affect him.
In those days, and until a comparatively recent period, the
short English service was inserted in the middle of the
(laelic. Mr. Mackenzie noticed that many of the (iaelic
people who retired at the commencement of the English
service returned at its close in a half-drunken state. On one
occasion, having a stranger friend with him, he requested
him to go and observe the doings of those who retired at
the close of the first (iaelic service. The report was sad in
the extreme. He was witness to all manner of bargainings
about cattle, etc., and to the buying and selling and partaking
of strong drink. On the following Sabbath, when the people
as usual rose to retire after the Gaelic service, he asked them
to resume their seats for a little, as he had something to say
to them. He then made known to them what he had for long
observed, and that he was aware of their doings while the
English service proceeded. He exposed the godlessness of
their conduct, the danger to which they exposed themselves ;
and urged upon them the duty and nature of a true repent-
ance and of turning to God for forgiveness, with such deep
earnestness and tenderness, that many were broken that day,
and many cast themselves upon the pardoning mercy of God.
So deep was the impression made, so great the power of God
in their midst, that it was said that no fewer than thirty souls
dated their conversion from that exhortation ; and for long
thereafter there were added to the Church now and again
such as were the fruits of that revival.

It was immediately after this period, when so many wer«;

360 SUTHERLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRY.

added to the Church through the labours of Mr. Munro and
Mr. Mackenzie, that the " men's " meetings, both on Fridays
of communions and at other times, became so popular, and
so honoured in the building-up of those who, by the ministry
of the gospel, were gathered in to Christ. The parishes of
the Reay country — especially Strathnaver— became noted at
that time for the number and excellency of its outstanding
men. Innumerable are the tales and anecdotes and sayings
concerning them, that discover their genius and piety, and
the beauty of the spirit they cherished and manifested toward
one another. At first, indeed, Mr. Mackenzie and some
others were jealous of the tendency of their meetings, but for
a period of at least two generations — i.e. for sixty years, from
1780 until Disruption times -the ministrations of these godly
men assisted largely both to maintain and extend the influ-
ence of the gospel throughout the whole country.

Beyond their ordinary and stated meetings and "readings"
in outlying hamlets, they for long cherished the beautiful and
salutary practice of question meetings on the way to and
from church. As there were only four churches in so wide a
country, with a few outlying preaching stations that were but
rarely visited, the distances to and from regular services were
necessarily long for the greater number of the people.
Certain halting places on the way, in the different localities,
became thus gradually recognised as spots where the people
might rest and refresh their bodies with food, and their .souls
by starting some Scriptural and edifying question, on which
the " men " discussed, touching on points doctrinal, experi-
mental, and practical. On the home journey all had to
contribute some " note " from the sermon. This tended to
sustain their attention and deepen their interest in all the

REIJGIOUS HISTORY. 36 1

services of the day, and was oftentimes made instrumental in
applying the truth with saving power to individual hearts.

These brief sketches of the religious history of the Reay
country would be very incomplete without special notice of a
class of ministers who were signally successful in establishing
and building up the cause of Christ, in the more isolated
corners of the district. They were known as ordained
missionaries. About the year 1760 a.d., or immediately
thereafter, it was felt that, notwithstanding there being now
four fullycHjuipped charges in the countr>', and these consti-
tuting a Presbytery of the Church, still they were inadequate
to overtake the religious wants of so wide and so populous
an area. There was need of further help The same need
was felt in many parts of the Highlands, and recognised by
the whole Church. It was to supply this want that the
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge was instituted ;
and a special grant assigned from the Royal Bounty. The
missions created in the Reay county were -Achness in the
heights of Strathnaver : Melness ; Eriboll ; and Kinlochbervie
in Edderachilis. In the good providence of God, a succes-
sion of men, eminent for their piety, and some of them for
their natural gifts and attainments as well, supplied these
missions up, we may say, to the time of the Disruption.
What constituted one mission had two or more preaching
stations that were supplied Sabbath about. Achness, and
Achow in the heights of Kildonan were one ; Melness,
Eriboll, and Kinlochbervie, another. The Achness mission
was supplied by such men as Mr. Wm. Mackenzie, after-
wards minister of Tongue, and to whom special reference has
already been made. Mr. Macgillivray of Lairg ; Mr. David
Mackenzie of Farr, and Mr. Donald Sage of Resolis, whose

362 SUTHERLAND AJ>fD THE REAY COUNTRY.

interesting " Memorabilia " was lately issued from the press.
The mission of Melness, Eriboll, and Kinlochbervie was not
less favoured. It had a succession of men acknowledged of
God, and greatly blessed in their labours, — men such as Mr.
Robertson, afterwards of Kingussie, and known as the great
Mr. Robertson ; Mr. Neil M*Br>'de, afterwards of Kilmory,
Arran ; and Mr. Kennedy, afterwards of Killearnan, and
father of the late Dr. John Kennedy.

Shortly after Mr. Robertson was ordained and inducted
as missionary at Eriboll, it was resolved that the Sacrament
of the Lord's Supper should, for the first time, be adminis-
tered there. It was appointed for midsummer. The season
was oppressivMy hot, and the drought excessive. The
Eriboll district is naturally of a dry and arid soil, and with
such a season all the streams, and ponds, and even springs
were dried up. There was not a drop of drinkable water to
be got within a great distance of Camus-an-duin — ^'' the bay of
the fort ^' where the people assembled for worship. When
the Friday came, which with the Sabbath constitute the
chief days of a communion season in the north, the day was
one of scorching and exhaustive heat, but it brought with it
a great multitude of people, who came from Durness, Kin-
lochbervie, and Edderachilis on the west ; from both sides of
Hope, from Melness and Tongue on the east, and from the
heights of Strathnaver to the south-east. The place of
meeting was one of great beauty, and the surrounding scenery
of great grandeur. In front was a beautiful bay ; behind,
and on each hand, the hills rose to a great height, and
formed a kind of amphitheatre, their sides being clothed
with natural birchwood. To the right of the ministers' tent
there stood the ruins of an old fort.

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. 363

It being a first communion in that spot, and a great
number of eminent men being gathered together, the scene
was altogether a memorable one ; but especially so because
of the Lord's presence being so manifestly with them. There
was no moving away of any of the people from the long
continued services, though many of them were faint and
parched with thirst After all the speakers were done, the
venerable patriarch, eminent for piety, who gave out " the
(juestion," was called upon to pray. In doing so he evidently
enjoyed great nearness to the Lord, and the multitude, so
deeply impressed during the day, were now overpowered and
their hearts united as one, when they heard him plead that
as " the Lord gave them so richly that day of the water of
life to quicken, refresh, and sustain their souls. He might
now be pleased to send them supplies of earthly water, from
the heavens above or earth below, to refresh and sustam
their bodies, as it was the intention of the multitude, though
fainting for lack of water, to continue with Him still for
three days, until the solemnities of the communion season
were brought to a close." After the singing of a psalm and
pronouncing of the benediction, the people were dismissed,
and retired to enjoy the homely but unstinted hospitality of
the district, and in companies to unite again in evening and
morning prayer-meetings in the several hamlets.

On Saturday, when the people began to assemble for
public worship, they observed, to their great amazement and
deeper joy, a stream of water issuing out from behind the
tent and among the stones of the gravelly or sandy beach.
Whether the spring was opened and the water made to gush
forth as from Horeb of old, or whether there before and
only now discovered, it matters not ; it was looked upon, and

364 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

for long thereafter named, among the pious as Tohar freag-
radh urnuigh — ** the spring answer to prayer ; " and it con-
tinues to this day to refresh and supply the wants of storm-
beaten sailors, who often, by stress of weather, are driven to
take shelter in the land-locked bay.

