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k^l'J
SWITZERLAND.
MONEY TABLE.
(Comp. p. xvii.)
Approximate Equivalents.
American
English
Swiss
Herman
Austrian
Money
Money
Money
Money
Monev
■
Doll.
Cts.
L.
S.
D.
Fr.
Cent.
Jl.
Pf.
Fl.
Kv.
1
•|2
5
.
4
2
2'|2
1'4
12'|2
—
10
—
5
5
2' 2
25
—
20
—
10
10
5
50
—
40
—
20
—
12'|.2
—
—
6'|4
—
62' |2
—
50
—
25
20
—
—
93|,
1
—
—
80
—
40
__
25
—
1
1
25
1
—
—
50
__
50
2
2
50
0
—
1
._
75
3
3
75
3
—
I
5(.)
1
4
5
4
—
2
1
25
5
6
25
5
—
■)
50
1
50
6
7
50
6
—
3
—
1
75
7
8
75
7
3
50
2
8
10
8
4
2
25
—
9
—
11
25
9
—
4
50
2
50
—
10
12
50
10
—
5
—
3
—
12
15
12
—
6
—
4
16
20
16
—
8
—
5
—
1
—
25
20
10
—
25
5
—
125
100
50
—
125
—
25
—
—
625
—
500
—
250
—
SWITZERLAND
AND THE ADJACENT I'ORTIONS OF
ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
K. BAEDEKER
With 3S Maps, 11 Plans, and 11 Panokamas
THIRTEENTH EDITION
LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER.
LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W,
1889
All nights lieserved
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
3o
ARTS
PRIEFACE. ^^3
Ihe object of the Handbook ibr Switzerland is to
supply the traveller with all needful information, to point
out the most interesting places and the best way of reach-
ing them , to render him comparatively independent of
the services of guides and others, and thus to enable him
thoroughly to enjoy his tour in this magnificent country.
With improved facilities for travel, the number of visi-
tors to Switzerland has greatly increased of late years,
and mountaineering ambition has been proportionally
stimulated. Summits once deemed well-nigh inaccessible
are now scaled annually by travellers from all parts of the
world. The achievements of the modern Alpine clubs have
dimmed the memory of De Saussure, Auldjo, and the other
pioneers of these icy regions, and even ladies now fre-
quently vie with the stronger sex in their deeds of daring.
The Handbook is based on the Editor's personal ac-
quaintance with the places described , most of which he
has carefully and repeatedly explored. This edition, which
corresponds with the twenty -third German edition, has
been thoroughly revised, and furnished with the latest in-
formation obtainable. Its contents are divided into Seven
Sections (I. N. Switzerland; H. Lake of Lucerne and
Environs, and St. Gotthard ; HL Bernese Oberland; IV.
W. Switzerland, Lake of Geneva, Lower Rhone Valley ;
V. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps;
VI. S.E. Switzerland, Grisons ; VII. Lakes of N. Italy),
each of which may be separately removed from the book
by the mountaineer or pedestrian who desires to minimise
the bulk of his luggage. To each section is prefixed a,
list of the routes it contains, so that each forms an ap-
proximately complete volume apart from the general table
of contents or the general index.
The Editor will highly appreciate any corrections or
suggestions with wliich travellers may favour him. Tlie in-
vi PREFACE.
formation aU-eady received from numerous correspondents,
which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many instances
proved most serviceable.
The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been
bestowed, are based on the Topographical Atlas of Switzer-
land and on Du/ours Map (p. xxiii) , and revised with the
aid of other recent authorities . To the present edition are
added new maps of the Pilatus and of the valleys of Or-
mont; besides new plans of the towns of Bale, Zurich,
Lucerne, Geneva, and Lugano.
Time Tables. The best Swiss publications are the
'Kurshiicher (time-tables) of Krilsi of Bale and Biirkli of
Zurich (50 c. each), sold at most of the railway-stations.
Heights are given in English feet (I Engl. ft. =
0.3048 metre; 1 metre =3.281 Engl, ft., or about 3 ft.
31/3 in.). — Distances on high-roads and railways are
given in English miles ; while those on bridle-paths and
mountain-routes are expressed by the time which they
usually take. The number of miles at the beginning of a
paragraph denotes the distance from the starting-point,
while the distances from place to place are generally
stated within brackets ; but on railway-routes the mileage
is always reckoned from the starting-point.
Hotels. Besides the first-class hotels, the Handbook
mentions a number of the more modest inns also. The
usual charges are stated in accordance with the Editor's
own experience , or from the bills furnished to him by
travellers. Hotel-charges, like carriage-fares and fees to
guides, generally have an upward tendency, but an ap-
proximate statement of these items will enable the trav-
eller to form an estimate of his probable expenditure.
To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards
travellers forms the sole passport to his commendation,
and that advertisements of every kind are strictly exclud-
ed from his Handbooks.
CONTENTS.
Page
I. Plan of Tour, etc xii
II. Travelling Expenses. Money xvii
III. Hotels and Pensions xvli
IV. Passports. Custom House xix
V. Walking Tours xix
VI. Maps xxi
VII. Guides xxii
VIII. Carriages and Horses xxiii
IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph xxiii
X. Railways xxv
XI. History. Statistics xxvi
jj^^^jjg I. Northern Switzerland.
1. Bale 1
2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Miinsterthal 9
3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure 12
4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenbuchsee 16
5. From Bale to Ziirich 17
6. From Bale to Lucerne 20
7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg 21
8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 22
9. The Falls of the Rhine 25
10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance . 27
11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Ziirich) . 30
12. From SchafThausen to Ziirich 31
13. Ziirich and the Uetliherg 32
14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and Walenstadt 39
15. From Ziirich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen ... 46
16. From Ziirich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . . . 47
17. The Canton of Appenzell .^l
18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the Valley
of the Rhine . . : 58
19. From Ziirich to Glarus and Linththal 59
20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 03
21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 65
22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal 67
II. Lake of Lucerne and Environs. The St. Gotthard.
23. From Ziirich to Zug and Lucerne 70
24. Lucerne 73
25. Lake of Lucerne 77
viii CONTENTS.
Route Page
26. The Rigi ' 84
27. From lincerno to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus 91
28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 94
29. From Wiideiiswyl to Eiiisicdelii, Scliwyz, and Brunnen . 96
30. From Lucerne to Belliiizona. St. Gotthard Railway . . 99
31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . . 108
32. The Maderaner Thai 112
33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . . 114
34. From Lucerne to Altdorf by Stans and Engelberg. The
Surenen Pass 116
35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meirlngen and Brienz
(Interlaken) 120
36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 123
37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 125
38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal .... 127
39. From Lucerne to Lenzhurg (Aarau). The 'Seethal'
Railway 129
III. The Bernese Oberland.
40. Bern 133
41. From Bern to Thun 139
42. The Niesen 141
43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. St. Beatenherg 143
44. Interlaken and Environs 145
45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach .... 151
46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Schmadribach 153
47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp 157
48. The Faulhorn 163
49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlani.
Falls of the Reichenbach 165
50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz .... 168
51. The Giessbach 170
52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel .... 171
53. From [Thun) Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 175
54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass 182
55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 183
56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal .... 186
IV. Western Switzerland. Lake of Geneva. Lower Valley of the
Rhone.
57. From Bern to Neuchatel 190
58. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle. .... 193
59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val de Travers 195
00. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 197
61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey") 199
02. From Lausanne to Payernc and Lyss 202
63. From Lausanne to Vallorhe and Pontarlier 204
CONTENTS. ix
Route Page
64. Geneva and Environs 205
65. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and Villeneuve.
La.\ie o{ Gene\A (North Bank) 216
66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon 232
67. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 237
68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 234
69. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of Geneva
(South Bank). Val d'llliez 239
v. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps.
70 From Geneva via Cnioz ami Aix-les-Baiiis to C'hanibery,
and hack via Annecy 246
71. From Geneva to Chamonix 253
72. Chamonix and Environs 257
73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire , or to
Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan 264
74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme 268
75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bonhomme
and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc .... 270
70. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 275
77. The Graian Alps 280
78. From Martigny to Aosta over the Great St. Bernard . . 285
79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val de
Bagnes 291
80. From Martigny over the iSimplon to Novara or to the
Lago Maggiore 293
81. From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. The Eggishorn . . . 302
82. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Falls of the
Tosa. Val Formazza 30G
83. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and Turtmann
(Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . . . i'Oi)
84. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the Theodule Pass to
Chatillon 319
85. Zermatt and Environs 322
86. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over the Moro Pass
to Saas and Visp 328
87. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa .... 333
VI. S.E. Switzerland. The Grisons.
88. From Rorschach to Coire 339
89. Ragatz and Pfiifers 341
90. Coire 845
91. From Landquart to Schuls over the Fliiela Pass. Priitigau 347
92. From Davos to Coire via Lenz (Landwasser Route). . . . 352
93. From Coire to Davos through the Schanfiggthal. Arosa . 355
94. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp 357
X CONTENTS.
Route Page
95. From Disentis to Biasca. The Lukmanier 865
96. From Coire to Splugen. Via Mala 367
97. From Splugen to the Lake of Como 373
98. From Splugen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 375
99. From Coire to the Engadine over the Albula Pass . . . 378
100. From Coire to the Engadine over the Julier 380
101. The Upper Engadine from the Maloja to Samaden . . . 384
102. Pontresina and Environs 392
103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine .... 399
104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano and through
the Valtellina to Colico 405
105. From the Maloja to Chiavenna. Val Bregaglia .... 410
106. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 412
107. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg 417
VII. The Italian Lakes.
108. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como (Milan) .... 421
109. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Val Maggia 426
110. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands 430
111. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo 436
1 12. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the Lake
of Como. Lake of Lugano 440
113. The Lake of Como 442
114. From Como to Milan 450
Index 454
List of Maps.
(Comp. Index Map after the Oeneral Index.)
i. DlSTEIUT BETWEEN SciIAFFHAUSEN ASD CoNSTANCE : RR. 8, i), II, 12,
15, 16 ; between pp. 24, 25.
2. Environs op Schaffhausen : RR. 8, 9, 12; p. 24.
3. Lake of Constance: RR. 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 107 •, between pp. 28, 2'J.
4. Lakes of Zurich and Zug : RR. 13, 14, 15, 23, 29; between pp. 38, 39.
5. Canton of Appenzell : RR. 14, 16, 17, 18, 88, 107 ; between pp. 52, 53.
6. Canton of Glarus: RR. 14, 19-22; between pp. 60, 61.
7. ToDi District : RR. 19, 20, 32, 94 ; between pp. 62, 63.
8. Lake of Lucerne : RR. 6, 23-31, 34, 35 ; between pp. 76, 77.
9. PiLATUS: R. 27; p. 77.
10. RiGi: RR. 25, 26, 28; between pp. 84, 85.
11. Environs of the St. Gotthard: RR. 30-34, 36, 37, 52, 81, 94; be-
tween pp. 102, 103.
12. Loop-Tunnels of the St. Gotthard Railway: R. 30; p. 103.
13. Trift District: RR. 31, 33, 37, 52, 79; between pp. 108, 109.
14. Environs of Engelberg: RR. 30, 34-37; between pp. 118, 119.
15. Bernese Uberland: RR. 41-50, 53, 56; between pp. 144, 145.
16. Environs of Interlaken: R. 44; p. 145.
17. Environs of Grinuelwald: RR. 44-50, 52; between pp. 160, 161.
18. Environs of Kandersteg : RR. 46, 53-55; between pp. 178, 179.
19. Lake op Geneva: RR. 61, 64-67, 69; between pp. 216, 217.
20. Vallevs of Ormunt and their neighbourhood: RR. 55, 65, 66, 68;
between pp. 2.32, 233.
LIST OF MAPS. xi
21. Environs of Chamonix, Sixt, and Couemateuu: RK. 69,71-75; lic-
tween pp. 262, 253.
22. Mont Blanc District: RE. 71-75; between pp. 253,259.
23. Environs of the Geeat St. Bernard, from Martigny to Aosta : RR. 76,
78-80, 83; between pp. 284, 285.
24. Lower Valley of the Rhone, from the Lake of Geneva to the Lotschcn-
Thai : RR. 53-55, 65-69, 80, 83 ; between pp. 232, 233.
25. The Upper Vaxais : RR. 80-82, 84 ; between pp. 298, 299.
26. Aletsch District: RR. 81, 47, 52; between pp. 304, 305.
27. Alps of Canton Valais (from Evolena to Vogogna): RR. 80, 83 87;
between pp. 303, 309.
28. Environs of Zermatt: RR. 83-87; between pp. 322, 323.
29. Environs of Ragatz, the Pratigad and Montavon: RR. 88, 89, 91,
107; between pp. 344, 345.
30. Voeder-Rheinthal : RR. 94-96, 100; between pp. 356, 357.
31. District from the Lukmaniee to the Maloja : RR. 30, 95, 97, 98, 100,
105 ; between pp. 372, 373.
32. The Engadine and Valtellina : RR. 91-93, 99-106; between pp. 384, 335.
33. Environs of Pontkesina: RR. 101, 102, 104; between pp. 392, 393.
34. The Lower Engadine : RR. 91-93, 99, 100, 103, 106; between pp. 400, 401.
35. Lago Maggiore: RR. 80, 110-112; between pp. 430, 431.
36. Lakes of Como and Ldgano : RR. 30, 98, 108, 112, 113 ; between pp. 442,
443.
37. General Map of Switzerland) ^^
38. Key Map of Switzerland )
Panoramas and Views.
1. From the Rigi-Kulm, between pp. 88, 89.
2. From the Pilatus, between pp. 92, 93.
.3. From Bern, p. 136.
4. From the Niesen, p. 144.
5. From the Heimwehfldh, p. 148.
6. From MuREEN, p. 151.
7. From the Fadlhoen, between pp. 164, 165.
8. From the FLftGfeEE, between pp. 260, 261.
9. From the Eggishoen, between pp. 304, 305.
10. From the Goener Grat, between pp. 324, 325.
11. From the Piz Languard, between pp. 396, 397.
Flans of Towns.
Bale, p. 2; Constance, p. 25; Zijeich, p. 32; Lucerne, p. 76; Been, p. 132:
Geneva, p. 204; Lausanne, p. 220; Ragatz, p. 344; Coire, p. 345;
Lugano, p. 422; Milan, p. 450.
Abbreviations.
R. = Room.
E. = East, casti-in.
B. = Breakfast.
W. ±z West, western.
D. = Dinner.
r. := Right.
L. = Light.
1. = Left.
A. = Attendance.
hr. = Hour.
M. = English mile.
min. = Minute.
ft. (') = Engl. foot.
carr. = Carriage.
N. = North, northe
rn.
S.A.C. = Swiss Alpine Club.
S. — South, southern.
I.A.C. = Italian Alpine Club.
N.B. Everything specially worthy of note is indicated by an asterisk.
With regard to distances, see Preface.
I. Plan of Tour.
Season of the Year. Distribution of Time.
The traveller will save both time and money by planning his tour
carefully before leaving home. The Handbook will help him to
select the most interesting routes and the pleasantest resting-
places, and point out how each day may be disposed of to the best
advantage, provided the weather be favourable.
Season. The great majority of tourists visit Switzerland between
the middle of July and the end of September ; but to those who
wish to see the scenery, the vegetation, and particularly the Alpine
flowers in perfection June is recommended as the most charming
month in the year. For expeditions among the higher Alps the
month of August is the best time. Even in summer snow occasion-
ally falls among the higher regions, rendering the mountain-paths
impassable; but in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the
Itigi, the routes through the Bernese Oberland, and most of the
higher Alpine carriage-routes at the beginning of June. On the
other hand snow sometimes lies throughout the whole season on
the Furka, the Grimsel, the Gemmi, etc.
Distribution of Time. One Month, as the annexed plan shows,
suffices for a glimpse at the most interesting parts of Switzerland.
Bale, where the scenery is least interesting, is a good starting-
point, but the traveller may find it more convenient to begin with
Geneva or Neuchatel.
Days
By railway from Bdle to Neuhausen; visit the Falls of the Rhine, by
railway from Dachsen to Zurich (RR. 1, 8, 9, 12) 1
Zurich and the Uetliberg (R. 13) 1
From Zurich by railway to Zug ; by steamboat io Arth; by railway
to the Rigi-Kttlm (RR. 23, 28, 26) 1
From the Rigi by railway to Vitznau (or on foot to Waggis); by
steamboat to Lucerne, and one day at Lucerne (RR. 26, 25, 24) 1
By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne to Brunnen; visit the RiitH,
Axenstein, etc. (R. 25) 1
By steamer from Brunnen to FlUelen ; by the St. Gotthard Railway
to Gdschenen; by omnilms or on foot to Andermatt (RK.25, 30,31) ". 1
By diligence over the Furka to the Rhone Glacier (E.33); walk over
the Grimsel to the Grimsel JJospice (R. 52)
Walk down the Ilaslithal (llandegg Fall) to Meiringen (RR. 52, 49) 1
Walk from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber-
nese Oberland, by the Scheidegg, to [the Faulhorn (RR. 49, 48) . . 1
Descend the Faulhorn to] Grindelwald (Grindelwald Glaciers) (RH. 48,
47) 1
Walk from Grindelwald over the Wengernalp to Lauterhrunnen
(Staubbach) (RR. 47, 45) 1
Walk or ride to Miirren and the Schmadri Fall and back: drive to
Interlakcn (RR. 46, 45) (Ij
I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. xiii
Days
Morning at Inlerlaken ; in the afternoon by steamer to the Giessbac/i
and back (RR. 44, 51) 1
By railway to Darligen; by steamer to Spiez ; [walk to Wimmis;
walk or ride to the top of the Niesen (RR. 43, 42) (1)
Descend from the Niesen to Fruligen] ; drive or walk to Kandersteg
(R. 53) - 1
Walk from Kandersteg over the Gemmi to Bad Leuk (R. 53) ... 1
Drive to Leuk statinn (R. 53) ; by railway to Visp (R. 80) ; walk to
St. Nicolaus (R. 84) ; drive to Zermatt (R. 84) 1
Walk to the Riffel Inn, ascend the Gornergrat, and return to Zermatt
(R. 85) . . " 1
Excursions from Zermatt (Gorges du Garner, Schworzsee, Hdrnli, etc.)
(R. 85) 1
Walk back to Vi^ (R. 84) ; by railway to Martigny (R. 80) . . . 1
To Chamonix over the Col de Balme or the Teie-Noire (RR. 74, 73) 1
Chamonix (R. 72) 1
To Vernayaz by Triquent and Salvan (R. 73); by raihvav to Mon-
treux (R. 65) ' . . . . 1
Excursions from Montreux and Vevey (R. 65) ; bv steamboat to
Geneva (R. 65) " 1
Geneva and Environs (R. 64) 1
By railway to Lausanne; several hours at Lausanne; by railway in
the afternoon to Freiburg (RR. 65, 61) 1
By raUway to Bern (R. 61) ; at Bern (R. 40) 1
By railway to Bale (R. 4); at Bale (R. 1) 1
A few additional days may be pleasantly spent in Eastern
Switzerland (Appenzell, Bad Pfafers, Via Mala, Upper Engadine),
whence the Italian Lakes are easily visited.
Days
From Rorschach or Zurich to Pfafers and Coire (RR. 89, 9U) . . 1
Diligence to Thusis; walk through the Via Mala as far as the third
bridge, and return to Thusis (R. 96) ; walk by the Schpn-Strasse to
Tiefenknsten (R. 96) 1
Diligence over the Julier to Silvaplana (R. 100) and St. Moritz (R. 101).
