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8WITZERLAOT), 

AND  THB  AOJACBNT  PORTIONS   OF 

ITALY,  SAVQY,  AND  THE  TYROL. 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAYELLERS 


BY 


X.  BJEDEKEB. 


With  22  Maps,  10  Plans,  and  7  Panoramas. 
SIXTH  EDITION,  BBYI8S0   AND  AUOMBNTED. 


-'>^  "^^  v,*'xy-«w-^w' vyN-'^vV' N.^N.'^..    \yv>^*^   "V'n 


COBLENZ  AND  LEIPSIC: 
KARL    BiEDEKER. 

1873. 


All  Rights  reserved. 


J 


^Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call. 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all."" 


Ohaucer.    1880. 


^ 


t  PKEPACE. 

^     The  object  of  the  Handbook   for  Switzerland  is  to 
3  render  the  traveller  as  independent  as  possible  of  the 
Qser vices  of  guides,  doinestiques  de  place,  voitnriers,  and 
innkeepers,  and  enable  him  to  realise  to  the  fullest  ex- 
tent the  exquisite  and  rational  enjoyment  of  which  this 
magnificent  country  is  the  fruitful  source. 

Since  the  great  increase  in  the  facilities  for  travel 

afforded  of  late  years  by  the  wide  extension  of  railways^ 

the  number  of  travellers  on  the  Continent  generally,  and 

in  Switzerland  especially,  has  enormously  increased.    A 

fresh  impetus  has  thus  been  given  to  the  spirit  and  enter- 

'    prise  of  the  traveller.     Summits  are  now  scaled  which 

were  hitherto  deemed  inaccessible,  or  accessible  only  to 

the  practised  step  of  the  chamois-hunter  or  the  hardy 

native,  accustomed  from  boyhood  to  feats  of  peril.    The 

achievements  of  the  English  and  Swiss  Alpine  clubs  have 

dimmed  the  memory  of  De  Saussure,    Auldjo,  and  the 

other  pioneers  of  these  icy  regions,  whilst  latterly   the 

/.fair  sex  have  vied  in  deeds   of  daring  with  those  by 

2^hom  the'  dangers  of  adventure  are  more  appropriately 

encountered. 
^  The  Editor  has  repeatedly  explored  the  greater  part 
yof  the  country  described,  solely  with  the  object  of 
N  gathering  fresh  information.  The  present  edition  has 
>been  carefully  revised,  and  provided  with  all  the  most 
Or  recent  information  obtainable  before  the  commencement 
J  of  the  summer  season. 

*"  As  of  course  infallibility  cannot  be  attained,  the  Edi- 
tor will  highly  appreciate  any  bond  fide  communications 
with  which  he  may  be  favoured  by  travellers,  if  the 
result  of  their  own  experience  and  observation ;  and  he 
gratefidly  acknowledges  those  already  received,  which 
have  in  many  instances  proved  most  serviceable. 

22o336 


VI  PREFACE. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  the  result  of  much  care 
and  research,  will  be  of  essential  service  to  the  traveller; 
they  will  enable  him  at  a  glance  to  select  the  best 
routes,  and  very  frequently  to  dispense  with  the  costly 
and  uncongenial  services  of  guides. 

Time  Tables,  Information  concerning  the  depar- 
ture of  trains,  steamboats,  and  diligences  is  seldom  to 
be  relied  upon  unless  obtained  from  local  sources.  If 
Bradshaw  is  mistrusted,  the  ^ Schweizerische  Eisenbakn- 
Courshuch\  published  by  Krttsi  of  Bale,  or  that  of  Btlrkli 
(40  c),  will  be  found  useful. 

Altitudes  are  given  according  to  the  Swiss  Federal 
Map  (reduced  to  English  feet;  1  Engl.  ft.  =  0,3048  m^tre 
=  0,938  Paris  ft.),  and  the  Populations  from  data 
furnished  by  the  most  recent  census.  Distances  on 
high  roads  and  railways  are  given  in  English  miles ; 
while  those  on  bridle  and  foot-paths,  mountain-expe- 
ditions, and  glaciers  are  expressed  by  the  time  in  which 
they  are  ordinarily  accomplished. 

Hotels,  Besides  the  first  class-hotels,  many  estab- 
lishments of  more  modest  pretensions  are  enumerated, 
which  may  be  safely  selected  by  the  'voyageur  en 
gar9onV  with  little  sacrifice  of  real  comfort,  and  great 
saving  of  expenditure.  The  scale  of  charges  mentioned 
is  either  in  accordance  with  the  personal  experience  of 
the  Editor,  or  based  on  an  inspection  of  numberless 
bills  furnished  to  him  by  travellers.  Hotel  charges, 
as  well  as  carriage-fares  and  fees  to  guides,  are  of 
course  liable  to  frequent  variation;  but  an  approximate 
statement  of  these  items  will  often  prove  of  service  to 
the  traveller,  and  enable  him  to  form  an  estimate  of 
his  probable  expenditure. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 
I.  Plan  of  Excursion,  etc XVII 

II.  Travelling  Expenses.     Money XX 

III.  Hotels  and  Pensions XXI 

IV.  Passports XXII 

V.   Excursions  on  Foot XXII 

VI.  Maps XXIV 

VII.  Guides XXVI 

Vni.  Voituriers  and  Horses XXVII 

IX.  J>08ting  and  Telegraphs XXVUI 

X.  Railways XXX 

XI.  History XXX 

XII.  Constitution  and  Statistics XXXII 

XIII.  Gteology  of  the  Alps XXXV 

XIV.  Glaciers XLI 

XV.  Wrestling-matches XLIII 

Route 

1.  Bale 1 

2.  From   B&le  to   Blenne  (Bern   and  Neuchatel)  through 

the  Munster-Thal 5 

1.  From  Del^mont  to  Porrentruy 6 

2.  From  Miinster  to  the  Weissenstein 7 

3.  From  B^vilard  over  the  Montoz  to  Reuchenette    ...  7 

3.  From  Bale  to  Geneva  by  Neuchatel 8 

1.  Frohburg.    Wartburg 9 

2.  From  Neuveville  to  the  Ghasseral 10 

4.  Soleure  and  the  Weissenstein.     Rothe.     Hasenmatt     .       11 

1.  St.  Verenathal.    Wengistein 13 

5.  From  Bale  to  Bern  by  Herzogenbuchsee 13 

6.  From  BUe  to  Lucerne 14 

7.  From  B&le  to  Ziirlch  by  Olten 15 

1.  From  Sissach  to  Aarau  by  the  Schafmatt 15 

2.  From  the  Baths  of  Schinznach  by  the  Habsburg  to  Brugg  16 

8.  From  Bale  to  Zurich  by  Waldshut  and  Turgi     ...  18 

9.  From  Bale  to  Schaffhausen  and  Constance     ....  19 

1.  Hohentwiel 20 

2.  The  Island  of  Reichenau 21 

10.  From  Friedrlehshafen  (Rorschach)  to  Constance.     Lake 

of  Constance 22 

1.  From  Constance  to  the  Mainau 25 

11.  The  Falls  of  the  Rhine 26 

12.  From  Schaffhausen  to  Zfirich 28 

18.  Ziirlch  and  the  Uetliberg 28 

1.  From  the  Uetliberg  to  the  Albis-Hochwacht    ....  34 

2.  From  Zurich  to  Regensberg 34 


J 


Vin  CONTENTS. 

Rottie  Page 

14.  From  Zurich  to  Lucerne   by  Zug 34 

1.  The  Albis  route 36 

15.  From  Zurich  to  Friedrichshafen  and  Lindau  by  Romans- 
horn 36 

1.  From  Miilheim  to  Constance 36 

16.  From  Zurich  to  Lindau  by  St.  Gallen  and  Rorschach  .  37 

1.  From  Winkeln  to  Herisau 37 

2.  Excursions  from  St.  Gallen 38 

3.  Excursions  from  Rorschach 39 

4.  Excursions  from  Lindau 40 

17.  From  Zurich  to  Coire.    Lakes  of  Zurich  and  Wallenstadt  40 

1.  From  Richterswyl  to  the  Gottschallenberg       ....  41 

2.  From  Lachen  to  Glarus  through  the  Waggithal    ...  42 

3.  From  Riiti  to  the  Bachtel 43 

4.  From  Wesen  to  the  Speer 45 

5.  From  Miihlehorn  to  Mollis  over  the  Kerenzer  Berg    .  46 

6.  The  Murgthal 46 

7.  From  Wallenstadt  to  Wildhaus   in  the  Toggenburg  over 

the  Hinterruck 46 

8.  From  Mels  through  the  Weisstannen  and  Kalfeuser  valleys 

to  Vattis 47 

18.  From  Zurich  to  the  Rigi  and  Lucerne  by  Horgen,  Zug, 
Immensee,  and  Kiissnacht.   Lake  of  Zug 47 

1.  From  Horgen  over  the  Horger  Egg  to  the  Sihl-Bri^e. 
Zimmerberg 48 

2.  Felsenegg.     Schonfels.     Schonbrunn 49 

19.  Lucerne  and  Pilatus 50 

20.  From  Lucerne   to  Brunnen    by  Kiissnacht,    Arth   and 

Schwyz 56 

1.  The  Rossberg 57 

2.  The  Mythen •  .      .  58 

21.  The  Rigi 59 

22.  From  Lucerne  to  Como  (Milan)  by  the   St.  Gotthard. 

Lake  of  Lucerne 68 

1.  From  Beckenried  to  Seelisberg 71 

2.  The  Curhaus  Sonnenberg.    Seelisberger  Kulm.     ...  72 

3.  Axenstein.     Stoss.    Frohnalp 73 

4.  Isenthal.    Uri-Rothstock 75 

5.  From  Klus  through  the  Erstfelder  Thai  to  Engelberg      .  77 

6.  The  Maderaner  Thai 77 

7.  The  Oberalpstock  and  Bristenstock 78 

8.  The  €K)schenen  Valley.    By  the  Alpiglen-Lucke  to  Realp  79 

9.  The  Badus,  or  Six  Madun 81 

10.  The  Lucendro  Lake 81 

11.  Pizzo  Centrale.    Prosa.    Fibbia.     Sorescia 82 

12.  From  Airolo  through  the  Piora  Valley   to  St.  Maria  and 
Dissentis  (see  R.  77) 83 

13.  From  Airolo   through  the  Canaria  Valley  over  the  Nera 

Pass  and  Unteralp  to  Andcrmatt 83 

23.  From  Lucerne  to  Altorf  by  Stans  and  Engelberg.  Surenen  86 

1.  Stanser  Horn.    Buochser  Horn 85 

2.  Ascent  of  the  Titlis  from  Engelberg 87 

24.  From  Lucerne  over  the  Briinig  to  Brienz  (and  Meiringen)  89 

1.  From  Lucerne  to  Alpnach-Gestad  by  land 89 

2.  The  Burgenstock 89 

3.  Footpath  from  Stansstad  to  Sachseln 90 

4.  The  Schwendi-Kaltbad 91 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Boute  ^H.^ 

5.  The  Helchthal 91 

6.  From  the  Melchihal  to  Engelberg  over  the  Storregg  or  the 
Juchli 91 

7.  From  the  Melchthal  to  Heiringen  over  the  Melchalp  .  91 

8.  From  Giswyl  to  the  Brienzer  Bothhom 92 

25.  From  Lucerne  to  Bern.     Entlebuch.     Emmenthal  .     .  92 

1.  From  Entlebuch  or  Trubschachen  to  the  l^apf      ...  93 

26.  Bern 94 

1.  The  Giirten 99 

27.  The  Bernese  Oberland 99 

Plan  of  Excursion.    Conveyances  etc 99 

a.  From  Bern  to  Thnn 100 

1.  From  Hiinsingen  to  the  Belpberg 100 

2.  Environs  of  Tliun.    Excursions 101 

3.  From  Thun  to  Freiburg 102 

b.  The  Niesen 102 

c.  From  Thun  to  Interlaken.     Lake  of  Thun     ...  104 

d.  Interlaken  and  Its  Environs 105 

1.  Longer  Excursions  from  Interlaken 109 

e.  From  Interlaken  to  Lauterbrunnen.     Staubbach  .     .  Ill 
1.  From  Zweiliitschinen  to  Eisenfluh  and  Miirren      ...  112 

f.  Upper  Valley  of  Lauterbrunnen.  Murren.  Fall  of  the 

Schmadribach 113 

1.  Schilthom 113 

2.  From  Lauterbrunnen  over  the  Sefinenfurke  to  the  Kien- 

thal,  and  over  the  Diindengrat  to  Kandersteg  ....  115 

3.  From  Lauterbrunnen  to  the  Eggischhorn  by  the  Lauinen- 

thor.      .      .- 115 

g.  From  Lauterbrunnen  to  Grlndelwald.     Wengernalp. 

Jungfrau 115 

1.  Lauberhorn.    Tschuggen 117 

2.  From  Qrindelwald  to  the  Zasenberg    over  the  Eismeer 

(Her  de  Olace) 119 

3.  The  Mettenberg 119 

4.  The  Mannlichen 119 

5.  From  Qrindelwald  over  the  Strahlegg,  or  over  the  Lauter- 
aarjoch,  to  the  €hrimsel  Hospice 120 

6.  Passes  from  Qrindelwald  to  the  Eggischhorn    ....  120 

h.  The  Faulhorn 120 

1.  Rothihom.     Schwarzhorn 122 

1.  From   Grlndelwald   to   Melrlngen.      The    Rosenlaul 

Glacier.     Falls  of  the  Reichenbach 123 

1.  The  Wetterhom 123 

2.  The  Qrindelalp 123 

k.  From  Melrlngen  to  Interlaken.     Rothhorn.     Lake  of 

Brienz 126 

1.  From  Brienz  to  Interlaken  by  the  17.  Bank  of  the  lake  .  127 

I.  The  Giessbach 128 

1.  From  the  Qiessbach  to  the  Faulhorn 129 

2.  Footpath  from  the  Qiessbach  to  Interlaken  on  the  S.  Bank 

of  the  lake 129 

28.  From  Melrlngen  to  Engelberg.     Jochpass 129 

1.  From  the  Engstlenalp  to  the  TiUis 130 

2.  From  the  Engstlenalp  to  the  Qadmenthal  over  the  Satteli  130 

3.  From  the  Engstlenalp  to  the  Melchthal 130 


X  CONTENTS. 

Route  Pag9 

29.  From  Meiringen  to  Wasen.     Susten  Pass       ....  131 

30.  From  Meiringen   to   the  Rhone   Glacier.     Falls   of  the 
Handeck.     Grimsel 132 

1.  The  'Finstere  Schlauche' 133 

2.  The  Urbach  Valley 133 

3.  From  the  Falls  of  the  Handeck  to  Innertkirchen  .      .      .  134 

4.  The  Finster-Aarhora 135 

5.  The  Aare  Glaciers 135 

6.  The  Little  Sidelhorn 136 

7.  The  Ewig-Schneehorn 136 

8.  From  the  Grimsel  to  Fiesch  over  the  Oberaarjoch       .      .  136 

31.  From  the  Rhone  Glacier  to  Andermatt.     The  Furca     .  137 

1.  Furcahorn.     Galenstock.      From    the   Furca   across    the 

Rhone  Glacier  to  the  Grimsel  Hospice  direct.      ....  138 

32.  From  the  Rhone  Glacier  to  Yispach.     Eggischhorn  .     .  139 

1.  The  Gerenthal 140 

2.  From  Obergestelen  to  Airolo  by  the  Kufenen  Pass            .  140 

3.  Loffelhorn 140 

4.  From  Fiesch  to  Andermatten  by  the  Albmn-Pass  .      .      .  141 

5.  From  Fiesch  to  Iselle  by  the  Passo  del  Boccareccio  (Bitter 
Pass) 141 

6.  From  Fiesch  to  Premia  by  the  Kriegalp  or  Geisspfad  Pass  141 

7.  Glacier -passes    from    the   Eggischhorn    to    Grindelwald, 
Lauterbrunnen,  and  the  Grimsel 142 

8.  From  the  Eggischhorn  by  the  Lotschenliicke  or  the  Beich- 

grat  to  the  Lotschenthal 142 

33.  From  Ulrichen  to  Domo  d'Ossola.      Gries  Pass.     Falls 

of  the  Tosa.     Formazza  Valley 143 

1.  From  the  Falls  of  the  Tosa  to  Airolo  by  the  Pass  of 

S.  Giacomo 144 

2.  Piz  Basodino 144 

3.  From  the  Formazza  Valley  to  the  Val  Maggia*  over  the 
Criner  Furca 144 

34.  From   Thun    to  Lenk    and    Susten    over   the  Gemmi. 
Baths  of  Leuk 145 

1.  From  Miihlenen  to  Interlaken 1'^ 

2.  From  Frutigen  to  Lenk  by  Adelboden  and  the  Hahnen- 
moos 146 

3.  From  Kandersteg  to  the  Oeschinen-Thal  (see  B.  27,  f.  3)  147 

4.  From   Kandersteg   to   Lauterbrunnen   by    the    Tschingel 
Glacier 147 

5.  The  Balmhorn 147 

6.  Excursions  from  Leuk.    Torrenthom.    (3telmhom       .      .  149 

7.  From  Inden  to  Sierre 150 

35.  From  Thun  to  Sion.     Grimmi.     Rawyl 150 

1.  The  Diemtiger  Thai 150 

2.  From  Lenk  to  Gsteig 151 

3.  Excursion  to  the  Source  of  the  Simme 151 

36.  From  Thun  to  Gesseney  by  the  Simmenthal.     .     .     .  152 

1.  From  Reidenbach  to  BuUe   ovfer  the  Klus,   or  over  the 
Badermoos 153 

2.  From  Gr^sus  over  the  Chessalle-Eck  to  the  Lac  Noir      .  153 

3.  From  Gtesseney  to  Aigle  by  Chateau-d'Oex       ....  154 

37.  From  Gesseney  to  Aigle  over  the  Col  de  Pillon      .     .  155 

1.  The  Lauenenthal 156 

2.  From  Gresseney  to  Sion  by  the  Sanetsch 155 

3.  From  Ormont-dessus  to  Gnryon  by  the  Pas  de  la  Croix    .  156 

4.  The  Oldenhorn                  156 


CONTENTS.  XI 

Bovte  Pace 

38.  From  BuUe  to  Montrenx  or  Yeyay  by  the  MoMson  and 

the  Jaman 156 

1.  From  Albeuve  and  from  Vaulruz  to  the  Vol^son  .  157 

2.  From  Gesseney  to  Bulle  by  Montbovon  and  Gruy^re  .      .  168 

39.  From  Bern  to  Lausanne  (Vevay).     Oron-Railway     .     .  159 

1.  From  Flamatt  to  Laupen 158 

2.  From  Bomont  to  Bulle 162 

3.  From  Chexbres  to  Vevay 162 

40.  From  Bern  to  Neuchatel  by  Morat.    Avenches.    Payeme  163 

1.  From  Bern  to  Neuchatel  by  Aarberg  and  Ins  ....  163 

2.  From  Morat  to  Payeme 164 

41.  Nench&tel  and  the  €haumont 165 

42.  From  Neuchatel  to  Le  Locle  by  Chaux-de-Fonds ,   and 
back  by  Les  Fonts 167 

1.  From  Neuchatel  to  Chanx-de-FondB  by  the  Col  des  Logea  168 

2.  Roche  Fendue.    Saut  du  Doubs 169 

43.  From  Neuchatel  to  Pontarlier  through  the  Val  de  Travers  169 

44.  From   Neuchatel    to   Lausanne    and   Geneva.     Lake    of 

Neuchatel 171 

1.  From  Yverdon  to  the  Chasseron 172 

2.  Creux  du  Vent 173 

3.  From  Rolle  to  Orbe  by  the  Col  de  Marcheiruz  and   the 

Lac  de  Joux .      *     .  175 

45.  From  Oossonay  to  Yallorbe.     Lac  de  Joux.     Dent  de 
Vaulion 175 

1.  From  Bomainmotier  to  Le  Pont  by  Vaulion    ....  176 

46.  Geneva 177 

47.  Environs  of  Geneva.  Femex.  Mont  Saldve.  The  Voirons  185 

48.  From  Geneva  to  Martigny  by  Lausanne  and  Villeneuve. 
Lake  of  Geneva  (Northern  Bank) 187 

1.  The  Ddle 189 

2.  From  Rolle  to  the  Signal  de  Bougy 190 

3.  From  Lausanne  to  the  Signal  and  the  Grandes  Roches  192 

4.  Hauteville  and  Blonay 194 

5.  Excursions  from  Montreux 196 

6.  From  Aigle  to  Villard.    Ascent  of  the  Chamossaire    .    .  199 

7.  The  Baths  of  Lavey 200 

8.  From  Martigny  or  Sembrancher  to  the  Pierre-k-voir  .  202 

49.  From   Geneva   to   St.  Maurice   by   Bouveret.     Lake   of 
Geneva  (Southern  Bank) 203 

1.  From  Thonon  to  Samoens.    Dranse  Valley       ....  204 

2.  From  St.  Gingolph  to  the  Blanchard  and  Port  Valais .      .  204 

3.  Val  d'llliez,  and  ascent  of  the  Dent  du  Midi  ....  205 

50.  From  Geneva  by  Ouloz  and  Aix-les-Bains  to  Chambtfry, 

returning  by  Annecy 207 

1.  Perte  du  Rhdne 207 

2.  Lac  du  Bourget.    Haute-Combe 206 

3.  From  Aix-les-Bains  to  Annecy 206 

4.  From  Ugine  to  Sallanches  or  the  Baths  of  St.  Gervais    .  210 

51.  From  Geneva  to  Ghamouny 212 

1.  From  St.   Qervais    over    the    Col   de    la  Forclaz  to  Les 

Hottches 214 


Xn  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

52.  Ghamouiiy  and  its  Environs 214 

1.  From  Ghamonny  to  Sixt  by  the  Col  du  Br^yent  and  the 

Col  d'Anterne 220 

2.  From  Chamouny  to  Sixt  by  Argentiere  and  Mont  Buet   .  221 

3.  From  Chamouny  to  Courmayeur  over   the  Col   du  G^ant  222 

53.  From  Chamouny   to  Martigny   over  the  Tete-Noire,    or 

to  Yernayaz  by  Trlquent  and  Salvan 222 

1.  Cascade  du  Dailly 225 

54.  From  Martigny  to  Chamouny.     Col  de  Balme          .     .  225 

55.  Tour  du  Montblanc.    From  Chamouny  to  Aosta  by  the 

Col  de  Bonhomme  and  the  Col  de  la  Seigne      .     .     .  227 

1.  From  Chapiu  to  Pr^-St.  Didier  over  the  Little  St.  Bernard  290 

2.  Ascent  of  the  Mont  de  Saxe  near  Courmayeur.     Cramont  231 

3.  From  Courmayeur  to  Martigny  by  the  Ferret  Valley  and 

the  Col  de  Ferret 232 

4.  From  Pr^-St.  Didier   to  Bourg-St.  Maurice  by  the   Little 

St.  Bernard 233 

56.  From  Martigny  to  Aosta.     Great  St.  Bernard      .     .     .  233 

1.  Excursion  in  the  Valsorey  Valley 236 

2.  Ascent  of  Mont  Velan  and  the  Grand  Combin  ....  235 

3.  From  the  Hospice  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  to  Martigny 

by  the  Ferret  Valley 238 

4.  From  St.  Remy   to  Courmayeur  by  the  Col  de  la  Serena  239 

5.  Becca  di  Nona.    Mont  Emilius 240 

6.  From  Aosta  to  Zermatt  by  the  Col  de  Valpelline  .  240 

57.  From  Martigny  over  the  Col  de  Fenetre  to  Aosta.   Val 

de  Bagne 240 

1.  Col  de  Sonadon.     Col  de  Cr^te  Seche 241 

58.  From  Bex  to  Sion.     Col  de  Ch^ville 242 

59.  The  S.  Valleys  of  the  Valais  between  Sion  and  Tour- 
temagne.     (Val  d'Herens,  Val  d'Anniviers,   and  Valley 

of  Tourtemagne) 244 

a.  From  Sion  to  Evolena  by  the  Val  d'H^rens,  and  to 

the  Val  d'Anniviers  by  the  Col  de  Torrent     .     .     .  244 

1.  Pic  d'Arzinol 245 

2.  Glacier  de  Ferp^cle 245 

3.  Glacier  de  TArolla 245 

4.  From  Evolena  to  Zermatt  by  the  Col  d'H^rens            .  245 

5.  From  Evolena  to  Pr^rayen.    Col  de  Colon 246 

6.  Col  de  Biedmatten.    Pas  de  Chevres.    Col  du  Mont  Rouge. 

Col  de  Chermontane 246 

7.  The  Sasseneire.    Pas  de  Lona 246 

b.  From   Sierre  to  Zinal  by   the  Val   d'Anniviers  (and 

over  the  Col  de  Zinal  to  Zermatt) 247 

1.  Alp  de  TAU^e.    Alp  Arpitetta.    Roc  Noir 247 

2.  From  Zinal  to  Zermatt  by  the  Triftjoch,  or  the  Col  Durand  248 

c.  St.  Luc.     Bella  Tola.     To   the   Tourtemagne  Valley 

by  the  Pas  du  BoBuf,  and  to  the  Valley  of  the  Visp 

by  the  Augstbord  Pass 248 

1.  Meiden  Pass.    Barr  Glacier.    Pas  de  la  Forcletta  .      .      .  250 

60.  From  Gampel  to  Kandersteg.     Lotschen  Pass      .     .     .  250 

1.  From  Kippel  to  Lauterbrunnen  by  the  WetterWcke  •     .  250 

2.  From  Kippel  to  Lauterbrunnen  by  the  Peters  or  Ldtschen- 

thal  Grat 250 


(30NTBNTS.  XHI 

Boute  Page 

61.  From    Martigny   to   Arona   on   Lmgo  Maggiore   by   the 

Simplon 252 

1.  From  Riddefl  to  Chable  by  the  Col  d'Etablon  ....  2&3 

2.  From  Tourtemagne  to  Meiden 2&5 

3.  From  Brieg  to  tiie  Sparrenhom 256 

4.  From  the  Antrona  Valley  to  Meigeren  by  the  Saas  Pass  261 

62.  From  Vogogna  to  Viapach.     Monte  Moro 261 

1.  Pizzo  Bianco 262 

2.  From  Macugnaga  to  Zermatt  by  the  Weissthor            .      .  262 

3.  Stellihom.     From   the  Hattmarkalp  to   Zermatt.     Adler 

Pass.    AUalin  Pass 264 

4.  Shrine  of  Fee.    Alphube^joch 265 

5.  Qassenried  Pass.     From  Saas  to  the  Simplon  Hospice. 
Mattwaldgrat 266 

63.  From  Yispach   to  Zermatt,    and   by  the  Matterjoch   to 
Aosta 266 

64.  Zermatt  and  its  Environs.     RifTelberg  and  Gorner  Grat  269 

1.  Glacieivexcnrsions  from  the  Riffel 272 

2.  Excursion  round  Monte  Rosa 274 

3.  Excursions  from  Zermatt 274 

65.  The  Canton   of  Appenzell.     Heiden,   Gals,  Weissbad, 
Wildkirchli,  Hoher  Hasten,  Sentis 275 

1.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Antoni.    Kaien.     Gabris      ....  277 

2.  From  Qais  to  Altstatten  in  the  Valley  of  the  Rhine  over 

the  Stoss 278 

3.  From  the  Weissbad  to  the  Rhine  Valley  bver  the  Hohe 
Kasten 278 

4.  From  Appenzell  to  St.  Gallen.     Frolichsegg.    Voglisegg. 
Freudenberg 280 

5.  From  Weissbad  to  Wildhaus  in  the  Toggenburg  .  280 

66.  From  Rorschach  to  Coire 281 

1.  St.  Luziensteig 283 

67.  Ragatz  and  Pfaffers 283 

1.  Excursions  from  Ragatz.    Pis  Alun 286 

2.  From  Ragatz  to  Reicbenau 286 

68.  Coire  (Chur) 287 

1.  Hittenberg.    Spontiskfipfe 389 

69.  From   Wyl   through   the  Toggenbnrg   to   Haag    in    the 
Valley  of  the  Rhine 289 

70.  From  Wesen  to  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg.     Glarus .     .  291 

1.  The  Schilt 292 

2.  Pantenbriicke.    The  Upper  Sandalp.    Todi       ....  293 

3.  From  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg  to  Uanz  by  the  Kistenpass  294 

71.  From  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg  to  Altorf.     Klausen      .  295 

72.  From  Wadenswyl,    Rlchterswyl,    or  Rapperschwyl    to 

Einsiedeln 296 

1.  Hoch-Etsel.    Schonboden 297 

73.  From  Einsiedeln  to  Schwyz  and  Brunnen      ....  299 

1.  Morgarten 300 

74.  From  Schwyz  to  Glarus  by  the  Pragel 301 

1.  From  Huottathal  to  Altorf  by  the  Kinzigpass ....  301 

2.  Wiggis-Chain 302 

3.  Olamisch 302 

75.  From  Glarus  to  Coire  through  the  Sernf-Thal     .     .     .  303 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

Route  Paee 

76.  From  Coire  to  Andeimatt.     Oberalp 304 

1.  From  Versam  to  Spliigen  by  the  Lochli  Pass  .      ,      .      .  305 

2.  Piz  Hundaun 906 

3.  Lugnetz  Valley 306 

4.  Piz  Muraun 306 

5.  From  Dissentis  over  the  Sandalp  Pass  to  Stachelberg      .  306 

6.  From  Sedrun  over  the  Kreuzli  Pass  or  the  Brunni  Pass  to 
Amsteg 306 

7.  Source  of  the  Vorder-Rhein 310 

77.  From  Dissentis  to  Bellinzona.     Lukmanier          .     .     .  310 

1.  From  Perdatsch  to  the  Cristallinenthal 311 

2.  The  Scopi 311 

78.  From  Landquart  to  Scbuls  over  the  Fluela  Pass     .     .  312 

1.  Seewis.     The  baths  of  Fideris  and  Serneus 312 

2.  From  Klosters  to  Lavin  and  Sus  in  the  Engadine  by  the 
Vereina  Pass,  the  Vemela  Pass,  or  the  Silvretta  Pass     .  314 

3.  Ascent  of  the  Schwarzhorn  (Fluela  Pass) 315 

79.  From  Davos  to  Tiefenkasten 315 

1.  Excursions  from  Davos-Dorfli 316 

2.  From  Davos  to  Scanfs  in  the  Engadine  by  the  Scaletta  Pass  316 

3.  From  Davos  to  Bergiin  by  the  Sertig  Pass 316 

4.  From  Davos  to  Coire  by  the  Strela  Pass 317 

80.  From  Coire  to  Ponte  (and  Samaden)  in  the  Engadine 

by  the  Albnla  Pass 318 

81.  From  Coire  to  Samaden  by  the  Julier 320 

1.  The  Stsetzer  Horn 320 

2.  From  Lenz  to  Thusis  by  the  Schyn  road 321 

3.  From   Stalla  to  Gasaccia  in  the   Val  Bregaglia  by   the 
Septimer 322 

8^2.  The  Upper  Engadine  from  the  Maloja  to  Samaden.  Pont- 

resina  and  its  Environs.     Piz  Languard 324 

1.  Lake  of  Cavloccio.    Forno  Glacier.    Fall  of  the  Ordlegna  325 

2.  From  the  Maloja  over  the  Muretto  Pass  to'  Chiesa  and  Sondrio  325 

3.  From  Sils-Maria  to  the  Fex  Glacier 326 

4.  From  Silvaplana  over  the  Fuorcla  da  Surlej  to  Pontresina  327 

5.  Mountain  excursions  from  St.  Moritz.    Piz  Nair   .            .  328 

6.  Muottas.    Piz  Ot 329 

7.  Excursions  from  Pontresina 331 

83.  From  Samaden  to  Nauders.     Lower  Engadine    .     .  334 

1.  Piz  Uertsch.    Piz  Eesch.    Piz  Mezzem 335 

2.  From  Ponte  to  Livigno  by  the  Lavirum  Pass ....  335 

3.  Piz  Griatschouls 335 

4.  From  Scanfs  to  Livigno  by  the  Casanna  Valley    .  335 

5.  From   Zernetz   to   St.  Maria  in  the  Miinsterthal  by  the 
Ofener  Pass 336 

6.  Piz  Mezdi.    Piz  Linard 836 

7.  From  Ardetz  to  Schuls  via  Fettan 337 

8.  Footpath  from  Ardetz  to  Vulpera 837 

9.  Val  Tasna.    Futschol  Pass.    Piz  Cotschen 337 

10.  Excursions    from    Tarasp.      Schloss    Tarasp.      Avrona. 
Schwarz-See 338 

11.  Excursions   from  Schuls.     Muotta    Kaluns.     Piz   Gliina. 

Piz  Chiampatsch.     Piz  Lischan 338 

12.  From  Schuls  to  St.  Maria  by  the  Scarl-Thal    ....  339 

84.  From  Samaden  toTirano  by  the  Bernina,  and  to  Colico 

by  the  Valtellina 340 

1.  Val  del  Fain.    By  la  Stretta  to  Livigno 341 

2.  Footpath  from  the  Bernina  Inn  to  Poschiavo  ....  341 


i                                              CONTENTS.  XV 

I    Boate 

3.  Piz  Campaecio.    Pis  Lagalp 342 

i                   4.  Val  Agone.    By  the  Forcola  to  Livigno 342 

5.  From  the  Bemina  to  Bonnio  by  Val  Viola     ....  342 

6.  Pizso  SasMlbo 343 

7.  From  Tirano  to  Colico  through  the  Val  Tellina    ...  344 

85.  From  Tirano  to  Nauders  by  the  Stelvio 344 

1.  Frqm  Bormio  to  St.  Caterina  in  the  Val  Furva.    Monte 
Confinale 345 

2.  From  Bormio  to  Livigno  by  the  Foscagno  Pasa           .      .  345 

3.  From  St.  Maria  (on  the  Stelvio-route)  to  St.  Maria  in  the 
Miinsterthal  by  the  Womuer  Joeh  (Umbrail  Pms)      .     .  347 

4.  Piz  Umbrail 347 

5.  The  Three  Holy  Springs 448 

6.  From  Prad  to  St.  Maria  (Miinsterthal)  via  Tauffers    .      .  349 

86.  From  Nanders   to  Bregenz  by  Landeck   and  Feldkirch. 

Finstennunz.     Arlberg 350 

1.  Valley  of  Montafun.    Scesaplana 352 

2.  From  Feldkirch  to  Buchs T     .  363 

3.  The  Gtobhardsberg  near  Bregenz 354 

I                    4.  Pfander.    Bregenzer  Wald.    Schrocken 354 

'    87.  From  Coire  to  Splugen.     Via  Mala 355 

1.  From  Thnsis  to  Tiefenkaaten  by  the  new  Schyn  road      .  357 

2.  Lake  of  Liisch 368 

3.  Piz  Beverin -     .  359 

4.  From  Andeer  to  Stalla  by  the  Valetta  Pass      ....  300 
6.  From  Caniciil  to  Pianazzo  by  the  Madesimo  Pass  360 

88.  From  Splilgen  to  the  Lake  of  Como 361 

89.  From  Chiavenna  to  Samaden.     Maloja 363 

'                    1.  From  Gastasegna  to  Soglio 364 

I                   2.  The  Bondasca  Qlacier 364 

3.  The  Albigna  Valley.    Piz  Duan 365 

90.  From  Splflgen  to  Bellinzona.     Bernardino      ....  366 
I                    1.  Source  of  the  Hinter-Bhein 368 

2.  Val  Galanca 368 

91.  From  Bellinzona  to  Como  (and  Milan).     Lake  of  Lugano  368 

1.  Monte  Camogh^.    Monte  Cenere 369 

2.  Monte  Generoso 369 

92.  Lugano  and  its  Environs 370 

1.  Monte  S.  Salvatore 372 

2.  Monte  Brh 372 

3.  Monte  Gaprino 372 

93.  From  Bellinzona  to  Magadino  and  Locarno     ....  373 

1.  From  Locarno  to  Domo  d'Ossola  by  the  valleys  of  Cento- 

valli  and  Vigezzo 374 

2.  From  Locarno  to  Airolo  by  the  Val  Maggia.   Val  Bavona  374 

94.  Lago  Maggiore.     The  Borromean  Islands 374 

1.  Railway  from  Arona  to  Milan 379 

,     95.  From  Stresa  to  Yarallo.     Monte  Motterone.      Lake  of 

Orta.     Val  Sesia 380 

1.  The  Sacro  Monte  near  OrU 381 

2.  The  Sacro  Monte  near  Varallo 382 

3.  From  Varallo   through    the  Val    Sermenza  and  over  the 
Gol  di  Botiggia  to  Macugnaga 382 

4.  From  Varallo  to  Le  Breuil  by  Gressoney 383 

96.  From    Luino    on    Lago  Maggiore  to  Menaggio    on    the 

Lake  of  Como.     Lake  of  Lugano  384 

1.  The  Grotto  of  Osteno 385 


XYI  MAPS  AND  PANORAMAS. 

Route  Pago 

97.  The  Lake  of  Como 385 

1.  The  Lake  of  Lecco 891 

2.  From  Lecco  to  Bergamo 39i 

3.  By  land  from  Como  to  Bellaggio  via  Erba 392 

98.  From  Como  to  Milan 393 

Index 397 


Maps  and  Panoramas. 

1.  General  Map  of  Switzerland:  before  the  Title-page. 

2.  Map  of  the  District  between  Schaffhausen    and    Constance: 
RR.  9,  11,  12,  15,  16-,  between  pp.  20,  21. 

3    Map  of  the  Lake  of  Constance:  RR.  10, 15, 16-,  between  pp. 22,  23. 

4.  Map    of    the    Lake    of    Zurich:     RR.   13,    17,    18,  72%c,^iriweii^n 
pp.  40,  41.  .   VII  * 

5.  Panorama  from  the  Rigi  Kulm  :  between  pp.  64,65.         '    r^   -' 

6.  Map  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne:    RR.   14,  19,  20,  21,  2^3<J    'i^24*, 
between  pp.  68,  69. 

7.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  the   St.   Gotthard:  RB.  22,  23,  28,  29, 
30,  31,  76,  77  i  between  pp.  76,  77. 

8.  View  of  the  Alps  from  Bern:  between  pp.  96,  97. 

9.  Map  of  the  Bernese  Oberland:  RR.  27,  34  ^  between  pp.  100,  101. 

10.  Panorama  from  the  Faulhorn:  between  pp.  120,  121. 

11.  Map  of  the  Upper  Valais  :   RR.  32,  33,  61 ;  between  pp.  140,  141. 

12.  Wnorama  from  the  Eggischhorn:   between  pp.  142,  ll3. 

13.  Map  of  the  LowerValley  of  the  Rhone,  from  the  Lake  of  Geneva 
to  the  Lotschen  -  Thai :  RR.  34,  85,  37,  48,  and  58  —  61;  between 
pp.  146,  147. 

14.  Map  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva:  RR.  38,  89,  44,  46,  47,  48,  49; 
between  pp.  188,  189. 

15.  Map  of  the  Valley  of  Ghamouny:  RR.  51»55 ;  between  pp. 
214,  215. 

16.  Panorama  from  the  Fleg^re:  between  pp.  218,  219. 

17.  Map  of  the  En  virons  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  from  Martigny 
to  Aosta :  RR.  55.  56,  57,  59a ;  between  pp.  234,  235. 

18.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Monte  Rosa:  RR.  59,62,63,64;  between 
pp.  268,  269. 

19.  Panorama  from  the  Gorner  Grat:  between  pp.  270,  271. 

20.  Map  of  the  Canton  of  Appenzell:  RR.  17,  65,  66,  69;  between 
pp.  276,  277. 

21.  Map  of  Glarus:  RR.  70,  71,  74,  75;  between  pp.  292,  293. 

22.  Map  of  the  Vorder-Rheinthal:  RR.  76,  87;  between  pp.  304, 305. 

23.  Map  of  the  Upper  Engadine  and  Bernina:  RR.  81,  82,  84; 
between  pp.  324,  325. 

24.  Panorama  from  the  Piz  Languard:  between  pp.  330,  331. 

25.  Map  of  the  Lower  Engadine:  RR.  78,  79,  80,  81,  83,  85;  between 
pp.  334,  335. 

26.  Map  of  the  District  from  the  Lukmanier  to  the  Maloja:  RR.  22, 
77,  81,  88—90;  between  pp.  360,  361. 

27.  Map  of  the  Lago  Maggiore:  RR.  93,  94,  95,  96;  between  pp.  374,  375. 

28.  Map  of  the  Lakes    of   Como    and    Lugano:    RR.  91,  92,  96,  97; 
between  pp.  384,  385. 

29.  Key  Map  of  Switzerland:  after  the  Index. 


Flaaui  of  Towns:  B&le,  Bern,  Constance,  Geneva,   Interlaken, 
Lausanne,    Lucerne,  Milan,  Ragatz,  Zurich. 


I.    Plan  of  Ezcnrsion. 

Season  of  the  Tear.    Companioiu.    Distribution  of  Time. 

The  traveller  will  effect  a  considerable  saving  of  money  and  time 
by  preparing  his  plan  for  a  tour  before  leaving  home.  With  the  aid 
of  the  following  pages  it  will  be  easy  to  determine  precisely  the 
nil-  ^r^r  of  days  an  excursion  will  occupy,  the  most  convenient 
.  places,  and  in  fact  how  each  hour  may  be  disposed  of  to 
ti  t  advantage,  provided  always  the  elements  favour  the  travel- 

ler. The  latter  contingency  is  unfortunately  not  always  to  be  relied 
upon,  for  in  no  country  is  the  weather  more  capricious  than  in 
Switzerland,  and  r&in  is  particularly  annoying  on  a  tour  where 
large  towns  with  their  in-door  attractions  are  rare. 

Season.  The  most  favourable  time  for  a  tour  in  Switzerland 
is  from  the  middle  of  July  to  the  middle  of  September,  and  for 
expeditions  among  the  higher  Alps  the  month  of  August. 

It  sometimes  happens  in  summer  that  snow  accompanies  rain 
in  high  regions,  and  renders  the  mountain-paths  impassable ;  but 
these  are  exceptional  occurrences.  In  ordinary  seasons  the  snow 
disappears  from  the  Rigi  and  the  route  through  the  Bernese  Ober- 
land  at  the  beginning  of  June,  but  not  till  later  on  the  Furca, 
the  Grimsel,  and  the  Qemmi,  where  it  sometimes  lies  throughout 
the  season. 

Crompaaioni.  A  party  of  two  can  be  accommodated  in  a  one- 
horse  carriage  or  in  the  same  room  at  a  hotel ,  whilst  a  third 
would  often  be  found  *de  trop'.  The  more  the  number  is  ex- 
tended, as  a  general  rule,  the  greater  are  the  inconvenience  and 
the  certainty  that  many  of  the  true  objects  of  travel  will  be 
sacrificed.  The  single  traveller  who  has  attained  some  pro- 
ficiency in  the  language  of  the  country  will  most  speedily  become 
acquainted  with  the  people,  their  characteristics,  and  their  scenery, 
as  he  is  necessarily  compelled  to  seek  such  society  as  the  occa- 
sion affords. 

Distribution  of  Time.  Four  Weeks,  as  the  annexed  plan 
shows,  will  Suffice  for  an  energetic  traveller  to  visit  the  most  in- 
teresting parts  of  Switzerland. 

By  the  first  steamer  in  1^(2  hr.  from  Fnedrichiha/en  to  Constance ,  by   Days 
railway  (R.  9)  in  I8J4  hr.  to  Schaffhausen  ^  by  railway  in  10  min.  to 
Dachsen.    Walk  in  i|«  hr.  to  Schlos*  Lau/eriy  visit  the  Falh  of  the 
Rhine;  cross  the  Rhine  below  the  falls,  ascend  to  Nevhauten  (U.  11), 
return  by  the  railway  -  bridge  to  Dachsen,  and  proceed  by  railway 

to  Zurich  in  2  hrs * 

Bjbdbkkb,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  b 


xvm 


I.    PLAN  OF  EXCURSION. 


Days 


Zurich  and  the  Uetliberg  (R.  13),  Lake  of  Zurich  (R.  17) 1 

From  Zurich  in  1  hr.  to  Horgen  by  first  steamer,  to  Zug  in  3  hrs.  by 
diligence  (or  from  Zurich  to  Zug  by  railway  in  1>|4  hr.),  and  to 
Immensee  or  Arth  in  1  hr.  by  steamer,  or  from  Arth  to  Ooldau: 
Walk  to  the  Rigi-Kulm  in  Sifa  hrs.  (RR.  17,  18,  14,  20,  22>  .     .     . 

Descend  from  the  Rigi  in  2iJ2  hrs.  to  Wdggity  steamer  in  ijg  hr.  to 
Lucerne  (RR.  21,  22,  19) 

(Or :  Railway  from  Zurich  to  Lucerne  in  2  hrs.,  afternoon  steamboat 
to  Vitznau  in  1  hr.,  and  railway  to  the  top  of  the   Rigi  in  l^ja  hr.     ( 

(Walk  from  the  Rigi-Kulm  to  the  Rigi-Scheideck  in  2iizhrs.,  descend 
to  (Stersau  in  11(2  hr.,  steamboat  to  Teirs  Platte  *[4  hr.,  walk  to 
Fliielen  2»j2  hrs ( 

By  steamer  on  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  in  'i?\\  hrs.  to  Fiuelen^  driye  in 
2  hrs.  to  Amsteg^  walk  in  5  hrs.  to  Andermatt  by  the  St.  Ootthard 
route,  in  6  hrs.  to  Hoipenthal,  or  71J2  hrs.  to  Bealp  (RR.  22,  31)  .     . 

By  diligence  over  the  Furca  to  the  Okicier  of  the  Rhone^  walk  over 
the  Maienwand  and  the  Orimsel  to  the  Hospice  (R.  31) ;  from  Ander- 
matt to  the  Hospice  7  hrs 

Walk  down  the  Haslithal  (Fall  of  the  Aare  at  the  Handeck)  to  Meir- 
ingen  in  6  hrs.  from  the  Hospice  (R.  30) 

Walk  from  Meiringen  (Falls  of  the  Reichenbach)  through  the  Ber- 
nese Oberland,  by  the  8eheideck^  to  [the  Faulhorn  (R.  STT,  h.  i)   .     . 

Descend  the  Faulhorn  to]  Orindelwald ;  from  Meiringen  to  the  Scheid- 
eck  5iJ2)  thence  to  Grindelwald  2i{2  hrs.  (from  the  Scheideck  to  the 
Faulhorn  4,  descent  from  the  Faulhorn  to  Grindelwald  3  hrs.)^ 
Glaciers  of  Orindelwald  (R.  27,  g) 

Walk  from  Grindelwald  over  the  Wengern  Alp  in  8  hrs.  to  Lauter- 
brunnen  (Staubbach),  and  drive  thence  to  Jnterlaken  in  1*J2  hr. 
(R.  27,  f,  e) 

(Or  remain  at  Lauterbrunnen ,  and  visit  MUrren  and  the  Schmadri 
Fall  next  day,  R.  27,  f) ( 

Morning  at  Interlaken^  by  steamer  in  1  hr.  to  the  Giiessbeich 
(R.  27,  d,  1) -    .     .     .     . 

Next  morning  return  to  Interlaken  by  steamer  in  1  hr.  \  railway  in 
10  min.  to  Ddrligen ;  thence  by  steamer  in  1  hr.  to  Thun  (R.  27,  e), 
drive  in  1  hr.  to  Wimmis  (pedestrians  leave  the  steamer  at  Spiee 
and  walk  in  l^U  hr.  to  Wimmis)  i  walk  or  ride  in  5  hrs.  to  the 
summit  of  the  Niesen  (R.  27,  b) 

Descend  from  the  Niesen  to  Frutigen  in  3i|4  hrs.  i  drive  thence  in 
13|4,  or  walk  in  2^12  hrs.  to  Kandersteg  (R.  34) 

Walk  from  Kandersteg  in  7  hrs.  over  the  Oemmi  to  the  Batlis  of 
Leuk  (R.  34) 

Walk  to  Susten  in  2i}2  hrs.  (R.  34),  drive  in  2  hrs.  to  Vispach 
(R.  61),  walk  to  8t.  Nicolaus  in  43J4  hrs.  (R.  63) ^ 

Walk  to  the  Riffel  in  8  hrs.  (R.  65) 

Walk  from  the  Riffel  Inn  to  the  Oorner  Grat  and  back  3  hrs.  \  in 
the  evening  to  Zermatt  2  hrs.  (R.  66) 

Return  on  foot  to  Vispach  in  8  hrs.  (R.  63) 

By  diligence  in  3i|2  hrs.  to  Sierre^  thence  by  railway  in-li|4  hr.  to 
Mariigny  (R.  61) 

Walk  to  Chamouny  over  the  Col  de  Balme  or  the  TVte  Noire  in  9  hrs. 
(RR.  63,  54) 

Chamouny  (R.  52) 

By  diligence  to  Geneva  in  6*|2  hrs.  (R.  51) 

Geneva  and  its  Environs  (RR.  46^  47) 

By  steamer  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva  in  3  hrs.  to  LausannCy  a  few  hours 
at  Lausanne,  and  in  the  evening  by  last  steamer  in  P\2  hr.  to 
Villeneuve  (R.  48) 

Walk  to  Ghillony  MontreuXy  Clarensy  Vevay  (R.  48).  3  hrs.  i  but  by 
halting  at  the  various  points  of  attraction  a  whole  day  may  be 
spent ; 


) 


r,    PLAN  OF  EXCURSION.  XIX 

Day* 

By  (diligence  and)  railway  from  Vevaff  to  Freiburg  in  4*|2  hrs.  (R.  9B)      i 

By  railway  to  Bern  in  1  br.  (R.  39) t 

By  railway  to  Bdie  in  4  hrs.  (R.  5) 1 

Should  the  travelleT  have  a  few  days  more  at  command,  they 
may  be  pleasantly  spent  in  Eaftem  Switserlaiid  (Appenzell, 
Bad  Pfaffers,  Via  Mala,  Upper  Engadine\  whence  the  Italian 
Lakes   are   conveniently   visited.     Rorschach   (p.  37)  and  Ziirich 

are  good  starting-points  (comp.  R.  17). 

Days 

Walk  from  Rorschach  to  Beiden.,  over  the  Kaien  to  Trogen^  and 
over  the  Odbris  to  Oais^  in  all  7  hrs.  (R.  65) 1 

Walk  from  Gais  to  Weissbadj  the  WildkircMiy  and  the  Sbenalp;  re- 
turn to  Weissbad,  thence  to  Appemelly  6  hrs.  (R.  65) 1 

Walk  from  Appenzell  to  Qaity  and  over  the  8tos*  to  AlUtdtten  in 
the  Valley  of  the  Rhine  in  5  hrs.  (R.  63),  by  train  in  V\i  hr.  to 
RagaU  (R.  66) 1 

Pfaffen  and  Coirt  (RR.  67,  68) 1 

By  diligence  in  3  hrs.  to  TUum^  walk  through  the  Yia  Mala  as  far 
as  the  third  bridge  over  the  Rhine,  and  return  to  Thusis  In 
3  hrs.  (R.  87),  walk  in  4  hrs.  by  the  Schyn  Road  to  Tie/enkasten 
(R.  87) 1 

By  diligence  in  6>|s  hrs.  over  the  Albula  Pass  to  Pante  (R.  80),  and 
in  40  min.  to  Samaden  (R.  83);  walk  in  l^js  hr.  to  Pontresina 
(R.  82) 1 

Ascend  the  Piz  Languard  (R.  82) 1 

By  diligence  in  7»J8  hrs.  over  the  Bemina  to  Tirano^  thence  by  Mes- 
sagerie  to  Sondrio  in  3  hrs.  (R.  84)  (or  by  diligence  in  8'|g  hrs. 
over  the  Maloja  to  Chiavenna  and  Colicd) 1 

By  Messagerie  to  Colico  in  6  hrs.  (R.  84),  thence  by  steamer  to  Como 
in  3  hrs.  (R.  97)  (Train  to  Milan  in  l^js  hr.) I 

Return  by  the  Lake  of  Como,  visit  Bellaggio  (  Villa  Melziy  Serbelloni^ 
and  Carlotta)  and  proceed  by  Menaggio  and  Porlezza  to  Lugano 
(see  p.  385) 1 

By  diligence  from  Lugano  in  2  hrs.  to  Luino  (R.  96),  by  steamer  to 
the  Borroinean  Islands  in  l'|2  hr.,  and  to  Arona  in  1  hr.  [Railway 
to  Turin,  Genoa  (in  6  hrs.)  etc.,  see  Baedeker" s  N.  Italy]      ...       1 

By  omnibus  in  3  hrs.  to  Orta  on  the  lake  of  that  name,  by  rowing- 
boat  to  Omegna  in  li|2  hr.,  drive  or  walk  to  Oravellona  (R.  95) 
[or  walk  in  3  hrs.  to  the  Sacro  Monte  (p.  381),  and  by  the  Monte 
Motterone  (p.  380)  to  Stresa  (p.  378),  or  to  Baveno  (p.  3t7)],  and  by 
diligence  to  Donu)  d'^Ossola  (R.  61) i 

By  diligence  over  the  Simplon  to  Brieg  and  Visptich  (R.  61)    .    .     .      1 


Instead  of  the  Bemina  Pass  (R.  84),  the  traveller  may  select 
the  Splfigen  (RR.  87,  S8),  or  the  St.  Gotthard  (R.  22).  The 
St.  Gotthard  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  Alpine  passes,  after 
which  the  Spliigen  and  the  Simplon  possess  equal  claims,  the 
former  being  more  interesting  on  the  N.,  the  latter  on  the  S 
side.  The  pass  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard  (R.  56)  is  the  least 
interesting,  irrespective  of  its  hospice. 

The  following  Konntain  Tour  is  recommended  to  good 
walkers  as  one  of  the  most  imposing  in  Switzerland:  From 
Ghamouny  by  the  Col  de  Bonhomme,  the  Col  de  la  Seigne,  Cour- 
mayeur,  the  Col  de  Ferret  (R.  55),  the  hospice  of  the  Great  St. 


XX      n.  TRAVELLING  EXPENSES.  MONEY. 

Bernard,  Aosta  (R.  56),  Ghatillon,  the  Matterjoch,  Zermatt 
(R.  63),  Saas,  Monte  More,  Macugnaga  (R.  62),  Yarallo,  Orta, 
and  Monte  Motterone  to  Lago  Maggiore  (R..94).  The  excursion 
will  occupy  10 — 11  days  of  9 — 10  hrs.  each;  guides  hardly 
necessary  except  for  the  Matterjoch  and  the  Monte  Moro  passes. 
The  most  celebrated  FointB  of  View,  most  of  them  easy  of 
access  and  much  frequented,  are:  — 

1.  In  the  Jura  (the  Alps  in  the  distance,  the  lower  mountains  of 
Switzerland  to  the  K.E.  in  the  foreground,  and  more  to  the  E.  the  lakes 
of  Bienne,  Keuchatel,  and  Geneva) :  Bdtel  Schweizerhof  (pp.  20,  28)  near  th  e 
Falls  of  the  Rhine ;  the  Weissenstein  (p.  12)  near  Soleure  i  the  Frohburg 
(p.  9)  near  Olten;  the  Chautnont  (p.  167)  and  the  Col  den  Loges  (p.  168) 
in  the  canton  of  Neuchatel  ^  the  Signal  de  Bougy  (p.  190)  and  the  D6le 
(p.  190)  in  the  Canton  de  Yaud. 

2.  Kearer  the  Alps  or  among  the  Lower  Alps: 

(a).  On  the  K.  side  of  the  Alps :  the  Kaien  (p.  277),  Hohe  Kasten 
(p.  279) ,  and  Sentis  (p.  280)  in  the  canton  of  Appenzell  \  the  Uetliberg 
(p.  33)  and  Bachtel  (p.  43)  near  Zurich  *,  the  8peer  (p.  45)  near  Wesen  \ 
the  Rigi  (p.  59),  Myihen  (p.  58),  Pilatus  (p.  54),  and  the  Frohnalp  (p.  73), 
near  the  Lake  of  Lucerne ;  the  Niesen  (p.  102)  near  the  Lake  of  Thun  \ 
the  MoUson  (p.  157)  and  Jaman  (p.  158)  in  the  canton  of  Freiburg  \  the 
SdUve  (p.  186)  in  Savoy,  near  Geneva. 

(b)  On  the  S.  side  of  the  Alps :  Monte  Generoso  (p.  369)  and  Monte  S. 
Scdvatore  (p.  372)  near  the  Lake  of  Lugano^  Monte  Motterone  (p.  380) 
between  the  lakes  Haggiore  and  Orta ;  the  Becca  di  Nona  (p.  240)  near 
Aosta;  the  Cramont  (p.  231)  near  Gourmayeur. 

8.  Among  the  High  Alps:  the  Piz  Languard  (p.  331)  and  Piz  Ot 
(p.  329),  Pit  Lischan  (p.  339),  Schtcarzhorn  (p.  315),  StUtzerhom  (p.  320), 
and  Piz  Mundaun  (p.  306)  in  the  canton  of  the  Orisons;  the  Schynige 
Platte  (p.  109),  the  Faulhorn  (p.  120),  the  M&nnlichen  (p.  119),  Murren 
(p.  113),  and  the  Sehilthom  (p.  113)  in  the  Bernese  Oberland ;  the  Pizzo 
Centrale  (p.  82)  on  the  St.  Gotthard ;  the  Sidelhom  (p.  136).  the  Eggiseh- 
horn  (p.  141),  the  Sparrentuym  (p.  256),  the  Torrenthom  (p.  149),  the  Balm- 
horn  (p.  147),  the  Oorner  Oral  (271),  and  the  Bella  Tola  (p.  249)  in  the 
Valais ;  the  Col  de  Balme  (p.  226),  the  FUgkre  (p.  218),  and  the  Br^tent 
(p.  219)  near  Chamouny ;  the  Piz  Umbrail  (p.  347)  on  the  Stelvio  route. 

n.    Travelling  Expenses.    Money. 

The  expense  of  a  tour  in  Switzerland  depends  entirely  upon 
the  resources,  habits,  and  tastes  of  the  traveller.  The  pedes- 
trian's daily  expenditure  may,  exclusive  of  guides,  be  estimated 
at  12 — 158.,  if  he  frequents  the  best  hotels;  but  a  great  saving 
is  effected  by  selecting  inns  of  more  moderate  pretension,  and 
avoiding  expensive  and  tedious  tables  d'h6te.  The  traveller  who 
avails  himself  of  all  the  public  conveyances,  frequents  the 
best  hotels,  and  in  mountainous  districts  engages  the  services  of 
horses  and  guides,  must  be  prepared  to  expend  25 — SO^.  per 
diem  at  least. 

The  Swiss  monetary  system  was  assimilated  to  that  of  France 
in  1851.  Coins  of  5,  2,  1,  and  1/2  fr-  in  sUver;  20,  10,  and 
5  centimes  (or  '  Rappen ')  in  plated  copper ;  2  and  1  c.  in 
copper.  1  fr.  =  100  c.  =  (in  German  money)  8  Silber- 
groschen  or  28  Rhenish  kreuzers  s=  8^/4  d.     French  gold  is  the 


ni.    HOTELS  AND  PENSIONS.  XXI 

most  convenient  coin,  especially  for  N.  Italy.  German  florins 
(2  fr.  15  c),  in  the  larger  towns  and  hotels  of  the  N.  and  E.  of 
Switzerland,  are  exchanged  for  2  fr.  10  c. ,  dollars  (3  fr.  75  c.) 
for  3  fr.  70  c.  English  sovereigns  (25  fr.)  and  banknotes  are 
received  at  the  full  value  at  all  the  principal  hotels  and  towns  in 
Switzerland  and  N.  Italy.  The  circular  notes  of  iOl.,  issued  by 
many  of  the  English  banks,  are  recommended  as  a  safe  and  con- 
venient form  for  transporting  large  sums. 


m.    Hotels  and  Pensions. 

Hotels  may  be  said  to  be  a  specialty  of  Switzerland.  The 
modern  establishments  at  Bern,  Geneva,  Vevay,  Zurich,  Lucerne, 
and  Interlaken  are  models  of  organisation  on  a  most  extensive 
scale.  The  smaller  inns  are  often  equally  well  conducted ,  and 
indeed  in  French  and  German  Switzerland  a  really  bad  hotel  is 
rarely  met  with. 

The  ordniary  charges  in  the  first-class  hotels  are :  bedroom 
2  fr.  and  upwards,  table  d'h6te  without  wine  at  1  o'clock  3 — 4  fr., 
at  4  o'clock  or  later  4 — 5  fr. ;  breakfast  (tea  or  coffee,  bread, 
butter,  and  honey)  l^/a  ^r.  in  the  public  room,  2  fr.  in  the 
traveller's  apartment;  candles  1  fr.,  service  1  fr.j  supper  gener- 
ally h  la  carte.     (Abbreviations,  see  p.  XLII.) 

At  the  second-class  inns  the  average  charges  are:  bedroom 
1^2  fr.,  breakfast  1  fr.,  table  d'h6te  2 — 3  fr. ,  service  discre- 
tionary, and  no  charge  for  'bougies'.  At  the  large  hotels  the 
best  accommodation  is  generally  reserved  for  families,  while  the 
solitary  traveller  is  consigned  to  the  inferior  rooms  at  equally 
high  charges. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  estimation  in  which  hotels 
are  held  varies  very  much  with  the  temperament  of  the  visitors 
themselves.  Some  are  more  exacting  than  others,  give  orders 
totally  at  variance  with  the  customs  of  the  country,  and  express 
great  dissatisfaction  if  their  wishes  are  not  immediately  complied 
with;  others  travel  with  a  superabundance  of  luggage,  which  is 
often  apt  to  embitter  their  enjoyment;  and  there  is  also  a 
numerous  class  whose  ignorance  of  foreign  languages  causes  them 
frequent  embarrassment  and  discomfort. 

In  the  dull  season  (October  to  June)  many  hotels  are  con- 
verted into  Tensions'  or. boarding-houses,  in  which  gr.ests  are 
received  by  the  week  on  terms  ranging  from  3  to  8  fr.  per  diem. 
This  charge  comprises  bedroom ,  breakfast ,  table  d'h6te  without 
wine,  and  supper  (tea,  bread  and  butter,  and  cold  meat);  attend- 
ance about  5  fr.  per  month.  Pensions  for  the  reception  of 
summer  visitors  abound  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lucerne,  Geneva, 
Interlaken,  and  many  other  parts  of  Switzerland. 


XXn  IV.    PASSPORTS. 

Wine  ig  often  a  source  of  much  vexation.  The  ordinary  table  wines 
are  sometimes  so  bad  that  the  traveller  is  compelled  to  drink  those  of  a 
more  expensive  class,  which  is  indeed  the  very  aim  and  object  of  the 
landlord.  The  wisest  course  is  to  select  a  wine  which  is  the  growth  of 
the  country  \  in  K.  and  E.  Switzerland  the  produce  of  8ehaffhauun  or 
Winterthur  is  recommended ,  in  the  Orisons  Valtellina  (p.  343)  (better 
qualities  of  which  are  Sassella^  Inferno,  S/orzato,  Co*  Bianea,  etc.),  in  the 
Valais  the  wine  of  the  canton,  in  the  W.  of  Switzerland  Laedte  (p.  174), 
Lavaux  (p.  192),  Yvorne  (p.  198),  and  Neuchdtel  (p.  165). 

If  a  prolonged  stay  is  made  at  a  hotel,  the  bill  should  be  demanded 
every  3  or  4  days,  in  order  that  errors,  whether  accidental  or  designed, 
may  the  more  easily  be  detected.  When  an  early  departure  is  contem- 
plated, the  bill  should  be  obtained  over-night.  It  is  a  favourite  practice 
to  withhold  the  bill  till  the  last  moment,  when  the  hurry  and  confusion 
render  overcharges  less  liable  to  discovery. 

IV.    Passports. 

In  Switzerland  and  N.  Italy,  as  well  as  in  France  and  Austria, 
passports  are  now  unnecessary,  but  as  these  documents  are  Issued 
by  the  English  Foreign  Office  on  .inexpensive  terms,  and  are 
sometimes  of  service  in  proving  the  traveller's  identity,  obtain- 
ing delivery  of  registered  letters,  etc.,  it  is  un^vise  not  to  be 
provided  with  one.  The  principal  passport-agents  in  London 
are:  Lee  and  Carter,  440  West  Strand;  Dorrel  and  Son,  15 
Charing  Cross;  E.  Stanford,  6  Charing  Cross;  W.  J.  Adams,  59 
Fleet  Street.  In  France  the  obnoxious  system  was  revived  in 
1871,  but  again  abolished  in  1873. 


V.   Walking  Excursions. 

The  pedestrian  is  of  all  travellers  the  most  independent,  and 
beyond  all  others  capable,  both  physically  and  morally,  of  en- 
joying  a  tour  in  Switzerland. 

Disposition  of  Time.  The  first  golden  rule  for  the  pedestrian 
is  to  start  on  his  way  betimes  in  the  morning.  If  strength  per> 
mits,  and  a  suitable  halting-place  is  to  be  met  with,  a  two  hours^ 
walk  may  be  accomplished  before  breakfast.  At  noon  a  moderate 
luncheon  is  preferable  to  the  regular  table  d'h6te  dinner.  Re- 
pose should  be  taken  during  the  hottest  hours,  and  the  journey 
then  continued  till  5  or  6  p.  m. ,  when  a  substantial  meal 
(evening  table  d'h6te  at  the  principal  hotels)  may  be  partaken 
of.  The  traveller's  own  feelings  will  best  dictate  the  hour  for 
retiring  to  bed. 

Lnggage.  -The  greatest  drawback  to  the  enjoyment  of  tra- 
velling is  a  superabundance  of  baggage.  To  be  provided  with  an 
actual  sufficiency  and  no  more,  may  be  considered  the  second 
golden  rule  for  the  traveller.  It  Is  Impossible  to  over-estimate 
the  comfort  of  being  independent  of  that  industrious  fraternity 
who  make  a  prey  of  the  overburdened  traveller.    Who  has  not  ex- 


V.    WALKING  EXCURSIONS.  XXHl 

perienced  the  exultation  Tf^hich  attends  the  shouldering  of  the  knap- 
sack or  wielding  of  the  carpet-hag,  on  quitting  a  steamboat  or  rail- 
-way  station  ?  Who  in  his  turn  has  not  felt  the  misery  of  that  moment 
"when,  surrounded  by  his  impedimenta",  the  luckless  tourist  is 
almost  distracted  by  the  rival  claims  of  porters,  touters,  and  com- 
missionaires? A  light  'gibeci^re'  or  game-bag,  such  as  may  be 
procured  in  every  town ,  amply  suffices  to  contain  all  that  is 
necessary  for  a  fortnight's  excursion.  A  change  of  flannel  skirts 
and  worsted  stockings ,  a  few  pocket-handkerchiefs ,  a  pair  of 
slippers ,  and  the  necessary  'objets  de  toilette'  may  be  carried 
with  hardly  a  perceptible  increase  of  fatigue.  A  piece  of  green 
crape  or  coloured  spectacles  to  protect  the  eyes  from  the  glare  of 
the  snow,  and  a  leather  drinking-cup  will  also  be  found  useful. 
The  traveller  may  have  a  more  extensive  reserve  of  clothing, 
especially  if  he  proposes  to  visit  towns  of  importance,  but  even 
these  should  be  contained  in  a  valise,  which  he  can  easily  wield, 
and  may  forward  from  town  to  town  by  means  of  the  post. 

Bules.  The  enthusiastic  traveller  should  curb  his  ardour  at 
the  outset  of  his  excursion,  and  begin  by  moderate  performances, 
which  should  rarely  exceed  ten  hours  a  day.  Animal  spirits 
are  too  often  in  excess  of  powers  of  endurance;  overtaxing  the 
strength  on  a  single  occasion  sometimes  incapacitates  altogether  for 
several  days.  Discrimination  is  often  requisite  to  determine  what 
degree  of  fatigue  can  be  borne  with  impunity,  and  when  walk- 
ing should  be  abandoned  for  the  ease  of  a  carriage ;  but  all  these 
experiences  will  be  acquired  without  the  aid  of  a  guide-book. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  when  a  mountain  has  to  be  breasted,  the 
prudent  pedestrian  will  pursue  the  'even  tenor  of  his  way'  with 
regular  and  steady  steps  (^chi  va  piano  va  sano;  chi  va  sano 
va  lontano*);  the  novice  alone  indulges  in  'spurts'.  If  the  tra- 
veller will  have  a  third  golden  maxim  for  his  guidance  it  may 
be,   'When  fatigue  begins,  enjoyment  ceases'. 

Excursions  amongst  the  higher  Alps  should  not  be  undertaken 
before  July,  nor  at  any  period  after  a  long  continuance  of  rain 
or  snow.  Glaciers  should,  if  possible,  be  traversed  before  10 
a.  m.,  after  which  hour  the  rays  of  the  sun  soften  the  crust  of 
ice  formed  during  the  night  over  the  fissures  and  crevasses.  It 
is  hardly  necessary  to  state  that  experienced  guides  are  ab- 
solutely indispensable  for  such  excursions. 

The  anticipations  of  a  tour  in  Switzerland,  which  is  usually 
painted  'couleur  de  rose',  not  unfrequently  receive  a  rude  shock 
from  actual  experience.  The  first  night  in  a  Chalet  dispels 
many  illusions.  Whatever  poetry  there  may  be  theoretically  in 
a  bed  of  hay,  the  usual  concomitants  of  the  cold  night-air 
piercing  abundant  apertures,  the  ringing  of  the  cow-bells,  the 
sonorous  grunting  of  the  swine,  and  the   undiscarded  garments, 


XXIV  VI.    MAPS. 

hardly  contribute  to  that  refreshing  slumber  of  which  the  wearied 
traveller  stands  in  need. 

Over  all  the  movements  of  the  pedestrian  the  Weather  holds 
despotic  sway.  Those  who  claim  acquaintance  with  the  elements 
and  their  signs  will  tell  him  of  numberless  indications  by  which 
either  foul  or  favourable  weather  may  be  predicted,  and  their 
advice  will  often  prove  valuable.  The  barometer,  too,  should 
be  consulted  when  an  opportunity  offers. 

Health.  For  wounds  and  bruises j  which  few  altogether  escape 
in  a  protracted  excursion,  tincture  of  arnica  is  a  good  remedy, 
and  moreover  has  a  bracing  and  invigorating  effect  if  rubbed  on 
the  limbs  after  much  fatigue.  Saturnine  ointment  is  beneficial 
in  cases  of  inflammation  of  the  skin,  an  inconvenience  frequently 
caused  by  exposure  to  the  glare  of  the  sun  on  the  snow.  Gold 
cream,  and,  for  the  lips  especially,  collodion  or  glycerine  are 
also  recommended. 

For  diarrhGBa  15  drops  of  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  tinc- 
ture of  opium  and  aromatic  tincture  may  be  safely  taken  every 
two  hours  until  relief  is  afforded.  The  homoeopathic  tincture 
of  camphor  is  also  recommended. 

VI.  Maps. 

1.  Maps  of  Switzerland  on  one  sheet:  — 

*Zi€gler's  Map  of  Switzerland  (1  :  380,000),  with  explanations 
and  index.    Winterthur,  1866.    Price  12  fr. 

Zieglers  Hypsometr.  Map  (1  :  380,000),  4  sheets,  20  fr. 
*Leuthold's  Map  (1  :  400,000),  10  fr. 
KelUrs  Map  (1  :  450,000),  6  fr. 
*Leuzingers  Map  (1  :  400,000),  10  fr. 

2.  Topographic  Maps  on  a  larger  scale:   — 
*Topographie  Map  of  Switzerland,  from  surveys  made. by  order 

of  the  Federal  authorities  (under  the  superintendence  of  General 
Dufour);  scale  1  :  100,000;  25  sheets,  each  1  to  21/2  fr.  (not 
mounted).  Heights  given  in  French  metres.  The  following 
sketch  exhibits  the  area  embraced  by  each. 

An  admirable  work  on  a  still  larger  scale  is  the  *Topogra- 
phische  Atlas  der  SchweiZy  on  the  scale  of  the  original  drawings 
(flat  districts  1 :  25,000,  mountains  1 :  50,000),  published  by  the 
Federal  Staff  Office.  The  sheets  now  completed  comprise  the 
Bernese  Jura  District,  the  environs  of  Bern  and  Interlaken,  the 
Bernese  Oberland,  the  St.  Gotthard,  and  the  Bernardino. 

A  number  of  Cantonal  Maps  on  the  scale  of  the  original 
drawings  have  also  been  published  by  the  different  cantons 
(some  of  them  still  uncompleted).  Thus,  St.  Gallen  and  Appen- 
zell  in  16  sheets,  Geneva  in  4,  Lucerne  in  10,  and  Zurich  in 
32,  all   on  the    scale  of  1:25,000;   then  Argovie  in   4  sheets, 


VI.    MAPS.  XXV 

Fieibutg  Id  4,  Geuev*,  OUnia,  Oriaoiis,  TiciiiQ,  Uri,  VlMX- 
woldea,  Vftud  (;12  gb«et«X  and  Valus  au  the  scale  of  1  :  0O,lKIO. 
The  maps  pubUahed  by  the  Svut  Alpine  Club  (.1 :  50,000) 
are  specially  adapted  for  the  use  of  travellera  ^  St.  Gotthard  in 
4  sheets,  the  S.  yalleyt  of  tite  VaLais  iu  8  sheets,  the  Silvietta, 
Xodi  group,  Tiift  le^oa,  Lukoianiei,  and  Bjunenthal.  Foi 
Chamouny,  the  Massif  du  Montbluic  |,l:40,000j,  by  Mitultl. 


■ UJ 

r^ 

/^)^ 

/ 

^^^ 

v^^ 

L>? 

"iT'" 

-d 

5« 

^ 

S.   Btlitfi. 

Hen  E,  B<efc  of  Bern  1b  about  to  publish  sn  admirable  lellef- 
map  of  Swltzeiland  on  the  scale  of  1  :  100,000,  scea  60  aq.  ft., 
25  fr.  per  sq.  ft.  Beck's  reliefs  on  a  smaller  scale  are  also  well 
eieeuted:  Switzerland  (1  :  500,0001  'i  one  map,  18  fr.,  coloured 
25  ft. ;  another  (1  :  900,000)  8  fr. ,  to  told  up  10  fr. ;  Interlaken 
and  the  Obetland  (1  ;  200,000)  6  fr. ;  Lake  ot  Lucerne  (1  :  200,000) 
7  fr. ;  Lauterbrunuen  to  Oriudelwald  5  fr, ;  Valley  of  Engelbeig 
U  fr, ;  Simplon  route  and  valleys  of  Vlspach   (1  :  200,000)  8  fr. 

Blirgy'i  lelief'maps,  published  by  Georg  at  Bale,  are  also 
well  executed. 

vn.   Onides. 

On  well-trodden  routes  like  those  of  the  Rigi,  Pilatus,  Wen- 
gern  Alp,  Faulborn,  Scheideck,  GriniBel,  Gemmi,  etc.,  the  aervioaa 
ot  a  guide  may  well  be  dispensed  with,  and  it  the  traveller 
withes  to  diseDCUDiber  himself  of  his  knapsack,  the  tirst  urchin 
he  meets  will   gladly   transfer   it   to  his  shoulders   for  a  trifling 


XXVI  VII.    GUIDES. 

gratuity ,  but  for  the  more  difficult  routes,  guides  are  indispen- 
sable. They  will  be  found,  as  a  class,  to  be  intelligent  and  re- 
spectable men,  well  versed  in  their  duties,  and  acquainted  with 
the  people  and  resources  of  the  country. 

The  great  stations  for  guides  are  Thun,  Interlaken,  Grindel- 
wald,  Meiringen,  Lauterbrunnen,  Lucerne,  Arth,  Zug,  Martigny, 
Ohamouny,  Zermatt,  and  Pontresina,  while  for  the  principal 
passes  guides  are  always  to  be  found  at  the  neighbouring  villages. 
The  usual  pay  of  a  guide  is  6 — 8  fr.  for  a  day  of  8  hrs. ;  he 
is  bound  to  carry  15 — 20  pounds  of  baggage,  and  to  hold  him- 
self at  the  entire  disposition  of  his  employer,  whose  temporary 
servant  he  is.  They  generally  demand  6  fr,  a  day  for  returning 
home;  but,  as  they  have  nothing  to  carry,  better  terms  may 
occasionally  be  made  with  them,  and  they  are  bound  to  return 
by  the  shortest  practicable  route. 

Although  a  guide  adds  considerably  to  the  traveller's  expen- 
ses, the  outlay  will  seldom  be  regretted.  A  good  guide  points 
out  a  multitude  of  objects  which  the  best  maps  fail  to  indicate; 
he  furnishes  useful  and  Interesting  information  on  manners  and 
habits,  on  battle-fields  and  historical  incidents,  on  military 
routes  and  positions ;  and  when  the  traveller  reaches  his  hotel, 
wearied  with  the  fatigues  of  the  day,  his  guide  often  renders 
him  valuable  service. 

Divided  among  a  party,  the  expense  of  a  guide  is  of  course 
greatly  diminished;  but  as  he  is  not  bound  to  carry  more  than 
20  pounds  of  baggage,  it  is  often  more  useful  to  hire  a  horse 
or  mule,  the  attendant  of  which  will  serve  as  a  guide  on  the 
ordinary  routes. 

Adult  porters  are  entitled  to  75  cent,  or  1  fr.  an  hour,  when 
not  engaged  by  the  day,  return  Included.  It  is  advisable  to  make 
a  distinct  bargain  previously  to  engaging  their  services,  a  sum 
being  agreed  upon  which  shall  comprise  food ,  return,  and  the 
inevitable  *pourboire',  or  extra  gratuity.  A  certain  amount  of 
good  fellowship  and  confidence  should  subsist  between  the  traveller 
and  the  individual  who  is  perhaps  to  be  his  sole  companion  for 
several  days.  The  judicious  traveller  will  know  when  to  make 
with  advantage  the  offer  of  a  cigar  or  the  spirit  -  flask ,  such 
attentions  on  his  part  being  seldom  thrown  away. 

Travellers  desirous  of  engaging  a  thoroughly  trustworthy  guide 
should  be  careful  to  select  one  of  the  certificated  ^  who  have 
passed  a  certain  examination,  and  are  furnished  with  legal  certi- 
ficates of  character  and  qualifications. 


xxvn 


Vm.    CarriagM  and  Horses. 


Good  yehicles  are  to  be  found  in  every  part  of  Switzerland, 
but  should  be  inspected  before  any  bargain  is  entered  into.  If 
the  journey  is  to  be  of  considerable  length,  it  is  desirable  to 
have  a  Written  Agreement  drawn  up,  which  the  voitarier  usually 
concludes  by  depositing  a  sum  with  his  employer  as  earnest- 
money,  afterwards  to  be  added  to  the  account.  The  traveller  has 
a  right  to  select  the  hotels  •where  the  night  is  to  be  passed, 
the  driver  being  entitled  to  determine  where  rest  during  the 
day  shall  be  taken.  Private  posting,  or  the  system  of  changing 
horses,  is  forbidden  by  law. 

The  ordinary  charge  for  a  carriage  with  one  horse  is  15 — ^20  fr., 
with  two  horses  25 — 30  fr.  per  diem,  and  the  driver  expects 
1  fr.  per  horse  as  a  gratuity.  In  the  height  of  summer  slightly 
increased  terms  are  demanded.  Like  the  guides,  the  voiturier 
demands  the  return-fare  to  the  place  where  he  was  engaged,  and 
the  traveller  should  therefore  endeavour  so  to  arrange  his  journey 
that  he  may  discharge  his  carriage  as  near  the  home  of  the 
driver  as  possible. 

Return-conveyances  may  sometimes  be  obtained  for  10  to 
15  fr.  per  day,  but  the  oise  of  them  is  in  some  places  pro- 
hibited. 

The  average  day's  journey  is  30 — 40  miles,  a  halt  being  made 
of  2 — 3  hours  about  noon;  and  for  the  return -journey  about 
36  M. 

In  mountainous  districts ,  inaccessible  to  heavy  carriages, 
^Bergwaglf  or  'chars-li-bancs',  for  two  persons  only,  may  be 
hired  for  12 — 15  fr.  per  day,  fees  included. 

A  Horse  or  Mule  costs  10 — 12  fr.  per  day,  and  the  con- 
ductor expects  a  trifling  additional  gratuity  (1 — 2  fr.).  If  he 
cannot  return  with  his  horse  on  the  same  day  to  the  place  from 
which  he  started ,  the  following  day  must  be  paid  for.  Good 
walkers  will  of  course  prefer  to  dispense  with  the  aid  of  a  horse. 
A  prolonged  ascent  on  horseback  is  fatiguing,  the  descent  disa- 
greeable. Even  ladies  may  walk  without  difficulty  to  the  most 
frequented  summits,  but  if  unequal  to  the  task  they  should 
engage  'chaises-2i-porteurs\ 

IX.    Diligences,  Fost-Offtce,  Telegraph,  etc. 

Diligeneet.  Considering  the  mountainous  nature  of  the 
country,  the  postal  communications  in  Switzerland  are  ad- 
mirably organised,  although  slow.  The  public  conveyances  for 
travellers  are  under  the  control  of  government;  they  are  gener- 
ally well  fitted  up  and  provided  with  respectable  drivers  and 
conductors,    and   the   fares   are   moderate.     They  consist  of  the 


XXVHI  IX.    DILIGENCES,  etc. 

coupe,  or  flrst-dass  compartmeBt  in  front,  with  2 — 3  seats,  the 
inUrieur,  or  second  class  compartment  at  the  back,  with  4 — 6 
seats,  which  affords  little  or  no  view,  and  the  banquette  (used 
in  summer  only)  for  2  passengers  on  the  outside.  Some  vehicles 
have  one  outside  seat  only,  which  is  reserved  for  the  eondueteury 
or  guard,  but  he  is  generally  willing  to  cede  it  for  a  fee  of 
1  fr.  per  stage.  On  unimportant  routes  the  coup^  may  be 
secured  3  days,  on  the  great  Alpine  routes  30  days  beforehand. 
This  may  be  done  by  letter,  entlosing  the  fare,  stating  the 
traveller's  name,  and  specifying  the  day  and  hour  of  departure. 
In  summer  the  coup^  seats  are  often  thus  engaged.  When  the 
diligence  is  full,  'Beiwagen',  or  supplementary  carriages  are  pro- 
vided. These  are  often  light ,  open  vehicles ,  preferable  to  the 
lumbering  'Postwagen'.  A  seat  in  one  of  them  may  generally 
be  procured  by  arrangement  with  the  conductor.  As'  a  rule 
passengers  are  consigned  to  the  intirieur  or  to  a  supplementary 
carriage  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  booked.  If  therefore 
the  traveller  has  failed  to  secure  a  eoupe  or  banquette  seat 
by  early  application ,  he  will  probably  succeed  in  avoiding  the 
objectionable  intirieur  by  delaying  to  take  his  ticket  till  the 
diligence  is  about  to  start.  The  fare  for  a  seat  in  the  eoupi 
or  on  the  banquette  is  on  ordinary  routes  80  c.  per  league  of 
3  M. ,  on  mountainous  routes  1  fr.  15  c.  per  league;  fare  in 
the  intSrieur  65  c.  and  1  fr.  respectively.  Children  of  2 — ^7 
years  of  age  pay  half-fare.  Each  passenger  is  allowed  40  lbs. 
of  luggage  free;  overweight  is  charged  for  at  the  ordinary 
postal  tariff.  Small  articles  may  be  taken  into  the  carriage,  but 
heavy  luggage  should  be  booked  one  hour  before  starting.  The 
average  speed  of  these  sedate  'mail-coaches'  of  Switzerland, 
including  stoppages,  is  about  6  M.  per  hour  on  level,  and  4  M. 
per  hour  on  mountainous  routes. 

Friyate  Diligences.  A  diligence  may  be  hired  by  a  party  at 
any  of  the  principal  stations,  provided  they  engage  all  the  seats 
at  a  charge  of  1^2  ^'«  6*ch  per  league  on  ordinary,  or  1^/4  fr. 
on  mountainous  routes.  The  vehicle  is  then  placed  entirely  at 
the  disposal  of  the  travellers,  who  may  halt  for  meals  or  for 
the  night  wherever  they  desire ,  provided  they  give  due  notice 
of  their  intention. 

Extra-Post.  This  is  the  term  applied  to  the  Swiss  system 
of  posting,  which  is  managed  by  government,  private  posting 
being  prohibited.  The  charge  for  each  horse  is  2^/2  ^-  per 
league  (3  M.);  that  for  the  carriage  varies  (1 — 11/2  ^0  according 
to  the  number  of  seats;  and  an  additional  fee  of  2—4  fr.  must 
be  paid  according  to  the  size  of  the  carriage.  These  charges 
include  the  driver's  fee.  A  conveyance  of  this  kind  may  be 
ordered  at  the  principal  post-offices  on  the  mountain  -  routes, 
on  one  hour's  notice.     The  fare  must  be  paid  in  advance. 


X.  RAILWAYS.  XXIX 

Boadi  in  SwiteerUnd  are  meaanred  by  KUomHreSj  or  by  eighths 
ofltagius  (a  'Stunde',  or  Swiss  league,  being  about  3  Engl.  M.). 
1  kUom^tre  =  1093.6331  Engl.  yds. ,  or  about  ^/g  Engl.  M. 
Distances  are  given  in  tbe  Handbook  in  English  miles,  except  in 
mountain  expeditions,  where  hours  are  the  usual  and  more 
convenient  standard  of  distance. 

Letters  (prepaid)  to  any  part  of  Switzerland  (10  grammes 
in  weight,  about  ^3  ^^^O  ^^  ^-^  i^  within  a  radius  of  6  M.  5  c. 
only;  Germany  and  Austria  (i5  grammes,  about  1/2  ^^^O  ^^  <*'• ; 
France,  Belgium  and  Italy  (10  gr.)  30  c. ;  Netherlands  and 
Great  Britain  (15  gr.)  30  c. ;  Russia  (15  gr.)  50  c. ;  N.  America 
(15  gr.)  80  c. 

Post  Offtoe  Ordcrt,  issued  within  the  limits  of  Switzerland 
only,  must  not  exceed  500  fr.  for  the  larger,  200  fr.  for  the 
smaller  towns.  Charge  for  an  order  not  exceeding  100  fr.  20  c, 
for  each  additional  100  fr.  10  c.  more.  With  regard  to  money- 
orders  to  foreign  countries,  a  convenience  of  which  the  traveller 
will  probably  seldom  avail  himself,  information  may  be  obtained 
at  all  the  principal  offices. 

Telegraphie  Ck>mmiuiioation  in  Switzerland  is  well  organised 
and  inexpensive,  and  the  aggregate  length  of  the  wires  is  at 
present  greater  than  in  any  other  country  in  proportion  to  the 
population.  The  tariff  for  20  words  is  1/2  ^r.,  for  every  additio- 
nal 10  words  25  c,  within  the  limits  of  Switzerland. 

The  telegraphic  regulations  provide  that  dispatches  may  be 
delivered  at  any  post-offlce,  from  which,  if  not  itself  a  telegraph 
office,  they  shall  be  transmitted  without  delay  to  the  nearest. 
In  such  cases  the  fee  for  the  telegram  is  paid  by  affixing  a 
stamp  of  the  requisite  value  (^2  ^^-  or  upwards,  according  to  the 
number  of  words).  The  rates  for  foreign  dispatches  may  be 
ascertained  at  the  offices. 

X.    BAilways. 

The  Carriages  in  Oerman  Switzerland  (like  those  of  Wurtem- 
berg,  Austria,  and  Lombardy)  are  constructed  on  the  American 
principle,  generally  accommodating  72  passengers,  and  furnished 
at  each  end  with  iron  steps  of  easy  access,  protected  by  a  roof. 
Through  each  carriage,  and  indeed  through  the  whole  train,  runs 
a  passage,  on  each  side  of  which  the  seats  are  disposed.  This 
arrangement  enables  the  traveller  to  change  his  position  at  plea- 
sure, unless  the  carriage  be  unusually  crowded,  and  facilitates  a 
survey  of  the  scenery. 

The  carriages  in  French  Switzerland  are  generally  of  the 
ordinary  construction,  and  inferior  in  comfort  to  those  of  the 
other  lines.  In  this  part  of  the  country  passengers'  tickets  are 
inspected  as  they  leave  the  waiting-room  before  starting,  and 
given  up  at  the  ^Sortie'  on  their  arrival. 


XXX  XI.    HISTORY. 

Luggage.  All  heavy  luggage  must  be  booked  and  paid  for 
after  the  traveller  has  obtained  his  own  ticket,  but  small  port- 
manteaus and  travelling-bags  may  generally  be  taken  into  the 
carriage  without  challenge.  Travellers  with  direct  tickets  from 
the  German  to  the  Swiss  railways,  or  vice  versa,  should  assure 
themselves  of  the  safety  of  their  luggage  at  the  frontier  (Bale, 
Friedrichshafen,  Lindau,  Rorschach,  Romanshorn). 

Betom-tiekets  are  issued  on  most  of  the  Swiss  lines  at  re- 
duced rates,  some  of  them  available  for  several  days  (Sunday- 
tickets).  Exeursion-tickets  at  very  moderate  rates  are  also  issued 
by  some  of  the  companies  for  certain  routes  or  circuits,  in- 
formation concerning  which  will  be  found  in  the  time-tables. 
These,  however,  cannot  be  recommended  to  the  ordinary  traveller, 
as  they  tend  to  hamper  his  movements  and  to  deprive  him  of 
the  independence  essential  to  enjoyment. 


XI.   History. 

The  limits  of  this  work  necessarily  preclude  more  than  a  brief  histo- 
rical sketch  of  the  interesting  country  and  people  the  traveller  is  now  visit- 
ing: a  country  of  which  the  beautiful  and  romantic  scenery  can  hardly 
be  surpassed  in  any  quarter  of  the  globe,  and  a  people  celebrated  above  all 
others  for  the  spirit  of  freedom  and  independence  by  which  they  have 
ever  been  actuated.  It  is  necessary  for  a  moment  to  carry  the  reader 
back  to  the  period  of  the  subjugation  gf  Helvetia  (the  ancient  Switzerland) 
by  the  Roman  legions.  Under  the  Roman  sway  Helvetia  enjoyed  a  flourish- 
ing trade,  which  covered  the  land  with  cities  and  villages.  A  trace  of 
that  period  still  exists  in  the  Romanic  iMiguage,  which  is  still  spoken  in 
some  parts  of  Switzerland. 

Switzerland  is  believed  to  have  been  first  peopled  by  the  Rhaeti,  who 
were  driven  from  the  plains  to  the  mountains  by  the  Helvetii,  a  race  of 
Celtic  origin.  The  latter  were  conquered  by  the  Romans,  B.  G.  58,  and  the 
Rheeti,  B.  C.  15.  The  Romans  constructed  good  military  roads  over  the 
Great  St.  Bernard  (p.  236)  to  Bale,  and  over  the  Julier  (p.  323),  Septimer 
(p.  322),  and  Spliigen  (p.  361)  to  Bregenz  (p.  354),  and  thence  to  Bale.  The 
chief  settlements  were  AventiGum  (Avenches,  p.  164)  in  the  Canton  de  Vaud, 
Vindonitia  (Windisch,  p.  17)  at  the  confluence  of  the  Aare,  ReuBS,  and 
Limmat,  Augusta  Rauracorum  (Aiigst,  p.  18)  near  Bale,  and  Curia  Rhae- 
torum  (Chur,  p.  287)  in  the  Grisons,  Eastern  Switzerland  as  far  as  Pfyn 
(ad  fines)  in  Thurgau  and  Pfpn  (p.  254)  in  the  Upper  Valais  belonged  to 
the  province  of  Rheetia,  while  Western  Switzerland  formed  part  of  Gaul. 
The  name  Helvetii  had  become  extinct  even  before  the  time  of  Con- 
stantine. 

About  the  year  A.  D.  400  a  great  irruption  of  barbarians  swept  through 
the  peaceful  valleys  of  the  Alps,  and  Huns,  Burgundians,  Alemanni,  and 
Ostrogoths  in  succession  settled  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  The 
Alemanni  took  possession  of  the  whole  of  17.  Switzerland,  where  German 
is  now  spoken,  the  Burgundians  of  the  W.  part,  where  French  is  spoken, 
and  the  Ostrogoths  of  S.  Switzerland,  where  Italian  and  Romansch  are 
now  spoken.  These  different  races  were  gradually  subdued  by  the  Franks^ 
who,  however,  did  not  take  possession  of  the  country  themselves,  but 
governed  it  by  their  officers.  During  this  period  Christianity  was  intro- 
duced, the  monasteries  of  Dissentis  (p.  306),  St.  Oallen  (p.  37),  Einsiedeln 
(p.  297) ,  and  BeromUnster  were  founded ,  and  dukes  and  counts  were 
appointed  as  vicegerents  of  the  Franconian  kings. 


XI.    HISTORY.  XXXI 

After  the  disBolution  of  the  great  Francooian  empire,  the  eastern  half 
of  Switzerland,  the  boundary  of  which  extended  froia  Eglisau  over  the 
AlbiB  to  Lucerne  and  the  Grimsel,  was  united  with  the  duchy  of  Aleman- 
nia,  or  8tDcU>ia,  and  the  western  part  with  the  kingdom  of  Burgundy  (912). 
After  the  downfall  of  the  latter  (1032)  the  uerman  Emperors  took  posses- 
sion of  the  country,  and  governed  it  by  their  vicegerents  the  dukes  of 
Zaringia  (p.  96),  who  were  perpetually  at  enmity  with  the  Burgundian 
nobles  and  therefore  favoured  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns,  and  were 
themselves  the  founders  of  several  new  towns,  such  as  Freiburg,  Bern, 
and  Burgdorf. 

As  the  power  of  the  emperors  declined,  and  the  nobles,  spiritual  and 
temporal,  became  more  ambitious  of  independence,  and  more  eager  to  fill 
their  coffers  at  the  expense  of  their  neighbours,  the  Swiss  towns  and  the 
few  country-people  who  had  succeeded  in  preserving  their  freedom  from 
serfdom  were  compelled  to  consult  their  safety  by  entering  into  treaties 
with  the  feudal  lords  of  the  soil.  Thus  the  inhabitants  of  Zurich  placed 
themselves  under  the  protection  of  the  then  unimportant  Counts  of  Haps- 
hurg^  with  whom  the  'Three  Cantons'  of  Uri,  Schwyz,  and  Unterwalden 
were  also  allied.  In  1231  and  1240  letters  of  independence  were  granted 
by  Emperor  Frederick  II.  to  Uri  and  Schwyz,  and  after  Count  Rudolph  of 
Bapsburg  had  become  emperor  he  confirmed  the  privileges  of  the  former 
in  1274,  while  Schwyz  and  Unterwalden  still  continued  subject  to  the 
Hapsburg  supremacy. 

After  the  emperor's  death  in  1291  the  Forest  Cantons  formed  their 
first  league  for  mutual  safety  and  the  protection  of  their  liberty  against 
the  growing  power  of  the  House  of  Hapsburg.  Rudolph's  son  AU>ert  in 
particular  endeavoured  to  rear  the  limited  rights  he  enjoyed  in  these  dis- 
tricts into  absolute  sovereignty,  and  to  incorporate  them  with  his  empire. 

The  ancient  cantons  therefore  embraced  the  cause  of  the  rival  monarch 
Adolph  of  Nassau^  who  cpnflrmed  their  privileges.  Victory,  however, 
favoured  Albert,  who  again  deprived  the  cantons  of  their  privileges,  but 
does  not  appear  to  have  treated  them  with  much  severity.  To  this  period 
belongs  the  romantic  but  unfounded  tradition  of  William  Tell,  t 

After  the  assassination  of  Albert  by  John  of  Swabia  in  1906,  Emperor 
Henry  VII.^  who  was  also  an  opponent  of  the  Hapsburgers,  conferred  a 
charter  of  independence  on  the  Forest  Cantons.  The  House  of  Hapsburg 
regarded  this  as  an  infringement  of  their  rights,  and  sent  a  powerful 
army  against  these  cantons,  which  after  the  death  of  Henry  had  declared 
their  adherence  to  Lewis  the  Bavarian,  the  opponent  of  Frederick  the 
Handsome.  This  army  was  destroyed  at  the  Morgarten  (p.  30)  in  1315. 
Subsequent  attempts  to  subject  the  country  to  the  supremacy  of  the 
House  of  Hapsburg  were  frustrated  by  the  victories  of  the  Swiss  at  Sem- 
pach  (p.  15)  in  1386,  at  I^Hfels  (p.  291)  in  1388,  and  at  the  Stoss  (p.  278) 
in  14()5. 

In  the  Burgundian  parts  of  the  country  too  the  nobility  were  jealous 
of  the  increasing  importance  of  the  towns,  and  accordingly  endeavoured 
to  conquer  Bern,  but  were  defeated  by  the  citizens  at  Laupen  (p.  159) 
in  1339. 

In  1354  a  confederacy  was  formed  by  eight  independent  districts  and 
towns,  which  soon  became  powerful  enough  to  assume  the  offensive,  and 


t  The  legend  of  the  National  hero  of  Switzerland,  as  well  as  the  story 
of  the  expulsion  of  the  Austrian  bailiffs  in  1306.  is  destitute  of  historical 
foundation.  No  trace  of  such  a  person  is  to  be  found  in  the  work  of 
John  of  Winterthur  (Yitodurus,  1349)  or  that  of  Conrad  Justinger  of  Bern 
(1420)^  the  earliest  Swiss  historians.  Mention  is  made  of  him  for  the  first 
time  m  the  Sarner  Chronik  of  1470,  and  the  myth  was  susequently  em- 
bellished by  iEgidius  Tschudi  of  Glarus  (d.  1542),  and  still  more  by  Jo- 
hann  v.  Miiller  (d.  1809),  while  Schiller's  famous  play  has  finally  secured 
to  the  hero  a  world-wide  celebrity.  Similar  traditions  are  met  with  among 
various  northern  nations,  such  as  the  Danes  and  Icelanders. 


XXXn  XI.    HISTORY. 

at  length  actually  wrested  the  hereditary  domain  of  Hapsbnrg   from  the 
dukes  of  Austria,  who  tried  in  vain  to  recover  it. 

Even  Charles  the  Bold,  Duke  of  Burgundy,  the  mightiest  prince  of  his 
time,  was  defeated  by  the  Swiss  at  the  three  battles  of  Grandson  (1476, 
p.  173),  Aforat  (1476,  p.  164),  and  Nancy,  while  at  an  earlier  period  a  large 
body  of  irregular  French  and  other  troops,  which  had  been  made  over  to 
Austria  by  the  King  of  France,  sustained  a  severe  check  from  the  con- 
federates at  St.  Jacob  on  the  Birs  (1444,  p.  5). 

In  the  Swabian  war  (1499)  the  bravery  and  unity  of  the  Swiss  achieved 
another  triumph  in  the  victory  of  Dornach  (p.  6).  At  that  period  their 
independence  of  the  emperor  was  formally  recognised,  but  they  continued 
nominally  attached  to  the  empire  down  to  16^. 

The  last-named  victory  formed  a  Atting  termination  to  a  successful 
career  of  two  centuries,  the  most  gloritMis  in  the  history  of  Switzerland. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century  a  period  of  decline  set  in.  The 
enormous  booty  captured  in  the  Burgundian  war  had  begotten  a  taste  for 
wealth  and  luxury,  the  demoralising  practice  of  serving  as  mercenary 
troops  in  foreign  lands  began  to  prevail,  and  a  foundation  was  laid  for 
the  reproachful  proverb,  'Pas  d''argent,  pas  de  Suisses!' 

The  cause  of  the  Reformation  under  the  auspices  of  Zwingli  was 
zealously  embraced  by  a  large  proportion  of  the  population  of  Switzerland 
about  the  beginning  of  the  loth  century;  but  the  bitter  jealousies  thus 
sown  between  the  Roman  Catholic  and  the  Reformed  Cantons  were 
attended  with  most  disastrous  consequences,  and  in  the  civil  wars  which 
ensued  bloody  battles  were  fought  at  Kappel  (p.  35)  in  1581,  at  Villtnergen 
in  1666,  and  during  the  Toggenburg  war  (p.  290)  in  1712. 

Traces  of  unflinching  bravery  and  of  a  noble  spirit  of  self-sacrifice  in 
the  cause  of  conscience  are  observable  in  individual  instances  even  at  the 
close  of  the  18th  century,  as  exampled  by  the  affairs  of  Rothenthurm 
(p.  300)  and  Stans  (p.  86),  but  the  national  vigour  was  gone.  The  resist- 
ance of  individuals  to  the  invasion  of  the  French  republicans  proved  fruit- 
less, and  the  Helvetian  Republic  was  founded  on  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
liberties  of  the  nation.  In  1803  Napoleon  restored  the  cantonal  system, 
and  in  accordance  with  resolutions  passed  by  the  Congress  of  Vienna  in 
1815  the  constitution  was  remodelled.  The  changes  introduced  in  conse- 
quence of  the  revolution  of  July,  1830,  were  unhappily  the  forerunners  of 
the  civil  war  of  the  Sonderbund,  or  Separate  League,  in  November,  1847; 
but  this  was  of  short  duration,  and  on  12th  September,  1848,  a  new 
federal  constitution  was  inaugurated.  Since  that  period  the  public  tran- 
quillity has  been  undisturbed,  and  the  prosperity  and  harmony  which  now 
prevail  throughout  the  country  are  not  unworthy  of  the  glorious  traditions 
of  the  past. 

Xn.    Constitation  and  Statistics. 

The  Federal  Constitution  of  12th  Sept.,  1848,  contains  among  others 
the  following  articles :  3.  The  cantons  are  sovereign,  in  so  far  as  their 
sovereignty  is  not  limited  by  the  Federal  Constitution.  13.  The  Confede- 
racy is  not  entitled  to  maintain  a  standing  army.  Without  the  consent  of 
the  Confederacy  no  canton  is  permitted  to  maintain  more  than  300  regular 
troops.  23.  Custom's  dues  are  levied  by  the  Confederacy  alone.  33.  The 
postal  system  is  conducted  by  the  Confederacy.  39.  The  expenditure  of 
the  Confederacy  is  defrayed :  (a)  by  the  interest  of  the  Federal  war-fund ; 
(b)  by  the  duties  levied  at  the  frontiers;  (c)  by  the  revenue  derived  from 
the  postal  system ;  (d)  by  the  proceeds  of  the  gunpowder  commission ; 
(e)  by  the  of  taxes  levied  by  resolution  of  the  Federal  Assembly.  41.  Every 
native  of  Switzerland  is  at  liberty  to  settle  where  he  pleases.  43.  For- 
eigners cannot  be  naturalised  without  resigning  their  original  nationality. 
44.  All  religious  sects  are  tolerated.  45.  The  freedom  of  the  press  is 
established.  57.  Foreigners  whose  presence  is  considered  prejudicial  to 
the  interests  of  the  Confederacy  may  be  ejected.  58.  The  order  of  the 
Jesuits  is  excluded   from  every  part  of  Switzerland. 


Xn.    CONSTITUTION  AND  STATISTICS.       XXXIH 


The  following  articles  concern  the  ^Federal  Anthorities" :  00.  The 
supreme  power  is  vested  in  the  Federal  AssenMy,  consisting  of  the 
National  Council  and  the  Council  of  the  States.  61.  The  National 
Council  is  composed  of  deputies ,  one  for  every  20,000  of  the  entire  pop- 
ulation, or  one  at  least  from  each  canton.  63.  Bverv  Swiss  who  has 
attained  the  age  of  20  years  is  entitled  to  a  vote.  64.  Any  Swiss  layman 
entitled  to  vote  may  be  elected.  66.  The  National  Council  is  elected  for 
5  years.  69.  The  Council  of  the  States  consists  of  44  deputies  from  the 
cantons,  2  from  each  canton.  83.  The  Federal  Council^  the  highest  execu- 
tive and  administrative  authority,  consists  of  7  members.  84.  The  members 
are  elected  by  the  Federal  Assembly  for  3  years.  91.  The  several  members 
of  the  Federal  Council  superintend  the  administration  of  the  different  de- 
partments (military,  interior,  finance,  commerce,  etc.).  94.  The  Federal 
Tribunal  (consisting  of  11  members)  decides  all  legal  questions  affecting 
the  Confederacy.  104.  The  court  of  assizes,  with  a  jury ,  decides  cases  of 
breach  of  discipline  on  the  part  of  officials,  high  treason  and  insubordina- 
tion, political  offences,  etc. 

Area  and  PopolatiMi 

according  to  the  decennial  census  of  1st  Dec,  1870. 


Cantons. 


Sq. 
Leagues 


Confession 


Rom.Cath. 


""■717 

294 
54 
47 
40 
33,» 
29,s 
10,, 

71,1 
34,» 

1,5 

18,» 

10,T 

87,T 

304,1 

60,4 

42,. 

121,6 

138,r 

226,ft 

34,, 

12,8 

1769,. 


Prot. 


Jews. 


Sect. 


ToUlB. 


006,4fi6 
132,338 
16,107 
47,706 
26,116 
35,151 
20,993 
110,832 
74,713 
47,760 
54,127 
37,721 

48,726 
11,909 

191,015 
91,782 

196,873 
93,300 

119,620 

231,700 
96.887 
97,284 
93495 


Pop. 
p.  sq. 
league 


T7757 
1,723 
1,450 
343 
1,192 
778 
1,179 
2,058 
1,551 
2,166 

27,500 
2,926 
2,924 

4,554 
1,631 
2,178 

302 
3,292 
2,180 

963 
1,670 

436 
2,804 
7,639 


1.  Zurich    . 

2.  Bern  .     . 

3.  Lucerne  . 

4.  Uri    .     . 

5.  Schutyz  . 

6.  Unterwald 

7.  Olarus    . 

8.  Zug   .     . 

9.  Fnboutff 

10.  Soleure  . 

11.  B&le-ville 
Bdle-eamp. 

12.  Schaffhausen 

13.  Appenzell 
(Rhodes  ext.) 
(Rhodes  int.) 

14.  St.  OaUen 

15.  Orisons  . 

16.  Aargau  . 

17.  Tkurgau 

18.  Ticino    . 

19.  Vaud     .    . 

20.  Valais    . 

21.  Neuehdtel 
32.  Oeneva   .     . 


17,942 
66,022 
128,338 
16,018 
47,047 
25,687 

6,888 
878 
93,951 
62,072 
12,301 
10,245 

3,051 

2,358 
11,720 

116,130 
39,889 
89,180 
23,444 

119,350 
17,785 
95,963 
11,345 
47,857 


Total    .    .    . 
Census  of  1860 

Increase    .     .  {) 


1,023,430 


263,rdO 

436,291 

3,823 

80 

647 

424 

28,239 

20,062 

16,819 

12,448 

34,455 

43,523 

34,466 

46,175 

188 

74,508 

51,841 

107,708 

69,241 

194 

211,493 

900 

84,334 

43,606 


504 

1403 

98 

8 

7 

5 

17 

16 

47 

92 

516 

131 

24 

22 

192 

17 

1541 

84 

36 

610 

4 

674 

961 


^2^ 

2,739 

79 

1 

4 

7 
17 
15 
101 
488 
228 
180 

171 

1 

190 

35 
449 
531 

40 
1,812 

20 
931 
771 


^1,236 


1,566,001 
1,476,982 


TOOr 
4216 


89,0191  2793 


5,866 


6;654 


2,507,170 


MOB 
1,432 


Switzerland  therefore  contains  a  population  of  165  per  'Eng.  sq.  M. 
(Alpine  Switzerland  52,  the  remainder  about  244).  Oeneva  is  the  most 
populous  canton  (847  per  sq.  M.),  the  Grisons  the  least  (33  per  sq.  M.). 
Of  every  1000  souls  585  are  Prot. ,  411  Rom.  Cath. ,  2  Sectarian ,  2  Jews ; 
702  of  these  speak  Cerman,  226  French.  55  Italian,  and  17  Romansch.  Of 
the  556,000  house-holds  of  Switzerland  465,000  possess  landed  property ;  of 
the  entire  population  of  2,669,095  about  500,000  only  have  no  landed  pos- 
session.   In  Switzerland  1  person  out  of  20  lives  by  alms,  in  England  1  out 

Bjedkkbr,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  C 


XXXI V       xn.    CONSTITUTION  AND  STATISTICS. 

of  8,  in  France  and  Holland  1  out  of  9.  Of  100  sq.  leagues  of  land  20  are 
pasture,  17  forest,  11  arable,  20  meadow,  1  vineyards,  and  31  uncultivated 
or  occupied  by  water,  roads,  dwellings,  etc. 

Education.  Tbe  Grerman  part  of  Switzerland  possesses  three  Univer- 
sitiesy  those  of  JSd/«,  Bertiy  and  Zurich ^  with  115  professors,  30  private  tutors, 
and  500  students.  French  Switzerland  possesses  three  Academies^  those  of 
Geneva  ,  Lausanne,  and  Neuchatel,  with  faculties  of  theology  ,  philosophy, 
and  jurisprudence,  45  professors,  and  370  students.  About  70  of  the  latter 
at  Geneva  are  foreigners ,  chiefly  French  Protestants.  The  Federal  Poly- 
technic at  Zurich ,  founded  in  18o5 ,  also  deserves  mention  *,  it  possesses  a 
philosophical  faculty  and  46  teachers,  some  of  them  professors  at  the  uni- 
versity, and  is  much  frequented  by  foreign  as  well  as  native  students. 

The  Army  consists  of  the  Bundes-Auszug  (Elite  Fdd^rale)  and  the  Re- 
serve^  consisting  of  the  able-bodied  male  population  between  the  ages  of 
20  and  34 ;  and  the  Landwehr^  composed  of  men,  not  included  in  the  above 
classes,  up  to  their  44th  year.  To  the  two  first  classes  belong  105,463  in- 
fantry soldiers,  9227  riflemen,  3006  cavalry,  10,656  artillery,  12  park-com- 
Janics  with  28(0  men ,  2332  sappers  and  miners ,  etc. ,  forming  a  total  of 
33,949.  The  number  of  the  Landwehr  is  computed  at  67,000.  —  The 
*■  CadeW  Institute ""  provides  an  admirable  preparatory  training  for  military 
service  in  Switzerland.  This  is  an  arrangement  by  which  the  pupils 
(^cadets')  of  all  the  principal  schools  receive  instruction  in  military  tactics, 
being  provided  by  government  with  muskets  and  cannons  (2  and  4-pounders) 
for  the  purpose.  On  these  occasions  they  wear  a  uniform;  and  their 
annual  reviews ,  when  the  cadets  of  several  cantons  frequently  assemble, 
arc  a  source  of  boundless  delight  to  the  embryo  warriors. 

XTTT.    Geology  of  the  Alps,  f 

The  term  *Alps'  is  applied  to  the  vast  mountain  ranges  which  extend 
from  Nice  on  the  Mediterranean  Sea  towards  the  N.E.  through  southern 
France,  Switzerland,  the  Tyrol,  and  Styria,  to  the  Leitha  on  the  Hunga- 
rian frontier.  Of  these  the  highest  are  the  Central  Alps^  situated  in  Savoy 
and  Switzerland.  They  are  subdivided  into  the  Pennine  Alps  (p.  238)  ex- 
tending from  the  Col  de  Bonhomme  (p.  230)  to  Bfonte  Rosa  (p.  262),  and 
including  Mont  Blanc  (p.  221) ;  the  Lepontine^  or  Stoiss  AlpSy  extending  from 
St.  Gotthard  (p.  82)  to  the  Vogelberg  (p.  366) ;  and  the  Rhaetian  AlpSy  ex- 
tending from  the  sources  of  the  Hinter-Bhein  (p.  366)  over  the  Bemina 
(p.  330)  to  the  Ortler  in  the  Tyrol  (p.  347).  The  central  point  of  those 
ranges  is  the  Furca  and  St.  Gotthard  group,  from  which  the  Alps  of  the 
Valais  and  Orisons  branch  in  a  southerly,  and  the  Bernese  and  Rhenish  Alps 
in  a  northerly  direction. 

According  to  their  elevation,  the  Alps  are  usually  divided  into  the 
Higher  Alpsy  or  those  above  the  snow-line  (8000^  on  the  N. ,  and  SSOO'  on 
the  S.  side) ;  the  Middle  Alps ,  or  those  between  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow  and  the  zone  of  the  growth  of  trees  (4500*) :  and  the  Lower  Alps^  or 
those  between  4500'  and  2000'  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Switzerland  consists  of  three  distinct  districts,  which  differ  essentially 
in  their  geological  formation.  A  line  drawn  from  8chaffhausen  through 
Aarau  and  Neuchdtel  to  the  base  of  Mont  Ddle^  N.  of  Geneva,  separates 
two  of  these  districts  from  each  other,  viz.  the  Juba  Bange  from  the  Swiss 
HiLC  GouNTBT.  The  latter  extends  to  the  base  of  the  Alps,  which  con- 
stitute the  third  and  most  important  of  these  districtSx 

The  formation  of  the  Jura  Bange  consists  mainly  of  strata  remarkable 
for  their  richness  in  organic  remains ,  and  known  as  the'  'Jura  formation* 
in  other  parts  of  central  Europe  also.  The  subdivisions  of  this  for- 
mation, its  stratification ,  and  the  remains,  principally  of  shell-fish,  which 
characterise  the  different  strata,   are  well   known.     The  position  of  the 


t  The  most  recent  geological  researches  in  Switzerland  and  special 
maps  of  the  Alps  and  Jura  are  to  be  found  in  the  *^Beitrdge  zur  Qeologie 
der  Schteeiz''  (published  by  Dalp  of  Bern  at  the  expense  of  government). 


Xin.  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  ALPS.       XXXV 

strata  resembles  the  surface  of  a  troubled  sea,  or  numerous  layers  of  cloth, 
placed  one  upon  another  and  subjected  to  lateral  pressure.  On  the  bor^ 
ders  of  the  Bi(u:k  Forest^  and  in  the  greater  .of  these  layers,  which 
extend  southwards  beyond  Bale,  the  lower  strata  of  the  Tri<u»ic  Syitem^ 
the  Keuper  Marla^  Muschelkalk,  and  Buntsandttein ,  are  the  most  pro- 
minent, and  all  organic  remains  which  they  contain  differ  from  those  of 
the  Jura  group.  From  the  lake  of  Bienne,  in  a  south-westerly  direction, 
more  recent  strata  occur,  belonging  to  the  cretaceous  system,  and  known 
as  Neocomian  D^otiU. 

At  the  base  of  the  Jura  these  strata  are  covered  by  a  far  more  recent 
formation,  which  comprise  the  entire  district  of  the  Bwim  BUll  Oountryt 
bounded  in  its  turn  by  the  lower  Alps,  of  which  the  Bigi  is  the  most 
celebrated  from  the  magnificence  of  its  view.  This  formation  belongs  to 
the  section  of  the  Tertiary  System  known  as  Meiocene^  the  vast  beds 
of  conglomerate  contained  in  which  are  called  Nagtlflue  (p.  57).  It  is, 
geologically  speaking,  a  very  recent  formation,  and  proves  what  vast  trans- 
formations the  earth's  surface  has  undergone  at  a  comparatively  recent 
date.  The  larger  towns  of  Switzerland  are  situated  in  this  district,  vis.  81, 
Galltn ,  Zurich ,  Lucerne ,  Soleure ,  £em ,  Freiburg ,  Lautanne ,  and  (7«M«va, 
as  well  as  the  two  large  basins  of  the  lakes  of  Geneva  and  Constance. 

The  strata  of  the  Meiocene  contain  in  two  sections  remains  of  fresh- 
water animals  and  plants  (found  in  abundance  at  the  quarries  of  Oehninget^)^ 
and  in  an  intermediate  section  remains  of  marine  animals.  The  Nagel' 
flue  consists  chiefly  of  boulders  and  rounded  stones  belonging  to  .or- 
mations  entirely  foreign  to  the  Alps  of  the  present  day.  In  order  to 
account  for  this,  it  is  conjectured  that  at  the  period  of  the  formation  of 
this  rock  a  chain  of  lower  hills,  consisting  of  various  kinds  of  granite, 
porphyry ,  quarzite ,  etc. ,  formed  the  spurs  of  the  higher  Alps.  The 
Nagelflue  mountains  are  formed  by  the  deposits  of  those  ancient  streams 
which  doubtless  descended  from  the  region  of  the  Alps;  and  their  occur- 
rence in  different  districts  indicates  the  various  directions  in  which  these 
rivers  must  have  flowed. 

The  position  of  the  strata  deviates  little  from  their  original,  nearly 
horizontal  direction,  and  takes  the  form  of  a  basin  between  the  Alps  and 
the  Jura  range ,  the  shores  of  the  primaeval  Meiocene  sea.  At  a  distance, 
however,  of  al^out  7  M.  from  the  base  of  the  Alps ,  the  inclination  of  the 
strata  changes,  and  from  this  point  onwards,  turned  towards  the  S.E.  in  the 
direction  of  the  Alps,  becomes  more  and  more  abrupt.  From  Rorschach  as  far 
as  the  Lake  of  Thun  two  undulating  folds  of  the  strata ,  protruding  over 
each  other  chiefly  from  S.  to  K.,  are  traceable  in  this  sub-alpine  Meiocene 
formation.  This  position  can  only  have  been  occasioned  by  some  vast 
convulsions  in  the  solid  crust  of  the  earth  after  the  first  deposit  and  con- 
solidation of  the  strata,  and  may  be  regarded  as  a  prelude  to  the  compli- 
cated rock-formation  of  the  Alps  themselves.  Almost  the  entire  hilly 
country,  and  even  the  lower  slopes  of  the  Jura  are  covered  with  in- 
numerable Erratic  Blocks  and  glacier  detritus.  The  nature  of  the  rock 
and  the  origin  of  the  blocks,  as  well  as  their  disposition  in  moraines, 
render  it  probable  that  during  the  ice-period  the  glaciers  of  the  Rhone, 
Aar,  Reuss ,  Limmat ,  and  Rhine  covered  the  whole  district.  To  these 
formations,  moreover,  the  soil  is  indebted  for  its  remarkable  fertility. 

The  "S.  boundary   of   the  Swiss  Alps  extends  from  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Rhine,  a  little  below  the  influx  of  the  III  (p.  353) ,   in  a  zigzag  line  S.W.,' 
to  Vevap  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva.    The  S.  extremity   of  this  mighty  range 
is  near  the  Lake  of  Lugano^  while  the  £.  part  extends  into  Piedmont  and 
the  Austrian  states. 

On  the  Northern  Side  of  the  Alps  a  belt ,  varying  in  diameter ,  com- 
posed of  fossiliferous  formations ,  is  distinguishable  from  the  principal 
rocks.  These  formations  were  formerly  known  by  the  general  term  of 
Alpenkalkslein  (Alpine  Limestone),  but  have  more  recently  been  ascertained 
to  consist  of  three  distinct  groups,  belonging  to  the  Eocene^  the  Chalk  For- 
mation^ and  the  Jura  Formation.  Towards  the  E.  frontier  of  Switzerland, 
in  the  cantons  of  St,  Qall  and  Olarusy  part  of  this  belt,  of  a  still  more 
remote  date,  are  considered  to  belong  to  the  Triasflic  System. 


XXXVI  Xra.    GEOLOGY  OF  THE  ALPS. 

The  rocks  of  these  formations  on  the  outskirts  of  the  Alps  bear  so  little 
resemblance  to  others  of  the  same  formations  on  the  V.  and  W.  side  of  this 
great  range  in  Germany  and  France ,  that  is  has  been  a  matter  of  the  ut- 
most difficulty  to  arrive  at  a  satisfactory  conclusion  on  the  subject.  The 
limestones,  which  occur  in  the  former  in  enormous  masses,  are  of  a  dark- 
grey,  or  nearly  black  colour,  of  close  texture ,  slightly  crystalline,  veined 
with  a  network  of  calcareous  spar,  and  closely  resembling  the  limestones 
which  usually  occur  in  older  formations.  The  difficulties  of  classification 
which  thus  arose  were  not  solved  until  attention  was  drawn  to  the  organic 
remains  found  in  this  northern  belt  of  the  Alps.  These  form  the  sole 
clue  to  the  intricacies  of  the  Alpine  formations ,  and  afford  a  surer  and 
more  trustworthy  criterion,  in  proportion  as  the  organic  remains  in*  the 
adjacent  districts  are  more  minutely  examined. 

Thus  the  same  organic  remains  have  been  found  here  as  those  which 
occur  in  the  Eocene  Strata  near  Paris,  and  it  has  been  satisfactorily  proved 
that  these  recent  formations  show  the  same  irregularities  which  have 
taken  place  in  the  Alpine  chain.  A  similar  relation  has  been  observed 
between  the  chalk  formations  and  the  Jttra  Oroup  on  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  Alps.  A  variation  in  the  character  of  the  organic  remains  tends  to 
prove  that  the  Jura  strata  must  have  been  deposited  in  the  depths  of  the 
ocean,  while  those  to  the  N.  of  the  Swiss  hill-country  were  probably  formed 
on  the  beach  or  shallower  parts  of  the  sea. 

The  relations  between  these  three  formations,  the  Eocene^  the  Chalky 
and  the  Jura  groups ,  which  are  always  found  in  juxtaposition,  are  of 
an  extremely  complicated  nature.  The  strata  are  upheaved  in  the  most 
contorted  forms ,  and  present  the  appearance  of  having  been  folded  to- 
gether, so  that  among  the  higher  and  more  inaccessible  mountains  it  has 
been  a  task  of  the  utmost  difficulty  to  ascertain  their  extent.  Difficult  as 
it  may  be  to  account  for  some  of  these  phenomena,  it  has,  at  least ,  been 
clearly  proved  by  the  indefatigable  researches  of  eminent  Swiss  geologists, 
that  these  strata  must  have  been  upheaved  from  the  depths  of  the  ocean 
in  which  they  were  deposited,  pressed  together,  and  forced  aside  (i.  e.  to 
the  N.)  by  the  principal  formations  of  the  Alpine  chain.  This  accounts 
for  the  fact  that  the  lowest  strata  are  frequently  found  on  the  surface. 

The  Oentral  Al]^e  Zone  consists  of  rocks  of  entirely  different 
character.  The  principal  masses  are  generally  composed  of  gneiss,  which 
towards  the  centre  changes  to  granite  and  protogine.  A^acent  to  the 
gneiss  occurs  the  mica-schist  and  talcose  schist,  and  in  the  gneiss  itself 
may  be  distinguished  the  mica-gneiss  and  the  talcose.  Although  these  are 
precisely  the  same  rocks  which  everywhere  constitute  the  earth*s  crust, 
geologists  have  not  yet  succeeded  in  reducing  the  phenomena  of  the  struc- 
ture of  the  Alps  to  fixed  laws.  This,  however,  can  hardly  excite  surprise, 
when  the  same  difficulty  has  been  experienced  in  ttie  case  of  far  less 
complicated  formations. 

Studer,  the  eminent  Swiss  geologist,  himself  admits  that  even  the  best- 
known  central  masses  of  gneiss ,  those  of  Hont  Blanc ,  the  Finsteraarhom, 
and  the  St.  Ootthard,  have  been  so  imperfectly  explored  that  their  limits 
cannot  be  laid  down  with  any  certainty. 

Intermingled  with  the  central  masses  of  gneiss ,  Schists  also  occur 
to  a  great  extent,  sometimes  in  the  form  of  Hornblende  and  Hornblende 
Schist  approaching  the  already  mentioned  crystalline  schists  of  the  central 
masses,  sometimes  as  green-schist,  resembling  serpentine,  and  easily  recogni- 
sable as  a  sedimentary  formation.  These  also  contain  Anthracite  and  nu- 
merous impressions  of  plants,  and  may  undoubtedly  be  considered  to  belong 
to  the  Coal  Formation ,  a  fact  of  great  importance  in  the  study  of  Alpine 
geology. 

Older  sedimentary  deposits  are  not  clearlv  traceable  in  the  Swiss  Alps, 
but  are  found  in  the  eastern  continuation  of  the  Alpine  chain.  Some  of 
the  strata  usually  situated  between  the  coal-formation  and  the  Jura-group 
occur  in  the  Swiss  Alps ,  such  as  sandstones ,  conglomerates  ( Verrueano^ 
^Rauchwacke^i  Dolomite^  Oppsum^  etc.)^  but  they  are  so  disconnected,  that, 
although  well  known  in  the  E.  prolongation  of  the  mountains,  and  in  the 
adjacent  S.  zone ,  and  classed  under  the  Triassie  System,  no  satisfactory 
account  of  them  can  be  given. 


Xin.    QBOLOGY  OF  THE  ALPS.  XXXVII 

In  the  heftrt  of  Switeerluid,  and  on  the  extrooae  northern  margin  of  the 
central  sone,  rises  the  Central  Mass  of  the  KMt«marhem  from  the  LdUeken- 
$hal  to  the  TSdi.  In  the  centre  of  this  range,  where  it  is  intersected  by 
the  routes  of  the  Orimsel  and  the  8t.  Gotttiardf  the  Oranite  attains  its 
most  important  development,  and  at  the  same  time  the  Anticlinal 
Axis ,  or  contorted  (^fan-shaped")  structure  of  Uie  gneiss  is  most  strongly 
marked.  Here  too,  (m  the  N.  side,  the  most  striking  irregularity  is  observd 
in  the  contact  of  the  gneiss  and  its  associated  quartz-rock  with  the  ad- 
joining Jura-limestone.  In  the  diagonal  line  from  Lauterbrunnen  and 
Orindelwald  to  Vieuh  the  fan-shape  is  fully  developed ;  on  the  K.  side  the 
strata  decline  towards  the  S.,  in  the  Vitsefurhdmet-  they  are  vertical ,  while 
on«the  route  from  the  Eggitehhom  (p.  141)  to  Vie*eh  they  assume  a  K.  di- 
rection ;  the  same  is  the  case  in  a  section  of  the  Orimsel  (p.  136).  At  the 
extremities  of  the  gneiss,  en  the  other  hand,  a  uniform  and  abrupt  descent 
towards  the  8.  has  been  observed. 

The  contact  of  the  crystalline  and  sedimentary  formations  is  most 
strikingly  seen  on  the  17.  margin  of  this  group,  in  the  profound  valleys 
and  fissures  riven  through  the  entire  mass  by  mighty  convulsions.  The 
Oastemthal  (p.  251)  is  a  locality  adapted  for  a  nearer  examination  of  these 
phenomena.  The  limestone  and  slate-strata  of  the  precipices  of  the  AlteU 
and  Doldenhom  (p.  147)  are  extremely  contorted  in  their  position  \  the  base 
is  granito. 

The  summit  of  the  Jnacfiran  (p.  116)  consists  of  gneiss-granite ,  into 
which  two  masses  of  Jura-limestone  have  inserted  themselves  horisontally, 
their  extremities  being ,  as  it  were ,  folded  back.  This  pseudo-interstrati- 
fication  must  have  taken  place  while  the  disrupting  granite  was  in  a  liquid 
state.  The  Eiger  and  Mdnek  (p.  117),  the  MttUnhtrg  (p.  119),  the  Wetterhom 
(p.  123),  and  particularly  the  upper  part  of  the  Urbaehthal  (p.  133)  and 
the  narrow  ridge  between  the  To—«nhom  and  Otteltihom  display  the  same 
phenomena.  Even  the  extremities  of  these  inserted  masses  of  limestone 
contain  organic  remains  of  the  Jura-formation.  This  affords  a  clue  to  the 
structure  of  the  Alps,  but  if  it  be  considered  as  evidence  that  the  epoch 
of  Uiese  convulsions  is  more  recent  than  the  Jura  chiJk  and  eocene  periods, 
the  soundness  of  the  proposition  may  be  questioned. 

The  St.  Ootthard  almost  adjoins  this  central  mass  of  the  Finsteraarhorn. 
Of  a  layer  of  slate  and  limestone  which  once  intervened  between  them, 
isolated  fragments  or  'nests'  of  marble  are  now  the  only  remnants.  At  the 
level  of  the  St.  OotUiard  Lakesy,  granite  occurs  in  the  heart  of  this  mass, 
at  the  Otnuboden  gneiss,  above  Hoapenthal  mica-slate.  At  Andermall  the 
inclination  is  towards  the  S.,  at  Airolo  towards  the  N. ,  the  fanlike  struc- 
ture being  here  distinctly  exhibited,  and  extending  towards  the  E.  as  far 
as  the  granite  can  be  traced. 

On  the  Lukmaniar  (p.  311)  these  phenomena  are  repeated;  the  S. 
part  of  the  fan  widens  as  it  extends  towards  the  E.  The  surface,  Uie  situa- 
tion of  the  watershed,  and  the  summit  bear  no  relation  to  the  axis  of  the 
fan ;  the  present  configuration  of  the  mountain-chains  and  valleys  cannot 
therefore  have  been  occasioned  by  the  upheaval  of  the  granite. 

The  8t.  Gotthard  possesses  beautiful  minerals  in  abundance.  Those 
in  the  external  central  masses  display  great  uniformity,  the  same  species 
occurring  at  Oitant ,  on  Mont  Blane ,  on  the  Finstertiarhom ,  and  on  the 
8t.  Ootthard :  such  are  the  micaceotu  ir<m-ore ,  titanite ,  sphene ,  Jtuor-tpaTy 
apatite,  axinite,  tourmaline,  and  the  whole  of  the  zeolites. 

On  the  8.  frontier  of  the  ValaiSt  from  the  Oreeit  8t.  Bernard  over  the 
lofty  summits  of  the  Dent  de  Rang,  Bent  Blanche,  and  the  Matterhom,  as 
far  as  the  Weiuhom  and  Simplon,  extends  a  range  of  crystalline  felspar- 
rock,  which  may  be  regarded  not  merely  as  a  central  mass  entitled  to  rank 
with  others,  but  rather  as  the  true  Oentral  Ohain  of  the  Swiss  and  Italian 
High  Alps.  Mont  Blanc  and  Monte  Rosa,  the  highest  of  the  Alps,  though 
not  within  this  mass,  are  immediately  adjacent. 

It  fbrms  a  transition  from  the  fan-shaped  mountains ,  situated  nearer 
the  extenud  (K.)  zone  of  the  Alps,  to  the  more  horizontally  disposed  gneiss 
which  forms  the  inner  crust  of  the  Alps.  The  fan  shape  is  indistinct  i 
the  symmetrical  arrangement  of  the  different  rocks  is  wanting  -,  interstra- 
tifieations  of  marble  and  limestone  are  more  frequent  i  and  serpentine  and 


xxxvm        xm.  geology  of  the  alps. 

gabbro,  and  in  the  S.  part  flyenite  occur.  This  Central  Mass  is  moreover  chiefly 
remarkable  for  its  intimate  connection  with  the  associated  slates,  the  strata 
being  in  some  places  strangely  intermingled,  while  in  others  they  gradually 
blend.  Gneiss  and  grey  slate  often  occur  as  an  inseparable  mass,  and  give 
rise  to  one  of  the  difficult  problems  in  geology.  The  basis,  a  kind  of  protogine, 
is  termed  Arkenne^  and  seldom  protrudes  through  the  snows  and  glaciers 
of  the  highest  mountains.  On  the  Kattorhom  and  in  its  vicinity  the  level 
of  the  Oreen  Slate^  which  forms  the  summit  of  this  gigantic  mountain ,  is 
observed  to  vary  as  much  as  30(X/,  the  basis  being  gneiss  and  mica  slate, 
which  are  connected  with  each  other  without  interruption,  as  CHordano  has 
shown.  Erosion  followed  by  slip»  can  therefore  alone  account  for  the  form 
of  this  isolated,  toothlike  peak,  which  is  probably  but  a  scanty  remnant  of 
a  once  extensive  chain. 

Towards  the  S.W.  the  masses  of  M<mt  Blane  and  the  Aiffuilles  Rouges 
stand  in  the  same  relation  to  these  central  masses  as  those  of  the  St.  Oott- 
hard  and  Finateraarhom  to  the  N.E.  In  these  again  the  fan-structure  and 
the  granitic  basis  are  fully  developed.  But  of  these  masses  it  is  only  the 
K.E.  or  N.  extremities  which  belong  to  Switzerland,  those  namely  which 
extend  into  the  S.W.  part  of  the  canton  of  FoJaM  as  far  as  Martigny. 

In  the  Alps  of  Tioiao  gneiss  and  mica-schist  predominate.  The  peculiar 
character  of  the  central  mass  almost  disappears.  The  ill-defined  chlorite, 
talcose,  and  mica-s«hists  no  longer  intermingle  with  the  rocks  of  the  basis, 
but  occupy  a  distinct  position  on  the  outer  crust.  Oneiss  predominates  in 
the  valleys  and  lower  slopes,  mica-schist  in  the  higher  mountain  regions, 
forming,  for  example,  the  crest  and  summits  of  the  Campolongo  Pcus  as 
far  as  the  Pizzo  Fomo. 

The  structure  is  here  very  complicated,  the  disruption  of  the  rock 
being  horizontal,  and  the  lamination  of  the  mica-schist  nearly  vertical, 
while  the  formation  of  the  basis  is  much  contorted  and  fractured. 

In  the  upper  Tal  MnggfA  appears  a  meridional  direction  of  the  moun- 
tain strata  completely  at  variance  with  their  general  direction  in  those 
parts  of  the  Alps  already  considered,  and  with  the  main  direction  of  the 
whole  range.  This  variation  is  not  confined  to  the  litUe-known  mountains 
of  Ticino,  but  may  be  traced  as  far  as  the  Upper  Bngadinty  and  pre- 
vails throughout  the  whole  chain  from  the  upper  VtU  Maggia  to  the 
Maloja^  54  M.  in  length,  and  from  Ghiavenna  to  Valty  or  about  32  H.  in 
breadth.  This  direction  and  the  inclination  of  the  strata  towards  the  E. 
appear  to  bear  out  the  conjecture  that  Piedmont  was  encircled  with  a  com- 
plete amphitheatre  of  mountains  before  the  comparatively  recent  changes 
in  the  earth's  crust  occasioned  the  present  configuration  of  the  Alps. 

The  gneiss  which  particularly  characterises  Ticino,  first  occurs  in  the 
W.  in  the  basis  of  Xonte  Rosa  and  the  precipices  and  cliffs  of  the  valley 
of  Maeugnaga  (p.  262),  the  grandest  basin  in  the  Alps.  In  the  higher  regions 
it  blends  with  the  mica-schist,  of  which  the  four  principal  peaks  of  Monte 
Rosa  appear  to  be  exclusively  composed.  The  main-group  rests  on  a 
meridional  chain,  a  huge  wall  of  rock  which  extends  from  Btalden  (p.  266) 
above  Vispaeh  to  Ivrea  at  the  S.  base  of  the  range,  a  distance  of  60  M., 
and  throughout  half  this  extent  is  not  less  than  10,000'  in  height.  This 
forms  a  barrier  between  the  Pennine  and  L^^ontine  Alp». 

In  a  similar  manner  the  Adula  Baage,  to  the  E.  of  the  Alps  of 
Ticino,  although  lower,  forms  the  boundary  between  the  Lepontine  and 
Rhaetian  Alps.  This  broad  mass  is  bleak  and  desolate,  without  strongly 
defined  summits,  and  is  covered  with  snow  and  glaciers  which  rarely  de- 
scend from  the  heights,  the  declivities  being  too  precipitous,  and  not  fur- 
rowed by  valleys.  This  is  the  cradle  of  the  Rhine  (p.  366).  The  meri- 
dional valleys  are  longer  and  deeper. 

Throughout  this  group,  the  strata  decline  towards  the  N.E.  and  E., 
and  gneiss  constitutes  the  basis  in  the  Ved  Blegno.  Indications  of  a  barrier 
between  the  Adula  Range  and  the  Alps  of  Ticino  are  observed  in  the 
isolated  limestone  and  marble  masses  contained  in  the  gneiss  near  Rosso 
and  Landarenea  in  the  Vol  Calanca^  which  form  the  connecting  links 
between  the  black  slates  of  S.  Bernardino  and  those  of  the  Vol  Blegno, 

The  gneiss  mass  which  extends  along  the  SpWgen  RotUe  from  Bekams 
to   the  Roffna  (p.  360)  and  Ferrera  (p.  960)   attains  its  most  e(nnplete 


Xin.    GEOLOGY  OF  THE  ALPS.  XXXIX 

derelopment  in  the  snowy  and  glacier -clad  summits  of  the  Burette 
Alps.  The  peeuliarities  of  this  Central  Mass  are  particularly  remarkable 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  SpWgen  Pa9*.  The  Roffna  consists  of  por- 
phyric  or  granitic  gneiss.  On  the  BpWgen  Fas»y  as  well  as  along  the  entire 
line  of  the  crystalline  schists,  gneiss,  mica  schist,  and  calcareous  black 
and  green  schists,  occur  intervening  rocks,  the  chief  of  which  are  *  ranch- 
wacke*,  perforated  with  the  so-called  ^chamois  carems*,  and  marble  and 
slate,  which  in  some  cases  tend  to  the  mica-schist  and  gneiss,  in  others  to 
the  clay-slate.  The  same  is  the  case  on  the  Via  Mala  (p.  308),  between 
the  slate  of  which  and  that  of  Curver  a  series  of  dolomite,  gneiss,  and  lime- 
stone intervenes,  apparently  forming  a  continuation  of  the  talcose,  calcare- 
ous, and  felspar  masses  of  the  Netza  and  AUnne  Alps. 

The  crystalline  slates  which  extend  from  this  point  to  the  S.  adjacent 
zone,  scarcely  admit  of  general  classification.  They  are  partly  associated 
with  masses  of  granite  and  syenite,  and  partly  waver  between  chlorite 
schist,  hornblende,  mica  schist,  and  gneiss,  without  assuming  a  definite 
character.  The  position  of  the  strata  and  lamination  cannot  be  reduced 
to  primary  laws. 

The  lofty  range  of  the  Beraiaa,  on  the  frontier  of  the  Orisons  and 
Valtellina,  rises  as  a  central  mass  in  the  space  between  the  VcU  Camoniea 
and  the  Upper  Engadine.  Its  gneiss  is  intersected  at  Cavaglia  (p.  341)  and 
Piseiadella  by  the  two  Bemina  routes,  and  is  almost  entirely  encircled  by 
granite,  hornblende,  and  serpentine,  which  is  the  case  in  none  of  the  other 
central  masses.  The  structure  of  the  Bemina  exhibits  no  tendency  to  the 
fan-shape,  the  rocks  being  exclusively  schistous,  and  differing  from  the 
granitic  gneiss  and  protogine  granites  of  the  N.  and  W.  central  masses. 
The  dip  of  the  strata  is  always  to  the  N.  and  N.E.  The  granite  of  Bmaio 
(p.  343)  appears  in  the  huge  slate  formation  declining  to  the  N.  as  a  con- 
siderable intervening  layer  only,  as  on  both  sides  the  inclination  of  the 
gneiss  and  mica  slate  is  the  same. 

The  central  mass  of  the  BilTrette,  between  the  Engadine  and  Vorart- 
berg,  exhibits,  in  common  with  the  more  western  central  masses  on  the 
margin  of  the  central  zone,  the  fan-shaped  structure,  the  superposition  of 
the  crystalline  slates  over  the  Jura  and  more  recent  strata,  and  the  occur- 
rence of  granitic  gneiss  in  the  axis  of  the  fan.  Another  characteristic  of 
this  mass  is  the  vast  extent  of  the  hornblende  schists  which  partially 
supersede  the  gneiss,  and  the  meridional  direction  of  the  associated  rocks, 
so  that  the  axis  of  the  mass  corresponds  neither  wiih  the  direction  of  the 
lamination  nor  the  watershed.  The  granite,  which  from  the  W.  extremity 
forms  the  axis  of  the  range,  extends  over  the  eminences  of  the  SilvrettOy 
Ferment,  and  Jamthai  snow-mountains  from  the  source  of  the  Landquart 
(p.  314),  and  the  III  (p.  363). 

An  attempt  has  thus  been  made  to  trace  the  central  masses  from  the 
centre  as  far  as  the  E.  and  W.  limits  of  Switzerland. 

Alpine  Farming.  In  spring,  as  soon  as  the  snow  melts  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Alps,  and  the  first  herbage  makes  its  appearance,  the  cattle  are 
released  from  their  winter  confinement,  and  driven  to  the  lower  pastures  \ 
about  the  middle  of  June  higher  regions  are  ascended,  and  at  the  begin- 
ning of  July  a  number  of  the  herds  reach  the  highest  pastures.  At  the 
beginning  of  September  they  descend  to-  the  lower  districts,  and  about 
the  10th  of  October  return  to  the  valleys  and  their  winter-quarters.  In 
summer  the  best  cows  yield  10—16  quarts  of  milk  daily,  from  which, 
during  the  pasture  season  of  4  months,  about  2  cwt.  of  cheese  is  pre- 
pared, realising  on  an  average  1(2  fr.  per  pound.  The  best  cheese  is  pro- 
duced on  pastures  about  SuXX  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  most 
favoured  districts  being  the  valleys  of  the  Emme  (p.  93),  the  Simme 
(p.  158),  and  the  Sarine  (p.  154).  The  herdsman  (Senne)  with  his  boys 
has  abundant  occupation  in  assembling  his  80  or  90  cows  twice  a  day  to 
be  milked,  in  making  the  cheese,  and  cleaning  the  vessels  employed  in 
the  process.  The  stables  or  huts  (Fr.  Chalet,  Ger.  SennhHtte)  in  which 
the  cattle  and  herdsmen  are  housed  for  the  night,  and  where  the  cheese 
is  manufactured,  are  rudely  constructed  of  pine-logs,  and  not  always  im- 
pervious to  wind  and  rain  *,  the  flat  roofs  consist  of  broad,  oblong,  or 
square  pieces  of  wood,  or  *8hingles%  kept  in  their  places  by  heavy  stones. 


XL  XIV.    GLACIERS. 

The  chaleta  of  the  better  class  are  generally  divided  into  three  compart- 
ments, the  largest  containing  the  fire-place  and  milk  cauldron,  another 
being  the  dairy,  or  cheese-manufactory,  and  the  third  a  sleeping-room. 
The  sole  furniture  consists  of  a  wooden  bench  and  table.  Although  the 
neighbourhood  of  these  huts  is  generally  dirty  and  uninviting,  they  will 
often  be  hailed  with  satisfaction  by  the  hungry  wayfarer,  as  they  generally 
afford  excellent  milk,  fresh  butter,  cheese,  and  bread.  In  the  more 
frequented  districts  coffee,  wine,  honey,  eggs,  and  even  a  tolerable  bed  of 
hay  may  also  be  obtained  at  the  chalets.  Many  of  the  huts  are  recep- 
tacles for  hay  only. 

For  the  ManufcuUtre  of  Cheese^  the  freshest  milk,  or  that  from  which 
the  cream  has  already  been  removed,  is  employed  according  to  the  quality 
of  the  cheese  to  be  made.  The  cheese  having  been  separated  from  the 
whey  by  means  of  rennet,  and  pressed,  is  placed  in  the  magazine,  where 
it  is  turned  daily,  and  moistened  with  cloths  saturated  with  salt-water. 
If  the  whey  is  not  used  for  sanitary  purposes,  an  inferior  quality  of 
cheese  termed  '  Zieger '  is  again  prepared  from  it,  and  the  refuse  serves  to 
fatten  the  pigs  which  are  frequently  kept  for  this  purpose  on  the  mountains. 

The  term  *^Alp  \  which  recurs  so  frequently  in  the  Handbook,  signifies 
a  mountain-pasture.  '  Matten '  are  the  richer  and  less  elevated  meadows. 
*^Qrat '  denotes  a  rugged  and  precipitous  mountain-ridge. 

XIV.    Glacien. 

The  somewhat  granular  snow  (neige  grenut)  which  falls  in  the  highest 
Alpine  regions,  above  the  snow  line  (8000'),  accumulates  in  the  valleys  and 
clefts  of  the  rocks,  and  after  being  partially  melted  during  the  day,  espe- 
cially in  the  lower  districts,  is  converted  during  the  night  into  a  solid 
frozen  mass.  Thus,  layer  by  layer,  is  formed  the  QladeVy  the  most  strik- 
ing feature  of  the  Alpine  world,  a  stupendous  mass  of  the  purest  azure  ice. 
No  scene  in  Switzerland  is  so  strikingly  and  strangely  beautiful  as  when, 
in  some  fertile  and  wooded  valley,  the  glittering  pinnacles  of  a  glacier  are 
suddenly  presented  to  our  gaze  in  the  immediate  proximity  of  corn-fields, 
fruit-trees,  smiling  meadows,  and  human  habitations. 

The  more  extensive  or  Primary  glaciers  are  long  arms  of  solid  ice, 
resembling  frozen  cataracts,  which  occupy  entire  valleys,  frequently  with 
a  very  slight  fall,  and  are  estimated  to  attain  a  thickness  of  1500*.  The 
smaller  or  Secondary  glaciers  are  of  more  limited  extent,  lying  on  the  moun- 
tain-slopes with  a  considerable  fall,  and  being  of  less  massive  consistency. 

At  a  height  exceeding  10,000'  above  the  sea-level,  the  influence  of  the 
sun  is  too  slight  to  melt  the  surface  of  the  snow  sufficiently  for  its  con- 
version into  ice.  This  snowy,  unconsolidated  upper  portion  of  the  glacier 
is  termed  Fim  (Fr.  Nevi),  which  lower  dowA,  where  the  sun's  rays 
become  more  powerful  gradually  blends  with  the  ice  of  the  glacier,  formed 
as  already  described.  The  glacier  is  therefore,  as  it  were,  the  offshoot  of 
the  Fim,  but  is  easily  distinguishable  from  it,  the  surface  of  the  ice  being 
rounded  towards  the  margins,  and  that  of  the  Fim  towards  the  centre. 

While  the  fall  of  snow  and  the  formation  of  glacier-ice  suffer  no  inter- 
mission, the  extent  of  the  glaciers  does  not  increase.  The  compensation 
in  the  higher  regions  is  effected  by  the  evaporation  and  absorption  of  the 
ice  by  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air,  in  the  lower  regions  by  the  con- 
version of  the  ice  into  water,  which  descends  through  the  fissures,  and 
forms  a  brook,  the  invariable  outlet  of  every  glacier. 

It  is  a  well-established  fact  that  glaciers  are  in  a  perpetual  state  of 
motion,  and  descend  with  more  or  less  rai^ity.  Professor  Forbes  found 
that  the  ice  of  the  Mer  de  Qlace  advanced  209^  per  annum  at  the  source 
of  the  Arveyron,  while  at  the  base  of  the  Montanvert  the  annual  pro- 
gression amounted  to  822'.  The  motion  in  winter  is  less  rapid  than  in 
spring  and  summer.  It  has  been  calculated  that  200  years  would  elapse 
before  a  mass  of  rock,  lying  on  the  surface  of  the  glacier  at  its  upper  end 
would  reach  the  valley  of  Ghamouny. 

Sauuure  (pp.  217,  230)  attributes  the  advance  of  glaciers  entirely  to 
the  mechanical  pressure  exercised  by  the  masses  of  snow  on  the  upper 
portions,  whilst  the  lower  extremities  gradually  melt  away.    Agoitix  (p.  135) 


XIV.    GLACIERS.  XLI 

and  his  disciples  maintain  that  the  increase  of  glaciers  is  owing  to  the  rain 
and  snow  which  penetrate  into  the  fissures,  and,  being  converted  into  ice, 
tend  to  force  t^e  glacier  downwards.  Forbes  is  of  opinion  that  the  glacier 
is  a  sluggish  stream  which,  notwithstanding  the  apparently  brittle  nature 
of  the  ice,  possesses  sufficient  plasticity  to  accommoidate  itself  to  the  irre- 
gularities of  its  bed. 

The  masses  of  rock  and  detritus  which  become  detached  from  the 
mountain-sides  descend  either  to  the  glacier  itself  or  to  its  margins,  and, 
as  the  glacier  continually,  but  imperceptibly  advances,  form  long  walls  or 
barriers  on  either  side.  These  are  termed  Lateral  Morainet  (Ger.  Oan- 
deeken).  When  two  glaciers  meet,  their  lateral  moraines  extend  over  the 
surface  of  the  ice,  and  form  long  walls  of  rubbish,  termed  Medial  Moraines 
(Ger.  Ou^erlinien)y  which,  conveyed  by  the  glacier  to  its  lower  end,  and 
there  deposited,  constitute  the  TermiruU  Moraine  (Ger.  Stimwall).  The 
stones  of  the  latter  thus  generally  afford  a  clue  to  the  nature  of  the  inac- 
cessible rocks  of  the  higher  Alps. 

The  formation  of  ice  on  the  upper  part  of  the  glacier  is  usually 
exactly  compensated  by  the  absorption  and  dissolution  of  the  ice  eflected 
by  the  action  of  the  sun  and  air,  and  the  glacier  seldom  advances  beyond  its 
accustomed  bed.  This,  however,  is  by  no  means  invariably  the  case  \  in 
1818,  the  terminal  moraine  of  the  Rhajfie  Glacier  (p.  137)  for  example,  ad- 
vanced ISC'.  The  lower  extremity,  or  ^  tongue ',  of  the  glacier,  then  forces 
everything  before  it  —  soil,  turf,  stones,  trees,  and  the  ruined  chalets  — 
forming  a  huge  wall  with  the  rubbish  of  its  lateral  and  medial  moraines. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  formation  of  ice  is  exceeded  by  the  consump- 
tion, the  glacier  decreases,  draws  in  its  feelers,  so  to  speak,  and  retires 
into  the  narrow  mountain-gullies.  The  former  extent  of  a  glacier  can  in 
this  case  be  traced  by  the  position  of  the  terminal  moraine.  Warm  seasons 
(1811,  1822,  1827,  1834)  occasioned  retrogression,  whilst  an  advance  of  the 
glaciers,  sometimes  amounting  to  2"  daily,  was  observed  in  the  years 
1815-17,  1828^,  1886,  1837,  1867-59,  and  finally  in  1861. 

Large  slabs  of  rock  are  occasionally  seen  on  the  glaciers,  supported 
by  pillars  of  ice.  These  so-called  Olaeier  Tables  protect  the  ice  on  which 
they  rest  from  the  influence  of  the  sun^s  rays,  while  the  ice  in  their  vicinity 
dissolves,  thus  insulating  the  *  table".  Smaller  objects,  such  as  stones, 
leaves,  or  even  a  dead  insect,  produce  an  opposite  effect  on  the  surface 
of  the  ice.  They  become  heated  by  the  sun,  and  melting  the  ice  under 
them,  form  hollows. 

When  the  glacier  stream  overflows  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  the  solid 
icy  mass  is  rent  by  innumerable  fractures,  which  by  exposure  to  the  sun 
and  air  give  rise  to  the  lee- Needles  and  Ice- Pyramids. 

The  streams  formed  by  the  melting  of  the  ice  on  the  surface  of  the 
glacier  descend  into  the  crevices  and  fissures,  and,  occasionally  penetrating 
the  entire  mass,  unite  with  the  brook  beneath  the  glacier.  In  the  former 
case  they  are  termed  Brunnen^  or  wells,  Fr.  Baignoirs;  in  the  latter, 
TrictUer y  or  funnels,  Fr.  Movlins.  These  openings  and  clefts  are  closed 
in  winter,  and  the  mass  of  ice  becomes  more  consolidated.  In  spring  and 
summer,  however,  new  rents  continually  appear,  their  formation  being 
generally  attended  by  a  loud  cracking  noise. 

The  Crevasses  (Ger.  SchrUnde)  are  a  constant  source  of  vexation  to 
the  glacier-wanderer.  When  he  has  succeeded  in  scaling  the  lofty  and 
precipitous  moraines,  and  has  threaded  his  way  through  a  chaos  of  rocks 
on  the  surface  of  the  ice,  his  progress  is  too  often  obstructed  by  some 
yawning  gulf  which  compels  him  to  retrace  his  steps,  or  have  recourse 
to  a  long  circuitous  route.  When  these  abysses  are  concealed  by  newly- 
fallen  snow,  a  single  incautious  step  may  be  attended  with  the  most  dis- 
astrous consequences. 

The  beds  of  ancient  glaciers  may  frequently  be  traced  by  the  singular 
manner  in  which  they  have  polished  and  furrowed  the  surface  of  the 
rocks  over  which  they  have  passed.  This  phenomenon  (Ger.  Qletscher- 
sehliff)  is  occasioned  by  the  friction  of  pebbles  and  fragments  of  quartst, 
interposed  between  the  glacier  and  the  rock,  and  is  observed  only  on 
granite  and  gneiss ,  as  for  instance  at  the  Handeck  (p.  134).  From  these 
and  numerous  other  indications   of   a  similar  nature,    it  is   inferred   that 


XLII  XV,    WRESTLING  MATCHES. 

the  extent  occupied  by  glaciers  at  a  very  remote  period  was  far  greater 
than  at  present.  This  conjecture  is  confirmed  by  the  frequent  occurrence 
of  Erratic  Blocks  of  granite  in  districts  to  which  they  must  have  been 
conveyed  by  some  external  force,  having  been  in  all  probability  deposited 
by  ancient  glaciers.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  boulders  of  this  de- 
scription are  found  on  the  E.  slopes  of  the  Jura,  near  Bienne  and  Soleure, 
where  the  rf)Ck-formation  consists  entirely  of  limestone. 

The  glacier-domain  of  Switzerland  extends  from  Mont  Blanc  to  the 
Ortler,  the  entire  area  thus  occupied  being  computed  at  900  sq.  M.  The 
cantons  of  the  Orisons  (226),  Bern  (156),  and  the  Valais  (130)  comprise 
*|ioths  of  the  Swiss  glaciers  (640),  ^(ards  of  which  send  their  waters  to 
the  Rhine.  The  mightiest  glacier  mass  is  the  Bemina  (p.  330);  the  mos^ 
extensive  glacier,  15  M.  in  length,  is  the  Aletsch  Glacier  (p.  1^). 

XV.    Wrestling  Matches. 

(Scltwing/este.) 

On  stated  occasions  the  youth  of  a  valley,  or  of  several  neighbouring 
valleys,  congregate  for  the  purpose  of  wrestling.  The  elders  and  children 
of  the  community  take  part  in  the^  scene  as  spectators.  For  a  victory  to 
be  decisive,  the  vanquished  wrestler  must  be  thrown  upon  his  back  by 
his  antagonist,  and  so  obstinately  are  these  contests  prolonged  that  injuries 
of  a  serious  nature  not  unfrequently  result.  These  are  interesting  and 
characteristic  spectacles,  except  of  course  where  they  are  got  up  for  pur- 
poses of  gain  and  the  diversion  of  strangers ,  as  at  Interlaken  and  other 
great  resorts  of  travellers. 

The  following  are  the  fixed  dates  of  some  of  the  most  important 
matches. 

The  29th  June  at  Schiipfheim,  in  the  Entlebuch  (p.  93). 

The  Sunday  after  the  6th  July  on  the  Seealp,  in  the  canton  of 
Appenzell. 

The  Sunday  after  the  26th  July  (St.  James)  on  the  Batersalp,  3  M. 
from  Weissbad  (p.  278). 

The  22nd  July  on  the  Rigi  (p.  59). 

The  26th  July  at  Sachseln  (p.  91). 

The  26th  July  on  the  Engstlenalp,  near  Meiringen  (p.  130). 

The  1st  Sunday  in  August  on  the  Stadtalp,  near  Meiringen  (p.  125). 

The  1st  Sunday  in  August  on  the  Wengemalp  (p.  116). 

The  10th  August  on  the  Tannalp,  near  Meiringen  (p.  126). 

The  2nd  Sunday  in  August  at  Ennetegg  in  the  Entlebuch  (p.  93). 

The  16th  August  near  the  Chapel  of  Notre-Dame-de-la-Qorge  on  the 
Mont  Joli  (p.  229). 

The  last  Sunday  in  August  at  Ennetegg  in  the  Entlebuch. 

In  August,  on  the  patron  Sainfs  day ,  near  the  Baths  of  XJmasch  in 
the  Canton  of  Appenzell. 

The  1st  Sunday  in  September  at  Ennetegg. 

The  29th  September  and  1st  Sunday  in  October  at  St.  Joseph  near 
Schiipfheim  (p.  93). 

Abbreviations  used  in  the  Handbook. 

R.  =  Boom. 

L.    =  Light. 

B.  =  Breakfast. 

D.  =  Dinner. 

S.   =  Supper. 

A.  =  Attendance. 

M.  =  English  mile. 

N.  =  North.  ft.  (')  =  Engl.  foot. 

N.B.  Everything  particularly  worthy  of  note  is  indicated  by  an  asterisk. 
Distances  in  mountainous  districts  are  given  according  to  the  time  in 
which  they  are  traversed  by  average  walkers. 


s. 

=  South. 

E. 

=  East. 

W. 

=  West. 

r. 

=  Right. 

1. 

=  Left. 

hr. 

=  Hour. 

min. 

=  Minute. 

r 


I ' 


•»*" 


4» 


4 


1.  Bftle. 

Hotels.    *Tbb£e  Kikgs  (Plan  a)  on  the  Rhine,  R.  3— 5fr.,  L.  %  B.  2^ 
D.  at  5  o'clock  4,  A.  1  fr. ;  ^Schweizerhop,  and  oppoiite  to  it,  *HdTEL  Euleb, 
R.   3,  B.   11/7,  A.  *\iy  omnibiu  1  fr.,  both  at  the  Centi«l  Stotion;  Favcon; 
^Cjoogne  (PI.  b),  R.  2%  B.  1>J2,  D.  inc.  W.  3,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.  ^  ♦^^j^^ok     x 
(PI.  c) ,   similar  prices.  —  *Coukonne  (PI.  d),  *Koff  (PI.  c) ,  both  o^ne  ^ 
Rhine ^  HdTEL  de  la  Poste;  Schiff,  unpretending,  well  spoken  of,  R.  and 

A.  2  fr.  —  In  Klein-Batet^  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  *Bbab  (PI.  g),  R.  li(*i 

B.  1,  A.  i|2  fr.  ^  opposite  to  it  the  ^Ckoix  (PI.  h)^  Hotbl  Schbiedkb  and 
*H6t£l  Michel-,  both  opposite  the  station  of  the  Baden  railway,  R.  2,  B. 
1 — I'l'i  fr.  —  The  usual  dinner-hour  at  all  the  hotels  is  12.  30. 

Caf^a.  *Ca/4  des  Trois  Rois^  near  the  hotel  of  that  name;  *Co/4 
National,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhine  near  the  bridge ^  Ct^/i  de  Bdle, 
near  the  theatre.  Refresbment-roomc  at  the  Central  Station  and  the  Baden 
Station.  —  Kibiger^  Barfitsser-PIatz ;  Schumacher,  opp.  the  Central  Station; 
Summer- Casino  (PL  18),  concert  on  Wed.  6—9  p.  m.  —  Thoma't  garden, 
near  the  Central  Station. 

Oomreyancea.  Omnibus  from  the  Station  to  the  town  (50  lbs.  of  luggage 
free)  »|2  fr. ,  from  the  Baden  to  the  Central  Station  1  fr.  (kirriage  for 
i|4  hr.  1—2  persons  80  c,  3--4  pers.  1  fr.  20  c,  by  the  hour  2—3  fr.,  to  or 
from  the  station  1—4  pers.  li|2  fr.,  from  one  station  to  the  other  1 — 2  pers. 
I'lzj  3 — 4  pers.  2  fr.,  each  box  30  c.  extra. 

Railway -Stations.  Baden  Station  in  Klein-Basel  *]*  M.  (in  a  straight 
direction)  from  the  Rhine  Bridge;  duty  payable  on  carved  woodwork 
brought  from  Switzerland  10  kreuzer  per  lb.  The  Alsace  and  the  Swiss 
lines  both  start  from  the  Central  Station  in  B&le,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
town,  about  1  M.  from  the  Rhine  bridge.  The  waiting-rooms  of  the  former 
are  on  the  r.,  those  of  the  latter  on  the  I.  side  of  the  building.  The  exterior 
of  the  station  is  adorned  with  relief- portraits  of  Newton,  Humboldt, 
Laplace,  and  Euler  (p.  4).  Above  the  doors  in  the  portico  are  the  arms  of 
the  22  (Cantons. 

Post  and  Telegraph  OfAoes  (PI.  16)  in  the  Freien-Straase ;  also  at  the 
Central  Station. 

Baths  in  the  Rhine  near  the  Miinster,  entrance  from  the  Pfalz  (p.  3). 
Warm  baths  at  Meyer-Ritter'^s  in  the  Elisabethen  -  Strasse  *,  Sigmund,  Leon- 
hardstrasse. 

Fewspapers  in  the  Reading  Club  (open  10  a.  m.  to  9>fs  p.  m.)  by  the 
Miinster.  Strangers  must  be  introduced  by  a  member,  perhaps  the  land- 
lord of  their  hotel. 

Snglish  Ohureh  Service  in  the  Church  of  St.  Martin  (PI.  8). 

Bftle,  or  Bastl  (871'),  the  principal  town  of  the  half-canton 
Bale-Ville  (pop.  44,834,  12,019  Rom.  Cath.),  is  first  mentioned 
in  the  year  374  under  the  name  of  BaaUea,  and  appears  to  have 
been  founded  by  the  Roman  army  when  it  fell  back  on  the 
Rhine  near  the  old  Cohnia  Augusta  Rauracorunif  founded  B.  G. 
27  by  L.  Munatius  Plancus  (now  called  BaseL^Augatj  5  M.  from 
Bale  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Rhine).  Bale  is  greatly  Indebted 
for  its  wealth,  which  has  become  proverbial,  to  its  favourable 
position  at  the  junction  of  the  frontiers  of  Germany,  France,  and 
Switzerland. 

Badkkeb,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  1 


2    Moute  1.  BALE.  Munstet, 

The  town  lies  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  and  is  connected 
with  KUin-Baael  on  the  r.  bank  by  a  wooden  bridge,  280  yds. 
in  length,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  triangular  obelisk,  furnished 
with  a  barometer,  thermometer,  etc. 

The  •Muniter  (PI.  9),  an  imposing  edifice,  the  two  lofty 
towers  of  which  are  visible  from  a  considerable  distance,  was 
formerly  the  Cathedral  of  the  see  of  Bale  (the  bishop's  residence 
is  now  at  Soleure).  It  was  built  by  the  Emperor  Henry  II.  in 
1010 — 1019,  and  was  restored  in  1185,  after  having  been  de- 
stroyed by  fire.  In  1356  the  old  building  was  all  but  levelled 
by  an  earthquake,  but  is  now  rebuilt  in  the  Gothic  style.  Of 
the  original  structure  the  N.  portal,  or  8t.  Gallus  gate-way,  still 
exists,  and  1»  adorned  with  statues  of  the  Evangelists,  John  the 
Baptist,  and  other  saints;  over  the  church-door  is  a  relief  repre- 
senting the  wise  and  foolish  virgins;  at  the  sides  in  6  niches 
are  the  works  of  charity,  and  at  the  top  Christ  on  the  Judgment- 
seat  and  the  angels  at  the  last  day.  The  W,  Fnmt  under  the 
towers,  with  the  principal  portal  and  two  side-entrances,  belongs 
to  the  14th  cent. ;  on  the  front  are  represented  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  and  under  them  the  Emp.  Henry,  the  founder  and  bene- 
factor of  the  church,  with  the  Empress  Kunigunde;  on  the  two  side- 
entrances  are  two  knights,  on  the  1.  St.  George  and  the  Dragon, 
and  on  the  r.  St.  Martin.  The  towers,  which  are  *?18'  in  height, 
were  not  completed  till  1500.  In  the  year  1431  the  convocation 
of  the  great  Couneit  in  the  Milnster  first  began;  It  consisted  of 
upwards  of  500  clergymen,  whose  ostensible  task  was  a  'refor- 
mation of  the  Church  in  head  and  members';  but  after  having 
disputed  for  years  without  any  result,  and  having  been  excom- 
municated by  Pope  Eugene  IV,,  the  Convocation  was  at  last 
dissolved  in  1448.  The  Church  is  open  to  the  public  on  Tues- 
days and  Fridays,  2—4  p.  m.  The  sacristan  lives  opposite  to 
the   principal   entrance  (fee  ^g  fr.);  in  summer  he  is  generally 

tt>  be  found  in  the  church  at  the  above  hours. 

The  Interior  of  the  Miinster  was  bereft  of  its  most  beautiful  ornaments 
in  the  great  iconoclasm  of  1529,  but  was  re-decorated  in  1852 — 56  with 
great  skill,  and  is  now  one  of  the  finest  Protestant  churches  in  existence. 
The  beautiful  rood-loft  of  1381  now  serves  to  support  the  organ,  a  very 
fine  instrument,  performances  on  which  may  be  heani  once  or  twice  a  week 
in  summer,  6 — 1  p.  m.  (admission  1  fr.).  The  pulpit  dates  from  1424.  The 
aisles  and  choir  contain  fine  old  monuments  and  tombstones  built  into 
the  walls;  in  the  N.  aisle  is  the  old  episcopal  chair;  also  a  very  remark- 
able relief  of  the  11th  cent,  (martyrdom  of  St.  Vincent) ;  the  font  is  of  1465 ; 
on  the  pillar  opposite  is  the  tombstone  of  the  learned  Erasmus  of  Rotter 
dam  (d.  1536J,  with  a  long  Latin  inscription.  In  the  passage  round  the 
choir  are  the  monuments  of  the  Empress  Anna  (d.  1281),  consort  of  Rudolph 
of  Hapsburg  and  mother  of  Albert  I.,  and  of  her  youngest  son  Charles. 
The  stained-glass  windows,  representing  Moses  and  David,  Peter  and 
Paul,  and  the  four  Evangelists,  are  by  artists  of  Zurich  and  St.  Gall,  and 
the  newest,  representing  Christ  as  Judge  of  the  world,  is  from  the 
stained-glass  Institution  of  Munich.  The  crypt,  which  belongs  to  the 
original  edifice,  is  now  occupied  by  the  stoves  employed  in  heating  the 
church.     A  stair   leads    from    the    choir  to   the   Council  Sail,   in   which 


Museum,  BALE.  1.  Route,     3 

one  of  the  five  priBcipal  committees  uied  to  suemble.  It  |g  exactly  in 
the  state  in  wbich  it  was  left  400  years  ago.  All  that  was  considered 
worth  preserving  at  the  restoration  of  the  church  is  kept  here  and  in  the 
ctuipel  of  St.  Iticholas  (see  below),  such  as  antiquities  of  the  middle  ages, 
and  fragments  of  the  nine  frescoes  of  the  celebrated  Bale  Death-dance^  painted 
at  the  commencement  of  the  15th  cent,  in  commemoration  of  the  plague, 
and  erroneously  attributed  to  Holbein.  In  the  Chapel  e/  St.  Niehola$^ 
beneath  the  Council  Hall,  may  be  seen  the  LSllenkHnig^  a  large  head  formerly 
placed  on  the  dock-tower  of  the  Shine  bridge  (taken  down  in  1898),  which 
rolled  its  eyes  and  protruded  its  long  tongue  (^Lalli")  at  each  stroke  of  the 
pendulum,  erected  in  derision  of  the  inhabitants  of  Klein  Basel  in  conse- 
quence of  some  dispute. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Choir  are  extenslYe  *Cloift0rf,  con- 
structed in  the  years  1362,  1400,  and  1487,  connecting  the  church 
with  the  Episcopal  palace,  and  employed  as  family  burial-places. 
These  cloisters  extend  to  the  Pfali,  a  terrace  behind  the  Mdn- 
ster,  rising  78'  immediately  above  the  Rhine,  and  deriving  its 
name  from  an  imperial  Pfalz,  or  palace,  to  which  it  is  said  for- 
merly to  have  belonged.  It  is  planted  with  chestnuts,  and  affords 
a  pleasing  prospect  of  the  green  river  and  the  dark  heights  of 
the  Black  Forest.  Below  the  Pfalz  are  the  swimming  and  bathing 
establishments,  and  above  the  most  western  of  the  latter  is  the 
Reading  Club  (p.  1).  Behind  the  MQnster  is  the  house  of  Eras- 
mus of  Rotterdam;  near  it,  a  statue  of  Oecolampadius. 

In  the  street  leading  from  the  Miinsterplatz  in  a  N.W.  direc- 
tion to  the  bridge,  is  the  "HuMum  (PI.  14),  open  to  the  public 
on  Sundays  from  10  to  12,  and  Wednesdays  from  2  to  4  o'clock 
(collection  of  engravings  open  on  Thursdays  from  2  to  5);  on  other 
days  admission  1  fr.  It  contains  a  picture-gallery  and  collections 
of  natural  and  scientific  curiosities. 

The  Vietue  OaUsry  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  paintings  and 
drawings  which  it  contains  of  the  younger  Holbein  (b.  at  Augsburg  1496, 
d.  at  Londmi  1664).  The  Staircase  is  adorned  with  frescoes  of  Osea, 
Flora,  and  Apollo  by  Bdeklin\  then  three  cartoons  for  the  ceiling-paint- 
ing in  the  choir  of  St.  Ludwig's  church  at  Munich,  by  Owmeliue;  Chriem- 
hilde's  lament,  the  cartoon  of  a  picture  in  the  Kibelungen  Saloon  at 
MnnicU,  by  Schnorr;  Moses  breaking  the  Tables  of  the  Law,  the  cartoon 
of  a  painting  in  the  Ch&teau  of  Rheineck,  by  Btetnle;  also  a  number  of 
casts  from  sculptures  by  Canova,  Rietschel,  Hihnel,  Chaponni^e,  and 
Trippel,  and  a  statue  of  Jason  with  the  golden  fleece,  in  marble,  by 
SehUtth.  —  Aktb-Boom.  2—14.  Old  and  modem  copies  of  Holbein'i  ob- 
literated frescoes  in  the  Council  Chamber^  pictures  by  old  masters  of 
B&Ie  and  other  places  in  Switserland.  —  Dbawinos.  Among  them  are 
84  by  H.  Holbein  and  96  by  Swiss  and  Upper  Rhenish  masters.  87—89. 
A.  Holbein,  91  —  100.  H,  Holbein,  127—190.  M.  Schongauer,  131  —  134. 
H.  Baldung  QrUn,  136—137.  A.  JHtrer,  140.  H.  aebald  Beham,  1*46.  H 
Sehdfifelini  then,  166.  Rapha^,  Ood  commanding  Koah  to  build  the  ark, 
the  design  for  a  painting  on  the  dome  of  the  Stanza  deirEliodoro  in  the 
Vatican;  156.  Titian,  Laifdscape  with  the  flight  to  Egypt.  —  Pictures. 
A.  ^N^HoLasiK  Roov.  7,  8.  Schoolm^ter^s  signboard  of  loi6;  *13.  Portrait 
of  Boniface  Amerbach  \  14.  The  burgomaster  Jacob  Meyer  and  tils  wife  \ 
16,  17,  18.  Erasmus;  19.  The  dead  body  of  Christ,  of  startling  Adelity, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  painted  from  that  of  a  drowned  Jew;  *20. 
Wife  and  children  of  the  painter;  21.  Last  Supper;  11.  Lais  Coriiitbiaca, 
the  portrait  of  a  lady  of  the  noble  family  of  OfTenburg;  23.  The  same 
lady  as  Venus  with  Cupid;  ♦*26.  The  Passion  in  eight  separate  scenes, 
formerly  in  the  Rathhaus,  for  which  Elector  Maximilian  ofiered  S0,000fl. 

1* 


4     Route  1.  BALE.  Mu9tum. 

in  1641;  34.  Portrait  of  the  printer  Froben;  26.  A   London  Merchant.    In 
the  same  room:  H.  Fries  (of  Freiburg),  46 — 61.  From  the  history  of  Mary; 
62—64.  Two  wings  of  an  altar  of  St.  John   from  Freiburg.    In  the  centre 
of  the  room,  Rebecca,  a  statue  in  marble  by  JET.  Jmhof.  —  B.  Eablt  6bk- 
KAN  Ma8T£B8.    61 — 72.  Colmar  (Sehongauer's)  School  75.  ff.  Baldtmg  Or&n-, 
Death  kissing  a  woman,  and  76.  Death  grasping  a  woman  by  the  hair; 
81.    Cranctch  the  Elder^  Stag-hunt,   and   84.    Lucretia.  —  Modbbn   Swiss 
Mastbbs.      *135.  Vautier^  Poor  rustic  debtor  urged  by  a  rich  neighbour 
and  his  agent  to  sell  his  property;  136.  E.  CHrardet,  Two  girls  with  a 
fortune-teller;  141.   A.  Landerer,  The  Confederate  ambassadors  entering 
Bale  in  1501  to  swear   allegiance  to  the  constitution;  ^146.   Stflekelberff, 
Festival  of  St.  Mary  in  the  Sabine  Mts.,  and  (without  number)  Marionettes ; 
.^Ckxlame,  Alpine  landscape  at  dusk,   the  Schreckhom  and  Wetterhorn; 
*150.  F.  KolleVy  Herd  of  cows  being  watered  at  eyening,  151.  Horse  piece, 
and   (without  number)   Cows  by  a   lake;  155.   BScktin^  Mary  Magdalene 
mourning  over  the  body  of  Christ;  160.  Sieffan^  Mountain  landscape;  166. 
L.  Robert^  Wounded  bandit  and  his  wife;  without  number,  F.  Buchser^ 
Five  Capuchins  praying  while  a  lady  and  gentleman  pass  by.    Bust  of 
Sam.   Birmann  by  Christen  (1871).  —  D.  Miscellaneous  Wobks  (Italian, 
French,  Netherlands),  most  of  them  unimportant.    171.  Herri  de  Bles^Holj 
Family;  176.  Honthorst^  Flea-hunt;  D.  Tenters,  184.  Musicians,  *185.  Bus- 
tic  interior;  198.  H.  Aldegrever,  The  Anabaptist  prophet  A.  Joris  of  Delft. 
—  E.   BiBMANK   Collection.     266.   Ann.   Caracci,  Nativity;  281.   Phil,  de 
Champaigne.,  Portrait  of  a  clergyman;  282.  Mahuse.,  Adoration  of  the  ifagi; 
*291.  Teniers,  Smoker;  311—324.  Works  hj  Peter  Birmann-,  325—230.  Sam. 
Birmann.  —  F.  Modern  Gebhan  School  (the  room  farthest  to  the  N.,  to 
the  1.  of  the 'Holbein  Room).     J.  Koch,  *351.  Macbeth  and  the  witches, 
*352.   Landscape  with  a  view   of  Olevano;  360.    W.  Ahlbom,    Landscape 
with  a  mediseval  town;  *361.  Overbeck,  Death  of  Joseph;  362.    Bchnorr, 
'Domine  quo  vadis?';  366.  Neher,  The  angel  visiting  Abraham;  367.  Bteinle, 
St.  Luke  painting  the  Madonna.  —  G.  Modern  Drawings  (at  the  S.  and 
opposite  end  of  the  collection).    1 — ^13.  Hess,  Sehravdolph,  an^  /.  C.  Koch, 
Cartoons  for  the  frescoes  in  St.  Boniface  at  Munich;  26t-8&.    Overbeck, 
Pencil  sketches;  36.  Schwind,  Parable  of  the  vineyard  (in  water-colours); 
29 — 40.    Schteind,  Drawings   of  his  earlier  period;  B.   Oenelli,  *41.  Jacob 
and  Rachel  at  the  well,  *42.  Rape  of  Europa ;  44 — 48.  K.  Eberhard,  Draw- 
ings; 60.   J.  Koch,   Adam   and  Eve;  51.    (^melius.   First  design   for   the 
Olympus  in  the  Hall  of  the  Gods  at  the  Glyptothek;  42.  Cwmelius,  Last 
Judgment,  a  pencil  sketch  of  the  fresco  in  St.  Ludwig''8  at  Munich;  *63. 
Carstens,  Olympus  attacked  by  the   Titans  and  Rape  of  Proserpine  (in 
water-colours);  54.  Schick,  Family  of  fauns;  *65.  Eb^U,  Mourning  Jews 
at  Babylon ;  58—62.  Steinle,  Drawings ;  65.  Rottmann,  View  of  Sicyon ;  71. 
Schnorr,  The  days  of  creation;  83.  Schwanthaler,  Scene  in  a  circus.  —  The 
Cabinet  of  Antiquities  contains  small  Roman  and  Greek  antiquities  and 
statuettes ,    most  of  them  found  at  Augst  (p.  1)    and  Windisch  (p.  17), 
ancient  monstrances  and  ecclesiastical  vessels,  E.  Indian  idols,  Swiss  coins 
and  medals,   Etruscan  vases,  terracotti'S,   mosaics,   4lc.  —  The  Mexican 
Cabinet  (usually  closed)  contains  a  number  of  Mexican  cariosities,  two 
mummies,  figures  and  other  objects  from  Peru  and  Chili,  and  other  objects 
of  ethnographical  interest. 

The  University  Library  in  the  same  building  (open  from 
2  to  4)  contains  upwards  of  85,000  volumes  and  4000  MSS.; 
among  the  latter  are  the  transactions  of  the  church  council, 
writings  of  Luther,  Melanchthon,  etc.  The  Vmveraity  (130  students), 
founded  in  1459  by  Pius  II. ,  is  celebrated  as  the  school  of  the 
great  mathematicians  Bemouilli,  Meriatiy  and  Euler.  The  hall 
contains  upwards  of  100  portraits  of  the  learned  men  of  Bale, 
of  the  cosmographer  Sebastian  Munater  (d.  1552),  the  reformers 
Occolampadius  and  Orynaeus,  etc. 


Af$€nal,  BALE.  i.  Bouie.     5 

The  Town  Hall  (Pi.  17)  in  the  Market-place  was  erected  in 
1508  in  the  so-called  Bnrgundian  (late  Gothic)  style,  and  restored 
in  1826.  The  fa^de  is  adorned  with  the  town -arms  (a  black 
episcopal  staff  resting  on  a  fisherman's  grappling-iron). 

The  Arsenal  (PI.  23),  the  receptacle  of  the  arms  for  the  Bale 
contingent  of  troops,  contains  little  worthy  of  note  except  the 
shirt  of  mail  worn  by  Charles  the  Bold. 

The  handsome  Spahlen-Tlior  (St.  Paul),  erected  abont  the 
year  1400,  deserves  inspection  ;  the  other  gates,  bastions,  and 
ramparts  have  been  converted  into  public  walks. 

Among  other  HedisBval  Seliei  may  be  mentioned  the  late  Gothic 
FUhmarket- Fountain,  erected  in  the  14th  cent.;  the  SpahUn- 
Fountmn  with  a  ba^iper,  supposed  to  have  been  designed  by 
Diirer;  the  Roman  archway  in  the  old  8t.  Alban'a  Monastery 
(PI.  5).  —  The  Barfusser-Church  (PI.  4),  dating  from  the  be- 
ginning of  the  14th  cent.,  with  its  very  lofty  choir,  now  serves 
as  a  store-house.  —  The  Church  of  St.  Martin  (PI.  8)  was  restored 
in  1851  and  converted  into  a  Protestant  place  of  worship.  — 
The  new  Gothic  Elitabetheffikirche  (PI.  6),  erected  at  the  expense 
of  a  wealthy  citizen  of  Bale,  contains  some  fine  stained  glass 
from  Munich.  —  The  recently  restored  (Rom.  Oath.)   Church  of 

St.  Clara  (PI.  25)  at  Klein-Basel  contains  a  fine  organ. 

The  missionary  institutions  of  Bale  are  deservedly  in  high  repute. 
The  Mission  -  ffoute  (PI.  12)  educates  missionaries  for  the  promulgation 
of  Christianity.  An  excellent  Society  for  the  JPifomotion  of  the  Public  Wel- 
fare^  whieb  has  existed  in  Bale  for  nearly  a  century,  has  a  very  extensive 
sphere  of  operation.  There  are  also  similar  institutions  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood: Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  Estab.  for  Prot.  Sisters  of  Charity 
atid  Beformatory  at  Riehen. 

The  Xoamiwnt  of  8t.  Jacob  (PI.  3),  about  i|«  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
Aeschen  gate,  on  the  road  to  the  Munster-Thal ,  by  F.  Schldth,  was  in- 
augurated in  1972.  Above  is  Helvetia  in  armour ,  with  a  wreath ',  on  the 
pedestal  are  four  falling  warriors  in  marble.  Inscription:  'Our  souls  to 
Ood,  our  bodies  to  the  enemy  !^  It  martis  the  burial  place  of  Swiss  sol- 
diers who  fell  in  1444  fighting  for  the  liberties  of  their  country.  Large 
bodies  of  irregular  troops  had  assembled  in  France  under  the  Count  Ar- 
magnac,  with  90,(XX)  of  which  the  Dauphin  marched  against  the  Confederates 
at  Bale.  The  latter  were  stationed  at  the  fortress  of  Famsburg,  about  15  M. 
to  the  S.E.  of  the  town ,  and ,  on  the  approach  of  the  French ,  13(X)  men 
immediately  attempted  to  force  their  passage  to  Bale.  After  a  desperate 
conflict  they  were  all  cut  to  pieces  near  the  village  of  St.  Jacob  where 
the  last  and  bloodiest  struggle  took  place.  The  red  wine  (not  of  a  very 
superior  quality)  yielded  by  the  vineyards  which  now  occupy  the  scene 
of  the  battle  is  known  by  the  name  of  'Swiss  Blood\ 

2.  From  Bftle  to  Bienne  (Bern  and Neuchdtel)  through 

the  Munster-Thal. 

75  M^  to  Bern.  The  high  road  leads  through  picturesque  scenery. 
Diligence  to  (66  M.)  Bienne  three  times  daily  in  summer  in  8i|s — 12Mz  hrs., 
Care  11  fr.  80  c.  —  By  Railway  (direct)  from  Bienne  to  Bern  in  1— lij4  hr. \ 
fares  3  fr.  75,  2  fr.  65,  1  fr.  90  c.  ^  to  Neuchatel  in  »|4— I'U  hr. ;  fares  3  fr. 
40,  2  fr.  55,  1  fr.  90  c. 


6     Routt  2:  MtJNSTERTHAL.  From  Bdle 

The  Miiiuiterthal,  French  Val-Jfoutiery  through  which  the  3ir$  flows,  is 
the  grandest  and  most  remarkable  in  the  whole  Jura  range.  It  is  a  suc- 
cession of  defiles  and  narrow  gorges,  whose  banks  are  clothed  with  firs, 
whilst  the  plain  smiles  with  verdant  meadows,  picturesque  villages,  and 
mills.  This  valley,  which  belongs  to  the  ancient  bishopric  of  Bale,  served 
the  Romans  as  a  line  of  communication  between  Aventicum  (Avenches, 
see  p.  164),  the  most  important  town  of  Helvetia,  and  Augusta  Raurcicortim 
(Augst,  see  p.  18),  one  of  their  advanced  posts  on  the  Rhine. 

About  Va  M.  from  the  Aeschenthor  the  road  passes  the  Monu- 
ment of  8t.  Jacob  (p.  5).  District  flat.  To  the  E. ,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Bire,  several  ruined  castles  appear,  amongst 
others  Schloss  Birseck  near  Arlesheim  (1066').  Farther  on,  Dor- 
nach  (1643'),  where  on  July  22nd,  1499,  6000  Confederates 
defeated  15,000  Austrians,  thus  terminating  the  Swabian  war. 
In  the  church  of  this  village  reposes  Maupertuis  (d.  1759),  the 
celebrated  mathematician. 

7  M.  Aesoh  (Sonne),  To  the  1. ,  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  Birs,  rises  the  ancient  castle  of  Angenstein^  situated  in  the 
Canton  of  Bern.  To  the  1,,  before  GhreUingen  is  reached, 
is  situated  a  silk-factory.  The  road  now  enters  a  more  moun- 
tainous and  picturesque  district.  Near  Pfefflngen  the  narrow  valley 
('Kins')  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  that  name, 
on  the  eminence  to  the  r.  The  green  dale  of  the  Birs  here 
forms  a  pleasing  'contrast  to  the  wooded  mountains,  whose  barren 
summits  here  and  there  show  the  bluish  calcareous  stone  of 
which  they  are  composed.  The  old  CctstU  of  Zwingen  was  the 
residence  of  the  episcopal  governors  of  the  district,  until  the  first 
French  revolution. 

73/4  M.  Lauffen  (1155')  (Sonne),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Lusel  and  Birs.  The  valley  here  widens,  but  soon  contracts  again. 
At  Saugem  (Ft.  Soyhiere)  (Kreuz)  a  difference  in  the  language 
is  remarked,  a  portion  of  the  village  being  German,  the  remainder 
French.  Further  on  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  J;he  same 
name.  BeUerive  (Pri  de  Voex)^  now  a  manufactory,  is  situated 
at  the  rocky  egress  of  the  valley,  near  the  point  where  it  ex- 
pands into  a  broad  plain.  At  a  considerable  height,  immediately 
above  the  road,  is  perched  the  castle  of  Vorburg.  On  emerging 
from  the  ravine,  the  road  turns  to  the  r.  to 

103/4  M.  Del^mont  (1430'),  Ger.  Delsberg  (*0ur8;  Faucon), 

with  a  country  residence  of  the  former  Bishops  of  BSLle. 

From  Delimont  to  Porreniruy  a  diligence  runs  three  times  daily 
in  3»J4  hrs.,  passing  by  the  foot  of  Mont  Terrible.  Porrentmy,  Ger.  Pruntrut 
(Ours),  was  once  a  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  Bale.  Excursions  8.  to  the 
wild  and  romantic  valley  of  the  Douhs  (R.  42),  IS.'K.  to  the  castles  of  Morimont 
(Ger.  Mdrsperg)  and  FereUe  (Ger.  Pftrt)^  with  a  beautiful  view  over  the 
plains  of  Alsace  and  the  Yosges,  thence  by  Burg  and  Landskron  to  B&le. 

At   CourrendUn  (1450'),    Ger.  Rennendorf  (Cerf),   a  village 

with   considerable   iron-works,    the    so-called   *Mftn8terthaI   is 

reached,  a  grand  and  romantic  defile  traversed  by  the  Birs.    The 

huge  cleft  through  which  the  stream  passes  testifies  to  the  mighty 


to  Bienne.  MOUTIER.  2.  Route.      7 

convulsion  which  has  forced  the  horizontal  strata  to  assume  their 
present  almost  perpendicular  position,  resembling  gigantic  vails 
on.  either  side  of  the  road.  In  the  middle  of  this  defile  and  at 
the  most  interesting  spot  on  the  whole  route,   are  situated  the 

glass-manufactories  and  forges  of  Roche. 

From  Munster  to  the  Weitsenstein.  At  the  mouth  of  the  gorge, 
near  the  *Pflug  inn,  a  good  road,  bounded  ou  the  8.  by  the  precipitous 
Mt.  Graiterpy  and*  on  the  N.  by  the  wooded  heights  of  Mont  Raimeux^  ascends 
to  the  1.  to  (21(4  M.)  Granftlden  (Fr.  Orandval,  1982')  and  (>|4  H.)  Cr^- 
mine  (Kreuz),  passing  the  clock-manufactory  of  N.  Perret^  following  the 
course  of  the  Rausse,  which  here  forms  some  picturesque  cascades,  it  next 
reaches  (2>|4  M.)  St.  Joseph  am  Odnsbrunnen  (Post).  This  place  lies  at  the 
N.  base  of  the  Weissenttein ,-  the  summit  of  which  (4213')  can  easily  be 
attained  in  2  hrs;  the  road  is  good,  the  latter  part  through  a  forest.  Car- 
riages may  be  had  from  Gansbrunnen  (15  fr.)  to  the  Weissenstein,  as  well 
aa  to  Miinster;  from  Htinster  to  the  Weissenstein  20  to  25  fr.  Diligence 
between  Munster  and  Olten  by  Gansbrunnen  daily  in  6'|4  hrs. 

73/4  M.  Moutier,  Ger.  Munater  (17520  (J^rone;  Hirseh),  a 
thriving  old  handsome  village,  lies  in  a  fertile  dale.  The  road 
now  traverses  a  wild  gorge  beyond  which  is  the  village  of  Court 
(22010  (Ours);  then  (IV2  M.)  SorvUier  and  (8/4  M.)  BeviLard. 

Before  B^vilard  is  reached,  a  rugged  path  diverges  to  (3  hrs.)  Keuchenette 
(see  above)  over  the  Kontoz  (4371')*  Guide  desirable.  View  similar  to 
that  from  the  Weissenstein. 

The  road  next  traverses  pasture-land  and  reaches 

7  M.  Malleray  (23160  (*Lion  dfOr,  R.  and  L.  21/2  fr.,  B. 
IV2  ft.). 

Near  Tavannesj  Ger.  Daetufelden  (24970  (*Krone),  the  road 
again  ascends,  and  in  10  min.  leads  to  lierre  P^rtnii  (petra 
pertusa)  (25980,  ^  natural  opening  in  the  rock,  36  feet  high, 
and  more  than  onc«  fortified  in  time  of  war.  It  bears  a  restored 
Roman  inscription  on  the  N.  side,  which  cannot  be  earlier  than 
161  A.  D,  This  gate,  the  highest  point  between  Tavannes  and 
Sonceboz.  marked  the  limit  of  the  Helvetian  province,  and,  at  a 
later  date,  that  of  the  bishoprics  of  Avenches,  Lausanne,  and 
Bale.     The  Birs  rises  at  the  foot  of  this  mountain. 

61/4  M.  SonoebOB  (21520  (*Krone),  a  village  in  the  valley 
of  Etguel  or  St.  Imier.  Diligence  (daily  in  4  hrs.)  to  La-Chaux- 
de-Fonds,  through  this  charming  valley  enlivened  by  signs  of 
industry  (watch-manufactories)  and  numerous  flocks. 

The  Bienne  road  follows  the  course  of  the  8eheu88  (Sute)j 
passing  through  the  villages  of  La  Llutte  and  Reuehtnetie  (Forelle) 
(19420*  It  then  turns  to  the  S.  and  leads  through  a  ravine  of 
the  Suze  (above,  to  the  r.,  are  the  ruins  of  the  chateau  of  Bond' 
Chd^tet)  to  the  prettily  situated  FrinviUiers.  From  this  point  the 
old  road  leads  across  the  Bozinger  Hohe.  which  affords  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  extensive  district  watered  by  the  Aare,  Emme,  and 
the  Zihl.  The  new  road  misses  the  above-mentioned  prospect, 
but  amply  compensates  the  traveller  by  the  view  it  affords  of  the 
valley,  as  well  as  by  its  interesting  construction  (tunnels  and 
rocky  galleries). 


8     Route  3.  LIESTAL. 

9^2  ^-  Bienne,  German  Biel  (Hdtel  du  Jura;  Croix,  R.  % 
B.  1,  L.  i/i>  A.  ^2)  Omnibus  3/^  fr. ;  Couronnei  Brewery  Zum 
8eefels)y  an  ancient  town,  free  and  independent  from  1250  to 
1798,  is  situated  near  the  lake  (1424  ft.)  of  the  saiAe  name  and 
at  the  S.  base  of  the  Jura,  the  lower  slopes  of  which  are  planted 
with  the  vine.  Pop.  8113  (891  Rom.  Cath.).  Colonel  Schwab 
readily  admits  visitors  to  his  interesting  Collection  of  Antiquities 
(found  in  the  ancient  Swiss  lake-villages).  The  new  church  is 
Roman  Catholic. 

To  Neuchdtel,  see  pp.  10,  11. 

The  Railway  to  Bern  (see  p.  4)  crosses  the  Zihl  (ThiUe) 
near  stat.  Briigg ,  and  the  Aare  near  stat.  Busswyl. 

On  the  Aare,  above  stat.  hyss,  lies  Aarherg  (p.  163)  with  an 
ancient  castle.  Stations  Suberg ,  Sehupfen,  MUnchen-Buchaee, 
and  Zollikofen,  a  station  on  the  Swiss  Central  (BSile-Herzogen- 
buchsee-Bem)  line.     Thence  to  Bern,  see  p.  13. 

3.  From  B&le  to  Geneva  by  Neuchdtel. 

162  M.  Railway.  To  Geneva  by  express  in  8,  by  ordinary  trains  in 
11  hrs. ;  fares  27  fr.  60  c,  19  fr.  65  c,  14  fr.  30  c.  —  The  equally  short 
route  by  Bern  and  Lausanne  (R.  39)  is  far  preferable.  —  Steamboats  on 
the  lakes  of  Neucbatel  and  Geneva  see  RR.  44,  48. 

On  leaving  the  station ,  a  view  is  obtained  to  the  1.  of  the 
vine-clad  hills  of  Grenzach  beyond  the  Rhine.  The  line  crosses 
the  Birs  (view  of  the  valley)  and  skirts  the  picturesque  and 
wooded  slopes  of  the  Jura.  Stat.  Muttenx;  beyond  stat.  Pratteln, 
the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Schauenburg  are  seen  on  a  rocky  eminence 
to  the  r.  On  the  Rhine,  at  some  distance  1.  of  the  line,  lies  Basel- 
Augst  (p.  1);  beyond  it  rise  the  lofty  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest. 

Here  the  line  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  and  enters  that 
of  the  Ergolz  In  the  Jura.  Beautiful  points  of  view  as  far  as 
Olten.  Nieder-8chontkal  is  the  stat.  for  Frerikendorf,  a  charming 
village  on  a  hill  to  the  r.,  much  frequented  on  account  of  its 
salubrious  air.  As  Liestal  is  approached,  the  large  Cantonal 
Hospital  is  seen  to  the  1. 

Liestal  (10330  (*Falke,  Schlmael)  on  the  ErgoU,  with  3873 
inhab.  (495  Rom.  Cath.),  is  the  seat  of  the  government  of  the 
half-canton  Bale-Campagne.  In  the  council-hall  is  exhibited  the 
cup  of  Charles  the  Bold,  found  in  his  tent  after  the  battle  of 
Nancy.  Before  reaching  Sisaach  (1233')  (Lowe),  a  small  town  of 
some  importance,  the  train  passes  (r.)  the  small  castle  of  Eben- 
rain  and  its  park.  Fine  view  from  the  Siasacher  Fluh  (2303'), 
3  M.  to  the  £.  of  the  town.  (From  Sissach  to  Aarau  by  the 
Schafmatt  see  p.  15.) 

After  passing  stat.  Sommerau  i(nd  Ldufelfingen  (1850'),  the 
train  enters  the  great  tunnel  of  Hauenstein,  2961  yds.  long,  where 
on  May  28th,  1857,  fifty-two  workmen  were  buried  by  a  fall  of 


OLTEN.  3.  Route.     9 

earth,  and  eleven  more  perished  in  their  efforts  to  rescue  them. 
As  the  train  emerges  from  the  tunnel,  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  NeU'Warthurg  are  perceived.  Farther  on,  to  the  r.  of  the  latter,  a 
beautiful  glimpse  of  the  Bernese  Alps  is  obtained,  gradually  be- 
coming visible  from  the  Wetterhom  to  the  Doldenhorn.  The 
line  now  descends  by  a  long  curve  to  the  Aare,  which  it  crosses 
at  a  considerable  distance  below  Olten,  and  then  ascends  to  the 
station  on  the  r.  bank. 

At  the  summit  of  the  Hauenstein,  ascended  in  11(4  hr.  from  stat.  Olten 
and  Laufelfingen,  is  situated  the  Frohbnrg  (2772*),  a  good  inn,  command- 
ing a  beautiful  panorama  of  the  Alps,  from  the  Sentis  to  Mont  Blanc; 
in  the  foreground  is  the  Warthurgy  and  the  valley  which  extends  to  Lu- 
cerne, traversed  by  the  railroad;  to  the  r.  is  Pilatus,  to  the  1.  the  Rigi. 
i|2  H.  distant  are  the  ruins  of  a  castle  destroyed  by  an  earthquake.  ^ — 
llie  traveller  coming  from  the  K.,  and  visiting  Switzerland  for  the  first 
time,  would  do  well  to  leave  the  train  at  Laufelfingen,  and  proceed  on 
foot  to  Olten  over  the  Frohburg;  in  fine  weather  the  view  of  the  Al|iine 
chain,  which  suddenly  becomes  visible  from  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
is  strikingly  beautiful.  —  About  2  hrs.  farther  W.,  on  the  summit  of  the 
pass  of  the  Obere  Hauenstein,  is  situated  the  favourite  Alpine  sanitary 
establishment  Langenbruck  (good  road  thence  to  IJestal). 

Oltem  (1325')  (^Schweizrrhof;  ^Halbmomd;  *SaU»av-Rettaurant. 
Passengers  to  or  from  Lucerne  and  Herzogenbuchsee-Bem  change  carriaget ; 
those  from  Bale  to  Zurich  keep  their  seats.  Detention  of  i|4 — 1J2  hr.  On 
leaving  the  waiting-rooms  the  trains  for  B&le  and  Zurich  are  to  the  le/ty 
those  to  Lucerne  and  Bern  to  the  right),  the  second  town  of  the  canton 
of  Soleure  (2998  inhab.,  733  Prot.),  is  prettily  situated  on  the 
Aare.  The  Parish  Church  possesses  an  *  Ascension'  by  Disf^li, 
and  the  Capuchin  Church  a  Madonna  by  Desehwanden.  Extensive 
railway  work-shops  and  considerable  shoe-manufactories  are  situated 
here.    Railway  by  Aarau  to  Zurich  see  R.  7. 

To  the  S.  of  Olten,  visible  to  the  1.  of  the  line,  rises  the  Wartbnrg 
(* Restaurant) t  a  small  chateau  recently  restored,  situated  on  an  isolated 
peak  several  hundred  feet  above  the  Aare.  *View  similar  to  that  from  the 
Frohburg,  and  the  ascent  likewise  recommended.  From  stat.  Olten  to  the 
top  *f4  hr.  •,  same  distance  from  Aarburg. 

On  the  height  to  the  1.  Is  the  castle  of  Neu-Warthurg,  a  fine 
point  of  view.  The  train  next  passes  through  a  short  tunnel  under 
the  rook  of  the  castle  of  Aarburg,  and  emerges  at  the  station  of 

Aarburg  (1316')  (Bar;  Krone) ^  a  small  but  wealthy  town, 
almost  entirely  rebuilt  since  the  Are  of  1840.  The  picturesque 
old  castle,  formerly  a  fortress,  built  in  1660,  and  provided  with 
bomb-proof  casemates  hewn  in  the  rock,  was  the  residence  of 
the  governors  and  a  state-prison  till  1798;  it  is  now  a  house  of 
correction  and  arsenal. 

The  Lucerne  line  diverges  here  to  the  S.E.  Stations  Niederwyl, 
Murgenthaly  Roggwyl,  Langenihal  (*L6we),  a  thriving  village  with 
extensive  timber  traffic,  and  Biitzberg.  At  Henogeabuohsee  (/fd- 
tel  du  Soleil;  carriages  generally  changed  here)  the  line  to  Bern 
diverges  (p.  13).  Stations  Inkwyl,  Suhigen,  Beyond  Derendingen 
the  line  crosses  the  6ro»»e  Emme  not  far  from  its  confluence  with 
the  Aare.     Above  Soleure,  to  the  r.,  rises  the  inn  on  the  Weia- 


10     Route  3.  NEUVEVILLE. 

senatein  (p.  12);   to  the  1.,   a  panoi&ma  of  the   Bernese  Alps. 
Before  entering  the  station  the  Aare  is  crossed. 

Soleure,  see  p.  11. 

Next  stations  Selzach^  Grenchen  (Lowe;  Traube),  a  village 
where  watches  are  manufactured,  and  Pieterlen. 

Bienne  see  p.  8. 

Near  the  beautiful  avenues  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town,  the 
train  reaches  the  Lake  of  Bienne  (1424Q,  10  M.  long,  2  M. 
wide,  greatest  depth  250',  3'  lower  than  the  lake  of  Neuchatel, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  the  Zihl.  This  river  again  emerges 
from  the  lake  of  Bienne  at  Nidau^  a  village  situated  on  the  E. 
bank.  The  train  skirts  the  N.W.  bank  of  the  lake;  the  delight- 
ful view  thus  afforded  the  traveller  is  enhanced  in  clear  weather 
by  the  snowy  summits  of  the  Alps,  which,  as  the  train  proceeds 
towards  Neuchatel,  become  visible  from  the  mountains  of  Unter- 
walden  to  Mont  Blanc. 

Beyond  stat.  Twann,  Fr.  Douanne  (Bar),  is  a  picturesque 
waterfall ;  this  is  the  best  point  for  visiting  the  Isle  of  St.  Peter 
(1568'),  situated  a  little  more  to  the  S.,  opposite  Ligerz  and 
Chavanne  (Kreuz) ,  two  villages ,  at  which  boats "  may  be  pro- 
cured for  the  purpose.  The  island,  which  is  3/4  M.  from  the 
N.W.  and  IV2  M.  from  the  S.W.  bank,  rises  perpendicularly 
from  the  lake  on  the  N.  and  W.  sides.  These  sides  are  shaded  by 
handsome  and  venerable  oaks,  and  present  a  most  picturesque 
aspect.  The  S.  side,  which  is  a  gradual  slope,  is  covered  with 
vineyards  and  orchards.  On  the  £.  side,  near  the  bank,  is  seen 
the  small  house  (inn)  which  was  occupied  by  Rousseau  for  two 
months  in  1765,  after  his  compulsory  departure  from  Motiers- 
Travers  (p.  170).  He  was  prohibited  by  the  government  of  Bern 
from  longer  enjoying  his  new  retreat.  The  room  of  the  great 
philosopher  is  preserved  in  the  same  state  as  at  the  time  of  his 
stay  on  the  island,  and  the  walls  are  as  usual  inscribed  with  the 
names  of  thousands  of  visitors.  It  is  to  the  somewhat  exaggerated 
description  of  Rousseau  that  the  Isle  of  St.  Peter  and  the  Lake 
of  Bienne  owe  their  reputation. 

Henveville  (1752'),  the  next  station  {Faucon^  or  Posie;  *Cou- 
fcmne  at  the  S.  end,  with  a  fine  view  oi  the  lake  and  Alps),  is 
a  smiling  little  town,  the  first  place  where  French  is  spoken. 
To  the  S.  of  the  town,  on  a  height,  are  seen  the  ruins  of  Schloas- 
berg,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  is  a  picturesque  cascade  of 
the  Beonbach.     Diligence  to  Freiburg  by  Ins,  see  p.  163. 

To  the  r.  of  Neuveville  rises  the  Chameral  (52^)  in  three  terraces, 
and  is  studded  on  the  S.  side  by  numerous  villages  and  verdant  meadows. 
The  view  from  the  summit  (ascent  S^-z  hrs.),  like  that  from  the  Weissen- 
stein  (p.  12),  embraces  a  large  part  of  Eastern  Switzerland,  the  Black 
Forest,  the  Vosges,  and  the  Alps.  Poor  inn  at  the  top.  The  return  may 
be  made  by  Bienne,  to  which  there  is  a  road  (iS^fz  M.).  The  view  is  more 
striking  when  the  ascent  is  made  on  the  N.  side  from  Courielary  (2382*), 
or   from    &t,  Im^r  (2687')   ip  the  valley  of  that  nopaor  —   Qorli^,   or 


SOLEURE.  4.  RouU.     11 

■Erlaeh  (Our$)y  is  situated  opposite  Neuveville  at  tbe  foot  of  one  of  the 
sandstone  spurs  of  the  Jolimont^  a  ridge  of  which  beneath  the  lake  con- 
nects the  mainland  with  the  island  of  St.  Peter. 

Near  stat.  Landeron  the  railway  quits  the  Lake  of  Bienne; 
the  little  town  lies  to  the  1.  Stat.  Cressier,  with  its  church  on 
the  summit  of  a  rock;  then  Comaux. 

On  emerging  from  a  tunnel,  St.  Blaise  is  reached,  where  the 
train  skirts  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  affords  a  view  of  the 
entire  Lake  of  Neuchatel,  the  N.  extremity  of  which  is  here 
reached,  exactly  opposite  to  the  distant  Mont  Blanc.  The  train 
runs  at  a  great  height  above  the  lake  (to  the  I.  below  is  the  road), 
and  reaches  the  station  of  Kenchfctel,  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the 
town,  see  p.  165.     Hence  to 

QhenevBy  see  R.  46. 

4.  Solenre  and  the  Weissenateiii. 

Hptelfl.  ^Kbomk,  B.  2i|t,  B.  li|4,  D.  3,  A.  i(<  fr. ;  Hiiusch  %  Thubm  \ 
^Basgezzi,  near  the  station,  also  a  restaurant  (beer). 

Telegraph  Office  at  the  post-office. 

Oarriaget  to  the  Weissensteln,  see  p.  12. 

Solenre  or  Soloihum  (1444'),  on  the  Aare^  a  dull  town  with 
7054  inhab.  (1291  Prot.),  is  the  capital  of  the  canton  of  Soleure 
and  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  B&le.  It  was  incorporated  in 
the  Confederation  in  1481 ;  with  Treves  it  claims  to  be  the  most 
ancient  town  on  this  side  of  the  Alps  (Hn  Celtia  nihil  t»i  Solo^ 
doTO  antiquius ,  unis  exeeptia  Treviria,  quarum  ego  dicta  soror',  see 
p.  11).  It  is  at  least  certain  that  the  Salodurum  of  the  Romans 
was  a  most  flourishing  settlement.  The  ramparts,  planted  with 
trees,  afford  an  agreeable  promenade.  The  St.  Ursiui-Xunster,  or 
cathedral  of  the  Bishopric  of  Bale,  was  built  in  1762 — 73  by 
the  architect  Pisconi  of  Ascona,  replacing  an  edifice  of  1050. 
A  flight  of  33  steps  leads  to  the  facade  between  two  fountains, 
one  of  which  is  adorned  with  a  statue  of  Moses  striking  the  rock, 
the  other  with  a  figure  of  Gideon  wringing  the  dew  from  the 
sheepskin.  Of  the  ten  large  altar-pieces,  executed  by  painters 
of  the  second  half  of  the  last  century,  none  merit  inspection. 

The  ^Arsenal,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  cathedral,  con- 
tains ancient  armour,  halberds,  pikes,  and  standards,  taken  in  the 
battles  of  the  Confederates  with  Austria,  Burgundy,  &c.  On  the 
second  story,  when  the  door  is  opened,  an  automaton  placed  as 
a  sentinel  presents  arms  and  turns  his  head.  In  the  upper  story, 
a  very  curious  group  represents  the  reconciliation  of  the  Con- 
federates effected  at  the  Diet  of  Stans  (p.  91)  by  Nicholas  von 
der  Fliie,  after  a  design  of  Disteli  (d.  1844). 

The  oldest  building  in  Soleure  is  the  Clook  Tower,  which  is 
said  to  have  been  erected  in  the  4th  cent.  B.  C. ,  but  probably 
dates  from  the  Merovingian  period.  The  figures  and  mechanism 
of  the  clock  are  similar  to  those  at  Bern  (p.  95). 


12    RouU  4.  WEISSENSTEIN. 

Under  the  portico  of  the  Hotel  de  ViUe^  as  well  as  in  the 
Public  Library  are  some  Roman  antiquities.  The  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  in  the  orphan-house  near  the  bridge,  is  rich 
in  minerals  and  fossils. 

In  the  Bieler  Strasse,  Nr.  5,  near  the  post-office,  the 
Illustrious  Polish  exile  Koscziusko  (d.  1811)  passed  the  last  years 
of  his  life.  His  heart  was  interred  at  Zuchwyl^  3/4  M.  S.E.  of 
Soleure,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Aare.  A  simple  monument, 
shaded  by  weeping  willows,  bears  this  inscription:  ''Viscera 
Thaddaei  Koscziusko'.  His  remains  rest  near  those  of  Sobieski 
and  Poniatowski  in  the  Cathedral  of  Cracow. 

At  Soleure  the  'Postheiri',  or  Swiss  Charivari,  is  published. 

The  *Wei88en8t6in  (4213'),  3  hrs.  to  the  N.  of  Soleure, 
is  one  of  the  most  frequented  mountains  in  Switzerland,  and 
well  merits  its  repute.  On  the  summit  an  *Hotel  with  'De- 
pendance'  (R.  Vj^-,  B.  1,  S.  2,  pension  4  fr.)  is  much  frequen- 
ted, and  also  employed  as  a  whey-cure  establishment.  On  Sat- 
urdays, in  fine  weather,  the  hotel  is  generally  crowded. 

The  prospect  is  less  picturesque  although  more  extensive  than  that 
from  the  Rigii  but  no  spot  commends  a  better  view  of  the  long  chain 
of  the  higher  Alps  from  the  Tyrol  to  Mont  Blanc.  To  the  N.E.  are  dis- 
tinguished the  Sentis,  the  Glarnisch,  with  the  Rigi  in  the  foreground,  the 
Todi  between  the  Rigi  and  Pilatus,  the  lofty  summit  of  Titlis,  and  the 
Sustenhorn^  then,  beyond  Soleure,  the  eye  reaches  to  the  Wetterhom  and 
Schreckhorn,  the  Finsteraarhorn ,  the  Eiger,  the  Monch,  the  Jungfrau,  the 
Bliimlisalp,  the  Doldeuhorn,  the  Altels,  Monte  Rosa,  and  still  farther  S.W. 
Mont  Blanc.  To  the  W.  glitter  the  lakes  of  Bienne,  Morat,  and  lleuchatel  \ 
the  Aare  winds  to  the  S.  through  the  fertile  plains  like  a  silver  thread,  and 
the  Grosse  Emme  flows  into  it  at  the  foot  or  the  mountain. 

The  *Bdthe  (4587'),  1/2  ^r-  to  the  E.  of  the  hotel,  com- 
mands a  still  more  extensive  view  towards  the  N.  and  E.,  which 
are  hidden  from  the  Weissenstein,  and  affords  a  good  survey  of 
the  picturesque  mountains  and  valleys  of  the  Jura.  A  stone  hut 
and  a  trigonometrical  signal  occupy  the  summit. 

To  the  W.  the  view  is  concealed  by  the  ^Hasenmatt  (4754'). 
This  last  point,  74  ^'-  ^^om  the  hotel,  presents  an  uninter- 
rupted panorama.  It  is  unnecessary  to  return  by  the  "Weissen- 
stein; leaving  the  summit  on  the  N.  side,  the  pedestrian  may 
descend  its  "W.  and  S.  slopes,  pass  by  Lommiswyly  and  regain 
Soleure,  or  the  less  distant  station  of  Selzach  (p.  10).  Miinster 
or  Court  in  the  Miinsterthal  (p.  7)  may  be  reached  in  2  hrs. 
from  the  Hasenmatt. 

From  the  Weissenstein  to  the  Miinsterthal,  see  p.  7. 

From  Soleure  to  the  Weissenstein,  —  1st.  Carriage  -  road  ^ 
passing  by  Langendorf  and  Oberdor/  (two-horse  carriage  for  3  pers.  20  fr., 
for  4  pers.  25  fr.,  driver's  fee  not  included^  if  the  carriage  remains  during 
the  night  on  the  top,  5  fr.  more;  an  omnibus  generally  runs  daily  be- 
tween Soleure  and  the  Weissenstein,  leaving  the  Couronne  at  5  p.  m.). 
2nd.  Foot-path  (guide  or  porter  for  luggage  5  fr.,  3  fr.  more  if  required 
to  pass  the  night  on  the  summit,  which  is  however  unnecessary,  as  por- 
ters may  always  be  procured  there),  passing  near  the  Einsiedelei  (hermitage), 
by  the    Stiegenlos  and  Rest.    By  both  these  ways  the  Weissenstein  may 


BURGDORF.  5.  Boute.     13 

eaaily  be  reached  in  3  hrs.  The  foot-path  is,  however,  much  to  be  pre- 
ferred: it  pasAcs  by  the  cathedral  of  St.  Ours,  through  the  imposing  Bale 
gate,  inclines  to  the  1.  in  the  direction  of  the  Villa  of  M.  Cartier^  where 
it  turns  to  the  r.,  then  to  the  1.  through  the  avenue,  at  the  extremity 
of  which  the  r.  must  be  again  taken  towards  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas, 
before  reaching  which,  near  *Bargetzfs  Brewery^  the  *St.  Yereaathal  is  en- 
tered to  the  1.  (1  H.  from  Soleure),  a  narrow,  cool  and  shady  ravine, 
i|2  M.  in  length.  The  path  to  the  1.,  at  the  commencement  of  the  gorge, 
leads  to  the  Wengistein  (see  below).  In  the  quarries  of  Portland  limestone, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  valley ,  valuable  fossils  are  frequently  found.  The 
blocks  of  gr^Fnite  which  are  seen  in  the  vicinity  on  the  slopes  of  the  moun- 
tain, have  been,  according  to  geologists,  brought  here  by  the  agency  of 
ancient  Alpine  glaciers  which  extended  aa  far  as  the  Jura.  This  gorge  is 
now  converted  into  a  promenade. 

At  the  "S.  extremity  of  the  ravine  is  the  *Hermitaf  e  of  St.  Yerena, 
to  the  r.  the  dwelling  of  the  hermit ;  to  the  1.  the  chapel,  which  is  reached 
by  a  broad  staircase ;  it  is  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  contains  a  rcpresentatira 
of  the  holy  sepulchre  with  life-size  figures.  The  traveller  may  now  return 
by  the  chapel  of  Ste.  Croix,  passing  near  some  extensive  marble  quarries ; 
after  traversing  the  forest,  the  Weng iateia  is  reached,  the  view  from  which 
is  similar  to  that  from  the  Weissenstein ,  though  on  a  smaller  scale.  A 
huge  granite  boulder  bears  a  Latin  inscription  recording  two  memorable 
events  in  the  history  of  Soleure. 

From  the  hermitage  to  the  base  of  the  Jura,  the  footpath  is  uninter- 
esting.   For  the  remainder  of  the  way  the  following  directions  will  suffice. 

Leaving  the  hermitage,  the  pedestrian  crosses  a  meadow  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  inn  on  the  Weissenstein  which  lies  before  him  •,  near  some 
cottages  the  high  road  is  crossed,  and  the  p^^b  ascends  the  hill,  crossing 
a  brook  and  leading  to  another  group  of  cottages.  Passing  between  the 
latter,  the  traveller  leaves  the  stone  cross  to  the  r.,  and  proceeds  towards 
the  nearest  pine-wood,  on  the  borders  of  which  he  crosses  a  brook,  and 
(not  to  the  r.)  reaches  a  sign-post.  A  little  higher  in  the  wood  a  second 
post  is  passed,  and  soon  after,  the  base  of  a  rugged  precipice  is  gained 
(1  hr.  from  the  hermitage).  The  path  is  precipitous,  but  well-shaded. 
An  ascent  of  *|4  hr.  brings  the  traveller  to  a  sharp  projection  of  the  rock, 
after  which  he  descends  to  the  1.,  reaching  the  Nesselboden-Alp  in  10  min., 
where  the  footpath  rejoins  the  road.  After  an  easy  ascent  of  ^'i  hr.  more, 
the  summit  of  the  Weissenstein  is  attained. 

6.  From  BAIe  to  Bern  by  Hersogenbuchiee. 

67 M.  Railway  in  31(2— 5  hrs.;  fares  11  fr.  10,  7  fr.  80,  5  fr.  60  c. 

From  BdU  to  Herzogenbuektee  see  pp.  B,  9.  Near  stat. 
Ritdxoyl  the  railway  enters  grassy  valleys,  enclosed  by  wooded 
slopes.  Then  stat.  Wynigen.  On  issuing  from  a  long  tunnel 
(transit  1  min.)  the  line  crosses  the  Orosse  Emme  and  reaches 
the  busy  town  of  Bnrgdorf  (1749Q,  French  Berthoud  (*H6tel 
Guggisberg,  near  the  station;  Stadihaus;  Bdt)^  picturesquely 
situated  on  an  eminence.  The  houses  are  for  the  most  part 
substantially  built,  and  have  arcades  as  at  Bern;  the  public 
edifices,  the  hospital,  the  schools,  the  Orphan  Asylum,  and  the 
public  walks  testify  to  the  opulence  and  good  taste  of  the  inhab- 
itants. In  the  castle  of  Burgdorf,  Pestalozzl  established  his 
celebrated  educational  institution  in  1798,  which  in  1804  was 
transferred  to  Miinchen-Buchsee  near  Hofwyl  (see  below),  and 
afterwards  in  the  same  year  to  Yverdon  (p.  172),  Beftutlful 
vleivs  from  the  church   and  castle  (Juugfrau,   M6nch,    !^iger), 


14     RouU  e.  SURSEfi. 

and  still  more  beautiful  from  the  Lueg  (2920'),  2  hrs.  to  the  £., 
which  commands  the  entire  chain  of  the  Alps. 

Stations  Lyssach,  Hindelhank.  Near  stat.  Sehonbuklj  to  the  r., 
stand  the  buildings  of  Hofwyl  with  their  numerous  windows,  in 
which  Herr  v.  Fellenberg  founded  his  agricultural  and  educa- 
tional establishments,  which  formerly  enjoyed  a  considerable 
reputation. 

Beyond  stat.  Zollikoferij  on  the  r.,  lies  BuetCj  formerly  con- 
nected with  the  above  establishments,  now  an  Agricultural  In- 
stitution. Farther  on,  a  glimpse  is  obtained  of  the  castle  of 
Reichenbach  to  the  r.,  opposite  to  the  N.  extremity  of  the  narrow 
peninsula  of  Enge  (p.  99),  and  of  the  bridge  of  Tiefenau  over 
the  Aare,  constructed  in  1851.  The  line  then  ascends  for  a  few 
minutes  until  it  reaches  the  WyUr  Feld  (drilling  ground),  whence, 
to  the  1.,  a  magnificent  *view  of  the  entire  chain  of  the  Bernese 
Alps  is  enjoyed;  farther  on,  to  the  r.,  is  a  new  suburb  inhabited 
by  workmen ,  after  passing  which  the  Aare  is  crossed  and  the 
station  of  Bern  reached.  The  ^Bridge  is  of  a  remarkable  and 
ingenious  construction,  and  furnished  with  two  roads,  the  upper 
for  railway,  the  lo'wer  for  ordinary  traffic. 
Bern,  see  p.  94. 

6.  From  B&Ie  to  Lncerne. 

60  M,  Railway  in  3»|2— 4»j«  hrs.;  fares  9  fr.  90,  6  fr.  95  c,  5  fr.  — 
The  trains  correspond  with  steamboats  from  Lucerne  to  Waggis,  Fliielen^ 
etc.  (see  pp.  54  and  66). 

From  Bdle  to  Aarburg,  see  pp.  8,  9.  Then  stat.  Zofingen 
(*Rd88li;  Ochsjf  a  busy  little  town.  Besides  a  collection  of  coins, 
the  library  contains  autograph  letters  of  Swiss  reformers,  and 
drawings  by  members  of  the  Swiss  society  of  artists,  founded 
in  the  year  1806,  which  formerly  met  annually  at  this  town, 
and  on  these  occasions  contributed  to  embellish  the  album  of 
the  library.  The  Zofingen  Union  of  Swiss  students  celebrates 
the  anniversary  of  its  foundation  here,  to  which  the  members 
resort  in  great  numbers  from  the  Swiss  uniycrsities.  On  the 
branches  of  the  fine  old  lime-trees  near  the  8chutM€nhau8  two 
ball-rooms  have  been  constructed.  Beyond  the  town  (^4  M.)  is 
an  ancient  Roman  BcUh  with  a  few  Roman  relics.  The  line 
next  passes  through  the  broad  Wiggernthal,  with  its  rich 
meadows.  On  an  eminence  near  stat.  Reiden  stands  an  ancient 
lodge  of  the  knights  of  Malta,  now  a  parsonage-house. 

Between  the  stations  of  Nebikon  and  Wauwyl  a  view  is  ob« 
tained  to  the  r.  of  the  Bernese  snow-mountains;  in  the  centre 
the  Jungfrau,  to  the  1.  the  Monch  and  Eiger,  to  the  r.  the 
Altels.  Beyond  stat.  Wauwyl,  to  the  r.,  lies  the  little  Mauenaee 
with  its  island  and  small  castle. 

Siunee  (Sonne;    Hirschjj   an    old  town,    over  the    gates  of 


AARAU.  7.  RouU,     1 5 

which  the  double  eagle  of  the  house  of  Hapsburg  is  still  en* 
throned.  The  Toton  Hall  reminds  one  of  the  Burgundian  style  of 
architecture.  Near  stat.  Notttpyl  the  line  approaches  the  Intake 
of  Sempaeh  (1663'),  6  M.  long,  2*/^  M.  broad,  abounding  in 
fish,  and  more  interesting  on  account  of  its  historical  associations 
than  its  scenery.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  on  a  hill  to  the 
r. ,  stands  the  castle  of  Wartensee,  with  its  angular  gables  and 
red  tower. 

At  the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  lake,  lies  the  small  town  of 
Sempaeh  (Kreuz;  Adler)^  near  which  Duke  Leopold  of  Austria 
was  signally  defeated,  July  8th,  1386,  by  the  Swiss  Confederates, 
owing    to    the    noble   self-sacrifice    of  Arnold    von  Winkelried. 

Thousands  of  his  knights  and  adherents  were  slain. 

A  Chapel  (2064')^  li|«  H.  from  Sempaeh,  marks  the  spot  where  Leopold, 
nephew  of  the  Duke  Leopold  who  had  been  conquered  by  the  Swiss  71 
years  before  at  Morgarten  (p.  300),  perished. 

The  line  intersects  plantations  of  firs.  A  yiew  is  obtained 
of  the  precipitous  clilTs  and  peaks  of  Pilatus;  to  the  1.  the  long 
ridge  of  the  Kigl.  Then  stat.  Rothehburg.  After  passing  stat. 
Emmenbrueke  the  line  skirts  the  bank  of  the  Reuss,  whose  eme- 
rald waters  emerge  from  the  lake  of  Lucerne,  passes  through  a 
tunnel  under  the  rock  of  Gibraltar  (p.  51),  and  reaches  by  a 
long   curve   the   Lucerne   station ,    on  the   1.  bank  of  the   lake. 

Liioeme»  see  p.  50. 

7.  From  B&le  to  Zurich  by  Olten. 

64  II.  Railway  in  Sija— 4i(s  hrs.  ^  fares  10  fr.  75,  7  fr.  55,  5  fr.  40  c. 
—  Railway  from  B&le  to  Zurich  by  Waldshut  and  Turgi,  see  p.  17. 

From  Bale  to  Olten  see  pp.  8,  9.  On  leaving  Olten  the  line 
runs  by  the  side  of  the  Aare  as  far  as  its  confluence  with  the 
Limmat  near  Brugg,  and  commands  many  pleasing  prospects.  To 
the  1.  the  wooded  chain  of  the  Jura  remains  in  view. 

Stat.  Ddnikon.  Opposite  stat.  Schonenwerth  stands  the  castle 
of  Oosgen  with  its  ruined  tower,  which  until  1801  was  the  seat 
of  the  authorities  of  Soleure.  The  line  passes  under  the  town 
of  Aarau  by  a  tunnel. 

Aaran  (1200')  ^Ochs,  R.  IV2,  B.  1,  D.  2V2fr.;  •Storch),  a 
manufacturing  town,  capital  of  the  Canton  of  Aargau,  with  5449 
inhab.  (904  Rom.  Cath.),  is  situated  on  the  Aare  (which  is  crossed 
by  a  suspension  bridge,  constructed  in  1850),  at  the  foot  of  the 
Jura  mountains,  here  partially  covered  with  vines.  New  Town 
Hall  and  Barracks.  The  historian  Heinrich  Zschokke  (b.  at  Mag- 
deburg  1771 ,  d.  1848)  formerly  resided  here.  The  cutlery 
manufactured  at  Aarau  is  highly  esteemed. 

From  8i»sach  to  Aarau  by  the  Seha/mattj  10  H.  By  diligence 
to  Oltingen  in  1*|4  hr.,  by  (l^js  M.)  Oelierkinden  (1371')  (K^Rossli),  a  manu- 
facturing village;  thence  through  a  picturesque  valley  to  the  Hanggietten 
waterfall-,  (liU  M.)  Tecknau  (1440') ;  to  (lijs  M.)  Wetulingen  (ISeO*)  a  steep 
aacent;  (lijs  M.)  (Htingen  (Oohs)w    The  path  which  ascends  the  (IV2  M.) 


16     Route  7.  BRUGG.       '  From  BdU 

^Sehafinatt  (25160  diverges  close  to  the  ^Ochs",  and  cannot  be  mistaken, 
being  provided  with  numerous  direction-posts.  The  summit  commands 
an  extensive  panorama  of  the  Jura  mountains  and  the  Alps,  as  far  as  the 
deep  valley  of  Rohr.  Here  turning  to  the  1.  the  upper  part  of  a  meadow 
is  reached,  at  the  foot  of  which  (li|2  M.  from  the  summit)  lies  a  chalet  and 
whey-cure  establishment.  The  spectator  here  has  a  prospect  of  the  lake 
of  Lucerne  with  its  environs,  the  Rigi,  Pilatus,  etc.  before  him,  bounded 
on  either  side  by  the  mountains  between  which  he  stands.  From  the 
chalet  to  Aarau  in  1  hr.  by  Ober-  and  Nieder-Erlimhach. 

To  the  N.  of  Aarau  rises  the  Wasserfiuh  (2851'),  and  to  the 
N.E.  the  GisUfluh  (2539'),  over  which  a  footpath  leads  from 
Aarau  to  the  Baths  of  Schinznach,  commanding  a  pleasing  view 
of  the  lakes  of  Hallwyl  and  Baldeck. 

On  the  1.  as  the  train  proceeds,  beyond  the  Aare,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Gislifluh ,  lies  Biberstein,  with  an  old  castle ,  formerly 
a  lodge  of  the  knights  of  St.  John.  Next  stat.  Rupperschwyl^ 
where  the  line  again  approaches  the  Aare.  To  the  r.  is  SefUosa 
Lenzburg.  Stat.  Wildegg^  with  a  castle  of  the  same  name  pictu- 
resquely situated  on  the  slope  of  the  Wiilpelsberg ,  possesses  a 
mineral  spring,  the  water  of  which  is  used  for  exportation  only. 
This  is  the  station  nearest  to  the  hydropathic  estab.  of  Bresten- 
berg,  situated  77*2  M.  to  the  S.  on  the  lake  of  Hallwyl  (proprie- 
tor Dr.  Erismann,  pension  5  fr.).  On  an  eminence  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Aare  stands  the  castle  of  Wildenstein.  Stat. 
Schinznach  lies  halfway  between  the  village  of  Schinznach  (1246'), 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Aare,  and  the  Baths  of  Bchinznacli,  close 
to  which  the  line  passes  (*Hotel  with  450  beds  and  200  baths ; 
table  d'hote  at  1;  omnibus  to  and  from  the  station,  IY2  M. 
distant ;  physicians  Dr.  Hemmann  and  Dr.  Amsler).  These  baths, 
also  called  the  Baths  of  Habsburg ,  are  highly  impregnated  with 
sulphur,  and  are  much  resorted  to  by  the  French. 

The  baths  lie  at  the  foot  of  the  Wiilpelsberg  (1686'),  on  the  summit  of 
which  (20  min.  walk)  stand  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  *Kababnrg,  the  cradle 
of  the  imperial  family  of  Austria,  erected  by  Count  Kadbod  von  Alten- 
burg  about  the  year  1020.  Only  the  lofty  walls  of  the  tower,  8'  in  thick- 
ness, now  remain.  The  adjoining  house  is  occupied  by  the  custodian.  The 
view  embraces  the  entire  domain  of  the  ancient  counts  of  Hapsbnrg,  and 
the  valleys  of  the  Aare,  the  Beuss,  and  the  Limmat,  bounded  on  the  S.  by 
the  snow-clad  Alps. 

Bragg  (1096'),   or  Bruck  (*Ro88li;   *Rothes  Baua),    a   small 

town,  formerly  the   seat  of  Budolph  of  Hapsburg.     A  pleasing 

view  of  the   antiquated  town   may   be  obtained  from  the  bridge 

which   spans  the  Aare,  here  only  70'  wide.   The  'Black  Tower' 

(Schwarze  Thurm)  dates  from  the  later  Roman  Empire,  and  was 

restored  in  the  early  part  of  the  15th  cent.     At  a  short  distance 

N.E.  of  the  town,  three  of  the  chief  rivers  of  Switzerland,  the 

Aare,  the  Reuss,  and  the  Limmat,  unite  their  streams,  and  fall 

into  the  Rhine  at  Koblenz  (p.  20),  9  M.  to  the  N. 

The  ancient  Abbey  of  K&nigafelden  (*|4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Brugg),  for- 
merly a  convent  of  Minorites,  was  founded  in  1310  by  the  Empress  Eliza- 
beth and  her  daughter,  Queen  Agnes  of  Hungary,  on  the  spot  where 
^Ibert  of  Austria^  husband  of  the  former,  had  been  murdered  two  years 


to  Zurich.  BADEN.  7.  R(mU.     17 

before  (1306)  by  John  of  Swabia  and  his  accompliGcs.  It  wan  neculariiied 
in  1528^  the  building  waa  converted  into  an  hospital,  and  afterwards  a 
lunatic  asylum.  Part  of  the  church  now  serves  as  a  magazine,  but  divine 
service  is  still  celebrated  in  the  choir.  The  ^stained-glass  windows,  of 
the  14th  century,  opposite  the  door,  represent  the  nuptials  uf  Agnes,  the 
foundress  of  the  abbey,  with  the  king  of  Hungary,  and  the  ceremony  of 
her  taking  the  veil.  The  numerous  portraits  of  knights  who  fell  at  S'em- 
pach  (p.  15)  are  of  the  last  century.  Duke  Leopold  himself  with  60  of 
these  warriors  is  here  interred.  The  doorkeeper,  who  shows  the  church 
(fee  ^|a  fr.),  offers  Roman  coins  and  Anticaglias  for  sale. 

On  the  tongue  of  land  formed  by  the  Reuss  and  the  Aare  stood  in 
ancient  times  the  considerable  Helvetian  town  of  Vindonittay  where 
daring  the  early  centuries  of  the  Christian  era  a  Roman  legion  and  the 
Rhsetian  cohorts  were  posted,  as  is  proved  by  inscriptions  still  extant. 
The  position  of  the  amphitheatre  is  easily  recognisable^  the  well  of  the 
convent  of  Konigsfelden  is  fed  to  this  day  by  a  subterranean  Roman  con- 
duit. The  town  was  destroyed  in  the  5th  cent.,  and  no  trace  now  remains 
of  its  extensive  edifices.  The  name  still  survives  in  that  of  the  village 
of  Windischy  ifz  M.  to  the  E.  of  Brugg.  Vindonissa  was  afterwards  the 
seat  of  a  bishop,  which  was  however  transferred  to  (Constance  in  1630. 

The  line  crosses  the  Reust  at  its  confluence  with  the  Aare, 
and  reaches  stat.  Turgi,  the  junction  where  the  Baden  line  to 
Waldshut  diverges  (see  p.  19).  The  Zurich  line  approaches  the 
Limmai  and  remains  on  its  1.  bank.  The  precipitous  banks  of 
the  river  are  clad  with  vines. 

Bad«B  (12530  (Balance;  Lion;  Ours,  R.  i%  B.  1,  D.  21/2, 

A.  ^2  ^'* }  ^^M  Bahnhof)  was  much  resorted  to  by  the  Romans 

in  early  times  for  the  sake  of  its  mineral  springs.  Its  ancient  name 

was  Aquae  Helvttiae.    In  the  time  of  Nero,  according  to  Tacitus 

(Hist.  I.  67),   it  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  town  (Hn  modum 

municipii  exstruetus  locus ,    amoeno  salubrium  aquarum  usu  fre- 

quens").    In  the  middle  ages  Baden  was  a  fortress,  and  frequently 

the  residence  of  the  princes  of  Hapsburg,  Albert  having  resided 

here  (1308)  before  his  assassination.     The  extensive  ruins  of  the 

fortress  Stein  %u  Baden  (15060,  destroyed  in  1712,    rise  above 

the  town;  the  grounds  command  a  fine  view. 

The  hot  springs  (960—1260  Fahr.)  (11510)  are  situated  in  a  valley  near 
the  railway  station,  *\4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town.  The  '  Stnall  Batfts " 
(£nuetb€lder)y  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Limmat  are  chiefly  frequented  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  neighbourhood;  the  ^Oreat  Baths ^  (Hotels:  Stadthofy  of 
the  first  class  \  ScMffy  LimmtUhofy  Schweiter  Ho/y  Ytrtnahofy  ^Freihofy  etc.), 
on  the  r.  bank)  are  patronised  by  the  more  fashionable  world.  The  Verena 
Bath  is  the  principal  public  establishment.  The  bridge  affords  the  best 
view  of  the  banks  of  the  river.  Baden  is  annually  visited  by  15,0(X)  patients 
and  travellers. 

The  line  now  passes  through  a  short  tunnel  under  the  Stein 
%u  Baden  (see  above).  On  the  1.  y  surrounded  by  the  Limmat, 
stand  the  extensive  buildings  and  gardens  of  the  former  Cister- 
cian Abbey  of  Wettingen  (12000,  "ow  a  seminary.  The  church 
contains  the  sarcophagus  of  the  Emperor  Albert  (p.  16),  whose 
body  reposed  in  it  for  15  months,  after  which  it  was  conveyed 
to  Speyer.  The  stained-glass  windows  are  of  the  16th  and  17th 
centuries,  the  carved  stalls  of  the  17th.  The  handsome  building 
to  the  1. ,  on  the  slope  of  the  Ldgemgebirg  (28280,  a  hill  with 

Bjboxkbr,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  2 


18     BduU  S,  RH£INF£LD£N. 

a  long  and  sharp  ridge,   formerly  contained  the  wine-press  of 
the  Abbey. 

The  line  now  passes  stat.  KUlwangeny  and  enters  the  canton 
of  Zurich  near  Dietikon  (1286')  (Lowe).  At  this  town  Massena 
made  his  celebrated  passage  of  the  Limmat,  24th  Sept.,  1799, 
after  which  he  repulsed  the  Russians  and  took  Zurich.  Next 
stations  Sehlieren  and  AlUtetten.  Near  Ziirich  the  long  ridge  of  the 
Uetli  with  its  inn  (p.  33)  becomes  visible  to  the  r.;  on  the  £. 
side  it  is  very  precipitous.  The  large  building  on  the  slope  to  the 
1.  is  the  Weid  (p.  29).  The  whole  line  from  Brugg  to  Ziirich 
(1^2  b^O  presents  a  series  of  interesting  landscapes,  especially 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ziirich,  where  the  distant  Alps  on  the 
r.,  and  the  Albisriicken,  terminating  towards  the  N.  in  the  Uetli, 
come  into  view.  The  heights  in  the  environs  of  Ziirich  are 
sprinkled  with  country-houses.  Before  entering  the  railway  sta- 
tion the  line  crosses  the  8ikl.     Ziiriehy  see  p.  28. 

8.  From  B&le  to  Zurich  by  Waldshut  and  Tnrgi. 

63M.  Railway  in  3—4  hrs. ;  fares  5  fl.,  3  fl.  21,  2  fl.  26  kr.  —  The 
seats  on  the  right  as  far  as  Turgi  afford  the  best  views. 

Baden  station,  see  p.  17.  The  line  traverses  the  narrow,  fruit- 
ful plain  between  the  S.  spurs  of  the  Black  Forest  and  the  valley 
of  the  Rhine,  which  is  here  of  considerable  depth.  The  first 
station  is  Orenzach,  where  an  excellent  wine,  hardly  inferior  to 
^Markgrafler'  is  produced ;  next  stat.  Wyklen.  At  stat.  Rheinfelden 
the  line  approaches  the  Rhine,  which  here  rushes  impetuously 
over  its  rocky  bed;  the  1.  bank  is  precipitous  and  well  wooded. 

Bheinfelden  (866')  (*Zum  Sehutxen;  *Krone),  a  Swiss  town 
on  the  1.  bank,  is  built  on  the  ruins  of  the  anciefnt  Roman 
station  Augusta  Rauracorum,  destroyed  by  barbarian  invaders.  It 
was  founded  by  Munatius  Plancus  (see  p.  1)  during  the  reign 
of  the  Emperor  Augustus,  and  originally  stood  on  the  site  of  the 
village  of  Basel- Augst,  3  M.  distant.  Rheinfelden  was  in  an- 
cient times  strongly  fortified,  and  was  one  of  the  frontier-forts 
of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire.  It  was  repeatedly  besieged,  and 
was  at  last  taken  and  razed  to  the  ground  by  the  French  in 
1744.  Since  1801  it  has  belonged  to  Switzerland.  The  cele- 
brated generals  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  Bernhard  von  Weimar 
and  Johann  von  Worth,  fought  many  battles  under  its  walls  du- 
ring the  spring  of  1638,  with  varying  fortunes.  The  foaming 
stream  here  dashes  over  the  rocks,  and  forms  the  so-called 
HoUenhaken  rapids.  Near  the  town  are  extensive  salt-works  and 
salt-baths,  which  attract  numerous  visitors  (*8ifuvt's  bath-estab., 
pension  4 — 6  fr.). 

The  line  Intersects  the  vineyards  and  gardens  of  Beuggen 
(909'),  formerly  a  lodge  of  the  Teutonic  order,  a  handsome  build- 
ing with  numerous  windows.     Since  1817  it  has  been  employed 


WALDSHUT.  8,  BohU.     19 

as  a  Seminary  and  Reformatory  for  children.  Brennet,  which  is 
next  reached,  is  the  station  for  the  *  Wehrastrcuse  (see  Bctdekeri 
Rhine) J  a  gorge  which  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  Via  Mala. 

Stat.  Bftelringen  (958')  (Bcui  or  Lowe),  a  considerable  town, 
possessing  an  old  abbey-church  with  two  towers.  The  abbey, 
subsequently  a  nunnery,  was  secularised  in  the  early  part  of 
the  present  century. 

Next  Stat.  Murg  (1027 'j  at  the  mouth  of  the  Murg,  and 
KUin-Lauffenburg,  opposite  to  which,  picturesquely  placed  on  the 
1.  bank,  stands  the  Swiss  town  of  Lanffaibiiig  (Post)^  with  its 
ancient  castle,  where  the  Rhine  dashes  impetuously  over  its 
narrow  and  rocky  bed.  Below  the  cataract  (the  ^Lauffen")^  of 
which  a  glimpse  is  obtained  from  the  train,  salmon  are  caught 
in  large  numbers. 

The  line  penetrates  the  mountain  by  a  tunnel,  and  reaches 
Stat.  LuUingen  (1036')  and  Hauemteiny  crossing  some  lofty  via- 
ducts. It  occasionally  approaches  the  river.  Then  stat.  Albbruek 
(1017')  and  Dogtm  (1040'). 

Waldthnt  (1122')  (ROf stock),  the  most  important  of  these 
small  towns  on  the  Rhine ,  is  situated  at  a  considerable  height 
above  the  river. 

About  10  M .  to  the  K.  of  Waldshut,  on  the  high  road  to  St.  Blasien 
(post-omnibus  daily),  is  situated  HAohenaohwaad  (Oekt)  (3314'),  the  highest 
village  in  the  Black  Forest,  whence  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  Alps  is 
obtained.    Comp.  Baedeker^s  Rhine. 

The  Swiss  Junction  Railway  crosses  the  Rhine  below  stat. 
Koblenz  (1033'),  near  the  influx  of  the  Aare,  passes  in  a  long 
curve  through  a  tunnel,  and  approaches  the  Aare  near  KUngnau. 
The  river  remains  visible  only  as  far  as  stat.  Dottingen.  After 
Siggenthal  is  passed,  the  Hahahurg,  which  stands  on  a  wooded 
hill  to  the  r.  (see  p.  16),  becomes  visible.  The  line  crosses 
the  Limmat  near  its  confluence  with  the  Aare.  At  Turgi  (p.  17) 
carriages  are  changed  for   those   of  the  North  Eastern  Railway. 

From  Turgi  to  Zurich,  see  R.  7. 


9.  From  Bftle  to  Schaffhausen  and  Constance. 

92  H.  Railway  to  Constance  in  5  hrs. ;  fares  to  Schaffhausen  3  fl.  54, 
2  fl.  39,  1  fl.  42  kr.  ^  to  Constance  5  fl.  57,  4  fl.  3,  2  fl.  36  kr.  Neuhausen  is 
the  station  for  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine  (comp.  R.  11).  Seats  on  the  right 
to  be  preferred.  —  Steamboat  from  Schaffhausen  to  Constance  in  about  4, 
returning  in  3  hrs.,  recommended  where  time  permits;  scenery  picturesque. 

From  Bale  to  Waldshut  see  pp.  18,  19.  Beyond  Waldshut 
the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel,  beyond  which  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  Alps  are  obtained.  To  the  r.  diverges  the  Swiss 
line  to  Turgi  (see  above).  Beyond  stat.  I'hiengen  (Krone)  the 
ancient  Klettgau  is  traversed.  Near  stat.  Oberlauchringen  the 
WiUaeh  is  crossed.    To  the  r.,  on  a  wooded  eminence,  the  castle 

2* 


20     Route  9.  SCHAFFHAUSEN.  From  Bdle 

of  Kiissenberg.  Next  stat.  Griessen^  Erxingen^  WUehingen  ^  the 
first  village  in  the  canton  of  Schaffhausen,  Neunkirch,  Beringen, 
and  Neuhausen  (*Schweizerhof;  Bellevue;  Hotel  Rheinfall  in  the 
village,  unpretending),  station  for  the  Falls  ofiheBhine  (p.  26). 

Sohaffhanflen  (1296')  (*Krone,  R.  2,  B.  11/4,  A.  8/4  fr. ; 
Rhein.  Hof  and  Riese^  at  the  station;  Hdtel  Heck,  Schaffhauser 
Hofj  Post,  Schiff,  Lowe),  the  capital  of  the  canton  of  that  name 
(pop.  10,303,  1666  Rom.  Cath.),  still  retains  the  picturesque 
mediaeval  aspect  of  a  Swabian  Imperial  toTvn,  and  is  best  sur- 
veyed from  the  village  of  Feuerthalen,  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  Rhine  (two  bridges). 

The  Cathedral,  a  basilica  in  the  early  Romanesque  style, 
founded  in  1104,  completed  in  1453,  formerly  an  abbey-church, 
is  remarkable  for  the  massiveness  of  its  construction.  Portions 
of  the  cloisters  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation ,  and  the  in- 
terior of  the  church  has  lately  been  restored  in  harmony  with  the 
original  style.  The  great  belL  cast  in  1486,  bears  the  inscrip- 
tion :  Vivos  voco,  mortuos  plango,  fulgura  frango,  which  suggested 
to  Schiller  the  idea  of  his  beautifuh  ^Lied  von  der  Olocke".  The 
Church  of  St.  John  dates  from  1120. 

The  castle  of  Munoth  (Munitio?),  erected  during  the  great 
famine  of  1564,  in  order  to  afford  support  to  the  indigent,  com- 
mands the  town.  It  consists  of  a  round  tower  of  several  storeys, 
which  with  the  adjoining  building  is  believed  to  date  from  the 
15th  cent.,  although  frequently  added  to  in  more  modern  times. 

The  Library  (Biirger-Bibliothek)  contains  nothing  worthy  of 
mention ,  except  a  collection  of  books  and  MSS.  of  the  eminent 
Swiss  historian  Johann  v.  Miiller  (b.  at  Schaffhausen  in  1752, 
d.  at  Cassel  in  1809),  to  whose  memory  his  fellow-citizens  have 
erected  a  monument  on  the  Vesenstaub  promenade;  the  terrace 
towards  the  Rhine  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  rapids  and  the 
Alps.  —  The  Imthumeum,  erected  and  presented  to  the  town 
by  M.  Imthurn,  a  citizen  of  Schaffhausen,  contains  a  handsome 
theatre,  concert-rooms,  etc. 

Beyond  Schaffhausen  the  line  turns  towards  the  N.E.  Stations 
HerbUngeHj  Thayingen,  Gotimadingen,  and  Singen  (*Krone),  the 
junction  for  Engen  and  Donaueschingen  (see  Baedeker's  Rhine,  or 
S.  Germanyy 

On  an  isolated  basaltic  rock,  2  M.  to  the  N.  W.  (1.)  of  Singen, 
rises  the  fortress  of  ''Hohentwiel  (2244'),  the  property  of  the  Wurtemberg 
government,  although  in  the  Bavarian  dominions.  It  was  bravely  and 
successfully  defended  by  the  Wurtemberg  commandant  in  the  Thirty  Years' 
War.  The  grand  ruins  command  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Tyrolese  and  Swiss 
Alps  as  far  as  Mont  Blanc.  At  the  farm  (refreshments),  half-way  up,  a 
ticket  of  admission  (12  kr.)  to  the  tower  must  be  procured. 

Stations  Bickelshausen  and  Radolphasell  (Post),  an  old  town 
on  the  Vntersee,  with  walls,  gates,  and  a  handsome  Gothic  church 
of  1436. 


to  Cofutance.  DI£SS£NHOFEN.  9.  RouU.     21 

In  the  middle  of  this  basin  of  the  Lake  of  Constance  lies  the  island  of 
Beieheaau,  in  the  dominions  of  Baden,  3*|4  H.  long,  i^jx  M.  wide,  connected 
with  the  £.  bank  by  an  embankment,  *U  H.  in  length.  The  Benedictine 
Abbey  erected  on  the  island  was  secularised  in  1799.  The  church ,  con- 
secrate as  early  as  806,  contains  the  remains  of  Charles  the  Fat,  the  great- 
grandson  of  Charlemagne,  who  was  dethroned  in  887.  The  building  now 
serves  as  parish  church  for  the  neighbouring  village  of  Mittelzell  or  Mtinster 
(Krone).  The  tower  and  nave  belong  to  the  original  structure.  The  church 
was  once  richly  endowed,  but  fell  to  decay  in  the  14th  cent.  With  the 
exception  of  a  few  relics  in  the  sacristy,  it  now  exhibits  few  traces  of  its 
great  antiquity. 

The  line  now  skirts  the  lake,    passing  stations  Marktlfingen, 

AUenshach^    and  Rtiehenau;    to  the  r.  the   island   of  Reichenau 

(see   abo^e).     The  train    then   crosses  the   Rhine,  and   stops   at 

Constance  (p.  23). 


Steamboat  Journey  from  SchafThausen  to  Constance.  The 
pier  is  above  the  bridge,  near  the  castle  of  Munoth,  and  opposite 
FeuerthaUn. 

r.    Paradiesy  formerly  a  nunnery. 

1.    Stat.  Biuingen,  a  Baden  village. 

r.   8t,  Catharinenthaly  a  handsome  nunnery. 

r.  Stat.  OieMonliofen  (1325')  (Adltr;  Lowe;  Hirsch),  the 
Roman  Ounodwrum^  where  a  skilful  passage  of  the  Rhine  was 
effeeted  on  1st  May,  1800,  by  the  French  army  under  Moreau, 
Lecourbe,  and  Vandamme  before  the  battle  of  Hohenlinden.  The 
river  is  crossed  here  by  a  narrow  wooden  bridge,  below  which  the 
steamer  lowers  its  funnel. 

r.  Rheinklingen,  Both  banks  are  wooded.  To  the  1.  Bibem; 
then  Hemmishofen  y  with  the  ruins  of  Wolkenstein  above  it.  To 
the  r.  Wagenhauaen. 

1.  Stat.  Stein  (Sehwan;  Krone),  a  picturesquely  situated  old 
town,  connected  with  the  village  of  Burg  (Wasserfels)  by  a  new 
wooden  bridge.  Several  houses,  such  as  the  Rothe  Ochs  and  the 
Weisse  Adler  adjoining  the  Kaufhaus,  are  still  adorned  with  rude 
old  frescoes.  The  suppressed  monastery  of  St.  George  contains  a 
hall  erected  in  1561,.  with  a  vaulted  wooden  ceiling  adorned  with 
arabesques.  The  old  chateau  of  Hoheriklingen  (1945'),  on  a  hill  to 
the  N.  of  the  town,  affords  an  admirable  view. 

Above  Stein  the  channel  of  the  Rhine  widens,  and  the  steamer 
enters  the  S.W.  arm  of  the  TTntersee.  To  the  r.  is  Eschenz;  on 
the  hill  above  it  the  chateau  of  Freudenfelt.  On  the  1.  stat. 
Oberttaadj  an  old  mansion*house  with  a  square  tower,  now  a  dyery ; 
beyond  it  the  suppressed  monastery  of  Oehningen.  The  neighbour- 
ing quarries  contain  numerous  fossils. 

r.  Stat.  Mammem^  a  hydropathic  establishment ;  in  the  woods, 
the  ruin  of  Neuherg;  then,  on  the  bank,  the  house  Glarisegg.  Oppo- 
site to  it,  Wangen  and  the  house  Marhach. 


22     Route  10.         LAKE  OF  CONSTANCE. 

r.  Stat.  Steckbom  (1312')  f*L6we ;  Krone),  with  a  castellated 
merchants'  hall,  now  restored.     Below  it,  the  nunnery  of  FeLdhach, 

r.  Stat.  Beflingen  (Schiff).  The  lake  expands,  and  the  island 
oi  R^htnctu  becomes  visible  (see  above).  Oh  the  hill  to  the  r., 
concealed  among  trees,  is  the  chateau  of  Eugensherg^  erected  by 
Eugene  Beauharnais,  vice-king  of  Italy,  and  now  the  property  of 
Count  Reichenbach-Lessonitz.  Farther  on,  above  the  charmingly 
situated  (r.)  Mannenbach^  stands  the  handsome  pinnacled  chateau 
oi  8aUn8tein\  then,  on  a  beautifully  wooded  hill,  w4renen6ery(1052'), 
once  the  residence  of  Queen  Hortense  (d.  1837),  and  occasionally 
visited  by  her  son  Napoleon  III.  (d.  1873).  In  the  middle  of  the 
lake  lies  the  island  of  Reichenau  (p.  21). 

r.  Stat.  Ermatingen^  prettily  situated  on  a  promontory ;  on  the 
hill  above  it,  the  chateau  of  Wolfsberg,  The  neighbouring  Schloss 
Hard,  wi^h  its  beautiful  garden,  is  not  visible. 

The  steamer  enters  the  narrow  arm  of  the  Rhine  which  connects 
the  Untersee  with  the  lake  of  Constance.  On  the  r.  Ootilieben 
(Krone),  with  a  chateau,  now  restored,  in  which  Huss  and  Jerome 
of  Prague  were  once  confined,  and  at  a  later  period  Pope  John  XXII. 
also  by  order  of  the  Council.  The  chateau  and  ruin  of  Castely 
on  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the  village,  command  a  charming  view. 
As  the  steamer  proceeds,  a  beautiful  retrospect  of  the  Untersee  is 
obtained,  with  the  Hohenhofen,  Hohenstoffeln,  and  other  peaks  of 
the  Hohgau  in  the  distance. 

The  banks  now  become  flat,  and  at  places  marshy.  The  steamer 
threads  its  way  among  reedy  shallows,  and  at  length  passes  under 
the  handsome  railway  bridge  of  Constance.  To  the  1.  lies  Peter- 
ftausen  with  its  extensive  barracks.  At  Oonitance  (p.  23)  pas- 
sengers are  landed  at  the  long  pier ,  at  the  E.  end  of  which  the 
lighthouse  stands. 

10.  From  Friedrichshafen  (Bonchach)  to  Coiutance. 

Lake  of  Constance. 

steamboat  to  Constance  3  times  daily  in  summer  (direct,  or  by 
Romanshom  or  Meersburg)  in  l^fs  to  2  hrs.  Between  the  chief  places  on 
the  lake,  Friedrichshafen^  Langenargen,  LindaUy  Bregem^  Rorsehaeh^  So- 
manxhortiy  Constance  (8chaffhausen)y  Meersburg ,  Ueberlingetty  Ludwigiha/eny 
the  steamboats  (about  24  in  number)  ply  at  least  once  daily,  and  on  the 
chief  routes  (Friedrichshafen-Constance  in  l*|s  hr.,  Friedrichshafen-Romans- 
hom  in  1  hr. ,  Friedrichshafen  -  Rorschach  in  li|4  hr. ,  Constance  -  Romans- 
horn  -  Rorschach  in  2  hrs.,  Constance  -  Lindau  in  i^\^  hr.),  three  or  four 
times  daily.  The  second  cabin  fare  is  ifard  less  than  the  first.  The  hours 
of  starting  are  frequently  altered.  On  Sundays  return  -  tickets  are  issued 
at  reduced  fares.  Comp.  Introd.  X.  with  regard  to  excursion-tickets.  The 
lake  of  Constance  being  neutral,  the  traveller  is  subjected  to  custom-house 
formalities  even  on  arriving  from  one  German  town  at  another,  for  in- 
stance from  Friedrichshafen  or  Lindau  at  Constance. 

The  Lake  of  Conatanoe  (1306')  (Ger.  Bodenseey  Lat.  Laew  Brigantinvt)^ 
an  immense  reservoir  of  the  Rhine,  207  sq.  H.  in  area,  is,  from  Bre- 
genz  to  the  influx  of  the  Sto<;kach,  42  M.  lon^,  about-8  |f .  wide,  ap(l  between 


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f 


FRISDRIGHSHAFEN.  10.  RouU.     23 

Friedrichshftfen  and  Arbon  SIS'  deep.  The  water  is  of  a  light  green  colour. 
The  lake  forms  the  boandary  of  fire  different  states :  Baden,  Wurtemberg, 
Bavaria,  Austria  (Vorarlberg),  and  Switserland  (St.  Gall  and  Thurgao).  — 
Meersburfftr  is  the  best  wine  grown  on  its  banks,  and  Felchen  and  trout 
the  best  fish  it  yields. 

The  N.  £.  bulks  are  in  general  flat,  but  are  bounded  on  the  S.  W.  by 
beautiful  wooded  hills,  which  gradually  decrease  in  height  towards  Con- 
stance. In  the  beauty  of  its  scenery  the  lake  of  Constance  cannot  vie  with 
its  other  Swiss  rivals ;  but  its  broad  expanse  of  water,  its  picturesque  banks, 
and  green  hills,  the  chain  of  the  Appenzell  Alps  in  the  distance,  the  snow- 
clad  Sentis  in  particular,  and  other  snow-peaks  of  the  Vorarlberg  Alps,  visible 
in  clear  weather,  combine  to  impress  the  traveller  who  visits  Switzerland 
for  the  first  time  with  the  most  pleasurable  sensations. 

Friedriehlhafen  (ISISQ  (*Deut8che8  Haus,  near  the  station,  R.  48, 
B.  30,  L.  and  A.  90  kr.  \  *H6trl  Bellevub  .  halfway  between  the  station 
and  the  quay,  B. -48,  B.  30,  D.  48,  A.  18  kr. ,  pension  2  fl.,  closed  in 
winter;  ^KdNio  vok  Wukttbmbebo,  1(4  M.  to  the  if.  of  the  station  \  Sonmb  ; 
^Krone,  with  a  garden  on  the  lake;  *Letithy'»IU»taurant)y  the  S.  terminus 
of  the  Wurtemberg  line ,  is  a  busy  place  in  summer.  Its  lake- 
baths  attract  many  visitors,  especially  from  Swabia,  and  it  boasts 
of  a  Curhaus  and  a  Curgarten  on  the  lake.  The  royal  8chlo»8 
contains  a  few  pictures  by  modern  Wurtemberg  artists,  Gegen- 
baur,  Pflug,  &c. ;  a  pavilion  in  the  garden ,  which  is  open  to 
the  public  (closed  for  a  few  hours  daily  during  the  residence  of 
the  royal  family),  commands  a  very  beautiful  view  of  the  lake 
and  the  Alps.     The  harbour  with  its  lighthouse,  1  M.  from  the 

railway  station,   presents  a  scene  of  brisk  traffic. 

Travellers  intending  to  continue  their  journey  by  steamboat  without 
stoppage  keep  their  seats  until  the  train  reaches  the  terminus  on  the  quay ; 
those  arriving  by  steamer  may  procure  tickets  immediately  on  landing,  and 
take  their  seats  in  the  train  at  once. 

In  rough  weather  the  steamboat  passenger  not  unfrequently 
experiences  the  horrors  of  sea  -  sickness.  Views  to  the  K.  and 
S.,  see  above.  On  the  N.  bank  lies  the  village  of  Immenataady 
with  the  chateaux  of  Herraherg  and  Kirchberg;  then  the  village 
of  Hagnau.  Farther  to  the  N.,  on  an  arm  of  the  lake  called  the 
Veberlinger  See,  stands  the  little  town  of  Meershurg ,  in  the  do- 
minions of  Baden,  with  an  ancient  and  modern  castle  and  se- 
minary, picturesquely  situated  on  a  height  above  the  lake. 
Beyond  it  lies  the  little  island  of  Mainau  (p.  25).  Farther 
N.  is  Vtbtrlingen ,  with  lake  and  mineral  -  water  baths.  The 
steamer  next  passes  the  promontory  which  separates  the  Ueber- 
linger  See  from  the  bay  of  Constance,  and  reaches  Constance, 
after  a  passage  of  l^s  ^'*    (Route  via  Komanshorn ,  see  p.  25.) 

Gonstanoe  (1335^.  *Hbcht  (P1.  a),  R.  l  fl.,  D.  1  fl.  46,  B.  36,  A.  24  kr. ; 
^Adlbb  (PI.  b),  similar  charges ;  ^Badischbb  Hof  (PI.  c).  —  Krone  (PI.  d) 
and  ScHiFF  (PI.  e),  second  class.  —  The  extensive  Swimming -Establishment 
in  the  lake  is  well  fitted  up.  —  At  Kretttlingen  (p.  25) ,  *(4  M.  from  the  8. 
gate,  is  the  *HdTBL  Helvetia,  pension  4—5  fr.  per  day. 

Cofufanec,  which  was  a  free  town  of  the  Empire  down  to 
1548,  and  after  the  Reformation  subject  to  Austria,  now  con- 
tains 10,052  (1200  Prot.)  inhab.,  although  it  once  numbered  as 
many  as  40,000,     It  Uqs  ^t  the  N.W.  epd  of  the   lake,   at  the 


24     RouU  10,  CONSTANCE.     From  Friedriehshafm 

efflux  of  the  Rhine.  The  episcopal  see,  over  which  87  bishops 
in  succession  held  jurisdiction,  was  deprived  of  its  temporalities 
in  1802,  aud  finally  'suppressed  in  1827.  By  the  treaty  of 
Pressburg  in  1805   Constance   was  adjudged  to  Baden. 

The  ^Cathedral  (PI.  5),  founded  in  1048,  was  rebuilt  in  its 
present  form  at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.  The  Gothic  tower 
was  erected  in  1850  — 1857;    the  open  spire  has   a  platform   on 

either  side,  commanding  a  charming  survey  of  the  town  and  lake. 

On  the  doors  of  the  principal  portal  are  *Bas- Reliefs  in  20  sections, 
representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ,  carved  in  oak  by  Sim.  Haider 
in  1470.  The  *  Choir  Stalls  with  grotesque  sculptures,  are  of  the  same 
date.  The  organ-loft,  richly  ornamented  in  the  Renaissance  style,  dates 
from  1680.  In  the  nave,  the  vaulting  of  which  is  borne  by  16  monolithic 
columns  (48'  high,  3'  thick),  sixteen  paces  from  the  principal  entrance,  is  a 
large  stone  slab,  a  white  spot  on  which  always  remains  dry  when  the 
rest  is  damp ,  and  is  pointed  out  as  the  place  where  Huss  stood  when 
the  Council,  on  6th  July,  1416,  sentenced  Ikim  to  be  burnt  at  the  stake. 
The  S.  chapel  adjoining  the  choir  contains  an  Entombment  in  high  re- 
lief^ in  the  N.  chapel  a  Death  of  the  Virgin,  with  painted  stone  figures 
life-size,  date  1400.  —  The  Treasury  contains  missals  embellished  with 
miniatures,  date  1426.  In  the  Chapter  Room  is  preserved  Vincent's  inter- 
esting collection  of  stained  glass  and  other  objects  of  art.  On  the  E.  side 
of  the  church  is  a  crypt,  containing  the  Chopel  of  the  Holy  Sqwlchre,  with 
a  representation  of  the  sepulchre  in  stone,  Qfy  high.  Adjoining  the  church 
on  the  N.,  two  sides  of  the  once  handsome  cloisters  are  still  standing.  The 
sacristan  shows  the  cathedral  (fee  24  kr.) ,  but  the  door  on  the  S.  "side  is 
always  open. 

The  Church  of  St.  Stephen  (PI.  7),  a  late  Gothic  building 
of  the  15th  cent.,  near  the  cathedral,  with  a  slender  tower, 
contains  some  good  sculptures  in  wood  and  stone.  Exterior 
modernised  in  bad  taste. 

Farther  to  the  S.,  in  a  small  Platz,  is  a  building  with  ar- 
cades (now  the  Cafi  Barbarosaa^  PI.  9)  styled  by  the  inscription 
Curia  Paeis,  in  which  the  Emperor  Frederick  I.  concluded  peace 
with  the  Lombard  towns  in  1183.  In  this  Platz  Frederick  YI., 
Burgrave  of  Nuremberg,  was  Invested  with  the  March  of  Bran- 
denburg by  Emp.  Sigismund  on  18th  April,  1417. 

The  Dominican  Convent  in  which  Hubs  was  confined,  situated 
on  an  island  in  the  lake  close  to  the  town,  is  now  a  manufactory. 
The  N.  end  of  the  island  is  traversed  by  the  railway  to  Schaff- 
hausen  and  Waldshut  (p.  21). 

The  Wessenberg-Haus  (PI.  17)  contains  a  collection  of  books, 
pictures,  and  engravings,  bequeathed  to  the  town  by  the  pro- 
prietor (d.  1860),  who  for  many  years  was  the  administrator  of 
the  bishopric.  The  Stadt-KanzUi^  or  Town  Hall  (PI.  14),  erected 
in  1503  in  the  Renaissance  style  and  recently  decorated  on  the 
exterior  with  frescoes  relating  to  the  history  of  Constance,  con- 
tains the  Municipal  Archives  in  the  lower  rooms,  comprising 
2800  documents  most  of  which  date  from  the  period  of  the  Re- 
formation. 

The  Merchants'  Hall  (PI.  1)  on  the  lake,  erected  in  1388, 
contains  the  spacious  Conciliums-Saaly  where  the   Great  Council 


to  Conaianee.  MAINAU.  10.  Route.     25 

held  its  meetings  (1414 — 1418),  decorated  with  modern  frescoes 
illustrative  of  the  history  of  the  town  (adm.  6  kr.).  Upstairs  a 
small  collection  of  Indian  and  Chinese  curiosities ,  the  property 
of  the  castellan  (9  kr.). 

The  Roagarten,  an  old  guild-house  in  the  Augustiner-Strasse, 
contains  a  recently  founded  collection  of  antiquities  and  natural 
history  specimens  (adm.  12  kr.). 

The  house  in  which  Huss  was  arrested,  the  second  to  the  r. 
of  the  Schnetzthor,  bears  his  effigy  in  stone,  dating  from  the 
16th  cent.  Soon  after  his  arrival  he  was  placed  in  confinement 
in  a  Franciscan  monastery.  The  spot  where  the  illustrious  re- 
former and  Jerome  of  Prague  suffered  martyrdom  is  indicated 
by  a  huge  mass  of  rock  with  inscriptions  in  a  field  to  the  W. 
of  the   suburb   of  BruU. 

The  towff  is  surrounded  with  promenades.  The  pier  com- 
mands a  pleasant  survey  of  the  town  and  lake. 

The  abbey  of  Kreuzlingen  (H6tel  Helvetia,  see  above),  situated 
in  the  Canton  of  Thurgau,  ^/^  M.  from  the  S.  gate,  is  now  a 
school.  The  church  contains  a  curious  carved  representation  of 
the  Passion,  with  about  1000  small  figures  executed  by  a  Tyro- 
lese  in  the  last  century;  also  a  mitre  adorned  with  pearls, 
presented  in  1414  by  Pope  John  XXII.  on  the  evening  before 
his  entry  into  Constance. 

In  the  N.  W.  arm  of  the  Lake  of  Constance  ( Ueberlinger  See,  p.  23), 
31/2  M.  from  Constance,  is  situated  the  beautiful  island  of  ^Kainai^C^/nnj, 
formerly  the  seat  of  a  lodge  of  the  Teutonic  order,  as  is  indicated  by  a  cross 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  castle.  The  island,  Vk  M.  in  circumference,  is  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  an  iron  bridge  650  paces  in  length.  Since  1863 
it  has  been  the  property  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Baden,  and  is  laid  out  in 
beautiful  pleasure-grounds.  One-horse  carr.  from  Constance  7,  two-horse 
12  fr.  \  boat  (a  pleasant  row  of  1  hr.)  6  fr.  and  gratuity. 

From  Rorachaeh  (p.  38)  to  Constance  (2  hrs.).  The 
steamboat  keeps  near  the  S.  bank,  passing  Horn  (p.  39)  and  Arbon 
(Engel;  Kreuz),  a  small  town  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Arbor 
Felix,  and  enters  the  harbour  of  Romanahorn  (p.  36).  The  con- 
spicuous building  rising  above  the  woods  on  the  N.  bank  is 
Heiligenberg  (1066'  above  the  lake),  a  beautiful  chateau  of  the 
Prince  of  Filrstenberg.  On  the  1.  bank  Sehloaa  Giittingen  is  next 
passed';  then  the  former  monastery  of  Munaterlingen,  now  a  hos- 
pital and  lunatic  asylum.  Constance  with  its  numerous  towers 
is  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  distance.  Near  the  town  is  per- 
ceived the  former  abbey  of  KreuzUngen  (see  above). 

The  Railway  from  Rorschach  to  Constance  (in  lijs  hr.  ^  4  fr. 
25,  3  fr.,  2  fr.  15  c.)  skirts  the  bank  of  the  lake,  affording  pleasant  glimpses 
of  its  glittering  surface.  Stations  Horn  (p.  39),  Arbon  (see  above),  Egnaeh^ 
Romanshom  (p.  36 ;  station  close  to  the  harbour) ;  then  Uttwyl^  Kessteyl^ 
Oiittingeny  AltnaUy  Miinsterlingen,  Kreuzlingen  (to  the  1.  the  abbey,  see  above), 
Constance  (p.  28). 


26 


11.  The  Falls  of  the  Rhine. 


Hotels.  On  the  hill  (1410')  on  the  r^M  bank ,  near  stet.  Keuhaueen, 
^ScuwEizEBHoF  and  *Bbllevue^  R.  from  3,  D.  3—4 ,  B.  li|2,  A.  1  fr.  v  om- 
nibuses to  and  from  the  steamboat-pier  at  SchaflThavsen,  lifs  fr.  —  At  Neu- 
hausen  Hotel  Rheinpall.  On  the  U^t  bank,  above  the  Falls,  *H6tbl  Schlobs 
Lavfbn  R.  2iJ2,  A.  sji  fr.  \  omnibus  to  ana  from  the  Dachsen  station  (p.  2B). 
^Hotel  WiTZiG.  unpretending,  R.  lifz,  B.  1,  D.  2>js,  L.  and  A.  'U  fr. ,  at 
Stat.  Dachsen,  sfi  M.  from  the  Falls. 

English  OhuTch  Service  at  the  Schweiserhof. 