Mr. Robertson was followed in the mission by Mr. Neil
M*Bryde, — a man in every way a contrast to Mr. Robertson,
still one who was greatly honoured in the work of his Master.
Mr. M*Bryde, unlike Mr. Robertson, was not a man of much
mental culture or ability ; but like, in that he was of earnest
spirit and fervent piety. Many of the leading Christian men
of the Reay country about that time were gentlemen of posi-
tion. They were educated ; and many of them, having been
in the army, had travelled and seen a good deal of the world.
One such in Mr. M^Bryde's mission was Major Mackay of
EriboU. Major Mackay's daughter was wont to play the
piano. Such exercise in the home of a leading Christian
professor was considered by Mr. M^Bryde as sinful and
scandalous, and, until the practice was put an end to, he
would not so much as engage in prayer in the family when
visiting it. Major Mackay told him not to burden his con-
science with the matter, as he was thankful that the Lord
enabled him to conduct religious exercises at all requisite
times, not only in his own household, but in public among
the people as well. The difference of views and feelings
with respect to such matters came to a crisis on a New Year's
eve, when the Major gave an entertainment and dance to all
his dependents. It was his habit to do this, that he might
have them all at such a time under his own supervision, and
save them from congregating in questionable places, where
some of them were in danger of disgracing themselves with

RELIGIOUS HISTORY. 365

drunkenness and riotous conduct. Entertainment he knew
they must have, and he thought they ought to have it ki a
harmless and heahhful way, that wouki save them from it in
a way demoralizing to them. Mr. M*Bryde looked upon it
differently, and thought the Major was setting others an evil
example. He denounced the practice in public, and so the
breach widened. Excellent as Mr. M*Bryde was, and much
esteemed, still the sympathies of the good people were more
with the Major than with him. This state of matters, how-
ever, led regardless characters to play a practical joke on the
minister that was of a disgraceful kind. Mr. M^Bryde, like
as Mr. Robertson did, observed the administration of the
Lord's Supper at Kinlochbervie as was done at Eriboll.
Everything necessary was not so easily obtained then as now
He had, therefore, first to take a journey across the Aroin to
Tongue to get the bread and wine needed. On returning to
Eriboll, these, together with the communion plate, were
securely packed in creels, to be slung from a cruban and
carried on horseback. All was so placed as to be ready for
an early start next morning. After much fatigue endured,
Kinlochbervie was reached in due time, and, when the min-
ister's wants were attended to, they set about all necessary
preparation for the communion. On unpacking the creels,
both minister and elders were shocked to find that everything
had been abstracted, plate, as well as wine, etc., — and their
weight made up with stones and sod. This must have been
done during the night before starting from Eriboll, and
naturally enough —whoever the miscreants that did it — the
doing of it was attributed to the state of feeling that existed
between Mr. M*Bryde and Major Mackay. Mr. M*Bryde
and those congregated for the solemnity, determined, how-

366 SUTHERLAND AND THK REAY COUNTRY.

ever, that the communion should not be deferred. Before
the Saturday, wine and flour were secured. Mr. M*Bryde him-
self is said to have baked scones for bread, and stoneware was
used instead of plate. Though the outward provision was
thus of the humblest and most primitive kind, still that com-
munion Sabbath was a day to be remembered, -a day
whereon the Lord vouchsafed His gracious presence in a
way that filled the hearts of His people with a feast of good
things. The people of Kinlochbervie were indignant at what
was done, as being a slight upon them, as well as upon Mn
M'Bryde, so they determined to subscribe and present him
with a new set of communion plate. They entrusted the
securing of it to a Mr. Robert Mackay, who was called to
Inverness or Edinburgh, for examination in connection with
his being appointed as teacher in the district by the Society
for Propagating (,'hristian Knowledge. He bought the plate,
and got Mr. M*Bryde's name engraved upon it. But, on his
return, he found Mr, M*Bryde had left the Reay country to
enter upon his charge in Arran, and, being gone, the ardour
of the people cooled, and the collection to defray the
expenses of the plate was never made. Mr. Mackay there-
after made a present of the plate to his friend, the Rev. Mr.
Falconer, Edderachilis, and he in turn to his successor. At
the Disruption it was the personal property of the Rev.
George Tulloch, who joined the Free Church, and he in his
turn left it to the congregation of the Free Church at Scourie,
and we presume it is still used there at communion seasons.
Mr. M'Bryde was succeeded by Mr. Kennedy, afterwards of
Killearnan.

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

JOHN MACKAY, C.E., J.P., Hereford.

There could be no better plea for the preservation of a
Highland peasantry than the existence of such families as
the one to which the subject of this sketch belongs.

Mr. John Mackay, of Hereford, is a native of Rogart,
Sutherland, and is the third member of a family of seven
sons and two daughters, five of whom still survive,
and are in good positions, four having died in distant
lands. His father and grandfather were both Johns,
and locally known as " McNeills," pointing to their
honourable Abrach descent. His mother, Margaret
Sutherland, was an ideal housewife. His father was a quiet,
shrewd man, who at the age of seventeen enlisted into the
42nd Highlanders in 18 10, and retired from that noble
regiment upon its return from France in 1818; at the
Disruption he became an elder of the Free Church.

Mr. John Mackay was educated entirely in his native
parish— first under Mr. Gunn, who dared to encourage the
banned (jaclic even in school hours, and afterwards under
Mr Fraser. Being naturally clever, he received more than
a fair share of his teacher's attention, and in addition to
English and Mathematics, was taught Latin and Greek, in
which he is still proficient.

At the age of twenty he resolved to try his fortunes in
the south. That period, now over fifty years ago, was the
time of the great railway "boom," and the young Highlander

ili

368 SUTHERLAND AND THK KEAV COUNTBV,

sought work in their construction. 'I'all, strong, and
athletic, with quite a militan- bearing, had he not Tound at
once congenial employment in the industrial army, he would
prtjbahly have become a soldier, so fond was he of the
heroic and martial achievements of his countrymen, as his
fofefaihers were. Familiar with manual labour, and accus-
tomed to handle horses, he was offered and accepted
employment as the driver of a team, but was soon advanced
to timekeei>er, and then, coming more immediately under
the notice of his employer, his abilities were recognised, and
promotion was rapid, -■^t twenty-four years of age he was
made superintendent of a section of the Ilieppe line, and
remained in France during jiart of the trying time of the
Revolution of '48. Returning to England in 1848, he found
work on the (!reat Northern Railway, and the famous railway
king — Mr. Krassey — gave him, young as he was, a portion of
the line to construct as a sub-contractor. Then followed the
Shrewsburj- and Hereford Railway, the Sambre and Meuse
Railway, and other extensive engineering works at home and
abroad, in all of which he earned a well-merited reputation
for skill in carrying out arduous underLikings and in dealing
with men. He was, in fact, one of Mr. Hrassey's right-hand
men.

Arrived at middle life, his warm heart yearned to be
more helpful to his fellows in the Highlands and elsewhere,
and amidst the toil and cares incident to a large business he
still found time to consider carefully any patriotic scheme
submitted to him. None know this better than the people of
his native county, where his munificence has been princely.

In 1883 he gave valuable evidejice before the Napier
Crofters' Commission on the land question ; in 1890

niO(;RAl'HICAL NOTICES. 369

the Highlands and Islands Harbour Commission, which
secured to Sutherland several harbours and piers ; in
subsequent years he communicated interesting papers to
the Gaelic Society of Inverness on the " Place-names of
Sutherland " (vide " Transactions *'). He is a J. P. for
Herefordshire, an ex-President of the Clan Mackay Society
and the Highland Association (Comunn Gaidhealach)^ and
Chieftain of the Gaelic Society of London.