Drive to the Maloja and back (R. 101); in the afternoon to Pon-
tresina (R. 102) 1
Pontresina {Morleratsch and Roseg Glaciers; ascent of Ihe Piz Lan-
guard etc.; R. 102) 2-3
Diligence over the Bernina to Tirana and Sondrio (R. 104); railwav
to Calico (R. 104); steamer to Bellagio (R. 113) '. IJ/2
Bellagio ( Villa Serbelloni, Villa Carloita, etc.) ; then via Menaggio
and Parlezza to Lugano (RR. 112, 108) 1
Steamboat to Ponte Tresa, railway to Luina (R. 112); steamer to the
Borromean Islands and to Pallanza or Stresa (R. 110) 1
Steamboat to Laveno, and back by the St. Ootthard Railway to
Lucerne 1
Or by railway and diligence over the Simplon to Brieg (R. 80) . . 1
So comprehensive a tour as the above is of course rarely under-
taken; but it will enable the traveller to plan an excursion of suit-
able length, such as one nf the following : —
I. KiGUT Days kkom Bale.
(Riyi, Bernese Oberland, Rhone Glacier, St. Gallhard Route.)
1st. From Bdle (or Constance or Romanshorn) to Zurich. UetHherg.
2nd. To Zug, Arth, the Rigi, and Lucerne.
3rd. By the Briinig Railway to Meiringcn (Gorge of the Aare; Pilaliic
xiv 1. I'LAN OF EXCURSION.
'/z-l day cxIiiO and Dviem; liy steamboat to the Clksshacli and ISdniijen;
by railway to Interlaken.
4tb. To Lciuterbrunnen, and over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald.
5tli. Over the Great ticheidegg to Inn Ilof.
6th. Through the Haslithal (Handegg Fall) to the Grimsel Hospice.
7th. By the Grimsel, the Rhone Glacier^ and the Furka to AndermciH
or Gosckenen.
8fh. To Fliielen, Lucerne, and £aie.
II. Twelve or Foueteen Uats feom Bale.
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Gemtni.)
l3t-6th. As in Tour I.
7th. Over the Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier. Drive to Fiesch; walk
or ride to the Udlel Jtingfrau. (Two additional days: — Ascend the
Eggishorn ; walk via the Riederalp to the Belalp. — Ascend the Sparren-
horn, descend to Brieg.)
8th. Take train to Visp, walk or ride to St. Niklaus , and walk,
ride, or drive to Zermatt.
9th. Ascend the Riffelberg and Gornergrat, etc.
10th. Return to Visp.
11th. To Bad-Leuk and over the Gemmi to Kandersteg.
12th. To Spiez jand Thun (train to Bdle, or to Bern and Geneva).
III. Sixteen Dats fkoji Bale.
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Chamoniv, Lake of Geneva.)
l3t-9th. As in Tour II.
10th. To Visp, and by train to Martigny.
11th. Over the Tt'te-Noire or the Col de Balme to Chamonix.
12th. Excursions from Chamonix.
1.3th. By Salvnn to Vernayaz ; by train to Montreux.
14th, 15th. To Vevey, Lausanne, and Geneva.
16th. To Freiburg, Bern, and Bdle (or from Bern to Neuchdtel).
IV. Seventeen to Twenti Dats from Bale.
(Rigi, Bernese Oberland, Southern Valais, Chamonix.)
l8t-8th. As in Tour II.
9th. Ascend the Gornergrat and return to St. JViklaus.
10th. Cross the Augstbord Pass (ascent of Schwarzhorn) to Gruben.
11th. Cross the Meiden Pass (ascent of Bella Tola) to St. Luc, Vis-
soye, or Zinal.
12th. At Zinal (visit the Alp Arpitelta, etc.).
13th. Cross the Col de Torrent to Evolena.
14th, 15th. At Evolena (Arolla and Ferpicle), and return to Sion.
16th, 17th. Cross the Gemmi to Kandersteg and Thun (or by rail to
Lausanne, Freiburg, and Bern).
(Or: 15th. From Evolena to Sion and Martigny. 16th-20th. To Cha-
monix, Geneva, etc., as in Tour III. J
V. Seven Dat.s fkom Bale.
(Bernese Obtrland, Rigi, St. Gotthard Railway, Italian Lakes.)
1st. From Bdle to Bern and Jnterlaken.
2nd. To Latilerbrtinnen, and over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald.
3rd. Over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen.
4th. Over the Briinig to Alpnach-Stad (ascent of IHlaiiis) and Lucerne.
5th. By the St. Gotthard Railway to Laveno (Stresa, Borromean Is-
lands).
6th. By Luino and Lugano to Bellagio.
7th. Steamer to Como; back by the St. Gotthard Rail, to Lucerne, etc.
VI. Eight or Ten Days from Bale.
(Rigi, Lake of Lucerne, St. Gotthard, Italian Lakes, Spliigen.)
Ist. From Bdle to Lucerne, and by Arth to the Rigi-Kulm.
2nd. Descend to Vitznau; steamer to Brunnen (Axenslein, Riitli, etc.j.
I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. xv
(One or (wo additional days : visit the Madernncr Thai from Aiusleg.,
and return by the Staffeln. By train or carriage to Gos<'henen.)
3rd. By the St. Gotthard Line to Locarno.
4th. To the Borromean Islands, Luino, and Lugano.
5th. By Como, or by Porlezza, to Bellagio.
6th. Walks at Bellagio; steamer to CoUco ; drive to Ckiavenna.
7th. Cross the Splilgen to Coire.
8th. To Zurich and Neuchdlel (or to the Falls of the Rhine and Bale).
VII. Twelve to Fourteen Dats from Bale.
(Same as Tour VI., with the addition of the Upper Engadine.)
lst-5th. As in Tour VI.
6th. To Ckiavenna and through the Val Bregaglia to Casaccia.
7th. Cross the Maloja to St. Moritz and Pontresina.
8th, 9th. At Pontresina (Piz Laiiguard, etc.).
10th. Cross the Albula to Tiefenkasten.
nth. Through the Scht/n Pass to Thusis (Via Mala) and Coire.
12th. To Ragatz (Pfaf'ers) and Zurich.
VIII. Sixteen to Eighteen Dats feom Bale.
(Same as Tour VII., v^ith the addition of the Valtellina and Lower Engadine.)
ist-8th. As in Tour VII.
9th. Cross the Bernina to Tirana.
10th. Through the Valtellina to Bormio.
11th. Cross the Wormser Jock (Piz Umbrail) to St. Maria in the
Miinslerthal (or cross the Stelvio to Trafoi and Spondinig).
12th. Over the 0/e» Pa«« to Zernetz (or drive by Nauders and Martins-
bruck to Schuls).
13th. Cross the Fliiela-Pass to Davos.
14th. Landieasser Route to Tiefenkasten.
15th, 16th. As 11th and 12th of Tour VII.
IX. One Month fkom Geneva,
(Chamoni.v , Courmayeur, Zermatt, Macugnaga , Simploii ., Cpper Rhone
Valley, Tota Fall, St. Gotlhard, Lake of Lucerne, Rigi, Bernese Oherland.)
Ist. From Geneva by steamer to Chillon, and by train to Aigle.
2nd. Drive to Champdry.
3rd. Cross the Col de Coux and Col de Golese to Samoens and Sixt.
4th. Cross the Col d^Anterne to Chamonix.
5th, 6th. At Chamonix ; excursions.
7th. Cross the Col de Voza to Contamines.
8th. Cross the Col de Bonhotnme and the Col des Fours to Moltets.
9th. Cross the Co/ de la Seigne to Courmayeur and ^osia.
10th. Eail to Chdtillon and walk or ride to Val Tournanche.
11th. Cross the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt.
12th, 13th. At Zermatt; excursions.
14th. To Saas and Mattmark.
15th. To Macugnaga by the Monte Moro.
16th. Walk or ride to Vogogna (and thence, if time permit, devote
a couple of days or more to the Italian Lakes).
17th. Cross the Simplon to Brieg.
18th. Drive to Fiesch; ascend the Eggishorn.
i9th. Drive to Obergestelen (perhaps visit the Rhone Glacier thence)
and cross the Gries Pass to the Fall of the Tosa.
20th. Cross the S. Giacomo Pass to Airolo.
21st. By train to Fliielen ; steamboat to Vitznau.
22nd. Rigi.
23rd. To Lucerne.
24th. Cross the Briinig to Meiringen.
25th. To Rosenlaui and Grindelwald.
xvi I. PLAN OF EXOUKSIUN.
26IU. Cri)9S the Wengernalp to Laulerbrunnen ; drive to Inlerlaken.
'i7lh. Visit Giessbach ; steamboat from Interlaken to Thun.
aSlh. To Bern; thence to Bale or back to Geneva.
All the above tonrs are adapted for moderate walkers, and
may of course be varied at pleasure.
Lastly, to travellers who are disinclined for a prolonged tour,
the following notes may be acceptable : —
Famous Points of View.
1. In the Jura (with tlie Alps in the distance, the lower Swiss
hills in the foreground, and, from the westernmost points, the lakes
of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : Bdlel Schweizerhof (p. 25) by the Falls
of the Rhine ; the Weissenstein (p. 15) near Soleure ; the Frohbitrg (p. 13)
near Olten ; the Chaumont (p. 192) and the Tete de Rang (p. 193), in Canton
Keuchatel ; the Signal de Chexbres (p. 202), the Signal de Bougy (p. 219), the
Dole (p. 218), the Mont Tendre (p. "Mi) and the Dent de Vaulion (p. 205) in
the Canton de Vaud.
2. ^Nearer the Alps, or among the lower Alps:
(a). On the N. side of the Alps: the Kaien (p. 53), Jlohe Kaslen
(p. 55), and Sentis (p. 56) in Canton Appenzell ; the Uetliberg (p. 37) and
Bachtel (p. 42) near Zurich ; the Speer (p. 44) near Weesen ; the Alvier (p. 46)
near Sargans ; the Rigi ip. i'i) , Pilatiis (p- Q2) , Mythen (p. lOl), Nieder-
bauen (p. SO), and the Frohnalp stuck (p. 82) near the Lake of Lucerne; the
Napf (p. 128) in the Kntlebucli; the Schanzli (p. 138) and the Gurten (p. 139)
near Bern; the Molfson (p. 235) and Jaman (p. 236) in Canton Freiburg;
the SaUve (p. 215) and the Voiroiis (p. 216) in Savoy, near Geneva; the
Chamossaire (p. 229) near Villars.
(b). On the S. side of the Alps : Monte Generoso (p. 426), Monte S. Sal-
ratoie (p. 42i), and Monte Bri (p. 424) near the Lake of Lugano; Monte
Motlerone (p. 436) between the lakes of Blaggiore and Orta ; the Becca di
liona (p. 2T7) near Aosta; the Crammont (p. 275) near Pre'-St. Didier.
3. Among the High Alps: A'iesen (p. 141), Amnisbiihel (p. 144), Ileim-
irehjiuh (p. 148), Scheiuige Platte (p. 149), Ahendberg (p. 151), Faulhorn
(p. 163), Wengernalp (p. 158), Miinnlichen (p. 162), Britnzer Rolhhorn (p. 169),
Miirren (p. 154), and the Schilthorn (p. 154) in the Bernese Oberland ; the Pizzo
Centr ale ip. Ill) on the St. Gottliard ; the Furkahorn (p. 116), Kleine Siedel-
horn (p. 173), Eggishorn (p. 304), Sparrhorn (p. 297), the Torrenthorn (p. 181),
Pierre it Voir (p. 232), Mont BniU fp. 312), Oornergrat (p. 323), Schwarzhorn
(p. 318), Bella Tola (p. 317), and Pic d^Arzinol (p. 310) in the Valais ; the
Col de Balme (p. 269), FUgh-e (p. 261), and Brivent (p. 261) near Chamoni.x ;
Piz Umbrail (p. 414) on the Stelvio route: Muot Marmork (p. 386), Muotlas
Muraigl (p. 391), Scha/bcrg (p. 395), Piz Languard (p. 396), Piz 01 (p. 391),
Schwarzhorn (p. 351), Stdlzerhorn (p. 380), Piz Mundaun (p. 359) and Piz
Muraun (p. 362) in the Grisons.
Principal Alpine Passes.
Pre-eminent in point of scenery is the St. Golthard (RR. 30, 31), rendered
easily accessible by the railway across it ; but it need hardly be said that
its attractions are not seen to advantage from the windows of a train.
Next to it ranks the SplUgen (RR. 96, 97), particularly on the N. side,
where it coincides with the Bernardino Route (R. 98). The finest approach
to the Kngadine is by the Schyn-Slrasse (p. 369) and the Albula Pass (R. 99);
and the beautiful Maloja Pass (RK. 101, 105) leads thence to the Lake
of Como. From the Kngadinc the intere.sling Bcrnina /'ass (li. 104) crosses
to the somewhat monotonous Vallellina, the journey through which hag,
liowever, been much facilitated by the new railway from Sondrio to Colico.
(p. 409). In Western Switzerland the Siniplon (1!,. 80) is justly a fav-
ourite pass, though inferior to several of the aliove , while the famous
Great St. Bernard (K. 78), apart from its hospice, is undoubtedly the least
interesting of the series. Many of the grandest, and also easiest passes
are comprised in the 3th of the above Tours.
II. TRAVELLING EXPENSES. MONEY. xvii
Headquarters for Mountaineering.
The must important are Grindelwald (p. 160j, Zeriiiall (p. 322), C/ia-
monix (p. 257), Covrmayeur (p. 274), Macugnaga (p. 329), and Ponlresina
(p. 392), at all of which experienced guides abound.
Health Kesorts.
Switzerland can boast of few mineral springs, but 'Luftkurorte'
('air -cure places') and summer pensions abound in every part of the
country. A few of the most important only need be mentioned here.
Mineral Baths. Tarasp, in the Lower Engadine (p. 403): ,S(. Morifz,
in the 'Upper Engadine (p. 388) ; Eagalz fp. 341) ; Stachelberg (p. 61) ;
Weissenburg (p. 186); Lenk (p. 184); Lenk or Loec/ie (p. 180); the saline
baths of Bex and Aigle (pp. 220, 229) ; St. Gervais (p. 254).
Winter Eesokts for invalids: Davos fp. 351); Mcntreux (p. 225).
Summer Resorts, see p. xviii.
II. Travelling Expenses. Money.
Expenses. The cost of a tour in Switzerland depends of course
upon the habits and tastes of the traveller. The pedestrian's daily
expenditure, exclusive of guides, may be estimated at 12-15s., if
he frequents the best hotels , or one-third less if he selects the
more modest inns, and avoids the expensive and tedious tables
d'hote. The traveller who prefers driving and riding to walking,
who always goes to the best hotels, and never makes an ascent
without a guide, must be prepared to spend at least twice the above
sum ; while the mountaineer's expenses will often amount to several
pounds for a single glacier-expedition.
Money. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of
France in 1851. In silver there are coins of 5, 2, 1, and ^j-i fr.
(Those of 1859-63, with the sitting figure of Helvetia, which have
been called in, and Italian and Papal 1 fr. and 1/2 fr. pieces should
be declined). In plated copper 20, 10, and 5 centimes (or 'Rappen'),
and in copper 2 and 1 c. pieces. One franc = 100 c. = (in Ger-
man money) 80 pfennigs == Q^/^d. French gold is the most con-
venient coin, and English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are re-
ceived almost everywhere at the full value; but the circular notes
of lOi., issued by many of the Englisli banks, are safer for carrying
large sums. German gold and banknotes also realize their full value
(20 marks = 24 fr. 50-60 c).
m. Hotels and Pensions.
Hotels. Switzerland is famous for its hotels. The large modern
establishments at Geneva, Vevey, Ziirich, Lucerne, Interlaken, etc..
are models of organisation; the smaller hotels are often equally well
conducted, and indeed a really bad inn is rarely met with in French
or German Switzerland.
The ordinary charges at the first -class hotels are: bed -room
from 21/2 fr-, table d'hote 4-6 fr.; breakfast (tea or coffee, bread,
butter, and honey) I'^f'- i" ^^^ public room, 2fr. in the traveller's
apartment; candle 1 fr., service 1 fr. ; supper generally a la carte.
liAtUEKER, Switzerland. 13th Edition. b
xviii III. HOTELS AND PENSIONS.
When attendance is charged in the bill, nothing more need be given
except to the boots and porter. At the large hotels the best accom-
modation is generally reserved for families, while the solitary tra-
veller is consigned to the inferior rooms at equally high charges.
At the second-class inns the average charges are : bed-room from
l^/afr., breakfast l-l'/4fr., table d'hote 21/2-3 fr., service discre-
tionary, and no charge for 'bougies'.
Opinions regarding hotels often differ ; but travellers will rarely
have much cause to complain if they endeavour to comply with the
customs of the country, restrict their luggage to a moderate quantity
(p. xxv), and learn enough of the language to make themselves in-
telligible.
If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel, the bill should be asked for
every three or four days, in order that errors, whether accidental or de-
signed, may more easily be detected. When an early departure is contem-
plated, the liill should be obtained over-night. It is not an uncommon
practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and
confusion of starting render overcharges less liable to discovery.
In the height of the season the hotels at the favourite resorts of trav-
ellers are often crowded. To prevent disappointment rooms should be tele-
graphed for (p. xxv).
Pensions. Boarding-houses or 'pensions' abound at Lucerne,
Geneva, Interlaken, and in many other parts of Switzerland. The
charge for board and lodging varies from 41/2 to 10 or 15 fr., and at
some of the most famous health-resorts and watering-places some-
times amounts to 20 fr. per day. As the word 'pension' is some-
times used to signify board only, the traveller should ascertain
whether rooms are included in the charge or not. In the dull
season (October to June) many of the hotels also take visitors 'en
pension', usually charging l-3i/2fr. per week extra for attendance.
Among the Swiss Summer Kesorts may be mentioned: —
In NoKTiiEKN SwiTZEULAND: The Wetssensteiii (4220'; p. 15) near So-
lenre; Langenbruck (2355'; p. 12) and Freiikendorf (1120'; p. 12j near Lies-
tal; the Fi-ohburg (2772'; p. 13) near Olten; the C/iavmoiH (3845'; p. 192)
near Neuchatel; Ziirk/i (1345'; p. 32) and the Uetlibevg (2864'; p. 38);
Wadenswt/l (1348'; p. 40) and other places on the Lake of Zurich (1342');
Schd»/el.i and Felsenegg (3130'; p. 71) near Zug; Weesen (1410'; p. 43); and
Murg (p. 45) on the Walcnsee; Obslaldm (2237'; p. 44), Stachelberg (2178';
p. Gl), Vorauen (2640'), and Richisau (3590') in the Klcinthal (p. 66);
the lleinvichsbad (2300'; p. 48), near Ilorisau; Rorschach (1312'; p. 50),
Walzeiihausen (2224'; p. 50), Ihiden (2645'; p. 52), Gais (3075'; p. 54), and
Weissbad (2680'; p. 55) in Appen/cU.
On the Lakk of Luckrne (1435'): Lucerne (p. 74); Meggen (p. 95); Jler-
tenstein (p. 78); Weggis {p.lS); lieckenried (p. 79); VHziiau (p. 78); Gersmi
(p. 79) ; Bnirnieii fp. 81 ) ; Axcnstein (2330') and Axeiifels (2065'; p. 81) ; SeelUberg
(2628'; p. 80); Biirgeiistock {'mb's p. 91); Sloos (4242'; p. 81); Rigi-KlosterU
(4262'; p. 87), Kaltbud (4700'), First (4750'), Utaffel (5262') ; and Scheideyg (5305').
