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Full text of "Switzerland and the adjacent portions of Italy, Savoy, and the Tyrol : handbook for travellers"

BvEDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. 

GREAT BRITAIN, with 14 Maps and 24 Plans. 1887. lOmarks. 
LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS, with 3 Maps and 15 Plans. 

Seventh Edition. 1889. * 6 marks. 

BELGIUM AND HOLLAND, with 12 Maps and 20 Plans. 

Kinth Edition. 1888. ' 6 marks. 

THE RHINE feom Rotterdam to Constance (the Seven 

Mountains, Moselle, Voloanic Eifel, Vosges Mts., Black Forest, 
etc.), with 36 Maps and 22 Plans. Eleventh Edition. 1889. 6 marks. 

NORTHERN GERMANY, with 35 Maps and 54 Plans. 

Tenth Edition. 1890. 8 marks. 

SOUTHERN GERMANY and AUSTRIA, including Hun- 
gary AND Transylvania, with 14 Maps and 30 Plans. 

Sixth Edition. 1887. 7 marks. 

THE EASTERN ALPS, including the Bavarian High- 
lands, Tyrol, SaLZKAMMERCUT, etc. with 34 Maps, 
12 Plans, and 7 Panoramas. Sixth V'uition. 1888. 8 marks. 

GREECE, with 6 Maps, 14 Plan? and a Panorama of Athens. 
1889. 10 marks. 

NORTHERN ITALY, including Florence and the Is- 
land of Corsica, andRouti..-) toItalxthkough Fkanoe, Switzer- 
land, etc., with 19 Maps and 33 Plans. Eighth Edition. 1889. 6 marks. 

CENTRAL ITALY and ROME, with 10 Maps, 31 Plans, a 

Panorama of Rome and ;i \ievv of the Forum rtumannm. Tenth 
Edition. 1890. 6 marks. 

SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, and Excursions to the 
LiPARi Islands, Tunis (Cakthage), Sardinia, Malta, and 

Corfu, with 26 Maps and 10 Plans. Tenth Edition. 1890. 6 marks. 

NORWAY AND SWEDEN, with 23 Maps and 13 Plans. Fourth 

Edition. 1869. 9 marks. 

PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS, with Routes from London 

TO Paris. With 9 Maps and 30 Plans. Ninth Edition. 1888. 6 marks. 

NORTHERN FRANCE, with U Maps and 25 Plans. 1889.- 

7 marks. 

SWITZERLAND, and the adjacent Parts of Italy, 

Savoy, and the Tyrol, with 38 Maps, llPlans,and 11 Panoramas. 
Thirteenth Edition. 1889. 8 marks. 

LOWER EGYPT, with the Fayum and the Peninsula of 

Sinai, with 16 Maps, so Plans, 7 Views, and 76 Vignettes. Second 
Edition. 1885. IB marks. 

PALESTINE AND SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plans, a Pano- 
rama of Jerusalem, and 10 Views. 187G. 20 marks. 

CONVERSATION DICTIONARY in four languages: Eng- 

lish, French, Oermau, Italian. 3 marks. 

THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, in 

Rnolish, Gebhan, French, and Italian. 3 marks. 




k^l'J 



SWITZERLAND. 



MONEY TABLE. 

(Comp. p. xvii.) 
Approximate Equivalents. 



American 


English 




Swiss 


Herman 


Austrian 


Money 




Money 




Money 


Money 


Monev 

■ 


Doll. 


Cts. 


L. 


S. 


D. 


Fr. 


Cent. 


Jl. 


Pf. 


Fl. 


Kv. 





1 








•|2 





5 


. 


4 





2 





2'|2 








1'4 





12'|2 


— 


10 


— 


5 





5 








2' 2 





25 


— 


20 


— 


10 





10 








5 





50 


— 


40 


— 


20 


— 


12'|.2 


— 


— 


6'|4 


— 


62' |2 


— 


50 


— 


25 





20 


— 


— 


93|, 


1 


— 


— 


80 


— 


40 


__ 


25 


— 


1 




1 


25 


1 


— 


— 


50 


__ 


50 





2 





2 


50 





— 


1 


._ 





75 





3 





3 


75 


3 


— 


I 


5(.) 


1 








4 





5 





4 


— 


2 




1 


25 





5 





6 


25 


5 


— 


■) 


50 


1 


50 





6 





7 


50 


6 


— 


3 


— 


1 


75 





7 





8 


75 


7 





3 


50 


2 








8 





10 





8 





4 




2 


25 


— 


9 


— 


11 


25 


9 


— 


4 


50 


2 


50 


— 


10 





12 


50 


10 


— 


5 


— 


3 


— 





12 





15 





12 


— 


6 


— 


4 








16 





20 





16 


— 


8 


— 


5 


— 


1 


— 





25 





20 





10 


— 


25 





5 


— 





125 





100 





50 


— 


125 


— 


25 


— 


— 


625 


— 


500 


— 


250 


— 



SWITZERLAND 



AND THE ADJACENT I'ORTIONS OF 

ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 



K. BAEDEKER 



With 3S Maps, 11 Plans, and 11 Panokamas 



THIRTEENTH EDITION 



LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. 
LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W, 

1889 

All nights lieserved 



'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, 
And specially let this be thy prayere 
Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, 
Thee to correct in any part or all.' 



3o 



ARTS 

PRIEFACE. ^^3 



Ihe object of the Handbook ibr Switzerland is to 
supply the traveller with all needful information, to point 
out the most interesting places and the best way of reach- 
ing them , to render him comparatively independent of 
the services of guides and others, and thus to enable him 
thoroughly to enjoy his tour in this magnificent country. 

With improved facilities for travel, the number of visi- 
tors to Switzerland has greatly increased of late years, 
and mountaineering ambition has been proportionally 
stimulated. Summits once deemed well-nigh inaccessible 
are now scaled annually by travellers from all parts of the 
world. The achievements of the modern Alpine clubs have 
dimmed the memory of De Saussure, Auldjo, and the other 
pioneers of these icy regions, and even ladies now fre- 
quently vie with the stronger sex in their deeds of daring. 

The Handbook is based on the Editor's personal ac- 
quaintance with the places described , most of which he 
has carefully and repeatedly explored. This edition, which 
corresponds with the twenty -third German edition, has 
been thoroughly revised, and furnished with the latest in- 
formation obtainable. Its contents are divided into Seven 
Sections (I. N. Switzerland; H. Lake of Lucerne and 
Environs, and St. Gotthard ; HL Bernese Oberland; IV. 
W. Switzerland, Lake of Geneva, Lower Rhone Valley ; 

V. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps; 

VI. S.E. Switzerland, Grisons ; VII. Lakes of N. Italy), 
each of which may be separately removed from the book 
by the mountaineer or pedestrian who desires to minimise 
the bulk of his luggage. To each section is prefixed a, 
list of the routes it contains, so that each forms an ap- 
proximately complete volume apart from the general table 
of contents or the general index. 

The Editor will highly appreciate any corrections or 
suggestions with wliich travellers may favour him. Tlie in- 



vi PREFACE. 

formation aU-eady received from numerous correspondents, 
which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many instances 
proved most serviceable. 

The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been 
bestowed, are based on the Topographical Atlas of Switzer- 
land and on Du/ours Map (p. xxiii) , and revised with the 
aid of other recent authorities . To the present edition are 
added new maps of the Pilatus and of the valleys of Or- 
mont; besides new plans of the towns of Bale, Zurich, 
Lucerne, Geneva, and Lugano. 

Time Tables. The best Swiss publications are the 
'Kurshiicher (time-tables) of Krilsi of Bale and Biirkli of 
Zurich (50 c. each), sold at most of the railway-stations. 

Heights are given in English feet (I Engl. ft. = 
0.3048 metre; 1 metre =3.281 Engl, ft., or about 3 ft. 
31/3 in.). — Distances on high-roads and railways are 
given in English miles ; while those on bridle-paths and 
mountain-routes are expressed by the time which they 
usually take. The number of miles at the beginning of a 
paragraph denotes the distance from the starting-point, 
while the distances from place to place are generally 
stated within brackets ; but on railway-routes the mileage 
is always reckoned from the starting-point. 

Hotels. Besides the first-class hotels, the Handbook 
mentions a number of the more modest inns also. The 
usual charges are stated in accordance with the Editor's 
own experience , or from the bills furnished to him by 
travellers. Hotel-charges, like carriage-fares and fees to 
guides, generally have an upward tendency, but an ap- 
proximate statement of these items will enable the trav- 
eller to form an estimate of his probable expenditure. 

To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards 
travellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, 
and that advertisements of every kind are strictly exclud- 
ed from his Handbooks. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

I. Plan of Tour, etc xii 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money xvii 

III. Hotels and Pensions xvli 

IV. Passports. Custom House xix 

V. Walking Tours xix 

VI. Maps xxi 

VII. Guides xxii 

VIII. Carriages and Horses xxiii 

IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph xxiii 

X. Railways xxv 

XI. History. Statistics xxvi 

jj^^^jjg I. Northern Switzerland. 

1. Bale 1 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Miinsterthal 9 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure 12 

4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenbuchsee 16 

5. From Bale to Ziirich 17 

6. From Bale to Lucerne 20 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg 21 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 22 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 25 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance . 27 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Ziirich) . 30 

12. From SchafThausen to Ziirich 31 

13. Ziirich and the Uetliherg 32 

14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and Walenstadt 39 

15. From Ziirich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen ... 46 

16. From Ziirich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . . . 47 

17. The Canton of Appenzell .^l 

18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the Valley 

of the Rhine . . : 58 

19. From Ziirich to Glarus and Linththal 59 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 03 

21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 65 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal 67 

II. Lake of Lucerne and Environs. The St. Gotthard. 

23. From Ziirich to Zug and Lucerne 70 

24. Lucerne 73 

25. Lake of Lucerne 77 



viii CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

26. The Rigi ' 84 

27. From lincerno to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus 91 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 94 

29. From Wiideiiswyl to Eiiisicdelii, Scliwyz, and Brunnen . 96 

30. From Lucerne to Belliiizona. St. Gotthard Railway . . 99 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . . 108 

32. The Maderaner Thai 112 

33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . . 114 

34. From Lucerne to Altdorf by Stans and Engelberg. The 
Surenen Pass 116 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meirlngen and Brienz 
(Interlaken) 120 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 123 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 125 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal .... 127 

39. From Lucerne to Lenzhurg (Aarau). The 'Seethal' 
Railway 129 

III. The Bernese Oberland. 

40. Bern 133 

41. From Bern to Thun 139 

42. The Niesen 141 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. St. Beatenherg 143 

44. Interlaken and Environs 145 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach .... 151 

46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Schmadribach 153 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp 157 

48. The Faulhorn 163 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlani. 
Falls of the Reichenbach 165 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz .... 168 

51. The Giessbach 170 

52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel .... 171 

53. From [Thun) Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 175 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass 182 

55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 183 

56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal .... 186 

IV. Western Switzerland. Lake of Geneva. Lower Valley of the 
Rhone. 

57. From Bern to Neuchatel 190 

58. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle. .... 193 

59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val de Travers 195 

00. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 197 

61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey") 199 

02. From Lausanne to Payernc and Lyss 202 

63. From Lausanne to Vallorhe and Pontarlier 204 



CONTENTS. ix 

Route Page 

64. Geneva and Environs 205 

65. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and Villeneuve. 
La.\ie o{ Gene\A (North Bank) 216 

66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon 232 

67. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 237 

68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 234 

69. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of Geneva 
(South Bank). Val d'llliez 239 

v. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps. 

70 From Geneva via Cnioz ami Aix-les-Baiiis to C'hanibery, 

and hack via Annecy 246 

71. From Geneva to Chamonix 253 

72. Chamonix and Environs 257 

73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire , or to 
Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan 264 

74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme 268 

75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bonhomme 

and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc .... 270 

70. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 275 

77. The Graian Alps 280 

78. From Martigny to Aosta over the Great St. Bernard . . 285 

79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val de 
Bagnes 291 

80. From Martigny over the iSimplon to Novara or to the 
Lago Maggiore 293 

81. From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. The Eggishorn . . . 302 

82. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Falls of the 
Tosa. Val Formazza 30G 

83. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and Turtmann 
(Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . . . i'Oi) 

84. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the Theodule Pass to 
Chatillon 319 

85. Zermatt and Environs 322 

86. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over the Moro Pass 

to Saas and Visp 328 

87. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa .... 333 

VI. S.E. Switzerland. The Grisons. 

88. From Rorschach to Coire 339 

89. Ragatz and Pfiifers 341 

90. Coire 845 

91. From Landquart to Schuls over the Fliiela Pass. Priitigau 347 

92. From Davos to Coire via Lenz (Landwasser Route). . . . 352 

93. From Coire to Davos through the Schanfiggthal. Arosa . 355 

94. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp 357 



X CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

95. From Disentis to Biasca. The Lukmanier 865 

96. From Coire to Splugen. Via Mala 367 

97. From Splugen to the Lake of Como 373 

98. From Splugen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 375 

99. From Coire to the Engadine over the Albula Pass . . . 378 

100. From Coire to the Engadine over the Julier 380 

101. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to Samaden . . . 384 

102. Pontresina and Environs 392 

103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine .... 399 

104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano and through 

the Valtellina to Colico 405 

105. From the Maloja to Chiavenna. Val Bregaglia .... 410 

106. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 412 

107. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg 417 

VII. The Italian Lakes. 

108. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como (Milan) .... 421 

109. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Val Maggia 426 

110. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands 430 

111. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo 436 

1 12. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the Lake 

of Como. Lake of Lugano 440 

113. The Lake of Como 442 

114. From Como to Milan 450 

Index 454 



List of Maps. 

(Comp. Index Map after the Oeneral Index.) 

i. DlSTEIUT BETWEEN SciIAFFHAUSEN ASD CoNSTANCE : RR. 8, i), II, 12, 

15, 16 ; between pp. 24, 25. 

2. Environs op Schaffhausen : RR. 8, 9, 12; p. 24. 

3. Lake of Constance: RR. 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 107 •, between pp. 28, 2'J. 

4. Lakes of Zurich and Zug : RR. 13, 14, 15, 23, 29; between pp. 38, 39. 

5. Canton of Appenzell : RR. 14, 16, 17, 18, 88, 107 ; between pp. 52, 53. 

6. Canton of Glarus: RR. 14, 19-22; between pp. 60, 61. 

7. ToDi District : RR. 19, 20, 32, 94 ; between pp. 62, 63. 

8. Lake of Lucerne : RR. 6, 23-31, 34, 35 ; between pp. 76, 77. 

9. PiLATUS: R. 27; p. 77. 

10. RiGi: RR. 25, 26, 28; between pp. 84, 85. 

11. Environs of the St. Gotthard: RR. 30-34, 36, 37, 52, 81, 94; be- 
tween pp. 102, 103. 

12. Loop-Tunnels of the St. Gotthard Railway: R. 30; p. 103. 

13. Trift District: RR. 31, 33, 37, 52, 79; between pp. 108, 109. 

14. Environs of Engelberg: RR. 30, 34-37; between pp. 118, 119. 

15. Bernese Uberland: RR. 41-50, 53, 56; between pp. 144, 145. 

16. Environs of Interlaken: R. 44; p. 145. 

17. Environs of Grinuelwald: RR. 44-50, 52; between pp. 160, 161. 

18. Environs of Kandersteg : RR. 46, 53-55; between pp. 178, 179. 

19. Lake op Geneva: RR. 61, 64-67, 69; between pp. 216, 217. 

20. Vallevs of Ormunt and their neighbourhood: RR. 55, 65, 66, 68; 
between pp. 2.32, 233. 



LIST OF MAPS. xi 

21. Environs of Chamonix, Sixt, and Couemateuu: RK. 69,71-75; lic- 
tween pp. 262, 253. 

22. Mont Blanc District: RE. 71-75; between pp. 253,259. 

23. Environs of the Geeat St. Bernard, from Martigny to Aosta : RR. 76, 
78-80, 83; between pp. 284, 285. 

24. Lower Valley of the Rhone, from the Lake of Geneva to the Lotschcn- 
Thai : RR. 53-55, 65-69, 80, 83 ; between pp. 232, 233. 

25. The Upper Vaxais : RR. 80-82, 84 ; between pp. 298, 299. 

26. Aletsch District: RR. 81, 47, 52; between pp. 304, 305. 

27. Alps of Canton Valais (from Evolena to Vogogna): RR. 80, 83 87; 
between pp. 303, 309. 

28. Environs of Zermatt: RR. 83-87; between pp. 322, 323. 

29. Environs of Ragatz, the Pratigad and Montavon: RR. 88, 89, 91, 
107; between pp. 344, 345. 

30. Voeder-Rheinthal : RR. 94-96, 100; between pp. 356, 357. 

31. District from the Lukmaniee to the Maloja : RR. 30, 95, 97, 98, 100, 
105 ; between pp. 372, 373. 

32. The Engadine and Valtellina : RR. 91-93, 99-106; between pp. 384, 335. 

33. Environs of Pontkesina: RR. 101, 102, 104; between pp. 392, 393. 

34. The Lower Engadine : RR. 91-93, 99, 100, 103, 106; between pp. 400, 401. 

35. Lago Maggiore: RR. 80, 110-112; between pp. 430, 431. 

36. Lakes of Como and Ldgano : RR. 30, 98, 108, 112, 113 ; between pp. 442, 
443. 

37. General Map of Switzerland) ^^ 

38. Key Map of Switzerland ) 



Panoramas and Views. 

1. From the Rigi-Kulm, between pp. 88, 89. 

2. From the Pilatus, between pp. 92, 93. 
.3. From Bern, p. 136. 

4. From the Niesen, p. 144. 

5. From the Heimwehfldh, p. 148. 

6. From MuREEN, p. 151. 

7. From the Fadlhoen, between pp. 164, 165. 

8. From the FLftGfeEE, between pp. 260, 261. 

9. From the Eggishoen, between pp. 304, 305. 

10. From the Goener Grat, between pp. 324, 325. 

11. From the Piz Languard, between pp. 396, 397. 

Flans of Towns. 

Bale, p. 2; Constance, p. 25; Zijeich, p. 32; Lucerne, p. 76; Been, p. 132: 

Geneva, p. 204; Lausanne, p. 220; Ragatz, p. 344; Coire, p. 345; 

Lugano, p. 422; Milan, p. 450. 





Abbreviations. 


R. = Room. 




E. = East, casti-in. 


B. = Breakfast. 




W. ±z West, western. 


D. = Dinner. 




r. := Right. 


L. = Light. 




1. = Left. 


A. = Attendance. 




hr. = Hour. 


M. = English mile. 




min. = Minute. 


ft. (') = Engl. foot. 




carr. = Carriage. 


N. = North, northe 


rn. 


S.A.C. = Swiss Alpine Club. 


S. — South, southern. 


I.A.C. = Italian Alpine Club. 



N.B. Everything specially worthy of note is indicated by an asterisk. 
With regard to distances, see Preface. 



I. Plan of Tour. 

Season of the Year. Distribution of Time. 

The traveller will save both time and money by planning his tour 
carefully before leaving home. The Handbook will help him to 
select the most interesting routes and the pleasantest resting- 
places, and point out how each day may be disposed of to the best 
advantage, provided the weather be favourable. 

Season. The great majority of tourists visit Switzerland between 
the middle of July and the end of September ; but to those who 
wish to see the scenery, the vegetation, and particularly the Alpine 
flowers in perfection June is recommended as the most charming 
month in the year. For expeditions among the higher Alps the 
month of August is the best time. Even in summer snow occasion- 
ally falls among the higher regions, rendering the mountain-paths 
impassable; but in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the 
Itigi, the routes through the Bernese Oberland, and most of the 
higher Alpine carriage-routes at the beginning of June. On the 
other hand snow sometimes lies throughout the whole season on 
the Furka, the Grimsel, the Gemmi, etc. 

Distribution of Time. One Month, as the annexed plan shows, 
suffices for a glimpse at the most interesting parts of Switzerland. 
Bale, where the scenery is least interesting, is a good starting- 
point, but the traveller may find it more convenient to begin with 
Geneva or Neuchatel. 

Days 
By railway from Bdle to Neuhausen; visit the Falls of the Rhine, by 

railway from Dachsen to Zurich (RR. 1, 8, 9, 12) 1 

Zurich and the Uetliberg (R. 13) 1 

From Zurich by railway to Zug ; by steamboat io Arth; by railway 

to the Rigi-Kttlm (RR. 23, 28, 26) 1 

From the Rigi by railway to Vitznau (or on foot to Waggis); by 

steamboat to Lucerne, and one day at Lucerne (RR. 26, 25, 24) 1 
By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne to Brunnen; visit the RiitH, 

Axenstein, etc. (R. 25) 1 

By steamer from Brunnen to FlUelen ; by the St. Gotthard Railway 

to Gdschenen; by omnilms or on foot to Andermatt (RK.25, 30,31) ". 1 
By diligence over the Furka to the Rhone Glacier (E.33); walk over 

the Grimsel to the Grimsel JJospice (R. 52) 

Walk down the Ilaslithal (llandegg Fall) to Meiringen (RR. 52, 49) 1 
Walk from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber- 
nese Oberland, by the Scheidegg, to [the Faulhorn (RR. 49, 48) . . 1 
Descend the Faulhorn to] Grindelwald (Grindelwald Glaciers) (RH. 48, 

47) 1 

Walk from Grindelwald over the Wengernalp to Lauterhrunnen 

(Staubbach) (RR. 47, 45) 1 

Walk or ride to Miirren and the Schmadri Fall and back: drive to 

Interlakcn (RR. 46, 45) (Ij 



I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. xiii 

Days 
Morning at Inlerlaken ; in the afternoon by steamer to the Giessbac/i 

and back (RR. 44, 51) 1 

By railway to Darligen; by steamer to Spiez ; [walk to Wimmis; 

walk or ride to the top of the Niesen (RR. 43, 42) (1) 

Descend from the Niesen to Fruligen] ; drive or walk to Kandersteg 

(R. 53) - 1 

Walk from Kandersteg over the Gemmi to Bad Leuk (R. 53) ... 1 
Drive to Leuk statinn (R. 53) ; by railway to Visp (R. 80) ; walk to 

St. Nicolaus (R. 84) ; drive to Zermatt (R. 84) 1 

Walk to the Riffel Inn, ascend the Gornergrat, and return to Zermatt 

(R. 85) . . " 1 

Excursions from Zermatt (Gorges du Garner, Schworzsee, Hdrnli, etc.) 

(R. 85) 1 

Walk back to Vi^ (R. 84) ; by railway to Martigny (R. 80) . . . 1 
To Chamonix over the Col de Balme or the Teie-Noire (RR. 74, 73) 1 

Chamonix (R. 72) 1 

To Vernayaz by Triquent and Salvan (R. 73); by raihvav to Mon- 

treux (R. 65) ' . . . . 1 

Excursions from Montreux and Vevey (R. 65) ; bv steamboat to 

Geneva (R. 65) " 1 

Geneva and Environs (R. 64) 1 

By railway to Lausanne; several hours at Lausanne; by railway in 

the afternoon to Freiburg (RR. 65, 61) 1 

By raUway to Bern (R. 61) ; at Bern (R. 40) 1 

By railway to Bale (R. 4); at Bale (R. 1) 1 

A few additional days may be pleasantly spent in Eastern 
Switzerland (Appenzell, Bad Pfafers, Via Mala, Upper Engadine), 
whence the Italian Lakes are easily visited. 

Days 
From Rorschach or Zurich to Pfafers and Coire (RR. 89, 9U) . . 1 
Diligence to Thusis; walk through the Via Mala as far as the third 

bridge, and return to Thusis (R. 96) ; walk by the Schpn-Strasse to 

Tiefenknsten (R. 96) 1 

Diligence over the Julier to Silvaplana (R. 100) and St. Moritz (R. 101). 
Drive to the Maloja and back (R. 101); in the afternoon to Pon- 

tresina (R. 102) 1 

Pontresina {Morleratsch and Roseg Glaciers; ascent of Ihe Piz Lan- 

guard etc.; R. 102) 2-3 

Diligence over the Bernina to Tirana and Sondrio (R. 104); railwav 

to Calico (R. 104); steamer to Bellagio (R. 113) '. IJ/2 

Bellagio ( Villa Serbelloni, Villa Carloita, etc.) ; then via Menaggio 

and Parlezza to Lugano (RR. 112, 108) 1 

Steamboat to Ponte Tresa, railway to Luina (R. 112); steamer to the 

Borromean Islands and to Pallanza or Stresa (R. 110) 1 

Steamboat to Laveno, and back by the St. Ootthard Railway to 

Lucerne 1 

Or by railway and diligence over the Simplon to Brieg (R. 80) . . 1 



So comprehensive a tour as the above is of course rarely under- 
taken; but it will enable the traveller to plan an excursion of suit- 
able length, such as one nf the following : — 

I. KiGUT Days kkom Bale. 
(Riyi, Bernese Oberland, Rhone Glacier, St. Gallhard Route.) 
1st. From Bdle (or Constance or Romanshorn) to Zurich. UetHherg. 
2nd. To Zug, Arth, the Rigi, and Lucerne. 
3rd. By the Briinig Railway to Meiringcn (Gorge of the Aare; Pilaliic 



xiv 1. I'LAN OF EXCURSION. 

'/z-l day cxIiiO and Dviem; liy steamboat to the Clksshacli and ISdniijen; 
by railway to Interlaken. 

4tb. To Lciuterbrunnen, and over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald. 

5tli. Over the Great ticheidegg to Inn Ilof. 

6th. Through the Haslithal (Handegg Fall) to the Grimsel Hospice. 

7th. By the Grimsel, the Rhone Glacier^ and the Furka to AndermciH 
or Gosckenen. 

8fh. To Fliielen, Lucerne, and £aie. 

II. Twelve or Foueteen Uats feom Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Gemtni.) 
l3t-6th. As in Tour I. 

7th. Over the Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier. Drive to Fiesch; walk 
or ride to the Udlel Jtingfrau. (Two additional days: — Ascend the 
Eggishorn ; walk via the Riederalp to the Belalp. — Ascend the Sparren- 
horn, descend to Brieg.) 

8th. Take train to Visp, walk or ride to St. Niklaus , and walk, 
ride, or drive to Zermatt. 

9th. Ascend the Riffelberg and Gornergrat, etc. 
10th. Return to Visp. 

11th. To Bad-Leuk and over the Gemmi to Kandersteg. 
12th. To Spiez jand Thun (train to Bdle, or to Bern and Geneva). 

III. Sixteen Dats fkoji Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Chamoniv, Lake of Geneva.) 
l3t-9th. As in Tour II. 
10th. To Visp, and by train to Martigny. 
11th. Over the Tt'te-Noire or the Col de Balme to Chamonix. 
12th. Excursions from Chamonix. 

1.3th. By Salvnn to Vernayaz ; by train to Montreux. 
14th, 15th. To Vevey, Lausanne, and Geneva. 
16th. To Freiburg, Bern, and Bdle (or from Bern to Neuchdtel). 

IV. Seventeen to Twenti Dats from Bale. 
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Southern Valais, Chamonix.) 
l8t-8th. As in Tour II. 

9th. Ascend the Gornergrat and return to St. JViklaus. 
10th. Cross the Augstbord Pass (ascent of Schwarzhorn) to Gruben. 
11th. Cross the Meiden Pass (ascent of Bella Tola) to St. Luc, Vis- 
soye, or Zinal. 

12th. At Zinal (visit the Alp Arpitelta, etc.). 
13th. Cross the Col de Torrent to Evolena. 

14th, 15th. At Evolena (Arolla and Ferpicle), and return to Sion. 
16th, 17th. Cross the Gemmi to Kandersteg and Thun (or by rail to 
Lausanne, Freiburg, and Bern). 

(Or: 15th. From Evolena to Sion and Martigny. 16th-20th. To Cha- 
monix, Geneva, etc., as in Tour III. J 

V. Seven Dat.s fkom Bale. 
(Bernese Obtrland, Rigi, St. Gotthard Railway, Italian Lakes.) 
1st. From Bdle to Bern and Jnterlaken. 

2nd. To Latilerbrtinnen, and over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald. 
3rd. Over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen. 

4th. Over the Briinig to Alpnach-Stad (ascent of IHlaiiis) and Lucerne. 
5th. By the St. Gotthard Railway to Laveno (Stresa, Borromean Is- 
lands). 

6th. By Luino and Lugano to Bellagio. 

7th. Steamer to Como; back by the St. Gotthard Rail, to Lucerne, etc. 

VI. Eight or Ten Days from Bale. 
(Rigi, Lake of Lucerne, St. Gotthard, Italian Lakes, Spliigen.) 
Ist. From Bdle to Lucerne, and by Arth to the Rigi-Kulm. 
2nd. Descend to Vitznau; steamer to Brunnen (Axenslein, Riitli, etc.j. 



I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. xv 

(One or (wo additional days : visit the Madernncr Thai from Aiusleg., 
and return by the Staffeln. By train or carriage to Gos<'henen.) 

3rd. By the St. Gotthard Line to Locarno. 

4th. To the Borromean Islands, Luino, and Lugano. 

5th. By Como, or by Porlezza, to Bellagio. 

6th. Walks at Bellagio; steamer to CoUco ; drive to Ckiavenna. 

7th. Cross the Splilgen to Coire. 

8th. To Zurich and Neuchdlel (or to the Falls of the Rhine and Bale). 

VII. Twelve to Fourteen Dats from Bale. 

(Same as Tour VI., with the addition of the Upper Engadine.) 
lst-5th. As in Tour VI. 

6th. To Ckiavenna and through the Val Bregaglia to Casaccia. 
7th. Cross the Maloja to St. Moritz and Pontresina. 
8th, 9th. At Pontresina (Piz Laiiguard, etc.). 
10th. Cross the Albula to Tiefenkasten. 

nth. Through the Scht/n Pass to Thusis (Via Mala) and Coire. 
12th. To Ragatz (Pfaf'ers) and Zurich. 

VIII. Sixteen to Eighteen Dats feom Bale. 

(Same as Tour VII., v^ith the addition of the Valtellina and Lower Engadine.) 

ist-8th. As in Tour VII. 

9th. Cross the Bernina to Tirana. 

10th. Through the Valtellina to Bormio. 

11th. Cross the Wormser Jock (Piz Umbrail) to St. Maria in the 
Miinslerthal (or cross the Stelvio to Trafoi and Spondinig). 

12th. Over the 0/e» Pa«« to Zernetz (or drive by Nauders and Martins- 
bruck to Schuls). 

13th. Cross the Fliiela-Pass to Davos. 

14th. Landieasser Route to Tiefenkasten. 

15th, 16th. As 11th and 12th of Tour VII. 

IX. One Month fkom Geneva, 
(Chamoni.v , Courmayeur, Zermatt, Macugnaga , Simploii ., Cpper Rhone 
Valley, Tota Fall, St. Gotlhard, Lake of Lucerne, Rigi, Bernese Oherland.) 

Ist. From Geneva by steamer to Chillon, and by train to Aigle. 

2nd. Drive to Champdry. 

3rd. Cross the Col de Coux and Col de Golese to Samoens and Sixt. 

4th. Cross the Col d^Anterne to Chamonix. 

5th, 6th. At Chamonix ; excursions. 

7th. Cross the Col de Voza to Contamines. 

8th. Cross the Col de Bonhotnme and the Col des Fours to Moltets. 

9th. Cross the Co/ de la Seigne to Courmayeur and ^osia. 
10th. Eail to Chdtillon and walk or ride to Val Tournanche. 
11th. Cross the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt. 
12th, 13th. At Zermatt; excursions. 
14th. To Saas and Mattmark. 
15th. To Macugnaga by the Monte Moro. 

16th. Walk or ride to Vogogna (and thence, if time permit, devote 
a couple of days or more to the Italian Lakes). 
17th. Cross the Simplon to Brieg. 
18th. Drive to Fiesch; ascend the Eggishorn. 

i9th. Drive to Obergestelen (perhaps visit the Rhone Glacier thence) 
and cross the Gries Pass to the Fall of the Tosa. 
20th. Cross the S. Giacomo Pass to Airolo. 
21st. By train to Fliielen ; steamboat to Vitznau. 
22nd. Rigi. 
23rd. To Lucerne. 

24th. Cross the Briinig to Meiringen. 
25th. To Rosenlaui and Grindelwald. 



xvi I. PLAN OF EXOUKSIUN. 

26IU. Cri)9S the Wengernalp to Laulerbrunnen ; drive to Inlerlaken. 

'i7lh. Visit Giessbach ; steamboat from Interlaken to Thun. 

aSlh. To Bern; thence to Bale or back to Geneva. 

All the above tonrs are adapted for moderate walkers, and 
may of course be varied at pleasure. 

Lastly, to travellers who are disinclined for a prolonged tour, 
the following notes may be acceptable : — 

Famous Points of View. 

1. In the Jura (with tlie Alps in the distance, the lower Swiss 
hills in the foreground, and, from the westernmost points, the lakes 
of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : Bdlel Schweizerhof (p. 25) by the Falls 
of the Rhine ; the Weissenstein (p. 15) near Soleure ; the Frohbitrg (p. 13) 
near Olten ; the Chaumont (p. 192) and the Tete de Rang (p. 193), in Canton 
Keuchatel ; the Signal de Chexbres (p. 202), the Signal de Bougy (p. 219), the 
Dole (p. 218), the Mont Tendre (p. "Mi) and the Dent de Vaulion (p. 205) in 
the Canton de Vaud. 

2. ^Nearer the Alps, or among the lower Alps: 

(a). On the N. side of the Alps: the Kaien (p. 53), Jlohe Kaslen 
(p. 55), and Sentis (p. 56) in Canton Appenzell ; the Uetliberg (p. 37) and 
Bachtel (p. 42) near Zurich ; the Speer (p. 44) near Weesen ; the Alvier (p. 46) 
near Sargans ; the Rigi ip. i'i) , Pilatiis (p- Q2) , Mythen (p. lOl), Nieder- 
bauen (p. SO), and the Frohnalp stuck (p. 82) near the Lake of Lucerne; the 
Napf (p. 128) in the Kntlebucli; the Schanzli (p. 138) and the Gurten (p. 139) 
near Bern; the Molfson (p. 235) and Jaman (p. 236) in Canton Freiburg; 
the SaUve (p. 215) and the Voiroiis (p. 216) in Savoy, near Geneva; the 
Chamossaire (p. 229) near Villars. 

(b). On the S. side of the Alps : Monte Generoso (p. 426), Monte S. Sal- 
ratoie (p. 42i), and Monte Bri (p. 424) near the Lake of Lugano; Monte 
Motlerone (p. 436) between the lakes of Blaggiore and Orta ; the Becca di 
liona (p. 2T7) near Aosta; the Crammont (p. 275) near Pre'-St. Didier. 

3. Among the High Alps: A'iesen (p. 141), Amnisbiihel (p. 144), Ileim- 
irehjiuh (p. 148), Scheiuige Platte (p. 149), Ahendberg (p. 151), Faulhorn 
(p. 163), Wengernalp (p. 158), Miinnlichen (p. 162), Britnzer Rolhhorn (p. 169), 
Miirren (p. 154), and the Schilthorn (p. 154) in the Bernese Oberland ; the Pizzo 
Centr ale ip. Ill) on the St. Gottliard ; the Furkahorn (p. 116), Kleine Siedel- 
horn (p. 173), Eggishorn (p. 304), Sparrhorn (p. 297), the Torrenthorn (p. 181), 
Pierre it Voir (p. 232), Mont BniU fp. 312), Oornergrat (p. 323), Schwarzhorn 
(p. 318), Bella Tola (p. 317), and Pic d^Arzinol (p. 310) in the Valais ; the 
Col de Balme (p. 269), FUgh-e (p. 261), and Brivent (p. 261) near Chamoni.x ; 
Piz Umbrail (p. 414) on the Stelvio route: Muot Marmork (p. 386), Muotlas 
Muraigl (p. 391), Scha/bcrg (p. 395), Piz Languard (p. 396), Piz 01 (p. 391), 
Schwarzhorn (p. 351), Stdlzerhorn (p. 380), Piz Mundaun (p. 359) and Piz 
Muraun (p. 362) in the Grisons. 

Principal Alpine Passes. 
Pre-eminent in point of scenery is the St. Golthard (RR. 30, 31), rendered 
easily accessible by the railway across it ; but it need hardly be said that 
its attractions are not seen to advantage from the windows of a train. 
Next to it ranks the SplUgen (RR. 96, 97), particularly on the N. side, 
where it coincides with the Bernardino Route (R. 98). The finest approach 
to the Kngadine is by the Schyn-Slrasse (p. 369) and the Albula Pass (R. 99); 
and the beautiful Maloja Pass (RK. 101, 105) leads thence to the Lake 
of Como. From the Kngadinc the intere.sling Bcrnina /'ass (li. 104) crosses 
to the somewhat monotonous Vallellina, the journey through which hag, 
liowever, been much facilitated by the new railway from Sondrio to Colico. 
(p. 409). In Western Switzerland the Siniplon (1!,. 80) is justly a fav- 
ourite pass, though inferior to several of the aliove , while the famous 
Great St. Bernard (K. 78), apart from its hospice, is undoubtedly the least 
interesting of the series. Many of the grandest, and also easiest passes 
are comprised in the 3th of the above Tours. 



II. TRAVELLING EXPENSES. MONEY. xvii 

Headquarters for Mountaineering. 
The must important are Grindelwald (p. 160j, Zeriiiall (p. 322), C/ia- 
monix (p. 257), Covrmayeur (p. 274), Macugnaga (p. 329), and Ponlresina 
(p. 392), at all of which experienced guides abound. 

Health Kesorts. 

Switzerland can boast of few mineral springs, but 'Luftkurorte' 
('air -cure places') and summer pensions abound in every part of the 
country. A few of the most important only need be mentioned here. 

Mineral Baths. Tarasp, in the Lower Engadine (p. 403): ,S(. Morifz, 
in the 'Upper Engadine (p. 388) ; Eagalz fp. 341) ; Stachelberg (p. 61) ; 
Weissenburg (p. 186); Lenk (p. 184); Lenk or Loec/ie (p. 180); the saline 
baths of Bex and Aigle (pp. 220, 229) ; St. Gervais (p. 254). 

Winter Eesokts for invalids: Davos fp. 351); Mcntreux (p. 225). 

Summer Resorts, see p. xviii. 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money. 

Expenses. The cost of a tour in Switzerland depends of course 
upon the habits and tastes of the traveller. The pedestrian's daily 
expenditure, exclusive of guides, may be estimated at 12-15s., if 
he frequents the best hotels , or one-third less if he selects the 
more modest inns, and avoids the expensive and tedious tables 
d'hote. The traveller who prefers driving and riding to walking, 
who always goes to the best hotels, and never makes an ascent 
without a guide, must be prepared to spend at least twice the above 
sum ; while the mountaineer's expenses will often amount to several 
pounds for a single glacier-expedition. 

Money. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of 
France in 1851. In silver there are coins of 5, 2, 1, and ^j-i fr. 
(Those of 1859-63, with the sitting figure of Helvetia, which have 
been called in, and Italian and Papal 1 fr. and 1/2 fr. pieces should 
be declined). In plated copper 20, 10, and 5 centimes (or 'Rappen'), 
and in copper 2 and 1 c. pieces. One franc = 100 c. = (in Ger- 
man money) 80 pfennigs == Q^/^d. French gold is the most con- 
venient coin, and English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are re- 
ceived almost everywhere at the full value; but the circular notes 
of lOi., issued by many of the Englisli banks, are safer for carrying 
large sums. German gold and banknotes also realize their full value 
(20 marks = 24 fr. 50-60 c). 

m. Hotels and Pensions. 

Hotels. Switzerland is famous for its hotels. The large modern 
establishments at Geneva, Vevey, Ziirich, Lucerne, Interlaken, etc.. 
are models of organisation; the smaller hotels are often equally well 
conducted, and indeed a really bad inn is rarely met with in French 
or German Switzerland. 

The ordinary charges at the first -class hotels are: bed -room 
from 21/2 fr-, table d'hote 4-6 fr.; breakfast (tea or coffee, bread, 
butter, and honey) I'^f'- i" ^^^ public room, 2fr. in the traveller's 
apartment; candle 1 fr., service 1 fr. ; supper generally a la carte. 

liAtUEKER, Switzerland. 13th Edition. b 



xviii III. HOTELS AND PENSIONS. 

When attendance is charged in the bill, nothing more need be given 
except to the boots and porter. At the large hotels the best accom- 
modation is generally reserved for families, while the solitary tra- 
veller is consigned to the inferior rooms at equally high charges. 

At the second-class inns the average charges are : bed-room from 
l^/afr., breakfast l-l'/4fr., table d'hote 21/2-3 fr., service discre- 
tionary, and no charge for 'bougies'. 

Opinions regarding hotels often differ ; but travellers will rarely 
have much cause to complain if they endeavour to comply with the 
customs of the country, restrict their luggage to a moderate quantity 
(p. xxv), and learn enough of the language to make themselves in- 
telligible. 

If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel, the bill should be asked for 
every three or four days, in order that errors, whether accidental or de- 
signed, may more easily be detected. When an early departure is contem- 
plated, the liill should be obtained over-night. It is not an uncommon 
practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and 
confusion of starting render overcharges less liable to discovery. 

In the height of the season the hotels at the favourite resorts of trav- 
ellers are often crowded. To prevent disappointment rooms should be tele- 
graphed for (p. xxv). 

Pensions. Boarding-houses or 'pensions' abound at Lucerne, 
Geneva, Interlaken, and in many other parts of Switzerland. The 
charge for board and lodging varies from 41/2 to 10 or 15 fr., and at 
some of the most famous health-resorts and watering-places some- 
times amounts to 20 fr. per day. As the word 'pension' is some- 
times used to signify board only, the traveller should ascertain 
whether rooms are included in the charge or not. In the dull 
season (October to June) many of the hotels also take visitors 'en 
pension', usually charging l-3i/2fr. per week extra for attendance. 

Among the Swiss Summer Kesorts may be mentioned: — 

In NoKTiiEKN SwiTZEULAND: The Wetssensteiii (4220'; p. 15) near So- 
lenre; Langenbruck (2355'; p. 12) and Freiikendorf (1120'; p. 12j near Lies- 
tal; the Fi-ohburg (2772'; p. 13) near Olten; the C/iavmoiH (3845'; p. 192) 
near Neuchatel; Ziirk/i (1345'; p. 32) and the Uetlibevg (2864'; p. 38); 
Wadenswt/l (1348'; p. 40) and other places on the Lake of Zurich (1342'); 
Schd»/el.i and Felsenegg (3130'; p. 71) near Zug; Weesen (1410'; p. 43); and 
Murg (p. 45) on the Walcnsee; Obslaldm (2237'; p. 44), Stachelberg (2178'; 
p. Gl), Vorauen (2640'), and Richisau (3590') in the Klcinthal (p. 66); 
the lleinvichsbad (2300'; p. 48), near Ilorisau; Rorschach (1312'; p. 50), 
Walzeiihausen (2224'; p. 50), Ihiden (2645'; p. 52), Gais (3075'; p. 54), and 
Weissbad (2680'; p. 55) in Appen/cU. 

On the Lakk of Luckrne (1435'): Lucerne (p. 74); Meggen (p. 95); Jler- 
tenstein (p. 78); Weggis {p.lS); lieckenried (p. 79); VHziiau (p. 78); Gersmi 
(p. 79) ; Bnirnieii fp. 81 ) ; Axcnstein (2330') and Axeiifels (2065'; p. 81) ; SeelUberg 
(2628'; p. 80); Biirgeiistock {'mb's p. 91); Sloos (4242'; p. 81); Rigi-KlosterU 
(4262'; p. 87), Kaltbud (4700'), First (4750'), Utaffel (5262') ; and Scheideyg (5305'). 

In Canton Lucerne: Schwnrzenberg (2760'; p. 127). In Unterwalden : 
Engelberg (3315'; p. 118); Nieder-Iiickenbach (3S30'; p. 117); Melchsee-Frutt 
(6472'; p. 122). In Ubi: Amsteg (1760'; p. 103); the Maderaner Thai (4790'; 
p. 112); Andermatl (4738'; p. 110); Ilospenthal (4800"; p. 110); St. Ootthard 
(6867'; p. 111). 

In the Bernese Oberland: Bern (1765'; p. 133); Thvn (1844'; p. 139); 
Oberhofen (p. 143), Ottnten (p. 143), and Spiez (p. 144) on the Lake of Thun 
(1837'); AescM (2^18'; p. 176); Guriiigelbad (3783': p. 141) -Jnterlaken (1863'; 
p. 145); St. Beaienberg (3766'; p. 144); Abendberg (3737'; p. 151); tUa Giessbach 



IV. PASSPORTS, xix 

(1857'; p. 170); Miirren (5348'; p. 154); Wengen (4327': p. 158); Qrindelwald 
(3468'; p. 160); Meivingen (1968'; p. 168); Eiigstlenalp (6033'; p. 124); Adel- 
hodeii (444V; p. 177); Kandersteg (3840'; p. 178); Lenk (352T; p. 184). 

On the Lake of Geneva, in the Ehone Valley, etc.: Geneva (1243'; 
p. 205); Ouchy (p. 219); Lausanne (p. 220); Vevey (p. 222); Montveux 
(p. 225); Crlion 02254'; p. 226); Aigle (1375'; p. 229); Bex (1427'; p. 230); 
Villnrs (4166'; p. 229); the OrmonU (3815'; p. 2.34); Gri/on (3632'; p. 238); 
Chateau d'Oex (3498'; p. 237); Champiry (3150'; p. 241); Fiesch (3458'; 
p. 304); Belalp (7153'; p. 296); Eggishoni (7195'; p. 304); Zermatt (5315'; 
p. 322), the Riffelalp (7305'; p. 323) and Riffelberg (8430'; p. 323); Fee (5900'; 
p. 332); St. i!/c(5495'; p. 316); Zinal (5505'; p. 315); Hotel Weisshorn (7550'; 
p. 317); Fvoletia iib20'; p. 310); Chamonix (3445'; p. 257). 

In the Orisons: Samaden (5670'; p. 391); Pontresina (5915'; p. 392); 
S<. Movitz (60rO'; p. 390); SiU-Maria (5895'; p. 386); <Sc/i«!.'! (3970'; p. 402); 
Davos (5115'; p. 352); Arosa (6035'; p. 356); Klosters (39G6'; p. 349); -Seeiix'.'! 
(2985'; p. 348); WaldMuser (3615'; p. 359), near Flims; Tkusis (2448'; 
p. 368); Disentis (3773'; p. 362); TF)ese?i (4720'; p. 354); Churwalden (3976'; 
p. 380); Parpan (4956'; p. 380). 

On the South Side of the Alps; Airolo (3755'; p. 105); Hotel Piora 
(6000'; p. iQb)\Fuido (2352'; p. 106); and Bignasco (1424'; p. 428); in Ticino; 
Macugnaga (5115'; p. 329); Gressoney (5338'; p. 334); Lvgano (932'; p. 421); 
5e//a9(o (p. 444), Cadenabbia, Menaggio^ etc., on the Lake of Como (7C)0'); 
Pallanza (p. 433), Baveno (p. 434), and Stresa (p. 435), on the Lago Maggiore 
(646'); A[cmle Generoso (5440'; p. 426) and Lanzo d'Intelvi (3117'; p. 441), 
near the Lake of Lugano. 

IV. Passports. Custom House. 

Passports. In Switzerland passports are unnecessary, but as 
tliey must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters, 
and are sometimes of service in proving the traveller's identity, 
it is unwise not to be provided with one. The principal passport- 
agents in London are : Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand ; Dorrel 
and Son, 15 Charing Cross; E. Stanford, 26 Coclispnr St., Charing 
Cross; W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street. 

Custom House. Luggage is rarely examined at the Swiss 
custom-house, but the formalities of the douane must be un- 
dergone by persons leaving Switzerland. At the French, Italian, 
and Austrian frontiers the examination is sometimes strict, and to- 
bacco and cigars pay a heavy duty, but at the German frontier the 
visite is usually lenient. As a rule the traveller should restrict his 
belongings as far as possible to wearing apparel and articles for per- 
sonal use. 

V. Walking Tours. 

In a mountainous country like Switzerland it is to pedestrians 
alone that many of the finest points are accessible, and even where 
driving or riding is practicable, walking is often more enjoyable. 

Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the walker is to 
start early. If strength permits, and a suitable halting-place is to 
be met with, a walk of one or two liours may be accomplished be- 
fore breakfast. At noon a moderate luncheon is preferable to the 
usual table d'hote dinner. Rest should be taken during the hottest 
hours (12-3), and the journey then continued till 5 or p.m., 
when a sul)Stantial meal (evening tabli; d'hote at tht; principal hotels) 

b^ 



XX V. WALKTNO TOURS. 

may be partaken of. The traveller' ,s own feelings will best dirtate 
the hour for retiring to bed. 

Equipment. A superabundance of luggage infallibly increases 
the delays, annoyances , and expenses of travel. To be provided 
with enough and no more, may be considered the second golden 
rule for the traveller. A light 'gibeciere' or game-bag, which is 
far less irksome to carry than a knapsack, suffices to contain all that 
is necessary for a week's excursion. A change of flannel shirts and 
worsted stockings , a few pocket-handkerchiefs , a pair of slippers, 
and the 'objets de toilette' may, with a little practice, be carried 
with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue. A pocket-knife with a 
corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup, a spirit-flask, stout gloves , and a 
piece of green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from 
the glare of the snow, should not be forgotten. Useful, though less 
indispensable, are an opera-glass or small telescope, sewing materials, 
a supply of strong cord, sticking plaster, a small compass, a pocket- 
lantern, a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. The traveller's 
reserve of clothing should be contained in a portmanteau of moder- 
ate size, which he can easily wield himself when necessary, and 
which may be forwarded from town to town by post. 

The mountaineer should have a. -weU-tTied Alpetistock of seasoned 
ash, r)-(j' long, shod with a steel point, and strong enough, when 
placed horizontally, with the ends supported, to bear the whole 
weight of the body. For the more difficult ascents an Ice- Axe and 
Jiope are also necessary. The best ropes, light and strong, are made 
of silk or Manilla hemp. In crossing a glacier the precaution of using 
tlie rope should never be neglected. It should be securely tied 
round the waist of each member of the party, leaving a length of 
about 10' between each pair. Ice-axes are made in various forms, 
and are usually furnished with a spike at the end of the handle, so 
that they can in some measure be used like an Alpenstock. 

General Hints. The traveller's ambition often exceeds his 
powers of endurance, and if his strength be once overtaxed he will 
sometimes be incapacitated altogether for several days. At the 
outset, therefore, the walker's performances should be moderate; 
and even when he is in good training , they should rarely exceed 
lOhrs. a day. When a mountain has to be breasted, the pedes- 
trian should avoid 'spurts', and pursue the 'even tenor of his way' 
at a steady and moderate pace ( '■chi va piano va sano ; chi va sann 
rm lontano' ). As another golden maxim for his guidance, the travel- 
l(!r should remember that — 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'. 

Mountaineering among the higher Alps should not be attempted 
before the middle or end of July, nor at any period after a long 
continuance of rain or snow. Glaciers should be traversed as early 
in the morning as possible, before the sun softens the crust of ice 
formed during the night over the crevasses. Experienced guides 
are indispensable for such excursions. 



VI. MAPS. xxi 

The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless ab- 
solutely necessary. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in 
'a fragrant bed of hay', the cold night-air piercing abundant aper- 
tures, the ringing of the cow-bells , the grunting of the pigs, and 
the undiscarded garments, hardly conduce to refreshing slumber. 
As a rule, therefore, the night previous to a mountain expedition 
should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club-huts which 
the Swiss, German, and Italian Alpine Clubs have recently erected 
for the convenience of travellers. 

Mountaineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread, 
and wine or spirits for long expeditions. The chalets usually afford 
nothing but Alpine fare (milk, cheese, and stale bread). Glacier- 
water should not be drunk except in small quantities, mixed with 
wine or cognac. Cold milk is also safer when qualified with spirits. 
One of the best beverages for quenching the thirst is cold tea. 

Over all the movements of the pedestrian the weather holds 
despotic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be 
consulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the 
wind from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melt- 
ing away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, 
and the ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture are 
all signs of fine weather. On the other hand it is a bad sign if the 
distant mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct in out- 
line, if the wind blows up the mountains , and if the dust rises in 
eddies on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain. 

Health. For wounds and bruises zinc ointment is a good remedy. 
Another is a mixture of V2 oz. of white wax, '/2 o^- tallow, 3/4 oz. olive 
oil, and IV2 drachms of vinegar of lead, melted together. For inflammation 
of the skin, caused by the glare of the sun on the snow, cold cream or 
glycerine and starch are recommended. Another remedy is an ointment 
of equal parts of almond oil, white wax, and spermaceti. 

For diarrhoea 15 drops of tincture of opium and aromatic tincture 
mixed in equal quantities may be taken every two hours until relief i.<) 
alVorded. The homoeopathic tincture of camphor is also useful. 

VI. Maps. 

1. Maps of Switzerland in One Sheet : — 

*Zieglers neue Karte der Schweiz (1 : 380,000), with explan- 
ations and index. Price 12 fr. 

Ziegler's Hypsometr. Karte (1 : 380,000), 4 sheets, 20 fr. 
Kellers Karte (1 : 450,000), 6fr. 
*Leuzinger's neue Karte (i : 400,000), 8fr. 

2. Maps on a Larger Scale : — 

Oeneralkarte der Schweiz (1 : 250,000), published by the gov- 
ernment topographic office, reduced from Dufours Map, 4 sheets. 

The Alpine Club Map of Switzerland , published by R. C Ni- 
chols (1 : 250,000), 4 sheets, 42s. 

*Ti>poyraphisciie Karte der Schweiz, from surveys made by order 



xxii VIT. GUIDES. 

of the Federal authorities (under the superintendence of Oeneral 
Dufour); scale 1 : 100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 2fr. (not mounted). 
Heights are given in m&tres. 

An admirable work on a still larger scale is the *Topogra- 
phische Atlas der Schweiz, on the scale of the original drawings 
(flat districts 1:25,000, mountains 1:50,000), published by the 
Federal Staff Office (each sheet 1 fr.). 

Separate maps of the different Cantons are also Issued by the 
cantonal authorities: St. Gallen and Appenzell (16 sheets), Geneva 
(4 sh.), Lucerne (10 sh.), Ziirich (32 sh.), on a scale of 1 : 2.5,000; 
Aargau (4 sh.), Freiburg (4 sh.), Glarus, Grisons , Ticino , Uri, 
Unterwalden, Vaud (12 sh.) and the Valais, 1 : 50,000. 

For Chamonix, Reilly's Map of Mont Blanc, and Mieulet's Massif 
du Montblanc (1 : 40,000). 

For the Engadine, Zieglers Karte desOber- undUnter-Kngadin, 
in 6 sheets (1 : 50,000). 

VII, Guides. 

On well-trodden routes like those of the Rigi, Pilatus, Wen- 
gern Alp, Faulhorn, Scheidegg, Grimsel, Gemmi, etc., the services 
of a guide are unnecessary; but the traveller may engage the first 
urchin he meets to carry his bag or knapsack for a trifling gratuity. 
Guides are, however, indispensable for glacier-expeditions. As a 
class, they will be found to be intelligent and respectable men, 
well versed in their duties, and acquainted with the people and 
resources of the country. 

The great stations for guides are Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, 
Grindelwald, Meiringen, Martigny, Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zer- 
matt , and Pontresina , while for the principal passes guides are 
always to be found at the neighbouring villages. The traveller 
should select one of the certificated guides , who have passed an 
examination, and are furnished with legal certificates of character 
and qualifications. The usual pay of a guide is 6-8 fr. for a day of 
8 hrs. ; he is bound to carry 15-18 pounds of baggage, and to hold 
himself at the entire disposition of his employers. If dismissed at 
a distance from home, he is entitled to 6fr. a day for the return- 
journey ; but he is bound to return by the shortest practicable route. 

Although a guide adds considerably to the traveller's expenses, 
the outlay will seldom be regretted. A good guide points out many 
objects which the best maps fail to indicate ; he furnishes interesting 
information about manners and customs, battle-fields, and historical 
incidents ; and when the traveller reaches his hotel, wearied with the 
fatigues of the day, his guide often renders him valuable service. 
It need hardly be said that a certain amount of good fellowship and 
confidence should subsist between the traveller and the man who 
is perhaps to be his sole companion for several days, and upon 
whose skill and experience his very life not unfrequently depends. 



IX. DILIGENCES, etc. xxiii 

Divided among a party, the expense of a guide is of course 
greatly diminished; but where there is much luggage to carry, it is 
often better to hire a horse or mule, the attendant of which will 
serve as a guide on the ordinary routes. 

Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 fr. an hour, when 
not engaged by the day, return included. In every case it is advis- 
able to make a distinct bargain beforehand. 

VIII. Carriages and Horses. 

Carriages. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is 
15-20 fr., with two horses 25-30 fr. per day, and the driver ex- 
pects 1 fr. per horse as a gratuity. In the height of summer the 
charges are slightly increased. Like the guides, the 'voiturier' 
demands the return-fare to the place where he was engaged, and 
the traveller should therefore endeavour to discharge his carriage 
as near the home of the driver as possible. 

For long journeys it is desirable to have a written agreement, 
which the driver usually concludes by depositing a sum with his 
employer as earnest-money, afterwards to be added to the account. 
The carriage and horses should be inspected before the conclusion 
of the bargain. Private posting, or the system of changing horses, 
is forbidden by law. 

Return-vehicles may sometimes be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per 
day, but the use of them is in some places prohibited. 

The average day's journey is 30-40 miles, a halt of 2-3 hrs. 
being made about noon; and for the return-journey about 36 M. 

In mountainous districts 'Bergwagli' or 'chars-a-bancs', for two 
persons, may be hired for 12-15 fr. per day, fees included. 

Horses. A horse or mule costs 10-12 fr. per day, and the atten- 
dant expects a gratuity of 1-2 fr. in addition ; but in some places, 
as at Chamonix, as much is charged for the attendant as for the 
animal. If he cannot return home with his horse on the same day, 
the following day must be paid for. Walking, however, is prefer- 
able. A prolonged ascent on horseback is fatiguing, and the de- 
scent of a steep hill is disagreeable. Even ladies may easily asceTid 
some of the finest points of view on foot, but if unequal to the 
task they may either ride or engage 'chaises-a-porteurs'. 

IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph. 

Diligences. The Swiss postal system is well organised. The 
diligences are generally well fitted up, the drivers and guards are 
respectable, and the fares moderate. These vehicles consist of the 
coupe, or first-class compartment in front, with 2-3 seats, the in- 
terieur, or second-class compartment at the back, with 4-6 seats, 
which affords little or no view, and the banquette (used in summer 
only) for 2 passengers on the outside. In some cases there is only 
one outside-seat, which is reserved for the eondupteur, or guard. 



xxiv IX. DILIGENCES, etc. 

but which will be ceded by him on payment of the difference be- 
tween the oriiiiiary and the coupe fare. 

On important routes the coupe is generally engaged several days 
beforehand. This may be done by letter, enclosing the fare, and 
giving the traveller's name , and the day and hour of departure. 
When the diligence is full, 'Beiwagen', or supplementary carriages 
are provided. These are often light, open vehicles, preferable 
to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. A seat in one of them may gen- 
erally be procured by arrangement with the conductor. As a rule 
passengers are consigned to the interieur or to a supplementary 
carriage in the order in which they are booked. If therefore the 
traveller has failed to secure a coupe or banquette seat by early 
application, he will often avoid the interieur by delaying to take 
his ticket till the diligence is about to start. 

The coupe or banquette fare is on ordinary routes 20 c. per 
kilometre (about 32 c. per Engl. M.), on Alpine passes 30 c. perkilom. 
(about 48 c. per Engl. M.); fare in the interieur or cabriolet 15 or 
25 c. per kilometre (24 or 40 per Engl. M. ). Children of 2-7 years of 
age pay half-fare. Each passenger is allowed 33 lbs. of luggage 
on ordinary routes, but 22 lbs. only on the high Alpine routes. 
Overweight is charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Small articles 
may be taken into the carriage, but heavy luggage should be booked 
one hour before starting. The average speed of these sedate mail- 
coaches of Switzerland is about 6 M. per hour on level ground, and 
4 M. per hour on mountains-routes. 

Extra-Post. This is the term applied to the Swiss system of 
posting, managed by government, private posting being prohibited. 
The charge for each horse is V2f'^- per kilometre (80 c. per M.); for 
a carriage with 2-5 seats 20 c. per kilom. (32 c. per M.), for one 
with 6 seats 25 c. per kilom. (40 c. per M.), for one with 7 or 
more seats 30c. per kilom. (48c. per M.). Besides these charges, 
which include the driver's fee, an additional payment of 2-4 fr. 
must be made according to the size of the carriage. If the same 
vehicle is required for a journey of several stages, double carriage- 
money is exacted. P^xtra-post may be ordered at the principal post- 
offices on the mountain-routes at one hour's notice. The fare must 
be paid in advance. 

Letters of 15 grammes (about 1/2 o'-}i prepaid, to any part 
Switzerland 10c. ; if within a radius of 10 kilometres, 5c.; to al 
countries in the postal union 25c., and 25c. for each 15 gr. more 
Ilegistration-fee for Switzerland 10 c, for other countries 25 c. — 
Post-cards for Switzerland 5 c, for other countries 10 c. — Printed 
matter under 15 gr. for Switzerland 2 c, for other countries 5 c. 

Post Office Orders within Switzerland must not exceed 1000 fr. for 
the larger, and 0(X) t"r. for the smaller towns. The charge for an order not 
exceeding KXJfr. is 20 c., for each additional 100 fr. 10 c. more. Money- 
orders for foreign countrie.s 24 c. for every 10<J fr. (vyith a minimum 
fee of 60 c). 



X. RAILWAYS. XXV 

The Telegraph System of Switzerland is very complete, the 
aggregate length of the wires being at present greater than in any 
other country in proportion to the population. There are now 
upwards of iOOO offices; those in the large towns are open from 
6 or 7 a.m. till 11 or 10 p.m. according to the season. The tariff 
for a telegram within Switzerland is 30 c, together with 21/2 c. 
for each word ; to Germany 10 c. for each word ; to England 40 c. for 
each word; to France 7c. for each word for telegrams to the frontier, 
or 121/2 c. for each word for greater distances. The rates for other for- 
eign telegrams may be ascertained at the offices. For telegrams handed 
in at railway-stations an additional charge of 50 c. is made. 

Telegrams may be handed in at any post-office, from which, if 
not itself a telegraph office, they are transmitted without delay to 
the nearest. In such cases the fee for the telegram is paid by af- 
fixing a stamp of the requisite value (1/2 fr- or upwards, according 
to the number of words). 

X. Railways. 

The Carriages in German Switzerland are constructed on the 
American plan, generally holding 72 passengers, and furnished 
at each end with steps of easy access. Through each carriage, and 
indeed through the whole train, runs a passage, on each side of 
which the seats are disposed. This arrangement enables the trav- 
eller to change his seat at pleasure, and to see the scenery to ad- 
vantage, unless the carriage is very full. Tickets are examined and 
collected in the carriages. 

The carriages in French Switzerland are of the ordinary con- 
struction. Passengers' tickets are checked as they leave the waiting- 
room before starting, and given up at the ^Sortie' on their arrival. 

Luggage must be booked and paid for after the traveller has 
obtained his own ticket, but small portmanteaus and travelling-bags 
may generally be taken into the carriage without objection. Trav- 
ellers with through-tickets from the German to the Swiss railways, 
or vice versa, should see that their luggage is safe on reaching the 
frontier (Bale, Geneva, Neuchatel, Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Ror- 
chach, Romanshorn, etc.). Where a frontier has to be crossed, 
ordinary luggage should never be sent by goods-train. 

The enormous weight of the large trunks and boxes used by 
some travellers causes not only great labour but not infrequently 
serious and even lifelong injury to the railway and hotel porters who 
have to handle them. Heavy articles should be placed in the smaller 
packages, and only the lightest articles in the larger trunks. 

Circular Tickets and return-tickets are issued at reduced rates 
on most of the Swiss lines, and also by the German and French 
railways to Switzerland. Information regarding them will be found in 
the time-tables ; but they are apt to hamper the traveller's movements 
and to deprive Mm of the independence essential to enjoyment. 



XI. History. Statistics. 

The limits of tliis work preclude more than a brief historical sketch ol 
the interesting country the traveller is now visiting, whose inhabitants have 
ever been noted for their spirit of freedom and independence. It is ne- 
cessary for a moment to carry the reader back to the conquest of Helvetia 
by the Roman legions. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a flourish- 
ing trade , which covered the land with cities and villages. A trace of 
that period exists in the Romanic dialect , which is still spoken in some 
parts of Switzerland. 

Switzerland is believed to have been fii-st peopled by the li/iaeti, who 
were driven from the plains to the mountains by the Helvetii , a Celtic 
tribe. The latter were conquered by the Romans, B. C. 58, and the Rhseti 
were subdued in B. C. 15. The Romans made good military roads over 
the Great St. Bernard (p. 285) to Bale, and over the Julicr (p. 332), 
Scptimer (p. 382), and Spliigen (p. 373) to Bregenz (p. 420), and thence to 
Bale. The chief settlements were Aventicum (Avenches, p. 203) in the Can- 
ton of Vaud, Vindonissa (Windisch, p. 18) at the confluence of the Aare, 
Reuss , and Limmat, Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, p. 17) near Bale, and 
Curia Rhaetorum (Coire, p. 345) in the Grisons. E. Switzerland as far as 
Pfyn (ad fines) in Thurgau, and P/i/n (p. 295) in the Upper Valais, belonged 
to the province of Rhaetia, while W. Switzerland formed part of Gaul. 
The name Helvetii had become extinct even before the time of Constantine. 

About A. D. 400 a great irruption of barbarians swept through the 
peaceful valleys of the Alps , and Huns, Burgundians, Alemanni, and 
Ostrogoths in succession settled in diflferent parts of the country. The 
Alemanni occupied the whole of N. Switzerland, where German is now 
spoken; the Bnrgundians the W. part, where French is spoken; and the 
Ostrogoths S. Switzerland, where Italian and Romansch are now spoken. 
These races were gradually subdued by the Franks, who, however, did not 
take possession of the country themselves, but governed it by their officers. 
During this period Christianity was introduced, the monasteries of Disentis 
(p. 362), St. G alien (p. 48) , Einsiedeln (p. 96) , and Beromiinster were 
founded , and dukes and counts were appointed as vicegerents of the 
Franconian kings. 

After the dissolution of the great Franconian empire, the eastern half 
of Switzerland, the boundary of which extended from Eglisau over the 
Albis to Lucerne and the Grimsel, was united with the duchy of Alemau- 
nia, or Swabia, and the western part with the kingdom of Burgundy (912). 
After the downfall of the latter (1032) the German Emperors took posses- 
sion of the country, and governed it by their vicegerents the dukes of 
Zaehringen (p. 134), who were perpetually at enmity with the Burgundian 
nobles and therefore favoured the inhabitants of the towns, and were 
themselves the founders of several new towns, such as Freiburg, Bern, 
and Burgdorf. 

As the power of the emperors declined, and the nobles, spiritual and 
temporal, became more ambitious of independence, and more eager to fill 
their coffers at the expense of their neighbours, the Swiss towns and the 
few country-people who had succeeded in preserving their freedom from 
serfdom were compelled to consult their safety by entering into treaties 
with the feudal lords of the soil. Thus the inhabitants of Ziirich placed 
themselves under the protection of the then unimportant Counts of Baps- 
burg, with whom the 'Three Cantons'' of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden 
were also allied. In 1231 and 1240 letters of independence were granted 
by Emperor Frederick II. to Uri and Schwyz, and after Count Rudolph of 
Hapsburg had become emperor he confirmed the privileges of the former 
in 1274, while Schwyz and Unterwalden still continued subject to the 
Hapsburg supremacy. 

After the emperor's death in 1291 the Forest Cantons formed their 
first league for mutual safety and the protection of their liberty against 
the growing power of the House of Hapsburg. Rudolph's son Albert in 
particular endeavoured to rear the limited rights he enjoyed in these dis- 
tricts into absolute sovereignty, and to incorporate them with his empire. 



XI. HISTORY. xxvii 

The ancient cantons therefore embraced the cause of the rival monarch 
Adolp/i of Nassau, who confirmed their privileges. Victory, however, 
favoured Albert, who again deprived the cantons of their privileges, but 
does not appear to have treated them with much severity. To this period 
belongs the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell, f 

After the assassination of Albert by John of Swabia in 130S, Emperor 
Henry VII., who was also an opponent of the Hapsburgers, conferred a 
charter of independence on the Forest Cantons. The House of Hapsburg 
regarded this as an infringement of their rights, and sent a powerful 
army against these cantons, which after the death of Henry had declared 
their adherence to Lewis the Bavarian, the opponent of Frederick the 
Handsome. This army was destroyed at the Morgarlen (p. 98) in 1315. 
Subsequent attempts to subject the country to the supremacy of the 
House of Hapsburg were frustrated by the victories of the Swiss at Sem- 
pach (p. 20) in 1386, at Nafels (p. 59) in 1388, and at the Sloss (p. 54) 
in 1405. 

In the Burgundian parts of the country too the nobility were jealous 
of the increasing importance of the towns, and therefore attempted to con- 
quer Bern, but were defeated by the citizens at Laupen (p. 199) in 1339. 

In 1354 a confederacy was formed by eight independent districts and 
towns, which soon became powerful enough to assume the oftensive, and 
at length actually wrested the hereditary domain of Hapsburg from the 
dukes of Austria, who tried in vain to recover it. 

Even Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the mightiest prince of his 
time, was defeated by the Swiss at the three battles of Grandson (1476, 
p. 198), Moral (1476, p. 204), and Nancy, while at an earlier period a large 
body of irregular French and other troops, which had been made over lo 
Austria by the King of France, sustained a severe check from the con- 
federates at St. Jacob on the Birs (1444, p. 8). 

In the Swabian war (1499) the bravery and unity of the Swiss achieved 
another triumph in the victory of Dornach (p. 9). At that period their 
independence of the emperor was formally recognised, but they continued 
nominally attached to the empire down to 1648. 

The last-named victory formed a fitting termination to a successful 
career of two centuries, the most glorious in the history of Switzerland. 
At the beginning of the 16th century a period of decline set in. The 
enormous booty captured in the Burgundian war had begotten a taste lor 
wealth and luxury, the demoralising practice of serving as mercenary 
troops in foreign lands began to prevail, and a foundation was laid for 
the reproachful proverb, 'Pas d'argent, pas de Suisses T 

The cause of the Reformation under the auspices of Zwingli was 
zealously embraced by a large proportion of the population of Switzerland 
about the beginning of the 16th century ; but the bitter jealousies thus 
sown between the Roman Catholic and the Reformed Cantons were 
attended with most disastrous consequences, and in the civil wars which 
ensued bloody battles were fought at Kappel (p. 71) in 1531, at Villmergen 
in 1656, and during the Toggenburg war (p. 5S) in 1712. 

Traces of unflinching bravery and of a noble spirit of self-sacrifice in 
the cause of conscience are observable in individual instances even at the 
close of the 18th century, as e.xampled by the affairs of Rothenthvrm 
(p. 98) and Stans (p. 117), but the national vigour was gone. The resist- 



t The legend of the national hero of Switzerland, as well as the story 
of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is destitute of historical 
foundation. No trace of such a person is to be found in the work of John 
of Winterthur (Vitoduranus , 1349) or that of Conrad Justinger of Bern 
(1420), the earliest Swiss historians. Mention is made of him for the first 
time in the Sarner Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently em- 
bellished by .ffigidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 1542), and still more by Jo- 
hann v. Miiller (d. 1809), while Schiller's famous play has finally secured 
to the hero a world-wide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with among 
various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders. 



xxviii XI. STATISTICS. 

ance of individuals to the invasion of the Frencli republicans proved fruit- 
less, and the Ilelvelian Republic was founded on the ruins ol the ancient 
liberties of the nation. In 1803 Napoleon restored the cantonal system, 
and in accordance with resolutions passed by the Congress of Vienna in 
1815 the constitution was remodelled. The changes introduced in conse- 
quence of the revolution of .July, 1830, were unhappily the forerunners of 
the civil war of the Sonderbund, or Separate League, in November, 1847; 
but this was of short duration, and on 12th September, 1848, a new 
federal constitution was inaugurated. Since that period the public tran- 
quillity has been undisturbed, and the prosperity and harmony which nov7 
prevail throughout the country are not unworthy of the glorious traditions 
of the past. 



Area and Population 

acconliiig'to the decennial census of 1st Dee. 1880. 





Sq. 
Leagues 


Con f ession. 


Totals. 


Pop. 


Cantons. 


Rom.Cath. 


Prot. 


Jews 


Sects 


league 


1. Zurich . . 

2. Bern . . . 

3. Lucerne . . 

4. Uri . . . 

5. Schwyz . . 

6. Untenoald . 

7. Glanis . . 

8. Zn'J . . . 

9. Freiburg . 

10. Holeure . . 

11. Bdle-ville . 
Bale-camp. . 

12. Schaffhausen 

13. Appeiizell . 
(Rhodes ext.) 
(Rhodes int.) 

14. St. Gallen . 

15. Orisons . . 

16. Aargau . 

17. Thurgau 

18. Ticino . . 

19. Vaud . . 

20. Yalais . . 

21. Neuchdtel . 

22. Geneva . . 


74,8 
294 
54 
47 
40 
33,.s 
29,8 

10,2 

34,5 

1,5 

18,5 
12,9 

10,7 

87,7 

304,1 

60,4 

42,8 

121,0 

138,7 

226,5 

34,7 

12,2 


30,298 

65,828 

129,190 

23,149 

50,266 

26,979 

7,065 

1,218 

97,113 

69,008 

19,286 

12,099 

4,165 

3,694 
12,294 

126,177 
41,753 
88,914 
27,122 

130,093 
18,169 
99,327 
11,712 
51,620 


283,134 

463,163 

5,402 

524 

954 

367 

27,097 

21,734 

18,138 

17,130 

44,238 

46,679 

33,890 

48,088 

545 

83,429 

53,139 

108,029 

71,821 

356 

219,439 

854 

91,040 

48,310 


806 

1,316 

152 

7 

7 

2 

7 

27 

104 

139 

830 

233 

30 

18 

1 

380 

38 

1,236 

120 

11 

578 

677 
671 


3,338 

1,857 
62 

14 
8 

44 
15 
45 
147 
747 
270 
263 

158 

1 

505 

61 
466 
489 
317 
544 

35 
303 
994 


317,576 
532,164 
134,806 
23,694 
51,235 
27,348 
34,213 
22,994 
115,400 
80,424 
65,101 
59,271 
38,348 

51,958 

12,841 
210,491 

94,991 
198,645 

99,552 
130,777 
238,730 
100,216 
103,732 
101,595 


4,234 
1,810 
2,496 

630 
1,280 

816 
1,140 
2,299 
1,625 
2,329 
43,400 
3,230 
2,949 

4,723 
1,835 
2,392 

312 
3,275 
2,315 
1,072 
1,717 

444 
2,965 
8,466 


Total . . . 1769,3 
Census of 1870 — 


1,161,055 
1,084,665 


1,666,984 
1,566,001 


7,.380 
7,007 


10,683 
11,430 


2,846,102 
2,669,095 


1,608 
1,.50S 


Increase . . 


- 


76,390 


100,983 


371 


737 


177,007 


100 



The provisional returns of the census taken on Deer. 1st, 1888, 
give the total population at 2,920,547. 



I. NORTHERN SWITZERLAND. 



1. Bale 2 

From Bale through the Birsigthal to Fliihen. Lands- 
kron ; Mariastein, 8. 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Miinsterthal 9 

From Delemont to Porrentniy, 10. — Ascent of the 
Weissensteln from Miinster, 10. — From Bevilard over 
the Montoz to Reuchenette, 10. — The Pierre Pertuis. 
Macolin, 11. 
P). From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Solenre .... 12 
From Liestal to Waldenburg; Langenbriick, 12. — The 
Schafmatt; Eptingcn; the Frohburg,13. — The Neu-W art- 
burg ; Lostorf, 13. —Fridau. FromSoIeure to theWeissen- 
stein, 15. — From Soleure to Burgdorf; to Lyss, 16. 

4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenhuchsee 16 

From Ilerzogenbuchsee to Soleure, 17. — From Burg- 
dorf to Langnau, 17. 

5. From Bale to Ziirich 17 

Konigsfelden ; Vindonissa, 18. — From Brugg to Wohlen, 
18. — From Wettingen to Oerlikon, 19. 

6. From Bale to Lucerne 20 

From Zoflngen to Suhr, 20. 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg ... 21 

From Aarau to Muri and Rothkreuz-, Bremgarten, 21. — 
From Aarau to Baden, 21. — The Habsburg, 22. 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 22 

From SingentoEtzweilen, 24. — The Island of Reichenau, 
24. — Steamboat from Schaft'hausen to Constance, 24. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 25 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance 27 

The Mainau, 30. 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur( Ziirich) 30 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 31 

13. Ziirich and the Uetliberg 32 

14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and Walenstadt 39 
i. Steamboat on the Lake of Zurich 39 

The Pfannenstiel, 39. — Hiitten. From Richterswyl to 
Schindellegi, 40. 
ii. Railway on the Left (S.) Bank from Ziirich to Zie- 

gelbriicke (Glarus) 41 

The Waggithal, 41. 
iii. Railway from Ziirich to Rapperswyl, Weesen, and 

Sargans 42 

The Bachtel, 42. — Rieden, 43. — Biberlikopf ; Amden; 
Speer, 44. — From Muhlehorn over the Kerenzenberg 
to Mollis, 45. — TheMurgthal; the Koththor; the Wider- 
stein-Furkel and Murgsee-Furkel ; JIiirtschenstock,45. — 
From Walenstadt over the Kiiserruck to Wildhaus in the 
Toggenburg, 45. — The Alvier. From Mels through the 
Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser-Thal to Vattis, 46. 



Bakdkkkk, Switzerland. 13lh Edit! 



2 Route 1. BALE, noleh. 



15. From Ziirich to liomanshorn and Friedrichshafen . . 46 

From Ooi'likon to Dielsdorf; Regcnsl)erg, 40. — • From 
Wintcrthur tii Waldslmt , 47. — From Winterthur to 
Kiiti (T()sstli;il Raihv;iy), 47. — From Frauenfeld (oWyl, 
47. — From Siilgcn to (jossau, 47. 

16. From Ziirich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . 47 

From Winkeln to Appenzcll, 48. — Excursions from St. 
Gallen; llieFreudenberg; Untere and UbereWaid,etc.,49. 

— Excursions from Rorscliach ; the Martinstobel ; the 
Muttelischloss; Walzenhausen ; Meldegg; Horn, 50. — 
Excursions from Lindau, 51. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 51 

Chapelof St. Anthony; theKaien, Viigelisegg, Gabris, and 
Stoss, 53,54. — From the Weissbad over the Hohe Kaslen 
to the Valley of the Rhine, 55. — The Wildkirchli and 
Ebenalp, 55,56. — The Sentis, 56. — From the Weissbad 
toWildhaus; Altmann, 57. — Teufen; Friilichsegg, 57. 

18. From Wyl througli the Toggenhurg to Buchs in the 
Rhine Valley 58 

Ascent of the Speer from Ebnat or Nesslau, 58. — From 
Nesslau over the Kriizern Pass to Urniisch, 5S. 

19. From Zurich to Glarus and Linththal 59 

The Rautispitz, Obersee, and Scheye, 60. — The Schild; 
Fronalpstock; Oberblegisee, 61.- — Saasberg and Kiirpf- 
stock,61. — Excursions from Stachelberg, 62. — The Pan- 
tenbriicke, IJelialp, Upper Sandalp, and Todi, etc., 62, 6i. 

— From Linththal over the Kisten-Pass to Ilanz, 63. 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klaiisen 63 

21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 65 

From the Muottathal to Altdorf over the Kinzig Pass, 
and to Stachelberg bv the Bisithal, 65. — The Gliir- 
nisch, 66. 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal .... 67 

From Elm over the Segnes Pass to Films; over the 
Panixer Pass or the Sether Furka to Ilanz, 68. — From 
Elm over the Ramin Pass to Weisstannen. 68. — From 
Elm over the Sardona Pass, the Scheibe Pass, or the 
Muttenthaler Grat to Viittis, 68. — From Elm over the 
Richetli Pass to Linththal, 68. 



1. Bale. 

Railway Stations. The Baden Station (PI. F, 1), at Klein-Basel, 
is on the ri'j;ht bank of the Rhine. The Baden time is 4 min. in advance 
of the Swiss. — The Alsace and the Swiss lines both start from the Cen- 
TKAi. Station (PI. D, E, G) in Bale, on the S. side of the town. These 
two stations are connected by a junction-line, crossing the river (10 min. ; 
fares 1 fr., 70 c., 50 c.). Omnibus, see p. 3. 

Hotels. *Trois Rois (PI. a ; D, 2, 3), on the Rhine, R., L., & A. 4V2-6'A'5 
B. 11/2, D. 5 fr. At the Central Station, to the right: "Hotel Suisse (PI. c; 
E, 6), R. <fe A. 3V2-4i/i, D. 4-5 fr. ; '■'Hotel National (PI. d; E, 6), R., L., & 
A. 3i/-.>-4 fr., these two of the first class; 'Hotel Victoria (PI. e; E, 6); 
Hotel St. GoTTHAnn. To the left of the station: Hotel Euler (PI. b; 
IJ, 6), R., L., & A. 31/2-572, omnibus 1 fr., tirst-class ; 'Hotel Hofer (PI. f; 
D, 6), K. & A. 3-31/2, B. IV4 fr. ; Hotel Jura, small. — In the town : "Faucon 
(PI. g; 1), 6), corner of the Elisabcthen-Str., R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; 'Sohike (PI. h; 



^ Freiburg 




OlteiL, Ktieinf eldeiv 



GeograplL. Anat. v: Wagner ii Debes.Lpn^ti^ 



Bridges^. BALE. /. nmilf. 3 

D, 4), R. & A. 2V2-3, B. 1 fr. ; Sauvage (PI. i ; D, 4); "Cigogne (PI. k ; D, 3), 
R. & A. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; Hotel Central (PI. o; D, 4), opposite the post-office; 
*CoDRONNE (PI. 1; D,3), 'Bellevue (PL m; 1), 3), both on the Rhine; 'Post 
(PI. n; D, .3, 4). — At Klein-Basel: -Hotel Krafi'T (PI. p; K, 3), R. & A. 3, 
B. l'/4, D. 3 fr., Croix Blanche (PI. q ; E), 3j, R. & A. 2'/;!-3 fr., both on the 
Rhine; Hotel de Bale (PI. r; F, 2), R. & A. 3, B. l'/4 fr. ; Hotel Schrie- 
DER (PI. s; F, 1), near the Baden Station, moderate, R. 2, B. 1 fr. 

Cafes. Trois Rois , on the Rhine; Kunsthalle; Stadt- Casino; Cafi 
National (Kleinbasler GeselUchaftshMis), liy the old bridge, with a terrace. — 
Confectioners (who sell 'Basler Leckerli"}. Wii'z, near the old bridge; 
Kissling-Kuentzy^ Freie-Str. 19; Burckhardt, Steiger, both in the Schneider- 
gasse ; HiJrter, at Klein-Basel ; etc. 

Restaurants. At the "Central Station; Kibigei\ Barfiisser-Platz; Bier- 
halle zum Parsifal.. Frele-Str. 49 (Munich beer); Biihlers Bierhalle, Steinen 
suburb, in the 'old German' style, good cooking (in summer, Biihler's Bier- 
garien, in the Sternengiisslein). Wine at the Velllinerhnlle, Freie-Str. and 
at the Schiitzenhaus (good stained glass). — In Klein-Basel: at the Baden 
Station; Burgvogtei, with a 'Bierhalle' and garden; Warteck Brewery, near 
the Baden station; Oescfiger, Biehcnthor-Str. 27. — " Sommer- Casino (PL 
F, 6), near the St. Jacob Monument (p. 8), with a pleasant garden, music 
on Wed. and Frid. at 7.30, on Sun. at 6 p.m. (50 c.); concerts also at the 
Krlen-Park, l'/4 M. from Klein-Basel, and in the Zoological Garden (p. 8). 

Omnibus (Stadtomnibus) between the Central and Baden Stations, cross- 
ing the Alte Briicke. — Cabs. For 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons, 80 c. ; second ','4 hr. 
()(), each additional 1/4 hr. 50 c. ; 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c., the second 1/4 br. 90, 
each additional '/4 hr. 70 c. From either station into the town, 1-2 pers. 
1 fr. 20 c. , 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 80 c. ; from one station to the other 1-2 pers. IV2, 
3-4 pers. 21/2 fr., each box 20c. extra. At night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m.) 3fr. 
for the first '/2 hr. and 1 fr. for each additional 1/4 br- j and 10 c. per '/4 
hr. for lights. 

Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. D 4) in the Freie-Str.; at the railway- 
stations; in the Johannes suburb; and at the Schiitzengraben. 

Baths in the Rhine (Tl. E, 3, 4), entered from the Pfalz (p. 5), 1 fr. 
Warm baths : Sfauffer-Sckmid, Martinsgasse; Sigmiind, heoahaTd-StT.-, Zum 
Brunnen, Fischmarkt. 

Zoological Garden (p. 8); admission '/i fr. 

Picture Gallery ('/2fr.) in the new Ktinst/ialle on the Steinenberg (p. 8); 
another at Lang's, Freie-Str. 

English Church Service in a chapel at the Hotel des Trois Rois. 

United States Consul, George Gifford, Esq. 

B&le, or Basel (870'), the capital of the half-canton Bale-Ville 
or Basel-Stadt (pop. about 70,000), is first mentioned in the year 
374 under the name oSBasilea, having prohably been founded by the 
Roman armies, when they fell back on the Rhine, near the old Colonin 
Augusta Rauracorum, which had been established in B. C. 27 by 
L. Munatius Plancus (now Basel- Augst, b^/2 M. to the E. , see 
p. 17). In the middle ages Bale was a free town of the Empire, 
and it has been a member of the Swiss Confederation since 1501. 

Tlie principal town lies on the left bank of the Rhine, and is 
connected with Klein -Basel by three bridges. The wooden Alte 
Briicke (PI. D, E, 3). 165 yds. in length and 16 yds. in breadth, 
is partly supported by stone piers. In the middle of the bridge rise 
a chapel of the 16th cent, and a column with a barometer and 
weather-cock. Above the old bridge the river is crossed by the 
iron Wettstein Bride (PI. F, 4), completed in 1879, with three 
spans, 200 ft. in width. At each end of the bridge are two basilisks, 
the lieraldic symbol of Bale. Below the old bridge is the tive- 

1* 



4 Route 1. BALE. Miinsler. 

arched Johanniter Bridge (PI. D, 1), completed in 1882, wliich 
commands a fine view. 

The *Miin8ter (PI. E, 4), a picturesque edifice of red sand- 
stone , with two conspicuous towers , was formerly the cathedral 
of the see of Bale. The bishopric, founded by Charlemagne, 
was transferred, in consequence of the puritanical outrages, to 
Porrentruy (p. 10) in 1529, and afterwards to Soleure (p. 14). 
The Munster was built by the Emp. Henry II. in 1010-1019, 
and was restored in 1185 after a fire. In 1356 the old building was 
almost demolished by an earthquake, but it was afterwards rebuilt 
in the Gothic style. The Toivers, which are 218' in height, were 
not completed till 1500. Of the original structure the N. porta], or 
St. Qallus gateway (built about 1200), still exists, and is adorned 
with statues of the Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints; 
over the church-door is a relief representing the wise and foolish 
virgins; at the sides in six niches are the works of charity, and at 
the top Christ on the Judgment-seat and the angels at the last day. 
The W. Front under the towers, with the principal portal and two 
side-entrances, belongs to the 14th cent. ; on the facade are represented 
the Virgin and Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder 
and benefactor of the church, with the Empress Kunigunde ; on the 
two side-entrances are two knights, on the left St. George and the 
Dragon, and on the right St. Martin. The exterior has recently 
undergone a thorough restoration. 

The Interior is open to the public in summer on Wed., 2-4 p.m.-, 
at other times 50c. (mediseval collection and council-hall 50c. extra, see 
lielow). The sacristan lives in the Mvinsterplafz No. 13, but in summer he 
is generally to be found in the church (knock). The church, which is 71 
yds. long and 35>/2 yds. wide, was skilfully restored in 1852-56, and is 
embellished with good modern stained glass. The beautiful rood-lolt of 1381 
serves to support the large new organ. The pulpit dates from 1486. The aisles 
and choir contain old monuments and tombstones built into the walls. In the 
N. aisle is a Gothic sacerdotal chair of the 14th cent. ; we also observe a 
curious relief of the Uth cent, (martyrdom of St. Vincent). The font is of 
1465 ; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of 
Rotterdam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the retro-choir are 
monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Hapsburg 
and mother of Albert I. , and of her youngest son Charles. The crypt 
is now occupied by the stoves used in heating the church. — In 1431 
the great Council began to sit in the Miinster. It consisted of upwards of 
500 clergymen, including many great dignitaries, whose ostensible task 
was a 'reformation of the Church in head and members'; but after having 
disputed for years without any result, and having been excommunicated 
by Pope Eugene IV., it was at last dissolved in 1448. 

The 'Mediaeval Collection, which occupies the three floors of the building 
adjoining the church, is very interesting (open to the public on Sun., 10.30 
to 12.30; at other times adm. '/a fr., on application at Miinster-Platz 13; 
illustrated catalogue in French and German, 1/2 fr., recommended to 
other than hasty visitors, as the attendants cannot give full information). 

Ground Floor. Vestibule: antiquities of the flint period; archi- 
tectural fragments chiefly from churches of Bale; and the '■LciUenkoniij\ 
a curious piece of mechanism not older than the end of the 17th cent., 
formerly on the exterior of the tower (removed in 1839) of the Rhine 
bridge. The later story that this head was erected in derision of 



Museum. HALE. /. Route. 5 

the Austrians to whom Klein-Basel was pledged in 1375-92 is a mere 
myth. — The Waffenhalle , or armoury, contains the chief curiosities 
of the arsenal of Bale; in the middle are interesting cannon of the 
15th and 16th cent. ; to the right, by the window, a suit of armour 
supposed to have belonged to Charles the Bold. — A winding staircase 
ascends to the rooms of the First Floor. In the C'onciliums - Saal , or 
council-hall, the Council of Bale held their sittings in 1431-48. Along the 
walls are arranged numerous casts of mouldings from churches of Bale; 
also eighteen fragments of the famous -Death Dance of Bale , a fresco 
which once adorned the wall of the Dominican burial-ground (taken down 
in 1805), painted early in the 15th century. On a long table in the centre 
are models of buildings in Bale and of castles in the environs ; large winged 
*Altar by J. Strigel of Memmingen (1512). — We next enter the Saal fur 
Profaiiarchitectur, which contains panels, tiles, stone slabs, and other 
fragments from houses in Bale and other parts of Switzerland. — In the 
following room, ihe Saal fur Hausalterthiimer, is a collection of mediaeval 
furniture, tapestry, porcelain, glass, jewel- caskets , and other articles 
for domestic use. Beyond these is the 'Dining-room of the Cottmellor 
Lucas Iseli7i, of Bale, with rich panelling in the choicest woods, 
dating from 1607. The adjoining Gothic Room of 1460 contains a largo 
bedstead of 1510 and other Gothic furniture. "Figures of Adam and Eve, 
carved in box-wood (about 1500). — Two vaulted rooms on this floor 
are devoted to the illustration of the history of Handicrafts : in the first 
are fine specimens of ''Iron work, bindings of books, -Goldsmiths'' models, 
etc. ; in the second, the ecclesiastical treasures remaining after the division 
of the canton in 1833, large guild-vessels, gold ornaments from churches 
of Bale, fragments of stoves, and a collection of tiles. — Halfway up 
to the next floor is a kind of gallery containing a collection of Domestic and 
Kitchen Utensils, chiefly from mediaeval Bale. 

Second Floor. The Saalfiir Mnsikalische Alterthilmer contains interest- 
ing specimens of old musical instruments, showing in particular the deve- 
lopment of the piano and wooden wind-instruments. — In the Saal fiir 
kirchliche AUerthimer are altars, carved wood, bronzes, and an enamelled 
bronze 'Votive Tablet presented by Puchess Isabella of Burgundy in 1433. — 
The Saal fiir Costiime is chiefly devoted to Bale costumes of the 17th and 
ISth centuries. — Lastly, the Saal fiir Rechis- und Staatsalterthiimer con- 
tains the weights and measures of Bale of the 14-lSth centuries. 

On the S. side of the choir are extensive *Cloisters, constructed 
in the 15th cent., restored in 1869-73, and used until recently as 
family burial-places. They extend to the Pfalz, a terrace behind the 
Miinster, 65 ft. ahove the Rhine, planted with chestnuts, and 
affording a pleasing survey of the green river and the distant hills 
of the Black Forest, the outliers of the Jura, and (in clear weather) 
of the Vosges. Behind the Miinster, on the W, side of the cloisters, 
is a statue of (Ecolampadius ; and in the neighbourhood (^Baumlein- 
gasse 18) is the house of Froben and Erasmus. 

In the Augustinergasse, which descends from the Miinsterplatz 
towards the N.W. to the bridge, is the *Museum (PI. E, 3; open 
on Sun., 10.15-12.30, and in summer on Wed., 2-4 o'clock; engrav- 
ings, Thurs. and Sat., 2-5; at other times fee 50 c. for 1 or 2 
persons, 25 c. for each additional pers.), containing a natural history 
collection and (on the upper floor) a picture-gallery and collection 
of antiquities. 

The Picture Gallery is chiefly interesting on account of its collection 
of paintings and drawings bv the vounger Bolbein (b. at Augsburg 1497, 
d. in London 1543), who liVed at Bale in 1515-26 and 1528-32. The 
Staircase is adorned with frescoes of Grea, Flora, and Apollo by BOckliii, 



6 lioule 1. BALE. Museum. 

cartoons by Cuntelius, Schnorr, and Steinle, stained g;lass, and a statue of 
Jason Willi the golden lleecc, in marble, by Schloth. "ITS. Beiuier, Street 
in Capri. — Antk-Uoom. Seven fragments of Holbein's obliterated frescoes 
in the Council Chamber and old and modern copies from them ; painted 
organ-shutters from the Miinster, by Holbein. — Room to tiik left. 
Moi>EKS Swiss .Masteus. To the left: Bocklin, 10. Lady with a green veil, 
15. Life a dream, '"ll. Pieta, ''14. Kaiads, '■'12. Battle of Centavirs; 27. Ed. 
niravdet. Fortune-teller; '21. Ziind, Forest landscape with the Prodigal 
Son; '43. Stejfnn, Forest landscape; Bocklin, "43. Sacred grove, "9. Diana 
hunting; 20. Ziiiid, Harvest; 37. Bm-zaghi-C'attaneo, Tasso and Leonora; 
45. Dielhelm Meyer, Girl of the Valais; Ed. Girardei, 26. Wounded Turcos, 
28. Arabs drinking coUce; 49. Slaebli, River scene; 54. Ruedisiihli, Marshy 
ground; 48. Grab, Pestaloz/.i; 50. S. Oiirand, Wandering musicians; 29. 
Van lifttt/deii, Italian street scene; *35. Gleure, Pentheus pursued by the 
Jlwnads; 51. Bachmanii, Christmas in the Canton of Lucerne; Roller, 32, 
33. Cows at water, 31. Horses on a road through a dale; 57. Castan, Har- 
vest; *18. Anker, Children's breakfast; Vautier, '-16. Rustic debtor com- 
pelled by a rich neighbour and his agent to sell his property, '-17. The 
involuntary confession; 8. Sliickelberg , Earthquake at Bale; '23. Ziind, 
Noon; 24. Ed. Girurdet , Snow-balling; Sliickelberg, *7. The painter's 
children, -6. Marionettes, *5. Festival of St. Mary in the Sabine Mts. ; 2, 
3. Calame , Forest landscapes; 38. Barzaghi-Catlaneo , Lady performing 
music; '9. Anker, Quack; 36. Gleyre, Nymph; "l. Calame, Alpine land- 
scape; 55. Ruedisiihli, Rocky scenery. — 'Dkawings. The cabinets contain 
a rich cnllection. On the walls: 5-13. Schongauer; 15-27a. H. Holbein 
the Elder; *30-32. A. Diirer; 33. //. Schdufelin; 34. H. Sebald Belnim-, -37- 
41. //. Baldting Grien; '44-53 and 58. Nick. Manuel Deutsch; 54-57. Urs 
Graf; "*61-138 and 142. H. Holbein (he Younger. Among the last should 
particularly be observed: HI. F'amily of Sir Thomas More (presented to 
Erasmus), "113. Combat of foot-soldiers, 114. Samuel and Saul, 123-128. 
Feminine costumes of Bale, 91-100. The Passion. Then: 139-141. Ambrose 
Holbein; *152. Nich. Glockendon; 158. Rembrandt; 160. Raphael. In a glass- 
case the original of Holbeiii's Praise of Folly. — Large S.\loox, N. end 
(beautiful view towards the Blauen in fine weather). Continuation of 
Modern Swiss Masters. '-39. Barzaghi - Caltaneo , Fiesco ; 62. Buchser , 
Capuchins and worldlings; ''69. Bocion, The harbour of Ouchy ; 63. Boss- 
hardt, Hans von Hallwyl at the battle of Morat; 64. Veillon, Venice; 
41, 42. Sleffan, Mountain landscapes; 278. Schnorr, 'Domine quo vadis'; 
277. Overbeck, Death of St. Joseph; "40. Zwengauer, Sunset. — Large 
Saloon, 1st section. H. Holbein (he Younger, 6a. and 6b. Schoolmaster''s 
signbiiard %i 1516; -7. Erasmus; 10. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer and 
his wife; *11. Last Supper; 13. Ecce Homo; "'■'14. The Passion in eight 
separate scenes, formerly in the Rathhaus; *15. The dead body of Christ, 
of startling realism; "''16. Portrait of Boniface Amerbach; "17. Erasmus; 
'18. Lais Ciirinthiaca, the portrait of a lady of the noble family of 
OlTenburg; 19. The same lady with Cupid; '-20. Wife and children of 
the painter; 21. A London merchant; 28. Portrait of the printer Frobcii ; 
23, 24. Ambrose Holbein, Portraits of boys; M. GrUnewald , 32. Cruci- 
fixion, 33. Resurrection; Hans Laldung Grien, 34. Crucifixion, 35. Nati- 
vity, 36. 37. Pictures wiih figures of Death; 41-43. N. Manuel Deutsch; 
.58, 59. Tob. Slimmer, Full-length portraits of Jac. Schwytzer and his wife 
(1.564). — 2nd Section. 65-72. School of Gerrit van S(. Jans; Dutch Mas- 
ters of the 15th cent., 73. Pius Joachim. 74. Coronation of the Virgin; 
101-3. Lucas Cranach (he Elder; 109. H. met de Bles('!), Adoration of the 
Magi. — 3rd Section. "118. Rubens, Christ bearing the cross (a sketch); 
'12i4. Peter Thys, Pieta ; 125. Dirk van SandvooH, Woman singing and flute- 
player ; 126. /. 13. Weenix, Italian landscape; 137. Kavel dii Jardin, Trum- 
jieter on horseback; 13S. Berghem, Cattle crossing a ford; 139. C. Dusarl, 
Rustic scene; 144. Rombonls, Forest scene; 146. S. Ilnysdael , Landscape; 
"156. Dutch Master, Forest scene; 165. (Jld copy of Raphael's Joanna of 
.\ragon. — 5ti! Section. 265. Jos. Koch. Macbeth and the witches; Leopold 
Robert, 288. Bandils' wives in flight, 289. Wounded bandit and his .wife; 
290. Aur. Robert, Interior of St. Mark's at Venice; 292-296. J. Frey, South- 



Kathlmus. BALK. 1. Route. 7 

ern landscapes; '300. Diday, Scene on the Lake of Bricnz ; 30. Landerer, 
Federal representatives entering Bale in 1501 to administer tlie federal 
oath to the town; 306. Lessing, Forest landscape; 307. Feuerhach^lHyl. — 
Sculptures in the picture-gallery: Antique heads of Apollo and Hercules; 
Ivihof, Rebecca; Kissling, Kunner; Sc/ilee(h, Psyche (marble statues). — 
MoDEKN Drawings (line old inlaid council-table). 2-23. Iless, Schraudolji/i, 
and J. C. Koch, Cartoons for the frescoes in St. Boniface at Munich; cartoons 
by Overbeck (26-35), Schwind (36-40), Genelli (41, 43), /. C. Koch (59, 50), 
Cornelius (51, 52; drawings for the Last Judgment), etc. 

Collection of Antiquities. In the first room are casts, coins and 
medals, and a handsome antique cabinet. In the next room are vases, 
mosaics, and other antiquities, chiefly found near Angst (p. 3). On the 
ground-floor a room containing Mexican, Chinese, and Japanese antiqui- 
ties; in the following room are various objects from lake-dwellings. 

The University Library in the same building (open 10-12 and 2— i) 
contains about 200,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. ; among the latter are 
the transactions of the Council, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc. 
The LWyersiii/ (350 students), founded in 1459 by Pius II. , was 
once famous for its mathematicians BernouilU, Merian, and Euter. 
The hall contains upwards of 100 portraits of scholars of Bale, 
including the cosmographer Sebastian Munster (d. 1552), the re- 
formers (Ecolampadius and Grynaeus, and the theologians, DeWette 
(d. 1849) and Alex. Vintt (d. 1847). In front of the aula are ten mar- 
ble busts, by Schloth, of professors of Bale of the present century. 

The Kathhaus(Pl. D, 3), or Town Hall, in the Market-place 
(No. 13), was erected in 1504, and restored in 1824-28. The hand- 
some ^Council Hall in the interior is adorned with carvings and 
stained glass. The court contains a Statue of Munatius Plancus 
(p. 3), erected here in 1580. 

The old fortifications have been almost entirely removed , and 
their site converted into promenades ; but the handsome Spalen- 
Thor (PI. C, 3), on the W. side of the town, erected about the 
year 1400, the St. Albansthor (PI. G, 5) on the S. , and the St. 
Johannthor (PI. C, 1) on the N., have been restored. In the Hebel- 
Str., near the Spalenthor, is the house where Hebel (1760-182G) 
was born, with a tablet. 

Other Medieval Structures deserving mention are the late-Go- 
thic Fishmarket Fountain (PI. D, 3), of the 15th cent., restored in 
1851 ; the Spalen Fountain, with a bagpiper supposed to have been 
designed by Holbein ; the liebhuus Fountain, in the Riehenthor- 
Strasse (PI. F, 3; the pillars of the last, which had become injured 
by time, have been replaced by faithful copies); and the Roman 
archway in the old St. Alban's Monastery (PI. F, 4). — The Bar- 
fiisser-Kirche (PI. D, E, 4), dating from the beginning of the 
14th cent., with its very lofty choir, is now used as a storehouse. 

— The Church of St. Martin (PI. I). H), was restored in 1851, 
when the choir was skilfully adapted as a Protestant place of worship. 

— The large Gothic (Rom. Oath.) Church of St. Clara (PI. E, 2) at 
Klein-Basel has been recently restored. 

Foremost among the Modern Buildings of Bale is the Gothic 
*St. Elisabethenkirche (PI. E, 5), erected by Hr. Meriau-Burck- 



8 Route 1. BALE. 

liardt (d. 1858). The interior is worth seeing;, especially the fine 
stained glass from Munich. — Near it, on the Steinenberg, is the 
Eunsthalle (PI. IZ, 6; built by Stelilin; adm. 50 c), containing a 
collection of modern pictures and sculptures. Connected with it are 
a large garden and a restaurant, the latter adorned with good mural 
paintings by Brunner. On the staircase are frescoes by Stiickelberg. 
Between the St. Elisabethenkirche and the Kunsthalle is the new 
Sculpturhalle , containing plaster-casts. Next the Kunsthalle is the 
Theatre, opposite which is the Musiksaal, both designed by Stehlin. 
To the N. W. of the Petersplatz (PL C, 3) is the Bernoallianum, 
belonging to the university, an edifice for the study of physics, 
chemistry, and astronomy. The Vesalianum, to the S.W. , is the 
new University institute for anatomy and physiology. 

The Zoological Garden (PI. B, C, 6) , adjoining the 'Nachti- 
gallcnwaldchen', outside the site of the Steinenthor, and about 2/4 M. 
from the Central Station (adm. ^/o-i fr.}, contains admirable 
examples of Swiss (mountain goats) and other animals. Concerts 
are frequently given on Sun. afternoons. 

The Konument of St. Jacob (PI. F, 6), near the Snmmer- Casino 
(p. 3), by i^. Scliloih, completed in 1872, commemorates the heroism and 
death of 1300 Confederates who opposed the Anuagnac invaders under 
the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XI.) in 1444. Above is Helvetia in armour, 
with a wreath ; on the pedestal are four falling warriors in marble. In- 
scription : 'Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy W 

The Missionary Institutions of Bale are deservedly in high repute. 
The Mission House (PI. B, 3) educates missionaries for the promulgation 
of Christianity. It contains an interesting ethnographical collection from 
the E. Indies and W. Africa, and two large models of the Temple area 
and Great Slosque at Jerusalem. — In the neighbourhood are several 
charitable institutions: the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Riehen, 3 M. to 
the N.E., the missionary institution on the Chrischona (1722'), 4 M. to the E., 
with splendid view, and the Reformatory at Bewjoen ^ 12 M. to the E. 
(p. 22). — An excellent Society for the Promotion of the Public Welfare, 
which has e.\isted at Bale for more than a century , has a very extensive 
sphere of operation. 

From Balk to Fluiien, 8 M., railway (Birsigthalbahn) in 50 minutes. 
The train, starting from the local station in the Steinenthor-Str. (PI. D, 5), 
passes the Zoological Garden (see above), and traverses the attractive and 
fertile valley of the Birsiy. Stations: IVi M. Binningen ("Ilirsch; *Bar), a 
large village with 4700 inhab. and the church f)f St. Margaret, commanding 
a good view; PJt M. Botlminger-Miihle; 21/2 M. Bottmingen, with the Bott- 
minger SchlOtschen (inn and pretty park), a favourite resort; 3 M. Oberuyl 
(''Krone), with an extensive parquetry-factory; 41/4 M. Therwyl (Hossli), 
a substantial village in the Leimenthal. The line now bends to the S. to 
(5V2 M.) Etiingen (Badhaus), with a chalybeate spring, and thence skirts 
the font of the mountains to the right via Witterswyl and Bdttwyl to (8 M.) 
Fluhen (1250'; Inn and Baths), a small village with a chalybeate spring, 
prettily situated in a recess of the valley at the foot of the Blanen. An 
attractive excursion may be made to the W, from this point, via the Al- 
satian village of Tannwald to the (IV2 M.) well-preserved ruin of *Landskron 
(1890 ft.), the tower of which commands a wide view (key at the last house 
in Tannwald). — A road leads to the S. from Fliihen to (I1/2M.) Mariastein 
(IGSrV ; Kreuz; Post), formerly a Benedictine abbey, with a frequented 
pilgrimage-church, picturesquely situated on a steep crag. A spacious rock 
cavern beneath the church contains the chapel of Maria im Stein. From 
Mariastein the Landskron may be reached via Tannwald in 25 minutes. — 



MUNSTERTHAL. i>. Route. 

The road goes on beyond Mariastein to Melzerlcn and (2'/4 M.) ISiirff (1735'; 
■inn), a charmingly-situated village with a mineral spring and a chateau 
commanding line views. — The Blauen (2j'J0'), which may he ascended 
from Ettingen (p. 8) or Mariastein in I1/2 hr., commands a wide prospect, 
extending on the S.E. to the Bernese Alps. 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the 
Miinsterthal. 

77 M. Railway (Jura, Bern, d- Lucerne Line) to Bienne (56 M.) in 3-4 
hr.s. (fares 11 fr. 30, 9fr. 90, 5fr. 65 c.); from Bienne to Bern (21 M.) in I-I1/4 
hr. (fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 90 c). [Railwav from Bienne to Neuchatel 
(20 M.) in 3/4 -I'A lir. ; to Geneva (102 M.) in 51/4-71/4 hrs.; from Bale to 
Geneva, e.xpress in 73/.i hrs. Through-carriages to Geneva and St. Maurice.] 

The Kunsterthal, watered by the Birs , is the grandest and most in- 
teresting valley in the whole Jura range. It consists of a succession of 
defiles and narrow gorges, with pine-clad banks, while the broader basins 
are enlivened with meadows, villages, mills, and factories. This valley, 
which belongs to the ancient bishopric of Bale, aflforded the Romans a 
route between Aventicmn (Avenches, see p. 203), the most important town of 
Helvetia, and Angusia Rauracoru-m (Augst, see p. 3), one of their ad- 
vanced posts on the Rhine. The railway through this beautiful valley 
forms a most interesting approach from Bale to Western Switzerland. 

Bale (870'), see p. 2. Leaving the Central Station, the train 
soon diverges from the Central Line (p. 12) to the right, passes the 
cemetery on the right, and near (3 M.) Monchenstein crosses the 
Birs. On the hills to the left are several ruined castles. — 5 M. 
Dornach-Arleshehn (Munzinger's Restaurant), near the hamlet of 
Dornach-Brugg (*Ochs). On a wooded hill, li '2 M. to the E., near 
Arlesheim [1130 ft. ; Lowe ; Ochs), rises Schloss Birseck, once a cha- 
teau of the bishops of Bale, with a pleasant park, interesting grottoes, 
and a hermitage. (Apply to the gardener at the foot of the hill.) 

The train follows the right bank of the Birs. On the left is the 
village of Dornach, with its picturesque ruined castle. 7 M. Aesch 
(Ochs), a village on the left bank. The valley contracts. The train 
passes through a tunnel under the modernised chateau of Angen- 
stein, and enters the canton of Bern. On a hill to the right is the 
picturesque ruin oi Pfeffingen (1850'). On the right, near (9'/4M.) 
Grellingen (*Bar), are several factories. The train passes through a 
deep cutting and crosses the Birs twice; the valley then expands. 
Schloss Zicingen., on the right, was the seat of the episcopal governors 
of the district, down to the first French revolution. 

I41/.2M. Laufen(1155'; -Sonne) lies at the confluence of the Z/ufzei 
and Birs. The train traverses a narrow, wooded valley. Beyond 
(16 M.) Bdrschwyl it passes through two tunnels and crosses the 
Birs twice. I81/2M. Liesberg. At (22'/2 M.) iS^au^ern, Fr.-Soj//iieres 
(Hotel de la Gare) the language changes from German to French. 
On the right is the ruined castle of that name. At the rocky egress of 
the valley, before its expansion into a broad plain, lies Bellerive, on 
the left, now a factory. On a hill to the right is the ruin of Vorburg. 

241 2 M. Helemont, Ger.Delsberg (1430'; *Faucon,- *0«rs, mod- 
erate; Lion d'Or; Hotel de la Gare, at the station; *Rail. Restau- 



10 lioutelK MiJNSTER. From lirUe 

rant) is an old town (3507 inhab.) on the Some, with a chateau of 
the former Bishops of Bale. 

Fkom DklIiMonx to PoRUENTKur, 18 M., railway in ^/t-V/t hr. (fares 
3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 80 c). The line traverses the grassy valley of the 
Some. Stations Coitrtetelle , Cour/aivre , Bassecourt, and (T'/z BI.) Qlovelier, 
Ger. LieUngen. We next cross the large viaduct of Combe Maran, and 
beyond a tunnel, 3200 yds. in length, and two others, reach (11 M.) Ste. 
Ursanne (-Deux Clefs,- Bu.'uf), a picturesque^ old town in the romantic 
valley of the Doubs (p. 194), with a ruined chateau on a lofty rock. An- 
other tunnel pierces the Monl Terrible. Stat. Courgenay. Then (18 M.) 
Forrentruy, Ger. Pruntrul (1457'; 'Ours; -Cheval Blanc), a considerable 
liiwn (5614 inhab.) with an old chateau, once the residence of the Bishops 
of Bale. XiliicUre, 7 M. to the \V. of Porrentruy, near the French frontier, 
a large stalactite grotto has recently been discovered and made accessible. 
— The line leads hence to Delle, the French frontier-station, Bel/orl, and 
I'aris (express from Bale to Paris in O'A-ll hrs.). 

The line traverses the valley towards the S.E. , and beyond 
('26' A> M..} CourrendUn, Ger. Bennendorf (Cerf), enters the *Mun- 
sterthal, Fr. VaL Moutier, a wild, romantic ravine of the Birs, flanked 
witli huge limestone rocks. The line is carried through these 'Gorjres 
de Moulier by means of a series of tunnels, galleries, and viaducts. 
(A walk from Courrendlin to Miinster is recommended.) Above 
(281/2 J^^O Choindez, and opposite the Glass Works of Roche, which 
lie on the right bank of the stream, Ave traverse a tunnel, 100 yds. 
in lengtli, and reach (291/2 M.) Roche (1650'; *Cheval Blanc, 
moderate). The train threads five short tunnels in rapid succession, 
crosses the Birs by a lofty bridge, and then, at the mouth of the 
defile, the Rausbach. 

32 M. Miinster, Fr. Moutier [il^O' ; * Hotel de la Gare, moderate). 
The thriving village (1750'; *Cerf; Couronne; Cheval), with 2320 
inhab. and a new Protestant church, is prettily situated in a green 
dale, on the left bank of the Birs. 

Ascent of the Weissenstkin erom Mijnstek (3'/2 hrs.-, comp. p. 15). 
About 10 min. to the N.E. of Miinster, or 6 min. from the station, at the 
Reslauranl Speriseii (good beer), a road (diligence to St. .Joseph daily at 
2.55 p.m. in 1 hr.) ascends to the right to (2 Si.) Grarifelden (Fr. Orandval, 
2010') and (Vi M.) Crimiiie (20G6' ; Croix). It next ascends the gorge of the 
Raus to (2 BI.) Si. Joseph am Odnsbrunnen (Inn), at the N. base of the 
Weissenstein , the Kurhaus on which (p. 15) may easily be reached hence 
by the road in 1Vj-2 hrs. The footpath to the left is shorter (l'/-2 hr.). 
^Carriage from Miinster to the Weissenstein 25 fr., there and back 30 fr.; 
from Giinsbrunnen 15 fr.) 

The line traverses another wild and very picturesque gorge, 
tlic Roches de Court , high above the Birs , and beyond a long 
tunnel reaches (So'/o M.) Court (2200'; Ours; Couronne). 

From Court, or better from Bevilard (see below), a steep path crosses 
the Montoz (4370') to (3 hrs.) Reiichenette (p. 11; guide advisable). View 
similar to that from the Weissenstein. 

We traverse pleasant grassy dales , pass Sorvilier, Malleray- 
BeiHldrd, and Reconritier, and reach — 

427.2 M. Tavannes, tier. Dachsfelden (2500'; Hotel de la Gare, 
well spoken ol'J, a large village at the source of the Birs (branch- 
line in 35 mill, to Tniuielan). The train ascends slightly, and pass- 
es under the Pierre Pertuis by means of a tunnel (1500 yds.). 



to Bern. BIENNE. 2. Route. 1 1 

The Pierre Pertuis (pelra 2'erlusa;2o^^'), through which the high-road 
pusses, is a natural opening in the rock, 30-40' high, and more than 
once fortified in time of war. It bears a restored Roman inscription on 
the N. side, which cannot be earlier than A.D. 161. This defile, the 
highest point between Tavannes and Sonceboz, marked the limit of the 
Helvetian province, and afterwards that of the bishoprics of Avenches, 
Lausanne, and Bale. 

The train descends the slope to the right, describes a sharp curve 
between Sombeval and Corgemont, and crosses the Suze (or Scheussy 

47 M. Sonceboz (2152'; Couronne; Cerf, well spoken ot), the 
junction for La Chaux-de-Fonds (see p. 193). 

The train crosses the Suze, and passes through a tunnel under 
the S.W. spur of the Montoz (p. 10). The stream is crossed several 
times In its beautiful wooded valley. oQi/o M. La Hcutte; 53 M. 
Reuchenette (1942'; Inn, excellent trout). The line now suddenly 
turns towards the S., and enters the narrow passage which the Suze 
has forced through the last heights of the Jura range. Four tunnels 
between this point and Bienne. On the right beyond the first tunnel 
is a fall of the Suze, and on the hill is the ruined chateau of Rond- 
chatel. Two more tunnels. Pleasant view of the green valley of 
Orvin to the right. Beyond another long tunnel the train crosses 
the deep and wild ravine of the "iiMze ( Tauhenloch)\>y a lofty bridge, 
and quits the ravine. We now obtain a striking view of the rich 
plains of Bienne , with the whole of the Alpine chain from the 
mountains of Unterwalden to Mont Blanc in the distance. We then 
descend vine-clad slopes to — 

56 M. Bienne, Ger. Biel (1444'; *H6tel de Bienne, near the station, 
K., L., & A. 21/2, B. 11/4, D. 3 fr. ; *H6t. Suisse, R. 21/2, B. 1 fr. ; 
Couronne; Croix; *Vaisseau, on the lake; *Rail. Restaurant^ an an- 
cient and thriving town (15,226 inhab.). The Museum Schwab, 
founded by Col. Schwab, and presented by him to the town, is 
an interesting collection of antiquities from the lake-villages, 
Celtic and Roman weapons, implements, coins, etc. (open on Sun. 
and Thurs., 2-4; at other times on application). The beautiful 
avenues enclosing the town stretch to the N. end of the Lake of 
Bienne, as far as (1 M.) Nidau , with its old chateau, near the 
efflux, of the Zihl or Thiele (p. 190). Tramway from the station into 
the town, to Nidau, and to the N. to Buzingen (Fr. Boujean). 

A Wire-Rope Railway (station 7 min. to the N.W. of the railway 
station at Bienne. where an omnibus is waiting) ascends in 20 min. to the 
Kurhaus of 'Macolin, Ger. Magglingen (2960'; K., L., &. A. 4, I). 4, pens. 
S-11 fr.), splendidly situated on the slopes of the Jura, I'/i hr. above 
Bienne, and noted for its fine air. Large wooded grounds, and fine view 
of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont Blanc. English Church Service in 
summer. — Ascent of the Chasseval (5-6 hrs.), see p. 190. 

From Bienne to Soleiire, see p. 16; to Neuchdtel and Genera, see R. 53. 

The Railway from Biknne to Bkhn crosses the Zihl near 
(58V2M.) Brihjij, and the Aare before (61 M.) Busswyl. 

63 M. Lyss (Jlirsch ,• Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of the lines 
to Payerne oil the S. (p. 204) and to Solcure on the N. (p. 16). — 64 '/i M. 



12 Routed. LIKSTAL. From n,Ue 

Subeuj ; G<S M. Schupfen ; 71 M. Miinchen-ISuclisee (*li<')t. Kwcli ; 
Krone; Bilr), the scat of the cantonal seminary, which was trans- 
ferred in 1885 to the former institute of E. v. Fellenberg zXHofwyl, 
situated 1/2 M. to the E. On the right, the Bernese Alps from the 
Jungfrau to the Balmhorn become visible , but soon disappear. — 
73 M. ZoUikofen, a station on the Central Line (Bale-Herzogcn- 
buchsee-Bern). Thence to (77 M.) Bern, see p. 17. 

3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure. 

63 M. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 90, 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 45 c). 

Bale, see p. 2. The train crosses the Birs. 3 M. Muttene. 5 M. 
Pralteln, the junction for Ziirich (p. 17). On the Rhine, I'/a M. to 
the N.W. (branch-railway in 10 min.) are the well-equipped salt- 
baths of Schweizerhalle. 

The line leaves the valley of the Rhine, enters the Jura Mts. 
and follows the left bank of the Ergolz. Near (71/2 M.) Nieder- 
Schonthal, on a hill to the right, lies Frenkendorf (ii20' ; Wilder 
Mann; Liiwe), a pretty summer-resort. The best carriage -road 
to (21/4 M.) Bad Schaueiiburg (see below) leads hence. Near Liestal, 
on the loft, is the large prison of Canton Basel-Land, and beyond 
it the Cantonal Hospital. 

9 M. Liestal (1033'; 4848 inh.; *Falke, with salt-baths and 
garden, pens, from 4fr.; Schliissel; Engel ; Sonne^, prettily situated 
on the Eryolz, is the seat of government of the half-canton of Basel- 
Land, or Bale-Campagne. In the council-hall is shown the cup of 
Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the battle of Nancy (1477). 
The collection of coins contains Roman and Swiss specimens. — 
Btenenfterjr (Kurhaus, with salt-baths), I'^M. to the N.W. of Liestal, 
is a pleasant summer -resort, and about 11/2 M. beyond it is Bad 
Schauenburg (1590'), below the ruin of the same name (1975' ; 
*View). — Carriage-road to Nieder-Schcinthal, see above. 

To Waldenbukg, 8'/2 M , narrow-frauge railway in 1 hr., through the 
pretty Frenkeiithal. I^j'i M. Bad Biibendorf, with mineral and salt baths. 
(The village with its ruined castle lies 1 M. to the right.) 4 M. Lampenberg ; 
5V2 M- Ilolstein, in a narrow part of the valley, with manufactories of 
silk ribbon. Passing Niedeidorf and Oberdorf, wc reach (81/2 M.) Walden- 
burg (1718'; Liiwe; Hililiisstl), a little town with a ruined castle and a 
pretty church. A good road leads hence (diligence 4 times daily in 50 min.) 
to (3 M.) Langenbruck ( Kurhaus, pens. 6-8 fr., with its dependancc 
Oclisen ; Pens. Bider, etc.), sitiiated on the pass of the Obere Hauensteiii 
(2355'), a (juict and pleasant hill sanatorium. — A high-road leads from 
Langenbruck to the S.K. to Fridau and (5 M.) Egerkinyen (p. 14); another 
to the S.W. to Jlolderbank, Balsilial, and through the Klus, a deiile for- 
merly fortified, with the picturesque ruin of Falkenstein and the restored 
chateau of Bechburg, to (10'/i> M.) Oensingen (p. 14). 

11 M. Lausen. Near (13 M.) Sissach (1233'; Lowe), a thriv- 
ing village, we pass (r.) the small chateau and park of Ebenrain. 
Fine view from the Sissncher Fiuh (2398'), 1 hr. to the N. 

From Sissach over the Schafmatt to Aarau (IS'/z M.). By diligence 
to Oltingen in 2 hrs., via (2'/4 M.) Gellerkinden (1370'; *R6ssli), a manu- 



to Bienne. OLTEN. .7. lioiite. 13 

facturing village ; thence through a picturesque valley to the Hanggiessen 
waterfall; (IV2 M-) Tecknau (1440'); to (IV2 M.) Wenslingen (I860') a steep 
ascent; (iV2 M.) Oltingen (1942'; Ochs), with a mineral spring. The path 
ascending the (Vzhr.) -Schafmatt (2516') diverges close to the 'Ochs', and 
is easily found, being provided with finger-posts. The summit commands 
an extensive panorama of the Jura and the Alps, which we enjoy until we 
reach a point overlooking the deep valley of Rohr. Turning to the left 
here, we reach the upper part of a meadow, at the foot of which ('/2 hr. 
from the top) lies a chalet and whey-cure establishment. From this point 
we enjoy a view of the environs of the Lake of Lucerne, the Rigi, Pi- 
latus, etc., framed by the mountains between which we stand. From the 
chalet to Aarau (p. 21) in I'/j hr., past the Laurenzenhad (p. 21), situated 
in a side-valley to the left, and Erlishach. 

To the S. of Sissach lies (7 M.; diligence twice daily in IV4 hr. 
via Zunzgeii, Tennikeyi, and Biegten) Eptingen or Rtich-Eptingen (1873'; 
ICurhaus, with saline and mineral baths ; pens. 4-5 fr.) , situated in a 
narrow valley at the base of the Hauenslein (footpath to Ldufelfingen, see 
below, Ihr.; to Langenbnick, see above, li,4 hr.). 

The train quits the Ergolzthal, turns to the S. into the narrow 
and picturesque Homhurger Thai, and heyond (16 M.) Som- 
merau passes through two tunnels. iQ^'o M. Ldufelfingen (^2008'; 
Sonne), at the foot of the Hauenstein. 

On the summit of the Hauenstein, ascended in 3/^ hr. from stat. Laufel- 
fingen via Reisen and Erlimous (each of which has a Kurhaus), is situated 
the 'Frohburg (2772'; "Hotel <{■ Pension, R. 2\'i, B. I'A, pens. 6-7 fr.), 
commanding a beautiful view of the Alps, from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ; 
in the foreground the Wartburg (see below) and the Wiggerthal with the 
railway to Lucerne ; on the right rises Pilatus, on the left the Rigi. About 
10 niin. from the inn are some scanty ruins of a castle destroyed by an 
earthquake. Descent by Trimhach in 1 hr. to Olten. 

The train now enters the Hauenstein Tunnel, 29T0 yds. long, 
during the construction of which in 1857 sixty -three workmen 
were buried by a fall of earth. Beyond it we observe on a hill to 
the right the small chateau of Neu- Wartburg (see below), to the 
right of which, farther on, the Bernese Alps gradually become vis- 
ible from the Wetterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The train descends 
by a long curve to the Aare, crosses it, and ascends on the right 
bank to the station of ■ — 

241/2 M. Olten. — -Hotel Suisse, at the station, I?. 2, B. 1 fr.; 
Hotel Wiss, moderate; Halbmond. — 'Rail. Restaurant. 

Carriages generally changed here. Detention of '/4-'/2 hr. As we leave 
the waiting-rooms, the trains for Bale and Ziirich are to the left, those to 
Lucerne and Bern to the i-ight. Pocket-picking not uncommon here. 

Olten (1296'; 4900 inhab.), the second town in the canton of 
Soleure, prettily situated on the Aare, is the junction of the lines 
to Aarau and Brugg (R. 7), to Aarburg and Lucerne (R. 6), to 
Bern (R. 4), and to Soleure and Neuchatel (see below). The Parish 
Church contains an Ascension by Disteli, and the Capuchin Church 
a Madonna by Deschwanden. Extensive railway work-shops and 
large shoe-manufactories. 

To the S.E. of Olten, on an isolated hill on the right bank of the Aare, 
rises the Neu-Wartburg or Sdlisc/iloss (2237'; 'Reslanraiil), a small chateau 
recently restored. View similar to that from the Frohburg (see above). Good 
paths from Olten and from Aarburg to the top in 3/i hr. 

About 41/2 M. to the N.E. of Olten (<liligence twice daily in summer 
in l'/i hr.) are the sulphur- baths of Lostorf (' Kurhaus, moderate, pens. 



1 4 Rotde 3. SOLEURE. From Brde. 

5 fr.), prettily situated at the foot of the Jura. On a cliff above {"< hr.) 
rises the small chateau of Warten/els (2060'), with a line view. 

P.eyoiul Olteii the train diverges to the right from the Rem and 
Lucerne line (p. 10). crosses the Aare, and traverses the plain 
watered by the Diinnern, at the base of the Jura. To the left the 
view of the Alps from the Gliirnisch to the Altels is gradually un- 
folded. 26 m. OUen-Hammer; 27 '/j M. Wangen; 29 M. Hdgen- 
dorf; 31 M. Eyerkingen (Kreuz). 

Diligence twice daily in 40 min. to Fridau (2300'; 'Kur/iaus, pens. 
5'/2-6 fr.), situated on the slope of the .hira, and well fitted up. Beautiful 
view of the Alps from Sentis to Mont Blanc. Shady grounds and extensive 
wood-walks. The road also leads to Lant/enbi'uck, 3 31. farther (see p. 12; 
diligence in summer daily). 

32 M. Oherbuchsiten ; 36 M. Oensingen (diligence twice daily 
in 1^/4 hr. to Langenbruck , p. 12); 37 M. Niederbipp (to the right 
of which is Oberbipp , with a handsome modern chateau). At 
(41 M.) Wangen the train crosses the Aare. Beyond Deitingen and 
Luterbach we obtain a view of Soleure with the minster of St. Ours ; 
to the right are the Riithe and the Kurhaus on the Weissenstein 
(p. 15). The train crosses the Grosse Emme, not far from its con- 
fluence with the Aare. — 47 M. Neu-Solothurn. 

Soleure. — Soleure has two Kailwat Stations : Neu-Solothurn^ on 
the right bank of the Aare f V2 M. from the new Aare bridge), and AU- 
JSolothiirn, on the left bank, to the W. of the town. The Cathedral is 
reached from either in 8 min., but for a visit to the town and the Weissen- 
stein the station of Alt-Solothurn is on the whole more favourably situated. 

Hotels. "^ Krone, R., L., & A. 3, B. IV4, D. 3 fr. ; Adler ; Hirsch ; 
Thurm; Kreuz, R. 2, B. 1 fr. — Restaurant Wengistein, 1/2 M. to the N.E., 
near the 'Hermitage' (p. 16), with a garden and pleasant view. 

Soleure, OT Solothurn (1424'; 8300 inhab.), on the Aare, a quiet 
place, the capital of Canton Soleure , was incorporated with the 
Confederation in 1481, and claims to be the oldest town on this side 
of the Alps next to Treves. (^In Celtis nihil est Salodoro antiquius, 
unis exceptis Treviris, quaruxn ego dicta sorof, is the inscription 
on the clock-tower.) It was the Roman Salodurum, once a flourishing 
settlement. The old ramparts have been almost entirely removed. 

The Cathedral of St. Oues, a cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale 
(p. 4), was built in 1762-73 on the site of an edifice of 1050, in the 
form of a cross, surmounted with a dome and two half-domes. A 
flight of 30 steps leads to the facade. One of the adjoining foun- 
tains is adorned with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other 
with a figure of Gideon wringing the dew from the fleece. The ten 
large altar-pieces, dating from the latter half of the 18th cent., are 
unimportant. The treasury, in the sacristy, contains some good 
artistic work in metal and textile fabrics, chiefly of the 16-i8th 
centuries. 

The *AiiSKNAL, not far from the cathedral, contains the arms 
of the cantonal militia, and on the second floor a collection of an- 
cient armour, halberds, swords, Are -arms, and standards, taken 
by the Confederates from the Atistrians, Bnrgnndians, and others. 



to Biennr. WEISSENSTEIN. 3. Jinnte. 1 5 

Among the curiosities is a mitrailleuse of the loth cent., adjoin- 
ing which is an automaton. A large plastic group close to the en- 
trance represents the reconciliation of the Confederates effected 
at the Diet of Stans in 1481 by Nicholas von der Fliie (p. 1 18), from 
a drawing by Disteli (d. 1844). 

The oldest building in Soleure is the Clock Tower, recently 
restored, which is said to have been erected in the 4th century B.C., 
but is really an early Burgundian building of the 5th or 6th cent. 
A.D. The figures and mechanism of the clock are similar to those 
at Bern (p. 134). 

The Natural History Cabinet, in the suburb on the right bank of 
the Aare, contains valuable collections of zoology and palteontology. 
In the Cantonal School are a number of Roman and Medi(Tval An- 
tiquities and the Cantonal Library. The Town Library contains 
about 40,000 vols, and 200 incunabula, besides coins and medals. 
The Municipal Picture Gallery, founded by the Kunstverein, possess- 
es a *Virgin and Child, with SS. Ours and Martin of Tours, by 
Holbein the Younger (1522). 

The ■'Weissenstein (4220'), 3 hours' walk or drive to the N. of So- 
leure, is deservedly a very favourite point of view. It is reached either 
by the carriage - road via Ldngendorf and Oherdorf (two -horse carr. in 
2'/2 hrs., 20 fr. and fee), or (preferable) by the footpath (guide or porter 
4-5 fr.) ascending the Verenathal. Taking the latter, we pass the cathe- 
dral of St. Ours, and through the handsome Bale gate, and then bear to 
the left towards the Villa Cartier with its two towers, where we turn 
to the right. Farther on we enter the avenue to the left, at the end of 
which we turn to the right towards the church of St. Nicholas. Before 
reaching the church our route passes the Restaurant Wengistein (p. 14) 
and turns to the left into the *St. Verenathal (1 31. from Soleure), a 
narrow, cool, and shady ravine, ','2 M. in length. The path to the left, at 
the beginning of the gorge, leads to the Wengistein (see below). At the 
other end of the valley are quarries of Portland limestone, where interesting 
fossils are found. The blocks of granite on the neighbouring slopes are 
believed by geologists to have been deposited by ancient Alpine glaciers. 
This gorge is now converted into a promenade. 

At the N. end of the ravine is the Hermitage of St. Verena. On 
the right are the hermit's dwelling and a chapel; on the left is a rock- 
hewn chapel, reached bj' a broad flight of steps, and containing a repre- 
sentation of the holy sepulchre with life-size figures. We may now ascend 
by the chapel to the crosses, pass near the large marble quarries, and tra- 
verse the wood to the Wengistein, the view from which is similar to that 
from the Weissenstein, though on a smaller scale. A huge granite boulder 
here bears a Latin inscription recording two memorable events in the history 
of Soleure. 

From the restaurant beyond the hermitage we ascend to the right, in 
the direction of the Weissenstein ; and at (10 min.) the village of Widlis- 
hach, turn to the left and cross the hill to (12 min.) the hamlet of Fa Hern 
(1827'), at the foot of the Weissenstein. Above it we enter the wood to 
the left by a finger-post, ascend gradually, and then in steep zigzags to 
the (40 min.) first bench, above which there are several others. The path 
soon quits the wood and ascends an abrupt rocky gully, partly by means of 
steps. Farther up, the ascent is through wood and more gradual. In 
40 min, we regain the road (to the left) above the KesseWoden Alp fiAiV). 
and following it, reach in 40 min. more the -Kurhaus on the Yordere 
Weissenstein (U., L., & A. 3'/*, B. IV4, D. 31/2, S. 2, pension 8 fr.), a sana- 
torium surrounded by woods and pastures, and much resorted to in summer 
(English Church service in summer). The footpath, diverging to the right 



10 Routed. AARRURO. From B ale 

at the end of the wide cui-ve, 8 min. from the Nesselboden Alp, and then 
ascending abruptjy to the left at the post on the top, 13 a short-cut. 

The -ViKW is less jiicturesque, but more extensive than that from 
the Rigi; and no spot commands a better view of the whole Alpine 
chain from the Tyrol to Mont Blanc. To the E. are distinguished the 
Sentis, the Gliirnisch , with the Rigi in the foreground, the Todi between 
the Rigi and Pilatus , the lofty saddle of Titlis, and the Sustenhorn; 
beyond Soleure are the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, 
Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp, and Doldeuhorn ; then the Balmhorn, 
Altels, Wildstrubel, Wildhorn, Diablerets, and to the S.W. Mont Blanc. 
To the S.W. glitter the lakes of Bienne, Morat, and Neuchatel; the Aare 
winds to the S. through the fertile plains, and the Grosse Emme flows into 
it at the foot of the mountain. 

Pleasant walk to the W. through the wood to the (10min.)7^aw^e^* (4093'J. 
— The Kothe (4588'J, '/s hr. to the E. of the hotel, commands an extensive 
view to the N. and E. of the Black Forest and Vosges, which are hid- 
den from the Weissenstein , and affords a good survey of the pictur- 
esque mountains and valleys of the Jura. — Towards the W. the view 
is concealed by the 'Hasenmatt (4746'), i^/t hr. from the hotel, whence 
an uninterrupted panorama may be enjoyed. The path to it leads across the 
pastures to the W. to (25 min.) the Hintere Weissenstein (4027'; Inn). A 
pleasanter route leads by the shady footpath, which enters the woods to the 
right above the pastures, but which must be quitted as soon as it begins 
to ascend more steeply. Shortly before reaching the Hintere Weissenstein 
we descend a little to the left and cross the ridge to (20 min.) the end 
of the meadows ; then descend for 1/4 hr. in the Kesselioald, and ascend across 
more pastures to (20 min.) the chalet of A Uhiisli (4375'; simple rfmts.), 
on the saddle, with a good spring. An easy path leads hence to the 
summit in 20 min. (the path, diverging to the left, 10 min. before the 
chalet, is shorter but steeper). — We may descend from the Hasenmatt 
or the chalet on the S.side, pass Lmnmistcyl , and regain Soleure, or the 
nearer station of Selzach (see below). Those returning from the Kurhaus 
to Soleure follow the road from Fallern (p. 15) to (V2 M.) a sign-post 
with four arms, whence a path between pine-woods and large quarries (see 
above) brings them in '/s hr. to the N.W. gate of Soleure. 

Prom fiolewe to Ilcrzoyenbuchsee, see below. 

From Solkuue to Burgdorp (13 M.) by the Emmenthal railway in 
1 hour. The principal station is (7 M.) Utzensdorf, the largest village in 
the lower Emmenthal. Biirffdorf, see p. 17. 