Mr. Mackay has been appropriately styled a true High-
lander, and one of nature's noblemen. Long may we have
him in our midst as a bright incentive for others to follow
his lofty example.

Rev. JOHN S. MACKAY, FORT-AUGUSTUS.

Thi subject of our notice was born in the Reay country, and
was ordained minister of the Free Church at Altnaharra in
187 1. He took part in several controversies which agitated
the county, especially the Crofter question ; and to his
initiative the abolition of Sabbath labour and hiring is mainly
due. Mr. Mackay wields a facile pen, as is evidenced from
his interesting contribution to the present work, and his
knowledge of the past history of the county is not excelled by
many. He was translated to Fort- Augustus in 1889.

370 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Rev. ROBERT MUNRO, B.D., F.R.S.E., F.S.A., Scot.,

Old Kilpatrick.

The Rev. Robert Munro, son of Hugh Munro and Christina
Mackay, was born at Mudale House, Strathnaver, on 26th
April, 1853. Educated at Strathy School, and at the University
of St. Andrew's, where he graduated M.A. and B.D., and at
the New College, Edinburgh. As a student he had a very
distinguished career. In 1878 he was appointed minister of
the Free Church at Old Kilpatrick. Since that time, besides
devoting himself to the various interests of the parish, he has
been a diligent student of the great systems of modern
theological thought since the time of Schleiermacher, of
philosophy as influenced by Humeand Kant,and of archaeology
in its different departments. In connection with his researches
in anthropology and folk-lore he has for several years been
honoured by the recognition of the principal archaeologists in
Europe and America, such as Virchow, Montelius, Mortillet,
Stephens, Rygh, Sir Daniel Wilson and Dr. Joseph Anderson.
He has contributed papers on theology, philosophy, anthro-
pology and literature to the EncyclopirdUi Britannica^ The
Quiver^ British and Foreign Evangelical Revietv, The Journal
of Speculative Philosophy^ The National Observer^ The Graphic^
The Illustrated London Nrivs^ The Celtic Monthly^ etc. In
virtue of his many literary and scientific attainments he has
been elected a Fellow of the Royal Society, Edinburgh,
a Fellow of the Society of Anticjuaries of Scotland, and a
Member of the Royal Literary Fund, London.

He claims descent from the Munros of Fowlis, and
the Abrach branch of the Mackays.

OKOKGK J L'A.MFHELL.
Sheriff ,>J Ihe f..ws.

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 37 1

GEORGE J. CAMPBELL, Sheriff of the Lews.

Sheriff Campbell is a native of Farr, Sutherland, where
his father, Mr. George Campbell, was a merchant. When but
a very young lad Mr. Campbell went to Inverness, where he
served his apprenticeship, afterwards completing his legal
curriculum in Edinburgh. Returning to Inverness he began
practice on his own account, and his sterling business and
personal qualities quickly gained for him universal respect
and confidence, his business soon becoming one of the most
important in the town. He identified himself with many of
the leading agencies for promoting the public good in the
Highland Capital, having served for a period as a member
of the Town Council, and in the crisis of 1878-79 he took
the lead in preventing the liquidation of the Caledonian
Bank. He was president and director of the Choral
Union, and held successively the offices of hon. treasurer,
secretar}', and chieftain of the Gaelic Society of Inverness.

In volunteer circles the learned Sheriff is well known, having
risen to be full Colonel of the Highland Volunteer Artillery,
and receiving the coveted Victoria Decoration for long
service. As a politician he was a strong supporter of the
Liberal party, and was agent for Mr. Gilbert Beith when
returned at last general election. It may be also mentioned
thAt Mr. Campbell is a Free Churchman, and in 1888, when
the (ieneral Assembly was held in the Highland Capital, he
acted with marked efficiency and success as purse-bearer and
secretary to the venerable Moderator, Rev. Dr. Aird of
Creich. He has not lost touch with Sutherland, being a life
member of the county associations of Edinburgh and Glasgow,

372 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

JAMES MACDONALD, W.S., Edinburgh.

It is not necessary to be born in the Highlands to be a
Highlander, for (juite a numl>er of those whose names are
most intimately associated with Sutherland affairs were not
born in the county. They are Sutherland men by descent.
There are few names more closely connected with Sutherland
than that of Mr. James Macdonald, W.S He was born in
Edinburgh in 1850. His father, Mr. John Macdonald, was
first general treasurer of the Free Church of Scotland. His
mother was Grace MacKenzie, daughter of the Rev. David
MacKenzie of Farr, and through her Mr. Macdonald is the
eldest representative of the family of the Gordons of
I^ngdale, Strathnaver. In his youth the subject of our
sketch spent a good deal of time in his grandfather's manse,
at Farr, and became greatly attached to the place and the
people. In 1870 he joined the Sutherland Association
(Edinburgh), and organized the examination for school prizes
which was carried on so successfully for a quarter of a cen-
tury, and is now superceded in favour of a bursary .scheme.
During the course of these years Mr. Macdonald has been
president, vice-president, secretary, and* is now treasurer of
this most useful association, He is also a (Governor of the
Highland Trust, representing Sutherland and Caithness.

In his own profession Mr. Macdonald occupies a high
position. He took a good place as a law student, and became
a writer to the Signet in 1874. He is a partner of the well
known firm of Auld <!^ Macdonald, W.S. ; a member of the
Juridical Society, Custodier of the titles of the Free Church
of Scotland, Depute Keeper of the Great Seal of Scotland,
and Director of various public companies.

JA.M1.> M.VLDU.NAIJi,

bio(;raphical notices. 373

Rev. ADAM (;UNN, M.A., Dltrnkss.

Strath V lays claim to the distinction of providing more
young men for the church than all the rest of the Reay
country. The above, a son of the late Alexander Ciunn and
(Christina Mackav, is one of a dozen from that district at
the present time in the ministry. He received his early
training under Mr. Anderson of Strathy Public School, a
most successful teacher. After two years in the Grammar
School, Aberdeen, he proceeded to St. Andrew's University,
^^he^e in 1881, he gained the first bursary open to general
competition of the value of ^,100. He had a distinguished
university career, carrying off several prizes and honours ;
among others, the first prizes in the classes of English
Literature, Logic and Metaphysics, and the second prize in
Moral Philosophy. While prosecuting his theological studies
at New College, Edinburgh, he took advantage of the (iaelic
class taught by Professor Mackinnon, Edinburgh University,
where he gained the second i)rize in the junior, and the first
prize and medal in the senior division. On receiving license
to preach from the Presbytery of Tongue in 1888, he was a
few months thereafter appointed colleague and successor to
the late Rev. James Ross, Durness, where he has laboured
since. Mr. (iunn takes a deep interest in the temporal as
well as spiritual welfare of his people, and has been member
of the County Council, School Board, and Parochial Board,
and latterly of the l*arish Council, of which body he is
now chairman. Besides his contributions to the present
work he has written many articles to C'eltic magazines,
including l^ie Celtk Monthly and The TraNsaitiinis of the
Jnvt'f/iess Gae/u' Sociftv.

374 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

DONALD MATHESON OF ACHANY.