In Canton Lucerne: Schwnrzenberg (2760'; p. 127). In Unterwalden :
Engelberg (3315'; p. 118); Nieder-Iiickenbach (3S30'; p. 117); Melchsee-Frutt
(6472'; p. 122). In Ubi: Amsteg (1760'; p. 103); the Maderaner Thai (4790';
p. 112); Andermatl (4738'; p. 110); Ilospenthal (4800"; p. 110); St. Ootthard
(6867'; p. 111).
In the Bernese Oberland: Bern (1765'; p. 133); Thvn (1844'; p. 139);
Oberhofen (p. 143), Ottnten (p. 143), and Spiez (p. 144) on the Lake of Thun
(1837'); AescM (2^18'; p. 176); Guriiigelbad (3783': p. 141) -Jnterlaken (1863';
p. 145); St. Beaienberg (3766'; p. 144); Abendberg (3737'; p. 151); tUa Giessbach
IV. PASSPORTS, xix
(1857'; p. 170); Miirren (5348'; p. 154); Wengen (4327': p. 158); Qrindelwald
(3468'; p. 160); Meivingen (1968'; p. 168); Eiigstlenalp (6033'; p. 124); Adel-
hodeii (444V; p. 177); Kandersteg (3840'; p. 178); Lenk (352T; p. 184).
On the Lake of Geneva, in the Ehone Valley, etc.: Geneva (1243';
p. 205); Ouchy (p. 219); Lausanne (p. 220); Vevey (p. 222); Montveux
(p. 225); Crlion 02254'; p. 226); Aigle (1375'; p. 229); Bex (1427'; p. 230);
Villnrs (4166'; p. 229); the OrmonU (3815'; p. 2.34); Gri/on (3632'; p. 238);
Chateau d'Oex (3498'; p. 237); Champiry (3150'; p. 241); Fiesch (3458';
p. 304); Belalp (7153'; p. 296); Eggishoni (7195'; p. 304); Zermatt (5315';
p. 322), the Riffelalp (7305'; p. 323) and Riffelberg (8430'; p. 323); Fee (5900';
p. 332); St. i!/c(5495'; p. 316); Zinal (5505'; p. 315); Hotel Weisshorn (7550';
p. 317); Fvoletia iib20'; p. 310); Chamonix (3445'; p. 257).
In the Orisons: Samaden (5670'; p. 391); Pontresina (5915'; p. 392);
S<. Movitz (60rO'; p. 390); SiU-Maria (5895'; p. 386); <Sc/i«!.'! (3970'; p. 402);
Davos (5115'; p. 352); Arosa (6035'; p. 356); Klosters (39G6'; p. 349); -Seeiix'.'!
(2985'; p. 348); WaldMuser (3615'; p. 359), near Flims; Tkusis (2448';
p. 368); Disentis (3773'; p. 362); TF)ese?i (4720'; p. 354); Churwalden (3976';
p. 380); Parpan (4956'; p. 380).
On the South Side of the Alps; Airolo (3755'; p. 105); Hotel Piora
(6000'; p. iQb)\Fuido (2352'; p. 106); and Bignasco (1424'; p. 428); in Ticino;
Macugnaga (5115'; p. 329); Gressoney (5338'; p. 334); Lvgano (932'; p. 421);
5e//a9(o (p. 444), Cadenabbia, Menaggio^ etc., on the Lake of Como (7C)0');
Pallanza (p. 433), Baveno (p. 434), and Stresa (p. 435), on the Lago Maggiore
(646'); A[cmle Generoso (5440'; p. 426) and Lanzo d'Intelvi (3117'; p. 441),
near the Lake of Lugano.
IV. Passports. Custom House.
Passports. In Switzerland passports are unnecessary, but as
tliey must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters,
and are sometimes of service in proving the traveller's identity,
it is unwise not to be provided with one. The principal passport-
agents in London are : Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand ; Dorrel
and Son, 15 Charing Cross; E. Stanford, 26 Coclispnr St., Charing
Cross; W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street.
Custom House. Luggage is rarely examined at the Swiss
custom-house, but the formalities of the douane must be un-
dergone by persons leaving Switzerland. At the French, Italian,
and Austrian frontiers the examination is sometimes strict, and to-
bacco and cigars pay a heavy duty, but at the German frontier the
visite is usually lenient. As a rule the traveller should restrict his
belongings as far as possible to wearing apparel and articles for per-
sonal use.
V. Walking Tours.
In a mountainous country like Switzerland it is to pedestrians
alone that many of the finest points are accessible, and even where
driving or riding is practicable, walking is often more enjoyable.
Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the walker is to
start early. If strength permits, and a suitable halting-place is to
be met with, a walk of one or two liours may be accomplished be-
fore breakfast. At noon a moderate luncheon is preferable to the
usual table d'hote dinner. Rest should be taken during the hottest
hours (12-3), and the journey then continued till 5 or 0 p.m.,
when a sul)Stantial meal (evening tabli; d'hote at tht; principal hotels)
b^
XX V. WALKTNO TOURS.
may be partaken of. The traveller' ,s own feelings will best dirtate
the hour for retiring to bed.
Equipment. A superabundance of luggage infallibly increases
the delays, annoyances , and expenses of travel. To be provided
with enough and no more, may be considered the second golden
rule for the traveller. A light 'gibeciere' or game-bag, which is
far less irksome to carry than a knapsack, suffices to contain all that
is necessary for a week's excursion. A change of flannel shirts and
worsted stockings , a few pocket-handkerchiefs , a pair of slippers,
and the 'objets de toilette' may, with a little practice, be carried
with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue. A pocket-knife with a
corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup, a spirit-flask, stout gloves , and a
piece of green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from
the glare of the snow, should not be forgotten. Useful, though less
indispensable, are an opera-glass or small telescope, sewing materials,
a supply of strong cord, sticking plaster, a small compass, a pocket-
lantern, a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. The traveller's
reserve of clothing should be contained in a portmanteau of moder-
ate size, which he can easily wield himself when necessary, and
which may be forwarded from town to town by post.
The mountaineer should have a. -weU-tTied Alpetistock of seasoned
ash, r)-(j' long, shod with a steel point, and strong enough, when
placed horizontally, with the ends supported, to bear the whole
weight of the body. For the more difficult ascents an Ice- Axe and
Jiope are also necessary. The best ropes, light and strong, are made
of silk or Manilla hemp. In crossing a glacier the precaution of using
tlie rope should never be neglected. It should be securely tied
round the waist of each member of the party, leaving a length of
about 10' between each pair. Ice-axes are made in various forms,
and are usually furnished with a spike at the end of the handle, so
that they can in some measure be used like an Alpenstock.
General Hints. The traveller's ambition often exceeds his
powers of endurance, and if his strength be once overtaxed he will
sometimes be incapacitated altogether for several days. At the
outset, therefore, the walker's performances should be moderate;
and even when he is in good training , they should rarely exceed
lOhrs. a day. When a mountain has to be breasted, the pedes-
trian should avoid 'spurts', and pursue the 'even tenor of his way'
at a steady and moderate pace ( '■chi va piano va sano ; chi va sann
rm lontano' ). As another golden maxim for his guidance, the travel-
l(!r should remember that — 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'.
Mountaineering among the higher Alps should not be attempted
before the middle or end of July, nor at any period after a long
continuance of rain or snow. Glaciers should be traversed as early
in the morning as possible, before the sun softens the crust of ice
formed during the night over the crevasses. Experienced guides
are indispensable for such excursions.
VI. MAPS. xxi
The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless ab-
solutely necessary. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in
'a fragrant bed of hay', the cold night-air piercing abundant aper-
tures, the ringing of the cow-bells , the grunting of the pigs, and
the undiscarded garments, hardly conduce to refreshing slumber.
As a rule, therefore, the night previous to a mountain expedition
should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club-huts which
the Swiss, German, and Italian Alpine Clubs have recently erected
for the convenience of travellers.
Mountaineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread,
and wine or spirits for long expeditions. The chalets usually afford
nothing but Alpine fare (milk, cheese, and stale bread). Glacier-
water should not be drunk except in small quantities, mixed with
wine or cognac. Cold milk is also safer when qualified with spirits.
One of the best beverages for quenching the thirst is cold tea.
Over all the movements of the pedestrian the weather holds
despotic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be
consulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the
wind from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melt-
ing away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains,
and the ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture are
all signs of fine weather. On the other hand it is a bad sign if the
distant mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct in out-
line, if the wind blows up the mountains , and if the dust rises in
eddies on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain.
Health. For wounds and bruises zinc ointment is a good remedy.
Another is a mixture of V2 oz. of white wax, '/2 o^- tallow, 3/4 oz. olive
oil, and IV2 drachms of vinegar of lead, melted together. For inflammation
of the skin, caused by the glare of the sun on the snow, cold cream or
glycerine and starch are recommended. Another remedy is an ointment
of equal parts of almond oil, white wax, and spermaceti.
For diarrhoea 15 drops of tincture of opium and aromatic tincture
mixed in equal quantities may be taken every two hours until relief i.<)
alVorded. The homoeopathic tincture of camphor is also useful.
VI. Maps.
1. Maps of Switzerland in One Sheet : —
*Zieglers neue Karte der Schweiz (1 : 380,000), with explan-
ations and index. Price 12 fr.
Ziegler's Hypsometr. Karte (1 : 380,000), 4 sheets, 20 fr.
Kellers Karte (1 : 450,000), 6fr.
*Leuzinger's neue Karte (i : 400,000), 8fr.
2. Maps on a Larger Scale : —
Oeneralkarte der Schweiz (1 : 250,000), published by the gov-
ernment topographic office, reduced from Dufours Map, 4 sheets.
The Alpine Club Map of Switzerland , published by R. C Ni-
chols (1 : 250,000), 4 sheets, 42s.
*Ti>poyraphisciie Karte der Schweiz, from surveys made by order
xxii VIT. GUIDES.
of the Federal authorities (under the superintendence of Oeneral
Dufour); scale 1 : 100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 2fr. (not mounted).
Heights are given in m&tres.
An admirable work on a still larger scale is the *Topogra-
phische Atlas der Schweiz, on the scale of the original drawings
(flat districts 1:25,000, mountains 1:50,000), published by the
Federal Staff Office (each sheet 1 fr.).
Separate maps of the different Cantons are also Issued by the
cantonal authorities: St. Gallen and Appenzell (16 sheets), Geneva
(4 sh.), Lucerne (10 sh.), Ziirich (32 sh.), on a scale of 1 : 2.5,000;
Aargau (4 sh.), Freiburg (4 sh.), Glarus, Grisons , Ticino , Uri,
Unterwalden, Vaud (12 sh.) and the Valais, 1 : 50,000.
For Chamonix, Reilly's Map of Mont Blanc, and Mieulet's Massif
du Montblanc (1 : 40,000).
For the Engadine, Zieglers Karte desOber- undUnter-Kngadin,
in 6 sheets (1 : 50,000).
VII, Guides.
On well-trodden routes like those of the Rigi, Pilatus, Wen-
gern Alp, Faulhorn, Scheidegg, Grimsel, Gemmi, etc., the services
of a guide are unnecessary; but the traveller may engage the first
urchin he meets to carry his bag or knapsack for a trifling gratuity.
Guides are, however, indispensable for glacier-expeditions. As a
class, they will be found to be intelligent and respectable men,
well versed in their duties, and acquainted with the people and
resources of the country.
The great stations for guides are Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen,
Grindelwald, Meiringen, Martigny, Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zer-
matt , and Pontresina , while for the principal passes guides are
always to be found at the neighbouring villages. The traveller
should select one of the certificated guides , who have passed an
examination, and are furnished with legal certificates of character
and qualifications. The usual pay of a guide is 6-8 fr. for a day of
8 hrs. ; he is bound to carry 15-18 pounds of baggage, and to hold
himself at the entire disposition of his employers. If dismissed at
a distance from home, he is entitled to 6fr. a day for the return-
journey ; but he is bound to return by the shortest practicable route.
Although a guide adds considerably to the traveller's expenses,
the outlay will seldom be regretted. A good guide points out many
objects which the best maps fail to indicate ; he furnishes interesting
information about manners and customs, battle-fields, and historical
incidents ; and when the traveller reaches his hotel, wearied with the
fatigues of the day, his guide often renders him valuable service.
It need hardly be said that a certain amount of good fellowship and
confidence should subsist between the traveller and the man who
is perhaps to be his sole companion for several days, and upon
whose skill and experience his very life not unfrequently depends.
IX. DILIGENCES, etc. xxiii
Divided among a party, the expense of a guide is of course
greatly diminished; but where there is much luggage to carry, it is
often better to hire a horse or mule, the attendant of which will
serve as a guide on the ordinary routes.
Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 fr. an hour, when
not engaged by the day, return included. In every case it is advis-
able to make a distinct bargain beforehand.
VIII. Carriages and Horses.
Carriages. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is
15-20 fr., with two horses 25-30 fr. per day, and the driver ex-
pects 1 fr. per horse as a gratuity. In the height of summer the
charges are slightly increased. Like the guides, the 'voiturier'
demands the return-fare to the place where he was engaged, and
the traveller should therefore endeavour to discharge his carriage
as near the home of the driver as possible.
For long journeys it is desirable to have a written agreement,
which the driver usually concludes by depositing a sum with his
employer as earnest-money, afterwards to be added to the account.
The carriage and horses should be inspected before the conclusion
of the bargain. Private posting, or the system of changing horses,
is forbidden by law.
Return-vehicles may sometimes be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per
day, but the use of them is in some places prohibited.
The average day's journey is 30-40 miles, a halt of 2-3 hrs.
being made about noon; and for the return-journey about 36 M.
In mountainous districts 'Bergwagli' or 'chars-a-bancs', for two
persons, may be hired for 12-15 fr. per day, fees included.
Horses. A horse or mule costs 10-12 fr. per day, and the atten-
dant expects a gratuity of 1-2 fr. in addition ; but in some places,
as at Chamonix, as much is charged for the attendant as for the
animal. If he cannot return home with his horse on the same day,
the following day must be paid for. Walking, however, is prefer-
able. A prolonged ascent on horseback is fatiguing, and the de-
scent of a steep hill is disagreeable. Even ladies may easily asceTid
some of the finest points of view on foot, but if unequal to the
task they may either ride or engage 'chaises-a-porteurs'.
IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph.
Diligences. The Swiss postal system is well organised. The
diligences are generally well fitted up, the drivers and guards are
respectable, and the fares moderate. These vehicles consist of the
coupe, or first-class compartment in front, with 2-3 seats, the in-
terieur, or second-class compartment at the back, with 4-6 seats,
which affords little or no view, and the banquette (used in summer
only) for 2 passengers on the outside. In some cases there is only
one outside-seat, which is reserved for the eondupteur, or guard.
xxiv IX. DILIGENCES, etc.
but which will be ceded by him on payment of the difference be-
tween the oriiiiiary and the coupe fare.
On important routes the coupe is generally engaged several days
beforehand. This may be done by letter, enclosing the fare, and
giving the traveller's name , and the day and hour of departure.
When the diligence is full, 'Beiwagen', or supplementary carriages
are provided. These are often light, open vehicles, preferable
to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. A seat in one of them may gen-
erally be procured by arrangement with the conductor. As a rule
passengers are consigned to the interieur or to a supplementary
carriage in the order in which they are booked. If therefore the
traveller has failed to secure a coupe or banquette seat by early
application, he will often avoid the interieur by delaying to take
his ticket till the diligence is about to start.
The coupe or banquette fare is on ordinary routes 20 c. per
kilometre (about 32 c. per Engl. M.), on Alpine passes 30 c. perkilom.
(about 48 c. per Engl. M.); fare in the interieur or cabriolet 15 or
25 c. per kilometre (24 or 40 per Engl. M. ). Children of 2-7 years of
age pay half-fare. Each passenger is allowed 33 lbs. of luggage
on ordinary routes, but 22 lbs. only on the high Alpine routes.
Overweight is charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Small articles
may be taken into the carriage, but heavy luggage should be booked
one hour before starting. The average speed of these sedate mail-
coaches of Switzerland is about 6 M. per hour on level ground, and
4 M. per hour on mountains-routes.
Extra-Post. This is the term applied to the Swiss system of
posting, managed by government, private posting being prohibited.
The charge for each horse is V2f'^- per kilometre (80 c. per M.); for
a carriage with 2-5 seats 20 c. per kilom. (32 c. per M.), for one
with 6 seats 25 c. per kilom. (40 c. per M.), for one with 7 or
more seats 30c. per kilom. (48c. per M.). Besides these charges,
which include the driver's fee, an additional payment of 2-4 fr.
must be made according to the size of the carriage. If the same
vehicle is required for a journey of several stages, double carriage-
money is exacted. P^xtra-post may be ordered at the principal post-
offices on the mountain-routes at one hour's notice. The fare must
be paid in advance.
Letters of 15 grammes (about 1/2 o'-}i prepaid, to any part 0
Switzerland 10c. ; if within a radius of 10 kilometres, 5c.; to al
countries in the postal union 25c., and 25c. for each 15 gr. more
Ilegistration-fee for Switzerland 10 c, for other countries 25 c. —
Post-cards for Switzerland 5 c, for other countries 10 c. — Printed
matter under 15 gr. for Switzerland 2 c, for other countries 5 c.
Post Office Orders within Switzerland must not exceed 1000 fr. for
the larger, and 0(X) t"r. for the smaller towns. The charge for an order not
exceeding KXJfr. is 20 c., for each additional 100 fr. 10 c. more. Money-
orders for foreign countrie.s 24 c. for every 10<J fr. (vyith a minimum
fee of 60 c).
X. RAILWAYS. XXV
The Telegraph System of Switzerland is very complete, the
aggregate length of the wires being at present greater than in any
other country in proportion to the population. There are now
upwards of iOOO offices; those in the large towns are open from
6 or 7 a.m. till 11 or 10 p.m. according to the season. The tariff
for a telegram within Switzerland is 30 c, together with 21/2 c.
for each word ; to Germany 10 c. for each word ; to England 40 c. for
each word; to France 7c. for each word for telegrams to the frontier,
or 121/2 c. for each word for greater distances. The rates for other for-
eign telegrams may be ascertained at the offices. For telegrams handed
in at railway-stations an additional charge of 50 c. is made.
Telegrams may be handed in at any post-office, from which, if
not itself a telegraph office, they are transmitted without delay to
the nearest. In such cases the fee for the telegram is paid by af-
fixing a stamp of the requisite value (1/2 fr- or upwards, according
to the number of words).
X. Railways.
The Carriages in German Switzerland are constructed on the
American plan, generally holding 72 passengers, and furnished
at each end with steps of easy access. Through each carriage, and
indeed through the whole train, runs a passage, on each side of
which the seats are disposed. This arrangement enables the trav-
eller to change his seat at pleasure, and to see the scenery to ad-
vantage, unless the carriage is very full. Tickets are examined and
collected in the carriages.
The carriages in French Switzerland are of the ordinary con-
struction. Passengers' tickets are checked as they leave the waiting-
room before starting, and given up at the ^Sortie' on their arrival.
Luggage must be booked and paid for after the traveller has
obtained his own ticket, but small portmanteaus and travelling-bags
may generally be taken into the carriage without objection. Trav-
ellers with through-tickets from the German to the Swiss railways,
or vice versa, should see that their luggage is safe on reaching the
frontier (Bale, Geneva, Neuchatel, Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Ror-
chach, Romanshorn, etc.). Where a frontier has to be crossed,
ordinary luggage should never be sent by goods-train.
The enormous weight of the large trunks and boxes used by
some travellers causes not only great labour but not infrequently
serious and even lifelong injury to the railway and hotel porters who
have to handle them. Heavy articles should be placed in the smaller
packages, and only the lightest articles in the larger trunks.