From Soleure to Lvss (15 M.) by railway, skirting the right bank of 
the Aare, in 1-1'/-.! hour. About halfway is Biiren (Krone), a small town 
with an old chateau. Li/ss, see p. 11. 

The Bicnne line crosses the Aare. 48 M. Alt-Solothurn (p. 14) ; 
then Selzach, Grenchen or Granges (Lowe), with watch-manufactor- 
ies, and Pieterlen. 

G3 M. Bienne, see p. 11. 

4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenbuchsee. 

6G M. Railway in 'i^U-i'-'/t hrs. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 30 c). 

To (241/.2 M.) Olten, see pp. 12, 13. The line skirts the right 
bank of the Aare; to the left, the chateau of Neu-Wartburg (jp. iS). 
Beyond a short tunnel we reach — 

27 M. Aarburg (128(5' ; * Krone; Bi'ir), a thriving little town 
(20G4 inh.ib.), picturesquely situated on the Aare (junction for Lu- 
cerne, p. 20). Tlie old castle on a hill, built in 1660, with casemates 
liewn in the rock, is now a factory. 

Stations Niederwyl ; Murgenthal , where the Murg is crossed ; 



to Bern. BURGDORF. 4. Route. 17 

Roggwyl; Lanyenthal (*L6we), a thriving village with a busy timber- 
trade; Biitzberg. 

411/2 M. Herzogenbuchsee (1500' ; 2300 inhab. ; *Sonne; Rail. 
Restaurant) is a considerable place , with a loftily situated church. 

To SoLEDKE (9 M.) railway in 40 min. Stations Jnkwyl, Subigen, and 
Derenditic/en, beyond which we cross the Grosse Emme to J^feu-SoloUntj-nip. I4j. 

Near (451/2 M.) Riedwyl we enter a grassy valley with wooded 
slopes. Beyond (47 M.) Wi/ni^en along tunnel (1 min.). The train 
now crosses the Orosse Emme to — 

52 M. Burgdorf, Fr. Berthoud (1863'; Hotels Guggisberg and 
de la Gare, both at the station; Maison de Ville; Ours), a busy town 
(6849 inhab.), picturesquely situated. The substantially built houses 
are flanked with 'Lauben', or arcades, as at Bern. The public 
buildings, the hospital, schools, orphanage, and public walks testify 
to the wealth and taste of the community. In the chateau of 
Burgdorf, in 1798, Pestalozzi established his famous school, which 
in 1804 he removed to Yverdon (p. 198). Beautiful views from the 
church and chateau ; finer from the Lueg (2886'), 2 hrs. to the E. 

From Burgdorf to Langnau, 14 31., railway in 1 hr. The line as- 
cends the fertile Emmenthal. Stat. Oberhurg and Hasle-Rilegsmi. From 
Riiegsau, l'/-j M. to the N.E. of the railway, the Rachisherg (2768'; line 
view of the Alps and the Jura) may be ascended in '/■- 'i'^- — 6 31. 
LUtzelfliih-Goldbacb. Liitzelfluh was the home of the pastor Albert Bitzius 
(d. 1854), a well-known popular author under the name of Jeremias Gott- 
helf. — 7V2M. Ramsey-Sumiswald (the latter lying 3 M. to the K.); 9 M. 
Zollbfiick; 14 M. Langnau (p. 128). 

From Burgdorf to Soleure, see p. 16. 

541/2 M. Lyssach; 56 M. Hindelbank; 59 M. Schonbilhl. Beyond 
(6IV2M.) ZoJiifco/'en (junction for Bienne, p. 12), on the right, 
lies the Riitti , once the property of E. v. Fellenberg , and how 
an agricultural institution. Farther on , the train crosses the iron 
Worblaufen Bridge (below, to the right, the handsome bridge of 
Tiefenau over the Aare , constructed in 1851) and then ascends 
through a cutting to the Wyler Feld (drilling-ground), whence, to 
the left , we obtain a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps. 
Farther on, to the right, is a new workmen's suburb (the 'Lor- 
raine'), beyond which we cross the Aare and enter the station of 
Bern. The ^Bridge, 200 yds. long and 142' high, has a roadway 
for ordinary traffic below the railway. — 66 M. Bern, see p. 133. 

5. From Bale to Ziirich. 

56 M. Railway in 2V4-3',2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 75 c). 

To (5 M.) Pratteln, see p. 12. Near (71/2 M.) Augst, pictur- 
esquely situated, we cross the Ergoh and approach the Rhine. On 
the left Kaiser-Augst, with salt-works and an old church. On the 
opposite bank of the Ergolz is the hamlet of Basel-Augst (p. 3). 

IOV2 M. Rheinfelden (873'; *H6tel des Salines, 5 min. a\)0ve 
the town, pens. 4-6 fr. ; *H6tel Dietschy zur Krone, with terrace 
on the Rhine ; Zum Schiltzen; Schi/f, all with salt-baths; *Bellt- 

Baeuekek, Switzerland. i3th Edition. 2 



1 8 Route 5. BRUGG. From Bale 

vue, on the right bank of the Rhine; beer at the Salmen; English 
chaplain in summer), an old town with 2360 inhab., once strongly 
I'ortiflcd, with walls and towers still partly preserved , was one of 
the outposts of the Holy Roman Empire. After repeated sieges it 
was taken and razed to the ground by the French in 1744. Since 
1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. The foaming river here dashes 
over the rocks, forming the Hollenhaken rapids. Near the town are 
extensive salt-works on the Rhine. 

"We quit the Rhine, which here describes a bend to the N., pass 
(13 M.) Moldin and (17 M.) 3/umj)/" (Soolbad zur Sonne; Guntert), 
and then return to the river for a short distance. I8I/2 M. Stein 
(990'; *Lowe), connected by a covered bridge with Sdckingen (p. 22). 

We quit the Rhine, and at (20'/'2 M.) Eiken enter the pleasant 
and fertile Sisseln-Thal. 23 M. Fncfe (1120'; Adler; Engel), a con- 
siderable village. The train ascends in a long curve to (26 M.) Hor- 
nusseii (1275'). 2872 M. Effingen (1427'), the highest point on the 
line. Then a tunnel, 2697 yds. long (4min.), under the Botzberg 
(1945'), the Mons Vocetius of the Romans. SiM. Botzenegg. The 
train gradually descends ; magnificent view of the valley of the Aare 
to the right, and, in clear weather, of the St. Gall, Glarus, and 
Schwyz Alps. Bridge over the Aare 259 yds. long and 104' high. 

36 M. Brugg(1096'; pop. 1583; *Rdssli; Rothes Haus; Station 
Hotet), an antiquated little town, the junction ioxAarau and Walds- 
hut (R. 7), is best surveyed from the Aare bridge. The ^Schwarze 
ThurnH dates from the later Roman Empire ; the upper part was 
restored in the 15th century. A little to the N.E. three of the chief 
Swiss rivers, the Aare, the Reuss, and the Limmat, unite, falling 
into the Rhine at Kohlenz (p. 22), 8 M. to the N. 

The ancient Abbey of Kbnigsfelden (3/4 M. to the S.E. of Brugg), for- 
merly a convent of Minorites, was founded in 1310 by the Empress Eliza- 
beth and her daughter, Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where 
Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years 
before (1308) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. It was secularised in 
1528; the building was converted into an hospital, and in 1872 into a lunatic 
asylum. Of the old buildings there now remain the S. part only, the church, 
and the dwelling of Queen Agnes, which last now contains a collection of 
antiquities. The stained-glass 'Windows in the choir, of the 14th cent., op- 
posite the door, pourtray the history of Agnes, etc. Part of the choir, with 
the tomb of Duke Leopold (p. 20), is now a cart-shed. On the walls are 
portraits of the chief knights who fell at Sempach (painted soon after the 
battle, but now much damaged). 

On the tongue of land formed by the Reuss and the Aare once stood 
the considerable Helvetian town of Vindoniss.\, which in the early centu- 
ries of the Christian era was the headquarters of a Roman legion with its 
Rhaetian cohorts, as is proved by inscriptions. The position of the amphi- 
theatre is recognisable ; and the well of the Abbey of Konigsfelden is fed 
by a subterranean Roman conduit. The town was destroyed in the 5th 
cent., and there is now no trace of its extensive edifices; but the name 
still survives in that of the village of Windisc/i , 1 M. to the E. of Brugg. 

From Brugg to Wohlen, 11 M., railway in 40 minutes. — 3 M. Birr- 
feld; 5'/'i M. Othmarsingen (junction for Wettingen and Aarau, p. 21) ; 
T'/^M- Hendschikon (p. 21); 8'/z M. Dottikon-Dintikon (p. 21); 11 M. Woh- 
Un-ViUmergen. (To Jlothkreuz, see p. 21.) 



to Zurich. BADEN. 5, Ruute. 19 

"Wo cross the Reuss near its union with the Aarc, and beyoml 
(38 M.l Turgi (junction for Waldshut, see p. 22), reach the Limmat 
and follow its left bank. The steep slopes are clad with vines. 

42 M. Baden (1257'; pop. 3818; Hotel Bahnhof,- Waaye) was 
much visited even in Roman times for the sake of its mineral 
springs (Aquae Helvetiae). In the reign of Nero, according to Taci- 
tus (Hist. i. 67), it had all the appearance of a town (Hn modum 
munieipii exstructus locus, amoeno salubrium aquarum usu fre- 
quens ). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, and down to the 
beginning of the 15th cent, was often the residence of the princes 
of Hapsburg. The extensive ruins of the fortress Stein zu Baden 
(1506'), destroyed in 1415 and again in 1712, rise above the town; 
its summit and the Cafe Belvedere command fine views. 

The hot mineral springs (98"'-126° Fahr.) lie in the narrow val- 
ley of the Limmat (1190'), 5min. to the N. of the station, •/.2 M. 
from the town. The '■Small Baths (Adler ; Engel ; Hirsch ; Eebstock; 
Schwan), on the right bank of the Limmat, are chiefly freqiiented 
hy the neighbouring peasantry ; the ' Great Baths' (*Neue Kuranstalt 
Baden, or Grand Hotel, pension 8-12 fr. ; Schiff ; *Verenahof, 8fr. ; 
*Blume; Schweizerhof; Freihof; *Limmathof; Ochs; Bar) lie on the 
left bank. The Bahnhof-Str. leads from the station to the handsome 
Kursaal , with its pleasant grounds (*Restaurant ; music several 
times daily) and to the Kuranstalt (see above). Good view from the 
lower Limmat bridge (1175') ; opposite, on the right bank, is the 
Cafe Brunner, with a garden. From the upper bridge a footpath 
leads to the left to (V2 M.) the Restaurant Schartenfels, which com- 
mands a fine view. 

From Baden to Aarau, seep. 21; station on the S.W. side of the up- 
per town, 1 M. from the baths. 

We pass through a short tunnel under the Stein zu Baden (sec 
above), and cross the Limmat to (43 M.) Wettingen. The village lies 
on the left, at the foot of the vine-clad La5rcrr?g'e6jrjre (2828') ; and 
on the right, surrounded by the Limmat, are the extensive buildings 
and gardens of the former Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a 
seminary for teachers. The church contains a sarcophagus in whicli 
the remains of the Emp. Albert (see p. 18) reposed for 15 months 
before their removal to Speyer. Stained- glass windows of the 
16th and 17th cent., carved stalls of the 17th. 

From Wettingen to Oeklikon, 13'/j M., railway in IV4 hr. — 2V2 M. 
Wiirenlos; 4'/2 M. Otdfingen-Daenikon (branch-line by Bucks and Nieder- 
glatt to Biilach, p. 47); 6 M. Buchs-DaelUkon ; 8' '2 M. Regeiudorf-Watt , a 
little to the E. of which is the small Katzensee (-Inn) ; iOVz M. Affol- 
tern; 12>/2 M. Seehach; 13V2 M. Oerlikon (p. 46). 

The train again crosses the deep bed of the Limmat and follows 
its left bank to Ziirich. 46 M. Killwangen. — 49 M. Dietikon(1286'; 
Lowe). It was here that Massena effected his famous passage of 
the Limmat, 24th Sept., 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians 
and took Ziirich. — Schlieren And Altstetten(j^.lO) are the last stations 

2* 



20 Route 6. SEMPACH. 

before Zurich. To the right stretclics tlie htiip; ridge of the Uetli with 
its iiiii fp. 37). We now cross the Sihl ami enter the station of — 
56 M. Zurich, see p. 32. 

6. From Bale to Lucerne. 

.09 JI. KAII.WAY ( Central) in 2'/'.!-4'/-j trs. (fares 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 15, 5 fr. lOc). 

To [27 M.) Aarbury , the junction for Bern (li. 4), see p. 16. 
The Lucerne line traverses the broad grassy Wiggerlhal. 

30 M. Zofingen (1430'; pop. 4452; Rdssli; Ochs), a busy little 
town. The library in the Kathhaus contains a collection of coins, 
autographs of Swiss reformers, and the album of the society of 
Swiss artists, founded in the year 1806, which formerly met at Zo- 
lingen annually. On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near 
the Schiitzenhaus two 'ball-rooms' have been constructed. In the 
Bleichegut, near the town, are the remains of a Roman bath. 

From Zofingen to Suhr, railway in 36 minutes. Stations Safi'nwiil, 
Kolliken, Enlfclde.n, well-to-do villages, and (lO'/z M.) Suhr, the junction 
I'lir Aarau and Baden (p. 21). 

33 M. Reiden, an old lodge of the knights of Malta, now a par- 
sonage. 35 M. Dagmersellen ; 37 M. Nebikon (diligence daily in 
3 hrs., via WUtisau, to Wohlhausen in the Entlebuch, p. 127). To 
the right appear the Bernese Alps ; in the centre the Jungfrau, 
with the Monch and Eiger to the left of it and the Altels to the 
right. Beyond (39'/2 M.) Wauwyl the little Mauensee, with its 
islaiiil and castle, lies on the right. 

43'/2 M. Sursee (1690'; pop. 2138; Sonne; Hirsch), an old 
town , over whose gates the double eagle of Hapsburg is still 
enthroned. The Town Hall recalls the Burgundian style. 

Near (46 M.) Notlivyl we approach the Lake of Serwpach (1663'), 
5 M. long, IV2 M- broad, and abounding in fish. On a hill to the 
right rises Schloss Wartensee. 

4972 M- Sempach. The small town (pop. 1097; Kreuz; Adler') 
lies IV2 M- to the N. , on the S.E. bank of the lake. Near Sempach 
Duke Leopold of Austria was signally defeated on 9th July, 1386, by 
the Swiss Confederates, owing, according to the story, to the noble 
self-sacriflce of Arnold von Winkelried. The duke himself and 263 of 
his knights were slain. A column surmounted by a lion was erected 
beside the church in 1886 on the 500th anniversary of the victory. 

A Chapkl (2064'j, I'/a M. to the N.E. of Sempach, marks the spot where 
Leopold fell. His uncle, Duke Leopold, had been defeated by the Swiss 71 
years before at Jlorgarten (p. 98). The anniversary is still kept. 

The train intersects plantations of firs. On the right appear the 
precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus; on the left the long crest of 
the Rigi; between these tower the snowy Alps (see p. 75); the 
isolated mountain adjacent to Pilatus, rising above the lake, is the 
Titlis. 53 M. Rothenburg ; 56 M. Emmenbrilcke (Hotel Emmen- 
briick« ; Restaurant Seethal) , the junction of the 'Seethal' line to 
Lenzburg (p. 130). The line crosses the Emme , a little above 



AARAU. 7. Route. 21 

its junction with the Reuss, and follows the latter, heing joined 
on the left by the Ziirich and Lucerne line (p. 70), and on the 
right by the Bern and Lucerne line (p. 127j. Lastly we pass 
through a tunnel under the Giilscli (p. 76). 
59 M. Lucerne, see p. 73. 

7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg. 

32'. 2 M. Railwat in 2 brs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 4 fr., 3 fr. 85 c). 

Olten, see p. 13. The train runs near the Aare as far as Brugg. 
To the left rise the picturesque Jura Mts. 

4 M. Ddnikon; 51/2 M. Schonenwerth ; on the opposite bank of 
the Aare is Schloss Gosgen , with a ruined tower. A tunnel now 
carries us under the loftily situated town of — 

81/2 M. Aarau (1263'; pop. 6710; *R-6ssli; *Ochs; *Lowe; 

* Wilder Mann), a manufacturing place, the capital of Canton Aargau, 
on the Aare (which is crossed by a suspension-bridge, constructed 
In 1850), and at the foot of the Jura, the slopes of which at places 
are planted with the vine. The Gross-Rathsgebciude contains fine 
stained glass (from the Abbey of Muri, 16th cent.) and the Can- 
tonal Library (60,000 vols.). The Geographical and Commercial 
Society of Central Switzerland has here founded an interesting 

* Ethnographical Industrial Museum. A house in the Rathhaus- 
Platz (No. 882) contains interesting antiquities from Yindonissa 
(p. 18). The historian Heinrich Zschoklce (d. 1848) once lived 
here; his house, the ^ Blwnenhalde\ is passed on the pleasant 
walk across the suspension-bridge to the (1/4 hr.) *Alpenzeiger on 
the Hungerberg (Restaurant, with fine view, pens. 4 fr.). 

Above the town, to the ]S'., rises the Wasser/lu!i (2850'), and to the 
■N.E. the Qiselafluh (2540'), over which a path, with a view of the lakes of 
Hallwyl and Baldegg, leads to the Baths of Schinznach. — Pleasant road 
from Aarau by Erlisbacli (p. 13) to the (4 M.) -Latirenzenbad, prettily situat- 
ed in the Jura. — About 6 M. to the W. of Aarau are the sulphur-baths 
of Lostorf (p. 13), the road to which passes Erlisbach and Stiisslingen. 
— From Aarau to Sissach over the Schafmalt, see p. 12. 

Fbom Aarau to Rotukkeuz, 29'/2 M.. railwav in l'/2-2 hrs. — 4 M. 
Ruppersiceil (see p. 22); 631. Lembwg (p. 180); 8 M. Hendschikon ; 10 M. Dotti- 
kon-Dintikon; I2V2 M. Wohlen-Villmergen, two considerable villages (junc- 
tion for Brugg and Bale, p. 13). Branch-line hence to the E. to (5 M.) 
Bremgarten (Drei KiJnige ; Kreuz), a small town on the Reuss.with a 
chateau. — Then (16 M.) Boswyl-Biinzen and (18 M.) Muri (1630'; "Lowe, 
with salt and mineral baths ; Adlev), with the extensive buildings of a 
Benedictine Abbey suppressed in 1841, now a school. Near the town is the 
picturesque wooded Miihltobel with several waterfalls. On a hill, I'/i hr. 
to the S.E., is "Schloss Hovben (2625'; pension 6-7 fr.), with extensive 
wood-walks and a beautiful view. — 20'/2 M. Benzenschwyl ; 22'/2 M. Miihlau, 
on the Reuss; 25 M. Sins; 27 31. OberriiU. We then cross the Reuss to 
(291/2 31.) Rothkreuz, the junction of the St. Gofthard line (pp. 71, 99). 

From Aakau to Baden, 17'/2 M., railway in 1 hr. 20 min. — 3 M. 
Suhr (branch-line to Zofingen, p. 20); 5', 2 31. Hunzenschwul (on a hill to 
the right the Slaufberg). 71/2 31. Lenzbuvg (p. 130; 'Seethalbahn' to 
Lucerne, see 11.39), where the Aa is crossed. lO'/v; M. O/hmarsingeii, 
junction for Brugg and Wohlen (p. 18). Kear (11 31.) Miigenicyl , on a 
spur of the Keslfiiberg. to the left, rises Schloss Urauiiegg. The train 



22 Route H. SACKTNGEN. 

crosses the lietiss. l3'/2 M. Melliiiffen; IS'/z M. Dattwyl; IT'/z M. Baden 
(p. 19; the station lies to the S.W. of the upper town, see p. 19). 

On the left, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Giselafluh, lies 
Biberstein, with an old castle, formerly a lodge of the knights of 
St. John. 13 m. lluppersweil; to the right the Staufberg and the 
chatean of Lenzburgijp. 130). — 15 M. Wildegg, with a castle of that 
name, on the foot of the Wiilpelsberg , has mineral springs contain- 
ing iodine and bromine, the water of which is used for exportation 
only. On a hill beyond the Aare rises Schloss Wildenstein. — l^'/i M. 
Stat. Schinznach lies halfway between the village, on the left bank 
of the Aare, and the (3 M.) Schinznacher Bad, or Habsburger Bad 
(1'203'), with sulphur -baths, chiefly frequented by French visitors 
(*Kurhaus, with pretty grounds, pens. 4-7 fr.). 

The baths lie at the foot of the Wiilpelsberg (1686'), on the top of 
wliich ('/2 hr.) are the ruins of the 'Habsburg, the cradle of the imperial 
family of Austria, erected by Count Radbnd von Altenburg about 1020. 
The tower, with walls 8' thick, is the only part now standing. The ad- 
joining house is occupied by a farmer. The view embraces the entire 
dominions of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and the valleys of the Aare, 
Reuss, and Limmat, bounded on the S. by the Alps. 

191/2 M. Brugg, and thence to (22 M.) Turgi, see p. 18. 

The Waldshut train crosses the Limmat near its influx into the 
Aare, passes stat. Siggenthal, and traverses the broad valley of the 
Aare, which it approaches near (28 M.) Dotlingen-KUngnau. It then 
describes a wide curve, passes through a tunnel, and crosses the 
Rhine near (301/2 M.) Koblenz, above the mouth of the Aare. 

321/2 M. Waldshut, see p. 23. 

8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance. 

89 JI. Ladkn Hailwat in 5 hrs. (to Schaffhausen 9 fr. 50, 6fr. 30, 4fr. 
5c.; to Constance 14 fr. 50, 9 fr. 65, 6 fr. 20c.). Neuhausen (p. 23) is the 
station for the Falls of the Rhine (R. 9). Views to the right. — Steamer 
from Schaffhausen to Constance in 31/2-4 hrs. (descending in 3 hrs.), pleas- 
ant if time and weather permit (see p. 24; fares 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c.). 

BCde (Baden station), see p. 2. We traverse a fertile plain 
between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the Rhine. Stations 
Orenzach, Wyhlen (Hotel Bilmaier), Herthen. At (10 M.) Bei 
Rheinfclden (ha.hi\hote\; Bellcvue), opposite Rheinfelden (p. 17), 
the line approaclies the Rhine, which here dashes over rocks. The 
left bank is precipitous and wooded. 

12 m. Beuggen; to the right are a large reformatory and a semi- 
nary for teachers, formerly a Teutonic lodge. 15 M. Niederschwor- 
sladt. To the left of (17 M.) Brennet (*Zum Wehrathal) opens the 
* Wehralhal (see Baedeker's Rhine). 

20 M. Sackingen (957'; Soolbad or Lijwe; Schiitze), a consider- 
able town, has a large abbey-church with two towers. The castle 
on the Rhine, which figures in Scheffel's poem 'The Trumpeter of 
Sackingen' ('Trompeter von Siickingen') , is now the property of 
Ilr. l'>alli. Pretty grounds. 



SCHAFFHAUSEN. 8. Route. 23 

24 M. Murg (Zum Murgthal), where we cross the Murg. Op- 
posite (251/2 M.) Laufenburg (*Post) is the Swiss town of Laufen- 
boTg (980 ' ; Rheinsoolbad ; Adlef) , very picturesquely placed on 
the left bank, with its lofty church, ruined castle, and old watch- 
towers. The Rhine here forms a roaring cataract called the '■Laufen . 

A long tunnel; then, beyond (29 M.) Albert-Hauenstein, a lofty 
viaduct. At intervals we approach the river. Near (30 M.) Albbruck 
the Alb is crossed. 32 M. Dogern. 

35 M. Waldshut (1122'; Hot. Schdtzle, at the station; *H6tel 
Blume; Eebstock, in the town), the largest of these small towns 
on the Rhine, lies high above the river. — Railway to Turgi (for 
Ziirich), see p. 22; to Winterthur, see p. 47. 

Beyond Waldshut a tunnel ; to the right, occasional glimpses of 
the Alps. Before (38 M.) Thiengen (Krone) we cross the Schliicht, 
and at (40'/2M.) Oberlauchrlngen the Wutach. To the right, on a 
wooded height, is the ruin oi Kilssenberg . Stations Griessen, Erzin- 
gen, WHchingen-HaUau, Neunkirch, Beringen, and (oT'/o M.) A'eu- 
hnusen, the station for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 26). 

59 M. Schaffhausen. — *Post, in tlie Herrenacker, 3 min. from the 
station; 'Muller, E. from 2, B. IV4 fr. , 'Rheinisoheii IIok, Eiese, all 
three at the station; 'Tanne, plain; 'Schiff, on the Rhine; Krone, un- 
pretending. — Restaurant Rehmann , at the station; Rail. Restaurant. — 
Baths in the Rhine, at the upper end of the town, 6-1 and 5-8, for ladies 2-5. 

Schaffhausen (1414'; pop. 12,327), the capital of the canton of 
that name, still retains some of the features of a Swabian town of 
the empire. It presents a most picturesque appearance when seen 
from the village of Feuerthalen, on the left bank of the Rhine, or 
from the villa Charlottenfels (1384') on the right bank. Hr. Moser 
(d. 1871), the late proprietor of the villa, originated the imposing 
WateriDorks in the Rhine (outside the Miihlenthor) , by means of 
which the factories of the town are supplied with water-power. 

The Cathedral, once an abbey-church, an early-Romanesque 
basilica, was erected in 1052-1101. Interior lately restored. The 
Gothic cloisters are tolerably preserved. The inscription on the great 
bell, cast in 1486: Vivos voco, mortuos plango , fulgura frango, 
suggested Schiller's beautiful 'Lied von der Glocke'. The Gothic 
Church of St. John contains an excellent new organ. 

The castle of Munot (properly Unnot), built in 1564-82 and 
recently restored, commands the town. It consists of a round tower 
containing a winding inclined plane instead of a staircase, with 
walls 16' thick (fine view from the top). 

The Imthurneum , in the Herrenacker, erected by Hr. Imthurn 
(d. 1881), a native of Schaffhausen and a London banker, and pre- 
sented to the town, contains a theatre, a music-school, and exhibi- 
tion rooms. Opposite is the Museum, with natural history specimens 
and antiquities (including those found in the Kesslerloch near 
Thaylngen), and the town-library. In the neighbouring govern- 
ment bnilding.s is preserved a large onyx, dating from the Roman 



24 Rorde fi. SINGEN. From RVe 

imperial epoch, and representing a goddess of peare (adni. 11-12 
gratis ; at other times 1 fr.). 

In the pretty Filsenstaub Promenade is a bust of the Swiss his- 
torian Johannes v. Miiller (b. at SchatThausen, 1752; d. at Cassel, 
1809). The lofty terrace towards the Rhine affords a line view of 
the rapids and the Alps. 

From Schaffhausen to the Falls of the Rhine (2 M.), see p. 26. Car- 
riage with one horse to the Schliisschen Worth, and back from Neuhausen 
to Schail'hausen, including stay of 1 hr., 7 fr. In summer a conveyance 
.startin;; from the Hotel Miiller at 9 p.m. takes visitors to view the illu- 
mination of the falls. — Pretty walk through the Miihlenthal to the Seekel- 
amtshiisli, with a view of the Alps, and back to SchalVhausen by the 
Jloehfltth (another fine point of view) and the suburb of Steig (U/^ hr. in all}. 
Other line views may be obtained from the Beringer Randen (belvedere), 
4 M. to to the W. (to Beringen station in 20 min., see p. 23), and from 
the Hohe Randen (2965'), lO'/s M. to the N.W., reached via Hemmenitadt 
or Merichausen. 

The line now turns to the N.E. Stations Herblingen, Thayingen, 
and Gottmadinyen. — 71 M. Singen (* Krone ; Ekkehard ; Hail. 
Restaurant), the junction for the Black Forest Railway. About 3 M. 
to the N.W. rises the Hohenlwiel (2244'), with grand ruins and a 
noble view (see Baedeker's S. Germany). 

From Singen to Etzweilen, railway in '/s l"". (1 fr. 30, 90, G5 c). 
Stations Rielasingen, Ramsen. We cross the Rhine between Hemishofen and 
Rheinklingen (p. 25). 9 M. Etzweilen (p. 31). 

75V2 M. Rickelshausen. — 771/2 M. Radolfzell (*Schiff; Krone), 
an old town on the Vntersee, with a Gothic church of 1436. Near it, 
on the lake, isSeehalde, formerly the villa of Victor v. Scheffei, 
Avitli a monument to the poet (d. 1886). 

In the middle of this basin of the Lake of Constance lies the island 
of Reichenau, in the dominions of Baden, 3 31. long, 1 M. wide, connected 
with the E. shore by an embankment, 3/4 M. in length. (Boat from 
AUensbach to the island in 25 min. ; from Constance to the island by the 
embankment 41/2 M.; the Scbaft'hausen steamers also touch at Reichenau 
twice daily.) The Benedictine Abbey, once richly endowed , fell to decay 
owing to mal-administration in the 14th cent., and was secularised in 1799. 
The church, consecrated as early as 806, contains the remains of Charles the 
Fat, great-grandson of Charlemagne, who was dethroned in 887. It is now 
the parish-church of the neighbouring village o( Mittelzell or J/«n«<er (Krone). 
The tower and nave belong to the original building. There are now few 
antiquities here, except several reliquaries in the sacristy. The Carolingian 
churches of Ohevzell and Unterzell are architecturally interesting. 

The train intersects the tongue of land between the Untersee 
and the Veberlinger See on the S.W. side, passes Markelfingen, 
AUensbach, Reichenau, and the large barracks of Petershausen, and 
crosses the Rhine to (89 M.) Constance (p. 28), by an iron bridge 
embellished with statues. 



STE.\MBO.iT FROM Scii AFEHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE. Charts of the joumcy 
are sold for 30 c. on board the steamboats. Below the stations are indi- 
cated with daggers. Pier above the bridge, near Schloss Mmtol (p. 23), op- 
posite Feuerthalen. — Right : Parodies, formerly a nunnery. 

■;• Left : Biistngen, a Baden village. 

R. <S^ Catharinenthal, formerly a nunnery, now a hospital for in- 
curables; opposite (left) Villa Ravschenherg. 




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to Constance. STEIN. .9. noute 25 

t R. Diessenhofen (1325'; Adler; Lowe; Uirsclt), the Roman Ouno- 
durum. The Rhine is crossed here by a covered wooden bridge , below 
which the steamer lowers its funnel. 

R. Rheinkliugen : left, Bibeni. We now pass under the handsome 
bridge of the 'Nordostbahn'' (see p. 24). L. Hemishvfeii , with the ruin 
of Wolkenstein above. R. Wagenhausen. 

t L. Stein ('Sonne; 'Rabe), a picturesque old town, connected with 
the village of Burg (Wasserfels) by a new wooden bridge, and a station on 
the Winterthur railway (p. 31). The suppressed monastery of St. George 
contains a hall with a vaulted wooden roof, erected in 1515, and embel- 
lished with frescoes. The Rathhaus contains a collection of stained glass, 
old weapons, etc. The old chateau of Hohenklingen (1945'), on a hill to 
the N. of the town, aftbrds an admirable view. 

Above Stein is the island of St. Othmar, with the chapel of that name. 
The Rhine widens, the steamer enters the Untersee. R. Eschenz (p. 31) ; 
on the hill above it the chateau of Freiideiifels. 

f L. Obersiaad, an old mansion with a square tower, now occupied 
by dyeworks ; beyond it the suppressed monastery of Oehningen. 

f R. Mammern (p. 31) ; in the wood, the ruin of Neuburg ; on the 
bank, the house of GUtrisegg. 

i L. Wangen and the chateau of Mai-bach (now a hydropathic estab.). 

t R. Steckborn (p. 31). Below it, the former nunnery of Feldbach. 

f R. Berlingen (p. 31). The lake expands, and we now see the island 
of Reichenau (p. 24 ). On the hill to the right is the chateau of Eugens- 
herg 1 erected by Eugene Beauharnais, vice-king of Italy, and now the 
property of Count Reichenbach-Lessonitz. 

t R. Mannenbaih (p. 31) , charmingly situated , above which is the 
liandsome pinnacled chateau oi Salen stein ; then, on a beautifully wood- 
ed hill, Arenaberg (1052'), once the residence of Queen Hortense (d. 1837) 
and her son Napoleon III. (d. 1873), now the property of the ex-Empress 
Eugenie, and containing many reminiscences of Napoleon 1. 

+ R. Ermatmgen (p. 31), prettily situated on a promontory; on 
the hill above it, Sc/doss Wolfsberg (now a 'Kurhaus' and pension). The 
neighbouring Schloss Hard, with its beautiful garden, is not visible. 

i L. Oberzell, on the island of Reichenau (p. 24). We now enter 
the narrow arm of the Rhine connecting the Untersee with the Lake of 
Constance. 

t R. Gottlieben (Krone), with a chateau, now restored, in which Huss 
and Jerome of Prague, and afterwards Pope John XXII. were confined 
by order of the Council. The chateau and ruin of Castel, on the hill at 
the back of the village, command a charming view. Beautiful retrospect 
of the Untersee, with the Hohenhcifen, Hohenstofleln, and other peaks of 
the Hohgau in the distance. 

The banks now become flat, and at places marshy. We thread our 
way through reedy shallows Q. Petershausen , with large barracks), and 
at length pass under the handsome railway-bridge of Constance (p. 28). 
Passengers are landed at the pier with a lighthouse at its E. end. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine. 

Comp. Map, p. 2i. » 

Hotels. On the hill on the 7'ight bank, near stat. Neuhausen (p. 23), 
*ScHWEizERHOF, R., L., & A. 5-G, D. 4-5 fr., well managed (no fees), witli 
extensive grounds and the finest view of the Falls and the Alps; Bellevuk, 
R., L., & A. 3-4, B. V/i, U. 3'/2 fr. ; omnibuses from both to the station and 
pier at SchalThausen (I1/2 fr.). At Neuhausen, "Hotel Rheinfall, 'Rhein- 
HOF, with baths, both moderate. — On the left bank, above the Falls, Hot. 
Schloss Laufen, R. 2'/2 fr. ; Hot. Witzig, at stat. Dachsen, 3/4 M. from 
the Falls (omnibus from both hotels in'S min.). Illumination of the Falls 
with electric and Bengal lights every evening in summer (1 fr.). 

English Church Service in the new church in the 'Schweizerhof grounds 
at 1().3(( & 3.^0; chaplain, Rev. J. L. Ihdbeck. 



20 Rnule 9. FALLS OF THE RHINE. 

The station for the Falls on the right bank is Neuhausen (p. 23) on the 
Baden Railway, that, on the left bank Dachsen (p. 32) on the Swiss line. 

The best way to see the Falls is to start from Neuhausen and follow 
the route described below (cross the bridge to Scfiloss Latifen, descend to 
the Fischetz , cross to the Schlosschen Worth, and return through the 
grounds, l'/2 hr. in all). This round is often taken in the reverse direc- 
tion, but as the Fischetz, the most striking point of all is then visited 
first , the other points lose much of their impressiveness. — Travellers who 
desire to combine a visit to the falls with the journey to or from Switzer- 
land alight at slat. Dachsen (allowing luggage to go on to its destination 
and await their arrival), walk or drive (omnibus there and back I'/z fr.) 
to (t M.) Laii/eii, descend through the grounds to the Fischetz, cross to 
fichlosgrhen Wiirlh , and return to Schloss Laufen by the Rheinfallbriicke ; 
or descend from Wiirth by the road on the right bank to the (3 4 M.) vil- 
lage of Nohl, cross the river (ferry 15-20 c), and regain Dachsen in a few 
minutes. — The pleasantest way to visit the Falls from Schaffhausen (p. 23) 
is to drive in an open carriage, via Feuerthalen, to Schloss Laufen. Or 
the traveller may walk to Neuh.ausen and cross the railway-bridge to the 
Schloss (2 31.). Omnibuses ply from the Hotel Schloss Jjaufen and from 
the hotels on the right bank to the railway station and steamboat quay 
at Schaffhausen. — All the points of view should if possible be visited , 
as the traveller's impression of the Falls will otherwise be imperfect. 

The **Falls of the Rhine are in point of volume the grandest 
in Europe. The Rhine is precipitated in three leaps over an 
irregular rocky ledge, which on the side next the left bank Is 
about 60' in height, and on the right bank about 48'. Above the 
Falls the river is about 125 yds. in width. If the rapids and the 
cataracts a few hundred paces farther up be taken into account, the 
total height of the falls may be estimated at nearly 100'. (Level 
of the Rhine below the falls 1180'.) In June and July the river is 
much swelled by melting snow. Before 8 a.m. and after 3 p.m. 
numberless rainbows are formed by the sunshine in the clouds of 
silvery spray. The spectacle is also very impressive by moonlight. 

Of the four limestone -rocks which rise above the Falls, that nearest 
the left bank has been worn by the action of the water to one-third of 
its original thickness, but has lately been buttressed with masonry. When 
viewed from a boat below, the rocks seem to tremble. The central and 
highest rock , surmounted by a small pavilion, may be reached by boat, 
and ascended by a path protected by a railing. The Falls are here surveyed 
to the best advantage. The passage, which only occupies a few minutes, 
is unattended with danger (1-2 pers. 3 fr. and fee ; each additional person 
1 fr.). — It is a curious fact that no mention of the Falls of the Rhine 
occurs in history before the year 9(50. It has therefore been supposed that 
they did not exist until about a thousand years ago, and that, while the 
bed of the river below the falls has gradually been deepened by erosion, 
the deepening process above the falls has been retarded by the hardness 
(if the rocky harrier above mentioned. 

Leaving the Neuhausen Station (p. 23), we follow the road to 
the left, and after a few paces descend by a path to the right to the 
village. Beyond the Hotel Rheinfall we descend to the right by a 
finger-post, and after 100 paces take the shady path to the left, 
passing the Gun and Waggon Factory (a projecting point near which 
affords a fine view of the Falls) to the (V4 hr.) ^Rheinfallbriicke, 
210 yds. long, which carries the 'Nordostbahn' over the Rhine a 
little above the Falls (p. 31). The nine arches vary in span(42-6G'), 
as it was difficult to obtain foundations for the piers. The footway 



LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 70. Route. 27 

on the upper side of the bridge affords an interesting view of the 
rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the falls below. 

On the left bank a path ascends to the left in 5 min. to *H6tel 
Schloss Laufen (1360'), picturesquely situated on a wooded rock 
immediately above the Falls. (Admission 1 fr.; no other fees.). The 
balcony and a jutting pavilion with stained-glass windows command 
a good survey of the falls, the bridge, and the environs. 

Footpaths descend through the grounds to the chief points of 
view : aniron*Pai)i7wn, the wooden *K(inzelt, and lastly the *Fischetz, 
an iron platform projecting over the foaming abyss. The scene here 
is stupendous. The vast emerald-green volume of water descends 
with a roar like thunder, apparently threatening to overwhelm the 
spectator, and bedewing him with its spray. 

Boats are in readiness here to ferry us across (50 c.) to tlie 
Schlosschen Worth (^Restaurant; camera obscura 50 c), on an is- 
land opposite the Falls , which is connected with the right bank by 
a bridge. This point commands the finest general View of the Falls. 
(Boat to the central rock, see p. 26.) We may now return to the 
Neuhausen station or visit the Schweizerhof. To the W. of the hotel 
is the Fischerhdlzll , with shady grounds and picturesque views. Or 
we may follow the road on the right bank, ascending the river 
(benches at intervals, commanding splendid views) to the Laufen 
Ironworks, where a stone parapet near the sluices affords another 
good survey of the Falls. The road thence to the left ascends through 
the village of Neuhausen to the station (p. 26). 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of 
Constance. 

Steamboat four times daily in suminer (twice direct, in l'/4-l'/2 It.; 
twice via Jleersburg in 2 hrs.). Between tlie chief places on the lake, 
Friedrichshafen , Lindan , Bregenz , Rorschach , Romanshorn , Constance, 
Meershurg , Ueberlingen , and Ludieigshafen , the steamers (about 26 in 
number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrichshafen- 
Constance Vf-ilir., Friedrichshafen - Romanshorn 1 hr. , Friedrichshafen- 
Rorschach l'/4 hr., Rorschach-Lindau II/4 hr., Constance-Lindau 2'/2 hrs.) 
3-4 times daily. Good restaurants on board. The lake being neutral, 
luggage is liable to custom-house examination on arriving in Germany or 
Austria from Switzerland, and nominally in the reverse case also. Passengers 
from one German port to another may avoid these formalities by obtaining 
on embarcation a custom-house ticket for their luggage, which will be 
delivered to them free of charge on their arrival. 

The Lake of Constance (1306'; Ger. Bodensee, Lat. Lacits Brigantinits), 
an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 210 sq. 31. in area, is, from Bregenz 
to the influ.K of the Stockach, 40 31. long, about 71/2 M. wide, and between 
Friedrichshafen and I'tweil 836' deep. The water is of a light green colour. 
The N.E. banks are in general flat, but on the S.W. the lake is bounded by 
beautiful wooded hills, which gradually decrease in height towards Constance. 
In beauty of scenery the Bodensee cannot vie with the other Swiss lakes; 
but its broad expanse of water, its picturesque banks, and green hills, 
the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, the snow-clad Sentis in 
particular, and several snow-peaks of the Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear 
weather, combine to present a very pleasing scene. The lake is bounded 
by three different states: Germany (Baden, Wurtemberg, and Bavaria), 



28 Route in. CONSTANCE. 

Austria, and Switzerland. The l)ost fi.sh are ^Felchen^ and (rout, and the 
best wine j!;riiwii on tlie banks is the '■Afeersburger^. 

'Eried.ricliah&fen (* Deutsches Haus, near the lake and station, good 
cuisine', niodi^atc; * Kunuj v. Wiirltembery, 1/4 M. to the N. of tlic 
Stat.; ^ Krone, witli a garden on the lake; Sonne; Adler ; *l{auch's 
Restaurant), tlie S. terminus of the Wurtemberg Railway (to Stutt- 
gart 0-7'/2 hrs.), is a busy place in summer. Its lake-baths attract 
many visitors, especially from Swabia, and it boasts of a Kurhnlle 
with pleasant grounds on the lake. The royal Schloss contains pic- 
tures by Gegenbaur, Pflug, and other modern Wurtemberg artists; 
a pavilion in the garden commands a charming view of the lake 
and the Alps. The historical and other collections of the Bodensee- 
Verein in the former Bellevue Hotel deserve a visit. The Harbour 
with its Lighthouse is 1 M. from the railway-station. 

Travellers about to continue their journey by steamer may keep their 
seats until the train reaches the harbour-terminus, near the quay (Restau- 
rant with view-terrace). Those arriving by steamer may procure tickets 
immediately on landing, and step into the train at once. 

A trip on the clear pale-green lake is generally very enjoyable, 
but in rough weather sea-sickness is sometimes experienced. On 
the N. bank are the village of Immenstaad, the chateaux of Herrs- 
berg and Kirchberg; then the village of Hagnau. On the N.W. arm 
of the lake, the Ueberlinger See, we next observe the picturesque 
little town of Meersburg ; then the island of Mainau (p. 30), and in 
the distance Ueberlingen. The steamer passes the promontory which 
separates the Ueberlinger See from the bay of Constance , and 
reaches Constance in l'/2 hr. 

Constance (comp. Plan, p. 25). — "Insel-Hotel (Pi. a; C, 3), form- 
erly a Dominican monastery (p. 29), on the lake, with a garden, R., L., & 
A. 3 m. 20, B. 1 m. 20 pf., 1). 3 m. 50 pf.; '-Konstanzer Hof (PI. b), on 
the N. bank of the lake, with extensive grounds, lake-baths, etc., R., L. 
A! A. 4 m. 20, I). 3'/2, pens', from 5V2 m. (fine view from both these hotels) ; 
"Hotel Halm (PI. c; C, 5), opposite the railway-station, R. & A. 2"/2, B. 
1 m. ; <'Hecht (PI. d; C, 4), R., L., & A. 3 , B. 1, D. 3 m. ; 'Badischkk 
Hop (PI. f; A, 5); Krone (PI. g; C, 4), Anker, Schifp, 'Barbauossa, 
-BoDAN, 'Falke, 'Lamm, '•'Schnetzer, in the market-place, second class. 
— Ca/^ Maximilian, IJahnhof-Str. — Baths in the lake (PI. D, 4, 5), well 
fitted up (bath 40 pf. : ferry 10 pf.). — English Church Service in 
summer. 

Constance (1335'; pop. 14,800), a free town of the Empire 
down to 1548, after the Reformation subject to Austria, and since 
the Peace of Pressburg in 1805 a town of Baden, lies at the N.W. 
end of the Lake of Constance, at the efflux of the Rhine. The epis- 
copal see, founded in 781 , and held by 87 bishops in succession, 
was deprived of its temporalities in 1802, and suppressed in 1827, 

The *Cathei)ral (PI. 4; B,3), founded in 1052, once a cruciform 
Romanesque edifice , was rebuilt in its present form at the be- 
ginning of the IBth century. The Gothic tower, designed by Iliibsch, 
was erected in 1850-57; the open spire has a platform on each 
side, which commands an excellent survey of the town and lake 
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CONSTANCE. 10. Route. 29 

iNTERioK. On the doors of Ihe chief portal are Reliefs in 20 sections, 
from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Simon Haider in 1470. * Choir- 
stalls, with satirical sculptures, of the same date. The organ-loft was 
enriched in the Renaissance style in 1680. In the nave, which is borne by 
16 monolith columns (28' high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the entrance, 
is a large stone slab , with a white spot which always remains dry when 
the rest is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood on 6th July, 
1415, when the Council sentenced him to be burnt at the stake. The N. 
chapel adjoining the choir contains a -Death of the Virgin, in stone, date 
1460. In the left aisle is the monument of /. //. v. Wessenberg (see below). 

The Treasurt (verger V2-I m.) contains missals of 1426 with miniatures. 
On the E. side of the church is a Cktpt, containing the Chapel of the Se- 
pulchre, a representation of the Holy Sepulchre in stone, 20' high (13th 
cent.). Adjoining the church on the K. stand two sides of the once hand- 
some 'Cloistees. 

The Wbssenbeeg-Haus (PI. 15; B,3), once the residence of the 
benevolent Hr. v. Wessenherg (d. I860), who for many years was 
the administrator of the bishopric, contains a collection of pictures, 
engravings (daily, 9-12 and 2-5), and books (Mon., Wed., and 
Sat. 2-4, Sun. 11-12), bequeathed by him to the town. 

The late-Gothic church of St. Stephen (PI. 6; B,4), of the 15th 
cent., with its slender tower, but disfigured externally, contains 
interesting sculptures in wood and stone. 

The Wessenberg-Str. leads hence to the Obere Markt, at the cor- 
ner of which is the house ^Zum Hohen Hafen (PI. 2 ; B, 4), where, 
according to the modern inscription, Frederick, Burgrave of Nurem- 
berg, was invested with the March of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigis- 
mund on 18th April, 1417. Adjacent is an old house (now the 
Cafe Barbarossd), styled by the inscription Curia Pads, in which 
Emp. Frederick I. concluded peace with the Lombard towns in 
1183. — A little to the W. is the new Prot. Church (PL 5; A, 4). 

The Stadt-Kanzlei , or Town Hall (PL 12; B, 4, 5), erected 
in 1593 in the Renaissance style, and recently embellished on the 
facade with frescoes relating to the history of Constance, contains the 
Municipal Archives in the lower rooms (2800 charters , chiefly from 
the Reformation period). Handsome inner court. — Opposite at Sar- 
tori's bookshop M. Vincent's interesting collection of stained glass 
is now partly exhibited. — In the market-place stands a Wingless 
Victory, by Baur (PL 10), erected in memory of the war of 1870-71. 

The Rosgaeten (PL 8; B, 5), the old guild -house of the 
butchers, contains the *Rosgarten Museum, a fine collection of an- 
tiquities of Constance and natural history specimens (adm. 40 pf.). 

The Kaufhaus(P1. 1 ; C, 4) on the lake, erected in 1888, contains 
the large hall, 52 yds. long, 35 yds. wide, and borne by ten mass- 
ive oaken pillars, where the conclave of cardinals met at the time 
of the Great Council (1414-18). The hall has lately been restored 
and adorned with frescoes by Pecht and Schicorer from the history 
of the town (adm. 20 pf.). Upstairs a collection of Indian and 
Chinese curiosities, the property of the castellan (40 pf. ). 

The Dominican Monastery in which Huss was confined, on 
an island, has been partly converted into a hotel ('Insel-Hotel', 



30 Route II. KREUZLINGEN. 

p. 28). The well-preserved Romanesque cloisters (with frescoes by 
Haberliii , illustrating the history of the convent) and the Unciy 
vaulted diiiiiiK-room ( formerly the church) are worthy of a visit. 

Pleasant promenade in the Stadtyarten on the lake, with a 
marble bust of Emp. AVilliam I. and charming view. 

The house in which Huss was arrested, in the Hussen-Strasse 
near the Schnetzthor (PI. A, 5), is indicated by a tablet with a por- 
trait of the reformer in relief, put up in 1878. Adjoining it is an 
old relief, of 1415, with derisive verses. Some houses farther on, at 
the 'Obere Laube', a bronze tablet with an inscription designates the 
spot where Jerome of Prague was imprisoned in 1415-16. In the 
BriiU, to the W. of the town, 1/2 M. from the Prot. Church (p. 29), 
a large boulder with inscriptions marks the spot where these illus- 
trious reformers suffered martyrdom. 

Fine view of the lake and the Vorarlberg and Appcn/.cll Alps from 
the •Allmannsltdhe (3/4 hr.), with belvedere (refreshm.), 5 min. above the 
village of Allmaiuisdovf, on the road to the Mainau. — Pleasant walks to 
the Loretto - Kapelle ('/2 hr.); the Jacob, a restaurant with a fine view 
('/2 hr.); and the Kleine Rigi, above Miinsterlingen (Inn; 1 hr.). 

In the N. W. arm of the Lake of Constance (Uebei'linrjer See, p. 28), 
41/2 M. from Constance, lies the pretty island of ''Mainau, formerly the seat 
of a commandery of the Teutonic order, as is indicated by a cross on the 
S. side of the chateau, which was built in 1746. The island, I'/'i M. in 
circumference, is connected with the mainland by an iron bridge 650 paces 
long. Since 1853 it has been the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and 
is laid out in pleasure-grounds. Steamboat from Constance in 55 min. ; 
small boat (a pleasant trip of 1 hr.) 5m. and gratuity; carriage and pair (in 
V2 hr.) 8 m. ; walkers take a shorter route, partly through pleasant woods 
(1 hr.). 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur 

(Zurich) . 

Comp. Maps, pp. 2S, 24. 

60 M. Railway (NordoMahn) in iVi-bVi hrs. (fares 9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 95, 
4 fr. 85 c). 

Rorschach, see p. 50. The line skirts the lake of Constance, 
of which it affords pretty glimpses. Rising conspicuously above the 
woods on the N. bank is Heiligenberg (1066' above the lake), a 
chateau of Prince Fiirstenberg. Stations Horn (p. 50), Arbon 
(*Bar ; Engel ; Kreuz) , a small town on the site of the Roman 
Arbor Felix. — 7'/2 M. Egnach. 

91/2 ^I- Romanshorn, see p. 47 ; the station is close to the steam- 
boat-pier. 12 M. Uttivyl; 13 m. Kesswyl (Biir; Pens. Seethal), 
well-to-do villages. To the riglit, on the lake, the Moosburg is 
visible. — 95 M. Giiltingen, with a chateau ; 16 M. Altnau ; I81/2 M. 
Miinsterlingen, formerly a Benedictine abbey, now a lunatic asylum. 
• — 21 M. Kreuzlingen (* Helvetia; Lowe), a pleasant little town 
with the old Atigustinian abbey of that name, at present a seminary 
for teachers. The church contains a curious piece of wood-carving 
of the 18th cent., with about 1000 small figures. 



STECKBORN. 11. Route. 31 

22 M. Constance (a terminus station), see p. 28. The train 
backs out and runs towards the W. through a fertile district. 23 M. 
Emmit>hofen- Eyelshofen, 25 M. Tdgerweilen, thriving villages ; 
on the Rhine, to the right, GottUeben (p. 25]. Near (28 M.) 
Ermatingen f^JIoL-Pens. Adler, 'pens.' incl. R. 4'/2-5 fr. ; Krone) 
we approach the green Vntersee, which we now skirt. Charming 
views; in the distance, to the N.W., rise the peaks of the Hohgau 
(p. 25). Near Ermatingen, on the height to the left, are the cha- 
teaux of Wolfsherg and Hard; then Arenaberg (p. 25), and near 
(281/2 M.) Mannenbach (*'Pens. Schiff, 4-5 fr.) the handsome Salen- 
stein (comp. p. 25). To the right, in the lake, the large island of 
Reichenau (p. 24); on the left, Schloss Eugensbery (p. 25). At 
f 3OY2 M.) Berlingen the Untersee attains its greatest width [5 M. ), 
after which it divides into two branches. 

32 M. Steckborn (*Ldive ; Krone ; Sonne), a small town with 
a castellated 'Kaufhaus', lately restored. Below it, on the right, 
the iron-foundry of Feldbach, once a nunnery. On the right, 
farther on, the mansion of Glarisegg ; to the left, in the wood, 
the ruin of Neuburg. On the opposite (N.) bank are Wangen and 
the hydropathic establishment of Marbach (p. 25). 

36 M. Mammern (Ochs, at the station), Avith a chateau, used as 
a *Hydropathic Establishment (pension). Then, on the right bank, 
Oberstaad , and on the hill the abbey of Oehningen (p. 25). At 
(37 M.) Eschenz the Untersee again narrows into the Rhine (p. 25). 
We follow the left bank to the station for (39 M.) Stein (*Sonne; 
*Rabe, moderate), on the right bank, commanded by the castle 
of Hohenklingen ; and then turn to the left to (41 M.) Etziceilen, 
the junction for Singen (p. 24). 

On the left, as we proceed to the S., is the vine-clad and 
wooded Stammheimer Berg (1716'). 43' 9 M. Stammheim , a large 
village; 48' 2 M. Ossingen. We now cross the Thur by a bold iron 
bridge, 148' high, borne by seven iron buttresses. Stations Tlinl- 
heiju-AUikon, Dynhard, Seuzach, and Ob erw inter thur, a small town 
with an old Romanesque church (tower modern), the Roman Vito- 
durum (p. 46). 

60 M. Winterthur and thence to (76^2 M.) Zurich, see p. 46. 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich. 

Coiitp. Maps, pp. 24, 3S. 

35 31. Railwat (Xordostbahn) in 2 hrs.; to Winterthur 1 Lr., to Zurich 
1 hr. (fares 6 fr., 4 fr. 20 c, 3 fr.). Views on the right. 

Schaffhausen , see p. 23. The line skirts the lofty Fasenstaub 
Promenade (p. 24), and passes below the villa Charlottenfels (p. 23). 
On the right, high above, is the Waldshut railway (p. 23), which 
passes through a tunnel under Charlottenfels. Immediately beyond 
a long cutting we cross the Rheinfallbriicke (see p. 26), obtaining 



32 Route 13. ZURICH. 

a glinipso of the t;tlU to tlic riglit, and enter a tunnel, 71 yds. lonjr, 
under Scldosft Laufen (p. 27j. On emerging, and looking back to 
the right, we obtain another beautiful glance at the falls. 

3 M. Dachsen (1296'; *H6tel Witzig, 11. & B. 2 fr. 75, B. 1 fr. 
30 1-.) lies 1 M. to the S. of Schloss Laufen (comp. p. 26). As the 
train proceeds, it affords pleasing views atintervals of the bluish-green 
Rhine in its deep and narrow channel , enclosed by wooded banks. 

51/-2 M. Marthalen. The valley of ( IQi/oM.) Andelfingen (1298'; 
Lowe) soon begins to open, and that thriving village appears in the 
distance to the right, on the steep bank of the Thur. We approach it 
by a wide curve, and cross the Thur above the village by an iron 
bridge 113' high. We then skirt the river for a short distance, and 
reach Andelfingen on the S. side. The site of the station has been 
excavated in an ancient moraine. 

The route is now less interesting. 13 M. Henggart, '/o ^- *" the 
N.W. of which is the chateau of Goldenberg (pens., moderate). 
14 M. Hettlingen. The vine-clad slopes of Neftenbach, to the right, 
produce the best wines in N. Switzerland, the finest of which is 
Oallenspitz. Near Winterthur the broad valley of the Toss is entered. 

19 M. Winterthur, and thence to (35 M.) Zurich, see p. 46. 

13. Ziirich and the Uetliberg. 

Hotels. "^HoTEL Baur au Lac (PI. a; C, 3 ; closed in winter), with a 
pardon on the lake, and delightful view, R., L., & A. from 5-6, lunch S'/^j 
I). 5 fr. ; 'Kkllevue fPl. b; C, 4), on the lake, with fine view, R., L., <fe A. 
4'/2-5, 1). 4-5 fr.: 'National (PI. d; F, 3), 'Victoria (PI. c; F, 3), R., 
L., & A. 3'/2-5, D. 4 fr., both oppcsite the station; *H. ve l'EimSk (PI. e; 
E, 4), by the lower bridge, R. & L. from 3, D. 3-3V2 fr. ; *H6tel Baur- 
ViLLK (PI. f; D, ,3), R., L., & A. from 3, D. 4 fr. ; -Hotel Habis (PI. g ; F, 8), 
R., L., & A. 21/2-31/2, B. I1/4, D. 31/2 fr., at the station; *Hotel de Zurich 
(PI. h; 0, 5j, R., L., & A. S'A, D- 31/2 fr.; 'CiGOGNe (PI. i; D, 4), commer- 
cial; 'St. Gotthard (PI. k; F, 3) and *Wanner's Hotel (PI. 1; F, 3), 
Bahnhof - Str.; Bayrischer Hof (PI. ra ; F, 3) and *Stadthof (PI. n ; F, 3, 4), 
both near the station, moderate; Hot. Central (PI. o; F, 4), on the right 
bank of the Limmat, near the station, U. incl. wine 3 fr. ; "Schweizeriiof 
(PI. p; K, 4), R. &. A. 21/2, B. 11/,, I)., incl. wine, 31/2 fr., and 'Limmathof 
(Pl.q; F, 4), on the Liminat-Quai ; Rothes Habs (PI. r; D, 4), and Seehof 
(PI. s ; D, 4, 5), on the Uto-Quai; '"Sonne, Krone, Hirsch, Lamm, Lowe, etc., 
unpretending. Visitors are received at all these hotels ett pension, the 
charges being reduced in spring and autumn. — Pensions. "Pension Neptun 
at Seefeld, near Ziirich, 6-7 fr.; near it, *Weisses Kredz and Pension 
Hacser; Sonne, at Unterstrass; Tiefenau, at Hottingen; Karolinenburo 
and Forster, at Fluntern, on the hill, IV2 M. to the E. of Ziirich. The 
BOrgli Terrace and Waiu, see p. 33. The 'Uetliberg, see p. 37. 

Restaurants and Cafes. 'Rail. Restaurant; Cafis National and Hahis, 
both near the station; St. Gotthard, irawner, Bahnhof-Str. ; Baur; Central, 
Centralhof. On the right bank : Kronenhalle, D. incl. wine 2 fr. ; Tonhalle 
(seep. 33), on the lake, 1). (11 to 2) 3 fr.; /Saif;'a», opposite the Rathhaus ; 
Summer Restaurant in the Platz Promenade. — Ices. Sprilngli, Parade- 
Platz; Bourry, Untere Kirchgasse, on the Uto-Quai. — Beer. Cafi Orsini, 
Frau-Miinsterplatz, behind the Hotel Baur; Gambrinus, SchofTelgasse; Siadi- 
keller, behind the Limmathof; Metzgerhriiu, Beatengasse ; Boiler, on the 
quay; Weishaar, Steingiisse; Sfrohhof; Cafe de Paris; Blaue Fahne; Meierei, 
etc.; Drahlschmidli, opposite the Platzspitz (PI. H, 3), with garden on the 




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ZURICH. 13. Route. 33 

Limmat; also at the above cafe's. — Wine. Valtellina wine at the Vellliner- 
halle. Italian wines : Fratelli Dorta, in the Eiermarkt. 

Popular Besorts. 'Tonhalle (PI. C, 5) on the lake, with an open pavi- 
lion and restaurant; concerts every evening in summer (60 c). Flora 
Theater, open both summer and winter. Zitr Platte (PI. E, 6), winter- 
garden, adjoining the Polytechnic (theatre in summer). 'BUrgli Terrace, 
1/2 M. to the S.W., on the road to the Uetliberg (p. 38). The ~Waid 
on the Kaferberg , 3 M. to the N. W. of the town. The "Sonnenberff, 
on the slope of the Ziirichherg, above Hottingen. The "Uetliberg is the 
finest point in the environs (by railway in ','2 hr. ; see p. 37). — Informa- 
tion as to excursions, objects of interest, etc., may be obtained at the 
Offizielles Verkehrs-Bureau. on the ground-floor of the Exchange buildings. 

Baths in the lake at the Stadthaus-Platz (PI. C, 4), at the suburb of 
Enge (PI. A, 3), and, for ladies , in the Limmat below the Bauschanzc 
(PI. C, D, 4). At the S. end of the town, on the E. bank of the lake, are 
the Netimiinster Baths (PL D, 5). — Warm Baths (vapour, etc.) at the Werd- 
miihle Baths, in the Bahnhof-Str., and at Stacker's, in the Miihlgarten. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 3), Bahnhof-Strasse ; branch-offices 
by the museum on the Limmat-Quai (p. 35) and at the railway-station. 

Cabs. Drive within the town, or not e.xceeding '/» lir., 1-2 pers. 80c., 
3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c., each box 20c.; in the evening 10c. extra for the lamps; 
from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. For V2 lir., 1 fr. 50 c. or 2 fr. 20c.; 
3/4 hr., 2fr. or 2 fr. 90 c; 1 hr., 2 fr. 50c. or 3fr. 60 c. etc. 

Tramway from the Central Station through the Bahnhof-Str. to the 
suburb of Enge, across the Bahnhofbriicke and by the Limmat-Quai and 
Uto-'Juai to Riesbach and Tiefenbrvnnen (near Zollikon), and from the 
Parade-Platz, eastwards to the cemetery of Anssersihl. 

Cable Tramway (Ziirichbergbahn) from the Limmat-Quai to the Poly- 
technic (PI. F, 4, 5). every few min. from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (in summer from 
G a.m. to 9.30 or 10 p.m.; fare, in either direction, 10 c. ; journey 2V2min.). 
The tramway, which is an interesting specimen of engineering skill, is 
185 yds. long and mounts to a height of 130 ft. 

Steamboats (see p. 39) start below the Tonhalle (PI. C, 5) and at the 
Stadthaus-Platz. — Rowing-boats for 1-2 pers. 50 c. per hour ; for 3 or more 
pers. 20c. each per hour; each rower 60c. per hour. 

Railway Stations. Central Station (PI. F, G, 3, 4) at the lower (N.) 
end of the town , 3/4 31. from the lake (omnibus 75, each box 20 c). — 
Enge Station (PI. B. 2), on the left bank of the lake (p. 41). — Uetliberg 
Station, at Selnau (PI. D, 1, 2 ; see p. 37). 

English Church Service in the Chapel of St. Anne (PI. E, 3), near the 
Pelikan-Str.. at 8.30, lU.30, & 5.30 (3.30 in winter). Chaplain: Rev. Dr. .1/. 
Heidenheini (editor of Anglican Church Leaves). — Presbyterian Service 
(Church of Scotland) in summer. 

British Consul. Henry Angst. Esq., 7 Centralhof; office -hours 10-12. 
— American Consul. Geo. L. Catlin, Esq., Borsen-Str. 14 , offlce-hours 
9-12 and 3-4 p.m. 

Permanent Exhibition, at Staub tO Ws., Parade-Platz (gratis). 

Zurich (1345'; pop. 27,632, or with the suburbs upwards of 
86,000), the Roman Turicum, the capital of the canton, lies at the 
N. end of the lake, on the green and rapid ijmma<, which divides it 
into the ' Orosse StadV on the right , and the ^Kleine Stadf on the 
left bank. On the W. side flows the Sihl, an unimportant stream ex- 
cept in spring, which falls into the Limmat below the town. Ziirich 
is one of the busiest manufacturing towns in Switzerland, silk and 
cotton being the staple products. (There are 10,000 silk-looms in 
this canton.) At the same time it is the intellectual centre of German 
Switzerland. Its schools are in high repute, having for centuries sent 
forth men of distinction, such as Bodmer, Hottinger, Orelli, Gessner, 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 3 



34 Route 13. ZURICH. Situation. 

Lavater, Hess, Pestalozzi, Heidegger, Horner, Hirzel, Henry Meyer, 
the friend of Goethe, and many others. 

The Situation of Zurich is very beautiful. Both banks of the clear, 
pale-green lake are enlivened with villages, orchards, and vineyards, scat- 
tered over a highly cultivated country. In the background rise the snow- 
capped Alps; to the left is the crest of the Glcirnisch, then the perpendicular 
sides of the Oriese/stock (,9200')., near it on the right the P/annstock, and farther 
on, the Drusberg., the ice-clad Bifertenstock. and the Todi (the highest of the 
group, the two last rising above the Linththal); in front of these the Cla- 
rideii, with their westernmost point the A'awwwZwtoct (10,610'); between this 
and the double-peaked Scheerhorn lies the Gries Glacier; then on the N. 
side of the Schachenthal the long Ross-Slock Chain with its fantastic peaks; 
the broad Windgelle ; between this and the Scheerhorn appears the dark 
summit of the lower Mylhe near Schwyz ; above the depression between 
the wooded Kaiserslock and the Rossberg towers the pyramidal Bristenslock, 
near Amsteg on the St. Gotthard route ; then, if we occupy a commanding 
position, the Blackenstock and Uri-Rothstock , and part of the snow-moun- 
tains of the Engelberger Thai, appearing above the Albis. To the right 
rises the Albis, the northernmost point of which is the Uetliberg, with the 
hotel on its summit. 

As the beauty of its situation is the great attraction of Zurich, our 
walk through the town is so planned as to conduct the traveller to the 
finest Points of View in the shortest possible time. No one should omit 
to visit the Terrace in front of the Polytechnic and the Jlohe Pro/nenade. 

In the Baknhof - Platz (PI. F, 4) a bronze Statue of Alfred 
Escher (d. 1882), the statesman and founder of the St. Gotthard 
Railway, by Kissling, was erected in 1889. The Bahnhof-Strasse 
(PI, F, C, 3), nearly ^j^ M. long, leads hence S. to the lake. It passes 
on the right, in the Linth-Escher-Platz (PI. F. 3), the Linth-Escher 
School; then, on the right, the Post Office and the Credit- Anstalt 
(PI. D, 3) ; on the left the Centralhof, a block of houses with tempt- 
ing shops, and the Kappeler Hof; and on the right the Ziirich Can- 
tonal Bank and the Exchange (PI. C, 3). The Stadthaus - Platz, 
which is adorned with flower-beds and shrubs , is adjoined by a 
Terrace on the lake (PI. C, 4), commanding a beautiful view; to 
the right of the latter is the steamboat-quay, to the left, a bathing- 
establishment (p. 33). The broad Alpen-Quai skirts the lake to the 
right as far as the attractive new *Park, near the suburb of Enge; 
in the park, which enjoys a fine view of the town , the lake, and 
the Alps, is an Arboretum with Alpine and foreign plants and 
interesting geological specimens. 

To the E. from the Stadthaus-Platz the handsome *Quaibriicke 
(PI. C, 4; 180 yds. long), constructed in 1882-83 by Holzmann 
andBenkiser, crosses the Limmat near its issue from the lake. Below 
the bridge, on the left bank of the Limmat, is the Bauschanze, a 
small pentagonal island with walled sides (formerly a bastion), 
shaded with trees, and connected with the bank by a bridge. On 
the right bank, we cross the Touhalle-Platz and ascend the Rami- 
Strasse (to the left is the Swiss exhibition of articles used in build- 
ing, adm. free), then turn to the right to the *Hohe Promenade 
(PI. C, 5, 6), a loftily situated avenue of lime-trees. Beautiful view 
(best by morning - light, see Panorama by Keller) from the plateau 
with the Monument of Ndyeli (d. 1836), a favourite vocal composer, 



Polytechnic. ZURICH. ij. Route. 35 

erected 'von den schweizerischen Sangervereinen ihrem Vater Na- 
geli'. Adjacent is the old Cemetery (PI. C, 5, 6), containing many 
handsome monuments. 

From the N. end of the Hohe Promenade a road passing the N. side 
of the cemetery rejoins the Rami-Strasse, at a square, planted with 
trees, in which (to the left) is the marble monument of Ignaz Eeim 
(1883), who set many Swiss popular songs to music. The street 
ascends past the Tum-Platz to the Cantonal School (PI. E, 6), com- 
prising a grammar and an industrial school, and then bends to the 
N. To the left is the new Physical Institute, to the right are the 
Cantonal Hospital (PI. F, 6), the School of Forestry and Agriculture, 
and the new Chemical Laboratory (PI. G, 5). 

The handsome *Polytechnic (PL F, 5), designed by G. Semper 
(d. 1878), and erectedin 1861-64, is the seat of the University of Zurich 
(founded in 1832; 400 students, 88 professors and lecturers) and 
of the federal Polytechnic School (founded in 1855; 800 students). 

In the vestibule and on tbe staircase are busts of Kopp and Bolley, tlie 
chemists, O. Semper (d. 1879), and Culinann, the engineer. On the ground- 
floor are the Archaeological Collection (casts, Greek vases, 'Terracottas from 
Tanagra, etc.; Sun. 10-12, Tues. and Frid. 2-4); on the first floor the Mine- 
ralogical and Palaeontological ; on the second floor the Zoological Collection 
(Thurs. 8-12 and 2-6) and the Aula, handsomely decorated , with mytho- 
logical ceiling-paintings by Bin of Paris and a marble bust of Orelli (d. 
1849), the celebrated philologist , by Meili. Splendid view from the bal- 
cony. The Collection of Engineering is shown only to professional engi- 
neers. The Mechanical and Technical Collection is open daily , 8-12 and 
2-6 (adm. 50 c); the Semper Museum (in the Architectural School), on Mon., 
Wed., & Sat. 2-4 (gratis). 

The terrace of the Polytechnic commands the finest survey of 
the town. — To the S. of the Polytechnic, on the slope of the hill, is 
s.n Asylum for the Blind and I>umh{?\. 5); lower down to the left, 
the Kunstgebaude ('Kiinstler-Giitli' ; PI. E, 5), containing the Pic- 
ture Gallery of the Artists' Union (open on Sat. 2-4, Sun. 10-12, 
free ; at other times, 60 c). 

Pictures by the older Zurich artists (chiefly portraits) : ff. Asper, J. 
Ainmann, S. Hofmann, K. Meyer^ and others. Millenet, Return of the Zii- 
richers from the battle of Tattwyl ; Angelica Kauffmann, Winckelmann ; 
Fussly, Portrait of Bodmer; L. Hess, Landscapes; Scheuchzer, The Fuscher- 
thal; Deschwanden, The Maries at the Sepulchre; Steffan, Mountain tor- 
rent; Boschard, Scenes from the history of Zurich; Roller, The Engel- 
berger Thai, Midday repose, Autumn evening ; Holzhalb , The Wetter- 
horn; Diday, At the Handeck, Scene in the Valais; Yeillon , Evening on 
the Lake of Lucerne; Girardet, The sick child; Anker, Pestalozzi; Grob, 
The artist on his travels; Frohlicher, Forest scene in Upper Bavaria; Toiler, 
Wedding in the Amperthal; Corrodi, Uncle and nieces; Eug. Girardet, 
Halt in the desert ; Stiickelberg, Charcoal-burner in the Jura ; Buchser, 
Italian pastoral scene ; 'Siicklin, Spring ; Baade, Sea-pieces ; Rigaud, Por- 
traits ; Tischbein, Portrait of Bodmer ; Marie Ellenrieder, Portrait of a man. 

We descend from the Kunstgebaude to the lower town, either 
by steep streets or (preferably) by the cable -tramway (p. 33) from 
the N.E. side of the Polytechnic, and turn to the left along the 
Limmat-Quai. At the Markthrucke (PI. E, 4) we see on our left 
the Rathhaus (PI. D, E, 4), a massive building of 1699, on our right 

3* 



36 Route 13. ZURICH. Town Library. 

the handsome Fleischhalle, or meat-market (PI. E, 4), and opposite 
to it the Lese-Museum (introduction by a member required). 

Crossing the Rathhaus-Quai on which is the Riiden, restored in 
the German Renaissance style, containing the Swiss educational 
exhibition and the Pestalozzi cabinet, we next come to the Milnster- 
briicke (PI. D, 4). Adjoining the bridge on the left is an open 
vestibule leading to the Town Library (apply at the shop in the cor- 
ner to the right), established in an old church (1479), known as 
the Wasserkirche, from its having once stood in the water, and en- 
larged in 1860. It contains 110,000 vols, and many valuable MSS. 
(open on week-days 9-12 and 4-6 ; fee 50 c., for a party 1 fr.). 

A letter of Zwinrjli (see below) to his wife; Zwiugli's Greek Bible with 
Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting ; autograph letter of Henry I V. 
of France and a cast of his features; three autograph Latin letters of Lady 
Jane Orey to Antistes Bullinger; letter o( Frederick the Great, dated 1784, 
to Prof. Miiller-, Portraits of burgomasters and scholars of Ziirich, includ- 
ing Zioingli; marble bust of Lavater by Dannecker; marble bust of Pesta- 
lozzi by Imhof-, eight panes of stained glass of 1506. "MiiUer''s Relief of part 
of Switzerland, and one of the Engelberger Thai on a much larger scale, 
are executed with great care and accuracy. 

The Helmhaus, adjoining the Wasserkirche, contains the Anti- 
quarian Museum (adm. daily, 8-12 and 2-6, fee 50 c. Wed. after- 
noon free), including a large and excellent collection of relics from 
the ancient Swiss lake-villages, coins, etc. — On the Quai at the 
W. end of the Wasserkirche is a bronze Statue ofZwingli (see bolow), 
by Natter, erected in 1885. 

The steps opposite the Miinsterbrucke lead to the Gross-Munster 
(PI. D, 4), erected in the Romanesque style of the 11 - 13th cen- 
turies. The upper stories of the towers are Gothic, and in 1799 
they were crowned with helmet- shaped tops with gilded flowers. 
On the W. tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown and 
sword, in recognition of donations made by him to the church. The 
choir contains three large modern stained-glass windows represent- 
ing Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. — Zwingli was the incumbent 
of this church from 1519 down to his death in 1531 (p. 71). 

On the adjacent si(e of the residence of the canons now stands the 
Toehlerschule , erected in 1851 in the same style as the church. In the 
interior are Cloisters, of the beginning of the 13th cent., which were 
restored in 1851 , and adorned with a statue of Charlemagne. — The 
church and cloisters are open daily in summer from 11 to 12 (adm. 20c.). 

We now return by the Miinsterbrucke to the left bank of the 
Limmat. On the left we pass the Frau-Miinsterkirche (PI. T>, 4), 
built in the middle of the 13th cent., with a high red-roofed tower. 
Adjacent is the Peterskirche with its massive tower and large 
electric clock (dials 29' in diameter) , where Lavater (d. 1801) 
was pastor for twenty-three years. In the direction of the Bahn- 
hof-Str., is the late-Gothic Augustine Church (PI. E, 3), which 
served for three hundred years as a magazine, but was again fitted 
up as a church in 1848, and is now used by the 'Old Catholics'. Two 
altar-pieces by Descliwanden. 



Botanic Garden. ZtfRICH. 13. Route. 37 

In the vicinity , nearly in the centre of the town , rises the 
Lindenhof (PI. I) , 3 , 4) , 123' above the Limmat, once a Celtic 
settlement, and afterwards an imperial palace. A little to the N. 
are the large House of Correction (PI. E, F, 3, 4) and the Orphan 
Asylum (PI. F, 4). 

Crossing the Bahnhof-Str. and following the Pelikan-Str., we 
reach the Botanic Garden (PI. D, 2), which is well stocked with 
Alpine plants , and (contains hronze busts of A. P. de Candolle 
(d. 1841) and Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), and marble busts of 
H. Zollinger, a Swiss botanist (d. in Java, 1859), and Oswald Heer 
(d. 1883), the naturalist. In the garden rises the Eatz, a bastion 
of the old fortress, forming a lofty platform planted with trees. 

To the E. of the Botanic Garden a bridge crosses the Schanzen- 
graben (the old moat) to the suburb of Selnau. Immediately to the 
left is the Gewerbe-Museum (PI. D, 2), containing industrial collec- 
tions (including a *Room from a patrician house of the 17th cent, 
with fine panelling and stove) and a permanent exhibition (seen 
daily, 8-12 and 2-5, except Mon.). Beyond it, towards the >Sihl, is 
the Uelliherg Station (PI. D, 1 ; see below). 

In Aussersihl, a new artizans' quarter on the left bank of the 
Sihl, is the Military Depot oH^Sinton Ziirich, including barracks and 
an arsenal. The Collection of Arms in the arsenal (PI. F, G, 1 ; 
open on week-days 8-12 and 1.30-6) consists of battle-axes, hal- 
berds, armour, flags, and cross-bows, among which last is one of the 
many which claim to have belonged to Tell. Zwingli's Battle-axe, 
taken by the Lucerners at Kappel (p. 71), and once kept at Lucerne, 
was transferred hither, after the War of the Separate League in 1847, 
and is now preserved here with his sword, coat of mail, and helmet. 
— In the Grosse Werdstrasse in Aussersihl is the new Roman 
Catholic Church (PL E, 1), embellished with good stained glass 
and altarpieces by Balmer and iJeschwanden. 

The Platzpromenade (PI. G, H, 3, 4j, so called from the former 
Schiitzen-Platz, an avenue of fine trees, to the N. of the railway-station, 
between the Sihl and Limmat, aflords a cool and pleasant walk. In this 
promenade are the Nageli Museum of stuffed Alpine animals (.50 c), the town 
Aquarium (20 c.) and the simple monuments of the idyllic poet Salomon, 
Gessner (d. 1788J and the minnesinger Joh. Hadlaub. It terminates in the 
'Platzspitz', a point of land formed by the junction of the Sihl with the 
Limmat. A bridge crosses the Limmat to the Drahtschmidli (PI. H, 3j, a 
beer-garden on the right bank; and this is also the pleasantest route lo 
the Waid (p. 33; we ascend the flight of steps, behind the Drahtschmidli, 
to the right, to the upper road). — On the right bank of the Limmat, 
opposite the Platzpromenade, lies the manufacturing quarter of Zurich, 
with the extensive engine -works of Escher, Wyss, <t Co. (PI. H, 4), who 
have built most of the steamboats that ply on the Swiss and Italian lakes. 

The TJetliberg. 

Railway to the top in V2 hr. (fare 1st class 3 fr. 50 c, 2nd cl. 2 fr.; 
return-ticket , 5 and 3 fr. ; family-tickets for 10 trips up and 10 down, 
available for a year, 20 f r. ; on Sun. and holidays from 10 a.m. 2nd cl. 
return-ticket 2 fr. This line, h^ji M. long, with a maximum gradient of 7' 
in 100', is constructed in the ordinary way, but, as on the Rigi Railway, the 



3S Jloute 13. UETLIBERG. 

locomotives are placed behind the trains. The station is in the subnrh 
of Selnau (p. 37; P. D, 1), not far from the Botanic Garden, on the Sihl, 
'/4 hr. from the Central Station and 12 rain, from that of Enge. 

The trai7i skirts the Sihl for a short distance and crosses it to 
(b min. ) Stat. Wiedikon (1390'), where the ascent begins. At first 
we traverse an open slope, with a pleasant view of Zurich and the 
valley of the Limmat, and then enter a wood. (17 min.) Stat. Wald- 
egg (2040'). The train then describes a long curve on the slope of 
the hill and reaches the terminus. About 5 min. above the station 
is the large *H6t.-Pens. Vetliberg (R. & A. 4-5, B. II/4, D. 4; pens, 
from Sept. onwards 7'/2-9 fr.), and 3 min. higher, at the top of the 
hill, is the ^Restaurant Vto- Kulm. Pleasant shady walks in the 
woods near the hotel. On the S. side, about 1/4 hr. from the top, on 
the footpath to Ziirich , is the *H6tel Uto-Staffel (pens. 5 fr.). 

The *TJetliberg (2864'), the northernmost point of the Albis 
range, is the finest point in the environs of Ziirich. The view, 
though inferior in grandeur to those from heights nearer the Alps, 
surpasses them in beauty. It embraces the Lake of Ziirich and the 
valley of the Limmat; the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau and 
the Stockhorn on the Lake of Thun, with the Rigi and Pilatus in the 
foreground ; to the W. the Jura, from the Chasseral on the Lake of 
Bienne to its spurs near Aarau , over which appear some of the 
Vosges Mts. ; farther N. are the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black 
Forest, and the volcanic peaks of the Hohgau, Hohentwiel, Hohen- 
howen, and Hohenstoffeln. The Abbey of Muri (9 M. distant), 
with a facade 750' in length, is distinctly seen by morning light 
(p. 21). Baden with its old castle (p. 19) is also prominent. A 
good panorama by Keller. — On the Uto-Kulm is a marble obelisk 
with a bust of the Ziirich statesman Jakob Dubs (d. 1879). 

Walk to the Uetliberg (2 hrs.). The road leads to the W. through 
the suburb of £nge. Where the telegraph-wires diverge to the left, we go 
straight on (to the left is the Biirgli, p. 33). After 1 M. (from the Hotel 
Baur) we cross the Sihl, turn to the left in the direction of the mountain, 
and reach (3/< M.) the AlbisgiiUi (tavern; cab to this point 2-3 fr.). We 
now turn to the right and ascend by a well-trodden path winding some- 
what steeply up the valley, to the Bdtel Uto-Staffel (see above), on the 
brow of the hill, where a view of the Rigi, Pilatus, and the Bernese 
Alps is disclosed. Near the inn is an inscription to the memory of F. von 
Diirler, who lost his life here in 1840. To the summit 20 min. more. 

From the Uetliberg to the Albis-Hochwacht, a beautiful walk of 
3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis range, and chiefly througli 
wood. A few minutes' walk beyond the Hotel Uto-Staffel (see above) Wf 
keep to the right where the path divides (finger-post), and follow a good 
path, which is even practicable for carriages , skirting the crest of the 
mountain. Fine view horn the Felsenegg (l{eata,nTa.nt; finger-post). To the 
left is the ravine of the Sihl, beyond it the blue lake with its thousand 
glittering dwellings, to the right the pretty Tiirler See, and farther distant 
a fertile hilly tract, with the Alps towering in the distance. — 2'/2 hrs. 
Ober- Albis (2GU0'; Inn). Beautiful view from the Albis-Hochwacht or 
Schnabel (28S5'), '/z '>''• to the S.; still more extensive from the Albishorn 
(3010'), '/2 ^'■- farther to the S. From the Hochwaclit a good forest-path 
leads to the E. (finger-post) to the forester's house of Unter-Sihlwald (good 
quarters), on the Sihl, and to (l'/4 hr.) Ilovgen (p. 40); while to the W. a 
road leads past the small Tiirler .See to (3 M.) Hansen (p. 71). 








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39 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and 
Walenstadt. 

Comp. Maps. pp. 52, 60. 

79 M. Railway to Coire by Wallisellen, Rapperswyl, Weesen, and Sar- 
gans in 33/4-4^4 hrs. (12 fr. 45, 8fr. 75, 6fr. 25 c.)- The train does not ap- 
proach the Lake of Zurich till it reaches Rapperswyl. — Railway on the 
Left (S.) Bank from Ziirich to Richterswyl and Glarus : to Ziegelbriicke 
(p. 43, junction for Weesen) 36 SI., in li/o-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4fr. 25, 3fr. 5c.); 
to Glarus, 43 M., in 2-21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c). Comp. E. 19. 

Steamboat, preferable to the railway, on the right (N.) bank to Rap- 
perswyl 7 times daily in 2V4 brs. (2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 80 c). Smaller steamers 
ply between the N. and S. banks. Steamboat on the left (S.) bank to 
Horgen 4-5 times daily in I-IV4 hr., to Richterswyl twice in 2 hrs. From 
Rapperswyl to Schmerikon, thrice daily in 1 hr. 10 minutes. 

The *Lake Of Zurich (1342'), 25 M. long, 21/2 M. broad at its widest 
part, and 470' deep, is fed by the Linth and drained by the Limmat. 
Its scenery, though with no pretension to grandeur, is scarcely 
equalled in beauty by that of any other Swiss lake. The banks rise 
in gentle slopes, at the base of which are meadows and arable land ; 
above these is a belt of vineyards and orchards, and on the E. side 
the hills, here about 2500' high, are wooded. Being sprinkled for 
a long distance with houses, villages, and manufactories, the banks 
are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of Ziirich. In the 
background a long chain of snow-clad Alps (see p. 34). 



i. Steamboat Journey. 



Left (W. & S.) Bank. 

The steamer passes the suburb 
of Enge. On the right rises the 
long ridge of the Albis ; before 
us in the distance tower the Alps 
of Uri and Glarus. Wollishofen, 
prettily situated, is the first sta- 
tion. The next (24 min. from 
Zurich) is Bendii'fcon (Lowe), be- 
longing to the T^aivish of Kilchberg, 
which lies on the hill above. A- 
bove stat. Riischlikon is the rustic 
Nidelbad (1 M. by the road), with 
a chalybeate spring and charming 
■walks. Stat. Ludretikon (Krone, 
rustic). Then — 

(3/4 hr.) Thalwyl (Adler, by 
the church, 1 M. from the lake), 
a large village, charmingly situat- 
ed. *View of the lake from the 
church, or better from the tower. 
Stat. Oberrieden ; then — 



Right (E. & N.) Bank. 

First station, Neumiinster, a 
suburb of Zurich, with a hand- 
some church loftily situated. Then 
Zoliikon, Ooldbach, and (1/2 ^^^ 
from Zurich) Kusnacht (*Sonne), 
with a seminary for teachers. 

Erlenbach , beautifully situa- 
ted. Between Herrliberg, and Thal- 
wil is the deepest part of the lake 
(470'). Stations Feldrneilen s^nd — 

Meilen (Lowe ; Sonne) , a 
large village with an old church, 
at the foot of the Pfannenstiel. 

The Ffannenstiel (OkensJw/ie, 
2418'), to which a good path ascends 
from Meilen in 1 hr., aifords a charm- 
ing view of the lakes of Zurich and 
Greifenand of the Alps from Sentis to 
Pilatus (panorama by Keller). Monu- 
ment to L. Oken (d. 1851), a famous 
naturalist, and refreshment-pavilion 
at the top. Panorama by Keller. 

At Obermeilen the first dis- 



40 Route 14. 



LAKE OF ZURICH. 



From Ziirioh 



Left (W. & S.) Bank. 

(I-I1/4 hr.) Horgen (pop. 
5476 ; Schwan ; *Luu-e ; Schutzen- 
haus, a cafe on the lake ), witli 
handsome houses chiefly belong- 
ing to the silk manufacturers, 
pleasantly situated amidst vine- 
yards and orchards. 

About l'/'2 M. above it is the A'«r- 
haus Bockeii (p. 72). The ° Zimmerhevg 
(1 hr.), see p. 72. — To Zug diligence 
daily in 21/2 hrs., see p. 72. 

The picturesque peninsula of 
Au, with its orchards and mea- 
dows, projects far into the lake 
on the S. bank {^Hotel, pension 
5 fr.). To the E., in the back- 
ground, rises the Speer (p. 44); 
to the left of it the Sentis, beyond 
which tower the Toggenburg Mts . ; 
to the right, above the lake, the 
wooded Hohe Rhonen (4042'), and 
farther distant the mountains of 
Glarus (comp. Keller's panorama). 

(2 hrs.) Wadenswyl (1348' ; 
pop. 6342 ; *Engel, facing the 
quay, R. IV2-2V2, B. 1, pens. 
5 fr. ; Hotel du Lac) is the largest 
village on the lake. 

Railway to Einsiedeln, see p. 96. 
— Diligence twice daily in Ihr.iOmin. 
via Schonenherg to the whey - cure 
resort of Hiitten (2428'; Biir ; Kreuz), 
prettily situated above the little 
HUttnersee. 

In a few minutes more the 
steamer reaches Richterswyl 
(pop. 3910; *Drei Koniye, or 
Post; *Engel), the last station on 
the S. bank. 

To SCHINDELLEGI fp. 96) S'/z M., 

by (IM.) Wollerau (2'/4M. to the E. is 
the prettily situated Kurhaus Feusis- 
lerg). The nearer footpath (55 min.) 
ascends to the right by the apothe- 
cary's at the end of Richterswyl, 
crossing the road several times and 
affording fine retrospects. By a large 
walnut-tree at the top of the first hill 
we take the narrow path to the left. 



Right (E. & N.) Bank. 
covery of lake - dwellings was 
made in 1854. Stations Vetikon, 
Mannedorf (Wilder Mann), and — 

Stafa (pop. 3835; Sonne; 
RossU ; Restaur, zum Seethal, with 
garden), the largest village on 
the N. bank, and noted for tlie 
prominent part it has always 
taken in all national movements. 

Near Stafa the lake attains its 
greatest breadth (2'/2M.). Fine 
view of the S. bank. Stations 
Kehlhof, Verikon, Schirmensee 
(Rossli). On the right are the 
small flat islands of Liltzelau and 
Vfnau, in front of the wooded 
heights of the Etzel. 

U/nau, the property of the abbey 
of Einsiedeln, contains a farm-house, 
and a church and chapel consecrated 
in 1141. Ulrich von Iluiten, the re- 
former, one of the boldest and most 
independent men of his time, sought 
refuge here when pursued by his 
enemies in 1523, and died a fortnight 
after his arrival, at the age of 36. His 
remains repose in the little church- 
yard, but the exact spot is unknown. 

Rapperswyl (pop. 2805; 
*Cygne, on the lake, R. 1V2-2, 
pens. 6-7 fr.; *HotelduLac, R., 
L., & A. 3V2 fr. ; Poste, at the 
station , with garden ; *Fr€ihof), 
a picturesquely situated town, 
lies at the foot of the Lindenhof, 
a hill planted with limes (flue 
view), on which rises a black 
marble column with the Polish 
eagle, erected in memory of the 
beginning of the hundred years' 
struggle of the Poles for indepen- 
dence. The old Sddoss, restored 
in 1871, contains the Polish Na- 
tional Museum, founded by Count 
R. Plater (adm. 1 fr. ; splendid 
view from the tower). The Parish 
Church, re-erected since a fire in 
1881, contains valuable sacred 
vessels. 



to Coire. WAGGITHAL. 14. Rnute. 41 

In 1878 the old wooden bridge connecting Rapperswyl with Hurden and 
Pfafftkon was replaced by the Seedamm, a viaduct 1024 yds. in length and 
12 yds. in width. Near the N. end are two iron bridges, each 47>/2 yds. long, 
and near the S. end a third, 95 yds. in length. There are also twenty other 
openings , each 10 yds. wide, and a swing-bridge 15V2 yds. long , for the 
passage of vessels. The Railway (from Kapperswyl to Pfafflkon, 3M., in 
lOmin.), the high-road, and a footway protected by a railing, cross the 
lake by means of this embankment. A walk upon it is recommended for 
the sake of the view. About 20 yds. below it, near the S. bank, rises the 
Dreilanderstein, an obelisk 33' in height, marking the convergence of the 
boundaries of the cantons of Ziirich, Schwyz, and St. Gallen, and bearing 
the arms of each. 

The upper part of the lake is grander and less thickly peopled 
than the lower. The mountains of Appenzell and Glarus form the 
background ; while in the extreme distance appear the Toggen- 
burg Mts. 

The steamer passes through the Seedamm and approaches the 
S. hank. To the right is the Etzel (p. 96). On the slope above 
tlie station of Altendorf lie the pilgrimage-chapel of St. Johann, 
and the Johannisburg Restaurant (pens., 4-5 fr. per day), with a 
fine view. In about 25 min. after leaving Rapperswyl, the steamer 
reaches the considerable village of Lachen (*Oc]is, moderate), and 
beyond the marshy promontory formed by the Wciggithaler Aa, it 
touches at the little Bad Nuolen, at the W. base of the Vntere 
Buchhery (1975'). It now steers across the lake to BoUingen, on the 
N. bank, with large quarries, and to (1 hr. 10 min. from Rappers- 
wyl) Schmerikon (*Rdssli; Seehof; Adler), situated at the upper 
end of the lake, near the mouth of the Linth (p. 43). 



ii. Hallway on the Left (S.) Bank from Ziirich to Ziegelbriicke 
(and Glarus). 

The train describes a wide curve round the town, crossing the 
Sihl twice, passes under the Uetliberg line, and at (3 M.) Enge 
(p. 33) approaches the lake, which it skirts all the way to Lachen, 
affording beautiful views to the left. Stations Wollishofen, Bendli- 
kon- Kilchberg, Ruschlikon, T/wtoyi (all described above), Oberrie- 
den, and (11 M.) Horgen (p. 40). The peninsula of ^u (station) 
lies to the left. I51/2 M- Wadenswyl (railway to Einsiedeln, see 
p. 90); 171/2 M- Eichterswyl. The lake attains its greatest width 
here (21/2 M.). Towards the E. rise the mountains of the Toggen- 
burg and Appenzell. To the left, farther on, are the islands of 
Vfnau and Liitzelau (p. 40). 21 M. Pfdffikon (Hot. Hofe); railway 
across the lake to Rapperswyl, see above. At (25 M.) Lachen (see 
above) the train quits the lake , and near (271/2 M.) Siebnen- 
Wangen it crosses the Wdggithaler Aa. 

W&ggithal. The road follows first the left and then the right bank 
of the deep channel of the Aa to (4 M.) Vorder- Wdggithal (2400'), pleas- 
antly situated in a green basin. It then leads through the defile of 
Stockerli, between the Grosse Aitberg (55S4'J on the right and the Gtigel- 
herg (3780') on the left, to (4 M.) Hinler-Waggithnl, or Innerthal (3800'), 
"" 1 M. beyond which we reach the Badhaus d- Kin/iai's of that name 



42 lioute 14. BACHTEL. From Zurich 

{closed in 1888). Pleasant excursions to the Au (20 min.); E. to the 
Fliischenlochquelle ('/4 hr.); to the Aaberli-Alp (35i6'), '/z hr.; Hohjldschen- 
Alp (4726'), I'/z hr. — The Grosse Auberg (5584'), ascended by the Bdrlaui- 
Alp in 3 hrs., and the Fluhberg, or Diethelm (6873'), by the Flaschli-Alp in 
4 hrs., are good points of view and present no difliculty (guide desirable). 
— From Innerthal to the Klonthal a pleasant route (to Eichisau 4 hrs. ; 
guide advisable). Skirting the Aabach, the path ascends, past the AabeiTi- 
Alp (3566') and the Obev-Alp (5060'), to the (2 hrs.) Karrenegg, or Schwein- 
alp Pass (5150'), and then descends by the BriischAlp and the Schwein-Alp 
to (2 hrs.) Richisau (p. 66). 

We now traverse a somewhat marshy plain to (31 M.) Reichen- 
burg. On the right rise the Glarus Mts., on the left the Untere and 
Obere Buchberg (p. 43), and above them the Speer (p. 44). 341/.2M. 
Bilten (Hirsch) ; in the 'Herrenstube' is a handsome apartment with 
artistic wood-carving of the 17th century. We cross the Linth Canal 
(p. 43) to the Rapperswyl and Coire railway at (36 M.) Ziegelbriicke 
(p. 43). Thence to (43 M.) Glarus, see p. 59. 

iii. Railway from Ziirich to Rapperswyl, Weesen, and Sargans. 

From Ziirich to (6 M.) Wallisellen, p. 46. The line traverses a 
flat district, near the right bank of the Olatt, which flows ont of 
the Greifensee (1440' ; not visible from the line). Stations Diiben- 
dorf, Schwerzenbach, and Ndnikon. — 14 M. Uster (1530'; Stern; 
Usterkof; Kreuz)^ a large manufacturing village, with 6795 inhab. 
On the right is the church with its pointed spire, and the loftily 
situated old castle with its massive tower, now the seat of the dis- 
trict court (Restaurant ; fine view). In the vicinity are several large 
cotton-mills, driven by the Aa, a brook near the railway. A little 
to the N.E. of (16 M.) Aathal is the Lake of Pfaffikon (1775'), of 
which we obtain a glimpse beyond the third short tunnel. The Alps 
of Glarus and Schwyz form the S. background. From (18 M. j 
Wetzikon branch-lines diverge to the N.W. to Pfaffikon and Effreti- 
kon (p. 46), and to the S.E. (in 10 min.) to Hinweil (Hirsch; 
Kreuz), at the N.W. base of the Bachtel (see below). Near (21 M.) 
Bubikon the line attains its highest level (1800')! 221/2 M. Riiti, 
with a former Prsemonstratensian abbey, is the junction of the Toss- 
thnl Line (p. 47). 

The Bachtel (3670' ; "Inn), 2 hrs. to the If.E. of Riiti, commands a fine view 
to the N.W. over the district of Uster, sprinkled with factories, and the lakes 
of Greifen and Pfaffikon ; to the S. the Lake of Zurich from Wiidenswyl 
to the Linth Canal, the Linth Valley as far as the bridge of aiollis, and the 
Alps from the Sentis to the Bernese Oberland. Consult Keller's Panorama 
at the inn. From Wald (p. 47; in '/< hr. from Ruti by rail), and from 
Hinweil (see above; small carriage to the top 7fr.), good paths lead to 
the summit in 11/2 hr. 

Beyond a tunnel the train descends , chiefly through wood. 
Near Jona (Schliissel), a pretty village almost adjoining Rappers- 
wyl, we descry the Alps of Schwyz to the S., and farther on, the 
Miirtschenstock, Schjiniserberg, Speer, and Sentis on the left. 

27 M. Rapperswyl, see p. 40. The station on the lake, near 
the steamboat-pier, is a terminus , from which the train backs out 



to Coire. WEESEN. 14. Route. 43 

on its departure. (Branch-line to Pfdffikon, see p. 41). Views 
to the right as far as Weesen. The line crosses the Jona, pass- 
es the nunnery of Wurmspach on the right, and returns to the 
bank of the lake near BoUingen (p. 41). In front of us towers 
the Miirtschenstock, above the wooded hills on the lake, and to the 
right of it are the Fronalpstock and the Schild near Glarus. 

34 M. Schmerikon, see p. 41. We now enter a broad valley 
traversed by the Linth (see below), which falls into the lake here. 
To the right, on the N.E. spur of the Vntere Buchberg (1975'), 
stands the ancient Schloss Orynau, with a frowning square tower. 

36 M. TItziiachri378'; *Ochs; Falke), a manufacturing village, 
lies on a hill to the left , surmounted by the church. (Diligence 
to Wattwyl in the Toggenburg 4 times daily in 21/4 hrs., p. 58.) 
To the left, on the hill, the monastery oi Sion (2317'). 361/2 M. 
Kaltbrunn-Benken. The wooded range on the right is the Obere 
Buchberg (2020'). 

A carriage-road leads from the station of Kaltbrunn-Benken or Utznacli 
to (3 M.) Rieden (2360'; Inn <£• Kurhaus znm RiissH, moderate), a beautifully 
situated health-resort, commanding charming views. Attractive excursions 
may be made thence to the top of the Speer (p. 44), in 31/2 hrs. ; via Alj) 
Breitenau to (2 hra.) Ebnat- Kappel (p. 58); etc. 

Near (397.2 M.) Schanis (1450'; *Hirsch; Lowe), another in- 
dustrial place , the ancient frontier of Rhsetia, several sharp skir- 
mishes took place between the French and the Austrians in 1799. 

We now approach the lAnth Canal, constructed in 1807-22 by 
Konrad Escher of Ziirich, connecting the Lake of Ziirlch with the 
Walensee, and, in conjunction with the Escher Canal, draining a 
once dismal and swampy region. The canal runs parallel with the 
railway at the foot of the Schdniser Berg (5470') ; to the right a 
striking view of the Valley of Glarus with its snow-mountains. 

On the opposite bank of the Linth Canal is the Linth- 
Colonie, originally a colony of poor people who kept the bed of 
the river clear before the canal was made, and now an agricultural 
institution. 4272 M. Ziegelbriicke (Hotel Berger) is the junction 
of the Glarus line, which soon diverges to the right (p. 59). The 
Weesen line passes through a cutting and rounds the Biberlikopf 
(p. 44) , the extreme spur of the Schaniser Berg. To the right 
tower the Wiggis and the Glarnisch (pp. 60, 66). The station of 
Weesen is 72 M. from the Walensee. 

4572M. Weesen — Hotels. Hotel Speer, at the station, V4M. from 
the lake, R., L., & A. 23/i, B. l\u S. 2V4, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Schwert, prettily 
situated on the lake, R. 2, pens. 6 f r. ; Hotel JIariahaldek, higher up on 
the slope, with fine view, pens. 6-7 fr. ; *Rossr,i, pens. 4-472 fr. Various 
less pretending inns in the '/"/#", the quarter of the village extending along 
the lake, with numerous gardens. — "Rail. Restaurant. — English Church 
Service in summer. 

Weesen (1410'), a favourite summer-resort, lies in a sheltered 
situation at the W. end of the Walensee. The Klosterberg yields 
good wine. 

KxouRsioNs. Shady paths ascend from the Fly and the Hotel Maria- 



44 lioute 14. WALENSEE. From Zilrieh 

halden to the (20 MinO Kap/enhevj, which affords a charming survey. — 
Pleasant walk (from tlie station 3/4 hr., or from stat. Ziegelbriicke 20 min.) 
to the top of the Biberlikopf (1896'); fine view of the Walensee and 
of the Linththal up to Netstall and down to the Bnchberg. — A very 
attractive excursion may he made by boat across the lake to (3/4 hr.) the 
hamlet of Betlis, prettily situated beside the ruin of Strahlegg at the foot 
of the Leistkamm. Fine view of Jliihlehorn, the Miirtschenstock, etc. 
From Betlis, we may walk to the ruined Serenmiihle and the Falls of the 
Serenbach (see below), or we may ascend to (1 hr.) Amden. 

A new road with line views of the lake, but destitute of shade, ascends 
from Weesen to (tV4 hr.) Amden or Ammon (2874'; Ilirsch}, loftily situated 
on sunny pastures. Most beautiful view at a small chapel to the right 
of the road, 3/4 hr. from Weesen. — From Amden to the top of the 
Leistkamm (6890'), S'/a hrs., with guide (Thoma of Amden), interesting and 
not difficult. — From Amden to Slarkenbach or Stei?i in the Toggenburg 
(p. 59), over the Amdener Berg (5056'), a route of 5 hrs., with beautiful 
views, but fatiguing on account of the stone pavement. 

The *Speer (6417'), an admirable point of view, 41/2-5 hrs. (guide unne- 
cessary for experts). At the church we turn to the left, and ascend for 
the first V2 hr. over rough pavement of conglomerate (pleasant retrospects 
of the lake). Then a steep ascent through woods and meadows; 2 hrs. 
Untere Biitz-Alp (3563'); ^4 hr. Unler-Kasern Alp (4337'); 1 hr. Ober-Kaseni 
Alp (5404'; 'Inn Zum Hohen Speer). Thence to the top a steep ascent of 
^,'4 hr. more. Beautiful view, especially of E. and N.E. Switzerland. From 
A'bnat or JVesslau (p. 58) the Speer is easily ascended in 3'/2-4 hrs. 

The *Walen8ee, or Lake of Walenstadt (1394'), 91/4 M. long, 
11/4 M. wide, and 495' deep, is hardly inferior to the Lake of 
Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. banli consists of 
almost perpendicular precipices, 2000' to 3000' high, ahove whicli 
rise the barren peaks of the seven Curfirsten (Leistkamm 0890', 
Selun 7240', Frumsel 7434', Brisi 7477', Zustoll 7336', Scheiben- 
stoll 7556', and Hinterruck 7523'). The hamlet of Quinten alone has 
found a site on the N. bank. On the S. bank also the rocks, pierced 
by nine tunnels, are very precipitous at places. At the mouths of the 
small torrents which descend from the Miirtschenstock (8012'), lie 
several villages. The names of the hamlets, Primsch, 6unz, Terzen, 
Quarten, Quinten, and that of the lake itself, indicate that the in- 
habitants are of Rhstian or Latin, and not Germanic origin. 

Beyond Weesen we cross the Linth Canal by an iron bridge (the 
Glarus line, diverging to the right, see R. 19), traverse the broad 
valley, cross the Escher Canal (p. 60) near its influx into the 
Walensee, and pass through two tunnels with apertures in the side 
next the lake. Beyond them we observe the Bayerbach waterfall 
on the opposite bank, and the village of Amden (see above) on the 
hill above ; then the falls of the Serenbach, which are copious after 
rain, but sometimes disappear in summer. Three more tunnels, 
between which we obtain pleasant glimpes of the lake and the 
waterfalls and precipices opposite. 50 M. T/LvLhlehom (Tellsplatte ; 
*Seegarten, on the lake; Muhle, all unpretending). To the right 
rises the bald Miirtschenstock (p. 45). 

From Mijulehobn to Mollis (8V2 M.), an interesting walk. The road 
leads over the Kerenzen-Berg , by the favourite summer-resorts (2'/2 M.) 
Obstalden (2237'; 'Hirsch, with shady garden, pens. 51/2 fr. ; 'Stern) and 
(l'/4 M.) Filzbwh (2336'; Rtissli), a village near the highest part of the 
route, whence the Miirtsclienstock (p. 45) may be ascended via the Meerenulp 



to Coire. MURG. U. Route. 45 

in 6 hrs., with guide. (By the Plaltenalp to Glarus, see p. 61.) From a 
rock on the right, ahout Vi M. farther on. we enjoy an admirahle *View 
of the Walensee, the Seezthal Mts., the valley of the Linth Canal, bounded 
on the left by the Hirzli (5387'), and the valleys of Glarus with the Wiggi.s 
and Glarnisch. Much of our route now passes through wood. Xear (3 M.) 
Beglingen we get a glimpse of the snow-fields of the Todi, and then descend 
in windings (avoided by short-cuts) to (1 M.) Mollis (p. 60). — A fine new 
road (recommended to pedestrians) leads from Miihlehorn via {^\a M.) Tiefen- 
icinkel (brewery) and (II/2 M.) Murg to (2 M.) Unterlerzen and (3V2 M.) 
Walenstadt. 

Two more tunnels (to the left, Quinten , see p. 44). 

51 M. Murg (*Schiffli, *Rossli, pens, at both 4 fr. ; Kreuz , all 
rustic), charmingly situated at the mouth of the Murgthal. 

A visit to the Murgthal, a valley 10 M. long, is recommended (guide 
unnecessary). The path ascends rapidly, past the Rossli, as far as (20 min.) 
a 'Waterfall below a bridge, which we do not cross (or we may cross 
the bridge and return to Murg by the pleasant path on the other side). In 
20 min. more we reach another bridge, and cross it. After a steep ascent 
of 3/4 hr. on the left bank the path returns to the Murg and crosses it by 
a third bridge at the ('/2 hr.) beginning of the Merlenalp (3640'). It then 
ascends a pleasant valley, through meadows and wood, to the (21/2 hrs.) 
three Murgseen (5488', 5955', and 5980'). From the highest lake the -Roth- 
thor (8248') may be ascended in 2 hrs. (guide desirable •, the fisherman 
or a herdsman); striking view (W. the Glarnisch. S.W. the Todi, S.E. the 
Calanda, E. the Scesaplana, aS'^. the Sentis and Curflrsten, K.W. the hill- 
country of Zurich). — From the highest lake a fatiguing path crosses the 
"Widerstein-Furkel (6607') to the deep Muhlehachthal and (2^2 hrs.) Engi 
in the Sernfthal (p. 67); another (guide required) leads over the Murgsee- 
Furkel (6568') to the Miirtschenalp (6060'), past the Murtschenstock and 
Fronalpslock, to the Heuhoden-Alp (p. 61), and (5 hrs.) Giants. — Ascent 
of the Miirtschenstock (8012') laborious, fit for experts only, with a guide; 
magnificent view. 

Beyond Murg another tunnel ; above, to the right, the village of 
Quarten (1762') with a new church. 53'/2M- Vnterterzen(Freieck; 
Zur Blumenau). On the steep rocks of the opposite bank several 
waterfalls are visible ; to the right , the village of Mols. Then a 
tunnel and a bridge across the Seez Canal. 

56 M. Walenstadt (1394'; Hotel Churfirsten , at the station, 
R. & A. 21/.2 fr. ; *Hirsch, in the village, moderate) lies '/oM. from 
the E. end of the lake. 

ExcuKSioN (with guide) from Walenstadt by a steep path through 
wood to the (2 hrs.) Alp Losis; then, nearly level, to the Alp Biils and (3/4 hr.) 
the Tschingeln-Alp (5040' ; milk) ; follow the slopes of the Curflrsten to the 
(l>/4 hr.) Alp Schicaldis (4774') and return by Alp Schriiien (4206') to (I'/i hr.) 
Walenstadt ; or proceed from Alp Schwaldis to the Sdls-Alp (4662'), descend 
by the Stafeli to the (1 hr.) Lauhegg Alp (^504') and thence by a steep 
path, but free from danger, to (IV2 hr.) Qiiinfen (p. 45), whence the lake is 
crossed by boat to Murg. — To Amden via the Leistkamm. 10 hra. with 
guide, very attractive (comp. p. 44). — To Wildhaus in the Toggenburg 
(p. 59) a rough path, with splendid views, crosses the Kcisernick (7435'; 
6 hrs. ; guide necessary). 

We now ascend the broad valley of the Seez. On a rock to the 
right, the ruins of Graplang (Romanic Crap Long), or Langenstein ; 
to the left, on a rocky height above Bdrschis, the pilgrimage-church 
oi St. Georgen. 58 M. Flums [iilb' ; Hotel Bahnhof; Lowe). Near 
(64 M.) Mels (1687'; Melserhof, at the station; Frohsinn) the Seez 
descends from the Weisstaimen-Thal, a valley to the S.W. 



46 Route 15. WINTERTIIUR. 

The 'Alvier (7753'), an admirable point of view, may be ascended 
hence in 5 hrs. (guide unnecessary for adepts). The path ascends steeply from 
the station to the right to the (2'/2 hrs.) Alp Pal/ries (4850'; Kurhaus, plain), 
traverses steep and rocky slopes, and (2 hrs.) reaches the summit through 
a narrow cleft by steps cut in the rock (Club-hut, room for 30 pers.). 
The magnificent view embraces the Rhine Valley, the Rhsetikon, and the 
Vorarlberg, Appenzell, and Glarus Mts. (good panorama by Simon). Good 
paths ascend from Flums, Sevelen, Buchs, and Triibbach (comp. p. 340). 

From Mels to Vattis, through the Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser Thai 
(10-11 hrs.). Road to (8 JI.) Weisstannen (3270'; Alpenhof; Gamsli). Thence 
(with guide), by Unter-Lavtina (4289') and the Alp Val Tiisch (6043'), in 
4 hrs. to the Heidel Pass (7306'), between the Seezberg and the Ueidelspilz 
(8619'), where we have a fine view of the huge Sardona Glacier, the 
•Trinserhorn, and Ringelspitz. Descent into the Kalfeuser Thai, to the 
Tamina bridge near Si. Martin (4433') 2 hrs., and to Vdtlis (p. 344) 2 hrs. 
more. — From Weisstannen to Elm by the Foo or Ramin Pass, see p. 68. 

At (65 M.) Sargans (1590'; *H6tel Thoma, at the station-, 
Rail. Restaurant ; Krone, Lowe, in the town) we reach the Rhine 
Valley and the Rorschach and Coire line. The little town, 3/4 M. 
to the N.W., rebuilt since a lire in 1811, lies picturesquely at the 
foot of the Gonzen (p. 340), and is commanded by an old castle. 

Railway from Sargans via Ragatz to (79 M.) Coire, see R. 88. 

15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen. 

Comp. Maps, i>p. 38, 24, 28. 

Railway to Romanshorn (51 M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 35 c). 
Steamboat thence to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. (1 m. 20 or 80 pf.) ; to Lin- 
dau in l'/2 hr. (2 m. 25 or 1 m. 50 pf. ; see p. 27). 

The train crosses the Sihl, ascends in a wide curve, crosses 
the Limmat, and passes under the Kdferherg by a tunnel 1020 yds. 
long. 3 M. Oerlikon (1443' ; Rail. Restaurant). 

F'rom Oerlikon to Dielsdorf, 12 M., railway in 35 minutes. Stations 
Glattbrugg, Rilmlang, and (S'/z M.) Oberglatt, the junction for Niederglall 
and (41/oM.) Biilach (see p. 47). Then (IOV2M.) NiedevhasU and (12 M.) Diels- 
dorf (1410'; Sonne; Post), the terminus of the line, 11/2 M. below the pret- 
tily situated old town of Regensberg (2024'; "Krone), on the E. spur of the 
Ldgerngebirge (p. 19). Fine view from the tower of the old castle (now 
an institution for boys of weak intellect); still more extensive from the 
Hochwachl (2828'), 1 hr. farther on. 

The line crosses the Glatt. At (6 M.) Wallisellen (Linde) the 
Rapperswyl line diverges to the right (see p. 42). Fine view of 
the Glarus Alps. 71/9 M. Dietlikon; IO1/2 M. Effretikon (branch- 
line to Wetzikon and Hinweil, p. 42); 13 M. Kemptthal. Near 
Winterthur the 2'dss is crossed. On a hill to the left, the ruins of 
Hoch- Widflinyen (1962'). 

16 M. Winterthur (1447'; pop. 15,788; *Goldn€r Lowe, R.&A. 
2'/2) D- 3V2 fr.; *Krone; *Adler; *Rail. Restaurant), on the Eulach, 
is an industrial and wealthy town and an important railway-junction. 
The new *Stadthaus was designed by Semper. The large School (with 
statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi, and Sulzer) contains the 
town-library and a few small Roman antiquities found near Ober- 
Winterthur (Vitodurum, p. 31). In the Kunsthalle are some good 
Swiss paintings. The environs yield excellent wine. 



FRAUENFELD. 15. Route. 47 

Fkom Wintekthur to Waldshut, 32 M., railway in 2 hrs. The 
line traverses the Tossthal. Stat. Toss, Wiilflingen, Pfungen-Neftenhach, 
Emhrach- Rovhas. The train leaves the Toss and passes through a 
tunnel (1980 yds.). lO'/-.' M- Biilach (1374'; Kopf; Kreuz}, a small town 
near the Glatt, once fortified (branch-line to Oberglatt and Otelfingen, 
p. 19). The line runs through the Hardwald to the N. to Glattfelden and 
(13i;'2 BI.) Eglisau; the latter (Liiwe; Hirsch) with its castle lies on the 
right bank of the Rhine. We now follow the left bank of the Rhine and 
cross the Glatt. Stat. Zweidlen; 19 M. Weiach-Kaiserstuhl , an old town 
with a massive tower; on the right bank Schloss Riiteln, and farther on, 
the ruins of Weiss- Wasserstelz. Stat. Riimikon, Reckingen, Zurzach, and 
(30 M.) Koblenz, where the Rhine is crossed to (32 M.) Walds/nit (p. 28). 

From Winterthur to Ruti, 29V2M., in 2-3 hrs., by the Tossthalbahn. 
Stations Griize and Seen. Near (5 M.) Sennliof (lb min. to the S.W. of which 
is the old chateau of Kyburg, commanding a fine view) we enter the pretty 
Tossthal. Stations Kollbrunn, Rikon, Zell, (10 M.) Turbenthal (Bar), Wyla 
(with a picturesquely situated church), Saland, (16 M.) Bauma (Tanne), 
all thriving industrial places. About 2V4 M. to the E. of Zell, on the slope 
of the Schaiienbtrg. is the frequented Gi/renbad, with an alkaline spring (see 
p. 48). Then Steg, Fischenlhal, Gibsioyl-Ried. From the last, situated on 
the watershed , the Bachtel may be ascended in 1 hr. Then through the 
picturesque valley of the Jona to (25 M.) Wald (Lowe; Riissli), at the S.E. 
foot of the Bachtel (p. 42). Passing the waterfall of Eohe Lauf, we join 
the Ziirich and Rapperswyl line (p. 42) at (29V2 M.) Riiti, 

From Winterthur to Scliaffhausen , see R. 12; to St. Gallen and Ror- 
schach, see R. 16; to Constance, see R. 11. 

The Romanshorn line traverses tlie green and fertile Thurgau. 
20 M. Wiesendangen ; 24 M. Islikon. 

26 M. Frauenfeld (1340'; pop. 5800; *Falke; *H6td Bahn- 
hof) , on the Murg , with large cotton-factories, is the capital of 
the Thurgau. The handsome Schloss on an ivy-clad rock is said to 
have been built by a Count of Kyburg in the 11th century. 

From Frauenfeld to Wtl, 11 M., steam-tramway in l-l'/i hr. (fares 
1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 30 c ). Stations : Mtirkarl, Mazingen, Jakobsthal, Wdngi, Miinch- 
tveilen, and Wyl (p. 4^^). 

29 M. Felben. Near (321/2 M. ) MuUheim the train crosses the 
Thur. SbM. Mar stetten; 37^/2 M.Weinfelden[iiQ3''). To the left 
Schloss Weinfelden (1850'; view), on the vine -clad Ottenberg. 
391/2 M. Burglen; 41 M. -Suiyen (1584'; Helvetia; Schweizerhof). 

From Sulgen to Gossau, M'/j M., railway in 67 min. (1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 
15 c.). The line traverses the pretty valley of the Thur. Stations Kra- 
dolf, Sitterthal. 6 M. Bischofzell (1653'; Linde; Schtcert}, a small town at 
the confluence of the Thur and Sitter; then Haupticeil, Arnegg, Gossau 
(see p. 48). 

Stations Erlen , Amriswyl, and (51 M.) Romanshorn (1322'; 
*H6tel Bodan; Falke; Jdger ; *Rail. Restaurant), on a promontory 
on the Lake of Constance. Station on the quay (p. 30). The lake 
and Friedrichshafen, see p. 27. 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and 
Lindau. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 52, 28. 

Railwat to St. Gallen (52I/2M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 80, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 40 c); 
to Rorschach (62 M.) in 33/4 hrs (10 fr. 20, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 10 c). Steamboat 
from Rorschach to Lindau in V/t hr. (1 m. 65 or Im. lOpf.). 

From Ziirich to (16 M.) Winterthur, see p. 46. The St. Gallen 



48 Route 16. FLAWYL. From Zurich 

railway is unattractive. The Curflrsten gradually appear to the S., 
and the Appenzell Mts. to the S.E. 

2OV2 M. Rdterschen; 24 M. ELgg (2012'; Ochs; Lciwe). To 
the S. (4 M.) is the Schauenberg (2930'; fine viewl, on the S.W. 
slope of which lies the Gyrenbad (-p. 47). Stations ^arfor/"( Linde), 
Eschlikon, Sirnach. — 341/2 M. Wyl (1936'; Hotel Bahnhof), a small 
and pleasant old town (3474 inhali.); line view from the station of 
the Appenzell and Glarus Alps. Branch-line to Ebnat, see p. 58; 
steam-tramway to Frauenfeld, p. 47. 

The train crosses the Thur by an iron bridge, near the old 
castle of Sehwarzenbach. 391/2 M. Utzwyl, the station for Nieder- 
Utzwyl on the left, and Ober - Vtzwyl on the right. (Near the 
former, I3/4 M. from the station. Is the hydropathic Kurhaus of 
BuchenthaL) 43 M. Flawyl (2020'; *Edssli; Post), a large manu- 
facturing village. The Glatt is crossed. 46 M. Gossau (Hot. Bahn- 
hof ; branch-line to /Sutjren, see p. 47). — 481/2 M. Winkeln (Krenz). 

From Winkeln to Appenzell, 16 M., in IV2 hr., by the narrow-gauge 
Appenzell Railway. The line passes the Heinrichsbad (*Kurhaus, with chaly- 
beate spring, wh«y-cure, etc.). 3 M. Herisau (2550'; 11,090 inhab. ; "Lowe, 
R. 2V2, D. 3, pens, 7-8 fr. ; StorcK), a thriving town with extensive muslin- 
factories and a clock-tower attributed to the 7th century. 51/2 3I. Waldstalt 
(2700'; Hirsch; Pens. Sentisblick), with a chalybeate spring and whey-cure. 
"Then through the Urnasch Valley, by Ziifchersmiihle, to (9V4 M) Urnasch 
(2746'; "Krone; Schafle). About 1/2 M. above Urnasch is the primitive spa 
of liosenhiigel (2892'). Beyond Urnasch the train passes the (U'/s M.) 
Jacobsbad (to the E.), with its mineral spring (good quarters) and goes on 
via (13 M.)' Gonlen (2970'; Bar) and (14 M.) Gonlenbad (2925'), a well-managed 
whey-cure establishment, with a chalybeate spring, to (16 M.) Appenzell 
(p. 54). — Ascent of the Senlis from Urnasch, see p. 57. Over the Krdzern 
Pass to Neu St. Johann, see p. 58. 

"We now cross the deep valley of the Sitter by an imposing iron 
*Bridge, 207 yds. long, and 174' above the river. A little lower 
down is the Krdzernbrilcke , with its two stone arches, built in 
1810. — 50 M. Bruggen. 

t/l'^l^. M. St. Gallen. — Hotels. *Hecht, U., L., & A. 4-6, D., incl. 
wine, 3'/2fr.; *H6t. Stiegek, R., L., & A. 3 fr. ; *Hirsch, R. & A. 21/2, p. 
3 fr. ; "Walhall.^, opposite the station ; "Schiff, Ochs. moderate. — Cafes. 
Caf4-Reftanraut Borse, Pavilion, Triscfili, all three with gardens; Ca/^. 
National; Walhalla, see above. — Baths of all kinds at the Lochlibad 
and at the ^ Paradies\ — Havannah Cigars at Beckys, Bahnhof-Str. 10. — 
Embroidery at A. Naefs. — United States Consul, Wm. H. Robertson, Esq. 

St. Gallen or St. Gall (2165'), one of the highest-lying of the 
larger towns of Europe, the capital of the canton of that name, and 
since 1846 an episcopal see, is one of the chief Industrial towns 
in Switzerland, embroidered cotton goods being its staple product. 
Pop. 27,420. 

The Benedictine Aiusey, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Gal- 
lus, an Irish monk, and suppressed in 1805, was one of the most 
famous seats of learning in Europe from the 8th to the 10th cen- 
tury. The extensive buildings now accommodate the Cantonal 
offices , the Koman Catholic technical school , the bishop's resi- 
dence, and the Library. The last (open on Mon., Wed., and Sat., 9-12 



to Lindau. ST. GALLEN. 16. Route. 49 

and 2-4') contains many valuable MSS. (a psalter of Notker Labco 
of the 10th cent, and a Nibelungenlied of the 13th cent."); of those 
mentioned In a catalogue of the year 823 about 400 still exist. 

The Abbey Church, rebuilt in 1755 in the rococo style, contains 
finely carved choir-stalls and a beautiful iron choir-screen. The 
Gothic Church of St. Lawrence (Fiot.^, to the N. of the abbey-church, 
has been restored (1850-54) and embellished with a handsome tower, 
and stained glass by Gsell of Paris. 

The large School House in the Vordere Briihl contains the Town 
Library (^ Vadianische Bibliothek' ; open Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 
2-4), which boasts of valuable MSS., chiefly of the Reformation 
period. Near it, in the Museums-Str., by the Grosse Briihl, is the 
Museum, containing the municipal collections. On the ground-floor 
are extensive Natural History Collections (open Sun., 10-12 and 
1-3, Wed. and Frid., 1-3), and on the first floor the Picture Gallery 
of the Kunstverein (works by KoUer, Diday, Makart, A. Feuerbach, 
Ritz, Schirmer, and others), and the collections of the Historical 
Society (open Sun., 10-12 and 1-3, Wed., 1-4 ; at other times, for 
1-4 pers., 50c.). The E. wing is devoted to the Industrial and 
Trade jl/Msewm (open Sun., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10-2 and 2-4). 
Behind the museum is the Public Park; farther on, in the Rorsch- 
acher-Strasse , are the Town Hospital, to the right, and the Can- 
tonal Hospital, to the left. To the W. , in the Arboner-Strasse, on 
the left bank of the Steinach, is the large Cantonal Prison. The 
Industrial Museum, with a school of design, is in the Vadian-Strasse. 

Excursions. Tlie *Freudenberg C~^'Oi': Inn; carriage with one horse 
5 fr.), I'/o JI. to the S.E., commands a charming view of the Lake of 
Constance as far as Lindau; in the foreground lie St. Gallen and the 
surrounding country, dotted with houses, to the S. the Sentis chain, the 
Glarnisch, Todi, etc. — The ' Vogelisegg (4i/2 M. ; p. 54) and the 'Frolichs- 
egg (4 M. ; p. 57) also afford fine views. — From the Kurzegg inn on 
the road to Vogelisegg a fine view of the Bodensee. Near it, the nunnery of 
Nolkersegg (2567'). — To the Rosenberg (2445') with the Kurzenbiirg, a 
deaf-and-dumb institution (view to the S.W.) ; walk along the hill to the 
('/4 hr.) inn of SS. Peter and Paul (2628'; view). — Across the pastures to 
the Beraegg (2757'; Inn), with view of the Sentis, and back by the Teufen 
road (2 M.). — Eronbiihl (203.3'; Inn), on the Arbon road, with a view of 
the Lake of Constance. — Waid, a health-resort, 3 M. to the N.E., with 
splendid view of the lake of Constance (diligence from St. Fiden, see below). 
— Bruggen and the "Sitterbrucke (p. 48), by rail in 8 min. — Martinstobel 
and Mottelischloss , see p. 50. — To Trogen , Gais, Appenzell , Weissbad 
(R. 17), one-horse carr. there and back 13 fr., a pleasant day's excursion. 

From St. Gallen the line descends through a long cutting to 
(531/2 M.) St. Fiden (Sonne), and enters the wild valley of the 
Steinach. Embankments and cuttings are traversed in rapid suc- 
cession. Nearly the whole Lake of Constance is frequently visible, 
with Friedrichshafen on its N. bank. — Turning to the right, the 
line crosses the Goldach by a bridge of five arches near (5672 M.) 
Morschwyl (*Pens. Gallusberg, near the station), and traverses a 
fertile district to Rorschach. There are two stations at Rorschach. 
the first 1/2 M. from the town, and the terminus at the harbour. 

Baedekkb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 4 



50 Route 16. RORSCHACH. From Zurich 

6*2 M. Borschach. — -Ankeb, R., L., & A. 2'/2, B. 1 fr., pens. 7-8 fr. ; 
'HiKSCH, moderate ; Bauuof; -Hotel Bodan ;SEEHor; Schiff; Hotel Bahn- 
HOK, Post, R. 2, D. 2'/2 fr., these two near the station-, *Schafi,e, with 
garden, moderate; Zuk Toggenbcrg; Rossle ; Zur Ilge; Gkdnee Badm ; 
OcHS, with brewery. — 'Rail. Restaurant, with a balcony and view of 
the lake. Beer at Stierlins, behind the station, and at the Falke (with 
rooms to let). — Private apartments reasonable. — Baths at Poller's, on 
the lake; 'Lake Bat/is "AM- *<> the W. (bath with towel 35c.). 

Rorschach (1312'; pop. 5848), a busy town on the Lake of Con- 
stance, chiefly important for its com trade, is also a summer-resort. 

Railway to Coire, see p. 339 ; to Bregenz and Lindau, see p. 420 ; to 
Seide/i, see p. 52; to Constance, see p. 30. 

Excursions. Above Rorschach rises the old abbey of Marienherg, with 
handsome cloisters, now a school. The view from the Rorschacher Berg, 
the green orchard-like hill behind the town , embraces the whole lake, 
with the Vorarlberg Mts. and the Rhfetikon chain. Its summit, the Robs- 
biihel (Inn), may be reached in l'/4 hr. from Rorschach (boy to show the way 
desirable). The whole hillside is intersected by roads, which atford a great 
many pleasant walks. — The St. Anna Schloss, since 1449 the property ot 
the Abbots of St. Gallen, has been partly restored ('Restaurant); fine view 
from the upper rooms. The road, which is steep towards the end, takes 
about 3/, hr. from the station. The view from the Jcigerhaus, '/s lir. 
farther up, is still more extensive (Inn, good wine). 

To the Martinstobel and Jlottelischloss and back, 3 hours. By the St. 
Gallen railway to St. Fiden, see p. 49. Below the station we take the road 
to Neudorf (brewery on the left), descend the high-road, and diverge to the 
right by the Heiden road into the '^Martinstobel, the gorge of the GoldacU, 
spanned by an iron bridge 1(X)' high. Here at the beginning of the 10th cent, 
the monk Xotker composed his '■Media vita in morte sumus\ upon seeing 
a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge we ascend the road to the 
left, passing the debris of a landslip which took place in 1845, to Untereggen 
(Schalle) , and thence descend the Goldach road as far as a road leading 
through a grassy dale to the right to the Mottelischloss. This was for- 
merly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg , of whom it was purchased by 
the wealthy Mbtteli family of St. Gallen, and after various vicissitudes it has 
now fallen into disrepair. 'View from the new platform on the top (gratuity), 
one of the finest near the lake. Pleasant walk back to Rorschach through 
the WitlwU 0/2 hr.). — ToTiibach, surrounded by fruit-trees, and the 
Castle of Hteinach about 1 hr. — By the 'Obere Weg', with fine views, 
to (1 hr.) Wylen ('/nra) , near the Duke of Parma's chateau of Warlegg, 
with its beautiful park. — By Stood (p. 339) to (IV4 hr.) Schloss Weinburg, 
the summer-residence of the Prince of Hohenzollern (visitors admitted to 
the fine park); splendid view from the Steinerne Tisch, above the chateau 
(return via Thai and Rheinegg, p. 339). — To Heiden, see p. 52. 

To THE Meldegg. Railway to (V4 hr.) Rheinegg; then a good road 
(diligence twice daily in 1 hr. 5 min. ; shorter footpath in 3/4 hr.) to (2'/2 M.) 
Walzenhausen (2207'; "Kurhaus; "BSt.-Pens. Rheinburg, S^J^tr.), a summer 
resort in a sheltered situation, with pleasant wood-walks and fine points 
of view. Road thence to (IV2 31.) the monastery of Grimmenstein ; then a 
path to the left to the (1/4 hr.) -Meldegg t2125'), a rocky height at the angle 
of the Rhine Valley, affording an admirable survey of the valley and the 
Bodensee. (Tavern in summer.) We may then descend to (2/4 hr.) St. Mar- 
grethen (p. 339) or (V2 hr.) Au (p. 339) and return by train to Rorschach. 

At Horn (on the lake, IV2 M. to the N.W.; railway, see p. 30) there are 
a large Hotel <t Bath-house (pension 6 fr.), and the Steinbock Inn. Visitors 
are also received at the Schloss, near the baths, to the left of the road. 

To Linclau by steamer (IV4 hr), comp. p. 27. To the S.E. is 
Bregenz, at the foot of the Pfander; in the background the Rhaeti- 
kon chain; on the W. side of the Rhine Valley rise the Appenzell 
Mts. and the Sentis. 



to Lindau. LINDAU. 16. Route. 51 

Lindau. — *Bavkischer Hop, R., L., & A. 2'/2-i, D. 3 m. ; *Kkone, 
E. 11/2-2 m., B. 80pf-, D. 2m. 20pf. ; "Hotel Reutemann, *Lindauer Hof, 
Helvetia, moderate, all on the lake; Sonne, in the Reichsplatz ; Gaetchen 
AUF DER Mauee, a pension OH the mainland. — Schiitzengarten, a restaurant 
on the old bastion, near the Roman tower, with view; adjacent to it, 
Rupflin (wine); Inselbrauerei ; Rail. Restaurant. — Lake Baths on the N.W. 
side of the town, in the inner arm of the lake. 

Lindau, the terminus of the Bavarian vS.W. Railway (express 
to Augsburg 5, to Munich 51/2 hrs.), once an imperial town and 
fortress, and in the middle ages a thriving commercial place, lies 
on an island in the Lake of Constance, connected with the main- 
land by a railway-embankment and by a wooden bridge, 356 yds. 
long. Lindau is said to have been the site of an ancient Roman 
fort, to which the venerable tower near the bridge perhaps belong- 
ed. On the quay is a monument to King Max II. (d. 1864), in 
bronze, designed by Halbig. At the end of the S. pier, on a 
granite pedestal 33' high, is placed an imposing lion in marble, 20' 
in height, also by Halbig. The top of the Lighthouse on the N. 
pier commands a line view (adm. 40 pf.). In the Reichsplatz are 
the Rathhaus, with a painted fagade, and a handsome fountain with 
a bronze figure of 'Lindauia' and allegorical figures of Horticul- 
ture, Agriculture, Fishing, and Shipping, designed by Thiersch and 
Riimann, was erected in 1884. 

EscuBSioNs. Pleasant walk on the bank of the lake towards the W. 
(cross the railway embankment and turn to the left), passing the villas 
of Lotzbeck (pretty park) , Giebelbach , Lingg ("Frescoes by Naue) , and 
others, to the (s/4 M.) Schachenbad (Pens. Freihof), and the (V4 BI.) Linden- 
hof (or Villa Gruber), with its beautiful grounds and hot-houses (adm. on 
Frid. gratis; at other times 1 m., tickets at the Schachenbad; closed on 
Sun.). About '/a M. farther on is the chateau of Aliaind. — Beautiful view 
from the ('/2 hr.) *Hoyerberg (1496'), which is reached by a path skirting 
the railway, or by the road by Aeschach (Schlatter) to the village of Hoyren, 
at the foot of the vine-clad hill. Two inns and a belvedere on the top. 
We may then return by Enzisweiler (*Schmid's Restaurant) and Schachen 
(Zum Schlossle). — To Bregenz, see p. 420. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell. 

The Canton of Appenzell cannot vie in grandeur with many other parts 
of Switzerland, but it includes within a small space most of the charact- 
eristics of the country. It boasts of Switzerland's largest lake, of an almost 
southern vegetation, of great industrial prosperity, of the richest pastures, 
and even of lofty snow-mountains. The finest points are Heiden, St. Antoni, 
Wildkirchli, Ebenalp, the Hofie Kasten, and the Sentis. The new Appenzell 
railway (p. 48) has greatly facilitated the access to the last. 

This canton, which is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gallen, was 
divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two half-cantons , Ausser- 
Bhoden and Inner-Rhoden, and to this day party-feeling on religious ques- 
tions is very strong. Inner-Rhoden , which consists of pasture-land and 
is 63 sq. M. in area , is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, and down to 
1818 permitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Roman Catho- 
lics who were not natives of the canton were strictly excluded. This restric- 
tion was nominally rescinded by an article of the Federal consitution in 
1848, but little change has practically taken place. Population 12,868, of 
whom abont550 only are Protestants. AussEE-RHODEN(90sq. M.,54,145inhab., 
3594 Rom. Cath.) belongs to the Reformed Church; one-fourth of its popula- 

4* 



52 Route 17. HEIDEN. The Canton 

tion is engaged in the cottun and silk manufacture, chiefly for firms at St. 
Gallen. No government ofticial receives a salary exceeding 200 fr. per annum. 
The popular assembly ('Landsgemeinde'') is held on the last Sunday in April, 
in even years at Trogen, in uneven at Hundwyl ; every male inhabitant of 
Appenzell above the age of 18 is required to be present under a penalty of 
10 fr. ; and about 12,000 persons assemble on the occasion. 

The contrast between these two divisions of the canton in habits, 
manners , and costume is very marked. Ausser-Rhoden is characterised 
by the enterprising and prosperous condition of its inhabitants, many of 
whom are even affluent. Almost every house has its loom , the products 
of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill , and were objects of 
admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. The rearing of 
cattle is here quite a subordinate occupation. The inhabitants of Inner- 
R/ioden, on the other hand, generally occupy scattered cottages and huts ; 
they are , according to Merian (1650), 'a rough, hardy, homely, and pious 
folk' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive, and cattle-breeding and 
cheese-makitig are their chief pursuits. 

Whey-cure Establishments in the Canton of Appenzell : Oais, Weissbad, 
Jleiden, Ootiten, Waldstait, etc. The goats' whey is prepared on the pastures of 
the Sentis ; the milk is heated, and the whey separated from it by the ad- 
dition of rennet. The whey ('Schoiten^) thus prepared is of a yellowish-green 
colour, semi-transparent, entirely free from caseine, but rich in saccharine 
matter. The process takes place at night. Early in the morning the goat- 
herds carry the hot whey on their backs to the different establishments be- 
low. The whey-makers have about 500 goats on the Sentis, and even buy 
goats' milk from other districts, to supply the hotel-keepers. After the sepa- 
ration of the whey, the cheese is manufactured in the ordinary manner. 