So early as the fifteenth century the ancestors of Mr.
Matheson were chiefs of no small repute in Sutherland.
The clan took part in several of the numerous conflicts
which disturbed the peace of Sutherland during the sixteenth
century. The present representative of the family, Mr.
Donald Matheson, was educated at the High School of
Edinburgh, and spent some time in China as assistant in the
great mercantile firm of Messrs. Jardine, Matheson & Co.
On his return to Scotland he married, in 1849, Jane Ellen,
daughter of Lieut. Horace Petley, R.N. Mr. Matheson has
devoted himself mainly to mission work in Edinburgh and
London. On the death of his aunt, Lady Matheson of
Achany and the Lews, he succeeded to these extensive
properties. Mr. Matheson has two sons, Duncan, Major of
the Inniskilling Dragoons, and Donald, minister of the
Presbyterian Church, Putney, London.

BAILIE ALEXANDER MURRAY, C.A., Glasgow.

Among the numerous Sutherlandmen who have settled in
Glasgow and prospered, mention should be especially made
of Bailie Alexander Murray, C.A., president of the
County of Sutherland Association, Glasgow. He was
born at Rogart, and is a partner in the well known firm
of CarswcU ^: Murray, C.A. He has occupied a seat at the
Municipal Board for a number of years, and is acknowledged
to be one of the ablest and most respected members of the
City Council. He is deeply interested in County affairs.

niOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. • 375

Provost WILLIAM MACKAY, Thurso.

Provost Mackay was born at Skelpick, Strathnaver, on 21st
June, 1844. His father Mr. Donald Mackay, was descended
from a branch of the Mackays of Kinloch, and was one of
the largest and most successful farmers in the north of
Scotland. Father and son were joint tenants of the farm of
Melness, then the largest in Sutherland, part of which was
held before the clearances by (ieorge Mackay of Hope, a
relative of the family. The Provost has now given up farming.

Mr. Mackay 's business connections are among the largest
in the County. He is agent for the Town and County Bank,
Thurso, Factor for the Freswick Estates, and the Crown
Lands of Caithness, and Treasurer for the Caithness County
Council. In 1 878 he was elected Chief Magistrate of Thurso,
which office he held for fifteen years, and is now Provost of
the Hurgh. In politics he is a Liberal Unionist. He is an
elder in the Free Church of Scotland, and has frequently
taken part in the proceedings of the (ieneral Assembly. For
the last thirty years he has been Hon. President of the
Thurso V. M. C. A. He has been chairman of the Thurso
Harbour Trust since its formation, and is a J. P. for Caithness.

Provost Mackay has always evinced a special interest in
the Clan Mackay Society, of which he is an e.x-President. He
has acted as treasurer for the large fund raised on behalf of
the sufferers by the Portskerra and Talmine Fishing Boat
Disaster some years ago, and his management of this fund
has given the greatest satisfaction to all concerned.

He married, in 187 1, the youngest daughter of the late
Rev. Walter Ross Taylor, 1) 1)., Thurso, and of this marraige
three sons and three daughters survive.

37^ SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

ANGUS SUTHERLAND,
Chairman of the Scottish Fishery Board

Mr. Anous Sutherland was born at Helmsdale in 1848.
His family had been settled for many generations on the
strath of Kildonan. He was educated at the Free Church
school of the parish, where he became a pupil teacher. In
1868 he entered the Edinburgh Training College, and in
1872 went to Glasgow University, and four years later became
one of the mathematical masters at the (Glasgow Academy.
Mr. Sutherland took a prominent part in the Crofter Agitation
which some twelve years ago was conducted with such energy
in all parts of the country. In 1885 he was an unsuccessful
candidate for the representation of his native county, but in
the following year was triumphantly returned, and, till his
recent appointment as Chairman of the Scottish Fishery
Board, was a prominent and eloquent advocate of the cause
of the crofter population. He was a member of the Deer
Forests Commission, and has served on various other
parliamentary committees. He is a life member of the
Sutherlandshire associations of (Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Mr. Sutherland is still a young man, but he has already earned
for himself a prominent place among the most distinguished
Sutherlanders of the present day.

JOHN MACLEOD, M.P. FOR SUTHERLANDSHIRE.

Mr Macleoi) is the son of Mr. John Macleod, Helmsdale,
where he was born in 1863. He was educated at Glasgow,
and having studied gold-assaying, helped in working a gold
mine in N. Wales. Returning to Sutherland he practi.sed as

HIOGRAPHICAI. NO TICKS. 377

surveyor, then went to Inverness in 1888, and established the
Highland Nnvs, of which he is proprietor As secretary to
the Highland Land league, Mr. Macleod has taken an active
part in the land agitation in the Highlands. He was returned
as member for Sutherlandshire at the last election, prior to
which he was a member of the Royal Commission on Deer
Forests Mr. Macleod is a Liberal in politics.

Rkv. JOHN MURRAY,
Convener of the County of SuTHERf.AND.

There arc many points of resemblance between Sutherland
and the Island of Lewis. There is the same mixture of
Celtic and Norse blood in the population ; the same intense
love of country, and the same high morality. Among other
common features is the large proportion of young men who
enter the church as a profession. From the district of Strathy
alone, on the north coast, there are at the present moment no
less than eleven ministers in various charges throughout the
countr)' — a circumstance which cannot be approached in any
other district except Lewis, which may be said to supply to
the largest extent the ministry of the Highlands.

Among other Lewismen labouring on the mainland is the
subject of our sketch. Born near Stornoway in 1841, Mr.
Murray received the rudiments of his education in his native
parish, and thence proceeded to the Edinburgh University,
where he finished his Arts Curriculum. He received his
theological training in the New College, Edinburgh, which
he entered in 1865, and where for four years he held the
Highland Bursary. Hardly was he licensed to preach when

DUNAI,!) MLNKU.

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 379

DONALD MUNRO, M.E., MANCHESTER.

Mr. Munro was born at Backies, Golspie, on 6th November,
1846, and was educated at the local school. In 1865, he
received an appointment in connection with the Staffordshire
Collieries of the late Mr. Thomas Bantock, J.F (a distin-
guished Sutherlander), and he ultimately became (leneral
Manager of the great Wyrley Collieries. He also held a
number of public offices in the district. After about eighteen
years' service he retired in 1884 from the management, and in
the following year took chirge of the collieries and works of
the Chesterfield Coal and Iron Co., N. Staffordshire. After-
wards Mr. Munro started business in Manchester as a Civil
and Mining Engineer, and has been very successful. He is
the pioneer of an important mining enterprise in the North
of Ireland. In 1872 he married Mary, daughter of the late
Mr. Thomas Greensill, by whom he has two daughters.

HEW MORRISON, F.S.A., Scot., Edinburgh.

There are few better known men in Edinburgh to-day than
Mr. Hew Morrison, the popular chief of the Public Library.
He is a native of Torrisdale, Parish of Farr, and has had a most
distinguished career. When the Carnegie Public Library
was instituted, Mr. Morrison was appointed chief librarian.
He is well versed in Sutherland traditions and lore, and has
written a great deal on county matters, including a most in-
teresting Tourists' (iuide to Sutherland and Caithness, which
has been long out of print.

380 SUTHERLANl) AND THE REAY COUNTRY. '

JOHN MACKAY, Editor, Celiic Mosthly,

Mr. John Mackav was born in Glasgow in 1865, his father,
I )onald Mackay, being a native of Strathy, in the Reay country,
and his mother a native of Kintyre. He was educated at
(rlasgow, and when fifteen years of age entered the employ-

•

ment of Messrs. John Hunter ^: Son, Flour Merchants,
where he now occupies a responsible position. Mr.
Mackay's sympathies have always been strongly Celtic, and
when quite a youth he was a constant contributor to the
Highland press. He is well known as a naturalist, and for
several years acted as secretary to the Clydesdale Naturalists
Society. Some ten years ago he became a member of the
Cilasgow Sutherlandshire Association, of which he was vice-
president.