Circular Tickets and return-tickets are issued at reduced rates
on most of the Swiss lines, and also by the German and French
railways to Switzerland. Information regarding them will be found in
the time-tables ; but they are apt to hamper the traveller's movements
and to deprive Mm of the independence essential to enjoyment.
XI. History. Statistics.
The limits of tliis work preclude more than a brief historical sketch ol
the interesting country the traveller is now visiting, whose inhabitants have
ever been noted for their spirit of freedom and independence. It is ne-
cessary for a moment to carry the reader back to the conquest of Helvetia
by the Roman legions. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a flourish-
ing trade , which covered the land with cities and villages. A trace of
that period exists in the Romanic dialect , which is still spoken in some
parts of Switzerland.
Switzerland is believed to have been fii-st peopled by the li/iaeti, who
were driven from the plains to the mountains by the Helvetii , a Celtic
tribe. The latter were conquered by the Romans, B. C. 58, and the Rhseti
were subdued in B. C. 15. The Romans made good military roads over
the Great St. Bernard (p. 285) to Bale, and over the Julicr (p. 332),
Scptimer (p. 382), and Spliigen (p. 373) to Bregenz (p. 420), and thence to
Bale. The chief settlements were Aventicum (Avenches, p. 203) in the Can-
ton of Vaud, Vindonissa (Windisch, p. 18) at the confluence of the Aare,
Reuss , and Limmat, Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, p. 17) near Bale, and
Curia Rhaetorum (Coire, p. 345) in the Grisons. E. Switzerland as far as
Pfyn (ad fines) in Thurgau, and P/i/n (p. 295) in the Upper Valais, belonged
to the province of Rhaetia, while W. Switzerland formed part of Gaul.
The name Helvetii had become extinct even before the time of Constantine.
About A. D. 400 a great irruption of barbarians swept through the
peaceful valleys of the Alps , and Huns, Burgundians, Alemanni, and
Ostrogoths in succession settled in diflferent parts of the country. The
Alemanni occupied the whole of N. Switzerland, where German is now
spoken; the Bnrgundians the W. part, where French is spoken; and the
Ostrogoths S. Switzerland, where Italian and Romansch are now spoken.
These races were gradually subdued by the Franks, who, however, did not
take possession of the country themselves, but governed it by their officers.
During this period Christianity was introduced, the monasteries of Disentis
(p. 362), St. G alien (p. 48) , Einsiedeln (p. 96) , and Beromiinster were
founded , and dukes and counts were appointed as vicegerents of the
Franconian kings.
After the dissolution of the great Franconian empire, the eastern half
of Switzerland, the boundary of which extended from Eglisau over the
Albis to Lucerne and the Grimsel, was united with the duchy of Alemau-
nia, or Swabia, and the western part with the kingdom of Burgundy (912).
After the downfall of the latter (1032) the German Emperors took posses-
sion of the country, and governed it by their vicegerents the dukes of
Zaehringen (p. 134), who were perpetually at enmity with the Burgundian
nobles and therefore favoured the inhabitants of the towns, and were
themselves the founders of several new towns, such as Freiburg, Bern,
and Burgdorf.
As the power of the emperors declined, and the nobles, spiritual and
temporal, became more ambitious of independence, and more eager to fill
their coffers at the expense of their neighbours, the Swiss towns and the
few country-people who had succeeded in preserving their freedom from
serfdom were compelled to consult their safety by entering into treaties
with the feudal lords of the soil. Thus the inhabitants of Ziirich placed
themselves under the protection of the then unimportant Counts of Baps-
burg, with whom the 'Three Cantons'' of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden
were also allied. In 1231 and 1240 letters of independence were granted
by Emperor Frederick II. to Uri and Schwyz, and after Count Rudolph of
Hapsburg had become emperor he confirmed the privileges of the former
in 1274, while Schwyz and Unterwalden still continued subject to the
Hapsburg supremacy.
After the emperor's death in 1291 the Forest Cantons formed their
first league for mutual safety and the protection of their liberty against
the growing power of the House of Hapsburg. Rudolph's son Albert in
particular endeavoured to rear the limited rights he enjoyed in these dis-
tricts into absolute sovereignty, and to incorporate them with his empire.
XI. HISTORY. xxvii
The ancient cantons therefore embraced the cause of the rival monarch
Adolp/i of Nassau, who confirmed their privileges. Victory, however,
favoured Albert, who again deprived the cantons of their privileges, but
does not appear to have treated them with much severity. To this period
belongs the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell, f
After the assassination of Albert by John of Swabia in 130S, Emperor
Henry VII., who was also an opponent of the Hapsburgers, conferred a
charter of independence on the Forest Cantons. The House of Hapsburg
regarded this as an infringement of their rights, and sent a powerful
army against these cantons, which after the death of Henry had declared
their adherence to Lewis the Bavarian, the opponent of Frederick the
Handsome. This army was destroyed at the Morgarlen (p. 98) in 1315.
Subsequent attempts to subject the country to the supremacy of the
House of Hapsburg were frustrated by the victories of the Swiss at Sem-
pach (p. 20) in 1386, at Nafels (p. 59) in 1388, and at the Sloss (p. 54)
in 1405.
In the Burgundian parts of the country too the nobility were jealous
of the increasing importance of the towns, and therefore attempted to con-
quer Bern, but were defeated by the citizens at Laupen (p. 199) in 1339.
In 1354 a confederacy was formed by eight independent districts and
towns, which soon became powerful enough to assume the oftensive, and
at length actually wrested the hereditary domain of Hapsburg from the
dukes of Austria, who tried in vain to recover it.
Even Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the mightiest prince of his
time, was defeated by the Swiss at the three battles of Grandson (1476,
p. 198), Moral (1476, p. 204), and Nancy, while at an earlier period a large
body of irregular French and other troops, which had been made over lo
Austria by the King of France, sustained a severe check from the con-
federates at St. Jacob on the Birs (1444, p. 8).
In the Swabian war (1499) the bravery and unity of the Swiss achieved
another triumph in the victory of Dornach (p. 9). At that period their
independence of the emperor was formally recognised, but they continued
nominally attached to the empire down to 1648.
The last-named victory formed a fitting termination to a successful
career of two centuries, the most glorious in the history of Switzerland.
At the beginning of the 16th century a period of decline set in. The
enormous booty captured in the Burgundian war had begotten a taste lor
wealth and luxury, the demoralising practice of serving as mercenary
troops in foreign lands began to prevail, and a foundation was laid for
the reproachful proverb, 'Pas d'argent, pas de Suisses T
The cause of the Reformation under the auspices of Zwingli was
zealously embraced by a large proportion of the population of Switzerland
about the beginning of the 16th century ; but the bitter jealousies thus
sown between the Roman Catholic and the Reformed Cantons were
attended with most disastrous consequences, and in the civil wars which
ensued bloody battles were fought at Kappel (p. 71) in 1531, at Villmergen
in 1656, and during the Toggenburg war (p. 5S) in 1712.
Traces of unflinching bravery and of a noble spirit of self-sacrifice in
the cause of conscience are observable in individual instances even at the
close of the 18th century, as e.xampled by the affairs of Rothenthvrm
(p. 98) and Stans (p. 117), but the national vigour was gone. The resist-
t The legend of the national hero of Switzerland, as well as the story
of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is destitute of historical
foundation. No trace of such a person is to be found in the work of John
of Winterthur (Vitoduranus , 1349) or that of Conrad Justinger of Bern
(1420), the earliest Swiss historians. Mention is made of him for the first
time in the Sarner Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently em-
bellished by .ffigidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 1542), and still more by Jo-
hann v. Miiller (d. 1809), while Schiller's famous play has finally secured
to the hero a world-wide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with among
various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders.
xxviii XI. STATISTICS.
ance of individuals to the invasion of the Frencli republicans proved fruit-
less, and the Ilelvelian Republic was founded on the ruins ol the ancient
liberties of the nation. In 1803 Napoleon restored the cantonal system,
and in accordance with resolutions passed by the Congress of Vienna in
1815 the constitution was remodelled. The changes introduced in conse-
quence of the revolution of .July, 1830, were unhappily the forerunners of
the civil war of the Sonderbund, or Separate League, in November, 1847;
but this was of short duration, and on 12th September, 1848, a new
federal constitution was inaugurated. Since that period the public tran-
quillity has been undisturbed, and the prosperity and harmony which nov7
prevail throughout the country are not unworthy of the glorious traditions
of the past.
Area and Population
acconliiig'to the decennial census of 1st Dee. 1880.
Sq.
Leagues
Con f ession.
Totals.
Pop.
Cantons.
Rom.Cath.
Prot.
Jews
Sects
league
1. Zurich . .
2. Bern . . .
3. Lucerne . .
4. Uri . . .
5. Schwyz . .
6. Untenoald .
7. Glanis . .
8. Zn'J . . .
9. Freiburg .
10. Holeure . .
11. Bdle-ville .
Bale-camp. .
12. Schaffhausen
13. Appeiizell .
(Rhodes ext.)
(Rhodes int.)
14. St. Gallen .
15. Orisons . .
16. Aargau .
17. Thurgau
18. Ticino . .
19. Vaud . .
20. Yalais . .
21. Neuchdtel .
22. Geneva . .
74,8
294
54
47
40
33,.s
29,8
10,2
34,5
1,5
18,5
12,9
10,7
87,7
304,1
60,4
42,8
121,0
138,7
226,5
34,7
12,2
30,298
65,828
129,190
23,149
50,266
26,979
7,065
1,218
97,113
69,008
19,286
12,099
4,165
3,694
12,294
126,177
41,753
88,914
27,122
130,093
18,169
99,327
11,712
51,620
283,134
463,163
5,402
524
954
367
27,097
21,734
18,138
17,130
44,238
46,679
33,890
48,088
545
83,429
53,139
108,029
71,821
356
219,439
854
91,040
48,310
806
1,316
152
7
7
2
7
27
104
139
830
233
30
18
1
380
38
1,236
120
11
578
677
671
3,338
1,857
62
14
8
44
15
45
147
747
270
263
158
1
505
61
466
489
317
544
35
303
994
317,576
532,164
134,806
23,694
51,235
27,348
34,213
22,994
115,400
80,424
65,101
59,271
38,348
51,958
12,841
210,491
94,991
198,645
99,552
130,777
238,730
100,216
103,732
101,595
4,234
1,810
2,496
630
1,280
816
1,140
2,299
1,625
2,329
43,400
3,230
2,949
4,723
1,835
2,392
312
3,275
2,315
1,072
1,717
444
2,965
8,466
Total . . . 1769,3
Census of 1870 —
1,161,055
1,084,665
1,666,984
1,566,001
7,.380
7,007
10,683
11,430
2,846,102
2,669,095
1,608
1,.50S
Increase . .
-
76,390
100,983
371
737
177,007
100
The provisional returns of the census taken on Deer. 1st, 1888,
give the total population at 2,920,547.
I. NORTHERN SWITZERLAND.
1. Bale 2
From Bale through the Birsigthal to Fliihen. Lands-
kron ; Mariastein, 8.
2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Miinsterthal 9
From Delemont to Porrentniy, 10. — Ascent of the
Weissensteln from Miinster, 10. — From Bevilard over
the Montoz to Reuchenette, 10. — The Pierre Pertuis.
Macolin, 11.
P). From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Solenre .... 12
From Liestal to Waldenburg; Langenbriick, 12. — The
Schafmatt; Eptingcn; the Frohburg,13. — The Neu-W art-
burg ; Lostorf, 13. —Fridau. FromSoIeure to theWeissen-
stein, 15. — From Soleure to Burgdorf; to Lyss, 16.
4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenhuchsee 16
From Ilerzogenbuchsee to Soleure, 17. — From Burg-
dorf to Langnau, 17.
5. From Bale to Ziirich 17
Konigsfelden ; Vindonissa, 18. — From Brugg to Wohlen,
18. — From Wettingen to Oerlikon, 19.
6. From Bale to Lucerne 20
From Zoflngen to Suhr, 20.
7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg ... 21
From Aarau to Muri and Rothkreuz-, Bremgarten, 21. —
From Aarau to Baden, 21. — The Habsburg, 22.
8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance 22
From SingentoEtzweilen, 24. — The Island of Reichenau,
24. — Steamboat from Schaft'hausen to Constance, 24.
9. The Falls of the Rhine 25
10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance 27
The Mainau, 30.
11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur( Ziirich) 30
12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 31
13. Ziirich and the Uetliberg 32
14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and Walenstadt 39
i. Steamboat on the Lake of Zurich 39
The Pfannenstiel, 39. — Hiitten. From Richterswyl to
Schindellegi, 40.
ii. Railway on the Left (S.) Bank from Ziirich to Zie-
gelbriicke (Glarus) 41
The Waggithal, 41.
iii. Railway from Ziirich to Rapperswyl, Weesen, and
Sargans 42
The Bachtel, 42. — Rieden, 43. — Biberlikopf ; Amden;
Speer, 44. — From Muhlehorn over the Kerenzenberg
to Mollis, 45. — TheMurgthal; the Koththor; the Wider-
stein-Furkel and Murgsee-Furkel ; JIiirtschenstock,45. —
From Walenstadt over the Kiiserruck to Wildhaus in the
Toggenburg, 45. — The Alvier. From Mels through the
Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser-Thal to Vattis, 46.
Bakdkkkk, Switzerland. 13lh Edit!
2 Route 1. BALE, noleh.
15. From Ziirich to liomanshorn and Friedrichshafen . . 46
From Ooi'likon to Dielsdorf; Regcnsl)erg, 40. — • From
Wintcrthur tii Waldslmt , 47. — From Winterthur to
Kiiti (T()sstli;il Raihv;iy), 47. — From Frauenfeld (oWyl,
47. — From Siilgcn to (jossau, 47.
16. From Ziirich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . 47
From Winkeln to Appenzcll, 48. — Excursions from St.
Gallen; llieFreudenberg; Untere and UbereWaid,etc.,49.
— Excursions from Rorscliach ; the Martinstobel ; the
Muttelischloss; Walzenhausen ; Meldegg; Horn, 50. —
Excursions from Lindau, 51.
17. The Canton of Appenzell 51
Chapelof St. Anthony; theKaien, Viigelisegg, Gabris, and
Stoss, 53,54. — From the Weissbad over the Hohe Kaslen
to the Valley of the Rhine, 55. — The Wildkirchli and
Ebenalp, 55,56. — The Sentis, 56. — From the Weissbad
toWildhaus; Altmann, 57. — Teufen; Friilichsegg, 57.
18. From Wyl througli the Toggenhurg to Buchs in the
Rhine Valley 58
Ascent of the Speer from Ebnat or Nesslau, 58. — From
Nesslau over the Kriizern Pass to Urniisch, 5S.
19. From Zurich to Glarus and Linththal 59
The Rautispitz, Obersee, and Scheye, 60. — The Schild;
Fronalpstock; Oberblegisee, 61.- — Saasberg and Kiirpf-
stock,61. — Excursions from Stachelberg, 62. — The Pan-
tenbriicke, IJelialp, Upper Sandalp, and Todi, etc., 62, 6i.
— From Linththal over the Kisten-Pass to Ilanz, 63.
20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klaiisen 63
21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 65
From the Muottathal to Altdorf over the Kinzig Pass,
and to Stachelberg bv the Bisithal, 65. — The Gliir-
nisch, 66.
22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal .... 67
From Elm over the Segnes Pass to Films; over the
Panixer Pass or the Sether Furka to Ilanz, 68. — From
Elm over the Ramin Pass to Weisstannen. 68. — From
Elm over the Sardona Pass, the Scheibe Pass, or the
Muttenthaler Grat to Viittis, 68. — From Elm over the
Richetli Pass to Linththal, 68.
1. Bale.
Railway Stations. The Baden Station (PI. F, 1), at Klein-Basel,
is on the ri'j;ht bank of the Rhine. The Baden time is 4 min. in advance
of the Swiss. — The Alsace and the Swiss lines both start from the Cen-
TKAi. Station (PI. D, E, G) in Bale, on the S. side of the town. These
two stations are connected by a junction-line, crossing the river (10 min. ;
fares 1 fr., 70 c., 50 c.). Omnibus, see p. 3.
Hotels. *Trois Rois (PI. a ; D, 2, 3), on the Rhine, R., L., & A. 4V2-6'A'5
B. 11/2, D. 5 fr. At the Central Station, to the right: "Hotel Suisse (PI. c;
E, 6), R. <fe A. 3V2-4i/i, D. 4-5 fr. ; '■'Hotel National (PI. d; E, 6), R., L., &
A. 3i/-.>-4 fr., these two of the first class; 'Hotel Victoria (PI. e; E, 6);
Hotel St. GoTTHAnn. To the left of the station: Hotel Euler (PI. b;
IJ, 6), R., L., & A. 31/2-572, omnibus 1 fr., tirst-class ; 'Hotel Hofer (PI. f;
D, 6), K. & A. 3-31/2, B. IV4 fr. ; Hotel Jura, small. — In the town : "Faucon
(PI. g; 1), 6), corner of the Elisabcthen-Str., R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; 'Sohike (PI. h;
^ Freiburg
OlteiL, Ktieinf eldeiv
GeograplL. Anat. v: Wagner ii Debes.Lpn^ti^
Bridges^. BALE. /. nmilf. 3
D, 4), R. & A. 2V2-3, B. 1 fr. ; Sauvage (PI. i ; D, 4); "Cigogne (PI. k ; D, 3),
R. & A. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; Hotel Central (PI. o; D, 4), opposite the post-office;
*CoDRONNE (PI. 1; D,3), 'Bellevue (PL m; 1), 3), both on the Rhine; 'Post
(PI. n; D, .3, 4). — At Klein-Basel: -Hotel Krafi'T (PI. p; K, 3), R. & A. 3,
B. l'/4, D. 3 fr., Croix Blanche (PI. q ; E), 3j, R. & A. 2'/;!-3 fr., both on the
Rhine; Hotel de Bale (PI. r; F, 2), R. & A. 3, B. l'/4 fr. ; Hotel Schrie-
DER (PI. s; F, 1), near the Baden Station, moderate, R. 2, B. 1 fr.
Cafes. Trois Rois , on the Rhine; Kunsthalle; Stadt- Casino; Cafi
National (Kleinbasler GeselUchaftshMis), liy the old bridge, with a terrace. —
Confectioners (who sell 'Basler Leckerli"}. Wii'z, near the old bridge;
Kissling-Kuentzy^ Freie-Str. 19; Burckhardt, Steiger, both in the Schneider-
gasse ; HiJrter, at Klein-Basel ; etc.
Restaurants. At the "Central Station; Kibigei\ Barfiisser-Platz; Bier-
halle zum Parsifal.. Frele-Str. 49 (Munich beer); Biihlers Bierhalle, Steinen
suburb, in the 'old German' style, good cooking (in summer, Biihler's Bier-
garien, in the Sternengiisslein). Wine at the Velllinerhnlle, Freie-Str. and
at the Schiitzenhaus (good stained glass). — In Klein-Basel: at the Baden
Station; Burgvogtei, with a 'Bierhalle' and garden; Warteck Brewery, near
the Baden station; Oescfiger, Biehcnthor-Str. 27. — " Sommer- Casino (PL
F, 6), near the St. Jacob Monument (p. 8), with a pleasant garden, music
on Wed. and Frid. at 7.30, on Sun. at 6 p.m. (50 c.); concerts also at the
Krlen-Park, l'/4 M. from Klein-Basel, and in the Zoological Garden (p. 8).