The  station  for  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine  on  the  r.  bank  is  Nevhauun 
(p.  20)  on  the  Baden  Railway,  that  on  the  I.  bank  Dachsen  on  the  Swiss 
line.  Travellers  arriving  from  Germany,  and  not  pressed  for  time,  should 
spend  the  night  at  the  Schweizerhof  Hotel  (a  fine  view  of  the  Alps  in  the 
morning  in  clear  weather).  After  breakfast  descend  through  the  grounds 
to  the  Schlosschen  Wdrth^  cross  to  the  Fischetz^  ascend  to  Schloss  Laufen, 
and  return  to  the  hotel  by  the  Rheiti/all-BrUcke.  Those  who  arrive  at 
Schaffhausen  by  steamboat  from  Constance  are  also  recommended  to  pro- 
ceed by  an  hotel-omnibus  or  a  fiacre  to  Keuhausen.  Sdhloss  Laufen  is 
2  M.  from  Schaffhausen.  —  The  traveller  who  desires  to  combine  a  visit 
to  the  falls  with  a  journey  to  or  from  Switzerland  may  alight  at  stat. 
Dachsen  (allowing  his  heavier  luggage  io  go  on  to  its  destination  and 
await  his  arrival),  walk  or  drive  (omnibus  there  and  back  1  fr.)  to  (ijs  M.) 
Lau/en^  descend  through  the  grounds  to  the  Fischetz,  cross  to  Schlosschen 
Wdrth,  and  return  in  the  reverse  direction  of  that  above  indicated  ;  or 
descend  from  Worth  by  tlje  road  on  the  r.  bank  to  the  (Sji  H.)  village  of 
yohl^  cress  the  river  (ferry  10  c),  and  regain  stat.  Dachsen  in  a  few 
minutes.  —  All  the  points  of  view  should  if  possible  be  visited,  as  the 
traveller's  impression  of  the  Falls  will  otherwise  be  imperfect. 

The  **Falls  of  the  Shine,   which  in   respect  to   volume   of 

water  are  the  most  imposing  In  Europe,   locally  known  as  the 

^L&ufeli',  are  precipitated  in  three  leaps  over  a  ridge  of  unequal 

height.    The   breadth  of  the  Rhine  above  the  Falls  is  380';  their 

height  is  about  50'  on  the  r.  bank,  and  64'  on  the  1.;    and  if 

the  rapids,  the    whirlpools,   and  the  falls   a  few  hundred  paces 

farther  up  he  taken  into  account,  the  total  height  of  the  cataract 

may  be  estimated  at  nearly  100'  (level   of  the  Rhine  below  the 

falls  1181'). 

Of  the  four  limestone -rocks  which  rise  from  the  cataract,  one  third 
of  that  nearest  the  1.  bank  has  been  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  wa- 
ter. In  1848,  when  the  river  was  unusually  low,  and  part  of  its  bed  un- 
covered ,  an  iron  rod  was  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  channel.  When 
viewed  from  below,  the  rocks  seem  to  tremble  and  waver.  From  the 
chateau  of  Worth  (see  below)  visitors  are  conveyed  by  boat  to  the  central 
rock,  from  which  the  Falls  are  surveyed  to  the  best  advantage  (small 
pavilion  on  the  top).  The  passage  which  only  occupies  a  few  minutes,  is 
unattended  with  danger,  though  the  agitated  waters  cause  considerable 
motion  to  the  boat.  Fare  for  1—3  pers.  3  fr.  and  fee\  each  additional 
person  1  fr.  These  rocks  have  undergone  no  change  within  the  memory 
of  man,  but  a  decrease  in  the  volume  of  water  has  been  observed  of  late 
years.  It. is  remarkable  that  no  mention  of  this  cataract  is  made  by 
ancient  writers,  from  which  it  is  inferred  by  some  that  the  Rhine  may 
have  changed  its  course,  and  that  the  present  fall  dates  from  the  middle 
ages  only  (^. 

In  June  and  July  the  volume  of  the  water  is  greatly  increased 
by  the  melting  of  the  snow.  Before  8  a.m.  and  after  3  p.m.  innu- 
merable rainbows  are  formed  hy  the  sunshine  in  the  clouds  of 
silvery  spray.     The  spectacle  is  also  very  Impressive  hy  moonlight, 


FALLS  OF  THE  RHINE.       11.  JBoufe.     27 

and  a  night  should  therefore  be  spent  at  the  Falls  or  at  Dachsen  in 
preference  to  SehafFhaasen.  The  Falls  are  frequently  illuminated 
in  summer. 

*SeliIoM  Lanfan  (1361 '^j  picturesquely  situated  on  a  wooded 
rock  on  the  1.  hank,  immediately  ahoTe  the  Falls,  affords  the  most 
advantageous  survey  of  the  imposing  scene.  The  proprietor  charges 
1  fr.  for  admission  to  the  grounds  (no  other  fees).  The  balcony  and 
a  jutting  pavilion  with  stained  glass  windows  both  command  a  good 
survey  of  the  Falls,  the  bridge,  and  the  environs. 

Footpaths  descend  through  the  grounds  to  an  iron  *PaviUony  an 
admirable  point  of  view ;  then  to  the  wooden  ^Kanzli^  and  finally  to 
the  *Fi8chett,  an  iron  platform  projecting  over  the  foaming  abyss. 
A  stupendous  spectacle  is  witnessed  here.  The  vast  emerald-green 
volume  of  water,  descending  with  a  roar  like  thunder,  appears  to 
threaten  to  overwhelm  the  spectator,  and  constantly  bedews  him 
with  its  spray.  This  immediate  proximity  alone  is  calculated  to 
fulfil  and  even  surpass  the  expectations  of  the  visitor.  —  Ferry  to 
Schlosschen  Worth  (see  below)  30  c. 

After  having  surveyed  the  falls  from  the  different  points  of 
view  at  the  castle  of  Laufen,  the  visitor  on  leaving  should  de- 
scend to  the  1.,  at  the  sign-post  indicating  the  way  to  Schloss 
Laufen,  to  the  ^Bridge  across  the  falls  (RhdnfaHhrucke),  over 
which  the  railway  from  Schaffhausen  to  Ziirich  (see  below)  passes. 
The  arches  vary  in  width  of  span ,  in  consequence  of  the  diffi- 
culty of  obtaining  a  foundation  for  the  piers.  The  upper  side 
of  the  bridge  is  provided  with  a  foot-way,  which  affords  a  re- 
markable view  of  the  rocky  bed  of  the  river,  the  rapids,  and  the 
falls  below. 

On  the  r.  bank  a  good  footpath,  leading  to  the  1.  from  the 
bridge,  ascends  at  a  considerable  height  above  the  Rhine  (fine 
view  of  the  falls),  to  an  extensive  railway  -  carriage  manufactory 
near  Neuhausen  (p.  20).  Here  descend  by  the  steps  on  the  I. 
to  the  parapet  near  the  sluices,  whence  another  good  view  of 
the  falls  is  obtained.  Then  descend  to  the  r.  by  the  road  past 
the  iron-works,  and  follow  the  path  by  the  Rhine  (a  bench  by  the 
path  is  another  picturesque  *point  of  view)  to  Schlosschen  Worth 
(Restaurant;  camera  obscura  75  cent.),  a  square  tower  on  an 
island  opposite  the  falls,  connected  with  the  r.  bank  by  a  bridge. 
Then  ascend  to  the  terrace  of  the  Schweizerhof  (at  stat.  Neu- 
hausen,  p.  26),  230'  above  the  water  on  the  r.  bank,  commanding 
a  view  of  the  entire  chain  of  the  Alps,  together  with  the  Falls  and 
their  environs,  and  the  Bernese  Alps  to  the  r. 


28 


12,  From  Schaffhausen  to  Ziiridi. 


Comp.  Maps,  pp.  22^  40. 

Railteay  in  2  hrs.  (to  Winterthur  1  hr.,  to  Zurich  1  hr.)'  Fares  6  fr., 
4  fr.  aO  c,  3  fr.    View  of  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine  on  the  right. 

The  line  skirts  the  lower  end  of  the  Vesenstaub  (p.  20)  pro- 
menade, and  passes  under  the  chateau  of  Chartottenfda^  built  by 
a  wealthy  clockmaker  of  Schaffhausen.  On  the  r. ,  considerably 
higher  than  the  Zurich  line,  is  the  railway  to  Waldshut  (R.  9), 
which  passes  through  a  tunnel,  564'  long,  under  Oharlottenfels. 
The  train  to  Zurich,  immediately  after  passing  through  the  long 
cutting,  crosses  the  Bridge  over  the  Falls  (see  above),  630'  long,  and 
supported  by  nine  arches  of  from  42'  to  65'  span.  A  glimpse 
is  obtained  of  the  falls  to  the  r.,  and  the  tunnel,  213'  long, 
under  Schloss  Laufen  (p.  27)  is  then  entered.  On  emerging, 
the  train  commands  another  beautiful,  but  momentary  retrospect 
of  the  falls. 

The  train  stops  at  stat.  Daohsen  (1296')  (*H6tel  Witzig), 
Y2  M.  from  Schloss  Laufen,  beyond  which  pleasing  views  present 
themselves  at  intervals  of  the  bluish-green  Rhine,  as  it  flows  far 
below  in  its  narrow  channel,  enclosed  by  lofty  wooded  banks. 

The  following  stat.  is  MarthaUn.  The  valley  of  Andelflngen 
soon  begins  to  open;  and  the  handsome  village  is  visible  in  the 
distance  to  the  r. ,  on  the  precipitous  banks  of  the  Thur.  The 
train  approaches  it  by  a  wide  curve,  and  crosses  the  Thur  above 
the  village,  by  a  suspension  bridge,  115'  long.  It  then  skirts 
the  river  for  a  short  distance  and  arrives  at  Andelflngen  on  the 
S.  side. 

The  remainder  of  the  route  to  Winterthur  is  less  interesting, 
although  the  scenery  is  still  picturesque.  The  next  stations  are 
Henggari  and  Hettlingeri.  The  vine-clad  slopes  of  Neftenbach,  to 
the  r.,  produce  the  best  wines  of  N.  Switzerland;  among  others 
OalUrMpitz  is  particularly  esteemed.  On  approaching  Winterthur 
the  broad  valley  of  the  Toss  is  entered. 

Winterthur,  and  thence  to  Zurich^  see  p.  36. 

13.  Ziirich  and  the  Uetliberg.  ^ 

Hotels.  ^ Hotel  Baub  au  Lac  (PI.  a),  charmingly  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  lake,  well  conducted,  with  garden,  baths,  and  reading-room 
adjoining,  R.  3—6  fr.,  B.  lija,  D.  at  2  o'cl.  4t|2,  at  6  o'cl.  6,  A.  1  fr. ;  Pen- 
sion 8  fr.  and  upwards.  *  Bbllkvue  (PI.  b)  on  the  lake,  opposite  the  Bau- 
schanze,  similar  charges,  also  commanding  a  fine  view.  "^HStbl  Ziesino- 
Baur  (PI.  c),  in  the  town,  more  moderate ;  ^Schwbrt  (PI.  d),  by  the  lower 
bridge,  view  of  the  Alps,  B.  2—3,  B.  1— 1>U,  A.  »|4,  L.  1/2  fr.  5  Zcricher  Hop 
(PI.  e),  R.  2,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.  •,  Storgh  (Pi.  f),  R.  from  2,  B.  1,  A.  1(2  fr.; 
^Falke  (PI.  g),  between  the  lake  and  the  post-office,  R.  2,  B.  i»(4,  A.  >J2  fr.  \ 
'^ScuwEizERHOF  (PI.  i),  ou  the  r.  bank  of  the  Limmat  below  the  second 
bridge,  R.  2,  D.  3  fr.  \  Concordia,  on  the  Limmat,  not  far  from  the  station  \ 
ScHELLER  and  RosBLi  near  the  Ziiricher  Hof;  Schwaezer  Adler  and 
"Sonne,  for  moderate  requirements.  Visitors  are  received  at  all  these 
hotels  in  spring  and  autumn   en  pension.  —  '^Pension  I^fptun  at  Seefeld, 


ZURICH.  13.  RouU.     29 

near  Zurich,  5*|2 — 6  fr.  per  day^  near  it,  *Wbi88B8  Khbvz,  R.  liji^  B.  1, 
L.  iJ2  fr. ;  ^HoTEL  et  Pbmsioh  Ctgnb  (Pi.  h)  on  the  Miihlenbach ,  well  si- 
tuated, pleasant  garden,  6* (at  fr.  a  day.  —  Bubgli  Tbebace  and  Weid  see 
below.  KiNDERKKECHT,  at  Fluutem,  U\t  M.  £.  of  Zurich;  Kabolinembubg, 
s/4li.  higher.  Palmhof,  at  Oberstraas,  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Polytech- 
nic, with  Tiew  of  the  valley  of  the  Limmat. 

The  inn  on  the  ^Uetlibbbg  ,  a  charming  point  of  view ,  2  hra.  from 
Zurich,  also  affords  tolerable  accommodation,  K.  2,  B.  lijz,  A  1  fr. 

Kestaoraata  and  Gafea.  At  the  hotels  Bamr^  Bellevue^  and  ZUrichtr- 
ho/.  *8afraH,  opposite  theRathhaus;  KronenhaUe^  above  the  Ziiricherhof ; 
Ca/i  LitUraire,  adjoining  the  Storch,  table  d'hotie  at  12.  90;  Bavgarterty 
see  below;  Rail.  Restaurant;  Ca/i  du  Xord  and  Altes  SehHtzenhau*  ^  near 
the  station.  —  lees  at  /^pr^nfflCt  near  the  Baur  Hdtel  and  post-office.  — 
Beer :  Orsini ,  near  the  H6tel  Baur  au  Lac ;  Brunner ,  in  the  Frau  -  Miin- 
sterplatz ;  Oambrinusy  Schofelgasse ;  at  the  Bollereiy  on  the  quay ;  Strohho/^ 
at  the  back  of  St.  Peter's ;  Tonhalle  (PI.  20) ,  etc.  —  Valtellina  Wine  at 
the  Veltlinerhalle. 

Pointa  of  View.  In  the  town,  the  ^Bauaarten,  the  property  of  a  club, 
strangers  readily  admitted.  Tonhalle  (PI.  20)  on  the  lake,  with  an  open 
pavilion  and  '^restaurant ,  where  concerts  are  frequently  given.  ^Oarden 
(restaurant)  at  Oberstrass,  with  open-air  theatre.  The  "Biirgli  Terrace  (with 
Pension)  ^2  M.  on  the  road  to  the  Uetliberg;  the  *Weid  on  the  Kaferberg, 
3H.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town  (pension  i—1  fr.);  the  ^Uetliberg  (p.  33), 
2  hrs.  walk  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town. 

Kewspapera  at  the  Museum  (p.  29);  strangers  introduced  by  a  member 
are  admitted  gratis  for  1  month,  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m. 

Batha  in  the  lake  (for  ladies  also)  near  the  Bauschanze,  admirably 
fitted  up ;  bath  15  c,  towel  etc.  20  c,  private  room  40  c.  Another  estab. 
at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  on  the  £.  bank  of  the  lake.  Warm  Baths 
(vapour,  etc.)  at  *  8tocter''s  in  the  Hiihlgarten. 

Rowing-boats  40  c.  per  hour ;  lai^e  boat  with  awning  1  fr. ;  each  rower 
60  c.  per  hour ;  ferry  to  steamer  10  c,  luggage  10  c. 

Menn'^s  Zooplastic  Museum^  Stadelhofs-Platz  (1  fr.),  fine  groups  of  stuffed 
animals.  Summer  Theatre  at  Oberstrass,  see  above.  —  Panorama  of  the 
Rigi  adjoiningi  the  Tonhalle,  see  p.  31. 

Steamboats  (see  p.  40)  start  from  the  Bauschanze  (p.  33),  the  screw- 
steamers  from  the  Bellevue  Hotel.  These  smaller  vessels  ply  at  lower  fares 
along  the  S.  bank  only,  and  do  not  proceed  beyond  Ricbterswyl. 

Railway  Station  (p.  32)  at  the  lower  (N.)  end  of  the  town,  s(4  M.  from 
the  steamboat  quay.  Omnibus  50 ,  each  box  20  c. ;  other  omnibuses  run 
every  '{^  hr.  to  the  ^eefeld  and  Tiefenbrunnen,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  23)  opposite  the  Hotel  Baur;  branch- 
office  by  the  new  museum. 

Cabs.  To  or  from  the  station  1 — 2  pers.  80  c,  3—4  pers.  1  fr.  20  c, 
each  box  20  c. ,  in  the  evening  20  c.  extra  for  the  lamps ;  from  9  p.  m.  to 
6  a.  m.  double  fares.  Cabs  with  fixed  charges  stand  by  the  Hdtel  Baur, 
the  Bellevue,  *c. ;  to  Weid  1 — 2  pers.  8,  3—4  pers.  A^js  fr.  —  For  a  two- 
horse  carriage  the  fare  is  the  same  as  for  3—4  persons  with  one  horse. 

Snglish  Chttrch  Senrice  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Anna  (p.  30). 

Principal  Attractions.  When  time  is  limited,  proceed  from  the  railway- 
station  through  the  Bahnhofs-Strasse  to  the  Hotel  Baur  au  Lac,  visit  the 
^Bauschanze,  cross  the  M-UnsterbrUcle  and  ascend  to  the  *Hohe  Promenade^ 
see  the  Polytechnic.^  and  return  by  the  Bahnho/s  BHkke  to  the  station  (a  walk 
of  lija  hr.  in  all). 

2flrieh  (1351 Q,  the  Roman  Turicum,  the  capital  of  the  Canton, 
with  21,199  inhab.  (3377  Rom.  Oath.),  or,  including  the  suburbs, 
45,000,  is  situated  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  on  the  banks  of 
the  green  and  rapid  Limmat  which  divides  it  into  two  distinct 
parts,  the  ^Grosse  Stadi'  on  the  r.,  and  the  ^Kleine*  on  the  1. 
bank.     On  the  W.   side  flows  the  8ihl  which   unites  with  the 


30     R<mU  13.  ZUBICB.  Toion  Libfory, 

Limmat  immediately  below  the  town.  Zarich  is  the  most  flour- 
ishing manufacturing  Swiss  town  (silk  and  cotton  manufactories; 
there  are  10,0()0  silk -looms  in  this  canton),  and  at  the  same 
time  the  literary  centre  of  German  Switzerland.  Its  schools  enjoy 
a  high  reputation,  and  have  for  many  centuries  sent  forth  men 
of  distinction,  such  as  Bodmer,  Sulzer.  Hettinger,  Orelli,  Oessner, 
Layater,  Hesa,  Pestalozzi,  Hegner,  Horner,  Henry  Hirzel,  Henry 
Meyer  the  friend  of  Goethe,  and  many  others.  In  1832  a  CoUege 
was  founded  (200  students,  half  of  whom  are  medical),  and  in 
1855  a  Polyteehruc  School,  both  under  the  direction  of  an  excellent 
staff  of  professors. 

The  Situation  of  Zurich  is  unrivalled.  Both  banks  of  the  lake  are 
enlivened  with  villages,  orchards,  and  vineyards,  scattered  over  a  highly 
cultivated  country ;  in  the  background  rise  the  snow-capped  Alps  \  to  the  1. 
is  the  ridge  of  the  Ol&miscft^  then  the  perpendicular  sides  of  the  Reiselt- 
stoek  (SODS'),  near  it  on  the  r.  the  JYantutock^  farther  on,  the  Drusberg 
(like  a  winding  staircase);  next  the  snow-clad  Bi/ertenatock  and  TSdi;  in 
front  the  Claridetiy  the  most  W.  point  of  which  is  the  Kammliitock  (10,607')  \ 
between  this  and  the  double-peaked  Scheerhom  is  imbedded  a  vast  glacier ; 
then  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Seh&chetithal  the  Rois- Stock-chain  with  grotesquely- 
formed  horns;  the  broad  WindgelU;  between  this  and  the  Scheerhorn  ap- 
pears the  dark  summit  of  the  Mythen  near  Schwys;  above  the  valley,  be- 
tween the  Kaiterstock  and  Rostber^y  towers  the  pointed  pyramid  of  the 
BiHstenstock  near  Amstag  on  the  St.  Gfotthard-route  \  then,  if  the  spectator 
occupies  a  commanding  position,  the  Blackenttock  and  Uri-Rothstocky  and  a 
portion  of  the  snow-mountains  of  the  Engelberger  Thai ,  appear  above  the 
Albis.  To  the  right  of  the  Albis  is  the  Uetliberg-,  the  most  N.  point  of 
this  range,  with  the  hotel  on  its  summit. 

As  the  beauty  of  its  situation  is  the  great  attraction  of  Zurich,  a  plan 
is  here  proposed,  which  will  enable  the  traveller  to  visit  the  finest  points 
and  chief  objects  of  interest  in  the  shortest  possible  time,  leaving  the 
selection  to  his  discretion.  The  Oross  -  MOntter  (or  Cathedral)  with  its 
cloisters  (see  below),  the  Town  Library  (see  below),  and  the  Armoury 
in  the  old  arsenal  (p.  33)  are  near  the  hotels,  and  the  only  objects  of  par- 
ticular interest  in  the  town.  No  one  should  omit  to  visit  the  Terrace  in 
front  of  the  Polytechnic,  the  Hohe  Promenade^  the  Katz^  the  Bauschame^ 
and  the  grounds  near  tlie  bathing  houses  on  the  promenade  by  the  lake, 
as  the  views  from  these  several  points  are  charming. 

As  a  siafiing  Tpoint  may  be  taken  the  four -arched  MuMtef- 
Bridge  (the  highest),  which  commands  a  pleasant  view  of  the 
lake  and  Alps.  Close  to  the  bridge  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Limmat,  is  an  open  vestibule  leading  to  the  Town  library 
(PI.  3).  Admission  obtained  on  application  at  the  shop  on  the  r. 
This  building  was  formerly  a  church  (1479),  known  as  the 
Wasaetkifehe,  firom  its  having  once  stood  in  the  water.  In  1860  it 
was  considerably  enlarged,  and  now  contains  many  valuable  MSS. 

A  letter  of  Xwingli  to  his  wife;  Zwingli's  Greek  Bible  with  Hebrew 
annotations  in  his  own  handwriting;  an  autograph  letter  of  Henry  IV.  of 
France;  three  autograph  Latin  letters  of  the  unfortunate  Lady  Jane  Orey 
to  Antistes  Bullinger;  a  letter  of  Frederick  the  Oreat^  dated  1784,  to 
Professor  Hiiller;  Portrait  of  the  worthies  of  Zurich,  amongst  others  of 
Zwingli;  a  marble  bust  of  Lavater  by  Dannecker;  a  marble  bust  of 
Pestalozzi  by  Imhof ;  eight  panes  of  stained  glass  of  the  year  1506.  Large 
'^Relief-maps  of  a  portion  of  Switzerland,  and  of  the  Engelberger  Thai  on 
a  much  larger  scale,  both  executed  with  great  care  and  accuracy,  are  worthy 
of  note.    (Fee  1  fr.,  for  a  party  2  fr.) 


Town  MaU,  ZURICH.  13.  R(mU.      3t 

The  same  building  contains  the  Antiquiti€$  belon^ng  to  the 
Antiquarian  Society.  The  principal  object  of  interest  is  a  col- 
lection of  relics  of  the  ancient  Swiss  lake- villages. 

The  steps  opposite  to  the  yestibule  in  front  of  the  Library, 
lead  to  the  ChroM-Xftnttflr  (PI.  18),  erected  in  the  unadorned 
Romanesque  style  of  the  11th  to  the  13th  cent.  In  the  year 
1779  the  towers  were  crowned  with  helmet-shaped  ornaments 
surmounted  by  gilded  flowers.  On  the  W.  tower  Charlemagne  is 
seated  with  gilded  crown  and  sword,  in  recognition  of  donations 
made  by  him  to  the  church.  The  choir  contains  three  large 
stained-glass  windows  representing  Christ,  St.  Petor,  and  St.  Paul. 

On  the  site  of  the  ancient  residence  of  the  canons  now  stands 
a  school  (ToehUrsehuU)  f  the  ^doiitert  within  the  precincts  of 
which  date  from  the  commencement  of  the  13th  cent.  They 
have  been  restored,  and  the  fountain  adorned  with  a  statue  of 
Charlemagne. 

The  Town  Hall  (PI.  30)  near  the  bridge,  on  the  r.  bank 
opposite  to  the  Schwert  hotel,  constructed  in  1689  in  the  style 
of  that  period,  presents  nothing  worthy  of  note.  Below  the 
bridge,  to  the  1.  on  the  bank  of  the  Limmat,  is  the  new  Fleiseh' 
Halle,  opposite  which  is  the  handsome  new  Museum  (PI.  26). 

Above  the  Munster-Brucke,  where  the  Limmat  issues  from 
the  lake,  extends  the  busy  Sonnef^Quai  on  the  r.  bank.  Beyond 
it,  on  the  Stadelhof-Quai  and  the  See-Strasse  (which  leads  be- 
tween the  Bellevue  and  the  Zuricher  Hof),  is  situated  the  Ton- 
haUe  (PI.  20),  which  contains  concert  and  ball  rooms,  a  restau- 
rant (with  an  open  pavilion  in  summer),  ete.  Adjoining  it  on 
the  1.  is  Meyer* 8  Panorama  of  the  Bigi  (adm.  1  ft.)  which  me- 
rits a  visit  Here  turn  to  the  1.,  cross  the  Stadelhofer  Platz, 
which  is  adorned  with  a  tasteful  fountain  with  figures  of  children 
in  bronze,  and  ascend  to  the  *Hohe  Promenade  (PI.  13),  a  lof- 
tily situated  avenue  of  lime-trees.  Beautiful  view  (morning- 
light  most  favourable)  from  the  plateau  where  the  Monument  of 
Nagdi  (d.  1836)  (PI.  10),  an  eminent  vocal  composer,  with  k 
bust,  was  erected  ^von  den  aehweixerisehen  Sdngervereinen  ihrem 
VaUr  Ndgeli'. 

From  the  N.  extremity  of  the  Promenade  a  path,  skirting  the 
N.  side  of  the  cemetery,  leads  to  the  high  road  to  Winterthur, 
ascending  which  for  a  short  distance,  the  traveller  reaches  the 
Cantonal  SehoolB  (PI.  7)  on  the  1.,  a  handsome  edifice,  com- 
prising a  grammar  and  a  commercial  school.  Farther  on  in 
the  same  direction,  the  Cantonal  Hoepital  (PI.  6)  on  the  r., 
and  the  adjoining  Sehool  of  Anatomy  are  attained;  to  the  1.  on 
the  slope  of  the  hill  is  an  Asylum  for  the  blind  and  dumb 
(PI.  4);  lower  down  to  the  1.  the  Hall  of  Art  (PI.  21),  con- 
taining some  good  modern  pictures  by  Ludwig  Hess,  Diday, 
and  Koller,   and  the   handsome  * PoljrteehiKio  (PI.  28),   erected 


32     Route  13.  ZURICH.  Lindenhof. 

1861 — 64,  the  terrace  in  front  of  which  commands  the  finest  *view 
of  the  town.  Descending  to  the  1.  beyond  the  Polytechnic,  the 
traveller  next  reaches  the  garden  of  the  Deanery  of  8t.  Leonard 
(Pfrundhaus,  PI.  22},  a  large  building  on  the  slope  of  the  hill, 
now  an  asylum  for  aged  and  destitute  persons.  The  garden- 
terrace,  to  which  the  public  are  admitted,  affords  a  survey  of  the 
valley  of  the  Limmat  and  the  railway  to  Baden.  Returning  to 
the  road  and  passing  the  Pfrundhaus,  the  traveller  takes  the  first 
street  to  the  1.  and  then  descends  by  a  flight  of  steps.  The 
smoking  chimneys  and  confused  din  intimate  that  the  manufac- 
turing quarter  of  Zurich  is  now  entered.  Among  the  most 
remarkable  factories  may  be  mentioned  that  of  the  engineers 
Escher,  Wyss^  ^  Co.,  who  have  constructed  most  of  the  steam- 
boats which  navigate  the  Swiss  and  Italian  lakes,  as  well  as 
many  of  those  on  the  Danube  and  Black  Sea.  The  traveller 
now  reaches  the  new  Railway  Station,  with  its  handsome  portal 
and  spacious  interior,  by  the  broad  Bahnhofs-Brucke^  which  was 
completed  in  1864. 

The  long  avenue  of  handsome  trees,  to  the  N.  of  the  railway  station, 
skirting  the  banks  of  the  Limmat,  affords  a  cool  and  pleasant  walk.  It 
terminates  in  a  point  of  land  called  the  ' Platzspitz "*  (so  named  from  the 
former  Schiitzenplatz),  which  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  river  Sihl 
(generally  very  shallow  in  summer)  with  the  Limiiiat.  A  flying  bridge 
(5  cent.)  crosses  to  the  beer -garden  DrdhtschmiedH  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
iiimmat,  the  pleasantest  route  to  the  Weid  (p.  27).  Half-way  between  tfte 
gas-manufactory  and  the  Platzspitz  stands  the  simple  monument  and  bust 
of  the  poet  8alomo  Oessner  (d.  1788),  whose  favourite  resort  was  the 
^  Platzpromenade  \ 

The  Bahnhofs-8trct88e,  a  broad  new  street  planted  with  trees, 
intersecting  the  whole  of  the  quarter  of  the  town  between  the 
Limmat  and  the  Sihl,  leads  direct  from  the  railway  station  to 
the  lake. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  town  rises  the  Lindenhof  (PI.  23), 
situated  115'  above  the  Limmat,  once  a  Celtic  settlement,  then 
a  Roman  station,  and  subsequently  an  imperial  palace,  where  in 
the  9th  and  10th  cent,  a  public  court  of  judicature  was  held. 
The  Gothic  Free^Masons'  Lodge  was  erected  on  the  S.E.  side 
in  1851. 

Descending  on  the  S.  side  by  the  street  to  the  r. ,  the  tra- 
veller arrives  at  the  Augattine  Cliareh  fPl.  16),  used  for  three 
hundred  years  as  a  magazine,  but  in  1848  restored  to  its  origi- 
nal use  as  a  Rom.  Oath,  place  of  a  worship,  and  now  a  model 
of  simplicity  and  good  taste.  The  two  Pictures  over  the  side 
altars ,  'Christ  on  the  mount  of  Olives' ,  and  'the  Risen  Saviour' 
by  Desehwanden,  are  able  works ;  the  high  altar,  pulpit,  and  organ 
are  also  worthy  of  mention.  Adjoining  the  S.  side  of  the  church 
is  the  former  Augudtine  monastery.  A  little  farther  to  the  S.E. 
is  St.  Peter's  Chnroh  (PI.  19),  of  which  the  excellent  Lavater 
(d.  1801)  was  pastor  for  23  years. 


Bauschanze.  ZURICH.  13.  Route.     33 

To  the  K.W.  of  the  Roman  Cath.  church,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Bahnhofa-strasse,  is  the  old  Cemetery,  adjoining  the  Chapel  of  St.  Anna^  in 
which  English  Church  Sertfiee  is  performed  during  the  season.  Here  rests 
Lattater;  an  upright  stone  by  the  £.  wall  marks  his  grave.  The  remains 
of  Ebely  the  author  of  an  admirable  work  on  Switzerland  (b.  1764  at 
Ziillichau,  d.  1830),  and  Escher  von  der  Linth^  the  constructor  of  the  Eschcr 
canal  ( p.  42),  are  also  interred  here. 

Grossing  the  Bahnhofs-Strasse  and  following  the  Pelican-Strassc, 
the  traveller  arrives  at  the  Botanical  Oaiden  (PI.  5),  which  con- 
tains 800  Alpine  plants,  and  busts  of  De  CandoUe  (d.  1841)  and 
Conrad  Gessner  (d.  1565),  executed  in  bronze.  Here  rises  a 
bastion  of  the  old  fortress  knovrn  as  the  *Kati,  forming  an  ele- 
vated platform  planted  with  lime-trees,  and  xommanding  a  splen- 
did view  of  the  town,  lake,  Alps,  and  valley  of  the  Limmat. 

The  Thalgasse  and  Seegasae  lead  to  the  S.  from  the  Botanical 
tjarden,  past  the  hotels  Zum  Falken  and  Baur  au  Lac,  to  the  lake, 
llie  traveller  should  now  proceed  through  the  new  grounds  of 
the  StadtgarteHy  past  the  Bath"  Establishment  (p.  21)),  to  the 
*Baiischanzey  a  small  pentagonal  island,  surrounded  by  walls 
(formerly  a  bastion),  shaded  by  thick  foliage,  and  connected  with 
the  land  by  a  bridge,  similar  to  the  Rousseau-Island  at  Geneva, 
and  comniandiug  a  beautiful  view  of  the  lake  and  Alps.  The 
steamboats  stop  here. 

Adjacent  to  the •  Munster-bridge ,  on  the  1.  bank,  rises  the 
Srau-Vfinster  church  (PI.  17),  erected  in  the  13th  cent,  and 
distinguished  by  its  lofty  red  spire.  The  FostrOfAee  (PI.  29)  is 
immediately  beyond  it. 

A  Colleetion  of  Andent  Armour  is  exhibited  in  the  gloomy, 
insignificant  Arsenal  (PI.  36),  on  the  S.  side  of  St.  Peter's 
church;  it  contains  battle-axes,  armour,  flags,  and  cross-bows, 
among  which  is  one  of  the  many  which  claim  the  distinction  of 
having  belonged  to  Tell.  ZwinglVs  Battle-axe^  which  was  taken 
by  the  inhabitants  of  Lucerne  in  the  battle  of  Kappel  (p.  35) 
was  first  placed  in  the  arsenal  of  that  city,  but  at  the  con- 
clusion of  the  war  in  1847  was  transferred  hither,  together  with 
his  sword,  coat  of  mail,  and  helmet. 

The  *iretUberg  (2864'  above  the  sea-level ,  1525'  above  the 
Lake  of  Zurich)  (^Hotel  see  p.  29;  cab  in  72  ^^'  ^  Albisgutli, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Uetliberg,  2 — 3  fr.),  the  most  N.  point  of  the 
Albis  range j  6  M.  from  Zurich,  is  the  finest  point  of  view  in  the 
environs.  The  prospect  may  be  surpassed  in  grandeur,  but  not 
in  beauty,  by  those  from  heights  nearer  the  Alps.  It  embraces 
the  lake  of  Zurich,  the  valley  of  the  Limmat,  the  Alpine  range 
from  the  Sentis  to  the  Jungfrau,  the  Stockhorn  on  the  lake  of 
Thun,  in  the  foreground  the  Rigi  and  Pilatus,  and  W.  the  Jura 
chain  from  the  Chasseral  on  the  Lake  of  Bienne,  to  its  termi- 
nation near  Aarau,  over  which  appear  the  summits  of  some  of  the 
Yosges   mountains,    among  others  the  Ballon;    the  Feldberg  and 

BiKDEKBB,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  3 


34     Route  IS.  UETLIBERCj. 

Belchen  in  the  Black  Forest  are  also  visible,  and  the  volcanic 
cones  of  the  Hohgau ,  Hohentwiel ,  Hohenhowen ,  and  Hohen- 
stoO'eln.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Reuss  stands  the  Bene- 
dictine  Abbey  of  Muri,  the  front  of  which  is  750'  in  length;  it 
was  secularised  by  the  government  of  Aargau  in  1841,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  school;  by  morning  light  it  is  most  distinctly  visible. 
Baden  with  its  old  castle  (p.  16)  is  an  equally  conspicuous  object. 

Route  to  the  Uetliberg  (2  hrs.).  The  road  leads  to  the  W. 
through  the  suburb  Enge,  and  where  the  telegraph  wires  diverge 
to  the  1.,  it  pursues  a  straight  .direction  (to  the  1.  the  BiirgU^  p.  29). 
After  1  M.  (from  the  Hotel  Baur)  it  crosses  the  Sihl  by  a  new 
bridge,  and  then  turns  to  the  1.,  in  a  straight  direction  towards 
the  mountain  (on  the  summit  of  which  the  inn  is  visible);  3^4  M. 
Albisgiitli  (inn),  where  horses  (4  fr.  to  the  Uetliberg,  6  fr.  there 
and  back)  may  be  procured.  AVhere  the  road  terminates,  follow 
the  most  frequented  path  winding  upwards  through  the  valley. 
As  the  summit  is  approached,  a  view  of  the  Eigi,  Pilatus,  and 
the  Bernese  Alps  is  obtained;  20  min.  before  the  inn  is  reached, 
is  an  inscription  to  the  Memory  of  Frederick  vori  Diirler  of  Zurich, 
the  ascender  of  the  Todi,  who  perished  here  in  the  winter  of 
1840.  Beautiful  Alpine  plants  are  found  on  the  Uetli.  A  railway 
to  the  top,  on  the  same  principle  as  that  of  the  Rigi)  is  in  course 
of  construction. 

From  the  Uetliberg  to  the  Albis-  Hochwacht  (p.  35),  18  a 
delightful  walk  of  3  hrs.,  ascending  and  descending  on  the  Albis-range,  and 
chiefly  through  wood.  The  broad  path  (not  easily  mistaken)  passes  the 
above-mentioned  Diirler  inscription,  and  follows  the  crest  of  the  moun- 
tain, affording  occasional  glimpses  of  the  lake  of  Ziirich.  To  the  1.  is  the 
ravine  of  the  Sihl,  beyond  it  the  blue  lake  with  its  thousand  glittering 
dwellings,  to  the  r.  the  pretty  Tiirler  lake,  and  farther  distant  a  fertile 
undulating  tract,  with  the  Alps  towering  in  the  distance.  —  From  the 
Albis  Hochwacht  to  Zug^  see  p.  35. 

From  Ziirich  to  Regensberg.  A  branch  line  diverges  from  the  N.E. 
Swiss  railway  at  Oerlikon  (p.  86),  and  passing  stations  Oberglatt  and  Diels- 
dorfy  conveys  the  traveller  in  1  hr.  to  the  picturesquely  situated  old  town 
of  Regensberg  (2024')  {^LHwe ;  Krone)^  on  the  S.E.  spur  of  the  Ldgeitigebirg 
(p.  17).  Fine  view  from  the  tower  of  the  old  castle  i  still  more  extensive 
from  the  Hochwacht  (2828'),  1  hr.  farther  to  te  W. 


14.  From  Ziirich  to  Lucerne  by  Zug. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  40^  68. 

Railway  in  i'ja— 2»|2  hrs.  ^  fares  to  Zug  4  fr.  25,  3  fr.,  2  fr.  15  c.;  to 
Lucerne  6  fr.  50,  4  fr.  55,  3  fr.  25  c. ;  return-tickets  at  reduced  rates. 

Immediately  on  leaving  the  station  the  train  crosses  the  Sihl, 
and  at  stat.  Altstetten  (p.  18)  diverges  from  the  Zurich-Olten  line. 
To  the  1.  rises  the  long  Uetliberg  (see  above),  which  the  line 
skirts  in  a  wide  curve.  From  stat.  Urdorf  a  pleasant  view  of 
the  valley.  Near  stat.  Birmensdorf  the  Ettenberg  is  penetrated 
by  a  tunnel  Y3  M.  long.  Stations  Bonstetten,  Hedingen,  and 
Affoltem  (Lowe),  with  picturesquely  situated  church.    To  the  1. 


ALBIS.  14.  RouU.     35 

rises  the  Aeiigster  Berg  (2723'),  at  the  foot  of  which  He  the  small 
Tiirler  See,  the  village  of  Aeuysty  and  the  Baths  of  Wenyi. 
Near  Zug  the  train  crosses  the  Lorze  and  traverses  the  fertile 
Baarer  Boden  (p.  483. 

Zng,  see  p.  48.  The  station  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town. 
From  Zug  to  the  Rigi,  see  R.  18. 

Leaving  Zug,  the  train  skirts  the  flat  N.  bank  of  the  lake 
(to  the  S.  rises  the  Rigij,  again  crosses  the  Lorze  which  de- 
scends from  the  Lake  of  Egeri  to  the  Lake  of  Zug,  and  recrosses 
the  same  river  as  it  emerges  from  the  lake  near  station  Cham 
(Rabe).  To  the  1.  a  fine  view  of  Zug.  Beyond  stat.  Rothkreuz 
the  train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Reuss,  the  r.  bank  of  which  it 
follows.  Stat.  Qislikon,  or  Qiaikon.  The  covered  bridge  here 
(1348')  was  the  scene  of  several  sharp  skirmishes  during  the  war 
of  the  Separate  League  in  1847.  Beyond  stat.  Ebikon  the  train 
skirts  the  small  Rothaee  (1388'),  passes  through  a  cutting  and 
tunnel,  and  crosses  the  Reuss  by  a  long  iron  bridge.  The  line 
now  unites  with  the  Swiss  Central  (p.  15),  passes  under  the 
Qibraltar  (p.  51),  and  stops  at  the  station  of  Lucerne  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  lake,  opposite  the  principal  hotels. 

Laoemey  see  p.  50. 

From  Zurich  to  Zug  over  the  Albis  IT^js  M.  Sinee  the  completion 
of  the  above  railway  the  diligence  has  ceased  to  run.  Carriage  from 
the  Albis  Inn  in  21(4  iirs. ,  10—12  fr.    (Pedestrians,  see  below.) 

The  Albis  road  quits  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake  at  Wotlitho/en  (p.  41), 
ascends  towards  the  S.,  and  traverses  a  monotonous  plain.  Near  Adlischwpi 
(146(y)  it  crosses  the  Sihl  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge,  and  then  winds 
upwards  from  Unter-Alhis  to 

8iJ2  M.  Ober-Albii  (2602"),  a  solitary  *inn  at  the  highest  point  of  the 
road.  The  *Hochu>acht  (2887'),  with  a  pavilion,  i|2  hr.  to  the  S.  of  the  Albis 
Inn,  aflbrds  a  beautiful  and  extensive  prospect,  embracing  the  entire  Lake 
of  Zurich  ^  to  the  N.  the  volcanic  heights  of  Swabia;  to  the  W.  and  S.  the 
Lake  of  Zug,  Rigi,  Pilatus,  part  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  and  the  Alps  from 
the  Sentis  to  the  Jungfrau. 

The  road  descends  gradually  in  long  curves,  passing  the  small  TUrler 
See  (on  the  r.)  (2116')  to  Haua«ii  (1978')  (*Ldwe)y  a  thriving  village  with 
handsome  country-houses,  near  which,  on  a  wooded  height  to  the  1.  of  the 
road,  is  Albisbrunn^  a  hydropathic  establishment  chiefly  frequented  by  French 
patients  (pension  7i|2  fr.)-  The  next  village  is  Kappel  (ISSC),  with  the 
early  Gothic  church  of  a  suppressed  Cistercian  monastery,  containing  some 
old  stained  glass.  A  battle  took  place  here  on  Uth  Oct.,  1531,  between 
the  Rom.  Cath.  cantons  united  with  Lucerne,  and  the  reformers  of  Zurich, 
amongst  whom  was  Zwingli.  A  metal  plate  inserted  in  the  rock,  and 
bearing  a  German  and  Latin  inscription,  on  the  road  near  Kappel.  indi- 
cates the  spot  where  a  soldier  of  Unterwalden  found  Zwingli  wounded,  and, 
without  knowing  him,  pierced  him  with  his  sword  for  refusing  to  invoke 
the  Virgin  and  Saints.  Near  Boar  (p.  48),  2  H.  from  Zug,  the  roads  from 
the  Albis  and  Horgen  unite. 

9  M.  Zuy,  see  p.  48.  —  As  far  as  Paar,  pedestrians  may  always 
avoid  the  high  road  and  follow  pleasant  side -paths,  which  are  easily 
found.  The  walk  from  Zurich  by  the  Uetli,  Albis -Uochwacht,  Uausen, 
and  Kappel,  to  Zug  will  then  occupy  about  8  hrs.  (comp.  p.  34). 


36 


15.  From  Ziirich  to  Friedrichshafen  and  Lindan  by 

Eomanshom. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  40^  20^  22. 

Railway  to  Romanshorn  in  3  hrs.  i  fares  8  fr.  75,  6  fr.  10,  4  fr.  35  c.  — 
Steamboat  to  Friedrichshafen  im  1  hr. ,  fare  36  or  24  kr. ;  to  Lindau  in 
l^la  hr. ;  fare  1  fl.  6  kr.  or  42  kr.,  see  p.  22. 

The  line  crosses  the  Sifd,  ascends  in  a  wide  curve,  crosses 
the  Limmat  by  an  iron  bridge,  and  passes  under  the  Kdferherg 
by  a  tunnel  1020  yds.  In  length.  Between  stat.  Oerlikon  (Lowe) 
and  WalliseUen  (Linde)  it  crosses  the  Glatt.  To  the  S.  the  line 
to  Rapperschwyl  diverges,  see  p.  43.  Next  stations  Effretikon  and 
Kempthal.  Near  Winterthur  the  Toss  is  cro'fesed.  On  a  hill  to 
the  1.  the  ruins  of  Hoch-Wiilflingen. 

Winterthur  (1447')  (*Gold.  Lowe;  *Krone;  ^Adter,  nearest 
the  station,  R.  V/21  ^'  1  ^r- ?  restaurants  at  the  CafS  Ritter^  the 
CasinOj  and  the  Rail.  Station)  on  the  Eulach^  is  an  industrial  and 
wealthy  town  with  9404  inhab.  (974  Rom.  Cath.).  The  town  dis- 
played a  devoted  attachment  to  Austria  in  ancient  times.  Inde- 
pendence was  accorded  to  it  in  1417,  but  this  distinction  it  vo- 
luntarily resigned  in  1442,  and  became  once  more  subject  to  Aus- 
tria. Since  1467  it  has  belonged  to  Ziirich.  The  new  Town  Hall 
was'  designed  by  Prof.  Semper.  The  large  School  (adorned  with 
statues  of  Zwingli,  Gessner,  Pestalozzi,  and  Sulzer)  (1840),  on 
the  Promenade,  contains  a  few  small  Roman  antiquities  found 
near  Ober-Winterthur  (Vitodurum).  Excellent  wine  is  grown  in 
the  neighbourhood,  the  best  at  Neftenbach  (p.  28).  —  The  ancient 
castle  of  Kyburg,  4^2  M.  S.  of  "Winterthur,  commands  a  fine 
view,  and  contains  a  collection  of  ancient  pictures. 

The  Schaffhausen-St.  Gall  and  Ziirich-Romanshorn  lines  inter- 
sect at  Winterthur.  The  latter  traverses  the  green  and  fertile 
canton  of  Thurgau.     Next  stations   Wiesendangen  and  Ulikon. 

Franenfeld  (1374')  (*Falk€),  capital  of  the  Canton  of  Thur- 
gau, with  5138  inhab.  (1079  Rom.  Cath.),  on  the  Murg^  possesses 
numerous  cotton-mills.  Barracks  opposite  the  station.  The  hand- 
some old  castle  on  its  ivy-clad  crag  is  said  to  have  been  built  by 
a  Count  von  Kyburg  in  the  11th  cent. 

Next  stat.  Felwen.  Near  stat.  Miilheim  the  line  crosses  the 
Thur  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge. 

From  Miilheim  to  Constance  diligence  once  daily  in  2  hrs.  Kear 
Wdldi^  at  a  little  distance  1.  of  the  road,  is  a  belvedere  on  the  Uohen- 
rain  (2044'),  commanding  a  magnificent  view. 

Stations  Marstetten  and  Weinfelden  (AA^S'^  (diligence  daily 
to  Constance  in  2  hrs.).  Schtoss  Weinfelden  (1850')  rises  on 
a  vine-clad  hill  to  the  1.  Next  stations  Biirglen^  Sulgen,  Am- 
riswyl,  and  Bomanshom  (1322')  (Hotel  Bodan  or  Romerhom), 
situated  on  a  peninsula  on  the  Lake  of  Constance,    with  a  good 


ST.  GALLEN.  16.  Route.     37 

harbour,  on  which  the  station  is  situated.  The  trains  correspond  with 
the  steamboats.    Lake  of  Constance  and  Friedrichshafen^  see  p.  23. 

16.    From  ZUrich  to  Lindan  by  St.  Gallon  and 

Rorschach. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  30^  22. 

Rail  tea  p  from  Winteithur  to  Rorschach  in  4>J2  hrs.  ^  farefl  10  fr.  G5, 
7  fr.  50,  5  fr.  35  c.  —  Steamboat  from  Rorschach  to  Lindau  in  1>|4  hr., 
fares  48  or  32  kr. ;  see  p.  22.  This  route  is  about  S'li  hrs.  longer  than  the 
preceding  (K.  15). 

From  Ziirich  to  Winterihur  (in  1  hr.)  see  p.  36.  The  St.  Oallen 
railway  traverses  a  district  not  remarkable  for  beauty,  consisting 
chiefly  of  meadow-land,  with  wooded  hills  on  either  side.  The 
Churflrsten  mountains  gradually  become  visible  to  the  S. ,  and 
the  mountains  of  Appenzell  to  the  S.E.  Numerous  stations,  lirst 
Rdterschen,  and  next  KLyg  ^  beyond  which  rises  Scktoss  Elgg. 
Then  Aadorf,  Eschlikon,  Simach,  and  Wyl  (1936')  (SchonttuU,  or 
Post),  a  town  with  several  monasteries.  The  station  commands 
a  pleasing  view  of  the  Sentis  and  its  neighbour  mountains. 

The   line  crosses   the  Thur   by   an  iron  bridge    near   the   old 

castle  of  Stat.  Sehwartenbach.     Stat.  Ober-Uzwyl  is  U/^  M.  from 

the  hydropathic  estab.  of  Buchenthal.     Plawyl   (2021')  (*RdssU) 

is  a  large  manufacturing  village.    The  (Hatt  is  crossed.     Stations 

Gossan,    Winkeln,  Bruggen. 

From  Winkeln  post-omnibus  12  times  daily,  passing  the //etnrirAiifrad 
(^Curhaus,  with  chalybeate  springs,  whey-cure,  etc.),  in  %  min.  to  Herisau 
(2549')  (Ldtce) ,  a  small  town  with  extensive  muslin  manufactories  and  a 
venerable  clock-tower  of  the  7th  cent.  —  From  Herisau  via  Hundwyl  to 
Teufen  (p.  279)  diligence  once  daily  in  2i|3  hrs. ;  via  St.  Peterzell  and 
Lichtensteig  to  Watttcyl  in  the  Toggcnburg  (p.  290)  twice  daily  in  3*|4  hrs.  \ 
via  Urnaach  and  Oonten  to  Appenzell  (p.  27o)  once  daily  in  2M'j  hrs. 

The  handsome  iron  *Bridge  (10  min.  by  rail,  from  St.  Gallen), 
which  spans  the  deep  valley  of  the  Sitter  near  Bruggen,  is  200 
yds.  long,  and  230'  above  the  level  of  the  river.  To  the  1.,  a 
little  lower  down  the  stream  is  the  Krazembriieke ,  constructed 
in  1810,  once  regarded  as  a  triumph  of  engineering  skill. 

St.  Oallen  (2165').  ^Hecut,  good  cuisine  ^  «LowE,  R.  l>/i,  B.  1,  D.  3, 
A.  ijzfr. ;  *HiR8CH^  *LiMi>E^  ^ScuiFF,  OcusE,  and  Bar,  moderate.  Restau- 
rants at  the  Lochlibad,  near  the  Lowe,  the  Cafe  National  and  TrifchlVf. 
Bats  of  every  kind  at  Dr.  Seilz^s  establishment  'im  Paradies".  Telegraph 
Station  at  the  post-office. 

8t.  Gallen,  or  St.  Gall,  one  of  the  most  loftily  situated  towns 
in  Europe,  the  capital  of  the  canton,  and  since  1846  an  epis« 
copal  residence,  with  16,676  inhab.  (5957  Rom.  Cath.),  is  one  of 
the  most  important  manufacturing  towns  in  Switzerland.  The 
embroidery  of  cotton  goods  is  one  of  its  specialties. 

The  once  celebrated  Benedictine  Abbey ,  founded  in  the  7th 
cent,  by  St.  Gallus,  a  Scotch  monk,  and  suppressed  in  1805, 
was  one  of  the  most  important  seats  of  learning  in  Europe  from 
the   8th   to   the   10th   century.     The  Library   contains   many    re- 


38     Route  16.  RORSCHACH.  From  Zurich 

markable  and  valuable  MSS.  (e.  g.  a  Nibeiungenlied  of  the  13th 
cent.).  Of  the  manuscripts  mentioned  in  a  catalogue  of  the  year 
823  about  400  are  still  extant. 

The  Abbey  Church  (Rom.  Cath.),  rebuilt  in  1755  in  the 
Italian  style,  is  adorned  with  good  frescoes  on  the  ceiling.  The 
Prot.  Church  of  8t.  Lawrence^  to  the  N.  of  the  abbey-church,  has 
been  restored,  and  partly  rebuilt  (1850 — 1854)  in  the  Gothic  style. 

The  Town  Hall  bears  an  inscription  to  the  effect  that  'the 
glory  of  God  and  the  public  weal  shall  find  protection  in  this 
house'.  The  adjoining  JAterary  Museum  is  well  supplied  with 
newspapers.  SckoU's  Cabinet  of  Reliefs,  comprising  one  of  the 
Sentis,  90  sq.  ft.,  is  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  spacious  School  House  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  on  the 
road  to  Rorschach,  contains  the  Natural  History  Museum,  the  Town 
Library ,  rich  in  MSS.  of  the  time  of  the  Reformation ,  and  the 
Kanstverein. 

The  Ars&nal,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Orphan  Asylums,  the 
Penitentiary ,  Hospital ,  and  Reformatory  may  also  be  visited. 

Excursions.  Trogen,  Oais,  Appenzell^  Weissbad,  see  R.  65.  One-horse 
carr.  from  St.  Gall  to  these  places  and  back  12  fr. ,  a  pleasant  excursion 
for  one  day.  Diligence  and  omnibus  to  Appenzell  see  p.  279.  —  *Frevden- 
berg ,  *V6glisegg,  Frblichsegg ,  see  R.  65.  —  The  Kurzegg  inn  on  the  road 
to  Voglisegg  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Lake  of  Constance.  l?ear  it  is 
the  nunnery  of  Notkenegg.  —  The  Rosenberg  with  the  Kurzenburg,  a  Deaf 
and  Dumb  Institution  (view  towards  the  S. W.)  \  walk  along  the  hill  to  the 
inn  of  '■St.  Peter  and  St.  PauV  (2628'),  fine  view.  —  Across  the  pastures 
to  the  Bernegg  (inn)^  view  of  the  Sentis.  —  Bruggen  and  the  handsome 
bridge  over  the  Sitter  (p.  37),  by  railway  in  8  min. 

Between  St.  Galleh^and  Rorschach,  a  distance  of  9  M.,  the  line 
descends  850',  and  great  difficulties  were  encountered  in  its  con- 
struction. On  leaving  St.  Gallen  the  train  passes  through  a  long 
cutting  (on  the  r.  the  Cantonal  School,  on  the  1.  the  Prison'), 
and  enters  the  wild  valley  of  the  Steinach,  the  banks  of  which 
are  composed  of  the  alluvial  deposit  of  the  river.  Embankments 
and  cuttings  are  traversed  in  rapid  succession.  The  Lake  of 
Constance  is  frequently  visible  almost  in  its  entire  length ,  and 
Friedrichshafen  is  conspicuous  on  its  N.  bank.     Stat.  St,  Fiden. 

Near  stat.  Morschwyl  the  line  enters  the  valley  of  the  Goldach, 
and  crosses  this  stream  by  a  five-arched  stone  bridge,  85'  high. 
The  district  between  this  and  Rorschach  is  very  fertile.  There 
are  two  stations  at  Rorschach ,  the  first  of  which  is  1/2  M.  from  the 
town,  while  the  terminus  is  at  the  harbour. 

Bonohach  (1312').  *Seehok,  on  the  lake,  R.  2>|2— 3,  B.  1,  D.  3fr.; 
*Aniu£r;  *Hik8oh,  moderate;  *Schiff5  Krone  or  Post*,  ♦Gkuneb  Baum, 
R.  2'f2,  B.  1  fr. ;  ZuR  ToGOENBURG;  RossLE;  ZuR  Ilge.  —  *Ca/i  Seehof, 
with  garden  on  the  lake;  *Jlail.  Reatauront.  —  Private  aparfmenis  reason- 
able. The  wines  of  Rheinthal,  Schaffhatnen,  and  Winlerthur  are  the  best 
in  N.  Switzerland.  —  Telegraph  Office  at  the  harbour.  —  *Lake  Baths  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  town,  30c. 

Rorschach,  an  important-looking  town,  with  3492  inhab.  (1017 


to  Lindau.  LINDAU.  16.  limiie.      39 

Prot.),  carries  on  a  considerable  traffic  in  grain  with  8wabia  and 
Bavaria. 

Excnrnons.  Above  Rorschach  rises  the  ancient  abbey  of  Marienberg^ 
with  beaatiful  cloisters,  now  used  as  a  school.  The  view  from  the  Jior- 
schixcher  Berg  ^  the  green  and  fruitful  hill  which  rises  behind  the  t<»wn, 
embraces  the  entire  Lake  of  Constance,  with  the  Vorarlberg  mountains 
and  the  Alps  of  the  Orisons^  its  summit,  the  ^XoMbfihel,  may  be  reached 
in  1>|4  hr.  from  Rorschach.  The  whole  hill -country  is  intersected  by 
roads,  which  aiSbrd  a  great  variety  of  pleasant  walks.  The  Oastle  of  St. 
Anna,  or  Korsohacher  Bchlou,  once  the  seat  of  the  Barons  of  Rorschach 
who  became  extinct  in  1449,  and  afterwards  the  property  of  the  Abbots 
of  St.  Gallen,  is  now  occupied  by  peasants.  Fine  view  from  the  upper 
rooms.  The  path  to  it  turns  to  the  r.  below  the  Marienberg,  and,  beyond 
the  bridge,  to  the  1.^  then  by  the  next  turning  to  the  1.,  where  the  path 
divides  among  the  trees,  the  hill  is  ascended.  —  The  Martinstol>el  and 
Mottelischloss,  with  the  help  of  the  railway,  form  a  pleasant  excursion  of 
3  hrs.  ^  by  the  St.  Gallen  railway  to  stat.  8t.  Fiden  (see  above).  Below  the 
station  the  traveller  takes  the  carriage-road  to  Nevdorf  (brewery  on  the  1.), 
and  descends  by  the  high-road  to  the  point  where  the  road  to  Heiden  diverges 
to  the  r.  The  latter  descends  to  the  *MartLa«tobel,  the  gorge  of  the  Ooldach, 
which  is  spanned  by  a  wooden  bridge,  116'  long,  102'  high,  constructed  in 
1468,  the  oldest  bridge  of  the  kind  in  E.  Switzerland.  Here  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  10th  cent,  the  monk  Kotker  composed  his  *  Media  vita 
in  morte  s«fnu«\  upon  seeing  a  man  accidentally  killed.  Beyond  the  bridge 
the  road  which  ascends  to  the  1.,  across  the  debris  of  a  landslip  which 
took  place  in  1845,  should  be  taken  to  Untereggen  (Schafle),  and  thence  the 
Goldach  road  descended  as  far  as  the  K5tteliachlo«a,  the  chateau  on  a  green 
eminence  to  the  r.  This  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Barons  of  Sulzberg, 
of  whom  it  was  purchased  by  the  opulent  Motteli  of  St.  Gallen,  and  after 
passing  through  various  vicissitudes,  it  has  now  fallen  almost  into  a 
ruined  condition.  A  foot-path  leads  direct  to  the  castle.  The  ^view  from 
the  new  platform  on  the  top  (gratuity)  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  lake. 
Agreeable  walk  back  to  Rorschach  through  the  WitholZy  1  hr.  —  To  Tii- 
hach  surrounded  by  fruit-trees,  and  the  Castle  of  Steinach  about  1  hr.  — 
*  Wienachter  Eck ,  Heiden^  see  p.  276,  Rheineck^  "Thal^  Weinbtirg  (castle  of 
the  Prince  of  Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen),  the  *Steinerne  Tisch  (stone  table), 
see  p.  281.  —  To  the  *Meldegg,  a  rocky  prominence  at  the  angle  of  the 
Rhine  valley,  commanding  a  charming  view  of  the  valley  and  the  lake. 
The  route  is  by  a  good  road  via  Rheineck  and  Walzenhavsen  to  (9  M.)  the 
monastery  of  Grimmenttein  ^  whence  the  Meldegg  is  reached  by  a  footpath 
to  the  1.  in  1(4  hr.  *Inn  on  the  top  open  in  summer  only.  This  point 
may  also  be  reached  from  St.  Margarethen  (p.  281)  in  1  hr. 

At  Horn  (on  the  lake,  I'l?  M.  ^.W.  *,  railway,  see  p.  25),  there  is  an  ex- 
tensive Pension  and  Bath-estab. ,  R.  1 — 6  fr.,  B.  85  c,  D.  2>|2  fr.,  A.  40, 
whey  70,  cold  bath  45  c,  warm  or  shower  bath  70  c,  Pension  25  fr.  per 
week.  Visitors  are  also  received  at  the  chateau  near  the  baths ,  to  the  1. 
of  the  road.  Bath-physician  Dr.  Tobler,  a  well  known  Oriental  traveller. 
No  shady  walks  in  the  vicinity. 

To  Lindau  by  steamer  (I74  br.,  fare  48  or  42  kr.),  comp  p.  20. 
To  the  S.E.  Bregenz  (^p.  354)  is  visible,  situated  at  the  foot  of 
picturesque  mountains,  with  the  Rhxticon  chain  in  the  back- 
ground; on  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  rise  the 
Appenzell  Mts.  and  the  Sentis. 

Idndau  (^BayrUcher  Hof,  R.  1  fl.,  B.  30,  A.  24  kr. ;  *Krone, 
moderate ;  Deutsches  Haus  and  Reutemann  on  the  lake ;  *Helvetia^ 
moderate;  Gdrtchen  auf  der  Mauer^  a  pension  on  the  mainland; 
Schutzengarten,  a  restaurant  with  view ;  Railway  Restaurant),  the 
terminus  of  the   Bavarian   S.W,  Railway    (express   to   Augsburg 


40     Route  17.  LAKE  OF  ZURICH. 

43/4,  to  Munich  5*/2  hrs.),  formerly  an  imperial  town  and  fortress, 
and  a  thriving  commercial  place  in  the  middle  ages,  lies  on  an 
island  in  the  Lake  of  Constance,  which  is  connected  with  the 
mainland  by  a  railway-embankment  and  a  wooden  bridge,  356  yds. 
long.  Lindau  is  said  to  have  been  the  site  of  an  ancient  Roman 
fort,  to  which  the  venerable  tower  near  the  bridge  perhaps  be- 
longed. Monument  to  King  Max  IL  (d.  1864)  at  the  harbour, 
in  bronze,  designed  by  Halbig.  At  the  end  of  the  S.  pier,  on 
a  granite  pedestal  33  ft.  in  height,  is  placed  a  lion  in  marble 
20  ft.  in  height,  also  by  Halbig.  The  Lighthouse  on  the  N.  pier 
commands  a  fine  view  from  the  top  (adm.  12  kr.). 

Ezcuruons.  Pleaj^ant  walk  along  the  bank  of  the  lake  towards  the 
W.  (to  the  1.  after  crossing  the  railway  embankment),  passing  the  villas 
of  Lotzbeck  (pretty  park),  Giebelbadi,  Lingg  (adorned  with  *fre8coes  by 
Naue),  and  others  to  the  (i|2  M.)  Schachenbad^  charmingly  situated  on  the 
lake,  and  the  8|4  M.)  Lindenhof  (or  Villa  Gruber),  with  its  beautiful 
grounds  and  hothouses  (admission  Tuesd.  and  Frid.  gratis,  at  other  times 
30  kr.  5  closed  on  Sund.).  About  1  M.  farther  is  the  chateau  of  Alwind. 
—  Beautiful  view  from  the  {^\\  hr.)  Hoierberg,  reached  by  a  path  by  the 
side  of  the  railway,  or  by  the  road  by  Aeschach  (Schlatter)  to  the  village 
of  Hoiren^  at  the  foot  of  the  vine-clad  hill.  Two  inns  and  a  belvedere  on 
the  top.  —  Railway  via  Lochau  to  Bregenz^  see  p.  354. 

17.  From  Zurich  to  Coire.     Lakes  of  Zurich  and 

Wallenstadt. 

Camp.  Map^  p.  276. 

Railway  by  Wallisellen,  Rapperschwyl,  Wesen,  and  Sargans  in  33|4 — 
43(4  hrs.  \  fares  14  fr.  70,  8  fr.  90  c,  6  fr.  5  c.  —  The  railway  does  not  ap- 
proach the  lake  of  Zurich  till  Rapperschwyl  is  reached.  It  is  therefore  far 
preferable  to  take  the 

Steamboat  to  Rapperschwyl  in  l»f4 — 2»|2  hrs.,  fares  2  fr.  10,  or  1  fr. 
20  c.  ^  or  to  Schmerikon,  at  the  upper  extremity  of  the  lake,  in  3*J4  hrs., 
fare  2  fr.  65  c.  or  2  fr.  Return-tickets,  available  for  the  day  of  issue,  at  a 
fare  and  a  half^  landing  and  embarking  in  small  boats  without  addi- 
tional charge.  —  Rapperschwyl  and  Schmerikon  are  both  railway-stations. 

The  Lake  of  Zurich  (1341'),  251/2  M.  long,  and  21/2  M. 
broad  at  its  widest  part  (between  Stafa  and  Richterswyl),  is  fed 
by  the  Linth  and  drained  by  the  Limmat.  Its  scenery,  though 
with  slight  pretensions  to  grandeur,  is  scarcely  equalled  in  beauty 
by  any  other  lake.  The  banks  rise  in  gentle  slopes,  at  the  base 
of  which  are  meadows  and  arable  land;  above  these  is  a  belt 
of  vineyards  and  orchards,  and  on  the  E.  side  forests  crown  the 
summits  of  the  hills ,  here  about  2700'  high.  The  two  banks 
of  the  lake  are  sometimes  not  unaptly  termed  the  suburbs  of 
the  town  of  Ziirich,  so  thickly  are  they  sprinkled  for  a  long 
distance  with  houses,  villages,  and  large  manufactories.  In  the 
background  the  snow-clad  Alps  (see  p.  30)  bound  the  landscape, 
adding  to  its  pastoral  loveliness  a  little  of  their  imposing  majesty. 

The  Steamboat,  soon  after  starting,  passes  (on  the  1.)  iVet*- 
miinster  (1453'),  a  suburb  of  Zurich,  with  its  picturesque  church 
on  the  hill.     It  now  directs  its  course  towards  the  W.  bank,  to 


I 


( 


HORGEN.  17.  Route,     41 

Bandlikon  (except  for  the  two  routes  along  the  E.  bank),  in  the 
parish  of  Kilchberg ,  which  stands  above  it ,  on  the  hills  which 
bound  the  bank.  On  the  r.  is  WoUishofen,  on  the  1.  ZoUikon 
(p.  31),  on  the  hill,  with  its  pointed  steeple.  The  boat  now 
steams  along  the  S.  bank;  above  Ruschlikon  the  white  buildings 
of  NideWad  (beautiful  view) ;  opposite,  on  the  r.  bank,  Kuanacht 
(^Sonne),  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  village  of  that  name 
on  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  (p.  50).  The  next  place  on  the  N. 
bank  is  Erlenbach;  on  the  S. ,  Thalwyl  ( Krone ^  on  the  lake; 
*Adler)j  charmingly  situated.  Beautiful  *view  of  the  lake  from 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  church,  or  still  better  from  the  gallery 
of  the  tower ;  one  of  the  most  delightful  of  the  short  excursions 
from  Ziirich.  Between  Thalwyl  and  HerrUberg,  the  next  village 
on  the  N.  bank,  is  the  deepest  part  of  the  lake  (476').  Ober- 
rieden  is  the  next  place  on  the  8.  bank;  the  boat  then  stops  at 
the  important  looking  village  of 

Horgen  (1394')  {*Meierkofy  on  the  lake,  with  garden, 
R.  2,  B.  1 ,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ,  pension  5  —  6  fr. ;  Schwan; 
Lowe;  Krauss^  a  h6tel  garni),  with  handsome  houses  chiefly  be- 
longing to  the  silk  manufacturers  (5199  inhab.).  The  place  is 
well  adapted  for  a  prolonged  stay.  Horgen  is  a  station  on  the 
lake- route  (see  R.  18)  from  Ziirich  to  the  Rigi  and  Lucerne. 
The  sanitary  establishment  of  *Bokken  (pension  5  fr.),  Yg  ^^' 
above  the  village,  commands  a  fine  view.     The  Zimmerberg,  p.  46. 

The  picturesque  wooded  peninsula  of  Au  projects  into  the 
lake  on  the  S.  bank  (*Leuthold'a  Hdtel,  160  ft.  above  the  lake, 
pension  5  fr.).  Opposite ,  on  the  N.  bank ,  is  the  considerable 
village  of  Keilen  (Lowe;  Sonne) -^  next  Obermeilen;  then  Vetikon 
and  Mdnnedorf.  Behind  the  latter  rises  the  Pfannenstiel  (2798'). 
To  the  E.,  in  the  distant  background,  rises  the  Speer  (p.  45); 
to  the  r.  the  mountains  of  Glarus ;  to  the  1.  of  the  Speer  the 
Sentis  (p.  280);  more  to  the  N.  the  mountains  of  Toggenburg; 
to  the  r.,  above  the  lake,  the  forest-clad  Hohe  Rhonen  (4042'). 
The   next   places   on  the  S.  bank  are  the  important  villages  of 

W&deniwyl  (*Engely  opposite  the  quay;  diligence  to  Zug 
three  times  daily  in  3  hrs. ;  to  Einsiedeln  in  21/2  hrs.,  comp. 
p.  296),  the  largest  on  the  lake  (6049  inhab.),  and  Biohterswyl 
(Drei  Konige  or  Post;  *Engel)  (3557  inhab.),  where  the  pilgrims 
to  Einsiedeln  (9  M.,  see  R.  72)  disembark. 

Excursion  to  the  whey-cure  sanitary  eatablishment  (1>|4  hr.)  HUUen 
(2428'),  commanding  a  fine  view  to  the  N.  as  far  as  the  Jura,  Vosgcs,  and 
Black  Forest  5  thence  to  the  summit  of  the  (i'jz  hr.)  ^  Oottschidlenberg 
(3743') ,  the  W.  prolongation  of  the  Hohe  Rhonen  (see  above) ,  which 
affords  a  fine  survey  of  the  Alps,  with  the  pretty  £geri-See  (p.  300)  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  S.  side.  It  will  repay  the  traveller  to 
make  this  excursion  even  from  Zurich.  In  returning  follow  the  crest 
of  the  Gottschallenberg  as  far  as  ('(2  hr.)  Mangeli ,  and  proceed  by  the 
monastery  of  Oubel  to  ('ja  hr.)  Memingen;  then  either  by  /ScMnbrunn  (p.  49) 
to  (4>|2  M.)  Zug  (p.  48),  or  cross  the  Si/U  (p.  46)  to  OH'z  M)  Horgev,  and 
return  to  Zurich  by  steamer. 


42     Route  17.  RAPPERSCHWYL.  From  Zurich 

The  steamer  now  steers  N.  to  Stafa  on  the  opposite  bank. 
This  is  the  widest  part  of  the  lake.  Beautiful  retrospect  of 
Wadenswyl  and  Richterswyl.  Stafa  (Sonne;  Lowe),  the  largest 
village  on  the  N.  bank  (8836  inhab.),  is  noted  for  the  active 
part  which  it  takes  in  all  national  movements. 

From  Stafa  the  boat  steers  along  the  N.  bank.  Stations 
Kehlhofy  Uerikon,  Sehirmensee  (Rossli).  Before  Rapperschwyl 
is  reached,  the  small  flat  islands  of  Liitzelau  and  Vfnau  become 
visible  to  the  r.,  in  front  of  the  wooded  heights  of  the  Etzel 
(p.  297).  Ufnau,  the  property  of  the  abbey  of  Einsiedeln,  con- 
tains a  farmhouse,  and  a  church  and  chapel  consecrated  in  1141. 
Vlrich  von  Hutien,  one  of  the  most  violent  of  the  early  reformers, 
and  one  of  the  boldest  and  most  independent  men  of  his  time, 
sought  refuge  here  when  pursued  by  the  Inquisition  in  1523, 
and  died  15  days  after  his  arrival,  at  the  age  of  36.  His  remains 
repose  in  the  little  churchyard,  but  the  exact  spot  is  unknown. 

Bappertehwyl  {^Schwan^  on  the  lake,  R.  i^j^',  B.  1,  L.  and 
A.  ^1^  fr. ;  Poste,  at  the  station,  with  restaurant,  R.  1 — 2,  D. 
2^2?  B.  1,  A.  Y2  ^'- ;  * Freihof^  in  the  town;  Hotel  duLaCj  on 
the  lake),  a  picturesquely  situated  town  with  2574  inhab.  (848 
Prot.) ,  possesses  an  ancient  Sehloss  and  Church  (sacred  vessels 
worthy  of  inspection),  and  a  Capuchin  Monastery^  between  which 
rises  an  eminence,  shaded  by  lime-trees  and  commanding  beau- 
tiful views.  The  old  castle,  restored  by  Count  Plater  in  1871, 
contains  the  Polish  National  Museum,  an  interesting  collection 
of  antiquities ,  coins ,  autographs ,  etc.  (admission  gratis).  Fine 
view  from  the  tower. 

The  conspicuous  Bridge  across  the  lake,  originally  constructed 
in  1350,  re-erected  in  1819,  is  supported  by  180  pillars  of  oak 
and  is  nearly  1  M.  in  length.  Below  the  bridge,  near  the  S. 
bank ,  a  Column  was  erected  in  1873  to  mark  the  spot  where 
the  boundaries  of  the  cantons  of  Zurich,  Schwyz ,  and  St.  Gal- 
lon meet.  (From  Rapperschwyl  by  the  Etzel  to  Einsiedeln ,  see 
R.  72.) 

The  upper  end  of  the  lake  is  less  smiling,  but  far  more  im- 
posing than  the  lower.  The  mountains  of  St.  Gall,  Glarus,  and 
Schwyz  form  the  background.  The  steamer  passes  through  the 
bridge  and  steers  in  a  S.  direction  to  AUendorf^  on  the  1. 
bank  in  the  canton  of  Schwyz.  It  then  follows  the  S.  bank, 
stops  at  the  large  village  of  Lachen  (Bar;  Oehse),  and  at  the 
small  Baths  of  Nuolen,  and  finally  directs  its  course  to  Schme- 
rikon  (*Rdssli;  Seehof;  Adler)  on  the  N.  bank  ,  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  lake ,  not  far  from  the  marshy  influx  of  the  Linth 
Canal  (p.  44).     Railway  to  Wesen  (Glarus)  and  Coire  see  p.  44. 

From  Lac  hen  to  Glarus  by  the  picturesque  WAggithal,  a  charming 
excursion  (to  RichisHu  8  hrs. ,  thence  to  Glarus  4  hrs.)-  The  high-road 
leads  by  Oalgenen  to  (5  M.)  Siebenen.  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  deep  channel 
of  the  Aa,  where  the  Waggithal  is  entered  to  the  1.    A  carriage-road  then 


to  Coire,  BACHTEL.  17.  HouU.     43 

leads  to  (4>j2  M.)  Vorder- Wdggithal  (2428'),  pleasantly  situated  in  a  green 
dale,  beyond  which  it  traverses  a  narrow  ravine  between  the  Orosse  Au- 
herg  (5584')  on  the  r.  and  the  Gugetberg  (STT^)  on  the  1.,  and  reaches 
(4>|2  M.)  Hinter-Waggithat,  or  /n««r<AaM2802').  About  »|«  M.  farther  there 
is  a  new  "^Inn  with  baths.  The  road  terminates  here.  From  this  point 
to  the  Klonthal  a  guide  should  be  taken.  From  the  bridge  the  path  as- 
cends to  the  r.,  passing  the  Aaberli  and  the  Ober-Alp  (5138'),  to  the  top  of 
the  pass  (5151'),  and  then  descends  past  several  chalets,  until  the  whey- 
cure  establishment  of  Richitau  becomes  visible  far  below.  The  path 
now  descends  the  mountain-slope  to  the  r.  From  Richisau  to  Glarus  see 
pp.  302,  303. 


The  Railway  Route  from  Zurich  to  Kapperschwyl  is  less 
attractive  than  the  steamboat  journey,  but  thence  to  Coire  it 
passes  through  very  picturesque  scenery.  From  Zurich  to  Wal- 
liseUen  see  p.  36.  The  Coire  railway  diverges  here  to  the  S.E. 
from  the  Winterthur  line,  but  travellers  from  Zurich  do  not 
change  carriages.  All  the  trains  convey  goods  as  well  as  pas- 
sengers. The  refreshment- rooms  at  the  stations  are  generally 
indifferent.  Beyond  Wallisellen  the  line  traverses  a  flat  district, 
not  far  from  the  r.  bank  of  the  Glatt,  which  flows  from  the 
Greifensee  (1440')  (81/2  M.  long,  1  M.  wide,  not  visible  from 
the  line).  Stations  Dubendorf,  Schverzenhach ,  Nanikon.  Then 
Stat,  lister;  on  the  r.  is  the  church  with  its  tapering  spire,  and 
the  loftily  situated  old  castle  with  its  massive  central  tower,  where 
a  court  of  justice ,  a  jail ,  and  an  inn  are  now  established.  In 
the  neighbourhood  are  several  large  cotton-mills,  driven  by  the 
Aa,  a  brook  near  the  railway.  Next  stat.  Aathaly  near  which 
is  the  Lake  of  Pfaffikon  (1775'),  not  visible  from  the  railway. 
The  Alps  of  Glarus  and  Schwyz  form  the  background  to  the  S. 
Between  stat.  Wetzikon  (diligence  to  Hinwyl  at  the  N.W.  foot 
of  the  Bachtel,  see  below,  twice  daily  in  Y2  ^^-^  ^^^^  ^^  c.) 
and  Bubikon  the  line  attains  its  highest  level,  and  then  descends 
rapidly.  To  the  1.  the  Bachtel,  with  an  inn  at  the  top.  Next 
stat.  RiUi. 

The  Bachtel  (3671')  (Inn,  tolerable),  a  hill  to  the  N.E.  of  Riiti,  commands 
a  pleasing  view  to  the  N.W.  over  the  district  of  Uster  sprinkled  with  manu- 
factories, the  Lakes  of  Greifen  and  Pfaffikon,  N.W.  the  Lake  of  Ziirich 
from  Wadenswyl  to  the  Linth  Canal,  the  valley  of  the  Linth  as  far  as  the 
bridge  of  Mollis,  and  the  Alps  from  the  Sentis  to  the  Bernese  Oberland. 
Consult  Keller'^s  Panorama,  to  be  seen  at  the  inn.  Diligence  twice  a  day 
in  3J4  hr.  from  Riiti  to  Wdld,  at  the  8.E.  foot  of  the  Bachtel,  whence  the 
summit  is  easily  reached  in  li|2  hr. 

The  train  descends,  chiefly  through  wood.  As  it  approaches 
the  picturesque  village  of  Jona  (which  adjoins  Kapperschwyl), 
au  extensive  view  to  the  1.  of  the  Alps  of  Schwyz,  with  the 
Miirtschenstock ,  Schanisberg,  Speer,  and  Anally  the  Sentis, 
unfolds  itself. 

Bapperaohwyl,  see  p.  42.  The  station  on  the  lake  near  the 
long  bridge  and  steamboat-pier,  is  a  terminus,  from  which  the 
train  backs  out  on  its  departure.    As  far  as  Wesen  a  seat  on  the 


44     Route  17.  UZNAOH.  From  Zurich 

T.  should  be  selected.     The  line  crosses  the  Jonen-Fluss^  passes 

the  nunnery  of   WurmspacJi  on  the  r. ,  and  approaches  the  bank 

of  the  Lake  of  Zurich    neaT  stat.  BoUingen.     Extensive   quarries 

of  sandstone  near  the  lake.      The   Miirtschenstock   towers   above 

the  wooded  heights  near  the  lake  (Untere  Buchberg,  see  below), 

and    on    the    r.    are    the    Frohnalpstock   and   the    Schild,    near 

Glarus.      As   far   as   Schmerikon   (p.  42,    station   on   the   lake) 

the    line  runs   close    by   the   lake ,    and   on   reaching   its   upper 

end  enters  the  wide  valley  through  which  the  Linth  Canal  flows. 

To  the  r. ,  on   a   spur   of  the    Untere   Buchberg   (20019,    round 

which   the  canal   winds ,    stands   the   ancient   castle   of   Orynau, 

with  a  frowning  square  tower,  situated  in  the  canton  of  Schwyz. 

Stat.  Usnach  (1378')  (Falke)  is  a  manufacturing  village,  situated 

to  the  1.  on  an  eminence,  surmounted  by  the  church!    (Diligence 

to  Brunnen    by   Lachen  and   Einsiedeln  twice  daily   in  7^/4  hrs., 

comp.  R.  72;    to    Wattwyl   in  the  Toggenburg   four  times   daily 

in   2Y4  hrs.,   p.  290).     To   the   1.  on   the  height  the  monastery 

of  Sion.    The  two  villages  of  Kaltbrunn  on  the  1.  and  Benken  on 

the  r.  have  the  next  station  in  common.     The  Isolated  range  of 

wooded  hills  here  skirted   by  the  railroad  and    the   Linth   Canal 

is   the    Obere    Buchberg    (2021').       Near    stat.  SchanU  (1450') 

(*Gmiir),  a  manufacturing  village,  the  ancient  frontier  of  RhaBtia, 

some  sharp  skirmishes  took  place  between   the   French   and  the 

Austrians  in  1799. 

The  line  now  approaches  the  Linth  Canal  which  runs  parallel 

with  the  high  road  and  the  railway,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schdniser 

Berg;  to  the  r.  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Valley  of  Glarus  with  its 

snow  mountains. 

The  Linth  Canal.  The  Linth  descends  from  the  valley  of  Glarus 
often  with  such  violence  as  to  carry  fragments  of  rock  and  deposit  of  all 
kinds  along  with  it.  In  process  of  time  this  deposit  so  completely  filled 
the  bed  of  the  river,  that  the  entire  plain  between  the  lakes  of  Wallcn- 
stadt  and  Zurich  was  inundated,  and  a  once  fertile  district  converted  into 
a  dismal  swamp,  from  which  the  inhabitants  were  at  length  driven  by 
malaria.  In  1807,  in  consequence  of  the  exertions  of  Conrad  Escher^  an 
inhabitant  of  Zurich,  the  Diet  ordered  that  the  lower  part  of  the  Linth 
should  be  converted  into  a  canal,  and  conducted  into  the  Lake  of  Wal- 
lenstadt,  and  that  a  new  canal  (the  E$cher  Canal)  should  be  constructed 
to  drain  the  latter  lake  into  the  Lake  of  Zurich  \  or  rather  that  the  Maag^ 
an  outlet  of  the  Lake  of  Wallenstadt,  which  formerly  flowed  into  the  Linth, 
should  also  be  converted  into  a  canal.  Under  Escher's  direction  the  works 
were  begun  the  same  year,  but  not  completed  until  1822.  The  total  cost 
was  1,500,000  fr.,  but  the  proposed  object  has  been  perfectly  attained*,  the 
land  is  again  under  cultivation  and  thickly  peopled.  The  Government 
conferred  on  Escher  and  his  descendants  the  title  of  Von  der  Linth  (p.  30). 

Opposite,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Linth  Canal,  is  the    ^Linth 

Colonic' ,    originally  a  colony  of  poor  people   from  the   canton  of 

Glarus,  whose  occupation  was  to  keep  clear  the  bed  of  the  river 

before  the  construction  of  the  canal.     Beyond   stat.  Ziegelbrucke 

the   train   passes  through  a  short  tunnel.     To   the  r.  tower   the 

Wiggis    and   the    Glarnisch  (p.  302).     The   railway,    the   canal. 


to  Coite.  WESEN.  17.  EouJU.     45 

and  the  high  road  wind  round  the  BihtfUkopf  (1896^),  the  ex- 
treme spur  of  the  Schaniser  Berg,  which  commands  a  tine  view 
of  the  entire  Lake  of  Wallenstadt  and  the  Linth-Thal  up  to 
Nettstall  and  down  to  the  Buchberg.  The  station  of  Wesen 
(passengers  for  Glanis  change  carriages,  R.  70)  is  ^2  ^*  ^^om 
the.  village  and  the  Lake  of  Wallenstadt. 

WMen  {^Rail.  Restaurant;  *Zum  Speer,  at  the  station,  B. 
ly^}  ^*  ^^^  ^-  ^Vs'  pension  5  fr. ;  *8ekwert,  prettily  situated 
on  the  lake ,  R.  2  fr. ;  both  of  these  with  fine  view ;  Sonne, 
Rossli,  and  Adler y  unpretending;  several  others  in  the  'Fly\ 
the  side  of  the  village  next  the  lake),  lies  in  a  sheltered  situ- 
ation at  the  W.  end  of  the  Wallensee,  and  rejoices  in  an  almost 
southern  vegetation. 

The  *8peer  (6417')  is  ascended  from  Wesen  in  S^lu  hrs.  (guide  unne- 
cessary, finger-posts  at  doubtful  points).  At  the  church  turn  to  the  1.  (to 
the  r.  to  Amden ,  see  below) ,  and  ascend  for  the  first  i|s  hr.  over  rough 
breccia  pavement  (pleasant  retrospects  of  the  lake).  Then  a  steep  ascent 
through  woods  and  meadows^  lif4  hr.  MatUilp;  \}\a  hr.  Ober-Kdiem  Alp 
(^Inn  Zum  hohen  Speer).  Thence  to  the  summit  a  steep  ascent  of  1  hr. 
more.  Beautiful  view,  especially  towards  the  G.  and  K.E.  —  From  Nta- 
lau  the  Speer  may  also  be  easily  ascended  in  3>(2 — 4  hrs.  (descent  2i|4  hrs.)* 

From  (1  hr.)  Ammon,  or  Amden  (2874')  (Rdssli)  to  SUin  in  the  Tog- 
genburg  (p.  290)  a  pleasant  walk  of  5  hrs.  over  the  Amdener  Berg  (5056'), 
commanding  a  succession  of  beautiful  views.  Carriage  -  road  from  Wesen 
to  Amden  in  course  of  construction. 

The  Lake  Of  Wallenstadt,  or  Wallensee  (1394'),  12  M.  long, 
21/2  M.  wide,  and  400 — 500'  deep,  is  scarcely  inferior  to  the  Lake 
of  Lucerne  in  mountainous  grandeur.  The  N.  bank  consists  of 
almost  perpendicular  precipices  from  2000'  to  3000'  high ;  on 
the  N.E.  rise  the  barren  peaks  of  the  Si^en  Churfiraten  (^Leist' 
kamm  6890',  Selun  7241',  Frilmsel  7434',  Brisi  7477',  ZustoU 
7336',  ScheibensloU  7556',  Hinterruck  7523').  The  Bayerbach 
(1300'),  the  Serenbach  (1650'),  high  above  which  lies  the  vil- 
lage of  Ammon  or  Amden  (see  above),  and  other  cataracts  pre- 
cipitate themselves  over  the  cliffs,  but  are  generally  dry  towards 
the  end  of  summer.  One  solitary  village,  Qumten ,  has  found  a 
nook  for  itself  on  the  N.  bank. 

On  the  S.  bank  (of  which  the  railway  -  traveller  obtains  no 
general  view)  the  precipitous  rocks  are  pierced  by  nine  tunnels. 
A  tolerable  footpath  runs  along  this  bank  of  the  lake,  occasionally 
parallel  with  the  railway,  the  first  part  of  which  (to  Muhlethal^ 
before  reaching  stat.  Miihlehorn,  see  below)  is  the  worst.  At  the 
mouth  of  several  of  the  small  torrents  which  descend  from  the 
Miirtiichenstock  (8012'),  several  small  hamlets  have  established 
themselves  (see  below).  The  names  of  the  hamlets  Primseh 
(prima),  Gunz  (secunda),  Terzen  (2172'),  Quarten  (1817'),  and 
the  above-mentioned  Quinten,  as  well  as  the  designation  of  the 
whole  district ,  Gaster  (Castra  Rhaeiica) ,  recal  the  ancient 
stations  of  the  cohorts   of  a  Roman  legion. 

Beyond  Wesen  the  train  crosses  the  Liuth  Canal  by  an  iron 


46     RouU  17.  WALLfiNSTADT.  Prom  Zurich 

bridge.  The  line  to  Glarus  diverges  to  the  r. ,  see  R.  70.  The 
Coire  line  traverses  the  broad  valley,  crosses  the  Escher  Canal 
(p.  291)  jiear  its  issue  from  the  Lake  of  Wallenstadt,  and  then 
passes  through  two  tunnels  with  apertures  in  the  1.  side,  towards 
the  lake.  Beyond  them  the  Bayerbach  waterfall  is  seen  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  lake,  and  the  village  of  Ammon  on  the 
hill  above;  then  the  falls  of  the  Serenbachj  which  after  rain 
have  a  considerable  volume,  but  sometimes  disappear  in  summer. 
Four  more  tunnels  now  follow  in  rapid  succession  (the  first  with 
apertures  on  the  lake  side) ;  between  them  are  obtained  pleasant 
glimpes  of  the  lake,  the  waterfalls,  and  the  precipices  to  the  1. 

Stat.  Muhlehom  (Tellsplatte ;  *8eegarten^  on  the  lake;  boat 
across  the  lake  to  the  waterfalls  and  to  Wesen  2  fr.).  To  the  r. 
above  the  valley,  the  Murtschenstock  is  visible. 

From  Mllhlehorn  to  Mollis  (Sija  M.),  an  interesting  walk.  The 
road  leads  over  the  Kerenzer  Berg  y  by  (3  M.)  Obstalden  (22S7')  (*Hirsch, 
Stern),  and  (iij^  M.)  FUzhach  (2336'),  a  village  near  the  highest  part  of  the 
route.  The  view  embraces  the  entire  Wallensee,  the  mountains  of  the 
Seezthal,  the  valley  of  the  Linth  Canal,  as  far  as  the  Lake  of  Zurich, 
bounded  on  the  1.  by  the  Hirzli  (5492^,  and  the  valleys  of  Glarus  with 
the  Wiggis  and  Glarnisch.  Near  (3  M.)  Beglingen  a  glimpse  of  the  snow- 
fields  of  the  Todi.  The  road  then  descends  in  windings,  which  may  be 
cut  off  by  a  rough  footpath,  to  (1  M.)  Mollis  (p.  291). 

Two  more  tunnels;  then  stat.  Marg  (Roasli;  Schiffti),  on  the 
lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Murgthal.  The  best  view  of  the  lake 
Is  obtained   hence;   those   who   desire   to  spend  a  few   hours  on 

its  banks  may  alight  here  and  go  on  by  a  later  train. 

The  Murgthal  and  the  three  Murgseen  (S^j^hrs.  from  Murg)  are  worthy 
of  a  visit.  The  path  up  the  valley  affords  a  fine  retrospect  of  the  lake, 
the  village  of  Quinten,  and  the  precipitous  Ghurfirsten  in  the  background. 
Picturesque  waterfall  where  the  Murg  issues  from  the  second  lake  (the 
highest  5981')-  —  The  traveller  may  then  proceed  over  the  Widderstein- 
Furkel  (6606')  and  through  the  Milhlebachthal  to  Engi  in  the  Semfthal 
(R.  75),  6  hrs.  from  Murg,  a  picturesque  route. 

Beyond  Murg  another  tunnel.  On  the  opposite  bank  tower 
the  highest  peaks  of  the  Churfirsten  (p.  45).  Station  Unter- 
terzen;  the  village  among  pastures  to  the  r.,  with  the  red-capped 
tower,  is  Quarten  (1817').  Another  tunnel.  The  E.  end  of  the 
lake  is  now  reached,  and  the  Seez-Canal  is  crossed  by  an  iron 
bridge. 

WaUenstadt  (1394')  (^AdUr^  on  the  lake,  R.  IV2,  B.  1,  pen- 
sion 5  fr. ;  Hirachy  in  the  town ;  Zum  Churfirsten^  at  the  station, 
moderate,  fine  view,  good  beer)  lies  near  the  £.  bank  of  the 
lake.  Looking  back  on  the  1.  side,  a  view  is  obtained  of  the 
whole  lake  to  its  W.  end  near  Wesen,  and  of  the  horns  of  the 
Murtschenstock  towering  above  the  mountains  on  the  S.  bank. 

*Excursion  (with  guide)  from  Wallenstadt  in  2  hrs.  by  a  steep  path 
through  wood  to  the  Alp  LdsiSy  then  nearly  level  to  Alp  Bills  and  ('(4  hr.) 
Tschingelalp  (milk)^  follow  the  slopes  of  the  Churfirsten  to  (1  hr.)  Alp 
SchrieneUy  and  return  in  Uln  hr.  to  Wallenstadt. 

From  Wallenstadt  to  TTtld/iattx  in  the  Toggehburg  (6  hrs.,  p.290) 
a  footpath  with  beautiful  views  traverses  the  Hinterruck  and  Kaiserruck^ 
suitable,  however,  only  for  persons  with  steady  heads,  attended  by  a  guide. 


to  Colre.  SARGANS.  17.  RouU.     47 

The  line  now  traverses  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Seez ;  on 
the  r.,  on  a  projecting  crag,  stand  the  ruins  of  (rriiplany  (Homanir 
Crap  long\  or  Langensteinj  the  hereditary  castle  of  the  Tschudi 
of  Glarus;  opposite,  to  the  1.  above  Bdrschis^  on  a  height  near 
Stat.  Flums,  is  the  pilgrimage  church  of  St.  Ueorgen  (1778'). 
Near  stat.  Xels  (1637')  (^MeUerhof^  at  the  station;  *  Krone,  mo- 
derate) the  Seez  flows  out  of  the  Weiastanncn-l'halj  which  opens 
on  the  S.W. 

From  Meli  to  Vaiiis  through  the  Weisstannen-Thal  and  the  Kal- 
feuser-Thal.  In  3  hrs.  to  WeUtiannen  (32710  (Oamsli).  Thence  through 
the  S.  ramification  of  the  valley,  by  the  chalets  of  the  Alp  Unter  Lavtina 
(4289")  and  the  Alp  Val  Tii»ch  in  4  hrs.  to  the  highest  point  of  the  Heidel- 
pa»»  between  the  Seezberg  and  HeidelxpiU  (7976'),  whence  a  fine  view  of  the 
huge  Sardona  glacier,  the  Trinserhom,  the  Kingelspitz ,  etc.  is  obtained. 
From  this  Ui  the  Tamina  bridge  near  St.  Martin  (4433')  2  hrs.,  to  Vatiin 
(p.  286)  2  hrs.  more.  A  guide  is  necessary  for  the  passage  from  the  Weiss- 
tannen  to  the  Kalfeuser-Thal. 

At  Stat.  Sargani  {Hotel  Thoma,  R.  1—2,  D.  2^2  fr. ;  Roiali 
and  Lotoe  in  the  town)  the  train  reaches  the  valley  of  the  Rhine, 
and  the  Rorschach  and  Coire  line.  The  station  is  a  considerable 
way  from  the  town ;  carriages  sometimes  changed  here.  This 
little  town,  rebuilt  since  a  Are  in  1811,  is  picturesquely  situated 
on  an  eminence  (1591')  at  the  mouth  of  the  valley,  on  the  wa- 
tershed I  etween  the  Rhine  and  the  Wallensee ,  with  a  castle 
frowning  above  it. 

The  Course  of  the  Rhine  may  possibly  change  at  some  future  period, 
and  flow  towards  the  W.  through  the  Lakes  of  Wallenstadt  and  Ziirich. 
An  embankment  20^  high  and  scarcely  2(X)  paces  wide ,  confines  it  to  its 
present  N.  direction,  but  its  bed  is  rising  every  year,  and  gradually  converting 
the  environs  into  a  vast  swamp.  Historians,  on  the  authority  of  certain 
old  documents,  and  geologists,  arguing  from  the  similarity  of  the  deposits 
in  the  valleys  of  the  Seez  and  the  Rhine,  are  of  opinion  that  the  latter, 
or  at  least  an  arm  of  it,  formerly  flowed  into  the  Lake  of  Wallenstadt.  It 
must,  however,  be  added  that  even  the  disastrous  inundation  of  1868  ap- 
pears to  have  caused  no  apprehensions  of  the  possibility  of  the  Rhine  break- 
ing through  the  embankment. 

Railway  from  Sargans  to  Coire  by  Ragatz,  see  R.  66. 

18.  ]P'rom  Ziirich  to  the  Eigi  and  Lacerne  by  Horgen, 
Zug,  Immensee,  and  Kiiflsnacht.  Lake  of  Zug. 

Comp.  Map*,  pp.  40,  68. 
From  Zurich  to  Zvg  and  Lucerne  hp  Railway ,  *ee  R.  14. 

Steamboat  from  Zurich  to  Horgen  in  l^Uhr.  ^  Poit-omnibui  from 
Horgen  to  Zug  in  3  hrs.;  Steamboat  from  Zug  to  Imment.ee  in  40  m., 
to  Arth  in  X^a  hr.;  Poft-omnibv»  from  Immensee  to  KUssnacht  in  20min.i^ 
Steamboat  from  Kiissnacht  to  Lucerne  in  «|4  hr.  —  Fare  1st  cl.  from 
Zurich  to  Arth  5  fr.  21)  c. ,  from  Zurich  to  Lucerne  6Ms  fr-  No  2nd  cl. 
through-tickets  issued.  —  This  is  the  most  interesting  route  between  Zurich 
and  Lucerne,  although  less  expeditious  than  the  railway  (R.  14).  The  tra- 
veller bound  for  the  Riyi  should  start  from  Zurich  by  the  first  steamboat, 
and  is  recommended  to  order  a  room  at  the  Kulm  by  telegram  C^  c.)  or 
letter  (10  c). 

The  steamer  arriving  at  Lacerne  at  11.  35  corresponds  with  the  depar- 
tures for  Interlaken  (arr.  8  p.  m.)  by  Alpnach-Gestad  and  Brienz;  and  the 


48     RouU  IS.  ZUG.  From  Zurich 

traveller  leaving  Interlaken  at  6  a.  m.  arrives  in   time  for  the  boat  which 
leaves  Lucerne  at  2  p.  m.  ^  see  R.  24. 

Luggage  forwarded  for  the  St.  Gotthard  route  (R.  22)  should  be  ad- 
dressed 'poste-restante*'  to  the  principal  office  at  Altorf^  and  not  to  Fliielen. 

As  far  as  Eorgen   (1394'),  see  p.  41    (one-horse   carriage  to 

Zug  10,  two-horse  16,  three-horse  21  fr.).    The  road  ascends  in 

windings,    and  at  a  flnger-post  (3  M.)  joins   the  road  from  Wa- 

denswyl  (p.  41).    Several  fine  views  are  obtained  of  the  lake,  the 

Sentis,  Speer,  Churflrsten,  and  mountains  of  Glarus.    At  the  top 

of  the  hill,  near  (1^2  M.)   Hirzel,    is   the    inn  Zum  Morgenthal 

(2244').     The    road   then   descends   gradually   into  the  valley  of 

the  Sihl,  which  separates  the  cantons  of   Ziirich  and  Zug.     The 

covered  (2  M.)  Sihlbracke  (1745')  replaces  one  destroyed  in  1847 

during  the   war  of  the  Separate   League.     On   this   side  of  the 

bridge  (r.  bank)  is  the  *Kror^e  Inn  (good  wine). 

Pedestrians  should  choose  the  more  direct  road  by  the  Horger  Egg  to 
the  Sihlbrticke  (d^fj  M.),  which  shortens  the  way  by  2  M.,  and  affords  far 
more  beautiful  views.  Near  (2  M.)  Wydenhach  ^  the  Zimmerberg  (2536  ft.), 
i|4  hr.  from  the  road  to  the  r.,  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  lake  of  Zii- 
rich ,  the  sombre  valley  of  the  Sihl ,  the  Lake  of  Zug,  and  the  Alps  -,  the 
Hythen ,  the  Rigi ,  and  Pilatus  are  especially  conspicuous.  About  ^\  M. 
beyond  Wydenhach  the  road  reaches  the  Hirzelhohe  (2415')  (*Scharer'*s  Inn), 
its  highest  point,  whence  a  fine  prospect  is  also  enjoyed.  Near  the  Sihl- 
brticke the  high  road  is  reached. 

The  road  to  Zug  leads  through  an  undulating  tract,  passing 
the  W.  side  of  a  wooded  hill  on  which  rise  the  ruins  of  the 
Baarbury  (2086').  Beyond  the  wood  (2  M.)  the  road  commands 
a  view  of  Baar ,  the  Lake  of  Zug,  the  Rigi,  and  Pilatus.  To 
the  1.  on  the  (^4  M.)  Lorze,  which  is  now  crossed,  is  a  large 
cotton-factory  with  its  colony  of  workmen.  The  Rigi  and  Pilatus 
now  show  themselves  in  all  their  grandeur.  At  (1  M.)  Baar 
(1453')  (*Linderihof;  Sennkof;  Krone;  Rossli)  an  extensive  spinn- 
ing mill.  A  curious  custom,  not  unknown  in  other  parts  of 
Switzerland,  prevails  here.  The  skulls  of  the  dead  are  piled  up 
symmetrically  in  the  charnel-house ,  to  which ,  on  the  occasional 
opening  of  a  tomb,  they  are  religiously  conveyed  by  the  sur- 
viving relatives.     Zug  is  2^/4  M.  farther. 

12  M.  Zug  (1384')  dHirsch,  R.  3,  L.  1/2,  B.  IV2,  A.  3/^, 
pension  6  fr. ;  *Zurch€rhof,  R.  from  l*/2  fr* ;  Bdlevue;  Ochs; 
Falk:  Krone;  *Lowe^  on  the  lake,  R.  2,  B.  1 ,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ; 
Zum  Bahnkofj  near  the  station;  Pension  Tivoli^  on  the  lake), 
the  capital  of  the  smallest  Swiss  Canton,  with  4277  inhab.  (230 
Prot.),  boasts  of  6  churches  and  6  chapels.  The  Church  of  the 
Capuchins  contains  an  Entombment  by  Flamingo.  In  the  Arsenal 
are  preserved  ancient  weapons  and  flags  captured  by  the  Swiss, 
and  the  standard  stained  with  the  blood  of  its  bearer  Pierre  Col- 
lin ,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Arbedo  (p.  85)  in  1422.  At  the 
S.  end  of  the  town,  on  the  lake,  is  the  Hospital^  erected  in 
1854.     Handsome  new  government-buildings  in  the  Renaissance 


to  Lucerne,  ARTH.  18.  RouU.     49 

style.    The  ^Platzwehr   pier  commands  a  good  view  of  the  moon- 
tains  on  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  Kigi. 

Diligence  from  Zug  via  Egtfi  to  Sottel  on  the  Schwyz  and  Einaiedeln 
road  (p.  300)  in  23j4  hrs.,  fare  2  (r.^  (o  Arth  in  1  hr.  20  inin.,  fare  1  fr.  80  c. 
On  the  W.  slope  of  the  Zuger  Berg  ^  4  M.  from  Zug  (carriage- road) 
are  the  *Curhau»  Felsenegg  (d02iy}  a  nd  ihe  *Curhau*  Schdn/els^  both 
recommended  for  a  prolonged  stay  (pension  5 — 8  fr.),  and  commanding  a 
beautiful  view  towards  the  W.  From  tlie  Uorhwacht  (3251'),  the  summit 
of  the  Zuger  Berg,  a  prospect  towards  the  £.  is  also  obtained,  embracing 
the  Lake  of  Egeri  and  Morgarten  (p.  900).  —  In  the  pretty  valley  of  the 
Lorze,  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Zug,  is  the  well-conducted  sanitary  establish- 
ment of  Sehdnbrunn  (water-cure). 

The  Lake  of  Zug  (13()8'),  9  M.  long,  3  M.  wide,  and  1300' 
deep ,  is  very  picturesque.  Its  richly  wooded  banks  rise  gently 
to  a  moderate  height,  while  to  the  S.  towers  the  Rigi,  rising  pre- 
cipitously above  the  azure  waters  of  the  lake ,  and  here  visible 
from  base  to  summit.  The  broader  N.  end  of  the  lake  is  skirted 
by  the  railway  from  Zug  to  Lucerne  (p.  35). 

Soon  after  the  departure  of  the  steamer  from  Zug ,  Pilatus 
appears  on  the  S.W.,  and  then  to  the  S.E.  the  Ross-Stock  and 
the  Frohnalp.  On  a  promontory  on  the  W.  bank  stands  the  small 
chateau  of  Buonas^  on  the  E.  bank  lie  the  village  of  Obenvyl 
and  the  houses  of  Otterachwyl  and  Eyelenegg.  At  the  N.W.  end 
of  the  lake  the  church-tower  of  Cham  (p.  35)  glitters  across  the 
plain.  On  the  W.  bank,  farther  on ,  the  wooded  promontory  of 
Kiemen  projects  far  into  the  lake.  The  steamer  touches  at  stat. 
Walchtoyl  on  the  E.  bank ,  near  the  prettily  situated  village  of 
that  name,  and  then  crosses  to  Immeniee  (*H6tel  Rigiy  R.  17-2^ 
B.  1,  Pension  4 — 5  fr.),  pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
N.  spur  of  t'he  Rigi.  Travellers  to  Lucerne  disembark  here  (see 
below).     Ascent  of  the  Rigi,  see  p.  64. 

As  the  steamer  proceeds,  8t.  Adrian  is  seen  in  the  distance 
on  the  £.  bank,  at  the  foot  of  the  Rossberg  (see  p.  57),  which 
on  this  side  is  wooded,  and  sprinkled  with  chalets.  As  Arth  is 
approached,  one  of  the  Mythen,  near  Schwyz  (p.  5H),  peeps  from 
behind  the  Rossberg. 

Arth  (1364')  (*Adler;  *H6tel  du  Rigi;  R.  IV2,  B.  IV2,  D.  3, 
A.  Y2  f'*  i  Schliisael)  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  between  the 
Rigi  and  the  Rossberg,  but  not  exposed  to  the  land-slips  of  the 
latter,  the  strata  of  which  dip  in  another  direction.  The  Churchy 
erected  in  1677,  contains  a  silver  cup  and  vase  captured  at  the 
battle  of  Grandson  in  1476  (p.  173).  The  churchyard  resembles 
that  at  Baar  (p.  48). 

Pedestrian*  are  recommended  to  ascend  the  Rigi  from  Arth  (p.  63). 
Those  who  prefer  the  route  from  Goldau  (p.  61),  should  proceed  thither 
by  the  omnibus  which  awaits  the  arrival  of  the  steamboat  (20  min.,  fare 
30  c).  These  two  paths  unite  near  the  Unteres  Dachli  (p.  63).  From  Arth 
to  Goldau,  see  p.  57.  —  Diligence  from  Arth  twice  daily,  on  the  arrival  of 
the  steamer,  to  Brvnnen  via  Scftwyz  in  2  hrs.  (fare  2  fr.  40  c,  see  p.  5G), 
corresponding  with  the  steamer  from  Brunnen  to  Pliielen,  which  also  cor- 
responds with  the  diligence  over  the  St.  Gotthard  (R.  22). 


BiBOBKKK,  Switzerland.   6th  Edition. 


50     RouU  18.  KUSSNACHT. 

Travellers  to  Lucerne  And  an  omnibus  at  Immensee  (see 
above)  ready  to  start  for  Kiissuacbt  (20  min.)  on  the  arrival  of 
the  steamboat.  The  road  ascends  slightly  from  Immensee  to  the 
inn  Zur  Eiche,  where  a  road  to  Arth  diverges  to  the  1.  It  then 
descends  to  the  'Hohle  Gasse'  or  'chemin  creux.'  (see  Schiller's 
Toll),  1  M.  from  Immensee,  and  1^2  ^-  from  Kiissnacht,  at  the 
entrance  to  which  stands  Toll's  Chapel  (1584^),  adorned  with  a 
fresco  over  the  door  representing  the  death  of  Gessler,  with  an 
inscription.   (The  broad  path  opposite  leads  to  the  Rigi,  see  p.  64.) 

The  'Hohle  Gasse'  (hollow  lane)  was  partially  filled  up  on 
the  construction  of  the  new  road,  but  at  one  point,  where  it  is 
shaded  by  overhanging  trees ,  the  name  is  still  appropriate.  A 
crumbling  fragment  of  wall  on  a  wooded  hill  to  the  1.,  8/4  M. 
from  Kiissnacht,  is  said  to  be  a  relic  of  Oesslers  Castle,  destroyed 
in  1308. 

KfisBnacht  (14330  (*H6tel  du  Lac,  R.  2—3,  B.  1,  D.  3, 
Pension  5 — 6  fr. :  *Schwarzer  Adler;  Rossli;  Tell),  a  village  at 
the  N.  end  of  the  N.E.  arm  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  lies  at  the 
foot  of  the  Rigi  (ascended  hence  in  3^2  hrs.,  p.  64).  Guides  and 
horses,  see  p.  59. 

The  Steamboat y  on  leaving  Kiissnacht,  skirts  the  beauti- 
ful wooded  slopes  of  the  Rigi,  touches  at  Greppen  (Rigi  route, 
see  p.  64),  and  turns  to  the  r.  to  the  village  of  Meggen  (*Pen'- 
sion  Qottlieben,  beautifully  situated  Y2  M.  from  the  lake,  suitable 
for  a  prolonged  stay,  pension  5 — 6  fr.,  carr.  to  Lucerne  3  fr.). 
Opposite  the  traveller  rise  the  pinnacles  of  Pilatus.  On  a  slight 
eminence  stands  the  picturesque  chiteau  of  Neu-Habsburg ,  and 
beyond  it  the  old  tower  of  the  castle  of  that  name,  destroyed  by 
the  inhabitants  of  Lucerne  in  1352,  where  Rudolph,  Count  of 
Ilapsburg,  and  afterwards  fttoperor  of  Germany,  frequently  resided. 
The  incident  which  induced  Rudolph  to  present  his  horse  to  the 
priest  is  said  to  have  taken  place  here  (see  Schiller's  ballad  'The 
Count  of  Habsburg'). 

To  the  I.,  beyond  the  Rigi,  the  snowy  Urner  and  Engelberger 
Alps  soon  come  in  sight.  Farther  on,  as  the  centre  of  the  cross 
formed  by  the  four  arms  of  the  lake  is  approached,  the  view 
becomes  very  imposing  in  every  direction.  The  steamboat  rounds 
the  islet  (r.)  of  Altstad  and  the  promontory  of  Meggenhorn  (p.  70), 
beyond  which  Luoeme,  situated  at  the  end  of  the  N.W.  bay  of 
the  lake,  suddenly  comes  in  sight. 

19.    Lucerne  and  Pilatus. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  68. 

HoteU.  ^ScHWEizEKHOF  (PI.  a),  a  spacious  hotel  with  two  ^dcpendanccs'', 
and  *LuzERNEU  Hok  (PI.  b),  both  on  the  qway^  *H6tel  National,  on  the 
Kiissnacht  road;  charges  at  these  three,  R.  from  3  fr.,  L.  and  A.  2  tr., 
B.  I'lz,  D.  4-5  fr. ;  Hotel  Stadthof,  near  the  quay  ^  *En6lischer  Hof 


LUCERNE.  19.  RouU.     51 

(PL  c);  *ScBWAN  (PI.  d),  Jl.  3,  L.  and  A.  i%  B.  lij,,  D.  4  fr.^  ^Uutkl 
DU  Rioi  (PI.  e),  adjoining  the  last ;  ^Hotxl  ou  Lac  (PI.  g),  tm  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Reu88,  R.  2—3,  B.  Iif4,  D.  3,  L.  and  A.  Iif4  fr. ;  ^Hotbl  i>u  8t.  Qott- 
HAKD,  with  restaurant,  R.  2^|3,  B.  li|4,  D.  3,  A.  'j«  fr.  ^  the  two  last  near 
the  station;  ^Balancbs  (PI.  f).  R.  2—3,  B.  I'ji,  D.  3,  A.  »U  fr. :  ^Bkaukivaqk 
(PI.  d),  prettily  situated  on  tne  Kiissnacht  road.  —  The  daily  influx  of 
travellers  at  Lucerne  is  so  great  in  summer  that  the  solitary  tourist  often 
receives  little  attention  in  the  Ist,  or  even  the  2nd  class  hotels.  The  Adlxe 
(PI.  h),  R.  i^lt  fr.,  B.  1  fr.,  A.  ^ja  fr.,  and  the  Rossli  (Pl.i),  newly  fitted  up, 
are  therefore  mentioned  as  respectable,  though  unpretending.  —  ^Hotel  dk 
LA  Posts  (PL  k);  HdrsL  des  Alpks  (PL  n),  ^Hohb,  Hiusuh,  ^Kronk, 
Kbbuz,  and  ^W^jDbbMann,  all  of  moderate  pretensions. 

FenaiOBs  (compTTIa^^almost  all  well  conducted).  fToWey,  in  the  town, 
by  the  Peterscapclle ;  Kau/mann;  Morell;  Faller;  Cfiristen;  AfUller;  Tivoli 
(with  restaurant  and  baths);  *Belveder€ ;  farther  on,  *8eeburff.  All  these 
are  on  the  Kiissnacht  road,  close  to  the  lake.  Then  Waldit^  near  the  Lion 
monument;  Chalet  du  lAon^  in  a  shady  situation,  above  the  monument; 
FiUger,  on  the  Felsberg;  Rauch^  to  the  E.  of  the  Hofkirche;  adjoining  it, 
Bellevue  and  Ifeu- Schweizerhaus.  *Pension  WallU  on  the  OUtach;  Victoria^ 
Gibraltar,  and  Sitter  on  the  hill  of  Oibraltar  (see  below).  Still  higher,  1  hr. 
to  the  S.  of  Lucerne  (beginning  of  route,  see  PL  A,  3),  Curhavs  Sonnenberff^ 
on  the  hill  of  that  name,  with  pleasant  grounds  and  a  fine  view.  —  Pension 
Blattler  in  the  Rozloch  (p.  90)  on  the  Alpnacher  See.  Charges  at  all  these 
6—7  fr.  a  day  and  upwards. 

Oafes.  Cafi  StadtAo/jne&T  the  Schweizerhof-Quay ;  Ca/i  du  Lac.  by  the 
Protestant  church,  ices  80  c;  Hdtel  des  Alpes,  on  the  quay;  St.  Ootthard 
(see  above)  and  Ca/4  du  ThMtre,  both  near  the  station ;  Alpenelub,  by  the 
Beussbriicke.  —  Beer.  Muth,  at  the  Waggis  Gate;  *Freienhof^  by  the 
theatre,  near  the  Capellbriicke,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Reuss;  Iyengar  ten, 
near  the  Lion  Monument. 

Baths  in  the  Reuss,  below  the  town,  with  swimming-basin,  and  in  the 
lake,  near  the  Tivoli  (see  above).  Warm  baths  at  the  lAndenhof  and 
LHwengarten.  Turkish  and  vapour  baths  at  the  new  establishment  adjoining 
the  Stadthof  (p.  53). 

■eyer's  Diorama  (PL  15),  at  the  Waggis  Oate,  contains  panoramas 
from  the  Rigi  and  Pilatus  with  different  lights  (adm.  lija  fr.). 

Bailway  Station  (PL  E,  5)  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  lake.  The  steamboats 
to  Fluelen  generally  stop  here  after  their  departure  from  the  Schweizerhof- 
Quay;  those  coming  from  Fluelen  touch  first  at  the  station,  and  then  at 
the  quay. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offtoea  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Reuss,  by  the  Jesuiten- 
kirche.  Branch  Office  on  the  Schwei/.erhof-Quay,  adjoining  the  Engl.  Hof, 
where  there  is  also  a  goods-agency  and  exchange  office. 

Steamboats  see  p.  68. 

Oaba.    For  1(4  hr.   1—2  pers.  60  c. ,  3—4  pers.    1  fr.  20  c. ;  for  1  hr. 

2  or  3  fr. ;  2  hrs.  3  fr.  60  or  5  fr.  40  c. ;  each  box  30  c.  -  To  the  Gutsch 

3  or  5  fr. ;  Seeburg  I  fr.  20  or  1  fr.  80  c. ;  Meggen  3  fr.  or  4  fr.  20  c. ; 
Kiissnacht  6  fr.  or  8  fr.  40  c. ;  Hergiswyl  h}\z  or  6  fr.  —  From  10  p.  m.  to 
6  a.  m.  double  fares. 

Bowiag-boata  f  according  to  tariff,  75  c.  per  hr. ;  for  each  boatman 
75  c. ;  to  Wdggi*  or  Stansstad  with  two  men  4>f2  fr.,  3  men  6  fr.,  4  men 
71  jz  fr. ;  Brunnen  with  3  men  12  fr.,  with  4  men  15  fr.,  &c. 

Beyond  the  loveliness  of  its  situation,  Thorvaldsen's  celebrated  monu- 
noent  (p.  53),  and  the  Arsenal  (p.  53),  there  is  little  at  Lucerne  to  induce 
a  prolonged  stay.  The  following  walks  are  recommended :  to  the  W.  to  the 
*GUtsch  (Restaurant),  from  the  Bale  Gate  a  steep  ascent  of  'I*  hr. ,  or  to 
Gibraltar  (pensions,  see  above);  to  the  S.  by  the  avenue  to  (»(«  hr.)  Kriens 
(*Pilatu8),  at  the  8.  base  of  the  Sonnenberg  (see  above);  to  the  N.  to  Allen- 
winden,  'I4  hr.  from  the  quay;  but  above  all  to  the  *Dr ex  Linden,  >(4  hr.  to 
the  E.  of  the  town,  not  far  from  the  Capuchin  Monastery  on  the  Wetemlin 
(the  library  of  which  contains  some  old  MS8.  and  early  typography),  com- 

4» 


52     RouU  IP.  LUCERNE.  tiapeUhnieke. 

manding  a  fine  view  of  Lucerne ,  its  environs ,  abd  the  distant  mountain 
chain,  with  the  snow-capped  Titiis  in  the  centre,  and  the  Finster-Aarhorn 
and  the  Schreckhomer  in  the  extreme  distance  to  the  r. 

Sngliah  Ohnrch  and  Presbyterian  service  during  the  summer  months. 

Laoeme  (1437Q,  the  capital  of  the  canton,  \vith  14,524  inhab. 
(1291  Prot.),  is  situated  on  the  Reuss  where  it  emerges  from 
the  lake.  The  well-preserved  walls  and  nine  watch-towers  en- 
closing the  town,  which  were  erected  in  1385,  give  the  place  an 
imposing  appearance,  while  its  amphitheatrical  situation  on  the 
lake,  between  the  Rigi  and  Pilatus,  and  facing  the  snow-clad 
Urner  and  Engelberger  Alps,    invests  it  with  a  peculiar  charm. 

The  clear,  emerald-green  Reuas  issues  from  the  lake  with  the 
swiftness  of  a  mountain-torrent.  Its  banks  are  connected  by  four 
bridges.  The  Kene  Bruoke,  the  highest,  a  broad  iron  bridge 
paved  with  stone,  close  to  the  end  of  the  lake,  crosses  from  the 
town  to  the  railway-station.  The  second,  the  Capellbrfteke,  carried 
obliquely  across  the  stream,  is  covered  with  a  roof,  which  is 
decorated  with  154  paintings,  representing  scenes  from  the  lives 
of  St.  Leodegar  and  St.  Mauritius,  the  patron  saints  of  Lucerne, 
and  events  from  Swiss  history.  Adjoining  the  bridge ,  in  the 
middle  of  the  river,  rises  the  picturesque  old  WaBaerthnrm, 
which  contains  the  admirably  arranged  Archives  of  the  town. 
According  to  tradition,  this  building  was  once  a  lighthouse 
flucernajj  and  gave  its  name  to  the  town.  St.  Peter's  Chapel 
(PI.  11),  at  the  N.  end  of  the  bridge,  possesses  four  modern 
•Altar-pieces  by  Paul  Deschwanden. 

The  third  bridge,  the  Bensibriioke,  is  constructed  in  a  more 
modern  style.  The  fourth,  the  Mfthlen-  or  Spreuerbracke,  is  roofed 
like  the  first,  and  adorned  with  paintings  of  the  'Dance  of  Death'. 

The  *Schweizerhof-Qaay,   with  its  handsome  hotels  and  fine 

avenue  of  chestnuts,  now  occupies  what  was  once  an  arm  of  the 

lake  (tilled  up  in  1852).    The  semicircular  stone  indicator  on  the 

parapet  serves  to  point  out  the  principal  points  in  the  environs. 

View.  To  the  1.  the  beautiful  Rigi  Group;  the  highest  point  to  the  I. 
is  the  Ktilm  with  its  hotel ;  on  the  ridge  between  the  Kulm  and  the  Roth- 
stock  is  the  Staffel  Inn;  farther  to  the  r.  the  Schild^  the  Dossetty  and  the 
isolated  Vitznauer  Stock.  To  the  1.  of  the  Rigi-group ,  above  the  hills  by 
the  lake,  rises  the  peak  of  the  Rossberg;  to  the  r.  of  the  Vitznauer  Stock, 
in  the  distance,  are  the  singularly  indented  peaks  of  the  Ross- Stock  chain; 
then  the  Nieder-Bauen  or  Seelisberger  Kulm^  and  the  Ober-Bauen;  nearer 
is  the  dark  Bilrgenstock ^  and  the  Buoehser  Horn;  to  the  1.  and  r.  of  the 
latter,  tower  the  snowy  Engelberg  Alps^  the  last  and  highest  to  the  r.  being 
the  Titiis;  farther  to  the  r.  the  Stanserhom^  the  mountains  of  Kerns  and 
Sachselny  and  to  the  extreme  r.  Pilatus. 

The  Protestant  Chureh  (PI.  10),  at  the  back  of  the  W.  'de- 
pendance'  of  the  Schweizerhof,  is  a  Gothic  edifice,  completed  in  1861. 

On  a  slight  eminence  at  the  E.  end  of  the  quay  stands  the 
*Hof-  or  Stifts-Kirche  {V\.  8)  of  the  17th  cent.,  with  two  slender 
towers  erected  in  150b.  This  church  contains  a  celebrated  or- 
gan (performance  daily,  6^2 — 7^2  P*  m. ,  except  Saturdays  and 


Lion.  LUCERNE.  19.  BouU.     53 

the  eves  of  festivals;  adm.  1  fr.),  fine  pulpit,  carved  stalls,  some 
stained-glass  windows,  and  two  handsome  side  altars  with  reliefs 
in  carved  wood,  of  which  that  on  the  N.  side  dates  from  the 
15th  cent.,  and  represents  the  death  of  the  Virgin.  The  Church^ 
yard  contains  some  good  monuments.  Frescoes  in  the  S.W.  ar- 
cades by  Deschwanden. 

Not  far  from  this  church  (footpath  to  the  1.,  towards  the  N.), 
outside  the  (N.E.)  Waggis  Gate,  and  ^4  M-  ^^o^  ^be  Schweizer- 
hof,  is  the  celebrated  *Lioii  of  Lneeme  (PI.  14),  executed  in 
1821  to  the  memory  of  26  officers  and  about  760  soldiers  of  the 
Swiss  guard,  who  fell  in  the  defence  of  the  Tuileries  on  10th 
Aug.,  1792.  The  dying  lion  (28'  in  length),  reclining  in  a 
grotto,  transfixed  by  a  broken  lance,  and  sheltering  the  Bourbon 
lily  with  its  paw,  is  hewn  out  of  the  natural  sandstone  rock 
after  a  model  (exhibited  gratis  in  the  adjoining  building)  by  the 
celebrated  Danish  sculptor  Thorvaldsen.  Inscription:  Helvetiorum 
fidei  ae  virtuti.  Die  X  Aug.^  II  et  II J  Sept.  1792.  Haee  sunt  nomina 
eorum,  qui  ne  8€Kramenti  fidem  fallerent,  fortissime  pugnantes  ce- 
eiderunt.  Duces  XXVI.  Solerti  amicorum  cura  cladi  superfuerunt 
Duces  XVI.  The  rock  which  bears  the  inscription  and  names 
of  the  officers  is  overhung  with  trees  and  creeping  plants.  A 
spring  at  the  top  flows  down  on  one  side  and  forms  a  dark  pool 
at  the  base,  surrounded  by  trees  and  shrubs.  This  work  is  ex- 
tremely impressive,  and  affords  a  proof  that  in  true  art  the 
simplest  idea  carried  out  by  a  master-hand  never  fails  in  its 
effect.  The  neighbouring  Chapel  (inscription,  Invictis  Pax),  con- 
tains the  escutcheons  of  the  deceased  officers.  The  custodian 
was  present  at  the  fatal  struggle  as  a  young  drummer. 

Stauifer'i  Museam  (PI.  25)  near  the  Lion  (adm.  1  fr.)  con- 
tains about  600  stuffed  Alpine  animals  in  groups.  Opposite  the 
monument  is  the  Oloticherg«rten,  where  traces  of  glacier  action 
have  recently  been  discovered,  containing  a  number  of  'Riesen- 
topfe',  etc.  (visitors  admitted). 

The  large  fialiof  (PI.  20;  adm.  1  fr.),  in  a  building  adjoining 
the  Caf^  du  Lac,  represents  ancient  Switzerland  with  Lucerne 
in  the  centre,  on  a  scale  of  15  inches  to  the  mile. 

The  *ArMiua  (PI.  30),  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Reuss,  near  the 
Miihlen-Briicke,  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  Switzerland  (fee 
50  G.  to  1  fr.).  On  the  ground  floor  are  canuons  with  their 
equipments ;  from  the  celling  is  suspended  a  long  Turkish  banner, 
captured  at  Tunis  in  1640  by  a  knight  of  the  Maltese  order.  The 
two  small  Turkish  flags  near  it  were  taken  by  soldiers  of  Lucerne 
in  the  battle  of  Lepanto  (1571).  Stained  glass  of  the  16th  and 
17th  cent.,  including  the  arms  of  the  13  ancient  confederate 
towns.    The  first  floor  contains  weapons  for  the  cantonal  militia. 

The  Charoh  of  the  JesuitB  (PI.  9),  near  the  Post-office,  is 
a  good  specimen  of  the  style  peculiar  to  the  order.    The  second 


54     Route  19.  PILATUS. 

chapel  to  the  r.  contains  an  altar-piece,  representing  St.  Nikolaus 
von  der  Fine  (p.  103),  behind  which  is  preserved  the  robe  of 
the  saint. 

The  Town  Hall  (PI.  1)  is  adorned  with  beautiful  carved 
work,  executed  in  1605  by  a  native  of  Breslau,  and  portraits  of 
magistrates.  A  fresco  on  the  tower  is  adorned  with  a  fresco 
representing  the  death  of  the  bailifiF  Gundolflngen  at  the  Battle 
of  Sempach.  The  Fountain  in  the  Weinmarkt  (PI.  14)  dates 
from  1481. 


Filatns. 


Pilatus  is  ascended  from  Hergiswyl  or  from  Alpnach.  Steamboat  3  times 
daily  to  Hergiswyl  in  35  min.  (fares  1  fr.  40,  80  c),  to  Alpnach-Gestad  in 
li|4  hr.  (fares  2  fr.,  1  fr.  20  c).  Description  of  the  route,  see  p.  89.  Two- 
horse  carr.  from  the  railway -station  at  Lucerne  to  Hei^iswyl  in  1  hr., 
1—2  pers.  4>J2,  3 — 4  pers.  6  fr. 

From  Hergiswyl  to  the  Hotel  Klimsenhom  by  the  bridle  path  in 
3i|2  hrs.  (down  in  2>|8  hrs.),  whence  the  Klimsenhom  may  be  ascended  on 
foot  in   10  min.,  the  Tomlishorn  in  3(4  hr.,  and  the  Esel  also  in  ^\a  hr. 

From  Alpnach  (p.  90)  to  the  Bellevue  Hotel  by  the  bridle-path  in 
4il2  hrs.  (down  in  31J2  hrs.);  thence  to  the  top  of  the  Esel  in  8  min.  — 
Tne  path  from  Hergiswyl  is  shaded  in  the  afternoon,  that  from  Alpnach 
in  the  forenoon.  The  former  is  recommended  for  the  ascent  \  the  latter  for 
the  descent,  as  it  affords  a  succession  of  fine  views  of  the  Sarner  Thai 
and  the  Unterwalden  Mts. 

Porters  from  Hergiswyl  to  the  top  3 ,  Horse  (without  luggage)  12  fr.  \ 
Chaise-d-porteurs  20  fr.  \  from  Alpnach  same  charges.  Qvides  on  b()th  routes 
unnecessary. 

Hotels.  ^Klimsbnhobn,  at  the  foot  of  the  peak  of  that  name,  R.  2, 
B.  1>J4,  D.  2,  Pension  6  fr.,  good  beer  (at  the  back  of  the  hotel  a  small 
garden  with  Alpine  plants);  ^Bellevue  on  the  ridge  between  Oberhaupt 
and  Esel,  with  uninterrupted  view  towards  the  E. ,  R.  2M2,  L.  W2,  A.  »|2, 
8.  3,  B.  li|2  fr. 

*PilatnBy  the  lofty  mountain  to  the  S.W.  of  Lucerne,  rises 
boldly  in  a  rugged  and  imposing  mass,  almost  isolated  from  the 
surrounding  heights.  The  W.  and  N.  portions  belong  to  the  Can- 
ton of  Lucerne,  the  E.  and  S.  to  Unterwalden.  The  lower 
slopes  are  clothed  with  beautiful  pastures  and  forests,  while  the 
upper  part  consists  of  wild  and  serrated  cliffs  from  which  its  an- 
cient name  Ftaetus  Mona  (broken  mountain)  is  derived.  The 
names  'Fracmont',  'Frakmund',  have  in  later  times  been  occa- 
sionally applied  to  it,  but  the  name  Pilatus  (mofu  piltaius,  the 
capped  mountain)  came  into  general  use  about  the  close  of  last 
century.  The  names  of  the  separate  peaks  from  W.  to  £.  are 
the  Mittaggiipfi  or  Onepfstein  (6299'),  the  Rothe-Totten  (6893'), 
the  Widderfeld  (6824',  the  most  barren  of  the  summits),  the 
TonUUhom  (6998'),  the  GemsmatUi  (6732'),  to  the  S.  the  MaU- 
horn  (6693'),  to  the  N.  the  Klimstnhom  (6266',  which  when  seen 
from  Lucerne  appears  the  farthest  to  the  W.),  in  the  centre  the 
Oberhaupt,  then  the  Esel  (6965',  the  most  frequently  ascended), 
and  finally  the  Sieigli-Egg  (6486').     Pilatus,  which  was  formerly 


PILATUS.  19.  RouU.     55 

one  of  the  best-known  of  the  Swiss  mountains,  was  for  many  years 
almost  entirely  superseded  by  the  Rigl,  but  it  has  recently  again 
become   one   of  the   most  popular  points  of  view  in  Switzerland. 

Afcent.  From  Hergiswyl  (*Kossli),  a  village  at  the  E. 
base  of  Pilatus,  the  easy  bridle-path  constructed  by  Uerr  Blattler 
of  Rozloch  (p.  90)  in  1855  —  58  cannot  be  mistaken  (to  the 
Hotel  Klimsenhorn  31/2  hrs.).  Near  the  Rossli  it  ascends  to  the 
r.  past  the  church ,  leading  at  first  through  orchards  and  mea- 
dows, and  then  through  wood.  At  (IY4  hr.)  Brunni  a  small 
inn;  5  min.  farther,  a  bench  shaded  by  pines,  commanding  a 
beautiful  survey  of  the  lake;  at  {J/2  hr.)  the  Gsehwand-Alp  a 
second  bench  with  fine  view.  At  a  hut  (1/2  ^r.)  the  path  turns 
at  an  acute  angle  towards  the  S.  (the  path  straight  on  leads  to 
the  Frakmund  chalets)  and  ascends  in  long  zigzags  over  rocky 
slopes  and  rubble,  passing  several  refuge-huts,  to  the  {i^/4  hr.) 
Hotel  Blattler  J  or  Klimsenkomy  situated  on  the  Joch  (5935', 
higher  than  the  Rigi-Kulm),  which  connects  the  Oberhaupt  with 
the  Klimsenhorn. 

From  the  hotel  the  traveller  may  walk  in  10  min.  to  the 
summit  of  the  *Kliiiui6nhom  (6266^,  which  affords  an  extensive 
and  picturesque  prospect  towards  the  E.,  N.,  and  W.,  from  the 
mountains  of  Uri  and  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  to  the  vicinity  of 
Freiburg  and  the  Lake  of  Neuchatel.  The  view  to  the  S.  is 
hidden  by  the  loftier  peaks  of  Pilatus.  —  The  ^TomliBhorn 
(6998')  may  be  ascended  from  the  hotel  in  ^/^  hr.  by  a  new, 
but  badly  kept  path,  which  at  first  descends  to  the  rock- 
strewn  Kastelenalp  on  the  W.  slope,  and  then  mounts  towards 
the  S.W.,  where  it  is  hewn  in  the  solid  rock  at  places.  It 
finally  leads  through  a  steep  gully  by  means  of  wooden  steps  to 
the  ridge  which  conneots  the  Tomlishorn  with  the  QemsmdtUi 
(6732'),  and  thence  towards  the  W.  to  the  snmmit.  The  view 
is  little  inferior  to  that  from  the  Esel ,  but  those  who  intend  to 
ascend  one  peak  only  will  naturally  prefer  the  latter  as  it  com- 
mands a  more  complete  panorama. 

A  well-constructed  zigzag  path  ascends  in  Y2  ^'-  ^''o™  ^^^  Hotel 
Klimsenhorn,  traversing  the  barren  stony  slopes  of  the  Oberhaupt, 
to  the  Krisiloch,  an  aperture  in  the  rock  somewhat  resembling  a 
chimney,  20  feet  in  height,  through  which  wooden  steps  ascend 
to  the  ridge  between  the  Oberhaupt  and  the  Esel.  A  *vlew  of 
the  Bernese  Alps  is  suddenly  disclosed  here.  The  path  then 
leads  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  Hotel  Bellevue^  to  which  the 
Alpnach  route  ascends,  and  thence  in  8  min.  more  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  •Esel  (6965'). 

The  **View  from  this  point  resembles  that  from  the  Rigi,  but  sur- 
passes it  in  grandeur,  the  Bernese  Alps  being  nearer  and  mure  conspicu- 
ous (from  K.  to.W.  the  Finsteraarhorn,  Schreckhorner,  Wetterhornor, 
Moncb,  Eiger,  and  Jungfrau  ^  then  the  Tschingelhorn,  Gspaltenhorn, 
Blumlisalp,  Doldenhorn,  and  Balmhorn).  Towards  the  N.  and  E.  the 
Lake   of  Lucerne    is   visible    from    Lucerne  to  Brunnen,    flanked   by   the 


56     BouU  19.  PILATUS. 

Bigi,  Biirgenstock,  and  the  Buochser  and  Stanser  Horns,  and  its  cruciform 
shape  is  distinctly  traced.  Immediately  in  the  foreground  are  the  wild 
and  furrowed  rocky  pinnacles  of  Pilatus  itself,  below  which  are  green 
pastures.  The  higher  Tomlishorn  intercepts  the  view  towards  the  W. 
(A  good  panorama  is  sold  by  Schwegler  at  Lucerne.) 

From  Alpnach  (^p.  90).  The  bridle-path  (41/2  h'S-)  which 
cannot  be  mistaken,  crosses  the  KleineSchlierenbach,  &  little  hey ond. 
the  village,  to  Im  Orund,  and  ascends  through  pastures  (picturesque 
waterfall  in  the  ravine  to  the  r.)  and  wood  to  the  (2  hrs.)  chalets  of 
Liitholdsmatt  (3769')  (refreshments).  It  turns  to  the  E.  here,  leads 
past  the  chalets  of  Schwdndi  and  Hinter-Frakmiind,  between  the 
slopes  of  the  Widderfeld  and  the  Tomlishorn  on  the  1.  and  those  of 
the  Matthorn  on  the  r.,  and  finally  ascends  in  zigzags  across  stony 
detritus  to  the  Hotel  Bellevue.  —  Those  who  make  the  ascent  from 
Alpnach-Gestad  nieed  not  proceed  as  far  as  Alpnach,  but  ascend  to 
the  r,  from  Gestad  hy  a  path  which  joins  the  bridle-path  from  Alp- 
nach about  Y2  ^^*  ahove  the  latter.  (This  should  also  be  observed 
by  those  who  wish  to  descend  to  Gestad.) — A  direct  path  from  Alp- 
nach-Gestad to  the  Esel  across  the  Emsigen-Alp  is  expected  to  be 
completed  in  1873. 

The  Rigi  possesses  a  decided  advantage  over  Pilatus  in  frequently 
enjoying  clear  and  sunny  weather  while  its  rival  is  enveloped  in  fog. 
Every  storm  approaching  from  the  N.  or  W.  is  attracted  by  the  pin- 
nacles of  the  latter,  which  constitute  an  advanced  outpost  of  the 
Alpine  chain,  and  shrouds  them  in  dense  clouds. 

Pilatus   is   the   popular   and    generally    trustworthy    barometer 
of  the  district.     An  old  saying  runs  thus : 

If  Pilatus  wears  his  cap,  serene  will  be  the  day; 

If  his  collar  he  puts  on,  you  may  venture  on  the  way; 

But  if  his  sword  he  wields,  at  home  you'd  better  stay ! 

If  the   summit  is  free  from  clouds  and  fog  in  the  morning, 

the  weather  cannot  be  depended  on;  but  if  shrouded  in  fog  till 

midday,  a  fine  afternoon  may  be  expected. 

Many  legends  are  connected  with  the  Pilatus,  especially  with  its  caverns 
(the  Mondloch  below  the  Tomlisalp,  and  the  Dominikhohle  above  the 
Briindlisalp)  and  its  Lake  (to  the  S.  W.  of  the  Klimsenhom).  One  of  the. 
oldest,  and  at  the  same  time  most  groundless,  is,  that  when  Pontius  Pilate 
was  banished  from  Galilee,  he  fled  hither,  and  in  the  bitterness  of  his 
remorse,  precipitated  himself  into  this  lake. 

20.    From  Lucerne  to  Brunnen  by  Kiissnaoht, 

Arth,  and  Schwyz. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  68. 

Steamboat  from  Lucerne  to  Kiissnacht  in  50  min ;  Diligence  from 
Kiissnacht  to  Arth  in  1  hr.,  or  Omnibus  in  20  min.  to  Tmmensee,  and 
thence  by  steamboat  to  Arth  in  25  min.  Diligence  from  Arth  to  Schwyz 
in  I'l'i,  to  Brunnen  in  2  hrs. 

Steamboat  from  Lucerne  to  Kiissnacht,  see  p.  50. 

The  High  Road  from  Lucerne  to  Kiissnacht  first  follows  ihe  N.  bank  of  the 
lake,  in  view  of  the  Bernese  and  Engelberg  Alps*,  it  then  recedes  a  little, 
beyond  the  Pension  Seeburg  (p.  51),  in  order  to  cut  ofl'  the  angle  formed  by 


GOLDAU.  20,  BouU,     57 

the  baya  of  Lucerne  and  Ktisnacht.  As  the  latter  bay  is  approached,  the 
chateau  of  Neu-Habtburg  (p.  50)  is  seen  on  the  r.  The  villages  of  Meggen 
(1512')  (p.  50)  and  MiHrtisehaehen  (1157')  are  next  passed. 

5  M.  Kftttnaeht,  and  thence  by  the  'Hohle  Gasse'  and  Toll's 
Chapel  to  the  inn  'ZurEiche',  see  p.  48.  The  Immensee  road 
here  turns  to  the  1.,  the  Arth  road  to  the  r.  The  latter  skirts 
the  foot  of  the  extreme  N.  slopes  of  the  Rigi,  and  then  leads 
along  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake  of  Zug,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  lake  and  the  opposite  Rossberg  (comp.  p.  49). 

5V4  M.  Arth  (1364')  see  p.  49  (Rigi-path  see  p.  63).  On 
approaching  Ooldan  (li/g  M.)  (•-Bowli,  R.  IV2,  B.  1,  S.  2^2  fr), 
traces  of  the  disastrous  landslip  of  the  Rossberg,  which  com- 
pletely bnried  this  large  and  prosperous  village  in  1806,  are  still 
observable.  Two  tablets  of  black  marble  on  the  exterior  of  the 
church  (erected  in  1849,  almost  on  the  same  site  as  the  old 
edifice),  record  the  names  of  some  of  the  Ill-fated  villagers,  and 

a  brief  notice  of  the  catastrophe. 

Goldau  Landslip.  The  Rujl^  or  Rossberg  (51410,  which  rises  above  the 
village  of  Goldau,  is  composed,  like  the  Rigi,  of  'Nagelflue',  a  conglomerate 
consisting  chiefly  of  rounded  limestone  and  flint  pebbles  imbedded  in  a 
calcareous  cement.  This  rock,  itself  extremely  hard,  is  frequently  inter- 
stratified  with  layers  of  sand,  which  are  disintegrated  by  exposure  to 
the  weather,  or  eroded  by  subterranean  waters,  so  that  the  solid  superin- 
cumbent strata,  being  deprived  of  their  support^are  from  time  to  time 
precipitated  into  the  valley.  The  summer  of  1806  had  been  very  rainy. 
On  2nd  Sept.,  about  5  p.m.,  one  of  these  strata,  lOOCK  in  length  and  KX^  in 
thickness,  was  precipitated  from  a  height  of  dOOff  into  the  valley  below, 
swallowing  up  four  villages  with  about  5(X)  of  their  Inhabitants,  and  con- 
verting the  smiling  landscape  into  a  scene  of  desolation.  It  filled  up  about 
one-fourth  of  the  Lake  of  Lowerz,  the  sudden  rise  of  which  occasioned  new 
disasters.  The  anniversary  of  this  event  is  commemorated  by  a  religious 
ceremony  at  Arth. 

The  high  road  traverses  part  of  this  scene  of  devastation, 
which  extends  from  the  summit  of  the  Rossberg  to  the  base  of, 
and  a  considerable  way  up  the  Rigi.  Time  has  covered  the  frag- 
ments of  rock  with  moss  and  other  vegetation,  and  pools  of 
stagnant  water  have  been  formed  between  them  at  places.  The 
track  of  the  landslip  may  be  distinctly  traced  on  the  side  of  the 
Rossberg,  which  is  still  entirely  barren. 

The  village  of  Lowen  (1519^  (Rossli;  Adler),  on  the  lake 
of  the  same  name,  A^/2  M.  from  Arth,  lost  its  church  and  some 
of  its  houses  in  the  same  catastrophe.  Driven  violently  from  its 
bed,  the  water  rose  like  a  wall  to  the  height  of  80',  inundating 
the  islands  of  Lowers  and  Schwanau,  and  sweeping  away  every- 
thing from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  lake.  The  ruined  castle  on 
the  island  of  Schwanau  is  said  to  have  been  destroyed  in  1308 
by  the  burghers  of  Schwyz. 

The  road  skirts  the  rocks  and  precipices  of  the  S.  bank  of 
the  lake.  The  boatmen  at  Lowerz  or  Seewen  will  convey  pedes- 
trians across  |he  lake  for  a  moderate  fare.  The  lake  is  3  M. 
long,  1^/2  M.  wide,  56'  only  in  depth,  and  is  entirely  frozen 
over  in  winter. 


58     Route  20.  SCHWYZ. 

Path  up  the  Rigi,  see  p.  63.  As  Schwyz  is  approached,  the 
scenery  hecomes  more  attractive.  Seewen  (1512Q  (*Ro88li;  Stemjy 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  lake,  possesses  a  chalybeate  spring  which 
attracts  visitors. 

Footpath  to  B  rutin  en  (3  M.  ^  pleasanter  than  the  Schwyz  road, 
and  liJ2  H.  shorter).  Follow  the  brook,  at  first  by  a  carriage-road  on  the 
r.  bank,  then  by  a  footpath  on  the  1.,  and  at  length  cross  the  Muotta  on 
a  long  and  narrow  bridge  of  planks.  At  Ingenhohl  (see  below)  the  high- 
road is  regained. 

Sohwyi  (1686')  (•iioMM,  R.  from  1  fr.,  B.  1  fr. ;  *H6i€l  Hediger, 
same  charges;  ^Hirsch,  R.  II/2J  B*  1  ^r*  5  ^ Pension  Jiitt,  72  M- 
from  the  town,  with  pleasant  view),  a  straggling  town  with 
6153  inhab.  (34  Prot.),  the  capital  of  the  canton,  is  picturesquely 
situated  at  the  base  and  on  the  slopes  of  the  Little  Mythe  (5954') 
with  its  two  peaks,  and  the  Great  Mythe  (6243').  During  the 
great  drought  of  August,  1800,  a  Are  broke  out  in  the  forests  on 
the  mountain,  and  raged  for  a  fortnight.  Since  then  the  red  and 
stony  sides  of  the  mountains  have  remained  bare.  The  Mythen 
are,  strictly  speaking,  points  of  the  Hacken;  but  the  latter  name  is 
generally  applied  to  that  part  of  the  mountain  only  which  slopes 
towards  Steinen,  and  which  is  crossed  by  a  footpath  to  (4  hrs.) 
Einsiedeln. 

The  ascent  of  the  *Oreat  Hythe  (6243')  has  been  greatly  facilitated  by 
the  construction  of  a  good  path  to  the  summit.  The  view  vies  with  those  from 
the  Rigi  and  Pilatus.  Guide  unnecessary.  The  somewhat  fatiguing  ascent 
from  Schwyz  by  St.  Joseph^  or  by  Rickenbaeh  (*H6tel  Bellevue,  also  a 
pension),  through  the  ravine,  and  by  the  pastures  'Hasle''  and  ^Holz'  (re- 
freshments) to  the  Holzegg  (dOKK,  small  inn,  3  beds),  occupies  1*|4  hr. 
(Another  path  leads  from  Brunnen  to  the  Holzegg  by  Ibach  and  Rickenbaeh 
in  2s|4  hrs.,  Schwyz  remaining  on  the  1.)-  —  Good  path  from  Einsiedeln  by 
Alpthal  to  the  Holzegg  in  2*1*  hrs.  —  By  the  new  path  from  the  Holzegg,  the 
summit  of  the  Mythen  is  attained  in  IIJ4  hr.  Small  inn  at  the  top.  (Jood 
panorama 'by  A.  Heim. 

Apart  from  its  picturesque  situation ,  Schwyz  presents  few 
objects  of  interest.  The  Parish  Churchy  completed  in  1774,  is 
considered  one  of  the  handsomest  in  Switzerland.  The  Town  HaU 
contains  the  portraits  of  43  landammanns  (magistrates)  from  1534 
downwards.  The  ceiling  of  the  council-chamber  is  adorned  with 
some  fine  old  carving  (fee  1/2  ^'O*  ^  relief  of  the  valley  of 
Muotta  is  exhibited  by  the  dyer  Schindler  (fee  1/2  ^'0* 

The  large  building  with  the  church  on  the  height,  originally 
destined  to  be  a  Jesuit  monastery,  is  now  a  grammar-school. 
Near  it  is  the  ancient  House  of  the  RedingSy  with  two  red 
towers,  adorned  with  the  family  escutcheon. 

Brunnen  is  3  M.  from  Schwyz.  The  road  leads  by  Ihach, 
at  the  entrance  to  the  Muottathal  (R.  74),  Ingenbohl  (Pension), 
with  a  pilgrimage-church,  and  the  nunnery  of  Mariahilf,  founded 
in  1855. 

11^4  M.  Brnimen,  see  p.  73. 


59 
21.    The  Bigi. 

See  Map  J  p.  68. 

Dittanoe*  to  the  Kulm:  from  Immensee,  Kiissnacht,  Waggis,  or  Vitz- 
nau  3>J4  hrs. ;  from  Arth  or  Greppen  S'Js;  from  Goldau  3>|4,  from  Lowerz 
4,  from  Gersau  4>|4  hrs.  —  Pedestrians  of  ordinary  powers  will  perform 
these  distances  in  the  time  specified,  walking  .<«lowly,  without  stopping. 
The  descent  takes  one-third  less. 

The  majority  of  visitors  to  the  Rigi  now  prefer  the  far  more  rapid 
and  comfortable  ascent  by  railway,  but  the  scenery  cannot  be  fairly 
appreciated  unless  the  traveller  either  walk  or  ride  to  the  summit  from 
the  E.  side.  The  ascent  from  Arth,  Goldau,  or  Lowerz,  and  the  descent 
to  Waggis  (or  by  the  Scheideck  to  Gersau)  are  therefore  recommended. 
These  three  paths  are  partially  shaded  in  the  afternoon,  and  as  they 
command  no  view,  the  effect  is  strikingly  impressive  when  the  Staffel  is 
reached,  while  the  routes  from  Immensee,  Kiissnacht,  and  Waggis,  which 
wind  round  the  mountain-sides,  gradually  prepare  the  traveller  for  the 
beauty  of  the  scene.  The  descent  to  Waggis  affords  a  charming  view  of 
the  lake  and  opposite  Alps  of  Uri  and  Unterwalden,  and  is  far  preferable 
to  the  descent  on  the  N.  or  £.  side. 

Steamboat  from  Lucerne  7  times  daily  to  Waggis  in  'Is— 'fi  hr.,  to 
Vitznau  in  »J4 — 1  hr.,  to  Gersau  in  1M« — 1*14  hr.  ^  from  Lucerne  to  Kiiss- 
nacht 4  times  daily  in  1  hr.,  to  Greppen  in  ^\\  hr.  —  From  Zug  to  Im- 
mensee 4  times  daily  in  '(4  hr.,  to  Arth  in  1  hr. 

Bigi  Bailway  (p.  61)  from  Vitznau  to  the  Kulm  (the  last  part,  from 
the  Staffel  to  the  Kulm,  comnleted  in  July,  1873)  in  1  hr.  40  min.,  fare 
7  fr.  \  descent  1  hr.  15  min.,  o^\2  fr.  \  10  lbs.  of  luggage  free,  over-weight 
1  fr.  per  100  lbs.  (heavy  luggage  must  sometimes  be  left  to  follow  by  a 
later  train).  From  1st  July  to  15lh  Sept.  there  are  four  trains  daily  Tcor- 
responding  with  the  steamers  leaving  Lucerne  at  8,  11.15,  1.45,  and  5.45 
o''clock),  by  each  of  which  70 — 80  passengers  are  conveyed.  Extra  trains 
are  also  despatched  as  soon  as  a  party  of  24  persons  or  more  is  made  up. 
The  smaller  carriages  hold  34,  the  larger  54  persons,  and  all  the  seats 
command  a  view,  both  during  the  ascent  and  descent.  If  the  traffic  is 
small,  two  of  the  trains  cease  to  run.  Each  ticket  bears  the  number  of 
the  carriage  in  which  the  traveller  must  take  his  seat. 

Horses  and  Ouides.  The  principal  paths  are  so  minutely  described  in 
the  following  pages  that  they  cannot  be  mistaken.  The  concourse  of  travellers 
who  frequent  the  route  in  summer  is  moreover  so  great  as  to  render  the 
services  of  a  guide  superfluous  \  a  boy,  however,  may  be  readily  engaged 
for  I1J2 — 2  fr.,  to  show  the  way  to  the  summit  and  carry  light  luggage. 
The  ascent  on  horseback  is  not  unpleasant,  but  the  descent  is  disagreeable, 
and  almost  more  fatiguing  than  walking.  The  leader  of  the  horse  expects 
a  fee. 

A  government  tariff  of  17th  June,  1858  (recently  abrogated,  but  suffi- 
cient to  convey  an  idea  of  the  proper  charges),  fixed  the  following  charges 
for  the  canton  of  Schwyz:  Horses.  (1).  From  Arth  or  Qoldau  to  the 
Klosterli  7,  Staffel,  or  Kaltbad  9,  Kulm  or  Scheideck  10  fr. ;  for  return 
by  same  route  from  the  Klosterli  5,  Staffel,  Kaltbad,  or  Kulm  6,  Schei- 
deck 10  fr.  ^  for  return  by  Immensee^  KHsnacht ,  or  WUggis  from  the 
Staffel  or  Kaltbad  9,  from  the  Kulm  or  Scheideck  10  fr.  —  (2).  From 
Oersau  to  the  Scheideck  7,  Klosterli  8,  Kaltbad,  Kulm,  or  Staffel  12  fr.^ 
for  return  to  Gersau  from  Scheideck  5,  Klosterli,  Staffel,  or  Kaltbad  6, 
Kulm  10  fr.  —  (3).  From  Kiissnacht  or  Immensee  to  the  Staffel  8, 
Kulm,  Klosterli,  Kaltbad  10,  Scheideck  12  fr.  \  for  return  to  Kiissnacht  and 
Immensee  from  the  Staffel  5,  Kulm,  Klosterli,  Kaltbad  6,  Scheideck  10  fr.  \ 
for  return  by  Arth ,  Goldau  or  Waggis  from  the  Klosterli,  Staffel,  Kalt- 
bad 9,  from  Kulm  or  Scheideck  10  fr.  —  (4).  For  a  horse  ordered  for  the 
next  day  for  the  return,  and  not  countermanded  until  then,  5  fr.  must  be 
paid. 

Chairs  (for  the  ascent  3  or  4  porters,  according  to  the  traveller's  weight, 
are   necessary,    for   the   descent  2):    (1).    From  Arth   or  Qoldau  to   the 


60     RouU  21.  RIGI.  HoteU. 

Klosterli  for  each  porter  4  fr.  30,  Kaltbad  or  Staffel  5,  Kulm  or  Scheideck 
6  fr. ;  for  return  from  Klosterli  3  fr.  60,  Kaltbad  or  Staffel  4  fr.  30,  Kulm 
or  Scheideck  5  fr.  30  c.  —  (2).  From  Oersau  to  Scheideck  for  each  porter 
4>|2  fr.,  Klosterli  5i|2  fr.,  Kaltbad  or  Staffel  6^lt  fr.,  Kulm  8  fr.  ^  for  re- 
turn from  Scheideck  3  fr.  80,  Klosterli  4  fr.  80,  Kaltbad  or  Staffel  5  fr.  80, 
Kulm?  fr.  80c.  —  (3).  From  KHssnacht  to  the  Staffel  4  fr.  50 c;  Kulm, 
Kaltbad,  Klosterli  6,  Scheideck  8  fr.  ^  for  return  from  the  Staffel  3  fr.  80, 
Kulm,  Kaltbad,  Klosterli  5  fr.  30,  Scheideck  7  fr.  30  c. 

Porters.  (1).  From  Arth  or  Ooldau,  according  to  weight  (20, 
40,  eO,  80  or  100  lbs.),  to  the  Klosterli  li|2,  3,  3>|2,  4  or  5  fr. ;  Kaltbad  or 
Staffel  2,  3i|2,  41/2,  5  or  6  fr.  \  Kulm  or  Scheideck  3,  4<J2,  5,  6  or  6i|2  fr.  — 
(2).  From  Oersau  to  Scheideck  I'/a,  3,  3il,,  4  or  5^  Klosterli  2,  3>|2,  4, 
41  2,  5»l2  fr.-,  Kaltbad  or  Staffel  2M2,  4,  4»|2,  5,  6  fr.  •,  Kulm  3,  4>|2,  5,  6, 
6»2fr.  —  (3).  From  KUssnacht  to  the  Staffel  IM2,  3,  3»]2,  4,  5  fr. ;  Kulm, 
Kaltbad,  or  Klosterli  2,  3i|2,  4i|2,  5,  6  fr.  •,  Scheideck  3,  4i|2,  5,  6,  6>|2  fr. 

For  W (la git  (Canton  of  Lucerne),  the  following  official  tariff  was 
issued  in  1860:  Horse  with  attendant  to  Kaltbad  6,  Staffel  or  Klosterli  8, 
Kulm  10  fr. ;  for  return  the  same  day  4 ,  5  or  6  fr.  Chairs ,  for  each  porter 
to  Kaltbad  4,  Staffel,  or  Klosterli  5,  Kulm  6  fr.  (same  rate  for  the  descent, 
if  there  has  been  no  previous  agreement  for  a  reduced  charge).  Porters^ 
by  weight  (20  to  40,  40  to  60,  60  to  80,  80  to  100  lbs.),  to  Kaltbad  2>|2,  3, 
31(2,  4»|2fr.,  Staffel  or  Klosterli  3,  31J2,  41/2,  5  fr.,  Kulm  3»|2,  4»|2,  5,  6  fr. 
Guides  (with  20  lbs.  of  luggage),  to  Kaltbad  1  fr.  20  c,  Staffel  or  Klosterli 
lija,  Kulm  2fr. 

Regulations.  The  following  are  the  most  important  clauses :  §  3.  The 
horses  for  hire  must  be  sound  and  strong,  the  gear  in  good  order.  §  8.  The 
cftie/  of  the  guides  (Tourmeister),  who  holds  office  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  burgomaster,  is  responsible  for  the  observance  of  the  regulations. 
His  duty  is  to  maintain  order  amongst  the  guides,  to  render  assistance  to 
travellers,  and  to  give  notice  of  any  infringement  of  the  regulations.  §  11. 
Each  horse  must  have  an  attendant.  §  12.  The  chief  of  the  guides  has  the 
sole  right  of  offering  guides  or  horses  to  travellers,  without,  however,  con- 
trolling their  choice.  §  14.  The  guides  are  forbidden  to  importune  travellers. 
§  15.  Civility  and  sobriety  are  strictly  enjoined.  Guides  are  personally 
responsible  for  the  luggage  entrusted  to  them.  §  16.  They  are  forbidden 
to  ask  for  gratuities  in  excess  of  the  tariff.  §  19.  The  chief  of  the  guides 
has  to  adjust  any  differences  that  may  arise  among  the  guides  themselves, 
or  between  travellers  and  their  guides;  if  he  cannot  succeed  in  doing  so, 
the  matter  must  be  brought  before  the  burgomaster  (Gemeindeammann), 
or  the  nearest  magistrate. 

The  ascent  of  the  Rigi  is  attended  with  no  difficulty.  The  first  part 
is  the  steepest.  The  traveller  who  feels  fatigue  at  the  beginning  of 
the  undertaking,  never  fails  to  recover  as  he  approaches  the  summit,  and 
inhales  the  pure  and  invigorating  mountain  air.  The  Kulm  should  be 
reached  at  least  an  hour  before  sunset,  in. order  to  secure  the  evening  view, 
as  the  morning  fogs  too  often  cause  disappointment. 

Hotels.  On  the  Kulm,  ^Hotel  Rigi-Kulk  (p.  64),  R.  in  the  old  house 
3 — 1,  in  the  new  4 — 5  fr.,  L.  1,  B.  1»(2,  table  d'hote  4,  cheapest  wine  3  fr. 
a  bottle,  tea  with  cold  meat  2^J2,  A.  1  fr.  The  rooms  to  the  S.  (generally 
with  2  beds)  alone  command  a  complete  view  of  the  Alps.  Telegraph  office 
in  the  house.  —  *Rigi  Staffel  (p.  62),  ^\2  hr.  below  the  Kulm,  enlarged  in 
1871,  R.  1>|2— 2«|2,  B.  11(4,  S.  2»(2,  A.  «|4  fr.,  pension  6  to  6  fr.,  according  to 
the  rooms  (an  amusing  place  for  a  stay  of  a  few  days,  as  the  whole  of  the 
Rigi  traffic  passes  this  way).  —  The  *Cukhau8  Rigi  Kaltbad  (p.  62),  ^2  hr. 
to  the  W.  of  the  Staffel,  is  a  large  establishment,  with  baths,  comfortably 
fitted  up  and  expensive,  where  ordinary  travellers  rarely  find  accommoda- 
tion. —  *ScHWERT  and  *Sonne,  near  the  Kldsterli  (p.  67),  R.  1 — 1>I2,  B.  1, 
D.  2*|2,  A.  1  fr.,  pension  4^/2  fr.  —  *Cubhau8  Rioi-Scheideck  (p.  67),  mag- 
nificent view,  second  only  to  that  from  the  Kulm,  R.  l'|2 — 5,  B.  1 — 2,  D. 
3i|2,  L.  and  A.  l'|4  fr.  i,  pension  exclusive  of  room,  5  fr.  Whey,  milk,  or 
the  chalybeate  water  of  the  Scheideck  15  c.  per  glass ;  ordinary  bath  1  fr., 
whey-bath  4  fr.  Telegraph  office.  The  establishment  was  considerably 
enlarged  in  1870. 


Railway.  HlOl.  '21,  RouU.      61 

In  the  height  of  the  season  travellers  are  recommended  to  telegraj^h 
(*|2fr.)  from  Ziirieh,  Lucerne,  Horgen,  Wadenswyl,  Zug,  Schwye,  Altorf, 
or  Stans,  if  they  wish  to  secure  good  accommodation  at  the  Kulm. 

The  **Rigi  (5905',  4472'  above  the  Lake  of  Lucerne),  a  group 
of  mountains,  about  25  M.  in  circumference,  lying  between  the 
lakes  of  Lucerne,  Zug,  and  Lowerz,  is  chiefly  composed  of  con- 
glomerate (p.  57),  while  the  N.  and  W.  sides  belong  to  the 
meiocene  formation.  The  N.  side  is  precipitous,  but  the  S. 
side  consists  of  wide  terraces  and  gentle  slopes ,  planted  with 
ilg,  chestnut,  and  almond  trees,  and  covered  with  fresh  green 
pastures  which  support  upwards  of  4000  head  of  cattle.  The 
name  Riffi,  however,  is  usually  applied  to  the  N.  peak  only, 
which,  owing  to  its  isolated  position,  commands  a  singularly 
beautiful  and  striking  panorama  of  300  miles  in  circumference. 

It  was  formerly  termed  Rigi-Weid  (pasturage  of  the  Rigi) 
by  the  natives  of  the  district,  but  is  now  known  as  the  Rigi 
only  (i.  e.  *strata').  The  cow-herds  and  the  frequenters  of  the 
Kaltbad  were  at  one  time  the  only  persons  acquainted  with 
the  mountain.  In  1689  an  inhabitant  of  Arth  erected  the  chapel 
of  Our  Lady  of  the  Snow  (St.  Maria  zum  Schnee)  for  the  use 
of  the  herdsmen ,  and  an  image  of  the  Virgin  placed  there  in 
1700  soon  acquired  a  reputation  for  effecting  miraculous  cures. 
Hence  arose  the  custom  of  making  pilgrimages  to  the  spot,  and 
as  early  as  1760  the  inns  which  had  gradually  sprung  up  scarcely 
afforded  sufficient  accommodation  for  the  pilgrims.  The  Kulm 
was  visited  on  fete-days  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  environs,  and 
afterwards  by  those  of  the  neighbouring  cantons,  but  did  not 
begin  to  attract  the  notice  of  strangers  until  after  1760.  Their 
numbers  increased  when  peace  was  restored  to  Europe.  In  1815 
a  hut  was  built  on  the  summit,  and  in  1816  an  insignificant  inn 
was  erected  by  voluntary  subscription.  The  present  hotel  dates 
from  1848,  and  has  since  been  greatly  enlarged.  Before  the 
opening  of  the  railway  the  Rigi  was  annually  ascended  by  40,000 
persons  on  an  average,  but  the  number  has  greatly  increased 
of  late.  In  1872  no  fewer  than  46,159  persons  made  the  ascent 
by  railway. 

Kigi-Bailway.  This  bold  undertaking,  projected  in  imitation  of  simi- 
lar works  in  America,  was  begun  by  the  engineers  Riggenbach,  Ifaeffand 
Zschokke  in  1869,  and  completed  in  the  spring  of  1871.  The  line  runs 
from  Vitznau  to  tlie  boundary  of  the  canton  of  Lucerne,  and  its  extension 
thence  to  the  Kulm  has  been  constructed  by  the  canton  of  Scliwyz  in  con- 
nection with  a  projected  railway  from  Arth.  Length  of  the  line  from 
Vitznau  to  the  Kulm  7755  yds.  The  gradient  varies  from  18  to  25  per 
cent.  (1  :  4),  the  height  to  the  Kulm  being  about  4535'.  The  cost  of  con- 
struction to  the  Staffel  was  I'U  million  francs. 

Conitntctum.  The  gauge  is  that  of  ordinary  railways.  Between  the 
rails  run  two  others,  placed  close  together  and  provided  with  teeth,  on 
which  a  cog-wheel  under  the  locomotive  works.  The  locomotives  (120 
borse  power),  constructed  by  Herr  Riggenbach,  are  on  a  new  and  peculiar 
system,  with  upright  boilers.  The  train  is  propelled  upwards  by  steam- 
power,  while  in  its   descent  the  speed  is  regulated  by  an  ingenious  mode 


62     RouU  21.  RIGI.  KaOtbad. 

of  introducing  atmospheric  air  into  the  cylinder.  The  padsenger  carriage 
is  placed  in  both  cases  above  the  engine,  with  which  it  is  unconnected  by 
couplings,  and  in  case  of  accident  can  be  stopped  almost  instantaneously. 
The  speed  attained  does  not  exceed  3  M.  an  hour,  and  no  apprehension  of 
danger  need  be  entertained. 

Vitsnan  (p.  71)  is  the  starting-point  of  the  Rlgi  Railway,  the 
station  of  which  is  close  to  the  quay  (restaurant).  The  train 
ascends  gradually  through  the  village  (1  :  16)  and  afterwards  more 
rapidly  (1  :  4),  passing  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the  Dossen.  A 
view  of  the  lake  is  soon  disclosed,  becoming  more  imposing  as  the 
train  ascends.  The  dark  Bfirgenstock  on  the  opposite  bank  first 
appears,  then  the  Stanserhorn  and  Pilatus,  and  Lucerne  towards  the 
W.  Farther  up,  the  Alps  of  Uri,  Engelberg,  and  the  Bernese 
Oberland  come  in  sight  above  the  lower  intervening  mountains. 

About  25  min.  after  starting,  the  train  penetrates  a  projecting 
conglomerate  rock  by  means  of  a  tunnel  82  yds.  in  length,  and 
then  crosses  the  Schnurtobel,  a  ravine  75  ft.  in  depth,  by  means  of 
an  iron  bridge  borne  by  two  iron  pillars.  This  is  the  most  in- 
teresting point  on  the  line.  A  few  minutes  later  a  watering  and 
passing  station  on  the  Freiberg  Is  reached.  Beyond  this  point  no 
great  difficulty  was  experienced  in  the  construction  of  the  line, 
the  gradient  of  which  now  averages  1  :  5.  The  next  station,  1  hr. 
from  Vitznau,  is 

Kaltbad  (4728'),  to  the  1.  of  which  is  the  spacious  Curhaus  (p. 
60),  situated  on  a  broad  plateau  sheltered  from  the  N.  and  E.  winds, 

and  surrounded  wlch  pleasant  grounds. 

A  path  leads  through  a  narrow  opening  in  the  rock,  to  the  1.  of  the 
hotel,  to  St.  Hichael't  OhapeL,  where  mass  is  celebrated  daily  for  the 
benefit  of  the  herdsmen.  The  walls  are  hung  with  numerous  votive  tab- 
lets. One  of  the  larger  of  these  on  the  1.  side  records  that  two  pious 
sisters  sought  refuge  here  from  the  persecutions  of  a  governor  of  the  dis- 
trict in  the  time  of  King  Albert,  and  to  them  the  foundation  of  the  chapel 
is  ascribed.  The  virtues  of  a  spring  (42"  Fahr.)  which  bubbles  forth  from 
the  rock  adjoining  the  chapel  are  also  extolled,  and  there  is  finally  a  de- 
claration that  'to  this  royal  mountain  the  Almighty  has  vouchsafed  com- 
plete immunity  from  vermin  and  all  venomous  animals.** 

A  path  leads  through  the  blocks  of  conglomerate  near  the  chapel  to 
the  (10  min.)  ^Kftnzli  (4770'),  a  pavilion  on  a  projecting  rock,  command- 
ing an  admirable  view  of  the  range  of  snow-mountains  and  the  plain  to- 
wards the  N.  with  its  numerous  lakes,  similar  to  that  from  the  Stafi'el, 
but  'with  a  more  picturesque  foreground.  —  A  path  leads  hence  to  the 
Staffel  in  the  same  time  as  from  the  Kaltbad  (4(1  min.),  ascending  to  the 
r.  (not  to  the  £.)  as  far  as  the  point  where  the  S.  part  of  the  Lake  of 
Lucerne  becomes  visible,  and  then  following  the  crest  of  the  mountain 
until  it  unites  with  the  path  from  the  Kaltbad,  about  halfway  up.  Those 
therefore  who' visit  the  Kanzli  from  the  Kaltbad  need  not  return  to  the 
latter. 

In  10  min.  more  the  train  reaches  the  Staff elhohe,  which  was 

the  terminus  of  the  line  down  to  1873.     Beyond  this  point  the  new 

line  leads  to  the  1.  round  the  Rigi-Rothatoek  (see  below),  while  the 

new  bridle-path  crosses  the  mountain  to  the  r.  to  the  (i^hr.)  Bigi- 

Staffel  (5210').     The  station  is  close  to  the  hotel  (p.  60).     The 

Stafi'el  presents  a  busy  scene  in  summer,  as  all   the  Rigi  voutes 

unite  here. 


BrUUe  Paths.  BJQl.  21.  RouU.     63 

An  excursion  much  recommended  i«  the  ucent  of  the  *Riti-llothrtock 
(6456'),  12  min.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  inn.  The  prospect  is  very  picturesque, 
embracing  the  central  part  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  which  is  not  visible 
from  the  Kulm.  A  clear  view  is  moreover  often  enjoyed  from  this  point 
while  the  Kulm  is  enveloped  in  dense  fog.  The  sunset  is  sometimes  said 
to  be  seen  in  greater  perfection  from  the  Rothstock  than  from  the  Kulm, 
but  the  sunrise  should  by  all  means  be  witnessed  from  the  latter. 

The  railway  and  bridle-path  ascend  from  the  Staifel  to  the 
(^2  ^'O  Kulm  within  a  short  distance  of  the  precipitous  rocks  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  mountain.  To  the  1.,  halfway,  is  the  Kesaia- 
bodenloch^  13'  wide  and  100'  deep,  stones  thrown  into  which  are 
seen  to  emerge  on  the  N.W.  fare  of  the  cliflT,  and  then  disappear  in 
the  abyss. 

Sigi  Kulm  (p.  64).  The  botel-offlre  where  application  is  made 
for  rooms,  is  in  the  new  house,  to  the  r.  (comp.  p.  60). 

Bridle  Patha  (comp.  p.  59).  From  Arth  (p.  49)  3<|2  hrs  to  the  top. 
The  broad  and  well-trodden  path  cannot  be  mistaken.  By  the  chapel  of 
St.  George,  near  the  last  house  in  the  village,  it  turns  to  the  1.  and 
reaches  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  12  min. ;  12  min.,  a  small  waterfall, 
precipitated  over  the  blocks  of  conglomerate  in  several  leaps,  but  often 
dry  in  summer;  8  min.,  a  meadow;  4  min.,  a  large  plateau  of  fern;  12 
min.,  the  Kasgatterli.  a  store-house  for  cheese  (avoid  path  to  the  r.);  20 
min.,  waterfall;  4  mm..  Unteres  DdehU  (ftee  below),  where  the  path  unites 
with  the  bridle-path  from  Ooldau. 

From  Ooldau  (lijz  M.  from  Arth;  omnibuf,  see  p.  66)  3*|4  hrs.,  an 
excellent  bridle-path,  the  best  of  the  Rigi  routes,  and  not  to  be  mistaken. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  village  cross  the  Aa^  and  proceed  to  the  1.  of  the 
brook  through  meadows,  pine  plantations,  and  rocky  debris,  ascending 
by  means  of  steps  in  places.  To  the  1.  rise  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the 
Rothjluh  (5233').  At  the  (1  hr.)  Untere  Sftchli  (9064)  (Avberge  du  Rigi), 
where  the  footpath  comes  up  to  the  r.  from  Arth,  a  good  view  is  obtained 
of  the  valley  of  Ooldau,  the  scene  of  the  landslip  (p.  67),  the  lake  of 
Lowers,  and  the  Mythen  of  Schwyz.  By  the  cross  adjoining  the  tavern 
begin  the  stations  or  oratorios  which  lead  to  the  chapel  of  Our  Lady  of 
the  Snow.  A  path  diverging  to  the  1.  by  the  third  station  leads  to  the 
Scheideck  (p.  67),  but  cannot  easily  be  found  without  a  guide.  At  the 
Obere  D&chli  (refreshments),  where  there  is  a  spring  by  the  side  of  the 
path,  the  wood  is  quitted.  This  point  is  about  halfway  to  the  top,  the 
second  half,  however,  is  less  laborious  than  the  first.  (A  direct  path 
leads  hence  to  the  Kulm  in  l^js  hr.,  along  the  slope  to  the  r.,  crossing 
the  OrHnhoU  and  Schtedndi  Alps,  and  passing  to  the  1.  of  the  pine  wood.) 

The  bridle-path  iU\t  hr.  to  the  top)  leads  from  the  Obere  Dachli  to 
the  1.  (in  10  min.)  to  the  8th  station,  called  the  Malehut-Capelle,  where  it 
is  joined  by  the  path  from  Lower?,  (see  below).  Between  this  station  and 
the  Klosterli  a  cross  let  into  the  rock  indicates  a  shorter  but  steep  foot- 
path to  the  Kulm  i^li  hr.)  which  cannot  be  recommended.  At  the  (ijz  hr.) 
Kldsterli  (p.  67)  is  the  small  church  of  Maria  zum  Schnee  (thence  to  the 
Scheideck,  see  p.  68;  to  the  Kallbad  over  the  First,  *\i  hr.).  From  the 
Klosterli  to  the  Rigi-Staffel  (p.  62)  is  a  walk  of  40  min.  more. 

From  Lowert  (p.  58)  an  easy  bridle-path,  ascending  more  gradually 
than  any  of  the  others,  leads  to  the  Kulm  in  4  hrs.  It  diverges  from  the 
road  at  a  cross  with  a  finger-post,  s|4  H.  from  the  village,  and  ascends 
gently  across  meadows,  passing  some  detached  houses.  At  a  (1  hr.)  chalet 
with  a  cross  the  path  divides ,  that  to  the  1.  leads  to  the  Rigi-Scheideck. 
In  iJ4  hr.  the  path  reaches  a  beautiful  wood,  through  which  it  leads  in 
an  iiour  to  the  Rigithal,  and  then  crosses  the  latter  below  the  Malchus- 
capelle  (see  above).  On  the  opposite  slope  of  the  valley  it  unites  with  the 
Ooldau  route.  —  From  Lowera  to  the  Rigi-Scheideck,  see  p.  67. 


64     RouU  9].  ItlGt.  ICulm.       A„^,. 

From  KUssnacht  (p.  50)  bridle-path  to  the  top  in  3'(4  hrs.  (a  digres- 
sion of   »|s  hr.  may  be  mad€  to  Tell's  Chapel,  p.  50).     The  path  diverges 

to  the  r.  by  a  small  shrine  near  the  end  of  the  village,  skirting  the  brook,        '  ^ 
which  it  crosses  near  a  large  new  house  j  in  'Is  hr.,  the  ruins  of  a  burned       'PjJ 
house  ^  at  the  finger-post  'auf  die  Rigi'   turn  to  the  1.;   in  20  min.,  Ross- 
weid,  where  the   rock  bears   a  cross   to  the  memory  of  a  man  killed  by  rS        « 
lightning  in  1738  (view   over  the  N.  part  of  the  Lake  of  Zug-,  at  the  N. 
end  rises   the  white  church   of  Cham,   p.  35)  ^   then  through  wood  for  20  ' 

min.  ^  afterwards  a  tract  of  fern  is  traversed  (view  of  the  Lake  of  Sexn- 
pach  to  the  1.,  and  of  the  Lake  of  Baldegg  to  the  r.).  In  1/4  hr.  the  Un- 
tere  Seeboden-Alp  (3372')  is  reached,  on  which,  at  the  ffeiUgkreuz,  the 
paths  from  Immensee  and  Tell's  Chapel  unite  with  the  Kiissnacht  path^ 
18  min.,  the  Obere  Seeboden  Alp  (Curhaus,  poor).  Then  a  steep  zigzag 
ascent  of  li|4  hr.  to  the  Staffel  (p.  62).  , 

From   Immensee   (p.  49)  bridle-path  to   the  top  in  d^U  hrs.     About     4^' 
>|2  M.  from  Immensee,  the  Kiis^snacht  and  Arth  road  is  reached  at  the  inn 
^  Zur  Eiehe''  (p.  50),  50  paces   to  the  1.  of  which,  by  the  inn  '-Zur  Ilge''^ 
the   Rigi  path  ascends  to  the  r.,   reaching  the   Untere  Seeboden-Alp  (see 
above)  in    I8J4  hr.,  where   the  paths  from   Immensee,  TelPs  Chapel,   and     ..    *> 
Kiissnacht  unite. 

From  Oreppen  (p.  50),  on   the   E.  bank  of  the   Kiissnacht  branch 
of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  a  good   bridle-path   also  ascends  to  the  Kulm  in       '.'r 
3'ja  hrs. 

From  Waggis  (p.  70)  a  bridle-path  which  cannot  possibly  be  miss-  ^.* 
ed  (finger-post  near  the  steamboat-pier),  ascends  to  the  Kulm  in  3>|4  hrs. 
It  winds  at  first  through  orchards,  the  produce  of  which  the  traveller 
has  frequent  opportunities  of  purchasing,  and  then  crosses  the  tract  of  a 
mild  stream  which  descended  from  the  mountain  in  1796.  As  the  sluggish 
torrent  took  a  fortnight  to  reach  the  lake,  ample  time  was  left  to  the 
inhabitants  to  save  themselves  and  their  property.  Beyond  the  (li|4  hr.)  '  ;. 
Heiligkretu-Capelle  the  path  skirts  a  precipitous  rocky  slope  to  the  (IJ2  hr.) 
Hochstein  or  Felsenthor,  sometimes  termed  the  Kdsbisten  (^Hotel  Bigi-Fel- 
sen-Thor),  an  arch  formed  of  two  huge  masses  of  conglomerate,  on  which 
rests  a  third  block  surmounted  by  a  cross.  The  path  ascends  through 
this  natural  gateway,  running  parallel  to  the  railway  part  of  the  way, 
and  next  reaches  the  (S|4  hr.)  Kaltbad  (p.  62).  —  This  route  commands  a 
succession  of  beautiful  views  of  the  lake  and  mountains,  and  is  especially 
recommended  for  the  descent  (comp.  p.  59). 

The  Bigi-Kolm  (5905'),   the   loftiest  and  most  N.   point  of 

the   Rigi,    is   covered  with   grass   to  the    summit.     Its   N.    side 

descends  precipitously  to  the  Lake  of  Zug,  while  on  the  S.  side 

it  is   connected  with  the  other  heights  of  the  Rigi  by  numerous 

ramifications.     The   large  hotel  (p.  60),  with  the  adjacent  older 

building,  is  about  130  paces  below  the  summit,  sheltered  from 

the  N.  and  W.  winds.     At  the  top  rises  a  wooden  belvedere. 

**View.  The  first  object  which  absorbs  the  attention  of  the  traveller, 
is  the  stupendous  range  of  the  snow-clad  Alps,  120  M.  in  length  (comp. 
the  Panorama).  The  chain  begins  in  the  far  £.  with  the  Sentis  in 
the  Canton  of  Appenzell,  over,  or  near  which  the  first  rays  of  the  rising 
sun  appear  in  summer.  Somewhat  nearer  the  Rigi  rises  the  huge  snowy 
crest  of  the  Glarnisch^  then  the  Todi,  in  front  of  which  are  the  Cla- 
riden,  and  to  the  r.  the  double  peak  of  the  Scheerhom;  next  the  broad 
Windgelle,  immediately  opposite,  and  the  sharp  pyramid  of  the  Bris ten- 
stock,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  St.  Gotthard  road  begins  to  ascend  near 
Amsteg  in  the  valley  of  the  Reuss^  the  Blackenstock  and  the  Uri- Roth- 
stock,  side  by  side,*  are  both  so  near  that  the  ice  of  their  glaciers  can  be 
distinguished  ^  more  to  the  right  the  Titlis,  the  highest  of  the  Unterwal- 
den  range,  easily  distinguished  by  its  vast  mantle  of  snow.  The  eye  next 
travels  to  the  Bernese  Alps,  crowning  the  landscape  with  their  magnificent 
peaks  clad  with  perpetual  snow.     To  the  extreme  1.  is  the  Finsteraarhorn, 


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f^idm.  RIGI.  27.  Route.     65 

the  loftiest  of  all,  adjacent  to  it  the  Schreckhomer,  the  three  white  peaks 
of  the  Wetterhom,  the  Monch,  the  Eiger  with  its  perpendicular  walls  of 
dark  rock  on  the  "S.  side,  and  the  Jungfrau.  To  the  W.  tower  the  ser- 
rated peaks  of  the  sombre  Pilatus,  forming  the  extreme  outpost  of  the 
Alps  in  this  direction.  —  Towards  the  N.  the  entire  Lake  of  Zug  is  visible, 
with  the  roads  leading  to  Arth,  and  the  villages  of  Zug  and  Cham.  To  the 
1.  of  the  Lake  of  Zug,  at  the  foot  of  the  Rigi,  stands  Tell's  Chapel,  mid- 
way between  Immensee  and  Kiissnacht,  a  little  to  the  1.  of  a  white  houses 
then,  separated  from  the  Lake  of  Zug  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  the  Kiiss- 
nacht arm  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne ;  more  to  the  W.  Lucerne  with  its  crown 
of  battlements  and  towers,  at  the  head  of  its  bay.  Beyond  Lucerne  is  seen 
almost  the  entire  canton  of  that  name,  with  the  Emme  meandering  through 
it  like  a  silver  thread;  the  Reuss  is  also  visible  at  places.  More  distant 
are  the  Lake  of  Sempach,  the  W.  side  of  which  is  skirted  by  the  railway 
to  B&le,  and  the  lakes  of  Baldegg  and  Hallwyl.  The  W.  and  N.W. 
horizon  is  bounded  by  the  Jura  chain,  above  which  peep  some  of  the  crests 
of  the  Vosges.  —  To  the  N.,  but  to  the  1.  of  the  Lake  of  Zug,  the  hand- 
some buildings  of  the  dissolved  Abbey  of  Muri  are  visible,  beyond  which 
rises  the  castle  of  Habsburg;  in  the  distance  the  Black  Poorest  with  its 
highest  peaks,  the  Feldberg  (to  the  r.)  and  the  Belchen  (to  the  1.)-  Beyond 
the  Lake  of  Zug  is  seen  the  crest  of  the  Albis  with  the  Uetliberg,  which 
almost  entirely  conceals  the  Lake  of  Zurich  *,  the  long  cantonal  hospital  and 
the  cathedral  in  the  town  of  Zurich  are,  however,  visible.  In  the  extreme 
distance  rise  the  basaltic  cones  of  Hohenhowen  and  HohenstofTeln  (close 
together)  and  the  Hohentwiel  in  Swabia.  Towards  the  E.,  behind  the  N. 
slope  of  the  Bossberg,  a  glimpse  is  obtained  of  the  Lake  of  Egeri,  on  the 
S.  bank  of  which  was  fought  the  famous  battle  of  Morgarten  (p.  3IU0). 
Beyond  Arth,  opposite  the  Kulm,  is  the  Bossberg,  the  S.  slope  of  which 
was  the  scene  of  the  disastrous  Goldau  landslip.  Between  the  Rossberg 
and  the  E.  ramifications  of  the  Rigi  lies  the  Lake  of  Lowerz  with  its  two 
little  islands  \  beyond  it,  the  town  of  Schwyz,  at  the  foot  of  the  barren 
heights  of  the  Mythen,  overtopped  by  the  imposiug  Olarnisch.  To  the 
r.  opens  the  Muottathal,  celebrated  in  military  annals.  To  the  S.  and 
S.E.  the  different  summits  of  the  Rigi  form  the  foreground,  viz.  the 
Hochfluh  (below  it  the  Rothenfluh),  Scheideck,  Dossen,  and  Schild,  at  the 
foot  of  which  lies  the  Klosterli.  To  the  1.  of  the  Schild  part  of  the  Lake 
of  Lucerne  is  seen  near  Beckenried,  and  to  the  r.  the  bay  termed  the  Lake 
of  Buochs,  with  the  Buochser  Horn  above  it;  a  little  more  to  the  r.  the 
Stanser  Horn  with  Stans  at  its  base ;  nearer,  the  less  elevated  Biirgenstock 
and  the  Rigi-Rothstock.  Beyond  these  heights,  to  the  1.,  the  lake  of 
Samen,  embosomed  in  forest,  to  the  r.  the  bay  of  Alpnach,  connected 
with  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  by  a  narrow  strait  formed  by  the  Lopperberg,  a 
spur  of  Pilatus. 

From  the  middle  of  July  to  the  middle  of  September,  in 
fine  weather,  the  hotel  is  crowded  towards  evening  (precau- 
tions about  securing  accommodation,  see  p.  61).  The  concourse 
of  strangers,  composed  of  such  various  elements,  is  of  itself  a 
source  of  no  little  amusement  to  the  observant  spectator.  Every 
grade  of  society  is  represented  here ,  and  all  the  languages  of 
Europe  combine  to  produce  a  very  Babel  of  incongruous  sounds. 
At  sunset  all  are  attracted  to  the  summit  by  one  common  object. 
Loiterers  arrive  breathless  at  the  point  towards  which  they  have 
been  toiling  so  many  hours,  while  an  indifferent  performer  on  the 
Alpine  horn  somewhat  tries  the  temper  by  blowing  the  *  retreat' 
of  the  orb  of  day.  When  the  sun  has  at  length  disappeared, 
the  prosaic  attractions  of  the  supper-table  become  predominant, 
and  by  11  p.m.  profound  silence  generally  prevails  throughout 
the  entire  establishment. 

Badekbr,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  5 


66     Route  21,  RIGI.  Kulm. 

Half  an  hour  before  sunrise,  the  Alpine  horn  sounds  the 
reveille.  All  is  again  noise,  bustle,  and  confusion.  As  the  sun 
will  wait  for  no  man,  eager  expectants  often  indulge  in  im- 
promptu toilettes  of  the  most  startling  description.  A  red  Indian 
in  his  blanket  would  on  these  occasions  be  most  appropriately 
dressed)  and  would  doubtless  find  many  imitators  but  for  the 
penalty  imposed  on  visitors  borrowing  so  tempting  a  covering 
from  the  hotel.  The  sleepy  eye  soon  brightens,  the  limb  stiff- 
ened by  the  exertions  of  the  preceding  day  is  lithe  again  in  that 
exciting  moment;  the  huge  hotel  is  for  the  nonce  without  a 
tenant;  and  if  the  eager  crowd  are  not,  like  the  disciples  of 
Zoroaster,  ready  with  one  accord  to  prostrate  themselves  before 
the  great  source  of  light  and  life,  there  are  probably  few  whose 
thoughts  do  not  turn  in  silent  adoration  towards  that  mighty  hand 
which  created  'the  great  light  \^hich  rules  the  day'. 

A  faint  streak  in  the  £.,  which  pales  by  degrees  the  bright- 
ness of  the  stars ,  is  the  precursor  of  the  birth  of  day.  This 
insensibly  changes  to  a  band  of  gold  in  the  extreme  horizon ; 
each  lofty  peak  is  in  succession  tinged  with  a  roseate  blush ; 
the  shadows  between  the  Rigi  and  the  horizon  gradually  melt 
away;  forests,  lakes,  hills,  towns,  and  villages  reveal  themselves; 
all  is  at  first  grey  and  cold,  until  at  length  the  sun  suddenly 
bursts  from  behind  the  mountains ,  in  all  its  majesty ,  flooding 
the  whole  of  the  superb  landscape  with  light  and  warmth  (comp. 
Panorama). 

Among  the  most  picturesque  points  of  this  magnificent  scene, 
embracing  a  circuit  of  nearly  300  miles,  are  the  Lakes  of  Zug 
and  Lucerne,  which  last  branches  off  in  so  many  directions  as 
almost  to  bewilder  the  eye;  and  they  approach  so  close  to  the 
foot  of  the  Rigi,  that  it  seems  as  if  a  stone  might  be  thrown 
into  them.     Eleven  other  small  lakes  are  also  visible. 

For  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  and  after  sunrise  the  view 
is  clearest;  at  a  later  hour  the  mists  rise  and  condense  into 
clouds,  frequently  concealing  a  great  part  of  the  landscape.    The 

chamois-hunter  in  Schiller's  Tell  aptly  observes  : 

Through  the  parting  clouds  only 

The  earth  can  be  seen, 
Far  down  'neath  the  vapour 
The  meadows  of  green. 
But  the  mists  themselves  possess  a  certain  charm,  surging  in 
the   depths   of  the  valleys,  or  veiling  the  Kulm,  and  struggling 
against   the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun.     The    different   effects   of 
light  and  shade,  varying  so  often  in  the  course  of  the  day,    are 
a   source   of   constant   admiration   to   the   spectator.     At   a   very 
early   hour   the   Bernese   Alps   are    seen    to   the  best  advantage; 
and   in   the   evening  those  to  the  E.  of  the  Bristenstock.    Those 
who  have  sufficient  leisure  will  not  repent  devoting  several  days 
to  the  Rigi.     In  the  evening  and  morning  the  vast  concourse  of 


Scheideek.  RIOI.  21.  BtmU.     67 

visitors  is  a  great  hindrance  to  the  thoughtful  study  of  the 
scene,  while  during  the  day  the  lover  of  nature  can  uninter- 
ruptedly contemplate  the  mighty  prospect  around  him.  When 
the  view  has  been  sufficiently  surveyed ,  any  leisure  time  will 
be  well  spent  in  visiting  the  Staffel,  the  Rothstock,  the  Kaltbad, 
the  Klosterli,  or  even  the  Scheideek. 

The  temperature  often  varies  as  much  as  45°  within  the  24 
hrs. ;  plaids  and  shawls,  therefore,  should  not  be  forgotten.  During 
the  prevalence  of  the  S.  wind  (Fohn)  the  mountains  seem  to 
draw  nearer ,  their  jagged  outlines  become  more  definite ,  their 
tints  warmer.  The  same  effect  is  produced  by  the  W.  wind  on 
the  Jura,  but  both  are  generally  the  precursors  of  rain. 

A  singular  atmospheric  phenomenon  is  sometimes  witnessed  on 
tlie  Bigi,  as  on  some  other  high  mountains.  When  the  vapours  rise 
perpendicularly  from  the  yalleys,  on  the  side  opposite  the  sun,  without 
enveloping  the  mountain  itself,  a  kind  of  screen  is  formed,  capable  of  ex- 
hibiting the  outline  of  the  mountain  and  any  objects  on  it.  In  such  a 
case  persons  standing  on  the  summit  of  the  Rigi  have  their  shadows  cast 
upon  this  misty  screen  in  greatly  enlarged  proportions,  encircled  by  a 
prismatic  halo,  which  is  sometimes  double,  if  the  fog  is  thick. 

In  a  basin  enclosed  by  the  Kigi-Kulni,  the  Bothstock,  and  the 
SchUd,  Vs  ^r-  ^elow  the  Rigi-Staffel,  lies  the  KldsterU  (4265'),  a 
small  Capuchin  monastery  and  hospice,  with  the  pilgrimage-chapel 
of  Maria  zum  Schnee  (p.  63),  which  was  founded  in  1689,  and  the 
inns  already  mentioned  (p.  60).  The  chapel  is  visited  by  numerous 
pilgrims,  especially  on  Dth  Aug.  and  6th  Sept.,  and  there  is  mass 
and  a  sermon  on  Sundays  for  the  herdsmen  of  the  mountain.  This 
spot  is  destitute  of  view,  but  is  sheltered  from  the  wind,  and  is  less 
exposed  to  fog  than  the  Kulm,  StafTel,  and  Scheideek.  These  are 
often  shrouded  in  dense  clouds,  while  the  Klosterli  is  beautifully 
clear.  Ascent  from  the  Klosterli  to  the  Kulm  1^4  hr.,  to  the 
Staffel,  Rothstock,  or  Schild  3/4,  Dosscn  1,  Scheideek  I3/4  hr. 

The  *Sigi-8€h«ideek  (5406')  >  the  continuation  of  the  Rigi  to 
the  S.E.,  towards  the  Lake  of  Lowerz,  with  the  hotel  mentioned  at 
p.  60,  commands  a  less  extensive  view  than  the  Kulm,  but  also 
embracing  the  entire  chain  of  mountains ,  and  some  points  not 
visible  from  the  Kulm  (see  Panorama  at  the  inn).  The  Scheid- 
eek is  a  pleasant  and  peaceful  retreat,  presenting  a  marked 
contrast  to  the  noisy  and  bustling  Kulm.  The  flat  mountain-top, 
upwards  of  1  M.  in  length,  affords  a  promenade*,  the  Dossen 
(see  below)  is  only  8/4  hr.  distant. 

SoutM  to  the  Beheidaek.  From  Gersau  (p.  71)  a  bridle-path  (3ij« 
hrs.,  descent  2  hrs.),  steep  at  places,  and  unpleanant  in  descending.  Be- 
yond the  village  cross  the  brook  and  ascend  by  a  paved  path  between 
orchards  and  farm-houses :  40  min.  Brand;  i|«  hr.,  a  saw-mill,  where  the 
brook  is  again  crossed;  10  min.,  l/nter-OsehwUnd  (tavern)*,  10  min.,  Ober- 
Qschwdnd^  where  the  path  from  Lowerz  is  joined  (see  below).  To  the  r. 
rise  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the  Hoehfluli  (5564'),  with  the  small  chapel 
of  8t.  Joseph.  On  a  sharp  ridge,  20  min.  below  the  Scheideek,  a  view  is 
suddenly  disclosed  of  the  lakes  of  Lowerz  and  Zug,  the  JEtossberg,  Goldau, 
and  Arth. 

5* 


68     RouU  22.  LAKE  OP  LUfERNE. 

From  Low  ere  (p.  57)  a  bridle-path  (3  hrs.,  guide  unnecessary), 
ascending  towards  the  S.  to  the  depression  between  the  Hochfluh  and 
Ttoariberg^  the  E.  Spur  of  the  Scheideck,  and  uniting  with  the  Gersau 
route  at  Ober-Oschwdnd  (see  above). 

From  the  Kldsterli  (see  above)  a  bridle-path  (l^ji  hr.)  ascending 
from  the  Schwert  inn  and  passing  the  Dossen  (5515'),  which  may  be 
visited  by  devoting  'U  hr.  more  to  the  walk.  (Ascend  the  saddle  to  the 
r.  between  the  Schild  and  Dossen,  1(2  hr.  from  the  Klosterli,  pass  the 
slope  above  Vitznau  commanding  a  fine  view,  and  proceed  thence  straight 
to  the  summit  of  the  Dossen,  which  affords  an  admirable  survey  of  the 
whole  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  and  the  canton  of  Unterwalden.) 

From  the  Staff  el  (p.  62)  a  good  footpath  (2  hrs.),  which  can  hardly 
be  mistaken.  At  the  Staffel  Hotel  it  diverges  to  the  1.  from  the  path  to 
the  Rothstock  and  then  skirts  the  brow  of  the  mountain  (to  the  r.  several 
views  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  the  Alps,  and  the  Klosterli  in  the  valley 
to  the  1.).  After  V^  hr.,  on  the  Fint  (4774'),  it  crosses  the  path  from  the 
Klosterli  to  the  Kaltbad,  leads  round  the  slopes  of  the  SehUd  (5095')  to 
the  saddle  between  the  Schild  and  Dossen,  skirts  the  latter,  and  then 
descends  to  the  (2U  hr.)  chalets  in  the  Elend,  a  valley  between  the  Dossen 
and  Scheideck,  where  it  joins  the  bridle-bath  from  the  Klosterli.  In 
>|4  hr.  more  the  Curhaus  is  reached.  The  ascent  of  the  Dossen  may 
easily  be  combined  with  this  route  also.  —  A  carriage-road  and  a  railway 
from  the  Kaltbad  to  the  Scheideck  are  projected. 


22.  From  Lucerne  to  Gomo  (Milan)  by  the  St.  Gh>tthaxd. 

Lake  of  Lucerne. 

steamboats  6 — ^7  times  daily  from  Lucerne  to  Fliielen  (and  back)  in 
23|4  hrs.,  express  in  2iJ4  hrs.  (to  Waggis  40  min.,  Vitznau  55  min.,  Buochs 
I'ji,  Beckenried  l*)^,  Gersau  l^j*,  Treib  2,  Brunnen  2  hrs.  5  min.,  Tells- 
Platte  2i|2  hrs.  *,  the  steamers  do  not  all  touch  at  Buochs,  Treib,  and  Tells 
Platte).  Fare  to  Fliielen  4  fr.  or  2  fr.  30  c. ;  return  tickets  available  for 
three  days  at  a  fare  and  a  half.  The  journey  must  not  be  broken.  Season 
tickets  at  greatly  reduced  rates  are  also  issued  for  the  convenience  of 
persons  making  a  prolonged  stay  on  the  banks  of  the  lake.  Each  passen- 
ger is  allowed  60  lbs.  of  luggage,  over-weight  2  c.  per  lb.  Luggage  for- 
warded by  post  fur  the  St.  Gottbard  route  should  be  addressed  to  the 
principal  office  at  Altorf,  and  not  to  Fliielen.  All  the  steamers,  except 
the  early  boat  at  4.30  a.m.,  touch  at  the  railway-station  of  Lucerne  after 
leaving  the  quay  (comp.  p.  51). 

Rowing-BoaU  arc  seldom  u.sed  by  travellers,  being  badly  constructed 
and  uncomfortable.  A  taritT  of  fares  may  be  consulted  at  the  inns  on 
the  lake. 

The  wind  sometimes  changes  with  extraordinary  rapidity,  and  the 
boatmen  maintain  that  it  blows  from  a  different  quarter  as  each  promon- 
tory is  rounded.  The  most  violent  is  the  Fiihn  (the  S.  wind),  which 
sometimes  renders  the  navigation  of  the  8.  bay  of  the  lake  (Lake  of  Uri, 
p.  72)  impracticable  for  sailing  or  rowing-boats,  and  dangerous  even  for 
steamboats.  In  fine  weather  the  Bise  (N.  wind)  usually  prevails  on  the  bay 
of  Uri  from  10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.   During  the  rest  of  the  day  a  gentle  S.  wind. 

Distances.  Fluelen  to  Amsteg  10i|«t  to  Andermatt  24,  to  the  Hospice 
of  St.  Gottbard  34,  to  Airolo  42,  to  Faido  52>)<i,  to  Bellinzona  78iJ4,  to 
Lugano  97i|2,  to  Como  117>|4  Engl.  M. 

Diligence  twice  daily  (in  1872  at  6.  40  a.  m.  and  4.  25  p.  m.)  from 
Fluelen  to  Andermatt  in  b^^  hrs.  (coup^  8  fr.  d5,  inside  seats  7>  fr.  75  c), 
to  Airolo  in  9  hrs.  (16  fr.  10  c.  or  14  fr.),  Bellinzona  in  Uij^  hrs.  (27  fr.  75 
or  24  fr.  86  c).  Lugano  in  18>|2  hrs.  (33  fr.  56  or  29  fr.  65  c),  Camerlata 
in  223J4  hrs.  (40  fr.  or  35  fr.  5  c).  Tickets  are  obtained  at  the  post-office 
at  Lucerne  (whQre  the  coup<S  may  be  secured  by  early  application)  and 
on  board  the  steamboats.    'Phe  diligences  over  the  St.  Gottbard  have  three 


LAKE  OF  LUCERNE.  22.  Route.     69 

scats  in  the  coupe  (very  comfortable,  booking  sec  above),  and  six  in  tbe 
interior  (tbe  two  middle  seats  inside  are  of  course  to  be  avoided  as  aflVird- 
ing  little  or  no  view)  \  in  addition  to  these  there  are  two  other  seats  beside 
the  conductor  and  driver  (comp.  In  trod.  IX). 

Carriages  (tariff  of  the  tJri  authorities,  of  April,  1869).  One-horse 
from  Fliielen  to  Amsteg  8.fr.,  two-horse  13  fr.  •,  to  Wasen  15  or  25,  Ander- 
matt  or  Hospenlhal  20  or  35  (there  and  back  30  or  55  fr.).  Two-horse 
carr.  from  Andermatt  to  tbe  St.  Golthard  Pass  15.  to  Airolo  30,  Faido  45, 
Bellinzona  70,  Lugano  95,  Magadiiio  85,  Como  i20  fr.,  and  a  gratuity 
(about  2  fr.  per  stage).  These  fares,  if  shared  by  four  persons,  are  little 
higher  than  the  coup^  fares  in  the  diligence.  Tbe  innkeepers  at  Fliielen, 
Andermatt,  Airolo,  Faido,  Bellinzona,  Magadino,  Lugano,  and  Como  gene- 
rally provide  good  carriages  with  trustworthy  drivers  at  the  above  fares. 
Extortionate  demands,  however,  are  occasionally  made,  especially  on  the 
Italian  side,  a  spurious  printed  tariff'  being  sometimes  exhibited.  In  every 
contract  the  number  of  horses,  duration  of  the  journey,  stations  for  the 
night,  amount  of  gratuity,  etc.,  should  be  distinctly  specified.  The 
drivers  are  prohibited  to  change  horses  (comp.  Introd.  IX).  The  impor- 
tunities of  guides,  drivers,  and  landlords,  with  which  travellers  used  to 
be  assailed  at  every  step,  and  especially  on  board  tbe  steamers,  have 
happily  been  put  a  stop  to  by  the  government. 

Tbe  St.  Ootthard  Boat«  was  tbe  most  frequented  of  all  the  Alpine 
passes  until  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  but  as  it  was  only  a  bridle- 
path, it  was  gradually  deserted  after  the  construction  of  the  roads  over  the 
Simplon  (R.  61),  the  Splugen  (RB.  87 ,  88)  and  tbe  Bernardino  (R.  90).  In 
1820  tbe  governments  of  the  cantons  of  Uri  and  Ticino  began  the  present 
road,  which  is  i%  ft.  in  width,  and  was  completed  in  1832.  In  convenience 
and  utility  it  is  second  to  none  of  the  Alpine  routes,  while  in  magmtlcence 
of  scenery  the  St.  Gotthard  pass  is  far  superior  to  any  of  the  bthers, 
especially  on  the  S.  The  St.  Gotthard  and  Bernardino  roads  arc  usually 
practicable  for  carriages  during  four  or  five  months ,  from  the  beginning 
of  June  (the  Spliigen  gcnerall>  a  week  earlier),  but  in  the  early  summer 
large  quantities  of  snow  are  often  seen  by  the  road-side.  In  winter  tra- 
vellers are  conveyed  across  the  mountain  in  small  one-horse  sledges.  After 
a  heavy  snow-storm,  communication  is  sometimes  broken  of)  for  a  whole 
week. 

St.  Gotthard  Railway.  The  St.  Gotthard  line  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction comprises  the  Lucerne^  KilMtiacht^  and  Ooldau^  the  iTv^,  Goldou^ 
Fliielen^  Odschenett,  Airolo^  Biasca^  Bellinzona,  and  Locarno,  the  Bellinzona, 
Lugano,  and  Chiasso  (Camerlata),  and  the  Bellinzona,  Magadino,  and  I*ino 
lines.  The  great  St.  Ootthard  Tunnel  will  be  9^4  H.  in  length  (i.e.  about 
12J3  M.  longer  than  the  Mont  Cenis  Tunnel),  extending  from  Ooschenen 
(p.  79)  on  the  N.  side  to  Airolo  (p.  83)  on  the  S.  side.  From  the  central 
point  of  the  tunnel  (3779'  above  the  sea-level,  i.e.  610'  lower  than  the 
highest  point  of  the  Mont  Cenis  tunnel)  there  will  be  a  fall  towards 
Goschenen  of  6'  per  1000',  and  towards  Airolo  of  1'  per  lOCKK.  This  colos- 
sal work  has  been  contracted  for  by  M.  Favre,  and  is  to  be  completed  in 
1880,  at  a  cost  of  about  50  million  fr.  The  process  of  boring  was  begun 
by  hand  at  both  ends  in  1872,  and  in  April,  1873,  after  the  erection  of  the 
requisite  apparatus,  continued  by  machinery  driven  by  means  of  compressed 
air  which  also  serves  for  the  purpose  of  ventilation.  Steam-engines,  as  well 
as  the  water-power  afforded  by  the  Reuss  at  Ooschenen  and  the  Tremola 
at  Airolo,  are  also  employed  in  the  works.  Near  Ooschenen  the  tunnel 
penetrates  the  granitic  gneiss,  which  has  hitherto  proven  free  from  water, 
but  near  Airolo  copious  subterranean  springs  have  been  encountered.  At 
this  end  the  tunnel  was  at  first  carried  through  detritus  and  dolomitic 
limestone,  but  about  100  yards  from  the  entrance  it  has  reached  mica- 
slate. 

The  **Lake  of  Lucerne  (1433')  {  Vierwaldstdtter-See,  or  'Lake 
of  the  Four  Forest  Cantons*),  which  is  bounded  by  the  cantons 
of  Uri,  Schvyyzj    Unterwalden j  and  Lucerne^    is   unsurpassed  in 


70     RouU  22.  WAGOIS.  From  Lucerne 

Switzerland,  and  probably  in  Europe,  in  magnificence  of  scenery. 
Its  beautiful  banks  are  also  intimately  connected  with  many 
historical  associations,  of  which  Schiller  has  given  an  animated 
picture  in  his  William  Tell.  The  lake  is  nearly  cruciform  in 
shape,  the  bay  of  Lucerne  forming  the  head,  those  of  Kiissnacht 
and  Alpnach  the  arms,  and  the  bay  of  Buochs  and  Lake  of  Uri 
the  foot.  Length  from  Lucerne  to  Fliielen  25  M. ,  between  the 
extremities  of  the  two  arms  15  M. ;  width  1 — 4  M.;  greatest  depth 
510  ft. 

Soon  after  the  steamboat  has  quitted  Lucerne ,  It  affords  a 
strikingly  picturesque  view  of  the  town ,  with  its  towers  and 
battlements.  To  the  1.  rises  the  Rigi,  to  the  r.  Pilatus,  facing 
the  traveller  the  Biirgenstock ,  the  Buochser,  and  the  Stanser 
Horn ;  to  the  1.  of  Pilatus  the  Schreckhorner,  Monch,  Eiger,  and 
Jungfrau  gradually  become  visible,  but  the  Finster-Aarhorn  is 
hidden.  The  small  promontory  to  the  1.,  with  a  pinnacled  villa, 
is  the  Meggenhom.  In  front  of  it  lies  Altstad  ('old  shore'),  a 
small  island  planted  with  poplars ,  so  named  because  the  bank 
of  the  lake  formerly  extended  only  thus  far,  both  banks  of  the 
Reuss  from  this  point  to  Lucerne  being  mere  marshes.  Frag- 
ments of  the  walls  of  an  old  custom-house  are  still  standing  on 
the  island. 

Beyond  the  Meggenhom,  the  lake  of  Kiissnacht  opens  to  the  1., 
and  the  bay  of  Stansstad  to  the  r.,  and  the  central  point  (^Kreuz- 
trichter')  of  the  cross  formed  by  the  lake  is  attained.  In  the 
distance  to  the  1.,  Kiissnacht  (p.  50)  is  visible ;  nearer  the  steam- 
boat, facing  the  traveller,  rises  Neu-Hdbsburg  (p.  50).  To  the 
r.  towers  the  frowning,  forest -clad  Biirgenhergj  or  Biirgenstock 
(3720'),  rising  abruptly  from  the  water  (ascent,  see  p.  89). 
From  this  part  of  the  lake  the  appearance  of  Pilatus  (p.  54) 
is  very  striking.  Its  barren  and  rugged  peaks ,  seldom  entirely 
free  from  cloud  or  mist  (p.  56),  frown  grimly  over  the  cheerful 
landsi^ape,  in  marked  contrast  to  the  Rigi  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  lake,  the  lower  slopes  of  which  are  covered  with  gardens, 
fruit-trees ,  and  houses ,  and  the  upper  with  woods  and  green 
pastures. 

Beyond  the  projecting  Tanzenherg,  on  a  tongue  of  land  to 
the  1. ,  are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  JJertenstein  embosomed  in 
wood.  Opposite  the  traveller,  in  the  distance,  peeps  the  Seheer- 
horn  with  its  two  horns.  Stat.  Hertenstein  (Pension);  then 
Waggis  (^ConcordiOy  R.  2,  B.  li/g,  !>•  3  fr.;  Uotue,  R.  from  IV2, 
B.  11/4,  A.  1^2?  pension  6  fr. ;  pensions  of  Gehrig,  Zimmer- 
mann-Schiirch,  Waldis,  etc.),  surrounded  by  ^fruit -trees  (chest- 
nuts, almonds,  figs),  a  very  sheltered  village,  the  garden  of 
Lucerne,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Rigi,  and  the  usual  landing- 
place  for  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  on  this  side  prior  to  the 
opening   of  the  railway.     In  1795  the  village  was   seriously  da- 


to  Como.  VITZNAU.  99.  RouU.     71 

mftged  by  a  mud -torrent,   which   destroyed   31  houses  (comp. 

p.  64). 

Rowing  Boat  to  Lucerne  in  2  hrs.,  7—8  fr. ;  to  Hcrgiswyl  in  2  hrs., 
8—10  fr.  —  Road  to  the  W.,  passing  the  foot  of  the  Burg  (tWb\  view), 
by  Rntimatt  (^Rigiblick,  a  prettily-situated  tavern)  and  (2  M.)  Oreppen 
(p.  50)  to  (1(2  M .)  KUssnacht  (p.  50) ;  another  along  the  bank  of  the  lake  to 
the  £.  to  (2  H.)  Vitznau,  a  charming  walk. 

As  the  steamer  approaches  Vitznau,  the  traveller  perceives  the 
Rigi  Railway  mounting  the  hill  to  the  1.,  with  the  bridge  across  the 
Schnurtobel  (p.  62)  halfway  up.  Vitanan,  or  Fiiznau  (Hdtel 
Pfyffer;  H6tel  Rigi,  at  the  station  and  on  the  lake,  with  lake  baths; 
Weisses  Kreuz;  Bail.  Bettaurant),  prettily  situated  at  the  base  of 
the  VitzfMuer  Stock,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Rigi  Railway,  the 
station  of  which  is  close  to  the  landing-place  of  the  steamboats. 
High  above  the  village  rises  the  precipitous  Rothenftuh,  in  which 
the  WaldisbcUmy  a  stalactite  grotto  330  yds.  in  length,  and  difficult 
of  access,  is  situated. 

Two  promontories  here  extend  far  into  the  lake,  apparently 
terminating  it,  the  one  a  spur  of  the  Rigi,  the  other  a  part  of 
the  Biirgenstock  (see  above).  These  are  aptly  termed  the  Naaen 
(noses),  and  may  possibly  have  been  once  united.  Beyond  the  E. 
Nase  the  snow -clad  pyramid  of  the  Todt  (p.  294)  and  the  two 
peaks  of  the  Pragel  (p.  302)  become  visible.  Beyond  this  strait 
the  lake  takes  the  name  of  Lake  of  Buochsj  from  the  village  of 
Bnochs  (Kreuz)y  which  was  burned  down  by  the  French  in  1798, 
a  pleasant  rustic  retreat,  above  which  rise  the  Buochser  Horn 
and  the  Stanser  Horn  (ascent  seep.  86).  One-horse  carr.  from 
Enochs  to  Engelberg  12,  two -horse  20  fr.  and  fee  (comp. 
p.  86). 

BeekenriAd  (*<S^onn€;  *H6tel  et  Pension  FeUer ;  *Mond,  R.  IV2, 
B.  1  fr. ;  good  pension  at  all  about  5  fr.;  Stem,  on  the  lake), 
formerly  the  place  of  assembly  for  the  delegates  from  the  Four 
Forest  Cantons.  Diligence  to  Stans  every  afternoon  in  1  hr., 
see  p.  86 ;  two-horse  carriage  to  Brienz  50,  one-horse  30  fr. ; 
one-horse  carr.  to  Engelberg  (p.  87)  15,  two-horse  25 — 30  fr. ; 
there  and  back  35 — 40  fr.  (charges  lower  before  and  after  the 
season). 

From  Beckenried  to  Seelisberff  (2»|3  hrs.).  The  road  leads  by 
Emmatten  (^Schonegg,  a  charmingly-situated  hydropathic  and  whey-cure 
establishment,  pension  from  5  fr.),  a  pleasant  walk  as  long  as  the  lake 
remains  in  sight.  It  then  leads  through  a  grassy  dale  between  the  slopes 
\>f  the  Stutzherg  on  the  1.  and  the  Seelisberger  Kulm  on  the  r.,  and  past 
the  SeelUberger  See  to  the  JSonnenberg  (p.  72).  —  Ascent  of  the  Seelisberger 
Kulm^  see  p.  72. 

On  the  opposite  bank,  on  a  narrow  but  fertile  strip  of  land, 
lies  the  viUage  of  Gersau  (*H6tel  MulUr,  R.  2—4,  B.  IV4,  L. 
and  A.  IV4)  !)•  3,  pension  exd.  room  5  fr.,  L.  per  week  1, 
A.  2'/2— 4  fr. ;  Sonne)  in  the  Canton  of  Schwyz,  completely  en- 
closed by  rocks.  Its  broad-roofed  cottages,  scattered  along  the 
slope  of  the  mountain,  and  the   surrounding    orchards   give   it  a 


72     Boute  22.  SEELISBERG.  Frorn  Lucerne 

very  attractive  appearance.  The  village  being  protected  from 
cold  winds  is  recommended  as  a  spring  or  autumn  residence 
for  invalids.  In  the  ravine  behind  it  is  a  silk-spinning  mill,  and 
above,  on  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  the  inn  on  the  Rigi-Scheid- 
eck  (p.  67).  During  four  centuries  this  diminutive  corner  of 
land,  scarcely  8  sq.  M.  in  extent,  and  with  only  1000  inhab. 
(Gersau  has  now  2274),  enclosed  between  the  Vitznauerstock 
(4750')  and  the  Hochfluh^  boasted  of  being  an  independent 
state ,  the  smallest  in  the  world ,  till  the  French  deprived  it 
of  its  rights  in  1798.  The  town -hall  bears  the  following 
inscription :  ^Received  into  the  Confederacy  1316,  purchcued  its 
freedom  1390 ,  anrhexed  to  the  Canton  of  Schwyz  1817'.  Not 
many  years  ago  Gersau  was  a  rendezvous,  on  the  anniversary  of 
the  consecration  of  the  church,  of  all  the  beggars  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  who  during  three  days  indulged  in  fare  to 
which  for  the  rest  of  the  year  they  were  entire  strangers;  the 
three  festive  days  expired,  this  choice  assembly  dispersed  to 
their  accustomed  haunts  and  avocations.  (Path  to  the  Rigi- 
Scheideck,  see  p.  67.) 

The  chapel  on  the  bank  to  the  E.  of  Gersau  is  caUed  Kind- 
limord  (infanticide)  from  the  story  that  a  poor  fiddler,  returning 
from  a  wedding  at  Treib,  here  dashed  out  the  brains  of  his 
starving  Infant  against  the  rocks.  The  spot  is  indicated  by  a 
black  cross.  Pleasant  walk  from  Gersau  by  Kindlimord  to  (6  M.) 
Brunnen  by  the  new  road  (p.  74)  along  the  bank,  and  also  to 
(6  M.)  Yitznau.  To  the  E.  rise  the  barren  peaks  of  the  two 
Mythen  (6243'  and  5955'),  at  the  base  of  which ,  3  M.  inland, 
lies  Schwyz  (p.  58);  nearer  rises  the  church  of  IngenboU,  and 
in  the  distance  to  the  r.  the  Aehselberg  or  Achslenstock  (7057'), 
with  its  crown  of  bare  crags,  resembling  a  ruined  castle. 

The  steamer  now  crosses  the  lake  to  Treib,  a  solitary  house 
in  the  canton  of  Uri,  formerly  an  excise  station,  now  an  inn, 
at  the  foot  of  the  precipitous  Sonnenbergj  the  landing-place  for 
the  village  of  CtoeUsberg  (2628')  (^BdUl-Pension  Mauser,  5  fr.), 
situated  1  hr.  above  it. 

The  *Carhaus  Bonnenberg  (3287'),  situated  near  the  Chapel  of  Maria- 
Sonnenberg,  20  min.  above  Seelisberg,  consists  of  three  houses  sheltered 
by  a  wood,  and  much  frequented  from  June  to  the  end  of  September 
for  the  sake  of  the  pure  mountain  air  and  the  whey -cure.  Pension 
5  fr.  and  upwards.  Beautiful  view  from  the  Kdnzli  ^  '(4  hr.  (in  the  wood 
to  the  r.)  over  the  lake  and  the  plain  as  far  as  the  Weissenstein.  About 
i|2  hr.  S.  of  the  Curhaus  lies  the  picturesque  Seelisberger  See  (247(y),  on 
the  precipitous  N.  side  of  the  Niederbauen,  or  ^Seelisberger  Kahn  (6315')t 
which  may  be  ascended  from  the  Curhaus  (guide  necessary,  5  fr.  and 
fee)  in  3»(2 — 4  hrs.,  or  from  Emmatten  (see  below)  in  3>J2  hrs.  The  path  to 
Emmatten  is  followed  towards  the  N.,  passing  the  Seelisberg  lake;  after 
ijs  hr.  the  route  is  to  the  1.  towarda  the  base  of  the  Bauen.  The  ascent 
is  steep,  and  after  rainy  weather  disagreeable.  The  narrow  path  leads  part 
of  the  way  through  wood,  descending  for  a  short  distance.  None  but  good 
walkers  should  attempt  the  excursion.  —  The  ascent,  however,  is  easier 
if  the  path  to  Emmatten  be  followed   for  1  hr. ;    the   route   then   ascends 


to  Como,  BRUNNEN.  22.  BouU.     73 

rapidly  across  pastures  for  >|4  br.,  traverses  the  wood  for  1  hr.,  and  gentle 
grassy  slopes  for  ijz  hr. ,  and  reaches  the  chalet  (Alpine  fare,  bed  of 
hay  if  necessary),  whence  the  summit  is  attained  in  40  min.  more.  The 
ascent  from  Emmatten  is  the  shortest,  as  it  begins  >|4  hr.  from  the  vil- 
lage-    The  *view  is  preferred  by  many  to  that  from  the  Rigi. 

Those  who  intend  to  walk  from  Seelisberg  to  Bauen ,  situated  on  a 
bay  of  the  Lake  of  Uri,  and  then  cross  the  lake  to  Telfs  Platte  or  Fliielen, 
turn  towards  the  lake  IJ4  hr.  beyond  Seelisberg,  where  the  rocks  descend 
precipitously  to  the  lake  (the  Schvoandifluh  and  Tev/eUm&nsUr  y  see  Schil- 
ler's Tell,  Act  IV,  8c.  1),  and  proceed  thence  by  a  narrow  but  safe  path 
to  Baven  (p.  75),  a  very  attractive  walk. 

Opposite  Treib,  on  the  £.  bank  of  the  lake,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  MuottOy  lies  the  large  village  of 

Bnumen  (* WaldstatUr  Hof  on   the   lake,    a  large   flrst-class 

hotel;  *Adlerj  with  a  'dependance'  on  the  Axenstrasse,  R.  172* 

B.  1^4,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ;  •UomW,  pension  5fr.;    ^Pension   Jnder- 

bitzi,  on  the  iake ;  *Pension  Aufdermaur,  on  the  Giitsch ;  *Hir8eh, 

R.  2,  B.  1,  D.  21/2  fr.;  lake-baths  1/2  ^'Oj  **»«  Port  of  the  canton 

of  Schwyz ,    perhaps   the  most  beautifully-situated  place   on  the 

Lake  of  Lucerne,    of  late  years   much  frequented,   and  suitable 

for  a  stay  of  some  duration.     The  handsome  old  goods-magazine 

is  decorated   with   frescoes.     The  boatmen   and  carriage  -  drivers 

of  Brui.nen  are  noted  for  the  exorbitance  of  their  charges.    Ferry 

to   Treib   1^2  fr-    —   Johann  Baumann   is   recommended   as  a 

boatman  and  guide. 

Fine  view  from  the  Otitsch  (pension,  see  above),  a  slight  eminence 
behind  Brunnen,  embracing  the  two  arms  of  the  lake  and  the  lovely  val- 
ley of  Schwys.  —  Beautiful  walk  to  (2  H.)  Morsehaeh  (2156'),  to  which 
a  good  carriage  -  road  leads  from  the  Axenstrasse.  The  *Curhatts  Azenateia 
iJidUl  and  Pension^  R.  2—4  fr.,  pension  from  6  fr.,  A.  3  fr.  per  week),  a 
large  establishment  on  an  eminence  called  the  'Brandli\  with  well-shaded 
pleasure-grounds,  3  H.  from  Brunnen,  commands  a  splendid  survey  of  both 
arms  of  the  lake.  Omnibus  twice  daily  to  and  from  Brunnen ,  2i|s  fr. ; 
one-horse  carr.  5,  two-horse  12  fr.  In  a  geological  point  of  view  the  nu- 
merous erratic  blocks  found  near  Morsehaeh  are  interesting  (comp.  Introd. 
XIV).  —  The  Btosa  (4242^),  a  chapel  on  the  N.  spur  of  the  Frohnalp, 
with  a  *Curhatu  (pension  5  fr.),  is  another  point  of  view,  3  hrs.  from 
Brannen  (a  boy  should  be  taken  from  Morschacli  to  show  the  way).  From 
Schwys  to  the  Stoss  by  Obtr-Bchdnenhuch  Sifs  hrs.  —  From  the  ^Frohaalp- 
•toek  (5787'),  lifa  hr.  8.  of  the  Stoss ,  a  magnificent  view  is  enjoyed ,  em- 
bracing the  entire  Lake  of  Lucerne  with  a  finer  foreground  than  that  seen 
from  the  Rigi  (inn  on  the  summit;  panorama  V\2  fr.).  A  chalet  with 
nefreshments  20  min.  from  the  top.  —  Walk  on  the  Axenstrasse  (p.  74). 
—  Other  excursions  \  to  the  Lake  of  Lowerz  (p.  57) ,  by  Wylen  and  back 
by  Schwyz  (p.  58)  \  to  the  Huottathal  (p.  301)  as  far  as  the  fall  of  the  6e- 
stubtbach  near  Ried  \  to  the  Kindlimord  Chapel  (p.  72)  and  Gersau 
(p.  71);  to  the  Riitli  (see  below);  to  Seelisberg,  Bauen,  etc.  (see  above); 
to  Teir«  Chapel  (p.  74);  to  the  Hythen  (p.  58). 

At  Brunnen  begins  the  S.  arm  of  the  lake,  termed  the  Lake 
of  Uri.  The  banks  approach  each  other,  and  the  mountains  rise 
almost  perpendicularly  from  the  lake.  Lofty  snow -clad  peaks, 
often  partially  veiled  with  clouds,  are  visible  through  the  gorges 
which  open  at  intervals. 

Opposite  the  sharp  angle  of  rock  which  here  juts  into  the 
lake,  near  the   W.  bank,  rittes   the   Wytenstein,   or   MytensUin, 


74     Route  22.  TELL\S  PLATTE.  From  Lucerne 

a  pyramid  of  rock ,  80'  in  height ,  bearing  an  inscription  to 
the  memory  of  Schiller,  the  'Bard  of  Tell',  in  colossal  gilt  let- 
ters. The  rock  bears  a  second  Inscription  to  of  a  young  Swiss 
officer,  who  accidentally  lost  his  life  at  this  spot  some  years  ago. 
About  1  M.  farther,  below  Seelisberg  (p.  72),  and  5  min. 
from  its  N.  landing-place,  are  the  three  springs  of  the  Satli  or 
Orutli ,  which  trickle  from  an  artiflciaUy  planted  rock ,  sur- 
rounded by  pretty  grounds.  This  plateau,  with  an  *inn  built  in 
1868,  belongs  to  the  Confederation.    The  spot  is  thus  described 

by  Walter  Fiirst  in  Schiller  a  TeU:  — 

''On  tbe  lake's  left  bank, 

As  we  sail  hence  to  Brunnen,  right  against 

The  Mythenstein,  deep  hidden  in  the  wood 

A  meadow  lies,  by  shepherds  called  the  Rootli, 

Because  the  wood  has  been  uprooted  there. 

'Tis  where  our  canton^s  boundaries  verge  on  yours; 

Thither  by  lonely  by-paths  let  us  wend 

At  midnight  and  deliberate  o'er  our  plans^. 
At  this  romantic  spot,  on  the  memorable  night  of  7th  Kov.,  13Q7, 
33  men,  from  Uri,  8chwy2,  and  Unterwalden,  assembled  and  bound  them- 
selves by  an  oath  to  be  faithful  to  each  other,  and  not  to  rest  until  they 
bad  driven  their  oppressors  from  the  soil.  Tradition  relates  that  on  the 
spot  where  the  three  confederates,  Werner  Stauffacher  of  Steinen  in  Schwyz, 
Erni  (Arnold)  of  Melchthal  in  Unterwalden,  and  Walter  FUrst  of  Atting- 
hausen  in  Uri,  stood  when  the  oath  was  taken,  three  fountains  sprang  up, 
over  which  a  hut  was  subsequently  erected. 

About  20  min.  later,  the  steamer  passes  Siaikon  (Pension 
Uri-Rothstock,  4*/2  fr.)on  the  E.  bank,  where  the  rugged  AchsUn- 
stock  (p.  72)  is  visible  through  a  gorge.  It  next  reaches  stat. 
Tail's  Platte,  a  ledge  of  rock  at  the  base  of  the  Axenfiuh  or 
Axenberg.  (3353'),  where,  shaded  by  overhanging  trees  and  washed 
by  the  waters  of  the  lake ,  stands  the  romantic  TeWs  Chapel^ 
containing  rude  frescoes  of  scenes  from  the  history  of  the  illus- 
trious Swiss  patriot  (which  are  to  be  replaced  by  paintings  more 
worthy  of  the  spot).  It  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
Canton  of  Uri  in  1388  on  the  spot  where  the  Swiss  liberator 
«prang  out  of  Gessler's  boat,  but  is  obviously  of  later  date.  In 
ascending  from  the  landing-place  the  first  path  to  the  r.  descends 
to  the  chapel.  On  the  Sunday  after  Ascension-day,  mass  is 
performed  here,  and  a  patriotic  sermon  preached,  the  service 
being  attended  by  great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  neigh- 
bouring shores  in  boats  gaily  decorated  for  the  occasion.  A  good 
path  ascends  from  the  landing-place  in  8  min.  to  the  *H6tel  zur 
Telleplatte  (R.  1,  B.  1,  A.  1/2  ^^'t  pension  5  fr.),  with  pleasure 
grounds  and  a  charming  view  (baths  at  the  landing-place),  si- 
tuated on  the  Axenstrasse.  The  peculiar,  contorted  formation 
of  the  calcareous  strata  of  the  Axenfiuh  attracts  the  attention 
even  of  the  unscientific.  The  ^AsMBitratfe,  leading  from 
Gersau  to  Brunnen  and  Fliielen,  and  affording  a  succession  of 
beautiful  views,  is  also  extremely  interesting  from  its  bold  con- 
struction,   and  in  several  places  penetrates  the  rock   by  means 


to  Como.  FLCELSN.  22.  HouU.     75 

of  tunnels  (7*/2  M.  from  Brnnnen  to  Fliielen).  The  finest  part 
is  between  the  Tell's  Platte  Inn  and  Fluelen  [^^j^  M.),  leading 
through  the  great  *Axeniunnel  ^  which  pierces  a  projecting  but- 
tress of  the  Axenberg  high  above  the  lake. 

As  soon  as  the  chapel  is  passed,  Fiuelen  becomes  visible ,  and 
is  reached  by  steamer  in  20  min.  more.  The  scenery  of  this 
part  of  the  lake  is  strikingly  imposing.  Opposite  the  Tlatte'  on 
the  W.  bank  lies  the  hamlet  of  Bauen,  and,  farther  on,  the 
solitary  houses  of  Isleten,  at  the  mouth  of  the  IsentfuU  (worthy  of 
a  visit),  which  divides  near  the  village  (2524')  of  that  name 
(*Adler,  rustic)  into  the  Grosse  Isenthal,  to  the  S.,  bounded  by 
the  Engelberger-Rothstock  (9252'),  and  the  Kleine  Isenthal ,  ter- 
minated by  the   Vri-Rothsioek  (9620'). 

Through  the  Orossthal^  in  which  the  Alpine  hamlet  of  St.  Jakob 
is  situated,  the  traveller  may  either  proceed  to  the  W.  passing  between  the 
Hohenbriesen  (TSKX)  and  the  Kaiserstock  (7877') ,  over  the  SchUnegg  -  Pa** 
(6315',  very  steep  on  the  farther  side),  and  by  Ober-Rickenbach  (2966^)  to 
(5>f2  hrs.)  Wol/engchiessen  (p.  87)  i  or  to  the  S.W.,  over  the  Rothgrdtli  (8419') 
to  (10  hrs.)  Engelberg  (p.  ^).  —  Through  the  Kleinihal  a  rugged  path 
passing  the  Musenalp  (2  hrs.),  leads  to  the  rocky  terrace  ^im  Kessel", 
ascending  steep  strata  of  slate,  and  crossing  a  gently  sloping  glacier  on  the 
S.  side  of  the  mounUin  to  the  summit  of  the  *  Uri  •  Bothatook  (9621/), 
in  8 — 9  hrs.  (guide  necessary,  15  fr.).  An  easier ,  but  considerably  longer 
path  leads  by  the  Schloss/elten  in  the  Grossthal  along  the  Sehwartfim-QlcLcier 
by  the  Hangbautn-Alp  to  the  Bliimlisalp.,  and  across  disintegrated  rocks 
to  the  summit.  If  the  traveller  wishes  to  reach  the  top  early  in  the 
morning,  he  must  spend  the  night  in  the  chalet  on  the  Hangbaum  -  Alp. 
Descent  easiest  through  the  Grossthal  (see  above).  From  £ngelberg  the 
ascent  may  be  made  in  7—8  hrs.  The  Uri-Rothstock  like  the  Titlis,  is, 
almost  perpendicular  on  the  £.  and  8.E.  sides,  and  is  composed  of  gigantic 
and  contorted  limestone  rocks,  torn  asunder  and  piled  one  on  another  in 
fantastic  but  magnificent  confusion.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  ex- 
tremely imposing:  to  the  8.  the  chain  of  the  Alps,  with  the  Sentis  at 
their  E.  extremity  ^  immediately  below  lies  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  at  a  depth 
of  800(y;  to  the  N.E.  and  N.  the  view  embraces  the  Rigi,  PiliUius,  and  the 
Entlebuch  mountains,  the  lower  hills  of  N.  Switzerktnd ,  and  the  plains 
of  Germany. 

On  the  saddle  between  the  two  peaks  of  the  Uri-Rothstock 
lies  a  glacier,  distinctly  visible  from  the  lake;  adjoining  it,  on 
the  1.  is  the  Oitschen  (8333'),  rising  abruptly  from  the  lake,  with 
its  summit  resembling  a  castle.  Between  Fluelen  and  Seedorf 
(1447'),  a  village  to  the  r.,  with  a  convent,  the  Reuss  (see  be- 
low) flows  into  the  lake  by  an  artificial  channel.  The  Reussthal 
Is  formed  by  the  huge  pyramid  of  the  Bristenstoek  (10,088'), 
adjoining  which  rise  the  Oreat  and  Little  Windgelle  (10,463'). 

25  M.  Fiaelen  (1433'),  Ital.  Flora  {^AdUr,  R.  2,  B.  I1/2, 
D.  3,  A.  and  L.  1  fr. ;  *Kt€uz,  moderate;  Tell;  all  near  the 
quay.  Baths  in  the  lake,  on  the  Axenstrasse,  ^2  ^-  ^^^m 
Fliielen.  Carriages,  see  p.  69)  is  the  port  of  Uri.  Behind  the 
church  is  the  small  chliteau  of  Rudenz,  which  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Attinghausen  family.  The  Renss  has  been  here  converted 
into  a  canal  (I/2  br.  walk,  or  ^/i  ^^-  ^Y  ^o*t  to  ^*s  influx). 


.1 1 

tatnl 
(SO 


SI 


to  Como,  AMSTEG.  ^2.  RouU.     77 

in   Schiller's  Tell  is  said   to  have  died  in  this  castle  in  1307. 

(Route  to  Engelberg  by  the  Surenen  pass,  see  R.  23.) 

Beyond  (iy2  M.)  Bottlingen  the  background  of  the  valley  is 

formed  by  the  pyramidal  Brisienstock  (p.  78).     To  the  r.  rise  the 

bold  precipices  of  the  Gitschen  (see  above)  and  the  Bockli  (6808'), 

to  the  1.  the  Mittagatock  (6663'),  Belmiatock  (7933'),  Hoher  Faulen 

(8212'),  and  finally  the  two  Windgellen  (see  below).     The  church 

of  (3  M.)  Efiifeld  (Postablage)  is  on  the  opposite  bank   of  the 

Reuss  i^ronte  to  the  Surenen  Pass,  see  p.  88).     At  (8/4  M.)  Klni 

the  road  approaches  nearer  the  river.     To  the  1.  rise  the   KUine 

Windgelle^  or  Sewelittock  (9846'),  and   the  Grosse   WindgeUe^  or 

Kalksioek  (10,463'). 

Tbe  Erstfelder  Thai,  on  the  I.  bank  of  the  Reuss,  opens  near  the 
parish  church,  and  extends  to  the  Srhlossberg  Olaciety  a  walk  uf  4  hrs.  be- 
tween steep  and  lofty  mountains.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  are  two 
Alpine  lakes,  the  gloomy  Faulensee  ('(2  hr.  from  the  glacier)  and  the  Obersee^ 
1  hr.  farther  to  the  S.,  at  the  base  of  the  Krdnlet  (10,197').  The  Faulen- 
bachy  which  flows  out  of  the  latter,  forms  a  beautiful  cascade.  A  difficult 
pass  (10 — 11  hrs. ;  experienced  guide  necessary)  leads  hence  over  the  Schloss- 
hei^  Glacier  and  the  Spanndrterjoch  to  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of 
Engelberg.    By  the  Surenen-Pass  to  Engelberg,  see  p.  88. 

On  the  road  to  (2^2  M.)  SU^^nen  (1771')  a  beautiful  view  is 
obtained  of  the  pyramid  of  the  Briatenaiock  (10,085'),  occupying 
the  entire  background,  and  visible  from  base  to  summit.  Near 
the  chapel  of  the  'fourteen  saints  who  help  the  needy'  stands  the 
tower  of  the  old  castle  of  Sil^nen. 

'  10 V2  Amtteg  (1758')  (*8tem  or  Post:  *Kreut;  ^Hiraeh;  Lowe; 
in  all,  R.  I1/2,  B.  1  fr.),  a  small,  substantially  buUt  village, 
beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Bristenstock  and  the  Wind- 
gelle,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maderaner  Thal^  through  which  the 
Kdrsteienhaeh  descends  to  the  Reuss. 

The  ^Xaderaaer  Thai  (4  hrs.  from  Bristen  to  the  Hufl- Glacier), 
enclosed  by  lofty  mountains  (N.  the  Great  and  Little  WindgoUe,  the  Great 
and  Little  Ruchen,  and  the  Scheerhom*,  S.  the  Bristenstock,  Weitenalpstock, 
Oberalpstock,  and  Diissistock),  and  traversed  by  the  impetuous  K&rstelen- 
baehy  abounds  in  picturesque  and  imposing  scenery.  The  path  (longer  route 
by  the  Staffeln  see  below)  crosses  the  Karstelenbach  at  Amsteg  and  ascends 
rapidly  either  to  the  r.  (iji  hr.  longer)  or  to  the  1.  through  forest,  past  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Antony  to  {}\a  hr.)  the  hamlet  Bristen  (Inn  of  the  cure).  The  path 
then  slightly  descends  and  crosses  to  the  r.  bank  of  the  foaming  Karstelen- 
bach. After  7min.  avoid  the  bridge  to  the  r.,  leading  to  the  narrow  Etzli- 
tfaal  (see  below).  After  25  min.  the  path  recrosses  to  the  1.  bank  (fine  view 
from  the  bridge)  and  leads  to  the  (5  min.)  houses  Am  Schattigen  Berg. 
It  then  ascends  across  pastures  to  the  (40  min.)  inn  on  the  Ltngenstutz^ 
and  in  5  min.  more  to  the  Cross  of  that  name,  which  commands  a  fine 
view  (during  the  ascent  the  fall  of  the  Oolzembach  is  seen  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  valley).  It  next  crosses  the  Oriessenbachy  and  leads,  partly 
through  pine-forest,  to  the  chalets  of  Stdssi;  it  then  crosses  the  brook  at  a 
Saw-milly  leads  between  the  pine-trees,  passes  the  houses  ('ji  hr.)  on  the 
Balmwald ,  and  in  ^\i  hr.  more  reaches  the  ^Hdlel  Alpenclub  (R.  and  L.  8, 
D.  3,  B.  I'.U  fr. ;  guides  for  glacier  expeditions  may  generally  be  met  with 
here),  recommended  as  head-quarters  for  excursions  among  the  Todi-group. 
Fine  view  from  the  garden.  Interesting  walk  (2 — 3  hrs.  there  and  back)  to 
the  *HUfi-Otacier;  from  the  inn  a  rocky  eminence  is  reached  in  'J4  hr., 
whence  a  fine  survey  is  obtained  of  this  vast  ice  -  cataract ;  then  a  descent 


78     BouU  22.  INTSCHI.  From  Lucerne 

of  l^ls  hr.  to  the  end  of  the  glacier,  where  the  Karstelenhach  issues  from 
it  5  cross  the  latter  to  the' waterfalls  of  the  Lammernbach  and  the  *8tduber- 
bachy  descending  from  the  Brunnithal  (most  imposing  towards  evening  \  best 
point  of  view  a  green  hill  rising  from  the  bottom  of  the  valley).  Return 
to  the  inn  by  the  chalets  of  Ouffem  and  Balmwald.  —  The  traveller  re- 
turning to  Amsteg  is  recommended  to  take  the  path  (6  hrs.)  by  the  Staf- 
/eln,  the  lofty  pastures  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  valley  ^  from  the  inn  (with 
guide)  in  Qijs  hrs.  to  the  Alp  Btmeitmait  (magnificent  *view  \  immediately 
opposite  rises  the  huge  Oberalpstock^  or  Piz  Tgietschen,  see  below)  ^  then  cross 
the  Oolzern  Alps^  by  the  lonely  Oolzem-See  (4636'),  in  which  trout  abound, 
and  descend  to  (3  hrs.)  Britten.  —  Interesting  glacier  -  excursion  (13  hrs.  j 
good  guides  necessary  \  Amb.  Zgraggen  and  M.  Tr&»ch  at  Amsteg  are  re- 
commended) across  the  Hil/i  Glacier  and  the  Clariden-  Pass  to  the 
Baths  of  Stachelberg  (p.  293) :  to  the  Hiifi  Alp  2»(«  hrs.  \  fine  view  from 
an  eminence  to  the  1. ;  then  a  steep  ascent,  and  after  M  min.  down  to  the 
HUfi  Glacier y  the  extensive  snow-fields  of  which  are  ascended  gradually  and 
without  great  difficulty  to  the  (3— 31J2  hrs.)  pass  of  the  Claridengrat  (9643'), 
at  the  S.  base  of  the  Claridenstock  (10,709').  Then  descend  across  the  Cla- 
rideriifirn  (the  rock  to  the  N.,  with  an  aperture  in  the  middle,  is  the 
Bocktschingel)  in  a  straight  direction,  by  the  Altenorenalp  and  the  Auen- 
gilter  (p.  293)  to  Stachelberg  (5  hrs.)^  or  to  the  r.  to  the  Upper  Sand- Alp 
(p.  294)  in  2i|4,  and  thence  in  5  hrs.  to  Stachelberg  (a  very  interesting 
route).  Those  who  select  the  latter  route  may,  if  fatigued,  sleep  at  the 
chalets  of  the  Upper  Sandalp  (bed  of  hay),  and  descend  to  Stachelberg 
next  morning.  (This  route  and  the  ascent  of  the  Todi,  see  p.  294.)  —  By 
the  Brunni-Pass  to  Dissentis  (11  hrs.),  a  grand  excursion,  but  inferior 
to  the  last;  trustworthy  guides  necessary.  The  path  ascends  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  valley  by  (lif4  hr.)  RinderbiM  to  the  (2  hrs.)  Brunni  Gkicier,  which  anr 
nually  alters  its  form  and  requires  caution.  In  2  hrs.  more  the  culminating 
point  is  reached  (8976'),  commanding  a  superb  view  of  the  Oberalpstock. 
Then  descend  through  the  wild  Aclettathal  to  (3  hrs.)  Acletta  and  (1/4  hr.) 
Dissentis  (p.  308).  —  From  Amsteg  through  the  EizUthdl  and  across  the 
Kreuzli-Pass  to  Sedrun  (8 hrs.),  a  fatiguing  walk:  to  the  pass  (771C0 
5*J2  hrs.,  and  thence  down  the  Strimthal  to  Sedrun  (p.  309). 

The  Oberalpstock,  or  Piz  Tgietschen  (10,925*),  the  ascent  of  which  pre- 
sents no  serious  difficulty,  is  a  striking  point  of  view.  Either  proceed 
from  the  Alpenclub  Hotel  to  the  Brunni  Glacier  in  31/4  hrs.,  and  ascend 
on  the  latter  to  the  summit  in  3*|2— 4  hrs.  more;  or  cross  from  Amsteg  to 
the  upper  part  of  the  Strimthal  by  the  Kreuzli  Pass,  and  ascend  thence 
over  steep  slopes  and  the  Strim-Gletscher  ^  thus  reaching  the  summit  from 
the  E.  side  (7—- 8  hrs.  •,  from  Sedrun  1  hr.  less).     Able  guides  necessary. 

The  Bristenstock  (10,0680  ^  ascended  from  Amsteg  (in  6—7,  down  in  5 
hrs.;  not  without  guide),  affords  an  Admirable  survey  of  the  mountains  of 
the  Reuss  and  Maderaner  valleys. 

Beyond  Amsteg  the  road  crosses  the  Reuss,  and  here  the 
St.  Gotthard  route,  properly  so  called,  begins;  on  the  1.  is  the 
vast  pyramid  of  the  Bristenstock ;  below  rushes  the  foaming  Reuss 
through  its  ravine,  forming  a  succession  of  waterfalls.  (The  old 
St.  Gotthard  road  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Reuss  "from  Amsteg 
to  the  second  bridge.)  In  the  early  summer  huge  masses  of  ava- 
Ianche-«now,  which  present  the  appearance  of  earth  or  detritus, 
are  seen  in  some  of  the  gorges.     Beyond 

Inttchi  (2168')  (Lamm,  rustic),  1^2  ^-  ^^om  Amsteg,  a  fall 
of  the  Intschialpbach  is  passed.  A  picturesquely  situated  bridge 
carries  the  road  back  to  the  r.  bank  of  the  Reuss.  A  little  far- 
ther the  road  crosses  the  FeUibach,  on  the  rocks  of  which  the 
violet-moss  (a  reddish  lichen,  with  violet-scent)  grows  plentifully. 
On  the   hill  opposite  stands  the  hamlet  of  GurtneUen,     Beyond 


to  Cotno.  60SCfl£I4EN.  22,  BouU.     79 

the  viUage  of  Wilier  is  a  third  bridge  (2661'),  the  Pfaffemprung 
('priest's  leap',  from  the  tradition  that  a  monk  once  leaped  across 
the  stream  here  with  a  girl  in  his  arms)  by  which  the  road  re- 
crosses  to  the  1.  bank.  Far  below,  the  river  is  precipitated  through 
a  narrow  gorge.  View  beautiful  in  both  directions.  The  road 
crosses  the  impetuous  Meienback  ( Mtiei^Rtuss),  which  rises  on  the 
Susten  (p.  132),  shortly  before  reaching  (6  M.) 

Waaen  (2756')  (*B&Ul  des  Alpta;  *0eh8;  *KroM,  R.  21/2, 
D.  31/2,  B.  IV4,  A.  1/2  fr),  a  considerable  village  with  a  loftUy 
situated  church  (magnificent  view  from  the  terrace).  The  foot- 
path ascending  to  the  r. ,  50  yds.  beyond  the  bridge ,  cuts  off 
the  windings  of  the  road. 

Near  (8/4  M.)  Wattingeu  (2998')  is  the  fourth  bridge  over  the 
Beuss,  above  which,  to  the  r.,  is  a  beautiful  fall  of  the  Roht' 
bach.  The  village  consists  of  a  few  roadside  houses,  one  of  which, 
with  a  rude  representation  of  the  Rtitli  conspiracy,  is  said  to 
have  been  the  ancestral  dwelling  of  the  Barons  of  Wattingen. 

The  (8/4  M.)  fifth  bridge  (^Sckonibruek,  3212')  crosses  to  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Reuss.  To  the  1.  of  the  road  rises  the  Teufels- 
stein,  a  huge  mass  of  rock.  The  next  place  is  (8/4  M.)  Ooaoh^nen, 
or  Oeschenen  (3609')  (^Rostli,  R.  IV2)  B.  Ifr.;  Hotel  dea  Alpea), 
at  the  mouth  of  the  wild  and  beauttful  Qbwhenen-'Thal ,   from 

which  the  Ooschtnen'BeuM  descends. 

AttracUve  excursion  hence  to  the  (3  hrs.)  0&»chenen  Alp,  near  the 
head  of  the  valley.  A  good  path  leads  by  Ab/ruH  to  (1>|4  hr.)  Wicki 
(4M0'),  where  the  Voralp-Thal  branches  off  to  the  r.  ^  from  its  narrow 
mouth  (the  Kalfbrunnen-Kehle)  the  Voralper  Rrnus  is  precipitated  in  a 
picturesque  fall.  The  path  in  the  main  valley  next  leads  by  St.  Nieolaui 
and  the  BHndlutaffel  (5043')  to  the  (ISJ4  hr.)  solitary  chalets  of  the  Go- 
sckenen-Alp  (6227').  To  the  W.  descends  the  beautiful  Dammafirn  glacier 
from  the  Rhone»ioek '.,  and  i  hr.  farther  up  the  valley  the  Odachenen^ 
Reuss  issues  from  the  KehUn-Oletscher,  which  is  imbedded  between  the 
Winterberg  and  Steinberg.  —  A  moderately  easy  path  (7  hrs.,  with  guide) 
leads  from  the  Goschenen-Alp  over  the  Alpiglen-LUche  (9111'),  between 
the  hocNbtra  and  Spiiiherg  (p.  138),  tq  Rtalp  (p.  138).  The  S.  peak  of  the 
Loefiberg  (OiCXX),  a  fine  point  of  view,  is  easily  ascended  from  the  summit 
of  the  pass. 

Immediately  below  the  Vordtre,  or  Hadtrli-Btucke  (3720'), 
the  sixth  bridge,  is  the  entrance  to  the  great  8t,  Qottkard  Tunnel 
(comp.  pp.  69,  83),  to  which  visitors  are  not  admitted.  Here, 
about  Y4  M.  beyond  Goschenen ,  begins  the  sombre  rocky  defile 
of  the  *SctidUenen  (2  M.  long),  bounded  by  lofty  and  almost  per- 
pendicular walls  of  granite ,  at  the  base  of  which  dashes  the 
impetuous  Reuss.  The  road  ascends  by  numerous  windings,  most 
of  which  may  be  cut  off  by  footpaths  or  the  old  bridle-path. 
Beyond  a  few  of  these  windings ,  the  disused  Lange  Brilcke  is 
passed  (no  saving  is  effected  by  crossing  it),  and  the  Sprengi- 
bruck  (4048'),  the  seventh  bridge,  crossed.  The  road  in  the 
SehoUenen  is  much  exposed  to  avalanches,  and  at  one  of  the 
most  dangerous  spots  is  protected  by  a  gallery,  60  yds.  in  length, 
at  the  farther  end  of  which  is  the  bull's  head  of  Uri. 


80     Route  22.  ANDERMATT.  fVom  Lueertu 

The  n>eTirf  Bridge  (4593'),  Teufdabrucke  (the  eighth),  in 
the  midst  of  a  scene  of  wild  desolation,  is  now  reached  (2^2  M. 
from  Goschenen).  The  Keuss  here  falls  in  a  picturesque  cascade 
into  an  abyss  100'  below,  while  its  spray  bedews  the  bridge 
above.  The  wind  (aptly  called  'Hutschelm',  or  'hat-rogue',  by  the 
natives)  sometimes  comes  down  the  gorge  in  violent  gusts,  and 
endangers  the  hats  of  unwary  travellers. 

The  new  bridge,  constructed  of  granite  in  1830,  has  a  single 
arch  of  26'  span.  The  old  bridge,  20'  below,  is  disused  and 
overgrown  with  moss. 

A  battle  between  the  Austrians  and  French  took  place  here  on  14th 
Aug.,  1799.  The  former  had  taken  up  a  strong  position  near  the  bridge, 
but  were  unable  to  withstand  the  impetuous  attack  of  the  French.  They 
therefore  blew  up  the  small  side-arch,  in  consequence  of  which  hundreds 
of  soldiers  were  precipitated  into  the  abyss ,  and  communication  was 
cut  off.  The  French  then  scaled  the  r.  bank  of  the  Beuss,  and  compelled 
the  Austrians  to  retire  in  the  night.  Their  success,  however,  was  of  short 
duration.  A  month  later  Suiearow  marched  over  the  St.  Ootthard  and 
pressed  hard  upon  the  French,  who  had  filled  the  Umer  Loch  with  masses 
of  rock.  The  Russians  removed  the  obstacles  and  re-opened  the  road,  but 
near  the  ruins  of  the  Teufelsbriicke  they  found  themselves  exposed  to  a 
murderous  fire  from  the  French.  In  spite  of  this,  however,  they  forced 
a  passage,  and  drove  their  enemy  back  as  far  as  the  Lake  of  Lucerne. 

Beyond  the  Devil's  Bridge  the  road  winds  upwards  past  a 
chapel  to  the  (5  min.)  Umer  Loeh  (4642'),  a  tunnel  70  yds.  long, 
cut  through  the  solid  rock  in  1707,  originally  only  broad  enough 
for  pedestrians  and  horses,  but  now  admitting  two  carriages  ab- 
reast. Prior  to  1707  a  hanging  chain  -  bridge ,  called  the  Stau- 
bende  Bruckej  conducted  the  traveller  round  the  Teufeltatdn, 
through  a  constant  shower  of  spray. 

The  Valley  of  Uri  or  Uneren,  which  the  road  enters  beyond 
the  gloomy  Umer  Loch,  presents  a  striking  contrast  to  the  wild 
region  Just  traversed.  This  peaceful  valley  (p.  139),  with  its  green 
pastures  watered  by  the  Reuss,  is  about  8  M.  in  length  and 
1/2 — 1  M.  in  breadth,  and  is  surrounded  by  lofty  and  barren 
mountains  partially  covered  with  snow.  Before  the  Reuss  had 
forced  a  way  for  itself  through  the  SchoUenen  (p.  79),  this  valley 
was  probably  a  lake.  Corn  grows  here  but  scantily,  and  trees 
are  scarce.  Winter  lasts  nearly  eight  months,  and  during  the 
short  summer  fires  are  often  necessary.  The  1400  inhabitants 
of  the  valley  gain  their  livelihood  by  feeding  cattle,  and  con- 
veying travellers  and  goods  across  the  St.  Gotthard. 

6  M.  Andermatt  (4737')  or  Urieren,  Ital.  Orsera  (;^BeUevuej 
a  large  hotel,  well  situated  outside  the  village,  R.  3,  L.  and  A. 
11/4,  B.  172»  D.  4  fr. ;  *8t.  Ootthard,  similar  charges,  post  and 
telegraph  office  opposite;  Drei  Konige,  R.  from  IV2  ^'-i  *H^tel 
Oberalp,  moderate;  Kronty  unpretending),  1  M.  from  the  Devil's 
Bridge,  is  the  principal  village  (744  inhab.)  of  the  valley.  Ad- 
joining the  church,  which  is  believed  to  date  from  the  time  of 
the  Lombards,  is  a  charnel-house  adorned  with  skulls  bearing  in- 


to  Como.  HOSPENTHAL.  22.  Route.     81 

scriptions  (comp.  p.  48).  The  Mariahilf  chapel ,  above  the  St. 
Gottbard  Hotel ,  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  valley :  to  the  W. 
rises  the  barren  grey  Bazberg,  in  the  background  the  Furca  with 
its  inn,  to  the  1.  the  Mutthorn ;  a  few  paces  beyond  the  chapel, 
the  Six-Madun ,  or  Badus  (see  belo^),  is  visible;  to  the  £.  in 
long  zigzags  ascends  the  road  over  the  Oberalp  (K.  76).  —  The 
fine  CoUection  of  St.  Gotihard  Minerals  of  the  late  chaplain 
Meyer  has  been  purchased  by  the  landlord  of  the  'Three  Kings',  and 
is  exhibited  in  a  small  house  opposite.  —  F.  G.  Nager-Donazians 
sells  minerals,  etc.  at  moderate  prices. 

From  Andermatt  by  the  Oberalp  to  Diasentis  in  the  valley  of 
the  Vorder-Uhein  (Grisons),  see  R.  76.  —  From  Andermatt  over 
the  Furca  to  the  Rhone  Glacier  in  the  Upper  Valais,  see  R.  31. 

The  Six-Hadun  or  Badus  (9616^),  a  vast  triangular  pyramid  of  rock 
forming  the  closing  barrier  of  the  Oberland  of  the  Orisons,  is  occasionally 
ascended  (in  41/2  hrs.)  from  Andermatt;  a  fatiguing  walk,  guide  necessary 
(ascent  from  Sedrun  easier  and  shorter,  p.  310).  The  traveller  may  descend 
to  the  Toma-See  (p.  310),  and  thence  to  the  valley  of  the  Vorder-Rhein. 
The  summit,  which  consists  of  blocks  of  gneiss ,  commands  a  view  of  in- 
numerable peaks  of  the  Alps  of  the  Grisons,  Bern,  and  the  Valais,  with 
their  snow-fields  and  glaciers ,  and  of  the  Yorder  -  Rheinthal  in  its  entire 
extent. 

On  the  way  from  Andermatt  to  Hospcnthal  the  Glacier  of 
St.  Anna  rises  conspicuously  above  the  brow  of  the  mountain  to 
the  I. 

Hospenthal  (4800')  (*Meyerhof,  a  large  house  outside  the 
village,  R.  from  2,  B.  l*/2?  ^-  3,  pension  from  6  fr. ;  •Lotc<, 
moderate),  1^/2  M.  from  Andermatt,  derives  its  name  from  a 
hospice  which  formerly  stood  here.  The  tower  on  the  hill  is 
said  to  be  the  remnant  of  a  castle  built  by  the  Lombards.  The 
magazine  (Sust)  at  the  end  of  the  village  is  now  disused.  The 
Furca  road  here  diverges  to  the  r.  (R.  31). 

The  St.  Gotthard  road  now  ascends  in  numerous  windings 
through  a  desolate  valley,  on  the  1.  bank  of  that  branch  of  the 
Reuss  which  flows  from  the  Lake  of  Lucendro  and  below  Hospen- 
thal unites  with  the  branch  from  the  Furca  (p.  139).  A  footpath 
diverging  to  the  1.  by  the  second  house  beyond  the  bridge  over  the 
Reuss  cuts  off  the  first  windings  of  the  road.  Pleasant  retrospects 
of  the  Ursern-Thal  and  the  jagged  peaks  of  the  Spitzberg  (p.  139), 
as  far  as  the  Galenstock  to  the  W.  To  the  1.  of  the  bleak  (21/2  M!) 
Gcmuboden  opens  the  precipitous  Guspis-Thal,  at  the  head  of 
which  are  the  small  Gutpis- Glacier  and  the  Pizzo  Centrale  (see 
below^.  At  a  great  bend  in  the  road,  1/2  M.  farther,  stands  the 
first  Cantoniera  (5876');  to  the  r.  rise  the  slopes  of  the  Winter- 
horn,  or  Piz  Orsino  (8747').  The  road  now  enters  the  canton  of 
Ticino  and  crosses  the  Reuss  for  the  last  time  near  its  source  in  the 
Lake  of  Lueendro  (not  visible),  by  the  (21/2  M.)  RodontjBridge 
(6621'),  1/4  M.  above  the  second  Cantoniera. 

A  visit  to  the  *Lake  of  Lucendro  (6834')  forms  an  easy  digression  of 
^2  hr.  only.     The  path  diverges  below  the  Rodont  Bridge  (1.  bank),  leads 

BjBOEKKK,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  6 


82     RouU  22.  ST.  GOTTHARD.  From  Lucerne 

over  masses  of  rock  to  the  (10  min.)  beautiful  green  lake,  environed  with 
snow-peaks  and  glaciers,  and  then  skirts  its  N.  bank.  To  the  S.  rises 
the  imposing  Piz  Lucendro  (9708'),  to  the  W.  the  Ywerherhffmer  (9266'), 
the  Piz  delV  Uomo  (8819'),  etc  —  'The  path  crosses  the  Reuss  at  its  efflux 
from  the  lake,  and  finally  rejoins  the  St.  Gotthard  road  near  the  summit 
of  the  pass. 

On  the  (1  M.)  Pass  of  St.  Gotthard  (6936' j  the  road  passes 
between  several  small  lakes. 

The  remark  is  sometimes  made,  that  the  St.  Gotthard,  although 
frequently  mentioned,  is  never  seen.  This  is  to  a  certain  extent 
true,  Inasmuch  as  the  name  is  applied,  not  to  a  single  peak,  but 
to  an  extensive  mountain-group.  The  peaks  to  the  W.  are  the 
Fihbia  (8996'),  and  the  Pizzo  di  Vinei,  or  Lucendro  (9708');  to 
the  N.  the  Winterhomy  or  Piz  Orsino  (8747');  to  the  E.,  imme- 
diately above  the  summit  of  the  pass,  the  Sasso  di  San  Oot- 
tardo  (8235');  beyond  it  the  Monte  Prosa  (8983')  and  the  Pizzo 
CentraUy  or  Tritihom  (9852'),  and  farther  S.  the  Sehipsius 
(7907'). 

10  M.  Albergo  del  S.  Gottardo  (6867'),  a  post-station,  V4  ^• 
to  the  S.  of  the  culminating  point,  is  a  large,  gloomy  Italian 
inn.  Opposite  to  it  is  the  *H6tel  du  Mont  Prosa  (R.  2,  B.  i^/4, 
D.  3,  L.  and  A.  1^4  fr.)»  a  POst  and  telegraph  office.  Adjoining 
it  is  the  Hospice^  erected  by  the  canton  of  Ticino,  containing  15 
beds  for  poor  travellers ,  who  are  received  gratuitously  (upwards 
of  10,000  are .  entertained  'annually).  Newfoundland  dogs  of  a 
superior  race  may  be  purchased  here  at  prices  varying  from  75  to 
400  fr. ;  also  St.  Gotthard  minerals  at  fixed  prices.  A  short  dis- 
tance to  the  S.  of  the  hotel,    on  the  old  St.  Gotthard  road,   is 

the  Mortuary  Chapel^  which  is  now  rarely  used. 

The  ascent  of  the  *PizBO  Centrale,  or  Tritthom  (9852'),  an  admirable 
point  of  view,  has  been  more  frequently  undertaken  of  late,  the  path 
having  been  improved  by  the  landlord  of  the  Mt.  Prosa  Hotel  (3ifs  hrs., 
no  difficulty;  guide  advisable,  7  fr.  and  a  gratuity  of  1  fr.).  Beyond  the 
hospice  cross  the  brook  to  the  1.  and  ascend  the  slope  of  the  Sasso  San 
Gottardo  through  a  dreary  expanse  of  detritus  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Sella  valley,  through  which  the  route  leads.  The  Prosa  (see  below)  soon 
becomes  visible  to  the  1.,  above;  farther  on,  the  JSelki  Lake  is  seen  far 
below.  A  snow-field  is  finally  crossed  to  the  base  of  the  highest  peak,  - 
which  consists  of  crumbling  hornblende.  The  space  on  the  summit  is 
very  limited.  The  ^*view  is  one  of  striking  magnificence,  embracing 
almost  all  the  highest  mountains  in  Switzerland  (excellent  panorama  by 
Helm).  —  The  Honte  Proaa  (8983')  may  also  be  ascended  from  the  hotel 
without  difficulty  in  2i|2  hrs.  (path  diverging  from  that  to  the  Pizxo  Cen- 
trale  to  the  1.  before  the  Sella  lake  is  reached),  but  the  view  is  inferior 
to  that  from  the  Centrale. 

The  Fibbia  (8996'),  a  gigantic  rock  which  commands  the  St.  Gotthard 
road  on  the  W.  side  and  rises  precipitously  above  the  Yal  Tremola,  may 
also  be  easily  ascended  from  the  hotel  in  2>{2  hrs.  (guide  desirable).  The 
summit  aftbrds  an  excellent  survey  of  the  St.  Gotthard  group,  the  valley 
of  the  Ticino,  &c.  —  The  ascent  of  the  W.  peaks  of  the  St.  Gotthard,  the 
Pizzo  Lucendro  (9708'),  the  Leckihorn  (lO,^^),  and  the  Pizzo  Roiondo 
(10,489'),  the  highest,  is  more  difficult,  and  should  be  attempted  by  none 
but  practised  climbers. 

The  ascent  of  the  8orescia»  or  Scara  Or  ell  (7349'),  forms  a  pleasant 
short  excursion  (1  hr.).     Descend   the   road   towards  the   S.  as   far  as  the 


to  Como.  AIROLO.  22.  BouU.     83 

Ticino  bridge,  and  beyond  it  ascend  by  a  narrow  path  to  the  1.  Fine  view, 
especially  of  the  Alps  of  Ticino,  the  Cristallina,  Campo  Tencca,  Basodino, 
etc.  Descent  to  the  Sella  valley  not  recommended,  as  there  is  no  bridge 
over  the  Ticino,  which  is  here  of  considerable  breadth. 

Lake  of  Lucendro,  see  above. 

From  the  Hospice  to  Airolo  is  a  walk  of  1^2  ^f*  (^Y  short 
cuts);  in  the  reverse  direction  2^2  b'^-?  while  the  diligence 
takes  3  hrs.  In  winter  and  spring  the  snow  is  often  piled  up 
on  the  road-side  in  heaps  30 — 40'  high,  and  sometimes  remains 
unmelted  throughout  the  summer  (comp.  p.  69).  Snow-storms 
and  avalanches  are  most  prevalent  on  the  S.  side. 

About  V2  ^-  ^  ^^6  S.E.,  below  the  hospice,  the  road  crosses 
the  Ticino,  which  flows  from  the  Sella  Lake  (see  above),  situ- 
ated to  the  £.  A  little  farther,  near  a  large  mass  of  rock  lying 
by  the  road,  an  inscription  on  the  rock  near  the  old  bricUe-path 
commemorates  the  events  of  1799  (p.  80).  The  words  ^Suwarow 
Victor^  only  are  now  legible. 

Near  the  first  house  of  refuge ,  the  CantorUera  8.  Antonio 
(6375'),  the  road  enters  the  Val  Tremola,  a  dismal  valley  I1/2  M. 
long,  into  which  avalanches  are  frequently  precipitated,  and  de- 
scends in  numerous  windings,  which  are  avoided  by  the  old 
bridle-path  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  following  the  telegraph- 
wires,  to  the  second  refuge,  the  Cantoniera  8.  Oiuseppe  (6010'). 
At  the  third  refuge,  the  Cantoniera  di  Val  Tremola  (5564'),  the 
Val  Tremola  terminates,  and  the  Val  Leoentina  (p.  84)  begins, 
and  a  fine  *view  of  the  latter  as  far  as  Quinto  is  obtained.  To 
the  r.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Bedretto  (p.  140),  from  which  the 
W.  branch  of  the  Ticino  descends  to  the  St.  Gotthard  branch. 

8  M.  Airolo  (3868')  (*Posta,  R.  2,  B.  IV2  fr.),  the  first  village 
in  which  Italian  is  spoken,  on  the  Ticino,  affords  convenient  head- 
quarters for  excursions  on  the  S.  slopes  of  the  St.  Gotthard. 

Bridle-path  through  the  Val  Bedretto  over  the  Nufenen-Pasa  to  Ober- 
gestelen  in  the  Valais  in  8  hrs.,  see  p.  140;  or  from  AW  Acqtia  over  the 
a.  Giacomo-Pass  (7572')  and  through  the  Voile  Toggia  to  the  Falls  of  the 
Tosa  in  the  Val  Formazza,  in  7  hrs.,  see  p.  144.  Or,  passing  the  Ritom-See 
(6000'),  proceed  through  the  Piora- Valley  over  the  Uomo-Pass  (7257'), 
and  through  the  Val  Termine  to  S.  Maria  and  Dissentis  in  10  hrs.  (R.  77). 
—  Through  the  Val  Canaria  over  the  Nera-Pass  and  the  Unieralp  to  Ander- 
matt  (7  hrs.),  fatiguing,  and  on  the  S.  side  not  without  danger. 

Below  Airolo  the  geologically  interesting  Vol  Canaria  opens.  The 
road  enters  the  8tretto  (defile)  di  Stalvedro,  which  in  1799  was  de- 
fended by  600  French  grenadiers  against  3000  Russians  for  12  hrs. 
(comp.  p.  80).  The  French  afterwards  retired  by  the  NufSnen  Pass 
into  the  Valais.  The  ruins  of  a  marble  tower  of  Lombard  origin 
(Caaa  dei  Pagani)  command  the  mouth  of  this  picturesque  ravine 
on  the  r.  On  the  1.  bank  of  the  Ticino  four  parallel  ridges  of 
rock  descend  to  the  river,  through  which  four  openings  have  been 
cut  for  the  road.  About  1  M.  beyond  the  defile,  on  the  r.  bank, 
is  the  beautiful  cascade   of  the  Calcaccia. 

The  road,  now  nearly  level,  next  passes  (3  M.)  Piolta,  (IV4  M.) 

6* 


84     Route  22,  FAIDO.  From  Lucerne 

Ambri  (to  the  r.  the  Piz  Massari,  9062'),  opposite  Quinto,  then 
(IV2  M.)  Fiesso  and  the  hamlet  of  (2  M.)  Basio  Grande  (3110'). 
Immediately  beyond  the  inn  (very  poor)  the  mouth  of  a  second 
rocky  *ravine  is  reached.  The  Ticino  has  here  forced  a  passage 
for  itself  through  the  Monte  Piottino^  or  Platifer,  and  precipitates 
itself  in  a  succession  of  cataracts  through  the  gloomy  gorge. 
The  road  descends  the  defile  close  to  these  ^waterfalls,  and 
crosses  the  river  several  times.  To  the  r. ,  near  Faido,  the 
Pitimogna  precipitates  itself  by  a  picturesque  fall  into  the  Ticnio. 

IOV2  M.  Faido  (23660,  <^er.  Pfaid  (*Angelo,  R.  2V2,  L.  V2, 
B.  l*/2»  A.  V2  f^- »  Prince  of  Wales;  H6tel  Vella),  the  capital 
of  the  Leventina,  is  a  village  of  thoroughly  Italian  character. 

The  Leventina  {Vallis  Lepontina)^  or  Valley  of  the  Ticino,  formerly 
belonged  to  the  canton  of  Uri,  and  was  governed  in  the  most  despotic 
manner  by  bailiffs,  who  purchased  their  situations  from  the  Lands- 
gemeindc,  as  was  the  custom  in  almost  all  the  democratic  cantons,  as  well 
as.  in  the  republics  of  antiquity.  A  revolt  broke  out  in  1755,  but  was  sup- 
pressed with  the  aid  of  the  Swiss  troops^  the  leaders  were  executed,  and 
their  heads  suspended  from  the  chestnut  trees.  The  French  effected  a 
cliange  in  the  mode  of  government  in  1798.  The  canton  of  Uri  endeav- 
oured to  re-establish  the  original  constitution  in  1814,  but  the  Congress 
of  Vienna  decided  that  the  Leventina  and  the  other  seven  Italian  baili- 
wicks belonging  to  the  twelve  Swiss  cantons  should  together  constitute  the 
new  canton  of  Tessin,  or  Ticino. 