Railway from Winkeln to Appenzell in 1V2-2 hrs. ; from Rorschach to 
Beiden in 55 minutes. — Diligence from Rheineck to Heiden twice daily in 
13/4 hr. ; from Heiden to Trogen twice daily in I1/2 hr. ; from AUsidtten to 
Gaii daily in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2 hrs. 40 min. ; from St. Gallen by 
Teufen to Gais 3 times daily in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2^/4 hrs. — Carriage 
from St. Gallen to Trogen 6 fr. (34 pers. 10 fr.), to Appenzell 9-16, Weiss- 
bad IO-I6V2 fr. ; half-fare more for the return. 

The Rail-v\'ay from Rorschach to Heiden, 4*/3 M. long , is 
constructed on the rack - and - pinion system (maximum gradient 
1 : 11). The train starts from the harbour station (p. 49), stops at 
the outer station, where the toothed rail begins, and then ascends 
through orchards and vineyards, affording charming glimpses of the 
lake. On the left, below, is the picturesque chateau of Wartegg., on 
the right Wartensee. "We then cross a ravine, pass through a cutting, 
and traverse wood. Near (21/.2 M.) stat. Wienachten (1930') are 
large quarries of fossiliferous sandstone. We cross the gorge of that 
name by a lofty viaduct, obtaining to the left a beautiful view of 
the rich valley, with the mountains of the Bregenzer Wald beyond, 
and the mouth of the Rhine below ; then ascend through orchards 
and wood, past a deep ravine on the left, to (3 M.) stat. Schwendi, 
and skirt the wooded Galgentobel in a wide bend. 

41/3 M. Heiden. — *Fkeihof, R., l., & A. 3-4, B. I'/a, pens. S'/z fr., 
whey 80 c.; ' Schweizeuiiop, R,. L., & A. 3'/2, B. 11/4, D. 3, S. 2 fr.; Son- 
NENHiJGEL, at the upper end of the village, near the Kurhalle; "Lowe, 
pens. 61/2 fr. ; Krone, pens. 6fr. ; Linde; *Zum Pabadies; Zur Frohen 
AnssicHT, well spoken of. Lodgings at Tohler^s, the postmaster. Baths 
in the Quelknhof. — Visitors' Tax for a stay of several days 1 fr. 20 c. — 
English Church Service in summer. 

Heiden (2465' ; pop. 3430), a thriving village with substantial 
houses, rebuilt since a fire in 1838, lies in the midst of sunny and 



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of Appentell. KAIEN. 77. liotite. 53 

sheltered meadows, and is a favourite whey-cure resort. Mineral 
water may also be procured. At the upper end of the village is a 
tasteful Kurhalle. The gallery at the top of the tower of the new 
church contains a good telescope , and affords a fine panoramic view, 
including the Lake of Constance. 

Walks. To tlie "Bellevue, a bill 20 min. to the S.E. , on the right 
bank of the Gslaldenhach , with a beautiful view of Heiden and the 
Lake of Constance, and in 10 min. more to the Sentishlick ; S.W. to the 
Hasenbiihl . Benzenriili, and *Stei7iU, with a pavilion and charming view ; 
S. to Bischofsberg (see below). To the W. , below the Grub road (see 
below), the Krdhenwald (pleasant grounds) ; N.W. (^4 br.) the Rossbilhel 
above Wienachten (see p. 50; tavern, good wine). 

A road affording picturesque views leads from Heiden to the N.W. 
via Wolfhalden (2322; Friedberg) to (3V2 M.) Rheinegg (p. 339; diligence 
twice daily in ' 4 hr.) ; another attractive road to the W. via Grub, Eggevs- 
ried, and "the Marlinstobel (p. 50) to (8 M.) St. Gallen (p. 48). To Rorschach 
there are besides the railway a pleasant footpath and a carriage-road f4'/2 M.) 
via Zelg and Wienachten. 

The 'Chapel of St. Anthony i'-Sl. Antonibild'' ; 3635'; small restaurant 
adjacent), IV4 hr. to the S. of Heiden, affords a famous view of the 
Rhine Valley (preferable to that from the Kaien) , Bregenz, Lindau, part 
of the Bodensee, and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. One route to the 
chapel is by Oberegg; another, shorter, leads by the orphan-houses and 
the Bischofsberg (see above). From the chapel to Altstdtfeit (p. 339) IV2 hi-. 

The Kaien, I'/i hr. to the S.W. of Heiden, is also frequently ascended 
(guide desirable, I'/a fr.). We at first follow the Trogen road ; after I'/i M. 
we ascend to the right towards some houses, where a boy may be engaged 
as a guide; 10 min., the path enters pine-wood (rather steep here), then 
crosses an open meadow with a few chalets, and ascends the small peak of 
the (Va hr.) ^Kaien (3668'). The view embraces a great part of the Lake of 
Constance and Canton Thurgau , the embouchures of the Rhine and the 
Bregenzer Ach, the Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein Mts., with the white chain 
of the Rhsetikon and the Scesaplana above them to the S.E. To the S. it 
affords a characteristic glimpse of the Appenzell district : the Kamor and 
Hohe Hasten, the five peaks of the Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the double- 
peaked Altmann , the snow-fields of the Sentis , and the Todi farther 
distant; in the foreground woods, meadows, and the thriving villages of 
Wald, Trogen, and Speicher; to the left above Trogen rises the Giibris 
(p. 54) ; to the right, near Speicher, the Vogelisegg (p. 54) ; to the left, above 
Speicher, in the distance, the Pilatus and the Rigi. — The Kaien is IV2 hr. 
from Speicher, and 2V2 hrs. from St. Gall. Trogen seems almost within a 
stone's-throw, though really 3 M. distant. The path descends to the right by 
the Gup/ (Inn) and the Rehtobel ('Hirsch), beyond which the road to Trogen 
is visible in the wooded ravine far below. Near the bridge, in the valley 
below, is a rustic tavern 'Am Goldach\ 

The G&bris (see below) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding 
the Kaien) : to St. Anthony^s Chapel (see above) IV4 hr. ; then along the crest 
of the hill , with a charming survey of the Rhine Valley and the Sentis, 
to the Landmark (Inn, comp. p. 340), and thence to the summit of the 
Gdbris, a beautiful walk of 2 hrs. 

The road from Heiden to Trogen (6'/.2 M.) ascends the E. 
slope of the Kaien (see ahove) to (2iy'4 M.) Langenegg (3182'; Inn) 
and then leads up and down hill, past Rehtobel (see above), situated 
beyond the deep valley of the Goldach on the right, and (21/4 M.) 
Wald (3150'; Sonne), to (2 M.) — 

Trogen (2975'; pop. 2587; Hirsch ,■ *Krone'), the seat of 
government of Canton Appenzell-Ausser-Rhoden, a prosperous vil- 
lage, pleasantly situated and visited as a summer-resort. 



54 Route 17. GAIS. The Canton 

Road over the Landmark to (7 M.) AUstdUen, see p. 340. — From St. 
Gallen to Trogen (6 JI.), diligence thrice daily in 1 hr. 40 min. The 
road leads past the nunnery ni Notkersegg and the inn of Kurzegg (p. 49), to 
the (4 M.) '-"Vogelisegg (1358'; " Hotel- Pension) , which affords a line view 
of the Lake of Constance, the populous and rich pasture-lands of Speicher 
and Trofien, and of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. A point a few 
paces in front of the hotel commands a specially line prospect of the 
Sentis. Descent to (Vi M.) iSpeiclier (3070'; Lowe; Krone) and across the 
Bachtobel to (I'/i M.) Trogen. 

From the church at Trogen a road leads by the pretty village 
of Bilhler (2736'; *Rossli) to (5 M.) Gais , but the path over the 
*Gabris (4100') is shorter and far more attractive. 

The traveller coming from the Kaien follows the Trogen and Biihler 
road to the (',2 hr.) top of the bill (3487' ; view of the Sentis) ; a finger- 
post here indicates the path to the left to Gais over the Giibris. Those 
who come from Vcigelisegg should not go on to Trogen, but quit the high- 
road beyond the Bachtobel (see above) by a flight of steps to the right. A 
small valley lies immediately on the right, and the path ascends gradually 
across meadows. After 34 hr. (from Speicher) this path reaches the road 
from Trogen to Biihler at a few hundred paces from the finger-post. About 
5 min. beyond the latter we reach two houses. Where the ascent begins, 
5 min. farther on, we keep to the left. Farther on, the road skirts a wood 
(at the beginning of which the descent to the left is to be avoided). At the 
point (12 min.) where a row of old pine-trees flanks the road on the right, 
a footpath between two of these ascends, chiefly through wood, in 20 min. 
to the summit. The point first attained is the Signalhiihe (4110'), the view 
from which is much obstructed by wood. A few min. farther on is an ~Inn 
(4100'), whence a charming prospect is enjoyed (reached from Speicher in 
IV2 hr.). To Gais, which lies at our feet, a somewhat steep descent of 
Vj hour. Walkers in the reverse direction will find finger-posts at doubtful 
points. Xumerous benches. 

Gais (3075'; pop. 2505; *Krone, R. & A. 21/2-3V2, B. IV4, 
D. 3 fr., whey 80 c. per day; Ochs, Adler, Hirsch, Rothbach, etc., 
plain), a trim-looking village , in the midst of green meadows, is 
the oldest of the Appenzell whey-resorts, having been in vogue 
since 1749. Fine view of the Sentis from the Kurgarten. 

Diligence to St. Gallen, see p. 57. — The Road from Gais to Alt- 
STATTEN (6 M., diligence once daily in V/t hr., from Altstatten to Gais 
in 13/4 hr.) is level for the first I'/a M., and then descends uninterruptedly 
from the point where it diverges from the old road and winds round the 
mountain. The old road, shorter for pedestrians, and far preferable on 
account of the viev?, leads to the left over the (1/4 hr.) ' Stoss (3130' ; Pen- 
sion S(oss), a chapel on the pass, with a celebrated view of the Rhine 
Valley, the Vorarlberg, and the Grisons. Here, on 17th June, 1405, 400 
Appenzellers under Rudolf von Werdenberg signally defeated 30()0 troops of 
the Archduke Frederick and the Abbot of St. Gallen. The old road rejoins 
the new immediately below the Stoss, but soon diverges again. The road 
to the left, descending in zigzags, is the better; that to the right is steeper, 
but shorter. — Those who intend proceeding from the Stoss to the Sentis 
naay leave Gais and Appenzell to the right, and descend direct to the (2 
hrs.) Weissbad, by the Bo/ie JJirschberg (3833'; fine panorama). 

A road traversing meadows leads from Gais to (3 M.) Appenzell 
(2550'; pop. 4466 ; *Lowe, *Hecht, both moderate ; beer at the Krone), 
another whey -resort, the capital of Canton Inner -Rhoden, on the 
Sitter, a large village consisting chiefly of old wooden houses. It 
contains two monasteries, and was formerly a country-seat of the Ab- 
bots of St. Gallen, Appenzell being a corruption of 'Abbatis felki'. 



of Appemell. WEISSBAD. 77. Route. 55 

The Hospital, the Church, erected in 1826, and the Landesarchiv 
or record office, containing interesting charters, are worthy of note. 
Shady promenades on the Sitter. — Railway to Urndsch and Win- 
keln, see p. 48. Diligence to St. Gallen via Gais, see p. 57. 

A road leads from Appenzell to the S.E., passing the Hotel Stein- 
egg, to the (2M.) *Weissbad (2680'), another whey-cure and health 
resort (R. & A. 2-4, B. 1, D. 21/2, S- IV2 fr., cheaper for a longer 
stay ; also river-baths), pleasantly situated at the base of the Appen- 
zell Mts., and a good starting-point for excursions. 

Guides' Fees (J. A. Thong, Sitber, Jac. and Joh. Kosler): Wild- 
kirchli 5, Ebenalp 5, Sentis 10, over the Sentis to Wildhaus 20, Altmann 
12, Holie Kasten 6, over the latter into the Rhine Valley 10 fr. — Horse 
to Wildkirchli 10, Ebenalp 12, Hohe Kasten 10, Kamor 9 fr. — Carriage 
to St. Gallen and Altstatten with one horse 12, with two horses 25 fr.; to 
Gais 8 or 14 fr. ; to Appenzell 3 or 6 fr. 

From Weissbad to the Rhine Vallet. The direct route by the 
HoHE Kasten (S'/z hrs.) leads to the S.E. through (1/2 hr.) Briilisau (3030'; 
Krone, rustic) ; by the church we follow the paved path , past the first 
house , as far as a bam , and ascend the meadows (towards the inn 
which lies conspicuously at the foot of the Kamor) as far as the last 
group of houses, V2 hr. ; then straight on (not by the beaten path), through 
the enclosure on the right, to the Inn '■Ruhsitz^ (4495'; '/•! hr., bridle-path 
thus far), at the S.W. base of the Kamor (5215'). From the inn a steep 
ascent of 1 hr. by a good path, to the summit of the 'Hohe Kasten (59(XJ'; 
*/nn), which slopes precipitously on theE. towards the Rhine Valley. Splendid 
view of the Sentis group, with its three spurs on the N.E., which is nowhere 
seen to such advantage; in the other direction we see the Rhine Valley, 
stretching as far as the Lake of Constance, and the Alps of the Vorarlherg 
and Grisons. We may now descend by a steep and stony path to (3 hrs.) 
Stat. Sennwald-SaleU (p. 340). It diverges from the Weissbad path to the 
left, just below the saddle between the Kamor and Hohe Kasten, skirts 
the W. and S. slopes of the latter, and descends in zigzags (no possibility 
of mistake ; several finger- posts lower down). Traversing wood for the 
last hour, we at length reach the village of Sennwald and the station. 

The favourite walk from the Weissbad is to the Wildkirchli, 
13/4 hr. to the S. (guide 4 fr., unnecessary). Following the road 
to Briilisau (see above) for 100 paces , we ascend to the right ; 
8 min. , a house , whence the bridle-tracli diverges to the left, 
while the good footpath leads straight on through a gate, 
crossing the bridle-path at (20 min.), a double gate; we then 
cross the meadow in the direction of the Ebenalp, or rather 
towards the depression between it and the wooded Bommen-Alp 
(to the left). A little below the top of the hill (40 min.) we 
turn to the right. (In 5 min. more the direct patli to the Ebenalp 
diverges to the right ; see below.) The path approaches the foot of 
the precipitous rocks which descend from the Ebenalp to the Seealp- 
Thal (see below). Near the ('/2hr.)*Zwmj4.esc/ie7" tavern we ascend to 
the right by a narrow, but safe path, skirting the perpendicular rocks, 
to the (5 min.) *Wildkirclili (4920^), formerly a hermitage, found- 
ed in 1656, with a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, situated in a 
grotto (33' wide; tavern). On the patron-saint's day (at the be- 
ginning of July) and on St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) solemn 
services are conducted here, and the grotto and the Ebenalp attract 



56 Route 17. SENTIS. The Canton 

nnmerous visitors. View of the deep Seealp-Thal (with the path to 
the Sentis opposite, see below), and, to the left, of the Lake of 
Constance, in the direction of Swabia and Bavaria. 

A dark passage in the rock, 150 paces long, closed by a door 
(opened by the landlord, who provides a light, '/2 fr.), leads from the 
grotto to the ""Ebenalp, where an entirely new Alpine view is dis- 
closed. The (25 min.) summit (5250'; Jnn, 6 beds) , commands 
a superb view of the Sentis, Altmann, Lake of Constance, etc. — 
We may descend direct to the (25 min.) Bommen-Alp (see above; 
guide useful to the beginning of the distinct path). 

Pleasant walk by Sc/twende, leaving the Sentis route (see below) to the 
left, to the (13/4 hr.J Seealp-See (3747'), very picturesquely situated in a 
basin between the Ologgeren and AUenalp (see p. 57). — A new path 
leads from the Aescher tavern (p. 55) to the Seealp-See in 3/4 hr. 

To the Leuerfall, IV2 hr. , also interesting; the path diverges to the 
right from that to the Wildkirchli after 20 min. and ascends the Weiss- 
bacht/ial, the last part through beautiful wood. 

The snow-clad *Sentis (8215'), the highest mountain in the 
canton, is most conveniently ascended from the "Weissbad (6 hrs. ; 
guide iO fr. ; one-horse carr. to Wasserauer 4 fr.). A road di- 
verges to the right from the road to Briilisau beyond the (3 min.) 
bridge over the Schwendebach, and ascends on the right bank of the 
brook to ( 1/4 hr.) *Sc/it«ende (2840'; *Inn Zur Felsenburg, on the 
left bank), and to the (35 min.) Wasserauer Inn, where the road 
ceases. The ascent now commences (KatzensteigJ, following the 
telegraph stakes, on the left side of a ravine through which a brook 
is precipitated; (40 min.) chalets of the Hiittenalp (milk). The 
narrow , but well - defined path now skirts the Schrinnen , the 
shelving pastures of the Gloggeren (below which are perpen- 
dicular rocks), affording beautiful glimpses of the Seealp-See far 
below, the Sentis and Altmann, and the Wildkirchli to the right. 
In 3/4 hr. we pass a refuge-hut , and in 3/^ hr. more we reach the 
Meglisalp {WoT \ small rustic inn), in a picturesque basin. The 
path ascends hence rather steeply on the left side of the valley and 
skirts the base of the Rossmaad , being frequently hewn in steps 
(the telegraph stakes commencing 10 min. from the Meglisalp may 
be followed). After 2 hrs. the inn on the Sentis becomes visible. 
In early summer the snow generally begins here , on which we as- 
cend to the inn (steep towards the end) in another hour. Later 
in the season the path leaves the snow on the left, gradually becom- 
ing steeper and crossing large masses of rock, and also reaches 
the inn in an hour. The Inn (beds at 3-5 fr., mattress in the attics 
l'/2fr.; often crowded on Sat. and Sun.; telegraph office) is 5 min. 
from the summit of the Sbntis or Hohb Mbsmbr , to which we 
finally mount by a path protected by a railing. 

The **ViEW (see Helm's excellent Panorama) extends over N.E. and 
E. Switzerland, embracing the Lake of Constance, Swabia and Bavaria, 
the Tyrolese Mts., the Grisons, and the Alps of Glarus and Bern. — The 
N. peak, separated from the S. by the ^Blaue Sc/mee^ (not to be tried with- 
out a guide; see p. 57) is named the Qyrenspitz or Oeierspitz (7766')- 



ofAppenzell. TEUFEN. 17. Route. 57 

From the Sentis we may descend, at firs over snow, and then by a 
path which is very steep at first, over the Schafboden and the Fliess- 
Alp to (31/2-4 hrs. ; in the reverse direction 6 hrs.) Wildhaus or Unter- 
wasser in the Toggenburg (p. 58 ; guide desirable). — The usual route 
FROM THE Weissbad TO WiLDHAUS (7V'2-8 hrs) Icads by Briilisau and 
through the BriiUobel to the Samblis-See (3965'), passes the Fdhlen-See 
(4772'; chalets), and ascends to the summit of the pass {Zwingli Pass, about 
6560'), between the Altmanii (see below) on the right, and the Krayulp- 
first ((3953') and Roslenfirst (6832") on the left. We descend by the Kray- 
Alp (5933'), and the Teselalp (4560') to Wildhaus. This route, however, is 
rough, and the Sentis route (not much longer) is preferable. 

Mountaineers may combine a visit to the Wildkiichli (p. 55) with 
the ascent of the Sentis (guide necessary, 15 fr.) by leaving the valley 
of the Seealp-See to the left. The path leads high above the Seealp- 
See at the base of the Zdnsler and Schdfler across the AUen-Alp , the 
Oehrli , and over the Muschelfels (numerous fossils) ; hence either to the 
left across the valley to the Wagenlucke by the path which ascends from 
Weissbad (see above), or (1 hr. shorter) across the Blaue Sclmee (caution 
on account of the crevasses) past the base of the Gyrenspitz , and over 
the Flatten direct to the summit (7-8 hrs. in all). — A path, constructed by 
the S. A. C, ascends to the summit on the W. side also (6 hr?., with guide). 
It starts from the Gemeinen- Wesen Alp (4210' ; reached from Urnasch or 
Nesslau in 2 hrs.), ascends over stony slopes, and mounts a steep rocky 
slope in zigzags to the first mountain-terrace. The ascent is then more 
gradual, over rock and pasture, to the Fliesbordkamm and the (2'/2hrs.) 
Clvb Hut on the Thiericeid (7150'). We next traverse rocks and debris, 
leaving the 'Blaue Schnee' on the right (see p. 56), and ascend in steep 
zigzags to the arete between the Gyrenspitz and the Sentis. Lastly we 
mount the Platlen by a flight of steps 140 yds. long, protected by a wire 
railing, and reach the (IV2 hr.) summit. 

The Altmann (7986'; 7 hrs. with guide; toilsome), is ascended from 
the Weissbad via the Fahlenalp tin A Zwi7igU Pass (see ahove); descent through 
the Lochlibetler to the Meglisalp (p. 56). 



Railway from Appenzell to Winkeln, via Urnasch and Herisau, 
see p. 48. — If time permit, however, the picturesque Road via. 
Tetjfen to St. Gallen (12 M. ; diligence thrice daily in 2 hrs. 
25 min.) is preferable. It runs by (3 M.) Gais (p. 54), and 
along the Rothbach, separating Appenzell-Ausser-Rhoden from Ap- 
penzell-Inner-Rhoden, to [1 V2M.} Biihler (p. 54) and (2M.) Teufen 
(2743'; pop. 4740; *Hecht; *Lmde), a wealthy industrial village, 
picturesquely situated, with a fine view of the Sentis chain ; and 
thence through meadows and woods to (6 M.) St. Oallen. 

A Path from Appenzell to Teufen, a slightly shorter route, crosses the 
Sitter near Mettlen, and descends the valley of the Sitter, high on its right 
bank , by Steig, Lank, and JJaslen. It leads thence to the N.E., over the 
hill, and through several woods, descends into the valley of the Rothbach, 
crosses the brook, and ascends to Teufen. 

The Footpath from Teufen to St. Gallen (i'/2 hr.) diverges from 
the high-road near the 'Hecht' inn, and immediately ascends to (','4 hr.) 
the Schdfle's-Egg (3020'; tavern) ; it then descends to (^ '4 hr.) St. Georgen, 
where it joins the high-road to (i'/2 31.) St. Gallen. — About 10 min. to 
the W. of the Schafle's-Egg is the -Frolichsegg (3290'; "Inn), which com- 
mands an admirable view. Teufen in the foreground, the green Alpine 
valley sprinkled with dwellings, and the Appenzell Mts., beginning with 
the Fahnern, on the left, the Kamor, the Hohe Kasten about the middle of 
the chain, the green Ebenalp below the snow, more to the right the 
Altmann and the Sentis with its snow-fields, then in the distance the 
Glarnisch and Speer; to the W. the railway and road to Wyl, and to 
the N., part of the Lake of Constance. Hence to St. Gallen, 3 M. 



18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs 
in the Rhine Valley. 

Comp. Maj), p. 52. 

Railway from Wyl to Ebnat., IS'/z M., in 1 hr. 5 min. (1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 
40 c. ; 2ncl and 3rd cl. only). — From Ebnat to Bucks., 24 M., diligence 
twice daily in 51/4 hrs. (5 fr. 20 c.); also several times daily to Nesslau in 
1 hr., and to Alt St. Johann in 2^/3 hrs. — Carriage with one horse from 
Wildhaus to Gams 8 fr. (carriages in Gams to he had at the 'Kreuz' inn) ; 
to Buchs 9 fr. ; to Ebnat., 14 fr. 

Wyl, on the Winterthur and St. Gallen line, see p. 48. The train 
traverses the Togc/enburg, the busy and populous valley of the Thur. 

When the Counts of Toggenburg became extinct (1436) , the County 
was purchased by the Abbots of St. Gallen, who at the same time secured 
to the inhabitants their ancient rights and privileges. In the course of 
centuries, however, a great part of the population having embraced 
Protestantism, the abbots violated their contract, which resulted in their 
expulsion at the beginning of the 18th century. This gave rise to the 
Toggeithurg War., a violent feud in which the Roman Catholic cantons 
espoused the cause of St. Gallen , while the Protestants took the part of 
the Toggenburgers. No fewer than 150,000 men were thus gradually 
brought into the field. In July, 1712, the Roman Catholics were at length 
defeated at Villmergen in the Aargau ; and a general peace was concluded, 
which secured to the Toggenburgers full enjoyment of all their ancient 
liberties, though they were still to belong to the Canton of St. Gallen. 

41/0 M. Batzenheid ; opposite is Jonswyl, with a new church. Op- 
posite (6 M.) Lutishurg we cross the Guggerloch by a viaduct 170 yds. 
long, and 190' high. Stations Biltschwyl, Dietfurt, and (IO72 M.) 
Lichtensteig (pop. 1477; * Krone), a pleasant town on a rocky 
height, with a modern Gothic church. On a hill to the E. (li/4hr.) 
is the ruin of Neu-Toggenburg (3566'), a fine point of view. 

121/2 M. Wattwyl (2027'; Ross; *Toggenburg), a charming 
village, with 5252 inhab. and a new church. (Diligence to Utz- 
nach, 4 times daily in 1^/4 hr., see p. 43.) On a hill to the right is 
the nunnery of St. Maria der Engeln, and above it the ruin of 
Yberg. The last station is (1572 M.) Ebnat-Kappel. The village of 
Ebnat (2106'; *Kronei Sonne; Rosenbuhl, a restaurant with view) 
is a thriving place ; 1 M. to the N. W. is Kappel (Traube; Stern). 

The 'Speer (6417'; not difficult for experts) may be ascended through 
the Steinthal in 5 hrs. (finger-posts; comp. p. 44); Or from Neu St. Johann, 
or from Nesslau (see below), by the Alp im Laad and the Herren-Alp in 
6 hrs. (guide 7 fr.). 

The High Road , commanding a view of the Curflrsten op- 
posite, and, near Neu St. Johann, of the Sentis on the left, ascends 
slightly on the right bank of the Thur, to Krummenau (2386'), 
where the 'Sprung', a natural rock-bridge, crosses the stream, Neu St. 
Johann (Schafle), with an old Benedictine abbey, and (41/2 M.) — 

20 M. Nesslau (2470'; *Krone; Traube; Stern), with a pretty 
church . 

To Urnasch over the Krazern Pass (4'/2 hrs.), a fine route. A road 
ascends from Neu St. Johann through the Lavterthal, via Ennetbilhl and 
the Riedbad or Ennetbiihler-Bad, to the (I'/a hr.) Alp Bernhalden (3402') ; a 
path to the left then ascends through the Krdzernwald to the Krazern 
Pass (3936'), and crosses the pastures of Krazern to the. {'2 hrs.) Ross/all- Alp 



WILDHAUS. 18. Route. 59 

finn), whence a road leads to (1 hr.) Urndsch (p. 48). — Ascent of the 
Sentis (p. 56) from Nesslau, 6 hrs. : from Bernhalden in V4 hr. to i'ii& Alp 
Gemeinen-Wesen (4210'}; new path thence to the (4 hrs.) top (p. 57). — 

Ascent of the Speer, see p. 58. 

The scenery becomes bleaker. The road leads past a fine fall of 
the Weisse Thur to (21/4M.) Stem (Krone) and (2V4M.) Starkenbach 
(Drei Eidgenossen) , a straggling village. To the right the ruin 
of Starkenstein. (Route over the Amdener Berg to Weesen , see 
p. 44; guide as far as the pass advisable.) Passing (1 1/2 M.) .4Jt 
St. Johann (2920'; *R6ssli) and (3/4 M.) Vnterwasser (Stern; 
Traube), prettily situated at the sources of the Thur, we ascend to 
(33/4 M.) - 

301/2 M. WUdhaus (3600'; *Hirsch; Sonne). A little before 
entering the village , we pass on the right the wooden house, 
blackened with age, in which Zwingli was born on 1st Jan., 1484. 
Wildhaus belonged to Rhaetia tUl 1310, and the region of the Ro- 
mansch language (p. 345) extended to this point. Behind the vill- 
age, which lies at the foot of the Schafberg (7820'), we obtain a fine 
survey of the seven peaks of the Curflrsten (p. 44); or still better 
from the (8/4 hr.) Som?nerJfcop/" (4317'). 

Ascent of the Sentis from Wildhans or Alt St. Johann (via the Fliess- 
Alp and the Schafboden in 6 hrs. ; guide ; toilsome), see p. 57. — To Weiss- 
bad by the Krayalp., the Fdhlensee, and Sdmbtis-See (7 hrs.), see p. 57. — To 
Walenstadt over the Kdserruck, 6 hra., see p. 45. 

The road descends, finally describing a long bend, to (6 M.) 
Gams (1575'; *Kreuz), in the Rhine Valley, and then leads straight 
to (1 V2 ^0 Haag (p. 340), while a road to the right leads via Grabs 
and Werdenberg to (31/2 M.) — 

391/2 M. Bucks (p. 340). 

19. From Zurich to Glarus and Liuththal. 

53 M. Railway ( Nordosthahn) to Glarus (43 31.) in 2'/^ hrs. (7 fr. 20, 
5fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c.); from Glarus to Linththal (10 M.) in 40-50 min. (1 fr. 
60c., Ifr. 15c., 80 c.). (From Weesen to Glarus, 7V'j M-, in 25 min. ; 1 fr, 
25c., 90c., 65 c.). Carriages are usually changed at Glarus. 

Railway on the left bank from Ziirich to (36 M.) Ziegelbriicke, 
see pp. 42, 43. The train again crosses the Linth Canal (p. 42) and 
traverses the broad valley towards the S. ; on the right the Wiggis 
and Glarnisch (see p. 60). 37 M. Nieder- and Ober-Vrnen; 39 M. 
Ndfels-MoUis, junction for (I1/4 M.) Weesen (p. 43). 

Nafels (1434' ; Linthhof; Hirsch; Schwert) and Ober-Urnen are 
the only Roman Catholic villages in Canton Glarus. The church is 
the finest in the canton. The restored Freuler Palace, now a poor- 
house, contains some exquisite panelling. On 9th April, 1388, the 
canton here shook off the Austrian yoke. In the Rautifelder, where 
eleven attacks took place, stand eleven memorial stones (monument 
in the Siindlen). On the second Thursday of April the natives flock 
to Nafels to celelirate the anniversary. — On the opposite bank of 



60 Route 19. GLARUS. From Ziirkh 

the Escher Canal lies Mollis (1470'; *Bar, *Ldwe, l)Oth moderate), 
an industrial village. (Over the Kerenzenberg to Muhlekorn, see f.M.) 

Excursions (guide, if. Hauser). The Rautispitz (7493'), the summit 
of the Wiggis Chain (sec below), rising abruptly to the S.W., is ascended 
from Nafels in S'/aO hrs. (interesting; no difficulty; guide 18 fr.). On the 
right bank of the IlaiitWac/i, with its numerous fulls, we ascend in zigzags, 
cross the Thriingibach^ and reach a road through wood. Passing above the 
(1 hr.) Nkdersee or HasUnsee (2460'), we reach the {^/^ hr.) charmint; Obersee 
(3225'), skirt the lake to the left, and ascend through wood to the Grappli- 
Alp (4730') and (2 hrs.) RauH-Alp (5400'), and in l'/? hr. more to the sum- 
mit, which slopes gradually on the W. side (beautiful view). — An arete 
of rock 1 hr. long, traversed by a path whicb should not be attempted by 
those subject to dizziness, connects the Rautispitz with the Scheye (7420'), 
the second highest peak of the Wiggis. The Scheye may also be ascended 
from Vorauen (p. 66) by the Langenegg-Alp (4V2 hrs.), or from the KliJn- 
thalersee (p. 60) by the Iterberig and the Detjenalp (4 hrs.), or from Netstall 
by the Auern-Alp (5 hrs.). 

41 M. Netstall (St. Fridolin; Bar; Robe; Schwert), a large vil- 
lage (pop. 2400), lies at the E. base of the Wiggis. The Lontsch, 
descending from the KLonthal (p. 66), falls into the Linth here. 

43 M. Glarus. — *Glarnek Hof, at the station, R., L., &A. 4, B. IV2, 
D. 4 fr. ; -Raben, opposite the post-office, R. &- A. 3'/2, B. 1, C incl. wine 
3 fr. ; 'DitEi EiDGENOssEN, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Lowe ; Sonne ; Adlee ; 
beer at the Cafi Tobias, opposite the station, at the Eaben, etc. ; 'Restau- 
rant on the Bergli (1883'), 20 min. to the W. of the town, an admirable 
point of view. 

Glarus (1490' ; pop. 5357), Fr. Claris, the capital of the canton, 
with busy industries, lies at the N.E. base of the precipitous and 
imposing Vorder-Gldrnisch (7648'), at the W. base of the Schild 
(7503'), and at the S.E. base of the Wiggis (see above), the barren, 
grey summits of which form a striking contrast to the fresh green on 
its slopes. The Hausstock (10,355') forms the background to theS.; 
to the left the KdrpfstockldiSO''), to the right the fiuc/ti (10, 190'). 
In 1861 , during a violent 'Fohn' (S. wind), the greater part of 
the town was burned down. The new Romanesque church is used 
by the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in common. In 1506- 
12 the reformer Zwingli was pastor at the old church, on the site of 
"which the law-courts now stand. The two grassy spaces in front 
represent the old cemetery. The Law Courts contain the Can- 
tonal Archives , the public Library , and collections of antiquities 
and natural curiosities (fine fossils). In the Government ^- Postal 
Buildings is an excellent relief-model of the canton of Glarus by 
"Becker (adm. free). In the art department is a small Picture 
Gallery, containing chiefly works by Swiss artists. The Public 
Gardens, in front of the Glarner Hof, are embellished with a hand- 
some fountain, and contain memorial stones to the statesmen J.Heer 
(d. 1879) and J. J. Blumcr (d. 1876), both natives of Glarus. — On 
the opposite bank of the Linth lies the busy manufacturing village 
of Ennenda (Hotel Neues Bad). 

Excursions (guides, see p. 62). The Schild (7500') is a fine point (51/2 
hrs.; guide 12 fr.). The path from Glarus leads through wood and pastures, 
and over the ICnnetberge, to the (3 hrs.) Ileuboden-Alp (4770') and thence 
to the right, without difficulty, to the top in 2V2 hrs. more. Admirable 



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to Linththal. SCHWANDEN. 19. Route. 61 

view of the Miirtschenstock, Todi, and Glarnisch. — The Fronalpstock 
(6982'; similar view) is easily ascended by the Ennetberge and the Fronalp 
in 5 hrs. — To the Mukgthal from the Heuboden-Alp, by the Miirtscfien- 
Alp {Oberstafel , f063'), see p. 45 (to the Merlen-Alp direct, 2 hrs.; over 
the Murgseefurkel to the Murgseen, 2'/2 hrs.)- — To Filzbach (8 hrs.; 
guide unnecessary for good walkers), a line route: we cross the Fronalp 
(Mittlere 5193', Obere 6039'), pass between the Fronalpstock and Fahristock 
to the (5 hrs.) Spannegg (5108'), skirt the little Spannegg-See (4757'; with 
the Miirtschenstock on our right, p. 44). and descend over the Platten-Alp to 
the Thalalp-See (3610') and (3 hrs.) Filzhach (p. 44). — The Vorder- Glarnisch 
(7648'), from Glarus 51/2-6 hrs. (guide 13 fr.), see p. 66. 

The 'KIbnthal (p. 66) deserves a visit. Good road to the KlOnthaUr 
See 4V2 M., to Vorauen 4V2 M. more (one-horse carr. in I'/z hr., there and 
back 15, two-horse carr. 20-25 fr.). 

From Glarus over the Pragel to Schicyz, see E. 2i ; through the Sernf- 
thal to Coire, see R. 22. 

The railway to Linththal crosses the Linth six times. 44 M. 
Ennenda (p. 60). Near (451/2 M.) Mitlodi (1665'; Hirsch), and again 
beyond it, we obtain a stiperb view of the Todi and its neighbours, 
which are not visible beyond Schwanden. On the right bank lies 
Ennetlinth. The scenery is picturesque, the fertile valley with its 
factories contrasting pleasantly with the rocky and wooded slopes 
and the snow-mountains at its head. Pedestrians, who will also 
find this valley attractive, follow the right bank of the Linth, via 
Ennenda^ Ennetlinth, Soot, and Hasten, to Hdtzingen (see below). 

47 M. Schwanden (1712'; Rail. Restaurant). The village {*Adler, 
pens. 5-6 fr.), with its large factories, lies at the junction of the 
Sernf- Thai or Klein-Thai with the Linth-Thal or Gross-Thai. 

Diligence to Elm, see p. 67. — To the Oberblegi-See (4680'), a pleasant 
excursion, by Nidfitrn, in 3 hrs. ; fine view of the Linththal and Todi. 
We may also ascend by the charmingly situated villages of Than and 
Schwandi to the (31/2 hrs.) Guppen-Alp (bbiO'), go on past the small Gnppen- 
Seelt and the Leuggelstock (5673') to the (1 hr.) Oberblegisee, and return by 
Kidfurn. 

The train crosses the Linth below the influx of the Sernf and 
passes through the village of Schwanden. Beyond (48 M.) Nidfurn- 
Haslen is Leuggelbach, with a fine waterfall on the right. 50 M. 
Luchsingen-Hatzingen, two well-to-do villages, one on each bank 
of the Linth. We cross the stream to (51 M.) Betschwanden-Dies- 
bach (1958'J; on the left, a beautiful fall of the Diesbach. 

The Saasberg (6467'), a spur of the Freiberg Range, easily ascended 
from Betschwanden, Riiti, or Stachelberg in 31/4-4 hrs., commands a strik- 
ing view of the head of the valley and the surrounding mountains. — 
Ascent of the Karpfatock {Hochkarpf, 9177'), the highest of the Freiberge, 
laborious, and suitable for experts only (with guide ; 7-8 hrs. from Betsch- 
wanden or Riiti, via Bodmen-Alp and Kiihthal). 

Beyond stat. Riiti we cross the Linth for the last time. 53 M. 
Linththal, the terminus, lies on the left bank. About 1/4 M. to the 
N. are the favourite *Baths of Stachelberg (2178'; *6lamers 
Hotel, R., L., & A. 31/2-4, D. 31/9, S. 2V.2fr., B. 1 fr. 40 c., pens. 
61/.2 fr. , R. extra , visitors' tax 1 fr. per week ; de'pendance at 
the 'Seggen', on the right bank), beautifully situated. The power- 
ful sulphureous alkaline water drops from a cleft in the Braunwald- 
berg, II/.2 M. distant. The *View of the head of the valley is very 



62 lioute 19. STACHELBERG. From Zurich 

striking : in the centre is the Selbsan/t (9920') , to the right the 
Kammerstock (6975'), and adjoining it part of the Todi to the left; 
between the latter and the Bifertenstock (11,240') lies the Biferten 
Glacier. Pleasant walks have heen laid out on the wooded hillside. 

— English Church Service at the hotel in summer. 

A road leads from the station to (8/4 M.) Linththal (2238'; pop. 
2232; Bar or Post; Robe; Klausen, all moderate), a considerable 
village on the right bank of the Liiith, with large spinning-mills 
and other factories. On the opposite bank lies Ennetlinth (p. 04). 

ExcL'KSioNS. Stachelberg is a good starting-point for exploring the 
Todi region. (Guides; Ileinrich and Peter Elmer of Elm, Salomon and 
Adam ZiDei/el, Heinrich Schiesser, Rob. Hamig, Thorn. Wichser, Jakob Nolz, 
and Friedrich Vogeli of Linththal ; Fritz Brander, Heinrich Streiff, and 
Abraham Stiissi, ofGlarus. High charges.) To the "Fatschbach- Fall (p. 64) ; 
"Panle/ibriicke, -Ueli-Alp, and Sandalp, see below; also to the (l'/2 hr.) 
" Braunwaldbergen (4920'; small inn), a mountain hamlet with a magni- 
ficent view of the Todi, best from beside the school, li/.; M. farther on; 
to the Oberblegi - See fp. 61), etc. — The Kammerstock (6975'), by the 
Kammer-Alp, 4 hrs. , repaying, and not difiicult. — The Ortstock, or 
Silberstock (8908'), by the Alp Brdch and the Furkel, 6 hrs. ^ laborious; 
splendid view (guide 18 fr.)- — The Grieset, or Faulen (8940'), by the 
Braunwaldberye, 6 hrs., attractive, and not difficult (guide 18 fr.). The 
Bose Faulen (9200') , the N. and higher peak of the Grieset, is difiicult 
(672-7 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). These peaks afford an interesting survey of 
the stony wilderness around. Other fine points are the iymmfw^ioci (8440'; 
G hrs.) and the Kirchberg (Hoher Thurm; 8761'; 7 hrs., with guide). From 
Faulen via the Dreckloch-Alp (55G0') to the Gldrnisch-JJiitte (p. 66), 472 hrs. 

— The Gemsfayrenstock (9758'), from the Upper Sandalp (see p. 63), by the 
Beckenen and the Clarideii Glacier in 3V2 hrs. , not difficult. The descent 
may be made by the Qemsfayeralp to the Urner-Boden (p. 64). 

A road leads from Linththal (one-horse carr. from Stachelberg 
8 fr. for 1/2 day, two-horse 12 fr. ; whole day 12 or 20 fr.) by the 
Aumgiiter to the (8V2 M.) Thierfehd (2680'; * Curanstalt ^^ Hotel 
Todi , peiis.5-G fr.), a green pasture surrounded by lofty mountains. 
During the latter part of the route we have a view of the *Schreien- 
bach Waterfall (230' high), which the morning sun tints with rain- 
bow hues. Beautiful view from the *Kdnz€li, ^/i M. from the inn. 

The beautiful Falls of tlie Linth, in a romantic rocky basin below the 
Pantenbriicke (see below), are best viewed from a point reached by turn- 
ing to the left at the Kiinzcli through wood and ascending the grassy 
slope for about ^jihr. (guide necessary). 

A few paces beyond the Hotel a bridge crosses the Linth, beyond 
which the stony path ascends for '/2 hour. A slab on a large rock on 
the left is to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished on the 
Griinhorn in 1866. The path then descends a little towards the rav- 
ine, turns a corner, and reaches (1/4 hr.) the *Pantenbrucke (3212'), 
160' above the Linth, in the midst of imposing scenery. On the 
right bank, a path ascends the grassy slope straight to the ('/4 hr.) 
*Ueli-Alp (3612'), where we enjoy a superb view of the Tiidi. 

Thence we may either return by the same road to the Hotel Todi; or 
we may ascend to the right to the (I74 hr.) lower Baumgarten-Alp (5285'), 
which lies on the right bank of the valley above the Thierfehd and presents 
a magnificent view, and descend liy a narrow and dizzy path (guide necess- 
ary) skirting the precipice of the Triit, turning to the left, 5min. lieyond the 
Baumgarten-AIp, to Obort (3425'; ''Inn, plain), and thence either to the left 



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to Linththal. • TODI. W. Route. G3 

back to 0/2 lir.) Thierfehd, or to the right via the Auengtiter to (1 hv.) 
Linththal. — A steep path leads to the E. from the Baumgarten-Alp along 
precipitous grassy slopes to (IV4 hr.) the rocks of the Thvr (6755'), where 
it becomes easier and bends to the right to (1 hr.) the Niischenalp (7270'), 
thence skirting the A[uttcnwandli to (IV4 hr.) the club-hut on the romanti- 
cally situated Muttensee (80lU')> the loftiest lake among the Swiss Alps. 
The hut, which has accommodation for 20 persons, is the starting-point 
for the ascents of the Niischenstock (9500'), Riichi (9355'), SchHdstock (9220'), 
Ruchi (10,190'), Hausslock (10,340'), Muttenstock (10,140'), Piz Darlgas (9135'), 
Bifertenstock (11.240'), Selbsunfl (9940'), and other peaks. Via the Kisten 
Pass to lUmz, see below. 

The '^Upper Sandalp (6358'), 3V2hrs. above the Pantenbriicke, is frequently 
viiited on account of its grand situation. The path ascends beyond the 
Pantenbriicke to the right {that in a straight direction leads to the Uelialp, 
see above), crosses the Litnmern- Badi, which descends from a narrow ravine, 
and the Sand-Bach, and ascends on the left bank to the (1 hr.) Vorde7'e 
Sandalp (4100'; refreshm.). The path now returns fo the right bank. By 
the Hintere Sandalp (4330') it crosses the Biferten-Bach, and then ascends the 
steep and fatiguing slope of the Ochsenblanken , 2000' in height, where the 
Sandbach forms a fine cascade. La.stly we recross to the left bank, where 
the brook forces its passage through a gorge, and soon reach the (2 hrs.) 
chalets of the Upper Sandalp (Alpine fare and hay-beds in July and August). 
The best point of view is '/2 hr. beyond the chalets. 

The Linthal is terminated by a magnificent group of snow-mountains. 
The giant of this group is the *T6di, or Piz Rusein (11,887'; from Linththal 
10-11 hrs.; only fit for experts; guide 40 fr. ; two guides required for one 
traveller, or one guide for two travellers), with its brilliant snowy crest, 
the most conspicuous mountain of N.E. Switzerland, ascended for the first 
time in 1837. The route is from the Hintere Sandalp to the (S'/o hrs.) 
Griinhorn Hut (8082'; spend night), and thence up the Bi/erien-Firn to the 
summit, difficult at places, in 4-5 hrs. more. Magnificent view. We may 
descend by the Porta da Spescha, between the Piz Mellen (11,085') and 
Stockgron (11,215'), to the Val Rusein and (6 hrs.) Disentis (p. 362; guide 
50 fr.) ; or by the Gliemsp/orte (10,925'), between the Stockgron and the 
Piz Urlaun to the Gliems Glacier; then through a gap to the E. of the 
Puntaiglas Glacier and down the Val Puntaiglas to Truns (comp. p. 361). 
— The Bifertenstock or Piz Surgin (11,240'), the highest peak but one of 
the Todi group, may be ascended from the Muttensee Club-hut (see above) 
via the Kisten Pass (see below) and ihe^Furggle^ in 6-7 hrs. (difficult; for 
adepts only ; guide 40 fr.). 

Passes. From the Upper Sandalp a fatiguing route crosses the Sand- 
firn and the Sandalp Pass (9210') to Disentis in 6-7 hrs. (guide 30 fr.); 
another , fatiguing but interesting , crosses (8 hrs.) the Clakiden Pass 
(9843') to the Maderaner Thai (p. 114, guide 36 fr.). 

From Linththal ovee the Kisten Pass to Ilanz, 13 hrs. (guide 30 fr.), 
fatiguing. Ascent by the (3 hrs.) Baumgarten-Alp to the Muttensee Club- 
hut (see above). Thence via the Muttenalp, the Latienfrn, and the Kisten- 
band, high above the Limmernthal and opposite the Selbsanft and Bifer- 
tenstock (with the Gries and Limmern glaciers), to the (1 hr.) Kisten Pass 
(8200'J, lying to the N. of the Kistenstijckli (9020'). Descent by the Alp Rubi 
to (3 hrs.) Brigels and thence to the left to (21/2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 359), or to 
the right via Schlans to (2 hrs.) Truns (p 361). 

From Stachelberg by the Bisithal to Muotathal, see p. 65. 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Elausen. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 60, 76. 

10 hrs. Bridle-path to I'nterschachen : from Stachelberg to Spitelriiti 
3'/4, Klausen 2, Aelpli Aesch IV4, Unterschachen 1, Altdorf (diligence every 
forenoon in l'/2 hr.) 7 M.; guide (18 fr.) unnecessary; horse to Unter- 
schiichen 27, to AUdorf 32 fr. 



64 Route 20. KLADSEN PASS. 

Leaving Stachelberg, we follow the left bank of the Linlh, pass 
EnnetUnth, cross the (I/2 l^r.) Frutbach (small waterfall), and ascend 
to the right through wood; 5 min. farther on (where the path divides, 
we follow the lower) we pass a fine *Waterfall of the Fdtschbach, 
which descends from the Irner Boden. (In order to view the fall we 
turn to the right, fifteen paces before reaching the little bridge, and 
ascend for 200 paces by a narrow path on the left bank. We then 
return almost to the beginning of the path, and ascend the Frutberg, 
on which we regain the bridle-path in 5 min.) The path ascends 
rapidly through wood for 1 hr. (to the left a new path to the beautiful 
Upper Fdtschbach FaUs), then for the next 40 min. more gradually. 
A wall and gate form the boundary between Glarus and Uri at the 
point where the Scheidbdchli (4290') descends from the right. 

The XJrner Boden (21/4 hrs. from Stachelberg), a broad grassy 
and at places marshy valley, with a few groups of chalets, about 4M. 
long and 1/2 M. broad, now begins. It is bounded on the N. by the 
jagged ridge of the Jdgernstocke anAMdrenberge, culminating in the 
Ortstock (8908') , and on the S. by the glaciers and snow-fields of 
the Clariden (10,728'). About 1/2^^. from the frontier of Glarus we 
pass the Alpine tavern Zur Sonne, and then (25 min.) the chalets of 
Spitelriiti, with a chapel on a hill (4560'), 

The path traverses the pasture for ^/2^"[- more, and then ascends 
a stony slope, passing (8/4 hr.) an excellent spring to the left, to the 
(1/4 hr.) Klausen-Alp and the Ch^^O Klausen Pass (6437'). On the 
W. side we descend the gentle slopes of the beautifully situated 
Bodmer Alp (to the left, the Orosse Scheerhorn, 10,815'). After 
1/2 tr., where the path divides, we turn to the left to the (5 min.) 
chalets of the Lower Balm (5600') and cross the brook to a rocky 
cleft, forming the approach to the Balmwand, which here descends 
precipitously to the Schachenthal. The stony path descends in zig- 
zags to the 0/2 br-) Aelpli ('little Alp') Aesch (4173'; *H6t. Stdubi, 
rustic). To the left, the discharge of the Gries Glacier, on the N. 
side of the Scheerhorn, forms the magnificent *Stduber Waterfall. 

We now descend the wooded Schachenthal, on the left bank of 
the turbulent Schdchenbach. On the right bank (35 min.) the Chapel 
of St. Anna ; 10 min., we cross the stream ; 74 hr., ITnterschacheu 
(3345'; *Hdlel Klausen, moderate ; carr. to Altdorf 10 fr.), finely sit- 
uated near the mouth of the Brunni-Thal, through which peeps the 
GrosseRuchen{iO,2db'^ with its glaciers. (Over the Ruchkehlen Pass 
to the Maderaner Thai, see p. 114.) To the N. rises the Schdchen- 
thaler Windy dlle (9052'), and farther W. the Kinzig Pass (p. 65), 
the scene of Suvoroff's celebrated retreat. 

A road descends the pretty valley, by Spiringen, where a disastrous 
landslip from the Spitzen (8050'), situated on the S., occurred in 
June 1887, Weiterschwanden, and Trudelingen, to (5 M.) a stone 
bridge over the Schachenbach,and thence to (1 M.) Bilrglen (p. 102) 
and Altdorf (see p. 101). 



65 



21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel. 

C'oinp. Maps, pp. 76', 60. 

Il hrs. Diligence from Schwyz to (8 M.) Muotathal twice daily in 
11/2 hr. ; carriage with one horse 9 , with two horses 14 fr. From Muota- 
thal over the Pragel to (4'/4 hrs.) Richisau , a bridle-path , unattractive ; 
guide advisable, especially early and late in the season when the pass is 
covered with snow (18 fr. ; Jos. Gwerder or Xav. Hediger of Muotathal). 
Kg inn between Muotathal and Richisau. The pass being uninteresting, it 
is preferable to visit the Muotathal , as far as the Suvoroff bridge , from 
Schwyz or Brunnen, and the Klonthal from Glarus (see p. 61). 

Schwyz, see p. 100. The road ascends to the S. through or- 
chards and meadows (view of the Lake of Lucerne to the right), and 
in a wooded ravine at the foot of the Oiebel (3010') reaches the Muota, 
which flows through a deep rocky channeL Opposite, to the right, 
is Ober-Schonenbuch, upon which the French were driven back by 
Suvoroff in 1799. Farther up the Muota ravine (2^/2 M.), but not 
visible from the road, is the Suvoroff Bridge, which was contested 
by the Russians and the French for two days. (At a sharp bend 
in. the road, 2^/2 M. from Schwyz, a road descends to the right to 
this bridge in 3min.; we may then return to Schwyz through wood 
and pastures on the left bank, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. in all.). 
Beyond (21/2 M.) Ried (1855'; Adler) , on the left, is the pretty 
fall of the Ostubtbach , at first descending perpendicularly , and 
then gliding over the rock. At (1 M.) Follmis (1900') we cross the 
Muota and pass the Mettelbachfallin iheKesseltobel. Then(2M.) — ■ 

8M. Muotathal (1995'; pop. 2021; *Kreuz; *Hirsch, moderate; 
Krone), the capital of the valley, with the Franciscan, Nunnery of St. 
Joseph, founded in 1280, in which Suvoroff had his headquarters 
in 1799. Fine rock scenery and waterfalls in the vicinity. 

Over the Kinzig Pass to Altorf, 8 hrs., fatiguing (guide unnecessary 
for adepts). After following the Pragel route for 1/4 lir., we diverge by 
the Muota Dridge to the right, and ascend the Huri-Thal, passing the cha- 
lets of Lipplisbiild and Wiingi, to the (S'/a hrs.) Kinzig Pass {Kinzigkulm; 
6790'), lying to the S.E. of the Faiileii (SISCC). A height 1/4 hr. to the S. 
commands a striking "View of the Bernese Alps and of the Scheerhorn 
and Clariden to the S.E. Then a rapid descent to the Sclidchenthal (p. 64), 
Weiterschwanden, and Bur-glen (p. 1()2). The Kinzig Pass is famous for the 
masterly retreat of Suvoroff, who, when cut off from the Lake of Lucerne 
by the French in Sept. 1799, marched with his army throughthe Schachen- 
thal to the Muotathal , thence over the Pragel to Glarus , and lastly over 
the Panixer Pass to Coire. 

Theough the Bisithal to Stachelbeeg, 10 hrs., rough but attractive; 
guide necessary. Good path (at first a road) through the Bisithal, water- 
ed by the Muota, to (2'/2 hrs.) Sckwarzenbach (3153'); steep ascent thence 
to the left to the (3 hrs.) Alp Melchberg (6293'); then across the dreary 
Karrenalp between the Kirchberg and Faulen (p. 62), and down the Braun- 
waldalp to (4-5 hrs.) Stachelbeyg. Another route is from Schwarzenbach 
across the Bcirensool and Geitenherg Alps to the Rohbiitzli-Alp and the 
Karrenalp. Or from Schwarzenbach we may go farther up the Muota, 
and then ascend to the right over the Waldi-Alp and Ruos-Alp to the 
(4 hrs.) Ruosalper Kiilm (7125'), descend to X^i^ Kasem-Alp, turn to the left, 
and reach the (IV4 hr.) Balmalp on the Klausen route (see p. 64). 

To SisiKoN THROUGH THE RiEMENSTALDENTHAL and across the Katztti- 
zagel (4888'), a footpath, 7 hrs. (unattractive). 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 5 



66 Route 21. KLONTHAL. 

From Muotathal the path leads to the ('/2 't-) foot of the Stal- 
den, and then ascends a toilsome and stony slope to (1 hr.) a group 
of houses (fine retrospect); V4^'^- farther on, it crosses the Starzlen- 
bach by the Klosterberg Bridge, to the left, and ascends rapidly to 
the right to two houses ; 40 min., by a gate, we descend to the right. 
and cross the brook; 10 min., a cross; 5 min. , a cattle-shed in a 
picturesque valley; ^/i]ir.,the Sennebrunnen, with excellent water; 
5 min., refuge-hut; 5 min., a cross. Lastly, almost level, to the (25 
min.) chalets on the marshy Fragel (5060'; no view). 

The path, at first steep and stony, now descends to the (3/4 hr.) 
chalets of the Schwellaui (4367'), and then leads through wood ; 
1/4 hr., the Neuhuttli (4193'); here we turn to the right towards a 
large pine, where the pretty Klonthal and its lake become visible; 
7-2 hr. Richisau {3590'; Kurhaus, moderate, pens. 5-7 fr.), a rich 
green pasture with fine groups of trees, to the N. of which tower 
the Wannenstock (6495') and Ochsenkopf (7155'), and to the S. 
the furrowed slopes of the SUbern (7570'). 

The Schwcinnhohe, an old moraine, V2 M. to the E. of the Kurhaus, 
aflfords a beautiful view of the Klonsee, Schild, Glarnisch, and (to the S.) the 
Faulen. Attractive excursions may be made to the W. to the (2V2 hrs.) Cross 
on the Saasberg (6225'; pass to the Sihlthal and Einsiedeln) and to (5 min.) 
the Sihlseeli (5985'); to the S. to (3 hrs.) the top of the Silbern (7570'), 
with fossils and interesting furrowed slopes; to the Gldriiisch (see below; 
to the club-hut 4 hrs., thence tn the top 3 hrs.); to the top of i\i& Faulen 
(Grieset, 8953') via the Dreckloch-Alp in 6 hrs. (with guide), descending to 
(4 hrs.) Slachelberg (p. 61); to theN., via (1 'hT)t\i^ Sdiweinalp, to (S'/a hrs.) 
JlinUricaggithal (comp. p. 41); to the tup of the Oc/iscnkcpf (libb' ; 872 hrs. ; 
with guide); to the top of the Schei/e (5 hrs. ; seep. 60) vi^ Langenegg, etc. 

From Richisau a road descends , across a fine open pasture, in 
full view of the imposing Glarnisch, to (1 hr.) Vorauen (2640' ; 
Hotel-Pension Klonthal, new; Aebli^s Inn, -pluin), beautifully situated 
in the Klonthal. 

The -Glfimisch , the huge rocks of which bound the Klonthal on the 
S. side, one of the most picturesque mountains in Switzerland, culmin- 
ates in the Vorder- Glarnisch (7648'), the VrenelisgartU or MiUler-Gliirnisch 
(9535'), the Ruchen- Glarnisch (9557'), and the Bachistock or Hinler-Gldrnisch 
(9583'). The ascent of the Ruchen-Glarnisch is not difficult for moun- 
taineers (71/2 hrs. ; guide 25 fr. ; see p. 62). We cross the Richisauer and 
Kossmatter Kliin , to the W. of Vorauen, to the huts on (40 min.) the 
Klonstdldm (Vifiti' ; direct path hither from Richisau in 25 min.), then 
enter the narrow Rossmatter Thai, pass the chalets of Kasern (3968') and 
Werben (4.562'), and reach the (81/2 hrs.) Cliib Hut in the Steinlhali (6613'; 
Inn in summer). We next ascend steep stony slopes and cross the Glar- 
nisch frn, regain the rock, and reach the top in 3 hrs. from the hut. Very 
grand view (panorama by Heim). — Ascent of the Vorder-Gldrnisch from 
Glarus laborious (.5'/2-6 hrs. ; comp. p. 61). 

Ascent of the Schetie (Wiggis) from Vorauen, see p. 60. Over the 
Schweinalp Pass to the Wiiggithal, see p. 42. 

The *K16nthal is a picturesque dale, with meadows of freshest 
green, carpeted with wild- flowers until late in the autumn, and 
thinly peopled. To the S. rise the almost perpendicular precipices 
of the Glarnisch (see above). The pale-green ^iont/iater<See (2640'), 
11/2 M. from Vorauen, a lake 2 M. long and 1/3 M. broad, enhances 
the beauty of the valley, reflecting in calm weather the minutest 



SERNFTHAL. 22. Route. 67 

furrows on tlie side of the Glarnisch. The rocks on the S. bank, 
near a waterfall, bear an inscription to the poet Salomon Oessner 
(d. 1787), who often spent the summer in a neighbouring chalet. 
The road skirts the N. bank. A small steamer now plies on the 
lake; boat across the lake in 50 min., 1-10 pers. IV2 f^. At the 
(Sy.) M.) ^Seeruti\ at the lower end of the lake, is a small Inn. 

Below the lake the valley narrows to a gorge, through which 
dashes the LonfscA, the discharge of the lake, forming a series of 
cascades amid grand rocky scenery down to its confluence with the 
Linth, below Netstall. To the left rise the huge perpendicular cliffs 
of the Wiggis Chain (p. 60). We obtain a pretty view of the deep 
ravine from the iron foot-bridge , which crosses to the Kohlgrubli 
Inn, beside a (2/4 hr.) guide-post, below the road to the right. 

The road divides at the (^/^M.) Staldengarten inn. The left 
branch leads to (2 M.) Netstall (p. 60) , the right leads over the 
Lontsch bridge to (1 M.) Riedern and (I74 M.) Glarus (p. 60). 
In descending we enjoy a fine view of the Fronalpstock, the ScJiild, 
and the Freiberge (between the Linth and Sernf valleys). 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal. 

Comp. Mapi p. 60. 

16-18 hrs. Eailwat from Glarus to Schwanden, 17 min. ; Diligence 
from Schwanden to Elm twice dally in 2^/4 hrs. (descent, P/i hr.). — From 
Elm to Films over the Segnes Pass, 8-9 hrs., guide 20 fr. (p. 68); to Ilanz 
over the Panixer Pass, 9 hrs., guide 18 fr. — From Films to Coire Dili- 
gence twice daily in 2V4 hrs. ; from Films to Reichenau a pleasant walk; 
thence to Coire driving is preferable (diligence 4 times daily). 

At Schwanden (p. 61), 3 M. to the S, of Glarus, the deep Sernf- 
Thal, or Klein-Thai , diverges to the left from the Linththal. The 
high-road gradually ascends the N. slope. Beyond {V/2 M.) Wart 
is a pretty waterfall on the left ; fine retrospective view of the 
Glarnisch. 3 M. Engl {26i0'; pop. 1148; *Sonne), with cotton- 
mills, at the mouth of the narrow Miihlehach-Thal. (Passage of 
the Widerstein-Furkel to the Murgthal, see p. 45.) The slate- 
quarries (Plattenherge) on the left bank of the Sernf are noted for 
their fossil flsh. From (2 M.) Matt (2710') a path to the N. E. 
leads in 6 hrs. through the Krauchlhal and over the Rieseten Pass 
(6644') to Weisstannen (p. 46). 

3 M. (91/2 M. from Schwanden) Elm (3215' ; *J. Elmer ; Zentner). 
the highest village in the valley, in a fine basin encircled by snow- 
mountains, was partly destroyed by a landslip on 11th Sept., 1881. 

From the Tschmgelberg, above the slate -quarries to the S.E. of the 
village, between the Risikopf and the Gelbe Kopf, a rock about 1300' in 
breadth, 320' in thickness, and 800' in height, became detached and was 
precipitated over a steep slope, with a gradient of about 70:100, into the 
valley 1480' below, covering it for a distance of 1 M. with an enormous 
mass of debris, upwards of 225 acres in area. Nearly the whole VnUr- 
thal, the garden of the village, with 22 dwelling-houses and 57 other 
buildings, was destroyed; 114 persons perished; and the damage was 
estimated at nearly I'/z million fr. The church bears a memorial tablet 



68 Route 22. SEGNES PASS. 

recording the names of the deceased. Below the village a road crosses 
the Sernf by a new iron bridge and intersects the scene of the landslip, 
where cultivation is beginning to reappear. 

Ascents (for experts only; guides Heinrich and Peter Elmer, see p. 62). 
The Karpfstock (9180'), by the Wichlen-Alp, 6 hrs. (laborious, but, with 
good guides, free from danger). — The Yorab (9925'), by the Sether Fiirka 
(see below), 7-8 hrs. — The JJausslock (10,340'), the Piz Segnes (10,230'), 
and the Saurenstock (10,025') are more difficult. 

Passes. To Flims over the Segnes Pass, 8 hrs., fatiguing, but 
interesting (guide, 18 fr., advisable even for experts as far as the other side 
of the snow-field beyond the pass). We cross the Sernf, amidst the re- 
mains of the landslip , and the Raminhach , and ascend the wild gorge 
of the TscMiigelnbach, which forms several picturesque falls, to the Tschin- 
(jeln-Alp. We then mount steep grassy and stony slopes to the (5 hrs.) 
Segnes Pass (8615') , lying to the S.W. of the Piz Segnes (10,230'). To 
the right rise the jagged Tschingelhbnier or Mannen (9452 ') , perforated by 
the Martinsloch (8648'), a hole through which the sun shines on the 
church of Elm twice a year. Descent over a slope of snow, and then over 
ddbris; to the left is the Segnes Glacier, between the Piz Segnes and the 
Trinserhorn (9935'). The path , which now improves , descends through 
pastures, wood, and meadows , in view of the Vorder-Rheinthal and its 
mountains, to (3 hrs.) Flims (p. 358). 

To Llanz ovee the Panixee Pass, 9 hrs. (guide 18 fr.), fatiguing 
and unattractive, but historically famous for Suvorofi^'s retreat of 5th-10th 
Oct., 1799 (comp. p. 65). A road ascends on the left bank of the Sernf 
from Elm by Hinter-Sleinibach to the (40 min.) Erbsevhriicke ; 25 min. farther 
up, at Wallenbrugg, we cross the Sernf and ascend by a steep, rugged path 
to the chalets of the Jatzalp (Im Loch, 4822'; Ober- Staff el , 5587'). We 
next cross the Walenboden, pass the Rvikenkopf, traverse a patch of snow 
(with a small tarn on the left), and reach the (SVz hrs.) Panixer Pass 
(Cuolm da Pignieu; 7907'), with its refuge-hut. On the right rises the 
Hausstock (see above), with t\i& Meer-Glacier- Descent over the Meer-Alp and 
the wild Eanasca-Alp to (2V2 hrs.) Panix (4334'; Panixer Pass Inn), and via 
Ruis to (2 hrs.) llanz (p. 359). — Another route, fatiguing and uninteresting, 
crosses the Sether Furka (8565'). It diverges from the Panix route to the 
left, by the tarn above mentioned, and ascends steeply to the pass. De- 
scent by the Ruscheiner Alp and the Sether Tobel to (9 hrs.) llanz (p. 359). 

To Weisstannen by the Foo Pass, 7 hrs., rather rough (guide 15 fr.). 
We ascend the right bank of the Raminbach, chiefly through wood, to the 
Ramin-Alp, and past the chalets of Matt (6179'), to the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass, 
or Ramin Pass (7333'); then descend by the Foo-Alp and the Unter-Siez- 
Alp (4377') to the Seez Valley and (3 hrs.) Weisstannen (p. 46 ; 3 hrs. from Mels). 

To Vattis over the Saedona Pass, 10-11 hrs., difficult, and rarely 
traversed (guide 30 fr.). From the Segnes Pass (see above) we clamber 
round the abrupt W. side of the Piz Segnes to the Sauren Glacier and 
the Sardona Pass (about 9680'), between the Piz Segnes and the Saurenstock 
(10,025'). Very steep descent to the Segnes Glacier, which we cross to the 
Sardona Glacier; then a rugged descent to the Sardona-Alp (5735'), in the 
Kalfeuser-Thal, 3 hrs. above Vattis (p. 344). — Another difficult and labo- 
rious pass from Elm to Vattis (9-10 hrs.) is the Scheibe Pass, between the 
Saurenstock and the Grosse Scheibe (9620'). — Over the Muttenthaler 
Geat, lO-Uhrs. to Vattis, less difficult, but rough and fatiguing (guide25fr.). 
From the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass (see above) we first descend to the Obere 
Foo-Alp, then ascend to the right through the Muttenthal to the basin of 
the Haibiitzli, with a small tarn (7693'), and thence to the (3 hrs.) Mutten- 
thaler Grat (about 8200'). Rough descent over the Malanser Alp to (2 hrs.) 
St. Martin (4433') in the Kalfetiser Thai and (2 hrs.) Vattis (p. 344). 

To Linththal, by the Richetli Pass (7428'), 8 hrs., not difficult ; 'View 
of the Hausstock, Vorab, and Glarnisch. Descent by the Durnachthal. 



II. LAKE OF LUCERNE AND ENVIRONS. 
THE ST. OOTTHARD. 



23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 70 

i. Railway Journey 70 

ii. From Zurich to Zug via Horgen 72 

Stalactite Caverns in the Holle, 72. 

24. Lucerne 73 

25. Lake of Lucerne 77 

From Beckenried to Seelisberg, 79. — Kurhaus Seelis- 
berg. Seelisberger Kulm, 80. — Morschacb, Axenfels, 
Axenstein, Stoos, Frohnalpstock , 82. — Riemenatalden- 
thal. Rophaien. Rossstock. Kaiserstock, 83. — ^ Isenthal, 
82. — Isenthal. Uri-Rothstock, 83, 84. 

26. The Rlgi 84 

27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus 91 

Biirgenstock, 91. — From Stansstad to Sarnen, 92. 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 94 

i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug 94 

ii. From Lucerne to Kiissnach and Arth 95 

29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and Brun- 

nen 96 

Ascent of the Gottschalkenberg from Biberbruck, 96. — 
From Rapperswyl to Einsiedeln : the Etzel, 96. — From 
Sattel to Mgeri and to Goldau, 98. — From Einsiedeln to 
Schwyz, crossing the Hacken or the Iberger Egg, 98, 99. 

30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . 99 

The Rossberg, 100.— The Mythen, 101. — Schiichenthal; 
Rossstock; Erstfelder Thai, 102. — Bristenstock; Hohe 
Faulen, 103. — The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to 
Goschenen, 103. — From Airolo through the Val Piora 
to S. Maria and Disentis, 105. 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . 108 

The Goschenen Valley. Passes to Realp,theTrift Glacier, 
andthe Steinalp, 108. — The Fleckistock, 109. — The Badus 
or Six Madun ; the Gurschenstock and Gamsstock, 110. 

— Lucendro Lake, 111. — The Pizzo Centrale; Prosa ; 
Fibbia ; Piz Lucendro -, Sorescia, 111. — From the St. Gott- 
hard over the Orsino Pass to Realp, and over the Lecki 
Pass to the Furka, 112. 

32. The Maderaner Thai 112 

Hiifi Glacier; Diissistock; Oberalpstock, etc., 113. — 
Clariden Pass; Hiifi Pass; Kammliliicke; Ruchkehlen 
Pass ; Scheerhorn - Griggeli Pass ; Brunni Pass, 114. 

33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . 114 

From Realp over the Cavanna Pass to the Val Bedretto, 
115. — Tiefengletscher; Tiefensattel ; Winterliicke. 115. 

— Furkahorn ; Jluttenhorn ; Galenstock. From the Furka 
across the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice, 116. 

34. From Lucerne to Altdorf via Stans and Engelberg. 

The Surenen Pass 116 

Stanser Horn ; Euochser Horn, 117. — Excursions from 



70 Route 23. AFFOLTERN. From Zurich 



Engelberg: Oberscliwand;TatschbachFalI;Rigithalstock; 
Engelberg-Rothstnck ; llri-Rothstock ; Spannort; Titlis, 
118, 119. — FromKngelberg to Erstfeld over the Spannort- 
joch or the Schlossberg-Liicke; to Wasen over the Gras- 
sen Pass; to the Steinalp over the Wendenjoch, 119. 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and 

Brienz (Interlaken) 120 

Schwendi-Kaltbad; the Melchthal ; over the Storregg or 
the .luchli to Engelberg; over the Tannenalp to the 
Engstlenalp ; and over the Laubergrat to Meiringen, 121, 
122. — From Briinig to Meiringen, 123. 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 123 

From the Engstlenalp to the Melchthal; Erzegg; Hohen- 
stollen, 124. — Ascent of the Titlis from the Engstlenalp, 
124. — From the Engstlenalp over the Siitteli to the 
Gadmenthal, 124. 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 125 

Triftthal. Excursions from the Trifthiitte (Dammastock, 
etc.); over the Triftlimmi to the Rhone Glacier; Furt- 
v^ang-Sattel and Steinlimmi, 126, 126. — From the 
Stein Inn over the Sustenlimmi to the Goschenenalp ; 
Brunnenstock, 126. 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal . . 127 

Schwarzenberg; Bramegg Route ; Sehimberger Bad, 127. 
— The Napf. Ascent of the Brienzer Rothhorn from 
Schiipfheim, 128. — Ruttihubelbad, 129. 

39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (^Aarau). The 'Seethal' 
Railway 129 

Excursions from Hochdorf: Hohenrain ; Horben; Ober- 
reinach, etc., 129, 130. — From Hitzkirch to Wohlen 
by Fahrv?angen, 130. — From Beinwyl to Reinach and 
Menzikon; Hombcrg, 130. — From Bonisv^yl to Fahr- 
wangen ; Brestenberg, 130. 



23. From Ziirich to Zug and Lucerne. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 76. 

1. Railway Journey. 

411/-.! M. Railway to Zug in 11/2 hr. (4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c.) ; to 
Lucerne in 2'/3 hrs. (7 fr., 4fr. 90, 3 fr. 50c. ; return-tickets at reduced rates). 

On leaving the station the train crosses the Sihl, and at (^21/2 M.) 
Altstetten diverges from the Bale line (p. 19). To the left rises the 
long Uetliberg (p. 38), which the line skirts in a wide curve. To 
the right the pretty valley of the Limmat. 51/2 M. JJrdorf; 8 M. 
Birmensdorf. We now follow the pleasant Reppisch-Thal. To the 
left the hotel on the Uetliberg. The train ascends through a tunnel 
under the Ettenberg to (12 M.) Bonstetten-Wettsivyl (1805')- To 
the right the Bernese Alps and Pilatus ; and to the left, farther on, 
the Engelberg Alps, with the Uri-Rothstock and the Titlis, become 
visible. 14 M. Hedinyen; I51/2 M. Affoltern (Lowe). To the left 
rises the Aeugster Berg (2723'), at the foot of which lie Aeugst and 
the Baths of Wengi. — 18 M. Mettmenstettm (1550'). 



to Lucerne. ZUG. 23. Route. 71 

Diligence daily in 50 rain, to Hausen (1980'; ~Ldwe), at the W. base 
of the Albis (p. 38J; near it the hydropathic Kurhaus of Albisbninn. Near 
Kappel, IV2 M. to the S., on the road to Baar (p. 72), Zwingli was slain 
on 11th Oct. 1531, in battle against the Eom. Cath. cantons (comp. p. 37). 

20 M. Knonau (Adler). Near Zug we cross the Lorze, which 
descends from the Aegeri-See (p. 98). 

241/2 M. Zug (1385'; *Hirsch, R. 2-3, D., incl. wiue, 3, 
pens. 4 fr. , R. extra; Bellevue; *Ochs; Falk; Krone; *Lbwe, 
on the lake, R., L., & A. 2 fr. 70 c, B. 1 fr., good beer in 
the restaurant; Linde ; *H6tel Bahnhof, with garden-restaurant; 
*Pens. Guggithal, on the road to Felsenegg), the capital of the 
smallest Swiss canton, with 5118 inhab., lies on the lake of that 
name. The upper town still retains a quaint and mediaeval 
appearance, with its walls, towers, and substantial mansions. In 
the ancient Rathhaus (now a restaurant) is a handsome late-Gothic 
apartment containing a museum of wood-carvings and other antiqui- 
ties of Zug. The Church of the Capuchins contains an Entombment 
by Calvaert. In the Arsenal are preserved ancient captured 
weapons and flags , and a scarf stained with the blood of its bearer 
Peter Collin, who fell at Arbedo in 1422. At the S. end of the 
town, on the lake, is the Hospital, built in 1854. Handsome new 
Government Buildings in the Renaissance style. Part of the 'Vor- 
stadt' was undermined by the lake on July 5th, 1887. 

On the W. slope of the Zuger Berg, IV2 hr. from Zug (good road ; om- 
nibus from the station at 11 and 6; fare 2'/2fr.), are the "Kurhaus Felsenegg 
(3130'; pens. 7-8 fr. ; English Church Service in summer), with a fine view 
towards the W., and (5 min. to the X.) the Kurhaus Schonfels (R. l'/2-3, 
pens. 71/2-9 fr.), with pleasant grounds, also commanding a beautiful view. 
This spot is recommended for a prolonged stay; pleasant wood-walks. The 
(','4 hr.) "Hochwacht (3250'), '/< M. to the N.E., commands a complete sur- 
vey of the Alpine chain; below us, to the E., lies the Lake of jEgeri (p. 98). 
— Pretty walks also to the (20 min.) Hiingigiitsch (2400'; view interrupted 
by trees) and the (V2 hr.) Borbachgiitsch (3070'), which affords a charming 
view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne and the Rigi. — At Menzingen in 
the pretty valley of the Lorze, 41/2 M. to the E. of Zug (diligence twice daily), 
is the ''Schonbrunn Hydropathic (2210'), well fitted up. In the vicinity are 
the interesting ^Stalactite Caverns in the Holle (p. 72; carriage with one 
horse from Zug via Baar, 4V2 M., and back, 6 fr. and fee; footpath via 
Thctlacker, 3 M.). 

The train backs out of the station and skirts the flat N. bank of 
the Lake of Zug (p. 94), crosses the Lorze near its influx into the 
lake, and recrosses it at its efflux near (27^/2 M.) Cham ('*i?a6e^, a vil- 
lage with a slender zinc-covered church-tower and a large manufactory 
of coTidensed milk. Fine view of Zug to the left. On the hill above 
Zug are the summer-resorts just mentioned ; in the middle distance 
rises the Rigi; and to the right are the Stanser Horn, the Engelberg 
Alps, and Pllatus. Beyond (31 M.) Rothkreuz (1410'; Rail. Re- 
staurant'), the junction of the St. Gotthard(p. 99) and the Muri and 
Aarau (p, 21) lines, we enter the valley of the Reuss. 33 M. Oisi- 
kon. 'Through an opening to the left wc survey the Rigi, from the 
Kulm to the Rothstock. 37 M. Ebikon. To the right rises the wooded 
Ilundsriicken, The train skirts the Rothsee, 1 1/2 M. long, and crosses 



72 Route 23. RAAR. 

tlie Reuss by a bridge 178 yds. long. The line now unites with tlic 
Swiss Central (p. 21) and the Lucerne and Bern lines (p. 127), and 
finally passes through a tunnel under the Gutsch (p. 76). 
41 '/o M. Lucerne, see p. 73. 

ii. From Ziiricli to Zug vi& Horgen. 

Railway from Zurich to (11 M.) Horffen, '/z I"", (steamer in l^/i hr., 
see p. 39). Post Omnibus daily (8.50 a. m.J from Horgen to (12'/z M.) Zug 
in 2 hrs. 35 min.; carr. with one horse in 2 hrs., 12 fr. 

To Horgen (1394'), see p. 40. The road ascends in windings, 
passing the Kurhaus Bocken, to (3 M.) Hauriithi, where, by tlie 
finger-post, it joins the road from Wadenswyl. Several fine views 
of the lake, the Sentis, Speer, Curfirsten, and the Glarus Mts. 
About 1/2 ^- farther on we reach the saddle of the hill (2245'), 
and, at the top of the hill, the (1 M.) Inn Zum Moryenthal, at Hirzel. 
We then descend gradually into the valley of the iSi/tZ, which sep- 
arates the cantons of Ziirich and Zug. The (2 M.) covered Sihl- 
Brucke (1745'; *Krone, good wine) replaces one destroyed during 
the war of the Separate League in 1847. 

Pedestrians should take the road from Horgen over the Horger Egg 
to the Sihlbriicke (41/2 M.), which shortens the route by 2 M., and affords 
far finer views. !Near (2 M.) Wydenbach rises the *Zimmerberg (2535'), 
'/4 hr. to the right, with a beautiful view of the Lake of Zurich, the sombre 
valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, the Alps, and particularly the Mythen, 
the Rigi, and Pilatus. About ^|^ M. beyond Wydenbach the road reaches the 
Hirzclhohe (2415' ; Inn), its highest point, with another fine prospect. We 
join the high-road near the Sihlbriicke. 

The Zug road leads through an undulating tract, passing on 
the left the wooded hill of the Baarburg (2180'). Beyond the wood 
(2 M.) we obtain a view of Baar, the Lake of Zug, the Rigi, and 
Pilatus. To the left, 74^- farther on, on the Lorze, which we cross, 
is a large cotton-factory. The Rigi and Pilatus now appear in all 
their grandeur. At (IV4 M.) Baar (1465'; Linden/to/", moderate; 
Krone; Sennhof; RossU) there is another large mill. A curious 
custom, not unknown in other parts of Switzerland (comp. p. 110), 
prevails here. On the occasional opening of the graves the skulls 
are conveyed by the relatives of the deceased to the charnel-house, 
where they are kept in symmetrical piles. 

In the picturesquely wooded Lorzethal, 2 M. to the E. of Baar, are 
the curious "Stalactite Caverns in the JJolle, rendered accessible some 
years ago by the proprietor. Dr. Schmid. Of the many fine and curiously 
shaped stalactitic formations, the most remarkable are the silicious 
masses resembling clusters of grapes, which were formed below the level 
of the water that at one time occupied the caverns. The carriage-road to 
the caverns leads from the above-mentioned cotton-factory along the left 
bank of the Lorze to (172 M.) a bridge opposite the junction of the Hiill- 
hach, near which, on the right bank of the Lorze, is the Restaurant zur 
Hiill. The entrance to the caverns is in a massive cliff of tufa, '/i M- 
to the S., on the same side of the river (key and guide at the restaurant; 
adm. daily from 8 a.m.. Sun. from 1 p.m., 1 fr., parties 50c. each person). 
From the caverns to Schonbrunn (p. 71), I'/i M. ; to Zug, via the Tobel- 
briicke and Thalarhr, 3 M. (comp. p. 71). 

From Baar we continue straight on to (2^2 M.) Zug, see p. 71, 



73 



24. Lncerne. 



Railway Station (PI. D, E, 4) on the left bank of the lake. The steam- 
boats to Fluelen generally touch here after leaving the Schweizerhof Quay ; 
those from Fluelen touch first at the station, and then at the quay. 

Hotels. "ScHWEizEEHOF (PI. a; D, E, 2), a spacious hotel admirably 
fitted up, with two 'depemlances', and *Ldzernek Hop (PI. b; E, 2), both on 
the Schweizerhof Quay, R., L., & A. from 5, B. IV2, D. 4'/2-5, music '/zfr.; 
'Hotel National (PI. c; E, F, 2), on the Quai National, R., L., & A. from 6, 
D. 5fr. ; Hotel -Pension Beadrivage (PI. d; F, 2) and 'Hotel de l'Edbope, 
both on the lake, in the Halden-Strasse ; 'Englischer Hof (PI. el; 
*SCHWAN (PI. f), R., L., (t A. 41/2-51/2, D. 41/2 fr. ; -Hotel du Rigi (PI. g) 
R., L., & A. 3, B. IV2, D. 3 fr. (these three on the lake, on the right bank); 
'Hotel dd Lac (PI. h; D, 4), on the left bank of the Reuss, with garden 
and bath-house, R., L., & A. from 4, D., incl. wine, 31/2, pens. 7V2-9 fr. ; 
'Hotel St. Gotthaed (PI. i), with restaurant, near the station, R., L., & A. 
31/2-41/2, B. 11/2, D. 31/2 fr. ; -Wage (Balances, PI. k ; C, 3), near the third 
bridge over the Reuss, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. 11/2, D. 31/2, pens. 7-9 fr. — 
Inexpensive: 'Engel (PI. 1; B, 3), R. & A. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; *Adler (PI. m; 
C, 3), R. 11/2 fr.; 'Weisses ROssli (P). n; C, 3), R. & A. 2'/2, B. I'/j, D. 
incl. wine 3'/2 fr. ; "Hotel de la Poste (PL o ; C, 4) ; Hotel des Alpes 
(PI. p; D, 2), R. & A. 21/2-3 fr. ; 'Hotel Wolder, Kappelgasse; Mohr 
(PI. u; D, 3j; HiRSCH (PI. q; C, 3); 'Krone (PI. r; C, 3); 'Weisses Kreuz 
(PI. s; D, 3j; 'Wilder Mann (PI. t; C, 4), R. & A. 2-2i/2fF., B. 1 fr. 20 c. ; 
'Raben ; Pfistern; "Metzgeen; *Sonne, on the lake. 

Pensions. -Kavfmann ; Waller & Schloss O'segnet-MaU; "Villa G'segnet- 
Matl (Oelpke) ;' Tivoli [Ivike.-hiii'iis^ see below); farther on, *<See6i/7'g' (steam- 
boat-station ; p. 95). All these are on the Kiissnach road, close to the lake. 
"Belvedere., above Tivoli (pens. 5-7 fr.) ; Faller, above Beaurivage ; Hirschi/, 
opposite the Kursaal; "JVeu-Sc/iiceizerlians (Kost), Felsherg ( Pielzker), both 
loftily situated; -All-Scfiweizerhaus d- Pension Anglaise:, Kost - HafHger , 
Villa Deschwanden, Bramberg 683 d; Stacker, near the Musegg-Str. : II6t.- 
Pens. Giitsck (D. 31/2, pens. 8 fr.) and '-Pens. TVallis, on the GUtsch (p. 76), 
with charming view; ''Suter ("pens. 5-6 fr.), on the hill oi Gibraltar I^-IQ):, 
Schonau, on the Meggen road, 2 M. from Lucerne. Still higher, to the S. of 
Lucerne (railway to Kriens in 12 min., thence an ascent of 3/4 hr. ; one-horse 
carr. from Lucerne 12 fr. ; comp. p. 76), 'X«r?iaa« Sonnenherg, with pleasant 
grounds and a fine view (7 fr. per day). Pens. Stntz, see p. 91. 

Restaurants. Kursaal, high charges ; St. GottJiard, near the station, see 
above; Ca/<! du Thialre and Alpenclub, on the Reuss; "Sladlhof (PI. G, 2, 3), 
with garden (band frequently); Cafi du Lac, on the Schweizerhof Quay; 
Hungaria (Hungarian wines); Cafi des Alpes (with a few bedrooms), on 
the Schweizerhof Quay. — Beer. -Muth , at the Weggis Gate ; Krein (see 
above) ; Seidenhof , on the left bank of the Reuss ; Lowengarten , near the 
Lion Monument. — Confectioner. Berger, near the Stadthof. 

Eursaal on the Quai National (PI. F, 2), with reading, concert, and 
ball-rooms, restaurant, theatre, and garden. Band daily, 4-5 30 p.m. Ad- 
mission 50 c, for the day 1 fr. — Theatre (French operettas): stalls 4, 
pit and balcony 2 fr. Companj' not altogether select. 

Baths in "the lake by the Quai National, above the Kursaal ; swim 
ming 25, separate bath 50 c. — • Lake-baths also near the Tivoli (see above). 
Baths in the Reuss below the town, with swimming-basin. Warm baths 
at Felder-Lehmann's, Spreuer-Briicke. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 4), in the Bahnhofs-Platz.— Steam- 
boats, see pp. 77, 91, 95. 

Cabs. For 1/4 hr. , 1-2 pers. 80 c., 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. (to or from the 
Station 1 or 2 fr.); for 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 3fr. 60 c. ; each box 30 c. — To 
Seeburg I1/2 or 2 fr. ; Meggen 31/2 or 5fr. ; Kiissnach 81/2 or 9 fr. — From 
10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. 

Rowing Boats, usually 75 c. per hr. ; for each boatman 75 c. 

Gold and Silver Work, antique furniture, tapestry, etc., at /. Bossard's 
in the Hirschen-Platz (PI. C, 3). 



74 Route '2J. LUCERNE. Bridges. 

English Church Service iu the Protestant Church in summer. Presby- 
terian Service in the Maria-Hilf Church, at 11 and 6. 

Lucerne (1437'; pop. 20,308), the capital of the canton of 
that name which joined the original cantons in 1332, lies pictur- 
esquely on the Lake of Lucerne or Vierwaldstatter See, at tlie 
efflux of the Reuss. It is enclosed by well-preserved walls with 
nine watch-towers, erected in 1385, while its amphitheatrical sit- 
uation surrounded by low hills , facing the Rigi and Pilatus 
and the snow-clad Alps of Uri and Engelberg, is one of surpassing 
beauty. 

The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the 
swiftness of a torrent. Its banks are connected by four bridges. 
The highest, the iron Seebriicke (PI. D, 3), erected in 1869-70, 
500' long and 50' wide, crosses from the town to the railway-station, 
and affords an excellent view of the town and the lake. The two 
interesting mediaeval bridges, the Kapellbriicke (PI. D, 3) and 
the Spreuerbriicke or MuMenbrucke (PI. B, C, 3), are both carried 
obliquely across the stream. Each is covered with a roof, which, 
in the case of the former, is painted with 154 scenes from the lives 
of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the patron-saints of Lucerne, 
and from Swiss history; and in the case of the latter, with a Dance 
of Death. The paintings all date from the 18th century. Adjoining 
the Kapellbriicke, in the middle of the river, rises the old Wasser- 
thiu-m (PI. D , 3) , containing the admirably arranged Municipal 
Archives. According to tradition, this building was once a lighthouse 
(lucerna), and gave its name to the town. St. Peter's Chapel, on 
the N. bank, has four modern altar-pieces by Deschwanden, a na- 
tive of Stans (p. 117). — The Reuss and the lake are enlivened 
with swans and flocks of half-tame waterfowl (Fulica atra; black, 
with white heads). 

The *Scliweizerhof Quay (PI. D, E, 2), constructed in 1852, 
with its fine avenue of chestnuts, extends in front of the large 
hotels along the N. bank of the lake and affords a delightful view. 
The stone indicator on a projecting platform in the middle of the 
Schweizerhof Quay, points out the chief places in the environs. 

View. To the left the liigi Group ; to the left is the Kulm with the 
hotels; on the saddle between the Kulm and the Rothslock is the Stafl'cl 
Inn ; more to the right the Schild , the Dosseii , and the isolated VHznauer 
Stock. To the left of the Rigi, above the hills by the lake, rises the 
peak of the Rossberg; to the right of the Vitznauer Stock, in the distance, 
are the singularly indented peaks of the Ross-Stock Chain; then the A'ieder- 
Bauen or Seclisberger Kulm and the Ober- Bauen ; nearer are the dark 
BUrgenstock, with its hotel, and the Buochser Horn; to the left and right 
of the latter tower the Engelberg Alps, the last to the right being the Titlis ; 
farther to the right the Stanserliorn, the mountains of Kerns and Sachseln, 
and to the extreme right I'ilalu.i. 

At the E. end of the quay, opposite the handsome new office of 
the St. Gotthard Railway, is a pavilion containing an interesting 
*Relief of the Jungfrau Group, by Simon (adm. in July and Aug. 
1 fr, , in June and Sept. 50 c). — The continuation of the quay 



Lion of Lucerne. LUCERNE. '24. Route. 75 

towards the E., on which is the Kursaal (p. 73), is known as the 
Quai National (PI. E, F, 2). 

On rising ground overlooking the quay is the *Hofkirclie , or 
Stiftskirche (PI. E, F, 2), restored in the 16th cent., with two 
slender towers erected about 1506. It contains a carved pulpit, 
and stalls of the 16th cent., stained-glass windows, and two side- 
altars with gilded reliefs in carved wood, that on the N. side 
representing the death of the Virgin (15th cent.). The Churchyard 
contains some good monuments. In the enclosing arcades are sev- 
eral frescoes by Deschwanden. 

We next pass, in the wide Ziiricher-Strasse, Meyer's Diorama 
of the Rigi and Pilatus (PI. D, E, 2; adm. 1 or i^/^ fr., interesting) 
and (on the right) SUmffers Museum of stuffed Alpine animals (PI. 
E, 1 ; adm. 1 fr.), and in 5 min. reach the famous *Lioii of Lucerne 
(Pl.E, 1), a most impressive work, executed in 1821 to the memory 
of 26 officers and about 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard, who fell 
in the defence of the Tuileries on 10th Aug., 1792. The dying lion 
(28' in length), reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a broken lance, 
and sheltering the Bourbon lily with its paw, is hewn out of the 
natural sandstone rock after a model (exhibited in the adjoining 
building) by the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen. Inscrip- 
tion : Helvetiorum fidei ac virtuti. Die XAug.. II et III Sept. 1792. 
Haec sunt nomina eorum, qui ne sacramenti fidem fallerent, fortissime 
pugnantes ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicorum cura cladi 
superfuerunt Duces XVI. The rock which bears the inscription and 
names of the officers is overhung with trees and creepers. A spring 
at the top flows down on one side and forms a dark pool at the base, 
surrounded by trees and shrubs. — The neighbouring Chapel (in- 
scription .• Invictis Pax) contains the escutcheons of the deceased 
officers, and the Museum, opposite the Lion, contains a diorama 
of the last struggle of the Swiss guard in the Tuileries, by Bang and 
Lorch, and an exhibition of Swiss and foreign pictures (adm. 1 fr.). 

On the N. side of the monument is the entrance to the*Gletscher- 
garten (adm. 1 fr.), a most interesting relic of the ice-period, 
with 32 holes formed by whirlpools, of different sizes (the largest 
being 26' wide and 30' deep), well-preserved 'Gletscherschliffe', 
or rocks worn by the action of the ice, etc., discovered in 1872, 
and connected by means of steps and bridges. A kiosque here 
contains Pfyffers Relief of Central Switzerland, on a scale of 5'/3 
inches to the mile, 23' long, and 13' wide; in another there is a 
small collection of relics from lake-dwellings. Adjacent is a cafe- 
restaurant. 

Many quaint and picturesque houses of the 16 -17th cent, 
are still to be seen in the crooked streets of the older parts of the 
town (PL C, D, 3). — The ancient Eathhaus (PI. C, D, 3), in the 
corn-market, dates from 1519-1605. A fresco on the tower repre- 



76 Route 24. LUCERNE. 

seiits tlie death of tlic magistrate Gundolflngen at the Battle of 
Seuipach. 

On the ground-lloor is an interesting Historical Museum (adm. 9-6, 
1 fr.)- Room 1. contains the armoury from the Arsenal, embracing weap- 
ons, flags, and trophies of the battles of the 14th cent, and of the Bur- 
gundian and Milanese wars; in the glass-case on the right are the coat of 
mail of Duke Leopold of Austria, and several banners captured by the 
townsmen at the battle of Sempaeh. A cha'^ed sword-handle (' Tellen 
sehwerf, i.e. 'TelPs sword') of the 16th cent., and the uniforms of different 
Swiss guards (in the middle of the large glass-case) should also be noticed. 
At the windows is exhibited a "Collection of Stained Glass of the 14-18th 
cent., including a series of armorial bearings of the 17th century. — Room II. 
contains the collections of the Historical Society, comprising relics of the 
pre-historic, Celtic-Roman, Germanic, and medipeval periods ; in the centre 
are Roman objects (bronze statue of Mercury; IripodJ and bridal chests 
of the 15-17th centuries. On the wall to the right, under glass, is the blue 
and white banner presented to Lucerne by Pope Julius II. 

A fine Gothic staircase leads to the first floor, on which is the 
Council Chamber , with beautiful 16th cent, carving on the ceiling and 
walls. In the ante-chamber are a number of portraits of magistrates, 
most of which are by Reinhart. 

An Art Exhibition takes place in the large hall by which we enter, 
from June 1st to Oct. 15th. 

The late-Gothic Fountain in the Weinmarkt (PI. C, 3) dates 
from 1481. — In the vicinity, in the Hirschen-Platz, is the house 
of the goldsmith Bossard (p. 73), adorned with frescoes. 

The JesTiit Church (PL C, 4) contains an altar-piece in the sec- 
ond chapel to the right, representing St. Nikolaus von der Fliie 
(p. 121), behind which the robe of the saint is preserved. 

The *Gutsch (17*22'), an eminence on the left bank of the 
Reuss, at the W. end of the town (cable-train in 3 min., every 
1/4 hr. ; fare 30, return-ticket 50 c), affords a splendid survey of 
the town , the lake , the Rigi , and the Alps of Uri , Unterwalden, 
and Engelberg. *notel and Restaurant, with wooded grounds, at the 
top. A pretty walk through the woods leads from the Giitsch to 
the (l'/2hr.) Kurhaus Sonnenberg (p. 73), whence we may descend 
to (25 min.) Kriens (see below). The S. E. spur of the Giitsch is 
called Gibraltar (pens., see p. 73). 

Another attractive point in the neighbourhood of the town is 
the *Drei Linden (1810'), to which a new road (PI. F, 1) leads in 
about 20 min. from the Hofkirche. Or we may pass the (}letscher- 
garten to the left, ascend the hill immediately to the right, and 
beyond a quarry, reach (2/4 M.) the Capuchin Convent on the We- 
semlin, where a guide-post beside the church indicates the path to 
the top. The view embraces the environs of Lucerne and the Alps, 
with the Titlis in the middle and the Finsteraarhorn and the 
Schreckhorn in the distance to the right. The town itself, however, 
is more picturesque when viewed from the Giitsch. 

Fbom Lucerke to Keiens, 2V2 M., steam-tramway in 12 min., skirt- 
ing the brawling Krienbach. — Kriens (1670' ; -Pilatus ; Linde), a considerable 
manufacturing village, is situated in a fertile valley at the N. foot of Bit. 
Pilatus. To the S., on the slope, is the chateau of Schauensee (1950'); to 
the N. the Sonnenberg (to the Kurhaus, ^4 hr. ; sec above). The road as-- 



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LAKE OF LUCERNE. 25. Route. 77 

cends the valley beyond Kriens to the Renggbach, whence a footpath leads 
through wood to (I1/4 hr.) Herrgotts-wald ('2624'; "Sonne), an inexpensive 
health-reaort in a picturesque situation, and to (1 hr.) Eigenthal (3375' ; 
Inn), another cheap health-resort (hence to Schwarzenberg, V4 hr. ; see p. 127). 
From Eigenthal a path ascends t>y the Rumligbach past the huts of 
Btichsteg and Rothstock, and finally mounts steeply to the left to (IV2-2 hrs.) 
the Briindlenalp (4985'; conip. p. 94), with the little Pilatus Lake (p. 94; 
generally dry in summer). From this point the Widder/eld (6825') may 
he ascended in IV2 hr. ; and a rough and not always distinct path leads 
round the slopes of the Widderfeld and Gemsmattli and past the Kasielen- 
alp to (11/2 hr.) the Hotel KUmsenhorn (p. 93). Neither expedition should 
be attempted without a guide. 

25. Lake of Lucerne. 

Camp, also Map, p. 84. 

Steamboat 6-7 times daily between Lucerne and Fliielen in 2s/4 hrs., 

express in 2'/4 hrs. (to Hertenstein 35 min., Weggis 45 min., Vitznau 1, 

Buochs l'/4, Beckenried I'/a, Gersau IY4, Treib 2, Brunnen 2 hrs. 5 min., 

Rtitli 2 hrs. 12 min., Sisikon 2 hrs. 10 min., Islelen 2 hrs. 20 min., Bauen 

2 hrs. 25 min., Tells-Platte 2'/2, Fliielen 2^4 hrs. ; the steamers do not all 
touch at Hertenstein, Buochs, Treib, Riitli, Sisikon, and Tells -Platte, 
while Bauen and Isleten are called at once a day only). Fare to Fliielen 

3 fr. 65 or 2 fr. 60 c. ; return-tickets available for two days at a fare and 
a half; season-tickets. still cheaper. Trunk 40-80 c, including embarcation 
and landing. All the steamers, except the quick boat at 5.30 a.m., touch 
at the railway-station of Lucerne after leaving the quay (comp. p. 73). Good 
restaurants on board. Time-tables and useful maps of the lake to be had 
at the steamboat-offices gratis. 

The **Lake of Lucerne (1435'; Vierwaldstatter See, or 'Lake of 
the Four Forest Cantons'), which is bounded by the 'forest cantons' 
of Vri, Schwyz, Unterwalden , and Lucerne, is unsurpassed in 
Switzerland, and even in Europe, in magnificence of scenery. Its 
beautiful banks are also intimately associated with those historical 
events and traditions which are so graphically depicted by Schiller 
in his William Tell. The lake is nearly cruciform in shape, the bay 
of Lucerne forming the head, the bays of Kiissnach and Alpnach 
the arms, and those of Buochs and Uri the foot. Length from Lu- 
cerne to Fliielen 23 M. , from Alpnach to Kiissnach at the ex- 
tremities of the arms I21/2M. ; width 1/2-IV4M.; greatest depth 700'. 

Rowing or Sailing Boats are seldom used by travellers, being badly 
constructed and uncomfortable. Tariff at the inns on the lake. — The wind 
on the lake is apt to change with extraordinary rapidity, and the boatmen 
declare that it blows from a different quarter as each promontory is 
rounded. The most violent is the Fohn (S. wind), which sometimes renders 
theS. bay of the lake impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, and dangerous 
even for steamboats. In fine weather the Bise QS. wind) usually prevails 
on the bay of Uri from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and a gentle S. wind during 
the rest of the day. 

Soon after leaving Lucerne the steamer affords a strikingly pic- 
turesque view of the town, with its towers and battlements. To 
the left rises the Rigi, to the right Pilatus, and facing us the 
Biirgenstock, the Buochser Horn, and the Stanser Horn ; to the left 
of Pilatus, above the hills of Sachseln, the Wetterhorn, the Schreck- 
horncr, the Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau gradually become visible, 



78 Route 25. VITZNAU. Lake of 

but the Finsteraarhorn is hidden. The small promontory to the 
left, with a pinnacled villa, is the Meygenhorn. In front of it lies 
Altstad ('old shore'), an islet planted with poplars, on which frag- 
ments of an old custom-house are still to be seen. 

Beyond the Meggenhorn the lake of Kiissnach opens to the 
left, and the bay of Stansstad to the right, and we have now reach- 
ed the central part ( ' Kreuztrichter ) of the cross formed by the lake. 
In the distance to the left, Kiissnach (p. 95) is visible ; in the fore- 
ground, Neu-Habsburg (p. 95). To the right the forest-clad Biirgen- 
stock (3720'), with its hotel and railway, rises abruptly from the 
water (see p. 91). From this part of the lake the Pilatus (p. 92) 
is very striking. Its barren, rugged peaks, seldom free from cloud 
or mist, frown grimly over the cheerful landscape , in marked con- 
trast to the Rigi on the opposite bank , the lower slopes of which 
are covered with gardens , fruit-trees , and houses , and the upper 
with woods and green pastures. 

Beyond the promontory of Tanzenberg , in a small bay to the left, 
is the handsome Pension Hertenstein (9-10 fr.) ; facing us, in the 
distance, peeps the double-peaked Scheerhorn (p. 114). Stat. Herten- 
stein (Pens. Hertenstein, dependauce of the above, and reached 
cither on foot through the park in 10, or by boat in 5 min.). Then — 

Weggis — Hotels. =H6t.-Pens. du Lac, pens. 6-S fr.; *Lowe, R. 2, 
D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. ; 'Post, at the steamboat-quay, small; -Pens. Belve- 
dere & Villa KOhler, with garden, pens, from 6 fr. ; 'Hot. -Pens. Belle- 
vuE, finely situated 84 M. to the W., 9-10 fr., adapted for a stay of some 
time; Hot. -Pens. Pakadies. 

Weggis, a thriving village in a very sheltered situation, fre- 
quented as a health-resort , was formerly the usual landing-place 
for the Rigi (comp. pp. 85, 87). 

A road to the N. leads to (2 M. ; or a path to the right, passing the 
church, in V2 br.) Greppen (p. 95). Between the road and the path (which 
ascends for ','4 hr. at the schoolhouse of Weggis) rises the Rigiblick, a 
grassy hill affording a fine survey of the lake. — Beautiful walk to the PI, 
by the road skirting the lake, to the charmingly situated LUtzelau (Pens., 
5 fr.) and (3 M.) Yittnau. A new road leads on from Vitznau by the 
Ohere Kase (fine view of the lake) to (1 hr.) Gersau and past the Kindli- 
mord Chapel (p. 79) to (i'/^ hr.) Brunnen. 

Nearing Vitznau, we observe on the hillside to the left the rail- 
way-bridge across the Schnurtobel (p. 86), and high above it the 
Hotel Rigi-First (p. 90). 

Vitznau (* Hotel ^ Restaurant Rigibahn # Pension Kohler, R., 
L., & A. 31/2, B. 11/4, pens. 6-7 fr.; * Hotel-Pension Rigi, R. 2-21/2, 
D. 3, pens. 5-7 fr. ; * Hotel-Pension Pfyffer, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Pension 
Zimmermann zum Kreuz), prettily situated at the base of the Vitz- 
nauer Stock (p. 79), is the terminus of the Rigi Railway (p. 85). 
High above the village rises the precipitous Rothfluh, with the Wal- 
disbalm, a stalactite grotto 330 yds. long (difficult of access). 

Beyond Vitznau two rocky promontories, aptly called the Nasen 
(noses), and perhaps once united, project far into the lake, apparently 
terminating it , the one being a spur of the Rigi , the other of 



Lucerne. GERSAU. 25. Rotite. 79 

the Burgenstock (p. 91). Beyond the E. Nase the snowy pyramid 
of the Todi (p. 63), and more to the left, ahove the Pragel, the 
Glarnisch (p. 66) become visible. Beyond this strait the lake is 
called the Buochser See, fromBtiochs (*Krone; Hirsch; *Restaura'nt 
Kreuzgdrten), a village to the right, which was burned down by 
the French in 1798. Above Buochs rise the Buochser Horn (p. 117) 
and the E. slopes of the Biirgenstock. Diligence to Stans (p. 117) 
thrice daily in 2/4 hr. Between Buochs and Beckenried (pretty walk 
of 3/4 hr.) extensive operations have been carried out to regulate the 
torrents descending from the Buochser Horn and the Schwalmis. 

Beckenried or Beggenried (*Sonne, pens, from 6 fr.; *Mond, 
R. & B. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr. ; *Nidwaldner Eof, pens. 6-8 fr. ; 
AdLer), on the S. bank, where the delegates from the Four Forest 
Cantons used to assemble. (There are two piers here : one near the 
'Sonne' for the steamers to Fliielen , the other by the 'Mond' for 
those to Lucerne.) In front of the church rises a fine old walnut- 
tree. In the neighbourhood are several cement-factories and the 
picturesque Riseten Waterfall. 

One-horse carriage to Engelberg (p. 118) 18 fr., two-horse 30 fr. (from 
Buochs 15 or 25 fr.); to Stans 6 or 12, Stansstad 8 or 15, Alpnach 11 or 
18, Grafenort 12 or 20, Seelisberg 13 or 25, Schonegg 6 or 12 fr., and fee. 

Fkom Beckenkied to Seelisbekg (23/4 hrs.). The road leads by the 
P/4 hr.) charmingly situated "Pension Schonegg (water and whey-cure, pens. 
6 fr.) to (1/4 hr.) the village of Emmellen (2590'; Post, Engel, both well 
spoken of; Stern; pens, at all three 5 fr.); then through a somewhat 
monotonous dale between the Stutzberg and Niederhauen (p. 80) past the 
picturesque Seeli to the (13/4 hr.) Kurhaus Seelisberg (p. 80). 

On the opposite bank, on a fertile strip of land between the 
Vitznauer Stock and the Hochfluh, lies the pretty village of Gersau 
(*H6t.-Pens. MiiUer, R. 2-4, D. 31/2, pens. from9fr. ; * Gersauer Hof ; 
Hirsch ; Sonne ; *Zur Ilge, plain), in the midst of orchards, with 
its broad -eaved cottages scattered over the hillside. It was an 
independent canton down to 1817, when it was annexed to Canton 
Schwyz. The village, being protected from cold winds, is a resort 
of invalids. In the ravine behind it is a silk-spinning mill , and 
on the mountain above is the Rigi-Scheidegg Hotel (p. 90). 

The ascent of the ~Rigi- Hochfluh (5555'; in 3-3'/2 hrs.) from Gersau 
along the Grat and via the Ziristock-Alp is very attractive. The last part 
of the route has been improved (see p. 90). Thence to the Scheidegg, 
IV2-2 hrs. — The Vilznauer Stock (4770') may be ascended in 2'/2 hrs. 
from Gersau or Vitznau via Ober-Urmi; the last '/z hr's. climb is toilsome. 
— From Gersau to (4'/2 M.) Brunnen (p. 81) a beautiful walk by the road 
skirting the lake. 

The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau is called Kind- 
Umord ('infanticide') from the tradition that a poor fiddler killed 
his starving child here by dashing it against the rock indicated by a 
black cross. To the E. rise the bare peaks of the two Mythen, at the 
base of which, 8 M. inland, lies Schwyz (p. 100); nearer is the church 
of Ingenbohl, and in the distance to the right the Achselberg or Achs- 
lenstock (7057'), with its crown of rocks resembling a castle. 

The steamer now crosses to Treib (/n/i, rustic), in Canton Uri, 



80 Route 25. SEELISBERG. Lake of 

at the loot of the precipitous Sonnenberg, the landing-place for the 
village of Seelisberg(2628'; *H6t. -Pens. Bellevue; Pens. Aschwanden, 
behind the church, 5 fr., unpretending; Pens. Lowen) on the hill 
above, to which a road leads in l'/4hr. through the orchards of 
FoUiyen (one-horse carr. 5, two-horse 10, to the Kurhaus or 12 fr., 
with fee of 2 fr.")- The more direct footpath ascends to the left 
behind the inn (1 hr. ; stony but shady most of the way). By the 
Chapel of Maria-Sonnenbery (2772'), 12 min. from the church of 
Seelisberg, is the Pension Grulli(p-lix.^^ and 100 paces farther on 
is the little Hotel Mythenstein, beside which is the *Kurhaus 
Sonnenberg-Seelisberg (three houses, with 300 beds ; pens. 10-11, 
A. 1/2 f'Oi ^ sheltered spot with pure mountain air, and a favourite 
health-resort. The terrace in front of the Kurhaus commands a 
beautiful *View of the lake of Uri lying far below and of the sur- 
rounding mountains from the Mythen to the Uri-Rothstock. 

An attractive walk may be taken to (1/2 hr.) the 'Schwendifluh, by a 
route diverging to the left from the Bauen road (guide-post) about 1^ 4 M. 
to the S. of the Kurhaus. The view from the top of the perpendicular 
rocks, the Teufelsmiinster of Schiller's 'Wilhelm Teir (Act. IV., Sc. 1), is 
highly picturesque. 

Beautiful view from the Kcinzeli (in the wood to the right at the S. 
end of the Kurhaus, V2 br.), over the lake and the plain as far as the 
Weissenstein. — About 20 min. to the S. W. of the Kurhaus lies the picturesque 
little Seelisberger See, or '■SeeW ('little lake', 2470'; with bath-house 50 c.) 
on the precipitous N. side of the "Niederbauen, or Seelisburger Kulm (6316'; 
guide 5 fr. and fee), which may be ascended from the Kurhaus in 3V2-4, 
from Beroldingen in 3, or from Emmetten in 3'/-2 hrs. (see below). Starting 
from the Kurhaus, we follow the Emmetten road towards the S.W., passing 
the Seeli ; after V2 hr. we ascend to the left towards the base of the Bauen, 
by a steep and narrow path, which is particularly uncomfortable after 
rain. Part of the ascent, which is suitable for mountaineers only, is through 
wood. — The ascent from Beroldingen (see p. 81 ; guide, Peter Bissig), via 
the Alps of Wychel, Haiti, Weid, Egglen, and Eigstlerhoden, or from Alp 
Weid, to the left, round the Kulm and passing Alp Laui, is steep, toil- 
some, and giddy (3 hrs. in all ; for adepts only). — The ascent is easier 
from Emmetten (p. 79; experts may dispense with a guide). The shortest 
way (3 hrs.) leaving the village at the S. end, follows for a short distance 
the right bank of the Kohlthal brook, and then passes between some 
houses; after 20 min. we turn to the right and follow the tolerably good 
and distinct path towards the middle of the rocky arete at the W. end 
of the mountain. From the (IV4 hr.) top we enjoy a fine view of the 
lake of Lucerne. Thence to the left along the ridge in I'/z hr. to the 
summit. — An easier route, but 1/2 l»r- longer, diverges to the left at 
the church (l'/4 hr. from the Kurhaus) and ascends the Kohlthal to a gate 
near some chalets (I hr.). After 2 min. more we cross the bridge to the 
left, and ascend by a good but steep zigzag path for 20 min., at first over 
a grassy slope, and then entering the wood to the left; 7 min., a bridge 
over a cleft; 10 min., a chalet (the path leading to the right of the hill 
with a cross). We ascend the slopes beyond the chalet to (1/4 hr.) a gate; 
for 12 min. more we walk towards the Bauen, visible to the E., and then 
descend a little to a second chalet. Farther on we pass to the right of 
a stone stable on the hill; 40 min., third chalet (rustic tavern); lastly in 
zigzags, the best route being round the Bauen, to the pole on the top in 
40 min. more. Magnificent view of the entire Lake of Lucerne from Lu- 
cerne to Fliielen, of the Uri - Rothstock, the Bristenstock, Tcidi, Scheer- 
born, Windgallen, etc., and of the Reussthal as far as Amsteg. The dis- 
tant view, however, is inferior to that from the Rigi. Early in the 
morning nearly the whole ascent from Emmetten is in shade. 



Lucerne. BRUNNEN. 25. Route. 81 

Those who desire to walk from Seelisberg to Bauen, on Lake Uri, and 
thence to cross the lake to Tell's Platte or Fliielen , go straight on from 
Sonnenberg (flnger-post ; the road to the Schwendifluh leads to the left) to 
(3/4 hr.) the little chateau of Beroldingen (beautiful view) and thence by a 
safe, though steep and rather uncomfortable path to (1/2 hr.) Bauen (Tell, 
poor). Boat from Bauen to Tellsplatte 2, Riitli 3, Fluelen 4 fr. (higher 
charges at the 'Tell'). — Path to the ('/s hr.) Riitli., see p. 82. 

Opposite Treib, on the E. bank, lies the large village of — 

Brunnen. — *Waldstatter Hof, on the lake, with baths, R., L., 
& A. 3-5, D. 4, pens. 8-11 (in spring, 7-9 fr.); *H6t.-Pens. Abler, -Hot.-Pens. 
HiRSCH, at the steamboat quay, R., L., & A. 2-3, 'pens'. 7-iO fr.; "Rossli, 
Bkdnnerhof, both near the quay, pens. 6 fr. ; 'Hot. -Pens. Aufdermaub, 
6 min. from the lake, pens. 8-10 fr. ; 'Pens. (Putsch, with fine view, un- 
pretending; "Pens. DH Lac, ','4^. to the W. of the village, with lake-baths, 
pens. 5-5'/2 fr. (R. 1^/4 fr. extra); *Hot.-Pens. Bellevue (0 fr.) and "Pens. 
Mtthenstein (13 fr.), both on the Axenstrasse, close to the lake; Pens. 
Lagler, on the Gersau road, with restaurant; Hot. Bahnhof, Euw, Rosen- 
GARTEN, 'Treihof, "Sonne, Rutli. and others, homely (pens, about 5 fr.). 
— Restaurant Zur Drossel, near the quay. 

Rowing Boats: to Treib and back with one boatman 1 fr., with two 
2 fr.; Riitli (and back) 21/2 or 4, Tellsplatte 3 or 6, Rutli and Tellsplatte 
5 or 8 fr. 

Baths (warm and lake-baths) at the Waldstatterhof (lake bath and 
towel, 50 c). — Good and cheap wood-carving at Leu(hold''s, by the steam- 
boat-pier, and at Aufderntauer''s., on the Axenstrasse. 

English Church Service at the Waldstatter llof. 

Brunnen, the port of Canton Schwyz, a station on the St. Gott- 
hard Railway (p. 101), and one of the most beautiful places on the 
lake, is partly situated in a flat valley uear the mouth of the 
Muota. The old Susthaus, or goods -magazine, is decorated with 
quaint frescoes. 

The Glitsch (1700'; Pension), a height behind Brunnen, overlooks the 
two arms of the lake and the pretty valley of Schwyz. — Shady walks 
in the neighbouring woods. — From Brunnen to Morschach a good car- 
riage-road (in shade in the morning) ascends in 1 hr. from the Axenstrasse. 
The shady footpath which diverges at the (3/4 M.) guide-post to the left 
cuts otT a long curve. 50 min. 'Hotel Axenfels (2065'; R. from 2V2, D. 4, 
pens. 7 fr.), with gardens and a fine view. A few min. farther on is 
the charmingly situated hamlet of Morschach (2155' ; ~ Hot. -Pens. Frohnalp, 
with gardens, pens, from 5 fr.; 'Pens. Bettschart., moderate; Pens. Degen- 
balm, beautifully situated on an eminence -'30' above the village, pens, from 
5 fr.). The road forks immediately behind the Hotel Frohnalp, the right 
branch leading via Ober-ScliiJnenbuch to (4i/2 M.) Schwyz. while the left 
branch ascends past the Pens. Riitlihlick (fine view) to (10 min.) the 'Grand 
Hotel Axenstein (233u'; R. 3-5. D. 4, pens. 7 fr., R. extra, less in June 
and Sept. ; English Church Service), splendidly situated on the Brcindli, 
with a magnificent 'Survey of both arms of the lake. Large covered 
promenade and beautiful shady grounds close to the hotel, containing 
numerous erratic blocks and interesting traces of glacier-action. Strangers 
are admitted to the park , but if residing at the Hotel Axenfels or at 
Morschach only by special permission. Besides the road, there is a path 
from the Giitsch to the hotel, for the most part in shade (^/^ hr.). Omni- 
buses run between the Axenstein Hotel and Brunnen (50 min., 2 fr.; one- 
horse carr. 5, two-horse 10 fr). 

The Stoos (4242'), the N. spur of the Frohnalp {'Kurhaus, well man- 
aged, R., L., & A. 31/2, B. 11/4, pens 8-12, in June and Sept., 7-10 fr. ; Pens. 
Balmberg, 5-6 fr.), another good point of view, with varied walks, is 
reached by a road (in shade in the morning for most of the way) from 
Morschach in i?ji hr. (carr. and pair from Brunnen in 2'/4 hrs., 20 fr. ; 
there and back 25-30 fr., with one horse, from Brunnen 15, ridiug-liorse 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 6 



82 Route 25. LAKE OF URI. Lake of 

10, porter 5 fr.). — The 'Frohnalpstock (6305'; small Inn. ten beds), 
I'/'i lir. to tlic S.W. of the Stoos, reached by a rough path (milk at a chalet 
halfway), aftbrds a magnificent view of the lakes of Liicerne and Zug. The 
panorama of mountains is, however, inferior to that from the Kieder- 
bauen. — A footpath leads from the Stoos to (IV'2 br.) Ried (p. 65) in the 
Muoictlhal, at first traversing meadows, but beyond the Htousbach descend- 
ing in steep zig/ags through wood to the bridge over the Muota. 

Other excursions from Brunnen : by the St. Gotthard Railway to 
(12 min.) Schwyz - Seewen, and then by boat (in 25 min. from Seewen) 
to the island of Schwanau in the Lake of Lowerz (p. lOOj; to the Muota- 
thal (p. 65) via Ibach, on the left bank of the Muota, and tiack by the right 
bank; by the Axenstrasse (see below) to Fliielen (9 M. ; best by carr., the 
road lieing shadeless after 10 a.m.; to Fliielen with one horse 8 fr.); to 
the Kindlimord Chapel (p. 79) and Gersau (p. 79); to the Riitli (see below); 
to Seelisberg (p. 80); to the Jlythen (p. 101), etc. 

At Brunnen begins the S. arm of the lake, called the Timer See 
or *Lake of TJri. The mountains now rise very abruptly , and the 
lake narrows. Lofty peaks, often snow -clad, peep through the 
gorges which open at intervals. By the sharp angle which juts into 
the lake from the W. bank rises the Mytenstein, a pyramid of 
rock, 80' high, bearing an inscription in huge gilded letters to the 
memory of Schiller, the 'Bard of Tell'. On the N. side is an in- 
scription to a young Swiss officer, who accidentally lost his life here. 
A little farther on, below Seelisberg (p. 80), and 8 min. above the lake, 
are the three springs of the Rutli, or Grutli, trickling from an arti- 
ficial wall of stone, in the midst of an open space planted with 
trees. This spot, with the adjacent timber-built guard-house in the 
old Swiss style (refreshments) and pretty grounds, belongs to the 
Confederation. A block of granite, 10 ft. high, with bronze me- 
dallions, commemorates the author and the'composer of the Song 
of Rutli. 

On this plateau, on the night of 7th Kov., 1307, thirty-three men, from 
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and entered into a solemn league 
for the purpose of driving their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates 
that these three fountains sprang up on the spot where the three confederates, 
Werner Statiffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, Erny (Arnold) an der Halden of 
Melchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter Fiirst of Attinghausen in Uri, stood 
when the oath was taken. — A good and shaded path ascends in 1 hr. 
from the Riitli to the Kttrhaus Seelisberg (p. 80). Small boat from Brun- 
nen to Riitli, see above; an excursion by boat (3-4 fr.) frum Treib is also 
attractive. 

On the E. bank of the lake runs the almost level *Axenstrasse, 
leading from Brunnen to (9 M.) Fliielen, and remarkable for the 
boldness of its construction , being to a great extent hewn in the 
rock. Below, parallel with, or above the road, runs the St. Gott- 
hard Railway (p. 101), skirting the lake in a succession of tunnels 
and cuttings. 

About 1/4 hr. after leaving Brunnen the steamer touches at Sisi- 
kon (Pens. Urirothstock , unpretending), at the entrance to the 
narrow Riemenstaldenthal (p. 65). 

From the hamlet of (i'^/2'^U) Riemenstalden (3410'; *Inn), the following 
summits may be ascended: the Rophaien (6830'; 2V2 hrs.), commanding 
a fine view of the Lake of Lucerne; the 'Rossstock (8()80' ; 3V2-4 hrs.), 
also with a charming view (these two ascents present no difficulty, comp. 



Lucerne. FLUELEN. 25. Route. 83 

p. 102); the Liedernen or Kaiserstock (8255'; 4-4V2 hrs., with guide), to \>c. 
attempted only by experienced niotmtaineers not subject to dizziness. — 
Via the Katzenzagel to the Jthiotaihal, see p. 65. 

We next reach stat. Tell's Platte (^Restaurant, with baths, at 
the landing-place), 8 niin. above which, on the Axenstrasse, is tha 
* Hotel- Pension zur Tellsptatte (j^ens. 6fr.^, with pleasure-grounds 
and a charming view. A little to the S. of the landing-place is a 
ledge of rock at the base of the Axenberg, where, shaded by over- 
hanging trees and washed by the lake, stands the romantic Tell's 
Chapel, rebuilt in 1880, and adorned with four frescoes by Stiickel- 
berg of Bale (protected by a railing on the side next the lake ; 
path to it from the pier in 1 min.). It is said to have been origi- 
nally erected by Canton L'ri in 1388 on the spot where the Swiss 
liberator sprang out of Gessler's boat. On Friday after Ascension 
Day mass is performed here at 7 a.m., and a sermon preached, the 
service being attended by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood in 
gaily decorated boats. Near the chapel the lake is upwards of 700' 
deep. The grandest part of the Axenstrasse is between Tell's Platte 
Inn and Fliielen (21/2 M.), where it pierces the curiously contorted 
limestone strata of the Axenfluh, 360' above the lake, by means of 
a tunnel. Beyond the chapel, Fliielen (which the steamer reaches 
in 1/4 hr. more) becomes visible. The scenery of this part of the lake 
is very striking. Opposite the chapel, on the W. bank, lies the 
hamlet of Bai^en (Tell; p. 81), and, farther on, the dynamite-factory 
oflsleten, at the mouth of the Isenthal. On the saddle between the 
two peaks of the Uri-Rothstock, which rise above the Isenthal, lies 
a glacier, distinctly visible from the steamer; to the left of it the 
Gitschen (8386') rises abruptly from the lake, with its summit re- 
sembling a castle. Beyond Fliielen the Reussthal appears to be closed 
by the pyramidal Bristenstock, with the Kleine and Grosse Windgdlle 
to the left of it (p. 114). 

Fluelen, Ital. Flora (*Kreuz, R., L., & A. 3, B. I1/4 fr. ; Tell, 
R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; *Adler; Gambrinus, all near the quay; Stern; 
Rail. Restaurant ; lake-baths on the Axenstrasse, '/■2 M- off), is the 
port of Uri , and a station (close to the pier) on the St. Gotthard 
Railway (p. 101). Beyond the church is the small chateau oi Rudenz 
which once belonged to the Attinghausen family. The Reuss, which 
falls into the lake between Fliielen and Seedorf, has been 'canalized' 
here to prevent inundations (1/2 hr.'s walk , or 1/4 hr. by boat to 
its influx). 

The Isenthal (see Map, p. 118) may be reached from Fliielen or 
Altdorf on foot in 3 lirs. via Seedorf (p. 83), by a path skirting the 
lake and ascending to the site of the Fruttkapelle (2188'j, with a pictur- 
esque view, where tlie path turns to the left into the valley ; or by the 
steamer from Fliielen (starting at 1.20 p.m.), which touches at Isleten daily ; 
or by small boat from Fliielen; or, best of all, by boat from Tell's Platte 
in >/< hr. (2-4 fr.). From Bauen (see above) a pleasant path, affording 
splendid views of the lalce, ascends round the slope of the Furkelen 
direct to Isenthal in I'/e hr. — The path ascending from Isleten unites 
at the Frutlkapelle with the path from Seedorf. About 1 hr. from Isleten 

G* 



84 Route 25. ISENTHAL. 

we reach the prettily situated village of Isenthal (2452' ; Qctsser^s Inn, 
rustic but clean ; guides, Joh. Imfaiiger and Mich, and joli. Oasser), at 
the S. base of the precipitous Oberbauen or Schi/ngrat (6955'), which may 
be ascended hence via the Banberg in 3'/2-4 hrs. (recommended to adepts; 
guide necessary). The valley divides here into the Grossthal to the right 
and the Kleintltal to the left. — Through the Geossthai-, in which lies the 
Alpine hamlet of (2/4 hr.) St. Jakob (3215'), we may either proceed to the 
W., passing over the Schonegg Pass (6315'), between the HoJie Brisen 
(7895') and the Kaiserstuhl (7877'), to Ober-Rickenbach and (51/2 hrs.) Wolfen- 
schiessen (p. 117); or to the S.W., over the Eothgratli (8420'), betv^een the 
Engelberg-Rothstock and the Hasensiock, to (10 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 118). 
The Engelberg-Rothslock (9252') may be ascended without difficulty from 
the Rothgriitli in 3/4 hr. (comp. p. 119). Via the Jocldi and the Biihlalp 
to (^^l>-^ hrs.) Nieder-Rickenbach, see p. 117. 

Through the Kleinthal leads the usual route to the summit of the 
Uri-Rothstock (6V2-7 hrs.-, not easy; guide 15, or with descent to Engel- 
berg 25 fr.). A fatiguing path leads to the Neienalp and (2 hrs.) Musen- 
alp (4885') ; then a toilsome ascent of precipices of slate-rock to the 
top of the Kessel (8458'); lastly, up the Mittelgrdili, or round it towards 
the E., across the Kleiiitlial Qlacier and up the arete separating it from 
the Bliimlisalp Glacier, to the summit of the *Uri-Rothstock (9620'). An 
easier, but longer route through the Grossthal, passing St. Jakob (see 
above) and the Schlossfelsen , ascends by a steep and rough path to the 
(3 hrs.) Hangbaum-Alp (5660'), grandly situated (fine cascades), where the 
night is spent (hay-ljeds); thence (starting early in the morning) over 
pastures , loose stones, and along the N. edge of the Blumlisdlpfirn to tlie 
ridge between the Grossthal and Kleinthal ; and lastly up the arete towards 
the W. to the summit (3-4 hrs. from Hangbaum), which is usually free from 
snow in summer. The mountain-group which culminates in the Uri-Roth- 
stock and the Brunnistock (96S3'), like the Titlis, is almost perpendicular 
on the E. and S.E. sides (towards the Gitschenthal and Surenen) , and is 
composed of gigantic and fantastically contorted limestone rocks. The view 
from the summit is exceedingly grand : to the S. the chain of the Alps, with 
the Sentis at their E. extremity; at our feet, 8000' below, the Lake of 
Lucerne; to the N.E. and N. the Rigi , Pilatus , and the Entlebuch Mts., 
the lower hills of N. Switzerland , and the plains of S. Germany. — The 
descent (an easy and attractive glacier -expedition) may be made by the 
Bliimlisalp Glacier, the Schlossstock-Liicke, and the Rothstock-Liicke to the 
(3 hrs.) Plankenalp Club-hut, and to (3 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 118). 

26. The Eigi. 

The mountain Railways which ascend the Rigi from Vitznan and from 
Arth are now used by the vast majority of travellers who visit this 
justly famous and most admirable point of view. The journey is further 
facilitated by the numerous trains and steamboats which connect Arth 
and Vitznau with places both near and distant, so that a visit to the 
Rigi and back may now be accomplished easily from Lucerne or Ziirich 
in one day. The ascent from Vitznau, which is more convenient for many 
travellers, affords beautiful views all the way, while that from Ai'th offers 
the advantage that the view bursts upon the spectator far more strikingly 
as he approaches the top. 

Both lines are constructed on the rack-and-pinion system. The gauge 
is of the usual width. Between the rails runs the toothed rail, which 
consists of two rails placed side by side and connected with cross-bars at 
regular intervals. Into the spaces thus formed works a cog-wheel under 
the locomotive, which is always placed below the passenger-car. The 
maximum gradient of the Vitznau line is 1:4, and of the Arth line 1:5. 
Each train on the Vitznau line consists of one carriage only, with 54 
seats, not divided into classes, and, on the Arth line, of two carriages 
holding 40 persons each. The average speed is 4-6 M. per hour. — The 




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RIGI. ■26. Route. 85 

Scheidegg Railway (p. OOj is a lino of the ordinary kind, biit the loco- 
motives are specially adapted for mounting gradients. 

The Footpaths to the top of the Rigi are now very little used , but 
the Descent to Weijgis on foot (2-2V2 hrs. ; see p. 87) is recommended. 

Hotels. On the Kulm, 'Schreiber's Rigi-Kulm Hotels (three houses ; 
the two higher and older being now dependances of the lower; Restau- 
rant on the ground-floor of the latter); high charges, R,, L., <fe A. 6-7, 
I). 5 fr. — On the Rigi-Staffel , where all the routes converge , 1/2 hr. 
below the Kulm, "Hot. -Pens. Rigi-Staffel, R., L., <fc A. from S'/s, D. 3i/-j, 
pens. 8-9 fr., adapted for a stay of some time; 'Hotel Staffel-Kulm and 
Hotel Rigibahn, both immediately above the station, moderate. — The 
'KuRHAUS Rigi-Kaltbad (p. 86), '/z hr. below the StafTel, to the W., is a 
large, first-class establishment, high charges, pens. 12-18 fr. (hot and cold 
baths; Engl. Church Service); 'Bellevhe, below stat. Kaltbad, pens, from 7, 
D. 31/2 fr. — "Hotel Rigi-First, on the Scheidegg railway (p. 90), 74 hr. 
from the Kaltbad, pleasant for some stay, pens, from 10th .Tuly to 10th 
Sept. 11-15 fr. , earlier or later in the season 9-12 fr. — "Schwert and 
*SoNNE, by the Klosterli (p. 87), R. & A. 2V2-3, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. — 
Pens. Riedboden, between the Klosterli and the Staffel , 4 fr. — *H6t.- 
Pens. Rigi-Felsenthor (p. 87), 10 min. from stat. Uomifi-Felsenf/ior 
(p. 86) , pens. 6-7 fr. — Hotel Rigi-Unterstetten, near stat. Unterstetten 
(p. 90), plain, pens. 51/2 fr. — *Kdrhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 90; proprietor, 
Dr. Slierliii-Hanser), R. 2-5, D. 4, B. IV4, S. 2V2, pens, in July and August 
7-12, in June and Sept. 7-10 fr. (Engl. Ch. Serv.). 

The **Kigi (5905', or 4470' above the Lake of Lucerne ; origin- 
ally 'die Rigi', i.e. the strata), a group of mountains about 25 M. in 
circumference, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz, 
is chiefly composed of conglomerate (p. 100), while the N. and W. 
sides belong to the meiocene formation. The N. side is precipitous, 
but the S. side consists of broad terraces and gentle slopes, covered 
with fresh green pastures which support upwards of 4000 head of 
cattle, and planted towards the base with fig, chestnut, and almond 
trees. Owing to its isolated situation, the Rigi commands a most ex- 
tensive view, 300 M. in circumference, and unsurpassed for beauty 
in Switzerland. The mountain was known to a few travellers 
during the latter part of the 18th cent., but it was not till after the 
peace of 1815 that it became a resort of tourists. In 1816 a very 
modest inn was erected on the Kulm by voluntary subscription, and 
in 1848 it was superseded by the oldest of the three houses on the 
summit. Since then the number of inns has been steadily increas- 
ing, and the Rigi is now one of the most popular of Swiss resorts. 

From Vitznau to the Rigi-Kulm, 472 M., Mountain Railway 
in 1 hr. 20 min., fare 7 fr. (to Kaltbad 472, Staffel 6 fr.); descent also 
1 hr. 20 min.. fore 3V2 fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free, overweight being 
charged for. First-class return-tickets from Lucerne to the Rigi via Vitz- 
nau 1372 fr. ; Sunday tickets 7 fr. ; season-tickets 30 per cent less. Return- 
tickets do not permit of an alternative return-route; e.g. holders of tickets 
from Vitznau may not return to Arth, or vice versa. 

Vitznau, see p. 78. The station is close to the quay. The 
train (views to the left) ascends gradually through the village (1 : 
15), and aftersvards more rapidly (1 : 4), skirting the precipitous 
slopes of the Dossen. A *View of the lake is soon disclosed, becom- 
ing grander as wo ascend. Opposite us first appears the dark Biir- 
genstock, then the Stanserhorn, Pilatns, and Liirernc. Farther up, 



80 Route -26. RIGI. Kaltbad. 

the Alps of Uri, Eiigclberj^, and Bern come in siglit above the lower 
mountains. The train (20 mln. after starting! penetrates a tunnel 
82 yds. long, crosses the Schnurtobel, a ravine 75' deep, by a bridge 
borne by two iron pillars, and soon reaches the watering and passing 
station of Freibergen (3333'), beyond which the line is double. Stat. 
Romiti-Felsenthor (3890'; comp. p. 87) and (54 min. from Yitznau) — 

23/4M. Kaltbad (4700') ; to the left is the large Kurhaus (p. 85), 
■with its covered promenade, a health-resort on a plateau sheltered 
from the N. and E. winds. 

A path leads through a narrow opening in the rock, to the left of the 
hotel, to (5 min.) St. Michael's Chapel, the walls of which are hung with 
numerous votive tablets. One of these on the left side records that two 
pious sisters sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the 
district in the time of King Albert , and built the chapel. The spring 
(42° Fahr.) which bubbles forth from the rock adjoining the chapel was 
formerly called the 'Schwesternborn'' in memory of the two sisters. 

A path among the blocks of conglomerate near the chapel, and after- 
wards traversing park-like grounds, leads to the (V4 br.) 'Kanzeli (4773'J, 
a pavilion on a projecting rock, commanding an admirable view of the 
snow-mountains, and of the plain towards the N. with its numerous lakes, 
similar to that from the Slaffel, but with a more picturesque foreground. 
— A path leads hence to the StafTel in the same time as from the Kalt- 
bad (50 min.), ascending to the right as far as the point where the S. part 
of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and following the crest of the 
mountain until it joins the path from the Kaltbad, at the (Vshr.) Stafl'elhohe. 

Railway from the Kaltbad to the Scheidegg, see p. 90. 

In 5 min. more the train reaches stat. Staff elhohe ; then ascends 
to the left, round the Rigi-Rothstock (^ieehelow^, In 9 min. to (4M.) 
Rigi-Staffel (5262'), the junction of the Arth line (see below). 

The *Rigi-Rothstock (5455'), 'A ^^- *o *lie S.W., affords a very pictur- 
esque survey of the central part of the Lake of Lucerne, which is not vis- 
ible from the Kulm. A clear view is often enjoyed from this point while 
the Kulm is enveloped in dense fog. The sunset is said to be sometimes 
seen in greater perfection from the Rothstock than from the Kulm , but 
the sunrise should certainly be witnessed from the latter. 

The railway (here parallel with the Arth line) now ascends steeply 
to the Kulm (in 7 min. ; a walk of 1/2 ^r.), skirting the precipices 
on the N. side of the hill. 41/2 M. Rigi-Kulm (5741'), see p. 88. 

Fkom Arth to THB Rigi-Ktjlm, 7M., Mountain Railway inlV2hr., 
fare 8fr. 30 (to the Klostevli 5 fr. 50, StafTel 7fr. 40c.; from Arth-Goldau, on 
the St. Gotthard Railway, to theKulm in lV4hr.,fare8fr.); descent inlV2hr., 
fare 4 fr. 30 c. ; only 10 lbs. of luggage free. Season-tickets 50 per cent less. 