Omnibus (Stadtomnibus) between the Central and Baden Stations, cross-
ing the Alte Briicke. — Cabs. For 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons, 80 c. ; second ','4 hr.
()(), each additional 1/4 hr. 50 c. ; 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c., the second 1/4 br. 90,
each additional '/4 hr. 70 c. From either station into the town, 1-2 pers.
1 fr. 20 c. , 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 80 c. ; from one station to the other 1-2 pers. IV2,
3-4 pers. 21/2 fr., each box 20c. extra. At night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m.) 3fr.
for the first '/2 hr. and 1 fr. for each additional 1/4 br- j and 10 c. per '/4
hr. for lights.
Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. D 4) in the Freie-Str.; at the railway-
stations; in the Johannes suburb; and at the Schiitzengraben.
Baths in the Rhine (Tl. E, 3, 4), entered from the Pfalz (p. 5), 1 fr.
Warm baths : Sfauffer-Sckmid, Martinsgasse; Sigmiind, heoahaTd-StT.-, Zum
Brunnen, Fischmarkt.
Zoological Garden (p. 8); admission '/i fr.
Picture Gallery ('/2fr.) in the new Ktinst/ialle on the Steinenberg (p. 8);
another at Lang's, Freie-Str.
English Church Service in a chapel at the Hotel des Trois Rois.
United States Consul, George Gifford, Esq.
B&le, or Basel (870'), the capital of the half-canton Bale-Ville
or Basel-Stadt (pop. about 70,000), is first mentioned in the year
374 under the name oSBasilea, having prohably been founded by the
Roman armies, when they fell back on the Rhine, near the old Colonin
Augusta Rauracorum, which had been established in B. C. 27 by
L. Munatius Plancus (now Basel- Augst, b^/2 M. to the E. , see
p. 17). In the middle ages Bale was a free town of the Empire,
and it has been a member of the Swiss Confederation since 1501.
Tlie principal town lies on the left bank of the Rhine, and is
connected with Klein -Basel by three bridges. The wooden Alte
Briicke (PI. D, E, 3). 165 yds. in length and 16 yds. in breadth,
is partly supported by stone piers. In the middle of the bridge rise
a chapel of the 16th cent, and a column with a barometer and
weather-cock. Above the old bridge the river is crossed by the
iron Wettstein Bride (PI. F, 4), completed in 1879, with three
spans, 200 ft. in width. At each end of the bridge are two basilisks,
the lieraldic symbol of Bale. Below the old bridge is the tive-
1*
4 Route 1. BALE. Miinsler.
arched Johanniter Bridge (PI. D, 1), completed in 1882, wliich
commands a fine view.
The *Miin8ter (PI. E, 4), a picturesque edifice of red sand-
stone , with two conspicuous towers , was formerly the cathedral
of the see of Bale. The bishopric, founded by Charlemagne,
was transferred, in consequence of the puritanical outrages, to
Porrentruy (p. 10) in 1529, and afterwards to Soleure (p. 14).
The Munster was built by the Emp. Henry II. in 1010-1019,
and was restored in 1185 after a fire. In 1356 the old building was
almost demolished by an earthquake, but it was afterwards rebuilt
in the Gothic style. The Toivers, which are 218' in height, were
not completed till 1500. Of the original structure the N. porta], or
St. Qallus gateway (built about 1200), still exists, and is adorned
with statues of the Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints;
over the church-door is a relief representing the wise and foolish
virgins; at the sides in six niches are the works of charity, and at
the top Christ on the Judgment-seat and the angels at the last day.
The W. Front under the towers, with the principal portal and two
side-entrances, belongs to the 14th cent. ; on the facade are represented
the Virgin and Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder
and benefactor of the church, with the Empress Kunigunde ; on the
two side-entrances are two knights, on the left St. George and the
Dragon, and on the right St. Martin. The exterior has recently
undergone a thorough restoration.
The Interior is open to the public in summer on Wed., 2-4 p.m.-,
at other times 50c. (mediseval collection and council-hall 50c. extra, see
lielow). The sacristan lives in the Mvinsterplafz No. 13, but in summer he
is generally to be found in the church (knock). The church, which is 71
yds. long and 35>/2 yds. wide, was skilfully restored in 1852-56, and is
embellished with good modern stained glass. The beautiful rood-lolt of 1381
serves to support the large new organ. The pulpit dates from 1486. The aisles
and choir contain old monuments and tombstones built into the walls. In the
N. aisle is a Gothic sacerdotal chair of the 14th cent. ; we also observe a
curious relief of the Uth cent, (martyrdom of St. Vincent). The font is of
1465 ; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of
Rotterdam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the retro-choir are
monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Hapsburg
and mother of Albert I. , and of her youngest son Charles. The crypt
is now occupied by the stoves used in heating the church. — In 1431
the great Council began to sit in the Miinster. It consisted of upwards of
500 clergymen, including many great dignitaries, whose ostensible task
was a 'reformation of the Church in head and members'; but after having
disputed for years without any result, and having been excommunicated
by Pope Eugene IV., it was at last dissolved in 1448.
The 'Mediaeval Collection, which occupies the three floors of the building
adjoining the church, is very interesting (open to the public on Sun., 10.30
to 12.30; at other times adm. '/a fr., on application at Miinster-Platz 13;
illustrated catalogue in French and German, 1/2 fr., recommended to
other than hasty visitors, as the attendants cannot give full information).
Ground Floor. Vestibule: antiquities of the flint period; archi-
tectural fragments chiefly from churches of Bale; and the '■LciUenkoniij\
a curious piece of mechanism not older than the end of the 17th cent.,
formerly on the exterior of the tower (removed in 1839) of the Rhine
bridge. The later story that this head was erected in derision of
Museum. HALE. /. Route. 5
the Austrians to whom Klein-Basel was pledged in 1375-92 is a mere
myth. — The Waffenhalle , or armoury, contains the chief curiosities
of the arsenal of Bale; in the middle are interesting cannon of the
15th and 16th cent. ; to the right, by the window, a suit of armour
supposed to have belonged to Charles the Bold. — A winding staircase
ascends to the rooms of the First Floor. In the C'onciliums - Saal , or
council-hall, the Council of Bale held their sittings in 1431-48. Along the
walls are arranged numerous casts of mouldings from churches of Bale;
also eighteen fragments of the famous -Death Dance of Bale , a fresco
which once adorned the wall of the Dominican burial-ground (taken down
in 1805), painted early in the 15th century. On a long table in the centre
are models of buildings in Bale and of castles in the environs ; large winged
*Altar by J. Strigel of Memmingen (1512). — We next enter the Saal fur
Profaiiarchitectur, which contains panels, tiles, stone slabs, and other
fragments from houses in Bale and other parts of Switzerland. — In the
following room, ihe Saal fur Hausalterthiimer, is a collection of mediaeval
furniture, tapestry, porcelain, glass, jewel- caskets , and other articles
for domestic use. Beyond these is the 'Dining-room of the Cottmellor
Lucas Iseli7i, of Bale, with rich panelling in the choicest woods,
dating from 1607. The adjoining Gothic Room of 1460 contains a largo
bedstead of 1510 and other Gothic furniture. "Figures of Adam and Eve,
carved in box-wood (about 1500). — Two vaulted rooms on this floor
are devoted to the illustration of the history of Handicrafts : in the first
are fine specimens of ''Iron work, bindings of books, -Goldsmiths'' models,
etc. ; in the second, the ecclesiastical treasures remaining after the division
of the canton in 1833, large guild-vessels, gold ornaments from churches
of Bale, fragments of stoves, and a collection of tiles. — Halfway up
to the next floor is a kind of gallery containing a collection of Domestic and
Kitchen Utensils, chiefly from mediaeval Bale.
Second Floor. The Saalfiir Mnsikalische Alterthilmer contains interest-
ing specimens of old musical instruments, showing in particular the deve-
lopment of the piano and wooden wind-instruments. — In the Saal fiir
kirchliche AUerthimer are altars, carved wood, bronzes, and an enamelled
bronze 'Votive Tablet presented by Puchess Isabella of Burgundy in 1433. —
The Saal fiir Costiime is chiefly devoted to Bale costumes of the 17th and
ISth centuries. — Lastly, the Saal fiir Rechis- und Staatsalterthiimer con-
tains the weights and measures of Bale of the 14-lSth centuries.
On the S. side of the choir are extensive *Cloisters, constructed
in the 15th cent., restored in 1869-73, and used until recently as
family burial-places. They extend to the Pfalz, a terrace behind the
Miinster, 65 ft. ahove the Rhine, planted with chestnuts, and
affording a pleasing survey of the green river and the distant hills
of the Black Forest, the outliers of the Jura, and (in clear weather)
of the Vosges. Behind the Miinster, on the W, side of the cloisters,
is a statue of (Ecolampadius ; and in the neighbourhood (^Baumlein-
gasse 18) is the house of Froben and Erasmus.
In the Augustinergasse, which descends from the Miinsterplatz
towards the N.W. to the bridge, is the *Museum (PI. E, 3; open
on Sun., 10.15-12.30, and in summer on Wed., 2-4 o'clock; engrav-
ings, Thurs. and Sat., 2-5; at other times fee 50 c. for 1 or 2
persons, 25 c. for each additional pers.), containing a natural history
collection and (on the upper floor) a picture-gallery and collection
of antiquities.
The Picture Gallery is chiefly interesting on account of its collection
of paintings and drawings bv the vounger Bolbein (b. at Augsburg 1497,
d. in London 1543), who liVed at Bale in 1515-26 and 1528-32. The
Staircase is adorned with frescoes of Grea, Flora, and Apollo by BOckliii,
6 lioule 1. BALE. Museum.
cartoons by Cuntelius, Schnorr, and Steinle, stained g;lass, and a statue of
Jason Willi the golden lleecc, in marble, by Schloth. "ITS. Beiuier, Street
in Capri. — Antk-Uoom. Seven fragments of Holbein's obliterated frescoes
in the Council Chamber and old and modern copies from them ; painted
organ-shutters from the Miinster, by Holbein. — Room to tiik left.
Moi>EKS Swiss .Masteus. To the left: Bocklin, 10. Lady with a green veil,
15. Life a dream, '"ll. Pieta, ''14. Kaiads, '■'12. Battle of Centavirs; 27. Ed.
niravdet. Fortune-teller; '21. Ziind, Forest landscape with the Prodigal
Son; '43. Stejfnn, Forest landscape; Bocklin, "43. Sacred grove, "9. Diana
hunting; 20. Ziiiid, Harvest; 37. Bm-zaghi-C'attaneo, Tasso and Leonora;
45. Dielhelm Meyer, Girl of the Valais; Ed. Girardei, 26. Wounded Turcos,
28. Arabs drinking coUce; 49. Slaebli, River scene; 54. Ruedisiihli, Marshy
ground; 48. Grab, Pestaloz/.i; 50. S. Oiirand, Wandering musicians; 29.
Van lifttt/deii, Italian street scene; *35. Gleure, Pentheus pursued by the
Jlwnads; 51. Bachmanii, Christmas in the Canton of Lucerne; Roller, 32,
33. Cows at water, 31. Horses on a road through a dale; 57. Castan, Har-
vest; *18. Anker, Children's breakfast; Vautier, '-16. Rustic debtor com-
pelled by a rich neighbour and his agent to sell his property, '-17. The
involuntary confession; 8. Sliickelberg , Earthquake at Bale; '23. Ziind,
Noon; 24. Ed. Girurdet , Snow-balling; Sliickelberg, *7. The painter's
children, -6. Marionettes, *5. Festival of St. Mary in the Sabine Mts. ; 2,
3. Calame , Forest landscapes; 38. Barzaghi-Catlaneo , Lady performing
music; '9. Anker, Quack; 36. Gleyre, Nymph; "l. Calame, Alpine land-
scape; 55. Ruedisiihli, Rocky scenery. — 'Dkawings. The cabinets contain
a rich cnllection. On the walls: 5-13. Schongauer; 15-27a. H. Holbein
the Elder; *30-32. A. Diirer; 33. //. Schdufelin; 34. H. Sebald Belnim-, -37-
41. //. Baldting Grien; '44-53 and 58. Nick. Manuel Deutsch; 54-57. Urs
Graf; "*61-138 and 142. H. Holbein (he Younger. Among the last should
particularly be observed: HI. F'amily of Sir Thomas More (presented to
Erasmus), "113. Combat of foot-soldiers, 114. Samuel and Saul, 123-128.
Feminine costumes of Bale, 91-100. The Passion. Then: 139-141. Ambrose
Holbein; *152. Nich. Glockendon; 158. Rembrandt; 160. Raphael. In a glass-
case the original of Holbeiii's Praise of Folly. — Large S.\loox, N. end
(beautiful view towards the Blauen in fine weather). Continuation of
Modern Swiss Masters. '-39. Barzaghi - Caltaneo , Fiesco ; 62. Buchser ,
Capuchins and worldlings; ''69. Bocion, The harbour of Ouchy ; 63. Boss-
hardt, Hans von Hallwyl at the battle of Morat; 64. Veillon, Venice;
41, 42. Sleffan, Mountain landscapes; 278. Schnorr, 'Domine quo vadis';
277. Overbeck, Death of St. Joseph; "40. Zwengauer, Sunset. — Large
Saloon, 1st section. H. Holbein (he Younger, 6a. and 6b. Schoolmaster''s
signbiiard %i 1516; -7. Erasmus; 10. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer and
his wife; *11. Last Supper; 13. Ecce Homo; "'■'14. The Passion in eight
separate scenes, formerly in the Rathhaus; *15. The dead body of Christ,
of startling realism; "''16. Portrait of Boniface Amerbach; "17. Erasmus;
'18. Lais Ciirinthiaca, the portrait of a lady of the noble family of
OlTenburg; 19. The same lady with Cupid; '-20. Wife and children of
the painter; 21. A London merchant; 28. Portrait of the printer Frobcii ;
23, 24. Ambrose Holbein, Portraits of boys; M. GrUnewald , 32. Cruci-
fixion, 33. Resurrection; Hans Laldung Grien, 34. Crucifixion, 35. Nati-
vity, 36. 37. Pictures wiih figures of Death; 41-43. N. Manuel Deutsch;
.58, 59. Tob. Slimmer, Full-length portraits of Jac. Schwytzer and his wife
(1.564). — 2nd Section. 65-72. School of Gerrit van S(. Jans; Dutch Mas-
ters of the 15th cent., 73. Pius Joachim. 74. Coronation of the Virgin;
101-3. Lucas Cranach (he Elder; 109. H. met de Bles('!), Adoration of the
Magi. — 3rd Section. "118. Rubens, Christ bearing the cross (a sketch);
'12i4. Peter Thys, Pieta ; 125. Dirk van SandvooH, Woman singing and flute-
player ; 126. /. 13. Weenix, Italian landscape; 137. Kavel dii Jardin, Trum-
jieter on horseback; 13S. Berghem, Cattle crossing a ford; 139. C. Dusarl,
Rustic scene; 144. Rombonls, Forest scene; 146. S. Ilnysdael , Landscape;
"156. Dutch Master, Forest scene; 165. (Jld copy of Raphael's Joanna of
.\ragon. — 5ti! Section. 265. Jos. Koch. Macbeth and the witches; Leopold
Robert, 288. Bandils' wives in flight, 289. Wounded bandit and his .wife;
290. Aur. Robert, Interior of St. Mark's at Venice; 292-296. J. Frey, South-
Kathlmus. BALK. 1. Route. 7
ern landscapes; '300. Diday, Scene on the Lake of Bricnz ; 30. Landerer,
Federal representatives entering Bale in 1501 to administer tlie federal
oath to the town; 306. Lessing, Forest landscape; 307. Feuerhach^lHyl. —
Sculptures in the picture-gallery: Antique heads of Apollo and Hercules;
Ivihof, Rebecca; Kissling, Kunner; Sc/ilee(h, Psyche (marble statues). —
MoDEKN Drawings (line old inlaid council-table). 2-23. Iless, Schraudolji/i,
and J. C. Koch, Cartoons for the frescoes in St. Boniface at Munich; cartoons
by Overbeck (26-35), Schwind (36-40), Genelli (41, 43), /. C. Koch (59, 50),
Cornelius (51, 52; drawings for the Last Judgment), etc.
Collection of Antiquities. In the first room are casts, coins and
medals, and a handsome antique cabinet. In the next room are vases,
mosaics, and other antiquities, chiefly found near Angst (p. 3). On the
ground-floor a room containing Mexican, Chinese, and Japanese antiqui-
ties; in the following room are various objects from lake-dwellings.
The University Library in the same building (open 10-12 and 2— i)
contains about 200,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. ; among the latter are
the transactions of the Council, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc.
The LWyersiii/ (350 students), founded in 1459 by Pius II. , was
once famous for its mathematicians BernouilU, Merian, and Euter.
The hall contains upwards of 100 portraits of scholars of Bale,
including the cosmographer Sebastian Munster (d. 1552), the re-
formers (Ecolampadius and Grynaeus, and the theologians, DeWette
(d. 1849) and Alex. Vintt (d. 1847). In front of the aula are ten mar-
ble busts, by Schloth, of professors of Bale of the present century.
The Kathhaus(Pl. D, 3), or Town Hall, in the Market-place
(No. 13), was erected in 1504, and restored in 1824-28. The hand-
some ^Council Hall in the interior is adorned with carvings and
stained glass. The court contains a Statue of Munatius Plancus
(p. 3), erected here in 1580.
The old fortifications have been almost entirely removed , and
their site converted into promenades ; but the handsome Spalen-
Thor (PI. C, 3), on the W. side of the town, erected about the
year 1400, the St. Albansthor (PI. G, 5) on the S. , and the St.
Johannthor (PI. C, 1) on the N., have been restored. In the Hebel-
Str., near the Spalenthor, is the house where Hebel (1760-182G)
was born, with a tablet.
Other Medieval Structures deserving mention are the late-Go-
thic Fishmarket Fountain (PI. D, 3), of the 15th cent., restored in
1851 ; the Spalen Fountain, with a bagpiper supposed to have been
designed by Holbein ; the liebhuus Fountain, in the Riehenthor-
Strasse (PI. F, 3; the pillars of the last, which had become injured
by time, have been replaced by faithful copies); and the Roman
archway in the old St. Alban's Monastery (PI. F, 4). — The Bar-
fiisser-Kirche (PI. D, E, 4), dating from the beginning of the
14th cent., with its very lofty choir, is now used as a storehouse.
— The Church of St. Martin (PI. I). H), was restored in 1851,
when the choir was skilfully adapted as a Protestant place of worship.
— The large Gothic (Rom. Oath.) Church of St. Clara (PI. E, 2) at
Klein-Basel has been recently restored.
Foremost among the Modern Buildings of Bale is the Gothic
*St. Elisabethenkirche (PI. E, 5), erected by Hr. Meriau-Burck-
8 Route 1. BALE.
liardt (d. 1858). The interior is worth seeing;, especially the fine
stained glass from Munich. — Near it, on the Steinenberg, is the
Eunsthalle (PI. IZ, 6; built by Stelilin; adm. 50 c), containing a
collection of modern pictures and sculptures. Connected with it are
a large garden and a restaurant, the latter adorned with good mural
paintings by Brunner. On the staircase are frescoes by Stiickelberg.
Between the St. Elisabethenkirche and the Kunsthalle is the new
Sculpturhalle , containing plaster-casts. Next the Kunsthalle is the
Theatre, opposite which is the Musiksaal, both designed by Stehlin.
To the N. W. of the Petersplatz (PL C, 3) is the Bernoallianum,
belonging to the university, an edifice for the study of physics,
chemistry, and astronomy. The Vesalianum, to the S.W. , is the
new University institute for anatomy and physiology.