The  road  passes  through  beautiful  scenery ;  the  numerous 
campauili  in  the  Italian  style,  crowning  the  summits  of  the  hills, 
have  a  very  picturesque  effect.  To  the  r.  and  1.  several  cas- 
cades precipitate  themselves  over  the  cliffs,  that  of  the  *Cribiasca, 
resembling  a  veil,  being  the  finest.  Huge  masses  of  rock  lie 
scattered  about,  between  which  handsome  chestnut  trees  have 
taken  root.  Vines  and  mulberry  trees  begin  to  appear.  At  the 
point  where  the  road  descends  in  windings  to  the  bottom  of  the 
valley,  the  Ticino  forms  another  beautiful  fall,  spanned  by  a 
bridge  over  which  the  road  passes. 

Oiomioo  (1325'),  Ger.  Imis  (Cervo;  Corona),  6  M.  from  Faido, 
the  capital  of  the  district,  is  noteworthy  on  account  of  its  antiqui- 
ties and  picturesque  situation.  The  former  consist  of  a  lofty  old 
tower,  remains  of  a  Gallic  or  Lombard  fortification  (near  the 
church  of  8.  Maria  di  CasteUo\  and  the  church  of  8.  Niccolb  da 
Miroy  in  the  earliest  Romanesque  style,  supposed  to  occupy  the 
site  of  a  heathen  temple.  Beyond  Giornico  to  the  r.  is  the 
picturesque  waterfall  of  the  Cramosina. 

9V2  M.  Bodio  (1086')  (Posta;  Aquila).  Beyond  Polleggio 
(978')  the  Brenno  descends  from  the  Val  Blegrw  to  the  Ticino. 
The  valley  of  the  Ticino  now  expands  and  takes  the  name  of  the 
Riviera,  or  River-valley,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Moesa  (see 
below).  Luxuriant  vines,  chestnuts,  walnuts,  mulberries,  and 
fig-trees  now  remind  the  traveller  of  his  proximity  to  'the  garden 
of  the  Earth ,  fair  Italy'.  The  vines  extend  their  dense  foliage 
over   wooden  trellis-work  supported  by   stone  pillars,   6' — 10'  in 


to  Como.  BELLINZONA.  22.  Route.     85 

height.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  valley  subsist  almost 
entirely  npon  the  produce  of  the  chestnut-trees.  Frequent  in- 
undations render  the  district  unhealthy.  The  next  village,  3  M. 
from  Bodio,  is  Biaiea  (l/nione,  tolerable)  with  an  old  Romanesque 
church  on  an  eminence  (1112').  A  series  of  chapels  leads  to  the 
Petronella-Chapel,  a  good  point  of  view.  The  cellars  in  the 
neighbouring  rocks  are  used  by  the  wine-merchants  of  Bellinzona. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  pass  through  Biasca,  as  a  branch  of  the  road, 
in  a  straight  direction,  passes  it  and  rejoins  the  high-road  beyond. 
Diligence  from  Biasca  to  Olivone,  and  the  road  over  the  Lukmanier 
to  Dissentis,  see  R.  77. 

6^/4  M.  Oiogna  (964^  lies  at  the  foot  of  an  abrupt  rocky  hill 
with  rounded  summit.  The  next  villages  are  Creaeiano  (886'), 
with  picturesque  waterfalls;  Claro  (1027'),  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain  (8760')  of  that  name,  which  is  one  of  the  most  bea^u- 
tiful  and  fertile  in  Switzerland,  with  the  convent  of  8.  Maria 
(2074')  halfway  up.  The  Moeaa,  which  descends  from  the  Ber- 
nardino (p.  368),  is  then  crossed  at  CastionCj  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Vol  MisoceOy  to  Arbedo  (813'),  the  scene  of  a  sanguinary  and 
unequal  struggle  on  30th  June,  1422,  when  3000  Confederates 
were  defeated  by  24,000  Milanese. 

From  a  distance,  the  appearance  of  Bellinzona  with  its  lofty 
walls  and  turrets,  which  formerly  extended  into  the  valley,  its 
three  castles,  and  the  extensive  barracks  at  the  N.  gate,  is  very 
striking. 

972  M.  Bellinsona  (777'),  Ger.  BelUnz  (*Posta;  Hdtel  de  la 
VilUj  outside  the  S.  gate,  R.  2^/2,  L.  i/2»  ^-  IV2  f'-  J  *AngelOy  near 
the  S.  gate,  in  the  town,  Italian  style),  on  the  Ticino^  one  of 
the  three  capitals  of  the  canton  of  Ticino,  with  2361  inhab., 
presents  all  the  characteristics  of  an  Italian  town.  It  was  strongly 
fortified  in  the  middle  ages,  and  regarded  as  the  key  to  the 
route  from  Lombardy  to  Germany.  The  fortifications  have  been 
partly  restored  of  late.  It  was  the  scene  of  frequent  conflicts 
between  the  Swiss  and  the  Milanese,  but  from  the  beginning  of 
the  16th  to  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  the  former  remained  in 
undisturbed  possession.  The  Abbey-Church  adjoining  the  post- 
office  is  a  fine  building  in  the  Italian  style  of  the  16th  cent. 

The  three  picturesque  Castles  were  the  residences  of  the  three  Swiss 
Bailiffs  (comp.  p.  84),  in  whom  the  judicial  and  executive  authority  was 
vested.  Each  castle  possessed  a  small  garrison  and  a  few  cannons.  The 
largest,  the  CasteUo  Grande^  on  an  isolated  eminence  to  the  W.,  belonged 
to  Uri^  it  is  now  used  as  a  prison  and  arsenal;  visitors  readily  admitted 
(gratuity  to  guide).  Of  the  other  twr),  towards  the  E.,  the  lower,  the 
CasteUo  di  Mezzo^  belonged  to  Schwyz  *,  the  upper,  the  Casiello  Corbario  or 
CorM  (1502'),  now  in  ruins,  to  Unterwalden.  The  view  from  the  CasteUo 
Grande  is  striking  and  beautiful  y  that  from  the  loftily-situated  pilgrimage- 
chapel  of  S.  Maria  delta  Salute  not  less  so. 

A  bridge  of  14  arches,  200  yds.  long,  here  crosses  the 
Ticino,  which  in  summer   is  so  low  that  most  of  the  arches  are 


86     Route  23.  STANS. 

dry.     The  banks  are  protected  from  inundations  by  a  strong  em- 
bankment, 766  yds.  long. 

From  Bellinzona  to  Como  and  Camerlata,  see  R.  91;  to 
Magadino,  see  R.  93;  to  Milan,  see  R.  98. 

23.   From  Lucerne  to  Altorf  by  Stans  and 
Engelberg.  Snrdnen. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  S8^  76. 

Steamboat  four  times  daily  between  Lucerne  and  Stansstad  in  ^\i  hr., 
see  p.  89;  Omnibus  (i|2  fr.)  from  Stansstad  to  Stans  eight  times  daily  in 
20  min.,  *|2  fr. ;  Diligence  from  Beckenried  (p.  71)  to  Stans  daily  in  1  hr., 
fare  95  c.  From  Stans  to  Altorf  12 — 13  hrs. ;  carriage-road  as  far  as  Engel- 
berg, thence  by  a  footpath.  The  traveller  should  arrange  to  sleep  at 
Engelberg,  ISJjz  M.  from  Stans.  A  guide  (10  fr.)  is  required  for  the 
passage  of  the  Surenen  to  Altorf,  a  walk  of  7 — 8  hrs.  (necessary  in  the 
reverse  direction  from  Altorf  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  only,  6  fr.). 
•    From  Lucerne  to  Stansstad  see  p.  89. 

Stansstad  (p.  89)  is  2^2  M.  from  Stans.  One-horse  carriage 
from  Stansstad  to  Engelberg  12,  two-horse  20  fr.  Walkers  should 
dismiss  their  vehicle  at  Grafenort  (9  M.  distant,  a  drive  of  1^/4 
hr.,  one-horse  carr.  6  fr.),  beyond  which  the  road  is  so  steep  that 
passengers  usually  alight  and  proceed  on  foot  (one-horse  carr. 
from  Beckenried  to  Engelberg  15  fr.  and  2  fr.  gratuity). 

Stans,  or  Stanz  (* Krone,  R.  1,  B.  1  fr.;  '^Engel;  Pension 
Mettenweg^,  the  capital  of  NiduraMen,  the  E.  half  of  the  canton 
of  Unterwalden ,  with  2070  (Rom.  Cath.)  inhab.,  lies  in  a  rich 
and  fruitful  valley,  on  which  from  11th  Nov.  to  2nd  Febr.  the 
sun  shines  for  one  hour  only  in  the  morning,  between  the  Hohe- 
Briesen  (7895')  and  the  Stanserhom  (see  below).  The  choir  of 
the  handsome  Parish  Church  contains  two  coloured  statues,  *B.  Ni- 
colaus  de  rupe  and  *B.  Conrad  Schaiber;  i.  e.,  St.  Nicolaus  von 
der  Fliie  (p.  91)  and  his  grandson.  Adjoining  the  church  is  the 
*  Monument  of  Arnold  von  Winkelried  (p.  15),  a  fine  group  in 
marble  by  Schloth,  but  badly  placed.  A  tablet  by  the  Burial 
Chapel  in  the  churchyard  on  the  N.  side  of  the  church  bears  an 
inscription  in  memory  of  a  number  of  persons  who  were  massacred 
here  in  1798  by  the  French,  who  were  exasperated  by  the  obstinate 
resistance  of  the  inhabitants  of  Unterwalden. 

The  Toun  Hall  contains  portraits  of  all  the  bailiffs  from  the 
year  1521;  below  them  is  a  collection  of  Unterwalden  flags;  also 
two  French  banners  of  1798;  a  picture  by  the  blind  artist  Wiirsch, 
who  perished  in  1798;  another  by  Volmar,  representing  Brother 
Klaus  taking  leave  of  his  family.  In  the  Arsenal  is  preserved 
the  coat  of  mail  of  Arnold  von  Winkelried,  to  whose  memory 
a  Chapel  on  the  road  to  Sarnen  (I1/2  M.  to  the  W.,  p.  90)  is 
dedicated.  Beautiful  view  from  the  Knieri,  above  the  Capuchin 
Monastery. 

The  Stanter  Horn  (6232^)  is  ascended  from  Stans,  or  from  the  Rozloch 
(p.  90),  in  3—4  hris.     The  path  from  Stans  is  the  better^  tji?  two  roptea 


ENGELBERG.  23.  RouU.     87 

unite    on    the    Blumalp.      View    remarkably   fine.    —    The  aacent  of    th'« 
Baoehser  Horn  (5938')  (4  hrs.)  is  less  interesting. 

The  road  to  Engelberg  (IS^/j  M.  from  Staiis)  first  traTcrses 
rich  meadows.  To  the  I.  the  Wallenaibcke  (8514');  in  the 
background  rises  the  Titlis  (see  below),  with  its  glaciers  and  fields 
of  snow.  Between  Thalwyl  and  Wolfenschiessen  (4  M.)  the  road 
crosses  the  Engelberger  Aa;  high  up  on  the  1.  lie  the  chalets  of 
Rielcenhaeh. 

The  next  village  is  (21/2  M.)  Qrafenort  (1886'),  which  con- 
sists of  a  chapel,  an  inn,  and  a  farm  belonging  to  the  Abbey 
of  Engelberg  (7  M.  from  Engelberg).  About  V2  M.  farther  the 
road  ascends,  and  traverses  a  forest  for  4  M.,  beyond  which 
the  impetuous  Aa  is  seen  in  two  branches  below.  The  ice-clad 
Titlis  stands  forth  majestically;  then  to  the  1.  the  Grosge  and 
KUine  Spanmrter  (10,515'),  whose  rocky  pinnacles  rise  from  amidst 
glaciers  and  snow-fields.  The  green  Alpine  valley  of  Engelberg, 
6  M.  in  length  and  1  M.  in  width,  bounded  on  three  sides  by 
lofty,  snow-capped  mountains,  is  now  suddenly  disclosed  to  view. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  valley,  above  the  buildings  of 

Engelberg  (3313')  {^Zum  Titlis,  pens.  5—8  fr. ;  *Engtl, 
5  fr.  and  upwards ;  ^Sonnenberg^  similar  charges;  *  Pension  MiiUer, 
moderate;  *  Engelberg ;  private  rooms  at  Dr.  Cattanta  and  else- 
where; usual  charges,  R.  l*/2»  B-  I1  D.  2  fr.,  whey  also  procurable. 
Joseph  Custer,  Eugene  Hess,  and  Jos.  Amrein,  good  guides),  rises 
the  stately  Benedictine  Abbey  of  that  name,  founded  in  the  12th 
cent.,  termed  by  Pope  Calixtus  XI.  Mons  Angelorum,  re-erected 

after  a  conflagration  in  1729. 

The  ^Church  contains  modem  pictures  hy  DeMhwanden,  Kaiser,  and 
Wiirsch  (p.  86).  High  altar-piece  an  Assumption  by  Spiegler  ^  1734.  In 
the  chapter-house  two  transparent  pictures  by  Kaiser,  the  Conception  and 
the  Nativity.  The  Library,  although  robhed  of  its  greatest  treasures 
by  the  French  in  1798,  still  boasts  of  several  valuable  MSS.  and  specimens 
of  early  printing  (e.g.,  a  Mamotrectus  of  1470).  A  good  relief  of  the  Engel- 
berger valley  is  also  shown.  The  hours  of  admission  can  be  ascertained 
at  the  hotels. 

The  school  connected  with  the  Abbey  is  in  high  repute. 
Extensive  farm-buildings,  with  dwellings  for  the  labourers,  and 
a  large  •cellar  where  upwards  of  1000  cheeses  are  frequently 
stored.  The  revenues  of  the  abbey,  to  which  the  entire  district 
was  formerly  subject,  were  considerably  impaired  by  the  French 
in  1798. 

Engelberg  is  the  residence  of  the  talented  wood-carver  Nico- 
demus  Custer.  It  is  protected  from  the  N.E.,  and  is  well-suited 
for  a  stay  of  some  duration.  Numerous  short  excursions  in  the 
neighbourhood ;  of  the  longer,  the  following  deserve  mention :  — 

Ascent  of  the  Rigidalstock  (8514^,  4i('2  hrs.,  the  last  hour  only  laborious, 
fine  panorama.  The  Widder/eld  (7732')  4  hrs.,  less  fatiguing.  The  TUtscfi- 
bach/all  and  Herrenreutiy  see  below. 

The  «Tit]is  (10,627'),  rising  to  the  S.E.,  may  be  ascended  (with  guide, 
10  fr.  and  a  gratuitv)  in  7—8  hrs.  from  Engelberg  (or  from  the  Engstlen-Alp 
in  6i|2  hrs.,  see  p.  130).    It  is  advisable  to  proceed  on  the  evening  before  the 


88     Route  23.  SURENEN  PASS. 

ascent  to  the  i2^2  hrs.)  Triibsee-Alp  (riding  feasible  thus  far),  where  a  bed 
of  hay  may  be  obtained  (2  fr. !),  and  to  start  next  morning  at  2  a.m., 
in  order  that  the  snow  may  be  traversed  before  the  heat  of  the  day.  Those 
who  ascend  from  Engelberg  direct  frequently  start  at  midnight  with  lanterns. 
On  the  Standi  above  the  Trtibsee-Alp,  the  paths  from  Engelberg  and  the 
Engstlen-Alp  unite.  The  path  then  ascei^ds  a  steep  slaty  acclivity  in  zig- 
zags, and  leads  over  rugged  limestone  rocks  to  the  glacier  (Rothegg)^  the 
first  part  of  which  is  covered  with  snow,  and  ascends  gradually.  At  a 
slight  depression ,  the  route  passes  between  long  fissures ,  and  then 
ascends  more  rapidly,  steps  being  hewn  if  the  'Fim""  is  hard  enough. 
Farther  up,  a  broad  gently-sloping  field  of  snow  is  traversed.  The  large 
crevasse  which  it  crosses  presents  no  difficulty ;  slate-rocks  and  snow  are 
next  encountered,  and  after  an  ascent  of  2  hrs.  more,  over  ice  and  snow, 
the  summit  is  attained.  The  highest  rounded  point  (room  for  20  persons) 
is  called  the  Nollen.  The  view,  which  is  highly  picturesque  and  im- 
posing ,  embraces  the  entire  Alpine  chain  from  Savoy  to  the  Tyrol ,  N. 
Switzerland,  and  S.  Germany.  The  ascent  of  the  Titlis,  although  requir- 
ing considerable  perseverance,  is  perhaps  the  least  difilcult  of  all  glacier 
excursions. 

Over  the  Joch  Pass  to  Meiringen,  see  E.  28  \  over  the  Storregg  or  Jochli 
to  the  MelchtMly  see  p.  91. 

On  the  path  from  Engelberg  to  Altorf  is  the  picturesque 
waterfall  of  the  Tdtschbach  (40  min.),  which  flows  from  the  Hahn en- 
berg  or  Engelberg ;  25  min.  farther  the  chalet  Herrenreuti  (breakfast 
obtainable),  belonging  to  the  Abbey  of  Engelberg.  Views  are 
obtained  here  of  the  glaciers  of  the  Oraasen  (9662')  and  Faul- 
blatten.  Beautiful  cascade  of  the  Stierenbach,  1  hr.  farther.  Near 
some  chalets,  4  hrs.  from  Engelberg  and  1^4  hr.  from  the  Sur- 
Snen  Pass ,  snow  often  lies  early  in  summer  ,  but  disappears  as 
the  season  advances ;  beyond  the  pass  it  remains  the  whole  year, 
and  must  be  traversed  for  a  considerable  distance.  The  Sorenen 
Pass,  or  Surmen  Eck  (7562'),  separates  the  Blackenstock  (9587') 
and  Vri-Rothstock  (9619')  on  the  1.,  from  the  Schlossberg 
(10,279')  on  the  r. 

The  Titlis  increases  in  grandeur  as  the  traveller  ascends,  and 
a  long  range  of  summits  and  glaciers  extends  as  far  as  the 
Sur^nen.  On  the  other  side  the  prospect  embraces  the  summits 
of  the  two  mountain-ranges  enclosing  the  Schachenthal,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Reuss,  the  Windgelle  being  one  of  the  most 
conspicuous.  In  the  extreme  distance  the  horizon  is  bounded 
by  the  snowy  crest  of  the  Glarnisch.  On  the  E.  side  of  the 
Surenen  the  snow-fleld  is  of  greater  extent,  and  the  path  more 
precipitous.  It  leads  over  loose  stones  to  the  WcMnaeht-Alpy 
where  it  divides :  to  the  r.  over  the  bridge  is  the  route  to  Erst- 
feld  (p.  77),  on  the  way  to  which  the  beautiful  fall  of  the  Wald- 
nachtbach  or  Langebach  is  visible;  the  path  to  the  1.  leads  to 
Atiinghausen  and  Altorf  (p.  76). 


89 

24.  From  Lucerne  over  the  Bninig  to  Brienz 

(and  Meiringen). 

Cornp.  Maps^  pp.  68y  100. 

36^14  M.  Steamboat  from  Lucerne  to  Alpnach-Oettad  4  times  daily  in 
li|4  hr. ;  Diligence  from  Alpnach-Gestad  to  Brienz  twice  daily  in  6,  and 
also  to  Meiringen  in  6  hrs.  (passengers  for  Ueiringen  change  carriages  at 
Lungem).  From  Brienz  travellers  may  at  once  proceed  (steamboat  corre- 
sponds with  diligence)  to  Interlaken ,  and  thence  to  Darligen  and  TAvit, 
so  that  the  journey  from  Zurich  to  Interlaken,  or  that  from  Lucerne  to 
Bern  may  be  accomplished  in  one  day.  Tickets  to  Interlaken  are  obtained 
at  the  post-office  (branch-office  next  door  to  the  Engl.  Hof)  at  Lucerne  (in 
which  case  the  coup^  may  be  secured),  or  on  board  the  steamboats :  from 
Lucerne  to  Brienz  10  fr.  50  c. ,  coup^  12  fr.  ^  to  Interlaken  12  fr.  60  c, 
coup^  14  ft.',  from  Alpnach-Gestad  to  Brienz  9  fr.  10  c,  coup^  10  fr.  00  c.  \ 
40  lbs-  luggage  free.  —  Seats  are  assigned  to  the  diligence-passengers  in 
the  order  in  which  their  tickets  have  been  issued.  Late  comers,  who  have 
failed  to  secure  the  coup^,  will  therefore  be  more  likely  to  obtain  a  seat 
in  one  of  the  open  supplementary  carriages  if  they  delay  taking  their 
tickets  until  shortly  before  the  time  of  starting.  Those  who  are  first  on 
the  conductor's  list  are  invariably  consigned  to  the  *  intdrieur,'*  from  which 
little  or  no  view  is  obtained. 

Carriages.  Two-horse  from  Lucerne  to  Brienz  or  Meiringen  45 — 50, 
to  Interlaken  60  fr.  From  Stansttad  to  Sachseln  one-horse  8,  two-horse 
15  fr.  \  to  Lungem  15  or  25  fr.  From  Alpnach-Oettad  to  Lungem  one-horse 
12,  two-horse  20  fr. ;  to  Brienz  one-horse  18 — 20,  two-horse  80 — 32  fr., 
always  to  be  had^  the  latter  for  4—5  persons,  pleasanter  and  not  dearer 
than  the  diligence. 

From  Alpnaeh-Oes  tad  to  Ft <zn a u  (for  the  Rigi)  direct  tickets 
are  issued,  which  are  1  fr.  less  than  if  the  traveller  books  to  Lucerne  and 
thence  to  Vitznau. 

The  Road  from  Lucerne  to  Alpnaeh-Qettad  leads  first  along 
the  impetuous  Krientbachy  then  by  Horw  (16730  with  its  picturesquely 
situated  church,  to  Winkel  (^Stem,  unpretending),  a  village  on  a  bay  of 
the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  described  below,  and  along  its  bank  to  Hergitwyl  (see 
below).  The  road  now  skirts  the  base  of  the  Lopper  (see  below)  close  by 
the  lake,  and  at  the  AeherbrHcie  (see  below)  reaches  the  Lake  of  Alpnach, 
on  the  17. W.  bank  of  which  it  leads  to  Alpnach-Oettad  (see  beluw). 

Beyond  the  central  point  of  the  lake  (see  p.  70),  the  steamer 
passes  the  pretty  country-seat  of  Tribschen,  the  chateau  of  Stutz 
(now  a  pension)  on  an  eminence,  and  the  8t,  NiklauscapeUe  on 
a  promontory,  and  enters  the  bay  of  Stansstad.  At  the  foot  of 
the  steep  Biirgenstock ,  to  the  1. ,  lies  the  little  village  of  Kehr- 
siteriy  high  above  which  stands  a  new  Gurhaus  (see  below).  To 
the  r.  the  promontory  of  Spissenegg  extends  far  into  the  lake, 
forming  a  bay  on  the  W.  side  which  extends  to  the  N.  to 
Winkel.  The  steamer  steers  to  the  S.W.  to  Hergiiwyl  (*Rdasli, 
unpretending,  R.  1,  B.  1,  D.  2  fr.  j  ascent  of  Pilatus,  see  p.  55), 
and  then  to  the  £.  to  StanMtad  (1444^)  rHdiel  Winkelried;  Frti- 
enhof;  RossU;  SchLussel).  Stad,  or  Gestade,  signifies  a  landing- 
place  or  harbour;  Stansstad  is  therefore  the  'harbour  of  Stans'. 
The  square  pinnacled  tower  termed  the  Schnits-Thurm  was  erected 
by  the  Swiss  in  1308  for  defence  against  the  Austrians,  from 
whose  yoke  they  had  emancipated  themselves. 

The  Biirgenatock  (3720')  may  be  ascended  from  Stans,  Buochs,  and 
Kehrsiten,  biit  most  easily  from  Stansstad  (2iJ4  hrs.).     The  road  ascends 


90     Route  24.  ALPNACH-GESTAD.  From  Lucerne 

to  the  ].  from  the  SianR  road,  3J4  M.  from  Stansstad,  and  leads  partly 
through  wood  to  the  ('J4  hr.)  chapel  of  Oh-BUrgen^  the  houses  of  which 
are  scattered  over  the  pastures  of  the  plateau.  The  road  terminates  *|2  hr. 
farther.  A  good  path  then  leads  straight  on  to  {}\2  hr.)  Trogen^  a  solitary 
tavern,  where  a  guide  (*|2  fr.)  should  be  taken  to  the  ('12  hr.)  Hammet- 
schwand^  as  the  summit  of  the  Biirgenstock  is  called  (last  part  of  the 
ascent  steep).  Striking  view  of  the  lake  of  Lucerne,  from  which  the 
Biirgenstock  rises  abruptly,  the  Rigi,  etc.  —  On  the  Tritt  (2864'),  the  W. 
spur  of  the  mountain,  1  hr.  above  Kehrsiten  (see  above),  is  .ntuated  a 
lai^e  new  Curhaus^  or  pension. 

The  Lopper,  the  E.  spur  of  Pilatus,  whi6h  extends  far  into 
the  lake,  is  skirted  by  the  above-described  road  from  Lucerne  to 
Alpnach.  The  brook  opposite,  which  falls  into  the  lake  at  Stans- 
stad,  has  considerably  narrowed  the  channel  between  the  Lake 
of  Lucerne  and  the  Lake  of  Alpnach  with  its  alluvial  deposits, 
and  the  strait  is  now  crossed  by  an  embankment  and  a  bridge 
(Acherhriicke),  which  is  raised  to  permit  the  passage  of  the  steam- 
boat (on  the  r.  the  inn  Zur  Acherbrucke).  Within  the  Bay  of 
Alpnach  rises  the  Rozberg  (2214';  Roz^  RosSy  or  Roche^  signifying 
rock),  separated  from  the  Plattiherg  by  the  *Sozloeh,  a  narrow 
ravine,  in  which  the  Mehlbach  forms  several  waterfalls  and  turns 
the  water-wheels  of  a  paper  manufactory.  The  pleasant  *H6tel 
Blcittler  (R.  I1/21  B.  1,  pens.  5  fr.)  is  situated  here  on  the  lake, 
amidst  gardens  and  orchards.  On  the  slope  of  the  Rozberg,  V4hr. 
to  the  E.,  is  the  *  Pension  Kenel- Christen. 

Walk  from  Stanssiad  to  Sachseln.  The  path  skirts  the  lake 
for  a  short  distance,  and  then  enters  the  Rozloch.  At  Alltoeg  (2  M.  from 
Stansstad),  where  there  is  a  chapel  in  memorj"  of  Winkelried  (pp.  15,  86) 
and  an  *inn,  the  path  joins  the  Stans  and  Barnen  Road  (no  diligence), 
which  passes  the  W.  base  of  the  Stanserhom  (pf.  86),  and  leads  by  Rohren 
to  (2t|4  M.)  St.  Jacobs  a  village  with  an  old  church  (where  the  Mehlbach  is 
crossed),  and  through  the  Kemtoald  to  (3.  M.)  Kerns  (*Kronei  Hirsch^ 
Rossli),  a  pleasant  village  with  a  handsome  church,  and  to  (2iJ4  M.)  Samen. 
The  direct  road  from  Kerns  to  Sachseln  does  not  pass  through  Samen,  but 
crosses  the  entrance  of  the  Melchthal  (see  p.  91),  and  is  1*|2  M.  shorter. 

Alpnach-Oestad  (*H6tel  Pilate  or  Post^  on  the  lake,  R.  2,  B. 
1  fr. ;  Stem;  Rossli)  is  the  harbour  for  the  village  of  Alpnach 
(1529')  (SchliXssel;  Sonne),  1^2  jMT-  distant.  The  village  church 
with  its  slender  steeple  was  erected  with  the  proceeds  of  the  sale 
of  timber  from  the  forests  of  Pilatus,  which  were  rendered  acces- 
sible by  a  wooden  slide.  8  M.  long,  and  were  cut  down  in  1811-19. 
—  Ascent  of  Pilatus,  see  p.  56. 

The  road  to  Samen  follows  the  1.  bank  of  the  Aa,  which 
descends  from  the  lake  of  Samen  to  that  of  Alpnach,  and  near 
Alpnach,  Kdgiswyl,  and  Samen  crosses  its  affluents  by  means 
of  covered  wooden   bridges. 

41/2  M.  Sarnen  (1630')  (ObwaldnerHof;  Adler,  R.  1  fr.,  B. 
1  fr. ;  Samer  Hof;  Schlussel;  Post;  Pension  Niederherger  on  the 
*Boir,  1/4  hr.  to  the  E.),  with  3720  inhab.  (81  Prot.),  the  capital 
of  Obwalden,  the  W.  part  of  the  canton  of  Unterwalden,  and  the 
seat  of  government,  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Melch-Aa  and 
the  Samer-Aa^  and  possesses  a   nuiinery  and  Capuchin   monas- 


to  Brienx.  SARNEN.  24.  Routt.     91 

teiy.  The  Town  HaU  contains  portraits  of  all  the  magistrates  of 
Obwalden  from  the  year  1381  to  1824,  and  one  of  St.  Nikolaus 
von  der  Flue  (see  below),  and  a  relief  map  of  Unterwalden  and 
Hasli.  The  church,  on  a  hill,  the  cantonal  hospital  and  the 
large  poor-house  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  and  the  arsenal  on 
the  Landenberg  (1667')  are  conspicuous  objects ;  fine  view  of  the 
Sarnen  and  Melch  valleys  from  the  latter.  The  peasant  women  of 
Unterwalden  interlace  the  plaits  of  their  hair  with  white  riband, 
fastening  it  up  with  a  peculiar  spoon-shaped  silver  buckle. 

At  the  head  of  the  Schlieren-Thal^  S^b  hrs.  to  the  W.  of  Sarnen,  lies 
the  sequeAtered  Schttendi- Kaltbad  (4737')  with  an  *inn,  a  mineral 
spring,  whey-cure,  etc.  A  road  ascends  the  slope  of  the  Sdaedndiberg^  to 
the  W.  of  Sarnen,  as  far  as  {}\a  hr.)  Stalden,  situated  high  above  the  lake 
of  Sarnen,  from  which  a  good  path  leads  to  Schwendi,  a  great  part  of  the 
way  through  wood. 

To  the  E.  of  Sarnen  is  the  Melehthalt  a  romantic  valley,  15  M:  in 
length,  studded  with  numerous  chalets,  and  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains 
{Hochstollen^  815(y;  Lauberstocky  8268')-  At  the  upper  end  is  the  Melchsee  ^ 
(6427')  (p.  130),  whose  waters  are  lost  in  a  cleft  of  the  rock,  and  3  M.  below ' 
re-appear  as  the  Melch-Aa.  From  the  village  of  Melchthal ,  a  pass  leads 
over  the  Jochli  (7119')  to  Engelberg  (p.  87)  in  4  hrs.,  and  another,  less  in- 
teresting, over  the  Storregg  (5709')  in  4'J2  hrs.  \  a  third  crosses  the  Melch- 
alp  to  Meiringen  and  the  Engstlen-Alp  (p.  130).  From  the  Jochli  the  summit 
of  the  Butstock  (8789'),  commanding  a  fine  view,  may  be  attained  in  3  Urs. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  valley  stands  St.  NiklavMni^^bl^  or  81.  Klausy  the 
first  Christian  church  erected  in  this  district.  The  ancient  tower  adjoining 
it  is  termed  by  the  natives  Heidenthvrm  (Heathens'  Tower).  Nearly  oppo- 
site, 3  M.  from  Sarnen,  is  the  Ran/t  (brow  of  the  mountain),  formerly  a 
barren  wilderness,  with  the  hermitage  of  St.  Nikolatu  txm  der  FWe^  part 
of  the  woodwork  of  which,  and  of  the  stone  which  served  him  for  a  pillow, 
have  been  carried  away .  by  relic-hunters.  The  saint  derived  his  name 
from  the  ^Fltie",  or  rock,  near  which  he  lived.  In  his  fiftieth  year  he 
is  said  to  have  left  his  family  of  ten  children,  retired  from  public  life, 
and  for  the  first  20  years  of  his  seclusion  to  have  subsisted  solely  on  the 
sacramental  elements,  of  which  he  partook  monthly.  After  the  successful 
termination  of  the  war  against  Charles  the  Bold  of  Burgundy  in  1482, 
the  Federal  deputies  assembled  at  Stans  could  not  agree  about  the  division 
of  the  spoil,  but  through  the  intervention  of  the  venerable  hermit  the  dis- 
pute was  soon  amicably  settled.  After  his  death  (1487)  he  was  canonised. 
His  memory  is  still  revered  by  the  people,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  hut  in 
the  Forest  Cantons  of  Unterwalden  that  does  not  possess  a  portrait  of 
Brother  Klaus. 

The  Lake  of  Sarnen  (15520,  ^V2  M.  long,  IV2  M.  broad, 
is  well  stocked  with  flsh.  Pedestrians  save  Y2  1^'-  ^Y  rowing  to 
the  other  end  of  the  lake  (2  fr.).  The  Valley  of  Samenj  although 
pleasing  and  picturesque ,  has  no  pretension  to  the  grandeur  of 
Alpine  scenery. 

The  large  church  (1663')  of  the  village  of  Sachseln  (1598') 
(*Kreuz;  Engel;  Rossliy  Ldwe)^  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake, 
IY2M.  from  Sarnen,  contains  the  bones  of  St.  Nikolaus  and  other 
relics 

The  village  of  (33/4  M.)  Giswyl  (1801')  (Krone,  unpretend- 
ing), situated  between  the  lakes  of  Sarnen  and  Lungern,  was 
partially  destroyed  in  1629  by  inundations  of  the  Lanibach.  A 
lake  was  thus  formed,  and  130  years  later  was  drained  into  the 


92     RouU  24,  BRUNIG  PASS. 

lake  of  Sarnen.     Fine  view  from  the  churchyard.     On  the  slope 

to  the  1.  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  chateau  of  the  von  Rudenz  iaimily . 

The  Brienzer  Rothhom  (p.  126)  may  be  ascended  from  Giawyl  in  6  hrs. ; 
path  for  the  first  3  hrs.  good,  afterwards  steep  and  disagreeable. 

The  road  now  ascends  the  Kaiserstuhl  (2326'),  and  at  (2^4  M.) 
Burglen  (*Zum  Kaiserstuhl,  R.  and  B.  2  fr.)  reaches  the  Lake 
of  Lnngem  (2283').  The  three  peaks  of  the  Wetterhorn  become 
visible  to  the  S.  The  road  leads  along  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake 
(11/2  M.),  at  a  considerable  height  above  it,  and  next  reaches 
(I72  M.)  the  large  village  of 

IOV2  M.  Lnngem  (2165')  (Lowe,  or  Post,  D.  4  fr. ;  H6Ul 
Briinig),  entirely  built  of  wood,  situated  in  a  basin  at  the  foot 
of  the  Briinig  and  near  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  one-half  of 
which  was  drained  into  the  Sarner  See  in  1836.  The  DundeU- 
bach  forms  a  picturesque  fall  on  the  W.  side. 

The  new  post-road  over  the  Briinig  ascends  to  the  1.  in  long 
windings  through  wood,  affording  occasional  views,  enters  the 
canton  of  Berne,  and  reaches  the  summit  of  the  Brnnig  Pais 
(3395'),  beyond  which  is  the  H6tel  Brunigkulm,  Fine  prospect 
from  the  WyUrhom  (6581'),  1  hr.  N.W.  of  the  Briinig,  3  hrs. 
from  Brienz. 

The  road  to  (4^0  M.)  Meiringen  descends  to  the  1.  about 
3/4  M.  beyond  the  summit  of  the  pass,  leading  through  the  hamlet 
of  Briinig  (a  steep  path  descending  to  the  1.  near  the  inn  cuts 
off  the  angle  formed  by  the  roads).  The  pleasant  road  to  Brienz 
winds  down  the  hill,  occasionally  under  overhanging  rocks.  Oppo- 
site, the  Engelhorner  (p.  124)  become  visible.  To  the  1.  the 
valley  of  Meiringen  as  far  as  the  Kirchet  (p.  133),  and  Meiringen 
Itself  are  overlooked ;  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain-range  to  the 
S.,  the  lower  fall  of  the  Reichenbach  (p.  125)  is  visible;  oppo- 
site the  traveller  the  fall  of  the  Oltschibach  (p.  126);  below  him 
the  river  Aare,  and  to  the  r.  a  portion  of  the  lake  of  Brienz. 
The  road,  the  windings  of  which  may  be  avoided  by  short-cuts, 
descends  by  BrienzvyyUr  (Bar),  a  village  situated  among  pastures 
and  orchards,  to  the  Bridge  of  Brienzwyler  over  the  Aare,  where 
it  unites  with  the  high  road  from  Meiringen  to  Brienz.  From  this 
point  to  Brienz,  see  p.  126. 

25.   From  Lncerne  to  Bern.   Entlebuch.  Emmenthal. 

60  M.  Diligence  to  Escholzmatt  in  61/4,  to  Langnau  in  8  hrs. 
Railway  from  Langnau  to  Bern  in  1  hr.^  fares  4  fr.,  2  fr.  80  c,  2  fr. 

The  Old  Road,  which  is  still  almost  exclusively  used,  leads 
past  the  (1.)  Sonnenherg  (p.  51),  and  by  Littau  and  Blatten  to 
Mailers  and  (7^2  M.)  Sehachen.  The  excellent  New  Road  from 
Lucerne  to  Malters  describes  a  long  curve  to  the  N. ,  following 
the  course  of  the  Emme,  which  it  crosses  twice. 

The  old  Bramegg  Road  ascends  from  Sehachen  in  steep  windings, 
passing  the   Bath»  of  FambUhl  (rustic)   to   the  (1*J4  hr.)  Bramegg  (3153'). 


ENTLEBUCH.  25.  RouU.     93 

View  of  Pilatus,  the  Rigi,  and  the  Alps  of  Schwyz  and  Uri  from  the  inn. 
The  road  then  descends  to  ('j^  H.)  Entlebuch. 

The  post  road  skirts  the  base  of  the  Bramegg  ^  passes  the 
suppressed  monastery  of  Werthenatein^  and  reaches 

121/2  M.  WohUiaufen  (1873').  On  the  Menzherg,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Napf  (see  below)  is  a  sanitary  establishment  of  some  re- 
pute. The  road,  following  the  Emme,  now  leads  S.  to  Entlebuch 
(23690  {^Hdtel  du  Port;  *Drei  KorUge),  where  the  EniUnbach 
unites  with  the  Kleine  Emme,  a  stream  which  waters  the  Entle- 
buch, a  valley  about  30  M.  long.  On  both  sides  are  lofty  moun- 
tains, which  do  not,  however,  reach  the  snow-line.  Cattle-breeding 
and  cheese-making  are  the  principal  pursuits  of  the  inhabitants, 

who  are  remarkable  for  their  intelligence   and  athletic  physique. 

The  Napf  (4619^),  to  the  W.  of  Entlebuch,  which  commands  a  magniA- 
cent  view,  is  frequently  ascended  (3  hrs.)  from  Entlebuch,  or  better  from 
Trubschachen  (see  below)^  passing  the  village  of  Trub  (*Inn),  40  min.  to 
the  Tf.E.,  to  which  there  is  a  carriage-road. 

The  next  place  is  (3  M.)  Sohtpfheim  (2388')  (AdUr ;  Rotsli); 
the  capital  of  the  valley,  rebuilt  after  a  lire  in  1829.  Near  it, 
1 V4  hr.  to  the  E.,  is  the  Heilighrtuz  (3701')  sanitary  establishment, 
with  a  rustic  inn  and  fine  view. 

A  road  leads  from  Schiipfheim  to  the  S.  through  the  narrow  and 
rocky  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Kleine  Emme,  by  the  prettily  situ- 
ated village  of  FlUhli  (Inn),  to  (10»|2  M.)  Sdrenherg  (3822')  (♦Inn),  which 
lies  in  the  highest  part  of  the  Emmenthal,  or  Marienthal.  Guide  thence 
to  the  (4»J2  hrs.)  summit  of  the  Briemer  Rothhom  (p.  126) ,  whence  a 
bridle-path  descends  to  (2  hrs.)  Brienz. 

The  road  crosses  the  Kleine  Emme  ^/^  M.  above  Schiipfheim, 
and  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Weitse  Emme  to 

14  M.  Eseholimatt  (2798')  (*L6we;  Krone),  a  scattered 
village,  the  last  in  the  Entlebuch.  Wyssenbach  (•Inn)  is  on  the 
Lucerne  frontier.  The  road  now  enters  the  canton  of  Bern,  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  Ilfia,  passing  Kroschenbrunnen ,  Trub- 
schachen,  and  a  handsome  Hospital  (for  100  orphans  and  300 
paupers),  a  master-piece  of  the  Emmenthal  carpenters,  and  leads 
by  Bdrau  to 

10  M.  Langnan  (2244')  (*H6Ul  Emmenthal;  *Hirsch,  R.  2, 
L.  1/2?  S-  ^V2  ^'-i  Lowe),  a  thriving  village  with  6214  inhab., 
the  capital  of  the  Emmenthal,  a  valley  about  30  M.  long, 
12 — 15  M.  wide,  watered  by  the  lifts  and  the  Grosse  Emme, 
and  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  Switzerland.  It  is  famous  for 
its  wooden  houses ,  which  are  sometimes  exported ,  and  for  its 
cheese.  The  carefully  kept  meadows,  line  breed  of  cattle,  and 
comfortable  dwellings  with  their  pretty  gardens,  all  bear  testimony 
to  the  industry  and  prosperity  of  the  Emmenthalers.  A  mon- 
ument at  Langnau  was  erected  in  1849  to  the  men  of  Bern 
who  fell  in  the  war  of  the  Separate  League  in  1847. 

R  a  Had  ay.  Soon  after  leaving  Langnau,  the  train  crosses  the 
Ilfia  and  the  Emme.  Stations  Emmenmatt,  Signau  (Bar),  and 
Zdzivoyl,  thriving  villages.    It  then  skirts  the  Hornberg  in  a  wide 


94     Route  26.  BERN. 

carve,  and  passes  stations  Konolfingen,  Tiigertschi,  and  Worh 
(Sonne;  Lowe),  a  wealthy  place,  with  an  old  Schloss.  Pleasing 
view  of  the  Stockhorn  chain  to  the  1.  From  stat.  (jfumligen 
(1850')  on  the  Bern  and  Thun  line  to  Bern,  see  p.  100. 

26.    Bern. 

Hotels.  *Bernek  Hof  (PI.  a),  adjacent  to  the  Federal  Council  Hall, 
R.  3  fr.  and  upwards,  L.  1 ,  B.  1>|2,  D.  excl.  W.  at  1  o'cl.  4,  at  5  o'cl.  4»|2, 
A.  1  fr.  (newspapers;  baths  in  the  hotel);  ^Hotbl  Bbllevub,  adjoining  the 
Mint  (PI.  19),  less  expensive;  both  these  hotels  command  a  full  view  of 
the  Alps.  Opposite  the  station :  *Schweiz£RHof  (PI.  b),  a  little  to  the  1.  on 
leaving  the  station,  R.  2  fr.  and  upwards,  B.  l^j?,  D.  at  12>J2  o'cl.  3,  at  5  o''cl. 
4,  A.  >|4  fr. ;  immediately  to  the  1.  as  the  station  is  quitted,  ^Bodlevard, 
with  spacious  apartments,  R.  2i|«,  D.  3,  B.  Ujt  fr. ;  ^Hotel  db  France,  near 
the  station  and  the  post-office,  R.  li{«,'  B.  1  fr.  —  In  the  town:  *Faocon 
(PI.  d),  R.  and  L.  2i|2,  B.  li|2,  D.  3,  A.  1  fr. ;  ^Pfibtern  {Abbape  des  Boulangers^ 
PI.  e),  near  the  clock-tower.  *Storch  (PI.  k);  Mohr  (PI.  f);  Affe  (PI.  g); 
SoHMiBDEN  (MardchauXj  PI.  h);  Wbbern,  Marktgasse;  these  five  last  are  all 
good  second-class  houses.  —  Unpretending :  Schlussbl  (PI.  1) ;  Bar  ;  ^Wil- 
derHann,  in  the  Aarberger  Str.,  R.  1*|4,  B.  1,  D.  incl.  W.  2  fr.  —  Pensions 
J  AGO!  asci  Hettenhop,  outside  the  Murtenthor;  Pension  Zimmbrwald  (p.  99). 
—  H6tel  et  Pension  Schanzli,  see  p.  98. 

Restaurantflt  etc.  Railway-Reitaurant.  Near  the  station  the  *Re»iaurani 
du  Boulevard  (see  above);  *Cafi  du  Nord^  at  the  egress  from  the  station; 
at  the  Schweixerhof  (see  above) ;  C€^fd  Casino  near  the  Town  -  hall ,  terrace 
with  complete  view  of  the  Alps.  At  the  pavilion  on  the  Muntter-Terrasse 
(p.  96),  coffee,  tea,  ices  (i|4  and  1J2  fr.),  may  l>e  obtained  after  1  p.  m. 
(Sundays  after  4  p.  m.) ;  occasionally  concerts  in  the  evening.  —  Outside 
the  town:  *Ca/d  Sch&mli^  now  H6tel  et  Pennon  des  Etrangers  (PI.  E.  2, 
^Rabenthal-Schanzli^  p.  98),  beyond  the  Railway  bridge  (IJ2  H.)  on  the  lofty 
r.  bank  of  the  Aare,  to  the  £.  near  the  new  Botanic  Garden,  magnificent 
view;  *Caf^  in  der  Enge  (p.  99),  1  M.  beyond  the  Aarberg  Gate.  —  Beer. 
*Kdnig  and  HaJmen  in  the  Barenplatz;  Jttcker  ^  Kramgasse;  Cafi  du  Com- 
merce and  Ca/4  Krone  in  the  Gerechtigkeits-Gasse. 

Bootmaker  recommended  to  mountaineers,  Riesen^  Spitalgasse. 
*Zahnd's  Koaenm  of  Alpine  animals,  Untere  Alpenegg  223  d. 

Baths.     Swimming-Bath  at  the  Holzplatz,  below  the  Bernerhof.    River 
Baths  below  the  Unter-Thor  Bridge,  near  the  ^  Pelikan  \   The  water  of  the 
Aare  is  very  cold.  —    Warm  BatJis  (also  Turkish,  etc.)  at  Staub's,  outside 
the  Murtener  Thor,  in  the  Laupen-Strasse. 

Oarriagea.  One-horse,  drive  within  the  town  1  pers.  60  c. ;  i|4  hr. 
1—2  pers.  80  c.,  3  —  4  pers.  1  fr.  20  c.,  every  additional  >|4  hr.  40  or  60  c. 
Two -horse,  at  the  same  fares  as  for  3  or  4  pers.  with  one  horse.  Each 
box  20  c,  small  articles  free.  From  10  p.  m.  to  6  a.  m.,  double  fares.  For 
the  whole  day,  i.  e.  over  6  hrs.,  1 — 2  pers.  12  fr.,  3 — 4  pers.  18  fr. 

Railway  Station  near  the  Heil.  Geistkirche,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  town. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offloe  (PI.  21),  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  station. 
Branch-office  in  the  Kramgasse,  above  the  'Mohren\ 

English  Ohuroh  Service  in  the  chapel  of  the  Biirgerspital  (PI.  23). 

Principal  Attractions.  If  time  is  limited,  first  visit  the  Cathedral 
Terrace  (Zahringer  monument);  Hiinster-Platz  (Erlach  monument),  Miinz- 
Terrasse  (PI.  19),  Casino  Terrace  and  Council  Hall,  the  great  bastion,  the 
Falkenplatzli ,  and  proceed  thence  to  the  Cafe  at  the  Enge ;  then  cross 
the  Railway  Bridge  (p.  98),  past  the  Botanical  Garden,  to  the  'Schanzli\ 
Up  to  this  point  the  views  gmlually  become  more  extensive  and  beautifUl. 
Then  return  by  the  Railway  Bridge,  walk  through  the  town  to  the  E.  as 
far  as  the  Nydeck  Bridge  (p.  98),  and  cross  this  to  the  Bear's  Den.  —  If 
this  walk  be  too  fatiguing,  proceed  at  once  trom  the  great  bastion  across 
the  railway  bridge  to  the  Schanzli,  the  finest  of  all  the  points  of  view. 


^ 


B£RN.  ^6.  RouU.     95 

Bern  (1765'),  the  capiUl  of  the  canten,  contains  36,002  inhab. 
(2644  Rom.  Cath.),  including  its  extensive  suburbs.  Bern  joined 
the  Confederacy  in  1353,  and  is  still  the  most  important  of  the 
Swiss  cantons ,  though  it  has  lost  Argovie  (Aargau)  and  Vaud, . 
which  became  independent  in  1798.  The  city  is  built  on  a 
peninsula  of  sandstone-rock,  formed  by  the  windings  of  the  Aarty 
which  flows  100  feet  below.  Most  of  the  streets  run  from  E.  to  W. 
The  busiest  and  most  frequented  is  nearly  1  M.  in  length ,  ex- 
tending from  the  Ober-Thor  to  the  Nydeck  Bridge,  under  the 
names  of  Spitalgasse,  Marktgasse,  Kramgasse,  and  Gerechtigkeits- 
gasse.  The  houses  in  the  principal  parts  of  the  old  town  are 
partly  built  over  arcades  (Lauhen)j  under  which  the  pavement  for 
foot-pasdengers  runs.  Of  the  larger  towns  of  Switzerland  Bern 
has  best  preserved  its  characteristic  features.   ' 

Most  of  the  numerous  fountains  are  adorned  ^ith  statues. 
The  most  singular  is  the  ^KindlifreiMr-Bnumen  (Fountain  of 
the  Ogre,  PI.  7),  in  the  Kornhaus  - Platz,  near  the  clock -tower. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  grotesque  figure  in  the  act  of  devour- 
ing a  child,  while  several  others,  doomed  to  the  same  fate, 
protrude  from  his  pocket  and  girdle ;  beneath  is  a  troop  of  armed 
bears.  The  bear,  the  heraldic  emblem  of  Bern,  is  a  constantly 
recurring  object.  Bruin  appears  on  the  neighbouring  Bdren- 
brunnen,  equipped  with  shield,  sword,  banner,  and  helmet. 

Two  gigantic  bears,  tolerably  executed  in  granite,  keep  guard 
over  the  pillars  of  the  (W.)  Obere  Thor;  others  support  a  shield 
in  the  pediment  of  the  Corn-Hall  (PI.  17),  a  handsome  building, 
which  till  1830  always  contained  a  store  of  corn  in  case  of  fam- 
ine. The  large  wine-cellar  under  it  is  much  frequented.  A 
whole  troop  of  bears  go  through  a  performance  at  the  ^look-Tower 

(PI.  29). 

At  3  min.  before  every  hour  a  wooden  cock  gives  the  signal  by 
clapping  its  wings  and  crowing;  1  min.  later  the  bears  march  round  a 
seated  figure,  and  a  harlequin  indicates  the  number  of  the  hour  by  strik- 
ing a  bell.  The  cock  then  repeats  his  signal,  and  when  the  hour  strikes, 
the  seated  figure,  an  old  man  with  a  beard,  turns  an  hour-glass  and 
counts  the  hour  by  raising  his  sceptre  and  opening  his  mouth;  while  the 
bear  on  his  r.  does  the  same  by  inclinations  of  his  head ;  at  the  same  time  a 
stone  figure  in  the  tower  above  strikes  the  hour  on  a  bell  with  a  hammer. 
The  cock  concludes  the  performance  by  crowing  for  the  third  time.  This 
spectacle  always  attracts  a  number  of  admirers.  The  Clock-tower  is  now 
almost  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  but  at  the  time  of  its  erection  it 
was  at  the  E.  end,  and  served  as  a  watch-tower  (inscription,  ^ Bertholdus 
V.  dux  Zaeringiaty  reel.  Burgund.^  urbu  condiior  turrim  et  portam  fecit 
a.  Chr.  1191  ^  renov.  1770^).  The  KcLfigthtirm  (PI.  8),  a  similar  tower 
farther  W.  in  the  same  street,  is  now  used  as  a  prison. 

The  ^Cathedral  (PI.  13),  a  Une  Gothic  structure,  93  yds. 
long,  37  yds.  broad,  76'  high,  begun  in  1421,  completed  in 
1573,  and  restored  in  1850,  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful  de- 
corations and  the  open  Balustrade  of  the  roof,  the  design  of  which 
varies  between  each  pair  of  pillars.  The  W.  Portal  is  parti- 
cularly fine ;  the  sculptures  represent  the  Last  Judgment ;  at  the 


96     RouU  26.  BERN.  Museum, 

sides. the  upper  figures  are  the  Prophets,  the  lower  the  Apostles 
and  the  Wise  and  Foolish  Virgins.  The  unfinished  Tower,  134' 
high,  is  covered  with  a  clumsy  tiled  roof.  The  entrance  to  the 
.  tower  is  hy  the  side-door  in  the  W.  portal.  The  visitor  ascends 
223  steps  to  the  lodge  of  the  tower-keeper  and  a  gallery  command- 
ing a  beautiful  view.  The  tower-keeper  (Y2  ^0  shows  the  relative 
proportions  of  all  the  largest  bells  in  the  world. 

Interior  (admission  90c.).  The  Choir  contains  some  curious  Stained 
Glass  of  the  15th  cent. ,  one  window  representing  the  dogma  of  Transub- 
stantiation ,  another  the  Life  of  Christ.  The  Choir  -  Stalls  ( 1512 )  on  one 
side  are  adorned  with  Apostles,  on  the  other  with  Prophets.  The  rest 
of  the  church  is  almost  destitute  of  ornament.  The  organ  rivals  the  \:\ 
celebrated  instrument  at  Freiburg  (**  performance  almost  every  evening  in 
summer  at  dusk,  adm.  1  fr.,  families  2  fr.).  The  cathedral  boasts  of  two 
Monuments  only :  one  to  Berthold  von  Zdhringen ,  the  founder  of  Bern  (see 
p.  95),  erected  by  the  city  in  1600 ;  the  other  to  the  magistrate  Friedrich 
von  Steiger^  surrounded  by  six  slabs  of  black  marble  bearing  the  names 
of  the  702  men  of  Bern  who  fell  on  5th  March,  1798,  at  Grauholz,  near 
the  Zollikofen  station  (p.  13),  6  M.  to  the  TX.  of  Bern ,  in  an  engagement 
with  the  French. 

The  open  space  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  to  the  W.,  is  adorned 
with  a  bronze  ^Statue  of  Rudolph  von  Erlach  (PI.  11),  the  victor 
at  Laupen  (p.  159),  erected  in  1848,  with  bears  at  the  corners 
and  inscriptions  on  the  pedestal. 

The  ""Cathedral  Terrace  ( Munater  -  Terrasse) ,  100'  above  the 
Aare,  formerly  the  churchyard,  is  now  a  shady  promenade  with 
seats ,  adorned  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Berthold  von  Zdhringen 
(PI.  12),  the  founder  of  Bern ;  the  bronze  reliefs  on  the  pedes- 
tal have  reference  to  the  foundation  of  the  city.  A  bronze  bear 
acts  as  helmet-bearer.     The  jutting  pavilions  at  the  corners  of  the 

terrace  are  used  as  caf^s  (p.  94). 

*Yiews.  Alpi^liilien.  The  great  attraction  of  Bern  is  the  view  it  com- 
mands of  the  snow-clad  Alps  of  the  Bernese  Oberland,  which  in  clear 
weather  are  visible  from  every  open  space  (the  Cathedral  and  Cathedral 
terrace ,  the  Miinz  -  Terrasse ,  Federal  Hall ,  Bastion  outside  the  Upper 
gate ,  Cafe  Schanzli ,  Enge  outside  the  Aarberg  gate).  By  varying  the 
point  of  view ,  the  following  mountains  become  visible  in  addition  to 
those  represented  in  the  annexed  panorama:  to  the  r.  of  the  Doldenhorn, 
the  Balmhorn  (12,099')  with  the  Altels  (11,932',  37  M.  distant) ,  and  over 
the  Gurten,  the  bell-shaped  summit  of  the  Stockhorn  (7195',  18  M.);  also 
to  the  1.  of  the  Schratten  the  peaks  of  the  SpannSrter  (10,515',  53  M.)  and 
the  Schlossherg  (10,279',  54  M.),  both  in  the  canton  of  TJrij  the  crest  of 
the  B&uchlen  near  Escholzmatt  (5813',  24  M.),  and  the  Feuerstein  above 
the  Entlebuch  (7138',  30  M.)-  Nothing  can  surpass  the  sublimity  of  these 
mountains  at  sunset  in  fine  weather,  especially  when  the  W.  horizon  is 
partially  veiled  with  thin  clouds,  and  the  phenomenon  called  the  Alp- 
glilhen  ('Glow  of  the  Alps'),  or  NachglUhen  ('after-glow')  is  produced.  Long 
after  the  shadows  of  evening  have  fallen  upon  the  valleys,  and  the  linger- 
ing rays  of  the  evening  sun  have  faded  from  the  snowy  peaks  themselves, 
the  mountains  begin  to  glow  from  their  bases  upwards,  as  if  illumined  by 
a  bright  internal  fire. 

The  *Hn8eiim  (PI.  20;  admission  gratis  Tuesd.  and  Thursd. 
3 — 0,  Sund.  10 — 12)  is  open  to  strangers  daily  (adm.  Va  ^r-)* 
The  facade  is  adorned  with  statues  of  eight  celebrated  citizens 
of  Berne.     In  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  (in  the  upper  story) 


3F 

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University.  BERN.  26,  Route.     97 

the  bear  of  course  occupies  a  prominent  position.  The  St.  Bernard 
dog  'Barry',  which  is  said  to  ha?e  saved  the  lives  of  15  per- 
soBfi,  is  a^so  exhibited.  The  collection  is  the  largest  in  Switzer- 
land, and  contains  specimens  of  all  the  indigenous  animals  which 
will  interest  the  scientific.  There  are  also  a  few  good  examples 
of  foreign  animals.  Some  fine  specimens  of  crystal,  found  at  the 
Tiefengletscher  (p.  138)  in  1868  are  exhiMted  here,  one  of  them 
270  lbs.  in  weight,  several  others  exceeding  200  lbs.  Small 
portfolios  of  dried  Alpine  plants  may  be  purchased  for  6  to 
50  fr.  each. 

The  Muaeum  of  AntiquiiUg ,  in  the  lower  storey ,  contains 
curiosities  from  Japan  and  Canada,  Roman  and  Pompeian  anti- 
quities, the  field-altar  of  Charles  the  Bold,  and  other  relics  of 
the  booty  of  Grandson  and  Morat,  reliefs,  etc. 

Adjoinittg  the  museum  on  the  S.  is  the 

University  (PI.  30)  (200  students),  founded  in  1834 ;  on  the 
N.  side  the  librarj  (PI.  3),  containing  immerous  histories  of 
Switzerland ,    and    carpets    captured    in    the    Burgundian    wars 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  town  is  the  new  Bom.  Cath.  Church 
(PL  16)  in  the  Gothic  style,  designed  by  Deperthes  of  Rheims. 
On  the  E.  side  of  it  is  the  Bathlunit  (PI.  22),  dating  from  1406, 
restored  in  1868,  with  a  large  covered  staircase  in  front,  and  the 
arms  of  the  Bernese  districts  on  the  facade. 

The  *Kmiitiftiil|  or  Art  Saloon  (PI.  18)  on  the  upper  floor  of 

the  Federal  Council  Hall  (entrance  by  the  principal  portal;  adm. 

gratis  daily,  except  Saturd. ,  in  summer  9-— 4 ,  in  winter  9 — 3 ; 

from.  15th'  Sept.  to  15th  Oct.  a  gratuity  must  be  paid),  contains 

some  good  modern  paintings,  the  position  of  which  is ,  however, 

occasionally  changed. 

I.  Room.  2.  AlbanOy  Virgin  and  Child  \  5.  P.  Breughel^  Eve  of  Mayday  \ 
11.  DUniz^  Portrait.  Casta :  Imhofy  David  with  the  head  of  Goliath  \  Sonnen- 
tchein^  Tomb  of  Madame  Langhans  at  Hindelbank^  Dorer,  design  for  a 
tombstone.  —  II.  Room.  Reinhardt^  Swiss  costumes^  6o.  Meyer ^  the 
Matterhom ;  64,  65.  Loryy  the  Scheidegg,  Jungfrau,  and  Valley  of  Lauter- 
bmnnen ;  76.  ifind^  Group  of  cats.  —  III.  Room.  100.  Diday  \  Landscape. 
Casts:  Imhofy  Hagar  and  Ishmael,  Miriam,  Ruth  gleaning.  Eve.  —  IV.  Room. 
128 — 130.  Oirardety  Pastoral  scene.  Alms-giving,  Going  to  school  •,  132.  MoritZy 
The  husband  at  the  tavern^  134,  135.  Diday y  Valley  of  Lauterbrunnen, 
Chalet  in  the  Bernese  Oberland;  136.  De  Meuroriy  Chamois-hunter;  '^140, 
141.  Calame ,  Scene  near  the  Handeck  ,  Waterfall  near  Meiringen  ■,  144. 
KolleTy  9tray  cow  and  calf;  145,  146.  Btephany  Mountain  scene  in  the 
Canton  of  Glarus ,  Landscape  near  Meiringen  \  152.  Oeorgsy  Landscape  near 
Geneva;  154,  155.  ^nArer,  School-examination,  The  little  friend;  159.  Vait- 
tiety  Saying  grace ;  163.  Humbert ,  Herd  crossing  a  stream ;  164.  KappiXy 
Tyvolese  village  life.  —  The  remaining  rooms  contain  casts  from  the  an- 
tique and  several  modem  sculptures. 

The  Arsenal  (PI.  82)  was  despoiled  of  its  greatest  treasures 
by  the  French  in  1798,  but  still  contains  several  objects  of  in- 
terest. 

At  the   upper  (S.W.)  end  of  the  town   stands   the  *Federal 
BiBDEKEK,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  7 


98     Route  26.  BERN. 

Council  Hall  (Bundes-Rathhaus,  PI.  32),  a  handsome  edifice  in 
the  Florentine  style,  completed  in  1857  (porter  on  the  r.  of  the 
principal  entrance,  1  fr.  for  1 — 3  pers.).  The  sessions  of  the 
t^o  great  national  Councils  (see  Introd.  XII),  usually  held  in 
July,  are  open  to  the  public.  The  debates  which  are  sometimes 
very  animated,  are  in  German  (often  the  Swiss  dialect),  French, 
or  Italian.  Rulings  of  the  president,  motions,  resolutions,  etc., 
are  always  announced  both  in  French  and  German.  The  visitor 
should  not  fail  to  ascend  to  the  platform  on  the  roof,  as  it 
commands  the  most  extensive  *view  in  Bern,  embracing  the 
beautifully  and  peculiarly  situated  town,  its  environs,  and  the 
Alps.  —  Opposite  to  it  is  the  new  Musevm^  used  as  a  club, 
with  concert  and  reading  rooms ,  etc.  (introduction  by  a  member 
necessary). 

On  the  £.  side  of  Bern  is  the  imposing  ^Nydeekbrftcke ,  a 
bridge  of  three  arches,  completed  in  1844.  The  centre  arch  has 
a  span  of  160',  and  is  100'  above  the  Aare.  The  bridge,  180  paces 
long,  and  prolonged  on  the  town  side  by  a  viaduct,  was  built 
chiefly  of  erratic  blocks  from  the  Kirchet  (p.  133). 

On  the  r.  bank  of  the  Aare,  close  to  the  bridge,  to  the  r., 
is  the  ^Bears'  Den  (Bdrenyraben^  PI.  2),  constructed  in  1857,  the 
old  den  near  the  Aarberg  Gate  having  been  removed  to  make  room 
for  the  railway.  The  ancient  Egyptians  had  not  a  greater  veneration 
for  the  Ibis,  than  the  modern  Bernese  have  for  the  Bear,  which 
would  seem  to  be  the  tutelary  deity ,  as  well  as  the  heraldic 
emblem,  of  the  canton.  Here  Bruin  in  proprid  persona  is  sup- 
ported, according  to  immemorial  usage,  at  the  expense  of  the 
municipality,  and  the  public  are  prohibited  from  making  him 
any  offerings  except  bread  or  fruit.  In  1861  an  English  officer 
fell  into  one  of  the  dens,  and  was  torn  in  pieces  after  a  long 
aid  desperate  struggle. 

Bern  is  famed  for  its  Charitable  Institutions.  It  possesses  two 
Orphan  Asylums^  a  Lunatic  Asylum^  a  Foundling  Hospital  (Jenner^s)^  two 
handsome  and  spacious  hospitals,  the  Inselspital  (PI.  24)  near  the  Casino, 
and  the  BUrgerspital  (PI.  23)  near  the  station,  with  the  inscription  ,  '■Christo 
in  pauperihns'' .  The  latter  was  once  the  largest  building  in  the  town,  but 
is  now  riralled  by  the  Penitentiary  (Zuchthaus)^  at  the  Aarberg  Gate  (fitted 
up  for  400  prisoners),  and  the  Council  Hall.  The  extensive  new  Lunatic 
Asylum  of  Waldau  near  BoUigent  2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  erected  in 
1854,  receives  200  patients. 

Crossing  the  Bailway  Bridge  (see  p.  14),   at  the  N.W.  end 

of  the  town,    the  traveller  passes  the  Botanical  Garden  (PI.  5), 

laid  out  on  the  sunny  r.  bank  of  the  Aare,  and  reaches  (Y2  M.) 

the  ^Schanzli  (PI.  E.  2;  Hotel  SchanzU- Victoria ,   with  pleasant 

terrace  and  grounds,   and  baths  of  various  kinds,  pension  5 — 7 

fr.),  which  commands  the  finest  view   in   the  environs  of  Bern. 

In  the  foreground  the  city  in  its   entire   extent  is   overlooked; 

above  it  is  the  wooded  Gurten  (see   below),    to   the  1.  of  which 

rise   the  Bernese   Alps   and   to   the   r.    the  Stockhorn   chain ;   to 


WABERN.  26.  Route.     99 

the  extreme  W.  the  MoMson.  About  1  M.  from  the  Aarberg 
Gate,  to  the  N.,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Aare,  ii  the  "Xnge,  a  large 
peninsula  almost  entirely  surrounded  by  the  Aare,  several 
hundred  feet  above  the  river.  This  is  another  admirable  point 
of  view.  Opposite  the  N.  extremity  of  Enge  is  the  chateau  of 
Reickenbaeh  (p.  14),  372  M.  from  Bern. 

The  view  from  the  Ghtrten  (2835') ,  a  long  hill  to  the  S.  of  Bern ,  is 
similar  to  that  from  the  city,  but  more  extensive.  It  embraces  not  only 
the  mountains  of  the  Oberland  (p.  96),  but  also  the  entire  Stockhom  chain, 
the  Freiburg  Alps,  the  Jura  mountains  for  a  distance  of  upwards  of  100  11 . 
with  parts  of  the  Lake  of  Neuchatel ;  to  the  1.  of  the  High  Alps ,  the 
mountains  of  Unterwald  and  Lucerne  as  far  as  Pilatus.  (At  the  top  a 
new  ''Inn.)  The  carriage  -  road  from  Bern  to  the  Gurten,  4  H.  to  the  top, 
leads  from  the  Aarberger  Thor  to  (1>|2  M.)  Wabem,  whence  several 
paths  ascend  through  a  wood  to  the  summit.  On  the  hill  near  the  vil- 
lage are  the  BSchtelen  and  Victoria  asylums  for  deserted  children.  At 
Klein- Wabem  is  the  Pension  Balsiger  ^  recommended  for  a  prolonged  stay. 

Longer  excursion  to  (6M.)  Zimmerwald  (2864')  (*H6tel  -  Pension  Beau- 
S^jonr),  charmingly  situated,  and  (4i|2  M.  farther)  BnUcheleck  (3371'),  with 
an  extensive  view.     The  Belpberg^  see  p.  100. 

27.    The  Bernese  Oberland. 

Time.  Travellers  whose  time  is  limited  may  obtain  a  glimpse  at 
the  surpassing  beauties  of  the  Bernese  Oberland  in  three  days,  but  so 
rapid  a  survey  is  hardly  compatible  with  true  ei^joyment  of  the  scenery. 
(Suitable  places  for  passing  the  night  are  indicated  by  italics).  1st  Day. 
From  Bern  by  railway  in  1  hr.  to  the  steamboat-station  Scherzligen  beyond 
Thun,  steamboat  to  Darligen  in  1>|4  hr.,  railway  to  Interlaken  in  10  min., 
steamboat  to  the  Giessbach  in  3|4  hr.,  rowing-boat  to  Brienz  in  ija  hr., 
diligence  or  two-horse  carr.  to  Meiringen  in  1>J8  hr.  —  2nd  Day.  Walk  to 
the  Great  Scheideck  2>j3  hrs.,  Grindelwald  2  hrs. ,  the  Little  Scheideck  4i|2 
hrs.,  the  Wengemalp  ifs  hr.,  in  all  9>|8  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  Walk  to  Lauter- 
brunnen  2i|2  hrs. ,  Staubbach,  Interlaken  21)2  hrs. ,  by  steamboat  to  Thun 
and  by  railway  to  Bern.  —  If  the  traveller  has  a  fourth  day  at  his  dis- 
posal, he  should  ascend  the  Schynige  Platte  ;  or  he  may  proceed  on  the 
third  day  to  MUrren^  and  on  the  fourth  day  visit  the  upper  part  of  the 
Lauterbrunnen  valley  and  the  Schmadri -  Fall  (or  extend  his  walk  to  the 
Upper  Steinberg),  and  then  drive  from  Lauterbrunnen  to  Interlaken. 

Those  who  do  not  wish  to  return  to  Bern  may  proceed  on  the  fourth 
day  by  the  Briinig  to  Lucerne  (R.  24),  or  to  the  Grimsel  (R.  30),  etc.  Or  a 
carriaige  may  be  taken  to  Grindelwald ,  from  which  the  traveller  may  ride 
or  walk  to  Meiringen  and  the  Grimsel. 

Tariff  of  25th  March,  1873,  a  copy  of  which  every  landlord  and  driver  is 
bound  to  possess.  One-horse  carr.  per  day  15,  two-horse  30  fr.  From  Inter- 
laken to  Zweiliitschinen  7  or  12  fr. ;  to  I^auterbrunnen  and  back ,  with  2 
hrs.  halt,  11  or  20  fr.  \  to  Grindelwald  and  back  in  one  day  16  or  30  fr., 
in  two  days  30  or  50  fr. ;  to  Lauterbrunnen  and  Grindelwald  and  back 
in  one  day  20  or  35  fr.,  in  two  days  30  or  50  fr. ;  to  Grindelwald  via  Lau- 
terbrunnen and  the  Wengemalp,  the  horses  being  ridden  by  the  travellers 
over  the  latter,  for  two  days  96  or  60  fr.  ^  5  gr  10  fr.  are  also  charged  for 
conveying  the  carriage  from  Lauterbrunnen  to  Grindelwald  (or  3  or  6  fr., 
in  the  reverse  direction) ;  to  Lauterbrunnen,  Miirren,  and  Grindelwald  and 
back  in  two  days  35  or  65  fr. ,  in  three  days  incl.  the  Wengemalp  and 
Grindelwald  45  or  80  fr.,  transport  of  carr.  as  above;  to  Habkern  or  the 
Beatenberg  and  back  15  or  25  fr.  \  to  Wimmis  15  or  28  fr.  Charges  for 
other  excursions  arem  entioned  in  the  respective  routes. 

Horse  or  ifttle  per  day,  incl.  attendant,  15  fr.  From  Interlaken:  Faul- 
hom  and  back  in  two  days  85  fr. ;  Abendberg  and  back  15  fr.  —  From 
Lauterhrtmnen:  over  the  Wengemalp  to  Grindelwald  (or  vir 2  versa)  20  fr.; 


100     Route  27.  THUN.  Bernese 

Miirren  12  fr. ;  TrachseUauinen  and  back  12  fr.  >-  From  OrindeUoald:  Paul- 
horn  and  back  17  (if  a  night  be  spent  on  the  summit  25)  fr. ;  to  the  Lower 
Glacier  6,  to  the  Upper  8  fr. ;  to  the  Her  de  Glace  10  fr.  ^  Little  Scheideck 
12  fr. ;  Mannlicben  and  back  15  fr.  \  Meiringen  25  fr.  —  Fvom  Mtwingtn : 
Roscnlaui  and  back  10  fr.  \  Scheideck  16  fr. ;  Faulhom  25  fr. ;  Faulhom 
and  to  Grindelwald  35 ,  to  Lauterbrunnen  45  fr.  ^  Handeck  and  back  in 
one  day  15,  in  two  days  20  fr. ;  Grimsel  %,  Rhone  Glacier  32  fr.  —  Beyond 
these  charges  no  addition  for  returm- journey  can  be  demanded,  except 
where  a  horse  is  employed  for  a  number  of  ccmsecutive  days  and  dismissed 
at  a  distance  from  the  place  of  hiring. 

Guides  (see  Introd.  VIII)  6—8  fr.  per  day  of  8  hours,  return  6  fr. ;  porter 
6  fr.,  return  6  fr.  For  the  usual  route  by  Lauterbrunnen,  Grindelwald,  the 
Scheideck,  Meiringen,  and  Grimsel  no  guide  is  necessary.  On  fine  days  the 
route  is  much  frequented  and  cannot  be  mistaken.  Boys  to  show  the  way 
are  satisfied  with  2  fr.  per  day  and  no  return  •  payment.  They  are  to  be 
met  with  at  the  principal  plaees  on  the  route,  at  the  Grimsel  Hospice,  at 
Brienz,  or  at  Grindelwald. 

The  traveller  in  the  Bernese  Oberland  should  possess  a  considerable 
fund  of  patience  and  of  the  smallest  coin  of  the  realm.  Contributions  are 
levied  upon  him  under  every  possible  pretence.  Vendors  of  strawberries, 
flowers,  and  crystals  first  assail  him,  and  he  has  no  sooner  escaped  their 
importunities  than  he  becomes  a  victim  to  the  questionable  attractions  of  a 
chamois  or  a  marmot.  His  admiration  must  not  be  engrossed  by  a  cas- 
cade, be  it  ever  so  beautiful,  or  by  a  glacier,  be  it  ever  so  imposing  and 
magnificent  ^  the  urchin  who  perai^  in  standing  on  his  head ,  or  turning 
somersaults  for  the  tourisf's  amusement,  must  have  his  share  of  attention. 
Again,  if  the  route  happens  to  pass  an  echo ,  a  pistol  shot  is  made  to  re- 
verberate in  one's  ears ,  and  payment  is  of  course  expected  for  the  un- 
pleasant shock.  Swiss  damsels  next  make  their  appearance  on  the  scene, 
and  the  ebbing  patience  of  the  traveller  is  again  sorely  tried  by  the  na- 
ticmal  melodies  of  these  ruthless  songsters.  Then  there  is  the  Alpine 
horn  and  the  Rans  des  Vaches,  which,  although  musical  when  heard  at 
a  distance,  are  excruciating  when  performed  close  to  the  ear.  The  fact 
is,  the  simplicity  and  morality  of  the  aboriginal  character  in  these  (Mice 
sequestered  regions  has  been  sadly  corrupted  by  modem  invasion.  These 
abuses  had  become  so  crying,  that  the  attention  of  Gkiveniment  was  di- 
rected to  them,  and  commissioners  were  sent  to  inquire  into  the  matter. 
Their  advice  is,  ^Give  to  nobody^;  the  remedy  therefore  lies  principally 
with  travellers  themselves. 

a.     From  Bern  to  ThuxL 

Railway  in  1  hr. ;  fares  3  fr.  15,  2  fr.  20,  1  fr.  eOc.  Seat  on  the  right 
preferable  for  the  view  of  the  Alps ;  but  from  Miinsingen  to  Uttigen  those 
on  the  left.  —  Those  who  wish  to  travel  to  Darligen  (Interlaken)  direct 
should  take  through  -  tickets  at  Bern.  In  this  case  they  proceed  to  the 
Scherzligen  terminus  (see  below),  ^js  M.  beyond  Thun,  where  they  embark 
without  detention. 

The  line  crosses  the  Aare  bridge  (p.  14,  beautiful  glimpse  of 
the  Alpine  chain  on  the  r.),  and  passes  the  grounds  of  the  Bo- 
tanical Garden  and  the  SchansU  (p.  98).  In  the  Wyler  Feld 
the  line  from  Bern  to  Herzogenbuchsee  (p.  14)  diverges  to  the 
S.E.  Beautiful  view  of  »Bern  and  the  Alps  on  the  r.  Stations 
Osiermundigen  ^  Gumligen,  Bubigen,  Muntingen.  On  the  r.  the 
Steckhorn  chain  and  Niesen  (p.  103),  the  extreme  spurs  of  the 
High  Alps,  and  to  the  1.  the  Monch,  Jungftau,  and  BliimUsalp. 

From  M&nxingen  to  the  Belpherg^  the  only  eminence  between 
the  Aare  and  the  GUrbe.  On  leaving  the  railway  station,  take  the  road  to 
the  r.,  leading  to  the  (>|4  M.)  '  Schutzenfahre  \  a  ferry  by  which  the 
Aare  is  crossed.,  the  path  (partly  cut  in  steps)  then  ascends  (li|4  hr.)  to 


merkmd.  THUN.  27.  Routt.      101 

ihe  Hargem  Bpitze  (2906*),  tbe  higtaesi  point,  which  commaiuifl  a  fine  survey 
of  the  valiey  of  the  Aare  as  far  as  Bern  and  the  Jura  chain,  the  mountains 
of  tbe  Bmmenthal,  Thun  and  its  lake,  with  the  Alps  from  Pilatus  to  tbe 
Viesen  and  tbe  Stockhom  chain.  The  traveller  may  descend  to  the  8.E.  by 
the  village  (3M. )  of  Oerzensee  (rustic  inn),  picturesquely  situated  on  a 
small  lake,  to  the  railway  station  (3  M.)  Kieun. 

Stat.  Kiesen.  Near  Btat.  Vitigen  the  line  crosses  the  AarCj 
and  reaches  the  Thun  station,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Aare,  near 
the  lower  bridge,  Y2  ^-  ^'O™  ^^®  steamboat  quay;  passengers 
proceeding  direct  to  Interlaken  keep  their  seats  until  they  reach 
the  Scherzligen  terminus  and  steamboat-station. 

Than.  Hotels.  ^Bellevue,  R.  from  3,  L.  1,  B.  l>|s,  D.  4,  S.  3,  A.  1, 
pension  7 — ^9  f^. ;  delightfnlly  situated  outside  the  town,  with  reading  room 
in  the  park  \  steamboat-station.  —  Fkeibnhof,  moderate.  "^Khkuz,  R.  Qifx, 
B.  1>|4,  A.  *|zfr.,  ()ne  view  from  the  balcony;  Hotbl-Pknbion  Baumgaktbn, 
B.  from  2^t^  pension  from  6fr. ;  '^Kbonb,  adjoining  the  Town  Hall,  unpre- 
tending; Falks,  fine  view. 

Pensions.  De  la  Villette^  to  the  S. ,  on  the  road  to  Hofstetten  \  Bel- 
lerive  (5 — 6  fr.)  at  Hofstetten,  opposite  the  landing-place  at  Scherzligon; 
Seh&nhilhl,  Bemstrasse,  well  situated  (5 — 7  fr.).  Det  A^4S  at  Eicbbithl, 
near  the  castle  of  Hiinegg ,  1  M.  from  Thun.  —  Jtten,  on  the  Amsoldingen 
road,   well  spoken  of  (6  fr.). 

Cafe.  Oberherren,  opposite  the  Freienbof,  beer.  Oa/4  des  Alpes^  on 
the  way  to  the  Bellevue.  Best  beer  at  OfelUr't  brewery,  not  far  from 
Che  station,  to  the  1.  on  crossing  the  bridge. 

Telsgimph  Offtc*  at  the  Post-office. 

Baths  in  the  lake  (ifs  fr<)  t  n«ar  the  Pension  des  Alpes. 

English  Chapel  in  the  grounds  of  the  Bellevue. 

Rowing-boat  on  the  lake,  according  to  tariff  at  the  Bellevue,  3  fr.  per 
hour,  2  hrs.  5  fr.,  3  hrs.  7,  »(2  day  8,  whole  day  10  fr. ;  the  terms  of  the 
boatmen  themselves  are  less  exorbitant.  Fiacre  40  c.  per  drive.  —  Carved 
Wood  at  Kehrli-Sterchfs  in  the  grounds  of  the  Bellevue. 

Thun  (1844'),  with  4623  inhab.  (200  Rom.  Cath.),  charmingly 
situated  on  the  Aare,  3/4  M.  below  its  efflux  from  the  lake, 
forms  a  fitting  introduction  to  the  beauties  of  the  Oberland. 
The  principal  street  is  curious.  In  front  of  the  houses  projects 
a  row  of  magazines  and'  cellars,  about  10'  in  height,  on  the  flat 
roofs  of  which  is  tho  pavement  for  foot  passengers,  flanked 
with  the  shops.  Thun  is  the  centre  of  the  trade  of  the  Ober- 
land. Near  the  bridge  a  covered -way  of  218  steps  leads  to  the 
Churfhy  erected  in  1738.  *View  from  the  churchyard,  embracing 
the  old-fashioned  town,  the  two  arms  of  the  rapid  river,  the  fer- 
tile and  well-cultivated  plain,  and  the  Niesen,  beyond  v^hich  the 
»now-flelds  of  the  Blumlisalp  are  visible.  —  Near  the  churchyard 
rises  the  large  square  tower  of  the  old  Castle  of  Zahringen- 
Kyhurg  (1182')  with  a  turret  at  each  corner,  and  within  the 
walls  of  the  castle  the  AmU-SchloBs^  or  residence  of  the  bailiffs, 
erected  in  1429.  The  descendants  of  tiie  barons  of  Thun  have 
emigrated,  and  the  Austrian  counts  of  the  name  are  said  to 
belong  to  the  same  family. 

Thun  is  the  seat  of  the  Federal  Military  School  for  officers  and 

sergeants,  chiefly  of  artillery  and  engineers. 

WaUoi.  Above  the  town  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Aare,  through  the  grounds 
of  the  BeOewe  (adnission  free),  to  the  pavilion  on  the  '^Jacobthilbeli  iPa- 


10^     Route  27.  WIMMIS.  Bernese 

villon  St.  JaequeSy  2388^),  which  commands  an  extensive  "^view  of  the  lake, 
the  Alps,  Thun,  and  the  valley  of  the  Aare  \  the  '•  Pavilion  Bellfevue",  the 
path  to  which  is  indicated  at  the  first  pavilion,  is  5  min.  higher,  but 
the  view  from  it  only  embraces  Thun  and  the  valley  of  the  Aare.  —  Another 
walk  may  be  taken  on  the  bank  of  the  lake  by  a  shady  path  on  the 
Bdchinuitty  to  the  beginning  of  the  (1  M.)  B&chigut  (19750 1  the  park  of 
which  (the  Bachiholzli)  commands  some  delightful  views.  Admission  only 
on  application  to  the  proprietor,  M.  de  Parpar. 

The  handsomest  of  the  villas  on  the  lake  is  Schadau  (the  property 
of  M.  de  Rougemont),  a  modem  Gothic  building,  charmingly  situated. 
The  sculptures  in  sandstone  with  which  it  is  decorated  deserve  inspec- 
tion. On  Sundays  the  garden  is  open  to  the  public.  —  Farther  on ,  on 
the  r.  bank,  is  the  chateau  of  HUnegg^  in  the  French  Renaissance  style, 
the  property  of  M.  de  Parpart. 

Ezoaraions.  Thieraehern  (1867')  (''Lowe,  pension  S^jz  to  6  fr.,  beauti- 
ful view),  3  M.  to  the  W. ;  3  ]f .  farther  W.,  Bad  Blumenstein  and  the  Fall- 
hach;  thence  in  2i|2  hrs.  to  the  Oumigel  (5069'),  on  the  K.W.  slope  of 
which,  SJ4  hr.  below  the  summit,  are  the  much  frequented  Baths  (3783')  of 
the  same  name  (R.  1,  B.  1  fr.).  Burgistein  (2690^),  a  village  and  castle 
with  fine  view,  9  H.  N.  W.  of  Tliun.  Anisoldingen  (Roman  tombstones),  6  M. 
S.W.  and  the  ancient  tower  of  Strdtiligen  (p.  145),  3i)2  M.  8.  of  Thun.  The 
undulating  district  between  the  Stockenthal  and  Thun  abounds  with  walks 
and  pleasing  mountain  landscapes. 

To  Freiburg  (27  H.)  a  direct  road  leads  through  (9  M.)  Riggisberg 
(2503')  ("Hirsch),  beyond  which  a  fine  view  of  the  Stockhom,  the  Niesen, 
and  the  snow-peaks  of  the  Bernese  Oberland  is  enjoyed ;  then  crossing  the 
Schwarzwasser  to  (7i|'jM.)  Sehwarzenhurg^  and  crossing  the  Setue^  which 
separates  the  cantons  of  Bern  and  Freibui^,  to  (10i|«  M.j  Freiburg. 

To  S a  an  en  through  the  valley  of  the  Sitnme^  see  R.  36. 

b.   The  Kiesen. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  200. 

Three  good  bridle-paths,  which  cannot  be  mistaken,  lead  to  the  summit : 
(1)  on  the  K.  side  from  Wimmi*  in  5  (down  in  3)  hrs.  ^  (2)  on  the  £. ,  from 
the  Heustrich-Bady  ^{a  M.  from  Miihlenen  (p.  145) ,  in  the  same  time ;  (3)  on 
the  S.  side,  from  Frutigen  (p.  146)  in  5 — 6  hrs. 

From  Thun  to  Wimmis  by  the  road  7»j2  M.  (one-horse  carr.  in  I'j^  hr. 
8  fr.  ^  diligence  as  far  as  Brothiiusi,  see  p.  153).  Steamboat  to  Spiez  (p.  104)^ 
thence  by  Spiezwyler  to  Wimmis  3>|4  M.  —  An  omnibus  runs  from  Thun 
to  the  Heustrich-Bad  ^  one-horse  carr.  in  l^jx  hr.,  8  fr.  —  Diligence  from 
Thun  to  Frutigen  twice  daily  in  3  hrs.,  fare  2  fr.  10  c. 

Horse  to  the  top  of  the  l^iesen,  and  back  on  the  same  day,  from 
Wimmis  or  Frutigen  17,  from  the  Heustrich-Bad  17 ;  if  a  night  be  spent  on 
the  summit,  25  fr.  From  Frutigen  to  Wimmis  or  the  Heustrich-Bad  over 
the  Niesen  in  one  day  30,  two  days  35  fr.  —  Ouide  (unnecessary)  6,  if  kept 
till  next  day,  8  fr.     Chair  porters  10,  if  kept  till  next  day,  12  fr. 

From  the  post-station  Broihausi  (p.  153)  a  footpath  descends 
to  the  1.,  to  the  deep,  stony  bed  of  the  ^tmme,  crosses  it  by 
a  wooden  bridge,  and  ascends  to  Wimmis.  The  carriage  -  road 
describes  a  circuit  of  1  M. 

Wimmis  (2080')  (*Ldwe)  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  fertile 
district  at  the  E.  base  of  the  Burgfluh  (5072'),  and  overlooked 
by  a  castle,  now  occupied  by  a  school  and  the  district-authori- 
ties. The  church  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  King  Ru- 
dolph II.  of  Burgundy  in  933. 

From  Wimmis.  The  path  hence  to  the  Xiesen  ascends  on  the  8.  side 
of  the  Burgfluh.  At  the  village  fountain  it  leads  in  a  straight  direction  j 
after  25  miu.  it  turns  to  the   1.  by  a  gate^  the  (12  min.)  8laldenb<»ch   is 


Oberland.  NIESEN.  27.  Route.      103 

then  crogsed,  beyond  which  there  can  be  no  mistake.  The  N.  slopes  of 
the  BeUJiuh  are  next  ascended.  Refreshments  at  the  first  inhabited  chalet 
on  the  ^Bergli\  About  half-way,  by  the  chalets  of  UntersUtlden,  the  path 
crosses  to  the  r.  bank  of  the  Staldenbach,  and  winds  up  the  sunny  slopes 
of  the  Niesen,  past  the  chalets  of  Oberstalden.  The  prospect  first  unfolds 
itself  beyond  the  Sktldenegg^  a  sharp  ridge  connecting  the  BettJItth  (7924', 
also  called  Fromberghorn  or  Hinter-Nieser^  with  the  Niesen,  and  the  vast 
snoW'flelds  of  the  Bliimlisalp  and  Doldenhorn  become  visible. 

From  the  Heustrieh-Bad  (p.  145).  This  is  the  best  route.  The 
bridle-path  ascends  in  windings  for  1  hr.  to  the  W.,  through  beautiful  beech- 
woods,  then  for  ijs  hr.  to  the  S.  to  the  *•  SchUchtenwaldegg"  (superb  view); 
finally  2^i  hrs.  towards  the  N.  to  the  summit  of  the  Niesen.  The  path 
is  proviaed  with  benches,  on  which  the  distances  and  heights  are  given. 
Numerous  and  diversified  points  of  view  on  this  route.  (Drinking  water 
scarce.) 

From  Frittigen  (p.  146)  to  the  summit  of  the  Niesen  5  hrs.  (guide 
unnecessary).  The  bridle-path  diverges  to  the  1.  near  the  end  of  the 
village,  and  crosses  the  meadows  to  Winkeln  (ifzhr.),  from  which  it  as- 
cends in  windings  through  the  wood  for  ifg  hr.  Then  a  gentle  ascent 
across  meadows  to  the  Bentigrabtn  {VW  hr.),  to  the  Nietenegg  (20  min.) 
and  the  Mesen-ChcUet  Ol^  hr.).  The  patn  unites  on  the  Staidenegg  (1  hr.) 
with  that  from  Wimmis.  This  route  in  the  reverse  direction  affords  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  Kanderthal  and  the  Alps. 

Inn^  6  min.  from  the  summit,  R.  from  2iJ«,  B.  ISJ4,  D.  or  S.  31(4,  L.  ^{4, 
A.  i|2  fr. ;  40  c.  charged  for  fire  in  the  dining-room. 

The  nriewn  (7763',  Rlgi  5905',  Faolhorn  8803'),  the  con- 
spicuous N.  outpost  of  a  ramification  of  the  Wildstrubel ,  and 
like  Pilatus  considered  an  Infallible  barometer  (see  p.  56),  is 
in  the  form  of  a  gently  sloping  pyramid.  The  rocks  at  the 
base  are  clay-slate,  those  of  the  upper  part  sandstone-conglo- 
merate. The  summit  consists  of  a  narrow  crest,  terminated 
by  two  small  peaks,  below  one  of  which  the  inn  is  situated; 
the  other,  300  paces  from  the  inn,  is  a  little  higher,  and 
commands  an  uninterrupted  prospect.  The  Alps  are  seen  to 
greater  advantage  than  from  the  Rigi ;  indeed,  the  view  is  scarcely 
inferior  to  that  from  the  Faulhorn.  As  the  group  of  the  Wet- 
terhorner,  etc.  forms  the  foreground  of  the  view  from  the  latter, 
80  the  Niesen  commands  an  unimpeded  prospect  of  the  broad  snow- 
flelds  of  the  Bliimlisalp ,  rising  at  the  extremity  of  the  Kienthal. 

View.  The  most  conspicuous  of  the  snow-mountains  are  the  following : 
in  the  distance  to  the  E.  the  Titlis ;  nearer,  the  Wetterhomer  and  Schreck- 
homer,  the  Eiger,  Monch,  Jungfrau,  Gletscherhom,  Ebnefluh,  Mittaghom, 
<}ro88hom,  Breithom,  and  Tschingelhom ;  towards  the  S.  the  Frau  or 
Bliimlisalp,  the  Doldenhorn,  Balmhorn,  and  Altels;  to  the  W. ,  the  Wild- 
horn,  appearing  between  two  black  peaks ;  to  the  1.  of  these  the  pinnacles 
of  the  Mont  Blanc  group ;  finally  the  two  peaks  of  the  Dent  du  Midi,  form- 
ing the  last  snow -group  towards  the  W.  The  entire  lake  of  Thun  is  vi- 
sible, and  part  of  that  of  Brienz.  The  thickly  peopled  valleys  of  the 
Simme ,  Engstligenbach ,  and  Kander,  and  the  Kienthal  may  be  traced  for 
a  considerable  distance.  Towards  the  N.  the  course  of  the  Aare,  and  the 
hilly  country  of  Bern ,  as  far  as  the  Jura,  complete  the  prospect  (comp. 
DilPs  excellent  Panorama  at  the  inn).  The  most  favourable  light  is  towards 
sunset.    During  the  day  the  plains  alone  are  seen  to  advantage. 


104     Route  27.  LAKE  OF  THUN.  B^mese 


c.    From  Thun  to  Intorlaken.    Lake  of  Diun. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  100, 

Steamboat  4 — 5  times  daily  in  \}\^  hr.  from  Thun  {Scherzligeu; 
comp.  p.  100)  to  Darljgen  (stations  Oberhofen^  Gonten^  SpieZy  LeUtigeny  tte 
last  not  always  touched  at).  —  Railway  from  Darligea  to  Interlaken  in 
connection  with  the  steamboats  in  10  min.  (1st  class  fare  from  Than  <o 
Interlaken  2  fr.  80  c).  —  Road  on  the  S.  bank  to  Interlaken  (18  SI.),  a 
pleasant  drive;  on  the  IS.  bank  a  road  to  (9  H.)  Merligen  (p.  105),  from 
which  a  path  leads  to  Interlaken  in  2  hrs. 

The  Lake  of  Thun  (1837')  is  IOV2  M.  long,  and  2  M. 
broad;  its  greatest  depth  is  1844'.  The  banks  are  at  first 
studded  with  picturesque  villas  and  gardens,  but  further  on, 
the  N.  bank  becomes  precipitous. 

The  steamboat  starts  from  the  quay  near  the  Freienhof  hotel 
p.  101),  and  ascending  the  Aare,  stops  at  the  Bellevue  (p.  101), 
and  then  at  Scherzligeriy  the  railway  -  terminus  (see  p.  101).  To 
the  1.  lies  the  picturesque  Baehigut  (p.  102);  to  the  r.,  where 
the  Aare  emerges  from  the  lake,  Schloss  Schadau  (p.  102).  The 
Stockhorn  (7195'),  with  its  conical  summit,  and  the  pyramid  of 
the  Niesen  (7763')  rise  on  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  entrance  to  the 
valleys  of  the  Kander  and  Simme  (p.  153).  On  the  1.  of  the 
Niesen  the  three  peaks  of  the  Blumlisalp ;  on  the  r. ,  in  the 
background  of  the  Kanderthal,  the  Freundhorn,  Dold«nhoro, 
fialmhorn  with  the  Altels,  and  the  Rinderhorn  gradually  become 
visible  (from  1.  to  r.).  In  the  direction  of  Interlaken  appear 
successively  (from  r.  to  1.)  the  JuBgfrau,  Monch,  Biger,  Schieck- 
horn,  and  Wetterhorn. 

The  steamer  skirts  the  N.£.  hank,  which  is  clothed  with 
vineyards,  and  higher  up  with  woods,  and  passes  the  pleasant 
village  of  Hitter  fifty  en  (Pension  des  Alpes);  to  the  1.  the  chateau 
of  Hiinegg  (p.  102).  It  touches  at  Oberhafen  (Bat;  PtsMion 
Zimmermanny  with  restaurant ;  Pension  Oberhofen),  which  possesses 
a  remarkably  picturesque  chateau  of  Count  PonrtaUs,  once  the 
seat  of  Walther  von  Kschenbach,  and  recently  restored,  and  a 
hospital  founded  by  the  Pourtal^s  family ;  then  at  Oonten  (  Weis- 
ses  Kreuz;  Pension  du  Lac;  Pension  Schonhergy  higher  up  the 
hill),  above  which  rises  the  church  of  Sigriswyl  (with  an  un- 
pretending pension).  The  steamer  now  crosses  the  lake  at  the 
broadest  part,  and  steers  towards  the  S.  to  Spies  (^Ztir  Schon- 
egg,  pension  5  fr.),  a  small  village  on  a  promontory  on  the  S. 
bank,  with  a  picturesque  old  chateau,  which  for  300  years  has 
belonged  to  the  Yon  Erlach  family  (ascent  of  the  Niesen,  p.  102; 
diligence  to  Frutigen,  p.  146).  Near  Spiez,  two  black  peaks 
are  visible  for  a  short  time  towards  the  E. ,  above  the  S.  bank 
of  the  lake  of  Brienz ;  that  to  the  r.  is  the  Faulhorn,  the  broader 
to  the  1.  the  Schwarzhorn.  ^ 

As  the  steamboat  proceeds  towards  Darligen,  the  Ralligstocke 
(4901')  and    the  Sigriswyler   Rothhom  (6736')  are  conspicuous 


mtrUmd.  INTEiliiAKEN.  27.  Route.      105 

on  the  N.  bank.  Beyond  Merligen  (Ldwe)  a  rocky  head -laud 
called  the  Na$e  stretches  into  the  lake.  A  little  further,  on  the 
N.  side,  rises  the  Beaimberg ,  with  the  Cavern  of  8t.  Beaims 
{Beatenh6hle,  2782^).  The  stream  which  rises  In  the  latter  fre- 
quently increases  rapidly,  fills  the  eavem,  and  bursts  forth  from 
it  with  a  roar  like  thunder.  St.  Beatus,  the  ftrst  preacher  of  Chri- 
stianity in  this  district,  is  said  to  haTe  dwelt  in  the  cave. 

The  next  place  on  the  S.  bank  is  KraiUffen]  then  LeUsigen 
(Steinbeck),  at  the  base  of  the  Morgenberghorn  (p.  Ill),  pleasantly 
situated  among  fruit-trees.  The  steamboat  stops  at  D&rligen 
(Hirsek)^  the  terminus  of  the  ^Bodeli  Railway,'  by  which  passen- 
gers are  conToyed  to  Interlaken  in  10  min.  Opposite  to  it,  on  the 
N.  bank,  lies  Seuhaut,  the  old  landing-place  of  the  steamers. 

The  railway  skirts  the  lake  for  a  short  distance.  To  the  1.,  at 
the  influx  of  the  Aare,  is  the  ruin  o€  Weisttnau  (p.  106).  To  the 
r.,  farther  «ii,  a  pioturesque  view  of  the  Moneh,  Eiger,  and  Jung- 
frau  is  obtained.  The  station  for  Interlaken  is  at  the  village  of 
Aarmthle,  ^4  M.  from  the  beginning  of  the  Hoheweg. 

d.     Interlaken  and  its  Enyironi. 

Hotels  aad  Penaiinw.  On  the  Hoheweg  at  InUrtuken  (in  the  direc- 
tion from  the  railway-station  to  the  Lake  of  Brienz):  "^Hotel  Ritschabd 
(PI.  1) ,  pension  8  fr. ;  •Victoria  (PI.  2) ;  beyond  it  the  small  Pension 
VoLVz  (PI.  13);  *JiJH«FBAiJ  (PI.  8),  a  new  and  tpacious  ediflee,  R.  8,  B. 
l^la,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ;  ^Schweizkrbov  (PI.  i);  '^Bslvbdebb  (PI.  6),  by  the 
Cnrsaal;  *H6tel  des  Alpes  (PI.  6);  Casino  (PI.  7)^  H6tel  Interlaken 
(PI.  8);  'HdrEL  BxAtrRiVAGB  (PI.  9),  handsomely  fitted  up,  with  river 
and  shower  baths,  gavden,  and  fine  view,  B.  from  4,  B.  IMs,  D.  4 — 6,  L. 
aad  A.  iijs  fr.  Tliese  handsome  hotels*  situated  on  the  so-called  *Hobe- 
weg**  (p.  1O6)  and  erected  within  the  last  SO — 40  years,  were  originally 
fitted  up  as  'Pensions'  only.  Kear  the  steamboat  -  quay  on  the  lake  of 
Briens  is  the  tUojgUkJ^v  LacI(P1.  10),  R.  2  fr.,  L.  ijs  fr.,  B.  1  fr.  — 
At  the  village  V}f  AarmiibU:  *(jJB£BLAMnBS  Hop  (PI.  15),  the  nearest  to  the 
station,  R.  ^^2^  D.  3,  B.  IMi,  A.  ija  fr.  ^  opposite  to  it,  ROssli  (PI.  14)^ 
WnssBs  Krbcz  (PI.  13);  ^HdTEL  Elmer  (PI.  11),  with  restaurant;  all 
these  are  seeond-class.  —  year  the  lower  bridge  over  the  Aare:  *Bbuje- 
vus  (PI.  16),  pension  5iJ2— 6i|2  fr.  —  On  the  small  island  of  S^hnaU^n 
in  the  Aare :  *H6tel  du  Pont,  or  AUe  Post  (PI.  17),  pension  from  5  fr.  — 
At  Unterseen:  *HdTEL  XJnterseen  (PI.  18);  "Bead -Site  (PI.  1&),  pension 
6—7  fk*. ;  EiOBB  (PI.  20),  on  the  road  to  Neuhaus.  —  On  the  road  from 
Aarmiihle  to  Matten  (€bteig,  Orindelwald,  Lauterbrunnen,  etc.) :  ^Deutscbkr 
Hop  (PI.  23),  pension  5  fr. ;  *  Hotel  Wyder  (PI.  21);  *  Hotel  Rbber  (PI. 
22),  small,  pension  5  fr. ;  Hotbl  Ober,  or  the  'Schlosschen'  (PI.  24) ;  *H6- 
tbl  JuMfi^FBAUBLicK  (PI.  25),  sltuMed  on  a  spur  of  the  wooded  Kieine  Rug^n 
(p.  106)  and  oommanding  an  unbroken  view ,  with  pleasant  grounds ,  and 
comfortably  fitted  up ;  baths,  whey,  etc. ;  pension  before  1st  July  and  after 
15tb  Sept.  only,  7»|2— 9  fr. ,  R.  from  4,  B.  2,  D.  5,  L.  and  A.  2,  omnibus 
11 J2  fr. —  Farther  from  Intevlaken,  beyond  the  bridge  which  crosses  the 
Aare  near  t)w  Hotel  du  Lac,  and  on  the  road  to  Briene,  is  (S|4  M.)  Cam- 
PAGNB  Felsenegg,  pensiou  S^ja  fr.,  also  a  caf^.  —  At  Bdnigen  on  the  S. 
bank  of  the  Lake  of  Brienz,  l»|a  M.  E.  of  Interlaken:  *  Pension  Vogel, 
'^PsifsioN  BtoioBN  ani  *Chalb«  du  Lao.  —  At  Stntet^erf  (3488')  recom- 
meaded  for  its  bracing  air  (6  M.  distant  by  the  carriage  -  road ;  one-horse 
15,  two  -  horse  26  fr.) :  Hotel  des  Alpes  ,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
Alps  from  the  Finsteraarhorn  to  the  Niesen,  pension  5— €  ft*.;  ija  M.  higher 


106     RouU  27.  INTERLAKEN.  Bemese 

up,  Bellbvu£.  with  beautiful  view,  pension  5 — 6  fr.  \  between  these  two, 
^Alpenrose  (4 — 5  fr.)  •,  *Pension  of  the  cur^. 

Oaraaal  on  the  Hohewee,  with  reading,  concert,  and  ball  -  rooms  etc. : 
music  daily  7 — 8  a.  m.  and  i—b  and  8 — 10  p.  m.  \  whey-cure  6^|2— 8  a.  m.  — 
The  hotel-keepers,  at  whose  expense  this  establishment  is  kept  up,  charge 
i|2  fr.  per  day  in  their  bills  for  its  use. 

Monej  Changers.  DUeonto-Catsey  near  the  Cursaal ;  Setter,  opposite  the 
I)08t-office.  —  Druggist:  Seewer. 

Oarriages,  Horses,  Omdes,  see  p.  99.    Donkeps,  i^k  fr.  per  hr. 

Post  and  Telegraph  OfAce  at  Aarmiihle,  by  the  Oberlander  Hof. 

English  Ohurch  Benrioe  in  the  old  Convent  Church. 

The  low  land  between  the  lakes  of  Thun  and  Brienz,  which 
are  2  M.  apart,  is  termed  the  ^Bodeli/  These  lakes  probably 
once  formed  a  single  sheet  of  water  only,  but  were  gradually 
separated  by  the  deposits  of  the  Lutschtne  (p.  Ill)  flowing  into 
the  Lake  of  Brienz,  and  the  Lomback  into  the  Lake  of  Thun.  These 
accumulations,  first  from  the  S.,  out  of  the  valley  of  Lauter- 
brunnen,  and  then  from  the  N.  out  of  the  Habk^ren  valley, 
account  for  the  curve  which  the  Aart  has  been  compelled  to  de- 
scribe. On  this  piece  of  land,  ^between  the  lakes',  lies  IntarlAken 
(IdGSQ,  which  with  the  adjacent  village  of  Aarmiilile  and  the 
small  town  of  Vnterscen  extends  nearly  as  far  as  the  Lake  of 
Brienz. 

The  principal  resort  of  visitors  is  the  *Hohewegj  a  handsome 
double  avenue  of  walnuts,  extending  from  the  village  of  Aarmiihle 
to  the  Upper  bridge  over  the  Aare,  and  flanked  with  large  hotels  and 
tempting  shops.  From  the  oentre  of  the  avenue,  which  is  open 
towards  the  S.,  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Lauterbrunnen-Thal  and  the 
Jungfrau  is  obtained.  On  the  N.  side  is  the  Curtaal,  a  building 
in  the  Swiss  style,  with  garden,  reading-room,  verandah,  etc.,  the 
entrance  to  which  is  between  the  Schweizerhof  and  Belvedere 
hotels  (music,  see  above).  A  little  farther,  on  the  S.  side,  rise  the 
old  religious  houses  of  Inttrldkeny  founded  in  1130,  and  suppressed 
In  1528,  surrounded  by  beautiful  walnut-trees.  The  £.  wing  of 
the  monastery  is  used  as  a  hospital  for  the  poor;  the  rest  of  the 
building,  with  the  Schloss  added  in  1750,  is  occupied  by  govern- 
ment-offices. The  nunnery  has  been  converted  into  a  prison. 
The  only  remaining  parts  of  the  church  are  the  tower  and  the 
choir.  The  latter  is  fitted  up  as  an  EngUih  Chapel.  The  old 
English  chapel  is  now  a  Rom.  Oath,  place  of  worship,  where  a 
French  sermon  is  preached  every  Sunday.  To  the  1. ,  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  Hoheweg,  the  road  to  Brienz  crosses  the  Aare  by  a 
handsome  new  bridge,  a  little  above  which,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  river,  is  the  quay  of  the  Brienz  steamboats. 

The  continuation  of  the  Hoheweg  towards  the  W.  is  formed 
by  the  busy  street  which  leads  through  the  village  of  Aatmuhlt 
(containing  with  Interlaken  1896  inhab.),  and  past  the  Post-^ffiee 
(see  above),  to  the  not  far  distant  station  of  the  Bodeli  RaUway. 
To  the  r.  are   two  bridges  (view)  crossing   the   island   of  Spiel- 


Oherlond.  INTEEtLAKBH.  37.  BouU.      107 

nullCTi  to  the  BTQill  town  or  Ttntwmn  (i860  inhab.),  which  con- 
siatB  chleOy  o[  wooden  houaeg  darkened  with  age,  with  a  large 
■qaare  and  a  wooden  chutcli.  At  AaimOhle  and  Llnteneen  there 
are  extensive  maiiubdories  of  parqueterie. 


Interlaken  attitctB  numerous  vigilorg  in  summer,  most  ot 
whom  are  (rom  Germany,  England,  and  America,  and  Is  noted 
for  its  mild  and  equable  temperature.  The  whey-cure  is  an  In- 
ducement to  some,  while  many  select  it  as  a  reatlng-placa  on 
account  of  the  migniflcent  scenery  by  which  It  Is  surrounded. 
It  is  particularly  recommended  to  those  who  have  ample  time  at 
their  dUpnsil  as  head-quarters  for  eicursions  among  the  moun- 
tains and  valleys  of  the  Oberland,  In  the  IntBTvalB  between  wblrh 
they  may  recruit  their  strength  and  enjoy  repose. 


108     BouU  27,  INTERLAKEN.  Bwnese 


Walks.  To  the  JungfmmMiek,  see  p.  105.  —  To  the 
Bngea  (2424')  3/^  hr.  A  broad  path  (from  the  Jnngfraubliek  to 
the  r.  at  a  circular  beneh) ,  provided  with  benches  and  direction- 
boards,  ascends  gradually,  affording  varying  views  of  the  Bodeli 
and  the  lakes  of  Thun  and  Brienz,  to  the  TrinkhaUe  (Restaurant), 
a  long  covered  building  with  a  terrace.  This  point  commands  the 
flirest  view  of  the  Jungfrau,  Monch,  and  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen. 
The  path  then  continues  its  circuit  of  the  hill,  and  at  a  circular 
plateau  turns  to  the  r.  The  ascent  towards  the  right  affords  the 
finest  succession  of  views.  From  this  walk  numerous  shady  and 
pleasant  by-paths  diverge,  leading  to  different  points  of  view  and 
resting-places.  The  summit  of  the  hill  (2424')  also  affords  a 
view.  About  the  beginning  of  the  century  the  hill  was  planted 
with  specimens  of  all  the  trees  which  grow  in  Switzerland. 

The  ruined  castle  of  tTnspimnen  (2  M.),  which  commands 
a  view  of  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen,  the  Jungfrau,  and  M6nch, 
is  reached  by  a  path  diverging  to  the  r.  from  the  Lauterbrunnen 
road  between  Matten  and  Wilderswyl,  beyond  the  Kleine  Rugen ; 
or  through  the  Wagntren-Schlueht,  which  opens  towards  the  road 
from  Matten  to  Thun,  a  little  way  beyond  the  Rugen  path. 
(Near  the  ruin,  the  Rigi-Oberland  restaurant  and  the  Caf£  l/n- 
spunnen.') 

To  the  *Heiiiiweh-Fliih  3^4  hr.  In  ^e  Wagneren  -  Schlucht, 
about  200  yds.  from  the  entrance,  a  narrow  path  diverges  to  the  r., 
and  ascends  in  20  min.  to  a  Restaurant ^  the  terrace  of  which  com- 
mands a  charming  *view  of  the  Bodeli  and  the  lakes  of  Thun  and 
Brienz ,  while  the  Jungfrau ,  Monch ,  and  Eiger  are  seen  from 
the  adjoining  belvedere.  —  The  way  from  the  I'rinkkalle  (see 
above)  to  the  Heimwehfluh  is  as  follows.  About  35  paces  above 
the  former  turn  to  the  1. ;  60  paces  farther  descend  to  the  r.  ] 
cross  the  road  in  the  Wagneren-Schlucht,  and  ascend  by  the  path 
through  the  wood  opposite. 

The  ruined  castle  of  WaisMnau  (2  M.),  on  an  island  in  the 
Aare  near  its  influx  into  the  lake  of  Thun  (p.  105),  is  reached 
by  the  old  road  from  Matten ,  or  by  the  road  from  IJnterseen  to 
Thun. 

In  the  opposite  direction,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Aare,  rises  the 
Hohbahl  (2247',  V2  hr.).  The  path  ascends  to  the  1.  immediately 
beyond  the  new  upper  bridge  over  the  Aarre  (the  lower  path  to 
the  1.  leads  to  the  Vogtsruhe  on  the  Aare,  a  resting-place  and 
spring).  The  pavilion  commands  a  flue  view,  which  is  still  more 
extensive  from  the  grassy  slopes  of  the  Vnte^e  Bteicki,  a  few 
hundred  paces  higher.  (The  footpath  leads  to  the  r.,  crossing  a 
brook  after  iO  min.)  From  the  HohMh)  a  path  descends  to  the 
Yogtsruhe,  skirts  the  r.  bank,  and  leads  past  a  rifle-ground  to 
the  narrow  and  stony  plain  of  Goi«2d,  between  the  Harder  and 
the  Aare,  at  the  base  ii  the  Falktrtftv^^  the  «pper  part  of  which, 


Oherland.  INTBRLAKEN.  ^7.  Route.      109 

seen  from  the  proper  point  of  tiew,  resembles  an  old  nan's  faM;e 
(the  HafdefmanmU).  On  a  baxreii  raninence  bekrw  the  Falken- 
fluh,  and  reached  by  a  path  from  the  Qoidei,  is  the  LnftbttI 
pavilion  commanding  a  beawdful  vtow  of  Inteilaken  and  the 
Jungfrau.  Serend  eavertts,  catted  the  Zwr^tich^r^  are  seen  in 
the  walls  of  the  Harder  farther  on.  From  the  Qoldei  either  re- 
turn by  UnterseeB,  or  (by  a  footpath  to  the  r.)  ascend  the  hill 
^Jm  Brand' y  en  which  jastiee  waa  anciently  administered ;  thence 
to  the  1.  in  Y4  hr.^  crossing  the  Lombach,  to  the  Eek^  a  hill 
at  the  base  of  the  Beatenbeig;  all  beautiffil  points  of  view.  — 
The  Thumh«S|^,  ascended  from  Ooldsiwyl  (1/2  ^^0'  beyond  Pel- 
senegg  on  the  road  to  Brieni  (p.  105),  also  afTords  a  panorama 
of  the  lalies  of  Thva  and  Brienz,  the  course  of  the  Aare,  and 
the  small)  sombre  lake  of  Qoklewyl,  or  FauUnste.  —  Another 
walk  may  be  taken  by  the  same  road  to  (3  M.)  Blaggtnbeirg, 
with  a  pictvresque  <^iirch  built  among  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
(view),  and  to  the  Sehadburg  (1^2  M.  farther),  situated  on  a 
spur  of  the  Harder,  an  unAnished  castle  of  the  ancient  barons 
of  Ringgenberg. 

T<^  the  *CtieMha(efti  on  the  Lake  of  Brieiiz  (p.  128)  a  steamef 
four  times  daily  in  summer.     Footpath,  see  p.  129. 

The  BeAtenhohle  (p.  105),  with  its  (in  spring)  beautiful 
waterfall ,  may  be  visited  from  Neuhau$  by  boat  (5  fr. ;  2  hrs. 
there  and  back),  passing  the  pleasant  villa  of  Leerau;  or  by  a 
foot-path  (to  the  r.  before  Neufaaus  ia  reached),  passing  the 
Kiiblisbad  and  the  village  of  Sutidlauenen  (IY2  ^'O^  &>>^  ^^  places 
skirting  the  precipice  high  above  the  lake,  but  unattended  with 
danger. 

Bonigen  (II/2  M.),  Osteig  (p.  Ill),  with  a  fine  view  from 
the  churchyard  (3  M.),  and  Qsieigw^  (3/^  ftf.  farther)  with 
the  Hohe  Sieg  (bridge)  over  th«  Lutschiiie,  are  also  pleasant 
points. 

Longer  Excurtiona.  The  *8ehyiiig«  Platte  (6791')  is  one 
of  the  finest  points  of  view  in  the  Bernese  Oberla»d.  There  is 
probably  no  other  from  which  the  valleys  of  LaUterbmnnen  and 
Grindelwakl  are  simultaneously  visible  in  their  entire  length. 
(Horse,  incl.  carriage  to  Gsteig,  17  fr).  From  Interlaken  to  (2  M.) 
Gsteig,  see  p.  ill.  Crossing  the  bridge  at  the  ehui ch  here,  and 
turning  to  the  r.,  a  good  road  leads  to  (3/«  M.)  Oateig'wyUv.  In  the 
middle  of  the  village  the  path  ascends  to  the  1. ,  and  a  little 
farther,  to  the  1.  again.  The  way  cannot  now  be  mistaken.  A 
shorter  path  from  Gsteig  (diverging  between  the  church  and  inn), 
avoiding  Gsteigwyler,  unites  with  the  above  route  after  20ml]L 
After  1/2  hr.  the  lower,  and  in  1/2  hr.  more  the  upper  slopes  of 
the  BreiUauene»-Mp  are  reached  (small  in  with  view  of  the 
lakes ;  Vi  ^'*  ^^ow  it,  20  paces  to  the  r.  of  the  traveller  ascend- 
ing the  hill,  there  is  an  excellent  spring).    A  zigiag  path  Anally 


1 10     RouU  27.         SCHYNIGE  PLATTE.  Bernese 

leads  to  the  (72  hr.)  summit  of  the  mountain  crest,  and  crosses 
its  W.  extremity  (to  the  r.  is  a  furrowed  rock  termed  the  ^Ameisen- 
liaufen'  or  ants*  hillock).  A  few  steps  now  bring  the  traveller  to 
•a  striking  scene.  The  Lauterbrunnen  valley  lies  at  his  feet;  to 
the  1.  towers  the  majestic  Jungfrau,  while  immediately  in  front 
are  dizzy  precipices ,  descending  almost  perpendicularly  to  the 
Ltitschine.  Following  the  S.  slope  of  the  crest  for  ^2  h'-?  the 
traveller  arrives  at  the  *Hotel  Alpenroae  (R.  2*/2j  B.  V/2y  A.  1  fr.). 
The  Platte,  a  crumbling  and  ^shining'  slate-rock  (whence  its  ap- 
pellation), is  about  60  paces  from  the  hotel.  The  finest  view  i» 
obtained  from  a  bend  in  the  path,  a  few  paces  before  the  sum- 
mit is  reached.  (The  traveller  should  not  omit  to  visit  the 
Jselten  Alp,  1/4  hr.  to  the  N.E. ,  a  pasture  which  supports  a 
herd  of  600  cattle,  with  their  pleasant  tinkling  bells.)  To  enjoy  a 
complete  panorama,  skirt  (to  the  1.)  the  base  of  the  Ottmihom 
(6893'),  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Platte,  and  ascend  the  somewhat 
lower  Taubenhom  (*Tubihorn',  67720,  1/2  h'-  from  the  Platte, 
whence  the  survey  of  the  lakes  is  very  fine.  The  height  above 
the  Schynige  Platte  (20  min.)  commands  a  fine  panorama  of  the 
Alps,  but  the  view  of  the  valley  is  inferior  to  that  from  the 
Platte.  Boys  to  show  the  way  or  carry  luggage  may  be  hired 
at  Gsteigwyler  (1 — 2  fr.).  New  path  to  the  Faulhom  (4  hrs.), 
see  p.  122.  Descent  from  the  Platte  by  QundUsehwand  to  Zwei" 
lutsehinen  in  2 — 2^2  hrs.;  guide  desirable,  the  path  not  being 
well  defined.  —  A  railway  from  Interlaken  to  the  Schynige 
Platte  on  the  same  system  as  the  Rigi  line  is  being  constructed. 

The  Haxdtr  (5216',  2  hrs.)  should  not  be  ascended  without 
a  guide,  as  accidents  have  occurred  from  the  dangerous  nature 
of  the  path. 

The  Habkentthal,  between  the  Harder  and  Beatenberg,  may 
may  also  be  explored.  Carriage-road  to  the  village  of  (6  M.) 
Habkem  (3501';  rustic  inn),  from  which  three  points  of  view 
may  be  visited :  (1)  the  *Oemmenalphom  (6772')  or  Quggisgrat^ 
which  is  reached  by  the  BrandlUegg ,  or  by  following  the  course 
of  the  BiiMbaeh\  in  4  hrs.  [better  still  from  Unterseen  by  the 
road  direct  to  (6  M.)  Waldegg  (3986',  a  hamlet  in  the  parish 
of  BeaUnherg),  and  thence  by  the  Oberberg  to  the  summit  in 
3  hrs.];  (2)  the  i3b*^an«  (72160,  reached  by  the  BohUgg  (56690 
and  HcigleUehfUp,  or  by  tlie  Alp  Boadlgau  and  through  the  Karr- 
holen  in  4  hrs.  [a  path  to  the  S.  of  the  Hohgant  leads  over  the 
Qrunenberg  (5095'),  a  pass  between  HabUitn  and  SehangrMU  in 
the  Emmenthal,  in  6  hrs.];  (3)  the  Augatmatihom  {Suggitkurm , 
6844'),  by  the  Bodmialp  (2  hrs.),  and  thence  to  the  summit  in 

IV2  br. 

The  H6tel  BeUevue  (37370  ^^  ^^^  Abendberg,  2  hrs.  from 
Interlaken  by  the  bridle-path,  commands  a  fine  view.  A  more 
extensive   panorama  is  enjoyed  on  the  Rothe  Eck  (62340,   the 


Oberkmd.  ZWEILtfTSCHINBN.         27.  Route.      1 1 1 

next  peak  of  this  range,  which  culminates  in  the  Morgenherghom 
(73850  above  Leiastgen.  The  path  is  at  first  that  which  leads 
from  the  Lanterbrannen  road  to  Unspunnen ;  before  reaching  the 
ruin,  however,  it  enters  the  beech-wood  to  the  r.,  and  ascends. 

The  Saxeten  Yall^  lies  between  the  Ahendberg  and  BeUen- 
hoehBt  (68700;  *o  *he  village  of  Saxeten  (36020  2V2  hrs.  (ac- 
commodation at  the  schoolmaster's);  1^2  ^'*  further  are  the  falls 
of  the  Ourben  and  Weitabach,  and  the  valley  is  beautifully  closed 
by  the  Sehwalfnem  (91370-  —  The  ^Siileok  (80130,  one  of 
the  best  points  for  stirveying  the  higher  Alps,  is  ascended  from 
Saxeten  (see  above):  by  the  Alp  Neaderen  to  Bellenkilchen  (58890 
IY2  b'* )  thence  to  the  summit  in  2  hrs.  The  ascent  is  easier 
from  Eitenfluh  (see  below):  thence  to  the  Alp  Sub  V/2,  to  the 
summit  IY2  hr.  Eisenfluh  ('Isenfluh')  itself  deserves  a  visit  on 
account  of  the  splendid  view  it  commands  of  the  Jungfrau;  be- 
sides the  path  to  it  firom  Zweilutsehinen  (see  below),  a  second 
ascends  by  the  Sausbaeh  opposite  the  Htinnenfluh. 

Interlaken  may  also  be  made  the  head-quarters  for  most  of 
the  following  excursions. 

e.    From  Interlaken  to  Lauterbnumea.    Staubbaeh. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  100. 

7>|2  M.  Carriage  there  and  back,  one-horse  11,  two-horse  20  fr.,  see 
p.  99;  one-horse  carr.  from  Interlaken  to  Zweiliitschinen  7  fr., 

The  road  first  traverses  orchards  and  meadows,  JEnd  passes 
through  (1  M.)  Matttn  (Hirsch),  where  it  divides;  that  to  the 
r.  is  the  shorter,  leading  to  WUdervwjjJ^^  fl^tii  ?^"jte"  ^ — ^  ^'^•j  ^^ 
and  (Y4  M.)  MulMMn;  that  to^ffieT^thelonger  (74  M.  more'jf 
leads  to  the  church  of  Oateig  (""Kreuz),  the  parish  church  of  the 
entire  valley  on  this  side  of  the  Aare,  including  Interlaken  itself. 
Near  (Y2  M.)  AftUtn<n,  the  roads  unite;  the  Saxetenbach  is 
crossed,  and  a  narrow  gorge  soon  entered,  through  which  the 
Liitachine  flows.  To  the  r.  rises  the  precipitous  Roihenfluh.  A 
spot  in  this  defile,  marked  by  an  inscription  on  the  rock  (^2  ^O? 
is  named  the  Boaenateiny  where  a  baron  of  Rothenfluh  is  said  to 
have  slain  his  brother. 

Near  (21/4  M.)  Zweilfitfohuien  (21590,  a  village  on  the 
r.  bank  of  the  Liitschine  (Bar^  R.  IV2)  B.  1^2  *^r-)  pension  4  fr.), 
the  valley  divides.  That  of  the  Black  Liitachine  to  the  I.  ascends 
to  (772  M.)  Grindelwald  (view  of  the  Wetterhorn  in  the  back- 
ground), that  of  the  White  Liitachine  in  a  straight  direction  to 
(2^4  M.)  Lauterbrunnen.  The  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen ,  which 
begins  at  the  Hunnenfiuh,  a  rock  resembling  a  gigantic  tower, 
is  remarkable  for  its  precipitous  walls  of  calcareous  rock,  rising  on 
both  sides,  to  a  height  of  1000 — 1500'.  It  derives  its  name 
(^Lauter  Brunnenj  i.  e.  'nothing  but  springsO  from  the  numerous 
streams  which  descend  from  the  surrounding  rocks. 


112     RouU  ^7.  LAUT£SBRnNN£H.  BerfU$t 

An  excursion  ma^  be  made  (guide  uuaecessary)  from  Zweiliitscbinen 
to  (1  hr.)  Xiaenfluh  (3i602')-  The  first  road  diverging  to  the  r.  from  the 
Lauterbrunnen  road  rapidly  ascends  the  W.  side  of  the  mountain  (after 
3  p.  m.  shade).  Relreshmente  at  the  sehooliMa8ter''8 ,  near  the  upper  foun- 
tain in  the  village.  Eisenfiuh  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Jung- 
frau,  which  is  seen  to  still  better  advantage  on  the  path  from  Eisenfluh 
to  Miirren  (3  hrs.,  p.  113).  l^ear  the  end  of  the  villttge,  this  p«tb  turns  to 
the  1. ,  leading  to  the  (Sfi  hr.)  SattOKteh ,  b«yoiid  which  is  the  only  steep 
ascent  in  the  walk  (the  traveller  from  Hurren  should,  on  leaving  the 
forest,  as  soon  as  the  bridge  across  the  brook  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley 
comes  in  sight ,  quit  the  <firect  path  and  descend  towards  tt).  For  ^t  hr. 
the  path  presents  no  dittculty,  and  the  walk  well  repagra  the  latigae;  the 
Jungfrau  and.  its  neighbours  arc  seen  to  great  advantage,  especially  on 
emerging  from  the  forest,  25  min.  from  the  inn,  as  the  Schwarze  Monch 
no  longer  intercepts  the  view.  The  path  is  generally  narrow,  and  near 
the  Sausbach,  is  sometimes  completely  oanried  awaj  hj  the  rains,  in  which 
case  the  traveller  should  cross  the  meadow  above  the  precipice  *,  guide  de- 
sirable. —  Oood  walkers  will  reach  JfHrren  in  an  afternoon,  ascend  the 
Sekiltltom  next  day,  return  to  sleep  at  Mirrreir,  visit  the  FMs  of  Iht 
SckUMdri  on  the  third  day,  and  descend  to  LautevbeuMaen  the  s«me  ev«i- 
ing  —  a  charming  three  days'  tour. 

Lftiiterbnmn«]i  (26440  (*SUmboek,  R.  2,  B.  li/j,  S.  3,  A. 
3/4  fr. ;  *H6iel  LauUrhrunnen;  *IUtd  Staubhach  ^  unprttenidng -y 
guides,  Chr.  Lauenetj  Vlr.  Lauener,  Friedr,  Orufy  Friedr.  Fudis), 
a  picturesque,  scattered  village ,  is  situated  on  both  banks  of  the 
Lfitschlne,  in  a  rocky  vaUey  V2  ^-  hroad^  iaio  whieh  in  July 
the  sun's  rays  do  not  penetrate  before  7  a.  m. ,  and  in  winter 
not  before  noon.  The  snowy  mountain-group  to  the  S.E.  is  the 
Jungfrau,  to  the  S.  the  Breithorn.  (Fall  of  the  Tiiimlenbach ,  a 
beautiful  evening  walk,  see  p.  115).  Carved  wood  good  and 
cheap  here. 

Upwards  of  20  brooks  fall  from  the  rocky  heights  !n  the  en- 
virons. The  most  Important  of  these  is  the  *Staiibbaeli  ('dust- 
brook*),  8  min.  to  the  9.  of  the  hotel.  The  brook,  which  is  never 
of  great  volume,  and  diminishes  so  much  in  summer  as  sometimes 
to  disappoint  the  expectant  traveller,  descends  in  an  unbroken 
fall  of  980'.  So  small  a  body  of  water  falling  from  such  a  height 
is  converted,  before  it  reaches  the  ground,  into  minute  particles 
of  spray,  which  the  breeze  scatters  into  fantastic  and  ever-varying 
forms.  The  cascade  should  be  visited  in  the  morning  dtrring 
sunshine ,  when  it  resembles  a  transparent  veil ,  wafted  to  and 
fro  by  the  breeze.  The  best  point  of  view  is  in  a  meadow 
immediately  in  front  of  the  fall,  to  the  1.  of  a  seat  indicated  by 
a  ffag. 


Streams  from  the  high, 
Steep,  rocky  wall 
The  purest  founts 
In  clouds  of  spray, 
Like  silver  dust, 


It  veils  the  rock 

In  rainbow  Imes ; 

And  dancing  down 

With  music  soft, 

Is  lost  in  air.  Ooethe. 


Oberland.  '  MURREN .  27 .  RouU.    113 


f.    Upper  Valley  of  Laaterbnmnen.    Mfirren.    Fall  of  the 

Sehmadribaoh. 

Contp.  Jfapy  p.  100, 

From  Lauterbrunnen  to  Miirren  2s|4  brs. ,  Trachsellauinen  2  hrs. ,  to  the 
Sebmadribach  and  back  2  hrs.,  Lauterbrunnen  2^\t  hrs.    Horses  see  p.  99. 

A  day  can  hardly  be  more  pleai^antly  spent  than  in  visiting  MUrreUy 
and  the  Fall  of  the  Schmadrihach.  It  is  a  good  day's  walk,  and,  if  extended 
to  the  Upper  Steinberg,  is  somewhat  fatiguing;  in  the  latter  case  a  guide 
(5  fr.)  may  be  engaged  at  Trachsellauinen.  If  it  is  intended  to  visit  Mtirren 
only,  which  should  be  the  principal  object,  the  excursion  from  Lauter- 
brunnen, returning  by  Stechelberg,  is  easily  accomplished  in  6  hrs.  (guide 
unnecessary).  The  route  from  Zweiliitschinen  to  Eisenfluh  (p.  112),  Miirren, 
and  Lauterbrunnen,  requires  only  1  hr.  more.  To  Miirren,  Oimmelwald, 
and  Stechelberg  a  bridle-path,  thence  to  Lauterbrunnen  (5  M.)  carriage-road. 

The  view  from  Miirren  being  seen  to  the  best  advantage  by  evening 
light,  the  traveller  may  prefer  to  proceed  first  to  the  Sebmadribach,  and 
thence  to  Miirren ,  where  (or  at  Oimmelwald)  the  night  should  be  passed. 
Between  Oimmelwald  and  Trachsellauinen  there  is  a  shorter  way  than  the 
road  by  Stechelberg  (see  p.  114).  The  ascent  from  Lauterbrunnen  to  Miirren 
and  the  first  half  of  the  descent  by  (Hmmelwald  may  be  performed  on  horse- 
back, but  the  latter  part  of  the  descent  is  rugged  and  fatiguing. 

About  200  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  Steinbock  hotel  at  Lauter- 
brunnen (2644Q  a  few  paces  S.  of  the  hotel,  the  path  to  Miirren 
(2^/4  hrs.)  leaves  the  valley  and  ascends  rapidly  to  the  r.  by  the 
brook  for  20  min.,  then  turns  to  the  r.,  and  immediately  after- 
wards to  the  1.  in  the  direction  of  the  waterfall,  below  which  it 
crosses  to  the  r.  bank.  After  crossing  two  other  brooks,  it  reaches 
the  FUUchbath^  or  Sioubhaeh  (1^4  hr.  from  Lauterbrunnen),  and 
soon  becomes  less  stedp.  Two  branches  of  the  Spiesshaeh  are  crossed, 
and  1  hr.  from  the  Staubbach  the  wood  is  quitted.  Here  is  sud- 
denly disclosed  a  magnificent  **View  of  an  amphitheatre  of  moun- 
tains and  glaciers,  the  Eiger  and  the  Monch,  the  Jungfrau  with  its 
dazzling  Silberhorn,  the  rugged  precipices  of  the  Schwarze  Monch, 
rising  precipitously  from  the  valley,  the  wall  of  the  Ebene-Fluh, 
its  conical  summit  to  the  1.  and  its  mantle  of  spotless  snow,  the 
Mittaghorn,  the  Grosshorn,  the  Breithorn,  from  which  the  Sebma- 
dribach flows,  the  Tschingelhorn ,  and  nearer,  the  Tschingelgrat 
and  the  Gspaltenhorn ;  eight  or  ten  glaciers  descend  from  these 
snowy  heights  to  the  valleys  below.  The  prospect  is  far  more 
imposing  than  from  the  Wengernalp,  although  the  view  of  the 
Jungfrau  itself  from  the  Wengernalp  is  unrivalled. 

From  this  point  the  newly  constructed  path  traverses  green 
pastures,  and  in  25  min.  reaches  the  Alpine  village  of  M&rren 
(53470  (*mtel  Murren  and  SUberhom  united,  R.  2,  B.  i% 
D.  3,  A.  1  fr.),  where  the  Wetterhom  also  becomes  visible  to 
the  1. ,  and  the  Furke  to  the  extreme  r.  (p.  115).  A  more 
extensive  view  is  obtained  from  the  Allmendhubel  (1  hr.  farther). 

The  ^Sdulthom  (9749')  may  be  ascended  in  4  hrs.  by  a  new  bridle- 
path, constructed  nearly  to  the  top,  which  is  finally  reached  by  traversing 
snow  and  slate-detritus  (guide  unnecessary  except  for  the  inexperienced). 
It  rises  to  the  W.  of  Murren,  and  commands'  an  admirable  survey  of  the 
Jungfrau,   the  queen  of  the  Bernese  Alps.    An   extensive  prospect  is  also 

Bjcdskbs,  Switzerland.   6th  Edition.  8 


114     Route  27.      SCHMADRIBACH  FALL.  Bernese 

obtained  of  the  whole  chain  as  far  as  the  Bliimlisalp,  the  Altels,  many 
of  the  mountains  of  the  Valais,  the  Weisshorn,  the  Her  the  Olace  near 
Chamouny,  the  Rigi,  the  N.  of  Switzerland,  etc.  The  traveller  is  recom- 
mended to  descend  by  the  imposing  Seilnenthal,  passing  the  ^BrUcke\  a 
charming  point  above  Gimmelwald^  a  route  longer  by  IIJ2  hr.  than  the 
direct  path,  but  far  more  interesting. 

From  Murren  the  bridle-path  descends  to  the  1. ;  10  min.,  > 
bridge  over  the  Miirrenbach;  20  min. ,  to  the  1.  between  two 
chalets;  5  min.  the  hamlet  of  Oimmelwald  (4535')  (*Zum  Schilt- 
horn,  also  a  pension);  25  min.,  bridge  over  the  SefirUuUchme, 
then  a  slight  ascent;  5  min.,  a  shelving  part  of  the  path,  un- 
pleasant in  rainy  weather.  The  Sefinliitschlne  here  forms  a  beautiful 
^cascade ,  whose  spray  is  tinged  with  rainbow  hues  in  the  mor- 
ning sun. 

A  few  min.  farther  the  path  divides:  that  to  the  1.  descends 
to  Stechelberg  (1^2  ^'*  ^'om  Murren,  and  5  M.  from  Lauter- 
brunnen) ;  that  to  the  r.  (finger-post)  to  Trachsellauinen  and  the 
falls  of  the  Schmadribach  (see  below).  In  one  hour  from  this 
point  the  chalets  of  TrachseUauinen  (41 44^)  {^ Hotel  Sckmadri- 
baehy  R.  2,  B.  i^/21  A.  and  L.  8/4  fr.)  are  reached.  The  path, 
now  more  difficult  to  trace,  continues  on  the  r.  bank.  In  10  min. 
it  passes  a  deserted  silver-foundry,  skirts  a  projecting  mass  of 
rock  to  the  r.,  and  ascends  the  Nadla;  it  next  passes  the  chalets 
(Y2  lif •)  of  tlie  Lower  Steinberg ,  and  crosses  the  impetuous, 
glacier-fed  Schmadribach  and  Thalbach;  ascending  the  pasture  on 
the  r.  bank,  it  passes  a  waterfall ;  the  rugged  Holdri  is  next  mounted, 
in  Y2  ^'-  *^®  chalet  of  Legger  is  reached  (1^2  ^^'  from  Trachsel- 
lauinen), and  the  *Fall  of  the  Solimadxibaoh  comes  in  sight.  The 
water,  emerging  from  the  glacier  in  considerable  volume,  is  hurled 
to  a  depth  of  200',  and,  ascending  in  vapour,  forms  a  huge  arch. 
The  stream  must  be  crossed  higher  up  by  the  traveller  who  desires 
to  approach  nearer  the  waterfall,  but  this  hardly  repays  the  loss 
of  time.  The  loneliness  of  the  locality,  the  imposing  character  of 
the  cascade,  and  the  magnificent  panorama  of  mountains  and  gla- 
ciers, combine  to  present  a  very  impressive  scene.  The  azure 
ice  of  the  Tschingel  Gletscher  rises  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  beyond 
which  tower  the  grotesque  Taehingelhomer  (11,745').  The  view 
is  more  extensive  from  the  chalet  of  the  Obere  Steinberg  (5794'), 
which  is  seen  high  up  to  the  r.  on  the  pastures  (ascent  of  l*/2  ^^• 
from  TrachseUauinen).  Coffee,  milk,  and  a  bed  of  hay  may  be 
had;  charges  high.  The  traveller  is  recommended  to  go  from 
Trachsellauinen  to  the  Obere  Steinberg,  rather  than  to  the. 
Schmadri  Fall,    as  it  commands  a  beautiful  view,   including  the 

waterfall  itself.  ^ 

From  the  Steinberg  to  Oastern  and  Kandersteg  by  the  Tidiingel  Qlader, 
a  most  interesting  glacier-excursion,  see  p.  147. 

From  Trachsellauinen  to  Lauterbrunnen  is  a  walk  of  2^2  l^^s. ; 

25  min.,    bridge  over  the  Lutschiney    which  dashes  wildly  down 

its  rocky  bed ;    V4  ^^-  ?    bridge  of  Stechelherg  (3002' ;   path  from 


Obertand.  TVRKt.  27.  RouU.      115 

Murren  see  above),  where  the  bottom  of  the  valley  is  reached. 
Near  (^4  hr.)  Matten  the  Mutrmbach  is  seen  trickling  down  the 
cliff  to  the  1.  From  the  (Vi  hr.)  Domige  Brucke  a  stony  road 
leads  to  Lauterbrunnen ,  which  the  pedestrian  may  avoid  by 
taking  the  path  to  the  r.  in  the  same  direction,  traversing  pas- 
tures; 10  min.,  waterfall  of  the  Rosmbaeh,  issuing  from  a  Ussnre 
in  the  rock.  About  5  min.  from  the  path  is  the  ^FcUl  of  (^ 
!IVt2mi«n6ae/k,  fed  by  the  glaciers  of  the  Jungfrau  (p.  117),  rushing 
impetuously  from  a  narrow  chasm,  and  forming  a  cascade  of  great 
volume,  but  inconsiderable  height  (3  M.  from  Lauterbrunnen). 
The  best  point  of  view  is  the  bridge  n/2  ^^Oj  which  is  reached 
by  a  path  on  the  r.  bank.  A  few  hours  leisure  at  Lauterbrunnen 
cannot  be  better  spent  than  in  visiting  this  spot. 

From  Lauterbnmnen  by  the  Btfinenfurke  to  Rtichenbach  in  the 
Kienihal ,  or  again  leaving  the  Kienthal ,  cross  the  DUndtn(frat  to  Sander- 
steg.  The  path  mentioned  at  pp.  114,  147  traverses  the  Seflnenthal :  from 
Lauterbrunnen  to  the  Furke  o^jz  hrs.,  down  to  the  valley  2  hrs.,  to  the 
Diindengrat  Sijs  hrs.,  to  the  Oeschlnenthal  2  hrs.,  Kandersteg  li)s  hr.;.  al- 
together a  rugged  walk  of  15—16  hrs.,  the  most  fatiguing  portion  being 
the  passage  from  the  Kienthal  over  the  Diindengrat  to  Kandersteg ,  which 
is  suitable  for  experienced  climbers  only.  The  night  may,  if  necessary, 
be  passed  in  one  of  the  chalets  of  the  Kienthal.  Good  guide  necessary 
(comp.  p.  112).  The  route  presents  a  series  of  the  grandest  views,  especially 
at  the  beginning.  It  leads  to  Hiirren  (p.  113)  and  thence  to  the  Furke 
(85667,  a  deep  cleft  between  the  Oroise  Hundshom  (9607')  and  the  buttlassen 
(10,463') i  in  ascending,  keep  to  the  1.  and  cross  a  stony  slope  in  order  to 
reach  the  opening  in  the  rock.  Then  descend  to  the  r.  (fine  view  of  the 
Bliimlisalp)  by  the  chalets  of  the  Ddrrenberg  (6575')  and  the  Steinen-Alp 
(4921')  to  the  large  TschingelAlp  (3816')  in  the  Kienthal,  whence  a  narrow 
road  leads  by  Kienthal  to  (3  hrs.)  Reichenbaeh  (p.  145).  In  descending  from 
the  Furke  to  the  Kienthal  (the  dangerous  path  to  the  1.,  which  leads  to 
the  Diindengrat  over  the  Qamchi  QlacieVy  must  be  avoided)  the  Bliimlisalp 
(or  Frau)  appears  in  all  its  brilliant  whiteness.  The  traveller,  if  fatigued, 
may  proceed  thither ,  but  if  strength  permits  he  may ,  after  resting  at  the 
chsJets  of  the  DUrrenberg  ^  cross  the  Diindengrat  to  Kandersteg  as  follows. 
Descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Kienbach  as  far  as  the  Qamchi  Qtaciery 
where  the  brook  rises ,  cross  the  brook ,  ascend  a  steep  graissy  slope ,  and 
beyond  it  traverse  fielas  of  snow  and  ice.  The  summit  of  the  Dftadoifrat 
iOesehinengraty  8874'),  opposite  the  snow-line  of  the  Bliimlisalp,  commands 
a  superb  view  of  the  latter  with  its  rounded  form  of  dazzling  white ,  and 
its  imposing  glacier*,  to  the  r.  are  the  Doldenhom  and  numerous  other 
peaks;  in  the  plain  lies  the  Lake  of  Thun.  Then  descend  the  slope  by  a 
ru^ed  path  to  the  chalets  of  the  Oeschinen-Alp  (6420') ,  and  next  by  stone 
steps  to  the  Oeschinen- See  (5210')  and  Kandersteg  (SSay,  see  p.  147). 

From  Lauterbrunnen  by  the  WetterlUcke  and  the  Petertgrat  to 
the  LdUehenthal^  see  p.  250. 

From  Lauterbrunnen  by  the  Lauinenthor  to  the  Eggischhorn ^  a  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous  expedition  (19  hrs.),  accomplished  in  1860  by  Prof.  Tyn- 
dall  and  Mr.  Hawkins.  The  wild  and  desolate  Roththal  is  traversed ,  and 
the  vast  ridge  (12,(XX)'),  connecting  the  Jungfrau  with  the  Qlttteherhorny 
crossed  to  the  Great  Aletschjim  and  the  Eggitchhom  (p.  141). 

g.    From  Lanterbrunnen  to  Orindelwald.    Wengemalp. 

Jungftau. 

Comp.  Map.,  p.  100. 

Bridle-path  over  the  Wengemalp  6i|4  hrs. :  from  Lauterbrunnen  to  the 
Wengemalp  3  (descent  2),  Little  Scheideck  •|4  (descent  i|v),  (Orindelwald 

8* 


116     RouU  27.  WENGERNALP.  Bemeae 

2i|8  hrs.  (aacent  31)2).  Diligence  from  Interlaken  to  Grindelwald  twice  daily 
(in  1872  at'  7  a.  m.  and  2.  15  p.  m.)>  Horses  and  carriages,  see  p.  99.  The 
ascent  may  be  made  on  horseback,  either  from  Lauterbrunnen  or  Grindel- 
wald, but  in  descending  the  traveller  should  dismount  at  the  steep  and 
stony  declivity  near  Grindelwald,  as  well  as  at  the  last  precipitous  descent 
into  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen.  —  Guide  unnecessary.  Chaise-lt-porteurs 
at  Lauterbrunnen  and  Grindelwald. 

Two  routes  lead  to  Grindelwald.  The  first,  a  carriage-road 
through  the  yalley  of  the  White  Liitsch^ne  to  Zweilutschlnen, 
and  ascending  thence  in  the  valley  of  the  Black  Lutschine  (distance 
about  12  M.,  a  drive  of  21/2  hrs.,  see  p.  99),  will  be  chosen  by 
travellers  who  are  unable  to  walk  or  ride,  or  who  are  already 
familiar  with  the  charms  of  the  Jungfrau  and  the  bracing  moun- 
tain air.  Good  walkers,  if  not  pressed  for  time,  should  take  the 
other  route,  a  footpath  over  the  Wengemalp  and  the  Little  Schei- 
deck.  It  is  at  first  somewhat  laborious,  from  the  rapidity  of  the 
ascent ,  but  well  repays  the  fatigue ,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
attractive  and  frequented  routes  in  Switzerland. 

Cross  the  Lutschine  near  the  church  of  Lauterbrunnen,  and 
follow  the  first  wide  path  ascending  to  the  r.  (3  min.  from  the 
bridge).  After  a  steep  ascent  of  1  hr.  some  houses  of  the  village 
of  Wengen  (Pension  Wengen ;  1/4  hr.  beyond  it,  H6tel  Mittaghorn) 
are  reached;  view  of  the  Gspaltenhorn,  Tschlngelhorn,  Breithorn, 
Schwarze  Monch,  Jungfrau,  the  glacier  and  waterfall  of  Schmadri, 
and  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen.  About  ^4  ^^-  &bove  the  second 
inn ,  keep  to  the  r. ;  the  path  now  becomes  more  level ,  as- 
cending a  gently  sloping  pasture,  to  which  the  name  "IXTengem- 
alp  properly  belongs.  Far  below  lies  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen, 
with  the  Staubbach,  reduced  to  a  mere  thread,  its  upper  fall, 
and  the  windings  preparatory  to  its  final  leap. 

The  path  enters  a  pine  wood  (1  hr.  from  the  inn  last  men- 
tioned), through  which  It  leads  for  ^4  ^^-  ^^  emerging  from 
the  wood  by  a  gate,  leave  the  broad  track,  and  ascend  a  steep 
path  to  the  1.  occasionally  passing  through  wood;  35  min.  (from 
the  gate),  a  second  gate,  where  the  path  leads  to  the  r.,  and  in 
10  min.  more  the  *H6tcl  de  la  Jungfrau  (6184')  is  reached  (D. 
4  fr. ;  carved  wood  sold  by  Brugger-Zurfluh).  The  pedestrian 
coming  in  the  opposite  direction  must  go  through  the  gate,  and 
on  no  account  descend  by  the  enclosure.  Travellers  from  Lauter- 
brunnen and  Grindelwald  generally  halt  here,  or  at  the  Scheideck 
(p.  117),  between  10  and  12  o'clock,  producing  a  Babel  of  tongues 
and  often  severely  taxing  the  energy  of  the  innkeepers.  The 
Oemshugel  affords  a  fine  survey  of  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunnen. 

The  *Jimgfran  (13,671'),  with  her  dazzling  shroud  of  eternal 
snow,  overtopped  by  the  SUberhom  (12,156')  to  the  r.,  and  the 
Schnechom  (11,204Q  to  the  1.,  now  appears  in  all  her  majesty.  The 
proportions  of  the  mountain  are  so  gigantic,  that  the  eye  in  vain 
attempts  to  estimate  them,  and  distance  seems  annihilated  by 
their  vastuess.     The  summits  and  higher  slopes  are   covered  with 


Oberland.  LITTLE  SCHEIDEGK.       27.  RouU.      117 

snow  of  brilliant  purity,  whil«  the  lower  and  less  precipitous 
parts  present  a  boundless  expanse  of  snow  and  glacier.  (The 
highest  peak,  which  is  farther  to  the  S.,  is  yisible  neither  from 
this  spot,  nor  from  Lauterbrunnen.)  The  base  of  the  mountain, 
as  far  as  it  is  seen,  is  precipitous. 

ATalanehet.  These  terrible  and  magniflcent  phenomena  are  cauaed  by 
the  accumiilation  of  va^t  masses  of  snow  and  ice  on  the  upper  parts  of  the 
mountains,  from  which,  as  the  warmer  season  advances,  they  slide  off  by 
their  own  weight  with  amazing  velocity.  On  the  Wengernalp  the  traveller 
will  have  an  opportunity  of  beholding  the  ice  avalanche^  or  niU  of  portions 
of  the  glacier  detached  under  the  influence  of  the  sttmmer''8  sun.  Seen 
from  a  distance  the  falling  ice,  breaking  into  fragments  in  its  descent,  re- 
sembles a  rushing  cataract,  and  is  accompanied  by  a  noise  like  thunder. 
These  avalanches  are  most  numerous  shortly  after  noon,  when  the  sun 
exercises  its  greatest  power.  Except  that  the  solemn  stillness  which 
reigns  in  these  desolate  regions  is  interrupted  by  the  echoing  thunders  of  the 
falling  masses,  the  spectacle  can  hardly  be  called  imposing,  and  often 
falls  short  of  the  expectation.  The  traveller,  however,  is  reminded  that 
the  apparently  insignificant  white  cascade  often  consists  of  hundreds  of 
tons  of  ice,  capable  of  sweeping  away  forests  and  whole  villages,  but 
fortunately  descending  into  the  uninhabited  TrUmlelen- That  y  a  deep  gorge 
belween  the  Jungfrau  and  the  Wengernalp. 

Since  1811,  when  the  summit  of  the  Jimgfrau  was  reached  for  the  first 
time  by  the  two  Meiftrt  of  Aarau,  the  ascent  has  been  frequently  accom- 
plished, even  by  ladies.  The  expedition  is  extremely  fatiguing,  but  un- 
attended with  danger  to  experienced  mountaineers  accompanied  by  good 
guides.  The  SUherhom.  once  deemed  inaccessible,  was  ascended  for  the 
first  time,  on  4th  Aug.,  1863,  by  Ed.  v.  PelUnberg  and  the  Editor,  pioneered 
by  the  guides  P.  Michel,  H.  Baumann,  and  P.  Inabnit  of  Orindelwald.  The 
party  started  from  the  Bellevue  Hotel  (see  below)  at  4  a.m.,  traversed 
the  Eiger  and  Honch  (or  Guggi)  Glaciers,  ascended  the  Schneehorn  to  the  r., 
and  crossing  the  K.  slope  of  the  Jungfrau,  attained  the  summit  of  the 
Silberhom  at  4.30  p.m.  The  following  night  was  passed  on  the  preci- 
pitous E.  icy  slope  of  the  Schneehorn ,  not  one  of  the  party  venturing  to 
close  an  eye.    (See  Jahrbuch  des  Schweixer  AlpenclubSj  1864.) 

The  ^'Lanberhom  (812(X),  a  peak  rising  from  the  ridge  running  to  the 
"S.  of  the  Scheideck,  may  be  reached  thence  in  1  hr.  \  or  from  the  Wen- 
gernalp in  lifa  hr.  (descent  1  hr.).  This  ascent  is  chiefly  recommended  to 
those  who  have  not  visited  the  Faulhom.  View  extensive  and  imposing. 
Travellers  coming  from  Grindelwald  add  only  l^js  hr.  to  their  walk  by 
taking  the  route  from  the  Scheideck  to  the  Hdtel  Jungfrau  over  the  Lauber- 
hom.  Guide  hardly  necessary.  —  The  Tsehttffgen  (8410^),  which  rises  to 
the  N.  nf  the  Lauberhom,  commands  a  more  extensive,  but  less  picturesque 
view.  Ascent  more  fatiguing.  —  The  traveller  disposed  to  extend  his  walk 
still  farther  may  proceed  from  the  Lauberhom  along  the  £.  slope  of  the 
Tschuggen  to  the  *lf&nnlieheny  the  N.  summit  of  this  ridge  (comp.  p.  119). 
In  this  case  the  walk  from  Lauterbrunnen  to  Grindelwald  (by  the  Wengem- 
iJp,  Lauberhom,  and  Mannlichen)  will  occupy  10 — 11  hrs. 

The  little  Sohaideeky  LauterhrunnenSeheideek,  or  Wengem^ 

Scheideck  (6788';  (Hdtel  BeUevue,  R.  21/2,  B.  IV2,  S.  2,  A.  8/^ 

fr. ;    wood- carver  Jean  ZurfluK),   the   culminating  point   of  the 

pass,    is   attained   after  a  gradual  ascent    of    8/4  hr.    from   the 

H6tel    Jungfrau.      This   abrupt  ridge  affords   a   striking  view  of 

the  valley  of  Grindelwald,  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  mountains 

which  separate  it  from  the  Lake  of  Brienz  (to  the  extreme  1.  is 

the  blunt  cone  of  the  Faulhorn  with  its  inn),  and  on  the  S.  by 

the  giants  of  the  Oberland,  the  Monch  ri3,4680,  Eiger  (13,041'), 

and  the  more  distant  Schreekhom  (13,386').     The  Finster-Aarhom 


118     Route  27.  GRINDELWALD.  Bernese 

(14,026'),  the  highest  mountain  of  the  Bernese  Alps,  is  not  visible. 
In  the  extreme  distance  to  the  £.  rise  the  Sustenhomer,  The 
glaciers  which  encircle  these  mountains  and  fill  the  surrounding 
valleys  cover  an  area  of  360  sq.  M. ,  the  sixth  part  of  all  the 
glaciers  of  the  Alps,  and  form  the  grandest  uninterrupted  sea  of 
ice  among  these  mountains. 

The  path  to  Grindelwald  is  bleak,  but  not  uninteresting. 
Scattered  fragments  of  rocks  afford  grim  evidence  of  land-slips 
and  avalanches,  and  pasture-land  is  rare.  At  the  chalets  of 
(^4  hr.)  Bustigeln  (6119')  refreshments  may  be  procured.  Then 
(1  hr.)  the  H6tel  et  Pension  des  Alpes  (5285')  with  whey-cure, 
situated  on  a  commanding  slope.  The  path  then  leads  through 
wood  for  a  short  distance.  About  half-way  between  the  H6tel 
des  Alpes  and  Grindelwald  (1  hr.  from  the  former),  leave  the 
bridle-path,  which  leads  straight  into  a  hollow,  and  take  the 
path  to  the  1.,  descending  past  enclosed  meadows  and  scattered 
cottages  to  the  (20  min.)  bridge  over  the  Lutschtie.  The  road 
then  gradually  ascends  to  Grindelwald,  1^4  M.  di.tant.  (Travel- 
lers from  Grindelwald  to  the  Wengernalp  ascend  to  the  r.  at  the 
bridge.) 

The  Footpath  from  the  Little  Scheideck  io  Grindelwald  is  pleasanter 
than  the  bridle-path  just  described.  It  skirts  the  1.  bank  of  the  Wergis- 
IhcUbachy  commanding  a  series  of  picturesque  views,  and  leads  for  1  hr. 
through  pine-forest.    Guide  desirable. 

Grindelwald  (3773').  ^Adleb,  with  a  pleasant  garden,  B.  3,  B.  lija, 
y  D.  5,  L.  and  A.  2  fr.  5  *HotelEigeb,  opposite  the  lower  glacier,  similar 
charges i  Bab-,  *H6tel  DuTSfHCffiB^t  the  W.  end  of  the  village,  R.  2»|2,  B. 
l^ja,  A.  1  fr. ;  *Pen8ion  Buboemeb,  E.  2,  B.  I'jj  fr. ;  *PEHgioN  Schomk^ 
small,  with  baths.  —  The  Guides  of  Grindelwald  enjoy  &  111^11  P^pimllli 
The  Editor  can  recommend  from  his  own  experience:  Pet.  and  Christen 
Michel^  Pet.  Jnabnitj  Joh.  Baumanriy  and  Pet.  Bohren.  —  Chr.  Almer^  Pet. 
Fgger^  Ulrich  Kavfmann^  Pet.  Rvbi^  and  Pet.  Bawnann^  are  also  trust*^ 
worthy.  —  Guide  to  the  glacier  (unnecessary)  3  fr.  \  chair  6  fr.  —  Carriages 
and  Horses^  see  p.  99. 

This  village  (3135  inhab.),  which  consists  of  wooden  houses 
scattered  over  the  valley,  affords  excellent  headquarters  to 
mountaineers.  The  climate  is  cold,  but  cherries,  which  yield 
excellent  Kirschwasser,  and  other  kinds  of  fruit,  are  successfully 
cultivated.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  herdsmen.  The  pastures 
of  the  vaUey,  which  is  12  M.  long  and  4  M.  wide,  support  6000 
head  of  cattle. 

Grindelwald  owes  much  of  its  reputation  to  its  two  Olaoieri 
(comp.  Introd.  XIV),  which  descend  far  into  the  valley,  and  are 
easy  of  access;  but  they  are  very  inferior  to  the  glacier  of  the 
Rhone  and  many  others  in  Switzerland,  especially  as  they  have 
considerably  decreased  of  late  years.  Three  gigantic  mountains 
bound  the  valley  on  the  S.,  the  Eiger  (13,041'),  the  Mettenherg 
(Mittelberg,  10,197')  which  forms  the  base  of  the  Schreckhorn, 
and  the  Wetterhom  (12,165')  at  the  head  of  the  valley.  The 
two  glaciers  lie  between  these  mountains  and  form  the  source  of 


Oberland.  GRINDELWALD.  27.  Route.      119 

the  Black  Liitschtne.  The  upper  glacier  is  the  more  interesting, 
and  lies  nearer  the  bridle-path  to  Meiringen  than  the  other. 

The  Upper  OUteier  (3852'  at  the  base),  1  hr.  to  the  £.  of  Grin- 
delwald,  and  10  min.  to  the  r.  of  the  lower  bridle-path  to  the  Great 
Scheideck  (which  should  be  quitted  at  the  fourth  bridge,  but  not  by 
the  small  footpath  immediately  above  it),  is  the  more  remarkable ; 
the  ice  is  pur^r  than  that  of  the  lower  glacier,  and  the  openings 
at  its  base  more  considerable,  especially  on  the  E.  side  (V2  ^'* 
for  the  repair  of  the  path;  small  restaurant).  The  beautiful 
clearness  of  the  ice  is  best  seen  in  the  grotto  artificially  hewn 
in  the  glacier. 

The  Lower  Glacier  (3Si7'  at  the  base),  40  min.  to  the  S.  of 
Grindelwald,  sometimes  termed  the  Little  Glacier ^  is  four  times 
larger  than  the  other.  The  upper  part  is  known  as  the  Grindel- 
walder  Viescher  Glacier  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Glacier  of 
Viesch  in  the  Valais).  The  moraines  thrust  before  the  glacier 
(comp.  Introd.  XIY)  almost  entirely  exclude  the  view  from  its 
base.  A  visit  should  therefore  be  paid  to  the  Eiimeer  ('sea  of 
ice'),  a  name  given,  as  at  Ghamouny  (p.  217),  to  the  large 
upper  basin  in  which  the  glacier  is  formed  before  it  descends  into 
the  valley.  The  path  on  the  left  slope  is  well  kept  and  free 
from  danger.  In  2  hrs.  (IY2  of  which  is  practicable  on  horse- 
back) the  chalet  on  the  Baregg  (5412')  is  reached  (refreshments 
and  mattresses),  whence  a  steep  flight  of  steps  descends  to  the 
glacier  (Y2  f^O*  ^  remarkable  view  is  obtained  here  of  the  most 
fantastic  minarets,  or  'ice-needles.' 

A  *Olaeier  Expedition,  unattended  with  difficulty,  is  recom- 
mended to  the  traveller  who  desires  to  become  more  familiar  with  these 
icy  regions.  Cross  (1  hr.)  the  Eismeer  to  the  chalet  of  ZAunbaxir  (6076'), 
rvdely  constructed  of  stone  and  surrounded  by  pasture,  the  last  human 
habitation  amongst  the  giants  of  the  Bernese  Alps.  Vegetation  soon  disap- 
pears. On  every  side  tower  huge  masses  of  ice  of  the  wildest  and  grandest 
character,  and  the  imposing  summits  of  the  Eiger,  Schreckhom,  Viescher- 
hom,  etc.,  bound  the  view,  forming  a  panorama  rivalling  that  from  the 
Montanvert  at  Chamouny.  A  guide  is  necessary  here,  especially  for  the 
passage  of  the  mai^ins  of  the  glacier.  The  descent  from  the  chalet  to 
Grindelwald  occupies  3  hrs.  If  the  excursion  is  not  extended  beyond  the 
iiud41e  of  the  .Eismeer  (sufficiently  far),  the  whole  may  be  accomplished 
in  5  hrs.  —  The  ascent  of  the  ZiUenberghom  (7687'),  I'U  hr.  from  the 
Zasenberg,  is  recommended  to  good  climbers,  as  it  commands  a  magnificent 
glacier  view.  An  interesting,  though  somewhat  fatiguing  expedition  may 
be  made  from  the  Zasenberg  to  the  Eigerhdhle^  a  grotto  visible  from  the 
Zasenberg  (2  hrs.,  descent  to  the  Eismeer  2  hrs.  more)*,  guide  necessary, 
but  no  danger. 

The  *Kett«nb6rg  (10,197')  is  recommended  to  the  notice  of  mountaineers 
(ascent  laborious,  6  hrs. ;  guide  10  fr.).  The  view  of  the  Schreckhom, 
which  rises  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  the  Finsteraarhom  is  peenliarly 
imposing,  and  a  striking  survey  is  obtained  of  the  Eismeer  and  the  valley 
of  Grindelwald. 

The  ^KAmilicheB  (7694'),  the  extreme  K.  spur  of  the  Wengernalp,  is 
ascended  from  Grindelwald  with  moderate  ease  in  4 — 5  hrs.  (horse  15  fr.  *, 
guide  unnecessary,  but  desirable  if  the  traveller  intends  to  descend  to 
Grindelwald  by  the  pleasant  forest-path  on  the  I.  bank  of  the  Wergisthal- 
bach  \  comp.  p.  118).    After  the  Lutschine  is  crossed,  the  path  diverges  to 


120     BouU  27,  FAULHORN.  Bernese 

the  r.  from  of  the  path  to  the  Scheideck,  and  gradually  ascends  the  Itra- 
men  Alp.  Owing  to  its  isolated  position,  it  commands  an  admirable  pano- 
rama. It  may  also  be  attained  from  the  Scheideck  in  8,  or  from  Wengen 
(p.  116)  in  21/2  hrs.  (guide  desirable,  ascent  very  steep,  and  no  regular  path). 
About  20  min.  below  the  summit,  on  the  depression  between  the  Mann- 
lichen  and  Tichuggtn  (8278'),  is  a  small  inn  with  a  few  beds. 

To  the  G  rims  el  Hospice  (p.  1S6)  a  grand  and  interesting,  but  diffl- 
cult  pass  leads  in  15  hrs.  (10  hrs.  on  snow  and  ice  \  guide  S5  fr.),  past 
the  Schreckhom,  and  over  the  *8trahlenr  (10,994'),  the  saddle  between  the 
Oross-Lauteraarhorn  and  Strahlegghorner,  and  descending  the  Strahlegg, 
Finsteraar,  and  Unter-Aar  glaciers.  The  night  is  passed  at  the  BUregg 
(see  above).    Two  guides  advisable. 

The  Lauteraaxjoch  (10,364^  is  another  magnificent,  but  very  fatiguing 
pass.  The  night  must  be  passed  at  the  Oleckstein  Hut  (p.  123);  then  an 
ascent  of  6  hrs-  on  the  ice  to  the  culminating  point;  descent  precipitous 
and  difficult;  finally  across  the  Lauteraar-Glacier  to  the  (5  hrs.)  DoUfuss- 
Paviliofit  and  the  (3  hrs.)  Grimsel.  Two  able  guides  indispensable  (comp. 
p.  118). 

Passes  from  Grindelteald  to  the  Eggisehhorn  (p.  141)  for 
thoroughly  experienced  mountaineers  only,  with  trustworthy  guides.  The 
Jungfrau-Joch  (ll.GdCK).  between  the  Jungfrau  and  Monch,  traversed  for 
the  first  time  in  1862,  rrom  the  Wengernalp  to  the  Eggisehhorn  in  16M2 
hrs.,  a  difficult  but  highly  interesting  expedition.  -^  The  KSBeha-Jocli 
(12,()96'))  between  the  Monch  and  Viescherhomer,  15  hrs.  from  Grindel- 
wald  to  the  inn.  The  route  ascends  the  Lower  Grindelwald  Glacier  and 
the  Grindelwalder  Viescher  Glacier  to  the  top  of  the  pass,  «nd  then  de- 
scends the  Ewig-Schneefeld  to  the  Aletsch  Glacier  and  Eggisehhorn.  On 
the  *■  Bergli,'  1  hr.  below  the  pass,  is  a  new  hut  of  the  Swiss  Alpine  Club. 
From  the  Wengernalp  to  the  Monchsjoch  by  the  Sicerjoch  (12,1490i  between 
the  Eiger  and  Monch  (22  hrs.  from  the  Wengernalp  to  the  Eggisehhorn), 
extremely  difficult  and  hazardous.  —  The  'Vieaeherjoch  (11,701/),  between 
the  Kleine  and  Grusse  Viescherhom,  22  hrs.  from  Grindelwald  to  the 
Eggisehhorn,  is  very  rarely  traversed,  being  difficult  and  deficient  in 
interest. 

h.    The  Fanlhom. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  100. 

From  Grindelwald  to  the  Faulhom  4*(4  (descent  3)  hrs. ;  from  the  Faul- 
hom  to  the  Scheideck  3  (ascent  4)  hrs. ;  from  the  Scheideck  to  the  Baths 
of  Bosenlaui  1*1^  (ascent  2i(s)  hrs. ;  f^m  the  Scheideck  to  Grindelwald 
2  (ascent  3)  hrs.  —  Guide  unnecessary  for  moderately  experienced  pedes- 
trians; at  Grindelwald  10  fr.  are  demanded,  but  5  fr.  is  ample  remu- 
neration. Chair-carriers  6  fr.  each ;  if  they  pass  the  night  on  the  top,  12  fr. 
(three  are  generally  sufficient;  a  bargain  should  be  made  beforehand). 
Horses  see  p.  99.  Inn  on  the  summit.  Bed  S—i  fr.,  D.  or  S.  4,  B.  2,  A. 
1,  L.  1  fr.  If  ladies  are  of  the  party,  beds  should  be  ordered  previously. 
A  single  traveller  is  often  required  to  share  his  room  with  another. 

The  ♦Panlhorn  (8803';  Rigl5905';  Niesen  7762'),  rising  between 
the  Lake  of  Brienz  and  the  valley  of  Grindelwald,  composed  of 
black,  friable,  calcareous  schist  (faul  s=b  'rotten^.,  whence  probably 
its  name),  is  a  very  favourite  point  of  view,  as  it  commands 
&n  admirable  survey  of  the  giants  of  the  Bernese  Oberland  (see 
Panorama).  To  the  N.  lies  the  Lake  of  Brienz,  with  its  sur- 
rounding mountains,  from  the  Augstmatthorn  to  the  Rothhorn, 
and  part  of  the  Lake  of  Thun,  with  the  Niesen  and  Stock- 
horn,  is  also  visible;  to  the  N.E.,  parts  of  the  lakes  of  Lucerne 
and  Zug,  with  Pilatus  and  the  Rigi;  then  the  lakes  of  Morat 
and  Neuchatel.     The  prospect  does  not,  however,  like  that  from 


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Oherland.  FAULHORN.         *       27.  Route.      121 

the  Rigi,  comprise  the  lower  mountains  of  N.  Switzerland,  which 
so  greatly  enhance  the  heauty  of  the  scene. 

The  Path  from  Orindelwald  to  the  Faulhorn  leads 
for  3/4  hr.  past  enclosed  meadows  and  detached  houses.  The 
ascent  begins  at  the  Bear  Hotel  (p.  118^:  after  5  min.,  to  the  r. ; 
10  min.,  at  a  cross-way,  straight  on;  Omin.,  to  the  r. ;  2  min.|^ 
to  the  1.  past  a  cottage,  after  which  the  direction  is  generally 
towards  the  £.  The  footpath  soon  unites  with  the  bridle-path; 
1/2  hr.  a  gate ,  beyond  which  a  wood  is  entered ;  on  emerging 
from  it  (10  min.)  there  is  a  steep  ascent,  at  the  top  of  which 
the  footpath  turns  to  the  1.  (the  bridle-path  to  the  r.);  ^4  hr., 
the  ErtichfM  meadow,  a  large  enclosed  pasture  with  several 
chalets,  near  the  middle  of  which  the  path  enters  the  wood  to 
the  1.;  1/4  ^^-y  straight  on,  not  to  the  1.;  20  min.,  the  path 
divides  (those  who  are  descending  take  the  path  here  to  the  1.); 
a  little  farther,  a  gate;  ^4  ^'-  Ro^talp  (H6tel  Alpenrose),  mag- 
nificent view.  This  point  is  nearly  half-way,  the  other  half  is  less 
fatiguing.  In  20  min.  a  small  waterfall  of  the  MuhUhaeh  is  seen 
to  the  1.,  near  which  are  the  chalets  of  the  Baehalp  (5649').  The 
only  good  drinking-water  on  the  path  issues  abundantly  from 
the  rock,  10  min.  further.  Then  ^/^  hr.  of  moderate  ascent  to 
the  BachtUpseey  situated  in  a  stony  basin,  bounded  on  the  1.  by 
the  Roihihom  (9052'),  on  the  farther  side  by  the  Simdihom 
(9029'),  and  on  the  r.  by  the  RitzligratU  (8281').  (Near  the 
stone  hut  the  path  diverges  to  the  1.  for  travellers  descending 
to  the  Scheideck,  see  below.)  The  Faulhorn  is  now  in  view. 
The  path,  which  is  indicated  by  stakes  for  the  guidance  of  the 
traveller  in  fog  or  snow,  ascends  rapidly  for  nearly  1  hr.  over 
crumbling  slate  and  calcareous  rock.  Another  stone  hut  is 
passed,  the  pastures  at  the  foot  of  the  Faulhorn  are  traversed, 
and  a   zigzag  path  leads  in   Ui  hr.  more  to  the  top.     The  inn 

(p.  120)  lies  on  the  S.  side,  20'  below  the  summit. 

Another  path  leads  from  Grindelwald  to  the  Faulhorn  by  the  Bmsalpj 
recommended  to  those  intending  to  return  to  Grindelwald.  Guide  necessarv, 
as  the  route  is  less  frequented.  Admirable  view  from  the  '  Burg '  (72470i 
which  of  itself  merits  a  visit  from  Grindelwald  (2i]s  hrs.). 

The  Path  from  the  Faulhorn  to  the  8cheidee\  di- 
verges from  the  Grindelwald  path,  to  the  1.  near  the  above-men- 
tioned hut  (d/4  hr.)  on  the  Baehalpseej  traverses  the  stony  slopes 
of  the  RitxligrStU,  where  the  shrill  cry  of  the  marmot  is  some- 
times heard,  and  keeps  the  same  level  for  some  distance  ;  7a  hr., 
a  gate  separating  the  BachcUp  f^om  the  Widderfeldalp;  5  min. 
farther ,  to  the  I. ,  not  down  the  bed  of  the  brook  ,*  10  min.  ,  a 
ridge  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Wetterhorn,  Schreck- 
horn,  Finsteraarhorn,  Viescherhorner,  with  their  glacier,  theEiger, 
and  the  valley  of  Grindelwald;  8  min.,  keep  to  the  1.  and 
cross  the  brook;  7  min.,  descend  to  the  1.  over  black,  crumbling 
slate;  then  a  gate,  where  the  Orindelalp  begins.      The  path   is 


122     JSottte  27.  SCHWARZHORN.  Bemeie 

now  lost  at  places,  but  soon  becomes  more  distinct;  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Wetterhorn  must  be  kept ;  ^4  hr. ,  a  small  brook  is 
crossed,  beyond  which  the  path  is  well  trodden;  5  min.,  a  brook; 
10  min.,  a  natural  bridge  over  the  Ber^e2&a«& ;  5  min.,  the  Cka" 
lets  of  Orindein,  with  fountain ;  1/4  hr. ,  a  gate ;  here  turn  to 
(he  r.  by  the  enclosure,  without  crossing  it,  pass  through  the 
next  gate  (12  min.),  and  make  for  the  top  of  a  hill;  8  min., 
Scheideck  Inn.  —  (In  ascending  from  the  Scheideck ,  be  careful 
to  avoid  the  turn  to  the  1.  at  the  bridge  over  the  Bergelbaeh; 
further  on ,  where  the  pathway  is  lost  on  the  pastures ,  again 
avoid  turning  to  the  1. ,  follow  a  direction  parallel  with  a  long 
enclosure  which  lies  a  little  to  the  1. ,  and  make  for  the  slope 
of  the  mountain,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  path  ie  regained.) 

The  Path  from  Interlaken  to  the  Faulhorn  (comp. 
p.  110)  leads  by  the  (4  hrs.)  Sehynige  Platte  (p.  109),  and  thence 
by  a  good  bridle-path  across  the  IseUen  Alpj  and  along  the  S. 
slopes  of  the  Laueherhom  (7333')  to  the  (1  hr.)  ridge  which  bounds 
the  SSgisthal  on  the  S. ;  admirable  views  of  the  Oberland.  Then 
descend  slightly  to  the  (3/4  hr.)  8dgi8thal-See,  with  its  chalet 
(6358^),  skirt  the  N.  and  N.£.  sides  of  the  lake,  and  ascend  the 
barren  slope  of  the  8ehwahhom^  a  ridge  between  the  lake  and 
the  Faulhorn.  The  summit  of  the  latter  is  reached  in  2  hrs. 
from  the  Sagisthal-See,  and  is  2447  ft.  above  it.  —  In  descending 
from  the  Faulhorn  to  the  Sehynige  Platte  the  path  is  easily 
found  if  the  traveller  is  shown  the  beginning  of  the  route  and 
then  follows  the  direction  indicated  by  the  heaps  of  stones.  The 
only  doubtful  point  is  1  hr.  beyond  the  Sagisthal-See,  on  the 
ridge  bounding  the  Sagisthal  on  the  W. ,  '  and  about  10  min. 
beyond  the  highest  point :  here  keep  to  the  r.  at  the  same  level, 
and  not  descend  to  the  1. 

From  the  Oiessbaeh  to  the  Faulhorn^  7 — 8  hrs.  (p.  129);  descent 
disagreeable  and  not  recommended. 

The  view  from  the  Faulhorn  is  partially  intercepted  by  the  neigh- 
bouring group  of  the  Bimelihom  (8928')  and  the  Rdthihom  (9052') ,  which 
rise  between  the  Finsteraarhom  and  the  Schreckhom,  and,  though  not 
without  picturesque  effect,  conceal  part  of  the  Alpine  chain,  the  green 
pastures  of  the  valley  of  Grindelwald,  and  the  two  glacier  tongues.  The 
Rftthihom,  which  owing  to  its  isolated  position  commands  a  much  finer 
view  of  the  mountains  of  Grindelwald  than  the  Faulhorn,  is  most  con- 
veniently ascended  on  the  return-route  from  the  Faulhorn  to  Grindelwald, 
by  diverging  to  the  r.  at  the  Bachalpsee  (p.  121)  and  afterwards  descending 
to  the  Bachalp. 

The  view  of  the  Bernese  Alps  is  still  grander  and  more  extensive 
from  the  ^BohwarBhoni  (9613'),  which,  with  the  Wildgertt  (94880,  intercepta 
the  view  from  the  Faulhorn  on  the  E.  side  (the  lakes  of  Lungem,  Samen, 
Alpnach,  Kiissnacht,  and  Zug  are  visible  hence,  all  situated  in  the  same 
line).  The  ascent  is  best  ouide  from  the  Great  Scheideck  by  the  Grindel- 
alp  (see  above)  in  3i|s  hrs.  (from  Grindelwald  6  hrs. ,  from  Bosenlaui  5Ms 
hrs.);  guide  necessary.  Active  mountaineers  may  descend  to  the  small 
Bt«nt€  Oletscher,  and  by  the  Breitenboden  Alp  (2  hrs.)  to  the  Baths  of  Rosm- 
iaui  (lija  hr.)  (p.  124). 


Oberland.  GREAT  SGHEIDEGK.        27.  RouU,     1 23 

i.    From  Orindelwald  to  Xoixingoa.    Tho  BofonlAvi  OlAoior. 

7aUi  of  tho  Boiohonbaeh. 

Comp.  Mmp^  p.  100, 

62/4  hrs. :  From  Grindelwald  to  the  Scheideck  3  (deacent  2)  hr«.,  from 
the  Scheideck  to  Rosenlaui  I'ji  (ascent  2>|2)  hrs.,  from  Roaenlaui  to 
Heiringen  2  (ascent  3)  hrs.,  a  good  day^s  walk  if  Mz  hr.  be  spent  at  the 
Upper  Grindelwald  Glacier,  1  hr.  at  the  Rosenlaui  ulacier,  and  >|t  hr.  at 
Oie  Falls  of  the  Reichenbach.  Horses ,  see  p.  99  ^  the.  entire  route  may 
be  performed  on  horseback,  but  the  Reichenbach  Falls  must  be  visited 
on  foot. 

The  path  ascends  gradually  through  rich  pastures,  and 
passing  the  Upper  OUicier  of  Grindelwald  (p.  119).  In  the  fore- 
ground  towers  the  magnificent  'Wotterhom  (12,165'),  or  HasU- 
JungfraUy  as  it  is  termed  by  the  natives,  rising  precipitously 
from  the  Scheideck. 

The  W.  peak  of  the  Wetterhom,  or  Hasli-Jungfrau  (12,147')  was  as- 
cended for  the  first  time  in  1844,  the  £.  peak  (AosenAom,  12,110')  in  the 
same  year,  and  the  MitUlhom  (12,165')  the  following  year.  The  ascent  has 
since  been  frequently  made  (in  1863  by  the  Editor).  The  night  before  the 
ascent  is  spent  in  the  club-hut  at  the  Oleekstein^  a  group  of  rocks  at  the 
S.W.  base  of  the  Wetterhom. 

Avalanches  descend  in  spring  from  the  Wetterhom  in  four 
different  directions.  The  snow  frequently  extends  to  the  path, 
and  does  not  entirely  melt  in  summer.  The  Alpine  horn  (an  in- 
strument 6  —  8  feet  in  length,  of  bark  or  wood)  is  generally 
sounded  from  the  opposite  slope  as  travellers  are  passing.  Its 
simple  notes,  reverberating  a  few  seconds  later  from  the  pre- 
cipices of  the  Wetterhom,  produce  a  not  unpleasing  effect. 

The   Groat,   or  Haali-Sohoidook  (6434^),    also  termed  the 

EseUriicken  or  Ass's  Back,  a  rocky  ridge  nearly  3  M.  long  and 

only  a  few  paces  wide,    commands  a   striking  view  towards  the 

W.    The  Inn  is  indifferent  (B.  2,  B.  IV2,  S.  3  fr. ;  horse  to  the 

Faulhorn  8  fr. ,   an   ascent  of  4   hrs.).     The   lovely   valley    of 

Grindelwald,  bounded  on  the  S.  W.  by  the  pastures  and  woods 

of  the  Little  Scheideck,  forms  a  picturesque  contrast  to  the  bleak 

and  barren  precipices  of  the  Wetterhom,  which  tower  above  the 

spectator  to  a  giddy  height.     The   eye  next  rests  on  the  conical 

summit  of  the  Little   Schreckhorn,   the  Metteuberg,    the  sharp 

crest  of  the  Eiger,  and  finally  the  S.E.  snowy  slope  of  the  Monch. 

High  up  on  the  r.  appears  the  SchwarzwcUd-GiacUry  which  has 

greatly  decreased  of  late,  between  the  Wetterhom  and  Wellborn. 
Travellers  from  Meiringen  who  do  not  wish  to  ascend  the  Faulhorn 
are  recommended  to  make  a  short  digression  here  (1  hr.),  by  following 
the  path  to  the  Faulhorn  (p.  121) ,  at  least  as  far  as  (>)4  hr.)  the  Orindel- 
tsip  (p.  121),  an  almost  level  walk,  in  order  to  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the 
naountains,  especially  of  the  Schreckhorn,  the  Upper  Grindelwald  Glacier, 
and  the  Vieschergrat.  From  the  Grindelalp  the  direct  descent  to  Grin- 
delwald (beyond  the  fountain  follow  the  Faulhorn  -  path  for  5  min.  more, 
tlxen  turn  to  1.)  is  not  longer  than  from  the  Scheideck. 

Immediately  below  the  Scheideck  the  paths  turns  to  th^  1., 
soon  enters  a  wood,  and  skirts  the  base  of  rocky  precipices. 
This  part  of  the  route  is  attractive  an)  varied ,   passing  several 


124     Route  27.  ROSENLAUI.  Bernese 

chalets  (among  those  of  Sehwarzwald  is  t  new  tavern),  and 
frequently  crossing  the  Oemthach  and  Reiekenbaeh^  the  latter 
finally  by  a  broad  bridge  in  a  pine-clad  valley,  1^2  hr.  from  the 
Scheideck.  The  track  divides  here.  One  path  (preferable,  as 
it  affords  pleasant  views  of  the  upper  Rosenlaui  Glacier  and 
the  mountains  surrounding  it)  continues  to  follow  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Reichenbach,  and  leads  in  1  hr.  to  the  saw -mill  (see 
below);  the  other  (Vi  br.  longer),  entering  the  forest  to  the  r., 
leads  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Reichenbach,  which  forms  a  pic- 
turesque fall  near  Rosenlaui  (best  seen  from  the  new  bridge 
behind  the  baths),  in  25  min.  to  the  Bathi  of  Boieiilaiii  (43630 
{*Hotel  and  Pension,  R.  2,  L.  1,  B.  IV2,  D.  ^Va,  A.  3/^  fr. ;  port- 
folios of  Alpine  plants  4—30  fr. ;  carved  wood  by  Jean  Zurfluk). 

Before  the  Baths  are  reached,  at  the  point  where  the  forest 
is  quitted,  a  footpath  to  the  r.  leads  to  the  BoMnUni  01aoi«r 
(5263'),  imbedded  between  the  WeUhom  (10,4860  <^nd  the 
EngeUiomer,  and  now  so  diminished  as  hardly  to  merit  a  visit. 
The  ice  of  this  glacier  is  remarkable  for  its  purity,  owing  to 
the  indestructible  nature  of  the  surrounding  rock  (black  lime- 
stone). The  dirty  appearance  of  the  Grindelwald  and  other 
glaciers  is  due  to  the  detritus   of  more  friable  formations. 

The  path  to  Meiringen  now  follows  the  course  of  the  Reieken- 
hach,  which  rises  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Schwarzhorn  chain.  It 
leads  at  first  through  underwood,  and  then  traverses  a  plateau 
of  fresh  green  pasture -land  (the  first  bridge  should  not  be 
crossed),  enclosed  by  forest,  and  enlivened  by  chalets  and  herds 
of  catUe,  a  favourite  resort  of  artists.  The  barren  Engelh5mer, 
with  the  Wellborn  in  front,  and  the  snow -clad  cone  of  the 
Wetterhorn  towering  above  it,  form  a  background  of  mountain 
grandeur,  which  with  the  lovely  scenery  at  its  base  presents  a 
picture  unsurpassed  in  Switzerland.  These  beauties  strike  the 
traveller  most  when  proceeding  from  Meiringen  to  Rosenlaui. 

The  Reichenbach  is  crossed  for  the  last  time  by  a  bridge,  at 
the  end  of  the  above  mentioned  plateau,  25  min.  f^om  the  Baths, 
and  the  path  now  remains  on  the  r.  bank  (^4  hr.  a  saw-mill 
and  small  inn).  The  descent  becomes  steep.  A  distant  view  in 
soon  obtained  of  the  valley  of  Hasli  or  Meiringen,  and  the 
mountains  which  surround  the  Brunig  and  Susten.  Facing  the 
traveller,  on  the  brink  of  the  slope,  1  hr.  from  Rosenlaui,  is 
the  small  inn  Zur  Zwingi.  About  ^4  ^^'  beyond  it  a  foot- 
path diverges  from  the  bridle-path  to  the  1. ,  to  the  *Falli  of 
the  Belolienbaeh,  leading  at  first  through  wood,  and  then  to  the 
1.  across  a  meadow,  by  means  of  steps  to  a  hut,  the  best  point 
for  seeing  the  *Vpper  Fall.  On  all  other  sides  the  view  is 
shut  out  by  wooden  hoarding.  Admission  to  the  hut  (camera 
obscura)  ^2  ^^'  i  ^^  ^^®  mprning  the  sun  shines  into  the  gorge 
and  forms  innumerable  rainbows.    The  Central  FaU  (KessHfall) 


OberUmd,  MEIRINOEN.  27.  RouU,      125 

is    guarded    by    another   hut   (25  c).     The    conversion  of  this 

beautiful  work  of  nature  into  a  peep-show  is  somewhat  trying  to 

the  temper.    At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  are  the  *H6tel  Reiehen- 

haeh  (see  below)  with  its  d^pendance  the  Hdtel  des  Alpes,  whence 

a  good  path  leads  (1/4  hr.)  to   a  bridge ,    from  which   a  view  is 

obtained  of  the  *  Lower  FaJtU  (illumination   every  evening  from 

1st  July). 

[The  falls  are  seen  to  the  best  advantage  when  this  route  is 

taken  in   the  reverse   direction  (from    Meiringen    to    the  upper 

fall  3^4  hr.).      As  Rosenlaui  is  approached,  the  Wetterhorn  and 

the  Wellborn  form  a  strikingly  beautiful  background.     The  path 

which  crosses  the  bridge  near  the  second  fall  should  be  avoided, 

although  it  has  the  appearance   of  being  the   more   frequented; 

that  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Reichenbach  should   not  be  quitted.] 

Travellers  to  the  Orimiel^  who  do  not  intend  to  visit  the  Falls  of 
the  Beichenbach  and  Meiringen,  save  nearly  an  hour  by  following  the 
bridle-path  for  10  min.  beyond  the  point  wliere  the  footpath  diverges  to 
the  falls,  and  then  taming  to  the  r.  by  a  ragged  footpath  which  leads  to 
the  village  of  Oeiiholx  (25  min.)  hidden  among  fruit-trees.  Here  ascend  the 
pastures ,  and  descend  the  steep  slope  of  the  Kirehtt  (p.  138)  to  {}\t  hr.) 
Im-Ormndj  or  HtMi-Qrmnd,  and  (10  min.)  ImrHiif  (p.  138). 

K«iri]igen  (19650  ^Kront,  R.  2,  B.  IV2,  D.  3,  A.  V2  fr- ; 
^Sauvagt^  similar  charges;  *Bdr  near  the  church,  unpretending; 
*H6tel  du  Reiehenbaehj  prettily  situated  opposite  the  lowest  fall 
of  the  Reichenbach,  R.  2V2,  !>•  ^,  L.  and  A.  IV4  fr.  —  Eng- 
lish Church.  —  Guides:  Mdehior  and  Jae.  Anderegg^  MeUhhr 
and  Jae.  Blatter^  Joh.  TdnnUr,  etc.  —  Horses  ^  etc.  see  p.  99), 
with  2787  inhab.  (25  Rom.  Gath.),  the  chief  vlUage  of  the  Hasli- 
Thal,  is  situated  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Aare ,  in  a  level  vaUey 
3  M.  in  width,  surrounded  by  wooded  mountains,  and  over- 
shadowed by  snowy  peaks.  Three  brooks  (Alpbaeh)  descend  from 
the  HasUberg  into  the  valley  at  the  back  of  the  village,  forming 
considerable  waterfalls.  They  often  overflow  their  banks,  and  cover 
the  whole  district  with  rocks,  mud,  and  slatey  detritus  from  the 
Hasliberg.  A  disaster  of  this  kind  destroyed  the  greater  part  of 
the  village  in  1762,  when  stones  and  mud  were  heaped  up  in 
the  church,  to  a  height  of  18',  as  indicated  by  a  black  line 
on  the  wall.  A  broad  canal  descending  to  the  Aare  has  been 
eonstructed  to  prevent  the  recurrence  of  such  a  catastrophe. 

The  ffa$li-Thal  (or  Sasli  im  Weisshmd)  is  divided  by  the  Kirehet  (p.  133) 
into  the  Untere  and  Obert  Hasli.  The  inhabitants  are  generally  of  a  slight, 
but  strong  and  active  frame  (wrestling-matches,  see  In  trod.  XV),  and  are 
remarkable  for  their  picturesque  costume  and  pure  dialect.  According  to 
tradition,  they  are  of  Swedish  or  Frisian  descent,  and  the  opinions  of  se- 
veral modem  Swedish  savants  in  favour  of  this  theory  are  recorded  in  a 
book  kept  at  Meiringen. 

Six  different  Alpine  routes  converge  at  Meiringen  :  the  road  to 

Brttfna  (see  below) ;  the  road  to  Lucerne  by  the  Briinig  (R.  24) ; 

the  path  to  EngeU>erg  by  the  Jochpass  (R.  28);    to  path  by  the 

Susten   to  Wasen  on  the  St.  Qotthard  route  (R.  29);  the  path 


126     Itoute  ^7.  BRIENZ.  ^emesi 

to  the  Orimsel  (R.  30);  the  path  over  the  Great  Scheideck  to 
Orkiddwcdd  fp.  118).  The  magnificent  fall  of  the  Aare  at  the 
Handeek  (p.  l34)  is  5^2  hrs.  from  Meiringen. 

k.  From  Keiringen  to  Interlaken.  Bothhoxn.   Lake  of  Brieax. 

Camp.  Jfapy  p.  100. 

From  Meiringen  to  Brienz  9  H.  Diligence  three  times  daily  in  U\t  hr., 
fare  1  fr.  80  c.  \  one-horse  can*.  7  fr. ;  to  Interlaken  16  (by  the  road  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  lake,  see  p.  1!27),  two-horse  90  fr.  From  Brienz  to  Inter- 
laken Steamboat  4  times  daily  in  li|4  hr. ,  2  fr.  or  1  fr. ;  luggage  ad- 
ditional, 50  c.  for  each  box.  Omnibus  from  the  landing-place  at  Inter- 
laken to  the  (1  H.)  station,  60  c,  carriage  1  fr. 

Beyond  Meiringen  the  road  crosses  the  Aare  and  traverses 
pastures.  Several  cascades  fall  from  the  precipice  on  the  1., 
among  them  the  beautiful  OUschibach.  Below  (5  M.)  BrienzwyUr 
(p.  92)  the  road  again  crosses  the  Aare  by  a  new  iron  bridge,  at 
the  junction  of  our  route  with  the  new  Briinig  road. 

The  once  fertile  banks  of  the  Lake  of  Brienz,  which  now  be- 
comes visible  to  the  W.,  are  strewn  with  rocks.  In  1797  a  mud- 
stream  (comp.  p.  64)  destroyed  a  great  part  of  the  villages  of 
Schwanden  and  Hofatetterij  which  belong  to  Brienz,  and  in  1824 
a  landslip  devastated  an  area  of  30  acres.  The  *Pe$uion  BeUevue 
(with  pleasant  grounds  and  lake -baths),  near  the  influx  of  the 
Aare  1^4  M.  from  Brienz,  stands  on  the  site  of  the  village 
of  KienkolZj  which  ws^s  destroyed  by  a  similar  catastrophe  in 
1499. 

Traoht  (*  WeUsea  Kreuij  at  the  steamboat-quay,  the  starting- 
point  of  the  Briinig  diligence,  is  recommended  when  the  QiesB- 
bach  Hotel ,  of  which  it  is  a  d^pen dance,  is  full),  now  almost  a 
continuation  of  Brienz,  is  noted  for  its  wood-carving,  which  em- 
ploys 600  persons.  The  KdruUi,  ^4  hr.  above  the  hotel,  com- 
mands a  pleasing  view  of  the  lake,  the  Faulhorn  chain,  the 
Sustenhorn,  the  Trlftenhorn,  etc. 

Brioni  (Baty  R.  2,  B.  IV2)  D-  3,  A.  1  fr.),  a  considerable 
village  (2605  inhab.),  consisting  chiefly  of  wooden  houses,  is 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Brienzer  Orat  (7336'),  a 
mountain  separating  the  Lake  of  Brienz  from  the  Entlebuch. 
The  churchyard  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  lake,  the  Gieaabach, 
the  Faulhorn  in  the  back-ground ,  the  fall  of  the  Oltschibach  (see 
above)  to  the  1.,  and  the  faU  of  the  MuhUbaeh  (1150',  often  dry 
in  summer)  behind  the  spectator.     Brienz  is  also  famed  for  its 

wood-carving,  the  chief  repository  of  which  merits  a  visit. 

From  Brienz  to  Lucerne  by  the  Briinig^  see  B.  24^  one-horse 
carriage  to  Alpnach-Oestad  20  fr. 

The  highest  peak  of  the  Brienzer  Orat  is  the  *Bn«$aser  Kotkhora  (7713'), 
celebrated  for  the  extensive  view  it  commands.  A  good  bridle-path ,  be- 
ginning near  the  Bear  Hotel,  leads  to  the  summit  in  4i|2  hrs.  (guide,  5  fr., 
unnecessary  \  horse  15  fr.).  *Inn  1)4  hr.  from  the  top  (R.  3ifxi  B.  2,  A.  1  fr.). 
The  first  third  of  the  route  only  is  fatiguing,  the  last  20  min.  through 
wood,  as  far  as  the  (lijz  hr.)  Planalp  Chalets  (5383')  (Restaurant  Fluck,  with 


Ohertand.  LAKfi  Of  BlOBNZ.         $7.  BouU.     127 

a  few  beds);  the  ascent  (1  br.)  of  the  Pkmalp,  watered  by  the  MMlibach, 
and  of  the  last  slopes  of  the  mountain  (2  hrs.)  is  gradual.  At  the  top  stands 
the  boundary-stone  of  the  Cantons  of  Bern ,  Lucerne ,  and  Unterwalden. 
The  old  path  leads  by  Sc/uoanden^  the  pastures  of  JEck  and  JrUeheUn^  and 
the  small  Eyue  (which  is  left  on  the  r.).  The  view  from  the  summit  em- 
braces the  chain  of  the  Bernese  Oberland  (p.  120),  the  Lake  of  Brienz 
in  the  foreground-,  a  glimpse  of  the  Lake  of  Thun  between  tibie  mountains 
to  the  r.  above  Interlaken;  the  entire  Haslithal  from  Meiringen  nearly  to 
the  Grimsel  \  on  the  other  side  the  small  Eysee,  the  Lake  of  Samen,  a  con- 
siderable part  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  with  the  Big! ,  part  of  the  Lake  of 
Zug,  a  long  strip  of  the  Lake  of  Neuchatel ,  and  even  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance. This  point  of  view  vies  with  the  Kiesen  (p.  102).  The  Bernese 
Alps  are  partially  concealed  by  the  Faulhom  ^hain,  but  the  chain  of  the 
Titlis,and  particularly  the  Titlis  itself,  stands  out  in  full  prominence ;  to 
the  S.  of  it  are  the  Sustenhom ,  the  Trifthom ,  the  snow  peaks  to  the  E. 
of  Oberhasli,  etc.  \  the  Glamisch  and  the  Sentis  are  also  distinctly  visible. 
—  Descent  by  the  Eysee  to  Sifrenberg  in  the  Kleine  Emmenthal,  and  (6  hrs.) 
ScMpfheinij  see  p.  98. 

The  Lake  of  Bri«ni  (1857'),  77^  M.  long,  and  2  M.  wide, 
near  the  Giessbach  500'  deep,  near  Oberried  859'  deep,  is  20' 
higher  than  the  Lake  of  Thun,  with  which  it  is  supposed  to  have 
been  once  united  (p.  106).  It  is  surrounded  by  lofty  wooded 
mountains  and  rocks.  To  the  S.E.  in  the  background  is  the 
snow -clad  Susten;  to  the  r.  the  Triftenhorner.  The  inconsid- 
erable lowest  fall  of  the  Oiesabaeh  only  (see  below)'  is  visible  from 
the  lake.  Beyond  the  (Hessbach,  on  the  S.  bank,  lies  the  pret- 
tily situated  village  of  Jseltwaldi  with  an  old  chateau  of  the  Coun- 
tess d'Ericourt;  in  the  lake  is  the  small  wooded  Schnecken-Inael. 
On  the  N.  bank  are  the  villages  of  Oberried  and  Niederried^  at 
the  base  of  the  Augstmatthom;  farther  on,  rise  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Ringgenberg  (2024'),  on  an  eminence,  with  the  church 
of  that  name,  surrounded  by  woods  and  orchards,  and  the  old 
tower  of  the  Church  of  Qoldswyl,  standing  on  an  isolated  hill 
presenting  a  very  picturesque  group.  On  the  opposite  bank  the 
Liitschine  descends  from  the  valleys  of  Grindelwald  and  Lauter- 
brunnen.  The  lake  gradually  contracts,  and  at  length  joins  the 
lake  of  Thun  (comp.  p.  106)  under  the  name  of  the  Aare.  As 
the  steamer  approaches  its  destination,  the  snow -fields  of  the 
Ebnefluh  suddenly  become  visible  through  a  ravine  to  the  S. 

The  steamer  touches   at  Bonigen  (p.  105),  on  the  r.  bank  of 

the  Lutschine,  and  then  enters  the  Aare.    The  landing-place  at 

Interlaken   is  near  the  H6tel  du  Lac,    at  the  end  of  the  Hohe- 

weg  (p.  106). 

The  Road  from  Brienx  to  Interlaken  (12  M.  ^  one-horse  carr. 
7 — 8  fr.),  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  lake,  passes  through  (l>ls  H.)  Ehligen^  (2  M.) 
Oberried,  and  (3  M.)  Niederried;  then,  at  a  considerable  height  above  the 
lake,  leads  through  a  rocky  tract  to  (2<J2  H.)  Ringgenberg ,  past  the  small 
Fauleniee  (p.  109) ,  at  the  base  of  the  hill  with  the  ancient  church  -  tower, 
and  through  Ooldswyl  (beautiful  views)  to  the  upper  bridge  over  the  Aare 
at  Interlaken  (3  M.). 


128     Route  27.  GIESSBAOH. 

1.    The  OieMbach. 

*Hotel  at  the  Oiessbach,  R.  Arum  2if2  fr.,  B.  lijs,  D.  4,  illumination  of 
the  Falls  1  (always  charged  for  the  fint  night),  L.  and  A.  l^jz,  pension  6 
to  12  fr.  ^  whey-cure,  reading-room,  etc.  Post  Office  at  the  hotel.  Restaurant 
on  the  terrace  opposite  the  falls.  The  Weisse  Kreut  at  Tracht  (p.  126)  is 
a  D^endance  of  the  hotel. 

^Uvmiaatioii  of  the  Falls  with  Bengal  lights,  before  the  middle  of  June 
on  Mondays  and  Saturdays,  from  that  time  till  the  end  of  September  every 
evening  (1  fr. ,  see  above,  non-customers  lijs  fr.).  The  effect  is  certainly 
striking,  although  perhaps  in  questionable  taste.  On  the  ringing  of  a  bell 
visitors  assemble  on  the  terrace  opposite  the  falls.  The  signal  being  given 
by  the  discharge  of  a  rocket,  the  whole  of  the  falls  are  suddenly  bathed  in 
a  flood  of  light,  changing  from  white  to  red  and  green.  —  In  the  height 
of  the  season  it  is  advisable  to  order  rooms  at  the  hotel  a  few  days  before- 
hand^ but  the  traveller  may  return  by  small  boat  to  Brienz  and  Tracht 
after  the  illumination. 

Steamboat  to  or  from  Interlaken  in  50,  to  or  from  Brienz  in  10  min., 
see  pp.  109,  126.  Two  large  saloon-steamers  now  ply  on  the  lake.  On 
Thursday  evenings  a  steamer  leaves  Interlaken  for  the  Oieesbach  at  7.30, 
returning  after  the  illumination. 

Beimig-boat  from  Brienz  to  the  Giessbach  in  ijz  hr.,  each  rower  J  fr. 
The  boatmen  of  Brienz  usually  demand  3  fr.  for  a  boat  with  two  rowers. 
From  Interlaken  to  the  Giessbach  in  2  hrs.,  6—8  fr. 

Footpath  from  the  bridge  of  Brientwyler  (pp.  92,  126:  to  the  Giess- 
bach 6  H.),  for  some  distance  along  the  r.  hinHs.  of  the  Aare,  through 
meadows,  then  bj  a  narrow  bridge  to  the  1.  bank,  and  thence  through 
shady  woods  to  the  Giessbach  hotel.  From  the  Giessbach  to  Brienz  (6  M.) 
by  the  same  path  till  the  last-mentioned  bridge  is  crossed.  From  the 
Giessbach  to  Interlaken ,  see  p.  129. 

The  *0ie8ibacli,  formeTly  inaccessible,  was  brought  into  notice 
in  1818  by  the  schoolmaster  Kehrli  (d.  1854),  who  constructed  a 
path  to  the  falls,  for  the  use  of  which  he  levied  a  trifling  toll 
on  visitors.  His  heirs  sold  their  right  in  1854  to  the  Steamboat 
Co.  of  the  Lakes  of  Brienz  and  Thun;  since  1870,  it  is  the 
property  of  Messrs.  Hauser.  Since  the  construction  of  the  hotel, 
the  Giessbach  has  become  one  of  the  pleasantest  and  most  popular 
resorts  in  Switzerland.  The  pleasure  grounds  harmonise  so  well 
with  the  scenery  as  even  to  enhance  its  attractions. 

A  good  path  ascends  from  the  landing-place  to  the  hotel  in 
1/4  hr.  (Near  the  first  bend  is  a  bridge  spanning  the  lowest  fall.) 
On  reaching  the  sixth  bend  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  the  highest 
fall  is  obtained.  Farther  up  is  the  Kanzel^  a  projecting  platform 
commanding  a  view  of  the  lake.  The  adjoining  wooden  house 
contains  a  repository  of  carved  wood.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  path  is  a  white  marble  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Kehrli. 

The  adjoining  *Terrace  is  the  finest  point  in  the  grounds. 
It  commands  a  complete  *view  of  the  Giessbach,  a  series  of 
seven  cascades  falling  from  rock  to  rock  from  a  great  height 
(highest  point  1148'  above  the  lake).  The  falls  are  inferior  in 
height  to  those  of  the  Reichenbach  (p.  124),  but  the  richness 
of  the  foliage  and  the  freshness  of  the  herbage  in  which  they 
are  framed  invest  them  with  a  peculiar  charm,  and  give  a  park- 
like aspect  to  the  scene.  The  shade  of  the  lofty  trees  and  the 
cool  breeze  produced  by  the  falls  are  very  grateful  in  hot  weather. 


GIESSBACH.  27.  Route.      1 29 

Good  paths  lead  from  the  hotel  and  from  the  terrace  to  the 
slopes  over  which  the  cataract  falls,  and  ascend  both  sides  of 
the  stream  as  far  as  the  second  bridge  (74  hr.),  from  which  to 
the  upper  fall  (I/2  hr.)  there  is  a  path  on  the  r.  bank  oidy.  An 
iron  bridge  spans  the  Second  Fall,  and  behind  it  a  grotto  also 
connects  the  banks  of  the  stream.  The  veil  of  falling  water  has 
a  curious  effect  on  the  landsc^ape  seen  through  its  medium.  The 
visitor  should,  if  possible,  ascend  to  the  (3/4  hr.)  Highest  Fall, 
where  the  Giessbach,  issuing  from  a  sombre  ravine,  is  precipitated 
under  the  bridge  into  an  abyss,  190'  in  depth.  This  fall  is 
best  seen  from  a  projecting  rock  to  the  r.  of  the  bridge.  About 
noon  rainbows  are  formed  in  the  falls. 

The  *Rauft,  a  group  of  wooded  rocks  on  the  N.E.  side  of 
the  valley,  opposite  to  the  falls,  about  400'  above  the  hotel  and 
rising  800'  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  lake,  commands  a 
view  of  the  Lake  of  Brienz,  the  mouth  of  the  Aare  and  the 
alluvial  district  of  Brienzwyler,  the  mountains  above  Brienz, 
opposite,  the  long  Brienzer  Grat  and  the  Brienzer  Kothhorn 
(p.  126);  then  beyond  Interlaken,  part  of  the  Lake  of  Thun, 
overlooked  by  the  pyramid  of  the  Niesen  (p.  103).  The  path  from 
the  hotel  to  the  Rauft  is  indicated  by  a  flnger-post.  In  returning, 
take  tbe  path  which  skirts  the  side  next  the  lake,  and  descends 

to  the  terrace  opposite  the  falls. 

From  the  Oiexsbach  to  the  Faulhorn  (p.  122),  a  fatiguing,  un- 
pleasant walk  of  7 — 8  hrs.,  guide  necessary  (6  fr.). 

From  Oieasbach  to  Interlaken  (4  hrs.),  a  rough  path  to  (2  hrs.) 
J$eltu>ald,  from  which  a  good  road  leads  by  (i^fv  M.)  Sengg  and  (3  M.) 
BSnigen  to  (I'js  M.)  Interlaken.  About  midway  between  the  hotel  and  the 
lake,  cross  the  brook  at  the  finger  post  by  an  old  stone  bridge ,  and  skirt 
the  lake,  generally  at  a  considerable  height  above  it,  until  Bonigen  is  nearly 
reached. 

28.   From  Meiringen  to  Engelberg.     Jochpass. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  76. 

10>J2  hrs. :  Im-Hof  l'|<,  Engstlenalp  ^\a  (descent  4),  Joch  i>|a  (descent  1), 
Triibsee  'ja  (ascent  1),  Engelberg  I'ja  (ascent  2'(2)  hrs.  Carriage  -  road  to 
Imhof,  beyond  it  a  bridle-path.  Ilorse  32,  guide  18  fr.  Guide  only  necessary 
from  the  point  (1  hr.  above  Im-Hof ,  near  an  old  iron-foundry)  where  the 
path  diverges  from  the  Susten  route,  to  the  entrance  of  the  Gentelthal,  an 
ascent  of  1>|2  hr.  Thence  to  the  Joch  the  way  cannot  be  mistaken;  the  de- 
scent of  the  pass  is  easily  found ,  if  the  direction  be  known.  If  necessary, 
a  guide  may  be  taken  from  the  Engstlenalp  (5  fr.).  If  the  walk  seems  too 
long  for  one  day,  the  traveller  may  sleep  at  Imhof,  or  at  the  Engstlenalp 
(inn  sometimes  full).  Those  who  begin  this  route  at  Engelberg  require  a 
guide  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  (to  the  Engstlenalp  5  fr.). 

From  Meiringen  to  Im-Hof  (2054')  over  the  Kirchet  in  1 1/4  hr. , 
see  p.  132.  Then  follow  the  Susten  route  for  1  hr.,  as  far  as  an 
old  iron-foundry,  where  the  Oentelbach,  descending  from  the  Susten. 
drives  a  saw-mill  and  unites  with  the  Gadmenbach.  The  roug* 
and  stony  bridle-path  now  ascends  rapidly  through  wood  towards 
the   N.E.  to   the   (272  hrs.)  beginning   of   the  Qentelalp,    where 

Baobkeb,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  9 


130     RouU  28.  ENGSTLEN-ALP. 

it  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  brook.  It  remains  on  this  side 
for  nearly  2  hrs.,  passing  several  chalets,  and  ascending  very 
slightly.  (To  the  W.  rise  the  three  Wetterhorner  and  the 
Hangend-Gletscherhorn  at  the  end  of  the  Urbachthal,  p.  133.) 
The  pinus  cembra,  or  'cedar  of  the  Alps',  is  found  in  the  Gen- 
telthal  and  Engstlenthal.  (A  shorter  route,  but  requiring  a 
guide,  leads  from  Meiringen  to  the  1.  (instead  of  going  to  the  r. 
to  Imhof),  soon  ascends  gradually  and  then  skirts  the  brow  of 
the  Ha^li-Berg,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  valleys  which  unite 
at   Imhof.) 

At  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Gentelalp  the  path  crosses  to  the 
Engatlenalp  on  the  1.  bank.  From  the  middle  of  the  steep, 
smooth  precipice  (^Gadmenfluh ,  9987'),  a  number  of  abundant 
streamlets  well  forth,  forming  picturesque  waterfalls  (Junghol%- 
hdche,  Jiingiabrunnen ,  Schwarzbrunnen  y  or  AchUlsacubache), 
A  rustic  Inn  here.  The  EngaUenbach,  as  the  brook  is  named 
above  this  point,  also  boasts  of  several  considerable  falls.  The 
rough  path,  passing  masses  of  rock  overgrown  with  pines,  ascends 
in  2  hrs.  more  to  the  *Engstlen-Alp  (6033'),  which  lies  at  about 
the  same  height  as  the  Grimsel-Hospice  (p.  135).  This  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  pastures  of  the  Alps,  with  its 
flower-carpeted  meadows,  Alpine  roses,  venerable  pines ,  brooks, 
and  waterfalls.  (Excellent  drinking-water,  temperature  40 — 42" 
Fahr.).  The  view  to  the  S.W.  embraces  the  Finster- Aarhorn, 
Schreckhorn,  Wetterhom,  and  Breithoru ;  to  the  E.  the  Wenden- 
stocke  and  Titlis.  *Inn  (R.  2,  D.  3,  pension  5  —  7  fr.)  often 
full.  The  finest  point  of  view  is  a  small  hill  in  front  of  the 
house  (3  min.). 

The  Wunderbrunnen  ('miraculous  welP),  about  300  paces  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  inn,  is  an  intermittent  spring  which  flows  copiously  in  fine  weather 
(when  swollen  by  the  melting  snow),  especially  about  o  p.m.,  while  at 
5  a.  m.  it  is  quite  dry.  When  the  weather  is  cloudy  (and  the  snow  con- 
sequently does  not  melt),  it  almost  entirely  ceases.  The  name  it  bears  is 
hardly  justified  by  such  simple  natural  causes. 

The  ascent  of  the  *Titlia  (p.  87)  from  the  Engstlen-Alp  is  hardly  shor- 
ter than  from  Engelberg;  from  the  Engstlen-Alp  to  the  Joch  lifv  hr. ;  then 
4 — 5  hrs.  more  over  loose  stones  and  glacier;  descent  4  hrs.  Guide  from 
the  inn  10  fr.  (chai-ged  in  the  bill)  and  a  gratuity.  In  order  to  reach  the 
Titlis  in  good  time,  travellers  generallly  leave  the  Engstlen-Alp  at  2  a.  m. 
with  lanterns.  —  The  Geisherg  (2  hrs.  from  the  Engstlen  Alp)  is  recom- 
mended to  those  who  cannot  ascend  the  Titlis. 

The  SAtteli,  a  pass  to  the  Gadmenthal  (p.  132),  2  hrs.  to  the  S.  of  the 
Engstlen-Alp,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Gadmenthal  and  the  Bernese 
Alps.  The  route  from  the  Gadmenthal  to  the  Satteli  (6  hrs.  from  the  inn 
'am  Stein**,  p.  132,  to  the  Engstlen-Alp)  is  very  steep  and  requires  a  guide, 
there  being  no  beaten  track. 

From  the  Engstlen- Aljt  to  the  Melchthal.  About ','4  hr.  below 
the  inn,  near  the  waterfall,  a  steep  path  ascends  in  I'j^  hr.  to  the  Tannen- 
alp  (6503'),  where  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  Wetterhom,  the  Bernese 
mountains,  the  Titlis,  etc.  From  the  Tannenalp  to  the  Melchsee  (6427')  (p.  91) 
a  gradual  descent  of  1  hr.     The  Melchthal,  see  p.  91. 

The  path  to  Engelberg  skirts  the  Engstlensee  (6076'),  a  lake 
11/2  ^-  long)  enclosed  on  the  S.  by  the  glaciers  of  the  Oadmen' 


JOCH-PASS.  2S.  RouU.      131 

fiiihe  (9987'),  and  on  the  N.  by  the  Grausiock  (8737'),  and  then 
aseends  (1  hr.)  to  the  Joeh-FaM  (7244'),  whence  the  Wendeu- 
stocke  and  the  Titlis  present  a  most  imposing  appearance,  and  a 
striking  view  is  obtained  of  the  mountains  of  Unterwaldeu.  The 
snow  here  does  not  melt  until  the  height  of  summer. 

The  path  descending  from  the  pass  becomes  rugged  and  may 
be  easily  mistaken ;  20  min.,  Upper  Trubaee-Alp,  with  the  small 
Trubsee  (57910;  25  min.,  Lower  Trub$ee-Alp ,  with  a  chalet, 
and  a  considerable  waterfall  (Staubi)  to  the  r. 

The  bridle-path  (272  hrs.  to  Engelberg)  turns  to  the  1.  The 
pleasanter  path  (1^2  hr.  to  Engelberg)  crosses  the  brook  (no  bridge) 
between  the  waterfall  and  the  lake,  which  remains  on  the  1. 
and  descends  for  ^/^  hr. .  skirting  the  precipitous  Pfaffenwand 
(somewhat  slippery  in  rainy  weather).  It  next  traverses  the 
Oerstni  Alp,  in  the  direction  of  a  clump  of  pines,  enters  the 
forest,  and  crosses  the  EngeLberger  Aa  at  the  foot  of  the  moun> 
tain.     Engelberg  (3313'),  see  p.  87. 

29.    From  Meirineren  to  Wasen.    Snsten  Pass. 


Comp.  Map^  p.  76'. 

liija  hrs. :  Im-Huf  li|4,  Gftdmen  3  (descent  2),  Am  Stein  2i|.{  (descent  lijs). 
Susten-Scheideck  i^i  (descent  1>|2) ,  Meien  2  (ascent  S^/O,  Wuden  1  (ascent 
11 J2)  br.  Horse  35,  guide  20  fr. ,  unnecessary  in  fine  weather.  The 
only  good  inn  on  this  long  route  is  that  of  Im-Hof^  thiise  at  Oadmen 
(dear),  the  Stein  Glacier,  and  Meien  are  poor.  Horses  and  guides  are  often 
found  on  this  route  returning  from  the  Furca  or  Grimsel  route  to  Andermatt 
or  Hospenthal. 

After  Napoleon  bad  annexed  the  little  republic  of  the  Valais  (founded 
by  him  in  1801)  to  France  in  1811  (p.  253),  and  had  established  a  Uriff  of 
customs  on  the  Simplon  route,  the  produce  of  the  canton  of  Bern  was 
sent  to  Italy  by  the  Susten  and  the  St.  Gotthard.  The  pass  was  then  con- 
verted into  a  kind  of  military  road  from  10  to  12^  wide,  but  two  years 
later,  circumstances  having  changed,  it  was  abandoned.  It  may  still  be 
traced  up  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  on  both  sides,  and,  though  no  longer 
practicable  for  carriages,  is  the  most  frequented  bridle-path  in  this  part 
of  the  Alps. 

From  Meiringen  in  IVi  hr.  to  Jm-Hof  (2054'),  see  p.  133. 
The  Susten  route  here  diverges  to  the  E.  from  the  Grimsel  route. 
It  traverses  pleasant  meadows  and  wooded  slopes,  and  skirts  the 
winding  Gadmenbach.  At  one  time  the  Wetterhorn,  Wellborn, 
and  Engelhorner,  at  another  the  Schwarzhorn  group  form  the 
background  towards  the  W. 

The  lower  part  of  the  valley  is  termed  the  Miihlethal ,  above 
which  is  the  Nessenthal.  At  the  (1  hr.)  iron-foundry  the  path 
crosses  the  QmUelbaeh  (route  to  the  Engstlenalp  and  the  Joch- 
Pa»8,  see  p.  129).  At  (3/4  hr.)  Muhlestalden  the  narrow  Triflthnl 
opens  towards  the  S.E.,  with  the  extensive  Trifi-G lacier  in  the 
background.  The  path  then  ascends  by  Schafielen  to  (1  hr.) 
Fuhren  (3848').  In  the  beautiful  Gadmenthal  which  begins  here 
lies  (20  min.)  the  village  of  Gadmen  ("'Inn),    consisting  of  the 

9* 


132     RouU  99.  SUSTEN-PASS. 

three  hamlets  of  An  der  Egg^  Bilhl,  and  Obermatt.  (Path  over 
the  Sfitteli  to  the  Enystlen-Alp ,  see  p.  130.)  The  green  valley 
with  its'  fine  old  maple-trees  contrasts  singularly  with  the  barren 
and  precipitous  Gadmenfluh  (9987';  see  p.  130).  On  the  slope 
of  the  Urathshomer  (9820')  to  the  E.,  the  glacier  of  Wenden  is 
visible. 

The  path  ascends  gradually  to  the  (2^2  hrs.)  Inn  Am  Stein 
(R.  2,  B.  IV2,  A.  72  fr.),  at  the  foot  of  the  Stein  OUeier  (6122') 
and  surrounded  by  ice,  moraine,  and  rock.  This  glacier  is  un- 
questionably one  of  the  most  extensive  and  remarkable  in  Switzer- 
land. In  1840  it  was  I72  ^'  distant  from  the  old  path,  but 
now  extends  considerably  beyond  it,  and  will,  it  is  feared,  even- 
tually fill  up  the  entire  upper  part  of  the  valley.  At  the  lower 
end  rises  a  bold  and  lofty  arch  of  moraine. 

The  (lY4hr.)  Sniten-Soheideek  (7421'),  as  the  culminating 
point  of  the  pass  is  called,  commands  a  limited  but  imposing 
view ,  embracing  the  entire  chain  of  precipices  and  mountains 
which  bound  the  Meienthal  on  the  N. ,  the  huge  peaks  of  the 
Sustenfiorner  (11,519')  and  Thierberge  (11,306'),  from  which 
the  Stein  glacier  descends  in  three  arms ,  and  the  long  jagged 
ridge  of  the  Qadmenfluh.  Several  of  the  peaks  of  the  Bernese 
Oberland  are  visible  through  a  narrow  gap  towards  the  W. 

The  path,  now  uninteresting,  winds  down  the  slopes  of  the 
Vrathahomer  (see  above).  The  Meienbaeh ,  which  it  follows  and 
crosses  repeatedly ,  emerges  from  a  wild  gorge  on  the  r. ,  into 
which  avalanches  are  frequently  precipitated  from  the  Stiieklisiock 
(10,856')  and  the  majestic  SiLstenhomer.  Near  the  (1  hr.)  first 
bridge  the  path  reaches  the  Hundsalp.  It  then  crosses  a  bridge 
high  above  the  impetuous  OurezmettUrbach,  Several  brooks  issue 
from  the  Riitifirn  on  the  r. 

Femigen  (4787')  is  the  first  group  of  houses,  then  the  (2  hrs.) 
village  of  Meien  (4331')  {Inn  near  the  chapel),  consisting  of 
several  hamlets  {Dorfliy  Huaen,  &c.).  Above  Wasen  the  road 
passes  the  Meienschanz  (3579'),  an  intrenchment  commanding 
the  entrance  to  the  Meienthal,  erected  in  1712  during  the 
Religious  War  (p.  290),  fortified  anew  by  the  Austrians  in 
1799,  and  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  French  under  Loison 
after  several  attacks,  on  14th  Aug.,  1799. 

The  path  then  descends  rapidly  to  (1  hr.)  Waien  (2756')  on 
the  St.  Gotthard  route  (p.  79). 

30.  From  Meiringen  to  the  Rhone  Olacier.  Grimsel. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  76. 

10i|2  hrs. :  Guttannen  d^\t-,  Handeck  2,  Orimsel  Hospice  2s|« ,  summit  of 
the  Orimsel  1,  Rhone  Glacier  V\a\  return  in  S^js  hrs.  Good  bridle-path, 
guide  unnecessary'.  Horse  from  Meiringen  to  the  Handeck  (and  back  in 
1  day)  15,  Orimsel  25,  Rhone  Glacier  32,  Hospenthal  or  Andermatt  40  fr. 
(comp.  p.  99). 


IM-HOF.  30.  Route.      133 

The  carriage-road,  completed  for  some  distance  beyond  Im- 
Hof,  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Aare  near  Meirinficen ,  and 
ascends  the  Kirohet  (2782';  845'  above  the  Aare),  a  wooded 
ridge  sprinkled  with  erratic  blocks  of  granite,  and  dividing  the 
valley  into  the  Lower  and  Upper  Haslithal.  At  the  top,  ^/o  hr. 
from  Meiringen,  a  finger-post  near  the  small  'Lamm'  inn  indicates 
the  path  to  the  ^Finstere  AarachUichf  to  the  1. 

The  *'FumUm  BcUauohe.  From  the  inn  ascend  slightly  to  the  1.,  then 
follow  a  good  path  through  underwood  into  a  most  picturesque  rocky 
gorge  resembling  that  of  the  Tamina,  formed  by  the  erosive  action  of  the 
stream.  Far  below  dashes  the  Aare,  between  perpendicular  precipices 
d(Xy  in  height.  Interesting  walk,  there  and  back,  of  40  min.  A  toll  of 
*J2  fr.  for  one  person ,  and  1  fr.  for  a  party  of  three  or  more ,  is  levied  at 
the  inn  for  the  construction  of  the  path. 

The  road  descends  the  Kirchet  in  long  windings,  which  the 
pedestrian  may  avoid,  traverses  the  rich  meadows  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley,  and  crosses  to  the  r.  bank  of  the  Aare  near 
(IV4  hr.)  Im-Hof  (20540  (*H6tel  Im-Hof,  R.  IV2,  B.  11/2, 
A.  3/4  fr.),  the  principal  village  in  the  parish  of  InnertkircheUy 
where  the  Susten  (p.  131)  and  Jochpass  (p.  129)  routes  diverge 
to  the  E. 

A  visit  to  the  Urbaehthal ,  which  opens  here  towards  the  S.W. ,  as 
far  as  the  huge  Gauli  Glacier  at  the  head  of  the  valley ,  requires  10—12  hrs.  ^ 
guide  desirable,  in  order  that  the  traveller  may  ascend  the  glacier  and 
obtain  the  most  advantageous  view  of  the  head  of  the  valley  and  the  im- 
posing environs.  The  sides  of  the  valley  consist  of  several  different  regions, 
the  lowest  of  which  is  cultivated.  At  the  foot  of  the  glacier  is  the  MaUeti' 
alp  (6202);  farther  up,  on  the  1.  side,  the  Umenalp.  A  glacier  path  loads 
hence  to  the  r.  over  the  Wetterlimmi  to  the  Rosenlaui  Glacier  (p.  1?4)*, 
another  to  the  I.  over  the  Oauli-Pass  to  the  Lauteraar  Glacier  (p.  135). 
These  are  for  experienced  mountaineers  only,  with  able  guides  {Joh.  Tann- 
ler  and  M.  Nageli  of  Imhof  recommended).  The  Ewig-Schncehom  (10,928') 
is  easily  ascended  from  the  Gauli-Pass  (comp.  p.  136). 

The  carriage-road  in  the  valley  of  the  Aare  terminates  above 
Im-Hof,  and  is  continued  by  a  good  bridle-path.  Refreshments 
are  sold  at  many  of  the  way  -  side  chalets ,  but  occasionally  at 
exorbitant  prices.  At  the  (1  hr.)  end  of  the  first  considerable 
ascent,  excellent  drinking-water  bubbles  up  near  a  waterfall.  The 
path  descends  and  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Aare,  where, 
higher  up  (25  min.)  it  is  carried  through  a  projecting  ridge 
of  rock.  It  next  crosses  several  torrents  which  are  covered 
with  avalanche-snow  in  the  early  summer.  (1/2  lir.)  Jm-Boden 
is  a  small  hamlet  on  a  terrace  of  the  valley  (2933')-  Near  a 
(5  min.)  house,  a  shorter  and  pleasanter  path  traverses  the 
meadows  for  1/4  hr.  Then  (25  min.)  Outtannen  (3441')  (*Bdr, 
R.  IY2J  B.  l*/2,  A.  1/2  ^^-^1  *  poor  village,  the  largest  in  the 
Oberhaslithal ,  situated  in  a  basin  of  considerable  extent.  The 
meadows  are  covered  in  every  direction  with  heaps  of  stones, 
brought  down  by  torrents,  and  collected  in  order  to  prevent  in- 
jury to  the  grass. 

Beyond  Guttannen  (1/2  ^'0  ^  bridge  spans  the  wild  and  foam- 
ing  Aare  (Tachingelbrueke ,    3806').     The   valley   contracts,  and 


134      Route  30.     FALL  OF  THE  HANDEOK. 

barren  black  rocks  rise  on  the  r.  Huge  masses  of  loose  stones 
deposited  on  the  less  precipitous  slopes  testify  to  the  power 
of  avalanche  and  torrent.  On  the  r.  the  Weiss  -  Glacier  dis- 
charges its  waters  into  the  valley.  Patches  of  snow  are  oc- 
casionally visible  on  the  mountain -tops.  The  (*/2  l*'-)  f*©^* 
bridge  across  the  Aare  is  the  Schwarzbrunnenbriieke  (3976')", 
10  min.  beyond  it,  after  the  first  short  ascent,  there  is  a  spring 
of  good  water  on  the  r.  The  Aare  becomes  more  rapid,  and 
here  forms  a  small  waterfall.  A  pine -clad  ridge  of  rock  now 
closes  the  valley.  The  paved  path  ascends  over  granite  rocks, 
rounded   and   polished   by  glacier-friction  (comp.  Introd.  XIV). 

Near  two  huts,  at  a  bend  in  the  path  (^/^  hr.  from  the  last 
bridge,  8  min.  before  the  Handeck  inn  is  reached)  a  side-path 
leads  to  the  1.  to  a  platform  with  a  balustrade  (^2  ^'0  i™~ 
mediately  above  the  *^all  of  the  Handeek,  which  precipitates 
itself  in  an  unbroken  mass  into  an  abyss,  250'  in  depth.  Grand 
as  the  spectacle  is  from  this  point,  it  is  still  finer  when  viewed 
from  a  point  reached  by  descending  for  5  min.  to  the  E.  from 
the  Handeck  Inn.  Next  to  the  falls  of  the  Tosa  (p.  144)  and  the 
Rhine  (p.  26),  this  is  the  most  imposing  cascade  among  the  Alps, 
owing  to  its  height,  its  great  volume  of  water,  and  the  wild 
character  of  the  adjuncts.  The  rapidity  of  the  stream  is  so  great 
that  it  falls  unbroken  half  way  to  the  bottom,  and  in  its  rebound 
forms  a  dense  cloud  of  spray  and  vapour,  in  which  rainbows  are 
formed  by  the  sunshine  between  10  and  1  o'clock.  The  silvery 
water  of  the  Erlenbach  falls  from  a  height  to  the  1.  into  the 
same  gulf,  mingling  halfway  down  with  the  grey  glacier  water 
of  the  Aare.  The  approach  to  the  fall  is  easy  and  safe.  The 
best  point  of  view  is  a  projecting  rock  beyond  the  bridge  (boy 
Y2  f^O'  ^^^  chalet  of  the  Handeck  has  been  converted  into  a 
small  Inn  (4649').    Carved  wood  is  sold  here  at  moderate  prices. 

From  the  Handeck  the  traveller  may  (with  an  experienced  guide)  cross 
the  Erlen  Glacier  to  thjB  Urbachthal  (p.  132),  and  follow  the  latter  to  Innert- 
hirchen  (p.  133),  a  walk  of  about  12  hrs. 

The  sombre  pine-forest  becomes  thinner,  and  even  the  dwarf- 
pines  disappear  altogether  a  little  above  Handeck.  The  stony 
soil  is  clothed  with  stunted  grass,  moss,  and  rhododendrons. 
About  ^2  ^^'  i^om.  the  Handeck  the  path  leads  over  rounded 
slabs  of  rock  termed  the  Bose  Seiie  and  the  HahLe  ('slippery') 
Platte^  both  worn  by  glacier  friction.  Opposite  them  the  Qel- 
merbach  forms  a  picturesque  cascade,  descending  from  the  Oel- 
mersee  (5968'),  a  lake  which  lies  on  the  mountain  to  the  1., 
between  the  Oelmerhom  and  Sehaubhom,  and  may  be  visited 
from  the  Handeck  (steep  path). 

The  valley  becomes  narrower  and  more  desolate.  The  path 
frequently  crosses  the  Aare,  now  a  mere  brook.  Vegetation  dis- 
appears almost  entirely.  Between  the  Handeck  and  Grimsel  the 
only   two   human  habitations,    1^/4  hr.  from   the   former,    1  hr. 


GRIMSEL  HOSPICE.         30.  RouU.      135 

from  the  latter,  are  two  rhalets  in  the  Rdterisboden  (5594'), 
the  last  basin  below  the  Grimsel,  which  was  probably  once  the 
bed  of  a  lake,    as  the   two  small  ponds  here  appear  to  indicate. 

The  rocky,  but  well-kept  path  ascends  for  a  short  distance 
through  a  wild  defile,  and  then  becomes  comparatively  level.  It 
at  length  crosses  the  Aare,  turns  to  the  1.,  and  in  ^4  hr.  reaches 
the  OrimMl  Hoipiee  (6148')  {Inn,  R.  2,  A.  IV2,  S-  ^,  A.  3/^  fr.), 
formerly  a  refuge  for  poor  travellers  crossing  the  Grimsel,  and 
now  always  crowded  with   tourists   in   the  height  of  summer. 

This  barren  mountain-basin ,  termed  the  Grimselgrund ,  lies 
987'  below  the  summit  of  the  pass  (p.  136).  Bald  rocks,  with 
perpetual  snow  in  their  crevices,  and  occasional  patches  of  scanty 
herbage  or  moss  form  the  surrounding  scenery.  Beyond  the 
small  and  gloomy  lake ,  which  is  destitute  of  fish,  lies  the  See- 
mdttli,  a  meagre  pasturage,  where  the  cows  of  the  Hospice 
graze  for  one  or  two  months  only. 

The  jagged  mountain  to  the  W.,  above  the  ravine  of  the  Aare,  is  the 
Agasiizhorn  (13,120'),  the  N.  pedestal  of  the  Finster  -  Aarhurn ,  connected 
with  which  on  the  W.  is  the  crest  of  the  Viescherhomer.  The  Fiaater- 
Aarhom  (14,U260f  ^^^  highest  of  the  Bernese  Alps,  is  not  visible  from  the 
Hospice  itself,  but  from  the  Nollen,  a  rocky  eminence  a  few  paces  distant. 
This  giant  of  the  Oberland  was  ascended  for  the  first  time  in  1829 ,  twice 
in  1842,  and  frequently  within  the  last  few  years  by  members  of  the 
English  and  Swiss  Alpine  Clubs.  If  the  ascent  is  made  from  the  Grimsel 
Hospice,  the  night  should  be  spent  in  the  Rothloch  (9203'),  a  kind  of  grotto 
on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Walliaer  liothhoi'n  (11,644').  The  route  thence 
leads  round  the  W.  side  of  the  Finsteraarliorn  to  the  summit  in  6 — 7  hrs. 
If  the  Eggischhorn  be  the  starting-point,  the  night  is  spent  on  the  Fuul- 
herg  (94!W'),  from  which  the  ascent  liess  across  the  Orunhornliicke  (10,843') 
and  the  Viexcher/im.  The  expedition  cannot  be  safely  undertaken  except 
by  experienced  mountaineers  with  able  guide.  —  In  1865  the  Editor  at 
tempted   the  ascent  from  the  £.  side,   but  found  it  impracticable. 

The  Aare  flows  from  two  vast  glaciers  (6158'),  the  Vorder-Aar,  or 
Vnter-Aar  Olacier,  and  the  Ober-Aar  Glacier,  to  the  W.  of  the  Hospice. 
The  latter,  an  ice-field  with  numerous  crevasses,  separated  from  the  Unter 
Aar  Glacier  by  the  Zinkenstocke,  is  5  hrs.  from  the  hospice.  A  tolerable 
bridle-path  leads  in  2  hrs.  to  the  foot  of  the  Unter- Aar  Glacier.  The  pas- 
sage of  the  glacier  itself  is  easy  and  safe.  It  forms  a  continuation  or 
olTshoot  of  the  Finster-Aar  and  Lauter-Aar  Qlaciers.  At  the  junction  of  the 
two  glaciers  rises  a  medial  moraine,  KX^  high  at  places  (see  Introd.  XIV). 
The  valley,  now  termed  the  Aareboden^  extending  from  the  Hospice  to  a 
point  far  above  the  Unter-Aar  Glacier,  was  once  called  the  BUtmlisalp 
(flowery  Alp),  and  consisted  of  rich  pastures ,  which  the  advance  of  the 
glacier  and  the  deposit  of  detritus  from  the  mountain  have  now  entirely 
destroyed. 

The  two  glaciers  of  the  Aare  present  many  attractions  to  those  inter- 
ested in  the  investigation  of  the  theory  of  glaciers.  The  eminent  Swiss 
naturalist  Hugi  caused  a  hut  to  be  built  in  1827  on  the  lower  glacier,  at 
the  foot  of  the  rock  named  '•  im  Ab8chiDung\  which  separates  the  two  glaciers, 
3  hrs.  from  the  Hospice.  This  hut,  moving  with  the  glacier,  had  in  1840 
travelled  to  a  distance  of  2000  yds.  from  the  rock.  On  the  same  glacier 
the  eminent  AgauiZy  then  a  professor  at  Neuchatel,  with  />««or,  Vogt^  Wild^ 
and  other  savants,  spent  a  considerable  time  in  1841  by  desire  of  the  King 
of  Prussia,  and  published  several  interesting  accounts  of  their  observations, 
dated  from  the  "-Hdlel  des  Neuchdtelois\  a  stone  hut  erected  for  protection 
against  wind  and  storm  under  a  huge  block  of  mica-slate  projecting  from 
the  medial  moraine.  The  latest  researches  on  the  subject  have  been  made 
by  M.  Doll/uts-Ausset  of  Mulhausen  in  Alsace,  who  has  erected  a  'pavilion' 


136      Route  30.  GRIMSEL. 

(7835')  on  the  V.  side  of  the  mountain,  opposite  the  Abschwung.  According 
to  his  calculations  the  glacier  advances  85  yds.  per  annum,  that  is  about 
8  in.  per  diem.  The  arm  of  the  glacier  to  the  r.  abounds  in  crevasses, 
that  to  the  I.  is  quite  level. 

The  *Kleiiie  Sidelhom  (9074'),  to  the  S.W.,  is  often  ascended  in  3  hrs. 
from  the  Orimsel  Pass  (guide  necessary,  4  fr.  ^  or  a  boy,  3  fr.).  [The  Grosse 
SideViorn  (9449'),  more  than  double  the  distance  from  the  Hospice,  lies 
towards  the  S.W.]  The  path,  although  steep,  is  generally  good,  but  the 
last  i|4  hr.  is  fatiguing,  owing  to  the  loose  fragments  of  granite  with  which 
the  summit  is  covered.  The  view  is  grand,  but  deficient  in  foreground  and 
vegetation.  Gigantic  peaks  surround  the  spectator  on  every  side ;  to  the 
W.  the  Schreckhorn,  the  Finster-Aarhom,  and  the  Viescherhorn  ^  to  the 
N.E.  the  Galenstock,  from  which  the  glacier  of  the  Rhone  descends;  to 
the  S.  the  Upper  Valais  chain  with  its  numerous  ice-streams,  particularly 
the  Gries  glacier ;  to  the  S.W.,  in  the  distance,  the  Monte  Rosa  chain,  the 
Matterhom,  etc.  The  view  of  the  two  glaciers  of  the  Aare  with  their 
grand  medial  moraine  is  interesting  (comp.  Dill's  Panorama). 

The  ascent  of  the  *Ewig-8chneehorn  (10,928')  presents  little  difficulty 
to  experienced  climbers.  From  the  Grimsel  to  the  DoUfuss  Pavilion  3  hrs., 
across  the  Lauter-Aar  Glacier  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  l^js  hr.,  to  the 
Gauligrat  2  hrs.,  thence  to  the  summit  1  hr.  (comp.  p.  133).  Descent  over 
the  Gauli  Glacier  (p.  133)  to  the  Mattenalp^  where  if  necessary  the  night 
may  be  spent,  3 — 4  hrs. ;  then  through  the  Urbachthal  in  3  hrs.  more  to 
Im-Hofip.  133).     A  safe  excursion  with  a  good  guide. 

From  the  Orimsel  over  the  Oberaarjoch  (10,624')  and  the  Walliser  Viescfier 
Glacier  to  Fiesch  (p.  141),  or  better  to  the  Eggischhorn  (p.  141),  an  expedition 
for  experienced  mountaineers,  14 — 15  hrs.,  two  guides  necessary. 

From  the  Orimsel  by  the  Strahlegg  to  Grindelwald  ^  see  p.  120;  by  the 
Lauteraarjoch^  see  p.  120.  —  From  the  Grimsel  to  the  Furca  direct,  over 
the  Rhone  Glacier^  see  p.  138. 

A  steep  bridle-path,  partly  paved,  and  indicated  by  stakes, 
winds  up  the  pass  of  the  Orimsel  (7103'),  which  connects  the 
valley  of  Oberhasli  with  the  Upper  Valais.  At  (1  hr.)  the  summit 
of  the  pass  (Hauseck)^  the  boundary  between  Bern  and  Valais,  the 
snow   seldom  entirely  melts.     The  small  Todtensee  (Make  of  the 

dead')  lies  on  the  S.  side  of  the  pass. 

In  the  summer  of  1799  this  lake  was  used  as  a  burial-place  by  the  Aus- 
trians  and  French.  The  former,  with  the  Valaisians,  had  entrenched  them- 
selves on  the  Grimsel,  having  extended  their  outposts  as  far  as  the  first 
bridge  over  the  Aare.  All  the  attempts  of  the  French,  who  were  stationed 
at  Guttannen  under  Oudin^  to  drive  the  Austrians  from  this  position  were 
ineffectual.  A  peasant  of  Guttannen,  however,  named  Fahner^  at  length 
conducted  a  small  detachment  over  the  (^elmerhorn,  Doltihorn,  and  Gersthorn, 
to  the  Grimsel,  where  they  attacked  the  Austrians,  and  after  an  obstinate 
conflict  compelled  them  to  retreat  into  the  Valais  or  towards  the  Hospice. 
The  French  presented  their  guide,  at  his  request,  with  the  Raterisboden 
(p.  134),  as  a  reward  for  his  services,  but  the  government  of  Bern  cancelled 
the  gift  a  few  months  later.  The  crest  from  which  the  French  poured  down 
upon  the  Grimsel,  on  the  N.  of  the  Pass,  is  termed  NagelVs  Gratli  (9180"). 

Before  the  summit  of  the  Pass  is  reached,  the  direct  path  to 
Obergestelen  in  the  Valais  (p.  140)  diverges  to  the  r.  from  the 
Furca  route,  and  leads  towards  the  S.,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Todtensee.  The  Furca  route  leads  to  the  E.,  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  lake,  descends  the  Maienwand,  a  precipitous  grassy  slope 
1600'  in  depth,  carpeted  with  rhododendrons  and  other  Alpine 
plants,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  Rhone  Glacier  and  Galen- 
stock,  and  in  1^4  hr.  reaches  the  Rhone  Glacier  Hotel  (see 
below)  on  the  Furca  road, 


137 


31.    From  the  Ehone  Olacier  to  Andermatt. 

The  Fnrca. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  76. 

21  H.  Diligence  daily  (about  noon)  in  4'(2  hrs.,  coupe  8  fr.  10  c, 
interieur  7  fr.  15  c.  —  One-horse  carriage  26,  two-horse  40  fr.  \  to  Amstep;  40  or 
65,  Fluelen  45  or  75  fr.  —  Distances  for  walkers :  from  the  Rhone  Glacier 
to  the  Furca  2i(&  (descent  11/2),  Realp  2^2  (ascent  3ij-{),  Hospenthal  i^^2^ 
Andermatt  >|2  hr.  —  Horse  from  Realp  to  the  Furca  8,  to  the  Alplauch 
Refuge  5  fr. 

The  new  *  Fnrca  Road  ^  constructed  principally  for  military  pur- 
poses, is  traversed  by  a  diligence  in  summer  (once  daily  from  Andermatt 
to  Brieg ,  and  vice  versa,  in  12  hrs. ,  halting  for  dinner  at  the  Rhone 
Glacier*,  coupe  21  fr.  90,  interieur  18  fr.  90  c.).  It  commands  striking  views 
of  the  Rhone  Glacier,  the  Galenstock,  Spitzberg,  etc.,  and  is  strongly  rec(»m- 
mended  to  the  notice  of  pedestrians.  The  bridle-path  is  shorter,  but 
destitute  of  view. 

The  *BhO]ia  Olaeior,  imbedded  between  the  Oelmtthom  and 
Gersihom  (10,450')  on  the  W. ,  and  the  Galemtock  (11,805') 
on  the  E.,  extends  in  a  terrace-like  form  to  a  distance  of  15  M., 
somewhat  resembling  a  gigantic  frozen  waterfall,  and  overlooked 
by  the  Galenstock.  At  its  base  Um  Gletteh^  is  the  *H6tel  du 
Glacier  du  Rh6ne,  where  travellers  from  the  Grimsel,  the  Furca, 
and  the  Rhone  Valley  frequently  halt  for  dinner  (R.  2,  B.  2V25 
D.  31/2 — ^,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.). 

Guides  (tariff  of  1870):  Galenstock  (6  hrs.)  15  fr. ;  Gries  Pass  to  the 
Tosa  Falls  (9  hrs.)  20  fr.  ^  summit  of  the  Grimsel  (1>|4  hr).  5,  porter  4  fr.  \ 
Grimsel  Hospice  (2  hr?.)  6  or  5  fr. ;  Handeck  (4  hrs.)  8  or  7  fr.  ^  Meiringen 
(9  hrs.)  16  or  14  fr. ;  Furca  (2i|2  hrs.)  4,  to  Andermatt  (7  hrs.)  12  fr. 

In  some  seasons  a  i^rey  torrent  of  snow-water  issues  from  a 
lofty  cavern  of  ice  in  the  Rhone  Glacier.  This  is  the  Rhone 
(5751'),  the  Rhodanus  of  the  ancients,  \*hich  was  said  to  issue 
'from  the  gates  of  eternal  night ,  at  the  foot  of  the  pillar  of  the 
sun',  the  infant  stream  which  gradually  becomes  a  mighty  river, 
and  eventually  discharges  itself  into  the  Mediterranean  after  a 
course  of  five  hundred  miles.  The  inhabitants  of  the  valley 
give  the  name  of  Rotten  or  Rkodan  to  three  warm  springs  which 
rise  at  the  back  of  the  hotel,  to  the  1.  of  the  post  station,  and 
regard  them  as  the  true  source  of  the  river.  These  streams 
bubble  up  in  a  round  stone  basin,  and  mingle  with  the  glacier- 
stream  a  short  distance  from  their  source.  —  A  visit  to  the 
Ice  Grotto  artificially  hewn  in  the  glacier,  1/4  hr.  from  the  hotel, 
is  recommended  (admission  ^2  fr-  J  umbrella  desirable). 

The  new  Furca  Road  crosses  the  infant  Rhone  close  to  the 
hotel,  and  then  ascends  in  long  windings  on  the  £.  side  of  the 
valley.  Pedestrians  should  follow  the  old  bridle-path  which  di- 
verges to  the  1.  beyond  the  bridge,  outs  off  the  first  windings 
of  the  road,  and  rejoins  it  in  V2  hr-  (or  pass  the  ice-cavern 
mentioned  above,  cross  the  flat  tongue  of  the  Rhone  Glacier,  and 
regain  the  road  in  ^/4hr.,  an  easy  and  safe  walk  with  a  guide). 
The  road  slowly  ascends  the  slope  of  the  Ldngiegrat,  enters  after 


138     RouU  31.  PURCA. 

Y4  hr.  the  valley  descending  from  the  Furca,  and  crosses  the 
Muttbach,  the  discharge  of  the  Qratschhtcht-Olacierj  which  flows 
under  the  Rhone  Glacier  and  forms  one  of  the  sources  of  that 
river. 

The  old  path,  destitute  of  view,  here  ascends  rapidly  to  the 
r.  to  the  pass.  The  new  road  turns  sharply  to  the  1.  and  ascends 
in  long  windings,  high  above  the  Rhone  Glacier,  commanding 
admirable  views  of  its  lofty  and  fantastic  pinnacles,  especially 
from  the  second  and  third  bend.  From  the  highest  winding, 
near  the  GaLenhuiten  (7897'),  another  line  retrospect  is  obtained, 
including  the  Bernese  and  Yalaisian  Alps,  the  Finsteraarhorn, 
Schreckhorner,  Weissmies,  and  Mischabel.  To  the  r.  is  the 
Mutthorn  (10,181'),  with  the  dirty-looking  Gratschlucht-Glacier. 
(From  this  point  the  Furca  Hotel  is  3/4  M.  distant.) 

After  a  moderate  walk  of  2^/2  ^^'  ^^om  the  Rhone  Glacier 
Hotel  (the  diligence  takes  2  hrs.),  the  summit  of  the  Fnroa 
(7992')  is  attained  (^Hdtel  de  la  Furca,  R.  2,  B.  IV2,  S.  3, 
L,  and  A.  1  fr^.  The  pass,  which  is  seldom  entirely  free  from 
snow,  descends  abruptly  on  both  sides,  and  lies  between  two 
peaks,  somewhat  resembling  the  prongs  of  a  fork  (furca).  View 
(not  so  fine  as  might  be  expected  from  the  height)  of  the 
Bernese  Alps,  of  which  the  Finsteraarhorn  is  the  most  pro* 
minent. 

An  excursion  to  the  central  ^Furkahom  (9934')]  is  recomroended.  The 
ascent  (Qij?  hrs.)  presents  no  difficulty  (guide  advisable,  4  fr.  and  gratuityj, 
leading  across  pastures,  detritus,  and  patches  of  snow.  Admirable  pano- 
rama of  the  Alps  of  Bern  and  Valais,  the  Galenstock,  the  St.  Gotthard 
group,  etc. 

Ascent  of  the  Ghdenstook  (11,806')  4  hrs.,  for  experienced  mountaineers 
only,  with  an  able  guide  (18  fr.  1  two  required  for  the  less  experienced) ; 
1  hr.  over  grass  and  moraine,  1  hr.  on  hard  ice,  3  hrs.  over  snow  with 
the  rope.  Imposing  view.  The  descent  may  be  made  across  the  Rhone 
Glacier  and  over  l^ageli's  Gratli  to  the  Grimsel  Hospice  (see  below). 

To  the  N.W. ,  between  the  Galenstock  and  the  Gletschhom  (10,8600, 
descends  the  Tie/engUUcher,  where  beautiful  crystals  were  found  in  1868. 
The  grotto  which  once  concealed  these  treasures,  at  the  base  of  the  Gletsch- 
hom, is  difficult  of  access,  and  requires  a  guide.  The  weight  of  the  crystals 
found  here  (clouded  topaz)  amounted  to  12 — 16  tons.  The  most  beautiful 
specimens  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Bern  (p.  97). 

To  the  Orimsel  Hospice  (p.  136).  Pedestrians  may  descend  from 
the  Furca  Inn  to  the  Rhone  Glacier  in  i|s  hr.,  cross  it  above  the  ice-fall, 
and  descend  by  NdgeWt  OrUtli  to  the  Hospice  (4  hrs.,  guide  necessary). 
The  path  descends  to  the  N.  end  of  the  small  lake  (p.  136),  which  may  be 
crossed  by  boat. 

The   Old  Path  now   descends  rapidly  into  the  Oarsckenthal, 

and  traverses  monotonous  pastures,  interesting  to  botanists  only. 

On  the  Siedelnalp  and  Waaseralp  especially,  numerous  species  of 

Alpine  plants  are  found.     The  New  Road  skirts  the  lofty  N.  side 

of  the  valley.     To  the  1.  is  seen  the  Siedeln  Oladety  the  discharge 

of  which  forms  a  picturesque  fall   near  the  road;   adjacent  to  it 

rise  the  shai^  pinnacles  of  the  Biihlenstoek ;  farther  to  the  1.  is 

the  Tiefen  Olacier.     The  Tiefentobel  is  then  crossed  to  the  Alp^ 


OBERWALD.  32.  RouU,      139 

lauch  Refuge  (good  Italian  wine),  the  only  house  between  the 
Furca  and  Realp.  On  the  (IV4  M.)  Ebneien  Alp  (6831')  begin 
the  long  windings  by  which  the  road  descends  into  the  Urseren 
Valley  (see  below),  and  which  the  pedestrian  may  avoid  by 
taking  the  old  path.  A  fine  survey  of  the  broad  valley  is  now 
enjoyed ;  in  the  background,  above  Andermatt,  are  the  zigzag 
lines  of  the  Oberalp  route  (R.  76).  In  descending,  pedestrians 
quit  the  road  a  few  hundred  paces  beyond  the  50th  kilom.- 
stone  by  several  steps  on  the  1. ;  in  ascending,  it  is  left  50 
paces  beyond  the  first  bridge,   1/4  hr.  from  Realp. 

At  Bealp  (5059'),  a  poor  hamlet,  the  Capuchin  Father  Hugo 
presides   over  his   modest  *Ho8pi%  Realp  (good  wine;  R.  1,  B. 

I  fr.).  Adjacent  is  the  *H6Ul  des  Alpea  (R.  1,  B.  i,  D.  2^/^  fr.). 
(Route  by  the  AlpigUn-Lucke  to  the  Goaehenen-Alp^   see  p.  ^9). 

The  Urseren,  or  Umer-Tlial ,  is  a  sequestered  valley  with 
excellent  pastures,  9  M.  long,  8/4  M.  wide,  watered  by  the 
ReusSy  and  enclosed  between  mountains  partially  covered  with 
snow.  Beyond  Realp  the  road  crosses  the  Lochbachy  the  £.  dis- 
charge of  the  Tiefen  Glacier  (on  the  N.  rises  the  Lochhetg^  9400'; 
see  p.  79)  and  the  Reuss,  reaches  (IY4  M.)  the  Alp  Steinberg ^ 
and  then  leads  straight  across  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  overgrown 
with  brushwood,  to  (2^/2  M.)  Zumdorf.  To  the  1.  in  the  fore- 
ground, on  the  N.  side  of  the  valley,  tower  the  serrated  peaks 
of  the  SpUzberg  (10,049').  From  this  point  to  (2  M.)  Hospen- 
thal  (4800')  (see  p.  81),  on  the  St.  Gotthard  route,  the  road 
follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Reuss.  Thence  by  the  St.  Gotthard 
road  to  (IV2  M.)    Andermatt  (4737'),  see  p.  80. 

32.  From  the  Ehone  Olacier  to  Vispach.  Egg^chhorn. 

351 12  M.  Diligence  to  Brieg  (31  M.)  once  daily  (in  the  aftemuon)  in 
5  hrs.  (to  Miinster  l^ls,  Fiesch  U\a,  Brieg  1S(4  hr.)i  coupe  13  fr.  20c.,  interieur 

II  fr.  75  c.  (in  the  reverse  direction  the  journey  takea  7  hrs.).  From  Brieg 
to  Vispach  (4'(2  M.)  diligence  twice  daily  in  3J4  hr.  Carriages:  From  the 
Rhone  Glacier  to  Fiesch  one-horse  20,  two-horse  50  fr.  ^  to  Vispach  35  or 
60,  Sierre  55  or  90  fr.  This  road  (Furca  route,  comp.  p.  1^7)  has  been  a 
diligence  route  since  1867,  and  will  hardly  repay  the  pedestrian. 

Those  who  have  seen  the  Rhone  Glacier  may  proceed  from  the  Grimsel 
direct  to  Obergestelen,  by  the  path  which  at  the  top  of  the  pass  turns 
to  the  r.  (leaving  the  Todtensee  on  the  1.)  and  descends  the  wooded  slopes 
to  the  village  in  2i|4  hrs. 

A  short  distance  from  the  Rhone  Glacier  Hotel  (p.   137)  the 

road    crosses  the   Rhone,    which  careers   far    below  through   its 

rocky   ravine ,    and   descends   in   long  windings ,    commanding  a 

more  open   view    than  the  old  route,   to    (3Y2  M.)  Oberwald 

(4455')  (*H6tel    de    la    Furca,    R.    i%    B.    II/2   fr.),    at  the 

bottom  of  the  yalley  of  the  Upper  Falats,    a  broad  expanse  of 

pasture-land,    studded    with    houses   and   hamlets,    enclosed   by 

monotonous   cliains   of  mountains,    and   watered   by  the   Rhone , 

which   is   seldom   visible.      In   front   rises   the    Weiasfiorny.  with 


140     Route  32.  OBERGESTELEN.  The  Upper 

its  dazzling:  snow-pyramid ;  behind  the  traveller  the  white  Galen- 

atock,  and  to  the  r.  the  Mutthorn.     The  valley  consists  of  three 

regions,  the  upper  extending  to  Fiesch,  the  second  to  the  bridge 

of  Grengiols,    and   the  third  below  this  bridge.     The  inhabitants 

(Rom.  Oath.)  speak  German;  the  French  language  begins  to  prevail 

near  Sion  (p.  253). 

Through  the  wild  and  narrow  Oerenthal^  which  here  opens  to  the 

E.  of  Oberwald ,   a   fatiguing  but  interesting   pass  crosses  the  Kuhhoden- 

Glacier  to  All  'Acqua  in   the   Val  Bedretto  (see  below)  in  8  hrs.  (guide 
necessary). 

At  (2  M.l  Obergestelen  (4452'),   French  Haut-ChdtiUon,  the 

routes  from  the  Grimsel,  Furca,  Nufenen  (see  below),  and  Gries 

(p.  143)  unite.     The  village  was  entirely  burned  down  in  Sept., 

1868,  with  the   exception  of  three  houses,    but  has   since   been 

rebuilt  (tavern,   where  a  bed  may  be  procured). 

To  Airolo  by  the  Nufenen  Pass  (9  hrs.),  a  rough,  uninteresting 
bridle-path,  guide  necessary.  Beginning  of  the  route,  see  p.  143.  At  Alt- 
staffel,  before  the  Gries  Glacier  is  reached,  the  path  leads  to  the  1.  and 
crosses  the  (3'|a  hrs.)  Nuf^nen-Fass  (or  Col  de  Nov^ne^  8005'),  the  boundary 
between  the  cantons  of  Valais  and  Ticino,  into  the  Val  Bedretto^  where 
Italian  is  spoken.  Immediately  below  the  pass  rises  the  Ticino^  which 
the  path  follows,  first  on  the  r.,  and  then  on  the  1.  bank,  as  far  as  the 
(13|4  hr.)  Hoapice  all'  Aoqua  (5266')  (Ion  poor),  whence  another  path  crosses 
the  Pass  of  S.  Giacomo  to  the  Tosa  Falls  (see  p.  144).  The  lofty  situ- 
ation of  the  Val  Bedretto  renders  it  barren  and  unfruitful.  Winter  lasts 
at  least  six  months,  and  even  in  summer  it  sometimes  freezes  at  night. 
The  slopes  of  the  mountains  are  clothed  with  wood  and  pasture,  and 
crowned  with  glaciers  and  perpetual  snow.  Avalanches  are  frequent  in 
spring  and  winter,  often  leaving  their  snow  on  both  banks  of  the  Ticino 
as  late  as  September,  (lijje  hr.)  Bedretto  (4610'),  the  principal  place  in  the 
valley.  On  7th  Jan.,  1863,  tUe  W.  part  of  the  village  was  destroyed  by  an 
avalanche,  and  28  of  the  inhabitants  perished.  The  next  place  is  (20  min.) 
Villa.  Near  (20  min.)  Ossasco  (4367')  the  road  crosses  to  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Ticino.  Fontana  (20  min.)  is  next  reached,  and  then  (1  hr.)  Airolo  (p.  83), 
2  hrs.  from  Bedretto. 

IV2  M.  TJlrichen,  or  VrUchen  (4390')  (*mtel  du  Olacier  de 
Gries)y  a  village  with  a  tapering  spire,  lies  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Valley  of  Eginen  (p.  143).  Then  Oesehenen  (4396')  and 
(4  M.  from  Obergestelen)  Muniter  (4527')  {Goldenes  Kreuz  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  village ;  Hdtel  Eggiachhom ;  one-horse  carr. 
to  Brieg  20,  to  Vispach  25  fr.  and  gratuity),  the  principal  vil- 
lage in  the  valley.  Beautiful  view  from  the  loftily- situated 
chapel. 

The  ^LttffeUioni  (10,138')  is  ascended  from  Miinster  (fatiguing,  5  hrs., 
guide  6  fr.)  across  snow  and  granite-rocks;  view  similar  to  that  from  the 
Eggischhorn,  with  the  addition  of  the  Finster-Aarhom  in  the  foreground. 

The  next  villages,    Reclungen^    with   the   handsomest  church 

in   the   valley,    at  the  mouth  of  the  BUnnen-Thcd ^    Oluringeriy 

Riizingen  (Posti ,  Biel,  Selkingen ,  and  BUtzingen  are  almost  con> 

tiguous.     At  (41/2  M.)  Kiederwald  (4114')  (Zum  Outen  Freund) 

delicious  water   bubbles  up  abundantly  under  a  covering  by  the 

road-side.     Beyond  Niederwald  the  Rhone  forces  its  passage  to  a 

lower  region  of  the  valley. 


Valais.  FitlSCfl.  32.  Route.      141 

41/2  M.  Fiesoh,  or  Viesch  (3A6S')  (HoUldu  Glacier  de  Viesch; 

Hdtel  des  Alpes;   at  both  R.  2,  B.  11/2?  D.  or  S.  3  fr,;    one-horse 

carr.  to   Brieg  10,  Vispach  20,    Obergestelen    14,   Oberwald    15, 

Rhone  Glacier  20   fr.),    a   thriving  village  in  a  grand   situation, 

overshadowed   by   the    ViescJier  Homer   (the   highest  of  which  is 

the  Orosse   Wannehorriy   12,812'),  and  near  the  base  of  the  two 

arms   of  the    Viescher    Glacier   (not  to    be    confounded   with   the 

glacier  of  that  name  at  Grindelwald,  p.  119). 

Bp  the  Albrun- Pass  to  Premia  or  Andermatlen  in  the  Val 
Foriuazza  (p.  144)  from  Fiesch,  or  from  Lax  (11 — 12  hrs.,  guide  from  Ira- 
fe]d  desirable,  10  fr.).  From  Lax  a  good  new  bridle-path  leads  by  i^j*  hr.) 
Ausserbinn  (4337')  to  (I'j^  hr.)  Binn  (4718'),  a  village  (beds  at  the  cure's)  in 
the  Binnen-Thal,  interesting  to  mineralogists  (the  *Bettlihom,  9728',  as- 
cended hence  without  difficulty  in  5  hrs..  commands  an  admirable  view  ^ 
guide  necessary).  Then  *|4  hr.  Imfeld  (5i44'),  beyond  which  the  path  is 
indiiTerent  (guide  advisable)  j  >|4  hr.  pine-forest,  3/4  hr.  chalets,  I'fi  hr.  last 
chalet,  1  hr.  summit  of  the  Pass  {Colle  dTArhola^  7907'),  the  latter  part 
of  the  way  stony,  between  the  Ofenhorn  {Punta  d'Arbola,  10,636')  on  the 
1.  and  the  Albrunhorn  (9449')  on  the  r.  Then  descend  to  the  (1  hr.)  Benli- 
Alp^  and  thence  either  proceed  down  the  valley  past  the  (1  hr.)  Logo  di 
Codelago,  and  through  the  Val  Devera  by  Crempiolo  and  Al  Ponte  (see 
below)  to  (4  hrs.)  Premia  (p.  144)  \  or  ascend  to  the  highest  Alp  Fomo, 
cross  the  CoUe  di  Vanin  (fine  retrospect  of  the  Val  Devera  and  the  lake 
of  Codelago)  by  a  bad  path ,  pass  the  Logo  di  Lebendun  and  descend  the 
valley  of  that  name  to  (3)|2  hrs.)  Andermatten  (p.  144).  —  The  Tosa  Falls 
may  be  reached  from  the  Lebendun  Lake  direct  by  crossing  the  glacier- 
clad  Nafelgiu  Pass  to  the  1.,  and  following  the  Niifelgiu  Valley  to  Morast 
and  Auf  der  Fruth  (p.  143),  a  walk  of  13  hrs.  from  Lax. 

i  From  Fiesch    to    Iselle    by    the  Passo    del    Boccu  1  pccio  (or 

Bitter  Pass)^  a  fatiguing,  but  very  interesting  expedition  (12 — 13  hrs.); 
able  guide  necessary.  The  route  at  first  leads  through  the  Binnen-Thal  (see 
above),    from  which,    iji  hr.  before  Binn  is  reached,   it  diverges  to  the  r. 

'  and  ascends  through  the  Ldng-Thal  in  7i|2  hrs.  to  the  pass  (8832')  between 

the  (r.)  Hilllenhorn  (9679')  and  the  (1.)  Helsenhorn  (10,74r)  (the  latter  may  be 
ascended  without  much  difficulty  *,  magnificent  panorama)  \  then  a  fatiguing 
descent  of  I'j-j  hr.  to  the  Alp  Diveglia  (quarters  for  the  night,  if  necessary) 
in  the  Val  Cherasca^  and  through  the  latter  by  Trasquora  to  Jselle  (p.  259). 
From  Fiesch  to  Premia  by  the  Kriegalp  Pass  (or  Passo 
della  Cornera)^  fatiguing,  and  of  no  great  interest  (12 — 13  hrs.);  guide 
necessary.  The  route  ascends  the  Kriegalp- Thai  y  a  lateral  valley  of  the 
Lang-Thai,  in  7  hrs.  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Kriegalpstock  (fine  view  of  the  Helsenhorn ,  the  ascent  of  which  is  more 
difficult  from  this  point  than  from  the  Kitter  Pass,  above  mentioned) 
Descent  to  Al  Ponte  (3273'),  and  by  the  Val  Devera  to  Premia  in  the 
Val  Antigorio  (p.  144).  —  Another  pass  from  Fiesch  to  Premia  (9 — 10  hrs., 
with  guide,  interesting  route)  is  the  Qeisspfad  Pass  (or  Bo  ecu  Ross  a). 
At  Imfeld  (see  above)  diverge  to  the  r.  from  the  Albrun  route  to  the  Mes- 
sernalp  (6174'),  and  ascend  past  the  Oeissp/ad-See  (7972')  to  the  summit  of 
the  pass  (SiTff).  Then  a  somewhat  steep  descent  to  Al  Pontes  where  the 
path  unites  with  the  Kriegalp  route  (see  above). 

Very  interesting  excursion  from  Viesch  to  the 

*£ggi8chlioni. 

The  *Eggiscfihom  (9649')  (from  Fiesch  4«|a,  descent  3»|2,  or  by  the 
'sliding-route"'  2»|2  hrs. ;  bridle-path  nearly  to  the  summit,  horse  10  fr.  and 
fee),  is  a  lofty  isolated  peak,  commanding  a  magnificent  prospect  (3  hrs.  as 
far  as  the  inn,  guide  unnecessary).  The  path  crosses  the  stream  which 
drains  the  Fiesch  Glacier,  ascends  to  the  r.  past  several  houses,   and  then 


►i 


1 


142     Route  32. 


EGGISCHHORN. 


leads  through  wood,  beyond  which  the  inn  is  visible  above  to  thf 

to  the  1.,  through  an  enclosure  of  chalets  \  5  min.,  to  the  1.,  then 

past  two  huts.    The  *H6tel  ei  Pension  Jungfrau  (TISCK)  (R.  and  B.  t 

d"'h6te  4,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.),  two-thirds  of  the  way  up,  is  well  a'dao'^  J^iM/kt, 

prolonged  stay ;  beautiful  flora,  especially  violets  and  gentians,    ill  ^^fiott^ 

path  extends  to  within  '|4  hr.  of  the  summit,  which  is  finally  r< 

crossing  loose  rocks  (for  inexperienced  walkers  a  guide  is  desiraB 

from  the  hotel).    The  summit  is  a  pyramid  of  rock,   covered   wi 

masses  of  stone ,  and  surmounted  h^.  a  wooden  cross.    Immediate 

the  spectator  lies  the  small  dark  green  Merjelen-See  CHKy),  in  whii 

of  ice  frequently  float.    The  whole  of  the  Aletsch  Glacier  is  visibl 

long),  the  most  extensive  among  Ihe  Alps,  and  to  the  r.  the  Fiescbl 

Of  the  innumerable  mountain  peaks ,  the  most  prominent  are 

the  Galenstock,  Ober-Aarhorn,  Finster-Aarhorn  \  in  front,  the  Eiger^ 

and  Jungfrau  ;  to  the  I.,  the  Aletschhom  (13,773'),  which  next  to  thei 

Aarhorn  is  the  highest  peak  N.  of  the  Rhone  i  more  to  the  S.  th< 

horn ,   the  conspicuous  Matterhorn ,   Mischabel ,  and  Dom  (Monte 

concealed  by  the  Mischabel).    A  still  more  distant  snow-peak  is  sai 

the  Bosse  de  Dromadaire  of  Mont  Blanc.    The  view  embraces  a  gi 

of  the  Simplon  route  with  the  Hospice,   and  the  valley  of  St. 

(p.  267).    Consult  the  panorama. 

The  traveller  intending  to  descend  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  mi 
the  path  to  Ltue  (see  below),  turning  to  the  r.  near  the  chalets  bel 
hotel.    The  following  route  is,  however,   preferable:   from   the  Ji 
Hotel  the  path  leads  nearly  at  the  same  level  for  some  distance,  high: 
the  Rhone  (beautiful  views),  over  the  Betten  Alp^  with  its  small  lakeii 
abounding  in  fish)  in  22|4  hrs.  to  the  Rieder  Alp  (6388'),  where  thei 
small  inn  (*Sepibus)y  and  by  Ried  (3940')  down  to  Mdrel  (see  beloi 
cent  from  Morel  to  the  Rieder  Alp,  2^2  hrs.).  —  An  interesting  route 
the  Rieder  Alp ,  afibrding  varied  and  magnificent  views ,   first  ascei 
mountain  (Furka)  towards  the  W.  for  ^It  hr.,   then  descends  precipi 
to  the  (li|2  hr.)  Aletsch  Glacier,  crosses  this  at  a  perfectly  safe  place 
versed  even  by  horses,  in  ijz  hr.,  and  ascends  in  1  hr.  more  to  the 
Bellalp  (6732')  (pension  6  fr.),  beautifully  situated;  bridle-path  the 
Brieg  (3  hrs.),  see  p.  256. 

From    the    Eggischhorn    to  Qrindelwald   by  the    Yteseht, 
Eigerjochy  Mdnchsjoch,   Jungfraujochy  see  p.  120*,   to  the  Grim  a  el 
Oberaarjochy  see  p.  136.  —  From  Lauterhrunnen  to   the  Eg\ 
horn  by  the  Lauinenthory  see  p.  115. 

From  the  Eggiichhorn  to  Kippel  in  the  Ldtschenthal 
by  the  LdtschenlUcke  (10,6X2 ) y   12  hrs.,   with   experienced  guides:    d< 
to  the  Merjelen- See  y   cross  the  Great  Aletsch  Glacier  to  the  Lotschenli 
a  depression  of  the   Ahnengrat,  then  descend   over  the  deeply   fui 
Lotschen- Glacier  to  the  Lotschenthal.  —  Another  interesting  pass 
Lotschenthal  is  by  the  Beichgrat;   from  the  Bellalp  inn  aacend   ovt 
Ober  Aletsch  Glacier  and  Beichfirn  to  the  culminating  point  of  the  Beit 
(11,136'),  between  the  Schienhorn  (12,638')  and  Ldtschthal  Breithorn  (12,4 
then  a  precipitous  descent  (in  all  10  hrs.). 

Beyond  Fiesch  the  road  traverses  the  fertile  valley  for  ai 
21/2  M.,    passing  through  Lax   (3425')   (*Kreuz)   with  its 
spicuous  new  church,  whence  the  Eggischhorn  may  be  ascei 
in  41/2  hrs.,'  and  then  descends  by  numerous  windings  to  the  -i 
'Zum  Engel'  (on  the  r.)   and  the  bridge  of  Qrengiola  (Ordngt 
hrucke)j  commanding  a  fine  view  the  whole  way,  with  the  Wei 
horn  in  the  background.     It  crosses  the  profound  channel  of 
Rhone  by  this  bridge  and  follows    the   rocky  ravine  of  the  ri 
(first  on  its  1.  bank,  afterwards  crossing  to  the  r.  by  the  Kdatt 
baum  bridge)  to  (5  M.)  Morel  (2523')  (Hdtel  Eygischhom). 