Arth (1345'; Hail, liestaurant), see p. 95. As far as Goldau the 
line is of the ordinary kind. The train ascends gradually to Ober- 
Arth (1490'), passes through the MuUefluh Tunnel and under the 
St. Gotthard Railway, and reaches (IV2 M.) Arth-Goldau (1683' ; 
Restaurant^], a station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 100), where the 
toothed-wheel system begins, and -where we change our direction 
(Seats should if possible be secured at Arth on the left side, that 
farthest from the waiting-room.) The Rigi line traverses part of 
the scene of the Goldau landslip (p. 100), crosses the Schwyz road, 
and describes a wide curve to the W.; then, ascending more rapidly, 
it skirts the slope at the foot of the Scheidegg and reaches (2^/4 M.) 



Klosterli. RIGI. 26. Route. 87 

Stat. Krabel (2507'), where tlie engine is 'watered'. Farther on, 
ascending 1' in 5', we skirt the precipitous Krdbelwand , where 
the construction of the line presented much difficulty, and obtain 
a fine view of the valley and lake of Lowerz , with the island of 
Schwanau, the Mythen near Schwyz, the Rossberg and scene of the 
great landslip, and the Lake of Zug. Beyond the Rothfluh Tunnel 
we are carried through a picturesque wooded valley, and across the 
Rothfluhbach, to the passing-station Fruttli (3780'). Still ascending 
rapidly , the train traverses the Pfedernwald , crosses the Dossen- 
hach and (beyond the Pfedernwald Tunnel') the Schildbach, and 
reaches (5 M. ; IV4 hr. from Arth) — 

Stat. Klosterli (4262'), lying in a basin enclosed by the Rigi- 
Kulm, the Rothstock, and the First. The 'Klosterli' is a small Ca- 
puchin monastery and hospice, with the pilgrimage-chapel of Maria 
zum Schnee, founded in 1689 and rebuilt in 1712, and the inns al- 
ready mentioned (p. 85). The chapel is much visited by pilgrims, 
especially on 5th Aug. and 6th Sept. ; and on Sundays there is mass 
with a sermon for the herdsmen. This spot has no view, but is 
sheltered, and the air is often quite clear while the Kulm, Staffel, and 
Scheidegg are shrouded in mist. Walk from the Klosterli to the Rigi- 
First 20 min. , Unterstetten 1/2 ^^-i to ^^^ Staffel, the Rothstock, or the 
Schild 3/4, to the Dossen or Kulm 11/4 hr., to the Scheidegg 1^/4 hr. 

At (61/4 M.) Stat. Eigi-Staffel (p. 8G) a strikingly beautiful 
view is suddenly disclosed towards the W. and N. (comp. p. 84). 
From this point to the (7 M.) Rlgi-Kulm, see p. 86. 

Foot and Bridle Paths to the Rigi (comp. p. 85). From Weggis (p. 78) a 
bridle-path (81/4 hrs.) , which cannot be missed (finger-post 5 min. from 
the landing-place), winds at first through productive orchards, the fruit 
of which is frequently offered for sale. It crosses the track of a mud- 
stream which descended from the mountain in 1795, taking a fortnight to 
reach the lake. (IV4 hr.) HeiUc/kreuz-CapeUe ; (}/■> hr.) "Hdtel-Pension Felsen- 
thor (p. 85), near the Hochstein or Felsent/tor , sometimes called the Kcis- 
bissen , an arch formed of two huge masses of conglomerate, on which 
rests a third block. iSiat. Romiti, a little higher up, see p. 86.) The path 
runs parallel to the railway part of the way. (8/4 hr.) Kaltbad, see p. 86. 
This route commands beautiful views of the lake and mountains, and is 
especially recommended for the descent (comp. p. 85). 

From Kussnach (p. 95) a bridle-path (3'/4 hrs.). The path diverges 
to the right by a small shrine at the N. end of the village, skirting the 
brook, which it crosses near a large new house ; >/2 hr., ruins of a burned 
house; at the finger-post 'auf die Rigi' we turn to the left; 20 min., Ross- 
weid, where the rock bears a cross to the memory of a man killed by 
lightning in 1738 (view over the N. part of the Lake of Zug); then through 
wood (for 20 min.) and a fern-clad tract (view of the Lakes of Sempach 
to the left, and Baldegg to the right). (1/4 hr.) Vordere Seeboden-Alp (3372'; 
Kurhaus, rustic and dear), on which, at the Heiligkreuz, our path unites 
with those from Immensee and TelTs Chapel ; 18 min., Iliiiiere Seeboden-Alp. 
Then a steep zigzag ascent of l'/4 hr. to Rigi-Staffel (p. 86). 

From Immjsnsee (p. 95) a bridle-path (3'/4 hrs.). After '/s M. we reach 
the Kussnach and Arth road at the inn '■ Zur Eiche'' (p. 95); fifty paces to 
the left, V)y the inn '■ Zur Ilge\ the Rigi path ascends to the right to the 
(13/4 hr.) Vordere Seeboden-Alp (see above). Or we may follow the Kiissnach 
road for '/n M. more to TelVs Chapel (p. 95), and ascend thence to the left 
by a path which joins the other on the (Vi hr.) Langegg-Alp ('2020'). 



88 Route 26. RIGI. Kulm. 

From Greppen (p. 95) , on the E. bank of the Kiissnach arm of the 
Lake of Lucerne, another good bridle-path leads to the Rigi-Kanzeli (p. 8G) 
in 2 hrs. and to the Kulm in S'/z hrs. 

The Rigi-Knlm(5905'), a grassy peak, the highest and northern- 
most point of the Rigi, descends abruptly on the N. to the Lake of 
Zug, while on the S.W. side it joins that part of the mountain which 
encloses the basin of the Klosterli and extends to the Scheidegg. 
At the top rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels (p. 85) stand about 
130 paces below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds. 

The Kulm almost always presents a busy scene, but is most 
thronged in the morning and evening. The sunset is always the 
chief attraction. A performer on the Alpine horn blows the 'retreat' 
of the orb of day, after which the belvedere is soon deserted. 

Half-an-hour before sunrise , the Alpine horn sounds the re- 
veille. All is again noise and bustle ; the crowded hotels are for 
the nonce without a tenant ; and the summit is thronged with an 
eager multitude , enveloped in all manner of cloaks and mantles. 
Unfortunately a perfectly cloudless sunrise is a rare event. 

A faint streak in the E., which gradually pales the brightness 
of the stars, heralds the birth of day. This insensibly changes to 
a band of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak becomes tinged with 
a roseate blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon grad- 
ually melt away; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal 
themselves; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun 
bursts from behind the mountains in all its majesty, flooding the 
superb landscape with light and warmth. 

**View. The first object which absorbs our attention is the stu- 
pendous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (conip. the 
Panorama). The chain begins in the far E. with the Senlis in Can- 
ton Appenzell , over or near which the first rays of the rising sun 
appear in summer. Nearer the Rigi rises the huge snowy crest of 
the Gldrnisch; then the Todi, in front of which are the Clariden, 
and to the right the double peak of the Scheerhorn ; next, the broad 
Windgcille , immediately opposite , and the sharp pyramid of the 
Bristenstock , at the foot of which lies Amsteg on the St. Gotthard 
road; then the Blackenstock and the Uri-Rothstock , side by side, 
both so near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished ; 
next, the serrated SpanniJrter, and more to the right the TitUs, the 
highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by Its vast 
mantle of snow. The eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, crown- 
ing the landscape with their magnificent peaks clad with perpet- 
ual snow. To the extreme left is the Finsteraarhorn. the loftiest 
of all (14,026'); adjacent to it the Schreckhurner , the three white 
peaks of the Wetterhorn, the Monch, the Eiger v/ith its perpendicu- 
lar walls of dark rock on the N. side, and the Jungfrnu. To the W. 
tower the jagged peaks of the sombre Pilatus, forming the extreme 
outpost of the Alps in this direction. — Towards the North the 



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Kulm. RIGI. 26. Route. 89 

entire Lfifce ofZug is visible, with the roads leadings to Arth, and the 
villages of Zug and Cham. To the left of the Lake of Zug, at the 
foot of the Rigi, stands TeU's Chapel^ midway between Immensee 
and Kiissnach , a little to the left of a white house ; then, separa- 
ted from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiissnach 
arm of the Lake of Lucerne ; more to the W. Lucerne with its crown 
of battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne 
is seen almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme me- 
andering through it like a silver thread ; the Reuss is also visible 
at places. More distant are the Luke of Sempach , the W. side of 
which is skirted by the railway to Bale, and the lakes of Baldegg and 
Hallwyl. Towards the West and North-West the horizon is bound- 
ed by the Jura Mts., above which peep some of the crests of the 
Vosges. — To the North, but to the left of the Lake of Zug, the 
handsome buildings of the former Abbey of Muri are visible , be- 
yond which rises the castle of Uabsburg; in the distance the Black 
Forest with its highest peaks , the Feldberg (to the right) and the 
Belchen (to the left). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the crest of 
the Albis with the Veiliberg, which nearly conceals the Lake of Zu- 
rich; the long cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of 
Zurich are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the ba- 
saltic cones of Hohenhowen and Hohenstoffeln (close together) and 
the Hohentwiel in Swabia. Towards the East, behind the N. slope 
of the Rossberg, a glimpse is obtained of the Lake of Aegeri, on the 
S. bank of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten (p. 98). 
Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Rossberg , the S. slope of 
which was the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip (p. 100). 
Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi lies the 
Lake of Lowerz with its two little islands ; beyond it, the town of 
Schwyz, at the foot of the bald heights of the Mythen, overtopped 
by the imposing Gldrnisch. To the right opens the Muotathal^ cel- 
ebrated in military annals. To the South-East and South the 
different heights of the Rigi form the foreground: viz. the Hochfluh 
(below it the Rothfiuh\ Scheidegg , Dossen , and Schild, at the foot 
of which lies the Klosterli. To the left of the Schild part of the 
Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenricd , and to the right the bay 
called the Luke of Buoclis, with the Buochser Horn above it; a little 
more to the right the Stanser Horn with Stans at its base ; nearer, 
the less lofty Biirgenstock and the Rigi-Rothstock. Beyond these, 
to the left, is the Lake of Sarnen, embosomed in forest, to the 
right, the Bay of Alpnach, connected with the Lake of Lucerne by 
a narrow strait formed by the Lopperberg , a spur of Pilatus. — 
Good panorama by Keller, upon which that annexed is based. 

For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is 
clearest ; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds, 
frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. To quote the 
chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell : 



90 Route 26. RIGI. 

'Through the parting clouds only 
The earth can be seen, 

Far down 'neath the vapour 
The meadows of green.' 
But the mists themselves possess a certain charui, surging in the 
depths of the valleys, or veiling the Kulm, and struggling against 
the powerfid rays of the sun. The effects of light and shade, 
varying so often in the course of the day , are also a source of 
constant interest. In the early morning the Bernese Alps are seen 
to the best advantage, and in the evening those to the E. of the 
Bristenstock. One whole day at least should be devoted to the Rigi. 
A visit may also be paid (on foot or by rail) to the Staffel (p. 86), 
the Kaltbad (p. 86), the Klosterli (p. 87), or the Scheidegg (see 
below), and the Rothstock (p. 86) may be ascended. 

As the temperature often varies 40-50o within 24 hours, overcoats 
and shawls should not be forgotten. During the prevalence of the Fohn, 
or S. wind, the Alps seem to draw nearer, their .iagged outlines become 
more definite, their tints warmer; and during a W. wind the Jura Mts. 
present a similar appearance. These phenomena generally portend rain. 



From the Kaltbau to the Rigi-Scheidegg. — 4V4M. Railway in 
25 min. ; fare 2 fr. 50, there and back 3 fr. 60 c. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free. 

Rigi-Kalthad (4700'), see p. 86. The railway skirts the S. 
slope of the Rothstock, being hewn in the rock the greater part 
of the way, and ascends gradually to stat. Rigi -First (4747'; 
*Hotel, see p. 85), which commands a beautiful view of the Lake 
of Lucerne, the Uri and Unterwalden Mts., and the Bernese 
Alps. The train now describes a wide curve round the N. slopes of 
the Schild (6230'; ^UhT. from the Hotel First), affording a pleasant 
view, towards the E., of the Mythen, the Glarnisch, and the Alps 
of Appenzell. Beyond stat. Vnterstetten (Hotel, see p. 85) we tra- 
verse the saddle of the hill and cross a bridge 55 yds. long, with 
a view to the N. and S. We pass through the Weissenegg Tunnel, 
55 yds. long, cross the Dossentohel by a viaduct 84' high, and 
beyond the ridge which connects the Dossen with the Scheidegg, 
where a view towards the S. is again disclosed, reach Vnter-Dossen. 

Stat. Rigi-Scheidegg, 160' below the ^Hotel ^- Kurhaus (5405') 
mentioned at p. 85. The view hence is less extensive than that 
from the Kulm , but it also embraces the principal mountains, and 
some points not visible from the Kulm (see Panorama at the hotel). 
The plateau of the Scheidegg, about 1 M. in length, affords a 
pleasant promenade. The Dossen (p. 91) is ^/^ hr. distant. 

The *Hochfluh (5355') may be ascended without difficulty in lV-2-2 hrs. 
from the Scheidegg, by a new path constructed by Ur. Stierlin-Hauser, 
which steadily follows the ridge, passing the Giitlerli (pass from Gersaii 
to Lower/.; 3720') vmH HcharleggH (4475'). In the couloir, on the K.W. side 
of the summit, an iron ladder, 80" high, must be ascended. This highly 
interesting ascent allords a most picturesque view of the Lake of Uri, the 
Alps of Uri and Schwyz, and the Glarner Alps. The older route (2'/2-3 hrs.), 
crossing the saddle towards the Ziristock-IIiitle, and then ascending among 
the rocks on the S. side, has also lieen improved and may be chosen for 
the descent (also to Gersau, p. 79, if desired). 



BURGENSTOCK. 27. Route. 91 

Paths to the Scheidegg. Fkom Geksau (p. 79j a bridle-path (S'/a hrs.), 
steep at places. Beyond the village we cross the brook and ascend by a 
paved path between orchards and farm-houses; 40 min., the Brand; '/2 hr., 
a saw-mill, where we again cross the brook; 10 min., Unier ■ Gschwend 
(3200'; tavern); 10 min., Ober- Gschwend (3330'; halfway). To the right, 
the precipitous slopes of the EochfluU (p. 80) ; below lies the little chapel 
of St. Joseph. We now turn to the left (to the right is the path to Lowerz 
via the Gatterli. see p. 90) and ascend by the Haseribiihl-Alp and the Kriisel- 
hoden to the sharp crest of the hill, where a view is suddenly disclosed of the 
Kossberg, the lakes of Lowerz and Zug, and the Kurhaus of Rigi-Scheidegg. 

From Lowekz (p. 1(X)) a bridle-path (3 hrs.), ascending towards the S. to 
the Gatlerli (see abuve) and thence to the right over the ridge to the hotel. 

Fkom the Klosterli (p. 87) a bridle-path (I1/2 hr.), ascending from 
the Schwert Inn to the ('/.; hr.) Hotel Rigi-Untersletten (p. 85), situated on 
the saddle between the Schild and Dossen (5510'), 40 min. below the sum- 
mit, which commands the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and Canton Unter- 
walden. Descent via Unterdossen to Scheidegg in 40 minutes. Refreshments 
may be obtained at a chalet, halfway between Unterstetten and Scheidegg. 

27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus. 

Coiiip. Map, p. 77. 

BrCsig R.vilwav from Lucerne to (S M.) Alpnach-Stad in 27-32 min., 
(I fr. 40, 1 fr., 70 c. ; return-tickets 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c), see p. 120. 

Steamboat, 8 times daily in ^ji-i^j^ hr. (7 times via Kehrsiten, twice 
via llergiswyl, thrice direct via Stansstad), connecting at Alpnach-Stad 
with the Briinig and Pilatus Railways. 

The Bevnig Railway to Alpnach - Stad , via Hergiswyl , see 
p. 120. — The STEAMBO.iT steers towards the 'Kreuztrichter' (p. 78), 
keeping near the W. bank and passing the country-seat of Tribschen, 
the Pension Stutz (p. 73), the St. Niklauscapelle, and the station of 
Kastanienbaum, and enters the bay of Stansstad. To the left rises 
the Biirgenstock, with its precipitous N. slopes, at the N. E. angle 
of which lies the station of Kehrsiten (Restaurant). 

A WiKE-RoPE Railway ascends the Biirgenstock from Kehrsiten in 
20 min. (fares, up l'/2, 1 fr., down 1 fr., 50 c), traversing a distance of 
1025 yds., with an average gradient of 53:100. The motive power is 
electricity, which is also utilized for pumping water and for purposes of 
lighting. At the top of the railway (2855'. 1420' above the sea-level) is a 
"Restaurant, beside which is the large *H6tel Biirgenstock (R. from 2, B. 
l'/2, D. 4, pens. 6V2 fr. ; resident physician), a favourite health-resort, with 
extensive and shady grounds. The hotel and several points near it com- 
mand beautiful views. A good path leads to ('/2 hr.) ^one^jr; and a steep 
path (unpleasant in wet weather) ascends through wood in 1 hr. t<i 
the Haimnelschwand (3721'), the summit of the Biirgenstock, which descends 
abruptly to the Lake of Lucerne : striking view of the greater part of the 
lake, of the lakes of Sarnen, Sempach, Baldegg. Hallwyl, and Zug, of the 
Rigi, Pilatus, Mythen, Weissenstein, and of the Alps of Glarus and Unter- 
walden, and part of the Bernese Alps. 

To the right the promontory oi Spissenegg extends far into the 
lake, forming a bay which extends to the N. to Winkel. The steamer 
steers (except on the direct voyages, see above) to the S.W. to 
Hergiswyl (* Hotel- Pension Russli, moderate, pens. 4-7 fr.), at the 
foot of Pilatus (p. 92), and then to the E. to Stansstad (1446'; *Uotel 
Winkelried, pens. 6 fr., R. extra; Freienhof; RiJssH; Schlilssel^, the 
'harbour of Stans'. The square pinnacled Schnitz-Thurm was erected 
by the Swiss in 1308 to vindicate their new-won independence. 



92 Route 27. PILATUS. 

Walk fkom Stansstad to Saknen. The path skirts the lako, fur a 
short way, enters the Rotzloch, and at Allweg ("Inn), 2 M. from Stans- 
stad, where there is a chapel in memory of Winkelried (pp. SO, 117), .ioins 
the Starts and Sarnen Road (no diligence). This road leads past the W. 
base of the Sianserhorn (p. 117), and by Ro/iren to (2 M.) SI. Jakob, a village 
with an old church, then across the Mehlback, and through the Kernwald 
to (3 M.) Kerns ('Krone; Hirsch: Hossli), a pleasant village with a pretty 
church, and (1 M.) Sarnen (p. 121). 

The Lopper, the E. spur of Pilatus, extends far into the lake. 
The brook opposite, which falls into the lake at Stansstad, has further 
narrowed the channel between the Lake of Lucerne and the Lake of 
Alpnach with its alluvial deposits, and the strait is now crossed by 
an embankment and a bridge (Acherbriicke), y/hich is opened for the 
passage of steamers. Within the Bay of Alpnach rises the Rotzberg 
(2214',- Rotz, Ross, akin to Roche, rock), crowned by a ruined castle 
of the same name, which was destroyed on New Year's Day 1308 
(ascent from the Rotzloch 3/^ hr. ; fine view). The hill is separated 
from the Plaltiherg by the Rotzloch, a narrow ravine, in which the 
Mehlback forms several falls. Portland Cement factory (the dust 
sometimes very unpleasant). On the lake is situated Pens. Bldtller 
(5fr.), with a sulphur-spring and pleasant grounds. On the slope of 
the Rotzberg, ^ji^v. to the E., is the *Pcns. iJoizierjf, prettily situated, 
and 10 min. beyond it the Pens. Burg Rotzberg. 

At the S.W. angle of the Lake of Alpnach lies Alpnach-Stad 
(1443'; *H6tel Pilatus, R. & A. 2-3, D. incl. wine 3, pens. 5fr., with 
verandah and garden; *Rdssli; Stern^ the station for the Briinig 
Railway and the starting-point of the Pilatus Railway (see below). 

*Pilatus (6998'), the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, 
rises boldly in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the 
surrounding heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the canton 
of Lucerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. The lower slopes are 
clothed with beautiful pastures and forests, while the upper part 
consists of wild and serrated cliffs, from which its ancient name 
Fractus Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont', 
'Frakmund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, but 
the name Pilatus (mons pileatus, the capped mountain) came into 
general use about the close of last century. 

The names of the different peaks from W. to E. are the Miitaggiipfi 
or Gnepfslein (6300'), the Rothe-Totzen (6893'), the Widderfeld (6825'. the 
wildest), the Tomlishorn (6998', the highest), the GemsmaltU (6732'); to 
the S. the Malthorn (6093'); to the N. the KUmsenhorn (6266', which, seen 
from Lucerne, is the farthest W.); in the centre the Oberhaupt, then the 
Usel (6965', the most frequently ascended), and lastly the Steigli-Egg (6485'). 

Pilatus, formerly one of the best known of the Swiss mountains, 
was for many years supplanted by the Rigi, but has of late regained 
its ancient reputation and become one of the most popular points 
of view in Switzerland, especially since the opening of the *Pilatus 
Railway in June, 1889. 

The Pilatus Railway, the boldest undertaking of the kind ever car- 
ried through, was constructed in 1886-88 under the superintendence of 
Col. Locher, the inventor of the system adopted. The line, which is 



L Ik ~r„. Gspaltenh- f 
Ihej ^"""■"SSSO 3W6 

1771 Gisw^lerstock Dol 

1- , 20H 
raulhorn Blumlisi 

2663 3661 







PILATDS. 27. Route. 93 

nearly 3 M. long, with an average gradient of 42 : 100 and a maximum 
gradient of 48 : JdO, rests througbout on a substructure of massive granite 
blocks and slabs, to which an upper framework of iron and steel is se- 
curely fastened with huge screws. In the centre of the track, and a little 
elevated above the side-metals, is a rail with vertical teeth on both sides, 
into which two pairs of toothed wheels attached to the train work hori- 
zontally. The brake may be applied to each of these toothed wheels sep- 
arately during the descent. Ihe engine and the passenger - carriage 
(32 seats) form a single car with two axles. The ascent or descent takes 
I'/ahr. ; fares, up lOfr., down 6fr. The views on both sides are equally fine. 

The railway begins near the Hotel Pilatus (1443' ; p. 92), and 
immediately ascends, traversing orchards and afterwards wood. 
13min. Wolfort Viaduct {196'), a stone bridge, with a span of 24yds., 
across the gorge of the Wolfortbach ; tine view of the Lake of Alp- 
nach to the right. We then enter the Wolfort Tunnel (48 yds.), 
beyond which the line is carried on massive substructures along the 
stony slope of the Risleten, the most difficult portion of the railway 
to construct (gradient 48:100), and then traverse the Lower 
(56 yds.) and Upper Spyrher Tunnel (106 yds. long; 3773' above the 
sea-level) to the (40 min.) Aemsigenalp (4593'), a passing-station 
with pumping-works which force water to the Pilatus-Kiilm, 2197' 
above. The railway now ascends towards the W. via the Mattalp 
(to the right the >"!^teigli-Egg, in front the Esel) and is next carried 
up the precipitous rocky summit of the Esel through four tunnels 
(48, 60, 50, and 12 yds. long). The terminus Pilatuskulm (6790') 
adjoins the large new Hotel tilatusUulm [oT^tw&A in 1890; fine view 
from the terrace). — A new path leads from this point to (8 min.) 
the summit of the *Esel (6965'), the chief point of view. The view 
resembles that from the Rigi, but surpasses it in grandeur and 
variety, the Bernese Alps in particular looming nearer and more 
massive (comp. the Panorama). 

A still more comprehensive view may be enjoyed from the *Tom- 
lishorn (6998'), the highest peak of Pilatus, to which a new path, passing 
through a rock-gallery, 1365 yds. in length, leads from the Pilatuskulm 
in 20 min. (Panorama by Imfeld). 

Pedestrians will tind the ascent of Pilatus best made from Hergisinjl 
('•'Rossle), a railway and steamboat station (p. 92) at the ^-W- foot of the 
mountain. There is a bridle-path as lar as the (3' 2 hrs.) Hotel Kimseu- 
horn (horse 12 fr., descent on the same day 8, next day 12 Ir.), whence a 
footpath ascends to (40 miu.) the Pilatuskulm. In front of the church v, e 
take the broader path to the left, and after 3 min. ttirn to the right, 
traversing orchards and meadows, and afterwards wood. At (l^A hr.) the 
JIdt.-Peiis. Brunni, a small sulphur-bath, there is a terrace affording a 
line view; 6 min., a bench shaded by pines; ^'4 hr., a second bench. After 
12 min. tlie path leads through a gate to the Gsc/iu-dndalp, where a third 
bench (6 min.) commands a fine view. Is'ear a chalet (20 min.) we pass 
through another gale and ascend in steep zigzags to the left, at lirst 
through beautiful pine-wood, and then across slopes of grass and debris, 
to (IV4 hr.) the Hotel Klimsenhorn, situated on the saddle (5940', 35' higher 
than the Rigi-Kulm) connecting the Oberhaupt with the Klimsenhorn. 

From the hotel we may ascend the (10 min.) -Klimsenhorn (6265'). 
which atTords an extensive and picturesque prospect to the E., X., and 
W., from the Uri Mis. to the Lake of Neuchatel. The view to the S. is 
hidden by the loftier peaks of Pilatus. The Tomlishom (see above) may 
also be ascended from the hotel, by a new path via the Kastelenalp. 



94 Route 28. LAKE OF ZUG. 

From the Hotel Klinisenhorn a well-constructed zigzag path ascends 
the steep slope of the OberhmqH, to the (40 min.) Kriesiloch, an aperture 
in the rock resembling a chimney, 20' high, through which 41 wooden 
steps ascend to the arete between the Oberhaupt and the Esel. The 'View 
of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed here. The path then leads in 
a few minutes to the II6(el Bellevue (p. 93). 

The Pilatuskulm may also be reached by bridle-paths frpm Alpnacli- 
Stad (41/2 hrs.; \ii the Aemsigeiialp and MaUalp; horse with guide 15 fr.) 
and from Alpnach (p. 121; 41/2-5 hrs. ; via the Alps oiLUiholdsmatt, Schwandt, 
and Hinter-Frokmund). — From Kriens (p. 76) a path leads to (3'/2-4 hrs.) 
the Hotel Klimsenhorn, passing the chateau of Schauensee, and traversing 
the Hochwald and marshy pastures via the MUhlenmdss-Alp and Frak- 
miind-Alp (guide indispensable). Via the Briindlenalp (last part of the 
route very rough), see p. 77. 

The Rigi has a marked advantage over Pilatus in frequently 
enjoying clear and sunny weather while its rival is shrouded in 
clouds or fog. Being an advanced outpost of the Alpine chain, 
Pilatus attracts every storm that approaches from the N. or W., and 
is the popular barometer of the district. An old saying runs thus : — 

'If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day; 

If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way ; 

But if his sword he wields, at home you'd better stay '.' 

If the summit is free from clouds and fog in the morning, the 
weather cannot be depended on ; but if shrouded in fog till midday, 
a fine afternoon may be expected. 

Many legends are connected with Pilatus, particularly with its caverns 
(the Mondmilchloch below the Tomlisalp , and the Dominikhohle above the 
Briindlenalp) and its Lake, below the summit, not far from the Briindlen- 
alp. One of the oldest is, that when Pontius Pilate was banished from 
Galilee, he fled hither, and in the bitterness of his remorse, drowned 
himself in this lake. 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth. 

Coiitp. Maps, pp. 7G, 84. 

i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug. 

Steamboat (in connection with the Zurich and Lucerne and the Rigi 
railways) in 50 min. (Quick train from Zug by Rothkreuz to Arth-Goldau 
in 48 min., ordinary in 1 hr. 40 min.) 

The Lake of Zug (1368'), 88/4 M. long, 21/2 M. wide, and 650' 
deep, is very picturesque. Its richly wooded banks rise gently to 
a moderate height, while to the S., above its azure waters, towers 
the Rigi, visible from base to summit. On the flat N. bank of the 
lake many remains of lake-dwellings have been discovered. 

Zug, see p. 71. Soon after the steamer has left the pier, Pilatus 
appears to the S.W., and then the Bernese Alps and the Stanser- 
horn to the left. On a promontory on the W. bank is the handsome 
new chateau of Buonas ; on the E. bank lie the village of Oherwyl 
and the houses of Otterswyl and Elelenegg. Looking back, we ob- 
serve the church-tower of Cham (p. 71), rising above the plain. 
On the W. bank, farther on, the wooded promontory of Kiemen pro- 
jects far into the lake. To the left of the Rigi-Scheidegg are the 
Frohiialpstock and the Ross-Stocke. Tlie steamer touches at Lolhen- 



KUSSNACH. 2.S. Route. 95 

bach on the E. bank, and then crosses to Immensee (^Hot. Rigi), 
charmingly situated at tlie foot of the Rigi. (Rail, stat., see p. 100; 
omnibus to Kiissnach in 1/2 lir. ; path to the Rigi, p. 87.) 

On the E. bank lies the village of Walchuujl, (* Stern ]\ farther 
on, St. Adrian, at the foot of the Rossberg (see p. 100), which on 
this side is clothed with wood and pasture. As Arth is approached, 
one of theMythenof Schwyz (p. 101) peeps from behind the Rossberg. 

Arth (1345'; *Adler, with garden on the lake ; *H6t. Rigi; Schliis- 
sel) lies at the S. end of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross- 
berg, but not exposed to the landslips of the latter, the strata of 
which dip in another direction. The Church, erected in 1677, con- 
tains a silver cup and vase captured at Grandson in 1476. 

Arth-Rigi Railway, see p. 86. — From Arth fo Kiissnach and Lucerne, 
see p. 100. 

ii. From Lucerne to Kiissnach and Arth. 

Steamboat from Lucerne to (8 M.) Kiissnacli, 1 hr. ; Post-Omnibus 
from Kiissnacli to (2 M.) stat. Immensee thrice daily in 25 min., Railway 
from Immensee to (5 M.) Arth-Goldau in 19 minutes. (From Lucerne by 
Rothkreuz to Arth-Goldau 55-75 min. ; see pp. 99, 100.) 

Departure from Lucerne, see p. 77. The steamer touches at 
Pens. Seeburg Qp.lS), rounds the promontory oi Meggenhorn(jp.78\ 
and enters the Bay of Kiissnach. To the left, near stat. Vorder- 
Meggen, rises the picturesque chateau of Neu-Habsburg , behind 
which peeps the ancient tower of the castle of that name, once a 
frequent resort of the Emp. Rudolph when Count of Hapsburg, 
and destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. The incident which in- 
duced Rudolph to present his horse to the priest is said to have 
occurred here (see Schiller's ballad, 'The Count of Hapsburg'). 

Stat. Hinter-Meggen (*Kurhaus ^' Pens. Gottlieben, suitable for 
some stay, prettily situated Y4M. from the lake, 5-9 fr.). The steamer 
now crosses to Greppen, skirts the beautiful wooded slopes of the 
Rigi, and soon reaches — 

8M. Kiissnach or Kilssnacht (^i3%' ; pop. 2922; *ndt. du Lac, 
with garden on the lake,R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. ; *Schioarzer Adler ; 
RiJssli; Tell: *Pens. Sigwart), a village prettily situated at the N. 
end of this bay of the lake. Omnibus to Immensee from the land- 
ing place; one-horse carr. 3 fr. — Ascent of the Rigi, see p. 87. 

The road ascends through the 'Hohle Gasse' or 'hollow lane' ; 
see Schiller's Tell), now half filled up, but still deserving the name 
at one point where it is shaded by lofty beeches. At the upper end 
of it, 11/4 M. from Kiissnach, to the left, is Tell's Chapel (1585'), 
rebuilt in 1834, marking the spot where the tyrant Gessler is said 
to have been shot by Tell. Over the door is a painting of the event, 
with an inscription. 

By the (1/2 M.) inn *Zut Eiche, the road divides. A few paces 
to the right is stat. Immensee- Kiissnach (p. 100). The road to the 
left descends to ('/i^O the village of Immensee (see above). 



96 

29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and 
Brunnen. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 76. 

30 M. Railwat to (IOV2 M.) Einsiedeln in 1 hr. (fare 2 fr. or 1 fr. 
50 c). Diligence from Einsiedeln to (19V2 M.) Brunnen twice daily in 
3V4 lirs. (to Schwyz in 23/4 brs.)i fare 4 fr. 75 c. By taking the train to 
Biberbruck and the diligence thence to Brunnen, the traveller may reach the 
latter from Wadenswyl without passing Einsiedeln. — One-horse carr. from 
Einsiedeln to Brunnen in 8^/4 hrs. , 17 fr. ; two-horse carr. from Biber- 
bruck to Brunnen 25 fr. 

Wadenswyl , see p. 40. The line (gradient 1 : 50) gradually 
ascends the fertile slopes on the S. hank of the Lake of Ziirich, com- 
manding heautiful views of the lake and the islands of Lutzelau and 
Ufnau (p. 40). On a hill to the right is the ruin of Alt- Wadenswyl. 
2M. Burghalden; 3^/4 M. Samstagern (IV4M. to the S.W. of which 
is the whey-cure estab. of Hiitten, p. 40). Beyond (51/2 M.) Schin- 
dellegi (2483' ; *Freihof ; HirscK), we cross the brawling Sihl. Now 
that we have quitted the fertile bank of the lake, the scenery sud- 
denly assumes a more Alpine character. The line rounds the E. 
slopes of the Hohe Rhonen (4042'), and approaches the Alp, 
which falls into the Sihl here. Towards the S. appear the Mythen 
(p. 101). Beyond (71/2 M.) Biberbruck (2730'; Post), where the 
Biber falls into the Alp, the Glarus Mts., bounded on the left by 
the pyramidal Kopfenstock(6240'), form the background. 

Pleasant excursion from Biberbruck (by road Vj-2, footpath I'/i tr.) 
to the top of the Gottschalkenberg (3780' ,• ''Inn), the W. prolongation 
of the Sohe Rhonen (see above), commanding a line view of the Alps. 
The descent may be made to (21/2 M. ) Aegeri (p. 98), to (IV2 hr-) Richterswyl 
(p. 40), or by Menzingen to (6 M.) Ztig (p. 71). 

The train follows the narrow Alpthal (several cuttings and em- 
bankments, and a short tunnel), and soon reaches the basin of 
(IOV2 M.) Einsiedeln (see below). 

Fkom Rappeeswyl to Einsiedeln. By the lake-viaduct to Burden 
and Pfdffikon (rail, in 10 min.), see p. 41. A narrow road commanding 
fine views of the lake ascends in windings, past the Pens. Lugete, to the 
(3 M.) pass of theEtzel (3255'; poor Inn), with the \C'hapel of St. Meinrad. 
The Hoch-Etzel (3615'; steep ascent of '/a br. from the inn) is wooded, and 
commands no view, but the -Schonboden (3523'), V* br. to the E., affords 
a splendid view of the lake, the Limmatthal as far as Baden , the Alps of 
Appenzell and Glarus, the Siblthal and Alpthal, with Einsiedeln, the 
Mythen of Schwyz, the Rossberg, and the Rigi ; to the W. rises the Hohe 
Rhonen (4042'), locally called Dreilanderstein from the stone at the top 
marking the boundaries of cantons Ziirich, Zug, and Schwyz. Travellers 
bound for Einsiedeln may from the Schonboden descend towards the S.W. 
direct to Egg, visible below, cross the Sihl, and join the road from the 
Etzel. — From the Etzel Inn the road descends to the (2/4 M.) Teu/elsbriicke 
(2200') over the iSilU. The famous Paracelsus (d. 1541 at Salzburg) is said 
to have been born or to have once lived here. Then 3^4 M. to Einsiedeln. 

Einsiedeln (2890'; pop. 8513; ^Pfau, R. & A. 21/2, B. from 1, 
D. 3, S. 21/2 fr. ; *Sonne; DreiKUnige; *Adler; Schwan), or Notre- 
Dame-des-Ermites ( Monaster ium Eremitarum), in a green valley, 
watered by the Alpbach, vies with Rome and Loreto in Italy, St. 
Jago de Compostella in Spain, and Mariazell in Styria as one of 



EINSIEDELN. ^21). Route. 97 

the most famous pilgrim-resorts in the world. Its 'foundation is at- 
tributed to Count Meinrad of Sulgen, who built a chapel here in 
honour of a wonder-working image of the Virgin presented to him 
by the Abbess Hildegard of Zurich. After the death of Meinrad, 
who was assassinated in 861, a monastery of Benedictine Hermits 
('Einsiedler') sprang up here. In 1294 it was created an indepen- 
dent principality by Emp. Rudolph of Hapsburg, and owing to the 
constantly increasing throng of pilgrims which it attracted soon vied 
with St. Gallen as one of the richest monasteries in Switzerland. 

In the large open space between the houses (a great many of 
which are inns for the entertainment of the pilgrims) and the con- 
spicuous buildings of the monastery rises a black marble Fountain 
with fourteen jets, surmounted by an image of the Virgin , from 
which the pilgrims are wont to drink. Under the Arcades , which 
form a semicircular approach to the church on the right and left, 
as well as in the Platz itself, there are numerous stalls for the sale of 
prayer-books, images of saints, rosaries, medals, crucifixes, and 
other 'devotional' objects. So great is the demand for engravings, 
religious works, and other souvenirs of the place, that at Benziger 
i-S' Co.'s establishment no fewer than 700 workmen are employed in 
printing and stereotyping, engraving on wood and zinc, chromo- 
lithographing, book -binding, etc. The pilgrims, who come chiefly 
from Switzerland, Bavaria, Swabia, Baden, and Alsace, number about 
150,000 annually. The greatest festival takes place on 14th Sept. 

The extensive Abbey Buildings, in the Italian style, which were 
re-erected for the sixth or seventh time in 1704-19, are 148 yds. 
long , 41 yds. of which are occupied by the Church and its two 
slender towers. On the right and left of the entrance are Statues of 
the Emperors Otho I. and Henry II., two benefactors of the Abbey. 

The Interior of the church is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble, 
and pictures of little value. In the nave , isolated from the rest of the 
l)uilding, stands the Chapel of the Virgin, of black marble , the 'Sanc- 
tum Sanctorum', with a grating, through which, illuminated by a solitary 
lamp, a small Image of the Virgin and Child is visible, richly attired, and 
decked with crowns of gold and precious stones. At the back of the 
chapel is the inscription : '■Deiparae Virgini Casparus Comes in Altaembs 
Oallara et Vadutz Per/ecil Anno Saliilis mdcxxxii.' In the chapel to the 
right a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir an Assumption by the same 
artist, skilfully restored by Deschwanden in 1858. The Treasury, once so 
rich, was despoiled by the French in 1798. The Abbey contains a well- 
arranged Library of 26,CKX) volumes, chiefly historical, a number of MSS., 
and a small natural history collection. The Fukstensaal is hung with 
good life-size portraits, including those of Pius IX. and the emperors 
William I., Francis Joseph, and Napoleon III. The Private Chapel of 
the abbot is adorned with paintings of ecclesiastical events. — Connected 
with the Abbey are a Seminary and a Lyceum. 

Zwingli was pastor of Einsiedeln from 1515 to 1519; and the eflect 
of his preaching was such, that in 1517, on the anniversary festival, the 
monks left their cells, and the Abbey was for a time quite deserted. 

The Herrenberg (3648'), a hill near the Abbey, commands a 
beautiful view of the neighbourhood. 



Baedekeb, Switiierland. 13th Edition. 



98 Route 29. ROTHENTHURM. 

From Einsiedbln to Schwyz and Brunnkn. The high-road 
leads towards the N.W. to — 

3 M. Biherbruck (p. 96), and then turns to the S. to (21/4 M.) 
AUmatt (3035'), a poor hamlet of weavers on a large moor, to which 
a cart-track leads direct from Einsiedeln in 1 hr. across the lofty 
plain of Katzenstrick (3455'; Inn at the top). 

8 M. Rothenthurm (3050'; *Ochs), where the long hack of 
the Rigi and the hotels on the Kulm hecome visible, is named 
after a red tower belonging to fortifications (Letze) once erected by 
the Schwyzers to protect their N.W. boundary. In the vicinity, 
on the E. slope of the Morjrar/en (see below), on 2nd May, 1798, the 
Schwyzers under Reding defeated the French, who lost 2000 men. 
The road traverses monotonous pastures, passing Biberegg (3110') 
on the left, and then descends in numerous windings. In the gorge 
far below flows the Steinen-Aa. 

10 M. Sattel (2730'; Neue Krone, on the road, Alte Krone, in 
the village) lies above the new road. 

From Sattel to Unter-Aegeri. 6' '2 M., diligence daily in 1 hr., passing 
the pretty Aegeri-See (2385'). On the Morgarten, the hill on the S.E. side 
of the lake, on 16th Nov. 1315, the Confederates won their first victory 
over their Hapsburg oppressors commanded by Leopold of Austria. A 
memorial chapel, containing a representation of the battle , was erected 
at St. Jakob, s/j M. to the N. of Sattel and 1 M. from the S.E. end of the 
lake. A commemoration service is held here annually on the day of the 
battle. At the W. end of the lake are the villages of (4 M.) Ober- and 
(I1/2 M.) Unter-Aegeri C Post; 'Hot. Henggeler), with a new Gothic church, 
prettily situated at the mouth of the Lorze (lake-baths). Ascent of the 
Zuger Berg (p. 71) 8/4 hr. ; of the Gottschallenherg (p. 96) i'A hr. The 
"Rossherg fp. 100), may be ascended throvigh the Hurithal and over the 
Jios.ibergalp in 2'/2 hrs. — From Ober-Acgeri to Zug diligence twice daily 
in IV2 hr. 

From Sattel to Goidau, 5'/2 M., diligence twice daily in 3/4 hour. 
The road leads at first high above the deep ravine of the Steinen-An, 
passing the P/4 M.) Ecce-Homo Chapel (2410'), where the old road to 
Schwyz by Steinen (p. 100) diverges to the left. It then skirts the Rossherg 
(p. 100), passes Steinerherg (*Rossli), whence the Wildspitz (see p. 100) is 
easily ascended in 3 hrs., and leads across the scene of the Goldau land- 
slip to ih?li M.) Stat. Arth- Goldau (p. 100). 

The ScHLAGSTRAssE , as the new road from Sattel to Schwyz is 
called, crosses the Steinen-Aa and descends on the W. slope of the 
JJacken (see below), affording beautiful views of the fertile valley of 
Steinen, the Lake of Lowerz with the Schwanau, the scene of the 
Goldau landslip, and the Rigi. At (4 M.) Auf der Burg (*Inn) 
Schwyz and the Mythen become visible. 'Thence to stat. Seewen 
11/4 M., to Schwyz 2 M. 

I61/9 M. Schwyz, 1 M. from the Schwyz-Seeuien station on the 
St. Gotthard line (p. 100). 

From Einsiedeln to Schwtz over the Hacken (3V2 hrs.), destitute 
of shade, and very disagreeable in bad weather. We ascend the monoton- 
ous Alplhal (with the nunnery oi Au on the right) to the (l'/2 hr.) village 
of Alpthal (3258'; 'Stern), where the somewhat rough and steep log-path, 
ascending the Hacken begins. In 1/2 hr. we reach a point where the 
space between the two Mythen (p. 101), shaped like the letter V, is 



ROTHKREUZ. 30. Route. 99 

distinctly observed, and in 1/2 Iir. more the Inn on the Hacken Pass 
(4588'), which commands a splendid view of the lakes of Lucerne and 
Lowerz, etc. (The view is still finer from the Hochsluckli, 5105', '/2 ^^• 
higher up, to the N., and embraces the K. part of the lake and the town 
of Ziirich.) Descent to (i hr.) Schwyz steep and stony. 

Fkom Einsiedeln to Schwtz over the Iberger Egg , 13 M. Good 
road through the Sihlthal or Euthal by Steinhach and Eulhal to (8 M.) 
Iberg (34S3'); thence to the Iberger Egg (4823') or Heilighauschen, afford- 
ing a fine survey of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps, and by Biilisherg 
and Rickenhach to (5 M.) Schwyz. 

The road from Schwyz to (3 M.) Brunnen (St. Gotthard Railway, 
see p. 101) crosses the Mucta (p. 101) at Ibach, and passes Jngen- 
bohl, with its pilgrimage-church and the nunnery of Mariabilf, 
founded in 1855. 

I9V2 M. Brunnen, see p. 81. 

30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard 
Railway. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 76, 84, 118, 102, 108, 372. 

t09 M. Railway. Express in 5^4; ordinary trains in 7'/2 hrs. ; fares 
2ifr. 60, 17 fr. 20, 12 fr. 30 c. (To Lugano 127'/2 BI., express in 6V4 hrs.; 
29 fr. 30, 20 fr. 50, 14 fr. 66 c. ; to Milan 176 M., in 9V4 hrs.; 36 fr. 65, 
18 fr. 5 c.) Rothki-euz (p. 71), a station between Zug and Lucerne, the 
.starting-point of the St. Gotthard line, is reached by express from Ziirich 
in about IV2 hr. ; from Bale by Lucerne in 3 hrs., or by Aaraxi or by 
Brugg and Mvri in 3'/2-4'/4 hrs. — For the day express there is a table 
d'hote at Goschenen, where the traveller should be careful to avoid an 
involuntary change of carriages, or even of trains. In the great tunnel it 
is unnecessary to close the windows (comp. p. 105) , but this should be 
done in the curved or loop-tunnels, especially in ascending. Finest views 
from Lucerne to Fluelen to the right, from Fliielen to Goschenen to the 
left, and from Airolo to Bellinzona to the right. These are seen most 
comfortably from the open galleries of the new saloon-carriages (1st & 
2nd class). 

The '"St. Gotthard Railway, constructed in 1872-82 at a cost of 
238 million francs - is one of the grandest achievements of modern 
times. It includes the Immensee, Goldau, Fluelen, Bellinzon;i, Lugano, 
and Chiasso (128 M.), the Bellinzona and Locarno (I31/2 M.) and the 
Bellinzona, Magndino, and Pino (17 M.) lines. The highest point of the 
line, in the middle of the great tunnel , is 3787' above the sea-level, and 
the maximum gradient is about 1' in 4'. At places the ascent is rendered 
more gradual by means of curved tunnels, piercing the sides of the 
valley; there are three such tunnels on the N. side, and four on the S. 
side of the mountain (comp. Map, p. 103). Altogether the line has 56 
tunnels (of an aggregate length of 251/2 M.), 32 bridges, 10 viaducts, and 24 
minor bridges. In order to examine the most interesting structure of the 
line itself, the traveller should drive in an open carriage or walk from Amsteg 
to Goschenen (12 M.) and from Airolo to Giornico (15 31.1. Those who are not 
pressed for time should take the steamboat from Lucerne to Fliielen, in 
preference to the train; or, if they have not yet visited the Rigi, they 
may take the railway to Eothkreuz, Arth-Goldau, the Eigi-Kulm, and 
Vitznau, and the steamer thence to Fliielen. 

From Lucerne to (11 M.) Rothkreuz (1410'), see p. 71. Our 
line diverges to the right, traversing a hilly and wooded tract. To 
the right the Rigi, the Uii and Engelberg Alps, and Pilatus. Be- 
fore reaching Immensee (p. 95), which lies below us, on the left, 

7* 



100 Route 30. GOLDAU. From Lucerne 

we obtain a survey of the E. part of the Lake of Zug (p. 94). On 
the N. bank lies Walchiryl; then St. Adrian (p. 95). 

16 M. Immensee - Kiissnach (1585'). Omnibus to Kussnach 
in 25 niin. (p. 95 ; TelVs Chapel, at the end of the ^Hohle Gasse\ 
is 1/2 M. from the station). To the right the wooded slopes of the 
Rigi, with the Kulm Hotel far above us (p. 88). 

The train runs high above the Lake of Zug , passing through 
several cuttings. At the E. end of the lake, on the left, lies the 
thriving village of Arth (p. 95), at the foot of the wooded Ross- 
berg, behind which rise the Mythen (see below). Threading the 
Rindelfluh Tunnel (2'20yds.) and several rock-cuttings, we reach — 

21 M. Arth -Goldau (1845'; Rail. Restaurant; Hof Ooldau, a.t 
the station; *Rdssli, in the village of Goldau), situated on the 
scene of the great Goldau Landslip, which occurred on Sept. 
2nd, 1806. This landslip, which descended from the Gnippen 
(5127'), the W. summit of the Rossberg, buried four villages with 
457 of their inhabitants. The railway traverses part of this scene 
of desolation, which extends a considerable way up the Rigi. Time 
has covered the fragments of rock with moss and other vegetation, 
and pools of stagnant water have been formed between them at places. 
The track of the landslip may be distinctly traced on the side of the 
Rossberg, which is still entirely barren. 

The "Rossberg (highest peak, the Wildspitz, 5190') may be ascended 
without difficulty in 3 hrs. from Sieinerberg (2063'; "Rossli), 2V4 M. from 
Arth -Goldau and l'/4 M. from Steinen, via Eof, Schtcand, and the Boss- 
berghiitte (4183'). At the top, which commands a line view (Panorama by 
Imfeld), is the Hotel Rossberg-Knlm. — The descent may be made to 
Aegevi (p. 98). 

On the slope to the left lie the houses of Steinerberg (p. 98) ; 
on the right, high above, is the Kurhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 90). 
The train rounds the pretty Lowerzer See (1475'; 2^/4 M. long). 
To the right lies the village of Lowerz , and in the middle of the 
lake tlie island of Schicanau with its ruined castle, a chapel, and 
a fisherman's house (Inn ; visit by boat from Lowerz or Seeweu in 
25 min.). — 24'/2 M. Steinen (1525' ; Rossli), a considerable village 
in a fertile situation, the traditional birthplace of Werner Stauff- 
acher[p. 82). On the supposed site of his house stands the Chapel of 
the Holy Rood with old frescoes, which is said to have been erected 
in 1400. The train crosses the Steinen-Aa to — • 

26 m. Schwyz-Seewen. The village of /Sceu-cn (1515'; *R6ssli; 
*Stern), to the W.of the line, at the foot of the E. spur of the Rigi, 
has a chalybeate bath which attracts visitors. About 1 M. to the E. 
lies Schwyz (1685'; pop. 6624; *Rossli, 11., L., & A. 2-3 fr. ; 
*HdtelHediger, same charges), a straggling town, lying picturesquely 
at the base and on the slopes of the Little Mythen (5955') with its two 
peaks, and the Great Mythen (6245'). The Parish Church (1774) is 
considered one of the handsomest in Switzerland. The ToiDn Hall 
contains portraits of 43 'landammanns' (magistrates) from 1534 






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to Bellinzonn. LAKE OF URI. SO. Route. 101 

downwards, and an old carved ceiling. The large Jesuit Monastery, 
above the town, is now a grammar-school. 

The ~ Great Mythen (6245': S'/z hrs. ; guide 6 fr. , unnecessary for the 
experienced ; horse to the Holzegg 8-10 fr.), ascended without difficulty by 
a new path, is a magnificent point of view, hardly inferior to the Rigi 
and Pilatus. Road from Schwyz to (1 M.) Rickenbach (Stern, good, pens. 
4 fr.); bridle-path thence to the (2 hrs.) Holzegg (4642': small Inn), which 
may also be reached by a direct path from Schwyz via the Holle and the 
pastures of Hasli and flolz (guide desirable). — From Brunnen by Ibacli 
and (3 M.) Rickenbach to the Holzegg in 3 hrs. , Schwyz remaining on the 
left. — Good path from Einsiedein by AlpDial to the Holzegg in 2^/4 hrs. 
— From the Holzegg the new Mythen path (railings at the steepest partsj 
ascends in 49 zigzags on the E. side of the mountain, and then follows a 
narrow arete to the (l'/4 br.) summit (*Inn, plain, 10 beds). Good panorama 
by A. Heim. 

A very attractive walk may be taken from Schwyz to the Suicoroir 
Bridge in the Muotaihal , returning via Ober-Schonenbuch (2 hrs. in all); 
comp. p. 65. 

We now turn to the S. (passing the Frohnalpstock on the left, 
with the Kurhaus Stoos far above us, p. 81), cross the Muota 
near Ingenbohl, and reach — 

281/2 M. Brunnen (1435'; EaU. Restaurant ; p.8i), the most fre- 
quented spot on the Lake of Lucerne. (Station on the N.W. side, 
Y.2 M. from the lake.) 

Passing through a tunnel under the Gutsch and the Axen- 
strasse (p. 82), the train now reaches the *Lake of TJri, or S.E. 
bay of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 82), and is carried along its bank 
by a series of tunnels and rock-cuttings. Splendid views of the 
lake to the right. High above it, on the opposite bank, lie the 
houses of Seelisberg, at the foot of which are the Mythenstein and 
Riitli (p. 82); and farther to the left towers the Uri-Rothstock with 
its glacier (p. 84). We pass through the Hochfluh Tunnel 
(640 yds.), the St. Franciseus Tunnel (212 yds.'), and the Oelherg 
Tunnel (2169 yds.), the longest but one on the line. 321/2 M. 
Sisikon, at the mouth of the narrow Eiemenstaldenthal (p. 82). 
Crossing the Axenstrasse, and enjoying fine glimpses of the lake 
and the Uri-Rothstock to the right, we traverse the Stutzeck Tunnel 
(1082 yds.) and others, passing Tell's Platte (chapel not visible; 
p. 83), the Axenherg (3670' long), and the Sulzeck, to — 

36 M. Fliielen (1435'; Rail. Restaurant; comp. p. 83), the port 
of Uri, and the starting-point of the old high-road over the St. 
Gotthard (pp. 103, 108). 

We now ascend the broad lower Reussthal, with the Bristen- 
stockQp. 103) in the background, and the two Windgdllen (p. 114) 
to the left of it. 

38 xM. Altdorf, or ^«or/" (1465'; pop. 2577; Hotel de la Gare, 
plain, R. 1-2 fr.; in the village, *Schliissel ; *Ldwe; Krone; *Tell, 
with garden), the capital of Canton Uri, 1 M. from the station, lies 
in a fertile valley surrounded by mountains. 

This pleasant little town is the traditional scene of the exploits of 
William Tell, the liberator of Switzerland from the Austrian yoke. A colos- 
sal Statue of Tell, in plaster, erected in 1861, is said to occupy the spot 



102 Route 30. ERSTFELD. From Lucerne 

whenco the intrepid archer aimed at tlie apple placed on his son's head by 
order of the tyrant Gessler. About 150 paces distant stands a fountain, 
with a statue of Besler, a magistrate of the town, erected on the supposed 
site of the lime-tree by which Tell's child stood while awaiting his father's 
arrow, and which is said to have flourished here till 1567. Some say that 
the lime-tree was 30 paces farther back, on the ground where the tower now 
stands; but the latter is known to have existed before the 14th century. 

The Church contains a Madonna in relief, by Imhof. The Ca- 
puchin Monastery, above the church, and the neighbouring Pavilion 
Waldeck command beautiful views. (Ascent near the tower, or 
from below Tell's statue.) Above the monastery lies the Bannwald, 
a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is proscribed , as it 
protects Altdorf from falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, Act iii. Scene 3). 

To the right, beyond the town, is a Nunnery^ to the left the Arsenal; 
then, about 1 M. to the left, the village of Biirglen (1805'; Tell), prettily 
situated on a height at the entrance to the Schachenthal (p. 04), the tra- 
ditional birth-place of Tell. The supposed site of his house is marked 
by a Chapel, erected in 1522, and adorned with paintings of his exploits. 

Through the Schdchenthal and over the Klaiisen to Slachelberg, see 
R. 20. A glimpse at the Schichenthal is best obtained by ascending from 
Weitefschwanden or Spivingen (p. 64) in about l>/2 hr. to one of the farm- 
houses in the Kessel {4505'), which aflford a most picturesque survey of the 
grand head of the valley (Scheerhorn, Griesgletscher, Kammlistock , and 
Claridenstock) , with beautiful fresh pastures and dark pine-forest in the 
foreground. — The Ross-Stock (S080' ; 5 hrs. ; with guide), a splendid point 
of view, is ascended from Biirglen, via the Metlenthal-Alp. Descent, if 
preferred, through the Riemenstaldenthal to Sisikon (p. 82). 

The train now crosses the wild Schdchenbach in its artificial bed, 
near its confluence with the Reuss. From among fruit-trees to the 
left peeps the pretty church of Schattorf. To the right, beyond the 
Reuss, we observe the church-tower and the ruined castle ofAttiny- 
hausen, in which the Baron Werner of Attinghausen, one of the 
characters in Schiller's Tell, is said to have died in 1307. The back- 
ground of the valley towards the S. is formed by the pyramidal Bri- 
stenstock (p. 103); to the right rise the bold precipices of the Gitschen 
(8335') and the Bockli (6810'}; to the left the Mittagstock (6663'), 
Belmistock (7933'), Hohe Faulen (8260'), and lastly the two Wlnd- 
(jdlleniGrosse, or Kalkstock, 10,463'; Kleine, or Sewelislock, 9800'J. 

417.2 M. Erstfeld (1503'-, Hof Erstfeld, Hot. Bahnhof, both at 
the station, unpretending), a large railway-depot, where the ascent 
begins and a heavier locomotive is attached to the train. The village 
lies on the opposite bank of the Reuss, at the mouth of the Erst- 
felder Thai, above which peep the jagged Spannijrter, the Engel- 
berg-Eothstock, and the strangely contorted Schlossberg Glacier. 

The interesting Erstfelder Thai (comp. Map, p. 118), flanked by steep 
and lofty mountains, extends to the Schlossberg Glacier (4 hrs.). At the 
head of the valley are two Alpine lakes, the gloomy Faulensee, '/o hr. from 
the glacier, and the Obersee (6463'), ^/j ^r. farther to the S., at the base 
of the Kronlel or KrSnte (10,197'). The Faulenbach, which flows out of the 
latter, forms a beautiful fall. Fatiguing passes (10-11 hrs. ; for adepts 
only, with good guides) lead hence over the Schlossberg-Liicke (8635') and 
over the Spannort-Joch (9610') to Engelberg (comp. p. 119). 

From Erstfeld or Altdorf over the Surenen to Engelberg, see p. 120. 

The Reussthal narrows, and the train begins to ascend on the 
right bank, 45 M. Stat. Amsteg (1795'), above iSi^enen, a village in 



to Bellinzona. AMSTEG. 30. Route. 103 

the midst of fruit-trees. Near the station , on a rocky hill to the 
right, are the ruins of Zwing-Vri, traditionally a castle of Gessler. 
About 1 M. farther on lies the village of Amsteg (1760' ; *Stern, or 
Post; *Hirsch; *Freihof; *Enyel; in all, R. 11/2-2, 'pens'. 4-6 fr.), 
prettily situated at the mouth of the Maderaner That, through which 
the Karstelenbach descends to the Reuss. 

''Maderaner Thal (bridle-path in 3V4 brs. to the otel Alpenclub), 
see R. 32. — Over the Kriizli Pass or the Bvunni Pass to Disentis and over 
the Clariden Pass to Stachelberg^ see p. 114. 

The Bristenstock (10,090'; 7-8 hrs.; very fatiguing; guide 20 fr.), as- 
cended from Amsteg by the Bristenalp and the Blackialp and past the small 
Bristen-HneU (7090'j, atlbrds a grand but hardly repaying panorama. De- 
scent to the Etzlithal or FellWial difficult. — Oberalpstock (10,925'), Kleine 
and Grosse Windgalle (9800' and 10,463'), etc., see pp. 113, 114. — The Hohe 
Faulen (8260'; 5 hrs., vs^ith guide; not difficult and attractive) may be as- 
cended from Silenen through the Evithal and over the Sirengmatt, Mhonen, 
and Balmeten Alps. 

The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to Goschenen (comp. Map, p. 118) 
should be traversed on foot (or in an open carriage), both for the sake of 
the scenery and for the opportunity it affords of examining the interesting 
railway. It crosses the Karstelenbach and then the Reuss by a bridge of two 
arches. To the left runs the railway; below us the Reuss dashes through its 
deep ravine, forming a succession of waterfalls. In the early summer huge 
masses of avalanche-snow, looking like earth or detritus, are seen in some 
of the gorges. Beyond (I'A M.) Inschi (2168'; Lamm) we pass a fall of the 
Inschi-Alphach. A picturesquely situated bridge carries the road back to the 
right bank of the Reuss (the railway remaining on the left bank), on which 
lies (l'/2 M.) Meiischlingen, with a chapel. About '/2 M. farther on we cross the 
Fellibac/i. (Through the narrow Felli-Thal or Felleneii-Thal, which abounds 
in crystals, the Oberalp-See may be reached by the Felli-Lucke in 6 hrs. ; 
p. 365.) On the hill opposite stands the hamlet of Ourtnellen (3048'). 
Beyond the village of Wyler is (3 M.) a third bridge C2660'), called the 
Pfaffensprung ('priest's leap', from the tradition that a monk once leaped 
across the stream here with a girl in his arms), by which the road re- 
crosses to the left bank. The first of the curved tunnels of the railway 
begins here (see below). Far below, the river dashes through a narrow gorge. 
^Mew beautiful in both directions. The road crosses the turbulent ileieii- 
Renss (p. 127) .shortly before reaching iV/-2 M.) Wasen (p. 104). To the 
right are the three railway-bridges. A path to the right, 50 yds. beyond 
the bridge, cuts off the windings of the road which ascends to the loftily 
situated church. 

Kear (^,'4 M.) Wattingen (2998') is the fourth bridge over the Reuss, 
above which, to the right, is a fall of the Rohrbach (p. 104). The (1 M.) fifth 
bridge (Sehonibriick, 3212') crosses to the left bank of the Reuss. To the 
left rises the Teiifelsslein, a huge mass of rock. The ne.xt place (I'/a M.) 
is Goschenen (3640'; p. 104). Thence to Andermatt, see p. 108. 

The most interesting part of the line begins here. Above the 
village of Amsteg it pierces a projecting rock by means of the Wmrf- 
gdUe Tunnel (1828'; 189 yds. long), crosses the Karstelenbach by 
an imposing iron bridge (147yds. long, 177' high; line view of the 
deeply-cut Maderaner Thai, with the Grosse Windgalle, to the left, 
and of the Reussthal to the right), and is then carried through the 
slope of the Bristenstock, which is much exposed to avalanches, by 
means of the two Bristenlaui Tunnels (436 yds. and 234 yds. long), 
and across the brawling Reuss by an iron bridge 256' high. We 
now follow the left bank of the picturesque Reussthal (views to the 
left), traverse the Inschi Tunnel (96 yds.), cross the Inschi-Alphach 



104 Route 30. GOSCHENEN. From Lucerne 

and the Zraggenthal (viaduct about 100 yds. long), thread the short 
Zgraytjen, Breiten^ and Meitschlinger tunnels and a long cutting, 
and skirt tlie hillside by a viaduct to (50 M.) Gurtnellen ('2297' J. 

Above Gurtnellen we come to one of the most remarkable parts 
of the line, which in order to facilitate the ascent to Goschenen 
(see below) passes through three curved tunnels and round a wide 
bend. It crosses the Gornerenhach and the Hiigrigcnbach (line 
waterfall on the right), enters, near the Pfaffensprung-Briicke 
(p. 103), the Pfaffensprung Loop Tunnel (1635 yds., 3 min.), in 
which it mounts 115', goes through the short Miihle Tunnel, re-cross- 
es the Hagrigenbach (overlooking the Pfaffensprung bridge on the 
left), and then traverses the Milhren Tunnel (2822'; 93 yds. long). 
Then follow a handsome bridge over the deep ravine of the Meien- 
reuss (p. 127), the Kirchberg Tunnel under the 'church-hill' of 
Wasen (330 yds.), a bridge across the Reuss to the left, theWattin- 
ger Loop Tunnel (1199 yds.; ascent of 76'), another bridge over 
the Reuss, and the Rohrbach Tunnel (242 yds.). 55 M. Wasen 
or Wassen (3055'), a considerable village {*H6t. des Alpes; *Ochs ; 
Krone ; '^Post Restaurant), with a loftily situated church command- 
ing an admirable survey of the bold structure of the railway. — 
Over the Sustin to Meiringen, see R. 37. 

The imposing *Mittlere Meienreuss Briicke (69 yds. long, 260' 
high) and the Leggistein Loop Tunnel (1204 yds. ; ascent of 82') 
carry us to the third or Upper Meienreuss Bridge (59 yds. long; 
148' high), beautifully situated. We then pass through the Meien- 
kreuz Tunnel (3250'; 84 yds. long), skirt the hillside, aiid obtain 
a view of Wasen and the windings just traversed. Opposite rises 
the Rienzer Stock (9785'). Crossing the Kellerbach and the Rohr- 
bach, the train passes through the Naxberg Tunnel ( 1719 yds. ; ascent 
of 118'), crosses the deep gorge of the Goschenen Reuss (bridge 
69 yds. long, 161' high; view of the Goschenenthal to the right, 
with the beautiful Dammafirn, p. 108), and reaches — 

69'/2 ^^1- Goschenen, or Geschenen (3640'; *RaU. Restaurant, D. 
3'/2fr. ; *H6t.Gdsche7ien, o-p^osite the station, R., L., & A. 32/4, I). 
3-4 fr. ; *Rdssli, V4M. from the station, R.&A. 2, B.IV4, »• 3fr. ; 
Hot. de la Gare; St. Gotthard; Lowe, moderate; Krone). — From 
Goschenen to Airolo by the St. Gotthard Road, 22 M., see R. 31. 

Immediately beyond the station the train crosses the Gotthard- 
Reuss (p. 109) by a bridge 105' high, and enters the great St. 
Gotthard Tunnel, which is 16,309 yds. (91/4 M.) in length, being 
2930 yds. (1-/3 M.) longer than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The 
central point is 3786' above the sea-level, from which it descends 
on both sides, about 6' in 1000' towards Goschenen and 2' in 1000' 
towards Airolo. The work was begun in June 1872, at Goschenen, 
and a month later at Airolo, and the boring was completed on 
29th Feb. 1880. During seven years and a half no fewer than 
2500 workmen were on an average employed here daily, and the 



to Bellinzonn. AIROLO. 30. Route. 105 

number sometimes rose to 3400. The cost was 563/4 million fr. 
(2,270, OOOi.). The boring machines used were on the improved 
Ferroux system, worked by compressed air. The tunnel, 28' broad 
and 21' high, is lined with masonry throughout, and is laid with 
a double line of rails. As a current of fresh air (temperature 70" 
Fahr.) constantly passes through the tunnel, it is unnecessary to 
close the windows. The tunnel runs at a depth of 1083' below An- 
dermatt, 6076' below the Kastelhorn (which rises above the centre 
of the tunnel), and 3350' below the Sella Lake. Express trains 
take 16 min. to pass through the tunnel, slow trains 25 min. ; lan- 
terns are placed on each side of the tunnel at intervals of 1000 
metres. To the right of the exit from the tunnel fortifications have 
recently been erected. 

691/2 M. Airolo (3755'; pop. 1733; *Posta, R., L. , & A. 
3-3V-2, D. 4, B. 11/4 fr. ; Hot. Airolo, R. & A. 21/2 fr. ; Hot. des 
Alpes, *Hdt. Lombardi, Hot. Rossi, all near the station), in the 
upper valley of the Ticino (^ValleLeventina, p. 106), the first Italian- 
Swiss village, rebuilt since a fire in 1877. 

A drive from Airolo to Giornico in an open carriage is very inter- 
esting (comp. p. 99; one-horse to Faido 10, to Giornico 19 fr.). — Bridle- 
path through the Val Bedreiio and over the JS'iifenen Pass to Wallis, see 
p. 303; over the iS. Giacomo Pass (7572') to the Falls of the Tosa, see p. 307. 
Through the Val Maggia to Locarno, see p. 429. Through the Val Ca- 
naria and over the Unteralp Pass (S3U3') to Andermatt (8 hrsO, fatiguing; 
the ascent very steep. Over the Bocca di Cadlimo (8387') to S. Maria (p. 366) 
in 8 hrs., attractive. — By Passo Bornengo to Val Maigels, see p. 364. 

Feom Airolo to Disentis through the Val Piora (10 hrs., guide, 
unnecessary, to Piora 6, to S. Maria 10 fr. ; porter, at the Hotel Lombardi 
at Airolo , 15 c. per kilogramme up to Piora, 10 c. down ; horse to Piora, 
3 hrs., 12 fr.). Descending the St. Gotthard road for s/4 M., we cross the 
Canaria to the left, and ascend to (20 min.) Madrono (4110'). After 1/4 hr. 
more the path ascends the slope to the left to (20 min.) Brugnasco (4548')- 
It then runs at nearly at the same level, overlooking the picturesque Val 
Ticino, and afterwards through wood. From (2/4 hr.) Altanca (4567'; Inn) 
we ascend to the left in zigzags past a small chapel to (40 min.) Valle (a 
spring by the wayside). The rock below it bears a very ancient inscription. 
In the gorge to the right are several picturesque waterfalls. Fine retro- 
spect of the mountains of Ticino. We next cross a rocky saddle to the 
0/2 hr.) sequestered Lake Ritom (6000'), on a hill to the left of which 
is the 'Hotel Piora (sheltered, and suitable for some stay; R. 2, B. 1, D. 4, 
pens. 7-9 fr.). Pine-woods close to the hotel. Several good points of view 
in the neighbourhood {Fongio, Plan'' Alto., Camoghi. Punta Nera, Taneda, etc.). 
In secluded basins lie six small lakes (and there are four others just beyond 
the ridges in the direction of the Val Cadlimo). Great variety of geological 
formations and of plants. — The path to /S. Maria (3V4 hrs. ; porter 7 fr.) 
leads round the lake, to the left. By the (20 min.) Bitom Chalets we ascend 
the slope to the left by a narrow path to the (20 min.) chapel of ^. Carlo. 
Crossing the brook, and passing a cross on the right (leaving the small lake 
of Cudagno. with its summer-hamlet to the left), we reach (',4 hr.) Piora, 
a poor hamlet, and (I/4 hr.) Murinascio, a group of huts. The path, indi- 
cated by crosses, leads straight on for 1,4 hr., and then ascends to the 
left. Farther on it always bears to the left. [The last huts of Piano de' 
Porci lie to the right, below us. Persons bound for Olivone may from 
this point cross direct by the Passo Cokimhe (7792'), between the Scat and 
Fiz Colmnhe, to the Casaccia hospice; p. 366.] We ascend the secluded 
Val Termine, with the Piz delC Uomo (9022') on the left, to the (^/t hr.) 



106 Route 30. FAIDO. From Lucerne 

summit of the TJomo Pass (7257' ; 10 min. before reaching which we pass 
a good spring by a heap of stones), with its deserted hut. Descent on the 
other side marshy at places. Before us to the right rises the Scopi, to 
the left in the distance the Todi chain. The (1 hr.) Hospice of St. Maria, 
see p. 3GG. Thence to Disentis, or across the Lukmanier to Olivone, see R. 95. 

Below Airolo the train crosses the Ticlno, whicli descends from 
the Vol Bedretto (p. 303), passes through the Stalvedro Tunnel 
(209 yds.), and enters the Slretto di Stalvedro. On the left hank of 
the Ticino the high-road runs through four rock-cuttings. The 
valley expands. 73 M. Ambri-Piotta. To the left lies Quinio. 
Beyond (76 M.) Eodi-Fiesso (3110' ; Hotel Monte Piottino') we come 
to one of the most curious parts of the line (comp.the map, p. 103). 
The Platifer (Monte Piottino) here projects into the valley from the 
N. ; the Ticino has forced its passage through the barrier, descend- 
ing in a series of falls through a wild rocky gorge to a lower region 
of the valley, while the railway accomplishes the descent by means 
of two circular tunnels. At Dazio Grande it crosses the Ticino 
(striking view down the valley), is carried through the Dazio 
Tunnel (388 yds.) and the short Artoito Tunnel, and enters the 
Fregyio Loop Tunnel (1712 yds.), from which it emerges into the 
Piottino Ravine, 118' lower down. It then recrosses the Ticino, at 
a point where the scenery is very fine, passes through the Monte 
Piottino and Pardorea tunnels, and descends 118' more by means 
of the Prato Loop Twnnei (1711 yds.), beyond which opens the 
beautiful valley of Faido. Crossing the Ticino by the Polmengo 
Bridge, and going through another tunnel, we reach — 

81 M. Faido (2352'; pop. 906; *H6t.-Pens. Suisse, *H6t. Faido, 
both at the station; *H6t.-Pens. Fransioli, pens., inch wine, 7fr. ; 
Angelo, R. & A. 21/0, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Prince of Wales, Italian; Hot. 
VelUi), the capital of the Leucnfma, very picturesquely situated. On 
the right the Piumogna descends to the Ticino in a fine waterfall. 

The Valle Leventina, or Valley of the Ticino, formerly belonged to 
Canton Uri, and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailifls, who 
purcliased their appointment from the Landsgemeinde, as was the custom 
in almost all the democratic cantons, as well as in the republics of anti- 
quity. A revolt broke out in 1755, but was suppressed with the aid ot the 
Swiss troops. The Fi-ench put an end to tliis mode of government in 1798, 
and in 1815 the Congress of Vienna formed the Leventina and other Italian 
districts into the new canton of Tessin or Ticino. 

From Faido over the Predelp Pass to the Lukmanier, see p. 366; over 
the Campolungo Pass to the Vul Maggia, see p. 429. 

The train now carries us through beautiful scenery, richly wood- 
ed with walnut and chestnut trees, on the left bank of the Ticino; 
the numerous campanili in the Italian style, crowning the hills, have 
a very picturesque effect. To the right lies Chiggiogna, with an old 
church. From the cliffs on both sides fall several cascades, the veil- 
like fall of the Cribiasca on the right, near (851/2 M.)Lavorgo, being 
the finest. Huge masses of rock lie scattered about, interspersed 
with fine chestnut-trees. Below Lavorgo the Ticino forces its way 
through tlie picturesque *Biascliina Ravine to a lower region of 



to Bellimona. BELLINZONA. 30. Route. 107 

the valley, and forms a fine waterfall, while the railway descends 
about 300' on the left bank by means of two loop-tunnels, one be- 
low the other in corkscrew fashion. We pass through the La Lume 
Tunnel (508 yds.}, cross the Fianotondo Viaduct (114 yds. long), 
and then enter the Fianotondo Loop Tunnel (1643 yds.; descent of 
115'}. Next follow the short Tourniquet Tunnel., the Travi Viaduct 
(67 yds.}, and the Travi Loop Tunnel (1706 yds. ; descent of 118'}, 
from which we emerge upon the floor of the lower Valle Leventina. 
Crossing the Ticino, we next reach — 

90 M. Giomico (1480'}. The large village (1295'; *Fosta; 
*Cervo^, picturesquely situated among vineyards on the left bank, 
l'/4 M. to the S., has an old Lombard tower and remains of fortifi- 
cations near the church of S. Maria di Castello. The well-preserved 
church of S. Niccolh da Mira, in the early Romanesque style, is said 
to occupy the site of a heathen temple. Below Giornico the train 
crosses the Ticino by a bridge 132 yds. long. On the right is the 
pretty fall of the Cramosina. — 94 M. Bodio (1086'; Posta^ Beyond 
Polleggio (Corona^ the Brenno descends from the Val Blegno (p. 366) 
on the left, and Is twice crossed by the line. The valley of the Ticino 
now expands and takes the name of Riviera down to the mouth of 
the Moesa. Luxuriant vines, chestnuts, walnuts, mulberries, and 
iig-trees now remind the traveller of his proximity to 'the garden of 
the earth, fair Italy'. The vines extend their dense foliage over 
wooden trellis-work supported by stone pillars, 6-10' in height. 

98 M. Biasca (^Rail. Restaurant ; in the village, 1 M. from the 
station, Union ^' Poste, unpretending), with an old Romanesque 
church on a hill (1112'}. A series of oratories near the station as- 
cends to the Fetronilla Chapel, loftily situated, near which is the 
beautiful *Froda or St. Fetronilla Waterfall. — To Olivone, and 
over the Lukmanier to Disentis, see R. 95. 

The train skirts the base of the richly clothed E. slopes of the 
valley, which is very hot and dusty in summer, and traverses two 
tunnels. lOl^/oM. Osogna (965'; PosJa) lies at the foot of an abrupt 
rock with a rounded summit. 105 M. Claro (1027') lies at the base 
of the Fizzo di Claro (8920'), a beautiful mountain with luxuriant 
pastures, on the slope of which, to the left, stands the monastery of 
S. Maria (2074'}. Beyond (1071/2 M.) Castione the train passes the 
mouth of the Val Mesocco (p. 377} and crosses the Moesa. To the 
left lies Arbedo (p. 377). We now approach Bellinzona, a picturesque- 
looking place, with lofty pinnacled walls and three old castles. 

109 M. Bellinzona, Ger. Bellenz (760'; pop. 3348; *Poste et 
Pens. Suisse, R., L., & A. 3, D. 4fr. ; *Angelo; Hot. Bellinzona; Rail. 
Restaurant), a.tov/n of quite Italian character,witli a handsome abbey- 
church of the 16th cent., is the capital of Canton Ticino. It is com- 
manded on the W. by the Castello Grande, on an isolated hill; on 
the E. by the Castello di Mezzo, or di Svilto, and the Castello Cor- 
bario or Corbi , the highest of the three (1502'). In the middle 



108 Route 31. GOSCHENEN-THAL. 

ages Bellinzona was strongly fortified by the Visconti and others, 
and was regarded as the key to the route from Lombardy to Ger- 
many. The fortifications have been partly restored of late. 

The three castles were the residences of the three Swiss BaililTs (comp. 
p. 106j , in whom the judicial and executive authority was vested. Each 
castle had a small garrison and a few cannons. The Caslello Grande, which 
affords a striking view, belonged to Uri, and is now used as a prison and 
arsenal (visitors admitted; fee). The Caslello di Mezzo belonged to Schwyz ; 
the upper, the Caslello Corbario, now in ruins, to Unterwalden. — Beauti- 
ful walk (IV4 hr. in all) towards the S. of the town; up the road to the 
highest castle, with charming views, but not quite up to the gate, where 
the hill becomes more level and is planted with lofty chestnuts ; then 
back, and through the vineyards to the conspicuous pilgrimage-chapel of 
S. Maria della Salute, another admirable point of view; lastly, to the left 
of the chapel, back to the station. 

Ascent of the Monte Camoghi (from Bellinzona 7-8 hrs.; with guide), 
see p. 425. — Over the Passo di S. Jorio to the Lake of Como, see p. 443. 

From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como, see R. 108; to Locarno, 
p. 426; to Laveno, p. 430. 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard. 

22 M. UinGENCE from Goschenen to Andermatt 4 times daily in 1 hr. 
(fare IV2, coupe 1 fr. 80 c.); to Ilospenthal 4 times in l'/2 hr. (2 fr. 25 or 
2 fr. 70 c.). No diligence from Hospenthal over the St. Gotthard. Omni- 
buses from the Goschenen station to the Andermatt (l-l'/z fr.) and Hospen- 
thal hotels (2 fr.). Carriage and pair from Goschenen to Andermatt or 
Hospenthal 10, to the Hospice 40, to Airolo 65 fr. ; from Andermatt to the 
Hospice 30, to Airolo 50 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 25 (there 
and back 30 fr.), to Airolo 45 fr. Carriage with one horse from Goschenen 
to Andermatt or Hospenthal 6 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 15 
(there and back 25 fr.), to Airolo 25 fr. 

The St. Gotthard was probably the most frequented of the Alpine 
passes down to the beginning of this century, but being crossed by a 
bridle-path only it was gradually deserted for the new roads over the Sim- 
plon, the Splugen, and the Bernardino. In 1820-32 the cantons of Uri 
and Ticino constructed the carriage-road, which for half-a-century was the 
scene of busy traffic ; but since the completion of the railway it has again 
become deserted. Travellers will, however, be repaid by a drive in an 
open carriage or a walk over the pass. Those whose chief object is to 
make e.Kcursions from the Hospice will reach it more quickly from Airolo 
than from Goschenen. 

Goschenen (3640'), on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 104. 

The Gbschenen-Thal (3 hrs. to the Goschenen-Alp, guide unnecessary; 
provisions should be taken) deserves a visit. A good path leads by .46- 
frutl to (fi 4hr.) Wicki (4350'), where the Voralper Reuss dashes from the 
Kallbrunnen- Kelde, a ravine on the right; then by St. Niklaus and the Brin- 
dlistaffel (5043') to the (i3'4 hr.) Gbschenen-Alp (6040' ; rustic Inn, with beds ; 
guides must be brought from Goschenen), grandly situated. To the W. 
descends the beautiful Dammnjirn from the Winterberg range (which cul- 
minates in the Dammastock and Rhonestock); and 1 hr. farther up the 
valley the Giischenen-Reuss i.ssues from the Kehle Glacier, imbedded be- 
tween the Winterberg and Steinberg. — A moderately easy and very in- 
teresting path (7 hrs., with guide) leads from the Giischenen-Alp over 
the Alpligen-Gletsc/ier and the Alpligen-Lucke (9110'), between the Loch- 
berg and Spitzberg (p. 115), to Realp (p. 115). The S.E. peak of the -Loch- 
berg (94(X)'), which atfords a splendid view of the Galenstock group and 
the Alps of the Valais as far as Mont Blanc, is easily ascended in '^ji hr. 
from the pass. — Several difficult passes, fit for experts only, cross from 
the Goschenen-Alp to the Rhone and Trift Glaciers (Winterjoch, Damma Pass, 



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DEVIL'S BRIDGE. 31. Route. 109 

Maasplankjoch ; comp. p. 126). Over the Susteii-Limmi (10,180') or the 
Tliierherg-Limmi (about 10,500') to the Steinalp, 9 hrs., laborious (see p. 12G). 
— Ascent of the Fleckistock()S/)(7>K6er5r, 11,214': guide 30 fr.") for experts only, 
difficult. We ascend from Wicki (see above) through the Kaltbvunnen-Kehle 
to the (11/4 hr.) Hornfeli-Alp (5850'; spend night). At the head of the 
valley, in view of the Wallenbiihljirn, we mount to the right to the FlUtien 
(7874'); then over loose stones and steep rock to the summit (6 hrs. from 
the Hornfeli-Alp). 

Atove the Goschenen station the *St. Gotthard Road crosses 
the Reuss by the Vordere, or Hdderli-Brucke (3720'). On the left 
are the railway-bridge and the N. end of the great tunnel. Here, 
1/4 M. beyond Goschenen, begins the sombre rocky defile of the 
*Sch611eneii (21/.2 M. long), bounded by lofty and almost perpendic- 
^ilar granite rocks, at the base of which dashes the Reuss. The road 
ascends by numerous windings, most of which may be cut off by 
footpaths or the old bridle-path passing the dilapidated Lanj/eBrt^cfee 
(a little above are the Goschenen water-works, with a considerable 
waterfall), and crossing the (I1/2 M.) Sprengibrilck (4048'). The 
road in the Schollenen is much exposed to avalanches, and at one of 
the most dangerous points is protected by a gallery, 60 yds. long, at 
the farther end of which is the bull's head of Uri. 

The road next crosses (3 M. from Goschenen) the (1 V2 ^^•) ^Devil's 
Bridge (^Teufelsbriicke, 4593'), amidst wUd and grand rocky scenery. 
The Reuss here falls in a picturesque cascade into an abyss 100' be- 
low, bedewing the bridge with its spray. The wind (aptly called 
'Hutschelm', or 'hat-rogue', by the natives) sometimes comes down 
the gorge in violent gusts, and endangers the hats of the unwary. 
The new bridge, built of granite in 1830, has a single arch of 26' 
span. The old bridge, 20' below, fell in 1888. 

A battle between the French and the Austrians took place here on 
14th Aug., 1799, with the result that the latter were compelled to retreat 
over theOberalp toDisentis. A month later the tide of fortune turned. Suvo- 
roff, after several sharp skirmishes in the Val Tremola (p. 112), with the aid 
of Rosenberg, who had crossed the Lukmanier and the Oberalp, drove the 
French before him. On the morning of 25th Sept. the Russians forced the 
passage of the Urner Loch with severe loss, but were again checked at the 
DeviTs Bridge, which was stoutly defended by the French. The latter at- 
tempted to blow up the bridge, but only succeeded in destroying a stone 
embankment by which it was approached. Kothing daunted, the Russians 
gallantly descended under galling fire to the bed of the Reuss, succeeded 
in crossing it and clambering up the opposite bank, and after a fierce 
conflict compelled their enemy to retreat to the Lake of Lucerne. 

Beyond the Devil's Bridge (cabaret; good collection of St. Gott- 
hard minerals) the road winds upwards, passing a chapel beside 
which a new fort is being built, to the (1/4 M.) Urner Loch (4642'), 
a tunnel TO yds. long cut through the rock in iTOT, originally broad 
enough for a bridle-path only. Prior to 1707 a hanging chain-bridge, 
called the Stciubende Brileke, conducted the traveller round the Teu- 
felsstein, through a constant shower of spray. 

The Valley of Urseren , upon which the road emerges from the 
dark Urner Loch , presents a striking contrast to the wild region 
just traversed. This peaceful valley (p. 115), with its green pastures 



ilO Route 31. ANDEUMATT. From Gbschenen 

watered by the Reuss , is about 8 M. in length and V2"l M. in 
breadth, and is surrounded by lofty and barren mountains partially 
covered with snow. Corn grows here but scantily, and trees are 
scarce. Winter lasts nearly eight months, and during the short 
summer fires are often necessary. — ^/^ M. — 

4 M. Andermatt. — Hotels: ■Hot.-Pens. Bellevue, a large hotel, 
in an open situation, '/4 M. from the village, R., L., & A. 3'/r5, B. II/2, 
lunch 3V'.;- K- 5 fr. (Kn;il. Church Service); adjacent, Hotel -Restaukant 
vv ToiRiSTE, moderate ; opposite, Hot.-Pess. Nagee, small ; "Grand Hotel 
Andermatt (opened in 1888) & Pens. Oberalp, at the upper end of the vil- 
lage; 'St. Gotthasd, R., L., & A. 31/2, D. 4 fr. ; *Drei KOnige, R. & A. 
2V2, B. 11/4, D. 21/2 fr.; Krone, moderate; Sonne. 

Andermatt (4738'; pop. 720), or Vrseren, Ital. Orsera, liy'4 M. 
from the Devil's Bridge , the principal village in the valley, is a 
winter resort of invalids. Adjoining the church is a charnel-house 
adorned with skulls bearing inscriptions (comp. p. 72). At the exit 
of the Urner Loch, beside the cliffs to the left, is a much older 
church said to date from the time of the Lombards. The Mariahilf 
chapel affords a good survey : to the W. rises the barren greyBazberg, 
in the background the Furka with its inn, to the left the Muttenhorn ; 
a few paces beyond the chapel, the Six-Madun, or Badus(see below), 
is visible; to the E. in long zigzags ascends the road over the Ober- 
alp (p. 365). St. Gotthard minerals sold by Frau Meyer-Midler. 

From Andermatt over the Oberalp to Coire, see R. 94; over the Furlca 
to the Rhone Glacier^ see R. 33. 

The Badus, or Six-Madun (9615'), the huge outpost of the Alps of the 
Grisons, is ascended from Andermatt in 4'/2-5hrs. (toilsome; guide 13 fr. ; from 
Tschamut easier and shorter, p. 364). The summit, which consists of hlocks 
of gneiss, commands numberless peaks of the Alps of the Grisons, Bern, and 
the Valais, and the whole of the Vorder-Rheinthal. — The Gurschenstock 
(9423'; 4 hrs.) and GamsslocJ: (9728' ; 4V2 hrs.) are also fine points of view 
(guide necessary). — Over the Unteralp Pass to Airolo (8 hrs.), see p. 105. 

Between Andermatt and Hospenthal we observe the Glacier of 
St. Anna, high above the brow of the mountain to the left. 

51/2 M. Hospenthal f4800'; *Meyerhof, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. l'^, 
lunch 3, D. 4-5, pens. 7-12 fr. ; *Goldner Lowe, R., L. & A. 2, B. 
11/4, D. 3 fr. ; *Post, R. 2 fr. ; Schafli, both unpretending) derives 
its name from a hospice which formerly stood here. The tower on 
the hill is a relic of a castle said to have been built by the Lombards. 
The Furka Road (R. 33) diverges to the right beyond the village. 

The St. Gotthard road ascends in numerous windings through a 
bleak valley, on the left bank of that branch of the Reuss which 
descends from the Lake of Lucendro (p. 111). A short-cut di- 
verges to the left by the second house beyond the Reuss bridge. 
Pleasant retrospects of the Urseren-Thal and the jagged peaks of 
the Spitzberge (p. 115), as far as the Galenstock to the W. To the 
left of the bleak (3 M.) Gamsboden opens the abrupt Guspis-Thal, 
at the head of which are the Guspis Glacier and the Pizzo Centrale 
(p. 111). At a bend in the road (3/4 M.) is the first Cantoniera 
(5876'), at the foot of the Winterhorn, or Piz Orsino (8747'). The 



to Airolo. ST. GOTTHARD. 31. Route. Ill 

road enters Canton Tieino, passes the second Cantoniera, and crosses 
the Reuss for the last time, near its source in the Lake of Lucendro 
(to the right; not visible), by the (3 M.") Rodont Bridge (6620')- 

To the 'lake of Lucendro (6834') a digression of V2 lir. only. The 
path diverges below the Rodont Bridge (on the left bank), leads over masses 
of rock to the (10 min.) beautiful green lake, environed with snow-peaks 
and glaciers , and skirts its N. bank. To the S. rises the imposing Piz 
Lncendro (9708'), to the W. the Ywerberhorner (9265'), the Piz delV Uomo 
(8820') , etc. — I'he path crosses the Reuss at its exit from the lake, and 
rejoins the St. Gotthard road on the top of the pass. 

On the (1 M.) Pass of St. Gotthard (6935'} the road passes 
between several small lakes. 

The St. Gotthard is a mountain group, with a number of different 
peaks . extensive glaciers , and about thirty small lakes. The pass is a 
barren vallev, destitute of view, bounded on the E. by the precipitous Sasso 
di S. Gottar'do (8235'), and on the W. bv the rocks of the Fihbia (8995') and 
the Pizzo la Valletta (8334'). The chief peaks of the St. Gotthard are: E., 
the Prosa (8983') and Pizzo Cenfrale (9850'; see bfelow); W., the Piz Lu- 
cendro (9708'), Ywerherhorn (9265'), Piz deW Uomo (8820'), and Winterhorn 
or Piz Orsino (8747'); then, more to the W., the Leckihorn (10,070'), Mutlen- 
Aor» (10,184'), PSJZ20 Pe««ora (10,250'), Pizzo Rotondo {iQ^li^Q'), Kiihboden- 
horn (10,080'), etc. 

133/4 M. Albergo del S. Gottardo (6867'), 1/4 M. to the S. of the 
culminating point, is a 'dependance' of the *H6tel du Mont Prosa 
(R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 9 fr.), which stands opposite. The 
latter is adjoined by the Hospice, now a meteorological station. On 
a rock a little to the S. is the old Mortuary Chapel. 

Excursions (guides for the shorter ascents at the hotel). 'Pizzo Cen- 
trale, or Tritthorn (9850'), not difficult (31/2 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.). Beyond 
the hospice we cross the brook to the left, and ascend the slope of the 
Sasso San Gottardo over detritus to the entrance of the Sella Valley, 
through which the route leads. To the left Mte. Prosa (see below). We 
skirt the slope high above the Sella Lake (7320') and ascend a snow-field 
to the base of the peak, which consists of crumbling hornblende. The 
view is one of striking magnificence, embracing almost all the highest 
mountains in Switzerland ("Panorama by A. Heim). — Monte Prosa (8983'; 
2V2 hrs.; guide 7 fr.), free from difficulty. By the hut above the Sella Lake 
(IV4 hr.) we diverge to the left from the Pizzo Centrale path, and ascend 
across poor pastures and patches of snow to the (3/4 hr.) saddle (8520') be- 
tween the Prosa and Blauberg. Then to the left again, up the arete, and 
lastly over sharp rocks to (1/2 hr.) the summit. The W. peak, 41' higher 
than the E., is separated from it by a chasm 20' deep. View inferior to 
that from the Pizzo Centrale. 

The Fibbia (8995'; 2V2 hrs.; guide 7 fr.), a gigantic rock which com- 
mands the St. Gotthard road on the W. and descends suddenly to the Val 
Tremola, is fatiguing. Excellent survey of the St. Gotthard group, (he 
valley of the Tieino, and the Tieino Alps. — Piz Lucendro (9708': 3V2- 
4 hrs. ; guide, 10 fr., unnecessary for the experienced), a fine point, free 
from difficulty. From the Lucendro Lake (see above) a good path ascends by 
the Lucendro Alp to the Yicerher P'iss, before reaching which we turn to 
the left and gradually mount the Lucendro Glacier to the S.E angle of the 
Piz; then over rock to the summit. Descent to the Lucendro Pass (see 
p. 112). — Leckihorn (10,070'), see p. 112. — Pizzo Rotondo (10,490'), the 
highest peak of the St. Gotthard, is very difficult (comp. p. 303). 

Ascent of the Sorescia or Scara Ovell (7350') , a pleasant excursion 
(1 hr.). We descend the road to the S. to the Tieino bridge , and beyond 
it ascend a narrow path to the left. Fine view, especially of the Tieino 
Alps, the Cristallina, Campo Tencia, Basodino, etc. Descent to the Sella 
valley unadvisable, there being no bridge over the Tieino. 



112 Route 31. VAL TllEMOLA. 

Passes. Ovjiii tiik Oksino Pass to I!eali% n(jt difiicult (4 hrs. ; adepts 
need no guide). The route ascends to the N.W. from the Luccndro lake 
over grass slopes, past the Orsirora Lake (8058'; to the left) to the Orsino 
Pass (about 8530'), on the S.W. side of the Piz Orsino (p. Ill); striking 
view (S.) of the St. Gotthard group from the Furka to the Fibbia. (N.W.) 
of the Finsteraarhorn and Agassizhorn, and (N.) of the Galenstock and 
Dammastock range as far as the Sustenhorner and Titlis. Descent to 
Realp across pastures and brushwood. 

Over the Lecki Pass to the Furka (10 hrs., with guide), fatiguing, 
but repaying. From the Hotel we ascend the Valletta di S. 6ot(ai-do, 
between the Fibbia and the Pizzo la Valletta, to the (2 hrs.) Passo di 
Lucendro (8330'), whence the Piz Lucendro (see p. Ill) may be acended 
(11/2 hr.). We then cross to the N. of the Piz (or descend from the Piz) 
to the Wytlemeasser-Tlial and the Cavanna Pass (p. 115), traverse the Wi/t- 
tenwasser Glacier, pass the HUhnerstock , and reach (41/2 hrs.) the Lecki 
Pass (9556'), lying to the N. of the Leckihorn (10,070'; see p. Ill; easily 
ascended from the pass in 1/2 hr.). Descent across the Mutten Olacier, past 
the MuUenhorner ; then an ascent between the Thierberg and Blauberg to 
the small Schtoarze Glacier, and down to the (3'/2 hrs.) i^«ri-rt Hotel (t^. 116). 

From the Hospice to Airolo is a walk or drive of 2-21/2 hrs. ; 
in tlie reverse direction 3 hours. In winter and spring the snow- 
drifts on the road-side are often 30-40' high, and sometimes remain 
unmelted throughout the summer. Snow-storms and avalanches are 
most prevalent on the S. side. 

About 1/2 M. to the S.E., below the hospice, the road crosses 
that branch of the Ticino which issues from the Sella Lake (see 
p. 111). By the first house of refuge, the Cantoniera S. Antonio 
(6375'), the road enters the Val Tremola, a dismal valley into 
which avalanches often fall, and descends past the Cantoniera 
S. Giuseppe (6010') in numerous windings, avoided by the 
old bridle-path. At the third refuge, the Cantoniera di Val Tremola 
(5564'), the Val Tremola ends and the Valle Leventina (p. 106) 
begins. *View down to Quinto. To the right opens the ValBedretto 
(p. 303), from which the main branch of the Ticino descends. 

22M. Airolo (3755'), 8 1/2M. from the St. Gotthard Pass, see p. 105. 

Travellers going from the St. Gotthard to the Val Bedretto need not 
descend to Airolo, but save an hour by leaving the road below the Can- 
toniera di Val Tremola (see above), at the angle of the first great bend 
in the direction of the Val Eedrotto. The path descends to the right, and 
at Fontana (p. 303) joins the road leading from Airolo to AlPAcqua. 

32. The Maderaner Thai. 

Comp. Map, 'p. 62. 

The Maderaner Thai, a picturesque valley about 8 M. in length, 
enclosed by lofty mountains (N., the Great and Little Windgdlle, the Great 
And. Little liuchen, and the Scheerhorn; S., the Bristenstock, Weitenalpslock, 
Oberalpstock, and Diissistock), and watered by the turbulent Kdrstelenbach, 
is worthy of a visit. Bridle-path (shaded in the early morning) from 
Amsteg to the (31/4 hrs.) Jlutel Alpeiiclub (3030' above Amsteg; horse 12 fr. ; 
porter 6, there and back within two days 12 fr.). Beiiutiful return-route 
by the Stafel-Alpen (see below), G-7 hrs., even practicable for ladies. 

Amsteg (1760'), see p. 103. We diverge from the St. Gotthard 
road on the left bank of the Kdrstelenbach and ascend, passing under 
the huge railway-bridge, by a good zigzag path to the St. Anions- 



MADERANER THAL. 32. Route. 113 

Kapelie ; then over gently sloping pastures, shaded with fruit-trees, 
to (50 min.) the hamlet ot Bristen (2615'; the 'Caplan' sells good 
wine). The path descends a little, crosses (5 min.) to the right 
bank of the foaming Karstelenbach, and again ascends. After 7 min. 
we avoid a bridge to the right, leading to the narrow Etzlithal (see 
p. 114), in which a fine waterfall is visible. After 20 min. the path 
recrosses to the left bank and leads to the (5 min.) houses Am Schat- 
tigen Berg. It then ascends rapidly to (40 min.) a small cabaret on 
the Lungenstutz (3600'), and (8 min.) a cross commanding a fine 
view. Passing through wood at places, we next cross the Griessen- 
bach and the Staldenbach to (1/2 hr.) the chalets of Stussi (3904'). 
Crossing the Karstelenbach at a (5 min.) Saw-mill, and passing the 
houses of Balmwald on the left, in 25 min. more we reach the *H6tel 
zum Schweizer Alpenclub (4790'; R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-lOfr.; 
Engl. Church Service), adapted for a stay of some time. Fine view 
from the terrace on the W. side of the house. Pleasant wood-walks 
in the vicinity. The small Butzli-See is 1/2 M. from the hotel. 

To the Hiifi Glacier, an interesting walk (1 hr., guide unnecessary). 
From the inn a path, at first through wood, ascends the grassy slopes 
on the N. side of the valley (passing opposite the falls of the Srunni- 
bach, the Stduberbach , and the Lammerbach) , crosses the Schleierbach, 
the Seidenbach, and the Milclibache, and ascends to (1 hr.) a rocky height 
(5230'), overlooking the glacier, from which the Karstelenbach issues. 
We may now descend to the end of the glacier (guide necessary, 3-4 fr.) 
and return to the hotel on the left bank of the Karstelenbach, passing the 
waterfalls above mentioned, and crossing the Alp Gv/ern (3-4 hrs. in all). 

Beautiful return -route to Amsteg by the *Stafeln (6-7 hrs. ; 
guide 8 fr.), the lofty pastures on the N. side of the valley. The 
path first leads to the above-mentioned rock overlooking the Hiifl 
Glacier (1 hr.), and then ascends to the (1 hr.) Alp Gnof (6235'), 
the (3/4 hr.) Stafel-Alp (6290') , and the (1/4 hr.) Alp Bernetsmatt 
(6553' ; Alpine fare and accommodation), commanding a magnificent 
view of the Hiifl Glacier , Clariden Pass , Diissistock , Tschingel 
Glacier, Oberalpstock, Weitenalpstock , Crispalt, Bristenstock, Ga- 
lenstock, Spitzliberg, the Windgallen , and Ruchen. [A still finer 
view, especially of the conspicuous Windgallen, is commanded by 
the* Widder egg (7840'; I1/4 hr. from Bernetsmatt, with guide).] We 
then descend rapidly to the pretty Oolzern- See (4636') and the 
(1 hr.) Golzern-Alpen(ib83'; good drinking-water), and lastly in zig- 
zags through underwood to the hamlet of (I1/2 tr.) Bristen and (1/2 
hr.) Amsteg (to the station 1/4 hr. more). 

Excursions from the Hotel Alpenclub. (Guides: Ambr., Jost, and Joi. 
Zgraggen; Jos. Maria, Melch., and Jos. Tresch; A. Baumann ; Jos. and 
Melchior Gnos and others ; ordinary excursions, 6 fr. per day.) The ascent 
of the Dussistock [Piz Git, 10,703'- 6-7 hrs.; guide 20 fr.) is difficult and 
requires experience. The path leads up the Brunnithal to the (2 hrs.) 
Waltersfirren Alp (6332'), ascends to the left to the (2 hrs.) Resti-Tschingel 
Glacier, and crosses it; we then clamber over the precipitous rocks of the 
Kleine DUssi (10,280') and ascend the arete to the (2 hrs.) summit. Splendid 
view. — The Oberalpstock {Piz Tgietschen, 10,925'; guide 20 fr.), presents no 
serious difficulty to adepts. We either proceed from the Alpenclub Hotel 
to the upper part of the (4-5 hrs.) Brunni Glacier (p. 114) , and ascend 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 8 



I U Route 32. MADERANER THAL. 

the snowy slopes, to the right, to the summit in 2-2'/2 hrs. ; or cross from 
Amsteg to the upper part of the SlrinUhal by the Kriizli Pass (see below), 
and ascend across the Slrim Glacier, reaching the summit from the S.E. 
side (7-8 hrs., from Sedrun 1 hr. less). — Weitenalpstock ('J872'j, 7 hrs., 
very toilsome. — /i»v>/e«.s<oct (10,090'), seep. 103. — Piz Cambriales (10,588'), 
4-5 hrs. from the Huli Club-hut (sec below), and Claridenstock (10,7'28'; 20 fr.), 
5 hrs. from the club-hut, not very difficult for practised climbers. Kammli- 
stock (10,787'; 20 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, laborious. — The Grosse 
Windg&lle or Kalkstock (10,403'), from the Alp Bernetsmatt (see p. 113) 
5 hrs , and the Grosse Scheerhorn (10,814'), from the Hiifi Club-hut 6 hrs., 
both very diflicult , require experience and thorough steadiness (guide 
25 fr.). — Grosse Ruchen (10,295'), less difficult, but extremely fatiguing 
(from the Alp Onof, 6-7 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.). — The Kleine WindgSUe (9800'), 
from the Alp Bernetsmatt by the arete betvpeen the Kleine and Grosse 
Windgalle in 3'/2-4 hrs., is not difficult and very attractive. 

Passes. To Stachelberg over the 'Clariden Pass (9843'), 11-12 hrs. 
from the Alpenclub Hotel, a grand and most interesting expedition, presents 
no serious difficulty to experts with able guides (30-35 fr.). The route 
ascends the slopes of the Diissistock (p. 113), on the left bank of the Hiifi 
Glacier, to the (2V2hrs.) Cluh Hul on the finely situated Hiifi Alp (5905'; spend 
night). Then a steep ascent for a short distance, over the moraine to the 
(40 min.) Hiifi Glacier , and gradually up the Hiififirn and Claridenfirn to 
the (3-3'/2 hrs.) Pass at the S. base of the Claridenstock (10,728'), command- 
ing a fine view of the Todi, the Rheinwaldgebirge, etc. We then descend 
the Claridenfirn, passing the Bocklsckingel , a rock with a hole through 
its middle, and the G ems/ay re/istock (p. 62), and through the dificult 
Wallenbach-SchUicht to the Altenorenalp, the Auengilter (p. 63), and (5 hrs.) 
Staclielberg. Or from the Claridenfirn (keeping to the right before reach- 
ing the Clariden Pass) we may cross the Hiifi Pass (9045') , between 
the Hintere Spilzalpelistock (9852') and the Catscharauls (10,045'), to the 
Handfirn, and then either descend to the left to the Upper Sandalp (p. 63) 
or to the right by the Sandgrat to Disenlis (p. 362). — Another pass to 
Stachelberg (12-13 hrs. from the Alpenclub Hotel) is the Kammliliicke 
(9268'), lying between the Scheerhorn and the Kammlistock (see above), for 
experts not very difficult. Descent over precipitous ice-slopes to the cre- 
vassed Griesgleicher, the Kammli Alp, and the Klausen Pass (p. 64). 

To Unteeschachen over the Ruchkehlen Pass, 8-9 hrs., laborious. 
From the Alp Gnof (p. 113) we ascend precipitous grass -slopes, rock, 
and glacier to the pass, between the Grosse and Kleine Ruchen , and 
descend steeply through the glacier-clad Ruchkehle into the Brunnilhal and 
Schdchenthal (p. 64). — The Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass (9180') is also toil- 
some. From the Hiifi Club-hut we mount the Hiifi Glacier and the Bock- 
tschingelfirn to the pass, between the Scheerhorn and the Kleine Ruchen, 
and descend to the Obere Lammerhach-Alp and Unterschdcken. 

To DisENTis over the Brunni Pass (8875'), 8 hrs., interesting but 
fatiguing (guide necessary, 20 fr.). We ascend the Brunnilhal by Rinderbiel 
and Wallersfirren (p. 113) to the (2V2 hrs.) Brunni-Alp (6988'), cross the 
Brunni Glacier to the (2 hrs.) pass between the Piz Cavardiras (9506') on 
the left and the Piz d'Acletla (9570') on the right, and descend through the 
Acletta-Thal to Acletta and (3V2 hrs.) Disentis^(p. 302). 

Feom Amsteg over tue Kruzli Pass (7645') to Sedkun, 8 hrs., fati- 
guing. Through the Elzlilhal to the pass, 5V2 hrs. ; thence down the Strim- 
thcil to Sedrun (p. 3G3), 2V2 hrs. 

33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. 
The Furka. 

Comp. Map, p. 108. 

25 M. Diligence in summer daily in 6V2 hrs. (9 fr. 95, coupi- 11 fr. 

95 c.); from Goschenen to Brieg daily in 12 (Brieg to Goschenen 14) hrs., 

with V2 hour's halt at Tiefenbach, and dining at the Rhone Glacier (22V2, 

coupe 27 fr.). — Pedestjuans should allow the following times from Gii- 



REALP. 33. Route. 1 1 5 

schenen: to Andermatt I'/o, Uealp 2. the Furka S'/'J (return 21/2), Rhone 
Glacier 2 (retuvn 2'/2) hrs. — Horse from Realp to the Tiefenbach-Schirm- 
haus 5, Furka 8 fr. — Carriages : with two horses from Goschenen to 
Andermatt or Hospenthal 10-15, with three horses 20 fr. (omnibus l'/2-2 fr., 
see p. 108); from Andermatt to Realp 15 and 25, the Furka 40 and 60, Rhone 
Glacier 60 and 75, Fiesch 90 and 125, Brieg 125 and 185 fr.; from Hospen- 
thal (Meyerhof) to Realp, with one horse 6, two horses 10, to Furka 20 (there 
and back 25) and 35, Rhone Glacier 30 and 50, Fiesch 50 and 90, Brieg 70 and 
120 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier to the Furka 15 fr. 

The Turka Road, constructed chiefly for military purposes, and foi-m- 
ing a convenient route to or from the Grimsel and the Bernese Oberland, 
commands striking views of the Rhone Glacier and the neighbouring moun- 
tains, and from Realp onwards should be traversed in an open carriage 
or on foot. 

To(5i/.2M.)Hospen(/iai(4800'), see pp. 108-110. At the upper 
end of the village the road diverges to the right from the St. Gott- 
hard route, ascends a little, and skirts the level bank of the Realper 
Reuss in the hleak Vrserenthal (p. 109). On each side rise steep 
grassy slopes, furrowed by numerous brooks, and overshadowed on 
the N. by the jagged pinnacles of the Spitzberge (10,053')- 21/4 M. 
Zumdorf (4965'), a group of huts with a chapel. Farther on we 
cross the Reuss and the Lochbach, which descends from the Tiefen- 
gletscher (see below), and soon reach (1^/4 M.) — 

9Y2M. Realp (5060'; Hot. des Alpes, plain; 'Beim Hospiz\ with 
the post-station), a poor hamlet at theW. end of the Urseren Valley. 

Over the Alpliyen-Liicke to the Goscheneii-Alp, see p. 108; Orsiiio Pass 
to the St. Gotthard, see p. 112. — From Realp to Villa in the Val Bedretto 
(p. 303) by the Cavanna Pass (8566'), between the Piz Lucendro and Huhner- 
stock, 5 hrs., uninteresting. 

Beyond Realp the road begins to ascend in long windings, 
which the old road to the right, 50 paces beyond the second bridge, 
Y2 M. from Realp, avoids. (In descending from the Furka we 
quit the new road a few hundred paces beyond the 50th kilometre 
stone , and descend by a few steps to the left.) We soon obtain 
a line retrospective view of the broad Urserenthal, with the zigzags 
of the Oberalpstrasse in the background (p. 365); on the left are 
the Wyttenwasserthal with the glacier of that name, the Ywer- 
berhomer, and the Piz Lucendro. At the last winding of the road 
(^Fuchsegg, 6595') stands a small inn. About IV2 M. farther on, be- 
yond the Ebneten-Alp, is Tiefenbach (6790' ; *Hoiel Tlefengletsch, 
D. 31/2, pens. 5-6 fr.), where the diligence halts some time. 

By following the slope from this point and crossing the moraine, we 
reach (l'/4 hr.; guide) the beautiful Tiefen Glacier, imbedded between the 
Galenstock and the Gletschliorn (10,850'), where beautiful crystals (moi'e 
than I2V2 tons) were found in 1868 (p. 138). — Over the Tiefensattel to the 
Rhone Glacier (Grimsel, Tri/thiitfe), see p. 126. — Over the Winterliicke 
(9449') to the GOscfienen-Alp (p. 108),6hrs.; descent to the Winter Glacier steap. 

The road crosses the Tiefentobel and ascends, running high up 
on the N. slope. The old bridle-path (not recommended) follows 
the Garschentfud on the left, far below. On the right lies the 
Siedeln Glacier, the discharge of which forms a fine waterfall; 
above it rise the pinnacles of the Bielenstock (9669'). Before us 
rises the Furkaliorn (p. 116). The (3 M.) — 



11G Route 33. FURKA. 

171/2 M. Furka (7992'; *H6l.-Pens. de la Furca, 50 teds, R., 
L., & A. 4-5, lunch 4, D. 5 I'r.) is a saddle between the Mutten- 
horner on the left and the Furkahorner on the right, descending 
ahruptly on hoth sides. Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps with 
the imposing Finsteraarhorn and to the left of it the Oberaarhorn, 
Walliser Fiescherhcirner, Siedelhorn, and Wannehorn, and to the 
right the Agassizhorn and Schreckhorner. From the *KanzU, to the 
right of the road, about 1 M. farther on, and from the upper part 
of the Rhone Glacier we obtain a view of the Upper Valais and 
its Alps (Mischabelhorner, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc.). 

ExcuKSiONS. -Furkahorn (9935' ; 21/2 lirs.; guide 5 fr., not necessary for 
adepts), to the N. of the pass, by a new path; very interesting. Admirable 
panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, the Galensfock, St. Gotthard 
group, etc. Not advisable to descend direct to the Rhone Glacier. — 
■Muttenhom (10,180'; 3 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), to the S. of the Furka, a very 
fine point, not difficult. 

Galenstock (11,805'; 5 hrs.; guide 15 fr.), for adepts only, with an able 
guide, axe, and rope. From the Furka to the (2/4 hr.) Rhone Qlacier (see 
below), skirt its left margin , climb a steep snowy slope to the right, 
follow a difficult arete of rock, and lastly mount very steep nevf; to the 
overhanging snowy summit (caution required). View exceedingly grand. 

From the Furka over the Lecki Pass to the St. Goilhard Hospice (10 hrg., 
with guide), see p. 112; over the Trift-Limmi to the Tri/thUite, sec p. 125. 

To THE Gkimsel Hospice (p. 173), 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr. ; alpenstock and 
nailed boots requisite). W^alkers may descend from the Furka by a good 
path, diverging to the right from the road V2 M. from the inn, to the up- 
per part of the Rhone Glacier in ^/t hr., cross it above the ice-fall in IV2 
hr., and go over the (V4 br.) Nigeli's GrMli (8470'; view) to the (2 hrs.) 
Hospice. This route is less to be recommended in the reverse direction. 

The road follows the slope to the right to the (I74 M.) Oalen- 
hutten (7900') and descends to the left in long zigzags, high 
above the huge *Rhone Glacier (p. 302), affording admirable 
views of its fantastic ice-masses. At the second bend of the road 
a path leads in ^4 hr., over loose stones, keeping to the left, 
to a point commanding the upper part of the glacier. In the 
valley we cross the Muttbach (the discharge of the Gratschlucht 
Glacier). The road is joined here on the left by the steep old 
bridle-path from the Furka. It then gradually descends the slope 
of the Lanyisgrat, and again describes several long bends, which 
the old bridle-path, to the right, cuts off. Crossing the infant 
Rhone, we now reach the (61/4 M.) — 

25 M. Rhone Glacier Hotel, in the 'QletscV (5750'; p. 302). 

From the Rhone Glacier to Bvigue, see p. 302 ; over the Qrimsel to 
Afeiringen, see R. 52. 

34. From Lucerne to Altdorf vii Stans and 
Engelberg. The Surenen Pass. 

Comp. Map, p. 16. 
Steamboat from Lucerne to Stansstad 8 times daily in 40 min., fare 
Ifr. 40 or 80c. (see p. 91). — Diligence from Stansstad to (14 M.) Engel- 
berg twice daily in 3'/'.! brs. ; fare 4fr. 60, coupe 6fr. 40 c. (to Stans G times 
daily in 20 min. ; fare 60c.); one-horse carriage 15, two-horse 25 fr. — Walk- 
ers may dismiss their vehicle at Grafenort (9 M. from Stansstad , a drive 



STANS. 34. Route. H^ 

of 13/4 hr., one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 16 fr.}, beyond which the road is 
so steep that travellers usually alight and walk. (One-hopse carr. from 
Beckenried to Engelberg, the route for travellers from the St. Gotthard, 
15-18, two-horse 25-30 fr. ; see p. 79.) — From Engelberg to Altdorf over 
the Surenen Pass, rather fatiguing (bridle-path, 81/2 hrs.; guide, 14 fr., 
unnecessary in fine weather ; travellers from Altdorf need a guide to 
the top of the pass only, 8 fr.). 

To Stansstad, see p. 91. The road leads round the S. base of 
the Biirgenstock (p. 91), through orchards and pastures. 

2 M. Stans, or Stanz (1510'; pop. 2462; Krone, R. 1, B. 1 fr. ; 
Engel; Rdssli), the capital of Nidwalden, the E. half of Canton 
Unterwalden , lies in the midst of a vast orchard , on which, 
however, from 11th Nov. to 2nd Feb. the sun shines for one 
hour only in the morning, between the Hohe Brisen (7894') and 
the Stanserhorn (see below). Adjoining the handsome Parish 
Church is the * Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 20), a fine 
group in marble by Schloth. A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the 
churchyard, on the N. side of the church, commemorates the mas- 
sacre perpetrated here in 1798 by the French, who were exasper- 
ated by the obstinate resistance they met with. The Town Hall 
contains portraits of aU the mayors from the year 1521 ; below them 
is a collection of Unterwalden flags ; also two French banners of 
1798; a picture by the blind artist Wiirsch, who perished in 1798; 
another by Volmar, representing Brother Klaus taking leave of his 
family (p. 121). In the studio of the late painter Deschwanden a 
number of his paintings are exhibited gratis. Fine view from the 
Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery. 

The Stanser Horn (6230'; "View) is ascended from Stans by the Blumatt- 
alp, from Kerns (p. 121) by the Holzwang Alp, or from Dallenwyl (see 
below) by Wiesenberg (S'/s-i hrs. ; guide convenient). — The Buocbser Horn 
(5935'), ascended from Nieder-Rickenhach (see below) in I'/j hr., or from 
Bechenried or Buochs in 3'/4 hrs., is another interesting point, command- 
ing a superb view of the Lake of Lucerne from Lucerne to Brunnen, the 
district of Schwyz, and the Engelberg valley from Stans to Grafenort. 

The road to (12 M.) Engelberg traverses the valley of the 
Engelberger Aa, between the Stanser Horn on the right and the 
Buochser Horn on the left. In the background rises the snow-clad 
Titlis. Near (21/4 M.) Dallenwyl we cross the Aa. On a mound 
of detritus at the mouth of the Steinbach, to the right, stands 
the church of Dallenwyl. 

A good bridle-path, diverging to the left, ascends to (41/2 M. ; 6 M. 
from Stans via Nieder-Biiren) the finely- situated health-resort of Nieder- 
Kickenbach or Maria-Rickenhach (3830'; 'Kurhaus zuin Engel, pens. 5-6 fr.). 
From this point the interesting ascent of the "Steinalp-Brisen (7890'; guide 
not indispensable to adepts) may be made in 3V4 hrs. via the Ahorn-Alp 
and the Sleinalp. Another attractive ascent is that of the Schwalmis (7373'; 
2V2-2V4hrs.; guide unnecessary), which leads by the Ahorn-Alp, the Bar- 
falle (with a cross), and the BilM-Alp, and thence up the E. arete. An 
interesting pass (4V2 hrs. with guide) leads from !Nieder-Eickenbach by 
ilae. Buhlalpe (see above) and the ./oc/t/( (6924') between the Schwalmis and 
the Reissendstock, descending bv the Bolgen-Alp to St. Jakob in the Isen- 
thal (p. 84). 

Beside the church of(2M.) Woi/'ensc/uessen (1710' ; Eintracht ; 



118 Route 34. ENGELBERG. From Lucerne 

Kreuz)is the hermit-liut (brought hither from Altzellen") of Conrad 
Scheuber, grandson of St. Nikolaus von der Fliie (p. 121), whose 
worship he shares. Beyond (3 M.) Orafenort (1885'; Inn, good 
wine) the road ascends through beautiful wood. To the right, far 
below, flows the brawling Aa. We next pass (41/2 M.) the small 
auberge 'Im Griinen Wald', below which, in the valley to the 
right, a hrook descending from the Triibsee (p. 125) falls into the 
Aa. After another slight ascent, we turn to the left, and suddenly 
obtain a view of the Engelberger Thai, a green Alpine valley, 5 M. 
long and 1 M. broad, bounded on three sides by lofty, snow-clad 
mountains. The Titlis with its ice-mantle stands forth majestically, 
and to the left rise the rocky pinnacles of the Great and Little 
Spannort(^. 119); in the foreground is the Hahnenberg or Engelberg 
(8566'). Then (2 M.) — 

14 M. Engelberg. — *H6tel Sonnenberg, finely situated, R., L., 
& A. 4-5, D. 41/2, S. 3, pens. 81/2- 11 fr. ; *Hotel Titlis, R. , L., & A. 
3'/2, D. 4, pens. 7-lOfr. ; 'Engel, pens. 51/2-7 fr., rooms separated only by 
board partitions; "Apartments at Dr. Cattanfs , adjoining, but without 
board; 'KnRHAus & Pens. Muller, 6-9 fr. ; *Frau Dr. Muller's Pension, 
adjacent; 'Hot. Engelberg; 'Hot. des Alpes, unpretending, pens. 5 fr., 
R. extra; "Pens. Hess, R. 2, B. 1 fr. Rooms at several other houses; 
usual charges, R. l'/2, B. 1, D. 2 fr.; whey also procurable. Beer at 
Waser's. — English Church in the grounds of th6 Hotel Titlis. — Guides: 
Karl, Eugeti, and Jos. Iless; Jos. Kuster, father and son; Plaeidus Hess; 
Jos. Amrhein ; Jos. Imfanger; N. Hurschler ; C. ^y'aser. 

Engelberg (3315'; pop. 1977), loftily and prettily situated, and 
sheltered from the N., is a favourite health-resort, particularly for 
nervous patients. At the upper end of the village rises the handsome 
Benedictine Ahbey of the name, founded in 1121, named Mons An- 
yelorum by Pope Calixtus XI., and rebuilt after a flre in iTlQ. 

The "Church contains modern pictures by Deschwanden, Kaiser, and 
Wiirsch (p. 118j. High-altar-piece, an Assumption by Spiegler , 1734. In 
the chapter -house two transparencies by Kaiser, the Conception and the 
Nativity. The Library (20,U00 vols., 210 MSS.), which was pillaged by 
the French in 1798, contains a good relief of the Engelberg Valley. Per- 
mission to visit the monastery must be obtained from the abbot, to whom 
a visiting-card is sent with a request that he will fix the hour. — The 
School connected with the abbey is well attended. The Farm Buildings, 
with the labourers' dwellings, are very extensive, and in the cheese-ma- 
gazine several thousand cheeses are frequently stored at one time. The 
revenues of the abbey, which formerly exercised sovereign rights over 
the surrounding district, were considerably reduced by the French in 1798. 

Opposite the Abbey, to the S., on the left bank of the Aa, are 
pleasant shady walks, which are reached in 10 minutes. 

Excursions. Oberschwand (4300'; Inn), affording a delightful survey 
of the valley and the neighbouring mountains , is reached by a path 
ascending gradually by Unterschwand in VI-> hr., or by a steep path ascend- 
ing direct in 1 hr. — The Flvihmatt (135o'), 1 hr. to the N., commands a 
magnificent view of the Titlis. — Pleasant walk (way to the Surenen Pass, 
see p. 118), passing the church on the left, to the (^4 hr.) 'Tatschbach Fall, 
which descends from the Hahnenberg. (To the left of this path is the End 
der Welt, a rocky basin at the head of the Ilorhisthal. It may be reached 
in V2 hr. : 10 min. from the church, and beyond the bridge over the Horbis- 
bach, the path ascends to the left by the cafe 'Zur neiien Heimat\) Beyond 
the Tatschbach we may cross the Furrenbach, which also forms several 






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to Altdorf. SURENENPASS. 34. Route. 119 

falls, and visit the (V2 hr.) dairy-farm of Herrenrviti (3897'; horse there and 
back 5 fr.), the property of the Abbey, aflbrding a survey of the Firn- 
alpeli and Grassen glaciers. — The Arnitobel, a gorge with a waterfall, 
2V4 M. to the W., a pleasant and shady walk; thence to the right to the 
(11/2 hr.) Arnialp (5267'), with a good view of the Engelberger Rothstock 
and Uri-Rothstock. — Fiirrenalp (6073'; 2V2 hrs.); the path ascends to the 
left before reaching the Tatschbach Fall, and then skirts the slope above 
(beautiful view of the Titlis). 

Ascents. The Bigithalstock (8515'; 41/2 hrs.; guide 9 fr.), the last part 
difficult, fine panorama; the Geissberg (8904'; 5 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), rather 
fatiguing; the Widderfeld (7723'; 4 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.), less fatiguing. — 
Hutstock (8789'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), by the /wcTiit (p. 122), not difficult 
for mountaineers. — The Hanghorn (8790'), an attractive point, is reached 
in 6-7 hrs. (guide 12 fr.) by crossing the slope of the Schattband, in front 
of the Hutstock. — Engelberg-Rothstock (9252'; 5 hrs.; guide 9 fr.), interest- 
ing and not difficult. We ascend the Alp Ohhaag and the Plankenalp to 
the (3V2 hrs.) Club Hut on the Ruchhubel (7562'), not far from the Griessen 
Glacier; thence below the Rothgriitli (p. 84) to the top in I1/2 hr. more. 

*TJri-Rothstock (9620'; 8V2 hrs.; guide 17, with descent to Isenthal 
22 fr.) , very interesting. From the club-hut above the Plankeniilp (see 
above) to the (IV4 hr.) gap (8878') on the S. of thel Engelberg- Rothstock; 
thence across snow to the (1 hr.) Porta or Schlossstockliicke, adjoining the 
Schlossstock (9055'); then a rather steep descent to the BliimUsalpjirn ; 
again an ascent to the arete separating it from the Kleinthal, and lastly 
up the Kleinthalfirn to the (2'/2 hrs.) top (comp. p. 84). 

The Gross-Spannort (10,515') is ascended from the Spannort Club-hul 
(6500'), 4 hrs. from Engelberg, by the Schlossberg-Liicke and the Glatten- 
Jim, in 4'/2 hrs.; interesting, though toilsome (guide 25 fr.). — • Klein- 
Spannort (10,382'; 6-7 hrs. ; guide 35 fr.); from the Spannort Hut by the 
Spannortj och (see below) ; difficult climbing. 

The 'Titlis (10,627'; 7-8 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) is most interesting, though 
trying. It is advisable to go on the previous evening to the Hotel Hess 
(p. 125; 21/4 hrs.; horse 10 fr.), in order not to have the steep Pfaffen- 
wand (p. 125) to ascend at starting. From this point it is usual to start 
at 2 a.m., in order that on the return-route the snow may be traversed 
before the heat of the day. From the Hotel Hess the path ascends over 
the Laubersgrat to the (2 hrs.) Stand (8033'), where a short rest is taken ; 
it then mounts a steep slaty incline in zigzags, over rock and detritus, 
to the (V4 hr.) Rothegg (9030'), where the glacier is reached. We ascend 
the glacier, at first gradually, then more rapidly (step-cutting sometimes 
necessary), and if the snow is in good condition we reach the (1V2-2 hrs.) 
summit, called the Nollen, without material difficulty. The view, highly 
picturesque and imposing, embraces the entire Alpine chain from Savoy 
to the Tyrol, N. Switzerland, and S. Germany. The ascent of the Titlis, 
though requiring perseverance, is perhaps the least difficult of glacier-excur- 
sions. Descent to the Joch Pass (Engstlenalp), see p. 125. 

Passes. From Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meiringen (guide, un- 
necessary, to Engstlen 8 fr.), see R. 36; over the Storegg or the Jiichli to 
the Melchthdl (51/2-6 hrs.; guide to Sarnen 12 fr.), see p. 122; over the 
RothgrdlU to the Isenthal (10 hrs. ; guide 17 fr.), see p. 84. 

From Engelberg to Erstfeld (p. 102) over the Schlossberg-Liicke 
(8635'; 10 hrs.; guide 23 fr.), a fine route, but fatiguing. By spending a 
night in the Spannort Hut (see above; 2 hrs. below the pass) mountaineers 
may combine the ascent of the Gross-Spannort (see above) with this 
pass. — To Erstfeld across the Spannortjoch (9610'; 10-11 hrs.; guide 25 
fr.), between the Gross and the Klein-Spannort, toilsome. 

To Wasek over the Grassen Pass (i3rf/'c"^cK/)e, 8917'), 10 hrs., difficult 
(guide to Meien 25 fr.). — To the Steinalp over the 'Wendenjoch (8694'), 
10-11 hrs., fatiguing, but interesting (guide 25 fr.). 

The route to the Surenen Pass leads past the Tatschbacli Fall to 
(I'/ihr.^) Herrenruti (see above), follows the right bank of the Aa to 
(25min.) the frontier of Canton Uri by the Nieder-Surenen Alp 



120 fioute 35. BRU NIG RAILWAY. 

(4134'), and ascends to the (V2 1"".) iSio/feh" (4652'). After a steep 
ascent to the (50 min.) Stieren Fall (best viewed from helow), we 
cross (5 min.) the brook, and in 40 min. more recross it to the 
Blackenalp (5833'), with its chapel. The path then ascends grad- 
ually over snow, which melts in July, to the (IVahr.) pass of the 
Surenen-Eck (7562'), on the S. side of the Blackenstock (9587'). 

The Titlis becomes grander as we ascend , and we observe a 
long range of peaks and glaciers, particularly the Klein- and Gross- 
Spannort and the Schlossberg, extending as far as the Surenen. On 
the other side we survey the mountains enclosing the Schachenthal, 
on the opposite side of the Reuss, the Windg'alle being most con- 
spicuous. On the E. side of the Surenen the snow, which never 
entirely melts, is crossed in '/4hr. in the height of summer. Then a 
steep descent to the(l hr.) Waldnacht-Alp (4754'), which is visible 
from the height in the long valley below. At a stone bridge (1/4 hr. ) 
the road divides. The very steep path in a straight direction leads 
to (I3/4 hr.) Altdor f (j^. lOi); that to the right, crossing the 
bridge, to (2 hrs.) Erstfeld (p. 102). By the latter we reach the 
(5 min.) Bockitobel , with the picturesque falls of the Waldnacht- 
bach (beyond which the guide may be dismissed), descend through 
wood into the valley, traverse the pastures to the village of Erstfeld, 
and cross the Reuss to the station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 102). 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and 
Brienz (Interlaken) . 

Comp. Maps, pp. 76, 144. 

Railwat from Lucerne to (28V2 M.) Meiringen in 3 hra. (fares 8 fr., 5 fr. 
95 c.) ; to (36 M.) Brienz in 33/4 hra. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 90 c). From Brienz 
to Interlaken, steamboat and railway (1V4"2 lirs.). — Carkiage from Alp- 
nach to Meiringen or Brienz, for 4 pers. 40, 6 pers. 50 fr. — Steamboat 
(preferable if time permit) from Lucerne to Alpnach-Siad (3/4-1 V2 hr. ; 
p. 91) ; the direct voyages are timed to connect with the Briinig Railway 
at Alpnach-Stad. 

The Briinig Railway, opened between Alpnach - Stad and Meiringen 
and Brienz in 1888 and between Lucerne and Alpnach-Stad in June, 1^9, 
considerably tacilitates communication between the Lake of Lucerne and the 
Bernese Oberland. As far as (10 M.) Gisvvyl, i. e. about halfway, the 
railway is an ordinary narrow-gauge line, >>ut from that point it sur- 
mounts the pass (3295') alternately by means of the Tack-and-pinion' system 
and the adhesive system, with a maximum gradient of 18 : 100. In point 
of picturesque beauty, however, the Briinig Road is superior , and those 
who visit the Bernese Oberland for the first time may still cross the Briinig 
to Meiringen on foot, from Giswyl or Lungern. 

Lucerne., see p. 73. The Brunig Railway runs to the S.W. 
in a wide curve into the broad valley of the Allmend, and leaving 
Kriens (p. 76), at the foot of the Sonnenberg, to the right, passes 
(3 M.) HoTw (the village with its pretty church lies to the left), and 
approaches the S.W. arm of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 91). 6V2 M. 
Hergiswyl (*Russli), at the foot of Pilatus (bridle-path to the Hotel 
Klimsenhorn, p. 93). The railway now pierces the rocky Lopper- 



SARNEN. 35. Route. 121 

berg by means of a tunnel, '^4 M. in length, and skirts the Lake of 
Alpnach to — 

8 M. Alpnach-Stad, the starting-point of the *PUatus Railway ; 
see p. 91. 

Thence the line proceeds through the partly marshy valley of 
the Aa and across the Kleine Schlierenbach to (O^/o M.) Alpnach or 
Alpnachdorf {IbSO' ; Krone; Sonne; Schlilssel). The church of Alp- 
nach with its slender spire was erected with the proceeds of the 
sale of timber from the forests of Pilatus, which were rendered ac- 
cessible by a wooden slide, 8M. long, and were cut down in 1811-19. 

Beyond Alpnach the train crosses the brawling Grosse Schlieren 
and the Saarner Aa, the right bank of which it follows, past Kdgis- 
wyl (on the right), with its large parquet-factory, to (81/2 M.) 
Kerns- Kdgisioyl. The (IV4 M.) village of Kerns (1865'; *Krone; 
Hirsch ; Rossli), with its pretty church, lies on the hill to the left, 
at the foot of the Stanser Horn (p. 117) and Arnigrat (6720'). From 
Kerns -Kagiswyl to Stans, see p. 92; to St. Niklaus in the Melch- 
thal (see below), pleasant path, 21/4 M. 

13M. Sarnen (1630'; pop. 3900; *Obwaldner Hof; *Adler ; 
Metzger , moderate ; Hirsch , well spoken of ; Pens. Landenberg, 
see below ; Pens. Niederberger, on the 'Boll', ^/^ hr. to the E.), the 
capital of Obwalden, the W. part of Canton Unterwalden , with its 
nunnery and Capuchin monastery, lies at the junction of the Melch- 
thal Aa and the Sarner Aa. The Rathhaus contains portraits of all 
the magistrates of Obwalden from the year 1381 to 1824, and one of 
St. Nikolaus von der Fliie (see below), and a relief model of Unter- 
walden and Hasli. The large church, on a hill, the cantonal hospital, 
the poor house, the Niklas von der Flue Pensionat (for poor chil- 
dren), and the arsenal on the Landenberg (1667'; fine view; pen- 
sion, see above), are conspicuous buildings. The castle of Landen- 
berg, destroyed by the Confederates on New Year's Day, 1308, for- 
merly stood on the last-mentioned hill. 

At the head of the Schlieren- Thai, S'/z hrs. to the W, of >^arnen, lies the 
sequestered -Schwendi-Kaltbad (4737'), with a chalybeate spring and whey- 
cure. The road ascends the W. slope of the Schwendiberg to (1 hr.) Slal- 
den (2614'; refreshments at the cure's), whence a bridle-path crosses the 
meadows of Schwendi and goes on , often through wood, to the C2'/2 hrs.) 
Kaltbad. Thence to the top of the Feuerstein (6697') 2'/2 hrs.; to the 
Schimberger Bad, 2 hrs., see p. 12S. 

To the S.E. of Sarnen opens the Melchthal, an idyllic valley, 12 M. in 
length, studded with numerous chalets. At the upper end is the Melchfee 
(see below), whose waters are lost in a cleft of the rock, and 3 M. below 
reappear as the Melchaa. At the entrance of the valley is St. mklaus 
(2752'), or St. Klaus, the first Christian church erected in this district. The 
ancient tower adjoining it is locally known as Heidenthurm (heathens'' 
tower). At the bottom of the ravine , 3 M. from Sarnen , is the Ranfi, 
formerly a barren wilderness , with the hermitage of St. I\ikolads vou 
DEB FiUE, who is said to have lived here for twenty years without 
other food than the sacramental elements , of which he partook monthly. 
After their victory over Charles the Bold of Burgundy in 1482, the 
confederates assembled at Stans disagreed about the division of the spoil, 
but through the intervention of the venerable hermit the dispute was soon 



122 Route 35. LUNGERN. From Lucerne 

amicably settled. After his death (1487) he was canonised. His memory 
is still revered by the people , and there is scarcely a hut in the Forest 
Cantons that does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus. 

A road (diligence to Melchthal daily in 2 hrs.) leads by St. Mklmisen 
to the (7 M.) village of Melchthal (2933' ; good quarters at the curd's) and 
the (2 M.) Balmmatt (3150'), at the foot of the precipitous /2am),y?»/(; bridle- 
path thence to the Melchsee, 2V2hrs. (see below). From Melchthal a roughish 
path crosses the Storegg (5710') to Engelberg (p. 118) in 41/2 hrs. ; another, 
more interesting, leads thither in 5-6 hrs. over the Juchli (7120'). The 
NUnalphorn (Juchlistock, 7830'; fine view of the Titlis and the Bernese 
Alps) may be ascended in 1 hr. from the Juchli. View still finer from 
the Hiiistock (8790'), reached by good climbers from the Juchli in 2 hrs. 
(comp. p. 119). — From the Melchsee (6472'; 'Hot. Frutt, unpretending, 
pens. 6 fr.) an easy pass crosses the Tannenalp (6500') in I'/i hr. to the 
Engstlen-Alp (p. 124); another, rather rough, leads over the Laubergrat 
(7874') to (4V2 hrs.) Meiringen (p. 168). — The Bohenstollen, etc., see p. 168. 

The railway crosses the Melchaa , which has been conducted 
into the Sarner See (1552'), a lake 4 M. long, and I-I74M. broad, 
■well stocked with fish , which it continues to skirt. The valley of 
Sarnen is pleasing, though without pretension to Alpine grandeur. 
At (15 M.) Sachseln (1598'; *Kreuz, with lake-baths ; Engel; Rossli), 
a thriving village on the E. bank of the lake, is a large church, 
erected in 16B3, containing thebonesof St.Nikolausand other relics. 

Ascending a short distance, from the S. end of the lake, the train 
next halts at (18 M.) Giswyl (1665'; Hotel de la Gare; Posthorn; 
Krone), partly destroyed in 1629 by inundations of the Lauibach. 
A lake was thus formed, and 130 yfears later was drained into the 
Lake of Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard, beside the high- 
lying church ; to the S.W. rise the Giswyler Stock (5950') and the 
Brienzer Rothhorn (my). Beside the station are the relics of a 
chateau of the Rudenz family. 

The Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 169) may be ascended from Giswyl in 6 hrs. ; 
path for the first 3 hrs. good, afterwards steep and disagreeable. Pedestrians 
are recommended to ascend the old ''Brunig Road from Giswyl to (3 hrs.) 
the Briinig Pass (3.396'; 'Hotel Briinig), whence they may descend to 
(1^/4 hr.) Meiringen or (3 hrs.) Brienz. 

At Giswyl, where the railway meets its first serious obstacle, the 
'rack-and-pinion' system begins. The line ascends the side of tlie 
valley at a considerable gradient (10 : 100), traversing wood and 
crossing two torrents, and at Burgeln (to the right) reaches the 
summit of the Kaiserstuhl (2306'). To the right below us as we 
asc nd, we see the winding Briinig Road, and from the top the triple 
peak of the Wetterhorn is visible to the S. through the depression 
of Brunig. The railway now changes to the adhesive system and 
proceeds, high above the picturesque Lake of Lungern (2162'; 
13/4 M. long) and through a short tunnel to — 

22V2 M. Lungern (2475'). The large village (pop. 1763'; Lowe 
^- Hot. Bri'miy , high charges; Bar, all belonging to the same land- 
lord) is, with the adjoining Ober-Seewies, the last village in the 
valley and lies '/2 ^- from the S. end of the lake, half of which was 
drained into the Lake of Sarnen in 1836. — The Dundelsbach forms 
a picturesque fall on the hillside to the W. 



to Brienz. BRtJNIG. 35. Route. 1 23 

The second steep gradient beg:ins beyond Lnngern; picturesque 
retrospect. The train passes through the Kdppeli Tunnel (2970'; 
150 yds. in length) and ascends the wooded Briinigmatt-Thal (above 
us, to the right, is the road), at a moderate gradient, which be- 
comes steeper before (281/2 M.) Brunig (3295'; Rail. Restaurant; 
Pension iS' Kurhaus Briinig, new), situated on the crest of the saddle, 
not far from the old Briinig Pass. Fine view; opposite us tower 
the Engelhorner (p. 167) and the Faulhorn chain (p. 163); to the 
left we overlook the valley of Meiringen as farastheKirchet(p. 171); 
at the foot of the mountains to the S. is the lower fall of the Reichen- 
bach (p. 167); opposite is the fall of the Oltschibach (p. 169); 
below us flows the Aare , and to the right is part of the Lake of 
Brienz. 

Fine prospect from the Wi/ler Alp (4856'), IV2 hr. to the N.W. of the 
Briinig; more extensive from the Wylerhorn (6580'), 3 hrs. from the pass. 

From Buunig to Meiringen, on foot in 2 hrs., attractive. From the 
road, about 1/4 M. below the station, a footpath diverges to the right, and 
crossing the railway, runs chiefly through wood to (3 M.) Hohfluh (p. 168). 
Before reaching the inn we turn to the left, take the first turning to the. 
right, and cross the pastures to the right again via Wasserwendi and 
Golderen to the Hotel Alpbach and (3 M.) Meiringen (p. 168). After Hoh- 
fluh we have a continuous and picturesque view of the Wetterhorner and 
Oberhasli. 

The railway has been carried down the steep rocky wall at a 
considerable gradient (average 103/4:100; maximum 12 : 100) by 
means of blasting, retaining-walls under overhanging cliffs, and 
cuttings. We cross the brawling Grossbnch, Kehlhach, and Hausen- 
bach (charming view at the Brunnenfluli), enter the Aaretbal, and 
beyond Hausen reach — 

281/2 M. Meiringen, p. 168. Thence to Brienz and Interlaken, 
see R. 50. 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 102, US. 

Q'A hrs. : Im-Hof I'/i, Engstlen-Alp 5 (Lauenen direct from Meiringen 
21/2, Engstlen-Alp 2'/2 hrs.), Joch I1/2, Triibsee 1/2, Engelberg IV2 hr. — 
Horse from Im-Hof to Engelberg 15, guide 8 fr. — If the traveller can 
devote two days to this interesting journey (still more attractive in the 
reverse direction), he should sleep on the Engstlen-Alp, where an after- 
noon may be pleasantly spent. 

From Meiringen to (lV4hr.) /m-Ho/" (2054'), see p. 171. Two 
routes lead thence to the Genthal. We follow the Susten route 
(p. 125) to the (3/4 hr.) foundry in the Miihlethal; then, beyond the 
(3/4 hr.) bridge over the Genthalwasser, ascend to the left through 
wood to the (1 hr.) Genthalalp (see below). Or we may diverge to 
the left from the Susten route at Wyler, 20 min. from Im-Hof, 
cross the Gadmenbach, turn to the left again after 5 min., and 
ascend rapidly through pastures and wood. Near the (1 hr.) chalets 
of Lauenen (.3800') begins the Genthalalp. 

A path called the '' ffvndschi(pfi\ shorter by '/s hr., but very narrow 
at places, and somewhat dizzy (guide advisable), leads from Meiringen 



124 Route 3(i. KNGSTLEN-ALP. 

straight on for '/-^ M. beyond the bridge over the brook and then, ascend- 
ing to the left, skirts the brow of the Hasliberg, aflording a striking 
view of the valleys which unite at Im-Hof far below, to the (2Vi hrs.) 
Latienen-lIiUten. 

The path soon approaches the Genthalbach, and follows its right 
bank. On the (1/4 hr.) Leimboden (3920') our path is joined on the 
right by that from Miihlethal above mentioned (small auberge on the 
left bank). We now gradually ascend the monotonous Genthal. Be- 
hind us rise the Wetterhorner and the Hangend-Gletscherhorii at the 
end of the Urbachthal (p. 172). In 20 min. we pass the Oenthalhiitten 
(3993'), on the left bank of the brook, and after a slight ascent 
reach (1 hr.) the SchwarzenthalhiUten (4596' ; auberge). 

The valley now becomes more interesting. From the precipices 
of the Gadmer Fluht (9750') on the right, which become grander 
as we proceed, falls a series of cascades, varying in volume ac- 
cording to the state of the melting snow , and we at last come 
to eight of these close together (AchtelsassbdcheJ. The Enystlen- 
bach, as the brook is named above this point, also forms several 
considerable falls. The path crosses the stream and ascends, often 
steeply, through beautiful wood, to the (lY4hr.) *Engstlen-Alp 
(6033'; *Inn, R.,L.,&A. 31/4, D.4, pens.6fr.), a beautiful pasture, 
with fine old pines and 'Alpine cedars'. (Excellent water, tem- 
perature 40-42" Fahr.) *View, totheS.W., of the majestic Wetter- 
horn; to the left the Schreckhorner; to the right the Bliimlisalp; to 
to the E. the Wendenstocke and the Titlis. — The Wunderbrunnen 
('miraculous spring'), near the inn, is an intermittent spring which 
only flows in wet weather and in spring during the melting of the 
snow, usually about noon. 

Excursions. Walk to Melchsee-Fkutt (2 hrs.; guide unnecessary). 
From the inn we walk to the N.W. to the waterfall and ascend rapidly 
on the right side, soon obtaining a splendid view of the Bernese Alps 
famong which the Finsteraarhorn comes in view to the left of the 
Schreckhorner). At the top we round the grassy SpicherJIuh (6690') , pass 
a small lake, and reach the (1 hr.) Tannenalp (6500'), a large Alp with 
numerous chalets. We next traverse beautiful level pastures , pass two 
other small lakes , and reach the (1 hr.) H6tal Melchsee-FrutL (6472') ; see 
p. 122. — Ascent of the Erzegg (7140') from the Tannenalp, or from Frutt 
1 hr., easy and repaying. — The Bofienstollen (8150'), a magnificent point, 
but somewhat fatiguing, takes 2 hrs. from Frutt (comp. p. 168). 

Ascents. Schafbevij {Owartler; 7950'; 2 hrs.) not difficult; Grauslock 
(8737'; 21/2-3 hrs. ; with guide), fatiguing; Wildgeissberg (8904': 3 hrs. ; with 
guide), an admirable point, hut rather laborious (comp. p. 119). — Wenden- 
slock (9990'; 4 hrs. ; with guide), difficult, for experts only; imposing view. 
The ascent of the 'Titlis (p. 119) is shorter from the Engstlen-Alp than 
from Engelberg (p. 118). From the (IV2 hr.) Joch Pass we ascend to the 
right over rocks, debris, and snow, and reach the (3V2-4 hrs.) top after a 
steep and fatiguing climb. Guide from the inn 10 fr. (charged in the bill) 
and gratuity (with descent to Engelberg 20 fr.). The start should be made 
not later than 2 a.m., with lanterns. 

OvEK THE Satteli TO (tadmen, 3V2 - 4 hrs. (guide 6 fr.), a fine route. 
At the W. end of the Engstlen - See (p. 125) we cross the Engstlenbach 
to the Alp Scltarmadlager, and ascend a narrow path on the slope of the 
Gadmer Fluh to the (2 hrs.) Satteli (splendid view of the Gadmenthal, 
Trift Glacier, and Bernese Alps). Then a long and steep descent to (1V2-2 



JOCH PASS. 30. Route. 125 

hrs.) Oadmen (p. 126). A still finer view is obtained from the 'AchteUass- 
grat (^GrdtW), 1/2 hr. beyond the Satteli and a few hundred feet lower. 

For 1/2 lir. the bridle-path to (31/2 hrs.) Engelberg skirts the 
EngsUen-See (6075'), a lake II/4 M. long, abounding in trout, 
and then ascends, in view of the Wendenstocke , with the Pfaffen 
and Joch Glaciers, to the (1 hr.) Joch Pass (7245'; view limited). 
A tolerable path now descends over rock and detritus to the 
(Va^ir.) Obere Triibsee-Alp, on the S.E. side of the turbid Triibsee 
(5795') and then leads to the N.E. through the flat and marshy 
valley (with the Triibsee on the left) , and across the brook which 
descends from the glaciers of the Titlis, to the (3/4 M.) *Hotel Hess, 
on the summit of the Pfaffenwand (5870'). The line view hence 
of the Titlis and the Engelberger-Thal is surpassed by that from 
the Bitzistock (6225'; easily ascended in 20 min. from the hotel), 
which includes also the Schlossberg, Spannorter, and other moun- 
tains. Ascent of the Titlis, see p. 119. 

The path now descends the steep Pfaffenwand in zigzags, leads 
over the Gersc/mJAi;? (4125') towards a clump of pines, enters a wood, 
crosses theEn^cifteryerAaatthefoot of the hill, and reaches (I'/'i^r.) 
Engelberg (p. 118). 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass. 

Comj). Maps, ;jp. 102, 118, lOS. 

12 hrs. : Im-Hof IV4, Gadmen 3, Am Stein 23/4, Susten-Scheidegg IVi, 
Meien 23/4, Wasen 1 hr. Horse 35 (or, for two days, 40), guide 21 fr. (un- 
necessary). 

From Meiringen to Im-Hof (2055'), IV4 hr., see p. 171. The 
Susten Road, constructed by Bern and Uri in 1811, and still 
tolerably well kept on the Bernese side (practicable for driving as 
far as the Stein Inn), diverges here to the E. from the Grimsel route. 
It traverses pleasant meadows and wooded slopes , and skirts the 
winding Gadmenbach. At one time the Wetterhorn, Wellborn, and 
Engelhorner, at another the Schwarzhorn group form the back- 
ground towards the W. 

The lower valley is called the Miihlethal, above which is the Nes- 
senthal. Beyond (20 min.) Wyler the path to the Engstlen-Alp 
(p. 124) diverges to the left. The road crosses (10 min.) the Gadmen- 
bach, and at an (1/4 hr.) old iron-foundry the Genthalbach, on the 
left bank of which a second path (see p. 123) to the Engstlen-Alp 
diverges. At (2/4 hr.) Miihlestalden (3117') the narrow Triftthal 
opens towards the S.E., with the Trift Glacier in the background. 

Triftthal (comp. Map, p. 108; 41/2 brs. to the clnb-hnt; guide neces- 
sary ; Andr. v. Weissenfluh of Miihlestalden ; Joh. Moor and Joh. Luchs of 
Gadmen). The path ascends on the left bank of the Tviftbach and on the 
left side of the ice-fall to the (3 hrs.) simple Windegg-HiUte (.6237'). We now 
cross the glacier, here tolerably level, and mount the steep rocks of the 
Thdllistock to the (l'/2 hr.) aub JIul {Trlfthiitte, 8250'), affording a good 
survey of the upper basin of the Trift Glacier. From the club-hut over 
the Trift-limmi (10,170') and the Uhone Glacier to the Fi(rka (p. 1161 or 
to the Grimsel Hospice (p. 173l, 9 hrs., fatiguing. — The Dammastock 



126 Route 37. SUSTENPASS. 

(11,910'; splendid view) is ascended without very serious difficulty from 
the club-hut in 4-5 brs. (descent by the Rhone Glacier and Nagelisgratli 
to the Grimsel, 7 brs.). — The Schneestock (^llfiQT), Thieralplistuck (11,1^), 
and Diec/iterhorn ili.,V2(y) may also be ascended from the club-hut without 
difficulty. — Passes to the Goschenen-Alp over the Winterberg liainje {Maas- 
plankjoc/i, Damma Pass, Winterjoch) difficult (comp. p. 108). — Over the 
Tiefensatlel (about 10,820') and the Tiefen Glacier (p. 115) to the Furka, 
interesting, and in certain states of the snow not difficult. — Interesting 
passes also cross the Furtwang Sattel (8392') to GiUtannen (a steep ascent 
of 3 brs. from the Windegg ; descent by the Sleinhaus-Alp to Guttannen 
in 2 hrs.), and the Stein-Limmi (8970') to the Stein-Alp. The latter route 
leads from the chalet of GraggiSiitte, opposite the Windegg on the right 
side of the glacier, in 3 hrs. to the col, between the Giglisiock and Vorder- 
Thierberg, and descends over the Stein-Limmi Glacier and round the slopes 
of the Thaleggli to the (2 hrs.) Stein Inn (see below). By combining the 
two last-named passes, a good walker may reach the Stein Inn from Gut- 
tannen in a single day (11-12 hrs.). 

The road crosses the Gadmenbach and ascends by Schaftelen to 
(1 hr.) TJnterfuren (3848'), where the beautiful Oadmenthal begins, 
and(20min.)the village of Gadmen(3945'; Inn, moderate), consist- 
ing of the hamlets of An der Egg, Biihl, and Obermatt. (Path over the 
Sdtteli to the Engstlen-Alp, see p. 125.) The green valley with its 
fine old maple-trees contrasts strikingly with the barren and perpen- 
dicular Oadmer Fluh (see p. 124). To the E., on the slope of the 
Uratstocke (9545'), lies the Wenden Glacier. 

After a level stretch, the road ascends through wood in numer- 
ous windings to the chalets of Feldmoos (4935), and then traverses 
a wild rocky region ('Holle') to the (2i/2 hrs.) Stein Inn (6122'), 
at the foot of the huge *Stein Glacier. 

Over the Susten-Limmi to the Goschenen-Alp, 9 hrs., laborious. We 
ascend the slopes of the Thaleggli (on the W. side of the Stein Glacier), 
cross the Stein-Limmi Glacier to the Thierbergli, and traverse the neve of 
tlie Stein Glacier to the Susten-Limmi (10,180'), lying to the S.W. of the 
Gletscherhorn (11,457'). Descent over the Siisten Glacier to the Kehlen-Alp 
(7562') and across the Kelde Glacier to the Hintere Riithe and Gbschentn- 
Alp (p. lOS). — A similar pass is the Thierberg-Limmi (about 10,500'): 
we cross the Stein Glacier to the Joch between the Steinberg and the 
Jlittier-Thierberg, and descend the Kehle Glacier to the Goschenen-Alp. — 
Ascent of the Brunnenstock (11,5200, the highest of the Suitenhbrner , 
toilsome, but interesting (guide 30 fr.). 

Over the Stein-Limmi to the Trift Glacier (5 hrs. to the Graggi Hut), see 
above. Another route crosses the snowy pass of Zwischen-Thierbergen 
(about 9780'), between the Vorder- and the Sinter- Thierberg , to the (5-G 
hrs.) Tri/thiitte (p. 125). — To Engelberg over the Wendenjoch, see p. 119. 

The bridle-path now ascends above the moraine , making a 
long circuit to the right (which a footpath cuts off), and overlooking 
the grand Stein Glacier, environed by the Sustenhorner, Susten- 
limmi, Gwachtenhorn, Vorder- and Hinter-Thierberg, and Gigli- 
stock, to the (I74 hr.) Susten-Scheidegg (7420'), which affords an 
admirable survey of the imposing mountains bounding the Meien- 
thal on the N. and culminating in the Spannorter (p. 119). 

The path, now uninteresting, winds down to the Meienhach, 
a brook issuing from the Kalchthal, a wild gorge on the right, into 
which avalanches frequently fall from the Stiicklistock (10,855') 
and the SustenliiJrner (see above). Below us lie the Susten-Alp 



ENTLEBUCH. 3.9. Route. 127 

(5767'), on the right, and the (1 hr.) Gufer flatten- Alp (5725') on 
the left. The path, now level, traverses the stony valley of theMeien- 
Reiiss, which consists here of several branches, and crosses the brook 
twice. It next crosses the deep ravine of the (8/4 hr.) Qorezmeitlen- 
bach (5137'), and passes the Gorezmettlen-Alp . Several brooks issue 
from the Ruttifirn on the right. 

The first group of houses ("20 min.) is Fdrnigen (4787' ; Inn, 
poor); then (40 min.) Meien (4330'; Inn above the chapel), con- 
sisting of several hamlets (Dorfli, Hiisen, etc.). Above Wasen we 
pass the Meienschanz (3600'), an intrenchment erected in 1712 
during the Religious War (p. 158), and destroyed by the French 
In 1799. Descending rapidly for a short distance, and crossing the 
St. Gotthard Railway, we at length reach (1 hr.) Wasen (p. 104). 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal. 

59 M. Railway (Jura-Beni-Lucenie), 3-4 hrs. (lil'r., 7fr. 50, 5fr. 30c.). 

Lucerne, see p. 73. — Near the Reuss bridge the train diverges 
to the left from the Ziirich line (p. 71), and passes through a 
tunnel under the Zimmeregg, 1248yds. long, into the broad dale of 
the Kleine Emme. 3 M. Littau, at the base of the wooded Sonnenberg 
(p. 77); 71/2 M. Matters (1693'; Kreuz), with a handsome church. 

Road hence to (21/2 M.) Schwarzenberg (2760'; "Weisses Kreuz, 'pens'. 
incl. R. 41,2-5 fr. ; 'Kurhaus Matt, moderate), on the hill to the S., a 
pleasant summer-resort. About 2 fll. above it is the rustic Kurhaus Eigen- 
thal (Mlb') . in a sheltered situation. (Fine view of Lucerne and its lake 
from the Wiirzenegg.) Hence to (6 M.) Kries, via Herrtjottswald, see p. 77. 

From Schachen (see below), the old Brajiegg Road leads past the (2M.) 
Farnbiihler Bad (2310'), a well-organised Kurhaus, with a spring impreg- 
nated with iron and soda, and over the Bramegg (3366') to (5 31.) Entlebuch. 

Above Schachen (11/2 M. from Malters) the valley contracts. 
The train approaches the Emme, and crosses it near Werthenstein 
(on the left), with its handsome old monastery, now a deaf-and- 
dumb asylum. Beyond a short tunnel we reach (12'/2 M-) WoM- 
hausen (1873'; pop. 1659; Rossli; Kreuz), a large village, divided 
by the Emme into Wohlhausen-Wigg em on the left bank, and Wohl- 
hausen-Markt opposite. — About 6 M. to the W., at the foot of the 
Napf (seep. 128), lies the Kurhaus Menzberg (3314'), a health-resort. 

We here enter the Entlebuch, a valley 15 M. long, with rich 
pastures. The train recrosses the Emme and ascends the E. side 
of the valley (several embankments and four tunnels). 

171/2 M. Entlebuch (2225' ; ""Hotel du Port; Drei Konige; *Dr. 
Kdgg's Pension}, a well-built village, picturesquely situated. — 
Ascent of the Napf, see p. 128. 

In the Entlenthal, on the W. side of the Schimherg (p. 123), 8 M. to 
the S., is the Schimberger Bad (4677'), with an alkaline sulphur-spring. 
Road from Entlebuch to (6 M.) the Entlenbriicke ; thence by a bridle- 
path (carriage to the bridge 8, for two persons 10 fr. ; horse to the bridge 7, 
to the Baths 10 fr.) to the well-equipped Kurhaus, the property of Dr. Schifl- 
mann , was destroyed by fire in 1885, but has been rebuilt. Close to the 
bouse are pleasant wood-walks with charuiing views towards the N. ; and 



128 Route 3H. EMMENTHAL. 

a good path ascend-s in 1 hr. to the top of the Schimbei'g (5968'J, which 
affords an admirable Alpine panorama. Interesting longer excursions 
to (I'/ohr.) UeiligJcreuz (see below); to the (2',;.> hrs.) "Feuerstein (eTOC), 
with fine view ; to the (2V2 hrs.) Schwendi-Kalthad (p. 121), etc. 

The train crosses the rapid Entlenbach , which here falls into 
the Emme. On the left lies the village of Hasle, prettily situated. 

22 M. Schupfheim (2388'; pop. 2800; Adler; RdssU), the 
capital of the valley. About ^2 ^^- from the station is the Badhaus 
and Kurliaus Schilpfheim , with a chalybeate spring containing io- 
dine. To the E. (17.2hr.) is Heiligkreuz (3700'; a rustic inn), a 
summer-resort, with a fine view. 

A road (diligence twice daily) leads hence to the S. through the valley 
of the Kleine Emme, the upper part of which is rocky and narrow, and 
past the pretty village of Flilhli (Hdt.-Pens. Kreuzhiich), to (10 M.) Soren- 
berg (3812'; *Inn), in the upper Emmenthal, or Marienthal. Guide thence 
to the (4 hrs.) summit of the Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 169), from which a bridle- 
path descends to (2 hrs.) Brienz. Comp. p. 169. 

We now cross the Kleine Emme, which rises on the Brienzer 
Rothhorn, and ascend the valley of the Weisse Emme to — 

26 M. Escholzmatt (2815'; *Lbwe; Krone), a scattered village 
(3085 inhab.), on the watershed between the Entlebuch and Em- 
menthal; then descend to (29 M.) Wiggen ('1%QQ' \ Rossli), follow 
the right bank of the Ilfis , and reach (321/2 M.) Trubschachen 
(2396'), at the confluence of the Trubbach and Ilfls, the first village 
in Canton Bern. 

The ~Napf (4020'; 3>/2-4 hrs., guide unnecessary ; "Inn at the top, visited 
as a health-resort, pens. 5-6 fr.), to the N. of Trubschachen, is an admirable 
point of view. A carriage-road leads via (2'/4 M.) Trub (2675'; Inn) to 
(6 M.) jl/e<??ere (3454' ; carriage for 1 pers. to this point, 6 fr.), and a bridle- 
path thence to the P/-» '^''•) top of the Kapf, whence there is a fine pano- 
rama from the Sentis to the Dole, and a beautiful view of the Bernese 
Alps. — From Entlebuch (p. 127) a road crosses the Grosse and the Kleine 
Emme, to the W.; we then either follow the road by Bopleschwand to 
(b M.) liomoos (2592'; Inn), or reach it by a direct path in 1 br. ; from 
Romoos a good bridle-path leads to the top in 2'/2 hrs. more. — From 
the Kapf a footpath, with an almost continuously fine view, leads via the 
(6 M.) Ltisuhiitie (rustic inn), the Liideren-Gassli, and the Rafriiti (see below) 
to (12 M.) Langiiau (guide convenient, 5-6 fr.). 

351/2 M. Langnau (2245'; pop. 7582; *.ffjrscft, moderate ; *Xoi«e; 
Biir ; Hoi. Bahnhof\ Hot. Emmenthal}, a large and wealthy village, 
the capital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 25 M. long, 10-12 M. 
wide, watered by the Jlfis and the Grosse Emme, and one of the 
most fertile in Switzerland. The cheese of the Emmenthal is much 
esteemed; the carefully kept pastures, the fine breed of cattle, 
and the neat dwellings with their pretty gardens bear witness to 
the prosperity of the natives. 

Railway to Burgdorf , see p. 17. — The Bageschicand Hohe , 1 hr. to 
the N.W. , commands a line view of the Emmenthal and the Alps; the 
view from the Rafriiti (3950'), 2'/4 hrs. to the N. , is still more extensive 
(Panorama Ijy G. Studer). 

Beyond Langnau the train crosses the Ilfls and the Emme. 38 M. 
Emmenmatt, 40 M. Signau (2090'; Thurm; Bar), 44 M. Zdziwyl 
(Krone), thriving villages. It then skirts the Hurnberg in a wide 



SEETHAL. 39. Route. 129 

curve to (46 M.) Konolfingen, 3 M. to the S.E. of which is the fre- 
quented Schwendlenbad (2830'), surrounded by fine woods. 481/2M. 
Tagertschi ; 51 M. Worb (Lowe; Stern), a large village with an 
old Schloss. Pleasing view of the Stockhorn chain to the left. 

From Worb a carriage-road runs to the E. to (2 M.) the frequented 
watering-place of Enggisieiu (2264'), situated in a pleasant mountain-valley, 
and (1 M. farther) the charmingly situated 'Riittihubelbad (2414'; un- 
pretending and moderate), with a saline chalybeate spring and a good 
view, especially line from the Knorihiibel (3027'; 35 min.). Magnificent 
views are also afforded by the Gummegg (3208'), reached via Walkringen 
in 11 2 hr., and by the Ballenbiihl, the W. summit of the Htirnberg, reached 
via Schlosswyl in 1^/4 hr. (descent to the railwav-station at Tagertschi in 
20 rain.). 

54 M. Gumlingen, junction of the Bern and Thun line (change 
carriages for Thun, p. 139). Thence to (59 M.) Bern, see p. 139. 



39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (Aarau). The Seethal 
Railway. 

291/2 M. Steam Tramwat in 23/4-4 hrs. ; 2nd cl. 4 fr. 85, 3rd cl. 3 fr. 
30 c. — This 'Seethal Railway' from Emmenbrucke to Lenzburg offers a 
pleasant tour, though dusty in summer. The gauge is that of the ordi- 
nary railways, the carriages of which can run on this line. 

From Lucerne to (21/2 M.) Emmenbriiclr^, see p. 20; here we 
change carriages for the 'Seethalbahn', whic'u diverges to the right. 

4 M. Emmen (1410'; Stern), near the Reuss, on the right bank 
of which, 1/2 M. to the E., is the old nunnery of Rathhausen, now 
an asylum for poor children. We traverse the fertile Emmenboden 
to (6M.) Waldibruck. The line quits the road, here unsuitable for 
a tramway, and ascends, affording a fine view of the Rigi to the right, 
to (8 M.) Esche'nbach(ibQO' ; Rossli; Lowe), with its large Cistercian 
Abbey and valuable gravel -pits in the vicinity. (Diligence twice 
daily in 40 min. to Gisikon, p. 71.) 

Above Eschenbach the line rejoins the road, crosses at (9^/2 M.) 
Ballwyl (1693') the watershed between the Reuss and the Aa, and 
descends into the Seethal, belonging partly to Lucerne and partly 
to Aargau, one of the most fertile and attractive valleys in Central 
Switzerland. This 'lake-valley', IS'^ M. long, is bounded on the 
E. by the long Lindenberg (2953') and on the W. by the Ehrlose 
(2670') and the Homberg (2595'), and in the middle of it lie the 
pretty Baldegg Lake (or Obere See') and the larger Hallwyl Lake 
(or Vntere See), amidst pastures sprinkled with fruit-trees. 

11 M. Hochdorf (1653'; *Hirsch'), a picturesque and prosperous 
village, with beautiful pine-woods in the vicinity. 

Excursions. On a hill to the E. (1/2 hr.) is the cantonal deaf-and-dumb 
asylum of Hohenrain (2014'), formerly a command iry of the knights of 
St. John, with a fine view of the Alps. Thence in II/2 hr. to Schloss Hor- 
hen (2625'; p. 21), a health-resort, affording a superb view to the N. and 
E.; then to the 0/2 hr.) ruined castle of Lieli, another fine point of view, 
to ('/2 hr.) Augslholz (Hydropathic Establishment ; Hotel), and back to 
(I/2 hr.) Hochdorf. The whole excursion may be made by carriage. 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 9 



130 Route 39. LENZBURG. 

To the W. of Hochdorf roads lead by Romei'swy I io (4 M.) Oherreinach , 
a ruined castle, with an admirable view of the Seethal and the Jura; by 
the pilgrimage-shrine of Hildisrieden to the (5 M.) chapel commemorative 
of the battle of Sempach (p. 20); and by Urswijl to (3'/2 M.) Rain, near 
which is Obei-buc/ien (2133'), ^where we obtain a picturesque survey of 
Pilatus and the Entlobuch Mts. 

121/2 M. Baldegg (Lowe) a pretty village with an old castle, 
now a nunnery and girls' school, lies at the S. E. end of the Bal- 
degger See (_1632'), a lake 3 M. long. Skirting the E. bank of the 
lake, we next reach (15 M.) Oelfingen (Stein) , where the culture 
of the vine begins. On the right is the castle of Heidegg , and 
3/4 M. to the N. is the pretty village of Hilzkirch (Kranz ; EngelJ, 
once a Teutonic commandery, with a seminary for teachers. 

To the N. of Hitzkirch a road leads by Aliicis and Aesch to (5 M.) 
Fahrwatigen (Bar) and Meisierschtcanden (Lowe ; 'Pens. Seerose), two large 
and nearly adjacent villages, where straw-plaiting is the chief industry 
(see below) ; thence bv Sarmensdorf, past Schloss Hilfikon, to Villmergen 
and (5 M.) Wohlen (p. 21). 

Still running towards the N. W., the tramway now intersects 
the fertile plain between the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. I6I/4M. 
Richensee, with the ruins of the Gri'tnenburg , which was destroyed 
in 1386, staitding upon an enormous erratic block. 17 M. Ermensee, 
a well-to-do village on the Aa. At (18 M.) Mosen the tramway 
reaches the HaUwyler.See (1383'), a lake 51/2 M. long and I1/4 M. 
broad, and ascends on its W. bank to — • 

20 M. Beinwyl (1700'; 1682 inhab.; Lowe), a busy, thriving 
village with considerable cigar-manufactories, commanding a charm- 
ing view of the lake. ,, 

Railway in 5 min. to (IV4 M.) Reinach (Bar) and in 9 min. to (2^/2 M.) 
Menzikon (Stern), two industrial villages in the upper Winenthal. — A 
pleasant excursion from Beinwyl is the ascent of the Homherg (2595'), ^ji hr. 
to the N.W. ; beautiful view of the Alps and the Jura Mts. 

The cars now run high above the lake to (211/4 M.) Birrwyl, 
with its large factories, and descend thence to (2372 M.) Boniswyl 
(Rail. Restaurant), a busy wine-trading place. 

To Fahewangen diligence twice daily in 1 hour. The road leads past 
the handsome old chateau of Hallwyl, the ancestral seat of the distin- 
guished family of (hat name, to (l'/2 M.) Seengen (Bar), a large village, 
with the burial-vaults of the Hallwyl family. About V2 M. to the S. E. 
is the Brestenherg Hydropathic, formerly a chateau of Hans Rudolf v. 
Hallwyl, built in 1625, prettily situated among vineyards at the N. end 
of the Lake of Hallwyl. From Brestenberg we follow the E. bank to 
Tennicyl, Meisterschicanden, and (2 M.) Fahrwangen (see above). 

24 1/2 M. Niederhallwyl-Diirrendsch ; Ib^j.^M. Seon (Stern), a 
large manufacturing village (1794 inhab.). 

291/2 M. Lenzburg (1300'; 2457 inhab.,- *Krone; Lowe), a busy 
little town on the Aa, with the large cantonal prison. On a hill 
above the town, tOi.*he E., stands the old Schloss Lenzburg (1663'; 
auberge at the top; fine view). Opposite, to the W., rises the 
Staufberg (1710'). 

From Lenzburg to Aarau and Baden, see p. 21. 



III. BERNESE OBERLAND. 



40. Bern 133 

Enge; Gurten ; Zimmerwald, 139. 

41. From Bern to Thun 139 

Environs of Thun ; the Gurnigelbad. 141. 

42. The Niesen 141 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. St. Beaten- 
berg 143 

Sigriswyl ; Blume ; the Sigriswyl-Grat ; the Rothhorn ; the 
Schaflnch, 14i. — TheFaulenseebad, 144. — Amnisbiihel ; 
Gemmenalphorn, 145. — Xew road from Thun by Merligen 
to Interlaken ; Beatenhohle, 145. 

4i. Interlaken and Environs 145 

Excursions. Heimwehlluh ; Harder; Scheinige Platte; 
Habkernthal ; Gemmenalpliorn; Hohgant; Augstmatt- 
horn; Abendberg; Saxetenthal ; Sulegg, 148-51. 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. .Staubbach . . 151 

From Zweilutscbinen to Isenlluh and Miirren, 152. 

46. Upper Lauterbrunnen-Thal. Miirren. Schmadribach 153 

The Allmendhubel ; the Obere Winteregg; the Schilt- 
horn, 154. — TheSefinenthal. From Jlurren to the 
Obere Steinberg, 155. — From Lauterbrunnen over the 
Sefinenfurgge to the Kienthal, and over the Diinden- 
grat to Kandersteg, 156. — P'rom Lauterbrunnen over the 
Tschingel Pass to Kandersteg, 156. — From Lauter- 
brunnen over the Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal, 157. — 
Schmadrijnch, Lauinenthor, Roththal-Sattel, and Ebnc- 
lluhjoch, 157. 

47. From Interlaken to Griudelwald. Wengernalp . . . 157 

The .Tungfrau ; the Silberhorn, 1.59. — The Jlettleualp ; 
Guggihiitte, 159. — The Lauberhorn; the Tschuggen, 
160. — From Grindelvvald over the Eismeer to Zasen- 
berg, 162. — The Mannlichen ; Mettenberg ; Schreckhorn ; 
Miinch ; Eiger, 162. — From Grindelwald over the Strahl- 
egg and the Finsteraarjoch or Lauteraarjoch to the 
Grimsel Hospice, 162. — • From Grindelwald over the 
.lungfraujoch, Monchjoch, Eigerjoch, and Fiescherjoch 
to the Eggishorn, 163. 

48. Tlic Faulhorn 163 

The Rothihorn ; Schwarzhorn, 165. — From the Scheinige 
Platte to the Faulhorn, 165. 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui. 
Falls of the Reichenbach 165 

The Wetterhorn ; Berglistoek, 165. — Rosenlaui Glacier ; 
Dossenhiitte; Wetter-Limmi, 166. — Gorge of the Aare; 
Hasliberg; Hohenstollen. 168. 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz . . . 168 

Brienzer Rothhorn, 169. — Road from Brienz to Inter- 
laken, 170. 

51. The Giessbach 170 

The Enge ; Axalp ; Uinterburg-See, 171. — Ascent of 
the Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 171. — From the 
Giessbach to Interlaken, 171. 



132 BERNESE OBERLAND. 



52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier, Grimsel . . 171 

The Urbach-Thal; GauliPass; Berglijoch; Dossenhiitte, 
172. — The Kleine Siedelhorn; Unteraar Glacier; Doll- 
fus Pavilion ; Ewigschneehorn ; Finsteraarhorn, 173, 174. 
— From the Grimsel over the Oberaarjoch or the Studer- 
joch to Fiesch, 176. 

53. From (Thun) Splez to the Gemmi and Leuk .... 175 

From Spiez to Aeschi and Miihlenen, 176. — The Kien- 
thal ; Gamchiliicke ; Biittlassen ; Gspaltenhorn ; Wilde 
Frau, 176. — From Frutigen by Adelboden to Lenk ; 
from Adelboden to the Gemmi, etc., 177. — The Blaue 
See, 177. — The Oeschinen-Thal ; Bliimlisalp ; Dolden- 
horn ; Friindenhorn ; Diindenhorn, 178. — The Balm- 
horn ; Altels, 179. — Excursions from Bad Leuk ; Torrent- 
horn, etc., 181. 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass . . . 182 

The Hohgleifen; Bietschhorn, 182. — From Ried to 
Leuk over the Ferden Pass, the Gitzi-Furgge, the Resti 
Pass, the Faldum Pass, or the Niven Pass, 182. 

55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 183 

Source of the Simme,184.— The Oberlaubhorn ; Miilker- 
blatt; Iffigensee; Wildhorn; Rohrbachstein ; Wildstru- 
bel, 184. — From Lenk to Gsteig, Saanen, and Leuk, 185. 

56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal . . 186 

From Latterbach to Matten through the Diemtiger 
Thai, 186. — The Stockhorn, 186. — Bad Weissenburg ; 
over the Gantrist Pass to the Gurnigelbad, 187. — From 
Reidenbach to Bulle, 187. — From Saanen to Chateau 
d'Oex, 188. 



Time. A glimpse at the beauties of the Bernese Oberland may be ob- 
tained in four days. (Quarters for the night are indicated by Italics.) 
1st Day. From Bern by railvifay to Thun in 1 hr., steamboat to Darligen in 
IV4 hr., railvi'ay to Interlaken in 10 min. — 2nd Day. Drive in I'/z hr. to 
Lauterbrannen, vpalk over the Wengernalp and Little Scheidegg to Griii- 
delwald (6 hrs.). — 3rd Day. Walk over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen 
(63/4 hrs.). — 4th Day. Drive to Brienz (I'/z hr.), take steamboat to the 
Giessbach, and return to Interlaken and Bern. — Most travellers, however, 
v\rill proceed from Meiringen over the Briinig to Lucerne , or over the 
Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier, etc. (Those who come from Lucerne gener- 
ally cross the Briinig to Meiringen, and then visit Grindelwald, Lanter- 
brnnnen, and Interlaken.) In any case the Giessbach merits a visit (after- 
noon excursion from Interlaken). Another day or two may be pleasantly 
devoted to Miirren, the Faulhorn, and the Scheinige Platte. — Those who 
prefer it may omit the Wengernalp, and drive from Interlaken to Grindel- 
wald (p. 153). Thence to Meiringen, and from Im-Boden to the Grimsel, 
there are bridle-paths only. 

Guides , Horses, Carriages. The charges are given in the respective 
routes. Where there is no fixed tariff, the charge per day for a carriage 
with one horse is usually 15fr., with two horses 30fr. ; guide 6-8fr. ; 
horse or mule with attendant 15 fr., donkey 9 fr. For the usual route 
by Lauterbrunnen, the Wengernalp, Grindelwald, the Scheidegg, Meiringen, 
the Grimsel, the Fnrka, and Andermatt, no guide is necessary; on line days 
the route is much frequented and can hardly be mistaken. On the other 
hand a guide sometimes affords useful information, and will relieve the 
pedestrian of his knapsack. The principal headquarters of the guides are 
Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald, and Bleiringen. 



Jt£n» 




u,^/„„.^'/^_ 



Geo^aph.Anstalt-v 



x^ 




Vaguer tDebei. Leipii^ 



BERN. 40. Route. 133 

The pleasure of a visit to the beautiful Bernese Oberland is somewhat 
marred by the usual drawbacks of favourite public resorts.- Contributions 
are levied upon the traveller under every possible pretence. At every gate 
he passes through is a group of children who expect to be paid for their super- 
fluous services. He Is assailed by vendors of strawberries, flowers, and 
crystals, by exhibitors of chamois and marmots, by urchins standing on 
their heads" or turning somersaults, and by awakeners of echoes. Swiss 
songstresses, neither young nor pretty, next appear on the scene, and the 
nerves of the traveller are often sorely tried by the Alpine horn and the 
Ranz des Vaches, which, though musical at a distance, are objectionable 
when performed close to the ear. These annoyances had at length become 
so serious that the government appointed commissioners to inquire into 
the matter. Their advice is, 'Give to nobody' ; and the remedy therefore 
lies principally with travellers themselves. 

40. Bern. 

Hotels. 'Bernee Hof (PI. a; C, 5), adjoining the Federal Hall, R. & A. 
4-5, D. 5 fr. ; Bellevce (PI. b ; D, 5), adjoining the Mint, R., L., & A. S'/s-iYi', 
D. 4fr.; both these command a view of the Alps. 'ScHvrEizERHoF (PI. c; C,4), 
near the station, R., L., & A. S'/z, D. 41/2 fr.; =Faucon (PI. d; D, 4), Markt- 
gasse, R. & L. S'/z, D. 4 fr. — Hotel de France (PI. g; G, 3, 4), R., L., 
Si A. 3, D. 2V2 fr-; -Hotel du Jura (PI. h; B, 4), adjoining the Bank, R., L., 
& A. 2'/2-3 fr.; Hirsch (PI. i; C, 4), these three near the station. — In the 
town: 'Pfistekn (i/d(eZ des Boulangers, PI. k; E, 4), near the clock-tower; 
'Storch (PI. 1; C, 4), *L6we (PI. m; C, 4), both moderate; Mohr (PI. n; 
F, 4); Schmieden {MarMiaux, PI. p; D, 4); Hotel-Pension Ruof (PI. e; 

C, 4), Waisenhaus-Platz ; "Hotel zu Webekn (H6t. des Tisserands, PI. q; 

D, 41 and Gasthof zu Zimmerleuten (PI. t; D, 4), both in the Marktgasse ; 
these last all moderate. — Unpretending: Schlussel (PI. r; E, 4) ; 'Bar, 
near the station, R. 2'/2, D. 3fr.; Wilder Mann (PI. s; C, 3, 4), Aarberger 
Str., R. 2, B. I'/i, D. 3fr. ; Emmenthaler Hof, Keue Gasse; Kreuz, Zeug- 
hausgasse, moderate. — "Pens. Hekter (PI. o; F, 4), well situated, near 
the Cathedral; *Pens. Jolimont, Aussere Enge (l'/2 M. ; p. 139), with fine 
view (5-6 fr.); Pension & Restadrant Sohloss Bremgarten , prettily 
situated on a peninsula in the Aare, 2^/i 31. to the N. (carriage-road via 
Felsenau); 'Pens. Victoria (5-6 fr.), on the Schanzl (p. 13S), for invalids; 
"•Pens. Hcg, in the Mattenhof, 1/4 M. from the town (for surgical cases). 

Cafes and Restaurants. "Rail. Restaurant, often crowded ; -Caf^ Casino 
near the Federal Hall, terrace with view of the Alps; Cafi Berna; Cafii 
Sierntcarte, on the 'Grosse Schanze' (PI. B, 3); Ca/i du ThMlre; Cafi du 
Pont, on the other side of the KirchenfeldbrUcke ; Schicellenmalteli, on the 
Aare; Anderes , SpitaJgasse 37, Miitzenherg , Kesslergasse, both moderate. 
At the W. pavilion on the Munster-Terrasse (p. 135) refreshments are sold af- 
ter 1 p.m. (Sundays after 4 p.m.); music occasionally in the evening, and 
on Sun. 11-12 a.m. — Outside the town : Cafi Schdnzli (p. 138), beyond the 
railway-bridge (1/2 M.), on the lofty right bank of the Aare (concert or 
summer-theatre daily); 'Cafi on the Enge (p. 139), 1 M. from the Aarberg 
Gate; Scfiloss Bremgarten, 2'/) M. to the X. (see above). — Beer. Krone, 
Gerechtigkeitsgasse; 'Cafi National, Bdren, Frick, Schauplatzgasse; 'Cafi 
Rhyn, Baren-Platz; Cafi du Pont, Cafi Sternwarte (see above). Bernese 
beer: Hahnen; 'Cafi Ca.^sani, Baren-Platz; Stadtgarten, Neuengasse. 

Alpine Boots. Riesen, Spitalgasse;".%/ie!rfeygrec, Waisenhaus-Platz. — 
Cognac, Madeira etc. at Demme's, Aarziehle. 

'Zahnd's Museum of Alpine animals , Untere Alpenegg, Enge-Str. 10 
(PI. B, 2 ; to the left of the railway-bridge, on the way to the Enge). 

Baths. SwimmingBath at the Holz-Platz, below the Berner Hof (cable- 
tram, see p. 137). River Baths below the Unter-Thor Bridge, by the 'Peli- 
kan' (PI. G, 3), and in the Altenberg. Water of the Aare very cold (65-68« F.). 
I'feiffer's Baths in the Lorraine, 8 min. from the Schiinzli (p. 138; water 
77-Sl»F.). — Warm Baths (Turkish, etc.) at Biichlers ;W/'ciri-6«rf, below 
the Jliinster-Terrasse. 



134 Route 40. RERN. Zeitgloekenthurm. 

Cabs. One-horse, for V4 hr. 1-2 pers. 80c., 3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c.; each 
additional '/■• I*'"- '^0 or 60c. Two-horse: same fares as for 3-4 pers. with 
one horse. Box 20 c, small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a.m., double 
fares. Whole day, i.e. over 8 hrs., 1-2 pers. 15fr., 3-4 pers. 20fr. 

Tramway from the Bears'Den through the chief street to the railway 
station, and thence on to the 'Linde' (Bremgarten Cemetery; fares 10-30 c), 
and from the Kaligthurm to Wabern (p. 139). 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 15), near the station. Branch-office in 
the Kramgasse, at the old post-office. 

British Minister, Chas. S. Scoil, C.B., 7 Hirschengraben ; office-hous 
11-1. — American Minister, Bon. John D. Washburn. — English Church 
Service in the hall of the Lerber School, Predigergasse 12 (10.30 a.m. and 
3.30 p.m.). Chaplain Rev. J. Bernard Smith, Erlacher Hof. 

Attkactions. First visit the 'Kleine Schanze' and the Federal Council 
Hall ; then the Kirchenfeldbriicke and the Cathedral (Miinster-Terrasse and 
Erlach Monument); follow the Kreuzgasse to the Rathhaus; across the 
Nydeckbriicke to the Bears' Den; return past the Zeitglockthurm to the 
Corn Market, and cross the Waisenhaus-Platz to the museums ; lastly cross 
the railway-bridge to the Schanzli and then return to the station. 

Bern (1765'), the capital of Canton Bern, with 45,944 inhab. 
(including its extensive suburbs), has been the seat of the Swiss 
government since 1848. Founded by Duke Berthold V. of Zahrin- 
gen in 1191, the town became independent of the Empire in 1218. 
By 1288 its powers had so increased that it warded off two sieges by 
Rudolph of Hapsburg, and in 1339 the Bernese overthrew the 
Burgundian nobles at the battle of Laupen (p. 199). In 1353 Bern 
joined the Confederation, and in 1528 the citizens embraced the 
reformed faith. In 1415 they conquered part of Aargau, and in 
1536 they wrested the Pays de Vaud from the princes of Savoy; but 
in 1798 they were deprived of these territories. 

The city, in a striking situation, is built on a peninsula of sand- 
stone-rock, formed by the Acre, which flows 100' below. Most of 
the broad principal streets run from E. to W. Those in the old 
part of the town are flanked with arcades (Lauben), which form a 
covered way for foot-passengers. One of the chief characteristics 
of Bern consists in its numerous fountains, most of them dating 
from the 16th cent., adorned with statues of every variety (Samson, 
Themis, an Archer, a Bagpiper, an Ogre, etc.). In other respects 
also Bern still retains more mediaeval features than any other large 
town in Switzerland. 

The chief artery of traffic is a series of broad streets , called 
the Spitalgasse, the Marktgasse, the Kramgasse, and the Gerechtig- 
keitsgasse, which extend from the Obere Thor (PI. B, 4) to the Ny- 
deck Bridge (PI. G, H, 4), a distance of nearly a mile. In this 
street are situated the Kafigthurm (PI. 20), now a prison, and the 
Zeitgloekenthurm (PI. 21 ; E, 4), once the E. gate of the town, 
but now its central point, rebuilt in 1770. On the E. side is a cur- 
ious clock , which announces the approach of each hour by the 
crowing of a cock , while 2 min. before the hour a troop of bears 
marches in procession round a sitting figure. Being the heraldic em- 
blem of Bern, the bear frequently recurs. Thus, on the neighbour- 



Cathedral. BERN. 40. Route. 135 

ing Bdrenbrunnen (PL 2), Bruin appears with shield, sword, ban- 
ner, and helmet. Two bears also support a shield in the pediment 
of the Corn Hall (PI. 12), a handsome building, which down to 
1830 always contained a store of corn to bo used in case of famine 
(wine-cellar below, much frequented). The Kornhaus-Platz is em- 
bellished with the grotesque Kindlifresser-Brunnen (^Ogre Foun- 
tain; PI. 3; D, 4); the ogre is about to devour a child, while other 
innocents protrude from his pocket and girdle. 

At the E. end of the opposite Metzgergasse are the modern 
Old Catholic Church fPl. 11), designed by Deperthes of Rheims, 
and the Rathhaus or Town Hall (PI. 16; F, 4), erected in 1406, 
and restored in 1868, approached by a handsome flight of steps, 
and adorned with the arms of the Bernese districts. 

The *Cathedral, or Miinster (PI. E, F, 4, 5), a fine late-Gothic 
structure, 93 yds. long, 37 yds. broad, and 76' high, was begun 
in 1421, completed in 1573, and restored in 1850. Round the whole 
of the roof runs a beautiful of en Balustrade, the design of which is 
different between each pair of buttresses. The W. Portal is remark- 
ably line; the sculptures represent the Last Judgment; in the 
outer arches are Christ, above, with the Virgin and John the Baptist 
on the left and right, and the Twelve Apostles-; in the inner (small- 
er) arches are the Prophets and the Wi-e and Foolish Virgins. 
The unfinished Tower, 134' high, is now to be finished from plans 
of the German architect Beyer; the entrance to it is by a side-door 
in the W. portal. We ascend 223 steps tc the lodge of the tower- 
keeper (50c.), who shows the relative proportions of all the large 
bells in the world, and to a gallery commanding a superb view. 

Intekior (adm. 20c.}. The Choir contains Stained Glass of 1496, one 
window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation , another the Life 
of Christ. The Choir Stalls (1522) are adorned on one side with Apos- 
tles, on the other with Prophets. A monument with the armorial bearings 
of Berthold von Zii/iringen , the founder of Bern (see p. 134), was erected 
by the city in 1600. Another in memory of the magistrate Friedrich von 
Sleiger, bears the names of the 702 Bernese who fell on 5th Marcli, 1798, 
at the Grauholz , 6 M. to the N. of Bern , in an engagement with the 
French. In front of this is a Pietas in marble, by Tscharner (1870). The 
organ rivals that of Freiburg (performance four times weekly in summer 
at 8; tickets, 1 fr., at the hotels or from the verger). 

The Platz in front of the cathedral is adorned with an Equestrian 
Statue of Rudolph von Erlach (PL 6), the victor at Laupen (p. 199), 
in bronze, designed by Volmar of Bern, and erected in 1848, with 
bears at the corners, and inscriptions and trophies on the pedestal. 

The *Catliedral Terrace [MUnster-Terrasse ; PL F, 5), rising 
abruptly 110' above the Aare, formerly the churchyard, is now a 
shady promenade with seats , adorned with a bronze statue of Ber- 
thold von Zdhringen (PL 7; p. 134), designed by Tscharner, with 
Bruin as a helmet-bearer. The view from this terrace, as indeed 
from every open space in Bern, is justly celebrated. In clear weather 
the panorama of the Bernese Alps witnessed here is more extensive 
than from any other spot in the Oberland. 



136 Route 40. BERN. Histor. Museum. 

£ ¥l"iVffl!l^]fi' 'U *Viewa. The most important mount- 

■2" Ji, Mfci 'W«^' I ains are marked in the annexed Panorama. 

•5= livOM ' ' From other points (the Miinz-Terrasse, 

J *yf\''^jM 1 ' Casino-Garden, Bundes-Rathhaus, Kleine 

* ' ' ''^ Schanze, Cafe Schanzli, and the Enge out- 
side the Aarberger Thor) the following 
mountains are also visible : — To the right 

|§ , of the Doldenhorn, the Balmhorn (12,180') 

a-"!^. - , with the ^Z^e/s (11,930'-, 37 M. distant), and 

JS over the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit 

^ S." of the Stockhorn {l\^b' \ 18 M.); also, to the 

1 I extreme left, the peaks of the Spannorler 

g ; ; (10,515'; 53 M.) and the ^fcWoss6«rgr (10,280' 

" Ig «• '\M^ ^^ ^■^■' ^'^^^ ^" *^^ canton of TJri ; the crest 

2" 'L ^^fW« I of the Bduchlen near Escholzmatt (5810' 

ss^... ' " /^^' I '~^ 24 M.), and the /'eMe»-5(ein above the Entle- 

■|~ 5i- < p-^ ! 'Q buch (6700'; 30 M.). 

5- |B f ^1 \ in These mountains present a sublime 

Joc. L '• - '» spectacle at sunset in fine weather, espe 

|S=_ It, , ' A ^ cially when the W. horizon is partially 

" % V , /I -S veiled with thin clouds , and the pheno- 

^. tz ' ", 'M ii menon called the Alpengluhen ('Glow of 

•|^ %". ^S % the Alps') is produced. Long after the shad- 

.||'^ ■ "% .^ ows have fallen upon the valleys, and the 

S-" 1^ ''f^ ^ lingering rays of the setting sun have faded 

"1^ U 5./ from the snowy peaks themselves, the 

__ m" E S mountains begin to glow from their bases 

i„ J y a upwards, as if illumined by a bright in- 

ss iS 1 "^ ternal fire. 

" a ^" M The Historical Museum (PL 14; 

^ p . \ ' a E, 5; Tues. and Sat. 3-5, Sun. IOV2 

1 -12; at other times 1 pers. 1 fr. ; 
"^ for 2 pers. or more 50 c. each) con- 
^ tains archaeological , ethnographical, 
[) and historical collections , including 
,j^^ S antiquities from lake-dwellings and 
^ tombs, Swiss implements of the flint, 
^ bronze, and iron periods, a selection 
3 of ancient weapons from the arsenal of 
H Bern, Burgundian tapestry, the fleld- 
" altar of Charles the Bold, enriched 
% with gilding and precious stones (cap- 
tured at Grandson), etc. 

Adjoining the museum, on the S., 
is the University (PI. 22; 360-80 stu- 
dents), founded in 1834; on the N. 
side is the Town Library (PI. 1 ; open 
daily, 3-5 p.m.), containing numerous 
histories of Switzerland. 

To the S. of the University the 
*Kirchenfeldbrucke (PI. E, 5; splen- 
did view;, a huge iron bridge built in 
1882-83, 751' long, 115' above the 
Aare, crosses the Aare to the Helvetia- 



Kunst-Museum. BERN. 40. Route. 137 

Platz in the Kirchenfeld, where a new quarter of the town is being 
erected by an English company. 

The best view of the bridge is obtained from the Miinzterrasse 
(PI. 13), immediately above it, on the left bank. We may now follow 
the Insel-Strasse, past the new federal Government Offices (now 
under construction) to the Casino-Platz (PL C, 6). To the right, at 
the corner of the Baren-Platz and the Schauplatzgasse,is theMuseum, 
a club (introduction by a member), with a fagade adorned with statues 
of celebrated Bernese by Dorer. 

In the Bundesgasse, on the left, rises the *Federal Cotmcil Hall 
(^Bundes-Rathhaus, PL C, 5), a handsome edifice in the Floren- 
tine style, 400' long and 165' broad, designed by Studer, and com- 
pleted in 1857 (porter on the right of the principal entrance ; en- 
trance free). The sittings of the two legislative assemblies, usually 
held in July and Dec, are open to the public. The debates, which 
are generally very keen, are in German or French. Rulings of the 
president, motions, resolutions, etc., are announced in both lan- 
guages. On the third floor is a collection of antiquities from lake- 
dwellings and another of coins (adm. daily 10-1'2). The roof com- 
mands the most extensive *View in Bern. — In front of the Bundes- 
Rathhaus is a fountain-figure of Berna, in bronze , on a pedestal 
adorned with figures of the four Seasons. 

Between the Council Hall and the Bernerhof is a Cable Tramicaif, 360' 
long (gradient 3 : 10}, opened in 18S5, which descends to the bathing etablish- 
ments in the Aarziehl (p. 133). Trains every 5 min.; fare 10 c. 

To the W. of this point, passing the Bernerhof , a few paces 
bring us to the promenades on the *Kleine Schanze (PI. B, C, 5), 
which affords a superb survey of the Bernese Alps (comp. p. 134; 
Panorama by Imfeld), with the Aarethal and the Kirchenfeldbriicke 
in the foreground and the town to the left. 

The Kunst-Museum in the Waisenhaus-Str. (PL C, 3), a fine 
Renaissance building, contains the municipal Picture Oallery 
(50 c, daily 9-12 and 2-5; Sun. from IO1/2, gratis). 

On the Ground Flock are two rooms to the lett containing sculptures 
and casts (1st : Imkof, Atalanta, Eve, Hagar and Ishmael ; Tsc/iarnei% Pie- 
tas. 2nd: Casts from the antique). — The vestibule of the Upper Floor 
contains statues of Miriam, Ruth, Rebecca, and David, by Imhof; busts 
of Bianca Capello and of an Arab sheikh, after Marcello (p. 200); Burnand, 
Herd leaving the mountain-pasture. 1st Cabinet: Eehihardf, thirty plates 
of Swiss costumes. 2nd Cabinet: Early German and Netherlandish works. 
3rd Cabinet: Portraits of Bernese artists, etc. — Large Saloon. To the 
right: 111. Ribera, St. Jerome; E. Oirardet, 133. Going to school, 132. 
Almsgiving; 164. Paul Robert, Echo; 128. Bonsieiten, Falls of Terni; '138. 
Ritz, Engineers on the mountains ; Alb. de Mewon, *14L Chamois-hunter, 
143. Negress, 142. The dying husband; 146. A'. Girardet, Scene from the 
battle of Moral; '153. Anker, The examination; 152. Pixis, Huss parting 
from his friends ; 154. Anker, The dead friend ; 224. K. Zimmermann, AroUa 
Glacier; '172. Roller, Cow and calf in the mountains; 200. Millner, Moun- 
tain pasture; 157. Al. Calame, Waterfall near Meiiingen; -161. Didaii, 
Valley of Lauterbrunnen ; "165. Vautier, Saying grace; No number, Bur- 
nand. Old age of Louis XIV. ; Hid Ouigon, Grand Canal; ilb. D'Orschtciller, 
Ape concert: 226. Brirhser. Aiuouij the waves; 167. Ihimhert, Cattle cross- 



1 38 Route 40. BERN. Nydeckbrucke . 

ing a river; Ko number, Stabli, Scene in the Canton of Tieino; "160. 
Diday, Chalet in the Bernese Uberland ; 156. Calame, Scene near the Han- 
degg; 162. Diday, Evening landscape; 153. Steffan, Scene near Meiringen; 
197. Harver, Olevano; '241. Castati, The lirsl snow on the Lake of Oeschinen; 
185. Walthard, Skirmish in the Grauholz in 1798; 147. Veillon, Spring 
morning on the Lake of Brien/. ; 199. Tobler, Checkmate. — • 5th Cabinet. 
223. Frisching, On the Lake of Brienz; 182. Sckuler, Strassburg in 1870; 
127. L. Robert, Italian woman ; 164. Privosl, Wood on the Great Scheidegg. 
— 6th Cabinet. A. v. Bonstetten, Landscapes. — Water-colours. 

Opposite is the Natural History Museum (PI. C, 3; in summer, 
Tues. and Sat. 2-5, and Sun. IO1/2-I2, free; on other days, 8-6, 
adm. 1 fr. ; for 2 pers. or more, 50 c. each). 

To the right on the ground-floor is the Collection of Minerals , which 
includes some magnificent crystals (rock-crystal , smoky topaz from the 
Tiefen Glacier on the Furka). Bust of B. Sliider (d. 1887). To the left, 
Fossils. — On the first floor is the Zoological Collection. On the staircase 
is a group of chamois. In the central saloon , with ceiling-frescoes by 
Baldancoli, are large ruminants. In the room on the left, birds and eggs. 
In the room on the right, mammalia. Adjacent a small room devoted 
to the Swiss fauna. — On the 2nd floor, to the left, amphibia, fish, and 
marine animals; to the right, conchylia, crabs, and insects. 

Adjoining the Museum on the E. is the large new School Build- 
ing (PI. C, 3), accommodating the Gymnasium and Commercial 
School. — To the W. of the town, in the Freiburger Stasse, is the 
large new Inselspital, a hospital admirably equipped for the treat- 
ment of 330 patients. — In the Grosse Schanze, above the station 
to the W. (PI. A, B, 3, 4), with promenades and extensive view, 
are the Observatory, the Head Offices of the Jura, Berne, and Lu- 
cerne RaUivay, the Maternity Hospital, and a monument to President 
Stamp fli. 

Crossing the Railway Bridge (p. 17), at the N.W. end of the 
town, we pass the Botanic Garden and reach (1/9 M.) the ^Schanzli 
(PI. D, E, 2 ; Cafe, adm. for non-customers 50 c), with a terrace and 
grounds commanding the finest view near Bern. In the foreground 
lies the picturesque city ; above it rises the wooded Gurten ; to the 
left are the Bernese Alps, and to the right the Stockhorn chain, adjoin- 
ed by the Freiburg Mts. ; and to the extreme W. is the Mole'son. 

The large Military Depot of Canton Bern, in the Beundenfeld 
beyond the Schiinzli , erected in 1874-78 at a cost of 4i/2 million 
francs, comprises an arsenal, offices, stables with riding-schools, 
and a large barrack. The Arsenal contains large stores of weapons, 
and in the 'Antiquitatensaal' are various curiosities (fee). 

On the E. side of Bern the Aare is crossed by the handsome 
Nydeckbrucke (PI. G, H, 5), in three arches, built in 1844. The 
central arch has a span of 158', and is 100' high. On the right 
bank of the Aare, close to the bridge , on the right, is the Bears' 
Den {Bdrengraben^, where Bruin is maintained , according to im- 
memorial usage , at the cost of the municipality. Bread and fruit 
are the only offerings permitted. — From this point the Thuner 
Stalden, a handsome avenue of plane-trees, afl'ording a fine view 
of the town, ascends to the right, whence we return to the (20min.j 



THUN. 41. Route. 139 

town by the Gryphenhiibeli- Weg, the Marien - Strasse , and the 
Kirchenfeldbriicke (p. 136). 

To the N., 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate, on the left bank of the Aare, 
is the Enge , a large peninsula nearly surrounded by the Aare, rising 
high above it, and commanding an admirable view. The finest point is 
the cafe (p. 133), surrounded by beautiful shady grounds. 

The view from the 'Gurten (2825'; Inn), a long hill to the S. of Bern, 
embraces, besides the Bernese Alps (p. 186), the Stockhorn chain, the Frei- 
burg Alps, the Jura for a distance of lOU 31., with parts of the Lake of 
Keuchatel ; and, to the left, the Unterwald and Lucerne Mts. as far as Pi- 
latus. The road from Bern to the (4 31.) Gurten, leads through the Aarzihl 
to the Ca/i Schonegg and (I'/z 31.) Wahevn, from both of which points 
paths also ascend to the top. On the hillside are the Bdchlelen and Vic- 
toria asylums for deserted children. 

Above Belp (p. 141), 5 31. to the S. of Bern, lies Zimmerwald (2815'; 
Hot. -Pens. Beau-Sejour), charmingly situated, and (4 31. farther) Biitschelegg 
(3470'; Inn), with an extensive view. 

41. From Bern to Thun. 

Comp. Map, p. Hi. 
191/2 M. Railway (Centralbafm) in 1 hr. (3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 70 c). 
View to the right as far as Miinsingen; thence to Uttigen on the left. 
Through-travellers to Interlaken go on to the Scherzligen terminus (see 
p. 143), '/2 ^- beyond Thun, where the steamer awaits them. 

Bern, see p. 133. On the Wylerfeld [^. 17) the train turns 
to the right, affording an admirable survey of the Alps to the right. 
3 M. Ostermundingen. — 5 M. Gumlingen (^Hot. Mattenhof). junction 
tor Lucerne (p. 129). About 2'/4 M. to the E. is the finely-situated 
*Pension Bentenherg (2325'). The Giebel (I/4 hr.) commands a fine 
view. — 8 M. Rubigen; 10 M. Miinsingen. On the right rise the Stock- 
horn chain and Niesen (p. 141), the last spurs of the High Alps, 
and to the left the Monch, Jungfrau, and Blumlisalp. 12^/2 M. 
Wichtrach; I41/2 M. Kiesen. From this point a road ascends via 
Liesb'tch in 2'/2 hrs. to the Falkenfluh (3410'), a health-resort with 
an unpretending *]nn and a fine view. Near (I51/.2M.) UtCigen 
we cross the Aare. On the right of the entrance to the station of 
Thun rises a large barrack. 

191/2 M. Thun. — Hotels. *Thuner Hof or Grand Hotel, beautifully 
situated on the Aare, R., L.. & A. from 4V2, B. I'/e, D. 4'/a-8 fr.; 'Bellevce, 
with extensive grounds, R., L., & A. from 4, B. I'/j, lunch S'/a, D. 5, pens. 
11 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Baumgarten, with garden, R. from 2, pens. 6-10 fr. ; 
'Fbeienhof, by the steamboat-quay, with cafe-restaurant and garden on the 
Aare, R. <fe A. 21,2-3, D. 3, B. li/4fr.; 'Falke. with terrace on the Aare, 
R. 2-3, D. 3 fr.; *Kreuz, R. 2, D. 3 fr. ; "Krone, adjoining the Town Hall, 
R.,L.,&A. 21/2 fr. ; Schweizerhof, at the station. — *Pens. Itten, on the 
Amsoldingen road, 61/2 fr. ; Pens. EichbChl, on the lake, near Hilter- 
lingen, 2 31. to the S.E. 

Cafes. Freienhof (see above) ; Cafi du Casino, on the way to the Belle- 
vue. Beer at the Freienhof, the Cafi du Pont, on the way to the railway- 
station, and the Schliissel, by the Lauithor. 

Kurgarten. Concerts daily 3.30-5 and 8-10 p.m. Adm. 50 c.; weekly 
ticket 2, monthly 5 fr. 

Baths in the very rapid and cold Aare, to the N. of the town, 50 c. 
Warm Baths at the Biilliz Baths. — Telegraph Office opposite the Post- 
office. -— BIonet Changer, ^. Knerhteiifiofer. — Boat on the lake, according 
to tariff, 3fr. per hour, 2 hrs. 5 fr.. 3 hrs. 7, ','2 dav 8, whole day 10 fr.; 



140 Route 41. THUN. Bernese 

but better terms may sometimes be made. — Caeved Wood at /. Kojfer's, 
in the garden of the Bellevue. 

Cab to or from the station 1 fr. Carriage with one horse the first hr. 
4, with two horses 7 fr., each addit. hr. 3 and 5 fr. To Gunten 5 or 8, to 
Merligen 7 or 12, to Interlaken 14 or 25, to Wimmis 6 or 10, to the Blaue 
See 20 or 25, to Kandersfeg 20 or 38, to Weissenburg 13 or 24, to Zwei- 
simmen 28 or 30. Saanen 35 or 60, Gsteig 40 or 70, Chateau dOex 40 or 
70, Aigle 80 or 150, Gurnigel 30 or 50 fr. 

English Chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue. 

Thun (1844'; pop. 5300), charmingly situated on the Aare^ 
3/4 M. below its efflux from the lake, forms a fitting portal to the 
beauties of the Oberland. The principal street is curious. In 
front of the houses projects a row of warehouses and cellars, 
10-12' high, on the flat roofs of which is the pavement for foot- 
passengers, flanked with the shops. Thun is the centre of the 
trade of the Oberland. 

Near the bridge (to the left) a covered way of 218 steps (and 
to the right of the bridge, at the Pens. Baumgarten, a road without 
steps) ascends to the Churchy erected in 1738. *View from the 
churchyard, embracing the old-fashioned town, the two arms of 
the rapid river, the fertile and partly wooded plain, and the Niesen, 
beyond which the snow-fields of the Doldenhorn and the Bliimlisalp 
are visible. — Near the churchyard rises the large square tower of the 
old Castle of Zdhringen-Kyburg with a turret at each corner, erected 
in 1182, and within the walls of the castle is the Amts-Schloss, or 
residence of the Bernese bailiffs, erected in 1429. From the 
'Schloss-Promenade', beside the tower, we obtain a beautiful view, 
to the S.W., of the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhorn 
chain. A road, ending in a covered flight of steps, descends hence 
to the market-place. 

Thun is the seat of the Federal Military School for officers and 
sergeants, chiefly of artillery and engineers, and contains the federal 
manufactories of ammunition. Military manoeuvres take place here 
annually on the 'Almend', or common. The Keramic Museum con- 
tains a fine collection of terracottas, majolica, etc. 

Walks. Above the town on the right bank of the Aare, through the 
Bellevue grounds to the (74 hr.) -Pavilion St. Jacques (Jakobshiibeli, 2100*), 
commanding the lake, the Alps, Thun, and the valley of the Aare. Higher 
np (8 and 10 min.) are two other 'pavilions'' (Obere and Untere Warl)., the 
higher of which atl'ords a charming survey of Thun and the valley of the 
Aare. — Another walk is by the road on the right (N.) bank of the Aare 
and of the lake across the Hdchimatt, with its pretty grounds and Alpine 
view (Kigcr, illonch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, etc.), to the (20 
min.) Chartreuse (the property of the Parpart family). Here (or by a shorter 
path 8 min. farther back) we turn to the left , passing the liachiholzli, 
cross (10 min.) the Hunibach, and follow a path through the picturesque 
Kohleren-Sc/iluclit, where the brook forms several small falls. This path 
ascends to the Griisisbergwald (see p. 141) and the Goldiwyl road O/2 hr.). 

On the Bern road, 3 M. to the N.W. of Thun, lies Heiniberg., with 
extensive potteries. — To the ^'. of Thun is the (I'/-.! M. ; diligence 
6 times daily in 20 min.; carr. with one horse 3 fr.) considerable village 
of Ste/fsbjtrff (brewery), whence we may ascend in '/2 hr. to the small 
Schnittioeuer- Bad (trout), with its mineral spring. — Charming walk on the 
Goldiwyl Koud, which diverges to the right from the Steffisbnrg road, at 



Oberland. THE NIESEN. 42. Route. 141 

the '■niibeU\ a few hundred yards to the X. of the town. fA shorter path 
ascends to the right at the Pens. Baumgarten, with numerous guide-posts.) 
The beautifully wooded GHisisberg. which the road ascends, is intersect- 
ed with good paths, furnished with finger-posts. The finest points of 
view are the Rappenfluh or Rabenflult (2844'; 1 hr.) and the Brandlisberg 
(2397'; 20 min. from the Eabentluh or V:; hr. from the Hiibeli direct), 
which overlook the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhorn chain. 
After about 2i;'i M. the road divides. The left branch leads to tli/2 M.) 
Goldiwiil (3155'; Zysset's Inn), which may be reached also by a shorter 
road (3 M.) from Thun. diverging to the left before the Bachimatt. The 
right branch leads to (2' '4 M.) Heiligenschwendi (3324'), 3/4 M. to the S. of 
which is the ~ Haltenegg (3287"), affording a magnificent view. A picturesque 
way back leads through the Kohleren (see p. 140; descend to the left at 
the guide-post near the bifurcation, mentioned above). 

■The handsomest of the villas on the lake is Schadau, the property 
of M. de Rougemont, a modern Gothic building, charmingly situated 
between the left bank of the Aare and the lake, and embellished 
with sculptures in sandstone. On Sundays the garden is open to the 
public. — Farther distant, on the right bank, is the chateau of Hiinegg, in 
the French Renaissance style. Beautiful view from the terrace. Apply to 
the gardener, who lives on the road, V4 M. nearer Thun. No fee. 

Excursions. Thierachern (1867'; Lowe), with fine view, 3 M. to the 
W. ; 3 M. farther W., Bad Blumenstein and the Fallback; thence through 
wood in l'/2 hr. to the Guniigel-Bad (see below). Baths of Schwefelherg 
&j-i hrs. to the W. of Blumenstein, beyond the Gantvist Pass), see p. 187. — 
Burgistein (2690'), a village and castle with fine view, 8 M. to the N.W. of 
Thun. Amsoldinge.il (Roman tombstones), 3V2 M. to the S.W., and the 
ancient tower of StrdUligeii (p. 186), 3V2 M. to the S. of Thun, a splendid 
point of view. The undulating district between the Stockenthal and Thun 
abounds in beautiful walks and mountain-views. — The Stockhorn (from 
Blumenstein or Amsoldingen 4-4V2 hrs.), see p. 186. 

To THE Guenigel-Bad from Thun a walk of 31/2 hrS. (guide desirable), or 
drive of 4 hrs. (carr. with one horse 30, with two horses 60 fr.) or from 
Bern direct by diligence (twice daily in 4V2 hrs.; fare 7, coupe 81/2 fr. ; 
distance 20i 2 M.). The road from Bern leads bj' Wabern and Kehrsalz, 
and (leaving Belp on the left) follows the W. side of the Giirbethal, soon 
affording a fine view of the Bernese Alps. At (12V2 M.) Kirchenthurnen 
(1995') it ascends to the right to the large village of Riggisberg (2500'; 
Sonne), beyond which we follow a road to the left to the DUrrbach Inn 
and ascend steeply through the Laaswald to the (8 M.) * G-urnigelhad 
(3783'), a favourite health-resort, with a spring impregnated with lime and 
sulphur, situated on a broad plateau (500 beds, E. 21/2-6, pens. 6-8 fr.). Ex- 
tensive wood-walks in the environs: to (V2 hr.) Seftigschwend (Inn); past 
the Laashofe to the (1 hr.) Ldngiiei-Bad; to the (1 hr.) Obere Gurnigel 
(5070'), an admirable point of view; to the (l''2hr.) SeelibiihUolbO'). — Over 
the Gantrist to Bad Weissenbiirg (5-6 hrs.), see p. 186. —From Waffentci/l, 
5 M. to the W. of Thun and 3 31. to the S.W. of stat. Uttiyeii (p. 139)," a 
pleasant path, which cannot be mistaken, ascends to Bad Gurnigel in 2V2hrs. 

To Saanen through the valley of the Simme, see R. 56. 

42. The Niesen. 

Comp. Map, p. 144. 

Three paths lead to the top : (1st) on the N. side from Wimmis a 
bridle-path (the best route) in 4'/2 hrs. ; (2nd) on the E., from the Eeustrich- 
Bad a bridle-path in the same time ; (3rd) on the S. side, from Frtiligen 
a footpath in 5 hrs. (comp. p. 141). Travellers ascending in the morning 
should start from "Wimmis ; in the afternoon the path from the Heustrich- 
Bad is better shaded. 

Steamboat from Thun to Spiez, see p. 141 ; thence by Spiezwyler to 
Wimmis 31/4 M. (a drive of 40 min.; post-vehicle with three seats daily; 
one-horse carr. 4 fr. ; return- carriages sometimes to be had ; one-horse 



142 Route 42. THE NIESEN. Bernese 

carr. from Thiin 6, two-horse 10 fr.)- — To the Heiistrioh-Bad and Fiii- 
tigen, see R. 53. 

HoKSK to the top of the Niesen and back, from Wimmis, 15 fr. (starting 
before 11 a.m.); if the start is later, 20 fr. — Guide (unnecessary) 6-8 fr. 
— Chair-porters 10-12 fr. 

From Spicz to (I'/i M.~) Spiezwyler, see p. 176. We then cross 
the Kander (view of the Bliimlisalp from the bridge) to the right 
to (2 M.) — 

Wimmis (2080'; pop. 1349 ; *Lowe\ a pretty village in a very fer- 
tile district, at the E. base of the Burgfluh (5072'), overlooked by a 
castle of the once powerful Barons of Weissenburg, which is now 
occupied by a school and the local authorities. The church is said 
to have been founded by King Rudolph II. of Burgundy in 933, but 
is mentioned in ancient documents as early as 533. 

Ascent of the Niesen from Wimmis. The path ascends on the S. side 
of the Burgfluh. After 35 min. it crosses the Staldenbach ; 3 min. later, by 
a gate, it turns to the left (finger-post) and ascends in zigzags through 
pastures and wood, passing the chalet on the Bergli. By the (2 hrs.) 
chalets of Unterstalden (4940') the path crosses to the right bank of the 
Staldenbach, and winds up the slopes of the Niesen, past the chalets of 
Oberstalden (5883'). The prospect first reveals itself beyond the (!'/« hr.) 
Slaldenegg (6345'), a sharp ridge connecting the Betlfltih (7924') or From- 
berghorn with the Niesen, where the vast snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp and 
Doldenhorn become visible. Thence to the top 1 hr. more. 

From the Heustrich-Bad (p. 176) , the bridle-path ascends the grassy 
slopes behind the baths in windings (whenever it divides , the steeper 
brancli must be selected), as far as an ancient lime-tree (V2 hr.); then 
through wood (1 hr.) and over pastures past the chalets of Schlechten- 
waldegg and the Hegern-Alp., in numerous windings, to the (2V'2-3 hrs.) 
Niesen Inn. This route affords numerous and diversified views, but the 
upper part of it is in bad condition for riding. (Drinking water scarce ; 
milk at the two upper chalets.) 

From Fuutigen (p. 176). The path (5 hrs.; not fit for riding; guide 
useful) diverges to the left near the N. end of the village to Winklen 
0/2 hr.) , crosses the Gnngbach, ascends in windings through wood, and 
crosses the Heitibach to the (IV4 hr.) Wenigsegg (4474'). Thence it con- 
tinues on the level to the (I'/a hr.) Sentigrabe.n (4440'), and then ascends 
to the (20 min.) Egglialp, and past the Untere and Obere NiesenAlp to the 
(IV4 hr.) Slaldenegg, where it joins the path from Wimmis. This route in 
the reverse direction affords a beautiful view of the Kanderthal and the 
Alps. — 'Inn, 5 min. from the summit, R., L., & A. 4, B. 2 fr. 

The *Niesen (7763'), the conspicuous N. outpost of a branch 
of the Wildstrubel , and like Pilatus regarded as an infallible baro- 
meter (see p. 94), rises in the form of a gently sloping pyramid. 
The rocks at the base are clay-slate, those of the upper part sand- 
stone-conglomerate. On the top there is room for about 50 persons 
only. The Alps are seen to greater advantage here than from the 
Rigi. The view vies with that from the Faulhorn ; there the Wetter- 
horner form the foreground ; here we are close to the beautiful 
snowy Bliimlisalp at the head of the Kienthal. ' 

View (comp. the panorama, p. 144). The most conspicuous snow- 
mountains are : to the K. the distant Titlis ; nearer, the Wetterhorner and 
Schreckhiirner, the Eiger, Miinch, Jungfrau, Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mit- 
taghorn, Grosshorn, Breithorn, and Tschingelhorn ; to the S. the Bliimlis- 
alp with its three peaks (Morgenhorn, Weisse Frau, Bliimlisalphorn), the 
Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, and Altels ; to the W., the Wildhorn, appearing 



Oherland. LAKE OF THUN. 43. Route. 143 

between two black peaks ; to the left of these the pinnacles of the Mont 
Blanc group ; then the two peaks of the Dent du Midi , the last snow- 
group towards the W. The entire Lake of Thun is visible, and part of 
that of Brienz. The thickly peopled valleys of the Sirame, Engstligenbach, 
and Kander, and the Kienthal may be traced for a long distance. Towards 
the N. the course of the Aare, and the hill-country of Bern , as far as 
the Jura, complete the prospect. Best light towards sunset or in the 
morning before 10 o'clock. 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. 
St. Beatenberg. 

Comp. Map, p. 144. 

Steamboat 4-5 times daily in l'/4 hr. from Thun (Scherzligen ; comp. 
p. 139) io Darligen ; stations Oberhofen, Gunten, Spiez, Merlif/en, St. Beaten- 
berg , Leissigen (the last two not always touched at). — Railway from 
Darligen to Interlaken in connection with the steamboats in 10 min., fare 
80 or 40 c. (1st class from Thun to Interlaken 2 fr. 95 c.); from Interlaken 
to Bonigen (p. 170) in 12 min., fare 80 or 40c. — Road on the S. Bank to 
Interlaken (18 M.), a pleasant drive; on the iV^. Bank a new road (15'/4 M.; 
one-horse carr. in 3 hrs., 14 , two-horae 25 fr.), which between Merligen 
and Neuhaus will repay walkers (comp. p. 145). 

The *Lake of Thun (1837'; greatest depth, 709') is 11 M. 
long, and nearly 2 M. broad. The banks are at first studded -with 
villas and gardens, but, farther on, the N. bank becomes precipitous. 

The Steamboat starts from the quay near the Freienhof Hotel 
(p. 139), ascends the Aare, stops at the Bellevue, and then at 
Scherzligen, the railway-terminus (see p. 139). To the left, among 
the trees, is the Chartreuse (p. 140); to the right, where the Aare 
emerges from the lake, Schloss Schadau (p. 141). The Stockhorn 
(7195'), with its conical summit, and the pyramidal Niesen (7763') 
rise on the right and left of the entrance to the valleys of the Kander 
and Simme (p. 186). To the left of the Niesen are the glittering 
snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp ; on the right, at the head of the Kan- 
derthal, the Friindenhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, Altels, and 
Rinderhorn gradually become visible (from left to right). In the 
direction of Interlaken appear successively (from right to left) the 
Mittaghorn, Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger in the foreground, and farther 
off the Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. 

The steamer skirts the N.E. bank, which is clothed below -with 
villas and gardens and higher up with woods, and passes the pretty 
village of Hilterfingen and the chateau of Hunegg (p. 141). It 
touches at Oberhofen (Pensions *Moy,*Oberhofen; Restaurant Zini- 
mermann), which has a picturesque chateau of Countess Poiirtales, 
and at Gtrnten ( Weisses Kreuz ; *Pens. du Lac, 5 fr. ; Hirsch ; *Pens. 
Graber, all on the lake; Pens. Sehonherg , on the hill, 10 min. 
from the lake, 5 fr.). In the vicinity (l'/2 M. from the lake) the 
water of a stream has worn a curious gorge for itself (waterfall). 

A road ascends from Gunten to (3/4 br.) Sigriswyl (2620' ; 'Pens. Bar, 
unpretending), a prettily situated village. The Blunie (4577'; fine view) is as- 
cended hence in 2 hrs. via Schwanden ; the Sign'sici/l- Gral { Unter-Bergli, 5508' ; 
Ober-Bergli, 6056') by the Alpiglen Alp in 21/2-3 hrs.; the SigriswyUr Roth- 



144 Route 43. ST. REATENBERG. Bernese 

horn (6737'), the highest point of the Sigriswyl-Grat, in 4 hrs. (with guide). 
— On the steep slope of the Sigriswyl-Grat towards the Justisthal (p. 139) 
is the Schafloch (6S40'), a grand ice-cavern, reached from the Obere Bergli 
by a giddy path in 3/, hr. (guide and torches necessary). 

The steamer now crosses the lake at the broadest part, towards 
the S., to Spiez (*Spiezer Hof^ with garden and lake-baths, R., 
L., & A. 5-6 fr. ; *Pens. Sehonegg , 3/^ M. from the lake, R. 2, 
B. 1V4) pens. 6 fr.), a small village prettily situated on the S. 
bank. The picturesque old chateau , which formerly belonged to 
the Erlach family, is now the property of a Berlin gentleman, who 
has restored it and surrounded it with pretty grouuds (visitors 
admitted); the interesting armoury is open on Wed. (adm. 1 fr., for 
the benefit of the poor). From this point two black peaks are visible 
for a short time towards the E., above the S. bank of the Lake 
of Brienz ; that to the right is the Faulhorn, the broader to the left 
the Schwarzhorn. 

To AescM. see p. 176; ascent of the ^iesen, p. 141. Diligence to Fru- 
tigeii, see p. 171; to Zioeisimmen, see p. 187. 

The next station is Faulensee, above which (1 M. ; 3 M. from. 
Spiez), is the *Faulensee- Bad (R., L.,&A. 4, D. 31/2, pens. 71/2^1.), 
with a mineral spring , pleasant grounds and beautiful view. On 
the N. bank we next observe the SLhrmpt Sigriswyl-Grat, with the 
bold Ralligstbcke (6066') and the Sigriswyler Rothhorn (6737'). 
On the lake is Schloss Ralligen. Beyond stat. Merligen (*H6t. 
Beatus, with garden on the lake, R. & A. 2-21/2) D. 31/2, pens. 
5-6 fr.; Lowe), at the mouth of the Justisthal, the steamer pro- 
ceeds to the (1/4 hr .) station of the mountain-railway to St. Beatenherg. 



Cable Railway to St. BEATENBERG,in 12 min. (fare II/2, return 
21/2 ft-)- The line, opened in June 1889, is 1 M. long and has an 
average gradient of 331/3:100. The station at the top is 3 [min. 
from the Kurhaus. 

St. Beatenherg. — Hotels. *Kdrhaus, at the W. end of the village, 
near a wood, with 130 beds and 2 'dependances', R. 3-5, D. 41/2, S. 3, 
pens. 8-12 fr. The following are named in their order from W. to E. : 
•Pension Beatbice & Pens. Waldkand, 4V2-6, in July and Aug. 5-7 fr. ; 
'Hot. -Pens. Schonegg, in the middle of the village, 4-6V2, in July and 
Aug. 4V4-7'/2 fr.; Fedz, village inn; *H6t.-Pens. Victoria; Pens, zdr 
POST; "Hot. -Pens. Bellevue, with charming view, 7-8 fr. ; on the other 
side of the Sundgraben: *H6t.-Pens. Alpenrose, 6-8 fr.; Pens. Jungfrau; 
*H6t.-Pens. des Alpes, 3 M. from the Kurhaus, 5-7 fr. — English Church. 

The village of Si. Beatenherg (3766'), a favourite health-resort, 
lies in a sheltered situation on both sides of the Sundgraben, ■which 
opens towards the Lake of Thun. Admirable view of the Alps, from 
the Schreckhorn to the Niesen, including the Eiger, Monch, Jung- 
frau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, and Wildstrubel. Good wood carv- 
ings at moderate prices. 

A much finer point of view is the "Amnisbiihel (4383'; */«» at the 
top), 25 min. to the E. of the Hotel des Alpes (not quite 3 hrs. from In- 
terlaken). Walkers from Interlaken diverge from the road to the right by 
a finger-post, 2/4 M. below Beatenherg, and reach the top thence in '/z It. 







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Oherland. LAKE OF TIITJN. 43. Boute. 145 

Pleasant walk from the Kurhaus to the Waldbrand (25 min.) ; beauliful 
pine-wood and charming; views. 

Ascent of the "Gemmenalphorn [Giiggisgrat, 6772'), from the Amnisbiihel 
in 2'/2 hrs. ; guide 3 fr. (unnecessary for the experienced). To the foot of 
the Horn a gentle ascent over pastures ; the last '/z hr. steeper. Superb 
view, ranging from Pilatus to the Stockhorn chain and the Diablerets ; 
at our feet lies the Justisthal (p. 145) ; beyond it are the Aare, Bern, and 
the Jura Mts. The Lake of Thun is not visible. 

The Niederhorn (6447') and Btivgfeldstand (6782'), each 2V2-3 hrs. from 
Beatenberg, are also fine points of view. 



The A^ase, a rocky headland, here projects into the lake. High 
tip on the steep bank runs the new road, hewn in the rock at many 
places (see helow). On the margin of the lake lies the chateau of 
Lerow; and farther on are the Beatenbach^ the ravine of the Sund- 
graben (see hclow), and the former station of Xeuhaus (see below"). 

On the S. bank lies Leissigen (Steinbock), at the base of the 
Morgenberghorn (p. 151), pleasantly situated among fruit-trees. 
The steamboat stops at Darligen f*Pens. Seiler), the terminus of 
the 'Bodeli Railway,' which conveys us to Interlaken in 10 min. 
To the left , at the influx of the Aare , is the ruin of Weissenau 
(p. 149). To the right, farther on, we have a fine view of the Monch, 
Eiger, and Jungfrau. The station for (2* '2 M.) Interlaken is at the 
village of Aarmiihle. 1/4 M. from the beginning of the Hoheweg. 



The new Road on the N. Bank of the Lake of Thun leads 
from Thun hy Hilterfingen and Oberhofen to (6M.) Gunten(jp. 143); 
then across the Stampbach (waterfall) and past the old chateau of 
Ralligen to (274 M.) Merligen (p. 144) , ^U M. beyond which is 
the station of the cable-railway to St. Beatenberg (p. 144). The 
road, remarkable for the boldness of its construction, ascends round 
the Nase (see above), passing through two rock-tunnels, skirts the 
precipitous slopes high above the lake, crosses the Kruibach-Tobel, 
and leads through wood (passing the chateau of Lero'W, below, on the 
right) to the (2 M.) bridge over the Beatenbach (^Italian Restaur.). 

A path leads hence in '/t hr. to the Beatenhohle (2255'), from which 
the Beatenbach dashes forth with a noise like thunder in spring and af- 
ter heavy rain. St. Eeatus, the first apostle of Christianity in this region, 
is said to have dwelt in this cavern. 

Three more tunnels ; then a gradual descent. Beautiful view 
of the lake, with the Eiger to the right. Crossing the Sundgraben, 
we observe the houses of Sundlauenen below iis, on the right. Then 
past the (I'/.T M.) KubUbad or St. Beatusbad (Engl. Pension) and 
the Neuhaus (on the right), to Vnterseen and (3 M.) Interlaken. 

44. Interlaken and Environs. 

Ci'inp. Map, p. ItjO. 

Hotels and Pensions (omnibus 1 fr.). On the Hoheweg. from W. to E. : 
■>H6t. MtTROPOLE (PI. 1), R., L., <fe A. 51/^6' 2, D. 5 fr.; 'Victoria (PI. 2), 
with lift, K., L., & A. from 5'/2, B. IV2, D. 5, pens. 8-12 fr.; beyond it the 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 10 



146 Route 44. INTERLAKEN. Bernese 

small Pension Voltz (PI. 13), and *H6t. Horn (PI. 30), unpretending; 
*JUNGFRAC (PI. 3), R., !>., & A. from i'/z, K- 4'/2-5 fr. ; '■'SchweizekhoI'' 
(PI. 4)-, '^'Belvedere (PI. 5), R. , L., & A. from 4, D. 4 fr. ; "Hot. de.s 
Alpes (PI. 6), R., L., & A. 474, lunch 3, D. 41/2 fr. ; "Hotel Beaueivage 
(PI. 9), R., L., & A. from 6, D. 4V-2-5 fr.; *Hot. dd Nord (PI. 7), R., L., & A. 
4V4, B. !'/■', U- 4. pens. 7-8 fr. ; *H6t. Inteelaken (PI. 8), R.,L., & A. 3V2-4, 
B. 3V2, pens. 7-3 fr.; Hot. dd Lac (PI. 10), R., L., & A. 4, D. 3 fr. 

To the W. of the Hoheweg, in the direction of the railway-.station : 
Hot. Oberland (PI. 12), R., L., & A. 3, D. 3, pen,?. 6-7 fr. ; opposite to it, 
Cheval Blanc (PI. 26), moderate; Croix Blanche (PI. 11), R. IV2-2, D. 3, 
B. IV4 fr.; "Adler (PI. 14); "Hot. Bekger (PI. 28), R., L., & A. 21/2-3, D, 21/2, 
pens. 5-7 fr.; "Hot.-Pens. Krebs (PI. 27), moderate; "Hot. dela Gare (PI. 29), 
the last three near the station; Schwan, R. 1-2 fr. — Kear the lower bridge 
over the Aare : "Bellevue (PI. 15), pens. 5V2-6V2 fr. — On the small island 
of SpielmaUen: "Hot. du Pont (PI. 16), with garden, R., L., & A. 4, D. 31/2, 
pens. 6-8 fr.; "Krone. — At Uiiterseen: "Hot. Unterseen (PI. 17), pens. 
6 fr. ; "Beau-Site (PI. 18), pens. 6-8 fr.; Pens. Eiger, on the Neuhaus 
road, well spoken of; "Pension St. Beatus (Mrs. Simpkin), well situated 
near the Lake of Than. 

To the S. of the Hoheweg, on the road to the Kleinc Rugen: Deut- 
scuer Hof (PI. 20), 2nd class, R., L., & A. 3V2-4, B. IV4, D. 31/2, pens, from 
6V2 fr.; 'Hot. National & Pension Wyder (PI. 19), R., L. & A. 3'/2, 
D. 31/2 fr.; Hot. Reber (PI. 21), pens. 6 fr. ; "Pens. Ober, or 'Schlossli' 
(PI. 23), pens. 5-8 fr. ; "Pens. Villa Bischofberger; Pens. Schonthal, 
5 fr. — "Hot. Jungfradblick (P). 22) , on the Kleine Rngen (p. 147) , a 
flrst-class house, commanding a splendid view, with pleasant grounds; R., 
L., & A. from 6, B. IV2, D. 5, omnibus IV2 fr. ; pens, in July and August 
12-16, at other times 10-12 fr. — Hot.-Pens. Mattenhof, prettily situated 
close to the Kleine Rugen, pens. 6V2 fr. ; Pens. Zwahlen, moderate. 

In the Environs of Interlaken good and inexpensive quarters may be 
obtained. At Wildersicyl (p. 151), IV2 M. to the S.: "Hot. ScuonbOul, in a 
fine lofty situation, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Bar, pens. 4V2-5 fr. — At GsteigicyUr {-p. 
150): Pens. Schonfels. — On the Brienz road, on this side of (he church- 
hill of Goldswyl, (5/4 M.) Pens. Felsenegg , 5'/2 fr. — At Bonigen (p. 170) 
on the S. bank of the Lake of Brienz, IV2 M. to the E. of Interlaken : "Pens. 
Bellerive, "Pens. Bonigen, and "Chalet du Lac, moderate. — At Beaten- 
berg, see p. 144. 

Casino on the Hoheweg, with cafe', reading, concert, and billiard rooms, 
etc. : music daily 7.30 to 8.30 a.m., and 3.30 to 5 and 8 to 10 p.m. ; whey-cure 
7-8 a.m. ; admission for one day 50 c, for a week 2^/2 fr., per month 10 fr. ; 
for extra entertaiments 1 fr., or for subscribers 50 c. per day. At the 
back of the Casino is a whey-cure establishment. 

Restaurants. Baien'sche Bierbrauerei, with garden, next to Hot. Beauri- 
vage ; Cafi Oberland; Hot. du Pont, on the Aare, with 'Biergarten' and a fine 
view ; Berger and Krebs, by the railway-station. — Confectioners : Weber, 
Bahnhof-Str. ; Berger^ at the entrance to the Kurgarten. 

Baths in the Hot. Metropole, Beaurivage, etc. — Moneychangers: 
Volkshank, Ebersold, both Bahnhof-Str. 

Carriages, Horses, Guides, see pp. 150, 151, 157, etc. — Donkeys, I'/b fr- 
per hour. — Post and Telegraph Office adjoining the Oberlander Hof. 

English Church Service in the old Convent Church. Presbvterian Ser- 
vice (Scottish Free Church) in the Sacristy of the Schloss at 11 and 4. 

The low land between the lakes of Thun and Brienz, which are 
2 M. apart, is called the 'Budelf. These lakes probably once formed 
a single sheet of water , but were gradually separated by the de- 
posits of the Lutschine, flowing into the Lake of Brienz, and the 
Lombach, which falls into the Lake of Thun. These accumula- 
tions, first descending from the S., out of the valley of Lauterbrun- 
nen, and then from the N. out of the Habkeren valley, account for 
the curve which the Aare has been compelled to describe. On 



Oberland. INTERLAKEN. 44. Route. 147 

this piece of land, 'between the lakes', lies Interlaken (1863'), con- 
sisting of the villages of Aarmuhle, Matten and Unterseen, and ex- 
tending nearly as far as the Lake of Brienz (total pop. 5361). 

The principal resort of visitors is the *H61ieweg , an avenue of 
fine walnuts , extending from the village of Aarmiihle to the upper 
bridge over the Aare , and flanked with large hotels and tempting 
shops. The central part of the avenue, which is open towards the 
S., commands a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen-Thal and the 
Jungfrau (finest by evening light). On the N. side is the Casino, 
a huilding in the Swiss style , with garden , reading-room, etc. 
(entrance between the Schweizerhof and Belvedere; music, etc., 
see p. 146). On the S. side, farther on, rises the old monastery 
and nunnery of Interlaken, founded in 1130, and suppressed 
in 1528, surrounded hy beautiful walnut-trees. The E. wing of 
the monastery has been used as a hospital since 1836 ; the rest 
of the building, with the Schloss added in 1750, is occupied by 
government-offices. The nunnery has been converted into a prison. 
The choir of the monastery -church is now an English Chapel. 
A small chapel is used by a French Protestant and a Scottish Pres- 
hyterian congregation. The nave of the church is a Roman Catholic 
place of worship. To the left, at the upper end of the Hoheweg, the 
road to Brienz crosses the Aare by a handsome new bridge, imme- 
diately above which are the railway-bridge and the Zollhaus station 
of the Bodeli Railway (p. 145). 

Towards the W. the Hoheweg is continued by the busy street 
which leads through Aarmuhle, and past the Post Office (see p. 146), 
to the railway-station. To the right are three bridges (fine view 
from that in the centre) crossing the island of Spielmatten to the 
small town of TJnterseen (1995 inhab.), which consists chiefly of 
wooden houses darkened with age, with a large square and a modern 
church. Large manufactory of parqueterie. 

Interlaken is a favourite summer resort, and is noted for its 
mild and equable temperature. The purity of the air, the whey- 
cure, and the beauty of the situation attract many visitors, while 
others make it their headquarters for excursions to the Oberland. 

Walks. The *Kleine Rugen is a beautiful wooded hill to the 
S. of Interlaken, on the Wilderswyl road. The principal path, pro- 
vided with benches , ascends by the Hotel Jungfraublick in a 
straight direction, leading round the hill to the left, and affording 
varied views of the Bodeli and the valley of Lauterbrunnen , to 
the 'Humboldtsruhe' (view of the Jungfrau and Lake of Brienz). 
In 1/2 ^^'■•■'^e reach the Trinkhalle (Cafe'-Restaurant), commanding the 
Jungfrau, Monch, and Schwalmern. [A little before the Trinkhalle 
a path to the right ascends to the Tanzboden (a level spot in the 
wood) and the (20 min.) Rugenhbhe (2424^, a pavilion with a 
view of the Jungfrau and the lakes of Thun and Brienz.] Beyond 
the Trinkhalle the main path leads to the left, round the hill, 

10* 



148 Route i-i. INTERLAKEN. Bernese 

I Y'*"'^ "'**- j^?^t;;3 passing tin; ^Scheffd raviliim' 

Is- ^ ^i^k (with aviewcrt'theLake ot'Tlmii), 

T ^ ''N^^ral t^iP' Kasthoferstein (see below), 

■-i, -afl^ and the reservoir (fed from the 

2^ "^^ffi Saxeteiithal, p. 151), and back to 

^ " ^^^ the Hotel Jungl'raublickC/.^hr/). 

r* '^ ^3^ Other paths, with benches in 

I V "^^i shady nooks and points of view, 

i ll W " "^l ramifyfrom the main walk in every 

||..l -f^, ^. 3" direction. About the beginning 

•|~ '~*^'f^(^3 °* ^'^^ century the hill was planted 

* '^^^ffl ^y *^^® chief forester Kasthoi'er 

"i*^^S with specimens of the principal 

i^ - I ' -H^^^m '~ trees of Switzerland. The stone 

|S 'r ~iH^^ S above mentioned bears an iii- 

^ «v^m = ,■§ scription to his memory. — Justbe- 

j y J ^\ "B. yond the Trinkhalle a path diver- 

.t| i ' ^-^ -S ges to the left, and by a (1 min.) 

^S° ^"^i ^ bench descends to the riglit to the 

|„ S ' ■f^, WagnerenscJilucht (see below). 

1= 1 'S Another leads straight past the 

" C-| ^ £■ bench, skirting the wood and keep- 

1^ . ing to the left, to the (10 min.) 

1^.^ s Cafe Unspunnen (t^. Ud). 

1^ ^^^^!s % *Heimwehfluh (2218')- From 

|s , \ ^ 3 ^ the station, from Aarmiihle, and 

" -iJM^^' ^ *'"°™ Matten, roads lead to the 

1 ) "^^^^ ►^ ( '/•' ^^0 entrance to the Wagneren- 

bj 1 ~ / -=^41 ^ schlucht, to the W. of the Kleine 

|s ''^''I *"S^^- 5 Kugen. We ascend the ravine 

'^^ "*^^^^^®^^^ S f^'" about 300 paces, and, at a 

/ J^^l 2 block of rock with an inscription 

~^M^i '^ "' honour of Bernh. Studer (d. 

^ J^^ .^ 1887), diverge by a path to tlio 

|_ -^^^^ '^ right, which ascends rapidly, 

|s ^^ '^^ passing a tine point of view on 

1 jg { '^^^^ the right, in 20 min. to the Re- 

I fa .' '^^^ staurant. The terrace commands 

ll"" r^^ a charming view (finest in the 

I ■ ill^l afternoon) of the Bodcli and the 

"^f^^ lakes of Thun and Brienz; the 

I2 1 Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger are 

^1^ ^ , ■.jwjAflitiJi visible from the small belvedere 

||" - ''^<^^^^Mu higherup. — Path f rom th e Trmfc- 

Z''^^X^ Tlie ruin of ^TJnspunnen (10 

^|.. ^\ "^^^^ min.), with a splendid view of 



Oherlnnd. INTERLAKEN. U. Itmile. 149 

the Lauterbrunnen valley, the Jungfraii , the Mcinch, and the Lake 
of Brienz, is reached through the Wagnereiischliuht (at the end of 
which on the left, is the *Cafe Unspunnen . with beautiful view), 
or by the Kleine Kugen (see p. 148). 

The ruined castle of Weissenau ('2 M.) on an island in the Aare near 
its influx into the Lake of Than (p. 145), is reached by the old road 
froni Matten, or by the road from Unterseen to Thun. 

To the Hohbiihl (2070'; ^U hr.), on the right bank of the Aare, a path 
ascends to the left immediately beyond the upper bridge over the Aare. 
(The lower path to the left leads to the Vogfsrxihe on the Aare, a resting- 
place and spring.) The pavilion commands a fine view , which is more 
extensive from the grassy slopes of the Vntere Bleicki, a few hundred 
paces higher. (The footpath leads to the right, crossing a brook after 
10 min.} From the Untere Bleicki a narrow path, called the Greierz-Leitei\ 
descends direct to the Lustbiihl (see below). Or we may return to the 
Hohbiihl and descend thence by steps to the Vogtsruhe, skirt the right 
bank, pass a rifle-ground, and reach the narrow and stony plain of Goldei, 
between the Harder and the Aare, at the base of the Falkenfltih^ the upper 
part of which , seen from the proper point of view, resembles an old 
man's face (the Hardermannli). On a rocky hill below the Falkenfluh is 
the Lustbiihl, a pavilion commanding another fine view. We may now 
return to Interlaken by the bridge behind the Casino (in all, I1/2-2 hrs.). 
— The Harder may be ascended by a picturesque and safe route (practi- 
cable for riding) which diverges to the right, from the Ilabkern road, 
1 M. to the N.W. of Unterseen, before the road to Beatenberg. We as- 
cend at first through wood (path steep at places) to (2 hrs.) the Harder- 
matte (3988'), which commands a magnificent view of Interlaken and the 
Bernese Alps. Thence we descend, passing above the Hardermannli (see 
above), to the Untere Bleicki and the (1 hr.) Ohere Aarebriicke at the E. 
end of Interlaken (see above). The beaten path should not be quitted 
without a guide, as accidents have occurred owing to the precipitous 
character of the mountain. — The Thurmberg, ascended in V2 hr. from 
Ooldsvvyl, beyond Felsenegg on the Brienz road (p. ITU), overlooks the 
Lake of Brienz and the small, sombre Fanlensee or lake of Goldswyl. — 
A walk may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Ringgenberg , with a 
picturesque church built among the ruins of the castle (view), and to 
the Schadburg (2388'; 1' 2 M. farther), on a spiir of the Graggen, an un- 
finished castle of the ancient barons of Ringgenberg, a still finer point. 

Longer Excursions (comp. the Map, p. 160). To St. Beaten- 
berg, either by railway and steamer to (40-50 min.) Merligen 
(p. 144), and thence by cable-train in 12 min.; or by the fine new 
road on the N. bank of the Lake of Thun , passing the Beatenhijhle 
(see p. 14i; to Merligen 7y2 ^^-i one-horse carr. in IY4 hr., there 
and back 9 fr., carriage and pair 16 fr. and fee). The direct road 
from Interlaken to St. Beatenberg (7'/2 M. ; carr. with one horse 15, 
with two horses 28 fr. ; to the Kurhaus 16 and 30 fr.) diverges, 
1 M. from Interlaken, to the left from the road into the Hahkernthil 
(p. 150), crosses the Lombach, and ascends through wood in wind- 
ings (avoidable by short-cuts). 

From Interlaken to the *6iessbach on the Lake of Brienz (p. 170) 
a steamer plies four times daily in summer (comp. p. 168). 

Bljnigen (ll/oM.), Gsteig {i^/4 M.), with a flue view from the 
churchyard, and Gsteigwyler (2'/2 ^■), with the ^Hohe Steg' over the 
Liitschine, also afford pleasant walks from Interlaken. 

The * Scheinige Platte (67^10'; to the top Si/a-i lirs. ; bridle- 



150 Route 44. SCHEINIGE PLATTE. Bermse 

path from Gsteigwyler) is one of the finest points of view in the 
Bernese Oberland. (Horse, incl. carriage to Gsteig, 20 fr. ; boy to 
carry luggage 1-2 fr.) From Interlaken to (1^4 ^0 Gsteig, see p. 151 . 
Here we may cross the bridge by the church and follow the road to the 
right to [3^4 M.) Gsteigwyler (Pens. Schonfels). In the middle of the 
village the bridle-path ascends to the left, and very soon to the left 
again ; after 12 min. it ascends in zigzags to the right, through wood. 
Or, shorter, we may ascend from Gsteig to the left, by a path between 
the church and the inn, turning to the right where the path divides, 
and in 20 min. reach the bridle-path at the point where it enters 
the wood. The bridle-path now mounts by numerous zigzags past 
the (11/2 hr. )Sc/toneg'9 (4754'), which overlooks Interlaken and the 
lakes of Thun and Brienz, to the (10 min.) picturesquely -situated 
*Kurhaus ^ Pension Breitlauenen (D. 3 fr.), and to the (50 min.) 
mountain-crest, which it crosses at its W. extremity. (On the right 
a furrowed rock called the 'Ameisenhaufen', or ant-hill.) A few 
steps more bring us to a striking scene. The Lauterbrunnen valley 
lies at our feet, its dizzy abysses descending almost perpendicularly 
to the Liitschine, and to the left towers the majestic Jungfrau. Fol- 
lowing the S. slope of the crest for 35 min., we arrive at the Hotel 
Alpenrose (6730'; R., L., & A. 41/2, B. 2, D. 4 fr.). The Platte, a 
crumbling and 'shining plateau' of slate-rock, is a few hundred paces 
from the hotel. The finest view is obtained from a bend in the path, 
a few paces before the Platte is reached. The traveller should not 
omit to visit the Jselten-Alp, 1/4 hr. to the N.E., a pasture which 
supports a herd of 600 cattle, with their pleasant tinkling bells. 

In order to enjoy a complete panorama, we skirt the left side of the 
perpendicular Gummihorn (6893') , to the N.W. of the hotel , and ascend 
the (20 min.) "Daube (6772'), whence the survey of the lakes towards the 
N. is particularly fine. 'To the S. we enjoy a magnificent view of the 
Bernese Alps: from left to right, the Wellborn, Wetterhiirner, Bergli- 
stock, Upper Grindelwald Glacier, Schreckhorner, Lauteraarhijrner, 
Lower Grindelwald Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn peeping over the Eiger- 
grat, the Fiescherhorner, Eiger, Miinch, Jungfrau, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn, 
Grosshorn, Breithorn, Tschingelhorn, Tschingelgrat, Gspaltenhorn, Weisse 
Frau, Doldenhorn, and numerous nearer peaks; far below is the Staubbach 
in the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Towards evening the lakes of Neuchatel 
and Bienne are seen glittering in the distance; and far to the N.E. Pilatus 
appears. — Descent from the Platte by Gilndlischwand to Zweiliitscfiinen, 
21/2-3 hrs., steep at places. At the small pond near the Platte to the right 
we descend across meadows to the (2/4 hr.) lower chalets of the Iselten- 
Alp (5116'; giiide to this point 2 fr.); thence through wood, no mistake 
being possible farther on. 

From the Soiieintge Platte to the Faulhokn (4 hrs; guide un- 
neces.sary). The l>ridlc-path, commanding splendid views, leads to the Iselten- 
Alp and on the .S. slopes of the Laucherhorn (8333') to the (1 hr.) ridge 
liounding the Siigislhal on the S. We then descend slightly to the (V^ hr.) 
Hiigislhal See., with its chalet (625S'), skirt its N. and E. banks, and ascend 
to the ridge lietween the Schirahhora .ind the Faulhorn. The top of the 
latter, 244.0' above the lake, is gained in 2 hrs. more (see p. 163). 

The Habkernthal, between the Harder and St. Beatenberg, may 
also be explored. Road to the village of (6 M.) Habkern (3600' ; 
Inn); one-horse carr. 15, two-horse 25 fr. 



Oherland. ABENDBERG. 44. Route. 151 

Three fine points of view may be visited hence. The ''Gemmenalp- 
horn (6773') is reached by crossing the Brdndlisegg, or by following the 
Bilhlbach, inihrs. (or better from the Amnisbiihel, p. 145). The Hohgant 
(7215') is ascended in 4 hrs. via Bohl (5902') and the Hagleischalp, or by 
the Alp Bosdlgau and through the Karrholen. To the S.W. of the Hoh- 
gant is the Grilnenberg (5Lt9o'), over which a pass leads from Habkern to 
Sehangnau in the Emmenthal (6 hrs.). The Augstmatthorn {Snggithurm, 
6S44'; 3'/2 hrs.) is ascended via the Bodini-Alp. 

The *Abendberg is reached from Interlaken hy a bridle-path in 
2 hrs. (horse 8 fr.), turning to the right in the Wagnerenschlucht 
(p. 148), and passing mostly through wood. The *H6tel Bellevue 
(3737'; pens, b^/2-7 fr.) commands a splendid view of the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen (Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreckhorn) and of the 
Lake of Brienz. A hardly distinguishable path leads from the last 
hut above the hotel to the right, across grass, to (20 min.) a tall 
dead fir-tree, known as the Siebenuhrtanne (2125'), whence there 
is a charming *View of the Lake of Thun, lying far below. 

A foot-path leads past the difl'erent peaks of the Abendberg to the 
(3 hrs.) Eothenegg (6232'; shortest way from the hotel, 2 hrs.). The next 
peaks of the range are the Fachsegg (6346'), the Grosse Schiffli (6674'), the 
Kleine Schiffli (6586'), and finally the Morgenberghoin (7383'). The last is 
very difficult from this side (better route from Saxeten, by the Tanzbodeli 
Pass, see p. 176). A footpath leads from the Hotel Bellevue to Saxeten in 
i hr. (the upper path to the right in the meadow, behind the second chalet). 

The Saxetenthal, between the Abendberg and the Bellenhbchst 
(6870'), is reached by the road (walking preferable to driving) 
to Miilinen and the (7 M.) village oi Saxeten {3G02'; Kreuz), which 
will even repay the pedestrian. About I1/4M. higher up are the 
falls of the Giirben and Weissbach, and the valley is picturesquely 
closed by the Schwalmern (9137'). 

The Sulegg (7914'; 372-4 hrs.), an excellent point of view, is ascended 
from Saxeten. We ascend by the (35 min.) GilrbenfaU to the Untere 
Jfesslern-Alp (4806'), cross the Giirbenbach to the left, and several other 
brooks descending from the Sulegg. Beyond the (1^/4 hr.) BeUen-Alp (6204'), 
we turn to the right between the Bellenhochsl (6870') and the Sulegg, skirt 
the E. slope of the latter, nearly as far as the Sulsalp, for V4 hr., and 
reach the top in 1 hr. more. The ascent is easier from Isenjluh (p. 152), 
via the Gummenalp and Sulsalp (372 hrs.; guide). — From Saxeten over the 
Tanzbodeli Pass and through the Suldthal to (6 hrs.) Aeschi, see p. 176 
(interesting; guide not indispensable). 

Interlaken may also be made the traveller's headquarters for 
many of the following excursions. 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 144, 160. 

851. Diligence twice daily in I3/4 hr., fare 2fr.75c. — Carriage from 
Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, or the reverse, with one horse 9, two horses 
16 fr.; there and back, with 2 hrs. stay, 11 or 20fr. ; with a longer stay, 
16 or 30 fr.; from Interlaken to Zweiliitschinen 6 or 10 fr. — Railway 
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, Miirren, and Grindelwald under con- 
struction (to be opened iu 1890). 

The road leads through orchards and meadows, by Matten, where 
the road to Wilderswyl (p. 146) diverges to the right, and Osteig 
(p. 150), to (2 M.) MiUinen. To the right rises the Abendberg, with 



152 Route 45. LAUTERBRUNNEN. Berne/>e 

the ruin of Unspuniien at its base ; beyond them are the Sohwalmerii 
and Sulegg. The road crosses the Saxltenbach, and soon enters tlio 
narrow gorge of the Liitschine. To tlie right rises the precipitous 
Rolhenjluh. At a spot in tliis delile, marlied by an inscription on tlio 
rock C/oM.), and named tlie Bosenstein, a baron of Rothenfluh is said 
to have slain liis brother. 

The valley expands, and divides into two branches near ('2'/4M.) 
Zweiliitschinen(213'2'; Bar, dear), a village on the right bank of the 
Liitschine. The valley of the Black Liitschine to the left ascends to 
Grindelwald (p. 153; view of the Wetterhorn in the background); 
that of the White Liitschine leads in a straight direction to(3'/4M.) 
Lauterbrunnen. The valley of Lauterbrunnen begins at the Hunnen- 
fluh , a rock resembling a gigantic round tower, and is bounded by 
precipitous limestone rocks, 1000-1500' in height. It derives its 
name (iauter Brunnen, 'nothing but springs') from the numerous 
streams which descend from the rocks, or from the springs which 
rise at their bases in summer. 

Interesting excursion to (IV4 lir.) Isenfluh (3600'; "Pens. Isenfluh, 5 fr.). 
About '/2 M- trom Zweiliitscliinen the l)ridle-path diverges to the right 
from the Lauterbrunnen road and ascends the steep W. slope of the valley 
(shade after 3 p.m. ; a second path ascends by the Sausbach opposite the 
Hunnenfluh, see above). Isenfluh commands a splendid view of the Jung- 
frau. A still finer view is obtained from the path from Isenfluh to Murren 
(31/4 hrs.; guide necessary only for novices; from Zweiliitschinen to Miir- 
ren 7 fr.j. At the upper end of the village (','4 hr.) this path turns to the 
left and ascends to the (V4 hr.) Sausbach (5050'), and tlicn more steeply 
for 25 min. to the Fliisc/ncaldweid (5608'). Ilere we turn to the left and 
proceed to the chalets of Alpligen (5792'), where we descend. The path, 
which commands a fine view of the Jungfrau and its neighbours , next 
traverses the Pleisc/ien-Alps, crosses the Pletscliback and the Spissbach, 
joins the (l'/4 hr.) Lauterbrunnen path, and reaches (35 min.) Miirren (p. 
154). — Ascent of the Stilegc/ (7914'), 31/2 hrs., see p. 151. ' 

To Wengen and the Pens. Silberhorn (p. 15S) a path ascends in 3/4 I'r. 
from the Lochmiihle on the Lauterbrunnen road, 2'/4 M. from Zweiliitschinen, 
crossing the bridge to the left (pleasanter and shorter than the steep path 
from Lauterbrunnen). 

8 M. Lauterbrunnen (2615'; *Steinhock, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. li/o, 
D. 4 fr.; *M6tel Stuubbach, with view of the Staubbach, R., L., & 
A. 3-4, D. 4 fr. ; guides, Christ., Joh., Vlrich, and Peter Lauener, 
Heinr. and Fritz v. Almen , Fritz Graf, father and son, Friedr. 
Fuchs , Ulrich Brunner , etc.), a pretty, scattered village , lies on 
both banks of the Liitschine , in a rocky valley l/o M. broad, into 
which in July the sun's rays do not penetrate before 7 a.m., and in 
winter not till noon. The snow-mountain to the left, rising above 
the lower mountains, is the Jungfrau; to the right is the Breithorn. 
Carved wood good and cheap here. 

From the rocky heights in the environs are precipitated some 
twenty brooks, the best known of which is the *Staubbach ('dust- 
brook'), 5 min. to the S. of the Hotel Staubbach. This brook, which 
is never of great volume, and in dry summers is disappointing, 
descends from a projecting rock in a single fall of 980', tlie greater 
part of it, before it reaches the ground, being converted into spray. 



Oherland. STAUBBACH. 4/5. Route. 153 

which bedews the meadows and trees far and near. In the morning, 
in sunshine, it resembles a transparent, silvery veil, wafted to and 
fro by the breeze, and frequently tinted witli rainbow hues. 15y 
moonlight also it presents a beautiful appearance. The best point 
of view is in a meadow in front of the fall, to the left of a seat in- 
dicated by a flag (20 c). 

Beautiful walk (i'/s lir- there and back) to the fall of the *Truminel- 
bach. We follow the Stechelberg road (p. 156) on the right bank of the 
Liitschine for I'/a 31. to the Triimmelbach bridge, and diverge to the left, 
either on this side of the bridge, or 2 min. beyond it, to the (5 min.) en- 
trance of a narrow gorge (rendered accessible by steps and railings on both 
sides ; adm. 50 c), where the copious stream, fed by the glaciers of the 
Jungfrau , is precipitated into a round water-worn cauldron. During 
sunshine three rainbows are formed in the spray, one above, another op- 
posite, and the third below the spectator, a beautiful scene. 

46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Fall 
of the Schmadribach. 

Comp. Maps, pp. Hi, ISO. 

Bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen to Sliirren 2V2, Trachsellauenen 2, 
the Schmadri Fall and back 2, Lauterbrunnen 21/2 hrs. — Horse 12 fr.; to 
Miirren, Trachsellauenen, and back 15 fr. ; porter from Lauterbrunnen to 
Miirren 6 fr. ; chair, fur each bearer (4 required), 6 fr. : sledge (rough) 
for 2 pers. from the Pletschbach inn to Lauterbrunnen 5 fr. — Blountain 
Railway from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren under construction (see p. 151). 

One of the finest excursions from Lauterbrunnen is to Miirren and the 
Fall of the Schmadribach. The walk takes a whole day, and is fatiguing 
if extended to the Upper Steinberg (in which case a boy should be en- 
gaged at Trachsellauenen as a guide) If not extended beyond Miirren, which 
is the chief point of interest, the excursion may easily be accomplished, 
returning by Stechelberg, in 6 hours. To Miirren, Gimmelwald, and Stechel- 
berg a bridle-path, thence to Lauterbrunnen (3'/2 M.) a carriage-road. As 
the view from Miirren is flnest byevening light, it is preferable to go first 
to the Schmadribach, and thence toJIurren, and spend the night there. (The 
path is in shade early in the morning and towards evening.) 

The path from Lauterbrunnen to (2y.2 hrs.) Miirren, which is 
very muddy after rain, ascends rapidly to the right about 200 paces 
from the Steinbock Hotel, trends to the right, and crosses the Grei/en- 
hach twice. Beyond the second bridge (20 min.) it ascends through 
wood, crosses the FLuhbdchli, the (20 min.) Lauibach (tine water- 
fall), and the Herrenbcichli, and reaches (25 min.) the bridge over 
the small Pletschbach or Staubbach (4037'; Inn). In 5 min. 
more, where the wood has been much thinned, we obtain a beauti- 
ful view of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger, which remain in sight 
for the rest of the way. Farther up, by (1/2^1.) a saw-mill (4923'), 
we cross two branches of the Spissbach , and in 25 min. more reach 
the top of the hill. 

At this point a magnificent '*View of an amphitheatre of mountains and 
glaciers is suddenly revealed: the Eiger and the Monch, the Jungfrau 
with its dazzling Schneehorn and Silberhorn, the huge precipices of the 
Sehwarze Monch rising abruptly fniu the valley, the wall of the Kbne- 
Fluh with its conical peak to the left and its mantle of .spotless snow, the 
Mitta'^horn, the Grosshnrn, the Breithorn (^ource of the Schmadribach), 
the Tschingelhom, the Tschingelgrat, and the Ospallenhorn. This prospect 



154 Route 46. 



MURREN. 



Bernese 




IS far grander than fhat from the 
Wengernalp, although the view thence 
of the Jungfrau itself is unrivalled. 
The path, now level, leads a- 
cross pastures ia l/o hr. more to the 
Alpine village of Murren (5348' ; 
' Grand Hot. <1 Kurhaus Miirren, 
It., L., & A. 5-6, B. li/-,, lunch 
J, D. 5, pens, in July and Aug. 
10-14, at other times 9-12 fr.; * Or. 
Hot. des Alpes, good cuisine, sim- 
ilar charges; Engl. Ch. Serv.}, 
where the Wetterhorn also be- 
( ODies visible to the left, and the 
^eflnen-Furgge to the extreme 
right (p. 156J. 

A more extensive viev? is obtain- 
ed from the Allmendhubel (6358'; ^4 
hr.), a height to the W., above the 
^illage, and from the Obere Winter- 
egg (5738'; Vz hr.). The path to the 
1 itfer diverges to the left from the 
I auterbrunnen path beyond the 
1 ridge over the Egertenhach, 10 min. 
tinm the Hotel Miirren (finger-post), 
md ascends through wood to the Alp. 
The best point of view is by the upper 
chalet (to the right). Nothing is gained 
bv ascending the hill to the left. 

The =SchiIthorn (9748'; 3'/2-4 hrs., 
guide 7 fr.) is a very admirable point 
)f view. The path ascends pastures 
to the chalets oiAllmend{ou the right 
lb the Allmendhubel, see above), and 
f irther up enters the dreary ^^^(/eMaJ, 
which ends in a rocky basin at the 
foot of the Schilthorn (to this point, 
li'/s hrs. from Miirren, riding is prac- 
ticable; horse 12 fr.). Then a steep 
ascent over snow, loose stones, and 
rock, past the monument to Mrs. 
Arbuthnot, who was killed here by 
lightning in 1865, to the arete be- 
tween the Kleiite and Grosse Schilt- 
liovn, and without difiiculty to the 
(ihr.) flattened summit. Magnificent 
survey of the Jungfrau, the queen of 
the Bernese Alps, and of the whole 
chain (including the Bliimlisalp, to 
the S.W., quite near), and of N. 
Switzerland (the Rigi, Pilatus, etc.); 
Panorama by Imfeld. Mont Blanc is 
not visible hence, but is seen from 
the arete, about 250 yds. to the W., a 
little below the summit. — The de- 
scent through the imposing Sejlnenthal 
tp. 155) , by the Se'finenalp and the 
Teu/ehlriicke (a fine point above 
Gimmelwald), is longer by I'/z hr. 



Oberland. TRACHSELLAUENEN. 46. Route. 155 

than the direct path, but far more interesting (unsuitable for ladies). A 
shorter way back leads past the Grane SeeU and down the steep Schill- 
Jiiihe (guide advisable), and afterwards through the beautiful pastures of 
the Schilialp , with views of the Jungfrau, etc. — Another route (inter- 
esting ; guide advisable) crosses the Rothe Herd and the Telli (a saddle be- 
tween the Grosse Hundshorn and the Wild-Andrist) to the DUrrenberg 
Chalets in the Kienthal (see p. 156.). 

From Miirren the path descends to the left; 10 min., we 
cross the Mitrrenbach; 25 min., hamlet of Gimmelwald (4547'; 
*Pens. Schilthorn, plain, 5-6 fr., Engl. Church Service in summer), 
on the brink of the grand Sefinenthal, which is enclosed by the pre- 
cipices of the Biittlassen, the Gspaltenhorn, and the Tschingelgrat. 

To the Sefinenthal, an interesting walk (as far as the Gspalten Glacier 
and back 3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). To the W. of the Pens. Schilthorn 
we cross the (5 min.) Schiltbach, and ascend by a beautiful path on the 
left side of the Sefinenthal (with the superb Jungfrau behind us); then 
(3/4 hr.) cross a bridge and enter a pine-wood, and lastly, in a grand 
basin, with numerous waterfalls, traverse stony debris to the (^/t hr.) 
Gspaltenhorn (or Kirchspalt) Glacier, at the foot of the Gspaltenhorn. Back 
by the same route. 

We next (1/4 hr.) cross the Sefinen - Liltschine , and ascend a 
little, then descend. In 10 min. more we pass a fine *Fall of the 
Sefinen -Liltschine on the left. Beyond a brook descending from 
the right, 2 min. farther on , the path divides : the branch to the 
eft descends steeply to (1/4 hr.) Stechelberg (p. 156); that to the 
right (finger-post) leads to (50 min.) Trachsellauenen (4144' ; Hot. 
Schmadribach, R. & L. 3' . o, B. 1 ^j^, pens. 5 fr.), a cluster of chalets on 
the left bank of the Weisse Liltschine. The path, now ill-defined, still 
following the left bank, passes (10 min.) a deserted silver-foundry, 
ascends, first to the right and then to the left, round the projecting 
rocks of the Nadla and past the chalets ('/2 hr.) of the Vnter- 
Steinberg Alp (4480'), where it crosses (to the left) the Thalbach. 
Ascending the pastures on the right bank , we pass a waterfall, 
mount the Holdri, and reach ('/o hr.) the Lager Chalet, in sight 
of the grand *Schmadribach Fall. The stream must be crossed 
higher up by those who desire a nearer view, but this takes another 
hour, and hardly repays the loss of time. — From the Obere 
Steinbergalp (5794') , which is seen high up on the pastures to 
the right (ascent 11/2 hr. from Trachsellauenen; guide not indis- 
pensable), the *View is far more imposing; the Tschingel Glacier 
lies close to us on the right, and we also obtain a good survey of the 
Schmadri Fall. On the top is the Chalet Steinberg , a small inn 
(well spoken of), and 20 min. farther on, near the Steinberg chalet 
is a second small Jnn (dear). 

A pleasant walk (boy as guide l'/2-2 fr.) may be taken from the Obere 
Steinberg along the Tschingel Glacier, and via the Oberhornalp to the (I1/2 hr.) 
beautiful blue 'Oberhornsee (G822'), magnificently situated in the rocky 
hollow between the Tschingel and Breithorn glaciers. 

Fkom Murren to the Obere Steinberg, direct (3 hrs.; guide 6 fr.). 
About 5 min. beyond the third bridge on the way to Trachsellauenen 
(where the path to Stechelberg diverges ; i hr. from Jliirren, see above) 
we diverge to the right, and in 20 min. again turn to the right. Passing 
(20 min.) a deserted shaft, we ascend to the right in zigzags (past a good 



156 Route 40. SEFINEN-FtJRGGE. Bernese 

spring) to (25 min.) a cattle-shed, and cross a precipitous gorge. Tlie 
enclosure opposite marks the beginning of the Obere Steinberg-Alp. In 
40 min. more we reach the Inn (p. 155), and enjoy a snperb view. Descent 
■across pastures and through wood (Wilde Bck); then tlirougli a narrow 
ravine, stony and steep, and under two timber-slides, to (I hr.) the chalets 
of the Unter-Sleinberg (p. 155). 

From Trachsellauenen to Lauterbrunnen, 2 hours. At (25 min.) 
SicheUauenen we cross the Liltschine, which dashes wildly down its 
rocky bed; and at the (1/4 hr.) Bridge of Stechelberg (3025'; Inn) 
we reach the bottom of the valley and the carriage-road. Near 
(3/4M.) Matten, a fall of the Miirrenbach to the left. At the(3/4M.) 
Dornige Brilcke we keep to the right. We pass (•/2^I-3 ^ waterfall 
of the Eosenbach, and (5 min. from the road) the interesting fall of 
the^Trummelbach (p. 153). Then (1 1/2 M.) Lauterbrunnen (p. 152). 

Passes (comp. Map, p. 178). From Lauteebrdnnen over the Sefinen- 
FcRGGE TO THE KiENTUAL, not difficult, and on the whole attractive 
(10-11 hrs. to Reichenbach ; guide 22 fr.). From (2V2 hrs.) Miirren (p. 151) 
the path ascends via the Alp Boyanggen to the (3 hrs.) Sefinen-Furgge 
(8583'), between the Grosse Ihindshorn (9620') and the liuttlassen (10,490'; 
p. 176). (The path by Gimmelwald and through the Seflnenthalis easier, but 
1 hr. longer.) Descent (fine view of the Wilde Frau and Blumlisalp) past 
the chalets on the Diirreiiberg (6545'), and on the Steinenherg (485G' ; night- 
quarters) to the huts of Gorneren and down the Barenpfad to the (2 hrs.) 
Tschingel-Alp (3783'j and down the Kienthal to (2'/2hrs.) Reichenbach (p. 176). 
— From the Steinenberg-Alp over the Gamchiliicke to the Tschingeljivn, see 
p. 176. 

From Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg o^tiu the Sefinen-Furgge and 
THE HoHTHURLi , a loDg and fatiguing walk (14 hrs. : guide necessary, 
25 fr.). The night may, if necessary, be passed at the Diirrenberg chalets 
or in the Frauenbalm'llut. Over the Sefinen-Furgge to the Kienthal, see 
above. Before the path reaches the Sleinenherg Alp we descend to the 
left, cross the Pochtenbach (the discharge of the GamcM Glacier, p. 176), 
ascend to the Bundalp, and traverse pastures, stony slopes, and snow to 
(4>/2 hrs. from the Furgge) the Hohthiirli or Diinden Pass (8875') , a de- 
pression of the Oeschinengrat between the Schwarzhorn (9150') and the 
Wilde Frau (10,693'), afl'ording a superb view of the Blumlisalp, Dolden- 
horn, etc. (To the left of the pass is the Frauenbalm Club IIu(, p. 178.) 
We now descend over loose stones and the rocky ledges of the Schafberg 
(with the Blumlisalp Glacier quite near us on the left) to the Upper Oeschi- 
nen-Alp (6470'), and by steep steps cut in the rock, to the Lower Oeschinen- 
Alp, pass round the W. side of the Oeschinen- See (5223'), and reach (4 hrs.) 
Kandersteg (p. 178). 

"From Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg over the Tschingei, Pass 
(14 hrs.; 6-7 hrs. on snow and ice; guide 30 fr.), a grand and interesting 
route, fatiguing, but for tolerable mountaineers free from difficulty. A 
night had better be spent at (2 hrs.) Trachsellauenen or on the Upper 
Steinberg (see p. 155). We now follow the W. slope of the valley to 
the (3/4 hr.) Lower Tschingei Glacier, cross it, and toil up the left la- 
teral moraine to the ('/2 hr.) base of the W. rocks, the ascent of which 
is very steep at first; a nearly perpendicular part, called the Tschingellrilt, 
is about 13' high. Farther up (40 min.) we come to turf (pleasanter; a 
halt usually made here; superb view). 'Then again across debris in '/s iir. 
to the upper Tscliingelfirn, an immense expanse of snow; for 20 min. we 
follow the left moraine, and then take to the glacier, where the rope be- 
comes necessary. A gradual ascent of I'A hr. brings us to the top of the 
Tschingei Pass (9267') , where a view of the mountains of the Gastern- 
thal is disclosed; behind us towers the most majestic Jungfran with her S. 
neighbours, and to the left is the Eiger. On the right are the furrowed 
Gspaltenhorn (p. 176) and the Gamchiliicke (9295' ; pass to the Kienthal, 
p. 176). An additional hour may be devoted to visiting the latter, which 



Oberland. TSCHINGEL PASS. 46. Uoute. 157 

airords <a striking survey of the Kienthal, the Xiesen, and the Bernese 
plain. To the left of the Tschingel Pa's rises the Multhovn (9978'l. 
The descent across the snow is easy. (The W. arm of the glacier, bound- 
ed on the right by the rocky walls of the Blumlisalp and the Friinden- 
horn, and on the left by the Petersgrat, is called the Kandevfivn.) After 
IV4 hr. we quit the snow for the left lateral moraine. The route de- 
scends steeply, over loose stones and then over grass, to the Gasiernthal, 
passing a spur which overlooks the magnificent ice-fall of the Kander 
Glacier (which has receded greatly of late). We then for a considerable 
time follow the narrow margin of a huge old moraine, which descends 
precipitously on the right to the former bed of the glacier, 170-200' below ; 
l'/2 hr.. bridge over the Kander; 6 min., the first chalet (coflfee, milk, and 
two beds); '/4hr., Seldeii-. 2 hrs., Kandersteg fp. 178). 

*FroM LaUTERBRUKNEN to the LoTSCnESTH.IL OVER THE PeTERSGRAT 

(from Trachsellauenen to Ried 10-11 hrs.). trying, but very grand (guide 
40 fr.). From Trachsellauenen to the (3'/2-4 hrs.) upper Tschingel Jim., see 
p. 156. On the Firn we ascend to the left, between the Mutihorn and 
the Tscliingelliofn, to the (3 hrs.) Petersgrat (10.516'), a lofty snow -arete 
commanding a superb view of the Alps of the Valais. Then a steep descent 
over snow, rockv slopes, and turf, either through the Ausser Fafler-Thal 
to the Fufler Alp (10 min. below the Gletscherstaffel Alp, p. 297). or 
through the Tellithal to Blatten and (3V2 hrs.) Ried (p. 182). — The Wet- 
terliicke (10,365'), between theTschingelhorn andBreithorn. and theSchma- 
drijoch (10.863'). between the Breithorn and Grosshorn, are difficult. 

From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggishorn over theLauinenthor (12,000'J, 
a difficult and hazardous expedition (18 hrs., the night being spent in the 
Roththal hut), through the wild Roihthal, across the huge rock-arete con- 
necting the Jungfrau (13,670') and Gletscherltorn (13,064'), and down the 
Kranzberg-Firn and the Great Aletsch Glacier' to the Concordia Hut and 
the Eggishorn Hotel (p. 304). — Over the Roththal-Sattel (12.330'), close 
to the Jungfrau (p. 158), also very difficult and dangerous (19-20 hrs. to 
the Eggishorn). — Over the Ehnefluhjoch (12,300'), between the Ebnejluh 
and Mitiaghorn. very laborious, but without danger to experts (15-16 hrs.). 
— It will repay a good walker to go as far as the Roththal Club Hut 
(8860') in the Roththal (6 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, crossing the Stii/ensiein- 
Alp), and to return the same way (a good day's walk; guide 15 fr.). 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp. 

Comp. Maps., pp. 144, Itio. 

Two routes lead from Interlaken to Grindelwald : the Road by Zwei- 
liitschinen and through the Ltitschenthal (12'/2M.; Diligence twice daily 
in 3 hrs., fare 5 fr.) ; and the 'Bridle Path over the Wengernalp [road 
to (8 M.) Lauterbrunnen, p. 152; thence to the Wengernalp 3 (descent 2). 
Little Scheidegg 2/4 (descent '2), Grindelwald 2' 2 hrs. (ascent 3','2) ; in all 
6V4 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, or 8-10 hrs. from Interlaken]. 'The latter 
route, one of the finest and most frequented in Switzerland, should cer- 
tainly be chosen in fine weather. 

Carriage from Interlaken to Grindelwald, one-horse 14, two-horse 
25 fr., there and back in one day 16 or 30, in two days 30 or 50 fr. ; to 
Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald and back in one day 20 or 35, in two days 
30 or 50 fr. ; to Grindelwald via Lauterbrunnen and the Wengernalp. the 
horses being ridden by the travellers over the latter, for one day 25 or 
80 fr., for two days 35 or 60 fr. ; to Lauterbrunnen. Miirren, the Wengern- 
alp, and Grindelwald and back in three days. 45 or 80 fr. 