The Zoological Garden (PI. B, C, 6) , adjoining the 'Nachti-
gallcnwaldchen', outside the site of the Steinenthor, and about 2/4 M.
from the Central Station (adm. ^/o-i fr.}, contains admirable
examples of Swiss (mountain goats) and other animals. Concerts
are frequently given on Sun. afternoons.
The Konument of St. Jacob (PI. F, 6), near the Snmmer- Casino
(p. 3), by i^. Scliloih, completed in 1872, commemorates the heroism and
death of 1300 Confederates who opposed the Anuagnac invaders under
the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XI.) in 1444. Above is Helvetia in armour,
with a wreath ; on the pedestal are four falling warriors in marble. In-
scription : 'Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy W
The Missionary Institutions of Bale are deservedly in high repute.
The Mission House (PI. B, 3) educates missionaries for the promulgation
of Christianity. It contains an interesting ethnographical collection from
the E. Indies and W. Africa, and two large models of the Temple area
and Great Slosque at Jerusalem. — In the neighbourhood are several
charitable institutions: the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Riehen, 3 M. to
the N.E., the missionary institution on the Chrischona (1722'), 4 M. to the E.,
with splendid view, and the Reformatory at Bewjoen ^ 12 M. to the E.
(p. 22). — An excellent Society for the Promotion of the Public Welfare,
which has e.\isted at Bale for more than a century , has a very extensive
sphere of operation.
From Balk to Fluiien, 8 M., railway (Birsigthalbahn) in 50 minutes.
The train, starting from the local station in the Steinenthor-Str. (PI. D, 5),
passes the Zoological Garden (see above), and traverses the attractive and
fertile valley of the Birsiy. Stations: IVi M. Binningen ("Ilirsch; *Bar), a
large village with 4700 inhab. and the church f)f St. Margaret, commanding
a good view; PJt M. Botlminger-Miihle; 21/2 M. Bottmingen, with the Bott-
minger SchlOtschen (inn and pretty park), a favourite resort; 3 M. Oberuyl
(''Krone), with an extensive parquetry-factory; 41/4 M. Therwyl (Hossli),
a substantial village in the Leimenthal. The line now bends to the S. to
(5V2 M.) Etiingen (Badhaus), with a chalybeate spring, and thence skirts
the font of the mountains to the right via Witterswyl and Bdttwyl to (8 M.)
Fluhen (1250'; Inn and Baths), a small village with a chalybeate spring,
prettily situated in a recess of the valley at the foot of the Blanen. An
attractive excursion may be made to the W, from this point, via the Al-
satian village of Tannwald to the (IV2 M.) well-preserved ruin of *Landskron
(1890 ft.), the tower of which commands a wide view (key at the last house
in Tannwald). — A road leads to the S. from Fliihen to (I1/2M.) Mariastein
(IGSrV ; Kreuz; Post), formerly a Benedictine abbey, with a frequented
pilgrimage-church, picturesquely situated on a steep crag. A spacious rock
cavern beneath the church contains the chapel of Maria im Stein. From
Mariastein the Landskron may be reached via Tannwald in 25 minutes. —
MUNSTERTHAL. i>. Route. 0
The road goes on beyond Mariastein to Melzerlcn and (2'/4 M.) ISiirff (1735';
■inn), a charmingly-situated village with a mineral spring and a chateau
commanding line views. — The Blauen (2j'J0'), which may he ascended
from Ettingen (p. 8) or Mariastein in I1/2 hr., commands a wide prospect,
extending on the S.E. to the Bernese Alps.
2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the
Miinsterthal.
77 M. Railway (Jura, Bern, d- Lucerne Line) to Bienne (56 M.) in 3-4
hr.s. (fares 11 fr. 30, 9fr. 90, 5fr. 65 c.); from Bienne to Bern (21 M.) in I-I1/4
hr. (fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 90 c). [Railwav from Bienne to Neuchatel
(20 M.) in 3/4 -I'A lir. ; to Geneva (102 M.) in 51/4-71/4 hrs.; from Bale to
Geneva, e.xpress in 73/.i hrs. Through-carriages to Geneva and St. Maurice.]
The Kunsterthal, watered by the Birs , is the grandest and most in-
teresting valley in the whole Jura range. It consists of a succession of
defiles and narrow gorges, with pine-clad banks, while the broader basins
are enlivened with meadows, villages, mills, and factories. This valley,
which belongs to the ancient bishopric of Bale, aflforded the Romans a
route between Aventicmn (Avenches, see p. 203), the most important town of
Helvetia, and Angusia Rauracoru-m (Augst, see p. 3), one of their ad-
vanced posts on the Rhine. The railway through this beautiful valley
forms a most interesting approach from Bale to Western Switzerland.
Bale (870'), see p. 2. Leaving the Central Station, the train
soon diverges from the Central Line (p. 12) to the right, passes the
cemetery on the right, and near (3 M.) Monchenstein crosses the
Birs. On the hills to the left are several ruined castles. — 5 M.
Dornach-Arleshehn (Munzinger's Restaurant), near the hamlet of
Dornach-Brugg (*Ochs). On a wooded hill, li '2 M. to the E., near
Arlesheim [1130 ft. ; Lowe ; Ochs), rises Schloss Birseck, once a cha-
teau of the bishops of Bale, with a pleasant park, interesting grottoes,
and a hermitage. (Apply to the gardener at the foot of the hill.)
The train follows the right bank of the Birs. On the left is the
village of Dornach, with its picturesque ruined castle. 7 M. Aesch
(Ochs), a village on the left bank. The valley contracts. The train
passes through a tunnel under the modernised chateau of Angen-
stein, and enters the canton of Bern. On a hill to the right is the
picturesque ruin oi Pfeffingen (1850'). On the right, near (9'/4M.)
Grellingen (*Bar), are several factories. The train passes through a
deep cutting and crosses the Birs twice; the valley then expands.
Schloss Zicingen., on the right, was the seat of the episcopal governors
of the district, down to the first French revolution.
I41/.2M. Laufen(1155'; -Sonne) lies at the confluence of the Z/ufzei
and Birs. The train traverses a narrow, wooded valley. Beyond
(16 M.) Bdrschwyl it passes through two tunnels and crosses the
Birs twice. I81/2M. Liesberg. At (22'/2 M.) iS^au^ern, Fr.-Soj//iieres
(Hotel de la Gare) the language changes from German to French.
On the right is the ruined castle of that name. At the rocky egress of
the valley, before its expansion into a broad plain, lies Bellerive, on
the left, now a factory. On a hill to the right is the ruin of Vorburg.
241 2 M. Helemont, Ger.Delsberg (1430'; *Faucon,- *0«rs, mod-
erate; Lion d'Or; Hotel de la Gare, at the station; *Rail. Restau-
10 lioutelK MiJNSTER. From lirUe
rant) is an old town (3507 inhab.) on the Some, with a chateau of
the former Bishops of Bale.
Fkom DklIiMonx to PoRUENTKur, 18 M., railway in ^/t-V/t hr. (fares
3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 80 c). The line traverses the grassy valley of the
Some. Stations Coitrtetelle , Cour/aivre , Bassecourt, and (T'/z BI.) Qlovelier,
Ger. LieUngen. We next cross the large viaduct of Combe Maran, and
beyond a tunnel, 3200 yds. in length, and two others, reach (11 M.) Ste.
Ursanne (-Deux Clefs,- Bu.'uf), a picturesque^ old town in the romantic
valley of the Doubs (p. 194), with a ruined chateau on a lofty rock. An-
other tunnel pierces the Monl Terrible. Stat. Courgenay. Then (18 M.)
Forrentruy, Ger. Pruntrul (1457'; 'Ours; -Cheval Blanc), a considerable
liiwn (5614 inhab.) with an old chateau, once the residence of the Bishops
of Bale. XiliicUre, 7 M. to the \V. of Porrentruy, near the French frontier,
a large stalactite grotto has recently been discovered and made accessible.
— The line leads hence to Delle, the French frontier-station, Bel/orl, and
I'aris (express from Bale to Paris in O'A-ll hrs.).
The line traverses the valley towards the S.E. , and beyond
('26' A> M..} CourrendUn, Ger. Bennendorf (Cerf), enters the *Mun-
sterthal, Fr. VaL Moutier, a wild, romantic ravine of the Birs, flanked
witli huge limestone rocks. The line is carried through these 'Gorjres
de Moulier by means of a series of tunnels, galleries, and viaducts.
(A walk from Courrendlin to Miinster is recommended.) Above
(281/2 J^^O Choindez, and opposite the Glass Works of Roche, which
lie on the right bank of the stream, Ave traverse a tunnel, 100 yds.
in lengtli, and reach (291/2 M.) Roche (1650'; *Cheval Blanc,
moderate). The train threads five short tunnels in rapid succession,
crosses the Birs by a lofty bridge, and then, at the mouth of the
defile, the Rausbach.
32 M. Miinster, Fr. Moutier [il^O' ; * Hotel de la Gare, moderate).
The thriving village (1750'; *Cerf; Couronne; Cheval), with 2320
inhab. and a new Protestant church, is prettily situated in a green
dale, on the left bank of the Birs.
Ascent of the Weissenstkin erom Mijnstek (3'/2 hrs.-, comp. p. 15).
About 10 min. to the N.E. of Miinster, or 6 min. from the station, at the
Reslauranl Speriseii (good beer), a road (diligence to St. .Joseph daily at
2.55 p.m. in 1 hr.) ascends to the right to (2 Si.) Grarifelden (Fr. Orandval,
2010') and (Vi M.) Crimiiie (20G6' ; Croix). It next ascends the gorge of the
Raus to (2 BI.) Si. Joseph am Odnsbrunnen (Inn), at the N. base of the
Weissenstein , the Kurhaus on which (p. 15) may easily be reached hence
by the road in 1Vj-2 hrs. The footpath to the left is shorter (l'/-2 hr.).
^Carriage from Miinster to the Weissenstein 25 fr., there and back 30 fr.;
from Giinsbrunnen 15 fr.)
The line traverses another wild and very picturesque gorge,
tlic Roches de Court , high above the Birs , and beyond a long
tunnel reaches (So'/o M.) Court (2200'; Ours; Couronne).
From Court, or better from Bevilard (see below), a steep path crosses
the Montoz (4370') to (3 hrs.) Reiichenette (p. 11; guide advisable). View
similar to that from the Weissenstein.
We traverse pleasant grassy dales , pass Sorvilier, Malleray-
BeiHldrd, and Reconritier, and reach —
427.2 M. Tavannes, tier. Dachsfelden (2500'; Hotel de la Gare,
well spoken ol'J, a large village at the source of the Birs (branch-
line in 35 mill, to Tniuielan). The train ascends slightly, and pass-
es under the Pierre Pertuis by means of a tunnel (1500 yds.).
to Bern. BIENNE. 2. Route. 1 1
The Pierre Pertuis (pelra 2'erlusa;2o^^'), through which the high-road
pusses, is a natural opening in the rock, 30-40' high, and more than
once fortified in time of war. It bears a restored Roman inscription on
the N. side, which cannot be earlier than A.D. 161. This defile, the
highest point between Tavannes and Sonceboz, marked the limit of the
Helvetian province, and afterwards that of the bishoprics of Avenches,
Lausanne, and Bale.
The train descends the slope to the right, describes a sharp curve
between Sombeval and Corgemont, and crosses the Suze (or Scheussy
47 M. Sonceboz (2152'; Couronne; Cerf, well spoken ot), the
junction for La Chaux-de-Fonds (see p. 193).
The train crosses the Suze, and passes through a tunnel under
the S.W. spur of the Montoz (p. 10). The stream is crossed several
times In its beautiful wooded valley. oQi/o M. La Hcutte; 53 M.
Reuchenette (1942'; Inn, excellent trout). The line now suddenly
turns towards the S., and enters the narrow passage which the Suze
has forced through the last heights of the Jura range. Four tunnels
between this point and Bienne. On the right beyond the first tunnel
is a fall of the Suze, and on the hill is the ruined chateau of Rond-
chatel. Two more tunnels. Pleasant view of the green valley of
Orvin to the right. Beyond another long tunnel the train crosses
the deep and wild ravine of the "iiMze ( Tauhenloch)\>y a lofty bridge,
and quits the ravine. We now obtain a striking view of the rich
plains of Bienne , with the whole of the Alpine chain from the
mountains of Unterwalden to Mont Blanc in the distance. We then
descend vine-clad slopes to —
56 M. Bienne, Ger. Biel (1444'; *H6tel de Bienne, near the station,
K., L., & A. 21/2, B. 11/4, D. 3 fr. ; *H6t. Suisse, R. 21/2, B. 1 fr. ;
Couronne; Croix; *Vaisseau, on the lake; *Rail. Restaurant^ an an-
cient and thriving town (15,226 inhab.). The Museum Schwab,
founded by Col. Schwab, and presented by him to the town, is
an interesting collection of antiquities from the lake-villages,
Celtic and Roman weapons, implements, coins, etc. (open on Sun.
and Thurs., 2-4; at other times on application). The beautiful
avenues enclosing the town stretch to the N. end of the Lake of
Bienne, as far as (1 M.) Nidau , with its old chateau, near the
efflux, of the Zihl or Thiele (p. 190). Tramway from the station into
the town, to Nidau, and to the N. to Buzingen (Fr. Boujean).
A Wire-Rope Railway (station 7 min. to the N.W. of the railway
station at Bienne. where an omnibus is waiting) ascends in 20 min. to the
Kurhaus of 'Macolin, Ger. Magglingen (2960'; K., L., &. A. 4, I). 4, pens.
S-11 fr.), splendidly situated on the slopes of the Jura, I'/i hr. above
Bienne, and noted for its fine air. Large wooded grounds, and fine view
of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont Blanc. English Church Service in
summer. — Ascent of the Chasseval (5-6 hrs.), see p. 190.
From Bienne to Soleiire, see p. 16; to Neuchdtel and Genera, see R. 53.
The Railway from Biknne to Bkhn crosses the Zihl near
(58V2M.) Brihjij, and the Aare before (61 M.) Busswyl.
63 M. Lyss (Jlirsch ,• Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of the lines
to Payerne oil the S. (p. 204) and to Solcure on the N. (p. 16). — 64 '/i M.
12 Routed. LIKSTAL. From n,Ue
Subeuj ; G<S M. Schupfen ; 71 M. Miinchen-ISuclisee (*li<')t. Kwcli ;
Krone; Bilr), the scat of the cantonal seminary, which was trans-
ferred in 1885 to the former institute of E. v. Fellenberg zXHofwyl,
situated 1/2 M. to the E. On the right, the Bernese Alps from the
Jungfrau to the Balmhorn become visible , but soon disappear. —
73 M. ZoUikofen, a station on the Central Line (Bale-Herzogcn-
buchsee-Bern). Thence to (77 M.) Bern, see p. 17.
3. From Bale to Bienne via Olten and Soleure.
63 M. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 90, 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 45 c).
Bale, see p. 2. The train crosses the Birs. 3 M. Muttene. 5 M.
Pralteln, the junction for Ziirich (p. 17). On the Rhine, I'/a M. to
the N.W. (branch-railway in 10 min.) are the well-equipped salt-
baths of Schweizerhalle.
The line leaves the valley of the Rhine, enters the Jura Mts.
and follows the left bank of the Ergolz. Near (71/2 M.) Nieder-
Schonthal, on a hill to the right, lies Frenkendorf (ii20' ; Wilder
Mann; Liiwe), a pretty summer-resort. The best carriage -road
to (21/4 M.) Bad Schaueiiburg (see below) leads hence. Near Liestal,
on the loft, is the large prison of Canton Basel-Land, and beyond
it the Cantonal Hospital.
9 M. Liestal (1033'; 4848 inh.; *Falke, with salt-baths and
garden, pens, from 4fr.; Schliissel; Engel ; Sonne^, prettily situated
on the Eryolz, is the seat of government of the half-canton of Basel-
Land, or Bale-Campagne. In the council-hall is shown the cup of
Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the battle of Nancy (1477).
The collection of coins contains Roman and Swiss specimens. —
Btenenfterjr (Kurhaus, with salt-baths), I'^M. to the N.W. of Liestal,
is a pleasant summer -resort, and about 11/2 M. beyond it is Bad
Schauenburg (1590'), below the ruin of the same name (1975' ;
*View). — Carriage-road to Nieder-Schcinthal, see above.
To Waldenbukg, 8'/2 M , narrow-frauge railway in 1 hr., through the
pretty Frenkeiithal. I^j'i M. Bad Biibendorf, with mineral and salt baths.
(The village with its ruined castle lies 1 M. to the right.) 4 M. Lampenberg ;
5V2 M- Ilolstein, in a narrow part of the valley, with manufactories of
silk ribbon. Passing Niedeidorf and Oberdorf, wc reach (81/2 M.) Walden-
burg (1718'; Liiwe; Hililiisstl), a little town with a ruined castle and a
pretty church. A good road leads hence (diligence 4 times daily in 50 min.)
to (3 M.) Langenbruck ( Kurhaus, pens. 6-8 fr., with its dependancc
Oclisen ; Pens. Bider, etc.), sitiiated on the pass of the Obere Hauensteiii
(2355'), a (juict and pleasant hill sanatorium. — A high-road leads from
Langenbruck to the S.K. to Fridau and (5 M.) Egerkinyen (p. 14); another
to the S.W. to Jlolderbank, Balsilial, and through the Klus, a deiile for-
merly fortified, with the picturesque ruin of Falkenstein and the restored
chateau of Bechburg, to (10'/i> M.) Oensingen (p. 14).
11 M. Lausen. Near (13 M.) Sissach (1233'; Lowe), a thriv-
ing village, we pass (r.) the small chateau and park of Ebenrain.
Fine view from the Sissncher Fiuh (2398'), 1 hr. to the N.
From Sissach over the Schafmatt to Aarau (IS'/z M.). By diligence
to Oltingen in 2 hrs., via (2'/4 M.) Gellerkinden (1370'; *R6ssli), a manu-
to Bienne. OLTEN. .7. lioiite. 13
facturing village ; thence through a picturesque valley to the Hanggiessen
waterfall; (IV2 M-) Tecknau (1440'); to (IV2 M.) Wenslingen (I860') a steep
ascent; (iV2 M.) Oltingen (1942'; Ochs), with a mineral spring. The path
ascending the (Vzhr.) -Schafmatt (2516') diverges close to the 'Ochs', and
is easily found, being provided with finger-posts. The summit commands
an extensive panorama of the Jura and the Alps, which we enjoy until we
reach a point overlooking the deep valley of Rohr. Turning to the left
here, we reach the upper part of a meadow, at the foot of which ('/2 hr.
from the top) lies a chalet and whey-cure establishment. From this point
we enjoy a view of the environs of the Lake of Lucerne, the Rigi, Pi-
latus, etc., framed by the mountains between which we stand. From the
chalet to Aarau (p. 21) in I'/j hr., past the Laurenzenhad (p. 21), situated
in a side-valley to the left, and Erlishach.
To the S. of Sissach lies (7 M.; diligence twice daily in IV4 hr.
via Zunzgeii, Tennikeyi, and Biegten) Eptingen or Rtich-Eptingen (1873';
ICurhaus, with saline and mineral baths ; pens. 4-5 fr.) , situated in a
narrow valley at the base of the Hauenslein (footpath to Ldufelfingen, see
below, Ihr.; to Langenbnick, see above, li,4 hr.).
The train quits the Ergolzthal, turns to the S. into the narrow
and picturesque Homhurger Thai, and heyond (16 M.) Som-
merau passes through two tunnels. iQ^'o M. Ldufelfingen (^2008';
Sonne), at the foot of the Hauenstein.