The  valley  widens  a  little.    The  river  here  dashes  wildly  ov^ 


1 


OKIES  PASS.  33.  Route.      143 

sharp  fragments  of  slate  rock.  On  a  bold  rock  below  Morel,  which 
almost  blocks  up  the  road ,  rises  the  very  picturesquely  placed 
Mockftuhkirehe.  Near  it,  on  the  Matt,  is  a  road-side  inn.  The 
road  then  crosses  the  Masaa,  which  drains  the  Oreat  Aletsch 
Olacier.  Haters,  a  considerable  village,  surrounded  by  fruit-trees, 
is  commanded  by  the  ruined  castles  of  Wdngarten  and  Supersax 
(auf  der  FLuh). 

The  road  crosses  the  broad,  stony  channel  of  the  Rhone  (2214'), 
and  at  (5  M.)  Brieg  reaches  the  Simplon  route.  Brieg  and  (41/2  M.) 
Yiipach,  see  p.  255. 

33.   From  mrichen  to  Domo  d'Ossola. 

Gries  Pats.     Falli  of  the  Tosa.    Yal  Formaua. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  140. 

18  hrs.  Two  days'  journey,  spending  the  night  at  the  Falls  of  the  Tosa, 
or  at  Andermatten.  Bridle-path  from  Ulrichen,  or  Obereestelen ,  to  the 
Falls  of  the  Tosa  6—7  hrs.  Guide  to  Frutwald  (12,  horse  20  fr.)  or  at  least 
to  Bettelmatt,  advisable.  The  new  road  through  the  Val  Formazza  is 
completed  as  far  as  Andermatten. 

At  Vlriehen  (p.  140)  a  bridge  crosses  the  Rhone  to  (10  miu.) 
Im-Loeh,  at  the  entrance  to  the  geologically  interesting  Eginen- 
Thai  J  crosses  the  Eginenbaeh  above  a  picturesque  waterfall,  leads 
through  larch  wood  and  across  a  stony  tract,  where  the  stillness 
is  only  broken  by  the  whistle  of  the  marmot  or  the  murmur  of 
a  waterfall ,  and  then  traverses  green  pastures ,  with  scattered 
chalets  {Im-Lad,  or  Alistaffel,  6584'),  where  the  ascent  begins. 
(The  Nuf^nen  route  to  Airolo,  p.  140,  diverges  to  the  1.  at  the 
Ladsteg  J  before  this  point  is  reached.)  The  path  next  reaches 
the  level  Ories  Glacier^  and  traverses  it  in  about  20  min.,  being 
here  indicated  by  posts.  The  Ories  Fail  (8025'),  31/2  h's.  from 
Ulrichen,  the  boundary  between  Switzerland  and  Italy,  is  sur- 
rounded by  barren  heights,  and  in  clear  weather  commands  s 
beautiful  view  of  the  Bernese  Alps.  (From  the  Ories  Olacier  a 
little  frequented  path  leads  N.E.  through  the  Val  Como  to  the 
Hospice  aW  Aequo  in  the  Val  Bedretto,  p.  140.) 

The  S.  side  of  the  pass,  as  is  usually  the  case  among  the 
Alps,  is  steeper  than  the  N.  side.  The  narrow  path  at  first 
skirts  the  slopes  to  the  1.  The  Orieabaeh  rises  here  aud  unites 
at  Kehrbachi  (see  below)  with  the  Toaa  (Toee^  or  Toccia),  which 
descends  from  the  Valle  Toggia.  The  upper  part  of  the  Formazza 
valley  consists  of  four  distinct  regions,  each  with  its  summer 
villages,  viz.  Bettamatt  (6348')  in  the  highest,  Moraat  in  the 
second  (the  slope  between  Bettelmatt  and  Morast  is  named  Wallis- 
bachUn),  and  Kehrbachi  (or  A  Rialt)  and  Auf  der  Fruth  (Sulla 
Frua),  on  the  third,  with  a  small  chapel  (5528').  The  latter 
stands  on  the  margin  of  the  fourth  precipitous  slope,  over  which 
the  Toaa,    85'  in  width,    falls  in  three  cascades,    widening  as  it 


144     Rouu  33.  PIt£!MlA. 

descends.  The  *'Fall  of  the  Tota,  or  Cascaia  di  Fruih,  650' 
in  height,  is  one  of  the  grandest  among  the  Alps^  but  is  apt  to 
disappoint  in  autumn  when  the  river  is  low.  The  morning  and 
evening  lights  are  the  most  favourable.  The  environs  are  rich 
in  Alpine  plants.  Immediately  above  the  fall  is  the  unpretending 
*H6i€l  de  la  Cascade  (R.  2,  B.  V/^  fr)- 

From  the  Tosa  Falls  to  Airolo  on  the  St.  Gk>tthard-road ,  8  hrs. 
A  tolerable  bridle-path  from  the  Val  Formazza  to  the  Val  Bedretto,  fre- 
quently difficult  to  trace  (guide  therefore  desirable),  diverges  by  the  chapel 
above  the  falls  to  the  r.  from  the  path  to  the  Qries  Pass,  ascends  the  Valle 
Toggia,  being  at  first  steep,  and  then  traverses  a  grassy  valley,  enclosed 
by  huge  cliflfs,  where  the  whistle  of  the  marmot  is  constantly  heard,  for 
about  1  hr.  The  Fisch-See^  abounding  in  trout,  lies  to  the  r.  The  path 
next  ascends  to  the  (3  hrs.)  8.  Giaeomo  Pais  (TS'TS'),  the  boundary  between 
Switzerland  (Canton  of  Ticino)  and  Italy.  Below  the  pass  on  the  N.  side, 
stands  the  chapel  of  8.  Oiaeomo  (7369^),  where  the  inhabitants  of  the  neigh- 
bouring valleys  assemble  annually  for  worship  on  25th  July.  The  path 
descends  through  a  luxuriant  growth  of  rhododendrons  to  the  Val  Bedretto 
and  the  (i>|4  hr.)  Notice  alV  Acqua  (p.  140).    Thence  to  Airolo^  see  p.  140. 

The  Pis  Baaodino  (10,728')  may  be  ascended  without  serious  difficulty 
from  the  Hotel  de  la  Cascade  in  4  hrs.  (the  landlord  of  the  inn  acts  as 
guide).    Ascent  from  the  E.  side,  see  p.  374. 

Below  the  Tosa  Falls  begins  the  Val  Formazza,  or  Pommat, 
containing  the  villages  (^2  hr.)  Fruihwald  (In  Carmcha)^  Ourf 
(In  OroveUo) ,  Zumsteg  (Al  Pont) ,  with  the  town-hall  and  ar- 
chives of  the  valley,  (1  hr.)  Ajidermatten  (4075')  {^Rossel,  R.  2, 
B.  1^2  ff-)?  ^'  ^^  Chieaa,  with  the  church  of  the  valley;  then 
Siaffelwald  (8.  MiehiUJy  and  finally  Vnterwald  (Foppiano),  3Y2  ^^ 
from  Andermatten,  where  German  is  still  spoken.  Italian  prevails 
lower  down.  Most  of  the  villages  have  both  German  and  Italian 
names. 

From  the  Val  Formazza  by  the  Alhrun  Pan  to  Lax  or 
Fiesch  in  the  Valais,  see  p.  141. 

From  the  Val  Formazza  to  the  Val  Maggia  (p.  374)  a  very 
fatiguing  route,  deficient  in  attraction  (from  Andermatten  to  Cevio  8  hrs., 
not  without  guide) :  from  Staffelwald  a  steep  ascent  of  3  hrs.  to  the  Oriiier 
Furca  (7631',  beautiful  view),  descent  of  lijs  hr.  to  Bozco  (4931'),  also  called 
Crt'n,  or  Ottrin  (Inn),  the  only  German  village  in  the  Canton  of  Ticino. 
From  Bosco  to  Cevio  3*|2  hrs.  —  Bignasco  (''Post),  lies  1  hr.  to  the  N.  of 
Cevio  in  a  magnificent  situation.  Diligence  from  Bignasco  to  Locarno  once 
daily  in  3^4  hrs.,  fare  2  fr.  90  c. 

The  Defile  of  Foppiano  is  imposing.  The  Italian  character 
of  the  climate  gradually  becomes  perceptible,  and  the  soil  is  richly 
cultivated.  The  mica  slate  rocks  beyond  (31/2  M.)  8.  Rocco  (Astl 
wine  at  the  inn)  contain  garnets.  Below  (3  M.)  Premia  (2621') 
(*Agnello,  R.  1,  B.  1,  D.  3  fr. ;  carr.  to  Doma  d'Ossola  10,  to 
Vogogna  20  fr.),  10^2  M.  from  Andermatten,  the  valley  of  the 
Tosa  is  termed  Val  Antigorio,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  among 
the  S.  Alps,  and  enlivened  by  numerous  waterfalls.  (From  Premia 
to  Fleseh  by  the  Kriegalp  or  Geisspfad  Pass^  see  p.  141.) 

The  Italian  custom-house  is  at  (6  M.)  Crodo  (1679')  (Leone 
d'Oro).    The  neighbouring  baths  are  IndiffereDt.     The  road  joins 


MCHLENEN.  34.  RouU,      145 

the  Simplon  route  472  ^-  below  Crodo,  by  the  lofty  bridge  of 
Crevola  (p.  259),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  di  Vedro,  near  the 
GontLuence  of  the  Dweria  and  Tosa.  (3  M.)  Somo  d'Otiola,  see 
p.  259. 

34.   From  Thun  to  Lank  and  Susten  over  the  Oemmi. 

Comp.  ifaps^  pp.  68y  146. 

51  H.  Diligence  in  the  afternoon  from  Thun  to  Frutigen  in  3  hrs., 
returning  in  the  morning  from  Frutigen  in  2^J2  hrs.  One-horse  carr.  from 
Than  to  Wimmis  or  Spiez  8  fr.  —  Steamer  to  Spiez,  see  p.  104  \  from  Spiez 
to  Frutigen  10  M. 

The  Oemmi,  one  of  the  most  imposing  of  the  Alpine  passes,  is  more 
remarkable  for  grandeur  than  picturesqueness.  There  is  a  good  carriage- 
road  as  far  as  Kandersteg  (22'|2  M.);  thence  over  the  Gemmi  to  the  Batlis 
of  Leuk  (S'ja  hrs.)  a  good  bridle-path  (guide  unnecessary)  5  from  the  baths 
a  good  road  descends  to  the  (Tifj  H.)  Rhone  valley. 

The  road  at  first  skirts  the  Lake  of  Thun  (p.  104),  passes 
(3  M.)  Gwait^  where  the  road  to  the  Simmenthal  (p.  152)  diverges 
to  the  r.,  and  crosses  the  Kander  by  a  lofty  bridge.  To  the  r. 
rises  the  slender  tower  of  Strdttligen.  The  Kander  formerly  flowed 
on  the  W.  side  of  Strattligen,  joining  the  Aare  below  Thun, 
where  its  deposits  of  detritus  and  mud  converted  a  fertile  district 
into  a  swamp.  A  canal,  1000  yds.  long,  and  95  yds.  broad,  now 
resembling  a  natural  channel,  was  therefore  cut  through  the  hill 
of  Strattligen  in  1712 — 14,  in  order  to  conduct  the  water  direct 
to  the  lake. 

At  (3  M.)  Moos  a  road  to  Interlaken  diverges  to  the  1.  (comp. 
p.  104).  To  the  1. ,  on  the  lake ,  rises  the  chateau  of  Spiez 
fp.  104).  Opposite  Spiezwyler,  through  which  the  road  leads, 
on  a  height  to  the  r.  of  the  entrance  to  the  Simmenthal,  rises 
the  chateau  of  Wimmis,  at  the  N.  base  of  the  Niesen  (p.  103). 
The  conical  Stockhom  (p.  153)  stands  prominently  forth  from 
the  opposite  mountains  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Simme. 

Near  MfiUenen  (2264^),  or  Mutinen  (V2  M.)  (*Bar,  R.  IV2, 
B.  11/2  >  S.  21/2  fr. ;  Hdtel  Niesen;  several  Pensions),  the  road 
crosses  the  Suldhach,  affording  a  view  of  the  Niesen  from  base 
to  summit.  At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  lies  the  Heustrich-Bad 
(omnibus  to  Thun),  the  water  of  which  resembles  that  of 
Weissenburg  (p.  153).  Good  bridle-path  thence  to  the  Niesen 
(p.  103) 

Fro  MUhlenen  to  Interlaken,  l'2^t  M.,  a  charming  walk. 
Beyond  H  ihlenen  the  road  diverges  from  the  high  road  to  the  r.  and 
ascends  to  the  hilly  district  between  the  Kanderthal  and  the  Lake  of  Thun 
(the  voituriers  prefer  the  longer  route  from  Miihlenen  to  Interlaken  via 
Spiezwyler,  see  above).  The  village  of  (2iJ4  M.)  Aesohi  (2818')  i^B&r;  Zmn 
Nieeen;  pensions  A  la  Vue  des  Alpes  and  Bliiinlualp),  lies  on  a  height, 
commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  lake.  The  road  then  gradually 
descends  to  (5  M.)  Leissigen  (*Steinbock) ,  situated  on  the  lake,  (2  M.) 
Ddrligen  (p.  106),  from  which  Interlaken  (2  M.)  is  reached  by  railway. 

The  Gemmi  route  leaves  the  pretty  village  of  Beichenbach 
(23360  (Bar)  at  the  entrance  of  the  Kimihal  (p.  115)  to  the  1. 

Bjbdskbb,  Switzerland.   6th  Edition.  10 


146     Mouie  34.  KAND^RSTfiG.  Prom  Tkun 

(beautiful  view  of  the  Blumlisalp  to  the  1.),  crosses  the  Kander, 
and,  41/2  M.  from  MiihlSnen,  reaches 

14  M.  Frntigfen  (2716')  (AdUr;  Hotel  de  VHelvitit;  *  Belle- 
vue;  in  aU  R.  IV2— 2,  B.  li/j,  A.  1/2  ^r.),  a  village  in  a  fer- 
tile part  of  the  valley,  on  the  EngsUigenbaeh ,  which  falls  into 
the  Kander  below  the  village.  Beautiful  view  from  the  church, 
of  the  Kanderthal,  the  Balmhorn ,  Bliimlisalp ,  and  Altels ,  and 
of  the  Ralligstocke  (p.  104)  in  the  opposite  direction.  —  Bridle- 
path to  the  Niesen,  see  p.  103. 

The  valley  divides  here ;  the  S.  arm,  through  which  the  Kander  flows, 
leads  to  the  Gemmi,  while  the  S.W.  branch  ascends  into  the  narrow  valley 
of  Adelbodeo.  The  road  to  the  latter  at  first  follows  the  Kandersteg  road, 
crosses  the  EngsUigenbaeh^  then  (i/'z  M.)  turns  to  the  r.,  and  ascends  rapidly 
on  the  r.  bank  of  the  brook  to  (4»|2  hrs.)  Adelboden  (4449')  (rustic  inn  by 
the  church).  At  the  head  of  the  valley  is  a  beautiful  fall  of  the  Engstligen, 
above  it  the  Wildstrubel,  to  the  1.  the  Lohner.  From  Adelboden  a  path, 
marshy  at  places,  leads  over  the  Hafmenmoos  (near  the  highest  point, 
6404' ,  a  chalet)  in  d^js  hrs.  to  Lent  (p.  151) ,  affording  a  beautiful  view, 
during  the  descent,  of  the  upper  Simmenthal,  the  Wildstrubel,  the  Weiss- 
horn,  and  the  Bazli  Glacier. 

From  Adelboden  to  Kandersteg  an  interesting  pass  leads  over 
the  Bonder-Krinden  (7831')  in  6—7  hrs.    Ghiide  necessary. 

Over  the  Strubeleckjoch  to  Sierre  (p.  254)  12—13  hrs. ,  a  difficult 
glacier-pass,  for  skilled  mountaineers  only,  with  good  guides. 

Near  Frutigen  the  road  crosses  the  Engstligenbach,  then  the 
Kander,  near  the  handsome  Tellenburg  (now  a  poor-house),  and 
ascends  on  the  r.  bank.  To  the  r.  (2  M.) ,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Kander,  rise  the  pleasant-looking  church  and  parsonage  of 
Kandergrund  J  3/4  M.  beyond  which  is  the  Inn  of  Bunderbach 
(2880Q.  A  path  to  the  r.,  a  short  distance  from  the  ini|,  leads 
in  1/4  hr.  to  the  *Blaue  See,  a  small  lake  picturesquely  embosomed 
in  wood,  and  remarkable  for  its  deep  blue  colour  (afternoon 
light  most  favourable,  not  worth  visiting  on  dull  days;  the  inn- 
keeper at  Bunderbach  charges  1  fr.  for  the  use  of  the  boat). 
Near  Mittelkolz  (H6tel  Altels)  the  square  tower  of  the  Felsen- 
burg  is  passed. 

71/2  M.  Kandersteg  (3835').  Hotel  Victoria,  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  village;  *Bae,  1J2  M.  farther,  R.  2»|a,  B.  I«j2,  D.  3.  L.  and  A.  1»|2  fr. ; 
Hotel  Gemmi,  between  these  two ,  well  spoken  of ,  R.  and  A.  2*|2  fr.  — 
Guide  (unnecessary)  to  Schwarenbacli  (3,  descent  2  hrs.)  3  fr.  j  to  the  Genuni 
(summit  of  the  pass,  1 ,  descent  »U  hr.)  5  fr. ;  to  the  Baths  of  Leuk  (IWc, 
ascent  2^J2  hrs.)  10  fr.  —  Horse  to  Schwarenbach  10,  to  the  Gemmi  16,  to  the 
Baths  of  Leuk  20  fr. ;  but  riding  should  not  be  attempted  beyond  the  sum- 
mit of  the  pass,  owing  to  the  precipitous  nature  of  the  descent.  Carriage 
to  Frutigen,  one-horse  10,  two-horse  18  fr.  \  Thun,  one-horse  20,  two-horse 
40  fr. ;  Interlaken,  one-horse  25,  two-horse  45  fr. ;  for  the  ascent  from  Fru- 
tigen to  Kandersteg  2  fr.  more  are  demanded  (return  vehicles  may  often 
be  hired  at  a  cheaper  rate). 

A  magnificent  mountain  panorama  is  here  enjoyed :  to  the 
N.E.  the  jagged  Birrenhorn;  to  the  E.  the  glistening  snow- 
mantle  of  the  Blumlisalp  or  Weisse  Frau,  the  magnificent  Dol- 
denhorn,  and  the  barren  Fisistocke;  to  the  S.W.,  between  the 
Ueschinenthal  and  Gasternthal,  the  lofty  Gellihorn.    Opposite  the 


'ariiiHt  a  (il,  Ld .  Wagner. 


tax 


.>ti  ■ 


TLa 


c 


Ceiioh 


*M^' 


\ 


pill  T.E^^lPfP'^ill 


'  M^rttea'wfc 


,^v.-^^., 


to  Levk.  OESGHINEN-THAL.         34.  RouU.      147 

Victoria  Hotel,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  valley,  is  an  old  mo- 
raine, probably  formed  by  the  Blumlisalp  Glacier,  which  is 
now  about  3  M.  distant,  but  once  entirely  filled  the  upper  part 
of  the  valley. 

To  the  E.  lies  the  *OMeUn«ii-Thal,  a  valley  about  4  M.  long,  well 
worthy  of  a  visit  (guide  lijx  fr. ,  unnecessary ;  follow  the  road  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  Oeschinenbach  \  horse  6  fr.)-  It  is  terminated  by  the  OetcMnen- 
See  (5210'),  a  small  lake  1  M.  in  length,  enclosed  by  precipitous  rocks, 
from  which  waterfalls  are  precipitated  (boat  for  the  use  of  visitors).  Above 
the  lake  tower  the  WeitM  Frau^  or  BlUmlinalp  (12,041'),  and  the  Freund- 
hom  (11,060')  and  Doldenhom  (11,965'),  both  ascended  for  the  first  time  fn 
1862  (see  Dr.  Roth's  interesting  description  of  the  expedition,  'The  Dolden- 
hom and  Weisse  Frau'',  London,  18d4).  A  footpath  leads  hence  over  the 
DUndenffrat  into  the  Kienthal^  and  over  the  Sefinem-Furke  to  Lauter- 
brunnen  (p.  115). 

From  Kandersteff  by  the  Ldtschenpasi  to  Tourttmagne 
(in  the  Valais),  see  R.  00. 

From  Kandersleg  over  the  Ttchingel  (Sander)  Glacier  to 
Lauterbrunnen^  a  most  interesting  expedition  of  15  hrs.  incl.  halts 
(7  hrs.  on  the  ice),  for  thorough  mountaineers  only,  with  able  guides 
(90  fr.  each  \  0.  Reiehen^  Fritx  Ogiy  and  Chr.  Hari  are  recommended).  The 
previous  night  may  be  spent  at  Selden  (bed  of  hay) ,  or  better  at  Trach- 
sellauinen  (p.  114).  From  (2  hrs.)  Selden  in  ^li  hr.  to  the  Alpetli  Qlaeier^ 
the  W.  arm  of  the  Kander  GHacier.  Then  a  fatiguing  walk  of  2  hrs.  over 
the  lateral  moraine  on  the  S.  margin  of  the  glacier ;  finally  a  precipi- 
tous ascent  to  the  Kander  Olacier ,  properly  so  called ,  an  interminable  ex- 
panse of  snow  and  ice,  overshadowed  on  tiie  1.  by  the  bold  precipices  of 
the  Bl&mlisalp  (12,041').  Then  a  gentle  ascent  of  l^js  hr.  to  the  base  of 
the  Mutthorn  (9966'),  and  between  the  latter  (r.)  and  the  GaiHchiiUeke  (1.) 
in  2  hrs.  more  to  the  Ttchingeltritty  a  precipice  20(X)'  high ,  skirting  which 
the  route  descends  across  the  Lover  Tschingel  Olacier  {}\'i  hr.)  to  the  (>J2 
hr.)  upper  Steinberg  Alp  (p.  114)  and  (1  hr.)  Trachsellauinen  (p.  114). 

Beyond  Kandersteg  the  road  leads  by  Eggensehwand  to  a 
(11/2^0  bridge  and  the  Bar  inn  (see  above),  beyond  which  it 
contracts  to  a  bridle-path  and  ascends.  The  brook  issuing  from 
the  Vtschintnthal  on  the  r.  forms  some  small  falls.  The  path 
ascends  in  windings  at  the  base  of  the  QeUihom  (7529'),  on  a 
slope  which  apparently  terminates  the  valley,  and  leads  through 
a  pine-forest  at  a  great  height  above  the  valley,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  Gastwnihal  (p.  251)  to  the  1.,  and  the  moun- 
tains enclosing  it.  About  2^2  h^-  ^^om  Kandersteg,  the  chalets 
of  Spitalmatt  (62509,  ^'  Spittdmattf  are  seen  to  the  r.  To  the 
£.,  between  the  snowy  AUeU  (11,923')  and  the  black,  rocky 
peak  of  the  KUine  Rinderhom  (98520  (to  the  S.  of  which  is 
the  snow-clad  Qroase  Rinderhom,  11,372'),  lies  embedded  the 
SchwaTztj  or  Zagen  Olacier.  commanded  by  the  Balmhom  (see 
below).  The  glacier  is  drained  by  the  Sehwartbaeh,  or  Spittel- 
matt  Data.  A  stony  wilderness,  the  scene  of  a  landslip,  is 
next  traversed. 

The  ** Balmhom  (12,100*),  the  highest  peak  of  the  Altels  group,  is 
ascended  from  this  point  without  danger  in  4 — 5  hrs.  (even  by  ladies^ 
guide  necessary).  The  magnificent  panorama  from  the  summit  embraces 
the  Alps  of  Bern  and  the  Valais,  and  extends  to  K.  Switzerland. 

The  (7-2  hr.)  Inn  of  Sohwarenbaoli  (6775')  is  next  reached 

10* 


148     Route  34.  GEMMI.  From  Thun 

(ascent  from  Kandersteg  3,  descent  2  hrs. ;  from  the  inn  to  the 
Baths  of  Leiik  2^2  hrs.). 

After  y2  hr.  the  path  skirts  the  shallow  and  muddy  Dauben- 
see  (72380,  a  lake  1  M.  in  length,  fed  hy  the  waters  of  the 
Lammeren  Glacier  (see  below),  with  no  visible  outlet,  and 
generally  frozen  for  seven  months  in  the  year. 

The  well-constructed  path  leads  on  the  £.  bank  of  the  lake, 
at  some  height  above  it,  to  (10  min.)  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
termed  the  Daube  (7553'),  or  Oeminiy  at  the  base  of  the  Dauhen- 
kom  (9449'),  the  barren  limestone-rocks  of  which  rise  abruptly 
to  the  r.  A  magnificent  *view  of  part  of  the  Rhone  Valley  and 
the  Alps  of  the  Yalais  is  obtained  from  a  slight  eminence  a  few 
min.  from  the  pass,  to  the  1.  of  the  path.  The  lofty  group  of 
mountains  to  the  extreme  1.  are  the  Mischabelhomer ;  more  to 
the  r.  rises  the  huge  Welsshorn,  then  the  Bruneckhom,  the  pyramid 
of  the  Matterhorn,  and  still  more  to  the  r.  the  Dent  Blanche. 
At  a  giddy  depth  below  lie  the  Baths  of  Leuk,  and  beyond 
them  Inden  (p.  150).  On  the  W.  the  moraines  of  the  Lam" 
meren  Olacier  extend  nearly  to  the  pass ;  above  the  glacier  rises 
a  glistening  snow-peak,  and  near  it  the  huge,  rocky  WUdstrubel 
(p.  151).     Rare  flora. 

About  5  min.  below  the  pass  is  a  stone-hut  for  sheep,  on 
the  brink  of  an  almost  perpendicular  rock,  1800'  in  height, 
down  which  the  Cantons  of  Bern  and  Yalais  constructed  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  of  Alpine  routes,  in  1736 — 41,  from  this 
point  to  Leuk  upwards  of  2  M.  in  length,  and  nowhere  less  than 
5'  in  width.  The  windings  are  skilfully  hewn  in  the  rock,  often 
resembling  a  spiral  staircase,  the  upper  parts  actually  projecting 
at  places  4)eyond  the  lower.  The  steepest  parts  and  most  sud- 
den corners  are  protected  by  parapets.  At  a  point  termed  'Im 
Lerch'  the  remains  of  a  wooden  hut,  behind  which  a  cavern  is 
said  to  exist,  are  seen  in  a  now  inacoessible  position  on  a  per- 
pendicular cliff  above  a  rocky  gorge,  where  there  is  a  fine  echo. 
Although  the  path  appears  so  unprotected  when  seen  from  below, 
it  may  be  traversed  with  perfect  safety,  even  by  persons  inclined 
to  giddiness  if  accompanied  by  a  guide  (descent  to  the  Baths  V/^y 
ascent  2V2  hrs.).  The  descent  on  horseback  should  be  avoided.  In 
1861  a  Comtesse  d'Herlincourt  fell  from  her  saddle  over  the  pre- 
cipice and  was  killed  on  the  spot.  Litters  may  also  be  hired  for 
the  passage  of  the  Gemmi.  The  regulations  require  4  bearers  for 
each  litter ;  6  for  a  person  of  more  than  usual  weight,  and  8  for 
a  'poids  extraordinaire'.  The  openings  in  the  walls  of  the  meadows 
at  the  foot  of  the  Gemmi  are  used  to  facilitate  the  counting  of 
sheep. 

The  Baths  of  Leak  (46100,  or  Loeche-Us-Baina.  *H(iTEL 
DEB  Alpes,  with  springs,  and  commanding  a  fine  view;  ^Bellevub;  op- 
posite to  it,  Grand  Bain;  ^Hotbl  x>b  Fkance*,  pension  in  all  9  —  11  fr., 
B.  2»|2  to  4,  B.  l>/2,  table  d'hote  at  11  and  6  o'clock  4,  A.  ija  fr. ;  •Ukioh, 


to  Leuk.  BATHS  OF  LEUK.  34,  RouU.      149 

pension  5  fr. ;  ^Hotkl  Bhdnnbb  (comfortable),  similar  charges ;  Croix 
FikDtRALS,  unpretending^  Maibon  Blamchs.  —  Jlorne  to  Kandersteg  20, 
Schwarenbach  10,  Daube  6  fr.  \  Porter  to  Kandersteg  7 ,  Schwarenbach  5, 
Danbe  4,  foot  of  the  Oemmi  3  fr.  —  Post  Omnibus  from  July  to  15th 
Sept.  twice  daily  from  the  Baths  to  Leuk,  Susten  (5  fr. ,  coup^  6  fr.}, 
and  Sierre  (S  fr. ,  coup^  10  fr.),  descending  in  5i|2,  ascending  in  7  hrs. 
Also  private  omnibuses  of  the  Hotels  des  Alpes  and  Brunner.  —  One-horse 
carriage  to  Susten  14,  Sierre  20,  Vispach  !^,  Brieg  30  fr.  \  two-horse  carr. 
about  one-third  more. 

Loeche-les- Bains,  a  village  consisting  chiefly  of  wooden 
bouses,  with  550  (Rom.  Cath.)  inhab. ,  situated  on  green  pas- 
tures in  a  valley  opening  to  the  S.,  and  watered  by  the  Dala, 
lies  2920'  below  the  Daube  (Gemmi),  and  2590'  above  the 
Rhone.  In  July  and  August  the  Baths,  which  are  locally  known 
as  Baden  ^  or  Ober- Baden  j  are  much  frequented  by  French, 
Swiss,  and  Italian  visitors.  The  massive  embankment  on  the  £. 
side  protects  the  village  against  avalanches.  In  the  height  of  sum- 
mer the  sun  disappears  about  5  p.  m.     The  huge,  perpendicular 

wall   of  the  Gemmi  presents  a  weird  aspect  by  moonlight. 

The  Bprings,  22  in  number,  rising  in  and  near  the  village,  and  so 
abundant  that  nine-tenths  of  the  water  flow  unused  into  the  Dala^  are  chiefly 
beneficial  in  cases  of  cutaneous  disease.  They  vary  in  strength  and  tem- 
perature (93 — 123°),  the  Lorem  Spring  being  the  most  powerful.  Their 
sanitary  properties  appear  to  depend  more  on  the  mode  in  which  they 
are  used  than  on  their  mineral  ingredients.  In  order  to  avoid  the  tedium 
of  a  long  and  solitary  immersion,  the  patients,  clothed  in  long  flannel  dres- 
ses, sit  up  to  their  necks  in  water  in  a  common  bath,  where  they  remain 
for  several  hours  together.  Each  bather  has  a  small  floating  table  before 
faim,  from  which  his  book,  newspaper,  or  coffee  is  enjoyed.  The  utmost 
order  and  decorum  are  preserved.  Travellers  are  admitted  to  view  this 
singular  and  somewhat  uninviting  spectacle.  The  charge  for  a  single 
bath  is  2  fr.  —  The  old  bath-house,  opposite  to  the  new,  contains  baths 
2ijx  ft.  only  in  depth,  now  used  by  the  poorer  classes.  All  the  baths  are 
open  from  4  to  10  a.  m.,  and  from  2  to  5  p.  m. 

SzcuraioBS.  A  walk,  partially  shaded,  and  affording  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  r.  bank  of  the  Data,  leads  from  the  promenade  to  the  foot  of  a 
lofty  precipice  (ijz  hr.)  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Dala.  The  traveller  then 
ascends  by  8  rude  Ladders  (^helles),  attached  to  the  perpendicular  face 
of  the  rock,  to  a  good  path  at  the  top,  which  leads  in  1  hr.  to  the  village 
of  Albtnen^  or  Arbignon  (4252^).  Persons  liable  to  dizziness  should  not 
attempt  the  ascent,  but  the  fine  view  obtained  from  a  projecting  rock 
above  the  seccmd  ladder  will  repay  the  climber.  The  descent  is  more  difficult 
than  the  ascent. 

Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  the  Fall  of  the  Dala  1(2  hr. ,  Dala 
Glacier  (with  guide)  2^^  hrs. ,  to  a  waterfall  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Dala 
ijs  hr.,  to  the  FoV)eret-Alp  s|4  hr.,  to  the  Torrent-Alp  lija  hr.  The  *'Tor- 
reathom,  or  Mainghom  (9i679'),  which  commands  a  magnificent  prospect  of 
the  snow  -  mountains  and  glaciers  of  the  Bernese  Oberland ,  and  of  the 
Pennine  Alps  from  Monte  Rosa  to  Hont  Blanc,  may  be  ascended  on  foot 
or  on  horseback  in  4  hrs.  (horse  11,  fee  1  fr.  \  guide  not  absolutely  ne- 
cessary, boy  from  the  village  3 — 4  fr.).  Descent  2i|2 — 3  hrs.  The  route 
Ukay  be  varied  in  descending  by  the  Maing  -  Olaeier  (guide  indispensable). 
Travellers  coming  from  the  Rhone  Valley,  and  desirous  of  visiting  Albinen 
and  the  Torrenthorn,  effect  a  considerable  saving  by  proceeding  direct  from 
the  village  of  Leuk  (see  below)  to  Albinen,  and  ttience  with  a  guide  by 
Chermignon  to  the  Torrenthorn,  from  which  they  may  then  descend  to  the 
Baths  of  Leuk.  The  Otslmhom  (8061'),  near  Chermignon,  is  also  frequently 
ascended. 

The  carriage-road  to  Leuk  crosses  the  Dcda  immediately  below 


150     Route  34.  LEUK. 

the  Baths ,  follows  the  lofty  r.  bank ,  and  descends  to  (3  M.) 
Inden  (3858')  (*Inn).  It  then  (1^2  M.")  recrosses  the  Dala, 
commanding  magnificent  views  of  the  Dala  ravine  aT*d  the  little 
village  of  Alhinen  situated  on  the  precipitous  slopes  opposite. 

Bridle-path  to  Sierre.  Pedestrians  bound  for  Sion  and  Martigny 
efleci  a  saving  of  1  hr.  by  quitting  the  road  to  the  r.,  by  a  slate  quarry, 
8  min.  before  the  last-mentioned'  bridge  is  reached,  and  skirting  the  brink 
of  a  precipice  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Dala.  In  12  min.  a  small  tunnel  is 
reached,  and  in  2  min.  more  a  second.  Above  the  dirty,  but  picturesque 
(>{4  hr.)  village  of  Varen  (2565'))  situated  at  the  apex  of  the  right  angle 
which  the  ravine  of  the  Dala  forms  with  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  a 
striking  view  is  obtained  of  the  latter  from  Vispach  to  Martigny,  a  dis- 
tance of  45  M.,  of  the  Forest  of  Pfyn,  and  the.  huge  yellow  basin  of  the 
Illgraben  on  the  opposite  mountains.  Then  (*!«  hr.)  Salgesch  C^idf} 
and  (*|4  hr.)  Sierre,  see  p.  254. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Dala  ravine  the  carriage -road  to  Leuk 
still  remains  high  above  the  Rhone  Valley,  of  which  a  beautiful 
view  as  far  as  Martigny  is  disclosed.  The  descent  is  very  at- 
tractive. The  old  bridle-path  to  the  1.  of  the  custom-house  at 
Inden,  which  rejoins  the  high-road  near  the  bridge,  and, 
1^4  M.  beyond  the  bridge,  a  path  to  the  r.  by  a  small  chapel 
descending  to  Leuk,  are  short-cuts.  Distance  from  the  Baths  to 
the  Rhone-bridge  8  M. 

Leuk,  or  Loeche-VUle  (2608')  (^Couronne;  omnibus  to  Sierre 
at  8  a.  m. ,  fare  IY2  fr-)»  ^^  *  small  town  (pop.  1220)  com- 
manded by  a  picturesque  old  castle,  and  situated  on  a  height 
3/4  M.  from  the  Rhone.  The  culture  of  the  vine  begins  here.  The 
high-road  from  Sierre  to  Brieg  (diligence  three  times  daily,  p.  252) 
leads  through  the  little  village  of  Susten  (Hotel  de  la  Souste)  on 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhone  (2051'). 

The  dusty  high-road  in  the  Rhone  Valley  (p.  252),  which 
averages  3  M.  in  breadth ,  and  is  marshy  at  places,  forms  an 
unpleasing  contrast  to  the  magnificent  route  just  described  and 
is  of  course  unsuitable  for  pedestrians.  One-horse  carr.  to  Vis- 
pach 8,  to  the  Baths  of  Leuk  14  fr. 

35.    From  Than  to  Sion  by  the  Rawyl. 

C&mp.  Mapy  p.  146. 

55  H.  From  Thun  to  Lenk  (dV\2  H.)  a  carriage  road.  From  Lenk  to 
Sion  (10»(2  hrs.)  a  new  bridle-path,  good  on  the  Bern  side,  but  rough  near 
the  bottom  on  the  side  of  the  Valais.  A  very  interesting  route.  Guide 
unnecessary. 

The  best  means  of  reaching  Lenk  is  by  the  Thun  and  Ges- 
seney  diligence  as  far  as  Zweisimmen  (in  6^/2  hrs.,  fare  5  fr.  55  c.) 
(see  p.  152),  whence  a  good  road  (diligence  once  daily  in  13/^, 
returning  in  1^2  l^'O  ascends  the  Upper  Simmenthal  to  (3  M.) 
St.  Stephan  (Falke),  (3  M.)  Matten,  and  (3  M.)  Lenk,  the  start- 
ing-point for  the  passage  of  the  Rawyl. 

From  Latterhach  (p.  153)  to  Mat  ten  a  shorter  but  uninteresting 
route  (7  hrs.)  leads  through  the  Diemti|rer-Thal.  At  Latterhach  it  crosses 
the  Simme  and  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Chirel,   To  the  r,  on  the  bill  is  the 


LENK.  35.  RouU.     151 

(ija  hr.)  village  of  Diemtigen^  io  the  1.  the  ruins  of  the  chateau  of  Orim- 
mengtein  or  Hasenburg.  It  then  leads  on  the  1.  bank  to  (I'U  hr.)  Tschnepin^ 
where  the  valley  divides  into  the  Mannigrund  to  the  r.  and  the  Schwenden- 
thal  to  the  1.  The  road  follows  the  latter,  which  after  ^^  hr.  again 
divides.  A  path  now  diverges  from  the  road  and  ascends  rapidly  to  the 
W.  through  the  Grimbachthal  to  the  (2  hrs.)  Orimmi  (6644'),  a  little 
frequented  pass,  almost  destitute  of  view,  and  then  descends  through  the 
fertile  valley  of  Fermel  to  (2  hrs.)  Matien  in  the  Upper  Simmenthal 
(p.  150). 

Lenk  (3510')  (* Krone,  R.  2,  B.  1,  pension  4  to  5  fr. ;  Bar; 
8Um)  is  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains  and  glaciers.  About 
^2  M.  from  the  Tillage,  at  the  base  of  the  HohUebe,  lies  the 
*KuranstaU  Lenk  (R.  2,  A.  V2,  L.  1/2,  B-  1  &•)>  ^it^  sulphur- 
baths,  recently  fitted  up.  The  majestic  Wildatrubd  (10,715'), 
the  snows  and  glaciers  of  which  rise  above  a  long  succession 
of  grey  rocks,  and  are  the  source  of  numerous  brooks,  presents 
a  very  imposing  aspect  here. 

From  Lenk  to  Osteig  6ifs  hrs.  The  route  leads  to  the  W.  over 
the  Triimisberg  (6693')  to  (4i|2  hrs.)  Lauenen  (p.  156),  and  thence  by  the 
Krinnen  (5446')  to  (2*|2  hrs.)  Oateig  (p.  155).  Scenery  very  attractive  at 
places,  see  R.  o7. 

From  Lenk  to  Oetseney  (p.  154)  4i|3  hrs.,  footpath  over  the  Revdit- 
enberg  or  Zwitzer  Egg,  and  down  the  Turhcich  Vcdley.  —  To  Adelboden 
over  the  Hahnenmoos,  see  p.  146. 

The  Sinime  rises  6  M.  to  the  S.  of  Lenk,  near  the  glacier  of  Razli.  An 
excursion  (4  hrs.  there  and  back)  to  its  source,  termed  the  ^Sieben  Brun- 
nen''  (Seven  Fountains,  4770'^  guide  unnecessary),  is  interesting.  In  2  hrs. 
a  chalet  (milk,  coffee,  etc.)  is  reached,  beyond  the  Rdzliberg  (6138'))  which 
here  intercepts  the  view  of  the  valley.  To  the  S.  is  the  precipitous  Razli- 
GlacieTy  at  the  foot  of  which,  near  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  10  inin.  from 
the  chalet,  is  the  source  of  the  Simme,  termed  the  Seven  Fountains,  as  it 
is  said  to  have  once  been  divided  into  seven  different  jets.  More  to  the  1. 
is  the  upper  F<Ul  of  the  Simme.  To  the  r.  of  the  glacier  rise  the  Qletsch- 
erhom  (9629')  and  the  Lavfbodenhom  (8871')',  above  the  Seven  Fountains, 
the  pointed  Seehom;  to  the  1.  above  the  upper  fall  of  the  Simme,  the 
Amertenhom  (8590')  (the  Wildstrvbel  behind  it  is  only  visible  from  a 
point  lower  down  the  valley).  The  experienced  mountaineer  may  ascend 
the   Wildstrubel  with  two  guides  from  the  chalet  in  5  hrs. 

From  Lenk  to  Sion  IOY2  J^^s.  The  road ,  at  first  practicable 
for  carriages,  leads  past  the  parsonage-house  into  the  valley  of 
the  Iffigenbaeh,  and  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  brook  to  the  (1^2  ^^0 
imposing  Pall  of  the  Itflgenbaoh,  the  spray  of  which  rises  almost 
to  the  height  from  which  it  is  precipitated. 

For  1/4  ^r.  the  path  mounts  the  rock  above  the  fall ,  and  in 
^4  hr.  more  reaches  the  chalets  of  Ifflgen  (5252')  (rustic  inn), 
situated  in  a  rocky  basin  resembling  that  of  the  Baths  of  Leuk. 

Beyond  Ifflgen  the  path  leads  through  a  small  wood,  ascends 
a  stony  slope,  and  finally  mounts  a  perpendicular  clifT,  where  it 
is  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The  ascent  (1^/4  hr.)  to  the  summit  of 
the  pass,  whence  a  beautiful  view  of  Lenk  and  the  mountains  of 
the  Simmenthal  is  enjoyed,  is  unattended  with  danger.  A  little 
below  the  pass  is  a  refuge  hut,  containing  wood  for  making  a 
fire.  To  the  W.  of  the  little  Lake  of  Rawyl  (V4  hr.)  a  cross, 
indicatinj^   the   boundary  of    Bern    and   Yalais    and  the   highest 


152     RouU  36.  RAWTL. 

point  of  the  Bawyl  (7923'),  is  attained.  The  path  now  passes  a 
second  small  lake,  and  crosses  the  Plan  des  Roses  in  ^/4  hi.  to 
the  margin  of  the  8.  slope  of  the  pass,  where  the  traveller  is 
environed  with  imposing  mountains.  To  the  N.W.  rises  the  long 
Miiiaghom  (8816');  to  the  S.W.  the  Sehntidehom  (9639')  and  the 
snow-clad  peaks  of  the  WiUUiom  (10,709');  to  the  S.  the  broad 
Rawylhom  (9541')  and  the  Wetzsteinltom  (^i2i'y,  to  the  £.  the 
Rohrbachstein  (9688')  (ascended  from  the  Rawyl  Pass  in  2  hrs., 
extensive  view,  from  Monte  Leone  to  the  Matterhorn) ;  to  the 
N.E.  the  extremities  of  the  glaciers  of  the  Weisshom  (9875'). 
This  wild  scenery  resembles  that  of  the  Gemmi,  but  is  more 
varied.  The  view  of  the  valley  and  the  mountains  of  the  Yalais, 
especially  the  Matterhorn  and  its  W.  neighbours,  is  also  very 
striking. 

The  path  now  descends  the  precipitous  rocks  in  zigzags  to  the 
dirty  chalets  of  (1  hr.)  IfiedeivBawyl,  Fr.  Les  Ravins,  and  then 
leads  along  the  mountain  to  the  r.  at  nearly  the  same  level,  as 
far  as  a  spring  (1/2  lir-)j  shortly  before  which  the  better  path 
diverges  to  the  r.  to  (3  hrs.)  Ayent  (Inn  of  the  cur^,  good 
Valais  wine). 

The  footpath  from  Kieder-Rawyl  to  Ayent,  shorter  by  1  hr.,  by  the 
so-called  '•  KandW  (i.e.  channel)  is  only  practicable  for  persons  with 
thoroughly  steady  heads.  In  order  to  convey  water  to  the  opposite  side  of 
the  mountain,  a  channel,  generally  not  exceeding  1'  in  width,  has  been 
cut  in  the  face  of  a  precipice  1300'  high,  and  also  serves  as  a  path.  At 
one  point  the  water  is  conveyed  across  toe  abyss  by  a  wooden  conduit, 
while  the  traveller  has  to  cross  the  chasm  by  a  single  plank.  This  path 
looks  more  dangerous  than  it  really  is,  but  it  should  not  be  attempted  by 
those  who  have  any  misgivings.  In  sji  hr.  the  bridle-path  is  rejoined.  From 
this  point  to  Ayent  the  track  is  broad  and  easy. 

From  Ayent  in  2  hrs.  by  Gximimatf  Ger.  Qrimseln  (2920'), 

to  Bion  (1709'),  see  p.  253. 

36.  From  Than  to  Oesseney  by  the  Simmenthal. 

341 12  M.  Diligence  once  daily  direct  in  8  hrs.,  and  once  daily 
spending  the  night  at  Zweisimmen. 

From  the  Bernete  Oberland  to  the  Lake  of  Geneva  the 
following  beautiful  route  is  strongly  recommended  to  pedestrian*  (27  hrs. 
from  Interlaken  to  Aigle  \  the  whole  journey  may  be  performed  on  horse- 
back ;  guides  unnecessary,  except  perhaps  between  Adelboden  and  Lauenen). 
Four  moderate  days'*  walk.  (1st).  Drive  from  Thun  or  Interlaken  to 
Frutigen  (or  take  the  first  steamboat  to  Spiez,  p.  104,  and  walk  in  S^jc  hrs. 
to  Frutigen,  see  p.  146),  and  walk  thence  in  4i)t  hrs.  to  Adelboden  (p.  146). 
—  (2nd).  Walk  in  3ifs  hrs.  over  the  Habnenmoos  (p.  146)  to  Lenk  (p.  151), 
and  visit  (5  hrs.)  the  Seven  Fountains  (p.  151).  —  (3rd).  Walk  in  71/9 
hrs.  over  the  Triittlisbei^  and  the  Krinnen  (p.  151)  to  Gsteig  (p.  156).  — 
(4th).  Walk  in  7i|2  hrs.  over  the  Col  de  Pillon  (p.  155)  (or  drive  from  the 
Hotel  dcs  Diablerets  or  from  Sepey)  to  Aigle  (p.  199),  whence  the 
traveller  may  proceed  by  railway  to  the  Lake  of  Oeneva,  or  to  Martigny, 
or  Sion  in  the  valley  of  the  Rhone. 

The  road  traverses  a  fertile  valley  (p.  145)  as  far  as  CfwaU, 

and  gradually   ascends   thence    in   the   direction   of   the   Niesen, 

affording  a  beautiful  view   of  the   Stockhom  to  the   r.  and  the 


WEISSBNBURG.  36.  Boute.     153 

Bemese  Alps  to  the  1.  At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  flows  the 
Kander. 

At  (6^2  M)  Broth&nti  (*Hir8ch)^  a  picturesque  old  castle, 
now  occupied  by  the  district  authorities,  rises  od  the  mountain 
slope.  {Whnmis  and  the  Niesen,  see  p.  103.)  The  road  then  passes 
through  a  defile  into  the  8immenth<Uj  a  rich  and  fertile  valley, 
studded  with  numerous  villages,  carpeted  with  well-cultivated 
gardens  and  pastures,  and  bounded  by  partially  wooded  moun- 
tains.    The  channel  of  the  Simme  lies  far  below. 

Near  (8  M.)  Latterbaeh  opens  the  valley  of  Diemtigen  (see 
p.  150).  (2  M.)  Erlenbach  (2319')  (*Krone,  R.  1,  B.  IVifr.; 
LawCj  R.  1  fr.),  with  its  well-built  wooden  houses,  is  the  usual 
starting-point  for  the  ascent  (3^/2  hrs.,  suitable  for  skilled 
climbers  only)  of  the  Stockhom  (7195');  descent  by  the  Wahl- 
alp  and  the  Baths  of  Weissenburg,  which  are  reached  by  means 
of  ladders. 

14  M.  Weiisenbnrg  (2418')  (*H6tel  Weissenhourg)  is  a  small 
group  of  houses,  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  which,  in  a  gorge  seldom 
reached  by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  are  the  much  frequented  8ul- 
phur-Baths  of  Weissenburg  (2940'),  or  Bunschi  (82®  Fahr.).  Bath- 
house at  the  entrance  of  the  gorge  (R.  and  bath  2 — 3,  pension  3  fr. 
per  day). 

Near  Boltigen  (2726')  (*Bar,  moderate;,  a  village  with  hand- 
some houses,  half-way  between  Weissenburg  and  Zweisimmen, 
two  rocks  form  a  defile  termed  the  Simmeneck,  or  Enge.  Above 
the  village  rise  the  bald  peaks  of  the  Mittagsfluh^  a  landslip  from 
which  destroyed  a  wood  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  in  1846. 
To  the  1.  the  snow-fields  of  the  Rawyl  (p.  152)  are  visible 
beyond  the  lower  mountains. 

A  coal-mine  is  worked  in  a  side-valley  near  Beidenbaeh 
(2756')  (8/4  M.  from  Boltigen),  which  accounts  for  the  sign  of 
the  inn  (a  miner). 

From  Reidenbach  to  Bulle  (p.  166)  two  direct  mountain-paths  lead 
in  8  hrs. ;  one  by  the  Klutt^  the  other  by  the  Bddermoos.  The  first  is  steep 
at  places,  but  picturesque  i  the  second  traverses  beautiful  pastures  and  pine 
woods  (guide  from  Boltigen  to  the  top  of  the  Badenuoos  1  fr.).  The  path 
unites  with  that  from  AbldnUe?teny  s|4  hr.  before  Jaun  is  reached.  The  vil- 
lage of  Jaun  (3317'),  Fr.  BeUegarde  (Imhof^  moderate),  in  the  Canton  of 
Freiburg,  3  hrs.  from  Boltigen,  is  beautifully  situated,  and  boasts  of  a 
waterfall  8(y  high.  A  rough  cart-road  leads  through  the  VuUey  of  Jaun^ 
or  BeUegarde^  with  its  jrich  pastures,  where  excellent  Gruy^re  cheese  is 
made,  to  (2i|2  hrs.)  Oharmey,  Oer.  Galmers  (2956')  (two  good  inns).  Pleasing 
view  near  the  church.  The  path  next  leads  by  Cristts.Chdtely  and  the  ruins 
of  Monttalvens  (rare  plants),  crosses  the  Jaun-Baeh  to  Broe^  then  the  Sarine^ 
traverses  wood  for  1  hr.,  and  reaches  Bulle,  3i|s  hrs.  from  Charmey.  — 
From  Cr^us  a  pleasant  bridle-path  (S^lz  hrs.)  leads  by  Cemiaty  the  ancient 
monastery  of  Valsainte^  and  the  Chessttlle  -  Eck  (4659  ft.)  to  the  Lac  Noir^ 
surrounded  by  lofty  mountains.  On  the  W.  bank  are  the  sulphureous 
Bain»  de  Diamine. 

The  high-road  crosses  the  Simme,  and  turns  suddenly  round 


154     BouU  36,  CHATEAU  D'OEX. 

the   Itoubeckatalden  rock.     To  the  1.  are  the  ruins  of  the  two 

castles  of  Mannenberg. 

11 1/4  M.  ZweiBunmen  (3215')  (Bar;  *Kronej  moderate;,  a 
village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Grosse  and  Kleine  Simme.  The 
CcuiU  of  Blahkenburg^  a  prison,  and  the  residence  of  the  Amt- 
mann,  not  visible  from  the  road,  stands  on  a  height  on  the  road 
to  Lenk,  which  is  8  M.  distant  (see  p.  151). 

The  road  ascends  gradually  for  5  M.,  with  the  KUine  Simme 
in  a  pine-clad  valley  on  the  1.,  and  crosses  five  or  six  deep 
ravines.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  (*Inn)  begin  the  Saanen-Mbset 
(4226^),  a  broad  Alpine  valley,  sprinkled  in  the  direction  of  Ges- 
seney  with  innumerable  chalets  and  cottages.  A  magnificent  view 
is  gradually  disclosed  of  the  RubUhom,  or  Dent  de  Chamois 
(7569'),  which  serves  as  a  barometer  to  the  surrounding  country 
(comp.  p.  56),  the  indented  GumfLuh  (8068^),  the  snow-fields  of 
the  SaneUch  beyond  it,  and  finally  the  huge  Oelten  Glaeier  (p.  155) 
to  the  1. 

872  M.  eesseney,  Ger.  -Sfaanen  (33560  CGrand  LogU,  R. 
V/21  D.  3,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ;  'Ottw,  unpretending;  one-horse  carr. 
to  Thun  25  fr.),  is  the  principal  place  in  the  valley  of  the  Upper 
Saane  (Sarine),  with  3639  inhab.  (11  Rom.  Cath.),  whose  occu- 
pations are  cattle-breeding  and  the  manufacture  of  the  famous 
Oruyhre  cheese.  Vacheriny  a  kind  of  cream-cheese,  is  also 
esteemed.  The  tower  of  the  prison  on  the  E.  side  and  a  few  of 
the  houses  only  are  built  of  stone.  The  men  wear  wide  and 
quaint  brown  jackets  without  sleeves,  and  many  pretty  faces  and 
comely  figures  may  be  observed  among  the  women. 

To  Aigle  by  the  Col  de  Pillony  see  R.  37;  to  8ion  by  the 
Sanetschy  see  p.  155. 

To  Aigle  by  Chdteau  d^Oex  (28i|2  H.)-  Diligence  twice  daily  in 
V\»  hr.  from  Gesseney  by  Rougemonty  Ger.  Rothenbergy  on  the  frontier  of 
the  cantons  of  Bern  and  Vaud,  and  the  boundary  between  German  and 
French,  to  (6»|4  M.)  Ohitean  d'Oex,  Ger.  Oesch  (3497')  Cmtel  Berthody  well 
situatea  on  a  grassy  plateau  \  H6tel  de  VOurSy  R.  1>)3,  B.  l^t  fr.  *,  Mauon  de 
Ville;  ** H6tel  Rohu  du  Midi;  pension  generally  4  fr.  —  Icety  and  a  few 
private  apartments,  at  Turrian'Sy  opposite  Berthod),  a  scattered  village, 
rebuilt  since  a  fire  in  1800.  Diligence  to  Aigle  daily  in  6*|sf  returning  in 
5  hrs.  The  road  to  Montbovon  and  Bulle  is  followed  as  far  as  (>|4  M.)  Le 
Pri  and  {}\\  M.)  Le»  Moulinty  where  the  new  road  diverges  to  the  1.,  and 
ascends  the  valley  of  the  Toumeresse  (  ValUe  de  VEtivcu)  by  long  windings. 
(Pedestrians  should  follow  the  old  road,  which  divei^es  at  Le  Priy  imme- 
diately beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Sarine.)  The  road  runs  high  above 
the  valley,  and  affords  picturesque  views  of  the  j^rofound  rocky  bed  of  the 
brook.  At  (3>J4  H.)  Au-Devant  the  road  becomes  more  open,  and  its  con- 
tinuation is  seen  on  the  mountain  to  the  r.,  but  it  remains  in  the  valley 
as  far  as  (21/4  H.)  Etivaz  (3865'),  where  it  turns  and  quits  the  ravine. 
Pedestrians  avoid  this  long  bend  of  the  road  by  a  rough  and  stony  path 
descending  to  the  r.  at  a  saw-mill  in  the  valley,  and  ascending  to  the  road 
at  a  point  considerably  higher.  From  Etivas  to  the  top  of  the  hill  (5069') 
2i|«  M. ;  beyond  it  (S|4  M.)  La  Leeherette  (4519^) ;  then  (lijs  M.)  Le»  Mosses 
(inn),  whence  a  splendid  view  of  the  Dent  du  Midi  is  enioyed.  The  road 
now  descends  the  valley  of  the  brook  Raverette  to  (2i|4  M.)  La  Com- 
balku  (4476^)  (*'Couronne,  generally  full  in  summer),  much  firequented  for 


COL  DB  PILLON.  37.  BouU.      155 

lis  minerml  spring  and  inYieonting  moanUin  air,  and  a  good  starting-point 
for  excursions.  Beyond  this  the  road  commands  a  fine  survey  of  a  very 
picturesque  basin,  with  the  Diablerets  and  Oldenhom  in  the  background, 
and  winds  down  to  (3  M .)  Le  Sepep  (3674')  (Hotel  des  Alpes ;  Cerf,  new,  well 
situated,  pension  4—5  fr.)*    Thence  to  (7  M.)  Aigle^  see  p.  156. 

37.  From  Oeeteney  to  Aigle  over  the  Col  de  Pillon. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  146. 

32  M.  Diligence  from  Gesseney  to  (1^%  M.)  Osteig  once  daily  in  l^jz  hr.  \ 
bridle-path  thence  to  (3  hrs.)  Ormont-dessus  \  road  to  Ormont-dessous  4  M . ; 
diligence  once  daily  from  Ormont-dessovs  to  (9  M.)  Aigle  in  li|s  hr.  (return- 
ing in  2>ls  hrs.).  —  Guide  unnecessary.  One-horse  canr.  from  the  Hotel 
des  Diablerets  to  Aigle  15  fr. 

Gesseney,  see  p.  154.    The  road  leads  to  the  S.  through  the 

broad  and  smiling  Saanethal,  the  upper  part  of  which  is  termed 

the  Gsteigthal,  to  Ebnit  and  (2  M.)  Ofltaad  (3455')  (Bar),  situated 

at  the  mouth  of  the  Laiuenenthal. 

A  road  ascends  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  LatHbach  to  (4  H.)  Lanenen 
(4130")  i*BUr,  moderate),  the  beautifully  situated  capital  of  the  valley. 
Pleasant  walk  thence  to  the  picturesque  Lav€nen$ee  (4524'),  1  hr.  higher 
up.  The  lake  is  best  surveyed  from  a  hill  at  the  upper  end.  To  the 
8.  the  brooks  descending  from  the  Otlten  and  Dungel  glaciers  form  beau- 
tiful waterfalls  on  both  sides  of  the  Hahnensehritthom  (9304').  —  Routes 
from  Lauenen  to  Lenk  by  the  TrUMitherg,  and  to  Gsteig  by  the  Artimefi, 
see  p.  151.  —  To  Maiien  through  the  Tnrbaehthal  and  over  the  Xwiixer 
Egg,  Me  p.  151. 

7  M.  Gstaig,  Fr.  CUieUt  (39370  {Baty  R.  1,  B.  IV4  fr.) 
lies  in  an  imposing  situation.  From  the  marshy  upper  part  of 
the  valley  rise  the  precipitous  Sanetschhom  (9678')  and  the  Olden- 
hom (iO,QS2'\  which  almost  entirely  exclude  the  sunshine  from 

the  village  in  winter. 

To  Sion  over  the  Sanetsch,  V\i  hrs.,  a  somewhat  fatiguing  and 
unattractive  route.  The  path  crosses  the  Barine  beyond  Gsteig«  and  ascends 
the  valley  of  that  river  to  the  dreary  Kreuzboden  (2  hrs.  from  Gsteig); 
thence  lifs  hr.  to  the  culminating  point  of  the  Baaetaoh  (7969^),  Fr.  8enin, 
indicated  by  a  cross.  Beyond  the  pass  a  magnificent  *view  is  obtained  of  the 
valleys  and  mountains  of  the  8.  Valais  as  far  as  Mont  Blanc,  to  the  r.  the 
great  Sanfleuron  Glacier.  Then  a  descent  to  (2SJ4  hrs.)  ChandoHn  (Inn,  good 
wine),  and  by  Oranoit  and  Ormona  to  (11)4  hr.)  Sion  (p.  253).  Ascent  from 
Sion  to  the  pass  7,  thence  to  Gsteig  2  hrs. 

The  bridle-path  here  turns  to  the  S.W.,  ascends  the  valley 
of  the  Reusehhach  through  woods  and  pastures,  in  view  of  the 
precipices  of  the  Oldenhom  and  Sex  Rouge,  from  which  several 
waterfalls  are  precipitated,  and  reaches  (2  hrs.)  the  summit  of  the 
Col  de  Pillon  (4928').  During  the  descent,  where  pedestrians 
may  frequently  make  short  cuts,  a  view  is  disclosed  of  a  valley 
enclosed  by  picturesque ,  wooded  mountains ,  and  thickly  studded 
with  the  houses  and  chalets  known  collectively  as  Ormont-desf ni ; 
In  the  background  rise  the  peaks  of  the  Tour  d'Ay.  To  the  1. 
U  the  rocky  Creux  de  Champ,  the  base  of  the  Diablerets,  whence 
numerous  brooks  precipitate  themselves,  forming  the  Orande-Eau, 
which  waters  the  Ormont  valleys  and  falls  into  the  Rhone  below 
Ai^e.     Then  a  descent  of  1  hr.  (ascent  l^s  hr.)  to  the  *H6teL 


156     RouU37.         ORMONT-DESSOUS. 

des  Diahlereta  (R.  2,  pension  7  fr.),  at  the  W.  base  of  the  Pillon, 
from  which  a  new  road  leads  to  (I72  M.)  Vers  VEglise  (•H6tel 
de  rOurs,  also  a  pension ;  Gerf,  pension  from  3^2  fr.)?  the  largest 
of  these  scattered  villages . 

To  Villardy  or  Oryon,  bp  the  Pas  de  la  Croix^  3»|4  hrs., 
a  beautiful  walk,  guide  unnecessary.  From  the  Hdtel  dea  Diablerete 
ascend  the  valley  of  the  Grande  Eau  for  V«  br.,  and  tiien  enter  a  lateral 
valley  by  a  bridle-path  to  the  r.  (S.W.)-  After  a  somewhat  steep  ascent  of 
13|4  hr.,  with  frequent  retrospects  of  the  Diablerets,  the  summit  of  the 
Fas  de  la  Onrix  (5705')>  with  some  houses  to  the  1.,  is  attained.  The  path 
descends  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Orjfonne  to  (IM4  hr.)  Arvepes  and  (i{4  hr.) 
Villard  (p.  199).  The  path  to  Oryon  diverges  before  Arveyes  to  the  1., 
crosses  the  brook ,  and  reaches  Oryon  (p.  242)  in  20  min.  This  route  is 
preferable  to  that  which  leads  to  Gryon  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Gryonne 
brook ,  as  it  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Dent  du  Midi ,  Dent  de 
Morcles,  Grand  Moveran,  and  the  Argentine, 

The  Oldenhom  (10,l!S3r)  Fr.  Attdouy  a  superb  point  of  view,  is  frequently 
ascended  from  Gsteig  (in  7,  descent  41(2  hrs.),  or  from  the  Hotel  des  Diab- 
lerets (in  8,  descent  5>(2  hrs.).  The  excursion  requires  a  steady  head  and 
sure  foot.  Guide  necessary  (10 — 12  fr.).  The  paths  unite  at  the  chalets 
of  the  Obere  Oldenalp  (coffee  and  milk  only),  where  the  night  is  usually 
passed. 

Immediately  adjoining  Ormont-dessus  are  the  houses  of  the 
lower  part  of  the  valley,  known  as  Ormont-dessoiu,  another  favourite 
summer  resort  (Hdtei  des  Alpesf  Mont  d^Ofy  well  spoken  of; 
*Troi8  Suissesj  moderate;  one-horse  carr.  to  the  Hotel  des  Diab- 
lerets 8  fr. ,  and  a  fee  of  2  fr.).  About  Ay 2  M.  from  Vers 
I'Eglise  the  road  unites  v^h  that  from  Ghlteau  d'Oex  (p.  154), 
and  turns  to  the  S.W. ;  V/2  M.  farther  is  Le  Sepey  (3674'),  the 
principal  village  in  the  lower  part  of  the  valley  (p.  155).  Far  below 
at  the  base  of  the  precipitous  and  beautifully  wooded  rocks,  the 
Grande- Eau  forms  several  waterfalls;  opposite  rises  the  impos-^ 
ing  Chamossaire  (6932').  Beyond  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  rise 
the  four  peaks  of  the  Dent  du  Midi.  The  road  now  descends  in 
numerous  windings  towards  the  Grande-Eau,  and,  passing  between 
vineyards,  reaches  Aigle  (see  p.  199),  7  M.  from  Sepey. 

38.  From  Bulle  to  Montreox  or  Vevay  by  the  Molteon 

and  the  Jaman. 

Comp.  MapSy  pp.  Ue,  188, 

From  Bulle  to  the  Mol^son  ^^\%  hrs,  descent  to  Montbovon  4  hrs.  \  thence 
to  the  Col  du  Jaman  3,  descent  to  Montreux  3,  or  to  Vevay  4i|s  hrs.,  a  most 
attractive  excursion  of  two  days.  Byron  terms  the  passage  of  the  Jaman 
*  beautiful  as  a  dream  \  In  order  to  realise  this,  the  traveller  who  is  yet 
unacquainted  with  the  Lake  of  Geneva  and  the  mountains  of  Savoy,  should 
cross  the  pass  from  the  valley  of  the  Sarine,  so  as  to  have  this  mag- 
nificent spectacle  suddenly  presented  to  view.  The  morning  and  evening 
lights  are  the  most  favourable,  as  the  lake  is  often  veiled  in  mist  about 
noon.  —  From  the  Lake  of  Geneva  to  the  Bernese  Oberland  the  route  by 
Aigle  and  the  Col  de  Pillon  (p.  155)  is  far  preferable  to  that  over  the 
Jaman  (see  p.  152). 

Bulle  (24870  (Cheval  Blanc  ^  HdUl  de  la  ViUe),   a  busy  little 

town,  the  principal  dep6t  of  the  highly  esteemed  Gruydre  cheese, 


MOLfiSON.  38.  BouU.      157 

is  the  tenninas  of  the  Romont  and  BuUe  railway  (see  p.  162). 
Diligence  several  times  daily  to  Oesseney  (p.  154)  by  Albeuve, 
Montbovon  (see  below),  and  Chateau  d'Oex  (p.  154);  also  to 
Veyay  by  Chdtel  8t.  DenU.  Guide  (4—5  fr.)  to  the  Moltfson 
(5  hrs.)  unnecessary  for  moderately  experienced  climbers. 

Follow  the  Vuadens  road  for  ^/^  M.,  and  turn  to  the  1.  by 
a  saw-mill.  The  path  gradually  ascends  by  the  brook  La  Trime 
to  the  (1  hr.)  red -roofed  buildings  of  Part-Dieu,  formerly  a 
Carthusian  monastery  (3 IBS'),  and  leads  on  the  W.  slope  of 
the  mountain,  crossing  several  small  affluents  of  the  Treme, 
to  the  (2  hrs.)  chalets  of  Lea  Plants  (poor  inn).  The  route 
can  hardly  be  mistaken ,  as  the  summit  of  the  MoMson  is  fre- 
quently visible.  The  path,  now  precipitous  and  ill -defined, 
ascends  to  the  summit  in  1^2  b'*  more. 

The  *](olteo]i  (6578'),  the  N.  continuation  of  the  Jaman, 
and  an  advanced  spur  of  the  higher  Alps,  may  be  termed  the 
Rigi  of  W.  Switzerland,  and  is  recognisable  in  aJl  the  panoramas 
of  this  region  by  its  bold,  rocky  slopes,  surrounded  by  meadows 
and  forests,  which  afford  an  excellent  field  for  the  botanist. 
The  view  embraces  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  the  Mts.  of  Savoy,  the 
Dent  d*Oche  and  Dent  du  Midi ,  and  stretches  to  the  Mont  Blanc 
chain,  of  which  the  summit  and  the  serrated  Aiguille  Yerte  and 
Aiguille  d*Argenti^re  are  visible.  To  the  1.  of  the  latter,  nearer 
the  foreground,  rises  the  Dent  de  Morcles,  forming  the  com- 
mencement of  a  chain  of  mountains  which  culminate  in  the 
Diablerets  in  the  centre,  and  extend  to  the  heights  of  Gruyire 
at  the  feet  of  the  spectator.  The  Grand  Combin,  to  the  1.  of 
the  Mont  Blanc  group,  is  the  only  peak  of  the  Alps  of  the  Yalais 
visible  hence.  Most  of  the  Bernese  Alps  are  also  concealed. 
To  the  extreme  1.  rises  the  Titlis.     To  the  W.  the  Jura. 

From  Alheuve  (see  below)  to  the  Molison  (4~-4i|2  hrs.).  On  the 
outskirts  of  the  village  the  path  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  brook,  tra- 
verses pastures,  enters  a  picturesque  ravine,  and  leads  along  the  well 
shaded  slope  to  a  small  chapel  and  a  saw-mill  a  little  farther.  It  here 
crosses  the  stream ,  recrosses  it  at  a  charcoal-kiln ,  ^%  hr.  farther ,  and 
reaches  (5  min.)  Uie  first  chalet.  Towards  the  N.N.E.  the  ridge  separating 
the  Mol^son  from  the  Little  Moleson  is  now  visible.  The  path  continues 
traceable  to  the  vicinity  of  the  highest  chalet,  which  the  traveller  leaves 
on  the  1.  Thence  a  somewhat  fatiguing  scramble  of  i^\\  hr.  to  the  sum- 
mit. There  is  no  path,  but  the  traveller  will  find  his  way  without  diffi- 
culty to  the  ridge,  whence  the  summit  is  visible,  and  attainable  in 
10  min.  more. 

The  path  ascending  from  Vaulrtu^  the  station  before  BuUe  (p.  162), 
unites  at  Part-Dieu  with  that  from  BuUe,  and  another  path  ascends  from 
SenuaUg,  but  neither  of  these  routes  is  recommended,  as  a  lofty  but- 
tress of  the  mountain  must  be  traversed  before  the  valley  of  the  Trdme 
and  the  base  of  the  Moleson  are  reached. 

From  the  MoMson  the  traveller    may  descend  in  3  hrs.    to 

AlbeiiTe  (2487')  (*Ange),   a  small  village  in  the  valley  of  the 

Sarine,  on  the  BuUe  and  Gesseney  road,    which  towards  the  S. 

leads  to  (3  M.)  MoatbOTon  (2608')  (H6tel  du  Janum;  horse  to 


156     Routt  3S,  JAM  AN. 

the  Jaman  10 ,    to  Montrenx  20  fr. ;    guide  5  fr. ,    but  not   ne- 
ce-sary). 

The  road  from  Oesseney  and  Chateau  d'Oex  (p.  157),  on  which  a  di- 
ligence rung  several  times  daily,  leads  N.  from  Honftbovon  to  (10  If.) 
Bulle.  On  a  height  to  the  1.  of  the  road ,  i^js  M.  before  BuUe  is  reached, 
lies  the  ancient  little  town  of  Ghruyere,  Oer.  Oreyerz  (Maisan  de  Ville; 
Fleur  de  Lys) ,  with  an  old  castle  of  the  powerful  Counts  of  Gruy^re, 
who  became  extinct  in  the  16th  cent. ,  flanked  with  massive  towers  and 
walls,  and  supposed  to  date  from  the  5tti  cent.  The  surrounding  district 
consists  of  rich  pasture-land  where  the  well-known  Gruy^re  cheese  is  lar- 
gely manufactured.  The  ^rans  des  vaches*  of  Gruy&re  is  celebrated.  The 
natives  speak  a  Romanic  dialect. 

By  the  last  houses  of  Montbovon  the  path  ascends  to  the  1. ; 
after  25  min.  to  the  r.  by  a  house;  further  on  it  descends  to 
the  bridge  (35  min.)  over  the  Hongrini  Y4  ^'*  <^bwcl^  of  the 
scattered  village  of  Allifoot;  ^/^  hr. ,  Croix  Noire  inn.  (From 
Albeuve  follow  the  Montbovon  road  for  1/2  M.  and  diverge  to 
r.  by  a  path  leading  by  Seiemea  to  Allidres  in  1^2  ^'0 

The  path  now  ascends  gradually  to  the  foot  of  the  pass,  then 
more  rapidly  over  green  pastures  (not  too  much  to  the  1.), 
to  the  (1^2  ^'0  chalets  of  the  Plan  de  Jaman  j  a  little  beyond 
the  boundisiry  between  the  cantons  of  Freiburg  and  Yaud,  and 
a  few  min.  farther  to  the  Col  de  la  Dent  de  Jamaa  (4974').  A 
strikingly  beautiful  ^prospect  is  here  suddenly  disclosed  to  the 
8.,  embracing  the  entire  mountain 'range  as  far  as  the  Rochers 
de  Naye  (6606')  and  the  Tour  d*Ay,  and  the  MoMson  (p.  157) 
to  the  N. ;  the  rich  Canton  de  Yaud,  the  S.  part  of  the  Juia 
chain,  the  long  range  of  the  Alps  of  Savoy,  the  £.  angle  of 
the  Lake  of  Geneva,  the  huge  mountains  bounding  the  Yalais 
on  the  S. ,  and  the  snowy  summits  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard. 
From  the  Dent  de  Jaman,  Ger.  Jommen  (6165'),  1190'  above 
the  Col,  a  fatiguing  ascent  of  1^2  b^*  more,  the  view  includes 
the  lakes  of  Geneva,  Neuchatel,  and  Morat,  Pilatus,  and  the 
Weissenstein. 

From  the  Gol  to  Montreux  the  path  cannot  be  mistaken; 
12  min.  from  the  chalets  it  turns  to  the  r. ;  25  min.  a  bridge, 
then  a  slight  ascent,  and  a  level  walk  to  (1  hr.)  En  Avaat 
(3212')  {VnUm,  pleasing  view).  The  path  hence,  generally  paved, 
follows  the  W.  slope  of  the  valley.  At  a  bend  in  the  path  (1  hr. 
from  En  Avant) ,  at  the  beginning  of  the  region  of  fruit-trees,  a 
narrower  path,  also  paved,  leads  to  the  1. ,  to  (10  min.)  Sonuer, 
and  then  descends  rapidly  to  the  1.  to  (^2  ^'0  Mentr»iuc»  or 
Yemez  (p.  196),  a  steamboat  and  railway  station. 

The  path  to  the  r.  at  the  bend  above  mentioned  soon  leads 
to  the  village  of  Chemex  (2231'),  charmingly  situated  in  the  midst 
of  orchards,  from  which  a  new  road,  passing  to  the  N.  of  Gh&telard, 
leads  towards  the  village  of  ChaUly  (Pens.  Benker).  Before  it  is 
reached .  a  path  descends  to  the  1.  to  the  high-road  leading  to 
(41/2  M.j  Ye^ay  (p.  193).     (The  traveller  coming  from  Yevay,  on 


LAtP^K.  39.  RouU.     I5d 

aniTing  at  the  last  houses  of  Im  Tour^  must  take  the  first  path 
diyeiging  to  the  1.,  and  then  incline  to  the  r. ;  12  min. ,  to 
the  r. ;  12  min.  a  finger-post,  indicating  the  way  to  '  Challey, 
Gharnex,  and  Jaman/ 

39.    From  Bern  to  Laasaime  (Vevay). 

Or  on  Rail  to  ay.  To  Freiburg  in  1— i>|4  hr.,  fares  3  fr.  75,  2  fr.  70  c., 
2  fp.  5  to  Chexbrea  (Vevay)  in  3  — di|«  hrs. ,  fares  9  fr.  66,  7  fr.,  5  fr. 
20  c. ;  to  Lausanne  in  3>J4— 4  hrs.,  fares  10  fr.  90,  7  fr.  85,  5  fr.  80  c.  •,  to 
Geneva  in  ^It-e^n  hrs.,  fares  17  fr.  50,  12  fr.  30,  9  fr.  10  c. 

On  the  arrival  of  each  train  at  Chexbres,  an  omnibus  is  in  waiting  to 
convey  |»aS8enger8  to  Vevay  (fare  1  fr.,  luggage  20  c),  which  is  thus  reached 
sooner  than  by  first  proceeding  to  Lausanne.  (Road  from  Chexbres  to 
Vevay,  see  p.  162.)  Several  trains  correspond  at  Lausanne  with  trains  on 
the  Western  Railway  to  Geneva,  but  in  the  direction  of  Vevay,  Bex,  and 
Sion  there  is  no  direct  communication,  carriages  being  always  changed. 
Arrangement  of  carriages  with  passages  throughout,  the  same  as  in  Ger- 
man Switzerland. 

The  OroK  Kailway  to  Chexbres  traverses  a  fertile  tract  of  arable 
land  and  pasture,  afibrding  occasional  glimpses,  to  the  1.,  of  the  Alps  from 
the  Bernese  Oberland  to  the  mountains  of  Savoy  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Lake  of  Geneva.  The  journey  between  Chexbres  and  Lausanne  is  strikingly 
beautiful,  the  views  far  surpassing  those  on  any  other  Swiss  railway. 

On  starting  choose  a  seat  on  the  left,  but  observe  that  the 
train  backs  out  from  the  Bern  station,  afterwards  proceeding  to- 
wards the  W.  A  glimpse  is  soon  obtained  of  the  Bernese  Alps, 
with  the  pyramidal  Niesen  in  front  of  them  to  the  1.,  the  moun- 
tains enclosing  the  valleys  of  the  Simme  and  the  Sarine,  of  which 
the  hald  and  serrated  Brenleire  (7743')  and  Foli<^rant  (7690') 
are  most  conspicuous,  and  the  MoMson  more  to  the  r.  From 
Stat.  BumpUtz  to  stat.  Thorishaiu  a  monotonous  grassy  valley  is 
traversed.  The  line  then  descends  and  crosses  the  Sense  (Sift' 
yinejj  the  boundary  between  the  cantons  of  Bern  and  Freiburg. 
Stat.  Flamatt. 

From  Flamatt  to  Laupen  diligence  twice  daily  in  1>|4  hr.  (fare 
76  c.)  by  Neueneck  (Bar  or  Post),  where  an  obelisk  commemorates  a  victory 
gained  by  the  Bernese  over  the  French  in  1798.  Laupen,  a  small  town  at 
the  foot  of  the  Bramberg^  at  the  confluence  of  the  SenM  and  the  Saarte,, 
is  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  Switzerland  for  a  victory  gained  in  1339  by 
the  Bernese  under  Ru4olph  van  Erlach  (p.  96)  over  the  army  of  Freiburg 
and  the  allied  nobility  of  the  Uechtland,  the  Aargau,  Savoy,  and  Burgundy. 
The  anniversary  of  the  battle  is  observed  every  five  years.  The  battle- 
field on  the  Bramberff^  s|4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  road  from  Neueneck  to 
Laupen,  is  marked  by  a  monument,  erected  in  1829. 

Beyond  the  next  tunnel  the  line  traverses  the  green  valley 
of  the  Taffema-Baeh.  Stations  Sehmitten,  Dudingen  (Fr.  (?um, 
view  of  the  Alps  to  the  1.),  where  the  valley  is  crossed  by  a 
lofty  bridge,  and  BalUttoyl,  beyond  which  the  *  Viaduct  of  the 
Sarine  is  reached,  260'  in  height,  and  nearly  Y4  M.  long.  The 
fact  that  3000  tons  of  iron  were  employed  in  its  construction 
conveys  some  idea  of  its  proportions.  Below  the  line  is  a  path 
for  foot-passengers. 


160     RouU  39.  FREIBURG.  From  Bem 

Freiburg.     ^ZJLhrinobr  Hof,  near  the  bridge,  ftne  view  of  both  the 

bridges  from  the  terrace,  R.  3,  B.  i%  D.  at  12i|2  and  8  o'cl.  3i|2,  at  5  o'cl. 
4^  L.  and  A.  l^fs  fr.  (the  dining-room  contains  a  good  portrait  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan Oirard^  an  educational  writer  of  great  repute,  who  died  in  1860); 
*HdT£L  DE  Friboubo,  Well  situated,  R.  from  2,  D.  8>J2 — 4<|3,  L.  and 
A.  11 14  fr. ;  Krambbm,  or  Hdtel  des  Merders  (or  des  Marcnandt)^  near  the 
church  of  St.  Nicholas,  similar  charges  *,  Hotel  dbs  Charpbntibrs.  l^ear 
the  station  Catnpagne  Beauregard^  pension  from  4  fr.  —  Beer-garden  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  town,  near  the  barracks.  —  Omnibus  to  the  lower  part 
of  the  town  ijz  fr. 

Freiburg  (2100'),  Fr.  Frihourg ,  the  capital  of  the  canton  of 
that  name,  and  of  the  ancient  VtchUandy  founded  In  1175  by 
Berthold  of  Zahringen  (p.  95),  stands  on  a  rocky  eminence  sur- 
rounded by  the  Sarine  (Saane),  in  a  situation  yery  similar  to  Bem, 
and  contains  10,904  (1136  Prot.)  Inhab.,  most  of  whom  speak 
French.  Freiburg  lies  on  the  boundary  between  the  two  tongues, 
German  being  spoken  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town. 

The  picturesque  situation  of  the  town  and  bridges  is  not  seen  from  the 
railway  station,  but  may  be  inspected  within  a  few  hours.  The  following 
walk  of  about  1»|2  hr.  is  recommended.  From  the  station  to  the  Jesuits'"  Col- 
lege \  thence  through  the  town,  cress  the  Sutperuion  Bridge^  and  ascend  by 
the  road  to  the  r.  to  the  Pont  de  Ootteron  (see  below ;  an  old  tower  between 
the  two  bridges  is  a  good  point  of  view),  cross  this,  and  follow  the  long 
windings  of  the  road  to  BourgilUm^  a  group  of  houses.  (The  use  of  a 
tempting  short  cut  is  prohibited  under  a  penalty  of  10  fr.)  Proceeding 
to  the  1.,  by  a  crucifix,  as  far  as  the  first  bend  in  the  road,  a  point  (on 
the  r.  side  of  the  road)  is  gained,  which  afTords  a  good  survey  of  the 
windings  of  the  Sarine  and  a  view  of  the  Mol^son,  but  nothing  is  gained 
by  going  farther.  In  returning,  descend  the  road  to  the  Loretto  Chapel^ 
from  which  another  fine  view  of  the  town  is  obtained.  Farther  on,  by 
a  small  chapel,  a  direct  path  descends  by  steps  to  the  Arsenal.  Here  turn 
to  the  1.  by  the  fountain ,  cross  the  Sarine  by  a  stone  bridge ,  and  ascend 
to  the  Council  Hall.  Those  who  wish  to  examine  the  bridge  more  closely 
should  walk  to  it  from  Freiburg.  About  1  M.  from  the  town  a  good  foot- 
path to  the  r.  descends  to  the  foot  of  the  pillars  on  which  the  bridge  rests, 
and  a  steep  path  ascends  thence  to  the  caf^  on  the  Freiburg  side.  Then 
cross  the  bridge  to  stat.  Ballineifl^  and  return  to  Freiburg  by  train. 

The  ^Snfpension  Bridge,  or  Pont  Suspendu,  completed  in 
1834,  is  300  yds.  in  length,  22'  in  breadth,  and  168'  above  the 
surface  of  the  Sarine.  It  is  supported  by  four  chains,  440  yds. 
in  length,  which  form  a  single  arch,  the  eictremities  being 
secured  by  128  anchors  attached  to  blocks  of  stone  at  a  consider- 
able depth  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  Before  the  construc- 
tion of  this  bridge  the  descent  into  the  ravine  and  the  ascent  on 
the  other  side  occupied  a  full  hour. 

A  little  farther  up  is  the  Pont  de  Ootteron^  a  similar  struc- 
ture, completed  in  1840,  spanning  the  ValUe  de  Ootteron ,  a 
deep  and  romantic  rocky  ravine,  which  opens  into  the  valley  of 
the  Sarine.  The  construction  of  the  bridge  (249  yds.  in  length, 
and  305'  above  the  water)  is  in  some  respects  more  remarkable 
than  that  of  its  neighbour,  as  the  wire-chains  are  secured  in 
the  sandstone  rock  itself,  and  pillars  are  thus  dispensed  with. 

The  *CI]iiirch  of  St.  KicholMf  the  episcopal  cathedral,  recently 
restored,   with  its  slender  tower  (280'  in  height,   erected  1452) 


to  LaUBanne.  FREIBURG.  39.  BouU.      161 

is  a  fine  Gothic  edifice  (founded  in  1285,   completed  in   1500), 
with  some  remarkable  reliefs  on  the  portals. 

The  *Orffany  one  of  the  flneat  in  Europe,  with  67  stops  and  7800 
pipes,  some  of  them  33'  in  length,  was  built  by  Al.  Mooter  (d.  1839), 
whose  bust  has  been  placed  under  the  instrument  to  the  r.  —  Performances 
on  it  may  be  heard  every  evening  in  summer  after  dusk,  except  on  Satur- 
days and  -the  eves  of  festivals,  when  the  hour  is  1.  30  p.  m.  ^  tickets  at 
the  hotels  1  fr.  each  (fee  for  a  concert  at  other  times  90  fr.  for  a  party  of 
12;  5  fr.  each  additional  pers.).  —  The  old  carved  Stalls  deserve  notice. 
The  second  cbapel  on  the  8.  side  contains  a  fine  modern  picture  by  De- 
schwanden^  representing  St.  Anne  and  St.  Mary.  The  choir  possesses  three 
modem  stained-glasa  windows,  St.  Nicholas  and  other  saints.  A  tablet 
on  the  8.  pillar  at  the  entrance  to  the  choir  is  to  the  memory  of  Peter 
Canisitu  (d.  1597),  the  first  German  Jesuit,  celebrated  for  his  theological 
writings. 

The  StadtliaiU)  or  Town  HaU^  near  the  church,  occupies 
the  site  of  the  palace  of  the  dukes  of  Zahringen.  Adjacent  is 
the  Bathhaus,  or  Council  Mall  with  a  clock-tower.  In  front  of 
these  buildings  stands  an  aged  lime-tree,  14'  in  circumference, 
partly  supported  by  stone  pillars.  According  to  tradition,  this 
venerable  tree  was  originally  a  twig,  borne  by  a  young  native  of 
Freiburg  when  he  arrived  in  the  town  breathless  and  exhausted 
from  loss  of  blood,  to  announce  to  his  fellow-citizens  the  victory 
of  Morat.  'Victory'  was  the  only  word  he  could  summon  strength 
to  utter,  and  having  thus  fulfilled  his  mission,  he  expired. 
Adjoiuing  the  square  by  the  old  lime  stands  the  Monument 
of  Father  Oregoire  Oirard  (b,  at  Freiburg  1766,  d.  1850). 

A  long  flight  of  steps  leads  from  the  Council  Uall  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  town  and  the  river.  The  pavement  of  the  street 
Grand  -  Fontaine  serves  as  a  roof  to  the  houses  of  the  Court- 
Chemtn^  while  the  arch  over  the  street  is  a  conduit  for  convey ii  g 
water  to  the  lower  portion  of  the  town  in  case  of  fire. 

Near  the  Gate  of  Morat  is  the  Jesuits'  College,  founded  by 
Father  Canisius  (see  above)  in  1584,  and  suppressed  after  the  war 
of  the  Separate  League  in  1847.  The  extensive  building  occu- 
pies the  highest  and  most  conspicuous  site  in  the  town.  Near 
it  is  the  extensive  and  loftily  situated  Priests^  Seminary. 

The  Hermitage  of  St.  Magdalena,  on  the  Sarine,  3^2  M.  below  the  towr , 
a  cell  and  chapel  hewn  in  the  rock,  frequently  attracts  the  curious,  but 
is  scarcely  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Railway  Journey.  Beyond  Freiburg  the  finest  views 
are  always  to  the  1.,  the  MoUson  (p.  157)  being  the  most  pro- 
minent feature  in  the'  landscape.  The  Sense y  with  its  perpei- 
dicular  banks,  and  a  four-arched  bridge,  are  also  seen  to  the  1. 
Stations  Matran^  Ntyruz,  Cottens ,  Chenensy  VUlaz-St.  Pierrt. 
Then  to  the  1.  the  fertile  and  well  peopled  slopes  of  the  Oihlotx 
(^3947').  To  the  1.  near  Romont  lies  the  nunnery  of  La  FilU-  , 
Diea;  beyond  it  rise  the  mountains  of  Savoy. 

Boment  (2542')  (Cerf;  Couronne;  Croix  Blanche) ,  on  the 
Olaney  the  principal  place  in  this  district,  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  an  eminence,  and  surrounded  by  ancient  walls  and 

Bapbusb,  Switzerland.  6th  Edition.  11 


162     Route  39.  RUE. 

watch-towers.     The  Schloss  on  the  S.  side,  founded  by  the  Bnr- 
gundian   kings  in  the   10th   cent. ,    is  now  the  residence  of  the 

Amtmann. 

From  Romont  to  Bulle  (p.  156)  branch  railway  in  >|4  hr.  (fares 
1  fr.  65,  1  fr.  25  c.  \  stations  Vuistemens,  Saleg^  Vavlrut)^  of  which  travellers 
intending  to  ascend  the  Mol^son,  or  to  make  the  tour  described  in  R.  38, 
may  avail  themselves. 

Beyond  Romont  a  fine  mountain  view  is  obtained,  Mont  Blanc 
and  the  Dent  du  Midi  being  most  conspicuous;  to  the  1.  are 
the  Dent  de  Jaman  and  the  Mol^son.  Stations  Siviriez  and 
Vauderensy  beyond  which  the  train  commands  a  fine  prospect  t6 
the  r.  of  an  undulating,  fertile  district,  bounded  by  the  Jura 
range.  On  an  eminence  In  the  foreground  to  the  r.  is  situated 
the  picturesque  little  town  of 

Hue  (2323')  (Maison  de  ViUe;  Fleur  de  Lys)  y  commanded 
by  an  old  castle  with  pinnacled  walls.  The  valley  is  watered  by 
the  Broye,  which  falls  into  the  Lake  of  Morat  and  connects  it  with 
the  Lake  of  Neuchatel.  At  Oron  le  Chdtelet  the  line  intersects 
the  rocks  of  the  castle-hill,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  is  the 
station ;  Oron  la  Ville  lies  below,  to  the  r.  Beyond  stat.  PaUxieux 
(Oranges)  the  mountains  become  more  conspicuous.  Chexbrea  is 
the  station  for  Vevay  (see  below). 

Beyond  the  next  tunnel  a  •*view  of  singular  beauty,  embracing 
the  greater  part  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva  and  the  surrounding 
mountains,  is  suddenly  disclosed.  In  the  direction  of  Yevay, 
which  is  not  itself  visible,  are  the  Pleiades,  the  Dent  de  Jaman, 
the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  and  the  mountains  of  Savoy;  the  fore- 
ground consists  of  numerous  villages  in  the  midst  of  vineyards. 
Beyond  stat.  Orand-  Vaux^  the  villages  of  Lutry,  PuUy,  and  Ouchy 
on  the  bank  of  the  lake  become  visible,  and,  to  the  r.,  Lau- 
sanne. Beyond  another  tunnel  and  a  viaduct  the  train  reaches 
stat.  La  Conversion  (Lutry)^  and  soon  crosses  the  valley  of  the 
Paudhze  by  a  long  viaduct  of  nine  arches.  Below  it  is  an 
iron  viaduct  of  the  Western  line.  After  another  short  tunnel, 
the  train  reaches  Lausanne,  where  the  Oron-line  unites  -mth 
the  Western. 

From  LanstniM  to  Geneva,  or  to  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  by 
steamboat  or  by  the  Western  line,  see  R.  48.  Omnibus,  see  p.  191. 

From  Ghezbrei  to  Yevay. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  188. 

Distance  4  M.  Station  RUfwt  (St.  Saphorin)  on  the  Western  line,  be- 
low the  village  of  Chexbres  to  the  S.E.,  is  1^(3  M.  nearer.  The  diligence, 
which  leaves  Vevay  1^9—2  hrs.  before  the  arrival  of  the  trains  at 
Chexbres,  ascends  in  lij*  hr.  Beautiful  views,  especially  on  the  descent 
to  Vevay. 

The  view  from  the  station  is  limited ;  the  mountains  of  Savoy 
only  are  .visible,  and  to  the  1. ,  in  the  background  of  the  Rhone 
valley,  Mont  Catogne.     On  leaving  the  station,  the  road  ascends 


AARBERG.  40.  Route.     I6f^ 

^/2  M.,  then  descends  nearly  V2  ^'  ^  ^^®  large  village  of  Chexbres; 
1^2  ^-  fftrther  it  crosses  the  M^estern  line,  and  soon  reaches 
the  Lausanne  and  Yevay  road.  To  Vevay  l*/^  M.  more,  the  last 
part  of  the  \(ay  between  vineyard-walls,   uninteresting. 

During  th«  descent  a  magnificent  ** prospect,  not  inferior  to  that 
commanded  by  the  railway  to  Laoaanne,  above  described,  though  dis- 
closing itself  more  gradually,  is  eigoyed.  The  best  point  of  view  is  the 
*BiffBal  da  OhezVrea  (1919')  {* mtel  du  Signal^  with  garden),  ija  M.  from 
the  Stat.  At  the  spectator's  feet  lies  the  greater  part  of  the  I^ke  of  Geneva ; 
to  the  1.  Vevay  \  above  it  flrom  1.  to  r.  extends  the  saddle  of  the  Pas  de 
Janan,  commanded  by  the  Dent  de  Jaman,  so  called  from  its  tooth-like 
form,  and  the  broad  back  of  the  Rochers  de  Naye;  then  the  twin  peaks 
of  the  Tour  d^Ay  and  de  Morges,  rising  from  the  mountain  which  bounds 
the  lake;  farther  back  the  Orand - Moveran  and  the  Dent  de  Morcles.  In 
the  centre  the  background  is  formed  by  the  pyramid  of  Mont  Catogne,  on 
the  1.  of  which  rises  the  snowy  cone  of  Mont  V^lan  ^  then  the  mountains 
of  Savoy,  the  highest  of  which  is  the  Dent  d'Oche  with  its  broad  back. 
As  Vevay  is  approached,  the  Orand^Moveran  in  the  Rhone  Valley  to  the  1. 
seems  to  recede,  and  the  long,  indented,  and  partially  snow -clad  crest  of 
the  Dent  du  Midi,  to  the  r.,  behind  the  mountains  of  Savoy,  to  advance. 

40.   From  Bern  to  Neuch&tel  by  Morat.    AvenchM. 

Payeme. 

Railway  &y  Bern  and  Bienne,  see  p.  10,  besides  which  there  are 
the  two  following  routes : 

(1).  Road  hy  Aarberg  and  Ins.  Diligence  in  SWa  hrs. ,  distance 
31i|4  M. 

The  road  intersects  the  Enge  (p.  99),  crosses  the  Aare,  and  ascends  to 
liaHnrch^  where  a  pleasing  panorama  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  hill 
(2090').  It  then  descends  by  Frienisberg^  once  a  Cistercian  monastery,  now 
a  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  to 

12i|sM.  Aarberg  (1479')  (Kr<me),  an  important  military  point,  situated 
on  a  hill  which  is  entirely  surrounded  by  the  Aare  when  swollen.  The 
church  is  adjoined  by  the  ancient  palace  of  the  counts  of  Aarberg,  who 
sold  tiieir  town  to  Bern  in  1S51.  The  road  next  traverses  the  extensive 
Aarberger  Moo*t  and  leads  through  an  undulating  district  to 

9i|sM.  Ina»  Fr.  Anet  (Bdr)^  on  a  hill,  which  affords  an  admirable 
survey  of  the  three  lakes  and  the  whole  of  the  Alps  from  the  Titlis  to 
Mont  Blanc. 

Diligence  to  Morat  once,  to  Neuveville  twice  daily  in  1  br. ,  see  p.  10. 

Passing  the  S.W.  slopes  of  the  Jolimont  (1982'),  the  road  descends  to 
the  Zihl  Bridge,  the  boundary  between  the  cantons  of  Bern  and  Neu- 
chatel.  At  Mcmimiraa  there  is  a  well  -  conducted  Moraviem  Instiiutwn  for 
girls,  not  far  from  which,  on  the  lake,  is  the  Frt/argierAiflum  (p.  167). 

At  St.  Blaiae  (Chetal  Blanc)  the  lake  and  the  railway  (p.  11)  are 
reached. 

93(4  M.    Henehital,  see  p.  166. 

(2).  Road  by  Morat.  Diligence  twice  daily  to  Morat  (i7M.)  in 
3  hrs.,  in  correspondence  with  the  steamboat  to  Neuchatel  (in  lijshr.). 

This  road  quits  Bern  by  the  Obere  Thor  and  passes  through 
Frauenkappelen  J  so  named  from  a  suppressed  convent  (to  the  1. 
a  distant  view  of  the  Alps  of  Bern  and  Freiburg)  and  Mukleberg. 
Beyond 

IOV2  M.  eftmminen  (1591')  (Laupen,  3  M.  to  the  S.,  p.  159), 
the  road  crosses  the  Sarinty  which  falls  into  the  Aare  3  M. 
loyrer  down.  At  Bihertn  it  enters  the  Canton  of  Freiburg  and 
approaches  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Morat. 

11  • 


164      Route  40.  MORAT. 

6^2  M.  Horat  (1522'),  Ger.  Murien  (*Couronne  or  Post;  Aigle; 

Lion,  on  the  lake),  a  small  but  wealthy  town,  with  2328  inhab. 

(120  Bom.  Cath.),    is  situated  on  the  lake  to  which  it  gives  its 

name.    Its  narrow  arcaded  streets  are  overshadowed  by  an  ancient 

Castle  f  which  in  1476,    with  a  garrison  of  1500   Bernese   under 

Adr.   von   Bubenberg,    resisted  the  artillery   of  Charles  the  Bold 

for  ten  days. 

The  Battla  of  Korat,  fought  on  22nd  June,  1476,  was  the  bloodiest 
of  those  three  disastrous  contests  (Grandson,  Horat,  and  Nancy) .  in  which 
the  puissant  Duke  of  Burgundy  successively  lost  his  treasure,  his  courage, 
and  his  life  ('Gut,  Muth,  und  Bluf).  The  Confederates  numbered  barely 
34,0(X)  men.  The  Burgundians  sustained  a  loss  of  15,000  men,  with  the 
whole  of  their  am-  munition  and  baggage.  A  story  is  current  at  Morat, 
that  Napoleon  I.-,  when  on  his  way  to  the  Congress  of  Rastadt  in  1797, 
visited  the  field  of  battle,  and  remarked  to  a  young  Swiss  officer  of  his 
guard :  *■  Jeune  Capitainey  si  jamais  nous  livrons  bataille  en  ces  littiXy  soyez 
persuade  que  nous  ne  prendrons  pas  le  lac  pour  retraite.''  A  marble  Obelisk^ 
65'  high,  was  erected  on  the  battle -Aeld  in  1822,  l>j'i  M.  to  the  S.  of 
Morat.  The  Oymnasium,  or  grammar-school,  contains  a  collection  of  ancient 
Burgundian  weapons. 

The  Lake  of  Morat  (1427'),  termed  in  the  middle  ages 
the  Uecht-See  (comp.  p.  160),  the  Lacus  Aventicensis  of  the  Ro- 
mans, 6  M.  long,  and  3  M.  wide,  is  separated  from  the  Lake  of 
Neuchatel  by  the  narrow  Mont  VuUy  (see  below)  towards  ihe  N., 
and  the  Charmontel  to  the  S.,  but  is  connected  with  it  by  the 
river  Broye. 

The  Steamboat  steers  due  N.  from  Morat  across  the  lake 
towards  Mont  VuUy  (2267'),  which  on  the  side  towards  the  Lake  of 
Morat  is  covered  with  vines,  and  on  that  towards  the  Lake  of  Neu- 
chatel with  forests.  Near  Suffiez,  where  the  Broye  issues  from  the 
Lake  of  Morat,  the  tunnel  is  lowered  to  allow  the  steamboat  to 
pass  under  a  wooden  bridge.  To  the  W.  extends  the  Jura  chain, 
from  the  Weissenstein  near  Soleure  to  a  point  S.  of  Neuchatel. 
The  Broye ,  which  connects  the  Lakes  of  Morat  and  Neuchatel 
(the  level  <ot  the  latter  lake  is  4  inches  below  the  former),  and 
flows  round  Mont  VuUy  on  the  N.,  is  the  channel  by  which  the 
steamboat  enters  the  Lake  of  Kench&tel  near  La  8auge,  steering 
first  S.W.  to  Cudrefin,  and  afterwards  N.W.  to  Neuchatel.  The 
motion  in  these  small  vessels  is  considerable  in  stormy  weather. 

Keuch&tel,  see  p.  165. 

From  Morat  to  Pay  erne  (12  M.),  a  route  historically  interesting. 
The  road  at  first  skirts  the  lake  as  far  as 

5i|4  M.  Avenches  (1519')  (Maison  de  Ville;  Couronne),  the  Rom.  Aven- 
ticuniy  the  capital  of  the  Helvetii ,  known  as  early  as  the  time  of  Ctesar, 
now  a  small  Prot.  town  (pop.  1835). 

The  remains  of  the  great  amphitheatre  and  other  public  buildings,  and 
especially  the  walls  with  their  handsome  towers,  still  easily  traced,  bear 
testimony  to  the  former  magnificence  of  the  city  *,  and  as  it  was  the  largest 
Roman  settlement  in  Switzerland,  so  it  is  now  the  richest  field  for  anti- 
quarian research.  The  road  from  Horat  passes  through  a  fragment  of 
the  old  wall,  li|2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town.  In  the  background  to  the  1. 
stand  the  ruins  of  an  old  tower,  the  best  •  preserved  remains  of  Roman 
architecture  iA  the  place.    Close  to  the  town,  also  on  the  1.,  is  a  solitary 


NEUCHATEL.  4 1 .  Route.      1 65 

marble  column  of  the  Corinthian  order,  39'  high,  supposed  to  be  a  remnant 
ol'  a  tomple  of  Apollo,  and  now  termed  Le  Cigognifr^  from  a  stork's  nest 
having  occupied  its  capital  for  many  ages. 

*■  By  a  lone  wall  a  lonelier  column  rears 
A  grey  and  grief-worn  aspect  of  old  days/ 

Ch.  Har.  Pil.  Cant.  III.,  65. 

Most  of  the  antiquities  found  at  Avenches  have  been  removed  to  the 
maseumg  of  Bern  and  Lausanne.  Becent  investigations  have  brought 
to  light  mosaic  pavements ,  fragments  of  pillars ,  inscriptions ,  utensils 
of  all  sorts,  and  other  interesting  relics ,  which  are  preserved  in  a  Mu- 
seum neir  the  Amphitheatre. 

For  centuries  a  tradition  was  current  that  a  tombstone  to  the  memory  of 
a  daughter  of  Julius  Alpinus  had  been  discovered  at  Avenches,  the  supposed 
inscription  on  which  Lord  Byron  describes  as  a  most  atVecting  composition 
(see  Ch.  Har.  Pil..  C.  111.,  66,  67);  but  modem  investigations  have  rudely 
dispelled  the  illusion.  A  certain  Paulus  Gulielmus,  who  lived  in  the  16th 
cent.,  is  said  to  have  imposed  upon  the  credulity  of  posterity  by  inventing 
both  monument  and  inscription. 

6>|4  M.  Payerne  (I486') •(Oui-«;  Reine  Berihe)^  the  PaUmiantm  (?)  of  the 
Bomans,  destroyed  by  the  barbarianis,  and  rebuilt  in  the  7th  cent. ,  now  a 
small  town  with  3259  inhab.,  still  contains  reminiscencea  ol  Bertha^  (^ueen 
of  Rudolph  IL  of  Burgundy,  the  benefactress  of  the  district,  who  is  said 
to  have  employed  much  of  her  time  in  spinning.  To  this  day,  in  al- 
luding to  the  departure  of  Hhe  good  old  times',  the  French  Swiss  fre- 
quently use  the  expression,  'Ce  n^ett  plu»  le  tempi  oii  Berthe  JHait\ 

41.    Haiich&tel  and  the  Chanmont. 

HdMa.  ^BsLLEVUE,  in  an  open  situation  on  the  lake,  R.  from  2  fr., 
B.  1,  D.  at  1  o'cl.  3,  at  5  o'cl.  4,  L.  >|s,  A.  1  fr. ,  omnibus  *\a  fr. ;  *Gkamo 
Hotel  du  Uont  Blanc,  on  the  lake,  R.  3,  B.  l>|s  L.  and  A.  ls|4  fr. ; 
GuAND  Hotel  du  Lac,  near  the  lake,  K.  2,  D.  3,  A.  ija,  omnibus  'jg  fr.  ^ 
^HoTBL  DU  Lag  (with  caf(i),  on  the  quay;  Faucon,  in  the  town,  com- 
mercial^ Hotel  du  Commbbcb,  near  the  post-ofiice.  —  Rtiiuurant  in  the 
Palais  Rougemont  (p.  166). 

Railway  -  Station  high  above  the  town  to  the  I?.  E.,  a  long  way  from 
the  steamboat  -  pier.  Pedestrians  should  quit  the  hot,  dusty  road  near  the 
station,  and  descend  to  the  lake  by  the  shady  walks  to  the  1.  —  Omaibaa 
to  or  from  the  station  90  c. ,  box  ( under  50  lbs. )  15  c.  —  Steamboat  to 
Tverdon  see  p.  171,  to  Morat  see  p.  164. 

Swimming  Batha  at  the  harbour,  bath  40  c. 

Wines.  The  wine  of  Neuch&tel  is  much  esteemed;  the  best  red  wine 
is  grown  at  Cortaillod  (p.  172)  and  Derrttre-Moulina^  the  best  white  between 
St.  Blaise  (p.  163)  and  Auvemier  (p.  169),  and  at  Bevaix  (p.  173).  Sparkling 
wine  is  also  manufactured  here. 

Watches.  The  manufacture  of  watches  is  the  most  important  branch 
of  industry  in  the  canton,  particularly  at  La  Chaux-de-Fondt  and  Le  Lode 
CR.  42),  where  many  of  the  watches  sold  at  Geneva  are  made.  —  Ladies' 
and  gentlemen's  watches  (works  warranted)  may  be  purchased  of  Jean- 
Jeanjaquet  Frires,  and  of  Rod.  Schmid. 

The  Prineipulily  of  Neuchdtel  belonged  to  Burgundy  down  to  the  11th 
cent.,  when  it  was  united  to  the  German  Empire.  In  1288  it  was  ceded  by 
the  Emperor  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  to  John  of  Chalons,  whose  great-grandson 
John  HI.  became  Prince  of  Orange  by  marriage.  After  the  Chalons  family 
bad  become  extinct,  the  principality  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Counts 
of  Freiburg  and  Hochberg.  In  1608  it  subsequently  descended  by  marriage 
to  the  house  of  Orleans  -  Longueville ,  which  also  became  extinct  in  1707. 
It  was  then  ai^udged  by  the  estates  to  Frederick  I.  of  Prussia,  who  was 
selected  from  among  fifteen  competitors  as  being  descended  on  the  mother's 
side  from  John  III.  of  Orange,  and  remained  among  the  possessions  of  the 
crown  of  Prussia  for  a  century.  In  18U6  Napoleon ,  who  had  obtained  pos- 
session of  the  principality,  created  Alexander  Berthier,  one  of  his  marshals, 


'  166     Route  41.  NEUCHATEL. 

Prince  of  Neochatel,  but  eight  years  later  it  waa  restored  to  Prussia. 
The  following  year  (1815)  Neuch&tel,  which  as  early  as  1406  had  been 
in  close  alliance  witti  several  Swiss  towns,  and  fought  side  by  side  with 
them,  formally  joined  the  Confederacy  as  the  21st  canton ,  though  it  still 
remained  under  Prussian  protection.  The  bond  which  connected  it  with 
Prussia  was  finally  dissolved  by  a  treaty  signed  at  Paris,  26th  May,  1857. 

Veneh^tel  (1433'),  the  capital  of  the  canton  of  that  name, 
with  13,321  Inhab. ,  is  built  on  a  somewhat  steep  slope  of  the 
Jura,  rising  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  with  the  lake, 
27  M.  long,  And  6  M.  wide,  at  its  base.  The  modem  part  of 
the  town,  with  its  handsome  houses,  grounds,  and  *quay  nearly 
Vs  M.  long,  is  situated  on  the  lake,  on  a  strip  of  land  formed  by 
the  deposit  brought  down  by  the  8ty<m  from  the  CkoMeral.  In 
order  to  gain  space  for  building  purposes,  a  new  channel  was 
constructed  for  the  Seyon  above  the  town  by  means  of  a  tunnel 
{Tunnel  de  la  TrouSe  du  Seyon,  p.  167),  176  yds.  in  length. 

The  Sehlon,  on  an  eminence,  is  the  seat  of  the  cantonal  govern- 
ment. Near  it  stands  the  Temple  dn  Hant,  erected  in  the  12th 
century.  The  choir  contains  a  handsome  Gothic  monument  with 
15  life-size  figures  in  stone,  erected  in  1372  by  a  Count  of 
Neuchatel,  and  restored  in  1840.  There  are  also  memorial  stones 
to  the  Prussian  Governor  Oencral  von  Zagtrow  (d.  iS9&y,  and  the 
reformer  Farel  (d.  1565). 

The  College 9  a  large  new  edifice  on  the  lake,  contains  a 
small  natural  history  collection,  founded  by  Professor  Agasaiz  (comp. 
p.  135),  now  resident  in  America. 

In  the  vicinity,  in  the  open  square  to  the  S.,  facing  the 
lake,  is  a  bronze  *Staiue^  erected  in  1855,  of  David  de  Pnry 
(d.  1786),  a  wealthy  philanthropist  and  native  of  Neuchatel, 
who  bequeathed  4^2  million  francs  to  the  town. 

The  *Pietiire  Gallery   in  the   H6tel  Dupeyron   (^Cercle   du 

Musi^e",  the  former  Palais  Rougemont),  in  the  N.E.  suburb  (near 

which  a  footpath  ascends  to  the  station,   comp.  p.  165),  consists 

chiefly  of  modem   Swiss  works,    some  of  them  of  great  merit. 

(Adm.  V2  fr.5  Sundays  1 — 4  gratis.) 

The  Entsanck  Hall  contains  casts.  —  1st  Room.  18.  K.  Oirardel^  Crom- 
well reproached  by  his  daughter  Mrs.  Clay  pole  for  the  death  of  Charles  I.  \ 
23.  Oratclaudet  A  richly-dressed  lad^  kneeling  at  the  feet  of  the  Doge 
Marino  Falieri;  50.  Robert  y  The  basilica  of  S.  Paolo  fuori  le  Mnra,  near 
Rome  after  the  fire  of  1823 ;  *16.  Oirardet^  A  Huguenot  assembly  surpriaed 
by  Rom.  Cath.  soldiery;  12.  Calame  (d.  1864),  Rosenlaui  Glacier;  22. 
Oirardety  The  good-for-nothing;  37.  Meurotiy  Pastures  between  Iseltwald 
and  the  Faulhom;  33.  JeckliUy  l^ke  of  Wallenstadt.  —  2nd  Room 
(right).  Over  the  door:  8.  Berthouty  Young  Savoyard;  24.  Grotclaude, 
'Vive  le  vin  de  1834!';  19.  OirardeL,  A Father'sblessing ;  Leopold  Robert^ 
Roman  oj^en ;  66.  Ttchaggenif ,  Mother  and  child  pursued  by  a  bull ; 
*57.  Tichaggeny^  Flemish  bridal  procession  of  the  17th  cent. ;  40.  MoriiXy 
Henry  II.  of  Longueville  in  the  castle  of  Colombier;  32.  M.  de  Meunm^ 
View  of  Rome  from  the  palace  of  the  emperors,  with  the  palace  itself  and 
the  Baths  of  Caracalla;  *^13.  Calame^  Monte  Rosa.  —  3rd  Room.  Portraits 
of  Prussian  regents  and  generals;  Marie  d'Orleans  in  her  4th  year,  and 
at  a  later  age ;  Henry  II.  of  Orleans.  —  4th  Room.  Drawings  and  water- 
colours. 


NEUCHATEL.  41.  RouU.      167 

The  adjacent  building  contains  the  *Mu8ie  ChaUandej  formerly 
at  Bern  J  an  interesting  collection  of  stuffed  Alpine  animals. 

The  new  Observatory  ^  erected  for  the  benefit  of  the  watch- 
manufacturers,  is  in  telegraphic  communication  with  Chaux-de- 
Fonds  and  Le  Lode  (p.  169). 

The  Charitable  Institntiont  of  Neuchatel  are  in  high  repute. 
The  most  important  are  the  Municipal  Hotpitcd^  founded  by  David 
de  Pury,  the  PourtaUg  HotpiUd,  near  the  Bern  gate,  and  the 
Pr6fargi€r9  Lunatic  Asylum,  3  M.  from  Neuchatel,  erected  by 
M.  de  Meuiton  in  1844  at  a  cost  of  1^2  million  fr. ,  and  pre- 
sented to  the  canton. 

The  ^Ohawnoat  (38i5'),  a  spur  of  the  Jura  chain ,  riaing  to  the  N.  of 
the  town,  ccMHinands  the  most  beautiful  view  in  the  vicinity  of  Neuchatel, 
embracing  the  lakes  of  Neuchatel,  Morat,  and  Bienne,  the  towns  of  Soleure, 
Bern,  Freiburg,  and  the  fertile  hill-country  lying  between  them,  with  the 
entire  Alpine  chain  from  the  Sentis  to  Mont  Blanc  in  the  background. 
The  aftenioon  light  is  the  most  favourable,  but  a  perfectly  clear  horison 
is  unfortunately  rare.  H6UI  ChatanonU  H\  hr.  below  the  summit.  The  foot- 
path diverges  from  the  Chaux-de-Fonds  road  1>J4  H.  from  Neuchatel, 
and  leads  to  the  summit  in  1  hr. ;  the  carriage-road  diverges  li)4  M.  farther 
on,  leading  to  the  summit  in  li|x  hr.    Char-lt-bancs  there  and  back  10  fr. 

42.  From  Veuchitel  to  Le  Locle  by  Chaux-de-Fonds 

and  back  by  Les  Fonts. 

Railway  (*Le  Jura  Induttrier)  from  Nench&tel  to  Le  Locle  by 
Chaux-de-Fonds  in  QMs  brs.;  fares  5  fr.  70,  4  fr.  10,  3  fr.  00  c.  — -  Di- 
li ffe  nee  from  Le  Locle  to  Neuchatel  by  Les  Fonts  in  4  hrs. ,  fare 
4  fr.  25  c. 

The  railway -journey  from  Neuch&tel  to  stat.  Rants  Geneveys  (1740^ 
above  the  lake  ot  Neuchfttel)  is  very  attractive  in  clear  weather,  as  it 
commands  beautiful  views  of  the  lake,  the  Bernese  Alps,  and  Mont  Blanc. 
The  traveller  should  secure  a  seat  on  the  left  (S.E.)  side. 

Neuchatel  station,  see  p.  165.  The  line  skirts  the  heights 
behind  the  town  and  the  castle,  running  for  some  distance  parallel 
to  the  Pontarlier  and  Lausanne  lines.  To  the  1.  below  is  the 
Tunnel  de  la  Trouie  du  Seyon  (p.  166).  The  line  then  crosses 
the  Seyon  and  passes  through  a  tunnel,  660  yds.  long,  immedi- 
ately above  the  two  viaducts  (p.  169)  over  the  gorge  of  Serriftres. 
Beyond  it,  a  beautiful  ^iew  of  the  lake  and  the  Alps  is  gradually 
disclosed,  the  Bernese  Alps  to  the  £.,  and  Mont  Blanc,  towering 
above  the  Alps  to  the  S.,  being  the  most  conspicuous  mountains. 
First  Stat.  CorceUes;  the  village  (1879',  p.  173)  lies  to  the  r., 
higher  up. 

Stat.  Chamhrelien  (the  village  lies  to  the  N.E. ,  nearly  above 
the  last  tunnel)  occupies  a  most  remarkable  situation.  To  the  S. , 
almost  perpendicularly  below  it,  runs  the  Pontarlier  line  (at  a 
horizontal  distance  of  about  250  yds.)  through  the  valley  of  the 
Reuse  (p.  170).  Fine  view  near  the  refreshment-room.  This 
station  is  a  terminus,  out  of  which  the  train  is  backed.  The 
view,   however,   still  continues  on  the  same  side,    as  the   train 


1 68     Route  42.      LA  CHAUX-DE-FONDS. 

now  proceeds  nearly  in  the  opposite  direction.  It  then  skirts  a 
wooded  eminence ;  to  the  r.  is  the  green  ancl  fertile  Vol  de  Ruz^ 
3  M.  wide,  with  its  numerous  vjllages;  beyond  it,  to  the  E., 
the  Chaumont  (3845',  p.  167). 

Next  Stat.  Oeneveys  -  sur  -  Coff^ane  (SSTC).  Before  stat.  Les 
Hants-Oeneveyi  (3136')  (Hdtel  Renaud)  the  line  crosses  the  road 
from  Neuchatel  to  Chanx-de-Fonds,  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Tete 
de  Rang  (4668'). 

The  road  from  l^euchatel  to  Chaux -de -Fonda,  which  passes  through 
Valangin  (2443'),  or  Vcdlengin  (Couronne),  in  the  vallev  of  the  Seponj 
traverses  the  Val  de  Ruz ,  and  leads  by  BovdeviUers  (2487  )  to  Les  Hauts- 
Geneveys,  then  ascends  to  the  N.W.  for  4i|2  M.  by  steep  zigzags  to  the  *Col 
des  Logea  (4219')  (*H6tel  d  la  Vue  des  Alpes)^  which  commands  an  exten- 
sive view  of  the  Vosges ,  the  Jura ,  and  the  entire  Alpine  chain  as  far  as 
Mont  Blanc.    The  descent  to  Chaux-de-Fonds  is  a  drive  of  1  hr. 

The  Hants  -  Geneveys  station,  the  highest  point  of  view 
on  the  line,  commands  an  imposing  prospect  of  Mont  Blanc. 
The  train  shortly  after  enters  a  tunnel,  1^/4  M.  In  length 
(7  min.)  under  the  Col  des  Loges.  Stat.  Convers,  at  the  N. 
extremity  of  the  tunnel,  stands  amidst  wild  scenery ,  surrounded 
by  almost  perpendicular  rocks,  through  a  small  opening  in  ^  hich 
the  road  leads  to  the  unimportant  village  of  Les  ConverSj  1  M. 
distant.  The  train  then  passes  through  a  tunnel  3/4  M.  long 
(3  min.)  under  Mont  Sagne,  and  through  another  near 

La  Chanx-de-FondB  (3254')  (*Fleur  de  Lys^  adjoining  the 
post-office;  OuiUaume  Tell;  Balance;  Lion  d*Or).  The  traveller 
will  be  surprised  to  find  in  this  remote  and  sterile  Alpine  valley, 
situated  as  high  as  the  top  of  Snowdon,  and  Imperfectly  supplied 
with  water,  an  important  town  with  handsome  houses,  containing 
19,930  Inhab. ,  whose  skill  and  industry  enable  them  to  defy 
the  rigours  of  a  climate  in  which  corn  only  ripens  In  the  warmest 
summers.  The  division  of  labour  is  here  carried  out  to  its  fullest 
extent,  each  portion  of  ^ the  mechanism  of  the  watch  being  confided 
to  a  separate  class  of  workmen,  while  another  class  Is  employed 
in  giving  the  finishing  touches  to  the  completed  work.  Upwards 
of  160,000  watches  are' manufactured  here  annually,  and  about 
85,000  in  the  rival  town  of  Le  Locle. 

The  watchmakers  are  almost  exclusively  natives  of  the  canton, 
whilst  the  other  artlzans  come  from  other  districts ,  chiefly 
from  German  Switzerland.  The  hotels  are  principally  frequented 
by  commercial  travellers,  and  several  extensive  firms  at  Hamburg, 
Trieste,  etc.  have  agents  constantly  resident  In  the  town. 

The  traveller  detained  here  may  visit  the  Church  with  its 
artistically  vaulted  ceiling,  and  the  subterranean  Mills.  At  the  N.W. 
end  of  the  town  is  the  spacious  School-House^  near  which  many 
other  handsome  edifices  have  recently  sprung  up. 

Near  Chaux-de-Fonds  the  railway  makes  a  sharp  bend  to- 
wards the  S.W.,  and  traverses  a  monotonous  green  Alpine  valley 
(stat.  Eplatures  half-way)  to 


LE  LOCLE.  42.  Route.      1 69 

Ii0  IiOcle  (302^')  (*Trois  Jiou)y  a  town  similar  in  character 
to  the  last,  which  was  entirely  burned  down  a  few  years  ago,  but 
has  siifce  been  re-erected,  with  10,333  inhab.  (1015  Rom.  Cath.), 

most  of  whom  are  watch-makers. 

Tlie  «]tod&«  fendne,  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Locle  on  the  French  frontier, 
is  a  cutting  in  the  rock,  began  in  1799,  and  lately  completed,  by  which 
the  road  from  Locle  to  Beaan^on  effecta  a  saving  of  6  M.,  and  avoids 
the  steep  ascent  of  Les  Brenets  (^Couronne;  *Lion  d'Or).  A  visit  should 
be  paid  to  the  neighbouring  subterranean  Mills  of  Cut  det  Roches  (Inn), 
situated  one  abova  another  in  the  face  of  a  perpendicular  precipice ,  and 
worked  by  the  water  of  the  Bted,  which  descends  from  a  height  of  KXK, 
working  each  mill  in  succession.  On  the  road  to  the  Roche  Fendue  stands 
Les  BillodeSy  a  school  for  poor  children. 

The  *Saat  da  Sonbs,  a  picturesque  waterfall,  9y  high  ( several  inns ), 
4i|s  M.  to  the  N.  W.  of  Le  i.ocle,  also  deserves  a  visit  (1  hr.  by  char-4- 
bancs,  5  fr.).  It  is  best  seen  from  the  French  side.  Above  the  waterfall  the 
river  expands,  resembling  a  lake^  below,  it  flows  for  6  M.  through  a  rocky 
gorge  lOUK  in  depth,  forming  the  frontier  between  France  and  Switr.erland. 
The  pedestrian  may  here  e^joy  a  charming  variety  of  rock  and  river 
scenery,  and  also  lower  down,  as  far  as  Goumois  and  8te.  Ursannt. 

The  high  road  from  Locle  to  Neuchatel  traverses  a  monotonous 
valley  (to  the  r.  La  Ckaux-du-Milieu)^  and  descends  to 

6/^4  M.  Ii6B  Ponti  (3389'),  where  the  road  crosses  the  Sagne 
valley.  From  Les  Petits  Fonts  a  road  runs  to  the  S.W.  into  the 
valley  of  Travers  (diligence,  see  p.  167).  Near  La  Toume  (3710') 
(*Inn)  the  road  reaches  the  crest  of  the  mountain  (view),  and 
then  descends  to  MontmoUinj  where  it  crosses  the  line  from 
Neuchatel  to  Chaux<>de-Fonds  (p.  168).  It  next  leads  to  Cor- 
eelUs  (1883';  p.  173),  Peseui,  and  finally  to 

123/4  M.  Keuch&tel. 

43.  From  Henchfttel  to  Pontarlier  through  the  Val 

do  Travers. 

Railway  C Franco- Suisse')  in  2-2«(4  hrs.-,  fares  6  fr.  10,  4  fr.  70,  3  fr. 
55  c.  (comp.  Introd.  X).  —  This  is  the  direct  route  from  W.  Switzerland  to 
Paris,  by  I>6le,  Auxonne,  D\)on,  etc. 

lliis  Jura-railway  (comp.  p.  167)  is  another  very  interesting  line,  tra- 
versing a  beautiful  country  for  a  considerable  distance.  A  seat  should  be 
selected  on  the  left  (S.  E.)  side.  The  most  remarkable  portions  of  the  line 
are  between  Neuchatel  and  Koiraigue ,  between  Boveresse  and  the  last 
tunnel  above  St.  Sulpice,  and  between  St.  Pierre  de  la  Cluse  and  Pontarlier. 
The  other  parts  of  the  line  traverse  green  valleys,  overshadowed  by  the 
fir-clad  mountains  of  the  Jura  range. 

The  Pontarlier  line,  running  parallel  with  that  to  Yverdon 
(p.  172)  as  far  as  stat.  Auvernier,  crosses  the  Seyoriy  and  passes 
through  a  short  tunnel  under  the  high-road  to  the  Val  de  Tra- 
vers and  Le  Locle.  Beyond  the  tunnel  the  traveller  enjoys  a 
beautiful  •view  of  the  lake  and  the  Alps  (comp.  p.  167).  The  line 
traverses  vine-clad  slopes  at  a  considerable  height,  and  then 
crosses  the  Gorge  of  Sertilres  by  a  lofty  viaduct.  Above  the  latter 
stands  the  small  castle  of  Beauregard. 

The  train  now  descends  to  stat.  Auvernier  (1479')  (IVj  M. 
from  the  hydropathic  establishment  of  Chaniiaz,  pension  6 — 8  fr.), 


170     Route  43.  FLEURIER. 

where  the  Yverdoii  railway  (p.  172)  diverges  to  the  1. ;  then, 
again  ascending,  it  commands  an  admirable  view  of  the  lake  and 
the  Alps.  At  the  entrance  to  the  wooded  ravine  of  the  Reuse 
(the  1.  bank  of  which  the  line  follows  through  the  Val  de  Travers 
to  its  source  near  St.  Sulpice,  see  below),  the  lofty  viaduct  of  the 
Yverdon  line  is  visible  far  below  to  the  1.  The  last  glimpse  of 
the  lake  down  this  romantic  valley  is  particularly  picturesque.  The 
train  then  enters  a  tunnel,  high  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  valley, 
with  the  little  river  below  to  the  1. ,  almost  below  the  station 
of  Chambrelien  (p.  167)  on  the  Neuchatel  and  Chaux-de-Fonds 
line.  After  passing  through  four  more  tunnels,  the  train  reaches 
Stat.  Koiraigae  (2359'),  at  the  N.  base  of  the  Creux  du  Vent 
(see  below).  The  valley,  which  from  this  point  to  St.  Sulpice 
is  termed  Val  de  Travera ,  now  suddenly  changes  its  character, 
and  the  Reuse  flows  between  comparatively  level  meadows. 

Pedestrians  may  ascend  the  Orenz  dn  Yent  (p.  173)  in  2  hrs.  by  a 
steep  path  from  Voiraigue,  and  descend  to  Boudrp  or  St.  Aubin  (p.  174). 
The  view  is  far  more  striking  when  the  ascent  is  made  from  this  side 
than  from  the  lake. 

The  line  now  traverses  level  "meadow-land ,  with  the  wooded 
heights  of  the  Jyra  on  either  side.  Along  the  hill-side  to  the  r. 
the  road  to  Le  Locle  by  Les  Fonts  winds  upwards  (comp.  p.  170) ; 
the  road  through  the  Val  de  Travers  to  Neuchatel  has  already 
been  visible  from  above  Noiraigue,  Stat.  Travera  (2392')  and 
near  it  a  tunnel.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  before  stat. 
Conyetf  a  picturesque  little  town,  is  reached,  are  mines  of  asphalt. 
Here,  and  at  Metiers  (see  below),  excellent  Extrait  d'Absynthe  is 
manufactured.  Diligence  to  Metiers  twice  daily ;  to  Le  Locle,  see 
p.  168. 

The  line  again  ascends  the  N.  slope  of  the  valley.  Far  down  on 
the  opposite  side  lies  Motier8('Traver8)  (2415'),  where  Rousseau 
spent  some  time  by  permission  of  the  Prussian  governor  Lord 
Keith,  after  having  been  expelled  from  Yverdon  by  the  government 
of  Bern,  and  wrote  his  ^Lettres  de  la  Montagne',-  which  caused 
so  great  a  sensation  at  Geneva. 

The  lofty  stat.  Boverease  is  situated  below,  and  N.W.  of  the 
village  of  that  name.  In  the  valley,  farther  on,  lies  Flearier 
(2454') ,  with  extensive  watch-manufactories.  The  train  traverses 
a  long  tunnel,  beyond  which  St.  Sulpice  (2557')  lies  below  to 
the  1.  The  scenery  is  again  extremely  picturesque.  In  the  defile 
of  La  Chainey  the  Reuse,  which  probably  flows  by  a  subterranean 
course  from  the  Lac  de  TaUikrea  41/2  M.  to  the  N.E.,  rises  in  the 
form  of  a  considerable  stream. 

The  line  here  attains  its  highest  point ;  beyond  the  last  tunnel 
it  enters  a  level  green  valley.  At  stat.  Verri^res  {Lea  Verrihrea 
Suiaaea,  3061 ') ,  the  last  Swiss  village ,  the  French  army  of  the 
East  under  Bourbaki  crossed  the  frontier  in  Feb.,  1871.  The 
line    crosses    the    French   frontier   before  Lea  Verrihrea  de  Joux 


ESTAVAYER.  44.  RouU.      171 

(3015').  Near  8t.  Pierre  de  La  Cluse  the  scenery  again  becomes 
interesting.  The  defile  of  La  Clusey  which  both  the  railway  and 
the  high-road  traverse,  is  fortified;  on  the  1.  rises  the  ancient 
Fort  da  Jonx,  strengthened  by  modern  works,  and  by  a  new  fort 
on  a  rocky  eminence  to  the  r.  Mirabeau  was  imprisoned  here  in 
1775  through  the  influence  of  his  father;  and  the  negro  chieftain 
Toussaint  TOuverture  of  Haiti  died  in  the  Fort  de  Joux,  where 
he  had  been  confined  by  order  of  Napoleon. 

The  line  crosses  the  DbuhSy  which  drains  the  Lake  of  St. 
Pointy  33/4  M.  to  the  S.W.,  and  here  emerges  from  a  valley  to 
the  1.,  and  skirts  its  1.  bank  as  far  as  Pontarlier.  Scenery  pic- 
turesque. 

Fontarlier  (2854')  (Hdtel  National;  Croix  Blanche),  a  small 
French  town  on  the  Douhs.  On  arriving ,  passengers*  luggage  is 
examined  at  the  station.'  Opposite  the  station  are  the  ^CotUge 
and  TeUgraiph  Office.  The  Urge  building  with  a  turret,  to  the 
r.  as  the  station  is  approached,  is  the  HoapitaL 

44.    From  HeachAtel  to  LaQsanne  and  Geneva. 

Lake  of  HencbAtel. 

Western  Railway.  To  Lausanne  2 — 2»f2,  to  Geneva  2>|4 — 5  hrs.  ^ 
fares  to  Lausanne  8  fr.  20,  5  fr.  95^  4  fr.  35  c,  to  Geneva  13  fr.  40,  9  fr.  60, 
6  fr.  05  c.  (comp.  Introd.  X).  Some  of  the  trains  (express)  go  to  Lausanne, 
others  to  Uorges  \  the  former  correspond  with  the  trains  from  Lausanne 
to  Geneva,  the  latter  with  those  from  Morges  to  Geneva  and  Lausanne.  — 
The  Steamboat  on  the  Lake  of  Neuchatel  plies  between  Xeuch&tel  and 
Morat  (in  l'f4  hr.,  fare  2  or  I'ls  fr.),  and  between  Neuchatel  and  Estavayer 
only  (in  1*(4  hr.,  fare  2  or  \y\t  fr.). 

The  Steamboat  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva  from  Lausanne  (Ouchy) 
or  Morges  to  Geneva  (in  3  and  2*|2  hrs.  respectively)  is  far  preferable  to 
the  railway,  affording  a  more  complete  survey  of  the  beautiful  scenery.  — 
The  railway  from  Yverdon  to  Bussigny  (where  Mont  Blanc  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Savoy  first  become  visible)  is  uninteresting.  Between  Neuchatel  and 
Geneva  a  seat  on  the  left  should  be  selected  (between  Bussigny  and 
Lausanne  on  the  right). 

The  Lake  of  Keaeh&tel  (1427'),  the  Lacm  Eburodunensia  of 
the  Romans,  is  far  inferior  to  the  lakes  of  the  higher  Alps ;  but 
the  N.  bank,  with  its  vine-clad  slopes,  overtopped  by  the  pre- 
cipitous Jura  Mts.,  commands  an  admirable  survey  of  the  Alpine 
chain  from  the  Bernese  Oberland  to  Mont  Blanc.  The  lake  is 
24  M.  in  length,  and  5  M.  in  width  at  its  broadest  part  between 
Auvtmier  and  Port  Atban,  where  it  also  attains  its  greatest  depth 

(500'). 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  lake  is  situated  St.  Blaise^  I72  ^-  ^^ 
the  E.  of  which  the  Thiele  emerges ;  in  the  background  rises  the 
Jolimont  (p.  11).  About  3  M.  farther  to  the  S.E.  is  the  influx 
of  the  Br(yye  (p.  164).  The  next  steamboat-station  is  Cudrefiny 
then 

Eitayayer  (1538^),  a  small  town  of  some  importance,  with 
the  architecturally  interesting  chateau  of  Chilnaux.     The   follow- 


1 72     Route  44.  YVERDON.  From  Neuchatel 

ing  stations  on  the  S.£.  bank  are  Font  and  Cheirea;  on  the 
opposite  side  Concise  and  CorcelleSy  see  p.  173.  On  a  promontory 
extending  far  into  the  lake,  lies  Yvonand,  i^^here  Roman  mosaic 
pavements  have  been  found,  one  of  which  is  preserved  in  the 
Museum  at  Yverdon.  At  the  end  of  the  promontory  the  Mentue 
4'niirf  into  the  lake 

Yverdon  (1433')  (*mtel  de  Londres,  R.  2,  B.  IV2  fr. ;  *CroU 
Federate),  with  5889  inhab.  (561  Rom.  Cath.),  the  Roman  Ebu- 
rodunum,  situated  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Neuchatel,  at  the 
influx  of  the  Toile,  or  Thihle,  affords  several  picturesque  walks  and 
fine  views.  This  town  was  for  twenty  years  (1805 — 25)  the  scene 
of  the  labours  of  the  philanthropic  Pestatozzi. 

This  truly  practical  philosopher,  a  native  of  Zurich,  first  devoted 
himself  to  theology  and  jurisprudence,  but  soon  abandoned  these  pursuits, 
and  interested  himself  exclusively  in  ameliorating  the  condition  of  the 
lowest  classes.  His  method  of  teaching  consists  in  directly  addressing  the 
youthful  sensations  and  conceptions,  and  constantly  calling  all  the  powers 
of  the  child  into  exercise.  During  the  life  of  this  great  and  good  man 
his  exertions  were  not  attended  with  the  success  they  merited;  but  his 
method  has  since  been  extensively  adopted,  and  its  advantages  are  now 
thoroughly  appreciated. 

The  ancient  Castle^  where  Pestalozzi's  school  was  established, 
erected  by  Conrad  of  Zahringen  in  1135,  now  contains  the  public 
schools ,  the  Town  Library,  and  a  Museum  with  numerous  curi- 
osities from  the  ancient  Swiss  lake- villages,  and  Roman  and  other 
antiquities.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  enjoys  a  high  reputa- 
tion.    Near  the  town  there  is  a  Sutphur-Bath  (Hotel  and  Pension). 

The  Ohasaeron  (5285')^  which  rises  from  the  Jura  range  to  the  N.W.  of 
Yverdon,  deserves  a  visit  for  the  sake  ot  the  fine  view  from  its  summit. 
Diligence  twice  daily  in  S^ji  hrs.  to  Ste.  Croix  (2  hrs.  from  the  top),  a 
place  noted  for  the  manufacture  of  musical  boxes,  of  which  upwards  of 
50,000  are  annually  exported.  —  The  Aiffuille  de  Beaulmes  (5128')  and  the 
Mont  Suchet  (5236')  are  also  fine  points  of  view,  which  may  be  ascended 
in  3i|2— 4  hrs. 


The  Railway  from  Neuchatel  to  the  first  stat.  Anvemier 
has  been  described  at  p.  169.  The  line  here  quits  the  lake 
(the  Pontarlier  branch  diverges  to  the  r.),  to  which  it  returns 
beyond  Bevaix  (see  below).  Stat.  Golombier  (Maison  de  Vitle) 
produces  one  of  the  most  esteemed  Neuchatel  white  wines  (p. 
165).  Some  interesting  remains  of  Roman  buildings  have  re- 
cently been  discovered  in  the  neighbourhood.  Beyond  the  village, 
on  the  bank  of  the  lake,  lies  the  manufactory  of  Le  Bied.  Beyond 
the  station  for  Boudry ,  the  train  crosses  the  deep  valley  of  the 
Reuse  (p.  170),  which  to  the  1^  near  Cortaillod,  falls  into  the 
lake.  The  best  red  wine  in  the  canton  is  produced  here.  Near 
the  village  of  Troisrods  (1692'),  immediately  above  the  station 
and  below  the  Pontarlier  line,  is  a  large  stalactite  grotte.  Boudry 
(1542')  (Maison  de  Vilte),  the  birthplace  of  Marat,  lies  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  Reuse,  at  some  distance  to  the  1.  of  the  line. 


to  Geneva.  GRANDSON.  44.  RouU.      173 

The  Greox  dnVent  (4806'), about  li/^br.  to  the  W., is  frequently  ascended 
from  Boudry  (comp.  p.  170).  The  summit  is  in  the  form  of  a  basin,  500' 
in  depth,  shaped  like  a  horse -shoe,  and  nearly  3  M.  in  circumference. 
When  the  weather  is  about  to  change,  this  crater-like  basin  is  filled  with 
surging  clouds  of  white  vapour,  which  rise  and  fall  like  the  steam  in  a 
boiling  cauldron,  but  do  not  quit  the  hollow.  The  phenomenon  seldom 
lasts  above  an  hour.  A  gun-shot  produces  a  rattling  echo,  resembling  that 
of  a  volley  of  musketry.  The  current  of  air  which  prevails  in  this  *■  hollow 
of  the  wind ',  is  frequently  so  violent  as  to  force  back  objects  of  considerable 
weight  thrown  from  the  brink.  The  rare  plants  and  minerals  found  here 
are  a  source  of  attraction  to  the  scientific. 

Beyond  stat.  Beraiz  (IdGS^)  the  line  re-approaches  the  lake, 
and  follows  its  bank  to  Yverdon.  The  Creux  du  Vent  may  also 
be  ascended  from  the  next  stat.  Gorgier  St.  Aubin  (1555')-  Oppo- 
site, on  the  S.£.  bank,  lies  the  little  town  of  Estavayer  (p.  171). 
Next  stat.  Vauxmarcus.  with  the  well-preserved  castle  of  that  name 
on  the  hill  to  the  r.  Farther  on,  to  the  r.,  La  Lance,  formerly  a 
Carthusian  monastery,  now  a  chateau  and  park  of  Count  Pourtalds. 
At  (Soneite  (1453')  (Kcu  de  Franee),  where  the  line  crosses  part  of 
the  lake  on  an  embankment,  a  number  of  ancient  flint  axes,  saws, 
chisels,  and  other  relics  of  the  lake-villages  (^Pfahlbauten')  were 
found  in  the  lake  in  1811.  Near  CoreeUea^  which  lies  to  the  r.  on 
the  high  road,  a  little  farther  on,  rise  three  rude  blocks  of  granite, 
5  to  8'  in  height,  placed  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  but  not  visible 
from  the  line.  According  to  some  they  were  erected  by  the  Swiss 
in  commemoration  of  the  battle  of  Grandson  which  was  fought  in 
the  vicinity,  but  they  are  more  probably  of  Celtic  origin. 

Battle  of  GraadaoB.  When  Charles  the  Bold  of  Burgundy  had  gained 
possession  of  the  castle  of  Grandson  by  treachery ,  and ,  contrary  to 
the  stipulation,  put  the  Swiss  garrison  to  death,  he  abandoned  his  secure 
position  at  Orandson,  and  seised  the  castle  of  Vanxmarcus,  which  com- 
mands the  road.  Here,  on  3rd  March,  1476,  he  was  surprised  and  signally 
defeated  by  the  Swiss,  justly  infuriated  bv  his  cruel  breach  of  faith.  An 
enormous  booty,  valued  at  upwards  of  250,t)00/.  sterl.,  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  victors,  together  with  numerous  trophies  now  distributed  among 
the  various  arsenals  of  the  Confederation.  Among  the  treasures  were  two 
diamonds  of  almost  incalculable  value  from  the  crown-jewels,  one  of 
which  now  adorns  the  French,  the  other  the  papal  crown. 

The  bank  of  the  lake  here  is  flat.  Stat.  Onnen8-BonviUar$ 
lies  to  the  r.,  above  the  line.  Beyond  stat.  Grandson  (Lion 
d'Or;  Croix  Rouge)  the  line  skirts  the  bank  of  the  lake,  and  passes 
through  the  precincts  of  a  picturesque  old  Chdteau  with  ivy-clad 
towers,  containing  a  small  collection  of  antiquities  and  natural 
history  specimens.  The  ancient  Churchy  the  pillars  of  which 
have  quaint  capitals,  once  belonged  to  a  Benedictine  abbey. 
The  feudal  proprietors  of  the  castle  were  among  the  most  power- 
ful in  Switzerland  as  early  as  the  9th  cent.  Otto  of  Grandson, 
the  last  of  a  noble  and  powerful  family  to  whom  the  castle  be- 
longed, was  killed  in  a  duel  in  1399  by  Gerhard  of  Estavayer, 
and  was  buried  in  the  cathedral  of  Lausanne  (p.  191). 

The  train  skirts  the  S.W.  end  of  the  lake,  crosses  the  ThihUy 
and  enters  the  station  of  Yverdon  which  lies  on  the  lake. 

TTerdon»  see  p.  172. 


174     Route  44.  COSSONAY. 

The  line  now  quits  the  Lake  of  Neuchatel,  and  enters  the 
broad  valley  of  the-  ToiUy  or  ThihUy  which  is  formed  by  the.  con- 
fluence of  the  Orbe  (p.  175)  and  the  Tcdent,  near  stat.  Ependes. 
To  the  W.  rises  the  long  chain  of  the  Jura:  the  Aiguille  de 
Beaulmes  and  Mont  Suchet  (p.  172),  and  between  them  in  the 
distance  the  Mont  d'Or,  Dent  de  Vaulion  (p.  176)  and  Mont  Tendre. 
Beyond  station  Chavomay-Orbe  (p.  175),  EcUpens-la-SarraZj 
and  CoMonay  (Hdtel  d'Angleterre),  a  small  town  on  the  lull, 
beautifully  situated  in  wood,  the  line  enters  the  picturesque, 
wooded  ravine  of  the  Vinoge^  which  is  connected  with  the  Toile 
by  means  of  a  canal.  (Railway  from  Gossonay  to  Yaliorbe,  see 
R.  45.) 

Where  the  valley  expands ,  a  distant  prospect  of  the  long 
chain  of  the  mountains  of  Savoy  is  obtained.  Beyond  Bii$$igny  a 
branch  line  diverging  to  the  r.  aflTords  direct  communication  with 
the  line  to  Morges  and  Qeneva  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  lake  (see 
below).  Near  the  station  of  Morges  a  glimpse  is  obtained  in 
clear  weather  of  the  snow-fields  of  Mont  Blanc.  Stat.  Morges  is 
nearly  i/2  M.  from  the  steamboat  quay  (p.  190).  Steamboat  from 
Morges,  or  from  Lausanne  (Ouchy),  to  Geneva,  see  R.  48. 

The  line  towards  Lausanne  unites  with  the  main-line  of  the 
N.  bank  of  the  lake  at  stat.  Renens. 

LanMume,  see  p.  190. 

Railway  to  Geneva.  The  train  from  Lausanne  to  Geneva 
returns  by  stat.  Renens.  Near  Morg«t  (p.  190)  the  line  approaches 
the  Lake  of  Geneva,  but  passes  the  village  on  the  N.W.  side. 
In  the  distance  to  the  N.W.,  above  the  valley  of  the  Morges j 
which  is  here  crossed,  rises  the  chateau  of  Vufflens  (p.  190). 
Stat.  8t.  PteXf  the  next  village,  lies  to  the  1.,  on  a  promontory 
extending  into  the  lake.  Aubonne-AUaman  is  the  station  (omnibus 
40  c.)  for  Aubonne,  situated  on  the  hill,  172^*  to  the  N.  As 
Bolle  is  approached,  the  Signal  de  Bougy  (p.  190),  a  celebrated 
point  of  view,  rises  to  the  r.  The  district  between  the  Aubonne 
and  the  Promenthousef  which  the  line  crosses  beyond  stat.  Oland^ 
is  termed  La  COtef  and  is  noted  for  its  white  wine,  one  of  the 
best  in  Switzerland. 

Near  Hyon  the  line  skirts  Prangins  with  its  chateau  (p.  189), 
and  again  approaches  the  lake.  To  the  r.  rises  the  DdU  (5505'; 
p.  190).  SUtions  Celigny,  Coppet,  and  Versoix  (p.  189).  Xhe 
narrowest  part  of  the  lake  is  at  stat.  Genikod'Bellevue  (comp. 
p.  188).  Chambisy,  the  last  station  before  Geneva,  is  only  1^2  M. 
from  the  French  frontier.  On  the  opposite  bank  the  wooded 
hills  and  picturesque  villas  in  the  environs  of  Geneva  become 
visible,  and  above  them,  in  clear  weather,  Mont  Blanc  and  the 
Savoy  range.  The  station  at  Geneva  occupies  a  lofty  position 
on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhone,  at  the  end  of  the  new  Rue  du 
Montblanc,  which  leads  direct  to  the  lake. 


ORBE.  45.  Route,     175 

Oenera,  see  p.  177. 

The  traveller  bound  for  Germany  yU  Nevehfttel,  who  is  already  ac- 
quainted with  the  above  route,  may  vary  the  journey  by  proceeding 
from  RolU  (p.  190)  by  Burttgnp  and  Longirod  to  St.  Oeergea  O0<)7'),  where 
the  roads  from  17yon,  Bolle,  and  Anbonne  unite,  situated  9  M.  to  the  K.W., 
at  the  foot  of  the  Om  da  llarehafama.  A  good  road  ajicends  thence  to 
the  (4  M.)  AiiU  de  Marekeinu  (4757'),  and  descends  to  (5  M.)  Le  Bra$aut 
(34120  ('•'Hot^l  de  la  Lande^  ♦Hotel  de  France).  The  a«:ent  from  St. 
Georges  to  the  Col  affords  a  succession  of  magnificent  views  of  the  Lake 
of  Geneva  und  the  Rhone  Valley,  and  the  descent  to  Le  Brassus  com- 
mands the  Lac  de  Joux  and  the  I>ent  de  Vaulion.  The  peculiar  cellular 
and  riven  formation  of  the  rocks  on  this  route  is  worthy  of  notice. 

From  Le  Brassus  a  road  leads  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Lae  de  Jovx  to 
Le  Lieu  and  (9  M.)  Le  Pont  (p.  176;  diligence  between  Le  Brassus  and  Le 
Pont  twice  daily  in  2  hn.  \  one-hone  carr.  10  fr.).  It  is,  however ,  pre- 
ferable to  perform  this  journey  by  water,  from  Le  SenUer^  a  village  at 
the  S.W.  end  of  the  lake,  2  M.  from  Le  Brassus  (in  2  hrs. ,  boat  with 
one  rower  3  fr.).    From  Le  Pont  to  Vallorbe  and  Cossonay,  see  below. 


45.    From  Cossonay  to  Vallorbe.     Lac  de  Joux. 

Dent  de  Vaulion. 

Railwajf  {Ligne  de  Jougne)  from  Cossonay  to  Vallorbe  in  lif«  hr. ; 
fates  3  fr.  50,  2  fr.  45,  1  fr.  -75  c*  —  From  Bomainmotier  by  Vaulion  to 
the  summit  of  the  Dent  de  Vaulion  3  hrs.  \  descent  to  Le  Pont  1  hr.  -y 
from  Le  Pont  to  the  source  of  the  Orbe  and  Vallorbe  l>(-i  hr.  (a  pleasant 
excursion).  Travellers  bound  for  the  lake  of  Geneva  may  proceed  on 
the  secend  day  by  La  Brassus  and  the  Col  de  Marcheiruc  to  Rolle  (p.  190). 
Diligence  between  Le  Pont  and  Le  Brassus  twice  daily  in  2  hrs.  (see 
above). 

CosBonay^  see  p.  174.  The  line  runs  parallel  with  the  Yver- 
don  line  for  a  short  distance,  diverges  to  the  1.  at  VtUars-LtiMery, 
and  leads  by  EeUpefu  to  stat.  La  Barrai  (1647')  (Maiaon  de 
Vilie),  a  handsome  village  with  an  old  chateau.  About  3/4  M. 
to  the  N.  of  the  loftily  situated  Amex-Orhe  (1791^  lies  the 
picturesquely  situated  old  town  of  Orbe  ri483')  (CfuiUame  Tell; 
Maison  de  Ville),  with  1843  inhab.  (76  Rom.  Cath.),  on  the 
Orbe,  which  is  here  crossed  by  two  bridges.  Early  in  the  mid- 
dle ages  Orbe  was  the  capital  of  Little  Burgundy,  to  which 
period  the  two  towers  of  the  chliteau  (view  from  the  terrace) 
and  t  mosaic  pavement  discovered  near  the  town  belong.  The 
first  orthopedic  establishment  in  Europe  was  founded  here  by 
Venel  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century.  —  Post-omnibus  to 
Stat.  Chavomay  (p.  174)  six  times  daily  in  Y2  ^'• 

The  line  then  leads  in  long  windings  by  Boffient  to  stat. 
Crotf'Romainmotier,  11/2  M.  from  Bomainmotisr  (22969  (Cou- 
ronnejj  a  very  ancient  place,  in  the  half-ruined  abbey  church  of 
which  (founded  in  753)  the  nuptials  of  Margaret  of  Austria  and 
Philibert,  Duke  of  Savoy,  were  celebrated  in  1501.  She  had 
already  been  affianced  to  Louis,  Dauphin  of  France,  and  to 
the  Infanta  of  Spain,  to  which  circumstance  she  Jestingly  alludes 
in  an  epitaph  she  composed  on  herself  during  a  stormy  passage  to 


176     Route  46.         DENT  DE  VAULION. 

Spain,   'Ct  git  Margot  la  gente  damoiaelle  qua  deux  maris  et  ae 
mourut  puceUe%  etc. 

From  Romainmolier  to  Le  Pont  (T'fa  M.)-  The  road  leads  by 
(4>f2  M.)  Vaulion^  from  which  the  Dent  de  Vaulion  (see  below)  is  ascended 
without  difficulty  in  lij<^  hr.    Le  Pont  (see  below)  is  3  M.  farther. 

Beyond  stat.  Croy  the  line  skirts  wooded  hills,  commanding 
picturesque  views  of  the  deep  valle*'  of  the  Orbe  to  the  r.,  high 
on  the  1.  bank  of  which  lie  the  villages  of  LigneroUea  and  Btd- 
laiguea.  Near  Vallorbe  the  line  crosses  the  Orbe  above  the  in- 
flux of  the  Jougnenaz.  Stat.  Vallorbe  (2520^  (Maison  de  Ville), 
a  considerable  watch-making  place  at  the  base  of  the  Mont  d^Or^ 
is  at  present  the  terminus  of  the  line,  which  is  being  extended 
to   Jougne  and  Pontarlier  (p.  171^. 

The  road  from  Vallorbe  to  (472  M.)  Le  Pont  ascends  the  W. 
slope  of  the  Dent  de  Vaulion  to  the  (3  M.)  top  of  the  pass 
(3344'),  from  which  the  summit  of  the  Dent  may  be  reached 
after  a  somewhat  steep  ascent  of  1  hr.  through  woods  and  pas- 
tures. From  this  road,  about  1  M.  from  Vallorbe,  a  path  to  the 
r.  leads  in  1/4  ^r*  *o  t^®  so-called  Source  of  the  Orbe  (2569'), 
which  issues  from  the  rocks  in  considerable  volume,  and  is  doubt- 
less the  subterranean  discharge  of  the  Lac  de  Joux  (see  below). 
From  the  top  of  the  pass  the  road  then  descends  to  (IV2  M!.^ 
Le  Pont  (*Inn)j  a  small  village  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Lac  de  Jouz 
(3310'),  which  is  6  M.  long,  V/2  M.  wide,  and  is  separated 
from  the  little  Lac  Brenet  by  an  embankment  with  a  bridge, 
from  which  the  village  takes  its  name.  On  the  N.  side  of  the 
Lac  Brenet  are  a  number  of  apertures  (entonnoira)  in  the  rocks, 
which  serve  to  drain  the  lake,  the  waters  of  which,  after  a  sub- 
terranean course  of  472  M.,  forin  the  sources  of  the  Orbe  (see 
above),  750'  lower. 

Le  Pont  lies  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  ""Bent  de  Vaulion  (4875'), 
the  W.  side  of  which  presents  a  barren  and  rugged  precipice, 
1600'  high,  while  the  E.  side  is  a  gentle,  grassy  slope.  The 
summit  is  reached  in  i^L  hr.  from  Le  Pont,  and  in  I72  br.  from 
Vaulion  (guide  desirable j.  The  view  embraces  the  Lac  de  Joux, 
the  Lac  des  Rousses,  the  Noirmont,  and  the  Dole;  to  the  S.E.  a 
considerable  part  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  and  beyond  it  Mont 
Blanc  and  the  Alps  of  the  Valais;   and  the  Bernese  Oberland. 

On  the  £.  bank  of  the  Lac  de  Joux,  about  1  M.  to  the  S. 
of  Le  Pont,  lies  VAbbaye  (Inn),  with  an  old  church  and  a  sup- 
pressed Premonstratensian  monastery.  The  Jkfont  Tcndrc  (5512'), 
a  line  point  of  view,  may  be  ascended  thence  in  2  hrs. 

From  Le  Pont  to  Le  Brassua  and  over  the  Col  de  MarcheiruZy 
see  p.  175 ;  to  Lea  Rouaseaj  see  p.  190. 


177 


46.    Geneva. 

Fr.   Geneve^  Ger.   Oenf^  Ital.   Oinevra. 

Hotels.  On  the  Left  Bank:  *HdTEL  db  la  H&tbofole  (PI.  b),  a  large 
house,  belonging  to  a  company ',  200  apartments  in  3  storeys ;  R.  facing  the 
lake  4,  L.  1,  B.  lij^,  D.  at  1,  5,  and  7.30  o  clock  4,  A.  1,  Pension  8  fr. ; 
*Ecu  DE  Geneve  (PL  c.),  of  the  first  class,  patronised  by  Americans; 
CouBONNE  (PI.  d),  E.  2i[2— 3  fr.,  L.  1,  B.  1»J2,  teble  d'hote  excl.  W.  at  1 
o'cl.  3,  at  5  and  7  o'cl.  4,  A.  1  fr.  ^  these  three  large  establishments  com- 
mand a  view  of  the  lake.  —  *H6tel  dx  Pabis  (PL  n),  opposite  the  Pont 
dtt  Hont  Blanc;  *  Hotel  du  Lac,  new,  at  the  corner  of  the  Place 
Longemalle;  *Hotel  (jtabni  de  la  Posts,  Place  Bel- Air,  R.  3",  L.  ijs,  B. 
li|4,  A.  1J2  fr. ;  Hotel  Helvetia,  also  a  restaurant.  Lion  d'Ob  (PL  i), 
Gkand   Aigle  (PL  k),  both  in  the  Rue  du  Rhdne ;  Balance  (PL  g). 

The  hotels  on  the  Right  Bank  of  the  Rhone  (those  on  the  Quays  com- 
mand a  view  of  the  Alps)  are  sheltered  in  winter  from  the  'Bise"  (N.  wind). 
*  Hotel  deb  Bebques  (PL  a),  opposite  Rousseau's  island;  *Hutel  de 
BussiE,  elegantly  fitted  up,  in  the  building  which  was  formerly  the  Palais 
Fazy,  Quai  du  Montbianc,  R.  3,  B.  IIJ2,  L.  and  A.  I'ls  fr. ;  "^Hotel  dk 
LA  Paix  (PL  gg),  on  the  Quai  du  Montblsnc ,  and  near  it  *H6tbl  d'Angle- 
tebbe  et  Beau  Rivags  ,  on  the  Quai  de  Paquis,  both  new  and  of  the  first 
class.  *ScHWxiZEBHOF  (PL  e),  near  the  station;  ^Hotel  Victobia  (PL  m), 
opposite  the  English  Church,  R.  2—4  fr. ,  B.  i^jz,  A.  1>J2  fr. ;  *  Hotel  de 
GenAve,  Rue  du  Montbianc  13,  not  far  from  the  station,  R.  2,  B.  1>|4,  A. 
and  L.  1  fr. 

Pennons  ▲limeBtairett  very  numerous  owing  to  the  great  influx  of 
strangers;  85  to  300  fr.  per  month.  For  families  and  single  persons:  Mme. 
Buscarlet  (2(X)  to  250  fr.),  Quai  du  Mont  Blanc  9 ;  Bovet^  Quai  des  Paquis 
(200  fr.) ;  Wallner,  Quai  des  Eaux-Vives  88 ;  Picaud  (85  to  200  fr.),  Quai  des 
Eaux-Vives ;  Mad.  £.  Magnenat  (150  fr.),  Tranchees  de  Plainpalais  3 ;  Baud 
(180  fr.) ,  Chemin  Pr^  TEv^que ;  Flaegel^  Rue  Pierre  Fatio ;  Ruegg ,  Rue 
du  Rhone  92;  Fromont- Jackson^  Rue  Pradier  3;  Veuve  Piccard  (150  fr.). 
Place  de  la  M^tropole  2;  Vei\ve  Flouck,  Rue  du  Rh6ne  9;  Soeurs  Crochat 
(80—100  fr.),  Plainpalais,  Chemin  Dancet  184 ;  Bomangeot,  Place  du  Port  2 ; 
Desargens^  near  the  Academy ;  Bex^  Plateau  des  Tranchees.  —  For  students 
chiefly:  Mme.  Rotusy  (85  to  1(X)  fr.).  Rue  du  Rhone  29 ;  Decosterd.,  Rue  des 
Allemands  8;  Mayor,  Rue  Centrale  2;  Sordet  (90—120  fr.),  Route  de 
Carouge,  etc.  —  Farther  information  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels  and 
booksellers'  shops. 

Cafes.  On  the  Left  Bank:  ^Cafi  du  Nord  (PL  o),  de  la  Couronne  (PL 
p),  and  de  Oeneve,  all  on  the  Grand  Quai ;  *  du  Musie,  Corraterie,  opposite 
the  Musde  Rath,  with  garden;  du  Thidtre  (PL  r),  with  garden;  Cktret;  du 
Globe;  cafe  in  the  Jardin  Anglais.  —  On  the  Right  Bank:  Cafi  de  la  Fotle 
(PL  t),  near  the  English  Church.  —  Beer.  Bavarian  at  Ackermann"*,  Rue 
du  Rhdne  92;  Stadtmann,  Rue  du  Rhone;  JutZi,  Chemin  des  Eaux-Vives  6 ; 
JSberbach,  Rue  de  Ohantepoidet  and  Rue  de  I'Entrepot  1 ;  Macon  and  Lyons 
beer  may  be  procured  at  most  of  the  cafes,  Geneva  beer  at  the  breweries 
outside  the  gates :  Pdquis  Brewery  (Lausanne  road ,  PL  I.  S) ;  Treiber 
(Route  de  Chene,  PL  C.  7).  —  Restattxants.  Left  Bank:  Ca/^  du  Nord 
(PL  0,  see  above);  Dettinger,  Place  de  la  Fusterie  4;  also  at  the  diflerent 
hotels.  —  Right  Bank :  Railvay  Restaurant. 

Baths.  De  la  Poste,  Rue  du  Stand,  well  fitted  up,  hot,  cold,  shower, 
vapour  baths,  etc. ;  Canel,  Rue  de  I'Hotel  de  Ville  11,  etc.  —  Lake  BatltSy 
swimming-school,  and  separate  baths,  at  the  new  quay  on  the  1.  bank, 
outside  the  harbour,  on  the  Vesenaz  road  (p.  185),  and  also  by  the  pier  on 
the  opposite  bank.  —  Rhone  Baths  C  Bains  Jlottants^)^  Quai  pont  de  Bel- 
Air,  for  gentlemen  and  ladies,  two  small  swimming-basins  ('■piscines'' ).^  40  c. 
per  bath  with  towel ;  separate  baths  60  c.  —  Large  public  bath  below  the 
Pont  de  la  Coulouvreniere.  —  Baths  in  the  Arve,  very  cold,  *\i  M.  from  the 
Place  Neuve :  Oranthiiraut  and  JSasen^  both  on  the  Chemin  de  TArve, 
424  and  473. 

B/EPEKXB,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  12 


178     RouU  46.  GENEVA.  VoUuriers, 

Bailway  Station  for  Switzerland  and  France  (Lyons,  Chamb^ry,  etc.)? 
at  the  upper  ^nd  of  the  Rue  du  Montblanc,  r.  bank. 

Pott  and  Toloffraph  OfAcea,  Quai  de  la  Coulouvreniere  (PI.  21).  Branch 
Offices  opposite  the  railway  station,  and  Bue  Pierre  Fatio  1,  all  open  from 
7  a.m.  to  8  p.  ni. 

Diligences  to  Ghamouny  daily  at  7,  7i|2,  and  8  a.m.^  starting  from  the 
Grand  Quai,  the  Place  du  Kh6ne,  and  the  Lion  d'Or  (p.  177).  To  Annecy 
(p.  211)  once  daily,  at  3  p.  m. ,  from  the  Grand  Quai;  to  Bennaens  and 
Sixt  (p.  220)  daily  at  11  a.m.  from  the  Rue  de  Rive  13. 

Omnibasea  from  every  hotel  to  the  station,  and  also  from  the  iK)6t- 
office ,  fare  30  e.  %  each  article  of  luggage  15  c. ;  to  Femex  (every  hour) 
50  c,  Place  Cornavin  \  Momex  (in  summer)  at  8.  30  and  11.  30  a.m.  and 
6.  30  p.m.  from  the  Rue  de  la  Croix  d'Or  18,  fare  1  fr.  30  c.  To  the 
Voirons  or  Bon$  (p.  187)  in  summer  Thursd.  and  Sund.  at  5  a.m.,  Sat. 
at  4  p.m.,  from  Rue  Winkelried  4,  near  the  Hotel  des  Bergues. 

Tramway  to  Carouge  10  c,  from  the  Place  Neuve,  near  the  theatre  \ 
to  Chfae  20  c,  from  the  Cours  de  Rive. 

yoituriera.  Kdlliker  ^aux  Paquis;  Regard,  on  the  Terrassi^re;  Soeiiti 
Oenevoise  (Achard  A  Co.)^  Rue  des  Paquis  3o.  One-horse  carr.  15,  two- 
horse  30  f^.  per  day,  everything  included.  —  Fiacre  per  hour  2if2,  per 
drive  within  the  town  1>|2  fr. 

Steamboats ,  Swiu  Bank  (N.)  p.  187 ;  Savov  Bank  (S.)  p.  204.  Piers  of 
both  at  the  Jardin  Anglais  (p.  180).  The  express-steamer  B<mivard  (p. 
187)  starts  from  the  Quai  du  Himtblanc,  opposite  the  Hdtel  de  Russie. 

Boats  for  excursions  on  the  lake  (2— o  fr.  per  hour  with,  80  c.  with- 
out boatman),  near  the  Jardin  Anglais,  the  Quai  du  Hontblanc,  and  the 
two  jetties  near  the  lighthouses.  The  English  '  canott  ^  are  steadier  than 
the  *  voilliers  **  or  sailing-boats.  The  smaller  boats  used  within  the  harbour 
are  termed  ^naeelUi.''  Rowers  are  prohibited  to  approach  the  Pont  des 
Bergues  on  account  of  the  dangerous  rapidity  of  the  stream. 

Shops.  The  most  tempting  are  those  on  the  Grand-Quai,  the  Rue  du 
Rhdne,  the  Rue  de  la  Corraterie  (I.  bank),  the  Quai  des  Bergues,  and  the 
Rue  du  Montblanc  (r.  bank).  Geneva  is  celebrated  for  its  watches  and 
jewellery;  the  latter  is  chiefly  exported  to  Italy  and  the  Levant.  In 
(Geneva  100,000  watches  are  manufactured  annually.  Among  the  watch- 
makers of  reputa  may  be  mentioned  Veuve  Vadieron  and  Comp.,  Rue  Tour 
de  rile  3}  Pateky  Philippe  and  Gomp.^  Grand-Quai  22*,  Oolap-Lereiche,  Quai 
des  Bergues  31  and  Place  du  Port  1  (on  the  Grand-Quai) ;  8.  Mereier,  Place 
du  Rhdne  42;  Ekegren^  Rue  du  Rhdne  88,  au  troisi^me.  —  Engravers: 
Af.  L.  Bovy,  chiefly  for  medals.  Rue  Rousseau  18;  Bovet  et  Fol,  Petite 
Fusterie  1.  Mountain-shoes :  MUller^  Place  du  Molard.  Trunks  and  other 
*  travelling  requisites:  Isenring^  Place  du  Lac  2.  Carved  wood,  musical 
boxed,  etc. :  Mavehain^  next  door  to  the  M^tropole. 

Booksellors.  Oeorg^  Rue  de  la  Corraterie  10;  Monroe  ^  Place  des 
Bergues  1 ;  Ment^  Place  du  Molard  2. 

Newspapors,  periodicals,  etc.  in  the  SocUU  de  Lecture^  Grand  Rue  11 ; 
cards  of  admission  procured  from  members. 

ExhiUtioB  of  Art  (permanent)  of  the  BoeiiU  des  Amis  des  Beavx-Aris^ 
in  the  Ath^n^e.    Admission  1  fr. 

fr.Oiyan  Oonoort  at  the  Cathedral  (p.  181)  on  Mond.,  Wed.,  and  Sat. ; 
tickets  (1  fr.  each)  obtainable  firom  the  concierge  and  at  the  hotels. 

Fhysidaas.  Dr.  Metea^^  Quai  du  Montblanc  3;  Dr.  L.  AppiOy  Rue 
des  Chanoines  5 ;  Dr.  Odier^  Corraterie  8.  —  Ohomists.  Oeo.  Baker^  Place 
des  Bergues  3 ;  JSTaAn,  Place  Longemalle ;  C.  Kohler^  Rue  du  Montblanc ; 
Habel^  Place  du  Rhdne,  etc. 

Bankers.  L9mi^ard  Odier  and  Comp.^  Petite  Corraterie;  Kohler  and 
Camp.,  Rue  de  la  Corraterie  10. 

BsffUsh  Ghurdi  on  the  r.  bank,  near  the  Hdtel  des  Bergues  (PI.  a). 

G«neya  (12430,  a  town  with  47,581  inhab.  (20,695  Rom. 
Oath.),  the  capital  of  one  of  the  smallest  cantons,  is  the  richest 
and  most  populous  in   Switzerland.     It  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  the 


E(m$$eau'B  Island.  QBNEYA.  46,  RouU.      179 

lake,  at  the  point  where  the  blae  waters  of  the  Rhone  emerge 
from  it  with  the  swiftness  of  an  arrow,  and  a  little  above  the 
confluence  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Arve  (p.  212).  The  Rhone 
surrounds  the  little  QuarUer  de  VIU,  and  divides  the  town  into 
two  parts:  on  the  1.  bank  lies  the  principal  part  of  the  town, 
the  Geneva  of  history,  the  seat  of  government  and  centre  of 
traffic;  on  the  r.  bank  is  the  smaU  Quartier  8L  Oervais,  for- 
merly a  mere  suburb  chiefly  inhabited  by  the  poorer  classes, 
but  considerably  improved  since  the  opening  of  the  railway. 
Since  the  removal  of  the  old  fortifications,  part  of  which  only 
have  been  preserved  on  the  S.E.  side,  and  are  used  as  pro- 
menades, ihe  town  has  extended  rapidly,  especially  on  the  r. 
bank,  where  great  improvements  have  been  effected  since  the 
construction  of  the  railway. 

Seen  from  the  lake,  Geneva  presents  a  very  imposing  appear- 
ance, the  banks  of  the  Rhone  being  flanked  with  broad  quays 
and  substantial  buildings,  but  the  interior  of  the  old  town  by 
no  means  produces  a  corresponding  effect,  the  streets,  with  a 
.few  exceptions,  being  narrow,  steep,  and  crooked.  La  Corraterie, 
the  ancient  fosse,  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  the  townf ,  the 
Rues  Reuses  J  a  series  of  streets  which  intersect  the  town  from 
£.  to  W.  (^Rue  des  AUemandSy  du  Marehi^  etc.),  and  the  Rue 
du  Rh6ne  are  the  only  broad  streets  in  this  part  of  the  town. 

The  two  halves  of  the  city  separated  by  the  Rhone  are  con- 
nected by  means  of  six  bridges.  The  highest  of  these,  the  hand- 
some *Fo]it  da  XoBt  Blanc,  completed  in  1862,  leads  from  the 
Rue  du  Mont  RUme,  a  broad  street  descending  from  the  railway- 
station,  to  the  Jardin  Anglais  (see  below),  and  with  the  latter 
forms  the  central  point  of  attraction  to  visitors  in  summer.  Be- 
tween the  Pont  du  Mont  Blanc  and  the  Pont  des  Betgues  is  Boui- 
Mau'i  Island,  united  to  the  latter  by  a  small  chain  bridge,  and 
planted  with  trees  (small  cafi^).  In  the  centre  stands  the  bronze 
statue  of  the  *wild  self-torturing  sophist'  himself,  executed  by 
Fradier  in  1834. 

Handsome  quays  with  numerous  shops  extend  along  both 
banks  of  the  river  near  these  bridges,  the  principal  being  the 
Quai  des  Betgues  on  the  r.,  and  the  Qtand  Quai  on  the  1.  bank. 
The   duBi  du  Mont  Blanc,  extending  from  the  Pont  du  Mont 


t  On  the  night  of  lUh  Dec,  i6u2,  the  Savoyards  attempted  to  obtain 
poMeMion  of  Geneva,  and  would  have  scaled  the  wall  of  the  Corraterie 
if  the  citizens  had  not  promptly  repulsed  them.  A  Fountain  (PI.  25)  in 
granite  (designed  by  Leeb  of  Munich),  erected  in  1857  at  the  W.  end  of 
the  Rut  des  Allemands,  commemorates  this  event.  Beneath  are  two 
reliefs  representing  the  defeat  of  the  assailants,  and  Thdod.  de  Beze 
returning  thanks  to  Godi  above,  a  group  of  soldiers  scaling  the  walls, 
surmounted  by  a  statue  (emblematical  of  the  town  of  Geneva),  arm^d  with 
lance  and  buckler. 

12* 


180     RouU  46.  GENEVA.  Jardin  Anglaia, 

Blaiic  towards  the  N.E.,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  lake,  affords  a 
beautiful  survey  of  the  *Mont  Blanc  group,  which  is  visible 
almost  in  its  entire  extent,  and  presents  a  strikingly  majestic 
appearance  on  clear  evenings.  An  idea  of  the  relatire  heights  of 
the  different  peaks  is  obtained  from  this  point  of  view  much 
better  than  at  Chamouny  itself.  Thus  Mont  Blanc  itself  is 
15,781'  in  height,  whilst  the  Aiguilles  du  Midi  on  the  1.  are 
12,608'  only.  Farther  to  the  1.  are  the  Grandes  Jorasses  and 
the  Dent  du  G^ant;  in  front  of  the  Mont  Blanc  group  are  the 
Aiguilles  Rouges;  then,  more  in  the  foreground,  the  M6le,  an 
isolated  pyramid  rising  from  the  plain ;  near  it  the  snowy  summit 
of  the  Aiguille  d'Argenti^re ;  then  the  broad  Buet ;  to  the  extreme 
1.  the  long  crest  of  the  Yoirons,  which  terminate  the  panorama  on 
the  1.,  while  the  opposite  "extremity  is  formed  by  the  Great  and 
Little  Sal^ve.  To  the  r.,  in  the  Rue  du  Mont  Blanc,  is  the 
English  Church,  a  small  and  tastefully-built  Gothic  structure. 

The  Quai  des  Pdquia,  planted  with  trees,  forms  the  continua- 
tion of  the  Quai  du  Mont  Blanc,  and  extends  to  the  JetSCy  or 
pier,  which  is  also  adorned  with  trees  and  provided  with  seats. 
The  latter  affords  another  fine  view  of  the  Alps  and  of  the  city 
itself.  From  the  pier  to  the  Villa  Plantamour  extends  the  new 
Quai  du  Leman. 

Near  the  Pont  de  la  Machine,  the  next  bridge  below  the  is- 
land, is  a  large  building  containing  a  Hydraulie  Machine  which 
supplies  the  public  fountains  and  many  dwelling  houses  with 
river  water.  At  the  end  of  the  island  are  the  Slaughterhouses 
(Boucheries,  PI.  4),  at  the  entrance  to  which  are  five  eagles  in 
a  cage,  the  heraldic  emblems  of  the  canton. 

On  the  S.  bank  of  the  lake  (1.  bank  of  the  Rhone),  to  the  1. 
as  the  traveller  approaches  from  the  Pont  du  Montblanc,  rises  the 
national  Monument,  a  bronze  group  of  Helvetia  and  Geneva 
on  a  lofty  pedestal,  by  Vorer,  commemorating  the  union  of  Geneva 
with  the  Confederation  in  1814.  —  Farther  up  the  lake  are  the 
pleasant  grounds  of  the  Jardin  Anglais,  with  a  neat  foun- 
tain in  the  centre.  To  the  1.  of  the  entrance  is  a  column  with 
a  barometer,  thermometer,  and  hydrometer.  The  Kiosque,  opposite 
the  H6tel  de  la  M^tropole ,  contains  an  interesting  ^Relief  of 
Mont  Blanc  (Sund.  and  Thursd.  11 — 3  gratis;  at  other  times 
1/2  fr.),  carved  in  lime-wood,  26'  in  length,  affording  a  good  ge- 
neral idea  of  the  relative  heights  of  the  'monarch  of  mountains' 
and  his  vassals. 

In  the  neighbourhood,  above  the  surface  of  the  lake,  appear 
two  granite  blocks  termed  the  Fierres  dn  Niton,  on  which,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  the  Romans  once  offered  sacrifices  to  Nep- 
tune. They  are  doubtless  erratic  blocks,  similar  to  those  on  the 
Salfeve  and  other  places  in  the  vicinity  (see  Introd.  XIV). 

If  the  traveller  follow  the  side-street  which  leads  away  from 


Cathedral.  GENET  A.  46.  Route.      181 

the  Grand  Quai  -opposite  the  above-mentioned  Kiosque,  and 
ascend  a  few  paces ,  he  will  reach  the  well  shaded  Promenades 
de  8t.  Antoine,  laid  out  on  part  of  the  old  ramparts,  and  afford- 
ing a  beautiful  view  of  the  lake.  On  an  eminence  to  the  1. 
(S.E.),  at  some  distance  from  the  town,  rises  the  new  BaMiaa 
Chnrdiy  with  its  glittering  gilded  domes,  erected  by  contribu- 
tions from  the  Imperial  and  other  Russian  families.  The  interior 
is  worthy  of  inspection. 

The  *Cath6dna  (St.  Pierre,  PI.  5)  was  completed  in  1024  by 
the  Emperor  Conrad  II.  in  the  purest  Romanesque  style,  but 
was  much  altered  in  the  12th  and  Idth  centuries,  and  finally 
disfigured  in  the  18th  by  the  addition  of  a  Corinthian  portiro. 
The  concierge  lives  at  the  back  of  the  church;  or  he  may  be 
found  in  the  ^loge  du  concierge'  adjoining  the  church  (fee  ^2  ^f-)* 

lBt«rior.  Stained-gU88  windows  and  carved  stalls  of  the  15th  cent.  — 
Monument  of  Duke  Henri  de  Rohan  (leader  of  the  Protestants  under  Louis 
XIII.),  who  fell  at  Rheinfelden  (p.  18)  in  1638,  of  his  wife  Marg.  de  Sully, 
and  his  son  Taneride;  the  black  marble  sarcophagus  rests  on  two  lions; 
the  statue  of  the  duke  in  plaster  is  in  a  sitting  posture ;  the  monument  has 
been  restored  since  its  destruction  in  1798.  Beneath  a  black  marble 
tombstone  in  the  nave  lies  Jean  de  Brognler  (d.  1426),  president  of  the 
Council  of  Constance.  A  black  stone  in  the  S.  aisle  is  sacred  to  the 
memory  of  Agr^e  d^AttMgni  (d.  1690),  the  confidant  of  Henry  IV.  of  France, 
erected  to  him  by  the  Republic  of  Geneva,  where  he  died  in  exile,  in 
gratitude  for  services  rendered.  The  pulpit  contains  a  chair  once  used  by 
Calvin.    Admirable  Organ  (concerts,  see  p.  178). 

No.  11  Rue  des  Chanoines,  to  the  W.  of  the  Cathedral,  is 
the  House  of  Calvin  (PI.  16),  occupied  by  him  from  1543  until 
his  death  in  15&i.  He  was  interred  in  the  now  disused  ceme- 
tery of  Plain»Palai8 ,  but  the  spot  is  unknown ,  as  the  great  re- 
former expressly  forbade  that  any  monument  should  be  erected 
over  his  remains. 

In  the  neighbourhood.  Grand'  Rue  No.  40,  is  the  house  where 
Jean  Jacques  Rousseau  was  bom  (1712,  d.  1778). 

The  Millie  Fol  (PI.  19),  Grand'  Rue  11,  founded  by  M. 
W.  Foly  contains  in  the  court  to  the  r.  a  collection  of  Greek 
and  Etruscan  antiquities,  the  yield  of  recent  excavations,  and 
of  medisval  and  Renaissance  curiosities.  Admission  by  payment 
of  a  fee.  On  the  first  and  second  floor  is  the  Sociite  de  Lecture 
(p.  178). 

The  H6tel  de  Ville  (PI.  13),  a  massive  building  in  the  Flo- 
rentine style,  is  only  remarkable  for  the  Inclined  planes  in  the 
interior,  substituted  for  staircases,  by  which  arrangement  the 
councillors  in  ancient  times  were  enabled  to  ride,  or  be 
conveyed  in  litters,  to  or  from  the  council-chambers.  The  edifice, 
which  has  been  recently  restored,  now  contains  the  cantonal  and 
municipal  offices. 

Opposite  the  H6tel  de  Ville  is  the  Arsenal  (PI.  1),  contain- 
ing ancient  and  modern  arms,  the  ladders  used  at  the  'escalade' 
(p.    179)  etc.  (adm.  gratis  on  Thursd.,  11 — 3). 


182     Route  46.  GENEVA.  Muiie  Rath. 

In  the  vicinity,  at  No.  12  Rue  de  l'H6tel  de  Ville,  is 
M.  ReviUod's  Collection  of  pictures  and  antiquities  (containing  a 
^Raphael,  Madonna  with  the  finch),  which  merits  a  visit  (open 
on  week-days). 

Adjacent  to  the  H6tel  de  Yille  a  gateway  leads  to  the  shady 
promenade  of  La  TreiUet  which  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
SaUve.  Adjoining  this  terrace  is  the  Botanie  Garden,  laid 
out  in  1816  by  the  celebrated  De  Candolle.  It  is  entered  from  the 
Bastion  Bourgeois^  and  also  serves  as  a  promenade.  The  facade 
of  the  greenhouse  is  adorned  with  marble  busts  of  celebrated 
Genevese:  Chambrey,  Trembley,  Oh.  Bonnet,  de  Saussure,  Sene- 
bier,  and  Rousseau;  opposite  these  is  a- bronze  bust  of  De  Can- 
dolle.    In  the  grounds  is  a  statue  of  David  by  Chaponnilre. 

The  Athinie,  situated  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Botanical  Garden, 
is  a  handsome  Renaissance  edifice,  the  facade  of  which  is  adorned 
with  busts  of  six  celebrated  citizens  of  Geneva.  It  was  erected 
by  the  wife  of  the  'philhellenist'  Eynard,  and  presented  to  the 
Socitfttf  des  Beaux-Arts.  It  contains  lecture-rooms,  a  library  of 
works  on  the  history  of  art,  and  an  exhibition  of  works  of  art  (see 
p.  178). 

The  Theatre  (PI.  24),  in  the  Place  Neuve,  to  the  N.W., 
erected  in  1782,  is  generally  closed  in  summer.  A  larger  one  is 
about  to  be  built.  Theatrical  performances  were  long  forbidden 
at  Geneva  by  the  austere  regulations  of  Calvin.  When  Voltaire 
caused  his  pieces  to  be  performed  at  Fernex  (p.  186),  almost 
in  sight  of  the  Genevese,  Rousseau  thus  remonstrated  with  his 
great  contemporary:  'Je  ne  vous  aime  pas:  vous  avez  corrompu 
ma  r^publique  en  lui  donnant  des  spectacles\ 

The  *]Ciuie  Bath  (PI.  18),  opposite  the  theatre,  containing 
a  collection  of  pictures,  casts,  etc.,  was  founded  by  the  Russian 
general  Rath,  a  native  of  Geneva,  and  presented  to  the  city  by 
his  sisters.  It  has  since  been  greatly  extended.  Admission  in 
summer  daily,  11 — 3  gratis;  at  other  times,  fee  V2  ^'f* 

Vestibule  :  on  the  1.  casts  of  modem  sculptures,  chiefly  by  Pradier ; 
also  a  picture  by  Odier^  representing  Charles  the  Bold  entering  a  church 
on  horseback;  to  the  r.  the  gates  of  Uie  Baptistery  of  Florence  by  Ghiberti, 
the  Graces  by  Canova^  Plato  by  Pradier  (original).  Hall  on  the  r. :  casta 
from  celebrated  antiques :  the  Laocoon,  the  Athlete,  the  Venus  de  Medicis, 
the  Gladiator,  the  Listening  Slave,  the  Thorn  -  extractor,  Torso  from  the 
Vatican ,  the  Apollo  Belvedere ,  the  Diana  of  Versailles ,  etc.  —  Pictcrs 
Hall  I.  (E.  side):  71.  Lvgardon^  Bonivard's  release;  51.  Hornung^  Boni- 
vard  in  prison  (p.  197) ;  72.  Lugardoiiy  Arnold  von  Melchthal ;  *19.  Calame^ 
Forest  at  the  Handeck ;  162.  Favai ,  Portrait  of  General  Dufour ;  *29. 
Diday ,  Cascade  of  the  Sallenche  (Piase-Vache) ;  *28.  Diday ,  Forest  in  a 
storm ;  (X.)  60.  Homung ,  Catherine  de  Medicis  regarding  the  head  of  Ad- 
miral Coligny ;  65.  Liotard ,  Portrait  of  himself,  in  chalky  ?  67.  Liotard^ 
Maria  Theresa,  in  chalks ;  (W.)  49.  JTomt/ngr,  Death  of  Calvin ;  121.  J.  TUpffer^ 
Winter  landscape ;  *55.  Humbert^  Cattle  drinking ;  134.  Wovvertnany  Crossing 
a  river;  48.  Van  der  Heist,  Portrait;  117.  D.  Teniers ^  Smoker.  In  the 
centre  of  the  hall  a  bust  of  General  Rath.  —  Hall  II.  (E.)  100,  101. 
Landscapes  by   Salvator  Jtota;  130.  portrait  of  the  Prigceas  Palatine  El|- 


* 

Academy-Building.  GENEVA.  46.  Route.      183 

zabeth  Charlotte,  Duchess  of  Orleans  (d.  1722),  by  Rigaud\  21.  CkxravaggiOj 
Quartette. 

Between  the  Mus^e  Rath  and  the  Theatre  lies  the  Place 
Neuve,  from  which  a  tramway  (p.  178)  runs  through  the  new  suburb 
PUiin-Palais  to  Carouge  (in  20  min.).  On  the  S.W.  side  is  the 
Conserratoire  de  Xnsiqne,  behind  which  stands  a  handsome  club- 
house. To  the  S.  of  this  is  the  new  Bitiment  Electoral,  on 
which  is  Inscribed  the  motto  of  Geneva,   ^Post  tenebras  lux\ 

The  new  Academy-Building  (PI.  B,  3),  on  the  bastion  op- 
posite the  Botanical  Garden,  erected  in  1867  —  71  by  the  city 
and  the  canton  at  a  cost  of  IY4  million  fr. ,  consists  of  three 
different  parts  connected  by  two  glass  galleries.  The  central  part, 
containing  the  lecture-rooms,  laboratories,  and  the  collection  of 
antiquities,  coins,  and  medals,  bears  the  Inscription:  *Le  peuple 
de  Gendve  en  consacrant  cet  Edifice  aux  Etudes  sup^rieures  rend 
hommage  aux  blenfalts  de  Tinstruction  garantie  fondamentale  de 
ses  libert^s.  Loi  du  26.  Juin,  1867\  The  right  wing  contains 
the  Library,  the  left  the  Museum  of  Natural  History. 

The  Bibliothique  Publiqve ,  at  present  containing  80,000  vols. ,  founded 
by  Bonivard,  the  prisoner  of  Chillon  (p.  197)  in  1^1,  is  of  spacious  di- 
mensions and  handsomely  fitted  up.  The  first  floor  contains  the  reading- 
room,  which  is  open  on  week-days  from  10  to  4.  A  hall  on  the  ground- 
floor  ,  to  the  r.  of  the  entrance ,  contains  valuable  ancient  and  modern 
portraits  of  princes,  reformers ,  and  Genevcse  and  French  statesmen  and 
scholars,  chiefly  of  the  time  of  the  Reformation  (Turquet  de  Mayeme  by 
Rubens;  Gh.  Bonnet  and  de  Saussure  by  Juhle;  Charles  IX.,  Calvin,  Des- 
cartes, etc.).  This  apartment  also  contains  a  collection  of  MSS. ,  includ- 
ing autographs  of  Calvin  and  Rousseau.  The  most  valuable  MSS.  are  ex- 
posed to  view  in  glass  cases :  homilies  of  St.  Augustine  on  papyrus  (6th 
cent.)  \  wax-tablets  of  Philip  le  Bel ;  many  with  miniatures,  some  of  which 
forVned  part  of  the  booty  taken  from  Charles  the  Bold  at  Grandson  (p.  173). 
On  an  old  reading-desk  is  a  French  Bible ,  richly  bound  in  red  morocco, 
and  bearing  the  arms  of  France  and  19'avarre,  which  was  destined  by  the 
Council  of  Geneva  as  a  gift  to  Henry  IV. ,  but  never  presented  owing  to 
his  abjuration  of  Protestantism.  The  concierge  expects  a  fee  for  showing 
this  apartment. 

The  natural  History  Museum^  admirably  arranged  by  the  late  F.  J. 
Pictet,  contains  the  famous  collection  of  conchylia  of  B.  Delessert  (formerly 
Duke  M ass^na),  which  has  been  described  by  Lamark  \  Pictet's  collection 
of  fossils  \  De  8aus8ure''s  geological  collection ,  described  in  his  ^Voyages 
dans  les  Alpes"*;  Helly's  collection  of  about  35,(XX)  coleoptera*,  a  valuable 
rock  crystal  from  the  Tiefengletscher  (p.  138),  presented  bv  M.  Reviliod, 
etc.  —  Admission  to  the  Museum  on  Thursd.  and  Sund.  11 — 3  gratis^  at 
other  times  on  application  to  the  concierge  (fee). 

Leaving  the  Place  Neuve,  and  passing  the  Synagogue  (PI.  D, 

2),    an   edifice  In   the  Moorish   style  (interior  Tery  plain),  the 

traveller   may    now  cross   the   Pont    de    la    Coulouvrenihre  ^    the 

lowest  of  the  bridges,  and  passing  the  simple,  but  handsome  Rom. 

Cath.  church  of  Notre  Dame,  proceed  direct  to  the  railway-station. 

History.  The  sights  of  Geneva  may  easily  be  inspected  in  a  day.  The 
town  possesses  few  monuments,  and  is  chiefly  interesting  on  account  of  its 
importance  in  the  history  of  intellectual  and  social  progress.  The  prin- 
ciples which  since  the  16th  cent,  have  shaken  Europe  to  its  foundation, 
have  emanated  chiefly  from  Geneva.  Calvin^  who  resided  at  Geneva  from 
]D3^  to  1564,  and  Rousseau,  who  was  bom  at  Geneva  in  1712,  were  tjie 


IS4     Route  46.  GENEVA.     - 

great  advocates ,  one  of  religious,  the  other  of  social  reform  \  but,  tliough 
kindred  in  genius,  these  two  illustrious  men  had  no  other  qualities  in 
common.  The  former,  after  Luther  the  most  eminent  of  the  old  refor- 
mers, directed  his  whole  energy  to  the  propagation  of  the  reformed  re- 
ligion ,  while  the  other  employed  his  transcendant  powers  of  mind  in  dis- 
seminating principles,  generally  considered  to  conduce  neither  to  the  good 
nor  the  happiness  of  mankind.  Geneva  has  &lso  given  birth  to  the  natura- 
lists de  Luc  ^  Bonnet^  and  de  Saussure  ^  the  botanists  de  CandoUe  and 
E.  BoisiieVy  the  political  economist  Say^  the  historian  Sismondiy  the  natural 
philosophers  de  la  Rive ,  J.  Pirtet ,  and  many  other  distinguished  savnnts. 
NeckeVy  the  minister  of  Louis  XVI.,  and  his  daughter,  Madame  de  Siail^  were 
also  natives  of  Geneva.  A  country  so  limited  in-extent  (the  canton  being  only 
15  miles  long  by  as  many  broad)  could  never  have  much  prominence  in  a 
oplitical  point  of  view.  *  When  I  shake  my  loigy  I  powder  the  whole  republic'^ 
was  the  well  known  sarcasm  of  Voltaire.  ^It  is  a  tempest  in  a  glass  of  water"  ^ 
was  the  contemptuous  exclamation  of  the  Emperor  Paul ,  on  hearing  of 
some  commotion  in  the  little  republic. 

The  history  of  this  miniature  state  may  be  thus  briefly  summed  up. 
^^'c  find  it  mentioned  for  the  first  time  by  Csesar:  ^Extremvm  oppidunt 
Allobrogum  est  proximttmque  Helvetiorum  finihiis  Geneva.  Ex  eo  oppido  pons 
ad  Helvetios  pertinet  ,  quern  Caesar  Jubet  rescindi'',  etc.  (de  Bello  Gall.  I. 
6 — 8).  "With  the  Allobrogi,  Geneva  fell  under  Roman  rule;  in  482, 
owing  to  the  decay  of  the  Roman  Empire ,  it  became  subject  to  Burgundy  \ 
in  the  following  century  the  Franks  gained  possession  of  it,  and  retained 
their  footing  until  the  division  of  the  empire.  After  subduing  Burgundy 
(1034),  the  Emperor  Conrad  II.  caused  himself  to  be  proclaimed  king  here 
for  the  second  time,  and  was  crowned  by  the  Archbishop  of  Milan. 

Succeeding  ages  witnessed  a  series  of  struggles  between  the  Bishops 
of  Geneva,  who  aimed  at  the  temporal  power,  the  Counts  of  Geneva,  in 
their  capacity  of  Prefects  of  the  Empire,  and  the  Counts  or  Dukes  of  Savoy, 
who  contrived  that  the  episcopal  throne  should  always  be  occupied  by  a 
member  of  their  own  family.  In  the  midst  of  these  dissensions,  the  citizens 
of  Geneva  concluded  an  alliance  with  Freiburg  (1518)  and  Bern  (1526).  Two 
parties  were  thus  formed  in  the  town,  the  Confederates  (Ger.  Eidgenossen, 
pronounced  by  the  French  'Higuenos',  whence  the  term  ^Hvgvenots'')^  and  the 
MamelukeSy  partisans  of  the  House  of  Savoy. 

Out  of  these  discords,  which  the  treaty  of  St.  Julien  in  1530  only  par- 
tially allayed ,  sprang  the  Reformation ,  to  whichi  Geneva  immediately  at- 
tached itself.  In  1535  the  Bishop  transferred  his' seat  to  Gex.  From  that 
time  the  supremacy  of  the  Romish  Church  ceased  at  Geneva;  the  new 
doctrines  were  vigorously  and  successfully  propagated  by  Farel^  and  the 
Bishop  was  deprived  of  his  power. 

About  this  time  the  theologian  Jean  Calvin  (properly  CatUviny  or  Chati- 
vin)y  who  was  born  at  l^oyon  in  Picardy  in  15C^,  and  had  been  expelled 
from  France  on  account  of  his  tenets ,  sought  refuge  at  Geneva.  He  at- 
tached himself  to  Farel,  and  soon  obtained  so  great  an  influence  in  all  the 
affairs  of  church  and  state,  that  he  may  be  said  to  have  exercised  a  com- 
plete sway  in  Geneva ,  and  he  maintained  his  authority  until  his  death 
(1564).  He  was  indefatigable  in  preaching,  and  his  zeal  against  the  corruptions 
of  the  Romish  Churchwas  unbounded;  his  rhetorical  powers  were  of  the 
highest  order,  and  he  exercised  an  irresistible  influence  over  his  fellow- 
citizens.  Austere  in  his  own  mode  of  life,  he  imposed  a  most  rigorous  code 
upon  others,  and  if  the  Bishop's  sway  had  been  tyrannical,  Calvin's  was 
not  less  so.  But  while  vindicating  the  liberty  of  conscience ,  he  too  fre- 
quently forgot  his  own  principles  and  the  behests  of  the  Gospel  he  advo- 
cated. Castellio ,  one  of  his  earliest  friends  and  fellow-labourers ,  having 
ventured  to  differ  from  him  on  the  doctrine  of  predestination,  was  banished 
by  him  in  1540.  Michael  ServetvSy  a  Spanish  physician  who  had  fl.ed  from 
Vienne  in  Dauphin^  in  consequence  of  having  written  a  treatise  on  the 
doctrine  of  the  Trinity  (de  Trinitatis  erroribus)  y  and  who  had  only 
sojourned  in  Geneva  for  a  short  time,  was  arrested  in  1553  by  Calvin's 
order  and  condemned   to  the  stake,  a  judicial   murder  which  has  left  an 


GENEVA.  46.  Route.     185 

indelible  stain  upon  the  memory  of  the  stern  and  unforgiving  reformer. 
The    execution   took  place  on   the  Champel ,   a  hill  to  the  S.  of  the  town. 

The  attempts  made  by  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  at  the  beginning  of  the 
17tb  cent,  to  recover  possession  of  Geneva  were  abortive.  Many  Protestant 
princes,  who  recognised  Geneva  as  the  bulwark  of  the  Reformed  church,  con- 
tributed considerable  sums  of  money  towards  the  fortification  of  the  town. 

In  the  18th  cent.  Geneva  was  greatly  weakened  by  intestine  troubles. 
Jean  Jacqves  Soitsseav,  the  son  of  a  watchmaker,  was  bom  here  in  1712, 
and  remained  in  his  native  town  during  his  early  youth.  His  writings, 
which  exhibit  ability  of  the  highest  order,  exercised  a  great  influence  over 
the  opinions  of  his  age,  but  their  tendency  was  highly  injurious  to  society, 
and  he  passed  »  troubled  and  agitated  life.  At  the  instigation  of 
Voltaire-  and  the  university  of  Paris,  and  by.  order  of  the  magistrates  of 
Geneva,  his  ^Emtle''  and  '•Contrai  Sociaf  were  burnt  in  1763  by  the  hang- 
man, as  being  ^t^m^raireSy  scandaleux^  impies  et  tendants  d  ditmire  la  ri- 
ligian  chritienne  et  tout  let  gouvemementt\  He  died  at  Ermenonville,  near 
Paris,  in  1778. 

On  15th  April ,  1798 ,  the  French  entered  Geneva,  annexed  the  town 
to  the  French  Republic ,  and  made  it  the  capital  of  the  Dipartemetit  du 
Uman.  The  events  of  1814  having  restored  it  to  liberty,  it  became  in- 
corporated with  the  Swiss  Confederation ,  of  which  it  became  the  22nd 
Canton.  The  later  history  of  Geneva,  the  rise  of  Radicalism  in  1846, 
the  ascendancy  of  James  Fazy  and  his  fall  in  1864,  are  probably  already 
familiar  to  the  reader. 

47.    Environs  of  Geneva.  Femex.   Salive.  Voirons. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  188. 

Omnibuses  and  other  conveyances,  see  p.  178. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Geneva,  both  banks  of  the  lake  are  stud- 
ded  with  a  succession  of  villas ,  many  of  which  display  consi- 
derable taste.  The  Villa  Rothschild  at  Pregny  (see  below)  is 
one   of  the   few  which  may  be  visited  without  special  permission. 

Right  (W.)  Bank.  At  Le»  Dilices ,  the  Villa  Tronchin ,  property  of 
Voltaire  from  1756—1760  \  at  Varemb^,  Mac  Culloch  C  Ch&teau  de  rim- 
peratrice"',  formerly  occupied  by  the  Empress  Josephine,  and  afterwards 
by  Lola  Montez) ;  at  Le  Rivage ,  the  Villa  of  the  Countess  Gasparin  *,  at 
Prigny,  Adolf  Rothschild  (an  imposing  chateau  recently  built,  visible  from 
the  lake  \  magnificent  ^view  of  Mont  Blanc  from  the  pavilion  *,  admission 
on  Tuesd.  and  Frid.  2 — 6  by  cards,  procured  gratis  at  the  hotels  at  Geneva). 
The  road  to  it  from  Geneva  leads  to  the  1.  by  the  station  and  passes  un- 
der the  line,  this  being  also  the  road  to  Femex,  which  is  followed  as  far 
as  a  (1  M.)  garden-pavilion,  where  a  finger-post  indicates  the  way  to 
Pregny  to  the  r.  The  entrance  to  the  garden  is  lij.j  M.  farther. 

Left  (E.)  Bank.  At  Les  Eaux  Vivet^  Favre  de  la  Grange  (a  magnifi- 
cent cbateau  containing  the  Parting  of  Venus  and  Adonis,  an  early  work 
of  Canova)  \  Diodati  (Villa  of  Lord  Byron). 

Walks.  The  most  beautiful  are  on  the  right  bank  by 
Petit  and  Grand-Sacoonnez  along  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
which  commands  a  view  of  the  lake  and  Mont  Blanc,  as  far  as 
Versoiz  (p.  189)  on  the  bank  of  the  lake,  whence  Geneva  may 
be  regained  either  by  railway  or  steamboat.  On  the  left  bank: 
from  the  Jardin  Anglais  (p.  180)  along  the  quay,  through  the 
avenue  of  plane-trees,  skirting  the  lake  as  far  as  (3  M.)  Vesenas 
(inn  with  garden  by  the  lake);  return  by  Gologny  (*Restaurant 
at  the  Chalet  Suisse^  beautiful  view  of  Geneva  and  the  lake),  or 


186     Route  47.  SALfcVE. 

farther  to  the  E.  by  Chougny.  From  both  these  roads  Mont  Blanc 
is  visible. 

Omnibuses  leave  the  Place  Cornavin  (near  the  station)  every 
hour  for  Femez  (Truite),  which  lies  4^2  M.  to  the  N.  W.  of 
Geneva.  On  the  road,  from  a  hill  near  Petit  Sacconnex,  there 
is  a  charming  view  of  Geneva ,  the  lake,  and  Mont  Blanc.  Fernex 
is  in  French  territory.  Voltaire  may  be  regarded  as  the  founder 
of  this  little  town.  He  purchased  the  land  in  1759,  attracted 
industrious  colonists,  founded  manufactories,  built  a  chateau  for  him> 
self,  and  erected  a  church,  over  the  portal  of  wliich  he  affixed 
the  ostentatious  inscription:  Deo  erexit  Voltaire.  The  chateau, 
which  has  been  much  altered,  still  contains  a  few  rooms  with 
reminiscences  of  the  founder.  Fine  view  from  the  garden-terrace 
(not  accessible  on  Sundays). 

Caroogey  to  which  a  tramway  runs  from  the  Place  Nenve  in 
Geneva  (10  c),  see  p.  211. 

The  *Saliye  (Petit  and  Grand),  a  long  hill  of  limestone 
rock,  rises  4  M.  S.  E.  of  Geneva,  in  the  territory  of  Savoy 
(France).  On  the  N.W.  side  it  is  nearly  perpendicular,  while 
on  the  S.E.  it  presents  a  gentle  slope,  covered  with  pastures 
and  numerous  habitations.  The  Petit-Salhve  (2946'),  its  N. 
extremity,  extends  to  the  Arve.  It  affords  a  beautiful  view, 
greatly  surpassed  however  by  that  from  the  Grand-Saleve  (4278'), 
which  embraces  the  Mont  Blanc  chain,  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  the 
Jura,  the  Cantons  of  Geneva  and  Vaud,  and  part  of  France. 
At  the  top  is  the  Auberge  des  Treize  Arbres.  The  still  higher 
prolongation  of  the  Salfeve  to  the  r.  is  termed  Les  Pitons  (4537'), 
the  highest  point  of  which  is  marked  by  a  stone  tower. 

The  most  direct  route  to  the  Grand-Sal^ ve  (10  M.)  from  Geneva 
is  by  Carouge,  Crevin ,  and  then  through  the  Grande  Gorge  by 
a  winding  path.  The  road  leads  by  Ck^ne  (p.  212)  to  (7^/2  M.) 
Momez  (*Eeu  de  Geneve;  *Ecu  de  Savoie ;  Bellevue),  a  charming 
village  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Petit-Sal^ve,  and  a  favourite  summer 
resort  of  the  Genevese;  and  to  Monnetier  (2336')  (*H6tel' 
Pension  de  la  Reconnaissarice),  situated  in  a  defile  between  the 
Petit  and  Grand- Saldve.  The  ruined  towers  at  the  end  of  the 
new  road  have  been  converted  into  a  pension  (Chdteau  de 
Monnetier).  From  this  point  the  ascent  of  the  Petit-Salhve  occu- 
pies V2^^-?  ^^^^  of  the  Grand'SaUve  V/2  hr. 

Omnibus  from  Geneva  to  Homex,  see  p.  178.  Donkeys  at  Momex  and 
Monnetier  i.  fr.  per  hr.  Pedestrians  may  descend  by  the  steps  on  the  17. 
side  ('Pas  des  Echelles")  to  (^jahr.)  Feyri'er,  whence  Carovge  (p.  211)  is 
2i|2  M.  distant. 

•Lei  Voironi  (4777';  omnibus  to  the  base,  see  p.  178),  a  long 

mountain   to  the  N.E.    of  Geneva  (see   p.  180),    affords   a  very 

pleasing  prospect,  extending  from  the  Dent  d'Oche  to  the  mountains 

of  the  Lake    of  Annecy,    and   embracing  the  Mont  Blanc  chain. 

On  the  E.  side,  150  yds.  below  the  summit,  are  the  Hdtel  and  tb^ 


VOmONS.  47.  Route.      187 

Chalet  des  Voirons  (the  latter  the  less  expensive).  Beautiful 
walks  may  be  taken  thence  to  the  Crite  d'Audoz^  an  eminence 
V2  ^'  *o  tl*e  S.  W. ;  to  an  old  monastery  on  the  N.  W.  slope ; 
to  the  signal  on  the  summit  where  there  is  a  pavilion  (4777'); 
and  to  the  (1  hrO  Pralaire  (4613'),  the  S.  peak. 

The  mo9t  freqnented  road  to  the  moutain  from  GeneTR  is  by  (ISi'sM.) 
Bons  (omnibiui,  p.  178),  from  which  the  traveller  may  walk  or  drive  to  the 
summit  by  the  Col  de  Saxel  in  2i|2 — 3  hn.  —  The  shorteflt  route  is  by  La 
Bergue  on  the  road  to  the  Val  de  Sixt,  reached  by  carriage  in  I'j'z  hr. ;  thence 
by  a  good  bridle-path  on  the  W.  side  of  the  mountain,  commanding  a  beau- 
tiful view  of  the  lake  and  environs  of  Oeneva,  to  the  hotel  in  Qifs  hrp.  — 
Or  the  same  road  may  be  followed  to  BoUge^  on  the  E.  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, Tijslf.  from  La  Bergue,  whence  the  hotel  may  be  reached  by  a  steep 
footpath  in  2  hrs. 

The  Fort  de  VEeluse  and  Perte  du  Rhdne  (in  France)  may  be 
reached  by  the  Geneva  and  Lyons  railway  in  1  hr.,  see  p.  207. 


48.    From  Geneva  to  Martigny  by  Lansaime  and 
Villenenve.    Lake  of  Geneva  (Northern  Bank). 

Bailway.^  In  4i|4  — 5i|ahrs.  [to  Lausanne  Vli-^2%  to  Vevay  2i|4— Sifi, 
to  Sion  (B.  61)  51 U— 6^12  hrs.) ;  fares  13  fr.  80,  9  fr.  60,  6  fr.  90  c.  (to  Lausanne 
6  fr.  3&,  4  fr.  46,  3  fr.  20  c,  to  Vevay  8  fr.  30,  5  fr.  80,  4  fr.  20  c,  to  Sion  16 fr. 
80,  11  fr.  60,  8  fr.  40  c).  From  Geneva  to  St.  Maurice ,  and  from  Bouveret 
to  Sion  (comp.  R.  49)  return  -  tickets,  available  for  the  same  day  only,  are 
issued  (on  Sundays  to  Bex  at  reduced  fares,  available  for  2  days).  It  should 
be  particularly  oh«erved  that  passengers  by  all  trains  to  and  from  Bex 
change  carriages  at  St.  Maurice.  —  Comp.  Introd.  X. 

Steamboats  (Helvitie^  Limany  Aigle^  Bontvard^  and  Wifikelried)y  along 
the  Jiarthem  Bank  far  preferable  to  the  railway:  to  Morges  (4  fr.,  1  fr.  70  0.) 
in  2ilzhrs.,  to  Ouchy  (Lausanne,  6  fr.,  2  fr.)  in  3  hrs.,  to  Vevay  (6  fr.  50, 
2  fr.  70  c.)  in  SMa— 4  hrs.,  to  Villeneuve  (7  fr.  50,  3  fr.)  in  4»(4  — 4»l2  hrs. ; 
to  Bouveret  (5  fr.,  21/2  fr.)  in  4>|4 — 5  hrs.  Return-tickets  for  two  days  at 
a  fare  and  a  half,  available  also  for  the  return-route  by  railway ,  in  which 
case,  however,  they  ari  valid  for  the  day  of  issue  only.  Landing  and 
embarkation  free.  —  Stations  on  the  V.  Bank  (those  in  italics  have  piers) : 
Versolx,  Coppet,  C^ligny,  Nyon^  Rolle.,  MorgeSy  Ouchy  (Lausanne),  Lutry^ 
Cully  y  Ciorsier,  Vevay  (piers  at  the  Grand  Hotel  de  Vevey,  at  the  ch&teait 
of  M.  Couvreu,  and  at  the  Hotel  Monnet),  Clarent- Montr evXy  Territet-Chil- 
louy  Villeneuve.  —  The  steamboats  'Chillon'  and  'Guillaume  Teir  ply  be- 
tween the  IK.  and  S.  banks,  and  between  Evian  and  Geneva  twice  daily  (the 
*Chablais\  'Ville  de  Genfeve",  and  'Montblanc'  also  make  the  latter  trip 
twice  daily,  see  p.  203) :  Stations :  Belotte ,  Bellerive ,  Aniires ,  ffermancey 
Nemier^  Thonon.  (From  Evian  to  Morges  or  Ouchy  2  fr.,  or  1  fr.).  —  Ser- 
vice along  the  Bouifiem  Bank  (from  Geneva  to  Bouveret,  steamers  ^Simplon" 
and  ^Italie"*),  see  p.  206.  There  is  no  table  d^hdte  on  board  these  boats, 
but  a  plain  dinner  may  be  procured  for  2  fr.  —  The  route  along  the  N. 
bank  is  preferable  to  the  S.  (R.  49) ,  as  it  affords  a  more  extensive  view 
of  the  Alps. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva  and  Ghamouny  may  be  inexpensively  visited 
from  Geneva,  without  retracing  any  part  of  the  route,  in  3 — 4  days.  1st 
Day.  By  the  first  steamer  along  the  S.  bank  (R.  49)  to  Bouveret  and  thence 
by  railway  to  l^artigny  ,  or  from  Geneva  to  Hartigny  direct  by  the  first 
train ;  arriving  at  Martigny  at  noon,  the  traveller  has  still  time ,  in  the 
beight  of  summer,  to  cross  the  Col  de  Balme  (R.  54)  or  the  Tdte  !Noire 
(R.  63)  to  Argenti^re  in  the  valley  of  Chamouny.  —  2nd  Day.  Early  in  the 
morning  by  Les  Tines  to  the  Chapeau,  over  the  Mer  de  Glace  to  Montanvert 
9Pd  Chamouny.    In  the  afterpoop  to  th^  Fl^g^re ,  returning  to  Chamouny 


188     Soute  4d.         LAKE  OF  GENEVA.  From  Geneva 

in  the  evening  (R.  52).  —  3rd  Day.    By  diligence   to  Geneva  (R.  51).    Ex- 
cursion-tickets, see  p.  212. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva  (1230'),  Fr.  Lac  Liman,  Ger.  Genfer  See, 
the  Lacui  Lemanus  of  the  Romans,  is  55  M.  in  length  along 
the  N.  hank,  and  481/2  M.  along  the  S.  bank;  9  M.  wide  be- 
tween Rolle  and  Thonon,  8  M.  between  Ouchy  and  Evian,  and 
11/2  M.  between  the  Pointe  de  Genthod  and  Bellerive ;  500' 
deep  near  Chillon,  1014'  near  Meillerie,  and  300'  between  Nyon 
and  Geneva.  The  area  is  about  225  sq.  M.,  being  15  sq.  M.  more 
than  that  of  the  Lake  of  Constance.  In  shape  it  resembles  a  half- 
moon,  with  the  horns  turned  towards  the  S. ;  this  form  is  most 
distinctly  and  beautifully  observed  from  the  Signal  de  Bougy 
(p.  191).  The  E.  horn  formerly  extended  9  M.  farther  towards 
Bex ,  ,but  the  deposit  brought  down  by  the  Rhone  has  gradu- 
ally filled  up  this  part  of  the  lake,  and  the  alluvial  soil  thus 
formed  daily  increases  in  extent. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva  differs  from  the  other  Swiss  lakes  in  its  deep  blue 
colour,  most  of  the  other  lakes  being  of  a  graeauh  hue.  This  blue  tint  is 
ascribed  by  Sir  Humphrey  Davy  (who  lived  some  years  at  Geneva,  and 
died  there  in  1828),  to  the  presence  of  iodine^  a  view  which  the 
Swiss  scientific  men  do  not  accept.  Fish  are  not  abundant.  There  are  21 
different  kinds,  the  most  esteemed  of  which  are  the  Ferraz^  the  '■  Felchen  ^ 
of  the  Lake  of  Constance.  The  navigation  of  the  lake  is  inconsiderable, 
the  largest  of  the  barges  carrying  180* tons  only.  The  graceful  lateen  sail 
used  here,  and  rarely  seen  except  on  the  Mediterranean  and  on  the  Scottish 
lakes  (where  they  are  termed  ^goose-wings'),  has  a  very  picturesque  ap- 
pearance. The  banks  are  clothed  with  the  sweet  and  wild  chestnut,  the 
walnut,  the  magnolia,  the  cedar  of  Lebanon,  and  the  vine. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva,  like  that  of  Constance,  is  subject  to  occasional 
changes  of  level  (sepches).  At  particular  spots,  especially  where  the  bed  of 
the  lake  contracts,  the  water  rises  several  feet  without  any  apparent  cause 
or  previous  commotion,  remains  at  this  height  for  a  period  of  25  min.  at 
most,  and  then  subsides  to  its  original  level.  This  phenomenon  is  usually 
attributed  to  the  atmospheric  pressure  on  the  surface  of  the  water  ^  it 
occurs  more  frequently  at  night  than  during  the  day,  and  in  spring  and 
autumn  oftener  than  in  summer,  and  is  most  marked  when  the  sun  sud- 
denly begins  to  shine  brightly  from  amidst  heavy  clouds.  The  waves  of 
the  lake  in  stormy  weather  are  termed  by  the  natives  *moutons''.  In  the 
early  months  of  the  year  the  water  is  lowest  ^  in  July,  August,  and  September 
the  melting  of  the  snow  occasions  a  rise  of  5  or  6'.  The  currents  (ar- 
dpres)  caused  by  the  rising  of  subterranean  springs  are  frequently  so  strong, 
that  no  oarsman  can  make  way  against  them.  Waterspouts  also  occur  oc- 
casionally. It  has  been  ascertained  that  when  the  temperature  of  the  lake 
at  the  surface  is  76**  Fahr. ,  at  a  depth  of  923'  it  is  only  46".  The  lake  has 
never  been  entirely  frozen  over. 

The  Lake  has  for  centuries  been  a  theme  for  writers  of  all  countries. 
Its  connection  with  some  of  the  greatest  names  of  modem  times  is  univer- 
sally known  ^  Voltaire  and  Goethe  speak  of  it  with  enthusiasm  j  Rousseau 
makes  it  the  scene  of  his  impassioned  romance,  the  ^!Kouvelle  H^loi'se'^ 
the  exquisite  stanzas  of  Byron,  who  spent  some  time  on  its  shores,  de- 
scribe its  varied  beauties  \  and  Alexander  Dumas  deems  it  worthy  of  com- 
parison with  the  bay  of  Naples.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted  that  it  is 
rivalled  by  the  lake  of  Zurich  in  picturesqueness ,  while  in  grandeur  it 
is  far  surpassed  by  the  Lake  of  Lucerne.  J(f<mt  Blanc  is  visible  from 
the  W.  bank  only,  from  Geneva,  Nyon,  Rolle,  and  particularly  from 
Uorges  (p.  190). 


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to  Martigny.  COPPET.  48.  Routt.      189 

Steamboats,  seep.  187;  departure,  see  p.  178.  The  banks  of 
the  lake  are  beautifully  planted  and  studded  with  numerous 
and  attractive  villas. 

Yenoiz  (1263'),  a  considerable  village,  once  belonged  to  France. 
Choiseul,  the  minister  of  Louis  XY.,  being  hostile  to  Geneva, 
contemplated  founding  a  rival  city  here.  The  streets  were  even 
mapped  out,  but  the  design  was  afterwards  abandoned. 

Coppet  (Croix  Blancfie ;  Ange ;  H6te!r-Pension  du  Lac)y  opposite 
Hermance  (p.  203).  The  chateau  formerly  belonged  to  Neckevj 
a  native  of  Geneva,  who  became  a  banker  at  Paris  and  minister 
of  finance  to  Louis  XVL  In  1790  he  quitted  Paris  and  retired 
to  Coppet,  where  he  died  in  1804.  His  daughter,  the  celebrated 
Madame  de  Stael  (d.  1817),  the  first  lady-writer  of  her  age,  also 
resided  at  the  chateau  for  some  years.  Her  desk,  her  portrait 
by  David,  and  a  bust  of  Necker  are  shown  to  visitors.  The  father 
and  daughter,  with  other  members  of  the  family,  are  buried  in 
a  chapel  concealed  by  a  group  of  trees  and  enclosed  by  a  wall 
to  the  W.  of  the  castle.  The  property  now  belongs  to  the  Due 
de  Broglie^  grandson  of  Madame  de  Stael. 

1fjoiL(^H6telduLac,  carriages  to  St.  Cergues,  see  below;  *Angey 
unpretending,  near  the  station,  V4  ^*  ^^^^  the  lake);  the  Colonia 
Julia  Equeatria,  or  Noviodunumy  of  the  Romans.  The  ancient 
castle  in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  walls  10'  in  thickness, 
and  five  towers,  now  the  property  of  the  town,  was  built  in  the 
12th  century.  Camot  (d.  1823),  the  able  and  devoted  adherent  of 
Napoleon,  found  a  refuge  here.  Farther  on,  among  the  trees, 
stands  the  chateau  of  Prangins,  formerly  the  property  of  Joseph 
Buonaparte ;  La  Bergerie,  a  portion  of  it,  now  belongs  to  Prince 
Jerome  Napoleon;  the  remaining  part  has  been  converted  into 
the  ^Pension  Orand  Chdicau  de  Prangina*. 

On  a  promontory  stands  Promenthoux,  and  on  the  opposite 
bank,  3  M.  distant,  Yvoire  (p.  203).  The  Jura  mountains  gradually 
recede.  The  most  conspicuous  peaks  are  the  Dole  (see  below), 
the  highest  of  the  chain,  rising  afcout  600'  above  its  neighbours, 
and  to  the  N.  of  this  the  Noir-Mont  (5118').  The  lake  forms 
a  semicircular  bay  from  the  mouth  of  the  Promenthouse  to  the 
Aubonne  beyond  RoUe,  and  here  attains  its  greatest  width  (see 
p.  188).  The  banks  of  this  bay,  termed  La  Cdte,  yield  one  of 
the  best  Swiss  wines  (p.  174). 

Ascent  of  the  D6le^  a  pleasant  excursion  in  clear  weather.  Omni- 
bus from  Nyon  in  3  hrs.  (fare  2»|»  fr.)  to  St.  Oerguea  (HOtel  du  Canton  de 
Vaud;  Union;  Pension  Delaigue^  and  several  others^  the  Observatoire^  a 
small  cabaret  on  an  eminence,  5  min.  from  the  post-ofTice,  between  the 
old  chateau  of  St.  Cergues  and  the  Noirmont,  commands  an  admirable 
view),  a  village  at  the  K.E.  base  of  the  Ddle,  two-thirds  of  the  way 
from  the  top,  frequently  visited  in  summer  on  account  of  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  air.  The  road  from  Nyon  to  St.  Cergues  leads  by  (3  M.) 
Trilexy  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  The  traveller  should  drive  (6  fr.)  as  far  as 
the  beginning  of  the  well -shaded  old  road,  l^fs  M.  beyond  Trelex,  which 


190     BouU  48.  ROLLK.  From  Geneva 

follows  the  telegraph  wires,  and  leads  straight  to  St.  Cergues  (4  U.)-  One- 
horse  carr.  to  Tr^lex  4,  to  St.  Cergues  12  fr.  and  fee.  From  St.  Cergues 
the  summit  of  the  *Sole  (5005')  is  reached  in  2  hrs.  (guide  5  fr.,  not 
absolutely  necessary).  The  view  is  picturesque  and  extensive,  and  the 
migestic  Uont  Blanc  is  seen  to  great  advantage.  —  From  OinginSj  i^k  M. 
to  the  W.  of  Tr^lex,  a  road  leads  to  the  (6  H.)  Chalet*  de  la  Divonne^  ijt  hr. 
from  the  top  of  the  Ddle.  —  A  better  route  for  pedestrians  leads  by  La 
Rippty  4ijs  M.  to  the  W.  of  Nyon,  and  (SJ4  U.)  Venddrnty  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  from  which  a  pleasant  forest-path  ascends  to  the  summit  in  3  hrs. 

Diligence  from  St.  Cergues  by  Let  RousseSy  a  small  French  frontier- 
fort,  and  Le  Braesue^  to  the  Lac  de  Jaux,  Le  Lieu,  and  Le  Pont,  a  pleasant 
route  (comp.  B.  45). 

BoUe  (*TtU  NoirCy  with  view;  Couronne),  the  birthplace  of 
the  Russian  general  Laharpe,  tutor  of  the  £mp.  Alex.ander  I., 
and  one  of  the  most  zealous  advocates  of  the  separation  of  the 
canton  of  Yaud  from  Bern  (1798).  An  Obelisk  has  been  erected 
to  his  memory  on  a  small  island  in  the  lake. 

On  a  vine -clad  hill  1  hr.  to  the  K.  of  Rolle,  above  the  village  of 
Bougpy  is  a  famous  point  of  view  termed  the  ^Signal  de  Bougy  (29i(y), 
which  commands  the  lake,  the  mountains  of  Savoy,  and  Mont  Blanc  tower- 
ing behind  them.  Attbanne  (*Couroane),  a  very  old  village,  lies  2  M.  £.  of 
the  Signal.  Ihe  church  contains  a  monument  to  the  French  Admiral 
Duquesne  (d.  1687).    Omnibus  from  Aubonne  to  (li|2  M.)  stat.  Allaman. 

The  bank  of  the  lake  between  Rolle  and  Lausanne  is  almost 
flat.  On  a  promontory  lies  the  village  of  St.  Prex;  then,  in  a 
wide  bay,  Morget  (H6tel  des  Alpes,  on  the  quay ,  pension  4  fr. ; 
Hdtel  du  Portj  Couronne),  a  small  manufacturing  town,  with  a 
harbour,  and  an  old  chateau  now  used  as  an  artillery  magazine. 
The  medisBval  chateau  of  Vufflens  on  an  eminence  at  some 
distance  to  the  N.  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  Queen  Ber- 
tha (p.  165).  From  this  point  ♦Mont  Blanc  is  visible  in  clear 
weather  in  all  its  majesty  to  the  r. ,  through  an  opening  in 
the  mountains. 

The  steamboat  next  reaches  Onohy  (1230')  (*HdTEL  Beau- 
RiVAQE,  on  the  quay,  with  pleasant  jgarden,  baths,  etc.,  R.  4  fr.,  L.  i|s, 
B.  li|s,  D.  4,  A.  1  fr. ;  Angbb,  indifl'erent^  *Lake  Bath*  for  gentlemen  and 
ladies,  ^jz  fr.  —  As  there  is  no  post-ofiice  here,  travellers  should  direct 
their  letters  to  be  addressed  to  one  of  the  hotels),  formerly  Rive,  the  port 
of  Lausanne.  The  railway  station  (p.  174)  is  about  ^/^  M.  from 
Ouchy,    and  Lausanne  lies  ^4  ^*  higher  (comp.  the  PlanJ. 

Lansaime  TIGSSQ.  H6tels.  *Faucok  (P1.  a),  R.  from  2i|2  fr.,  L.  ijs, 
B.  li|2,  D.  at  1  (/cl.  3,  at  5  o'cl.  4,  A.  1  fr. ;  Hotel  Gibbon  (P1.  b),  opposite 
the  post-office-,  in  the  garden  behind  the  dining-room  the  historian  Gibbon 
wrote  the  concluding  portion  of  his  great  work  in  1787.  —  *Bei.levub 
(PI.  c)i  *  Hotel  du  Grand  Pont  (PI.  d),  near  the  bridge,  R.  2,  B.  1»J4, 
D.  3,  A.  ijs  fr.,  a  cafiS  below  i  Hotel  Richb  Mont  (PI.  e),  to  the  1.  on 
the  way  from  the  station  to  the  town ;  *  Hotel  xt  Pension  BelvedAbb, 
well  situated  near  the  'Belvedere**  promenade ,  R.  from  V\t  fr. ,  D.  3  fr. ; 
A.  »|2,  L.  »lg  fr.  —  *  Hotel  du  Kobd  (PI.  g)  Ruedu  Bourg,  with  caf(^, 
R.  and  A.  2i|2,  B.  V\4  fr.  \  Hotel  d'Angletebbe  (PI.  f) :,  Hotbl  dv  Raisin 
(PI.  h)  \  all  of  the  second  class.  —  Hotel  des  aIpes  (also  a  caf6) ,  at  the 
station ,  in  a  garden.  Pensi<ms :  Pension  Chevallieb  ,  5  fr. ,  and  many 
others.  —  *Cafi-R€»iaurant  at  the  Ouino-Theatrey  pleasant  view  from  the 
veranda. 

Omnibna  from  the  station  into  the  town  or  to  Ouchy  (to  the  steamboats), 
»|»  fr.,  box  »J2  fr.  —  Fiacres  dear:   to  the  station  2  fr. 


to  Martigny,  I.AUSANNE.  48.  BouU.      191 

Post  and  Tftloi^pli  OfiUcei  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  the  station. 
English  Church  erected  by  Mr.  Haldimand. 

Lausanne  J  the  Lausonium  of  the  Romans,  with  26,520  inhab. 
(3517  Rom.  Cath.},  occupies  a  commanding  and  beautiful  situa- 
tion on  the  terraced  slopes  of  Mont  Joraty  over-shadowod  by  its 
cathedral  on  one  side,  and  its  castle  on  the  other.  The  interior 
of  the  town  is  less  prepossessing.  The  streets  are  hilly  and 
irregular,  and  the  houses  in  the  older  part  insignificant.  The 
two  quarters  are  connected  by  the  handsome  *Orand~Pont, 
erected  in  1839 — 1844,  also  named  the  Pont-Pichard  after  the 
architect  who  designed  it.  The  nearly  level  street  constructed 
by  him  intersects  the  town  and  passes  under  the  castle  by  a 
tunnel,  50  paces  long,  near  the  Place  de  la  Riponne.  The  new 
quarters  of  the  town  contain  a  number  of  handsome  houses. 

The  Protestant  *Cathodral  (PI.  6),  erected  in  1235—1275, 
and  consecrated  by  Gregory  X.  in  the  presence  of  Rudolph  of  *^ 
Hapsburg,  is  a  Gothic  edifice  of  simple  but  massive  construction. 
The  terrace  on  which  it  stands  is  approached  from  the  market- 
place by  a  flight  of  164  steps  of  mean  appearance.  The  sa- 
cristan (marguillier)  lives  to  the  1.  (N.)  of  the  principal  entrance, 
No.  5. 

In  1536  a  celebrated  Disputation  took  place  in  this  church,  in  which 
Calvin^  Farel^  and  Virtt  participated,  and  which  resulted  in  the  removal  of  the 
episcopal  see  to  Freiburg,  the  separation  of  Vaud  from  the  Roman  Church, 
and  the  suppression  of  the  supremacy  of  Savoy.  The  Interior  (352'  long, 
ISO'  wide)  is  remarkable  for  its  symmetry  of  proportion.  The  vaulting 
of  the  nave,  66'  in  height,  is  supported  by  20  clustered  columns  of  dif- 
ferent' designs.  Above  the  graceful  triforium  runs  another  arcade,  which 
serves  as  a  framework  for  the  windows.  The  choir  contains  a  semicircular 
colonnade.  In  the  arcades  which  surround  it  appears  an  ancient  form  of 
pilaster,  a  relic  of  the  Burgundian-Romanesque  style  of  architecture.  The 
beautiful  rose  window  and  the  W.  and  S.  portals,  with  their  carving,  also 
merit  inspection.  Above  the  cupola  rises  a  clock-tower,  covered  with  iron. 
The  finest  *Monuments  are  those  of  Duke  Victor  Amadeus  VII J.  of  Savoy 
(d.  1451),  whom  the  Council  of  Bale  (p.  2)  elected  pope  under  the  title  of 
Felix  V. ;  farther  on  in  the  choir  are  monuments  to  Otto  of  Orandson  (?) 
who  fell  in  a  judicial  duel  (the  absence  of  hands  to  the  figure  has  no  sym- 
bolical signification)  ^  the  bishop  Ouillaume  de  Menthonex  (d.  1406)  \  the  Rus- 
sian Princess  Orlow  (d.  1782)  j  the  Duchess  Caroline  of  Curland  (d.  1783) ; 
Harriet  Stra^ord-Canning  (d.  1818),  first  wife  of  Lord  Stratford  de  Red- 
cUffe,  at  that  period  ambassador  in  Switzerland  (by  Bartolini ,  not ,  as  is 
commonly  believed,  by  Canova)i  Countess  Wallmoden-Oimbom  (d.  1783), 
mother  of  the  Baroness  of  Stein,  the  wife  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  mi- 
nister, etc.  A  tablet  on  the  wall  of  the  N.  transept  near  these  monuments 
bears  the  following  inscription:  ''A  la  nUmoire  du  Major  Davely  mort  sur 
Viehafaud  en  1733^  le  S4  Avril^  martyr  dee  droit*  et  de  la  liberty  du  peuple 
Vaudois\  a  tribute  paid  to  his  memory  by  Laharpe  (p.  ItiO),  who  succeeded 
in  efi'ecting  that  for  which  Davel  was  beheaded  as  a  traitor. 

The  Terrace  (formerly  the  churchyard)  commands  a  fine  *view 
of  the  town ,  the  lake,  and  the  Alps  of  Savoy ;  the  prospect  is  still 
more  extensive  from  the  summit  of  the  tower,  162'  in  height.  The 
adjoining  episcopal  palace  (Evichi)  is  now  used  as  a  prison  and 
court  of  justice.     The  view  from  the  ancient  episcopal  Cattle 


192     Itoute  46.  LAUSANNE.  From  Geneva 

(PI.  7)  (now  the  Cantonal  Council  Hall)  which  stands  higher 
up,  is  also  very  fine.  It  was  erected  in  the  13th  cent.,  but 
has  been  repeatedly  altered. 

The  Cantonal  Huienm  (PI.  1)  (open  Wed.  and  Sat.  10—4, 
Sund.  11 — 2 o'clock)  in  the  College  near  the  cathedral,  contains 
a  cabinet  of  natural  history,  a  valuable  collection  of  freshwater 
conchylia,  presented  by  M.  de  Charpentier  (d.  1855),  relics  from 
Aventicum  (p.  165)  and  Vidy,  the  ancient  Lausanne,  and  valuable 
Celtic  Antiquities  from  the  ancient  lake-dwellings. 

The  Arland  Musenm  (PI.  19),  founded  by  an  artist  of  that 
name  in  1846 ,  in  a  large  building  in  the  Riponne  opposite  the 
corn-exchange  (Orenette),  is  open  11  —  3,  gratis  on  Sund., 
Wed.,  and  Sat.,  at  other  times  fee  1  fr.  It  contains  a  few  pictures 
by  old  masters  and  several  good  modern  works :  Calame,  Lake  of 
Brienz;  Diday,  Rosenlaui;  Oleyre,  Execution  of  Major  Davel 
(see  above),  etc.  —  In  the  vicinity,  Rue  Chaucran  16,  is  the 
Musie  Induatriel  ElSmentaire,  with  well  arranged  industrial  collec- 
tions (admission  on  Wed.  and  Sat.  12 — 3i/2>  Sund.  11 — 12  o'clock). 

The  admirably  organised  Blind  Asylnm  (Asyle  des  Aveugles), 
*/2  M.  from  the  town,  on  the  high-road  to  France,  was  founded 
by  the  wealthy  and  benevolent  Mr.  Haldimand  (d.  1862),  who 
amassed  a  considerable  fortune  in  England.  The  Blnmer  In- 
stitution, for  children  physically  or  mentally  diseased,  at  the 
chateau  of  VenneSj  is  1^2  M.  above  Lausanne,  on  the  road  to 
Bern.  The  Penitentiary,  erected  in  1828,  is  a  model  of  good 
order.     The  Schools  of  Lausanne  enjoy  a  high  reputation. 

The  Montbenon,  an  eminence  close  to  the  town,  and  on  a 
level  with  it,  situated  on  the  road  to  Geneva  which  diverges 
to  the  W.  near  the  Hotel  du  Grand- Pont,  is  laid  out  with 
avenues  on  the  W.  side ,  commanding  a  charming  view  of  the 
lake ,  and  serving  as  a  promenade ,  an  exercising-ground,  and  a 
place  for  public  meetings.  The  environs  of  Lausanne  are  more 
beautifully  wooded  than  those  of  the  towns  on  the  E.  bay  of  the 
Lake  of  Geneva. 

The  *  Signal  (2126'))  ^f^  hr.  walk  above  the  town,  commands  a  justly 
celebrated  view.  From  the  post-office  to  the  castle  >|4  hr.  \  follow  the  road 
over  the  tunnel  for  about  100  paces  ^  then  ascend  to  the  r.  by  a  paved 
path,  and  thence  by  a  flight  of  steps  on  the  1.  to  the  carriage-road; 
follow  this  to  the  r. -till  the  summer-house  and  pleasure  grounds  are  seen 
on  the  r.,  and  finally  enter  them  by  a  footpath.  The  view  embraces  a 
great  part  of  the  lake.  Blont  Blanc  is  not  visible  from  this  point,  but  is 
seen  from  the  Orandes  Roches  (i^js  M.  from  the  town ,  to  the  r.  of  the 
Yverdon  road),  another  charming  point  of  view.    (Indiflerent  inn. J 

The  steep  and  lofty  slopes  at  the  base  of  which  lie  the  villages 

of  Lutry,  Cully,  and  St.  Saphorin,  bear  the  name  of  La  Vaux, 

and  yield  one  of  the  best  and  strongest  of  the  Swiss  white  wines. 

Between  Pully  and  Lutry,  higher  up,  is  the  lofty  viaduct  of  the 

,  Lausanne -Freiburg  line,    across  the  valley  of  the  Paudhze.     The 


to  MatUgny.  VEVAY.  48.  BouU.      193 

amphitheatre  of  mouutains  becomes  grander  as  the  steamboat 
advances ;  the  Moleson ,  Dent  de  Jaman ,  Rochers  de  Naye ,  the 
Tour  d'Ay  ^nd  Tour  de  Mayeu,  the  Dent  de  Morcles  and  Dent 
du  Midi;  between  these,  to  the  S.,  Mont  Catogne,  and  in  the 
background  the  snowy  pyramid  of  Mt.  Velan.    Stat.  Coraitr^  then 

Veyay,  Fr.   Vewey,  the  Vibiscua  of  the  Romans. 

Hotels.  *Tboi8  Codsonneb,  or  H6tel  Monnet^  on  the  lake^  *6rand 
Hotel  de  Vbvet,  to  the  W.  of  the  town  \  *Okand  Hotel  du  Lac,  to 
the  £.  of  the  Couronnes;  these  three  hotels  are  spacious  and  comfortable, 
chaises  B.  2-— 4  fr.,  L.  1,  B.  11(2,  dejeuner  a  la  fourchette  3,  table  d'hote 
at  1,5,  andT^lt  o''cl.  4,  A.  1  fr.,  reading,  smoking  and  billiard-rooms,  and 
warm  baths.  —  ^Hotel  LtM an,  to  the  W.  of  the  Gouronnes,  ^Hotel  8knn, 
both  on  the  lake,  charges  more  moderate;  Hotel  du  Faucox,  opposite 
the  Couronnes ,  smaller ,  well  spoken  of  Trois  Rois  ,  not  far  from  the 
station,  no  view^  Croix  Blanche,  near  the  post-office;  "^Hotel  du 
PoMT,  at  the  station,  unpretending;  Hotel  de  la  Poste,  in  the  town.  — 
Peaaions  see  p.  196. 

Cafii.  C€^fi  du  Lac;  BelUvue;  Des  Alpes;  all  on  the  new  quay,  with 
terraces.  —  Birnoz^  Rue  du  Lac. 

Baths  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town;  small  bath-houses  on  the  lake  (60  c); 
farther  on,  a  swimming-bath  (7 — 12  a.  m.  for  ladies  only).  Warm  Bal/m 
at  the  Hotels  Monnet,  Senn,  and  Trois  Rois. 

Station  on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Veveyse. 

Post  Olftae,  Place  de  TAncien  Port.  —  Telegraph  Ottce  opposite  the 
N.  side  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  —  Bankars :  Oeo.  Glas^  Place  de  la  Maison 
de  Ville;  A.  Cvinod  Ghvrehill^  Place  du  Marchd  21. 

Omaibnt  from  the  station  to  the  hotels  20,  box  10  c. ;  to  La  Toiir- 
de-PeilB  30,  box  15  c. ;  to  Chexbres  from  the  post-office  1  fr.  (see  p.  163).  — 
One-Hone  Oarriage,  half-a-day  8  fr.  and  2  fr.  driver's  fee. 

B4r«ing-boatt  may  be  hired  at  the  quay  and  the  Place  du  Marchd : 
without  rower  1  fr.  per  hr. ,  with  1  rower  2,  with  2  rowers  3  fr. ;  to 
Chillon,  with  1  rower  6,  with  2  rowers  10  fr. ;  to  St.  Gingolph  (p.  204) 
same  charges;  to  the  rocks  of  Meillerie  (p.  204)  with  2  rowers  12,  with  3 
rowers  16  fr. 

Pianos  at  Rattmberger-g,  Place  de  THotel  de  Ville.  —  NeHUr^s  Atelhr 
depeinttire^  at  La  Tour;  studios  of  Madame  Hegg  (flowers)  and  Valovis 
(oils),  both  in  the  Place  du  March^. 

Bookseller.    Btnda^  at  the  Hotel  Monnet  (also  music,  etc.). 

Physicians.  Dr.  De  Montety  Dr.  Curehod^  Dr.  Ouisan,,  Dr.  Muret^  and 
Dr.  Rosier,  —  Qrape-cure^  p.  196. 

English  Church  Service  at  the  Church  of  St.  Clair. 

Vevay y  charmingly  situated  at  the  influx  of  the  Vevey.e 
(1263') ,  is  the  second  town  in  the  Canton  de  Vaud,  with.  7887 
inhab.  (1393  Rom.  Cath.).  Rousseau  has  contributed  greatly 
to  immortalise  this  spot.  The  views  from  the  small  terrace  9t 
the  market ,  the  quay ,  and  the  new  Chdteau  of  M.  Couvreu 
(beautiful  *  garden  with  plants  of  southern  growth,  fee  1  fr.) 
embrace  the  whole  scene  of  the  ''Nouvellt  Heto'lse\  the  'burning 
pages'  of  which  accurately  depict  this  lovely  neighbourhood.  To 
the  E.  the  Tour  de  Peilz ,  Glarens ,  Montreux ,  and  Chillon  are 
visible;  next,  Villeneuve  and  the  mouth  of  the  Rhone;  in  the 
background  the  Alps  of  Yalals,  the  Dent  du  Midi,  Mont  Velan 
(adjoining  the  Great  St.  Bernard)  and  Mont  Catogne  (the  SSugar- 
loaf);  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  lake,  the  rocks  of  Meillerie, 
overshadowed  by  the  Deut  d'Oche;   At  the  foot  of  the  mountains 

B^DKKBR,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  13 


194     BouU  4S.  VEVAY.  Prorfi  Geneva 

the  village  of  St.  Gingolph   (p.  204).    The  Quai  Sina  and   Per- 
donnet  aftbrd  a  beautiful  walk,  sheltered  from  the  N.  wind. 

The  Ghnroh  of  Bt.  Martin,  erected  in  1498,  on  an  eminence 
(the  ^Terrasse  dti  Panorama')  among  vineyards  outside  the  town, 
surrounded  by  lime  and  chestnut  trees ,  commands  a  lovely  pro- 
spect, it  is  only  used  for  service  in  summer.  An  ^Jndieateur  des 
Montagues'  has  been  placed  here. 

In  the  church  repuse  the  remains  of  the  regicides  Ludlow  C-potestatis 
arbitrariae  oppugnator  <tcerrifnus\  as  the  marble  tablet  records)  and  Brough- 
tiin.  The  republicanism  of  Ludlow  wa«  of  the  purest  kind;  he  opposed 
the  ambitious  views  of  Cromwell,  and  was  free  alike  from  hypocrisy  and 
fanaticism.  Broughton  read  the  sentence  to  King  Charles  (''diguatus  fuit 
xententiam  regis  regutn  profari^  quam  ob  cau»am  expulsus  patria  sua"  is 
the  inscription  on  his  monument).  On  the  restoration  of  Charles  IL 
he  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  refugees,  a  request  with  which  the 
8wiss  government  flrnily  refused  to  comply.  Ludlow's  House,  which 
stood  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town  ,  has  been  removed  to  make  way  for  an 
addition  to  the  Hotel  du  Lac.  The  original  inscription  chosen  by  himself, 
'■Omne  solum  forti  patria\  was  ptirchased  and  removed  by  one  of  his  de- 
scendants. 

In  the  best  wine-years  the  guild  of  vintners  (VAMtayt  des  VigneroHs) 
celebrates  a  curious  festival  at  Vevay,  probably  a  relic  of  the  superstitions 
of  the  Roman  age.  The  last  occasion  of  the  kind  was  in  1885,  when 
thousands  of  visitors  were  attracted  by  the  novelty  of  the  spectacle.  The 
principal  feature  qf  the  ceremony  consists  in  a  grand  allegorical  pro- 
cession ,  in  which  sacred  and  mythological  subjects  are  often  blended 
together  with  absurd  incongruity. 

The  chateau  of  *Hauteville«  2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Vevay,  with  an 
admirably  kept  park,  commands  a  beautiful  view  from  the  terrace  and 
temple.  In  the  same  direction,  2  M.  higher,  is  the  mediaeval  chateau  of 
Blonay,  which  has  been  in  possession  of  the  family  of  that  name  for 
centuries;  the  path  from  Hauteville  to  Blonay  inclines  to  the  r.  through 
vineyards,  walnut  groves,  and  picturesque  villages.  In  returning,  the  path 
to  the  r.  beyond  the  bridge  ^nay  be  descended  to  the  carriage-road  below, 
which  leads  to  the  (1  M.)  bridge  below  Chalelard^  where  the  path  (de- 
scribed below)  from  Vevay  to  Montreux  and  Chillon  may  be  followed. 
About  1  hr.  to  the  N.E.  of  Blonay  are  the  Pleladea  (properly  PUpauXy 
4488'),  a  celebrated  point  of  view ,  at  the  £.  base  of  which  are  the  amall 
sulphur-baths  of  LAUiaz  (3428'). 

To  the  E.  of  Vevay,  on  the  1.,  is  M.  Sillig's  BeUerive  school, 

to  the   r.  is   the   manege   or   riding  -  school ,    with   the   play  and 

gymnastic  ground.      The   little   fleet  belonging   to   the   pupils   is 

visible   from   the  Hdtel   Monnet,    lying    at    anchor    or    cruising 

about    on    the   lake.      The   tower  among   the   trees  beyond,   the 

Tour  de  Peilz  (Turris  Peliana)^  said  to  have  been  built  by  Peter 

of   Savoy  in   the   13th  cent. ,  was   used   as   a   prison   before  the 

separation   of  the  cantons  of  Vaud  and  Bern.     The  neighbouring 

chateau  of  M.  Rigaud  contains  a  collection  of  ancient  weapons.    In 

the  vicinity  is  a  villa   erected  in  1857  by  the  Princess  LieynitZy 

widow   of    Frederick    William    III.    of  Prussia   by    a   morganatic 

marriage  (d.  1873). 

From  Vevay  to  Freiburg,  see  R.  39;  over  the  Jaman  into  the  valley  of 
the  Sarine  and  to  Thun  R.  38.  A  pleasant  excursion  to  St.  Qingolph 
(i^\-i  hr.  by  boat)  and  Novel  (tm  foot),  in  the  valley  of  the  3ioi*ge,  thence 
ascending  the  Hlanrhavd  (p.  204).  Inns  at  St.  Gingolph  and  Novel  very 
poor ;  the  traveller  should  therefore-  bring  refreahments  from  Vevay. 


to  Matiigny.  OLAR£NS.  48.  UouU.      195 

Pedestrians  proceeding  from  Vevay  to  Montrcux  and  Chillon  (T^jz  M.) 
should  avoid  the  hot  and  dusty  high-road ,  and  select  the  shady  path 
along  the  slope  of  the  hill,  winding  among  villas  and  gardens  ,  and  com- 
manding lovely  views  of  the  lake.  It  is  now  crossed  by  the  railway 
in  many  places,  and  is  therefore  somewhat  difficult  to  find.  Take  the  first 
vineyard-path  to  the  1.,  1  M.  beyond  La  Tour  ^  and  bear  to  the  r. ;  in  12 
min.  to  the  1. ;  12  min.,  finger  post  (p.  149)  to  the  r.  to  Maladeyre  and 
Clarens;  7  min.  to  the  1.;  to  the  r.  a  new  chateau  ^  immediately  afterwards 
cross  a  bridge  \  17  min.  cross-way,  but  still  follow  the  broad  path  *,  3  min. 
below  the  ch&teau  castle  of  Chdtelard^  built  towards  the  end  of  the  15th 
century  \  then  cross  a  bridge  to  the  r.  and  descend  the  paved  path  \ 
5  miiw  to  the  1.,  and  ascend  slightly  \  3  min.  Churchyard  of  Clarens  (with 
several  handsome  monuments)  commanding  a  lovely  view;  the  path  con- 
tinues at  the  same  height,  traverses  a  grove  of  walnuts,  and  leads  to 
the  Oli  hr.)  church  of  Montreux ,  thence  to  Veytaux^  and  down  to  the 
high-road. 

Not  far  from  the  lake,  3^/4  M.  from  Vevay,  lies  the  beautiful 
village  of  Clarenff  immortalised  by  Rousseau.  On  a  promontory 
to  the  W.  is  situated  Les  Cretes,  a  chestnut  copse,  sometimes 
termed  the  ^Bosquet  de  Julie\  Rousseau's  'Bosquet',  however, 
has  long  since  disappeared,  having  been,  according  to  the  in- 
dignant comments  of  Lord  Byron ,  uprooted  by  the  moilks  of 
St.  Bernard,  to  whom  the  land  belonged,  to  make  way  for 
vineyards.  Beautiful  view  from  above  Clarens,  near  the  church- 
yard (see  above). 

On  this  favourite  S.E.  bay  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva  a  large  number  of 
FensioBB  (see  Introd.  Ill)  have  established  themselves.  The  best-known 
are  here  mentioned  in  their  order  from  Vevay.  At  Vkvay  :  Pension  du 
Chateau  (6 — 8  fr.),  three  houses  to  the  E.  of  the  Hotel  Monnet,  with  a  large 
shady  garden  on  the  lake;  a  few  houses  farther  Periston  du  Quai;  then 
Pension  MaUlard,  all  with  a  view  of  the  lake  (5  fr.);  Pension  TFo^if  (4r-6fr.), 
Rue.  des  Promenades,  recommended  to  ladies.  Pension  du  Panorama^  at 
the  back  of  the  town;  Pension  Chemenin^  10  min.  above  the  town,  charm- 
ing view,  5 — 6fr.  Farther  up  (at  St.  Legier)  Pension  Biguin^  (at  Blonay) 
Pension  MaJonnieVy  4 — 6  fr.  —  Near  Vevay,  at  La  Touk  de  Pkilz:  Pension 
Victoria^  on  the  lake ;  adjoining  it,  Pension  du  Paradis ;  Pension  Burckhardt^ 
in  the  little  town  of  La  Tour ;  Bellevue^  pleasant  garden,  fine  view ;  Du 
Rivage  (Prilaz);  testier  (Riant-Site)y  for  gentlemen.  —  Au  Basskt,  near 
Clarens,  the  ^Pension  Ketterer^  recently  enlarged,  sheltered.  At  Clakuns, 
to  the  r. :  *  Hermitage^  on  thi  lake;  1.,  Pension  Oab^rel  (5 — 6  fr.) ;  r., 
^Pension  Mury  (i  fr.),  unpretending;!.,  ^Pension  Moser  iifr.)\  r.,  Pension 
Merenen  (4  fr.);  Maison  PuinxieuXy  suites  of  apartments  of  4  rooms, 
kitchen,  servants  room,  bed  and  table-linen,  at  150 — 200  fr.  per  month. 
In  the  village:  Major  (S'jg  fr.).  Between  the  village  and  the  railway- 
station:  Oenton  (5  fr.).  Opposite  the  station:  H6tel  des  CrHes{b — 6  fr.),  well 
shaded.  Between  Clarens  and  Vkkmkx  (all  on  the  lake):  Pension  Alexandre 
(5  fr.),  delightfully  situated;  Richelieu  (5—8  fr.);  *Lorius  (three  houses), 
adjoining  the  residence  of  Dr.  Carrard.  At  Chailly,  *  Pension  Benker 
(shaded  by  fruit  and  walnut-trees),  4  fr. ;  at  Cheumkx,  higher  up  (above 
Vernex) ,  several  pensions  {Du/our,  etc.)  at  4  fr.,  well  shaded.  —  At 
Vkunkx:  1.,  Pension  Qermann;  r.,  ^Gygne^  pension  6— 8  fr.,  also  a  hotel 
(R.  2>|.i,  B.  m-i  A.  8|4  fr.),  boat  to  Chillon  (2i|2  hrs.  incl.  stay)  with  1  rower 
2i|«j  fr. ;  in  the  village,  Monod  (d^js  fr.) ;  next  to  the  post  office,  Beaulieu 
(4  fr.);  higher  up,  close  to  the  station,  *H6tel  el  Pension  de  Montreux 
(4'(2— 6'|2  fr.).  —  Between  Vernex  and  Tehritkt,  on  the  bank  of  the  lake: 
to  the  r.,  Monvey  ^  well  fitted-up  (4>|',i — 6M2  tr.);  Beau-Sejour;  liolandais; 
Ildtel  Suisse;  Bellevue  (4i(2  fr.);  1.,  Plaine  de  Monlrenx  (4 — 5  fr.),  opposite 
the  steamboat-pier;  1.,  above  the  road,  Haute-Rive  (4 — 5  fr.);  farther  on,  r., 
''^ Beau- Rivage  and  *Bon  Port  (4 — 6  fr.),  the  three  last  cummanding   a  fine 

13* 


196     fiottle  48.  MONTUEUX.  From  Geneva 

view.  At  lIoNTKEUX :  ^Mlle.  Mooter  (5  fr.),  with  pleasant  view;  ♦fattWcr, 
attentive  landlady  \  adjacent,  F^Ute  Pension  Vaniier^  5  fr.  —  At  Tekritet  : 
*H6Ul  des  Alpes^  containing  90  rooms  (fpom  2  fr.)  and  'Salons'  (5 — 10  fr.), 
a  favourite  rendezvous  of  visitors,  table  d''hdte  at  2  and  6  (^cl.  3  fr., 
pension  from  7  fr.;  opposite,  Mai  son  des  Alpes  ^  in  which  suites  of 
apartments  may  be  hired  for  200  —  400  fr.  per  months  r.,  Mounond^ 
31(2—4  fr. ;  *Rdhring  (H6UI  Bonivard),  R.  from  2,  B.  i%  A,  and  L.  1  fr.  — 
At  Vettaux,  ^Masson  (4—5  fr.).  —  Between  ChiUon  and  VUlenewvt^  *La 
PrinlannUre  (4 — 6  fr.),  shady  walks-,  also  the  handsome  *H6tel  Byron 
(R.  2,  D.  4,  L.  1,  A.  1  fr.).  —  Near  Ghon  (3002'),  in  a  healthy  and  benutiful 
situation,  *IIdtel  Right  Vaudois  (R.  from  2  fr.,  B.  lifi,  D.  4  fr.,  Pension 
5 — 10  fr.),  two  houses,  recommended  for  the  wheycure,  reached  by  »  good 
carriage-road  (2  M.,  one-horse  carr.  6  fr.,  two  horse  11  fr.  incl.  fee),  and 
a  steep  footpa.th  (>|2  hr.).  Adjoining  it,  Hdtei  Belletme  (4 — 5  fr.).  At 
Glion,  *II6tel  du  Midi  (4  fr.),  and  other  pensions  at  moderate  charges. 

31o8t  of  these  Pensions  receive  passing  travellers  at  hotel  prices,  t)«t 
in  autumn  they  are  often  full.  The  grape-cure  generally  begins  at  the  end 
of  September  and  lasts  about  a  month.  Grapes  charged  *J2  fr.  per  lb.  — 
Aigle  (p.  199)  and  Bex  (p.  199)  have  lately  become  places  of  considerable 
resort.  In  the  height  of  summer  when  the  heat  on  the  lake  and  in  the 
valley  of  the  Rhone  becomes  overpowering,  the  pensions  at  Chateau  d^Oex 
(p.  154)  are  much  frequented.  There  are  also  similar  pensions  at  Geneva, 
see  p.  1T7. 

All  the  villages  which  lie  scattered  about,  partly  on  l^e  lake 
and  partly  on  the  mountain,  Clarens ,  Chernex,  Vernex^  Olion, 
Colonges ,  Vtytaux,  etc. ,  are  in  the  parish  of  Montreux.  This 
district  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  brook  of  Montreux,  the 
groups  of  houses  on  the  r.  bank  being  named  collectively  Chdtelard 
(p.  195),  those  on  the  \.  Les  Planches.  Kontrenz  {Hotel  deVVnion ^ 
Pont ,  both  poor ;  pensions  see  above ;  Bendas  book-shop  and 
reading-room),  lying  in  the  centre  of  these  scattered  hamlets,  on 
the  lake,  possesses  a  handsome  church  which  commands  a  superb 
*view  of  the  lake,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rhone  to  a  point  far 
beyond  Lausanne.  Figs,  pomegranates,  and  laurels  flourish  here  in 
the  open  air,  and  the  wine  is  much  esteemed.  Consumptive 
patients  are  frequently  sent  to  Montreux  owing  to  its  sheltered 
situation. 

Excursions  from  Mo  ntreux.  *Iioc?iers  de  Nafe  (6706'),  the  S.  neigh- 
bour of  the  Jaman  ,  ascent  4 ,  descent  3  hrs. ,  view-  embracing  the  whole  of 
the  Bernese  mountains,  Valais,  and  Savoy  \  Mont  Blanc  only  partially  visible. 
Easiest  ascent  by  Glion  and  Moni  Cau;  but  most  picturesque  over  the 
wooded  ridge  of  Mont  Sonchaud^  for  which  last  a  guide  is  desirable.  — 
Mont  Cuhli  (3940'),  N .E.  of  Chernex,  to  the  summit  and  back  in  4  hrs.  — 
To  the  *Gorge  du  Chaudron,  a  prof ou Ad  wooded  ravine,  with  groups 
of  rocks  and  waterfalls,  between  Glion  and  Sonzier.  The  entire  valley 
is  termed  La  Bate  de  Montreux.  The  walk  to  the  gorge  from  the 
bridge  at  Montreux  and  back  occupies  1  hr.,  or  returning  by  Glion 
2* (2  hrs.  —  By  Chernex  and  Chavlin  to  the  Bains  de  VAlliaz  and  the 
PUiades^  returning  by  Blonmp  (p.  194),  8  hrs.  —  To  the  Val  d""  Illtez^  sec 
p.  205.  —  By  Aigle  to  Ormonts^  see  p.  156.  —  Ascent  of  the  /aman,  see 
p.  158.  Mules  may  be  hired.  —  To  the  Pissevaehe  and  Gorge  du  Trient 
(p.  201)  by  railway,  and  back  in  one  day. 

Stat.  Territet'Chillon.  The  Oavtle  of  Chillon,  with  its  massive 
walls  and  towers,  IV2  M.  from  Montreux ,  stands  on  an  isolated 
rock  22  yds.  from  the  bank,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
bridge.  Boats  are  in  readiness  to  convey  passengers  from  the 
steamboot-pier  to  the  castle  Q/^  hr.). 


to  Martigny.  CHltLON.  48.  Route.      t97 

'^Chillon!  thy  prison  is  a  holy  place, 
And  thy  sad  floor  an  altar,  —  for  "'twas  trod. 
Until  his  very  steps  have  left  a  trace, 
Worn,  as  if  the  cold  pavement  were  a  sod, 
By  Bonnivard!  —  may  none  those  marks  eflTace, 
For  they  appeal  from  tyranny  to  God." 
The  author  of  these  beautiful  lines  has  invested  this  spot  with 
much  of  the  peculiar  intexest  which  attaches  to  it,  but  it  is  an  error  to 
identify  Bonnivard,  the  victim  to  the  tyranny  of  the  Duke  of  Savoy,  and 
confined  by  him  in  these  gloomy  dungeons  for  six  years ,  with  Byron's 
^Prisoner  of  Ghillon\  The  author  calls  his  poem  a  Fable,  and  when  he 
composed  it  he  was  not  awaro  of  the  history  of  Bonnivard ,  or  he  would, 
as  he  himself  states,  have  attempted  to  dignify  the  subject  by  an  endeavour 
to  celebrate  his  courage  and  virtue.  Francis  Bonnivard  was  bom  in  1496. 
He  was  the  son  of  Louis  Bonnivard,  Lord  of  Lune,  and  at  the  age  of  16  inherited 
from  his  uncle  the  rich  priory  of  St.  Victor,  close  to  the  walls  of  Geneva. 
The  Duke  of  Savoy  having  attacked  the  repubHe  of  Geneva,  Bonnivard 
warmly  espoused  its  cause,  and  thereby  incurred  the  relentless  hostility  of 
the  Duke,  who  caused  him  to  be  seized  and  imprisoned  in  the  castle  of 
Grol^e,  where  he  remained  two  years.  On  regaining  his  liberty  he  returned 
to  his  priory ,  but  in  1508  he  wa«  again  in  arms  against  those  who  had 
seised  his  ecclesiastical  revenues.  The  city  of  Geneva  supplied  him  with 
munitions  of  war,  in  return  for  which  Bonnivard  parted  with  his  birthright, 
the  revenues  of  which  were  applied  by  the  Genevese  to  the  support  of 
the  city  hospital.  He  was  afterwards  employed  in  the  service  of  the  repu- 
blic, and  in  1530  when  travelling  between  Bloudon  and  Lausanne  fell  into 
the  power  of  his  old  enemy ,  the  Duke  of  Savoy ,  who  caused  him  to  be 
confined  in  the  castle  of  Chillon.  In  1536  he  was  restored  to  liberty  by  the 
Bernese  and  Genevese  forces  under  Nogelin ,  and  having  returned  to  the 
republic,  he  spent  the  remainder  of  his  life  as  a  highly  respected  citizen. 
He  died  in  1571  at  the  age  of  75  years. 

Above    the   Castellan's    entrance    are    the   words,     ^Oott    der 

Herr  segne  den  Ein-  und  Ausgang^   (God  bless  all  who  come   in 

and  go  out)  inscribed  by  the  Bernese   in  1643.     The  rooms  with 

their  old  wooden  ceilings ,    the  dungeons   with   their   pillars  and 

arches,  and  the  other  reminiscences  of  the  time  of  the  dukes  of 

Savoy  are  interesting  (fee  1  fr.).  The  steps  of  Bonnivard  and  other 

illustrious  captives  have  left  their  traces  on  the  pavement.    A  fine 

effect   is  produced    by   the  beams    of  the    setting   sun  streaming 

through  the  narrow  loopholes  into  these  sombre  precincts.     Among 

the  thousands  of  names  Inscribed  on  the  pillars  are  tho^e  of  Byron, 

Eugene  Sue,  and  Victor  Hugo. 

It  is  an  historical  fact  that  in  the  year  830  Louis  le  Debonnaire  in- 
carcerated the  Abbe  Wala  of  Corvey,  who  instigated  his  sons  to  rebellion, 
in  a  castle  from  which  only  the  sky,  the  Alps,  and  Lake  Leman  were 
visible  (Pertt^  Manum.  II.  p.  566);  this  could  have  been  no  other  than 
the  Castle  of  Chillon.  Count  Peter  of  Savoy  improved  and  fortified  the 
castle  in  the  13th  cent.,  and  it  now  stands  much  as  he  left  it.  The  stmng 
pillars  early  in  the  vaults  are  in  the  early  Romanesque  style,  and  belonged 
to  the  original  edifice.  The  Counts  of  Savoy  frequently  resided  in  the 
castle,  and  it  was  subsequently  converted  into  a  state-prison.  Since  1798 
it  has    been  used  as  a  military  arsenal. 

Between  Chillon  and  Villeneuve,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  is 

the  *H6tel  Byron  (p.  196).     The  lie  de  Paix,  an  islet  30  paces 

long  and  20  wide,   7.2  ^-  ^  ^^^  ^-  0^  Villeneuve,  commanding 

a  complete  panoramic  view,  was  laid  out  and  planted  with  three 

elms   by   a   lady    a   century  ago,  and  recals  Byron's  lines : 


198      Rmite  48.  VILLENEUVE.  From  Geneva 

^And  then  there  was  a  little  isle, 
Which  in  iny  very  face  did  smile, 
The  only  one  in  view."* 

Prisoner  of  Chillon.  S.  XIII. 

In  the  E.  bay  of  the  lake  (1230'),  9  M.  from  Vevay,  I'/o  M. 
from  Chillon ,  lies  Villenenve  (Hotel  de  Ville) ,  a  small  to^n 
surrounded  by  a  wall,  the  Pennilucus^  or  Penneloci  of  the  Romans. 
The  railway  station  is  behind  the  town ,  to  the  E.  (see  below). 
Footpath  to  Montbovon  (p.  157)  over  the  Colde  la  Tinitre  (5341') 
4^2  hrs.,  to  Chateau  d'Oex  (p.  154)  in  6  hrs. 


Railway  Journey  (comp.  p.  187) from  Geneva  to  Lausanne^ 
sec  p.  174.     Lausanne,  see  p.  190. 

The  line  skirts  the  lake  the  greater  part  of  the  way  to 
Villeneuve  ;  a  seat  should  therefore  be  selected  on  the  right  (S.) 
side.  After  the  station  at  Lausanne  is  quitted,  the  Freiburg  rail- 
way (p.  162)  diverges  to  the  1.  Before  stat.  Lutry^  the  line  crosses 
the  Paudtze  (the  viaduct  of  the  Freiburg  line  with  its  nine  arches 
is  above,  to  the  1.),  passes  through  a  short  tunnel,  and  winds 
round  the  vine-clad  slopes  of  La  Vavx.  On  the  opposite  (S.)  bank 
are  the  rocks  of  Meillerie  (p.  204).  Then  another  tunnel.  The 
high-road  traverses  vineyards  to  the  r.,    lower  down. 

From  stat.  Cully,  where  there  is  a  monument  to  Major  Pavel 
(p.  191),  to  Rivaz  St.  Saphorin  the  line  runs  close  to  the  lake. 
(The  line  from  Lausanne  to  Freiburg,  which  has  been  gradually 
ascending,  here  leaves  the  bank  of  the  lake ,  and  turns  inland  to 
the  N.E.)  Near  Vevay  the  train  quits  the  lake ,  crosses  the 
Veveyse,    and  stops  at  the  station  of 

Vevay  (p.  193),  which  lies  behind  the  town. 

The  line  skirts  the  foot  of  the  hills  for  some  distance,  and 
passes  through  a  tunnel  near  stat.  Clarens  (p.  195),  on  emerging 
from  which  it  commands  a  fine  view  of  Montreux,  Chillon  ,  and 
the  E.  bay  of  the  lake.  Stat.  Vernex-Montrenx  (p.  196)  lies 
at  a  considerable  height  above  the  lake.  The  line  again  ap- 
proaches the  lake.  Stat.  Veytanx-Chillon  (p.  196)  is  ^j^  M.  from 
the  castle  {*Cafi  EinholtT,  near  the  station). 

Villenenve,  see  above.  The  line  passes  behind  the  town 
and  enters  the  Rhone  Valley >,  here  3  M.  wide,  and  bounded  on 
both  sides  by  high  mountains.  The  valley  is  flat,  and  in  most 
parts  marshy. 

The  Rhone  flows  into  the  lake  on  the  W.  side  of  the  valley, 
near  Bouveret.  Its  grey  waters,  the  deposit  of  which  in  the  course 
of  ages  has  formed  an  extensive  tract  of  marshy  alluvial  soil,  pre- 
sent a  marked  contrast  to  the  crystalline  azure  of  the  same  river 
where  it  rushes  through  the  bridges  at  Geneva. 

The  first  station  in  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  is  Roche.  Part 
qX  the   jiiountaip   near   Yvorne  (1561')    was  precipitated  on   the 


to  MaHigwy.  AIOLE.  48.  Route.      109 

village  below  by  an  earthquake  in  1.'384.  An  excellent  wine 
is  grown  in  the  gorp;e.  The  large  and  thriving  village  extendi 
along  a  vine-clad  hill  near  Aigle,  a  little  to  the  1.  of  the  rail- 
way. On  the  r.  the  jagged  and  snow-dad  Dent  du  Midi  (p.  206) 
is  visible. 

Stat.  Aigle  (1374')  (*Beau  Site  at  the  station,  comfortable,  pen- 
sion 5 — 6  fr.  ^  *MoN  SftJouK,  also  recommended,  2  niin.  from  the  station; 
*ViCTOBiA,  2  min.  farther,  opposite  the  post  and  diligence  oflllce,  all 
three  hotels  with  baths  and  pleasant  grounds.  —  *Hotel  du  Midi  and 
Hotel  du  Kobd,  both  commercial,  in  the  town  ^l*  M.  fromthe  station.  — 
Gbahd  Hotel  DS8  Bains  on  the  height  above  Aigle,  1V«  M.  fmm  the  railway, 
opened  in  1872),  on  the  impetuous  Orande-Eau  (p.  156J,  the  AquiUi 
or  AquUeja  of  the  Romans,  once  a  Roman  cavalry  station,  is  a 
favourite  summer  resort  (3307  inhab.*).  The  village  is  built  of  the 
black  marble  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 

To  the  Ormont*  (p.  156),  a  pleasant  excursion,  driving  as  far  as 
Sepep,  or  the  whole  way  to  the  Hotel  des  Diablerets  (one-horse  carr. 
there  and  back  15  fr.,  fee  1  fr.). 

To  Villard  ^  a  very  favourite  point  3'|4  hrs.  from  Aigle,  2'|2  hrs.  above 
Ollon  (see  below),  one-horse  carr.  12 — 14.  two  horse  25  fr.  and  fee.  High 
road  to  (2'|4M.)  Ollon,  thence  a  good  carriage  road  with  nuinenms  windings. 
Pedestrians  follow  the  old  road ,  which  diverges  to  the  1.  from  the  new 
immediately  above  Ollon.  About  3  min.  farther  the  path  divides  into  three, 
of  which  Uiat  to  the  extreme  r.  is  to  be  followed.  50  min.  La  Fousaz, 
where  the  path  to  the  1.  must  be  taken  \  35  min.  Huemoz  (pron.  Wemn 
by  the  natives),  charmingly  situated^  V*  hr.  Chetiere^  with  beautiful  view; 
ij'i  br.  Yillaird  (4003') ,  an  insignificant  hamlet  with  several  much  fre- 
quented pensions  (*Orand  Muveran;  Chalet;  Qenillard^  new^  pension  in 
each  5 — 8  fr.).  Admirable  view  of  the  Rhone  valley,  as  well  as  of  the  Grand 
Voveran  (or  Muveran) ,  Dent  de  Morcles ,  Dent  du  Midi ,  etc.  Pleasant 
park-like  environs,  affording  a  variety  of  walks.  —  The  principal  excur- 
sion hence  is  the  ascent  (2  hrs. ,  carriage  road  nearly  to  the  top)  of  the 
*Chamo8sair«  (6972'),  which  commands  a  remarkably  picturesque  view, 
including  the  Diablerets,  Grand  Moveran,  Dent  de  Morcles,  Dent  du  Midi, 
valley  of  the  Rhone,  Sepey,  and  the  Ormonts. 

From  Yillard  to  Ormonts-dessus  over  theColde  laCroix  (5ili') 
3  hrs. ;  descent  on  the  farther  side  to  the  Hotel  des  Diablerets  steep  and 
rough  \  guide  unnecessary  (comp.  p.  156). 

On  an  isolated  wooded  eminence,  rising  from  the  valley  of  the 

Rhone  near  stat.  OUon-St.  IWiphon,  stands  a  tower,  60'  in  height, 

of  Roman  origin ,  the  remnant  of  an  ancient  castle.     The  village 

of  Ollon  (Hotel   de    Ville ,    rustic)   lies   at  the  foot  of  the   hills, 

2  M.  from  the  railway.     A  flnger-post   points  the  road  to  the  r. 

to  Colombey   (p.  205)    on   the  1.  bank  of  the  Rhone,    connected 

with  the  r.  bank  by  a  suspension-bridge. 

Interesting  excursion  to  the  Blocs  Erratiques,  near  (3  M.)  Monihey  in 
the  Val  d'JUiez.    Ascent  of  the  Dent  dn  Midi^  see  p.  206. 