Horse from Lauterbrunnen over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald (or 
the reverse) 20 fr. ; Wengernalp and back 12, Little Scheidegg 14 fr. — 
The ascent may be made on horseback, either from Lauterbrunnen or 
Grindelwald, but in descending the traveller should dismount at the steep 
and stony declivity near Grindelwald, as well as at the last precipitous 
descent into the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Sledge from Wengen to Lauter- 
brunnen 3 fr. (enquire at the hotels). A shorter route ascends from the 



158 Route 17. WENGERNALP. Bernese 

Lochmuhlc (near Zvveiliitschiuen, p. 152) to Wengen. Guide (11 fr.) un- 
necessary. Chaises-a-porteurs at Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. The in- 
terested advice of guides and drivers as to hotels should be disregarded. 

i. The Road from Interlaken to Grindelwald crosses the 
White LiUschine at (4V2 M.) Z^ueilutschinen (p. 152), and then the 
Black LiUschine at Gimdlischwand , and gradually ascends the 
picturesque, well-wooded Liitschenthal, enlivened with numerous 
farm-houses. It then (3 M.) crosses the river four times within a 
short distance , and ascends more rapidly (fine retrospective view ; 
rfmts.) to (IV2 M.) Burglauenen (2995'). The fall of the Fallbach, 
on the right , is insignificant in summer. Ahout 1 M. farther, 
beyond a narrow part of the valley, opens the Grindelwaldthal, en- 
closed hy Imposing mountains (Eiger, Mettenherg, Schreckhorn. 
and Wetterhorn). On the right are the grassy and wooded slopes 
of the Mannlichen, with the inn on the saddle to the left (p. 162). 
Then (^^iM.) Grindelwald. 

ii. From Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald over the "Wen- 
GBRNALP. We cross the Liitschine by the Staubbach Hotel, turn to 
the left, and after 3 min. ascend to the right. After a steep ascent 
of 3/4 hr. we reach a projecting rock with a pavilion which affords 
a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen Thai. (Adjacent is the small 
*H6t.-Pens. Silberhorn^U. 1-2, pens. 4-6 fr. ; direct route to it from the 
Lochmiihle, see p. 152.) Farther up, where (20 min.) a finger-post 
shows the way to the right to the (1/4 hr.) *Pens. Wengen (5-51/2 fr-)) 
we turn to the left to the (8 min.) *H6t.-Pens. Mittayhorn, and next 
reach the (5 min.) *Pens.Alpenrose (same proprietor; pens. 5-6 fr.), 
with a new school adjacent. We then ascend the shady pastures of 
the village of Wengen, straight towards the precipitous Tschuggen 
(p. 160), at the base of which (1/2 lir.; auberge) the path turns to 
the right; it then passes a second auberge (famous echo), skirts the 
slopes of the Lauberhorn, and enters a pine-wood (marsliy at places ). 
On quitting the wood (40 min.) we avoid the broad path in a straight 
direction (which leads to the Mettlenalp, see below), and ascend to 
the left , rapidly at first, over the pastures of the *Wengernalp to 
the (3/4 hr.) '""HotelJungfrau (6184'; R., L., & A. 4-5, B. 2, D. 
4 fr., telephone to the Scheidegg; carved wood by A. Zurfliih). 
Travellers from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald generally halt here, 
or at the Scheidegg (p. 159), between 10 and 12 o'clock, producing 
a Babel of tongues, which is music to the innkeepers. To the W. 
we obtain a good survey of the valley of Lauterbrunnen , with tlio 
Staubbach (p. 152) reduced to a mere thread, its upper fall, and 
the windings of the brook before its final leap. High above the 
valley are the large hotels of Miirren. 

The *Jungfrau (13,670'), with her dazzling shroud of eternal 
snow, flanked by the Silberhorn (12,156') on the right, and the 
Schneehorn (11,204') on the left, now appears in all her majesty. 
The proportions of the mountain are so gigantic, that the eye in 
vain attempts to estimate them, and distance seems annihilated by 



Oberland. JUNGFRAU. 47. Route. 159 

their vastness. The highest peak, farther S., is not visible hence or 
from Lauterbrunnen. The base, as far as it is seen, is precipitous. 

Avalanches. These terrible and magnificent phenomena are caused by 
the accumulation of vast masses of snow and ice on the upper parts of the 
mountains, from which, as the warmer season advances, they slide off by 
their own weight with irresistible force. On the Wengernalp the traveller 
will have an opportunity of witnessing the ice-avalanche, or fall of portions 
of the glacier detached under the influence of the summer's sun. Seen 
from a distance the falling ice, breaking into fragments in its descent, re- 
sembles a rushing cataract , and is accompanied by a noise like thunder. 
These avalanches are most numerous shortly after noon, when the sun 
exercises its greatest power. Except that the solemn stillness which 
reigns in these desolate regions is interrupted by the echoing thunders of the 
falling masses , the spectacle can hardly be called imposing. The appar- 
ently insignificant white cascade, however, often consists of hundreds of 
tons of ice , capable of sweeping away whole forests and villages, but 
fortunately descending into the uninhabited Trumleten-Thal, a deep gorge 
between the Jungfrau and the Wengernalp. 

Between 1811, when the Jungfkau was scaled for the first time by the 
two Meyers of Aarau , and 1856 the ascent was only accomplished five 
times ; but it has since been undertaken frequently, and though extremely 
fatiguing, is unattended with danger to experts (guides SOfr. each; with 
descent on the other side, lOOfr. ; porter 40fr.). The ascent from Grindel- 
wald is much facilitated by spending a night in the Monchltiitte (p. 163), 
G'/z-''' hrs. from Grindelwald ; thence over the Monchjoch and the Jung- 
fraiifirn to ihe Rot/itlial-Sattel (p. 157) 4-41/2 hrs., and to the top in iVi hr. 
more. (Travellers ascending from the Eugishorn Hotel spend the night in 
the Concordiahufle on the Faulberg, 9417', 5 hrs. from the hotel ; thence 
to the summit 6-7 hrs.). — The ascent from Lauterbrunnen by the Roththal- 
Battel is difficult and hazardous. In 18?5 the Jungfrau was ascended by a 
new route from the Roththal Club-hut fp. 157), leaving the Koththal to the right 
(71/2 hrs., toilsome but not dangerous for climbers with steady heads). 
— The Silberhorn (12,156') was ascended for the first time, in 1863, by 
Ed. V. Fellenberg and Karl Baedeker (from the Wengern-Scheidegg by the 
Eiger, Guggi, and Giessen Glaciers, in 12'/2 hrs.; difficult and trying). The 
ascent by the W. arete was first performed in 1887 by Mr. Seijmour King 
with the guides Ambr. Supersax and L. Zurbriicken. 

The Mettlenalp (5580'). on the N. side of the Triimleten-Thal, also af- 
fords a noble survey of (he Jungfrau. From the bifurcation of the path, 2 hrs. 
from Lauterbrunnen and s/^hr. from theHotel Jungfrau (see above), we reach 
the Alp in a straight direction in ^4 hr.; the Jungfrau is here visible from 
base to summit. From the Mettlenalp we either ascend to the Wengernalp 
inV4hr., or walk round the head of the Triimleten-Thal to the (1 hr.) 
Biglenalp, with the Kiihlauenen Glacier. From the Biglenalp to the 
Wengernalp ^/i hr. 

A visit to the Guggihiitte (7972'), at the N.W. base of the Monch, be- 
tween the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers . is recommended to good walkers 
with steady heads (3-4 hrs. from the Wengernalp or the Kleine Scheidegg, 
with guide). The passage of the crevassed Eiger Glacier, which has ad- 
vanced considerably of late years , and forms a beautiful archway of ice 
with a lofty waterfall at its lower end, takes 11,2-2 hrs. (step-cutting being 
necessary from the middle onwards); then a steep climb of I1/2 hr. over 
rock, debris, and patches of snow to the Club Hut, grandly situated. 
Steep descent over the ridges of rock below the Guggl Glacier to the 
(l'/2 br.) upper end of the Bandlaiiinenwand , and a somewhat difficult 
clamber down this slope to the Biglenalp (see above). 

A gradual ascent of 35 min. from the Jungfrau Hotel brings 
us to the summit of the pass, called the Little Scheidegg, Lauter- 
brunnen-Scheidegg , or Wengern-Scheidegg (Q~SS'; *H6tel Bellevue; 
wood-carver Jean ZurfluJi). This ridge, which descends abruptly 



160 Routed?. GRINDELWALD. Berne<e 

on botli siiles, affords a striking view ol' the valley of (jriiuh^lvvald, 
bouudeil on the N. by the mountains which separate it from the 
Lake of Brienz (to the extreme left is the blunt cone of the Faul- 
horn with its inn). On the S. line view of the Miiiirli, Kiger and 
Jungfraii, with the Silberhorn and Sclineehorn. 

The 'Lauberhom (8120'), a peak rising from the ridge which runs to 
the N. from the Scheidegg to the Miinnlichen , may be ascended in 1 hr., 
or from the Wengernalp in I1/2 hr. (descent 1 hr.). This ascent is chiefly 
recommended to those who have not visited the Faulhorn. View e.xtensive 
and imposing. Travellers from Grindelwald add only I'/a hr. to their walk 
by taking the route from the Scheidegg to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lau- 
berhorn. Guide hardly necessary. — The Tschuggen (8278'; ascent more 
fatiguing), which rises to the N. of the Lauberhorn, commands a more ex- 
tensive, but less picturesque view. — Or the traveller may walk from the 
Scheidegg along the E. slope of the Tschuggen to the (2'/2-3 hrs.) °Mann- 
lichen {7694'), the N. summit of this ridge (p. 162). In this case the walk 
from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald will take 9-iO hrs. The Miinnlichen 
may also be ascended (with guide ; steep but not difficult) direct from 
Wengen, in which case the way is not longer than over the Wengernalp 
to Grindelwald. — The Fallbodenhuhel (7136'), reached in V2 br. by as- 
cending the pastures to the S. of the Scheidegg, affords a fine survey of 
the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers. — To the Gugrji Club Hut, see p. 159. 

The descent to Grindelwald traverses stony slopes, poor pastures, 
and sparse wood, passing the (1/4 hr.) Chalets of Mettlen (6250') 
and (3/4 hr.) those of Alpiglen (5287'; Hot. des Alpes), on a com- 
manding terrace. (The direct path hence 'to the Eismeer' Is inter- 
esting and repaying, but should be attempted only by experts with 
guides, ice-axes, and ropes.) Below Alpiglen (3/^ hr.), we leave 
the bridle-path, which leads straight into a hollow, descend by the 
path to the left, through enclosed meadows with scattered cottages 
to the (20 min.) bridge over the Lutschlne, and then gradually 
ascend in 20 min. more to the high-road. (Travellers from Grindel- 
wald to the Wengernalp ascend to the right at the bridge.) 

From the Little Scheidegg to Grindelwald a Footpath, pleasanter than 
the above route, skirts the left bank of the Wergisthalbach , commanding 
fine views, and leading for 1 hr. through pine-forest. Guide advisable. 

Grindelwald. — 'Bae, at the W. end of the village, R., L., & A.4-5, 
I?. IV2, 1'. 4-1V-5 pens. 10 fr.; *ScnwAnzER Adi.er, at the E. end, with a 
pleasant garden, similar charges; 'Hot. Eiger, in the middle of the village, 
B., L., & A. 3'/2, U. 4, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Hot. du Glacier, outside the village, 
near the W. end, R. from 21/2, B. IV2, D. 4, A. 1, pens. 8 fr.; -Hot.-Pens. 
Bdrgemer, R. 21/2, B. I'A, pens. 6-7 fr. ; "Hot.- Pens. Alpenruhe, R. 2, 
B. l'/4, U. 2V2, pens. 5 fr. ; 'Pension Schonegg, by the post-office, with 
garden, pens. 5 fr. — Guides : Peter Schlegel, Christian and Vlrich Aimer ^ 
Peter Baumnnn ('am Guggen'), Chr. Bohren, Rud. Kaufmann-Bohren, Utul. 
Kaufmaiin - Kehhalden, Peter Kaufmann, Chr. Jossi, and many others. — 
Fees mentioned in the description of each e.xcursion. 

Grindelwald (3468'; pop. 3094), properly Gydisdorf, a large 
•village of widely scattered houses, is an excellent starting-point for 
mountain excursions, and also a favourite summer-resort, the situa- 
tion being sheltered and healthful. 

This place chiefly owes its repute to its two Glaciers ; but these 
are very inferior to the Rhone Glacier and many others in Switzer- 
land. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S., the 







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Oberland. GRINDELWALD. 47. Route. 161 

Eiger (13,042'), the Mettenberg (10,197'), which forms the base of 
the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn (12,150'). Between these lie 
the two glaciers, which form the source of the Black Liltschine. 

To visit the *TJpper Glacier (horse there and back 8 fr.) we 
follow the Great Scheidegg path (p. 160) as far as the (3/4 hr.) * Hotel 
Wetterhorn (4040'; R. i'/2, pens. 4V2-5 fr.; cannon-shot 50 c). 
near which we pass a memorial to Dr. A. Haller of Biirgdorf and 
two guides, who perished on the Lauteraar glaciers in 1880. Here 
we diverge to the right, cross the Liltschine and the moraine, skirt 
the rock to the right, and in 10 min. reach the artificially hewn Ice 
Grotto (tickets of adm. at the hotel, 1/2 fr.; a small fee is also usually 
given). 

Another way back to Grindelwald (guide not indispensable) is by a 
path diverging before the bridge <,iver the Liitschine, and ascending the 
left moraine to the Chalet Milchbach (auberge ; visible from below ; also 
reached by a direct but rather giddy path from the grotto), which af- 
fords a good view of the ice-fall. The path then enters the wood to the 
right, where it is ill-defined, passing between the Mettenberg and the wooded 
Offals', and then, becoming well marked, descends on the left bank of the 
Liitschine and across the Sulz to (IV4 hr.) Grindelwald. — From the Cha- 
let Milchbach we may, by means of ladders (not recommended to novices; 
guide necessary), ascend several rocks on the N.E. slope of the Metten- 
berg, pass through the Milchbachloch and a natural tunnel formed by aa 
old glacier-stream (sometimes barred by the ice) , and reach the glacier 
opposite the Schlupf. We may return by the same route; or we may cross 
the glacier and the Enge at the N.W. angle of the Wetterhorn, and reach 
the Great Scheidegg or regain the Hotel Wetterhorn by a dizzy path 
(2V2-3 hrs. in all). 

The'Eisboden (4400'), a beautiful, shady pasture, 20 min. E. of the Hot. 
Wetterhorn , and close to the base of the Wetterhorn , affords a noble 
survey of the glacier, Mettenberg, Schreckhorner, and Grindelwald Valley. 

To the Lower Glacier (3543' at the base), which is much larger 
than the upper, a bridle-path descends to the right by the church 
and crosses the Liitschine, and then ascends to the right through 
underwood and over debris. (The path to the left leads to the Bar- 
egg; see p. 162.) The road forks a few min. farther on beside a 
refreshment-stall; we follow the right branch. The retrogression of 
the glacier has exposed to view an interesting Gorge of the Liitschine, 
which has been rendered accessible by means of wooden galleries 
and steps (1/2 hr. from Grindelwald ; 50 c). A bridle-path ascends 
the left lateral moraine to the (1/2 hr.) upper part of the glacier, 
where there is an artificial Ice Grotto (50 c). Interesting excursion 
thence across the crevassed glacier to the Baregg (guides with rope 
and ice-axe necessary). If we turn to the left at the above mention- 
ed refreshment-booth and ascend the moraine, we reach (15 min.) 
a wooden bridge, affording an interesting view of the gorge (50 c), 
and in 10 min. more a hut whence another artificial Ice Grotto is 
accessible (50 c). From this point we may also ascend direct to 
the Baregg path (p. 162). — In years when ice is scarce, this 
glacier serves as an ice-quarry, the blocks being carried away on 
sledges and by a tramway. — In returning from the gorge of the 

Baedekeb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. H 12 



162 Route 47. GRINDKLWALD. Bernese 

Lutschine we may follow the tramway and cross the lower bridge at 
the W. end of the village. 

A visit to the lower *Ei3meer ('sea of ice'), the large basin of 
n^v^ in which the glacier accumulates before it descends to the 
valley, is interesting. A narrow path (guide necessary for the 
inexperienced ; to Raregg 7, Zasenberg 10 fr. ; horse to a point 
1/2 lir- below Biiregg 10 fr., not advisable) ascends the slope to the 
left to the (2 hrs.) small Jnn on the Bdregg (5412'; dear), com- 
manding a line survey of the glacier, to which a steep flight of wooden 
steps descends. (Fee of 1 fr. for the use of the path, whether the 
glacier itself is visited or not.) 

Glacier Expedition. The following easy walk will make the trav- 
eller more familiar with this icy region. We cross (1 hr., with guide) the 
Eismeer to the stone chalet of ZSsenberg (6050'), surrounded by pastures, 
and occupied by .shepherds in summer. Vegetation soon disappears. <>n 
every side tower huge and wild masses of ice, and the view is bounded 
by tlie in)po,sing summits of the Eiger, Schreckhorner, Fiescherhiirner, etc. 
If the traveller does not go beyond the middle of the Eismeer (sufficiently 
far), the whole excursion may easily be accomplished from Grindelwald 
and back in 5 hrs. — The ascent of the ' Zdsenberghorn (7687'; magnificent 
survey of the glaciers) takes V/2 hr. from the Zasenberg (guide 12 fr.). 
— The Eigerhohle, a grotto visible from the Zasenberg (2 hrs.; fatiguing; 
with guide) may also be visited. — Lastly, an interesting trip may be 
made from the Baregg to the Zdseiiherghorn, Fiescherjirn, and Eigerhohle, 
and back by the Kalli (p. 163; 5-6 hrs.). 

The 'Hannlichen (7(394') is ascended from Grindelwald without diffi- 
culty in 4 hrs. (horse 15 fr. ; guide 10 fr., unnecessary). Our path diverges 
to the right from the Little Scheidegg path, after the Lutschine is crossed, 
and ascends by the Itramcn Alp. Admirable panorama , from the Uri- 
Bothstock and Titlis to the Bliimlisalp. About 20 min. below the summit, 
on the depression between the Mannlichen and Tschuggen (p. 160). is the 
small 'lUtel Grindelwald - Rigi (R., L., & A. 3V2-4, B. IV2, D. 4 fr.). — 
From the Little Scheidegg (p. 159) we may ascend the Mannlichen by 
skirting the E. slope of the Tschuggen (21/2-3 hrs.; with guide). From 
AVengen (p. 158) a steep path ascends in 2'/2 hrs. 

'The Mettenberg (Mitlelberg, 10,197') is recommended to mountaineers 
(laborious, 6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr., from Baregg 12 fr.). Most imposing view of 
the Schreckhorn, rising in the immediate vicinity, and of the Finsteraarhorn; 
also a striking survey of the Eismeer and the valley of Grindelwald. 

A.scent of the Jungfrau . p. 159; Finstevaarhorn . p. 174; Wetterhorn, 
p. 165. — Grosa-Schreckhorn (13,386'; from the Schwarzegg-JJiitle 7-8 hrs.; 
guide KXJfr.), ascended for the first lime by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1S61, 
very difficult. — Monch (13.465'; first scaled by Dr. Porges of Vienna in 
1857), ascended either from the Monch- Hiitte \iy the Monch joch (p. 163), 
or from the Gtiggi-HiiUc (p. 159) by the Oiiggi Glacier and the Jnngfrau- 
joch in 8-9 hrs. (guide 80 fr.). — Eiger (13.042'; first ascended by Mr. Ch. 
Harrington in 1858), from the Wcngernal|) by the Eiger Glacier and up 
the W. arete, 9-10 hrs. (guide 70fr.j. All these are for thorough adepts only. 

Passes. To the Grimsel Hospice over the 'Strahlegg (10,994' ; 14 hrs.; 
two guides, 40 fr. each), a grand, but toilsome route. The night is passed 
at the liciregg (see above), or better in the Schwarzegg-Biitte (8200') by 
the upper Eismeer, 5 hrs. from Grindelwald. Thence a steep ascent over 
ice and rock to the (3 hrs.) pass, lying between the Gross-Lauteraarhorn 
and the Strablegghorner; descent over the Strahleggflrn and ihc Fiiisteraar 
and Unteraar Glaciers to the (3 hrs.) Pavilion Dollfus (p. 174), and the 
(3 hrs.) Grimsel Hospice (p. 173). In the reverse direction (especially if a 
night be spent in the Pav. Dollfus) the route is less trying and more in- 
teresting. — Finsteraarjoch (11,024'; 15-10 hrs.; guides 40' fr. each), between 
the Strablegghorner and the Agassizhorn, very trying, with splendid views 



Oherland. FAULHORN. 48. Route. 163 

of the Finsteraarhorn, etc. — lauteraar-Sattel (10,354'; 16-17 hrs.; guides 
40 fr. each), between the Schreckhorner and the Berglistock, a fatiguing 
pass, but without serious difficulty to proficients. The night is spent in 
the Wetterhorn-Hiiite (p. 165}; thence we ascend the Obere Grindelwald- 
Firn in 6-6 hrs. to the pass , which affords a grand survey of the Gross- 
Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn, etc. ; we then descend a steep rocky slope to 
the Lauteraarfirii (crossing a wide 'Bergschrund'' or cliasin) and the (3 hrs.) 
Pav. Dollfus (p. 174). — Over the Bergli-Joch to the Urhachthal, see p. 172. 
Passes from Orindelwald to the Egoishorn Tp- 304), for experts 
only, with able guides. The Jungfraujoch (11,089'; guides 60 fr. each), 
between the .lungfrau and Jlonch , leading from the Wengernalp to the 
Eggishorn Hotel in I6V2 hrs., is very difficult and trying. A night is 
spent in the Guggi-HUite (p. 159), and the Guggi Glacier is then ascended. 
— The passage of the Koncbjoch (11,910'; guides 60 fr. eacli), 15 hrs. 
from Grindelwald to the hotel, also very difficult, is facilitated by spend- 
ing a night in the Monch-Hiitte (see below), or when the journey is made in 
the reverse direction, in the Concordia- Iliitte (p. 304). This is comparatively 
the easiest and finest of these glacier expeditions. From the Biiregg we 
cross the lower Eismeer to the opposite moraine, and ascend the precipitous 
KaUi for 272 hrs. ; then cross the much crevassed Grindelwald- Fiescher 
Glacier to the (6'/2-7 hrs. from Grindelwald) Monch-IIiitte on the Bergli 
(9745'), commanding a grand though not extensive view of the Fiescher- 
wand, Schreckhorner, Wetterhorn, etc. From the hut a steep climb of 
2 hrs. over rock and glacier to the (2 hrs.) Unter-Monchjoch (11,910'), 
between the Miinch and Fieschergrat; thence either to the right over the 
Oher-Afonchjoch (11,930'), between the Monch and Trugberg, to the Jung- 
fraiifirn (p. 159) and down to the Great Aletsch Glacier and (5-6 hrs.) Eg- 
gishorn Hotel; or to the left, over the vast Ewigschncefeld to the Aletsch 
Glacier (the two routes unite at the Concordia Hut). — The Eigerjoch 
(11,874'), between the Eiger and Jlonch, 22 hrs. from the Wengernalp to 
the Eggishorn, a night being spent in the Guggi-Hutte (see p. 159), whence 
the Eiger (ilacier is ascended, is verv difficult. — The Fieseherjoch or 
Ochsenjoch (about 11,700'), E. of the Kleine Fiescherhorn, or Oc/is (12,812'), 
22 hrs. from Grindelwald to the Eggishorn , is very toilsome and lacks 
interest. 

48. The Faulhorn. 

Comp. Map, p. ISO. 

Ascent of the Faulhorn from Grindelwald 43/4 (descent 3) hrs. ; from 
the Faulhorn to the Great Scheidegg 3 (ascent 4) hrs. ; from the Scheidegg to 
Grindelwald 2 (ascent 3) hrs. — Ascent of the Faulhorn from Interlaken by 
the Scheinige Platte (p. 149) 8 hrs.; to the Platte 4 hrs. (descent 272), thence 
to the Faulhorn 4 (descent 3) hrs. — Giiide (10 fr. from Grindelwald and 
back ; if a night be spent at the top, 13 fr.) unnecessary. Chair-carriers 6 fr. 
each ; if they pass the night on the top, 12 fr. (three generally suffice ; a 
bargain should be made beforehand). Horse from Grindelwald and back 17 
(or with one night out, 25) fr. ; to the top and back by the Great Scheid- 
egg 30, with descent to Meiringen 35 fr. ; from Interlaken by the Scheinige 
Platte to the Faulhorn and back 35, with descent by Grindelwald 45 fr. ; 
from Meiringen to the Faulhorn 25 fr. — Inn on the summit (good but 
dear, bed 5, L. & A. 2, B. 2 fr.). 

The *raulhorn (8803'), rising between the Lake of Brienz and 
the valley of Grindelwald, and composed of black, friable, calcareous 
schist (the name being probably derived from faul., 'rotten'), is a 
very favourite point of view, as it commands an admirable survey 
of the giants of the Bernese Oberland (see Panorama). To the N., 
at our feet, lies the Lake of Brienz, with its surrounding mountains, 
from the Augstmatthorn to the Rothhorn ; part of the Lake of Thun, 
with the Niesen and Stockhorn, is also visible; to the N.E. are 

11* 



164 Route -is. FAULHORN. Bernese 

parts of the Lakes of Lucerne and Zug, with Pilatus and the Rigi ; 
then the Lakes of Morat and Neuchatel. The prospect does not, 
however, embrace the hill -country of N. Switzerland, which so 
greatly enhances the beauty of the view from the Iligi. 

The Path from Guin»klwald to the Faulhorn ( 43/4hrs.)leads 
for 3/4 hr. through enclosed meadows and past detached houses. From 
the Biir Hotel we cross the road, pass a house on the right, and 
after 50 paces pass through a gate. (Those who leave the Bar by 
the yard-gate to the right should note that beyond the road they 
follow the lower path to the left.) After 5 min., to the right; 
10 min., at a cross-way, straight on; 5 min., to the right; 2 min., 
to the left past a cottage; then generally towards the E. The 
footpath soon unites with the bridle-path; V2 li'-) agate, then a 
wood, which we quit in 10 min. ; 1/4 ^""-i ^'^^ Hertenbi'M (5157'), a 
large pasture with several chalets, in the middle of which the path 
turns sharply to the left, ascending past a little cabaret into 
(10 min.) wood; 10 min., to the right, past a small pond; 20 min., 
the path divides for persons descending (who here keep to the left) ; 
a little farther, a gate ; 25 min., Waldspitz (6200'; Hot.-Pens. Alpen- 
rose, well spoken of), with a splendid view. This point is nearly half- 
way, the other half is less steep. To the left (20 min.) a pretty fall 
of the Miihlibach , which we cross near the chalets of the Bach- 
Alp (6496'). Good drinking-water issues abundantly from the rock, 
10 min. farther. Then a moderate ascent of 2/4 hr. to the Bachalp- 
See (7428'), in a stony basin, bounded on the left by the Rothihorn 
(9052') and Simelihorn (9030'), and on the right by the Ritzengrdtli 
(8282'). (By the stone hut the path diverges to the left for travel- 
lers descending to the Scheidegg, see below.) The top of the Faul- 
horn is now in view. The path , Indicated by stakes for guidance 
in fog or snow, ascends rapidly for nearly 1 hr. over crumbling slate 
and limestone. We pass another stone hut, cross the pastures at 
the foot of the peak, and reach the top by a zigzag path in ^4 hr. 
more. The Inn (see above) lies on the S. side, 35' below the summit. 

The Path fuom Gkindklwald to the Faulhokn by the Bussalp is 
recommended for the return-route to Grindelwald (guide necessary). Ad- 
mirable view from the '■Bunf (7247'), which of itself merits a visit from 
Grindelwald (21/2 hrs.). 

The Path from the Faulhorn to thb Scheidegg (3 hrs.) di- 
verges to the left from the Grindelwald path, near the (3/4 hr.) hut on 
the Bachalp-See, traverses the stony slopes of the Ritzengrdtli, and 
keeps nearly the same level for some distance; ^/o^v.^a, gate between 
the Bach-Alp and the Widderfeld-Alp ; 5 min. farther, to the left, 
not down the bed of the brook ; 10 min., the 'First', a ridge affording 
a magnificent view of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, 
Grlndelwald-Fiescherhomcr, with their glacier, the Eiger, and the 
valley of Grindelwald ; 8 min., we keep to the left and cross the 
brook ; 7 min., we descend to the left over black, crumbling slate, 



Irrhi 
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Oberland. WETTERHORN. 49. Route. 165 

and reach a gate where the Grindelalp begins. The path is now lost 
at places , but soon becomes more distinct , the direction being 
slightly to the left of the Wetterhorn ; 1/4 ^^- > * small brook is 
crossed, and the path Is now well defined ; 5 min., a brook ; 10 min., 
a natural bridge over the Bergelbach; 5 min., the Obere Grindelalp 
(6410'), with a spring; ^/^ixt., a gate, but we turn to the right 
on this side of the enclosure, pass through the next gate (12 min.), 
and make for the top of a hill; 8 min., Scheidegg Inn. 

In ascending from the Scheidegg, be careful not to turn to the left at 
the bridge over the Bergelbach; farther on, where the path is lost on the 
pastures, again avoid turning to the left, follow a direction parallel with 
a long enclosure lying a little to the left, and make for the slope of the 
mountain, at the foot of which the path is regained. 

The view from the Faulhorn is partially intercepted by the neigh- 
bouring group of the Simelihorn (9030') and the Rothihorn (9052') , rising 
between the Finsteraarhorn and the Schreckhorn, and, though not without 
picturesque effect , concealing part of the Alpine chain , the valley of 
Orindelwald , and the two glacier-tongues. The latter, from which the 
magnificent view is uninterrupted, is easily ascended from the Bachalp-See 
in IV2 hr. (guide advisable). 

The view is still grander and more extensive from the Schwarzhorn 
(9613'), which, with the Wildgerst (9488'), intercepts the view from the Faul- 
horn on the E. side. (The lakes of Lungern, Sarnen, Alpnach, and Kiisnacht 
are visible hence , all lying in the same line.) The ascent is made from 
the Great Scheidegg by the Grindelalp and the Krinnenboden in S'/z-i hrs.; 
or from Rosenlaui by the upper Breitenboden-Alp (6560') , to which there 
is a bridle-path, and the little Blaue Gletscher, in 5 hrs.; or from Axalp 
(p. 171) in 4-5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.). 

From the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhorn, see p. 150. In descend- 
ing from the Faulhorn, the path is easily found if we are shown the 
beginning of it and follow the direction indicated by heaps of stones. The 
only doubtful point is 1 hr. beyond the Sdgisthal-See (p. 150), or 10 min. 
beyond the top of the ridge bounding the Sagisthal on theW., where we 
keep to the right at the same level, instead of descending to the left. 

Ascent of the Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 6 hrs., see p. 170. 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosen- 
laui. Falls of the Eeichenbach. 

Comp. Map., p. 160. 

6^4 brs. : From Grindelwald to the Great Scheidegg 3 (descent 2) hrs., 
from the Scheidegg to Rosenlaui I3/4 (ascent 2'/2) hrs. , from Rosenlaui to 
Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hours. Guide (unnecessary) 12 fr. ; by the Faul- 
horn and Scheidegg 21 fr. ; horse 25 fr. ; from Meiringen to Rosenlaui 12, 
Scheidegg 15 fr. — Riding practicable the whole way, but the Reichen- 
bach Falls must be visited on foot. 

The path (footpath to the right, 1 min. beyond Grindelwald 
church) ascends gradually through rich pastures, passing the (1 hr.) 
*H6tel Wetterhorn (4042'; path to the Upper Grindelwald Glacier, 
p. 161). In the foreground towers the magnificent and almost per- 
pendicular *Wetterhom (12,150'), with its three peaks. 

The \V. peak, the Vordere Wetterhorn or Hasli-Jungfrau (12,150'), and 
the E. peak {Rosenhorn , 12,110') were first ascended in 1844, and the 
Mittelhorn (12,165') the following year. The ascent has often been made 
since, and is free from serious difficulty, though requiring perseverance 
and a steady head (guides 60 fr. each). The night is spent in the ^Yetter- 
horn Hut (7695'), above the aieckxtein (7520'), on the arete descending from 



1 GG Route 49. GREAT SCHEIDEGG. Bernese 

the Wetterhorn to the Upper Grindelwald Glacier, 4Vz hrs. from Grindel- 
wald. Thence over the Krinnen- Firn and the Sdtteli to the W. peak 
5-6 hrs. — Descent to the Dossen Hut (and Rosenlaui or Innertkirchen), 
see pp. 167. 172. — From the Wetterhorn Hut over (he Beryli-Joch to 
the Urbachtfial, see p. 172. From the Berglistock (12,000'), to the right of 
the Berglijnch (4V2-5 hrs. from the club-hut), a superb view of the Schreck- 
horner, Wetterhorner, etc. 

Avalanches descend in spring from the Wetterhorn in four 
different directions, the snow sometimes extending to the path at 
places and remaining unmelted in summer. As travellers pass the 
( l'/2 hr.) Obere Lauchbuhl-Hiitte (5900'), and at various other points 
of the way, they are greeted with a blast of the Alpine horn, an in- 
strument of bark or wood, 6-8' long, the not unpleasing notes of 
which are echoed a few seconds later by the precipices of the Wetter- 
horn. A shot will also be fired for a fee of 50 c. 

The ('/2 hr-) Great Scheidegg or Hasli-Scheidegg (6430'; Inn, 
mediocre, R. & L. 3Y2) D. 3'/.2 fr. ; horse to the Faulhorn, 4 hrs., 
12 fr.), also called the Eselsrucken, a ridge 1 M. long and only a 
few paces broad, commands a striking view towards the W. The 
smiling valley of Grindelwald, bounded on the S.W. by the pastures 
and woods of the Little Scheidegg, contrasts picturesquely with the 
bare precipices of the Wetterhorn, which tower above us to a giddy 
height. To the S.W. of the Wetterhorn are the Mettenberg, Fie- 
schergrat, Monch, Eiger, and lastly the Tschingelgrat , Gspalten- 
horn, and Bliimlisalp. Towards the N. the view is intercepted by 
the sombre Schwarzhorn and other peaks of the Faulhorn chain. 
High up on the right, between the Wetterhorn and Wellborn, lies 
the Schwarzwald Glacier, which has greatly decreased of late. 

Travellers from Jleiringen who do not wish to ascend the Faulhorn 
should at least follow the Faulhorn path as far as (V2 hr.) the Obere Grin- 
delalp (p. 165), in order to obtain a grand view of the Schreckhorn , the 
Upper Grindelwald Glacier, and the Fieschergrat. From the Grindelalp 
the direct descent to Grindelwald (beyond the well follow the Faulhorn 
path for 5 min. more, then turn to left) is not longer than from the Schei- 
degg. — Schwarzhorn^ see p. 165. 

Immediately below the Scheidegg we turn to the left and soon 
enter a wood. On the right are the precipices of the Wellhori), 
with the Schwarzwald Glacier. This part of the route, passing 
several chalets, is attractive and varied. We next reach (1 hr.) the 
Pension zum Schwarzwaldgletsoiter (R., L., & A. 21/4, D. 2-3, S. 
l'/.2-2fr.; well spoken of), finely situated ; then cross the Gems- 
bach, and on the Breitenboden Alp (4650') reach the Reichenbach, 
where the path divides. The path to the left, affording glimpses 
of the Rosenlaui Glacier, follows the left bank of the Reichenbach, 
and leads in i/o hr. to the Gschwandenmad Alp (p. 167); that to the 
right ('/4 hr. longer) crosses the Reichenbach, which forms a tine 
cascade near Rosenlaui, and leads on the right bank to the (20 min.) 
Baths of Rosenlaui (4363' ; *Hot. <$rens., R., L., & A. 31/2, !>• i^/2, 
pens. 8 fr. ; Alpine carved wood at Ahplanalj) i). 

Before the Kaths are reached, at the imint where the forest is quitted, 
a path to the right leads to the Rosenlaui Glacier, imbedded between 



Oberland. REICHENBACH FALLS. 49. Route. 1 G7 

the Wellhorn (10,486') and the Engelhorn (9133'), and famed for the beauty 
and purity of its ice. Of late years it has receded so much that an 
ascent of 1V2-2 hrs. , very rough towards the end, must be made in ordei 
to obtain a survey of it; but the grand rock-scenery will in itself repay 
the fatigue. 

Above Rosenlaui lies the Dossen-Hiltte (about 8850'; 6 hrs.), grandly 
situated, an interesting point for good mountaineers (reached also from Im- 
Hof through the Urbachihal in 8 hrs., see p. 172). This is the starting-point 
for the Dossenhovn (10,303'; 1 hr.). the Renfenhorn (10,T77'; 2'/2 hrs.), the 
Hangend-GUtscherhovn (10,810'; 4 hrs.), and above all for the Wettevhorn 
(12,149'; 4 hrs.). Descent from the Wetterhorn to the (3' '2 hrs.) Wetterhorn 
Hut and (3'/2 hrs.) Grindelwald, see p. 165. — From the Dossen Hut we 
may cross the WeUerUmmi (10,443'), the Gaiili Glacier, and the Gauli Pass 
(10,260') to the Gri7nsel, 10 hrs., fatiguing; with this route the ascent of the 
Eicigschneehvrn is easily combined (p. 174). 

The path to Melringen now follows the Reichenbach. It leads 
at lirst through underwood , and then traverses the *Gschwanden- 
mad Alp, a beautiful pasture, enclosed by forest, a favourite resort 
of artists. (The first bridge must not be crossed; in the reverse 
direction, we keep to the river, avoiding the shortcut to Schwarz- 
wald, p. 166.) The bare Engelhorner, the grand Rosenlaui Glacier 
between the Dossenhorn and the Wellhorn, and the snow-clad cone 
of the Wetterhorn to the right, together with the beautiful fore- 
ground, present a picture unsurpassed in Switzerland, and most 
striking when approached from Meiringen. 

At the end of the Gschwandenmad Alp, 25min. from the Baths, 
the Reichenbach is crossed for the last time. Following the right 
bank, the path passes (1/4 hr.) a saw-mill and auberge , and soon 
descends rapidly. Pleasant view of the Ilasli-Thal and the moun- 
tains surrounding the Briinig and Susten. On the brink of the 
slope, 1 hr. from Rosenlaui, is the small inn Zur Zwirgi (3202'}. A 
path diverges here to the left to a narrow gorge of the brawling 
Reichenbach, spanned by a wooden bridge (30 c; not worth visit- 
ing). Farther on (omin.), another path, descending in steps, 
diverges to the left from the bridle-path to the *Falls of the Reichen- 
bach. It leads at first through wood , and then to the left across a 
meadow, to a hut (adm. ^/.yit.}, the best point for seeing the Upper 
Fall with its beautiful jets. In the morning the sun shines into 
the gorge and forms innumerable rainbows. The Central Fall (Kessel- 
fall) is guarded by another hut (25c.). At the foot of the hill is 
the *H6tel Reichenbach (see below), from which a path leads to the 
(I/4 hr.) Lower Fall (illumination every evening in summer). From 
the hotel we cross the Williyenbrilcke to (1/4 hr.) Meiringen. 

The falls are seen to the best advantage in the reverse direction, 
ascending to the left by the Hot. Keichenbach, and reaching the highest 
fall in 34 hr. from Meiringen. Farther on, as Rosenlaui is approached, 
the Wetterhorn and the Wellhorn form a strikingly beautiful background. 

Travellers from Rosenlaui to Im-Hof (the Grimsel, Engstlenalp, etc.), 
may, omitting the Falls of the Reichenbach aud Jleiringon , save nearly 
an hour by following the bridle-path for 5 min. beyond the path to the 
falls, and then turning to the right by a footpath to the village of (25 min.) 
GeisthoU (2628'), hidden among fruit-trees. Here we ascend the pastures, 
and then rapidly descend the Kiichet (p. 171) to (40 min.) Im-Hof (p. 171). 



168 Route 49. MEIRINGEN. Bernese 

Meiringen. — "Hotel du Sauvagk (Zum Wildenmann), with garden, 
high charges, R., L., & A. from 4'/2, D. 5 fr. •, "Hotel-Pension Reichen- 
BACH, with the 'dependance' Des Alpes on the other side of the Aare, R., 
L., & A. 3V2 (in the dependance 2), D. 4fr.; omn. at the station; "Vic- 
toria, Meikingekhoi', both near the station; "Coukonne, R. & A. from 3, D. 
S'/zfr. -, "Ours, R., h-, & A. 2, B. 1, D. 2V2, pens. 5 fr. ; Pens, zum Stein, 
moderate; Pens. Michel (brewery). — English Church Service in the Hot. 
du Sauvage. — Guides: Melchior, Jakob, Jo/i., and Peter Anderegg, Joh. and 
Kaspar v. Bergen, Kaspar and Melchior Blatter, Joh. Tdnnler, Kaspar Moor, 
Kaspar Maiirer, Joh. and Andr. Jaun, Franz Glarner, Melchior Zenger, etc. 

Meiringen [1968'; pop. 2809), the chief village of the Haslithal, 
lies on the right bank of the Aare, in a level valley 3 M. in width, 
surrounded by wooded mountains, above which rise several snowy 
peaks. The Muhlehach, Alpbach , and Dorfhach, descending from 
the Hasiiberg at the back of the village, form considerable waterfalls 
(illuminated every evening in summer). They often overflow their 
banks, and cover the whole district with rocks, mud, and the slaty 
debris of the Hasiiberg. In order to afford a better outlet for these 
torrents the Aare below Meiringen has been converted into a canal, 
on both sides of which there are still extensive traces of their 
devastations. 

The Hasli-Thal (or Hasli im Weissland) is divided by the Kirchel (p. 171) 
into the Untere and Obere Hasli. The inhabitants are generally of a slight, 
but strong and active frame, and are remarkable for their picturesque 
costume and pure dialect. According to tradition, they are of Swedish or 
Frisian descent, and the opinions of several modern Swedish savants in 
favour of this theory are recorded in a book kept at Meiringen. 

"Gorge of the Aare (Aareschlucht). A road diverges lo the left, 
beyond the (V2 M.) Willigenbriicke (see p. 167), on the left bank of the 
Aare, and reaches ('/a M.) a small restaurant at the entrance to the wild 
and romantic rocky gorge, which affords passage to the Aare through the 
Kirchet (p. 171). The gorge was formerly only passable by means of a 
raft or boat when the river was very low, hut a path (3' wide; 1550 yds. 
long) has now been constructed at a cost of 1800^., partly hewn in the 
rock, partly supported on wooden galleries (adm. 1 fr ). The best time 
to visit this higiily interesting ravine is 9-11 a.m. jAfter a walk of about 
20 min. we reach the end of the path descending from the Kirchet (p. 171) 
to the 'Finstere Schlauche% by which we may return or proceed to 
Jm-Hof. 

On the Hasiiberg, 3/4 hr. to the N. of Meiringen, is the */f(3<. Pens. 
Alpbach (5Vj-8 fr.), with a charming view, and IV2 hr. farther (good path 
by Golderen and Wasserwendi) lies the village of Hohflnh (3443'; "Fran 
Willy's Pension, unpretending), another fine point of view. (Hohfluh may 
also he reached direct from Meiringen by Vnterfluh in I'/a hr.) From this 
point the "Ilohenstollen (8150'; .splendid view) may be ascended by the 
Balisa'p in 4 hrs. (with guide; from the Hot. Alpbach 7 fr.), or from Mei- 
ringen direct, by the Mdgisalp and the Faulenberg in 5 hrs. Descent to 
Melchsee- Fruit, see p. 124. — To the Briinig Pass see p. 123. 

From Meiringen by the Briinig Raihvay to Lucerne, see R. 35. 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz. 

Camp. Maps, pp. Ii4, 160. 

From Meiringen to Brienz (8 M.) Railway in 25 min. (fares 2 fr. Ul^l, i fr. 
95, 80 c). — From Brienz (station) to Biinigen Steamboat 4 times daily in 
1 hr., fare 2 or 1 fr. ; luggage additional , 50 c. for each box. From Bii- 
nigen to Interlaken Railway (coiup. p. 143) in 12 min., fare 80 c. or 40c. 



Oberland. BRIENZ. 60. Route. 1 G9 

— Travellers going to a hotel at the E. end of the Hoheweg may alight 
at the ZoUhaus station (comp. p. 170). Through-tickets to Interlaken 
may be obtained at Lucerne and Meiringen, and on board the steamers. 

The railway skirts the right bank of the Aare. The beautiful 
Oltschibach and other cascades fall from the precipices on the left. 
Beyond (5 M.) Brienzwyler (Hotel Balmhof), where it crosses the 
Briinig road, it skirts the geologically interesting Ballenberg (23Sb'\ 
then bends to the right and follows the shore of the Lake of Brienz, 
via Kienholz, to — 

8 M. Brienz-Tracht (pop. 2535; Weisses Kreuz, with garden, 
R., L., & A. 3, B. 11/2 fr. ; Bar, with garden on the lake, well spoken 
of; Tell, rustic), a considerable place, 11/2 M. in length, pleasantly 
situated on the Lake of Brienz at the foot of the Brlenzer Grat, It 
is noted for its woodcarving , which employs about 600 persons 
(Fliick's depot, etc.). 

The Kdnzli, 1/4 hr. above the Kreuz, and the Churchyard alTord a fine 
view of the lake, the Faulhorn, the fall of the Oltschibach, the Susten- 
horner, etc., and to the IJ. the falls of the Miihlhach (often dry in summer). 

The Brlenzer Rothhom (7713'; 5 hrs.; bridle-path for the first 4 hrs.; 
guide, 5 fr., unnecessary; horse 15-20 fr.), the highest peak of the Brlenzer 
Grat, is a famous point of view. Inn, 1/4 ^J"- from the top, closed. The 
path ascends rapidly on the bank of the Trachtbach to the (2 hrs.) chalets 
of the Hausstadt (5383') ; then for 1 hr. on the gentle slope of the Planalp, 
watered by the Miihlbach, and lastly in zigzags to the (2 hrs.) top, on which 
stands the boundary-stone of the cantons of Bern, Lucerne, and Unter- 
walden. The view embraces the chain of the Bernese Oberland, with the 
Lake of Brienz in the foreground ; a glimpse of the Lake of Thun beyond 
Interlaken ; the Haslithal from Meiringen nearly to the Grimsel ; on the 
other side the small Ey-See, the Lake of Sarnen, a considerable part of 
the Lake of Lucerne with the Rigi , part of the Lake of Zug, a long strip 
of the Lake of Neuchatel, and even the Lake of Constance. — Descent by 
the Ey-See to Sbrenberg in the Kleine Emmenthal, and (6 hrs.) Schiipf- 
heiin, see p. 128. 

The Lake of Brienz (1857'), 88/4 M. long, and IV4-IV2M. wide, 
500' deep near the Giessbach, and 859' near Oberried, lies 20' 
higher than the Lake of Thun, with which it is supposed to have 
been once united (p. 146). It is enclosed by lofty wooded rocks and 
mountains. To the S.E. in the background are the snow-clad Sus- 
tenhorner, to the right the Thierberge. The steamboat starts near 
the station, touches at (5 min.) the village of Brienz, and then 
crosses the lake to the (10 min.) Giessbach (see p. 170). The lowest 
waterfall only (see p. 170) is visible from the steamer; above it is 
the hotel, and to the right of the landing-place is the tramway sta- 
tion. Farther along the precipitous S. bank is the small wooded 
Schnecken-Insel, with its little chapel , and near it, on the bank, 
lies the pretty village of Iseltwald (*P€ns. Seehucht, 1 4 M. to the 
W., 4-6 fr. ; Zum Strand). The steamer then crosses to Oberried 
and Niederried, charmingly situated among fruit-trees at the foot of 
the Augstmatthorn (p. 151). Farther on, to the N., rise the ruined 
castle of Ringgenberg on a height, with the church of that name, 
surrounded by underwood and orchards, and the old tower of the 
Church of Goldswyl, very picturesquely placed on an isolated hill. 



170 Routed]. GIESSRACH. Bernei^e 

On the opposite bank is the influx of the IJilschme, which descends 
from the valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen. The lake gra- 
dually contracts to a river, which is named the Aare and after- 
wards falls into the Lake of Thun. The steamer stops at Bonigen 
(p. 146 ; Restaur. Miihlemann), the terminus of the B'odeli Railway 
(p. 145), which conveys travellers in 12 min. to Interlaken. The 
station of (1^/4 M.) ZoUhaus is at the E. end of the Hoheweg. 
3 M. Interlaken, see p. 146. 
The Road from Bkienz to Interlaken (12 M. ; one-horse carr. 
8-10 fr.) , on the N. bank of the lake, passes through (I1/2 M.) Ebligen, (2 M.) 
Oberried, and (3 31.) Niederried ; then, high above the lake, it traverses a 
rocky tract to (2'/-.! M.) Ringgenberg^ passes the small Faulensee (p. 149), at 
the base of the hill with the old church - tower , and leads by Gohlswyl 
(beautiful views) to the upper Aare bridge at (3 M.) Interlaken. 

51. The Giessbach. 

Hotels. Hotel -Pension Giessbaoh, a large new building, with a 
restaurant on the ground-floor and a dependauce (the old hotel), R., L., 
& A. from 5-6, B. IV2, D. 4'/2-5, pens, from 10 fr.; also whey and well- 
equipped water-cure, with electric baths etc. English Church Service, 
Post and Telegraph Office, and Railway Ticket Office for the Briinig and 
Thun & Berne railways at the hotel. — 'Hotel Beau Site, '/4 M. higher, 
less pretentious, R., L., A., S., & B. 6, 1). 3, pens. G fr. — Carved wood 
sold by C. Michel (formerly Kehrli). 

'lilumination of the Falls , with Bengal lights , every evening from 
1st June till 30th September (inmates of the hotel 1 fr. each, for the first 
evening only ; other persons IV2 fr.). 

Steamboat to Bonigen in 50, to Brienz in 10 min., see p. 168. On 
Saturdays at 8 p.m. a train leaves Interlaken for Bonigen, in connection 
with a steamer to the Giessbach, returning after the illumination. 

Tramway (300' above the lake) from the landing-place (small restau- 
rant) to the hotel (380' long; gradient 28V2 : 100) in 6 min. (there and 
back 1 fr. ; luggage under 50 lbs. 50 c. , over 50 lbs. 1 fr. ; articles in the 
hand free). The two cars, holding 46 passengers each, and provided with 
powerful brakes, are connected by a wire cable, running round a wheel at 
the top of the hill. The one car ascends, while the other descends, the 
gravitation of the latter, weighted with water, forming the motive power. 
The rails are 1 metre (39 in.) apart, and have a toothed rail between them 
as on the Rigi line (rack-and-pinion system). 

The *Giessl)ach, one of the prettiest and most popular spots in 
the Bernese Oberland, was first rendered accessible in 1818 by the 
school-master Kehrli (d. 1854). The stream, which is copious at 
all seasons, rises on the N. slope of the Schwarzhorn (p. 165), and 
on its way to the lake of Brienz forms a series of seven cascades 
falling from rock to rock , the highest being 1148' above the lake, 
and framed in dark green foliage. The terrace in front of the 
new hotel affords a complete view. The falls are crossed by three 
bridges. Paths ascend on both banks to the (1/4 hr.) second bridge, 
from which to the third (I/2 hr.) there is a path on the right bank 
only. A wooden gallery enables visitors to pass hehind the second 
fall. Those who have time should ascend to the Highest Fall, where 
the Giessbach , issuing from a sombre ravine, is precipitated under 
the bridge into an abyss, 190' in depth. (_ Rest view from a pro- 



Oherland. IM-HOF. 6'2. Route. 171 

jeeting rock to the right of tlie bridge.) Above the highest bridge 
there is no attraction. About noon rainbows are formed in the falls. 

The *Rauft (2460'), a group of wooded rocks on the N. side of 
the valley, rising abruptly 600' above the lake, commands a view 
of the Lake of Brienz, the mouth of the Aare , and the alluvial dis- 
trict of Brienzwyler ; opposite are the Brienzer Grat and the Brienzer 
Rothhorn (p. 169); then, beyond Interlaken, part of the Lake of 
Thun, overshadowed by the pyramid of the Niesen. A good path 
leads from the back of the new hotel to the pavilion on the top in 
20 min. ; another from the old hotel in 1/4 hr. 

Pleasant walk to the Alpine hamlet of Enge, situated among beautiful 
pastures. Pretty view at the point ('/2 hr.) where the path reaches the 
lake. We then descend past the Ndseli to the Aare Bridge and the Mei- 
ringen and Brienz road (p. 168). — About 3 hrs. above the Giessbach lies 
the Axalp (5580') a liealth-resort with an unpretending 'Inn, whence the 
Schwanhorn (9610') may be ascended by the Blatie Gletscher in 4-5 hrs. 
(with guide; comp. p. 163). — About '/^ hr. to the E. of Axalp is the 
Hinterbuvg-See (5000') , charmingly situated in wood at the base of the 
Oltschikopf (21/2 hrs. from the Giessbach). 

Ascent OF the Faclhoen (p. 163)rE05i the Giessbach, 6 hrs. (guide 6 fr.), 
fatiguing at places, especially on the Bdttenalp, which is exposed to the 
morning sun. To the S. of the Schwabhorn this path joins the bridle-path 
from the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhorn (p. 150). 

From the Giessbach to Interlaken (3'/2 hrs.). A good, well-shaded 
path, crossing the first bridge over the falls, and bearing to the right (see 
iinger-posts), leads to the ('/z hr.) Eochfluh , a charming point of view. 
It then runs high above the lake and descends to (1 hr.) Iseltwald, from 
which a road leads to (IV2 M.) Sengg, (3 M.) Bonigen, and (I'/oH.) Interlaken. 

52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel. 

Comp. Map, p. lOS. 

10 hrs. : Im-Hof 3' 2 31., Im-Boden 41/2M., Guttannen 3 i hr., Handegg 
2 hrs., Grimsel Hospice 21/2, summit of the Grimsel 1, Rhone Glacier ^^'4 (in 
the reverse direction about 8'/2 hrs. in all). Road to Guttannen (one-horse 
carr. 12, two-horse 20; to Im-Hof 6 or 10 fr. ; diligence to Im-Hof twice 
daily, 1 fr.); then a good bridle-path, guide unnecessary. Horse from Mei- 
ringen to the Handegg (and back in one day) 15, Grimsel 25, Rhone Glac- 
ier 32 , Hospenthal or Andermatt 40 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier to the 
Grimsel 6, to the Hospice 10, Handegg 15, Meiringen 30 fr. 

Meiringen, see p. 168. The road crosses the Aare by the Willi- 
yenbriicke (passing, on the right, the upper fall of the Reichenbach, 
p. 167), and ascends the Kirchet (2313'), a wooded hill, sprinkled 
with erratic blocks of granite , which divides the valley into the 
Lower and Upper Haslithal. At the top (I74 M.) is the auberge 
^Zum Lamm, where a Anger-post indicates the path to the 'Fin- 
stere Aarschlucht' to the left (p. 168; pedestrians should follow the 
path through the gorge, l 4 hr. longer than the road). 

The road descends the Kirchet in long windings (short-cuts), 
traverses the fertile basin of Hasli im tirund, and crosses the Aare 
near (2'/4 M.) Im-Hof (2054'; *H6t. du Hof, R. & L. 2-21/2, pens. 
5-6 fr., carr. and horses ; Alpenhof, R. 2, D. 2-3 fr. ; liestaur. Alpen- 
rose), the principal village in the parish of Innertkirchen, where 
the Susten (p. 125) and Joch Pass (p. 123) routes diverge to the left. 



172 Route r)l>. HANDEOG FALL. From Meirim/en 

Travellers from the Grimsel on their way to Rosenlaui and Grindel- 
wald may go from Im-IIof direct, by Oeissfiolz, to the Upper Eeichenbach 
Fall (comp. p. 167: enquire for the beginning of the path). 

The Urbachthal (comp. Map, p. 160), opening here towards the S.W., 
deserves a visit. The path ascends to the ('/z hr.) narrow mouth of the 
valley, is then nearly level for 1 hr., and afterwards mounts steeply to the 
(2 hrs.) Alp f>c>trdtlern (4940'; beds), where the path to the Dossenhiitte 
diverges to the right (see below), and to the (1 hr.) Mattenalp (6l02'j, at 
the foot of the huge Gauli Glacier. In 1 hr. more we reach the Urnenalp 
(7213'; rustic quarters). Thence over the Gauli Pasa (10,260') to the Grim- 
sel , combined with the ascent of the Eieifjschneehorn, 8-9 hrs., fatiguing, 
but very grand (see p. 174). — Over the Bergli-Joch (11,290') to Grindel- 
wald, 16-17 hrs. from Im-Hof, very toilsome and hardly repaying. From 
the Urnenalp (where we pass the night) we ascend the Gauli Glacier to 
the pass , lying between the Berglislock (p. 166) and the Rosenhorn , and 
descend the Grindelwaldfirn to the Wetterhorn Hut (comp. p, 165). — The 
Dossen Hut (p. 167) is reached in 4'/2-5 hrs. from the Alp Schrattern (see 
above), by the Alps Jllmenstein, Enzen^ and Fldschen. Thence to Rosenlaui, 
ascent of the Wetterhorn, and to Grindelwald, see p. 167. All these expe- 
ditions are for adepts only, with good guides. (At Innertkirchen, Jvh. Tdnn- 
ler, Joh. Moor., Joh. tk Melch. Thoni, etc.) 

Beyond Im-Hof the new road is at first level, and then gradually 
ascends, on the right side of the picturesque valley, being hewn in 
the rock at places and passing through two short tunnels. Running 
high above the rapid Aare, it leads to (31/4 M.) Innere L/riye/d(2464'), 
and then under overhanging rocks and through another tunnel to 
(11/4 M.) /m-Boden (2933'), opposite the hamlet of that name on 
the left bank. The road then crosses the Aare by a new bridge and 
continues on the left bank to (8/4 hr.) Guttannen (3480^; Bar, 
plain, R., L., & A. 23/4, B. IV2 fr.), the largest village in the Ober- 
haslithal, lying in a broad basin. The pastures are covered in every 
direction with heaps of stones, brought down by torrents. (Over 
the Furtwang Sattel to the Trift Glacier, see p. 126; guide, An- 
dreas Sulzer). 

Beyond Guttannen (U^ hr.) we cross the wild and foaming Aare 
by the Tschingelbrilcke (3733'). The valley contracts, and barren 
black rocks rise on the right. Huge masses of debris deposited on 
the less precipitous slopes testify to the power of avalanche and 
torrent. On the right the Wissbach Glacier discharges its waters 
into the valley. Crossing the Aare by the (20 min.) Schwarzbrun- 
nenbriicke (3976'), and ascending a little, we reach (10 min.) a 
spring of good water on the right. The Aare becomes more rapid, 
and here forms a small waterfall. A pine-clad ridge of rock now 
closes the valley. The paved path ascends over granite rocks, round- 
ed and polished by glacier-friction (see p. 173). 

From a bend in the path (35 min. from the last bridge, and 8 min. 
from the Handegg Inn) a short side-path leads to the left through a 
chalet to a platform ('/.> fr. ) immediately opposite the *Handegg 
Fall, a cascade of the Aare, which descends amidst a cloud of spray 
into an abyss, 250' in depth. Grand as this spectacle is, it is still 
finer when viewed from a point (adm. 50 c.) above the fall, which 
is reached by descending for 5 min. to the left of the (8 min.) Han- 



to the Rhone GL GRIMSEL HOSPICE. 52. Route. 173 

degg Inn (4650'). The approach is easy and safe. Next to the falls 
of the Tosa (p. 307) and the Rhine (p. 25), this is the grandest water- 
fall among the Alps, owing to its height, its great volume of water, 
and the wild surroundings. The stream is so rapid that it falls un- 
broken halfway to the bottom, and in its rebound it forms a dense 
idoud of spray, in which rain-bows are formed by the sunshine 
between 10 and 1 o'clock. The silvery water of the Aerlenbach falls 
from a height to the left into the same gulf, mingling halfway down 
with the grey glacier-water of the Aare. The bridge which spanned 
the river at this point was destroyed at the same time as the inn. 

The sombre pine-forest becomes thinner, and even the dwarf- 
pines disappear a little above the Handegg. The stony soil is clothed 
with stunted grass , moss , and rhododendrons. About ^/o hr. from 
the Handegg the path leads over rounded slabs of rock , called the 
Bose Seite and the Helle or Hehle ('slippery') Platte, both worn by 
glacier-friction. Opposite them the Gelmerbach forms a picturesque 
fall. It descends from the Oelmersee (5968') , a lake on the moun- 
tain to the left, between the Gelmerhorn and Schaubhorn, and may 
be visited from the Handegg (1 '/4 hr. ; steep path). 

The valley becomes narrower and bleaker. The path frequently 
crosses the Aare, now a mere brook, and vegetation almost disappears. 
Between the Handeck and Grimsel the only human habitations are 
the (1 hr.) two chalets in the Rdterichsboden (5595'; milk) , the 
last basin below the Grimsel, and perhaps once the bed of a lake. 

The rocky , but well - made path ascends for a short distance 
through a wild defile, and then becomes comparatively level. It 
again crosses the Aare, turns to the left (where persons descending 
the valley must avoid the turning to the left), and reaches (1 hr.) 
the Grimsel Hospice (6148'; *Inn, R. & L. SVo, B. IV2, D. 
4fr.), originally a refuge for poor travellers crossing the Grimsel, 
and now often crowded with tourists. The small rooms are separated 
by very thin wooden partitions. Carved wood by Hans Abplanalp. 

This desolate basin, the Grimselgrund, enclosed by bare rocks 
with occasional patches of scanty herbage or moss, lies 955' below 
the pass (p. 175). Beyond the gloomy little lake, which is destitute 
of flsh , lies the Seemdttli, a meagre pasturage, where the cows of 
the Hospice graze for one or two months only. The jagged mountain 
to the W., above the ravine of the Aare, is the Agassizhorn [iS ,i'20'), 
the N. pedestal of the Finsteraarhorn (p. 174). The latter is visible 
from a rocky hill 150 paces to the N. 

Excursions from the Grimsel Hospice (comp. Maps, pp. 108, 160). 
The °Eleine Siedelhorn (9075'; 3 hrs.; guide 4 fr.) , is an easy and 
attractive ascent. (The Oros.te Siedelhorn (9450'), an inferior point of 
view, lies farther to the S.W.] The path diverges to the right at the 
bifurcation of the Rhone Glacier and Obergestelen routes. The last '/i hr. 
is fatiguing, as the top of the mountain is covered with fragments 
of granite. The view is imposing. Gigantic peaks surround us on every 
side: to the W. the SchrecUhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, and the Fiescher- 



17 4 Route 5l>. FINSTERAARHORN, From Meiringen 

hfirner; to the N.E. tbe Galenstock, from which the Rhone Glacier de- 
scends ; to the S. the Upper Valais chain with its numerous ice-streams, 
particularly the Gries Glacier; to the S.W., in the distance, the Alphubel, 
Mischabel, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. (comp. Dill's Panorama). — Tra- 
vellers bound for Obergestelen (p. 303) need not return from the Siedelhorn 
to the Grirasel Pass, but may descend on the S.E. side of the mountain 
and there regain the bridle-path (guide advisable; comp. p. 172). 

To the Pavillon Dollfus 3-4 hrs. (there and back 7 hrs.; guide 10 fr.). 
The Aare is formed, to the W. of the hospice, by the discharge of two vast 
glaciers, the Unteraar and the Oberaar Glacier, which are separated by the 
ZinkenstiicTce. The Unteraar Glacier is formed by the confluence of the 
Finsteraar and Lavteraar Glaciers^ which unite at the foot (8286') of the 
rock-arete named '/»« Ahschwnng\ though for a long way below that point 
they are separated by a huge moraine, 100' high at places. At the foot of 
this arete the Swiss naturalist Hugi erected a hut in 1827, which in 1840 
had descended with the glacier to a distance of 1900 yds. from its original 
site. In 1841 and several following years the eminent Agassiz of Neu- 
chatel, with Desor, Vogt, Wild, and other savants , spent a considerable 
time here, dating their interesting observations from the 'Hotel des Neu- 
chatelois', a stone hut erected under a huge block of mica-slate projecting 
from the medial moraine. These huts have long since disappeared. M. 
Dollfus-Ausset of Miilhausen in Alsace next erected the Pavilion DoUfus 
(7676') lower down, on the N. side of the Lauteraar Glacier, now used as 
a club-hut (comp. p. 163, and Maps, pp. 108, 160 and 304). A visit to this hut 
is interesting and free from hazard. A bridle-path leads from the hospice 
across the stony Aarehoden to (IV4 hr.) the foot of the Unteraar Glacier 
(6160'). Here we ascend the rock to the right by a narrow path and then 
traverse the rocks and debris of the terminal moraine. After about 40 niin. 
we take to the glacier, which affords good walking, pass several fine 
'glacier-tables', and cross the medial moraine and the Lauteraar Glacier, 
which is here often considerably crevassed. Lastly we ascend a steep 
slope to the (1 hr.) Club Hut, admirably situated on a rocky height over- 
looking the Unteraar Glacier. Opposite rise the Zinkenstocke, Thierberg, 
Scheuchzerhorn, and Escherhorn; in the background, above the Finster- 
aar Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn ; and to the right of the Abschwung the 
huge Lauteraarhorner and Schreckhorner. — We may continue our walk 
on the glacier as far as (3/4 hr.) the foot of the Abschwung (see above), 
where we enjoy a full view of the majestic Finsteraarhorn. In the med- 
ial moraine adjoining the Lauteraar Glacier, nearly opposite the Pav. 
Dollfus, is a fragment of rock bearing the names of 'Stengel 1844; Otz, 
Ch. Martins 1845'', inscribed there during the scientific observations above 
referred to. The rock, re-discovered in 1884, was then about 2660 yds. from 
its original site. 

The ascent of the "Ewigschneehom (10,930'; 4V4 hrs.) presents little 
difficulty to adepts. From the Pav. Dollfus across the Lauteraar Glacier 
to the foot of the mountain (8390') I'/a hr., to the Gauligrat (10,260') 2 hrs., 
to the top 3/4 •i"'- (comp. p. 172). 

The Finsteraarhorn (14,026'), the highest of the Bernese Alps, was 
scaled for the first time in 1812 , then in 1829 and twice in 1842, and has 
pretty often been ascended since. Travellers from the Grimsel spend the 
night in the Oberaar Hut (see p. 175). The route then ascends to the 
GamUucke (c. 11,150') between the Rothhorn and Finsteraarhorn, and skirts 
theW. flank of the latter to iXxa HugUattel (13,205') and the top (7-9 hrs.). 
This is the most advisable route. On the ascent from Grindelwald, the 
Schwarzegg Hut (p. 162) affords night quarters ; thence to the top in 9-10 hrs., 
over the Finxteraarjoch, the Agassizjoch (12,630'), and the Uugisattel. If the 
Eggishorn be the starting-point, tbe night is spent in the (5 hrs.) Concordia 
Hut (p. 169), from which wc ascend to the summit in 8 hrs. over the Griin- 
hornlilcke (10,843'), the Walliser Fiescherfirn, and the Hugisattel. The ex- 
pedition is fit for thorough experts only, with first-rate guides. Even when 
the ice is in a favourable condition the ascent is difficult and very trying. 
From the Gkimsel to Fiesch, on to the Eggishorn (p. 304), over the 
Oberaar; of/i , 13 hrs. fatiguing, but interesting (two guides, 35 fr. each). 



to the Rhone Glacier. GRIMSEL PASS. bJ. Route. 175 

We ascend the Oberaar Glacier in 6-8 hrs. to the finely situated and well- 
appointed Club Hut on the Oberaarjoch (10,624'), lying to the S. of the 
Oberaarhorn (11,953'; which experts may scale from the hut in I1/2 hr.)- 
We then descend the fitvder/irn, passing the Eothhorn (11,345'; at its S. 
base, to the right, is the Rolkloch , a cave in which travellers ascending 
the Finsteraarhorn used to spend the night); we then toil down the right 
side of the crevassed Fiesch Glacier to the Slockalp (p. 304), and to the 
Hotel Jtmgfrau-Eggishorn (p. 304; 7 hrs. from the club-hut). — Over the 
Obekaar-Rothjoch (10,9(36'), to the S. of the Oberaarjoch, not difficult. 
— Over the Stdderjoch to Fiesch, 14-15 hrs., difficult. The route ascends 
the Unteraar and Finsferaar Glaciers to the Studerjoch (11,550'), between 
the Oberaarhorn (see above) and the Studerhorn (11,935'; a splendid point 
of view, easily attained from the pass in 3/4 hr.). Descent over the Studer- 
firn and the Fiesch Glacier, as above. 

From the Grimsel over the SiraJilegg and the Finsteranrjoch or Lauter- 
aarjoch to Grindelicald, p. 162. — From the Grimsel to the Furka direct, over 
the Nageliigratli, p. 116; over the Triftlimmi to the Trift-Jliitte., p. 125. 

From the Hospice the bridle-path, indicated by stakes, winds np 
the Grimsel Pass (7103'), connecting the Haslithal witli the Upper 
Valais. After about 21/4 M. the road to Obergestelen diverges to 
the right (see below). Beyond the (I/4 hr.) summit (Hauseck), the 
boundary between Bern and the Valais, lies the small Todtensee. 

In 1799 this 'lake of the dead' was used as a burial-place by the Aus- 
trians and French. The former, with the Valaisians, had intrenched them- 
selves on the Grimsel, hut were surprised by the French, whom Fahner, 
a peasant of Guttannen, had guided over the Ndgelisgrdlli (p. 116), and 
were driven back into the Valais. The French presented their guide, at his 
request, with the Raterichsboden (p. 173), as a reward for his services, but 
the government of Bern cancelled the gift a few months later. 

Those who have seen the Rhone Glacier (p. 302) may descend direct 
from the Grimsel to (21/4 hrs.) Obergestelen (p. 303) by the path diverging to 
the right (see above) 1/4 l^r- before the top of the pass is i-eached. Splendid 
views of the Valaisian Alps and the St. Gotthard group, and also, at the 
beginning of the descent, of the fall of the Rhone Glacier. (In the reverse 
direction 2'/2-3 hrs. ; guide desirable in foggy weather, 4 fr.). The ascent 
of the Kleine Siedelhorn (p. 173) may easily be combined with this route. 

From the pass our path leads to the left, on the N. side of the 
Todtensee, and descends the Maienwand, a steep grassy slope 1300' 
in height, carpeted with rhododendrons and other Alpine plants, in 
view of the imposing Rhone Glacier and the Galenstock. The (3/4 hr.) 
Rhone Glacier Hotel, see p. 302. Thence to Brigue, see R. 80 ; over 
the Furka to Andermatt, R. 33. 

53. From (Thun) Spiez to Leuk over the Gemini. 

Comp. Maps, pp. Hi, ITS. 

Diligence twice daily from Spiez to (9'/2 M.) Frutigen in 2 hrs. 20min. ; 
(2fr. 65, coupe' 3 fr. 45c.); one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; to (19 M.) 
Kandersteg 18 or 35 fr. — From Thun to the Heustrich-Bad omnibus daily 
at 4 p.m. (21/2 fr.); carr. to Kandersteg 20 or 38 fr. 

The Gemmi is one of the grandest and most frequented of the Alpine 
passes. Road to Kandersteg (19 M. from Spiez) ; thence over the Gemmi to 
the Baths of Leuk (53/4 hrs.) a good bridle-path (guide unnecessary) ; road 
from Leuk to the Rhone Valley (21/2 hrs'. walk down, 31/2 up). 

Thun, see p. 139. Steamboat to Spiez (*Spiezer Hof, Eng. 
Church Service in summer), see p. 144; post-office near the land- 
ing-place, where carriages also arc in waiting. The road, bordered 



176 Route 53. HEUSTRICH-BAD. From Spiez 

with houses and fruit-trees, ascends the hills on the S. bank of the 
lake to Moos, where it joins the road from Thun, and (IV2M.) 
Spiezwyler ; to the S.W. rises the Niesen (p. 142), with Wimmis 
(p. 142) at its base, at the entrance to the Simmenthal (p. 186). 

The road skirts the lofty right bank of the Kander. To the left 
diverges the road to Aeschi (see below). The diligence halts at (3 M.) 
Emdthal (Inn), the station for the *Heustrich-Bad (2303'), on the 
opposite bank of the Kander, with saline and sulphur-baths, much 
frequented (board 31/2-6 fr. ; ascent of the Niesen, see p. 142). To the 
left a footpath ascends to (20 min.) Aeschi (see below). The road 
crosses the Suldbach to (1/2 M.) Mulinen (2264'; *Bdr, moderate). 

Fkom Spiez by JEscin to Mulinen (51/2 M. ; one-horse carr. 6, two- 
horse 10 fr.), a much more attractive route than the above. Walkers ascend 
by a somewhat steep path in 1 lir. (or by the road 4 M.) to .Xschi (2818'; 
"JJdt.-Pens. Bliimlisalp, pension 5-7 fr. ; ''Hdt.-Pens. Niesen), a village on the 
height between the Lake of Thun and the Kanderthal, with a charming 
view of the lake, and visited as a health-resort. (The Faulenseebad, p. 144, 
is 1 M. to the S. E.) Descent to Emdthal or Miilinen, IV2 M. — Fkom 
jEschi to the Saxetenthal, a pleasant route (T'/z hrs. ; guide unnecess- 
ary). Road by Aefchi-Ried in the Suldthal to the (6 M.) Untere Suldalp 
(3418'); then a bridle-path, past a fine waterfall of the Suldbach, to the 
fl'/^hr.) Scfilierm-Alp (467.5'); ascent to the left to the (ii/2 hr.) Renggli- 
Pass or Tanzbbdeli-Pass (6168'), between the Morgenberghorn and Ihe 
Schwalmevn; then descend by the Sinter -Sergli- Alp to (I1/2 hr.) Saxeten 
(p. 151). The Morgenberghorn (7383') may be ascended from the pass in 
1'/2 br. (guide desirable for the unexperienced), or direct from .<Eschi via 
Aeschi- Allmend, the Sonnenberg, and the Hulmad Alp in 5 hrs. The ascent 
of the Schwalmern (9137') from the Suldthal is more interesting, but fit 
for experts only, with guide; descent past the Sulegg (p. 151) to Saxeten 
or Isenlluh. — Fiiom ^^schi to Interlaken by Kratligen (Stern), Leissigcn 
(Steinbock) and Ddrligen (p. 145), a beautiful walk or drive of 9 M. 

We pass (3/4 M.) Reichenbacli (2336'; *Bdr), lying to the left, 
at the mouth of the Kienthal (superb view of the Bliimlisalp). 

A narrow road ascends the attractive Kienthal, affording fine views 
of the Biittlassen, Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp, to the (4 M.) village of 
Kienthal (rustic inn) and (3'/2 M.) the extensive Tschingel Alp (3783'), 
lU min. from which is the Pochtenbachfall with the interesting "Hexen- 
kessel, a kind of 'glacier mill'. Thence over the Sefinen-Furgge to Miir- 
reii (8-9 hrs.), and over the Hohthiirli to Kandersleg , see p. 156. To the 
E. the valley is closed by the crevassed Gamchi Glacier, the source of the 
Pochteiihach. Experts with able guides will find it interesting to cross the 
GamchilUcke (9295'), between the Bliimlisalp and the Gspaltenhorn, to 
(he Tsc/iingelfirn (p. 156). We may then either cross the Pelersgrat to 
Ried in the Lotschenthal (p. 157), or the Tschingelpass to Kandersteg 
(p. 156), or the Tschingeltritt to Lauterbrnnnen (p. 156). Distances: from 
tlie T.schingelalp to Steinenberg 1 hr., end of the Gamchi Glacier I1/2 hr., 
Gamchiliicke 2V2, Ried 6-7, Kandersteg 6, Lauterbrnnnen 4 hrs. — As- 
cents from the Kienthal : Biittlassen (10,490'), from the Diirrenberg-Hiilte 
(2V2 hrs. above the T.scluns<'lalp, see p. 156), 3i/2-4 hrs., toilsome, but re- 
paying. — Gspaltenhorn (11,276'), reached by the Leitergrat between the 
Biittlassen and the Gspaltenhorn, very difficult (first scaled by Mr. Foster 
in 1869). — "Wilde Frau (10,693'), from the Franenbalin Hut (p. 178) and 
up the Bliimlisalp Glacier, 3 hrs. laborious. 

The road crosses the Kander, and next reaches (33/4 M.) — 

91/2 M. Frutigen (2717'; pop. 4033; Adler ; *BeUevue , with 
pretty view ; * Helvetia), a village situated in a fertile valley on the 
Engstligenbach , which falls into the Kander lower down. Matches 



to Leuk. ADELBODEN. 53. Route. 177 

are largely manufactured here. From the church we obtain a beau- 
tiful view of the Kanderthal and the Altels , and of the Ralligstocke 
and St. Beatenberg. — Ascent of the Niesen, see p. 141. 

The valley divides here ; the S. arm, watered by the Kander, leads to 
the Gemini. To the S.W. diverges the pretty Engstligen or Adelboden 
Valley. A new road (to Adelboden 10 M.) ascends on the left side of the 
valley to Aehseten and the Stecf (auberge), crosses the Engstligen and 
follows the right bank to Eirzboden, recrosses the stream and ascends to 
the village of Adelboden (4447'; ~E6t. Fens.-Wildstvubel; Adler : -Pens. 
Jlari; guides, G. Fiihndrich and Chr. Egger), situated on a hill, and a good 
centre for excursions. To the Engstligen Alp (see below), 2 brs., guide ad- 
visable (abundant Edelweiss near the waterfall) ; to the Wetterianne in 
the Allenbachlhal, with line view of the Wildstrubel and Lohner, 1 hr. ; 
to the " Podifenkessel (p. 176) , 1 hr. down the valley , near the road, 
then to the left to the little Rindicaldbad and through the wild Tichenten- 
bnch Gorge back to Adelboden. To the Bonder Waterfall in the Bonder- 
thai., there and back 3 hrs. , etc. 

Passes. To Lenk a path , marshy at places , leads hence over the 
Hahnenmoos (6410'), passing a large dairy establishment near the top, in 
S'/'i brs. (guide 6, horse 15 fr.). Beautiful view, during the descent, of the 
upper Simmenthal, the Wildstrubel, the Weissborn, and the Razli Glacier. 
In the reverse direction 1 to l'/2 hr. longer. 

Fkom Adelboden to Kandeksteg, an interesting route over the Bonder- 
krinden (7831'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), a pass between the Klein-Lohner 
and the NiiniUorn. Descent through the wild Oeschinenthal (p. 178). — A 
shorter route, but steep and trying, crosses the Bondergrat, farther N., 
between the Klein-Lohner and the Bonderspitz, and descends by the Allmen- 
Alp (p. 179) to Kandersteg. The Bonderspitz (8360'), an admirable point of 
view, is ascended from Adelboden in 4, or from Kandersteg in 41/2 hrs. — To 
ScHWARENBACH (on the Gemmi route) over the Engstligesgrat, 9-10 hrs., 
with guide (12 fr.), a fine route. From Adelboden we ascend the valley to the 
S., passing the fine Slaiibfall, to the (2 hrs.) Engstligen Alp (GSdV), a grand 
Alpine basin at the base of the broad Wildstrubel (p. 184). We then 
cross the Engstligengrat, passing the curious Tschingelochtighorn (8990'), 
and descend into the Ueschinenthali , with its little lake (far below to the 
left lies the Ueschinenthal, p. 179). Then to the left, over the Schtcarz- 
grdtli, to Tschalmeten, and Schwarenbach (p. 179); or we may traverse the 
Ueschinentkdli Glacier, on the W. side of the Felsenhorn (9157'), and de- 
scend through the Rothe Ki/mm to the Daubensee and Gemmi Pass. ■ — To 
SiEEEE ovEE THE Steubelegg AND Lammeenjoch, 12-13 hrs. , for the pro- 
ficient only, with able guides. From the Engstligenalp a difficult ascent 
over loose stones and across the steep Strubel Glacier to the Strubelegg 
(9613'), between the Steghorn and Wildstrubel (the E. peak, or Gross-Strubel, 
iO,676'); then over the Ldmmern Glacier to the Lainmernjoch (p. 185); lastly 
down the Wildstrubel Glacier and the Plaine Morte , and past the Monl 
Bonvin (p. 295), into the liaspilly Valley and to Sierre (p. 295). 

Our road crosses the Engstligenbach and the Kander (on the 
right the ruins of the Tellenburg), and traverses the pleasant Kan- 
dergrund. The church and parsonage of the valley are at (3 M.) 
Bunderbach (2880'; Hot. Altels). 

By a rustic cabaret, V2 M. beyond the Hotel Altels, a road diverges 
to the right in 8 min. (and another, 1/4 M. farther, by a chalet, in 4 min.) 
to the Blaue See, picturesquely embosomed in wood, and remarkable 
for its brilliant colour (best by morning-light). -Pension on the bank of 
the lake, 5i/2-7'/2 fr. Charge for maintenance of the mads and use of the 
boat 80 c.; a ticket at l'/2 fr. entitles the visitor to V2 bottle of wine, for 
4 fr. he may dine at the table d'hote (at 12.30), and for 7 fr. be may sup, 
sleep, and breakfast at the pension; the use of boat included in each case; 
otherwise refreshments are only procurable at a hut on the road-side. 
Travellers to Kandersteg rejoin the road by a path in 5 min. 

Bauuekek, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 12 



178 Route 53. KANDEKSTEG. From Thun 

Near (II/2 M.) Mittholz (3154') we pass the square tower of 
the ruined Felsenburg ; we then ascend the Biihlstutz in windings 
f short-cut for walkers , following the telegraph-wires), passing the 
(33/4 M.) Buhlhnd (3885'; *Inn, plain, pens. 41/2-5 fr.) and reach 
(3/4 M.) - 

19 M. Kandersteg (3840'). — 'H6t. Victokia, k., l., & A. 23/4, 

B. I'/z, D. 3V2 fr. ; *HoT. Gemmi, R. 3, L. 3/4 fr., in Eggensc/iwand, I1/4 M. 
farther on, at the upper end of Kandersteg; 'Bar, '/< '*!• farther, near 
the foot of the Gemini, R., L., & A. 3'/2-4, !>• 4, pen8. 7 fr. — Glides 
(Jakob Imobersteg , schoolmaster ; Johann , Fritz , and Gilg. Ogi ; Chri- 
stian, Gilg., Joh., and Samuel llari; Joh. KUnzi): to Schwarenbacli (un- 
necessary; 3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr. ; to the Gemmi (summit of the pass, 4, 
descent 23/4 hrs.) 7 fr. ; to the Baths of Leuk (5 hrs.) 10 fr. — Horse to 
Schwarenbach 10 , to the Gemmi 15 fr. (the descent on horseback to the 
Baths of Leuk is prohibited). Cauriages (return-vehicles cheaper): one- 
horse to Frutigen 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; Spiez, 18 or 35; Thun, 20 or 40; In- 
terlaken, 25 or 45 fr. 

A grand panorama is disclosed here : to the N.E. is the jagged 
liirrenhorn; to the E. the glistening snow-mantle of the Bliimlisalp 
or Frau, the beautiful Doldenhorn, and the barren Fisistocke; to 
the S.W., between the Ueschinenthal and the Gasternthal, the 
lofty Gellihorn. On the W. side of the valley is an old moraine. 

To the E. lies the interesting Oescuinen-Thal, containing the beautiful 
•Oeschinen-Set (5223'), 1 51- in length. The path to it (I'/z br. ; guide 4 fr., 
unnecessary ; horse 8 fr.), bad and stony at places, diverges to the left by the 
Hotel Victoria, and ascends on the right bank of the Oeschincnhach, partly 
through wood. Above the lake tower the huge, snow -clad Bliimlisalp, 
Frilndenhorny and Doldenhorn, from the precipices of which fall several 
cascades. Boat on the lake (refreshmts. at the boatman's). We may either 
row to the upper end of the lake, or walk round it to the left as far as the 
Berglihach, opposite the glaciers. Thence to the Oeschinenalp and over the 
nohthUrli into the Kienthal, see p. 156. 

The Bliimlisalp or Frau, a huge mountain-group, covered on the N. 
side with a dazzling mantle of snow, and on the S. side descending 
in bold precipices to the Kandergletscher, culminates in three principal 
peaks. To the W. is the Bliimlisalphorn (12,042'), the highest; in the centre 
is the snowv peak of the JKe/sse Frau (12,012'); and to the E. is the 
Morgenhorn (11,894') with the lower Wilde Frau (10,693'; p. 176), Bliimlis- 
alpttock (10,562'), BUimlitalp-nolhhorn (10.828'), and Oeschinenhorn (11,450'). 
The Bliimlisalphorn was lirst ascended by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1860, 
the Woisse Frau by Dr. Koth and Hr. E. v. Fellenberg in 1862, and both 
liave frequently been ascended since. (Both toilsome, hut very interest- 
ing. A night is spent in the Frauenbalm .&«< on the Diinden Pass. Thence 
up the Bliimlisalp Glacier , 4-5 hrs. to the summit.) — The Dolden- 
horn (11,968'), first ascended by Messrs. Roth and Fellenberg in 1862 (from 
Kandersteg l.y the Bil,e7-g Alp' in 8 hrs.), is difflcult. — The Frundenhorn 
(11,030'), lirst ascended in 1871 by Messrs. Ober and Corradi (from Kander- 
steg by the Alp In den Friinden, "lO'/a hrs.), is also difficult. — Interesting 
but toilsome passes lead from the Oeschinenthal to the Kander Glacier, 
across the Oeschinenjoch (about 10,430'), between the Oeschinenhorn and 
the Friindenhorn, and across the Friindenjoch (about 10,030'), between the 
Friindenliorn and the Doldenhorn. 

The Diindenhorn „t Wittwe (9410'), ascended from Kandersteg by the 
Obere Oeschinenalp, a climb of 6 hrs., for experts only, affords a splendid 
survey of the Bliimlisalp group. We may then follow the arete to the 
Frauenbalm Hut (p. 156), and descend thence to Kandersteg (13-14 hrs. in all). 

The wild '^Gasternthal, from which the Kander descends in pictur- 
esque falls, deserves a visit (3/4-I hr.). A good path, diverging between 
the Bar and Gemini hotels skirts the left bank and ascends steeply through 







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toLe.uk. GEMMI. 53. Route. 179 

the Klus (p. 183) to the upper part of the valley, bounded on the S. by the 
precipices of the Tatlishorn and Altels. (Splendid fall of the Geltenbach.) 
— Picturesque excursions (guide advisable for the inexperienced) may be 
made from Kandersfeg, to the E. to the (2V-' hrs.) Fisi Alp (6448'), and to 
the W. to the (2hrs.)^n?ne« ^Zp(5574'), both commanding line views. 

From Kandersteg over the Bonderkrinden to Adelboden, see p. 177 
(guide lOfr.) ; over the Liitschen Pass to Gampul (in the Valais), see R. 54 
(guide 18 fr.); over the Tschingel Pass to Laulerbrunnen, see p. 156 (guide 
30 fr. ; preferable in the reverse direction, as there are no inns in the 
Gasternfhal, and the ascent thence is very long and fatiguing). — Over 
the "Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal (10-12 hrs. from Kandersteg to Ried ; 
guide 30 fr.), a very fine route. We follow the Tschingel Pass route to 
the top of the Kanderfirn ; then turn to the right and ascend snow-slopes to 
the pass (10,660'; splendid view). Descent through the Faflerthal or 
Tellithal to Ried (comp. p. 157). 

Beyond the Bar Hotel (p. 178), the road contracts to a well- 
kept bridle-path, and ascends. On the right is the Alpbach, issuing 
from the Veschinenthal, with several small falls. The path ascends 
in windings at the base of the Gellihorn (7530'), on a slope which 
terminates the valley, and then leads through a pine-forest high 
above the Gasternthal (p. 183), affording line views of the Fisistock, 
Doldenhorn, etc. On the right, 2'/2 hrs. from Kandersteg, we ob- 
serve the chalets of the Spitalmalte (6250'). To the E., between the 
snowy vliiei8(l 1,930') and the black rocky peak of the Kleine Rinder- 
horn (9865'; adjoining which is the snow-clad Grosse Rinderhorn, 
11,372'), lies imbedded the Schwarz Glacier, drained by the Sc/itwars- 
bach. We next traverse a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip, 
to the (1/2 hr.) *Inn of Schwarenbach (6775'; R., L., & A. 33/4, B. 
11/2 fr-), with its little lake. 

The 'Balmhorn (12,180'), ascended in 5-6 hrs., over the ScTiwarz Glacier 
and the Zagengrai (toilsome, but free from danger; guide 30 fr.), affords a 
magnificent panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, and extends 
to N. Switzerland. — The Altels (11,930') is less interesting (5-6 hrs. ; guide 
25 fr. ; much step-cutting necessary when there is little snow). — The 
Wildstrubel (10,670'), ascended from the Gemmi over the Ldmmevn Glacier 
in 4-4V2 hrs., is fatiguing, but repaying (comp. p. 185). 

We next reach the (i/o tr.) shallow Daubensee (7264'), a lake 
1 M. long, fed by the Lammern Glacier (see below), with no 
visible outlet , and generally frozen over for seven months in the 
year. The path skirts the E. bank of the lake, and, lOmin. beyond 
it, reaches the summit of the pass, the Daube, or Gemmi (7553'), at 
the base of the Daubenhom (9685'), the bare limestone-rocks of which 
rise abruptly to the right. Adjacent is the Lammern Glacier with its 
huge moraines (over the Lammernjoch to Lenk see p. 185). 
On the route to the left is the small Hotel Wildstrubel ( R. 3-4 fr.), 
commanding a magnificent view of the Rhone Valley and the Alps 
of the Valais (panorama by Imfeld). The mountains to the extreme 
left are the Mischabelhorner ; more to the right rise the Bninegg- 
horn, the huge Weisshorn, the pyramid of the Matterhorn, and still 
more to the right the Dent Blanche. At a giddy depth below lie the 
Baths of Leuk, and beyond them Inden (p. 181). Abundant flora. 

About 5 min. below the pass is a stone hut for sheep, on the 

12* 



1 80 Route r,3. BATHS OF LEUK. From Thxm 

brink of an almost perpendicular rock, 1660' high, down which, in 
1736-41, the Cantons of Bern and Valais constructed one of the 
most curious of Alpine routes. From this point to Leuk it is up- 
wards of 2 M. in length, and nowhere less than 5' in width. The 
windings are skilfully hewn in the rock, often resembling a spiral 
staircase, the upper parts actually projecting at places beyond the 
lower. The steepest parts and most sudden corners are protected 
by parapets. Distant voices reverberating in this gorge some- 
times sound as if they issued from its own recesses. Unprotect- 
ed as the path appears when seen from below, there is no danger, 
even to persons inclined to giddiness , if attended by a guide. 
(Descent to the Baths 11/2, ascent 2'/2 hrs.; the descent on horse- 
back is now prohibited.) In 1861 a Comtesse d'Herlincourt fell from 
her saddle over the precipice and was killed ; a small monument, 
1/4 hr. from the top, marks the spot. From the 'Blaue Fluh' we see 
on the opposite cliff a ladder (now inaccessible) and other relics of 
an old guard house, up to the foot of which the gorge was once fill- 
ed with debris. The openings in the walls of the meadows at the 
foot of the Gemmi are used for the counting of sheep. 

Baths of Leuk. — 'Hotel des Alpes, K. & A. 3'/2, B. li/-.>, D. i'/^) pens. 
9-11 fr. ; 'Maison Blanche, with its d^pendance Grand Bain; 'Hotel de 
France; -'Union, R., L., & A. 3, D. 4 fr. •, * FRfiRES Brunner , D. 3 fr. ; 
Bellevde ; 'GuiLL. Tell, moderate; Rossli; Croix Fedkrale, unpretend- 
ing. — Horse to Kandersteg 20, Schwarenbach 12, Daube 8 fr. ; Porter to 
Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach 6, top of the Gemini 4 fr. (guides and porters 
very importunate). — Diligence (from the Hotel de France) to the Leuk 
station every forenoon in summer in 2 hrs. (5 fr.) ; one-horse carr. 12-15, 
two-horse 25 fr. — English Church. 

Bad Leuk (4630' J, Fr. Loeche-les-Bains, locally known as Baden 
or Ober-Baden, a village consisting chiefly of wooden houses, with 
673 inhab., lies on green pastures in a valley opening to the S., 
and watered by the Dala, 2920' below the Daube (Gemmi), and 
2590' above the Rhone. In July and August the baths are much 
frequented by French, Swiss, and Italian visitors. The massive 
embankment on the E. side protects the village against avalanches. 
In the height of summer the sun disappears about 5 p.m. The 
huge, perpendicular wall of the Gemmi presents a weird appearance 
by moonlight. 

The Thermal Springs (93-123° Fahr.) , impregnated with lime, about 
22 in number, rise in and near the village, and are so abundant that nine- 
tenths of the water tlow unused into the Dala. They are chiefly beneficial 
in cases of cutaneous disease. They vary in strength and temperatui-e, the 
Laurence Spring being the most powerful. Their sanatory properties appear 
to depend more on the way in which they are used than on their mineral 
ingredients. The 'cure' takes 25-30 days. The patient begins with a bath 
of half-an-hour, the time of immersion being gradually increased. From 
the 6th to the 16th day the whole body is usually covered with an erup- 
tion, which gradually disappears between the 18th and the 25th day. After 
three weeks the daily immersion is prolonged to 4-5 hrs., 2-3 in the morn- 
ing and 1-2 in the afternoon. After each bath the patient usually lies in 
bed for an hour. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary soak- 
ing, most of the patients, clothed in long flannel dresses, sit in a common 
bath for several hours together, during which the water is not changed. 



toLeuk. INDEN. 53. Route. 181 

Each bather has a small floating table before him, from which his book, 
newspaper, or coffee is enjoyed. The utmost order and decorum are pre- 
served. Private baths may also be obtained (2 fr.). 

Both the Old and the New Bath House now contain separate 
basins for ladies and gentlemen, about 3 ft. deep. Spectators are no 
longer admitted to the galleries, but may survey the scene through 
windows on the ground-floor. The loud and animated conversation of 
the patients , who appear to enjoy excellent spirits , is chiefly in 
French. Both houses also contain shower-baths. All the baths are 
open from 5 to 10 a.m. and from 2 to 5 p.m. 

Excursions. A walk, partially shaded, and affording a fine view, leads 
from the ^ Kurpromenade' to the foot of a lofty precipice (1/2 br.) on the 
left bank of the Dala. Here we ascend by eight rude Ladders (e'chelles), 
attached to the face of the rock, to a good path at the top, which leads in 
1 hr. to the village oi Albinen^ or Arbignon (4252'). The fine view obtained 
from a projecting rock above the second ladder will alone repay the 
climber; but persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent. 
The descent is more difficult. 

Excursions may also be made to the Fall of the Dctla, 1/2 hr. ; Feuil- 
lerette Alp (5850'), Y4 hr., with fine view of the Altels , Balmhorn , and 
Gemmiwand; Fluh Alp (6710'), 21/2 hrs. -, Torrent Alp (6345'), IV2 hr. (For 
longer excursions guides should be brought from Kandersteg.) The °Tor- 
rentfaorn (9852'; 41/2 hrs.) commands a magnificent view of the Bernese and 
Valaisian Alps; bridle-path nearly to the summit (horse 15 fr. ; guide 
desirable, 10 fr.). The route may be varied by descending across the 
Majing Glacier (guide indispensable). Travellers from the Rhone Valley 
save considerably by going direct from the town of Leuk (see below) to 
Albinen , and thence with a guide by Chermignon (6284') to the Torrent- 
horn, whence they may descend to the Baths of Leuk. The descent by the 
above-mentioned ladders , which is usually chosen by the guides, should 
be avoided, especially in wet weather. The Gaimhorn (808U'), near Cher- 
mignon, is also frequently ascended (2'/2 hrs. from the Baths, by the 
Torrent Alp). Those who do not care to ascend higher will be repaid by 
a visit to Chermignon, which aflbrds a capital survey of the Rhone Valley 
and the Valaisian Alps. — Passes : To the Lotschenthal over the Gitzi- 
furgge, or to Kandersteg over the Gitzifurgge and the Lotschen Pass, 
laborious (comp. pp. 182, 183). To the Lotschenthal over the Ferden Pass, 
interesting, and not difficult (comp. p. 182). To Adelboden over the 
Engstligengral (7-8 hrs.), repaying (p. 177). To Lenk over the Lamniern- 
joch (11-12 hrs.), fatiguing (comp. p. 185). 

The road to Leuk crosses the Dala immediately below the Baths, 
descends on the right bank to (3 M.) Inden (3730'; ^Restaurant des 
Alpes), and then recrosses the (I1/2 M.) Dala by a handsome bridge 
(*Inn) affording fine views of the ravine. 

Pedestrians effect a great saving by following the old bridle-path 
to the left from the Restaurant des Alpes. The path rejoins the road 
before the bridge, and again diverges from it to the rigbt, beyond the 
shrine of St. Barbara (2997'; guide-post), l'/4 M. beyond the bridge. By 
this route the walk from the Baths to the railway -station of Leuk- 
Susten takes 2-2'/2 (the ascent 3-3V2) brs. — A direct carriage-road to 
Sierre diverges to the right from the Leuk road, ' -j hr. below Inden 
in the Dala ravine, passing through several tunnels, and gradually descend- 
ing the slope by Varen and Salgesch (to Sierre 2 hrs.). 

The road quits the Dala ravine at a point high above the Rhone 
Valley, of which a beautiful view down to Martigny is disclosed. 
About 3 M. from the Dala bridge we reach ('21/2 M.) — 

1^/2 M. Lenk, or Loeche-]'ille {^2ilO' ; pop. 1545; Couronne), 



182 Route 51. RIED. 

a small town on a height ^/^ M. from the Rhone, with a picturesque 
old castle. The culture of the vine begins here. The road crosses 
the railway and the Rhone by an iron bridge, to the (li/o M.) — 
9 M. Leak Station (2044'; *Rail. Restaurant), see p. 295. 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass. 

Coinp. Map, p. 17 S. 

12 lirs. A steep and rough cart-ruad leads to Goppenstein ; thence 
to Eied and Gletscherstaffel a bridle-path. Guide fi'om Ferden or Eied 
to Kandersteg necessary (15, or from Gampel 20 fr.). This route is fit for 
good walkers only, in fine weather. The Liitschenlhal itself is worthy of 
a visit. 

From Gampel (2756'; Hotel Lijtschenthal) , on the right bank of 
the Rhone, 1 M. to the N. of the station of that name (p. 295), the 
road ascends the Lotschenthal , or gorge of the Lanza, which is 
much exposed to avalanches. Mounting rapidly at first, it passes 
the chapels of (1 hr.) Mitthal and Q/2 hr.) Goppenstein (4085'). 

Beyond Goppenstein the bridle-path crosses the (V4lir-)-^'^'**"' where 
the valley expands, and leads to (Ihr.) Ferden (4557'; poor inn) and 
(1/4 hr.) Kippel^ibii'- bed at the cure's). It then ascends gradually 
by Wiler to (40 min.) Ried (4950'; Hot. Nesthorn, unpretending), 
finely situated at the N.W. base of the Bietschhorn (12,966'). 

Excursions. (Guides, Peter Sigeii, Jos. Riibi, and others.) The Hoh- 
gleifen (Adlerepitze, 10,828' ; 5-6 hrs., with guide) is not difficult. Superb 
view of the Valaisian Alps from the Canton Ticino to Mont Blanc, the 
W. Bernese Alps, the Lotschenthal and Rhone Valley, and to the E. in 
the foreground the huge Bietschhorn. 

The Bietschhorn (Oross- Nesthorn, 12,966'; 9 hrs. , guide GO fr.), first 
ascended hy Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1859 , is very fatiguing and difficult, 
and fit for experts only. The previous night is spent in the Club -hut 
on the Schafberg (8440'), 3 hrs. from Ried. 

Passks. Over the Petersgrat (10,516') to Lauterlrunnen (11 hrs.; 25 fr.), 
fatiguing but highly interesting, see p. 157. — Wetterlucke (10,365') and 
Schmadrijoch (10.863'), difficult, see p. 157. — Over the LolschenlUcke to 
the Eggishoni. p. 3U5; over the Beichpass to the Belalp, p. 297. 

Over the Baltschiederjoch (about 10,200') to the Rhone ViiUey (from 
Ried to Visp 9-10 hrs.) , interesting but fatiguing. — The Bietschjoch 
(10,633'), 8 hrs. from Ried to Raron, is a fine route, free from difficulty. 

From Ried to Bad Leuk over the Ferdkn Pass, 8-9 hrs., with guide, 
a very fine route , and not difficult. At the Ktimmenalp (p. 183) the 
path diverges to the left from the Lotschenpass route and ascends the 
Ferdeiithal to the Ferden Pass (8593'), between the Majinghorn and the 
Ferden-Rothhorn. Descent over long stony slopes to the Fluhalp and through 
the Dcdalhal to Bad Leuk (p. 180). — Over the Gitzifurgge (9613'), 
9-10 hrs. to Bad Leuk, an interesting but laborious route. The pass lies 
to the S.W. of the Lotschen Pass, between the Ferden- Rolhhorn and the 
Balmhorn. Descent over the Bala Glacier to the Fluhalp (see above). — Over 
THE Resti Pass, 7-8 hrs., also interesting (guide 12 fr.). From Ferden we 
ascend over the iJij.s</-yHp (6926'; two beds) in 4 hrs. to the Resti Pass (8658'), 
between the Resti-Rothliorn and the Laucherspitze (see below), and descend 
the Bachalp to the town of Leuk in 3-4 hrs. more. From the pass we may 
easily ascend the (8/4 hr.) Laucherspitze (9400'): admirable view of the 
Alps of Bern and Valais, the Rhone Valley, and the Lotschenthal. — 
To Leuk and Susten over the Faldum Pass (8675'), between the Laucher- 
spitze and the Faldum-Rothhorn (9310'), or over the Niven Pass (8563'), 
between the Faldum-Rothhorn and the Niven (9110'; a fine point of view, 
'/•J hr. from the pass), both easy. 



LOTSCHEN PASS. 54. Route. 183 

TheLotschen Pass is reached from Ried in 3'/2 hrs. by Weissen- 
ried, Lauchernalp, and Sattlegi. Another route ascends from Ferden 
(p. I823 to the N.W. , through beautiful larch-wood and over 
pastures, to the (2 hrs.) Kummenalp (6808'); then over rock, 
de'bris, and patches of snow to the (2 hrs.) Lotschen Pass (_8842'J, 
commanded on the W. by the steep slopes of the Balmhorn (p. 179), 
and on the E. by the Schilthorn, or Hockenhorn (10,817'; ascended 
from the pass in 2^/2 hrs.; splendid view). We obtain the finest view 
on the route a little before reaching the pass itself: to the S.E. 
rises the Bietschhorn, to the S. the magnificent group of the Mi- 
schabel, Weisshorn, and Monte Rosa; to the N. are the rocky but- 
tresses of the Doldenhorn and Bliimlisalp ; to the N.E. the Kander- 
firn, overshadowed by the Mutthorn (9978'). 

The path descends on the right side of the Lotschenberg Glacier ; 
near the end of the glacier it crosses to the left side and leads over 
the Schonbiihl to the (IV4 lir.) GfdUalp (6036'; milk), overlooking 
the upper Gasternthal. At the bottom of the valley we cross the 
Kander to (i/o hr.) Gasterndorf, or Selden (5315'), a group of 
hovels (the first, a small cabaret). The Gasternthal was more thickly 
peopled at the beginning of the century than now; but indiscri- 
minate felling of timber has so exposed it to avalanches that the 
inhabitants have to leave it from February to the hay-harvest. Be- 
yond a beautiful forest, which for centuries has resisted the avalanches 
of the Doldenhorn , we next reach (1 hr.) Gasternholz (4462'), 
amidst a chaos of rocks. The valley bends here and soon expands, 
being bounded on the S. by the snow-clad Altels (11,930') and the 
Tatlishorn (8220'), and on the N. by the Fisistocke (9200'). Of 
the various waterfalls that descend the abrupt cliffs to the S., the 
finest is that of the Geltenbach. 

At the end of the valley the road enters the (1 hr.) Klus, a de- 
file •^/4M. long, through which the Kander forces its way in a series 
of cascades. In the centre of the gorge we cross to the left bank of 
the river, and beyond its outlet we reach the Gemmi route, and (1/2 
hr.) Kandersteg (see p. 178). 

55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl. 

Comp. Maps, pp. Hi, 178, 232, 2$4. 

Diligence from Thun to Lenk (33'/j M.) daily in 8 Lr.s. C9 fr. 75 c., 
coupe 12 fr. ; one-horse carr. 35 , two-horse 60 fr.). From Lenk to Sion 
(10'/2 hrs.) a Bridle Path, good on the Bern side, but rough on the other. 
Guide desirable (to Sion 20 fr.). The Gemini is far preferable to the Ra- 
wyl as a route to the Valais. 

To (251/2 M.) Zweisimmen , see pp. 186-187. The Lenk road 
crosses the Simme near Gwatt , and ascends the Upper Simmenthal 
by Bettelried, passing Schloss Blankenburg on the right (p. 187), 
to the prettily situated (3 M.) St. Stephan (3297'; Falke); then 
to Grodei, Matten, at the mouth of the Fermelthal (p. 186), and 
(5M.) — 



184 Route 55. LENK. From Thun 

331/2 M. Lenk (3527'; *Hirsch ,■ 'Krone, R. & A. 27.2, B. 1 fr. 20 c. , 
pens. 6 fr.; *Stern, pens. 5 fr. ; Kreuz), a village rebuilt to a great 
extent since a fire in 1878, situated in a flat and somewhat marshy 
part of the valley of the Simme. About 1/2 M. to the S.W. (path 
in 7 min.), lies the *KuranstaU Lenk (3624'; R. , L. , & A. 41/4, 
board 6-7 fr.) , with sulphur baths and grounds. The Wildstrubel 
(10,670'), with its huge precipices and its patches of snow, whence 
several streams descend, forms a grand termination to the valley. 

Excursions. (Guides, Chr. and Joh. Jac. Jaggi.) The Himme rises, 
4 M. to the S. of Lenk , in the so-called Siebenhrunnen , to which an 
interesting walk may be taken (4 hrs. there and back). Road by Oberried 
(passing on the left an isolated nummulite rock with a 'Gletschermiihle', 
and view of the Wildhorn) to (IV4 lir.) Stalden (4232'), at the foot of 
the falls of the Simme. A path now ascends in front of the saw-mill, 
between alders , describing a curve on the right bank of the stream, and 
skirting a deep gorge with fine waterfalls. It passes two chalets, traverses 
pastures , and crosses the brook to (^4 lii".) the chalets of the K&zli- 
berg (4583'; Fridig's Inn, small). To the S., the ^ Seven Fountains' (4744'j, 
now united into a single stream, issue from the perpendicular rocks. 
Farther on, to the left, is the Upper Fall of the Simme, which is con- 
spicuous from a long distance. To the right rise the Gletsdierhorn (9672') 
and Laiifbodenhorn (8878'), to the left the Ammertenhorn (8740'). 

The Oberlaubhorn (6570'), rising to the W. of the Riizliberg, is fre- 
quently ascended from Lenk either by Trogegg in S'/zhrs., or hy Poschen- 
ried and the liitzberg Alp (6T10') in 4 hrs., with guide; back by the Riizli- 
berg, Stalden, and Oberried. — The *Miilkerblatt (6355') is well worth 
ascending for the fine view of the Wildstrubel, etc. (2'/2 hrs.). Beyond 
the Kurhaxis we ascend on the left bank of the Erummbacli, (10 min.) cross 
it, traverse pastures and wood, passing many chalets, and mount the 
Bettelberg to the top. 

The Iffigensee (6826'), 31/2 brs., is also worth seeing. By the (2 hrs.) 
Iffigen Inn (see below) we turn to the right to the (V2 br.) Stieren-Jffigenalp 
(5512'; refreshmts.). The path, steep and stony at places, then ascends 
to the (1 hr.) saddle which bounds the lake, and leads round its bank 
to the right (where Edelweiss abounds) to the (V4 br.) humble chalet at 
the W. end. — At the base of the Niesenhorn (9113'), ^jt hr. higher up, 
is the unpretending Wildhorn Club Hut (about 7880'), from which the 
Wildhorn (10,706') is ascended in 2'/2-3 hrs. (laborious and lit for experts 
only: guide from Lenk 25, porter 18 fr.). The route ascends the moraine 
of the Dungel Glacier, and the steep and toilsome E. slope of the Kirchli 
(9157') to the top of the glacier, whence a gentle incline leads to the summit. 
Splendid view of the Jura, the Schwarzwald, the TiJdi, Mte. Leone, Mte. 
Rosa, Jit. Blanc, Site. Viso, and particularly of the Plaine Morte on the 
Wildstrubel, and of the Diablerets. Descent, if preferred, to the S. by 
the Glacier du Brozet to the HOtel Sanetsch at Zanjleuron {Vji-Z hrs. ; 
see p. 233). 

The "Rohrbachstein (9690'; 61/2 hrs., with guide) is a capital point 
of view, free from difficulty. From the (4 hrs.) Rawyl Pass (p. 185) 
we turn to the left and mount to the (iV2 l»r.) saddle between the Rohr- 
bachstein and the Wetzsteinhorn, and to the summit in 1 hr. more. Fossils 
found here. 

The Wildstrubel (W. peak 10,670'; central peak 10,667'; E. peak 
10,676') is best ascended from the Rawyl Pass. From the Iffigen Inn, where 
the night is spent, to the Rawyl 2 hrs.; we then ascend to the left to the 
height between the Weisshorn and the Rohrbachstein (2V2 hrs.) , cross 
the Glacier de la Plaine Morte, and mount the slopes of a snow-arete to 
the W. summit in 2'/2 hrs., and the central peak in '/2 hr. more (from 
Iffigen 7'/2 hrs. in all). From the Riizliberg (see above) a steep path 
ascends the FliOmdnde above the Siebenbrunnen to the (2 hrs.) lonely 
Fluhseeli (6710'); thence over debris, moraine, and the Ruzli Glacier 



to Sion. THE RAWYL. 55. Route. 185 

to the W. peak (A hrs.). — A third route ftoilsome) ascends steeply from 
the (2'/2 hrs.) Ritzberg Alp (p. 184; bed of hay) to the Lau/bodenhoi-n 
(8878'); then close past the summit to the Thierherg Glacier, and past 
the Gletscherhorn (9672') to the snow -slope of the Riizli Glacier to the 
W. and the central peak (S hrs. from Ritzberg). Descent by the Ammerten 
Glacier difficult. f>ver the Lcimmern Glacier to the Gemmi, see below. 

From Lenk to Gsteig (7 hrs.) : over the Triiltlisberg (6713') to (4'/2 hrs.) 
Lauenen (p. 233) , and thence over the Krinnen (.5463') to &I2 hrs.) Gsteig 
(p. 233). Path bad at places (guide 10-12 fr.), see R. 66. 

From Lenk to Saanen (p. 188) 6 hrs., path over the Revlissenherg or 
Zwitzer Egg (5636'), and down the Turbachthal. — To Adelboden over the 
JJahnenmoos , see p. 177. Over the Ammerten Pass (S032'), to the S.E. of 
the Ammertengrat (8580'), interesting (7 hrs., with guide). 

From Lenk to the Gemmi over the Lammernjoch (10,275') 10-11 hrs., 
toilsome. From the Siebenbrunnen the route leads past the Fluhseeli to 
the Razli Glacier (p. 184), and to the left over the Wildstvubel Glacier 
to the Joch, lying close below the W. peak of the Wildstrubel (p. 184; 
ascended from the pass in V2 hr.). Descent over the crevassed Lamm,erii 
Glacier to the Gemmi (p. 179). Or we may ascend from the Rawyl Pass 
over the Glacier de la Plaine ilorte to the Joch, a longer route, but less 
steep (p. 184). 

The Rawyl Route (at first a carriage-road) gradually ascends 
on the W. side of the valley to (IV4 M.) the left hank of the If- 
figenbach and the pleasant Poschenr led- Thai. The road ends 2 M. 
farther on. By the (5 min.) Iffigenfall (4483' at the hase) the 
bridle-path ascends to the right. After 20 min. we turn , above 
the fall, into a wooded valley, through which the Ifflgenbach 
dashes over its narrow rocky bed, and traverse a level dale (with the 
precipices of the Rawyl on the left) to the (1/2 hr.) Iffigenalp 
(5253'; rustic Inn, dear). Here we turn sharply to the left (finger- 
post), ascend through a small wood on a stony slope , skirt the face 
of a cliff, cross (10 min.) a brook, and reach (50 min.) a stone hut 
on a height overlooking the Simmenthal. We next skirt the W. side 
of the small (8/4 hr.) Rawyl-See (7743') and reach (1/4 hr.) a cross (la 
Grande Croix) which marks the boundary of Bern and Valais and the 
summit of the Rawyl (7943'; 41/4 hrs. from Lenk), with a refuge- 
hut adjacent. The pass consists of a desolate stony plateau (Plan 
des RosesJ, enclosed by lofty and partially snow-clad mountains : 
to the W. the long Mittaghorn (8842'); S.W., the Schneidehorn 
(9640') and the snow -clad Wildhorn (10,706'; p. 184); S., the 
hvoa.i Rawylhorn (9541') and the Wetzsteinhorn (9114'); E., the 
Rohrbachstein (dQ90' ; p. 184); N.E., the extremities of the glaciers 
of the Weisshorn (9882'). 

Beyond the pass the path is bad. It passes a second small 
lake, and (8/4 hr.) reaches the margin of the S. slope, which affords 
a limited, but striking view of the mountains of the Valais. 
It descends a steep rocky slope (leaving the dirty chalets of Ar- 
millon, 6926', to the left), and ('/.2 hr.) crosses a bridge in the 
valley (5970' ; a good spring here). Instead of descending to the 
left to the chalets of (i^hr.) Nieder- Rawyl (Ft. les Ravins. 5768'), 
we ascend slightly by a narrow path to the right, and skirt the 
hill-side. Then (25 min.) a steep ascent, to avoid the Kiindle (see 



186 Route 56. AVEISSENBURG. 

below); 20min., a cross on the top of tlie hill (6330'), ■whence we 
again descend to ('/'i'T.) Praz Combeira (5344'), a group of huts; 
and lastly a long, fatiguing descent by a rough, stony path, as- 
cending at places, to (1 1/2 hr.) Ayent (3400'; 3^/4 hrs. froui the 
pass ; Inn of the cure, good wine). 

The footpath from Kieder-Rawyl to Ayent, shorter by I hr., leads by 
the so-called 'Kandle' (i.e. channel), Fr. Sender du Bisse, along the edge 
of a water-conduit skirting a steep slope 1300' in height. Being little more 
than 1' in breadth, the path is only practicable for persons with steady heads. 

The path, -which now improves, next leads by Orimisuat (2894'; 
Ger. Grimseln) and Champlan to (2 hrs.) Sion (p. 294; IO1/2 hrs. 
from Lenk). 

56. From Thun through the Simmenthal to Saanen.'' 

34V-2 M. Diligence twice daily (S a. m. and 12 noon) direct to Saanen 
in 8V2 hrs. (fare 9 fr. 35, coup^ llfr. 55c.); another to Zweisimmen daily 
at 4 p.m. in 5 hrs. 40 min. — One-horse carr. to Zweisimmen 28, two- 
horse 50 fr., to Saanen 35 or 60, to Chateau d'Oex 40 or 70, to Aigle 80 or 
150 fr. 

The road skirts the Lake of Thun as far as (3 M.) Owatt(yich'Af\e ; 
Post), where the Spiez road diverges to the left, and gradually 
ascends towards the Niesen (p. 142). On a hill to the right rises the 
slender tower of StrdttUgen (p. 141). At the bottom of the valley 
flows the Kander , in an artificial channel. The road follows its 
left bank, and then the left bank of the Simme, which falls into the 
Kander near Reutigen, a prettily situated place. 

6 M. Brothiisi (*IIirsch), with a picturesque old castle on the 
hill-side. (To the E., 1 M., lies the substantial village of Wimmis, 
p. 142.) The road passes through a defile (Porte) between the Sim- 
menfluh and the Burgfluh into the Simmentlial (locally called the 
Sicbenthat), a fertile valley with numerous villages. 

8I/2 M. Latterbach (2303'; Biir). To the S. is the Diemtigthal. 

Fkom Lattekbacii to Matten a shorter , but uninteresting route 
(7 hrs.) leads through the Diemtigthal. At Latterbach it crosses the Simme 
and follows the right banli of the Kirel (passing the village of Diemtigen 
on the hill to the right) and then the left bank to Wampfen and (2V4 hrs.) 
Tschnepis (3763') , where the valley divides into the Mdniggrund to the 
right and the Schwendenthul to the left. We follow the latter, which 
after 'A hr. again divides at Waritannen (3970'). The path now diverges 
from the road, ascends to the W. through the Grimhaclithnl to the (2 hrs.) 
Grimmi (6644'), a little-frequented pass, and descends through the fertile 
FermcUhal to (2 hrs.) M((Uen (p. 183). 

10 M. Erlenbacli(2320'; *Krone; *Lowe'), with well-built wood- 
en houses. 

The Stockhorn (7195') is sometimes ascended hence by experts in 
4'/? hrs. ; better from Thun, by Ainsoldingen and Ober-Stocken (*Bar, rustic) 
in 5V2hrs., or from Blitmenftein (p. 141) by the Wahlalp in 4 hrs.; descent, 
if preferred, by the Wahlalp to Bad Weissen'huvg, which is reached by means 
of ladders. Splendid flora and grand view. 

141/2 M. Weissenburg (2418'; *miel Weissenbourg, R. & A. 
21/2 fr-)) * group of neat]houses. 



ZWEI81MMEN. 56. Route. 1 87 

In a stepp gorge, so narrow at places as alm<ist to exclude the sun, 
about l'/4 M. to the N.W., lies the favourite "Weissenburg-Bad, or 
BunscM-Bad (2770'; a drive of 20 min., fur which 4 fr. are demanded). 
The mineral water, impregnated with sulphate of lime (70"; at its 
source 81°), and beneficial for bronchial affections, is used exclusively 
for drinking. The Neue Bad, situated in a sheltered basin, consists of 
two large houses (reading and billiard rooms ; post and telegraph office ; 
pens. IOV2-I3 fr., D. 31/2, warm bath Vjz fr.) ; the Alte Bad, buried in 
the ravine '/2 M. higher up, is inferior (pension 5-7 fr.). The baths, with 
the extensive pine-forests round them, belong to Messrs. Hausev. 

From Weissenburg to the Gurnigelbad (6 hrs.) Attractive path 
through the Khix, passing the Morget enbachfnll, 200' high, and the Mov- 
getenalp to the (S'/s hrs.) Biirglen- Battel (6434'J ; then down (passing Bad 
Sclacefelberg, l'/4 M. to the left) to the Oantrist Pass (5217'), with a charm- 
ing view, and over the Obere Gurnigel to the (I'/i hr.) Gurnigelbad (p. 141). 

201/2 M.Boltigen (2726'; *H6t. Imohersteg,Bnr, both moderate), 
a thriving village with handsome houses, is reached beyond the 
Simmenegg, or Enge, a defile formed by two rocks between which 
the road passes. Above the village rise the two peaks of the Mittag- 
fluh (6198'). To the left peep the snow-fields to the E. of the Rawyl 
(p. 185). The coal-mines in a side-valley near Reidenbach (2756'; 
3/4 M. from Boltigen) account for the sign of the inn (a miner). 

From Reidenbach to Bdlle , 24 M. , a new road. A little above 
Reidenbach it diverges to the right and ascends in numerous windings 
(which footpaths cut oQ") to the (6 M.) pass of the Bruchberg (4941'). It 
then descends gradually (preferable to the bad footpath) to (3 M.) Jaun, 
Fr. Bellegarde (3336'; Hot. de la Cascade , poor), a pretty village with a 
waterfall 86' high. (Path to the Sckicarzsee-Bad by Neuschels, 3 hrs., see 
below.) [A cart-track to the S. ascends on the left bank of the Jaunbach 
to (IV2 br.) Abldntscfien (4280'; Inn), at the foot of the bore rocky chain 
of the Gastlose (6542'). Easy passes thence over the G'rubenberg (5413'), to 
the S. of the Dent de Ruth (7674'), to (3 hrs.) !?aanen, and over the Schliindi. 
to (2' 2 hrs.) Reich enstein (see below).] We next traverse the beautiful 
pastures of the Jaunthal or Bellegarde Vallet/, which yield excellent 
Gruyere cheese (p. 183), and the picturesque D^fiU de la Tzintre to 
(7'/2 M.) Charmey, Ger. Galims (2957'; 'Tanne; Stern), a well-to-do village 
and a summer resort, charmingly situated. Fine view from the church. 
The road next passes Cr^sns , C'hdtel, and the ruin o( Montsalvens (ruTe. 
flora), crosses the Jaun, and beyond Broc (Pens, de la Grue), the Sarine, 
and leads through wood to La Tour-de-Treme (p. 235) and 0\'-i M.) Bvlle 
(p. 235). — From Cre'sus (see above) a pleasant route leads by Cerniat and 
the old monastery of Valsainfe , and over the Col de Ch^salettes (4659') to 
the (31/2 hrs.) Schicavzsee-Bad (p. 201). On the Kalte Sense, 4 hrs. to the 
N.E. of the Schwarzsee, are the sequestered but well-kept Baths of Sell we/el - 
berg (4573'), with springs impregnated with lime, whence a bridle-path 
crosses the Gantrist Pass (see above) to (2V2 brs.) Bad BHtmenstein (p. 141). 

The road crosses the Simme at (2M.) Garstatt and turns suddenly 
round the Laubeggstalden rock, passing a fine waterfall. We recross 
the stream and pass the ruined castle of Mannenbera to (3 M.) — 

251/2 M. Zweisimmen (3215' ; pop. 2222 4'Krone, R., L., & A. 
33/4, B. 11/2, I^- 3 fr. ; *n6t. Simmenthal ; Bar), the chief village 
in the valley, with an old church, situated in a broad basin on the 
Kleine Simme. Pleasant views from the churchyard , and from 
Sehloss Blankenburg , now containing public offices and a prison, 
1/2 hr. to the S.E. (p. 183). 

The road ascends gradually for 5 M., crossing the Schlundibach 



188 Route 56. SAANEN. 

at (3'/2 M.) Reichenstein. (To Abldntschen, see above.) In a pine- 
clad valley on the left flows the Kleine Simme , and the road 
crosses five or six deep lateral ravines. At the top of the hill 
(4227'; Inn) begin the Saanen-Moser , a broad Alpine valley, 
sprinkled with innumerable chalets and cottages. A striking view 
is gradually disclosed of the frowning Riiblihorn (7570'), the baro- 
meter of the surrounding country (comp. p. 94), the serrated Oum- 
/Z«/i (8068'), the snow-fields oi the Sanetsch beyond it, and lastly 
the huge Gelten Glacier (p. 233) to the left. Lower down we ob- 
tain a fine survey of the Turbach , Lauenen , and Gsteig valleys 
(p. 233). 

341/2 M. Saanen, Fr. Gessenay (3382'; pop. 3730; Grand 
Logis, or Gross-Landhaus, dear; Ours, plain), is the capital of the 
upper valley of the Saane (Sarine). The inhabitants rear cattle and 
manufacture the famous Gruyere and Vacherm cheese. 

To Gsteig, and over the Col de Pillon to Aigle, see p. 233; over the 
Sanetsch to Sion, see p. 233. 

From Saanen to Chateau d'Oex (p. 237) 7 M. ; diligence twice daily 
in ii/3 hr., by Rotigemont, or Rothenberg ("Pens. Cottier, prettily situated, 
reasonable), the frontier between cantons Bern and Vand, where the 
language changes from German to French, and Flendruz. 



IV. WESTERN SWITZERLAND. LAKE OF GENEVA. 
LOWER VALLEY OF THE RHONE. 



57. From Bern to Neuchatel 190 

Isle of St. Peter; Chasseral, 190. — Chaumont, 192. 

58. From Neuchatel to Cliaux-de-Fonds and Locle . . . 193 

Tete de Rang; Col des Loges, 193. — From Conver.s to 
Bienne through the Val St. Imier, 193. — Cotes du Doub.s ; 
Moulin de la Mort, 194. — From Locle to Morteau ; Col 
des Roches; Lac des Brenets; Saut du Doubs, 194, 195. 

59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through theValdeTravers 195 

Creux du Van. Ravine of the Raisse, 196. 

60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 197 

Gorges de la Reuse, 197. — Chasseron, 198. 

61. From Bern to Lausanne ('Fevej/J 199 

From Flamatt to Laupen , 199. — From Freiburg to 
Payerne and Yverdon. Schwar/.seebad; Berra , 201. — 
From Romont to Bulle, 201. — Signal de Chexbres ; from 
Chexbres to Vevey, 202. 

62. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 202 

From Morat to Neuchatel. From Aarberg to Bern, 204. 

63. From Lausanne to Vallorhe and Pontarlier 204 

From Romainmotier to Le Pont, 204. — Lac de Joux; 
Dent de Vaulion. From Le Pont to Le Brassus, 205. 

64. Geneva and Environs . 205 

Bois de la Batie ; Ferney ; Saleve; Voirons, etc., 215. 

65. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne andVilleneuve. 
Lake of Geneva (North Bank) 216 

Divonne ; the Dole, 218. — Signal de Bougy ; Gimel ; 
Col de Marchairuz, 219. — From Lausanne to Echal- 
lens, 222. — Hauteville and Bh)nay ; the Pleiades, 223. 
— Excursions from Montreux : Glion ; Gorge du Chau- 
deron; Rocher de Naye; Les Avants, etc., 226. — From 
Aigle to Villars; Chamossaire ; Corbeyrier, 229. — From 
Bex to Les Plans, 230. — Baths of Lavey; Morcles, 231. — 
Pissevache ; Gorge du Trient, 231. — Arpille ; Pierre-a- 
Voir, 232. 

66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon .... 232 

The Lauenenthal. From Gsteig to Sion over the Sanetsch, 

233. — Excursions fromOrmont Dessus; Creux-de-Champ, 
Palette, Oldenhorn, Diableret, etc., 234. — From Ormont 
Dessus to Villars or Grycm over the Pas de la Croix, 

234. — Pic de Chaussy ; Leysin, 234. 

67. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 234 

Ascent of the Mole'son from Bulle or Albeuve, 235. — 
From Montbo von over the Jaman to Montreux or Vevey, 236. 

68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 237 

69. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of 
Geneva (South Bank). Val d'llliez 239 

From Thonon to Samoens. Valley of the Drance, 239. — 
The Blanchard. From St. Gingolph to Port-Valais and to 
Vouvry, 240. — Grammont, 241. — Excursions from Cham- 
pery: Culet; Dent du Midi ; Tour Sallieres; Dents Blan- 
ches. FromChampery to Samoens, Sixt, or Vernayaz(Col3 
de Coux, de la Golese", de Sagerou, de Clusanfe), 241, 242. 



13 



190 

57. From Bern to Neuchatel. 

41 M. Railway in 13/4-2V4 lirs. (fares 7 fr. 16, 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 80 c). 

Bern see p. 133; from Bern to (21 M.) Bienne see p. 11. 
(Miinsterthal Railway to Bale see R. 2; by St. Imier to Chaux-de- 
Fonds see p. 193.) Near the beautiful avenues, to the S.W. of 
Bienne, the train reaches the Lake of Bienne (1424'; 91/2 M. long, 
2'/2 M- broad). As the train skirts the W. bank, we obtain a very 
pleasing view of the lake, enhanced in clear weather by the magni- 
ficent chain of the Bernese Alps. — Beyond (27'/2 M.) Douanne, 
Ger, Ticann(*Bar), we pass a fall of the Twannbach. 29 M. Gleresse, 
Gar. Ligerz. 

To the left, in the lake, lies the Isle of St. Peter, clothed with 
beautiful old oaks, vineyards, and fruit-trees, where Rousseau spent two 
months in 17G5. (The so-called 'Schaffnerhaus'', in which his room is 
shown, is now a good inn.) Boat from Twann or from Ligerz, there and 
back, 4, from Neuveville 6 fr. A steamboat also plies from Neuveville 
to Cerlier and the Isle of St. Peter. — The lake having been lowered by 
the construction of an artificial channel for the lower Zihl, the island of 
St. Peter is now connected on the S. side with the smaller Kaninchen- 
Jnsel , and with the mainland near Cerlier (see below). 

30 Y2 M. Neuveville, Ger. Neuenstadt (*Faucon; Trois Poissons), 
a pleasant little town (2357 inh.), the last in Canton Bern, is 
the first place where French is spoken. The Museum, near the 
station (adm. 50c.), and the house of Dr. Gross contain interesting 
antiquities from the lake-dwellings and the Burgundian wars. On the 
iSc/iio?s6ery(1752'), 20min. from the station, stands a ruined castle of 
the Bishops of Bale (fine view from the top and on the way up), 
near which the Beon forms a waterfall (often dry in summer). 

To the N. of Neuveville rises the (4 hrs.) *Chasseral (5280'; Chalet- 
Hdtel du Chasseral, with 20 beds, at the top, fair), or Gesiler, in three 
terraces, studded on the S. side with numerous villages amid green 
meadows. The view, grander than from the Weissenstein (p. 15), embraces 
W. Switzerland, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and the Alps. — The ascent 
may be made from Bienne (p. 11) in 5-6 hrs.; from St. Imier in 2V2-3 hrs. ; 
(see p. 193). 

The old town of Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours), lies opposite Neuveville, at 
the N. foot of the wooded Jolimont (1980'; V* ^r.), a charming point of 
view. The 'Teufelsbiirde' is a group of large erratic blocks on the sum- 
mit. — Near Cerlier on the E. bank of the lake, at Liischerz, and at 
MSrigen, farther N., numerous remains of ancient lake-dwellings have been 
discovered. 

Near (33 M.) Landeron we quit the Lake of Bienne; the little 
town lies on the left; farther E. rises the Jolimont (see above). 
341/2 M. Cressier, with its church on a lofty rock; 351/2 M. Cornaux. 
Beyond a tunnel the train reaches (38 M.) St. Blaise, skirts the 
slope of the mountain, and beyond another tunnel affords a survey 
of the Lake of Neuchitel (1427'), which it soon reaches. The 
lake, the Roman Lacus Eburodunensis , the level of which has 
lately been lowered 6' by the enlargement of its outlet, is 25 M. 
long and 4-6 M. broad (greatest depth 500'). Near the N.E. end 
the Thiile or Zihl emerges from the lake. The smiling, vine- 
clad W. bank , above which rise the abrupt Jura Mts., affords an 



NEUCHATEL. 57. Route. 191 

extensive view , from the Bernese Alps to Mont Blanc ; but the 
lake itself is far inferior in beauty to those of the higher Alps. 

41 M. Neuch&tel. — Railway Station on the hillside above the 
town, 1 M. from the lake. Persons bound for the museum or other points 
in the N. part of the town may descend the path and steps to the left, 
but the main road leads to the hotels on the lake. — Steamboat on the 
Lake of Neuchatel, see pp. 197, 204. 

Hotels. 'Bellevhe, in an open situation on the lake, R., L., & A. 4-5, 
D. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; Gkand Hot. dd Lac , near the lake, R., L., & A. 
from 3V2, D- 3'/2, omnibus ^/t fr. — Second-class : Hot. des Alpes, at the 
station, mediocre; Faocon, R. 2-3, D. 2V2 fr. ; "Hot. dd SoLtiL and 
"Hot. dd Commerce, near the post-office, commercial; Coukonne; Hot. 
DD Port. — Pens. Borel (Villa Surville) , well situated above the town, 
pens. 4-6 fr., R. extra; Pension Knort, with fine view, pens. & R. 5 fr. 

Cafes. Beer at the Tonlialie, at the upper end of the Rue du Seyon, 
and the Brasserie Strauss, next the Hotel du Lac. Cercle dti Musie, in 
the Palais Dupeyrou (p. 192; a club to which strangers are admitted). 
Several other cafes at the harbour. — Rail. Restaurant, D. 2V2 fr. 

Neuchdtel (1433'; 16,190 inh.j, Ger. Neuenburg, the capital of 
the canton of that name (formerly a principality of the Orange 
family, under Prussian sway from 1707 to 1815, when it joined the 
Confederation, and finally given up by Prussia in 1857), is charm- 
ingly situated on the Lake of Neuchatel, at the base and on the 
slopes of the Jura. The modern part of the town, with its handsome 
houses, grounds, and *Quay a mile long, lies on the lake, occupying 
a strip of land partly formed by the deposits brought down by the 
Seyon from the Chasseral. It commands a fine view of the Alps 
from Pilatus to Mont Blanc. In 1839, in order to gain building 
room, the Seyon was carried into the lake above the town by means 
of the Tunnel de la Trouee du Seyon, 176 yds. long. 

The Ca-i.TEAU, on the hill above the town, the oldest part of 
which, dating from the Burgundian period, was restored in 1866, 
is now the seat of the cantonal government. Near it is the *Temple 
Dv Haut [Collegiale; key at 6 Rue du Chateau), an abbey-church 
of the 12th century. The choir contains a handsome Gothic monu- 
ment with 15 life-size figures, erected in 1372 by Count Louis of 
Neuchatel, and restored in 1840. There are also memorial-stones 
to the Prussian governor General v. Zastrow (d. 1836), and the 
reformer Farel (d. 1565). — The Place in front of the church is 
adorned with a Statue of Farel, erected in 1875. The terrace on 
the N.E. side of the church affords a fine survey of the lake and 
the Bernese Alps. The cloisters on the W. side, rebuilt after a fire 
in 1450, were restored in 1860-70. 

The College, on the lake , contains a valuable natural history 
collection, founded by Agassiz (p. 174) andCoulon, a public library 
(100,000 vols), antiquities from lake-dwellings , etc. (open Sun. 
and Thurs. 2-4). A little to the S. rises a bronze statue, erected 
in 1855, of David de Purry (d. 1786), a native of Neuchatel, who 
bequeathed 41/2 million francs to the town. The Halles, a pictur- 
esque Renaissance edifice of 1590, stand in the neighbouring Place 
des Halles. 



192 Route 57. NEUCHATEL. 

On the lake, farther to the N., beyond the College Municipal, is 
the new *Mu8ke dks Bbaux-Arts, a handsome Renaissan(;e build- 
ing, containing an interesting Collection of Antiquities on the 
groundfloor, and the municipal Picture Gallery, a collection chiefly 
of modern Swiss works, on the first floor (adm. to each collection 
50 c, free on Sun. 1-4 and Thurs. 10-12). 

Two rooms at the entrance contain portraits of Prussian Kings from 
Frederick I. to Frederick William I,V., and numerous other reminiscences 
of the period of Prussian rule. The finest works in the next rooms 
are: Anker: Sunday afternoon; ''Retreat of the French army under 
Bourliaki, in Feb. 1871 ; A. H. Bevthoud, The Junglrau, Euin of Weis- 
senau; L. Bevthoud, Crossing the Tiber, The Frohnalp ; F. Berthoud, 
Young Savoyard; Calaiiie, Roscnlaui Glacier, *Monte Rosa; Coripel, Rinaldo 
and Armida; Buntze, Alpine scene in winter; K. Girardet, 'Huguenot 
assembly surprised by Kom. Cath. soldiers, Cromwell reproached by his 
daughter Mrs. Claypole fur the condemnation of Charles I., Old Franciscan 
monastery at Alexandria, Landscape in the Val de Travers; E. Girardet, 
A father's blessing. The confession; /. Girardet, Retreat of Bourbaki; 
Gleyre , Hercules and Omphale; Grosclaudc, The Doge Marino Falieri, 
'Vive le vin de 1834' ; Isabey, Sea-piece ; Jacqtiand, Arrest of Rousseau in 
1762; Jeanmaire , Fir-trees and cattle; A. de Meuron, Piazza in Capri, 
The Bernina Pass, Pasture near Iseltwald , Interior of St. Mark's at Ve- 
nice; M. de Meuron, View of Rome with the Baths of Caracalla, Modern 
Rome, The Walensee, The Linththal near Nafels, The great oak, Italian 
shepherd. Fir-trees and cattle; Morifz , Henry II. of Longueville in the 
chateau of Culombier; L. Robert, 'Basilica of S. Paolo Fuori le Mura near 
Rome after the lire of 1823, Roman oxen, 'Fishermen of the Adriatic, 
Improvisatore (unfinished); Robert Fleury , Scene at the Massacre of St. 
Bartholomew; Cli. Tschaggeny, Flemish bridal procession of the 17th cent.; 
E. Tschaggeny, Mother and child pursued by a bull ; C. Vernet, Bivouac of 
Cossacks. — Also a number of casts, water-colours, drawings, and engra- 
vings. In a room by themselves are works by Leopold Robert, copied in 
various styles by his brother Aurele. 

Next the museum is an interesting ^Sepulcre Prehistorique' , 
discovered among the lake - dwellings at Auvernier in 1876. 
A little to the N. is the new Academy. — Near the museum, 1/4 M. 
from the lake, is the Palais Rouyemont or Dupeyrou, with a pleasant 
garden. On the ground-floor is the Cercle du Musee (p. 191). At 
the back is a building containing the Musee Challande, a collection 
of stuffed Alpine animals (1 fr.). 