On the summit of the Hauenstein, ascended in 3/^ hr. from stat. Laufel-
fingen via Reisen and Erlimous (each of which has a Kurhaus), is situated
the 'Frohburg (2772'; "Hotel <{■ Pension, R. 2\'i, B. I'A, pens. 6-7 fr.),
commanding a beautiful view of the Alps, from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ;
in the foreground the Wartburg (see below) and the Wiggerthal with the
railway to Lucerne ; on the right rises Pilatus, on the left the Rigi. About
10 niin. from the inn are some scanty ruins of a castle destroyed by an
earthquake. Descent by Trimhach in 1 hr. to Olten.
The train now enters the Hauenstein Tunnel, 29T0 yds. long,
during the construction of which in 1857 sixty -three workmen
were buried by a fall of earth. Beyond it we observe on a hill to
the right the small chateau of Neu- Wartburg (see below), to the
right of which, farther on, the Bernese Alps gradually become vis-
ible from the Wetterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The train descends
by a long curve to the Aare, crosses it, and ascends on the right
bank to the station of ■ —
241/2 M. Olten. — -Hotel Suisse, at the station, I?. 2, B. 1 fr.;
Hotel Wiss, moderate; Halbmond. — 'Rail. Restaurant.
Carriages generally changed here. Detention of '/4-'/2 hr. As we leave
the waiting-rooms, the trains for Bale and Ziirich are to the left, those to
Lucerne and Bern to the i-ight. Pocket-picking not uncommon here.
Olten (1296'; 4900 inhab.), the second town in the canton of
Soleure, prettily situated on the Aare, is the junction of the lines
to Aarau and Brugg (R. 7), to Aarburg and Lucerne (R. 6), to
Bern (R. 4), and to Soleure and Neuchatel (see below). The Parish
Church contains an Ascension by Disteli, and the Capuchin Church
a Madonna by Deschwanden. Extensive railway work-shops and
large shoe-manufactories.
To the S.E. of Olten, on an isolated hill on the right bank of the Aare,
rises the Neu-Wartburg or Sdlisc/iloss (2237'; 'Reslanraiil), a small chateau
recently restored. View similar to that from the Frohburg (see above). Good
paths from Olten and from Aarburg to the top in 3/i hr.
About 41/2 M. to the N.E. of Olten (<liligence twice daily in summer
in l'/i hr.) are the sulphur- baths of Lostorf (' Kurhaus, moderate, pens.
1 4 Rotde 3. SOLEURE. From Brde.
5 fr.), prettily situated at the foot of the Jura. On a cliff above {"< hr.)
rises the small chateau of Warten/els (2060'), with a line view.
P.eyoiul Olteii the train diverges to the right from the Rem and
Lucerne line (p. 10). crosses the Aare, and traverses the plain
watered by the Diinnern, at the base of the Jura. To the left the
view of the Alps from the Gliirnisch to the Altels is gradually un-
folded. 26 m. OUen-Hammer; 27 '/j M. Wangen; 29 M. Hdgen-
dorf; 31 M. Eyerkingen (Kreuz).
Diligence twice daily in 40 min. to Fridau (2300'; 'Kur/iaus, pens.
5'/2-6 fr.), situated on the slope of the .hira, and well fitted up. Beautiful
view of the Alps from Sentis to Mont Blanc. Shady grounds and extensive
wood-walks. The road also leads to Lant/enbi'uck, 3 31. farther (see p. 12;
diligence in summer daily).
32 M. Oherbuchsiten ; 36 M. Oensingen (diligence twice daily
in 1^/4 hr. to Langenbruck , p. 12); 37 M. Niederbipp (to the right
of which is Oberbipp , with a handsome modern chateau). At
(41 M.) Wangen the train crosses the Aare. Beyond Deitingen and
Luterbach we obtain a view of Soleure with the minster of St. Ours ;
to the right are the Riithe and the Kurhaus on the Weissenstein
(p. 15). The train crosses the Grosse Emme, not far from its con-
fluence with the Aare. — 47 M. Neu-Solothurn.
Soleure. — Soleure has two Kailwat Stations : Neu-Solothurn^ on
the right bank of the Aare f V2 M. from the new Aare bridge), and AU-
JSolothiirn, on the left bank, to the W. of the town. The Cathedral is
reached from either in 8 min., but for a visit to the town and the Weissen-
stein the station of Alt-Solothurn is on the whole more favourably situated.
Hotels. "^ Krone, R., L., & A. 3, B. IV4, D. 3 fr. ; Adler ; Hirsch ;
Thurm; Kreuz, R. 2, B. 1 fr. — Restaurant Wengistein, 1/2 M. to the N.E.,
near the 'Hermitage' (p. 16), with a garden and pleasant view.
Soleure, OT Solothurn (1424'; 8300 inhab.), on the Aare, a quiet
place, the capital of Canton Soleure , was incorporated with the
Confederation in 1481, and claims to be the oldest town on this side
of the Alps next to Treves. (^In Celtis nihil est Salodoro antiquius,
unis exceptis Treviris, quaruxn ego dicta sorof, is the inscription
on the clock-tower.) It was the Roman Salodurum, once a flourishing
settlement. The old ramparts have been almost entirely removed.
The Cathedral of St. Oues, a cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale
(p. 4), was built in 1762-73 on the site of an edifice of 1050, in the
form of a cross, surmounted with a dome and two half-domes. A
flight of 30 steps leads to the facade. One of the adjoining foun-
tains is adorned with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other
with a figure of Gideon wringing the dew from the fleece. The ten
large altar-pieces, dating from the latter half of the 18th cent., are
unimportant. The treasury, in the sacristy, contains some good
artistic work in metal and textile fabrics, chiefly of the 16-i8th
centuries.
The *AiiSKNAL, not far from the cathedral, contains the arms
of the cantonal militia, and on the second floor a collection of an-
cient armour, halberds, swords, Are -arms, and standards, taken
by the Confederates from the Atistrians, Bnrgnndians, and others.
to Biennr. WEISSENSTEIN. 3. Jinnte. 1 5
Among the curiosities is a mitrailleuse of the loth cent., adjoin-
ing which is an automaton. A large plastic group close to the en-
trance represents the reconciliation of the Confederates effected
at the Diet of Stans in 1481 by Nicholas von der Fliie (p. 1 18), from
a drawing by Disteli (d. 1844).
The oldest building in Soleure is the Clock Tower, recently
restored, which is said to have been erected in the 4th century B.C.,
but is really an early Burgundian building of the 5th or 6th cent.
A.D. The figures and mechanism of the clock are similar to those
at Bern (p. 134).
The Natural History Cabinet, in the suburb on the right bank of
the Aare, contains valuable collections of zoology and palteontology.
In the Cantonal School are a number of Roman and Medi(Tval An-
tiquities and the Cantonal Library. The Town Library contains
about 40,000 vols, and 200 incunabula, besides coins and medals.
The Municipal Picture Gallery, founded by the Kunstverein, possess-
es a *Virgin and Child, with SS. Ours and Martin of Tours, by
Holbein the Younger (1522).
The ■'Weissenstein (4220'), 3 hours' walk or drive to the N. of So-
leure, is deservedly a very favourite point of view. It is reached either
by the carriage - road via Ldngendorf and Oherdorf (two -horse carr. in
2'/2 hrs., 20 fr. and fee), or (preferable) by the footpath (guide or porter
4-5 fr.) ascending the Verenathal. Taking the latter, we pass the cathe-
dral of St. Ours, and through the handsome Bale gate, and then bear to
the left towards the Villa Cartier with its two towers, where we turn
to the right. Farther on we enter the avenue to the left, at the end of
which we turn to the right towards the church of St. Nicholas. Before
reaching the church our route passes the Restaurant Wengistein (p. 14)
and turns to the left into the *St. Verenathal (1 31. from Soleure), a
narrow, cool, and shady ravine, ','2 M. in length. The path to the left, at
the beginning of the gorge, leads to the Wengistein (see below). At the
other end of the valley are quarries of Portland limestone, where interesting
fossils are found. The blocks of granite on the neighbouring slopes are
believed by geologists to have been deposited by ancient Alpine glaciers.
This gorge is now converted into a promenade.
At the N. end of the ravine is the Hermitage of St. Verena. On
the right are the hermit's dwelling and a chapel; on the left is a rock-
hewn chapel, reached bj' a broad flight of steps, and containing a repre-
sentation of the holy sepulchre with life-size figures. We may now ascend
by the chapel to the crosses, pass near the large marble quarries, and tra-
verse the wood to the Wengistein, the view from which is similar to that
from the Weissenstein, though on a smaller scale. A huge granite boulder
here bears a Latin inscription recording two memorable events in the history
of Soleure.
From the restaurant beyond the hermitage we ascend to the right, in
the direction of the Weissenstein ; and at (10 min.) the village of Widlis-
hach, turn to the left and cross the hill to (12 min.) the hamlet of Fa Hern
(1827'), at the foot of the Weissenstein. Above it we enter the wood to
the left by a finger-post, ascend gradually, and then in steep zigzags to
the (40 min.) first bench, above which there are several others. The path
soon quits the wood and ascends an abrupt rocky gully, partly by means of
steps. Farther up, the ascent is through wood and more gradual. In
40 min, we regain the road (to the left) above the KesseWoden Alp fiAiV).
and following it, reach in 40 min. more the -Kurhaus on the Yordere
Weissenstein (U., L., & A. 3'/*, B. IV4, D. 31/2, S. 2, pension 8 fr.), a sana-
torium surrounded by woods and pastures, and much resorted to in summer
(English Church service in summer). The footpath, diverging to the right
10 Routed. AARRURO. From B ale
at the end of the wide cui-ve, 8 min. from the Nesselboden Alp, and then
ascending abruptjy to the left at the post on the top, 13 a short-cut.
The -ViKW is less jiicturesque, but more extensive than that from
the Rigi; and no spot commands a better view of the whole Alpine
chain from the Tyrol to Mont Blanc. To the E. are distinguished the
Sentis, the Gliirnisch , with the Rigi in the foreground, the Todi between
the Rigi and Pilatus , the lofty saddle of Titlis, and the Sustenhorn;
beyond Soleure are the Wetterhorn and Schreckhorn, the Finsteraarhorn,
Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp, and Doldeuhorn ; then the Balmhorn,
Altels, Wildstrubel, Wildhorn, Diablerets, and to the S.W. Mont Blanc.
To the S.W. glitter the lakes of Bienne, Morat, and Neuchatel; the Aare
winds to the S. through the fertile plains, and the Grosse Emme flows into
it at the foot of the mountain.
Pleasant walk to the W. through the wood to the (10min.)7^aw^e^* (4093'J.
— The Kothe (4588'J, '/s hr. to the E. of the hotel, commands an extensive
view to the N. and E. of the Black Forest and Vosges, which are hid-
den from the Weissenstein , and affords a good survey of the pictur-
esque mountains and valleys of the Jura. — Towards the W. the view
is concealed by the 'Hasenmatt (4746'), i^/t hr. from the hotel, whence
an uninterrupted panorama may be enjoyed. The path to it leads across the
pastures to the W. to (25 min.) the Hintere Weissenstein (4027'; Inn). A
pleasanter route leads by the shady footpath, which enters the woods to the
right above the pastures, but which must be quitted as soon as it begins
to ascend more steeply. Shortly before reaching the Hintere Weissenstein
we descend a little to the left and cross the ridge to (20 min.) the end
of the meadows ; then descend for 1/4 hr. in the Kesselioald, and ascend across
more pastures to (20 min.) the chalet of A Uhiisli (4375'; simple rfmts.),
on the saddle, with a good spring. An easy path leads hence to the
summit in 20 min. (the path, diverging to the left, 10 min. before the
chalet, is shorter but steeper). — We may descend from the Hasenmatt
or the chalet on the S.side, pass Lmnmistcyl , and regain Soleure, or the
nearer station of Selzach (see below). Those returning from the Kurhaus
to Soleure follow the road from Fallern (p. 15) to (V2 M.) a sign-post
with four arms, whence a path between pine-woods and large quarries (see
above) brings them in '/s hr. to the N.W. gate of Soleure.
Prom fiolewe to Ilcrzoyenbuchsee, see below.
From Solkuue to Burgdorp (13 M.) by the Emmenthal railway in
1 hour. The principal station is (7 M.) Utzensdorf, the largest village in
the lower Emmenthal. Biirffdorf, see p. 17.
From Soleure to Lvss (15 M.) by railway, skirting the right bank of
the Aare, in 1-1'/-.! hour. About halfway is Biiren (Krone), a small town
with an old chateau. Li/ss, see p. 11.
The Bicnne line crosses the Aare. 48 M. Alt-Solothurn (p. 14) ;
then Selzach, Grenchen or Granges (Lowe), with watch-manufactor-
ies, and Pieterlen.
G3 M. Bienne, see p. 11.
4. From Bale to Bern via Herzogenbuchsee.
6G M. Railway in 'i^U-i'-'/t hrs. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 30 c).
To (241/.2 M.) Olten, see pp. 12, 13. The line skirts the right
bank of the Aare; to the left, the chateau of Neu-Wartburg (jp. iS).
Beyond a short tunnel we reach —
27 M. Aarburg (128(5' ; * Krone; Bi'ir), a thriving little town
(20G4 inh.ib.), picturesquely situated on the Aare (junction for Lu-
cerne, p. 20). Tlie old castle on a hill, built in 1660, with casemates
liewn in the rock, is now a factory.
Stations Niederwyl ; Murgenthal , where the Murg is crossed ;
to Bern. BURGDORF. 4. Route. 17
Roggwyl; Lanyenthal (*L6we), a thriving village with a busy timber-
trade; Biitzberg.
411/2 M. Herzogenbuchsee (1500' ; 2300 inhab. ; *Sonne; Rail.
Restaurant) is a considerable place , with a loftily situated church.
To SoLEDKE (9 M.) railway in 40 min. Stations Jnkwyl, Subigen, and
Derenditic/en, beyond which we cross the Grosse Emme to J^feu-SoloUntj-nip. I4j.
Near (451/2 M.) Riedwyl we enter a grassy valley with wooded
slopes. Beyond (47 M.) Wi/ni^en along tunnel (1 min.). The train
now crosses the Orosse Emme to —
52 M. Burgdorf, Fr. Berthoud (1863'; Hotels Guggisberg and
de la Gare, both at the station; Maison de Ville; Ours), a busy town
(6849 inhab.), picturesquely situated. The substantially built houses
are flanked with 'Lauben', or arcades, as at Bern. The public
buildings, the hospital, schools, orphanage, and public walks testify
to the wealth and taste of the community. In the chateau of
Burgdorf, in 1798, Pestalozzi established his famous school, which
in 1804 he removed to Yverdon (p. 198). Beautiful views from the
church and chateau ; finer from the Lueg (2886'), 2 hrs. to the E.
From Burgdorf to Langnau, 14 31., railway in 1 hr. The line as-
cends the fertile Emmenthal. Stat. Oberhurg and Hasle-Rilegsmi. From
Riiegsau, l'/-j M. to the N.E. of the railway, the Rachisherg (2768'; line
view of the Alps and the Jura) may be ascended in '/■- 'i'^- — 6 31.
LUtzelfliih-Goldbacb. Liitzelfluh was the home of the pastor Albert Bitzius
(d. 1854), a well-known popular author under the name of Jeremias Gott-
helf. — 7V2M. Ramsey-Sumiswald (the latter lying 3 M. to the K.); 9 M.
Zollbfiick; 14 M. Langnau (p. 128).
From Burgdorf to Soleure, see p. 16.
541/2 M. Lyssach; 56 M. Hindelbank; 59 M. Schonbilhl. Beyond
(6IV2M.) ZoJiifco/'en (junction for Bienne, p. 12), on the right,
lies the Riitti , once the property of E. v. Fellenberg , and how
an agricultural institution. Farther on , the train crosses the iron
Worblaufen Bridge (below, to the right, the handsome bridge of
Tiefenau over the Aare , constructed in 1851) and then ascends
through a cutting to the Wyler Feld (drilling-ground), whence, to
the left , we obtain a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps.
Farther on, to the right, is a new workmen's suburb (the 'Lor-
raine'), beyond which we cross the Aare and enter the station of
Bern. The ^Bridge, 200 yds. long and 142' high, has a roadway
for ordinary traffic below the railway. — 66 M. Bern, see p. 133.
5. From Bale to Ziirich.
56 M. Railway in 2V4-3',2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 75 c).
To (5 M.) Pratteln, see p. 12. Near (71/2 M.) Augst, pictur-
esquely situated, we cross the Ergoh and approach the Rhine. On
the left Kaiser-Augst, with salt-works and an old church. On the
opposite bank of the Ergolz is the hamlet of Basel-Augst (p. 3).
IOV2 M. Rheinfelden (873'; *H6tel des Salines, 5 min. a\)0ve
the town, pens. 4-6 fr. ; *H6tel Dietschy zur Krone, with terrace
on the Rhine ; Zum Schiltzen; Schi/f, all with salt-baths; *Bellt-
Baeuekek, Switzerland. i3th Edition. 2
1 8 Route 5. BRUGG. From Bale
vue, on the right bank of the Rhine; beer at the Salmen; English
chaplain in summer), an old town with 2360 inhab., once strongly
I'ortiflcd, with walls and towers still partly preserved , was one of
the outposts of the Holy Roman Empire. After repeated sieges it
was taken and razed to the ground by the French in 1744. Since
1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. The foaming river here dashes
over the rocks, forming the Hollenhaken rapids. Near the town are
extensive salt-works on the Rhine.
"We quit the Rhine, which here describes a bend to the N., pass
(13 M.) Moldin and (17 M.) 3/umj)/" (Soolbad zur Sonne; Guntert),
and then return to the river for a short distance. I8I/2 M. Stein
(990'; *Lowe), connected by a covered bridge with Sdckingen (p. 22).
We quit the Rhine, and at (20'/'2 M.) Eiken enter the pleasant
and fertile Sisseln-Thal. 23 M. Fncfe (1120'; Adler; Engel), a con-
siderable village. The train ascends in a long curve to (26 M.) Hor-
nusseii (1275'). 2872 M. Effingen (1427'), the highest point on the
line. Then a tunnel, 2697 yds. long (4min.), under the Botzberg
(1945'), the Mons Vocetius of the Romans. SiM. Botzenegg. The
train gradually descends ; magnificent view of the valley of the Aare
to the right, and, in clear weather, of the St. Gall, Glarus, and
Schwyz Alps. Bridge over the Aare 259 yds. long and 104' high.
36 M. Brugg(1096'; pop. 1583; *Rdssli; Rothes Haus; Station
Hotet), an antiquated little town, the junction ioxAarau and Walds-
hut (R. 7), is best surveyed from the Aare bridge. The ^Schwarze
ThurnH dates from the later Roman Empire ; the upper part was
restored in the 15th century. A little to the N.E. three of the chief
Swiss rivers, the Aare, the Reuss, and the Limmat, unite, falling
into the Rhine at Kohlenz (p. 22), 8 M. to the N.
The ancient Abbey of Kbnigsfelden (3/4 M. to the S.E. of Brugg), for-
merly a convent of Minorites, was founded in 1310 by the Empress Eliza-
beth and her daughter, Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where
Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years
before (1308) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. It was secularised in
1528; the building was converted into an hospital, and in 1872 into a lunatic
asylum. Of the old buildings there now remain the S. part only, the church,
and the dwelling of Queen Agnes, which last now contains a collection of
antiquities. The stained-glass 'Windows in the choir, of the 14th cent., op-
posite the door, pourtray the history of Agnes, etc. Part of the choir, with
the tomb of Duke Leopold (p. 20), is now a cart-shed. On the walls are
portraits of the chief knights who fell at Sempach (painted soon after the
battle, but now much damaged).