To Mr. Mackay is due the credit of conceiving the idea of
organizing the Clan Mackay Society, and to his able guidance
and untiring efforts as hon. secretary, that influential society
owes its present phenomenal success. In 1890, Ix)rd Reay,
in the name of the clan, presented Mr. Mackay with a
handsome testimonial " in testimony of their high apprecia-
tion of his excellent services as hon. secretary."

It may be perhaps interesting to add that he is treasurer
of the Gaelic Society of Glasgow; a member of the executive
of the M6d since its institution ; president of the Glasgow
Gaelic Musical Association and of the Cowal Shinty Club ;
chieftain of the Govan Highland Association ; director of
the ('ounty of Sutherland Association, etc. To Highlanders
at home and abroad he is best known as Editor and propric
lor o{ the Celiic Monihl\\ which has earned a popularity and
circulation that no other Highland magazine has ever enjoyed.

■^H XL'^<^^|^^Hlii m

■

^^^KLl ui. ' ' V Ft.' ^^^ ^1

iTr imiti 1

u! V IfiyP^ i

B^#l ^

GEORGE MURRAY CAMl'BELL.

lUOdRAPHICAL NOTICES. 38 1

GEOROE MURRAY CAMPBELL, C.E., Siam.

Mr. CtKOrge Murray Campbeli, is a son of the late
Kenneth Campbell of Eden, Rogart, and received his early
education in his native parish. When twenty-three years of
age he commenced his successful career in India, in connec-
tion with railway construction. Two years later he went to
Oylon to take charge of works on the Covernment Railway,
which he carried to a successful completion. In 1880 he was
made manager, and given a junior partnership in the contract
for the construction of two railways in Jamaica, and on the
lines l>eing opened to traffic in 1885-6 the Governor of the
Island, Sir Henry Norman, bore flattering testimony to
Jamaica's indebtedness to Mr. Campbell. For the next few
years he was employed in surveying and reporting on railway
schemes in the Ural Mountains, Western Australia, Formosa,
and the Malay Peninsula. In 1891 his tender for the equip-
ment of 150 miles of line in Siam, was accepted for
;;^i, 200,000, and on this work he is now engaged In Nov-
ember of last year he took the King of Siam over 80 miles
of the new line, the trip proving most enjoyable to His
Majesty. One of the principal reasons of Mr. C'ampbell's
success has been the facility with which he has accjuired the
native languages,- Hindustani, Tamil, Singalese, Malay,
and Siamese, thus being able to give his instructions direct.
This he ascribes to his knowledge of Ciaelic.

In 1887 Mr. Cam{)bell was married to Lily, third daughter
of the late Mr. Wm. Haynes, of Hampstead, a most accom-
plished lady, who has accompanied her husband in all his
Eastern travels,

382 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

Rev. JAMES ABERIGH-MACKAY, M.A., D.D.,

The subject of this brief sketch is chieftain of that gallant
and powerful branch of the Clan Mackay, which for so many
centuries inhabited Strathnaver, and were the " wardens " of
the Mackay country against invasion, a trust which they never
once betrayed. To them also was entrusted in battle the
famous White Banner (Bratach Bhan Chlann Aoidh) of the
clan, so renowned in song and story. The Rev. J. Aberigh-
Mackay was born at Inverness in 1820, and after taking his
degree at Aberdeen, he spent seven years in the United
States, where he married. On his return home he officiated
at St. John's Chapel, Inverness, for some time. In March,
1857, accompanied by his wife, he went out to India on the
Bengal Establishment, and found himself immediately in the
midst of the turmoil and bloodshed of the Indian Mutiny.
He was shut up in Cawnpore during the terrible siege, and
after its relief by Sir Colin Campbell, saw a good deal of
active service with his regiment, the 9th lancers, his ex-
periences being related in his " Ix)ndon to Lucknow,"
published in two vols, in i860. Thereafter he officiated
at Penang, Meerut, Simla, and Calcutta, returning to Britain
on pension, having served eighteen years. In 1881 his alma
mater conferred on him the degree of D.D. Since then Dr.
Mackay has officiated in Paris, America, and Scotland.

His elder son, James L. Aberigh-Mackay, is Lieut.-Colonel
of the 8th Bengal Cavalry, and is acknowledged to be one of
the most brilliant cavalry officers in the British service. His
younger son, George Robert, was principal of Rajkumar
College, and died in 1881. His only daughter is married to
Mr. VV. E Maxwell, C.M.G., Colonial Secretary at Singapore,

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 383

The late JOHN MACKAY, (Ben Reay.)

Mr. John Mack ay, whose recent death was lamented by
Highlanders at home and abroad, was one of the most
enthusiastic of (iaels. He was born at Restalrig, near
Edinburgh, nearly seventy years ago. When a young man
he went to Canada, where he spent twenty years, engaged
chiefly in fruit growing and experimental farming. Here he
found scope for his military instincts, and was captain of a
company of Home (luards which he organised during the
Fenian troubles of 1865-6. He returned to Scotland in
1875, but since he sold Herriesdale a small estate in Dum-
fries-shire, he resided in Germany, and latterly at Bridge of
Allan. He died in Edinburgh on 14th November, 1896.

Besides his contributions to the Celtic Monthly and various
other magazines and Transactions Mr. Mackay was the author
of " An Old Scots Brigade," being a history of the famous
regiment raised by Donald, first Lord Reay, a full account of
which is included in the interesting chapter on ** Sutherland
Regiments " which he contributed to the present work (see
p. 183). For many years past he was engaged on the pre-
paration of a new History and ( Jenealogy of the ( 'Ian Mackay,
which we hoj>e may yet be published. He was the senior
representative, in the male line, of the Mackays of Melness,
and took a lively interest in all matters pertaining to his clan,
and especially to the (!lan Mackay Society, of which he was
an Honorary Member, a distinction whirh, so far, has only
been conferred on three meml>ers.

Mr. Mackay married, in 1877, the younger daughter of the
Hon. A. Ware, a Judge of the District Court of the United
States, and has an only child, Ethel Reay, born in 1879.

384 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAY COUNTRY.

LiKUT.-Cot.ONEL DUNCAN MENZIES.

The subject of this sketch was born at Glengoulandie, Perth-
shire. In early life he evinced a liking for farming, and

I engaged in this avocation for several years with his father, who

held several large farms. He afterwards went to New Zealand,
where he remained for a time, and acquired an enlarged
experience of his profession. He is now tenant of the large
farm of Blarich in Sutherland, which he conducts with
marked ability and success. Colonel Menzies has always
evinced a deep practical interest in all matters relating to the
Parish of Rogart, and his valuable services in the Parochial
and School Boards for many years have been deservedly and
gratefully acknowledged.

Colonel Menzies is inspired with an intense love for the

\ Highlands, its people, and indeed everything that is consid-

ered of good repute in connection with his native land.

, He is deeply interested in Celtic literature, and passion-

ately fond of Gaelic music, especially the inspiring notes of
the piodmAory and every movement intended to preserve the
best traditions of our race has his sympathy and generous
support.

The I St Sutherland Highland Rifle Volunteers, which the
Colonel has the honour to command, is admitted to be

) one of the finest bodies of men in Her Majesty's service. It

need hardly be said that the subject of our sketch is extremely

i popular among the men of his regiment, and this warm feel-

ing of respect took practical form when the oflficers and men
of the Rogart Company in July, 1890, presented him with an

i address, congratulating him on his promotion to the rank of

Major in the Battalion.