The Observatory , erected for the benefit of the watch-manu- 
facturers, is in telegraphic communication with Chaux-de-Fonds and 
Locle fp. 194). The adjoining Mail, a grass-plot planted with 
trees, commands a charming view of the lake and the Alps. 

Neuchatel is noted for its charitable institutions, such as tlie 
Municipal Hospital , founded by David de Purry (p. 191) , the 
Pourtales Hospital , near the Bern gate , and the Prefargier Lunatic 
Asylum, 3 M. from Neuchatel, erected by M. de Meuron in 1844. 

The -Chaumont (3845'; 'Hotel de C/iavmont, a large house near the top, 
3700', pens. 6-9 fr. ; IlOtel du Chateau, lower down, 3 min. to the S.E. ; 
Eng. Church Service in summer), a spur of the Jura, rising to the N., is 
the finest point of view near Neuchatel. The road to it diverges from the 
Chaux-de-Fonds road, l'/4 M. from Neuchatel, and leads to the top in IV2 hr. 
(diligence twice a day in summer, up 2, down I'/z fr. ; carr. with one 
horse 10, with two horses 20 fr.). Near the hotels at the top are a chapel 
and a schoolhouse. The view from the Signal, 15 min. above the hotels 



LES HAUTS-GENEVEYS. 58. Route. 193 

(indicator of the Swiss Alpine Club at the top by Imfeld) embraces the 
lakes of Neuchatel and Jlorat , and the Alpine chain from the Sentis to 
Mont Blanc in the background. The afternoon light is best, but a perfectly 
clear horizon is rare. A charming view of the Val de Ruz and the Jura, 
to the W., is obtained from the (1/4 hr.) Pri Louisei. — An attractive route, 
following the mountain-ridge the whole way , via La Dame and Chuff art 
(guide advisable), leads in 4 hrs. from the Chaumont to the Chasseral (p. 
190). — Nearer the town there are pleasant wood-walks: to the Roche de 
VErmilage, Pierre ti Sot, Gorges du Seyon, Chanilaz (p. 197), etc. — -Gorges 
de la Reuse, see p. 197; ~2'<^(e de Rang, see below. — Numerous Celtic 
remains have been found at La Tine, near Marin (Pens. Jfussle', moderate), 
not far from St. Blaise (p. 190). 

58. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle. 

Railwat (Jura, Bern, d- Lucerne) from Neuchatel via Chaux-de-Fonds 
to (23'/2 M.) Locle in 2i/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 10, 3 fr. 15 c). This 
route, as far as Les Hauts-Geneveys, is very attractive; views to the left. 

Neuchdtel, p. 191. The train skirts the slopes behind the town 
and the castle, at first running parallel to the Lausanne line, crosses 
the Seyon, and beyond a tunnel of 748 yds. affords a superb *View 
of the lake and the Alps , which improves as we ascend (Bernese 
Alps to theE.; Mont Blanc to the S.). 3 M. CorceUes (1880'). 
Two tunnels. 

7 M. Chambrelien , beautifully situated almost perpendicularly 
above the valley of the Reuse (p. 195). Fine view near the Buffet. 
The train backs out from the station towards the N.E. and skirts a 
wooded chain of hills. To the right is the fertile Fai de Ruz, watered 
by the Seyon, with its numerous villages , above which rises the 
Chaumont (p. 192). 

101/2 M. Les Oeneveys-sur-Coffrane (2870'). Then (I21/2 M.) 
Les Hauts-Geneveys (3135'), the highest point of view on the 
line, where Mont Blanc becomes very conspicuous. 

The "Tete de Rang (46G8'; Inn), ascended in IV4 hr. from Hauts- 
Geneveys (by a lane to the left, 10 min. beyond the village) , commands 
a magnificent and extensive view of the Jura westwards to the plateau of 
Langres, of the Vosges , and of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont Blanc 
and the mountains of Geneva. — A path leads hence along the hill to 
the Col des Loges (4220'; 'Hotel a la Viie des Alpes), on the road from 
Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds. View similar, but less extensive. Descent 
either to (I'/i M.) Hauts-Geneveys or to (3 M.) Chaux-de-Fonds. 

The train passes through a tunnel, 2 M. long (7min.), under the 
Col des Loges to (16 M.) Les Convers, a solitary station in a rock- 
girt valley, 1 M. from the village of that name. 

From Convers to Bienne, 30 M., railway in I1/2 hr. (4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 
40, 2 fr. 40 c). The line traverses the industrious Val St. Imier, watered 
by the Suze or Schenss, and passes the village of Les Convers. 7 M. Renan; 
9'/2 M. Sonvilier, with the picturesque ruins of the castle of Erguel on a 
pine-clad rock. 11 M. St. Imier (2670'; 7114 inh. ; Cowonne; ffdt. de Ville; 
'Hot. des Treize Cantons), capital of the valley, with considerable watch- 
manufactories. (Ascent of the C/iasscral, p. 190, by a bridlepath, 2V2-3 hrs). 
— 12'/2 M. Villeret; 15 M. Coiirtclary - Cormoret ; 17 M. Cortebert; 19 M. 
Corgimont. 20 M. Sonceboz, and thence to (30 M.) Bienne, see p. 11. 

Beyond a tunnel, 3/4 M. long (3 min.), under Mont Sagne , and 
a .shorter one, we reach — - 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 13 



104 Route 58. LK LOCLE. 

I81/2M. LaChaux-de-Fonds(3255'; 25,569 inli.; *FleurdeLys, 
B. & A. 3, B. IV4 fr. ; *Lion d'Or~), an important watch-making 
town, lying in a remote Alpine valley, nearly as high as the top of 
Snowdon, with handsome streets and public buildings. If time per- 
mit, the traveller may visit the Church with its skilfully vaulted 
roof, and the College, containing the municipal picture-gallery (good 
pictures by Swiss masters), the library, etc. The town which for- 
merly suffered from scarcity of water, is now supplied with excellent 
water from the valley of the Reuse (near Champ du Moulin, p. 195), 
by means of an Aqueduct, 13 M. long, built in 1886-7 by W. Ritter 
and Hans Mathys. 

From Chaux-de-Fonds to the pictaresque 'Cotes du Doubs, a pleasant 
excursion. The road leads past the 'Restaurant Bel-Air to a Restaurant and 
Hotel , near the Combe de la Greffiire (view of the Doubs helow) , then 
descends through wood (short-cuts for walkers) towards the Doubs at 
(51/4 M.) the charmingly-situated Maison Monsieur, and skirts its bank 
past the "Pavilion des Sonneurs (Restaurant) to (2'/4 BI.) the prettily situated 
Bia/ufond. Then by boat to (V2 hr.) Le Refrain, and on foot through grand 
and wild scenery to the (2'/4 M.) picturesque Mouliti de la Alort (refreshm.). 
Opposite are the curious Eclielles de la Mort, used by the inhabitants. Here, 
and for several leagues farther N., the Doubs, whose lower course is 
also attractive, forms the boundary between France and Switzerland. 
Visitors may take a boat to (50min.) the Verri^res du Bief d'Etoz, then below 
the Fall of the Doubs continue either by boat or on foot along the French 
bank past (right) La Goule to (^4 hr.) Bief d''L't(>z. Thence we proceed on 
the Swiss bank to the (^4 hr.) mill of Theusseret , ascend to the right to 
Belfond, and again descend to (1 hr.) Ooumois ("Couronne, good trout), a 
village charmingly situated on both banks of the river. A picturesque 
road ascends hence to the E. in wide curves to (3 M.) SeigneUgier (Cheval 
Blanc), whence a diligence runs several times daily to Tavannes and Glo- 
velier (p. 10). 

A pleasant road leads to the W. of La Chaux-de-Fonds to (ii/4 hr.) Les 
Planchettes (Restaurant) and the (iV2 hr.) Saut du Doubs (p. 195). 

The railway bends suddenly to the S.W. — 21 M. Eplatures. 

231/2 M. Le Locle (3020'; 11,222 inh. ; *H6t. des Trois Roix; 
Hot. du Jura; Hot. National^ famed for its watches and jewellery. 
(Chronometers at Ulysse Nardin's.) In front of the Watchmakers' 
School a bronze statue was erected in 1888 to D.J. Kie/iard(d. 1741), 
founder of the watch-making industry in Le Locle and La Chaux- 
de-Fonds. The top of the Sommartel (4350'), 3 M. to the S., affords 
a wide view of a great part of the Jura. 

From Locle to Mokteau (Besancon), 8 M., railway in 35 minutes. 
This new line facilitates the excursion to the Saut du Doubs (p. 195), 
and the road from the Col des Roches to the river is also very interest- 
ing. — I'/i M. Col-des-Roches (Hotel Fe'd6ral), the station for Les Brenets 
(p. 195) To the right, the Col with its tunnel (see below); the line 
passes through another tunnel, then through a second, and descends into 
the valley of the Doubs, afl'ording picturesque views to the right. — 4 M. 
Villers-le-Lac, a French locality of 3053 inh., 1 M. to the S.E. of the Lac 
des Brenets. The line skirts the right bank of the Doubs, and then traverses 
the river. 8 M. Morleau, a little town of 2042 inh., pleasantly situated 
on the left bank (customhouse examination for travellers coming from 
Locle). Hence to Besangon 40 M. (see Baedeker^s Northern France). 

CoL DE3 Roches. Lac des Brenets. Saut du Doubs. From the 
station of Col-des-Roches a road leads to (2 M.) Les Brenets. It passes 
through the Col des Roches, a barrier of rocks which here closes the valley, 



AUVERNIEK. 50. Route. 195 

by means of a funnel begun in 1799, renewed and enlarged after a landslip 
in 1870, and then divides: to the left to Morteau , to the right to I-es 
Prenets. The latter branch leads through a rock-gallery, aft'ording a fine 
view of the upper valley of the Doubs. Lower down , the Bied issues 
from a tunnel, forming a waterfall. About l>/2 M. from the Col we reach 
a second gallery, beyond which we descend to the (V4 M.) large watch- 
making village of Les Brenett ('Couronne; 'Lion d'Or), and ('/4 JI.) the 
Pri du Lac, on the *Lac des Brenets, a lake 3 M. in length, which the 
Doubs forms above the waterfall. A boat (3 fr., there and back) or 
the small steamboat which plies on Sundays (for large parties also on 
week-days) now conveys us down the dark-green lake, gradually narrowing 
between precipitous wooded rocks, and presenting a series of very pictur- 
esque scenes. In 35 min. we reach the *Saut du Doubs (Hot. du Satit du 
Doubs, with garden, on the Swiss side; Hot. de la Chute, on the French 
side, both unpretending) , a picturesque waterfall 80' high , of which we 
obtain a line view from a point high above it (6 min. from the French 
inn). Thence to the foot of the fall, 5 min. more. The fall is hardly to 
be seen from the Swiss side, where the approach is dangerous. A new 
road through beautiful woods, affording cliarming glimpses of the basin 
of the Doubs, leads back to (3 M.) Les Brenets and (4'/2 M.) Le Lode. 

59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val 
de Travers. 

33 M. Railway in 13/4-23/4 brs.; fares 6 fr. 10, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 55 c. (From 
Pontarlier to Paris by Dijon, express in IOV2 hrs.; from Bern to Paris 
14V4 hrs.). This Jura Railway (comp. p. 193) also traverses a most pictur- 
esque country. The most striking points are between Neuchatel and Noi- 
raigue, between Boveresse and the last tunnel above St. Sulpice, and be- 
tween St. Pierre de la Cluse and Pontarlier. Finest views to the left. 

Neuchatel, see p. 191. The line, running parallel with that to 
Yverdon (p. 197) as far as Auvernier, crosses the Seyon. Beyond a 
fhort tunnel under the Val de Travers road we enjoy a beautiful 
*View of the lake and the Alps (comp. p. 193). The train skirts 
lofty vine-clad slopes, and crosses the Oorge of Serrieres by a bold 
viaduct. In the valley is Suchard's large chocolate factory , and 
above it rises the small chateau of Beauregard. 

4 M. Auvernier; the little town lies below, to the left (1480'; 
Hotel du Lac, moderate). The train diverges to the right from the 
Yverdon line (p. 197), and as it ascends we enjoy an admirable 
view of the lake and the Alps. On entering the rocky and wooded 
ravine of the Reuse or Areuse we observe the lofty viaduct of the 
Lausanne line (p. 197) far below us to the left. The last glimpse 
of the lake down this romantic valley is particularly picturesque. We 
soon enter a tunnel, high on the N. slope of the valley, almost under 
the station of Chambrelien (p. 193). Three more tunnels, before 
the second of which is the station of Champ du Moulin (2020' ; Hot. 
de la Truite, trout) in a picturesque situation (hence to the Gorges 
de la Reuse, see p. 197). Artificial conduits supply Neuchatel and 
Chaux-de-Fonds (p. 194) with spring water from this point; the 
engine-house (2067'), 1/4 hr. up the Reuse to the left, is interest- 
ing. A neighbouring house (now a cafe') was, according to the in- 
scription, once occupied for some time by J. J. Rousseau. 

13* 



19G Route 59. FLEURIER. 

12 M. Noiraigue (2360'; *Croix Blanche), at the N. base of the 
Creux du Van. The valley, called the Val de Travers from this 
point to St. Sulpice, suddenly changes its character here, and the 
Reuse now flows calmly through a grassy dale. 

From Noiraigue a steep path ascends the Creux du Van (4807') in 
2hrs., a better route than from Boudrtj (p. 197) or ,St. Aiibin fp. 197), as the 
striking view, extending from Pilatus to Mont Blanc, is suddenly revealed. 
At the top is a basin, 500' deep, sliaped like a horse-shoe, and nearly 3 M. 
in circumference. When the weather is about to change , this 'hollow of 
the wind' is filled with surging white vapour, which rises and falls like 
the steam in a boiling cauldron , but does not quit the basin. The phe- 
nomenon seldom lasts above an hour. A gun-shot produces a rattling echo, 
resembling a volley of musketry. Beautiful view of the Alps from Pilatus 
to Mont Blanc. Bare plants and minerals are found here. 

Beyond (I41/2 M.) Travers (2392'; Ours) are asphalt-mines on 
the opposite side of the valley with a tunnel. (From Travers a 
hranch line runs in the bottom of the valley via Couvet, Motiers, 
and Fleurier, to Buttes and St. Sulpice, see below.) — 17 M. Couvet 
(2418'; *Bellevue), a pretty town. Here, and at Motiers and Fleurier, 
excellent absinthe is manufactured. 

The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Opposite, far 
below, lies Motiers^-Travers ; 2415'; Maison de Ville) , where, by 
permission of the Prussian governor Lord Keith, Rousseau spent 
some time after his expulsion from Yverdon by the government of 
Bern, and wrote his 'Lettres ecrites de la Montague'. 

The *Ravine of the Raisse (affluent of the Reuse), with its picturesque 
rocks and waterfalls, deserves a visit. About '/z^I- from Motiers we pass 
a bridge and follow the brook to the right, ascending a pretty wooded gorge. 
In 1 hr. we reach a new path, leading to the top (35 min.). From this 
point, with the aid of a guide or a good map, we may ascend the 
Chasseron (p. 198). — Behind Motiers is the Grotte de Motiers, a limestone 
cavern, one arm of which is 3'/2 M. long. It may be safely explored for 
about '/jM. (rough walking; swarms of bats). At the entrance is a waterfall. 

19 M. Boveresse, above the village of the name. In the valley, far- 
ther on, is Fleurier (2455'; *Couronne; Post), with extensive watch 
factories. Hence to the top of the Chasseron in 2'/2 hrs., see p. 198. 
Beyond a long tunnel , we observe St. Sulpice (2557') below us, on 
the left. Scenery again very picturesque. Two bridges and two tun- 
nels. In the valley, IV2 M. to the W. of Fleurier, the Reuse, which 
probably flows under ground from the Lac des Tailleres , rises in 
the form of a considerable stream, soon capable of working a number 
of mills. Road and railway pass through the defile of La Chaine. 

The line attains its highest point, and then enters a monotonous 
green valley with beds of peat. At (25 M.) Les Verrieres Suisses 
(3060'; ^Balance), the last Swiss village, the French 'Army of the East' 
under Bourbaki crossed the frontier in Feb. 1871. The train enters 
France before reaching (26 M.) Les Verrieres de Joux, or Verrieres 
FranQaises (3015'). Near St. Pierre de La Cluse the scenery again 
becomes interesting. The defile of La Cluse, which railway and 
road both traverse, is fortified; on tlie left rises the ancient Fort 
de Joux, which was blown up with dynamite in 1877, overtopped 



BOUDRY. GO. Route. 197 

by a new fort on a bold rock to tlie right. Mirabeau was impris- 
oned here in 1775 at the instance of his father; and in 1803 Tous- 
saint Louverture , the negro chieftain of St. Domingo, died in the 
fort, where he had been confined by Napoleon. 

We cross the Doubs, which drains the Lac de St. Point, 3'/.2 M. 
to the S.W., and follow its left bank to Pontarlier. Pretty scenery. 

33 M. Pontarlier (2854'; 4675 inhab.; Hotel de la Poste, Grande 
Rue, R. '2 fr. ; Hot. de Paris; Hotel National; *Rail. Restaur., D. incl. 
wine 3-4 fr.), a small town on the Doubs. Luggage examined here. 
Opposite the station are the College and the Telegraph Office. To 
the right as the station is entered, is the large Hospital, with a turret. 

From Pontarlier to Cossonay and Vallorbe, see R. 63. 

60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne. 

46'/-.' H. Railway in 2-2V2 hrs.; fares 8fr., 5fr. 80, 4fr. 20c. (to Geneva 
in 2V4-5lirs.; fares 13 fr. 10, 9fr. 40, 6fr. 80c.). — Steamboat on the Lake 
of Neuchatel between Neuchatel and Moral (p. 204), and between Neuchatel 
and Estavayer only (twice daily in IV2 hr. , corresponding with the train 
to Freiburg, p. 201). 

Neuchatel, see p. 191. Route to (AM.) Auvernier, see p. 195. 
The Lausanne train , diverging from the Pontarlier line, quits the 
lake, to which it returns beyond Bevaix (see below). 5 M. Colombier 
(Maison de Ville), with an old chateau converted into a barrack, and 
beautiful avenues, yields excellent white wine. (On the lake, I'/o^I- 
to the E., is the Chanelaz Hydropathic, with pleasure-grounds and 
charming views; pens. 6-8 fr.) — 6 M. Boudry (1693'); the little 
town (1542'; Maison de Ville), the birthplace of Marat, lies below 
the line, on the right bank of the Reuse, 1 M. from the station. 

The 'Gorges de la Keuse are interesting. Leaving stat. Boudry, we cross 
the line (passing the viaduct on the left) and pass through the village of Trois- 
rods. Before the last house we turn to the left, between vyalls, and descend 
in 20 min. to the entrance to the ravine. A path, hewn in the rock at 
places, affords striking views of the narrow, wooded gorge, above which 
the rocks and trees frequently meet. In 5 min. we come to a path to the 
left, leading to the Chalet aux CUes (donation for the use of the path 
expected). In 20 min. more we observe the Grotte aux Fours, above us, 
on the right, with a large entrance (easily accessible). Farther on, the 
Pontarlier railway runs above the gorge, on the right, and still higher is 
the carriage-road. We next reach (55 min.; 1 hr. 40 min. from Boudry 
station) the Champ da Moulin, picturesquely situated (station for several 
trains, p. 195). — Perhaps a more convenient way of making this excursion 
is to take the train to Champ du Moulin and then to walk down through 
the Gorges to Boudry. Another path descends to the Gorges from Chambre- 
lien (p. 193). Noiraigue (p. 196) is 3 M. distant. 

From Boudry to the Creitx du Van (p. 196), 3 hrs. 

Beyond Boudry the train is carried by a great viaduct over the 
deep valley of the Reuse. The stream falls into the lake near Cor- 
taillod, where the best red wine in the canton is produced. 9 M. 
Bevaix (1568'). The line returns to the bank of the lake, which it 
follows to Yverdon. 11 M. Oorgier-St. Aubin; 14 M. Vaumarcus, 
with the fine well-preserved castle of that name. At (16 M.) Con- 
cise (1453'; Ecu de France^ many traces of ancient lake-villages 



198 Botiteeo. YVERDON. 

have been found. To the right, above, lies Corcelles, near which 
are three blocks of granite, 5' to 8' in height, placed in the form of 
a triangle, but not visible from the line. They are said to comme- 
morate the battle of Grandson, but are more probably of Celtic origin. 
18 M. Onnens-BonviUars. 

21 M. Grandson ('Lion d'Or; Croix Rouge; Hotel de la Gare), 
a picturesque little town (1709 inh.) probably of Roman origin, has 
a handsome old Chateau of Baron de Blonay , now restored. (*View 
from the terrace.) The old Church, Romanesque with a Gothic 
choir, which once belonged to a Benedictine abbey, contains columns 
with interesting capitals. 

The chateau of Grandson, originally the seat of a family of that name 
and said to have heen built about the year 1000, was taken by the Bern- 
ese in 1475, and in Feb. 1476 captured by Charles the Bold, Duke of 
Burgundy, who, contrary to the treaty, caused the Bernese garrison to be 
hanged or drowned. A few weeks later, on 3rd March , 1476, the Duke 
was surprised by the advancing Confederates near Grandson, and notwith- 
standing his numerical superiority (50,000 Burgundians, it is said, against 
20,000 Swiss) was utterly defeated. Part of the enormous booty captured 
on the occasion is still preserved in the Swiss arsenals. 

The train skirts the S.W. end of the lake, and crosses the Thiele 
or Toile near its influx into the lake. 

24 M. Yverdon (1433'; 6248 inh. ; *Hdt. de Londres, R. & A. 
21/2) D- 3 fr. ; Paon), the Roman Eburodunum, is a thriving little 
town on the Toile , with pleasant promenades and fine views. The 
Chdteau, erected by Duke Conrad of Zahringen in 1135, and the 
seat of Pestalozzi's famous school in 1805-25, is now occupied by 
the town-schools , a library , and a museum of Celtic, Roman , and 
other antiquities. Near the churchyard are some mural fragments 
of a Roman fort. To the S.E. (3/4 M.} are the Bains d'Yverdon, 
with a sulphur spring and a Kurhaus (pens. 7 fr.), halfway to 
which are the Pension La Prairie and the Pension Le Bosquet, both 
with gardens. 

The Chasseron (5285') , a height of the Jura, N.W. of Yverdon, com- 
mands a tine view. Diligence twice daily in 31/4 hrs. to Sle. Croix (3635'; 
Pens. Jacques; IV2-2 hrs. from the top), noted for its musical boxes. The 
descent may be made , if desired , by a good road to (I'/z br.) Fleurier 
(p. 196). — The Aiguille de Beaulmes (5128') and Monl Suchet (5236') are 
also fine points (3'/2-4 hrs.; comp. p. 204). 

From Yverdon to Pay erne and Freiburg, see p. 201. 

The train quits the lake, and enters the broad valley of the Toile, 
a stream formed by the confluence of the Orhe (p. 204) and the Ta- 
lent near stat. Ependes. To the W. rises the long chain of the Jura : 
the Aiguille de Beaulmes and Mont Suchet (see above) , between 
which in the distance are the Mont d'Or, the Dent de Vaulion 
(p. 205), and Mont Tendre. 30 M. Chavornay-Orbe (the small town 
of Orbe lies I1/2 M. to the N.W. ; omnibus at the station; p. 204). 
Two tunnels under the Mauremont. Then (331/2 M.) Eclepens 
(p. 204). The train enters the wooded valley of the Venoge, which 
is connected with the Toile by the Canal d' Entreroches , passes La 
Sarraz (p. 204), and stops at — 



FREIBURG. 01. Route. 199 

38 M. Peuthalaz-Cossonay (1850'; Hot. des Orands Moulins); 
the little town of Cossonay lies on a wooded hill to the right. — 
To Vallorbe and Pontarlier, see R. 63. 

Beyond (ASM.) Bussigny, to the S., appear the mountains of 
Savoy. 441/.2 M. Renens. 

46y2 M. Lausanne, see p. 220. 

61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey). 

61 M. Railway to Freiburg in 1-1 V4 hr. (3 fr. 75, 2fr. 70 c., 2 fr.); to 
Che.xbres in 3-31/2 hrs. (9fr. 70, 7 fr., 5fr. 20c.1; to Lausanne in 3i/4-4 hrs. 
(10 fr. 90, 7fr. 85, 5fr. 80c.)-, to Geneva in 5V2-6V2 hrs. (17 fr. 30, 12 fr. 35c., 
9fr.). — Travellers to Vevey had better alight at Che.xbres (comp. p. 202). 

We choose seats on the left, bearing in mind, however, that the train, 
after leaving the Bern station, reverses its direction and runs towards the W. 

Bern, see p. 133. To the left we obtain a glimpse of the Bernese 
Alps, and the mountains of the Simme and Sarine valleys, among 
which the serrated Brenleire (7743') and Folierant (7690') are con- 
spicuous ; more to the right is the Moleson ; to the left, in front of 
the high Alps, is the pyramidal Niesen. This view is soon hidden 
by wood. 3 M. Bilmplitz; 6 M. Thorishaus, The train descends and 
crosses the Sense , the boundary between the cantons of Bern and 
Freiburg. 9 M. Flamatt. 

To the W. (572 M.; diligence daily in 1 hr., via Netienegg) lies Laupen 
(Bar), a small town with an ancient chateau, at the confluence of the Sense 
and the Sarine , famed in the annals of Switzerland for a victory gained 
in 1339 by the Bernese under Rudolph von EHaeh (p. 135) over the army of 
Freiburg and the allied nobility of the Uechtland, Aargau, Savoy, and Bur- 
gundy. The anniversary is kept every five years. The battlefield on the 
Bramberg , '/2 M. to the N. of the road to Neuenegg, is marked by a 
monument, erected in 1829. 

Beyond the next tunnel we enter the green valley of the 
Taferna-Bach. 12y.2 M. Schmitten; 16 M. Diidingen (Fr. Gwm), 
where we cross a viaduct, 100' high. Beyond BalUswyl, which lies 
to the left, the train crosses the profound gorge of the <Saane or 
Sarine by means of the huge iron Viaduc de Granfey, 250' in height, 
and nearly 1/4 M. long. 

20 M. Freiburg. — *Grand-Hot. de Fribourg etZaehringen, well- 
situated near the station, R., L., & A. from S'/z, lunch 3-4, D. 5 fr. — Rail. 
Restaurant, with a few rooms. 

Freiburg (2100'; pop. 12,158), Fr. Fribourg, the capital of 
Canton Freiburg, the ancient Uechtland, founded in li78 by 
Berthold IV. of Zahringen, stands like Bern on a rooky height nearly 
surrounded by the Sarine (Saane). Most of the inhabitants speak 
French. The town lies on the boundary between the two tongues, 
and German is still spoken in the lower quarters. 

As the picturesque situation of the town and its bridges is not seen from 
the railway-station, the following walk of 11/2 hr. is recommended. From 
the station past the little Protestant church and through the town to the 
Hotel de Ville and the church of St. Nicholas; then, to the left, cross the 
Great Suspension Bridge (p. QOO), and ascend the road to the right to the Pont 
de Ootteron; cross this, and follow a road leading to the hamlet of Boiir- 
guiUon. After G min. we take a short-cut to the right, regain the road, and 



200 Route Gl. FREIBURG. From Bern 

descend to the riglit, through tlie old Porie de Bourguillon, to the pictur- 
eaquely situated Loretio Chapel (fine view of the town). Near a small 
chapel, farther on, we obtain to the left a view of the valley of the Sarine, 
which has been converted into a reservoir to supply the town. A path 
with steps descends from this point to the lower town, turning to the 
left at the fountain and passing the church of SI. John (founded by the 
knights of Malta), beyond which we cross the Sarine by a stone bridge 
(Pont St. Jean), and either ascend by the steps to the Hotel de Ville, or 
follow the road to the left leading to the station. 

The Gothic *Church or St. Nicholas, founded in 1283, and 
renovated in the 15th cent., has been recently restored. The hand- 
some tower, 280' high, erected in 1470-92, has a portal adorned 
with curious reliefs. 

The "Organ, one of the finest in Europe, with 67 stops and 7800 
pipes, some of them 32' in length, was built by Al. Mooser (d. 1839), 
whose bust has been placed under the instrument to the right. Perform- 
ances in summer at 1.30 and (except Sat. and the eves of festivals) 8 p.m. 
daily. If fewer than 20 persons assemble, there is no performance unless 
the sum paid for the tickets is made up to 20.fr. — The late-Gothic carved 
Stalls deserve notice. The second chapel on the S. side contains a pleas- 
ing modern picture by Deschwanden, St. Anne and St. Mary. The choir 
has three modern stained-glass windows (St. Nicholas and other saints). 
A tablet on the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the memory of 
Canisius (d. 1597), a famous Jesuit, who is buried in St. Michael's Church 
(see below). 

The Hotel db Ville, near the church of St. Nicholas, occupies 
the site of the palace of the dukes of Zahringen. The octagonal 
clock-tower dates from 1611. In front of it stands a venerable lime- 
tree, 14' in circumference, supported by stone pillars. 

According to tradition, this tree was originally a twig, borne by a 
young native of Freiburg when he arrived in the town, breathless and 
exhausted from loss of blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory 
of Morat (1476). 'Victory' was the only word he could utter, and having 
thus fulfilled his mission, he expired. 

In the vicinity is a bronze Statue of Father Greyoire Oirard 
(d. 1850). 

Near the Morat Gate is the old Jesuits' College of St. Michael, 
with a church, founded by Father Canisius, but now managed by 
secular clergy. Opposite it, to the left, is a plain, barrack-like 
Boys' School, founded by the Jesuits, in 1827. — The Lycee, next 
the College, contains the valuable Cantonal Museum, 

Two rooms on the ground-floor contain the 'Marcello Museum, be- 
queathed to the town by the sculptress Duchess Adela Colonna (d. 1879), 
a native of Freiburg , who assumed the name of Marcello : Busts and 
statues ('Pythia) by Marcello; pictures by her, and by Velasquez, Regnault, 
Hebert, Delacroix, Fortuny, Courbet, etc. ; tapestry, furniture, etc. ; also 
the Canionnl Picture Gallery of ancient and modern works. — On the 
first floor (live rooms) is a valuable collection of antiquities from lake- 
dwellings, Roman and Swiss relics, ethnographical objects, weapons and 
armour, coins, etc. — The second floor (two rooms) contains zoological 
and physical, the third floor mineralogical and botanical collections. 

The great *Suspension Bridge, or Grand Pont Suspendu, con- 
structed by Chaley in 1834, is 270 yds. long, and 168' above the 
Sarine. It is supported by six wire-ropes, 410 yds. in length, which 
form a single inverted arch, the extremities being secured by 128 an- 



to Lausanne. ROMONT. 01. Route. 201 

chors attached to blocks of stone far below the surface of the earth. 
On the side next the town the chains pass through the walls of 
several liouses. — A little farther up is the Pont de Gotteron (260 
yds. long, 245' high), a similar bridge, constructed in 1840 over the 
Vallee de Ootteron, a deep ravine descending to the Sarine. On 
the right side the chains of this bridge are secured in the sandstone 
rock itself. 

Feom Freiburg to Yverdon, 31 '/2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (4 fr. 5 c. 
or 3 fr.). Near (S'/a M.) Selfavx is a huge embankment, forming an aque- 
duct for the Sornaz , 150 yds. in length. Stat. Grollet/ , Lichelles, Coussei, 
Corcelles, and (14V2 M.) Pai/enie(^p. 203j, the junction of the 'Ligne de Broye'. 
We cross the Broye and the Olane. 16'/2 M. Cugy ; 20 M. Estavayer Ci/ir/wo« 
de Ville; Cer/), a considerable little town, with the picturesque chateau 
of Chilnaux, on the Lake of Neuchatel. (Steamer twice daily by Cor- 
taillod and Avvernier to Neuchatel, p. 191.) — 237-2 M. Cheyres ; 26 M. 
Yvona7id, on a tongue of land projecting far into the lake, at the mouth 
of the Mentue, where Roman relics have been found. 31V2 M. i'verdon 
(p. 198). 

To the S.E. of Freiburg (15 M.; road by Rechthalden and Plaffeyen ; dil- 
igence in summer daily in 4 hrs.), in the valley of the Sense, is the Schwarze 
See (Lac JVoir, 3365'), amidst lofty mountains, and well stocked with flsh. 
On its bank lies the ' Schwarzsee-Bad, or Bains Dombie (R. 1-3, board 
4-6 fr. per day), with sulphur-springs. The Kaisereggschloss (7183'), to the 
S.E. (3 hrs., with guide) , commands the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. — • 
From the Schwarze See over the Col de Chisalettes to (10'/2 M.) Char- 
mey, see p. 187 ; over the Gantrist Pass to Thun, p. 187. 

Ascent of the "Berra (Birrenberg, 5655'), 4V2-5 hrs. from Freiburg, in- 
teresting. Road by Marly, a village prettily situated on the Girine (Aer- 
gerenhach), to f6 BI.) Le Mouret; thence a bridle-path up the Kiisenberg to 
the (21/-2 hrs.) top. Extensive view of the Jura, the lakes of Neuchatel, 
Jlorat, and Bienne, and the Alps. Descent to Valsainte (p. 187) 3/4 hr., to 
the Schwarze See I1/2 hr. 

As the train proceeds we enjoy a view of the Simmenthal and 
Freiburg Mts. to the left, the Moleson being conspicuous. The Glane, 
with its perpendicular banks, and a handsome bridge of four arches 
which carries the road across it, are also seen to the left. 24 M. 
Matran; 251/0 M. Rose; 27 M. Neyruz; 28V2 M. Cottens ; 30 M. 
Chenens. Near (33 M.) Villaz-St. Pierre the train enters the valley 
of the Glane ; on the left are the fertile slopes of the Oibloux (3947'). 
Near Romont, to the left, is the nunnery of La Fille Dieu. 

36 M. Romont (2325'; pop. 1871; *Cer/'; Couroime; *Croix 
Blanche), a little town on the Glane, with ancient walls and watch- 
towers, is picturesquely situated on a hill. The Castle on the S. 
side, founded by the Burgundian kings in the 10th cent., is now 
occupied by the local authorities. The old Gothic Church contains 
choir-stalls with grotesque carving. At the S. end of the hill rises 
a massive round tower ; the adjoining grounds afford a pleasing view. 

From Romont to Bulle (p. 235) 12 31., branch-line in 50 min. Stations 
Vuisternens, Sales, Vaulruz (p. 236). 

391/2 M. Siviriez. A tunnel pierces the watershed between the 
Glane and the Broye. 42 M. Vauderens. To the right lies the 
valley of the Broye, with the Payerne railway (p. 202) and the town 
of Rue (p. 202). At (46 M.) Oron-le-Chatel (2378') we pass through 



202 Route 61. CHEXRRES. 

a cutting in the castle-liill to the station on the S. side; Oro7i-la- 
Ville lies below, to the right (sec below). The train now descends 
and crosses the Mionna% and the Broye. 48 M. Stat. Palezieux (see 
below). We again ascend slightly, traversing a smiling and partially 
wooded tract, to (53'/2M.)r/iCx6res, the station forVevey (see below). 

The 'Signal de Chexbres (1920' ; *IIdt. du Signal, with garden), 10 min. 
from the station, affurds a superb view. At our feet lies the greater part 
of the Lake of Geneva; to the left Vevey ; above it, from left to right, are 
the saddle of the Col de Jaman, the tooth-like Bent de Jaman, the broad 
back of the Kochers de Naye, and the Tour d'Ai and Tour de Morges-, 
farther back, the Grand-Moeveran and the Dent de Mercies. In the centre 
of the background is the pyramid of Mont Catogne; on its left rises the 
snowy cone of Mont Velan ; to the right the Savoy Mts., with the Dent 
d'Oche. — Travellers bound for Vevey may descend direct from the Signal 
to the village of Chexbres. 

From Chexbres to Vevet, 4 M. The diligence, corresponding with 
every train, descends to Vevey in 45 min. (passengers may alight at the 
station); ascent from Vevey to Chexbres I'/z hr., leaving Vevey about 2 hrs. 
before the train is due at Chexbres. The road leads through (t M ) the 
large village of Chexbres (1903'; "Lion d'Or), with its old castle (whence 
Ti path descends direct to Rivaz-St. Saplioriii, a station on the W. Railway, 
p. 22S), and then descends, in view of the beautiful lake and the Savoy 
Mts., to the Lausanne and Vevey road and (3 M.) Veve>i (p. 222). 

Beyond the next tunnel (506 yds.) a **Vie-w' of singular beauty, 
embracing the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the surround- 
ing mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of Vevey, 
which is not itself visible, are the Pleiades, the Dent de Jaman, 
the valley of the Rhone, and the Savoy Mts. ; in the foreground lie 
numerous villages amidst vineyards. Beyond a tunnel (through 
which the setting sun shines in summer) and stat. Grandvaux 
(Cully) we observe the villages of Lutry, PuUy , and Ouchy on the 
lake, and Lausanne on the hill above them. Beyond another tunnel 
and a viaduct we reach ( TiS'/o M.) La Conversion (iMtry), and cross 
the valley of the Paud'eze (p. 121) by a viaduct of nine arches. After 
another short tunnel our train reaches the Lausanne and Vevey line. 

61 M. Lausanne, see p. 220. 



62. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss. 

63 M. Raii-wav in A'/zhrs. ; fares 8 fr. 10, 5 fr. 90 c. (no 1st class). 
To Palezieux (13 M.), see above. We follow the pleasant val- 
ley of the Broi/e. 15 M. Palezieuz-halte (village and ruined castle 
on the right) ; IT'/jM. CftatifZens (I/2M. to the N.E. is Oron-la- 
Ville, see above); 10 M. Ecuh lens -Rue. The little town of Eue 
(2323'; Maison de Ville; Fleur de Lis) lies on a hill to the right, 
commanded by an old chateau. 23 M. Bressonaz. 

241/2 M. Moudon (1690'; pop. 2685; Hot. du Pont; Couronne; 
Hot. de Ville), with the chateaux of Carouge and Rochefort , an old 
town, the Roman Minodunum , and long the capital of the Pays de 
Vaud. Handsome Gothic church. — Farther on we cross the Broye 
twice. 271/2 M. Lucens , with a picturesque old chateau ; 30 M. 



AVENCHES. (Sf?. Route. 203 

Henniez^ to the left of which are the old chateau aiul church of Sur- 
pierre, on a lofty crag; 32 M. Oranges-Marnand. 

37 M. Payerne, Ger. Peterlingen (1480'; pop. 3631; *Ours; 
Croix Blanche), an old town, the Roman Paternincum (?) , was 
early in the middle ages a frequent residence of the kings of Bur- 
gundy. In the 10th cent. Bertha, wife of Rudolph II., erected a 
church and Benedictine abhey here, the former now a granary, 
the latter a school. Her bones, with those of her husband and her 
son Conrad, were discovered in 1817 below a tower of the old 
church, and were buried in the Parish Church, where the queen's 
saddle with a hole for her distaff is shown. To this day the ex- 
pression, 'Ce n'est plus le temps ou Berthe fllait', is a regretful 
allusion to the 'good old times'. 

From Payerne to Freiburg and Yi'erdon, see p. 201. 

The valley of the Broye becomes broad and marshy. SS'/o M. 
Corcelles; -iO'/o M. Dompierre ; 42M. Domdidier. 

431/2 M. Avenches (1519'; pop. 1850; *Couronne; Hotel de 
Ville^, now a small town , was the ancient capital of the Ilelvetii, 
the Rom. Aventicum. Distinct remains of an Amphitheatre and other 
buildings, and of the old town -walls, testify to its former pro- 
sperity. The medicBval Castle, at the entrance to the town, occupies 
the site of the Roman capitol. To the N.W. rises a solitary Corin- 
thian column 39' high, the remnant of a temple of Apollo, now 
called Le Cigognier, from the stork's nest which has occupied it for 
centuries. The Museum (custodian lives near the church; small 
fee) contains mosaics, inscriptions, and other relics recently found 
here; in its garden is the above-mentioned amphitheatre. 

In his Childe Harold (iii. 65) Lord Byron alludes to the 'Cigognier': — 
' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears 
A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days.' 

For centuries a tradition was current that the tombstone of a daughter 
of Julius Alpinus had been discovered at Avenches, the supposed inscription 
on which Lord Byron describes as a most affecting composition (Ch. Har. 
iii., 66, 67); but both monument and inscription are said to have been 
invented by a certain Paulus Guilelmus, who lived in the 16th cent. 

At (4572 M.) Faoug (Soleil ; Hot. Wicky) we approach the Lake 
of Morat (1428'), the Roman Lacus Aventicensis and the Vecht- 
See of the middle ages (comp. p. 199), 51/2 M. long. It is separated 
from the Lake of Neuchatel by the narrow Afon< Vully towards the N. 
and the Charmontel to the S., but connected with it by the Broye. 

471/2 M. Morat, Ger. Murten (1522'; pop. 2333; Couronne or 
Post; Croix; Lion; Pens. Kauer , on the lake, moderate; Rail. 
Restaur.') , an ancient little town with well preserved gates and 
walls, lies on the lake named after it. Its narrow arcaded streets 
are overshadowed by an old Castle, which in 1476, with a garrison 
of 1500 Bernese under Adrian v. Bubenberg, resisted the artillery of 
Charles the Bold for ten days before the battle of Morat. The School 
contains a collection of Burgundlan weapons. Lake Baths next the 
Pension Kauer, at the S. end of the town. 



204 Route (13. ORBE. 

About I'/o M. to the S. of Morat, near the lake, rises a marble OheVsk, 
erected in 18'J2 in memory of the Battle of Morat, which was fought on 
22nd June, 1476. This was the bloodiest of those three disastrous contests 
(Grandson, Morat, and Nancy), in which the puissant Duke of Burgundy 
successively lost his treasure , his courage, and his life ('Gut, Muth , und 
Blut'). The Burgundians lost 15,000 men and all their military stores. 

The Steamboat from Morat to Neuciiatf.l (twice daily in 2V-.> hrs.) 
crosses the lake to Motier and Praz, at the E. base nf the vine-clad Moiit 
Vully (2267') ; at Sugiez it passes under a wooden bridge and enters the 
Broye. To the W. stretches the Jura, from the Weissenstein to the Chas- 
seron. Near La Sauge we enter the Lake of Neuclidlel (p. 190), steering 
first S.W. to Ciidrefin, and afterwards N.W. to St. Blaise and Neuchdlel 
(see p. 190). — Diligence from Morat to NeucMtel 3 times daily in 2-2'/i 
hrs., via Anet, Ger. Ins; to Freiburg twice daily in 2'/4 hrs. 

Near (SQi/o M.) Galmitz, Fr. Charmey, we leave the lake. To 
the left is the Grosse Moos, an extensive marshy tract, partly re- 
claimed of late. 521/2 M. Kerzers, Fr. Chietres (*Fei\s. Mosching, 
4-4'/2 fr.); 641/2 M. Frdschels, Fr. Frasse; 57 M. Kallnach. 

591/2 M. Aarberg (1470'; pop. 1228; Krone), an old town on 
an island in the Aare. Adjoining the church is the old castle of the 
counts of Aarberg, who sold their dominions to Bern in 1351. 

Diligence to Bern daily in 3 hrs. via Frienisberg , once a Cistercian 
monastery, now a deaf-and-dumb asylum, Maikirch, and Orlschwaben. 

Lastly, we cross the Aare to f 63 M.) Lyss , on the Bienne-Bern 
line (p. 11). 

63. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier. 

45 M. Railway in 21/2-3 hrs. (8 fr. 20, 5 fr. 85, 4 fr. 20 c). Express from 
Lausanne to Paris by this route (327 M.) in 11 hrs. (64 fr., 47 fr. 80 c., 35 fr.). 

To (9 M.) Cossonay, see p. 199. The train at first runs parallel 
with the Yverdon line, diverges to the left at ViUars-Lussery, and 
leads by Eclepens to (15 M.) La Sarraz (1647'; Maison de Ville'), a 
small town with an old chateau. Two short tunnels. Near Orny 
we cross the Nozon. 

18 m. Arnex-Orbe{i79i''); 3/4 M. to the N. lies the picturesque 
old town of Orbe (1460'; 1925 inh. ; Deux Poissons ; Ecu de France), 
on the Orbe, which is crossed here by two bridges. Early in the 
middle ages Orbe was the capital of Little Burgundy, to which period 
belong the two towers of tlie chateau (view from the terrace). — 
Post-omnibus to stat. Chavornay (ip . 198) seven times daily ini/2hr. 

The line then leads in long windings, by Bofflens, to (22 M.) 
Croy-Romainmotier, V/o M. from Romainniotier (2295'; 370 inh. ; 
Maison de Ville), a very ancient place, with the dilapidated church 
of an abbey which was fotinded in 753 and suppressed in 1536. 

From Romainmotier to Le Pont (9 M.). The road leads by (A'/'i M.) 
VatiUoii (3067'), from which the Dent de Vavlion (p. 205) is ascended 
without difficulty in l'/^ hour. Guide advisable, especially for the descent 
to Le Pont (p. 205), 1 hr. 

The train skirts wooded hills ; on the right lies ""he deep valley 
of the Orhe, and high on its left bank are the villages of LigneroUes, 
whence Mont Suchet (5235') i.s easily ascended in 272 li'^., and 
BaUaiyues (""Hot. -Pens, la Sassiniere), now visited as a summer 














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VALLORBE. 63. lioute. 205 

resort (Engl. Church service). ^Near Vallorbe we cross the Orbe 
above the influx of the Jougnenaz. 

297.2 M. Vallorbe (_2520'; 2124 inh. ; *H6tel de Geneve, at the 
station ; Maison de Ville, Croix Blanche, both moderate), a watch- 
making and iron-working place, at the base of the Mont d'Or (4818'), 
mostly burned down in 1883. To the S.W., Y2M., is the so-called 
Source of the Orbe (2570') , which emerges from the rock in con- 
siderable Yolume. 

To the Lac de Jocx and Dent de Vaulion, an interesting excursion. 
Travellers bound for the Lake of Geneva may then proceed next day by 
Le Brassus and the Col de Marchairuz to Rolle (see below and p. 219). — 
The Railway from Vallokbe to Le Pont, 6'-.'M., in 40 niin., crosses the 
Orbe by an imposing viaduct, gradually ascends to the tunnel (500 yds. 
long) through the Mont dfOrzeires (3395'), and then descends along the 
Lac Brenet (see below) to Le Pont. To the right, before the tunnel, is 
the Source of the Orbe (see above). 

6V2 M. Le Pont ( Tniite), a hamlet at the N. end of the Lac de Joux (3310'; 
5 31. long, 11/4 M. broad), which is separated from the little Lac Bvenet by 
an embankment with a bridge. On the If. side of the Lac Brenet are a 
number of apertures (enfonnvirs) in the rocks, serving to drain the lake, 
the waters of which, after a subterranean course of 3 51., give birth to 
the Orbe (see above), 750' lower. 

Le Pont lies on the S. slope of the *Dent de Vaulion (4?80'), the W. 
side of which presents a barren and rugged precipice , 1600' high , while 
the E. side is a gentle, grassy slope. The top is reached in 1^/4 hr. 
from Le Pout , or in I1/2 hr. from Vaulion (see above ■■, guide desirable). 
View of the Lac de Joux, the Lac des Rousses, the Noirmont, and the 
Dole; to the S.E. part of the Lake of Geneva, and beyond it Mont 
Blanc and the Alps of the Valais ; lastly the Bernese Oberland. 

On the E. bank of the Lac de Joux, 1 M. S. of Le Pont, lies UAbbaye 
(Inn), with the church of an ancient Premonstratensian monastery. Ascent 
of the -Mont Tendre (5512'), 2 hrs., interesting. At the S. end of the lake, 
6V2 M. from Le Pont (by boat in 1V2-2 hrs., with one rower 3-4 fr.), lies 
the hamlet of Le Sen tier ; and on the Orbe, 2 M. higher up, is the village 
of Le Brassus (3412'; B61. de la Lande; II6t. de France; diligence to Le 
Pont twice daily in 2 hrs., via Le Lieu; one-horse carr. 10 fr.), with iron 
works. Thence over the Col de Marchairuz to (I6V2 M.) Rolle, see p. 219. 

The train follows the pretty, wooded valley of the Jougnenaz to 
(341/2 M.) Jougne (Lion d'Or), with the French douane. Beyond a 
tunnel we pass Les Hopitaux Neufs and Les Hopitaux Vieux. 42 M. 
Frambourg. Near the Fort de Joux , before the defile of La C'luse 
(p. 196), we join the Neuchatel line. 

45 M. Pontarlier, sec p. 197. 

64. Geneva and Environs. 

Arrival. Station of the Chemin de Fer de la Sulsse Occidentale 
(PI. D, 2) on the right bank, at the upper end of the Rue du Montblanc. Om- 
nibus from the station to all the hotels (and from the hotels to the station) 
30 c. ; each box 15 c. — Station of Geneva and Eaux Vives (for Anne- 
masse, Annecy, Bouveret, Bellegarde), on the Route de Bonneville (PI. F, 8; 
tramway to the Place du Jlolurd and the Western Station). — Steamboat 
Piers on the S. (left) bank by the Jardin Anglais, and on the K. (right) 
bank by the Quai du Montblanc, opposite the Brunswick Monument (for 
the express boats only). 

Hotels. On the Right Bank, with view of the lake and the Alps: *Hot. 
DES Bekgues (Pl. a; D, 4), Quai des Bergues; 'Hot. de Russie (PI. b; D, 4) 



20G Route 64. GENEVA. Hotels. 

and ''Grand Hot. ue la Paix (PI. c; U, 4), on tile Qual du Montblanc; 
'Hot. Beau-Rivaue (Pl.d; E, 4) and 'Hot. d'Angleterre (PI. e; E, 4), on 
the (2"ai desPaquis; beyond these, on the Quai du Leman, 'Grand Hot. 
National (PI. f . ; F, 2), a large house, finely situated. — On the Left Bank: 
*H6t. MtTROPOLE (PI. !^ ; I>, 5), by the Jardin Anglais; *H6t. de l'Bcu 
(PI. h; C, 4); both with view of the lake. All these hotels are of the 
first class, with corresponding charges: R., L., & A. from 4-5, B. I'/z, D. 
5 fr. — 'Hot. de la Poste (PI. i; B, 4), frequented by German commercial 
travellers, R., L., & A. from 2'/2i i>- incl. wine 3 and 4 fr.; 'Hot. do Lac 
(PI. k; D, 5), R., L., & A. 3, D. 3 fr. ; 'Hot. de Parls (PI. 1; D, 5), with 
view of the lake, R. & A. 272-3 fr. ; 'Hot. Victoria (PI. m ; E, 6j, Rue Pierre- 
Fatio; 'Hotel du Mont Blanc, Balance (PI. n; C, 4), and (Jrand Aigle 
(PI. o; f), 5), in the Rue du Rhone. — On the right bank: Hot. Suisse 
(PI. p; D, 3), R., L., & A. 31/2, !>• 31/2 fr.; Hot. de GenSve (PI. q; D, 3), 
R., L., & A. 3, D. 3V2 f r. ; both in the Rue du Montblanc; Hot. Richemont, 
(PI. r;E, 4), Place des Alpes, similar charges; Hot.-Pens. des Arts, Hot. 
DE LA Gare (PI. t; D, 2), and Hot. de la Monnaie, all near the station. 

Pensions, very numerous owing to the great influx of strangers: 
120 to 3(X) fr. per month. Bovet (2CK) fr.). Rue General Dufonr ; Vautier 
(G fr. per day), Quai Pierre-Fatio 12; Fischer, Quai des Eaux-Vives 3 
(6 fr. per day; lake-baths near it); i/nie. S. Bovet, Quai des Eaux-Vives 2 
(for ladies, 150-170 fr.); Mme. Fleischmann , Rue de la Plaine 5 (5-6 fr.); 
Faure-Malthey (Maison des Trois Rots), Place Bel-Air 2 (ofr. per day, 125 fr. 
per month); Labarthe , near the university; Fromont et Jackson, Rue du 
Montblanc and Rue Pradier 1; Hiller, Rue du Rhone 53; Morliardt, Boul. 
de Plainpalais 20; Pens, du Rhone, Boul. de Plainpalais 26; Mme. Richardet 
(6 fr. per day), Rue du Montblanc 8; Vve. Picard (180 fr.), Place de la 
Metropole 2; Mme. A. Revercho7i , Place des Alpes and Rue Levrier 13; 
Bersot, Place de la Synagogue 2 ; Durand, Chemin Dancet 3 ; Maret, Petit- 
Florissant 12 ; 'list.- Pens. Beau-Sijour, in Champel-sur-Arve (p. 213), also 
for a single day: ~ Hot.-Pens. de la Roseraie, same place; Hot.-Pens. Bellevue, 
Rue de Lyon 29, with garden, 5-7 fr. — For students chiefly: Berard (85- 
100 fr.) , Rue du Rhone 29. 

Caifes. Kiosque des Bastions, on the Promenade des Bastions (p. 211), 
with music almost every afternoon and evening; Ch/(? du Nord, de la 
Couronne, and de Qen'eve, all on the Grand Quai ; du Theatre, in the Theatre ; 
du Musie; Lyrique; in the Jardin Anglais; du Jardin des Alpes, etc. — 
Beer at the cafds. Also ScholVs, Rue du Rhone 92 ; Landolt, Rue du Rhone 
and Rue du Conseil General ; Brasserie de VOpira, near the theatre ; Brass, 
de Rive ; Brass, de VEsph-ance, Route de Carouge 42 ; Brass. St. Jean (fine 
view); Grande Brasserie de Munich, Boulevard James Fazy 3, opposite the 
Promenade St. Jean; Bonivard, Rue des Alpes 6; Brass, de la Place des 
Alpes, in the German style; Brass. Bernoise, Rue du Montblanc 11. Geneva 
beer at the breweries outside the gates: Treiber, Route de Chene, with a 
pleasant shady terrace. — Kestaurants. Left Bank: Ca/e du Nord, dear; 
Cafe du Lac, Rue du Rhone 78; Villard, Rue du Rhone 51; also at the 
hotels. The tables d'hote at the hotels are on the whole better and less 
expensive than dinners a la carte at the restaurants. 

Baths. Bains de la Poste, Place de la Poste, well fitted up, hot, cold, 
shower, and vapour baths ; Bains des Alpes, Rue Levrier 5; Bains de Chante- 
poulet. Rue de Chantepoulet, etc. — Lake Baths. Swimming and other baths 
by the Quai des Kaux-Vives (left bank); also by the pier on the opposite 
bank (PI. F, 4) ; both open for ladies 8-10 o'clock. — "Baths in the Rhone 
above the Pont de la Machine (PI. C, 4), well fitted up; swimming-bath 
30, plunge-bath 60, with towels 80-90 c. — Baths in the Arve, very 
cold (in summer only about 50°), Chemin des Bains de TArve, 20, ^4 ^• 
from the Place Neuve ; also at Champel-sur-Arve (p. 213). 

Post and Telegraph Offices (with Poste Restante), Place de la Poste 
(PI. B, 4). Branch Offices at the railway-station, at Rue du Rhone 55, near 
the Palais de Justice and Route de Carouge 13. 

Tramway from the station by the Pont du Montblanc, Place du Molard, 
Place Neuve, Rond Point de Plainpalais to Carouge (p. 215), and from the 
tation by the Place du Molard, and Cours de Rive to the Oeneva and Eaux- 



Physicians. GENEVA. 04. Route. 207 

Vivet JSlation (p. 205) and to Chene (p. 263) and Annemasse (p. 253). Single 
trip 10 c; Carouge to Chene 40 c. — Steam Tramway to Veirier (p. 215), 
Chene (p. 253) and Annemasse (p. 253). 

Cabs. Drive in the town, 1-2 pers. 1 fr., 3-4 pers. i'/i fr., to Eaux- 
Vives and Plainpalais 2 fr. ; box 50 c. ; for one hour within the octroi- 
limits, 1-4 pers. 21/2 fr., every additional V4 hr. 60 c. ; to Varembe 
(Ariana) 2'/2, to Petit Saeonnex 3, Chambesy, Cologny, Grand-Saconnex 4, 
Vesenaz, Bellevue 5, Fernex. Genthod 6, Mornex 12, Monnetier 15 fr. — 
VoiTDRiEKs : Kolliker, Aux Paquis ; Regard, on the Terrassiere ; Chatelel 
Freres, Rue des Paquis 35. One-horse carr. about 15, two-horse 30 fr. per 
day, fees included. 

Boats (GO c. - 1 fr. 20 c. per hr. ; boatman 1 tr. 20 c. per hr.), near the 
Jardin Anglais , the Quai du Montblanc , and the two piers (Jeties). The 
English Vano(j>' are steadier than the '■voiliers'' or sailing-boats. The smaller 
boats used within the harbour are called '■nacelles.'' Rowers are prohibited 
from approaching the Pont des Bergues on account of the dangerous rapids. 

Shops. The most attractive are those on the Grand-Quai, the Rue du 
Rhone, the Rue de la Corraterie (left bank) , the Quai des Bergues, and 
the Rue du Montblanc (right bank). Geneva is noted for its watches and 
jewellery. Among the watch-makers of repute may be mentioned Vacheron 
<t Co., Rue Tour de Tile 3; Golay, Leresche it Fils, Quai des Bergues 31 ; Pi- 
guet & Bachmann, Ekegrin, Patek <t Co., all on the Grand-Quai; LecouUve, 
Rue Bonivard 8; BadoUetd- Co., near the post-office; H. Capt, and Kossel- 
Bautte, Rue du Rhone; Dufour & Co., Place du Molard 11. — Engraver, 
M. L. Bovy, chiefly for medals. Rue Chantepoulet. — Musical boxes : F. 
Conchon, Place des Alpes 9 & Rue des Paquis 2; G. Baker-Troll d: Co., 
Rue Bonivard 6. 

Booksellers. Oeorg, Corraterie 10; Burkhardt, Molard 2. 

Theatre (p. 212). Performances daily in winter (adm. I'/z-o fr. ; seats 
secured in advance, or 'en location", at higher charges). — Kursaal on the 
Quai des Paquis (PI. E, 3); concert every evening at 8 p.m., adm. 1-3 fr. 

Organ Concert in the Cathedral (p. 210) on Mon., Wed., and Sat., at 
7. 30 p. m. ; tickets (Ifr.) obtainable from the concierge and at the hotels. 

— Concerts in the Baiiment Electoral (p. 213) every Sunday afternoon in 
winter; also fortnightly in the Theatre (see above). 

Exhibition of Art, belonging to the Soci^ti des Amis des Beaux-Arts, 
in the Athenee (p. 211), open daily 10-6, Sun. 11-4; adm. 1 fr. — Ex- 
position Municipale das Beaux-Arts in Aug. and Sept. annually, in the 
Batiment Electoral (p. 213). — Panorama (PI. B, 4), Boulevard de Plain- 
palais, open daily (1 fr.). — Public Lectures (Cours publics et gratuits) in 
the University Hall, in winter daily at 8 p.m. 

Physicians. Dr. Wilkinson, Place du Lac 1; Dr. L. Appia, Rue des 
Chanoines 5 ; Prof. D'Espine, Rue Beauregard 6. Dentist : Dr. Williams, 
Place Metropole 2. — Chemists. Oeo. Baker, Place des Bergues 3; Hahn, 
Place Longemalle ; Belli, Rue du Montblanc, etc. 

Hydropathic Establishment (physician Dr. Glatz) at Champel-sur-Arve 
(p. 213; tramway-station La Cluse), well fitted up. Lofty terrace, open to 
the public, with fine view of the Arve and the town. 

British Consul (for the French-speaking cantons), Daniel F. P. Barton, 
Esq. — American Consul, Lyell T. Adams, Esq. 

English Church (P1.D,3,4) on the right bank, in the Rue du Montblanc. 

— American Episcopal Church, Rue des Voirons (PI. E, 3). — Presbyterian 
Services are also held here in summer. 

Geneva (1243'; pop. 72,000, including the suburbs), Fr. 6e- 
neve, Ital. Ginevra, the capital of the smallest canton next to Zug 
(total pop. 105,966), is the largest and richest town in Switzerland. 
It lies at the S. end of the lake, at the point where the blue waters of 
thu Rhone emerge from it with the swiftness of an arrow, and a little 
above the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve (p. 215). The 



208 Route 64. GENEVA. . History. 

Rhone divides the town into two parts : on the left bank lies the 
Old Town, the seat of government and centre of traffic; on the right 
bank is the Quartier St. Qervais, formerly a suburb only. The old 
fortifications having been removed since 1850, the town has extended 
rapidly, and new streets are still springing up. 

History. Geneva makes its appearance in the 1st cent. B. C. as Ge- 
nava, a town of the Allobroges (Cses. de Bell. Gall., i. 6-8), whose terri- 
tory became a Roman province. In 433 it became the capital of the Bur- 
gundian kingdom, with which it came into the possession of the Franks 
in 533, was annexed to the new Burgundian kingdom at the end of the 
9th cent., and fell to the German Empire in 1033. In 1034 Kmp. Con- 
rad II. ca\ised himself to be crowned here as king of Burgundy. In the 
course of the protracted conflicts for supremacy between the Bishops 
of Geneva, the imperial Counts of Geneva, and the Counts (afterwards 
Dukes) of Savoy, the citizens succeeded in obtaining various privileges. 
In 1518 they entered into an alliance with Freiburg, and in 1526 with 
Bern. Two parties were now formed in the town, the Confederates ('Eid- 
genossen', pronounced by the French 'Higuenos', whence the term 'IIu- 
f/uenots^), and the Mamelukes, partisans of the House of Savoy. 

In the midst of these discords dawned the Befokmation, which Geneva 
zealously embraced. In 1535 the Bishop transferred his seat to Ge.x, and 
the following year the theologian Jean Calvin (properly Caulvin or Chauvin), 
who was born at Noyon in Picardy in 1509, a refugee from Paris, sought 
refuge at Geneva. He attached himself to Farel, the chief promoter of 
the new doctrines at Geneva, and soon obtained great influence in all affairs 
of church and state. In 1538 he was banished , but on bis return three 
years later he obtained almost sovereign power and succeeded in esta- 
blishing a rigid ecclesiastical discipline. His rhetorical powers were of 
the highest order , and the austerity which he so eloquently preached he 
no less faithfully practised. In accordance with the spirit of the age, 
however, his sway was tyrannical and intolerant. Caslellio, who rejected 
the doctrine of predestination, was banished in 1540; and Michael Servetns, 
a Spanish physician who had tied from Vienne in Dauphine in consequence 
of having written a treatise against the doctrine of the Trinity (de Trinilalis 
erroribiis) , and was only a visitor at Geneva, was arrested in 1553 by 
Calvin's order and condemned to the stake and executed by order of the 
Great Council. In 1559 Calvin founded the Geneva Academy, which soon 
became the leading Protestant school of theology, so that the hitherto 
commercial city now acquired repute as a seat of learning also. Calvin 
died on 27th May, 1564, but his doctrine has been firmly rooted in Geneva 
ever since. — The attempts made by the Dukes of Savoy at the beginning 
of the 17th cent, to recover possession of Geneva were abortive, Protestant 
princes, who recognised the town as the bulwark of the Reformed church, 
having contributed considerable sums towards its fortiflcation. 

In the 18th cent. Geneva was greatly weakened by dissensions, often 
leading to bloodshed, between the privileged classes, consisting of the old 
families (citoyenx), who enjoyed a monopoly both of power and of trade, 
and the unprivileged and poorer classes (bourgeois, habitants, and sujets). 
To these dilTorcnccs the writings of Jean Jacques Rousseau, the son of a 
watchmaker, born here in 1712, materially contributed. At the instigation 
of Voltaire and the university of Paris, his 'Emile" and ^Conlrat SociaV 
were burnt in 1763 by the hangman, by order of the magistrates, as being 
'tdmeraires, scandaleux, impies, et tendants a detruire la religion chr^tienne 
et tons les gouvernements". — In 1798 Geneva became the capital of the 
French Ddpartement du Liman, and in 1814 it joined the Swiss Confede- 
ration, of which it became the 22nd Canton. 

The two halves of the city separated by the Rhone are con- 
nected by eight bridges. The highest of these, the handsome *Pont 
du Montblanc (PI. D, 4, 5), 280 yds. long, leads from the Rue du 
Montblanc, a broad street descending from the railway-station, to the 



Quai du Monthlanc. GENEVA. 64. Route. 209 

Jardin Anglais (see p. 210), and with this garden forms the centre 
of attraction to visitors in summer. Between the Pont du Mont- 
hlanc and the Pont des Bergues is Rousseau's Island (PI. D, 4), 
united to the latter by a chain-bridge, and planted with trees (small 
caf^). In the centre rises the bronze statue of the 'wild self-tortur- 
ing sophist', by Pradier (1834). At the third bridge, the Pont de la 
Machine (PL C, 4, above which are the Rhone baths, p. 206), the 
Rhone divides into two branches, the left of which is conducted 
to the waterworks (p. 214), while the right forms the canalized 
channel for the discharge from the lake. 

Handsome quays with tempting shops flank the river near these 
bridges, the principal being the Orand-Quai on the left bank, and 
the Quai des Bergues on the right. Adjacent to the latter is the 
Quai du Montblanc (PI. D, E, 4), extending from the Pont du Mont- 
hlanc towards the N.E., and affording a beautiful survey of the *Mont 
Blanc group, which presents a majestic appearance on clear evenings. 

An idea of the relative heights of the different peaks is better ob- 
tained from this point than at Chamonix. Tlius Mont Blanc is 15,781' in 
height, whilst the Aiguilles du Midi on the left are 12,608 only. Farther 
to the left are the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Ge'ant ; in front of the 
Mont Blanc group are the Aiguilles Rouges; then, more in the foreground, 
the Mule, an isolated pyramid rising from the plain; near it the snowy 
summit of the Aiguille d'Argentiere; then the broad Buet ; lastly the long 
crest of the Voirons, which terminate the panorama on the left, while 
the opposite extremity is formed by the Saleve. 

In the Place des Alpes rises the sumptuous Monument Bruns- 
wick (PI. E, 4), erected to Duke Charles II. of Brunsirick (d. 1873), 
■who bequeathed his property (about 20 million fr.) to the town of 
Geneva. 

The monument (in all 66' in height) is a modified and slightly enlarged 
copy of that of Can Signorio delta Scala at Verona. It was designed by 
Franel, and consists of a hexagonal structure in the form of a pyramid, in 
three stories, composed of white and coloured marble, surmounted by an 
equestrian statue of the duke in bronze, by Cain. 'The central story is 
in the form of a Gothic chapel with a sarcophagus, on which is a recum- 
bent figure of the duke by Icrtiel ; and the reliefs on the sides (scenes from 
the history of Brunswick) are by the same master. At the corners, under 
projecting canopies borne by pillars, are marble statues of six celebrated 
Guelphs; higher up are the Christian virtvies, the Twelve Apostles, etc. 
— The platform is embellished with mosaic pavement, flower-beds, and 
fountains. On the right and left are two colossal Griffins by Cain. The 
pinnacled erection resembling a tower, on the W. side, afl'ords a good 
survey of the monument, with Mont Blanc in the background. 

The continuation of the Quai du Montblanc is formed by the 
Quai des Paquis, planted with trees, on which is the Kursaal (PI. 
E, 3; see p. 207). Behind it is the American Church. This quay 
extends to the Jetee, or pier, which affords another fine view of the 
Alps and of the city. From the pier to the villas of Secheron extends 
the handsome Quai du Leman. — In the Rue du Montblanc is the 
Gothic English Church (PI. D, 3, 4), erected by Monod in 1853. 

On the S. (left) bank of the lake, to the left as we approach from 
the Pont du Montblanc, rises the National Monument (PI. D, 5), 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 14 



210 Route 64. GENEVA. Cathedral. 

a bronze group of Helvetia and Geneva by Dorer, commemorating 
the union of Geneva with the Confederation in 1814. ■ — ^ Farther up 
the lake are the pleasant grounds of the Jardin Anglais (Promenade 
du Lac), with a care - restaurant , where a band often plays on 
summer-evenings. To tiie left of the entrance is a 'barometer co- 
lumn', and in the centre of the garden are a pretty fountain and a 
bronze bust of Al. Calame (p. 213} by Iguel. A 'kiosque' here con- 
tains an interesting ^Relief of Mont Blanc (adm. from 8 a.m.; Sun. 
and Thurs. 1-3 gratis; at other times 1/.2 fr.), in limewood, 26' in 
length, affording a good general idea of the relative heights of the 
'monarch of mountains' and his vassals. 

On the lake, to the N. of the Jardin Anglais, extends the broad 
Quai des Eaux-Vives, planted with trees. (To Cologny, see p. 215). 
Near the Quai is the Salle de la Reformation (PI. E, 6), containing 
a large concert-hall, the Calvinium, with memorials of Calvin, art- 
icles brought home by missionaries, etc. (adm. '/g f^.) , and an 
interesting Relief Model of Jerusalem by Illes. 

Ascending the Rue d'ltalie , to the right near the Hotel Me'tro- 
pole, for a few paces, we reach the Promenade de St. Antoine (PL 
C, D, 6), a terrace planted with trees. On the right is the Colleye 
de St. Antoine, founded by Calvin in 1559; to the left (E.) is the 
Observatory, and on a height farther off (S.E.) rises the Russian 
Church, with its gilded domes, the Interior of which is worth seeing. 
Adjacent is a bronze bust of R. Topffer (d. 1846), the author. 

The Rue des Chaudronniers leads S.W. from the Promenade to 
the Place du Bourg-de-Four (PI. C, 6), in which to the right is 
the Palais de Justice, containing the Musee Epigraphique, a col- 
lection of Roman and mediaeval inscriptions found at Geneva. — 
Leaving the upper end of the Place by the Rue de Vllotel de Ville, 
we turn to the right to reach the — 

Cathedral (S<. Pierre; PI. C, 6), completed in 1024 by Emp. 
Conrad II. in the Romanesque style, altered in the 12th and 13th 
cent., and disfigured in the 18th by the addition of a Corinthian por- 
tico. The interior is in the transition style of the 13th century. 
The verger lives at the back of the church, Rue Farel 8 ('/-i fr.). 

Interior. Carved stalls of the i5th century. Monument of Duke Henri 
de liolian (leader of the Protestants under Louis XIII.), who fell at Rhein- 
felden (p. 17) in 1638, of his wife Marg. de Sully, and his son Tancrede ; 
the black marble sarcophagus rests on two lions ; the statue of the duke, 
in a sitting posture, has been restored in plaster, the original having been 
destroyed in 1798. Beneath a black tombstone in the nave lies Cardinal 
Jean de Brogrty (d. 1426), president of the Council of Constance. A black 
stone in the S. aisle is to the memory o( Agrippa d^Atibignc (d. 1630 at Geneva, 
in e.xile), the confidant of Henry IV. of France, erected to him, in gratitude 
for his services, by the Republic of Geneva. Under the pulpit is a chair 
once used by Calvin. Adjoining is the beautiful Gothic 'Chapelle des Mac- 
cliabees, dating from the beginning of the 15th cent, (recently restored). Ad- 
mirable Organ (concerts, see p. 207). 

We now return to the Rue de rilotcl de Ville, and turn to the 
left to the — 



University. GENEVA, f].d. Route. 211 

Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 5, 6), a clumsy building in tlie Flor- 
entine style, which is entered by an inclined plane, enabling the 
councillors to ride, or be conveyed in litters, to or from the council- 
chambers. — Opposite is the Arsenal (PI. C, 5; !Sun. and Thurs., 
1-4), containing the Musee Historique Generois, a collection of old 
weapons, the ladders used at the 'Escalade' (see below), etc. 

In the vicinity, Grand" Rue No. 40, is the house in which Rous- 
seau, the son of a watchmaker, was born (1712, d. 1778 at Erme- 
nonville near Paris). Ilis grandfather lived at that time at the back 
of Rue Rousseau 27, on the right bank of the Rhone . which bears 
an erroneous inscription that Rousseau was born there. 

The Musee Fol (PL C, 5 ; Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), Grand' Rue 11, 
founded by M. W. Fol, contains (in the court to the right) a valuable 
collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities, the yield of 
recent excavations, and mediaeval and Renaissance curiosities. 

The Rue de la Cite , the lower prolongation of the Grand' Rue, 
leads to the Rue des Allemands , where a tasteful Fountain Monu- 
ment (PI. C, 4) commemorates the last and nearly successful attempt 
of the Savoyards to gain possession of the town. The day on which 
the 'Escalade' was repulsed (early on 12th Dec. 1602) is still kept 
with public rejoicings. 

A gateway adjoining the H6tel-de-Ville (see above) leads to the 
shady promenades of La Treille, which afford a fine view of the 
Saleve. Adjacent to this terrace is the Botanic Garden (PL B, C, 
5, 6,), laid out in 1816 by the celebrated Aug. de CandoUe. The 
hot-house is adorned with marble busts of famous Genevese, and 
in front of it, on a bronze pedestal, rises a colossal bust of De 
Candolle. Close by is a bust of E. Boissieu (d. 1885), the botanist. 
The adjoining Promenade des Bastions is a favourite resort. (At 
the entrance, adjoining the Place Neuve, is the Kiosque des Bastions, 
p. 206.) In the grounds opposite are a statue of David by Chapon- 
niere and the ^Pierre aux fees', or ^aux dames', with four figures, 
said to be a Druidical stone. To the E. is the monument of Gosse, 
the geologist. 

The Athenee (PI. C, 6), to the S.E. of the Botanical Garden, 
a Renaissance edifice, the faijade of which is adorned with busts of 
nine famous Genevese, was erected by the wife of the 'philhellenist' 
Eynard, and presented to the Societe des Amis des Beaux-Arts. It 
contains lecture-rooms, a library of works on the history of art , an 
exhibition of works of art (p. 207), and on the sunk-floor the Musee 
Industriel (Thurs. and Sun., 1-2). In the latter are preserved the 
machines used by L. Favre in boring the St. Gotthard tunnel. — 
Near it is the Ecole de Chhnie. 

The University Buildings (PI. B, 6), on the Bastion Prome- 
nade, erected in 1867-71, consist of three different parts connected 
by glass galleries. The central part contains the lecture-rooms and 
laboratories, the E. wing the collection of antiquities, coins, and 

14* 



212 Route 64. GENEVA. Musie Rath. 

medals and the Library, and the W. wing the Nat. Hist. Museum. 
In the vestibule is a bronze bust of the Swiss author Marc Monnier 
by Dufaux. The university has 70 professors and about 700 stu- 
dents. Ladies arc admitted to the lectures. 

The Bibliotheque Publique, containing 100,000 vols, and 1600 MSS., 
founded liy Bonivard, the prisoner of Chillon (p. 226) in 1551, is splendidly 
fitted up. The first floor contains the reading-room (Sat. 9-4, on other week- 
days 9-8 oYl.; closed in the afternoon during the university vacations). A 
hiill ('Salle Ami Lullin') on the ground-floor, to the right of the entrance, 
contains valuable ancient and modern portraits of princes, reformers, and Ge- 
nevese and French statesmen and scholars, chiefly of the time of the Refor- 
mation (Necker; Lafontaine; Descartes; Winckelmann , by A. Kaufmann\ 
De Saussure; Turquet de Mayerne, attributed to Ruhens; Ch. Bonnet, by 
Juehl ; Sismondi ; De CandoUe, hyfforniing; Humbert; Euler ; D'Aubigne; 
Farel ; Beza : Calvin ; Diderot ; Knox ; Zwingli ; Admiral Coligny ; Rabelais, 
etc.). This room also contains a collection of MSS., including autographs 
of Calvin and Rousseau. The most valuable MSS. are exhibited in glass 
cases : homilies of St. Augustine on papyrus (6th cent.) ; house-keeping 
accounts of Philip le Bel (1308) ; many with miniatures, some of them 
captured from Charles the Bold at Grandson (p. 198). On an old reading- 
desk is a French Bible (printed at Geneva in 1588), richly bound in red 
morocco, and bearing the arms of France and Navarre, which was destined 
by the Council of Geneva as a gift to Henry IV., but never presented 
owing to his abjuration of Protestantism. The concierge expects a fee for 
showing this room. On the ground-floor is the Cabinet of Coins; and on 
the sunk-floor is the Archaeological Museum, containing prehistoric and 
other antiquities, chiefly of local interest (Sun. and Thurs., 1-4). 

The Natural History Museum, admirably arranged by F. J. Pictet, 
contains the famous collection of conchylia of B. Delessert (formerly 
Duke Massena), which has been described by Lamarck ; Pictet's collection 
of fossils ; De Saussure's geological collection , described in his 'Voyages 
dans les Alpes"; Melly's collection of about 35,000 coleoptera; a complete 
collection of the fauna of the environs of Geneva ; valuable rock-crystals 
from the Tiefengletscher (p. 115), presented by M. Revilliod, etc. — Ad- 
mission to the Museum on week-days (except Tues. and Sat.), 1-4, and 
Sun., 11-4, gratis; at other times apply to the concierge (fee). 

To the N.W., in the Place Neuve (PI, B, 6) is an equestrian 
statue of Gen. Dufour (d. 1875), in bronze from a model by Lanz. 
On the W. side of the Place rises the new *Theatre, designed by 
Ooss, and erected in 1872-79, a handsome Renaissance building, 
with a facade enriched with columns and figures. The interior (with 
1300 seats), richly embellished with sculptures and mural paint- 
ings, deserves a visit (adm. on week-days 1-4). 

The *Musee Rath, opposite the theatre, containing a collection 
of pictures, casts, etc., was founded by the Russian general Rath, a 
native of Geneva , and presented to the city by his sisters. It has 
since been much extended. Admission in summer, Mon., Wed., 
Thurs., andFrid. 1-4, and Sun. 11-4, gratis; at other times, l/o fr. 
(catalogue '/g fr.). 

Vestibcle. In the centre, Borghese vase; on the right, busts of Mo- 
liere and Xecker, by ffoudon; Ch. Bonnet by Jaqiiet; Sismondi by Pradier; 
on the left, bronze bust of Duke Charles II. of Brunswick (p. 209). Left 
(Salle Pradier): Models and busts by Pradier; busts in bronze (Pradier, 
Humbert, Jacqaet); busts in marble (Bellot, Rousseau). Odier, Charles the 
Bold in the church at Nesle. Relief by Chaponni^re. Right (Salle Cha- 
roKNifeRE): Principal door of the baptistery at Florence by Ghiberti; an- 
tiqne torso; Venus. Im/iof, Kve. Chnponniire: Greek captive, David, Bust 



Jardin Alpin. GENEVA. 64. Route. 213 

of V. V. Bonstetten (p. 218j. — The paintings are arranged in three rooms; 
to the left, the Salle Liotard, with an adjoining cabinet, in the centre 
the Salle Calame, and to the right, the Salle Didat. As the arrange- 
ment of the pictures is frequently changed the more interesting are here 
mentioned in the alphabetical order of the artists' names. — 1. Agasse, 
At the smithy; 4. Af/asse <t- Topffe?; Horse-fair; 23. Bocion, Lake of Ge- 
neva; 29. Louise Breslau, The friends; 30. Bwnand, Farm-yard; Alex- 
andre Calame (of Vevav, 1810-64), '31. Thunder-storm on the Handegg; 
32-35. The Seasons; 40'. Castrea, Counting the prisoners (1871); Corot, 46. 
The Repose, 47. Ville d'Avray, 48. S. Trinita dei Monti at Rome. .50. Blont- 
martre; 51. Coypel, Bacchus and Venus; Francois Didat/ (of Geneva, 
1802-77), *62. Oaks in a storm, 63. Pissevache, 64. Giessbach; D'Jnvernois, 
Sea-piece; 65. Burand, After the reviev?; *77. Duval, (In the upper Nile; 
85. Fttret, Heron; 98. Gaud, Cider-Press; 93. Oirardet, Arab at prayer; 
94. Giron, Education of Bacchus; 85. Graf-Reinhart, Interior of the cathedral 
at Monreale; 96. Greuze, Child's head (a study); 97. Grosclaude, The vol- 
unteer; 101. Guigon, The Pihone at Geneva; 104. Uibert, After the escal- 
ade (p. 211); Hornung., *108. Catherine de' Medici before the head of Ad- 
miral Coligny, 109. A captive; *116. Iltimbert, The ford; 121. Jeanmaire 
Pine-forest; 123. Koller, Cattle; 115. Lairesse, Bacchanalian; 127, 12^. Largil- 
liere. Portraits ; 132. Leleux, Interval of rest in the studio ; Liotard, 135, 
141. Portraits of himself; *142. Madame d'Epinay, 143. Maria Theresa; 
151^1. Lugardon, The Eiger; 147. /. L. Lugardon, Arnold von Melchthal; 
231. Muyden, Pifferari; F. Poiirbtis. 177. Portrait, 178. Maria de' Medici; 
*180. iJatJci, Drawing-lesson; i8i. Eobellaz, Betvi^een two fires; 183. Rigaud, 
Elizabeth Charlotte, duchess of Orleans; Liopold Robert (of Chaux-de- 
Fonds, 1794-1835), 187, 186. Italian and Bernese girls, 188. Sacristy of S. Gio- 
vanni in Laterano at Rome; 219. Simon, The poacher; 210. Snyders, Dog 
fighting vpith a heron; 217. Thuilier, Lake of Annecy; 220. Topffer, Leav- 
ing church in winter; Velazquez, 239, 240. Philip IV. of Spain, and his 
consort Maria Anna of Austria; 242. Jos. Vernei, Sea-piece; 245. Yuillemiet, 
Portrait; 249. Ziegler, Marriage on board ship. 

On the S.W. side of the Place Neuve is the Conservatoire de 
Musique , erected in 1858 ; behind it is the handsome Eglise du 
Sacre-Coeur. To the S. of this, between the Hue du Conseil-Ge- 
neral and the Boulevard de Plainpalals , is the Bdtiment Electoral, 
bearing the motto of Geneva, 'post tenebras lux' ; it contains a large 
hall , used for exhibitions and concerts. — On the Boulevard <le 
Plainpalais (PI. D, 6) is a Panorama, representing the siege of 
Belfort, by Berne and Bellecour (adm. 1 fr.}. — Beyond the Plaine 
de Plainpalais (drill-ground) on theArve are situated the Barracks 
and the well-equipped Ecole de Me'decine. In the neighbourhood, 
Chemin Dancet 2 (PI. A, 7), is the interesting Jardin Alpin 
d'Acclimatation , with a rich collection of European and Asiatic 
Alpine plants (for sale), open daily except Sun. (best time 8-10 
a.m. and 5-8 p.m.). Annual subscription for members , 2 fr. 
Director M. H. Correvon. 

Tramways run from the Rond Point de Plainpalais (PI. A, B, 6) 
to Carouge (p. 215). To the left, on a terrace above Carouge, on 
the right bank of the Arve, is the favourite hydropathic establish- 
ment of Champel-sur-Arve (p. 207). Higher up is the *Towr de 
Champel, a view-tower commanding a splendid survey of the town, 
tlie lake, and the Alps. 

Keturning to the Place Neuve, we may now pass the Synagogue 
(PI. B, 4 ; to the W.) and visit the Pont de la Coulouvreniere , the 



211 Route 64. GENEVA. Musee de I'Ariana. 

lowest of the bridges. IJelovv the bridge arc the new Waleriiwrks 
(Forces Motrices du lihone), with large water-wheels driven by the 
dammed-up water of the Rhone, which not only supply the houses of 
Geneva but afford motive power equal to 4200 horses for the use 
of manufactories. On the left, beyond the bridge, is the Promenade 
St. Jean (PI. B, 3), with a bronze bust of James Fazy (d. 1878), the 
Genevese statesman, by Holland. We next pass the Ecole d'Horlo- 
gerie, with the Musee des Arts Decoratifs (adm. daily, except. Sat., 
11-4, Sun. 9-12), containing an important collection of engravings 
and the models of the Brunswick Monument (p. 209), the Ecole des 
Arts Industriels, and the simple and handsome old- Catholic church 
of Notre-Bame, and soon reach the railway-station. 

About 21/4 M. to the N.W. of the railway-station , at Varembe, 
is the *Mtisee de I'Ariana, the property of M. Gust. Revilliod, 
a handsome Renaissance building, adorned with busts of celebrated 
artists and commanding a magnificent view of the laiie and the 
Alps. (Adm. in summer on Tues., Thurs., and Frid. 1-5, gratis; 
tickets at the hotels in Geneva.) 

The imposing *Ve.stii!ule, with a double tier of marble columns, 
contains a group of angels (in the centre) by Guglielmi , marble busts, 
vases, etc. The Central Couridor is hung with tapestry representing 
the history of Coustantine the Great, after Rubens \s designs; the ceiling- 
paintings (the seasons , etc.) are by IJufour. To the left of the ball are 
three Oriental Rooms, containing Asiatic porcelain, bronzes, inlaid 
work, ivory carvings, and European faience ; to the right are Ibe collections 
of European porcelain, Etruscan vases, aiticles from AUemannic graves, 
etc. — First Floor. On the staircase is a Chinese boudoir, and at the top, 
antique furniture, weapon.s , and stained glass. The Picture Gallerv 
occupies four rooms on this floor. Boom I. : Portraits by Gvercino, Gior- 
ffione, Holbein. Rigaud, Bronzino , and others; in the centre, a small an- 
tique head of Venus. — Room II.: Copy after Qu. Maisj/s, Tax-gatherers; 
.S'e6. del .Viombo ^ Bearing of the Cross; Ribera, John lhe Baptist; Lucas 
van Lei/den, Madonna; Fiti, Boar-hunt; "Raphael., Madonna of Vallom- 
brosa; Madonnas by L. Credi , Van Dych , and others. — Room III. con- 
tains chiefly flower-pieces, studies of still-life, and other small examples 
of the Netherlands school; marble busts of M. Eevilliod and his mother 
by Dupliot. — Room IV.: Modern paintings. Lugardon, Matterhorn, Jung- 
frau, Swiss Confederates at Riitli; Landscapes by Didaij , C'alame , and 
Duval; Cattle-pieces by Humbert, Agasse, and Delarive; Genre-scenes by 
Vautier , jt>. Durand , Rubio, Tiipffer, and others. — On the other side of 
the large hall are paintings l)y Horace Revilliod; portraits, pastels, and 
drawings by early Genevese masters; engravings (10,000 plates); a hand- 
somely fitted library, with glass-cases containing interesting autographs; 
glass, ivory carvings, antique Genevese tinware; and the Silver Chamber, 
containing ornaments, coins, medals, enamels, etc. 

Environs of Geneva. Both banks of the lake near Geneva arc 
studded with villas ('campagncs'), with beautiful gardens, of which 
a few may be mentioned here. 

Right (W.) Bank. At Varembe, Mcculloch ('Chateau de ITmperatrice', 
once occupied by the Empress .loscphine, and afterwards by Lola Mon- 
tez) ; at Le Rivage, the Villa of the Countess Gaspavin ; at Pregny ( I4S(i'), 
Baroness Adolf Rothschild (an imposing chateau; magnificent '-View of 
Mont Blanc from the pavilion; admission usually on Tues. and Frid., 2-6, 
by tickets, procured gratis at the hotels at Geneva). The road to it from 
Geneva leads to the left by the station and passes under the railway, this 



Environs. GENEVA. 64. Route. 215 

being also the road to Ferney, which we follow past the Musee de TAriana 
(p. 214) as far as a (1 M.) garden-pavilion, where a finger-post indicates the 
way to (1 M.) Pregny to the right. Adjacent is the Campagne Favre-Riffand, 
also commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc (always accessible). 

Left (E.) Bank. At Les Faux- Vives is Favve de la Grange (a magnifi- 
cent villa, containing the Parting of Venus and Adonis, an early work of 
Canova). At Cologny, on the lake (see below) is the Villa Diodali (villa 
of Lord Byron). 

Walks. One of the finest walks in the environs is on the Right Bank, 
passing Petit and Grand Saconnex, along the brow of the hill, command- 
ing the lake and Mont Blanc, and down to (6 M.) Versoix (p. 217; back by 
rail or steamer). — On the Left Bank: along the <l\ia.i des Eaux Vives, 
planted with plane-trees, up the lake to (3 M.) Vesenaz {Inn. with garden 
by the lake, \n La Belotte)\ return to (3'|2 M.) Geneva via Cologny [Chalet 
Suisse; Cafi des Alpes). with a charming view of the lake, or farther 
to the E. viii Ghougny, with a fine survey of Jlont Blanc. 

The Bois de la Batie, at the confluence of the Khone and the Arve, 
is reached from the Panorama (p. 207) in Vsl"". by descending to the Arve 
Bridge (passing on the left the slaughter-houses and the cattle-market), 
and ascending through the wood to the top of the hill, which affords a 
fine survey of the town and environs. (Two cabarets.) The gray water of 
the Arve and the blue water of the Elione fiow side by side for several 
hundred yards below their conlluence (La Jonciion) without mixing. — 
Adjoining the Bois is the new Cemetery of St. George (1400'). We may 
now return to the town by the new Aroe Quay, passing the Ecole de Me'- 
decine, the Jardin Alpin, the Barracks, and the Plaine de Pluiupalais. 

Omnibuses (Y2 fr.) leave the Place Cornavin (near the station) every 
hour for Ferney or Fernex ( Truite; II6t. de France)., 4V2 31. to the N. W. of 
Geneva. The road leads by Saconnex (see above). A hill near Petit Saconnex 
affords a charming view of Geneva, the lake, and Mont Blanc. We next 
pass through Grand Saconnex, and reach Ferney. in French territory, a 
place of which Voltaire may be regarded as the founder. He purchased 
the land in 1759, attracted colonists, founded manufactories, and built 
a chateau for himself, which, though much altered, still contains a few 
rooms with reminiscences of the founder (adm. on week-days, 12-4). Fine 
view from the garden-terrace. 

A favourite excursion from Geneva is to the Saleve , a long hill of 
limestone rock to the S. K. of the town. The N. end is called the Petit- 
Salive (2950'), adjoining which are the Grand-Salkve (4290') and the Petit 
and Grand Piton (4506'). The finest point of view is the Grand-Saleve 
(Auberge des Treize Arbres), whence we survey the Mont Blanc chain, 
the Lake of Geneva, the Jura, Ihe cantons of Geneva and Vaud, and 
part of France. 

The direct route to the Saleve leads by the (3'/4 M.) village of Veirier 
(1400'), situated close to the French border, at the foot of the Saleve 
(steam-tramway from the Place Molard via Florissant and Sicrne, in 20 min., 
50 c.1. From the terminus we keep straight on, pass under the railway 
(p. 246), and ascend the steep but not difficult Pas de PEchelle to ("2 hr.) 
Uonnetier (2333'; '/Jdt.-Pens. de la Reconnaissance; "H6t.-Pens. Trottct). 
situated in the depression between the Petit and Grand-Saleve. In the 
neighbourhood are the Balines de VErmitage, a number of grottoes offering 
pretty views of the Lake of Geneva. From this point the Petit-SaUve is 
ascended in 1/2 1""., the Grand-Saleve in iV2 hr., by a good bridle-path 
(donkev 1 fr. per hr.). About '/4 li"'- lielow the summit is the Auberge 
des Treize Avhres (3850'). — Another route to the Grand-Saleve (8 hrs.) 
from Geneva is by (li/i M.) Carouge (120O' ; Balance; Feu de. Savoie). a 
small town founded in 1780 by Victor Amadeus VII. of Savoy, who 
attracted a number of Genevcse artisans hither by the oft'er of special 
advantages. It has belonged to Geneva since 1815. By the tramway ter- 
minus a finger-post indicates the road to Crevin to the left. Where the 
road divides we always keep to the left till we reach the railwaj'-cmbank- 
ment, under which we pass; we then ascend the Grande Gorge by a path 
much damaged by floods in 1888, but now repaired. 



216 Route 65. LAKE OF GENEVA. 

The carriage-road from Geneva to Monnctier (carriage to Murncx 15-18, 
to Monnetier 20-25 fr. ; or tramway to Annemcif^sc , p. 253, and tbenco by 
omnibus) leads by Chine and Etremhih-cs to (7 M.) Mornex (]805'; "Bellcvue; 
HOI. de Savoie; Pension Bain, in the old chateau, etc. J, a charming villa;ic 
on the S. slope of the Petit -Saleve, visited as a health-resort (railway- 
statiiin, p. 252). A good road ascends hence to (l'/2 M.) Monnetier. 

The long range of the ' Voirons, to the N.E. of Geneva, commanding 
a superb view of the Alps of Savoy, the Jura Bits., etc., is another favourite 
point. Railway (Geneva and Eaux-Vivea Station, p. 205) via Annemasse 
(p. 253) to (50 min.) Bons-St. Didier; thence a drive of 3 hrs., or a walk of 
21/2 brs. to the summit. In summer omnibus from Bons St. Didier to the 
top on three afternoons weekly (Mon., Wed. , Sat.) in 3 hrs. (4 fr., one- 
horse carr. 10 fr.). On the E. slope, 100' below the summit, is the "H6tel 
de VErmitage (pens. 6-8 fr.), in the midst of pine-wood, visited as a health 
resort; and 10 min. below it is the unpretending II6t. du Chalet. Charming 
walks to the (10 min.) pavilion on the Calvah-e ., or (,'rand Signal., the 
highest point (4875') ; to the (20 min.) old monastery (459U') on the N.W. 
slope; to the Crete d'Audoz, an eminence '/z ^^- to the S.W.; and to the 
(1 hr.) Pralaire (4630'), the S. peak. 

Ascent of the ''D6le from (jeneva bv the Col de la Faucille, l^/■^ hrs., 
see p. 218. 

65. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and 
Villeneuve. Lake of Geneva (North Bank). 

81 M. Railway in 43/4-6 hrs. (to Lausanne l'/2-2Vii to Vevey 21/4- 
31/4 hrs.); fares 13 fr. 55, 9 fr. 50, 6 fr. 80 c. (to Lausanne 6 fr. 35, 4fr. 50, 3fr. 
20c.; to Vevey 8fr. 35, 5 fr. 90, 4fr. 20c.). Return-tickets from Geneva to 
St. Maurice, and from Bouveret to Brieg, are available for two days, and 
may be used for the steamers, and vice versa. 

Steamboats along the Nokthern Bank far preferable to the railway: to 
Morges (4 fr., 1 f r. 70c.) in 21/2 hrs. ; to Ouchv (for Lausanne, 5fr., 2 fr.) in 
3 hrs. ; to Vevey (6 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c.) in 31/2-4 hrs. ; to Villeneuve (71/2 fr., 
3fr.) in 4V2-4V4 hrs.; to Bouveret (71/2 fr., 3 fr.) in 43/4-5 hours. Return- 
tickets for three days at a fare and a half, available also for returning by 
railway, but not unless specially asked for. The cabin-tickets are available 
for the second class only; if the holder desires to travel first class he may 
obtain a supplementai-y ticket from the guard. Steamboat-.stations on the 
N. bank (all with pier.s) : Bellevue , Versoix, Mies, Coppei, Ciligny , Nyon, 
Rolle, St. Prex, Morges. St. Sulpice, Ouchy (Lausanne), Pully, Lutry, Cully, 
Rivaz-St. Saphorin, Corsier (near the Grand Hotel de Vevey), Vevey-Marchi, 
Yevey-La Tour, Clarens, Montreux-Vernex, Terrilet-Chillon, Villeneuve. The 
express steamers leaving Geneva (Quai du Montblanc) at 9 a.m. and 1.25 
p.m. touch at the following stations only: — Kyon, Thonon and Evian on 
the S. bank, Ouchy, Vevey, Clarens, Montreux, Territet, Villeneuve, and 
Bouveret. — Several steamboats also ply daily between the N. and S. banks 
(Nyon-Nernier, Nyon-Thonon), and between Evian and Geneva. — Good 
restaurants on board (D. 2'/2-3 fr.). 

The *Lake of Geneva (1230'), Fr. Lac Leman, Ger. Genfer See, 
the Lacus Lemunus of the Romans, is 45 M. in length, upwards of 
8 M. broad between Morges and Amphion, and i^j.i M. between the 
Pointe de Genthod and Bellerive ; 250' deep near Chillon , 940' 
near Meillerie, HOC between Ouchy and Evian (deepest part), and 
240' between Nyon and Geneva. The area is about 225 sq. M., 
being 15 sq. M. more than that of the Lake of Constance. In shape 
the lake resembles a half moon, with the horns turned towards the 
S. and this form is most distinctly observed from the Signal de 
Bougy (p. 219). The E. horn formerly extended 9 M. farther to- 






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VERSOIX. 65. Route. 217 

wards Bex , but the deposits of the Khone have gradually filled up 
this part of the lake, and are daily extending this alluvial tract. 

The deep-blue Colouk of the Lake of Geneva differs from that of the 
other Swiss lakes , which are all more or less of a greenish hue. This 
blue tint was supposed by Sir Humphrey Davy (who lived some years at 
Geneva , and died there in 1828) to be due to the presence of iodine, 
but the cause of the phenomenon has never been actually ascertained. 
The BiKDS which haunt the lake are wild swans (Cycnus olor), the de- 
.scendants of tame birds introduced at Geneva in 1838, ^ulls (Larus ridi- 
bundus), sea-swallows (Sterna hirundo), and numerous birds of passage, 
such as ducks and divers. There are twenty-one different kinds of Fisii, 
the most esteemed of which are the trout, the 'Ritter'', the 'Fiira' (C'ore- 
goims; the 'Felchen'' of the Lake of Constance), and the perch. 

The Vegetation of the banks partakes to some extent of a southern 
character. Side by side grow the sweet and the wild chestnut-tree, the 
magnolia, the trumpet-wood, the cedar of Lebanon, and trellised vines. 
Figs and pomegranates are also of frequent occurrence, but only the former 
reach maturity. 

A phenomenon freq\iently observed on the Lake of Geneva, and some- 
times on other lakes also, consists in the so-called 'Seiches', or fluctua- 
tions in the level of the water, which within a few minutes rises or falls 
several inches or even feet above or below its usual level. These seiches 
are caused by any sudden alteration in the atmospheric pressure and most 
commonly occur after storms, being in fact analogous to the ground-swell 
of the ocean. The seiches longiludinales, or those running from one end 
of the lake to the other, usually take about 73 min. to travel from Ville- 
neuve to Geneva, while the seiches transversales cross from the Swiss to 
the Savoy side in 10 minutes. The highest longitudinal swell on record 
was observed at Geneva on 3rd Oct. 1841, measuring over G ft. in height, 
while the transverse swell rarely exceeds 8 inches in height. (F. A.Forel.) 

The Level of the lake is lowest at the end of winter, and highest in 
summer during the melting of the snow on the Alps. The average dif- 
ference between high and low water is about 5 ft., while the difference 
between the highest (1817) and lowest (1830) recorded levels amounts to 
nearly 9 ft. — The Tempek.^tuke of the lake varies from 45'' in winter 
to 75° or even 85" in summer, while in the deeper parts it never rises 
above 42-44°. The lake has never been known to freeze over entirely. 

The Navigation is inconsiderable, but large barges of 300 tons' burden 
are occasionally seen. The graceful lateen-sail used here, and rarely seen 
elsewhere except on the Mediterranean, has a very picturesque appearance. 

The lake has for centuries been a favourite theme with writers of all 
countries — Byron, Voltaire, Rousseau, Al. Dumas, and many others. 
On the N. side the deep-blue water is bounded by gently .sloping hills, 
richly clothed with vineyards and orchards, and enlivened with numerous 
smiling villages. To the E. and S. a noble background is formed by 
the long chain of the mountains of Valais and Savoy, of which the 
higher ground on the N. bank afl'ords a good survey ; but Mont Blanc 
itself is visible from the W. bank only, from Geneva," Nyon, RoUe, and 
particularly from Morges (p. 219). 

Steamboat Journey (piers by the Jardin Anglais and the Quai 
du Montblanc; comp. p. 205). The banks of the lake arc clothed 
with rich vegetation and studded with charming villas. On the 
left, the large Hotel National, the Musee de TAriana, and the 
grandly-situated chateau of Pregny (p. 214) ; farther on, Genthod, 
prettily situated , once the residence of the famous naturalists 
Saussure, Ch. Bonnet, and Pictet de la Rive. The steamer stops at 
Bdlevue. 

Versoix (Lion (VOr), a considerable village (1358 inhab."), onoe 
belonged to France. Choiseul, the minister of Louis XV., being 



218 Route 65. NYON. From Geneva 

hostile to Geneva, contemplated founding a rival city here, and tlio 
streets were mapped out, but the design was afterwards abandoned. 

Coppet (Croix Blanche; Ange; Hot. -Pens. duLac). The chateau, 
now the property of M. d'Haussonville, was inhabited from 1790 
till 1804 by Necker, a native of Geneva , who became a banker at 
Paris and minister of finance to Louis XVI. His daughter, the cele- 
brated Mme. de Stael (d. 1817), also resided at the chateau for 
some years. Uer writing-table, her portrait by David, and a bust 
of Necker are shown to visitors. 

From Coppet (carr. at the station) a road leads by Commngny and 
Chavannes de Bogis to (3V2 M.) Divonne (1543'; excellently lilted up hy- 
dropathic estab.), charmingly situated beyond the French frontier in the 
Pays de Qex (from Nyon 5 M., diligence in connection with the express 
trains in 55 min. ; from Geneva 12 M., carr. in l'/' hr., with one horse 15-18, 
with two horses 25 fr.). Ascent of the Dole from Divonne, see below. 

Celigny Is prettily situated on a hill a little way inland. Farther 
on Is the Chateau de Crans. 

Nyon C^Beaurivage, with garden on the lake; *Ange, pens. 
5-6 fr. ; Couronne ; Odelet) was the Colonia Julia Equestris, or Novio- 
dunum, of the Romans (4170 inhab.). The ancient castle, with walls 
10' thick, and five towers, built in the 12th cent. , and now the pro- 
perty of the town, was once occupied by Victor v. Bonstetten(d. 1832), 
the author, who was frequently visited here by eminent Swiss savants. 
The terrace and the pleasant promenades of the upper part of the 
town afford a beautiful view of the lake, the Jura, and the Alps, 
with Mont Blanc. Several relics of the Roman period still exist here. 

Ascent of the Dole, very interesting. A high-road (diligence) leads 
from Nyon through the Jura by (1 hr.) Trelex^ (2 hrs.) St. Cergues, and 
(2 hrs.) Les Bousses, a small French frontier fort, to (1 hr.) Aforez, a little 
town in the French department of Jura. From Nyon on foot in 3 hrs., 
to St. Gergues (3432'; IlStel de la Paste; '-'Hot. -Pens. Capl; Pension Delaigue; 
"Observatoire, a hotel and pension on a height, 5 min. from the post-office, 
between the old chateau of St. Cergues and the Noir-Mont, with the finest 
view), a large village and summer resort at the N.E. base of the Dole, two- 
thirds of the way from the top. The traveller should drive from Nyon as far 
as the beginning of the well-shaded old road, V/-2 M. beyond Trelex, which 
follows the telegraph-wires , and ascends straiglit to St. Cergues (3 M.). 
From St. Cergues (guide 5 fr., not indispensable) we ascend to the (1 hr.) 
Chalet du Vouarne, and through the depre.'Jsion (La Porte) between the 
Vouarne and the Dole, to the (1 hr.) top of the 'Dole (5505'), the highest 
summit of the Swiss Jura. The view is picturesque and extensive, and 
Mont Blanc is seen in all its majesty. — From Gingins, IV2 M. to the W. of 
Trelex, a good road leads to the (7'/2 M-) Chalets de la Divonne, V2 hr. from 
the top of the Dole. — Another leads by La Jiippe, 3^/4 M. from Celigny 
(see above), and l'/2 M. from Divonne (see above), and before reaching 
e/i M.) Vendome, enters the broad path (to the right) through the wood, which 
after 3 31. joins the road from Gingcns. — The best route for pedestrians 
from Geneva (7i/.j hrs. to tlic summit of the Dole) is by the Col de la 
Faucille, a deep depression in tlie Jura chain, to the N.W. of Geneva. 
We follow the carriage-road by Ferney to (3 hrs.) Gex (2120'; Hot. de la 
Poste; Hot. du Commerce), a small French town, at the foot of the Jura; 
thence we proceed to (I'/j l"".) the Fontaine NapoUon and the (3/4 hr.) Col 
de la Faiicille (4355'; Jnn). We keep to the road (to Morez, see above) for 
l'/4 hr. more, finally diverging to the right beyond the La Vasserode inn, 
whence we ascend to the summit in l'/2 hr. 



to Martigny. ROLLE. 65- Route. 219 

Dilittciicp, fniiii Les Hoiisses (see p. 218) and Le Srassiis., to the Lac de 
Juiix, Le Lieu, and Le Pont, a pleasant route (comp. p. 205). 

Farther on , among trees , is the chateau of Pranyins, formerly 
occupied by Joseph Bonaparte. A great part of the estate of La Ber- 
gerie , or Chalet de Prangins, which once belonged to him, is now 
the property of Prince Jerome Napole'on. The old chateau itself 
now contains a Moravian school for boys. 

On a promontory lies Promenthoux, and on the opposite (Savoyard) 
bank, 3M. distant, Yvoire(jp. 239). The JuraMts. gradually recede. 
The most conspicuous peaks are the Dole (p. 218), and to the right of 
it the Noir-Mont (5118'). The lake forms a bay between the mouth 
of the Promenthouse and the Aubonne (p. 228) beyond RoUe , and 
here attains its greatest width. The banks of this bay, called La 
Cote, yield one of the best Swiss white wines. 

Rolle (*Tete Noire, plain, with garden; Couronne) , the birth- 
place of the Russian general De laHarpe, tutor of Emp. Alexander I., 
and one of the most zealous advocates for the separation of Canton 
Vaud from Bern (1798). An islet in the lake contains an Obelisk 
to his memory. 

On a vine-clad liill, 1 hr. fo the N. of Rolle, above the village oi Bougy, 
is the 'Signal de Bougy (2910'), a famous point of view, which commands 
the lake, the Savoy Jits., and Mont Blauc. The best way to it is from 
Stat. Aubonne-Allaman (p. 228) by omnibus or on foot to (2V4 31.) Aubonne 
(*Couronne), a very old and picturesque little town, with numerous gardens, 
a beautiful avenue, and pleasant public grounds, and thence on foot to the 
top in less than an hour. — About 5 M. to the W. of Aubonne, and 
5V2 M. to the N. of Rolle, is Gimel (2395'; Union, pens, from 5 fr.), with 
beautiful wood-walks, a favourite summer resort of the Genevese. 

A road (diligence to St. Georges daily) leads from Kolle to the N.W. 
by Gilly, Burtigntj, and Longirod to (9 M.) St. Georges (3067' ; Inn) and over 
the (4 M.) Col de Marchairuz (47G7' ; Inn) to (41/2 31.) Le Brassus (p. 205). 
On the way from St. Georges to the col, we enjoy charming and varying 
views of the Lake of Geneva and the Rhone Valley down to the Fort de 
TEcluse, and between the col and Le Brassus we overlook the Lac de Joux 
and the Dent de Vaulion. 

The bank of the lake between Rolle and Lausanne is somewhat 
flat. On a promontory lies the village of St. Prex ; then, in a wide 
bay. Merges (*H6t. du Port; *H6t. du Moniblanc ; Couronne), a 
a busy little town (pop. 4052), with a harbour and an old chateau 
now used as an arsenal. The medi£Eval chateau of Vufflens, on a 
height at some distance to the N., is said to have been erected 
by Queen Bertha (p. 203). From Morges we obtain a fine view of 
Mont Blanc in clear weather through a valley on the S. bank. The 
steamer next reaches the station of St. Sulpice, and then — 

Ouchy (1230'), formerly called Rive, the port of Lausanne. 

*IloTEr, BE.iunivAGE, with pleasant garden, baths, etc., R.., L., ife A. 5-7, 
I), o, omnibus to the Lausanne station I'/^fr. ; '-llor. dWkgi.rteuue, R., 
L., & A. 31/2, B. li/i, D. 4 fr. ; *Il(Vr. du Pout, small; all on the lake. 
Pens. r>u Chalet, Avenue Iloseneck. — Lal-c Baths, two cst.ablishuicnts, 
one i/jM. to the W.. the other Vi M- <" "le K. of the landing-place; bath 
80 c, including towels, etc. — Boat GO c. per hour, or with boatman I'/af'". 

The Railway Station of the Western line (p. 228) is 3/i M. from 
Ouchy, and Lausanne lies fully '/4 M. higher. Cable Railway (commonly 



220 Route 65. LAUSANNE. From Geneva 

called Ficelle) from Ouchy to Lausanne in 9 min. (Station at Ouchy ncir 
the steamboat quay ; station at Lausanne, called 'Gare du Flon', under the 
Grand-I'ont •, 42 trains daily; fare 50 or 25 c., return-ticket 80 or 40 c; 
intermediate stations Jordils and St. Luce, the latter near the station of 
the W. railway; see p. 219; to the left the trains to Lausanne 10 c, to 
the right to Ouchy, 20 c). — Porterage of small articles to or from the 
steamer 10c. , trunk 20c., if over lOOlbs. 30c. 

Lausanne. — 'IIotel Gibbon (PI. a ; F, 4), opposite the post-office, R., 
L., & A. 4-fi, B. I'/'j. lunch S'/a, !>• 5 fr. ; in the garden behind the dining- 
room the historian Gibbon wrote the concluding portion of his great work 
in 1787. *H6t. Riche-Mont (PI. b ; I), E, 5), with pleasant grounds, D. 4'/2 fr. ; 
*Faucon (PI. c ; F, 3), R., L., & A. 4, B. IV2, D- 4, pens, from 6 fr. ; "Hot. vv 
Grand Pont (PI. d;E,4), near the bridge, R.,L.,&A. 32/4, B. I1/4, D. 3V'jfr. ; 
*H6t.-Pens. Beau-Site (PI. e; D, 4), R., L., & A. 31/2, D. 3, B. IV4 fr.; 'Hot.- 
Pens. Victoeia , Avenue de Rumine; '-Hot. dd Noiid (PI. f; F, 3, 4), 
Rue St. Pierre, with restaurant, R., L., & A. 3, B. I'/i, D. 3 fr.; Hotel 
Bellevue; Hot. des Messageries, Place St. Francois 4 ; Hot. de la Poste, 
Petit Chene 4. — Pensions: Beavs^Jour, Mme. liitschard CVill&sMeTcieTS), 
Mme. Me7-canton, Rue du Midi 4 (monthly 100 fr.), Chatelanat, Monnard, 
Pavarin, Pigiiel-Bauty, Campari, and many others. — Restaurants : II6lel 
du Nord, Hotel du Grand Pont, see above; Restaur, du Thiatre (see below); 
Deriaz, Place St. Laurent ; Rail. Restaurant, D. 2V2 fr. ; Cafe Vaudois, Place 
Riponne 3; Gamhrinus (beer), Rue Haldimand, near the Place de la Kiponne; 
Bavaria, Rue St Pierre. — Theatre (PI. f; open in winter only), Avenue 
du Theatre (with cafe). 

Omnibus from the station into the town 1 fr. ; to the steamboat at 
Ouchy, only if ordered (railway, see above). — Cab to the station 2fr. — 
Railway from Lausanne to the station and Ouchy, see above. — Bookseller, 
with lending library, etc., Benda, Rue Centrale 3. Th. Roussy, Rue de 
Bourg. — Pianos, music: E. R. Spies, Gr. Chene 5. 

English Ciiukcii, Avenue de Grancy. Scottish Free Church, Rue Ru- 
mine. Wesleyan Clinrch. Rue du Valentin, Place de la Riponne. 

Lausanne (1690'; pop. 33,316), the Lausonium of the Romans, 
now the capital of the Canton de Vaud, occupies a beautiful and 
commanding situation on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, over- 
shadowed by its cathedral on one side, and its castle on the other. 
The interior of the town is less prepossessing. The streets are hilly 
and irregular, and the houses in the older part are poor ; but the 
new quarters contain a number of handsome houses. The two 
quarters are connected by the handsome Grand-Pont (135 yds. long), 
erected in 1839-44, also named Pont Pichard after its builder. The 
valley of the Flon, spanned by the bridge, has been largely filled 
up and cultivated. The nearly level street, passing the castle and 
cathedral, constructed by Pichard, skirts the town and leads under 
the castle to the N. by a tunnel, 50 paces long. Lausanne possesses 
many excellent schools. 

The ^Cathedral (PI. E, 2 ; Prot.), erected in 1235-75, and con- 
secrated by Gregory X. in presence of Rudolph ofHapsburg, is a 
simple but massive Gothic edifice. In 1875-87 it was judiciously 
restored from plans by VioUei-le-Duc (d. 1879). The terrace on 
which it stands is approached from the market-place (Place de la 
Palud) by a flight of 160 steps. The sacristan (marguillier) lives to 
the left (N.) of the principal entrance, Rue Cite-Devant 5. 

The Interior (352' long, 1,50' wide) is remarkable for its symmetry 
of proportion. The vaulting of the nave, 66' in height, is supported by 








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to Martigny. LAUSANNE. 65. Route. 221 

20 clustered columns of different designs. Above the graceful triforium 
runs another arcade, which serves as a framework for the windows. The 
choir contains a semicircular colonnade. In the arcades of the choir-ambula- 
tory appears an ancient form of pilaster, a relic of the Burgundian- 
Romanesque style. The beautiful but sadly damaged rose-window and the 
sculptured poi-tals also merit inspection. (The W. portal is in a ruinous 
condition; the S. portal was restored in 1884.) Above the centre of the 
church rises a slender tower (245'), erected in 1874. The finest Monuments 
are those of Otto of Grandson who fell in 1398 in a judicial duel with 
Gerard von Estavayer (hands on the cushion, a symbol of the ban; 
statue accidentally deprived of its hands) ; Bishop Guillaume de Men- 
thonex (d. 1406) ; the Russian Princess Orloff (d. 1782) ; the Duchess Caro- 
line of Courland (d. 1783) ; Henrietta Stratford-Canning (d. 1818), first wife 
of Lord Stratford de Redclift'e, then ambassador in Switzerland (by Barto- 
lini) ; Countess Wallmoden Gimborn (d. 1783), mother of the Baroness of 
Stein, the wife of the celebrated Prussian minister. A tablet on the wall 
of the N. transept near these monuments bears the inscription : M la me- 
moire du major Davel, mort sur Vechafaiid en 1723, le 24 avril, martyr des 
droits et de la liberty du peuple vaudois^, a tribute paid to his memory by 
Gen. De la Harpe (p. 219), who effected that for attempting which Davel 
was beheaded as a traitor. — In 1536 a famous Disputation took place in 
this church, in which Calvin, Farel, and Viret participated, and which 
resulted in the removal of the episcopal see to Freiburg, the separation 
of Vaud from the Romish Church, and the overthrow of the supremacy of 
Savoy. 

The Terrace (1735'), fornierly the chiirchyard, commands the town, 
the lake, and the Alps of Savoy ; and the prospect is more extensive 
from the top of the tower, 162' high. The view from the terrace of 
the old episcopal Palace (^Eviche; now a law-court), higher up, is 
also very fine. 

The Canton.^l Museum (PI. E, 2; Wed. and Sat. 10-4, Sun. 
11-2 o'clock), in the College near the cathedral, contains natural 
history collections, a valuable collection of freshwater conchylia, 
presented by M. de Charpentier (d. 1855), relics from Aventicum 
(p. 203) and Vidy , the ancient Lausanne , and interesting Celtic 
antiquities from lake-dwellings, coins, medals, etc. The same build- 
ing contains the Cantonal Library (60,000 vols.). 

The MusEE Arlauu (PL D, 3; Sun., 11-2, Wed. and Sat. 10-4; 
at other times, 1 fr.), founded by an artist of that name in 1846, in 
a building in the Riponne opposite the corn-hall (Grenette), con- 
tains a small picture gallery. 

Among the most interesting paintings [are: Domenichino, Joseph's 
Dream; Caracci , Joseph cast into the pit. — Modern paintings: Anker, 
Xew-born child: Bocion, Tug-steamer; Bitrnand, Village on fire; Calame, 
Lake of Brienz ; Diday, Rusenlaui, Fall of the Reichenbach; Girardet, Re- 
turn from the mountain-pasture; Gleyre. Execution of Major Davel (see 
above), Battle on the Lake of Geneva, Adam and Eve, Divico's victory 
over the Romans, etc.; Jouvtnet, Healing of the leper; Koller, Cattle-pond; 
Miiyden, Hide-and-seek; Vaiitier, Sabbath morning; etc. 

On the MoNTEENON, a hill immediately to the W. of the town, 
planted with fine avenues, and affording a charming view of the 
lake, is situated the handsome new Palais de Justice Federal, or su- 
preme court of appeal for the whole of Switzerland. 

The admirably organised Blind Asylum (Asile des Aveugles), 
to the W. of the town (PI. A, 3), was founded by Mr. Haldimand 



222 Route G5. VEVF.Y. From Geneva 

(d. 1862), who amassed a fortune in England, and Miss Ce.rjat. — 
In the Champ de I'Air. to the N.E., the liighest point in the town, 
are the well-arranged LIoi-ital Cantonal (250 beds), a Slation Viti- 
cole (\ine-growing) and Meteoroloyique, and an Ecole iV Agriculture. 
— At Cerij, 2 M. to the N., on the line to Echallens (see below), 
is the handsome Lunatic Asylum, one of the largest and best on 
the continent, containing a chapel, concert-room, etc. 

The Signal (2126'), ','2 hr. above the town, is a famous point of view. 
From the post-office to the castle •/< ^^- '1 then cross the tunnel-bridge and 
follow the road to the left for about 100 paces ; ascend to the right by a 
paved path, and thence by a flight of steps on the left to the carriage-road ; 
follow this to the right till the hut with the trigonometrical pyramid and 
grounds are seen on the right. (This point may also be reached by a broad 
path diverging from the road to the right.) The view embraces a great part 
of the lake. Slont Blanc is not visible from this point, but is seen from 
the Grandes Roches (1/2 hr. from the town, to the right of the Yverdon road), 
another charming point of view. — The best way back from the Signal is 
through the wooded valley of the Flon, on the E. side of the hill, and 
then by the Eue des Eau.x to the point whence we started at the N. base 
of the castle. This route is preferable for the ascent also in hot weather. 
Cab from the town to the Signal, and thence to the station, 5 fr. 

From Lausanne to Echallens, 8^/4 JI., a local narrow-gauge railway 
(55 min.). The lunatic asylum mentioned above is near (2 M.) Jouxiens- 
Ceru, the second station. 8^4 M. Echallens (2004' ; 1079 inhab. ; 'Balances) 
is a thriving little town, with an old castle now used as a boys' school. 

The slopes rising to the E. of Lausanne are named La Vaux, and 
yield good wine. The vineyards are tended with the utmost care. 
Above the station of Fully on the hillside , is the lofty viaduct 
crossing the Paudtze (p. 202), below which is the bridge of the 
S.W. Railway (p. 228); above Lutry is the viaduct near La Conver- 
sion, mentioned at p. 202. The amphitheatre of mountains becomes 
grander as the steamboat advances : the Rochers de Verraux, Dent 
de Jaman, Rochers de Naye, Tour d'Ai', Tour de Mayen, Dent de 
Morcles, and Dent duMidi; between these, to the S., Mont Ca- 
togne, and in the background the snowy pyramid of Mt. Velan. 
Stations : CulUj and Rivaz-St. Saphorin, 

Vevey, Ger. Vivis, the Vibiscus of the Romans. 

Steamboat Piers: (1) Corsier, to the W., near the Grand Hotel de 
Vevey; (2) Vevey-MarcM, at the town itself; (3) 7evey-La Tour, to theE., 
near the Grand Hotel du Lac. 

Railway Station on the N. side of the town, on the left bank of the 
Veveyse. For excursions to theE. (Montreux, etc.) the station of ia Tour 
de Peilz (p. 224) is more convenient. 

Hotels. *Gkand Hot. de Vevet, at Corsier, to the W. of the town, with 
lift, large grounds, swimming and other baths; *H6tel Monnet (des Trots 
Couronnes) ; 'Gkand Hot. on Lac, to the E. of Monnet's; these three hotels, 
all on the lake, are large and comfortable: K., L., & A. from 5, D. 5 fr. ; 
pension from 15th Oct. to 1st May. To the E. of the town, *H6t. Moosek 
(p. 224). — -Bot.-Pens. d'Angleterke (R., L., & A. 3'/2, D. 3, pens. 51/2- 
7 fr.) and *H6t. du LiSman, also on the lake ; "Trois Rois, moderate, not 
far from the station, R. & A. 2'/2, B. i, D. 3 fr. ; "Hotel du Pont, at the 
station, with garden ; 'Hotel de la Poste, Rue du Casino, for single 
gentlemen. — Pensions, see p. 224. 

Cafes. Ca/i du Lac, Bellevue, des Alpes; all on the quay; Ca/i du 
Thidlre; Brasserie Traffle. — Coindet, dealer in preserved meats, etc.. Rue 
des Deux Marches. 



to Marligny. VEVEY. «5. noute. 223 

Lake Baths at the E. end of the town (6-Sa.m. and 2-5 p.m. for ladies only). 

Post and Telegraph Office, Place de TAncien Port. — Bankers : Geo, 
Glas, Kue du Le'man ; A. Vuinod C/airc/iill, Place dii Marche 21. 

Omnibus from the station to the hotels 20, box 10 c. ; to La Tour de 
I'eilz 30, box 15 c. ; to Chexbres from the post-office 1 fr. (see p. 202). — 
Cab with one horse, per drive in the town V/2, with two horses 2fr. ; 
',■_■ hr. I'/j or 2 fr., 1 hr. 3 or 4 fr., for every '•» hr. more 1 or I'/s fr. — 

Electric Tramway from the Grand Hotel de Vevey to C'hillon every 
40 min. from 6.30 a.m., in 59 min. (fare 20-50 c). Stations: Vevey-Gare^ 
Hotel du Lac, Villa Thamine, Maladeyre, Clareus, Verneij, Kuvsaal, Terrilel, 
and Chillon. 

Kowing-boats at the quay and the Grande Place, 1 fr. per hr.; with 
one rower 2, with two rowers 3fr. ; to Chillon 6 or 10 fr.; to St. Gingolph 
(p. 240) same charges; to Jleillerie (p. 240) 12 or 15 fr. 

Bookseller. Beiida, Hotel Monnet (also music, etc.). Pianos at Hatzen- 
herger^s (also at Montreux and Bex). — Theatre, Rue des Anciens Fosse's. 

English Church at the E. end of the town. 

Vevey (1263'), charmingly situated at the influx of the Veveyse, 
with 7939 inhab., is the second town in the Canton deVaud, and owes 
much of its repute to the writings of Rousseau. The small terrace by 
the market (Grande Place), the quay, and the new turreted Chateau 
ofM. Couvreu (beautiful garden with exotic plants, fee 1 fr.) overlook 
a great part of the scene of the ^Nouvelle Helo'ise', the 'burning 
pages' of which accurately describe it. To the E. La Tour de Peilz, 
Clarens, Montreux, and Chillon are visible ; next. Villeneuve and 
the mouth of the Rhone; in the background the Alps of the Valais, 
the jagged, snow-covered Dent du Midi , Mont Velan, arid Mont 
Catogne (the 'Sugar-loaf); on the S. bank of the lake, the rocks of 
Meillerie, overshadowed by the Dent d'Oche ; and to the left, at the 
foot of the Grammont, St. Gingolph (p. 240). Tlie Quai Sina affords 
a beautiful walk, sheltered from the N. wind. Near the station is 
the *Russian Chapel with its gilded dome, nearly opposite which is 
the EcoledesJeunes FiUes. At the E. end of the town are the pretty 
Roman Catholic Church and the English Church. 

The Church of St. Martin, erected in 1498, on a vine-clad 
hill (^Terrasse du Panorama') outside the town, surrounded by lime 
and chestnut-trees, commands a charming view (see the 'Indicaleur 
des Montagues'^. Service in summer only. 

In this church repose the remains of the regicides Ludlow Cpoieslalis 
arbitrariae oppugnator acerri7nus\ as the marble tablet records) and Brough- 
ton. The latter read the sentence to King Charles {^digiiatiis fuit senleii- 
liam regis regum profari, quam ob causam expulsus patria siia^ is the in- 
scription on his monument). On the restoration of Charles II., that monarch 
demanded the extradition of the refugees, a request with which the Swiss 
government firmly refused to comply. Ludlow's House, which stood at the 
E. end of the town, has been removed to make way for an addition to the 
Hotel du Lac. The original inscription chosen by himself, '■Omne solum forli 
patria\ was purchased and removed by one of his descendants. A new 
memorial tablet was erected in 1887 at the E. end of the quay. 

The tower among the trees on the lake farther on, the Tour de 
Peilz (Turris Peliana), said to have been built by Peter of Savoy in 
the 13th cent., was once the seat of a court of justice, and was 
afterwards used as a prison. The neighbouring chateau of M. Rignud 
contains a collection of ancient weapons. 



224 Route 65. CLARENS. From Geneva 

The chateau of Hauteville, 2 M. to the N.E. of Vevey, with an 
admirably kept park, commands a beautiful view from the terrace and 
the temple. In the same direction, 2 M. higher, is the mediaeval chateau 
of Blonay, which has belonged the family of that name for centuries. The 
road from Hauteville to Blonay passes through the villages of St. Mgier 
(Pens. BL'guin ; Pens, des Alpcs) and La C/iiesaz, many houses in which 
are adorned with clever sketches by A. Be'guin, a native of the place, now 
an artist in Paris. In returning , we may descend by a path to the right 
beyond the bridge to the carriage-road below, which leads to (1 BI.) ChaiUy 
(see below), (1 M.) the bridge of Tavel, below the C/idleau des Creles (see 
below), and (V4 M.) the Clarens station. — About 1 hr. to the N.E. of 
Blonay are the Pleiades (4488'), a famous point of view (auberge near the 
top), at the E. base of which, s/i hr. from the top, are the small sulphur- 
baths of VAlliaz (3428'; pens. 4-5 fr.). 

From Vevey to Freiburg, see R. 61 ; over the Jaman to Montbovon, 
p. 236. — Pleasant excursion to St. Gingolph (p. 240; I'/a hr. by boat), on 
foot to Novel., in the valley of the Jlorge, and thence to the top of the 
Dlanchard (p. 240). Inns at St. Gingolph and Novel very poor; the trav- 
eller should bring provisions from Vevey. 

On the lake, 31/2 M. from Vevey, lies the beautiful village of 
Clarens [English Church Service in winter), immortaIi.sed by 
Rousseau. On a height to the W. rises the ^Chateau des Cretes, 
a favourite summer resort of Gambetta, with its pleasant grounds, 
and a beautiful view from the terrace (visitors admitted). Ad- 
joining it is a chestnut copse , called the 'Bosquet de Julie'. 
Rousseau's 'Bosquet', however, has long since disappeared, having 
been, according to Lord Byron, uprooted by the monks of St. Bernard 
to make way for their vineyards. Splendid view from above Clarens, 
near the churchyard , and also from the terrace of the chateau of 
Chdtelard (at Tavel, 1/4 hr. to the N.), which gives its name to the 
W. part of Montreux (p. 225). Between Clarens and Vernex is the 
new German Protestant Church, with its slender tower. Near the 
station is the imposing Ecole Primaire. 

Pensions (p. xviii) abound on this favourite S.E. bay of the Lake of 
Geneva. The best-known are here mentioned in their order from Vevey. 
Charges often raised in the busy season. 

At Vevey: H6t.-Pens. du C/idieau (6-8 fr.), to the E. of the Hotel Mon- 
net, with a large shady garden and a view of the lake; Pens, du Lac; du 
Panorama, at the back of the town (41/2 fr.), recommended to ladies; ' JIdtel 
et Pens. Moosev , at Chemenin, 10 min. above Vevey, charming view (6- 
10 fr.). At St. Legier: Pens. Biguin ; "Des Alpes. — At La Tour de Peilz, 
near Vevey: "Pens. Comte; des Alpes; Riant-Site; Mon Disir. 

Near Clarens, 'au Basset' : "Pens. Ketterer, sheltered, G-8 fr. This is 
the beginning of the region which, being sheltered from the 'Bise' or bitter 
N. wind, is often recommended to persons with delicate lungs as a winter 
residence. The gay cluster of 22 villas near Clarens was built and fitted 
up by M. Dubochct of Paris (d. 1877), at a cost of 2V2 million francs. 
They now belong to Mde. Arnaud, and are let furnished for 3 months or 
upwards at rents varying from 4000 to 8,000 fr. per annum (apply to the 
'regisseur', at Villa No. 6). — At Clarens: on the left, Beausite; on the 
right, "Pens. Verle-Rive (5-7 fr.); on the left. Pens. Moser (5 fr.) ; on the 
right, "Hotel Roth, with a garden on the lake. At the station: "Hot.-Pens. 
des Cretes (5-6 ir.);" Hot.- Pens, du Chdtelard or Marmier (6 fr. ; good cuisine). 
— At Chaii.lt (1.580'), 1 M. above the Clarens station, and about 300' above 
the lake, "Pens. Miiry, with pleasant garden. At Brent, I'/s M. above ChaiUy, 
Pens. Du/ow (small and quiet). At Charnex, I1/2 M. above Clarens, Pens. 
Dii/oiir-Cochard (5 fr.; well spoken of). — Between Clarens and Vernex (all 
on the lake>: ''Hotel Roy, with pleasant garden; "Pens. Germann; Clarentzia ; 



to Marligny. MONTKEUX. 65. Route. 225 

I'dis. ii«cAeij«« (5-8 fr.), opposite the new Gotliic Knglish Chiircli; 'Loriiis 
(three houses; 6 fr. and upwards), with line (garden. 

At Montreux-Vernex : On the left, "Cpgne, R. & A. S'/z, B. IVz, !'• 4, 
pens. 6-8 fr.; 'Pens. Pilivet; on the right, *i/on?;e.v (5V2-8V2fr.); 'Seati-Sejour 
au Lac (adjoining which is a batli-house) ; Bon-Accueil; all on the lake; 
-Ilot.-Pens. Suisse (5'/2 fr.), on the opposite side of the road, with a garden 
on the lake; Beaulieu. At the station, IlCi.-Pens. Bellevue (5Vi-8 fr.) ; Hdlel 
Victoria; H6tel de la Gare; H6tel de la Paste; Pens. Buret. By the steam- 
boat-pier, Hdt. -Restaurant Toiihalle, for single gentlemen, moderate. The 
charge for the Kursaal, which usually appears in hotel-bills at Montreux. 
need be paid by those only who visit the establishment. — Preserved 
meats, etc., sold by Miautis. Beer at the Tonhalle and at MargueCs ; 
Pschorrbrciti, near the Kursaal. — Bazaar Wanner., with a good and varied 
stock. — Strangers' Enquiry Office at the College (ground-IIoor, to the right). 
— Schmidt^ chemist. — Booksellers: Benda; Meyer, at Clarens. Reading- 
rooms at Benda^s and Gottslebens. 

In BoxpOKT, on the Territet road (where the Kursaal is on the right, 
see below; adm. 1 fr. ; weekly subscription 3, monthly 10, quarterly 20fr.), 
on the lake, farther to the S.E. : on the left, 'Hdt. de Paris; on the right, 
'Hol.-Pens. des Palmiers; on the left, ''Hdtel National, with a terrace high 
above the lake, and a new 'dependance'' on the right side of the road, 
7-lOfr. On the right, '■ Hdt.-Pens. Beati-Rivage (Spickiier), 'Hot.-Pens. Breuer, 
both with gardens on the lake ; "Pens. Bonport. The four last, ■/-' M. from the 
station, command a fine view. — In the Village of Moktreux, '/a M. from 
the lake and the station: -Pens. Visinand, the oldest in Montreux; "Pens. 
Brum- Afonnet (^ioTmerlj Pens. Mooser; 5-6 fr.), Biensis, a,ni 'Vautier (7-8 fr.), 
all with a fine view. 

At Territet (to the E. of stat. Territet-Glion) ; "Hdtel des Alpes el 
Grand Hotel (pens. 7-12 fr.), an extensive establishment with handsome 
rooms, cold-water cure, and terraced grounds on the lake, with a fine view; 
dependance in the garden, with suites of apartments for families. "Hdtel 
Mont-Fleuri, finely situated, with grounds (pens. 6-8 fr.). — Hdtel du Lac, 
small; "Hdtel d^Angleterre ; Pens. Mounoud (5-6 fr.); "Pens. Bound. 

At Veytaux: "Hdtel Bonivard, R., L., & A. from 3fr. ; "Masson (5-7 fr.), 
adjoined by a villa with furnished rooms ; Villa Clos-de-Grandchamp ; Pens. 
Chillon, near the castle. — Between Chillon and Villeneuve, the hand- 
some "Hdtel Byron, (6-9 fr.), finely situated (omnibus from the Villeneuve 
station, p. 228). 

At Glion (2254'; cable tramway, see p. 226) : "Hdtel Mighi-Vatidois (pens. 
8-12 fr.); "Hdtel Victoria (8'/2-10 fr.), beautifully situated; "Hdtel du Midi, 
Hdtel de Glion and others, about 5 fr., generally closed in winter. 

Most of these pensions receive passing travellers at hotel-charges, but 
in autumn they are generally full. At many other houses rooms with or 
without board may also be obtained. The Gkape Cdke begins towards 
the end of September and lasts about a month. — Aigle (p. 229) and Bex 
(p. 230) are also pleasant resorts in early summer and in autumn. In 
the height of summer, when the heat on the lake and in the valley of 
the Rhone becomes overpowering, the pensions at Chateau d^Oex (p. 237), 
Ormont-Dessus (p. 233), Villars i\). 22Q), etc., are miich frequented. Similar 
pensions at Geneva, see p. 206. 

Clarens, Charnex , Vernex, Glion, Colony es , Veytaur, and tlio 
otlier villages which lie scattered about, partly on tlie lake and 
partly on the hill-side, are collectively called Montreux. This 
district is divided into three parts, Chdtelard, Les Planches, and 
Veyteaux, by the brook (Bale) of Montreux and the Veraye. The 
central point of the district is the village of Montreu.t-Veri^ex, on 
the lake, with a railway-station and steamboat-pier. About 1/4 M. 
from the S. end of it is the Kursaal, with pleasant grounds (adm. 
see above) ; opposite is the new Roman Catholic Church, in the 

Baedkkbk, Switzerland. i3th Edition. ly 



226 Route 65. CHILLON. From Geneva 

Romanesque style. About 1/2 M. higher up, at the foot of the moun- 
tain, lies the village of Montreux, divided into Sdles, to the W., 
and Les Planches, to the E., by the Baie de Montreux, which de- 
scends from the Gorge du Chaudron (see below) and is here span- 
ned by the haLndsome*Pont de Montreux, 100' in height. Immediately 
above Les Planches rises the quaint old Parish Church (recently re- 
stored), the shady terrace in front of which commands a superb and 
far-famed *View of the lake (mountain indicator). 

ExcDRSioNS FROM JIoNTREDX (electric tramway from Chillon to Vevcy, 
see p. 223). To Glion (22540, loftily situated at the back ot Montreux, with 
a beautiful view of the lake, a cable-tramway ascends in 7 min., starting 
from the Territet-Glion station on the Western Eailway (21 trains daily ; 
fare 1, return-ticket IV2 fr.). The line, constructed by Hr. Riggenbach 
on the same system as the Giessbach tramway , but much steeper, is 
about 750 yds. long, the maximum gradient being 1 : P't. At the top is 
the Buffet (view). Adjacent is the garden of the Hotel Righi-Vaudois (see 
p. 225), which commands a delightful survey of the upper end of the Lake 
of Geneva and the mountains enclosing it, with the snow-clad Dent du 
Midi in the centre. The garden of the Villa Nestle is worth seeing (visi- 
tors admitted). Pleasant way back through the Gorge du Chaudron (see 
below) to the village of Montreux in 1 hr. (enquire for beginning of path). 
From Glion the Mont Canx (3937') may be ascended in I'A hr. — To the 
■Gorge du Chaudron, a wooded ravine between Glion and Somier, watered 
by the Baie de Montreux (see above). From the bridge of Montreux to the 
gorge, and back, 1 hr., or returning by Glion 2 hours. The path enters 
the gorge from near the Tens. Vautier at Les Planches. — From Chillon by 
Champ Babau to (1 hr.) Veytaux (p. 225). — -Rochers de Naye (6706'j, 
the S. neighbour of the Jaman ; ascent 4-5, descent 3 hrs. ; view embracing 
the Bernese range, the Valais, and Savoy ; Mont Blanc only partially vis- 
ible (good panorama by Imfeld). Easiest ascent by Glion, Mont Caiix, and 
Chamosallaz (auberge in the lower and in the upper chalet) ; another tr;ick 
over the wooded ridge of Mont Sonchaud (guide desirable); a third from 
Les Avants (3V2 hrs., see below). — Les Avants (.3230'; -'Hotel des Avnnts, 
pens, in summer 6-12 fr., in winter 6-10 fr.), a charmingly situated health- 
resort for both summer and winter, lies 1'/^ hr's. drive from Montreux via 
Charnex and Chaulin (omnibus from April 15th to Oct. 15th, from Mon- 
treux railway station at 9 a.m., in I'A hr., returning at 4 p.m. in ■V4 hr. ; 
fares, up 3, down 2, return-ticket 4 fr. ; carriage with one horse 12, with 
two horses 18 fr.). Les Avants may be reached on foot from Montreux via 
Somier in IV2 hr., or from Glion via the Gorce du Chaudron in l^/i hr. 
From Les Avants to the top of Mont Cubli (3525'), with charming view, 
Ihr.; Bent de Jaman (616.5'), via the Col de Jaman (p. 236), 2V2hrs.; Ro- 
chers de Naye (see above), S'/z hrs. ; Col de Jaman (road under construction ; 
see p. 236), etc. — Bv Charnex and Chaulin to the Bains de VAlliaz and 
the PUiades (4488'), re"turning by Blonaij (p. 223), 8 hrs. — By Aigle to the 
Ormonis, see R. 66. — To Villars, see p. 229. — To the Pissevache and 
Gorges du Trient (p. 231) by railway, and back, in one day. 