Bex  (1427'),  pronounced  Bay  (*Grand  Hdtel  des  Salines,  with 

baths,  well  situated;  *Vnion;   hdtel   des   Bains;  *Bellevue;  Rail. 

Restaurant  ),  a  small  town  on  the  Aven^on,  lies  ^^4  M.  from  the 

station  (omnibus  30  c).  The  considerable  saltworks  of  Devens  and 

BevieuXj  3  M.  totheN.E.,  approached  by  a  shady  path  of  gradual 

ascent,  may   be   inspected  in  half  a  day  (guide  5  fr.).    Visitors 

usually   drive  to  Devens,  see  the  salt-works,  and  then  visit  th^ 


200     Route  48.  ST.  MAURICE.  From  Qenewi 

mines,  where  the  salt  is  obtained  from  the  saline,  argillaceoiis 
slate  by  steeping  it  in  fresh  water.  —  A  hill  to  the  S.E.,  ^/4hr. 
from  Bex,  crowned  by  the  ruined  Tour  de  Duiny  commands  a 
pleading  survey  of  the  Val  d'Uliez ,  the  Dent  du  Midi,  Dent  de 
Morcles,  etc. 

From  Bex  to  Si  on  by  the  Col  de  ChMlle,  see  R.  58. 

The  line  now  approaches  the  Rhone ,  crosses  it  by  a  wooden 
bridge,  and  unites  with  the  railway  on  the  S.  bank  (Bouveret- 
Sion ,  p.  205).  Before  the  train  enters  a  tunnel  throagh  the 
rock  which  here  descends  towards  the  Rhone,  scarcely  leaving 
room  for  the  high  road,  the  picturesque  situation  of  the  little 
town  is  seen  to  advantage.  The  fortifications  were  built  in  1832 
and  1847,  before  the  war  of  the  Separate  League.  The  single- 
arched'  stone  bridge,  with  its  span  of  70',  by  which  the  high- 
road crosses  the  Rhone,  constructed  in  the  15th  cent.,  rests  with  its 
E.  buttress  on  a  spur  of  the  Dent  de  Morcles  (9639')  and  its  W.  end 
on  one  of  the  Dent  du  Midi  (10,449',  see  p.  206).  Above  ihe 
castle,  half-way  up  the  hill,  is  the  Grotte  aux  Fies^  a  stalactite 
cavern  nearly  2  M.  long.  Cards  of  admission  (1  fr.)  are  sold  by 
the  castellan  of  the  fortress. 

On  emerging  from  the  tunnel  beyond  the  town  (of  which  little 
is  visible  from  the  line),  the  train  stops  at  stat.  St.  Maurice. 
Passengers  by  all  trains  to  or  from  Bex  change  carriages  here. 
To  the  r.,  half-way  up  the  apparently  inaccessible  precipice  at 
the  foot  of  which  the  station  stands,  is  perched  the  hermitage 
of  Notre-Dame-du-Sex  (sax  =  rock),  to  which  a  narrow  footpath 
has  been  hewn  in  the  rock. 

St.  Maurice  (1342')  (Hotel  des  Alpes^  well  spoken  of;  Dent 
du  Midi ;  Ecu  du  Valais),  an  ancient  town  with  very  narrow  streets, 
on  a  delta  between  the  river  and  the  cliffs,  the  Agaunum  of 
the  Romans,  capital  of  the  Nantuates,  is  said  to  derive  its  name 
from  St.  Maurice,  the  commandant  of  the  Theban  legion,  who 
according  to  tradition,  suffered  martyrdom  here  in  302  (near  the 
Chapelle  de  Verolliaz,  see  below).  The  abbey,  probably  the  most 
ancient  religious  house  on  this  side  of  the  Alps,  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  at  the  end  of  the  4th  cent,  by  St.  Theodore.  It 
is  now  occupied  by  Augustinian  monks,  and  contains  some  inter- 
esting old  works  of  art.  Among  these  are  a  vase  of  Saracenic  work- 
manship, a  pastoral  staff  in  gold  with  elaborately  wrought  figures, 
each  ^2  ^'^-  ^"  height,  a  chalice  of  agate.  Queen  Bertha^s  chalice, 
and  a  rich  MS.  of  the  Gospels,  said  to  have  been  presented  to 
the  abbey  by  Charlemagne.  On  the  walls  of  the  churchyard  and 
on  the  tower  of  the  ancient  church  are  Roman  inscriptions. 

The  Baths  of  Lavey  (1420'),  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhone,  lija  M. 
to  the  S.,  above  the  bridge  of  St.  Slaurice,  are  much  frequented.  The 
warm  spring  (100°  Fahr.),  first  discovered  in  1831,  containing  chloride  of 
sodium  and  sulphate  of  soda,  rises  in  the  bed  of  the  Rhone.  * 


to  Mariigny,  VERlfAYAZ.  4S.  Route.     JOi 

Beyond  this,  to  the  r.  of  the  line,  is  the  Chapelle  de  VerolliaZy 
with  rude  frescoes,  supposed  to  mark  the  spot  where  the  6000 
soldiers  of  the  Theban  legion  once  suffered  martyrdom.  On  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Rhone  are  the  Baths  of  Lavey  (see  aboTe). 
The  line  now  approaches  the  Rhone,  and  winds  round  the  spot 
where  a  gigantic  stream  of  mud  from  the  Dent  du  Midi  inundated 
the  valley  in  August  1830,  covering  it  with  huge  blocks  of 
stone  and  debris. 

Stat.  Evionnaz  occupies   the   site   of  the   town  of  Epaunum, 

which  was  destroyed  by  a   similar  mud^stream   in  563.     A  great 

Council  met  here  in  517.     In  front  rises  the  broad  cnow-clad  Mont 

VHan  (p.  235).     Near  the  little  village  of  La  Burma  the  railway 

and  high-road  wind  round  a  projecting   rock  close  to  the  Rhone, 

and  the  beautiful  fall   of  the  Sallenche,    known   as  the  ^iise- 

▼ache,   becomes  visible  on  the  r.     The  Sallenche,    which  drains 

the  glaciers  of  the  Dent  du  Midi,  here  precipitates  itself  into  the 

valley  of  the  Rhone  from  a  height  of  200'. 

The  Pissetac^ie  is  l^jj  M.  from  Vernayaz,  the  nearest  station.  The 
path  to  the  r.  above  the  waterfall,  formerly  accessible  only  to  goats,  is 
now  protected  by  a  balustrade  (1  fr.).  From  the  height  above  the  tall, 
where  a  red  flag  is  usually  waving,  the  glacier  of  Slont  Velan,  the  true 
summit  of  the  Great  St.  Bernard,  is  distinctly  visible. 

Stat.  Vemaya«(1535')  {Hdtel  des  Gorges  du  IVient;  des  Alpes^ 
and  de  la  Poste^  poor;  CafS  at  the  station,  dear),  is  the  starting- 
point  of  the  new  route  to  Chamouny  via  Salvan  and  Triquent 
(see  p.  225),  and  now  possesses  a  staff  of  guides  aiid  horses  (same 
charges  as  at  Martigny:  guide  to  Le  Chatelard  or  Barberine  6,  to 
Chamouny  over  the  Col  de  Balme  12,  Cascade  du  Dailly  4  fr.). 

About  3^4  M.  beyond  Vernayaz,  on  the  r.,  the  traveller  per- 
ceives the  barren  rocks  at  the  mouth  of  the  ^Oorge  du  Trientt 
which  may  be  ascended  to  a  distance  of  ^2  ^-  (where  the  gorge 
widens)  by  means  of  a  wooden  pathway  (similar  to  that  at  Pfaffe]:s, 
p.  285)  attached  to  the  precipice,  immediately  above  the  foaming 
Trient.  Admission  1  fr.  —  At  the  entrance  is  the  *Grand  Hdtel 
des  Oorges  du  Trient. 

The  view  at  the  entrance  to  the  gorge  is  imposing.  The  rocks,  here 
about  42(y  high,  approach  so  closely  to  each  other  at  every  turn, 
that  the  traveller  continually  expects  to  find  himself  in  a  huge  vaulted 
cavern.  The  sunshine  never  penetrates  into  this  gully.  The  report  of  a 
small  cannon  awakens  the  most  deafening  reverberations.  At  the  point 
where  the  path  crosses  the  Trient  for  the  second  time,  the  stream  is  said 
to  be  icy  deep;  at  the  end  of  the  gallery  it  forms  a  waterfall,  SCK  in 
height.  The  gorge  is  8  M.  long,  extending  as  far  as  the  Hotel  de  la 
T3te  Noire  (p.  224),  from  which  its  entrance  is  visible.  —  The  interval 
between  the  arrival  of  one  train  at  Vernayaz  and  the  departure  of  the 
next  suffices  for  the  inspection  of  the  Pissevache  and  the  Goi^e. 

From   Vernayaz   to    Chamouny  by   Salvan,  see  p.  225. 

Near  Martigny,  at  the  apex  of  the  right  angle  which  the 
Rhone  valley  here  forms,  on  a  hill  to  the  r.  of  the  line,  stands 
La  Batiat   (1985'),  a  tsastle  of  the   bishops  of  Sion,  erected  by 


302     Route  48.  MARTIGNY. 

Peter  of  Savoy  in  1260,  and  dismantled  in  1518.  The  steep 
ascent  from  the  Dranse  bridge  occupies  Y4  hr.  It  commands 
a  ""view  of  the  broad  lower  valley  of  the  Rhone  as  far  as 
Sion,  and  some  of  the  Bernese  Alps  (the  Sanetschhorn  and  a 
small  part  of  the  Gemmi  being:  particularly  prominent);  on  the 
mountains  on  the  S.  side  stinds  the  Pierre-li-voir  (see  below), 
resemblinp;  a  tower;  below  are  Martigny  and  Martigny  le  Bourg; 
through  the  valley  to  the  S.W.  runs  the  path  to  the  Fordaz 
(p.  220),  above  which  rise  the  peaks  of  the  Aiguilles  Rouges; 
to  the  N.  the  Dranse,  and  beyond  it  the  Trient  empty  themselves 
into  the  Rhone. 

The  train  crosses  the  Dranse,  an  impetuous  mountain-torrent, 
one  branch  of  which  rises  on  the  Great  St.  Bernard  (p.  236).  The 
station  of  Martigny  is  '/2  ^-  ^™*"  *^®  town  (omnibus  Y2  ^'O* 

Martigny  (15580  (*H6Ul  Clerc,  expensive;  *H6tel  de'la  Tour, 
R.  2,  L.  V2,  B.  11/2,  D.  3,  A.  3/4  fr. ;  ^Grande-Maison-Poste,  R.  2, 
B.  172?  A.  and  L.  1,  D.  4  fr. ;  BeUeiyve^  at  the  station;  Vygne; 
Baths  near  the  Hotel  de  la  Tour,  2  fr.),  the  Roman  Octodvrvm  or 
Civitas  Vallensivm ,  capital  of  the  Veragri ,  is  now  a  busy 
little  town  in  summer  owing  to  the  great  influx  of  tourists, 
being  the  starting-point  of  the  routes  over  the  Simplon  to  the 
Lago  Maggiore  (R.  61),  over  the  Great  St.  Bernard  to  Aosta 
(R.  56),  and  over  the  Tete-Noire  and  Col  de  Balme  (RR,  53, 
54)  to  Chamouny.  The  monastery  of  Martigny  relieves  from 
time  to  time  the  Augustinian  monks  who  occupy  the  Hospice  of 
St.  Bernard  (p.  236). 

Above  Martigny,  on  the  road  to  the  Great  St.  Beniard,  lies 
(3/4  M.)  Martigny  U  Bourg  (Lion  d'Or,  tolerable;  Trois  Cou- 
rounes,  poor,  good  *Coquempey'  wine),  the  vineyards  of  which 
yield  excellent  wine  (Coqvempey  and  la  AlarqvCy  both  known  to 
the  Romans). 

Cretinism  in  its  most  repulsive   form   was  formerly  prevalent 

in  this  angle  of  the  Rhone  valley,  but  the  disease  has  gradually 

retired    before    the   modern    introduction    of   airy    dwellings   and 

other   sanitary    improvements.      The    brown    cotton    material    of 

which  the  men's  blouses   are  made   in  this  district  is   peculiar. 

A    small   kind   of  gnat  with  black,    gauzy  wings  is  a  source    of 

great    annoyance    in    the    marshy   districts    of  the   lower   Rhone 

Valley  in  summer,  especially  towards    evening;    the  windows  of 

bedrooms  should  therefore  be  closed  early. 

The  *Pi«rre-iUVoir(7467'),  a  limestone  peak  in  the  mountain  range  which 
separates  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Val  de  Bagne,  is  frequently 
ascended  from  Martigny  and  the  Baths  of  Saxon  (p.  252),  or  Sembcvncher 
(p.  234).  The  ascent  from  Bfartigny  (6  hrs.),  and  the  descent  to  Saxon  is 
recommended.  (Guide  from  Martigny  8,  mule  10 fr.>  From  the  Co/,  '^hr.  below 
the  summit,  the  descent  may  either  be  made  in  a  rapid,  but  not  very  pleasant 
manner  on  a  kind  of  sledge  to  the  Baths  of  Saxon  in  1 — IMz  hr.,  or  on  foot 
in  3  hrs.  The  summit  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Alps  of  the  Valais 
(from  Mont  Blaoo  to  the  Matterhom),  the  Bernese  Alps  (from  the  Dent  de 


THONON.  49,  RouU.     203 

Uorcles  to  the  Jungfrau),  of  the  Bhone,  EDtreonont,  and  Bagne  valleys, 
and  the  glacier  of  Getroz,  which  occasioned  a  great  inundati<»n  in  1818 
(p.  234).  At  the  back  of  the  Hotel  de  la  Tour  at  Martigny  the  height 
attained  by  the  water  is  indicated  by  an  inscription  on  the  wall. 

Railway  to  8ion^  see  R.  61. 

49.   From  Geneva  to  St.  Maurice  by  Bonveret. 
Lake  of  Geneva  (Southern  Bank). 

Comp.  Map^  p.  188. 

Steamboat  to  Bguveret  by  the  S.  Bank  (railway  in  course  of  construe^ 
tion)  in  4'|2 — 5  hrs.  \  fare  6  or  3  fr.  —  From  Bouveret  to  St.  Maurice  by 
Railway  ^  three  trains  daily  in  correspondence  with  the  steamboat"',  in 
3{4  hr. ;   fares  2  fr.  75,  1  fr.  85,  1  fr.  40  c. 

Those  who  have  seen  the  N.  Bank  (R.  48)  may  choose  this  interesting 
route  by  way  of  variety.  Leaving  Geneva  by  the  first  boat,  they  will 
reach  St.  Maurice  (and  also  Martigny  and  Sion)  as  soon  as  the  train  by 
Lau.«!anne  and  Villeneuve.  Excursion-tickets  from  Geneva  to  Chamouny 
by  Martigny  and  back  by  Sallanchea  (or  vice  versa)  see  p.  212.  Comp. 
also  p.  187. 

The  Road  from  Geneva  to  Bouveret^  being  the  first  part  of  the 
Simplon  route  constructed  by  Napoleon  I.  to  connect  Geneva  with  Milan 
(comp.  B.  61),  runs  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  lake,  and  passes 
through  (93|4  M.)  Dovvaine^  and  Thonon  (9*|4  M.,  nearly  half  way).  Thus 
far  it  is  unattractive',  except  the  first  part,  to  Vesenaz  (p.  185).  From 
Amphion  to  Bouveret  it  skirts  the  rocky  bank  of  the  lake,  and  is  veifv 
picturesque. 

As  the  steaDiboat  quits  the  quay,  it  afTords  a  fine  retropesct 
of  the  tovn  with  its  numerous  villas,  passes  Cologny  and  Vese- 
naz  (p.  185),  and  first  touches  at  BeWertve,  the  station  for  Col- 
longe,  which  lies  a  little  inland.  The  village  on  the  opposite 
bank  is  Genthod  (p.  174).  Next  station  Anihres,  opposite  Ver- 
soix  (p.  189);  then  Hermanee  (opposite  Coppet,  p.  189),  where 
the  brook  of  that  name  falls  into  the  lake,  forming  the  boundary 
between  the  Canton  of  Geneva  and  Savoy.  On  the  N.  bank, 
opposite  Stat.  Nemier,  Nyon  (p.  189)  is  conspicuous. 

Beyond  Yvoire,  with  its  ancient  castle,  situated  on  a  promon- 
>tory,  the  lake  suddenly  expands  to  its  greatest  width  (between 
RoUe  ami  Thonon  9  M.).  The  N.  bank  is  now  so  distant  that 
its  villages  are,  only  distinguished  in  clear  weather.  A  large 
bay  opens  to  the  S.,  in  which  the  village  of  Excenevrex  lies  to 
the  r.  The  mountains  of  Savoy  here  become  more  conspicuous. 
The  steamboat  now  approaches 

Thonon  (1401  ^  (H6tel  de  V Europe^  on  the  terrace;  Balance; 

Ville  de  Genhve),  rising  picturesquely  from  the  lake,  the  capital 

(pop.  4825)   of  the  Savoyard  province  of  Chahlais ,    and  formerly 

a    residence    of  the   Counts   and   Dukes   of  Savoy.      It  possesses 

handsome  buildings  and  a  lofty  terrace  in  the  upper  part  of  the 

town,  the  site  of  the  ducal  chateau  destroyed  by  the  Bernese  in 

1536. 

About  6  M.  to  the  S.  of  Thonon  is  situated  the  small  town  of  Les 
Allingesn,  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  (fine  view). 


204     Route  49.  EVIAN.  P^rom  Geneva 

From  Thonon  a  good  carriage-road  ascends  the  pretty  Valletf  of  the  Dranse 
by  St.  Jean  dTAulph^  with  interesting  ruins  of  a  monastery,  in  8—9  hrs. 
to  Morzine  (Hotel  du  Chamois).  Thence  to  Samoens  and  Sixt,  see  p.  ^>i  \ 
or  to  Cliamp^ry  in  the  Val  d'llliez,  p.  306. 

Farther  to  the  N.,  the  steamboat  passes  the  ruined  chateau 
of  liipaiUe  on  the  bank  of  the  lake,  formerly  the  seat  of  Duke 
Victor  Amadeus  VJII.  of  Saivoy  (p.  191),  who  died  at  Geneva 
in  1401.  The  promontory  round  which  the  steamboat  now  steers 
has  been  formed  by  thte  deposits  of  the  Dranse,  which  falls  into 
the  lake  here  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  stream  of  that 
name  in  the  Yalais,  which  falls  into  the  Rhone  near  Martigny). 
The  high-road  crosses  it  by  a  long  bridge  of  24  arches,  V/2  M. 
from  the  lake.  In  the  bay ,  situated  on  the  high-road,  which 
here  skirts  the  lake,  are  the  sulphur-baths  of  AmphUm,  recently 
much  frequented,  in  tfie  midst  of  a  grove  of  chestnuts. 

The  stesonboat  next  touches  at  Eyuul  (^Hotel  des  Bains ;  Hotel 
Bvian,  with  garden  on  the  lake ;  Hotel  de  France ;  Hdtel  du  Nord ; 
Hotel  de  Fonbonne^  on  the  lake) ,  a  small  town  picturesquely 
situated,  with  a  lofty  and  conspicuous  spire.  Uigh  above  the 
lake,  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  the  Bath-house^  with  alkaline 
baths;  the  garden-terraces  at  the  back  afiTord  a  beautiful  view. 
Most  of  the  summer  residents  at  Evian  and  Amphion  (between 
which  an  omnibus  runs  frequently)  are  French. 

On  the  lake,  near  station  Tour^BondCy  staade  the  old  castle 
of  Blonay  with  its  park  (not  to  be  cwkfounded  i»ith  the  castle 
of  Blonay  near  Yevay,  p.  194).  On  the  opposite  b^nk  lies 
Lausanne  (p.  190),  picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence ;  more 
to  the  £.  is  visible  the  arch  of  the  lofty  Paud^ze  viaduct,  on 
the  Oron  line  (p.  162).  The  mountains  of  the  B.  bank,  which 
the  boat  now  skirts,  become  more  precipitous.  In  a  romantic 
situation  close  to  the  lake  is  ][till«rlaf  or  MiUeteZy  where,  in 
Rousseau's  'Nouvelle  H^lo'ise',  St.  Preux  is  represented  as  taking 
shelter  during  a  storm  at  the  house  of  Madame  Yolttiar.  Napo- 
leon I.  caused  the  rocks  here  to  be  blown  up,  in  order  to  provide 
material  for  the  Simjdon  road.  Meillerie  was  formexly  accessible 
from  the  lake  only.  Charming  view  near  Lea  VqlletteSj  and  still 
more  extensive  from  the  Dent  d^Oehe  (7986',  ascent  6  hrs.). 

St.  Giagolph  (Paste;  Lion  d'Or),   on  a  promontory   opposite 

Vevay  (p.  193),  belongs  half  to  Savoy,  and  half  to  the  canton  of 

Yalais,    the  Jtf6r^«,    which  flows  through  a  deep  gorge,   forming 

the  boundary.     The  grotto  of  Vwhets^  with  its  springs,    may  be 

visited  by  boat. 

A  delightful  excursion,  with  a  succession  of  fine  views,  may  be  made 
by  ascending  the  ravine  of  the  Morge  and  crossing  the  mountain  to  Port 
Valaix  (see  below),  from  whence  the  traveller  may  proceed  to  Bouveret 
or  Vouvry.  Those  who  wish  to  extend  their  walk,  may  follow  the  I. 
bank  of  the  Morge  for  I'l^  hr.  to  ^ovel  (two  poor  inns))  ascend  the  Blaa- 
chard  (4612'^  3  hrs.  there  and  back ;  guide  necessary) ,  and  return  by  the 
r.  bank  of  the  Morge  through  beautiful  forest  to  St.  Gingolph.  t^'rom 
Kovel  to  the  summit  of  the  Dent  cTOehe  (7986'),  in  4—5  hrs. 


to  St.  Maurice.  MCWTHEY.  49.  RouU.     205 

BoQ¥«ret  (Tour)  lies  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva, 
3/4  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  mouth  of  the  Rhone,  which  converts 
the  neighbouring  district  into  a  marsh.  Its  impetuous  current, 
termed  la  Battaglihre^  may  be  traced  for  upwards  of  1  M.  in  the 
lake. 

The  railway  enters  the  valley  of  the  Khone  to  the  8.E., 
following  the  1.  bank  of  the  river.  (Railway  on  the  r.  bank  see 
p.  200.)  Soon  after  leaving  Bouveret,  the  train  passes  a  rocky 
eminence  on  the  r. ,  bearing  the  Port  Valais ,  the  Portus  Val- 
lesiae  of  the  Romans,  which  in  their  time  lay  on  the  lake,  but 
is  now  11/2  M.  distant  from  it.  Near  La  Porte  du  Sec  (1289') 
the  rock  approaches  so  near  the  river  as  scarcely  to  leave  room  for 
the  high-road,  which  passes-  through  a  'Porte'  between  the  pre- 
cipice and  the  Rhone.  In  ancient  times  this  entrance  was  forti- 
fied, and  formed  the  key  to  the  Canton  of  Valais  in  this  direction. 
The  railway  is  constructed  on  the  bed  of  the  river,  which  it  crosses 
by  a  wooden  bridge  to  Cheasel  on  the  r.  bank.  To  the  r.  the 
Dent  du  Midi  (p.  206)  is  visible. 

▼oTivry  (Po8te)j  on  the  r.,  is  the  first  station;  beautiful  view 
near  the  church.  The  Rhone  is  joined  here  by  the  Stoekcdper 
Canal,  which  was  begun  a  century  ago  by  a  family  of  that  name 
for  the  drainage  of  the  district  and  the  transport  of  goods,  but 
never  finished.  To  the  r.  of  the  line,  before  Colombey  is  reached, 
are  the  villages  of  Evionnaz  and  Muraz  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain. Opposite  the  former,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhone,  lies 
Yvorne  (p.  198),  to  the  r.  of  which  rise  the  serrated  Diablerets 
and  the  snow-clad  Oldenhorn.  A  suspension-bridge,  70  yds.  in 
length,  connects  the  banks  of  the  Rhone  between  Colombey  and 
Stat.  St.  Triphon,  on  the  railway  of  the  r.  bank  (p.  199).  The 
nunnery  of  Colombey,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  view,  has  an 
interesting  vestibule. 

On  the  hill  near  stat.  Xo&they  (1453')  (Croix  d'Or;  Hdtel 
de  Morgins),  is  an  old  chateau,  which  was  occupied  by  an  Amt- 
mann  down  to  1798.  In  a  chestnut-grove  (guide  desirable)  20 
min.  above  Monthey,  among  a  number  of  boulders,  is  the  huge 
Pierre  Adto  (pierre  auaper^ue),  balanced  on  a  point  not  exceed- 
ing a  few  square  inches  in  area. 

Monthey  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  ^Yal  d*Illies,  a  valley  12  M.  long, 
which  winds  up  to  the  S.W.  towards  the  mountains  of  Savoy,  and  is  remark- 
able for  its  fresh  green  pastuicf>,  picturesque  scenery,  rare  plants,  and 
stalwart  race  of  inhabitants.  One -horse  carr.  from  Bex  (p.  199)  to 
Champery  13,  two-horse  18  fr.  and  driver's  fee.  Near  Monthey  the  new 
road  ascends  through  vineyards,  and  afterwards  for  2  M.  through  a 
chestnut  wood,  by  numerous  windings,  which  the  pedestrian  may  avoid 
by  following  the  old  paved  bridle-path  (the  beginning  of  which  had  ]>etter 
be  asked  for  at  Monthey).  Beautiful  retrospect  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhone, 
Bex  and  Aigle,  the  Diablerets,  and  the  Grand  Moveran.  About  if^  hr. 
above  Monthey  the  old  path  joins  the  road ,  which  must  now  be  followed 
to  the  1.  where  the  telegraph  wires  turn  in  that  direction ,  and  not  again 
quitted  (path   to  the  r.  leads  to  Morgin).    The  road,  now   nearly  level, 


206     Route  49,  OHAMPl^RY. 

leads  to  (l>|s  M.)  the  beautifully  situated  village  of  TroittorrenU  (Hotel 
and  Pension),  near  the  church  of  which  there  is  a  good  fountain.  (Here 
to  the  W.  opens  the  Val  de  Morgin^  in  which  are  situated  the  baths 
of  that  name,  3  hrs.  from  Monthcy  \  the  waters  are  impregnated  with  iron, 
and  are  chiefly  used  for  drinking.  Inn  tolerable.)  The  road  in  the  Val 
dlllicz  gradually  ascends,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Dent  du 
Midi  all  the  way,  to  (2i|2  M.)   Val  d'llliet  (Inn  with  pension),  and 

(2iJ2  M.)  Ohampery  (3389')  (U6UI  de  la  Dent  du  MidU  R-  2,  B.  lijx,  D.  3, 
L.  and  A.  1,  pension  excl.  R.  i'js  fr.  ^  Crwx  Fid4rale^  unpretending),  the 
highest  village  in  the  valley,  7>|2  M.  from  Monthey,  beautifully  situated 
(one-horse  carr.  to  Monthey  9,  two-horse  14  fr.  \  onmibus  in  summer  daily, 
2  fr.  90  e.).  Pleasant  walk  of  ijz  day  to  the  summit  of  the  Culet  (64i^), 
or  to  the  still  higher  Roc  d'Ayeme^  commanding  a  noble  prospect,  especi- 
ally towards  the  Dent  du  Midi.  Follow  the  path  to  the  Col  de  C!oux  (see 
below)  for  SJ4  hr.  \  then  turn  to  the  r.  by  a  small  shrine  where  the  path 
divides*,  a  large  chalet  on  the  1.  is  next  passed,  and  another  on  the  r., 
farther  up  *,  a  pine  wood  is  then  traversed,  beyond  which  a  narrow  foot- 
path ascends  to  the  cross  on  the  Culet.  Chalets  and  cowherds  afford  fre- 
quent opportunities  of  enquiring  as  to  Ute  route. 

The  *Sent  du  Midi  (10,449^)  is  ascended  in  6—7  (descent  4—5)  hrs.  from 
Champ^ry,  guide  necessary,  fee  according  to  tariff  15  fr.  In  unfavourable 
weather  the  ascent  is  only  made  as  far  as  the  (2  hrs. ,  fee  6*|«  fr.)  chalets 
of  Bonavaux  (several  beds,  coffee  and  milk).  The  last  3  hrs.,  over  rocks 
and  loose  stones,  are  very  fatiguing,  but  without  danger  to  the  practj.sed 
walker.  In  the  latter  part  of  summer  the  path  is  almost  free  from  snow. 
The  view  of  Mont  Blanc  and  the  Alps  of  the  Valais  and  Bern  is  im- 
posing^ the  background  to  the  S.  is  formed  by  the  Alps  of  Dauphiny  and 
Piedmont^  the  Lake  of  Geneva  is  visible  from  Villeneuve  to  Vevay.  In 
descending,  the  traveller  need  not  return  to  Champ^ry,  but  may  cross 
the  Col  de  8u»an/e  (7940^),  the  saddle  between  the  Dent  du  Midi  and  the 
Tour  Salli^re,  to  the  valley  of  the  Sallenehe^  and  descend  by  the  chalets 
of  Van  d'en  Haut  to  Vernayaz  (p.  201),  or  to  Salvan  (p.  225.).  —  La  Tour 
Sallih-e  (10,587')  is  also  occasionally  ascended  (in  9—10  hrs,  guide  30  fr.) 
from  Champ^ry.  The  route  is  difficult  and  fatiguing,  frequently  crossing 
glaciers,  and  the  view  is  inferior  to  that  from  the  Dent  du  Midi. 

From  Champiry  to  Samoins  a  bridle  path  crosses  the  <3ol  de 
Coux  to  the  Dranse  valley,  and  thence  over  the  Col  de  Gol^ze,  an  easy 
and  attractive  walk  of  G'fi  hrs.  ^  guide  (13  fr.)  unnecessary.  At  the  small 
shrine,  which  is  reached  in  sU  hr.,  keep  to  the  1. ;  in  2  hrs.  more  the 
Col  de  Coux  (6463'),  the  frontier  of  Savoy  and  Switserland,  is  reached, 
from  which  a  survey  of  the  valley  of  the  Dranse  is  obtained.  The  first 
saddle  seen  hence  towards  the  1.  is  the  Col  de  (jfoleze.  In  descending,  the 
paths  leading  to  the  r.  to  Morzine  must  be  avoided.  In  IMs  hr.  more  the 
Col  de  Oolize  (6644')  is  attained.  Beautiful  view  in  descenaing,  embracing 
the  side-valley  in  which  Les  Allernandes  lies,  and  a  glimpse  of  the  more 
distant  valley  of  the  Oiffre.  Then  (2  hrs.)  Sarnoins  (Hotel  de  la  Poste; 
Hdtel  du  Commerce,  both  uninviting).  A  chapel  on  the  height  above  the 
church,  5  min.  walk,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valley.  Omnibus  daily 
to  Geneva  at  4.  30  a.m.  in  7  hrs.,  fare  4  fr.  \  from  Geneva  at  2.  30p.m. 
in  8  hrs.  From  Samoens  to  (i^\-i  M.)  Sixt  a  good  road  (comp.  p.  22(1). — 
From  Champiry  to  Sixt  over  the  Col  de  Sageroux  (7907')  8  hrs..  a 
tolerable  path;  guide  necessary  (15  fr.).  This  is  a  more  fatiguing  route 
than  the  above,  and  the  scenery  is  less  pleasing,  but  it  affords  nearer  and 
more  imposing  views  of  the  Dent  du  Midi  and  the  glaciers. —  From  Sixt 
to  Chamouny.  By  far  the  most  interesting  ways  of  approaching  Chamouuy 
are  the  passage  of  the  Col  d'Anlerne  and  Col  du  Brivent  (9 — 10  hrs.)  or 
that  of  the  Col  Lichaud  and  the  Buet  (10 — 12  hrs.),  both  from  Sixt,  the 
former  without,  the  latter  with  a  guide  (comp.  p.  220). 

The  line  crosses  the  K%c,  which  descends  from  the  Val 
d'lUiez.     Near  Massonyer  the  mountains  on  the  r.  approach  nearer 


CULOZ.  50.  Route.     207 

the  Rhone.     Near  St.  Maurice  the  railway  of  the  r.  bank  joins 
that  of  the  1.  (route  by  Bex,  p.  200J. 
bt.  Maorioe,  see  p.  20 J. 

50.    From  Oeneva  by  Cnloz  and  Aix-les-Bains  to 
Chambery,  returning  by  Annecy. 

Railway  to  Aix-les-Bains  in  Sifj  Urs.  (11  fr.  40,  8  Ir.  60,  6  fr.  25  c), 
to  Chamb(Jry  in  4  hrs.  (13  fr.  10,  11  fr.  20,  7  fr.  20  c),  to  Chamousset 
(p.  209)  in  53|4  hrs.  (14  fr.  85,  11  fr.  20,  7  fr.  85  c).  The  express  trains 
to  Lyons  convey  Ist-class  passengers  only ;  tickets,  however,  need  only  be 
taken  to  Culoz  (8  fr.  15  c),  where  carriages  are  changed,  and  a  halt  of 
20  min.  is  made.  The  trains  thence  to  Aix-les-Bains,  Chambery,  etc.  have 
Ist,  2nd,  and  3rd  class  carriages.  Return-tickets,  available  for  the  same 
day,  are  issued  as  far  as  Bellegarde.  Railway  from  Aix-les-Bains  to 
Annecy  in  li|<{  hr.  (p.  208)^  Diligence  between  Chamousset  and  Albert- 
ville,  Albertville  and  Annecy,  Annecy  and  Oeneva  daily. 

The  railway  (Geneva- Lyons)  flrot  traverses  an  uninteresting 
country,  passing  through  numerous  cuttings.  Stations  Meyrhiy 
Saiigny;  on  the  1.  flows  the  Rhone.  Near  stat.  La  Pteine  the 
valley  of  the  J^ondon  is  crossed.  Stations  Chancy  (the  village  lies 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhone)  and  CoUonyes.  The  steep 
slopes  of  the  Mont  Vouache  (3444')  on  the  Savoy  side,  and  the 
huge  buttresses  of  the  highest  part  of  the  Jura  chain  are  here 
separated  by  the  Rhone.  The  lofty  Fort  de  rEoluge,  to  the 
r.,  which  commands  this  entrance  into  France,  was  founded  by 
the  Dukes  of  Savoy,  reconstructed  by  Vauban  under  Louis 
XIY.,  destroyed  by  the  Austrians  in  1814,  and  rebuilt  by  the 
French  ten  years  later.  The  train  now  passes  (in  7  min.)  through 
the  Tunnel  du  Crido ,  2^2  M.  in  length ,  crosses  the  Valserine 
Viaduct,  and  btops  at 

Bellegarde  (Perte  du  Rhotie),  the  French  frontier  station, 
where  luggage  is  examined. 

Above  the  confluence  of  the  Valserine  and  the  Rhone,  about  ^jg  M.  from 
the  hotel,  and  visible  from  the  high-road  to  Collonges,  is  the  so-called 
Perte  dn  Rhone.  When  the  river  is  low,  the  water  disappears  for  about 
100  paces  in  a  cleft  in  the  rock,  which,  however,  has  recently  been  con- 
siderably widened. 

The  train  passes,  through  four  tunnels  and  cros&es  a  lofty 
viaduct  before  it  reaches  ^tat.  Pyt'mwnt  (asphalt -mines  in  the 
vicinity).  Ihe  valley  of  the  Rhone  expands.  At  stat.  Seyssel 
the  banks  are  connected  by  a  double   buspension- bridge. 

Stat.  Qnlom  (774')  (*RaU.  Restaurant)  j  at  the  base  of  the 
Colombier  (5033'),  is  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Lyons,  Macon 
(Paris),  and  Turin.  The  carriages  of  the  Lyons  railway  must 
here  be  quitted  for  those  of  the  Victor-Emmanuel  line,  which 
diverges  S.E.  towards  Mont  Cenls,  and  a  considerable  delay  gen- 
erally takes  place.  The  train  now  traverses  the  broad  valley 
of  the  Rhone,  crosses  the  river,  and  at  stat.  ChdtilUm  with  its 
old  cabtle,  on  a  wooded  promontory  to  the  r. ,  reaches  the  N. 
end    of    the   Lao   du    Bourget   (^02'),    which    is   12  M.    long, 


208      Route  50.  AIX-LES-BAINS.  From  Geneva 

1^2  ^-  broad,  and  250'  deep.  The  line  skirts  the  rocky  E. 
bank ,  passing  through  a  succession  of  tunnels ;  to  the  r.  a 
pleasing  view  of  the  lake,  the  monastery  of  Haute-Combe  opposite, 
and  the  mountains   of  the  W.  bank. 

Aix-l60-Bain8  (8500  (*H6tel  Imperial,  nearest  the  station, 
R.  from  3,  D.  5,  L.  and  A.  2  fr. ;  *Venat,  with  garden;  Globe 
and  Europe  J  D.  4  fr. ;  Ambassadeurs ;  OuilUmd  (Poate);  Vni- 
vera;  the  three  last  expensive;  pensions:  Villa  des  FUurs,  with 
shady  grounds,  12  fr. ;  Chabert,  Bossus,  etc.;  one-horse  carr. 
per  drive  of  25  min.  2  fr.),  known  to  the  Romans  as  Aqiuie 
Allobrogum^  or  Aquae  Gratianae,  Is  a  famous,  but  not  very  attrac- 
tive watering-place  with  3000  inhabitants,  visited  annually  by 
upwards  of  4000  patients,  chiefly  from  Lyons.  It  possesses  warm 
(113**)  sulphur  springs,  the  waters  of  which  are  drunk  and  used 
for  baths.  The  extensive  Etablisaement  Thermal ^  erected  in 
1864,  deserves  a  visit.  The  place  in  front  of  it  is  adorned  with 
a  Roman  Triumphal  Arch,  erected  by  T.  Pompeius  Campanus  in 
the  3rd  or  4th  cent.  The  other  Roman  antiqiuties  (ruins  of 
a  temple,  baths,  etc.)  are  situated  in  private  grounds,  and  can 
only  be  visited  by  special  permission. 

Pleasant  excursion  to  Haut«  Comber  a  Cistercian  monastery  on  the 
N.W.  bank  of  the  Lac  du  Bourget,  at  the  foot  of  the  Mont  du  Chat.  It 
was  formerly  used  as  the  burial-place  of  the  Princes  of  Savoy,  until 
the  Superga  near  Turin  was  employed  (1731)  for  that  purpose.  The  mo- 
nastery, destroyed  during  the  French  Revolution,  was  rebuilt  in  1824  by 
Charles  Felix,  king  of  Sardinia.  The  church  contains  the  monuments  of 
Amadeus  V.,  VI.,  VII.,  Humbert  III.,  Louis  I.,  Baron  de  Vaud,  Jeanne  dc 
Montfort,  Count  Haymon,  Boniface  of  Savoy  (Archbishop  of  Canterbury)  the 
splendid  mausoleum  of  Peter  of  Savoy,  Anna  of  Zahringen,  etc.  The  view 
from  the  neighbouring  tower  of  Phare  de  Oessens  has  been  described  by 
Rousseau.  About  *|4  M.  from  the  monastery  is  the  intermittent  Fontaine 
des  MerveiUes  (comp.  p.  190).  On  the  site  of  the  old  Roman  road  a  good 
high-road  leads  across  the  Mont  du  Chat.  The  traveller  may  advantageously 
combine  a  visit  to  the  monastery  with  a  survey  of  the  country  by  taking 
a  boat  from  Aix  to  Haute-Combe,  whence  it  should  be  sent  on  to  the 
village  of  Bourdeaux,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  road  over  the  Mont  du  Chat;  after 
visiting  the  monastery  and  the  intermittent  spring,  descend  by  foot-paths  to 
the  Mont  du  Chat  road,  which  leads  to  Bourdeaux,  and  return  thence  by 
boat  to  Aix.  Tariff:  boat  with  2  rowers,  to  Haute-Combe,  incl.  stay  of 
1  hr.,  8  fr.,  for  each  additional  hour  1  fr.,  to  Bourdeaux  4  fr.  SO  c. ;  a  pre- 
vious understanding  with  the  boatmen  is  recommended.  —  A  Steamhoat 
plies  round  the  lake  on  Sundays,  halting  for  1  hr.  at  Haute-Combe. 

From  Aix-les-Bains  to  Annecy  a  branch-line  runs  in  2 — 2^|2hr8., 
(fares  4  fr.  40,  3  fr.  35,  2  fr.  45  c.)  by  stat.  Or^sy-sur-Aix,  Albens,  Bloye,  Ru- 
milly  (where  the  Chiran  is  crossed);  then  through  the  pictaresque  valley 
of  the  Fier,  by  MarceUaz  and  Lovagny,  to  Annecy  (p.  211). 

llie  train  now  runs  along  the  E.  bajik  of  the  lake  to 
the  S.  end.  Stat.  Voglans;  to  the  1.  are  the  beautifully  wooded 
slopes  of  Mont  d^Azi  and  the  Dent  de  Nivolet  (4997'). 

Chambiry  (883')  (H6tel  de  la  Paix,  jiesr  .the  station;  de 
France;  de  VKurope;  Poate;  dea  Printta) ,  the  capital  of  Savoy, 
with  20,000  inhab.,  is  a  handsome  looking  town.  On  the  pro- 
menade between  the  railway  and  ihe  town  stands  a  large  menu- 


to  Chambiry.  CHAMB^RY.  50.  RouU.      209 

mental  Fountain ,  adorned  with  life-size  elephants ,  in  memory 
of  General  de  Boigne  (d.  1830)  ^  who  bequeathed  to  Chambery, 
his  native  town,  a  fortune  of  3^2  million  fr.  which  he  had 
amassed  in  the  East  Indies.  The  Rue  de  Boigne,  a  flue  street 
with  arcades,  leads  from  the  monument  to  the  chateau  (at  the 
beginning  of  the  arcades  is  a  side-street  leading  to  the  ca- 
thedral ,  see  below).  The  square  tower  and  part  V)f  the  facade 
belonging  to  the  ancient  and  loftily  situated  Chdteau  of  the  counts 
and  dukes  of  Savoy,  erected  in  1230,  and  now  the  seat  of  the 
pr^fet,  are  still  standing.  The  choir  of  the  chapel,  to  the  r., 
is  a  good  specimen  of  late  Gothic.  The  terrace  of  the  garden 
affords  a  fine  survey  of  the  environs,  the  Dent  de  Nivolet,  and 
Mont  d'Azi  (see  above).  The  small,  but  interesting  Gothic  Ca- 
thedral y  completed  in  1430,  has  been  disfigured  by  later  ad- 
ditions. Chambery  is  the  seat  of  an  archiepiscopal  see.  Ge- 
neral de  Boigne  and  Madame  de  Warens,  the  friend  of  Rousseau, 
are  interred  in  the  church  of  Lemanc,  situated  on  a  height 
above  the  town. 

The  railway  from  Chambery  traverses  a  picturesque  district, 
passing  the  castles  of  Bdtie  and  Chignin.  The  precipitous  Mont 
Qranier  (0358')  on  the  r. ,  forming  the  boundary  between  the 
valleys  of  Chambery  and  Graisivaudan ,  owes  its  remarkable  form 
to  a  landslip  in  1248,  which  buried  sixteen  villages.  A  branch- 
line  diverging  to  the  r.  from  stat.  Route  de  Grenoble  leads  through 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Isere ,  here  called  the  Valley  of  Grai- 
sivaudanj  to  Grenoble.  The  main  line  now  turns  to  the  1.,  and 
reaches  the  river  Ishre  near  stat.  Montmilian^  where  good  wine 
is  produced.  The  castle  on  a  wooded  height,  of  which  a  few 
fragments  only  are  extant,  long  served  as  a  bulwark  of  Savoy 
against  the  French,  abd  was  defended  for  13  months  against  the 
army  of  Louis  XIII.  by  Geoffrey  Benso,  an  ancestor  of  the  able 
Italian  minister  Cavour.  It  was  destroyed  by  Louis  XIY.  in 
1705.  The  line  now  crosses  the  Isere,  passes  stat.  St.  Pierre 
d'Albigny ,  and  reaches  Chamonsset,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arc^ 
where  the  train  is  quitted.    ^ 

Beyond  this  point  the  railway  ascends  the  valley  of  the -4 re,  to  the  r., 
to  Modane^  and  runs  through  the  great  Mont  Cents  Tunnel  {V\2  M.  long) 
under  the  Col  de  Frijta  to  stat.  Bardonneche  and  Turin  (see  Baedeker's 
N.  Italy). 

The  Road  from  Chamousset  to  Albertville  (diligence  daily, 
also  to  Annecy,  farther  on)  crosses  the  Isere  by  a  handsome  stone 
bridge  and  skirts  the  r.  bank  of  the  river,  which  here  runs 
through  an  artificial  channel.  Opposite  the  bridge,  to  the  E.  of 
the  small  town  of  St.  Pierre  d'Albigny,  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains on  the  r.  bank ,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Miolans^ 
which  belonged  to  the  Miolans  family  from  the  9th  to  the  16th 
cent.     It  was  afterwards   used  as  a  state-prison  by  the  dukes  of 

B^DEKEB,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  14 


210     BouU  50.  AI^BERTVILLE.  From  Oeneva 

Savoy,  and  was  destroyed  during  the  French  Revolution.  The 
walls  of  the  cells  are  still  cx)vered  with  the  names  of  the  prisoners. 
AlbertviUe  (lOSdO  (H6Ul  des  Balances),  a  small  town  with 
broad  streets  (popul.  1500),  formerly  called  I'HdpUal,  received 
its  present  name  in  1835  in  honour  of  King  Charles  Albert. 
On  the  opposite  mountain-spur  which  separates  the  valleys  of 
the  Is^re  and  the  Arly,  lies  the  strikingly  picturesque  village 
of  Conflans  (1178'),  with  its  green  overgrown  battlements,  sepa- 
rated from  Albertville  by  the  Arly,  which  flows  into  the  Isdre 
a  short  distance  below. 

Beyond  Albertville  tbe  diligence  from  Chamousset  continues  to  ascend 
the  valley  towards  the  S.E.  to  Mouiier  en  Tarentaite,  Road  thence  by 
Bourg  St.  Maurice  and  the  Petit  St.  Bernard  to  Pre  St.  Didier  and  Aosta, 
see  p.  233. 

The  road  to  Annecy  now  ascends  the  picturesque  valley  of 
the  Arly  J  which  opens  to  the  N.  To  the  1.,  on  an  abrupt  emi- 
nence above  the  road,  stands  the  church  of  Pcdud;  on  the  r.  the 
Doron  emerges  from  the  VallSe  de  Beaufort,  which  extends  E. 
towards  the  Col  de  Bonhomme  (p.  230).  At  Ugine  (1758') 
(Aitx  Bcdances;  Orande  Maison),  a  small ,  badly  built  town,  with 
3000  inhab. ,  cx)mmanded  by  the-  ruins  of  a  castle  on  the  N., 
the  road  quits  the  valley  of  the  Arly  and  enters  that  of  the 
Chaise  io  the  1. 

From  Ugine  to  8allanche$;  or  to  the  Baths  of  8t.  Oervais 
(25M.).  The  following  is  the  best  route  for  travellers  proceeding  from 
Geneva  to  Aix-les-Bains,  Chamlx^ry,  and  afterwards  to  Ghamouny.  Carriage- 
road  through  the  valley  of  the  Arly  to  (9  M.)  Flumet  (3036')  (Poste) ,  a 
market-town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arondine ,  which  descends  to  the  Arly 
from  a  lateral  valley  on  the  1.  On  a  rock  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  the 
ancient  barons  of  Faucigny.  Flumet  is  on  the  frontier  of  the  D^parte- 
nient  des  Hautes-Alpes.  Travellers  from  Chamouny  undergo  custom-house 
formalities  here,  as  the  Hautes  Alpes  are  exempt  from  French  imposts.  Then 
(6  M.)  M^give  (Soleil),  1  M.  beyond  which  a  path  to  the  (2i|2  hrs.)  Bathjf 
of  St.  Oervais  (p.  213)  diverges  to  the  r.,  effecting  a  considerable  saving  to 
pedestrians  proceeding  to  Chamouny.  Kear  Combloux.,  as  the  road  descends 
to  Sallanches,  a  magnificent  Alpine  *view  is  eiyoyed:  opposite  the  spec- 
tator rise  the  Aiguilles  de  Varens  (8956'),  to  the  1.  the  valley  of  the  Arve 
is  visible  as  far  as  Magland  (p.  213) ,  to  the  r.  rises  the  entire  Mont 
Blanc  chain,  with  its  numerous  peaks  and  glaciers,  including  the  summit^ 
below  lies  Sallanches  and  the  bridge  over  the  Arve  to  St.  Martin.  Sal- 
lanches, see  p.  213. 

At  Ugine  the  culture  of  the  vine  begins  on  the  lower  slopes 
of  the  mountains  facing  the  S.  Beyond  Marlens  the  road  quits 
the  valley  of  the  Chaise,  and  crosses  the  hardly  perceptible 
watershed  between  the  Chaise  and  the  Eau  Morte,  by  the  side  of 
which  the  road  now  descends.  Above  Faverges  (1925')  (Poste) 
rises  a  conspicuous  old  castle,  6  M.  beyond  which  the  traveller 
reaches  the  S.  end  of  the  Lac  d'Anneey  (1463'),  9  M.  long 
(steamboat  three  times  daily  to  Annecy  in  II/4  hr. ,  pleasant  jour- 
ney). The  high  road  skirts  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake,  affording 
charming  views.  To  the  r.  rise  the  grotesque  rocky  pinnacles 
of  Mont  Toumette  (77G9').     On  a  promontory  extending  far  into 


to  Chamhery.  ANNECY.  50.  Route.      211 

the  lake  stands  the  prettily  situated  Ch&teau  Duing  (1476'), 
which  the  road  passes,  a  favourite  point  for  excursions  from 
Annecy.  On  the  opposite  bank  lies  Talloires  (1433'),  the  birth- 
place of  the  chemist  Berthollet,  and  a  little  farther  N. ,  on  the 
hill  above  the  village  of  Menthon  is  the  chateau  of  that  name 
(1873'),  the  birthplace  of  St.  Bernard. 

Annecy  (1509')  (*H6tel  Verdun,  de  Oeneve,  both  near  the  lake, 
R.  2,  D.  3,  A.  ^2  ^^'i  AngUterte;  Aigle)  is  a  picturesque,  old- 
fashioned  town  (j>op.  9000)  with  linen  manufactories.  In  the 
12th  cent,  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Genevois,  and  was 
named  Anneeiacum  Novum ,  to  distinguish  it  from  Anneciacum 
Vetusj  which  lay  in  the  neighbourhood  to  ^he  N.E. ,  on  the 
slope  of  a  beautiful  hill,  where  numerous  Roman  relics  have 
been  found.  The  lofty  old  Chateau  of  the  Genevois  -  Nemours 
family  is  now  a  barrack.  The  Gothic  Cathedral,  with  its  modern 
tower,  and  the  ancient  episcopal  palace  deserve  mention.  In 
the  modern  church  of  St.  Francois  reposes  St.  Francis  de  Sales 
(Bishop  of  Geneva ,  d.  1622).  The  avenue  on  the  lake  affords  a 
pleasant  walk  and  picturesque  view.  Near  the  town,  shaded  by 
trees,  is  a  bronze  statue  of  the  eminent  chemist  Berthollet  (d. 
1822) ,  near  which  is  the  modern  Hdtel  de  Ville ,  with  a  hand- 
some fountain.  Annecy,  with  its  delightful  environs ,  is  recom- 
mended as  a  pleasant  and  not  expensive  resting-place. 

From  Annecy  to  Geneva  (26  M.)  diligence  in  4^2  ^rs., 
railway  projected.  About  1^2  M.  from  Annecy  the  road  crosses 
the  Fier  by  a  handsome  stone  bridge ,  and  ascends  the  Mont  dea 
Bomes.  Several  chateaux  lie  on  the  hill  to  the  1. ;  fine  retrospect 
of  Annecy  and  its  environs.  The  road  now  traverses  a  pictu- 
resque ,  undulating  district ,  and  crosses  the  "Tont  de  la  Caille) 
or  Pont  Charles  Albert,  a  suspension-bridge  constructed  in  1839, 
227  yds.  long  and  700'  above  the  river,  spanning  the  Vases,  and 
thus  avoiding  the  long  circuit  described  by  the  old  road.  Far 
below,  in  the  ravine  to  the  1.  lies  a  small  sulphur  bath  (unpre- 
tending but  good),  to  which  paths  descend  on  both  sides  of  the 
bridge.  (Travellers  from  Geneva  to  Annecy  are  subjected  to 
French  custom-house  formalities  near  this  bridge.) 

Cruseilles  (2589'),  a  small  town  (pop.  1300)  with  the  ruins 
of  an  old  castle,  lies  at  the  S.base  of  Mont  Saleve.  The  road 
skirts  the  mountain,  high  above  the  picturesque  landscape  which 
stretches  to  the  1. ;  in  the  distance  to  the  W.  rises  Mont  Vouache 
(3444',  p.  207).  The  pass  (2106')  between  Mont  Sion  (2330') 
and  Saleve  (p.  186)  is  now  ascended ,  beyond  which  a  charming 
prospect  is  obtained  as  the  road  descends:  to  the  r.  rises  Mont 
Saleve,  in  front  lies  the  rich  plain  of  Geneva  with  the  town, 
lake,  and  Jura  chain. 

St.  Julien  (1538')  is  the  frontier  town  of  Savoy.  Carouge 
(1260')  (Balance ;  ^u  de  Savoie),  the  Swiss  frontier  town ,  once 

14* 


212     RouU  61.  ANNEMASSE. 

threatened  to  become  a  rival  of  Geneva.  In  1780  King  Victor 
Amadens  III.  of  Savoy  attracted  a  number  of  workmen  from  Ge- 
neva hither,  by  offers  of  superior  advantages ;  but  his  plan  was 
frustrated  by  the  union  of  the  town  with  France  in  1792,  and 
subsequently  with  Geneva  in  1816.  Tramway  from  Carouge  to 
Geneva  10  c.  (p.  178). 

The  road  crosses  the  Aive  by  a  bridge  constructed  by  Napo- 
leon I. ,  and  reaches 

Geneya  (see  p.  177). 

51.     From  Oeneva  to  Chamouny. 

Distance  49i|2  M. ':  Bonneville  15,  Cluses  24,  Sallanches  33  M.,  thence 
to  Chamouny  161(2  M.  more.  The  road  is  uninteresting  as  far  as  Bonne-, 
ville  ( p.  214),  beyond  which  the  scenery  becomes  more  and  more  attrac- 
tive. Good  walkers  should  take  the  diligence  only  as  far  as  St.  Gervais- 
les-Bains  (p.  213),  where  it  arrives  about  1  p.  m.,  and  walk  thence  over 
the  Col  de  la  Forclaz  (p.  214). 

Dilig«nce  to  St.  Gervais  in  5i|s  hrs.,  to  Chamouny  in  7i|s  hrs.  The 
return -journey  to  Sallanches  occupies  2^\\  hre.,  and  from  Sallanches  to 
Geneva  4  hrs.  only.  Coupd  25,  ordinary  seats  inside,  or  on  the  banquette 
outside  21  fr.  —  Excursion  •  tickets  are  issued  from  Geneva  to  Chamouny 
and  back  by  Martigny  (R.  53  or  R.  54)  and  Bouveret  (RR.  48,  49),  or  vice 
versa.  Second  class  tickets  entitle  ladies  only  to  a  mule  between  Cha- 
mouny and  Martigny.  These  tickets,  however,  effect  little  or  no  saving. 
Those  who  purchase  them  should  be  satisfied  as  to  the  respectability  of 
the  agent  who  ofiers  them  for  sale.  —  In  the  he^bt  of  summer  seats  in 
the  diligence  should  be  secured  two  or  three  days  in  advance.  Route  by 
Samoens  and  Sixt,  see  p.  221. 

Carrias^s  (p.  178).  The  ordinary  charge  for  a  one-horse  carriage  from 
Geneva  to  St.  Martin  or  Sallanches  is  90  fr.,  thence  to  Chamouny  15  fr.,  but 
of  late  years  the  travellers  have  sometimes  been  charged  60  fr.  to  St.  Martin 
(including  20  fr.  for  the  return -journey  on  the  following  day)j  and  from 
St.  Martin  to  Chamouny  40  fr.  (including  15  fr.  for  thg  return -journey  on 
the  following  day),  t.  e.  for  the  whole  journey  to  Chamouny  the  exorbitant 
sum  of  100  fr.,  with  5  fr.  additional  for  the  driver.  —  Those  who  re- 
turn to  Geneva  by  a  hired  conveyance  should  make  a  previous  bargain 
with  the  driver  for  the  whole  journey. 

The  road  to  Bonneville  traverses  the  new  suburbs,  passing 
villas  and  well-kept  grounds  in  almost  uninterrupted  succession 
as  far  as  the  large  village  of  Chtee  (13550.  The  Foron  separa- 
tes Geneva  from  Savoy.  Annemaise  (1384'),  38/4  M.  from  Ge- 
neva, is  the  first  French  village  (no  examination  of  luggage,  as  the 
DcJpartement  des  Hautes  Alpes  is  exempt  from  imposts).  Beyond 
the  village ,  in  the  distance  to  the  r. ,  rises  the  chateau  of 
Etrambi^rCj  with  its  four  towers,  at  the  base  of  the  Petit-SalevCy 
and  beyond  it  Mornex  (p.  186)  becomes  visible.  The  road  ap- 
proaches the  Arve,  and  crosses  the  Menoge  by  a  handsome  bridge. 

The  scenery  becomes  more  picturesque.  In  the  back-ground 
the  pyramid  of  the  Mole  (6125')  bounds  the  landscape.  Beyond 
Nangy,  on  a  fir-clad  knoll,  stands  the  Chdteau  de  Pierre  y  the 
property  of  an  Englishman.  Near  ContamineB  snr  Arve  (1361 '), 
to  the  1.  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  lies  Chdteau  Villy ;  beyond  the 
village,    on   a   rocky   height,    are   the    two  ruined  towers  of  the  < 


SALLANCHES.  51.  RouU.      213 

ancient   castle   of  Faucigny ,    from    which  the   province   derives 
its  name. 

15  M.  Bonneville  (1460'}  (Couronne;  Balance) j  a  small  town 
with  2127  inhab. ,  the  capital  of  the  province,  is  picturesquely 
situated  in  a  fertile  valley,  flanked  by  the  rugged  limestone  rocks  of 
the  Bre%on  (6142')  on  the  r.,  and  the  slopes  of  the  Mole  on  the  1. 
A  handsome  bridge  crosses  the  Arve  here ,  beyond  which  rises  a 
Monument y  100'  high,  to  King  Charles  Felix  of  Sardinia. 

The  road  now  traverses  flat  meadow-land,  which  is  frequently 
inundated,  and  then  enters  a  broad  and  fertile  valley  bounded 
by  lofty  mountains.  Opposite  Vougy  the  Qiffre  falls  into  the  Arve, 
on  its  r.  bank.  Scioruiiery  a  village  where  horses  are  changed, 
lies  at  the  entrance  to  the  wild  Reposoir  valley.  On  the  hill  to 
the  1.^  which  is  crossed  by  a  road  to  Tanninges  (p.  221),  stands 
the  castle  of  ChdtiUon  (view).     The  road  crosses  the  Arve. 

9M.  Clnses  (1607')  (^B6tel  des  Balances y  dear;  Union,  at 
the  farther  end  of  the  village),  a  small  town,  rebuilt  since  a 
fire  in  1844,  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  watchmakers.  To  the  1. 
near  the  entrance  is  an  Ecole  (fHorlogerie,  Beyond  Balme  (1624'), 
1^2  M.  from  Cluses,  two  cannons  planted  by  a  roadside  inn 
awaken  the  echoes  for  a  fee  of  1  fr.  In  the  precipitous  bluish- 
yellow  limestone  rock  to  the  1. ,  800'  above  the  bank  of  the  river, 
is  the  entrance  to  a  stalactite-grotto,  which  is  difficult  of  access 
and  hardly  worth  visiting  (3  fr.  each  pers.). 

Near  Hagland  a  large  stream  issuing  from  the  rocks  by  the 
road-side  was  supposed  by  Saussure  to  descend  from  the  small 
Lmc  de  Flaine  (4695'),  on  the  hill  above.  Fine  echo  here.  On 
the  1.  rise  the  bold  precipices  of  the  Aiguilles  de  Varens  (8960'). 
The  conspicuous  cascade  of  Arpenaz,  which  after  rain  assumes 
imposing  dimensions,  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  Staubbach. 

The  valley  now  expands.  The  road  traverses  a  district  de- 
vastated by  torrents  of  mud  and  detritus.  At  the  village  of 
St.  Martin  (Hdtel  du  Montblanc)  the  dazzling  peaks  of  Mont  Blanc 
suddenly  become  visible.  Its  stupendous  dimensions  seem  to  an- 
nihilate the  intervening  space ,  which  is  no  less  than  12  M.  in  a 
straight  line.  Above  the  broad  bed  of  the  Arve,  in  the  same  di- 
rection, rises  Mont  Forclaz  (see  below),  with  its  fir -clad  slopes. 
Beyond  it  tower  the  AiguiUes  du  Oouter  (12,707')  and  the  D6me 
du  Oouter  (14,209').     A  handsome  bridge  crosses  the  Arve  to 

9  M.  StUlancheB  (1791')  (Bellevue;  Chalet  Suisse),  a  small 
town  with  1981  inhab.,  rebuilt  since  a  fire  in  1840,  where  the 
road  divides.  The  old  road  leads  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Arve 
from  St.  Martin  (see  above)  to  Chhde  and  (9  M.)  Servoz,  while 
the  new  road  continues  to  follow  the  1.  bank.  Beyond  (3  M.) 
Fayel  (Hotel  des  Alpes)  the  latter  road  crosses  the  Bon-Nant, 
and  about  i/o  M.  farther  reaches 

3t/.2  M.  St.  GervaiB-lea-Bains   (2066')  (*Hdtel)y   a  small,  but 


214      Route  51.  ST.  GERVAIS. 

much  frequented  watering-place  with  sulphur-springs ,  situated 
in  the  wooded  ravine  of  the  Bon-Nant  (all  mountain  streams 
are  termed  *Nant'  in  Savoy) ,  which  forms  a  picturesque  water- 
fall at  the  back  of  the  baths ,  termed  ^La  Cascade  de  Crepin' 
(diligence  passengers  dine  here). 

The  Yillkge  of  St.  Oerrais  (2657')  (Hdtel  du  Mont  Jolt,  *du  Montblanc, 
de  Oeneve)  lies  on  the  road  to  Contamines  (p.  229)  ddCK  higher  than  the 
baths. 

Pedestrians  may  quit  the  diligence  at  St.  Gervais  and  walk  over 
the  Col  de  la  Fordas  (5105'),  a  pass  between  the  THe  Noire  (dSCO',  not 
to  be  confounded  with  the  Tete  Noire  between  Chamouny  and  Martigny) 
and  the  Prarion  (6460'),  direct  to  Le  Fouilly  and  Les  Ouches  in  6—7  hrs.  \ 
guide  desirable,  6  fr.  (comp.  map). 

From  the  Pont  du  Bon-Nant  a  road  crosses  the  Arve  to  Chede 
and  Servoz  (see  above).  The  new  high  road  to  Chamouny  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Arve  skirts  the  foot  of  the  Tete-Noire  (see 
abeve),  and,  gradually  ascending,  traverses^  the  (IV2  ^r.)  Tunnel 
of  Chhtelard  (near  the  entrance  a  small  restaurant);  to  the  1. 
a  pretty  view  of  the  valley  of  Servoz.  The  route  then  proceeds 
by  Le  Lac  to  the  H6M,  des  Montets,  where  the  road  from  Servoz 
is  joined.  The  old  Chamouny  road  ascends  thence  Les  Montets y 
a  rocky  ridge  separating  the  lower  from  the  upper  region  of  the 
valley,  and  passes  the  hamlets  of  Les  Chavants,  Le  FouiUy^  Les 
Trubots ,  and  Les  Oucties ,  affording  a  striking  survey  of  Mont 
Blanc.  The  new  road  traverses  the  picturesque  rocky  defile  of 
the  impetuous  Arve,  crossing  to  the  r.  bank  by  the  Pont  de 
Marie  below  the  hamlet  of  Le  Fouilly,  and  to  1.  again  below  Les 
Ouches  near  the  mouth  of  the  Nant  de  la  Gria. 

The  glaciers  gradually  become  visible,  but  the  mind  can 
hardly  at  first  comprehend  the  vastness  of  their  proportions  ow- 
ing to  the  stupendous  dimensions  of  the  mountains  in  which 
they  are  framed.  The  first  are  the  Olaciers  de  Oria  and  de 
Taconay;  then  the  Glacier  des  Bossons  near  the  village  of  that 
name ,  with  its  lofty  pyramids  of  blue  ice ,  which ,  as  it  extends 
farthest  into  the  valley,  is  apparently  the  most  extensive.  In 
the  distance  is  the  Glacier  des  Bois^  the  ofl'shoot  of  the  Mer  3e 
Glace. 

I6V2  M.  ChamoTmy  (3445'j. 

52.     Chamoany  and  its  Environs. 

Hotels.  ^Hotels  Imperial,  Royal,  Union,  Anqlbtkbre  and  Londres, 
CouRONNE,  and  Palais  »e  Cristal  all  belong  to  a  company^  *H6tel  du 
MoNTBLANC.  Charges  in  all :  R.  from  2,  L.  >|2,  A.  1,  B.  lija — 2,  table  d'*hdtc 
from  5  to  8  p.  m.  4  fr.  *H6tkl  Pension  Codttet,  new,  R.  2 — 3,  B.  1»J4, 
D.  3>|2  fr.  —  H6tkl  de  France,  moderate,  R,  2,  B.  1»|4»  pension  5  fr. ;  H6- 
TEA  DES  Alpes^  R.  from  iJJz,  D.  4  fr.  —  Hotel  de  la  Paix,  well  spoken 
of  ^  AtrS  IfinrANOES  ;  A  la  Reunion  des  Amis  ^  all  unpretending.  —  It  should 
be  observed  that  as  much  is  usually  charged  for  a  slight  meal  as  for  the 
table  d'hote  dinner.  —  Ca/4  de  la  Terrctsse,  near  the  bridge. 

Guides.  A  guide  is  unnecessary  for  the  ordinary  excursions  to  the 
Montanvert  and  the  FUg^re.    The  paths  are  so  minutely  described  in   the 


CHAMOUNY. 


52.  RouU.      215 


following  pages  that  they  can  hardly  be  mistaken,  and  they  are  so  much 
frequented  that  opportunities  of  making  iniiuiries  constantly  recur.  Should 
a  guide  be  considered  necessary  for  the  Chapeau ,  one  may  be  engaged  at 
Les  Tines,  where  a  boy  may  be  hired  for  1—2  fr.  The  following  extract 
is  made  from  the  '■  Riglement  et  Tarif  des  Guides  de  Chamonix\  of  8th 
March,  1862.  Travellers  are  provided  with  guides  by  the  Guide  Che/^  who 
is  bound  to  employ  each  in  turn,  the  traveller  having  no  choice  except  in 
four  cases:  (1).  When  a  course  extraordinaire  (see  below)  is  contemplated*, 
(2).  When  an  excursion  is  made  for  scientific  purposes*,  (3).  When  the 
traveller  speaks  no  French ,  and  the  guide  is  unacquainted  with  the 
language  of  the  traveller;  (4).  When  travellers  have  previously  employed 
a  certain  guide  and  desire  to  re-engage  the  same,  or  when  ladies  alone 
wish  to  engage  a  particular  guide.  —  Each  guide  must  be  furnished 
with  a  badge,  with  his  number  and  the  words:  '•Compagnie  des  Guides  de 
Chamonix\  Hotel-keepers,  waiters,  etc.  are  forbidden  to  recommend  par- 
ticular guides.  A  guide  who  loses  his  way  in  average  weather  is  ex- 
cluded from  the  *  compagnie".  Complaints  to  be  made  to  the  ^Ouide  Chef. 
The  excursions  are  divided  iuto  Courses  Ordinaires  and  Courses  Extra- 
ordinaires.  ' 


Courses  Ordinaires : 

Glacier  des  Bossons  3  fr.,  ditto 
iocl.  Cascades  du  Dard  and 
du  Pelerin 4>(2fr. 

Source  de  TArveyron  3^  ditto 
incl.  Hontanvert ,  Her  de 
Glace,  Mauvais  Pas,  and 
Chapeau 8  fr. 

Flogere  and  Source  de  TAr- 
veyron 6  fr. 

Prevent  by  Plampraz  8,  by 
the  Fle'gere  and  down  by 
Plampras 10  fr. 

Hontanvert,  Mer  de  Glace, 
Chapeau ,  and  '  Flegerc  in 
one  day 12  fr. 

Pierre  de  TEchelle    .     .     .     .     10  fr. 

Jardin,  back  by  the  Cliapeau     12  fr. 

Col  de  Balme,  incl.  Cascades 
de  Barberine  and  de  Bcrard 
in  one  day  9,  in  two  days   .     12  fr. 

Buet  and  down  to  Sixt,  incl. 
return-fee,  in  one  day  23,  in 
two  days     .    .    .    .  *  .    .     .    28  fr. 


Hartigny  by  the  Col  de  Balme 
or  Tdte  Noire  (incl.  return- 
fee)    12  fr. 

Sixt  by  the  Brevcnt  and  Col 
d'Anteme  in  one  day  (incl. 
return-fee) 18  fr. 

Sixt  by  Servoz  and  Col  d^An- 
terne 16  fr. 

Pavilion  de  Bellevue,   Col  de 

Voza  or  Prarion     ....      6  fr. 

Contamines  by  the  Col  du 
Tricot 15  fr. 

Courses  Exiraordinaires : 

Mont  Blanc 100  fr. 

Grands  Mulcts  and  back  in  one 
day  15,  in  two  days    .    .    .    25  fr. 

Courmayeur  by  the  Col  du 
Geant 50  fr. 

Col  du  Tour  and  back  ...    20  fr. 

Glacier  -  excursions  on  the 
Mont  Blanc  chain ,  above 
the  zone  of  vegetation,  per 
diem 10  fr. 


The  guides  are  bound  on  the  courses  ordinaires  to  carry  baggage  of 
12  kilogr.  (25  Eng.  lbs.)  in  weight;  on  the  courses  extraordinaires,  7  kilogr. 
(14  lbs.)  only. 

Guides  from  Martigny  arc  prohibited  from  acting  as  such  at  Chamouny ; 
but  the  prohibition  does  not  extend  to  guides  from  German  Switzerland 
and  Courmayeur.  Most  of  the  Chamouny  guides  arc  well-informed  and 
respectable.  The  following  are  recommended  for  difficult  expeditions : 
Jean  Bapt.  CroSy  Franf.  Jos.^  Henri  and  Michel  Devovasoud^  Franf.  Cachal^ 
B.  Simon  C  Benoni'')^  M.  DvcroSy  Michel  and  Fred.  Papoty  M.  A.  TairraZy 
M.  Charlety  J.  Balmaty  J.  M.  Couttei,  etc. 

Mules.  With  the  exception  of  the  excursion  to  the  Mon  tan  vert  and 
Chapeau  (9fr. ),  and  to  the  Montanvcrt  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the 
Jardin,  and  returning  to  Chamouny  in  the  evening  (7  fr.),  the  same  charges 
are  made  as  for  the  ^courses  ordinaires'*  of  the  guides. 

The  Collection  of  Pictures  of  M.  Loppiy  a  talented  painter  of  Alpine 
scenery,  situated  at  the  back  of  the  Hotel  Royal,  on  the  path  to  the 
Montanvert,  merits  a  visit.     Admission  gratis. 

Xngliah  Church  Service  during  the  season. 


216     RouU  52.  CHAMOUNY. 

Travellers  intending  to  spend  one  day  only  at  Chamouny,  should  ascend 
the  Montanvert  (p.  217)  in  the  morning  (2  lirs.)?  cross  the  Mer  de  Glace 
(p.  217)  to  the  Ghapeau  (p.  218)  (li|4  hr.),  descend  to  Les  Tines  (p.  218) 
(3|4  hr.),  and  from  ( ija  hr.)  Les  Praz  (p.  218)  ascend  the  Flegere  (p.  218) 
(2>|2  hrs.)i  and  descend  in  l'|4  hr.  Early  in  the  morning  the  path  to  Mon- 
tanvert is  in  the  shade,  in  the  afternoon  that  to  the  Fldgere  is  at  least 
partly  so,  and  by  this  arrangement  the  traveller  reaches  the  FliSgere  at 
the  time  most  favourable  for  observing  Mont  Blanc.  If  time  and  strength 
permit,  the  traveller  may  visit  the  Source  of  the  Arveyron  (p.  219,  ^jz  hr. 
from  Les  Praz,  1  hr.  from  Chamouny),  on  his  return  'from  the  Flegere. 
For  this  excursion  a  guide  is  only  necessary  across  the  Mer  de  Glace  (see 
p.  217).  Those  who  ride  must  send  their  mules  round  from  Montanvert  to 
Les  Tines  or  the  Chapeau  to  meet  them.  The  excursioA  to  the  Fl^ere 
alone  occupies  about  5  hrs.  (ascent  2i|2,  rest  ^jj  hr.,  descent  ls|4  hr.),  to 
the  Montanvert  or  the  Chapeau  and  the  Source  of  the  Arveyron  also  5  hrs. 
—  It  is,  however,  needless  to  say  that  one  day  cannot  possibly  suffice  for 
the  thorough  appreciation  and  enjoyment  of  these  excursions,  which,  more- 
over,  will  somewhat  severely  tax  the  ftrength  of  the  ordinary  traveller. 
Those  who  come  from  the  E.,  and  have  spent  the  night  at  Argentiere, 
should  leave  the  road  near  Lavancher  (p.  223)  and  proceed  by  way  of  the 
Chapeau,  the  Mer  de  Glace,  and  Montanvert  to  Chamouny.  Those  who 
have  spent  the  night  at  the  Col  de  Balme  (p.  226)  or  TSte  Noire  (p.  224), 
and  arrive  at  Chamouny  about  noon,  may  quit  the  road  htfore  Lavancher 
is  reached,  and  proceed  by  La  Joux  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Arve  to  the 
Fl«5gere  (comp.  p.  223). 

After  the  Montanvert,  an  excursion  to  the  Glacier  des  Botsons  (p.  220) 
is  a  pleasant  mode  of  spending  a  cloudy  •  afternoon ,  when  the  views 
from  the  heights  are  concealed.  There  and  back  3  hrs. :  follow  the  old 
road  to  the  Pont  de  PirralotaZj  and  immediately  beyond  it  diverge  to  the 
1.  to  the  '  Hdtel  des  Pyramided''  (a  chalet  visible  from  a  long  distance);  then 
cross  the  glacier  (with  guide).  A  visit  to  the  ice  grotto  hewn  in  the  glacier 
to  a  depth  of  80  yds.  is  interesting  and  free  from  danger.  Then  return 
across  the  moraine  and  through  a  wild  valley  with  several  waterfalls - 
(Cascade  des  Pilerins).  —  The  Jardin  (p.  218),  9 — 10  hrs.  there  and  back, 
occupies  an  entire  day.  Those  who  wish  to  economise  their  strength,  or 
intend  to  descend  by  the  Chapeau  to  Argenti^re,  or  farther,  should  spend 
the  night  on  the  Montanvert.  —  The  ascent  of  the  BHvent  (p.  219)  requires 
6 — 1  hrs.  from  Chamouny  (there  and  back),  ascent  or  descent  by  the  FWgere 
2  hrs.  more. 

The  VaUey  of  Chamouny  (3445'),  15  M.  long,  3/^  m.  wide, 
is  watered  by  the  Arve^  and  stretches  in  a  direct  line  from 
N.E.  to  S.W.  towards  Les  Ouches  (p.  228).  It  is  bounded  on 
the  S.W.  by  the  chain  of  Mont  Blanc,  with  its  gigantic  ice- 
cataracts,  the  Olacier  du  Tour,  d' Argentihre ,  des  Bois  (Mer  de 
Olace),  and  des  Bossons;  on  the  N.W.  by  the  AiguiUes  Rouges 
and  the  Brivent. 

A  Benedictine  priory  first  brought  the  valley  into  cultivation  at  the 
beginning  of  the  12th  cent.,  but  its  reputation  was  so  bad  at  that  period 
that  travellers  came  armed,  and  spent  the  night  in  tents,  strictly  guarded, 
rather  than  trust  themselves  under  the  roofs  of  the  lawless  inhabitants. 
The  sobriquet  of  Les  Montagnes  Maudiies  acted  as  a  ban  upon  the  district. 
On  one  occasion  8t.  Francis  de  Sales^  Bishop  of  Geneva  (1602  to  1622),  visited 
the  then  pathless  wilds  on  foot,  which  was  considered  an  act  of  the  utmost 
temerity.  The  valley  became  better  known  in  1740,  when  the  celebrated 
traveller  Pococke,  and  another  Englishman  named  Wyndham  visited  and 
explored  it  in  all  directions,  and  published  the  result  of  their  observations 
in  the  Mercure  de  Suisse.  An  impulse  was  thus  given  to  the  curiosity  and 
enterprise  of  the  public,  which  was  still  further  stimulated  by  the  publi* 
cations  of  the  Gcnevese  naturalists  de  Saussure,  de  Luc,  Bourrit,  Pictet, 
and  others.    Since  that  time  Chamouny,  like  the  Bernese  Oberland  (R.  27)^ 


GHAMOUNY.  52,  Route.     217 

has  become  a  great  central  point  of  attraction  for  travellers,  especially 
English,  Americans,  and  French,  and  is  visited  by  upwards  of  15,000 
strangers  annually.  It  is  inferior  to  the  Bernese  Oberland  in  picturesqne- 
ness  of  scenery,  but  superior  in  the  grandeur  of  its  glaciers  \  in  the  latter 
respect  Zermatt  (R.  64)  alone  can  vie  with  Chamouny. 

The  *Xo]itaiLyert,  or  Montenvera  (6302')  (ascent  2,  descent 
l*/4  hrs.),  an  eminence  opposite  the  Fl^gfere,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  valley,  is  visited  solely  for  the  view  it  afTords  of  the  immense 
sea  of  ice  which  fills  the  highest  gorges  of  the  chain  of  Mont 
Blanc  in  three  branches  (the  Glacier  du  Oeant  or  du  Taculy 
Glacier  de  Lechaud,  and  Glacier  de  Talefre)y  and,  at  length 
uniting  in  the  form  of  a  huge  stream  of  ice  about  12  M.  long 
and  1 — 4  M.  wide,  descends  into  the  valley  of  Chamouny.  The 
upper  part  of  this  stream  is  termed  the  Mer  de  Glace  y  the  lower 
the  ^Glacier  de»  Bois.  From  Montanvert  the  motionless  billows, 
as  they  may  be  termed,  of  the  Mer  de  Glace  are  visible  for  a 
distance  of  6  M.,  but  the  huge  pinnacles  of  the  Glacier  des  Bois 
are  concealed  from  view.  The  footpath  from  Chamouny  passes 
the  Hotel  de  TUnion ,  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Arve,  and 
runs  diagonally  across  the  meadows  .(the  middle  track  preferable) 
to  a  house  (^4  hr.),  where  it  tuirns  to  the  r.  towards  the  moun- 
tain. The  broad  and  easy  bridle-path  ascends  from  the  hamlet 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  to  which  a  carriage-road 
leads  past  the  English  Church  on  the  1.  bank  in  a  straight 
direction  up  the  valley.  It  then  traverses  a  pine-forest,  some- 
what steep  at  places,  passing  numerous  tracks  of  avalanches. 
Halfway,  where  the  footpath  and  bridle-path  unite,  is  the 
CaiUet,  a  spring  of  fresh  water,  formerly  shaded  by  trees,  which 
have  been  swept  away  by  avalanches  (refreshments  at  a  hut). 
The  path  turns  to  the  r.  about  ^{4  hr.  farther,  and  the  *Mer 
de  Glace  and   the   mountains   enclosing  it  are   now  immediately 

opposite  to  the  spectator. 

The  surface  of  the  Mer  de  Glace,  de  Saussure  observes,  '  resembles 
a  sea  suddenly  frozen ,  not  during  a  tempest ,  but  when  the  wind  has 
subsided,  and  the  waves,  although  still  high,  have  become  blunted  and 
rounded.  These  great  waves  are  nearly  parallel  to  the  length  of  the 
glacier,  and  are  intersected  by  transverse  crevasses,  the  interior  of  which 
appears  blue,  while  the  ice  is  white  on  the  surface". 

In  1779  Goethe  visited  this  magnificent  scene.  He  mentions 
in  his  journal  the  fact  of  an  Englishman  named  Blair  having 
erected  a  hut  upon  the  spot,  from  which  to  survey  the  sea  of 
ice.  This  hut  still  exists,  and  afl'ords  accommodation  for  the 
guides.  Adjoining  it  is  a  tolerable  Inn  (250'  above  the  glacier). 
The  path  descending  directly  to  the  Source  of  the  Arveyron 
(p.  219)  is  precipitous  and  unsuitable  for  ladies. 

From  Montanvert  it  is  usual  to  cross  the  ^Mer  de  Olaee  (in 
11/4  hr.)  to  the  Chapeau  (see  below),  which  lies  opposite.  The 
passage  of  the  glacier  (^2  ^^-j  guide  2  fr.,  to  the  Chapeau  4  fr.), 
practicable  even  for  ladies,  is  annually  rendered  easy  and  safe 
by  means  of  steps  hewn   in   the  ice.     The  services  of  a  guide 


218     Route  52.  CHAMOUNY.  FUghre. 

are,  however,  desirable,  as  the  route  varies  with  the  direction 
of  the  crevasses,  which  are  always  changing  their  form.  The  [  ^ 
Mauvais  PaSf  where  for  a  short  distance  the  path  is  hewn  in 
the  rock  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  glacier  in  the  form  of  steps, 
near  the  Chapeau ,  was  formerly  a  giddy  and  hazardous  point , 
but  the  iron  rods  now  attached  to  the  rocks  afford  perfect  security. 
The  excursion  is  easier  in  the  reverse  direction  (from  the  Chapeau 
to  Montanvert),  but  a  guide  for  the  passage  of  the  N.  moraine 
to  the  Mer  de  Glace  is  indispensable. 

The  *Chapeaa  (5082')  (auberge),  a  limestone  precipice  on  the 
N.E.  side  of  the  glacier,  nearly  opposite  the  Montanvert ,  at  the 
base  of  the  Aiguilles  du  Bockard ,  is  considerably  lower  than  the 
Montanvert,  but  commands  line  views  of  the  Aiguilles  de  Charmox 
(11,293')  and  de  Blaiti^re  (11,591')  as  far  as  Mont  Blanc,  the 
beautiful  Glacier  des  Bois  with  its  innumerable  ice-pinnacles,  and 
the  valley  of  Ohamouny  below.  The  path  from  Chamouny  leaves 
the  carriage-road  near  (3  M.)  Les  Tines  (p.  223),  while  that  from 
Argentifere  quits  the  road  near  (2^4  M.)  Lavancher  (p.  223); 
these  paths,  which  can  hardly  be  mistaken,  ascend,  traversing 
old  moraines ,  in  1  hr.  to  the  inn. 

The  Jardin  (9143';  guide  necessary,  12  fr.)  is  a  triangular 
rock  rising  from  the  midst  of  the  Glacier  de  Talhfre,  and  walled 
in  by  its  moraine  on  all  sides.  Around  a  spring  in  the  midst 
of  this  oasis  in  the  wilderness  of  ice,  several  species  of  flowers 
bloom  in  August.  From  the  Montanvert  or  the  Chapeau  the 
moraines  and  glacier  (Mer  de  Glace)  must  be  traversed  for 
21/2 — 3  hrs.  as  far  as  the  foot  of  the  Seracs  de  TaUfrCy  the 
precipitous  S.W.  slope  of  the  Glacier  de  Tal^fre  (or  the  traveller 
may  proceed  from  the  Chapeau  across  rocks  and  moraine,  without 
descending  to  the  glacier ,  but  ladies  should  not  attempt  this 
route).  Here  the  guides  formerly  turned  to  the  1. ,  and  skirted 
the  base  of  the  Couvercle  (8852')  and  the  Aiguille  du  Moine 
(11,214'),  but  they  now  prefer  to  ascend  the  moraine  to  the  r., 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Seracs  (8/4 hr.;  a  stone  hut  half-way- up). 
Finally  a  walk  of  25  min.  across  the  Talefre  Glacier  to  the  Jardin. 
This  excursion  affords  an  imposing  survey  of  the  icy  wildernesses 
of  the  Mont  Blanc  group,  and  although  somewhat  fatiguing,  is 
now  frequently  undertaken  by  ladies. 

The  *Flig^re  (5925')  (ascent  from  Chamouny  23/4 ;  descent  1^/4, 
or  including  a  visit  to  the  Source  of  the  Arveiron  2^2  hrs.),  an 
eminence  to  the  N.  of  Chamouny,  is  a  buttress  of  the  AiguUle 
de  la  Floria  (9488'),  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Aiguilles 
Rouges.  The  road  from  Chamouny  ascends  the  valley  to  (IV2  ^0 
Les  Praz  (p.  223)  and  crosses  the  Arve  by  a  bridge  (the  foot- 
path on  the  r.  bank  is  often  marshy ,  and  should  therefore  be 
avoided,  especially  as  the  saving  effected  is  slight).  In  the 
village  the  road  divides,  to  the  r.  to  the  Source  of  the  Arveyrou 


k 


BrSveni.  CHAMOUNY.  52.  Route.      219 

(IV2  M.),  to  the  1.  to  the  FMgere.  At  a  small  flr-wood  (V2  M.) 
quit  the  road  and  follow  the  path  to  the  1.,  which  recrosses  to 
the  T.  bank  (5  min.) ,  at  the  base  of  the  mountain ;  then  ascend 
the  barren  and  stony  slope  by  a  good  bridle-path.  After  3/4  hr. 
enter  the  wood  to  the  r.;  8  min.,  cross  the  Grand  Nant,  a 
mountain  torrent,  and  in  l*/4  hr.  more  the*  Croix  de  la  FUgtft 
(6260')  is  reached  (poor  inn,  high  charges).  The  *view  embraces 
the  entire  chain  of  Mont  Blanc,  from  the  Col  de  Balme  (the  inn 
on  which  is  clearly  discernible)  to  the  Glacier  des  Bossons,  which 
extends  into  the  valley  to  the  S. ;  Mont  Blanc  with  its  vast 
suow-lields  is  visible  from  summit  to  base.  From  no  point  of 
view  do  the  serrated  pinnacles  surrounding  the  AignilU  Verte 
(13,540')  appear  so  striking  as  from  here,  and  the  riven  peaks 
of  the  AiguiUes  Rouges  also  present  a  $>ingular  aspect.  A  great 
part  of  the  Olacier  des  Bois  (Met  de  Glace)  is  surveyed.  The 
view  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  by  evening  light  (comp. 
Panorama).  —  Travellers  approaching  Chamouny  from  Argentiore 
may  ascend  by  La  Joux  (p.  223)  to  Les  Ptis  Hauls  (guide  not  ab- 
solutely necessary),  and  walk  along  the  brow  of  the  hills  opposite 
the  Mont  Blanc  chain  in  the  direction  of  the  cross  on  the  FWg^re. 

The  descent  from  the  FMg^re  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
scarcely  occupies  1  hr.  After  the  Arve  is  crossed,  a  path  to 
the  1.,  before  the  village  of  Les  Praz  is  reached,  leads  by  the 
village  of  Les  Bois  and  a  flr-clad  moraine  of  the  Glacier  des 
Bois ,  in  ^/^  hr.  to  the  Source  of  the  ArveTTon,  which  here  issues 
from  the  Glacier  des  Bois  through  an  arch  of  ice  (illumination 
^2  ff  •) )  usually  closed  in  winter.  During  some  seasons  this  spot 
hardly  merits  a  visit.  It  is  dangerous  to  venture  under  the 
ice-arch ,  as  blocks  of  ice  frequently  become  detached.  In  1868 
a  young  English  lady  lost  her  life  in  this  manner.  On  the  road 
near  the  glacier  is  an  inn,  ^Au  Tourisie'-^  carriage  for  four  persons 
to  (3  M.)  Chamouny  5  fr. 

The  Brivent  (8284'),  the  $.  prolongation  of  the  Aiguilles 
Rouges  ,  affords  nearly  the  i^ame  view  as  the  FMg^re  (see  above) ; 
but  Mont  Blanc  is  here  disclosed  to  the  spectator  in  all  its  gran- 
deur ,  whilst  from  the  Flegere  the  Mer  de  Glace  and  the  Aiguille 
Verte  are  the  most  conspicuous  objects.  From  this  point  the 
direction  of  the  usual  route  to  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc  may 
be  distinctly  traced  ^  and  with  the  aid  of  a  telescope  the  Chalet  de 
la  Pierre  Pointue  (see  below),  and  the  two  stone  huts  on  the 
Grands  Mulets  (p.  222),  the  two  stations  for  spending  the  night, 
may  aUo  be  seen.  The  new  bridle-path  to  the  Br^vent  leaves  the 
village  on  the  W.,  and  passes  the  church  C-Chemin  Muletier  de 
Chamonix  h  8ixV).  In  2^2  ^rs.  the  chalets  of  Plan  Praz^  or 
Plambraz  (6772')  (Inn,  poor  and  dear)  are  reached.  From  this 
point  a  tolerable  path  to  the  1.  ascends  to  the  trigonometrical 
signal  on  the  summit  (1^2  hr.);  the  latter  portion,  ^ La  Cheminie\ 


220     RouU  52.  CHAMOUNY.  ^      SixU 

steep  and  stony.  Guide ,  not  necessary ,  but  agreeable  from  Plan 
Praz  onwards.  —  The  ascent  of  the  Br^vent  may  also  be  combined 
with  that  of  the  Flegere.  The  ^Route  du  Planpraz'  diverges  to 
the  r.  (S.W.)  from  the  FMgere  path,  about  20  min.  below  the 
Croix,  de  la  FMg^re ,  ■  and  leads  in  2  hrs.  to  the  chalets  of 
Plan  Praz,  which  are.  visible  from  the  FMgere.  At  places,  however, 
the  path  is  not  well  defined. 

The  ^Pavilion  de  la  Pierre  Pointue  (0722'),  another  favourite 
point,  is  reached  by  a  bridle-path  in  2^/4  hrs.  (mule  9  fr. ;  gqide 
unnecessary).  The  route  leads  from  Chamouny  along  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Arve,  past  the  hamlets  of  Le  Praz  Conduit  and  Les  Barats, 
through  the  ForU  des  TiaourSj  and  along  the  brow  of  the  hill 
to  the  1.  to  the  (50  min.)  Cascade  du  Dard.  It  crosses  the 
brook,  and  immediately  afterwards  the  Nant  des  PiU/rins  (p.  216), 
beyond  which  the  path  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  the 
Qlacier  des  BossonSy  while  that  to  the  Pierre  Pointue  zigzags 
upwards  through  wood  and  pastures  to  the  1.  to  the  (60  min.) 
ChaUt  de  la  Para  (5266')  and  the  (2  hr.)  ChaUt  de  la  PUrre  Pointue 
(Restaurant,  d^jedner  3,  D.  4  fr.),  on  the  margin  of  the  beautiful 
Glacier  des  Bossons.  Opposite,  apparently  close  to  the  spectator, 
rise  Mont  Blanc,  the  Dome  du  Gouter,  the  Aiguille  du  Gouter, 
and  other  huge  peaks.  Towards  the  N.  and  W.  the  view  is 
particularly  fine.  From  the  Pierre  Pointue  over  the  Qlacier  des 
Bossons  to  the  Orands  Mulets  (10,007')  31/2  hrs.,  not  without 
a  guide  (comp.  p.  222). 

From  Chamouny  to  Sixt  by  the  Col  du  Brivent  aud  the  Col  cTAn- 
terne  (21  M.)  in  9 — 10  hrs.-,  mule  18  fr.,  return-fee  included;  guide  (unne- 
cessary in  settled  weather)  18  fr.  The  route  is  by  the  well-defined  Chemin 
Mvletier  already  mentioned,  and  can  hardly  be  mistaken.  From  Chamouny 
to  the  chalets  of  Plan  Praz  (dear  auberge)  2^lt  hrs.,  thence  to  the  summit  of 
the  Col  du  Brevent  (8078')  1  hr.  \  then  down  a  slope  richly  clad  with  bilberry, 
raspberry,  and  many  other  plants,  into  the  valley  of  the  Dioza  (5413'),  which 
is  crossed  by  a  wooden  bridge  (l^j^  hr.).  [If  attended  by  a  guide,  the  traveller 
may  here  turn  to  the  r.  and  proceed  by  the  chalets  of  Silly  and  the  Col  de 
Salenton  (8277')  in  6— 6IJ2  hrs.  to  the  summit  of  the  Buet,  see  below.]  The 
path  to  the  Ool  d'Anteme  ascends  to  the  1.,  turning  afterwards  to  the  r. : 
2  hrs.,  summit  of  the  pass  (7428'),  whence  a  magnificent  retrospect  of  Mont 
Blanc  is  obtained.  Then  descend  by  the  (2  hrs.)  Chalets  des  Fonds  (milk), 
above  which  the  path  unites  with  the  usual  Mont  Buet  route.  The  pic- 
turesquely situated  house  which  here  overlooks  the  lower  part  of  the 
valley,  is  the  summer-residence  of  an  Englishman*  The  bridle-path  now 
•descends  the  picturesque  Vallde  des  Fonds^  watered  by  a  tributary  of  the 
GiflTre  (see  below).  Near  (1  hr.)  Salvagny^  a  fine  cascade  descends  from  the 
mountain  on  the  1.  Then  (i|4hr.)  Sixt  (2483')  (Hdtel  du  Fer  d  Chevaly  estab- 
lished in  an  old  monastery,  B.  and  L.  3,  B.  l^|s,  D.  3*)s  fr. ,  sometime* 
crowded).  In  spring,  when  the  brooks  are  swollen  by  the  melting  of  the 
snow,  Sixt  is  remarkable  for  the  magnificent  waterfalls  which  abound  in 
the  neighbourhood.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  alone ,  termed  Vallfe 
du  Fer  it  Cheval  from  its  resemhlance  to  a  horse-shoe,  there  are  as  many 
as  thirty  cascades.  In  summer  and  autumn,  however,  the  number  dwindles 
down  to  five  or  six ,  and  a  visit  to  the  falls  does  not  repay  the  fatigue. 
Near  Fond  de  la  Combe^  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  3  hrs.  from  Sixt, 
there  is  a  vault  of  snow,  100  paces  long ,  containing  another  waterfall,  to 
which   travellers  may  drive. 

The  above  route,  the  most  striking  of  all  the  approaches  to  Mont  Blanc, 


Mont  Blane.  GHAMOUNY.  52.  Route.     221 

is  far  preferable  in  the  reverse  direction :  Sixt  t»  the  ChdUU  des  Fond* 
13|4  hr. ;  a  few  min.  farther  the  bridle-path  turns  to  the  r.  and  crosses  the 
brook  (the  path  to  the  1.  ascends  to  the  Col  Lichaud^  or  Col  des  Fonds^  whence 
the  Buet  may  be  ascended  ^  by  this  route  from  the  chalets  to  the  summit  of  the 
Buet  and  down  to  Chamouny  9 — 10  hrs.,  guide  from  Sixt  necessary,  15  fr.); 
3  hrs.  Col  d'Anteme ,  whence  in  clear  weather  a  most  striking  view  of 
Mont  Blanc  is  obtained.  At  the  foot  of  the  Col  the  path  turns  to  the  1. 
(that  to  the  r.  leads  to  Servoz)  ^  1  hr.  bridge  over  the  Dioza ;  2  hrs.  Col 
du  Briventy  where  another  superb  survey  of  the  Mont  Blanc  chain  is 
enjoyed ;  *\\  hr.  Chalets  de  Plan  Praz ;  i^\\  hr.  Chamouny.  In  fine  weather 
the  route  by  the  Col  des  Fonds  and  the  Buet  is  still  more  impressive. 
A  path  leads  from  Sixt  to  the  N.E.  over  the  Col  de  Sageroux  (7907')  to  Cham- 
p^ry,  see  p.  206. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Oiffre,  iijfM.  below  Sixt,  is  situated  Bamotes  (2293') 
(Bdtel  de  la  Poste ;  Hdtel  du  Commerce^  cuisine  tolerable  *,  both  uninviting), 
a  small  town  with  3000  inhab.,  whence  the  traveller  may  either  cross  the 
Co/  de  Jourplaine  (6683') ,  or  the  Col  de  Ooleze  (6444')  to  (4  hrs.)  Morxine 
(Hotel  du  Chamois),  and  thence  descend  the  valley  of  the  Dranse  to  Thonon 
on  the  Lake  of  Geneva  (p.  206).  Or  from  Samoens  by  omnibus  through 
the  valley  of  the  GifTre  (once  daily  in  7  hrs.,  fare  4  fr.),  vi&  Tanninget  and 
St.  Jeoirey  to  Geneva  (where  the  omnibus  stops  at  the  small  and  poor  Hotel 
de  Savoie,  Rue  de  Rive  13).  From  Samoens  to  Geneva  atd.  30  a.  m.,  from 
Geneva  to  Samoens  at  11.  a.  m.  —  From  Samoens  by  the  Col  de  Goleze 
and  the  Col  de  Coux  to  Champ^ry  in  6 — 7  hrs.,  see  p.  206. 

From  Chamouny  to  Sixt  by  Argentiire  and  the  Mont  Buet.,  an  in- 
teresting, but  fatiguing  route,  10—11  hrs.  (guide  necessary).  To  (6  H.) 
Argentiere  see  p.  228.  Thence  ^l^  hr.  on  the  Tete  Noire  nmte  as  far  as 
the  entrance  to  the  Birard  Valley^  up  which  the  path  leads  to  the  Pierre 
«(  Birard  chalets  (small  inn,  where  the  night  had  better  be  spent  in  order 
that  the  summit  may  be  reached  early).  Then  over  loose  stones  and  snow 
for  3>J2  hrs.  to  the  summit  of  the  *Bii«t  (10,197')  which  commands  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  Mont  Blanc  range,  Monte  SLosa,  the  Matterhom,  the 
Bernese  Alps  with  the  Finsteraarhom  and  Jungfrau,  the  Dent  du  Midi,  and 
the  Jura  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Dauphin^.  Descent  of  2*|4  hrs.  by  the 
Col  Lichaud^  or  de*  Fonds,  to  the  Chalet*  de*  Fond*  (milk).  Bridle-path 
thence  to  Sixt  in  lij*  hr. 

Xont  Blane  (15,781'),  the  monarch  of  European  mountains 
(Monte  Rosa  15,364',  Finsteraarhom  14,026',  Ortler  12,812',  the 
Pic  de  Nethou,  or  Maladetta,  the  highest  of  the  Pyrenees,  11,168'), 
which  since  1860  has  formed  the  boundary  between  France  and  Italy, 
is  composed  chiefly  of  Alpine  granite  or  protogine.  It  was  ascended 
for  the  first  time  in  1786  by  an  enterprising  guide  named  Jac* 
ques  Balmat.  On  his  return  he  fell  ill  In  consequence  of  the 
fatigue  ^nd  exposure  he  had  undergone,  and  he  was  attended  by 
a  local  physician.  Dr.  Paccard,  to  whom  he  made  known  Ms  dis- 
covery. He  afterwards  accompanied  the  doctor  to  the  summit, 
which  they  reached  after  a  succession  of  perilous  adventures. 
In  1787  the  ascent  was  made  by  the  celebrated  naturalist  De 
Saussure,  accompanied  by  seventeen  guides,  and  his  narrative 
was  received  with  great  interest  by  the  scientific  world.  In  1825 
the  summit  was  attained  by  Dr.  £.  Clarke  and  Captain  Sherwill, 
and  in  1827  by  Mr.  Auldjo ,  who  published  a  highly  interesting 
account  of  his  ascent.  These  were  the  principal  pioneers  of  a 
route  now  annually  trodden  by  numbers.  The  ascent  is  made 
about  40  times  annually,  and  in  fine  weather  is  attended  with 
no  very  serious  difficulty  or  danger.    Travellers  are  however  ear- 


222     Route  52.  COL  DU  G^ANT. 

nestly  cautioned  against  attempting  the  expedition  in  foggy  or 
stormy  weather.  A  party  of  eleven  persons  perished  in  a  storm 
during  the  ascent  in  1870 ,  and  a  young  English  lady  and  a  guide 
were  precipitated  into  a  crevasse  near  the  Grands  Mulets  the  same 
year  in  consequence  of  having  neglected  the  important  precaution 
of  attaching  themselves  together  by  a  rope. 

On  the  first  day  the  travellers  generally  ascend  by  the  Chalets  de  la 
Pierre  Pointue  (p.  mUO)^  which  may  be  reached  on  mule-back,  to  the  Orandi 
MvleU  (10,007'),  where  the  night  is  spent  at  one  of  the  two  stone  huts  (refresh- 
ments and  beds) ;  on  the  second  they  proceed  to  the  summit,  and  back  to  the 
Grands  Mulets,  and  on  the  third  Chamouny  is  regained  (or  the  entire 
descent  may  be  made  on  the  second  day).  Those  who  make  the  ascent  from 
8t.  Qervais  (p.  214),  by  the  Pavilion  de  Bellevtte  (p.  228),  spend  a  night  on 
the  Aiguille  du  Qouter^  where  the  guides  of  St.  Gervais  have  erected 
a  hut.  The  two  routes  unite  on  the  Grand  Plateau  (about  12^300'),  a  val- 
ley of  nevi^  forming  the  source  of  the  Glacier  de$  Bossons  (p.  220)  and  the 
Glacier  d*  Taconay  (p.  214),  which  separate  near  the  Grands  Mulcts  (sec 
above).  The  view  from  the  summit  is  unsatisfactory;  owing  to  the  gr^t 
distance,  all  objects  appear  indistinct  \  even  in  the  most  favourable  weather 
the  outlines  only  of  the  great  chains ,  the  Swiss  Alps ,  the  Jura,  and  the 
Apennines  are  distinguishable.  The  ascent  is  somewhat  expensive;  one 
traveller  requires  one  guide  (1(X)  fr.)  and  a  porter  (50  fr.)  and  for  each 
additional  person  one  guide  or  porter  more  is  desirable ,  but  experienced 
mountaineers  require  comparatively  fewer.  Besides  this  there  are  other 
expenses  for  provisions,  wine,  etc.,  so  that  the  ascent  of  Mont  Blanc  can 
seldom  be  made  under  220—250  fr.  for  each  person. 

Tout  du  Mont  Blanc^    see  R.  o5. 

From  Chamouny  to  Courmayeur  (p.  231),  direct,  by  the  Gol  d« 
Oeaat  (11,090'),  a  difficult  and  fatiguing  glacier-pass,  not  to  be  attempted 
except  by  experienced  mountaineers.  This  pass  was  long  considered  the 
highest  among  the  Alps,  and  although  recent  discoveries  have  assigned  it 
an  inferior  rank ,  it  is  still  one  of  the  grandest  and  most  interesting.  It 
traverses  the  upper  part  of  the  Mer  de  Glace,  which  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Pic  du  Tacul  (11,279*)  merges  in  the  Glacier  du  Tacul,  or  du  (3^ant  (to  the 
r.  rises  the  Mont  Blanc  du  Tacul.  13^3^)  i  it  then  ascends  to  the  culminating 
point  between  the  Tour  Ronde  (12,385')  on  the  r.  and  the  Aiguille  du  Giant 
(13,1560  on  the  I.,  and  descends  almost  perpendicular  rocks  to  the  Pavilion 
du  Fruitier  (p.  231),  and  thence  to  the  Val  Ferret,  Entrfeves,  and  Courmayeur. 
The  expedition ,  which  occupies  12 — 15  hrs. ,  is  unattended  with  serious 
danger,  as  most  of  the  guides  are  well  acquainted  with  the  route.  The 
fatal  accident,  by  which  three  Englishmen  lost  their  lives  on  this  pass  in 
1861,  was  occasioned  by  their  neglect  of  the  necessary  precaution  of  binding 
themselves  together  with  the  rope. 

53.   From  Chamouny  to  Martigny  by  the  Tftte-Noire, 
or  to  Vemayaz  by  Triquent  and  Salvan. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  214. 

To  Le  Ghatelard  i^\i  hrs.,  thence  over  the  TStc  Noire  to  Martigny  41/4, 
or  by  Salvan  to  Vemaya*  3»|»--4  hrs.  Carriage-road  as  far  as  Argentiere, 
thence  a  bridle-path  to  the  Hotel  de  la  Tdte  Noire,  beyond  which  there 
is  a  carriage  road  to  Martigny.  If  a  carriage  be  taken  to  Argentiere  (one- 
horse  6,  two -horse  10—12  fr.),  the  remainder  of  the  route  can  easily  be 
accomplished  on  foot  in  one  day,  even  by  ladies,  if  they  are  good  walkers. 
At  the  hotels  of  Barberine  (p.  224),  or  Le  Chatelard,  half-way,  guides  with 
horses  returning  to  Martigny  olTcr  their  services  for  a  few  francs.  The 
following  directions,  however,  render  a  guide  unnecessary.  Those  who  Jeave 
Chamouny  early  may  reach  Geneva  the  same  day  by  railway.  —  By 
making  a  digression  of  2  hrs.  (with  a  guide),  the  view  from  the    Col  de 


ARGENTI^RE.  53.  RouU.     223 

Balme  may  be  combined  with  the   TSte- Noire.     The  guides  (p.  225)   by 
this  longer  route  are  entitled  to  an  additional  fee  of  3  fr. 

Three  Bridle- Paths  connect  the  valley  of  Chamouny  with  the  Valais 
viz.  those  described  in  the  present  and  the  following  route.  The  path  by 
the  Tit€-Noire  to  Martigny  and  that  leading  by  Salvan  to  Vemayaz  are  by 
far  the  most  interesting  and  least  fatiguing,  while  the  third,  traversing  the 
Col  de  Balme ,  commands  a  superb  view  of  the  Valley  of  Chamouny  and 
Mont  Blanc,  which  are  not  visible  from  the  Tdte-Noire  route.  These,  how- 
ever, are  familiar  to  persons  quitting  Chamouny,  who,  therefore,  will 
do  well  to  select  the  Tete-Koire  route,  while  those  coming  from  Martigny 
should  choose  the  Col  de  Balme  in  fine  weather.  The  routes  may  be 
combined  in  the  way  above  indicated  (see  also  p.  227).  The  most  impressive 
way  of  approaching  Mont  Blanc  is  from  Sixt,  over  the  Col  d'Anteme  (p.  220). 

The  routes  to  Martigny  and  Vernayaz  do  not  divide  until  Le 
Chatelard  (p.  224)  is  reached.  The  road  ascends  from  Chamouny 
(3445')  by  the  Arvty  which  it  crosses  by  a  bridge  near  (I72  M.) 
1^8  Praz.  The  village  and  Olaeier  dtiBois  (Source  of  the  Arveyron, 
p.  221,  a  digression  of  20  min.)  are  left  on  the  r. ;  (1^2  ^0  ^^ 
Tinea  (Au  Touriste,  poor);  then  (8/4  M.)  Lavaneher  (3848'J. 
A  little  farther,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Arve,  are  the  groups 
of  houses  of  La  Joux,  whence  the  FMg^re  may  be  ascended  by 
travellers  coming  from  Argenti^re.  Les  Ilea  and  Qrafionet  are 
next  passed.  (2V4  M.)  Argenti^re  (4236')  (*Couronne,  R.  2, 
B.  1,  D.  2V2,  A.  V2  fr. ;  *BeUtoue),  the  third  largest  vUlage 
in  the  valley,  near  which  the  huge  glacier  of  the  same  name 
descends  into  the  valley  between  the  AiguiUe  VerU  (13,450') 
and  the  AiguiUe  du  Chardonnet  (12,543'). 

Beyond  the  village  the  road  to  the  right  follows  the  course  of 
the  Arve  to  Tour  and  the  Col  de  Balme  (272  ^^^' ,  see  p.  227 ; 
the  inn  on  the  Col  being  visible  almost  all  the  way).  The  T^te 
Noire  route  is  by  a  bridle-path  to  the  left,  traversing  a  wild 
ravine,  which,  like  that  on  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  (p.  214), 
bears  the  name  of  Lea  Monteia.  Beyond  the  (1/4  hr.)  hamlet 
of  TrSleehamp,  the  path  reaches  the  (20  min.)  summit  of  the 
pass  {Col  dea  MorUeUy  4819'),  indicated  by  a  cross,  the  water- 
shed between  two  streams,  one  of  which  descends  to  the  N.  to 
the  Rhone,  while  the  other  to  the  S.  joins  the  Arve.  Numer- 
ous boulders  afford  indication  of  the  glaciers  which  once  occu- 
pied the  bed  of  this  valley.  Near  Poyaz,  to  the  r.  of  which 
the  path  afterwards  passes,  opens  the  wild  and  barren  Vallee  de 
BSrardj  from  which  the  Eau- Noire  descends.  This  stream  forms 
the  picturesque  ^Caacade  de  Berardy  or  de  Poynz,  most  romanti- 
cally situated  1/2  ^^'  higher  up  (admission  1  fr.).  At  the  end 
of  the  valley  the  snow-clad  summit  of  the  Buet  (p.  221)  is 
visible  to  the  r.  of  the  AiguiUea  Rougea.  The  path  traverses  a 
desolate  and  stony  gorge ,  following  the  course  of  the  Eau- 
Noire.  The  first  chalets  are  near  the  (72  hr.)  bridge  over  the 
Eau-Noire;  72  ^^«  heyond  which  is  the  church  of  Valoroine 
(4232'),  protected  from  avalanches  by  walls.  This  village,  the 
largest  in   the  valley    (640    inhab.),    consLiits   of  a   long  cow  of 


224     Route  53.  TfeTE-NOIRE. 

chalets.  (Immediately  beyond  the  church  a  finger-post  indicates 
the  path  to  the  1.  leading  direct  to  the  fall  of  the  Barberine  men- 
tioned below,  and  thence  to  the  Hotel  Barberine.) 

The  valley  contracts,  the  path  descends  to  the  stream  which 
rushes  foaming  over  the  rocks,  and  the  scenery  becomes  grander. 
(25  min.)  Confluence  of  the  Barberine  and  the  £au-Noire;  the 
former  forms  a  beautiful  waterfall  (for  permission  to  visit  which 
1  fr.  is  demanded),  ^2  ^^-  ^T^om  the  *H6tel  Barberine^  or  de  la 
Cascade^  a  roadside  inn,  halfway  between  Ghamouny  and  Mar- 
tigny.  (5  min.)  Bridge  over  the  Eau-Noire  (3684'),  the  boun- 
dary of  Savoy  and  the  Canton  of  Valais;  (10  min.)  ^Hdtel  Royal 
du  Ckatelard  (R.  V/^j  B.  I1/2  fr-)»  ^here  the  two  routes  to  the 
valley  of  the  Rhone  separate.  To  the  r.  is  the  well  known  route 
by  the  Tete  Noire  to  Martigny,  to  the  1.  the  new  and  still  more 
attractive  path  via  Triquent  and  Salvan  to  Yernayaz  (p.  201). 

From  Le  Chatelard  to  Martigny  4^/4  hrs.  The  once 
dangerous  but  now  disused  Mapaa  (mauvaU  pas)  descends  to  the 
1.,  while  the  new  route  leads  high  above  the  sombre  and  pro- 
found valley,  and  penetrates  the  rocks  of  the  (^2  ^'0  T6t6-Hoire, 
or  La  Roche-Perde.  (The  Summit  of  the  Ttte-Noire,  6595',  lies 
to  the  S. ,  and  is  a  peak  of  the  chain  which  terminates  in  the 
Croix  de  Fer,  to  the  N.  of  the  Col  de  Balme,  p.  226^  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  stream  rises  the  Bel-Oiaeau  (8612'),  to  the 
N.  of  which  are  the  Dent  de  Morcles  (p.  200)  and  Grand  Moveran 
(10,048').  About  10  min.  beyond  the  Roche-PercSey  3  hrs.  from 
Argentifere,  the  Hdtel  de  la  THe-Noire  (4003')  is  reached,  (Path 
to  the  Col  de  Balme,  see  p.  227.)  The  road  here  turns  suddenly 
to  the  r.  into  the  dark  and  beautiful  'forest  of  Trient,  and  winds 
round  the  Tete-Noire.  Deep  in  the  valley  below,  dashes  the 
brawling  Trient  (which  joins  the  Eau-Noire  a  little  farther  on). 
"Where  the  forest  is  quitted,  the  valley  widens,  and  (1/2  lir-) 
Trient  (Inn)  is  reached,  a  little  beyond  which  the  present  route 
unites  with  that  from  Chamouny  over  the  Col  de  Balme  (see 
below). 

From  this  village  the  road  ascends  to  the  (35  min.)  Col  de 
Trient,  better  known  as  the  Col  de  la  Fordai  (5020')  (two 
small  inns).  The  view  from  the  summit  is  limited,  but  ^2  b^- 
lower  a  noble  prospect  is  disclosed,  embracing  the  valley 
of  the  Rhone  as  far  as  Sion ,  extended  like  a  map  beneath  the 
eye  of  the  spectator,  with  Martigny  immediately  below.  The 
road  to  Martigny  (descent  2,  ascent  2^/2  hrs.)  at  first  traverses 
pastures  and  forest,  and  then  meadows  planted  with  fruit  and 
chestnut-trees.  Good  walkers  may  reach  Martigny  in  1^2  hr.  by 
following  the  steep  and  stony  old  road,  which  cuts  oif  the  wind- 
ings of  the  new.     Martigny  le  Bourg  and  Martigny  see  p.  202. 

From  Chatelard  to  Vernayaz,  3^2  ^rs.  (several  new  inns 
on  the  route),.   The  new  bridle-path  to  the  1.  ascends  partly  by  zig- 


COL  D£  LA  FORCLAZ.      5i.  BouU.     225 

z»g8   for  3/4  hr.,  and,  vhere  the   path   divides,  turns  to  the  r., 

in  the   direction  of  Finhaut,  which  is  visible.     Then  for  8/4  hr. 

nearly  level,  with  views  of  the  valleys  of  the  Eau-Noire  and  the 

Trient  (p.  226),  the  Glacier  de   Trient,  and  behind  the  traveller 

the  Aiguilles   Rouges  and  Mont  Blanc.     Beyond  Finhaut  (4058') 

the  path  at  first  ascends   slightly ,   is  then   level,  and   afterwards 

descends    in    easy    windings    to    the    small    village    of    Triquent 

(3261'),  and   the  (IV4  hr.)  Gorge  of  Triquent  with  the  beautiful 

*  Falls  of  the  Triive,  surrounded  by  pines.     For  a  short  way  the 

path  is  again   level,    and   then    gradually   descends    to    (Y2  hr.) 

Salyan  (3035')  (two  small  inns). 

The  *Oa«oftde  du  Dailly  near  Salvan  merits  a  visit.  A  good  path  leads 
to  it  in  40  min.  by  the  hamlet  of  Les  OrangeSy  situated  on  the  slope  facing 
the  valley  of  the  Rhone.  The  finest  points  of  view  are  above  and  opposite 
the  fall  respectively,  and  if  these  be  visited,  the  excursion  occupies  about 
3  hrs.  from  Salvan.  In  returning  to  Salvan  a  fine  view  of  the  snow 
mountains  of  the  G-reat  St.  Bernard  is  enjoyed.  Guide  from  Salvan  1 — 2  fr. 
according  to  the  extent  of  the  excursion,  not  absolutely  necessary. 

The  path  finally  descends  in  numerous  windings,  shaded  by 
chestnuts,  in  50  min.  to   Vemayaz  (rail,  stat.,  p.  201). 

54.     From  Martig^y  to  Chamouny.     Col  de  Balme. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  214. 

S^\i  hrs.  (comp.  pp.  222,  223).  Carriage-road  from  Martigny  to  Trient, 
and  from  Tour  to  Chamouny.  Guide  (12  fr.)  unnecessary,  if  the  following 
directions  be  observed.  Stule  and  attendant  by  the  Col  de  Balme  or  T^te 
Xoire  to  Chamouny  24  fr. ;  if  the  two  routes  are  combined,  3  fr.  additional. 
For  the  excursion  to  Chamouny  by  the  Col  de  Balme  and  back  by  the 
TSte  19'oire  (3  days)  the  same  guide  may  be  employed  (6  fr.  per  day,  or 
mule  with  attendant  12  fr.  per  day).  The  inn  on  the  Col  de  Balme  is 
tolerable,  and  considering  its  situation  the  charges  are  not  unreasonable. 

Martigny  (see  p.  202)  lies  Y2  ^*  ^'om  the  railway  station. 
The  road  leads  thence  to  the  S.  to  (3/4  M.)  Martigny  le  Bourg 
(p.  202),  crosses  the  (Y2  ^0  ^ran«e,  which  flows  from  the 
Great  St.  Bernard,  and  ascends  through  vineyards,  orchards,  and 
meadows.  The  new  road  is  practicable  for  light  vehicles  as  far 
as  Trient.  About  4  miu.  from  the  bridge  atands  a  cross, 
opposite  which  a  tablet  on  a  house  indicates  the  road  to  Chamouny 
to  the  r.  y  and  that  to  the  Qreat  St.  Bernard  to  the  1.  At 
the  (10  min.)  first  village  the  excellent  new  road  diverges 
to  the  1.  and  ascends  the  hill  in  windings,  which  the  rugged 
old  path  cuts  off;  20  miu.  La  Fontaine,  Immediately  above 
the  village  the  old  and  new  routes  coincide  and  lead  to  the 
I.  (the  steep  path  to  the  r.  ascends  into  the  woods  only). 
Then  10  min.  Sartnieux,  55  min.  Chavans  en  Haul  (refreshments ; 
extensive  view  of  the  Rhone  valley);  25  min.  Col  de  la  Forclaz 
(see  p.  224).  A  road  here  leads  to  the  1.  to  the  .Olacier  du  Trient, 
the  most  N.  arm  of  the  ice-fields  of  Mont  Blanc,  but  not  visible 
hence,  while  the  Chamouny  road  descends  in  a  straight  direction. 

BiBDSKBB,  Switzerland.  6th  Edition.  15 


226     BotOe  64.  COL  D£  BALMfi. 

Opposite  the  traveller ,    slightly  to  the  1. ,   is  visible  the  valley, 
along  the  1.  side  of  which  lies  the  route  to  the  Col  de  Balme. 

After  1/4  hr.  the  path  to  the  Col  de  Balme  diverges  to  the 
1.  from  the  road  to  the  lower  part  of  the  village  of  Trient  and 
the  Tete  Noire  (fine  view  of  the  Glacier  de  Trient  in  descend- 
ing), and  in  10  min.  crosses  a  bridge  opposite  the  upper  houses 
of  Trient  (4317')'  The  meadows  to  the  1.  are  now  traversed; 
12  min.  the  Nant-Noir  (^Nant\  probably  from  natarCj  is  the 
Savoyard  word  for  a  mountain  stream),  which  descends  from  the 
Mont  des  HerhaglreSy  is  crossed.  The  path  ascends  the  r.  bank 
for  about  200  paces,  and  then ,  turning  to  the  1.  ,  winds  up- 
wards in  zigzags  through  the  Forest  of  Magnin^  which  has  been 
considerably  thinned  by  avalanches.  The  path  is  steep  and 
fatiguing  for  d/4  hr. ,  but  afterwards  becomes  more  level,  and 
traverses  green  pastures  and  slopes  carpeted  with  the  rhodo- 
dendron; Y2  ^'*  ^^  P<>0'  Chalets  des  HerhagkreSj  or  ZerbaaiUre 
(6663 Q,  where  milk  may  sometimes  be  procured.  A  line  retro- 
spective view  of  the  Col  de  Forclaz  and  the  Bel-Oiseau  to  the  1. 

After  a  gradual  and  winding  ascent  of  ^2  ^^*  more  the  path 
reaches  the  summit  of  the  pass,  the  *Col  de  Balme  (72310  (.^^^^ 
Suisse,  tolerable,  charges  high),  the  boundary  between  Switzerland 
(Valais)  and  France  (Savoy).  In  clear  weather  the  whole  of  the 
Mont  Blanc  range  is  visible  from  summit  to  base,  surrounded 
by  the  Aiguilles  de  Tour ,  d'Argenti^re ,  V erte ,  du  Dru ,  de 
Charmoz,  du  Midi,  etc.,  with  its  huge  glaciers  descending  to  the 
green  valley  of  Chamouny,  which  is  also  visible  as  far  as  the 
Col  de  Yoza.  On  the  r.  are  the  Aiguilles  Rouges,  and  beside 
theni  the  Br^vent,  by  which  the  valley  is  bounded ;  in  the  rear, 
the  snow-clad  Buet  (p.  221)  is  visible  to  the  r.  The  retrospective 
view  over  the  Forclaz  embraces  the  Valais  and  the  gigantic  moun- 
tains which  separate  it  from  the  Bernese  Oberland,  the  Gemmi 
with  its  two  peaks,  the  Jungfrau,  the  Finster-Aarhorn,  Grimsei, 
and  Furca. 

The  *view  from  a  second  eminence  to  the  r.,  with  a  white 
boundary  stone,  about  V4^'*  N.W.  of  the  inn,  is  still  more  ex- 
tensive. To  the  N.  extends  the  Croix  de  Fer,  or  AigiuUe  de  Balme 
(7680');  the  extremity  of  the  precipitous  hills  which  rise  above 
the  Col  de  Balme.  From  this  point  Mont  Blanc  presents  a  still 
more  imposing  appearance  than  from  the  Col,  and  the  entire 
chain  of  the  Bernese  Alps  is  visible  to  the  N.E.,  jislng  like  a 
vast  white  wall  with  countless  pinnacles.  The  descent  may  be 
begun  immediately  from  this  point.  The  ascent  of  the  Aiguille 
itself  is  difficult,  and  not  recommended.  The  cross  erected  on 
it  is  to  the  memory  of  Escher  von  Berg,  a  young  native  of 
Zurich ,  who  lost  his  life  in  attempting  the  ascent,  contrary  to 
the  advice  of  the  guides. 


TOUR.  64.  BouU.    227 

The  Colde  Balme  afid  Tdte  Koire  routes  are  also  connected  by 
meana  of  a  footiiath  (2>)s  bra.))  wltich  is  recommended  to  the  traveller 
who  is  desirous  of  visiting  these  points  in  one  day  from  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone.  A  guide  may  be  dispensed  with  in  fine  weather.  To  the  W.  of 
the  Col,  behind  the  above  mentioned  eminence  with  the  boundary  stone, 
a  narrow,  but  well  defined  path  leads  nearly  to  the  (10  min.)  brink  of  the 
Tdte  Ifoire  Valley,  and  then  becomes  indistinct.  The  traveller  must  not 
descend  to  the  valley,  but  turn  to  the  r.  (N.)  and  follow  a  slight  depression 
for  a  few  minutes  until  a  number  of  heaps  of  stone  become  visible.  The 
path  soon  re-appears  and  passes  to  the  r.  of  these  (10  min.)  heaps  *,  10  min. 
a  group  of  chalets,  before  quite  reaching  which  the  path  crosses  a  small 
stream  and  descends  rapidly  to  the  1.  on  its  bank^  >|s  hr.  another  group 
of  chalets  (paths  descending  1.  to  be  avoided)  \  20  min.  a  third  group  of 
chalets.  Delightful  view  during  the  descent,  embracing  the  entire  TSte 
Koire  valley,  which  presents  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  Col  de  Balme 
route.  The  path,  now  well  constructed  and  much  frequented,  passes 
several  chalets  and  farms,  and  at  length  reaches  (1  hr.)  the  H6Ul  de  la 
Tete  Noire  (p.  224).  The  views  are  less  striking  if  the  excursion  be  made 
in  the  reverse  direction.  From  Martigny  and  back  by  this  route  10 — 11  hrs., 
from  Chamouny  and  back  about  12,  from  Chamouny  to  Hartigny  10 — 11  hm. 

In  descending  from  the  inn,  the  Arvt^  which  rises  on  the  Col 

de  Balme,  flows  to  the  r.     The  path  crosses  seyeral  small  brooks, 

and  then  passes  (3/4  hr.)  the  Homme  di  Pierre^  a  heap  of  stones 

which   serves   as  a  landmark  when  the   paths  are  covered  with 

snow ;  Y4  ^*  *  hetk^  of  stones,  lesembling  a  hut  without  a  roof ; 

V4  hr.  Tovr,  to  the  1.  of  which  is  the  beautiful  glacier  of  that 

name.      Carriage-road  hence   to    Chamouny.     The   fragments   of 

black  slate  brought  down  by  the  Arve  are  carefully  collected  into 

heaps  by  the  peasants.     In   spring  they   cover  their  fields  with 

these  slabs,  which  being  heated  by  the  sunshine  cause  the  snow 

beneath  them  to  melt  several  weeks  earlier  than  would  otherwise 

be  the  case.     (Carriage  from  Tour  to  Chamouny  with  one  horse 

6,  with  two  9 — 10  fr. ;  those  who  intend  to  drive  should  hire  a 

carriage   here  rather  than  at  Argentidre.)     About  ^2  ^-   ^^^^ 

Tour  the  road  crosses  the  BuUme^  which  drains  the  Olaeier  du 

Tour,  and  at  (IV4M.)  Argentiire  joins  Route  53  (p.  223).    The 

traveller  should  spend  the  night  here,  and  proceed  the  following 

day  by  the  Chapeau  and  Montanvert  to  Chamouny,  as  the  distance 

from  the   base  of  the  Glacier    des   Bois  to   Chamouny  is  thus 

traversed  but  once.     From  Argenti^re  to   Chamouny  6  M.  more. 

From  the  Col  de  Balme  to  Chamouny  4  hrs.  (ascent  41/2  hrs.). 


66.     Tour  da  Mont  Blanc. 

Team  Chainoiiny  to  Aeita  by  the  Goi  de  Bonhonime  and  the 

Ool  de  la  Seigne. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  214^  234, 

Bridle-path  well  trodden,  and  not  easily  mistaken  except  after  a 
fall  of  snow.  An  easy  walk  of  three  days  to  Courmayeur :  Ist,  to  Contamines 
6  hit. ;  2nd^  to  Mottet  6*14  hrt. ;  3rd,  Courmayeur  G*|4  hrs.  -,  4th,  drive  to 
Aosta,  28  II.  —  (^od  walkers  may  reach  Courmayeur  from  Chamouny  in 
two  days,  by  spending  the  night  at  La  Balma  (p.  229),  Chapiu  (p.  23(^,  or 
Mottet  (p.  230).  This  may  also  be  accomplished  by  taking  a  mule.  —  From 

15* 


^228     Route  55.  COL  DE  VOZA.         From  Chamouny 

Courmayeur  to  Aosta  a  good  carriage-road  ^  one-horse  carr.  18,  two-horse 
90  fr. ;  diligence  from  1st  July  to  15th  Sept.  only.  Guides  at  Chamouny, 
see  p.  215.  Tolerable  mountaineers  may  dispense  with  a  guide  in  favour- 
able weather.  The  tour  of  Munt  Blanc  is  reckoned  as  five  days'  journey, 
and  costs  30  fr.,  besides  which  a  gratuity. is  expected. 

The  *ToJU  of  Mont  Blanc,  as  this  expedition  is  termed,  is 
frequen-My  undertaken,  especially  by  travellers  from  Chamouny  to 
Aosta  or  those  who  desire  to  visit  the  Great  St.  Bernard  without 
retracing  their  steps.  Unless  the  rare  good  fortune  of  an  un- 
clouded prospect  from  the  Col  de  Bonhomme  and  Col  de  la  Seigne 
is  enjoyed,  the  traveller  will  probably  be  disappointed  in  the 
excursion.  The  All4e  Blanche  ftnd  the  neighbourhood  of  Cour- 
mayeur, however,  rank  with  the  grandest  portions  of  the  Alps. 

About  33/4  M.  from  Chamouny  the  traveller  quits  the  new 
road,  crosses  the  Arve,  and  reaches  (I/4  M.)  Les  Ouches^  or  Lea 
Houchea,  recognisable  by  its  picturesquely  situated  church.  Two 
paths  ascend  hence  to  the  1. :  the  first  (preferable)  by  the  brook, 
a  few  paces  beyond  the  church,  hardly  to  be  mistaken,  ascends 
in  2  hrs.  to  the  *PavHton  de  BeUevue,  a  small  inn  situated  about 
V4  hr.  above  the  Col  de  Voza,  and  commanding  a  magnificent 
*view  (best  by  evening-light)  of  the  valley  of  Chamouny  as  far 
as  the  Col  de  Balme ,  Mont  Blanc ,  the  valley  of  the  Arve ,  St. 
Gervais,  Sallanches,  etc.  The  other  path  diverges  from  the  old 
road  V4  M.  farther  on,  and  ascends  in  2  hrs.  to  the 

Col  de  Voza  (5495')  (PaviUon  de  Voza)]  but  this  route  may 
more  easily  be  mistaken,  and  the  view  from  the  pass  is  less  ex- 
tensive than  from  the  Bellevue  (situated  1/4  hr.  to  the  N.,  higher 
up,  and  not  visible  hence). 

From  the  Col  de  Yoza  and  from  the  Bellevue  paths  descend 
in  1/4  ^r-  to  the  village  of  Bionnassay, 

The  longer  route  (4  hrs.)  hence  to  Les  Contamines  leads  to 
the  r.,  and  descends  to  BUmnay  (3191');  the  more  direct  route 
(2^2  hrs.)  to  the  1.  leads  by  Champel.  At  the  small  chapel  of 
Bionnassay  the  footpath  descends  to  the  1.,  crosses  the  brook, 
and  soon  unites  with  the  longer  bridle-path.  In  1  hr.  the  village 
of  Champel  is  reached ,  where  the  path  turns  to  the  1.  by  the 
fountain  and  rapidly  descends  the  hill ;  ^4  hr.  La  ViUette,  where 
the  path  leads  to  the  r.  by  the  fountain  and  soon  reaches  the 
carriage-road  from  St.  Gervais.  The  Montjoie  Valley,  which  the 
road  traverses,-  watered  by  the  Bon  Nant,  resembles  that  of 
Chamouny,  bounded  on  the  £.  by  the  vast  grey  Olacier  of 
Bionnassay,  a  wild  waste  of  rock  and  snow.  On  the  Hermance, 
the  N.  slope  of  Mont  JoU  (8373'),  which  bouads  the  view  on 
the  W.,  stands  the  picturesque  village  of  8t.  Nicolas  de  Veroce. 
In  1  hr.  more  Les  Contamines  is  reached. 

[Instead  of  the  direct  route  from  the  Pavilion  or  from  the  Col 
to  Contamines  through  Bionnassay,  the  digression  by  the  Prarion 
(6460')  (route  to  St.  Gervais),    about  300'  higher  (3865'),  is 


I 


to  Aoata.  LE8  0ONTAMINE8.  55.  Route.     229 

recommended  by  some  (comp.  p.  214),  as  it  commands  a  beau- 
tiful view  towards  Sallanches.] 

Let  CSontaminai  (3943')  {^Col  du  Bonhomme^  at  the  lower 
end ;  Union ,  in  the  village ,  tolerable) ,  a  large  village  with  a 
picturesque  church,  lies  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  valley.  Tho 
Ment  Joli  (see  above)  is  frequently  ascended  hence  in  4 — 5  hrs., 
as  well  as  from  St.  Qervais;  admirable  view  from  the  summit; 
guide  6  fr. ,  not  absolutely  necessary  (guide  to  the  Col  de 
Bonhomme  6 — 8,  Col  des  Fours  6 — 8,  Chapiu  8 — 10,  Mottet 
10 — 12  fr. ;  the  higher  fees  being  charged  when  the  guide  cannot 
return  the  same  day). 

Beyond  Contamines  the  road  descends,  commanding  a  view 
of  the  valley  as  far  as  the  peaks  of  the  Bonhomme,  and  crosses 
the  brook  near  the  hamlet  of  Pontet.  The  valley  contracts, 
and,  near  the  (40  min.)  chapel  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Oorye, 
terminates  in  a  deep  ravine  at  the  foot  of  Mont  Joli.  Numerous 
pilgrims  resort  to  this  chapel  on  15th  Aug.  Wrestling-matches, 
see  Introd.  XY. 

The  road  terminates  here.  The  footpath  ascends  to  the  1., 
near  a  bridge,  passing  frequent  traces  of  glacier -friction  (see 
Introd.  XIV),  and  then  traverses  a  wood;  (40  min.)  it  crosses 
by  a  stone  bridge  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Nant-Borant,  and  (7  min.) 
reaches  the  ChaUta  o^  Nant-Borftnt  (4780^) ,  4^2  hrs.  from  the 
Baths  of  St.  Gervais  (tolerable  inn,  mule  to  the  summit  of  the 
Col  de  Bonhomme  5  fr.j.  The  traveller  now  crosses  the  wooden 
bridge  to  the  1.,  and  traverses  the  pastures  by  a  rough  and  stony 
path,  crossing  the  brook  several  times.  Magnificent  view  of  the 
QLacier  de  TrelatlU,  which  descends  from  the  AiguilU  (12,900') 
of  that  name;  opposite  the  spectator  rises  the  Bonhomme,  to  the 
r.  the  beautiful  mountain  La  Rosalette.  Looking  back,  the  eye 
ranges  over  the  whole  of  the  Mon^oie  Valley  as  far  as  the 
Aiguilles  de  Varens  (p.  210).  A  spring  of  excellent  water 
bubbles  up  by  the  side  of  the  path  a  few  minutes  below  La 
Balma. 

The  (1  hr.)  duJet  do  la  Balma,  or  Barmaz  (6007'),  is  a 
small  and  tolerable  inn.  In  doubtful  weather  a  guide  should  be 
taken  from  this  point  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  (3  fr.);  but, 
as  guides  are  not  always  to  be  met  with  here,  it  is  safer  to 
engage  one  at  Les  Contamines. 

The  path,  indicated  by  stakes,  now  ascends  wild,  stony 
slopes.  Vegetation  disappears,  and  the  Alpine  rose  alone  finds 
a  scanty  subsistence.  On  the  (55  min.)  Plaine  des  Dames  (6543') 
rises  a  conical  heap  of  stones  which  is  said  to  mark  the  spot 
where  a  lady  once  perished  in  a  snow-storm.  The  path  now 
ascends  in  windings  on  the  slope  to  the  r.,  and  in  40  min. 
reaches  a  saddle,  sometimes  termed  the  Col  du  Bonhomme,  but  not 
the  real  summit  of  the  pass.     Two  rocks,  the  Pie  du  Bonhomme 


230     Route  55.  CHAPm.  From  Chamouny 

(10,138')  and  the   Pic  de  la  Bonnefemme  (99080,   here  tower 
aloft,  like  two  rained  castles. 

The  desolate  and  barren  valley  into  which  the  traveller  looks  down 
on  the  opposite  side  of  this  saddle  is  that  of  the  OitU.  A  path,  at  first  ill- 
defined,  descends  into  this  basin,  passes  the  lonely  Chalet  de  la  Source^ 
turns  to  the  r.  and  crosses  the  brook,  and  finally  reaches  the  chalet  of 
La  Oitie  in  2  hrs. ;  thence  to  Beaufort  (p.  210)  3  hrs.  This  route  is  un- 
interesting, but  convenient  for  travellers  proceeding  to  the  Tarentaise. 
Guide  not  absolutely  necessary. 

Beyond  this  first  saddle  the  traveller  follows  the  slope  of  the 
mountain  to  the  1.,  the  rocky  path  being  indicated  by  stakes, 
and  in  ^/^  hr.  more  attains  the  crest  of  the  Col  de  Bonhomme 
(8087'),  which  commands,  a  magnificent  panorama  of  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Tarentaise  (p.  233). 

The  traveller  may  now  reach  the  valley  by  one  of  the 
following  routes.  He  may  turn  to  the  I. ,  continuing  to  ascend 
by  the  posts  to  the  (V2  h'-)  Col  des  Fours  (8894'),  and  then 
descend  to  (2  hrs.)  Mattel  (see  below).  This  pass  is  rarely  quite 
free  froin  snow.  On  the  N.  side  especially ,  yrhere  the  posts 
.cease ,  fresh  snow  frequently  conceals  the  path  as  early  as  the 
beginning  or  middle  of  September,  in  which  case  a  guide  is 
desirable.  The  path  descends  at  first  across  stony  slopes,  passes 
(I74  hr.)  a  group  of  chalets,  and  reaches  the  (I/4  hr.)  Hameau 
du  Glacier  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley.  Here  it  descends  by 
the  chapel,  crosses  the  bridge,  and  in  20  min.  more  reaches 
the  inns  of  Mottet. 

Or  the  traveller  may   descend   from  the    Col   de  Bonhomme 

in  a  straight  direction,  partly  over  loose  stones,  to  (1^/^  hr.) 

*     Chapiu  (4973'),   properly  Lei  Chapienz,   an  Alpine  village 

(Hdtel  du  Soleil;   Le  PaviUon),  IY2  l*r.   lower  down   the   valley 

than  Mottet. 

From  Chapiu  to  Pri  St.  Didier  over  the  Little  St.  Bernard 
(11  hrs.;  preferable  to  the  route  over  the  Col  de  la  Seigne  in  doubtful 
weather).  The  path  to  (3  hrs.)  Bourg  St.  Maurice  is  at  first  very  stony, 
but  afterwards  improves,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  upper  Isere 
valley  (Tarentaise)  the  whole  way ,  until  at  length  it  unites  with  the 
high-road.    From  Bourg  St.  Maurice  to  Fri  St.  Didier^  see  p.  233. 

Mottet  (6187')  possesses  two  small  inns  (Repos  des  Voyageur$, 
Ancien  Hdtel) ,  which  afford  tolerable  accommodation.  A  well 
trodden,  and  in  many  places  carefully  constructed  bridle-path 
ascends  hence  to  the  (2  hrs.)  *Col  do  la  Boigno  (8307').  The 
summit  of  the  pass,  where  a  cross  indicates  the  frontier  of 
France  and  Italy,  commands  an  extensive  and  imposing  survey 
of  the  Allie  Blaaehe,  a  lofty  valley  several  miles  in  length, 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  precipices  of  the  Mont  Blanc  chain, 
upwards  of  10,000'  in  height,  and  on  the  S.  by  the  Cramont^ 
or  Gramont  (8976').  De  Saussure  not  Inaptly  compares  Mont 
Blanc,  as  seen  from  tlie  Col  de  la  Seigne,  to  an  artichoke  sur- 
rounded by  its  leaves.  The  eminent  German  geographer  Bitter 
(d.  1859)  meintains  that  the  view  from  the  Col  U  unsurpassed 


to  Aoita,  COURMAYEUB.  65.  RouU.    231 

in  the  Alpg,  snd  th^it  a  parallel  can  only  be  found  among  the 
Himalayas.  The  view  from  the  Cramont  is  howeyer  superior 
(Bee  below). 

The  path  descends  and  soon  reaches  a  chalet ,  where  Alpine 
fare  may  be  procured  in  summer,  and  ^2  ^^'  farther  a  group  of 
chalets  (milk).  It  traverses  patches  of  snow  (which,  however, 
disappear  in  warm  seasons),  rocky  debris,  and  pastures,  and 
passes  the  (I8/4  hr.)  Lae  de  Combal  (6341').  At  the  (E.)  lower 
end  of  the  l^ke  the  path  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  of  the  Voire, 
which  is  formed  by  the  discharge  of  glaciers,  skirts  the  base  of 
the  lofty  moraine  of  the  Glacier  de  Miage  for  1/2  hr. ,  and  then 
recrosses  the  brook  (Caniine  de  VAvi%aiUe,  tolerable).  In  1  hr. 
more  it  reaches  the  beautiful  Qlaeiet  de  Brenva,  which  Alls 
the  valley  with  its  huge  moraine,  compelling  the  path  to  follow 
the  abrupt  slopes  of  the  Mont  ChiUf,  Opposite  the  glacier ,  and 
immediately  above  the  path,  rises  the  picturesquely  situated 
white  Chapelle  du  Glacier^  or  Notre  Dame  de  Guirison,  occupied 
by  a  hermit.  At  the  hamlet  of  Entrlves  (4226^)  the  Doire  is 
joined  by  a  stream  descending  from  the  Ferret  Valley,  and  below 
this  point  takes  the  name  of  Dora  Baltea.  Opposite  the  small 
Baths  of  La  8«ac6  (3/4  hr.)  the  path  again  crosses  the  brook,  and 
in  25  min.  more  reaches 

Conrmayeiir  (3986')  (♦Hotel  Royal,  B.  2,  B.  li|2,  D.  3>|2,  L.  i|a, 
A.  1  fr.  \  ♦Anoelo,  Union,  and  *Mont  Blakc,  similar  charges,  the  last  is 
ijz  M.  from  the  village,  on  the  way  to  the  Col  de  la  Seigne.  Diligence  in 
sununer  to  Aosta  in  o^js  hrs.,  fare  5,  coup^  6  fr.  One-horse  carriage  i6, 
•  two -horse  90  fr. ,  return  vehicles  generally  two -thirds  of  the  full  fare. 
A  society  of  guides  has  recently  been  constituted  at  Courmayeur,  witli 
charges,  regulations,  etc.  resembling  those  of  Chamouny.  Jul.  Orange 
surnamed  la  Berge^  L.  Lagnier ,  L.  Bromontj  etc.,  are  recommendi^ 
a  considerable  village  at  the  upper  extremity  of  the  valley  of 
Aosta,  with  baths  much  frequented  in  summer.  Those  who  do 
not  intend  to  scale  the  Mont  de  Saxe  or  the  Cramont  (see  below) 
from  Oourmayeur,  should  not  fail  to  ascend  the  Ferret  Valley 
(see  below)  for  about  1  M.  in  order  to  obtain  a  view  of  Mont 
Blanc  (not  visible  from  Courmayeur)  in  all  its  magnificence. 
In  the  All^e  Blanche  the  spectator  is  too  near  to  enjoy  an  effec- 
tive view  of  the  different  groups. 

From  the  *Hont  d«  Baz«  (7329')  (ascent  2^\t—9  hrs. ;  guide  6  fr. ,  un- 
neeetsary)  the  view  embraces  the  entire  E.  side  of  Mont  Blanc  with  its 
numerous  glaciers,  from  the  Col  de  la  Seigne  to  the  Col  de  Ferret,  the  Col 
du  G^ant  and  the  Jorasses  being  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Those  who 
come  from  Aosta  need  not  ascend  to  the  highest  point ,  as  a  view  of  thu 
Aosta  Valley  only  is  thus  obtained  \  the  chain  of  Mont  Blanc  is  seen  equally 
well  from  the  last  chalets  (milk). 

The  ^Oramont  (8976'),  the  finest  point  of  view  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Courmayeur,  ascended  fn  4  hrs.  (guide  6  fr.,  advisable),  commands  an  ad- 
mirable survey  of  the  AU^e  Blanche  and  the  remarkable  rocky  pinnacles 
by  which  M<mt  Blanc  is  surrounded. 

From  Courmayeur  to  Chamouny  by  the  Col  du  Qiant 
(comp.  p.  222)  in  14  hrs.,  guide  46,  porter  25  fr. ;  to  the  summit  and  back 
12,  porter  8,  ip  two  days  15,  porter  10  fr.  —  The  ^PaviUon  du  Fruitifr 


232     BouU  55.  COL  D£  F£BR£T. 

(714d')f  situated  on  the  Jion;  Frity^  on  the  route  to  the  Col  du  Q^ant, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  Mont  Blanc,  and  the  Alps  of  the  Tarentaiae 
towards  ihe  S. ,  is  a  pleasant  object  for  an  afternoon  s  excursion.  Ascent 
21 12  hrs. ,  guide  unnecessary,  6  fr. 

From  Courmayeur  to  Martigny.  Those  who  wish  to  avoid  the 
digression  by  Aosta  and  the  Great  St.  Bernard  on  their  return-journey, 
may  prefer  the  following  route :  through  the  narrow  Val  de  Ferret,  with  its 
numerous  glaciers,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  enormous  muses  of  the 
Qiani  (13,133')  7  the  Joratses  (13,799'),  and  the  Olaeier  of  Trioiet;  then 
over  the  Col  de  Ferret  (8176'),  the  frontier  of  Italy  and  Switzerland 
(Mont  Dolent,  12,566',  to  the  IH.W.  of  the  Col,  has  since  1860  formed  the 
boundary  of  France,  Italy,  and  Switzerland),  which  commands  a  most 
striking  view ,  especially  when  reached  from  the  direction  of  Martigny  \ 
thence  by  Orsiiret  (p.  lS4) ,  where  the  valley  of  Ferret  descends  to  the 
valley  of  Entremont  and  the  Great  St.  Bernard  route ;  Martigny  is  thus 
reached  in  14  hrs. :  Col  de  Ferret  6,  Orsieres  5,  Martigny  3  hrs.  A  guide 
should- be  taken  as  far  as  the  Chalets  de  Ferret  (6  fr. ,  to  Orsieres  12  fr.), 
and  provisions  carried. 

Beyond  Entrhves  (see  above)  a  good  path  crosses  a  branch  of  the  Doire, 
which  flows  through  the  Ferret  valley,  follows  the  r.  bank  as  far  as  the 
Chalets  of  Pr4  Sec^  and  then  recrosses  to  the  1.  bank.  (The  path  along 
the  r.  bank  is  soon  lost  among  the  huge  rocky  fragments  of  a  moraine.^ 
After  3  hrs.  the  head  of  the  valley  is  reached,  opposite  a  series  of  pre- 
cipitous slopes  which  are  connected  on  the  1.  with  the  fast  snow-peak^  of 
the  Mont  Blanc  chain,  l^ear  the  last  of  these  the  path  crosses  the  pass. 
By  keeping  to  the  1.  a  mistake  can  hardly  be  made.  The  traveller  must 
be  careful  to  avoid  the  two  following  paths,  which  are  well  trodden  and 
likely  to  mislead.  From  the  highest  chalet  in  the  valley  (Saljoan)y  a 
chalet  of  considerable  size  is  visible  exactly  in  front,  apparently  half- 
way up  the  mountain;  past  this  runs  a  well-beaten  path,  which  leads  to 
the  Hospice  of  St.  Bernard  (in  i^'^  hrs.).  The  other  path,  which  diverges 
farther  on,  leads  to  the  same  destination. 

From  the  Col  de  Ferret  (to  which  there  is  a  steep  ascent  of  I'ja  hr. 
from  Saljoan,  past  the  moraine  of  the  Olaeier  du  Mont  Dolent)  the  path 
leads  to  the  chalets  of  Le  Folly  (5240'),  from  which  a  well-defined  path 
leads  through  the  "N.  (Swiss)  part  of  the  Val  de  Ferrety  by  it  Seiloz, 
Praz  de  Fort  (where  a  carriage-road  begins),  Ville  d'  Issert ,  and  80m  la 
Proz^  to  (4  hrs.)  OrsUres  (p.  !^).  During  the  ascent  in  the  S.  valley  of 
Ferret,  the  retrospective  view  of  the  S.E.  side  of  the  chain  of  Mont  Blanc 
as  far  as  the  Col  de  la  Seigne  is  very  fine.  From  the  summit  of  the  Col 
de  Ferret,  the  view  extends  to  Martigny  and  the  W.  portion  of  the  Bernese 
Alps,  the  Diablerets,  the  Oldenhorn,  and  the  Sanetsch. 

The  route  from  Courmayeur  to  Aosta  is  hlglily  attractive.  The 
vegetation ,  which  becomes  more  luxuriant  as  the  road  descends, 
the  picturesque  waterfalls,  the  magnificent  view  of  Mont  Blanc 
and  other  snow-peaks  to  the  W.^  the  S.,  and  afterwards  to  the  N., 
all  combine  to  render  the  Valley  of  Aosta  interesting  even  to 
those  who  are  familiar  with  the  finest  scenery  of  Switzerland. 
Cretinism  in  its  most  repulsive  form  Is  unfortunately  very  pre- 
valent in  this  beautiful  valley.  It  is  sometimes  ascribed  to  the 
badness  of  the  water,  but  there  is  little  doubt  that  it  is  chiefly 
caused  by  the  squalid  habits  of  the  natives.  At  Martigny,  where 
sanitary  matters  are  better  attended  to  than  formerly,  the  disease 
is  on  the  decrease,  while  in  the  Aosta  valley  the  reverse  is  the 
case,  the  proportion  of  cretins  being  now  2  per  cent  of  the  po- 
pulation. There  are  no  good  inns  between  Pr^  St.  Bidier  and 
Aosta. 


put  ST.  DroiER.  55.  Route.     233 

Passing  (2'/4  M.)  PalSsieux ,  the  road  crosses  the  Doire  to 
(3/4  M.)  Fri  St.  Didier  (Rosa;  Posta),  a  village  with  baths,  where 
the  road  to  the  Little  8t.  Bernard  diverges  to  the  S.W.  Near 
the  hot  springs  (*/4  M.  lower  down)  the  stream  forces  its  way 
between  perpendicular  rocks  towards  the  Dora  valley. 

From  Pri  8t.  Didier  to  Bourg  St.  Maurice  over  the  Little  St. 
Bernard ,  8  hrs. ,  a  route  preferred  by  many  to  that  over  the  Col  de  la 
Seigne  (p.  230),  especially  in  doubtful  weather.  The  carriage  -  road ,  now 
nearly  completed,  traverses  the  valley  of  the  Thuille  y  passing  through  La 
Thuille  (accommodation,  if  necessary,  at  Brigadier  Morers),  and  Serratiy 
near  the  Cantine  des  Eaux  Rouges  {}\^  hr.  below  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
Alpine  fare) ,  and  ascends  to  the  pass  of  the  Littla  St.  Bernard  (724(y  \ 
summit  indicated  by  a  granite  pillar),  whence  the  view  of  the  Mont  Blanc 
range  is  very  imposing.  Since  1860  this  pass  has  formed  the  boundary  be- 
tween France  and  Italy.  On  the  8.  side  of  the  pass,  5  hrs.  from  Pr^  St. 
Didier,  3  hrs.  from  Bourg  St.  Maurice,  is  a  hospice  similar  to  that  on  Oreat 
St.  Bernard  (p.  236),  and  adjoining  it  an  inn. 

The  descent  is  long  and  gradual,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
upper  valley  of  the  Is^re  (La  Tarentaise)  and  the  mountains  of  Savoy  the 
wiiole  way ;  the  road  then  passes  through  St.  Oermain  (becoming  steeper) 
and  Seez  y  and  reaches  Bourg  Bt.  Xaurioe  {*  Hdtel  des  Voyageurs)  y  a 
small  town  on  tlie  Is^re,  from  which  a  diligence  runs  daily  in  4i|2  hrs.  to 
Moutier  (en  Tarentaise) ,  a  small  town  with  salt-works,  and  thence  through 
Albertville  (high-road  to  Oeneva  by  Annecy,  see  p.  211)  in  about  6  hrs. 
to  Chamousset  (p.  209),  a  station  on  the  railway  from  C^teneva  to  3Iont  Cenis 
by  Chamb^ry  \  from  Chamousset  to  Chamb^ry  (p.  208)  in  1  hr.,  to  Greneva 
in  4  to  43|4  hrs.,  see  R.  50. 

From  Bourg  St.  Maurice  to  ChapiUy  see  p.  280. 

Beyond  Pr^  St.  Didier  the  road  passes  Morgex  (two  waterfalls 
beyond  the  village),  and  reaches  La  Salle  (with  a  ruined 
CAstle),  where  it  descends  into  the  valley  and  crosses  the  stream. 
It  then  ^scends  the  steep  r.  bank  of  the  Doire ,  which  dashes 
over  the  rocks  far  below.  Opposite  lies  Avise,  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  rocky  eminence  and  overtopped  by  an  old  tower.  Liverogne^ 
a  small  and  dirty  village.  Arvier  (Cantine  des  Voyageurs)  is 
noted  for  its  wine.  The  road  then  traverses  a  plantation  of 
walnut-trees,  and  crosses  to  the  1.  bank  near  ViUeneuve^  the  most 
beautiful  point  in  the  valley.  On  a  lofty  rock  above  the  village 
stands  the  ruined  Castle  of  Argent.  The  chateaux  of  St.  Pierre 
and  La  Sarra  are  next  passed.  On  the  opposite  bank,  at  the 
mouth  of  the   Val  de  Cogne^  rises  the  castle  of 

Aosta  (p.  239),  28  M.  distant  from  Courmayeur. 

56.     From  Hartigny  to  Aosta.     Great  St.  Bernard. 

iV\t  hrs. :  from  Martigny  to  the  Hospice  U^js,  thence  to  Aosta  6  hrs.  (from 
Aosta  to  the  Hospice  8,  from  the  Hospice  to  Martigny  9i|2  hrs-)i  carriage- 
road  to  the  Cantine  de  Proz  (p.  235),  thence  to  St.  Remy  (4  hrs.)  bridle- 
path \  can-iage-road  again  to  Aosta.  Chiide  unnecessary.  As  the  ascent  to 
(12' J2  M.)  Orsi^res  is  slight,  the  traveller  had  better  drive  thus  far,  or 
to  Eourg  St.  Pierre,  walk  thence  to  St.  Remy,  and  drive  from  St.  Remy 
to  Aosta,  so  as  to  accomplish  the  whole  journey  in  one  day.  Diligence 
in  sununer  daily  at  6.  45  a.  m.  from  Martigny-  to  Bourg  St.  Pierre  in 
5ij-i  hrs. ;  one-horse  carriage  to  Orsi^res  6 — 8,  to  Liddes  14  fr.  Carriage 
(for  1  to  3  pers.)  from  Martigny  to  the  Cantine  de  Proz,  7  M.  from  the 
Hospice,   drawn  by  a  mule,   which  is  ridden  thence  to  the  Hospice,  30  fr. 


234     Boute  56.  ORSlkKES,  From  MaHigny 

Mule  from  Liddes  to  St.  Bemy  over  the  St.  Bernard  10  fr.  \  one-horse  carr. 
from  St.  Remy  to  Aosta,  1  pers.  10,  2  pers.  12,  3  pers.  15  fr. 

The  Or  eat  St.  Bernard  is  the  least  interesting  of  the  Alpine 
passes ,  with  the  exception  of  those  parts  of  the  route  near  Aosta  and 
Hartigny.  Those  who  have  to  choose  between  the  Simplon,  St.  GK>tthard, 
Spliigen,  Bernardino,  and  St.  Bernard,  should  not  be  misled  by  the  repu- 
tation of  the  latter.  If  the  traveller  has  already  traversed  the  pass  to 
Aosta  and  is  returning  by  the  same  route,  he  may,  for  variety,  take  the 
footoath  which  diverges  to  the  W.  of  the  road  at  Or$Ure»^  passes  the  Lac 
de  Champey  on  the  W.  side  of  Mont  Cologne^  and  rejoins  the  road  atVallette. 
He  may  also  leave  the  road  at  Sembranehery  ascend  Mont  ChenUn  (4408') 
(beautiful  view  of  Hartigny  and  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  down  to  the 
Lake  of  (Geneva),  and  descend  to  Martigny  through  beech-woods.  These 
two  routes  are  longer,   but  more  interesting  than  the  main  road. 

Martigny  (15580,  see  p.  202.     Beyond  (8/4  M.)  Martigny  le 

Bourg  (p.  202)  the  road  crosses  the  (V2  M.)  DraiM«,    a  few 

hundred  paces  from  which  the  road  to  Chamouny  diverges  to  the 

r.  (R.  54).     The  St.  Bernard  road  winds  through  a  narrow  valley, 

watered  by  the  Dranse,  and  leads  by  Le  Brocard,  Le  Bourgeaud, 

and  Les  VaUettes,  to  (88/4  M.)  Boyemier  (20379.  The  Dranse  forces 

its  way  through  a  narrow  gorge,    its  course  is  Impeded  by  huge 

masses  of  rock,  especially  near  the  (1^2  M.)  OaUerie  de  la  Mon- 

naie  (2362Q,  a  tunnel  70  yds.  long,  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.    In 

1818  a  great  fall   of  rocks   took   place  here   in   consequence   of 

the  bursting  of  a  lake   in  the   Val  de  Bagne,    which  branches 

off  to  the  E.  near  Sembrancher.     Comp.  p.  240. 

Detached  blocks  from  the  Glacier  de  Oitroz  had  intercepted  the  course 
of  the  E.  branch  of  the  Dranse^  which  traverses  the  VtU  de  Bagne.  A  lake 
was  thus  formed,  lOOC/  yds.  in  length,  220  yds.  in  width,  and  ISO'  deep, 
which  suddenly  burst  its  barriers,  rushed  into  the  valley,  and  caused  ter- 
rible devastation.  Bovemier  owed  its  safety  to  a  projecting  rock.  In  1^5 
a  similar  catastrophe  occurred.  Beautiful  excursion  to  the  Vol  de  Bagne^ 
see  B.  57. 

At  (I72  M.)  Sembraaolier  (2329^)  (Inn;  mule  or  guide  to 
the  Pierre-k-Voir ,  p.  202,  5  fr.),  the  two  streams  which  form 
the  Dranse  unite,  one  descending  from  the  Val  de  Bagne ^  the 
other  from  the  Val  d'Entremont  and  the  St.  Bernard,  On  a  hill 
are  the  ruins  of  a  castle.  To  the  S.  W.  of  Sembrancher  rises 
Mont  Catogne  (84610. 

(41/2  M.)  Oni^res  (2894^  (*E6tel  des  Alpes,  moderate),  9t 
the  junction  of  the  valleys  of  Ferret  and  Entremont  (p.  233), 
possesses  a  remarkable  and  very  ancient  tower  resembling  that  of 
St.  Pierre  (see  below).  The  road  crosses  the  Pranse,  the  channel 
of  which  is  so  deep  that  the  stream  is  rarely  visible.  The  view 
obtained  beyond  the  village  is  the  most  picturesque  on  this  route ; 
the  background  is  formed  by  the  snowy  pyramid  of  Mont  Velan 
(p.  235).  Extensive  eorn'flelds  cover  the  undulating  country 
which  slopes  towards  the  Dranse.  The  scenery  becomes  grander 
when  the  forest  of  St.  Pierre  is  reached. 

(5  M.)  Liddet  (43900  (Hdtel  d' Angleterre,  Vnion,  rustic  inns 
with  hotel  prices)  is  a  considerable  village.  One-horse  carriage 
to  Martigny  10^   mule  to   the  Hospice  5  fr.     The  n^w  road  tQ 


I 


to  Ao9ta,  CANTINE  DE  PROZ.         56.  RouU.    235 

St.  Pierre  winds  along  the  slope  of  the  mountain ;  the  old  road 
is  shorter  for  pedestrians.  The  wooden  frames,  which  the  tra- 
veller will  observe  here,  are  used  for  drying  the  corn. 

(33/4  M.)  Bowff  St.  Pierre  or  St.  Pierre  Mont  Joux  (5367^ 
(^Cheval  Blane;  Croix ^  both  very  poor;  Au  Dejeuner  de  Napoliony 
tolerable  but  dear) ,  a  dirty  village ,  possesses  an  interesting  old 
church,  dating  from  1010.  On  the  wall  near  the  tower  is  a 
Roman  milestone. 

Plearant  excunion  from  St.  Pierre  to  the  Talfl«r«y  Yaltey  O  H.  in  lengtb), 
through  which  a  good  path  leads  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Dranst  de  VaUoreif. 
A  little  above  its  influx  into  the  Val  d'Entremont  the  river  forms  a  pic- 
turesque waterfall.  In  2  hrs.  the  traveller  reaches  the  Chalets  de  VaUorey 
(7191'),  in  an  impoatng  situation.  The  background  is  formed  by  the  Olacier 
de  Valtoregy  and  others  uniting  with  it,  (1.)  that  of  the  SoMtdon^  descend- 
ing from  the  Orand-Combin ,  and  (r.)  that  of  the  Tzeudet.  Beautiful  view 
of  the  dazzling  snows  of  Mont  Velan  and  the  serrated  rocks  of  the  Aiguilles 
de  Yoitorey.  —  The  night  is  passed  at  the  chalet  by  those  who  are  about 
to  cross  the  Col  des  Mai»an$  Blanches  (12,196')  1  or  the  Col  de  Sonadon 
(11,22CK)  to  the  Val  de  Bagne  (K.  57),  or  the  Aiguilles  de  Valsorey  to  the 
Val  Ollomont  (p.  241),  or  by  those  who  propose  to  ascend  the  Orand-Combin 
(see  below). 

Beyond  St.  Pierre  the  road  crosses  a  deep  gorge ,  iu  which 
there  is  a  beautiful  waterfall  to  the  I.  above  the  bridge.  The 
celebrated  passage  of  the  Alps  by  Napoleon  was  begun  on  16th 
May,  1800,  and  occupied  four  days.  The  St.  Bernard  had  been 
reported  by  Marescot,  chief  of  the  engineers,  as  ^barely  passable* 
for  artillery.  ^It  is  possible :  let  us  start  then,*  was  the  energetic 
reply  of  Napoleon.  The  part  which  most  severely  tried  the  troops 
was  from  St.  Pierre  to  the  summit,  the  pass  being  still  covered 
with  snow.  The  artillery  carriages  were  taken  to  pieces  and  packed 
on  mules ,  the  ammunition  was  transported  in  the  same  way, 
wKile  the  guns  were  placed  on  sledges,  and  dragged  over  the  snow 
by  the  soldiers  who  received  1200  fr.  for  each  cannon.  At  the 
Hospice  each  soldier  partook  of  the  hospitality  of  the  brethren. 

The  new  road,  hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  and  avoiding  the  steep 
parts  of  the  old  route,  traverses  the  forest  of  St.  Pierre  and  the 
DiflU  de  Charreire.     Scenery  picturesque,  several  waterfalls. 

The   (SVs  M.l   Oantine  de  Froi   (5912')   is  a  solitory  inn 

(moderate)  at  the  beginning  of  the  Plan  de  Proz  (5866 '),   the 

highest  pasture  in  the  valley.     A  one-horse  carr.  to  Liddes   or 

Martigny,  and  a  mule  to  the  Hospice  or  St.  Remy  may  be  obtained 

here.     The  carriage -road  terminates  here.     Several  glaciers,  of 

which  the  Olacier  de  Menouve  is   conspicuous,    descend   on  the 

1.  as  far  as  the  lofty  margin  of  the  valley. 

The  Mont  Yelaa  (12,057'),  a  white  pyramid  rising  in  the  background, 
to  the  B.  of  Great  St.  Bernard,  commands  a  magnificent  view.  It  is  best 
ascended  from  the  Cantine  de  Proz  (in  6  hrs.):  two  guides  necessary, 
each  25  fr. ;  Dan.  and  Emnum.  Barley  at  St.  Pierre,  and  Seraphin  Darsai^ 
SOB  of  the  landlord  of  the  Cantine  de  Proz,  are  recommended.  The 
Grand  C<«i.biii,  or  Oraffeneire  (14,163')^  the  17.E.  neighbour  of  tf ont  Velan, 
was  as^nded  for  the  first  time  In  1861. 


236     Route  56.      ST.  BERNARD  HOSPICE.     From  MarUgny 

The  bridle-path  crosses  the  pastures  of  the  Plan  de  Proz 
in  20  min. ,  ascends  the  wild  Defile  de  Marengo  (6312'),  and 
in  1^4  hr.  reaches  two  stone  huts,  one  of  them  a  refuge  for  cattle, 
the  other  the  old  Morgue,  or  receptacle  for  the  bodies  of  travellers 
who  had  perished  in  the  snow.  It  neiLt  crosses  the  Dranse  by 
the  bridge  of  Nudri  (TSdGQ,  skirts  the  W.  slope  of  the  mountain, 
and  leads  through  the  dreary  VaUie  dea  Morts  to  the  (IV4  l^'-) 
Hospice.  The  iron  cross  on  the  wayside ,  20  min.  from  the 
Hospice,  was  erected  to  the  memory  of  Ptre  Francois  Cart,  who 
perished  at  this  spot  in  November  1845. 

*  The  Hospice  of  St.  Bernard  (SllOQ,  a  monastery  situated 
at  the  summit  of  the  pass,  consists  of  two  larg^  buildings.  One 
of  these  contains  numerous  apartments  with  wooden  partitions, 
for  the  reception  of  travellers ;  the  other  and  smaller  (H6tel  de 
St.  Lotus)  is  a  refuge  in  case  of  Are,  and  serves  also  as  a  granary 
and  lodging  for  poor  travellers.  On  arriving,  strangers  are  re- 
ceived and  welcomed  by  one  of  the  brethren,  who  conducts  them 
to  a  room  and  provides  refreshments;  and  if  they  arrive  shortly 
before  dinner  or  supper  (at  12  and  6),  a  place  is  assigned  them 
at  the  brethren's  table.  Most  of  the  monks  are  intelligent  and 
well-educated  men,  and  they  readily  give  travellers  every  infor- 
mation in  their  power.  French  only  is  spoken.  The  table  is  simply 
but  amply  furnished;  Fridays  and  Saturdays  are  fast-days.  Tra- 
vellers are  accommodated  gratuitously ,  but  few  will  deposit  in 
the  alms-box  less  than  they  would  have  paid  at  an  hotel.  Libe- 
rality should,  however,  be  shown,  in  consideration  of  the  great 
expense  attending  the  transport  of  the  necessaries  of  life  to  such 
a  height. 

Various  accounts  are  given  of  the  origin  of  the  name  of  St.  Bernard 
as  applied  to  this  pass ;  the  most  generally  received  is  that  Bernard  de 
Menthon  (p.  211),  a  pious  ecclesiastic  who  was  canonised  after  his  death, 
founded  the  convent  in  962.  The  brotherhood  consists  of  from  10  to  15 
Augustinian  monks  and  7  attendants  (maroniers) ,  whose  office  it  is  to 
receive  and  accommodate  strangers  gratuitously,  and  to  render  assistance 
to  travellers  in  danger  during  the  snowy  season,  which  here  lasts  nearly 
nine  months.  In.  this  work  of  benevolence  the  inferior  creation  is  taught 
to  lend  its  assistance.  The  breed  of  dogs  employed  at  the  Hospice  is 
universally  known  and  admired.  Their  keen  sense  of  smell  enables  them 
to  track  and  discover  travellers  exposed  to  peril  by  heavy  falls  of  snow, 
numbers  of  whom  have  been  rescued  by  these  noble  and  sagacious  animals. 
The  stock  is  believed  to  have  come  originally  from  the  Spanish  Pyrenees, 
hut  the  genuine  old  breed  is  now  extinct. 

The  Monastery  of  St.  Bernard  comprises  a  society  of  about  40  mem- 
bers. Some  of  the  brethren  minister  in  the  Hospice  on  the  Simplon 
(p.  258) ;  others  perform  ecclesiastical  functions.  The  sick  and  aged  have 
an  asylum  at  Martigny.  St.  Bernard  is  the  highest  winter  habitation  in  the 
Alps.  Humboldt  in  his  ^Kosmos"  mentions  that  the  mean  temperature  at 
the  Hospice  of  St.  Bernard  (45''  N.  latitude)  is  30°  Fahr.  (in  winter  15% 
spring  '&'*,  summer  48°,  autumn  32°) ,  and  that  such  a  low  temperature 
would  only  be  found  on  the  sea-level  at  a  latitude  of  75°  (the  S.  Cape  of 
Spitzbergen).  Like  the  St.  Ootthard  (p.  82),  the  St.  Bernard  is  not  a  single 
mountain,  but  a  group. 

During  the  Italian  campaigns   of  1798,  1799,  and  18(X),  the  pass  waa 


to  Aa»ia.  GREAT  ST.  BERNARD.       56,  BouU.     237 

crossed  by  several  hoBdred  thottsand  soldiers,  botl>  French  and  Austrian. 
In  1799  the  Austrians  endeavoured  to  avoid  the  hospice,  but  after  several 
fierce  engagements  the  French  remained  masters  of  the  pass,  and  kept  a 
garrison  of  180  men  in  the  hospice  during  a  whole  year.  INapoleon's  famous 
passage  has  already  been  mentioned  (p.  236).  It  is  also  an  historical  fact 
that  the  Romans  made  use  of  this  route,  B.  C.  100.  After  the  foundation 
of  Augusta  Praetoria  Salcusorum  (Aosta,  B.  C.  26)  it  became  more 
frequented.  Ccecina  (A.  D.  69)  crossed  it  with  his  legions  and  the  Gallic 
and  Qerman  auxiliaries,  when  marching  against  Otho,  in  order  to  bring 
speedy  succour  to  the  fortified  towns  of  Cisalpine  Qaul,  Milan,  ^ovare, 
etc.,  which  had  already  declared  in  favour  of  Vitellius.  Constantine  caused 
the  road  to  be  improved  in  339.  The  Lombards  made  the  passage  about 
547;  an  uncle  of  Charlemagne  inarched  an  army  of  30,000  men  by  this 
route  into  Italy  in  773,  and,  according  to^some,  gave  his  name  to  the 
pass  j  part  of  the  army  of  Frederick  Barbarossa  also  crossed  in  1166,  under 
the  command  of  Berthold  of  Zahringen. 

The  monastery  was  very  wealthy  in  the  middle  ages.  The 
beneficence  of  its  object  was  widely  recognised  by  extensive 
grants,  chiefly  by  the  emperors  of  Germany,  and  gifts  from  various 
parts  of  Christendom.  At  one  period  it  possessed  no  fewer  than 
80  benefices,  but  was  subsequently  impoverished  by  various 
vicissitudes.  The  30 — 40,000  fr.  required  for  its  annual  support 
are  chiefly  derived  from  subsidies  from  the  French  and  Italian 
governments,  and  from  annual  collections  made  in  Switzerland; 
the  gifts  of  travellers ,  it  must  be  said  with  regret ,  form  a  very 
insigniflcaut  portion  of  the  sum.  Of  late  years  16 — 20,000 
travellers  have  been  annually  accommodated,  while  the  sum  they 
have  contributed  barely  amounts  to  what  would  be  a  moderate  hotel 
charge  for  1000  guests.  The  expenses  of  the  establishment  are 
increasing.  Provisions  are  generally  brought  from  Aosta,  and 
in  July,  August,  and  September,  about  twenty  horses  are  employed 
daily  in  the  transport  of  fuel  from  the  Yal  de  Ferret  (p.  233), 
12  M.  distant. 

The  present  massive  edifice  dates  from  the  middle  of  the 
16th  cent. ,  the  church  from  1680.  The  large  rooms  are  heated 
throughout  the  whole  year;  on  the  ground  floor  are  the  stables 
and  magazines ,  above  which  are  the  kitchen ,  refectory ,  and 
sleeping  apartments  for  the  poor;  in  the  upper  storey  the  cells 
of  the  i^onks ,  and  70  to  80  beds  for  travellers  of  the  better 
classes.  The  walls  of  the  refectory  are  hung  with  engravings  and 
pictures,  the  gifts  of  grateful  travellers.  The  small  room  adjoining 
it  contains  a  collection  of  ancient  and  modern  medals,  portraits, 
relics  found  in  the  environs,  and  fragments  of  votive  brass  tablets 
offered  to  Jupiter  Penninus  after  escape  from  danger.  Another 
room  in  the  upper  storey  contains  philosophical  instruments  and 
a  small  natural  history  collection.  The  visitors'  books  contain 
many  well  known  names.  The  monument  erected  by  Napoleon  I. 
to  General  Desaix  (^h  Desaix,  mort  h  la  baiaiUe  de  Marengo') 
is  on  the  1.  side  of  the  chapel;  the  bas-relief,  representing 
the  death  of  the  General,  is  by  Moitte  (1806).     The  traveller  la 


238     BouU  66.      GBfiAT  ST.  BfiRNARD.     From  MarUgny 

frequently  awoke  at  a  Tery  early  hoar  in  the  morning  by  musical 
bells  playing  a  hymn  tune. 

Near  the  hospice  is  situat^'d  the  Morgue,  a  depository  for  the 
bodies  of  persons  who  have  perished  in  the  snow.  The  extreme 
cold  retards  decomposition  so  remarkably  that  the  features  of 
the  dead  are  sometimes  recognisable  years  after  death. 

The  traveller  will  hardly  quit  the  Hospice  without  a  feeling 

of  veneration  and  compassion  for  this  devoted  fraternity.     They 

generally  begin  their  career  at  the  age  of  18  or  19.     After  about 

fifteen  years'  service  the  severity  of  the  climate  has  undermined 

their  constitutions,   and    they    are    compelled    to  descend  with 

broken  health  to  the  milder  dimate  of  Martigny  or  some  other 

dependency.      The    thoughtless    traveller,    in   the   pleasure  and 

novelty  of  the  scene,   is  too  apt  to   forget  the  dreariness   of  the 

eight  or  nine  months  of  winter,  when  all  the  wayfarers  are  poor, 

when  the  cold  is  intense,  the    snows    of   great   depth ,    and   the 

dangers   from    storms    or    ^tourmentes'   frequent    and  imminent. 

It  is   at  this  period  that  the  privations  of  these  heroic  men  are 

most  severe ,   and  their  services  to   their  fellow-creatures  most 

invaluable;    all  honour  to  their  self-denial  and  devotion! 

Instead  of  returning  to  Martigny  by  the  same  route,  the  traveller  may 
cross  the  Col  de  Fenitre  (88550  >  which  must  not  be  confounded  with  the 
pass  of  that  name  from  the  Yal  de  Bagne  to  Aosta  (p.  241),  and  descend  thiough 
the  N.  (Swiss)  part  of  the  Vol  de  Ferret  (p.  232),  wliich  runs  parallel  to 
that  of  Entremont,  and  is  but  little  longer.  Ouide  necessary.  The  Chena- 
letla  (94780  and  the  Mont  Mort  (9403') ,  both  of  which  may  be  ascended 
from  the  Hospice  (with  guide)  in  I1J2 — 2  hrs.,  afford  a  magnificent  view  of 
Mont  Blanc  and  its  glaciers. 

The  path  descending  on  the  S.  side  passes  between  a  small 

lake  and  the  PUm  de  Jupiter  y   on  which  a  temple  dedicated  to 

Jupiter  Penninus  once  stood.     The  mountain  has  thence  derived 

its  Italian  name  of  Monte  Jove,  locally  Mont  JouXj  and  the  range 

is  sometimes  termed  the  Pennine  Alps.     At  the  end  of  the  lake 

stands  the  frontier  pillar  between   Switzerland    and  Italy.     The 

path  next  traverses  La    Vaeherie,   a  green  pasturoi,  where  the 

cattle  of  the  Hospice  graze,  with  some  chalets,  and  the  CantinCj 

or  road-mender's  house.   To  the  W.,  above  the  Col  de  Fenitre  (see 

above)  rises    the   Pain    de  8uere  (OSOS^),    recognisable    by    its 

sugar-loaf  form  (not  to  be  confounded  with  Mont  Gatogne,  p.  234, 

also  called  Pain  de  Sucre  by  the  Yaudois).     To  the  1.  of  the  path 

is  a  stone  in  memory  of  M.  Martinet  of  Aosta,  a  member  of  the 

Italian  chamber  of  deputies,    who  perished  here  in  1858.   The 

path  follows  the  £.  slope,  and  descends  gradually  to  St.  Remy. 

From  St.  Remy  to  the  Hospice.  In  ascending,  the  pedestrian 
should  keep  to  the  r.  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain.  From  the  (i*)4  hr.) 
Cantine  mentioned  above,  he  may  proceed  to  the  r.,  direct  towarai  the 
saddle  of  the  mountain.  The  cuhninating  point  of  the  pass  is  indicated  by 
a  pole  on  a  rock,  soon  after  passing  which  the  lake  and  the  monastery 
come  in  sight.    The  ascent  occupies  about  21(4  hrs.,  guide  iV\%  tt.)  super^ 

flttOUS. 


to  Aoiia,  AOSTA.  M.  n<mte.     239 

(1  br.)  St.  Bemy,  the  first  Italian  Tillage,  entirely  fills  the 

narrow   gorge.     The  custom-house  is  the  first  building  on  the  r. 

The  first  bouse  on  the  1.  is  the  H6iel  de»  Alpts  Penninet  (K.  2, 

B.  IV2  ^f • ;  one-horse  carr.   to  Aosta,   3  bra.  drive,  1  pers.  10, 

2  pers.  12,   3  pers.    15  fr. ;    mole  to  the  Hospice  3,  to  Liddes 

10  fr. ;  guide  to  the  Hospice  1^2  ^'0* 

From  SL  Remy  to  Courmayeur,  The  path,  which  crosses  the 
hrook  beyond  the  village,  leads  by  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  over  the  Gol 
de  la  Serena  (TSSS')  in  9—10  hrs.  to  Courmayeur  (p.  231) ,  to  which  it  is 
the  shortest  route  from  the  St.  Bernard,  but  somewhat  uninteresting. 

The  descent  from  St.  Remy  is  by  a  good  carriage-road.  The 
general  cultivation  of  both  sides  of  the  valley  begins  at  (2^4  M.) 
ftt«  Oy«ii,  and  becomes  richer  at  (1  M.)  Btronblei  (HHel  National; 
Lion  d'Or).  The  road  here  crosses  the  Buttitr^  the  vaUey  of 
which  soon  expands.  The  solitary  inn  of  La  Ckue  (3  M.)  on  the 
hill  side  affords  poor  accommodation;  1^2  ^-  farther,  near  two 
houses,  is  an  excellent  spring.  The  defile  of  (2^4  M.)  Gignod 
(2398')  was  formerly  defended  by  a  square  tower,  erected  by  the 
Romans,  and  stiU  standing.  The  scenery  becomes  more  pleas- 
ing, the  vittages  more  picturesque,  and  the  southern  character  of 
the  Italian  side  of  the  Alps  more  perceptible.  To  the  1.  opens  the 
Val  PeUtna,  fro^m  which  the  glacier-passes  mentioned  at  pp.  240, 
241  lead  to  the  Val  de  Bagne,  the  Val  d'H^rens,  and  Zermatt. 
The  eye  rests  on  a  scene  rich  in  corn,  wine,  and  oil ;  the  mur- 
muring of  brooks  is  heard  in  every  direction,  and  a  number  of 
snowy  'Summits  hitherto  concealed  become  visible.  Beyond 
(I1/2  M.)  Bignaye  the  extensive  vineyards  of  (2*/4  M.)  Aosta 
begin ;  to  the  1.  is  seen  Monte  Rosa,  and  to  the  r.  Mont  Blanc. 
This  prospect,  combined  with  the  view  of  the  handsome  town 
of  Aosta  and  its  fertile  valley,  is  an  appropriate  termination  to 
the  excursion. 

Aotta  (1912')  (*HdTKL  DO  MoNTBLANC,  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
town,  on  the  road  to  Courmayeur,  ijz  M.  from  the  post-office,  B.  2  fr.  and 
upwards,  B.  li|«,  D.  4,  A.  1  fr.  ^  ^Coubonne  in  the  Place  Charles 
Albert,  next  door  to  the  post-office,  conveniently  situated  for  diligence 
travellers,  less  expensive.  Carriages  may  be  hired  at  both  these  hotels. 
Opposite  the  latter  is  a  reading-room,  provided  with  English  and  other 
newspapers.  Travellers  admitted  gratis.  —  One-horse  carriage  to  Chatillon 
15,  two -horse  2&  fr.,  to  Courmayeur  18  and  SO  fr.  —  Ko  supplementary 
carriages  are  provided  for  diligence  passengers  as  in  Germany  and  Switzerland), 
the  Augusta  Praetoria  Salassorum  of  the  Romans,  and  now  the 
capital  of  theltalian  province  of  the  same  name,  with  7760  in 
hab.,  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Buttier 
and  the  Doire  (p.  231).  The  Emperor  Augustus  gave  his  name 
to  the  place,  and  garrisoned  it  with  3000  men  of  the  Prastorian 
cohorts.  The  Town  WalUj  flanked  with  strong  towers,  a 
double  Oateway  somewhat  resembling  the  Porta  Nigra  of  Treves, 
a  magnificent  Triumphal  Archj  constructed  of  huge  blocks  of 
hewn  stone,  and  ornamented  with  ten  Corinthian  half-columns, 
the  arcb  of  a  Bridge  ^  and  the  ruins  of  a  BasiUea  are   the  most 


240     Route  66.  AOSTA. 

inteiesting  Roman  antiquities.  The  walls  are  reached  in  a  few 
minutes  by  one  of  the  streets  leading  to  the  N.  from  the  Place 
Charles  Alhert.  The  other  relics  may  be  inspected  in  about  */2  ^' 
The  traveller  follows  the  principal  street  towards  the  £.  from, 
the  Place  and  soon  reaches  the  Roman  Gate,  and  a  few  min. 
farther  the  Triumphal  Arch.  In  a  straight  direction,  200  paces 
beyond  the  latter,  the  narrow  Rue  du  Pont  Romain  crosses  a 
brook  by  means  of  a  Roman  Bridge ,  the  massive  construction 
of  which  is  seen  by  descending  a  few  yds.  to  the  1.  The  Place 
may  now  be  regained  in  ^4  hr.  —  The  modern  Cathedral  possesses 
a  singular  portal,  with  some  frescoes,  and  the  Last  Supper  in 
terracotta,  gaudily  painted.  Near  the.  church  of  St,  Ours  are 
cloisters  with  interesting  early-Romanesque  marble  columns.  Modern 
Town  Hall  in  the  Place  Charles  Albert,  or  market-place.  A 
French  patois  is  spoken  in  this  valley,  from  Gourmayeur  near 
its  head  down  to  Chatillon. 

The  *Becca  di  Nona,  or  Bee  de  Ome  Beures  (10,384'),  which  riaea  to 
the  8.  of  Aosta,  commands  a  superb  view  of  the  Alps.  A  good  bridle-path 
ascends  to  the  summit  in  6<{2  hrs.,  passing  a  small  inn  three-quarters  of 
the  way  up.  —  The  view  is  still  more  extensive  from  the  *Kont  Smiliui, 
or  Pointe  de  ValUe  (11,667'),  and  moreover  embraces  the  Ohraian  Alps,  the 
Grand  Paradis,  the  Grivola,  etc.  (no  difficulty  for  experienced  mountaineers  5 
guide  necessary). 

From  Aosta  to  Zermatt  (p.  269)  the  shortest  route  is  through 
the  Val  Pellina,  and  over  the  Col  de  Valpelline  (11,686')^  a  magnificent 
glacier-expedition ,  but  only  practicable  for  travellers  accustomed  to  the 
ice,  attended  by  able  guides.  From  Aosta  to  the  chalets  of  Prirayen 
(p.  246)  9  hrs.,  thence  to  Zermatt  12—14  hrs.,  according  to  the  state  of 
the  ice  and  snow.  From  Prerayen  a  difficult  ascent  over  the  Olader  de 
Cih  des  (Hans  to  the  pass,  which  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  THe  Blanche  (12,903')-, 
then  across  the  Stock,  Tiefenmatten,  and  Zmutt  glaciers. 

From  Aosta  to  Chatillon,  and  over  the  Matter joch  to  Zer- 
matt, see  p.  269^  over  the  Col  de  Colon  to  Evolena,  see  p.  246;  over 
the  Col  de  Fenitre  or  the  Col  de  Crite  Siche  to  the  Val  de  Bagne, 
see  p.  241.  From  Aosta  to  Courmayeur  and  Chamouny  (tour  of 
Mont  Blanc),  see  R.  55. 

57.   From  Martigny  to  Aosta  by  the   Col   de 
Fendtre.     Val  de  Bagne. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  234. 
From  Martigny  to  Mauvoisin  S^ja  hrs.  (Sembrancher  2^%,  Chable  \}\i, 
Champsec  1 ,  Lourtier  ijs ,  Mauvoisin  3  hrs.).  To  Chable  a  good  road, 
thence  to  Champsec  bad,  beyond  Champsec  a  bridle-path.  —  Travellers 
about  to  proceed  to  Aosta  by  the  Col  de  Fenitre  (a  route  unattended 
with  danger ',  guide  necessary,  18  fr. ;  Justin  Felley  at  Chable,  Serapkin 
■Bessard  at  Lourtier,  and  Jos.  Gillioz  at  Champsec  are  recommended)  should 
pass  the  night  at  the  Hotel  du  Gietroz,  or  on  the  Alpe  Chermontane  (see 
below),  3  hrs.  from  Mauvoisin.  From  Chermontane  to  the  summit  of  the 
pass  2,  Valpellina  4,  Aosta  3' (2  hrs.  —  From  Valpellina  to  Aosta  a  good 
carriage-road. 

From  Martigny  ^  to  (8  M.)  Sembrancher ,  see  p..  234.  The 
road  into  the  Val  de  Bagne  diverges  here  to  the  1.  from  that 
to  Bourg  St.  Pierre  (p.  234),  and  Immediately  beyond  the  village 
crosses  the  Vranse.   The  lower  part  of  the  valley  is  well  cuHiyated. 


VAL  DE  BAGNE.  57.  Route.     241 

Chable  (2739')  (Hotel  Perrodin),  41/2  M.  (from  Semt^rancher ,  is 
picturesquely  situated.  In  the  background  the  snow-clad  Rouinette 
(12,727^,  to  the  1.  Mont  Pleureur  (12,1590,  and  the  Glacier  de 
Oitroz.     (Route  over  the  Col  d'Etablon  to  Riddes,  see  p.  253.) 

Beyond  Chable  the  road  turns  more  towards  the  S.  to  Pra- 
rayer  (on  this  side  of  which,  on  the  opposite  slope,  lies  Mon- 
tagnier),  Vetseglre^  ChampseCj  and  (I72  ^r.)  Lourtier  (3657'). 
Between  Lourtier  and  Mauvoisin  the  Dranse  forms  several  con- 
siderable waterfalls ;  at  Oranges  Neuvea  (4843'j,  ^/^  hr.  above 
Lourtier,  it  receives  a  considerable  contribution  from  the  Glacier 
de  Corba^siere,  which  descends  from  the  Grand  Combin  (p.  235). 
About  3^4  hr.  farther,  1/4  ^^-  beyond  Fionnay,  a  difficult  pass 
diverges  to  the  N.E.  over  the  Col  du  Cret  (10,328')  and  the 
Glacier  des  Ecoulayes  into  the  Val  d^Hiremence  (p.  244).  High 
above  the  stone  bridge  of  (3  hrs.)  Mauvoisin^  opposite  the 
Glacier  de  G^troz,  is  situated  the  unpretending  Hotel  du  Giitroz 
(7087')  in  the  midst  of  imposing  scenery. 

Beyond  Mauvoisin  the  bridle-path  crosses  the  former  bed  of 
the  lake  mentioned  at  p.  234.  The  Glacier  de  Breney  soon 
becomes  visible  to  the  1.,  and  the  Glacier  du  Mont  Durand  to 
the  r.,  both  descending  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  and  occa- 
sionally extending  across  it.  The  most  beautiful  and  extensive 
glacier  in  the  valley  is  the  Glacier  d'Hautemma,  or  de  Chermon- 
tanCj  at  the  base  of  which  are  situated  the  (3  hrs.)  Chalets  de 
Chermontane  (7316'),  a  considerable  Alpine  farm  (refreshments 
and  a  few  mattresses).  The  background  of  the  valley  is  encircled 
from  W.  to  E.  by  the  Tour  de  Boussine,  Gr.  Combin,  Mont 
Avril,  Mont  GeM,  Trouma  du  Bouc,  and  Piz  Hautemma. 

The  Col  de  Son  ad  on  (ll,22(y)  is  a  glacier-pass  leading  to  the  W. 
from  the  Chalets  de  Chermontane  over  the  glaciers  of  Mont  Durand  and 
Sonadon ,  along  the  S.  slope  of  the  Gr.  Combin ,  into  the  Valsorey 
Valley,  through  which  the  path  descends  to  Bourg  St.  Pierre  (p.  234).  — 
To  the  S.,  besides  the  Col  de  Fendtre  (see  below),  the  Col  deCrite 
Skche  (9475')  crosses  the  lower  extremity  of  the  Olacier  d'' Hautemma  and 
the  Olacier  de  CrSte  S^che^  and  leads  to  Valpellina  (see  below).  —  From 
Chermontane  over  the  Col  de  Chermontane  and  Olacier  de  Pihce  ^ 
or  by  the  Col  du  Mont  Rouge  and  Pas  de  Chivres  to  Evolena  in 
the  Val  d'H^rens,  see  p.  246- 

The  route  from  Chermontane  to  the  (2  hrs.)  summit  of  the  Col 
de  Fendtre  (9140'),  skirts  and  afterwards  crosses  the  Glacier 
de  Fenttre,  and  presents  no  difficulty.  To  the  r.  rises  the  Mont 
Avril  (10,861'),  which  may  be  ascended  with  tolerable  ease 
from  the  pass  in  2  hrs.  Pleasing  glimpse  of  the  Val  d'Ollomont. 
The  only  steep  part  of  the  S.  slope  is  near  the  Chalets  de 
Porchery^  but  the  descent  is  fatiguing.  A  bridle-path  leads 
thence  by  Les  Veaux  and  Ollomont  to  (4  hrs.)  Valpelline  (Inn 
at  the  baker's),  from  which  a  good  carriage-road  leads  to  (10^2  ^0 
AoBta  (see  p    239). 

Badek£b,  Switzerland.   6th  Edition.  16 


242 

58.   From  Bex  to  Sion.     Col  da  Cheville. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  146. 

12  hrs.  From  Bex  to  Gryon,  7*jx  M.  by  a  carriage-road  ^  beyond  Gryon 
a  bridle-path.  Guide  as  far  as  Avent  (p.  243)  desirable ;  one  may  generally 
be  procured  at  the  chalets  of  Anzeinduz.    Path  bad  at  places.    Horse  20  fr. 

The  route  over  the  Col  de  C heville^  which  cuts  oii'  the  right  angle 
formed  by  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  at  Martigny,  presents  an  almost  unin- 
terrupted series  of  wild  and  rocky  landscapes,  especially  on  the  Valais 
(S.)  side,  and  commands  an  extensive  panorama  of  the  Valley  of  the  Rhone 
towards  the  end  of  the  journey.  If  the  walk  be  considered  too  fatiguing 
for  one  day,  the  traveller  may  pass  the  night  at  Gryon. 

A  new  road  ascends  from  Bex  to  Gryon  in  zigzags,  which  the 
pedestrian  may  avoid  by  following  the  old  path.  Beautiful  view 
of  the  vadt  suow-flelds  of  the  Dent  du  Midi.  Towards  the  end 
of  the  road  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  the  village  of  Frenitre  in  the 
valley,  and  the  waterfalls  of  a  glacier  -  brook  which  here  unites 
with  the  Aven^on. 

Oryon  (3707')  is  a  considerable  village  (^Pension  Sauzet ;  Croix 

Blanche).     Guides  from  Gryon  to  Sion  demand  12  fr. 

From  Oryon  to  Ormonts  De$sus  by  the  Pas  de  la  Croix,  see 
p.  156. 

Near  the  last  house  of  the  village  (10  min.),  follow  the  path 
to  the  r. ,  facing  the  four  peaks  of  the  DiahUteU ,  and  skirt  its 
precipitous  S.  slopes  in  the  valley  of  the  Aven^on,  which  the  path 
crosses  several  times.  On  the  r.  is  the  Argentine  (see  below),  and 
to  the  extreme  r.  the  snowy  summit  of  the  Grand  Moveran  (10,043'). 
Near  the  (1  hr.)  chalets  of  Sergnement  (4212')  is  the  villa  of 
the  poet  Juste  OUivier.  For  a  short  distance  the  path  traverses 
a  pine  forest  extending  along  the  precipitous  slope  of  the  Argentine 
(7631'),  which  glitters  like  silver  in  the  sunshine;  Q/^^.}  chalets 
of  Solaiex  (4793')  in  a  higher  region  of  the  valley.  The  stony 
path  now  ascends  in  zigzags  to  the  1.,  at  the  head  of  the  valley, 
then  to  the  r.  to  the  Poraretaz,  a  saddle  which  connects  the 
W.  spur  of  the  Diablerets  with  the  Argentine. 

The  chalets  of  (1  hr.)  AjLxeindaz  (6224';  Alpine  fare)  are 
3  hrs.  from  Gryon,  5^^  from  Bex  (descent  4),  6^2  to  Sion  (ascent 
8  hri$.).  The  Olaeier  de  Faneyrossaz,  descending  from  the  Tite 
du  Oro8-Jean  which  rises  to  the  S.,  extends  to  the  vicinity  of 
this  Alp.  To  the  N.  rise  the  rugged  limestone  cliffs  and  peaks 
of  the  Diablerets  (10,666').  The  path  crosses  the  pastures  towards 
the  £.,  afterwards  inclining  towards  the  r.,  and  in  ^/4  hr.  reaches 
the  Col  de  Ch^yille  (6680'),  which  here  separates  the  cantons  of 
Yaud  and  Valais.  In  the  distance  are  the  Alps  of  Valais,  over 
which  towers  the  Weisshorn.  The  path  now  skirts  the  mountain 
to  the  1.,  reaches  a  wall  and  gate  marking  the  frontier  of  Valais, 
and  descends  steep  and  stony  slopes ,  past  (20  min.)  a  water- 
faU,  to  the  (10  min.)  ChaUts  de  Ch^vHU  (5722'),  where  the  brook 
must  be  crossed,  and  the  slope  to  the  r.  followed.  It  then  de- 
scends in  zigzagr,  passing  a  few  chalets,  to  (^2  ^0  the  Lac  de 


r "  "■ -----    -  - 

CONTHEY.  58.  Route.     243 

Derborenee  (4711'),  situated  lu  a  gloomy  basin,  and  skirts  its  S. 
bank. 

This  lake  is  surrounded  by  a  wilderness  of  rocks  and  debris,  the  scene 
of  two  landslips,  traversed  by  the  Lizeme.  In  the  language  of  the  people 
this  spot  is  not  inaptly  termed  the  ^Vestibule  de  r£nfer\  The  mountain 
is  composed  of  calcareous  strata,  worn  into  rugged  and  deep  hollows. 
The  lower  strata,  being  soft,  become  saturated  by  the  water  of  the  great 
glaciers  to  the  ».  E.  \  large  masses  thus  undermined  and  detached  are 
frequently  precipitated  into  the  depths  below.  Catastrophes  of  this  kind,  which 
give  warning  of  their  approach  by  subterraneous  noises,  last  took  place  in 
the  years  1714  and  1749.  In  the  latter  case  the  channel  of  the  Lizeme  was 
obstructed ,  and  the  two  Lake*  of  Derborenee  formed ,  one  of  which  has 
since  dried  up.  Three  of  the  five  rocky  peaks  of  the  Diablerets  have  already 
given  way,  and  the  other  two  will  probably  share  the  same  fate.  Profound 
abysses  are  seen  on  all  sides,  and  an  hour  rarely  passes  without  a  fall  of 
stones  in  soipe  direction.  High  above  tower  the  icy  walls  of  the  great 
Sanjleuron  Glacier. 

The  path  next  crosses  (3/4  hr.)  the  Lizeme^  follows  the  1. 
bank,  and  passing  near  the  chalets  of  Besson  (4383'),  leads  along 
the  slope  of  the  mountain,  which  descends  from  the  £.  perpen- 
dicularly into  a  profound  gorg«,  where  the  Lizeme  forces  its  pas- 
sage far  below.  At  the  Saut  du  Chien^  10  min.  from  the  chalets 
of  Besson ,  the  pathway ,  only  31/2  ft.  wide ,  is  supported  by 
poles,  and  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  1600'  above  the  Lizeme. 
This  pass  will  occasion  unpleasant  sensations  to  persons  inclined 
to  giddiness,  but  Is  unattended  with  danger.  The  path  follows  the 
wooded  slope,  nearly  at  the  same  height,  as  far  as  (1^/4  hr.)  the 
Chap^U  8t.  Bernard  (3543'),  at  the  end  of  the  Lizerne-gorge, 
where  an  extensive  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  is  suddenly 
dlseloaed. 

The  path  now  descends  to  the  1.  to  (10  min.)  Avent,  an 
Alpine  village  (no  inn),  surrounded  by  fruit-trees,  and  leads 
along  the  slope  to  (20  min.)  Erdei,  at  the  last  house  of  which 
it  descends  to  the  r.  At  the  cross-way  turn  to  the  1.,  and 
continue  bearing  to  the  1.  as  far  as  (25  min.)  St.  SSverin,  a 
pleasant  village  in  the  midst  of  luxuriant  vegetation,  belonging 
to  Contheyy  one  of  the  most  famous  wine -growing  villages  in 
the  valley  of  the  Rhone ,  with  houses  extending  to  the  (^2  M.) 
bridge  over  the  Morge.  A  few  fragments  of  the  ancient  castle  of 
Gonthey ,  once  the  property  of  the  barons  of  Thurn ,  are  still 
standin-^.  V^troz  (accommodation  at  the  cure's),  mentioned  at  p. 
253,  lies  1^2  M.  to  the  W. ,  on  the  road  through  the  valley  of 
the  Rhone,  about  halfway  between  Conthey  and  the  railway-station 
of  Ardon  (p.  253). 

At  the  bridge  over  the  Morge  the  traveller  reaches  the  high- 
road in  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  and  2^4  M.  farther  Sion  (see 
p.  253).  Instead  of  following  the  dusty  road,  the  pedestrian  may 
proceed  from  St.  Stfverin  over  the  vine-clad  hill  of  Muraz  by  a 
path  which  commands  a  fine  view. 

16* 


244 


59.  The  S.  Valleys  of  the  Valais  between  Sion  and 

Tourtemag^e. 

(Yal  d'Hirens,  Val  d'AnnivierB,  Valley  of  Tourtemagne). 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  146^  234y  270. 

The  dusty  and  glaring  high  road  in  fhe  broad  and  generally  marshy 
valley  of  the  Rhone  offers  no  attraction  to  the  pedestrian,  who  may,  if  dis- 
posed, proceed  from  Bex  (p.  199)  by  picturesque  mountain-paths  (guide 
necessary  for  the  different  passes)  in  6 — 7  days  to  Zermatt  (R.  64).  The  first 
evening  from  Bex  to  Gryon,  7»J2  M.  (p.  242)«  Ist  day,  over  the  Col  de 
Ch^ville  to  Sion,  9»|2  hrs.  (R.  58). —  2nd  day,  by  the  Val  d'H^rens  to  Evo- 
lena,  15  M.  —  3rd  day,  over  the  Col  de  Torrent  to  St.  Luc  in  the  Val  d'An- 
niviers,  12  hrs.  —  4th  day,  ascend  the  Bella  Tola ,  and  cross  the  Fas  du 
Boeuf  to  Gruben  in  the  Valley  of  Tourtemagne,  S^ja  hrs.  —  5th  day,  over 
the  Augstbord-Pass  to  St,  ^Niklaus  in  the  Valley  of  Zermatt,  7  hrs.  — 
6th  day,  to  the  Riffel,  above  Zermatt,  8  hrs.  (RR.  63,  64).  —  A  good 
Special  Map  of  tJie  8.  Valleys  of  the  Valais^  in  eight  sheets ,  on  the  scale 
of  1 :  50,000,  has  been  published  by  the  Swiss  Alpine  Club. 

a.    From  Sion  through  the  Val  d'Herens  to  Evolena,  and  over  the  Ool  de 

Torrent  into  the  Val  d'Anxiiviers. 

To  Evolena  15  M.,  by  a  good  carriage-road.  Over  the  Col  de  Torrent, 
with  guide,  in  11—12  hrs. 

The  road  from  Sion  to  Evolena  quits  the  Bramois  road  beyond 
the  Rhone  bridge  (1624'),  and  leads  in  a  straight  direction  to 
the  (Y2  ^0  ^®^*  °^  *^®  mountain ,  where  the  ascent  begins. 
La  Crtte  lies  to  the  1.  below.  The  road  then  leads  high  along 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Borgne  to  (41/2  M.)  Vex  (3408')  (Inn,  good  red 
wine),  at  the  isolated  church  of  which  the  view  ; first  develops 
itself.  On  the  opposite  (E.)  side  of  the  valley  is  the  hermitage 
of  Longeborgne.  In  the  foreground  rises  the  Dent  de  VeUivi 
(11,237');  somewhat  farther,  the  Dent  Blanche  (14,318'1  becomes 
visible,  and  adjacent  to  it,  the  Dent  cfHirens  (ISjTl^^,  which 
remains  in  view  the  whole  way. 

The  road  is  now  nearly  level  as  far  as  the  entrance  of  the 
Val  cfHeremence  (Orsera- Valley) ,  as  the  W.  ramification  of  the 
Val  d'H^rens  is  termed ,  from  the  upper  end  of  which  glacier- 
passes  lead  to  the  Val  d'Herens  to  the  E. ,  and  to  the  Val  de 
Bagne  (p.  242)  to  the  S.W.  The  Val  d'H^rens  and  the  adjacent 
Val  d'Anniviers  are  remarkable  for  the  prosperity  of  their  in- 
habitants. Almost  every  peasant  possesses  one  or  more  mules, 
which  are  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  corn-fields  in  apparently 
inaccessible  situations. 

At  Sauterot  (3051')  the  road  crosses  the  Dixense  and  leads 
through  the  E.  arm  of  the  valley,  the  Vfil  cfHirens,  properly  so 
called  (passing  curious  hillocks  on  the  1.,  each  surmounted  by  a  flat 
stone,  the  remains  of  old  moraines),  and  leads  by  Vaeigne  to  the 
(4^2 M.)  Chalets  de  Prajean  (3871').  Here  it  crosses  the  Borgne, 
ascends  3  M.  more  to  the  small  chapel  of  La  Garde  (4567'), 
a  pleasant  resting-place,  and  then  gradually  descends  to  (2^2  M.) 


VAL  D'HfiRENS.  59.  Route.     245 

Evolena  (45220  (*Hdtel  de  la  Dent  Blanche,  at  the  S.  end 
of  the  village,  R.  21/2,  B.  11/2,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ;  Hdtel  du  Mont 
Colon),  the  principal  place  in  the  valley.  Herr  Quensell ,  a  Ha- 
noverian judge  who  was  murdered  in  the  neighbourhood  in  1863, 
is  interred  in  the  churchyard  here. 

Ottidea  (A.  P.  BeytrUon,  Jean,  Jean-Pierre,  and  Bapt.  Oaspot,  Jean  Ouino- 
dox,  and  M.  Prolong  are  recommended) :  Glacier  de  Ferptele  3,  Couronne  de 
Breonna  7,  Pic  d'Arzinol  6,  Bees  de  Bosson  7,  Sasseneire  6,  Grande  Dent 
de  Veisivi  10,  Glacier  de  TArolla  5,  Cascade  des  Ignes  5,  Aiguille  de  la  Za  6, 
over  the  Col  de  Torrent  to  Vissoye  (unnecessary)  12  fr.  —  Over  the  Col 
de  Colon  to  Bionaz  20,  Col  d'Ht^rens  to  Zermatt  25,  Col  du  Mont-Rouge  to 
Chermontane  20  fr.  —  Porters  5  fr.  per  day. 

Interesting  walk  to  the   chalets  of  Forelaz  (5735')  (to  the  S. 

of  Evolena,  2  hrs.  there  and  back),  whence  the  Ferp^cle  Glacier, 

Pigno  de  I'Arolla,  Dent  Blanche,  etc.  are  surveyed. 

The  Pic  d'Arsinol  (9846') ,  a  pointed  mountain  to  the  W.  of  Evolena, 
ascended  by  a  tolerable  path  in  4  hrs.  (with  guide,  6  fr.),  commands 
a  fine  panorama,  especially  towards  the  S. 

The  Yal  d'fi^rens  divides,  1  hr.  S.  of  Evolena,  at  Haudires 
(4747')  (Inn).  The  S.E.  branch,  which  retains  the  name  of  the 
main  valley,  is  terminated  by  the  Olacier  de  Ferp^cle  ,  2^/2  l^rs. 
from   Evolena. 

The  Olader  de  Ferpeele  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  but  the  walk  to  it  is 
somewhat  fatiguing ',  guide  not  absolutely  necessary.  The  path  follows  the 
r.  bank  of  the  Borgne  to  the  (3  hrs.)  Alp  de  la  Bricolla  (7959')  (refreshments), 
the  best  point  of  view.  The  Mont  Mini  (10,955)'  divides  the  upper  part  of 
the  glacier  into  two  arms,  that  to  the  W.  bearing  the  name  of  Glacier  du 
Mont  Mini.    Imposing  mountain  scenery. 

The  S.  branch  of  the  Val  d'Herens  is  called  Val  de  VArolla, 
and  terminates  in  the  Olacier  de  VArolla. 

Olacier  de  TAroUa.  At  (1  fr.)  Uauderes  (see  above)  cross  the  Borgne 
to  the  r.,  and  ascend  the  1.  bank  of  the  glacier  brook.  Beyond  (1  hr.)  the 
Chapel  0/  St.  Barthilemi  (5961'),  to  the  r.,  is  the  Cascade  des  Ignes,  which 
bere  issues  from  the  Olacier  des  Ignes.  In  \}\%  hr.  more  the  Chalets  de 
VArolla  (6511')  (two  beds,  wine,  and  coffee  at  J.  Anzelin's)  are  reached. 
They  are  surrounded  by  Alpine  cedars,  and  magnificently  situated  opposite 
the  imposing  Mont  Colon  (11,955'),  whose  base  is  encircled  by  the  Glacier 
de  VArolla  on  one  side  and  the  Glacier  de  Vuihez  on  the  other,  which 
unite  their  masses  in  lofty  ice-cascades. 

Ascent  of  the  Sasseneire  (10,692'),  see  below.  The  Couronne  de  Brionna 
(10,381'),  more  to  the  S.,  commands  a  view  similar  to  that  from  the  Sasse- 
neire. 

Several  magnificent  Glacier  Passes  lead  out  of  the  Val  d'He- 
rens, but  all  are  difficult,  and  should  not  be  attempted  except 
by  experienced  mountaineers. 

Over  the  Col  d'Herens  (11,417')  to  Zermatt  (12—13  hrs.).  Unless  the 
night  be  passed  on  the  Bricolla  Alp  (see  above),  Evolena  should  be  left  at 
midnight,  in  order  that  a  great  part  of  the  glacier  may  be  traversed  before 
9  a.  m. ,  after  which  the  surface  of  the  ice  softens.  From  the  Bricolla 
Alp  to  the  Ferpeele  Glacier  >|4  hr. ;  then  a  steep  ascent  over  snow  to  the 
summit  of  the  Pass,  between  the  THe-Blanche  (12,304')  and  Wandfluh,  in 
3  hrs.  The  lofty  Matterhorn  rises  to  the  E.  The  descent  is  now  made 
to  the  Stock  Glacier ,  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  route,  and  then  to  the 
Stockje  (10,161').  From  this  point  the  route  either  lies  across  the  Tie/en- 
matten  Glacier  (not  always  passable^  the  Editor  found  no  difficulty  in 
Sept.,  1863),  or  by  the  base  of  the  Stockje  (somewhat  fatiguing)  to  the 
Z^Mutt  Olacier,  from  which  the  traveller  descends  to  the  Staffel  Alp  (4  hrs. 


246     Route  69.  COL  DE  TORRENT. 

from  the  Runamit  of  the  pass),  and  regains  a  Arm  footing.  Thence  to  Zer- 
matt  in  11(2  hr. 

Over  the  Ool  de  Colon  (10,269')  to  Priraytn  (6598')  in  the  Valpellina 
Valley  (Piedmont),  and  thence  to  Aosta  (p.  239),  18—20  hrs.,  a  rottte  affording 
a  succession  of  imposing  snow-scenes,  skirting  the  base  of  the  almost 
perpendicular  rocky  slopes  of  Mont  Colon  (11,^6'),  remarkable  for  their 
echoes.  From  the  Chalets  de  TArolla  (see  above)  to  the  summit  of  the  pass 
4 — 5  hrs.,  descent  to  Prirayen  2 — 3  hrs.  (tolerable  accommodation  at  the 
chalets),  or  in  3  hrs.  more  to  Bionaz  (bed  at  the  cur^'^s). 

To  the  W.  three  passes,  two  of  them  close  together,  lead  from  the 
upper  end  of  the  Val  de  VArolla:  the  Ool  de  Biadmatten  (9364%  to  theN.) 
and  the  Paa  de  Obevres  (9793',  to  the  S.),  crossing  the  Glacier  de  Durand 
or  Seilon  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Glacier  Durand  in  the  Valley  of 
Zinal,  p.  247)  and  leading  to  the  N.W.  into  the  Val  des  Dix^  the  upper 
part  of  the  Val  d^Hiremence  (p.  244),  and  thence  to  the  S.W.  over  the  Col 
de  Seilon  (10,663'),  the  Olacier  de  OHroz  (p.  241)  and  the  Ool  da  Kent  Rouge 
(10,958')  into  the  Val  de  Bagne  (11—12  hrs.  from  the  Chalets  de  TArolla 
to  Chermontane,  a  walk  for  practised  mountaineers  only,  with  trustworthy 
guides).  The  third  pass,  the  Ool  de  Ohermontane  (10,218'),  grand,  but 
difficult,  crosses  the  Olacier  de  Piice,  the  Serra  de  Vuibez^  and  the  Olacier 
de  Vuibez  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  between  the  Pigno  de  VArolla  and 
the  Petit  Mont  Colon y  and  descending  over  th«  Olacier  d'^Hautemma  (p.  241) 
also  leads  into  the  Val  de  Bagne. (from  the  Chalets  de  TAroIla  to  Chermontane 
9—10,  to  the  Hotel  du  Gi^troz  12—13  hrs.,  see  p.  241).  The  summit  of 
the  pass  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  W.  part  of  the  Bernese  Alps, 
the  Aiguille  de  la  Za,  Dent  Blanche,  and  Mont  Colon. 

A  bridle-path  over  the  Col  de  Torrent  (9584'),  the  summit 
of  which  Is  reached  in  5  hrs. ,  leads  from  Evolena  to  the  Val 
d'Anniviera  (or  Einfischthat),  a  valley  parallel  with  the  Val  d'H^- 
rens.  The  culminating  point  Is  marked  by  a  cross  and  heap 
of  stones. 

The  *8aaseneire  (10,692'),  which  rises  to  the  N.W.  above  the  Col  dc 
Torrent  (6  hrs.  from  Evolena),  may  be  safely  ascended  from  the  pass, 
but  its  rugged  sides  are  somewhat  difficult  of  access  near  the  top.  It 
commands  a  superb  panorama  of  the  Bernese  Alps,  which  stretch  sowards 
the  !K. ;  the  Jura  appears  in  the  form  of  a  blue  line  beyond  the  Col  de 
Ch^ville  (p.  242),  which,  as  it  were,  forms  an  immense  frame  to  the 
picture.  To  the  8.  the  attention  is  chiefly  arrested  by  the  colossal  pyramid 
of  the  Dent  Blanche  or  Steinbockhom  (14,318'),  the  Glacier  de  Ferp^le 
(p.  245),  and  the    mountains    which  surround  it. 

On  the  K.  side  of  the  Sasseneire  a  very  interesting  bridle-path  crosses 
the  Pas  de  Lena  (9022')  into  the  Val  d'Anniviers ;  from  the  Chalets  de 
Prajean  to  Grimence  8  hrs.  The  Bees  de  Boeson  (10,367')  may  be  as- 
cended from  the  pass  in  2  hrs.  *,  view  strikingly  beautiful. 

The  path  which  descends  from  the  Col  de  Torrent  to  the 
Val  d'Anniviers  skirts  the  little  Lac  Zoionne  (8871 Q  on  the  N. 
side,  and  passes  by  the  Torrent -Alp  into  the  Vcd  de  MoirS 
(or  Vol  de  Torrent;  height  by  the  bridge  7083'),  the  upper  S.W. 
branch  of  the  Val  d'Anniviers,  terminated  towards  the  S.  by  the 
great  Olacier  de  Moiri.  [From  this  point  the  traveller  may  proceed 
direct  to  Zinal  (see  p.  247)  by  remounting  the  opposite  and  some- 
what steep  slope  of- the  valley  towards  the  E.,  and  crossing  the 
Col  de  Sore-Bois  (8970^) ;  the  route  leads  over  turf,  and  the  de- 
scent is  moderately  easy. 

Below  Qrimence^  or  Gremenz  (5016'),  the  Val  de  Moirtf  and 
the  Val  de   ^inaJ  unite  (see  be}ow).     From  the  summit  of  the 


ZINAL.  59.  Route.     247 

Col  de  Torrent  to  Grimence  31/2  ^'s- 1  descent  by  St.  Jean  (4626') 
to  Vissoye  (see  below)  2  hrs.;  thence  to  St.  Luc  ^/^  hr.  (see 
p.  248). 

b.    From  Bierre  through  the  Val  d* AxuuTiers  (Biiiflaohth«l)  to  Zinal  (uid 

OTor  the  Ool  do  Ziiud  to  Zermatt). 

To  Visioye  (S^js  hrs.)  a  good  path,  thence  to  Zinal  (2s)4  hrs.)  tolerable  \ 
guide  unnecessary.  Over  the  Col  de  Zinal  (11 — 12  hrs.)?  with  guide, 
steady  head  indispensable. 

Beyond  the  (8/4  M.)  bridge  (1765')  in  the  valley  of  the  Rhone, 
the  well-deflned  path  diverges  to  the  r.  It  then  ascends  rapidly 
towards  the  1.  through  a  wood ;  far  below  lies  the  village  of  ChippiSy 
with  its  picturesque  white  cottages,  where  the  Navigenze  precipi- 
tates Itself  into  the  Rhone  through  a  gloomy  ravine.  After  1  hr. 
the  ascent  terminates,  and  the  snow -mountains  enclosing  the 
valley,  the  Cornier,  Dent  Blanche,  Pic  de  Zinal,  Gabelhorn,  and 
Weisshorn,  become  visible. 

At  (Y2  hr*)  Nioue  (3248')  begins  the  first  of  the  wild  rocky 
ravines,  the  path  skirting  its  precipitous  slopes,  and  afterwards 
leading  through  three  galleries.  Below,  to  the  r.  (40  min.),  lies 
the  village  of  Fang. 

[Those  whose  destination  is  St.  Luc  (p.  248)  here  follow  the 
narrower  bridle-path  to  the  1.,  and  reach  the  village  after  a 
steep  ascent  of  1^2  ^^-  —  ^  footpath,  which  also  diverges  to 
the  1.  before  the  rocky  gorges  are  reached,  leads  to  the  lofty 
village  of  Chandolin  (6493'),  whence  a  good  path  through  pine- 
forest,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Val  d'Anniviers,  the 
Rhone  Valley ,  and  the  Bernese  Alps ,  descends  to  St.  Luc  in 
1^2  ^i*-]-  ^^  main  path  continues  in  the  valley  and  passes 
several  ravines ;  on  the  opposite  slope  lies  Painse^.  Then  (1  hr.) 
Vissoye  (4002')  (beds  and  good  wine  at  the  cur^s),  the  principal 
village  in  the  valley,  with  a  handsome  church,  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Navigenze. 

St.  Lite,  Bella  Tolla^  Pas  du  Bauf^  Metden-Pa»s,  see  p.   248. 

Beyond  Vissoye  (5  min.)  the  path  leads  towards  a  saw -mill 
(not  to  the  1.);  25  min.,  towards  the  lower  cross  (not  to  the  r.). 
At  (20  min.)  Mission  the  valley  divides,  the  Val  de  Moiri  (see 
above)  running  towards  the  W.,  and  the  Vol  de  Zinal  towards 
the  E.  The  path  leads  through  the  latter  to  (^4  hr.)  Ayet 
(4777'),  where  there  are  deserted  nickel  mines,  beyond  which  it 
winds  upwards  and  passes  a  stony  wilderness.  In  ^2  ^^*  ^^  crosses 
the  Navigenze,  passes  a  chapel  on  the  1.  bank,  (1/2  hr.) 
recrosses  to  the  r.  bank,  and  in  40  min.  more  reaches  Zinal 
(5505')  (*H6tel  du  Durand;  the  landlord  Bapt.  Epiney  is  well 
acquainted  with  the  valley).  The  valley  terminates  towards  the 
S.  in  the  magnificent  Glacier  Durand  or  Zinal,  1  hr.  from  Zinal, 
which  descends  from  the  Ober-Oabelhom  (13,363'). 

The  Alp  TAllee,  or  '■Montagne  de  la  lAUT  (7178')  (situated  to  the  W. 
ftboYC  the  lower  ej^tremity  of  the  glacier,  2  hrf.   from  Zinal),   which  is 


248     RouU  59.  ST.  LUC. 

crossed  by  the  path  to  the  glacier-passes  mentioned  below,  commands  a 
noble  prospect  of  the  background  of  the  valley,  of  the  mountains  from 
the  Dent  Blanche  to  the  Weisshom,  overtopped  by  the  pyramid  of  the 
Matterhorn,  and  of  the  glaciers  of  Durand  and  Morning,  separated  by  the 
graceful  double-peaked  pyramid  of  the  Besso  (L'Obeche  \  Yz^iX'\  The  path 
may  be  found  without  a  guide.  Beyond  the  hotel  (10  min.)  cross  to  the 
I.  bank,  and  proceed  towards  the  corner  of  a  wood  \  i(2'"hr.  fragments  of 
rock,  where  the  path  gradually  ascends;  20  min.,  a  ravine  with  waterfall 
in  the  background ;  3  min. ,  a  stone  chalet  on  the  first  mountain  terrace. 
Then  a  somewhat  steep  ascent  \  ^\\  hr. ,  to  the  I.  \  10  min.,  the  chalet  on 
the  Alp.    Descent  in  1>J2  hr. 

The  Alp  Arpitetta  (7418'),  opposite  the  last  -  mentioned ,  towards  the 
#  N.E.,  affords  another  imposing  scene,  and  overlooks  the  W.  side  of  the 
Weisshorn  and  the  whole  of  the  Moming  Glacier,  the  S.  end  of  which  is 
bounded  by  the  Rothhom.  —  By  crossing  the  lower  part  of  the  glacier 
(with  guide),  both  the  above  points  of  view  may  be  included  in  the  same 
excursion. 

The  B.OC  Noir  (10,262')  (see  below)  is  another  grand  point  of  view ; 
ascent  somewhat  difficult,  guide  necessary  (10  fr.). 

From  Zinal  over  the  Col  de  Sore  Bois  into  the  Val  de  Moir^,  and 
over  the  Col  de  Torrent  to  Evolena,  see  p.  246. 

Those  who  desire  to  proceed  from  Zinal  to  St.  Luc  return  by  th« 
above-described  path  to  Ayer,  where  they  diverge  to  the  r.  and  ascend  the 
hill  across  meadows;  guide  desirable. 

From  Zinal  to  Zermatt  there  are  two  passes,  traversing  the  Durand 
Glacier.  The  shorter  is  the  Col  de  Zinal,  or  Triftjoch  (11,614')  and  the 
Trift  Glacier  (12 — 14  hrs.),  rendered  more  practicable  of  late  years  at  the 
expense  of  government.  It  presents  no  unusual  difficulty ,  but  the  passage 
of  the  glacier  is  troublesome  in  some  seasons.  The  glacier  is  reached  below 
the  Alp  TAllde  (see  above)  and  ascended  as  far  as  the  S.  slope  of  the  Besso 
(3>|2  hrs.  from  Zinal).  Then  to  the  W.  across  the  upper  part  of  the  glacier 
to  (13|4  hr.)  the  base  of  the  rocky  precipice  of  the  Trif thorn  (12,261'), 
part  of  which  is  ascended  (without  danger)  by  means  of  a  ladder  and  rope 
attached  to  the  rock.  Towards  the  summit  of  the  Pass  (1  hr.)  an  iron 
chain  afi'ords  still  greater  security.  Magnificent  prospect  of  Monte  Rosa,  the 
Saasgrat,  etc.  The  descent  to  (4  hrs.)  Zermatt  across  the  THft  Glacier 
presents  no  difficulty. 

The  route  across  the  other  pass  is  longer,  but  less  laborious  and  equally 
imposing.  On  the  upper  part  of  the  Durand  Glacier  it  leads  in  a  straight 
direction  towards  the  S.,  passing  the  Roc  Noir^  a  mass  of  rock  surrounded  by 
ice,  resembling  the  Jardin  at  Chamouny  (an  admirable  point  for  surveying 
the  imposing  scenery),  and  ascends  to  the  Col  Durand  (11,398').  In  descend- 
ing, the  traveller  must  not  proceed  straight  to  the  S.  across  the  JRohwdng 
Glacier  to  the  Z'Mutt  Glacier,  as  the  lower  part  of  the  former  is  full 
of  crevasses;  the  only  safe  route  is  towards  the  £.  (1.)  to  the  Arben 
Glacier.  For  both  these  passes  two  experienced  guides  (each  30  fr.)  are 
indispensable. 

From  Zinal  (or  Ayer)  to  Grub  en  in  the  Val  de  Tourtemagne  by 
the  Pas  de  la  Forcletta^  see  p.  250. 

c.   St.  Luc ,  Bella  Tola ;  by  de  Fas  du  Boeuf  into  the  Tourtemagne  Valley, 
and  over  the  Augstbord  Pass  to  the  Valley  of  the  Yisp. 

From  Sierre  to  St.  Luc,  see  p.  247.  From  Vissoye  (p.  247)  to  St.  Luc 
an  ascent  of  *\\  hr. ,  thence  to  the  Bella  Tola  4  hrs. ,  and  by  the  Pas  du 
Boeuf  in  8,  or  the  Meiden  Pass  in  7  hrs.  to  Gruben.  From  Gruben 
over  the  Augstbord  Pass  to  St.  Niklaus  7  hrs. 

St.  Luc  (5495')  (*mtel  de  la  Bella  Tola,    R.  2,  D.  or  S.  3, 

A.  and    L.  I'/g  fr-)    lies    on    a    steep    slope,    in    the   midst    of 

meadows   and    fields.     This  loftily    situated   village   commands   a 

somewhat  peculiar  view  of  the  profound    gorge  beneath,  and  the 


BELLA  TOLA.  69.  Itouie,     249 

snow-motintains  at  the  end  of  the  valley,  where  the  peak  of  the 
Matterhorn  towers  above  the  white  crest  of  Mont  Durand.  St.  Luc 
has  suffered  severely  from  fires  on  several  different  occasions. 
The  new  houses  are  massive,  but  badly  built.  The  hovels 
which  escaped  the  flames  are  easily  distinguished  by  their  peculiar 
construction.  About  400'  above  the  village,  to  the  N.,  is  the 
^Druids'  8tone%  termed  in  the  local  patois  ^Pierre  dea  Servagios' 
(stone  of  the  savages),  a  rock  projecting  from  the  turf,  the  E. 
side  of  which  is  said  to  have  been  once  used  as  an  altar. ' 

The  "^Sella  Tola  (10,138'),  the  S.  peak  of  a  group  of  moun- 
tains (the  N.  point,  9094',  is  termed  Schwarzhom.,  the  E.  peak, 
9744',  Borterhom)^  an  admirable  point  of  view,  is  easily  ascended 
in  4  hrs.  from  St.  Luc.  Guide  6  fr.  (unnecessary),  mule  8  fr. 
The  new  bridle-path  begins  to  ascend  behind  the  hotel;  20  min., 
to  the  1.;  then  in  zigzags  past  three  chalets  (10  min.);  next  to 
the  r.,  skirting  a  wood  of  pines  and  larches;  after  5  min.,  inclin- 
ihg  to  the  1.,  the  path  traverses  a  clearing,  ascends  a  meadow, 
passing  a  hut,  and  in  ^j^  hr.  reaches  a  chalet;  next  towards 
the  1.,  and,  on  the  next  mountain  terrace  where  the  view  of  the 
Bella  Tola  is  disclosed,  again  to  the  r.,  ascending  in  IY2  br.  to 
the  base  of  the  mountain;  finally  a  steep  ascent  of  1  hr.  more 
to  a  crest  commanding  a  view  of  the  Glacier  of  Bella  Tola,  fur- 
rowed with  crevasses ;  a  hut ,  a  little  below  the  ridge ,  affords 
shelter  in  unfavourable  weather  (key  at  the  hotel  at  St.  Luc). 
The  summit  affords  standing-room  for  scarcely  more  than  a 
dozen  persons.  The  view  embraces  the  whole  of  the  Bernese 
and  Yalais  Alps,  and  the  eye  ranges  over  a  circle  of  upwards  of 
250  M.,  one  of  the  diameters  extending  from  the  Furca  to  the 
Buet,  a  distance  of  80  M.  in  a  straight  line.  Ritz's  panorama 
comprises  200  peaks  of  mountains  distinctly  visible  from  this 
point.  Opposite,  to  the  N. ,  the  gorge  of  the  Dala  is  visible  in 
its  entire  extent,  as  far  as  the  Baths  of  Leuk  and  the  Gemmi. 
The  most  imposing  part  of  the  panorama  is  to  the  S.,  from  Monte 
Leone  (p.  258)  to  the  group  of  Mont  Blanc. 

In  order  to  reach  the  valley  of  Tourtemagne,  the  traveller 
descends  from  the  Bella  Tola  to  the  S.,  and  then  ascends  for  at 
least  72  h'-  ^0  t^3  ^^  d^  BoBnf  (9154').  In  descending,  keep  to 
the  1.,  the  direction  being  indicated  by  stones.  In  3  hrs.  (from 
the  Bella  Tola)  the  path  reaches  the  chalets  of  the  Alp  Meiden 
(7640')  (milk),  and  after  another  hour  through  forests  of  larch 
and  Alpine  cedars,  the  village  of  Ornben,  Zmeiden,  or  Meiden 
(6083')  (^H6Ul  du  Weisahom,  R.  2,  B.  IV2,  S.  2  fr.).  —  From 
Gruben  to  Tourtemagne,  see  p.  255. 

Farther  to  the  S.  the  Meiden  Pass  (9154')  and  the  Pas  de  la  Forcletta 
(see  below)  lead  into  the  Tourtemagne  Valley.  The  former  lies  to  the  N.  of 
the  abrupt  Tounot  (9921'),  and  is  somewhat  shorter  than  the  Pas  du  Boeuf. 
The  paths  unite  on  the  Meiden  Alp  (see  above). 

The  Valley  of  Tourtemagne   is  terminated  3  hrs.  from  Gruben  by   the 


250     RouU  60.  L(ETSCHENTHAL. 

superb  and  extensive  Glacier  de  Tourtemagne ,  or  Barr^  which  is  im- 
bedded between  the  Weitthom  (14,808^1  the  Brvneckhom  (12,6280)  and  the 
Barrhom  (11,9190.  The  chalets  of  Kaltberg  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  valley, 
to  which  the  traveller  ascends  in  i{x  hr.,  afford  an  excellent  survey  of  the 
glacier,  the  above  mentioned  mountains  which  tower  above  it  on  the  E., 
and  the  Schwarzhom  towards  the  "K.  —  The  traveller  reaches  the  foot  of  the 
glacier  in  2  hrs.  from  Meiden,  and  ascends  without  difficulty  in  2  hrs. 
more  to  the  Faa  de  U  Fordetta  (9809'),  which  leads  to  Ayer  (p.  247)  in 
the  Val  d'^Anniviers  (7  hrs.  from  Gruben  to  Ayer).  Striking  view  from  the 
summit,  especially  of  the  Weisshom  which  towers  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity ,  with  the  BrunecVhom  and  Barrhom  to  the  1. ,  and  the  Homing  and 
Diablons  to  the  r.    To  the  V.  rises  the  entire  Bernese  range. 

From  Gruben  to  Stalden  or  St.  Niklaus  in  the  valley  of  the 
Visp  a  bridle-path  (7  hrs. ,  or  including  the  Schwarzhom  8^2 
hrs.)  ascends  the  steep  E.  slope  of  the  valley,  passing  the 
chalets  of  the  Gruben- Alp,  to  the  fS  hrs.)  Angitbord  Fa»8 
(95700,  between  the  Steinthalhom  ((10,299')  on  the  S.  and  the 
Schwarzhom  (10,522')  on  the  N.  The  ascent  of  the  latter  from 
the  summit  of  the  pass  is  fatiguing,  but  free  from  danger ;  •view 
hardly  inferior  to  that  from  the  Bella  Tola  (p.  249).  Descent 
(unpleasant  for  riding)  by  the  AugstbordthdL  to  Stalden  in  the 
valley  of  the  Visp  S^/a  hrs. ;  or  to  St.  Niklaus  by  the  Jungalpen 
and  Jungen  in  3  hrs. 

Another  route  from  Gruben  to  St.  Xiklaus  is  by  the  Jvmg  Faas, 
farther  to  the  8.,  but  it  affords  less  view  than  the  above,  and  is  much 
more  fatiguing. 

St.  Kiklaiu,  and  thence  to  Zermatt»  see  p.  267. 

60.    From  Gampel  to  Kandersteg.     Lotschen  Pass. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  146. 

12  hrs.  This  route  should  only  be  undertaken  by  good  walkers  in 
fine  weather.  Ghiide  necessary  from  Kippel  or  Bied  to  Kandersteg.  Carriage- 
road  as  far  as  Bied. 

From  Gampel  (Hdtel  Lotschenthal) ,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Rhone,  2  M.  above  Tourtemagne  (p.  255),  and  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Lotaehenthalj  the  road  rapidly  ascends  the  valley  (view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Rhone),  and  then  becomes  more  level.  The 
gorge,  which  is  much  exposed  to  avalanches,  contracts. 

The  chapels  of  (21/2  M.)  Mitthal  and  (IV2  M.)  Koppistein 
(docs')  are  periodically  swept  away  by  avalanches ,  and  religi- 
ously restored  by  the  inhabitants  of  Ferden  and  Kippel.  Beyond 
Koppistein  the  Lonza  is  crossed  by  a  wooden  bridge  (8/4  M.). 
The  valley  here  becomes  broader  and  more  fertile,  and  possesses 
mines  of  some  value.  (3  M.)  Ferden  (poor  inn  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  village),  then  (8/4  M.)  Kippel  (4659').  Ign.  Lehner, 
Ign.  and  Mart.  Rieder  are  recommended  as  guides. 

From  Kippel  by  the  Ldtschenlilcke  to  the  EggUchhom,  see  p.  142.  — 
By  the  WetUrlUcke  to  Lauterbrunnen  (12  hrs.)  a  very  difficult  and  fatiguing 
expedition,  especially  the  descent  across  the  much  fissured  Breithom 
Glacier.  —  The  passage  of  the  Peien  or  Ldtschenthal  Grat  to  Lauterbrunnen 
(11  hrs.),  the  route  from  the  Muithorn  onwards  being  the  same  as  that  de- 
scribed at  p.  147  (from  Kandersteg  to  Lauterbrunnen),  is  interesting.  Both 
the^e  routes  require  tnj.stworthy  guides. 


GASTERN  VALLEY.         60.  Route.     251 

The  road  then  gradually  ascends  through  pleasant  larch- 
wood,  and  afterwards  across  meadows.  In  the  distance  several 
groups  of  huts  are  visible  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  which  is 
terminated  by  the  Lotachen  Glacier.  At  (3  M.)  Bied  (*H6iel 
Nesthom)  a  guide  for  the  pass  may  generally  be  found  (Jot. 
and  Joh.  Siegen  are  recommended).  Beyond  the  last  huts  the 
path  crosses  a  rocky  slope,  then  small  patches  of  snow  which 
seldom  entirely  melt,  and  in  3  hrs.  reaches  the  summit  of  the 
Lotschen  PaM  (8796'),  commanded  on  the  W.  by  the  Balm 
kom  fp.  147),  on  the  E.  by  the  Schildhom,  or  Hockenhom 
(10,817').  The  *view  towards  the  S.  from  the  summit  of  the 
pass  is  limited,  but  becomes  strikingly  grand  lower  down;  to 
the  S.E.  rises  the  Bietschhorn,  to  the  S.,  the  magnificent  group 
of  the  Mischabel,  the  Weis shorn,  and  Monte  Rosa;  to  the  N.  are 
the  precipitous  snowy  slopes  of  the  Doldenhorn  and  the  Bltimlis- 
alp;  to  the  N.E.  the  vast  Kander  Glacier,  above  which  towers 
the  Mutthom. 

In  descending  to  the  wild  Gastern-Thal,  the  traveller  crosses 
a  field  of  snow,  reaches  the  glacier  which  descends  from  the 
Lotschenberg  into  the  valley,  and  follows  its  1.  side,  skirting  the 
slopes  of  the  Balmhorn.  The  use  of  the  ice-axe  is  necessary 
at  places.  At  the  end  of  the  glacier,  the  Valley  of  Oastem  is 
disclosed  to  view.  Near  the  chalet  the  traveller  enjoys  a  magni- 
ficent view  of  the  mountains  and  of  the  conspicuous  Alpetli 
Qlaeier  to  the  N.E.,  an  offshoot  of  the  Kander  Glacier  (p.  147), 
overtopped  by 'the  Mutthom  or  Mittelkom  (9958'). 

13/4  hr.  Oaitemdorf,  or  Im  Selden  (oOOO  ft.),  a  group  of 
miserable  hovels ,  near  which  there  are  some  slight  attempts  at 
cultivation  (small  inn  kept  by  Orossen), 

A  beautiful  forest,  which  for  centuries  has  resisted  the  ava- 
lanches of  the  Doldenhorn ,  and  a  chaos  of  rocks  through  which 
the  Kander  flows  are  now  traversed. 

1  hr.  Oastemholi  (4462').  As  the  traveller  descends ,  the 
traces  of  avalanches  become  more  perceptible.  The  valley  forms 
a  curve,  and  expands,  being  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  huge 
Alteh  (11,923'),  and  on  the  N.  by  the  Fisistock  (9200').  The 
Gastern-Thal  was  much  more  thickly  peopled  at  the  beginning  of 
the  century  than  now,  the  indiscriminate  felling  of  timber  having 
so  exposed  it  to  avalanches,  that  the  inhabitants  are  compelled 
to  abandon  it  from  the  month  of  February  to  the  hay -harvest. 
The  Kander  here  forces  its  passage  through  the 

1  hr.  KlnS)  a  narrow  gorge,  beyond  which  the  valley  of  the 
Kander  and  the  Gemmi  route  are  reached. 

^2  ^^-  Kandersteg  (see  p.  146).  The  ascent  from  Kander- 
steg  to  Gastern  occupies  2^2 — 3  hrs.  The  path  is  frequently  de- 
stroyed by  the  Inundations  of  the  Kander^  rendering  considerable 
digressions  necessary, 


252 

61.  From  Martigny  to  Arona  on  the  Lago  Maggiore 

by  the  Simplon. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  148 y  140. 

Railway  from  Martigny  to  Sierre  in  1  hr.  40  min. ,  fares  4  fr. 
90,  3  fr.  25,  2  fr.  50  c.  (from  Lausanne  to  Sierre  in  4>j2— 5  hrs.,  fares  12  fr. 
35,  8  fr.  40,  6  fr.  20  c.  \  from  Geneva  to  Sierre  in  5«|4— 7  hrs.,  fares  18  fr. 
70,  12  fr.  85,  9  fr.  40  c.  5  see  RR.  48,  49).  Comp.  Introd.  ^.  —  Diligence 
from  Sierre  to  Brieg  three  times  daily  in  4  hrs.  (to  Tourtemagne  in 
1  hr.  ^  min.,  to  Vispach  in  3»|2  hrs.).  From  Brieg  to  Domo  d'Ossola  twice 
daily  in  9»|4  hrs.  (11  fr.  50,  coup^  13  fr.  15  c^.  From  Domo  d'Osisola  to 
Arona  twice  daily  in  6  hrs.  (9  fr.  70,  coup^  10  fr.  40  c).  Diligence  -  seats, 
see  Introd.  IX.  —  Steamboat  from  Baveno  or  Stresa  to  Arona  and 
Sesto  Calende,  see  B.  94.  —  Those  who  travel  by  private  conveyance 
should  arrange  to  pass  the  night  at  Brieg  (or  Vispach),  and  at  Iselle  (or 
Domo  d'Ossola),  so  that  the  mountain  may  be  traversed  by  day.  One-horse 
carriages  (generally  without  springs)  may  be  hired  of  the  postmasters  in 
the  Valais  at  5  fr.  per  stage  (9  M.),  and  1  fr.  fee.  —  Good  Muscatel  wine 
may  be  obtained  at  a  moderate  price  in  all  the  villages  in  the  Rhone  Valley. 
The  ^Heidenwein'  is  more  highly  prized. 

Martigpiy  (1558'),  see  p.  202.  (From  Geneva  or  Lausanne 
to  Martigny,  see  RR.  48,  49.) 

The  Rhone  Valley  from  Martigny  to  Brieg  presents  few  objects  of  in- 
terest. The  valley,  averaging  3  M.  in  width,  exhibits  many  traces  of  the 
disastrous  inundations  of  the  Rfiodan^  or  Rotten  (p.  137),  as  the  river  is 
generally  termed  iu  the  patois  of  the  Valais.  During  severe  storms  lai^e 
masses  of  rock  and  debris  are  often  precipitated  by  torrents  from  the  sur- 
rounding mountains,  devastating  the  banks  for  a  considerable  distance. 
The  bed  of  the  valley  is  thus  rendered  marshy  in  many  places,  producing 
grass  and  reeds,  only  with  here  and  there  an  oasis  of  com  and  maize.  The 
inhabitants  find  the  river  a  constant  source  of  peril  and  labour;  even 
the  high  road  is  frequently  damaged  by  its  overflow  and  rendered  im- 
passable. No  permanent  measures  to  avert  such  disast&rs  have  yet  been 
adopted.  The  Valais,  although  imposing  in  character,  is  less  picturesque 
than  many  other  parts  of  Switzerland.  Vines  flourish  on  the  base  of  the 
heights  on  the  r.  (N.)  bank  of  the  Rhone,  above  which  generally  rise  masses 
of  barren  yellow-grey  rock.  The  lateral  valleys  (R.  59)  opening  to  the 
S.,  through  which  extensive  glaciers  and  snow-fields  are  visible,  ofl*er 
far  greater  attractions  to  the  pedestrian.  The  standard  of  hotel-accom- 
modation in  the  Valais  is  low,  good  water  is  scarce,  and  the  eye  is  con- 
stantly offended  by  the  'goitre',  so  prevalent  in  this  region.  Gnats  are 
frequently  another  source  of  great  annoyance,  especially  in  the  evening 
(p.  202). 

At  Martigny  the  Rhone  valley  forms  a  right  angle.  The  rail- 
road runs  straight  from  Martigny ,  not  far  from  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Rhone,  to  the  Baths  of  Saxon  (1752^)  (Grand  Hdtel  des 
Bainsjj  the  water  of  which  is  impregnated  with  iodine  and  is 
beneficial  in  cases  of  -xutaneous  disease.  It  possesses  a  small 
'Casino',  built  in  the  Swiss  style  with  the  customary  adjuncts  of 
a  promenade,  orchestra,  reading-room,  and  the  seductions  of  the 
rouge  et  noir,  which  are  met  with  in  no  other  part  of  Switzer- 
land. The  railway  -  station  is  at  the  hamlet  of  Gottfrey  (1634') 
(Pierre  5i  Voir ;  H6tel  Suisse),  at  some  distance  from  the  baths. 
Picturesque  ruins  of  a  castle  on  a  hill,  and  another  farther  on, 
near  Saillon,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  on  the  r.  bank. 

The  Pierre  A  Voir  (p.  202)  'may  easily  be  ascended  from  Saxon  in 
5 — 51/2  hrs.  —  Chable  in  the  Val  de  Bagne  (p.  241)  may  be   reached   from 


SIGN.  61.  Route.     253 

Sftxon  (or  from  Biddes,  see  below)  by  croasing  the  Col  d'Etablon  (7129'),  a 
pass  to  the  £.  of  the  Pierre  a  Voir,  by  a  bridle-path  in  7  hrs.  (guide  un- 
necessary).   Fine  view  from  the  Col. 

The  railway  crosses  the  Rhone  (1574')  beyond  stat.  Riddes^ 
and  the  Lizerne  at  stat.  Ardon.  Ardon,  Vetroz  and  Contheyy  all 
of  which  yield  excellent  wine  (see  p.  243),  lie  to  the  1.  of  the 
railway ,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains  rising  on  the  N.  Oppo- 
site Conthey  the  line  crosses  the  Morge  ^  approaches  the  moun- 
tains, and  reaches  the  station  of 

Sion  (17090,  ^er.  Sitten  (*Fo8U,  R.  i%  B.  IV4,  D.  3  fr. ; 
fjion  d'Ovy  R.  1^2,  B.  V/2y  A.  Y2  ^'- i  Amigne  and  Glacier  are 
palatable  wines;  beer  at  the  cafes  du  Commerce  and  de  Oenkve)j 
with  4895  inhab.  (295  Prot.),  situated  on  the  Sionne,  which 
flows  through  the  town  in  an  artificial  channel ,  covered  with 
wooden  beams  (^Grand-pont,  forming  the  principal  street),  the 
Roman  Sedunum^  and  the  chief  town  of  the  Canton  of  Valais. 
It  was  annexed  to  the  French  empire,  as  the  DSpartement  du 
Simplon  in  1810,  but  in  1815  regained  its  original  constitution. 
In  the  distance  Sion  has  a  handsome  appearance,  with  its  two 
castles  perched  on  isolated  eminences.  On  the  height  to  the  N. 
are  the  ruins  of  the  episcopal  Castle  of  Tourbitlon  (21650 , 
erected  in  1294  and  destroyed  by  flre  in  1788.  It  commands 
an  extensive  view  as  far  as  Martigny,  and  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion as  far  as  Leuk,  and  may  be  reached  in  20  min.  (ascend 
to  the  r.  by  the  town-hall).  On  the  lower  height  to  the  r.,  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  Roman  fort,  stands  the  old  Castle  of 
Valeria  (2054^,  now  a  seminary  for  priests,  surrounded  by  towers 
and  other  buildings,  with  the  Church  of  St.  Catherine,  an  archi- 
tecturally interesting  edifice  founded  in  the  9th  cent.  A  third, 
likewise  episcopal,  Castle  of  Majoria  was  burned  down,  together 
with  part  of  the  town,  in  1788. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Gothic  Cathedral  (partly  Roman- 
esque) and  the  elegant  church  of  St.  Theodule,  there  are  few 
objects  of  interest  in  the  town.  Near  the  S.  entrance  to  the 
choir  in  the  cathedral  is  a  Roman  inscription  in  honour  of  Augustus, 
built  into  .the  wall ;  the  tower  is  the  oldest  portion  of  the  build- 
ing. The  ascent  to  Tourbillon  is  the  best  excursion  for  a  short 
stay.  The  environs  of  Sion  are  the  most  beautiful  in  the  valley 
of  the  Rhone.  The  picturesque  head-dress  worn  by  the  women 
consists  of  a  small  round  straw-hat  trimmed  in  a  peculiar  way 
with  broad  ribbon. 

By  the  Rawyl  to  STAun,  see  R.  35.  —  By  the  Sanetsch  to  Oessenep^  see  R. 
37.  —  By  the  Col  de  Chiville  to  Bex,  see  R.  58  s  guide  14  fr.  —  To  Evolma 
in  the  VtU  d''Hiren»y  and  over  the  Col  de  Torrent  to  8t.  Luc  in  the  Vol 
d"" AnnivierSy  see  B.  59. 

To  the  £.  of  Sion  the  Borgne  descends  from  the  Val  d'Herina 
(p.  244)  to  the  Rhone.  At  stat.  St.  Leonard  the  line  crosses 
the  Riere,  which  rises  on  the  Rawyl  (p.  152).     Farther  on,  the 


254     Route  61.  SIKRRE.  From  Mattigny 

ruined  castle  of  Oranges  and  a  church  ac^oining  it  are  seen  beyond 
the  bank  of  the  broad  and  gravelly  bed  of  the  Rhone.  The 
railway  terminates  at 

Sierre  (ITTdQ,  Ger.  Sidera  (Bellevtte^  near  the  station,  and 
adjoining  the  post-offlce,  established  in  an  old  chateau ;  *£l6tel  et 
Pension  Baur,  well  situated  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  ^/^  M. 
from  the  station,  R.  272,  B.  IY2  ^^-j  Poste,  in  the  principal 
street),  with  1302  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  slight 
eminence,  clothed  with  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  the  seat  of  the 
nobility  of  the  upper  Yalais,  who  own  estates  in  the  vicinity. 
The  town  contains  a  number  of  handsome,  but  dilapidated  medi- 
aeval buildings.  Several  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood.  At  a 
foundry  near  the  town  the  ore  obtained  near  Ayer  in  the  Yal 
d'Anniviers  (p.  247)  is  smelted.  Good  wine  is  produced  in  this 
district. 

Poat-Omnibug  to  the  Baths  of  Leuk  from  let  July  to  15th  Sept.,  twice 
daily  in  7  hrs. ,  fare  8  fr.,  coup^  10  fr.  ^  one-horse  carr.  for  2  pers.  to 
Vispach  in  3  hrs.  15 — 20  fr.,  two  horse  carr.  90  fr. 

From  Sierre  to  St.  Luc  in  the  Yal  d'Anniviers  (iMa,  back  in  3Ms  hrs.], 
to  Zinal^  the  Bella  Tola ,  and  the  passes  to  Evolena  in  the  Yal  d''H^rens, 
and  to  Gruben  in  the  valley  of  Tourtemagne,  see  R.  59. 

Diligence  (comp.  p.  252)  beyond  Sierre,  where  the  railway 
at  present  terminates.  The  road  crosses  the  Rhone  IV4  ^-  beyond 
Sierre,  and  then  traverses  a  range  (II/2  M.  long,  ^/i  M.  broad) 
of  numerous  pine-clad  hills,  100'  to  200'  high,  extending  from 
the  river  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  formerly  a  haunt  of 
brigands.  These  hills,  which  are  termed  the  Forest  of  Pfyn^ 
and  are  regarded  as  an  important  military  point,  were  defended 
in  1798  by  the  troops  of  Yalais  against  the  French ,  who  took 
them  only  by  stratagem.  They  are  composed  of  schistous  and 
calcareous  debris,  often  mingled  with  huge  masses  of  rock. 

On  the  E.  side  of  these  hills  lies  Pfyn  (iSbS') ,  Fr.  Finge 
(ad  fines) y  the  boundary  between  the  two  languages.  From  this 
point  to  the  source  of  the  Rhone,  German  only  is  spoken.  Many 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Sierre  and  Sion  speak  German,  but  French 
is  the  predominant  language  of  the  district  surrounding  these 
towns.  The  road  crosses  a  broad  natural  channel,  15  ft.  deep, 
which  in  rainy  weather  drains  the  *JllgrcAen  or  Hbllengrdben, 
a  deep  basin,  or  rather  a  vast  semi-circular  crater,  3  M.  in 
length,  the  bleak,  yellowish  slopes  of  which  are  visible  to  the  r. 
from  the  road.  During  heavy  falls  of  rain  the  water  rushes  from 
the  steep  and  barren  sides  into  this  cavity,  carrying  masses  of 
rock  and  stone  down  to  the  Rhone. 

The  handsome  old  village  of  Leak  (2608'),  with  Its  castle  and 
towers  (jp.  150),  lies  on  the  r.  bank,  high  above  the  Rhone. 
To  the  1.,  on  an  eminence  above  the  ravine  of  the  Dala^  which 
here  opens,  glitters  the  church  tower  of  Varen  (p.  150;  to  the 
1.,  on  the  rocky  wall  above,  a, waterfall  is  formed  on  hot  after- 


to  Arona.  TOURTfiMAGNE.  61.  RouU.     255 

noons);  high  above,  on  the  r.  beyond  Leuk,  on  an  ^extensivj 
shelving  pasture,   is  the  Alpine  village  of  Albinen  (p.  149). 

On  the  1.  bank  of  the  Rhone  lies  the  small  village  of  Sutten 
(H6UL  de  la  Sousie),  through  which  the  road  leads.  (Dilfgence 
in  summer  twice  daily  to  the  Baths  of  Leuk,  5,  coupe  6^/2  fr. ; 
one-horse  carr.  14  fr.) 

On  the  1.,  above  the  covered  bridge  of  Leuk,  are  two  pillars 
of  an  ancient  aqueduct.  On  the  plain,  rendered  fruitful  by 
alluvial  deposits  from  the  Illgraben,  the  castle  of  Baron  de  Verra 
rises  to  the  r. 

9  M.  Toortemagne  (2086'),  Ger.  Turtman  (Poste  or  Lion; 
Soleil).  The  '•Turris  Magna  ,  from  which  the  village  derives 
its  name,  is  now  used  as  a  chapel.  To  the  S.  opens  the  Tour- 
temagne  Valley  (see  below),  about  15  M.  in  length,  inhabited 
in  summer  only,  and  terminated  by  a  beautiful  glacier  (p.  250). 
About  3/4  M.  from  the  post-oftlce,  the  Tourtemagne  brook  forms 
a  fine  waterfall ,  80  ft.  high.  A  boy  may  generally  be  found 
near  the  post-offlce  to  act  as  guide  (25  c). 

From  Tourtemagne  to  O  rub  en  (p.  249)  in  the  Tourtenuicne 
Valley,  and  thence  by  the  Augstbord  Pass  to  St.  Niklaus  (p.  267)  in 
11  hrs.  (guide  15,  horse  30  fr.).  The  bridle-path  ascends  the  steep  r.  bank 
of  the  Tourtemagne  brook,  passing-  the  above-named  fall,  which,  how- 
ever, is  not  visible  from  the  path.  At  Tummenen  it  crosses  to  the  1.  bank, 
whence  fine  retrospective  views  of  the  Rhone  valley  are  obtained  through 
the  wood,  and  again  ascends  rapidly  between  fragments  of  rock.  It  then 
leads  for  2  hrs.  through  the  extensive  Dubenwald.,  once  a  magnificent  pine 
forest,  but  now  considerably  thinned  by  avalanches  and  conflagrations. 
In  the  middle  is  a  small  white  chapel  containing  numerous  votive  tablets. 
At  Vfiltensteg  the  path  recrosses  to  the  r.  bank,  and  passing  the  hamlets 
of  Niggelingen^  Tschafely  and  Ptetsehen  or  Zerpletsehen^  reaches  Gruben, 
4  hrs.  from  Tourtemagne.  From  Gruben  by  the  Augstbord  Pass  to  Hi. 
Niklaus^  and  over  the  Pas  du  Bontf  and  the  Meiden  or  Forcletta  Pass  into 
the   Val  d'' Anniviers^  see  R.  59. 

Beyond  Tourtemagne,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhone,  near  the 
village  Zum  8teg,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lotschenthal  (p.  250) 
at  the  head  of  which  tower  the  icy  slopes  of  the  Tschingel  or 
Kander  Olaeier ,  the  traveller  perceives  the  lofty  chimneys  of 
the  works  of  a  French  company,  at  which  the  ore  found  in  the 
Lotschenthal  is  smelted.  The  arch  of  the  extensive  Kaltwasser 
Qlacier,  which  belongs  to  the  Simplon  group  and  is  passed  by 
the  road  near  its  culminating  point  (p.  257),  is  visible  in  the 
background. 

On  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhone  near  the  church,  formerly  stood 
the  old  castle  of  Niedergestelen  (Baa-ChdtUlon),  of  which  hardly 
a  trace  is  left.  The  tower  of  Raron  glistens  on  a  flat  rock,  and 
above  the  mountains  rises  the  snow-clad  Bietschhom  (12,969')- 
On  the  opposite  bank,  to  the  r.  of  the  road,  on  a  wooded  emi- 
nence, and  built  into  the  rock,  is  the  small  pilgrimage-church  of 
Turtig^  to  which  a  winding  path  leads  by  a  number  of  stations. 

81/2  M.  Vigpach  (21550,  ot  Visp,  Fr.  Vihge  (•-STonne,  by 
the  bridge,  R.  2,  B.  IV2,  I>.  incl.  W.  33/4,  S.  21/2,  A.  1/2  ^i-  J 


256  '  Route  61.  BRIEG.  From  Martigny 

*Po8ty  moderate),  formerly  the  seat  of  the  noble  families  of  8illneny 
RiedmatUn,  Kalhermatten,  Blandra,  Vlrichj  etc.,  who  possessed 
a  church  of  their  own,  but  now  an  unpretending  village,  was 
seriously  damaged  by  an  earthquake  in  1855  and  an  inunda- 
tion in  1868.  Beautiful  environs.  *View  from  the  sluice-gate  and 
cemetery.  Travellers  from  Zermatt  who  arrive  at  Yispach  in  the 
evening,  and  intend  to  cross  the  Simplon  by  diligence,  should 
endeavour  to  reach  the  larger  post-town  of  Brieg  on  the  same 
day. 

One-horse  carr.  to  Susten  10,  Fiesch  20,  Baths  of  Leuk  25  fr. ;  to  Zer- 
matt see  p.  266  ^  horse  to  Stalden  5,  St.  I^iklaus  10,  or  if  the  ni^t  is  passed 
there,  12  fr.,  Saas  15  fr. ;  by  Saas  to  the  Mattmark  Hotel  20  fr. ;  chair- 
porters,  less  experienced  than  those  of  the  Bernese  Oberland,  6  fr.  per 
day,  luggage-porters  5  fr.  per  day ;  return-fees  in  each  case  included. 

By  the  Monte  Moro  to  Vogogna^  see  R.  62  i  to  Zermatt^  and  across  the 
Matterjoch  to  Aosta,  R.  63. 

The  bed  of  the  VUp ,  which  here  pours  into  the  Rhone  a 
volume  of  water  nearly  equal  to  that  ot  the  latter  river  itself, 
is  13  ft.  higher  than  a  portion  of  the  village.  It  has  therefore 
been  necessary  to  avert  inundations  by  embankments,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  Oamsen,  Saltine,  and  other  torrents  which  fall  into 
the  Rhone  higher  up.  The  magnificent,  beautifully-formed  snow 
mountain  visible  in  the  background  of  the  Visp  Valley  is  the 
Balferin  (12,474'),  the  snow-field,  or  'Firn',  rising  above  the 
village  of  Balen,  and  the  first  peak  of  the  Mischabel  or  Saasgrat, 
which  separates  the  Saas  from  the  Zermatt  Valley. 

The  Simplon  road  begins  at  Olis  (2254'),  a  village  with  a  large 
church.  Pedestrians  may  follow  the  road  diverging  to  the  r.  by 
the  church,  which  leaves  Brieg  to  the  1.,  crosses  the  gorge  of 
the  Saltine  about  1/2  M.  above  the  village,  and  then  rejoins  the 
Simplon  road  (see  p.  257).  The  diligence  makes  a  circuit  of 
IV2  M.  by 

51/4  M.  Brieg  (2244'),  Fr.  Brigue  (*Troi8  Couronnes,  R.  2, 
D.  4,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ;  ^Angleterre,  R.  2,  B.  IV2J  I^-  and  A..  1  fr., 
opposite  the  diligence-office),  a  small  town  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Saltine  (1076  inhab.),  with  the  chateau  of  Herr  Stockalper,  the 
four  towers  of  which  are  surmounted  by  metal  cupolas. 

The  ^Sparrenhom  (9889'),  situated  to  the  N.,  above  the  lower  end  of 
the  Great  Aletsch  Glacier,  is  frequently  ascended  form  Brieg.  A  bridle- 
path ascends  through  the  Tiefenthal  to  the  (4i|2hrs.)  *IIdtel  Bellalp  (p.  142). 
View  grand  and  striking.  Refreshments  at  the  village  of  Blatten,  about 
halfway.  Above  Blatten  (i|4  hr.)  a  path  leads  through  the  wood  in  >J2  hr. 
to  the  beautiful  ice-grottoes  of  the  Aletsch  Glacier,  from  which  the  Massa 
issues.  From  the  hotel  to  the  summit  of  the  Sparrenhorn  an  easy  ascent 
of  21 12  hrs.,  a  bridle-path  the  greater  part  of  the  way.  View  very  striking, 
especially  towards  the  S.  (Monte  Rosa).  —  Ascent  of  the  Eggischhorn  frona 
the  Bellalp,  see  p.  142. 

The  Uppei'  Valais  and  the  GrimseL  Furca ,  and  Ories  passes ,  see  RR. 
30,  31,  32,  33. 

The  Simplon  road  quits  the  Rhone  valley  at  Brieg :  from  Brieg 
to  Domo  d'Ossola  39  M.,  which  the  diligence  performs  in  91/2  ^'s. 
^6   to   Simplon,   31/2  to  Domo   d'Ossola),   returning  in   ll    hrs. 


to  AfOfMt.  BSRISAL.  Bl.  BouU,    257 

(from  Domo  d^Ossola  to  Simplon  7^  thence  to  Brieg  i  hrs.).  The 
ascent  may  be  accomplished  by  a  good  walker  in  the  same  time. 
>—  Luggage  to  be  forwarded  by  diligence  OTer  the  Simplon  must 
be  booked  the  preyions  night.  It  cannot  be  conveyed  beyond 
Iselle  (Italian  frontier,  p.  259)  unless  the  keys  are  sent  with 
it  to  the  custom^'hoase  at  that  place. 

After  the  battle  of  Marengo,  Buonaparte  resolved  to  construct  this 
road,  and  it  remains  to  this  day  a  lasting  memento  of  his  genius  and 
energy.  The  difficulties  of  the  St.  Bernard  |»assage  doubtless  first  originated 
the  idea.  He  desired  to  have  a  great  military  road  into  Italy,  and  his 
constant  enquiry  was :  ^  Quand  le  canon  pourra-t-il  done  passer  au  Simplon  f 
This  great  work  was  begun  on  the  Italian  side  in  1800,  on  the  Swiss  side 
in  18(H,  and  was  completed  in  six  years,  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of  18  million 
francs,  half  of  which  was  paid  by  France,  and  half  by  the  ^Cisalpine 
B«public\  The  Simplon  was,  after  the  Brenner,  the  first  great  route 
across  the  Alps. 

The  ascent  begins  at  the  post-office  at  Brieg,  1/2  M.  from 
which  the  now  seldom  used  road  to  QU8  with  the  lofty  SalUru 
Bridge  lies  to  the  r.  Long  windings  traverse  green  meadows 
towards  the  E.,  in  the  direction  of  the  KUnenhornj  and  past  the 
Galvarienberg  with  Its  chapels.  Beyond  the  (2^/4  M.)  Firtt 
Refuge  (Sddd')  the  road  turns  to  the  S.W.  into  the  ravine  of  the 
Saitine ,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Glishorn  (8130'),  Brieg, 
and  the  Rhone-Valley.  Above  him  the  traveller  perceives  the 
glacier  near  which  the  road  reaches  the  summit  of  the  pass,  an 
ascent  of  10  M.  from  this  point.  The  Second  Refuge  (4334')  is 
21/2  M.  farther.  The  road ,  now  nearly  level ,  runs  towards  the 
E.  in  the  Qantw  Thai  to  the  (2^/4  M.)  Qanter  Bridge,  which 
is  much  exposed  to  avalanches  in  winter,  and  1  M.  farther  (a 
footpath  here  effects  a  great  saving)  reaches 

9  M.  Beriial  (50060,  the  Third  Refuge  (post-station  and  *inn), 
where  voituriers  generally  pass  the  night.  In  March,  1804,  a 
few  hundred  riflemen  of  the  Valais  drove  back  to  the  Lago  Mag- 
giore  several  thousand  Italian  soldiers,  who  had  crossed  the  Sim- 
plon with  a  view  to  reconquer  Valais.  The  road  crosses  (3/4  M.) 
the  Frombaeh  and  the  (1  M.)  Weis^aeh,  and  reaches  the  (3/4  M.) 
Fourih  Refuge,  where  the  pine  wood  is  quitted.  In  clear  weather 
the  Bernese  Alps,  and  especially  the  Breithorn  and  Aletschhorn, 
are  conspicuous  towards  the  N.,  in  front  of  which  the  huge 
Aletsch  Glacier  (p.  142)  descends  into  the  Rhone  Valley.  The 
(IY4  M.)  Sehalbet  OaUery,  or  Caploch,  hewn  in  the  rock  for  a 
distance  of  30  yds.,  affords  a  good  view  of  the  Raut-Olacier  and 
Rauthorn  (see  below).     Then  the  (8/4  M.)  Fifth  or  SchaWet  Refuge 

(6358'). 

The  portion  of  road  between  the  fifth  refuge  and  the  summit 
of  the  pass  is  the  most  dangerous  during  the  period  of  ava- 
lanches and  storms.  Within  a  distance  of  less  than  3  M.  there 
are  no  fewer  than  six  houses  of  refuge  and  a  hospice.  Over  the 
(3/4  M.)   KaUvDosBef   Olacier   Oallety  (6460')  the  stream  issuing 

Baorkkk,  8wite«rland.   6th  Edition.  17 


258     BotUe  61.  S1MPL0N.  From  MarUgny 

from  the  glacier  is  precipitated  into  the  depths  below,  forming  a 
waterfall  visible  through  one  of  the  side  openings  in  the  gallery. 
This  defile  has  been  fortified  several  times  by  the  French  and 
Yalaisians,  but  the  works  have  been  repeatedly  destroyed  by 
avalanches.  The  (^4  M.)  Sixth  Refuge  (6539')  commands  a 
splendid  (the  last)  view  of  the  Bernese  Alps  and  the  Aletsch 
Glacier;  far  below  in  the  Rhone  Valley  lies  Brieg. 

A  short  distance  farther  the  road  reaches  the  culminating 
point  of  the  Simplon  (6594';  6V2  M.  from  Berisal),  8/^  M.  beyond 
which  stands  the  Hotpioe  (hospitable  entertainment,  no  payment 
demanded ;  visitors  should  contribute  to  the  poor-box  at  least  as 
much  as  they  would  have  paid  at  an  inn),  at  the  base  of  the 
magnificent  Monte  Leone  (11,696',  ascent  difficult,  not  to  be 
attempted  by  the  inexperienced),  a  spacious  building  with  a  lofty 
flight  of  steps ,  founded  by  Napoleon  for  the  reception  of  travel- 
lers, and  subject  to  the  same  rules  as  the  similar  establishment 
on  the  Great  St.  Bernard  (p.  236).  It  remained  unfinished  from 
want  of  means  till  1825 ,  when  the  St.  Bernard  Hospice  purchased 
the  buildings.     The  diligence  halts  for  a  few  minutes  only. 

A  broad  open  valley  resembling  a  dried-up  lake,  bounded  by 
snow-capped  peaks  and  glaciers,  forms  the  highest  part  of  the 
Pass.  The  hardy  Alpine  rose  alone  finds  nourishment  here.  The 
imposing  Raut  Olacier  is  a  conspicuous  object  on  the  mountains 
to  the  S.,  overtopped  by  the  Rauthom  (10,463'),  The  (1  M.) 
old  hospice  (5699'),  a  high  square  tower  to  the  r.,  far  below  the 
new  road,  is  now  occupied  by  shepherds.  The  (2Vi  M.)  Seventh 
Refuge  lies  in  the  Kngeloch.  The  road  then  (^4  M.)  crosses  the 
Krummbach  tiJid  the  (IV2  M.)  Am  Senk  bridge  (4855'),  to  the 
r.  of  which  is  the  Rosaboden  Olacier  with  its  moraine  (worthy  of 
a  visit).     Then  (1/2  M.)  the  village  of 

121/2  M.  Simplon  (4856'),  Ital.  Sempione,  Germ.  Simpeln 
(*Po8te^  D.  3  fr. ;  JJdtel  des  Alpes^  well  spoken  of),  51/2  M.  from 
the  Hospice.  Pedestrians  may  here  take  a  rough  short-cut  which 
unites  with  the  high  road  near  the  Algaby  Gallery.  After  crossing 
the  (1/4  M.)  Lowenbcuth^  the  road  describes  a  wide  curve  and 
enters  the  Laquinthal^  through  which  the  Laquinbach  descends 
from  the  glacier  of  that  name;  at  the  (iV2  ^0  hamlet  of  Osteig 
or  Algaby  (4042')  it  then  crosses  the  Krummbach,  into  which  the 
Laquinbach  falls  immediately  below.  Beyond  this  point  the  brook 
is  named  Diveria.  The  entrance  to  the  OU  M.)  Oallery  of  Algaby 
was  fortified  on  the  Italian  side  in  18l4.  Beyond  the  gallery 
begins  the  *Bayi]ie  of  Gk>ndo,  a  gorge  of  the  brawling  Diveria,  one 
of  the  wildest  and  grandest  in  the  Alps,  which  becomes  narrower 
and  more  profound  at  every  step,  till  its  smooth  and  precipitous 
walls  of  mica-slate  completely  overhang  the  road.  Beyond  the 
(1  M.)  Eighth  Refuge  the  Diveria  is  crossed  by  (IV2  M.)  11 
Ponte  Alio  (3747'),  apd  by  apother  bridge  ne»T  the  Ninth  Refuge 


to  Arona.  DOMO  D'OSSOLA.  61,  Route.     25'9 

(3514').  A  huge  mass  of  rock,  which  apparently  terminates  the 
road  here,  is  pierced  by  the  Gallery  of  Gondo,  a  tunnel  245  yds. 
in  length,  bearing  the  inscription,  ^Aere  Italo  1806  Nap.  Imp.' 
In  1830  the  Swiss  erected  gates  at  the  entrance. 

At  the  farther  end  of  the  gallery  the  Fresitnonty  or  Alpienbaekj 
is  precipitated  over  rocks  of  Considerable  height.  A  slender  bridge 
crosses  the  waterfall.  On  both  sides  the  rocks  tower  to  a  dizzy 
height  (about  2000').  The  sombre  entrance  to  the  gallery  pre- 
sents a  striking  contrast  with  the  white  spray  of  the  falling  torrent, 
forming  a  most  imposing  Alpine  ^^icture  when  seen  at  a  distance 
of  40 — 50  paces.  This  scene,  a  favourite  subject  with  artists,  sur- 
passes the  Via  Mala  (p.  358).  Traces  of  the  old  road  are  still 
distinguishable  opposite  the  waterfall.  Farther  on  are  several 
small  cascades.  The  poor  hamlet  of  (I3/4  M.)  Oondo  (2818'), 
Germ.  Gun%  or  Ruden,  is  the  last  Swiss  village.  The  tall  square 
tower  here  was  erected  by  the  Stockalper  family  for  the  reception 
of  travellers ,  long  before  the  new  road  was  constructed.  Part  of 
this  building  is  now  an  inn,  which  affords  tolerable  accommodation, 
though  uninviting  externally.  To  the  S.  opens  the  Val  Vatki^ 
or  Zwisehberg en-Thai y  through  which  a  path  leads  to  the  moder- 
ately easy  Zwischbergen-Pass  (10,735')  and  thence  to  Saas  im 
Grund  (p.  265)  in  14—15  hrs. 

A  column  of  granite  to  the  1.  of  the  road,  */2  ^-  ^'om  Gondo, 
marks  the  boundary  of  Italy.  At  (1/4  M.)  S.  MarcOy  the  first  Italian 
village,  passengers'  luggage  is  examined.  Below  this  point  the  valley 
is  termed  Val  di  Vedro.    Then,  about  IY2  M.  farther,  the  town  of 

9  M.  Iselle  (2175'),  Germ.  Jesellen  (*Po8ta,  R.  2,  B.  1, 
L.  and  A.  IV4  fr-)-  Below  (1^/4  M.)  Trasquoraj  which  lies  on 
the  hill  to  the  1.,  the  new  road  takes  a  wide  bend  to  the  1.  and 
crosses  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Cheraaea.  (Route  to  the  Rhone 
valley  by  the  Boccareccio  Pasa^  see  p.  141.)  The  solitary  arch 
of  a  bridge  by  the  road-side  affords  evidence  of  the  substantial 
character  of  the  old  road,  which  was  destroyed  by  an  inundation 
in  1834.  To  the  1.  of  the  road  lies  the  (1  M.)  straggling  village 
of  VarzOy  beyond  which  a  sequestered  and  picturesque  ravine  is 
traversed,  with  the  slopes  of  the  Pi%  d'AWione  (7976')  rising  on 
the  r.  At  a  (3  M.)  bridge  the  road  reaches  the  Gallery  of 
Crevola  (1286'),  and  21/4  M.  farther  the  village  of  Creyola 
(1099')  {Etoile,  by  the  bridge;  carriage  to  Premia,  see  p.  144, 
10  fr.),  where  for  the  last  time  it  crosses  the  Diveria  by  a  bridge 
100'  in  height,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Tosa,  which  here 
emerges  from  the  Formazza  Valley  (p.  145).  The  valley  is  now 
called  Val  d'Ossola,  Germ.  Eschenthdl.  This  fertile  district, 
although  devastated  at  places  by  recent  inundations,  is  strik- 
ingly picturesque,  and  thoroughly  Italian  in  character. 