HIOGRAPHICAr. NOTICES. 385

SOA\E NOTABLE SUTH ERLAN DERS.

It would he (juitc impossible, in the liinited space at our
dis|X)sal, to treat of notable Sutherlanders at any length ;
indeed, it would re(juire the entire volume to do this interest-
ing subject the justice it deserves. U*e are not prepared to
state that Sutherland, in proportion to its population, has
produced more men of note than any other Highland county,
but it was only when we commenced to note down the names
of such as we considered deserving of notice that we realised
how considerable the list was W'e have already given short
sketches of a few of these, but there are scores of others
equally deserving of mention, and to a number of them we
should like now to briefly refer.

I'hat excellent institution, " I'he Sutherland Association,
Edinburgh, instituted 1866,' includes among its meml)ers
many of the most prominent men of our county. Several have
l>een already referred to, but we should like to mention one
who is known to our countrymen in all parts of the world,
namely, Mr. I). W. Kkmp, J I*. He is not a native of the
county, but he has written more lM)()ks relating to it than
perhaps any man living. Of these we might mention PoaKkis
Tour in ij6o : Notes on Early Iron-Sfneliin^ in Sutherland ;
The Sutherland Democrat v, etc. ^Ve Ix'lieve he has one or two
new works on hand of a jxiiticularly interesting nature. He
is a J.l*. of the county, and has a residence at Altass, Rose-
hall. Then there is Mr. Ai.kxandkr Mackav, a native of
Swordly, who for twenty years acted as treasurer to the

386 SUTHERLAND AND THE KKAY COUNTRY.

association, and wrote a delightful book, Sketches of Sutherland
Characters^ which is now out of print. Another most eminent
member of this association is Mr. Neil J. D. Kennedy,
advocate, a native of the parish of Creich. He was a
candidate for the representation of Inverness-shire at last
election, but being too ill at the time to contest the county
in person, was defeated by a small majority. Mr. Hugh
Mack AY Matheson, Banker, London, belongs to the Achany
family, and occupies a high position in mercantile circles in
London. The Hon. James Munro, late premier of Victoria,
was born at Armadale, in the Reay country, and has had a
most distinguished career. A few years ago Mr. Munro
gifted ;;^ioo for prizes to the children in Armadale school.
Mr. Donald Mackay, of Ceylon, was born at Rogart, and
has spent the greater part of his life in distant lands, engaged
principally in planting. Like his brother, Mr. John Mackay
of Hereford, he has been very successful. Among other
notable Sutherlanders, connected with this association, may
be mentioned Messrs. Alexander Mackay, LL.l)., Editor
of the Educational Neivs and late president of the association ;
J. L. Anderson, of the Commercial Bank (an ex-president);
Donald Macleod, M.A., Principal of Forfar Academy, and
a native of Assynt ; Alexander Sutherland, Prestonkirk
(of Portskerra) ; Donald M.\ckay, " Strathnaver " House.,
a native of Kirtomy, Farr ; Hugh Mackay, M.A., born on
Melness-side, who has acted for a number of years as
educational secretary; Captain William Morrison, a
Durness-man, who rose from the ranks by his own native
ability; A. Mackay Robson, president, Hugh M. Matheson,
Alexander Ross Mackay,- who is also assistant secretary
to the Clan Mackay Society, and others.

HIOC.RAPHICAL NOTICES. 387

'I'here are two county associations in (Glasgow, where
there should only be one, hut we hope that l)efore long they
will amalgamate and form one powerful organization. Mr.
Alexander Bruce, of Pollokshields, president of the
" Sutherlandshire Association," is a native of the parish of
Clyne. As a business man he has been most successful, and
is principal partner in the firm of Alexander Hruce i^ Co.
The energy and zeal which he exerts in matters relating to
the association and his native county, do him credit. He is
favoured with literary and musical gifts of no common
order, and frecjuently contributes at the meetings. Messrs.
Alexander Macdonald, M.A., F. E. I. S., a native of
Dornoch, and Donald Macleod, born in Assynt, are both
H. M Inspectors of Schools, and have distinguished them-
selves in various ways. In addition to these, mention should
be made of Messrs. Murdo Macleod, ex-president, who also
belongs to Assynt : John Slmpson (parish of Clyne) ;
Donald Mackenzie (Oeich), a successful business man,
and one who is expected before long to occupy a seat at the
City Council Board ; J. C Mack ay, C.C, Portree, and
Dr. HuciH Murray, L.R.C.S., of the Cancer Institution.

" The County of Sutherland Association (Clasgow),"
includes among its members a number of gentlemen of
distinction. Among the officials reference should be made
to .Messrs. Hugh Bannerman, Southport (a native of
Helmsdale) ; John Munro, Hanley (parish of Creich),
the proprietor of a large number of flourishing concerns
in Staff"ordshire, and one who takes a deep interest in
all matters affecting his native (ounty : Dr. John Cunn
(Helmsdale), and Dr. (iEORr.k Gordon (Helmsdale), both

388 SUTHERLAND AND THE REAV COUNTRY.

enjoying large practices in Glasgow, and George Mackay
(Honar Bridge).

There is a " Sutherlandshire Association " in Edinburgh
which devotes itself specially to political and social questions,
and which has done good service. A social gathering is
held each year, which is largely attended. Its moving spirit
is Mr. John Macdonald, a gifted native of Helmsdale.

A Sutherland association was started several years ago in
I^ndon, of which Mr. Angus H. R. Mackav was secretary,
but during the past year or two it seenis to have altogether
disappeared. It does not seem to have been a success.

Just as we go to press we notice public announcements
of the formation of a Sutherlandshire Association in
Inverness ; and a Clan Sutherland Society in Edinburgh.
We wish them both every success.

*' The Clan Mackay Society " may be looked upon
practically as a Sutherland society, for the great bulk of its
members are either natives or descendants of natives. The
Clan Mackay had the honour of first banding themselves in
the south as a society, in 1808, and the present society has
the largest membership, and is the most energetic and
influential of all the clan societies. Although only eight years
old, it has published volumes, instituted a clan bursary, and
otherwise shown evidence of its desire to do good work.
Among its members will be found the most eminent persons
of the name Mackay in all parts of the world, among whom
may be mentioned Baron /Eneas Mackay, late Prime
Minister of the Netherlands (of the Scourie branch) ; Sheriff
.Eneas J. G. Mackay, M.A., LL.D. (of Sandwood); Surgeon-
General George Mackay, M.l)., J. P. (of Bighouse) ; Mr.
(iEORGE J. Mackay, Ex-Mayor of Kendal (son of a native

BIOGRAPAICAL NOTICES 389

of Fan); Sir Jamics I.vi.e Mackav, and many other
distinguished clansmen.

Apart from the county associations there are many
Sutherland men at home and abroad who have done credit
to themselves and the county of their nalivity. Among them
are politicians and statesmen, merchants, governors, and
professional men, explorers, missionaries, officers in the
army and navy, — indeed, they seem to have distinguished
themselves in every sphere of life, and in every part of the
globe. Te attempt even to refer to them would occupy a
great deal more space than we can afford, but there is ample
- material for a delightful volume, should anyone care to take
up the subject.

' \

Index.

Abrachs, The, a sept of the Mackays, ... 29, 48, 50, 52, 63, 67
Aldgowne, Conflict of, Gunns defeat the Siiulairs, ... ... ^i

I I

Antiquities of Sutherland,
Artillery Companies, Sutherland,
A.ssynt, Macleods of^ ...
,, Place-names ofy

Dialectic peculiarities of.

3-% 43

»»

Bannockburn, Battle of.