Stat. Territet-Chillon (*H6t. des Alpes, etc. ; see p. 225"). The 
*Ca8tle of Chillon, with its massive walls and towers, ^/^ M. from 
the pier (3/4 M. from stat. Territet-Glion ; 1/4 M. from stat. Vey- 
taux-Chillon), stands on an isolated rock 22 yds. from the bank, 
with which It is connected by a bridge, but the strait is now dry. 
'Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place. 
And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod. 
Until his very steps have left a trace. 
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod. 
By Bonivard ! — may none those marks efface. 
For they appeal from tyranny to God.' 



to Martigny. VILLENEUVE. 65. Route. 227 

The author of these beautiful lines has invested this spot with 
much of the interest which attaches to it, but it is an error to identify 
Bonivard, the victim to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and confined by 
him in these gloomy dungeons for six years , with Byron's 'Prisoner of 
Chillon' (composed by him in the Anchor Inn at Ouchy in 1817). The author 
calls his poem a fable, and when he composed it he was not aware of the 
history of Bonivard , or he would, as he himself states, have attempted to 
dignify the subject by an endeavour to celebrate his courage and virtue. 
Francis Bonivard was born in 1496. He was the son of Louis Bonivard, Lord 
of Lune, and at the age of sixteen inherited from his uncle the rich priory 
of St. Victor , close to the walls of Geneva. The Duke of Savoy having at- 
tacked the republic of Geneva, Bonivard warmly espoused its cause, and 
thereby incurred the relentless hostility of the Duke , who caused him to 
be seized and imprisoned in the castle of Grolee, where he remained two 
years. On regaining his liberty he returned to his priory , but in 1528 he 
was again in arms against those who had seized his ecclesiastical revenues. 
The city of Geneva supplied'him with munitions of war, in return for which 
Bonivard parted with his birthright, the revenues of which were applied by 
the Genevese to the support of the city hospital. He was afterwards em- 
ployed in the service of the republic, but in 1530 when travelling between 
Moudon and Lausanne fell into the power of his old enemy, the Duke of 
Savoy, who confined him in the castle of Chillon. In 1536 he was liberated 
by the Bernese and Genevese forces under Nogelin, and returning to the 
republic, he spent the rest of his life as a highly respected citizen. He died 
in 1570 at the age of 74 years. 

Above the entrance (adm. 1 fr.) are the arms of the Canton de 
Vaud. The rooms with their old wooden ceilings, the dungeons with 
their pillars and arches, and the other reminiscences of the time of 
the dukes of Savoy are interesting. A fine effect is produced by 
the beams of the setting sun streaming through the narrow loopholes 
into these sombre precincts. Among the names on the pillars are 
those of Byron, Eugene Sue, George Sand, and Victor Hugo. 

It is an historical fact that in 830 Louis le Debonnaire imprisoned 
the Abbot Wala of Corvey, who had instigated his sons to rebellion, in 
a castle from which only the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman were visible 
(Periz, Monum. U. p. 556); this could have been no other than the 
t'astle of Chillon. Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle 
in the 13th cent., and it now stands much as he left it. The strong 
pillars in the vaults are in the early-Romanesque style, and belonged to the 
original edifice. The Counts of .Savoy frequently resided in the castle, 
and it was subsequently converted into a state-prison. Since 1798 it has 
been used as a military arsenal. 

Between Chillon and Villeneuve, on the slope of the hill, is 
the handsome Hotel Byron (p. 225). The lie de Paix, an islet 30 
paces long and 20 wide, 1/3 M. to the W. of Villeneuve, and 1/4 M. 
from the S. bank, commanding a line view, was laid out and planted 
with three elms by a lady a century ago, and recalls Byron's lines : — 
'And then there was a little isle. 
Which in my very face did smile, 
The only one in view.' 

In the E. bay of the lake, i'/i M. from Chillon, lies Villeneuve 
(*H6t. du Port; *H6t. de Ville), a small walled town, the Pennilucus, 
or Penneloci of the Romans. The 'Clos des Moines' is a good wine 
grown here. (Railway-station, see p. 228.) 

Footpath to Montbovon (p. 236) over the Col de la Tiniire i;5340') in 
4','2 hrs., to Chateau d'CEx (p. 237) in 6 hrs. 

15* 



228 Route 65. PAUDfeZE. From Geneva 

lUiLWAY Journey. Geneva, see p. 205. The train rims high 
above the lake, overlooking the hills on the E. bank witli their nu- 
merous villas, above which rises the long ridge of the Voirons and 
in clear weather Mont Blanc. 21/2 M. Chambefty ; i M. Genthod- 
BeUevue; bi/oM. Versoix (p. 217); 8V2 M. Coppet (p. 218). At 
(11 M.) Celiyny the Dole (p. 218) becomes visible to the left. Be- 
yond (147-2 M-) Nyon (p. 218) the line skirts Prangins -Kith its 
chateau, and then quits the bank of the lake. 

The tract of country between the Promenthouse, whicli the train 
crosses near (17'/2 M.) Gland, and the Aubonne (see below) is 
called La Cote and is noted for its wine. 20 M. Gilly-Burslnel; 
211/2 M. Rolle (p. 21i)). The height to the left is the Signal de 
Bougy {2910'; p. 219), a splendid point of view, easily reached 
from Kolle or from the next stat. (25 M.) Aubonne- Allaman. 

The train crosses the Aubonne and returns to the lake. 28 M. 
St. Prex; the village lies on a promontory below, on the right. 
From (30'/2 M.) Merges (p. 219; station 8 min. from pier) Mont 
Blanc is seen in all its majesty in clear weather, but soon disap- 
pears. In the distance tn theN.W., above the valley of the Morge», 
which the train crosses here, is the chateau of Vufflens (p. 219 ). 

The line again leaves the lake, crosses the Venoge, and joins 
the Neuchatel railway (p. 197). 35'/2 Renens. 

38 M. Lausanne (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 220. 

Tlie train (views on the right) skirts the lake the greater part of 
the way to Villeneuve. We cross the Paudeze by a handsome bridge 
(above which, to the left, is the lofty nine-arched viaduct of the 
Freiburg line, p. 201 ), pass through a short tunnel, and skirt tlic 
vine-clad slopes of La Vaux (p. 222). 42 M. Lutry. 

From (44 M.) Cully (p. 222) to (47 M.) Rivaz-St. Saphorin the 
train runs close to the lake, then quits it, and crosses the Veveyse. 
50 M. Vevey (p. 222); 5O1/2 M. La Tour de Peilz (p. 224) ; 52 M. 
Burier; then a tunnel, beyond which we obtain a fine viewofMont- 
treux. Chillon, and the E. bay of the lake. 53 M. Clarens (p. 224). 

54 M. Montreux - Vernex (p. 225), beyond which we again 
approach the lake. 55 M. Territet-Glion (Cafe-Restaut., and small 
bazaar), immediately above the steamboat -pier Territet- Chillon 
(p. 225), and the starting-point of the cable-tramway to Glion 
(p. 226). 55V2M. T'et/^aux-C/umn (p. 226) is 1/4 M. from the castle. 

57 M. Villeneuve, see p. 227. The train now enters the broad 
and somewliat marshy Rhone Valley, bounded by high mountains. 
The Rhone flows into the lake 3 M. to the W., near Bouveret. Its 
grey waters, the deposits of which have formed an extensive alluvial 
tract, present a marked contrast to the crystalline azure of the same 
river where it rushes through the bridges at Geneva. 

The first station in the Rhone Valley is (591/2 M.) Roche. 
Part of the mountain near Yvorne (1560'), to the left, was pre- 
cipitated on the village by an earthquake in 1584. Excellent wine is 



to Martigny. AIGLE. «5. Route. 229 

grown in the gorge ('Crosex-Grille" and 'Maison Blanche' or 'Clos 
(In Rocher"). To the right towers the jagged Dent du Midi (p. 242). 

63 M. Aigle. — 'Grand Hotel, on a liill l'/4 M. above Aigle, with 
extensive grounds, and suitable for a prolonged stay, R., L., & A. 31/2, 
B. l'/'2. !>• 4, pens. 6-10 fr. — -Pens. Bead-Site, at the station ; "Victokia, 
opposite the post-ulfice, with dependance and garden, moderate; Hot. du 
Midi and Hot. du Nokd, both unpretending. — English Church Service 
at the Grand Hotel. 

Aigle (1375'; pop. 3533), a small town with a large chateau, 
is prettily situated on the turbulent Grande-Eau. 

The Plantour (1604'; see below), a hill '/z hr. to the E., with a tower 
(60' high) of Roman origin and grounds , affords charming views of the 
Rhone Valley. 

ViLLAKS, 3V4 hrs. E. of Aigle, 2>/2 hrs. above Ollon (see below), a very 
favourite summer resort, lies on the hill-side, high above the right bank 
of the Khone. It is best reached from Aigle (carr. 15, with two horses 
30 fr. and fee; a drive of 3 hrs.; diligence daily in 3'/2-4 hrs.), as the 
hotel and other accommodation at Ollon is poor. High-road to (2 M.) Ollon 
(Hotel de Ville, poor) ; thence a good road in numerous windings, with fine 
views. Pedestrians follow the old road, which diverges to the left from the 
new immediately above Ollon. After 2 min., where the path divides, we 
follow that to the extreme right. At (40 min.) La Pousaz we take the path 
to the left, by the second fountain, in the middle of the village; 35 min. 
Huemoz (3307'; pron. Wenis by the natives) , charmingly situated ; V2 br. 
Chesiere (3970'; 'Hotel du Chamossaire, moderate), with beautiful view; 
1/2 hr. ViUars (4166'; 'mi. -Pens. Breuer, R. ii A. 2, B. IV4, D. S'/z, S. 
21/2 fr. ; a little farther on, -Grand Muveran, patronized by French vis- 
itors ; 'Bellevue , a little higher up ; pension in each 6-8 fr.). Magnifi- 
cent view of the Rhone valley, the Petit and Grand Moeveran, the Dent 
de Morcles, the N. spurs of the Mont Blanc group with the Glacier du 
Trient, the Dent du Midi, etc. Pleasant park-like environs, aflbrding a variety 
of walks. The finest excursion is the ascent (2V2-3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary) 
of the ' Chamossaire (6950'), which commands a most picturesque view 
of the Bernese Alps, the Weisshorn. the Diablerets, Grand Moeveran, Dent 
de Morcles, Mont Blanc, Dent du Midi, Valley of the Rhone, and Sepey. 
The route is by a cart-track nearly to Bretave (1 hr. from the top), a 
little below which we ascend by a path to the left to the stone signal on 
the summit. — From Bretaye a tolerable path leads past the small lakes 
des Chalets., Noir, and ~des Chavoiinea, to (2 hrs.) La Forclaz (4144'), and 
crossing the Grande Eau, to (','2 hr.), Le .Sep ey (p. 234). We may return to 
Villars the same day by carriage, via Aigle; or the next day on foot by 
Au Pont, Plambuit, and Chesiere (see above). — From Villars to Ormoiit- 
Desstts over the Col de la Croix (5687'), 4 hrs. ; guide (6 fr.) unnecessary, if 
the traveller is shown the beginning of the route (comp. p. 234). — From 
Villars by Arveye to Grijon (p. 238), 1 hr. 

From Aigle a road leads by Yvorne (p. 228) to (2 hrs. ; one-horse 
carr. 8, two-horse 15 fr.) Corbeyrier (3235'; H6l.-Pens. Duhuis, 5 fr.), a village 
in a sheltered situation, with fine views. The Signal (i/i hr.) overlooks the 
Rhone Valley from St. Maurice to the Lake of Geneva; more extensive 
view, particularly of the Tour Sallieres and Dent du Midi, from the plateau 
of the Agittes (4997'; bridle-path, IV2 hr.). The ascent of the Tour Je Maijen 
(7620'), from Corbevrier bv the Alp Luan and Ai in 3>/2-4 hrs., is attractive. 
The Tow d'Ai (78i8' ; 31/2" hrs.) is fit for experts only. 

From Aigle to the Ormonts (p. '231), a pleasant excursion (one-horse 
carr. to Sepey 10, to Ormont-Dessus 15 fr. and fee of 1 fr. ; diligence to 
Sepey daily in 2'/4 hrs., to Ormont-Dessus in 5'/2hrs.; comp. p. 234). -■Vt- 
Iractive route for walkers from Aigle via Lei/sin (4I50) to Sepey, 3\'-> hrs. 
(comp. p. 231; recommended for returning). 

Between Aigle and (65 M.) OUon-St. Triphon, on the left, rises 
the Plantour with its tower (see above). The village of St. Triphon 



230 Route 65. BEX. From Geneva 

lies on theS. slope of a hill, 1 M. from the railway; Ollon is on 
another hill, to the N.E. (Road to Villars 21/2 lu's., see p. 229.) 

68 M. Bex. — 'Gkand Hotel des Salines, vpith salt and other baths, 
and a well-equipped hydropathic establishment, in a fine sheltered situa- 
tion, 2 M. from the station, R., L., & A. 31/2-5, D. 4-5, pens. 6-12 fr. 
(in August the visitors are almost exclusively French); adjacent, 'Hot.- 
Pens. Villa des Bains; in the village, 'Union, moderate; 'Grand Hotel 
DES Bains; 'Hot.-Pens. des Alpes, pens. 4V2-5 fr. ; Pens, du Crochet; 
Hail. Restaurant. — English Church, opposite the Gr. Hot. des Bains. 

Bex (1427'; pop. 4348; pronounced Bay), charmingly situated, 
on the Avan(^on, and affording many beautiful walks, lies 3/4 M. 
from the station (omnibus 50 c. ). Bex is a favourite resort in spring ; 
and in autumn it is frequented by patients undergoing the 'grape-cure'. 

Fine view from Le Moniet, a hill to the N. ('/a hr.), from the Boet, and 
from the Tour de Duin, a ruin on a wooded hill (3/4 hr. to the S.E.). — The 
extensive salt-works of Divens and Bivietix, 3 M. to the N.E., reached by a 
dhady road of gradual ascent, may be visited in half a day (guide 5 fr.). 
Visitors usually drive to Devens , see the salt-works, and then visit the 
mines, where the salt is obtained from the saline argillaceous slate by a 
process of soaking. Salt is also obtained from the salt-springs by evapor- 
ation. In the wood at the back of the salt-works are two huge erratic blocks. 

A road leads to the E. of Bex, on the left l)ank of the Avancon, to 
(31/2 M.) FrenUres (2850'; Pens. Giroud) and (2 M.) Les Plans (SQl2';''Pem. 
de V Argentine, D. 21/2 fr.; Tens. Bernard, 'Pens. Marletaz, 5-7 fr., these two 
unpretending; guides Philippe Marletaz, Charles and Jul. Veillon, Ale.Tis 
Moreillon),. In the sequestered ValUe des Plans, a good starting-point for 
excursions. Thus, to the Pont de Nant (4110'; Restaurant), with view of 
the glaciers of the Dent de Morcles, 1/2 It. ; to the Croix de Javernaz 
(6910') 3 hrs.; to the Glacier de Plan-Nevi 3 hrs. ; ascent of the Argen- 
tine (7985') 4 hrs. ; "Dent de Morcles (9775'), with an imposing view of 
the Mont Blanc chain and the Alps of the Valais, 7 hrs. via Nant and 
the Glacier des Martinet (descent to Morcles, p. 231, 3V2 hrs.) ; Tete h Pierre- 
Orept (9545') 7 hrs.; Grand-Mmveran (10,043'), by the Frite de Sailles (8527'; 
a pass to the Rhone Valley between the Grand and the Petit Moeveran), 
7 hrs.; to Anzeindaz (p. 238) over the Col des Essets (6690') 4 hrs. 

From Bex to Grijon, and over the Pas de Clieville to Sion, see R. 68. 

To Chesieres and Villars (by Devens, 3 hrs.), see p. 229. 

The train crosses the Avancon and the Rhone, joins the line on 
the S. bank (p. 242), and passes through a curved tunnel. 

71 M. St. Maurice (1377'; pop. 1643; Hotel-Pens. Grisogono, 
in connection with the Rail. Restaurant; Ecu du Valais ; *Hdt. d',s 
Alpes, moderate; *T)ent du Midi, plain), a picturesque old town 
with narrow streets, on a delta between the river and the cliffs, the 
Roman Ayaunum, is said to derive its name from St. Maurice, the 
commander of the Theban legion, who is said to have suffered 
martyrdom here with his companions in 302 (near the Chapelle de 
Ve'roilley, p. 231). The abbey, probably the most ancient on this 
side of the Alps, supposed to have been founded at the end of 
the 4th cent, by St. Theodore, is now occupied by Augustinian 
monks, and contains some interesting old works of art (shown by 
special permission only) : a vase of Saracenic workmanship, a cro- 
zier in gold, a chalice of agate, Queen Bertha's chalice, and a rich 
MS. of the Gospels, said to have been presented to the abbey by 
Charlemagne. On the walls of the churchyard and on the tower of 



to Martigny. VERNAYAZ. 65. Route. 231 

the venerable abbey-church are Roman inscriptions. — To the W. of 
the station , halfway up an apparently inaccessible precipice , Is 
perched the hermitage of iVofre- Dame- dM-<Sex (sax, i.e. rock), to 
which a narrow path has been hewn in the rock. Farther to the N., 
above the mouth of the tunnel , halfway up the hill , is the Grotte 
aux Fees, an interesting stalactite cavern with a lake and a waterfall 
(1/4 hr. from the station ; tickets and guides at the old chateau). 

Travellers descending the valley change carriages at St. Maurice for 
Bouveret , where steamers (far preferable in fine weather) correspond 
with the trains. Comp. pp. 216, 239. 

The Baths of Lavey (.1377'; -Hdiel, D. S'/z, S. 2^4, omnibus 3/, fr.), 
l'/2 M. above St. Maurice, are much frequented. The warm spring (100" 
Fahr.), first discovered in 1831, impregnated with sulphur and common salt, 
rises in a wooden pump-room , 5 min. from the hotel. — A narrow road 
(one-horse carr. If fr.) ascends through wood in zigzags, to the E. of 
the baths, to (2'/2 hrs.) Morcles (3822'; Pens. Cheseaux; guides Cli. Guillat 
and Jul. C/ieseaux), prettily situated at the foot of the Dent de Morcles. 
Above it (1/4 hr.) is DaiUy (4149'; "Pens. Perrochon, 5 fr.), with a 
charming view. Ascent of the Croix de Javernaz (6910'; fine view from the 
top) from Morcles via Planhaut in 2^4 hrs. (descent to Les Plans, p. 230); 
of the Dent de Morcles (977.')'), 0V2 hrs. (see p. 230) ; bed of hay if required 
on the Haul de Morcles (5740'), l'/2 hr. from Morcles. 

Beyond St. Maurice, on the right, is the Chapelle de VeroUley, 
with rude frescoes. Opposite, on the right bank, are the Baths of 
Lavey (see above). The line approaches the Rhone , and passes 
the spot where huge mud-streams from the Dent du Midi inund- 
ated the valley in 1835, covering it with rocks and debris. 

75 M. Evionnaz occupies the site of Epaunum, a town which 
was destroyed by a similar mud-stream in 563. Before us rises the 
broad snow-clad Mont Velan (p. 287). Near the hamlet of -La Balmaz 
railway and road skirt a projecting rock close to the Rhone. On the 
right is the *Pissevache, a beautiful cascade of the Salanfe (p. 242), 
which here falls into the Rhone Valley from a height of 230' {^j^ M. 
from Vernayaz ; best light in the forenoon). A path ascends on the 
right side, and passes behind the waterfall (1 fr.). 

77 M. Vernayaz (1535' ; *Gr.-H6t. des Gorges du Trient, i/o M. 
from the station , finely situated at the entrance of the Gorge, 
high charges, R., L., & A. 5, P. 5fr. In the village; *H6t. des Alpes, 
R. 21/2 fr-; *Ii6t. Suisse; Hot. de Chamonix ; Hot. de la Poste), 
the starting-point of the route to Chamonix via Salvan (p. 267) and 
of the 'Nouveau Chemin' to the Tete Noire (p. 268; guide to the 
Tete Noire or Chatelard 6, Chamonix 12, Cascade du Dalley 4 fr.). 

On the right , beyond Vernayaz , we observe the bare rocks at 
the mouth of the *Gorges du Trient, which may be ascended for 
V2 M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the 
foaming stream. Tickets (1 fr.) at the Gr.-Hot. des Gorges du 
Trient. 

The view at the entrance to the gorge is imposing. The rocks, here about 
420' high , approach each other so closely at every turn , that the gorge 
almost resembles a huge vaulted cavern. Where the path crosses the 
Trient for the second time, the stream is said to be 40' deep; at the end 
of the gallery it forms a waterfall, 30' high. The gorge (inaccessible farther 



232 Route G5. MARTTGNY. 

np) is "'/•jJ*I- long, extending to the Hotel de la Tete Noire (p. 2CC), from 
which its entrance is visible. — The Pissevaclie and the Gorges du Trioiit 
may be visited from Vernayaz in the interval between two trains. 

Near Martigiiy, at the right angle wliich the Illioiie valley liorc 
Ibrins , on a hill to the right, stands La Batiaz (1985'), a castle of 
the bishops of Sion, erected in 1260, and dismantled in 1518. The 
steep ascent to it from the Drance bridge takes '/4 hr. (adm. 30 c). 
The hill on which the castle stands affords a view of the broad lower 
Rhone Valley as far as Sion, and some of the Bernese Alps, above 
which the Sanetsch and part of the Gemmi are prominent; on the 
S. side of the valley rises the Pierre-h,-Voir, resembling a tower; 
below us lie Martigny and Martigny-Bourg ; through the valley to 
the S.W. runs the road to the Col de Forclaz, above which rise the 
Aiguilles Rouges ; to the N. the Drance, and beyond it the Trient 
join the Rhone. — The train crosses the Drance (p. 285). 

81 M. Martigny. — 'Hotel Clekc, K., L., & A. 4V2, D. 5fr.; 
'Hotel du SIontblanc, R., L., <fc A. 3'/-.!-4V2, D. 4 fr.; Aigle, good second- 
class house, R. IV2-2 fr. ; Grand St. Beunaud , well spoken of; Hotel- 
Restaurant DE LA Gare, the two last at the station, '/^ M. from the town. 

Martigny- Ville (^1560'; pop. 1545), the Roman Octodurus, is a 
busy little town in summer, being the starting-point of the routes 
over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta (R. 78), over the Tete-Noire and 
Col de Balme (RR. 73, 74) to Chamonix, and for the Val de Bagues 
(R. 79). In the market-place, which is planted with trees, is a 
bronze bust of Liberty by Courbet. A large Roman building has re- 
cently been excavated at Martigny. — Above Martigny, on the road 
to the Great St. Bernard, lies (1 M.) Martigny-Bourg (Trois Couron- 
nes, good 'Coquempey' wine), the vineyards of which yield excellent 
wine (^Coquempey and Lamarque, both known to the Romans). 

Excursions. Near Branson, on the right bank of the Rhone, 3 M. to 
the N.E. of Martigny, is the rocky hill of Xes FoUaterres, famed for its flora. 

Ascent of the Arpille (6830'; 4-5 hrs. , with guide). The bridle-path 
ascends beyond La Datiaz (sec above) through vineyards to the hamlet of 
Sommei des Vignes; then past the hamlets of Ravoire, through wood, and 
steeply to the chalets of Arpille (5964') and the summit. Superb view. 
Descent to the S., through wood, in 1 hr. to the Col de la Forclaz (p. 26S). 

The 'Pierre-a.- Voir (8123'), a limestone peak of the mountain-range which 
separates the Rhone Valley from the Val de Drance, is ascended from Mar- 
tigny, the Baths of Saxon (p. 294), Sembrancher (p. 286), or Chable (p. 291). 
From Martigny a bridle-path, 6 hrs. (guide 8, mule 10 fr.). From the Col, 
1/4 hr. below the summit, the descent to Saxon may be made rapidly, but 
not very pleasantly on a sledge in I-IV2 hr., or on foot in 3 hours. Beauti- 
ful view of the Valaisian Alps (from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn), the Ber- 
nese Alps (from the Dent de Morcles to the Jungfrau), of the Rhone, Entre- 
mont, and Bagne valleys, and the glacier of Gietroz (p. 291). 

'Gorges du Diirnant (3-4 hrs. from Martigny, there and back), see p. 285. 



66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon. 

33 M. Carriage-road. From Saanen to Gsteig (8 M.) diligence daily 
in l'/2hr. ; from Ormont-Dessus to (14 M.) Aigle in 4'/2 hrs. (from Aigle to 
Ormont 5'/'.' hrs.). One-horse carr. from Saanen to Gsteig 8 fr., to Orniont- 
De.ssus 25, to Aigle 40 fr. (carr. and pair 65 fr.), and fee. 




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GSTEIG. cr,. Route. 233 

Saanen (3382'), p. 188. The road leads to the S. througli the 
broad and smiling Saane-Thal, called in its upper part the Gsteig- 
Tbal, to Ebnit and to (1^4 M.J Gstad ['Mb^)'; Bar], at the mouth of 
the Lauencnthal. 

A road ascends on the riglit Viaiik of the Lnuibac/i, crossing the Tw- 
liach after '/2 M., to (4 M.) Lauenen (4130'; Zi'rtr, rustic), tlie chief place 
in the valley, beaulifviUy situated. The i)icluresque Lattenen-See (4557'). 
1 hr. higher up, is best surveyed from the 5«7i?, a hill on the E. side. 
To the S. the brooks descending from the Gelien and Dungel glaciers form 
fine waterfalls on both sides of the Hahnenschritlhorn (9304'). — From Laue- 
nen to Lenk over the TrUttlisberg, and to Gsteig by the Krinnen, see p. 185. 
Over the Gelten Pass (Col du Brozet , 9270') to Sion, to ZanJJeuron (see 
below) 8 hrs., with guide, toilsome. — The Wildhorn Club-hut (p. 184) is 
reached in 5 hrs. from Lauenen. 

Gsteig, Fr. Chatelet (3987'; Ours, pens. 5-6 fr.), 61/4 M. from 
Gstad, is finely situated. To the S. rise the Sanetschhorn (9666') 
and the Oldenhorn (10,250'). 

To SioN OVER THE Sanetsch, 8'/2 lirs., attractive on the whole (ex- 
perts may dispense with a guide in fine weather). The path crosses the 
Sarine, and ascends steeply through pastures, and afterwards in windings 
partly hewn in the rock, through the Jiothengrahen, to the (Q'/a hrs.) 
dreary Kreuzhoden (6.565'); thence 1 hr. to the pass of the Sanetsch ^7287'), 
on this side of which there is a cross (Z-a Grande Croix). Descent (passing 
the large Zanflewon Glacier on the right) to the ('/a hr.) Alp Zanjieuron 
(6775'; Hot. Sanetsch, plain), with tine view of the Alps of theValais, whence 
the Oldenhorn (p. 234) may be ascended in 4 hrs., the Wildhorn (p. 184) in 
4'/2 hrs., the Sanetschhorn, or Montbriin (96G5') in 5 hrs., and the Diableret 
(p. 234) in 6 hrs. (ascent of the latter easiest from this side). The Sublage 
(8973'), 2V2 hrs. from the hotel, aftbrds a magnificent view of the valleys 
and mountains of the S. Valais as far as Jlont Blanc. Then by a winding 
path down to the Alp Glaru (4920") and through the wild ravine of the 
Marge to the bold Pont Neuf, whence a carriage road leads to (3 hrs.) 
Chandolin, and by Granois and Ormona to (IV2 hr.) Sion (p. 294). Ascent 
from Sion to the pass 6, descent thence to Gsteig 3 hrs. 

The new road here turns to the S.W., and ascends the valley of 
the Reuschbach through woods and pastures, in view of the preci- 
pices of the Oldenhorn (p. 234) and the Se.c Rouge (9767'), to 
(5 M.) the Col de Pillon (5086'), at the S. foot of the Palette 
(p. 234). In descending (passing the Cascade du Bard, above us on 
the left) we soon obtain a view of a valley bounded by tine wooded 
mountains, and thickly studded with houses and chalets known col- 
lectively asOrmont-Dessus. To the left is the rocky Creuxde Champ, 
the base of the Diablerets , the numerous brooks falling from which 
form the Grande-Eau. We first reach (3 M. from the Col) Le Plan 
(3815'; *H6tel des Diablerets, with baths, R., L., & A. 31,2, D, 'i, 
pens. 7-8 fr.. beside the post-station for Ormont-Dessus ; *H6t.- 
Pens. Bellevue, moderate; Pens, du Moulin, Pens. Chamois), and in 
1/2 hr. more, past the prettily-situated *Hdtel Pillon, Vers I'Eglise 
(3650'; Pens. Mon Sejour; Pens. Busset; Hotel de I' Ours, all un- 
pretending), with the church of the upper part of the valley. 

Excursions from Plan. (Guides: Mollien , V. Gottraul, Fr. Bemel, 
Fr. and ^foise Pichard.) To the Creux de Champ (4275'), a grand rocky 
basin at the Jf. base of the Diablerets, with waterfalls on every side, 
1"2 hr. (to the font of the largest fall). A good survey of the Creux de 
Champ, the Oldenhorn, etc., is obtained from La Layaz (5340'), 1'/-.' !>•■. S. of 



234 Route 66. LE SEPEY. 

Plan. — Ascent of the -Palette (7133'; guide 5, horse 12 fr.), easy as fai- as 
the (2'/4 hrs.) chalets of Isenaux; thence, without path, and rather rough, 
3/4 hr. more to the top; view of the Bernese Alps from the Diablerets to 
the Jungfrau and of the Dent du Midi to the S.W.; at the N. base of the 
mountain lies the pretty Arnen-See. Or we may ascend from the Col de 
Pillon in 11/2-2 hrs. , past the small Rettau-See. — Pointe de Ueilleret 
(640i'), 2'/2 hrs. from Vers TEglise; no difficulty; view extending to 
Mont Blanc. — Good walkers need no guide for any of these. 

The Oldenhorn (10,250'), Fr. Becca d^Audon, a superb point of view, is as- 
cended from Gsteig (7 hrs.), or from Le Plan (8 hrs.; guide 15 fr.). A 
steady head and sure foot necessary. Travellers from Ormont spend the 
night in the chalet of Pillon; those from Gsteig on the Upper Oldenalp. 

The Diableret (10,650'; 7 hrs.; guide 18 fr.), from the Hotel des Diab- 
lerets, difficult. Imposing view. Easy descent over the Zanjleuvon Glacier 
to the Sanetsch Pass (comp. p. 233). 

To ViLLAEs (4 hrs.), OE Gbton (41/2 hrs.) by the Col de la Ceoix, a 
fine route (or over the Col de la Croix and the Chamossaire to Villars 
6V2 hrs.); guide, 6 fr., not indispensable. From the Hotel des Diablerets we 
ascend the valley of the Grande-Eau for l>/4 M., and then enter a lateral 
valley by a bridle-path to the right (S.W.). After a somewhat steep ascent 
of 13/4 hr., with almost uninterrupted views of the Diablerets, we reach 
the Col de la Croix (5687'), 5 min. N. of the hamlet of La Croix. View lim- 
ited. (Travellers who do not ascend the Chamossaire should at least 
mount the pastures to the right of the Col de la Croix for 1/2 hr. in order 
to obtain a fine view of Mont Blanc.) The path descends on the right 
bank of the Gryonne, and after I'/j hr. divides : to the left to Arveye 10 min. ; 
to the right to Villare 20 min. (p. 229). — The path to Gryon descends to 
the left a little above Arveye , crosses the brook , and reaches Gryon in 
40 min. (p. 238). This route is preferable to a path to Gryon which crosses 
the Gryonne V'-; hr. from the pass and follows the left bank. 

Adjoining Ormont-Dessus are the houses of the lower part of the 
valley, known as Ormont-Dessous. About 41/9 M. from Vers I'Eglise 
the road joins that from Chateau d'Oex (p. 237); to the S. appears 
the Dent du Midi. I72 M. Le Sepey (3704'; Hot. des Alpes; Mont 
d'Or, well spoken of; Cerf, moderate; one-horse carr. to Plan 8 fr. ; 
and fee of 2fr.), the chief village in the lower part of the valley. The 
clock here strikes each hour a second time after a minute's interval. 

ExcuESiONs. Pic de Chaussu (7798'), 41/2 hrs., not difficult (comp. p. 237). 
— Ascent of the ''Chamossaire via Bretaye (3V2-4 hrs.), and descent to Villars 
(l'/2 hr.), see p. 229. — A road, with iine views, leads from Sepey by Xes 
Cretes to the lofty village of (21/2 M.) Leysin (4150'; tavern, good 'Yvorne'). 
Thence to (l'/2 hr.) Aigle a good path to the left by the fountain beyond 
the church, afl'ording charming views of the Rhone Valley, the Dent du 
Midi, part of the Mont Blanc chain, and to the left the Dent de Morcles, Dent 
Favre, and Grand McEveran. — Footpath to (I'/a hr.) Corbeyrier (p. 229). 

The road turns suddenly to the S.W. in a fine wooded valley. 
P'ar below, the Grande-Eau forms several falls ; to the left rises the 
Chamossaire (p. 229). Near Aigle we cross the Grande-Eau. 

Aigle, 7 M. from Sepey, see p. 229. 

67. From Bulle to Chateau d'(Ex and Aigle. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 216, 232. 

4IV2 M. Diligence twice daily to (18 M.) Chateau d'CEx in 3'/2 brs. 
(4 fr. 85 c, coup^ 6 fr. 30 c); thence to (23V2 M.) Aigle daily in 51/2 h". 
(8 fr. 25 c, coupe 11 fr. 25 c). — Carriage and pair from Bulle to Aigle 
in 7 hrs., 75-80 fr. 



BULLE. 67. Route. 235 

Bidle (2487' ; pop. 2746 ; *H6t. des Alpes, near the station, R. 2, 
B. 1, D. 2V2 fr. ; * Union ; Cheval Blanc; Hotel de la Ville or Paste), 
a busy little town, the chief place of the Oruyere and the centre of 
the Freiburg dairy-farming district, is the terminus of the Romont 
and BuUe railway (p. 201). The environs consist of rich pasture- 
land, famed for Gruyere cheese and the melodious 'ranz des vaches'. 
The natives speak a Romanic dialect, known as 'Gruerien'. 

On the slopes of the Mole'son, 2 M. to the S. (carriage in 20 min. lie 
the sulphur-baths of Montbarry (2712'; pens. 5-6 fr.), commanding a charm- 
ing view. Ascent of the Mok'son hence, 3-3V2 hrs. 

Ascent of the Biol£son feosi Bdlle, 4 hrs.; guide (8 fr.) unnecessary 
for the experienced. We follow the Chatel St. Denis road (see below) for 
3/4 M., and diverge to the left by a saw-mill. The path gradually as- 
cends by the brook La Treme, which it crosses by a (20 miu.) mill, to the 
(V'.' hr.) red-roofed buildings of Parl-Dieu, formerly a Carthusian monasterj' 
(3133'), and leads along the W. slope (guide-posts) of the moimtain, cros.s- 
ing several small affluents of the Treme. We pass (',2 hr.) the Gros-Chalet- 
Neiif; (1 hr.) GrosPlanay (a rustic inn in a large pasture); (3/4 hr.) chalet 
oi Bonne Fontaine. Thence by a steep path to the summit in '/2 hr. more 
(Inn near the top). 

The '^'Uoleson (6578'), the Rigi of W. Switzerland, is a bold rock, preci- 
pitous on every side, surrounded with meadows and forests, which afford 
an excellent field for the botanist. The view embraces the Lake of Geneva, 
the Mts. of Savoy, the Dent d'Oche and Dent du Midi, and stretches to the 
Jlont Blanc chain, of which the summit and the Aiguille Verte and Aiguille 
d'Argentiere are visible. To the left of the latter, nearer the foreground, 
rises the Dent de Morcles, the first peak of a chain which culminates 
in the Diablerets in the centre, and extends to the heights of Gruyere 
at our feet. The only visible peak of the Valaisian Alps is the Grand 
Combin, to the left of the Mont Blanc group. Most of the Bernese Alps 
are also concealed. To the extreme left, the Titlis. To the W. the Jura. 

Ascent op the Mol6son from Albeuve (see p. 236; 3'/2-4 hrs.). On 
the outskirts of the village the path crosses to the left bank of the brook, 
traverses pastures, enters a picturesque ravine, and follows a well-shaded 
slope to a small chapel and a saw-mill. Here we cross the stream, re- 
cross it at a charcoal-kiln , ',■■2 hr. farther , and reach (5 min.) the first 
chalet. Towards the N.N.E. the ridge separating the Mole'son from the 
Little Moleson is now visible. The path continues traceable to the vicinity 
of the highest chalet , which we leave on the left. Thence a somewhat 
fatiguing climb of Vjt hr. to the arete, which is easily found, though 
there is no path, and to the summit, which rises before us, in 10 min. more. 

From Bulle through the Jauiithal to BoUigen in the Simmenthal, see 
p. 187. (Diligence in summer daily in 6V4 hrs.) — From Bulle diligence 
every afternoon, by Vuadens, Vaulruz (Hot. de la Ville), and Seinsales, 
to (2'/2 hrs.) Chatel St. Denis (2670' ; Hdt. de la Ville) , a small town 
prettily situated on the Veveyse. (The Mok'son may be ascended hence, by 
the Alp Tremetlaz , in 4 hrs.) From Chatel St. Denis a diligence plies 
thrice a day in 50 min. to the railway-station of Palizieux; another runs 
every morning in 1 hr. 40 min. to Vevey. 

'The road from Bulle to Chateau d'CEx leads past (8/4 M.) La 
Tout de Treme , with its picturesque old tower , to (1 '/2 ^^ •} 
Epagny (2390' ; Croix Blanche ; one-horse carr. to Montbovon 7 fr.). 
On a steep rocky hill to the right lies the old town of Gruyeres 
(2723' ; *FleuT de Lys, plain), with a well-preserved old castle of 
the once powerful Counts of Gruyeres, who became extinct in the 
16th cent. , flanked with massive towers and walls, and now con- 
taining frescoes, a collection of old weapons, etc. (fee to attendant). 

We enter the pretty valley of the Sarine, or Saane. At (l'/2 M.) 



230 Route 07. JAMAN.. From Bulle 

Enney ("iilO'l we observe the tooth-like Dent de Corjeon (6460'! 
in the background; on the right are Les Va dalles {Jy^OT) , spurs 
of the Mole'son. At the mouth of a ravine opposite (2V4 M. ) Vil- 
lard-sous-Mont lies the large village of 'TV'mf/-F<7i(;r(/f]F6tel-Pens.). 
Passing Neirivue, we next reach (IM. ) Albeuve ( '2487'; *An(je, mod- 
erate; ascent of the Mole'son, see p. 235), cross the Honyrin ( below, 
to the left, is a picturesque old bridge), and arrive at (3 M. )Mont- 
bovon (2608'; *H6t.-Pens. duJaman, moderate; horses and guides). 

From Montbovom oveb the Jaman to Montreux (6 hrs.) or Vevet 
(T'/j lirs.)- Guide unnecessary (8 fr.); horse to the top of the pass 15, to 
Les Avants 20, to Montreux or Vevey 25 fr. A most attractive walk; 
but the pass should be reached as early as possible, as the midday mists 
are apt to conceal the lake from view. 

From the hotel we follow the road for 30 paces, and then ascend to 
the right-, 25 min., we turn to the right by a house; 35 min., bridge over 
the Hongrin; '/4 It., church of the scattered village of Allieres; 1/4 '"■., 
Croix Noire inn. (A direct route from Albeuve to this point follows the 
Montbovon road for '/2M., and diverges to the right by a path to Sciernes 
and Allieres, l'/4 hr. ; bevond Sciernes we take the path descending a 
little to the left.) 

The path now ascends gradually to the foot of the pass, then more 
rapidly over green pastures (not too much to the left), to the chalets of 
the Plan de Jaman, a little beyond the boundary between cantons Freiburg 
and Vaud, and the (IV2 hr.) 'Col de la Dent de Jaman (4974'). A most 
beautiful prospect is suddenly disclosed here, embracing the Rochers de 
Naye and the entire range to the S. as far as the Tour d'Ai, and to the 
N. as far as the Dent de Lys and the Moleson; also the rich Canton de 
Vaud, the S. part of the Jura chain, the long range of the Savoy Alps, 
the E. angle of the Lake of Geneva, and the huge Valaisian Mts. to the 
S. From the Dent de Jaman (6165'; fatiguing ascent of IV4 hr. from the 
Col) the view is still more extensive, including the lakes of Geneva, 
Neuchatel, and Morat, Pilatus, and the Weissenstein. 

From the pass to Montreux the path cannot be mistaken; 12 min. 
from the chalets it turns to the right (the path to the left, skirting the E. 
slope of the Bale, or brook of Montreux, being shorter but rough); 25 min., 
a bridge over the brook; then a slight ascent, and a level walk to (Vahr.) 
Les Avants (p. 226). A new road descends the W. slope of the valley. Where 
it trends to the W., 2 M. from Les Avants, at the beginning of the region 
of fruit-trees, we descend by a paved path to the left to (10 min.) Homier, 
and then rapidly to the left again to (1/2 hr.) Montreux-Vernex (p. 225). 

The road to the right at the bend above mentioned soon leads to 
the village of Charnex (2230'), charmingly situated in the midst of orchards, 
from which another road, passing to the N. of Chatelard, leads to Brent 
and Chailly. Instead of entering the village, we descend by a road to the 
left, which leads us into the Vevey road. To Vevey (p. 223), 4V2 M. from 
the bend. (Walkers from Vevey take the first path to the left, by the last 
houses of La Totir, and then incline to the right; 12 min., to the right; 
12 min., a finger-post, indicating the way to'Challey, Charnex, and Jaman'.) 

The valley of the Sarine now turns to the E., and we enter a 
wooded ravine, the stream flowing far below in a deep rocky chan- 
nel. In a wider part of the valley lies (21/4 M.) La Tine (Inn), with 
beautiful meadows. Farther on (2'/2 M-) we observe on the oppo- 
site bank the pretty village of Rossinieres Q*'Pens. Grand Chalet, 
5-6 fr. ; Pens. Dubuis; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer). At (IV2 M. ) 
Les Moulins, at the mouth of the Tourneresse, the road to Aigle di- 
verges to the right (see p. 237). "We cross the Sarine by the (•''/4 M.) 
bridge of Le Pre, and ascend to (1 M.) — 



to Chateau d'Oex. CHATEAU D'(EX. 67. Route. 237 

18 M. Cll§.teaa d'(Ex. — *//d^ Bei-l/iod, in an open situation, R., 
L.. >k A. 3, D 3 fr., patronized by English travellers: "Ours, in the village, 
R., L., & A. 2V2-3'/2fr. ; 'Pens. Mosat, ''Villa d'CE.v, Bricod, de In Cheneau, 
du Midi, Morier-Rosai, etc., pens, from 5 fr. — Turrian, confectioner, ices, 
also a few rooms, opposite Berthod. 

Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer. 

Chateau d'Oex, Ger. Oesch (3498'}, is a scattered village and 
summer resort in a green valley. The churchy situated on a liill, com- 
mands a good view. To tlie E. rise the jagged Rilhlihorn (7570') 
and the Gumfhih (S068'). 

*Mont Cray (6795'j may be ascended from Chateau d'Oix in 3 lirs. 
(guide desirable}. The view embraces the Bernese and Valaisian Alps as 
far as Mont Blanc, and the lakes of Bienne and Neuchatel to the N. 

From Chateau d'Oe.x to (21/2 hrs.) Saanen, sec p. 188. 

From Chateau u'(}>x to Aigle (23 M. ; diligence daily in 
o'/o hrs.). The road diverges from the Bulle road at (1^/4 M.) Les 
Moulins (p. 236) to the left, and ascends the valley of the Tour- 
neresse (Vallee de VEtivaz) in long windings. (Walkers follow 
the old road, diverging at Le Pre, just heyond the Sarine bridge.) 
Tlie road runs high above the valley, affording picturesque views of 
the profound rocky bed of the brook. At (3'/4 M.) Au-Devnnt the 
road enters a more open tract, and its continuation is seen on the 
mountain to the riglit, but it remains in the valley as far as (2 M.) 
L' Etivaz (386b'\ where it turns and quits the ravine. (Pedestrians 
avoid this long bend by a rough, stony path descending to the right 
by a saw-mill in the valley, and rejoining the road considerably 
higher up.) From Etivaz (above, anew hotel) to the top of the 
hill (5070') 2 M. ; then a slight descent to (2/4 M.) La Lecherettc 
(4520'; Inn). We next reach (I1/4 M.) Les Mosses (Inn), where 
we have a splendid view of the Dent du Midi. The road now 
descends the valley of the Raverette to (2'/4 M-) IJa Comballaz 
(4476'; *Couronne^, nuich frequented for its mineral spring and 
its pure air. (Pic de Chaussy, 7798', an easy ascent of 3 hrs. ; 
see p. 234.) Beyond this the road overlooks a very picturesque 
basin, with the Dlablerets and Oldenhorn in the background, and 
winds down to (3 M.) Le Sepey (p. 234) and (7 M.) Aigle (p. 229). 



68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville. 

Vvinp. Map, p. 232. 

12 hrs. From Be.\ to Gryon 7 M. (hotel omnibus ',2 fr. ; diligence 2 fr. 
90 c., one-horse carr. 12 fr., descent 8fr.); then a bridle-path. Guide to 
Aven desirable (P. L. Amiguet, P. F. Broyon, and O. F. and Henri Aulet 
at Gryon; a guide may generally be found at Anzeindaz also: from Gryon 
to Sion 12 fr.). Horse 20 fr. 

The route over the Pas de Cheville , cutting oft' the right angle formed 
by the Rhone Valley at Jlartigny, presents an almost continuous series of 
wild rocky landscapes, especially on the Valais (S.) side, and commands the 
Rhone Valley towards the end of the journey. 

Bex, p. 230. The road leads to the N. to Bevieux (p. 230), crosses 
the Avan^on, and ascends in zigzags (which the old path cuts off), 



238 Route 68. PAS DE CHEVILLE. 

passing the villages of La Chene, Fenalet, and Aux Ponscs. Fine 
view of the Dent du Midi (p. 242). Near Gryon we obtain to the 
right a pleasing glimpse of the village of Frenieres and the falls of a 
branch of the Avan^on, descending from the Valine des Plans (p. 230). 

7M. Gryon (3632'; Pens. Saussaz; Pens. Morel, pens, at both 
4'/2-5 fr.) is a considerable village in a picturesque situation, adapted 
for a stay of some time. To Villars and Ormont-Dessus, sec p. 234. 

Bkidle Path. By the (10 min.) last house of Gryon we follow 
the path to the right, in view of the four peaks of the Diablerets, 
and skirt their steep S. slopes in the valley of the Avangon. 
On the right rise the Argentine (7985') and the Grand Maveran 
(10,043'). Above the (1 hr.) chalets of (Serpnemenf (4245') we cross 
the Avan^on , and for a short distance traverse a pine-forest on 
the abrupt limestone slopes of the Argentine, which glitter like silver 
in the sunshine. Crossing the Avan(;on again, and passing the 
(3/4 hr.) chalets of Solalex (4810') , we ascend a stony slope in a 
long curve, and next reach the chalets of (l'/2 tr.) Anzeindaz 
(6220'; Inn with 9 beds, open from the middle of July to Sept. 
only). To the S. lies the Glacier de Paneyrossaz, descending from 
the Tete a Pierre Grept (9545'), adjoined on the E. by the Tete du 
Oros- Jean (S6Q7'). To theN. rise the rugged and riven limestone cliffs 
and peaks of the Diablerets (highest peak 10,650'; ascent difficult 
and dizzy ; experts take 4 hrs. from Anzeindaz; comp. pp.234, 233). 
Our path now ascends gradually, to (2/4 hr.) the Pas de Cheville 
(6722'). In the distance to the E. are the Alps of Valais, over which 
towers the Weisshorn. The path now descends to the left, round 
the mountain, where a wall and gate mark the frontier of Valais, 
and over steep and stony slopes, past a waterfall, to the ('/2 hr.) 
Chalets de Cheville (5710'). Here we cross the brook, follow the slope 
to the right, and then descend in zigzags, passing the chalets of Der- 
horence (5213'), to ('/2 hr.) the Lac de Derborence (4698'), in a 
gloomy basin formed by a fall of rocks from the Diablerets in 1749. 
To the left, high above us, lies the great Zanfleuron Glacier (p. 233). 

We skirt the S. side of the lake ; then cross (3/4 hr.') the Lizerne, 
follow the left bank, and, passing the chalets of Besson (4370'), 
descend into the Val de Triquent, and skirt a wooded slope descend- 
ing steeply from the E. into the profound gorge of the Lizerne. 
The path, for the most part protected by a low stone wall, and quite 
safe, except that at certain times it is exposed to showers of stones, 
gradually descends to (1^/4 hr.) the Chapelle St. Bernard (3530'), at 
the end of the Lizerne gorge, where an extensive view of the Rhone 
Valley is suddenly disclosed. We now descend to the left to (20 min.) 
Aven, surrounded by fruit-trees, follow the slope to (20 min.) Erde 
and (25 min.) St. Severin, a thriving village belonging to Conthey, 
one of the chief wine-growing villages in the Rhone Valley , which 
extends to the (1^2 M.) bridge over the Morge. From this point by 
the high-road to (2'/4 M.) Sion, see p. 294. Instead of following 



THONON. 69. Route. 239 

the dusty road , we may cross the vine-clad hill of Muraz from St. 
Severin by a path commanding a fine view. 

A shorter route (shaded in the afternoon) on the right bank of the 
Lizerne diverges to the right 5 min. before the Lizerne bridge (p. 238). 
It crosses debris at first, and is not easy to trace. Beyond the (10 min.) 
chalets of Mottelon, we ascend to the right and pass above the chalets 
of Servaplann (4075'; milk) to (1 hr.) those of VAirette. Then nearly 
level, with fine views of the Rhone Valley ; lastly a zigzag descent to 
(I'/ahr.) Ardon (Hotel du Pont), 1/2 BI. from the station of that name (p. 294). 

69. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. 
Lake of Geneva (South Batik). Val d'lUiez. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 216, 252. 

Steamboat to Bouveret along the S. Bank 3 times daily, in 4'/a-5 hrs. 
(fare 6 or 3 fr.). Stations : Cologny, Belotte, Bellerive, Corsier, Atiieres, Her- 
mance, Totigues-Douvaine, Nernier, Yvoire, Aiiihj/S^ches, T/ionon, Amphion, 
and Evian. — Railway via Annemasse to (42 M.) Bouveret in 2V2 hrs. 
(fares 8 fr. 30, 6 fr. 25. 4 fr. 55 c. ; comp. p. 246). 

Geneva, see p. 205. On leaving the quay the steamer affords a 
fine retrospect of the town with its numerous villas. It touches at 
Cologny (the village lying on the hill above, p. 215), La Belotte (for 
Vesenaz, p. 215), Bellerive (for Collonye, a little inland), Corsier, 
and Anieres. At Hermance (*Pens. Sina'i; Pens, du Colombier) the 
brook of that name falls into the lake, forming the boundary be- 
tween the Canton of Geneva and Savoy (France). Then Tongues and 
Nernier, opposite which Nyon (p. 218) is conspicuous on theN. bank. 

Beyond Yvoire with its ancient castle, situated on a promontory, 
the lake suddenly expands to its greatest width (8^/4 M.). The N. 
bank is now so distant that its villages are only distinguished in 
clear weather. A large bay opens to the S., in which lies Excenevrex. 
The Savoy Mts. become more conspicuous. 

Thonon (1400'; pop. 5500; Hotel de Thonon, a large new 
house; Hotel de I' Europe, on the terrace; Balance; Ville de Ge- 
neve) , rising picturesquely from the lake , the ancient capital of 
the province of Chablais , possesses handsome buildings and a lofty 
terrace in the upper town, the site of a palace of the Dukes of Savoy 
which was destroyed by the Bernese in 1536. (Cable-tramway from 
the steamboat-quay). 

Railway to Bellegarde, see p. 246. — To the S. of Thonon (3 M.) is 
the village of Les AUinges, commanded by a ruined castle (ascent V2 hr. ; 
fine view). 

From Thonon a road ascends the pretty Valley of the Stance by 
Le Biot and St. Jean d^Aiilpli (with ruins of a monastery) to (20 51.) a bridge 
which crosses the Drance opposite to Montriond, beyond which the road 
divides. The road to the right leads by Les Gels (3645') to (10 M.) Tait- 
inges (p. 256); that to the left to (3 M.) Morzine (Hotel des Alpes). From 
Morzine over the Col de Jouplane or the Col de la GoUse to (4 hrs.) Sa- 
moms, see p. 256 ; over the Col de Coux to (S'/a hrs.) Champiry, see p. 242. 

The steamer next passes the ancient chateau of Ripaille, on the 
lake, a little to theN. of Thonon, once the seat of Duke Victor Ama- 
deus VIII. of Savoy. The long promontory round which the vessel 
now steers has been formed by the deposits of the Drance, which 



240 liuute ay. BOUVEKET. From Geneva 

falls into the lake here. In the bay lie the baths of Anipkion (Gv. 
Hot. des Bains), with a chalybeate spring, in a chestnut-grove. 

We next touch at Evian-les-Bains {'''Grand-Hot. d'Evian, with 
garden on the lake, high charges, K., L., & A. from 4'/o, D. 5 tV.; 
Hot. des Bains ; Hot. de France; Hot. du Nord; *Hdt. de Fonbonne. 
on the lake; Restaurants at the Casino and Chateau Gothi'iue, dear), 
a small town picturesquely situated (2913 inh.), with a conspicuous 
church-tower. In the centre of the town is the Bath-house (water 
containing bi-carbonate of soda), the garden behind which affords a 
beautiful view. At the end of the pleasant lake promenade is the 
Casino, with a theatre. — Railway to Bouveret and Bellegarde, p. 24G. 

On the lake, near station Tour-Ronde, is the old chateau of 
Blonay with a park. Opposite lies Lausanne (p. 220), picturesquely 
situated on the hill-side ; more to the right is visible the lofty 
Paudezc viaduct, on the Freiburg Railway (p. 202). The hills of the 
S. bank, which the boat now skirts , become steeper and higher. 
In a romantic situation close to the lake is Meillerie, where, in 
Rousseau's 'Nouvelle Helo'ise', St. Preux takes shelter at the house 
of Mme. Volmar. It was accessible from the lake only, until Napoleon 1. 
made the Simplon road through the rocks. The railway Is here car- 
ried through a tunnel. Beautiful view near Les Vallettes. 

St. Gingolph. (Hot.-Pens. du Lac; Lion d'Or), on a prouiontory 
opposite Vevey (p. 223), belongs half to Savoy, and half to Valais, 
the boundary being the Morge, which flows through a deep ravine. 
The grotto of Viviers, with its springs, may be visited by boat. 

Interesting excursion, with fine views, up the ravine of tlie Morge and 
across the mountain to Port Valais (see below). We may extend our walk 
on the left bank of the Morge to (iV4 hr.) A'^ovel (two poor inns), ascend 
the Blanchard (4642'; with guide, IVj hr. ; milk etc. to be had in a chalet 
near the top), and return by the right bank of the Morge through beautiful 
forest to St. Gingolph. — Ascent of the Dent d'Oche (7300') from Kovel, 
interesting, 4-5 hrs. (with guide); the Grammont (7145') 4 hrs., also inter- 
esting. — To the E. of Novel a tolerable bridle-path leads round the S. 
side of the Grammont, and past the lakes of Lovenex and Taney, in 47^ hrs. 
to Vouvry (p. 241). 

Bouveret {Tour; Restaurant Chalet de la Foret, with extensive 
grounds), lies at the S.E. end of the Lake of Geneva, ^/^ M. to 
the S.W. of the mouth of the Rhone, which has converted the ad- 
joining land into a marsh. Its impetuous current, caWei la Bat- 
tayliere, may be traced for upwards of 1 M. in the lake. — Rail- 
way to Annemasse and Geneva and to Bellegarde, see p. 246. 

The Railway enters the Rhone Valley to the S.E. and follows 
the left bank. At the foot of a rocky hill to the right lies Port 
Valais, the Portus Vallesiae of the Romans, once on the lake, but 
now 11/2 M. inland. Near the defile of La Porte du Sex (1290'), 
which was anciently fortified, and formed the key to Canton Valais 
in this direction, the rock approaches so near the river as scarcely 
to leave room for the road. The railway is carried out into the bed 
of the river. A wooden bridge crosses to Chessel on the right bank. 
To the right rises the Dent du Midi (p. 241). 



to St. Maurice. YAL D'lLLIEZ. 69. Route. 241 

4 M. Vouvry (Paste), on the right, is the first station; beauti- 
ful view by the church (3 M. from the station of Roche, see p. 2*28). 
The Rhone is joined here by the Stockalper Canal, begun a century 
ago by a family of that name, but never finished. 

The ascent of the 'Grammont (7145'; 5 hrs. ; guide not necessiiry for 
adepts) from Vouvry is very attractive and not difficult. A bridle-path 
(p. 240; horses at Vouvry) ascends via Miex to the (S'/z hrs.) beautiful 
Lac Taney (rustic inn); thence in I'/a hr. to the summit, which commands 
a magnificent view, ranging from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn and the 
Jungfrau and over the Lake of Geneva. Descent tn yovel, p. 240. 

To the right are the villages of Vionnaz and Muraz at the foot 
of the hills. Opposite the former lies Yvorne (p. 228), to the 
right of which rise the Diablerets and the Oldenhorn. We next pass 
Colomhey, with its nunnery (fine view). A suspension-bridge, 70 yds. 
long, crosses the Rhone here to Ollon-St. Triphon (p. 229). 

10 M. Monthey (1380' ; *Croix d'Or; Cerf), with an old chateau 
and glass-works. In a chestnut-grove (guide advisable) 20 min. 
above it, among a number of boulders, is the huge Pierre-a-dzo, 
balanced on a point not exceeding a few square inches in area. 

To the S.W. of Monthey opens the 'Val d'lHiez, about 15 M. in length, 
remarkable for its fresh green pastures, picturesque scenery, and stalwart 
inhabitants. (One-horse carr. from Monthey to Troistorrents 6, two-horse 
10, to Champery 10 i' 20, to Morgins 12 & 24 fr. and fee; omnibus to 
Champery in summer daily in 374 hrs., 2 fr. 90 c.) Near Monthey the new 
road ascends on the left bank of the Yieze through vineyards, and afterwards 
for 2 M. through a chestnut-wood , in numerous windings (cut off by the 
old paved bridle-path, following the telegraph posts, the beginning of which 
had better be asked for at Monthey). Beautiful retrospect of the valley 
of the Rhone, Bex and Aigle, the Diablerets, and the Grand Mceveran. 
About 3/4 M. above Monthey the old path joins the road, which we now 
follow to the left where the telegraph-wires turn in that direction, and do 
not again quit. (The path to the right ascends to Morgin.) We ne.xt 
reach (l'/2 M.) the prettily situated village of Troistorrents (2500'; Hotel- 
Pens. "Troistorrents), with a good fountain near the church. (Here to the 
W. opens the Val de Morgins, in which lie the Baths of Morgins, 4405', 
3 hrs. from Monthey ; the chalybeate water is chiefly used for drinking ; 
'Grand Hotel, pens. 6-8 fr.) The road in the Val d'llliez graduallv ascends, 
in view of the Dent du Midi all the way, to (2V2 M.) Val d'Jlliez (3145'; 
Hot.-Pens. du Repos) and (3 M.) Champery (3450'; "Hdtel de la Dent du 
Midi, R. 2, lunch 2\% D. 31/2, pens, from 6 fr. ; -Croix Federate, R. H/-, I). 
2 fr. ; Pens, du Nord), the highest village in the valley, beautifully situated. 

Excursions fkom CHAMPfeKV. (Guides, Maiir. Caillet. the brothers 
Grenon, Ant. Clement, E. Joris, etc.) The Roc d'Ayerne (1 hr.) afl'ords a good 
survey of the environs. — The *Culet (6448' ; 3 hrs.-. guide 4 fr.) commands 
a splendid view , especially of the Dent du Midi. We follow the path to 
the Col de Coux (p. 242) for 3/^ hr., turn to the right by a small shrine 
where the path divides, pass a large chalet on the left, and another on 
the right, farther up ; then through pine-wood , and by a narrow path to 
the cross on the top. Frequent opportunities of asking the way. 

'Dent du Midi (10,450' ; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 18, with a night at Bonaveau 20, 
with descent to Vernayaz 24 or 26 fr.). The previous night is spent in the 
chalets of (2 hrs.) Bonaveau (5103'; good quarters), l^A hr. from Champery 
(p. 242), thence by the Pas d'Encel, the Col de Clusanfe, and the Col 
des Paresseux to the summit 5-6 hrs., the last 3 hrs. very fatiguing, but 
without danger to the sure-footed. Late in summer the path is almost free 
from snow, and there is no glacier to cross. The view of Mont Blanc and 
the Alps of the Valais and Bern is imposing; the background to the S. 
is formed by the Alps of Dauphine and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva 

Bakdrkkk, Switzerland. 13th Edition. \Q 



242 Route 09. COL PE COUX. 

is visible from Villeneuve to Vevey. We may descend to Salvan (5^4 lirs.); 
at first a toilsome descent over debris to (3'/4 brs.) the meagre pastures of 
tbe upper Salan/e Alp (6278'; occupied in August only); then across the 
Alp and past the picturesque falls of tbe Salan/e by a steep and stony 
path to (l'/2 hr.) Van d^en haul (milkj, where we cross the Salanfe. A 
better path now skirts the S. side of the valley (affording a view of 
Mont Blanc as the corner of the Col de la Maize is turned) , and then 
descends to (1 hr.) Salvan. 

Tour Sallieres (10,587'; 9-10 hrs., guide 30 fr.; spend night at Bona- 
veau, see p. 241), a difficult and fatiguing ascent, crossing the Olacier du 
Mont-Ruan. Superb view of Mont Blanc. — Similar view from the Dents 
Blanches (91(Xy), ascended by the Barmaz Alp in 6 hrs., without danger 
for proficients (guide 15 fr.). 

Passes. Fkom Champ£rt to SAMoiiNS over the Cols de Coux 
AND DE LA GoLftsE, 6'/2 hrs. ; guide (13 fr.) unnecessary. At the (2/4 hr.) 
small shrine mentioned on p. 241, we keep to the left, and, passing several 
chalets and looking back on the imposing Dent du Midi, reach (2 hrs.) 
the Col de Coux (6310'; Inn)., the frontier of Switzerland and Savoy, 
which towards the W. overlooks the valley of the Drance. The saddle to 
the left is tbe Col de la Golese. In descending, partly through wood, we 
avoid the paths leading to the right to Morzine ( p. 239). On leaving the 
wood we see the continuation of the path bearing to the left to the (IV2 hr.) 
Col de la Golese (54S0'). Beautiful view of the side-valley in which Les 
Allamans lies, and afterwards of the valley of the Giffre. Then (1^/4 hr.) 
Samoens (p. 256|. A good road thence to (4'/2 M.) Sixt (p. 256). 

Feom CHAMPfiET TO SiXT OVER THE CoL DE Sageeoh, 8-9 hrs., ar- 
duons, only for adepts (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la 
Dent du Midi, we descend by a narrow road leading towards tbe head of 
the valley to a (20 min.) bridge, and beyond it, at (3 min.) the point 
where two brooks unite to form the Vi^ze, we cross another bridge, and 
avoid the path to the left. After 10 min. more we take the path to the 
left, ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 min. from the top of the ascent 
reach the Chalets de Bonaveau (p. 241); thence we ascend gradually, 
skirting precipitous rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas d^Encel, where a little climb- 
ing, facilitated by iron rods attached to the rock, is necessary. In '/4 hr. more 
the path to the Col de Clusanfe diverges to the left (see below). Our route 
ascends slowly over tbe pastures of the Clusanfe Alp, on tbe left bank of 
the brook, crosses tbe brook (1/2 hr.), and then mounts a very steep and 
dizzy path to tbe (1 hr.) Col de Sagerou (7917'), a sharp arete descending 
abruptly on both sides, between the (r.) Dents Blanches (see above) and (1.) 
Mt. Ruan (9995'; 3 brs. from the pass; attractive). We descend thence 
to the (^^li hr.) chalets of Vogealles and ('/a hr.) Sorce , and along an 
almost perpendicular rocky slope into the ('/2 hr.) valley of the Giffre. 
In 11/4 hr. we reach Ifant Bride, and in IV4 hr. more Sixt (p. 256). 

Feom CHAMPfiRT to Veenataz over the Col de Clusanfe or Sezanfe 
(7940' ; 10-11 hrs.; with guide), fatiguing. Beyond the Pas d'Encel (see above) 
we ascend to the left to the col, between the Dent du Midi and the Tour 
Sallieres, and descend through the Salan/e Valley (see above) to Salvan 
and Vernayaz. — Or we may ascend to the right from the chalets of 
Salan/e, 1 hr. beyond the Col de Clusanfe, and cross the Col or Chieu 
d'Emaney (7960')i lying between the Tour Sallieres and the Luisin (p. 267), 
to the valley of tbe Trikge, Emaney, and (5-6 hrs.) Triquent (p. 268), or the 
Col d'Emaney and Col de Barberine (8136') to the valley of the Eau Noire, 
Barberine. and (7 hrs.) Valorcine (p. 266), or finallv to the E. by the Col 
de Salanfe (7290') to (3V2 hrs.) Evionnaz (p. 231). 

The train crosses the Vilze, which descends from the Val d'llliez, 
and at Massongex approaches the Rhone. At (I41/2 M.)5t. Maurice 
(p. 230) our line is joined hy that of the right bank. 



V. SAVOY, THE VALAIS, AND THE ADJACENT 
ITALIAN ALPS. 



70. From Geneva via Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to Cham- 
bery and back via Annecy 246 

Perte du Khone. From Bellegarde to Bouveret, 246. — 
Excursions from Aix-les-Bains : Lac du Bourget ; Haute- 
Combe, etc., 248. — From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy, 248. 

— Excursions from Chambery, 249. — From Albertville 
to Moutiers and to Beaufort, 250. — From Ugine to Sal- 
lanches or St. Gervais, 250. — Semnoz ; Parmelan ; Tour- 
nette, 251. — From Annecy to Scionzier via Grand Bor- 
nand and to Sallanclies over the Col des Aravis, 252. 

71. From Geneva to Chamonix 253 

i. Via Sallanclies 253 

>-From Bonneville to Taninges, 253. — Pointe Percee. 
St. Gervais-les-Bains, and over the Col de la Forclaz 
to Les Houches, 254. — Gorges de la Diosaz, 255. 

ii. Via Sixt 255 

Pralaire, 255. — Mole; Pointe de Marcelly, 256. — Ex- 
cursions from Sixt: Vallee du Fer a Cheval; Fond de 
la Combe; Pointe de Tanneverge; Pointe Pelouse, 256. 

— From Sixt to Chamonix over the Buet, 257. 

72. Chamonix and Environs 257 

Mont Blanc, 263. — From Chamonix over the Col du 
Geant to Courmayeur ; Cols de Triolet, de Pierre-Joseph, 
des Hirondelles, de Miage, 264. 

73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire, or 

to Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan 264 

Glacier d'Argentiere; Col dArgentiere ; Col du Char- 
donnet; Fenetre de Saleinaz; Col Dolent; Col des Grands 
Montets, etc., 265. — Gouffre de la Tete-Noire, 266. — 
Cascade du Dalley; Luisin; Dent du Midi, 267. 

74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme .... 268 

Glacier du Trient 268. — From the Col de Balme to the 
Tete-Noire, 269. — To Oraieres over the Col du Tour, 269. 

75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bon- 
homme and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc. 270 

Col de Voza; 270. — Mont Joli; Cols du Mont Tondu 
and de Trelatete, 271. — From Chapieux to Pre -St. 
Didier over the Little St. Bernard, 272. — Col de Che- 
couri ; Mont de la Saxe ; Pavilion du Fruitier, 274. — 
From Courmayeur to Martigny over the Col Ferret, 274. 

76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 275 

Tete de Cramont. From Pre- St. Didier to Bourg-St. 
Maurice over the Little St. Bernard. Mt. Valaisan, 
Belvedere, Lancebranlette, 275. — From Bourg-St. 
Maurice to Tignes, 275. — Becca di Nona ; Mont Emilius ; 
Mt. Fallere, 277, 278. — From Aosta to Zermatt over 
the Col de Valpelline. Mont Luseney. Passes from 
Valpellina to the Val St. Barthelemy, 278. 

77. The Graian Alps 280 

From Aosta to Cogne over the Passo d'Arbole. Punta 
del Pousset ; Grivola ; Punta di Tersiva, 281. — Passes 
from Cogne to Cereaole, Bard, etc., 282. — From Cogne 
to Valsavaranche over the Colle Lauzon, 282. — Cols 



244 SAVOY AND VALAIS. 



de THerbetet and Meaoncles. Gran Paradiao, 283. — From 
Valaavaranche to Rhemes Notre-Dame over the Col d'En- 
trelor; Colle diSort; Colle di Hliemes; Colle Roasetto, 
283. — From Rhemes Notre-Dame to Valgrisanche over 
the Colle dell a Fineatra. Rutoi-. Col du Mont, 283, 284. 
— From Villeneuve to Cereaole and Ponte over the Col 
de Nivolet. Col de la Galeae, 284, 285. 

78. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard . . . 285 

Gorges du Durnant, 285. — Mont Chemin. Val Cham- 
pex ; Col des Ecandies. Cabane d'Orny ; Fenetre de Sa- 
leinaz. Mont Brule, 286. — Valaorey ; Grand Combin; 
Mont Velan, 287. — Chenaletta; Pointe des Lacerandes; 
Mont Mort. From St. Bernard'a Hospice over the Col 
de Fenetre to Martigny, and over the Col Ferret to Cour- 
mayeur, 289. — Col de la Serena, 290. 

79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val 

de Bagnes 291 

Cabane de Panossiere; Grand Combin; Cols dvi Cret, de 
Sevreu, de Cleuson , and de Louvie, 291. — Excur- 
sions from Mauvoisin. Mont Avril ; Tour de Bouaaine; 
Grand Combin ; Mont Blanc de Seilon ; Mont Pleureur, 
etc., 292. — From Chermontane to Bourg-St. Pierre over 
the Col du Sonadon or the Col des Maisons Blanches; 
to Liappey over the Cols de Seilon, de Breney, and de 
Vasevay; to Valpellina over the Cols de Crete Seche, 
d'Otemma and de la Reuse d'Arolla, 292, 293. 

80. From Martigny over the Simplon to Novara or to Lago 
Maggiore 293 

Col des Etablons, 294. — Mont Bonvin. Forest of Pfyn ; 
Illgraben, 295. — Belalp; Aletsch Glaciers; Sparrhorn ; 
over the Beich-Pasa to the Lotschenthal, 296, 297. — 
Excursions from Berisal: Wasenhorn, Bettlihorn, and 
Bortelhorn ; to Iselle via Alp Veglia ; Col di Valtendro, 
298. — Schonhorn; Monte Leone. From Simplon to 
Saas ; Rossbodenjoch ; Laqninjoch ; Sirvolten Pass; Si- 
meli Pass ; Gamser Joch ; Fletschhorn, 299. — From Gondo 
to Saas over the Zwischbergen Pass, 300. — From Domo 
d'Ossola over the Antrona Pass to Saaa, and over the 
Antigine Pasa to Mattmark, 301. — From Gravellona to 
Stresa and to Pallanza, 301, 302. 

81 . From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. The Eggishorn . . 302 

Gerenthal ; Piz/.o Rotondo. From Ulrichen to Airolo over 
the Nufenen Pass. Loffelhorn, 303. — Fiesch Glacier; 
Eggishorn, 304. — Excursions from the Eggishorn : Con- 
cordia Hut ; Gr. Aletscbhorn ; Liitschenlucke ; from the 
Eggishorn to the Riederalp and Belalp, 304, 305. — From 
Fiesch over the Albrun Pass to Baceno, or to the Tosa 
Falls; Binnenthal; Ofenhorn, 305. — From Fiesch to 
Baceno over the Geisspfad Pass or the Kriegalp Pass, 
and to Iselle over the Ritter Pass, 305, 306. 

82. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Falls 

of the Tosa. Val Formazza 306 

Basodino. From the Tosa Falls to Airolo over the 
S. Giacomo Pass; to Bignasco over the Bocchetta di Val 
Maggia, 307, 308. — From Andermatten to Cevio over 
the Criner Furka, 308. 

83. The Valleys of the Valais, between Sion and Turtmann 
(Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . 309 



SAVOY AND VALAIS. 245 



i. From Sion through the Val d'Herens to Evolena, 

and over the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Annivlers 309 
Mayens de Sion, 309. — Val d'He'remence. Pic d'Arzinol ; 
Col de la Meina ; Mt. de TEtoile, 310. — Excursions from 
Arolla : Lac Bleu de Lueel ; Mont Collon ; Eveque ; Pigno 
d'AroUa ; Dents de Veisivi; Aig. de la Za; Dent Perroc; 
Dent des Bouquetins, 311. — Cols de Collon, de Za-de-Zan, 
and de Eiedmatten; Pas de Chevres, 311. — Col de Cher- 
montane. Cols de I'Eveque, de Bertol, du Mont Briile, 
and de Valpelline, 312. — Ferpecle ; Alp Bricolla. Cols 
du Grand Cornier, de la Pointe de Bricolla, and d'Herens, 
312, 313. — Col des Bouquetins; Dent Blanche; Grand 
Cornier, 313. — Sasseneire ; Pas de Lona ; Bees de Bos- 
son, 313. — Col de Sorebois, 314. 
li. From Sierre through the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal . 314 
From Sierre to St. Luc ; Illhorn, 314. — Alp de TAUe'e ; 
Alp d'Arpitetta; Constantia Club-hut, Eoc Noir; Pointe 
d^Arpitetta ; Besso ; Pigne de TAUee ; Bouquetin ; Dia- 
blons; Grand Cornier; Zinal Eothhorn, Gabelhorn, 315. 
— Col de TAllee; Col de Couronne; Triftjoch; Col Du- 
rand ; Morning Pass ; Schallijoch, 316. 
iii. St. Luc. Bella Tola. Over the Pass du Boeuf (or 
the Meiden Pass) into the Turtmann Valley, and 
over the Augstbord Pass to the Valley of the Visp. . 316 
Hotel Weisshorn, 317. — Col des Diablons; Pas de la 
Forcletfa. From Gruben to Turtmann, 318. — The 
Schwarzhorn. Jung Pass; Barr Pass; Brunneggjoch ; 
Biesjoch, 318. 

84. From Vlsp to Zermatt, and over the Theodule Pass 

to Chatillon 319 

From Stalden to the Simplon over the Bistenen Pass. 
319. — From Breuil to Pra-Raye over the Col du Val Cour- 
nere ; Chateau des Dames, 32t. — Grand Tournalin, 322. 

85. Zermatt and Environs 322 

Ciorges du Corner; RifVelberg and Gornergrat, 323. — 
Schwarzsee Hotel; Hiirnli ; Slaflelalp. Zmutt Glacier. 
Findelen Glacier, 324, 325. — Mountain excursions from 
Zermatt and the Riffelhaus: Breithorn; Cima di .Taz/.i ; 
Kiflelhorn; Mettelhorn ; Unter-Gabelhorn ; dber-Roth- 
horn ; Strahlhorn ; Rimpflschhorn ; Dom ; Lyskamm ; 
Monte Rosa; Matterhorn; Ober-Gabelhorn ; Zinal-Roth- 
horn ; Weisshorn ; Dent Blanche ; Dent d'Herens, 325- 
327. — Glacier Passes from the Riflel : Schwarzthor ; 
Zwillings-Pass ; Lysjoch ; Felikjoch; SesiaPass; Piode- 
joch; Is'ew and Old Weissthor, 327. — Glacier Passes 
from Zermatt to Zinal, Evolena, Chermontane, Valpel- 
lina, and Valtournanclie, 328. 

86. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over the Monte 
Moro to Saas and Visp 328 

Excursions from Macugnaga: Belvedere; Petrlcilo-Alp; 
Piz'/.o Bianco; Monte Rosa; Weissthor, 329, 330.— Stelli- 
horn ; Schwarzberg-Weissthor ; Adler Pass ; AUalin Pass, 
331. — Fee; Triftalp; Mittaghorn ; Egginerliom ; Allalin- 
horn ; Ulrichshorn; Balfrin; Stellihorn ; Sonnighorn; 
Latelhorn; Weissmies, etc., 332. — Alphubeljoch; Nadel- 
joch; Domjoch; Mischabeljoch; Ried Pass,' 332, 333. 

87. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa . , . 333 



246 Route 70. BELLEGAKDE. From Geneva 



Turlo Pass ; Col delle Loccie. Pile Alp ; Corno Bianco. 
CoUe di Moud and BocchettaMoanda; Col d'Olen ; Gems- 
stein, 334. — Col delle Pisse ; Col di Valdobbia, 335. 
— Excursions from Gressoney : Cortlis ; Lintyhiitte, 
Gnifettihiitte, Sellahiitte. Vincent Pyramid. Lyakamm. 
Castor, 335. — Col della Ranzola; Col de Joux. Monl 
Taille ; Punta Frudiera, 335. — Bettaforca ; Bettliner 
Pass ; Pinter Joch ; Val d'Ayas or Challant; Col des Cimes 
Blanches; Grand' Sometta, 335, 336. 



70. From Geneva via Guloz and Aix-les-Bains to 
Chambery, and back via Annecy. 

Railway to Aix-les-Bains (551/2 M.) in 3V-j hrs. (11 fr. 30, 8 fr. 5, 6fV. 
lOc), to Chambery (64 M.) in 4 hrs. (12 fr. 75, 9 fr. 60, 7fr. 5 c.), to Albert- 
ville (93'/2 M.) in 7 hrs. (18 fr. 70, 14 fr. 10, 10 fr. 35 c); from Aix-les-Bains 
to Annecy (25 M.) in 11/2-2 hrs. (4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 65 c.) ; from Annecy 
to Geneva (371/2 M.) in 21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 30, 5 fr. 50 c., 4 fr.). Diligence be- 
tween Albertville and (28 M.) Annecy daily in 4 hrs. — See also Baedeker's 
Midi de la France, 2nd ed., 1886. 

Geneva, see p. 205. 3 M. Meyrin, 5'/2 M. Satigny ; on the left 
flows the Rhone. Near (81/2 M.) La Plaine we cross the valley of the 
London. 121/2 M. Chancy - Poug ny ; 14'/2 M. Collonges. The Rhone 
here separates the steep slopes of the Mont Vuaehe (3444') from 
the Jura chain. The lofty Fort de I'Ecluse (1387'), to the right, 
guarding the entrance to France , was founded by the Dukes of 
Savoy, extended hy Vauban, destroyed by the Austrians in 1814, 
and rebuilt by the French ten years later. Beyond the short tunnel 
under the fort we pass through the Tunnel du Credo, 21/2 M. long, 
and cross the deep valley of the Valserine by an imposing viaduct, 
275 yds. long and 170' high. 

21 M. Bellegarde (Buffet; Hot. de la Poste); French 'douane'. 

Above the confluence of the Valserine and the Rhone, about 1/2 M. from 
the hotel, is the so-called Perte du Rhone. Fiirmei-ly, when the river 
was low (Nov. to Feb.), it disappeared entirely in a cleft in the rock for 
about 100 paces , but the channel has recently been so much widened 
by bla.sting that the water always remains visible. The water of the 
Rhone is used as a motive power for machinery by the Compagnie 
Hydraulique du Rhone. A conduit 820 yds. in length, and chiefly under 
ground, is carried from the bed of the river above the Perte to the Val- 
serine , into which it falls a little above its influx into the Rhone. A 
new manufacturing town is springing up here, and a railway now runs 
through the valley of the Valserine to Nantua and Bourg. 

From Bellegarde to Bouveret (62i/i M.), railway in 31/4 hrs. Stations : 
Valleiry ; Yiry; 15 M. St. Julien; 20 M. Bosseij-Veyrier . at the N.W. 
base of Mt. Saleve (p. 215). The Arve is then crossed to (2i M.) Annemasse 
(p. 253), the junction for Annecy and Geneva (p. 252), on the high-road 
to Chamonix (p. 253). 28 M. St. Cergues; 33 M. Bons-St. Didier (ascent of 
the Voirons, see p. 253) ; 37 M. Perrignier ; 43 if. Thoiwn (p. 239); 49 M. 
Evian (p. 240); 521/2 M. Lugrin; 56 M. Meillerie; 59V2 M. St. Gingolph; 
621/2 M. Bouverel (p. 240). 

Four tunnels (1121, 917, 493, and 166 yds. in length respect- 
ively). Beyond (28 M.) Pyrimont (with asphalt-mines near it) a 



to Chambery. AIX-LES-BAINS. 70. Route. 247 

handsome viaduct crosses the Vezeronce. 32'/2 M. Seyssel (Ecu de 
France), an old town, on both banks of the Rhone, here crossed by 
a double suspension-bridge. The river, now navigable, flows through 
a broad channel with numerous islands, and the valley expands. 

41 1/2 M. Culoz (774'; Hot. Folliet ; *liaU. Restaurant), at the base 
of the Colombier (5033'), is the junction for Lyons, Macon (Paris), 
and Turin. Carriages generally changed, and a long halt. 

The Mont-Cenis train crosses the Rhone, and at (46 M.) Chin- 
drieux reaches the N. end of the Lac du Bourget (745'), which is 
10 M. long and 3 M. broad. To the right, on a wooded hill 
projecting into the lake, is the old chateau of Chdtillon. The train 
skirts the rocky E. bank, passing through four tunnels. To the right 
a pleasing view of the lake, the monastery of Haute-Combe, the 
chateau of Bourdeau, and the Dent du Chat (p. 248). 

55^/2 M. Aiz-les-BainS. — ^'Grand Hotel d'Aix, Avenue de la 
Gare; Gkands Hotels de l'Europe , de l'Univers , *du Nord , and 
' Hot. Venat in the Rue du Casino ; Grand Hotel de la Galerie, 
between the Rue du Casino and the Place Centrale; Splendide Hotel, 
finely situated above the Jardin Public. All these are of the first 
class, with corresponding charges: R. , L. , & A. 5-6, B. IV2, lunch 
3, D. 5 fr. Slightly less e.xpensive: Gr. Hot. des Bergues, Avenue 
de la Oare; Gr. Hot. du Globe, Hot. des Bains, Rue du Casino; Bead- 
site, above the Jardin Public ; 'Chateau-Durieux, BouI. des Cotes; 'Hot. 
GuiLLAND ET DE LA PosTE, Place Ceutrale; Hot. Laplace, Hot. de Ge- 
neve. Rue du Casino; Hot. de l'Etablissement Thermal, by the Baths ; 
Hot. Damesin & Continental, Rue de Chambdry; Hot. de la Poste, 
Germain, Bossdt, Garin , dd Paec, etc. — Pemions and Maisons Meu- 
hlies also abound. 

Caf£s-Restaurants. Dardel, Place Centrale; Gr. Cafi de la Gave, etc. 

Cab, per drive, 1-2 pers., 1 fr.. 3-4 pers. 2 fr. ; per hour with one 
horse 3, with two horses 4 fr. — Voituees Pcbliques for excursions (to 
Marlioz, Port Puer, etc.), Place Centrale. 

Casinos. Cercle , Rue du Casino, adm. 3 fr. ; season-ticket 40, for 
2 pers. 65 fr. — Villa des Fleurs, Avenue de la Gare, similar. 

English Church Service during the season. 

Aix-les-Bains (S60'; pop. 4741), the Roman Aquae Allobrogum, 
or Aquae Gratianae, a famous watering-place, picturesquely situated, 
is visited annually by upwards of 12,000 patients. It possesses warm 
(113°) sulphur-springs, used for drinking and for baths. The large 
Etablissement Thermal, erected in 1854, is well fitted up. In front 
of it rises the Arch of Campanus, a monument erected in the 3rd 
or 4th cent. A. D., in the form of a triumphal arch, in memory of 
T. Pomp. Campanus and his family. The eight niches contain the 
urns of the persons whose names are recorded on the monument. 
The well-preserved Chateau (14th cent.), now \he Hotel de Ville, 
contains a Museum of antiquities, chiefly from the lake-dwellings 
of the Lac du Bourget, and other curiosities (open daily 9-12 and 
2-5; 5 c). The rallying-points of visitors are the sumptuous Cercle 
or Casino, with its handsome saloons, and the Villa des Fleurs (see 
above), with its pleasant garden , where concerts are frequently 
given. Queen Victoria resided at the Villa Mottet during her visit 
to Aix in April, 1885. — Omnibuses run from the Place Centrale 



248 Route 70. AIX-LES-BAINS. From Geneva 

every 20 min. to (1 M.) Mnrlioz (in lOmin.; there and back 60c.), 
which possesses cold sulphur-springs (with inhaling-chamber), a 
chateau, and a park (restaurant). 

Excursions. Pleasant shady walks in the Pare, the Promenade du 
Qigot , and the Avenue Marie. — The Lac du Bourget (p. 247) may 
be reached either by the 'Route du Lac', leading to the (2 M.) Port de 
Puer (steamboat-pierj, or by the Avenue de Cornin, leading to the (I'/t M.) 
Port de Cornin. On the bank of the lake extends the beautiful wooded 
hill of Tresserve, 3 M. in length, with shady walks and fine views. At 
the N. end of the hill rises the Maison du Diahle (villa and garden), and 
on the W. side, on the bank of the lake, is the chateau of Bonport. 

* Hautecombe, a Cistercian monastery on the N.W. bank of the lake, 
at the foot of the Mont du Chat, ia another interesting point. (Steamboat 
thither several times a week; trip round the lake on Sundays, allowing 
an hour at Hantecombe. Boat with two rowers to Hautecombe and back, 
with one hour's stay, 4 fr. ; each hour more V/-> fr. ; to Bourdeau 5 fr. ; 
a bargain should be made beforehand.) The abbey, which was the burial- 
place of the Princes of Savoy until 1731, when the Superga near Turin 
was chosen for that purpose, was destroyed during the French Revolution, 
and handsomely rebuilt in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of Sardinia. The 
church contains the monuments of Amadeus V., VI., VII., Humbert III., 
Louis I., Baron de Vaud, Jeanne de Montfort, Count Haymon, Boniface of 
Savoy (Archbishop of Canterbury), the splendid mausoleum of Peter of Savoy, 
Anna of Zahringen, etc. The view from the neighbouring tower of P/iare 
de Ges-iens has been described by Rousseau. About 3/4 M. from the mon- 
astery is the intermittent Fontaine des Mevveilles. — On the site of the old 
Roman road a good high-road crosses the Mont du Chat. We combine a 
visit to the monastery with a survey of the scenery by taking a boat from 
Aix to Hautecombe, whence it should be sent on to the chateau of Bour- 
deau, at the S. end of the road over the Mont du Chat; after visiting the 
monastery and the intermittent spring , we descend by a footpath to the 
Mont du Chat road, which leads us to Bourdeau, and thence we return by 
boat to Aix. — Farther to the S., at the influx of the Leisse, lies the vil- 
lage of Le Bourget, with a ruined castle and a church in the transitional 
style, the choir of which contains fine basreliefs of the 13th cent. — 
Ascent thence of the Dent du Chat (5304'), 4 hrs., by a good bridle-path; 
splendid view of the Alps, including Mont Blanc. 

To the N. of Aix, on the Geneva road, lies (I'/z M.) St. Simon, with 
a chalybeate spring; '/■! hr. thence, in a romantic gorge, are the Cascades 
de Grisy (adm. 50 c). From St. Simon a good road leads to the N.E. 
through the picturesque D^fil4 des Combes to the (S^/z M.) Moulin de 
Prime, and thence by Cusy to the (71/2 M.) Grolte de Bange with its sub- 
terranean lake (a drive from Aix of 5'/2 hrs., there and back; lights for 
the grotto must be brought). — To the E. of Aix a pleasant walk by (^4 hr.) 
Mouxy and the (IV4 hr.) Rocher de St. Victor with a chapel , to the 
(IV2 hr., 3'/2 hrs. from Aix) Montagne de la Cluse , commanding a beau- 
tiful view. — To the S.E. (20 min.) the Rocher du Roi, once a Roman 
quarry, with a fine view. 

From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy, 25 M., a branch-line (H/2 hr.). The 
train runs at first to the N. through the valley of the Si4roz, which has 
worn a deep channel for itself, called the Gorges du Sii'roz (where a small 
steamboat plies), i^lz 31. Gresy-sur-Aix, with a ruined castle and a pretty 
waterfall (see above). 7'|2 M. Athens. Through an opening to the right 
appear the Semnoz and the Tournette (p. 251). lO'/j M. Bloye. At (13 M.) 
Rumilly (1095'; Paste; Restaur. Ducrel), a little town of Roman origin, we 
cross the Chiron. The train turns to the E. and enters the pretty valley 
of the Fier. 17 M. Marcellaz-Hauteville. We now traverse the vrild and 
romantic Difili du Fier (twelve bridges and two short tunnels). On the 
left, near the end of the gorge, rises the chateau of Montrottier . of the 
14-I6th centuries. 2O1/2 BI. Lovagny (restaur, at the station and at the 
entrance to the porge) ; ','2 M. to the E. are the Gorges du Fier, a grand 
ravine 275 yds. long, enclosed by limestone rocks nearly 300' high, ren- 



to Chambery. CHAMBERY. 70. Route. 249 

dered accessible by a wooden gallery (1 fr.). Beyond Lovagny we obtain 
a fine view, to the right, of the Parmelan, the Semnoz , and the Tour- 
nette. Tunnel of 1270 yds.; then a bridge across the Fier. 25 M. Annecp, 
see p. 251. 

As the train proceeds, the lake is concealed by the wooded hill 
of Tresserve (p. 248). Fine view to the right. 

58 M. Viviers. To the left rises the Dent du Nivolet (5113'). 

64 M. Chambery (883'; pop. 19,622; *H6t. de France, Quai 
Nezin, near the Boulevards; * Hot. de iEurope, Rue d'ltalie, a 
good way from the station ; Hot. des Princes, Rue de Boigne ; Hot. 
de la Paix, opposite the station), the capital of Savoy, a handsome 
looking town, lies on the rapid Leisse. On the promenade between 
the railway and the town rises a large Fountain-Monument, adorned 
with life-size elephants, in memory of General de Boigne (d. 1830) 
who bequeathed to Chambery, his native town, a fortune of 15 mil- 
lion fr. amassed in the East Indies. Of the ancient and loftily sit- 
uated Chateau of the counts and dukes of Savoy, erected in 1232, 
now restored and occupied by the Prefecture, the square tower and 
part of the fagade belong to the original building. It contains small 
archseological and natural history collections. The chapel ('Sainte 
Chapelle') has an elegant late-Gothic choir. At the back of the 
chateau is the Grand Jardin (reached by going to the left round 
the building, through the gate, and up the avenue), a public pro- 
menade with a terrace commanding a fine view. The Theatre is 
richly decorated in the interior. Near it is the archiepiscopal Ca- 
thedral, a Gothic edifice (14th and 15th cent.). The pleasing new 
Hotel- de-Ville possesses a small picture-gallery. In front of the 
Palais de Justice rises a bronze statue of Ant. Favre (d. 1624), a 
famous jurist, erected in 1864. 

Walks. To the N., above the town (10 min.), rise the Rochers de 
Lemenc, with a church in which Gen. de Boigne and Mme. de Warens, 
Rousseau's friend, are interred. Charming view. — To Buisson - Bond 
(20 min.), a pleasant park; the Cascades de Jacob (','2 hr.); the chapel 
of St. Satuvnin (l'/4 hr.). — Bout du Monde (1 hr.), a rocky gorge at 
the base of the Dent du Nivolet, with a fine waterfall of the Doria. — 
Les Chwmettes ('/z hr. ; adm. 1/2 fr.), a country-house once occupied by 
Rousseau and BIme. de Warens (1736). — Challes (1', 4 hr. ; omnibus from 
stat. Chambe'ry V2 br.), with a sulphur-spring, a bath-house, and an old 
chateau converted into a hotel and pension (good, but dear). 

The ascent of the Dent du Nivolet (5113'; 4V2-5 hrs.) is attractive and 
free from difficulty. Road for about 8 M. ; then a bridle-path nearly to 
the top. Magnificent view. 

Beyond Chambery we traverse a picturesque district, passing 
the ruins of Batie and Chignin. The precipitous Mont Granier 
(6358') on the right owes its peculiar form to a landslip in 1248, 
which buried sixteen villages. 70 M. Chignin-les-Marches. 72 M. 
Montmelian (921'; Rail. Restaurant), junction for Grenoble. The 
castle, on a hill, of which a few fragments only are left, long 
served as a bulwark of Savoy against the French, but was destroyed 
by Louis XIV. in 1705. Pleasing survey of the valley of the 
/sere, which the train now ascends. 74Y2 M, Cruet; 79 M. St. 



250 Route 70. UGINE. From Chambery 

Pierre d'Albigny, J unction of tbc Mt. Cenis Railway; the small 
town lies l'/2 M. to the N. On a projecting crag to the left stands 
the ruined castle of Miolans, once a state-prison of Savoy, destroyed 
during the French Revolution. 

The Mont-Cenis Railway quits the Isere here and ascends to the right 
in the Maurienne Valley, watered by the Arc. Stations C/iamousset, Aigue- 
belle, Epierre, La Chambre, St. Jean-de-Mavrienne. Si. Michel, La Praz, and 
(46 M.) Modune. Then through the great Mont-Cenis Tunnel (_Vf2 M. long) 
to Bardonneche and Turin (see Baedeker's JV. Italy). 

The railway to Albertville keeps on the right bank of the Isere. 
85 M. Gresy-sur-Isere, with Roman antiquities. On the left, Mon- 
tailleur , with an old castle. On the opposite bank of the Isere, 
Ste. Helene-des-MiUieres , with salt springs. 89 M. Frontenex, 
whence a road leads to the N. over the Col de Tamie (2980') to 
(11 M.) Faverges (p. 251). 

931/2 M. Albertville (1181'; pop. 5086; Hot. Million, in the 
market, R. 31/2) D. 3'/2 fr. ; Hot. des Balances, Grande Rue), a 
pleasant town, which received its present name in 1835 in honour 
of King Charles Albert of Sardinia, consists of two parts separated 
by the Arly: on the right bank L'Hopital, on the left the pictur- 
esque little old town of Conflans, with its pinnacled walls, over- 
grown with vegetation. 

Fkom Albertville to Mo6tiers-en-Tarentaise , 17 M., diligence 
3 times daily in 3 hrs. (81/2 fr. ; railway in course of construction). The 
road leads through the Isere Valley, which gradually narrows and be- 
comes grander as we ascend , by Tours and Cevins, at the N.E. base of 
the Tournetle (8050'), to (IO1/2 M.) Feissons-soiis-Briangon, with the ruined 
castle of Brianron; then (12 M.) Noire Dame de Briani;on, and by Aigue- 
blanche to (17 M.) Moutiers (1575' ; 1969 inh. ; Couronne; EH. Bartholi), 
the ancient capital of the Tarenlaise, the seat of a bishop, and named 
after a monastery founded here in the 5th century. The treasury of the 
cathedral is worth seeing. A little to the S., in the pretty valley of the 
Doron , are the baths of (^4 M.) Salins and (3i/2 M.) Brides-les-Bains. — 
A road leads to the E. of Moutiers (diligence twice daily) through the 
picturesque valley of the Isere to (17 M.) Bourg-Sl. Maurice (p. 275). 

From Albertville to Beaufort, 12'/2 M. (diligence daily in 3 hrs. ; 
2'/2 fr.), by a road through the picturesque Doron Valley. The little town 
of Beaufort (2625'; Cfteval Blanc; Montblanc), prettily situated, is com- 
manded by the chateau of La Salle. Thence through the Giite Valley to 
the Col dii Bonho/nme and over the Col des Fours to Mottets, 9-10 hrs., 
with guide (IB fr.; comp. 2?2). — From Beaufort over the Col Joli to 
CoNTAiMiNEs, 8 hrs., with guide, interesting on the whole. Carriage-road 
through the Dorine Valley (or Vallie de Haule- Luce) , by Haute-Luce to 
(3 hrs.) Belleville, thence bridle-path over the Col Joli, lying to the S. 
of Mont Joli (p. 271), with a view of Mont Blanc, to (5 hrs.) Contamines 
(p. 271). 

The Road to Annecy (28 M.) ascends to the N. , on the right 
bank of the Arly. To the left, on a steep hill, stands the church of 
Pallud; on the right the Doron issues from the Vallee de Beaufort 
(see above). Near (5 M.) TJgine (1510'; Soleil d'Or), a small town 
(3000 inliab.) on the hill, the road quits the valley of the Arly, 
and enters that of the Chaise to the left. 

From Ugine to Sallanches or St. Gervais (8-9 hrs.). Road through 
the picturesque valley of the Arly to (8 M.) Flumet (3008'; 1161. des Balan- 
ces), a village at the InQu.x of the Arondine into the Arly. (Over the Col 



to Geneva. ANNECY. 70. Route. 251 

des Aravis to S(. Jean-de-Sixl^ see p. 252.) On a rock stands the ruined 
castle of the ancient barons of Faucigny. (Travellers in the reverse di- 
rection have to undergo custom-house formalities here.) Then (7 M.) Mi- 
give (3690'; Soleil), on the water-shed between the Isere and the Arve, 
shortly heyond which, as we descend, we enjoy a superb view: opposite us 
towers the Aiguille de Varens (8831'), to the left lies the valley of the Arve 
as far as Magland (p. 254) ; to the right rises the entire Blont Blanc chain, with 
its glaciers and the summit. At (3 M.) Comhloux the road divides , the 
left branch leading to (3V4 M.) Sallanclies , and the right to (4V2 M.) SI. 
Gervai$(p. 254). 

At Ugine the culture of the vine begins on the lower slopes 
facing the S. Beyond Marlens the road quits the valley of the Chaise, 
and crosses the hardly perceptible watershed of the Eau Morte, which 
we now follow. 71/2 M. Faverges (1699' ; *H6t. de Geneve), with 
its extensive old castle. (To Frontenex over the Col de Tamie, see 
p. 250.) "VVe next reach (6 M.) Bout du Lac, a hamlet at the S. 
end of the Lac d'Annecy (1463'; 9 M. long), on which a steamer 
plies three times daily to Annecy in I'/o hr. : a pleasant trip. To 
the right rise the rocky pinnacles of the Tournette (p. 252). 
On a promontory extending far into the lake, to the left, is the 
prettily situated (3 M.) Chateau Duingt (1476'). On the opposite 
bank lie Talloires , the birthplace of BerthoUet (see below) , and 
Menthon, with sulphur-springs and an old chateau in which St. 
Bernard was born (p. 288). To the left lies Sevrier, at the foot of 
the long Semnoz (see below). "We next reach (61/2 M.) — 

28 M. Annecy (1476'; pop. 11,334; Gr.-E6t. Verdun, near 
the lake, dear; *Gr.-H6t. d'Angleterre; Aigle), a picturesque, old- 
fashioned town, the capital of the department of Haute-Savoie, with 
linen-manufactories. In the 12th cent, it was the capital of the 
Duchy of Genevois, and was named Anneciacum Novum, to distin- 
guish it from Anneciacum Vetus, which lay a little to the N.E., on 
the slope of a hill, where numerous Roman relics have been found. 
The lofty old Chateau is now a barrack. Gothic Cathedral, with a 
modern tower, and an ancient episcopal Palace. In the chapel of 
the monastery De la Visitation repose St. Francis de Sales (d. 1622) 
and St. Johanna of Chantal (d. 1641). The Promenade du Pdquier 
on the lake affords a pleasant walk and line view. In the middle 
of it rises the Prefecture, in front of which stands a monument to 
the engineer Sommeiller, one of the constructors of the Mout-Cenis 
Tunnel. On the other side of the canal issuing from the lake lies 
the Jardin Public, with shady avenues, adorned with a bronze sta- 
tue of the famous chemist BerthoUet (d. 1822), by Marochetti. In 
the vicinity is t\\Q H6tel-de-Ville, containing a small museum, with 
a handsome fountain in front of it. Annecy, with its beautiful en- 
virons, is recommended as a pleasant resting-place. 

Excursions. The Semnoz (5590'), to the S. of Annecy, a fine point, 
easy (5 hrs.). We take the Albertville road on the S. bank of the lake 
to (3 51.) Sevrier, and ascend by a road to the right to the (T'/i M.) Col 
de Leschanx (3028'); bridle-path thence to the top in 1 hr. {Hdt. CrH du 
C/idtillon; mountain-railway projected). Beautiful view. — The Parmelan 
(6018'), to the N.E. of Annecy, is chielly interesting on account of its gro- 



252 Route 70. LA ROCHE. 

tesque rock -formations. Road by Sur-les-Bois and IHngy St. Clair to 
(9 M. -, carr. in 2V'.! lirs., 15 fr.) La Blonniere; thence (guide not necessary 
for experts) by the Chalet Chapnis and the Grand Montoir to the top in 
21/2-3 hrs. (admirable panorama). — Ascent of the '' Tournette (7733), the 
iine mountain to the S.E. of Annecy, attractive but diflicult (only for ex- 
perts; guide 10 fr.). Road to (9 M.) Thdnes (see below), thence with 
guide , by Belchamp and the Chalets du Eosairy in 5'/2 hrs. to the top. 
Superb view, especially of the Mont Blanc group. 

Railway to Aix-les-Bains, see p. 248. Near Lovagny, [the first station 
(11 min.), are the interesting "Gorges du Fier (p. 248). 

Fkom Annecy via Grand Boenand to Scioxzier, 12 hrs., attractive. 
A carriage road runs by Veyrier and Alex to (4 hrs.) Thdnes (2054'; H8t. 
Ciiillery), a little town prettily situated at the conlluenco of the Noiu and 
the Fier (ascent of the Tournette, see above). Thence it ascends the valley 
of the Norn to the E. , passing Les VUlardt to (P/i hr.) St. Jean de Sixt 
(3319 5 to Sallanches, see below), beyond which it divides. The left 
branch runs by Petit- Bornand to (4V'2 hrs.) Bonneville (p. 253); the right 
leads through ('/■.> hr.) Grand Bornand (3053'; Inn)., a considerable village 
on the Borne, to (!' •.> hr.) Venay. From Venay a bridle-path ascends over 
the Col des Annes (5608') to (2 hrs.) Reposoir or Pralong (Inn) , where it 
joins the carriage-road leading through the picturesque Valley of Reposoir 
to (2 hrs.) Scionzier (p. 254). — From Annect over the Col ue.s Aravis 
TO Sallanches, 15 hrs. , attractive. To (53/4 hrs.) St. Jean de Sixt , see 
above. Thence a carriage-road leads to the S.E. in the valley of the Nom 
to La Clusaz and to the (2V2 hrs.) Col des Aravis (4913), which commands 
a fine view of Mont Blanc. From the Col a bridle-path descends to ('/< 
hr.) La Giettaz (3640'; Hot. des Aravis), whence another carriage-road 
leads to (2 hrs.) Flumet, on the road from Ugine (p. 250) to (43/4 hrs.) 
Sallanches or St. Gerrais. A shorter route is offered by a foot-path lead- 
ing from La Giettaz over the Col Jaillet direct to (4 hrs.) Sallanches. 

The Railway from Annecy to Annemasse traverses a tunnel, 
crosses the Fier, and turns to the N. into the valley of the Filliere. 
On the right rises the Parmelan (p. 251). 3 M. Pringy-la- 
Caille ; 6 M. St. Martin- Charvonnex ; 10 M. Oroisy-le-Plot. At 
(141/2 M.) Evires (2592'; Buffet) heyond another tunnel and a 
lofty viaduct, the line reaches its highest point. Travellers in the 
opposite direction are subjected to the formalities of the custom- 
house here, as that part of the Department of Haute-Savoie which 
adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French duties (p. 253). Two 
tunnels, the first 1320 yds. long. 

The train now descends, making a long bend to the E., and 
enters the valley of the Arve, of which it affords a beautiful survey. 
Beyond (20 M.) St. Laurent is a viaduct 157' high. — 23V2 M. 
La Roche-sur-Foron (1804'; Croix Blanche}, a village on theForon, 
a tributary of the Arve. (To Bonneville, see p. 253.) To the left 
appear the Saleves (p. 215). — 26 M. Chevrier; 28 M. Reignier. 
— Then a handsome viaduct over the Viaison. Beyond (311/2 M-) 
Monnetier-Mornex (p. 215) the line joins the Bellegarde and Bou- 
veret Railway (p. 246), and crosses the Arve 3.t Etrembieres. 331/2 M. 
Annemasse (p. 253) , where carriages are usually changed. The 
railway then crosses the Foron, here the boundary between France 
and Switzerland, to (36 M.) Chene-Bourg (p. 253). 

371/2 M. Geneva (Eaux-Vives Station, see p. 205; tramway to 
the Place du Molard and the Western Station, see p. 206). 



i2 -tit V y "i.®^ 














^5 











253 
71. From Geneva to Chamonix. 

i. Vi&. Sallanches. 

531/2 M. Diligence starting at 7 a. m. (three diflerent vehicles, from 
Grand-Quai 10, 26, and 28) in 8V2 hrs., incl. halt of 3/4 hr. for dinner at 
Sallanches, returning in 7V2 hrs ('banquette' 21, there and back 36 fr.). 
The extra carriages used when the dilifience is full take 2 hrs. longer. 
It is advisable to secure seats in advance (chief ofCice, Grand Quai 10), and 
before paying the fare, the traveller should see the seat he is to occupy. 
On the return journey from Chamonix to Geneva, travellers should furnish 
themselves with provisions, as no halt for dinner is made. 

Carriages (p. 207). For a carriage and pair with four seats the fare 
usually demanded is 100 fr. (there and back in 3 days , 150 fr.) , but by 
applying to the carriage-owner in person the traveller may generally obtain 
one for 70-80 fr. 

Geneva, see p. 205. The road to Annemasse (steam-tramway, 
see p. 207) passes a succession of villas and well-kept gardens ex- 
tending to the large village of (21/4 M.) Chine (1384'). The Foron 
separates Geneva from Savoy. At (27* M.) Annemasse (1427'; 
Hotel de la Gave, Hotel de la Paix, at the station; National, in the 
village), the first French village, a station on the Geneva and Bou- 
veret line (p. 246), and junction for Bellegarde (p. 246) and Annecy 
(p. 252) , luggage is not examined , as that part of Savoy which 
adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French customs. To the right 
rises the chateau oi Etremb teres, with its four towers, at the base 
of the Petit-Saleve , and beyond it lies Mornex (p. 216). We ap- 
proach the Arve, and cross the Menoge by a handsome bridge. 8 M. 
Arthaz. 

The scenery improves. In the background rises the pyramidal 
Mole (6130'). Beyond (5 M.) Nangy, on a pine-clad knoll to the 
right stands the Chateau de Pierre. Near (21/2 M.) Contamines- 
sur-Arve lies the old chateau of Villy, on the hill-side to the left ; 
beyond the village, on a lofty rock, stands the ruined castle of 
Faucigny. Then (5 M.) — 

163/4 M. Bonneville (1457'; pop. 2271; Couronne; Balance'), 
a little town of some importance, picturesquely situated among vine- 
clad-hills, commanded by the rugged limestone rocks of the Pointe 
d'Andey (6165') on the right, and the slopes of the Mole (p. 256) 
on the left. 

A road leads from Bonneville to the W. to (5 M.) La Roche (p. 252). 
Another to the E. (diligence twice daily) by (5 M.) Marignier (where the 
Giffre is crossed) and (4 M.) Chatillon to (3 M.) Taninges, on the road from 
Geneva and Annemasse to Sixt (p. 256). 

A handsome bridge crosses the Arve, on this side of which, to 
the right, stands a monument to the Savoyards who fell in the cam- 
paign of 1870-71. On the opposite bank rises a monument, 73' 
high, to King Charles Felix of Sardinia. From the bridge we sud- 
denly obtain a superb view of Mont Blanc , whose dazzling peaks 
towering majestically at the head of the valley seem to annihilate 
the intervening distance of nearly 30 M. The Aiguille du Goilter 
appears first; then, from right to left, the Dome du Gouter, Mont 



2^4 Route 71. .SALLANCIIES. From Geneva 

Blanc itself, the Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Aiguille 
du Midi, and the Aiguille Verte. The almost perfectly straight road 
traverses flat meadowland, which is frequently inundated, and then 
enters a broad, fertile valley bounded by lofty mountains. Opposite 
(41/4 M.) Vougy the Giffre falls into the Arve. 88/4 M. Scionzier 
(Buffet) lies at the entrance to the wild Reposoir Valley. (From 
Scionzier to Annecy via Grand Bornand, see p. 252.) On the hill 
to the left, on the road to Taninges (p. 256), is the castle of Chd- 
tillon. We now cross the Arve to (I74 M.) — 

26 M. Cluses (1590'; Hotel Revoz), a small town, chiefly in- 
habited by watchmakers. To the left, near the entrance, an Ecole 
d'Horlogerie. Beyond (3 M.) Balme (1624'), in the bluish-yellow 
limestone precipice to the left, 750' above the road , is seen the 
entrance to the Grotte de Balme, a stalactite-grotto hardly worth vi- 
siting (2 hrs. there and back; 3 fr. each pers.). 

Near (1 72 M.) Magland is a spring by the road-side, on the left, 
supposed by Saussure to descend from the small Lac de Flaine 
(4695') on the hill above. On the right, farther on, rise the Polnte 
d'Areu (8097') and the Pointe Percee (9025'; see below), and on the 
left, the bold precipices of the Aiguilles de Varens (8163'). The con- 
spicuous Cascade d'Arpenaz is imposing after rain. 

The valley expands. The road crosses the Arve , and leads 
straight on through the broad valley, at first through wood , and 
affording a continuous view of the Mont Blanc group. 

3672 M. Sallanches (1788'; Hot. des Messageries ; Bellevue; 
Mont Blanc^, where the diligences stop for dinner. 

The Pointe Percee (9025') , commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc, 
may be ascended from this point over the Chalet des Fours in b^/-> hrs. 
(no difliculty for experts). — Route from Sallanches by Flumet to Alberl- 
ville, see p. 250; to Annecp over the Col des Aravis, see p. 252, 

The road next leads by Domancy to (4172 M.) Le Fayet (I860' ; 
Hot. de laPaix; Hot. -Pens. Salomon, etc), by the bridge over 
the Bon-Nant. 

St. Gervais-les-Bains (2066'; Hdlel), a watering-place with sulphur- 
springs, lies in the wooded ravine of Montjoie, V2 M. from the Chamonix 
road, on the Bon-Nant ('Nant' being the name applied to all mountain- 
streams in Savoy), which forms a waterfall at the back of the baths 
('■Ca.'fcade de Or('^jm'J. ■ — A path leads in 20 min. from the baths to the 
Village of St. Gervais (265'7'; "Hotel du Mont Jolt; 'Montblanc; Oeneve; 
"des Etrangers, and several pensions), on the road to Contamines (p. 271), 
a health-resort, prettily situated. (The village is 2 M. from Le Fayet by 
the carriage-road.) — The Mont Joli (S238') may be ascended without difli- 
culty from this point in 5 hrs. The descent may be made by St. Kicolas 
de Veroce (in all 8 hrs.; comp. p. 271). 

Pedestrians may quit the diligence at Le Fayet and walk over the 
Col de la Forclaz (5105'), between the THe-Noire (5800'; not to be con- 
founded with the Tete-Noire between Chamonix and Martigny) and the 
Prarion (6460'), direct to Le Fouilly and Les Ilouches in 5-6 hrs. (guide de- 
sirable, 6 fr.). A longer but more interesting route (6-7 hrs.) is over the 
Col de Voza (p. 270). 

From Le Fayet a road crosses the Arve to Chede and Servoz 
(see below). The road to Chamonix on the left bank of the Arve 



to Chamonix. PRALAIRE. 7U Route. 255 

ascends gradually, with the torrent almost immediately below it, 
passes through a cutting and enters the wooded valley of (3^/4 M.) 
Le Chatelard (tavern). Through the opening of the valley appear 
the Dome du Gouter (p. 264) and the jagged Aiguille du Midi 
(12,610'). Beyond the inn a short tunnel; the road then returns 
to the Arve for a short distance. 

A road diverges here to the left and crosses the Arve to ('/•-' M.) iSe)'- 
voz (Hotel Fruger), whence we may visit (in 1 hr., there and back) the 
'Gorges de la Diosaz (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine, through which the 
Diosciz, a torrent rising on the Buet, dashes in fine cascades. Easy access 
to the gorge (rustic inn at the entrance) is afforded by a gallery, Vz M. 
long, attached to the rocks. Visitors should penetrate as far as the Gorge 
de Soufflet, the most imposing part, with triple waterfall (adm. 1 fr.). 

47 M. Les Montees is an inn by the Pont Pelissier, over which 
the old road from Servoz comes to join ours. About '/o M. farther 
on, the old road ascends to the right to Le FouiUy and Les Houches 
(p. 270), while the new road traverses the wild ravine of the Arve, 
crossing the stream by the *Pont de Marie ( line view of the gorge) and 
again higher up. The glaciers now gradually become visible, butowing 
to the vastness of the mountains in which they are framed it is im- 
possible at first to realise their extent. The first are the Glaciers de 
Griaz and de Taconay ; then the Glacier des Bossons (p. 262) near 
the village of that name, which, as it extends farthest into the valley, 
is apparently the largest. A little above it the road crosses the Arve 
for the last time by the Pont de Perralotaz , and 1 M. beyond it 
reaches — 

531/2 M. Chamonix, see p. 257. 

ii. Via, Sixt. 

Omnibus daily from Geneva to Sixt (40 M.), in 7 hrs. (5 fr. ; starting 
from the Rue de Rive 13). From Sixt to Chamonix, bridlepath (10-11 hrs.) 
via the Col d'Anterne and Col du Brevent (guide, there and back 18 fr., 
unnecessary in good weather), a very attractive expedition with splendid 
views of Mont Blanc. Provisions should be carried, as nothing except 
milk is to be obtained on the way. 

From Geneva to (41/2 M.) Annemasse , see p. 253. At the N. 
end of Annemasse the road turns to the E. (right), leaving the hill 
of Montheux to the left, and skirts the foot of the Voirons to (8 M.) 
La Bergue. 

The Pralaire (4630'; comp. p. 216), the S. peak of the Voirons, may 
be ascended via Les Gets in l'/4 hr. from Lucinges, which lies 2 M. to the 
N^.E. of La Bergue. Fine view from the summit. 

9 M. Bonne, a market-village, formerly fortified, on the Menoge. 
— 11 M. Pont de FiUinges (1785'; inn). The road now quits the 
Menoge, at a point 41/0 M. to the S. oi Bo'ege, whence starts the 
most convenient route to the £6 M.) Voirons, ascends the valley of 
the Foron to the right, and soon after surmounting the watershed 
between the Menoge and Giffre (2065'), passes (15 M.) Ville-en- 
Sallaz, situate<l to the left. Thence it descends to the right, be- 
tween the Pointe des Brasses (4940') and the Mole (6130'), to — 



250 Route 71. SIXT. From Geneva 

171/2 M. St. Jeoire (1925'; Couronne'), a market-village of 1750 
iiihal)., with the chateau of Flechere and a statue of SommeiUer, one 
of the engineers of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. 

The Hole (6130'). which commands a fine view of the valley of the 
Arve and of Slont Blanc, may he ascended in 4'/2 hrs. from St. Jeoire, 
via the hamlet of Moutrenaz and the chalets of Pitiget, Char d^Amont, Char 
d^Aval, and Ecutieux. Riding is practicable to within 1 hr. of the summit. 

The road now ascends a narrow gorge, which it quits for the 
valley of the Giffre, to the left. 21 M. Mieussy (2225'; inns), at the 
W. base of the Pointe de Marcelly (7105'), which may be ascended 
in 5 hrs. (with guide). In front rise the Buet and Mont Blanc. 
The road rounds the conical Roc de Suets to — 

26 M. Taninges (2100'; Lion d'Or; Balances), a busy little 
town of 2253 inhab., with a College in an old abbey. The road to 
Bonneville and Cluses via Chatillon (see p. 254) diverges here to 
the right. 

The Pointe de Harcelly (7105') may be ascended hence in 41/2 hrs. by 
a steep path via Les Pontets and the chalets of Grand Planay. — A road 
leads M.K. from Taninges, viet Les Oels (3865'), to (13V2 M.) St. Jean d^Aulpk 
(p. 339) in the valley of the Drance. 

We proceed straight on through the valley of the Giffre to — 
35 M. Samoens (2490'; Croix d'Or; Hotel du Commerce, un- 
pretending), a little town of 2540 inhab., lying at the foot of Mont 
Crion (7380'). Fine view from the little chapel above the church 
(10 min.). 

From Samoens to (61/2 hrs.) Clwmpiry in the Val d'Uliez, over the Col 
de la Gol'ese and the Col de Cou.r, see p. 242. — From Samoens two passes 
lead to the N.: to the left the Col de Jouplane (5635'); to the right the 
Col de la Golise (5480") to (4 hrs.) Morzine (p. 239). 

Beyond Samoens, on the right (S.) side of tlie valley, the Cas- 
cade du Nant d'Ant falls from a height of 690'. Bending to the S., 
the road enters a ravine in which the Giffre forms a fall , 160' in 
height. As the valley expands we see in front of us the precipices 
of the Buet, to our right the Pointe de Salles, and the Pointe des 
Places, and to our left the Pointe de Tanneverge (see below). 

40 M. Sixt or L'Abhaye de Sixt (2480' ; Hot.-Pens. du Fer lI 
Cheval, in an old monastery, unpretending, R. & L. 3, B. I'Aj, 
D. 3 fr.). 

Environs. In spring, when the brooks are swollen by the melting 
snow, the neighbourhood of Sixt abounds in fine waterfalls, there being 
no fewer than thirty in the upper part of the valley alone , called from 
its shape Vallee du Fer a Cheval. In summer and autumn, however, the 
number dwindles to five or six. An attractive excursion may be made 
through the debris of a landslip of 1602, to the Fond de la Combe, at the 
head of the valley, with a waterfall. 

From Sixt over the Col de Sagerou (7917') to Champe'ry (9 hrs., with 
guide, difficult), see p. 242. — The Poiqte de Tanneverge (9780'), by the 
Col de Tanneverge, in 9 hrs., is a diflicult ascent, but commands a splen- 
did view. — The Pointe Pelouse (8118'), ascended via the Lac de Gers in 
6 hrs., presents no difficulty; line view of Mont Blanc. The descent may 
be made by the Disert de Plate and the Escaliers de Plat^ to St. Gervais 
(p. 254), by a dizzy path, recalling the Gemmi. 



to Chamonix. 



CHA.MONIX. 72. Route. 257 



From Sixt to Chamonix via the Bdet, 13-14 hrs., fatiguing but inter- 
esting (guide necessary, 23 fr. incl. return). To the C/<aleis des Fonds, see 
below. Thence the route leads to the left to the (2V2 hrs.) Col Lichaud 
or des Fonds (7325'), and ascends over loose stones and snow to the top 
of the 'Buet (10,M)'), which commands a magnificent view of the Mont 
Blanc range, Monte Kosa, the Matterhorn, the Bernese Alps with the Jung- 
frau and the Finsteraarhorn , the Dent du Midi, and the Jura as far as 
the mountains of Dauphine. A somewhat difficult descent leads down to 
(2 hrs.) the C/ialet de la Pierre a Birard (6330; inn), and through the 
Vallie de Berard to Argenliire and (4 hrs.) Chamonix (see below). 

The bridle-path from Sixt to the Col d'Anterne ascends the 
Vallie des Fonds to the S., past a picturesque waterfall on the right 
to (*/o hr.) Salvayny (in front rises the beautiful Pointe de Salles), 
and beyond the Cascade du Rouget (right) to the (I'/o lir.) Chalet 
des Fonds (4550'; Alpine fare), near which is 'Eagle's Nest', the 
summer residence of Mr. Wills, at the foot of the Buet (see above). 
About 5 mln. farther up we ascend to the right (the path to the 
left leads to the Col Le'chaud, see above), following a wide curve 
past the Chalets de Grasse-Chevre to (1 hr.) the saddle of the Bas 
du Col d'Anterne. Then leaving the Chalets d'Anterne below us to 
the right, we cross the pastures of that name, and skirt the Lac 
d'Anterne to (I'/o tr.) the *Col d'Anterne (7425'), where a magni- 
flcent survey of Mont Blanc suddenly breaks upon our sight. We 
descend to the left (the path to the right leads in 21/.2 hrs. to Ser- 
voz), in view of the Aiguilles Rouges, into the valley of the Diosaz, 
which we cross after i^/o hr. by a wooden bridge (5532'). We once 
more ascend, to the (1^/2 hr.) Col du Brerent (8075'), which also 
commands a fine view of Mont Blanc. Thence the descent leads 
chiefly through wood, via Planpraz and Les Chabkttes (p. 262) to 
(2 hrs.) Chamonix. 

72. Chamonix and Environs. 

Hotels. *H6t. iMPfiBIAL, *HoT. DE LoNDRES ET D'ANGLETEBEE, "^'HoT. 

RoTAL ET DE Saussure ; at these, R., L., & A. 4-5 fr. and upwards, B. 1V2> 
D. 5fr.; 'Hot. du Montblanc, R., L., & A. 372-5, D. 5 fr. ; *Hot.-Pess. 
CouTTET, R., L., & A. 3'/2-4, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. des Alpes, R. L., & A. 4, 
D. 4, pens. 8-9 fr. — Unpretending: 'Hotel Bead-Site, in an open situation 
at the S. end of the village, R. 2, D. 31/2 fr-; 'Hotel de France, R. from 2, 
B. IV4, pens. 5-7 fr. ; 'Hot. Suisse; 'Hot. -Pens, de la Poste; Hot. de la 
Paix, well spoken of; 'Croix Blanche, R. & L. 2, B. 174, U. 3fr. ; Ba- 
lances ; RfiUNioN des Amis ; de la Tebbasse, with cafe. — Cafi Carrier. 

Guides. A guide is unnecessary for the Monlenvert, the FUgire, the 
Brevent, and the Pierre Pointue. The paths are so minutely described in the 
following pages that they can hardly be mistaken, while opportunities of 
asking the way are also frequent. Visitors to the Chapeau need only 
engage a guide for the passage of the Mer de Glace to or from the Chapeau 
(p. 260). The following extract is from the ^RigUment et Tarif des Guides 
de Chamonix'. Travellers are provided with guides by the Guide-Che/., who 
is bound to employ each in turn, the traveller having no choice except in 
these cases : (1) When a course extraordinaire (see p. 258) is contemplated ; 
(2) When an excursion is made for scientific purposes ; (3) When the 
traveller speaks no French, and the guide is unacquainted with the lan- 
guage of the traveller; (4) When travellers have previously employed a 
certain guide and desire to re-engage the same ; (5) When ladies travelling 

Baedekbk, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 17 



258 Route 72. 



CHAMONIX. 



Guidea' Tariff. 



alone wish to engage a particular guide ; (6) When the traveller is a meiulior 
of an Alpine club. 

The excursions are divided into Courses Ordinaires and Courses Hxtra- 
ordinaires. A complete tariff may be had of the Guide-Chef. 



CouKSES Ordinaires : 



Glacier des Bossons and back 5fr. 

Montenvert and back ... 6fr. 

Montenvert,Merde Glace, Cha- 
peau, and back 9fr. 

Montenvert, Mer de Glace, 
Chapeau, Flegere, and back 
in one day 12 fr. 

Flegere and back 6 fr. 

Pierre Pointue 8; including 
the Aiguille de la Tour or 
Pierre a TEchelle 9 ; or with 
the Plan de TAiguille . . 10 fr. 

Col de Balme 8; back by Tete 
Noire 9; or by Barberine, 
incl. Cascades de Barberine 
and de Berard in one day 9, 
in two days 12 fr. 

Ascent of Buet and down to 
Sixt, incl. return-fee, in owe 
day 23, in two days . . . 28 fr. 

Martigny by the Col de Balme 



or TSte-Noire , or to Ver- 

nayaz by Salvan .... 
Brevent by Planpraz 10 , by 

the Flegere and down by 

Planpraz 

Brevent by Plan Bel Achat 

10, Lac du Brevent 9, Plan 

Bel Achat 

Jardin,and back byChapeau 14 ; 

with night on Montenvert 
Mer de Glace d'Argentiere 8, 

to the 'glacier-circus' in one 

day 12, in two days . . . 
Sixt by the Brevent and Col 

d'Anterne in one day (incl. 

return-fee) 

Sixt by Servoz and Col d'An- 

terne 

Pavilion de Bellevue, Col de 

Voza, or Prarion .... 
Contamines by the Col du 

Tricot 



Courses Extraordinaikes : 



Mont Blanc 100 fr. 

Grands Mulets and back in one 
day 20, in two days 30, Grand 
Plateau 50, Dome du Gouter 
60, Corridor or Bosses du 
Dromadaire 70 fr. 

Courmayeur by the Col de la 
Brenva80 ; Cols de Trelatete, 
d'Argentiere , de Pierre-.Io- 
seph,desHirondelles60;Cols 



du Gdant, de Triolet, du Char- 
donnet 

Aiguille Verte 100, Grandes 
Jorasses 80, Aig. d'Argen- 
tiere and du Chardonnet 65, 
Aig. du Midi 60, Aig. du 
Tour 

Glacier - excursions on the 
Mont Blanc chain, above the 
zone of vegetation, per day 



12 fr. 

12 fr. 

8fr. 
10 fr. 

18 fr. 

18 fr. 
18 fr. 
8fr. 
15 fr. 

50 fr. 

50 fr. 
10 fr. 



The guides are bound on the 'courses ordinaires' to carry baggage not 
exceeding 24 lbs. ; on the 'courses extraordinaires', 14 lbs. only. — The 
following are recommended for difficult expeditions: Francois Siinond, Midi. 
Charlet; Jean Bapt. Croz; Ed. and Aug. Cupelin; Francois, Henri, and 
Michel Devouasoud; Mich. Ducroz; Fred, and M. FoUiquet; Aug. and Alex. 
Paccard; Alph. , Michel and Frid. Payot; Ben. Simon; Michel, Sim., and 
Tob. Tairrai; A. Tournier; Gasp. Simond. 

Horses and Mules. With the exception of the excursion to the Mon- 
tenvert and Chapeau (9 fr.) , and, to the Montenvert for the purpose of 
visiting the Jardin, and back to Chamonix in the evening (8 fr.), the same 
charges are made as for the 'courses ordinaires' of the guides, and as much 
more is charged for the attendant. 

The Collection of Pictures of M. Loppi, a talented painter of Alpine 
scenery, situated behind the Hotel Royal, on the way to the Montenvert, 
is worth seeing. Admission gratis. 

English Church Service during the season. 

Points of Interest. The traveller should devote three or four days at least 
to Chamonix, but those who have one day only at command should ascend 
the Montenvert (p. 259) in the morning (2V2 hrs.), cross the Mer de Glace 
(p. 260) to the (I'/a hr.) Chapeau (p. 260), descend to (1 hr.) Les Tines 
(p. 261), ascend the Fi.ftGfiRE (p. 261; 2^2 hrs.), and descend thence in 



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Montenvert. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 259 

13/4 hr. to Chamonix. Early in the morning the path to the Montenvert 
is in shade, in the afternoon that to the Flegere at least partly so ; and by 
this arrangement we reach the Fle'gere at the time when the light is 
most favourable for the view of Mont Blanc. For this excursion a guide 
(to be found on the Montenvert) is necessary for the Mer de Glace only. 
Riders send their mules round from Montenvert to Les Tines or the Chapeau 
to meet them. The e.xcursion to the Flegere alone takes 5 hrs., and that to 
the Blontenvert or the Chapeau about the same time. — Those who come 
from the E., and have spent the night at Argentiire, should leave the road 
near Lavancher (p. 265) and proceed by the Chapeau , the Mer de Glace 
(comp. , however, p. 260) and Montenvert to Chamonix. The Fle'gere 
may also be reached from La Joux fp. 265), on the right bank of the Arve ; 
but the path is bad and unsuitable for riding, and cannot be found with- 
out a guide (boy l-lVi; fr.). 

On a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the heights are concealed, 
the Glacier des Bossons (p. 262) is the best object for a walk (there and 
back 3 hrs.). — To the Cascade de BLAixifiRE, on the hill-side to the E. of 
Chamonix, 1/2 hr. (hardly worth seeing ; adm. 1/2 fr.). — To the Pavillon 
DE LA Pierre Pointde (p. 263) and back, 5-6 hrs. ; or, including the Aiguille 
de la Tour and Pierre a TEchelle, a whole day. — To the Jardin (p. 261) 
from the Montenvert (where the night is spent) and back, 7-8 hrs. (from 
Chamonix and back 11-12 hrs. ; guide necessary). — Ascent of the BRfivENi 
(p. 261) and back, 7 hrs. ; ascent or descent by the Flegere 2 hrs. more. 

The *Valley of Chamonix (3445'; pop. about 4000), or Cha- 
mouny, 12 M. long, 1/2 M. wide, watered by the Arve, runs from 
N.E. to S.W., from the Col de Balme to Les Houches. It is bounded 
on the S.E. by the Mo7it Blanc chain, with its huge ice-cataracts, the 
Glacier du Tour, d'Argentiere, des Bois (Mer de Glace), and des Bos- 
sons; and on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges and the Brevent. 
A Benedictine priory first brought the valley into cultivation at the 
beginning of the 12th cent., but the reputation of the inhabitants was for 
a long period so bad that when St. Francis de Sales , Bishop of Geneva 
(1602-22), visited the then pathless wilds on foot, this was considered an 
act of the utmost temerity. The valley became better known in 1743, 
when the celebrated traveller Pococke and a Mr. Wyndham visited and 
explored it in all directions , and published their observations in the Mer- 
ciire Suisse. Curiosity and enterprise were further stimulated by the publi- 
cations of the Genevese naturalists de Saussure, de Luc , Bourrit , Pictet, 
and others. Since that time Chamonix has become a great centre of at- 
traction for travellers , especially English, American, and French, and is 
visited by upwards of 15,000 annually. It is inferior to the Bernese Ober- 
land in picturesqueness of scenery , but superior in the grandeur of its 
glaciers, in which respect it has no rival but Zermatt. 

In front of the Hotel Royal, where the route to Mont Blanc (to 
the right) diverges from that to the Mer de Glace (to the left), rises 
the *Saussure Monument, unveiled in August, 1887, on the cen- 
tenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, and consisting of a bronze 
group (by Salmson of Geneva) on a granite pedestal , representing 
Saussure conducted by Balmat (p. 263); inscription: 'a H. B. de 
Saussiire Chamonix reconnaissant'. Another small monument to 
Balmat stands in front of the church. 

The *Montenvert, or Montanvert (6303' ; 21/2 hrs. ; guide un- 
necessary), an eminence on the E. side of the valley, is visited for 
the sake of the view it affords of the vast 'sea of ice'which fills the 
highest gorges of the Mont Blanc chain in three branches (Glacier 
du Gennt or du Tacul, Glacier de Leschau.v, and Glacier de Ta- 
il* 



260 Route 72. CHAMONIX. Chapenu. 

I'efre), and which descends 'into the valley in a huge stream of ice, 
about 41/2 M. long and 1/2" ^ 'A ^I- broad, called the Mer de Glace 
above the Montenvert, and the Glacier des Bois below it. The bridle- 
path leads to the left by the Hotel Royal, passes the little English 
church, and crosses the meadows (to the left of the cemetery-wall) to 
the C'A^'"-) houses of Les Mouilles. We now ascend through pine- 
wood to the right (again turning to the right after 1/4 hr.}, past the 
(10 min.) Chalets des Planards, to (40 min.) Le Caillet (4880'; 
refreshm.), a spring by the wayside. Farther on (12 min.), a bridle- 
path to the left descends to Les Bois (p. 261). Our path ascends 
gradually through wood to the (1 hr.) *H6tel du MontenveTt(R., L., & 
A. 4, lunch 4, D. 5, pens. 9 fr.), at the top of the hill, commanding 
the *Mer de Glace and the mountains around it : opposite us rises the 
huge Aiguille du Dru (12,517') ; behind it, to the left, is the snow- 
clad Aiguille Verte (13,540') and lower down, the Aig. du Bochard 
(8765'), to the right the ^jjr. du Moine (11,214') ; farther distant 
are the Grandes Jorasses (13,800'), the Mont Mallet (13,085'), and 
the Aig. du Ge'ant (13,160'); and immediately to our right tower 
the Aiguilles de Charmoz (11,295') and de Blaitiere (11,595'). 

From the Montenvert travellers usually cross the Mer de Glace 
to the (1 V4"1V2 hr.) Chapeau, opposite. A path descends the left 
lateral moraine to ('/ihr.) the glacier (where guides are generally to 
be found at the hut; woollen socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). The 
passage of the glacier (15-20 min.; guide, unnecessary for the ex- 
perienced, 1^/2 ir., or to the Chapeau 5 fr.) presents no difficulty. 
On the opposite side we ascend over loose stones and debris to the 
(5 min.) top of the right lateral moraine (refreshmts.) , skirting 
which we then descend by a narrow path to the 'Mauvais Pas', a 
steep rock, where the path is hewn in steps and flanked with iron 
rods attached to the rocks, and the (40 min.) Chapeau. (Elderly 
travellers and those subject to giddiness, are to be dissuaded from 
attempting the Mauvais Pas.) Guides for travellers making this ex- 
cursion in the reverse direction are not always to be found at the 
Chapeau ; if required, they should be brought from Chamonix (from 
the Hot. du Mauvais Pas at Lavancher, 6 fr. , see below). 

The ""Chapeau (5082' ; Inn, dear), a projecting rock on the N.E. 
side of the Glacier des Bois, at the base of the Aiguille du Bochard, 
is considerably lower than the Montanvert, but commands an ex- 
cellent survey of the ice-fall of the Glacier des Bois and the Cha- 
monix Valley. In the background Mont Mallet (13,085') and the 
Aiguille du Giant (13,160') ; to the right the Aiguilles de Charmoz 
(11,295'), de Blaitiere (11,595'), ^m Pian (12,050'), and du Midi 
(12,610'), the Bosses du Dromadaire ('14,950'), the Dome du Gouter 
(14,210'), and the Aig. du Gouter (12,710'). 

A bridle-path descends the moraine from the Chapeau, in view 
of the precipices of the Glacier des Bois and the Aiguille du Dru, 
and then through pine-wood to (40 min.) the Hotel du Mauvais Pas 




LA CMMHl B¥ MOlf IILAIC -^m. m la f lal'iSlBl. 



O 



r 



Fleghe. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 261 

(p. 265). Here it divides: to the right to (10 nun.) Lavancher, to 
the left to (20 min.) Les Tines (p. 265). The route hence to the 
FMgeie crosses the Arve at the inn '^ la Mer de Glace', then leads 
to the left through wood and pastures to (20 min.) the beginning 
of the zigzag path (see below). A shorter path, but rough at places, 
and unfit for riding, diverges from the path to Les Tines (20 min. 
from the Chapeau) to the left, and descends the moraine (passing the 
Source of the Arveyron below on the left) to Les Bois and (40 min.) 
Les Praz (see below). 

The ■ Jardin (9145'; guide necessary, p. 259) is a triangular rock rising 
from the midst of the Olacier de Talifre, and walled in by moraines. 
Around a spring in the midst of this oasis Alpine flowers bloom in August. 
From the Montenvert, where the night is passed, we skirt the somewhat 
dizzy rocks oi Les