9  M.  Domo  d'Osaola  (1000')  (^Grand  H6tel  de  la  Ville ,  R.  2V?, 
B.  IV?  fr.,    p.   4,    L.  and  A.  IV2  fr- »   ^^<«f'  ^Espagne,   w^ll 


260     Route  ei,  BAVENO. 

spoken  of;  carriage  with  one  horse  to  Stresa  ii^/iy  Baveno  15, 
Brieg  45  fr. ;  with  3  horses  to  Brieg  80  fr. ;  diligence  daily  to 
Pallanza  on  the  Lago  Maggiore  6  fr.,  see  p.  377),  a  small  town 
with  2480  inhab.,  where  the  diligence  halts  for  1/2  ^^*i  i^  charm- 
ingly situated  on  the  Tosa,  which  here  becomes  navigable.  The 
C(Uvario  chapel  on  the  hill,  ^2  ^*  8.  oi  the  town ,  commands  a 
superb  view.  Beyond  Dome  d'Ossola  there  is  little  to  interest 
the  pedestrian.  At  (3  M.)  Villa  the  wild  and  narrow  Vol  Antrona 
o|»ens  on  the  r. 

The  Saas  or  Antrona  Fats  (9301')  leads  from  the  Antrona  Valley  to 
the  N.  W.  across  the  Furggen  Olaciery  and  through  the  Fui^gen  Valley  to 
Meigeren  (p.  264)  in  the  Saas  -  Thai.  At  Antrona  Piano-  (3064'),  the  last 
village  in  the  Val  Antrona ,  the  traveller  will  find  good  quarters  at  the 
house  of  the  Syndic.  The  small  lake  to  the  W.,  formed  in  1632  by  the 
falling  of  rocks  from  the  Pizzo  Pozzolo,  and  its  environs  are  remarkably 
pretty.  The  Sonnighornj  or  Pizzo  di  Bottarello  (11,457'),  rising  between  the 
▼alleys  of  Antrona]  and  Fnrggen,  to  the  N.  of  the  Saas  Pass,  affords  a 
still  grander  view  than  the  Stellihom  (p.  264). 

The  next  villages  are  (272  M.)  PaUanzeno  and  (21/2  M.) 
Masone,  where  a  bridge  is  crossed,  opposite  the  month  of  the 
Val  Anzasca  (p.  261).  About  i  M.  farther  is 

9  M.  Yogogna  (741')  {*Corona,  unpretending),  a  small  town 
at  the  base  of  precipitous  rocks.  The  Tosa  is  here  so  rapid  that 
its  navigation  is  attended  with  difficulty.  The  next  villages  are 
(iy*i,  ^  )  ^^^^"^^^^y  Cuszago,  and  (4^2  M.)  Migiandone,  where 
the  road  crosses  the  Tosa  by  a  bridge  of  five  arches. 

7^2  M.  OmaTaMO  (Auberge  d'JtaUe;  Croce  Bianca).  On  a  hill 
to  the  1.  stands  a  ruined  castle.  The  neighbouring  marble  quarries 
yielded  the  stone  of  which  the  cathedral  of  Milan  is  built. 

At  (4  M.)  OraveUona  (Europa)  the  Strona,  which  is  joined 
at  Omegna  (p.  381)  by  a  stream  issuing  from  the  small  lake  of 
Orta,  4^2  M.  from  OraveUona,  falls  into  the  Tosa.  (Diligence  daily 
between  Orta,  OraveUona,  Pallanza,  and  Intra,  see  R.  94.) 

The  environs  of  (21/2  M.)  Fariolo  (Leone  d*Oro,  clean  and  mo- 
derate) are  luxuriantly  covered  with  olive  groves,  maize  fields, 
vineyards,  and  plantations  of  chestnuts  and  fig-trees.  The  road 
passes  a  large  graiiite  quarry,  in  which  beautiful  felspar  crystals 
are  found.  The  magnificent  columns  (23'  high)  of  the  Basilica 
St.  Paolo  fuori  le  Mura  near  Rome  (restored  after  the  fire  of  1823) 
were  quarried  here.  The  traveUer  now  approaches  the  Lago 
Maggiore  (R.  94),  and  observes  in  the  distance  the  Jsola  Madre, 
the  most  N.  of  the  Borromean  Ukmda.  The  road  now  skirts 
the  lake  and  soon  reaches 

7V2M.  B9,Y^no(* QrandHdtelBellevue;  BeauRivage;  Simplonjy 
where,  as  it  is  not  a  post  station ,  a  seat  in  the  dUigence  is  not 
always  procurable.  Diligence  daily  between  PaUanza  and  Doino 
d'Ossola,  see  above.     Steamboat,  see  p.  375. 

The  road  now  skirts  the  lake  (R.  94),  being  supported  almost 
fntirely  by  buttresses  of  granite  and  solid  masonry. 


PONTE  GRANDE.  62.  R<mU.    261 

12  M.  Arona,  see  p.  379.  Railway  by  GaUarate  to  Milan,  see 
p.  379 ;  by  Novara  to  Genoa,  and  Turin,  see  Baedekers  Northern 
Italy. 

62.    From  Vogogna  to  Vispach.     Monte  Moro. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  268^  140. 

From  Vogogna  or  Pallanzeno  (p.  260)  to  Macugnaga  7i|«  hr^.  (to  Ponte 
Grande  8)  Vanzone  2,  Ceppo  Morelli  2^a  H.\  Prequartero  'jj,  Pestarena 
1,  Borca  i|z,  Macugnaga  tfz  hr.);  in  the  reverse  direction  6  hrs.  —  Oood 
road  as  far  aa  Ceppo  Morelli.  From  Macugnaga  to  the  summit  of  the  Moro 
Pau  4 — 5  hrs..,  deacent  to  8aa$  4i(f  hrs.,  a  fatiguing  day^s  walk.  From 
Saas  to  Vitpach  5^|2  hrs.  (In  the  reverse  direction,  ascent  to  Stalden  2  hrs., 
Balen  3,  Saas  1,  Almagel  1,  Im  Lerch  lifs,  Mattmark  Inn  1,  Distelalp  iji, 
summit  of  the  pass  2,  descent  to  Macugnaga  2i|3  hrs.)-  —  Ouidt  unnecessary, 
except  for  the  pass  itself  ^  from  Saas  to  Macugnaga  10  fr.  \  horse  from  Vispach 
to  Saas  15,  from  Saas  to  the  Mattmark  Alp  20  fr.,  return -journey  in- 
cluded. One-horse  carr.  from  Vogogna  to  Ponte  Grande  7,  thence  to 
Vanzone  3,  Vanzone  to  Ceppo  Morelli  2,  Ceppo  Morelli  to  Premia  28  f^. 

The  Moro  Paaa  was  the  usual  Alpine  route  from  the  Valais  to  Italy 
before  the  construction  of  the  Simplon  road,  but  is  now  frequented  by 
pedestrians  only.  The  great  attraction  of  this  route  consists  in  the  im- 
mediate proximity  of  Monte  Rosa,  especially  near  Macugnaga ;  the  views 
are  of  striking  grandeur  and  will  bear  comparison  with  the  finest  in 
the  Chamouny  region  and  the  Bernese  Oberland. 

Vogogni^i  see  p.  260.  Immediately  beyond  the  Tillage  a  side- 
path  leads  to  the  Tota,  into  which  the  Anza  here  falls.  Boats  for 
crossing  the  Toaa  are  always  in  readiness.  Meadows  and  vine- 
yards are  then  traversed,  and  a  new  bridge  crossed  to  (3  M.) 
Pie  di  Mulera  (Hotel  Gavour),  the  first  village  in  the  *Val  An- 
z€uca.  (Travellers  descending  the  Yal  Anzasca,  and  bound  for 
Domo  d'Ossola,  proceed  direct  from  Pie  di  Mulera  to  Pallanzeno, 
p.  260,  on  the  Simplon  route;  one-horse  carr.  thence  to  Domo 
d'Ossola  3  fr.)  The  new  road  ascends,  passes  through  two  tun- 
nels, and  leads  along  fertile  and  vine-clad  slopes  overlooking  the 
Anza,  commanding  a  succession  of  charming  views ,  with  Monte 
Rosa  in  the  background.  Near  Calasca  (5  M.  from  Pie  di 
Mulera),  with  a  picturesque  waterfall,  the  -road  descends  to 
the  Anza,  which  it  skirts  for  some  distance.  Near  (2Y4  M.)  Ponte 
Grande  (^Albergo  al  Ponte  Grande,  carriages)  the  stream  which 
descends  from  the  Val  Bianea  forms  a  waterfall.  Gold  mines 
are  worked  here  with  some  success.  Opposite,  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Anza,  ties  Bannio  (*Osteria  del  Rampo). 

Vanione  (2283')  (*H6tel  des  Chasseurs  du  Mont  Rose), 
with  470  inhab.,  is  the  principal  village  in  the  valley.  The  p^hr.) 
chapel  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  Monte  Rosa.  The  carriage- 
road  terminates  at  Ceppo  Morelli  (H6tel  des  Alpes) ,  beyond  which 
a  path  constructed  of  timber  covered  with  earth  skirts  abrupt 
cliffs  as  far  as  Pestarena.  At  (V4  hr.)  Prequartero  a  path  diverging 
to  the  r.  crosses  the  Mondelli  -  Pass  (9321')  and  also  leads  to 
the  Distelalp  (p.  263)^  but  cgmmands  |io  view  of  Mojite  Rosa, 


2iS2     Bouie  6'}.  MAGUGNAgA.  i'rom  Vogogna 

Near  (20  min.)  tiainpioUi  the  path  crosses  the  Anza^  ascends  the 
Motgt'n.,  ahd  again  descends  to  the  bank  of  the  stream. 

PettarexLa  (Nuovo  Albergo  delU  Alpiy  well  spoken  of;  M£- 
hergo  dei  Minuri^  unpretending)  possesses  mines  of  some  value. 
The  road  is  to  be  continued  up  to  this  point.  Before  Pestareiia 
is  reached ,  the  footpath  leaves  the  Anzasca  valley ,  crosses  the 
bridge  to  the  1.,  and  ascends  a  rugged  slope.  Near  Borca  (Inn), 
the  next  village ,  the  first  where  German  is  spoken,  a  picturesque 
waterfall  is  passed,  and  the  traveller  obtains  the  first  unimpeded 
*view  of  Monte  Rosa. 

The  parish  of  Xaougaas^  consists  of  six  difTerent  villages: 
Pestarenuy  BorcUj  In  der  8tapf  (or  Siaffd)^  Zum  Strich ,  Auf  der 
Rive  J  and  Zertannen.  Borca  is  ^2  ^r.  from  Pestarena ,  and  the 
same  distance  from  In  der  Stapf.  The  other  villages  are  only 
a  few  minutes'  walk  apart.  Zum  Strich  is  generally  named 
Macugnaga  (51170  {*H6tel  Monte  Rosa,  R.  2,  B.  IVzt  ^-  3  fr- ; 
^Jiotel  Monte  Moro,  at  the  end  of  the  village,  same  charges;  the 
guides  Fran.y  Joa.  Mar.j  and  Alex.  Lochmatier,  and  Ferd.  Jm- 
aand  are  recommended).  The  village  is  beautifully  situated  in 
a  grassy  dale ,  enclosed  by  a  majestic  amphitheatre  of  snow-clad 
mountains,  unrivalled  among  the  Alps,  consisting  of  the  four  sum- 
mits of  Monte BoBa  (or  Gomerhom'),  viz.  the5i^naUcujppe(14,964'), 
Zumsteinspitte  (ISjOOeQ,  Hochste  (or  Dufour)  Spitze  (15,217'j, 
and  Nordend  (15,1320,  and  beyond  these  the  Cima  di  Jati 
(12,527'),  connected  with  the  Nordend  by  the  Old  Weissthor 
(11,7320,  all  of  which  rise  almost  perpendicularly  to  a  height 
of  6000—10,000'  above  the  vaUey.  —  The  Dufour-Spitze ,  the 
highest  peak,  was  ascended  from  Macugnaga  for  the  first  time  in 
July  1872  (ascent  from  Zermatt,  see  p.  273.) 

From  the  Belvedere,  i^ls  hr.  from  Strich^  P\4  hr.  above  Zertcmnen  (the 
last  mountain  hamlet),  this  amphitheatre  is  surveyed  at  a  glance  from 
summit  to  base.  The  view  also  embraces  the  glaciers ,  with  their  frow- 
ning rocks  and  ice-pinnacles ,  the  parish  of  Macugnaga  with  its  churches 
and  luxuriant  pastures  strewn  with  huge  masses  of  rock,  and  beyond  it 
beautiful  larch  forests  at  the  foot  of  grassy  slopes.  Guide  to  this  point 
hardly  necessary.  From  the  Hotel  du  Mont  Rose  cross  two  small  bridges 
to  the  r.,  and  follow  the  1.  bank  of  the  Anza  until  the  path  is  terminated 
by  rocks.  Here  cross  the  bridge  and  walk  towards  a  larch-clad  hill,  from 
which  the  post  on  the  summit  of  the  Belvedere  is  visible.  —  This  walk 
may  be  pleasantly  prolonged  by  skirting  the  amphitheatre  which  Monte 
Rosa  forms  here  (guide  necessary;  6  fr.,  not  including  the  Croza  Alp).  Cross 
the  glacier  to  the  (>|s  hr.)  Chalets  de  Jcuii^  and  skirt  the  slope  to  (if4  hr.) 
the  Chaleti  de  Pillar^  then  cross  the  glacier  towards  the  S.  to  the  Fedriolo 
Alp  (6952')  (milk) ,  and  return  either  by  the  high-lying  Croza  Alp ,  or  by 
a  shorter  route  across  the  glacier,  the  S.  arm  of  which  is  termed  the 
Fedriolo  Glacier. 

The  PisBO  Bianco  (10,190'),  which  is  ascended  in  5—6  (descent  3)  hrs., 
commands  a  fine  view ,  but  the  expedition  is  fatiguing  (the  last  hour  is 
over  snow;  guide  10  fr.). 

To  Zermatt  over  the  Weissthor,  10— 11  hrs.  from  Macugnaga  to 
the  Rifl'el  Inn  (p.  270),  only  suitable  for  experienced  climbers  with  steady 
heads,  and  accompanied  by  two  guides  (see  p.  262;  25  fr.  each).  This 
pass,  termed  the  New  Weiaathor  (11,851'),  lying  between  the  Cima  di  Jazi 


to   Vi$paeh.  MONTE  MOBO.  62.  RouU.     263 

(6.)  and  tbe  Strahlbam  (S.)y  and  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Old 
Weiuthor  (11,732'),  between  Monte  Rosa  and  the  Cima  di  Jazi,  which  is 
rarely  crosaed  on  account  of  its  extreme  difficulty,  in  a  fatiguing,  but 
very  attractive  route.  When  the  passage  is  made  from  Macugnaga,  the 
precipitous  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  pass  is  easier  than  the  descent  in  the 
contrary  direction,  but  the  expedition  is  more  fatiguing,  and  takes  1  hr. 
longer.  The  ascent  is  less  difficult  from  the  Mattmark  Alp  than  from 
Macugnaga.  Mountaineers  accustomed  to  the  ice  may  take  this  direct 
and  strikingly  imposing  route  in  preference  to  the  longer  and  less  inter- 
esting Moro  Pass,  or  the  Col  del  Turlo  (p.  383)  and  Matterjoch  (p.  268) 
route  to  Zerttatt. 

To  Varallo^  see  p.  382. 

The  rugged  and  fatiguing  path  to  the  Monte  Moro  leads  by  ^Auf 
der  Rive'  in  the  valley,  traverses  larch-wood,  stony  pastures,  and 
finally  rocks  and  (Y2 — 1  1^^*)  &  shelving  patch  of  snow.  The  summit 
of  the  pass  (9890'j  of  Monte  Moro  (or  Petersrueken)  is  indicated 
by  a  cross,  the  magnificent  view  from  which  embraces  the 
plains  of  Lombardy  to  the  S.,  the  valley  of  Sa&s,  bounded  by  the 
Saas  Grat  and  the  spurs  of  the  Simplon ,  to  the  N. ,  and  the 
Nesthoruer  of  the  Bernese  Alps  in  the  background.  The  Jodethorn 
(9974'),  ^l<i\Li.iQ  the  E.,  commanding  a  still  finer  prospect ,  may 
be  ascended  by  tolerable  walkers  without  difficulty. 

The  view  of  the  dreary  valley  of  Saas  is  by  no  means 
attractive.  The  path  crosses  several  patches  of  snow,  and  descends 
by  rude  steps  of  rock,  the  remains  of  the  old  bridle-path ,  to-  the 
Thdliboderiy  a  small  moss-grown  plain  contiguous  to  the  Seewinen 
Olacier.  (The  shorter  path,  mentioned  at  p.  261,  by  the  MondelU 
Pass  to  Cejypo  Morelli^  here  diverges  to  the  1.  for  travellers  com- 
ing from  Yispach.  It  is  as  good  as  the  path  to  Macugnaga,  but 
does  not  afi'ord  the  same  imposing  views  of  Monte  Rosa.)  De- 
scending rapidly  and  crossing  the  Thalibachy  the  path  now  reaches 
the  stone  chalets  of  the  Distelalp  (7191')  (I72  ^^i  ascent  21/2  hrs.). 

Immediately  below  the  Distel&Ip  begins  the  Mattmark  Alp, 
situated  at  the  upper  end  of  the  shallow  and  dirty  Mattmarksee 
(6965'),  a  small  lake  resembling  the  Lac  de  Gombal  in  the  Allee 
Blanche  (p.  231).  Down  to  the  year  1818  the  Schwarzberg 
Glacier^  which  descends  from  the  Strahlhom  (13,750'),  extended 
across  its  bed;  it  afterwards  receded,  but  has  again  advanced 
since  1849.  Traces  of  its  former  extent  exist  in  the  form  of  two 
huge  masses  of  rock,  the  smaller  of  which  was  deposited  in  1818, 
the  larger  at  an  earlier  date.  The  S.  side  of  the  smaller  mass 
is  polished  by  glacier  friction.  Towards  the  N.  the  valley  is  in- 
tersected by  the  (V2  kr.)  AUalin  or  Hohderch  Olaeietj  which 
forms  the  N.  boundary  of  the  Mattmarksee ,  and  is  the  source  of 
the  Visp  or  Vitge.  Travellers  coming  from  Yispach ,  are  recom- 
mended to  spend  the  night  at  the  *H6teL  du  Lae  Mattmark  (^2  hr. 
from  the  Distelalp),  as  they  can  then  reach  the  summit  of 
the  pass  before  the  noon-day  mists  conceal  Monte  Rosa  from 
view. 


264     Route  62.  ADLER  PASS.  From  Vogogna 

The  StaUihom  (11,803'),  which  riaes  to  the  E. ,  and  may  be  afleended 
from  the  inn  in  about  4  hrs.,  the  la«t  commanding  point  towards  the  E. 
in  this  direction,  affords  an  imposing  view  of  the  Eastern  Alps. 

Olacier-Pastes  to  Zermati.  The  three  following  routes  are  sui- 
'table  only  for  experienced  mountaineers,  accompanied  by  trustworthy 
guides. 

Over  the  Weiasthmr  (comp.  p.  262  \  guide  25  fr.) ,  less  laborious  from 
this  point  than  from  Macugnaga;  the  pass  itself,  however,  is  difficult,  the 
aid  of  the  axe  being  frequently  necessary.  The  route  skirts  the  W.  side 
of  the  Schwarzherg  Okteier^  and  ascends  on  the  ice  towards  the  S.,  passing 
numerous  crevasses ,  to  the  (5  hrs.)  summit  of  the  Pass.  Thence  to  the 
Riffel^  see  p.  273. 

The  Adler  Pass  (12,4610 ,  ascent  and  descent  difficult  \  guide  25  fr. 
(The  Editor  crossed  the  Adler  Pass,  Weissthor,  and  Alphubel,  p.  265,  in 
succession ,  during  the  last  week  of  Aug.  1863 ,  and  thought  the  two  last 
the  most  interesting,  and  least  laborious.)  The  route  crosses  the  Visp, 
ascends  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the  Schwarzherg  ^  and  reaches  (2  hrs.) 
the  snow-covered  Allalin  Glacier  and  the  (}\t  hr.)  Aeussere  Thurm  (9947*). 
Then  *|4  hr.  ascent  over  the  snow  to  the  Innere  Thurm  (10,879').  The 
Allalin  Pass  (see  below)  is  reached  from  this  point  by  crossing  the  glacier 
to  the  r. ,  towards  the  perpendicular  cliffs  of  the  Allalinhom  (13,235'), 
while  the  route  to  the  Adler  Pass  (1  hr.)  leads  straight  towards  the  op- 
ening between  the  Strah^wm  (13,750';  which  may  be  ascended  from  the 
pass  in  l^ls  hr.)  on  the  1.  and  the  Rimpfischhom  (13,790')  on  the  r.  The 
view  of  the  Monte  Rosa  chain  and  the  Matterhom  is  striking ;  towards 
the  X.  and  N.W.  it  is  intercepted  by  the  Bimpfischhorn.  The  descent 
from  the  pass  across  the  Adler  Qlacier  to  the  foot  of  the  Rimpjlschwand 
is  attended  with  great  difficulty  when  the  surface  of  the  ice  is  exposed, 
but  is  comparatively  easy  when  there  is  a  covering  of  snow.  Farther  on, 
the  route,  skirting  the  Rimpfischwand  and  crossing  rock,  moraine,  and  then 
part  of  the  Findelen  Olacier^  is  very  monotonous  and  fatiguing.  Front  the 
summit  of  the  pass  to  the  Fltth  Alp  (8569')  2ifz,  thence  to  Zermatt  2>(4  hrs. 
A  Russian  traveller  lost  his  life  through  an  incautious  act  in  1859,  by  fall- 
ing into  one  of  the  crevasses  of  the  Findelen  Glacier  His  remains  were 
recovered  and  interred  at  Zermatt  (p.  270). 

The  Allalia  Pass  (11,712'),  similar  to  the  Adler  Pass,  is  sometimes 
rendered  impassable  by  the  numerous  chasms  and  crevasses  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  Allalin  Glacier  (guide  25  fr.).  From  the  Aeussere  Thurm  (see 
above)  to  the  culminating  point  3i|2  hrs.  The  route  descends  to  the 
Jfellichen  Qlacier  and  along  the  IS.  base  of  a  ridge  which  separates  the 
latter  from  the  Wand  Qlacier  to  the  Mellwhen-Thal.  Thence  to  Zermatt, 
see  p.  265. 

The  view  of  the  AllaUn  Qlacier  is  one  of  the  most  impiising 
among  the  Alps.  Its  stupendous  masses  of  ice  tower  ahove  one 
another  in  the  most  fantastic  forms  and  stand  out  in  striking 
contrast  against  the  azure  sky.  The  moraine  contains  blocks  of 
'gabhro',  resembling  those  common  in  W.  Switzerland,  but  hith- 
erto discovered  nowhere  in  connection  with  the  soil  except  on 
the  Saasgrat.  Geologists  infer  from  this  that  the  glaciers  of  this 
region  must  once  have  extended  to  the  Jura  Mts. 

The  path  leads  through  a  rocky  wilderness  to  the  N.  end  of 
the  lake,  traverses  the  moraine,  and  in  wet  seasons  part  of  the 
glacier,  and  descends  by  the  chapel  of  Jm,  Lereh  (6378')  to  the 
Eyenalp,  A  final  retrospective  view  of  the  Allalin  Glacier  in 
all  its  grandeur,  with  the  vault  of  ice  from  which  the  Visp 
Issues,  is  obtained  here. 

Jhe  tyavpUey  now  reaches  (ly^  hr,  frojn  tbe  lake)   Mei^eren 


to  Vispaeh,  SAAS  IM  GBUND.  62.  BouU.     265 

(dGdOQ ,  eurxounded  by  pleasant  pastures ,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Furggen  Valley  ^  through  which  a  bridle-path  leads  to  the  S.E. 
to  the  Antrona  Valley  (p.  260).  Beyond  (1/4  hr.)  Almagel  (55080 
a  magnificent  waterfall ,  the  discharge  of  the  BothpkUt  Glacier; 
then  (1  hr.)  Saaa  tm  Orund  (see  below). 

On  the  1.  bank  the  traveller  fioon  observes  the  pilgrimage  -  stations 
leading  to  Fee*  a  village  of  pious  resort,  commanded  by  the  Allalitihornt 
or  Monte  Fee  (13,235'),  whose  glaciers  and  glistening  mantle  of  snow 
rising  above  the  forest  impart  a  striking  character  to  the  scene,  especially 
by  evening  -  light.  An  ^excursion  from  Saas  to  Fee  (1 — 2  hrs.)  will  amply 
repay  the  traveller  with  magnificent  views  of  the  glacier,  the  Mischabel- 
homer,  Allalinhom,  Alphubel  (13,808'),  etc.,  and  in  the  opposite  direction, 
the  Trifthomer  and  Weissmies  (13,255').  A  singular  feature  in  the  Fee 
Glacier  is,  that  it  surrounds  the  '•QleUcher  Alp"  (7006'),  a  pasture  inhabited 
in  summer.  (Ascent  by  the  Calvarienberg ,  descent  through  the  larch- 
forest,  guide  unnecessary.) 

From  Saas  to  the  Vispthal  by  the  Weistthor^  the  AdUr  PasSy  or  the 
AUalin  Pass^  see  above. 

The  ^Alphubelijooh  (12,474'),  between  the  Alphubel  and  Allalinhom 
(guide  25  fr.),  a  longer,  but  less  difficult  and  decidedly  more  interesting 
pass  than  the  three  above-mentioned  (10 — 12  hrs.  to  Zermatt),  affords 
an  uninterrupted  succession  of  stupendous  Alpine  scenes,  while  the  cul- 
minating point  commands  a  magnificent  panorama.  The  first  point  of  in- 
terest is  the  village  of  Fee,  with  the  striking  prospect  mentioned  above, 
then  the  extensive  Fee  Glacier  with  its  crevasses,  afterwards  the  Balferin, 
etc.  Route  to  the  Fee  Alp  s|4  hr. ,  OleUeher  Alp  *\^ ,  Langen/luh  11(4,  a 
ridge  of  rock  which  must  be  scaled  (drinking-water).  Thence  at  first  on 
the  moraine,  and  *\a  hr.  more  on  the  glacier,  which  ascends  considerably. 
The  wide  chasms  necessitate  numerous  digressions.  After  2  hrs.  (from  the 
Langenfluh  3  hrs.),  level  snow-fields  are  traversed  to  the  summit  of  the 
pass  (71(2  hrs.  from  Saas).  Then  a  descent  to  the  small  Wand  Glacier 
and  the  ridge  which  separates  it  from  the  Mellichen  -  Glacier ,  with  its 
magnificent  ice-pinnacles,  and  affords  an  acceptable  resting-place.  The 
descent  is  then  continued  on  the  K.  side  of  the  glacier,  turning  after 
Ijs  hr.  to  the  r.  at  the  foot  of  the  Wand  Glacier,  towards  the  Hellichen- 
Thal,  and  in  2^i  hrs.  the  Tcisch  Alp  is  reached.  A  direct  but  disagree- 
able forest-path  leads  from  this  point  along  the  E.  slope  to  Zermatt  in 
11 12  hr.  \  but  the  pleasanter  route  descends  to  Tasch ,  and  leads  through 
the  valley   to  Zermatt  (from   the  summit  of   the  pass  4 — 5  hrs.). 

The  route  over  the  Gaaaanried  Fan  (12,060')  traverses  the  Hannig  Alp 
(7064'),  between  the  Melligberg  and  DichUlherg^  ascends  rapidly  to  the  Hoch- 
haim  Glacier^  and  leads  past  the  perpendicular  cliffs  of  the  Getnshom  to 
the  culminating  point,  to  the  H*.  of  the  Ulricfishorn  (12,894').  The  descent 
across  the  Gassenried  Glacier  presents  less  difficulty.  This  route  is  ha- 
zardous at  places,  and  is  rarely  traversed. 

An  interesting  pass  from  Saas  across  the  Bimeli  Pass  to  the  Simplon 
Hospice  (p.  258)  in  6,  and  to  Brieg  in  10  hrs.  Experienced  mountaineers 
are  recommended  to  devote  2  hrs.  additional  to  the  ascent  of  the  Matt- 
wdldhom  (10,729'),  of  which  there  is  an  admirable  panorama  in  the  ^Jahr- 
buch '  of  the  Swiss  Alpine  Club  for  1864,  by  Studer  of  Bern. 

Saai  im  Onmd  (5124')  (H6itL  Monte  Moro ,  substantially  built 
of  stone;  H6tel  Monte  £osa;  guides:  Franz  Burgener,  Franz 
Andenmatteny  Jos.  Peter  and  Jos.  Marie  Zwrhriggen)  is  .the  prin- 
cipal place  in  the  valley.  Below  it  is  a  narrow  defile  between 
broken  masses  of  rock.  The  fertile  vale  of  (1  hr.)  Balen  (5026^), 
at  the  E.  foot  of  the  Balfrin  (12,477') ,  soon  opens ,  but  the  path 
does  not  pass  through  the  village.  For  a  short  distance  it  returns 
\^  th^  r,  bank,  and  then  l^ads  along  the  lofty  slop«  on  the  1.    The 


266     BouU  63.  STALDEN. 

profound  and  narrow  gorge  with  its  foaming  waterfalls  is  flanked 
with  a  succession  of  wild  and  sombre  precipices.  Numerous 
votive  crosses,  bearing  a  date  only,  have  been  erected  here  with 
the  pious  hope  of  averting  another  inundation  of  the  Mattmarksee. 
Near  Stalden  the  Saaser  Visp  falls  into  the  Oomer  Visp  (p.  267), 
which  descends  from  Zermatt  and  is  crossed  by  the  Kinnbriieke ,  a 
.bridge  160'  high. 

(3  hrs.)  Stalden  (2736Q,  see  below.  Travellers  proceeding 
from  Stalden  to  Saas  should  observe  that  after  crossing  the  Kinn- 
brilcke  their  path  leads  to  the  1.  beyond  two  chalets.  From 
Stalden  to   Vispach,  see  below. 

From  Stalden  by  Staldenried ,  Otpon ,  and  tbe  pass  to  the  X.  of  the 
Ochtenhom  (SSdCK)  to  a  point  on  the  Simplon  road  below  the  hospice  (p.  258) 
in  11  hrs.  (with  guide ,  15  fr.  and  fee ;  Joh.  Furrer  at  Stalden  is  recom- 
mended) ,  a  fatiguing  but  attractive  walk.  Fine  views  of  the  Fletschhorn 
to  the  S.,  and  of  the  Bernese  Alps  to  the  X. 

63.    From  Vispach  to  Zermatt,  and  over  the 

Matteijoch  to  Aosta. 

Comp.  MapSf  pp.  140^  268. 

From  Vispach  to  Zermatt  8 — 9  (in  the  reverse  direction  7 — 8)  hrs. 
walk  (Stalden  I8J4  hrs.,  St.  >7iklaus  2i[s hrs. ;  Randa  6^(2  M.,  Tasch  2i{4M., 
Zermatt  3'|2  M.)*  Bridle-path  to  St.  l^iklaus ,  carriage-road  thence  to  Zer- 
matt. Guide  quite  unnecessary  \  horse  from  Vispach  to  Stalden  5,  to  St. 
Niklaus  10,  or  if  a  night  is  spent  there  12  fr.,  to  Zermatt  20  fr. ;  carriage 
for  two  persons  from  St.  !Niklaus  to  Zermatt  15  fr.  \  porters  5  fr.  per  day ; 
return-journey  included  in  each  case. 

From  Zermatt  to  the  Matterjoch  (Th^odule  Pass)  S^js,  thence  to 
Val  Toumanche  4  hrs.,  guide  necessary  (see  below).  From  Val  Tournanche 
to  Chatillon  (without  guide)  4  hrs. ,  thence  by  the  high  -  road  to  Aosta 
15  M.    Between   Chatillon  and  Aosta  diligence  twice  daily,   see  p.  269. 

The  route  from  Vispach  to  Zermatt  is  replete  with  interest,  being  varied 
by  picturesque  rocks,  waterfalls,  and  glacier-streams.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  Vispthal  the  beautiful  Balfrin  (p.  256)  becomes  visible,  and  beyond 
Stalden  the  majestic  Bruneckhom  (12,6!^0.  Beyond  St.  ISiklaus  the  Little 
Matterhorn  (12,849'),  the  Breithom  (13,685'),  and  in  front  of  these  the  Riffel- 
horn  (9616')  face  the  spectator ;  and  finally,  as  Zermatt  is  approached,  the 
great  Matterhorn  {Mont  Cervin  y  14,705')  itself  towers  behind  the  Hifmli 
(9492').  In  addition  to  these,  many  other  peaks  are  visible  on  both  sides, 
from  which  numerous  glaciers  extend  into  the  valleys  below. 

The  Pass  of  the  Matterjoch  to  Val  Tournanche  may  be  crossed  with 
one  guide  in  fine  weather,  otherwise  two  are  desirable.  In  fine  summer 
or  autumn  weather  the  passage  is  unattended  with  difficulty  or  danger, 
and  is  frequently  undertaken  by  ladies.  It  is  less  fatiguing  from  Le  Breuil 
(on  the  S.  side)  than  from  Zermatt. 

Near  one  of  the  last  houses  on  the  S.  side  of  Vispach  (2155' ; 
p.  255)  a  finger-post  indicates  the  way  to  Saas  and  Zermatt,  to 
the  r. ,  in  the  direction  of  the  Visp.  The  path  skirts  the  r. 
bank  of  the  stream,  the  turbid  waters  of  which  occupy  the  entire 
breadth  of  the  valley  about  100  feet  below.  At  the  (IV4  hi) 
NeuhrueU  (new  bridge)  the  path  crosses  to  the  1.  bank ,  and 
gradually  ascends  to  (V2  hr.)  Stalden  (2736')  {Trauhe,  rustic), 
a  village  in   a  fertile  district,    situated  on  a  mountain-spur,    at 


ST.  NIKLAUS.  63.  Route.    267 

the  foot  of  which  the  two  branches  of  the  Yisp  (Saaaet  and 
Oomer)  unite ,  and  the  valley  divides.  The  vast  group  of  the 
Mischahely  the  N.E.  prolongation  of  the  Monte  Rosa  mass ,  separ- 
ates the  Nicolai-Thal  from  the  Saasthal.  The  culture  of  the  vine 
extends  about  2  M.  beyond  Stalden ,  the  vineyards  sometimes 
overhanging  dangerous  precipices. 

The   path  ascends   a  steep   slope  for  ^4  hr.,  and  then  skirts  * 
the  mountain  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Visp.     Above,  to  the  r.,  is 
the  little  church   of  Emd   with  a  group   of  cottages,    situated  on 
so  shelving  a  pasture ,  that  the  local  wits  declare  the  very  fowls 
of  Emd  must  be  rough-shod  to  enable  them  to  keep  their  footing. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  valley ,  the  Yisp  is  crossed  by  a  bridge 
(3/4  hr.),  to  which  the  broad  path  from  Stalden  descends  in 
windings.  {The  old  footpath  descending  more  directly  to  the 
bridge  is  not  recommended.)  The  path  now  ascends  the  r.  bank 
(the  old  path,  lower  down,  having  been  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake  in  1855,  p.  256)  to  the  (1  hr.)  second  bridge  over  the- 
Yisp ,  where  the  valley  expands,  and  follows  the  1.  bank  to  (72  hr.^ 

St.  Hiklaof  (3819')  l*Orand  Hotel  8t.  Nicolas,  R.  2—3, 
B.  IV4,  D.  2V2,  L.  and  A.  8/4  fr.),  the  capital  of  the  valley,  with 
770  inhab.  (From  St.  Niktaus  over  the  Augstbord-Pass  to  Gru^ 
ben,  see  p.  250.) 

Beyond  St.  Niklaus  the  carriage-road  crosses  the  stream  by  a 
(^2  M.)  new  bridge,  skirts  the  r.  bank,  and  enters  a  pine-forest; 
about  2  M.  farther  a  lofty  waterfall  of  several  leaps  is  seen  on 
the  opposite  bank.  The  village  of  (^/^M.^  Herhrigm  (4134')  is 
next  passed,  and  2^2  ^'  beyond  it  the  road  commands  a  view  of 
the  Weisthom  (14,803') ,  from  which  the  Biea-OlacUr  descends- 
precipitously  into  the  valley  on  the  i.  The  disciples  of  the  geolo- 
gist Agassiz  maintain ,  that ,  if  the  theories  of  De  Saussures 
(comp.  Introd.  XIY)  were  correct,  this  glacier  must  long  since 
have  slipped  down  into  .  the  valley ,  unless  frozen  to  the  earth 
beneath.  High  up  on  the  1.  is  seen  the  Feati  Qlacier,  which 
descends  from  the  Dam  ri4,941'),  the  highest  peak  of  the  Mi- 
schabel,  ascended  in  185o  for  the  first  time. 

Between  the  villages  of  (8/4  M.)  Banda  (4740')  (Hdtel  du 
D6me)y  and  (21/4  M.)  Tttsoh  (4777'),  situated  amidst  fresh  green 
pastures,  the  traces  of  a  landslip  which  is  said  to  have  buried  an 
entire  village  are  still  visible.  About  1^2  M.  beyond  Tasch  the 
old  bridle-path  crosses  the  profound  rocky  gorge  of  the  im- 
petuous Yisp  by  a  *bridge  (Hochsteg)  to  which  an  interesting 
digression  may  be  made  from  the  new  road.  The  latter  crosses 
the  stream  at  Biihl  (5023'),  a  little  farther  on.  Between  the 
mountains  on  the  r.  the  stupendous  pyramid  of  the  Matterhom 
(p.  271)  now  suddenly  comes  in  sight,  while  to  the  1.  stretch 
vast  expanses   of  snow   and   glacier.      The  road  then  passes  th& 


268     BouU  63.  THEODULE  PASS. 

(1^4  M.*)  Spitssbriiekej  and  traverses  green  meadows  to  ZermaU^ 
about  12  M.  from  St.  Niklaus. 

Zermatt,  Biifelberg,  Oomer-Orat,  etc.,  see  R.  64.  (From 
the  Eiffel  Inn  to  the  Matterjoch  see  p.  272.) 

The  path  from  Zermatt  to  the  Matterjoch  ascends  the  bank  of 
the  Visp ,  crosses  the  Z'Mutibach ,  and  leads  to  the  hamlets  of 
(1  hr.)  Blatten  and  (^2  1^^-)  Zum  See.  The  path,  which  thus  far 
is  also  the  route  to  the  Schwarz-See  (p.  274)  and  the  Hornli 
(p.  274),  now  becomes  steeper.  After  the  Oartenbach  or  Furggen- 
bach  is  crossed,  where  it  issues  from  a  huge  vault  of  ice  in  the 
Furggen  -  Glacier ,  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  Gorner  Glacier 
(p.  272),  Monte  Rosa,  and  the  Rothhorn  is  enjoyed  at  the 
point  termed  ^Aufder  Mauer.  On  the  r.  is  the  Furggen  Glacier, 
and  behind  it  towers  the  Matterhorn  (see  p.  271),  which  faces  the 
traveller  the  whole  way. 

From  Zermatt  to  the  lower  end  of  the  Upper  ThSoduU 
Glacier  3  hrs. ;  thence  an  ascent  of  2  hrs.  on  the  glacier,  which 
is  frequently  covered  with  snow,  but  in  some  seasons  presents 
numerous  crevasses  (rope  not  to  be  neglected) ,  to  the  *!l[atteijoch 
(10,899^)  or  ThioduU  Pass,  situated  between  the  Great  and  Little 
Matterhorn  (^Pavilion  du  Th£oduLe,  a  small  auberge  with  four 
beds,  refreshments  not  too  dear  considering  the  circumstances, 
'vin  brul^  3  fr.  a  bottle).  De  Saussure  and  his  son  spent  three 
days  here  in  1792,  while  taking  observations.  Traces  of  the 
intrenchments  of  TheoduUy  constructed  by  the  Piedmontese  in 
the  middle  ages  as  a  protection  against  incursions  from  the  Yalais, 
are  visible  lower  down.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  limited, 
especially  on  the  Italian  side. 

The  S.  slope  of  the  Th^odule  Glacier  usually  presents  fewer 
crevasses  than  the  N.  side ,  and  the  guides  frequently  discard  the 
rope  here,  but  it  is  safer  not  to  dispense  with  it,  especially 
after  snow.  After  3/4  hr.  the  S.  extremity  of  the  glacier  is 
reached.  The  path  then  leads  across  steep  and  marshy  moraines, 
and  at  length  firm  ground,  to  the  (I72  1^^)  *H6^l  du  Mont 
C«rt7m  (6955')  (R.  2,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.),  and  in  10  min.  more  t6 
the  chalets  of  Le  Breuil  (6594'),  or  Breil. 

The  path  next  traverses  a  wild  and  romantic  valley,  passing 
(3/4  hr.)  a  very  picturesque  waterfall  (which  may  be  approached 
by  means  of  a  wooden  gallery  where  it  is  seen  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage), beyond  which  It  descends  rapidly  to  (3/4  hr.)  the 
village  of  Yal  Tonmanehe,  or  Valtomenche  (5082^)  (^Hotel  du 
Mont  Rose,  unpretending). 

From  Val  Tournanche  or  Le  Breuil  over  the  Col  des  dimes  Bkmche* 
into  the  C/icUlant  Valley^  and  thence  to  Varallo  or  Macugnaga,  see  R.  95.  — 
Good  guides:  Jean.  Ant.  Carrel^  or  '■Bersaglier^^  Jean.  Jos.  and  Jean  Pierre 
Maquignat  (these  are  recommended  for  the  Matterhorn,  p.  271),  Jean  Bapt. 
Bic,  A.  Pelissier,  the  five  brothers  Pession,  etc. 

The  path  now  descends    to  the   lower  part   of  the  valley^ 


tfWbinnw«v  Stunden. . 


TfztZar. 


CfiATILLON.  63.  Route,    269 

Crosses  the  stream  ^  and  reaches  a  house  on  the  r. ,  where  it 
turns  to  the  r. ,  passing  round  the  house  (not  over  the  bridge). 
Remains  of  a  Roman  aqueduct  occasionally  appear  at  a  great 
height  on  both  sides  of  the  valley.  After  2—3  hrs.  the  vegetation 
begins  to  assume  the  Italian  character.  On  emerging  from  a 
dark  chestnut-wood,  the  traveller  perceives  Chdtillon  (4  hrs.  from 
Val  Tournanche)  far  below  in  the  broad  and  beautiful  valley 
of  the  Doire. 

Ch&tUlon  (1738')  {*H6tel  de  Londres;  Lion  d'Or,  a  poor 
auberge) ,  with  299z  inhab. ,  the  capital  of  an  Italian  district, 
with  numerous  foundries  and  handsome  houses ,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  road  from  Aosta  to  Ivrea  (whence  railway  to  Turin, 
comp.  Baedeker  8  Northern  Italy).  The  road  to  Aosta  (diligence 
twice  daily),  which  ascends  hence  through  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Doire  (Dora  Baltea,  p.  231) ,  is  shaded  by  walnuts,  chestnuts, 
and  vines.  The  wine  of  Chamhave  (1624'),  a  village  on  the 
road,  about  3  M.  from  Ghitillon,  is  one  of  the  most  esteemed 
in  Piedmont.  The  slight  eminence  here  commands  a  magnificent 
retrospective  view  towards  the  £. ,  embracing  several  of  the 
snow-peaks  of  Monte  Rosa  (p.  262),  the  Jumeaux  (twin  peaks, 
p.  272)  on  the  r.  ,  and  the  peak  of  the  Matterhorn  (p.  271)  and 
the  Matterjoch  on  the  1.  The  background  to  the  W.  la  bounded 
by  the  chain  of  Mont  Blanc  (p.  221). 

At  the  entrance  of  a  valley  on  the  1.  stands  the  picturesque 
Castle  of  Fenis.  Nus ,  an  insignificant  village  with  the  ruins  of 
a  castle ,  is  halfway  between  Chatillon  and  Aosta. 

A  footpath  ascends  from  Villefranche  to  the  chateau  of  Quart 
\)n  the  hill  above  (now  used  as  an  Infirmary) ,  commanding  a  fine 
view,  and  descends  on  the  other  side. 

(15  M.)  Aosta  (1912'),  see  p.  239. 


64.   Zermatt  and  its  Environs. 

R6tels.  ^HdTEL  du  Mont-Cervin  and  ^HdrsL  du  Mokt-RoSe, 
both  belonging  lo  M.  Better ^  the  proprietor  of  the  Kiffel  Inn  (p.  270)  \ 
R.  2i|8,  B.  li|2,  D.  3i|2,  S.  2i|8,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.  (Engl,  books,  maps,  etc.  for 
the  use  of  travellers).  The  Win  ordinaire'*  at  these  houses  is  often  bad.  — 
*  HdTEL  DES  Alpes  ,   at  the  foot  of  the  Matterjoch  path,  less  pretending. 

Onides  and  Horses.  Peter  Taugwalder^  father  and  son  \  Johann  Zvm 
Tattffwald ;  Franz  Biner  (four  of  that  name),  Ignaz  and  Jos.  Biner ;  Peter 
Perren,  a  carpenter  \  Jos.  and  Franz  Perren ;  P.  Knubel ;  J.  M.  Lockmatter 
(these  two  suitable  for  the  Matterhorn)  \  A.  Imboden ;  Jos.  Branischen ; 
J.  M.  Kronig^  etc.  The  Zermatt  guides  are  generally  well  acquainted  with 
the  different  routes,  and  most  of  the  younger  men  speak  French.  Fees : 
(Corner  Glacier  3,  Findelen  or  Zmutt  Glacier  6  fr.  \  Gomer  Grat,  Roth- 
horn,  Schwarz  -  See,  Hornli  6  \  Mettelhorn,  culminating  point  of  Matter- 
joch 8;  over  the  Matterjoch  to  Val  Tournanche  15,  to  Chatillon  20^  Cima 
di  Jasi  12^  Weissthor,  Adler  Pass,  Alphube^och  25^  Col  d'H^rens  to  Evo- 
lena  25  \  Trift  Joch  to  Zinal  or  Ayer  30 ;  Monte  Rosa  40  \  Matterhorn 
100  fr.  (or,  if  the  descent  be  made  to  Breuil,  150  fr.U  Monte  Rosa  tour  7, 
ordinary  excursions   6  fr.   per  day.    •—    Hors^   to  Vispach  20,   Riffel   8^ 


"270     RouU  S4.  ZERMATT.  Riffelberg. 

Gorner  Grat  12,  8chwarz  -  See  10,  Upper  Th^odule  Glacier  15  fr.^  Horses 
for  the  Gorner  Grat.  are  rarely  to  be  had  at  the  Riffel. 

Sriad  Plants  from  the  neighbourhood,  very  complete  coII||ctions  at  the 
luciuse  of  H .  Ruden^  the  cure  ^  also  of  -insects.  ' 

Zermatt,  a  village  with  480  inhab. ,  called  by  the  PiedflSontese 
jPraborgnCy  is  magniflcently  situated  5315'  above  the  level  of  the 
jsea  (1870'  higher  than  Chamouny),  in  a  green  valley  suTrounded 
with  flrs,  into  which  three  glaciers  (the  Findelen,  Zermatt  or 
<Tomer,  and  Z'Mutt)  descend.  The  churchyard  contains  the 
Ttombstones  of  JIf .  v.  Orote  (p.  264),  Lord  F.  Douglasy  Mr.  Haddo, 
and  Michel  Croz  (p.  271). 

*'  Zermatt  has  of  late  years  become  a  formidable  rival  of  the  Bemeae 
Oberland,  once  the  '  ultima  Thule '  of  the  aspiring  tourist,  surpassing  it 
in  the  magnificence  of  its  flaciers,  although  inferior  in  attraction  and 
variety.  In  no  other  locality  is  the  traveller  so  completely  admitted  into 
the  heart  of  the  Alpine  world  as  at  Zermatt.  H^  finds  himself  as  it 
were  in  the  very  sanctuary  of  the  Spirit  of  the  Alps,  who  thus  seems  to 
address  him; 

'^rhe  Glacier''s  cold  and  restless  mass 

Moves  onward  day  by  day^ 

But  I  am  he  who  bids  it  pass, 

Or  with  its  ice  delay. 

I  am  the  Spirit  of  tlie  place. 

Could  make  the  mountain  bow. 

And  quiver  to  his  caveru'd  base  — 

And  what  with  me  wouldst  thouf^    Manfred. 

The  Panorama  from  the  Gorner  Grat,  though  destitute  of  the  common 
aittributes  of  the  picturesque,  still  cannot  fail  to  impress  the  spectator 
^ivitli  its  unparalleled  grandeur.  The  panorama  from  Miirren  (p.  113)  bears 
;soine  resemblance  to  that  from  the  Rifielberg,  but  the  latter  is  by  far  the 
more  imposing  from  its  immediate  proximity  to  the  mighty  expanses  of 
snow  and  the  icy  crests  of  Monte  Rosa  and  its  neighbours,  in  the  midst 
of  which  the  spectator  stands.  The  mineralogist,  botanist,  and  even  the 
entomologist  will  find  ample  scope  for  their  pursuits  at  Zermatt. 

The  first  destination  of  the  traveller  is  usually  the 

Riffelberg  and  Gt>mer  Orat. 

The  Hotel  on  the  Riffelberg  (8428',  3113'  above  Zermatt)  being  often 
full,  it  is  advisable  to  enquire  beforehand  at  Zermatt  if  accommodation  can 
be  bad  on  th6  Riffel,  and  if  possible  to  procure  a  ticket  entitling  the 
holder  to  a  bed  (R«  3,  D.  4,  B.  l^jz,  A.  1  fr.).  In  the  height  of  the  season 
the  traveller  should  endeavour  to  reach  the  top  at  an  early  hour. 

The  12  hrs.  walk  from  Vispach  (comp.  p.  266)  to  the  Riffel  may 
be  divided  conveniently  by  spending  the  night  at  St.  J^iklaus.  The 
traveller  then  reaches  the  Rifiel  on  the  second  day  with  strength  and 
energy  unimpaired. 

The  bridle-path,  which  ascends  rapidly   (3,  descent  2  hrs.), 

cannot  be  mistaken  (guide  unnecessary).     At  the  H6tel  du  Mont 

Rose  turn  to  the  r,  (leaving  the   church  on  the  1.),  and  ascend 

in  a  Btxaight   direction   by  a   narrow  path  between  two   houses; 

5  tnip,,  bridge  across  the  Visp ,  then   ascend  through  meadows; 

iQ  piip.,  at  the  church  of  Winkelmatten,  turn  to  the  r. ;  3  min,, 

i[>ridge   over   the  FindeUnbachj    the    discharge    of   the    Findelen 

Glacier  (p.  274);    here  turn  to  the  r.,  cross  the  meadow  to  the 

f . ,   then    ascend   ra|)idl)ii,    passing  between   (7  min.)  two  hute ; 


JT' 


^ 


4 


.^■f^'' 


^i^^%. 


Qomer  Grat.  ZERMATT.  64,  RouU.     271 

1/4  hr. ,  a  beautiful  wood  of  pine^  and  Alpine  cedars ,  the  latter 
particularly  fine  (see  p.  324),  is  next  traversed,  and  the  path 
ascends  to  the  1.  (that  to  the  r.  leads  to  the  Gorner  Glacier, 
p.  272).  A  precipitous  and  rocky  path  (Feli-Stutz),  fringed  with 
rhododendrons,  is  then  ascended;  20  min.,  the  Sehwegmattj 
whence  the  Visp,  as  it  issues  from  the  Gorner  Glacier ,  and  the 
outlet  of  the  Furggen  Glacier  (p.  268)  higher  up  are  visible; 
1/2  hr.,  the  Riffel  Chalets  on  the  Augatkummenmatt  (ascent  from 
Zermatt  II/2  hr.),  where  milk  and  bread  may  be  procured. 

The  traveller  now  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  Riffelberg.  The 
path  to  the  Riffel  Inn  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  little  stream. 
It  ascends,  first  in  a  straight  direction,  and  afterwards  in  zig- 
zaigs,  to  the  upper  chalets,  and  thence  towards  the  r.  to  the 
inn,  IY2  hr.  from  the  Augstknmmenmatt.  [Path  to  the  Riffelhom, 
see  p.  272.  In  descending  from  the  Riffelberg  to  Zermatt  the 
traveller  may  visit  the  waterfall  near  the  Source  of  the  Visp  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  Gorner  Glacier ,  see  p.  272 ,  by  making 
a  digression  of  1  hr.  (guide  necessary).  This  path  also  passes 
the  fall  of  the  Z'Muttbach  (p.  268),  and  presents  considerable 
variety.] 

The  •^Gorner  Grat  {Weiss,  or  Stoek  Grat,  10,290',  4975' 
above  Zermatt),  a  rocky  ridge  rising  from  the  table-land  of  the 
Riffelberg ,  18i62'  higher  than  the  inn ,  is  reached  thence  in 
l*/2  lir.  (guide  unnecessary,  bridle-path  for  the  first  hour).  The 
summit  commands  a  most  imposing  scene  (see  panorama);  and 
the  spectator  is  entirely  surrounded  by  snow-peaks  and  glaciers. 
From  the  Monte  Rosa  and  Matterhom  such  gigantic  buttresses 
extend  towards  the  N. ,  viz.  the  mountains  between  the  twin- 
valleys  of  the  Visp  and  the  Saas,  the  Misehabelhomer  (the  Tasch- 
horn  or  Lagerhom,  14,758',  the  Dom,  14,941',  and  the  Nadel- 
hom,  14,220'),  as  well  as  those  opposite  them  (the  Gahelhomerj 
13,366',  the  Rothhom,  14,184',  and  the  Weisshom,  14,803'),  that 
these  seem  to  contest  the  palm  with  the  giants  of  the  central  chain 
themselves.  The  view  of  Monte  Rosa  itself,  snow-white  from 
base  to  summit,  sometimes  disappoints.  Two  only  of  its  peaks  are 
visible  (one,  however,  the  highest),  and  altogether  its  appearance 
is  less  imposing  than  from  the  Italian  side.  The  most  striking 
object  in  the  whole  panorama,  and  incontestably  the  chief  boast  of 
Zermatt,  is  the  XatterhoriL  (14,705'),  Mont  Cervin,  or  Grande 
Couronne,  Ital.  Monte  SUvio.  (With  regard  to  its  origin  see 
Introd.  XIII.) 

The  Matterhorn  waa  ascended  for  the  first  time  on  14th  July  1865,  by 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Hudson^  Lord  Francis  Douglaty  Messrs.  Whymper  and  Haddo, 
with  the  guides  Michael  Croz  and  two  Taugwaldert  (p.  269).  In  descending 
Mr.  Haddo  lost  his  footing  not  far  from  the  summit,  and  was  precipitated 
along  with  Mr.  Hudson,  Lord  Francis  Douglas,  and  Cros,  to  a  depth  of  40(Xy 
towards  the  Matterhom  Glacier.  Mr.  Whymper  and  the  two  other  guides 
escaped  by  the  breaking  of  the  rope.  -^  Thrae  days  later  the  ascent  w^^ 
again  accomplished  by  four  ^u)d^  from  Le  Breuil  (p.  26B) ,  and  it  is  nov^ 


272     RouU  $4.  ZSRMAtT.  Oomer  Otaeht. 

made  several  times  annually,  both  from  Zennatt  and  Le  Breuil.  The 
rock  has  been  blasted  at  the  most  difficult  points,  and  a  rope  attached  to 
it.  The  previous  night  is  usually  spent  at  a  hut  two-thirds  of  the  way  up 
which  contains  blankets,  a  stove,  and  cooking  utensils,  about  7i|2  hrs.  from 
Zermatt;  but  experienced  climbers  may  in  fine  weather  accomplish  the 
whole  expedition  in  one  day,  if  Le  Breuil  be  quitted  soon  after  midnight. 

The  *Oomer  Olaoier,  which  is  more  extensive  than  the  Mer 
de  Glace  at  Ghamonny ,  winds  like  a  huge  snake  round  the  Riffel- 
berg  from  E.  to  W. ,  being  joined  in  its  course  by  no  fewer  than 
ten  other  glaciers.  The  Visp  (see  p.  271)  issues  from  it  about 
2  M.  above  Zermatt,  whence  its  source  is  visible.  The  glacier 
advances  20  —  30'  annually.  To  the  N.  the  FindeUn  Glacier 
is  visible  ,  descending  from  the  Gima  di  Jazi ;  to  the  W.  are  the 
Furggen  Glacier  (on  the  1.)  and  the  Zmutt  Glacier  (on  the  r.}, 
descending  from  the  Matterhorn. 

Another  path  from  the  Augstkummenmatt  (p.  271)  to  the 
Riffel  Inn,  ^2  ^^*  ionger,  than  the  above,  but  more  interesting 
from  its  frequent  proximity  to  the  Gorner  Glacier,  crosses  the 
brook  near  the  chalet  and  ascends:  after  40  min.  (avoid  path  to 
ther.  )  it  turns  to  the  1.,  and  winds  gradually  round  the  rocky  N. 
W.  slope  of  the  Riffelberg,  the  haunt  of  the  marmot,  at  first  to- 
wards the  Matterkomj  and  afterwards  towards  the  beautiful  and 
dazzling  snows  of  the  Breithom  (13,648');  after  passing  a  (^4  l^'O 
chalet,  the  ZwiUinge  (Jumeaux),  Ocu tor  (13,879')  on  the  E.  and 
PoUt^  (13,432')  on  the  W. ,  become  visible  beside  the  latter ; 
Y4  hr.  the  Gagikopf,  an  enormous  mass  of  rock.  Then  straight 
towards  the  depression ,  skirting  the  N.  side  of  the  Biffelhom 
(see  below),  and  passing  (1/2  hr.)  a  small  stream  issuing  from  the 
snow.  Monte  Rosa  is  visible  through  an  opening  towards  which 
the  path  leads;  the  little  Riffelhom  See  is  passed  on  the  1.,  and 
in  1/4  hr.  the  Bothe  Ktunmen  is  reached.  To  the  W.,  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  is  the  Biffelhom  (9616'),  a  rocky  peak  of 
grotesque  form,  600'  higher  than  the  Rothe  Kummen,  and  ac- 
cessible only  to  active  climbers.  The  Riffel  Inn,  1/2  ^'-  towards 
the  N.W.,  is  visible  as  soon  as  the  brow  of  the  mountain  is  reached. 
The  ridge  to  the  E.  near  the  Rothe  Kummen,  is  the  Gomer  Grat 
(p.  271),  the  ascent  of  which  from  this  point  occupies  1^2  b^* 

The  Gugel  (8881'),  an  eminenct  to  the  1.  of  the  hotel,  afTords 
a  good  survey  of  the  Findelen  and  Adler  glaciers  and  the  Adler 
Pass. 

The  Riffel  Hotel  is   admirably  adapted    as  head-quarters  for 

ExonrsionB  on  the  Olaciersy  which  on  nearer  acquaintance  lose 

many  of  the   terrors   with  which  the  imagination   invests  them. 

Guides  had  better  be  engaged  at  Zermatt,  as  they  are  not  always 

to  be  met  with   on  the  Riffel.     The  most  interesting  of  these 

excursions  are  here  enumerated. 

The  ascent  of  the  *M%ttexjoch  (10,899")  (p.  268)  is  recommended,  as 
far  as  the  auberge  (p.  268),  even  to  those  who  do  not  purpose  proceediiM:  to 
|he  valley  of  Aosta.  From  the  Riffel  4i|4  hrs.  (from  Zermatt  S^js,  comp.  p.  268). 


MofUe  Rosa,  ZERMATT.  64.  RouU.     273 

The  path  descends  from  the  Riffel  Inn,  towards  the  1.,  by  the  Riffelhom 
to  the  Oomeir  Olacier^  which  it  crosses  \  it  then  ascends  the  rocky  slope 
beyond,  to  the  Thiodule  Qlacier  (p.  268),  and  thence  to  the  culminating 
point.  The  view  is  limited,  especially  on  the  Italian  side,  but  the  whole 
excursion  is  replete  with  scenes  of  grandeur,  and  many  views  preferable 
even  to  those  trom  the  Gomer  Grat  are  obtained.  —  From  the  summit  of 
the  Pass  the  *Brelthom  (13,648')  (see  below)  may  be  ascended  by  moderately 
experienced  mountaineers  in  3--4  hrs.  The  route  ascends  the  snowy  slopes 
towards  the  £.  and  traverses  an  extensive  plateau  of  snow  at  the  S.  base 
of  the  Little  Matterhorn,  whence  the  Aventina  Glacier  descends,  and  finally 
leads  by  one  of  the  two  ridges  visible  from  Zermatt  (a  steady  head  in- 
dispensable) to  the  summit.  The  view  is  very  imposing ,  but  is  partially 
intercepted  towards  the  £.  by  the  loftier  peaks  of  Monte  Rosa;  towards  the 
V.  and  W.,  it  is  very  striking.    Descent  2  hrs.  (guide  25  fr.  and  fee). 

The  *Oima  di  Jazi  (12,527'),  which  rises  to  the  N.  of  the  Old  Weissthor 
(comp.  p.  2u2),  may  be  ascended  in  5 — 6  hrs.,  and  qu  the  whole  repays 
the  latigue  better  than  most  of  the  others  (guide  12  fr. ;  one  suffices  even 
for  several  persons).  View  similar  to  that  from  Monte  Rosa.  vThe  route  from 
the  Rifi'el  at  first  follows  the  path  to  the  Corner  Grat  for  >|2  hr.,  then  turns 
to  the  r.  and  skirts  a  [somewhat  steep  slope'as  far  as  the  (IIJ4  hr.)  Gorner 
Glacier,  which  is  reached  at  the  point  termed  the  Oadmen  (comp.  map,  p. 
268).  Then  a  gradual  ascent  of  1  hr.  on  the  ice  to  the  Stockknubel  (9857'), 
a  resting  place  at  the  rocky  base  of  the  Stockhom,  and  thence  to  the  sum- 
mit in  2>|4  hrs.  more.  The  only  fatiguing  parts  are  the  first  i|2  hr.  and 
the  last  1/4  hr.  Descent  in  3 — 4  hrs.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  approach 
the  brink  of  the  summit  on  the  S.  (Macugnaga)  side ;  for  should  the  over- 
hanging masses  of  snow  give  way,  the  traveller  would  be  precipitated  to 
a  depth  of  3 — 4000'.  Those  whose  enei^y  is  unexhausted  should  not  omit 
to  proceed  to  the  summit  of  the  *Neto  Weissthor  Pass  (11,851'),  whence  the 
view  of  Macugnaga  below ,  apparently  only  a  stone's  throw  distant ,  is 
very  imposing.  An  idea  may  at  the  same  time  be  formed  of  the  diffi- 
culties of  the  descent  in  that  direction.  Descent  to  Zermatt  across  the 
Findelen  Olacier  not  recommended. 

The  Kothhorn  (11,214')  is  ascended  with  greater  ease  from  Zermatt 
(see  p.  274)  than  from  the  Riffel.  —  The  Kiffalhom  (p.  272)  can  only  be 
scaled  by  active  climbers,    and   does  not  repay  the  trouble. 

Konte  Rosa,  Highest^  or  Dufour- Spitze  (15,217'),  comp.  p.  262.  Guide 
40  (two  necessary),  porter  25  fr.  None  of  the  higher  mountains  has  recently 
been  ascended  so  frequently,  even  by  ladies,  as  Monte  Rosa.  The  first 
ascent  was  accontplished  by  a  Mr.  Smyth  in  1855,  accompanied  by  Job. 
zum  Taugwald.  Although  usually  described  as  easy,  unpractised  moun- 
taineers must  bear  in  mind  that  the  expedition  is  attended  with  considerable 
fatigue,  and  that  a  perfectly  steady  head  is  indispensable.  After  a 
snow-storm  of  two  days,  on  I3th  Sept.  1863,  the  Editor  enjoyed  the  rare 
good  fortune  of  a  perfectly  unclouded  prospect  from  the  summit.  Indepen- 
dently of  the  view,  however,  the  expedition  is  highly  interesting.  At  the 
spectator's  feet  lie  the  vast  plains  of  Lombardy  \  the  view  of  the  Macugnaga 
Glacier,  Macugnaga,  and  the  Italian  lakes  is  especially  striking;  the  Ber- 
nina,  Ortler,  the  entire  range  of  the  Alps  of  Valais  and  Bern,  and  the 
majestic  Mont  Blanc  are  also  visible.  —  The  route  (ascent  and  descent 
12  — 14  hrs.)  descends  by  the  Gorner  Grat,  traverses  the  Gorner  and 
Monte  Rosa  glaciers  to  Auf  den  Flatten  (2  hrs.),  then  ascends  on  the  snow 
to  Auf  dem  Felsen  (1  hr.),  where  breakfast  is  usually  taken.  Aftet  a  walk 
of  5*|4  hrs.  over  precipitous  snow-fields,  the  Untere  Battel  is  reached,  and 
in  2U  min.  more  ascended.  Here  a  second  halt  is  made.  Thus  far  the  ascent 
is  laborious,  but  unattended  with  danger;  the  same  cannot  be  said  of  the 
remainder  (li|2  hr.)  of  the  route,  which  ascends  on  the  brink  of  a  precipice 
several  thousand  feet  in  depth  by  means  of  steps  hewn  in  the  ice.  The 
last  portion  involves  a  fatiguing  scramble  over  the  rocks. 

Besides  the  Dufour  peak,  the  following  also  belong  to  the  Monte  Rosa 
mass :  Hord-End  or  Oomerhom  (15,132%  Zumstein- Spitze  (15,006'),  Signal- 
Kvppe  (14,»64'))  and  Parrot- Spitze  (14,577')  (comp.  p.  262). 

Badkxsb,  Switserland.    6th  Edition.  18 


274     Route  64.  ZERMATT. 

Tour  of  Monte  Rosa^  3  good  days"  walk:  from  the  summit  of 
the  Matterjoch  (Theodule  Pass)  over  the  Col  des  Cimes  Blanches  (SST^) 
into  the  Challant  VcUley  to  Ayas  (5685'),  thence  over  the  Belta-Furca 
(8638')  to  Gresioney  in  the  Lys  Valley ,  over  the  Col  di  Val  Dobbia  (8359') 
to  the  Sesia  Valley ,  and  thence  over  the  Col  del  Turlo  (9088')  to  Ma- 
cugnaga^  see  B.  95. 

Paasea.  To  Le  Breuil  in  the  Val  Tournanche,  and  to  Ayas  in  the  Ayas 
or  Challant  Valley  over  the  Matterjoch  or  Thiodule  Pass  (11,899'),  guide 
15  fr.  (see  B.  63  and  p.  268).  Another  route  to  Ayas  is  hy  the  Sehtoarzthor^ 
a  pass  between  the  Zwillinge  (Jumeaux)  and  Breithom,  difficult  and  not 
without  danger.  A  route  of  similar  character  leads  to  Gressoney  in  the 
Val  de  Lys,  by  the  Lys-Joch^  or  Silber-Pass  (14,252'),  between  the  Lyskamm 
and  Parrot  peak.  From  the  Biffel  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  6—7  hrs., 
to  the  end  of  the  glacier  lijz,  Chalet  de  Lys  23|4,  and  Gressoney  2i|s,  alto- 
gether an  expedition  of  12 — 14  hrs.,  7 — 8  of  which  are  on  ice  and  snow,  and 
steep  at  places.  The  two  Zwillings  or  Jumeaux  passes ,  viz.  the  Verra 
or  Zwillings  Pass  between  the  Castor  and  Pollux,  and  the  Felikjoch  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  Castor  (each  about  13,0(X)')  are  extremely  difficult  and  should 
be  attempted  by  none  but  the  most  experienced  mountaineers  (from  Zer- 
matt  to  Gressoney  St.  Jean  15 — 16  hrs.). 

To  Macugnaga  in  the  Val  Anzasca  by  the  Neae  Weissthor  (11,851') ; 
guide  25  fr.  The  first  part  of  this  route  as  far  as  the  Weissthor  (6  hrs. 
incl.  the  Cima  di  Jazi,  a  digression  to  the  summit  of  which  occupies  *|2hr. ; 
see  above)  is  one  of  the  easiest  and  most  beautiful  of  Alpine  glacier  and 
snow  excursions.  Beyond  the  pass  a  farther  ascent  is  made  over  the  rugged 
rocks  of  the  Cima  di  Roffel;  then  a  giddy  descent,  passing  along  the  brink 
of  perpendicular  cliflfs  and  traversing  precipitous  snow-fields  (comp.  p.  263). 
This  difficult  part  of  the  expedition  is  accomplished  in  1^2 — 2  hrs.,  and 
Macugnaga  (p.  262)  is  reached  in  3  hrs.  more  (5  from  the  culminating 
point,  in  all  10—12  hrs.).  —  From  the  New  Weissthor  to  the  Mattmark 
Alp,  see  p.  264.  —  The  ascent  from  the  Biffel  to  the  Adler  Pass  (p.  264) 
by  the  Findelen  Glacier  is  objectionable. 

Excursions  from  Zermatt  (to the Riffel  Hotel  and Gorner 
Grat,  and  expeditions  from  the  former,  see  above): 

To  the  ofishoots  of  the  Findelen  and  Gomer  Glaciers,  an  excursion  of 
>|2  day  5  guide  (3  fr.)  unnecessary.  The  route  to  the  former  is  by  the  Biffel 
path  (p.  270)  as  far  as  the  church  of  Winkelmatten,  where  it  diverges  to 
the  1.  In  iJ2  hr.  the  Eggenalp  is  reached,  where  the  path  divides ;  both 
paths  lead  past  the  Stelli-See  to  the  Fluh  Alp  (8569') ,  whence  the  glacier 
may  be  surveyed.  [This  is  also  the  route  to  the  Lower  (10,190')  and  Upper 
(11,214')  Rothhorn,  which  may  be  easily  ascended  after  the  glacier  has 
been  inspected  (3--4  hrs.  from  Zermatt;  guide  6  fr.).]  —  Travellers  are 
particularly  cautioned  not  to  venture  on  the  Findelen  Glacier  without  a 
guide.  Then  return  to  Winkelmatten  and  the  1.  side  of  the  Visp.  In  ^ji  hr. 
the  brook  issuing  from  the  Z'Mutt  Glacier  is  crossed,  l^ear  the  Gomer 
Glacier  a  wooden  bridge  crosses  the  Visp  as  it  issues  from  the  ice.  Caution 
must  be  used  in  approaching  the  glacier,  as  masses  of  ice  frequently  be- 
come detached. 

To  the  Schwarz-Sae  (8392')  and  H6nili  (9492'),  guide  6  fr. ;  the  former 
may  be  visited  on  horseback.  This  is  one  of  the  commonest  and  least 
difficult  of  the  longer  excursions  from  Zermatt.  To  the  Schwarz-See  2^t — 
3  hrs. ;  thence  to  the  Hdmli  a  steep  ascent  of  IIJ4  hr.  The  stupendous 
proportions  of  the  Matterhom  (comp.  p.  271)  are  here  apparent.  In  returning, 
the  traveller  should  visit  the  Z'Mutt  Glacier  with  its  huge  moraines. 

The  Mettelhom  (11,188')  (ascent  5,  descent  3  hrs.),  which  rises  to  the 
N.  of  Zermatt,  is  a  fine  point  of  view,  especially  for  surveying  the  Mischabel, 
but  inferior  to  the  Gomer  Grat,  being  farther  distant  from  the  stupendous 
■  Gorner  Glacier.    Ascent  laborious  and  hardly  suitable  for  ladies. 

Paasea.  To  Zinal  in  the  Val  d'Anniviers  by  the  Triftjoch  or  Col  de 
Zinal  (11,614')  difficult,  guide  30  fr.,  see  p.  248;  by  the  Col  Durand  or  Col 
de  la  Dent  Blanche  (11,398')  less  difficult,  but  longer,  guido  30  fr.  —  To 


APPENZELL.  65.  Route.     275 

Evolena  in  the  Val  d'H^rens  by  the  Col  cTH^rens  (11,417'),  leRS  laborioud 
from  this  side  than  from  Evolena,  gnide  90  fr.,  see  p.  245.  To  Chatillon  in 
the  Aosta  Valley  by  the  Matterjoch  or  Thiodule  Pass  (10,899')  easy,  and  in 
fine  weather  practicable  for  ladies,  guide  20  fr.  *,  to  Val  Toumanche  only 
15  fr. ,  see  p.  268.  The  Schwarzthor^  Lys  Pass^  Weissthor .,  see  Riffel  ex- 
cursions. Three  glacier-  passes  lead  into  the  Saas  Valley :  Adler  Pass 
(12,461'),  difficult,  Allalin  Pass  (11,712'),  and  Alpkubel  Jock  (12,474'),  the 
last  the  finest  and  least  difficult ;  for  each  of  these,  guide  25  fr. 


65.     The  Canton  of  Appenzell. 

Heiden,  Gfds,  Weissbad,  Wildkirohli,  Holier  Kasten,  Sentis. 

Excursion  of  three  days,  of  great  interest,  especially  for  persons  travel- 
ling in  Switzerland  for  the  first  time:  1st.  From  Rorschach  to  Heiden 
2*|2  hrs.  \  over  the  Kaien  to  Trogen  2^(2  hrs.  •,  over  the  Gdbris  to  Gats 
2  hrs.,  in  all  7  hrs.  —  2nd.  From  Gais  to  Appemell  1  hr. ,  Weissbad 
SJ4  hr.,  Wildkirchli  and  Ebenalp  2  hrs.,  back  to  Weissbad  1>|2  hr.,  Appen- 
zell *|4  hr.,  in  all  6  hrs.  —  3rd.  From  Appenzell  by  Gais  to  Alistdtten  in 
the  Valley  of  the  Rhine  3  hrs.,  or  by  Teufen  to  St.  Gallen  4  hrs.  —  From  St. 
Gallen  to  Heiden  diligence  twice  daily  in  Q^\^  hrs.,  thence  to  Rheineck  see 
p.  277;  to  Trogen  twice  daily  in  T^fa  hr. ;  to  Gais  in  15(4,  to  Appenzell 
in  2if2  hrs.  From  Teufen  to  Trogen ,  Heiden ,  and  Rheineck  twice  daily 
in  2«(4  hrs.  —  Carrioffe  from  St.  Gallen  to  Trogen  6  fr.  (3-^  pers.  10  fr.), 
to  Appenzell  9—16 ,  Weissbad  10— 16»|2  fr. ;  half-fare  more  if  required  for 
the  return.  One-horse  carr.  from  Rorschach  to  Heiden  and  back  12  fr. 

The  Oanton  of  Appensell ,  lying  off  the  beaten  track  of  tourists,  was 
formerly  little  visited,  but  since  the  extension  of  the  Wurtemberg  and  Ba- 
varian railway  to  the  Lake  of  Constance,  great  numbers  of  travellers  enter 
Switzerland  in  this  direction.  In  grandeur  of  scenery  the  canton  of  Appen- 
zell will  not  bear  comparison  with  many  other  parts  of  Switzerland,  but  it 
includes  within  a  small  space  most  of  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the 
country.  It  boasts  of  Switzerland's  largest  lake ,  of  an  almost  southern 
vegetation,  oi  great  industrial  prosperity,  of  the  richest  pastures  and  finest 
cattle,  and  even  of  lofty  snow-peaks  and  glaciers  (on  the  Sentis).  The  most 
beautiful  points  are  Heiden^  St.  Antonyy  Wildkirchli^  the  Hohe  Kasten^  and 
the  Sentis. 

The  Canton  of  Appenzell,  which  is  entirely  surrounded  by  that  of  St. 
Gallen,  was  divided  after  the  religious  wars  of  1597  into  two  half-cantons, 
Auaur-Bhoden  and  Inner-Rhoden,  and  to  this  day  party-feelings  on  religious 
subjects  are  very  strong.  Inner-Rlioden  ^  which  consists  of  pasture-land 
and  is  63  sq.  M.  in  extent,  is  exclusively  Rom.  Cath.,  and  until  1848  per- 
mitted no  Protestants  to  settle  within  its  limits ;  even  Rom.  Catholics  who 
were  not  natives  of  the  Canton  were  strictly  excluded.  This  restriction  was 
nominally  rescinded  by  a  decree  of  the  Confederation  in  1848,  but  little 
change  has  practically  taken  place.  According  to  the  last  census ,  11,914 
inhab.  are  Rom.  Catholics ,  while  190  only  are  Protestants.  Ausser- 
i2Aod«n  (90  sq.  M.,  48,734  inhab.,  2361  Rom.  Cath.)  belongs  to  the  Reformed 
Church ;  one-fourth  of  its  population  is  engaged  in  the  cotton  and  silk  manu- 
facture, chiefiy  for  firms  at  St.  Gallen.  l^o  government  official  receives  an 
income  exceeding  200  fr.  perannum.  The  popular  assembly  ('Landsgemeinde') 
is  held  on  the  last  Sunday  in  April,  in  even  years  at  Trogen,  in  uneven  at 
Hundwyl;  every  male  inhabitant  of  Appenzell  above  the  age  of  18  is  re- 
quired to  be  present  under  a  penalty  of  10  fr. ;  about  12,(XX)  persons  assemble 
on  the  occasion. 

The  contrast  between  these  two  divisions  of  the  canton  in  habits, 
manners,  and  costume  is  very  remarkable.  Ausser-Rhoden  is  characterised 
by  the  enterprising  and  prosperous  condition  of  its  inhabitants,  many  of 
whom  are  even  affluent.  Almost  every  house  has  its  loom ,  the  products 
of  which  often  exhibit  extraordinary  taste  and  skill ,  and  were  objects  of 
sdmiration  at  the  London  itnd  Paris  Industrial  Exhibitions.  The  rearing  of 

18* 


276     RouU  65.  HEIDEN.  The  Canton 

cattle  is  here  quite  a  subordinate  occupation.  The  inhabitants  of  Inner- 
Rhoden  generally  occupy  scattered  cottages  and  huts  *,  they  are ,  according 
to  Merian  (1650),  ^a  rough,  hardy,  homely,  and  pious  folk";  their  costume 
is  picturesque  and  primitive.  In  this  canton  the  rearing  of  cattle  and  the 
manufacture  of  cheese  are  the  chief  pursuits  of  the  natives.  The  richest 
pastures  are  near  Appenzell.  The  female  portion  of  the  population  ia 
chiefly  employed  in  embroidery. 

The  Appenzellers  are  partial  to  athletic  exercises,  and  are  skilful  riflemen  \ 
and  a  portion  of  Sundays  and  festivals  is  set  apart  for  these  sports.  The 
singular  chant  of  the  cow-herds  has  a  peculiar  and  not  unpleasing  effect  \ 
their  jargon  is,  however,  almost  unintelligible  even  to  those  familiar  with 
the  usual  Uerman  dialect  of  Switzerland. 

Whey-cure  Eatabliahments  in  the  Canton  of  Appenzell :  Oau^  Weissbady 
Heiden^  Oonten,  Umdseh^  etc.  The  goats^  whey  is  prepared  on  the  pastures  of 
the  Sentis ;  the  milk  is  heated,  and  the  whey  separated  from  it  by  the  ad- 
dition of  rennet.  The  whey  C  Schotten'' )  thus  prepared  is  of  a  yellowish-green 
colour,  semi-transparent,  entirely  free  from  caseine,  but  rich  in  saccharine 
matter.  The  process  takes  place  at  night.  Early  in  the  morning  the  goat- 
herds carry  the  hot  whey  on  their  backs  to  the  different  establishments  be- 
low. The  whey-manufacturers  possess  about  5C0  goats  on  the  Sentis,  and 
even  purchase  goats'  milk  from  other  districts,  to  supply  the  hotel-keepers. 
After  the  separation  of  the  whey,  the  cheese  is  manufactured  in  the  ordi- 
nary manner  (see  Introd.  XIII:  Alpine  farming). 

The  excursion  mentioned  at  p.  275  begins  with  Bortchach 
(1312',  p.  38).  Omnibus  daily  from  Rorschach  to  Helden  in 
2  hrs. ,  fare  3  fr.  The  road  diverges  from  the  'Rheinstrasse^ 
in  the  town,  and  ascends  gradually  to  the  (4^2  ^0  ^Wien- 
aohter-Eok  (2342')  {Landegg,  an  inn  near  the  summit),  com- 
manding a  view  of  the  lake  all  the  way,  but  most  extensive 
from  the  eminence  a  little  to  the  1.  of  the  road.  The  road 
here  turns ,  ascending  at  a  right  angle  past  the  Wienachter 
Quarries.  These  have  been  worked  for  centuries ,  and  yield  re- 
gularly stratified  slabs  of  sandstone ,  which  are  exported  even  as 
far  as  Holland.  The  road  now  leads  over  the  hills,  passing  Ka- 
thoUaeh  and  Reformirt  Orub  (2638'),  to  (3  M.)  Heiden,  Those 
who  wish  to  visit  the  Kaien  (see  below),  need  not  go  so  far  as 
Heiden ,  but  turn  to  Hie  r.  beyond  the  church  of  Reformirt-Grub, 
and  proceed  straight  towards  the  Kaien ,  the  path  to  which  can 
hardly  be  mistaken. 

Heiden  (2645')  (*Fbeihop,  R.  li/a,  per  week  7  to  12  fr. ,  B.  1, 
D.  2  fr.,  whey  80  c.  per  day,  whey-bath  5—6  fr.  \  *LdW£,  smaller^  opposite 
to  it,  *ScHWRiz£RHOF,  post  and  telegr.  office ;  Kronk  \  Linos  \  Hotel  £ug- 
8TBK,  K.  6 — 10  fr.  per  week  \  Zum  Paradibs  \  Zur  frohkn  Aussicht,  well 
spoken  of),  a  handsome  village  with  2944  inhab.  (191  Rom.  Gath.), 
rebuilt  since  a  fire  in  1838,  and  situated  in  the  midst  of  fresh 
and  pleasant  meadows ,  is  now  much  frequented  for  the  whey- 
cure.  Its  lofty  and  healthy  situation  and  the  superiority  of  its 
establishments  render  it  a  pleasant  resort  for  invalids.  Mineral 
water  may  also  be  procured.  The  gallery  on  the  summit  of  the 
tower  of  the  new  church  contains  a  good  telescope,  and  affords 
a  fine  panoramic  view,  especially  over  the  Lake  of  Constance.  A 
^Kurhalle'  has  recently  been  erected.  —  Diligence  to  St.  QaUen 
twice  daily  by  Qruh  (see  above),    Eggerariedj   and  through  the 


of  AppenzeU.  TROGEN.  65.  Route.     277 

Martmstobel  (p.  39)  in  2  hrs. ;  to  Rheineck  (p.  281)  twice  daily 
in  40  min.  by  Wolfhalden  y  with  the  beautifully  situated  whey- 
cure  estab.  of  FrUdberg.  The  latter  road  is  better  and  more  in- 
teresting than  that  by  Grub,  as  it  skirts  the  brow  of  the  hills, 
and  commands  a  line  view  the  whole  way. 

The  *OhApel  of  St.  Antony  (3635'),  4i(s  H.  to  the  S.  of  Heiden  on  the 
road  to  (7i|2  M.)  Altstdtten^  commands  a  famous  prospect  of  the  Valley  of 
the  Rhine  (preferable  to  the  view  from  the  Kaien),  Bregenz,  Lindau,  part 
of  the  Lake  of  Constance,  and  the  Vorarlberg  and  Tyrolese  mountains. 

The  Kaien^  1M<  hr.  S.E.  of  Heiden,  is  also  frequently  ascended  ^  guide 
(1»J2  fr.)  desirable.  The  Trogen  road  is  at  first  followed  ^  after  1»|4  M.  the 
hill  is  ascended  to  the  r.  in  the  direction  of  some  houses ,  where  the  tra- 
veller may  engage  the  services  of  a  boy ;  10  min. ,  the  path  enters  fir- 
w^ood ,  here  somewhat  steep ,  then  crosses  an  open  meadow  with  a  few 
chalets ,  and  ascends  the  small  peak  of  the  (1(2  hr.)  *Eaien  (3668').  The 
view  embraces  a  great  part  of  the  Lake  of  Constance  and  the  Canton  of 
Thurgau,  the  embouchures  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Bregenzer  Ach,  the  Vor- 
arlberg and  Liechtenstein  mountains,  with  the  white  chain  of  the  Scesaplana 
rising  above  them  to  the  S.E.  It  also  affords  a  characteristic  glimpse  of  the 
AppenzeU  district ;  the  Kamor  and  Hohe  Kasten,  the  five  peaks  of  the 
Furgglen-First  and  Kanzel,  the  double-peaked  Altmann,  the  snow-fields  of 
the  Sentis,  and  the  Todi  somewhat  in  the  background ;  in  the  foreground 
are  woods  and  meadows  and  the  handsome  villages  of  Wald,  Trogen, 
and  Speicher ;  to  the  1.  above  Trogen  rises  the  Gabris  (see  below) ;  to  the 
r.  near  Speicher ,  Voglisegg  (p.  280) ;  to  the  1.  above  Speicher ,  in  the  dis- 
tance, the  summits  of  Pilatus  and  the  Rigi. 

The  Kaien  is  1>|2  hr.  from  Speicher,  and2>|2hrs.  from  St.  Gall.  Trogen 
seems  almost  within  a  stone's  throw,  though  in  reality  3  M.  distant.  'The 
path  descends  to  the  r.  by  Rehtobel  ^  beyond  which  the  road  to  Trogen  is 
visible  ip  the  gorge  far  below.  ISfear  the  bridge  in  the  valley  below,  is  a 
rustic  inn  ^Am  Goldach". 

TheGttbris  (see  below)  may  be  ascended  from  Heiden  direct  (avoiding  the 
Kaien)  :  to  St.  Antonyms  Chapel  (see  above)  1  hr.  ^  then  along  the  hill  (Trogen 
lying  below  in  the  valley  to  the  r.),  with  a  charming  survey  of  the  Rhine 
valley  and  the  Sentis,  to  the  Ruppen  (Inn,  comp.  p.  282),  and  thence  to 
the  summit  of  the  Gabris,  a  very  attractive  walk  of  3>J2  hrs. 

Trogen  (29630  (Schafle,  rustic;  Krone),  with  2912  inhab. 
(85  Rom.  Cath.),  the  seat  of  government  of  the  Canton  of  Appen- 
zeU Ausser-Rhoden,  contains  nothing  worthy  of  note.    Road  over 

the  Ruppen  to  (71/2  M.)  Altstdtteny  see  p.  282. 

From  8t.  O  all  en  to  Trogen  diligence  twice  daily  in  I'ja  hr.  — 
The  road  leads  from  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  past  the  nunnery  of  Notkers- 
eck  and  the  inn  of  Kurzeck  (comp.  p.  280),  to  the  (3  M.)  Vdglisegg  (*Inn) 
(p.  280),  and  thence  by  (»|4  M.)  Speieher  (Lowe ;  Krone)  to  (1»(4  M.)  Trogen. 

From  the  church  at  Trogen  a  road  leads   by  Biihler  (p.  279) 

to  Gais.     The  footpath  thither  over   the  *0&bri8   is   shorter   and 

far  more  attractive. 

The  traveller  coming  from  the  Kaien  follows  the  Trogen  and  Biihler 
road  as  far  as  the  top  (3487')  of  the  hill  {i^\i  hr.)^  a  flngei-post  (whence  a 
view  of  the  Sentis)  here  indicates  the  path  to  the  1.  to  Gais  over  the 
Gabris.  Those  who  come  from  Voglisegg  should  not  proceed  as  far  as 
Trogen,  but  quit  the  high  road  between  Speicher  and  Trogen  by  a  flight 
of  steps  to  the  r.  (I»f2  M.  from  Voglisegg),  diverging  beyond  a  gorge  which 
is  skirted  by  the  road  in  a  wide  curve.  A  small  valley  is  left  immedia- 
tely on  the  r. ,  and  the  path  ascends  gradually  across  meadows.  After 
i|j  hr.  this  path  reaches  the  above-mentioned  road,  at  a  few  hundred 
paces  from  the  finger-post.  About  5  min.  beyond  the  latter  an  inn  is 
reached  \  farther  on ,  the  road  turns  to  the  r.  and  ascends  into  a  wood. 
Before  the  road  quits  the  wood ,  at  the  point  where  a  row  of  old  pine- 


278     RouU  66.  WEISSBAB.  The  Canton 

treea  flanks  the  road ,  a  footpath  between  two  of  these  ascends,  chiefly 
through  wood,  to  the  summit.  The  point  first  attained  is  the  JSH^nalMhe 
(4101'),  the  view  from  which  is  partly  intercepted  by  wood.  A  few  min. 
farther  is  an  ^Inn,  whence  a  charming  prospect  is  enjoyed  (reached  from 
Voglisegg  in  l>|«hr.).  To  Gais,  which  lies  at  the  spectator's  feet,  a  some- 
what steep  descent  of  ^{a  hr.  Those  proceeding  in  the  reverse  direction 
will  find  finger-posts  at  doubtful  points. 

OaiB  (3064')  (*0ch8  and  ^Krone,  often  crowded  during  the 
season,  R.  i^lr—'^y  B.  1,  D.  2^/4  fr.,  A.  1/2  f'-,  whey  80  c.  per 
day;  AdUfy  Hirsch,  Rothbach,  etc.,  unpretending.  Telegraph  Of- 
fice at  the  post-office.  Physician  Dr.  Heim),  with  2552  inhab. 
(130  Kom.  Cath.),  situated  in  the  midst  of  green  meadows  al- 
most destitute  of  trees,  is  the  oldest  and  most  famous  of  the 
Appenzell  whey-cure  villages ,    having   been   frequented  for   this 

purpose  since  1749.  —  Diligence  to  St.  Gallen,  see  p.  279. 

The  High-road  from  Gais  to  Altstditen  (6  M. ,  diligence  once 
daily  in  1  hr.,  from  Altstatten  to  Gais  in  ISJ4  hr.),  is  level  for  the  first 
lijs  M.,  and  then  descends  uninterruptedly  from  the  point  where  it  diver- 
ges from  the  old  and  winds  round  the  mountain.  The  latter  is  the  shor- 
ter for  pedestrians ,  and  far  preferable  on  account  of  the  view  ^  it  leads 
to  the  1.  over  the  (i|4  hr.)  *Stos«  (3120'),  a  chapel  (and  inn)  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  pass,  commanding  a  celebrated  view  of  the  Rhine  Valley ,  the 
Vorarlberg,  and  the  Grisons.  Here,  on  17th  June,  1406,  4(X)  men  of  Ap- 
penzell under  Rudolf  von  Werdenberg  signally  defeated  3000  troops  of 
the  Archduke  Frederick  and  the  Abbot  of  St.  Gallen.  The  old  road  re- 
joins the  new  immediately  below  the  Stoss.     Altstatten,  see  p.  281. 

The  high-road  from  Gais  to  Appenzell  (3  M.)  traverses  green 
meadows  destitute  of  trees.  Appeiizell  (2562')  (*Hechtj  with 
pension ;  Lowe) ,  another  whey-cure  resort,  the  capital  of  the 
Canton  of  Inner-Rhoden ,  on  the  Sitter^  is  a  large  village  con- 
sibting  chiefly  of  old  wooden  houses,  with  3691  inhab.  (46  Prot.). 
It  contains  two  monasteries,  and  was  formerly  the  country- 
residence  of  the  Abbots  of  St.  Gallen,  Appenzell  being  a  corrup- 
tion of  'Abbatis  Cello: .  The  Church,  rebuilt  in  1824—26, 
contains  sketches  of  banners  captured  by  the  Appenzellers  in  the 
15th  cent.  The  Chamel-houae  resembles  that  described  at  p.  48. 
(Diligence  to  St.  Gallen,  see  p.  279.)  Excursion  to  the  Meglisalp 
(and  back  in  8  hrs.)  see  p.  280. 

Fro  m  App  en  z  el  I  to  He  risau  diligence  twice  daily  in  2M2  hrs.  \ 
comp.  p.  279.  The  road  leads  by  (2M2  M.)  Gonten  (2966')  (Bar)  (1  M.  to 
the  E.  of  which  is  the  well  organised  Gontenbad)  to  (S^ji  M.)  Umdsch 
(Krone),  and  thence  along  the  1.  bank  of  the  Umdsch  to  (3  M.)  Waldstadt 
and  (2»|4  M.)  Herisau  (p.  37). 

Visitors  usually  make  no  stay  at  Appenzell,  but  pass  through 

on  their  way  to  (21/4  M.  to  the  S.E.)  WeisBbad  (2690'), 
another  whey-cure  estab.  (R.  IY2  to  6,  B.  1 ,  D.  2  fr.  20  c, 
S.  1^2  ^^0)  pleasantly  situated  at  the  N.  base  of  the  Appenzell 
hills.  The  brothers  Jacob,  Joseph,  and  Johann  Thbrig  and  Ruber 
are  recommended  as  guides:  to  Wildkirchli  (see  below)  3,  the 
Sentis  (p.  280)  6 ,  over  the  Hohenkasten  to  the-  Rheinth&l 
(see  below)  6  fr. 

From  Weissbad  to  the  Valley  of  the  Rhine.  The  direct  route 
by  the  Hohe  Kasten  (5  hrs.)  leads  towards  the  S.E.  through  (>|a  hr.)  BriH- 
lisau  (3061')  (Krone,  rustic)  ;  by  the  church  follow  the  paved  path,  past  the 


of  AppenxeU.  TEUFEN.  65.  RouU.     279 

first  house,  as  far  as  a  bam,  whence  the  meadows  are  ascended  (in  the 
direction  of  the  inn  which  lies  conspicuously  at  the  foot  of  the  Kamor) 
as  far  as  the  last  group  of  houses,  1(2  hr.  ^  then  straight  on  (not  by  the 
beaten  path)  through  the  enclosure  on  the  r.  as  far  as  the  inn,  (ijs  hr., 
bridle-path  thus  far),  which  affords  tolerable  quarters,  and  contains  a  small 
collection  of  fossils.  From  the  inn  a  steep  ascent  of  1  hr.  by  a  good  path, 
to  the  summit  of  the  Hohe  Xaaten  (5902')  (Inn)^  which,  together  with  the 
neighbouring  0\*  hr.  N.)  Kamor  (5879'),  slopes  precipitously  towards  the 
Rhine  Valley.  Interesting  view  of  the  Sentis  group,  with  its  three  spurs 
on  the  K.E. ,  which  is  nowhere  surveyed  to  so  great  advantage  \  in  the 
other  direction  towards  the  Rhine  Valley,  visible  as  far  as  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance, and  towards  the  Alps  of  the  Vorarlberg  and  Orisons.  The  £.  part 
of  the  lake  is  also  visible..  Then  a  descent  to  (2i|2  hrs.)  Rilthi  (railway 
station ,  p.  282)  in  the  Rhine  Valley.  The  traveller  had  better  proceed 
at  first  to  the  I.  by  the  foot  of  the  Kamor,  in  order  to  reach  the  path 
descending  from  the  chalets  of  the  Kamor,  which  soon  become  visible. 
The  descent  is  /rom  chalet  to  chalet,  the  path  disappearing  altogether  at 
places.  In^  the  wood  below  the  last  chalets ,  select  the  path  descending 
to  the  r. 

The  favourite  excursion  from  Weissbad  is  (S.)  to  the  "Wild- 
kirohli  (4918')  (1^4  hr.,  path  intricate,  guide  3  fr.),  a  hermi- 
tage founded  in  1656 ,  but  now  closed.  It  is  dedicated  to  St. 
Michael ,  and  consists  of  a  grotto  (18'  long  and  15'  wide)  in  a 
perpendicular  rock  220'  high,  to  which  a  path  has  been  made. 
At  the  foot  of  this  precipice  is  the  *Sonne^  or  'im  Escher'  inn. 
On  the  patron-saint's  day  (at  the  beginning  of  July)  and  on  St. 
Michael's  Day  (29th  Sept.)  solemn  services  are  celebrated  here, 
and  the  grotto  and  the  Ebenalp  are  visited  by  a  large  concourse. 
The  view  over  the  Lake  of  Constance  towards  Swabia  and  Bavaria 
is  very' striking. 

A  stalactite  grotto,  150  paces  long,  closed  on  the  W.  side 
by  a  door ,  penetrates  the  limestone  rock  here.  Close  to  the 
entrance  there  is  a  good  rustic  inn ,  the  landlord  of  which  ac- 
companies visitors  with  a  torch,  and  opens  the  door,  through 
which  an  entirely  new  Alpine  view  is  disclosed.  A  narrow  path 
leads  from  this  to  the  (^4  hr.)  Ebenalp  (5249'),  a  pasture  at 
the  N.  end  of  the  Alpstein  chain,  rich  in  Alpine  plants,  and 
commanding  an  admirable  survey  of  the  Sentis,  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance, the  Kamor,  Altmann,  and  Churflrsten.  Those  who  wish 
to  avoid  this  narrow  path  may  at  the  point  where  in  descending, 
close  to  the  mountain,  the  path  to  the  1.  leads  to  the  Wildklrchli, 
take  an  easy  footpath  to  the  r. ,  which  leads  through  wood  to 
the  Ebenalp. 

The  Diligence  from  Appenzell  to  St.  Oalten  (twice  daily  in 
2^/4  hrs.,  returning  in  21/2  hrs.),  passes  through  (3  M.)  Gais 
(p.  278),  then  (skirting  the  Rothbachj  which  divides  Appenzell- 
Ausser-Rhoden  from  Appenzell-Inner-Rhoden)  (I1/2  M.)  Bfthler 
(2736'),  and  (21/4  M.)  Teufen  (2742')  (*Hecht;  *Lindef  ^Alpen- 
hofjj  two  thriving  manufacturing  villages,  the  latter  very  pictu- 
resquely situated ,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  entire  chain  of  the 
Sentis ;  thence  through  meadows  and  woods  to  (6  M.)  JSt.  GalLen 
(route  by   Vmdsch  and  Herisau,  see  p.  278). 


280     BouU  66.  8ENTIS. 

A  footpath  from  Appenzell  to  Teufen,  which  shortens  the  distance  but 
slightly,  crosses  the  Sitter  near  Mettlen,  and  descends  the  valley  of  the 
Sitter,  high  on  its  r.  bank,  passing  through  Steig^  Lanky  and  Haslen.  Thence 
at  first  towards  the  N.,  afterwards  N.E.  over  the  mountain,  passing  through 
several  woods,  and  descending  into  the  valley  of  the  EotM>ach.  It  then 
crosses  the  brook  and  ascends  to  Teu/en. 

The  footpath  from  Teufen  to  St.  Gallen  (81/2  M.)  diverges  from 
the  hi^h-ioad  near  the  'Hecht'  inn,  and  immediately  ascends  to 
(i^/2  M.)  the  Schdfles  Eck  (Inn);  it  then  descends  to  (1^2  M.) 
St.  Qeorgen,  where  It  joins  the  high-road  to  St.  Oallen.  About 
10  min.  W.  of  the  Schafle's  Eck  is  the  *FrdIich8egg  C^Inn), 
which  commands  an  admirable  view,  embracing  Teufen  in  the 
foreground,  the  green  Alpine  valley  sprinkled  with  dwellings, 
and  the  Appenzell  mountains,  beginning  with  the  Fahnern,  on  the 
1.,  the  Kamor,  the  Hohe  Hasten  about  the  middle  of 'the  chain,  the 
green  Ebenalp  below  the  snow,  more  to  the  r.  the  Altmann  and 
Sentis  with  its  snow-fields,  then  in  the  distance  the  Glarnisch 
and  Speer;  to  the  W.  the  railway  and  road  to  Wyl,  extended  like 
a  map  before  the  spectator,  and  to  the  N.  a  part  of  the  Lake  of 
Constance. 

Leaving  the  Schafle's  Eck ,  and  following  the  crest  of  the 
hill  towards  the  E.,  the  traveller  finally  ascends  an  eminence 
towards  a  solitary  pine  and  reaches  the  (IV2  ^^^O  *Vogliiegg 
(3156')  (Hotel  and  Pension  Voglisegg),  on  the  high  road  from 
St.  Gallen  to  Trogen.  The  prospect  embraces  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance and  the  beautiful  meadow-land  of  Speicher  and  Trogen, 
part  of  the  Yorarlberg  range,  and  several  of  the  Appenzell 
mountains.  The  Sentis  is  best  surveyed  from  a  spot  a  few 
paces  in  front  of  the  inn.  To  St.  Gallen  (p.  37)  a  descent  of 
3  M.;  to  Trogen  2  M. 

Nearer  St.  Gallen,  V2  ^^'  ^'om  the  Voglisegg,  from  which  it  is 
visible,  is  the  *Freiidenberg  (29039,  another  and  still  finer  point 
of  view,  also  possessing  a  good  inn.  In  the  foreground  lies  St. 
Gallen  with  its  populous  environs,  and  beyond  it  the  Lake  of 
Constance.     (By  the  carriage-road  to    St.  Gallen  21/4  M.,  by  the 

footpath  Y2  ^^0     Comp.  excursions  from  St.  Gallen,  p.  38. 

The  ascent  of  the  snow-clad  Sentis  (8216'),  the  highest  mountain  in 
Appenzell,  is  frequently  made  from  Weissbaid  (guide  6  fr.).  The  route 
traverses  the  Schwendi  (Inn),  and  skirts  the  precipices  of  the  Ologgeren 
to  the  (3  hrs.)  Meglisalp  (4856')  (refreshments  at  a  chalet,  high  charges). 
Then  in  3>|»— 4  hrs.  to  the  S.  peak  of  the  mountain,  the  Seniu  proper,  or 
Hohe  Mesmer.  About  6  min.  below  the  peak  is  a  chalet,  where  refresh- 
ments and  quarters  for  the  night  may  be  procured  (dear).  The  house  under- 
went some  improvement  in  1868.  A  cross  formerly  stood  on  the  stone  pyra- 
mid, erected  at  the  time  when  Napoleon  united  the  cantons  of  St.  Gall 
and  Appenzell  under  the  name  of  the  Canton  du  Sentis.  The  *view  extends 
over  X.E.  and  E.  Switzerland,  embracing  the  Lake  of  Constance,  Swabia 
and  Bavaria,  the  Tyrolese  mountains,  the  Grisons,  and  the  Alps  of  Glarus 
and  Bern.  The  N.  peak,  which  is  separated  from  the  S.  by  the  'Blaue 
Schnee",  is  named  the  Oyrenspitz^  or  Geierspitz  (7766'). 

From  the  Sentis  the  traveller  may  cross  the  Schafboden  to  (3,  ascent  6 — 6 
hrs.)  Wildhaus  in  the  Toggenburg  (p.  290).  The  usual  route  from  Weissbad 
to  Wildhaus  (6  hrs.)  leads  through  the  firiUitobel  to  the  SUmtis-See  (3970'), 


ALTSTATTEN.  66.  Route.     281 

Mcends  to  the  Fahlen-See  (4773'),  and  crosses  the  Krayalp  (5935')>  7i|«— 
8  hrs.,  not  sufficiently  interesting  to  repay  the  fatigue^  the  route  by  the 
Sentis  (not  much  longer)  is  therefore  preferable.  Experienced  mountaineers 
may  combine  a  visit  to  the  WUdkirchli  (p.  279)  with  the  ascent  of  the 
Sentis  (guide  necessary)  by  leaving  the  valley  of  the  Seealpsee  to  the  1. 
The  path  leads  at  the  base  of  the  Zdmler  and  SchdJIer  across  the  (1  hr.) 
AUen-Alp  and  the  (l^ls  hr.)  Zwitsel-Alp^  through  the  Othrli^  and  over  the 
Mutche^eU  (numerous  fossils)  \  hence  either  across  the  valley  to  the  Wagen- 
lUcke  and  then  by  the  path  which  ascends  from  Weissbad,  or  (1  hr.  shorter) 
across  the  'Blaue  Schnee''  (see  above)  past  the  base  of  the  Oyrenspitz,  and 
over  the  Flatten  direct  to  the  summit  (altogether  6 — 7  hrs.). 

66.     From  Eorschach  to  Coire. 

Comp.  MapSj  pp.  22^  27e. 

Railway  in  3»f2— 4if2  hrs. ;  fares  9  fr.  80,6  fr.  86,  4  fr.  90  c.  Comp. 
Introd.  X.  with  regard  to  excursion-tickets.  There  are  two  stations  at 
Rorschach,  the  chief  of  which  (with  ^restaurant)  is  on  the  quay  in  the 
town.  The  other  is  ^2  H.  to  the  E.,  where  carriages  are  sometimes 
changed.  The  first  morning-train  corresponds  at  Rorschach  with  the  first 
steamboat  from  Friedrichshafen  and  Lindau;  at  Coire  with  the  diligences 
for  the  Spliigen  and  the  Bernardino. 

The  Valley  of  the  Rhine,  formerly  termed  the  Upper  Bheingau, 
and  governed  down  to  1798  by  Swiss  bailiffs,  like  Ticino  (p. 
84),  Thurgau,  etc.,  presents  a  variety  of  grand  and  picturesque 
scenery.  The  train,  after  leaving  Rorschach,  skirts  the  lake  for 
a  short  distance.  Stat.  Staad.  Heiden  (p.  276)  is  seen  on  the 
hill  to  the  r. ;  in  thQ  plain  are  meadows,  fields  of  maize,  and 
numerous  orchards.  On  the  hill-side  rises  the  castle  of  War- 
tegg,  and  above  it  Wartenaee;  farther  on,  a  glimpse  is  obtained 
of  the  chateau  of  Weinburgj  the  property  of  the  prince  of  Hohen- 
zollern-Sigmaringen  (beautiful  park  open  to  visitors,  superb  view), 
situated  on  the  Buchberg^  the  vineyards  of  which  advance  into 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine ;  the  view  from  the  Steineme  Tisch  (stone 
table)  above  the  chateau  is  much  admired.  The  train  traverses 
part  of  the  fertile  delta  formed  by  the  deposits  of  the  Rhine. 
The  bed  of  the  river  is  subject  to  frequent  changes,  and  is 
navigable  for  small  rafts  only.  A  cutting  is  now  being  con- 
structed for  the  purpose  of  directing  its  course  to  Fuasach  on 
the  Lake  of  Constance. 

Stat.  Rheineck  (1312')  (Hecht;  Krone),  a  village  at  the  foot 
of  vineyards.  (Diligence  to  Heiden  twice  daily  in  II/2  ^^-y  2  fr.; 
see  p.  277.)  At  stat.  St.  Margarethen  (Schweizerbund,  at  the 
station)  a  branch-line  to  Bregenz  diverges  to  the  1.  (p.  354),  and 
an  iron  bridge  crosses  the  Rhine,  which  here  forms  the  boundary 
between  Switzerland  and  the  Austrian  Yorarlberg  (the  Meldegg^ 
p.  39,  is  ascended  hence  in  1  hr.).  The  plain  of  the  Rhine  is  stony, 
and  exposed  to  inundations.  The  railway  skirts  the  hill,  traverses 
orchards  and  fields  of  maize,  and  from  Heldaberg  to  Monstein 
passes  between  the  river  and  abrupt  rocks.  Stations  Au^  Heer- 
hrugg,  Rebstein. 

Alt^tattexi  (1420')  (^Drei  Konige;  moderate;    Krone;   Rabe\ 


282     RouU  ee.  SARGANS.  From  Borschach 

Zum  Splugen,  at  the  station),  a  town  with  7575  inhab.  (2797 
Prot.).  A  road  leads  hence  over  the  Ruppen  (3054  Q,  an  ascent 
of  6  M.,  then  to  Trogen  3  M. ,  and  to  St.  Gall  6  M.  more; 
another  road  by  the  Stoss  (3120')  and  Gais  to  Appenzell  (p. 
278),  9  M. ;  and  a  pleasant  footpath  in  3  hrs.  by  the  Chapel 
of  St.  Antony  and  Heiden  (p.  276)  to  Rorschach.  Near  Alt- 
statten  the  Sentis  is  seen  to  the  r.  through  a  gorge,  to  the  r.  of 
the  Fahnern;  in  the  distance  to  the  S.  rises  the  snow-clad 
Scesaplana,  and  beside  it  the  Falknis  (p.  283). 

Stat.  Oberried  (Sonne).  On  the  E.  slope  of  a  rocky  and 
wooded  eminence  to  the  r.,  stands  the  ruined  tower  of  the  castle 
of  Blatten.  The  high-road  passes  to  the  W.  of  the  castle  through 
the  defiQe  of  the  Hirschensprung  ('stag's  leap'),  above  which  tower 
the  Kamor  and  Hohe  Kasten  (p.  279). 

Stat.  Ruthi  (Zum  Bahnhof)  (path  over  the  Hohe  Kasten  to 
Weissbadj  see  p.  278).  The  lofty  wooded  rock,  rising  above  the 
little  town  of  Sennwald  (Post  or  Krone),  is  termed  the  Kanzel 
(pulpit).  Stat.  Saletz  (pleasant  walk  hence  by  Sax  and  the  Saxer 
Lucke  (5430'),  passing  the  Fahlen  and  Samtis  lakes,  in  6  hrs. 
to  Weissbad ,  p.  278);  then  stat.  Haag.  Above  stat.  Buck* 
(*Sonne ;  *  Hornli)  rises  the  conspicuous  castle  of  Werdenberg, 
once  the  seat  of  the  counts  of  that  name.  —  Railway  to  Feld- 
kirch,  see  p.  353. 

On  a  height,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhine,  lies  Vaduz, 
with  its  chateau,  the  capital  of  the  principality  of  Liechtenstein, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Drei  Sckwestem  ('three  sisters'),  a  mountain 
which  became  visible  at  Altstatten. 

Above  stat.  SeveLen  rises  the  old  pinnacled  chateau  of  Wartau, 
Near  stat.  Trubbach  the  rocks  of  the  SchoUherg  approach  so  near 
the  Rhine  that  it  has  been  necessary  to  blast  a  passage  for  the 
road  and  the  railway.  On  an  eminence  opposite,  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Rhine,  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Quttenberg, 
where  the  ascent  of  the  Luziensteig  begins. 

At  Sargans  {H6tel  Thoma,  R.  1—2,  D.  21/2  fr.)  the  Wesen 
(Glarus)  and  Ziirich  line  diverges  to  the  N.W.  (p.  47).  By  some 
trains  carriages  must  be  changed.  The  Rhine,  which  appears  formerly 
to  have  discharged  itself  into  the  Lake  of  Wallenstadt  to  the  W., 
has  worn  a  broad  passage  through  the  rocks,  and  takes  a  N.  di- 
rection. The  scenery  becomes  grander  and  more  picturesque ;  to 
the  N.W.  the  long  serrated  chain  of  the  Churfiraten  (p.  45)  be- 
comes visible,  to  theE.  the  grey  pyramid  of  the  Faifcni5 (see  below). 

BagatZy  see  p.  283.  Near  it  is  the  ruined  castle  of  Freu- 
denberg  (p.  285).  Opposite,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhine, 
on  the  bold  summit  of  the  St.  Luziehberg ,  or  Fldscherberg 
(3753'),  are  seen  some  of  the  buildings  connected  with  the  forti- 
fication of  the  pass  (see  below). 

Above   the   confluence  of  the    Tamina  the   train   crosses   the 


io  Coire.  MAYENFELD.  60.  RouU.    283 

Rhine  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge  (foot-passengers  cross  on  the 
1.  side)  and  stops  at  Mayenfeld  (IToD')  (AUe  Post)  ^  an  ancient 
and  thriving  little  town  with  1299  inhab.  The  old  tower,  erected 
in  the  4th  cent,  by  the  Roman  Emp.  Gonstantius  as  a  defence 
against  the  invasions  of  the  barbarians,  is  now  fitted  up  as  a 
restaurant,  often  visited  from  Ragatz.  The  summit  commands  a 
fine  view.  The  old  castle  of  the  Counts  of  Toggenburg,  was  the 
residence  of  the  bailiffs  of  the  Grisons  down  to  1795.  On  the 
hill  to  the  r.  is  the  suppressed  abbey  of  Pfaffers. 

The  St.  Lnsienftteiir  (2386'),  &  fortified  defile  between  the  Fldscherberg 
(3753')  and  the  Folknit  (8418'),  through  which  the  road  to  Vaduz  and  Feld- 
kirch  leads,  may  he  attained  from  Mayenfeld  in  1  hr.  (Inn,  good  wine). 
The  highest  hlock-house,  1>|2  hr.  farther,  commands  a  beautiful  prospect. 

On  the  slope  of  the  hill,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Land- 
quart  and  the  Rhine,  lies  the  village  of  Malans  (2(347')  (Kreuz) 
with  the  chateau  of  Bodmer,  the  property  of  the  De  Salis  family, 
and  for  many  years  the  residence  of  the  poet  Gaudenz  de  8alis- 
Seewis  (d.  1834).  The  Kompleter,  the  most  esteemed  wine  in 
the  valley,  is  grown  here. 

The  bridge  (the  Vntere  ZoU  or  Tardis-Brueke)^  by  which  the 
high  road  crosses  the  Rhine,  is  the  boundary  between  the  cantons 
of  St.  Gallen  and  the  Grisons.  Above  this  bridge  the  Landquart 
descends  from  a  narrow  ravine  to  the  Rhine,  and  is  crossed  by 
the  line  near  the  station  {^Hottl  Landquart)  of  that  name  (Prat- 
tig'au  route,  see  R.  78\  On  the  r.  bank,  the  barren  Orau- 
homer  (9341',  see  p.  28o)  rise  in  the  background. 

The  district  between  Mayenfeld  and  Ooire  is  remarkable  for 
its  fertility.  Its  central  point  is  stat.  Zisers  (1863')  (Krone), 
an  ancient  borough,  near  which  is  Molindra,  a  beautiful  summer- 
residence  and  farm  of  the  Bishop  of  Coire.  It  has  often  suffered 
from  inundations  and  deposits  of  stone  brought  by  the  torrents 
(Runsen  or  Rufen)  from  the  mountains,  which  occasionally  even 
destroy  the  road  after  heavy  rains.  The  damage  caused  by  the 
inundations  of  1868  and  1872  is  still  observable.  On  the  r. 
are  the  snowy  heights  of  the  Calanda  (9213'),  which  may 
be  ascended  in  7 — S  hrs.  from  Coire  (guide  advisable) ;  quarters 
for  the  night  at  the  highest  Haldenstein  Chalets ,  2  hrs.  from 
the  summit.  On  the  wooded  slopes  of  the  1.  bank  of  the  Rhine 
are  the  ruined  castles  of  Krottenstein,  Liechtenstein^  and  Halden- 
stein. Above  the  latter  village  rises  a  dilapidated  tower.  The 
village  itself  contains  a  well  preserved  chateau  enclosed  by  walls. 

Coire  (Germ.   C/rt*r),  see  p.  287. 

67.    Eagatz  and  Pfaffers. 

Hotels.  ^QcELLENHoF  (PI.  a),  a  new  and  spacious  sanitary  establishment 
and  pension ,  and  *Hof  Ragatz  (PI.  h^,  both  belonging  to  Herr  Simon, 
the  director,  R.  3-4,  B.  1»|2,  D.  4,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.  -,  TaMina-Hotel  (PI.  c), 
less  expensive.  *Schweizkrhop  (PI.  d),  R.  I'ja — 2,  D.  3,  pension  6—7  fr.  \ 
*Kroxk  (PI.  e),  R.  2,  D.  5,  A.  'I*  fr. ;  *  Hotel  and  Pension  Andekes  (PI.  f), 


(PL  I),  inoder.le;  HfitiL  Bjhshos  (PI.  m) 

rrom  the  town,  on  Itae  w»y  to  the  Freuden 

Taletnph  OMoa  (PI.  7),  opposite  the  E 


-2jers.  7,_3— iperi.  10(^,»iidtee. 


Ragad  to  Plitteia,  wilb  b^t  or  2  hrs.,  for 

..  .  jndtee. 

MtUtltail  (PI.  4),  AeuMil  (PI,  2),  >Dd  fftjinciitad  (PI.  3) 
m  atuT  ine  i^urbHuH;  tbe  Dor/iaJ  (PI.  B)  iQ  (he  Elaenbahn-SlnMe,  be- 

lugB  iwimialDg  b&tb  tl  ft.)  ud  private  baths' (2  fr.].     Lwliiu  9i[t-H>Ii 
».  m.  .od  4-6  p.  m.    Tickets  al  tbe  office,  to  tbe  I.  of  the  Huf  aagali. 

Bagati  (iim-J,  a  vlUage  with  1825  inhab.  (2U  Prot.),  situ- 
ated on  the  impetuous  Tutnina,  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  lower 
down  (16&0'),  coutiine  the  old  residence  of  the  Abbots  of  PtlffeTg, 
converted  in.  1840  int«  an  hotel  and  bach-esUblishineiit  (the  'Hof 
KsgMz')  to  which  the  wat«r  is  conveyed  from  PfifTers  by  a 
conduit,  V/2  M.  in  length.  Ragatz  has  become  a  very  favourite 
watering-place  of  late,  and  U  visited  by  50,000  persons  annually. 


The  Cutyatten  and  CuTsaal  at  the  back  of  the  Quellenhof 
where  a  band  plays  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  are  the  chief 
rendezvous  of  visitors.  The  oper  pavilion  on  the  E.  aide  afford! 
■  pleasing   survey   of  the   valley   of  the  Rhine.     There   are   also 


PFAFFERg.  61.  nouU.     285 

reading,  assembly,  and  billiard  rooms  for  wet  weather.  The  new 
bath>buildings  and  Trlnkhalle  are  on  the  W.  side.  Beyond  them 
are  pleasure  grounds  with  a  whey-cure  establishment,  etc. 

In  the  Churchyard,  by  the  E.  wall,  is  the  monument  of  the 
philosopher  Schelling  (d.  at  Ragatz  in  1854).  At  the  last  houses 
(1  M.)  on  the  road  from  the  cemetery  to  Sargans,  a  path 
ascends  to  the  1.  through  vineyards  to  (10  min.)  the  ruined 
castle  of  Freudenbergj  the  view  from  which  extends  to  the  1.  as 
far  as  Sargans,  and  to  the  r.  as  far  as  the  Prattigau ;  in  return- 
ing, take  the  path  along  the  hills,  between  houses  and  gardens. 

*Bad  Pf&iferi,  525'  above  Ragatz,  is  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable spots  in  Switzerland.  A  narrow  carriage-road  in  good 
repair  and  of  gradual  ascent,  leads  between  sombre  limestone 
diflfs,  500  to  800'  high,  from  Ragatz  to  (21/2  M.)  Bad  Pf afters. 
The  gorge  is  so  narrow,  that  the  impetuous  Tamina  leaves  little 
space  for  the  road.  Near  a  brook  which  descends  from^a 
height  on  the  r.,  a  finger-post,  indicates  the  path  to  the  1.  to 
the  village  of  Pfaffers  (Y2  hr.),  crossing  the  Tamina  by  a  wooden 
bridge,  and  ascending  the  steep  r.  bank  by  a  zigzag  path.  The 
path  from  the  Baths  to  the  village  mentioned  below  is  preferable. 

The  bath-house,  constructed  in  1704  between  walls  of  rock 
600'  high,  enjoys  sunshine  in  the  height  of  summer  from  10  till 
4  o'clock  only.  Externally  it  has  a  monastic  and  somewhat  un- 
inviting appearance ,  but  the  accommodation  is  good ,  although 
unpretending.  Table  d'h6te  at  12  o'clock  21/2,  at  7.  30  p.  m. 
IV2  fr.,  B.  1,  R.  from  5  to  20  fr.  per  week  (1^2  fr.  per  day 
for  occasional  visitors),  billiard  and  reading  rooms,  drawing-room 
for  ladies,  very  pleasant  baths  (1  fr.).  These  baths  are  chiefly 
frequented  by  the  middle  classes,  and  by  invalids  who  prefer 
to  take  the  waters  near  their  source. 

The  abundant  hot  springs  (97 — lOO*'),  clear  as  crystal,  and  free 
from  taste  and  smell,  resemble  those  of  Gastein  and  Wildbad  in 
their  constituents.  They  rise  ^4  ^*  from  the  bath-house  in  a 
gloomy  **QoTge,  30 — 50'  wide,  through  which  the  Tamina  dashes 
its  foaming  waters.  Visitors  to  the  gorge  and  the  springs  procure 
tickets  (1  fr.  each)  in  the  principal  corridor  of  the  bath-house, 
where  a  guide  is  assigned  to  them.  The  wooden  pathway 
to  the  springs  rests  securely  on  the  solid  rock  or  on  masonry, 
30 — 40'  above  the  brawling  stream,  passes  between  overhanging 
walls  of  rock,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Tamina,  and  leads  to 
the  vaulted  chamber  (98'  long)  of  the  new  spring  (to  the  1.  of 
the  old),  dating  from  '2nd  O. t.,  I860'.  The  high  temperature 
in  this  cavern  precludes  a  stay  f  more  than  a  few  seconds. 
There  is  perhaps  hardly  a  more  impressive  spot  among  the  Alps. 
The  rocks  of  the  rival  Gorge  of  Trient  (p.  201)  are  inferior  in 
boldness.  The  excursion  from  the  station  of  Ragatz  to  the  springs 
and  back  may  be  accomplished  on  foot  in  2y2--3  hrs. 


286     RouU  67.  PFAFFERS.    ^ 

From  the  Baths  to  the  Village  of  Pfdffera  (IV4  hr.). 
The  path  ascends  In  windings  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Tamina; 
after  10  min.  another  path  diverges  to  the  1. ;  the  gorge  of  the 
Tamina  (5  min.)  is  then  crossed  by  a  natural  bridge,  termed 
the  ^  Beschlus8\  situated  immediately  above  the  springs,  whence 
a  somewhat  steep  path  cut  in  steps,  slippery  in  rainy  weather, 
descends  in  20  min.  to  a  meadow,  where  it  divides:  to  the  r. 
to  Vattis  (see  below),  to  the  1.  to  the  village  of  Pfaffers.  The 
road  which  is  reached  in  10  min.  may  again  be  quitted  (1/2  M.) 
by  a  path  to  the  r.,  which  in  ^4  ^^'  *gain  unites  with  the  road, 
opposite  the  first  houses  of  the  village. 

The  Vaiage  of  Pf&ffers  (26900  (*I^owe;  *Taube;  AdUr)  lies 
on  the  hill,,  11/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Ragatz.  The  once  rich  and 
powerful  Benedictine  Abbey  was  suppressed  in  1838  by  the  St. 
Gallen  government,  in  consequence  of  internal  dissensions.  The 
abbey-buildings ,  erected  in  1665 ,  have  been  converted  into  a 
lunatic  asylum  (St.  Pirminsberg,  27100.  The  (1/4  hr.)  Tabor- 
berg  and  the  path  descending  to  Ragatz  command  a  fine  view 
of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  with  the  Falknis  in  the  background, 
and  the  Churflrsten  (p.  45)  to  the  N.W.  Lower  down  is  the 
ruin   of    Wartenstein,    on   the    opposite   side    of    a    ravine,   and 

adjoining  it,  to  the  r.,  the  chapel  of  St.   George. 

Excursions.  Ragatz  forms  good  head-quarters  for  exploring  the 
picturesque  mountains  in  the  neighbourhood  {Franz  Oort  is  a  good  guide). 
The  following  excursions  of  8 — 10  hrs.  are  recommended:  MayenfeHt.  see 
p.  283  \  the  Prdttigdu  and  Davos,  B.  78  ^  Flascherherg  and  the  little  fortress 
of  Luziensteig,  p.  283  \  the  Churfirsten,  p.  45 ;  the  valley  of  Weisstannen  (p. 
47)  with  the  Rieseten  Orat  and  the  Ramin,  p.  304  •,  the  Kcd/evser-Thal,  p. 
47;  the  Orauhdmer  (9341'),  the  ascent  of  which  (5  hrs.,  fatiguing)  is  rarely 
made,  commanding  a  view  from  their  summit  of  the  Lake  of  Constance 
beyond  the  Churfirsten. 

Pis  Alun  (4859'))  2  hrs.  above  the  village  of  PfafTers,  commands  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  a  great  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine.  From  Pfaflfers 
through  the  wood  to  the  pastures  of  the  village  1  hr.,  St.  Margarethen 
3|4  hr.,  where  a  guide  should  be  engaged.    Ascent  easy. 

From  Ragatz  to  Reichenau  (7 — 8  hrs.)  there  are  two  paths 
through  the  valley  of  the  Tamina;  one  leading  by  Bad  Pfaffers,  Valens, 
Vasifn  (3041'),  and  Vattis,  along  the  W.  slope  of  the  mountain,  fatiguing, 
and  unpleasant  after  rain;  the  other  (shorter  and  better)  passes  by  the 
Village  of  Pfaffers,  Ragol,  and  Vadura  (3176'),  skirting  the  long  E.  side  of 
the  Calanda  (p.  283).  The  two  paths  unite  near  Vdttis  (3107')  (Gen;sli, 
a  good  country  inn).  The  path  here  quits  the  Tamina,  which  issues  from 
the  Kalfeuser-Thal  to'  the  W.,  crosses  the  G&rbs-Bach  three  times,  and 
generally  follows  the  E.  side  of  the  valley.  The  chalets  of  the  upper 
valley  are  collectively  called  Kunkels.  When  the  summit  of  the  Kunkels^ 
or  Foppa  Pass  (4433')  is  attained,  turn  slightly  to  the  1.,  to  the  corner  of 
the  pine-forest,  and  enter  the  defile  of  La  Foppa  (5  min.  to  the  r.  of  the 
path  a  superb  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  may  be  obtained) ;  then  a 
rugged  and  stony  descent  to  Tamins  (p.  305)  and  Reichenau  (p.  355).  A  car- 
f|age-road  is  projected. 


287 
68.    Goire. 

Germ.  Cliar,  Ital.  Ck^ira,  Roman.  Qnoira  or  Cnera. 

Hotels.  *Steinbock,  with  caf^  on  the  ground-floor,  R.  2'|i — 4,  D.  4, 
S.  3,  B.  liJ2,  L.  and  A.  l^j*  fr.  ^  *Freifxk  and  Weisses  Kreuz  united,  R.  2, 
D.  2^2,  B.  1»|4,  A.  ^2  fr.  y  *  Lukmanier,  nearest  the  station,  R.  2,  L.  Jfz, 
B.  1>J4,  A.  3|4  fr.,  omnibus  50,  luggage  25  c.  —  *STEiiy,  moderate  ^  *Rother 
Lowe  ;  Sonne,  of  the  2nd  class,  moderate.  —  Beer  at  the  ^Restaurant  de 
la  Poste^  at  the  Rother  Ldwe^  at  the  Lihcenhof  near  the  market,  and  at  the 
Brewery^  *|2M.  from  the  town,  on  the  road  to  Reichenau.  *Cafi  Calanda, 
opposite  the  post-office ;  Zum  Grahen  and  JSchiitzenhaus  in  the  Graben-Allee. 

Telegraph  Office  adjoining  the  new  Post-office. 

Carriages,  one-horse  to  Thusis  12  fr.  and  2  fr.  fee,  two-horse  25  fr.  there 
and  back.     The  vehicles  of  J.  C.  Kvoni  are  recommended. 

Wines.  ValtelUna  (red ,  see  p.  XXII) ,  abundant  and  cheap  (1 — l^fa  fr. 
per  bottle).  Kompleter  y  produced  near  Malans  (p.  283)  in  the  valley  of 
the  Rhine,  near  the  lower  Zollbriicke,  good  but  expensive.  The  '  Land- 
wein\  or  wine  of  the  country,  of  which  the  best  is  the  Herrscha/tler^  is 
a  good  red  wine,  little  inferior  to  that  of  the  ValtelUna.  Good  wine  at 
the  Ho/kelleTy  to  the  1.  in  the  Episcopal  Court  (also  a  few  bedrooms),  or 
*  Zu  den  Rebl€uten\  by  the  Church  of  St.  Martin.  —  Cigars  at  Hitz'Sy  Post- 
strasse. 

Chief  Attractions.  Cathedral  of  St.  Lucius  \  walks  on  the  RosenhUgel 
(Restaurant)  ijs  H.  from  the  town-gate,  to  the  1.  of  the  Julier  road,  afibrding 
the  finest  view  of  the  town,  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  and  the  mountains. 


The  territory  of  the  Canton  of  the  Grisons  (Oranbilnden)^  of  which  Coire 
is  the  capital,  was  under  the  sway  of  the  Dukes  of  Swabia  until  1268 ;  it 
then  became  an  independent  province  of  the  Germanic  Empire  and  the 
*  residence  of  many  of  the  nobility,  the  Bishop  of  Coire,  the  Abbots  of  Dis- 
sentis  and  Pfaffers,  the  Counts  of  Montfort,  Werdenberg,  Matsch,  the  Ba- 
rons of  Vatz,  Rhasiins,  Belmont,  Aspermont,  etc.,  whose  ruined  castles  are 
still  seen  on  the  heights.  The  sanguinary  feuds  in  which  these  nobles  were 
continually  engaged,  and  their  oppressive  treatment  of  their  vassals  were  a 
source  of  misery  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  district. 

With  a  view  to  remedy  their  grievances,  the  people  banded  together 
on  several  occasions,  and  formed  in  1396  the  '  League  of  the  House  of 
Ood""  (Bund  des  Gotteshauses),  of  which  the  church  of  Coire  was  at  the 
head  ?  in  1424  the  '  Upper ''  or  '  Orep  League  "*  (Obere  or  Graue  Bund)  wa^ 
formed,  and  between  1428  and  1436  the  '■League  of  the  Ten  Jurisdic- 
tions'' (Bund  der  10  Gerichte)  (Lia  da  Ca  [CasaJ  Dk^  Lia  Orischa^  Lia 
deltas  desch  dretturas).  These  coaliHons  gave  rise  to  the  Three  Leagues 
(Biinde)  of  Upper  Rhsetia,  which  established  themselves  in  1471.  The 
two  first  allied  themselves  the  same  year  with  the  Helvetic  Confederation. 
Since  1803  the  Grisons  have  formed  a  Swiss  Canton,  and  one  of  the  most 
extensive  (2736  sq.  M.,  embracing  more  than  ^jeth  of  the  entire  Swiss 
territory  ^  91,177  inhab.) ;  the  canton  is  remarkable  for  the  variety  of  its 
scenery,  climate,  productions,  and  language,  as  well  as  for  its  national  pe- 
culiarities and  political  constitution.  The  country  consists  of  a  complete 
.network  of  mountains,  about  150  valleys,  and  a  great  number  of  snow-clad 
peaks.  Barren  rocks  are  surrounded  by  luxuriant  cultivation ;  wild  deserts, 
where  winter  reigns  during  three-fourths  of  the  year,  lie  amidst  forests  of 
chestnuts,  under  the  deep  blue  sky  of  Italy. 

This  Canton  was  till  1848  divided  into  26  small  and  almost  en- 
tirely independent  republics,  termed  Hoeh-Gerichte  (jurisdictions),  which 
were  abolished  by  the  new  constitution.  The  population  is  composed  of  three- 
fifths  Prot.  and  two-fifths  Rom.  Cath. ;  one-third  is  of  the  German,  two- 
thirds  of  the  Romansch  race.  The  latter  speak  a  language  peculiar  to  them- 
selves, with  two  distinct  dialects :  the  Ladin  in  the  Engadine,  the  Albula, 
and  Miinster  valleys  (probably  similar  to  the  'Latin'  of  the  Roman  peasants 
mentioned  by  Livy),  and  the  £om»n8p)k  or  Jtpnaapi,  in  the  valleys  of  pia. 


288     Route  68.  COIRE. 

sentis  and  Ilanz,  in  the  Oberhalbfltein,  Schams,  tttc.  The  following  passage 
from  Psalm  XCVI.,  ver.  2, 3,  may  serve  as  a  specimen  of  the  language :  '•Chante 
al  Segner^  eelebre  »i«u  nom,  annunze  offni  di  sieu  mUM.  Requinte  traunter 
iU  pdvels  tia  gloria^  traunter  tuottas  naziuns  sias  ovra*  mUraviglitwu" .  (Sing 
unto  the  Lord,  bless  his  name,  show  forth  his  salvation  from  day  to  day. 
Declare  his  glory  among  the  heathen,  his  wonders  among  all  people.)  Rhine 
signifies  in  Romansch  ^running  water".  —  This  dialect  is  generally  spoken 
amongst  the  people,  but  the  German  tongue  is  spreading  every  day,  and  is 
taught  in  the  schools  so  successfully  that  the  younger  members  of  the  com- 
munity speak  it  more  correctly  than  the  inhabitants  of  German  Switzerland. 
Under  the  rule  of  the  Swabian  princes  all  the  country  was  Romansch.  In 
the  Tyrol,  where  Ladin  was  formerly  general,  it  is  now  confined  to  the  two 
valleys  of  Groden  and  Enneberg.  The  Romansch  literature  formerly  com- 
prised about  100  works,  for  the  most  part  of  a  religious  character.  Of  late 
years  it  has  been  increased  by  a  considerable  number  of  educational  works 
(grammar  and  dictionary  by  Conrad^  Carisch^  etc.).  The  Ortografia  et  Ortoipia 
of  Palioppi  has  furnished  the  foundations  for  a  scientific  grammar  of  the 
language.     In  the  valleys  S.  of  the  Alps,  Italian  is  the  prevailing  tongue. 

Goire  (1935Q,  the  capital  of  the  Canton  of  the  Orisons ,  the 
Curia  Rhaetorum  of  the  later  Roman  empire ,  and  since  the  4th 
cent,  the  seat  of  a  Bishop,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Plesaufj  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  V/2  M.  from  the  town. 
Population  7552,  of  whom  5625  are  Prot.  in  the  lower  town, 
and  about  1919  Rom.  Cath.,  who  reside  chiefly  within  the  precincts 
of  the  Bischdfliche  Hof,  or  Episcopal  Court,  a  quarter  of  the 
town  surrounded  with  walls ,  and  the  most  interesting  part  of 
Coire.  Here  is  situated  the  episcopal  *Cathedral  of  St.  Lucins, 
part  of  which  dates  from  the  8th  cent,  (sacristan  1  fr.). 

The  Portal  of  the  entrance-court  is  very  ancient;  the  columns  rest  on 
lions,  at  the  top  is  also  a  lion  (emblematical  of  Christ  the  Lion  of  Judah, 
the  guardian  of  the  sanctuary :  Ezek.  1 ,  10 ,  Genesis  49 ,  9,  Rev.  6,  5) ; 
on  the  columns  are  the  Apostles  (the  Lombard  churches  are  frequently 
decorated  in  the  same  style).  —  The  Interior  of  the  church  is  worthy  of 
careful  inspection  on  account  of  its  great  antiquity;  the  capitals  are 
curious ;  the  vaulting  of  the  nave  is  of  later  date ;  the  elevated  arches  in 
the  aisles  are  Saracenic.  South  Aisle:  ^Sarcophagus  of  Bishop  Ortlieb 
de  Brandis  (d.  1494)  in  Verona  marble ;  altar-piece,  a  Madonna  by  Stumm^ 
a  pupil  of  Rubens ;  tomb  of  Count  de  Buol  -  8chauenstein  (d.  1797),  and 
opposite,  that  of  his  son  (d.  1833).  South  Transept:  Altar-piece,  the 
upper  part,  Herodias  by  Cranach;  in  the  centre  a  Madonna  of  Rubens' 
School;  the  side  pictures  by  the  elder  Holbein  and  his  school.  Reliquary  of 
the  10th  cent.;  altar  with  decorations  of  the  5th  century.  Choir:  ^High- 
altar  beautifully  carved  by  Jacob  Roesch  (1491).  Stalls  and  a  tabernacle 
of  the  14th  cent,  (the  latter  attributed  to  Adam  Krafi't).  The  Crypt  is  a 
low  chamber  with  flat  ceiling  and  short  Romanesque  columns  of  the  5th 
century.  North  Aisle:  1st  Altar,  St.  Aloysius  hy  A.  Kaufftnann.  On  the 
central  altar,  ^Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  by  DUrer.  In  the  Sacristy  is  the 
rich  ^Treasury  t  containing  reliquaries,  crucifixes,  candelabra,  vestments, 
etc.;  reliquaries  in  chased  copper  (8th  cent.);  embroidered  stufl's  of  the 
Saracenic  period ;  fragments  ot  silk  dating  from  the  time  of  Justinian ; 
Christ  and  Peter  on  the  sea ;  a  miniature  on  lapis  lazuli  by  C.  Dolce.  The 
glass  cabinets  contain  charters  granted  by  Charlemagne,  Louis  le  D^- 
bonnaire,  Lothaire,  etc.  The  Roman  mosaic  was  found  during  the  erection 
of  the  cantonal  school. 

In  front  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  handsome  modem  Gothic  Foun- 
tain,   with  statues  of  SS.  Lucius,  Nicholas,  Mary,  and  Francis. 

The  Episcopal  Fala4)e9  adjoining  the  church,  is  also  very 
ancient.     The   Chapel,   one  of  the  earliest  Christian  edifices  in 


COmE.  68.  Route.     289 

existence,  is  within  the  walls  of  the  ancient  Roman  tower  Marsotl 
(^Mars  in  oculis'),  which  is  connected  with  the  palace.  This  tower 
and  another  named  Spinoel  (^Spina  in  oculis')  form  the  N.  angles 
of  the  Court.  An  ancient  tower  to  the  N.W.,  with  the  adjacent 
wall ,  appear  also  to  be  of  Roman  origin.  The  names  of  these 
towers  imply  that  the  Rhxtians  were  kept  in  subjection  by  the 
threats  of  their  Roman  conquerors. 

Behind  the  cathedral  is  the  Monastery  of  St.  Lucius,  converted 
into  a  seminary,  and  the  Cantonal  School  (for  both  creeds). 
Beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  and  part  of  the  Ca- 
landa  from  the  (3/4  hr.)  Chapel  of  St.  Lucius ,  situated  amidst 
underwood  high  up  on  the  slope  of  the  Mittenberg  fsee  below). 
The  traveller  may  then  return  by  the  Liirlibad  (Inn),  a  favou- 
rite resort,  prettily  situated  in  vineyards,   '/-i  ^'-  ^'^m  the  town. 

The  town  itself  contains  little  to  detain  the  traveller.  The 
Church  of  St.  Martin  y  the  Government  Buildings  ^  the  Hotel  de 
Ville^  and  the  Hospital  founded  by  Father  Theodosius,  Superior 
of  the  Capuchins,  are  the  principal  buildings.  Three  windows  of 
the  Council  Chamber  in  the  Town  Hall  are  of  stained  glass  of 
the  16th  cent.  The  Nat.  Hist.  Cabinet  is  a  collection  of  some 
merit. 

Coire  owes  its  prosperity  and  busy  appearance  to  its  position 

on  the  chief  routes  from  W.  Germany  and  E.  Switzerland  to  Italy. 
Points  of  View.  Promenades  of  the  Rosenhilgel,  p.  287.  The  Mitten- 
berg (3628'),  to  the  I^.E.  above  the  town,  is  ascended  by  a  good,  but  steep 
path  in  2  hrs.  *,  view  over  the  whole  valley  of  the  Vorder-Rhein  as  far  «s 
Dissentis ,  and  down  the  Rhine  to  Jenina,  near  Mayenfeld.  The  Chapel 
of  St.  Lucius  and  Liirlibad,  see  above.  —  Bad  Paschugg  (p.  320)  is  4Jja  V. 
from  Coire,  in  the  valley  of  the  Plessur.  —  The  Spontihk^fe  (6361') 
(4  hrs.),  a  prolongation  of  the  chain  running  S.  W.  from  Coire  towards 
the  Schyn,  parallel  with  the  Domleschg,  opposite  Felsberg;  the  valley  of 
Schanflgg  is  seen  as  far  as  Peist,  and  a  portion  of  the  Vorder-Rhein 
Valley.  —  The  * StaetzerJiom  (8461'),  highest  point  of  this  range,  farther 
S. ,  see  p.  320.  —  The  Calanda^  see  p.  283.  —  The  following  excursif  n 
of  2—3  days  is  recommended :  in  the  afternoon  by  Malix  to  Parpan  3  hrs.  \ 
the  next  morning  in  2'|2— 3  hrs.  .to  the  Steetzerhorn  (p.  320),  descent  to 
Thusis  6  hrs. ;  to  the  Via  Mala ,  and  back  to  Reichenau  \  in  the  afternoon 
by  diligence  to  Coire. 

69.    From  Wyl  through  the  Toggenbnrg  to  Haag 
in  the  Valley  of  the  BJiine. 

Comp.  Mop,  p,  376. 

Railway  from  Wyl  to  Ebnat  in  1  hr.  5  min.  ^  fares  1  fr.  95, 
1  -£r.  40  c.  (2nd  and  3rd  class  only).  —  From  Ebnat  to  Haag  22' js  M., 
by  diligence  in  4  hrs.,  starting  at  9  a.  m.  — Diligence  several  times  daily 
to  Nesslau  in  1  hr.,  and  to  Wildhaus  in  S'ji  hrs. 

Wyl)  a  station  on  the  Wiuterthur  and  St.  Gallen  railway,  see 
p.  37.  The  line  traverses  the  Toggenburg ,  the  thriving  and 
populous  valley  of  the  Thur. 

When  the  Counts  of  Toggenburg  became  extinct  (1436),  the  County 
waa  purchased  by  the  Abbots  of  St.  Gall,    who  at  the  same  time  secured 

BjtoEjcBa,  Switzerland.   6tb  Edition.  19 


290     RouU  69.  WILDHAUS. 

to  the  inhabitants  their  ancient  rights  and  privileges.  In  the  Course  of 
centuries,  however,  a  great  portion  of  the  population  having  embraced 
Protestantism,  the  abbots  violated  their  contract,  which  resulted  in  their 
expulsion  at  the  commencement  of  the  18th  cent.  This  gave  rise  to  the 
Toggenhurg  War^  a  violent  feud  in  which  the  Uom.  Cath.  cantons  took 
up  arms  in  the  cause  of  St.  Oallen,  and  the  Protestant  in  defence  of  the 
Toggenburgers.  Upwards  of  15(i,uiX)  men  were  thus  gradually  brought 
into  the  field,  whilst  in  the  distance  France  and  Austria  on  one  side,  and 
England,  Prussia,  and  Holland  on  the  other,  manifested  the  warmest  sym- 
pathy with  the  belligerents.  On  the  defeat  (July,  1712)  of  the  Horn.  Cath. 
troops  by  those  of  Bern  and  Zurich  at  Villmergen  in  the  Aargau ,  a  gen- 
eral peace  was  concluded  at  Aarau ,  which  secured  to  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Toggenburg  the  full  enjoyment  of  their  ancient  liberties,  though  they 
were  still  to  belong  to  the  Canton  of  St.  Oall.  The  town  of  Wyl  suffered 
greatly  on  this  occasion,  but  was  stoutly  defended  by  its  inhabitants 
under  the  brave  general  Felber  against  10,CltO  of  the  troops  of  Zurich 
and  Bern. 

Opposite  Lutishurg  the  line  crosses  the  Ouggerloch  by  means 
of  a  viaduct  170  yds.  in  length,  and  190  ft.  in  height,  stations 
Lutschwylj  Dietfurt,  and  Lichteniteig  (*Krone)^  a  pleasant- 
looking  town  on  a  rocky  height,  commanded  by  a  loftily  situated 
new  church.     To  the  1.  are  the  ruins  of  Neu-Toggenburg . 

Wattwyl  (Ross;  Toggenburg) j  a  charming  Swiss  village.  On 
an  eminence  to  the  r.  Is  the  monastery  of  St.  Maria  der  Engelriy 
and  above  it  the  ruined  castle  of  Yberg.  Kappelj  which  was 
burned  down  in  185B,  has  since  been  rebuilt  in  a  superior  style. 

Ebnat  (^2106')  (* Krone;  Sonne)  is  at  present  the  terminus 
of  the  railway.  Diligence  to  Nesslau,  Wildhaus,  and  Haag,  see 
above. 

The  road  continues  to  traverse  the  fertile  and  industrious 
valley  of  the  Thur,  passing  KrummenaUj  where  the  stream  is 
crossed  by  a  natural  bridge  of  rock  termed  the  ^Sprung\  and  Neu 
St.  Johann  (Schafle),  with  the  buildings  of  a  suppressed  Abbey. 

4^2  M.  KesBlau  (2470'J  (Krone;  Traube)  is  next  reached, 
whence  the  Speer  (p.  4o)  may  be  ascended  by  the  Alp  im  Load 
(Inn)  in  4  hrs.  (descent  to  Wesen  on  the  Wallensee  2^2  hrs.). 

The  scenery  now  becomes  more  bleak.  The  road  leads  pa-t  a 
picturesque  fall  of  the  Weisse  Thur  to  (21/4  M.)  Stein  (Krone) 
and  (21/4  M.)  Starkeribach,  a  straggling  village.  To  the  r.  is  the 
ruin  of  Starkenstein,  (From  Starkenbach  or  iStiin  to  Amden,  see 
p.  45.)     The   road   then   traverses  a  pleasant  part   of  the  valley 

to  (I1/2  M.) 

Alt  St.  Johann  (2920')  (♦Rossli ,  beyond  the  bridge),  to 
the  S.  the  Churflrsten  (p.  45),  to   the  N.   the   snow-clad   8entis 

(p.  280). 

93/4  M.  WUdliauB  (3622')  (*Hirsch;  Sonne),  the  next  vilhige, 
3  M.  farther,  was  the  birthplae  of  the  reformer  Zwingli.  The 
wooden  house  in  which  he  was  born,  1st  J«in.,  1484,  blackened 
with  age,  is  passed  before  the  village  is  entered.  Wildhaus  be- 
longed to  Rhsetia  till  1310,  and  was  the  last  place  in  the  district 
^here  Romansch  was  spoken  (p.  289).     The  Rom.  Cath.  Church 


NAfELS.  70.  RouU.    291 

is  so  sitaated  that  the  water  from  the  roof  descends  on  one  side 
to  the  Thur,  on  the  other  to  the  Rhine.  Beyond  the  village, 
which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Schafberg  (7821'),  a  fine  view  is 
obtained  of  the  seven  peaks  of  the  Churflrsten  (p.  45);  the  pros-^ 
pect  from  the  neighbouring  Semmerikopf  (iSlTQ  is  still  more 
extensive.  Appenzell  (p.  27^)  is  8,  Wallenstadt  (p.  46)  6,  Werden- 
berg  (see  below)  3  hrs.  distant  from  Wildhaus.  The  road  de- 
scends in  windings  to  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  to  Oams  (Schafle), 
and  then  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  railway  station 

8^4  M.  Haag  (p.  282),  while  a  road  to  the  r.  leads  by 
Orabs  and  Werdenherg  to  stat.  Buehi  (p.  282). 

70.   From  Wesen  to  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg. 

Olanu. 

Railway  from  Wesen  to  Olarus  in  if«  hr.  (i  fr.  30  c. ,  90  c. ,  65  c.)* 
Diligence  from  Qlaras  to  Lintbthal  four  times  daily  in  2  hrs.,  fare2fr. 
80  c. ;  to  Stachelberg  2  fr.  20  c. 

The  Canton  of  Olanis  consists  of  the  two  extensive  Alpine  valleys  of 
the  Linth  and  the  Sem/y  from  which  numerous  smaller  valleys  diverge. 
The  inhabitimts  (35^150;  6896  Rom.  Gath.)  are  principally  occupied  in 
manufactures,  the  breeding  of  cattle,  and  cheese-making.  The  green 
cheese ,  known  as  Schabziger ,  or  ^scraping  cheese' ,  from  the  manner 
in  which  it  is  used,  is  held  in  much  repute.  The  green  colour  and  aro- 
matic flavour  which  are  so  esteemed  are  due  to  the  admixture  of  melilot, 
or  blue  pansy  (tri/olium  melilotus  coerulea),  with  the  curds,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  3  to  100  lbs.  The  cheese  must  be  kept  for  a  year,  before  ft  is 
At  for  exportation  \  the  peculiar  odour  which  proceeds  from  it  is  perceptible 
in  most  of  the  villages. 

The  line  diverges  to  the  r.  from  the  Coire  railway  after  the 
Linth  Cantd  (p.  44)  is  crossed.  To  the  1.  is  the  Eseker-Canal 
(p.  46).  Stat.  NafeU- Mollis  J  two  villages  on  the  Escher-Canal, 
connected  by  a  bridge. 

Hafels  (Zum  Linththal;  Hitsch;  Schwert),  at  the  N.  base  of 
the  WiggiSj  is,  with  Ober-Vmen  which  lies  3/4  M.  to  the  N.,  the 
only  Rom.  Cath.  village  in  the  canton ,  and  possesses  a  Capuchin 
monastery,  the  poverty  of  which  alone  has  exempted  it  from 
suppression.  The  church  is  the  finest  in  the  canton.  On  9th  April, 
1388,  the  canton  shook  off  the  Austrian  yok«.  In  the  Rauti't 
f elder f  where  eleven  different  battles  took  place,  the  eleven 
commemorative  stones  erected  on  the  occasion ,  bearing  the  date 
1388,  are  still  standing.  On  the  second  Thursday  of  April  the 
Inhabitants  flock  to  Nafels  to  celebrate  the  anniversary  of  their 
emancipation.     On  the   opposite  bank  of  the  Escher-Canal  lies 

Mollii  (1469')  (*fia>,  moderate;  Rabe^  good  wine  at  both), 
a  thriving  village.  The  organ-loft  in  the  church  bears  an  in- 
scription commemorative  of  the  battle  of  Nafels. 

Nettttall  (St.  FridoUn)  y  a  large  village  near  the  indented 
rocks  of  the  Rautispitz  (7497  Q,  the  highest  point  of  the  Wiggi$ 
(p.  302)»  and  at  the  W.  base   of  the   FronalpStock  (6978'j,  is 

19* 


292     Boute  70.  GLARUS.  From  Wesen 

frequently  endangered  by  avalanches  in  spring.     Carriage-road  to 
the  Klonthal,  see  p.  303. 

Olanu  (1490'),  Fr.  Olaris  (^Olabneb  Hof,  Schweizebhof,  both 
at  the  station,  R- 2ijs,  B.  lijz,  A.  1  fr. ;  ^Babe,  opposite  the  post-office, 
moderate ;  *Dbei  Eidqenossen  ;  Lowe  ;  Sokne  ^  beer  at  the  C<tfi  Brunner,, 
opposite  the  station ;  ^Restaurant  on  the  Bergli^  ija  hr.  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
town,  an  admimhle  point  of  view ;  Rail.  Restaurant.    Telegr.  Office  near  the 

Eost-offlce- —Carriages  may  be  hired  oi  Heinr.  Voegeli:  to  Stachelberg  one- 
orse  11,  two-horse  19  fr. ,  there  and  back  13i|2  or  22  fr.  \  to  Elm  (p.  304), 
Mtihlehorn  (p.  46)  or  the  Todi  Hotel  (p.  293)  one-horse  17,  two  horse  28  fr. ; 
to  the  Klonthal,  p.  306,  for  1  pers.  13,  for  each  additional  pers.  2ifs  fr. 
more  (ind.  fee).  Return  carriages  from  the  Linththal  are  frequently  to  be 
found  at  the  railway  station  at  Glarus,  and  may  be  engaged  at  two- 
thirds  of  the  above  charges.  Guides  for  glacier  expeditions,  see  p.  293), 
the  capital  of  the  canton,  with  4826  inhab.,  is  situated  at  the  N.E. 
base  of  the  precipitous  and  imposing  Vorder  -  Oldmiseh  (7648'), 
at  the  W.  base  of  the  Schilt  (7502^,  and  at  the  S.E.  base  of 
the  Wiggia  (74969  j  *^®  barren ,  grey  summits  of  which  form  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  fresh  green  of  the  valley.  The  Haus- 
stock  (10,354^)  forms  the  background  to  the  S. ;  to  the  1.  the 
Kdrpfstock  (9180').  The  town  possesses  considerable  manufactories 
(cotton-printing,  dyeing,  etc.).  In  1861,  during  the  prevalence  of 
the  F5hn  (S.  wind),  the  greater  part  of  the  town  was  reduced  to 
ashes.  The  new  Romanesque  church  is  used  as  a  Rom.  Cath.  and 
Prot.  place  of  worship.  The  reformer  Zwingli  officiated  as  pastor, 
from  1506  to  1516,  at  the  old  church,  the  site  of  which  is  now 
occupied  by  the  courts  of  justice.  The  grass-plats  in  front  of 
them  were  formerly  the  burial-grounds.  On  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  Linth ,  almost  contiguous  to  Glarus ,  lies  the  considerable 
manufacturing  village  of  Ennenda. 

The  *8ehilt  (7508')  may  be  ascended  from  Glarus  in  4  hrs.  Cross 
the  bridge,  ascend  through  wood,  and  traverse  the  meadows  to  the  r. 
A  guide  should  be  engaged  at  the  (2  hrs.)  Heuboden  chalet.  Beautiful 
panorama  from  the  top ,  especially  of  the  wild  Miirtschenstock ,  the  Todi 
group,  and  Glamisch. 

From  Glarus  through  the  Kldnthal  and  Muottaikal  to  Schwyz  see  B. 
74.  Excursion  to  the  Klon-See  (p.  303),  to  Vorauen  9  M.  (two-horse  carr. 
13  fr.),  or  to  the  lake  only  (4'|2  M.),  scenery  beautiful.  To  Coire  by  the 
Semf  Vallep,  see  B.  75. 

The  excursion  from  Glarus  to  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg  is 
most  pleasantly  made  in  an  open  carriage  (see  above);  pedes- 
trians should  select  the  picturesque  road  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Linth,  via  Ennenda ,  to  Schwanden ,  in  preference  to  the  high-road. 

Near  (21/4  M.)  Mitlddi  (1666'),  the  first  village  on  the  high- 
road, a  magnificent  view  is  obtained  of  the  Todi  and  its  gigantic 
neighbours,  which  form  the  background  of  the  valley,  but  are  not 
visible  beyond  (I72  M.)  Schwanden.  The  scenery  is  very  pictu- 
resque, the  fertile  and  populous  valley,  with  its  thriving  manu- 
factories, presenting  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  rocky  and  wooded 
mountains  by  which  it  is  enclosed,  and  the  icy  giant-peaks  at  its 
extremity. 
,     Schwanden  (1712^)  (*AdUrJ  lies  at  the  junction  of  'the  Semf 


to  Staehelherg.  STACHELBERG.  70.  RouU,     293 

or  Kleifh'Tkal  with  the  Linth  or  Gross-Thai,  8^/4  M.  from  Glarus. 
Diligence  to  Engi  and  Elm  in  the  Sernf-Thal,  see  p.  303. 

The  high-road  in  the  Linth -Thai  leads  to  (3/4  M.)  Nidfum 
(L5we),  then  (1  M.)  Leukelbaeh  with  a  picturesque  waterfall,  and 
{1  M.)  Luchsingen  (1916')  (Freihof).  The  Linth  is  now  crossed 
and  (V2  ^0  Hdzingen  reached,  where  the  read  on  the  r.  bank 
(see  above)  unites  with  the  high-road.  Then  on  the  r.  bank  by 
(3/4 M.)  Dieshach  (fine  waterfall,  path  by  the  fountain)  and  (72^0 
Betschwanden  (1958'). 

The  Saaaberg  (6562^) ,  to  the  S.E. ,  the  W.  spur  of  the  K&rp/stork 
(9180'),  which  may  easily  be  ascended  hence,  commands  a  striking  view 
of  the  head  of  the  valley  and  the  surrounding  mountains. 

At  (3/4  M.)  Ruti  the  pedestrian  proceeding  to  the  Baths  quits 
the  road  and  crosses  the  bridge  (r.*)  to  the  1.  bank.  About  3/4  M. 
farther  the  carriage-road  diverges  to  the  r.  to  the 

'^Batht  of  Staohelberg  (2178'),  magnificently  situated  on  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Linth.  The  ♦Hotel  (R.  272,  B.  1,  D.  3,  A.  8/4 
fr. ,  for  patients  more  moderate)  is  frequently  so  crowded  on 
Sundays ,  that  travellers  are  obliged  to  pass  the  night  at  the 
''ChaleV  or  the  ^Seggen  (the  winter-estab.)  on  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river.  The  powerful  sulphureous  alkaline  water  is  obtained 
from  a  cleft  of  the  Braunwaldberg ,  1 1/2  M-  distant ;  the  supply 
is  so  limited,  that  one  bottle  only  is  filled  per  minute.  The 
♦view  of  the  head  of  the  valley  is  strikingly  grand  and  beautiful : 
in  the  centre  is  the  huge  Selhaanft  (9921'),  to  the  r.  the  Kam- 
merstock  (6975') ,  frequently  ascended  from  Linththal ,  and  ad- 
joining it  part  of  the  Todi  is  visible  to  the  1. ;  between  the  latter 
and  the  more  distant  Bifertenstock  (10,778')  is  imbedded  the  Bi- 
ferten  Olacier. 

Stachelberg  is  recommended  as  head-quarters  for  excursions  among  the 
Todi  group  (see  below).  Heinrich  Elmer  of  Elm,  Jo<Kh.  Zteei/el^  Albert 
Zweifel^  and  Jaech  Legler  at  Linththal,  Andreas  Vordermann  and  Alnra- 
hatn  Steussi  at  Qlarus,  and  Peter  He/ti.  at  Luchsingen  are  recommended 
as  guides  for  the  mountains  of  Olarus.  They  are  under  the  supervision 
of  the  Swiss  Alpine  Club ,  and  have  a  fixed  tariff.  Short  excursions : 
Fatschbach-Fall  (p.  295)  \  Pantenbriicke  and  Sandalp,  see  below  ;  also  to  the 
(2  hrs.)  *BraumDald  Alp  (4921'),  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
Todi  ^  to  the  Oberblegisee  (4678'),  etc. 

After  setting  down  passengers  at  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg,  the 
diligence   returns    to  the   r.  bank  to   0/4  M.)  Matt  and  (^2  M.) 

10 V2  M.  Linththal  (2169')  (Adltt;  War;  Rabe),  a  considerable 
village,  containing  a  monument,  to  the  1.  of  the  road,  to  F.  von 
Durler  (p.  34),  the  explorer  of  the  Todi.  Numerous  and  exten- 
sive factories  in  the  neighbourhood.  A  bridge  here  leads  direct 
to  Ennetlinth  and  the  Fatschbachfall  (p.  295). 

Pantenbrficke,  Upper  Sandalp,  Todi. 

The  valley  of  the  Linth<termed  Gross-  Thaly  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
Klein-Thai^  or  Semfthal  (p.  306),  continues  to  be  nearly  level.  A  carriage- 
road  leads  from  Linththal  by  AuengUter  (fine  retrospect  of  the  valley)  to 
the  (Sijz  H.)  pension  and   whey-cure  estab.    Zum  Tifdi  (R.  IIJ2,   R.  1  fr.)) 


294     Route  70.  T6DI. 

situated  on  the  Thier/ehd^  a  green  pasture  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains, 
and  intersected  by  the  gorge  of  the  Linth.  The  Todi  itself  is  not  visible 
hence.  The  second  half  of  the  route  commands  a  view  of  the  ^waterfall 
{TSUff  high)  of  the  Schreienbaeh  ^  which  descends  from  the  rocks  to  the  r., 
resembling  the  Staubbach  at  Lauterbrunnen ,  but  of  greater  volume ; 
rainbow-hues  are  produced  by  the  sun  on  the  spray,  especially  in  the 
morning. 

A  few  paces  beyond  the  Hdtel  Todi  a  bridge  crosses  the  Linth,  beyond 
which  the  steep  and  stony  path  ascends  for  23  min.  A  tablet  on  a  large 
rock  on  the  1.  is  to  the  memory  of  Dr.  Wislicenus,  who  perished  in  Aug., 
1866,  whilst  attempting  to  scale  the  Gritnhorn  (see  below)  without  a  guide. 
The  path  then  descends  towards  the  ravine,  turns  a  corner,  and  reaches 
the  Pantenbrllcke  (pon*  penden$^  3212'),  l*f4  hr.  walk  from  Lintfathal.  This 
bridge,  160'  above  the  Linth,  forms  with  its  adjuncts  a  grand  picture.  The 
old  bridge,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.,  destroyed  in  1852,  probably  by  an 
avalanche,  has  been  replaced.  —  Those  who  desire  to  return  by  a  different 
route  should  cross  the  bridge  and  ascend  the  grassy  slope  in  a  straight 
direction  to  the  (20  min.)  *  Uelialp  (36120,  whence  a  good  view  of  the  Todi 
is  obtained,  then  proceed  to  the  (lifi  hr.)  Bamngarten  Alp  (5285'),  which 
lies  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  valley  above  the  Thierfehd  (see  above),  and  de- 
scend by  Obord  to  the  Auengiiter  (see  above),  situated  on  the  carriage 
road.  The  Uelialp  is  a  very  interesting  point,  not  less  deserving  of  a  visit 
than  the  Pantenbriicke. 

The  ^Upper  Bandalp  (6358'),  4  hrs.  above  the  Pantenbriicke,  commands 
a  very  striking  view.  The  path  leads  from  the  Pantenbriicke,  on  the  r.  bank, 
inclining  to  the  r.  (that  in  a  straight  direction  ascends  to  the  Uelialp,  see 
above)  through  underwood,  crosses  the  Limmem-Bach  which  descends  from 
a  narrow  ravine,  then  the  Sand-Bach ^  as  the  Linth  is  here  called,  and 
ascends  on  the  1.  bank  to  a  point  opposite  the  chalets  of  the  Lower  Sandalp 
(4101') ,  Vli  hr.  from  the  Pantenbriicke  (view  limited).  The  path  now 
follows  the  r.  bank  \  beyond  the  last  chalet  it  crosses  the  Bi/erten  Bach^ 
which  descends  from  the  Bi/erten  Olacier^  and  then  ascends  the  Ochsenblante^ 
a  steep ,  grassy  slope ,  2000^  in  height,  over  which  the  brook  forms  a  fine 
cascade.  It  finally  recro.sses  to  the  1.  bank ,  where  the  brook  forces  its 
passage  through  a  rocky  gorge ,  and  soon  reaches  the  chalets  of  the 
Upper  Sandalp  (refreshments  and  a  bed  of  hay  in  July  and  August).  The 
best  point  of  view  is  ija  hr.  beyond  the  chalets. 

'The  Linththal  is  terminated  by  a  lofty  and  magnificent  group  of  moun- 
tains ,  whose  summits  are  shrouded  with  perpetual  snow.  The  giant  of 
this  group  is  the  ^Tftdi ,  or  Pxa  Rnsein  (11,^7') ,  with  its  brilliant  snowy 
crest ,  the  most  conspicuous  of  all  the  mountains  of  E.  Switzerland ,  as- 
cended for  the  first  time  in  1837.  The  expedition ,  now  frequently  under- 
taken ,  can  only  be  recommended  to  practised  mountaineers ,  accompanied 
by  good  guides  (sec  above).  The  usual  route  is  from  the  Lower  Sandalp  to 
the  Grilnlorn  Huty  built  by  the  Swiss  Alpine  Club,  in  3,  thence  to  the 
summit  in  4 — 5  hrs.  The  descent  may  be  made  by  the  Porta  da  Spetcha^ 
between  the  Bleisas  Verdas  (11,234')  and  Stockgron  (11,201'),  to  the  Ru$ein- 
Thai  and  (7  hrs.)  Di»smiu  (p.  306). 

From  the  Upper  Sandalp  a  fatiguing  route  crosses  the  Sandjfm  and 
the  Sandalp  Pass  (p.  308)  to  Dissentis  in  8  or  10  hrs.  \  another  very  interes- 
ting route  crosses  (9 — 10  hrs.)  the  Claridengrat  to  the  Maderanerthal  (p.  78). 
—  From  the  Pantenbriicke  over  the  Baumgartenalp  (see  above)  and  Kisten 
Pass  (8329')  to  Ilanz  (10—12  hrs.),  suitable  only  for  practised  moun- 
taineers. 


295 

71.    From  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg  to  Altorf. 

Xlansen. 

Comp.  Map*,  pp.  292,  68. 

11  hrs.  Bridle-path:  from  the  Baths  to  the  chapel  in  the  Urner  Boden 
3i|2,  Klausen  2^  Aelpli  Aesch  lijs,  Unterschachen  1,  Altorf  3  hrs.  \  a  fatiguing 
walk ;  guide  (10  fr.)  unneceMary ;  horse  25  fr. 

The  path  from  the  Baths  of  Stachelherg  (2178')  follows  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Linth,  passing  EnrutUnth ;  (^2  l^r-)  the  Frutbach 
is  crossed  (small  waterfall),  then  an  ascent  to  the  r.  through 
wood;  5  min.  farther  (where  the  path  divides,  the  ascent  must 
be  avoided)  a  picturesque  waterfall  of  the  Fatschbach ,  which 
descends  from  the  Trner  Boden.  In  order  to  obtain  a  good  view 
of  the  fall  the  traveller  proceeds  to  the  r.,  about  15  paces  before 
the  little  bridge  is  crossed,  and  ascends  for  200  paces  by  a  nar- 
row path  on  the  1.  bank.  He  should  then  return  almost  to  the 
beginning  of  the  path ,  and  ascend  the  Frutbery ,  on  which  the 
bridle-path  is  reached  in  5  min.  (Those  who  descend  may  here 
at  once  turn  to  the  r.  towards  the  brook.)  Ascent  of  1  hr., 
then  nearly  level ,  by  the  Fatschbach ,  to  a  wall  and  gate ,  the 
boundary  between  Glarus  and  Uri. 

The  Umer  Boden  (272  l^rs.  from  Stachelberg),  one  of  the 
highest  Alpine  pastures,  about  4  M.  long  and  ^2  ^*  hroad,  now 
commences.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  precipitous  and 
rugged  walls  of  the  Ortstockj  or  Silberenstock  (8910^,  and  on  the 
S.  by  the  glaciers  and  snow -fields  of  the  Clariden  (10,709'). 
The  path  traverses  the  occasionally  marshy  pasture ,  and  reaches 
the  Sonne  J  a  mountain-inn ,  72  ^''  ^^^^^  the  frontier  of  Glarus. 
On  an  eminence,  about  25  min.  farther,  stands  a  Chapel.  Inn 
Zum  Tell. 

The  path  traverses  the  pasture  for  72  ^^*  niore,  then  ascends 
(3/4  hr.,  an  excellent  spring  to  the  1.  of  the  path)  a  stony  slope 
to  the  (I72  hr.) 

KlauBen  (64379,  the  summit  of  the  pass,  which  is  seldom 
entirely  free  from  snow.  This  is  the  culminating  point  (watershed) 
between  the  Linth  and  the  Reuss,  and  the  boundary  between  tho 
Urner  Boden  and  the  Schachenthal. 

After  a  gradual  descent  of  72  ^'-j  *  direction-post  is  reached, 
where  the  path  to  the  1.  must  be  taken,  leading  to  (5  min.)  a 
group  of  chalets  and  a  rocky  cleft,  the  approach  to  the  Balm- 
wand  (56759,  w^ich  here  descends  precipitously  to  the  Schachen- 
thal. The  stony  and  rugged  path  descends  by  innumerable 
windings  to  the  Aelpli  ('little  Alp')  Aesch  (4173'),  which,  in  wet 
weather  especially,  will  be  reached  with  no  little  satisfaction. 
The  brook  which  emerges  from  the  glacier  of  the  Scheerhorn 
(10,8149,  the  W.  spur  of  the  Clariden,  the  jagged  peaks  of 
which  bear  a  fanciful  resemblance  to  an  open  pair  of  scissors 
(Scheere) ,  forms ,  to  (he  I, ,  a  remarkably  picturesque  •waterfall 


2.9G     Route  71.  UNTERSCHACHEN. 

(Slduhi),  seen  to  t)ie  best  advantage  from  the  bridge  which  here 
crosses  the  brook. 

About  20  min.  farther  the  Schachenbach  is  crossed ,  and  in 
^4  hr.  more  the  Chapel  of  St.  Anna  is  reached  (good  drinking- 
water).  The  next  bridge  (10  min.)  is  only  for  the  use  of 
the  herdsmen;  the  path  follows  the  r.  bank,  and  in  ^4  ^'• 
reaches  Untench&chen  (3347')  (*Po8t;  mtel  Clausen).  The 
scenery  of  this  charming  Alpine  valley  is  imposing.  The  Scha- 
chenbach forms  several  waterfalls.  Through  the  picturesque 
Brunni-Thal,  which  opens  to  the  1.  below  Lnterschachen,  the 
Grosse  Ruchen,  or  Ruchi  (10,226'),  termed  Alpnoverstock  in  the 
Maderaner-Thal,  is  visible  with  its  glaciers  and  snow-flelds.  On 
the  N.  side  rises  the  Kinzigkulm  (p.  301) ,  the  scene  of  Suwa- 
row's  celebrated  retreat. 

The  next  villages  are  Ober-  and  Unter-Spiringen.  In  2  hrs. 
more  a  stone  bridge  is  crossed ,  20  min.  beyond  which  Bflrglen 
(p.  76)  is  reached.     Thence  to  (20  min.)  Altorff  see  p.  76. 

72.  From  Wadenswyl,  Eichterswyl,  or  Bappenchwyl 

to  Einsiedeln. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  40. 

From  Wiidenswyl  9^)4  M.,  from  Richterswyl  8M4  M.,  from  Rapperschwyl 
12  M.  —  Diligence  from  Wadenswyl  to  Einsiedeln  once  daily  in  2'|2  brs. 
(2  fr. ) ;  from  Bichterswyl  to  Einsiedeln  three  times  daily  in  2>|8  brs. 
(2  fr.) ',  to  Schwyz  twice  daily  in  3>|2 — 4  tars.  (4  fr.  15  c.)  \  to  Brunnen 
twice  daily  in  4>|2  hrs.  (4  fr.  85  c).  Vo  diligence  from  Rapperschwyl. 
Railway  from  Wadenswyl  to  Einsiedeln  in  course  of  construction. 

The  high-road  from  Richterswyl  (and  from  Wadenswyl')  to 
Einsiedeln  ascends  gradually  from  the  lake  of  Zurich  (the  direct 
path  from  Richterswyl,  following  the  telegraph  posts,  saves 
Y4  hr.),  passing  WolleraUj  and  commanding  beautiful  retrospec- 
tive views  of  the  lake,  and  unites  with  the  road  from  Pfaffikon 
(Uznach,  Lachen,  and  Rapperschwyl)  at  (31/2  ^0  Schindellegi 
(2484')  (Hirsch)^  where  the  load  suddenly  enters  the  valley  of 
the  Sihl  (p.  48),  which  it  crosses  by  a  covered  wooden  bridge. 
The  luxuriant  fertility  of  the  district  through  which  the  roads 
wind  upwards  from  the  lake  disappears,  and  the  scenery  assumes 
a  more  Alpine  character.  (Pedestrians  follow  the  old  road,  as 
the  new  route  makes  a  long  curve  to  the  1.).  The  Mythen 
(p.  58)  now  become  visible.  Farther  on,  at  (2  M.)  Biber- 
bmck  (2729')  (Post),  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  diligence 
routes  from  Wadenswyl ,  Richterswyl ,  and  Uznach  -  Lachen 
to  Einsiedeln,  and  those  to  Schwyz  and  Brunnen  (four  times 
a  day  at  least),  where  the  Biber  joins  the  Alpbach,  the  road 
to  Einsiedeln  diverges  towards  the  S.E.,  and  the  entire 
chain  of  the  mountains  of  Glarus  with  their  frowning  peaks, 
terminating    on    the    1.    in    the   pyramidal    Kopfenstock   (6240'), 


EINSIEDELN.  72.  RouU.     297 

forms  the  background  of  the  Alpine  view.  The  road  from  Biber- 
bruck  to  (23/4  M.)  Einsiedeln  ascends  the  Alpthal.  At  the 
point  where  it  reaches  the  last  eminence  before  Einsiedeln,  a 
beautiful  view  is  obtained  of  the  Alpthal ,  the  extensive  build- 
ings of  the  Abbey,  with  the  church  in  the  centre,  surrounded 
by  a  group  of  houses,  with  the  imposing  Mythen  terminating  the 
valley. 

From  Rapperschwyl  to  Einsiedeln  .  The  long  Bridge  of 
Rapperschwyl  forms  the  boundary  between  the  cantons  of  St.  Gallen 
and  Schwyz.  On  a  small  promontory  of  the  S.  bank  stands  the 
village  of  Hurden ;  at  Pfaffikon  (1368'),  I'/g  M.  beyond  it, 
the  road  crosses  the  high  road  from  Lachen  to  Einsiedeln,  which 
leads  past  the  prettily  situated  Feusisherg  to  (4  M.)  Schindellegi 
(see  above)  and  ascends  in  windings  (passing  the  pension  Lugete 
on  the  r.,  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  lake),  with  beautiful 
retrospects,  to  the  (4  M.)  pass  of  the  Etzel  (3254')  (•inn). 
(Travellers  from  Einsiedeln  should  follow  the  road  to  the  1.,  300 
paces  below  the  inn.) 

The  Hoch-Etzel  (3615'),  the  summit  of  the  Etzel,  i{2  hr.  steep  ascent 
from  the  inn,  is  wooded,  and  commands  no  view,  but  the  ^Schdnboden 
(352^') ,  *Ia  hr.  E.  of  the  inn ,  affords  a  most  beautiful  panorama, 
extending  far  beyond  the  lake ,  and  embracing  the  Limmatthal  as  far 
as  Baden,  the  Allmann  chain  to  the  N.E.,  the  Toggenburg  and  Appen- 
zell  mountains,  the  Speer  and  Schaniserberg  to  the  E.,  the  Sihl- Valley, 
and  the  mountains  of  the  Wagglthal  (p.  42) ,  with  the  Glamisch  and 
Wiggis  rising  above  them ,  to  the  S. ;  to  the  S.W.  the  Euthal  or  Alp- 
thal, with  Einsiedeln ,  the  Mythen  of  Schwyz ,  the  Rufi  and  the  Rigi  *,  to 
the  W.  the  Hohe-Rhonen  (4042') ,  which  derives  its  local  appellation  of 
Dreilanderstein  from  the  stone  on  the  summit  which  marks  the  boundaries 
of  the  three  cantons  of  Zurich,  Zug,  and  Schwyz.  Those  who  wish  to  proceed 
from  the  Schonboden  to  Einsiedeln,  need  not  return  to  the  Etzel,  but  may 
descend  at  once  towards  the  S.W.,  through  several  enclosures  ,  to  Eggy 
visible  below,  where  the  Sihl  is  crossed.  The  traveller  soon  after  reaches 
the  road  which  descends  from  the  Etzel. 

Near  the  Etzel  Inn  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Meinrad ,  the  abode 
of  the  count  of  that  name  (see  below)  about  the  middle  of  the 
9th  cent.  His  repute  for  sanctity  attracted  such  vast  numbers  of 
devotees  to  his  cell,  that  he  was  compelled  to  quit  it,  and  retire 
to  Einsiedeln,  where  he  founded  the  abbey.  The  road  now 
descends  to  the  (1  M.)  Teufelshrueke  (2202')  which  spans  the 
Sihl,  The  celebrated  empiric  and  alfchymist  Paracelsus  (d.  1541 
at  Salzburg)  is  said  to  have  been  born  here.     Then  3^/4  M.  to 

Einiiedeln  (2890')  r*P/'«w,  R.  11/2,  B.  1,  D.  3,  A.  1/2  fr.; 
Einsiedler  Hof,  new;  Drei  Konige;  * Adler ;  St.  CatharinaJ,  Notre- 
Dame-des-Hermites,  Monasterium  Eremitarum.  A  large  proportion 
of  the  785  houses  of  which  the  town  is  composed  (7633  inhab.) 
consists  of  inns  of  various  grades,  which  provide  entertainment 
for  the  vast  numbers  of  pilgrims  who  resort  to  the  abbey  to 
celebrate  the  high  festivals.  The  extensive  Abbey,  re -erected 
1704 — 19  in  the  Italian  style  after  its  destruction  by  lire  (for  the 


298     Route  72.  EINSIEDELN. 

6th  or  7th  time),  rises  high  above  all  the  other  buildings  in  the 
green  vaUey,  which  is  watered  by  the  Alpbach. 

The  Abbey  was  founded  in  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  According  to 
^-adition,  Meinrad^  Count  of  Sulgen  on  the  Danube,  built  a  chapel  on  the 
Etzel  (p.  297) ,  and  afterwards  another  on  the  spot  where  the  Abbey  now 
stands ,  in  honour  of  a  miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin  presented  to  him 
by  Hildegarde ,  Abbess  of  the  church  of  Notre  Dame  at  Zurich.  He  was 
assassinated  in  861 ,  and  his  murderers  were  discovered  by  means  of  two 
ravens  which  the  holy  man  had  tamed,  and  which  hovered  about  the 
assassins  wherever  they  went,  croaking  and  flapping  their  dusky  wings  till 
the  miscreants  reached  Zurich.  The  attention  of  the  populace  was  at- 
tracted by  this  singular  circumstance ,  and  the  result  was  that  the  men 
were  arrested  and  ultimately  executed  at  Zurich.  The  reputation  of  St. 
Meinrad  increased  so  rapidly  after  his  death,  that  a  Benedictine  abbey  was 
founded  on  the  spot  where  his  cell  had  stood.  The  legend  relates  that 
when  the  Bishop  of  Constance  was  about  to  consecrate  the  church ,  Sept. 
14th,  948,  heavenly  voices  announced  to  him  at  midnight  that  the  Saviour 
himself,  surrounded  by  his  angels,  had  already  performed  the  sacred  cere- 
mony. A  bull  of  Pope  Leo  XIII.  confirmed  the  miracle ,  and  accorded 
plenary  indulgences  to  all  who  should  perform  the  pilgrimage  to  ^Our 
Lady  of  the  Hermit8\  The  olTerings  of  the  crowd  of  worshippers  were  a 
source  of  great  wealth  to  the  Abbey.  After  St.  Gall,  it  became  the  richest 
Abbey  in  Switzerland.  The  Emperor  Rudolf  of  Hapsburg  created  its  abbot 
Prince  of  the  Empire  in  1274  \  this  dignitary  lived  in  almost  regal  magni- 
ficence ,  exercising  supreme  authority  over  an  extensive  district.  The 
abbots  were  for  the  most  part  men  of  noble  birth  until  the  16th  cent.  To 
this  day  Einsiedein  is  the  most  considerable  abbey  in  Switzerland,  and  in 
the  Rom.  Cath.  cantons  the  abbot  is  styled  'Prince  of  £insiedeln\  and  is 
invested  with   considerable  power. 

When  the  French  republicans  invaded  the  country  in  1798,  they  seized 
the  greater  portion  of  the  treasures  which,  in  the  course  of  centuries,  had 
been  accumulated  at  Einsiedein,  and  carried  them  ofl'  to  Paris.  The  pious 
fathers  had ,  however ,  rescued  the  sacred  image  of  the  Virgin ,  the  chief 
object  of  their  veneration,  from  the  hands  of  the  spoilers,  and  after  having 
tiken  refuge  for  some  time  in  the  Tyrol ,  returned  with  it  in  18CQ.  Since 
that  time  pilgrimages  to  the  shrine  have  been  resumed.  In  1710  the 
number  of  pilgrims  amounted  to  260,000^  it  now  averages  150,000  annually. 
On  high  festivals  (and  especially  when  the  anniversary  of  the  Festival  of 
Einsiedein  happens  to  fall  on  a  Sunday)  an  immense  crowd  flocks  hither 
from  all  parts  of  Switzerland,  from  Bavaria  and  Swabia,  the  Black  Forest, 
Alsace ,  Lorraine ,  and  even  more  distant  regions.  The  greater  proportion 
belong  to  the  poorer  classes ,  many  of  whom  are  paid  for  their  pious  ser- 
vices by  the  rich,  who  thus  perform  an  act  of  devotion  by  deputy.  With 
the  exception  of  Loreto  in  Italy,  St.  James  of  Compostella  in  Spain ,  and 
Mariazell  in  Styria,  Einsiedein  attracts  more  pilgrims  than  any  other  shrine. 
In  1861  the  Abbey  celebrated  the. 1000th  anniversary  of  its  foundation,  on 
which  occasion  an  enormous  concourse  assembled  to  take  part  in  the 
festival.  The  King  of  Prussia  and  the  Princb  of  Hohensollern  presented 
the  Abbey  with  two  valuable  historical  paintings  by  MUeke  of  Dusseldorf 
on  this  occasion  \  one  represents  St.  Meinrad  (who  is  said  to  have  been  a 
scion  of  the  noble  house  of  Hohenzollern)  preaching  on  the  Etzel  (p.  298) 
in  the  presence  of  a  large  assembly  of  hearers  (many  of  the  heads  are 
portraits  of  members  of  the  Hohenzollern  family)  \  the  other  is  the 
Presentation  of  the  Sacred  Image  by  Hildegarde,  first  Abbess  of  the  Con- 
vent at  Zurich. 

The  Abbey  numbers  60  priests  and  20  brothers  of  the  Benedictine 
oi^der ,  with  a  corresponding  number  of  lay  brethren  for  the  management 
of  the  property  (excellent  breed  of  horses). 

In  the  large  open  space  between  the  houses  and  the  church 
is  a  black  marble  Fountain  with  14  jets,  surmounted  by  an  image 
of  the  Virgin.     According  to  a  legend,  the  Savfour  opce  partook 


EINSIEDELN.  72.  Route.     299 

of  water  from  one  of  these  jets,  but  as  it  is  uncertain  which , 
pilgrims  avoid  the  possibility  of  mistake  by  religiously  drinking 
from  each  in  succession.  Under  the  Arcades,  which  form  a  semi- 
circular approach  to  the  church  on  the  r.  and  I. ,  as  well  as  in 
the  square  itself,  there  are  numerous  stalls,  where  missals,  images 
of  saints,  rosaries,  medals,  crucifixes,  and  similar  articles  are  of- 
fered for  sale.  So  extensive  is  this  traffic  that  at  Benziger's 
Library  no  fewer  than  12  printing  presses,  20  lithographic 
presses ,  60  bookbinders ,  and  150  colourists  are  constantly  em- 
ployed. The  Statues  on  the  r.  and  1.  of  the  entrance  are  those 
of  the  Emperors  Otho  I.  and  Henry  II.,  two  benefactors  of  the 
Abbey. 

The  edifice  is  148  yds.  long,  41  yds.  of  which  are  occupied 
by   the   church   and  its   two    slender    towers,    which   bears   some 

resemblance  to  t^e  church  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Laterano  at  Rome. 
The  Interior  is  gaudily  decorated  with  gilding,  marble,  and  pic- 
tures of  little  value.  In  the  nave,  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the 
building,  stands  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  y  of  black  marble,  the  'Sanc- 
tum Sanctorum\  with  a  grating ,  through  which  ,  illuminated  by  a 
solitary  lamp ,  a  small  Image  of  the  Virgin  and  Child  is  visible,  richly 
attired ,  and  adorned  with  crowns  of  gold  and  precious  stones.  At  the 
back  of  the  chapel  is  the  following  inscription :  '  Deiparae  Virgini 
Casparua  Comes  m  AHaembs  Oallara  et  Vadutz  Perfecit  Anno  Salulis 
MDCXXXIIJ"  In  the  chapel  to  the  r.  a  Crucifix  by  J.  Kraus  \  in  the  choir 
an  Assumption  by  the  same  artist ,  beautifully  restored  by  Deschwanden 
in  1868.  '^Begging  is  prohibited  in  this  church  under  pain  of  corporal 
punishment,'*  is  an  announcement  which  may  be  read  in  many  parts  of  the 
edifice.  Objectionable  as  the  offence  is,  it  is  to  be  hoped  the  punish mei  t 
is  no  longer  inflicted.  The  Treasury ,  once  so  rich  ,  was  despoiled  ly 
the  French  in  1798.  The  Abbey  contains  a  well  arranged  Library  of 
26,000  volumes ,  chiefly  historical ,  a  number  of  MSS. ,  and  a  small  col- 
lection of  natural  history.  —  Connected  with  the  Abbey  are  a  Seminary 
and  a  Lyceum. 

It  is  an  interesting  historical  fact  that  the  Reformer  Zwingli 
was  parish  priest  at  Einsiedeln  from  1515  to  1519;  it  is  re- 
corded that  the  effect  of  his  preaching  was  so  great,  that  in  1517, 
on  the  anniversary  festival ,  the  monks  left  their  cells ,  and  the 
Abbey  was  deserted  for  a  considerable  time. 

The  Herrenherg  (3648'^,  an  eminence  near  the  Abbey,  com- 
mands a  beautiful  view  of  the  neighbourhood. 

73.   From  Einsiedeln  to  Schwyz  and  Brnnnen. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  68. 

16^(2  M.  Diligence  twice  daily  to  (13*|2  M.)  Schwyz  in  2M2f  Brunncn 
in  3  hrs. ;  fare  4  fr.  15  c.    Footpath  to  Schwyz  by  the  Hacken  d^»  hrs. 

Th«  Footpath  from  Einsiedeln  (29520  to  Schwyz,  destitute  of  shadr, 
and  disagreeable  in  bad  weather,  traverses  the  monotonous  Alpthal  (con- 
vent of  Au  on  the  r.),  to  the  village  of  (l^fa  hr.)  Alpthal  (3261'),  wheie 
the  ascent  of  the  Hacken  commences  by  a  rugged  log-path.  After  an 
ascent  of  >|2  hr.,  a  resting-place  is  reached,  whence  the  space  which  intei- 
venes  between  the  Mythen  (p.  58) ,  in  shape  resembling  the  letter  V  ,  is 
distinctly  perceived  \  in  iJ2  hr^  more  the  Inn  on  the  summit  of  the  pass 
(4588')  is  attained,  commanding  a  magnificent  prospect  of  a  portion  of  the 
pal^e  of  I/i|cerne,   the  Lake  of  Lowerz  (p.  57),  the  Bigi,  Steinerberg,   etc. 


300     RouU  73.  SATTEL. 

The  view  from  the  *noch*tuekli  (5105'),  ^k  hr.  higher  up  towards  the  X., 
is  still  finer,  and  embraces  the  town  ana  the  N.  portion  of  the  Lake  of 
Zurich.  The  rugged  and  precipitous  descent  to  (1  hr.)  Schwyz  is  extre- 
mely disagreeable  in  wet  weather. 

The  High  Road  returns  towards  the  N.W,  to 

23/4  M.  Biberbrnck  (2729',  p.  296),  whence  it  turns  towards 
the  S.W.  to  (I72  M.)  Aitmattj  a  village  consisting  of  a  few  poor 
habitations  occupied  by  weavers,  and  situated  on  a  large  expanse 
of  turf,  from  which  a  steep  and  stony  path  runs  direct' to  (1  hr.) 
Einsiedeln  across  the  elevated  plain  of  the  KaUenstrick  (3455Q. 

At  Bothenthnrm  (30410  (^Ochs,  R.  1 ,  B.  1 ,  D.  2V2  frj, 
3  M.  from  Altmatt,  the  Landsgemeinde  assembled  biennially 
down  to  1848.  The  village  derives  its  name  from  a  red  tower, 
belonging  to  fortifications  (Letze)  extending  as  far  as  Arth,  erected 
by  the  Schwyzers  to  protect  their  N.W.  boundary  against  the  in- 
cursions of  their  neighbours. 

The  long  back  of  the  Rigi,  with  the  inn  on  the  Kulm  at 
the  N.  end,  is  now  visible.  The  road  descends  in  numerous 
zigzags ;  far  below  in  the  gorge  flows  the  8teinen-Aa.    The  valley, 

now  becomes  more  interesting. 

3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Bothenthurm  lies  the  small,  but  picturesque  Lake 
of  Egeri  (2382') ,  skirted  on  the  £.  and  N.  sides  by  the  high-road  from 
Sattel  to  Zug  ,  the  S.E.  slope  of  which  is  named  the  Mo^^arten  (4066'). 
Eight  years  after  the  expulsion  of  the  Austrian  governors ,  Leopold  of 
Austria ,  accompanied  by  a  brilliant  array  of  knights,  marched  into  the 
country  for  the  purpose  of  subjugating  the  Forest  Cantons.  The  Swiss, 
however,  gained  a  signal  victory  over  the  adherents  of  Hapsburg  and  their 
allies  at  Morgarten,  Nov.  16th,  1315.  At  the  S.  extremity  of  the  lake,  not 
Or  from  the  houses  ''An  der  Schomen\  stands  a  Chapel,  erected  in 
Uijmory  of  the  great  battle,  of  which  it  contains  a  representation.  Service 
is  celebrated  here  annually  on  the  anniversary  of  the  battle. 

On  the  E.  slope  of  the  Morgarten ,  towanls  Bothenthurm ,  the  Swiss 
under  Alois  Reding  conquered  a  division  of  the  French  army  under 
Schauenburg  ,  2nd  May,  1796.  This  was  the  last  struggle  made  by  the 
Swiss  against  the  power  of  the  French  republic. 

At  Biberegg  (3110'),  to  the  1.  of  the  road,  is  an  old  residence 
of  the  Reding  family.  The  heavy  rains  of  the  summer  of  1851 
caused  an  extensive  landslip  (comp.  p.  57)  not  far  from  Biber- 
egg.    The  village  of 

7  M.  Sattel  (27290  (^Neue  Krone,  on  the  road,  R.  1,  B.  1, 
D.  2^2  ^'- )  -^^^  Krone  J  in  the  village)  stands  higher  than  the 
road.  The  Chapel  of  Morgarten  (see  above)  is  1  M.  distant. 
The  Lake  of  Egeri  sparkles  towards  the  N.  (Diligence  from  Sat- 
tel by  the  Lake  of  Egeri  to  Zug  in  2  hrs. ,  fare  2  fr.)  By  the 
Ecce-Homo  Chapel ,  1^2  ^-  ^«  0^  Sattel,  a  footpath  leads  to 
Goldau  and  Arth  in  2  hrs.  by  the  Steineriberg  and  the  slopes  of 
the  Rossberg,  traversing  the  scene  of  the  landslip,  a  convenient 
route  to  the  Rigi. 

The  *Schlagstras8e  J  as  the  new  road  from  Sattel  to  Schwyz 
is  termed,  crosses  the  8teinen~Aa  and  traverses  the  slopes  of 
the  Engelberg,  the  W.  spur  of  the  Hacken,  commanding  charm- 
ing views  of  the   fertile  valley  of  Steinen ,    the  Lake  of  Lowerz 


MUOTTATHAL.  74.  RouU.     301 

^Ith  the  Schwanau,  the  scene  of  the  Goldau  landslip ,  and  the 
Rigl.  At  (41/2  M.)  Auf  der  Burg,  Schwyz  and  the  Mythen  be- 
come visible.  Near  (21/4  M.)  Schwyz  the  road  unites  with  the 
old  post-road  by  Steinen  (see  below). 

The  Old  Road  leads  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Rossberg^  past  the  Ecce- 
Homo  Chapel  (see  above) ,  with  the  deep  ravine  of  the  Steinen- Aa  Iving 
on  the  1. ,  and  also  commanding  a  fine  view ,  to  (3  M.)  Steinen  (15^'), 
(Rdssli),  a  village  in  a  fertile  district,  surrounded  with  walnut  and  fruit- 
trees.  This  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Swiss  patriot  Werner  Stauffacher 
(p.  72),  on  the  site  of  whose  house  is  a  Chapel  with  rude  frescoes  which 
is  said  to  have  been  erected  in  1400.  The  Chamel  hoitse  dates  from  1111. 
—  A  new  road  leads  from  Steinen  by  Stein enberg  through  the  scene  of 
the  Goldau  landslip  to  (6*|4  M.)  Ober-Arth  (p.  49);  another  round  the  K. 
end  of  the  Lake  of  Lowerz  to  Lower z  (p.  57). 

The  old  post-road  crosses  the  Steinen-Aa  and  unites  at  (li|2  M.)  See- 
wen^  which  lies  to  the  r.,  with  the  road  from  Arth  along  the  S.  bank  of 
the  Lake  of  Lowerz  to  Schwyz  (p.  58),  which  is  reached  I'ja  M.  farther. 

From  Schwys  (1686')  to  (3  M.)  Brnnnen,  see  p.  58. 

74.    From  Schwyz  to  Glaras  by  the  Pragel. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  68,  S92. 

11  hrs.  Diligence  from  Schwyz  to  (8  M.)  Muottathal  by  a  new  road 
twice  daily  in  I'ja  hr.  —  From  Muottathal  over  the  Pragel  to  (5  hrs.)  Vor- 
auen,  a  bridle  path  \  guide  necessary  early  and  late  in  the  season  when 
the  pass  is  covered  with  snow ,  and  desirable  even  in  summer  (5  fr. ; 
Franz  Dom.  Hediger  and  Jacob  Blaser  of  Muottathal  are  recommended). 
Carriage-road  from  Vorauen  to  (9  M.)  Glarus.  —  The  most  attractive  parts 
of  the  "route  are  from  Schwyz  to  (9  M.)  Muottathal ,  and  from  Vorauen  to 
(9  M.)  Glarus,  both  very  picturesque.  The  passage  of  the  Pragel  is  fati- 
guing, stony,  and  marshy  at  places.  No  inn  between  Muottathal  and 
Bichisau. 

The  new  road  leads  from  Schwyz  (p.  58)  towards  the  angle 
of  the  Gibel ,  the  base  of  which  is  skirted  by  the  Muotta ,  and 
then  enters  the  valley  of  the  latter.  On  the  opposite  side  lies 
Ober-Schonenbuch,  as  far  as  which  Suwarow  was  driven  back  by 
the  French  in  1799.  The  road  leads  at  a  considerable  height 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  narrow  valley,  which  expands  farther  on, 
to  (6V2  M.)  Sied  (Inn).  To  the  1.  is  the  waterfall  of  the 
Qstubt-Bachy  which  at  first  descends  perpendicularly,  and  then 
glides  over  a  bare  rock.  (8/4  M.)  Bridge  over  the  Muotta. 
.Then  (21/4  M.) 

Muottathal  (20470  ^JJi^sch,  moderate),  the  capital  of  the 
valley,  9  M.  from  Schwyz,  with  the  Franciscan  Nunnery  of  St.  Jo- 
seph, founded  in  1280,  in  which  Suwarow  established  his  head- 
quarters in  1799.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  waterfalls,  the 
finest  of  which  is  the  Kesseltobel. 

From  Muottathal  over  the  Kinzig-FaB«  (6791')  to  Altorf  9  hrs. ,  a  fa- 
tiguing route  (guide  necessary).  After  following  the  Pragel  route  for  »|4  hr., 
diverge  by  a  path  to  the  r.,  cross  the  Muotta,  and  ascend  the  Hnrithal, 
passing  the  chalets  of  Lipplisbilhl  and  Wdngi ,  to  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
which  lies  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Faulen  (8149^).  An  eminence  i|4  hr.  to  the 
S.  commands  a  striking  *view  of  the  Bernese  Alps.  The  path  then  de- 
scends rapidly  into  the  Schdchenthal  (p.  296),  through  which  it  leads  to 
BUrglen  and  Altorf  (p.  76).    The  Kinzig  Pass  is  famous  in  military  historic 


30^     Route  U,  t>HAai^L. 

for  the  masterly  retr«at  of  the  Russian  general  SuWarow,  who,  wh^n  cut 
off  from  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  by  the  French  in  September,  1799,  marched 
with  his  army  by  this  pass  into  the  Huottathal ,  thence  over  the  Pragel 
to  Glarus,  and  finally  over  the  Panixer  Paas  to  Coire.  —  From  Huottathal 
through  the  Bisithal  to  the  Baths  of  Stachelberg  (p.  293)  10  hrs. ,  a  very 
rough  route,  requiring  a  guide. 

From  Muottathal  the  path  leads  in  1/2  ^^-  ^  ^^^  foot  of  the 
Staldon,  and  then  ascends  a  toilsome  and  stony  slope  lor  1  hr. 
to  a  group  of  houses  {fine  retrospect  of  the  Muottathal);  1/4  ^'• 
farther,  it  turns  to  the  1.  across  the  StorzU  by  the  KLosterberg 
Bridge,  then  ascends  rapidly  to  the  r.  to  two  houses;  35  min., 
the  withered  trunk  of  a  large  flr-tree  is  passed;  5  min. ,  by  a 
gate,  descend  to  the  r.,  and  cross  the  brook  by  a  wooden  bridge; 
10  min.,  a  cross;  5  min.,  a  cattle-shed  in  a  picturesque,  green 
valley  is  passed ;  then,  Y4  hr. ,  the  Senvehrunnen ,  a  stream  of 
delicious  water;  5  min.,  house  of  refuge;  5  min.,  a  cross. 
Finally  an  almost  level  walk  to  the  (25  min. J  chalets  on  the  Pragel 
(^5062');  marshy  soil  and  no  view. 

The  path ,  at  first  steep  and  stony ,  then  descends  to  the 
(3/4  hr.)  chalets  of  the  Schwellau  (4314') ,  where  it  turns  to  the 
r. ;  by  a  (^4  hr.)  cattle-shed  turn  to  the  r.  towards  a  large  pine, 
where  the  Klonthal  and  lake  become  visible;  ^2  h^*  Bichissn 
(3510'),  a  rich  green  pasture  with  fine  groups  of  trees  and  a 
whey-cure  establishment  (moderate).  The  path  here  leads  through 
an  enclosure  to  the  1.  and  round  the  valley,  slightly  ascending; 
then  straight  on,  not  to  the  r. ,  occasionally  on  a  wooden  path- 
way; afterwards  across  a  pleasant  pasture,  commanding  a  mag' 
niticeut  view  of  the  beautifully  articulated  Glarnisch  the  whole 
way,  and  finally  down  to  (1  hr.)  Vorauen  (2716'),  beautifully 
situated  in  the  Klonthal  {^Kurhaus  Vorauen ,  new,  well  spoken 
of;  *Clau8  Aehli;  Weber;  guides  to  the  Glarnisch  may  be  en- 
gaged here).  [From  Vorauen  to  the  Pragel,  a  meadow  is  tra- 
versed, and  the  carriage-road  quitted  by  a  path  to  the  r.  through 
the  forest,  where  the  bridle-path  to  Richisau  is  soon  reached. 
Beyond  Richisau  pass  through  two  gates,  then  cross  the  meadow 
in  a  straight  direction  towards  the  pointed  green  hill  on  which 
the  path  is  seen  winding  upwards.] 

From  Vorauen  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Wiggia  -  Chain  (p.  292)  may 
best  be  ascended.  These  are  the  8eheye  or  the  Jfochscfteyen  (7418',  route 
across  the  Lower  and  Upper  Langenegg  Alp ,  3<|2  hrs. ,  where  the  night 
may  be  passed  in  case  of  necessity,  in  all  5  hrs.),  and  the  Rautispitz  (74ti3')i 
a  double-peaked  mountain  with  a  sharp  ridge,  easily  ascended  from  Glarus. 
(The  Arve,  or  *  Alpine  cedar",  is  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Ober-Seey  a 
lake  situated  to  the  N.)  Beautiful  view,  especially  towards  the  K.  and  E., 
and  to  the  S.,  of  the  Ol&rniMh,  a  mountain  surpassed  by  none  in  Switzer- 
land in  symmetry  of  proportion.  From  the  Vrenetug&rtli^  or  Miitel  Oldr- 
nisch  (95S4'J,  its  £.  extremity,  it  extends  towards  the  W.  and  S.W.  in  two 
ridges,  which  enclose  a  vast  basin  filled  with  snow  and  ice.  The  N.  rami- 
fication above  which  rises  the  Ruehen-Qldmisch  (96570,  descends  precipi- 
tously into  the  Klonthal  (see  below) ,  while  the  S.  ridge  with  its  snowy 
crest  extends  like  a  wall  to  the  remarkably  formed,  perpendicular  preci- 
pice of  the  Bac/iistocl\  or  HinUr-QldruucU  (.l&i4'),  the  highest  point  of  the 


ICLONTMAL.  74.  RouU.     303 

Olarniach  group.  —  The  Ruclien  -  Glarnisch  may  be  ascended  in  6  hrs. 
from  the  Jiossmatt  near  Vorauen,  presenting  no  8eriuus  difticulty  to  prac- 
tised climbers.  There  is  a  refuge-hut  in  the  Steinthali,  about  haltway. 
Imposing  view  from  the  top. 

The  beautiful  *S15athal  is  a  narrow,  thinly  peopled  valley, 
with  meadows  of  the  freshest  green,  carpeted  with  wild -flowers 
until  late  in  the  autumn.  To  the  S.  rise  the  almost  perpen- 
dicular precipices  of  the  Glarnisch  (see  above).  The  pale  green 
Ktonthaler  See  (2638'),  a  lake  21/4  M.  long,  and  1/3  M.  wide, 
enhances  the  beauty  of  the  valley ,  reflecting  in  calm  weather 
the  minutest  furrow  on  the  side  of  the  huge  Glarnisch.  (Boat 
down  the  lake  in  50  min.,  1 — 10  persons  I1/2  ^r*)  The  rocks  of 
the  Glarnisch,  near  a  waterfall  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  lake,  bear 
an  inscription  to  the  memory  of  the  poet  Salomon  Oeisner 
(d.  1787),  who  frequently  visited  this  spot.  ^Seeruii\  a  smaU 
inn  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake. 

Below  the  lake  the  valley  narrows  to  a  gorge,  through  which 
the  Lontschj  the  outflow  of  the  lake,  rushes  impetuously,  forming 
a  series  of  small  cascades  with  grand  rocky  environs  down  to 
its  confluence  with  the  Linth,  below  Nettstall.  To  the  I.  rise 
the  huge  perpendicular  clifls  of  the  Wiggis  chain. 

The  narrow,  road  gradually  descends  through  the  wooded  gorge, 
and  divides  at  a  finger-post,  '6  M.  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
lake.  The  1.  branch  leads  to  NeitstaU^  the  r.  to  (3/4  M.)  Rie- 
dern  and  (II/2  M.)  Olanu  (p.  292).  During  the  descent  the 
traveller  enjoys  a  fine  view  of  the  opposite  mountains,  the  Fron- 
alp-Stockj  the  Schildy  and  the  Freiberge  (between  the  Linth  and 
Sernf  valleys). 

75.    From  Glarns  to  Coire  through  the  Sernf-Thal. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  232. 

16 — 18  hrs.  Diligence  between  Glarua  and  Schwanden  5  times  daily 
in  40  min.  (p.  291),  between  Schwanden  and  Elm  twice  daily  in  2'|2  hrs.  -^ 
The  passage  of  the  Segues  or  Panixer  Pass  from  Elm  to  Flims  (8 — 10  hr.s.) 
is  difficult  and  should  not  be  undertaken  except  with  an  experienced 
guide  (see  p.  '2,'S).  Both  routes  traverse  lonely  valleys ,  seldom  command- 
ing a  view.  —  From  Flims  to  Coire  Diligence  twice  daily  in  2»|4  hrs.  ^ 
from  Flims  to  Beiclienau  is  a  pleasant  walk,  but  thence  to  Coire  the 
traveller  should  drive  (diligence  4  times  daily). 

At  Schwanden  (p.  2^2),  88/4  M.  from  Glarus,  the  Linth  Valley 
divides  into  two  branches;  that  to  1.  is  the  Sernf-Thal,  or  Klein- 
Thai,  through  which  an  excellent  road  runs.  Half-way  up  the 
valley  is  Engi  (2540')  (Sonne),  the  principal  village,  with  copper- 
mines,  and  a  picturesque  waterfall  near  it.  A  fine  view  of  the 
Glarnisch  is  obtained  8/4  M.  farther.  Near  (1  M.)  Matt  (2710'), 
the  second  village,  a  footpath  leads  to  the  N.K.  in  7  hrs.  to 
Mels  and  Sargans  (p.  47),  by  the  Krauchthal^  the  Rieseiengrat 
(72010,  the  Hirtenthal,  and  the    Weisstannenthal. 

The  slate  -  quarries  of  i\i&  PLattenherg,  opposite  Matt,    on  the 


304     Route  75.  PANIXER  PASS. 

1.  bank  of  the  Sernf,  are  celebrated  for  the  beautiful  specimens 
of  fossil  fish  frequently  found  in  them.  The  lower  part  of  the 
valley  is  very  unhealthy,  and  appears  to  engender  cretinism.  The 
inhabitants    of  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  are  .an  athletic  race. 

Elm  (32170  (V.  Elmer;  guides  see  p.  293),  12  M.  from 
Schwanden,  is  the  highest  village  in  the  valley.  A  difficult  path 
leads  hence  to  the  E.  by  the  Foo-Pass,  or  Ramin-Paas  (7392'), 
to  the  (10  hrs.)  charming  WeisstannenihaLy  Mels,  and  Sargans 
(see  p.  47)  (from  Elm  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  4^2  hrs.).  The 
ontse  dangerous  route  to  Pfaffers  over  the  Sardona  Glacier  and 
through  the  Kalfeuser-Thal  (p.  47)  has  been  rendered  practicable 
by  the  construction  of  a  path  (from  Elm  to  Vattis  10  hrs.). 

Near  Elm  the  valley  again  divides.  The  shortest  route  to 
Coire  is  over  the  SegneB  or  Films  Pass  (8612').  Above  it,  to 
the  1.  rises  the  Piz  Segnes  or  Tsehingel-Spitz  (10,230'),  whence 
the  two  glaciers  of  Flims,  the  Sengias  Sura  and  the  Sengias  8ut, 
descend  into  the  valley.  The  difficult  path  across  the  latter  first 
passes  the  MarUnsloeh ,  an  aperture  in  the  precipice  through 
which  the  sun  shines  on  the  church  below  twice  in  the  year. 
The  path,  very  steep  and  fatiguing,  then  descends  towards  the 
Orisons. 

8  hrs.  Flims,  and  thence  to  (71/2  M.)  Beichenan,  see  p.  305; 
from  Reichenau  to  (6  M.)  Coire,  see  R.  87. 

The  above  route  is  preferable  to  that  over  the  Panizer  Pass 
(Cuolm  da  Pignu)  (7907')  to  Ilanz  (p.  305),  although  the  latter 
is  the  easier.  From  Elm  to  Panix  7  hrs.,  thence  to  Ilanz  2  hrs. ; 
from  Ilanz  to  Coire  2OY4  M.  (see  R.  76).  This  route,  however,  is 
historically  interesting,  as  by  it  the  Russians  effected  their  cele- 
brated retreat  of  5th— 10th  Oct.,  1799  (comp.  p.  302).  The 
path  ascends  the  1.  bank  of  the  Sernf,  crossing  several  torrents 
which  descend  from  the  Kdrpfstock  (9180')  on  the  r.,  and  passes 
the  chalets  of  the  dreary  Jdizalp  (Im  Loch,  4822';  Ober-Staffel, 
5589').  It  then  ascends  rapidly  past  the  (r.)  Rinkenkopf  (S^22'^ 
and  over  a  patch  of  snow  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  (to  the  1. 
a  small  lake).  The  descent  over  the  Meer-Alp  and  the  wild 
Ranasca  Alp  to  Panix  (4334')  (Alix's  Inn)  is  fatiguing. 

76.  From  Coire  to  Andermatt.     Oberalp. 

Comp.  also  Map^  p.  76. 

60  M.  Diligence  (30  fr.  80,  coupe  24  fr.  55c.)  once  daily  in  13<J2hrs., 
starting  from  Coire  (1872)  at  5.  30  a.m.,  arriving  at  Trons  at  11.  45,  where 
1  hr.  halt  for  dinner,  at  Dissentis  at  2. 30,  and  at  Andennatt  at  6.  30  p.m. 
From  Andermatt  to  Coire  at  6  a.m.,  arriving  at  Dissentis  at  10.  30,  at 
Trons  at  12,  where  1  hr.  halt  for  dinner,  and  at  Coire  at  6.  30  p.m. 

One-horse  carr.  from  Coire  to  Reichenau  6,  to  Ilanz  18  fr. ;  from  Ilanz 
to  Reichenau  16  fr.  *,  two-horse  carr.  to  Reichenau  12,  Ilanz  40,  Dissentis 
75,  Andermatt  (or  Hospenthal)  115  fr. 

The  Vorder-Kheinthal  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  valley's  in  Switzer- 
land.   Between  Reichenau  and  Dissentis,  where  there  are  numerous  castles, 


>: 


PS 


m. 


^ 


I 


■'' 


ILANZ.  7(5.  BouU.     305 

it  ia  rctaarkably  picturesque,  especially  when  seen  by  travellers  -  descend^ 
ing  the  valley.  The  new  road,  constructed  chiefly  from  military  con- 
siderations in  order  to  connect  the  St.  Gotthard  route  with  that  of  the 
Furca,  was  completed  in  1864. 

From  Goire  to 

6  M.  Keiohenaa  (1922'),  where  the  Vorder-  and  Hinter-Rheln 
unite,  see  R.  87. 

A  shorter  road  leads  to  Ham  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhine:  (I'f^M.) 
Bonadut  (p.  366),  Versam^  where  the  Sajienbach  or  RtiMuia  is  crossed  by 
a  bridge  W  high,  (3  M.)  Carrera^  (I'js  M.)  Vallendag  (Inn),  all  German 
Protestant  villages ,  ii^lt  M  )  KiUirU ,  where  cretinism  is  frequent ,  and 
(lijs  M.)  Ham. 

At  Versam  the  Safienthal  opens  to  the  S.,  through  which  an  easy 
pass  leads  to  Spliigen  by  the  L5ohli  Pass  or  Safierberg  (8169').  The  upper 
part  of  the  valley,  which  scarcely  merits  a  visit,  contains  the  Camana  Alp, 
the  most  extensive  pasturage  of  the  Grisons. 

The  High  Road  on  the  left  bank,  preferable  to  that  above- 
mentioned  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  ascends  to 
(3/4  M.)  Tamini  (2244'),  Rom.  Tumeiny  where  (especially  from  the 
church)  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  picturesque  Hhdzuns  and 
the  DomUschg  (p.  3o6)  with  its  numerous  villages,  with  the  Pi% 
Curvet  (9761 Q  in  the  background;  to  the  W.  lies  the  Vorder- 
Rhtinthal  with  the  Vniefhom  (9180')  and  the  Pi%  Riein  (9078'). 
At  (21/4  M.)  Trint  (2821')  (Calonder)  rises  the  ruined  casUe  of 
Hohentriru.  At  (^2  ^0  ^^99  the  road  turns  suddenly  to  the  N. 
and  forms  a  wide  curve  round  a  mountain -basin,  at  the  base 
of  the  precipitous  FUmser  Stein  (or  Crap  da  Flem^  8848').  Re- 
freshments at  the  picturesquely  situated  (I72  ^0  TritMer  Miihle 
{MuUnSj  2615').  To  the  r.  several  water  falls  are  perceived,  to 
the  1.,  surrounded  by  meadows  and  pines,  the  small  Cresta  See. 

71/2  M.  Flimi  (3615')  {^Adler,  at  the  lower  end;  Post,  in  the 
middle  of  the  town) ,  which  derives  its  Romanesque  name  Flem 
(^ ad  flumina')  from  the  numerous  torrents  which  descend  from 
the  neighbouring  cliffs ,  is  an  ancient  place  with  several  ruined 
castles.  The  path  (p.  304),  which  leads  to  the  N.  to  the  Segne» 
or  Tschingel  Pass  and  Glarus,  here  ascends  the  Segnes  Valley. 
The  MartinsLoch  (p.  304)  is  also  visible  from  this  point. 

The  road  now  leads  in  a  curve  through  a  wide  basin  towards 
the  Wcddhduser  (H6tel-Pensioh  Segnes ,  frequented  in  summer 
by  families  from  Coire),  near  which  is  the  picturesque  green 
Flimser  See  (3281'),  used  for  bathing  by  rheumatic  patients. 
Beyond  Laax  the  road  descends.  Far  below  lies  Sagens,  con- 
sisting of  two  villages.  The  road  then  descends  the  slope  of  the 
hill  to  Schleuis  (2507')  a  village  with  handsome  old  houses  and 
the  chateau  of  Lowenberg,  formerly  the  property  of  the  family  of 
De  Mont,  and  now  a  Rom.  Oath.  Orphan  Asylum. 

63/4  M.  Uans,  Rom.  OLidn  (2256')  (*Oberatp,  on  the  r.  bank, 
by  the  bridge,  R.  and  B.  2  fr. ;  Lukmanier ;  one-horse 
carr.  to  Dissentis  12 — 15  fr.  and  fee),  mentioned  in  a  document 
of  the  8th  cent,  as  the  'first  town  on  the  Rhine',   built  on  both 

Baubkkr,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  20 


306     RouU  76.  LUGNETZ  VALLEY.  From  Coire 

sides  of  the  river,  was  the  capital  of  the  former  'Grey  League* 
(p.  287).  The  upper  portion  contains  narrow  streets,  and  an- 
cient houses  adorned  with  coats  of  arms.  The  population  (656) 
is  chiefly  Protestant,  the  language  (lerman  and  Romansch;  the 
latter  alone  prevails  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  ,  above  this 
village.  The  situation  of  Ilanz  is  magnificent,  affording  views  of 
the   valley   of  the   Rhine   in   both  directions ,    and   of  the  broad 

Lugnetz  Valley. 

The  views  are  superior  from  the  ancient  Church  of  St.  Martin  (2569'), 
situated  1(4  hr.  to  the  S.,  on  the  1.  slope  of  the  Lugnetz  Valley,  or  from  the 
picturesque  and  still  more  elevated  village  of  Lvvis  (3281').  A  most  mag- 
nificent prospect  of  the  Oberland  of  the  Grisons,  and  especially  of  the  Todi 
chain  to  the  N. ,  and  of  the  Rhine  Valley  down  to  Zizers  (p.  283) ,  is 
commanded  by  the  *Pix  Mnndaun,  or  Mitrdaun;  the  N.  peak  (6775')  is 
also  termed  Piz  Orond.  This  mountain  rises  to  the  S.  W.  of  Ilanz  in 
wooded  slopes,  above  which  extensive  pastures  reach  nearly  to  the  summit. 
The  path  (o>|2  hrs.,  guide  5  fr.)  leads  by  St.  Martin  (see  above),  through  the 
dense  pine  forest  with  which  the  steep  mountain  slope  is  clothed,  to  Luvis  ; 
it  then  ascends  for  a  short  distance  along  the  S.  E.  side  of  the  wood, 
crosses  a  flat  basin  obliquely  towards  the  1.,  and  reaches  the  conspicuous 
(2>|2  hrs.)  Inn.  It  next  proceeds  in  the  same  direction  through  a  depression 
in  the  mountain  to  the  crest,  and  traverses  the  latter  until  (1  hr.)  the 
summit  is  attained.  The  mediaeval  chapel  of  S.  Carlo  remains  on  the  E. 
Those  who  have  leisure  should  descend  by  Peiden  (see  below).  —  Travel- 
lers proceeding  to  Dissentis ,  instead  of  returning  to  Ilanz ,  may  select 
the  beautiful  path  leading  through  the  district  of  Obenaxen^  the  principal 
village  of  which  is  Meyerhof^  whence  Trons  may  be  reached  in  3  hrs. 

The  tiUgnetz  Valley ,  watered  by  the  Olenner ,  18  H.  in  length  (pop. 
Rom.*  Cath.,  of  the  Romansch  tongue),  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Grisons, 
sustained  serious  damage  from  the  inundation  of  1868,  the  villages  situated 
at  the  outlets  of  the  narrow  and  profound  side-valleys  having  been  the 
greatest  sufferers.  A  rough  road  leads  on  the  1.  bank,  past  the  ruin  of 
Kastelberg,  to  the  (1  hr.)  Frauenthor  (3336'),  a  defile  by  which  the  valley 
is  entered.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Glenner,  high  above  the  Rieiner 
Tobel^  lies  the  village  of  Riein^  which  was  seriously  injured  by  a  landslip 
in  1868.  At  {}\a  hr.)  the  chapel  of  81.  Moritz  (3604')  the  road  divides: 
that  to  the  r.  ascends  to  Villa  and  Vrin  (see  below);  that  to  the  1.  de- 
scends to  (ij'i  hr.)  the  small  Baths  of  Peiden  (2690'),  the  clialybeate  spring  of 
which  was  lost  in  consequence  of  the  disasters  of  1868,  but  was  re-dis- 
covered in  1872,  and  {}\i  hr.)  Furth  (2979*)  (Inn),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Vriner  and  VaUer  Rhein^  which  are  separated  by  the  Piz  Aul  (10,249'). 
On  the  opposite  side  lies  the  picturesquely  situated  Oberkastels  (3274'). 
Beyond  this  point  a  bridle-path  leads  through  the  wild  Valaer^  or  St. 
Peter'' s- Thai,  by  8t.  Martin^  Lunschanei^  and  Campo  to  (2>|'2  hrs.)  Vals  am 
Flats  (4094 )  (Albin''s  Jnn),  from  which  a  much  frequented  bridle-path 
leads  through  the  side-valley  to  the  S.E.  by  Vallalsch  (6178')  and  the 
VaUer-Berg  (8225')  to  Nufcnen  or  Hinterrhein  on  the  Bernardino  route  in 
5  hrs.  (see  p.  366).  The  ramification  of  the  valley  (Val  ZavreUa)^  ascend- 
ing to  the  S.W.,  and  watered  by  the  Valser  Rhein,  divides  at  the  hamlet 
of  Zavreila  (5840'),  2'|2  hrs.  above  St.  Peter,  into  the  Lentathal  to  the  W. 
and  the  Kanalthal  to  the  E.,  both  worthy  of  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  their 
fine  mountain  scenery.  Difficult  glacier-passes,  requiring  able  guides,  lead 
from  the  former  valley  over  the  Scaradra  Pass  (9088')  to  Olivone,  and 
from  the  Kanalthal  over  the  Zapportgrat  (9314')  to  Hinterrhein. 

The  road  to  the  r.  at  the  chapel  of  St.  Martin  (see  above)  leads  by 
Contbels^  Villa  (where  the  carriage-road  terminates),  Vigens.,  and  Lumbrein 
to  (4  hrs.)  Vrin  (477(K)  (quarters  at  the  cure's),  the  principal  village  in  the 
Vrinthal  or  Obere  Lugrietzthal^  whence  the  traveller  may  proceed  with  a 
guide  past  the  mouth  of  the  Vaneschathal  and  by  the  hamlet  of  Buzaisch 
and  the  Alp  Disrut  to  the  (3  hrs.)  Pms  JHsrui  (7953'),  on  the  S.  side  of 


to  Andermatt,  TRONS.  76.  RouU.     307 

the  Fiz  TgieUehen  (9377').  The  path  then  descends  to  the  Camtma  Aip^  at 
the  head  of  the  Vol  Somvix  (see  below),  and  again  gradually  ascends,  passing 
the  slopes  of  the  glacier-crowned  Oallinario  (10,387')  on  the  r.,  and  the  Piz 
Cor&i  on  the  1.,  to  the  Oreina  Pass  (7743').  The  route  then  finally  descends 
through  the  wild  Val  Camadra  or  upper  part  of  the  Val  BUgno^  with  the 
Pit  Medel  (10,506)  on  the  r.,  by  Daigra,  Cozzera^  Ohirotie,  and  Campo  to 
(3»|2  hrs.)  Olivone  (p.  311). 

The  road  continues  to  follow  the  1.  bank  of  the  narrow  valley 
of  the  Rhine,  here  termed  PardtLla;  beyond  (IV2  ^0  ^chnaus 
it  crosses  the  Sether  Bach^  and  beyond  (1  M.)  Ruis  the  Panixer- 
Bach  (to  Elm  by  the  Panixer  Pass,  see  R.  75").  On  a  rocky 
eminence  to  the  r.  rise  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  robbers' 
stronghold  of  Jdrgenberg,  or  Georgenberg,  near  the  village  of 
Waltensburg.  Farther  on  the  scenery  is  somewhat  monotonous. 
To  the  r.  rises  the  Piz  Tumbif,  or  BrigeUer  Horn  (10,554'). 
The  stream  is  crossed  near  (41/2  M.)  Tavanasa  (^BOTQ  (Krtut), 
and  again  near  (8^/4  M.)  Zignau  or  Rink&^beTg^  with  its  frag- 
ments of  an  old  castle.  High  up  on  the  N.  slope  lies  Brigels^ 
and  then  Dardin  and  Schlana.  Near  the  Rinkenberg  bridge  are 
observed  the  masses  of  detritus  with  which  the  Zignauer  Bach 
descending  from  the  Zafragia  Ravine  covered  the  valley  during 
the  inundations  of  1868.  The  view  from  the  bridge  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  valley,  embracing  numerous  chalets,  chapels, 
and  ruined  castles,  and  all  the  Alpine  regions,  from  the  most 
laxuriant  vegetation  to  perpetual  snow. 

Near  Trons  the  Chapel  of  St.  Anna  stands  on  the  r.  side  of 
the  road,  on  the  spot  where  in  March,  1424,  the  '•Upper'  or  ^Qrey 
Leagxu  (Obere,  or  Graue  Bund)  was  founded.  The  solemn  oath 
of  the  League  was  subsequently  renewed  at  intervals  of  ten  years 
(for  the  last  time  in  1778).  The  chapel  was  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  this  event.  The  ceiling  of  the  portico  bears  sev- 
eral Latin  texts.  The  frescoes ,  renewed  in  1836 ,  represent  the 
first  institution  of  the  league  (1424)  and  its  last  renewal  (1778). 
At  the  sides  the  history  of  the  confederation  is  recorded  in  dog- 
gerel verse. 

12  M.  Troni  (28200  (Krone;  D.  3  fr. ;  Zum  Tbdi),  where 
diligence-passengers  dine,  is  half-way  between  Goire  and  Ander- 
matt. The  hall  of  the  old  Statthalterei  of  the  abbey  of  Dissentis 
is  adorned  with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  members  of  the  Grey 
League,  and  of  the  magistrates  since  1424. 

The  road  now  passes  the  villages  of  Rabiua  (opposite  to 
it  opens  the  Val  Somvix^  through  which  a  bridle  path  leads  to  the 
Greina  Pass  and  Olivone  in  10 — 12  hrs.,  see  above)  and  Somvix, 
or  Sumvix  C'sumimaia  vicus')  (3458')-  The  latter  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  an  eminence,  as  its  name  intimates;  the  churchyard 
commands  a  fine  view.  The  road  between  this  and  Dissentis  is 
remarkable  for  the  boldness  of  its  construction,  and  for  the  lofty 
wooden  bridge  (74  yds.  long,  165'  high)  over  the  Russeiner  Tobel 
(the  valley  ascending  to  the  Todi,  see  below).    From  the  (^2  M.) 

20* 


308     kouU  U.  DijSSfeNtlS.  Prom  Colre 

Staluaa  Bridge  a  waterfall  is  visible.  Near  Dissentis ,  to  the  I., 
lie  the  ruins  of  the  extensive  chateau  of  Castelhergy  burned  down 
in  1830. 

7V2  M.  DiBMntiB  (3773')  (Disertinum ,  Disiert  =  desert), 
Rom.  Muster  C^Monasterium)  (*H6tel  Condrau  zur  Post,  R.  2, 
L.  and  A.  8/4  fr. ;  opposite  to  it,  *  Hotel  Condrau  zur  Krone, 
both  recently  restored;  H6tel  Berther)  is  a  market-town  with  a 
Benedictine  Abbey,  protected  agaiiist  avalanches  by  a  forest.  Soon 
after  the  foundation  of  the  Abbey  in  the  7th  cent. ,  Christianity 
was  preached  in  the  more  remote  districts  of  the  Orisons.  The 
Abbots,  enriched  by  liberal  endowments,  subsequently  acquired 
great  power  in  Rhsetia.  The  Abbot  Christian  v.  Castelberg .  a 
strenuous  opponent  of  the  Reformation,  was  created  a  prince  of 
the  empire  by  Maximilian  II.  in  1570. 

The  handsome  buildings  of  the  Abbey  are  situated  on  an 
eminence.  The  village  church  dates  from  1712.  Professor  Condrau, 
who  resides  at  the  Krone,  is  the  editor  of  a  Romansch  newspaper, 
published  here. 

At  Dissentis  the  Medelser,  or  Mittel-Rhein,  unites  with  the 
Vorder-Rhein.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  Medelser  Glacier 
and  the  valley  as  far  as  Coire,  from  the  Chapel  of  St.  Acletta 
(containing  a  well  executed  Madonna  of  the  Ital.  school)  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Acletta  Valley,  Y2  ^'-  W.  of  Dissentis,  to  the  r. 
of  the  road  to  Sedrun,  forming  an  appropriate  termination  of  the 
excursion  to  those  who  do  not  proceed  farther. 

The  imposing  pyramid  of  *Pix  Knraun  (9511'),  to  the  S.E.  of  Dissen- 
tis (guide  from  Dissentis  7  fr.),  is  best  ascended  (in  5  hrs.)  on  the  S.W.  side 
(from  Curaglia,  p.  311,  to  which  there  is  a  new  road).  It  commands  a  re- 
markably fine  view,  especiaUy  of  the  Todi  group,  more  striking  than  that 
from  the  Piz  Mundaun  (p.  306). 

From  Dissentis  by  the  Lukmanier  (6289')  to  Olivone,  see  p.  310; 
through  the  Va  I  Piora  to  Airolo,  see  p.  83.  —  A  difficult  path  (12^13  hrs.) 
leads  from  the  above  mentioned  bridge  into  the  Val  Rutsein ,  ascenda  to 
the  Sandalp  Pass  (9210^)  between  the  Lesser  Tddi  or  Crap  <?/aru« Cl0,072') 
on  the  E.,  and  the  Catscharauls  (10,049')  on  the  W.,  and  descends  over  the 
Sand  Qlacier  to  the  Upper  Sandalp.  Thence  to  the  Baths  of  Staehelberg^ 
see  p.  294.  —  From  Sedrun  (see  below)  a  path  leads  by  the  bleak,  rocky 
Strimserthal ,  and  the  fatiguing  Kreuzli  Pass  (TTKy)  to  Amsteg  (p.  77) 
in  8  hrs.  The  pass  is  situated  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Strimserthal  to  the 
1.,  towards  the  W.,  at  the  S.  base  of  the  WeiUnalpstock  (9872').  Ouide 
(2—3  fr.,  at  the  'Krone'  at  Sedrun)  necessary  only  as  far  as  the  point  beyond 
the  pass  where  the  Etzlibach  becomes  visible,  as  it  precipitates  itself  from 
the  Spiellau-See  to  the  W.  The  path  crosses  the  brook  to  the  highest  Alp 
Gulmen  (6322')  and  leads  through  the  EitUihal,  past  the  chalets  of  the  Hintere 
and  Vordere  Etzlialp,  to  Bristen  (p.  77)  and  Amsteg  (comp.  p.  78).  — 
Another  route  to  Amsteg,  which  should  only  be  attempted  by  experienced 
mountaineers,  is  the  Brunni  Pass  (8976'),  which  ascends  the  ^c/«<to<Aa/, 
traverses  the  entire  Brunni  Glacier,  and  descends  to  the  MaderanerthcU  (comp. 
p.  78) ;  12 — 14  hrs.  walk,  guide  necessary. 

The  new  road  to  (20  M.)  Andermatt,  which  lies  at  a  lower 
level  than  the  old  route,  ascends  the  dale  of  2'avetsch,  leaving  the 
YiSLm[et&  Acletta,  Segnas,  and  Momph  Tavetsch{AbSA'^  to  the  r.  From 
the  height,    where   the  road  enters  a  wood,    a   beautiful  view  of 


to  Andermatt  SEDRUN.  .76.  Route.     309 

the  Dissentis  district  is  obtained,  especially  striking  when  ap- 
proached from  Andermatt.  The  valley  now  contracts.  The  road 
traverses  woods  and  meadows,  affording  a  pleasing  prospect  of 
the  infant  Rhine  and  the  lofty,  snow-clad  mountains,  which  are 
now  approached. 

6  M.  Sedrnn  (4587'),  locally  known  as  Tavetsck  (* Krone) ^ 
is  the  principal  village  in  the  Tavetsch  Valley.  The  S.  side 
altar  in  the  church  is  adonied  with  ancient  carving  on  a  gold 
ground.  —  Kreuzli  Pass  to  Amsteg,  see  above. 

From  Sedrun  the  road  leads  through  Camischolas,  SarcunSy 
and  Rueras  or  8.  Qiac'6mo  (•inn  *Zur  Oberalp'),  crosses  the 
brook  descending  from  the  Val  Milar,  and  soon  afterwards,  near 
the  hamlet  of  Dieni ,  that  which  issues  from  the  Val  Giuf  (both 
N.  lateral  valleys).  To  the  1.,  on  a  rocky  eminence  above  a  ra- 
vine ,  stands  part  of  the  ancient  tower  of  Fultmenga ,  once  the 
ancestral  seat  of  the  Pontaningen  family. 

The  so-called  Sommertoeg ^  now  almost  disused,  ascends  a  spur  of 
the  Crigpalt  (10,105'),  passes  above  the  village  of  Grispaiua  which  lies  to 
the  1.,  and  the  chalets  of  Milez  and  SehariniUy  and  ascends  the  richest 
pasture  of  the  district.  The  path  now  skirts  the  verge  of  the  mountain- 
slope,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Tavetsch  and  Rhine  valleys ,  then 
turns  to  the  r.  into  the  bleak  Val  Temu  or  Tiamu^  locally  termed  Val 
Val ,  descends ,  and  crosses  the  Odmmerrhein ,  Rom.  VcUa.  (Travellers 
from  Andermatt,  after  crossing  this  brook,  must  avoid  following  its  course  \ 
the  path  immediately  re-ascends.)  The  path  now  rapidly  ascends  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  valley  to  the  Pati  da  Tiarms  (7067') ,  the  opening 
between  the  Piz  Tiamu  or  Bergli  Stock  (9664')  on  the  N.  and  the  Calmot 
(7598')  on  the  S.,  the  base  of  which  the  high  road  skirts  (see  below).  The 
summit  of  the  pass ,  which  forms  the  boundary  between  the  Orisons 
(Graubiinden)  and  Uri,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Vorder-Rhein  Valley 
as  far  as  the  mountains  of  the  Vorarlberg  (or  ^country  in  front",  i.  e.  to  the 
W.,  'of  the  Arlberg")  and  Reeticon,  the  long  chain  of  the  Alps  of  Glarus, 
the  abrupt  ridges  which  meet  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  at  a  right  angle  to- 
wards the  S.,  and  the  Six  Madun  or  Badus  (9616',  ascent  see  p.  81)  to  the 
S.W.  Descending  to  the  Oberalpsee  the  pedestrian  should  bear  towards  the 
1.  in  order  to  avoid  the  marshy  ground  \  from  Sedrun  to  the  lake,  where 
the  two  paths  unite,  21(2  hrs. 

The  road  remains  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Vorder-Rhein,  and 
passes  the  Chapel  of  St.  Brida,  below  the  above-mentioned 
village  of  Criapausa,  and  the  poor  villages  of  Selva  (5046')  and 
Chiamat,  or  Tschamut  (5380')  (*Zur  Rheinquelle) ,  which  consist 
of  a  few  wooden  huts  and  a  chapel.  Selva  is  so  exposed  to  avalan- 
ches, and  has  suffered  so  frequently,  that  the  inhabitants  petitioned 
the  Council  of  the  Confederation  in  1853  for  permission  to  abandon 
the  place ;  but  as  this  was  not  accorded,  the  village  is  still  inhabited. 
Chiamutis  probably  the  highest  village  in  Europe  where  corn  ripens. 
The  road  crosses  the  Oammerrhein  at  its  influx  into  the  Vorder- 
Rhein,  and  farther  on ,  opposite  the  chalets  of  Aldez  on  the  r. 
bank,  turns  to  the  r.  (N.  W.)  into  the  Val  Surpalix  between 
the  Fix  Nurschallas  (9002')  and  the  Calmot ,  mentioned  above. 
The  Vorder-Rhein  (Aua  da  Toma  or  DarvunJ  descends  in  a  series 
qi  falls  from  the  mountain  to  the  1, 


310     Route  76.  OBBRALP. 

Source  of  the  Vorder-Bhein.  The  Vorder-Rhein  takes  its  rise  in  the 
Toma  See  (7690'),  situated  on  the  N.W.  slope  of  the  Six  Madun  or  Badus 
(see  p.  81).  The  path  to  the  lake  diverges  from  the  road  to  the  1.,  a  little 
above  the  influx  of  the  Gammerrhein  (see  above),  crosses  the  brook,  which 
emerges  from  the  Val  Surpalix ,  near  the  chalets  of  Aldez^  and  ascends  to 
the  chalets  of  Tgietlems.  It  then  ascends  the  hill  to  the  1.,  and  finally  crosses 
the  rocky  barrier  to  the  r.,  beyond  which  lies  the  deep,  green  lake,  bounded 
on  the  S.  and  S.W.  sides  by  precipitous  rocks  and  detritus,  and  on  the 
^.  and  N.W.  by  Alpine  pastures.  The  Badus  (p.  81)  cannot  be  ascended 
immediately  from  the  lake,  the  rocks  being  here  too  precipitous.  The  sum- 
mit may,  however,  be  easily  attained  in  2  hrs.,  if  the  ascent  be  made  on 
the  N.  side.  Guide  necessary.  —  Descent  to  Andermatt  moderately  easy. 

The  road  now  ascends  the  sequestered  Val  Surpalix  in  long 
windings  (which  may  be  avoided  by  short-cuts),  affording  pictu- 
resque views  of  the  Crispalt  and  Berglistock,  and  retrospects  of 
the  Piz  Cavradi,  Piz  del  Uflern,  and  Piz  Ravetsch,  to  the  (4  M.) 
summit  of  the  Past  (6644'),  the  boundary  between  the  Orisons 
and  Lri,  12  M.  from  Dissentis,  where  there  are  extensive  peat- 
diggings.  (The  Sommerweg  mentioned  above  descends  from  the 
W.  slope  of  the  Calmot  on  the  r.)  The  diligence  ascends  from 
Chiamut  to  this  point  in  50  (descent  30)  min. ;  descent  to  Ander- 
matt 1  hr.  10  min.'  (ascent  2  hrs.).  The  road  now  skirts  the  N. 
bank  of  the  sombre  and  narrow  Oberalpsee  (6653' ;  72^*  in  length), 
abounding  in  trout,  the  W.  outlet  of  which  is  regarded  as  one 
of  the  principal  sources  of  the  Reuss.  On  16th  Aug. ,  1799, 
a  sanguinary  conflict  took  place  here  between  the  Austrians  and 
French,  which  resulted  in  the  retreat  of  the  former  to  the  Ori- 
sons. 

The  road  next  traverses  the  nearly  level  Oberalp,  and  passes 
some  chalets  (2  M.  from  the  lake,  4  M.  from  Andermatt),  beyond 
which  a  view  is  disclosed  of  the  entire  Ursernthal,  with  the  Inn 
on  the  Furca  (p.  138)  in  the  background.  The  old  path  to  (1  hr.) 
Andermatt  is  considerably  shorter  than  the  road,  but  is  rugged 
and  precipitous,  and  affords  less  view.  The  road  now  gradually 
descends  by  nine  long  windings  to 

14  M.  Andermatt  (4737')  (*Bellevuey  *8t.  Goithard;  Drei 
Konige),  see  p.  80. 

A  good  pedestrian  will  accomplish  the  ascent  from  Andermatt 
to  the  summit  of  the  pass  (7  M.)  more  expeditiously  than,  the 
diligence. 

77.    From  Dissentis  to  Bellinzona.     Lukmauier. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  301^  76,  858. 

To  Olivone  9  hrs.  by  a  bridle-path  \  from  Olivone  to  Biasea  on  the 
St.  Gotthard  road  by  diligence ,  once  daily  in  3  hrs.,  returning  (asc  nt)  in 
4  hrs.  —  New  road  in  course  of  construction  (completed  in  1872  from  Dis- 
sentis to  Curaglia,  and  from  the  pass  to  Olivone). 

The  LttkmlBier  (6289'),  with  one  exception  (the  Maloja,  5942')  the 
lowest  of  the  Alpine  passes  from  Switzerland  to  Italy,  was  crossed  by 
Pepin  and  Charlemagne  with  their  armies  in  their  campaigns  against  the 
Longobards.  The  Abbots  of  Dissentis,  who  took  this  route  into  their  spe- 
cial favour,  caused  hospices  and  chapels  to  be  erected  by  the  way-tide  for 


LUKMANIER  PASS.  77.  Route.     311 

the  benefit  of  travellers.    The  lower  part  of  the  *Neu>  Road  is  hardly  in- 
ferior in  grandeur  to  the  Via  Mala. 

The  new  road  crosses  the  Vorder-Rhein  and  enters  the  Vat 
Medel,  the  profound  and  wild  ravine  of  the  Mittel-Rhein  (^Momph' 
Medels  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  r.),  and  leads  high  along  its  1. 
side  by  means  of  cuttings  and  tunnels  (11  as  far  as  Curaglia). 
Below  Mutschnengia.  it  crosses  the  Mittel-Rhein  to  (4^2  M.)  C«- 
raglia  (4370')  (tavern),  whence  the  Piz  Muraun  may, be  ascended 
(p.  308).  The  road  then  traverses  a  broader  and  more  attractive 
part  of  the  vaUey  to  (l^/a  M.)  Platta  (45289  i^Inn  at  the  cur^s), 
the  principal  place  in  the  valley,  and  leads  by  Pardi  and  Fuoms 
to  (3  M.)  Bredaggio  or  Perdatsch  (5036')  (tavern).  Below  the 
village  the  Mittel-Rhein  is  precipitated  from  a  rock  into  a  som- 
bre abyss,  150'  in  depth.  The  roar  of  the  fall  serves  as  a  guide 
to  this  spot,  which  is  at  some  distance  from  the  road. 

To  the  S.E.  of  Perdatsch  is  the  entrance  of  the  Criitallinentbal,  the 
pastures  of  which  produce  excellent  cheese.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  water- 
falls ,  especially  in  the  Hollemehlund  ( Vol  Ufiern) ,  its  glaciers,  and  its 
numerous  crystals.  The  valley  is  terminated  by  the  Piz  Cristallina  (10,262'), 
surrounded  by  glaciers ;  the  ascent  is  difficult  and  requires  experienced 
guides. 

The  road  next  leads  past  the  hospices  of  St.  Oion  (St.  John, 

5298')   and   St.  Oall  (5514')   to  (2  hrs.,  from  Dissentis  5  hrs.) 

Sta.  Maria  (6043') ,    the  best  of  the  Ave  hospices,  and  affording 

fair     accommodation.     Its  ancient   name,   ^Sancta  Maria  in  tueo 

magno%  seems  to  have  given  the  name  to  the  mountain  and  pass 

f 'Lukmanier'),  but  all  vestiges  of  wood  have  long  since  disappeared. 

Like  the  other  hospices,  Sta.  Maria  is  provided  with  bells,  which 

are  rung  as  a  guide  to  travellers  in  stormy  weather. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  hospice,  rises  the  Scopi  (10,499')  (^Titchupt!\  i.  e. 
summit  or  crown)  from  the  midst  of  glaciers  \  the  stony  ascent  from  the 
hospice  (4h— 5  hrs.)  is  fatiguing ,  but  unattended  with  danger  \  extensive 
view  of  the  Alps  from  the  summit. 

The  path  ascending  gradually  to  the  r. ,  and  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  peaks  of  St.  Gotthard,  leads  over  the  Uomo  Pass 
and  through  the  Val  Piora  to  Airolo  in  6  hrs,  (p.  83).  The 
gentle  elevation  to  the  1.  is  the  Lukmanier  Fast  (6289'),  where 
a  cross  indicates  the  boundary  between  the  cantons  of  the  Gri- 
sons  and  Ticino. 

The  road  now  descends  the  Zura  VaUey;  (Y2  hr-)  Hospice 
of  Casaccia  (5968'),  more  moderate  than  that  of  Sta.  Maria, 
(^  bra.)  Hospice  of  Camperio  (4029'),  both  founded  by  S.  Carlo 
Borromeo;  (1  hr.)  Olivone  (2929')  (*SUffano  BoUa),  the  highest 
village  in  the  Val  Blegno.  The  last  part  of  the  route  tra- 
verses a  forest,  greatly  thinned  by  clearings.  (Bridle-path  to 
Vrin,  see  p.  307.)  From  Olivone  the  road  descends  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Brenno.  Scenery  picturesque,  occasional  waterfalls, 
tolerable  inns.  The  road  passes  the  mineral  spring  of  (6  M.) 
Acqua  Rossa  (1738'),   and    (IY2  M.)   Dongio   (Inn,    carriages). 


312     RouU  78.  PRATTIGAU. 

The  entire  valley  is  inhabited  by  chestnut-roasters  and  chocolate- 
vendors,  who  travel  with  their  wares  to  all  parts  of  Europe.     At 

14  M.  Biasca  (p.  85)  the  Blegno  Valley  descends  to  the 
Riviera  (Ticino  Valley).     From  Biasca  to 

131/4  M.  BellinBOiia,  see  p.  85. 

78.  From  Landquart  to  Schnls  by  the  Flnela  Pass. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  334. 

58* J2  M.  Diligence  to  Davos-Dorfli  twice  daily  in  7  hrs.  (10  fr.  5,  coup^ 
11  fr.  46  c.)^  to  Schuls  once  daily  in  ISifs  hrs.  (20  fr.  60,  coupo  23  fr. 
45  c).  This  is  the  direct  route  from  the  Rheinthal  (Rorschach  and  Coire) 
to  the  Lower  Engadine. 

The  straight  road  from  stat.  Landquart  (p.  283)  to  the  Prat- 
tigau  crosses  the  high-road  to  Coire  near  the  (3/4  M.)  inn  Zur 
obertn  Zollhrucke  (1739') ,  by  the  bridge  of  that  name  over  the 
Landquart.  The  Kaiserruck,  the  extreme  E.  peak  of  the  Seven 
Churflrsten  fp.  43),  stands  boldly  out  to  the  1.  in  the  background. 
Near  the  (IV2  M)  Fflsenbach  inn,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Prattigau, 
the  road  crosses  the  Landquart,  and  then  traverses  the  Kins,  a 
narrow  gorge,  ^/^  M.  long,  and  unsafe  in  winter.  On  the  lofty 
and  prominent  perpendicular  rock  are  a  few  fragments  of  the 
ruined  castle  of  Fragstein  (Ferporta),  which  formerly  comman> 
ded  the  mouth  of  the  gorge.  In  1799  the  French  were  compelled 
to  make  a  detour  in  order  to  make  themselves  masters  of  this 
defile,    which   was   bravely   defended   by  natives  of  the  Grisons. 

The  Pr&ttig&n  (Pratigovia^  meado w- valley ;  Rom.  Vol  Partem)  is  a 
fertile  and  generally  narrow  valley ,  which  yields  abundance  of  fruit.  At 
its  mouth,  and  in  some  other  places,  it  is  covered  with  a  deposit  of  loose 
stones  brought  down  by  the  Lan^uart.  Among  the  mountains  which 
enclose  it  are  several  snuw-peaks.  In  its  scattered  habitations  it  somewhat 
resembles  the  Canton  of  Appcnzell ,  but  its  climate  is  milder  and  its  soil 
more  fertile.  The  pasturage  is  excellent,  and  the  breed  of  cattle  held  in  high 
repute.  Population  (Prot.)  about  10,00().  German  is  spoken,  but  the  villa- 
ges ,  like'  those  in  the  Tyrol ,  have  almost  all  Romansch  names ,  that 
language  having  been  formerly  spoken  by  the  natives.  To  the  K.  of  the 
valley  rises  the  Rcelicon  chain ,  which  divides  the  Prattigau  from  the 
Vorarlberg  and  Montafuner  Thai  (p.  352).  A  number  of  passes,  named 
'  Thore'  or  gates  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  district,  as  the  Schweizer-Thor, 
the  Drusenthor,  etc.,  traverse  this  chain.  These  are,  however,  becoming 
less  practicable  every  year  from  landslips  and  the  encroachment  of  glaciers. 
Only  three  of  these  passes  areer  now  used  as  a  passage  for  cattle.  Ascent 
of  the  Bcesaplana  (9731'),  the  highest  peak  of  the  Reeticon  chain,  see  p.  352. 

Beyond  the  Klus  the  valley  expands.  The  next  village  is 
PardUla  (1981^). 

Carriage-road  hence  to  (S'js  H.)  Beewis  (2965')  {*Pen*ivn  Sciesaplanq^ 
4 — 5  fr.),  situated  on  the  pastures  half-way  up  the  hill,  frequently  visited 
by  persons  in  search  of  pure  mountain-air.  The  village  was  almost  en- 
tirely burned  down  in  1£S63.  The  poet  Gaudenz  de  Salis-Seewis  (d.  1834) 
is  buried  in  the  churchyard  here. 

Schmitten,  with  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Solavers ,  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  last  Count  of  Toggenburg  (p.  290).  Grftsoh 
(2112')  (*Krone)  possesses  several  handsome  houses  in  the  Ro- 
mansch style  J   adorned  with  paintings  and  balconies.    ThQ  foioi^r 


FIDERIS.  78,  RouU.     31 B 

residence  of  the  Salis-Grusch  family  is  now  a  parsonage  and 
school.  Large  dams  were  constructed  in  1847  and  1848  across 
the  valley,  by  means  of  which  it  is  hoped  that  the  district  de- 
vastated by  the  Landquart  may  again  be  rendered  fit  for  cultivation. 

Schien  (2257')  (Lowe;  Pension  Suter),  2  M.  from  Griisch, 
possesses  a  Seminary  and  Reformatory  for  children.  On  24th 
April,  1622,  the  inhabitants  of  this  village  drove  back  a  body 
of  Austrians,  who  had  taken  up  their  position  in  the  churchyard. 
The  female  portion  of  the  population  showed  great  heroism  on 
this  occasion,  in  memory  of  which  they  have  since  enjoyed  the 
privilege  of  first  receiving  the  sacrament. 

The   road   (8/4  M.)   now   crosses   to  the  1.  bank  of  the  river, 

and  follows  its  course  through  the  narrowing  valley  to  {^^/^  M.) 

JenatE  (24610  (^oat;  Krone)  and  (1  M.)  Fideriier  Au  (^Niggli, 

much   frequented  by   visitors  to   the  baths).      At  the   Village  of 

Fideris  on   an  eminence,    1  M.   from  the   high-road,    stands   a 

monument  to  the  Counsellor  Sehneidety  the  *Hofer*  of  the  Vorarl- 

berg,  erected  by  the  Archduke  John. 

To  the  S.  of  the  village  of  Fideris  (2959')  is  a  large  inn ,  the  property 
of  the  owner  of  the  baths ,  and  several  pensions ,  and  2  H.  beyond  them 
are  the  Baths  of  Fideria  (34640,  situated  in  a  gorge,  3  M.  from  the  high- 
road. The  waters  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  consumption ,  and  resemble 
those  of  St.  Moritz  in  the  Engadine  (p.  327) ,  but  are  less  powerful  (B.  2 
to  3>|2  fr. ,  D.  2  fr.  70  c. ,  pension  41(2  fr.).  From  the  high-road  to  the 
village  of  Fideris  a  carriage-road,  thence  to  the  Baths  a  road  practicable 
for  chars-a- bancs. 

From  Fideriser  Au  the  road  skirts  the  Landquart,  traversing 

a  magnificent  rocky  and  wooded  gorge.     To  the  1. ,   high  above, 

lies  the  hamlet  of  PutZj   with  the  ruined  castle  of  Ccutela^  once 

the   residence   of  the   Austrian  governors,   which   was   destroyed 

by  the  Swiss  in  1622.     From  a   pine- clad   hill  to  the  r.  peeps 

down  the  ruined  castle  of  Straklegg.     The  road  now  crosses  the 

Landquart  by  a  covered  bridge   to   Dalfazaa,   a  group  of  wooden 

houses ,   belonging  to  the  parish  of  iMMtn  higher  up ,   and   the 

pleasant  viUage  of  Kublis    (26970    (*f^rone;     Steinboch).      The 

new  road  begins  to  ascend  near  Kublis.     It  skirts  the  N.  slope 

of  the   mountain ,    and   crosses    several   valleys  with    waterfalls, 

passing   (IVa  M.)   Smm    (3255')  (Rathhaus)   and   (2  M.)   Mez%a 

Selva  (34450,  the  post-station  for  the  opposite  village  of  Semeus. 

KloaUra  (see  below)  is  3  M.  farther.     Beautiful   retrospect  from 

the  last  eminence,  towards  the  W.,  embracing  the  Prattigau,  with 

the   snow -clad  Scesaplana  in   the  background.     The   beautifully 

vaulted  Silvretta  OUieier  terminates  the  valley  on  the  £. ;   to  the 

r.  the  Roggenhom  (95050  and  Oatsehlefer  (87700- 

The  pedestrian  is  recommended  to  leave  the  high  road  beyond  Mezza 
Selva ,  and  follow  a  new  and  skilfully  constructed  road  to  (1  M.)  the 
Baths  of  Bemeus  (3232^) ,  the  sulphureous  waters  of  which  enjoy  a  high 
reputation  in  the  Orisons.  (Charges  moderate;  occasional  visitors  also 
received.)  The  road  from  the  baths  to  (3  M.)  KIobUts  crosses  both  arms 
of  the  Landquart ,  1  M.  from  the  baths ;  a  broad-path ,  traversing  beau- 
Wixkl  pieadows  and  ascending  gradually  by  the  stream ,  is  then  followed. 


314     BouU  78,  KLOSTBRS. 

KlMton  (3953^)  consists  of  four  hamlets,  XJeberm  Baeh,  Dorfti, 

Am  PlatZj   and  Bei  der  Brueke.      The   church  is  at  Am  Platz, 

which   possesses  several   handsome  new   houses  (^HStel  Silvretta 

and  Hirschj   belonging  to  the   same   proprietor,   both   good,    K. 

2 — 3 ,  B.  1 ,  D.  2,  pension  4  fr. ;    carriages  may  be  hired  here ; 

several  other  pensions). 

From  Klotterg  to  the  Lower  Engadine  several  passes  cross  the 
Silvretta  chain,  all  of  which  require  guides  {^Ghr.  Janriy  Chr.  Jegen,  and 
Ant.  SchUgel  are  recommended).  The  easiest  of  these  is  the  Vereina  Pass 
(8  hrs.  from  Klosters  to  Siis  \  guide  12  fr.)-  'I'he  route  ascends  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Landquart,  which  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Sardcuea  and 
Vereina^  lijs  hr.  above  Klosters,  and  here  enters  the  Vereina  Fa<{«y,  .lead- 
ing to  the  chalets  of  the  Stutzalp  (61580,  and  past  the  mouth  of  the  Ver- 
nela  Valley  (see  below)  to  Fremd  Vereina  (SKW^),  S'ja  hrs.  from  Klosters. 
It  then  ascends  to  the  1.  through  the  Baser  Thai  to  the  (2  hrs.)  pass  of 
Val  Torta^  or  Vereina  Pass  (8724'),  and  descends  rapidly  thence  through  the 
Val  Sagliains  to  SUs  (p.  336).  Or,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Suser  Thai,  the 
traveller  may  turn  to  the  r.  to  the  Fless  Pass  (8133')  and  descend  thence 
through  the  Val  Fless  into  the  Susasea  Valley  .^  reaching  the  new  Fluela 
road  (p.  315)  3  M.  above  Siis.  —  A  more  difficult  route  is  by  the  Vemela 
Pass  (11 — 12  hrs.  to  Lavin  \  guide  12  fr.).  The  path  gradually  ascends  the 
Vemela  Valley  (at  the  entrance  to  which  is  the  cavern  of  Baretto  Balma, 
6430'),  to  the  base  of  the  Filler  Oletscher ,  over  which  there  is  a  toilsome 
ascent  of  3  hrs.  more  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  {Fuorcla  Zadrell ,  9131'). 
Then  a  steep  descent  into  the  Val  Lavinuoz^  to  the  highest  Alp  Marangvn, 
and  along  the  base  of  the  precipices  of  the  Piz  Linard  by  Alp  da  Mezz 
and  Alp  da  Doura  to  Lavin  (p.  336).  —  By  the  Silvretta  Pass  (9928')  to 
Guarda  (10  hrs.;  guide  16  fr.),  a  long  glacier  expedition,  but  presenting 
no  serious  difficulty  to  the  experienced.  The  route  ascends  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Landquart  to  Mohbiel  and  Pardenn,  and  through  the  Sardasca  Vallev 
to  the  chalets  of  Sardasca  and  the  (4iJ2  hrs.)  well  built  Silvretta  Clnb-Hut 
on  the  Metjeh-Kopf  (8222') ,  close  to  the  Silvretta  Glacier.  The  beautiful 
glacier  is  then  ascended  to  the  pass,  which  lies  to  the  W.  of  the  Signal- 
horn  (10,521') ;  the  Kleine  Piz  Buin  (10,709')  is  skirted ,  and  the  traveller 
finally  descends  the  steep  Plan  Rai  glacier  and  through  the  Val  Tvoi  to 
Guarda  (p.  337). 

The  high  road  to  Davos  (one-horse  carr.  to  Davos-am-Platz 
in  2^2  11^8.,  see  p.  316;  distance  IOY2  M.)  here  quits  the  Land- 
quart  and  in  long  windings  (which  pedestrians  may  avoid  by 
short  cuts)  ascends  the  Klostersche  8tuts,  for  about  5  M. ,  a 
wooded  mountain  separating  the  Prattigau  from  the  district  of 
Davos.  (21/2  M.)  Unter-Laret  (49549  consists  of  a  group  of 
chalets  in  a  meadow,  with  the  small  Sehwarze  See;  (^/^  M.} 
Oher  Laret;  {^/^  M.)  Hdtel  Davo$  KuUn,  a  new  inn  at  the 
top  of  the  pass  (bSdS'^.  The  road  then  gradually  descends 
through  wood;  (^2  M.)  a  few  chalets  on  the  1.,  then  along  the 
bank  of  the  green  Davoser  See  (5121';  1^4  M.  in  length),  a  lake 
abounding  in  fish,  and  drained  by  the  Davoser  Landwctaaer.  At 
the  S.  extremity  of  the  lake,  1/4  M.  farther,  is  Dayot-Borfli 
(p.  316),  where  diligence  passengers  dine  (table  d'hdte  at  Hotel 
Fluela  4  fr.).     (To  Davos-Platz,  see  p.  316.) 

The  new  Fluela  road  crossesi^  the  Landwasser  (to  the  r.  at 
the  head  of  the  Dischma-Thal  rises  the  beautiful  Piz  Vadred^ 
10,610')   and   ascends  the   sequestered   Fluela- Thai    on    the   r. 


FLUELA  PASS.  76  Route.     315 

side  of  the  brook  of  that  name,  at  first  through  wood.  (4^2  M.) 
Inn  zur  Alpenroae;  l^/a  M.  farther  the  tavern  of  Tschuggen. 
The  upper  part  of  the  ;valley  is  bleak  and  barren ,  bounded  by 
precipitous  mountains  (the  old  bridle-path  cuts  off  the  windings 
of  the  road).  At  the  (5  M.)  summit  of  the  Flueia  Pass  (7884') 
(*Fluda  Hospice)  the  road  passes  between  two  lakes ,  the  first 
of  which,  on  the  r.  contains  green  glacier  water,  the  other  on 
the  1.  clear  spring  water.     On  the  N.  side  of  the  pass  rises  the 

Weisshom  (10,185'),  on  the  S.  side   the  Schwarzhom  (10,338'). 

The  ascent  of  the  *  Schwarshora  (10,338')  (3  hrs. ,  with  guide)  is  a 
most  interesting,  and  not  a  difiicult  excursion.  Descend  the  road  to  the 
E.  for  1  M.,  then  ascend  the  stony  slopes  to  the  r.  to  the  entrance  of  the 
valley  which  descends  from  the  Schwarzhorn  *,  ascend  the  grassy  slopes  on 
the  1.  side,  and  finally  cross  desolate  slopes  covered  with  rocky  debris  to  the 
highest  basin  of  the  valley,  into  which  the  Schwarzhorn  Olacier  falls. 
Cross  the  latter  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  ascend  by  its  steep  crest 
to  the  summit ,  which  commands  an  imposing  panorama.  The  most  con- 
spicuous points  from  S.  to  W.  are  the  Piz  Vadred ,  beyond  which  are  the 
Bernina,  Piz  Dosde,  etc. ;  P.  Kesch,  P.  d'Aela,  Tinzenhorn,  P.  St.  MicheU 
Lenzerhorn ,  Todi ,  Glamisch ,  Sentis  ,  Scesaplana ,  in  the  foreground  the 
Silvretta,  the  Oetzthaler  Ferner,  P.  Lischan,  Pisoc,  Ortler^  then  the  val- 
leys of  Flueia ,  Dischma ,  Davos ,  and  Lower  Engadine  with  Ardetz  and 
the  chateau  of  Tarasp. 

The  road  descends  through  the  rock-strewn  valley  in  windings 
and  crosses  the  Susasea  at  the  stone  hut  of  Chant  Suras.  To 
the  T.  opens  the  dreary  Val  Orialetseh-,  in  the  background  rises 
the  jagged  Piz  Vadred  (p.  314),  with  the  extensive  Orialetsch  Glacier. 
Farther  on  are  the  slopes  of  the  Piz  Murterol  and  Piz  del  Res. 
The  road  crosses  a  torrent  which  is  precipitated  from  the  Val 
Fless  on  the  1.  {^Fless  Pass  to  Klosters,  see  above.)  Fine  re- 
trospect of  the  glacier -girt  Schwarzhorn  (see  above).  Farther 
down  there  are  several  long  windings  (avoided  by  short-cuts). 
The  road  then  crosses  to  the  r.  side  of,  the  valley  and  leads 
through  a  gallery,  beyond  which  Siis,  with  its  ruined  castle  on 
a  larch-clad  hill,  becomes  visible  in  the  valley,  with  the  three- 
peaked  Piz  Mezdi  (p.  336)  rising  above  it. 

6  M.  Sfis  (p.  336) ;  thence  to  Schula,  see  R.  83. 


79.  From  Davos  to  Tiefenkastea. 

24  M.  New  post-road  in  course  of  construction  (completed  in  1872  from 
Davos  to  the  Hofl'nungsau  foundry,  and  from  Schmitten  to  Lenz  and  Tie- 
fenkasten).  The  narrow  and  rough  road  between  Hoffnungsau  and  Schmit- 
ten is  hardly  practicable  for  carriages. 

The  District  of  Davos  (Rom.  davous  a=  behind),  a  lofty  Al- 
pine valley,  about  14  M.  long,  with  2000  inhab.  (25  Rom.  Cath.), 
consists  of  meadows,  with  scattered  dwellings ,  cattle-sheds ,  and 
a  few  corn-fields.  It  is  enclosed  by  wooded  mountains,  and 
watered  by  the  Landwasaer.  The  five  churches  of  the  valley  serve 
as  centres  for  the  different  groups  of  houses  named  Dorfli,  Am 
Platz  (or  St.  Johann  am  Ptot«) ,  Frauenkirch ,   Qlaris ,  and  Mon- 


316     RouU  79.  DAVOS  AM  PLATZ.  From  Davo8 

atein  in  a  lateral  yalley.  Down  to  1848  the  district  formed  one 
of  the  26  sovereign  jurisdictions  of  the  Orisons  (p.  287).  The 
inhabitants  are  said  to  have  been  originally  immigrants  from  the 
Valais,  of  Gothic  race,  who  settled  here  in  the  13th  cent. 

Davos  Ddrfli  (*H6tel  Fluela,  R.  IV2,  B.  1,  D.  2,  A.  V2  ^J*- i 
*H6iel  Seehofj  pension  6  fr.)  is  charmingly  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  Schiahom  (8924^,  opposite  the  mouths  of  the  Fluela  and 
Dischma  valleys,  at  the  head  of  which  is  seen  the  Scaletta  gla- 
cier with  the  Piz  Vadred,  and  the  Schwarzhorn  on  the  1. 

Pleasant  walk  to  the  Davoser  See  {^\a  hr.),  with  promenades  on  its  £. 
bank.  The  WeissAuh  (9262^),  ascent  by  jfeierfio/  in  4  hrs.,  is  an  excellent 
point  of  view  (guide  advisable).  To  the  N.  of  it  rises  the  wild  Schwarzhorn 
(8786'),  ascended  from  Ober-Laret  (see  above)  by  the  bleak  Todienalp  in 
3'|2  hrs.  (guide  necessary). 

IV2  M.  Davos  am  Plats  (piOb^  (Kurhaus,  rebuilt  after  a 
Are  in  1872;  '^Hdtel  Rhatia,  new;  ^Schweizerhof ;  *H6Ul  Stttla; 
Pension  Buol;  Post;  one-horse  carr.  to  Davos-Dorfli  21/24  two- 
horse  5  fr.),  the  capital  of  the  district  and  of  the  ancient  con- 
federacy of  the  ten  jurisdictions,  with  picturesque  houses  scattered 
among  the  meadows,  has  lately  become  a  resort  of  consumptive 
patients,  who  occasionally  spend  the  winter  here.  The  hall  of 
the  handsome  Rathhaus  (*Restaurant  on  the  ground-floor)  contains 
interesting  stained  glass  and  other  curiosities.  —  Pleasant  walk, 
even  for  ladies,  to  the  top  of  the  Schatzberg  (6161'),  3  hrs. 
there  and  back. 

Excursion  to  the  Baths  of  Clavadel^  at  the  entrance  of  the  SertigthcUy 
and  to  the  upper  extremity  of  the  latter.  The  ascent  of  the  Weis^tih 
(5  hrs.),  the  Todienalp^  and  the  Piz  Dvcan  is  recommended  to  mountaineers. 

From  Davos  to  the  Upper  Engadine  the  direct  route  is  by  the 
Scaletta  Pass  (8592^).  From  Davos-Dorfli  follow  the  high  road  to  Davos 
am  Platz  for  a  few  hundred  paces,  then  turn  to  the  1.  into  the  Disckma- 
Thal;  2*|4  hrs.,  inn  Im  Dilrrenboden  (6644'),  beautiful  view  of  the  glacier 
of  the  Piz  Vadred  (10,610')  and  the  Schwarzhorn  (10,338').  (The  ascent 
of  the  latter  ,  4  hrs.  from  the  Diirrenboden  ,  is  precipitous  and  fatiguing  s 
better  from  the  Fluela  Pass^  p.  315.)  The  rough  path  now  leads  in  2  hrs. 
to  the  Pass  (8502') ,  lying  between  the  Kilhalpihalhom  (10,125')  and  the 
Scaletta  Glacier.  A  hut  affords  shelter;  view  limited.  Descent,  often 
precipitous,  but  rendered  interesting  by  waterfalls  and  views  of  the  lateral 
valleys  with  their  glaciers,  to  the  Alp  Fontana  and  through  the  Val 
Sulsanna  to  (3  hrs.)  Suisanna  (poor  inn)  and  ('J4  hr.)  Capella  in  the  Inn- 
thai ;  then  to  (I'l-j  M.)  Scanfs  and  (1>|2  M.)  Zvz  (p.  336).  The  walk  from 
Davos-Dorfli  to  Ziiz  thus  occupies  about  9  hrs.  If  the  night  be  spent  at 
the  poor  inn  of  Diirrenboden  the  pass  may  be  ascended  in  the  cool  of  the 
morning,  and  Poutresina  (p.  330)  reached  the  same  day. 

From  Davos  to  Bergttn  by  a  bridle  path  over  the  Bertig  Pass 
(T'ls  hrs.),  an  interesting  walk  (guide  unnecessary).  About  2  M.  to  the  S. 
of  Davos-Platz  the  road  diverges  from  the  Frauenkirch  road  to  the  1., 
crosses  the  Landwasser ,  enters   the  pretty ,   wooded  Sertigthal ,   and  leads 

Sast  the  small  sulphur  bath  of  Clavadel  and  numerous  scattered  farm- 
ouses  to  (4  M.)  Sertig-Dorjli  (eiOQ'),  With  the  church  of  the  valley.  Above 
the  village  (^linter  den  Ecken')  (4  M.)  the  valley  divides  into  the  Ducan- 
Thal  to  the  r.,  through  which  a  fatiguing  route  leads  over  the  Duean-Pass 
(8766')  to  Filisur,  and  the  Kilhalpthal  to  the  1.,  through  which  the  bridle- 
path now  ascends  to  the  (2>|2  hrs.)  Bertig-Pass  (9062'),  lying  between  the 
Kilhalpihalhom  (see  ahove^  apd  the  Hoch-Ducan  (10,096'),    Fine  view  of  the 


io  'hefenkasien,  WIESEN.  td.  ^ouU.     SlV 

Porehabella  Olacier  and  Pie  Keseh  (11,211')  towards  the  S.  The  path  then 
descends  past  the  Raveischg  Lakes  to  the  Alpine  hamlet  of  Ckiaclavttot 
(6061')  and  through  the  Vol  Tuors  to  (3  hrs.)  Bergiln  (p.  319). 

To  Coir  e  hy  the  Strela.  Paas  (7798')  a  bridle-path,  9—10  hrs.  (carriage- 
road  from  Coire  to  Langwies  in  course  of  construction)  \  guide  unnecessary. 
From  Davos-Platz  the  path  ascends  steeply  to  the  (2i|8  hrs.)  summit  of 
the  pass,  lying  between  the  Schidhom  (8924'),  and  the  Kiip/enfluh  (8668'), 
and  then  descends  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Plestur  by  Schmitten  to  (2  hrs.) 
Langwies  (4518')  (Inn) ,  the  largest  village  in  the  Sehanfigg-  Thai.  To  the 
S.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Arosa-Thaiy  in  which,  3  hrs.  from  Langwies,  lies 
the  picturesque  village  of  Arosa.  The  route  then  leads  high  along  the 
"N.  slopes  of  the  smiling  Schanflgg-Thal ,  traversing  several  deep  ravines, 
by  Peist ,  St.  Peter .  (kuUel ,  Calfreisen  ,  and  Maladers  to  (4>J8  hrs.)  Coire 
(p.  287). 

Below  Davos  are  several  torrents  with  their  broad  tracks  of 
rubble.  The  new  road  follows  the  r.  side  of  the  valley ,  which 
is  sprinkled  with  houses  and  chalets.  In  front  of  the  traveller 
rises  the  tooth-like  Tinsxnhom.  At  (3  M.)  Frauenkirch  (Inn) 
there  is  a  picturesquely  situated  old  church.  To  the  1.  opens 
the  SertigthcUy  containing  the  baths  of  Clavadel  (see  above).  The 
valley  contracts.  The  road  crosses  the  Landwasser  near  the 
(1^2  ^0  Spinerhad,  a  small  sulphur  -  bath ,  prettily  situated 
amidst  pines.  Then  (^/4  M.)  Olaris^  scattered  on  the  meadows  of 
the  r.  bank.  The  road  then  leads  through  the  picturesque, 
wooded  valley,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  stream,  facing  the  Piz  St. 
Michel,  to  the  (2  M.)  foundry  QSchmelzboden')  of  Hoffnungsau, 
which  has  been  disused  since  1847,  where  the  new  road  termi- 
nates. To  the  r.  rise  the  Zuge,  precipitous  pine-clad  slopes 
through  which  a  path  rarely  used  leads  from  Glaris  to  Wiesen. 

Below  the  foundry  the  valley  contracts  to  a  wild  gorge,  through 
the  perpendicular  rocks  of  which  the  new  road  is  being  con- 
structed. The  narrow  old  road  to  Wiesen  crosses  the  Land- 
wasser and  ascends  the  wooded  slopes  in  windings  to  a  con- 
siderable height  on  the  S.  bank ,  where  (3/4  hr.)  a  beautiful 
view  is  obtained  of  the  green  valley,  with  Jenisberg  (5010')  lying 
amidst  sunny  pastures  to  the  1. ,  and  the  village  of  Wiesen  op- 
posite (apparently  quite  near,  but  1  hr.  distant);  in  the  fore- 
ground green  larch-woods ,  in  the  background  the  lofty  Tinzen- 
horn  (10,276');  adjacent  to  it,  to  the  E.,  the  Piz  d'Aela  (10,892'), 
to  the  W.  the  Piz  St.   Michel  (10,371'). 