Bards, The minor,

Bharruich, Castle,

Biog"raphical Sketches of Notable Sutherlanders

Births, Superstitions concemini^,

Borve Castle, ..

Brochs, Larjj^e number of, ...

Brodie, Rev. Georg-e,

Bronze Aj<e,

Cainis, Chambered, ..
Campbell, Sir Colin, ..
Catechising". Diets of,
Catholicism, Roman,
Charters, The Sutherland, ...

,, The Mackay,
Clyne, The place-names of,
Columban Missionaries,
Conventicles, Suppression of.
Covenanters, The,
Crimean War, The, ...

87.115
281, 282

47. 50. S3> 7o» '46
159, 161

'77

12, 13

284, 285

27, 112

367

"7
40, 41, 112

106, 107

350

97, 105

90,95

-247

348
3-'5-33^

'43

-'o. 3-2. 38, 44
168, 169

-% 3-2-2, 324

7-2

64, 65, 69, 70, 72

... 2.^ 1

INDEX.

391

Creich, Place-names of.

••• ••• >••

161, 162

Cromarty, Earl of,

• • • • • t • •

Cromwell, Oliver,

• • • • »• • • •

Culloden, Battle of,

- ■ • • • • • • •

»95

Dalriadic Scots,

• - • • • • •

2,3

David, King of Scotland,

••■ ••■ •••

Death, Superstitions conceminjf.

•• ••• •<•

121

Dialect of Sutherland, The,

■ • • • • • • •

172-181

Divinations, ...

...

... .•• 1 2o

Doniadilla, Castle of,

■>• •■* •••

107

Dornoch, Battle of,

• • • • • • •

• • • • • ■ M

,, Place-names of, ...

• • ■ • ■ • ■ •

163, 165

Druidic Circles,

•■• •■■ ■••

Z2l, 322

Druim-na-cupa, Battle of, ...

■•• •• •••

Drum mond, I^dy Jane,

■ • • ■ • • • • •

Dunrobin, Castle of,

... . . . .

36, 76, no

Durness,

. , . ... ...

3.8,64

,, Macleods of,

• • • • • • • •

• 4348,52

,, Place-names of, ...

••• ••• •••

154. 156

Earth-houses, Underground dwel

linj^s, ...

109

Eddrachilis, Place-names of.

...

... 150

Edward I., King of England,

... . • . • •

10, II

Episcopacy,

>■ ••• ■••

63.64

Fairies,

... ... ...

136, 140

Farr, Sculptured Stone at, ...

> • • . • • • •

Ill

, , Place-names of.

. • a • • •

146, 153

Felting Cloth,

...

Fencibles, The Reay,

230

,, Sutherland,

■ •• ••• ••■

227, 230

Fishermen, Their Superstitions,

...

«30

Folk-lore,

*•• ••• a*.

116, 140

Freskyn, Hugh, Ancestor of Sutherland Earls, ..

392

iNi>i:x,

*
• ■

I
• I

«>

»?

Gaelic, Peculiarities of Sutherland,
Galloway, Origin of Mackays,
Gilbert, Bishop of Caithness,
Golspie, Place-names of,

,, The Stone of,
Gordons, Advent of the,
Gordon, Adam, Karl of,

,, Georj^e, of Garty, ...
Lady Jane, ...
Sir Robert, The Historian,
Gower, Georjjfe Granville Leveson,
Gunn, The Clan,

,, Sir William, Colonel,

,, Georjje,

,, William,

,, John-Mac-Ian-Mac-Rob,
Haco,

Halidon Hill, Battle o\\
Hamilton, Marquis of,
Harald Maddadson, Earl, ...
Harpsdale, Battle of, ...
Hazard, Sloop of war, Story of the.
Helmsdale Castle,
Homespun, Treatise on,
Huntly, Earl of,

Iberian,

Iron Age, ...

Isles, Lord of the,

Keiths' Conflict with the Gunns, ...
Kildonan, Place-names of, ...
Killiecrankie, ...

172-182

'65

1 10

58,61.67

77
30* 46, 50' 5>

«, 9 »»3

62, 63

75. »94

45» i»3
78-86

3«, 39. 40

• •

I.|2

...

105

• • •

»9

•70.

171

7^'

190

INDEX. 393

La-na-creich-mor, The day of the great spoil, ... 54

LaifX* Place-names of,
Lewis, Macleods of, ...
Loth, Place-names of,
Loudon, Earl of,

l^OVo^f ••• ••• •••

162, 163

16 18, 32, 33

1. 40, 169

75* »93
75

Lucknow, Sutherland Highlanders at, ... ... ... .. 250

M*Bryde, Rev. Neil, of Eriboll, 364

MacCuUoch, Rev. John, of Golspie, ... ... ... 341

Macdonald, Rev. Murdo, of Durness, 351. 353

Macdonalds of Glengarry, Raids of the, ... ... ... ... 31

Macdonald, Samuel, *• Big Sam," .. ... 229

Mackay, Alexander, ist Chief, ... ... ... .. 6

' lye of Farr, Chief, ... ... ... ... ... 16

Angus, Chief, ... ... ... ... ... ... 16

Hugh, his brother, ... ... ... ... ... 18

Angus Du, Chief, leader of 4,000 men, ... ... 19

Thomas, Morgan, and Neil, nephews,, ... 20, 21, 27

Neil of the Bass, Chief, ... ... ... ... -22,30

John Abrach, ... ... ... <25, 28

Angus, son of Neil, Chief, ... ... ... 30» 3'

John, Chief, ... ... ... ... ... ... 31

lye IL, or Hugh, Chief, favourite of James IV., ... 32

John, son of lye, chief, ... 36

Donald, brother of John, Chief, aids James V 37

lye in., or Hugh, Chief. 39, 40, 42, 44, 47

John Mor, Cousin of lye, _ ... ... ... 40, 42, 48

Niel, Chief of Abrach Mackays, 48

Hugh, Chief, 5o» 5'» 5^* 53* 55- 59

William, of Bighouse, ... ... ... ... 5i» 53» 57

Donald, of Scourie, ... .,. ... 53, ^cj

*
*

m
t

r '■

f i
' I

394

INDEX.

Mackny, Sir Donald, ist Lord Re.iy,
,, John, 2nd Lord Reay,
,, Hu^h, of Scourie, Colonel,
,, John, of Dilred and Strathy,

Hug-h, of Scourio, GcMicral of King^ William's

George, 3rd Lord Reay,
., William, of Melness,

Donald, 4th Lord Re.iy, ...

Hugh, of Bighouse, Lieutenant-Colonel,
,, George, 5th Lord Reay,
,, Hugh, 6th Lord Reay, ...

., Eric, 7th Lord Reay,
,, Donald James, pre.sent Lord Reay,

Rev. John, of Durness and Lairg,
,, Robert Donn, the bard of Reay,

John Donn, .son of Rob Donn, ...
,, Mack.ay. John of Achness,
., John MacEachainn, patron of Rob Donn,
,, Major, of Eriboll, ...
Mackenzie, Rev. William, of Tongue,

Maleolm, King of Scotland, ...
Marriage, Superstitions conceniinf;

"Men," The,

Monar, Loch, modern Bethesda, ...
Munro, Rev. Alexander,

,, Rev. George, of Farr,

,, Rev. Hugh, ...

., of Fowlis,

,, Regiment of ,
Murkle, Laird of, ...
Murray, Earl of,
Murrays of Sutherland, The,

57, 60

64, 65. 67, 69. 70

69 70

forces, 72

•• 75

76, 77* 293

77, 296, 299

77. 298

347
286-313

303

289

364
355

4
119

234-354
. 126

333

355

333

53. 54
225

• 44
20, 22, 46, 57

1 1** i-fr./\»

National Covenant, The,

Naver, Etymolog-y of,

I, 142

Neville's Cross, Battle of,

Nordling-en, Battle of.