Wiesen  (4773')  {*PalmV8  Inn;  beds  if  necessary  at  the 
pastor's) ,  a  Prot.  village  with  German  population ,  lies  in  an 
open  and  sunny  situation,  overshadowed  by  the  sharply  defined 
Martirutsch  (9193')  and  Sandhubel  (9075'),  both  of  which  are 
ascended  without  serious  difficulty  and  command  fine  views.  In 
the  valley  below  a  bridge  crosses  the  Landwasser  to  Jenisherg 
(see  above),  situated  high  on  the  8.  bank. 

The  new  road  from  Wiesen  to  (3  M.)  Schmitten  is  not  yet 
completed.  About  1  M.  beyond  Wiesen  it  crosses  the  profound 
IHefentobel   by  a    stone   bridge,    adjoining  which    it    is    carried 


318     Route  80.  BAD  ALVENEU. 

through  the  rooks  by  means  of  a  tunnel.  The  coRspienons  chnreh 
of  Sehmitten,  Romansch  Ferrera  (4345')  (Kreuz;  Krone)  y  situ- 
ated on  a  grassy  hill ,    now   becomes  visible.     Below   the  village 

the  AlhukL  unites  viith  the  Landwasser. 

The  footpaih  to  the  r. ,  below  the  church,  descends  into  the  valley, 
reaching  Filisur  (p.  319)  just  before  the  bridge.  Pedestrians  proceeding 
to  Bergiin  (p.  319)  thus  avoid  the  digression  by  Alveneu ,  and  effect  a  sav- 
ing of  1  hr. 

On  the  road  to  the  village  of  (IV2  M.)  Alveneti  (4345')  (poor 
inn)  a  picturesque  view  is  obtained  towards  the  S.E.  into  the 
upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  AlhuLa^  between  which  and  the 
Landwasser*  rises  the  Stulsergrat  (8389') ;  in  the  background 
rises  the  Albulastock  (Pi«  Uertsch  ^  10,738').  On  the  Albula, 
1180'  below  the  village ,  lies  the  Alveneuer  Bad  (see  below), 
to  which  a  footpath  descends  in  3/^  hr. 

The  new  road  leads  high  along  the  N.  slopes  and  winds 
round  a  vast  basin,  on  the  W.  side  of  which  another  new  road, 
on  which  the  Albula  diligence  (see  below)  now  runs,  descends  into 
the  valley.  Pedestrians  may  descend  by  the  latter  from  Alveneu 
by  Surava  to  Tiefenkasten  in  1  hr. ;  or  they  may  continue  to 
follow  the  post-road  on  the  hill,  and  cross  a  covered  wooden 
bridge  at  the  base  of  the  picturesque  ruined  Castle  of  Beifori^ 
several  storeys  of  which  are  still  standing,  situated  on  an  almost 
inaccessible  rock ,  whence  the  jurisdiction  of  Belfort  has  derived 
its  name.  Then  (3  M.)  Briens,  with  an  ancient  tower,  formerly 
the  property  of  the  De  Porta  family.  At  the  (1  M.)  farm  of 
Vazerol  (p.  321)  the  road  unites  with  the  high  road  from  Coire 
to  Tiefenkasten.  From  this  point  to  (IV2  M.)  Lena,  or  (1  M.) 
Tiefenkasten,  see  R.  81. 

80.  From  Coire  to  Ponte  (and  Samaden)  in  the 
Engadine  by  the  Albula  Pa89. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  334. 

45  M.  Diligence  from  Coire  to  Ponte  twice  daily  in  summer  (once 
by  Brienz,  and  once  by  Tiefenkasten)  in  108(4  hrs. ,  fare  15  fr.  20,  coupe 
it  fr.  35  c.  (to  Samaden  in  ll'jz  hrs. ,  fare  16  fr.  70,  coup^  19  fr.  5  c); 
to  Bergiin,  where  passengers  dine,  in  71J4  hrs.  —  Extra-post  with  two 
horses  from  Coire  to  Tiefenkasten  50  fr.  15  c,  to  Bergiin  77  fr.  90,  to 
Ponte  110  fr.  50  c. 

A  most  interesting  routes  beautiful  mountain-scenery.  The  pass  itself 
is  a  wild  cliaos  of  rocks  and  debris. 

From  Coire  to  (I51/2  M.)  Lens,  see  R.  81.  The  old  post- 
road  leads  hence  by  (2^4  M.)  Tiefenkasten  and  along  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Albula  by  (21/4  M.)  Surava  to  (21/4  M.)  Bad  Alveneu. 
This  excellent  new  road  diverges  to  the  1.  by  the  farm  of  Vazerol 
(see  above),  passes  Brians  (see  above)  and  the  foot  of  the  chateau 
of  Belfort,  and  descending  in  long  windings  into  the  Albulathal 
leads  to  (3  M.)  *Bad  Alveneu  (3166'),  the  sulphur-springs  of 
which  are  in  great  repute   with   the  inhabitants   of  the   Grisons 


ALBULA  PASS.  80.  Route.     319 

(R.  3,  B.  11/4,  L.  and  A.  1  fr. ;  one-horse  can.  to  Bergiin  in 
2  hrs.,  5  fr.).  To  the  1.,  high  above  the  baths,  lies  the  village 
of  Alveneu  (p.  318).  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Albula  a 
picturesque  waterfall  is  formed  by  an  affluent  of  that  river. 

Between  Bad  Alveneu  and  (3  M.)  Filitur  (3474')  (Riach; 
Schmidt)  the  road  crosses  the  Landwasser  of  Davos  (p.  318) ,  and 
beyond  Filisur  the  Albula,  which  it  then  skirts,  traversing  a 
picturesque  rocky  and  wooded  district.  High  above  Filisur  stand 
the  rains  of  the  castle  of  Greifenstein  (3953').  (2^4  M.)  BelLa- 
luna  (3553'),  a  disused  iron-foundry. 

Beyond  the  bridge  the  road  ascends  to  (1^2  M-)  ^^^  *Bergftaer 
Stein>  a  profound  and  narrow  wooded  ravine,  on  the  £.  side  of 
which,  650'  above  the  Albula,  a  road  800  paces  long,  and  4 — 5 
feet  wide,  was  constructed  in  1696  by  blasting  the  rock.  The 
precipice  occasionally  overhangs  the  road,  which  is  protected  by  a 
wall  at  the  side.  During  the  wars  of  1799  and  1800  the  Austrians 
and  French  transported  their  artillery  through  this  ravine.  The 
new  and  broad  post-road  begins  to  ascend  the  hill  considerably 
before  the  old  route  on  the  'Stein',  and  traverses  a  wood;  pedes- 
trians effect  a  considerable  saving  by  following  the  old  road  in  a 
straight  direction.  The  ravine,  the  brook  in  which  is  visible  at 
one  point  only,  expands  into  a  green  valley,  surrounded  by  snow- 
clad  mountains  (to  the  W.  the  Piz  d'Aela  and  Tinzenhom, 
p.  317).  In  this  basin  lies  the  handsome  village  of  (1^2  ^0 
Bergnn  (4557'),  Romansch  Bravuogn  (Hdtel  Piz  Aela ,  pension 
4  fr. ;  *Kreuz;  Sonne).  The  village  possesses  a  handsome  prison- 
tower  and  an  ancient  church. 

Beyond  Bergun  the  road,  which  was  completed  in  1865, 
ascends  gradually,  passing  the  entrance  to  the  Val  Tisch,  to  the 
(2  M.)  Bergiiner  Maiensasse  (chalets).  The  Albula  forms  a  series 
of  picturesque  falls,  the  finest  of  which  is  near  the  (1^2  M.) 
chalets  of  Naz  (5725').  The  road  then  ascends  in  long  wind- 
ings (which  may  be  avoided  by  short  cuts),  past  the  chalets  of 
Freda  and  Palpuogna  (to  the  r.  below  lies  the  pale-green  Lake 
of  PalpuognaX  to  the  (31/2  M.)  *Inn  on  the  Weissensteiny  Rom. 
Crap  Alv  (606O'),  situated  at  the  base  of  the  three  bold  rocky 
peaks  of  Giumels  (9623').  The  road  now  ascends  gradually  in  a 
wide  curve  at  the  base  of  the  Piz  Giumels,  passes  a  few  traces 
of  an  ancient  Roman  road ,  and  enters  the  Teufelsthal ,  a  valley 
strewn  with  fragments  of  rock  brought  down  by  avalanches.  From 
the  Weissenstein  to  the  (3  M.)  cross  on  the  summit  of  the 
Albula  Past  (7589')  a  bleak  and  stony  wilderness  is  traversed. 
^Se  Albula  fosse  cosi  longa  come  Bemina  non  passerebbe  ne  gallo 
ne  gallina'  (*if  the  Albula  Pass  were  as  long  as  the  Bemina, 
neither  cock  nor  hen  would  to  traverse  it')  is  a  popular  saying 
among  the  inhabitants  of  Poschiavo  (p.  343).  The  summits  of 
the  Albulastock  rise  on  both  sides ;  the  Cresta  Mora  (9636'),  the 


320    BouU  31.  CBdRWALDElI^. 

8.  peak,  consists  of  i^ranite,  the  N.,  the  Pit  UerUekj  or  Albuld- 
stock  (10, 738'),  of  limestone. 

Beyond  the  pass ,  which  is  the  watershed  between  the  Rhine 
and  the  Inn ,  the  road  gradually  winds  downwards ,  commanding 
line  views  of  the  distant  Piz  del  Diavel  (10,259'),  of  the  white 
houses  of  Ponte,  of  Madulein  on  the*  mountain  to  the  1.,  and  of 
the  Piz  Languard  to  the  r. 

Fonte  (5548^),  6  M.  from  the  summit  of  the  pass,  see  p.  335. 
Thence  to  Samaden ,  see  p.  334;  to  Martinsbruck  and  Nauders 
by  Schuls,  see  R.  83. 

81.    From  Coire  to  Samaden  by  the  Julier. 

Comp.  Maps^  pp.  334^  360y  334. 

51^  M.  Diligence  in  summer  three  times  daily  in  IS^jg  hrs.,  fare 
18  fr.  90 ,  coup^  21  fr.  50  c.  (twice  by  Churwalden ,  once  by  the  Schyn 
Pass).  —  Extra-poit  with  two  horses  from  Coire  to  Tiefenkasten  50  fr. 
15  c,  to  Samaden  117  fr.  20  c,  to  Pontresina  127  fr.  5  c.,  to  St.  Moritz 
130  fr.  80  c. ;  from  St.  Moritz  or  Silvaplana  to  Samaden  13  fr.  50  c,  to 
Tiefenkasten  73  fr.  15  c,  to  Coire  117  fr.  6  c.—  Two-horse  carriage  from 
Coire  to  St.  Moritz  or  Samaden  120  fr. 

From  the  Steinbock  Hotel  at  Goire  (1935^  the  road  winds 
upwards,  commanding  beautiful  views  of  the  town,  the  valley  of 
the  Rhine,  and  the  Calanda.  (The  windings  of  the  road  are 
avoided  by  a  footpath  which  ascends  through  the  wood  after  the 
fourth  turn.)  The  Schanfigg,  intersected  by  the  deep  channel  of 
the  FUasuff  opens  to  the  £.  High  up,  along  the  N.  side  of  this 
valley,  runs  the  path  to  Davos  mentioned  at  p.  317.  About 
1^2  ^'  ^'0™  Coire  a  finger-post  indicates  the  route  (1.)  to 
the  saline  Baths  of  Paschugg ,  romantically  situated  in  a  gorge 
resembling  the  Via  Mala  (interesting  excursion  of  4^2  ^*  from 
Goire).  The  road  ascends,  following  the  course  of  the  Rabiuaaj 
which  flows  into  the  Plessur  far  below,  near  an  extensive  manu- 
factory; it  then  passes  Malix  (mineral  spring)  and  the  ruined 
castle  of  Strassberg ,  situated  on  the  mountain  of  that  name, 
on  the  summit  of  which  stands  the  boundary-stone  of  the  "three 
Leagues   (comp.  p.  287). 

6V2  M.  Ghurwalden  (39760  (*Krone;  Hdtel  Oengel),  pictu- 
resquely situated  in  a  narrow  valley,  is  frequented  for  the  whey- 
cure  ;  it  possesses  an  ancient  church,  and  the  suppressed  monastery 
of  Aachera. 

Parpan  (4937^  (*Statzerhorn ;  ♦H6tel  Parpan),  21/4  M.  higher, 

is  a  pleasant  Alpine  village  in   an  open  situation.     The  mansion 

of  the  Buol  family  contains  a  number  of  old  family-portraits. 

The  ^Statxer  Horn,  or  Pit  Raschill  (8452'),  now  a  favourite  point  of 
view,  is  the  highest  point  of  the  mountain-ridge  which  separates  the 
valley  of  Churwalden  from  .the  Domleschg  (p.  356).  It  is  ascended  frona 
Parpan  in  3  hrs.  by  the  new  bridle-path,  constructed  by  the  Swiss  Alpine 
Club ;  guide  unnecessary.  Grand  panorama  of  the  valleys  of  Schanfigg, 
Churwalden ,  Oberhalbstein ,  Schams  ,  Domleschg,  and  Vorder-Rhein  (as 
far  as  Ilanz);  of  the  entire  Rsticon  Chain,  Calanda,  Todi,  St.  Ootthard, 


TIEFENKASTEN.  81.  Route.     321 

Piz  Beverin,  Eheinwald  Glacier,  Tambohom,  Bemina,  Albula,  etc.  (Pano- 
rama by  A.  Heim).  Beautiful  pastures  and  rare  plants  on  the  slope  of  the 
naountain.  The  descent  to  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  (and  Thusis)  on  the  Dom- 
leschg  side  is  more  fatiguing,  especially  the  latter  part,  and  longer,  but  can- 
not be  mistaken. 

The  summit  of  the  pass  (5088'}  is  soon  reached ;  letrospectlve 
view  of  the  Calanda.  The  view  in  front  is  also  very  fine, 
embracing  the  mountains  between  Oberhalbstein  and  the  Val 
Nandro,  to  the  r.  the  mountains  above  the  Schyn  Pass  (p.  357), 
to  the  1.  the  beautiful  Lenzer  Horn  (9544Q,  adjoining  which, 
farther  down,  is  the  Piz  St.  Mich^il  (10,371').  The  road  then 
passes  several  small  lakes  and  the  more  considerable  Lake  of  Vatt 
(4898'),  surrounded  by  forest ;  it  then  intersects  the  Lenzer  Htide 
(Rom.  Planeira)^  a  stony  tract,  covered  with  fir-trees  and  brush 
wood,  a  locality  dreaded  during  the  prevalence  of  snow-storms. 
(Pedestrians  proceeding  to  the  Schyn  Pass  quit  the  road  here 
and  turn  to  the  r.) 

9  M.  Lens  (4331'),  Rom.  Lensch  (* Krone  or  Post)^    a   Rom. 

Cath.  village,  was  considered  an  Important   military   point  before 

the  construction   of  the   Splugen   route.     The  Due  de   Rohan  in 

1635  (comp.  p.  335),   and  Lecourbe  in  1799  took  up  a  position 

here  against  the  Austrians. 

The  old  bridle-path  through  the  Schyn  Pats  from  Lenz  to  (3i|2  hrs.) 
Thusis,  now  almost  entirely  superseded  by  the  new  Schynstrasse  (p.  357), 
crosses  the  Heidebach,  the  discharge  of  the  Vatzer  See,  high  above  the 
SoHshrilcke  (p.  3B8),  and  then  leads  below  the  village  of  ObervatZy  which 
consists  of  the  hamlets  of  Zorten^  Lain,  and  Muldain  (fine  view  from  the 
chapel).  It  traverses  pine-forest  at  places,  and  skirts  the  lofty  N.  side 
of  the  Albula  ravine,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  the  new  road  runs  lower 
down.  From  the  W.  end  of  the  pass  it  descends  to  Scharans  and  crosses 
the  Albula  bridge  to  Sils  (p.  367)  and  Thusis  (p.  357). 

The  road  now  descends  in  numerous  windings  to  the  (3  M.) 
Albula,  commanding  a  fine  view  the  whole  way  of  the  Oberhalb- 
stein, and,  lower  down,  of  the  Heinzenberg  beyond  the  Schyn 
Pass  to  the  W. ;  in  the  foreground  is  the  village  of  Alvaschein 
on  an  eminence,  and  beyond  the  Schyn -Pass  the  village  of 
Stiirvis  (p.  358);  below,  to  the  E.  of  Tiefenkasten,  is  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Albula  and  the  Oberhalbstein  arm  of  the  Rhine. 
Near  the  farm  of  Vazerol,  to  the  r.,  below  the  road,  the  three 
Leagues  of  Upper  RhsBtia  took  the  oath  of  eternal  union  in  1471 
(comp.  p.  287).  The  new  Albula  Road  from  this  point  to 
Brienz  and  Bergiin,  see  R.  80.  Pedestrians  should  avail  them- 
selves of  the  footpaths  which  cut  off  the  windings  of  the  road.    At 

2^4  M.  Tiefenkasten)  properly  Tiefenkastel y  Rom.  Chasth 
(i.e.  castle)  (* Hotel- Pension  JulUr,  R.  2,  B.  l*/*  fr. ;  *H6iel 
Albula,  R.  11/2,  B.  IY4,  A.  Y2  f^->  P^^t  and  telegr.  office;  Kreuz), 
the  road  crosses  the  Albula  (2798').  The  village  lies  pictu- 
resquely in  a  deep  valley,  with  its  church  on  an  eminence. 

The  road  again  ascends  rapidly,  and  then  skirts  the  Stein 
(3596'),  a  bold  limestone  cliff.     Far  below  flows  the  Oberhalbstein 

Badbkeb,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  21 


322      Route  81.  MOLINS.  From  Coire 

Rhine.  (In  the  Romaiisch  language  the  word  Rhein  means  a 
flowing  stream ;  OberhcMstein ,  Rom.  8ur  Saas ,  supra  saxum, 
above  the  rock.)  About  41/2  M.  farther  the  Oberhalbsteiner  Thctl, 
a  wide  and  populous  green  valley,  about  6  M.  in  length,  is 
entered.  On  the  road  are  the  villages  of  Burvem  (3901'), 
Conters  (Kreuz ;  Taube),  Schweiningen  (Savognin)^  Tinzen  (Tini" 
zogn,  4229';  Krone,  Stern),  above  which  the  Oberhalbstein 
Rhine  forms  several  picturesque  waterfalls.  At  the  foot  of  the 
broad  slopes  to  the  W.  are  also  several  villages:  Salux  (above 
which  is  the  isolated  pilgrimage-chapel  of  ZitaiC) .  Prdsanz , 
Reams  y  with  a  handsome  castle  of  that  name  (now  used  as  a 
prison)  below  it,  etc.  The  road  (constructed  in  1837 — 40) 
traverses  several  remarkable  valleys  of  circular  form ,  formed 
probably  by  inundations;  in  some  parts  it  bears  a  faint  resem- 
blance to  the  Via  Mala  (p.  358).  The  inhabitants  are  Romansch 
and  Rom.  Cath. ;  in  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  however, 
German  is  commonly  spoken. 

Beyond  Tinzen  the  road  again  ascends  through  a  rocky  defile 
with  several  beautiful  cascades,  and  near  the  village  of  (IV2  M.) 
Roffna  reaches  a  higher  region  of  the  valley,  consisting  of  alluvial 
meadow -land,  beyond  which  it  enters  another  wooded  gorge. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  latter  lies  the  strikingly  picturesque 
village  of 

IIV2  M.  Molins,  Germ.  AfttWcn  (47930  (*Loioc,  ^-  2»  ^'  1| 
D.  2^2?  L-  */2  f'- ;  tlie  diligence  halts  here  for  dinner,  21/2  fi-)* 
The  route  hence  to  Stalla  is  replete  with  interest  for  the  pedes- 
trian ;  it  skirts  the  Oberhalbstein  Rhine,  and  presents  a  succession 
of  rocky  landscapes. 

On  a  beautiful  wooded  eminence,  in  the  middle  of  the  valley, 

between  the  road  and  the  Rhine ,  stands  the  square  watch-tower 

of  the  castle   of  Spludatschj    in  tolerable  preservation,  the   view 

from  which  repays  the  ascent.    Near  (3  M.)  Marmorera  {Marmels, 

5361'),  in  a  grassy  valley,  to  the  r.,  rises  the  picturesque  ruined 

castle  of  that  name,  situated  on  an  eminence,  in  a  rocky  cavity 

half-way  up   the   hill,    but   not  easily   distinguished.     The   next 

villages   are   Stalvedro  (5613'),  Stalla   (5827')  (♦inn),  or   Bivin 

(the  Roman   Bivium,  so  named  because  the  Julier  and  Septimer 

routes  unite  here).     This  small   village   possesses   a   Rom.  Cath. 

and  a  Prot.  church;  it  is  entirely  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains, 

and  the  soil  is  so  barren  that  potatoes  seldom  attain  maturity. 

The  rough  and  anpleasant  bridle-path  over  the  Septimer  (guide  un- 
necessary in  Ane  weather^  to  Casaccia  S'l^  hrs.),  one  of  the  oldest  Alpine 
routes,  traversed  in  ancient  times  by  Roman  and  German  emperors  with 
their  armies,  is  now  little  frequented.  It  diverges  from  the  road  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  village,  to  the  r.,  running  for  some  distance  parallel  with  the 
latter ;  near  (1  hr.)  a  group  of  houses  it  crosses  the  brook,  and  enters  the 
Val  Cavreccia  to  the  r.,  traversing  marshy  meadows  at  places  (Pian  Confer.) 
After  a  moderate  ascent  the  summit  (7582')  of  the  pass  is  reached  in  2  hrs. 
from  Stalla.    An  eminence   to  the  1.,    above   the  pass,  indicated   by  two 


U>  Samaden.  JULIER.  81.  Route.     323 

stones^  commands  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  mountains  beyond  the 
Maloja,  the  Fiz  delta  Margna  (10,354'),  Monte  d'Oro  (10,544'),  etc.  The 
path  on  the  summit  is  level  for  a  short  distance,  passing  a  dilapidated 
hospice,  and  then  descends  rapidly,  principally  by  the  old  paved  military 
road,  towards  the  1.,  the  latter  part  stony  and  precipitous,  to  (l'|4  hr.  from 
the  pass)  Casaccia  (p.  365),  the  highest  village  in  the  Val  Bregaglia.' 

The  road,  completed  in  1827,  now  turns  towards  the  E.,  and 
ascends  the  bleak  and  stony  slopes  of  the  Julier  (Oiulio)  in 
numerous  windings.  The  summit  of  the  pass  (7503 ')  may  be 
reached  on  foot  in  II/2  hr.,  by  avoiding  the  windings;  a  carriage 
takes  2  hrs. ,  descent  barely  1  hr.  Near  the  summit  is  an  inn 
('Berghaus'),  from  the  roof  of  which  icicles  frequently  hang  in 
the  early  part  of  summer.  From  the  end  of  October  to  the  end 
of  May  the  route  is  usually  traversed  by  sledges  only,  although 
the  Julier  is  the  first  clear  of  snow  and  the  least  exposed  to 
avalanches  of  all  the  Alpine  passes. 

On  the  summit  of  the  pass  are  two  round  pillars  of  mica- 
slate,  5'  in  height,  without  inscription,  conjectured  to  be  mile- 
stones,  erected  under  Augustus,  who  constructed  a  military  road 
from  Clavenna  (Cbiavenna)  to  the  Curia  Bhaetorum  (Coire)  over 
the  Maloja  and  the  Julier.  Others  believe  them  to  be  the  re- 
mains of  an  altar  dedicated  to  Jul,  god  of  the  sun,  and  of  Celtic 
origin.  Roman  coins  have  frequently  been  found  in  the  vicinity. 
Near  these  pillars,  to  the  r.,  is  a  small  clear  lake,  which  contains 
trout  notwithstanding  its  great  height. 

In  summer  large  flocks  of  Bergamasque  sheep  are  usually  met 
with  on  the  slopes  and  heights  of  the  Julier,  as  on  all  the  S.  mountains 
of  the  Orisons.  The  shepherds  (pastori)  in  charge  of  them  come  chiefly 
from  the  Seriana  and  Brembana  valleys  and  Ticino  \  they  are  a  rough, 
free-spoken  race,  but  honest  and  trustworthy.  Their  personal  appearance 
is  sufficiently  remarkable ;  they  wear  long  curling  locks,  mantles  of  brown 
or  white  wool,  and  brown  peaked  Calabrian  hats.  Their  food  consists 
solely  of  a  pottage  of  maize-flour  and  water  (polenta)y  and  a  little  cheese. 
They  arrive  in  June  with  their  ilocks  in  a  miserably  lean  condition,  in 
consequence  of  their  long  journey,  and  leave  again  at  the  end  of  August, 
when  their  sheep  present  a  vastly  improved  appearance,  and  are  covered 
with  long  wool,  which  is  readily  purchased  by  the  manufacturers  of 
Bergamo.  It  is  estimated  that  during  the  summer  40,0(X)  sheep  are  thus 
brought  to  graze  on  these  lofty  pastures ;  the  proprietors  pay  1  fr.  per 
head  for  the  right. 

On  the  E.  slope  of  the  Julier ,  1  M.  below  the  summit,  lies 
the  small  Julier  Alp,  on  which  are  two  chalets.  The  road  runs 
between  lofty  precipices  (to  the  1.  the  Piz  Julier  and  Piz  d'Al- 
bana,  to  the  r.  Piz  Pulaschiri).  On  approaching  Silvaplana  and 
the  lake,  a  magnificent  view  is  obtained  of  the  Bernina  snow 
mountains  (p.  330).  The  diligence  descends  to  Silvaplana  in  less 
than  1  hr. 

15  M.  Silvaplana  (5957'),  and  thence  to 

71/2  M.  Samaden  (56000,  see  p.  326. 


21 


324 

82.     The  Upper  Eng^dine  from  the  Maloja  to 

Samaden. 

Pontretina  and  its  Enyironi.    Pis  Langvard. 

From  Maloja  to  Sils  41J2  M.,  Sils  to  Silvaplana  3  M.,  Silvaplana  to 
St.  Moritx  41/2  M.,  St.  Moritz  to  Samaden  3  M.,  St.  Moritz  to  Pontresina, 
passing  by  the  Lake  of  Statz,  4i|2  H.  Carriages  almost  everywhere  to  be 
had.  The  commonest  wine  in  the  Engadine  is  that  of  the  ValUllina 
(p.  343),  half- bottle  70  c.  to  1  fr.  and  upwards  i  other  Italian  wines  and 
Harkgrafler  are  also  consumed ;  beer  generally  good. 

The  Engadine  (^Oeni-Oadina,  Upper  Valley  of  the  Inn),  a 
valley  57  M.  in  length,  and  seldom  more  than  1  M.  in  width, 
extending  from  S.W.  to  N.E.,  is  watered  by  the  Inn.  Its  green 
pastures,  5799'  above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  Sils,  and  3343' 
near  Martinsbruck ,  are  surrounded  by  the  loftiest  mountains  of 
the  Orisons:  to  the  N.W.  the  Engadine  Alps,  to  the  S.E.  the 
Bernina  chain,  the  snow-fields  and  glaciers  of  which  are  among 
the  most  extensive  and  magnificent  in  Switzerland.  The  Upper 
Engadine  between  the  Maloja  and  Samaden,  with  its  numerous 
lakes,  is  the  most  attractive  part  of  the  valley;  the  Lower  Enga- 
dine,   below   Samaden,    is  somewhat    monotonous,    although   also 

very  picturesque  at  places. 

The  climate  of  the  Upper  Engadine  between  Sils  (p.  326)  and  Puntota 
(p.  336)  is  very  inclement,  resembling  that  of  the  N.  of  Sweden  or  Finland. 
The  cultivation  of  corn  is  unknown,  and  tillage  generally  very  uncommon, 
except  at  Maria  and  Pontresina,  where  a  few  small  gardens,  miserable 
potato  fields,  a  few  patches  of  oats,  and  in  very  favourable  seasons  a  little 
rye,  is  all  that  greets  the  eye  of  the  traveller.  In  consequence  of  the  al- 
most entire  want  of  straw,  the  litter  for  the  cattle  in  winter  is  composed 
of  long  coarse  marsh-grass,  moss,  or  dried  pine-cones. 

The  atmosphere  is  so  dry,  that  meat  may  be  preserved  solely  by 
its  influence  from  Cktober  to  May  between  St.  Moritz  and  Soglio  (p.  364), 
and  so  remarkably  Clear,  even  when  the  weather  is  warm,  that  objects  are 
distinctly  visible  at  great  distances.  The  sky  in  the  intensity  of  its  blue  vies 
with  that  of  southern  climes.  The  temperature  rises  in  summer  to  66 — 76° 
Fahr.  in  the  shade,  but  a  fall  of  35 — 40°  within  the  24  hrs.  is  not  unfrequent. 
In  winter  the  thermometer  frequently  falls  to  30°  below  zero.  ^  Nine  months 
winter  and  three  months  cold'  is  the  laconic,  but  somewhat  exaggerated 
account  the  natives  give  of  their  climate.  White  frosts  and  snow  are  by 
no  means  uncommon  in  August. 

One  striking  peculiarity  of  the  mountains  enclosing  this  narrow  valley 
is  the  perfect  silence  which  reigns  among  them.  The  songs  of  birds  and 
the  rustling  of  leaves  are  rarely  heard.  At  first  sight  the  bottom  of  the  valley 
resembles  a  vast  meadow,  in  which  the  eye  in  vain  searches  for  a  tree. 
The  pasturage  is  excellent,  but  is.  seldom  in  the  hands  of  the  inhabitants, 
being  let  by  them  to  the  Bergamasque  shepherds  (p.  323),  or  to  specu- 
lators who  engage  reapers  from  the  Tyrol  or  the  Valtellina  to  collect  the 
hay.  During  the  hay-harvest  about  1000  day-labourers  repair  to  the  valley  ; 
and  it  is  regarded  as  a  fSte  in  which  all  classes  participate.  —  The  barriers 
on  the  bridges  are  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  the  flocks  from  straying, 
but  pedestrians  may  cross  them  at  any  time. 

The  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains  of  the  Upper  Engadine  are  almost 
exclusively  clothed  with  larches  and  beautiful  specimens  of  the  Arve  or 
Alpine  cedar  (pinus  eembra,  ^Siberian  pine'),  a  tree  almost  unknown  in 
the  rest  of  Switzerland.  Its  wood  is  very  light,  white  in  colour,  and  al- 
most indestructible,  very  fine  in  grain  and  extremely  fragrant ;  it  is  much 
used  and  esteemed  for  cabinet  work.    The  kernels  (30  to  40)  of  the  cones 


MALOJA.  82.  RouU.    325 

are  enclosed  in  a  very  hard  triangular  shell,  and  have  a  pleasant  flavour, 
not  unlike  that  of  the  pine-apple.  This  pine  is  the  only  forest-tree  found 
at  a  height  of  KXXf :,  it  prefers  open  and  damp  situations  and  does  not 
thrive  in  the  plains ;  in  Siberia  it  attains  a  height  of  lOfY. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Engadine  usually  leave  their  native  country  in 
early  life  and  migrate  to  all  parts  of  Europe.  As  sugar-bakers,  confectioners, 
coffee-house  keepers,  and  manufacturers  of  liqueurs  and  chocolate,  they  seem 
to  have  a  spidatit^^  and  in  these  avocations  they  frequently  amass  con- 
siderable fortunes  \  they  then  return  to  their  native  valleys  to  spend  the 
evening  of  a  busy  and  active  life.  To  this  class  belong  the  picturesque 
habitations  with  their  small  (to  exclude  the  cold)  windows  and  gilded 
lattices,  so  common  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  These  abodes  are  most 
comfortably  furnished,  and  their  owners  are  generally  well-educated  and 
respectable  men,  who  have  acquired  in  their  cosmopolitan  pursuits  a 
knowledge  of  many  of  the  continental  languages,  sometimes  to  the  parttol 
forgetfulness  of  their  native  ^  Ladin  \ 

The  native  of  the  Engadine  is  sober,  industrious,  frugal,  and  intelligent, 
learning  with  facility  all  the  kindred  dialects  of  his  native  tongue.  Poverty 
is  rare,  though  there  is  not  that  eager  pursuit  of  wealth  so  common  to 
the  age. 

Almost  all  the  inhabitants  belong  to  the  reformed  faith ;  the  clergy, 
whose  stipends  seldom  exceed  1000  fr.,  occupy  their  cures  for  a  limited 
number  of  years  only,  as  appointments  for  life,  »re  prohibited  by  law. 
Sermons  are  usually  delivered  in  the  Romansch  dialect,  German  being 
occasionally  employed.  The  government  of  this  valley  is  a  pure  demo- 
cracy. ^  Next  to  God  and  the  sun,  the  poorest  inhabitant  is  the  chief 
magistrate  %  says  an  old  Engj^dine  proverb  i  nevertheless  certain  noble 
families,  such  as  the  Plantas  (k  329),  have  for  centuries  enjoyed  a  consi- 
derable influence,  which  is  far  rrom  being  extinguished  at  the  present  day. 

The  lofty  plateau  of  the  Maloja  (comp.  p.  365),  Ital.  Maloggia^ 
Rom.  Motogia  (5941'),  Is  the  boundary  between  the  Val  Bregaglia 
and  the  Engadine.  At  the  summit  is  the  inn  Zum  Maloja- 
Kulm. 

The  ^Oavloccio  Lake,  ^\a  hr.  from  the  inn,  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  Fol- 
low the  new  road  diverging  to  the  1.  from  the  Maloja  road  iJ2  H.  below 
the  pass  on  the  W.  side,  passing  the  lowest  houses  of  the  village  of 
Orden^  crossing  the  Ordlegna  (waterfall,  see  below),  and  ascending  on  its  1. 
bank.  After  1J4  hr.  the  road  crosses  the  brook  issuing  from  the  lake  and 
soon  reaches  tlie  sequestered,  dark-blue  lake  itself  (6243'),  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  mountains.  To  the  S.  rises  the  beautifully  shaped 
Monte  d^Oro  (10,544'),  to  the  1.  of  which  is  the  snowy  Muretto-Pass  (see 
below).  The  narrow  road  terminates  at  a  large  farm-building  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  lake. 

The  Fall  of  the  Ordlenia  is  reached  by  following  the  windings  of 
the  Maloja  road  for  about  1  M.,  and  turning  to  the  1.  by  a  path  which 
leads  to  a  (5  min.)  rocky  plateau  above  the  principal  fall.  Back  to  the  inn, 
i|2  hr. 

Another  interesting  walk  (2 — 4  hrs.,  with  guide)  is  to  the  Fomo  Ol<tcier. 
Follow  the  Muretto  route  (see  below)  as  far  as  the  (l^fz  hr.)  chalets  of 
Pian  Caning  (6619') ;  then  ascend  to  the  r.  for  ^2  hr.  over  debris  and 
moraine,  to  the  Fomo  Olacier,  above  the  precipitous  vault  of  its  outlet. 
Ascend  on  the  r.  side  of  the  glacier  (the  middle  is  to  be  avoided  on  account 
of  its  crevasses),  skirting  the  moraine,  to  the  (2  hrs.)  magnificent  plateau 
of  the  glacier,  surrounded  by  the  Cima  del  Largo,  Pizzo  Torrone,  Mte. 
Sissone,  and  Cima  di  Rosso.  The  Monte  Sissone,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  Monte  della  Disgrazia,  may  be  ascended  in  1  hr.  from  the  extremity 
of  the  glacier  (guide  necessary). 

A  path  which  is  steep  at  places  leads  from  the  Majola  towards  the  S. 
across  the  Muretto  Paaa  (8389 )  in  8  hrs.  to  Chiesa  in  the  valley  of  Malenco 
(descending  to  the  Valtellina),  and  in  3  hrs.  more  to  Sondrio  (p.  344).    The 


326     Route  «2.  SILS.  Upper 

Val  Malenco  abounds  in  minerals.  The  pass  itself  is  monotonous,  the 
route  traversing  a  glacier  and  rocky  debris  (guide  necessary).  On  the  farther 
side,  however,  a  fine  view  is  disclosed  of  the  Monte  delta  DUgrazia 
(12,074').  Two  poor  inns  at  Chiesa,  not  recommended.  —  From  Chiesa 
over  the  Canciano  Pass  (8366')  to  Poschiavo  in  9—10  hrs.,  good  guides 
necessary.  —  From  Chiesa  across  the  Fex-Qlader  to  Sils,  8 — 9  hrs.,  inter- 
esting (guide  necessary). 

The  road  soon  crosses  the  infant  Inn^  here  termed  Ova  d'Oen, 
which  descends  rapidly  in  several  falls  from  the  Piz  Lunghin 
(9121')  to  the  N.W.,  and  reaches  the  pale-green  Lake  of  Sils, 
Rom.  Lej  da  8egl  (5892'),  4^2  M.  in  length.  To  the  r.  rises 
the  Piz  delta  Margna  (10,354'),  with  its  precipitous  glacier. 
On  a  green  plateau  farther  on,  at  the  mouth  of  the  brook  de- 
scending from  the  Val  Fedoz,  lies  the  hamlet  of  Isola  (Islag), 
overshadowed  by  the  beautiful  Corvatseh.  The  road  skirts  a 
rocky  promontory  which  divides  the  lake  into  two  basins.  As 
the  peninsula  of  Chaste  (see  below)  is  approached,  the  extensive 
Fedoz  OlacieVy  at  the  head  of  the  Val  Fedoz,  imbedded  between 
the  Piz  Margna  on  the  r.  and  the  Pi«  Lat  (10,397')  on  the  1., 
comes  into  sight  above  Isola. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  lake,  to  the  r.  of  the  road,  lies  (4^2  M.) 
Sils  (5895'),  Rom.  8egl,  consisting  of  the  hamlets  of  Sils  Baseglia 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  valley  (Hdtel  de  la  Qrande  Vue),  and  the 
pleasantly  situated  Sils  Maria  (*Alpenrose,  R.  2^/2)  B.  1 ,  L 
and  A.  1  fr.),  1/2  M.  from  the  bridge  over  the  Inn,  both  con- 
taining handsome  houses. 

Pleasant  excursion  from  Sils-Maria  to  the  (2i)2  hrs.)  Fez  Glacier 
(  Vadret  da  Fex).  Before  reaching  the  bridge  over  the  Fex  (Ova  Oranda^ 
great  water),  beyond  Maria,  the  well-defined  path  ascends  to  the  r.  through 
the  Laretwaldy  passing  the  houses  of  Platta  and  Fex^  to  (li)4  hr.)  Curtins 
(6483'),  crosses  the  Fex,  and  recrosses  it  at  the  (1(4  hr.)  last  chalet  (ground 
marshy  at  places).  It  then  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  Muot  Selvas^  which 
forms  a  rocky  barrier  across  the  valley  and  is  crossed  by  an  old  and  par- 
tially paved  track.  The  S.  side  of  this  hill  affords  an  excellent  survey  of 
the  glacier,  overshadowed  by  the  Piz  ChapUtschin^  the  Pit  Tremoggia^  La 
CapUtscha^  Piz  GUz^  and  to  the  r.  Piz  Lat.  In  the  opposite  direction  the 
view  embraces  the  green  Fex-Thal,  with  the  indented  chain  of  the  Pit 
Lagref  (9721')  and  the  Piz  Pulaschin  (9898')  in  the  background.  —  From 
the  Fex-Thal  to  the  Roseg-Qlacier  and  to  Pontresina^  see  p.  333.  —  Over 
the  Fex  Glacier  to  Chiesa^  see  above. 

Those  who  do  not  wish  to  visit  the  glacier  itself,  need  not  proceed 
beyond  the  Chapel  at  Fex  (*(4  hr.),  and  in  returning  may  cross  the  brook 
and  follow  the  path  througti  the  gorge,  where  a  view  of  the  beautiful 
waterfall  is  obtained. 

The  MonU  MarmoH^  which  rises  near  S.  Maria,  an  admirable  point 
of  view,  is  ascended  by  a  good  path  (2  hrs.  there  and  back). 

The  peninsula  of  Chaste  (i.  e.  'castle'),  which  projects  into  the 
lake  of  Sils,  bears  traces  of  the  walls  of  an  ancient  castle. 

The  road  soon  reaches  the  W.  bank  of  the  Lake  of  Silva- 
plana  (5886'),  which  it  skirts  as  far  as 

SUvaplana  (5957')  (*Post,  or  Kreuz,  R.  3,  B.  I74,  D.  3, 
L.  and  A.  II/4  fr. ;  *  Wilder  Mann;  Sonne,  good  wine),  where  it 
is  joined  by  the  Julier  road  (p.  323).     The  village  is  pleasantly 


Engadine.  ST.  MORITZ.  52.  Route.     327 

situated  amidst  green  meadows ,  on  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the 
Montaraakerbach^  which  extend  into  the  lake  and  divide  it  into 
two  parts,  the  lower  of  which  is  connected  hy  a  canal  with  the 
little  Lake  of  Campfer,  drained  by  the  Inn  (here  called  Seld). 
The  river  does  not  assume  the  name  of  Inn  (or  Kn)  until  be- 
yond the  Lake  of  St.  Moritz. 

From  Silvaplana  to  Pontresina  by  the  Fuorcla  da  Surlej 
(guide  8  fr.),  a  very  attractive  excursion  of  7  or  8  hrs.  The  narrow  part 
of  the  lake  near  Silvaplana  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  to  Surlej^  ^  beyond  the 
lake\  where  there  is  a  mineral  spring.  This  village,  formerly  of  some 
importance,  is  now  almost  deserted  owing  to  the  devastations  caused  by 
inundations.  In  1793  a  calamity  of  this  kind  destroyed  the  church  and 
many  houses,  and  covered  the  meadows  with  debris.  Beyond  the  village, 
the  brook  must  not  be  crossed,  but  the  path  to  the  r.  ascended  into  the 
forest;  1  hr.,  a  chalet,  beyond  which  the  path  inclines  to  the  1.  over  a 
meadow,  towards  the  Piz  Corvatich  (11,345'),  the  ascent  of  which  may  be 
made  from  Alp  Ota  (comp.  p.  333).  After  ^\\  hr.  cross  the  ridge  to  the  I. 
in  the  direction  of  a  large  black  rock,  visible  even  from  Silvaplana,  and 
serving  as  a  landmark.  From  this  point  the  path  bears  to  the  1.,  and  soon 
reaches  the  summit  (3i(2  hrs.  from  Silvaplana)  of  the  pass  (9042'),  near  the 
glaciSl*  which  descends  from  the  Piz  Corvatsch.  The  magnificent  Roseg 
(pron.  Rosiige)  Glacier  (p.  332)  now  becomes  visible.  The  path  descends 
to  the  1.  over  pastures,  passing  several  chalets,  near  the  third  of  which  it 
improves  \  after  2  hrs.  it  reaches  the  new  inn  Zum  Roseg  Glacier  at  the 
bottom  of  the  valley.    Thence  to  Pontresina,  see  p.  332. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Silvaplana  Lake  is  connected  by  a 
canal  14  yds.  in  breadth  with  the  small  Lake  of  Campfer,  the 
W.  bank  of  which  is  skirted  by  the  road.  On  a  wooded  emi- 
nence between  the  two  lakes,  opposite  the  road,  is  the  cafe 
Crestalta  (6250'),  which  commands  a  picturesque  view  of  the 
lakes  and  mountains  of  the  Upper  Engadine,  and  is  much  visited 
from  St.  Moritz  (boats  for  crossing  the  lake  to  be  had).  The 
Campfer  Lake  is  drained  by  the  Jnn,  here  termed  the  Sela,  the 
former  name  being  applied  to  it  after  it  leaves  the  lake  of  St. 
Moritz. 

At  (IV2  M.)  CwnpfAr,  Rom.  Champfer  (6000')  (Hotel  Julier- 
Hof)y  the  road  divides.  The  new  road,  on  which  the  diligence 
runs  in  summer,  crosses  the  Inn  and  leads  past  the  Ourhaus 
(see  below)  to  (21/4  M.)  8t,  Moritz,  while  the  old  road,  shorter 
by  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  preferable  for  the  sake  of  the  view, 
runs  at  a  considerable  height  above  the  inn,  on  its  1.  bank.  To 
the  S.E.  above  the  valley  of  Pontresina  rises  the  barren  and 
apparently  inaccessible  Piz  Languard  (p.  331). 

St.  Moriti  (61000,  ^om.  San  Murezzan  (*H6tel  Culm  and 
Post,  at  the  end  of  the  village,  R.  2 — 3,  D.  6,  pension  5 — 7  fr. ; 
Pensions  Qartman,  Veraguth,  Wettstein,  Belvedere,  Riedi,  Flutsch, 
Naroldj  Caviezel,  Kubler,  JSuisse,  Bemet  ,•  Hdtel  du  Lac,  new. 
English  ChurcK),  the  highest  village  in  the  Engadine,  159' 
higher  than  the  Maloja,  is  situated  to  the  N.  of  the  small  Lake 
of  St.  Moritz,  which  abounds  in  trout.  On  an  open  grassy 
plateau  (5804'),  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Inn,  1  M.  to  the  S.  of 
the  village,  are  the 


328     RouU  «2.  ST.  MORITZ.  Upper 

Baths  of  St.  Morits,  the  water  of  whicb  is  a  powerfal  chaly- 
beate, strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  and  alkaline 
salts,  pronounced  the  best  of  its  kind  in  Europe  by  Paracelsus 
(p.  '297)  as  early  as  1539,  and  annually  resorted  to  by  numerous 
patients  as  a  cure  for  scrofula,  chlorosis,  and  bowel-complaints. 
The  *Curhaus,  erected  in  1855,  with  a  large  adjoining  building, 
is  capable  of  accommodating  250  patients  (saloons,  reading  and 
billiard  rooms,  a  covered  promenade,  music,  etc.;  pension  for 
patients  6  fr.,  R.  from  2V2,  B.  1,  D.  21/2,  A.  1  fr.).  Physi- 
cians Dr.  Briigger  and  Dr.  Berri.  The  season  is  from  the  mid- 
dle of  June  to  the  middle  of  September.  Patients  will  find  warm 
clothing  necessary,  as  snow  not  unfrequently  falls  in  August. 

The  usual  promenades  are  through  the  wood  to  the  (3/4  hr.) 
Johannisberg  (Piz  St.  Qian)^  which  commands  a  beautiful  view 
over  the  upper  lakes;  to  the  farm  of  Silva  (see  below)  by  the 
lake  of  St.  Moritz  Q/2  hr.),  and  to  that  of  Alpina  above  Gampfer; 
and  to  the  (3/4  hr.)  Caf^  Creatalta  (see  above).  The  Piz  RosaUch, 
see  p.  333. 

One-horse  carr.  (for  2  pers.,  there  and  back)  to  Samaden  6,  Pontresina 

7,  Morteratsch  Glacier  10,  Bemina  Inn   (comp.  p.  341)  12 ,   sammit  of  the 
pass  15,   to  Silvaplana  in  the  forenoon  4,   in  the  afternoon  6,   Sils-Haria 

8,  Maloja  10  fr. ;   driver's   fee  *|2 — 1^/2  fr.  (with   two   horses   the  fares  are 
doubled).     Boat  on  the  lake  1  fr.  per  hour. 

The  *Pis  Hair  (10,040")  is  easily  ascended  from  St.  Moritz  by  the  Alp 
Oiop  in  3' (2— 4  hrs.  Towards  the  summit  the  path  inclines  to  the  1.  Magnifi- 
cent panorama  of  the  Bemina  chain.  —  The  descent  should  be  made  by 
the  Alp  Nova  or  Alp  Laret  (see  below). 

Towards  Cresta,  i|4  M.  beyond  St.  Moritz,  on  a  slight  eminence  between 
the  road  and  the  fall  of  the  Inn,  lies  a  huge  mass  of  rock,  the  ^JRuinatsch* 
(great  fall),  probably  the  remnant  of  a  landslip,  or  an  erratic  block. 

Interesting  excursion  of  6  —  7  hrs.  from  St.  Moritz  over  the  Alp  Giopy 
through  the  S.  portion  of  the  Suvretta  Valley^  to  the  little  lake  (85890  lying 
between  it  and  the  N.  Suvretta  Valley ;  after  passing  through  the  latter  and 
the  Val  di  Severs  to  the  village  of  that  name  (p.  334),  St.  Moritz  may  be 
regained  by  carriage. 

From  St.  Moritz  (in  2  hrs.)  over  the  Alp  Laret  (6893')  to  (1>|2  hr.)  Cele- 
rina  (p.  329),  a  beautiful  walk  with   a  fine   view  down   the  valley.    Good 
path   as  far   as  the   Alp   Laret.     The  rocky   peak   (7766')   rising  above  it, 
which   may  be    easily  ascended   in  2  hrs.    from   St.   Moritz,   commands   a" 
beautiful  view  of  the  Bernina  chain. 

^Excursion  on  the  Bernina  Road  (p.  340)  to  the  Hospice,  and  visit  to 
the  Morteratsch  Glacier  (p.  331)  on  the  way  back,  in  lO  hrs.  (carr.  see 
above).  The  OHlm  Alp  (p.  341)  may  also  be  visited  from  the  Lago  Nero, 
but  too  little  time  would  then  be  left  to  see  the  Morteratsch  Glacier  in 
returning. 

A  good  path  leads  from  the  Baths  along  the  S.  bank  of  the  Lake  of 
St.  Moritz  by  the  Bilva  farm  and  past  the  Lake  of  Statz  in  1*|2  hr.  to  Pontre- 
sina (consult  finger-post  beyond  the  Statzer  See).  Beyond  the  lake  it  leads 
through  wood,  round  the  base  of  the  Rosatsch^  and  below  Pontresina 
crosses  the  Roseg  and  Bemina  brooks.  —  The  road  from  the  village  of 
St.  Moritz  to  the  (20  min.)  Silva  farm  crosses  the  Inn  as  it  issues  from  the 
lake,  above  the  waterfall  (see  below). 

Below  St.  Moritz  (8/4  M.)  the  Inn  forms  a  picturesque  fall 
as  it  issues  from  the  lake.    At  a  bend  of  the  road,  in  the  forest 


J 


Engadine.  SAMADEN.  82.  Route.     329 

of  larches ,  as  soon  as  the  hill  is  rounded ,  an  admirable  survey 
is  enjoyed  of  the  valley  of  the  Inn,  extending  nearly  in  a  straight 
line  as  far  as  the  Munt  Baseglia,  at  the  base  of  which  Zernetz  (p.  336) 
is  situated,  and  which  appears  to  close  the  valley.  The  bottom 
of  the  valley  is  visible  as  far  as  Zuz.  The  two  villages  of  Cresta 
and  Celerina,  Rom.  ScMarigna  (^H6tel  Murail;  Kreuz;  *  Pension 
Ronzi,  unpretending),  are  separated  by  a  brook  only.  [The  road 
from  Celerina  to  Pontresina  (3  M.)  leads  to  the  r.  near  the  half- 
ruined  church  of  8t.  Qion;  to  the  r.  a  forest-path  to  the  Statzer 
See  and  the  Selva  farm  on  the  Lake  of  St.  Moritz,  see  p.  328.] 
Near  Samaden  the  Flatzhach  or  Beminabach,  which  descends  from 
the  Bernina,  falls  into  the   Inn. 

Samaden  (5600'),  Rom .  Saniedan  (Somma  d'Oeny  Summum  Oeni  ?), 
(*H6tel  Bernina,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  village,  view  of  the  Bemina  group, 
R.  from  2,  B.  1»|2,  D.  3,  L.  i|a,  A.  ija  fr. ;  *  Hotel  et  Pension  des  Alpes-, 
*  EncADiNEB  Hor;  Hotel  Pension  zum  Innthal;  *  Krone,  unpretending; 
one-horse  carr.  to  Pontresina  4,  Morteratsch  Glacier  7,  Bemina  Pass  12, 
St.  Moritz  4,  the  Baths  5,  Silvaplana  6,  Sils  Maria  8,  Maloja  10  fr.), 
the  chief  village  (522  inhab.)  of  the  Upper  Engadine,  possesses 
many  handsome  bow-windowed  houses,  with  bright  green  shutters, 
and  wainscoted  with  the  wood  of  the  Alpine  cedar.  It  is  the 
wealthiest  place  in  the  district,  and  boasts  of  a  banker  (Af.  Toaio^ 
also  of  Trieste),  who  is  in  direct  correspondence  with  the  prin- 
cipal commercial  towns  of  Europe. 

The  principal  house  in  Samaden  is  the  residence  of  the 
Planta  family,  a  name  intimately  connected  with  the  history  of  the 
country  for  nearly  1000  years.  The  bear's  paw  (^planta)  which 
figures  in  the  family-escutcheon  is  often  met  with  in  the  Enga- 
dine. The  old  church  of  St.  PeUr,  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
village,  is  paved  with  the  gravestones  of  the  Planta,  Salis,  Juvalta, 
and  other  families.  A  tombstone  to  the  r.  by  the  churchyard 
wall,  bears  the  inscription :  Quia  aia  sepulieu  il  Sig.  Landamma 
Rudolf  de  Planta  (d.  1840),  pisserus  et  amd  bap  da  famiglia,  amih 
fidelj  horn  actif  et  bain  intenziond  pet  il  pxd)lic.  (Here  is  interred 
the  Landammann  Rudolph  de  Planta,  a  good  and  beloved  father, 
a  faithful  friend,  an  active  and  patriotic  citizen.) 

Beautiful  view  from  the  *Haott«s  (8464')  or  Kittelberg,  situated  oppo- 
site Samaden  to  the  E.,  ascent  21/2  hrs.  The  summit  overlooks  a  part  of 
the  glaciers  of  the  Bernina,  the  green  Upper  Engadine  with  its  lakes,  as 
far  as  the  Maloja,  but  downwards  only  as  far  as  Ponte.  The  ascent  is 
also  frequently  made  from  Pontresina  (comp.  p.  331). 

To  the  W.  above  Samaden  rises  Fix  Padella  ( 9459^),  a  grotesquely  cleft 
limestone  rock,  and  beyond  it  a  rocky  ridge  with  three  peaks  (Trais 
Fluorsy  '  three  flowers  ■*),  which  connect  the  Piz  Padella  with  the  imposing 
pyramid  of  *Pi«  Ot  (10,e6(y),  i.e.  'lofty  peak'.  This  mountain,  which 
rises  abruptly  in  a  pyramidal  form,  and  was  formerly  accessible  to  ex- 
perienced climbers  only,  is  frequently  ascended  in  S^fa — 4  hrs.  from  Sama- 
den. The  path  leads  round  the  Piz  Padella,  and  then  ascends  in  zigzags 
to  the  top,  iron  cramps  being  attached  to  the  rock  at  difficult  places. 
(Path  direct  from  St.  Moritz  also,  uniting  with  that  from  Samaden  at  the 
Fontana  Fredda,  a  spring  half-way  up :  thus  far  riding  is  practicable.) 
Imposing  view,  similar  to  that  from  the  Piz  Languard  (p.  331).  —  On  the 


330     RouU  82.  PONTRESINA.  Upper 

way  back  from  the  Piz  Ot  the  Piz  Padella  (see  above)  may  also  be 
ascended  without  difficulty  in  1  hr.  from  the  point  where  the  path  is 
quitted  (or  in  3  hrs.  from  Samaden).  *View  of  the  valley  of  the  Inn, 
from  Silvaplana  to  Zernetz.  Rich  flora.  The  descent  may  be  made  by 
the  other  side  (guide  necessary  \  to  the  Piz  Ot  and  Padella  together  10  fr.). 

The  road  to  (4Y2  M.)  Pontreaina  (the  high-road  over  the  Ber- 
nina,  R.  84)  crosses  the  Inn  near  Samadeu,  traverses  the  bottom 
hi  the  valley,  and  ascends  gradually  by  the  bank  of  the  Bemina- 
bach,  or  FUiizbach.  On  the  r.,  at  the  extremity  of  the  Valley  of 
Roaeg,  which  opens  near  Pontresina,  is  seen  the  magnificent  Roseg 
Qlaeier  (p.  332);  in  the  background  the  Piz  Roseg  (12,936'), 
and  on  the  £.  its  nearest  and  loftiest  neighbour,  the  Piz  Bemina 
(see  below). 

The  Bernina  Chains  a  group  of  mountains  scarcely  inferior 
in  grandeur  to  that  of  Monte  Rosa,  separates  the  Upper  Engadine 
and  Val  Bregaglia  (p.  363)  from  the  Valtellina  (p.  343).  Its 
Ijighest  peak  is  the  Piz  Bemina  (13,294'),  or  Monte  Rosso  di 
Scerscen.  ascended  in  1850,  1858,  and  1861,  also  in  1863  hy 
the  Editor,  accompanied  by  the  guides  Pet.  Jenny  and  Alex.  Fluty. 
The  last  portion  of  the  ascent,  the.  'Terrace'  as  it  is  termed, 
and  the  passage  of  the  ^Steile  Wand",  are  sometimes  not  unattended 
with  danger.  To  the  E.  of  this  mountain,  the  Piz  di  Palii 
(12,835'),  especially  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  outline 
and  the  transparency  of  its  glaciers,  becomes  visible  at  Pontresina. 
The  remarkably  interesting  glaciers  (Rom.  Vadret,  Ital.  Vedretta') 
and  snows  of  this  group,  occupying  an  area  of  upwards  of  350  sq. 
M. ,  are  now  frequently  explored  by  mountaineers ,  a  large  pro- 
portion of  whom  are  English.     Inns  frequently  crowded. 

Pontresina  and  its  Environs. 

C&mp.  Map^  p.  324. 

Hotels.  *H6tel  Roseo,  a  large  new  house  at  the  lower  end  of  the 
village,  R.  2»|2,  D.  3,  S.  2,  B.  HU,  L.  and  A.  l»|s  fr.  ^  *Keone  (Post),  with 
view  of  the  Roseg  Glacier;  *Weis8es  Kredz,  R.  l^ja  —  2,  B.  1,  D.  23J4, 
pension  5  fr.,  room  extra.  Private  apartments  at  M.  Sarat**.^.  At  Ober- 
Pontresina:  *Steinbock,  for  moderate  requirements,  well  situated.  There 
is  also  a  ^BierhalW  here. 

Ottides.  Hans  OrasSy  Barthol.  WaltheVy  Pet.  Jennpy  Jacob  and  Paul 
Mailer y  Christ.  OrasSy  Abrah.  AmbiUily  Poppy  and  S.  Schniieler  are  trust- 
worthy and  experienced.  The  charges  for  the  different  excursions  are 
mentioned  in  each  case. 

Dried  Plants  collected  and  sold  by  the  schoolmaster  Enderlin  (land- 
lord of  the  Kreuz);  photographs,  etc.,  at  Flury's. 

Carriages.  One-horse  to  Samaden  3,  St.  Moritz  5,"  Baths  of  St. 
Moritz  6,  Morteratsch  Glacier  3i|2,  Roseg  Glacier  6,  Bemina  Hospice  10, 
La  Rosa  15  fr. 

Pontresina  (591 5^) .  a  village  with  300  inhab. ,  consists  of 
Lower  and  Upper  Pontresina  ^  almost  contiguous.  .  The  traveller 
will  be  surprised  to  find  at  this  elevation  (10'  higher  than  the 
Rigikulm)  such  a  variety  of  flowers  as  the  gardens  of  many  of 
the  inhabitants  contain ,  especially  that  adjoining  the  church ,  at 
the   upper   end   of  Lower   Pontresina.     Like  Grintlelwald ,    Cha- 


Engadine.  PIZ  LANQUARD.  82.  RouU.     331 

mouny,  and  Zermatt,  Pontresina  forms  admirable  head-quarters 
for  excursions  on  the  glaciers.  M.  Joh.  Saratz^  president  of 
the  district,  a  very  successful  chamois-hunter,  who  resides  opp. 
the  church,  possesses  a  small  collection  of  stuffed  animals,  prin- 
cipally the  spoil  of  his  own  gun. 

The  ascent  (81/2 — ^>  descent  2^2 — 3  hrs.)  of  the  *Pijs  Languard 
(10,715',  4800'  above  Pontresina)  Qungo  gnardo  =  extensive 
view)  is  deservedly  a  favourite  excursion  from  Pontresina  (guide 
unnecessary,  7  fr. ;  horse  to  the  foot  of  the  peak  10  fr.).  This 
sharp  and  apparently  inaccessible  pyramid  rises  to  the  £.  of 
Pontresina  (not  visible  thence),  immediately  opposite  the  main 
group  of  the  Bernina.  One-third  of  the  ascent  is  by  a  some- 
what steep  path,  winding  upwards  through  forests  of  larch  and 
'Alpine  cedars\  and  fringed  with  rhododendrons,  as  far  as  the 
chalet  of  the  Bergamasque  shepherds.  The  next  part  of  the 
route  is  more  level,  and  traverses  pastures,  ascending  the  bleak 
valley  of  Languard  to  the  S.  base  of  the  Languard  cone  (thus 
far  riding  is  practicable).  The  last  part  of  the  ascent  is  by  a 
steep  zigzag  path  over  the  rocks.  The  traveller  should  start  from 
Pontresina  as  early  as  possible,  as  mists  generally  begin  to  rise 
about  9  a.m.;  moreover  in  the  early  morning  the  path  to  the 
foot  of  the  cone   is  in  the  shade. 

The  space  on  the  summit  is  very  limited.  Upright  blocks  of 
stone  afford  slight  shelter  from  wind  and  rain.  The  extensive 
**view  from  the  summit  (comp.  panorama)  extends  to  the  S.W. 
as  far  as  Monte  Rosa  and  Mont  Blanc,  to  the  S.E.  to  the 
Adamello,  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Todi,  and  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Zug- 
spitze.  With  the  exception  of  Campfer,  St.  Moritz  with  its  lake, 
and  Cresta,  no  vestige  of  human  abodes  is  visible.  The  Piz  Lan- 
guard is  a  rich  field  for  the  botanist;  the  beautiful  'Edelweiss' 
is  also  occasionally  found. 

Experienced  mountaineers  may  descend  by  La  Piselta,  passing  the 
small  lake  of  that  name,  which  is  frozen  over  until  late  in  the  summer, 
to  the  Val  del  Fain  (p.  341)  and  the  Bernina  road,  a  route  (10—12  hrs., 
guide  10  fr.)  chiefly  interesting  to  the  botanist  and  mineralogist.  In  de- 
scending into  the  Val  del  Fain,  the  waterfall  descending  from  the  lake 
must  be  left  several  hundred  paces  to  the  1. 

On  the  1.  bank  of  the  Bernina,  above  the  bridge  leading  to 
the  Roseg  Valley,  there  are  pleasant  promenades,  extending  as 
far  as  the  waterfall  by  the  saw-mill.  —  Ascent  of  the  Muottas 
(21/2  hrs. ;  guide  5  fr.),  see  p.  329.  —  The  Schafberg  (^Munt  della 
Betchuj  8966'),  which  rises  above  Pontresina  to  the  N.E. ,  and 
forms  the  W.  spur  of  the  Piz  Murailg  (10,364'),  is  easily  as- 
cended in  2^2 — 3  hrs.  (admirable  view  of  the  Engadine).  — 
Footpath  to  the  Baih$  of  St.  Moritz,  see  p.  328.  —  By  the  *Ber- 
nina  Road  to  the  Hospice,  see  p.  341 ;  to  the  Alp  GrUm,  p.  341 . 

Another  interesting  excursion  is  to  ^th^  ^Morter^ts^h  Olaoier 
(guide  unnecessary),  l^/ihr.  S.  of  Pontresii/tf,',  l)^loi»ibe  Bernina 


332     RouU  82.  ROSEG  GLACIER.  Upper 

road  (p.  340).  About  ^2  ^-  ^^om  the  last  house  of  Pontresina, 
near  a  saw-mill.  is  a  fine  cascade  issuing  from  the  Languard 
valley.  About  1  M.  farther,  at  the  finger-post  indicating  the 
route  to  Morteratsch,  the  road  is  quitted  by  a  road  to  the  r. 
(the  old  bridle  path),  which  leads  in  20  min.  to  a  rounded  rocky 
eminence  termed  the  Flatten.  The  path  here  diverges  to  the 
r.,  passing  the  (12  min.)  beautiful  *Falls  of  the  Bernina  brook, 
which  is  precipitated  over  huge  masses  of  rock  (chalet  with 
refreshments).  A  new  bridge  commanding  a  good  view  of  both 
falls  crosses  the  Bernina  brook  between  them.  In  a  few  min. 
more  the  glacier  is  attained.  —  The  path  continues  to  the  r. 
(N.),  ascending  through  a  forest  of  Alpine  cedars,  to  the  (40  min.) 
Morteratsch  Alp  (Chunetta) ,  whence  the  frozen  cataract  of  the 
Morteratsch,  6  M.  in  length,  is  best  surveyed.  A  closer  survey 
may  be  made  from  the  Boval  hut  (see  p.  334),  2  hrs.  farther; 
guide  desirable  (8  fr.).  The  Bernina  road  also  (p.  340)  commands 
an  admirable  view  of  the  glacier. 

The  following  easy  ^Glacier  Excursion  (with  guide),  which  may 
be  extended  at  pleasure,  is  recommended  (distances  reckoned  from  Pont- 
resina):  from  the  Morteratsch  Alp  across  the  glacier  to  the  Lcikes  4  hrs. 
(6  fr.),  to  the  *l8la  Persa  »|2  hr.  (8  fr.),  summit  of  the  Isla  Persa  ifg  hr. 
more  (10  fr.),  which  is  surrounded  by  the  imposing  amphitheatre  formed 
by  Mont  Pers,  the  Piz  Cambrena,  Palii,  Zupo,  Bernina,  and  Morteratsch. 
Diavolezza  Expedition  (see  p.  333)  not  recommended  from  this  side. 

A  visit  to  the  Morteratsch  Glacier  may  easily  be  combined  with  an 
excursion  to  the  Bernina- Road  and  the  L<»go  Nero  and  Lago  Bianco 
(p.  341).  If  the  glacier  be  omitted ,  the  excursion  (with  aid  of  can*,  or 
diligence)  may  be  extended  as  follows :  from  Lago  Nero  by  Lago  Bianco, 
the  Cambrena  Glacier,  and  the  Lago  della  Scala  to  the  Alp  Orum  (li|4  hr. 
from  Lago  Bianco),  and  across  the  latter  to  the  point  where  it  terminates. 
Here  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  and  lake  of  Poschiavo  (p.  343)  and  of  the 
Palu  Glacier  is  obtained.  The  traveller  now  returns  by  the  easily  passable 
outlet  of  the  Lago  della  Scala  to  the  Gallery  (2  hrs.)  on  the  Bernina- road, 
where  his  carr.  should  be  in  waiting  ;  thence  to  Pontresina  a  drive  of  3  hrs. 
—  Bernina  Inn,  sec  p.  341. 

The  *BoBeg  Glacier  (2^2  brs.,  5  M.  of  the  way  by  a  tolerable 
road ;  guide  unnecessary,  unless  an  excursion  on  the  glacier  itself 
is  contemplated).  Immediately  above  Unter-Pontresina  the  road 
descends  to  the  Bernina,  crosses  this  brook  and  the  Roseg,  and 
ascends  the  valley  of  the  latter,  between  the  wooded  Piz  Chdlchang 
on  the  1.  and  the  Piz  Roaatsch  and  Surlej  on  the  r.  Beyond  the 
(21/2  M.)  Alp  PHima  the  road  crosses  the  brook  (picturesque 
view  of  the  head  of  the  valley).  Near  the  Alp  Seguonda,  a  little 
farther,  there  is  a  good  spring.  On  the  (21/2  M.)  S.  side  of  a 
wooded  hill  which  appears  to  terminate  the  valley  (on  the  1., 
high  above,  is  the  Misauner  Glacier,  descending  from  the  Piz 
Tschierva^  the  brook  Is  again  crossed  (^Restaurant  du  Glacier  du 
Roseg,  a  small  inn),  and  a  good  survey  is  obtained  of  the  huge 
glacier,  the  ramifications  of  which  (the  Vadret  da  Roseg  to  the  W. 
and  the  Va<^ret  da  Tschierva  to  the  E.)  unite  below  the  rocky  islet 
of  AgagU^ui^  t)yerSiiadowed  by  the  Piz  Roseg,  the  Sella,  and  the 


Engadine.  SELLA  PASS.  89.  Route.     333 

diapiitscliin.  The  best  point  of  view  is  the  Alp  Ota  (7385'), 
^/^  hr.  from  the  inn,  reached  by  a  somewhat  steep  ascent  on  the 
1.  side  of  the  moraine,  on  the  slope  of  the  Piz  Corvatsch.  Fine 
view  of  the  Piz  Bernina  and  Piz  Morteratsch  towards  the  S.E. 
An  excellent  survey  is  also  obtained  from  the  Alp  Surovil, 
reached  in  V2  ^^*  ^Y  ^^^  P^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^-  from  the  inn  leading 
to  the  Fuorcla  da  Surlej  (p.  327).  —  An  interesting  walk  is  to 
the  Agagliouls,  a  rock  protruding  from  the  midst  of  ice  (guide 
necessary,   10  fr.;   from  Pontresina  there  and  back  10 — 11  hrs.). 

The  following  excursions  are  more  fatiguing  than  the  above, 
and  those  denoted  by  f  are  for  experienced  mountaineers  only. 

^Diavolexsa  Exounion  (10—12  hrs.  \  guide  11  fr.),  fatiguing  but  interest- 
ing. From  Pontresina  to  the  Bernina  houses  2  hrs.  (if  the  night  be  spent 
here,  guides  must  be  ordered  from  Pontresina).  Thence  to  the  r.  across 
pastures,  leaving  the  Alp  Bondo  to  the  1.,  then  over  the  stony  Diavolezza; 
finally  ^js  hr.  across  a  gradually  ascending  snow-field  (from  the  inn  2^]^  hrs.) 
to  the  ridge  of  Mont  Pers^  whence  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Bernina 
chain  and  its  ice-cataracts  is  enjoyed  (still  finer  from  the  summit  of  Mont 
Pers,  10,531').  The  descent  to  the  Pers  Glacier  requires  caution  on  account 
of  the  steepness  and  the  loose  stones.    The  rocky  Isla  Perm  is   reached 

in  3J4  hr.  by  crossing  the  glacier ;  thence  to  Pontresina,  see  p.  332. 

<^ 

From  the  Roseg  valley  to  Silvaplana  by  the  Fuorela  da  Surlej 
(7—8  hrs.,  8  fr.),  see  p.  327. 

i  From  Pontresina  to  the  Fex  Valley  and  Sils  Afarta, 
12  hrs.  ^  guide  14  fr.  This  route  ascends  the  Roseg  valley,  passing  the 
Alp  Ota  (see  above) ;  then  a  precipitous  walk  of  several  hrs. ,  V\2  hr.  on  the 
Roseg  Qlacier ;  finally  on  snow  to  the  Cima  da  FeXy  whence  a  fine  panorama. 
The  descent  is  at  first  steep  and  rugged,  then  1  hr.  over  fragments  of 
rock ,  and  down  to  Curtins ;  hence  to  Sils  Haria ,  see  p.  326.  From  the 
summit  to  Sils  Maria  5  hrs.  This  is  an  interesting  excursion ,  but  does 
not  afford  a  complete  view  of  the  Bernina-chain. 

Piz  Rosatsch  (9626')  (and  back  8  hrs.;  guide  7  fr.)  and  Piz  Chal- 
Chang  (10,348')  (also  8  hrs.  5  7  fr.)  command  views  worthy  of  no  great 
interest.  The  *Piz  Surlej  (10,456')  (there  and  back  9  hrs.,  guide  7  fr.), 
an  admirable  point  of  view ,  is  best  ascended  from  the  Silva  farm  and  by 
the  Statzer  Alp;  or  from  Silvaplana  (3i|2— 4  hrs.).  Piz  Ot  (9  hrs. i  7  fr.) 
and  Piz  Pad  ell  a  (7  hrs^  6  fr.),  see  p.  329.  The  Alp  Laret  and  Piz 
Nair,  see  St.  Moritz  (p.  328). 

t  An  interesting  and  imposing  route  leads  across  the  *  Sella  Pats 
from  the  Roseg-Thal  round  the  S.  side  of  the  Berninastock  to  the  Poschiavo 
valley.  Power  of  endurance  and  good  guides  (25  fr.  each  \  to  the  summit 
of  the  pass  only  and  back  15  fr.)  are  requisite  for  the  expedition  (15 — 
16  hrs.,  7  hrs.  on  the  ice  and  snow).  The  previous  night  should  be  spent 
at  the  Roseg  Glacier  Inn  (see  above).  Thence  to  the  summit  of  the  Sella  Pass 
in  5  hrs. ;  to  the  r.  beautiful  masses  of  ice  descending  from  the  Sellaspitze^ 
1.  the  precipitous  rocks  of  the  Piz  Roseg.  Then  a  slight  descent  over  the 
n^v«5  of  the  Scerscen  Qlacier  with  varying  and  magnificent  views,  especially 
of  the  Monte  Rosso  and  Monte  Musella;  above  them  the  broad  Canciano 
Glacier;  more  in  the  foreground  the  sombre  masses  of  the  Monte  Moro 
and  Monte  Nero,  at  the  feet  of  the  spectator  the  dark  Scerscen  Glacier, 
the  whole  presenting  a  most  majestic  spectacle.  The  route  next  leads  in  a 
wide  curve,  close  by  the  S.  slopes  of  the  Bernina,  to  the  Fellaria  Qlacier; 
E.  the  Adamello- Stock  becomes  visible.  After  a  walk  of  2 — 3  hrs.,  the 
fatigue  of  which  depends  on  the  condition  of  the  snow,  the  Fellaria  Glacier 
is  quitted  \  then  a  steep  descent  of  li|4  hr.  te  the  upper  Fellaria  Chalets^ 


334      Route  83.  BEVERS. 

where  milk  may  be  obtained  in  summer ,  and  a  bed  of  hay  if  necessary 
(the  Editor  found  these  huts  closed  in  Sept.,  1867).  The  route  descends 
hence  over  the  moraines  of  the  Fellaria  Glacier,  and  again  ascends  rapidly 
for  1  hr.  by  a  good  footpath.  From  the  summit  of  this  height  a  new  view 
of  the  Fellaria  and  Verona  Glaciers  is  disclosed  -,  W.  the  Monte  della  Dis- 
grazia ;  S.  the  Canciano  Glacier,  high  above  the  path.  In  a  straight  direction 
hence  the  Pas  so  Rovano  (8596')  leads  to  Poschiavo  (p.  343)  through  the 
Vol  Orse  in  Sijs  hrs.  \  also  a  footpath  to  the  r.,  following  the  lofty  E.  slopes 
of  the  Vol  PoschiavinOy  and  descending  to  (4  hrs.)  Le  Prese  (p.  343).  From 
the  Fellaria  Chalets  Pontresina  may  be  regained  by  a  direct  route  over  the 
Bellavista  Pass^  between  the  Piz  Zupo  and  Piz  Palii,  which  however 
is  uninteresting  and  occasionally  dangerous*,  the  same  may  be  said  of  th^ 
Cambrena  Pass,  which  leads  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Piz  Gambrena  to 
the  Bemina  road.  —  The  ChapUtschin  Pass  is  a  similar  route,  leading 
from  the  Roseg  valley,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Chapiitschin,  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  Fex  Glacier,  and  thence  to  the  S.  over  the  Scerscen  Pass, 
between  the  Sella  and  the  Piz  Tremoggia ,  to  the  W.  end  of  the  Bcerscen 
Qlader;  then  a  steep  descent  to  the  W.  of  the  Monte  Moro  into  the  Val 
Entova  and  Chiesa  (p.  325)  in  the  Val  Malenco  (16 — 17  hrs. ;  two  guides 
necessary,  30  fr.  each). 

t  Piz  Chapiitschin  (11,136')  (guide  15  fr.)^  +  Tschierva  (11,713') 
(15  fr.)i  +  Morteraisch  (12,316')  (25  fr.).  Of  the  more  difficult  ex- 
cursions from  Pontresina,  that  which  best  repays  the  fatigue  is  the  ascent 
of  the  +  *Corvatsch  (11,346')  (11—12  hrs.  \  guide  12  fr. ,  or  returning  by 
Silvaplana  16  fr.),  unattended  with  danger.  The  route  is  by  the  Alp  Surovel 
(p.  333)  J  the  Fnorcla  iia  SurleJ  (p.  327)  is  left  to  the  r.,  and  the  Corvatsch 
Olacier  (4  hrs.)  reached  without  material  difficulty.  The  latter  is  crossed 
towards  the  I. ,  a  precipitous  and  stony  ridge  ascended ,  and  the  glacier 
again  traversed.  Finally  a  small  snow-field,  S^l-i  hrs.  from  the  base  of  the 
glacier,  is  ascended  and  the  summit  attained  (generally  free  from  snow). 
The  great  attraction  of  the  view  consists  in  the  immediate  proximity  of 
the  Bernina-group  and  the  survey  of  the  green  Engadine  with  its  villages 
and  lakes,  which  lie  at  the  spectator''s  feet.  The  descent  is  best  made  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  mountain.  In  1  hr.  the  glacier  is  traversed,  and  in  3iJ2  hrs. 
more  Pontresina  regained. 

An  extremely  interesting  excursion,  but  occasionally  not  unattended 
with  danger,  may  be  made  to  the  +  Cresta  Agiuza  (12,703'),  the  saddle 
between  the  Piz  Bernina  and  Piz  Zupo,  the  previous  night  being  passed 
at  the  Boval  hut.  The  view  of  the  Monte  della  Disgrazia  is  of  surpassing 
beauty.  The  ridge  itself  was  scaled  for  the  first  time  in  1865.  —  ^  Piz 
Bernina,  see  p.  330.  —  f  PizRoseg  (12,936'),  extremely  difficult  and 
fatiguing  (guide  60  fr.)  \  the  N.  and  highest  peak  was  ascended  for  the  first 
time  in  1865. 


83.   From  Samaden  to  Naaders.     Lower  Engadine. 

491J2M.  Diligence  from  Samaden  to  Schuls  twice  daily  in  5»|4 — 6M2hr8. 
(with  20  min.  halt  at  Ponte),  fare  12  fr.  30,  coup^  13  fr.  95  c.  \  from  Schuls 
to  Nauders  in  4  hrs.,  fare  5  fr.  76,  coup^  6  fr.  60  c.  This  district,  though 
not  devoid  of  interest,  is  hardly  a  field  for  the  pedestrian,  and  may  easily 
be  surveyed  from  the  diligence.  —  Carriages  may  be  hired  at  the  more 
important  places  at  moderate  charges. 

Below  Samaden  (5600'),  a  grand  panorama;  the  valley,  2  M. 
In  width,  is  enclosed  by  huge  mountains  with  fields  of  snow,  and 
the  broad  glittering  bosoms  of  two  glaciers  are  visible  towards  the  S. 

(I72  M.)  Bevers  (5610')  (Post),  a  handsome  village,  lies  at 
the    foot   of    the    indented   Craata   Mora    (black   ridge,    9636'). 


UW-  T"^*-  ""^      ^^  ' 


>  * 


PONTE.  83.  Route.     335 

M.  Kraettli^  an  experienced  botanist,  sells  dried  specimens  of 
plants.  From  Severs  through  the  Val  Bever  and  Val  Suvretta  to 
St,  Moritz,   see  p.  328. 

(21/4  M.)  Fonte  (5548')  (*Albula^  kept  by  the  schoolmaster 
Gartmann,  a  good  guide,  R.  2,  B.  1,  L.  and  A.  2/4  fr. ;  Kroney 
beyond  the  bridge),  with  an  ancient  castle  of  'the  Albertini  family, 
lies  at  the  beginning  of  the  Albula  route. 

Fix  Uertach  (Albulastock ,  p.  320)  (10,738')  may  be  ascended  in  5  hrs. 
from  Ponte,  the  last  2  hrs.  along  an  almost  perpendicular  crumbling  pre- 
cipice^ view  magnificent  (guide  10  fr.).  —  Piz  Keach  (11,211'),  difficult, 
suitable  for  practised  mountaineers  only,  was  ascended  for  the  first  time 
by  Mr.  Tuckett  in  1864.  The  path  has  recently  been  improved.  —  *Pi* 
Kezzem  (9727'),  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  presents  no  difficulty 
and  commands  a  fine  view. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Inn,  near  the  E.  slope  of  the 
valley,  lies  CampovastOj  or  Camogasc,  at  the  entrance  of  the  narrow 
Val  Chiamuera.  On  9th  March,  1799,  the  Austrians  and  French 
disputed  the  possession  of  the  bridge  for  6  hrs.  on  the  frozen 
surface  of  snow  6'  deep. 

From  Ponte  to  Livigno  (6  hrs.)  a  bridle-path •,  guide  desirable. 
The  route  leads  through  the  Val  Chiamuera  as  far  as  the  point  (li|2  hr.) 
where  the  Val  Lavirvm  diverges  to  the  1.,  and  then  rapidly  ascends  the 


the  1.  It  then  descends  steeply  (with  the  Ortler  group  on  the  r.  and  the 
Oetzthal  snow -mountains  on  the  1.)  into  the  Val  Federia.  After  1  hr.  the 
path  descending  from  the  Gasanna  Pass  (see  below)  to  the  1.  unites  with 
this  route,  and  in  1  hr.  more  the  traveller  reaches  Livigno  (6145')  {Silvestriy 
R.  2,  B.  li|2  fr.),  charmingly  situated  in  the  valley  of  that  name,  on  the 
Spdl.    Thence  to  Bormio,  see  p.  345. 

The  new  road  follows  the  1.  bank  of  the  Inn  to  (8/4  M.) 
Madnlein  (551 5Q  {^H6tel  OuardavaU,  fine  view),  a  picturesque 
village ,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of  Ouardavall  (view ; 
ascent  10  min.),  erected  in  1251  by  Bishop  Volkard  to  'guard 
the  valley'. 

63/4  M.  (I72  M.  from  Madulein)  Zuz  (5548')  (*Schweizerhund ; 
Weisses  Kreuz)^  a  large  village  with  an  old  tower,  said  to  be  the 
remains  of  the  ancient  residence  of  the  Planta  family.  The 
climate  now  becomes  milder,  the  valley  being  sheltered  from  the 
cold  winds  from  the  Maloja,  and  traces  of  cultivation  become 
apparent. 

The  *Fiz  Oriatschouls  (9754'),  easily  ascended  hence  in  3  hrs.,  com- 
mands an  extensive  view.  Descent  by  the  Val  Sulsanna  to  Capella  (see 
below). 

Near  (1  M.)  Scanfs  (5413')  (Traube;  Kreuzjy  a  bridge  crosses 
the  Inn,  but  the  road  continues  on  the  1.  bank,  and  below  (IV2  M.) 
Capella  crosses  the  brook  descending  from  the   Val  Sulsanna. 

To  the  S.E.  opens  the  Yal  Casanna,  through  which  the  Duke  de  Rohan 
inarched  in  1635  into  the  Valtellina.  The  Piz  Casanna  (10,079*),  rising  to 
the  N.  between  the  Casanna  Pass  (8832')  and  the  Val  Trupchum,  commands 
a  beautiful  view.    Ascent  moderately  easy. 

Through  the  Val  Sulsanna  to  Davos  by  the  Scaletta  Pass  or  the  Serlig 
jPasSf  see  p.  316. 


336     Route  83.  LAVIN.  From  Samaden 

The  road  leads  for  a  considerable  distance  through  a  narrow 
and  wooded  gorge  of  the  Inn.  Below  Cinuachel  (5302') ,  near 
Brail  (Kreuz),  a  bridge  termed  the  Punt  Auta  (Pons  Alius)  spans 
a  brook  emerging  from  the  deep  Val  Punt  Auta^  and  separates 
the  Upper  from  the  Lower  Engadine.  The  brooks  descending 
from  the  Vol  Barlaabhg^  the  Val  Pidgestta,  and  the  Val  Urezxa 
are  next  crossed.  At  the  end  of  the  gorge  a  fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  river  and  the  neat  wooden  bridge  by  which  the  road 
crosses  to  the  r.  bank.  The  peculiar  furrowed  snow-roof  of  the 
Piz  Linard  (11,208')  soon  becomes  visible  to  the  N.  Near  (71/2  M.) 
Zerrutz  a  wide  and  partially  cultivated  valley  opens,  in  wliich  the 
scattered  village  with  its  slender  spire  is  situated. 

91/2  M.  Zemets  (49129  (*JBaV,-    Lowe;   Steinbock;    one-horse 

carr.  to  Samaden  8  fr.),  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Spot  and 

the  Inn,    was  almost  entirely  burned  down   on   5th  Sept.  1872. 

The  handsome  church,  dating  from  1623,  and  the  ancestral  castle 

of  the  Planta-Wildenberg  family  escaped. 

From  Zernetz  to  Munster  (24  M.)  a  new  post-road,  completed  in 
1872,  attractive  even  for  pedestrians.  It  gradually  ascends  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  impetuous  J^Sl  through  the  wild  defile  of  La  8erra^  traversing 
several  ravines  (Zail^  LtucTiadura^  and  Spin)^  crossing  the  wooded  hills  of 
Champ  Seek  and  Champ  Long^  and  leads  to  the  (8  M.)  solitary  inn  of  Ilg 
Fuom  (5918')  on  the  Oxen  or  Forno  Pass.  (A  bridle-path  leads  thence  to  the 
S.  through  the  wild  valley  of  the  Spdl  to  Livigno  in  4  hrs.,  p-  836).  The 
road  next  passes  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Bvotsch^  through  which  an  easy 
route  leads  to  Tarasp  (p.  338)  in  6  hrs.,  by  the  Fuorcletta  and  the  Val 
Pla/na;  it  then  leads  past  the  mouth  of  the  Val  da  StavelcTiod  and.  over 
the  marshy  Alp  Buffalora  to  the  (5  M.)  summit  of  the  pass  iSur  80m,  TOTO'), 
from  which  it  descends  through  a  forest  of  Alpine  cedars  to  (S^fz  M.)  Cier/s 
(5459')  (Post)  in  the  upper  Miinsterthal,  or  Val  Mustair^  which  is  watered 
by  the  Rambach,  (i^jz  H.)  Fuldera  (to  the  1.  above  which  lies  Xfi,  p.  389), 
(2  H.)  Valcava,  and  (lif2  M.)  St.  Maria  (^Weiases  Kreux)-  Thence  to 
(2>|4  M.)  MUnsUr  and  (6^12  M.)  Mais,  see  p.  349.  To  Bormio  by  the 
Wormser  Joch,  see  p.  347. 

Below  Zernetz  the  road  recrosses  the  Inn ,  and  enters  the 
Samodoigna,  a  narrow,  pine -clad  gorge,  extending  as  far  as 
(33/4  M.)  Sua  (4688'),  Rom.  Susch  (^Post;  Krone,  both  p6or;  new 
hotel  on  the  Fluela  road  in  course  of  construction).  To  the  r. 
rise  the  Piz  Mezdi  and  Piz  dArpiglia.  The  ruins  of  a  fortification, 
probably  of  Roman  origin,  crown  an  eminence  rising  from  the 
valley.  —  Fluela  Route  to  Davos,  see  p.  315.  Over  the  Vereina 
Pass  to  Klosters,  see  p.  314. 

51/2M.  Lavin  (4721^  (H6tel  Piz  Linard;  *8teinboek;  Weissei 
Kreuz:  Post),  V/2  M.  from  Sus,  at  the  mouth  of  the  ValLa- 
vinuoz,  has  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt  since  a  fire  in  1869 
which  destroyed  68  houses. 

The  Piz  Hezdi  (9593')  may  be  ascended  from  Lavin  or  Siis  in  5  hrs., 
the  last  part  rather  steep  and  fatiguing  (guide  10  fr.).  Magnificent  view 
of  the  Engadine,  the  Silvretta,  etc.  —  The  *Pia  Linard  (11,208'),  the 
highest  peak  of  the  Silvretta  group,  commands  a  strikingly  imposing  pano- 
rama. Ascent  difficult,  and  recommended  to  none  but  experienced  moun- 
taineers (guide  20  fr.).  Bridle-path  to  the  chalet  of  Ohms  (3  hrs.).  —  From 
Lavin  to  Klosters  by  the  Vemela  Pass,  see  p.  314. 


to  NauderB.  ARDETZ.  83.  RouU.     337 

The  T.  bank  of  the  Inn  is  generally  precipitous,  and  affords 
few  sites  for  villages ,  while  on  the  1.  bank ,  on  broad ,  sunny 
heights,  lie  the  ancient  villages  of  Lavin^  Quarda^  and  Ardetz, 
which  are  said  to  be  of  Etruscan  origin,  picturesquely  commanded 
by  towers  and  ruined  castles.  The  entire  valley  is  enclosed  by 
the  snowy  heights  and  glaciers  of  the  Silvretta  on  one  side,  and 
by  a  lower  range  of  densely-wooded  heights  on  the  other.  Number- 
less brooks  descend  from  the  lateral  valleys  to  swell  the  Inn, 
which  flows  through  a  profound  gorge.  Lavin  and  Ardetz  are 
supposed  to  be  Romansch  corruptions  of  Lavinium  and  Ardea, 
two  ancient  towns  near  Rome,  and  to  have  been  so  named  by 
Roman  colonists  who  sought  refuge  here  from  the  Gauls  in 
B.  0.  391. 

Beyond  Lavin  the  road  leads  through  an  archway  hewn  in 
the  rock,  and  near  (2^4  M.)  Omrsan  crosses  the  mouth  of  the 
Val  Tuoi  (p.  314).  A  road  to  the  1.  ascends  to  Guarda  (5413') 
(thence  to  Klostera  over  the  SUvretta  Pass,  see  p.  314).  The  road 
ascends,  skirts  a  barren,  stony  slope  high  above  the  Inn,  passes 
through  another  rocky  archway,  and  enters  a  pleasant  larch-wood, 
beyond  which  it  soon  reaches  (3  M.)  Ardeta  (4826')  (Sonne; 
Krone;  Kreuz),  a  picturesquely  situated  village  with  interesting 
old  houses  and  a  new  church,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of 
Steinsberg  (from  which  the  village  derives  its  German  name). 

A  circuit  by  the  Old  Road  from  Ardetz  to  Schuls  is  recommended  to 
pedestrians.  It  crosses  the  Val  Tasna,  high  above  the  new  road  (fine  waters 
fall),  and  traverses  sunny  pastures  on  the  N.  side  of  the  valley  to  (4»|2  M.) 
Fettan  (5403')  f+Pewa.  Crastan),  whence  a  good  new  road  descends  to  (3  M.) 
Schuls  (p.  338).  Fettan  is  charmingly  situated ,  and  attracts  a  number  of 
summer  visitors.  Invalids  drink,  the  Tarasp  water  here,  and  are  attended  by 
the  bath-doctor  from  Schuls.    The  Muoita  Naluns  and  Pit  OlUna,  see  p.  338. 

To  Vulpera  a  footpath  leads  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Inn  by  the  farm 
of  Asehera  and  (1  hr.)  Valatscha.  Here  it  crosses  the  deep  Val  Pla/na, 
and  then  ascends  to  Chiaposch^  Fontanay  and  (IIJ4  hr.)  Vulpera.  (Or  Vul- 
pera  may  be  reached  direct  by  passing  to  the  1.  of  the  chateau  of  Tarasp^ 
see  p.  338) 

Beyond  Ardetz  the  road  again  traverses  stony  slopes  and  is 
frequently  hewn  through  the  rocks.  From  a  bend  in  the  road  a 
very  picturesque  view  of  the  chateau  of  Tarasp  is  obtained,  while 
to  the  r.  rise  the  Piz  Plafna,  Piz  Pisoc,  St.  Jon,  Lischan,  and 
Ayutz,  which  bound  the  valley  of  the  Inn  on  the  S.  The  road 
then  describes  a  wide  curve,  and  enters  the  profound  Val  Tasna, 
which  it  crosses  by  a  stone  bridge. 

The  wild  Val  Taana  ascends  between  the  Piz  Cotschen  (9938')  on  the 
1.  and  Piz  Minschun  (10,075')  on  the  r.  towards  the  central  mass  of  the 
Silvretta  Mts.,  and  then  divides  into  the  Val  Urezas  to  the  1.  and  the  Val 
Urschai  to  the  r.  From  the  latter,  which  terminates  in  the  Piz  Fatschalv 
(10,430'),  a  difficult  path  crosses  the  glacier-covered  Futschiil  Pass  (on  the 
E.  side  of  the  Augstenherg,  10,597'),  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
huge  Fluchthom  (11,142'),  and  descends  to  the  Tyrolese  Jamthal  and  to 
QallhUr  in  the  Paznaun  (p.  351).  —  The  Piz  Co^tschen  (see  above)  may  be 
ascended  from  Ardetz  without  much  difficulty  in  5  hrs.  \  fine  view. 

The  road  leads  high  above  the  deep  wooded  gorge  of  the  Inn. 
BiEDKKEK,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  22 


338     BouU  aa.  TARASP.  From  Samaden 

To  the  r.  a  picturesque  view  of  the  sotmbre,  pine-clad  VcU 
Plafina,  through  which  the  brook  of  that  name  flows,  with  the 
Piz  Plafna  da  Daint  (10,413')  in  the  background.  In  the  fore- 
ground, on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Inn,  iieii  the  chateau  of  Tarasp. 
Fettan  lies  high  above  the  road  to  the  1.,  but  is  not  visible. 
The  road  then  gradually  descends  to  the  Inn,  passes  at  the  back 
of  the  Bath-house  of  Tarasp  (where  patients  may  alight),  and 
again  ascends  to 

12  M.  Schuls  (3970'),  Kom.  Seiwl,  beautifully  situated,  and 
divided  into  Upper  Schuls  (*H6teL  Konz  %um  Piz  Chiampatsch, 
R.  li/2>  D.  2,  B.  1,  pension  41/2  ^r. ;  Sehwarzer  Adler)  and 
Lower  Schuls  {*H6tel  Belvedere,  R.  2^/2  fr-) ?  between  which 
the  high  road  runs.  Opposite  rises  a  beautiful  range  of  mountains 
extending  from  the  Piz  Lat  to  the  Piz  Plafna.  The  neighbourhood 
abounds  in  mineral  springs  (saline,  sulphureous,  and  chalybeate}, 
and  in  gaseous  cavities  or  'mofettes\ 

About  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  Schuls,  on  the  post-road  (see  above) 
are  the  *Bath8  of  Tarasp,  situated  on  a  plateau  on  the  N.  bank 
of  the  Inn,  and  noted  for  their  mineral  springs.  The  *0urhau8 
is  a  spacious  modern  establishment  with  pleasant  grounds  (R.  3, 
B.  11/4,  D.  3,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.,  pension  from  6  fr.).  Mineral 
springs  and  'mofettes'  abound  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  water 
of  the  Luciusquelle  is  admirably  adapted  for  drinking.  The 
baths  are  supplied  from  a  chalybeate  spring.  Post  and  telegraph 
offices  in  the  house.  Dr.  Killias  of  Coire  is  the  physician. 
A  covered  wooden  bridge  leads  from  the  Curhaus  to  the  springs 
on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Inn  (to  the  r.,  by  the  bridge,  is  a  small 
bazaar),  and  a  good  road  ascends  thence  in  zigzags  to  the  (1/2  M.) 
village  of  Yulpera  (4183'),  prettily  situated  amidst  sunny  pas- 
tures, and  much  frequented  by  patients  (* Pension  Belvedere; 
Alpenrose:  Tell;  Vanoss ;  Hemmi ;  *Zur  Salzquelle;  Winkler). — 
The  direct  road  from  Schuls  to  Vulpera  crosses  the  Inn  by  the 
bridge  mentioned  at  p.  339,  and  the  Clemgia  (p.  339)  near  a 
saw-mill,  and  ascends  gradually,  but  is  not  practicable  for  .car- 
riages. 

Environs.  The  handsome  Castle  of  Tarasp  (4911'),  which  is  now 
in  a  dilapidated  condition,  was  the  residence  of  the  Austrian  governor  down 
to  1815.  At  its  K.  base  lies  the  hamlet  of  Foniana  or  Tarasp  (45%')  (good 
wine  at  the  Capuchin  monastery),  1  hr.  from  Vulpera.  —  Beautiful  view 
from  the  Kreuzherg,  especially  by  evening  light  (l'(4  hr.  from  the  Curhaus). 
—  Pleasant  excursion  from  Vulpera  to  the  sequestered  farm  of  ('ja  hr.) 
Avrona  (4760'),  situated  above  the  deep  Clemgia  gorge  and  at  the  base  of 
the  Piz  Pisoc,  and  to  the  small  dark-green  Schwarze  See^  20  min.  higher, 
whence  the  Piz  Linard  is  well  surveyed.  —  To  Ardetz  a  footpath  by 
Fontana  or  by  Florins  and  Chiaposch,  see  p.  337. 

To  Fettan  from  Schuls  a  good  road,  3  M.  To  the  N.E.  of  Fettan 
(p.  387)  rises  the  grassy  summit  of  the  Muotta  Naluns  (7031'),  ascended 
tlience  in  1*(2  hr.  (or  from  Schuls  in  2  hrs. ;  near  the  top  it  is  advisable 
to  make  a  circuit  to  the  1.,  as  the  direct  ascent  over  the  slippery  grass  is 
fatiguing).  View  limited ;  better  from  the  Piz  Oliina  (7874'),  a  spur  of  the 
Minschun  rising  farther  W.  (reached  without  difficulty  from  Fettan  via  the 


to  Naudera.  SCARL.  83.  Route.     339 

Alp  Laret  in  3  hrs.)-  —  A  more  extensive  panorama  is  enjoyed  from  the 
Pix  Chiampatsch  (9590'))  ascended  from  Schuls  in  4  hrs.  without  much 
difficulty  by  the  Alp  Chiampatsch  (guide  8,  horse  25  fr.). 

The  *JPiz  Liachan  (10, ISO*)  is  the  most  interesting  mountain  near 
Schuls  (ascent  5,  descent  3  hrs.^  guide  15  fr.,  but  unnecessary  for  experienced 
walkers,  as  there  is  a  new 'path  to  the  top).  From  the  bridge  over  the  Inn 
followat  first  the  Scarlthal  road  (see  below),  and  at  the  second  bend  diverge 
to  the  1.  by  a  good  forest-path  to  8t.  Jon^  with  the  ruins  of  a  farm  in  the 
midst  of  green  meadows.  Here  turn  to  the  1.  through  meadows,  skirt  the 
base  of  the  Piz  St.  Jan,  and  ascend  through  wood.  After  1^(2  hr.  the  new 
path  is  reached  in  the  Val  Lischanna,  which  descends  between  the  Piz  St. 
Jon  and  the  Piz  Lischan,  and  is  ascended  to  a  new  Refuge-hut  hewn  in 
the  rock  at  the  head  of  the  valley  (thus  far  S^fj  hrs.).  The  path  then 
ascends  in  long  zigzags  on  a  stony  slope  (above,  to  the  r.,  is  the  Vadret 
Lischanna),  and  passing  several  precipitous  slopes  leads  to  the  iron  vane  on 
the  top  without  difficulty.  Admirable  view :  immediately  in  the  foreground 
rise  the  barren  and  riven  peaks  of  the  Piz  St.  Jon,  Ayutz,  and  Pisoc; 
far  below  lies  the  green  Engadine  from  Lavin  to  Martinsbruck  •■,  to  the  S. 
are  the  Ortler,  the  Alps  of  the  Valtellina,  and  the  Bernina^  in  the  dis- 
tance, to  the  W.,  the  Bernese  Alps,  the  Todi,  and  nearer  the  spectator  the 
Piz  Linard  and  Piz  Buin;  to  the  N.  the  Augstenberg,  Fluchthorn,  and 
the  distant  Wettersteingebirge  with  the  Zugspitze^  to  the  E.  the  Oetzthal 
snow  -  mountains  with  the  Wildspitze  and  Weisskugel,  and  farther  dis- 
tant the  fantastic  Fassa  Alps.  —  Good  mountaineers  are  recommended  to 
descend  across  the  Lisehanna  Glacier  to  the  Val  Seesvenna  and  Scarl  (see 
below). 

The  Piz  Pisoc  (10,426')  (8  hrs.,  guide  50  fr.)  and  Piz  Pla/na  da  Daint 
(10,413')  (10  hrs.,  guide  30  fr.)  are  recommended  to  practised  mountaineers 
only.  The  Piz  St.  Jon  (9980')  (8  hrs.,  guide  15  fr.),  Piz  Minschun  (9846') 
(8  hrs.,  18  fr.),  and  Piz  Foraz  (10,151')  (7  hrs.,  15  fr.)  are  all  less  difficult. 

From  Schuls  to  St.  Maria  in  the  Afilnsterthal,  through  the 
Scarlthal,  an  interesting  walk  of  7»(2  hrs.  (guide  12  fr.,  unnecessary). 
Follow  the  road  ascending  to  the  S.  from  the  bridge  over  the  Inn,  and 
soon  entering  larch-wood,  to  the  plateau  on  which  St,  Jon  (see  above)  lies 
farther  to  the  left.  Opposite,  high  on  the  1.  side  of  the  profound  gorge  of 
the  Clemgia,  which  forms  the  lower  part  of  the  Val  Scarl,  lies  the  farm 
of  Avrona  (see  above).  The  road,  which  is  bad  at  places,  gradually  de- 
scends through  wood  into  the  valley,  enclosed  by  the  huge  furrowed  slopes 
of  the  Piz  Pisoc  on  the  r.  and  the  Piz  Si.  Jon  and  Piz  Madlein  on  the  1., 
and  frequently  crosses  the  Clemgia,  the  inundations  caused  by  which  are 
often  very  destructive.  After  2  hrs,  the  sequestered  Val  Minger  diverges 
to  the  r.,  witii  the  Piz  Foraz  (see  above)  in  the  background.  To  the  1.  is 
the  Val  del  Boch.  The  road  then  leads  past  a  deserted  foundry  to  (1  hr.) 
Scarl  (5948')  (Adler,  poor),  a  hamlet  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Seesvenna, 
which  merits  a  visit  (route  by  Christannes  to  Uina  and  Cruseh,  see  p.  840). 
To  the  1.,  1(2  hr.  above  Scarl,  a  bridle-path  leads  over  the  Gruschetta 
{Scarljdchl,  7598')  and  through  the  pretty  Val  Avigna  in  3  hrs.  to  Tauffers 
(p.  349).  The  road  terminates  here.  The  bridle-path  crosses  the  valley, 
which  here  expands  (beautiful  Alpine  cedars),  and  passes  the  chalets  of 
Astas  da  Dora  and  da  Daint,  and  leads  between  the  Piz  d'Astas  (9803')  on 
the  r.  and  the  Piz  Murtera  (9836')  on  the  1.  to  the  Costainas  Pass  (7385'), 
2>|2  hrs.  from  Scarl.  It  then  descends  to  the  extensive  Alpine  farm  of 
Champatsch  (7034'),  which  belongs  to  the  parish  of  Valcava,  skirts  the  pro- 
jecting rock  of  La  Durezza,  and  leads  through  wood  (avoid  steep  path  to 
Cierfs,  descending  to  the  r.)  to  Lit  (6292')  (*lnn),  a  hamlet  in  a  sunny  and 
sheltered  situation,  and  sometimes  visited  as  a  summer  retreat,  and  thence 
by  Lussai,  crossing  the  Rambach,  to  Furom,  a  solitary  house  on  the  road 
halfway  between  Fuldera  and  Valcava.  Thence  to  St.  Maria  (6  M.  from 
Costainas),-  see  p.  336. 

Below  Schuls  a  new   bridge   to  the  r.  crosses  the  Inn  to  the 

hamlet  of  Pradella.     The  road  follows  the  1.  hank.     On  the  hill 

to   the   1.    is   the   considerable   and   pi-cturesquc  village   of  Sins, 

22* 


340     RouU  83.  MARTINSBRUCK. 

Rom.  8ent  (4701 '"j  (*Rhaetia},  which  is  reached  by  a  road  from 
Upper  Schuls  in  1  hr.  At  (33/4  M.)  Crusch  (Kreiiz)  the  Val 
dPVina  opens  on  the  r.,  through  which  an  attractive  route  (7  hrs., 
guide  advisable  for  inexperienced  walkers)  leads  by  8ur  Sags 
(7733')  and  through  the  Schlingathal  totals  (p.  349). 

Before  reaching  (6  M.)  Bemus,  Rom.  Ramuosch  (402^'),  which, 
with  the  ruined  castle  of  Tschanuff  (Canitiea),  lies  high  up  on 
the  1.,  the  road  crosses  a  deep  ravine  of  the  Val  Sinestra.  The 
valley  contracts;  to  the  I.  is  the  ruin  of  Serviezel.  In  the  narrow 
Val  d^Aasa  opposite  (fine  waterfall  at  the  entrance),  2  hrs.  farther 
up,  is  the  intermittent  Fontana  Chistaina ,  which  flows  once  in 
3  hrs.  only.  Near  it  is  a  stalactite  cavern  which  merits  a  visit. 
A  fine  view  is  soon  disclosed  of  the  loftily  situated  ScMeins ; 
above  it  to  the  1.  the  MutUer  (10,823')  and  the  indented 
Stammer-Spitz  (10,682');  to  the  r.  is  the  Piz  Lat  (9190').  The 
r.  bank  of  the  Inn ,  here  a  considerable  stream,  is  clothed  with 
dark  woods. 

The  next  village  (41/2  M.)  is  Strada,  Near  (3  M.)  Martini- 
brack  (3343'),  Rom.  FutU  Martina  (Lowe),  the  landscape  becomes 
grander.  The  bridge  over  the  Inn  forms  the  boundary  between 
Switzerland  and  the  Tyrol  (Austrian  custom-house).  On  the  1. 
are  the  ruins  of  another  castle  named  Serviezel.  (A  path  on  the 
I.  bank  of  the  Inn  leads  hence  in  V/2  hr.  to  the  very  interesting 
*  Firistermunz  Pass ,  high  above  which  is  the  Hoch  Finstermiinz 
post-road,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  p.  350.)  The  new  road 
from  this  point  to  Nauders,  completed  in  1872,  winds  round  the 
hill  which  separates  the  valley  of  the  Inn  from  that  of  the  Stille 
Bach  (fine  retrospective  view  of  the  Engadine;  opposite,  to  the 
N.,  rises  the  Piz  Mondin^  10,377'),  and  then  descends  gradually 
to  (3  M.  from  Martinsbruck) 

153/4  M.  Naaders  (p.  350.  No  tolerable  inn  between  Schuls 
and  Nauders. 

84.    From  Samaden  over  the  Bernina  to  Tirano. 

From  Tirano  through  the  Valtellina  to  Colico* 
Comp.  Map^  p.  324. 

34>|4  M.  Diligence  from  Samaden,  from  15th  June  to  15th  Sept., 
once  daily  to  Poschiavo  in  5M3  hrs.  (8  fr.  60,  coupi^  10  fr.  80  c),  to  Tirano 
in  8>J2  hrs.  (12  fr.  60,  coupe  15  fr.  40  c.)  (between  Poschiavo  and  Le  Prese 
also  an  omnibus^  40  c).  This  route,  although  somewhat  long,  is  also 
recommended  to  pedestrians. 

The  Bernina  Pans  (road  completed  in  1863),  the  only  route  over 
the  Bernina-chain  (p.  330)  practicable  for  carriages,  is  the  principal  line  of 
communication  between  the  Engadine  and  the  Valtellina ,  and  is  much 
frequented  even  in  winter. 

From  Samaden  to 

41/2  M.  Fontresina)  see  p.  330;  thence  to  the  Morteratseh 
Qlacier^  p.  332.  The  new  road  soon  begins  to  ascend,  and  affords 
a  magnificent   *survey  of   the  Morteratseh  Glacier,    imbedded  be- 


OSPIZIO  BERNINA.  84.  BouU.     34  J 

tween  the  Piz  Chalchang  and  the  Mont  Pers,  with  its  huge 
moraine  and  the  spacious  archway  of  ice  from  which  the  brook 
issues,  and  overshadoined  by  the  dazzling  Piz  Palu,  Piz  Bernina, 
Morteratsch,  and  Tschierva.  About  5  M.  from  Pontresina  are 
the  solitary  Bernina  Houses  (6735'^  (Iwn)   at   the   mouth  of  the 

Val  del  Fain. 

The  Val  del  Fain,  or  Heuthal^  a  valley  5  SI.  in  length,  interesting  to 
botanists,  is  traversed  by  a  bridle-path  which  crosses  La  Stretta  (8143'), 
the  saddle  between  the  Piz  della  Stretta  (10,197')  and  the  Piz  ifUs  Lets 
(10,013') ,  and  descends  steeply  into  the  valley  of  the  SpOl  to  Livigno 
(p.  335)  (6  hrs.,  guide  unnecessary).  —  Ascent  of  the  Piz  Languard  (p.  ^1) 
by  La  Pischa^  suitable  for  good  mountaineers  only. 

Beyond  the  Bernina  houses  the  old  bridle-path,  by  which  no 
saving  is  effected ,  diverges  to  the  r.  from  the  new  road ,  and 
leads  on  the  1.  side  of  the  brook  by  the  Alp  Bondo  to  the  pass. 
The  road  crosses  the  brook  and  ascends  gradually  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  valley,  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Minur  (to  the  1.  rise 
the  Piz  Alv  and  the  Piz  Lagalp,  to  the  r.  the  stony  slopes  of  the 
Diavolezza).  The  zone  of  trees  is  now  quitted.  About  1  M.  from 
the  summit  the  road  passes  three  small  lakes ,  the  small  Lago 
Minore  (Rom.  Lej  Minur)  and  Lago  Nero  (Rom.  Lej  iVair),  and 
the  larger  Lago  Bianco  (Rom.  Lej  Alv")  (7316'),  2  M.  in  length, 
which  abounds  in  fish.  The  narrow  barrier  separating  these  lakes 
is  the  watershed ,  or  culminating  point ,  between  the  waters  of 
Lago  Nero,  which  descend  to  the  Inn,  and  those  of  Lago  Bianco 
which  feed  the  Adda.  The  'black  lake'  contains  spring- water, 
while  *the  white'  is  supplied  from  the  glaciers;  hence  the  dif- 
ference in  colour.  They  are  frozen  over  from  t  e  beginning  of 
Nov.  till  the  middle  of  June. 

The  Footpath  to  Poichiavo ^  which  effects  a  saving  of  1  hr.,  and 
is  more  picturesque  than  the  high  road,  is  somewhat  fatiguing.  It  ascends 
to  the  r.  at  the  beginning  of  the  Lago  Minore ,  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the 
Lago  Nero  and  Bianco  (to  the  r.  the  extensive  Cambrena  Olacier  at  the 
base  of  the  Piz  Cambrena^  11,834')  and  crosses  the  height  to  the  r. ,  sud- 
denly approaching  the  magnificent  *PalH  Olacier  y  separated  from  the 
spectator  by  a  narrow  valley  only  (i^fz  hr.  from  the  Bernina  road).  The 
path  traverses  the  Alp  Orilm  (comp.  p.  332),  an  eminence  opposite  the 
glacier,  commanding  a  view  of  the  villages  of  Poschiavo  and  Le  Prese 
in  the  ravine  below.  The  path  now  descends  rapidly  through  the  wood  to 
the  Alpine  hamlet  of  Cavaglia  (SSSCK)  (where  milk  may  be  procured),  crosses 
some  pasture-land,  and  re-enters  a  wild  district.  The  Cavagliasco,  dashing 
through  narrow  gorges,  is  cwjssed  by  a  bridge,  where  the  pedestrian  must 
turn  to  the  r. ;  ♦view  of  the  valley  and  lake  of  Poschiavo ;  finally  a  long 
descent  by  a  newly  constructed  bridle-path. 

The  new  road  turns  to  the  1.  by  the  Lago  Nero,  crosses  the 

brook  which   descends  from  the   Piz  Lagalp  to  the  Lago  Bianco, 

and  reaches  (4  M.  from  the  Bernina  houses)  the  Ospizio  Bernina, 

bearing  the  inscription    '  Dieu  et  Patrie'   (HdUl,   R.  3,  B.   li/g. 

L.  and  A.   I1/2  fr.)'  beautifully  situated   above  the   Lago  Bianco 

and  opposite  the   Cambrena   Glacier,  and  a  favourite  point  for 

excursions  from  Pontresina  and  St.  Moritz  (carriages,  see  pp.  328, 

330).     At  the  back  of  the  hotel  is  the  small  Lago  della  Croee. 


342     Route  84.  BERNINA  PASS.  From  Scanaden 

A  rocky  emineoce  (S3^)  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  lake,  whieh  is  eaflily 
ascended  in  >{<  hr.,  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  ramifications  of  the 
valley  towards  the  S.  —  The  ♦Pis  Campaccio  (8533'),  a  picturesque  moun- 
tain to  the  S.  of  the  hospice,  rising  perpendicularly  on  the  E.  side, 
ascended  by  a  good  path  in  1  hr.,  commands  a  remarkably  fine  view.  — 
The  Pi«  LagflJp  (9718')  to  the  N.  (see  above)  also  affords  a  fine  view 
(ascent  2i|2  hrs.,  guide  advisable). 

A  few  paces  from  the  hospice  a  new  path  diverges  to  the  r.  from  the 
old  bridle-path,  skirting  the  Logo  Bianco,  crossing  its  discharge  by  a 
wooden  bridge,  and  leading  to  the  (lijs  hr.)  Palii  Glacier  (p.  341). 

Route  across  the  Cambrena  Glacier  and  the  Rovano  Pass  to  the  Fellaria 
Chalets  very  fatiguing;  good  guides  necessary,  see  p.  334. 

A  few   paces  to   the   E.    of  the   hospice  is   the   culminating 

point  of  the  Bemina   Pais  (7657').     Beyond  it  the  road  passes 

through  two  galleries   and   then  descends   in  windings  (many  of 

which  may  be   avoided   by  means  of   short  cuts)  to    the  inns  of 

(3  M.)    La   Motta  (6509')    and   (8/4  M.)    La  Rosa  (or    'In    der 

Rose')  (6161'). 

To  the  "S.  near  La  Motta  opens  the  Val  Agone,  containing  extensive 
strata  of  gypsum  and  alabaster,  through  which  a  narrow  road  leads  by  the 
Forcola  (7638')  to  (6  hrs.)  Livigno  (p.  335).  To  the  1.,  about  *\^  H.  beyond 
the  pass,  the  path  descends  from  the  Val  del  Fain  and  La  Stretta  (see 
above). 

Where  the  road  passes  to  the  E.  slope  of  the  mountain ,  a 
fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  upper  part  of  the  narrow  valley  of 
the  Poschiavino,  down  to  Poschiavo.  The  road  crosses  the  brook 
descending  from  the  Val  Viola  and  reaches  the  bottom  of  the 
valley  at  (2^4  M.)  Piaeiadella. 

Through  the  Val  Viola  to  Bormio  (p.  345)  &— 10  hrs.,  an  inter- 
esting walk;  guide  unnecessary  in  fine  weather.  Travellers  from  the 
Bemina  need  not  descend  to  Pisciadella,  but  take  a  footpath  to  the  1.  im- 
mediately below  La  Rosa,  first  crossing  pastures,  then  gradually  ascending 
through  wood  along  the  E.  slope  of  the  mountain,  and  at  (>{«  hr.)  Salva 
entering  the  Val  Viola  (termed  in  its  lower  part  Valle  di  Campo).  fieyond 
this  point  the  route  is  by  a  bad  road  (keep  to  the  1.  in  cases  of  doubt), 
passing  the  poor  chalets  of  La  Tunta  and  Plan  Sena,  where  the  path  from 
Pisciadella  comes  up  from  the  r.,  to  (1  hr.)  Lungacqua,  the  highest  chalet 
or  'malga\  To  the  N.  lies  the  Val  Mera,  with  the  beautiful  Como  di 
Campo  (10,843').  From  this  point  to  the  Val  Viola  Fasa  (8071')  the  path 
is  occasionally  ill-defined  (guide  desirable  for  inexperienced  travellers), 
leading  at  first  through  Alpine  cedar-woods,  in  which  several  beautiful  little 
blue  lakes  are  situated  to  the  r.  \  to  the  S.  are  the  precipices  of  the  Como 
di  Saoseo  and  the  Como  di  Dosdk.  Beyond  the  wood  the  path  again  be- 
comes distinct  and  gradually  descends  to  (l^ji  hr.)  the  first  chalet  in  the 
Val  Viola  Bormina,  as  the  E.  branch  of  the  valley  is  termed  to  distinguish 
it  from  the  W.  arm  (Val  Viola  Posehiavina).  The  path  now  leads  high 
along  the  K.  slope  of  the  valley,  afibrding  beautiful  views  of  the  Vol  di 
Dosdi  to  the  r.,  with  the  Pizzo  di  Dosdi  and  the  Cima  di  Logo  Spaltno 
surrounded  by  extensive  masses  of  snow,  and  leads  past  several  houses 
and  bams  to  (2  hrs.)  S.  Carlo,  a  loftily-situated  village  (to  the  r.  the 
Monte  S.  Colombano,  p.  346).  A  paved  path  descends  hence  to  the  Val  di 
Dentro  and  Semogo  (route  to  Livigno  by  Foscagno,  see  p.  345),  and  by 
holaccia  (Osteria  with  good  wine  by  the  bridge)  to  (2  hrs.)  Premadio.  The 
Adda  is  then  crossed,  and  Bormio  is  reached  in  1(2  hr.  by  the  road  to  the 
r.,  or  the  New  Baths  (p.  346)  in  1/4  hr.  by  that  to  the  I. 

As  Poschiavo  is  approached  (7^2  M.  from  the  Rosa,  IIV4  ^« 
from  the  hospice),  a  view  is  obtained  to  the  r.  of  the  glacier 
which  descends  from  the  Pi%zo  di   Verona  (11,358'). 


to  Colieo.  POSCHIAVO.  84.  RouU.     34^ 

191/2  M.  Posehiavo  (33170,  Ger.  Puschlav  (*CroeeaUa  Posta, 
formerly  a  chateau,  also  post-offlce ;  Hotel  Albrieei ;  Hosig's  Brew- 
ery) y  a  small  town  with  a  population  of  2893  (one-third  Prot.), 
possesses  several  handsome  houses.  The  traffic  and  manufactures 
are  considerable;  language  Italian.  The  Rom.  Cath.  Church  dates 
from  1494 ,  but  the  tower  is  much  more  ancient.  The  charnel- 
house  bears  the  inscription:  ^Noisiamo  stato  in  figura  come  voi, 
e  vol  aarete  in  sepultura  come  noi.  Oggi  son  vivo  e  dimani 
morto\     The  Prot.  Church  is  a  handsome  building. 

The  ^Pizzo  Saualbo  (9377'),  to  the  E.  of  Posehiavo,  a  fatiguing  ascent 
of  5  hrs.,  affords  a  magnificent  mountain-panorama:  W.  the  Bernina,  E. 
the  Ortler,  S.E.  the  Adamello. 

The  road  crosses  the  Poschiavino  river,  passes  S.  Antonio, 
traverses  the  picturesque  level  valley,  and  leads  to  (3  M.)  Le  Prese 
(3156'),  a  watering-place  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the  Logo  di  Po- 
sehiavo. The  *Bath  -  establishment  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
lake,  and  affords  good  accommodation  (R.  1 — 3,  B.  1,  S.  inc.  W. 
2,  A.  V2  fr- ;  pension  inc.  W.  6  fr.).  The  baths  (1  fr.  20  c. ; 
sulphureous  water  heated  by  steam),  are  constructed  of  yellow 
Italian  marble.  Delightful  place  of  sojourn,  with  Italian  climate,  a 
favourite  resort  of  the  Milanese.  Diligence-communication  daily  in 
both  directions ;  omnibus  (40  c.)  to  Posehiavo ;  other  conveyances 
also  to  be  procured.  The  lake,  which  abounds  in  trout,  and  is, 
strictly  speaking,  a  basin  of  the  Poschiavino,  is  2  M.  in  length. 
The  road  skirts  its  W.  bank,  passing  the  remnants  of  fortifications, 
destroyed  in  1814,  and  a  cross,  erected  to  the  memory  of  three 
brothers  who  perished  here  by  an  avalanche  in  1836.  At  the  S. 
extremity  is  the  village  of  Meschino. 

The  road  now  descends  through  a  narrow  and  rocky  ravine, 
passing  a  succession  of  waterfalls ,  till  Madonna  di  Tirano  (see 
below)  is  reached.  In  the  background  a  glimpse  of  the  Val- 
tellina. 

Brusio  (2477'),  Rom.  Brus  or  Briisch  (^Trippi,  moderate), 
11/2  M.  from  the  lake,  6^/4  M.  from  Posehiavo,  3  M.  from  Ma- 
donna di  Tirano,  the  last  Swiss  village  of  importance  (pop.  1146, 
one-third  Prot.),  possesses  a  Rom.  Cath.  and  a  Prot.  church. 

The  road  traverses  plantations  of  walnut  and  chestnut-trees, 
and  descends   (picturesque  waterfall   of  the  Sajento  to  the  r.)  to 

9  M.  Gampo  Gologno  (1759'),  near  the  ^Confine  Svizzero%  or 
Swiss  frontier,  where  the  vineyards  commence.  The  Italian  custom- 
house is  near  the  ancient  fort  Piatta  Mala.  At  (^/^  M.)  Madonna 
di  Tirano  (*8.  Michele)  the  ValtelUna,  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Adda,  is  reached.  This  district,  which  till  1797  belonged  to  the 
Canton  of  Oraubiinden  (Grisons) ,  is  frequently  devastated  by 
inundations.  The  fertile  slopes  by  which  it  is  enclosed  produce 
excellent  red  wine.  The  road  unites  here  with  the  Stelvio  and 
Colieo  route  (R.  85),  on  which,  3/4  M.  from  Madonna,  is  situated 


344     RouU  S4.  SONDRIO. 

IV2  M.  Tinmo  (1509')  (Due  Torti,    by   <lie   post-offloe),   % 

small   town   containing   old   palaces  of  the  Visconti ,    Pallaviciti, 

and   Salis   families.     In   the    background ,    £.    of  Tirano ,    rises 

Monie  MorUrolo. 

To  Colieo  ih rough  the  Valiellina  46  M.  ^  diligence  daily  in 
T^js — 8  hrs.  \  one-horse  carr.  to  Sondrio  8  fr.,  thence  to  Horbegno  also  8  fr., 
Morbegno  to  Colieo  5  fr.     Travellers  coming   from  the  Bernina  need  not 

Proceed  to  Tirano  unless  they  fail  to  obtain  a  conveyance  at  Madonna  di 
'irano.  This  road,  the  continuation  of  the  Stelvio  route  (R.  85),  although 
picturesque,  is  hardly  suitable  for  the  pedestrian. 

At  Tresenda ,  ^ji  M.  below  Madonna  di  Tirano ,  a  bridge  crosses  the 
Adda  to  the  new  road  wbich  leads  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  mountain  by  the 
PasM  cfAprtca  (4049')  to  Edolo ,  and  through  the  Voile  Camonica  to  the 
Lago  d'Iseo  and  Brescia  (comp.  Baedeker"'*  N.  Italy).  The  old  watch- 
tower  of  Teglio  on  the  height  gives  the  name  to  the  valley  (  Vol  Teglino). 

18  M.  Sondrio  (1198')  (*Po8ta;  Maddalena)^  situated  on  the  impetuous 
Malero^  is  the  capital  of  the  Valtellina.  The  brook,  wbich  has  frequently 
endangered  the  town,  now  ilows  through  a  broad  artificial  channel.  The 
extensive  building  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town ,  formerly  a  nunnery ,  is 
now  a  prison  \  the  castle  of  the  former  governors  is  employed  as  barracks. 

Farther  to  the  W.  rises  the  church  of  Sauella ,  built  on  a  rocky 
eminence  and  supported  by  galleries.  This  luxuriant  district,  producing 
figs  ,  grapes ,  pomegranates  ,  etc. ,  is  commanded  by  the  snow  -  peaks  of 
Monte  della  Disgrazia  (12,057'),  one  of  the  Bernina  range. 

16  M.  Morbegno  (*Regina  d' Inghilterra,  or  PMta)  (868')  is  noted  for  ita 
production  of  silk.  The  lower  part  of  the  Valtellina  is  rendered  unhealthy 
by  the  inundations  of  the  Adda.     Before  reaching 

12  M.  Colieo,  the  Splugen  route  is  joined  (see  p.  368). 

85.     From  Tirano  to  Naaden  by  the  Stelvio. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  334. 

86*)2  M.  Messagerie  from  Tirano  to  Bormio  daily  in  6  hrs.  —  Dili' 
gence  daily  (from  the  middle  of  June  to  the  end  of  Sept.)  from  Bormio 
over  the  Stelvio  to  Eyrs  in  9i|2  hrs.  (fare  6  fl.),  starting  from  the  Baths 
at  6.  30  a.  m.,  arriving  at  S.  Maria  at  11.  15,  Franzenshohe  at  1.  15,  Trafoi 
at  2.  15,  Prad  at  3.  30,  and  Eyrs  at  4  p.  m.  —  Diligence  daily  from  Eyrs 
to  Nauders  in  4,  to  Landeck  (p.  351)  in  9^2  hrs.  —  Extra-post  with  two 
horses  from  Tirano  to  the  Baths  of  Bormio  42  fr. 

The  Stelvio  Road,  the  highest  in  Europe,  9045'  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  constructed  by  the  Austrian  government  in  1820 — 25,  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  in  Europe  in  an  engineering  point  of  view ,  as  well 
as  from  the  imposing  character  of  the  scenery ,  which  comprises  the  rich 
vine-clad  slopes  of  the  Valtellina  and  the  huge  glaciers  of  Monte  Cristallo 
and  the  Ortler.  In  spring ,  on  the  melting  of  the  snow ,  the  devastations 
caused  by  avalanches  become  apparent,  the  road  being  frequently  entirely 
carried  away,  or  covered  with  huge  masses  of  rock.  From  the  beginning 
of  June  to  the  end  of  September  the  passage  is  unattended  with  danger, 
but  after  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  the  journey  should  be  postponed  for  a 
day  or  two.  On  the  Tyrolese  side  the  road  was  much  neglected  after  the 
cession  of  Lombardy,  but  is  now  entirely  repaired. 

Distances.  From  the  Baths  of  Bormio  to  S.  Maria  12  M.,  Stelvio 
Pass  2»|2,  Franzenshohe  4»J2,  Trafoi  4>|2,  Prad  6  M.  (From  S.  Maria  over 
the  Wormser  Joch  to  S.  Maria  in  the  Miinsterthal  3  hrs. ,  Munster  s|4, 
Tauffers  ijz,  Mais  2^9  hrs.) 

The  road  ascends  from  Tirano  (see  above)  through  vineyards 
to  the  Stmio  region  of  the  valley.  To  the  N.  rises  the  precipitous 
Piz  Maauccio  (8740') ,    a  landslip  from  which  in  1807  blockaded 


J 


BORMIO.  86.  RouU.     345 

tlie  narrow  bed  of  the  Adda,  and  converted  the  populous  and 
fertile  valley  into  a  lake.  At  (2  M.)  Mazzo  the  road  crosses  the 
Adda,  and  at  the  large  village  of  Grosotto  (Leone  d'Oro)  the 
Roasco ,  which  descends  from  the  Val  Orosina ,  and  then  the 
Adda  twice  again  beyond  Grosio. 

12  M.  Bolladore  (2838')  (*Po8ta).  On  the  W.  slope  of  the 
mountain  stands  the  picturesque  church  of  Sondalo.  The  valley 
now  contracts,  the  southern  character  of  the  vegetation  ceases; 
along  the  bottom  of  the  valley  dashes  the  grey  glacier-water  of  the 
Adda.  About  5  M.  from  Bolladore,  the  defile  of  La  Serra  di  Mo- 
rignone,  1  M.  in  length,  separates  the  Yaltellina  from  the  terri- 
tory of  Bormio ,  the  ^Patse  Freddo"  ('cold  region').  At  the 
entrance  to  the  r.  are  the  fragments  of  an  old  fortification,  and 
beyond  them  the  ruins  of  a  more  modern  building.  The  Ponte  del 
Diavolo  was  the  scene  of  a  sharp  skirmish  between  Austrian  and 
Garibaldian  troops,  June  26th,  1859.  At  the  farther  extremity  of 
the  defile  stands  a  group  of  houses  (Morignone)  in  a  green  dale 
(Valle  di  Soito);  the  church  is  situated  on  the  mountain  far 
above.     The  next  group  of  houses  is  S.  Antonio. 

Beyond  the  village  of  Ceppina  opens  the  broad  green  valley 
(Piano)  of  Bormio ,  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains ,  wooded  to  a 
considerable  height,  and  partially  covered  with  snow.  The  road 
traverses  the  valley  in  a  straight  line,  crosses  the  Frodolfo,  which 
unites  with  the  Adda  below  the  bridge,  and  turns  towards  the  N.E.  to 

12  M.  Bormio  (40160,  Ger.  Worms  (^Poata;  Gius.  Cola,  in 
the  market;  a  pleasanter  resting-place  is  the  New  Bath,  IV2  M. 
above  Bormio,  see  below),  an  old-fashioned  little  town  of  Italian 
character,  with  several  dilapidated  towers,  situated  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Val  Furva,  and  sheltered  from  the  N.  winds  by  lofty 
limestone  rocks.     Bormio  is  noted  for  its  honey. 

On  the  Frodolfo  in  the  Val  Furva^  3  hrs.  to  the  S.E.  of  Bormio,  is 
situated  S.  Oateiina  (5912'),  a  bath- establishment  with  about  50  rooms, 
unpretending,  but  tolerably  comfortable.  The  strong  chalybeate  water  is 
largely  exported.  One-horse  carr.  from  the  New  Bath  to  8.  Caterina  and 
back  12  fr. 

The  Konte  Oonflnale  (11,076')  (ascended  without  difficulty  from  S. 
Caterina  in  5  hrs.)  commands  an  admirable  survey  of  the  Ortler  chain : 
W.  the  Bcrnina,  S.W.  the  Mte.  della  Disgrazia,  S.  the  Adamello,  etc. 

From  Bormio  to  Livigno  a  pleasant  walk  of  6*|2  hrs.,  by  a  bridle- 
path^ guide  unnecessary.  At  Premadio  it  crosses  the  Adda  and  leads  in 
the  Val  di  Dentro  to  (1>|2  hr.)  Isolaccia  (p.  342).  On  the  slope  to  the  r. 
lies  the  hamlet  of  Pedenosso;  above  it,  on  the  saddle  of  the  Monte  delle 
Scale,  rise  two  towers  by  which  this  pass,  the  Scale  di  Fraele,  was  once 
defended.  (Route  by  this  pass  to  S.  Oiacomo  di  Fraele,  Val  Mora,  and 
over  the  Buffalora  and  Forno  (Ofener)  passes  to  Zerneiz  or  Schuls  in 
10  hrs. ;  guide  desirable,  20  fr.)  Beyond  Isolaccia  the  path  ascends  on  the 
1.  bank  of  the  brook;  (>(«  hr.)  Semogo,  opposite  which,  high  up  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Val  Viola,  stands  the  church  of  S.  Carlo  (Val  Viola  Pass  to 
the  Bernina,  see  p.  342);  from  the  (1  hr.)  summit  of  the  Foicagno  Pass 
(689(y),  with  two  small  green  lakes,  a  pleasing  retrospect  is  obtained  of 
the  Val  Viola  and  the  8.  mountains  of  the  Ortler  group.  Descent  to  Tre- 
padle  1  hr. ;   thence  to  the  W.,  over  the  hill,  to  Livigno   lijg  hr.     From 


346     Route  86.  BATHS  OF  BORltflO.         From  Tirano 

Livigno  to  the  Bernina  road  by  La  Stretta  or  the  Forcola,  see  pp.  341,  342; 
to  Ponte  by  the  Lavirum  Pass,  see  p.  335 ',  to  Scanfs  by  the  Casanna  Pass, 
see  p.  S35i  to  Ofen  through  the  Spolthal,  see  p.  336. 

At  Bonnio  the  windings  of  the  new  road  begin.  The  •iTew 
Bath  (Bagni  Nuovi ,  4580Q ,  a  handsome  building  situated  on 
rising  ground,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  Bormio  and  the 
surrounding  mountains ,  was  destroyed  hy  Garibaldian  troops  in 
1859,  restored  by  a  Swiss  company,  and  afterwards  purchased 
together  with  the  old  bath  by  M.  de  Planta  of  Samaden  (R.  21/2, 
B.  V/2,  L.  and  A.  1^/4  fr.).  It  is  much  frequented  in  Jufy 
and  August,  and  remains  open  till  the  middle  of  October.  The 
water  (93 — 100°)  is  conveyed  by  pipes  from  the  springs,  situated 
1  M,  higher,  near  the  Old  Bath  (Bagni  Vecchi)^  which  is  perched 
on  the  face  of  the  rock ,  and  affords  good  accommodation.  The 
footpath  from  the  new  to  the  old  bath  is  shorter  than  the  road. 
The  springs,  which  are  mentioned  by  Pliny,  rise  in  the  dolomite 
rocks ,  high  above  the  profound  gorge  of  the  Adda.  The  old 
baths  hewn  in  the  rock,  termed  the  'Roman  Bath',  'Ladies' 
Bath",  etc.  are  interesting. 

The  Stelvio  road  begins  at  the  new  bath  in  a  long  curve, 
command 'Ug  beautiful  retrospects  of  the  valley  from  Bormio  to 
Ceppina;  to  the  S.W.  rises  the  Piz  8.  Colombano  (96550,  the 
Cima  di  Piazza^  and  the  Piz  Redasco;  to  the  S.E.  are  the  Cime 
di  Oohetta  and  the  Piz  Tresero  at  the  head  of  the  Val  Furva, 
and  to  the  W.  lies  the  Val  Viola  (p.  342).  Near  the  old  bath 
the  road  crosses  a  wooden  bridge,  which  was  destroyed  by  the 
Austrians  in  1859  (a  long  inscription  on  the  rock  to  the  r.  com- 
memorates the  construction  of  the  road)  and  passes  through  a 
short  tunnel  (Oalleria  dei  Bagni)  j  beyond  which  the  old  bath 
lies  below  the  road  on  the  1.  On  the  farther  side  of  the  deep 
gorge  of  the  Adda  rise  the  bold  precipices  of  the  Monte  delta 
Scala  (p.  345). 

To  the  1.,  farther  on,  the  Adda  emerges  from  the  wild  Val 
Fraele  (a  considerable  brook  which  issues  from  the  rocks  below 
the  Val  Fraele  is  sometimes  erroneously  termed  the  source  of 
the  Adda).  A  succession  of  galleries,  partly  of  wood,  and  partly 
hewn  in  the  rocks,  constructed  for  protection  against  avalanches 
and  waterfalls,  convey  the  road  through  the  defile  (II  Diroc- 
camento)  to  the  Cantoniera  di  Piattq  Martina  (59719,  a  hospice 
for  travellers,  and  the  Cantoniera  al  piede  di  Spondalonga  (6906'), 
which  was  destroyed  by  the  Garibaldians  in  1859.  On  the  W. 
side  of  the  valley  rises  the  precipitous  Monte  Braulio  (9790'). 
The  road  crosses  the  brook  issuing  from  the  Val  Vitelli  by  the 
Ponte  Alto  and  ascends  in  numerous  windings  (giravolte),  which 
the  pedestrian  may  avoid.  In  a  gorge  to  the  1.  (not  visible 
from  the  road)  are  the  *Falls  of  the  BrauliOy  which  is  preci- 
pitated over  several  rocky  terraces.  The  Casino  dei  rotteri  di 
Spondalonga^  used  by  the  road-menders,  the  Cantoniera  al  picmo 


to  Naud€r».  STELVK)  PASS.  85.  Route.     347 

del  BratUio  (*Inn)  in  a  green  dale,  and  the  Cantoniera  al  giogo 
di  8.  Maria  are  next  passed. 

12  M.  S.  Xaria  (8317')  (Inn),  the  4th  cantoniera  and  the 
Italian  custom-house,  is  situated  in  a  bleak  mountain  basin, 
almost  destitute  of  vegetation ,  and  surrounded  by  barren  moun- 
tains. The  ascent  by  two-horse  carriage  from  Bormio  to  this 
point  occupies  4^2  (descent  2)  hrs. ;  pedestrians  will  accomplish 
the  ascent  more  expeditiously ,  especially  if  they  avail  them- 
selves of  the  short-cuts. 

A  steep  and  stony  bridle-path,  formerly  the  only  route  between  the 
Vintschgau  and  Valtellina  (valleys  of  the  Adige  and  Adda) ,  diverges  to 
the  1.  from  the  Cantoniera  S.  Maria  to  the  Wormaer  Joch,  or  Urnbrail  Pass 
(8242'),  descending  in  3  hrs.  (ascent  4»|2)  through  the  Muranza  Valley  to 
the  Swiss  village  of  S.  Maria  in  the  Miinsterthal  (p.  349),  and  thence  by 
Tauffers  in  4  hrs.  to  Mais  (p.  349)  in  the  Etschthal. 

The  *Piz  TJmbrail  (9918^),  the  W.  and  highest  peak  of  the  bold  and 
serrated  rocky  mountains  which  bound  the  Val  Braulio  on  the  N.,  is  a 
remarkably  fine  point  of  view  (ascent  lij«,  descent  1  hr.  ^  guide  unneces- 
sary •<,  the  landlord  of  the  Cantoniera  demands  6  fr.).  By  the  dogana  di- 
verge from  the  Miinsterthal  route  to  the  1.  and  ascend  the  grassy  hill  in 
the  direction  of  the  foremost  rocky  buttress  of  the  TJmbrail.  As  soon  as 
the  slate-detritus  is  reached,  the  stoney  zigzag  path  is  observed  higher  up, 
which  near  the  top  leads  over  the'  highest  margin  of  the  Umbrail  Glacier. 
The  view  is  magnificent,  embracing  the  imposing  pyramid  of  the  Ortler, 
environed  with  numerous  snowy  peaks  and  glaciers;  to  the  S.  Konigs- 
spitze,  Tuckettspitze ,  and  Geisterspitze ;  then  the  Alps  of  the  Valtellina 
with  the  lofty  Cima  di  Piazza;  to  the  W.  the  Bemina  group;  to  the  N. 
the  Alps  of  the  Lower  Engadine,  the  Piz  Linard  and  Fluchthorn ;  farther 
distant  the  Oetzthal  Alps,  with  the  Weisskugel,  etc.  In  the  foreground 
are  the  barren,  red  Monte  Pressura  and  the  windings  of  the  Stelvio  road 
to  the  summit  of  the  pass.  A  good  panorama  by  F.  Faller  may  be  con- 
sulted at  the  inn. 

The  Cantoniera  S.  Maria  lies  728'  below  the  culminating 
point  of  the  Stelvio  Pass,  which  is  reached  in  less  than  1  hr. 
The  road  aflFords  several  glimpses  of  the  Miinsterthal.  Vege- 
tation gradually  disappears ,  and  scanty  moss  only  grows  on  the 
rocks.  Immediately  to  the  r.  of  the  road  rise  the  huge  icy 
masses  of  Monte  Cristallo.  The  pass  is  never  free  from  snow 
except  in  the  height  of  summer,  in  warm  seasons ;  even  in  July 
patches  of  snow,  6 — 8'  in  depth,  are  seen  on  the  road-side. 

On  the  Stelvio  Pass  {Oiogo  di  Stelvio^  or  Ferdinandahohey 
Gods')  stands  a  road-menders'  house ;  .  a  column  to  the  r.  marks 
the  culminating  point  and  boundary  between  Italy  and  the  Tyrol. 
About  72  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  frontier  of  Switzerland  (Grisons). 

A  footpath  ascends  by  the  workmen's  house  to  the  1.  in  20  min.  to  a 
rocky  height  which  commands  an  extensive  panorama.  The  view  of  the 
Ortler,  whose  snowy  dome  rises  immediately  opposite,  is  hardly  inferior 
to  that  from  the  Umbrail  (see  above).  Below,  in  the  foreground,  are  the 
ravines  of  the  Stelvio  route.  The  Monte  Pressura  towards  the  N.W.  inter- 
cepts the  view  of  the  Sfiinsterthal. 

The  road  now  descends  the  talc-slate  slopes  in  numerous 
windings.  To  the  r. ,  high  above  the  snowy  slopes ,  rise  the 
white  peaks  of  the  Geisterspitze   (or  Monte   Video,    11,362')  and 


348     BouU  86.  TRAFOI.  From  Tirana 

the  TuckeiUpit%€  (11,368').  As  the  road  Itaelf  commands  the 
finest  views,  the  short-cuts  should  be  avoided. 

7  M.  Franseniholia  (71590  (*Widlndfer8  Inn),  fonnerly  a 
post-station,  was  destroyed  by  Italian  irregular  troops  in  1848, 
but  has  since  been  restored.  To  the  S.  the  huge  Mondataeh  or 
Madatsck  Glaeier  extends  far  into  the  valley,  and  is  approached 
by  the  road  at  the  Cantoniera  al  Boseo,  which  was  destroyed 
in  1848.  The  finest  point  of  view  is  the  Weisae  Knott,  a  rocky 
eminence  with  a  balustrade  on  the  road-side,  about 3/4  M.  farther: 
in  front  rises  the  sombre  Madatschspitz ,  to  the  r.  is  the  Ma- 
datsch  Glacier,  descending  in  a  beautiful  mass,  to  the  1.  the 
Trafoier  and  Ortler  Ferner,  and  above  them  the  Pleisshorn  and 
Ortler;  in  the  valley  far  below  stands  the  chapel  of  the  Three 
Holy  Fountains  (see  below),  surrounded  by  pines.  In  the  back- 
ground to  the  N.  rises  the  broad  snowy  pyramid  of  the  Weiss- 
kugel,  the  second  highest  of  the  Oetzthal  Mts. 

41/2  M,  Trafoi  (5079')  (*Po8t),  a  hamlet  of  half-a-dozen  houses, 

is  beautifully  situated  (one-horse  carr.  to  Prad  2Y2  A-)' 

Pleasant  walk  of  3J4  hr.  to  the  ^Three  Holy  Springs,  which  riae  in 
the  valley  below,  at  the  foot  of  the  Ortler.  The  path  (guide  unnecessary) 
diverges  from  the  road  to  the  1.  and  leads  at  the  same  level  through 
meadows,  wood,  and  finally  moraine.  At  the  end  of  the  valley  are  figures 
of  Christ,  St.  Mary,  and  St.  John,  protected  by  a  roof,  from  whose  breasts 
flows  the  very  cold  'holy  water'.  Adjacent  are  a  chapel,  and  a  house 
which  afibrds  accommodation  to  pilgrims.  Opposite  the  spectator  rises 
the  almost  perpendicular  Madatscb ,  or  Mondatsch ,  over  the  dark  lime- 
stone rocks  of  which  two  glacier  brooks  are  precipitated.  Above,  to  the 
1.,  are  the  ice-masses  of  the  Trafoier  and  Untere-Ortler- Ferner,  overtopped 
by  the  Trafoier  Eiswand.     The  whole  scene  is  interesting  and  impressive. 

The  road  now  follows  the  impetuous  Trafoi -Back,  the  over- 
flow of  which  is  sometimes  very  destructive  after  rain.  At 
Oomagoi  (4337')  (Inn),  the  Austrian  custom-house,  with  large 
'Defensive-Barracks',  the  wild  Suldenthalj  9  M.  in  length,  ter- 
minated by  the  Sulden  Glacier,  opens  to  the  E.  The  principal 
place  in  the  valley  is  St.  Oertrud  or  Sulden  (*Eller;  Zum  Ortler). 
The  Oampenhofj  */2  ^^'  beyond  St.  Gertrud,  commands  an  im- 
posing view  of  the  Ortler,  which  is  generally  ascended  from 
this  point.     Joh.  Pinggera  and  Peter  Dangl  are  good  guides. 

The  narrow  valley  scarcely  affords  room  for  the  road  and 
river.  The  latter  forms  several  picturesque  waterfalls.  On  the 
height  to  the  1.  lies  the  village  of  Stilfs ,  Ital.  Stelvio,  from 
which,  though  not  on  the  road,  this  route  derives  its  name.  Near 
Prad  the  road  enters  the  broad  Valley  of  the  Adige. 

6  M.  Prad  (31000,  ^»v»o  <^*  -P^^*^*  or  Brad  (Ross,  tolerable), 
lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Stelvio  road,  which  now  intersects  the 
broad  valley  of  the  Etsch,  or  Adige,  crossing  a  marsh  and  the  river 
by  a  long  bridge ,  the  frontier  between  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Vintschgau,  and  next  reaches  Bpondinig  (2916')  f^Birsch),  2^2  M. 
from  Prad,  on  the  high-road  from  Bozen  and  Meran  to  Landeck 
and  Innsbruck. 


to  Nauders.  MALS.  86.  Route.     349 

Pedestriant  may  avoid  the  glaring  and  fatiguing  road  from  Prad 
by  Spondinig  to  Mais  by  proceeding  from  Prad  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Adige, 
skirting  the  mountains,  to  AgumSy  a  hamlet  with  a  ruined  castle ,  Lichten- 
berg  (*Inn),  channingly  situated  amidst  fruit-trees  and  commanded  by  a 
ruined  castle  of  that  name,  d^troyed  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  (see  below),  Olurnx  (3260'),  a  small  fortified  town  with  an  ancient 
church,  and  Mais  (see  below),  a  walk  of  2^^  hrs. 

To  the  MUnsterthal  a  narrow  road  leads  from  Glurns  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  Rambaeh^  at  first  leading  through  wood  at  places,  but  after- 
wards destitute  of  shade.  After  3  M.  it  crosses  the  brook.  (The  route  on 
the  r.  bank  by  Riffair  is  not  recommended.)  The  (3  M.)  loftily  situated 
village  of  Tauffers ,  with  its  three  churches ,  is  commanded  by  three 
ruined  castles  (route  by  La  Crusehetta  to  Scarly  soe  p.  339).  A  broad  road 
leads  hence  to  the  (li|2  M.)  Swiss  frontier  and  (>|2  M.)  Munster,  Rom. 
Afustair  (Inn),  the  first  village  in  the  Orisons ,  with  a  large  Benedictine 
abbey  church.  The  road  then  descends ,  crosses  the  Rambach  (to  the  1. 
the  Atm  da  Pischy  a  considerable  waterfall  in  wooded  ravine),  and  ascends 
gradually  by  Sielva  to  (2  M.)  S.  Maria  (*Weisses  Kreuz),  a  large  village 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Muranza.  Route  hence  over  the  Umbrail  Pass, 
or  Wormser  Joch,  to  Bormio,  see  p.  347;  by  the  Forno,  or  Ofener  Pass 
to  Zemetz,  see  p.  336  ^  through  the  Val  Scarl  to  Schuls,  see  p.  339. 

The  road  to  Nauders  now  skirts  the  base  of  the  mountains 
at  some  distance  from  the  Adige ,  and  traverses  the  Upper 
VinUchgau.  To  the  1.,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  rises 
the  handsome  half-ruined  castle  of  Lichtenberg ,  the  property  of 
Count  Khuen  (see  above).  To  the  r.  of  the  road ,  before 
Schludems  is  reached,  is  the  Churburg^  a  chateau  of  Count  Trapp, 
containing  a  valuable  collection  of  ancient  armour.  To  the  1. 
is  situated  OLums  (see  above),  near  which  the  Rambach  descends 
from  the  Miinsterthal  (see  above)  to  the  Adige.  Tartach  is  next 
passed,    and,    near  Mais,   the  ancient  tower  of  the  Froliehsburg. 

9  M.  Xftli  (3478')  (*Po$t  or  Adler;  Hirsch;  Qans)  is  a 
market-town  of  Roman  origin.  The  church  contains  the  'Death 
of  Joseph',  a  good  picture  by  Knoller. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Adige  rises  the  extensive  Bene- 
dictine Abbey  of  Marienberg.  To  the  1.,  farther  on,  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Burgeis ,  with  its  red  spire,  and  the  castle  of  Furaten- 
burg ,  now  occupied  by  a  number  of  poor  families.  The  road 
ascends  and  reaches  the  Pj.  bank  of  the  Heider-See ,  through 
which  the  Adige  flows.  Fine  retrospective  view,  with  the  Ortler 
in  the  background.  Mais,  Glurns,  and  Tartsch  lie  so  close 
together,  that  when  seen  from  the  height,  they  appear  to  form 
one  large  straggling  village.  Beyond  the  Heider-See  the  road 
reaches 

7V2  M.  St.  VaUntmaufder  Heide  (4695')  (*Post),  formerly  the 
hospice  of  the  bleak  and  rocky  Malser  Heide ,  where ,  in  1499, 
8000  troops  of  the  Orisons  defeated  an  army  of  the  Emperor 
Maximilian  of  double  that  number. 

The  road  skirts  the  £.  bank  of  the  Mitter-8ee,  and  leads  to 
Graun,  a  village  at  the  entrance  of  the  Lang  -  Tauferer  -  Thai, 
which   Is   terminated   by  huge  glaciers  {^OepacUach  and    Vemagt). 


350     BouU  86.  FINSTBRMUNZ. 

To  the  1.  lies  the  muddy  Reaehen-See,  the  oatlet  of  which  is  one 
of  the  sources  of  the  Adige.  Magnificent  *retrospect  of  the  snow 
and  ice-flelds  of  the  Ortler  range  which  form  the  entire  hack- 
ground;  to  the  1.  are  the  Sulden  and  Laos  glaciers,  in  front  of 
these  the  Tschengelser  Hochspitz,  more  distant  the  icy  masses  of 
the  CevedaUj  then  the  lofty  pyramid  of  the  KonigaspUzej  finally  to 
the  r.  the  imposing  Oriler  (p.  347)  itself.  This  view  is  most 
strikingly  grand  and  impressive  when  the  spectator  approaches  it 
from  Nauders.  Reschen  (4839')  (*Stern)  lies  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  lake.  Beyond  it  the  summit  of  the  Reachen-Scheideek 
(4898')  is  reached,  the  watershed  between  streams  descending  on 
one  side  to  the  Black  Sea,  and  on  the  other  to  the  Adriatic. 
The  road  now  descends  by  the  StiUe  Bach  to 

IOV2  M.  Kanders  (4462')  (Post;  Mondsehtin) ;  the  old  castle 
of  Naudersberg  contains  the  district  courts  of  justice. 

Diligence  to  Schuls,    see   p.  340;    to   Bozen  tvdce  weekl 
in  13^/^  hrs.  (comp.  Baedeker  s  8.  Germany). 

86.    From  Nauders  to  Bregenz  by  Landeck  and 
Feldkirch.    Finstermtinz.    Arlberg. 

1031 1%  M.  Diligence  from  Nauders  to  Landeck  4  times  weekly  in 
5>|4  hrs.,  from  Landeck  to  Bludenz  daily  in  8^)4  hrs.  (also  a  Stellvxtgen). 
From  Bludenz  to  Bregenz  Rail  to  ay  (Vorarlberg  Line)  in  3  hrs.;  fares 
2  fl.  31,  1  11.  93,  1  £1.  16  kr.  Austr.  —  Railtoap  from  Bregenz  to  Lindau 
(by  Lochau)  in  22  min. ;  fares  60,  42,  30  kr. 

The  excellent  road  through  the  Finstermunz  Pass,  completed 
in  1855,  traverses  the  mountain-side  at  a  great  height,  being  at 
places  hewn  in  the  face  of  a  perpendicular  rock  (three  tunnels 
and  two  galleries  as  a  protection  against  avalanches),  and  com- 
mands beautiful  views  of  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Inn.  (The 
route  into  the  Engadine,  R.  83,  crosses  the  narrow  ridge  to  the 
W.  of  Nauders,  which  separates  the  valley  of  the  Stille  Bach  from 
the  Innthal.) 

At  the  entrance  to  the  pass  are  some  small  fortifications ; 
beyond  them,  a  picturesque  waterfall.  The  principal  point  of 
interest  on  the  route  is  *Hoch  rinstermanz  (3730'),  a  group  of 
houses  with  a  *  Hotel.  Far  below  is  the  ancient  Finstermunz 
(3251'),  with  its  tower  and  a  bridge  over  the  Inn;  the  narrow 
ravine  through  which  the  Inn  flows  presents  a  most  picturesque 
scene,  the  mountains  of  the  £ngadine  forming  the  background. 

The  new  road  descends  gradually,  and  crosses  the  Inn  near 

9  M.  Pfunds  (3225')  (n^raube ;  *Post),  which  consists  of  two 
groups  of  houses  separated  by  the  Inn;  the  group  on  the  r.  bank, 
in  which  the  parish-church  stands,  is  termed  the  '■Dorf ;  that 
on  the  1.   bank ,    through   which  the  road  runs ,    is  the  ^Stuben', 


LANDECK.  86.  Route.     351 

To  the  £.  the  distant  Oetzthal  glaciers  are  visible.    The  road  again 
crosses  to  the  r.  bank  by  a  handsome  bridge  near  Toaena. 

9  M.  Bied  (2871')  (Post;  Adler) ,  a  considerable  village, 
with  the  castle  of  Siegmundsried ,  seat  of  the  district  tribunal. 
The  Capuchin  monastery  on  the  S.  side  was  erected  in  the 
i7th  cent. ,  with  the  object  of  counteracting  the  advance  of  the 
Reformation  from  Switzerland.  Prutz  (Rose),  where  the  road  crosses 
to  the  1.  bank ,  lies  in  a  marshy  plain  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kaunaerthal ,  in  which  is  situated  the  shrine  of  Kaltenbrunn ,  a 
favourite  resort  of  pilgrims. 

To  the  1.  above  Prutz,  on  an  abrupt  precipice  on  the  1.  bank, 
stand  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Laudegg ;  near  it  lies  the  village 
of  Ladis,  with  sulphur-baths  (moderate  charges),  1  hr.  from  Prutz  ; 
Y2  hr.  higher  is  ObladiSj  a  handsome  building  surrounded  by 
forest,  and  delightfully  situated,  with  mineral  springs  and  baths, 
the  best  in  the  Tyrol  (the  property  of  a  company),  but  not 
accessible  by  carriage. 

The  road  now  recrosses  to  the  r.  bank  of  the  river  by  the 
Pontlatz  Bridge^  6  M.  from  Landeck,  where  the  Bavarian  in- 
vaders of  the  Tyrol  were  signally  defeated  by  the  Tyrolese  '  Land- 
sturm'  in  1703  and  1809. 

Above  Flies  stands  the  chateau  of  Bideneck.  A  little  farther, 
on  the  1.  bank,  is  a  fall  of  the  Urgbach.  The  Inn  here  dashes 
through  a  narrow  gorge,  and  forms  a  series  of  cataracts. 

9  M.  Landeck  (2638')  (*Po8t;  Schwarzer  AdUr;  *Goldner 
Adler),  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Inn,  is  a  considerable 
village ;  above  it  towers  the  ancient  Feste  Landeck^  now  tenanted 
by  several  poor  families.  The  routes  of  the  Arlberg,  the  lower 
\  valley  of  the  Inn,  and  the  Yintschgau  unite  here.  (From  Landeck 
to  Innsbruck  diligence  once  daily  in  10  hrs. ;  comp.  Baedeker  s 
S.   Germany.^ 

The  Arlberg  road  crosses  the  Inn  by  a.  handsome  wooden 
bridge,  with  a  span  of  120';  it  then  quits  the  river,  turns 
towards  the  E. ,  and  crosses  the  Sanna ,  which  falls  into  the 
Inn  below  the  bridge.  The  Sanna  is  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  the  Trisanna,  which  emerges  from  the  Paznaun  Thai,  472  M. 
higher  up,  and  the  Rosannay  which  issues  from  the  Valley  of 
Stanz.  The  road  now  traverses  the  latter  valley ,  after  passing 
through  the  beautifully  situated  village  of  Plans  (*P611,  near  the 
church).  At  the  mouth  of  the  Pazriauner  Thai,  upon  an  isolated 
rock ,  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  Wiesberg ,  a  very  picturesque 
object,  visible  from  various  points  of  the  road.  This  entire 
district,  indeed,  affords  a  succession  of  pleasing  pictures,  espe- 
cially near  Strengen,  a  short  distance  farther.  The  Kosanna 
dashes  through  its  narrow  and  rocky  gorge ,  forming  several 
waterfalls.     The  road  is  steeper  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Arlberg 


352      Route  Se.  ARLBERO.  From  Nauders 

than  on  the  W.,  and  ascends  by  numerous  windings  on  the  bank 

of  the  stream. 

9  M.  niTMh  (27290  (*Po$t).  From  Flirsch  to  the  Ariberg  a 
monotonous  Alpine  valley.  The  Klamm  near  Sehnan  (4029')  is  a 
remarkable  defile,  390'  long  and  30'  wide,  enclosed  by  precipices 
500'  high,  which  approach  each  other  so  nearly  as  almost  to  meet. 
From  this  gorge  emerges  the  Schnanerbach.  Pedestrians  should 
ascend  to  this  ravine ,  and  traverse  it  as  far  as  a  crater  •  like 
basin,  about  i  M.  from  Sehnan. 

71/2  M.  St.  Anton  (4321')  (*Poat),  a  small  village  on  the  E. 
slope  of  the  Arlberg.  The  hospice  of  8t.  Christophy  consisting  of 
a  church  and  inn,  lies  ^2  ^-  below  the  summit  of  the  Pass 
(5932')  of  the  Arlberg,  or  Adlerberg,  the  watershed  between  the 
Rhine  and  the  Danube.  A  short  distance  beyond  is  the  boundary 
between  the  Tyrol  and  the  Yorarlberg,  indicated  by  posts.  The 
road  now  winds  down  to 

71/2  M.  Stuben  (4662')  (*Po8t),  an  insignificant  village  at  the 
W.  foot  of  the  Arlberg,  at  the  upper  extremity  of  the  Kloster- 
Thaly  through  which  the  Alfenshach  flows,  and  the  road  descends. 
{Bregenzer    Wald  and  Schracken  see  p.  354.) 

About  172  M.  beyond  Stuben  is  a  waterfall;  then  a  more 
considerable  one  (after  passing  Klosterle  and    Wald)  between 

772  M.  Dalaas  (2756')  (*Po8t)  and  Bratz  (on  the  1.).  Near 
the  nunnery  of  St.  Peter,  now  used  as  an  hospital,  the  road 
reaches  the  lU,  which  issues  from  the  Montafuner  Thai  (see  below), 
and  immediately  beyond  it, 

9  M.  Blndens  (1688')  (*Post;  Kreuz;  Krone),  prettUy  situ- 
ated, with  an  old  ch&teau  of  Baron  Sternbach.  In  the  valley, 
far  below,  is  an  extensive  manufactory.  To  the  S.  is  the 
picturesque  ravine  of  the  Brandnerthal,  with  the  ice-elad  Scesa- 
plana  in  the  background. 

The  picturesque  green  Hontafuner  Thai,  watered  by  the  IH,  is  a  popu- 
lous valley  abounding  in  cherry-trees ,  from  the  fruit  of  which  a  much- 
esteemed  'Kirschwasser''  is  prepared.  The  chief  village  is  Schruns  (2116') 
(Taube,  Lowe),  12  M.  from  Bludenz.  Several  passes  ( Schlappiner  Joch^ 
8t.  Anidnier  Joch,  Drusen  Thor,  Schweizer  Thor)  lead  from  the  Montafuner 
Thai  to  the  Prattigau  (p.  312),  commanding  magnificent  views. 

The  highest  mountain  of  the  Raeticon  Chain  (p.  312)  is  the  Boeaa- 
plana  (9738',  sceta  seat,  plana  flat),  the  summit  of  which,  in  the  form  of 
a  truncated  cone ,  is  named  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  district  Sennkop/^ 
Schiianf  or  Brandner  Femer.  It  is  usually  ascended  from  Bludenz ,  a  fa- 
tiguing ,  but  not  dangerous  excursion  \  Neye  is  recommended  as  a  guide. 
The  route  leads  through  the  Brandnertlial  to  (3  hrs.)  Brand  (Inn)  and  the 
Laner  See  (6407'),  the  highest  mountain  lake  in  the  fthsetian  Alps  (l^fa  M. 
in  circumference),  on  the  W.  side  of  which  a  hut  for  passing  the  night 
has  been  erected  by  the  German  Alpine  Club.  The  remainder  of  the 
ascent  occupies  4  hrs.,  3  hrs.  across  loose  stones,  M4  hr.  climbing,  '/z  hr. 
on  the  crest  of  the  mountain  (10  min.  on  the  higiiest  arm  of  the  S.W. 
glacier).  The  ascent  may  also  be  made  by  VandanSt  ^  village  in  the 
Montafuner  Thai ,  through  the  Relit  -  Thai  to  the  Liiner  See,  returning 
to  Bludenz  by  Brand.  The  ascent  on  the  Prattigau-side,  from  Seewis 
(p.  312),  is  more  difficult.     The  view  embraces   the  whole  of  Swabia  as 


to  Bregent.  FELDKIBCH.  86,  RouU.     353 

far  as  Ulm,  the  Lakes  of  Zurich  and  Wallenstadt,  the  mountains  of  Appen- 
zell ,  Bern ,  and  the  Tyrol  as  far  as  the  Gross-Glockner ,  and  the  entire 
valley  of  the  Rhine. 

The  *Hohe  Frassen  (6483'),  which  is  ascended  from  Bludenz  without 
difficulty  in  3  hrs.  (guide  advisable),  commands  an  admirable  survey  of 
the  Vorarlberg  and  Rheetian  Alps. 

The  railway  runs  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  111  to  stat.  Strassen- 
hau8  (fatiguing  route  hence  through  the  Orosie  Walserthal  and  over 
the  Schadona  Pass  to  the  Schrocken^  p.  354,  12  hrs.).  Beyond 
Niiziders  and  Ludesch,  which  He  to  the  r.,  the  111  is  crossed; 
then  the  Manghach  at  stat.  Nenzing.  To  the  1.  opens  the  Oam- 
perton-Thal.  The  stony  bed  of  the  stream  occupies  the  entire 
breadth  of  the  valley  at  places.  Stat.  Frastanz  lies  at  the  mouth 
of  the  8amina-Thal.  The  nithal,  which  from  Bludenz  to  this 
point  is  termed  the  Wallgau,  contracts.  At  Feldkirch  the  river 
forces  it  passage  through  lofty  limestone  rocks  by  means  of  the 
Obere  and  Vntere  lUklamm  before  it  empties  itself  into  the 
broad  valley  of  the  Rhine.  The  railway  crosses  the  111,  enters 
the  Obere  Klamm,  and  passing  through  a  short  tunnel  reaches 

Feldkirch   (15320    (*Post;   EngUscher  Hof,    R.   70,  L.  20, 

B.  50  kr.,  D.  1  fl. ;  Engel}  Ldwe)^  an  episcopal  residence,  with 

an    important    Jesuit    seminary    (Stella   Matutina)^    surrounded 

by  mountains,    a   natural  fortress,   and  the   key   to  the  Tyrol  on 

this  side.     Above  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Schat- 

tenhurg.      The    Parish   Church  j    erected   in    1487,     possesses   a 

*  Descent  from  the  Cross'  attributed  to  Holbein;    another  painting 

on   the   same   subject  is   in  the    Capuchin  Church.     A  beautiful 

view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  from  the  Falknisalp  to  the  Lake 

of  Constance,  and  of  the  gorge  of  the  111,  is  obtained  from   the 

*St.  Margarethenkapfy  the  S.  peak  of  the  Ardetzenberg  (see  below), 

1/4  hr.  to    the  W.,  on   which    are   situated  the   pretty  villa  and 

park  of  Herr   TschavoU  (cards  of  admission  at  the  office   of  tlie 

proprietor  in  the  town).     The   8t.    Veitskapf^  the   N.  summit  of 

the  hill,  commands  nearly  the  same  view. 

From  Feldkirch  to  Bucks  railway  in  8|4  hr.  (fares  77,65,  39  kr.). 
The  line  describes  a  wide  curve  round  the  Ardetzenberg  (see  above), 
crosses  the  111  at  NofeU^  and  intersects  the  broad  valley  of  the  Rhine, 
passing  stations  Nendeln  and  Schaan  (Vaduz^  2  H.  to  the  S.,  see  p.  282). 
Near  Bucks  (p.  282)  it  crosses  the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge. 

The  £.  side  of  the  vine-clad  Ardetzenberg^  which  the  line 
to  Buchs  skirts  to  the  1.,  is  now  passed.  Stat.  Rankweil  (Adler; 
Stern),  a  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Latemser  Thai  (ascent  of 
the  Hoke  Freschen,  6562',  5  hrs.,  with  guide,  not  difficult; 
superb  view).  The  III,  the  Frutz,  which  falls  into  the  Rhine 
near  Gotzis,  and  the  latter  river  itself  have  converted  this  district 
into  a  marshy  plain.  Above  the  debris  at  intervals  rise  several 
wooded  knolls,  the  most  considerable  of  which  is  the  Kumer- 
bergj  850'  above  the  Rhine.  Near  stat.  Ootzis  are  the  ruins  of 
two  castles  of  the  Montfort  family. 

Biiu>KKEB,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  23 


354     Route  86.  BREGENZ. 

Stat.  Hohenemi  (1424')  (Post)  lies  at  the  foot  of  bold  rocks, 
bearing  the  castles  of  Neu  and  Alt-Hohenems.  The  abundant 
timber  of  the  neighbourhood  is  employed  in  the  construction  of 
wooden  houses,  which  are  taken  to  pieces  and  exported  to  Switzer- 
land. The  Church  contains  a  fine  relief  in  marble  at  the  high- 
altar;  the  cardinal's  hat  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  is  also  preserved 
here.  The  castle,  erected  in  1564,  belongs  to  the  prince  of 
Waldburg-Zeil. 

The  Dombimer  Ach  is  now  crossed.  Stat.  Domhim  (1352'} 
(•Mohr,  by  the  church),  the  largest  town  in  the  Vorarlberg,  with 
tOOO  inhab.,  handsome  houses  and  a  new  church,  is  upwards  of 
2  M.  in  length  (route  to  Schwarzenberg  by  the  Hochalple,  see 
below).  The  background  towards  the  S.W.  is  formed  by  the 
mountains  of  Appenzell,  the  Kamor, .  and  Hohekasten,  the  snow- 
clad  Sentis,  and  the  serrated  Churflrsten.  Stations  Schwarzach 
(route  to  the  Bregenzer  Wald,  see  below)  and  Lautrach  (junc- 
tion-line to  the  1.  to  St.  Margaretherij  a  station  on  the  Ror- 
schach and  Coire  line,  p.  280),  beyond  which  the  Bregewser  Ach 
is  crossed. 

Bregenz  (1279')  ( Oesterreichischer  Hof,  R.  from  1  fl.,  B.  30, 
L.  and  A.  30  kr. ;  *8chwar%er  Adler^  smaller,  both  on  the  lake; 
Krone;  Gold.  Adltr) ,  the  chief  town  of  the  Vorarlberg  (i.  e. 
'district  in  front  of  the  Arlberg'),  the  Brigantia  of  the  Romans, 
lies  on  the  S.E.  bank  of  the  Lake  of  Constance.  The  Oldy  or 
Upper  Town,  on  an  eminence,  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient 
Roman  Camp ,  and  formerly  possessed  two  gates ,  of  which  that 
to  the  S.  has  been  removed. 

The  *Oebhardab«rg ,  or  Sohlossb«rg  (1772')  (Sfi  hr.  ascent ,  the  latter 
part  through  wood) ,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  a  ruined  castle  of  the 
Counts  of  Montfort,  an  inn  (good  telescope),  and  a  pilgrimage-church,  com- 
mands an  extensive  prospect,  embracing  the  entire  Lake  of  Constance,  the 
valley  of  the  Bregenzer  Ach  and  the  Bhine,  the  Alps,  and  the  snow-moun- 
tains of  Appenzell  and  Glarus ;  the  foreground  is  formed  by  picturesque 
pine-clad  mountains. 

Another  fine  point  of  view,  recommended  to  those  who  do  not  care  to 
ascend  so  high,  is  the  Bregenzer  Klause^  ^\\  hr.  from  Bregenz.  —  An  un- 
interrupted survey  over  the  mountains  of  the  Tyrol ,  the  Algau,  and 
Switzerland  is  commanded  bv  the  *Ff Ander  (3579')  \inu  with  2  beds) ,  to 
the  N.E.  of  Bregenz  (ascent  3  hrs.). 

From  Bregenz  to  the  Schrceeken  is  a  very  interesting  excursion 
of  12 — 14  hrs.  through  the  Bregenzer  Wald,  the  K.W.  portion  of  the  Vor- 
arlberg Alps «  a  thickly  peopled  district  traversed  by  the  Bregenzer  Ach. 
Bailway  in  i|2  hr.  by  Lautrach  to  Scfmarzach  (see  above);  then  enter  the 
mountains  on  the  E.  to  (9  H.)  Alberschwende  (2460')  (^Taube)  [or  better 
still  by  Dombirny  see  above,  and  on  foot  over  the  HocheUple  (4^8')],  and 
Schwarzenberg  (4i|3  M.)  (*Hirsch).  Then  by  Mellau  (beyond  the  Ach,  to 
the  r.,  is  the  small  bath  of  Reutte)  to  (9  M.)  Schnepfau;  (S  H.)  Au  (*BrOssle)  \ 
(3  M.)  Schopemau  C%41')  (*Krone).  The  journey  may  be  accomplished  thus 
far  in  a  light  carriage. 

From  this  point  the  steep  ascent  to  the  Schrceeken  (4058'),  passing  the 
small  sulphur  baths  of  Hopfreben^  occupies  lijz — 2  hrs.  At  the  bottom  of 
a  vast  basin,  around  which  mountains  rise  to  the  height  of  6(XX)' — 80(X)', 
covered  with  forest  and  pastures  at  their  base,  and  with  snow  on  their 
summits,  on  a  grassy  terrace  enclosed  by  precipices  and  the  foaming  waters 


EMS.  87.  Route.      355 

of  the  Acb  which  precipitates  itself  from  the  mountains,  is  seen  the  little 
church  of  Schroecken  ,  and  adjacent  to  it  a  new  *  Inn  and  a  small  group 
of  houses.  The  tableau  is  especially  striking  when  approached  from  the 
Arlberg,  from  Stuben  (p.  352)  (4  hrs.)  by  the  village  Am  Lech  or  Thamberg 
(4761')  (* Krone),  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  sources  of  the  Lech, 
whence  a  guide  is  necessary. 

From  the  Felt-Alp^  8(4  hr.  from  the  SchroBcken,  is  seen  to  the  N.  the 
rocky  pyramid  of  the  Widderstein  (8327') ,  and  a  superb  waterfall  of  the 
Ach ,  and  to  the  S.W.  a  glacier  on  the  sides  of  the  Rothe  Wand  (8875'), 
whence  a  brook  precipitates  itself. 

Mountain-paths  from  the  Schroecken  (N.E.)  to  the  Illerthal ,  as  far  as 
Oberstdorf  in  Bavaria,  see  Baedeker's  8.  Germany. 

Railway  to  Lindau  (p.  39)   by  Lochau  in  22  min.  (fares 

60,  4^  30  kr.).     Steamboats  on  the  Lake  of  Constance^    see 

p.  22*. 


87.     From  Coire  to  Spliigen.     Via  Mala. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  304.  , 

32»j4  M.  Diligence  three  times  daily  to  Spliigen  (10  fr.  95,  coup^ 
12  fr.  60  c.)  in  7,  thence  to  Chiavenna  twice  daily  in  5'|2  hrs.  (from  Coire 
to  Chiavenna  19  fr.  95,  coup^  22  fr.  90  c).  Correspondence  with  the  early 
train  from  St.  Gall  and  Rorschach,  see  p.  281.  From  Spliigen  travellers 
proceed  at  once  by  another  diligence  over  the  Bernardino  (p.  366). 
Those  who  wish  to  ei\joy  the  scenery,  should  secure  a  place  which  com- 
mands a  view,  or  avail  themselves  of  the  diligence  as  far  as  Thusis  enly, 
thence  proceeding  to  Andeer  (7^2  M.),  or  Spliigen  (17  M.)  on  foot.  The  road 
from  Coire  to  Reichenau  (6  M.)  is  unsuited  for  pedestrians  in  hot  and  dusty 
weather;  but  the  walk  from  Reichenau  to  Thusis  (11  M.)  is  replete  with 
interest.  Extra-post  with  two  horses  from  Coire  to  Thusis  27  fr.,  to 
Spliigen  68  fr.  50  c,  to  Chiavenna  123  fr.  20  c,  to  Colico  150  fr.  —  From 
Colico  to  Chiavenna  27  fr.,  to  Spliigen  95  fr.  40  c,  to  Coire  150  fr. 

As  Coire  is  quitted,  the  Barracks^  the  esplanade,  and  an  agri- 
cultural school  for  poor  children  are  seen  on  the  r.  The  scenery 
is  uninteresting  as  far  as  Reichenau.  On  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  Rhine  (crossed  by  a  new  bridge),  at  the  foot  of  the  Calanda 
(p.  283) ,  lies  the  village  of  Felsberg ,  which  is  menaced  with  a 
fate  similar  to  that  of  Goldau  (p.  57).  Large  masses  of  the  rock 
fell  in  1850. 

The  road  passes  through  the  handsome  Romansch  village  of 
Ems,  Romansch  Domat  (1880',  Rom.  Cath.),  near  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  castle  of  Hohenems.  The  chapel  on  the  eminence  con- 
tains an  image  of  the  Virgin,  said  to  have  been  brought  down 
from  the  Oberland  and  deposited  here  by  the  waters  of  the  Rhine. 
Some  geologists  maintain  that  the  various  hills  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, and  those  around  Reichenau,  have  been  formed  by  alluvial 
deposits.  (A  footpath  diverging  to  the  1.  from  the  road  above  Ems 
enters  the  forest,  and  then  skirts  the  r.  bank  of  the  Rhine  to 
Thusis;  it  is  1  hr.  shorter  than  the  high-road,  but  disagreeably 
stony  and  not  recommended.)  Near  Reichenau  the  road  crosses 
the  Rhine  by  a  dark  covered  bridge  of  one  arch,  252'  long,  and 
85'  above  the  river. 

23* 


356     RouU  87,  BONADUZ.  From  (hire 

6  M.  Beiohenaa  (1922')  (*AdUr,  R.  1,  B.  1 ,  A.  1/2  fr-, 
formerly  the  residence  of  the  governor,  rooms  with  vaulted  ceilings), 
a  group  of  houses  belonging  to  the  chateau,  lies  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Vordcr-Rhein  and  the  Hinter-Rhein.  The  best  view  of  the 
rivers  is  obtained  from  a  pavilion  in  the  garden  of  Af.  de  Planta, 
near  the  hotel.  In  the  struggle  of  the  two  streams  at  their  junction, 
the  Vorder-Rhein,  in  spite  of  its  superior  volume,  is  driven  back 
by  the  turbid  and  impetuous  current  of  the  Hinter-Rhein,  which 
descends  from  the  Bernardino.  On  the  W.  the  snow-clad  Brigelaer 
Horn  towers  above  the  mountains  of  the  Oberland.  The  garden, 
which  is  always  accessible ,  is  pleasantly  laid  out ,  and  contains 
a  well-kept  hot-house,  etc.  The  chateau,  opposite  the  entrance 
to  the  garden ,  was  erected  by  the  Bishops  of  Coire ,  and  was 
named  by  them  after  the  Abbey  of  Reickenau  on  the  Lake  of 
Constance  (p.  21).  It  is  now  the  property  of  Col.  de  Planta.  In 
1794  Louis  Philippe  sought  refuge  here,  and  several  memorials 
of  his  visit  still  exist  (fee  1  fr.).  —  Post-road  to  Dissentis,  see 
p.  304 ;  route  over  the  Kunkels-Pass  to  Bad  Pfaffers,  see  p.  286. 

A  second  covered  wooden  bridge  crosses  the  Vorder-Rhein  above 
Reichenau,  immediately  before  its  confluence  with  the  Hinter- 
Rhein.  In  the  vicinity  are  a  large  Saw-mili  and  several  marble- 
cutting  and  polishing  establishments. 

The  fertile  valley,  termed  on  the  E.  side  the  Domleschg ^  Roman. 
Domgiasca^  or  Tomiliasca,  on  the  W.  side  Heinzenherg ^  Roman. 
Montagna  ^  through  which  the  road  to  Thusis  leads  on  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Hinter-Rhein,  is  7^(2  M.  long  and  2  M.  wide.  The  Rhine,  which  formerly 
occupied  almost  the  entire  valley ,  is  now  confined  within  due  limits  by 
large  embankments.  The  sides  of  the  valley  are  remarkable  for  their  fertility, 
their  charming  scenery,  and  the  numerous  castles  which  frown  from  almost 
every  eminence  on  the  r.  bank.  The  mixture  of  languages  and  creeds  in  this 
district  cannot  fail  to  strike  the  traveller.  At  Coire  the  German  language 
and  Protestantism  prevail ,  Ems  is  Romansch  and  Rom.  Cath. ,  Reichenau 
Germ,  and  Prot.,  Bonaduz  (separated  from  Reichenau  only  by  the  Vorder- 
Rhein),  RhdzUm^  and  Katzis  Roman,  and  Rom.  Cath.,  the  Heinzenberg  Prot. 
and  (in  part)  Germ.,  Thuiis  Germ,  and  Prot.,  Schams  (Zillis,  Andeer,  and 
the  mountain-villages)  Roman,  and  Prot.  The  German  villages  of  the  Rhcin- 
waldthal  from  Suvers  to  Hinter-Rhein  form  the  limit  of  Protestantism  and 
the  Romansch  language.  Then,  beyond  the  Bernardino,  the  valley  of  Misox^ 
belonging  to  the  Grisons,  is  Ital.  and  Rom.  Cath. 

The  road  soon  ascends  for  a  short  distance.  On  the  Rhine, 
to  the  1.  of  (1  M.)  Bonaduz  (2146')  {Post;  Krone,  on  the  1.  at 
the  end  of  the  village),  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  George,  adorned  with 
ancient  frescoes.  ^Pan-a-tots^  (bread  for  all),  is  probably  so  named 
from  the  fertility  of  its  fields.  3/^  M.  Bh&suiis  (2126'),  a  village 
with  a  handsome  chateau  on  a  rock  rising  from  the  Rhine ,  the 
property  of  the  Vieli  family.  From  the  road  a  fine  retrospective 
view  of  the  chateau ,  the  chapel  of  St.  George ,  the  church  of 
Tamins,  and  the  Oalanda  in  the  background. 

On  the  right  bank  is  the  ruined  castle  of  Nieder  -  Juvalta ; 
farther  on  are  the  Baths  of  Rothenhrunnen ,  a  weak  chalybeate ; 
above  it  the  ruins  of  Ober-Juvalta ,    and  the  chateaux  of  Orten- 


to  Splugen.  THUSIS.  87.  Route.     357 

stein  and  Paspels.  Farther  on  are  the  ruined  church  of  St.  Lorenz 
and  the  chateaux  of  Canova,  Rietbery ,  Fiirstenau,  Baldenstein 
(on  the  Albula),  and  EhrenfelSj  the  latter  below  Hohen-Rhaetien 
(p.  358). 

On  the  left  bank,  on  an  eminence,  stands  the  ruined  castle 
of  (3  M.)  Realta^  not  visible  from  the  road.  Below  this  castle 
by  the  road-side  is  a  large  country -inn,  *Zur  Rheincorrection'. 
On  the  1.  side  of  the  road,  the  large  Penitentiary  of  the  Canton 
of  the  Orisons.  Near  (21/4  M.)  Katzis  (2185')  (Kreuz)  a  nun- 
nery on  the  r. ;  beautiful  landscape.  To  the  S.  is  the  snow-clad 
summit  of  the  Piz  Curver  (9761');  beyond  this,  to  the  1.,  the 
Schyn  Pass  with  the  majestic  Piz  8t.  Michel  (10,371')  in  the 
background;  to  the  N.  the  Ringelapitz  (10,659')  and  the  Trin- 
serhom  (9934').  About  %  M.  to  the  E.  the  Albula  falls  into 
the  Rhine ;  beyond  it  lies  the  considerable  village  of  Seharana 
(p.  321),  charmingly  situated.  Near  Thusis,  on  the  slope  by  the 
pleasant  village  of  Masein,  stands  the  castle  of  Tagstein  with 
pleasure -grounds,  formerly  the  ancestral  castle  of  the  Capol 
family,    as  an   inscription   over  the   portal  records. 

11  M.  Thusis  (2447'),  Ital.  Tosanna,  Rom.  Tusaun  (Tuacia) 
{*Via  Mala,  at  the  S.  end,  well  situated,  with  a  d^pendance  in 
the  principal  street,  R.  3,  B.  IY4,  A.  8/4  fr. ;  *Adler  or  Post, 
R.  2,  B.  1,  A.  8/4  fr. ;  *Rhaetia;  beer  at  the  FelsenkeUer  on  the 
Rosenhiigel,  to  the  r.  of  the  entrance  to  the  Via  Mala,  fine 
view),  21/4  M.  from  Katzis,  beautifully  situated  on  a  spur  of  the 
Heinzenberg,  rebuilt  in  a  superior  style  since  a  fire  in  1845, 
is  well  adapted  for  a  stay  of  some  duration,  and  as  head-quarters 
for  excursions. 

From  Thuiis  to  Tie/enkasten,  9  M.  The  ^Bohyn  Boad  con- 
structed in  1868  and  1869  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  old  Schyn-Pass, 
p.  321)  leads  on  the  8.  side  of  the  Albula  (diligence  once  daily  in  2  hrs., 
in  connection  with  the  diligence  across  the  Julier).  This  route  forms,  as 
it  were,  a  central  connecting  link  in  the  network  of  roads  extending  over 
the  Gri«ons,  and  commands  a  succession  of  picturesque  and  imposing  views. 
Immediately  beyond  Thusis  it  crosses  the  Xolla  and  the  Rhine  at  the  foot 
of  the  Hohen-Bhsetien.  Before  (*\a  M.)  SiU  (Inn  ^P<m*  MaV)  is  reached,  the 
road  passes  the  ruin  of  EhrenfeU  on  the  r. ,  then  the  small  chateau  of 
Balduinstein  on  the  1.;  it  next  ascends  to  Campi  {Campo  Bello,  ruin  of 
the  ancestral  seat  of  the  Campell  family;  Ulrich  Gampell  was  a  Bheetian 
reformer  and  historian)  and  the  farm  of  (2i{4  M.)  Ramplagnas.  Pretty  view 
hence  of  the  church  of  Solis,  which  continues  in  sight.  Then  through  the 
ancient  forest  of  Verzeuca.  A  ravine  on  the  r.  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of 
the  old  Mutten  road,  visible  high  above  the  new  road.  The  ^Pass  Mal\ 
which  begins  here,  has  rendered  galleries  of  masonry  and  extensive  cuttings 
and  tunnels  in  the  rock  necessary  in  the  construction  of  the  road.  (>|2  M.) 
Small  inn.  Fine  view  of  the  ravine  of  Mutten  from  the  bridge  which  crosses 
it.  [The  new  road  to  the  r.  ascends  to  (3  H.)  Mutten  (Inn  unpretending, 
but  good).  The  Muttner  Horn,  6571',  commanding  a  fine  prospect,  may  be 
ascended  hence  in  1  hr. ',  first  part  of  the  way  by  a  good  path,  then  across 
grassy  slopes].  (S|4  M.)  Unter- Solis,  a  hamlet  with  a  spring  containing 
iodine.  On  the  height  to  the  1.  are  the  chalets  (p.  321)  and  the  village  of 
Ohervatz.  Kear  the  last  gallery  a  fine  retrospect  is  obtained  of  the  Hein- 
zenberg  and  the  peaks  of  the  Albula  group.    The  road  now  crosses  the 


358     Route  87.  VIA  MALA.  From  Coire 

Albula  by  the  *8olis  Bridge^  which  spans  the  profou  nd  ravine  of  the 
Albula ,  26(y  above  the  foaming  stream ,  and  ascends  by  a  curve  to  the 
village  of  (2  M.)  Alvaschaiii  (AugusUn).  Opposite,  below  the  loftily- 
situated  StiirviSj  is  a  waterfall.  Farther  on,  to  the  r.  below  the  road,  is 
the  church  of  Militail ,  the  oldest  in  the  Albula  valley ,  and  formerly 
used  as  a  burial-place.  At  Unter-Milstail  there  is  an  alkaline  spring.  The 
road  unites  with  the  Julier  route  near  Tiafenkaaten  (p.  321). 

Pedestrians  proceeding  from  Thusis  to  the  Julier  road  may  take  the 
following  direct  and  interesting  route  :  from  the  Schynstrasse  by  the  vil- 
lages of  Mutten  and  StUrvU ,  loftily  fiituated  on  sunny  meadows  opposite 
the  Schyn ,  along  the  W.  slope  of  the  Oberhalbstein ,  and  down  by  Jfons 
and  Salux  to  Centers  (p.  322},  8  hrs.  in  all. 

The  NoUa  flows  into  the  Rhine  on  the  S.  side  of  Thusis.    On 

27th  Sept.,  1868,  its  swollen  and  turbid  stream  was  discharged 

like  a  vast  torrent  of  mud  into  the  Rhine,  the  waters  of  which  it 

forced  back  for   some  distance,  thus  contributing  considerably  to 

increase  the  devastations  in  the  lower  Rheinthal. 

The  Lake  of  LUsch  (6396'),  situated  on  the  Heinsenberg  (p.  356),  above 
the  village  of  Tschappina^  has  no  visible  outlet.  Its  water  softens  the 
porous  slate  of  its  banks  to  the  consistency  of  mud,  large  masses  of  which 
periodically  slide  down  to  the  NoUa.  Tschappina  itself  is  built  in  part 
on  a  shifting  foundation,  some  of  its  buildings  having  been  ascertained  to 
change  their  positions. 

The  view  from  the  NoUa  bridge  is  very  remarkable.  In  the 
background  of  the  valley  towers  the  barren  Piz  Beverin  (9843'). 
On  the  r.  bank  of  the  gorge ,  through  which  the  Rhine  flows, 
stand  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Hohen-Rhaeiien  or  Hoeh^Realt 
(Hoch  Ryalty  Raetia  Alta),  596'  above  the  river.  This  is  the 
most  ancient  castle  in  Switzerland,  founded,  according  to  tradition, 
by  the  legendary  hero  Raetus ,  leader  of  the  Etruscans  during 
their  retreat  before  the  Gauls,  B.  C.  587,  166  years  after  the 
founding  of  Rome.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  mountain  is  the  Chapel 
of  St.  John,  the  most  ancient  Christian  church  in  the  valley.  'Fine 
view  of  the  entire  Domleschg  (p.  356). 

From  1470  to  1822  the  road  here  ascended  the  course  of  the 
NoUa  through  forest,  and  entered  the  gorge  below  Rongellen  (see 
below).  The  path  through  the  gorge ,  the  celebrated  *VJ|i  Mala, 
was  then  only  4'  wide,  and  followed  the  1.  bank  the  whole  way. 
The  new  road  was  constructed,  and  the  old  path  considerably 
widened,  in  1822.  The  limestone-rocks  rise  almost  perpendicularly 
on  both  sides  to  a  height  of  1600'.  At  the  Kanzeli,  a  little 
way  from  the  entrance,  the  retrospect  is  very  fine.  About  1^2  M. 
from  Thusis  is  the  Verlome  Loch,  a  tunnel  50  yds.  in  length, 
penetrating  the  projecting  rock.  Before  reaching  it  the  road  pas- 
ses through  a  half  open  gallery ,  with  overhanging  rocks.  The 
roaring  river  is  visible  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge ,  at  a  point 
beyond  the  tunnel,  where  the  side-wall  ceases  and  the  wooden 
railings  recommence.  The  *retrospective  view,  through  the  narrow 
and  sombre  defile,  of  the  solitary  tower  of  Hohen-Rhastien,  and 
the  sunny  slopes  of  the  Heinzenberg  beyond,  is  very  striking. 

Near  the  (8/4  M.)  *Post-station  (refreshments  and  a  few  beds) 


to  Spliigen.  ANDKER.  ^7.  Boute.     359 

of  the  hamlet  of  Rongellen^  which  stands  on  an  eminence  to 
the  r. ,  the  gorge  expands  into  a  small  basin.  The  precipices, 
however,  soon  approach  each  other  again.  The  road  crosses  the 
river  three  times  at  short  intervals:  8/4  M.  (from  the  post-stat.) 
first  bridge,  built  in  1738 ;  1/4  M.  *Second  Bridge,  built  in  1738, 
where  the  scene  is  most  imposing.  The  Rhine,  300'  below  the 
road,  winds  through  a  ravine  so  narrow  that  the  precipices  abov6 
almost  meet.  On  27th  Aug.,  1834,  and  on  28th  Sept.,  1868, 
the  river  rose  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  arch  of  the  bridge. 
At  the  (IV4  M.)  third  bridge  (27360  (erected  after  the  in- 
undation of  1834)  the  Via  Mala  ends. 

The  road  now  enters  the  more  open  Valley  of  Schams  (2838') 
(V(tUi8  Sexamniensis y  'valley  of  the  six.  streams'  descending 
from  the  mountains  on  the  r.  and  1. ;  Ital.  Sessame),  the  green 
meadows  and  cheerful  habitations  of  Which  look  doubly  attractive 
to  the  traveller  after  the  sombre  passage  of  the  Via  Mala.  In  the 
background  to  the  S.  are  the  peaks  of  the  Hirli  (9360').  Above 
the  old  bridge,  the  Rhine  forms  a  small  waterfall.  The  first  vil- 
lage in  the  valley  of  Schams  (6  M.  from  Thusis)  is  ZiUiB,  Rom. 
Ziraun  (3061')  (refreshments  at  the  post-stat.),  with  the  most  an- 
cient church  in  the  valley,  of  which  the  tower  is  the  oldest  part. 

The  *Piz  Bevorin  (%43'),  commanding  a  magnificent  prospect,  may 
be  ascended  from  Zillis  or  Andeer  in  6 — 7  hrs.  (guide  necessary,  5  fr.)-  A 
fatiguing  excursion,  but  unattended  with  difficulty  or  danger.  Bridle-path 
as  far  as  the  Oberste  Alp. 

On  the  eminence  to  the  r.,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  above 
tlie  village  of  Donat,  behind  which  rises  the  Piz  Beverin,  stands 
the  ruined  castle  of  Fardiin,  or  La  Turr  (3819'),  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  governors  of  the  valley.  About  the  middle  of  the 
15th  cent.,  the  brutal  behaviour  of  one  of  these  officials,  like 
that  of  Gessler  150  years  previously,  was  the  cause  of  the  eman- 
cipation of  this  district  from  their  oppressive  sway.  Entering  the 
cottage  of  a  peasant  to  whom  he  entertained  a  dislike  the  tyrant 
spat  into  the  boiling  broth  prepared  for  the  midday  meal.  The 
peasant,  Johann  Caldar,  seized  him  by  the  throat,  plunged  his 
head  into  the  scalding  liquid,  exclaiming:  'Eat  the  soup  thou 
hast  seasoned'  C-Malgia  sez  il  pult  cha  ti  has  condut'),  and  strangled 
him.     This  was  the  signal  for  a  general  rising. 

Near  the  Baths  of  Pigneu  which  were  destroyed  by  an  in^ 
undation  in  1834,  and  afterwards  by  fire  (the  waters,  containing 
iron  and  alkali ,  are  conducted  to  Andeer,  and  there  used  for 
baths),  a  glacier-torrent  descending  from  the  Piz  Curver  (9760') 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge,  the  last  completed  on  this  route,  and 
bearing  the  inscription  on  the  E.  parapet:  ^Jam  via  paiet 
hostibus  et  amicis.  Cavete  Rhaeti!  simplicitas  morum  et  unio  ser^ 
vabunt  avitam  libertatern  . 

7V2  M.  Andeer  (3212')  (*Krone,  or  Hotel  Fravi),  the  princi- 
pal village  of  the  valley,  with  a  Prot.  Romansch  pop.  of  583.    Near 


360     Route  87.  AVERSER  THAL. 

the  village  stands   the   tower   of  the  castle    of  CasieUatsch;    fine 

view  of  the  valley  from  the  church  (erected  in  1673). 

From  Andeer  to  Stalla  (11  good  hrs.,  the  traveller  should  take 
provisions  and  wine  from  Andeer,  guide  unnecessary),  an  attractive  ex- 
pedition. About  2  M-  above  Andeer  the  path  quits  the  Spliigen  road  and 
enters  the  wild  ^Ferrera  Valley  to  the  1.,  leading  first  on  the  I.,  and 
afterwards  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Averser  Rhein ,  which  forms  several  fine 
waterfalls.  At  (1>J4  hr.)  Autser-Ferrera  i^SSi')  the  valley  expands  slightly; 
to  the  1.  rises  the  Pit  Starlera  (10,000').  The  path  then  leadA  on  the  r. 
bank  of  the  stream,  through  a  grand  and  wild  valley,  to  (i^jz  hr.)  Inner- 
Ferreray  or  CanieUl  (4866')  (modest  accommodation  at  the  pastor^s),  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Fcrf  Enui^  above  which,  to  the  r.,  peeps  the  Surettahom 
(p.  361),  to  the  1.  the  Pit  Miet  (9255').  The  narrow  path  here  crosses  the 
Rhine,  into  a  romantic  ravine  of  which,  ^2  M.  farther,  the  torrents  from 
the  Val  Btarlera  on  the  1.  and  the  Valle  d4  Lei  on  the  r.  descend ;  it  then 
crosses  the  latter  and  leads  high  along  the  1.  side  of  the  Averaar  Thai, 
as  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  is  called,  one  of  the  loftiest  inhabited 
districts  among  the  Alps.  Picturesque  views  of  the  Piz  Starlera,  Piz  Alv, 
and  Weissberg.  The  path  now  descends  to  (1  hr.)  Campsvi  (5499^),  and 
by  (i|'4  hr.)  Crot  (to  the  r.  a  view  of  the  green  MadrUer  Tkaf)  to  (>{4  hr.) 
Cresta  (6394')  (Postablage,  poor;  quarters  at  the  curb's),  the  principal  vil- 
lage in  the  valley,  which  here  expands  and  contains  beautiful  pastures. 
Then  a  slight  ascent  (to  the  1.  the  Piz  Platta  and  Fopperkom}^  past  the 
mouth  of  the  (S.)  Val  Bregalga,  to  (lijs  hr.)  Juf  (9686'),  and  then  an  ascent 
across  pastures  (where  inexperienced  walkers  will  find  a  guide  desirable) 
to  the  culminating  point  of  the  StdUerberg^  or  Valletta  Pass  (8478').  Beau- 
tiful view  of  the  mountains  of  the  Upper  Engadine,  the  Julier  route,  etc. 
The  narrow  path  then  descends  to  the  1.  on  the  slope  of  the  Val  Valletta 
to  (2  hrs.)  Stalla  (p.  332).  —  From  Juf  a  path  leads  to  the  S.E.  over  the 
ForcelUna  (8770')  direct  to  the  SepUmer  (p.  322). 

From  CanieUl  to  Pianazzo  on  the  Spliigen  route  (4  hrs.,  guide 
necessary ;  the  son  of  the  pastor  at  Caniciil  recommended).  The  path  ascends 
through  the  forest  in  the  Val  Emet,  skirting  the  precipice  on  the  r.,  to  the 
chalets  of  the  Emet  Alp  (6194'),  whence  the  'stone  man**  on  the  summit  of 
the  Passo  di  Madesimo  (lASff)  is  visible ,  though  there  still  remains  two  good 
hours'  walk  over  the  soft  and  uneven  soil  of  the  Alp  before  that  point  is 
reached.  Retrospective  view  of  the  Piz  Beverin ,  and  beyond  this  the  Ca- 
landa;  from  the  summit  of  the  pass,  which  forms  the  frontier  of  Switzer- 
land and  Italy,  the  Tambohom  (p.  361)  is  visible  to  the  W. ,  and  the  Oima 
di  Logo  (9892')  and  Piz  Gallegione  (10,286')  to  the  S.E.  On  the  S.W.  side 
of  the  pass  a  patch  of  snow  is  crossed ;  then  along  the  K.  side  of  the 
beautiful  little  Logo  di  Emet^  down  by  the  I.  bank  of  the  Madesimo^ 
afterwards  across  meadows,  through  the  village  of  the  same  name  (4  hrs. 
from  Caniciil) ;  then  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Madesimo,  reaching  the  Spliigen 
route  >|2  M.  below  Pianazzo  (p.  362). 

The  Spliigen  route  winds  upwards,  passes  the  inconsiderable 
ruins  of  the  Barenburg ,  and  enters  the  *Roffna  Ravine, 
bearing  some  resemblance  to  the  Via  Mala,  a  gorge  3  M.  in 
length,  in  which  the  Rhine  forms  a  series  of  waterfalls.  Near 
the  entrance  the  road  crosses  the  Averaer- Rhein  which  here  issues 
from  the  Ferrera-Thal  and  forms  a  fine  waterfall  a  little  way 
up  the  valley.  (Route  through  the  Ferrera  Valley  to  Stalla,  see 
above.) 

Towards  the  end  of  the  gorge,  the  Einshom  (9649'),  which 
is  covered  with  snow  in  the  early  summer,  becomes  visible.  An 
ancient  bridge  here  crosses  the  Rhine ;  farther  on,  a  rocky  gateway, 
about  16  yds.  in  length  (Saaaa  plana),  is  passed.  The  open  Alpine 
landscape  of  the  Rheinwcddthal  (Val  Rhein)  is  now  disclosed;  to 


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SPLUGEN.  87.  Route.     361 

the  r.  the  village  of  Sufers,  or  Suvers  (4672');  opposite  the 
traveller  rise  the  Pizzo  Uccdlo  (8910')  and  the  Einahom  (9649') ; 
to  the  1.  of  Spliigen ,  near  the  Pizzo  Uccello ,  the  Tambohorn 
(10,748');  opposite,  towards  the  W.,  the  Zapporthom  (9803') 
and  other  mountains,  see  p.  366. 

8V4  M.  Spmgen  (4757')  (*Hotel  Bodenhaus,  R.  21/2,  D.  3— 
4  fr.,  diligence  passengers  breakfast  here),  Rom.  Spluga  (from 
Speluja^  without  corn;  or  Specula,  watch-tower),  is  the  capital 
(523  inhab.)  of  the  Rheinwaldthal,  the  upper  part  of  which  valley 
resembles  that  of  Ursern.  The  village  is  enlivened  by  the  traffic 
on  the  Spliigen  and  Bernardino  routes  on  which  It  is  situated. 
It  consists  of  half-a-dozen  handsome  houses  and  a  number  of 
smaller  ones,  with  a  church.  In  autumn  large  herds  of  cattle 
are  constantly  encountered  in  this  village,  on  their  way  to  the 
Italian  markets.  At  this  elevation  oats  seldom  attain  maturity. 
Numbers  of  Bergamasque  shepherds  (comp.  p.  323)  are  also  to 
be  found  with  their  flocks  on  both  slopes  of  the  Spliigen.  (Ex- 
cursion to  the  Source  of  the  Hinter-Rhein,  see  p.  366.) 

88.     From  Spliigen  to  the  Lake  of  Como. 

39  M.  Diligence  twice  daily  to  Chiavenna  (9  fr.,  coup^  10  fr.  30  c.) 
in  5*|4  hrs.,  to  Golico  (13  fp.  10,  coup^  15  fr.  30  c.)  in  8>|8  hrs.,  correspon- 
ding with  the  steamboats  to  Como  (Swiss  diligence  as  far  as  Lecco).  The 
seats  on  the  r.  afford  the  best  view. 

The  road  divides  near  the  village  of  Spliigen  (4757') ;  that  in 
a  straight  direction  leads  to  the  Bernardino  (p.  366) ,  while  the 
Splugen  route  crosses  the  Rhine,  ascends  in  windings  (which 
may  be  avoided  by  short-cuts),  and  farther  up  traverses  a  tunnel 
93  yds.  in  length.  The  barren  Kalkberg  (9760')  rises  above 
Spliigen  in  the  rear.  The  road  then  enters  a  bleak  valley  and 
ascends  on  the  W.  side  by  numberless  zigzags ,  passing  the  lonely 
Berghaus  (6677^,  and  leading  through  a  long  gallery  of  mason- 
ry, to  the  summit  (6945')  of  the  Spl&gen  Fa88  (Colmo  del  Orao), 
3475'  below  the  precipitous  Tanibohom,  or  Schneehom  (10,748', 
ascended  in  4  hrs.  from  the  pass ,  unattended  with  danger,  but 
guide  necessary;  the  view  extends  N.  to  Swabia,  S.  to  Milan, 
whence  this  mountain  is  visible).  To  the  E.  rise  the  Surettahomer 
(9925').  This  narrow  ridge  forms  the  boundary  between  Switzer- 
land and^  Italy. 

The  Splugen  was  one  of  the  Alpine  passes  with  which  the  Romans 
were  acquainted.  Down  to  1818  it  was  a  bridle-path  only.  Between  27th  Nov. 
and  4th  Deo.,  18(X),  (3«neral  Macdonald  led  his  division,  which  was  to  cover 
the  flank  of  the  Italian  army  commanded  by  Brune,  over  this  pass  du- 
ring a  severe  snow-storm.  Whole  columns  of  troops  were  precipitated  into 
the  abyss  of  the  Cardinell  (see  below)  by  avalanches.  The  Austrian  govern- 
ment caused  the  present  road  to  be  constructed  in  1819 — ^21 ,  in  order  to 
secure  a  passage  to  Lombardy  in  this  direction  also,  after  the  completion 
of  the  Bernardino  route. 

Beyond  the  summit  the  road  passes  the  first  Cantoniera  (refuge)^ 
and  then  reaches  (8/4  M.,  8  M.  from  Spliigen)  the  Bogana  (6247'), 


362     BouU  88.  GHUYENNA. 

the  Italian  custom-house,  a  group  of  houses  with  a  poor  inn 
(Albergo  Monte  Spluga)^  at  the  upper  end  of  a  bleak  valley  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  mountains.  The  snow  here  often  reaches  in 
winter  to  the  windows  of  the  first  floor.  Bells  are  rung  in  the 
four  highest  houses  of  refuge  during  snow-storms,  as  a  guide  to 
travellers. 

The  old  bridle-path  turned  to  the  r.  near  the  second  wooden 
bridge,  and  traversed  the  Cardinell  gorge  direct  to  Isola,  a  route 
much  exposed  to  avalanches.  The  new  road  descends  gradually 
by  numberless  zigzags  along  the  E.  slope,  and  is  protected 
.  at  places  against  avalanches  by  long  galleries  (the  first  249  yds. 
long,  the  second  228,  the  third  550  yds.).  These  are  constructed 
of  solid  masonry  and  covered  with  sloping  roofs  supported  by 
pillars,  to  enable  the  snow  to  slide  off ;  they  are  lighted  by  aper- 
tures at  the  sides,  resembling  embrasures. 

As  the  second  gallery  is  quitted,  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained 
of  the  old  road  (destroyed  by  an  inundation  in  1834),  and  the 
village  of  Uola.  The  new  road  avoids  the  dangerous  Liro  gorge 
between  Isola  and  Gampo  Dolcino.  Immediately  beyond  Pianazto, 
near  the  entrance  to  a  short  gallery,  the  considerable  stream  of 
the  Madesimo  precipitates  itself  from  a  rock  to  a  depth  of  700' 
into  the  valley  below.  This  beautiful  ^waterfall  is  best  surveyed 
from  a  small  projecting  platform  by  the  road.  The  conductor 
sometimes  detains  the  diligence  for  a  short  time  to  enable  pass- 
engers to  alight  and  view  the  cascade.  A  Latin  inscription  on  a 
stone  tablet  in  the  rock  records  the  date  of  the  construction  of 
the  route.  (From  Pianazso  to  Canicul  over  the  Passo  di  Madesimo , 
see  p.  360.) 

1572  M.  Campo  Doldno  (3553^)  consists  of  four  large  groups 
of  houses ,  the  first  of  which  contains  the  church ,  surrounded 
by  ash-trees,  and  the  cemetery  (^Campo  Santo').  In  the  second 
group,  ^/2  M.  farther,  is  the  inn  (Poata).  Beyond  this  point  is 
another  Latin  inscription  on  the  rock,  in  honour  of  the  Emperor 
Francis,  who  constructed  the  route  from  ^Clavenna  ad  Rhenurn. 

The  Liro  Vcdley,  or  Valle  8.  Oiaeomo,  is  strewn  with  frag- 
ments of  rock,  but  the  wUdness  of  the  scene  is  somewhat  softened 
by  the  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  chestnuts  visible  lower  down,  from 
which  rises  the  slender  white  campanile  of  the  church  of  QaUi- 
vaggio.  Near  8.  Oiacomo  there  are  whole  forests  of  chestnuts, 
which  extend  far  up  the  steep  mountain  slopes.  The  vineyards 
of  Chiavenna  are  now  soon  reached,  and  the  rich  luxuriance  of 
Italian  vegetation  unfolds  itself  to  the  view. 

81/2  M.  Chiayenna  (10400,  ^^^  Clavenna  of  the  Romans, 
afterwards  the  capital  of  the  County  of  Claven  (*H6tel  ConrcuUy 
R.  21/2—3,  B.  IV2,  D.  ^,  L-  and  A.  IV4  fr. ,  adjoining  the 
post-office,  carriages;  Chiave  d'Oro]  Chiavenna  beer  Is  consid- 
ered the  best  in  N.  Italy),  an  ancient  town  with  3800  inhab.,  is 


BIVA.  88.  Route.     363 

charmingly  situated  on  the  Maira,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Bre- 
gaglia  (&ee  below).  Opposite  the  post-office  are  the  extensive  ruins 
of  a  castle ,  formerly  the  property  of  the  De  Salts  family,  and 
frequently  besieged  in  ancient  times.  Picturesque  view  from  the 
castle-garden,  or  ^paradiao'  (V2  fr-  gratuity),  which  extends  along 
an  isolated  vine-clad  rock. 

8.  Lorenzo  J  the  principal  church,  near  the  post-office,  has  an 
elegant  slender  clock-tower,  or  campanile,  which  rises  from  an 
enclosure  surrounded  by  arcades ,  formerly  the  Campo  Santo  or 
burial-ground.  Interior  uninteresting.  Adjacent  are  two  Ckamel" 
houses  f  in  which  the  skulls  and  bones  are  carefully  arranged. 
The  Battisterio  contains  a  very  ancient  font,  decorated  with  reliefs. 

The  road  to  Golico  at  first  traverses  vineyards ;  farther  on, 
the  effects  of  the  inundations  of  the  Maira,  and  its  tributary  the 
LirOj  which  joins  it  below  Chiavenna,  become  apparent.  Almost 
the  entire  valley,  being  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains,  is  exposed 
to  these  inundations.     Near 

6  M.  Biva  the  road  reaches  the  Lago  di  Rwa,  or  di  Mexzola, 
so  completely  shut  in  by  mountains,  that ,  previously  to  the  con- 
struction of  the  road,  the  lake  had  to  be  crossed  by  boat.  This 
piece  of  water  originally  formed  the  N.  bay  of  the  Lake  of  Como, 
but  the  deposits  of  the  Adda  have  in  the  course  of  ages  almost 
entirely  separated  the  two  lakes ,  which  are  now  connected  only 
by  a  narrow  channel,  recently  rendered  navigable.  The  road 
skirts  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake,  in  some  places  supported  by 
embankments  and  masonry,  in  others  passing  through  galleries, 
and  crosses  the  Adda.  Before  the  junction  of  this  road  with  that 
of  the  Stelvio  (p.  344),  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Fuentes^ 
erected  by  the  Spaniards  in  1603,  and  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1796 ,  are  seen  on  the  r.  It  was  formerly  situated  on  an 
island,  and   considered  the  key  of  the  Yaltellina.     At 

9  M.  Colieo  {122')  (^Jsola  Bella;  Angelo,  both  in  the  Italian 
style;  *Restaurant  on  the  lake,  adjoining  the  Isola  Bella),  the 
Lake  of  Como  (p.  386)  is  reached.  The  Swiss  diligence  runs 
as  far  as  Lecco  by  the  road  mentioned  at  p.  391.  Steamers 
on  the  lake,  see  p.  385. 

89.     From  Chiavenna  to  Samaden.     Maloja. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  360,  334. 

33>|2  M.  Diligence   once  daily  in  88(4  hrs.  (12  fr.  70,  coup^  14  fr.  30  c). 

The  V«l  Bregaglia  iPntegallia  of  the  Romans,  so  named  from  its  po- 
sition 'in  front  of  their  province  of  Cisalpine  Gaul),  Ger.  Bergeller  Thai, 
opens  near  Chiavenna,  and  extends  upwards  towards  the  E.  as  far  as  the 
Maloja.  This  valley,  in  most  parts  nan-ow,  is  watered  throughout  its  entire 
length  by  the  Maira,  or  Mera.  The  lower  part  exhibits  the  luxuriance  of 
southern  vegetation,  the  upper  is  Alpine  in  character.  The  route  from 
Chiavenna  to  the  Swiss  frontier,  between  masses  of  rock  clothed  with  dense 
chestnut  woods,  is  strikingly  beautiful,  and  rich  in  picturesque  landscapes, 
but  its  habitations,  roads,  and  bridges  are  in  a  lamentable  state  of  dilapida- 


364      Route  89.  CASTASEGNA.  From  Chiavmna 

tion,  the  sole  exception  being  the  well  constructed  high-road  itself.  Ko  sooner, 
however,  is  the  Swiss  frontier  crossed,  Ihan  the  contrast  becomes  most 
marked;  the  roads  are  good  and  the  houses  well  built.  In  the  Bregaglia 
alone  are  purely  Italian  communities  to  be  found  professing  the  Reformed 
faith  (at  Poschiavo,  p.  343,  mixed).  Many  of  the  inhabitants  (1638  in  num- 
ber), like  those  of  the  Engadine,  seek  their  fortunes  in  foreign  lands. 

At  Ghiavenna  the   road  diverges   to  the  £.,  and  ascends  the 

course  of  the  Maira.   On  the  road,  172^*  ^'^m  Ghiavenna,  is  a 

picturesque  waterfall,  the  two  arms  of  the  stream  forming  a  double 

cascade;    IY2  M.  beyond  are   two   small  villages,    designated  as 

*/)ei  eomune  di  Piuro\ 

(Opposite,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Maira,  formerly  stood  the  wealthy  and 
flourishing  town  of  Plurs  (Piuro)  with  2430  inhab. ,  and  surrounded  by 
numerous  country-residences.  This  town  was  entirely  destroyed  by  a  land- 
slip in  1618.  For  several  days  previously  to  the  catastrophe,  masses  of  rock 
had  become  detached  from  the  slopes  of  Monte  Conto,  and  numerous  fissures 
were  observed  to  form  and  widen  in  the  mountain.  The  inhabitants, 
however,  disregarded  these  admonitory  phenomena,  and  were  buried,  together 
with  all  their  possessions,  by  a  mass  of  earth  and  rock  60*  in  thickness,  all 
attempts  to  penetrate  which  proved  fruitless.  Every  trace  of  the  town  has 
disappeared,  and  the  mass  of  debris  is  now  clothed  with  a  luxuriant  forest 
of  chestnuts.  The  name  of  the  town  still  survives  in  that  of  the  little 
village  of  P 1  u  r  s ,  where  a  traffic  is  carried  on  in  articles  manufactured  of 
a  soft  kind  of  stone  (talc,  lapis  ollaris) ,  mentioned  by  Pliny  upder  the 
name  of  '■Lapis  Comensis''. 

The  road  remains  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Maira,  and  passes 
through  Villa^  or  Villa  di  Chiavenna.  Immediately  below  Casta- 
segrMf  the  stream  forms  the  boundary  between  Italy  and  Switzer- 
land. Castasegna  (2329')  (*8chuhmacher8  restaurant;  Albergo 
della  Libert^),  6  M.  from  Chiavenna,  is  on  the  Swiss  frontier. 
The  name  of  this  closel  ybuilt  but  pleasing  village  indicates  that 
its  principal  resources  are  derived  from  its  chestnut-trees.  The 
silkworm  and  white  mulberry  continue  to  flourish  here ,  and  as 
far  N.  as  Bondo. 

Pleasant  walk  through  a  beautiful  chestnut  wood ,  passing  the  water- 
fall of  the  Acqua  di  StoU,  to  Soglio  (3569')  (*Giovanoli),  a  village  with  406 
inhab.,  1  hr.  N.E.  of  Castasegna,  the  site  of  the  deserted  palaces  and  gar- 
dens of  the  Salis-Soglio  family.  In  a  gajrden  here  the  pinus  cetnbra ,  or 
'Alpine  cedar'  (p.  324),  is  seen  in  strange  juxtaposition  with  the  chestnut. 
Fine  view  of  the  Bondasca  Glacier.    Descent  to  Promontogno,  see  below. 

Spino,  a  group  of  houses  on  the  road  below  Soglio,  and  1  M. 
above  Castasegna,  possesses  a  brewery  (good  beer).  Opposite, 
near  Bondo,  where  the  impetuous  Bondasca  falls  into  the  Maira, 
stands  a  chateau  erected  by  the  Counts  of  Salis  in  1770.  For 
three  whole  months  the  sun  does  not  shine  on  Bondo.  Rho- 
dodendrons and  chestnuts  flourish  here  side  by  side.  The  latter 
do  not  occur  beyond  this  limit ,  and  the  walnut  ceases  near 
Stampa.  Fine  view  of  the  upper  Val  Bondasca,  with  the  Piz 
deir  Acqua  and  the  Piz  di  Caccia  Bella. 

Attractive  excursion  to  the  Bondasca  Olacier  (3  hrs.),  of  whicb  a 
good  survey  is  obtained  from  the  last  chalet,  reached  by  ascending  the 
slope  to  the  I.  before  the  moraine.  The  view  is  still  finer  from  the  chalets 
of  Sass  Fura  (6024',  guide  desirable),  situated  high  up  on  the  slope  of  the 
Cima  di  Tsohinqel^  on  the  8.  side  of  the  valley. 


to  Samaden,  ViCOSOPRANO.  89,  RouU.     365 

The  road  crosses  the  Maira  above  its  coDfluence  with  the 
Bondasca.  Promontogno  (2687')  (*Oalleria)j  a  village  belonging 
to  the  commune  of  Bondo,  is  commanded  by  the  fine  ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Castelmur.  Two  lofty  and  massive  walls  descends 
into  the  valley.  The  road  passes  through  La  Porta^  a  rocky 
gallery,  which,  like  the  Platifer  (p.  84)  in  the  Leventina,  forms 
the  boundary  between  two  zones  of  vegetation.  Near  the  tower 
of  the  castle  stands  a  handsome  church,  erected  by  Baron  Castel- 
mur in  1855. 

The  church  of  8.  Pietro  is  picturesquely  situated  on  an 
eminence;  then  Stampa  (3379')  and  Borgonuovo  (Bomovy  3471'), 
which,  with  Coltura  on  the  slope  opposite,  form  the  parish  of 
Stampa  (373  inhab.).  Near  Coltura  stands  the  chateau  of 
Baron  Castelmur,  in  the  Moorish  style. 

11  M.  VicoBoprano  (3566'),  Rom.  Vespran  (*  Corona  or 
Po8ia)j  the  capital  of  the  valley,  with  323  inhab.,  lies  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Maira  and  the  Albignay  which  forms  a  beautiful 
cascade  near  its  glacier.  The  formation  of  the  mountain  crests 
is  very  peculiar  here. 

The  narrow  Albigna  Valley  may  be  ascended  from  Vicosoprano  as 
far  as  the  Albigna  Glacier  (Ohiaceiajo  deW  Albigna)^  an  interesting  excur- 
sion of  4  hrs.  —  Those  who  are  not  liable  to  giddiness  are  recommended 
to  ascend  (6  hrs.)  the  Piz  Duan  (10,253'),  which  commands  a  rich  and 
varied  panorama.  The  forester  Oiov.  Stampa  at  Stampa  and  &tac.  PrevoHi 
at  Vicosoprano  are  recommended  as  guides. 

The  road  soon  after  winds  upwards  (the  old  road,  following 
the  telegr.  posts,  is  shorter)  to  (472  M.)  Caiaccia  (4790Q,  Rom. 
Casatsch  (*Po8ta,  R.  2V4,  B.  1,  A.  8/^  fr.),  the  highest  village 
in  the  Val  Bregaglia.  (Bridle-path  over  the  Septimer  to  Stalla 
on  the  Julier  route,  see  p.  322.)  Pietro  Torriani  is  recommended 
as  a  guide. 

The  road  which  crosses  the  Malcg'a  (the  W.  slope  of  which  is 
remarkable  for  its  luxuriant  vegetation)  passes  the  ruins  of  the 
Gothic  church  of  8.  Oaudenzio  on  the  1. ,  and  ascends  through 
beautiful  fir-woods  by  steep  zigzags,  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
pass  (5941')  (p.  325),  41/2  M.  from  Casaccia.  (From  one  of 
the  windings  a  path  to  the  r.  leads  in  a  few  min.  to  the  beauti- 
ful fall  of  the  Ordlegna,  the  spray  of  which  is  visible  from  the 
valley  below.  The  path  to  it  is  easily  missed  unless  the  zigzags 
of  the  road  be  followed;  comp.  p.  325.)  On  reaching  the  summit 
of  the  Maloja,  travellers  should  not  fail  to  mount  the  rock  oppo- 
site the  Maloja  Inn,  a  few  paces  from  the  road,  as  it  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  valley;  the  diligence  halts  here  for  a  few 
minutes,  during  which  the  ascent  may  easily  be  made. 

From  Maloja  to  8amadeny  see  p.  325. 


366 
90.     From  Spliigen  to  Bellinzona.     Bernardino. 

Comp  Map^  p.  360. 

45ija  M.  Diligence  in  T^js  hrs.,  fare  15  fr.  20  c,  coup«  17  fr.  55  c. 
Two -horse  carr.  from  Coire  to  Bellinzona  170,  to  Lugano  2(X)  fr. 

Splugen  (dTSY'),  see  p.  361.  The  road  intersects  the  upper 
Itheinwaldthal  (Val  Rhein)  ^  where  many  traces  of  the  devasta- 
tion caused  by  the  flood  of  1868  are  still  visible.  l*/2  M., 
Mediu  (5029');  V/^  M.,  pasture  of  Ebi  (49600,  where  the 
'Landsgemeinde'  used  formerly  to  assemble  biennially  on  the 
first  Sunday  in  May;  1^/4  M.,  Nufmen,  Ital.  Novenna  (SITC) 
(Hossli),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Areue-Tkal  (route  over  the  Valaer 
Berg  to  the  Lugnetzthal  and  Ilanz ,  see  p.  306).  About  2  M. 
farther  is 

6V2  M.  Hinterrhein  (5328')  (*Po8t) ,  the  highest  village  in 
the  valley. 

Souroe  of  the  Hinter-Shein.  The  ^/^rvng%  or  ^Ursprung''  (source),  is 
4  hrs.  to  the  S.W.  (to  the  Zapportalp  3  hrs. ,  thence  to  the  source  1  hr. 
lough  walking).  The  interest  of  this  excursion  (guide  necessary)  perhaps 
hardly  repays  the  fatigue.  The  path ,  which  is  injured  annually  by  inun- 
dations and  landslips,  for  some  distance  traverses  loose  stones  brought  down 
by  the  river,  which  is  crossed  several  times.  The  inhabitants  of  the  valley 
say  that  the  most  favourable  time  for  this  excursion  is  the  end  of  June,  as 
avalanches  are  then  no  longer  to  be  apprehended,  although  the  snow  is  still 
lying,  on  which  it  is  less  latiguing  to  walk  than  on  the  loose  stones.  On 
approaching  the  source  from  the  last  hut  occupied  by  the  shepherds 
(p.  323),  a  wild  and  barren  rock  is  seen  on  the  r.  bank,  at  the  ba«e  of 
which  the  infant  Rhine  forms  a  small  cascade.  This  bleak  district  is  known 
as  the  Hdlle  (^heir).  On  the  same  side,  farther  on,  is  a  poor  pasture  strewn 
with  rocks,  termed  by  way  of  antithesis  the  Parodies  (^paradise').  This 
narrow  valley  is  terminated  by  the  Rheinwald  or  Zappori  Olacier.  The 
Hinter-Rhein  issues  from  an  aperture  (7270') ,  in  shape  resembling  a  cow''s 
iliouth.  The  stream ,  which  from  the  first  is  of  considerable  volume ,  is 
soon  augmented  by  numerous  small  tributaries  issuing  from  crevices  of 
the  glacier.  On  the  1.  bank  lies  the  sunny  ZapportcUp  (6417'),  with  a  new 
Clubhut  of  the  Swiss  Alpine  club,  affording  room  for  twenty  persons  (oc- 
cupied by  Bergamasque  shepherds  in  1872).  From  this  Alp,  which  faces 
the  S.,  the  Rheinwald  Glacier  may  be  ascended  in  order  to  obtain  a  good 
view  of  the  vast  Advla,  or  Rheinwald  Mis. :  the  Marstholhom^  or  Mosehel- 
hom  iPiz  MoesolOy  9521'),  the  Vogelberg  (10,499'),  the  Rheinwaldhorn  iPiz 
Adula,  or  Piz  Valrhein^  11,148') ,  the  GUferhom  (11,132') ,  etc. 

The  Bemafdino  Road  crosses  the  first  bridge  (5301'),  which 
spans  the  Rhine  with  three  arches ,  Y2  M.  beyond  Hinterrhein. 
It  then  winds  up  the  steep  S.  slope  in  zigzags ,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine.  On  reaching  the  ridge,  it 
leads  through  a  narrow  and  desolate  valley  to  the  S.  Bernardino 
(6768').  The  Romans  were  acquainted  with  this  pass ,  which, 
until  the  beginning  of  the  15th  cent.,  was  known  as  the  Vogel- 
berg, At  the  period  when  St.  Bernardino  of  Siena  preached  the 
gospel  in  this  district,  a  chapel  was  erected  on  the  W.  slope, 
whence  the  pass  derived  its  present  name  (not  to  be  confounded 
with  the  Great  and  Little  St.  Bernard,  pp.  236,  233).  Near  the 
(3/4  M.)  small  Lago  Moesola^  where  several  species  of  rare  and 
beautiful  Alpine   plants  are  met  with,    stands  the  large  Casa  di 


S.  BERNARDINO.  90.  RouU.     367 

Rifugio  (Inn).  From  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  issues  the  Moesa 
by  which  the  road  runs  as  far  as  its  confluence  with  the 
Ticino  above  Bellinzona.  The  rirer  is  first  crossed  by  a  hand- 
some bridge,  named  aftier  King  Victor  Emmanuel  /.,  the  prin- 
cipal promoter  of  the  construction  of  this  route.  Before  reaching 
the  bridge  the  river  forms  a  fine  Water  fall.  The  Moschelhorn 
(9521')  is  visible  from  the  foot  of  the  bridge,  through  the  arch 
of  70'  span.  Farther  on ,  the  road  is  protected  from  avalanches 
by  a  roof.  The  S.  slope  of  the  mountain  is  far  more  precipi- 
tous than  the  N.,  but  the  windings  of  the  road  are  so  ingeniously 
contrived,  that  the  drivers  can  trot  their  horses  down  the  entire 
descent. 

IOV2M.  8.  Bernardino  (53350  [BdUlBrocco;  Hdtel  Ravizza, 
pension  5 — 7  fr. ;  Hdtel  Motto,  pension  6  fr.),  the  highest  village 
of  the  Val  Mesocco  or  Mesolcina ,  with  a  mineral  spring ,  the 
Acqua  BuonOj  which  attracts  many  invalids  in  summer.  The 
valley  opens  into  the  Riviera  (p.  84)  near  Bellinzona.  The  lower 
part  of  this  valley  contrasts  strongly  with  the  Rheinwaldthal,  in 
language,  manners ,  cultivation,  and  climate.  Everything  here  is 
Italian,  and  the  inhabitants  are  exclusively  Rom.  Cath.,  Cardinal 
Borromeo  (p.  379)  having  successfully  crushed  the  first  germs  of 
the  Reformation.  —  From  S.  Bernardino  by  the  Pasaetti  Pass  to 
the   Val  Calanca,  see  p.  368. 

The  road  now  ascends.  1^/4  M.  Fall  of  the  Moesa,  1^/4  M. 
S.  Oiacomo,  */2  M.  Cehbia.  In  order  to  see  the  fall  to  advantage, 
take  the  footpath  between  S.  Bernardino  and  S.  Giacomo,  which 
runs  first  on  the  1.,  then  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  stream.  The 
road  on  the  1.  bank  describes  numberless  zigzags ,  from  which 
charming  views  are  obtained.  The  bridge  of  S.  Giacomo  (3757') 
commands  beautiful  distant  views. 

9  M.  Mesocco  (2559'),  or  Cremeo  (*To8cani,  adjoining  the 
post-office;  Hdtel  Desteffania)  is  charmingly  situated.  Walnut- 
trees  ,  chestnuts ,  vines ,  and  rich  crops  of  maize  indicate  the 
Italian  character  of  the  climate.  The  valley  is  enclosed  by 
mountains  from  which  numerous  brooklets  are  precipitated;  be- 
tween Mesocco  and  Lostallo  there  are  eight  considerable  water- 
falls. A  charming  view  is  obtained  here  of  the  imposing  ruins 
of  the  chateau  of  Misox  (^Monsax,  Masux,  or  Mesocco'),  Y2  ^• 
below  the  village,  which  was  destroyed  by  natives  of  the  Orisons 
in  1526. 

Beyond  (IV2  M.)  Soazza  (2067')  the  bottom  of  the  valley  is 
reached,  and  the  road  becomes  level.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
Moesa,  traces  of  the  inundation  of  1868  are  still  observable. 
Near  the  second  bridge  below  Soazza,  the  brook  Buffalora 
forms  a  beautiful  cascade  near  the  road.  Near  (2^/4  M.)  Cahbiolo 
(1476'),  a  waterfall.  1  M.  Lostallo  (1562')  (Post)  with  extensive 
vineyards.     At 


368     Route  90.  ROy£R£D0. 


U  M.  Cama  (1260'),  21/2  M.  from  LosUUo,  the  first  figs 
and  mulberries  are  seen,  near  the  Capuchin  convent;  3/4  M., 
Leggia  (1125');  IV4  M.,  Orono  (1000'),  with  the  massive  tower 
of  Florentinaj  and  near  it  a  chapel  adorned  with  ancient  fres- 
coes, at  the  mouth  of  the   Val  Calanca. 

The  Val  Calaaoa ,  18  H.  in  length ,  ascends  in  a  straight  direction  to- 
wards the  Vogelberg  (or  Adula  group,  p.  366).  A  good  road,  first  on  the 
].,  then  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Oodanea*ca^  leads  by  Molina^  ArvigOj  8.  Do- 
meniea.  and  Augio  to  (12  M.)  Ro$»a  (3576')  (Inn),  the  principal  village  in 
the  valley.  (Difficult  route  hence  to  the  W.  by  the  Oiunella  PasSy  6965', 
to  Malvaglia  in  the  Val  Blegno^  p.  311.)  The  road  terminates  here.  Yal- 
bella  (43S3')i  the  highest  hamlet,  is  1  hr.  farther  up,  beyond  which  is  the 
(1  hr.)  Alp  Alogna  (46560-  Thence  to  the  E.  over  the  Passo  dei  Pa$setti 
(6806')  to  S.  Bernardino  (p.  367)  4—6  hrs.  •,  guide  advisable. 

IV4  M.  Boveredo  (GTIQ  (^Poata;  Ctoce;  *  Angela  y  landlord 
speaks  German),  the  capital  (1171  inhab.)  of  the  lower  Val 
Mesocco  ,  with  the  ruined  castle  of  the  once  powerful  Trivulzio 
family. 

8.  Vittore  (882')  is  the  last  village  of  the  Grisons,  Lumino  the 
first  of  the  Canton  Ticino.  Before  the  Moesa  bridge  is  crossed,  the 
Bernardino  route  joins  the  St.  Gotthard  Road  (p.  85).  Below  the 
confluence  of  the  Moesa  and  the  Tessin  (Ticino)  stands  Arbedo 
(813'),  a  village  connected  with  a  sad  event  in  the  history  of 
Switzerland.  On  30th  July,  1422,  a  battle  took  place  here 
between  3000  Swiss  and  24,000  Milanese,  in  which  2000  of  the 
former  fell.  They  were  interred  beneath  several  mounds  of  earth, 
termed  Chiesa  Rossa  from  their  red  colour,  near  the  church  of  St. 
Paul. 

93/4  M.  Bellinzona,  see  p.  85. 

Travellers  may  proceed  from  Bellinzona  to  Milan  (p.  394)  via  Lago 
Haggiore  (R.  95)  or  Lugano  (next  route);  comp.  BaedeJter^s  N.  Italy. 

91.     From  Bellinzona  to  Como  (Milan), 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  384. 

37<|2  M.  Diligence  to  Camerlata  twice  daily  in  T^j^  hrs.  (fare  8  fr. 
70  c).  The  passage  of  Monte  Cenere  and  the  journey  from  Lugano  to  Capo- 
lago  may  be  performed  on  foot. 

The  road  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Ticino  near  Cadenaszo 
(751',  p.  373),  33/4  M.  from  Bellinsiona  (p.  85),  and  winds  up- 
wards through  a  beautiful  chestnut  wood,  along  the  slope  of 
Monte  Cenere  (4^2  M.),  commanding  a  variety  of  fine  *view8  of 
Bellinzona  and  the  valley  of  the  Ticino ,  the  influx  of  the  latter 
into  the  Lago  Maggiore,  the  N.  part  of  that  lake,  and  Locarno. 
On  the  summit  of  the  pass  (1814')  stands  a  guard-house  (Corpo 
di  Quardia) ,  and  near  it  the  Osteria  Nuova.  The  road  then 
descends  between  the  mountains,  in  a  fertile  valley,  and  reaches 

93/4  M.  Bironico  (1420'),  where  the  Vedeggio  (a  stream 
which  rises  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Camoghe,  a  few  miles  to  the  E., 
usually  dry  in  summer)  is  reached. 


J 


MONTE  GENEROSO.         92.  RouU.     369 

The  Monte  Oamoflrh^  (7303')  is  usually  ascended  (6—7  hrs.)  from  Bel- 
linzona  or  Bironico.  Magnificent  view  of  the  broad  plain  of  Lombardy,  and 
the  entire  Alpine  chain  from  Piedmont  to  the  Valtellina.  Travellers  are 
not  recommended  to  spend  the  night  in  the  chalets  on  the  summit.  Those 
who  are  disinclined  for  this  fatiguing  walk,  may  enjoy  a  survey  of  the 
Italian  lakes  by  ascending  from  the  Osteria  Nuova  (in  2  hrs.)  to  the 
summit  of  Monte  Cenere  (see  above). 

Beyond  Bironico  the  scenery  is  picturesque,  and  the  soil  rich 
and  fertile;  the  double-peaked  Camogh^  is  kept  constantly  on 
the  1.;  33/4  M;,  Taveme  Superiori;  1/4  M. ,  Taveme  Inferiori, 
good  inn;  2^/2  M.,  Cadempino;  1  M.,  Vezia  (view  from  the 
church  of  Madonna  di  S.  Martino),   1^2  M.  Lugano. 

Towards  Lugano,  during  the  descent,  the  beauty  and  fertility 
of  the  country  increase.  The  hill  and  shrine  of  Monte  8.  Sal- 
vatore  first  become  visible ;  then  the  lake ,  in  the  clear  green 
water  of  which  the  beautiful  mountains  of  the  neighbourhood  are 
reflected.  The  road  passes  a  number  of  villas,  and  then  reaches 
the  town  with  its  flat-roofed  Jiouses ;  in  the  foreground  extensive 
Barracks. 

93/4  M.  Lugano  (9329,  Monte  8.  8alvatore,    etc.,  see  R.  92. 

The  road  from  Lugano  to  Como  leads  along  the  bank  of 
the  lake  to  (1  M.)  Paradiso,  where  the  road  to  Pambio  (see 
below)  and  the  Monte  S.  Salvatore  diverges  to  the  r.,  and  then 
skirts  the  steep  slopes  of  the  latter  mountain.  Beyond  (1  M.) 
8.  Martino  the  calcareous  rock  is  replaced  by  dolomite ,  which 
becomes  gradually  purer  and  whiter,  until  near  (2^/4  M.)  Melide 
it  changes  into  dark  porphyry.  An  unsightly  stone  Dam  across 
the  lake,  1/2  M.  long,  24  ft.  wide,  connects  Melide  with 
Bissone.  It  was  completed  in  1846  at  a  cost  of  700,000  fr. ;  its 
two  extremities  are  arched.  The  road  now  skirts  the  E.  bank 
of  the  lake ,  commanding  beautiful  views ,  and  passes  through 
Maroggia,  Melano,  and  (II/2  hr.)  Capolago  (Inn,  on  the  lake), 
where  it  quits  the  lake.  Omnibus  from  Capolago  to  Como  2  fr. 
10  c,  Camerlata  2  fr.  40  c,  Mendrisio  1  fr. ;  tickets  issued  on 
board  the  steamboat. 

11  M.  Mendrisio  (1191')  (Hotel  Mendrisio,  the  property  of 
Dr.  Pasta,  R.  21/2,  B.  IV2,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.;  AnpeloJ ,  3  M. 
from  Capolago,  a  small  town  with  2337  inhab.,  in  a  luxuriantly 
fertile  district,  possesses  large  wine-cellars  and  a  handsome 
hospital. 

The  *Konte  Oeneroio  (5561')  (M.  Oionnero,  or  Jf.  Calvaggione)^  the 
Rigi  of  Italian  Switzerland,  is  frequently  ascended  from  Mendrisio  (where 
horses  and  guides  may  be  hired,  the  latter  unnecessary)  in  4  hrs.  The 
bridle-path  ascends  by  the  wine-cellars  of  Salorino  in  zigzags  (pedestrians 
may  go  through  the  village  of  Salorino  and  follow  the  telegraph-wires) 
to  a  dale,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  (li|4  hr. ,  halfway  to  the  inn)  a 
spring  and  a  chalet  (refreshments)  are  situated.  Farther  on,  the  path 
passes  through  a  plantation  of  chestnuts,  then  through  beech-forest  to 
the  (1»|4  hr.)  *mtel  du  Gindroito  (R.  2>|2,  A.  %  L.  1(2,  D.  4  fr.  5  post 
and  telegr.  offices),  recommended  for  a  prolonged  stay.  »|4  hr.  farther, 
beyond  the  ridge,   are  the  chalets  of  Cassina,  where  a  fine  breed  of  cattle 

BiBDBK£B,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  24 


370     BouU  92.  LUGANO. 

is  reared.  From  the  hotel  to  the  hut  on  the  summit  a  steep  asc^it  of 
VI2  hr.,  past  several  peaks  of  the  Generoso.  The  *yiew  embraces  the  lakes 
of  Liigano,  Como,  and  Varese,  and  Lago  Maggiore,  the  populous  plains  of 
Lombardy,  and  the  entire  Alpine  chain  to  the  N.,  from  the  Monte  Vise 
to  the  Bernina.  At  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  figs  and  grapes  thrive 
luxuriantly;  higher  up  are  dense  forests  of  chestnuts  and  beeches,  and 
beyond  these,  broom  and  scanty  herbage.  The  mountain  abounds  in  rare 
plants.  —  The  Monte  Generoso  may  also  be  ascended  from  Maroggia  (see 
above)  \  pleasant  bridle-path  by  Rovio  (where  horses  and  guides  may  be 
hired)  to  the  top  in  4  hrs. ;  or  from  Balema  (see  below)  by  Muggio  (to 
which  there  is  a  carriage-road)  and  Scudelaite  to  the  summit  in  4 — 41(2  hrs. 

From    Mendrisio    to   Balema   (Inn)    IY2   M. ,    then   (11/2  M.) 

Chiasso  (764')  ( Angela,  or  PostaJ,  the  last  Swiss  village.    Ponte 

Chiasso,  on  the  opposite  side ,  belongs  to  Lombardy ,  and  is  the 

seat   of  the   Ital.    custom-house.      The    road   crosses   the    Monte 

Olimpino ;    during   the  descent  the  view  is  very  fine ,  embracing 

the  Lake  of  Como,  the  Villa  Raimondi  (p.  391),  and  Como,  above 

which    rise    the   Corni   di   Canzo   (p.  392)   on   the  1. ,    and  the 

Castello    Baradello    (see   below)   on   the   r.      The   road   traverses 

Borgo   Vico,  the  W.  suburb  of  Como. 

GomO)  see  p.  391.     The  station  of  the  Milan  railway  is  at 

7  M.  Gamerlata,  2  M.  distant  from  Como  (omnibus  from  the 

steamboat    to   the   station   in   35 ,    in   the   opposite   direction   In 

20   min.,    fare   1/2  f'.).     Opposite   the  station   is  the  Caffe  della 

Stazione   ed  ALbergo.     High  above  Camerlata   rises  the  lofty  and 

venerable  tower  of  the  Castello  Baradello,  where  Frederick  Barba- 

rossa  occasionally  resided.   Railway  to  Milan  in  1^2  ^-i  see  R.  98. 

92.     Lugano  and  its  Environs. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  384. 

Hotels.  *HdTEL  Du  Pabc,  in  the  suppressed  monastery  of  8.  Maria 
degli  Angioli,  on  the  S.  side  of  town,  with  a  pleasant  garden  and  a  d€- 
pendance  termed  the  Belvedere  dd  Pabc  on  the  lake  (comp.  also  the 
Villa  Vasalli,  p.  371),  R.  2i|2  — 5,  B.  1»(2,  D.  4i|2,  L.  and  A.  laj*  fr. 
(reading-room),  pension  6 — 9  fr.,  in  winter  5^(2 — 6;  *  Hotel  Washington, 
in  the  old  government  buildings,  B-.  2'|2,  B.  li|2,  D.  4,  L.  and  A.  1,  pension 
5 — 8  fr. ;  *Grand  Hotel  Suisse  ;  both  the  latter  belong  to  the  same  pro- 
prietor. —  Hotel  de  la  Couronne,  tolerable,  but  without  view.  *Bellevi3e, 
on  the  lake.  —  Post  and  TeUgraph  office  at  the  Gov.  Buildings  (p.  371). 

Restaurants.  Concordia  and  Americana,  both  on  the  lake.  Gaf4  Ferini, 
Jacchini ,  and  del  Teatro  in  the  Piazza  delta  Riforma ,  at  the  back  of  the 
Hotel  Washington. 

Lake  Baths  of  the  Societii  Salvatore  adjoining  the  Hdtel  Bellevue,  and 
Bagni  Oalleggianti  by  the  Hotel  du  Pare  (for  swimmers  •,  1  fr.  with  towels). 

SiUg^ence  to  Luino  (p.  376)  once  daily  in  2>J2  hrs. ,  coup^  3  fr.  60  c, 
int^rieur  2  fr.  90  c.  -,  steamboat-tickets  for  Lago  Maggiore  are  also  issued 
at  the  office  (two-horse  carr.  20,  one-horse  12  fr.,  incl.  fee);  to  Lucerne 
via  Bellinzona  and  the  St.  Gotthard  twice  daily ',  to  Coire  over  the  Ber- 
nardino once  daily ;  to  Camerlata  twice  daily. 

Steamboat  to  Capolago  (p.  369)  1  fr.  or  60  c. ;  to  Porlezza  2^|2  or  1  fr. 

Boats  to  Porlezza  (p.  385)  with  one  rower  7  fr. ,  two  12  fr. ,  three 
16*|2  fr. ;  to  Capolago  6,  10,  or  12  fr.,  incl.  fee. 

Carriages.  To  Luino  with  one  horse  10,  two  horses  20  fr.,  Bellinzona 
16  or  30,  Magadino  16  or  30,  Como  15  or  25,  Camerlata  16  or  30,  Varese 
16  or  30,  Baveno  22  or  40,  Fliielen  with  two  horses  140  fr.  (driver^s  fee 
extra). 

English  Church  Service  at  the  Hotel  du  Fare. 


LUGANO.  92.  Route.     371 

Lngano  (932'),  the  largest  town  in  the  Canton  of  Tieino, 
with  6024  inhab.  (124  Prot.),  is  charmingly  situated  on  the  lake 
of  the  same  name,  and  enjoys  quite  an  Italian  climate  (the  aloe 
blooms  here  in  the  open  air).  It  Is  a  very  pleasant  place  for  a 
lengthened  stay;  the  environs  display  all  the  charms  of  Italian 
mountain  scenery;  numerous  villages  and  country-seats  are 
scattered  along  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  the  lower  hills  are 
covered  yiiik  vineyards  and  gardens,  contrasting  beautifully  with 
the  dark  foliage  of  the  chestnuts  and  walnuts  in  the  back- 
ground. To  the  S.,  immediately  above  the  town,  rises  the 
Monte  8.  Salvatore ,  wooded  to  its  summit  (p.  372) ;  among  the 
mountains  towards  the  N.  the  double  peak  of  Monte  Camoghl 
(7303';  p.  369)  is  conspicuous. 

The  interior  of  the  town,  with  its  arcades,  workshops  in  the 
open  air,  and  granite-paved  streets,  is  also  thoroughly  Italian  in 
its  character.  A  variety  of  picturesque  costumes  will  be  observed 
here  at  the  Tuesday  market. 

The  once  numerous  monasteries  here  were  suppressed  between 
1848  and  1853,  with  the  exception  of  two.  The  most  important 
was  that  of  8.  Maria  degli  Angioli,  now  the  Hdtel  du  Pare.  The 
adjacent  church  contains  frescoes  by  Luini,  the  *Crucifixion,  one 
of  his  finest  works ,  the  Last  Supper  (on  the  1.  wall)  in  three 
sections,  formerly  preserved  at  the  Lyceum,  and  a  Madonna  (1st 
chap,  on  the  r.).  —  8.  Lorenzo,  the  principal  church,  on  an  emi- 
nence (fine  view  from  the  terrace),  probably  erected  by  Tommaso 
Rodari  at  the  close  of  the  15th  cent.,  has  a  tastefully  adorned 
marble  facade. 

Adjoining  the  Theatre  is  the  Hdtel  Washington,  formerly  the 
government  buildings,  with  a  cool  and  pleasant  colonnade  court. 
The  hall  contains  a  monument  to  the  architect  Canonico  di  Tesserete 
and  a  marble  bust  of  General  Dufour. 

A  small  temple  at  the  Villa  Tanzina,  where  suites  of  apart- 
ments may  be  hired,  ^4  M.  S.  of  the  Hotel  du  Pare,  contains 
a  bust  of  Washington,  ^magnum  scBculorum  decu8\  The  pro- 
prietor is  an  Italian  who  amassed  a  fortune  in  America.  —  The 
VUla  Vasalli,  charmingly  situated  near  the  H6tel  du  Pare,  of 
which  it  is  now  a  d^pendance,  has  a  beautiful  and  very  exten- 
sive garden,  containing  fine  cedars,  magnolias,  camellias,  etc.  — 
Superb  view  from  the  tower  in  the  garden  of  the  Villa  Enderlin, 
to  which  access  is  permitted  by  the  proprietor. 

The  handsome  *Park  of  M.  Ciani  (d.  1867),  extending  along 
the  N.  bay  of  the  lake  (strangers  readily  admitted,  gardener  1  fr.), 
contains  a  marble  Monument  erected  by  the  late  proprietor  to 
the  memory  of  his  parents,  and  executed  by  Vine.    Vela  in  1850. 

Opposite  the  Hotel  du  Pare,  on  the  new  and  broad  quay,  is 
a  Fountain  with  a  Statue  of  William  Tell,  8  ft.  in  height,  in 
white  sandstone,  designed  by  Vine.  Vela. 

24* 


372     RouU  92.  MONTE  BRtl. 

Delightful  excnrBion  to  the  *H<mte  8.  Salvatore  (2982'),  accent  2  hrs., 
deacent  1>|2  hr.,  guide  (4  fr.)  superfluous,  as  the  path  cannot  be  mistaken; 
horse  9  fr.,  mule  8  fr.,  incl.  fee.  About  1J2  H.  from  the  Hotel  du  Pare, 
between  a  detached  house  and  the  wall  of  a  garden ,  a  good  paved  path 
diverges  to  the  r.  from  the  road  to  Como;  2  min.  farther,  where  the  road 
divides ,  not  to  the  r. ,  but  straight  on  to  the  houses ;  between  these  the 
road  ascends,  past  the  handsome  and  conspicuous  (25  min.)  Villa  Marchino 
to  (5  min.)  the  village  of  Pazzallo^  from  which  Monte  Rosa  is  visible 
through  a  mountain  gorge.  Here  the  path  diverges  to  the  1.  from  the  broad 
road,  through  the  gateway  of  the  fourth  house,  and  ascends  to  the  1.  by  a 
path  which  cannot  be  mistaken  in  1^|2  hr.  to  the  Pilgrimage  Chapel  on  the 
summit  (refreshments  at  a  house  near  the  top,  dear).  The  *view  embraces 
sil  the  arms  of  the  Lake  of  Lugano,  the  mountains  and  their  wooded  slopes, 
especially  those  above  Lugano,  sprinkled  with  numerous  villas.  To  the  E. 
above  Porlezza  is  Monte  Legnone  (p.  387),  to  the  1.  of  which,  in  the 
extreme  distance,  are  the  snow-peaks  of  the  Bemina  \  K.  above  Lugano  the 
double  peak  of  Monte  Camoghe  (p.  369),  1.  of  this  the  distant  mountains 
of  the  St.  Gotthard  \  W.  the  chain  of  Monte  Rosa,  with  the  Matterhom  and 
other  Alps  of  the  Valais  to  the  r.  This  view  is  seen  to  the  greatest  ad- 
vantage in  the  morning,  when  Monte  Rosa  gleams  in  the  sunshine.  The 
construcion  of  a  carriage-road  and  of  a  hotel  on  the  summit  is  projected. 
In  descending,  the  route  through  Carona  (1968')  and  Melide  (p.  369)  (some- 
what longer)  may  be  chosen. 

A  drive  round  the  Monte  S.  Salvatore  (i^fz  hrs.)  is  strongly  recom- 
mended. Proceed  by  (*J2  hr.)  Pamlno,  where  a  momument  by  Vela  has 
been  erected  near  the  church  of  S.  Pietro  to  Capt.  Carloni,  who  fell  at 
Somma  Campagna  in  1848,  to  (1  hr.)  Figino^  where  the  road  approaches 
the  W.  arm  of  the  lake.  Then  skirt  the  lake,  round  the  Monie  Arbostora^ 
to  (3(4  hr.)  Morcotej  charmingly  situated  and  commanded  by  a  ruined 
castle  (*view  from  the  top),  and  to  (1  hr.)  Melide.  Thence  to  Lugano, 
see  p.  369.  —  The  churchyard  of  S.  Abbondio^  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Pambio 
(see  above),  contains  a  fine  monument  of  the  Torriani  family  by  Vela. 

The  ascent  (21(2  hrs.)  of  *Konte  Bre  (3100'),  N.E.  of  Lugano,  is  very  easy 
and  scarcely  less  interesting  than  that  of  Mte.  S.  Salvatore  (a  boy  should  be 
engaged  as  a  guide  at  Bre).  A  road  runs  inland  towards  several  mills  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain.  Thence  a  broad  and  well-constructed  path  winds  up- 
wards to  the  r.  to  the  small  village  of  Desago,  passing  a  few  groups  of  houses. 
Another  route  to  Desago  from  the  town  skirts  the  lake  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  and  then  ascends  from  hamlet  to  hamlet  through  gardens,  etc. 
Above  Desago  the  path  divides  \  both  routes  are  broad,  and  well-constructed, 
leading  round  the  mountain,  to  the  village  of  Brk  (2631')  on  its  farther  side 
(Inn,  bread  and  wine  only).  The  route  to  the  r.,  above  the  lake,  is  of 
surpassing  beauty^  that  to  the  1.  also  commands  a  fine  inland  view.  Near 
the  church  of  Bre  a  narrow  forest-path  ascends  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain.  This  path  also  divides  \  the  branch  to  the  r.  traverses  the 
highest  ridge  of  the  hill,  that  to  the  1.  leads  to  a  spur  of  the  mountain  in 
the  direction  of  Lugano.  The  summit  may  be  attained  by  either.  The 
view  of  the  several  arms  of  the  Lake  of  Lugano,  especially  in  the  direction 
of  Porlezza,  and  the  surrounding  mountains,  is  remarkably  fine.  Lugano 
itself  is  not  visible  from  the  summit,  but  from  the  above-mentioned  spur 
a  good  view  of  it  may  be  obtained.  All  these  paths  are  easily  traced. 
From  Lugano  to  Br^  about  li|2  hr.  *,  from  Bre  to  the  summit  by  the  longest 
way  about  1  hr. 

Monte  Oaprino,  opposite  Lugano,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake,  is  much  fre- 
quented on  holidays  by  the  townspeople,  many  of  whom  possess  wine-cellars 
(cantine)  in  the  numerous  cool  grottoes,  by  which  the  side  of  the  mountain 
is  honey-combed.  These  receptacles  are  guarded  by  numerous  huts,  which 
from  a  distance  present  the  appearance  of  a  village.  Wine  of  good  quality 
and  icy  coolness  is  sold  at  some  of  these  cellars  ('Asti''  recommended). 
There  is  also  a  bre  very  here. 

Excursion  to  the  ^Grotto  of  Osterto,  see  p.  385. 


373 
93.    From  Bellinzona  to  Magadino  and  Locarno. 

Comp.  Map^  p.  374. 

Diligence  to  Magadino  twice  daily  in  13J4  hr.  (2  fr.),  in  correspondence 
with  the  steamboats  on  Lago  Maggiore  \  to  Locarno  twice  daily  in  2^14  hrs. 
(2  fr.). 

The  lower  Valley  of  the  Ticino  is  a  broad,  grassy,  and 
partially  wooded  plain,  to  which  the  mountains,  although  distant, 
form  an  imposing  background.  The  soil  is  well  cultivated ,  and 
the  hills  are  covered  with  vines ;  but  the  low  ground  is  marshy 
and  unhealthy. 

At  Cadenazzo  (751 Q  the  road  to  Magadino  diverges  to  the 
W.  from  that  leading  S.  to  Lugano  over  Monte  Centre  (p.  368). 

972  ^-  Magadino  (Bellevue,  at  the  steamboat  pier),  consist- 
ing of  two  villages,  the  Upper  and  Lower,  lies  on  the  N.  bank 
of  Lago  Maggiore ,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ticino ,  in  a  marshy 
district,  and  was  seriously  damaged  by  an  inundation  in  1872. 
Steamboats  on  the  Lago  Maggiore,  see  p.  374. 

The  road  from  Bellinzona  to  Locarno  crosses  the  Ticino  by 
a  long  bridge  (p.  85).  It  passes  Monte  Caraaso,  which  affords  a 
good  survey  of  the  mountains  on  the  1.  bank,  of  Monte  Cenere, 
the  ancient  town  of  Bellinzona ,  and  the  snowy  heights  of  the 
Alps.  Then  (3  M.)  a  bridge  over  the  Sementina ,  issuing  from 
a  gorge.  Near  the  Bridge  of  Verzasca,  where  the  road  ap- 
proaches the  lake  (3  M.  from  Locarno),  the  scenery  becomes 
very  attractive. 

12  M.  Locarno  (682^)  (^Corona,  on  the  lake;  *Albergo 
Svizzero ,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town ;  Caffh  delV  XJnione, 
on  the  lake),  one  of  the  three  capitals  (2667  inhab.)  of  the 
Canton  of  Tioino,  and  a  town  of  thoroughly  Italian  character, 
although  politically  Swiss,  lies  on  the  W.  bank  of  Lago  Maggiore, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Maggia.  Citron  and  orange  trees,  the 
vine  hanging  in  festoons  from  the  plane-tree,  elms  and  poplars, 
the  graceful  campanili,  the  pretty  chapels  on  the  hills,  and  the 
azure  lake ,  all  tell  of  the  land  of  which  it  is  no  exaggeration 
to  say  in  the  poet's  words: 

'Thy  very  weeds  are  beautiful,  thy  waste 
More  rich  than  other  climes*'  fertility'. 

In  the  14th  cent.  Locarno  numbered  5000  inhab.,  and  was  a 
very  prosperous  town.  In  1553,  a  decree  of  the  intolerant  Rom. 
Cath.  inhabitants  banished  those  of  their  fellow-citizens  who  had 
espoused  the  Reformed  faith.  A  number  of  the  wealthiest  of  the 
latter  repaired  to  Zurich,  where  they  established  the  silk-manu- 
factories which  flourish  to  this  day.  Amongst  the  emigrants 
were  the  influential  families  of  the  Orelli,  Muralto,  etc. 

The  CoUegiate  Church  contains  a  few  good  pictures.  The 
handsome  Government  Buildings  are  situated  in  a  large  'piazza' 
and    public    garden.      The   pilgrimage   church   of  *Madonna  del 


374     Route  93.  VAL  MAGGIA. 

Saaso  (1168Q,  on  a  wooded  eminence  above  the  town,  commands 
a  remarkably  fine  view. 

The  busy  market  held  at  Locarno  every  alternate  Thursday 
affords  the  visitor  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  variety  of 
costumes  of  the  peasantry  of  the  neighbourhood.  On  8th  Sept., 
the  Nativity  of  St.  Mary,  every  one  appears  in  holiday  attire. 

From  Locarno  to  Domo  d'^Ossola  (i2i|2  hrs.)  a  very  attractive 
route  leads  through  the  valleys  of  Centovalli  and  Vigezzo;  (6  M.)  Jntragna 
(1299')  (Bustalli's  Inn),  where  the  carriage-road  terminates  ^  (3  hrs.)  Borg- 
none  (2316') ;  (S^t  hrs.)  Malesco  (Leone  d'Oro),  whence  there  is  a  road  to 
(1»|2  M.)  S.  Maria  Maggiore  (*Leone  d'Oro,  Stella,  Croce  di  Halta),  the 
most  considerable  place  on  the  route,  IQijz  M.  from  Domo  d'Ossola  (p.  259). 

From  Locarno  to  Airolo.  The  carriage-road  ascends  (N.W.)  the 
Val  Haggia,  following  the  course  of  the  Maggia,  which  abounds  in  cascades. 
It  leads  past  the  (3  M.)  picturesque  Ponte  Brolla  to  (4i|2  M.)  Maggia  (11380, 
the  capital  of  the  valley,  and  by  Givmaglia  and  Someo  to  (7>|2  M.)  Cevio 
(1381')  (Cafe  del  Griitli),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Rovana,  which  4  M. 
higher  up  divides  into  the  Val  di  Campo  to  the  8.  and  the  Val  di  Bosco 
to  the  N.  (route  to  the  Val  Formazza  by  Bosco  and  the  Criner  Furca^  see 
p.  144).  Then  (li|2  M.)  Bignasco  (1424')  (*Posta),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val 
Bavona.  (From  Locarno  to  Bignasco  diligence  daily  in  3iJ2  hrs.,  fare 
2  fr.  90  c.) 

[Through  the  Val  Bavona  to  Airolo  11  hrs.  A  good  road  leads  by 
Cavergno,  Fontana^  and  Foroglio  to  (9  M.)  8.  Carlo  (SISCK)  at  the  foot  of 
the  precipitous  Basodino  (10,748').  (Ascent  of  the  latter  from  the  N.E. 
side,  crossing  the  Cavergno  Olacier,  suitable  for  experienced  mountaineers 
only ;  comp.  p.  144).  Guide  necessary  (C.  Padovani  recommended)  for  the 
route  from  S.  Carlo  by  Campo^  the  Alp  Lielpey  and  the  small  Lago 
Sciundrau  to  the  Cristallina  Furca  (8474'),  on  the  N.  of  which  there  is  a 
patch  of  snow  (to  the  r.  the  Piz  Cristallina ,  9547')  \  descent  through  the 
Val  Torta  and  Cristallina  to  Ossasco  (p.  140)  and  Airolo  (p.  83.) 

The  road  in  the  Val  Maggia,  which  is  called  Val  Lavizzara  higher  up, 
next  leads  by  Prato^  at  the  mouth  of  the  vAlley  of  that  name,  which 
ascends  to  the  E.  to  the  Campo  fencca^  to  (6i|2  M.)  Peccia  (2746')  (Inn), 
where  the  road  terminates,  and  the  valley  divides  into  the  Val  Peccia  to 
the  W.  and  the  Val  Fusio  to  the  E.  In  the  latter,  IIJ2  hr.  from  Peccia., 
lies  Fusio  (4212^)  (Inn),  whence  the  traveller  may  proceed  (with  guide) 
either  to  the  N.  by  SambuccOy  Corte,  and  the  Scissello  Pass  (7697')  direct  to 
(4i|2  hrs.)  Airolo ;  or  (more  interesting)  to  the  E  to  the  (2^t  hrs.)  pass  of 
the  Campolungo-Alp  (7625')  and  past  the  small  Lago  Tremorgio  (5997')  to 
(1>|2  hr.)  Dazio  Grande  (p.  84). 


94.    Lago  Maggiore.     The  Borromean  Islands. 

steamboats  ply  on  the  lake  3  times  daily  during  the  summer:  from 
Magadino  to  Arona  in  5iJ2hrs.,  from  Luino  to  Isola  Bella  in  2i|4  hrs.,  from 
Isola  Bella  to  Arona  in  i^\  hr.  \  fares  from  Magadino  to  Arona  4  fr.  80  c. 
or  2  fr.  65  c,  from  Luino  to  Isola  Bella  1  fr.  ^  or  1  fr.  15  c,  from  Isola 
Bella  to  Arona  1  fr.  80  or  90  c,  landing  and  embarking  included.  The 
steamboats  are  the  best  and  cheapest  conveyance  to  Isola  Bella,  especially 
for  a  single  traveller  (from  Pallanza  60,  from  Stresa  40c.);  and  as  they 
touch  at  the  island  4—5  times  daily,  frequent  opportunities  are  afforded  for 
the  excursion.  Travellers  from  the  North  who  wish  to  obtain  a  glimpse 
of  the  lake  in  one  day  and  return  in  the  evening  (to  Magadino,  or  to 
Lugano  by  Luino)  leave  the  steamer  at  Pallanza  and  take  a  rowing-boat 
thence  to  the  Isola  Madre  and  back  (in  2  hrs.);  or  row  from  the  Isola 
Madre  to  the  Isola  Bella  and  take  the  steamboat  there  (in  the  latter  case 
time  very  limited).  —  Stations  (those  at  which  the  steamers  do  not  touch 
regularly  are  printed  in  JtalicSy  those  with  piers   are  printed  in  t^apitals  ; 


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LAGO  MAGGIORE.  94.  Route.     375 

the  communication  with  the  others  is  by  small  boat^  for  particulars  see 
the  '  Horaire  pour  la  Navigation  d  Vapeur  du  Lac  Majeur ') :  Magadiko, 
LocABNo,  Ascona^  Brissago,  Canobbio,  Maccagno,  Ldino,  Cannero,  OggebbiOy 
Ohiffa^  Porto  Vol  Travaglia^  Laveno,  Intra,  Pallanza,  Suna^  Fariolo^ 
Baveno,  Isola  Bella,  Stresa,  Belgirate,  Lesa,  Meina,  Angera^  Arona.  — 
On  board  the  steamers  carriages  from  Luino  to  Lugano  (p.  370)  and  from 
Magadino  to  Bellinzona  and  the  St.  Gotthard  are  offered  to  travellers. 
Caution  necessary  (comp.  p.  69). 

Boa^a.  Travellers  coming  from  the  Simplon  usually  take  a  boat  at 
Baveno  ( p.  377)  to  visit  the  Borromean  Islands'.  The  charge  for  an  ex- 
cursion not  exceeding  2  hrs.  is  fixed  for  each  rower  at  2*|2  fr.  j  for  1 — 3  pers. 
2  rowers,  for  4  —  6  pers.  3,  more  than  6  pers.  4  rowers,  so  that  the  half- 
hour''s  passage  to  the  Iso  a  Bella  is  somewhat  expensive.  Half-way  between 
Stresa  and  Baveno,  opposite  the  island,  there  is  a  ferry  where  1 — 2  fr. 
is  exacted  for  a  passage  of  scarcely  10  min. ',  the  other  boatmen  demand 
5  fr.  The  passage  from  Stresa  for  1 — 2  pers.  costs  2  fr.,  for  3  or  more  pers. 
with  2  rowers  4  fr.,  according  to  tariff.  For  the  return  from  the  island 
to  the  mainland,  to  Baveno,  Stresa,  etc.,  the  boatmen  demand  5  fr.,  but 
they  reduce  their  terms  as  the  time  for  the  departure  of  the  steamboat 
approaches  (see  above).  From  Isola  Bella  to  Isola  Madre  and  back,  incl. 
stay,  5  fr.  with  two  rowers.  Travellers  should,  if  possible,  avoid  making 
their  bargain  through  the  medium  of  a  waiter  or  commissionaire,  whose 
intervention  tends  greatly  to  increase  the  price. 

KaUway  from  Arona  to  MilaUy  Oenoa^  Turin,  see  Baedeker''»  N.  Italy. 
Railway-tickets  may  be  procured  on  board  the  steamboats,  on  the  arrival 
of  which  the  trains  leave  Arona. 

Diligence  from  Arona  twice  daily  in  6  hrs.  to  Domo  d'^Ossola  (p.  259), 
in  correspondence  with  the  diligence  over  the  Simplon  (R.  61).  —  From 
Luino  Swiss  diligence  daily  in  2^\a  hrs.  to  Lugano,  see  p.  384.  —  From 
Magadino  (in  \^\^  hr.)  and  Locarno  (in  2iJ4hrs.)  Swiss  diligence  twice  daily 
to  Bellinzona  (see  p.  373),  thence  in  summer  twice  daily  over  the  St.  Gott- 
hard to  Lucerne  in  18  hrs.  (R.  22),  and  once  daily  over  the  Bernardino  to 
Coire  in  17  hrs.  (RR.  90,  87).  Diligence-tickets  may  be  obtained  from  the 
captains  of  the  steamboats. 

The  Lago  Maggiore  (646',  greatest  depth  28000,  ^^^  Lacus 
Verhanus  of  the  Romans,  is  37  M.  in  length,  and  averages  41/2  M. 
in  width.  The  canton  of  Ticino  possesses  only  the  N.  bank  for  an 
extent  of  9  M. ;  this  pbrtion  of  the  lake  is  also  called  the  Lc^e 
of  Locarno.  The  W.  bank  beyond  the  brook  Valmaray  and  the 
E.  bank  from  Zenna  belong  to  Italy.  Its  principal  tributaries 
are  on  the  N.  the  Ticino,  on  the  W.  the  Tosa,  and  on  the  E. 
the  Tresa,  flowing  from  the  Lake  of  Lugano.  The  river  which 
emerges  from  the  S.  end  of  the  lake  retains  the  name  of  Ticino. 
The  N.  banks  are  bounded  by  lofty  mountains,  for  the  most  part 
wooded,  whilst  the  E.  shore  towards  the  lower  end  slopes  gradu- 
ally away  to  the  level  of  the  plains  of  Lombardy.  The  W.  bank 
affords  a  succession  of  charming  landscapes.  The  water  is  of  a 
green  colour  in  its  N.  arm,  and  deep  blue  towards  the  S. 

The  Steamboat  leaves  Magadino  (p.  373),  the  most  N. 
harbour  (immediately  to  the  S.  of  which  lies  Vira,  picturesquely 
jutting  into  the  lake),  and  steers  across  the  lake  to 

Locarno  (p.  373).  The  bank  is  covered  to  a  considerable 
height  with  villages,  country-houses,  and  campanili.  Below 
Locarno  the  deposits  of  the  Maggia  have  formed  a  considerable 
delta.     The   steamboat  now   skirts   the  W.  bank,  on  which   runs 


376     Route  94.  LUINO.  Logo 

the  new  road  from  Locarno  to  Pallanza.  In  the  angle  lies 
Aaconay  with  a  chateau  and  a  seminary  for  priests;  then  RoncOy 
higher  up  the  bank.  Passing  two  small  islands,  the  steamer 
next  reaches  Brissago  (•Albergo  Antico),  a  delightful  spot,  with 
picturesque  white  houses  conspicuous  from  a  great  distance,  and 
an  avenue  of  cypresses  leading  to  the  church.  The  slopes  above 
the  village  are  covered,  with  flg-trees,  olives,  and  pomegranates ; 
even  the  myrtle  flourishes  in  the  open  air.  On  a  green  plateau 
on  the  opposite  bank  lies  Pino.  8,  Agata  and  CSanobbio 
(*Albergo  del  Bissone)  are  the  first  Italian  villages.  The  latter, 
one  of  the  oldest  and  most  prosperous  on  the  lake,  lies  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Vol  Canobbino^  and  is  overshadowed  by  richly- 
wooded  mountains .  About  1  */2  M.  up  the  Val  Oanobbino 
(pleasant  walk)  lies  the  hydropathic  establishment  of  La  Salute 
(pension  8  fr.);   omnibus  at  the  pier. 

The  boat  now  steers  for  the  E.  bank  and  touches  at  the 
village  of  Maceagno,  which  consists  of  two  parts,  the  Swperiore, 
and  Inferiore.  Then  Lnino  (^Hdtel  du  Simplon ;  Vittoria ;  Posta^ 
R.  2,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.),  vdth  the  Palazzo  GriveUi  surrounded 
by  pines,  the  station  for  Lugano  (p.  384),  a  favourite  summer 
resort  on  account  of  its  beautiful  situation  and  environs.  About 
V2M.  to  the  S.,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tresa^  is  situated  Germig- 
naga,  with  the  extensive  silk-spinning  (fllanda)  and  winding 
(fllatoja)  factories  of  Gesare  Bozotti  and  Co.  of  Milan.  On 
the  W.  bank  rise  two  grotesque-looking  castles  (CastelU  di  Can- 
nero) f  half  in  ruins,  the  property  of  Count  Borromeo.  In  the 
loth  cent,  they  harboured  the  five  brothers  Mazzarda,  notorious 
brigands,  the  terror  of  the  district.  Cannero  is  beautifully 
situated  in  the  middt  of  vineyards  and  olive-groves,  which  extend 
far  up  the  slopes.  The  W.  bank  is  clothed  with  the  richest 
vegetation,  and  studded  with  innumerable  white  houses  and  a 
succession  of  picturesque  villages. 

The  small  villages  of  Oggebbio  and  Ohiffa  on  the  W.  bank  , 
and  Porto  Valtravaglia  on  the  E.  bank,  where  the  steamers  do 
not  always  touch,  are  next  passed.  In  a  wooded  bay  beyond 
the  last  named  lies  Calde,  with  the  ancient  tower  of  the  Castello 
di  Calde  on  an  eminence.  Then  Laveno  (*Posta;  Moro;  Stella), 
a  village  of  some  importance,  beautifully  situated  in  a  bay  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Boesio,  formerly  a  fortified  harbour  for  the  Austrian 
gunboats  (opposite  to  it  a  dismantled  fort).  The  most  beautiful 
mountain  on  the  lake  is  H  Sasflo  del  Ferro  (5918^) ,  which  rises 
behind  Laveno,  and  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  lake 
and  of  the  snow-peaks  of  the  Monte  Rosa  chain.  —  Omnibus 
daily  at  7  a.m.  by   Varese  to  Como,  see  p.  391. 

As  the  boat  approaches  Intra,  a  rotunda  with  a  statue,  be- 
longing to  the  Villa  Prina,  becomes  visible.  The  valley,  which 
here  opens  to  the  W.,  suddenly  discloses  a  strikingly  picturesque 


Maggiore.  PALLANZA.  94.  RouU.     377 

view  of  the  N.  neighbours  of  Monte  Rosa:  first  the  Strahlhorn, 
then  the  Mischabel  and  the  Simplon.  They  are  lost  to  view  as 
the  steamboat  turns  the  point  between  Intra  and  Pallanza,  but 
soon  re-appear,  and  remain  visible  until  Isola  Bella  is  reached. 
From  the  island  itself  they  are  hidden  by  the  mountains  of  the 
valley  of  the  Tosa. 