225

Norse Rule,

2, 9

„ Influence on I^n^uage,

178

Ordained Missionaries,

361

Picts, Northeni,

Pictish element in Place-names,

164

Poetry and Music,

^83-320

Privy Council, Proceedings before the, ...

56,60,64

Queen's Prizeman, Robert Mackay,

277, 278

Reay Country, Etymolojf y of,

»45

., ,, Sale of.

•46

Reformation, Attitude of Chiefs to the, ...

44. 7»

Reg^iments, The,

183.282

Revolution, The,

Robbers, Ord of Caithness,

Robertson, Rev. Mr., of EriboU,

3^2

Rogart, Place-names of, ...

166

Rosses of Balnagown, ..

3*. »9»

Seaforth, Earl of,

69.75

Sigurd, Earl of Orkney,

... ... ... •» 3

Sinclair, John, Earl of Caithness,

34*36

Sinclair, George, Earl of Caithness,

45, 46, 48, 53, 55, 56

,, John, Master of Caithness,

„ Henry, „

Smith, Arthur, The Coiner,

Stone Age, The

„ „ Circle.s,

104

' I

. 1

, I
I
I

I ■

■ <

396

INDKX.

Strathnaver, Place-names of,

Superstitions, ...

Sutherland. William, ist Earl of, ...

William, 3rd F!.irl of, ...

Kenneth, 4th Earl of,

William, 5th Earl of, ...

Robert, 6th Earl of,

John, 7th Earl of,

Alexander, 8th Earl of,

John, 9th Earl of, last of Freskyn race,

John, lothEarlof,

Alexander, nth Earl of,

John, 1 2th Earl of,

John, 13th Earl of,

George, 14th

John, 15th Earl of,

William, i6th Earl of,

William, 17th Earl of,

Elizabeth, Countess of^
Sutherland Fencibles of 1759, '79, and 93,

Hig^hlanders (the 93rd),

John, of Forse,

John, of Berriedale,

»»

»♦

i»

♦ ,

»»

> »

I )

»»

♦ »

1 »

»»

f )

»'

Tacksmen,

Thorfinn, Earl of Sutherland and Caithness,

Thorstein, the Red, ...

Victoria Crosses won by Sutherland Highlanders,

Visit of Northern Chiefs to Orkney,

Volunteers, The,

Wallace, Sir William,

Witchcraft, ... .#. ,.. ,..

... 151

... 117

.. 7.8

. . 13

«3. 14

... 3 >

34. 36, 37

... 34

•• 44

... 46

55» 56, 63

... 69

... 71

••• 73

... 76

... 77

227, 230

... 235

... 193

••• 57

.-. 354

4
2

... 254

... 56

260-282

>33» »36

\
f

APPENDIX I.

:+:

Mioisters of the Reay Couotry sioce the Reformatioo.

Durness.

1567. John Reid, Exhorter.

16—. Alexander Munro.

1663. Hu^h Munro.
1707. John Mackay.

1726 Murdoch Macdonald.

1764. John Thomson.

1 81 2. William Findlater.

Karr.

1567. Donald Reid, Reader,

1574. Ferquhard Reid.

1664. John Munro

16 — . Daniel Mackintosh.

1727. Andrew Robertson.

'734* John Skeldoch.

1754. Georg-e Munro.

1780. James Ding^wall.

1815. David MacKenzie.

TONGl E.

1727. William Mackay.

1730. Walter Ross.

1762. John Mackay.

1769. William Mackenzie.

1806. H. M. Mackenzie.

Edhrachilis.

1726. Georjje Brodie.

1741. George Mackay.

1743. William Henderson.

1744. John Munfx>.

Eddrachilis. —cont,

'756' John Mackay.

1762. Alexander Falconer.

1803. John Mackenzie.

1831. George Tulloch.

KiNUX'HBERVIE.

1829. David Mackenzie.
1834. Robert Clarke.

Melness and Eriboll.

1794. John Robertson.

1800. Neil MacBryde.

1802. John Kennedy.

1808. VV'illiam Findlater

1816. Hugh Mackenzie.

1819. Robert Clarke.

1829. George Tulloch.

^^Z'^' Hugh Macleod.

1838. William Macintyre.

Strathy.

1828. Angus MacGillivray.
1842. David Sutherland.

Ac H NESS Mission.

1767. William Mackenzie.

1772. James Dingwall.

1781. Urquhart.

1796. George Gordon.

181 3. David Mackenzie.

1819. Donald Sage.

APPENDIX II.

Ministers of the Presbytery of Oomoch since the Reformition.

n,„»™.

CREl.H.-ro"/.

William Grav.

.7(1.

James Smilh.

Willian. Paip. Papc, I'aip.-

H.>Kh Rose.

or Papp.

G.'orte Rainv.

John Grav.

rKii.

Murdofann-Kiii.

Ali>xaiiil<.''rMi>iiri<.

John R.is^.

Goo

IK ifomu-rl}-) KiLMALut:.

William Mai-kav.

Ari-liib.iW Bcmo.

,6j2.

Ak-itandfr Monro.

Robert Kirk.

ib^b.

J,.hn MniL-ulloch.

John Sullierland.

idii.

Hi.k1i K.i-e.

John Hclliuiu-.

t690.

W.?..r l.Vn„one.

John SmlnTland.

G..orKoKaiiiy'K,-,.n,-d>.

1/54

Martin Ma.piiorso.1.

1774.

John Camphi-ll.

|«I7. Ak-xander Matpher

■nalJ U.i,'a,

George Rulhvi'ii.
Wtlliaxi l.cviii){ston.
Andrew Aiidi>rsoi<.
Jamo, H»,
Ali^xander Brodic.
U'illiain Rose.
tluKh Sutherland.
Hugh Ross.
John R..SS.
William K.-ith.

APPENDIX.

399

Lairg. — cont.

1663. David Monroe.

1668. William Mackay.

1682. John Dempster.

1706. John Robertson.

1 7 14. John Mackay.

1749. Thomas Mackay.

1804. Angfus Kennedy

1817. Duncan MacGilltvray

Loth.

1590. Andrew Anderson

16 — . Hector Munro.

1656. John Rose.

1682. Hector Paip.

1 72 1. Robert Robertson.

1732. James Gilchrist.

"739- William Rose.

1756. Georj^e MacCnlloch.

Loth. — cont,

1802. Georj^e Gordon.

1823. Donald Ross.

ROGART.

1574. George Sinclair.

1574. William Gray.

1590. Thomas Pape.

1614. John Sutherland.

1639. George Sutherland.

1656. Thomas Ross

1662. William Mackay.

1683. Walter Ross.

1725. John Monro.

1755. Hug-h Sutherland.

1774. iCneas Macl^od.

1795. Alexander Urquhart.

181 3. George Urquhart.

1822. Donald Ross.

1823. John Mackenzie.

Archibald Sinclair, Printer, Glasgow.

•*

(;

It
I

i:.

#1
•I

I •

^ (

i^ L

Internet Archive Audio

Featured

Top

Images

Featured

Top

Software

Featured

Top

Books

Featured

Top

Video

Featured

Top

Mobile Apps

Browser Extensions

Archive-It Subscription

Save Page Now

Full text of "Sutherland and the Reay country: history, antiquities, folklore, topography, regiments, ecclesiastical records, poetry and music, etc"

See other formats