Intra  (Vitello  d*Oro;  Leone  d^Oto)^  a  flourishing  town  with 
manufactories  chiefly  belonging  to  Swiss  proprietors,  is  situated 
on  an  alluvial  soil,  between  the  mouths  of  two  mountain  streams,  • 
the  8.  Giovanni  and  8.  Bernardino.  —  Omnibus  daily  between 
Intra,  Pallanza,  Gravellona,  Omegna,  and  Orta:  comp.  pp.  260, 
380. 

A  church  on  the  promontory  of  8.  Remigio,  which  here  juts 
into  the  lake,  occupies  the  site  of  a  Roman  temple  of  Venus. 
This  is  the  widest  part  of  the  lake.  The  little  Isola  8.  Gio- 
vanni, with  its  chapel,  house,  and  gardens,  is  one  of  the  Bor- 
romean  Islands. 

Pallania  (*Grand  Hotel  Pallanza,  a  large  house,  beautifully  situ- 
ated, R.  3,  B.  li|2,  D.  4i|2,  A.  and  L.  lijs  fr. ;  omnibus  on  the  quav.  — 
PosTA  \  Italia.  —  Boat  with  one  rower  to  Isola  Hadre  i^Jz,  with  two  3  fr. ; 
to  Isola  Bella  2i|2  or  4i|2,  to  both  islands  Sijs  or  6,  to  Stresa  2il8  or  4,  to 
Laveno  2'|2  or  4>|2,  to  Luino  6  or  10  fr.,  etc.  —  Diligence  to  Domo  a'Dssola  in 
5  hrs.,  on  the  arrival  of  the  steamboat  from  Magadino.  Omnibus  to  Orta,  see 
above),  the  seat  of  the  authorities  of  the  province,  is  a  thriving 
little  town  (4000  inhab.),  delightfully  situated  opposite  the  Bor- 
romean  Islands.  Some  of  the  gardens  here  (Rovellij  Cerutti,  etc.) 
are  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  lake  here  forms  an  extensive  bay,  4^2  M.  long  and  2  M. 
wide,  running  in  a  N.W.  direction,  at  the  N.  extremity  of  which 
is  the  influx  of  the  impetuous  Tosa  (Toce).  On  the  N.E. 
bank  lies  8una^  on  the  S.W.  Fariolo  f Leone  d'Oro) ,  where  the 
Simplon  road  leaves  the  lake  (comp.  p. '260);  the  steamboat  does 
not  always  touch  at  these  two  stations.  Then  Baveno  (*BeUevue; 
Beaurivage;  Hdtel  Sempione) ,  a  small  town  with  1300  inhab., 
the  usual  starting-point  of  travellers  from  the  Simplon  for  a  visit 
to  the 

^Borromean  Islands.  The  steamers  touch  at  the  Jsola  Bella, 
the  most  S.  of  these,  which,  together  with  the  Isola  Madre,  be- 
longs to  the  Borromeo  family.  Between  these  two  is  situated  the 
Isola  dei  Pescatori ,  or  8uperiore ,  the  property  of  the  fishermen 
who  inhabit  it.  The  fourth  island  to  the  N.  is  the  Isola  8. 
Giovanni,  already  mentioned. 

Count  Vitaleo  Borromeo  (d.  1690)  erected  a  chateau  on  "Isola 
Bolla,  and  converted  the  barren  rock  into  beautiful  gardens, 
rising  on  10  terraces  400'  above  the  lake ,  and  containing  the 
most  luxuriant  products  of  the  south :  lemon-trees,  cedars,  mag- 
nolias, cypresses,  orange-trees,  laurels,  magnificent  oleanders,  etc. 
(evening  light  most  favourable  for  the  view).    Grottoes  of  shells, 


378     B<mU  94.  STRESA.  Logo 

fountainB  (dry),  mosaics,  stataes,  etc.  meet  the  eye  in  profusion, 
but  iu  somewhat  questionable  taste. 

The  Chdteau,  the  size  of  which  is  quite  disproportionate  to 
the  extent  of  the  island,  is  richly  decorated,  and  contains  a 
Collection  of  Pictures  more  numerous  than  valuable.  The  N.  wing 
is  in  ruins.  The  view  through  the  arches  of  the  long  galleries 
under  the  chateau  is  very  striking.  A  domestic  hurries  visitors 
through  the  chateau  (fee  Y2 — ^  ^'-  ^or  each  pers.),  and  consigns 
them  to  a  gardener ,  who  shows  the  garden  with  equal  despatch 
for  a  similar  fee.  Adjacent  to  the  chateau  is  the  *H6tel  du 
Dauphin  or  Delfino  (R.  2,  L.  V2>  B-  1»  !>•  ^»  A.  3/^  fr.).  Ex- 
cursion of  2  hrs.  by  boat  to  the  other  islands  with  one  rower 
21/2,  with  two  5  fr. 

The  *Ibo1a  Madre  on  its  S.  side  resembles  the  Isola  Bella, 
and  is  laid  out  in  seven  terraces,  with  lemon  and  orange-trellises ; 
on  the  upper  terrace,  a  dilapidated  Palazzo,  commanding  a 
beautiful  view.  On  the  N.  side  there  are  deligthful  walks  in  the 
English  style ,  with  luxuriant  vegetation ,  which  render  it  a  far 
pleasanter  resort  than  the  Isola  Bella  (fee  1  fr.).  —  The  Isola 
del  Pesoatori  is  entirely  occupied  by  a  small  fishing  village,  the 
single  open  space  being  just  sufficient  for  drying  the  nets. 

The  scenery  around  the  Borromean  Islands  rivals  that  of  the  Lake  of 
Como  in  grandeur,  and  perhaps  surpasses  it  in  the  softness  of  its  character. 
Monte  Rosa  is  not  visible^  the  snow-mountains  to  the  y.W.  are  the  glaciers 
and  peaks  of  the  Simplon  \  of  the  nearer  mountains  the  most  conspicuous 
are  the  white  granite-rocks  near  Baveno  (p.  260).  The  traveller  coming 
from  the  N.  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the  loveliness  of  these  banks, 
studded  with  innumerable  habitations,  and  clothed  with  southern  vegetation 
(chestnuts,  mulberries,  vines,  figs,  olives);  the  extensive  lake  with  its 
deep  blue  waters,  and  the  beautiful  girdle  of  snowy  mountains,  combining 
the  stem  grandeur  of  the  High  Alps  with  the  charms  of  a  southern  clime. 
Rousseau  at  one  time  intended  to  make  the  Borromean  Islands  the  scene 
of  his  'Kouvelle  H^loise**,  but)  considered  them  too  artificial  for  his  romance, 
in  which  human  nature  is  portrayed  with  such  a  masterly  hand. 

The  steamboat  no  steers  S.  to 

Stresa  (*  Hotel  des  Iles  Borrom&es  with  diligence  -  office,  ijs  M. 
from  the  landing  place,  R.  from  2i|2,  B.  lijz,  L.  and  A.  ii|2,  D.  4  fr.,  pension 
in  summer  71)2 — 9i|2  fr.,  in  winter  5—6  fr.,  boat  without  rower  IM2  for  the 
first,  1  fr.  for  each  subsequent  hr. ;  *  Hotel  db  Milan,  R.  2,  D.  3,  L.  and 
A.  1  fr. ;  *  Hotel  du  Simplon  ,  both  new  *,  Albebgo  Reals,  Italian  inn. 
One-horse  carr.  to  Domo  d'Ossola  15 — 20  fr. ,  ttoo-horse  30—35  fr. ;  to  Arona 
with  one  horse  6  fr. ;  carriages  for  the  Simplon  route  to  Sion  may  also  be 
procured.  No  supplementary  carriages  provided  when  the  diligence  is  full), 
situated  on  the  coast  opposite  the  Isola  Bella.  The  handsome 
Rosminian  Monastery,  half-way  up  the  mountain  is  now  occupied 
by  a  school.  Beautiful  cypresses  in  the  Churchyard.  —  Ascent 
of  Monte  Motterone,  see  p.  380. 

As  the  steamer  steers  aloDg  the  W.  bank,  the  skilful  construction 
of  the  high-road,  which  in  many  places  is  supported  by  piers 
of  masttnry,  attracts  attention.  The  banks  gradually  become  flatter, 
and  Monte  Rosa  makes  its  appearance  in  the  W.  The  boat  touches 
at  Belgirate  (H6tel  Borromeo),  Lesa,  and  Meina  on  the  W.,  and 


Maggiore.  ARONA.  94.  RouU.     379 

at  Angera  (only  once  daily)  on  the  E.  bank^  the  handsome  chateau 
above  the  latter  belongs  to  Count  Borromeo.  The  steamer  then 
finally  stops  at  the  railway-station  below  Arona. 

▲rona  (TSSQ  (*Italia  or  Post,  diligence  -  office ;  *Albergo 
Reale,  both  on  the  quay;  Cafe  adjoining  the  Albergo  Reale; 
Cafi  du  Lac^  by  the  quay),  an  ancient  town  on  the  W.  bank, 
with  3153  inhab.,  extends  upwards  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  In 
the  principal  church  of  8,  Maria  ^  the  chapel  of  the  Borromean 
family,  r.  of  the  high -altar,  contains  an  *Altar- piece,  the  Holy 
Family,  a  genuine  work  of  Qaudenzio  Vinci;  it  is  surrounded 
by  5  other  smaller  pictures,  the  upper  representing  God  the 
Father,  at  the  sides  eight  saints  and  the  donatrix. 

On  a  height  overlooking  the  entire  district,  172^-  N-  ®^  *^® 

station  and  pier,  is  a  colossal  Statue  of  8.  Carlo,  70'  in  height, 

resting  on  a  pedestal  42'  high,  erected  in  1697  in  honour  of  the 

celebrated  Cardinal,  Count  Carlo  Borromeo,  Archbishop  of  Milan, 

born  here  in  1538,  died  1584,  canorfised  1610. 

The  head,  hands,  and  feet  of  the  statue  are  of  bronze,  the  robe  of 
wrought  copper.  Notwithstanding  its  enormous  dimensions,  the  statue  is 
not  devoid  of  artistic  merit,  except  that  the  earS  are  somewhat  out  of 
proportion.  The  various  parts  are  held  together  by  iron  clamps,  and  by 
stout  masonry  in  the  interior.  By  means  of  ladders,  kept  in  readiness  in 
the  neighbourhood  (feei),  the  lower  part  of  the  robe  can  be  attained  on 
the  W.  side,  whence  the  interior  may  be  entered.  The  venturesome  climber 
may  now  ascend  by  means  of  iron  bars  to  the  head  of  the  statue,  which 
will  accommodate  3  persons.  A  window  is  introduced  at  the  back  of  the 
statue.  The  suffocating  heat  and  the  number  of  bats  which  infest  the 
interior  render  the  ascent  far  from  an  enjoyable  undertaking. 

Relics  of  S.  Carlo  are  preserved  in  the  neighbouring  Church. 
Near  it  an  extensive  Ecclesiastical  Seminary. 

Pedestrians  returning  to  Switzerland  should  direct  their  luggage 
at  Arona  to  Domo  d'Ossola,  poste  restante,  and  after  visiting  the  Borromean 
Islands,  proceed  by  Stresa  to  Orta  over  *  Monte  Motierone^  see  below  \  thence, 
or,  if  more  convenient,  from  Oravellona  (p.  260),  on  foot  or  by  carriage  to 
Domo  d'Ossola  (p.  269),  from  which  the  Swiss  diligence  to  Brieg  over  the 
Simplon  starts. 

Railway  by  Novara  to  Turin^  Alessandria^  and  Oenoa^  see  Baedeker^ s 
N.  Italy. 

The  Railway  from  Arona  to  Milan  (in  2i|4 — 21(2  hrs.  ^  fares 
8  fr.  5,  5  fr.  85,  4  fr.  15  c.)  runs  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  lake,  crosses  the 
TicinOy  the  boundary  between  Piedmont  and  Lombardy  (till  1859  the 
frontier  of  Austria  and  Italy),  and  reaches  8e$to  Calende  (Posta),  at  the 
8.E.  extremity  of  the  Lago  Maggiore,  at  the  efflux  of  the  Ticino.  Stations 
Vergiate  and  Somma.  A  sandy  and  sterile  tract  is  traversed  until  the 
train  reaches  stat.  Oallarate  ( where  the  line  to  Varese  diverges ),  a  con- 
siderable town  ( 5200  inhab.)  at  the  S.  E.  base  of  a  chain  of  hills,  and  at 
the  commencement  of  the  extensive  and  fertile  plain  which  the  railway 
to  Milan  now  traverses.  Maize,  mulberries,  and  vines  flourish  here 
luxuriantly.  Stations  Busto  Arsizio^  Legnano^  Parabiago^  Rhdy  Musocco. 
■ilan,  see  p.  394. 


380 

95.    From  Stresa  to  Vaxallo. 

Monte  Motterone.    Lake  of  Orta.    Yal  Sesia. 

Three  days  suffice  tu  explore  a  district,  which,  though  seldom  visited, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  S.  Alps.  Travellers  from  the  Simplon 
should ,  after  visiting  the  Borromean  Islands ,  begin  this  excursion  at 
S  tret  a  (p.  378),  and  terminate  it  at  Arona ;  or  Or  avellona  (p.  260)  may 
be  taken  as  the  stavting-point,  and  Stresa  the  termination,  in  which  case 
the  portion  between  Orta  and  Varallo  must  be  traversed  twice.  From 
Stresa  or  Isola  Bella  to  Orta  7,  from  Orta  to  Varallo  5  hrs.  walking, 
from  Varallo  to  Arona  or  l^ovara  about  6  hrs.  drive.  —  A  guide  (to  the 
summit  of  the  pass  4,  to  Orta  8  fr.  and  gratuity  ^  Oiovanni  Morandi  at 
Baveno  speaks  French)  should  be  taken  as  far  as  the  culminating  point  of 
the  pass,  or  to  the  chalets,  especially  if  the  traveller  propose  to  ascend  to 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  (2  hrs.  additional),  which  in  favourable 
weather  he  should  not  fail  to  do.  A  supply  of  provisions  is  also  necessary 
for  the  excursion,  as  little  besides  milk  can  be  procured.  Guides  are 
more  easily  met  with  at  Stresa  than  on  the  island.  At  Orta,  mules  may 
be  hired,  but  at  high  charges. 

The  Monte  Kotterone,  a  long  mountain  ridge,  separate!^  Lago 
Magglore  from  the  Lake  of  Orta,  and  1b  crossed  by  a  footpath 
(road  in  course  of  construction)  from  Stresa  or  Isola  Bella  to  Orta 
(7  hrs.).  The  path  begins  at  the  landing-place  of  the  boats  opposite 
the  island,  and  ascends  rapidly  by  the  r.  bank  of  the  brook  as  far 
as  the  (1/2  l*r.)  village,  beyond  which  it  pursues  a  N.  direction 
through  the  chestnut-wood  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  (^2  hr.), 
commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  Lago  Magglore.  On  (Va  hr.) 
emerging  from  the  wood,  the  path  ascends  to  the  W.,  traversing 
heath  and  pasture ;  in  1/2  hr.  it  passes  three  masses  of  rock, 
crosses  the  brook,  and  (3/4  hr.)  reaches  a  small  group  of  houses 
(^Ristorante  alV  Alpe  VoLpe),  10  min.  below  the  culminating 
point  of  the  pass.     The  summit  of  the  mountain  may  be  attained 

hence  in  1  hr. 

The  extensive  prospect  commanded  by  the  summit  of  *Konte  Mottorone 
(4881'),  or  MargotzolOy  which  might  be  termed  the  Rigi  of  the  S.  Alps, 
embraces  the  entire  amphitheatre  of  mountains  from  Monte  Rosa  to  the 
Ortler  in  the  Tyrol.  To  the  r.  of  Monte  Rosa  appear  the  snow-mountains 
of  Monte  Moro,  Pizzo  di  Bottarello,  Simplon,  Monte  Leone,  Gries,  and 
St.  Gotthard,  farther  £.  the  conical  Stella  above  Chiavenna,  and  the  long, 
imposing  ice-range  of  the  Bemina,  which  separates  the  Val  Bregaglia 
(p.  363)  fron.  the  Valtellina  (p.  843).  At  the  spectator's  feet  lie  six  different 
lakes,  the  Lake  of  Orta,  Lago  Maggiore,  Lago  di  Monate,  Lago  di  Comabbio, 
Lago  di  Biandrone,  and  Lago  di  Varese  \  farther  to  the  r.  stretch  the  ex- 
tensive plains  of  Lombardy  and  Piedmont,  in  the  centre  of  which  rises 
the  lofty  cathedral  of  Milan.  The  Ticino  and  the  Sesia  meander  like 
silver  threads  through  the  plains,  and  by  a  singular  optical  delusion  fre- 
quently appear  to  traverse  a  lofty  table-land.  The  simultaneous  view  of 
the  Isola  Madre  in  Lago  Maggiore  and  the  Isola  S.  Giulio  in  the  Lake  of 
Orta  has  a  remarkably  picturesque  effect.  The  mountain  itself  consists  of 
a  number  of  barren  summits,  studded  with  occasional  chalets  shaded  by 
trees,  but  its  base  is  encircled  by  chestnut-trees,  and  surrounded  by  a  rich 
and  fertile  plain. 

At  the  chalets,  25  min.  from  the  summit  of  the  pass,  milk 
may  be  procured;  (74  hr.)  the  solitary  church  of  Madonna  dU 
Lucciago,  (^/4  hr.)  Chegino,  (1/4  hr.)  ArmenOy  (40  min.)  Mianno 
are  successively   passed ,   and  (^2  ^^0  ^^^  high-road  is  reached 


OUTA.  95.  Route.     381 

(9/4  M.  from  Orta)  near  the  pension  Roneheiti  Poata.  A  short 
distance  beyond  the  latter  a  path  diverges  from  the  road  to  the 
r.,  ascending  in  10  min.  to  the  Saero  Monte  (see  below),  which 
may  now  be  most  conveniently  visited  in  passing. 

Orta  (1220')  (*Leofie  d'Oro;  *H6U18.  Oiulio,  both  on  the  quay; 
one-horse  carr.  to  Gravellona  8  fr.),  a  small  town  with  narrow 
streets,  paved  with  marble  slabs,  is  most  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  promontory  extending  into  the  lake ,  at  the  base  of  a  pre- 
cipitous cliff.  At  the  S.  entrance  of  the  town  is  the  handsome 
villa  of  the  Marquis  Natta  of  Novara. 

Omnibus  and  Diligence  from  Orta  daily  to  Omegna  iPo&tA)^  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  Lago  di  Orta,  and  thence  via  Qravellona  (p.  260)  to  Pallanza 
(p.  377) ;  also  daily  to  QozzanOy  terminus  of  the  railway  to  Novara  (see 
Baedeker's  N.  Italy). 

Above  Orta  rises  the  *8aoro  Konte  (ascent  between  the  two  hotels), 
a  beautifully  wooded  eminence,  laid  out  as  a  park,  on  which  20  chapels 
were  erected  in  the  16th  cent,  in  honour  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi,  each 
containing  a  scene  from  the  life  of  the  saint.  The  life-size  figures  are 
composed  of  terra  cotta,  highly  coloured,  with  a  background  'al  fresco"* ;  as 
a  whole,  though  destitute  of  artistic  worth,  the  representations  are 
animated  and  effective.  The  best  groups  are  in  the  13th,  16th,  and  20th 
chapels,  the  latter  representing  the  canonisatioi^  of  the  saint  and  the 
assembly  of  cardinals.  The  *Totper  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  commands 
an  admirable  panorama^  the  snowy  peak  of  Monte  Rosa  rises  to  the  W. 
above  the  lower  intervening  mountains.  The  '■Eremita  del  Monte''  expects 
a  fee  of  1  fr.,  for  showing  the  above-mentioned  three  chapels. 

In  the  Lake  of  Orta  (IY2  M-  ii^  breadth,  9  M.  in  length), 
opposite  Orta,  rises  the  rocky  island  of  S.  Oiulio,  covered 
with  trees  and  groups  of  houses  (boat  there  and  back  1  fr.). 
The  Church,  founded  by  St.  Julius,  who  came  from  Greece 
in  379  to  convert  the  inhabitants  of  this  district  to  Christianity, 
has  been  frequently  restored;  it  contains  columns  of  porphyry, 
a  mosaic  pavement,  several  good  reliefs,  a  handsome  pulpit  in 
the  Romanesque  style,  some  ancient  frescoes,  and  in  the  sacristy 
a  Madonna  by  Gaudenzio  Ferrari. 

On  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake,  opposite  the  island,  the  white 
houses  of  the  village  of  Fella  peep  from  the  midst  of  vineyards, 
chestnut,  and  walnut-trees.  Boat  from  Orta  to  Pella  with  2  row- 
ers 2  fr. 

A  path  towards  the  S.  winds  upwards  from  Pella,  through  a  grove  of 
chestnut  and  fruit-trees,  in  lij^  hr.  to  Madonna  del  Sasso  (2244'),  the 
picturesque  church  of  the  village  of  Boleito.  An  open  space  by  the  church, 
on  the  brink  of  a  precipice  rising  many  hundred  feet  perpendicularly  above 
the  lake,  commands  a  fine  prospect. 

At  Pella  mules  may  be  procured  for  the  journey  over  the 
Colma  to  Varallo  (5  hrs.,  guide  unnecessary).  A  steep  path 
ascends  the  hill  to  the  W. ,  traversing  luxuriant  gardens  (vines, 
flgs,  pumpkins,  fruit-trees);  in  12  min.  the  ascent  to  the  r.  must 
be  avoided.  In  1  hr.  (from  Pella)  Arola  is  reached,  at  a  small 
chapel  beyond  which  the  ascent  to  the  r.  must  again  be  tfvoided ; 
the  path  pursues  a  straight  direction  and  soon  descends.  The 
Pellino ,  a  mountain  torrent ,  descending  from  the  Colma ,  forms 


382     Route  96.  VARALLO.  From  Siresa 

(5  min.)   a   picturesque   waterfall.     Beautiful  retrospective  views 
of  the  lake.     The  path  now  ascends  through  a  shady  wood,    be- 
tween disintegrated  blocks  of  granite  which  crumble  beneath  the 
touch,  to  the  Col  di  Colma  (2V2  hrs.  from  Pella),  a  ridge  con- 
necting MonU  Piztigone  with  Monte  Oinistrella.    The  prospect  of 
the  Alps  is  beautiful,  embracing  Monte  Rosa,  the  lakes  of  Orta 
and  Varese,  and  the  plain  of  Lombardy.     In  descending  on  the 
W.  side  (to  the  r.),  the  traveller  overlooks  the  fruitful  Val  Sesia, 
with   its   numerous   villages.     The  path,  again  traversing  groves 
of  chestnut  and  walnut-trees,  carpeted  with  turf  and  wild-flowers 
now    leads    through    the    Val  Duggia   to    (1    hr.)   Civiaseo  and 
(1  hr.) 

VaraUo  flSlSO  (*Italia;  *Po8ta;  Falcone  Nero),  the  principal 
village  (3200  inhab.)  in  the  valley  of  the  Sesia,  a  stream  which 
is  frequently  dry  in  summer.  The  old  town  and  the  Sacro 
Monte,  when  seen  through  the  arches  of  the  bridge,  have  an 
extremely  picturesque  aspect.  In  the  town  a  monument  has 
been  erected  to  Victor  Emmanuel. 

The  *  Sacro  KonteilOSi'),  tbe  object  of  numerous  pilgrimages ,  rises 
in  the  immediate  vicit^  of  the  town.  It  is  attained  in  ^^  hr.  by  a  path 
shaded  by  beautiful  trees ,  .but  the  enjoyment  is  somewhat  marred  by  the 
importunities  of  numerous  beggars.  The  summit,  surmouijfed  by  a  chapel  and 
crucifix,  commands  a  magnificent  view.  Besides  the  church,  fountains,  etc., 
there  are  in  all  46  Chapels,  or  Oratories,  on  the  Monte  Sacro,  many  of  them 
buried  among  the  trees.  They  all  contain  representations  of  scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Saviour,  in  terra  cotta,  with  life-size  figures  arranged  in 
groups.  Each  chapel  is  devoted  to  a  different  subject  \  the  1st,  for  example, 
represents  the  Fall,  the  2nd  the  Annunciation,  and  so  on  to  the  46th,  which 
contains  the  Entombment  of  the  Virgin.  Some  of  the  frescoes  by  Pelegrino 
Tibaldi  and  Oaudentio  Ferrari  are  well  worthy  of  inspection  \  even  the 
external  decorations  are  not  entirely  devoid  of  interest.  This  ^Nttova 
Oerusalemme  nel  Scicro  Monte  di  Varallo^  was  founded  by  Bernardino  Caloto, 
a  Milanese  nobleman,  with  the  sanction  of  Pope  Innocent  VIII.  Ab  a 
resort  of  pilgrims,  it  did  not  come  into  vogue  until  after  the  visits  of 
Cardinal  Borromeo  (p.  379)  in  1678  and  1584 ,  from  which  period  most 
of  the  chapels  date. 

Yarallo  is  admirably  adapted  as  head-quarters  for  excursions 
to  the  very  attractive  and  easily  accessible  valleys  in  the  vicinity. 

The  carriage  -  road  to  Arena  descends  the  picturesque  valley 
of  the  Sesia  to  (6  M.)  Borgo-Sesia,  (J^h  M.)  Bomagnano  (Post); 
quitting  the  Val  Sesia,  it  then  crosses  the  mountains  to  (71/2  M-) 
Borgomanero,  and  (6  M.)  Arona  (p.  379).  —  Omnibus  twice  daily 
from  VaraUo  to  Novara,  junction  of  the  railways  to  Arona,  Milan, 
Alessandria  (Genoa),  and  Turin.   Comp.  Baedeker's  Northern  Italy. 

From  Varallo  to  Macugnaga  (p.  262)  several  mountain-paths 
lead,  all  fatiguing,  and  traversing  difficult  passes. .  The  shortest  ( 15  good 
hrs.)  leads  by  Carcoforo  in  the  Val  Sermenta  and  the  Col  di  Botiggia 
(or  Pasto  Piana).  From  Varallo  by  Valmaggia  and  Vocca  to  Balmuccia  in 
the  Val  Sesia  is  a  drive  of  i^2  br.  (One-horse  carr.  6  fr.,  including  fee.) 
The  entire  Val  Sermenza  must  then  be  ascended  on  foot  by  a  rough,  half- 
paved  path,  by  Boccioletto  and  Rimaseo  (the  higher  of  the  two  poor,  but 
expensive  inns  is  the  better),  in  6  good  hrs.  to  Carco/oro,  where  an  ex- 
perienced guide  should  be  engaged  for  crossing  the  pass.  In  the  Vol  4i 
Quarazza,  into  which  the  pedestrian  descends  to  the  is. W.,  are  two  magni- 


to  Varallo.  FUBCA  Dl  BETTA.  96.  RouU,     383 

ficent  waterfalla,  frequently  viaited  by  travellers  on  their  way  to  Macngnaga 
from  the  N.  or  E.  From  Garcoforo  to  Macugnaga  7^t  hrs.  —  A  route  of 
the  same  length  is  that  over  the  Col  delta  Moriana^  leading  from 
Garcoforo  to  Pestarena  (bridle-path  on  the  N.  side  as  far  as  the  summit  of 
the  pass).  —  Another  path  leads  from  Rimaseo  (see  above)  N.  W.  through 
the  Valle  Piccolo  to  Rima  (poor  inn),  7  hrs.  from  Varallo,  whence  another 
extremely  fatiguing  pass,  the  Little  Turlo  or  Col  del  Piccolo  Altare^  by 
no  means  recommended,  traverses  the  mountain  to  the  Val  di  Quarazta  (from 
Bima  to  Macugnaga  8  hrs.).  —  Others  prefer  making  a  digression  to  Alagna 
(3950',  see  below),  in  a  singularly  beautiful  situation ,  and  the  Turlo  Pase 
(9088'),  which,  however,  is  also  difficult  and  deficient  in  interest.  —  Another 
route  ascends  N.  through  the  Val  Mastallone  by  Fobello  to  Ponte  Orande 
(p.  261) ,  and  thence  to  Macugnaga. 

From  Varallo  to  Le  Breuil  (p.  268)  by  Qres»oney  two  days' journey. 
Conveyance  from  the  post-office  at  Varallo  daily  to  (16i(2  M.)  Mollia  in 
3^12  hrs.  (fare  2  fr.),  ascending  the  Val  Sesia  (see  above),  with  which  the 
Val  di  Sermenza  unites  at  Balmuceia.  From  Mollia  (^Albergo  Valsesiano), 
where  the  road  terminates,  to  Riva  (3780')  (tolerable  inn)  2  hrs.  Several  of 
the  peaks  of  Monte  Rosa  now  become  visible,  of  which  a  still  finer  view 
is  obtained  from  Alafftta  (3960')  (Inn).  Travellers  proceeding  to  Gressoney 
must  return  from  Alagna  to  Riva.  From  Alagna  the  difficult  and  unattrac- 
tive Turlo  Pass  (9088')  lead?  to  the  N.  to  Macugnaga  (see  p. 262,  and  above) ; 
and  the  Passo  d^Ollen  (9193')  to  the  W.  to  Oressonep  la  Trin  ti^  lijghr.  to 
the  N.  of  Oressonep  St.  Jean  (see  below).  > 

Ascending  gradually  from  Riva  for  Vjz  h%  in  the  Val  VognOy  the  path 
passes  through  several  miserable  villages,  then  forms  a  sharp  angle  to  the 
r.  and  mounts  a  precipitous  slope  (in  2  hrs.)  to  the  Ool  di  Yaldobbia  (8359'), 
the  hospice  of  whioh  is  visible  during  the  last  if^  hr.  Here  refreshments 
and  rough  accommodation  for  the  night  may  be  procured.  The  path  de- 
scends still  more  precipitously,  at  first  traversing  a  snow-field  and  loose 
stones,  and  finally  pine-forest,  in  2  hrs.  to  Gressoney  St.  Jean  (4494') 
(*If6tel  et  Pension  Mont  Rose).  The  view  from  the  Col  di  Valdobbia  is  in- 
significant, but  embraces  a  charming  survey  of  the  Val  Gressoney  with  its 
rich  pastures,  pine-clad  slopes,  groups  of  cottages,  and  picturesque  water- 
falls. Towards  the  N.  it  is  terminated  by  the  Lyskamm  (comp.  p.  274) ;  to 
the  N.W.  rises  the  snow-clad  Orau-Haupt  (11,702'). 

Descending  the  valley  from  Gressoney,  the  traveller  reaches  Pont 
St.  Martin  in  the  Dora  Valley,  on  the  road  from  Aosta  to  Ivrea  (see 
Baedeker^s  If.  Italy).,  in  5  hrs  ^  or  in  4  hrs.  over  the  Ranzdla-Furke  (7182') 
to  Brusson  (4521')  in  the  Challant  Valley,  and  in  4  hrs.  more  by  the  Col 
de  Joux  to  Chdtillon  (p.  269). 

The  direct  route  from  Gressoney  to  Lc  Breuil  is  more  interesting,  but 
more  fatiguing.  The  path  gradually  ascends  in  the  Val  Gressoney  for  2  hrs., 
then  turning  to  the  1.,  ascends  rapidly  in  1  hr.  to  a  chapel  commanding  a 
magnificent  prospect  of  the  Lyskamm,  the  Lys  Glacier,  and  three  peaks  of 
Monte  Rosa.  After  another  hour's  steep  climbing,  the  Furca  di  Betta  (8638') 
is  attained,  whence  the  chain  of  the  Pennine  Alps,  rising  above  the  Val 
d'Ayas,  and  the  imposing  snow-clad  Orand  Combin  (p.  235)  are  visible. 

After  a  steep  descent  of  1  hr.,  Reset  or  Resy  is  reached;  at  the  first 
chalet  (scanty  refreshments)  a  mule  may  be  hired.  The  path  to  Le  Breuil 
traverses  the  Col  des  Cimes  Blanches.  At  St.  Jacques^  or  S.  Oiacomo  d^Ayas., 
half-way  between  the  Furca  di  Betta  and  the  Col  des  Cimes  Blanches,  at 
the  upper  end  of  the.  Ayas  Valley,  there  is  a  clean  *Inn.  By  the  same 
route  the  Matterjoch ,  or  Th^odule  Pass  (p.  268),  may  also  be  attained 
without  passing  through  Le  Breuil ;  this  path  is,  however,  more  dangerous 
than  that  from  Le  Breuil  on  account  of  the  crevasses  of  the  glacier.  The 
path  from  Besel  descends  and  ascends  for  1  hr.,  skirting  the  glaciers  of 
Ayas  and  Aventina,  and  avoiding  the  ravines  of  the  glacier-brooks  and 
the  huge  fragments  of  granite  by  various  circuits,  and  finally  ascends 
rapidly  to  the  chalets  of  Aventina^  where  the  dire6t  path  to  the  Matterjoch 
diverges  to  the  r.  The  path  to  Le  Breuil  mounts  in  1  hr.  to  the  Col  des 
Oimea  Blanches  (9879'),  whence  the  mountains  of  Val  Toumanche  and  the 
entire  Alpine  chain  from  Mont  Blanc  to  Aosta  are  visible.    A  small  lake 


384     RouU  96.         LAKfi  OF  LUGANO. 

lies  to  the  1. ;  far  and  wide  the  scene  is  one  of  utter  desolation.  After 
descending  from  the  Col,  the  path  to  the  r.  must  be  selected,  by  which  in 
2i|2  hrs.  (to  the  1.,  also  2^\i  hrs.,  to  the  church  of  Val  Toumanche,  p.  268) 
Le  Breuil  (p.  268)  is  reached.  (The  passage  of  the  Hatterjoch  is  considered 
less  fatiguing  from  Le  Breuil  than  from  Zermatt  on  the  TH.  side.  Distances 
from  the  Hotel  du  Mont  Cerrin  near  Le  Breuil :  to  the  S.  base  of  the  glacier 
iifz  hr.,  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  1  hr.,   to   the  K.  base  of  the   glacier 

1  hr.,  to  Zermatt  SMz  hrs.,  altogether  6  hrs.,  two  of  which  are  occupied  in 
crossing  the  glacier,  comp.  p.  !%6.) 

These  three  passes,  the  Col  di  Valdobbia,  the  Furca  di  Betta,  and  the 
Col  des  Cimes  Blanches,  are  also  practicable  for  mules.  Guide  from  Riva 
to  Gressoney  (5>J2  hrs.)  10  fr.,  including  fee,  from  Gressoney  to  Le  Breuil 
(ll'l^hrs.)  10  fr.,  with  provisions  (which  must  be  taken  from  Gressoney), 
and  fee.  Mule  from  Resel  to  the  summit  of  the  Col  des  Cimes  Blanches  8  fr. 
Guide  from  Le  Breuil  to  Zermatt  15  fr. .  including  fee.  This  route  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  and  imposing  of  Alpine  excursions,  and  far  surpasses 
the  Tour  du  Mont  Blanc  (comp.  p.  227). 

96.   From  Luino  on  Lago  Maggiore  to  Menaggio 
on  the  Lake  of  Como.     Lake  of  Lngano. 

Comp.  Mapy  p.  374. 

Diligence  from  Luino  to  Lugano  in  2^14  hrs.  (coup^  3  fr.   60,  interior 

2  fr.  90  c.)  \  two-horse  car^.  80,  one-horse  10 — 12  fr. ;  retum-carr.  occasionally 
met  with  at  Luino  at  a  moderate  charge.  Steamboat  from  Lugano  to 
Porlezza  (twice  daily),  on  Tuesdays  3  trips,  fare  2i|«  or  1  fr. ;  tickets  may  be 
procured  on  board  the  steamboats  for  the  Omnibus^  with  which  it  generally 
corresponds  (2^\t  fr.,  coupe  3  fr.),  and  for  one-horse  (6  fr.)  and  two-horse 
(12  fr.)  carr.  from  Porlezza  to  Menaggio  (in  2 hrs.,  distance 9 M.).  Complaints 
are  frequently  made  with  regard  to  the  vetturini  of  Porlezza  and  Menaggio. 
Rowing-boat  from  Lugano  to  Porlezza  with  one  rower  7,  with  two 
12,  with  three  16^(2  fr.  —  Steamboats  on  Lago  Maggiore,  see  p.  374,  on  the 
Lake  of  Como,  see  p.  385. 

A  good  road  leads  from  Luino  (p.  376)  to  Lugano,  ascending 
immediately  behind  Luino,  and  commanding  a  fine  retrospective 
view  of  Lago  Maggiore.  The  Italian  and  Swiss  frontier  is  reached 
on  the  hill,  at  (3  M.)  Fomaeey  or  Fomasettej  the  seat  of  the 
Italian  and  Swiss  custom-houses. 

The  road  now  descends;  in  the  background  to  the  E.  rises 
the  Monte  8.  Salvatore,  with  the  chapel  on  the  S.  peak  (p.  372). 
The  river  Tresa  is  then  approached  and  skirted  as  far  as  (4^2  M.) 
Fonte  Tresa,  situated  on  a  bay  of  the  Lake  of  Lugano,  and  so 
enclosed  by  mountains  as  apparently  to  form  a  separate  lake. 
A  bridge  over  the  Tresa  (which  the  road  does  not  cross)  here 
connects  the  Swiss  with  the  Italian  bank.  The  Tresa ,  the  outlet 
of  the  Lake  of  Lugano ,  falls  isto  Lago  Maggiore,  ^/^  M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  Luino. 

The  road  leads  by  the  N.W.  bank  of  this  arm  of  the  Lake 
of  Lugano  to  (I72  ^0  MagUcMO^  with  an  ancient  castle  of  the 
Reroldingen  family,  and  (l*/2  M.)  Agno  (SCSQ,  crossing  the  river 
of  that  name;  it  then  gradually  ascends  (to  the  1.  the  small  iMke 
of  Mnzzano^  an  eminence,  at  the  £.  base  of  which  (3  M.)  Lugano 
(p.  370)  is  situated. 

The  *Lake  of  Lugano  (889^),  Ital.  Lago  Ceresio,  presents  a 


PORLEZZA.  96.  Route.     385 

succession  of  the  most  beautiful  landscapes,  and  is  a  worthy  rival 
of  its  more  celebrated  and  imposing  neighbours,  the  Lake  of  Conio 
and  Lago  Maggiore.  In  the  vicinity  of  Lugano  the  banks  are 
picturesquely  studded  with  villas  and  chapels,  and  planted  with 
the  vine,  fig,  olive,  and  walnut.  The  W.  side  of  the  S.  arm  also 
presents  several  delightful  points  of  view  (p.  369).  On  the 
N.  bank  (1.)  Caatagnola,  r.  (S.)  the  'cantine'  (p.  37'2)  of  Monte 
Caprino;  1.,  charmingly  situated  at  the'base  of  Monte  Brh  (p.  372), 
Qandria,  with  its  hanging  gardens  (on  lofty  arcades)  and  vine- 
terraces.  Beyond  this  point  the  lake  assumes  a  wilder  character. 
The  next  villages  are  (1.)  BelLarma  (frontier),  Oria  with  the  Villa 
Bianci,  Albogasio ,  8.  Mametlo  at  the  influx  of  the  Soldo.  On 
the  r.  the  bank  is  wooded  and  rises  abruptly  from  the  water. 
To  the  1.  Loggio,   Creaogno,  and  Cima^  opposite   which  (S.)  lies 

Stat.   Osteno  (Inn  on  the  lake). 

The  interesting  ^Grotto  of  Osteno  may  easily  be  visited  from  Lugano 
by  the  steamboat  bound  for  Porlezza  (or  by  small  boat).  The  grotto  is 
7  min.  from  the  landing-place :  go  through  the  village ,  and  outside  the 
gate  turn  to  the  r.  immediately  before  the  stone  bridge,  and  then  croFs 
the  brook.  The  mouth  of  the  gorge,  in  which  there  are  two  small  water- 
falls ,  is  near  a  projecting  rock.  Visitors  embark  in  a  small  boat  and 
enter  the  grotto,  the  bottom  of  which  is  entirely  occupied  by  the  brooV . 
The  narrow  ravine  through  which  the  boat  now  threads  its  way  is  curiously 
hollowed  out  by  the  action  of  the  water.  Far  above,  the  roof  is  formed 
by  overhanging  busheji,  between  which  an  occasional  glimpse  of  blue  sky 
is  obtained.  The  gorge  which  is  terminated  by  a  waterfall  resembles  that 
of  PfafTers,  and  is  equally  imposing,  although  shorter. 

The  N.  bank  of  the  lake  now  becomes  rocky  and  precipitous. 
At  the  N.  end  of  this  £.  bay  lies  Porlezza  (^Inn^  on  the  lake), 
seat  of  the  Italian  custom-house,  possessing  a  harbour.  Bowing- 
boat  to  Lugano  10 — 12  fr.   Steamboat  and  omnibus,  see  above. 

A  good  road  leads  from  Porlezza  to  Menaggio  (carr.  see  p.  384). 
The  walk  (3  hrs.)  from  the  Lake  of  Lugano  to  the  Lake  of  Conic 
affords  an  uninterrupted  series  of  beautiful  views,  terminated  by 
a  magnificent  prospect  from  the  highest  point,  near  Croce,  of  the 
greater  portion  of  the  Lake  of  Como.  Near  Croce^  2^4  M.  before 
Menaggio  is  reached,  a  footpath  leads  to  the  r.  direct  to  Qriante 
and  Cadenabbia  (p.  388).  From  the  carriage  -  road  to  Menaggio 
(p.  387)  the  Villa  Vigoni  (p.  388)  near  Loveno  may  be  con- 
veniently visited. 

97.     The  Lake  of  Como. 

Btaamboat  five  times  daily  from  Colico  to  Como  in  d'fs  hrs.  -,  to  Lecco 
3  times  weekly.  Fares  from  Colico  to  Como  4fr.  or  2  fr.  10  c.  (restaurant 
on  board  indifferent).  Stations :  Colico^  Domaso^  Oravedona^  Dongo^  Cremia^ 
DerviOy  Rezzonico^  BellanOy  Varenria,  Menaggio  (pier),  Bellaggio  (pier),  Cade- 
nabbia (pier),  Tretnezzo^  Lenno,  Campo^  Argegno^  Nesso^  Torngia,  Palanzo 
e  Poguana.,  Carate^  Tomo^  Afoltraxio,  Canobbio,  Como.  Embnrcation  ar.d 
landing  included  in  the  fare  (the  tickets  have  a  coupon  which  is  given  to 
the  boatman).  Between  Cadenabbia^  or  Menaggio^  and  Bellaggio^  the  steam- 
boat is  the  cheapest  conveyance,   especially  for  a  single  traveller.    Those 

Badbkkr,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition.  25 


386     BtmU  97.  LAKE  OF  GOMO. 

who  embark  at  intermediate  statioiu  between  Como  and  Ck>lico  must  procure 
a  ticket  at  the  pier  \  otherwise  they  are  liable  to  be  charged  for  the  whole 
distance  from  Como  or  Colico.  —  The  new  Saloon- Steamers  of  the  ^Societa 
Italiana'  are  preferable  (no  correspondence  with  the  railway  i  travellers 
Irom  Milan  intending  to  make  use  of  them  should  therefore  take  tickets 
only  to  Camerlata). 

Boats  (barea).  First  hour  with  one  rower  li|s,  with  two  3  fr.,  three 
41)3  fr.,  for  each  additional  hour  1  fr.  per  rower.  From  Bellaggio  to 
Cadenabbia  and  back  3  fr.,  with  two  rowers  4  fr. ;  Bellaggio  to  Menag^o 
and  back  4  fr. ;  Bellaggio  to  Varenna  and  back  4  fr.  \  Bellaggio  to  VUla 
Heizi,  Villa  Garlotta,  and  back  with  two  rowers  8  fr.  \  Bellaggio  to  Villa 
Oiulia  and  back  4  fr.  One  rower  generally  suffices,  unless  the  traveller''s 
time  be  limited.  If  a  second  be  anxious  to  join  the  party,  he  may  be  got 
rid  of  by  the  words  *basta  uno"  (one  is  enough).  Better  terms  than  the 
above  may  be  made  when  customers  are  not  numerous.  In  making  a 
bargain  the  following  phrases  will  be  found  useful:  ^Q^anto  volete  per  una 
eor»a  (fun  ora  (di  due  ore)?  Siamo  due  (tre^  quattro)  persone.  E  troppoy 
vi  daro  un  franco  (due  franchiy^  etc.  —  The  boatmen  generally  expect  a 
gratuity  of  i|s — 1  fr.  in  proportion  to  the  length  of  the  trip,  in  addition 
to  their  fare. 

The  *Lake  of  Como  (699';  greatest  depth  1929'),  Ital.  Logo 

di  Como,  or  II  Lario,  the  Locus  Larius  of  the  Romans,  extolled 

by   Virgil   (Oeorg.  J  I.  159),    is   considered  by  many  to  be  the 

most  beautiful  lake  in  N.  Italy.    From  its  N.  extremity  to  Como 

it  is  30  M.  in  length.    At  Bellaggio  (p.  388)  it  divides  into  two 

arms,  the  Lake  of  Como,  properly  so  called,   and  that  of  Lteco. 

The  latter,    from  the   Punta  di  Bellaggio  to  Lecco ,    is  121/2  M. 

long.     The   lake   attains   its   greatest   width,    2^/4  M.,    between 

Menaggio  and  Varenna.     The  Adda,  by  which  the  lake  is  fed  at 

the  N.  extremity,  emerges  from  it  again  at  Lecco. 

Numerous  gay  villas  of  the  Milanese  aristocracy,  surrounded  by 
luxuriant  gardens  and  vineyards,  are  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the  lake. 
In  the  forests  above,  the  brilliant  green  of  the  chestnut  and  walnut  con- 
trasts strongly  with  the  greyish  tints  of  the  olive,  which  to  the  unaccustomed 
eye  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  willow.  The  mountains  rise  to  a 
height  of  7(XXy.  The  scenery  of  the  lake,  as  seen  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamboat,  faintly  resembles  that  of  the  Rhine,  though  on  a  far  grander 
scale,  the  banks  on  both  sides  being  perfectly  distinguishable  by  the  tra- 
veller. —  The  population  of  the  banks  of  the  lake  is  of  an  industrial 
character,  and  is  principally  employed  in  the  production  and  manufacture 
of  silk.  —  The  Lacue  Larius  derives  a  classic  interest  from  its  connection 
with  the  two  Plinies,  natives  of  Como,  the  elder  of  whom  prosecuted  his 
philosophical  researches  in  the  surrounding  district.  —  The  lake  is  well 
stocked  with  fish,  and  trout  of  20  lbs.  weight  are  occasionally  captured. 
The  ^AgonC  are  small,  but  palatable. 


Eastern  Bank. 
Colico  see  p.  363. 


Western  Bank. 

Domaso  (Inn) ,  delightfully 
situated,  possesses  several  hand- 
some villas,  especially  VMa  Cal- 
dcrara  and   Villa  Lasqiiez. 

Oravedona  (Albergo  del  Sasso), 
the  most  populous  village  on  the 
lake ,  picturesquely  situated  at 
the  entrance  of  a  gorge.  The 
handsome  villa  with  four  towers 


LAKE  OF  COMO. 


97.  RouU.     387 


Eastern  Bank, 


Dorio  and  Corenno,  pictures- 
quely situated,  with  a  ruined 
castle. 

Dervio,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Varrone,  at  the  foot  of  Monte 
Legnone  (8566')  (which  rises 
almost  perpendicularly  from  the 
lake),  and  its  prolongation,  Monte 
Legnoncino  (4951 Q. 

Bellano  (Roma),  with  extensive 
iron-works,  at  the  foot  of  Monte 
Grigna  (7254'),  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Piovema.  This  valley 
extends  inland  towards  Lecco, 
and  is  noted  for  its   ironworks. 

Gittana ,  landing  -  place  for 
the  hydropathic  establishment 
of  RegoledOy  situated  500'  above 
the  lake.  Pension  5  fr. ,  2  fr. 
additional  for  baths,  etc.  Donkey 
from  Gittana  to  Regoledo  1  fr., 
horse  or  litter  2  fr. 

Varenna  (*Albergo  Reale)^ 
prettily  situated  on  a  tongue  of 
land  projecting  into  the  lake, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  occasionally 
impetuous  Esino,  which  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge.  In  the  vicinity, 
especially  towards  the  N.,  are 
some  remarkable  galleries  hewn 
in  the  rock  for  the  passage  of 
the  road  (p.  344).  The  marble 
procured  from  the  neighbouring 
quarries  is  polished  and  worked 
in  the  town.  Admirable  view 
from  the  ruined  castle  of  Torre 
di  Vezio,  situated  high  above 
the  town. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
town  the  Fiume  Latte,  or  milk- 
stream  (so  named  from  its  white 
colour)  precipitates  itself  in  se- 
veral   leaps    from    a    height    of 


Western  Bank, 
at  the  upper  extremity  was  built 
by  Cardinal  Gallio  of  Milan,  and 
is  now  the  property  of  a  private 
individual.  The  Church,  dating 
from  the  13th  cent. ,  contains 
two  Christian  inscriptions  of  the 
5th  cent. 

Dongoj  with  a  Dominican 
monastery,  a  large  village  in  a 
sheltered  situation,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  valley  of  the  same  name. 
On  the  height  above  Dongo  lies 
GarzenOy  whence  a  neglected 
path  leads  over  the  Passo  del 
lorio  to  (10  hrs.)  Bellinzona. 

On  a  precipitous  rock  above 
Musso  are  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  that  name,  the  former  pro- 
prietor of  which,  after  the  battle 
of  Pavia  (1525),  founded  a  prin- 
cipality here  embracing  the  entire 
Lake  of  Como.  On  an  eminence 
stands  a  white  chapel ;  farther  up 
is  a  marble  quarry,  approached 
by  a  zigzag  path  hewn  in  the 
rock. 

Pianello  and  Cremia^  with 
an  ancient  church  and  a  large 
silk-mill.  In  the  gorge  above 
it  there  is  a  picturesque  water- 
fall. 

Rezxonico  (Raetionieum)^  with 
the  picturesque  ruins  of  a  for- 
tress of  the  13th  cent.  Next 
8.  Abbondio. 

A  dangerous  footpath  crosses 
the  wild  precipice  of  II  Sasso 
Rancio  ('the  orange  rock'),  tra- 
versed by  the  Russians  under 
Bellegarde  in  1799 ,  on  which 
occasion  many  lives  were  lost. 

At  Menaggio  (* Grand  Hdtel 
Victoria,  R.  3,  B.  11/2*  ^'  ^^ 
L.  and  A.  IY2  ^r. ;  Corona) , 
whence  a  road  leads  to  Porlezza 
on  the  Lake  of  Lugano  (p.  385), 

25* 


388     Route  97. 


LAKE  OF  GOMO. 


Eastern  Bank. 
1000  ft.     The  volume  of  water 
is  very  impoing  between  March 
and  May. 


Western  Bank, 
there  is  an  extensive  silk  manu- 
factory   to    which    visitors    are 
readily  admitted. 

About  V2  ^^'  to  ^^^  ^-  of 
Menaggio ,  near  the  church  of 
Loveno  (*Inn),.  stands  the  ViUa 
Vigoni  f*view),  formerly  the 
property  of  Herr  Mylius ,  of 
Frankfort  (d.  1854),  a  liberal 
patron  of  art,  and  the  benefactor 
of  the  entire  neighbourhood,  as 
the  monuments  to  his  memory 
testify.  The  villa  contains  some 
admirable  modem  Italian  works 
in  marble,  reliefs  by  Thorvald- 
sen  (Nemesis ,  in  the  temple 
erected  by  Herr  Mylius  to  his 
son's  memory)  and  Marchesi ;  in 
the  garden -saloon  a  *group  by 
Argenti ,  the  proprietress  with 
her  children. 

To  the  S.  of  Menaggio.  close 
to  the  lake,  stands  the  new  and 
palatial   ViUa  Mylius. 

Here  the  lake  divides:  the  S.W.  arm  is  properly  named  the 
Lake  of  Como^  the  S.E.  the  Lake  of  Leeeo:  these  two  arms 
are  separated  by  the  Punta  di  Bellaggio. 


Lake  of  Como. 


Bellaggio  (708')  ('(' Grande 
BRETAQNB,with  the  d^pendance  Villa 
Sekbelloni  ;  ^Genazziki,  R.  from  2, 
B.  i%  L.  and  A.  1,  D.  4i|2  fr. ;  both 
beautifully  situated  on  the  lake,  pen- 
sion according  to  bargain  6 — 10  fr. 
per  day.  Gsand  Hotel  Bellaooio 
(formerly  Villa  Frizzoni,  see  below). 
Hotel  et  Pension  Suisse  ;  Hotel  de 
Florence,  moderate,  pension  5  fr.  — 
Boatsy  see  p.  386),  at  the  W.  base 
of  the  promontory  which  sepa- 
rates the  two  arms  of  the  lake, 
perhaps  the  most  delightful  point 
on  any  of  the  lakes  of  Upper 
Italy.  To  the  1.  of  the  steamboat- 
pier  is  situated  the  ViUa  Frizxoni 
(now  a  hdtel,  see  above). 


Cadenabbia  (ch  de  navia,  ship- 
house)  (*Bellevde,  R.  3,  B.  i>jj, 
D.  4>j2,  L.  1,  A.  1,  pension  6 — 7  fr. ; 
*Belle  Ile,  moderate;  Villb  de 
Milan,  formerly  Pension  Ma^jolica, 
5  fr.),  halfway  between  Como 
and  Colico.  A  short  distance 
S.  W.  of  the  village,  in  a  garden 
sloping  down  to  the  lake,  stands 
the  celebrated  ^illa  Garlotta 
(or  Sommariva,  after  the  count 
of  that  name  to  whom  it  origi- 
nally belonged).  It  was  pur- 
chased by  the  Princess  Albert 
of  Prussia  in  1843,  and  named 
after  her  daughter  Charlotte 
(d.  1855).    It  is  now  the  prop- 


LAKE  OF  COMO. 


97.  Route.     389 


Eastern  Bank. 
About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
village  is  the  *  Villa  Melzi, 
erected  in  1802  for  Count  Melzi 
d'ErUe ,  -vice  -  president  of  the 
Italian  Republic  under  Buona- 
parte and  afterwards  Duke  of 
Lodi.  It  now  belongs  to  the 
Duca  di  Melzi,  grandson  of  the 
founder,  and  is  not  less  attrac- 
tive than  the  Yilla  Oarlotta  on 
the  opposite  bank  (attendant 
1  fr. ,  more  for  a  party). 

Ante  -  Ghambeb.  Copies  of  anti- 
que busts,  by  Canova;  bust  of  the  pre- 
sent proprietor,  by  Vela;  son  of  the 
Duca  Melzi ,  a  statue  by  Pessina ; 
David,  by  Fraccaroli;  Innocence,  by 
Pandianiy  etc.  The  walls  of»  the  fol- 
lowing rooms  are  adorned  with  appro- 
priate frescoes.  In  the  2nd  Room  a  bust 
of  Michael  Angelo  by  Canova.  3rd  B. 
Bust  of  Michael  Angelo  by  himself^ 
Bernardino  Luini^  Madonna.  4th  R. 
ConioUi,  Eugene  Beauharnais,  viceroy 
of  Italy;  Appiani,  Napoleon  I.  as 
president  of  the  Italian  republic. 
0th  R.  Ceiling-frescoes  by  Bossi^  re- 
presenting Parnassus ;  statuettes  by 
Marchesi;  chimney-piece  by  Thor- 
valdsen,  with  medallion  portraits  of 
celebrated  Italians.  6th  R.  (Flower 
Room) :  Canova,  Bacchante,  etc. 

The  *Gakden  (attendant  1J2  fr.) 
is  luxuriantly  stocked  with  magnolias, 
cedars,  Chinese  pines,  gigantic  aloes, 
etc.  —  The  Chapel  contains  family 
monuments  in  marble.  —  In  another 
part  of  the  garden,  Dante  and  Beatrice, 
by  Comolli ;  colossal  busts  of  Madame 
Letitia,  mother  of  Napoleon  I. ,  and 
the  Empress  Josephine,  by  Canova. 

On  the  height  above  Bellaggio 
stands  the  ^Villa  Serbelloni  (now 
a  Hotel  and  Pension ,  see  p.  388). 
The  *view  from  the  park,  which 
extends  to  the  extremity  of  the 
wooded  promontory ,  embraces 
the  lake  in  both  directions ,  as 
well  as  the  Lake  of  Lecco  (see 
p.  391).  This  is  perhaps  the 
finest  vie  won  the  lake.  Charm- 
ing glimpses  of  Varenna,  Villa 
Balbianello,  Corlotta,  etc.   Beau- 


Western  Bank, 
erty  of  the  Duke  of  Sachsen- 
Meiningen,  widower  of  the  lat- 
ter. Visitors  ring  at  the  entrance 
to  the  garden  and  ascend  the 
steps,  where  they  are  received 
by  the  attendant  (1  fr. ,  more 
for  a  party). 

The  Ma&ble  Saloon  possesses  a 
frieze  adorned  with  celebrated  **re- 
liefs  by  Thorvaldsen,  representing  the 
Triumph  of  Alexander  (for  which  the 
Count  of  Sommariva  paid  a  sum 
equivalent  to  15,000 1,  sterling) ;  it  also 
contains  several  statues :  *Cupid  and 
Psyche,  Magdalene,  Palamedes,  Venus, 
all  by  Canova;  Mars  and  Venus,  by 
Acquisti;  Cupid  offering  water  to 
doves,  by  Bienaimi,  etc.  The  Billiard- 
Room  contains  casts,  and  a  chimney- 
piece  with  sculptured  frieze,  repre- 
senting a  bacchanalian  procession, 
said  to  be  one  of  Thorvaldsen''$  early 
works.  In  the  Gabden-Saloon  are 
several  modern  pictures :  Romeo  and 
Juliet  by  Eager;  Atala  by  Sordon; 
Virgil  reading  the  ^neid  to  Au- 
gustus, by  Wicar;  also  a  marble  re- 
lief by  Lazzarini,  of  Xapoleon  as 
consul,  presented  to  the  Count  of 
Sommariva  by  Napoleon  himself.  — 
Garden  (attendant  ija  fr.)  less  richly 
stocked  than  those  of  the  villas  Melzi 
and  Serbelloni,  but  worthy  of  a  visit. 
Fine  view  of  Bellaggio. 

Behind  the  'Milan'  hotel  rises 
a  rock,  II  Sasso  8.  Martino, 
half-way  up  which  stands  a  small 
church.  Madonna  di  8.  Martino, 
commanding  a  beautiful  view; 
ascent  IY2  hr. ;  a  cool  spring 
near  it.  —  The  Monte  Croeione, 
a  more  lofty  mountain  to  the 
W. ,  commands  a  striking  view 
of  the  Monte  Rosa  chain,  the 
Bernese  Alps  and  Mont  Blanc, 
the  lakes  and  the  plain  of  Lom- 
bardy  (a  fatiguing  ascent  of 
6 — 7  hrs. ;  guide  5  fr. ;  in 
order  to  avoid  the  heat  the  tra- 
veller should  start  at  2  or  3 
a.  m.). 

Tremezzo  (*Albergo    Bazzoni, 


390     RotUe  97. 


LAKE  OF  COMO. 


Eastern  Bank, 
tiful  grouds  near  the  hotel  and 
a  small  palm-grove  (admission 
1/2  fr.).  —  The  Villa  Btlmonte 
(admission  Y2  ^'0  ^^^^  commands 
a  fine  view.  —  A  little  to  the 
S.  of  this,  in-  the  direction  of 
the  Lake  of  Lecco,  is  the  Villa 
Oinlia,  the  property  of  Count 
Blome ,  with  heautiful  flowers, 
and  an  admirable  view  over  the 
Lake  of  Lecco.  —  The  Monte  8. 
Prima  may  be  ascended  from 
Bellaggio  in  4  hrs.,  see  p.  893. 

The  Villa  Poldi  (the  family 
name  of  the  Gonzagas)  con- 
tains the  mausoleum  of  the  last 
of  the  Gonzagas.  Fine  view 
from  the  round  Romanesque 
tower. 

S.  Oiovanni  with  the  Villa 
Trotti. 

Villa  Besenna. 

Near  Lezzeno  Is  one  of  the 
deepest  parts  of  the  lake. 

Nesso  (Naxo8?)j  at  the  foot 
of  the  Piano  del  Tivano  (3803'), 
Nesso  Sopra  and  Nesso  Sotto; 
near  the  latter,  in  a  narrow 
gorge ,  is  a  waterfall  of  con- 
siderable height,  frequently  dry 
in  summer. 

Careno  and  Quarsano. 

Villa  Plinianoy  at  the  end  of 
the  bay,  at  the  entrance  of  a 
narrow  gorge ,  a  gloomy  square 
edifice,  erected  in  1570  by 
Count  Anguissola ,  one  of  the 
four  conspirators  who  assassinated 
Duke  Farnese  at  Piacenza, 
now  the  property  of  the  prin- 
ces of  Belgiojoso ,  whose  name 
figured  so  conspicuously  in  the 
disturbances  of  1848.  It  derives 
its  name  of  Pliniuna  from  a 
neighbouring  spring  which  daily 
changes  its  level ,    a  peculiarity 


Western  Ban  k. 
moderate)  is  almost  a  continua- 
tion   of   Cadenabbia.      Between 
the  two  places  stands  the  Yilla 
Carlotta.     The  surrounding  dis- 
trict, the  Tremezzina^  is  justly 
termed  the  garden  of  Lombardy. 
At  the  extremity  of  the  long 
promontory     of    Lavedo    stands 
the  handsome  Villa  BalbianeUOy 
with  its  colonnade,  the  property 
of  Count  Arcomati.     Lenno   is 
situated  in  the  bay.    To  the  S. 
of  the   promontory  lies  Campo, 
and  beyond  this  Sala ;  between 
these   two   lies  the  small  island 
of   8.    Qiovanniy    or   Comacina, 
which   in   the   middle  ages  was 
fortified,  and  is  often  mentioned 
in  history.    A  small  church  now 
stands  on  it. 


Argegno,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Intelvi   Valley. 

Brienno  J  abounding  in  lau- 
rels ;    next 

Torrigiaj  and  Villa  Qalbiati, 
completed  in  1855,  gaily  painted 
exterior.  The  lake  is  here  scarce- 
ly ^1^  M.  in  vridth. 

LagliOj  with  Villa  Oaggi,  now 
Antongina.  To  the  N.,  by  the 
lake,  is  a  lofty  Pyramid  with 
the  Inscription  ^Joseph  Frank\ 
and  a  medallion.  Frank  was  a 
professor  at  Pavia  (d.  1851), 
aild  grandson  of  the  celebrated 
physician  Peter  Frank  of  Vien- 
na ;  he  left  the  sum  of  25,000  fr. 
for  the  erection  of  this  monu- 
ment to  his  own  memory,  from 
which  it  may  be  inferred  he 
did  not  do  much  to  merit  the 
remembrance  of  posterity.  The 
green  and  red  villa  belongs  to 
Count  Colobiano. 


COMO. 


97.  RouU.     391 


Eastern  Bank, 
mentioned  by  Pliny.      Extracts 
from  his  works  (Epist.  IV.  30, 
Hist.  Nat.  II.  206)  are  inscribed 
on  the  walls  of  the  court. 

Tomo.  To  the  S.  of  Torno 
both  banks  of  the  lake  are  stud- 
ded with  villas. 

Villa  Tavema,  formerly  Fa- 
roni;  Villa  Pasta,  formerly  the 
property  of  the  celebrated  singer 
(d.  1865),  with  hot-house;  Villa 
Taglioni,  with  a  Swiss  cottage, 
formerly  the  property  of  the  fam- 
ous danseuse .  now  that  of  her 
son-in-law ,  the  Russian  Prince 
Trubetzkoy;  Villa  Napoli,  a  cas- 
tellated edifice. 


Western  Bank. 

Carate;  in  the  background 
the  MofiU  Bisbino  (43900- 

Moltrasio,  with  a  beautiful 
waterfall. 

Villa  Passalacqua,  with  its 
numerous  windows,  resembles  a 
manufactory. 

Villa  Pizzo.  Villa  cfEate  (now 
Hdtel  Reine  d'Angleterre),  for  a 
considerable  period  the  residence 
of  Queen  Caroline  (d.  1821), 
the  unfortunate  consort  of 
George  IV. ;  Villa  RcUmondiy  late 
Odescalchi^  the  most  extensive 
on  the  lake,  situated  at  Borgo 
Vico,  the  N.  W.  suburb  of  Gomo. 


The  Lake  of  Leooo. 

From  Bellaggio  to  Leeco,  and  vice  vers&,  steamboat  3  times 
weekly  (comp.  p.  386). 

The  banks  of  this  S.E.  arm  of  the  Lake  of  Como  cannot  vie  in  beauty 
with  those  of  its  W.  neighbour ;  the  steamboat  journey  is  nevertheless  a 
very  pleasant  one.  Lecco  is  charmingly  situated.  The  precipitous  and 
formerly  inaccessible  E.  bank  is  traversed  by  a  high-road,  in  many  places 
supported  by  masonry,  in  others  passing  through  tunnels  or  galleries. 

The  steamboat  rounds  the  Punta  di  Bellaggio;  on  the  height 
above  is  situated  the  garden  of  the  Villa  Sttbelloni,  and  adjoin- 
ing it  the  ViUa  Qiulia  and  the  village  of  Visgnola.  Then  Limonta, 
and  opp.  to  it  (1.)  Liema  and  Somico;  (r.)  Onno,  (1.)  OUio  and 
Mandello  on  a  flat  promontory.  On  the  opposite  bank  (r.)  lies 
the  small  town  of  Parh ,  separated  from  Malgrate  by  the  pro- 
montory of  8.  Dionigio.  Malgrate  Itself  lies  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Val  Madrera ,  through  which  the  road  to  Como  via  Erba 
leads  (p.  392).  The  lake  gradually  contracts  to  the  river  Adda, 
which  flows  out  of  it,  and  is  crossed  by  the  Ponte  Orande ,  a 
stone  bridge  with  ten  arches. 

Lecoo  (^AU)ergo  d' Italia;  *Croce  di  Malta;  Leone  d'Oro;  all 
very  Italian),  an  industrial  town  with  8000  inhab. ,  admirably 
described  in  Manzoni's  *I  Promessi  Sposi'.  Walks:  to  the  hill 
of  CaateUo;  to  the  pilgrimage-church  on  the  Monte  Baro  (view 
of  the  Brianza). 

Railway  from  Lecco  to  Bergamo  in  1^)4  hr. ;  stations  Ca/oln'o, 
CUano^  Mapellio,  Ponte  S.  PietrOy  and  Bergamo^  a  stat.  on  the  Verona-Milan 
line  (comp.  Baedeker''*  N.  Itaiy),  Milan,  see  p.  3d4. 


Como  (705')  (*HdTBL  VoLTA,  formerly  Angelo;  ^Italia,  B.  from  2, 
L.  s|4,  B.  11)2,  D.  3,  A.  1  fr. ,  both  at  the  harbour ;  Coboma,   outside  the 


392      RouU  97.  BRIANZA. 

Porta  Milanefte  ^  Ca/i  Cavour^  near  the  quay  \   *  Trattoria  di  Fratconi  Con- 
fatoHteri ,   at   the   end    of  the   street  leading   Mtraight  from    the   harbour ; 
Baths  in  the  lake  by   the  Giardino    PubhUco^   to   the  1.,   outside   the   pier), 
with   20,614  inhab. ,    birth-place   of  the  two  Plinles  and   of  the 
celebrated    electrician     and    philosopher    Volta    (his    Statue    by 
P.  Marchesi   on  a   very   lofty  pedestal,  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
town  near  the  harbour^,    is   situated   at  the  S.  extremity  of   the 
S.W.  arm  of  the  Lake  of  Como,  in  the  centre  of  an  amphitheatre 
of  mountains.     The  *Cathedral,    constructed  entirely   of  marble, 
commenced  in  1396,  C/ompleted  in  1521,  is  one  of  the  finest   in 
N.  Italy;  facade  covered  with  statuettes  and  reliefs.    The  interior 
is    disfigured   by   the   gaudily    painted    vaulting.      The   portal    is 
adorned   with  handsome    stained -glass  windows.     Adjoining   the 
church   is  the    Town  Hall   (Broletto) ,   completed   in   1215 ,    the 
walls   of  which  are  composed  of   a  singular  variety    of  stones  of 
different  colours.     The  Porta  del  Torre,  a  massive  five-storeyed 
structure,  is  also  worthy  of  note.     Large  silk  manufactories. 

The  station  of  the  Milan  railway  is  at  Camerlata,  see  p.  370. 
Omnibus  from  the  steamboat  to  the  station  in  35  min.  (^2  ^^O* 
Comp.  Baedeker's  N.   Italy. 

Diligence  from  Camerlata  (p.  370)  to  Varese  on  the  arrival  of  the  Milan 
trains  ;  also  on  the  arrival  of  the  first  train  to  Laveno  (p.  376)  on  Lago 
Maggiore  (corap.  Baedeker^s  N.  Italy)^  by  Varese  in  5  hrs. ;  omnibus  to 
Varese  in  the  afternoon  \  3i|2  fr.  is  the  fare  usually  demanded,  but  less  is 
often  taken.  From  the  Ccjrona  inn  an  omnibus  (2  fr.  10  c.)  runs  to  Capo- 
lago  (p.  369),  corresponding  with  the  steamboat  on  the  Lake  of  Lugano. 
Swiss  diligences  (number  of  passengers  not  limited)  twice  daily  from 
Camerlata  to  Lugano  (p.  370)  in  3i|a  hrs.  ,  Bellinzona  (p.  85)  in  7'J2  hra. 
(R.  91) ,  Luceifie  (over  the  St.  Gotthard ,  R.  22)  in  25'|2  hrs. ,  Coire  (over 
the  Bernardino,  R.  90)  in  24>|2  hrs. 

Walk  on  the  E.  Bank.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  lake  two  routes  lead 
from  Como  along  the  slope  of  the  mountain  \  the  lower  of  these  passes 
small  villages  and  numerous  villas;  the  upper,  after  a  walk  of  40  min., 
commands  a  superb  view  of  the  snow-mountains  to  the  W. ;  it  passes 
through  Capo-Vico^  Sopra-Villa^  Cazzanore  (all  belonging  to  the  parish  of 
Blevio)y  leaving  the  Villa  Pliniana  (p.  390)  far  below,  and  reaches  (3  hrs.) 
Riva  di  Palamo,  where  there  is  an  auberge  on  the  lake  \  thence  by  steam- 
boat, which  stops  opposite,  near  Carate.  The  walk  may  be  shortened  by 
descending  to  (2^2  hrs.)  Torno,  a  steamboat-station  (p.  391). 

From  Como  to  Erha  and  B  ellaggio,  very  pleasant  for 
pedestrians,  and  especially  recommended  for  the  *retum -journey  to 
those  who  have  not  quitted  the  steamboat  on  their  route  to  Como.  The 
traveller  follows  the  road  to  Lecco,  leaving  Como  by  the  Porta  Milanese. 
The  road  gradually  ascends  the  £.  slope.  The  view  of  Como  is  intercepted 
by  the  beautifully  wooded  Monte  S.  Manrizio;  to  the  S.  the  country  is 
overlooked  in  the  direction  of  Milan ;  on  the  E.  lies  the  Briaasa ,  an 
undulating  and  extremely  fertile  tract,  12  M.  long,  6  M.  wide,  situated  be- 
tween the  Lambro  and  the  Adda ,  and  stretching  N.E.  to  Lecco.  This  is 
termed  the 'Garden  ofLombardy',  and  is  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Milanese, 
with  whose  villas  it  is  profusely  sprinkled.  The  church  of  the  village  of 
Camnagoy  N.  of  the  road ,  contains  Volta's  tomb  (see  above).  Farther  on, 
to  the  S.  of  the  road  near  a  small  lake,  is  the  sharp  ridge  of  JU&ntor/ano. 
Near  Cassano  a  campanile  is  observed ,  which ,  like  the  celebrated  leaning 
tower  of  Pisa,  is  very  much  out  of  the  perpendicular.  Beyond  Albesio  the 
view  extends  over  the  valley  of  Erba  (Pian  d''£rba)  and  the  lakes  of  Al- 
serio^  Pusiano,  and  Annone ,  above  which  on  the  E.  rise  the  Comi  di 
Camo  (4512')  and  the  Besegone  di  Lecco  (6161'). 


MONZA.  98.  RouU.     393 

Near  (lOija  M.)  Erba  (1017')  (Inn) ,  a  small  town  in  a  very  fertile 
district,  are  several  villas  on  the  'Plan  d'Erba"*,  the  most  remarkable  of 
which  is  the  Villa  AmaliOy  on  the  N.W.  side,  with  a  charming  view  of 
the  Brianza.  Kear  IncinOy  with  its  lofty  Lombard  tower,  1(4  hr.  S.E.  of 
Erba,  stood  the  Licini/orum  of  the  Romans,  which  Pliny  mentions  with 
Bergamo  and  Como. 

Beyond  Erba  the  road  crosses  the  LambrOy  which  is  here  converted 
into  a  canal  and  conducted  into  the  Lugo  di  PuHano^  a  short  distance  to 
the  S.E.  Immediately  afterwards  the  road  to  Bellaggio  diverges  to  the  1. 
from  the  Lecco  road,  and  passes  through  Longone^  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
narrow  Lago  del  Segrino.  Then  Canso  (*Croce  di  Malta  ^  the  first  house 
on  the  1. ;  an  agreeable  liqueur,  called  Fe«pe<ro,  is  manufactured  at  Canso), 
almost  contiguous  to  ^mo,  1i|4  H.  beyond.  At  the  entrance  of  Asso  is  a 
very  extensive  silk  manufactory  (Ccua  Versa). 

The  road  now  gradually  ascends  for  a  considerable  distance  in  the 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Lambro,  the  ValV  Aaina  (see  above),  the  slopes 
of  which  are  well  wooded  \  it  passes  through  several  villages ,  (2*J4  M.) 
Lasnigoy  (2>|4  M.)  Bami,  and  Magreglio  ^  where  the  ascent  becomes  more 
rapid ;  first  view  of  both  arms  of  the  Lake  of  Como  from  the  eminence 
near  the  (li|4  M.)  Chapel. 

Delightful  *survey  of  the  entire  W.  arm  to  Lecco  and  far  beyond,  from 
the  rear  of  the  first  church  of  (li|4  M.)  OiTeima,  with  its  graceful  tower. 
The  road  now  runs  for  2*14  M.  along  the  shady  summit  of  the  mountain  which 
extends  into  the  lake  at  Bellaggio  \  beyond  the  chapel  the  following  striking 
views  are  obtained :  the  W.  arm  of  the  lake  (of  Como) ,  the  Tremezzina 
with  the  Villa  Carlotta  and  Cadenabbia  (p.  388),  the  E.  arm  (Lake  of 
Lecco),  a  large  portion  of  the  road  along  the  E.  shore  resting  on  masonry 
and  embankments ,  the  entire  lake  from  the  promontory  of  Bellaggio  to 
Domaso  (p.  386),   and  the  rising  ground  with  the  Serbelloni  park  (p.  389). 

The  road  winds  downwards  for  about  3  M. ,  passing  the  Villa  Qiulia 
(p.  390)  on  the  r.,  and,  '{2  H.  from  Bellaggio,  the  churchyard  of  that  place. 
From  Civenna   to  the  hotels  at  Bellaggio  on  the  lake  (p.  388)  about  6  H. 

A  pleasant  circuit  may  be  made  by  ascending  the  Monte  S.  Primo  (5586') 
from  Canzo  (in  4 — ^5hrs.,  with  guide),  and  descending  thence  to  Bellaggio 
in  2*|2  hrs.    Magnificent  prospect  from  the  summit. 


98.     From  Como  to  Milan. 

Railway  (from  Camerlata)  in  1^(4  hr.,  fares  5  fr.  45,  4  fr.,  2  fr.  85  c. 

The  station  for  Como  is  at  Camerlata  (p.  369),  2  M.  from 
the  quay  (omnibus  in  35  min.,  fare  ^2  fr-)- 

The  line  at  flrst  traverses  picturesque  valleys,  and  intersects 
a  plain  in  which  maize,  mulberry-trees,  and  vines  are  extensively 
cultivated.  Stations:  Cucciago,  Camnago,  Sereyno,  and  Desio. 
The  hilly  upland  to  the  1.  is  the  fertile  Brianza  (p.  392)  with 
its  numerous  villas;  the  long,  indented  mountain  is  Jlfonte  £e8«4/cme. 

Konza  (^Palazzo  Reale;  Falcone;  ^Albergo  del  CasteUo)  has 
a  pop.  of  15,587.  The  Cathedral^  founded  in  595  by  a  Lombard 
queen,  contains  the  ^Jron  Crown  (said  to  have  been  formed  of 
a  nail  of  the  true  Cross ,  and  richly  adorned  with  gold  and 
jewels)  of  the  Lombard  kings ,  which  was  carried  off  by  the 
Austrians  in  1859,  but  restored  after  the  peace  of  1866.  The 
present  edifice  dates  from  the  14th  cent.  The  treasury  (fee  1  fr.) 
contains  numerous  valuable  relics.  The  Broletto,  or  Town  Hall, 
which  dates  from  the  13th  cent.,  is  said  to  have  formed  a  portion 


394     Route  9S.  BnLAN.  Cathedral. 

of  the  palace  of  Frederick  I.  and  the  Lombard  kings.  The  park 
of  the  ^Summer  Palace'  at  Monza  is  picturesque  and  extensive. 

Stat.  SeatOy  then 

Xilmn.  The  station  lies  between  the  Porta  Nuova  and  the 
Porta   Veneiia.     Omnibus,  see  below. 

HotaLi.  *  HdxBL  db  la  Villb  (PI.  a),  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele, 
opposite  the  Church  of  S.  Carlo,  B.  3,  L.  1,  D.  4,  A.  1  fr.  *,  Hotel  Ca- 
voDK,  Place  Cavour;  *Okand  HStbl  Rotal  (PI.  b),  similar  charges; 
«HdTEL  Rbichmamn  (PI.  c),  R.  2i|«,  B.  lijz,  D.  4,  L.  and  A.  1>J4  fr. ;  *Oram 
Bbbtaoma  (PI.  d)  •,  *  HdTBL  DB  Milan  ,  Corsia  del  Oiardino ,  R.  2i)t ,  A. 
1  fr. ;  *  Hotel  db  l'Ecrope  and  *  Roma  ,  both  in  the  Corso  Vitt.  Sma- 
nuele.  —  S.  Marco,  *Bblla  Venezia  (Piazza  S.  Fedele),  *Anoora,  Pozzo, 
may  be  mentioned  as  good  2nd  cl.  houses.    Pension  Suisse,  commercial. 

Bastaunuits,  ete.  *Cavay  with  garden,  by  the  Scala,  good  music; 
*  Trattoria  delta  Bona^  Via  8.  (Huseppe ;  *IM>eeeMnOy  not  far  from  the  cathe- 
dral \  I$ola  Bella,  by  the  triumphal  arch,  outside  the  town.  —  Cqfe  Merlo 
(good  bee),  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele ;  *Biffi  and  *Onocehiy  both  in  the  <3alleria 
Vitt.  Emanuele ;  Birraria  Nationale,  opp.  the  cathedral. 

liaerea  CBroughanW)  1  fr.  per  drive,  by  day  or  night;  per  1/2  hr.  1, 
per  hr.  li|2  fr. ;  each  article  of  luggage  25  c. 

OmnibntM  from  the  cathedral  to  the  station  (25  c.)  and  the  different 
gates  (10  c. ,  at  night  15  c.) ,  with  the  names  of  which  they  are  inscribed. 
Hotel  omnibuses  75  c.  or  1  fr. 

Diligenoes  (Impresa  Mertario,  Via  di  S.  Dalmazio,  No.  2,  near  the 
Scala)  to  Coire  over  the  SplUgen  once  daily  in  25  hrs.  (RR.  88,  87) ,  over 
the  Bernardino  once  daily  in  26i|2  hrs.  (RR.  90,  87) ;  to  Liteeme  twice  daily 
in  271(2  hrs.  over  the  St.  Gotthard  (R.  22) ;  to  Sion  once  daily  in  39  hrs. 
over  the  Simplon  (R.  61). 

Post  Offioe  (Pl.  68)  near  the  cathedral.  Via  Rastrelli  4919  ,  open  from 
8  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m.  —  Telegraph  Offtoe ,  near  the  Exchange ,  Piazza  dei 
Mercanti  (PI.  69). 

Theatres.  *Teatro  delta  Seata  (PI.  62),  a  spacious  building,  well  fitted 
up  (the  largest  in  Italy  next  to  the  theatre  of  S.  Carlo  at  Naples).  Opera 
and  ballet  admirable ;  performances  in  autumn  and  winter  only.  Cannobbiana 
(PI.  63),  open  during  the  Carnival  only.  S.  Radegonda  (PI.  66) ,  operas. 
Caredno  (PI.  64),  chiefly  operas;  Teatro\Reale  (PI.  65),  similar.  Fattati 
and  Cinitelliy  popular  theatres,  in  the  Piazza  d^Armi. 

Engliah  Ohnrch  Service.  —  Engl,  physician,  Dr.  Walker,  20  Via  della 
Passerella,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele. 

Milan  (for  a  fuller  description  see  Baedeker  s  N.  Jtaly^,  the 
capital  of  Lombardy,  and  one  of  the  wealthiest  manufacturing 
(principally  silk)  cities  in  Italy,  is  upwards  of  9  M.  in  circum- 
ference, and  has  a  pop.  of  214,517,  excl.  of  the  garrison. 

The  **Cath6dral  (PI.  19),  one  of  the  largest  churches  in 
Europe,  decorated  on  the  exterior  with  106  Gothic  turrets  and 
4500  marble  statues,  was  commenced  in  1386  by  Enrico  Gamodia, 
but  remained  in  an  unfinished  state  till  its  completion  by  Na- 
poleon I. 

The  Interior,  with  its  double  aisles  borne  by  52  pillars ,  and  the  sub- 
dued light  shed  by  its  stained  windows,  is  very  impressive.  In  the  S. 
transept  a  *Monument  to  OUuomo  and  Oabrtele  Medici ,  by  Leoni ,  erected 
in  1564  by  Pope  Pius  IV.  to  the  memory  of  his  brothers.  *  Stained  Olau 
windows  in  the  choir.  The  ancient  sarcophagus  of  porphyry,  which  once 
contained  the  body  of  St.  Dionysius ,  now  serves  as  a  Font.  The  sub- 
terranean Cappella  8.  Carlo  contains  the  tomb  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo, 
accessible  in  summer  5—10,  in  winter  7 — 10  a.  m.  \  at  other  times  for  a 
fee  of  1  fr. 


I 


Breta.  MILAN.  98.  RouU.     395 

The  ascent  (in  the  comer  of  the  r.  transept)  of  the  *  Roof  and  Tower 
(ticket  20  c.)  is  recommended,  as  the  visitor  is  thus  enabled  to  inspect 
the  architecture  of  the  exterior  more  closely;  a  noble  prospect  of  the 
Alps  and  Apennines  is  also  obtained  in  the  early  morning. 

The  *Oalleria  Vittorio  Emanaele  (PI.  40),  a  handsome  arcade, 
containing  a  succession  of  brilliant  shops,  and  decorated  with 
statues  of  24  celebrated  Italians,  connects  the  Piazza  del  Duomo 
with  the  Scala. 

In  the  Piazza  della  Scala  rises  a  Statue  of  Leonardo  da  Vinei 
(d.  1519)  by  Magnl,  inaugurated  in  Sept.,  1872.  The  great 
master  is  surrounded  by  his  pupils  Gesare  da  Sesto,  Marcx) 
d'Oggionno,   Salaino,  and  Beltrafflo. 

Of  the  remaining  80  churches  of  Milan ,  the  following  are 
the  most  interesting.  *8.  Ambrogio  (PI.  7),  founded  by  St. 
Ambrose  in  the  4th  cent.,  erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  contains  an 
^Ecce  homo'  by  Luini,  and  several  ancient  monuments.  *S.  Maria 
delle  Chrasie  (PI.  22)  dates  from  the  15th  cent.  The  refectory 
oft  he  monastery  contains  Leonardo  da  Vinci's  celebrated  **Fre8co 
of  the  Last  Supper ,  now  almost  obliterated.  In  the  church, 
pictures  by  Ferrari^  Luini^  etc.  *8.  Lorenzo  (PI.  18)  once  formed 
a  portion  of  an  ancient  Roman  palace;  the  isolated  ^Colonnade 
is  supported  by  16  Corinthian  pillars.  Qood  music  on  Sunday 
mornings. 

The  *Brera  (PI.  50;  open  daily  9—3,  Sund.  12—3  o'clock) 
formerly  the  Jesuits*  College,  contains  the  Library  of  the  Aca- 
demy (170,000  vols.,  1000  MSS.),  CasU  from  the  antique  and 
a  *  Picture  Gallery. 

Entrance-Rooms  I.  and  11.  Frescoes  by  Luini^  Ferrari.^  Bramantino^ 
and  Marco  cTOggionno;  the  finest  by  Luini  ^  angels  (13,  43,  47,  52,  66), 
scenery  from  the  life  of  Mary  (4().  41,  *e7),  and  *46.  The  Virgin  with 
St.  Antony  and  St.  Barbara ;   then  24.  Adoration  of  the  Magi,   bv  Ferrari. 

—  Room  I.   75.   Txtian^  St.  Jerome;  81.  Van  Dpek^   Madonna;  91.  Rubens^ 
Last  Supper;  96.  Pari*  Bordone^  Baptism  of  Christ;  115.   Tintoretto,  Pietli. 

—  Room  II.  (to  the  1.)  120.  Giae.  Franeia,  Madonna;  124  —  126.  Paolo 
Veronese ,  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  129.  Moretto,  Madonna  in  clouds  and 
three  saints ;  134.  Palma  Veechio,  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  144.  Paolo  Vero- 
nese, Saints.  —  Room  III.  155.  Oent.  Bellini,  Preaching  of  St.  Mark ;  171. 
Mantegna,  Saints ;  187.  Paolo  Veronese,  Christ  in  the  house  of  the  Phari- 
see. —  Room  IV.  213.  Correggio,  Madonna;  223.  Oiov.  Bellini,  Pietk; 
237.  ViU.  Carpaecio,  St.  Stephen ;  245.  Breughel,  Genre  picture.  —  Room  V. 
unimportant.  —  Room  VI.  290.  Cima  da  Conegliano,  John  the  Baptist, 
SS.  Peter  and  Paul ;  299.  Franc.  Albani,  Dance  of  Cupids ;  316.  Oaro/alo, 
Madonna;  315.  Giov.  Bellini,  Madonna  (1516).  —  Room  VII.  322.  Guereino, 
Abraham  and  Hagar ;  *329.  Velasquez,  Sleeping  monk ;  332.  Bern.  Luini, 
Madonna;  331.  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Study  for  the  head  of  Christ  in  the 
Last  Supper;  ^^337.  RaphaeVs  far-famed  'Sposalizio'  (Marriage  of  the  Vir- 
gin). —  Room  VIII.  358.  Guido  Reni,  SS.  Peter  and  Paul ;  346.  Franc.  Franda, 
Annunciation;  353.  Mantegna,  Body  of  Christ,  a  drawing,  under  glass.  — 
Room  IX.  366.  Boni/asio,  Moses  and  Pharo''s  daughter;  384.  Sassoferrato, 
Madonna  and  Child :  ^388.  Van  Dyek,  Portrait  of  a  lady.  —  Room  X.  398. 
Pieiro  da  Cortona,  Madonna  and  saints ;  466.  Salvator  Rosa,  Landscape 
and  hermits.  —  Room  XI.  451.  Marco  da  Oggionno,  St.  Michael  and  Lucifer; 
452.  Gaud.  Ferrari,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Catharine;  461.  Crespi,  Presentation 
in  the  Temple ;  494.  A.  Borgognone ,  Assumption.  —  Room  XII.  Modern^ 
pictures. 


396     Route  98.  MILAN. 

The   celebrated   ^BibUoteca   Ambroaiana  (PI    3"),  open  10 — 3 

o'clock   (fee  to   attendant   1   fr. ;    picture  gallery   1  fr.,  on  Wed. 

10 — 2*/2  o'clock  gratis),  founded  in  1525  by  Federigo  Borromeo, 

contains  60,000  vols,  and  15,000  MSS. 

^Codice  Atlantico",  i.  e.  the  original  drawings  and  autographs  of  Leon, 
da  Vinci ;  Virgil  with  marginal  notes  by  Petrarch  ^  letters  of  Cardinal  Bor- 
romeo,  Tasso,  Galilei,  etc.  —  Cartoons  of  Raphael,  Michael  Angelo,  etc. 

The  *08pedaU  Maggiore  (PI.  46),  commenced  in  1457,  is 
a  hospital  of  the  most  spacious  dimensions,  and  contains  9  dif- 
ferent courts.  —  The  CastellOy  once  the  residence  of  the  Vis- 
conti  and  Sforza  families,  is  now  employed  as  barracks.  On  the 
extensive  esplanade  (Piazza  d'Armi)  in  the  rear  af  the  building, 
is  situated  the  Arena,  a  species  of  circus,  with  accommodation 
for  30,000  pers.,  founded  by  Napoleon  I.  (fee  1  fr.). 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  Piazza  d'Armi  is  the  *Arco  della 
Face  (PI.  1),  a  triumphal  arch  of  marble,  founded  by  Napoleon 
in  1804  by  way  of  termination  to  the  Simplon-road ,  completed 
in  1838.  Recent  inscriptions  commemorate  the  emancipation  of 
Italy  through  the  instrumentality  of  Victor  Emmanuel  II.  and 
Napoleon  III.  The  numerous  reliefs  represent  the  successes  of 
the  Austrian  arms  against  Napoleon  I. 

The  Giardini  Pnbblici  (PI.  41)  afford  a  pleasant  promenade, 
much  frequented  on  Sunday  afternoons. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  new  Giardino  (at  the  Porta  Nuova) 
is  a  Statue  of  Cavour  in  bronze,  erected  in  1865.  Near  it  the 
Museo  CivicOy  containing  nat.  hist,  collections  (open  to  the  public 
on  Thursdays;  and  on  Tuesd.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.  11^3,  adm.  */2  ^r.). 


Index. 


Aa,  the  Engelberger  87. 

lai. 

—  Melch-  90.  91. 

—  Samer-  90. 

—  Steiner-  300. 

—  Waggithaler-  42. 
Aaberli  Alp  43. 
Aadorf  37. 

Aarau  15. 
Aarberg  163. 
Aarberger  Moos,  the  163. 
Aarburg  9. 
Aarburg,  castle  9. 
Aare,  the  8.  9.  10.  etc. 
Aareboden,  the  135. 
Aare  Glaciers,  the  135. 
Aarmiihle,  village  105. 
Aathal  43. 
Abbaye,  r  176. 
S.  Abbondio  on  the  lake 
of  Como  387. 

—  near  Lugano  372. 
Abendberg,  the  110. 
Abfrutt  79. 
Ablantschen  153. 
Acherbriicke,  the,   near 

Alpnach  90. 
Achselberg,  the  72. 
Achslenstock,  the  72. 
Achtelsaasbache,  the  130. 
Acletta  78.  306. 
Acqua,  hospice  air  140. 
Acqua  di  Stoll  364. 

—  Rossa  311. 

Adda,  the  343.  345.  363. 

etc. 
Adelboden  146. 
Adige,  the  348. 
Adlerberg,  the  352. 
Adler  Glacier,  the  264. 
Adler  Pass,  the  264. 
Adlischwyl  35. 
St.  Adnan  49. 
Adula,  Pis  366. 
Aela,  Piz  d^  317. 
Aelen  s.  Aigle. 
Aesch  6. 
—,  the  Aelpli  295. 


Aeschach  40. 
Aeschi  145. 
Aeugst  35. 

Aeugster  Berg,  the  34. 
Aeussere  Thurm,  the  264. 
Affoltem  34. 
Agagliouls  333. 
Agassizhom  the,  135. 
St.  Agata  376. 
Agno  384.   « 
Agone,  Val  342. 
Agums  349. 
Ahnengrat,  the  142. 
Aigle  199. 

Aiguille  Verte  219.  223. 
Aiguilles  Rouges  219. 223. 
Airolo  83. 
Aix-lesBains  206. 
Alagna  383. 
Albana,  Piz  323. 
Albbruck  19. 
Albens  206. 
Alberschwende  354. 
Albertville  210. 
Albesio  392. 
Albeuve  157. 
Albigna,  the  365. 
Albigna  Glacier  365. 
Albinen  149. 
Albione,  Piz  d'  259. 
Albis,  the  35. 
Albis  Hochwacht,  the  35. 
Albisbrunn,  bath  35. 
Albogasio  385. 
Albrunhom,  the  141. 
Albrun  Pass,  the  141. 
Albula,  the  318.  319. 
Albula  Pass,  the  319. 
Albulastock,    the   318. 

335. 
Aldez,  chalets  309. 
Aletsch  Glacier,  the  142. 
Aletschhom,  the  142. 
Alfensbach,  the  352. 
Algaby  258. 
—  gallery  258. 
Air  Acqua,  Hospice  140. 
Alia  Chiesa  144. 


All^e,  Alp  r  247. 
—  Blanche  230. 
Allalin  Glacier  263. 
Allalinhorn,  the  264. 
Allalin  Pass,  the  264. 
Allaman  174.  190. 
AUemandes,  les  206. 
Allensbach  21. 
Allenwinden  51. 
Alliaz,  Bains  de  V  194. 
Allieres  156. 
Allinges,  les  203. 
Allmann  Chain,  the  297. 
Almagel  265. 
AUnendhubel,  the  113. 
Allweg  90. 
Alogna,  Alp  368. 
Alpbach,  the,  near  Ein- 

siedeln  296. 

-  the,  ncarMeiringen  125. 
Alpetli  Glacier  147.  251. 
Alphubeljoch,  the  265. 
Alpiglen  Liicke,  the  79. 
Alpina,  Farm  328. 
Alplauch,  Refuge  138. 
Alpnach  90. 
Alpnach-Gestad  90. 
Alpnach,  Lake  of  90. 
Alpnoverstock  296. 
Al  Ponte  141. 
Alpstein  Chain,  the  279. 
Alpthal  58.  297. 
Alserio,  Lago  d'  392. 
Altels,  the  147.  251. 
Altenalp  281. 
Altendorf  42. 
Altenorenalp,  the  78. 
Alt-St.  Johann  290. 
Altmann,  the  2T7. 
Altmatt  300. 
Altnau  26. 
Altorf  76. 

Altstad,  islet  50.  70. 
Altstaffel  143. 
Altstatten  281. 
Altstetten  18.  34. 
Alun,  Piz  286. 
Alv,  Piz  341.  360. 


398 


INDEX. 


Alvaachein  368. 
Alyeneu  318. 

—  Bad  318. 
Alwind  40. 
Am  Lech  355. 

—  Plate,   Davo0,   or  St. 
Johann  316. 

,  Kloflten  314. 

—  Senk  258. 

—  Stein  132. 
AmaUa,  Villa  393. 
Ambri  84. 
Ambtihl  132. 
Amden  (Ammon)  45. 
Amdener  Berg,  the  45. 
Amertenhom,  the  151. 
AmphioD,  Bath  204. 
AmriBwyl  36. 
Amsoldingen  102. 
Amsteg  77. 

Andeer  359. 

Andelfingen  28. 

An  der  Egg  132. 

Andermatt  80. 

Andermatten  144. 

An  der  Schomer  300. 

Anet  163. 

Angenstein,  Castle  of  6. 

Angera  379. 

Anieres  203. 

St.  Anna,  Chapel,  in  the 

Schachenthal  296. 
— ,  near  Trons  307. 
— ,  castle  of  39. 
— ,  glacier  of  81. 
Annecy  211. 
— ,  Lac  d'  210. 
Annemasse  212. 
Anniviers,  Val  d'  246. 
Annone,  Lago  d**  392. 
Anterne,  Col  d'  220. 
Antigorio,  Val  144. 
St.   Anton',  on  the  Arl 

berg  362. 
Antongina,  Villa  390. 
St.   Antony,   chapel  277 
St.   Antonier  Joch,    the 

352. 
St.  Antonio,  near  Bormio 

346. 

—  in  the  Puschlav  343. 

—  Cantoniera  83. 
Antrona  Piano  260. 

—  Pass,  the  260. 

—  Valley,  the  260. 
Anza,  the  261. 
Anzasca  Valley,  the  261 
Anzeindaz  242. 

Aosta  239. 

Appenzell  278. 

— ,  >the  canton  275. 

—  Ausser-Bhoden  276. 


Appenzell  Inner-Rhoden 

Aprica,  Passo  d"  344. 
Arbedo  85.  368. 
Arben  Glacier,  the  248. 
Arbignon  149. 
Arbola,  CoUe  d'  141. 
— ,  Punta  A\  141. 
Arbon  26. 

ArbostorajMte.  372. 
Arc,  the  209. 
Ardete  337. 

Ardetzenberg,  the  353. 
Ardon  253. 
Arenenberg  22. 
Areue  Valley  366. 
Argegno  390. 
Argent,  Castle  of  233. 
Argenti^re  223. 
— ,  Glacier  d'  223. 
Argentine,  the  156.  242. 
Arlberg.  the  352. 
Arlesheun  6. 
Arly,  the  210. 
Armeno  380. 
Amex  175. 
Arola  381. 

Arolla,  Glacier  de  V  245. 
— ,  Pigno  de  r  246. 
— ,  Val  245. 
Arona  379. 
Arondine,  the  210. 
Arosa  317. 

Arpenaz,  Case,  d**  213. 
Arpiglia,  Piz  d'  336. 
Arpitetta,  Alp  248. 
Arth  49. 

Arve,  the  179.  227.  etc. 
Arveyes  156. 
Arveyron,  Source  of  the 

219. 
Arvier  233. 
Arvigo  368. 
Arzinol,  Pic  d'  245. 
Aschera,  Convent  320. 
— ,  Farm  337. 
Ascona  376. 
Assa,  Val  d'  340. 
Assina.  Valle  393. 
Asso  393. 

Astas  da  daint  339. 
—  da  dora  339. 
— ,  Piz  339. 
Attinghausen  76. 
Au,   in   the  Bregenzer 

Wald  354. 
— ,    Convent   near   Ein- 

siedeln  299. 
— ,  Fideriser  313. 
— ^jin   the  Rhine  Valley 

— ,  lake  of  Zttrich  41. 


Auberg,  the  Grosae  43. 
St.  Aubin  173. 
Aubonne  174.  190. 
— ,  the  174.  190. 
An  Devant  154. 
Audon,  see  Oldenhom. 
Audoz,  Cr^te  d'  187. 
Auengiiter  293. 
Auf  der  Burg  301. 

—  dem  Felsen  773. 

—  den  Flatten  273. 

—  der  Fluh,  caatle  143. 

—  der  Fruth  143. 

—  der  Hauer  268. 

—  der  Rive  262. 
Augio  368. 
Augst,  Basel-  1.  18. 
Augstbord  Pass,  the  250. 
Augstenberg,  the  337. 
Augstkummen  Matt ,  the 

271. 
Augstmatthom ,  the  111. 

127. 
Aul,  Piz  306. 
Ausserbinn  141. 
Auvemier  169.  171. 
Avant,  En  158. 
Avenches  164. 
Aven$on,  the  199.  242. 
Avent  243. 
Aventina  383. 

—  Glacier  273. 
Averser-Bhein,  the  360. 

—  Thai,  the  360. 
Avigna,  Val  339. 
Avise  233. 

Avizaille,  Cantine  231. 
Avril,  Mont  241. 
Avrona  338. 
Axenberg,  the,  or 
Axenfluh,  the  74. 
Axenstein  78. 
Axenstrasse,  the  74. 
Ay,  la  Tour  d*  156.  168. 
Ayas  274.  383. 

Ayent  162. 
Ayer  247. 

Ayeme,  Roc  d'  206. 
Ayutz,  Piz  337. 
Azi,  Mont  d'  206. 

Baar  48. 

Baarburg,  the  48. 
Baarer  Boden,  the  48. 
Bachalp,  the  121. 

-J  lake  of  121. 
Bachigat,  the  102. 
Bachimatt,  thtT  102. 
Bachistock,  the  302. 
Bachtel,  the  43. 
Bachtelen  99. 
Baden  in  the  Aargau  17. 


1 


INDEX. 


399 


Badermoos,  the  153. 
BaduSf  the  81. 
Bagne,  Val  de  240. 
Balbianello,  Villa  390. 
Baldenstein,  Castle  367. 
Bale  1. 
Balen  265. 
Balerna  370. 
Balferin,  the  256.  265. 
Ballaigues  176. 
Balliswyl  159. 
Balma,  la  229. 
Balme  213. 

—  Aig.  de  226. 

—  Col  de  226. 
Balmhom,  the  147. 
Balmaccia  382. 
Balmwald  77. 
Balmwand,  the  295. 
Bandlikon  41. 
Bannio  261. 
Bannwald,  the  76. 
Baradello,  Castello  370. 
Barata,  les  220. 
Barau  93. 

Barberine,  the  224. 
Bardonndche  209. 
Baregg,  the  119. 
Barenburg,  ruin  360. 
Baretto  Balma  314. 
Barlaschg,  Val  336. 
Barma,  la  201. 
Barmaz,  la  229. 

Barni  393. 

Baro,  Monte  391. 

Barr  Glacier,  the  250. 

Barrhorn,  the  250. 

Barschis  47. 

St.  Barth^lemy,    Chapel 

245. 
Bas-Chatillon  255. 
Basel  s.  Bale. 
Basel- Augst  1.  18. 
Baselgia,  Mt.  329. 
Basodino,  Piz  144.  374. 
Basset,  le  195. 
Batiaz,  La,  castle  201. 
Batie,  castle  209. 
Bauchlen,  the  96. 
Bauen  75. 

Baumgarten  Alp,  the  294. 
Baveno  260.  377. 
Bavona,  Val  374. 
Bayerbach,  the  45. 
Beatenberg  105.  110. 
Beatenhohle,  the  109. 
Beaufort,  Valine  de  210. 

230. 
Beaulmes,  Aig.  de  172. 
Beauregard,  castle  169. 
Becca  di  Nona,  the  240. 
Beckenried  71. 


Bees  de  Bosson,  the  246. 
Bedretto  140. 
— ,  Val  140. 
Beglingen  46. 
Bei  der  Briicke  314. 
Beichgrat,  the  142. 
Belfort,  ruin  318. 
Belgirate  378. 
Bellaggio  388. 
Bellalp,  the  142.  256. 
Bellaluna,  iron-w.  319. 
Bellano  387. 
Bellarma  385. 
Bellavisto  Pass ,  the  334. 
Bella  Tola,  the  249. 
Bellegarde  on  the  Rhone 

207. 

Bellenhochst  111. 
Bellenkilchen  111. 
Bellenz  85. 
Bellerive  on  the  Birs  6. 

—  on  the  lake  of  Geneva 
203. 

Bellevue,  Pavilion  de  228. 
Bellinzona  85. 
Belmistock,  the  77. 
Belmonte,  Villa  390. 
Bel  Oiseau,  the  224. 
Belotte  187. 
Belpberg.  the  100. 
Benken  44. 
Beonbach,  the  10. 
B^rard,  Valine  de  223. 
Bergamo  391. 
Bergelbach,  the  122. 
Bergell,  the  Valley  of  363. 
Bergerie,  la- 189. 
Berglistock,  the  309. 
Bergue,  la  187. 
Bergiin  319. 

Bergiiner  Stein,  the  319. 
Beringen  20. 
Berisal  257. 
Berlingen  22. 
Bern  94. 
St.   Bernard,    the  Great 

236. 

— ,  the  Little  233. 
— ,  chapel  243. 
8.  Bernardino  367. 

—  mount  366. 

—  river  377. 
Bemegg,  the  38. 
Bemetsmatt  78. 
Bemina,  the  330. 
— ,  hospice  341. 
— ,  houses  of  341. 
— ,  Pass,  the  342. 
— ,  Piz  330. 

Beminabach,  the  329. 332. 
Berthoud  13. 

Bescha,  Hunt  della  331. 


Beschluss,  the  286. 
Besenna,  Villa  390. 
Besso,  the  248. 
Besson  243. 
Betschwanden  293. 
Betta,  Furca  di  383. 
Bettelmatt  143. 
Bettenalp,  the  142. 
Bettfluh,  the  106. 
Bettlihom,  the  141. 
Beuggen  18. 
Beuli  Alp.  the  141. 
Bevaix  173. 
Beverin.  Piz  359. 
Bevers  334. 
— ,  valley  of  328. 
Bevieux  199. 
Bevilard  7. 
Bex  199. 

Bianca  Valley,  the  261. 
Bianci,  Villa  385. 
Bianco,  Pizzo  262. 
Biandrone,   Lago  di  380. 
Biasca  85. 
Biber,  the  296. 
Biberbruck  296. 
Biberegg  300. 
Biberen  163. 
Biberlikopf,  the  45. 
Bibem  21. 

Biberstein,  castle  16. 
Bideneck,  castle  351. 
Bied,  chateau  172. 
Bied,  the  169. 
Biel    in    the    Canton    of 
Bern  8. 

—  in  the  Valais  140. 
Bienne  8. 

— ,  the  Lake  of  10. 
Bies  Glacier,  the  267. 
Bietschhom,  the  255. 
Bifertenbach,  the  294. 
Biferten  Glacier  293. 

—  Stock,  the  293. 
Bignasco  144.  374. 
Billodes,  les  169. 
Binn  141. 

Binnenthal,  the  141. 
Bionaz  246. 
Bionnassay  228. 

—  Glacier  de  228. 
Bionnay  228. 
Birmensdorf  34. 
Bironico  368. 
Birrenhom,  the  146. 
Birs,  the  6.  7. 
Birseck,  castle  6. 
Bisbino,  Monte  391. 
Bisithal,  the  302. 
Bissone  369. 

Bivio  322. 

Bivio  di  Prad  348. 


400 


INDEX. 


Blackenstock,  the  88. 
St.  Blaise  11.  163.  171. 
Blatiire,  Aig.  de  218. 
Blanc,  Mont  221. 
Blanchard,  the  204. 
Blankenhurg ,    castle    of 

154. 
St.  Blasien  19. 
Blatten  92.  256.  268. 
Blatten,  castle  282. 
Blaue  Oletscher,  the  122. 
Blegno  Valley,  the  311. 
Bleicki,  the  lower  106. 
Bleisas  verdas  294. 
Blevio  392. 
Blinden,  or 
Blinnen  Thai,  the  140. 
Blitzingen  140. 
Blonay  near  Vevay  194. 

—  near  Evian  204. 
Bloye  206. 
Bludenz  352. 

Blue  Lake,  the  146. 
Blumalp,  the  87. 
Blumenstein,  bath  102. 
Blumlisalp,  the  147. 

—  Glacier,  the  147. 
Boccareccio ,    Passo    del 

141. 
Bocca  Bossa  141. 
Boccioletto  382. 
Boch,  Val  del  339. 
Bochard,  Aig.  du  218. 
Bockli,  the  77. 
Bocktschingel,  the  78. 
Bodeli,  the  106. 
Bodensee,  the  22. 
Bodio  84. 

Bodmer,  castle  283. 
Bodmialp,  the  110. 
Boege  1^. 
Boesio,  the  376. 
Bceuf,  Pas  du  249. 
Bofflens  175. 
Bohlegg,  the  110. 
Bois,  les  219.  223. 
Bois,  Glacier  de8  218. 223. 
Bokken  41. 
Boletto  381. 
Bolladore  345. 
Bolligen  98. 
Bollingen  44. 
Boltigen  153. 
Bon-Nant,  the  214.  228. 
Bonaduz  356. 
Bondasca,  the  364. 

—  Glacier,  the  364. 
Bonder-Krinden,  the  146. 
Bondo  364. 

— ,  Alp  333.  341. 
Bonhommc,  Col  de  230. 
Bonigen  105.  127. 


Bonnefemme,  la  290. 
Bonneville  213. 
Bona  187. 
Bonvillars  173. 
Bonstetten  34. 
Borca  262. 

Borgne,  the  244.  253. 
Borgnone  374. 
Borgo-Sesia  382. 

—  Vico  370.  391. 
Borgomanero  382. 
Borgonuovo  365. 
Bormio  345. 
Bomes,  Mont  des  211. 
Bomov  365. 

Borromean  Islands  377. 
Borterhorn,  the  249. 
Bosalgau.  Alp  110. 
Bosco     \4. 

— ,  Val  del  374. 
Bdsenstein,  the  HI. 
Bose  Seite,  the  134. 
Bosquet  de  Julie  195. 
Bosson,  Bees  de  246. 
Bossons,  glacier  des  214. 

216.  220. 
— ,  les  214. 
Botiggia,  Col  di  382. 
Bottarello,  Pizzo  di  260. 
Botzlingen  76. 
Bouc,  the  Trouma  de  241. 
Boudevillers  168. 
Boudry  172. 
Bougy  190. 
— ,  Signal  de  190. 
Bourdeaux  208. 
Bourg  St.  Maurice  233. 

—  St.  Pierre  235. 
Bourgeaud,  le  234. 
Bourget,  lac  du  207. 
Bourgillon  160. 
Boussine,  Tour  de  241. 
Bouveret  205. 

Boval  332.  334. 
Boveresse  170. 
Bovemier  234. 
Bozinger  Hohe  7. 
BraU  336. 

Bramberg,  the  159. 
Bramegg,  the  92. 
Bramois  244. 
Brand  352. 
Brand,  im  109. 
Brandlisegg,  the  110. 
Brandner-Ferner  352. 
Brassus,  le  175. 
Bratz  352. 
Braulio,  the  346. 
— ,  Mte.  346. 
Braunwaldberg,  the  293. 
Bravuogn  319. 
Bre  372. 


Brfe,  Monte  372. 
Bredaggio  311. 
Bregalga,  Val  360. 
Bregaglia,  Val  363. 
Bregenz  %4. 
Bregenzer  Ach,  the  354. 

—  Klause,  the  364. 

—  Wald,  the  354. 
Breil  268. 

Breitenboden,  Alp  122. 
Breithom,    the,    in    the 

Bernese  Alps  113. 
— ,  near  Zermatt  273. 
— ,  the  Lotschthaler  142. 

—  Glacier,  the  250. 
Breitlauenen  Alp  109. 
Brenet,  lac  176. 
Brenets,  les  169. 
Breney,  glac.  de  241. 
Birenlaire,  the  159. 
Brennet  19. 
Brehno,  the  64.  311. 
Brenva,  glac.  de  231. 
Breonna,Couronne  de245. 
Brestenberg  16. 
Breuil,  le  268. 

Bre  vent,  the  219. 
— ,  the  Col  du  220. 
Brezon,  the  213. 
Brianza,  the  392. 
Bricolla,  Alp  245. 
St.  Brida,  chapel  309. 
Brieg  256. 
Brienno  390. 

Brienz  in  the  canton   of 
Bern  126. 

—  in  Grisons  318. 
— ,  lake  of  127. 
Brienzer  Grat,  the  126. 
Brienzwyler  92.  126. 
Brigels  307. 

Brigelser  Horn,  the  356. 

Brindlistaffel  79. 

Brisi,  the  45. 

Brissago  376. 

Bristen  77. 

Bristenstock,  the  78. 

Broc  153. 

Brocard  234. 

BroUa,  Ponte  374. 

Brothausi  153. 

Broye,  the  162.  164. 

Bruck  16.  I 

Brugg  16.  1 

Brugg  8.  I 

Bruggen  37. 

Brullisau  278. 

Brulltobel,  the  280. 

Bruneckborn,  the  250.266. 

Brunig  92. 

Brunnen  73. 

— ,  the  Sieben  151. 


INDEX. 


401 


Brunni  56. 


Brunni  Pass,  the  78.  306.  Caille ,  la ,   chain  bridge 

■a s^\.^^       «K<>    'Tfi     9nU         OH 


Brunnithal,   the  78.  906. 
Bnis  or  Briisch  343. 
Bnuio  343. 
Brusson  383. 
Bubikon  43. 
Buchberg,    the,    in 
Rhine  valley  281. 

—  on  the  Linth-Canal  44. 
Buchenthal  37. 
Buchs  282. 
Buet,  the  221. 
Buffalorabach,  the  367. 
Buffalorapass,    the    336. 

345. 
Buhri32.  267. 
Biihlbach,  the  110. 
Biihlenstock,  the  138. 
Biihler  279. 
Buin,  Pie  314. 
Buiame,  the  227. 
Bulle  156. 
Bills,  Alp  47. 
Bumplitz  158. 
Bunderbach  146. 
Bunschi  153. 
Buochs  71. 
— ,  lake  of  71. 
Buochser  Horn,  the  87. 
Buonas  49. 
Buotsch,  Val  336. 
Burg  6. 
Burg,  the  121. 
Burgdorf  13. 
Burgeis  349. 
Biirgenberg    or    Biirgen- 

stock,  the  89. 
Burgfluh,  the  102. 
Burgistein  102. 
Biirglen  (Obwalden)  92. 
Biirglen  (Thurgau)  36. 

—  (Uri)  76. 
Burtigny  175. 
Burvein  322. 
Biisingen  21. 
Bussalp,  the  121. 
Buasigny  174. 
Busswyl  8. 
Bustigeln  118. 
Bu8to  Arsizio  379. 
Biitscheleck  99. 
Buttschwyl  290. 
Buttier,  the  239. 
Biittlaasen,  the.  or 
Biittlosa,  the  115. 
Biitzberg  9. 
Buzatacb  306. 


Cabbiolo  367. 
Cadempino  369. 
Cadenabbia  388. 

BjiDBKsa.   Switzerland 


Cadenazzo  373. 


211. 
Gaillet,  spring  217. 
Calanca,  Val  368. 
Calancasca,  the  368. 
Galanda,  the  283. 
the  Galasca  261. 

Calcaccia,  the. 83. 
Galde  376. 
— ,  Gastello  di  376. 
Galderara,  Villa  386. 
Calfreisen  317. 
Galolzio  391. 
Galmot,  the  309. 
Calvaggione,  Monte  369. 
Gama  3i68. 
Gamadra,  Val  307. 
Gamana  Alp,  the  305. 
Gambrena,  Piz  ?*  1. 

—  Glacier,  the  341. 

—  Pass,  the  334. 
Gamerlata  370.  393. 
Gamischolas  309. 
Gamnago  392.  393. 
Gamogasc  335. 
Gamoghe,  Monte  369. 
Gamona,  Alp  307. 
Gamonica,  Valle  344. 
Gampaccio,  Piz  342. 
Gamperio,  Hospice  311. 
Gampffer  327. 

—  Lake  of  327. 
Gampi,  ruined  castle  357. 
Gampiolli  262. 
Gampo  306.  374.  390. 

—  Gologno  343. 

—  Dolcino  362. 

—  Tencca  374. 
— ,  Val  del  374. 
— ,  Gomo  di  342. 
— ,  Valle  di  342. 
Gampolungo,  Alp  374. 
Gampovasto  335. 
Gampsut  360. 
Gamscha,  in  144. 
Ganaria  Valley,  the  83. 
Ganciana  Pass,  the  326. 
Ganfer,  Pian  322. 
Ganiciil  360. 
Ganities,  ruins  340. 
Gannero  376. 

—  Gaatelli  di  376. 
Gannobbino,  Val  376. 
Ganobbio  376. 
Ganova,  castle  357. 
Ganzo  393. 

— ,  the  Comi  di  392. 
Gapella  314.  335. 
Gapolago  869. 
Gapo-Vico  392. 
Gaprino,  Monte  372. 

6th  Edition. 


Gapiitscha,  la  326. 
Garasso,  Monte  373. 
Garate  391.  392. 
Garcoforo  382. 
Gardinell,  gorge  362. 
Gareno  390. 
S.  Garlo  342.  374. 
GarlottajVilla  388. 
Garona  372. 
Garouge  186.  211. 
Garrera  305. 
Casa  dei  Pagani  83. 
Gasaccia  (Val  Bregaglia) 

365. 
— ,  Hospice  on  the  Luk- 

manier  311. 
Gasanella,  Piz  335. 
Gasanna,  Piz  335. 
Gasanna,  Val  335. 
Gaaatsch  365. 
Gassano  392. 
Gassina  369. 
Gastagnola  385. 
Gastasegna  364. 
Gastel,  chateau  22. 
Gastelberg,  castle  306. 
Gastellatsch,  castle  360. 
Gastelmur,  ruin  365. 
Gastels  313. 
Gastiel  317. 
Gastione  85. 
Gastor,  the  272. 
S.  Gaterina,  bath  345. 
St.  Gatharinenthal  21. 
Gatogne,  Mont  162.  234. 
Gau,  Mont  196. 
Gavaglia  341. 
GavagUasco,  the  341. 
Gavergno  374. 
Gavloccio  Lake,  the  325. 
Gavradi,  Pi/  310. 
Gavreccia,  Val  322. 
Gazzanore  392. 
Gebbia  367. 
Gelerina  329. 
C^ligny  174. 
Genere,  Monte  368. 
Genis,  Mont  209. 
Gentovalli,  Valley  374. 
Gentrale,  Pizzo  82. 
Geppina  345. 
Geppo  Morelli  261. 
Geresio,  Lago  384. 
St.  Gergues  189. 
Gerlier  10. 
Gerniat  153. 
Gervin,  Mont  271. 
Gevedale,  Monte  350. 
Gevio  374. 
Ghablais,  the  203. 
Ghable  241. 
Ghailly  158.  195. 

26 


402 


INDEX. 


Ghaine,  la  170. 
Chaise,  the  210. 
Chalchang,  Piz  333. 
Ghallant,  Yal  de  274.  383. 
Cham  36. 
Chambave  268. 
Chambdry  206. 
Chamb^y  174. 
Chambrelien  167. 
Chamoifl,  Dent  de  154. 
Chamonix  214. 
Chamoflsaire,  the  156. 199. 
Chamouny  214. 
— ,  Valley  of  216. 
Chamousset  209. 
Champ  long  336. 

—  sech  336. 
Champatflch  339. 
Champel  228. 

— ,  the  186. 
Champery  206. 
Ghampey,  Lac  de  234. 
Champsec  241. 
Chancy  207. 
Chandolin  156.  247. 
Chan^laz  169. 
Chant  Suras  315. 
Chapeau,  the  218. 
Chapieux,  les,  or 
Chapiu  230. 
Chapiitschin    Pass ,    the 

GhapiitsGhin,  Piz  334. 
Ghardonnet,  Aig.  da  223. 
Charles-Albert,  Pont  211. 
Charlottenfels,  castle  28. 
Gharmey  153. 
Charmontel,  Mont  164. 
Charmoz,  Aig.  de218. 226. 
Chamex  s.  Chemez. 
Charreire,  D^fil^  de  235. 
Ghasseral,  the  10.  166. 
Chasseron,  the  172. 
Chaste  in  the  Oberhalb- 
stein  321. 

—  on  the  Lake  of  Sils 
326. 

Chat,  Mont  du  208. 
Chateau  Duing  211. 

—  Menthon  211. 

—  d'Oex  154. 

—  de  Pierre  212. 
Chatel  153. 

Chatel  St.  Denis  157. 
Ghatelard,  castle  194. 
— ,  le  224. 
— ,  tunnel  of  214. 
Chatelet  165. 
Ghatillon    in    the    Aosta 
valley  269. 

—  in   the  valley  of  the 
Arve  218. 


Ghatillon  on  the  Lac  dm 

Bourget  207. 
— ,  Bas-  255. 
Ghaudron,  Qorge  du  196. 
Chaulin  1%. 
Chaumont,  the  167. 
Chaux-de-Fonds,  La  168. 
—  du  Milieu,  La  169. 
Ghavanne  10. 
Ghavans  en  haut  225. 
Chavants,  les  214. 
Ghavomay  174. 
Chede  213. 
Ghegino  380. 
Cheires  172. 
Ghemin,  Mont  234. 
Chenaletta,  the  238. 
ChSne  212. 
Chdnens  161. 
Gh^ran,  the  206. 
Cherasca,  Val  141.  259. 
Ghermignon  149. 
Chermontane,  Grlacier  de 

241. 
— ,  chalets  de  241. 
— ,  col  de  241.  246. 
Ghemex  158.  195. 
Chesi^re  199. 
Chessalle  Eck,  the  153. 
Chessel  205. 
Chdtif,  MontT231. 
Ch^ville,  Col  de  242. 
— ,  Chalets  de  242. 
Gh^vres,  Pas  de  241.  '246. 
Chexbres  162.  163. 
— ,  Signal  de  163. 
Chiaclavuot  317. 
Chiampatsch,  Piz  330. 
Chiamuera,  Val  335. 
Chiamut  309. 
Ghiapo.sch  337. 
Chiasso  370. 
— ,  Ponte  370. 
Chiavenna  362. 
Chiesa  326. 
Chiesa,  alia  144. 
Chignin,  castle  209. 
Chillon,  castle  196. 
Ghilnaux,  castle  171. 
Chippis  247. 
Ghirel,  the  150. 
Ghougny  186. 
Chrinne  s.  Krinnen. 
Christannes  339. 
St.Christoph,IIospice352. 
Chunelta,  the  332. 
Chur  287. 

Churburg,  castle  349. 
Churfirsten,  the  45. 
Churwalden  320. 
Cia  des   Clians,    glacier 

des  240. 


Cierfs  336. 

Cigognier,  le  165. 

Gima  386. 

Gima    di  Jasi  273. 

Gimes  Blanches,  Col  des 

274.  383. 
Ginuschel  336. 
Giraun  359. 
Cisano  391. 
Givenna  393. 
Civiasco  382. 
Glarens  195. 

Clariden,  the  78.  294.  295. 
Claridengrat,  the  78. 
Glaridenstock,  the  78. 
Claro  85. 
Glavadel  316. 
Claven  and 
Clefen  s.  Chiavenna. 
Glemgia,  the  339. 
Cluse,  La,  near  Aosta  239. 
—  near  Pontarlier  171. 
Cluses  213. 
Goblenz  s.  Koblenz. 
Godelago,  lake  of  141. 
Gogne,  Val  de  233. 
Goire  287. 
Colico  363. 
Collonge  208. 
Collonges  207. 
Golma,  Col  di  3B2. 
Colobiano,  ViUa  390. 
Cologny  185.  203. 
S.  Golombano,  Piz  346. 
Colombey  205. 
Colombier  172. 
—,  the  207. 
Colon,  Col  de  246. 
— ,  Mont  245. 
Colonges  196. 
Coltura  366. 

Comabbio,  Lago  di  380. 
Comacina,  Isola  390. 
Combal,  Lake  of  231. 
Comballaz  154. 
Combe,  Fond  de  la  220. 
Gembels  306. 
Combin,  the  Grand  235. 
Gombloux  210. 
Como  391. 
— ,  Lake  of  385. 
Concise  173. 
Conilnale,  Monte  345. 
ConOans  210. 
Constance  28. 
— ,  Lake  of  22. 
Contamines,  les  229. 
Contamines  sur  Arve  212. 
Conters  322. 
Conto,  Monte  364. 
Gonthey  243.  258. 
Convers,  les  168. 


INDEX. 


403 


Conversion,  la  162. 
Goppet  189. 
Corbario,  Gastello  85. 
Gorbaasiere,  glac.  de  241. 
Gorcelles,  near  Neuchatel 

167.  169. 
— ,  near  Grandson  173. 
Gorenno  387. 
Gornauz  11. 

Gomera,  Passo  della  141. 
Gomier,  the  247. 
Gorno,  Val  143. 
Goroi,  Piz  307. 
Gorsier  193. 
Gortaillod  172. 
Gorte  374. 
Gorvatsch,  Piz  334. 
Gossonay  174. 
GosUinas,  Pass  339. 
Gote,  La  174.  189. 
Gotschen.  Piz  337. 
Gottens  161. 
Gourmayeur  231. 
Gonronne  de  Br^ona,  the 

245. 
Gourrendlin  6. 
Gourt  7. 
Gourtelary  10. 
Gouvercle,  the  218. 
Gouvet  170. 
Goux,  Gol  de  206. 
Gozzera  307. 
Gramont,  the  231. 
Gramosina,  the  84. 
Grap  Alv  319. 
Grap  Glarun  306. 

—  long  47. 
Grasta  mora  334. 
Gr^do,  Tunnel  du  207. 
Gremeo  367. 
Gremia  387. 
Gr^mine  7. 
Crempiolo  141. 
Gr^pin,  caseade  de  214. 
Gresciano  85. 
Cresogno  385. 
Greasier  11. 

Gresta  in  the  Avener  Thai 
360. 

—  in  the  Engadine  329. 
— ,  lake  305. 

—  Agiuza  334. 
Gresta  mora  319.  336. 
Grestalta  327. 
Gr^aus  153. 

Gret,  Col  du  241. 
CrSte,  La  244. 
Crete  s^che,  Col  de  241. 
Cretes,  les  195. 
Creux  du  Vent,  the  170. 
173. 

—  de  Champ,  the  155. 


Grevin  186. 
Grevola  259. 
— ,  Gallery  of  259. 
Cribiasca,  the  84. 
Grin  144. 
Crispalt,  the  309. 
Crispausa  309. 
Cristallina    Furca ,     the 

374. 
Cristallina,  Piz  311.  374. 
Cristallinenthal,  the  311. 
Gristallo,  Monte  347. 
S.  Groce  385. 
Groce,  Lago  della  341. 
Grocione,  Monte  389. 
Crodo  144. 
St«  Croix  172. 
Croix  de  fer,  the  226. 
Croix.  Pas  de  la  156. 
Grot  360. 
Croy  175. 

Croza  Alp.  the  262. 
Crusch  340. 
Cruschetta,  la  339. 
Cruseilles  211. 
Cubli,  Mont  196. 
Cucclago  393. 
Cudrefin  164.  171. 
Cuera  287. 
Cul-dea-Roches  169. 
Culet,  the  206. 
Cully  192.  198. 
Culoz  207. 
Curaglia  311. 
Curtins  326. 

Curver,  Piz  305.  357.  369. 
Guzzago  260. 

Dachli,  Oberes  63. 
— ,  TJn  teres  58. 
Dachsen  28. 
Dachsfelden  7. 
Daigra  307. 
Dailly,  case,  de  225. 
Dala,  the  149.  150. 
Dala  Glacier,  the  149. 
Dalaas  352. 
Palfazza  313. 
Dammaiirn,  the  79. 
Danikom  15. 
Dard,  cascade  du  220. 
Dardin  307. 
Darligen  105. 
Darvun,  the  309. 
Daube^  the  148. 
Daubenhom,  the  148. 
Daubensee,  the  148. 
Davos  315. 

—  am  Platz  316. 

—  -Dorfli  314.  316. 
Davoser  See,  the  314. 316. 

—  Landwasser,  the  314. 


Dazio  Grande  84. 
Deldmont  6. 
Delices,  lea  186. 
Delsberg  6. 

Dent  Blanche,  the  244. 
,  Col  de  la  276. 

—  de  Chamois  154. 

—  du  Midi  206. 
Dentro,  Val  di  342 
Derborence,   Lac  de  243. 
Derendingen  9. 
Derriere-Moulins  165. 
Dervio  387. 

Deaago  372. 
Desio  393. 
Devant,  Au  154. 
Devens  199. 
Devera,  Val  141. 
Devirs  Bridge,  the  80. 
Diablerets,  the  242.  243. 
Diablons,  the  250. 
Diavel,  Piz  del  320. 
Diavolezza,  la  333. 
Diavolo,  il  Ponte  del  345. 
Dichtelberg,  the  265. 
St.  Didier,  PnS  233. 
Dielsdorf  34. 
Diemtlgen  151. 
Dieni  S)9. 
Diesbach  293. 
Diessenhofen  21. 
Dietfurt  290. 
Dietikon  18. 
Digg  305. 

S.  Dionigio,  prom.  391. 
Dioza,  the  230. 
Dischma-Thal,  the  316. 
Disgrazia ,    Monte    della 

326.  334.  344. 
Diaiert  306. 
Disrut,  Pass  306. 
Disaentis  306. 
Distelalp,  the  263. 
Diveglia,  Alp  141. 
Diveria,  the  146.  258. 
Divonne,    Chalets  de  la 

190. 
Dix,  Val  dea  246. 
Dixense,  the  244. 
Dobbia,  Col  di  Val  383. 
Dogern  19. 
Doire,   the  231.  269. 
Doldenhorn,  the  147. 
Ddle,  the  190. 
Dolent,  Mont-  232. 
Dollfuaa,  Pavilion  135. 
Doltihorn,  the  136. 
Dom,  the  267.  271. 
Domaao  386. 
Domat  365. 

Domene,  bains  de  153. 
S.  Domenica  368. 

26* 


404 


INDEX. 


Dominikhohle,  the  56. 

Domleschg,  the  366. 

Domo  d'Ossola  259. 

Donat  359. 

Dongio  311. 

Dongo  387. 

Dora  Baltea,  the  231.  269. 

etc. 
Dorfli,  Davos-  316. 

—  Klosters  314. 
Dorio  387. 
Domach  6. 
Dornbirn  354. 
Domige  Briicke,  the  115. 
Doron,  the  210. 
Dosde,  Gorno  di  342. 

— ,  Pizzo  di  342. 
DoBsen,  the  62.  68. 
Dottingen  19. 
Douanne  10. 
Doubs,  the  7.  169.  171. 
— ,  Saut  du  169. 
Douvaine  203. 
Dranse,  the,  in  the  Cha- 
blais  204. 

—  in  the  Valais  202.  225. 
234. 

—  de  Valsorey  235. 
Drei     Schwestern ,     the 

282. 
Dreilanderstein,  the  297. 
Dru,  Aiguille  du  226. 
Drusberg,  the  30. 
Drusenthor,  the  312.  352. 
Duan,  Piz  365. 
Diibendorf  43. 
Dubenwald,  the  255. 
Ducan  Pass,  the  316. 
Ducan,  Piz  316. 
Diidingen  159. 
Dufour-Spitze ,    the  262. 

273. 
Duggia  Valley,  the  382. 
Duin,  Tour  de  200. 
Duing,  Chateau  211. 
Dundelsbach,  the  92. 
Diindengrat,  the  115. 
Dungel  Glacier  155. 
Durand ,   Glacier  de ,  in 

the  Val  AroUa  246. 
Durand,   Glacier,  in  the 

Val  de  Zinal  247. 
— ,  Col  de  248. 
Durezza,  la  339. 
Diirrenberg,  the  115. 
Djirrenboden,  the  316. 

Eau,  the  Grande- 156.  199. 

—  Morte,  the  210; 

—  Noire,  the  223. 
Eaux  Rouges,  Cantine  des 

233.  I 


Eaux  vives,  les  185. 
Ebenalp,  the  279. 
Ebenrain,  castle  of  ?. 
Ebi,  meadow  366. 
Ebikon  35. 
Ebligen  127. 
Ebnat  290. 
Ebnefluh,  the  113. 
Ebneton  Alp  139. 
Ebnit  155. 

Ecce-Homo-Chapel  300. 
Eck  127. 

— ,  the  rothe  110. 
Eckalp,  the  127. 
Ecl^pens  174.  176. 
Ecluse,  Fort  de  r  207. 
Ecoulayes,Glacier  des  241. 
Effretikon  36. 
Egeri  49. 
— ,  lake  of  300. 
Egg  297. 

Eggenalp,  the  274. 
Eggenschwand  147. 
Eggersried  276, 
Eggischhom,  the  141. 
Eginen,  Valley  of  143. 
Eginenbach,  the  143. 
Egnach  25. 
Ehrenfels  357. 
Eichbiihl  101. 
Eiger,  the  117. 
Eigerhohle,  the  119. 
Eigerjoch,  the  120. 
Einfischthal  s.  Val  d'An- 

niviers. 
Einshom,  the  360. 
Einsiedeln  297. 
Eisenfluh  112. 
Elend  68. 
Elgg  37. 
Elm  304. 
Emd  267. 
Emet,  Laeo  di  360. 

,  Alp  360. 
— ,  Val  360. 
Emilius  Mt.  240. 
Emmatten  71. 
Emme,  the  Grosse  9.  13. 

93. 

Emme,  the  Little  93. 
— ,  the  Wald-  93. 
— ,  the  Weisse  93. 
Emmenbriicke  15. 
Emmenmatt  93. 
Emmenthal,  the  93. 
Ems  366. 
Ensigen  Alp  56. 
Enderlin,  Villa  371. 
Engadine,  the  324. 
Enge,  near  Bern  99. 
Enge  in  the  Simmenthal 

163. 


Engelbere  87. 

— ,  the  300. 

Engelberger  Aa,   the  87. 

Engelhom,  the  124. 

Engen  20. 

Engi  303. 

Engstlenalp,  the  ISn. 

Engstlenbach,  the  130. 

Engstlensee,  the  130. 

Engstligenbach,   the  146. 

Ennenda  292. 

Ennetlinth  295. 

Entlebuch  93. 

— ,  the  93. 

Entlenbach,  the  93. 

Entova  Val  334. 

Entremont,  Val  d'  234. 

Entr^ves  231. 

Ependes  174. 

Eplatures  168. 

Erba  393. 

— ,  Piano  d^  892. 

Erdes  243. 

Ergolz,  the  8. 

Erguel,  Valley  of  7, 

Eriels  s.  Airolo. 

Erlach  10. 

Erlenbach    in    the    Sim- 
menthal 153. 

—  on  the  Lake  of  Ziiricb 
41. 

— ,  the  134. 

Erlinsbach  16. 

Ermatingen  22. 

Erstfeld  76. 

Erstfelder  Thai,  the  77. 

Ertschfeld  121. 

Erzingen  20. 

Eschenthal,  the  259. 

Eschenz  21. 

Escher- Canal,     the    44. 
291. 

Eschlikon  37. 

Escholsmatt  93. 

Esel,  the  55. 

Eselsriicken,  the  123. 

Esino  387. 

Bstavayer  171. 

Este,  Villa  d'  391. 

Etablon  Col  d'  253. 

Etivaz.  Vall^  d'  l&i. 

Etrambi^re,  castle  212. 

Etronbles  239. 

Etsch,  the  348. 

Ettenherg,  the  34. 

Etzel,  the  297. 

Etzlibach,  the  78. 

BtKlithal,  the  78.  306. 

Eugensberg  22. 

Eulach,  the  36. 

Euthal,  the  297. 

Eviaa  204. 


INDEX. 


405 


Evionnaz  201.  205. 

Evolens  245. 

Ewig  -  Schneehorn ,     the 

136. 
Excenevrex  203. 
Eyelenegg  49. 
Eyenalp,  the  264. 
Eysee,  lake  127. 
Ezel,  s.  Esel. 

Fahlen,  Lake  of  281. 
Fai'do  84. 
Fain,  Val  del  341. 
Falkenfluh,  the  106. 
Falknis,  the  283. 
Fallbach.  the  102. 
Fang  247. 

Fardiin,  ruined  castle  359. 
Fariolo  260.  3T7. 
Farnbiihl,  the  Baths  of  92. 
Faroni,  Villa  391. 
Fatschalv,  Pia  337. 
Fatschbach,  the  295. 
Faucigny,  castle  213. 
Faulberg,  the  135. 
Faulblatten,  the  88. 
Faulen.  the  301. 
Faulenbach,  the  77. 
Faulensee,  the  T7.  109. 
Faulhom,  the  120. 
Faverges  210. 
Fayel  213. 
Federia,  Val  335. 
Fedoz,  Vadret  da  326. 
— ,  Val  326. 
Fee  265. 

—  Glacier,  the  265. 
— ,  Monte  265. 
Feldbach  22. 
Feldkirch  353. 
Felikjoch,  the  274. 
Feli-Stutz,  the  271. 
Fellaria  Glacier,  the  333. 
Fellibach,  the  78. 
Felsberg  355. 
Felsenburg,  the  146. 
Felsenegg  49. 
Felsenthor,   the  (on  the 

Rigi)  64. 
Felt-Alp.  the  355. 
Felwen  36. 

FenStre,  Col  de  238.  241. 
— ,  Glac.  de  241. 
Fenis,  Castle  of  269. 
Fer-a-Oheval ,   Vallde  du 

220 
Ferden  250. 
Ferdinandshohe  347. 
Ferette  6. 

Fennel,  Valley  of  151. 
Fernex  186. 
Femigen  133. 


Ferpecle,  Glacier  de  245. 
Ferporta ,    ruined    castle 

312. 
Ferrera  360. 
— ,  Valley  of  360. 
Ferret,  Col  de  232. 
— ,  Valley  of  232. 
Ferro,  il  Sasso  del  376. 
Featigletscher,  the  267. 
Fettan  337. 
Feuerstein,  the  96. 
Feuerthalen  21. 
Feusisberg  297. 
Fex  326. 

Fex-Glacier,  the  326. 
— ,  Cima  da  333. 
— ,  Valley  of  326. 
Fibbia,  the  82. 
St.  Fiden  38. 
Fideris  313. 
•  ,  Baths  of  313. 
Fideriser  Au  313. 
Fier,  the  206.  211. 
Fiesch  141. 
Fiesso  84. 
Figino  372. 
Filisur  319. 
Fillar,  chalets  de  262. 
Fille-Dieu,  La,  nunnery. 

161. 
Filzbach  46. 
Findelenbach,  the  270. 
Findelen-Glacier,  the  264. 

274. 
Finge  254. 
Finhaut  225. 
Finster-Aar  Glacier  135. 
Finster-Aarhorn  135. 
Finstermiinz  350. 
— ,  Pass  of  350. 
— ,  Hoch-  350. 
Fionnay  241. 
Fischetz,  the  27. 
Fiach-See,  the  144. 
Fisistock,  the  146.  251. 
Fitznau  71. 
Fiume  Latte,  the  387. 
Flaine,  Lac  de  213. 
Flamatt  159. 
Flascherberg,  the  283. 
Flatzbacli,  the  329. 
Flawyl  37. 
Fl^gfere,  the  218. 
— ,  the  Croix  de  la  218 
Flem  305. 
— ,  Crap  da  305. 
Fless  Pass,  the  314. 
Fleas,  Val  314.  315. 
Fleurier  170. 
Flies  351. 
Flims  305. 
Flims-Pass,  the  304. 


Flirsch  352. 
Florentina,  tower  368. 
Floria,  Aig.  de  la  218. 
Florins  338. 
Fluchthorn,  the  337. 
Fluela-Pass,  the  315.' 
Fluelen  75. 

Fluh  Alp,  the  264.  274. 
— ,  auf  der,  castle  143. 
Fluhli  93. 
Flumet  210. 
Flums  47. 
Fluntem  29. 
Fobello  383. 
Folierant,  the  159. 
Foljeret-Alp  149. 
Folly,  le  232. 
Fond  de  la  Combe  220. 
Fonds,  Valine  des  220. 
— ,  Col  des  221. 
Font  172. 
Fontaine,  La  225. 

—  des  merveilles  206. 
Fontana  140.  338.  374. 
— ,  the  Alp  316. 

—  Chistaina  340. 
Foo-Pass,  the  304. 
Foppa  Pass,  the  286. 
Fopperhorn,  the  360. 
Foppiano  144. 
— ,  Defile  of  144. 
Foraz,  Piz339. 
Forcellina,  the  306. 
Forclaz,  mount,  and  pass 

near  St.  Gervais.  214. 
- ,    near   Martigny    224. 

-,  Val  d^Herens  245. 
Forcletta,  Pas  de  la  250. 
Forcola,  la  342. 
Formazza  Valley  144. 
Fornace  or 
Fornasette  384. 
Fomo  Alp,  the  141. 
Forno  Glacier,  the  325. 
Fomo  Pass,  the  336. 
Foroglio  374. 
Foron,  the  212. 
Foscagno  Pass  345. 
Fouilly,  le  214. 
Fours,  Col  des  230. 
Fraele,  Val  346. 
Fragstein,  ruin  312. 
Frakmund,  Alp  55. 
Franzenshohe  348. 
Frassen,  the  Hohe  353. 
Frastanz  353. 
Frau,  the  Weissc  147. 
Frauenfeld  36. 
Frauenkappelen  163. 
Frauenkirch  317. 
Frauenthor,  the  306. 


406 


INDEX. 


Freiberge,  the  dCQ. 
Freiburg  160. 
Fr^jua,  Col  de  209. 
Fremd-Vereina  314. 
Freni^re  242. 
Frenkendorf  8. 
Freschen,  the  Hohe  363. 
Fressinone,  the  ^. 
Frety  Mont  232. 
Freudenberg,  the  280. 
— ,  ruins  2^. 
Freudenfels,  ruin  21. 
Freundhom.  the  147. 
Fribourg  160. 
Friedberg  277. 
Friedrichshafen  23. 
Frienisberg  163. 
Frinvilliers  7. 
Frodolfo,  the  346. 
Frohburg,  the  9. 
Frolichaburg,   ruin  349. 
Frohnalp,  the  73. 
Frolichsegg  280. 
Frombach,  the  267. 
Fromberghom,  the  103. 
Frohnalpstock,  the  291. 
Frua,  Sulla  143. 
Fruitier,  Pavilion  du  231. 
Fnimgel,  the  45. 
Frutbach,  the  295. 
Frutberg,  the  295. 
Fruth,  anf  der  143. 
Frutigen  146. 
Fruthwald  144. 
Frutz,  the  363. 
Fuentes,  ruin  363. 
Fiihren  131. 
Fuldera  336. 
Fuorcletta,  the  336. 
Fuorn  336. 
Fuorns  311. 
Furca,  the  138. 
—  di  Betta,  the  383. 
— ,  the  Criner  144. 
Furcahom,  the  138. 
Furgge  s.  Furke. 
Furggenbach,  the  268. 
Furggen-Glacier,  the  260. 

268. 
Furgge-Valley ,   the  260. 

265. 
Furgglen  First,   the  277. 
Furke,  the  116. 
Furom  339. 
Fiirstenau,  castle  367. 
Furstenburg,  castle  349. 
Furth  306. 
Furva,  Val  346. 
Fuaio  374. 
— ,  Val  374. 
Fussach  281. 
FutBchol  Pass,  the  337. 


Chkbelhomer,  the  271. 
Oabris,  the  277. 
Gadmen  131.  273. 
Gadmenbach,  the  129. 131. 
Gadmenfluh,  the  130. 132. 
Gadmenthal,  the  131. 
Gaggi,  Villa  390. 
Gagikopf,  the  272. 
Gaifl  m 

Galbiati,  Villa  390. 
Galenhittten,  the  138. 
Galenstock,  the  138. 
Galgenen  42. 
St.  Gall  37. 
— ,  Hospice  311. 
Gallarate  379. 
Gallegione,  the  360. 
Galleria  del  Bagni,   the 

346. 
Gallinario,  Pis  807. 
Gallivaggio  362. 
Galmers  163. 
Galmhom,  the  149. 
Galthiir  337.  * 
Gamchi  Glacier,  the  115. 
Gamchiliicke,  the  147. 
Gammerrhein,  the  309. 
Gampel  260. 
Gampenhof,  the  348. 
Gamperton-Thal,  the  353. 
Gams  291. 
Gamsboden,  the  81. 
Gamsen,  the  256. 
Gandria  386. 
Ganter-bridge,  the  257. 
—  valley,  the  257. 
Garde,  la,  chapel  244. 
Garschenthal,  the  138. 
Gartenbach,  the  268. 
Garzeno  387. 
Gassenriedpass,  the  265. 
Gassenried  Glacier,    the 

265. 
Gaster,  the  46. 
Gastem  251. 

Gastern  Valley,  the  261. 
Gastemdorf  251. 
Gastemholz  261. 
Gatschiefer,  the  313. 
Gauli  Glacier,  the  133. 
Gauli-Pass,  the  133. 
G^ant,  Col  du  222. 
— ,  Aiguille  du  222.  232. 
— ,  Glacier  du  217. 
Gebhardsberg,  the  354. 
Geisholz  125. 
Geispfad-Pass,  the  141. 
Geisterspitze,  the  347. 
GeM,  Mont  241. 
Gellihorn,  the  146. 
Gelmerbach,  the  134. 
Gelmerhom,  the  134. 


Gelten-Glacier,  the  154. 

155. 
Gelterkinden  15. 
Gemmenalphom,  the  110. 
Gemmi,  the  148. 
Gemsbach,  the  124. 
Gemshom,  the  266. 
Gemshiigel,  the  116. 
Gemsmattli,  the  54. 
GenerosOflftonte  369. 
Geneva  177. 
— ,  Lake  of  188. 
Geneveys,  les  Hauts-  168. 

—  sur-Coffrane  168. 
Genf  177. 

Gentelalp,  the  129. 
Gentelbach.  the  129. 
Genthod  174. 
Genthod,   Pointe  de  188. 
St.  Georgen,  near  St.  Oall 

280. 
— ,  chapel,  in  the  Rhine 

Valley  286.  356. 
— ,  near  Wallenstadt  47. 
Georgenberg  307. 
St.  Georges  in   the  Jura 

176. 
Gepaatsch  Glacier  349. 
Gerenthal,  the  140. 
St.  Germain  233. 
Germignaga  376. 
Gersau  71. 
Gersthom,  the  137. 
Gerstni  Alp,  the  131. 
St.  Gertrud  348. 
St.  Gervais  214. 
— ,  Baths  of  213. 
Gerzensee  101. 
Geschenen  (Reuss  Valley) 

79. 

—  (Rhone  Valley)  140. 
Gesseney  154. 
Gessens,  Phare  de  206. 
Gestler  s.  Chasseral. 
Gessler's  Castle  50. 
G^troz,  Glacier  de  234. 

241. 

Ghiffii  376. 

Ghirone  307. 

S.  Giacomo  on  the  Ber- 
nardino 367. 

— ,  chapel  in  the  Val 
Bedretto  144. 

—  in  the  Liro  Valley  362. 

—  near  Sedrun  309. 

—  di  Fraele  346. 

—  d'Ayas  383. 

—  la  TrinitJi  378. 

—  Pass,  the  144. 

St.  Gian,  church  329. 
— ,  Piz  328. 
Gibel,  the  301. 


INDEX. 


407 


Gibloux,  the  161. 
Oiessbach,  the  128. 
Giflfre,  the  213.  221. 
Gignod  239. 
Gimmelwald  114. 
Ginevra  177. 
Gingins  190. 
St.  Gingolph  204. 
Ginistrella,  Monte  382. 
St.  Gioitf  Hospice  311. 
Gionnero,  Monte  369. 
Giop,  Alp  328. 
Giornico  84. 
8.  Gioyanni,  river  377. 
— ,   island  in  the   Lake 

of  Gomo  390. 
in  the   Lago  Mag- 

giore  377. 
Gislifluh,  the  16. 
Gislikon,    bridge  of  36. 
Giswyl  91. 
Gitschen,  the  75. 
Gittana  387. 
Gitte,  the  280. 
Giuf,  Val  309. 
Giulia,  Villa  390. 
Giulio,  the  323. 
8.  Giulio,  Island  381. 
Giumaglia  374. 
Giumella  Pass  368. 
Giumels,  the  319. 
Giursan  337. 
S.  Giuseppe,  Caatoniera 

83. 
Gland  174. 
Glane,  the  161. 
Glaris  8.  Glarus. 

—  in  the  Davos  317. 
Glarisegg  21. 
Glarnisch,  the  302. 
— ,  the  Vorder-  292. 
Glarus  292. 

^,  the  Canton  of  291. 
Glatt,  the  36,  43. 
Gleckstein,  the  120.  123. 
Glenner,  the  306. 
Gletscheralp,  the,  on  the 

Monte  Fee  265. 
Gletscherhom ,   the   115. 

151. 
Gletschhom,  the  138. 
Glims,  Alp  336. 
Glion  in  the  Grisons  305. 

—  in  the  Vaud  196. 
Glis  256. 

Glishorn,  the  257. 
Gloggeren,  the  280. 
Gliina,  Piz  338. 
Gluringen  140. 
Glurns  349. 
Gnepfstein,  the  54. 
Gobetta,  Gima  di  346. 


Goldach,  the  38. 

Goldau  57. 

Goldei,  the  108. 

Goldswyl  109.  127. 

— ,  the  Lake  of  109.  127. 

Gol^e ,  Col  de  206.  221. 

Golzem  78. 

— ,  the  Lake  of  78. 

Golzem- Alps,  the  78. 

Gomagoi  348. 

Gondo  259. 

Gonten,  Baths  in  Appen 

zell  278. 
on  the  Lake  of  Thun 

104. 

Gorbs-Baeh,  the  286. 
Gorgier  173. 
Gorner  Glacier,  the  272. 

274. 

—  Grat,  the  271. 
Gornerhom,  the  262.  273. 
Goschenen  79. 

—  Reuss,  the  79. 

—  Thai,  the  79. 
Alp,  the  79. 

Gosgen,  Castle  of  15. 

Gossau  37. 

8.  Gottardo,  Sasso  di  82. 

Gotteron,  Pont  de  160. 

— ,  Valine  de  160. 

Gottfrey  252. 

St.  Gotthard,  the  82. 

— ,  Pass  of  82. 

— ,  Hospice  82. 

— .  Tunnel  79. 

Gottlieben  22. 

Gottmadingen  20. 

Gottschallenberg  41. 

Gotzis  353. 

Goumois  169. 

Gouter,  Dome  du  213. 

— ,  Aiguilles  du  213.  222. 

Gozzano  381. 

Grabs  291. 

Grafenort  87. 

Graffeneire,  the  235. 

Grai'an  Alp,  the  240 


Graisivaudan ,   Valley  of  Grimbach  Valley  151. 


209. 

Graitery,  Mont  7. 
Grand-Combin,  the  235. 

Moveran,  the  242. 

Kant,  the  219. 

Grand-Plateau,  the  222. 

Sacconnex  185. 

—  -Sal^ve,  the  186. 

Vaux  162. 
Grande-£au,  the  165. 166. 

199, 

Grande  Gorge,  the  186. 
Grands-Mulets,  the  222. 
Grandes  Roches,  the  192. 


Grandson  173. 
Grandval  7. 
Granfeldea  7. 
Gran  gen -bridge,  the  142. 
Granges  254. 

—  Neuves  241. 
Granges,   les  225. 
Granier,  Mont  209. 
Granois  155. 
Graplang,  ruins  47. 
Grasonet  223. 
Grassen,  the  88. 
Gratschluchtgletscher 

138. 
Graubiinden,  the  Canton 

287 
Grau-Haupt,  the  383. 
Grauhomer,  the  284.  286. 
Graun  349. 
Graustock,  the  131. 
Gravedona  386. 
Gravellona  260. 
Greifensee,  the  43. 
Greifenstein,  castle  319. 
Greina  Pass,  the  307. 
Grellingen  6. 
Grenchen  10. 
Grengiols,  bridge  of  142. 
Grenoble,  Route  de  209. 
GrenzachS.  18. 
Greppen  50. 
Gressoney,  Val  383. 

—  St.  Jean  383. 

—  la  Trinity- 383. 
Gr^sy-sur-Aix  208. 
Greyerz  158. 

Gria,  Glacier  de  214. 
Grialetsch    Glacier ,    the 

316. 
— ,  Val  315. 
Griante  385. 
Griatschouls,  Piz  335. 
Gries  Glacier,  the  143. 

—  Pass,  the  143. 
Griessen  20. 
Griessenbach,  the  77. 
Grigna,  Monte  387. 


Grimence  246. 
Grimisuat  152. 
Grimmenstein,  ruins  39. 

151. 
Grimmi,  the  151. 
Grimsel,  the  136. 
Grimselgrund,  the  136. 
Grimseln  152. 
Grimsel  Hospice,  the  135. 
Grindelalp,  the  122.  173. 
Grindelwald  118. 

Glaciers  119. 

,  the  Lower  119. 

,  the  Upper  119. 


400 


INDEX. 


Blackenfltock,  the  88. 
St.  Blaise  11.  163.  171. 
Blatiere,  Aig.  de  218. 
Blanc,  Mont  '221. 
Blanchard,  the  '204. 
Blankenburg .    castle    of 

154. 
St.  Biasien  19. 
Blatten  92.  256.  268. 
Blatten,  castle  '282. 
Blaue  Gletscher,  the  122. 
Blegno  Valley,  the  311. 
Bleicki,  the  lower  108. 
Bleisas  verdas  '294. 
Blevio  392. 
Blinden,  or 
Blinnen  Thai,  the  140. 
Blitzingen  140. 
Blonay  near  Vevay  194. 

—  near  Evian  204. 
Bloye  208. 
Bludenz  352. 

Blue  Lake,  the  146. 
Blumalp,  the  87. 
Blumenstein,  bath  102. 
Blumlisalp,  the  147. 

—  Glacier,  the  147. 
Boccareccio ,     Passo    del 

141. 
Bocca  Rossa  141. 
Boccioletto  382. 
Boch,  Val  del  339. 
Bochard,  Aig.  du  218! 
Bockli,  the  77. 
Bocktschingel,  the  78. 
Bodeli,  the  106. 
Bodensee,  the  22. 
Bodio  84. 

Bodmer,  castle  283. 
Bodmialp,  the  110. 
Boege  187. 
Boesio,  the  376. 
Boeuf,  Pas  du  249. 
Bofllens  175. 
Bohlegg,  the  110. 
Bois,  les  219.  223. 
Bois,  Glacier  des  218. 223. 
Bokken  41. 
Boletto  381. 
Bolladore  345. 
Bolligen  98. 
Bollingen  44. 
Boltigen  153. 
Bon-Nant,  the  214.  228. 
Bonaduz  356. 
Bondasca,  the  364. 

—  Glacier,  the  364. 
Bunder-Krinden,  the  146. 
Bondo  364. 

— ,  Alp  333.  341. 
Bonhommc,  Col  de  230. 
Bonigen  105.  1*27. 


•!  I 


Bonnefemme,  la  230. 
Bonneville  213. 
Bons  187. 
Bonvillars  173. 
Bonstetten  34. 
Borca  262. 

Borgne,  the  244.  253. 
Borgnone  374. 
Borgo-Sesia  382. 

—  Vice  370.  391. 
Borgomanero  382. 
Borgonuovo  365. 
Bormio  345. 
Bornes,  Mont  des  211 
Bornov  365. 
Borromean  Islands  377 
Borterhorn,  the  249. 
Bosalgau,  Alp  110. 
Bosco     V4. 

— ,  Val  del  374. 
Bosenstein,  the  111. 
Bose  Seite,  the  134. 
Bosquet  de  Julie  195. 
Bosson,  Bees  de  246. 
Bossons,  glacier  des  214 

216.  220. 
lea  214. 

Botiggia,  Col  di  382. 

Bottarello,  Pizzo  di  '260 

Botzlingen  76. 

Bouc,  the  Trouina  de  241 

Boudevillers  168. 

Boudry  172. 

Bougy  190. 

— ,  Signal  de  190. 

Bourdeaux  208. 

Bourg  St.  Maurice  233. 

—  St.  Pierre  235. 
Bourgeaud,  Ic  234. 
Bourget,  lac  du  207. 
Bourgillon  160. 
Boussine,  Tour  de  241. 
Bouveret  205. 

Boval  332.  334. 
Boveresse  170. 
Bovernier  234. 
Bozinger  Hohe  7. 
BraU  336. 

Bramberg,  the  159. 
Bramegg,  the  92. 
Bramois  244. 
Brand  352. 
Brand,  im  109. 
Brandlisegg,  the  110. 
Brandner-Fernor  352. 
Brassus,  le  175. 
Bratz  352. 
Braulio,  the  346. 
— ,  Mte.  346. 
Braunwaldberg,  tlio  '293 
Bravuogn  319. 
Bre  372. 


iP.re,   Muu: 
l?r(Mia'.r  i 

lirouai:.  I 

iRri'^t  11/     ! 
Bre;j:i-'ii/'  ; 

—  Kliiu  ■ 

—  W;,i!. 
Breil   Jf  ^ 
Brfiteii!     ■ 
lire i ill.  '•'. 

IScnii 


/ 


,     lU'ilV 

-,   tl... 
i —   <il;i>-i'  ■• 
|Breitl;iii<' 

liroiul.    ■  . 
fBroiuH.    !■ 

Broni-x.    " 
'Bi'ciilai,- 

BroiHH  I    ! 

Br<Miii<>.    t 

Broiwa. 

BriMmii;-  .< 

Bn-->liiii.. 

Breuil.    " 
'Brt  vt  ir. 
— ,   111.    ' 

Bi'f/i>ii. 

Brian    a. 

Bi-ii'.-; 

St.    I'.-,. 

Bri,':-    . 

Brii'iii'' 

Bri.  ■!      ■ 

B.MU     ' 

—  in   ' 

— ,   1-  '■ 
Bri.  >,' 
Bri.  .' 
Bii^rl^ 
Bri-.  ■ 
Brin- 
l^i^i.    ' 
Ihi-    ■ 
]'.i-i-  ■■• 
,Bii-i. 

I'.r 

I'.r... 
]'.•'•- 

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I'riiv  f.    1 

J'.IU' 

I'.ni 

Brui' 

i'."iii: 

B.-i    . 

Br... 

Bi-,-, 

I 1 1 


408 


INDEX. 


Orisons,  Canton    of  the 

287. 
Orond,  Pis  306. 
Grono  368. 

Gro8-Jean ,  TSte  du  242. 
Orosina,  Val  345. 
Orosio  345. 
Orosotto  345. 
Groflse  Auberg,  the  43. 
Grosahom,  the  113. 
Grossthal,  the  75.  293. 
Grotte  aux  f^es,  the  200. 
Grovello  144. 
Grub,  Katholisch-  276 
— ,  Beformirt-  276. 
Gruben  249. 
Gruben-Alp.  the  250. 
Griim ,  Alp  332.  341. 
Griinenberg,  the  111. 
Grunhomliicke,  the  135. 
Griisch  312. 
Gruyfere  158. 
Grynau,  castle  44. 
Gryon  242. 
Gryonne,  the  156. 
Gschwand-Alp  55. 
Gspaltenorn,  the  113. 
Gspon  266. 
Gstaad  155. 
Gsteig,   near  Interlaken 

109.  111. 
— ,  in  the  Sarine  Valley 

155. 
— ,  on  the  Simplon  258. 
Gsteigthal,  the  155. 
Gsteigwyler  109. 
Gstubt-Bach,  the  301. 
Guarda  337. 
Guardavall,  ruins  335. 
Gubel  41. 

Giiferhorn,  the  366. 
Guffern  78. 
Gugel,  the  272. 
Gugelberg,  the  43. 
Guggerloch,  the  290. 
Giiggisgrat,  the  110. 
Guin  159. 
Gulmen,  Alp  308. 
Gumfluh,  the  154. 
Gumihorn,  the  110. 
Giimligen  94.  100. 
Giimminen  163. 
Gtindlischwand  110. 
Gunz  on  the  Simplon  259. 
—  on  the  lake  of  Walleu- 

stadt  45. 
Giirbe,  the  100. 
Gurbenbach,  the  HI. 
Gurezmettlerbaeh ,    the 

132. 
Gurf  144. 
Gurin  144. 


Gumigel  102. 
Gurten,  the  99. 
Gurtnellen  78. 
Guspis  Valley  81. 
Giitsch,  the  51. 
Gtitschen  s.  Gitschen. 
Guttanen  133. 
Guttenberg,  castle  282. 
Giittingen,  castle  25. 
Giiz,  Piz  326. 
Gwatt  152. 
Gyrenspitz,  the  280. 

Haag  282. 
Habkem  110. 

Thai,  the  110. 

Habsburg,  ruins  16. 

— ,  Baths  of  16. 

— ,  Neu-,  chateau  50. 

Hacken,  the  58.  299. 

Haderlibriick,  the  79. 

Hagletschalp,  the  111. 

Hagnau  23. 

Hahle  Platte,  the  134. 

Hahnenmoos,  the  146. 

Ilahnenschritthorn,  the 

155. 

Haldenstein,  ruins  283. 
Hammetschwand,  the  90. 
Handeck,    Falls    of  the 

134. 

Hangbaum>Alp ,  the  75. 
Hanggiessen,  the  15. 
Hannig  Alp,  the  265. 
Hard,  chateau  22. 
Harder,  the  110. 
Hardermannli,  the  109. 
Harzernspitze,  the  101. 
Hasenburg,  the  151. 
Hasenmatt,  the  12. 
Haslen  280. 
Hasli-Grund  125. 
Hasli-Jungfrau,  the  123. 
Hasli-Scheideck,  the  123. 
Hasli,  Valley  of,  or 
Hasli  in    the  Weissland 

125.  133. 
Hasliberg,  the  125. 
Haud^res  245. 
Hauenstein  19. 
Hauenstein,  tunnel  of  8. 
Hauseck,  the  136. 
Hansen,  on  the  Albis  35. 
Hausstock,  the  292. 
Haut-Chatillon  140. 
Haute-Ck>mbe,  monastery 

208. 
Hautemma,Glacier  d'  241. 

246. 
Hautemma,  Piz  241. 
Hauteville,  castle  194. 
Hants  Geneveys,  le«  168. 


Hazingen  293. 
Hedingen  34. 
Heerbrugg  241. 
Heidel  Pass,  the  47. 
Heidelspitz,  the  47. 
Heidebach.  the  321. 
Ueiden  276. 
Heidenthurm,  the  91. 
Heider  See,  the  349. 
Heiligenberg,  castle  25. 
Heiligkreuz,  the  64. 
Heiligkreuzcapelle ,     the 

64. 
Heimwehfluh,  the  108. 
Heinrichsbad  37. 
Heinzenbei^,  the  356. 
Heldsberg  281. 
Helsenhom,  the  141. 
Hemmishofen  21. 
Uenggart  28. 
Herbageres,  Mont  226. 
Herblingen  20. 
Herbrigen  267. 
H^remence,  Val  d'  244. 
Herens,  Col  d'  245. 
— ,  Dent  d'  244. 

Val  d**  244. 

Hergiswyl  52.  89. 
Herisau  37. 
Hermance  203. 
— ,  the  228. 
Herrenberg,  the  299. 
Herrenreuti  88. 
Herrliberg  41. 
Herrsberg  23. 
Hertenstein  70. 
Herzogenbuchsee  9. 
HetUingen  28. 
Heustrichbad,  the  145. 
Hilterfingen  104. 
Hindelbank  14. 
Hinter-Frakmiind  56. 
Hinterrhein,  village  366. 
Hinterrhein,  the  356.366. 
Hinterruck,  the  45.  47. 
Hinter-Waggithal  43. 
Hinwyl  43. 
Hirli,  the  359. 
Hirschensprung,  the  282. 
Hirtenthal,  the  303. 
Hirzel  48. 
Hirzelhohe  48. 
Hirzli,  the  46. 
Hochalple,  the  354. 
Hochbalm  Glacier  265. 
Hoch-Duncan,  the  316. 
Hochenschwand  19. 
Hoch-Etzel,  the  297. 

Finstermunz  350. 

Hochfluh,  the  67.  143. 
Hoch-Byalt,  ruin  358. 
Hochscheyen,  the  302. 


INDEX. 


409 


Hochflteg,  the  267. 
Hochstein,  the   64. 
Hochstollen,  the  91. 
Hochstuckli,  the  300. 
Hochwacht,  on  the  Albis 
35. 

—  on    the  Zugerberg  49. 
Hoch-Wiilflingen  36. 
Hockenhorn,  the  251. 
Hoffnungsau  317. 
Hofstetten ,  near  Brienz 

126. 
— ,  near  Thun  101. 
Hofwyl  14. 
Hohbiihl,  the  106. 
Hohe  Faulen,  the  77. 
Hohe  Frassen,  the  353. 

—  Freschen,  the  353. 
Hohe  Kaflten,  the  279. 
Hohelerch  Glacier,    the 

263 
Hohe  Mesmer,  the  280. 
Hohenbrie8en.  the  75.  86. 
Hohenems  354. 
— ,  Alt-,  caatle  354. 
— ,  ruins  355. 
Hohenklingen  21. 
Hohenrain,  the  36. 
Hohen  -  Rhatien ,    ruinA 

358. 
Hohentrins,  castle  305. 
Hohentwiel  20. 
Hohe-Rhonen,  the  41. 297. 
Hoheweg,  the  106. 
Hohgant,  the  110. 
Hohle  Gasse,  the  50. 
Hohliebe  151. 
Hohwang  Glacier  248. 
Hoierberg,  the  40. 
Hoiren  40. 
Holdri,  the  114. 
HoUengraben,  the  254. 
Hollenhaken,  the  18. 


Hunnenfluh,  the  111. 
Harden  297. 
Hurithal,  the  301. 
Hiisen  132. 
Hutstock,  the  91. 
Hutte,  La  7. 
Hiitten  41. 

Ibuch  58. 

IfTerten  s.  Yverdon. 
Iffigen  151. 
Iffigenbach,  the  151. 
Ignes,  case,  des  245. 
— ,  glac.  des  245. 
ilanz  305. 

He  de  Paix,  the  197. 
Ilfis,  the  93. 
Ill,  the  352.  353. 
lUgraben,  the  254. 
lUiez,  Val  206. 
Illklamm,  the  353. 
Im  Boden  133. 

—  Brand  109. 

—  Gletsch  137. 

—  Grund  56.  125. 

—  Hof  133. 

—  Laad  290. 

—  Lad  143. 

—  Lerch,  chapel  264. 

—  Loch  143.  304. 

—  Selden  251. 
Imfeld  141. 
St.  Imier  10. 
— ,  Valley  of  7. 
Immensee  49. 
Immenstaad  23. 

St.  Immerthal  8.  Imier. 

In  der  Stapf  262. 

Incino  393. 

Inden  150. 

Ingenbohl  58.  72. 

Inkwyl  9. 

Inn,  the  326.  327.  etc. 


Hollenschlund,  the  311.  |Innerthal  43. 


Holzegg,  the  Go. 
Hongrin,  the  158. 
Hopfreben  354. 
Horgen  41. 
Horger  Egg,  the  48. 
Horn  39. 

Homberg,  the  93. 
Homli,  the  274. 
Horw  89. 
Hospenthal  81. 
Huemoz  199. 
Hiifi  Glacier,  the  77. 
Hiiflstock,  the  77. 
Hiillenhom,  the  141. 
Hundsalp,  the  132. 
Hundshorn,the  Great  115. 
Hundwyl  37. 
Hiinegg,  chateau  102. 


ilnnertkirchen  133. 
:lns  163. 

'Intelvi-Vallev,  the  390. 
Interlaken  105. 
Intra  377. 
Intragna  374. 
Intechi  78. 

Intschialpbach,  the  78. 
Imis  8.  Giornico. 
Irtschelen  Alp,  the  127. 
Iselle  259. 

Iseltenalp,  the  110.  122. 
Iseltwald  127.  129. 
Isenthal,  the  75. 
Is^re,  the  209. 
Isla  Persa  332. 
Islas  326. 
Isles,  Les  223. 


Isleten  75. 
Islikon  36. 
Isola  in  the  Engadine  326. 

—  on  the  Spliigen  362. 
Isola  Bella  377. 

—  S.  Giovanni  377. 

—  Madre  378. 

—  dei  Pescatori  378. 

—  Superiore  378. 
Isolaccia  342.  345. 
Itramen  Alp  120. 

Jacobshiibeli ,  the  101. 
St.  Jacques  383. 
St.  Jacob  on  the  Birs  6. 
Jaman,  Dent  de  158. 

Col  de  la  158. 

Jamthal,  the  337. 

Jardin,  the  218. 

Jaun  153. 

— ,  Valley  of  153. 

Jaitzalp,  the  304. 

Jazi,  chalets  de  262. 

— ,  Cima  de  273. 

St.  Jean  247. 

St.  Jean  d'Aulph  204. 

Jenatz  313. 

Jenisberg  317. 

St.  Jeoire  221. 

Jesellen  259. 

Jochli,  the  91. 

Jochpass,  the  131. 

Joderhom,  the  263. 

St.  Johann  am  Platz  316. 

— ,  Alt-  290. 

— ,  Neu-  290. 

Johannisberg,  the,  near 

St.  Horitz  328. 
Joli,  Mont-  228. 
Jolimont,  the  11.  163. 
Jommen,  the  158. 
St.  Jon  839. 
— ,  Piz  339. 
Jona  43. 

Jonen-Fluss,  the  44. 
Jorasses,  les  232. 
Jorat,  Mont-  191. 
Jorgenberg,  ruined  castle 

307. 

Jorio,  Passo  del  387. 
St.  Joseph  am  Gansbrun- 

nen  7. 
— ,  convent  (Muottal  301. 
— ,  near  Schwyz  58. 
Jougne  176. 
Jougnenaz,  the  176. 
Jourplaine,  Col  de  221. 
Joux,  Col  de  383. 
Joux,  lac  de  176. 
— ,  fort  de  171. 
Juf  360. 
St.  Julien  211. 


410 


INDSX. 


Jalier,  the  323. 
Julier,  Piz  323. 
JuIier-AIp,  the  923. 
Jumeattx,  les  272. 
Jung-Alpen,  the  250. 
Jung-Pass,  the  250. 
Jungfrau,  the  116. 
— ,  the  Hasli-  128. 
Jungfrauioch,  the  120. 
Junghokbaohe ,   the  130. 
Jungisbrunnen ,  the  130. 
Jura,  the  6.  176.  etc. 
Jurten  s.  Mont-Jorat. 
Jupiter,  Plan  de  238. 
Juvalta,  ruin  356. 

Kaferberg,  the  36. 
Kagiflwyl  90. 
Kaien,  the  277. 
Kaiserruck,  the   47.   75. 

312. 
Kaisers tuhl,    the,    near 

Lungem  92. 
Kalfeuserthal,fthe'47. 286. 

304.  ■ 

Kalkberg,  the  361. 
Kalkstock,  the  77. 
Kaltbad,  the  62. 
Kaltberg,  ehal.  of  250. 
Kaltbrunn  44. 
Kaltbrunnenkehle,  the  79. 
Kaltenbninn  351. 
Kaltwasser  Glacier,   the 

266.  257. 
Kammerstock,  the  293. 
Kammlistock,  the  30. 
Kamor,  the  279. 
Kanalthal,  the  306. 
Kander,  the  145.  153. 
Kander  Glacier,  the  147. 

256. 
Kandergrund  146. 
Kandersteg  146. 
Kandle,  the  152. 
Kanzel,  the,  on  the  Giess- 

bach  128. 
Kanzel,  the,  in  the  Rhine 

valley  282. 
Kanzli,  near  Brienz  126. 
— ,  the,  on  the  Bigi  62. 
— ,  near  Seelisberg  72. 
— ,  Via  Mala  368. 
Kappel  on  the  Albis  35. 
—  in  the  Toggenburg  290. 
Karpfstock,  the  292.  304. 
Karrholen,  the  HI. 
Karstelenbach,  the  77. 
Kasbissen,  the  64. 
Kastelberg  308. 
Kastelen-Alp,  the  55. 
Km  tenbaum  bridge  142. 
Kastris  305. 


Katzenstrick  900. 
Katzis  367. 

Kaunserthal,  the  361. 
Kehlen  Glacier  79. 
Kehlhof  42. 
Kehrbachi  148. 
Kehrsiten  89. 
Kempthal  36. 
Kerenzer^Berg,  the  46. 
Kerns  90. 
Kernwald,  the  90. 
Kesch,  Piz  317.  936. 
Kesseltobel,  the  301. 
Kessiflbodenloeh,  the  63. 
Kesswyl  25. 
Kiemen,  promont.  49. 
Kienbach,  the  115. 
Kienholz  126. 
Kien  Valley,  the  115. 
Kiesen  101. 
Kilchberg  41. 
Killwangen  18. 
Kindlimord,  chapel  72. 
Kinnbrucke,  the  266. 
Kinzigpass,  the  301. 
Kippel  250. 
Kirchberg  23. 
Kirchet,  the  138. 
Kistenpass,  the  294. 
Klamm,  the,  on  the  Arl- 

berg  362. 
St.  Klaus  91. 
Klausen,  the  295. 
Klein-Basel  2. 

—  Lauffenburg  19. 
Klein-Thai,   the,   in   the 

Canton  of  Glarus  293. 
,  in  the  Canton  of 

Uri  75. 
Klein- Wabem  99. 
Klenenhom,  the  267. 
Klettgau,  the  19. 
Klimsenhorn,  the  66. 
Klingnau  19. 
Klonthal,  the  303. 
Kloster-Thal,  the  349. 
Klosterberg-Bridge  302. 
Klosterle  362. 
Klosterli  (Rigi)  67. 
Klosters  314. 
Klostersche    Stiitz ,    the 

314. 
Klus  in  the  Valley  of  the 

Kander  261. 
Klus  in  the  Prattigau  812. 

—  on  the  Beuss  77. 

—  in  theSimmenthal  163. 
Knieri,  the  86. 
Koblenz  20. 
Konigsfelden  16. 
Konigsspitze,  the,  Or 
Konigswand,  the  350. 


Konolfingen  91. 
Kopfenstock,  the  296. 
Koppistein  260. 
Krattigen  106. 
Krauch-Thal,  the  306. 
Krayalp,  the  281. 
Krazembriicke  37. 
Kreuzboden,  the  156. 
Kreuzli  Pass,  the  78.  306. 
Kreuzlingen  25. 
Kriegalp  Pass,  the  141. 
Kriens  61. 
Kriensbach,  the  89. 
Krinnen,  the  151. 
Krisiloch,  the  66. 
Krispalt  s.  Crispalt. 
Kronlet,  the  77. 
Kroschenbrunnen  93. 
Krottenstein,  ruins  283. 
Krummbaeh,  the  258. 
Krummenau  290. 
Kublis  313. 
Kiiblisbad,  the  109. 
Kuhalpthalhom,  the  316. 
KiihbcKlengletscher ,    the 

140. 
Kumerberg,  the  363. 
Kunkels  286. 
Kunkels  Pass,  the  286. 
Kiipfenfluh,  the  317. 
Kurflrsten  s.  Chur&raten. 
Kurzeck  38.  277. 
Kurzenburg,  the  38. 
Kiissenberg,  castle  of  20. 
Kiissnacht  on  the  Lake  of 

Lucerne  60. 
—  on  the  Lake  of  Zurich 

41. 
Kyburg,  the  36. 


La  Balma  229. 

—  Barma  201. 

—  Batiaz  201. 

—  Bergue  187. 

—  Caille,  suspension- 
bridge  211. 

—  Chaine  170. 

—  Chaux-de-Fonds  168. 
du  Milieu  169. 

—  Cluse  near  Aosta  239. 
in  the  Jura  171. 

—  Conversion  162. 

—  Comballaz  164. 

—  Cote  174.  189. 

—  CrSte  2U. 

—  Fille-Dieu,   nunnery 
161. 

—  Fontaine  226. 

—  Foppa  286. 

—  Garde  244. 

—  Gitte  230. 

—  Hutte  7. 


INDEX. 


411 


La  Joux  223. 

—  Lance  178. 

—  Leeherette  154. 

—  Hotta  342. 

—  Pischa  331.  341. 

—  Pleine  207. 

—  Pousaz  199. 

—  Eippe  190. 

—  Rosa  342. 

—  Salle  233. 

—  Sanra,  caatle  233. 

—  Sarraz  175. 

—  Sauge  164. 

—  Saxe,  bath  231. 

—  Seiloz  232. 

—  Stretta  341. 

—  Thuille  233. 

—  Tour  158.  195. 

—  Tourne  169. 

—  Turp,    rained    castle 
359. 

—  Vaux  192.  198. 

—  Villette  228. 
Laas  Feraer,  the  360. 
Laax  305. 

Lac  L^man  188. 
Lac  Noir  153. 
Lachen  42. 
Ladis,  baths  351. 
Lagalp,  Piz  342. 
Lagerhom,  the  271. 
Lagerngebirg,  the  17.  34. 
Laglio  390. 
Lago,  Cima  di  360. 
Lago  Bianco  341. 

—  Maggiore  374. 

—  Minore  341. 

—  Nero  341. 

—  Spalmo,  Cima  di  342. 
Lagref,  Piz  326. 

Lain  321. 
Lambro,  the  39S. 
Lammembach  the  78. 
Lammeren  Glacier,   the 

148. 
Lance,  la  173. 
Landeck  361. 
Landenberg.  the  91. 
Landeron  11. 
Landquart  283.  312. 
— ,  the  283.  312. 
Landskron  6. 
Landwasser,  the  Davoser 

314. 
Langebach,  the  88. 
Langenbruck  9. 
Langendorf  12. 
Langenegg  Alp,  the  302. 
Langenfluh,  the  265. 
Langenstutz  75. 
Lan  gen  thai  9. 
Langisgrat,  the  137. 


Langnau  93. 
Lang-Tauferer  Thai,  the 

349. 
Lang-Thai,  the  141. 
Languard,  Piz  331. 
Langwies  317. 
Lanibach,  the  91. 
Lank  280. 
Laquin  Glacier,  the  258. 

—  Valley  258. 

Laret,   Ober  and   Unter- 

314. 
Laret,  the  Alp  328.  339. 
Lario,  il  386. 
Lasnigo  393. 
Lasquez,  Villa  386. 
Lat,  Piz,  326.  340. 
Laternser  Thai,  the  353. 
Latterbach  153. 
Laubeckstalden,  the  154. 
Lauberhom ,    the    Little 

117. 
Lauberstock,  the  91. 
Laucherhom,  the  122. 
Laudegg,  ruins  351. 
Lauenen  155. 
— ,  Valley  of  156. 
Laufbodenhom,  the  151. 
Laufelfingen  8. 
Laufen,  Schloss  27. 
Lauifen  on  the  Birs  6. 
Laufienbnrg  19. 
Lauibach,  the  156. 
Lauinenthor,  the  115. 
Laupen  159. 
Lausanne  190. 
Lauter-Aar  Glacier,  the 

135. 
Lauteraarjoch,  the  120. 
Lauterbrunnen  112. 

Scheideck,  the  117. 

Lautrach  354. 
Lavancher  218.  223. 
Lavedo,  promontory  390. 
Laveno  376. 
Lavey,  Baths  of  200. 
Lavin  336. 
Lavinuoz,  Val  314. 
Lavinim  Pass  335. 
— ,  Val  335. 
Lavizzara,  Val  374. 
Lax  142. 
Le  Bled  172. 

—  Boui^eaud  234. 

—  Brassus  175. 

—  Breuil  268. 

—  Brocard  234. 

—  Folly  232. 

—  Fouilly  214. 

—  Lac  214. 

—  Lieu  175. 

—  Locle  169. 


Le  Pont  176. 

—  Praz  conduit  220. 

—  Pr^  154. 

—  Prese  343. 

—  Rivage  185. 

—  Sepey  165.  156. 

—  Sentier  175. 
Lebendun  Lake,  the  141. 
Lecco  391. 

— ,  Lago  di  391. 
Lech,  am  355. 
Lechaud.  Glacier  de  217. 
— ,  Col  206.  221. 
Leeherette,  la  154. 
Leckihorn,  the  82. 
Leerau  109. 

Legger,  the  chalet  of  114. 
Leggia  368. 
Legnano  379. 
Legnone,  Monte  387. 
Legnoncino,  Monte  387. 
Lei,  Valle  di  360. 
Lej  alv  341. 

—  nair  341. 
Leis,  Piz  d  ils  341. 
Leissigen  105.  145. 
Leistkamm.  the  45. 
Lemanc  209. 
Lenk  151. 

Lenno  390. 
Lensch  321. 
Lenta  Valley  306. 
Lenz  321. 

Lenzburg,  castle  16. 
Lenzer  Heide,  the  321. 

—  Horn,  the  321. 
St.  Leonard  253. 
Leone,  Monte  258. 
Lerch,  Chapel  264. 
Les  Barats  220. 

—  Billodes  169. 

—  Bois  219.  223. 
Les  Bossons  214. 
-.  Brenets  169. 

—  Chapieux  230. 

—  Chavants  214. 

—  Contamines  229. 

—  Convers  168. 

-  CrStes  195. 

—  D^lices  185. 

—  Eaux-vives  185. 

—  Granges  225. 

—  Hauts-Geneveys  168. 

—  lies  223. 

—  Montets,  near  Servoz 
214. 

—  — ,  near  Trdlechamp 
223. 

—  Mosses  154. 

—  Moulins  154. 

-  Ouches  214.  228. 

—  Pitons  186. 


412 


INDEX. 


Lefl  Planchefl  196. 

—  Plan^ii  157. 

—  Ponto  169. 

—  Pnts  219.  223. 

—  Prc8  Hautfl  219. 

—  Roumes  190. 

—  Tines  218.  223. 
^  Trubots  214. 

—  Vallettes  201.  234. 

—  Veaux  241. 

—  Verrieres  170. 
Lesa  378. 
Letee,  the  300. 
Leuk  150.  254. 
— ,  Baths  of  148. 
Leukelbach  293. 
Leventina,  the  84. 
Lezzeno  390. 
Lichtenberg,  castle  349. 
Lichtensteig  290. 
Liddes  234. 

Liechtenstein,  ruins  283. 
— ,  princip.  of  282. 
Lielpe,  Alp  374. 
Liema  391. 

Liestal  8. 
Lieu,  le  175. 
Ligerz  10. 
Lignerolles  176. 
Limmat,   the   17.  29.  36. 

etc. 
Limmem  -  Bach,  the  294. 
Limonta  391. 
Linard,  Piz  336. 
Lindau  39. 
Lindenhof  40. 
Linth,  the  44.  293. 
Linth-Canal,  the  44. 
— ,  Colony  of  the  44. 
Linththal  293. 
Lipplisbiihl  301. 
Lira,  the  362.  363. 
Lischan,  Piz  339. 
Lischanna,  Vadret  339. 
Littau  92. 
Liverogne  233. 
Livigno  335. 
Livinen-Thal,  the  84. 
Lizeme,  the  243. 
Locarno  373. 
— ,  Lake  of  375. 
Lochau  355. 
Lochbach,  the  139. 
Lochberg,  the  79.  139. 
Lochlipass,  the  305. 
Locle,  Le  169. 
Loeche-Ville  150. 

les-Bains  148. 

Loffelhom,  the  140. 
Loges,  Col  des  168. 
Loggio  385. 
Lombach,  the  106. 


Lommiswyl  12. 
Lona,  Pas  de  246. 
London,  the  207. 
Longeborgne  244. 
Longirod  175. 
Longone  393. 
Lontsch,  the  303. 
Lonza,  the  250. 
Lopper,  the  90. 
St.  Lorenz,  rains  357. 
Lorze,  the  35.  48. 
Loses,  Alp  46. 
Lostallo  d67. 
Lotschen  Glacier,  the  142. 

251. 
Lotschenliicke,  the  142. 
—  Pass,  the  251. 
Lotschenthal,  the  250. 
Lotschen  thai    Grat ,    the 

250. 
Lou^che  s.  Loeche. 
Lourtier  241. 
Lovagny  206. 
Loveno  388. 
Lowenbach,  the  258. 
Lowenberg,  castle  305. 
Lowerz  57. 
Lowers,  island  of  57. 
Lii  339. 
St.  Luc  248. 

Lucciago,  Madonna  di  380. 
Lucendro,  Piz  82. 
Lucendro,  Lake  of  81 . 
Lucerne  50. 
— ,  Lake  of  69. 
Luchsingen  293. 
Lndesch  353. 
Ludwigshafen  22. 
Lueg,  the  14. 
Lugano  370. 
— ,  Lake  of  384. 
Lugete  297. 

Lugnetz  Valley,  the  306. 
Luino  376. 
Lukmanier,  the  311. 
Lumbrein  o06. 
Lumino  368. 
Lungacqua  342. 
Lungenstutz  77. 
Lungem  92. 
— ,  Lake  of  92. 
Lunghin,  Piz  326. 
Liiner  See,  the  352. 
Lunschanei  306. 
Lurllbad  289. 
Liisch,  Lake  of  358. 
Luschadura  336. 
Liisel,  the  6. 
Lussery  175. 
Lussai  339. 
Lustbtihl,  the  109. 
Ltttholdsmatt  56. 


Liitisburg  290. 
Lutry  162.  192.  196. 
Liitschine,   the   106.   Hi. 

114. 
— ,  the  Black  ill.  119. 
— ,  the  White  ill. 
Luttingen  19. 
Liitzelau,  island  of  42. 
Luvis  306. 
Luzein  313. 

St.  Luziensteig,   the  283. 
Lys,  chalets  de  274. 
Lys  Joch,  the  274. 
Lyskamm,  the  274.  383. 
Lys-Valley,  the  383. 
Lyss  8. 
Lyssach  14. 


.,  the  44. 

Maccagno  376. 
Macugnaga  262. 
Madatsch  -  Glacier  ,     the 
348. 

Spitz,  the  348. 

Maderanerthal,  the  77. 
Hadesimo,  the  360.  362. 
— ,  Passo  di  360. 
Madlein,  Piz  339. 
Madonna  di  Lucciago  380. 

—  di  S.  Martino  389. 

—  del  Sasso  on  the  Lago 
Maggiore  373. 

near  the  Lake   of 

Orta  381. 

Madonna  di  Tirano  343. 

Madrera,  Val  391. 

Madriser  Thai  360. 

Madulein  335. 

Magadino  373. 

St.  Magdalene,  Hermitage 
161. 

Maggia  374. 

Maggia,  the  373.  374. 

Maggia,  Val  374. 

Maggiore,  Lago  374. 

Magland  213. 

Magliaso  384. 

Magnin,  Forest  of  226. 

Magreglio  393. 

Maienwand,  the  136. 

Maikirch  163. 

Mainau,  Island  of  25. 

Haing  Glacier,  the  149. 

Mainghom     s.     Torrent- 
horn. 

Maira,  the  363. 

Maisons  Blanches,  Col  des 
236. 

Majoria,  castle  253. 

Maladers  317. 

Maladeyre  195. 

Malaas  283. 


IKDfiX. 


413 


St.   Halchus,    Chapel  of 

63. 
Malenco,    the  Valley  of 

Malero,  the  344. 
Malesco  874. 
Malgrate  391. 
Malix  320. 
Slalleray  7. 
Maloggia,  the.  or 
Maloja  3^.  365. 
Mal8  349. 

Malser  Heide,  the  349. 
Malters  92. 
Ualvaglia  368. 
S.  Mametto  385. 
Sfammem  21. 
Handello  391. 
Hangbach,  the  353. 
Sfangeli  41. 
Manned orf  41. 
Hannenbach  22. 
Hannenberg,   Castle  154. 
H annigrund ,    Valley   of 

151. 
Mann  lichen,  the  119. 
Mapellio  391. 
Marangun,  Alp  314. 
Marbach  21. 
Marcellaz  208. 
Marcheiruz,  Asile  de  175. 
— ,  Col  de  175. 
Harchino,  Villa  372. 
S.  Marco  259. 
Marengo,  de&U  de  236. 
St.  Margarethen  281.  286. 
St.  Margarethenkapf  353. 
Margna,  Piz  della  326. 
MargozBOlo,  Monte  380. 
S.  Maria  di  Castello  84. 

—  Maggiore  374. 

—  della    Salute,    chapel 
85. 

St.    Maria    der    Engeln, 

monastery  290. 
S.  Maria,  Hospice  on  the 

Lukmanier  311. 

—  in    the    Miinsterthal 
336.  349. 

—  in   theEngadine  326 
Sonnenberg,    Chapel 

72. 

—  on  the  Stelvio  347. 
Mariahilf,  Chapel  81. 
— ^  Nunnery  of  58. 
Marienberg  on  the  Etsch 

349. 

—  near  Rorschach  39. 
Marienthal,  the  93. 
Marjelen,  Lake  of  142. 
Markelfingen  21. 
Marlens  210. 


Marmor^,  Monte  326. 
Marmorera  322. 
Maroggia  369. 
Marscholhorn,  the  366. 
Marsoel  289. 
Marstetten  36. 
Marthalen  28. 
Martigny  202. 
Martigny-le-Bourg    202. 
St.  Martin  in  the  Kalfeu- 
ser-Thal  47. 

—  in  the  Lugnetz- Valley 
306. 

—  near  Sallanches  213. 
Martinach  s.  Martigny. 
S.  Martino  on  the  Lake 

of  Lugano  369. 
— ,  Madonna  di  389. 
— ,  il  Sasso  389. 
Martinsbruck  340. 
Martinsloch,  the  304.  306. 
Martinstobel,  the  39. 
Martirutsch,  the  317. 
Masein  357. 
Masino  376. 
Masone  260. 
Massa,  the  143.  256. 
Massari,  Piz  84. 
Massonger  206. 
Masuccio,  Piz  344. 
Mastallone.  Val  383. 
Matran  161. 
Matt  293.  303. 
Matt,  the  143. 
Matten    near   Interlaken 

105. 

—  near    Lauterbrunnen 
111.  115. 

—  in    the    Upper   Sim- 
menthal  150. 

Mattenalp,  the  133. 
Matterhorn,  the  271. 
— ,  the  Little  266. 
Matterjoch,  the  268.  272. 
Matthom,  the  54. 
Mattmarkalp,  the  263. 
Mattmarksee,  the  263. 
Hattwaldhom,  the  265. 
Mauensee,  the  14. 
St.  Maurice  200. 
S.  Maurizio,  Monte  392. 
Mauvais  Pas.  the  218. 
Mauvoisin  241. 
Mayen  s.  Meien. 
Mayenbach  s.  Meienbach 
Mayenfeld  283. 
Mayenreuss  s.  Meienbach 
Medel,  Hz  307. 
Medels  in  theRheinw.  366. 
Medels  Momp^  311. 
Medelser  Thai,  the  311. 
Meeralp,  the  304. 


Meersburg  23. 
M^^ve  210. 
Meggen  50. 

Meggenhom,  the  50.  70. 
Meglisalp,  the  280. 
Mehlbach,  the  90. 
Meiden  249. 
Meiden  Pass,  the  249. 
Meien  132. 
Meienbach,  the  132. 
Meienschanz,  the  132. 
Meienthal,  the  132. 
Meigeren  260.  264. 
Meilen  41. 
Meillerie  204. 
Meina  378. 
St.   Meinrad,   Chapel  of 

297. 
Meiringen  125. 
Melano  369. 
Melch-Aa,  the  90. 
Melchalp,  the  91. 
Melchsee,  the  91.  130. 
Melchthal,  the  91. 
Meldegg,  the  39. 
Melide  369. 
Mellau  354. 
Mellichen  Glacier  264. 
—  Valley  284. 
Melligberg,  the  265. 
Mels  47. 

Melzi,  Villa  389. 
Menaggio  387. 
Mendrisio  369. 
Menoge,  the  212. 
Menouve,  Olac.  de  235. 
Menthon,  Chateau  211. 
Mentue,  the  172. 
Menzberg,  the  93. 
Menzingen  41. 
Mer  de  glace,   the,  near 

Chamouny  217. 
— ,  near  Grindclwald  119. 
Mera  s.  Maira. 
Mera,  Val  3i2. 
Merjelen  See,  the  142. 
Merligen  105. 
Meschino  343. 
Mesmer,  the  280. 
Mesocco  367. 
Mesolcina,  Val  367. 
Messemalp,  the  141. 
Metjehkopf,  the  314. 
Mettelhom,  the  274. 
Mettenberg    the  119. 
Mettlen  280. 
Meyerhof  306. 
Meyrin  207. 
Mezdi,  Piz  336. 
Mezza  Selva  313. 
Mezzem,  Piz  335. 
Mezzola,  Lago  di  363. 


414 


INDBX. 


Miage,  Glacier  de  231. 

Hiasino  380. 

St.  Michael,  Chapel  of  62. 
St.  Michel,   Pia  317.  321. 
S.  Michele  144. 
Midi,  Dent  du  206. 
Mies,  Piz  360. 
Migiandone  260. 
Milan  394. 
Milar,  Val  309. 
Miles  309. 
Millerez  204. 
Min<(,  Mont  246. 
Minger,  Val  339. 
Minschun,  Piz  337.  339. 
Minur,  Val  341. 
Miolana,  ca^itle  209. 
Misaun,  Glacier  332. 
Mischabel,  the  256.  267. 

271. 
Misox,  ruins  367. 
Misoxer  Thai,  the  367. 
Mission  247. 
Mitlodi  292. 
Mittaggiipfi,  the  54. 
Mittaghom,  the  162. 
Mittagsfluh,  the  153. 
Mittagstock,  the  77. 
Mittelberg,  the  329. 
Mittel-Glamisch,  the  302. 
Mittelholz  146. 
Mittelhom,   the  123.  251. 
Mittel-Rhein,  the  306. 311. 
Mittelzell  21. 
Mittenberg,  the  289. 
Mitter-See,  the  349. 
Mitihal  250. 
Modane  20d. 
Moesa,  the  85.  367. 
Moesola,  Lago  366. 
— ,  Piz  366. 

Moine,  Aiguille  du  218. 
Moir^,  Glacier  de  246. 
— ,  Val  246. 
Mole,  the  212. 
Motion,  the  157. 
Molina  368. 
Molinara.  castle  283. 
Molins  aQ2. 
MolUa  383. 
Mollis  291. 
Mologia,  the  325. 
Moltrasio  391. 
Morning,  Glacier  du  248. 
Momp^  Medels  311. 
—  Tavetsch  308. 
Monbiel  314. 
Monch,  the  117. 
— ,  the  Black  116. 
Mcinchsjoch,  the  120. 
Mondatsch,  the  348. 
MondeUi  Pa0S,the  261 .263. 


Mondin,  Piz  340. 
Mondloch,  the  56. 
Monnaie,  Gallerie  de  la 

234. 
Monnetier  186. 
Mons  358. 
Monstein  in  the  Davos  315. 

—  on  the  Rhine  281. 
Montafunerthal,  the  352. 
Montagna  a.  Hemzenberg. 
Montagnes  maudites,  les 

216. 
Montagnier  241. 
Montaraskerbach,  the  327. 
Montanvert  217. 
Montbenon,  the  192. 
Mont  Blanc,  the  221. 
MontboTon  157. 
Mont  Dnrand,  Glacier  du 

241. 
Montenvem  217. 
Monterone  s.  Motterone. 
Montets,  les,  near  Servoz 

214. 
— ,  near  Tr^lechanup  223. 
Monthey  205. 
Montjoie  Valley,  the  228. 
Mont  Joli  228. 
Montm^lian  209. 
Montmirail  168. 
Montmollin  169. 
Montorfano  392. 
Montoz,  the  7. 
Montreux  196. 
— ,  Bale  de  196. 
Mont  Rouge,  Col  du  246. 
Montsalvens,  ruins  153. 
Monza  393. 
Moos  145. 
Mora  Val  345. 
Morast  143. 
Morat  164. 
— ,  Lake  of  164. 
Morbegno  344. 
Morcles,  Dent  de  200. 
Morobte  372. 
Morel  142. 
Morgarten  300. 
Morge,  the,   in  Say.  204. 

—  in  the  Cant,  of  Valais 
243.  253. 

Morgen,  the  262. 

Morgenberghorn,  the  111. 

Morges  190. 

— ,  the  174. 

Morgex  233. 

Morgin  206. 

Morgozzolo  8.  Motterone. 

Moriana,  Col  della  383. 

Morignone  345. 

— ,  Serra  di  345. 

Morimont  6. 


1st.  Moritz  327. 
— ,  Baths  of  328. 
—,  Lake  of  327. 
Morlischachen  57. 
Momex  186. 
Moro,  Monte  268. 
Morschach  73. 
Morschwyl  38. 
Morsperg  6. 
Mort,  Mont  238. 
Morteratsch,  Piz  334. 

—  Glacier  332. 
Mortirolo.  Monte  344. 
Morzine  204.  221. 
Moschelhom,  the  366. 
Mosses,  les  154. 
MoUers  170. 
Motta,  la  342. 
Mottelischloes,  the  89. 
Motterone,  Monte  380. 
Mottet  ^. 

Moutier  in  the  Jura  7. 
-^  en  TarentaiM  233.  210. 
— ,  Val  6. 

Moveran,  the  Grand  242. 
Muggio  370. 

Miihlebachthal,  the  46. 
Miihleberg  163. 
Miihlehorn  46. 
Miihlen  322. 
Miihlenen  145. 
Miihlestalden  131. 
Muhlethal  45. 
Miihlethal,  the  131. 
Miihlibach,     the,     near 

Brienz  126. 

—  on  the  Faulhom   121. 
MuldAin  321. 
Mulets,  the  GrandA  222. 
Mulheim  36. 
Miilinen    in  the  Kaader 

Thai  145. 

—  near  Interlaken  111. 
Mulins  305. 
Miinchen-Buchsee  8. 
Mundaun,  Piz  306. 
Munoth,  castle  21. 
Miinsingen  100. 
Munster  on  the  Birs  6. 

—  on  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance 21. 

— ,  Grisons  349. 

—  in  the  Valais  140. 
Miinsterthal,  the,  in  the 

Canton  of  Grisons  30%. 
349. 

—  in  the  Jura  6. 
Miinsterlingen  25. 
Muot  Selvas,  the  326. 
Muottas,  the  S29. 
Muottathal  301. 
Muotta,  the  78.  801. 


INDEX. 


415 


Mttrailg,  Pis  331. 
M nransa  Valley,  the  347. 
Huraun,  Piz  306. 
Muraz  20b.  243. 
Murdaun,  Piz  306. 
Muretto  PaM^e  325. 
S.  Hurezzan  327. 
Murg  on  the  Rhine  19. 

—  on  the  Lake  of  Wal- 
lenstadt  46. 

— ,  the  19.  36.  46. 
Murgenthal  9. 
Murgthal,  the  46. 
Muri,  abbey  34. 
Miirren  113. 
Hiirrenbach,  the  114. 
Marten  164. 
Hurtener  See,  the  164. 
Murtera,  Piz  339. 
Hurterol,  Piz  316. 
Murtschenstock,  the  45. 
Musella,  Monte  333. 
Musenalp,  the  75. 
Musocco  379. 
Mu880  387. 
Mustail  358. 
Mustair  349. 
— ,  Val  336.  349. 
Muster  306. 
Mutschnengia  311. 
Muttbach,  the  138. 
Mutten  357. 
Muttenz  8. 

Mutthom,    the,    in    the 
Bernese  Alps  147.  2da 

—  near  the  Furca  140. 
Mnttlerspitz,  the  340. 
Muttnerhom,  the  357. 
Muzzano,  Lake  of  384. 
Mylius,  Villa  388. 
Mythen,  the  58. 
Mythenstein    s.    Wyten- 

stein. 

Vadelhorn,  the  271. 
l^adla,  the  114. 
l^afels  291. 
l^ageli's  Grata  136. 
Nair,  Piz  328. 
l^aluns,  Muotta  338. 
Nandro.  Val  321. 
Nangy  212. 
Nanikon  43. 

Kant,  the  Bon-  214.  228. 
— ,  the  Grand-  219. 
Nant   Borant,    Ghal.  de 
229. 

—  Noir,  the,  on  the  Col 
de  Balme  226. 

Kanxer  Thai,  the  266. 
Napf,  the  93. 
Napoli,  VUla  891. 


Nase,  the  105. 
Nasen,  the  71. 
Naters  143. 
Nauders  350. 
Kauderaberg,  Castle  350. 
Navigenze,  the  247. 
Naye,  the  Rochers  de  158. 

196. 
Naz  319. 
Nebikon  14. 
Neftenbach  28. 
Nendeln  353. 
Nenzing  353. 
Nera  Pass,  the  83. 
Kernier  203. 
Nero,  Monte  333. 
Nesselboden-Alp,  the  13. 
Nessenthal,  the  131. 
Nesslaa  290. 
Nessleren  HI. 
Kesso  390. 
Kettstall  291. 
Neuberg  21. 
Neubriicke,  the,  in  the 

Viap- Valley  266. 
Neuburg.  chat.  r.  21. 
Neuch&tel  165. 
— ,  Lake  of  164. 171. 
Keudorf  39. 
Neuenburg  165. 
Neueneck  159. 
Keu-Habsburg,   chateau 

50. 
Neuhaus,  near  Unteroeen 

106. 
Neuhausen  20. 
Keu  St.  Johann  290. 
Keumiinster  40. 
Neunkirch  20. 
Neu  -  Toggenburg ,  ruins 

290. 
Neuveville  10. 
Neu-Wartburg,  Castle  9. 
Neyruz  161. 

St.  Nicolas  de  Veroce  228. 
St.  Nicolaus  in  the  Visp- 

Valley  267. 
S.  Niccolo  da  Mira  84. 
Nidau  10. 
Nidelbad,  the  41. 
Nidfum  293. 
Nidwalden  86. 
Nieder-Bauen,  the  72. 
Niedergcstelen  255. 
Nieder-Tuvalta  366. 
Nieder-Rawyl  152. 
Niederried  l27. 
Nieder-Schonthal  8. 
Niederwald  140. 
Xiederwyl  9. 
Niesen,  the  102. 
— ,  tiie  Hinter-  103. 


Niesenegg,  tbe  103. 
Niggelingen  255. 
St.  Kiklaus  267. 
St.  Niklausen  91. 
Nioue  247. 

Nivolet.  Dent  de  206. 
Nofels  353. 
Nohl  26. 
Noiraigue  170. 
Noir-Mont,  the  189. 
Nolla,  the  358. 
NoUen.the,  on  theGrimsei 
135. 

—  on  the  Titlis  88. 
Nordend,  thefMonteRosa) 

262.  273. 
Kotkerseck,  convent  38. 

277. 
Notre-Name  de  la  Gorge 

229. 

—  de  Gu^rison  231. 

—  des  Hermites  297. 

—  du  Sex  200. 
Nottwyl  16. 
Nova,  Alp  328. 
Novara  381. 
Novel  194. 

Novenna   in   the  Rhein- 

waldthal  366. 
Noyon,  the  175. 
Nudri-Bridge  236. 
Nufelgiu  Pass,  the  141. 
Nufenen   in    the  Rhein- 

waldthal  366. 
Nufenen  Pass,  the  140. 
Nuolen,  baths  ot  42. 
Nurschallas,  Piz  309. 
Nus  269. 
Niiziders  353. 
Nyon  189. 


Obbiirgen  90. 
ObSche,  r  248. 
Ober-Aarglacier,  the  136. 
Ober-Aanoch,  the  136. 
Ober-Albis  36. 
Oberalp,  the  310. 
Oberalpsee,  the  310. 
Oberalpstock,  the  78. 
Ober-Arth  301. 
Ober-Baden  s.  Bad  Leuk. 
Oberberg,  the  110. 
Oberbleggisee,  the  293. 
Oberdorf  12. 
Obere  Buchberg,  the  44. 
Ober  Gabelhorn,  the  247. 
Obergestelen  ikb. 
Oberglatt  64. 
Ober-Gschwand  67. 
Oberhalbstein  Rhine,  the 
321. 


416 


INDSX. 


Oberhalbstelii-Thal ,  the 

322. 
Ober-Haalitbal,  the  133. 
Oberhaupt,  the  &4. 
Oberhofen  lOi. 
Oberkaaem,  Alp  45. 
Oberkastelfl  306. 
Oberland,  the  Bernese  99. 
Oberlauchringen  19. 
Obermatt  132. 
Obermeilen  41. 
Ober  Rickenbach  75. 
Oberried  on  the  Lake 

Brienz  127. 
—  in   the  Rhine -Valley 

282. 
Obenieden  41. 
Obersaxen  306. 
Ober-Schonenbach    73. 

301. 
Obersee,  the  304. 
Ober-Spiringen  296. 
Oberstaad  21. 
Oberstalden,  the  103. 
Oberstdorf  355. 
Oberstrass  29. 
Ober-Umen  291. 
Ober-Uzwyl  37. 
Obervatz  321. 
Oberwald  139. 
Oberwyl  49. 
Obladifl  351. 
Obord  294. 
Obstalden  46. 
Obwalden  90. 
Oche,  Dent  d'  204. 
Ochaenblanke,  the  294. 
Ochsenhom,  the  266. 
Odescalchi,  Villa,  s.  Villa 

Raimondi. 
Oehningen  21. 
Oen,  Ova  d'  326. 
Oerlikon  36. 
Oeach  154. 
Oeschinen,  Alp  115. 
— ,  the  Glacier  of  147. 

Grat,  the  115. 

— ,  Lake  of  116.  147. 

Thai,  the  147. 

Ofenhom^  the  141. 

Ofen-Pass,  the  336. 

Oggebbio  376. 

Oiseau.  the  Bel-  224. 

Olclo  391. 

Oldenalp,  the  Upper  166. 

Oldenhom,  the  156. 

Olimpino.  Monte  370. 

Olivone  311. 

Ollen,  il  Paaao  d'  383. 

Ollomont  241. 

Val  241. 

Ollon  St.  Triphon  199. 


Olten  9. 
Oltingen  15. 
Oltschibach,  the  126. 
Omegna  381. 
Onceheures,  Bet  de  240. 
Onnens  173. 
Onno  391. 
Or,  Mont  d'  176. 
Orbe  175. 
— ,  the  175.  176. 
Orden  325. 

Ordlegna,  the  325.  365. 
of  Oria  386. 
Ormona  155.^ 
Ormont-deASOus  156. 

dessus  155. 

Omavasso  260. 

Orny  175. 

Oro,  Monte  d'  323.  325. 

Oron  162. 

One,  Val  334. 

Orsera  80. 

Orsera  Valley,  the  244. 

Orsi^res  234. 

Orsino,  Pizao  82. 

Orso,  Colmo  del  361. 

Orta  387. 

— ,  Lago  d^  381. 

Ortenstein,  Castle  356. 

Ortler,  the  348. 

Ortstock.  the  295. 

Osogna  85. 

Osaasco  1^. 

Ossola,  Val  d'  259. 

Osteno  385. 

Ostermundingen  100. 

Ot,  Pis  329. 

Ota,  Alp  333. 

Otemma  s.  Hautemma. 

Otterschyl  47. 

Ouches,  les  214.  228. 

Ouchy  190. 

St.  Oyen  239. 

Fadella,  Piz  330. 
Paese  freddo,  the  345. 
Pain  de  Sucre,  the  238. 
Painser  247. 
Paix,  lie  de  197. 
PaMsieux  233. 
Pal^zieux  162. 
Pallanza  377. 
Palpuogna  319. 
Pallanzeno  260. 
Palu,  Piz  di  330. 
—  Glacier,  the  341. 
Palud  210. 
Pambio  372. 
Pan-a-tots  s.  Bonaduz. 
Paneyroasaz,  Glac.  de  242. 
Panix  301. 
Panix  Pass,  the  304. 


Pantenbriicke,  the  29|. 
Para,  chalets  de  la  220. 
Parabiago  379. 
Paradies,  the  366. 
Paradiso  369. 
Pardella  307. 
Pardenn  314. 
Pardi  311. 
Pardisla  312. 
Par^  391. 
Parpan  320. 

Parrot-Spitze,  the  273. 
Part-Dieu,  convent  157. 
Paschugg  289.  330. 
Paspels,  Castle  357. 
Pass  Mai,  the  357. 
Passalacqua,  Villa  391. 
Passetti-Pass,  the  368. 
Pasta,  Villa  386. 
Paud^e,the  162. 192. 196. 
Payeme  165. 
Paznaun  Thai,  the  351. 
Pazzallo  372. 
Peccia  374. 
— ,  Val  374. 
Pedenoflso  345. 
Pedriolo  Alp,  the  262. 

-  Glacier  262. 
Peiden,  bath  306. 
Peist  317. 

P^lerins,  cascade  des  216. 
Pella  381. 
Pellina,  Val  241. 
Pellino,  the  381. 
Perdatsch  311. 
Perralotaz,  Pont  216. 
Pers,  Mont  333. 

-,  Isla  332.  333. 
Perte  du  Rhone  207. 
Peseux  169. 
Pestarena  262. 
St.  Peter,  Hospital  on  the 

Arlberg  352. 
—  (Orisons)  317. 
— ,  Isle  of  10. 
St.  Peter  and  Paul  38. 
Peterhausen  22. 
Petersgrat,  the  250. 
Petersriicken,  the  263. 
St.  Petersthal  306. 
St.  Pelerzell  37. 
Petit-Sacconnex  185. 
Petit-Saleve,  the  186. 
Pfaffensprung,  Bridge  79. 
Pfaffenwand,  the  131. 
Pfaffers,  Abbey  286. 
— ,  Bad  285. 
— ,  Village  286. 
Pfafflkon  296. 
— ,  Lake  of  43. 
Pfaid  s.  Faido. 
Pfander,  the  354. 


Pfannenfitiel,  the  41. 

Pfannstock,  the  30. 

Pfeffingen  6. 

Pftrt  6. 

Pfunds  350. 

Pfyn  (in  the  Valais)  254. 

Pian  Canin  325. 

Plana,  Passo  382. 

Pianazzo  362. 

Pianello  387. 

Piano  d'Erba,  il  392. 

—  del  Tivano,  the  390. 
Plans  351. 

Piatta  Mala  343. 
— ■  Martina  346. 
Piazza,  Gima  di  346. 
Piccola,  Vallc  383. 
Piccolo  Altare,  Col  del 

883. 
Pid  di  Mulera  261. 
Piece,  Glac.  de  241.  246. 
Pierre  adzo,  la  205. 

—  k  B^rard  221. 

—  Pertuis  7. 

—  pointue,  chalets  de  la 
220. 

—  des  servagios  249. 

—  k  voir  202. 

St.  Pierre  d'Albigny  209. 

—  de  la  Cluse  171. 

— ,  castle  near  Aosta  233. 

Mont-Joux  295. 

Pieterlen  10. 
Pigneu,  Baths  of  359. 
Pigno  de  TAroIla  246. 
Pignu,  Guolm  da  304. 
Pilatus,  the  54. 
Pillergletscher,  the  314. 
Pillon,  Col  de  155. 
Pino  376. 

Piora,  Val  83.  308.  311. 
Piottino,  Monte  84. 
Piotta  83. 
Piovema,  the  387. 
St.  Pirminsberg  286. 
Pisch,  Aua  da  349. 
Pischa,  la  331.  341. 
Pisciadella  342. 
Pisoc,  Piz  339. 
Pissevache,  the  201. 
Pitons,  les  186. 
Piumogna,  the  84. 
Piuro  364. 

Pizzigone,  Monte  382. 
Pizzo,  Villa  391. 
Plafna,  Piz,  339. 
— .  Val  337. 
Plaine  des  Dames  229. 
Plan  des  Roses  152. 
Planalp,  the  126. 
Planches,  les  196. 
Plan^,  chalet  157. 


INDEX. 

Planeira  321. 
Planpraz  219. 
Plan  Sena  342. 
Plan  Rai,  Clacier  314. 
Platifer,  the  84. 
PlatU  311.  326. 
— ,  Piz  360. 
Platten.  the  332. 
Plattenberg,  the  303. 
Plattiberg,  the  90. 
Pleiades,  les  194. 
Pleine,  la  207. 
Plessur,  tbM  288.  317. 
Pletschbadr  the  113. 
Pletschen  255. 
Pleureur,  Mont  241. 
Pleyaux  s.  Pleiades. 
Pliniana,  Villa  390. 
Plurs  364. 

St.  Point,  Lake  of  171. 
Pointe  de  Valine  240. 
Poldi,  Villa  390. 
Polleggio  84. 
Pollux,  the  272. 
Pommat,  the  144. 
Pont,  al  141. 
— ,  le  176. 

—  de  Marie  214. 

—  St.  Martin  383. 
Pontarlier  171. 
Ponte  335. 

—  Chiasso  370. 

—  del  Diavolo  345. 

—  Grande  261. 

—  S.  Pietro  391. 

—  Tresa  384. 
Pontet  229. 

Pontlatz  Bridge,  the  351 
Pontresina  330. 
Ponts,  Les  169. 
— ,  les  Petits  169. 
Poraretaz,  the  242. 
Porchabella  Glacier  317 
Porchery  241. 
Porlezza  385. 
Porrentruy  6. 
Port  Alban  171. 

—  Valais  204. 

Porta    da    Spescha,    the 

294. 
Porte  du  Sex,  la  205. 
Porto  376. 

Poschiavino,  the  342. 
Poschiavo  343. 
— ,  Lago  di  343. 
Pousaz,  la  199. 
Poyaz  223. 
Pozzolo,  Pizzo  260. 
Praborgne  270. 
Prad  348. 
Pradella  339. 
Pragel,  the  302. 


BiKDBKEB,  Switzerland.    6th  Edition. 


417 

Pri^ean  244. 
Pralaire,  the  187. 
Prangins,  castle  189. 
Prarayer  241. 
Prarion,  the  214.  228. 
Prasanz  322. 
Prato  374. 
Pratteln  8. 
Prattigau,  the  312. 
Praz,  les  219.  223. 

—  conduit  220. 
Praz  de  Fort  232. 
Pr^,  le  154. 

—  Sec  232. 
Pr^  de  Voex  6. 
Preda  319. 
Pr^gny  186. 
Premadio  342. 
Premia  144. 
Premosello  260. 
Prequartero  261. 
Pr^rayen  246. 

Pr^  St.  Didier  233. 
Prese,  le  343. 
Pressura,  Monjte  347. 
St.  Prex  174.  190. 
S.  Primo,  Monte  390.  393. 
Primsch  45. 
Prina,  Villa  376. 
Promenthouse ,    the   174. 

189. 
Promenthoux  189. 
Promontogno  865. 
Prosa,  the  82. 
Proz,  Cantine  de  235. 
— ,  Plan  de  235. 
Priima,  Alp  332. 
Pruntrut  6. 
Prutz  351. 
Pulaschin,  Piz  323. 
Pulgezza,  Val  336. 
Pully  192. 

Pultmenga,  tower  309. 
Punt  Martina  340. 
Puntaata,  Bridge  336. 
— ,  Val  336. 
Puschlav  343. 
Pusiano,  Lago  di  392. 
Putz  313.' 
Pyrimont  207. 

auarazza,  Val  di  382. 
Quarsano  390. 
Quart,  chateau  269. 
Quarten  46. 
Quinten  45. 
Quinto  84. 

Rabius  307. 

Rabiusa,    the  (Churwal- 
den)  320. 

27 


1 


418 


INDSX. 


RabiuM,  the  (Savierthal) 

906. 
Radolphszell  20. 
Ragats  283. 
Ragol  286. 
Raimeux,  Mt.  7. 
Baimondi,  Villa  391. 
Balligfltocke,  the  104. 
Rambach,  the  336.  349. 
Ramin-Paos,  the  304. 
RamplagnaA  357. 
Ramuosch  340. 
Ranasca  Alp,  the  304. 
Randa  267. 
Ranft,  the  91. 
Rang,  Tate  de  168. 
Rankweil  353. 
Ranzola-Furke,  the  383. 
Rapperschwyl  42. 
— ,  Bridge  of  42. 
Raron255. 
Raschill,  Piz  320. 
Raterisboden,  the  135. 
Raterschen  37. 
Raetikon  Chain,  the  312. 

352. 
Rauft,  the  129. 
Rausse,  the  7. 
Raut  Glacier,  the  258. 
Rauthorn,  the  258. 
Rautifelder,  the  291. 
Rautispitz,  the  291.  302. 
Raveischg  Lakes,  the  217 
Raverette,  la  154. 
Ravetsch,  Piz  310. 
Ravins,  lei  152. 
Rawyl.  the  152. 
Rawymorn,  the  152. 
Razliberg,  the  151. 
Razli  Glacier,  the  151. 
Realp  139. 

Realt,  Hoch-.  ruin  358. 
Realta,  ruind57. 
Reams  322. 
Rebstein  281. 
Reckingen  140. 
Redasco,  Piz  346. 
Regen8berg34. 
Regoledo  387. 
Rehtobel,  the  277. 
Reichenau  356. 
— ,  Island  of  21. 
Reichenbach  145. 
— ,  Castle  14.  99. 
— ,  the  124. 
— ,  Falls  of  the  124. 
Reiden  14. 
Reidenbach  153. 
Reiselstock,  the  30. 
Rells-Thal,  the  352. 
S.  Remigio,  promontory 

377. 


Remus  340. 
St.  Remv  239. 
Renens  174. 
Rennendorf  7. 
Reposoir  Valley,  the  213. 
Res,  Piz  del  315. 
Reschen  350. 
Scheideck,  the  360. 

—  -See,  the  350. 
Resegone  di  Lecco  392. 
Resel  383. 

Resi,  the  12. 
Resy  383.      j^ 
Reuchenette  7^ 
Reulisenberg,  the  151. 
Reuschbach,  the  155. 
Reuse,  the  170. 173. 
Reuss,  the  17.  75  etc. 
Reutte  354. 
Rezzonico  387. 
Rhaziins  356. 
Rhein,  Averser-  360. 
— ,  Hinter  (Source  of  the 

Rhine)  366. 
— ,  Medelser-  or 
— ,  Mittel-  308.  311. 
— ,  Val  360.  366. 
— ,  Vorder-  304.  310. 
Rheineck  39.  281. 
Rheinfelden  18. 
Rheinklingen  21. 
Rheinthal,    the   Vorder- 

304. 

Rheinwaldhorn,  the  366. 
Rheinwaldthal ,   the  360. 

367. 

Rhine,  the  1.  3.  18.  etc. 
— ,  the  Falls  of  26. 
Rho  379. 
Rhodan,  the  137. 
Rhone,  the  137.  179.  etc. 
— ,  Glacier  of  the  137. 

-,  Perte  du  207. 
Rhonen,    the   Hohe-    41. 

297. 

Rhonestock,  the  79. 
Rialt.  a  143. 
Richisau  302. 
Richterawyl  41. 
Rickelshausen  20. 
Rickenbach  58.  87. 
Riddes  253. 
Ried  on  the  Inn  351. 
— ,  in  the    Lotschenthal 

251. 
— ,  in  the  Muotta  Valley 

—  in' the  Valais  142. 
Rieder  Alp,  the  142. 
Riedem  303. 
Riedmatten,  Col  de  246. 
Riedwyl  13. 


Riehen  5. 
Riein  306. 
— ,  Piz  306. 
Ri^re,  the  253. 
Rieseten-Grat,  the  286. 

903. 
Rietberg.  castle  357. 
Riffair  349. 
Riffelberg,  the  270. 
RifTel-Chalets  271. 
Riffelhom,  the  273. 
Riffelhom-Lake,  the  272 
Riggisberg  102. 
Rigi,  the  60. 

—  Kaltbad  60.  62. 

—  Klosterli  60.  67. 
Kulm,  the  64. 

-Rothstock,  the  63. 
-Scheideck  60.  67. 
— ,  Staffel  60.  62. 
Rigidalstock,  the  87. 
Rima  383. 
Rimasco  382. 
Rimpfischhorn,  the  264. 
Rinderbiihl  78. 
Rinderhorner,  the  147. 
Ringelspitz,  the  357. 
Ringgenberg,    ruins  109. 

127. 

Rinkenberg  307. 
Rinkenkopf,  the  304. 
Ripaille,  castle  204. 
Rippe,  la  190. 
Ritom,  Lake  of  83. 
Ritter  Pass,  the  141. 
Ritzingen  140. 
Ritzligratli,  the  121. 
Riva  near   the   Lake  of 

Como  363. 

—  in    the    Sesia- Valley 
383. 

—  di  Palanzo  392. 
Riva,  Lago  di  365. 
Rivage,  le  186. 

Rivaz  St.  Saphorin  162. 
Rive  190. 
— ,  auf  der  262. 
Riviera,  the  84. 
Roasco,  the  345. 
Roc  Noir,  the  248. 
S.  Rocco  144. 
Roche  in  the  Jura  7. 

—  on  the  Rhone  198. 
Roche  Fendue.  the  169.  rj 

—  Perc«le,  la  224. 
Roches,  Cul  des  169. 
Rodont-Bridge,  the  81. 
Roffel,  Cima  di  274. 
Roffna-Ravine,  the  360. 
Roffha  322. 
Roggenhom,  the  313. 
Roggwyl  9. 


INDEX. 


419 


Bohr  16. 
Ruhrach,  the  79. 
Bohrbachstein,  the  152. 
Rohren  90. 
Rolle  190. 
Romagnano  382. 
Ronaainmotier  175. 
Romanshom  36. 
Romont  161. 
Ronchetti   posta  381. 
Ronco  376. 
Rond-Chatel.  castle  7. 
Rongellen  358. 
Rorschach  38. 
Rorschacher  Berg,  the  39. 
Rosa  la  342. 
Rosa,  Monte  262.  273. 
Rosalette,  the  229. 
Rosanna,  the  351. 
Rosatsch,  Piz  333. 
Roseg,  Fiz  334. 

—  Glacier  332. 
— ,  Valley  of  332. 
Rosenbach,  the  115. 
Rosenberg ,  the ,  near  St. 

Gallen  38. 
Rosenhorn,  the  123. 
Rosenlaui ,   baths  of  124. 

—  Glacier  124. 
Rossa  368. 
Rossalp,  the  121. 
Rossberg,  the  57. 
Rossboden    Glacier ,    the 

258. 
Rossbuhel,   the  39. 
Rossmatt,  the  305. 
Rosso  di  Sceracen,  Monte 

330. 
Rossstock-chain,  the  30. 
Rossweid,  the  64. 
Rothbach,  the  279. 
Rothe,  the  12. 
Rothegg,  the  88. 
Rothe  Eck,  the  110. 

—  Kummen,  the  272. 

—  Totzen,  the  54. 

—  Wand,  the  355. 
Rothenberg  154. 
Rothenbrunnen  356. 
Rothenburg  15. 
Rothenfluh ,    the ,     near 

Vitznau  63.  71. 

—  near  Lauterbr.  111. 
Rothenthurm  300. 
Bothgratli,  the  75. 
Rothhorn.   the   Brienzer 

126. 
— ,  the  Sigriswyler  104. 
— ,  the  Walliser   135. 

—  near  Zermatt  271.  274. 
Rothihom,  the  122. 
Rothkreuz  35. 


Bothlatt  Glacier,  the  265. 
Rothloch,  the  135. 
Both-See,  the  35. 
Bothstock,  the  Bigi  63. 
— ,  the  Engelberger  75. 
— ,  the  Uri-  75. 
Boththal,  the  115. 
Botondo,  Pizzo  82. 
Botten,  the  137. 
Bougemont  154. 
Rouinette,  the  241. 
Rousseau's  Island  179. 
Bousses,  les  190. 
Route  de  Grenoble  209. 
Rovana,  Val  374. 
Rovano,  Passo  334. 
Roveredo  368. 
Rovio  370. 
Rozberg,  the  90. 
Rozloch,  the  90. 
Rubigen  100. 
Rublehom,  the  154. 
Ruchen,   the  Grosse  77. 
Ruchenglarnisch,  the  302. 
Ruchi,  the  296. 
Ruden  259. 
Rudenz,  castle  75. 
Roe  162. 
Rueras  309. 
Riiete  14. 
Run,  the  57. 
Rugen,  the  kleine  106. 
Ruinatsch,  the  328. 
Ruis  307. 
Rumilly  206. 
Ruppen,  the  282.  277. 
Rupperschwyl  16. 
Rusa,  la  342. 
Riischlikon  41. 
Rusein,  Piz  294. 
— ,  Val  294.  308. 
Ruseiner  Tobel,  the  307. 
Riithi  in  the  Rhine  Valley 
282. 

—  near  Rapperschwyl  43. 

—  near  Stachelberg  293. 
Riitifirn,  the  132. 
Riitimatt  71. 

Riitli,  the  74. 
Ruz,  Val  de  168. 
Ryalt,  Hoch-,  ruin  358. 
Rympfischhom ,  the  264. 

Saane  s.  Sarine. 
Saanen  154. 

—  Moser,  the  154. 

Saas  im  Grund,   in   the 

Valais  265. 
Saas  in  thePrattigau  313. 
Saasberg,  the  293. 
Saas-Pass,  the  260. 
Saasgrat,  the  256. 


Sacconncx  185. 
Sachseln  91. 
Sackingen  19. 
Sacro  Monte,   the,   near 

Orta  381. 
Sacro  Monte  near  Varallo 

382. 
Safienthal,  the  305. 
Safierberg,  the  305. 
Sagens  305. 

Sageroux,  Col  de  206. 221. 
Sagisthal  See,  the  122. 
Sagliains,  Val  314. 
Sagne,  Mont  168. 
—  Valley,  the  169. 
Saillon  252. 
Sajento,  the  343. 
Sala  390. 
Salenstein  22. 
Salenton,  Col  de  220. 
Sales  162. 
Saletz  282. 
Saleve,  Mont  186. 
Salgesch  150. 
Saljoan  232. 
Sallanches  213. 
Salle,  la  233. 
Sallenche,  the  201. 
Sallifere,  Tour  206. 
Salorino  369. 
Saltine,  the  256.  257. 
Salute,  la  376. 
Salux  322.  358. 
Salva  342. 

S.  Salvatore,  Monte  372. 
Salvagny  220. 
Salvan  225. 
Samaden  329. 
Sambucco  374. 
Samedan  329. 
Samina  Valley  353. 
Samadoigna  ^6. 
Samoens  206.  221. 
Samtis-See,  the  280. 
Sand-Alp,  Lower  294. 

-,  Upper  294. 
Sandalp  Pass,    the    294. 

308 

Sandbach,  the  294. 
Sand  Glacier,  the  308. 
Sandfirn,  the  294. 
Sandhubel,  the  317. 
Sanetsch,  the  155. 
Sanetschhom,  the  155. 
Sanfleuron  Glacier  243. 
Sanna,  the  351. 
Saoseo  Corno  di  342. 
St.  Saphorin  192. 
Sarcuns  309. 
Sardaskabach,  the  314. 
Sardona  Glacier,  the  304. 
Sargans  47.  282. 

27* 


420 


INDEX. 


Sarine,  the  154.  1S9.  163. 

etc. 
Sarmieux  225. 
Sarncn  90. 
— ,  Lake  of  91. 
— ,  Valley  of  91. 
Sarner  Aa,  the  90. 
Sarra,  la,  castle  238. 
Sarraz,  la  175. 
Sa8s  fura  364. 
Sass  plana  360. 
SasAalbo,  Pizzo  343. 
Sassella  344. 
Sassella  Pass,  the  374. 
Sasseneire,  the  246. 
Sasso  del  ferro,  il  376. 

—  S.  Hartino  389. 

—  Rancio,  il  387. 
Satigny  207. 
Sattel  300. 
Satteli,  the  130. 
Saiige,  la  164. 
Saugem  6. 
Sausbach,  the  111. 
Saut  du  Chien ,  the  243. 
Sauterot  244. 
Savierbach,  the  306. 
Savierberg,  the  305. 
Savognin  322. 

Sax  282. 

Saxe,  la,  bath  231. 
— ,  Mont  de  231. 
Saxel  Col  de  187. 
Saxer  Lucke,  the  282. 
Saxeten  HI. 
Saxon,  Baths  of  252. 
Scalle,  Mte.  delle  245. 
Scale  di  Fraele  345. 
Scaletta-Pass,  the  316. 
Scanfs  335. 
Scara  Orell  82. 
Scaradra  Pass  306. 
Scarl  339, 
Scarl,  Val  339. 
Scarljochl,    the  339. 
Scerscen     Glacier ,     the 
333. 

—  Pass,  the  334. 
Scesaplana,  the  352. 
Schaan  353. 
Schachen  92. 
Schachenbach,  the  76. 

296. 
Schachenbad,  the  40. 
Schachenthal,  the  76. 
Schadau,  chateau  102. 
Schadbiirg,  the  109. 
Schaddorf  76. 
Schadona  Pass,  the  353. 
Schafberg,  the  291.  331. 
Schafboden,  the  280. 
Schaflfhausen  20. 


Schafle's  Eck  280. 
Schafinatt,  the  16. 
Schaftelen  131. 
Schalbet-Gallery,  the  267. 
Schams  359. 
—  Valley  of  369. 
Schanfiggthal,  the  317. 

320. 
Schangnau  111. 
Schanis  44. 

Schaniser  Berg,  the  44. 
Scharans  321.  357. 
Scharinas  309. 
Schattcnburg,  ruins  353. 
Schatzberg,  the  316. 
Schaubhom,  the  134. 
Schauenburg,  ruins  8. 
Scheerhom,  the  2^. 
Scheibenstoll,  the  45. 
Scheideck,  the  Great  123. 
— ,  the  Hasli  123. 
— ,  the   Lauterbmnnen 

117. 
— ,  the  Little  117. 
— ,  the  Beschen  350. 
— ,  the  Rigi  67. 
— ,  the  Susten  132. 
— ,  the  Wengem  117.* 
Scherzligen  101.  104. 
Scheuss,  the  7. 
Scheye,  the  302. 
Schiahom,  the  316. 
Schienhom,  the  1^. 
Schiers  313. 
Schilan,  the  352. 
Schild,  the  68. 
Schildhom,  the,  near  the 

vaHey  of  Gas  tern  251. 
Schilt,  the  292. 
Schilthom,   the  (near 

Murren)  113. 
Schindellegi  296. 
Schinznach  16. 
Schinznach,  Baths  of  16. 
Schipsius,  the  82. 
Schirmensee  42. 
Schlagstrassc,  the  300. 
Schlans  307. 
Schlappiner  Joch,  the 

352. 
Schlarigna  329. 
Schlauche ,    the    finstere 

133. 
Schlechtenwaldegg ,  the 

103. 
Schleins  340. 
Schleuis  306. 
Schlicren  18. 
Schlierenbach,  the  56. 
Schlierenthal,  the  91. 
Schlinga,  Val  340. 
Schlossberg,  castle  10. 


Schlossberg ,    the ,     near 

Bregenz  3oi. 
— ,  the,  near  the  Surenen- 

pass  88. 

—  Glacier,  the  77. 
Schlossfelsen,  the  75. 
Schludems  349. 
Schmadribach ,    Fall     of 

the  114. 
Schmerikon  42.  44. 
Schmitten  (Belfort)  318. 

—  near  Freiburg  159. 

—  (Prattigau  312. 

—  (Schanfigg)  317. 
Schnan  352. 

Schnanerbach,   the  352. 
Schnaus  307. 

Schneckeninsel,  the    127. 
Schneehom,  the,  on   tbe 

Jungfrau  116. 

—  near  the  Spliigen  361. 
Schneidehorn.  the  152. 
Schnepfau  364. 
Schnurtobel,  the  62. 
Schollberg,  the  282. 
SchoUenen,  the  79. 
Schonboden,  the  297. 
Schiinbrunn  49. 
Schonbiihl  14. 
Schonegg  Pass,  the  75. 
Schonenbuch,  Ober-  301. 
Schonenwerth  15. 
Schonfels  49. 
Schonibriick,  the  79. 
Schopemau  364. 
Schratten,  the  96. 
Schreckhom,  the  117. 
Schreienbach,  the  294. 
Schrienen,  Alp  47. 
Schroecken,  the  354. 
Schruns  352. 

Schuls  338. 
Schiipfen  8. 
Schiipfheim  93. 
Schwabhom,  the  122. 
Schwalmem,  the  111. 
Schwanau,  island  of  57. 
Schwanden,  on  the  Lake 
of  Brienz  126. 

—  in  the  Canton  of  Gla- 
ru8  292. 

Schwandi  66. 
Schwandifluh,  the  73. 
Schwarenbach  147. 
Schwarzach  364. 
Schwarzbach,  the  147. 
Schwarzberg  Glacier,  the 

263. 
Schwarzbrunnen.  the  ISO. 
Schwarzbrunnenorucke, 

the  134. 
SchwarzeGlacier,  the  147. 


INDEX. 


421 


Schwarze  Hunch,  the  113. 
Schwarzenbach  37. 
Schwarzenburg  102. 
Schwarze  See,  the,  in  the 

Davos  314. 
Schwarzfirn  Glacier ,  the 

75. 
Schwarzhom,  the,  near 

the  Faulhorn  122. 

—  near   the   Fliiela-Pass 
315. 

—  in  the  Valais  250. 
Schwarz-See,  the  274. 
Schwarzthor,  the  274. 
Schwarzwald  Glacier,  the 

123. 
Schwarzwasser ,  the  102. 
Schwegmatt,  the  271. 
Schweiningen  322. 
Schweizer-Thor,  the  312. 

352. 
Schwellau,  the  302. 
Schwendenthal ,  the  151. 
Schwendi  280. 
Schwendi-Kaltbad  91. 
Schwerzenbach  43. 
Schwyz  58. 

Schynige  Platte,  the  109. 
Schyn  Pass,  the  321.  357. 
Schyn-Road,  the  new  357. 
Sciernps  158. 
Scionzier  213. 
Sciundrau,  Lago  374. 
Scopi,  the  311. 
Scudelatte  370.  ( 

Scuol  338. 
Sedrun  309. 
Seeboden-Alp,  the  64. 
Seedorf  75. 
Seehorn,  the  151. 
Seelisberg  72. 
Seelisberger    Kulm,    the 

72. 
Seemattli,  the  135. 
Seesvenna,  Val  339. 
Seewen  58. 
Seewinen    Glacier ,     the 

263. 
Seewis  312. 
Seez  233. 
— ,  the  46. 
Seezberg,  the  47. 
Safinenfurke,  the  115. 
Sefinlutschine,  the  114. 
Segl  326. 
— ,  Lej  da  326. 
Seglio,  Lago  di  326. 
Segnas  308. 
Segnes  Pass,  the  304. 
Segnes-Spitz,  the  304. 
Segrino,  Lago  del  393. 
Seigne,  Col  de  la  230. 


Sell  on,  Col  de  246. 
Seilon,  Glacier  de  246. 
Seiloz,  la  232. 
Sela,  the  327. 
Selbsanft,  the  293- 
Selden  147. 
Selden,  Im  251. 
Selkingen  140. 
Sella  Pass,  the  333. 
— ,  Piz  333. 
Sella-Lake,  the  82. 
Selun,  the  45. 
Selva  309. 
Selzach  10. 
Senibrancher  234. 
Semen tina,  the  373. 
Semmerikopf,  the  291. 
Samogo  342.  345. 
Seinpach  15. 
— ,  Lake  of  15. 
Sempione  258. 
Semsales  157. 
Sengg  129. 
Senin  s.  Sanetsch. 
Senk,  am  258. 
Sennebrunnen,  the  302. 
Sennkopf,  the  352. 
Sennwald  282. 
Sense,  the  102.  161. 
Sent  340. 
Sentier,  le  175. 
Sentigraben,  the  103. 
Sentis,  the  280. 
— ,  lake  of  280. 
Sepey,  le  155.  156. 
Septimer,  the  322. 
Serbelloni.  Villa  389. 
Seregno  393. 
Serena,  Col  de  239. 
Screnbach,  the  45. 
Sergnement  242. 
Sermenza,  Val  382. 
Serneus  313. 
Sernf,  the  304. 

—  Thai,  the  292.  304. 
Sernio  344. 

Serra  di  Morignone  345. 
Serran  233. 
Serrieres  169. 
Sertig  Pass,  the  316. 
Scrtigthal,  ihe  316. 
Servie/el,  ruin,  near  Mar- 

tinsbruck  340. 
Servoz  213. 
Scsia,  the  382. 

—  Valley,  the  382. 
S^ssame,  Valle  359. 
Scsto  394. 
Sesto-Calende  379. 
Setherbach,  the  307. 
Sevelen  282. 
St.  Severin  243. 


Sewelistock,  the  77. 
Sex  Rouge,  the  155. 
Seyon,  the  166.  167. 
Seyssel  207. 
Sidelhorn,  the  Great  136. 

-,  the  Little  136. 
Siders  254. 

Sieben  Brunnen,  the  151. 
Siebenen  42. 
Siedeln  Alp,  the  138. 
Siedelen  Glacier,  the  138. 
Sicgmund8ried,castle  351 . 
Sielva  349. 
Sierre  254. 
Siggenthal  19. 
Signalhom,  the  314. 
Signalkuppe,  the  (Monte 

Rosa)  262.  273. 
Signau  93. 
Signaye  239. 
Sigriswyl  104. 
Sihl,  the  18.  29.  296  etc. 
Sihl-Brucke,  the  48. 
Silberenstock,  the  295. 
Silberhorn,  the  116. 
Silberpass,  the  274. 
Silenen  77. 
Silly  220. 
Sils  in  the  Upper  Enga- 

dine  326. 

—  in  the  Rhcinthal  357. 

—  Lake  of  326. 
Silva,  farm  328. 
Silvaplana  326. 
Silvio,  Monte  271. 
Silvretta,  the  314.  336. 
Silvretta  Pass,  the  314. 
Simelihorn,  the  122. 
Simelipass,  the  265. 
Simme,  the  102.  151.  153 

— ,  Fall  of  the  151. 
— ,  the  Little  154, 
Simmeneck,  the  153. 
Simmenthal,  the  153. 
Simpeln  258. 
Simplon,  the  258. 

—  Hospice  258. 
Sinestra,  Val  340. 
Singen  20. 
Singine,  the  161. 
Sins  339. 

Sion  253. 

— ,  monastery  of  44. 

— ,  Mont  211. 

Sionne,  the  253. 

Sirnach  37. 

Sisikon  74. 

Sissach  8. 

Sissacher  Fluh,  the  8. 

Sissone,  Monte  325. 

Sitten  253. 


422 


INDEX. 


Sitter,  the  37.  278. 

Siviriez  162. 

Six-Hadun,  the  81. 

Sixt  220. 

Soazza  367. 

Soglio  364. 

Solalex  242. 

Solavers,  ruins  312. 

Soldo,  the  385. 

Solis  Bridge,  the  368. 

Soleurc  or 

Solothurn  11. 

Som  la  Proz  232. 

Someo  374. 

Somma  379. 

Somma  d'Oen  329. 

Sommariva,  Villa  388. 

Sommerau  8. 

Somvix  307. 

— ,  Val  307. 

Sonadon,  Col  de  235.  241. 

— ,  glacier  de  235.  241. 

Sonceboz  7. 

Sonchaud,  Mont  196. 

Sondalo  345. 

Sondrio  344. 

Sonnenberg  (near  Seelis- 

berg)  72. 
Sonnighorn,  the  260. 
Sonzier  158.  197. 
Sopra-ViUa  392. 
Sore-Bois,  Col  de  246. 
Sorenberg  93. 
Sorescia,  the  82. 
Sornico  391. 
Sorvilliers  7. 
Sotto,  Valle  di  345. 
Soyhi^re  6. 
Spannorter,  the  87. 
Spannorter  Joch,  the  77. 
Sparrenhorn,  the  256. 
Speer,  the  45. 
Speicher  277. 
Spescha,  Porta  da  294. 
Spiellau  See,  the  306. 
Spielmatten,  island   106. 
Spiessbach,  the  113. 
Spiessbrticke,  the  268. 
Spiez  104.  145. 
Spiezwyler  145. 
Spin,  Val  336. 
Spinerbad,  the  317. 
Spino  364. 
Spinoel  289. 
Spiringen  296. 
Spissenegg,  the  89. 
Spitalmatt  or 
Spittelmatt,  the  147. 
Spittelmatt-Dala.  the  147. 
Spitzberg,  the  79.  139. 
Spliidatsch,  castle  322. 
Spliigen  361. 


Spliigen  Pass,  the  361. 
Spiil,  the  336. 
Spondalonga  346. 
Spondinig  348. 
Spontiskopfe,  the  289. 
Sprengibriick,  the  79. 
Sprung    in    the    Toggen- 

burg  290. 
Staad  281. 

Stachelberg,  baths  of  293. 
Stafa  42. 

Staffelalp,  the  245. 
StafTeln,  the  78. 
SUffelwald  144. 
Stalden  in  the  Visp  valley 

266. 
Stalden,  the,  on  the  Pra- 

gel  302. 
Staldenbach,  the  102. 
Staldenegg,  the  103. 
Staldenried  266. 
Stalla  322. 
Stallerberg,  the  360. 
Stalusa-Bridge,  the  308. 
Stalvedro  in  the  Grisons 

322. 
— ,  the  Stretto  di  83. 
Stammerspitz,  the  340. 
Stampa  365. 
Stand,  the  88. 
Stans  86. 

Stanserhorn,  the  86. 
Stansstad  89. 
Stanz  s.  Stans. 
— ,  Valley  of  351. 
Stapf,  in  der  262. 
Starkenbach  290. 
Starkenstein  290. 
Starlera,  Piz  360. 
— ,  Val  360. 
Statz,  Lake  of  328. 
Statzer  Alp,  the  333. 
Statzer  Horn,  the  320. 
Staubbach,  the  112. 
Staubende    Briicke ,    the 

80. 
Stauberbach,  the  78. 
Staubi,  the  296. 
Stavelchod,  Val  336. 
Stechelberg  "114. 
Steckborn  22. 
Steg,  zum  144.  255. 
Steig  280. 

Steigli-Egg,  the  54. 
Stein,  am  132. 
— ,  the,  zu  Baden  17. 
— jthe,    in   the   Grisons 

—  on  the  Rhine  21. 
Stein  (Toggcnburg)  290. 
Steinach,  the  38. 


Steinach,  Castle  of  39. 
Steinberg,  the  Lower  114. 
— ,  the  Upper  114. 
Steinen  301. 
Steinen-Alp,  the  115. 
Steinenberg,  the  300. 
Steiner  Aa,  the  300. 
Steineme  Tisch,   the  39. 

281. 
Stein-Glacier,  the  132. 
Steinsberg,  ruins  337. 
Steinthalhom,  the  250. 
Stellihom,  the  264. 
StelU-See.  the  274. 
Stelvio  348. 

—  Pass,  the  347. 
St.  Stephan  150. 
Stiegenlos,  the  12. 
Stierenbach,  the  88. 
Stilfs  348. 

Stille  Bach,  the  340. 
Stockach,  the  22. 
Stockalper  -  Canal ,      the 

206. 
Stock  Glacier,  the  245. 
Stockenthal,  the  102. 
Stockgrat,  the  271. 
Stockgron,  the  294. 
Stockhom,  the  153.  273. 
Stockje,  the  245. 
Stockknubel,  the  273. 
Stoll,  Acqua  di  364. 
Storregg,  the  91. 
Storzle,  the  302. 
Stoss,  the,  near  Bninnen 

73. 

—  near  Gais  278. 
Stossi  77. 
Strada  340. 
Strahlegg,  the  120. 
Strahlegg,  ruins  313. 
Strahlhom,  the  263.  264. 
Strassberg,  ruins  320. 
Strassenhaus  353. 
Strattligen  102.  145. 
Strela  Pass,  the  317. 
Strengen  3ol. 

Stresa  378. 
Stretta,  la  341. 
— ,  Piz  della  341. 
Strich,  zum  262. 
Strimthal,  the  78.  306. 
Strona,  the  260. 
Strubeleckjoch,   the  146. 
Stuben  352. 
Stiicklistock,  the  132. 
Stulsergrat,  the  318. 
Sturvis  358. 
Stutz  89. 

Stiitz,  theKlostersche314. 
Stutz-Alp,  the  314. 
Stutzberg,  the  71. 


INDEX. 


423 


Suberg  8. 

Subigen  9. 

Suchet,  Mont  172. 

Sufers  361. 

Suggithurm,  the  110. 

Sugiez  164. 

Suldbach.  the  145. 

Sulden  348. 

Suldenthal,   the  348. 

Sulden  Glacier,   the  348. 

Suleck,  the  111. 

Sulgen  36. 

St.  Sulpice  170. 

Sul8,  Alp  111. 

Sulsanna  316. 

— ,  the  Val  316.  335. 

Sumvix  307. 

Suna  377. 

Sundlauenen  109. 

Supersax,  Castle  143. 

Surava  318. 

8urenen-£ck,  the  88. 

Surettahorn,  the  361. 

Surlej  327. 

— ,  the  Fuorcla  da  327. 

— ,  Piz  333. 

Surovel,  Alp  333. 

Surpalix,  Val  309. 

8uT  Sass  340. 

Sursee  14. 

Sar  Som  336. 

Susanfe,  Col  de  206. 

Sua  336. 

Siiser  Thai,  the  314. 

Susaskabach,  the  315. 

Susch  336. 

Susten  150.  255. 

Susten-Homer,  the  132. 

Su8ten-Scheideck,the  132. 

Suvers  361. 

Suvretta  Valley,  the  328. 

Suxe  8.  Scheuss. 

Taborberg,  the  286. 
Taconay,  Glac.  de  214.222. 
Tacul,  Glacier  du  217. 
Taesch  8.  Tasch. 
Taffema-Bach,  the  159. 
Tagertschi  94. 
Taglioni,  Villa  391. 
Tagstein,  castle  357. 
Taldfre,   Glacier  de  217. 

218. 
Talent,  the  174. 
Tallieres,  Lac  de  170. 
Talloires  211. 
Tambohom,  the  361. 
Tamina,  the  284.  285. 
Tamins  305. 
Tannenalp,  the  130. 
Tanninges  221. 
Tanzenberg  70. 


Tanzina.  Villa  371. 
Tarasp  338. 

—  Baths  of  338. 
Tardisbriicke,   the  283. 
Tarentaise,  the  233. 
Tartsch  349. 

Tasch  267. 
Tasch  Alp,  the  265. 
Taschhom,  the  271. 
Tasna,  Val  337. 
Tatschbach,  the  88. 
Taubenhom,  the  110. 
Tauffers  349. 
Tavanasa  307. 
Tavannes  7. 
Tavema,  Villa  391. 
Tavetsch  309. 
— ,  Kompe  308. 
— ,  the  Valley  of  308. 
Tecknau  15. 
Teglino,  Val  344. 
Teglio  3U. 
Tellenburg,  the  146. 
Teirs  Chapel  (near  Kiiss- 
nacht)  50. 

—  (near  Biirglen)  76. 

—  (Lake  of  Lucerne)  74. 
Teirs  Platte,  the  74. 
Tendre,  Hont  176. 
Termine,  Val  83. 
Terms,  val  309. 
Terrible,  Mont  6. 
Territ^t  195. 

Terzen  45. 

Tessin,  the,  s.  Ticino. 

— ,    the    Canton    of  84. 

371. 
TSte  Blanche,  the  245. 
Tdte  Noire,  the  224. 

—  de  Rang,  the  168. 
Teufelsbriicke,  the,  in  the 

Beussthal  80. 

—  in  the  Sihlthal  297. 
Teufelsmiinster,  the  73. 
Teufelsstein ,    the ,    near 

Goschenen  79. 

—  on  the  Umer  Loch  80. 
Teufelsthal,  the  319. 
Teufen  279. 
Tgietlems,  chalets  310. 
Tgietschen,  Piz  78.  307. 
Thai  39. 

Thalbach,  the  114. 
Thalibach,  the  263. 
Thaliboden,  the  263. 
Thalwyl  41.  87. 
Thamberg  355. 
Thayingen  20. 
Th^odule  Glacier,  the  268. 
Th^odule  Pass,  the  268. 

Schanze,  the  268. 

Thiele  or  ToUe  172.  173. 


Thiele  or  Zihl,  the  8.  10. 
Thiengen  19. 
Thierachem  102. 
Thierberge,  the  132. 
Thierfehd,  the  294. 
Thonon  203. 
Thorishaus  159. 
Thuille,  the  233. 
— ,  La  233. 
Thun  101. 
— ,  Lake  of  104. 
Thur,  the  37.  289. 
Thurgau,  the  Canton  36. 
Thurm,    the  aussere  and 

innere  264. 
Thurmberg,  the  109. 
Thusis  357. 
Tiarms,  Pass  da  309. 
— ,  Piz  309. 

Yfkl  309, 

Ticino,  the  83. 140. 373  etc. 
Tiefengletscher,  the  138. 
Tiefenau,  bridge  of  14. 
Tiefenkasten  321. 
Tiefenmatten  Glacier  240. 

245. 
Tiefenthal,  the  256. 
Tiefentobel,  the  138.  317. 
Tines,  Les  218.  223. 
Tini^re,  Col  de  la  198. 
Tinizogn  322. 
Tinzen  322. 
Tinzenhom,  the  317. 
Tirano  344. 
— ,  Madonna  di  343. 
Tisch,  the  Steineme  39. 

281. 
Tisch,  Val  319. 
Tisours,  forSt  de  220. 
Titlis,  the  ST.  130. 
Toccia  and 
Toce  8.  Tosa. 
Todi,  the  294. 
Todi,  the  Lesser  308. 
Todtenalp,  the  316. 
Todtensee,  the  136. 
Toggenburg,  the  289. 
Toggia,  Valle  144. 
Toile  8.  ThiMe. 
Toma,  Aua  da  309. 
Toma-See,  the  310. 
Tomlishorn.  the  55. 
Torino  s.  Turin. 
Tomo  391. 

Torre  di  Vezio,  ruin  387. 
Torrent,  Col  de  246. 
Torrentalp,  the  246. 
Torren thorn,  the  149. 
Torrigia  390. 
Torrone,  Pizzo  325. 
Torto,  Val  314.  374. 
Tosa,  the  143. 261. 377  etc. 


424 


INDEX. 


Tosa,  Falls  of  the  lU. 
Tosens  351. 
Toss,  the  28.  96. 
Totzen,  the  Rothe  54. 
Tounot,  the  249. 
Tour  169.  195.  227. 
— ,  Glacier  du  216.  227. 

—  d'Ay,  la  156.  158. 

—  de  BouBsine  241. 

—  de  Duin  200. 

—  de  Mayen  193. 

—  de  Peilz,  La  194. 

—  Salli^re,  la  206. 
Tourbillon,  castle  253. 
Touraanche,  Val  2G8. 
Tourae,  La  169. 
Toumeresse,  the  154. 
Tournette,  Mont  210. 
Tour-Ronde  201.  222. 
Tourtemagne  255. 
— ,  Glacier  de  250. 

—  Valley  255. 
Trachsellauinen  114. 
Tracht  126. 
Trafoi  318. 

Bach,  the  348. 

—  Glaciers,  the  348. 
Trais  fluors  329. 
Trasquora  141.  259. 
Travaglia,  Val  376. 
Travers  170. 

— ,  Val  de  170. 
Treib  72. 

Trelat@te,  Glacier  de  229. 
Tr^lechamp  223. 
Tr^lex  189. 
Trgme,  the  157. 
Tremezzina,  the  390. 
Tremezzo  389. 
Tremoggia,  Piz  326. 
Tremola,  Val  83. 
Tremorgio.  Lago  374. 
Trepalle  345. 
Tresa,  the  375.  376. 
Tresa,  Ponte  381. 
Tresenda  344. 
Tresero,  Piz  346. 
Tribschen  89. 
Tricot,  Col  du  215. 
Trient  224.  226. 
— ,  the  201.  224. 
— ,  Col  de  224. 
— ,  Glacier  de  225. 
— ,  Gorge  du  201. 
Tri^ve,  the  226. 
Trift  Glacier,  the  248. 
Trifthorn,  the  248. 
Triftjoch,  the  248. 
Trift  Valley  131. 
Trins  305. 

Trinserhom,  the  357. 
Triolet,  Glacier  du  232. 


St.  Triphon,  OUon  199. 
Triquent  225. 
Trisanna,  the  351. 
Tritthom,  the  82. 
Trogen  277. 
Troisrods  172. 
Troistorrents  206. 
Trons  907. 
Trotti,  Villa  390. 
Trouma  du  Bouc,  the  241. 
Trub  93. 
Triibbach  282. 
Trubpts,  les  214. 
Trubschachen  93. 
Triibsee,  the  131. 
Trubsee-Alp,  the  88.  131. 
Trumlenbach,  the  115. 
Trupchum,  Val  335. 
Truttlisberg,  the  151. 
Tschafel  2». 
Tschamut  309. 
Tschanuff,  ruins  340. 
Tschappina  358. 
Tschierva,  Piz  334. 
Tschingel,  Cima  di  364. 
Tschingelalp,  the  47.  115. 
Tschingel    Glacier ,    the 

114.  147.  256. 
Tschingelhorner,  the  114 
Tschingel  Spitz,  the  304. 
Tschingeltritt,  the  147. 
Tschuepis  151. 
Tschuggen  117.  315. 
Tschupe  311. 
Tubach  39. 

Tuckettspitze,  the  348. 
Tumbif,  Piz  307, 
Tumein  305. 
Tummenen  255. 
TnnU,  la  342. 
Tuoi,  Val  314.  337. 
Tuors,  Val  317. 
Turbach  Valley,  the  151. 
Turgi  17.  19. 
Turin  375. 
Turl,  Lake  of  34. 
Turlo,  Col  del  383. 
Turr,    La-,  castle  359. 
Turtig  256. 
Turtman  256. 
Tusch,  Val-  47. 
Twann  10. 
Twiiriberg,  the  68. 
Tzeudet,  Glacier  235. 


Uccello,  Piz  361. 
Ueberlingen  23. 
Ueberlinger  See.  the  23. 
Ueberm  Bach  314. 
Uechtland,  the  160. 
Uechtsee,  the  161. 


Ueli  Alp,  the  294. 
Uerikon  42. 

Uertsch,  Piz  318. 320.  335 
Ueschinen  Valley    147. 
Uetliberg.  the  33. 
Uetikon  41. 
Uflem,  Val  311. 
— ,  Piz  deir  310. 
Ufnau,  island  of  42. 
Ugine  210. 
Uina,  Val  340. 
Ulrichen  140. 
Ulrichshorn,  the  265. 
Umbrail  Pass,  the  347. 
Umbrail,  Piz  347. 
Unspunnen,  ruins  108. 
Unter-Aar  Glacier  135. 
Unter-Albis  35. 
Unteralp,  the  83. 
Untere  Buchberg,  the  44. 
Untereggen  39. 
Unterhorn,  the  305. 
Unter-Laret  314. 
Unter-Lavtina,  Alp  47. 
Unter-Hutten  357. 
Unterschachen  296. 
Untersee,  the  21. 
Unterseen  107. 
Unter-Solis  357. 
Unter-Spiringen  296. 
Unterstalden,  the  103. 
Unterterzen  46. 
Unterwald  144. 
Uomo,  Piz  deir  82. 
Uomo-Pass,  the  83.    311. 
Urathshorner,  the  132. 
Urbachthal,  the  133. 
Urdorf  34. 
Urezas,  Val  337. 
Urezza,  Val  336. 
Urgbach,  the  351. 
Uri  s.  Altorf. 
— ,  the  canton  76. 
— ,  Lake  of  73. 

Bothstock,  the  75. 

Urlichen  140. 
Urnasch  278. 
Urnenalp,  the  133. 
Umer  Boden,  the  295. 
—  Loch,  the  80. 
Ste.  Ursanne  169. 
Urschai,  Val  337. 
Urseren  80. 
— ,  Valley  of  80.  139. 
Useigne  244. 
Usses,  the  211. 
Uster  43. 
Uttigen  101. 
Uttwyl  25. 
Uznach  44. 
Uzwyl,  Ober-  37. 


INDEX. 


4i.. 


1 


Vadred,  Piz  314.  316. 

Vadura  286. 

Vadu*  282. 

Val  Dobbia,  Col  di  383. 

—  d'llliez  206. 

—  Bhein  366. 

—  Tournancbe  268. 

—  Tiisch.  Alp  47. 

—  Val  309. 
Vala,  the  309. 
Valais,  the  Canton  253. 
Valangin  168. 
Valatscha  337. 
Valbella  368. 
Valcava  336. 
Valendas  305. 
Valens  286. 

St.  Valentin  auf  der  Heide 

349. 
Valeria,  castle  253. 
Vallatsch  306. 
Valletta-Pass,  the  360. 
Valine  des  Morts  236. 
Vallengin  168. 
Vallette  234. 
Vallettes,  les  204. 
Vallorbe  176. 
Valmaggia  382. 
Valmara,  the  375. 
Valorcine  223. 
Valpellina  241.  246. 
— ,  Col  de  240. 
Vals  am  Platz  306. 
Valsainte  153. 
Valser  Berg,  the  306. 

—  Thai,  the  306. 
Valserine,  the  207. 
Valsorey ,    Aiguilles    de 

235. 
— ,  Glacier  de  235. 
— ,  Valine  de  236. 
Valtellina,  the  343. 
Valtomenche  268. 
Val  Torta  314. 
Valtravaglia  376. 
Vandans  352. 
Van  d^en  haut  206. 
Vanescha  Valley  306. 
Vanin,  Colle  di  141. 
Vanzone  261. 
Varallo  382. 
Varemb^  185. 
Varen  150.  254. 
Varenna  387. 
Varens,  Aig.  de  210.  213. 
Varese  376. 
— ,  Lago  di  370. 
Varia,  Val  259. 
Varrone,  the  387. 
Varzo  259. 
Vaaalli.  Villa  371. 
Vason  286. 


Vattis  286. 
Vatz,  Lake  of  321. 
Vaud  8.  Waadt. 
Vauderens  162. 
Vaulion  176. 
— ,  Dent  de  176. 
Vaulruz  157.  162. 
Vaux,  La  192.  198. 
Vauxmarcus,  castle   173. 
Vazerol  318.  321. 
Veaux,  les  241. 
Vedeggio.  the  368. 
Vedro,  Val  di  259. 
Veisivi,  Dent««  de  244. 245. 
St.  Veitskapf.  the  353. 
Velan,  Mont  235. 
Veltlin,  s.  Vatellina. 
Venddme  190. 
Vennes,  castle  192. 
Venoge,  the  174. 
Vereina  Pass,  the  314. 
St.  Verena,  Hermitage  13. 
St.  Verenathal,  the  13. 
Vergiate  379. 
Verlome  Loch,  the  358. 
Vernagt  Glacier  349. 
Vcrnayaz  201. 
Vemela  Pass,  the  314. 
Vernex  195.  198. 
Verolliaz,  Chap,  de  201. 
Verona,  Piz  di  342. 
Verra  Pass,  the  274. 
Verrifcres,  les  170. 
Versam  305. 
Versegere  241. 
Vers  r:^glise  156. 
Versoix,  189. 
Verzasca,  Bridge  of  367. 

373. 
Vesenaz  186. 
Vespran  365. 
Vdtroz  243.  263. 
Vevay  193. 

Veveyse,  the  193.  198. 
Vex  244. 
Veyrier  186. 
Veytaux  196.  198. 
Vezia  369. 

Vezio,  Torre  di,  ruin  387. 
Via  Mala,  the  358. 
Vico  Borgo  370.  391. 
Vicosoprano  365. 
Video,  Monte  347. 
Vifege  255. 
— ,  the  206. 
Vierwaldstatter-See  69. 
Viesch  141. 

Viescher-Horner,  the  141. 
—    Glacier ,    the ,    near 

Grindelwald  119. 

,  the  Walliser  136 

Viescher  Joch,  the  120. 


Vigens  306. 

Vigezzo  Valley,  the  374. 
Vigoni,  Villa  388. 
Villa  near  Airolo  140. 

,  Val   Bregaglia  364. 
— ,  Domo  d'Ossola  260. 
— ,  Vrinthal  306. 
Villard  199. 
Villars  175. 
Villaz-  St.  Pierre  161. 
Ville  d^  Issert  232. 
Villefranche  269. 
Villeneuve  in  the  Aosta- 

Valley  233. 

—  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva 
196. 

Villette,  la  228. 
Villy,  castle  212. 
Vinei,  Pizzo  di  82. 
Vintschgau,  the  349. 
Viola,  Val  342. 

,  Pass  342. 

Vira  375. 
Visgnola  391. 
Visp  s.  Vispach. 
-,  the  256.  266.  271. 
— ,  the  Gorner  266. 
— ,  the  Saaser  263.  266. 
Vispach  255. 
Vissoye  247. 
Vitelli,  Val  346. 
S.  Vittore  368. 
Vitzpau  71. 
Viviers,  grotto  204. 
Vivis  s.  Vevay. 
Vocca  382. 
Vogelberg.  the  366. 
Voglans  208. 
Vciglisegg  280. 
Vogna,  Val  383. 
Vogogna  260. 
Vogtiruhe,  the  108. 
Voirons,  the  186. 
Vollensteg,  the  255. 
Volpers  338. 
Voralpthal,  the  79. 
Vorarlberg,  the  354. 
Vorauen  302. 
Vorburg,  castle  of  6. 
Vorder-Aar  Glacier  133. 

—  -Bhein ,  309.  356. 

Waggithal  43. 

Vouache,  Mont  207.  211. 
Vougy  213. 

Vouvry  205. 
Voza,  Col  de  228. 
Vrenelisgartli,  the  302. 
Vrin  306. 
Vrinthal,  the  306. 
Vufllens,  castle  190. 
Vuibez,   Glacier  de  245. 
246. 


426 


IN 


T» 


Vuibet  8erra  de  246. 
VuidtemenH  162. 
Vully,  Mont  164. 
Vulpera  338. 


Wabern  99. 
Wadenswyl  41. 
Wagenhausen  21. 
Wagenliicke,  the  281. 
Waggis  70. 
Waggithal,  the  42. 
Wagneren  ravine,  the  108. 
Walchwyl  49. 
Wald  on  the  Arlberg  362. 

—  on  the  Bachtel  43. 

—  near  Trogen  277. 
Waldau,  Lun.  Asylum  98, 
Waldegg  110. 
Wald-Emme,  the  93. 
Waldhauser,  the  306. 
Waldi  36. 

Waldisbalm,  grotto  71. 
Waldnacht-Alp,  the  88. 
Waldnachtbach,  the  88. 
Waldshut  19. 
Waldstadt  278. 
Wallen-8ee,  the  45. 
WallensUdt  46. 

— ,  Lake  of  45. 
Wallenstocke,  the  87. 
Wallgau,  the  353. 
Wallisbachlen  143. 
Wallisellen  36.  43." 
Walser  Thai,  the  363. 
Waltensburg  307. 
Walzenhauaen  39. 
Waldfluh,  the  245. 
Wand   Glacier,   tJie  240. 

264. 
Wangen  21. 
Wangi  301. 
Wannehorn,  the  141. 
Wartau,  castle  282. 
Wartbufg,  the  9. 
— ,  Neu-,  ruins  9. 
Wartegg,  castle  281. 
Wartensee,  castle  in  the 

Rheinthal  281. 

—  near  Sempach  15. 
Wartenstein,  ruins  286. 
Wasen  79. 
Wasseralp,  the  138. 
Wasserfluh,  the  16. 
Wattingen  79. 
Wattwyl  290. 
Wauwyl  14. 
Wehrastrasse,  the  19. 
Weid,  the  29. 
Weinburg,  castle  39.  281 
Weinfclden  36. 
Weingarten,  castle  143. 


Weissb  4  -),  near  In 

terlal^l* 

—  on  the  bitaplon  257. 
Weissbad,  the  278. 
Weisse  Frau,  the  147. 
Weisse  Knott,  the  348. 
Weissenau,  ruins  106. 
Weissenburg  153. 

— ,  Baths  of  153. 
Weissenstein,  the,  in  the 
Orisons  319. 

—  near  Soleure  12. 
Weissfluh,  the  316. 
Weissgletscher,  the  134. 
Weissgrat,  the  271. 
Weisshom,  the,  near  the 

Rawyl  152. 

—  near  Zermatt  139.  250. 
267. 

—J  Fluela  Pass  315. 
Wieisskugel,  the  348. 
Weissmies,  the  265. 
Weisstannen  47. 
Weisstannen  -  Thai,    the 

47.  303.  304. 
Weissthor,   the  Old  262. 
— ,  the  New  262. 264.  274. 
Weitenalpstock,   the  77. 

308 
Wellikom,  the  124. 
Wenden,  Glacier  of  132. 
Wendenstocke,   the   132. 
Wengen  116. 
Wengem-Alp,  the  116. 

Scheideck  117. 

Wengi,  baths  of  35. 
Wengistein,  the  13. 
Wenslingen  15. 
Werdenbere  291. 

-,  castle  %2. 
Wergisthalbach,  the  118. 
Werthenstein,convent  93. 
Wesemlin,  monast.  51. 
Wesen  45. 

Wetterhom,  the  123. 
Wetterlimmi,  the  133. 
Wetterlucke,  the  250. 
Wettingen  17. 
Wetzikon  43. 
Wetzsteinhom,  the  152. 
Wicki  79. 

Widderfeld,  the  54.  87. 
Widderfeld-Alp,  the  121. 
Widderstein,  the  355. 
Widderstein-Furkel,  the 

46. 
Wienachter-Eck,  the  276. 

—  Quarries  276. 
Wiesberg,  ruin  361. 
Wiesendangen  36. 
Wiesen  317. 
Wiggis,  the  302. 


Wilchingea  20. 
Wildegg  16. 

Wildenstein,  castle  16. 
Wilderswyl  111. 
Wildgerst,  the  122. 
Wildhaus  260. 
Wildhom,  the  152. 
Wildkirchli,  the  279. 
Wildstrubel,  the  148. 151. 
Wimmis  102. 
Windgelle,  the  77. 
Windisch  17. 
Winkel  89. 
Winkelmatten  270. 
Winkeln  37.  103. 
Winterhom,  the  83. 
Winterthur  36. 
Witholz,  the  39. 
Wohlhausen  93. 
Wolfenschiessen  87. 
Wolfhalden  277. 
Wolfsberg  22. 
Wolkenstein  21. 
Wollerau  296. 
Wollishofen  41. 
Worb  94. 
Worms  345. 

Wormser  Joch,  the  347. 
Worth,  Schlosscben  27. 
Wiilflingen,  B.  Hoch-  36. 
Wiilpelsberg,  the  16. 
Wunderbrunnen,  the  130. 
Wurmapach,  convent  44. 
WuUch,  the  19. 
Wydenbach  48. 
Wyhlen  18. 
Wyl  37. 
Wyler  78. 
Wylerfeld,  the  14. 
Wylerhom,  the  92. 
Wynigen  13. 
Wyssenbach  93. 
Wytenstein,  the  73. 

Yberg,  ruins  290. 
Yverdon  172. 
Yvoire  203. 
Yvonand  172. 
Yvorne  198. 
Ywerberhomer,  the  82. 

Za,  Aiguille  de  la  246. 
Zadrell,  Fuorcla  314. 
Zafragia  Tobel,  the  307. 
Zagen  Glacier,  the  147. 
Zahringen-Kyburg,  castle 

101. 
Zail,  Val  336. 
Zansler,  the  281. 
Zapport  Glacier,  the  366. 
Zapportgrat,  the  306. 
Zapporthorn,  the  361. 


J 


INDEX. 


427 


^ 


Zaaenberg  119. 
Ziusenberghoni,   the  119. 
Zavreila  306. 
Zaziwyl  93. 
Zenna  375. 
Zerbaziere  226. 
Zermatt  269. 
Zernetz  336. 
Zerpletschen  255. 
Zertannen  262. 
Ziegelbriicke  44. 
Zignau  307. 
Zihl,  the  8.  10. 
—  Bridge,  the  163. 
Zillis  359. 

Zimmerberg,  the  48. 
Zimmerwald  99. 
Zinal  247. 
— ,  Col  de  248. 
— ,  Glacier  de  247. 
— ,  Pic  de  247. 


Zinal,  Val  de  247. 
Zinkenstocke,  the  135. 
Zitail  322. 
Zizers  283. 
Zmeiden  249. 
Z'Muttbach,    the    268. 

271. 
Z'Mutt  Glacier,   the  240. 

245.  274. 
Zofingen  14. 
ZoUbriicke,  lower  283. 
— ,  the  upper  312. 
Zollikofen  8.  14. 
ZoUikon  41. 
Zorten  321. 
Zozanne,  Lac  246. 
Zuchwyl  12. 
Zug  48. 

— ,  Lake  of  49. 
Zuge,  the  317. 
Zuger  Berg,  the  49. 


Zum  Dorf  139. 
Zum  See  268. 
Zum  Steg  144.  255. 
Zumsteinspitze  262.  273. 
Zum  Strich  262. 
Zupo,  Piz  334. 
Zura  Valley,  the  311. 
Zurich  28. 
— ,  Lake  of  40. 
Zustoll,  the  45. 
Zuz  335. 

Zweiliitschinen  111. 
Zweisimmen  154. 
Zwerglocher,  the  109. 
Zwiesel  Alp,  the  281. 
Zwillinge,  the  272. 
Zwillingspass,  the  274. 
Zwingen,  Castle  of  6. 
Zwischberger   Pass ,   the 

259. 
Zwitzer  Egg,  the  151. 


Leipzig :  Printed  by  Breitkopf  &  Hartel. 


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