On the tongue of land formed by the Reuss and the Aare once stood
the considerable Helvetian town of Vindoniss.\, which in the early centu-
ries of the Christian era was the headquarters of a Roman legion with its
Rhaetian cohorts, as is proved by inscriptions. The position of the amphi-
theatre is recognisable ; and the well of the Abbey of Konigsfelden is fed
by a subterranean Roman conduit. The town was destroyed in the 5th
cent., and there is now no trace of its extensive edifices; but the name
still survives in that of the village of Windisc/i , 1 M. to the E. of Brugg.
From Brugg to Wohlen, 11 M., railway in 40 minutes. — 3 M. Birr-
feld; 5'/'i M. Othmarsingen (junction for Wettingen and Aarau, p. 21) ;
T'/^M- Hendschikon (p. 21); 8'/z M. Dottikon-Dintikon (p. 21); 11 M. Woh-
Un-ViUmergen. (To Jlothkreuz, see p. 21.)
to Zurich. BADEN. 5, Ruute. 19
"Wo cross the Reuss near its union with the Aarc, and beyoml
(38 M.l Turgi (junction for Waldshut, see p. 22), reach the Limmat
and follow its left bank. The steep slopes are clad with vines.
42 M. Baden (1257'; pop. 3818; Hotel Bahnhof,- Waaye) was
much visited even in Roman times for the sake of its mineral
springs (Aquae Helvetiae). In the reign of Nero, according to Taci-
tus (Hist. i. 67), it had all the appearance of a town (Hn modum
munieipii exstructus locus, amoeno salubrium aquarum usu fre-
quens ). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, and down to the
beginning of the 15th cent, was often the residence of the princes
of Hapsburg. The extensive ruins of the fortress Stein zu Baden
(1506'), destroyed in 1415 and again in 1712, rise above the town;
its summit and the Cafe Belvedere command fine views.
The hot mineral springs (98"'-126° Fahr.) lie in the narrow val-
ley of the Limmat (1190'), 5min. to the N. of the station, •/.2 M.
from the town. The '■Small Baths (Adler ; Engel ; Hirsch ; Eebstock;
Schwan), on the right bank of the Limmat, are chiefly freqiiented
hy the neighbouring peasantry ; the ' Great Baths' (*Neue Kuranstalt
Baden, or Grand Hotel, pension 8-12 fr. ; Schiff ; *Verenahof, 8fr. ;
*Blume; Schweizerhof; Freihof; *Limmathof; Ochs; Bar) lie on the
left bank. The Bahnhof-Str. leads from the station to the handsome
Kursaal , with its pleasant grounds (*Restaurant ; music several
times daily) and to the Kuranstalt (see above). Good view from the
lower Limmat bridge (1175') ; opposite, on the right bank, is the
Cafe Brunner, with a garden. From the upper bridge a footpath
leads to the left to (V2 M.) the Restaurant Schartenfels, which com-
mands a fine view.
From Baden to Aarau, seep. 21; station on the S.W. side of the up-
per town, 1 M. from the baths.
We pass through a short tunnel under the Stein zu Baden (sec
above), and cross the Limmat to (43 M.) Wettingen. The village lies
on the left, at the foot of the vine-clad La5rcrr?g'e6jrjre (2828') ; and
on the right, surrounded by the Limmat, are the extensive buildings
and gardens of the former Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a
seminary for teachers. The church contains a sarcophagus in whicli
the remains of the Emp. Albert (see p. 18) reposed for 15 months
before their removal to Speyer. Stained- glass windows of the
16th and 17th cent., carved stalls of the 17th.
From Wettingen to Oeklikon, 13'/j M., railway in IV4 hr. — 2V2 M.
Wiirenlos; 4'/2 M. Otdfingen-Daenikon (branch-line by Bucks and Nieder-
glatt to Biilach, p. 47); 6 M. Buchs-DaelUkon ; 8' '2 M. Regeiudorf-Watt , a
little to the E. of which is the small Katzensee (-Inn) ; iOVz M. Affol-
tern; 12>/2 M. Seehach; 13V2 M. Oerlikon (p. 46).
The train again crosses the deep bed of the Limmat and follows
its left bank to Ziirich. 46 M. Killwangen. — 49 M. Dietikon(1286';
Lowe). It was here that Massena effected his famous passage of
the Limmat, 24th Sept., 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians
and took Ziirich. — Schlieren And Altstetten(j^.lO) are the last stations
2*
20 Route 6. SEMPACH.
before Zurich. To the right stretclics tlie htiip; ridge of the Uetli with
its iiiii fp. 37). We now cross the Sihl ami enter the station of —
56 M. Zurich, see p. 32.
6. From Bale to Lucerne.
.09 JI. KAII.WAY ( Central) in 2'/'.!-4'/-j trs. (fares 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 15, 5 fr. lOc).
To [27 M.) Aarbury , the junction for Bern (li. 4), see p. 16.
The Lucerne line traverses the broad grassy Wiggerlhal.
30 M. Zofingen (1430'; pop. 4452; Rdssli; Ochs), a busy little
town. The library in the Kathhaus contains a collection of coins,
autographs of Swiss reformers, and the album of the society of
Swiss artists, founded in the year 1806, which formerly met at Zo-
lingen annually. On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near
the Schiitzenhaus two 'ball-rooms' have been constructed. In the
Bleichegut, near the town, are the remains of a Roman bath.
From Zofingen to Suhr, railway in 36 minutes. Stations Safi'nwiil,
Kolliken, Enlfclde.n, well-to-do villages, and (lO'/z M.) Suhr, the junction
I'lir Aarau and Baden (p. 21).
33 M. Reiden, an old lodge of the knights of Malta, now a par-
sonage. 35 M. Dagmersellen ; 37 M. Nebikon (diligence daily in
3 hrs., via WUtisau, to Wohlhausen in the Entlebuch, p. 127). To
the right appear the Bernese Alps ; in the centre the Jungfrau,
with the Monch and Eiger to the left of it and the Altels to the
right. Beyond (39'/2 M.) Wauwyl the little Mauensee, with its
islaiiil and castle, lies on the right.
43'/2 M. Sursee (1690'; pop. 2138; Sonne; Hirsch), an old
town , over whose gates the double eagle of Hapsburg is still
enthroned. The Town Hall recalls the Burgundian style.
Near (46 M.) Notlivyl we approach the Lake of Serwpach (1663'),
5 M. long, IV2 M- broad, and abounding in fish. On a hill to the
right rises Schloss Wartensee.
4972 M- Sempach. The small town (pop. 1097; Kreuz; Adler')
lies IV2 M- to the N. , on the S.E. bank of the lake. Near Sempach
Duke Leopold of Austria was signally defeated on 9th July, 1386, by
the Swiss Confederates, owing, according to the story, to the noble
self-sacriflce of Arnold von Winkelried. The duke himself and 263 of
his knights were slain. A column surmounted by a lion was erected
beside the church in 1886 on the 500th anniversary of the victory.
A Chapkl (2064'j, I'/a M. to the N.E. of Sempach, marks the spot where
Leopold fell. His uncle, Duke Leopold, had been defeated by the Swiss 71
years before at Jlorgarten (p. 98). The anniversary is still kept.
The train intersects plantations of firs. On the right appear the
precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus; on the left the long crest of
the Rigi; between these tower the snowy Alps (see p. 75); the
isolated mountain adjacent to Pilatus, rising above the lake, is the
Titlis. 53 M. Rothenburg ; 56 M. Emmenbrilcke (Hotel Emmen-
briick« ; Restaurant Seethal) , the junction of the 'Seethal' line to
Lenzburg (p. 130). The line crosses the Emme , a little above
AARAU. 7. Route. 21
its junction with the Reuss, and follows the latter, heing joined
on the left by the Ziirich and Lucerne line (p. 70), and on the
right by the Bern and Lucerne line (p. 127j. Lastly we pass
through a tunnel under the Giilscli (p. 76).
59 M. Lucerne, see p. 73.
7. From Olten to Waldshut via Aarau and Brugg.
32'. 2 M. Railwat in 2 brs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 4 fr., 3 fr. 85 c).
Olten, see p. 13. The train runs near the Aare as far as Brugg.
To the left rise the picturesque Jura Mts.
4 M. Ddnikon; 51/2 M. Schonenwerth ; on the opposite bank of
the Aare is Schloss Gosgen , with a ruined tower. A tunnel now
carries us under the loftily situated town of —
81/2 M. Aarau (1263'; pop. 6710; *R-6ssli; *Ochs; *Lowe;
* Wilder Mann), a manufacturing place, the capital of Canton Aargau,
on the Aare (which is crossed by a suspension-bridge, constructed
In 1850), and at the foot of the Jura, the slopes of which at places
are planted with the vine. The Gross-Rathsgebciude contains fine
stained glass (from the Abbey of Muri, 16th cent.) and the Can-
tonal Library (60,000 vols.). The Geographical and Commercial
Society of Central Switzerland has here founded an interesting
* Ethnographical Industrial Museum. A house in the Rathhaus-
Platz (No. 882) contains interesting antiquities from Yindonissa
(p. 18). The historian Heinrich Zschoklce (d. 1848) once lived
here; his house, the ^ Blwnenhalde\ is passed on the pleasant
walk across the suspension-bridge to the (1/4 hr.) *Alpenzeiger on
the Hungerberg (Restaurant, with fine view, pens. 4 fr.).
Above the town, to the ]S'., rises the Wasser/lu!i (2850'), and to the
■N.E. the Qiselafluh (2540'), over which a path, with a view of the lakes of
Hallwyl and Baldegg, leads to the Baths of Schinznach. — Pleasant road
from Aarau by Erlisbacli (p. 13) to the (4 M.) -Latirenzenbad, prettily situat-
ed in the Jura. — About 6 M. to the W. of Aarau are the sulphur-baths
of Lostorf (p. 13), the road to which passes Erlisbach and Stiisslingen.
— From Aarau to Sissach over the Schafmalt, see p. 12.
Fbom Aarau to Rotukkeuz, 29'/2 M.. railwav in l'/2-2 hrs. — 4 M.
Ruppersiceil (see p. 22); 631. Lembwg (p. 180); 8 M. Hendschikon ; 10 M. Dotti-
kon-Dintikon; I2V2 M. Wohlen-Villmergen, two considerable villages (junc-
tion for Brugg and Bale, p. 13). Branch-line hence to the E. to (5 M.)
Bremgarten (Drei KiJnige ; Kreuz), a small town on the Reuss.with a
chateau. — Then (16 M.) Boswyl-Biinzen and (18 M.) Muri (1630'; "Lowe,
with salt and mineral baths ; Adlev), with the extensive buildings of a
Benedictine Abbey suppressed in 1841, now a school. Near the town is the
picturesque wooded Miihltobel with several waterfalls. On a hill, I'/i hr.
to the S.E., is "Schloss Hovben (2625'; pension 6-7 fr.), with extensive
wood-walks and a beautiful view. — 20'/2 M. Benzenschwyl ; 22'/2 M. Miihlau,
on the Reuss; 25 M. Sins; 27 31. OberriiU. We then cross the Reuss to
(291/2 31.) Rothkreuz, the junction of the St. Gofthard line (pp. 71, 99).
From Aakau to Baden, 17'/2 M., railway in 1 hr. 20 min. — 3 M.
Suhr (branch-line to Zofingen, p. 20); 5', 2 31. Hunzenschwul (on a hill to
the right the Slaufberg). 71/2 31. Lenzbuvg (p. 130; 'Seethalbahn' to
Lucerne, see 11.39), where the Aa is crossed. lO'/v; M. O/hmarsingeii,
junction for Brugg and Wohlen (p. 18). Kear (11 31.) Miigenicyl , on a
spur of the Keslfiiberg. to the left, rises Schloss Urauiiegg. The train
22 Route H. SACKTNGEN.
crosses the lietiss. l3'/2 M. Melliiiffen; IS'/z M. Dattwyl; IT'/z M. Baden
(p. 19; the station lies to the S.W. of the upper town, see p. 19).
On the left, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Giselafluh, lies
Biberstein, with an old castle, formerly a lodge of the knights of
St. John. 13 m. lluppersweil; to the right the Staufberg and the
chatean of Lenzburgijp. 130). — 15 M. Wildegg, with a castle of that
name, on the foot of the Wiilpelsberg , has mineral springs contain-
ing iodine and bromine, the water of which is used for exportation
only. On a hill beyond the Aare rises Schloss Wildenstein. — l^'/i M.
Stat. Schinznach lies halfway between the village, on the left bank
of the Aare, and the (3 M.) Schinznacher Bad, or Habsburger Bad
(1'203'), with sulphur -baths, chiefly frequented by French visitors
(*Kurhaus, with pretty grounds, pens. 4-7 fr.).
The baths lie at the foot of the Wiilpelsberg (1686'), on the top of
wliich ('/2 hr.) are the ruins of the 'Habsburg, the cradle of the imperial
family of Austria, erected by Count Radbnd von Altenburg about 1020.
The tower, with walls 8' thick, is the only part now standing. The ad-
joining house is occupied by a farmer. The view embraces the entire
dominions of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and the valleys of the Aare,
Reuss, and Limmat, bounded on the S. by the Alps.
191/2 M. Brugg, and thence to (22 M.) Turgi, see p. 18.
The Waldshut train crosses the Limmat near its influx into the
Aare, passes stat. Siggenthal, and traverses the broad valley of the
Aare, which it approaches near (28 M.) Dotlingen-KUngnau. It then
describes a wide curve, passes through a tunnel, and crosses the
Rhine near (301/2 M.) Koblenz, above the mouth of the Aare.
321/2 M. Waldshut, see p. 23.
8. From Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance.
89 JI. Ladkn Hailwat in 5 hrs. (to Schaffhausen 9 fr. 50, 6fr. 30, 4fr.
5c.; to Constance 14 fr. 50, 9 fr. 65, 6 fr. 20c.). Neuhausen (p. 23) is the
station for the Falls of the Rhine (R. 9). Views to the right. — Steamer
from Schaffhausen to Constance in 31/2-4 hrs. (descending in 3 hrs.), pleas-
ant if time and weather permit (see p. 24; fares 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c.).
BCde (Baden station), see p. 2. We traverse a fertile plain
between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the Rhine. Stations
Orenzach, Wyhlen (Hotel Bilmaier), Herthen. At (10 M.) Bei
Rheinfclden (ha.hi\hote\; Bellcvue), opposite Rheinfelden (p. 17),
the line approaclies the Rhine, which here dashes over rocks. The
left bank is precipitous and wooded.
12 m. Beuggen; to the right are a large reformatory and a semi-
nary for teachers, formerly a Teutonic lodge. 15 M. Niederschwor-
sladt. To the left of (17 M.) Brennet (*Zum Wehrathal) opens the
* Wehralhal (see Baedeker's Rhine).
20 M. Sackingen (957'; Soolbad or Lijwe; Schiitze), a consider-
able town, has a large abbey-church with two towers. The castle
on the Rhine, which figures in Scheffel's poem 'The Trumpeter of
Sackingen' ('Trompeter von Siickingen') , is now the property of
Ilr. l'>alli. Pretty grounds.
SCHAFFHAUSEN. 8. Route. 23
24 M. Murg (Zum Murgthal), where we cross the Murg. Op-
posite (251/2 M.) Laufenburg (*Post) is the Swiss town of Laufen-
boTg (980 ' ; Rheinsoolbad ; Adlef) , very picturesquely placed on
the left bank, with its lofty church, ruined castle, and old watch-
towers. The Rhine here forms a roaring cataract called the '■Laufen .
A long tunnel; then, beyond (29 M.) Albert-Hauenstein, a lofty
viaduct. At intervals we approach the river. Near (30 M.) Albbruck
the Alb is crossed. 32 M. Dogern.
35 M. Waldshut (1122'; Hot. Schdtzle, at the station; *H6tel
Blume; Eebstock, in the town), the largest of these small towns
on the Rhine, lies high above the river. — Railway to Turgi (for
Ziirich), see p. 22; to Winterthur, see p. 47.
Beyond Waldshut a tunnel ; to the right, occasional glimpses of
the Alps. Before (38 M.) Thiengen (Krone) we cross the Schliicht,
and at (40'/2M.) Oberlauchrlngen the Wutach. To the right, on a
wooded height, is the ruin oi Kilssenberg . Stations Griessen, Erzin-
gen, WHchingen-HaUau, Neunkirch, Beringen, and (oT'/o M.) A'eu-
hnusen, the station for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 26).
59 M. Schaffhausen. — *Post, in tlie Herrenacker, 3 min. from the
station; 'Muller, E. from 2, B. IV4 fr. , 'Rheinisoheii IIok, Eiese, all
three at the station; 'Tanne, plain; 'Schiff, on the Rhine; Krone, un-
pretending. — Restaurant Rehmann , at the station; Rail. Restaurant. —
Baths in the Rhine, at the upper end of the town, 6-1 and 5-8, for ladies 2-5.
Schaffhausen (1414'; pop. 12,327), the capital of the canton of
that name, still retains some of the features of a Swabian town of
the empire. It presents a most picturesque appearance when seen
from the village of Feuerthalen, on the left bank of the Rhine, or
from the villa Charlottenfels (1384') on the right bank. Hr. Moser
(d. 1871), the late proprietor of the villa, originated the imposing
WateriDorks in the Rhine (outside the Miihlenthor) , by means of
which the factories of the town are supplied with water-power.
The Cathedral, once an abbey-church, an early-Romanesque
basilica, was erected in 1052-1101. Interior lately restored. The
Gothic cloisters are tolerably preserved. The inscription on the great
bell, cast in 1486: Vivos voco, mortuos plango , fulgura frango,
suggested Schiller's beautiful 'Lied von der Glocke'. The Gothic
Church of St. John contains an excellent new organ.
The castle of Munot (properly Unnot), built in 1564-82 and
recently restored, commands the town. It consists of a round tower
containing a winding inclined plane instead of a staircase, with
walls 16' thick (fine view from the top).
The Imthurneum , in the Herrenacker, erected by Hr. Imthurn
(d. 1881), a native of Schaffhausen and a London banker, and pre-
sented to the town, contains a theatre, a music-school, and exhibi-
tion rooms. Opposite is the Museum, with natural history specimens
and antiquities (including those found in the Kesslerloch near
Thaylngen), and the town-library. In the neighbouring govern-
ment bnilding.s is preserved a large onyx, dating from the Roman
24 Rorde fi. SINGEN. From RVe
imperial epoch, and representing a goddess of peare (adni. 11-12
gratis ; at other times 1 fr.).
In the pretty Filsenstaub Promenade is a bust of the Swiss his-
torian Johannes v. Miiller (b. at SchatThausen, 1752; d. at Cassel,
1809). The lofty terrace towards the Rhine affords a line view of
the rapids and the Alps.
From Schaffhausen to the Falls of the Rhine (2 M.), see p. 26. Car-
riage with one horse to the Schliisschen Worth, and back from Neuhausen
to Schail'hausen, including stay of 1 hr., 7 fr. In summer a conveyance
.startin;; from the Hotel Miiller at 9 p.m. takes visitors to view the illu-
mination of the falls. — Pretty walk through the Miihlenthal to the Seekel-
amtshiisli, with a view of the Alps, and back to SchalVhausen by the
Jloehfltth (another fine point of view) and the suburb of Steig (U/^ hr. in all}.
Other line views may be obtained from the Beringer Randen (belvedere),
4 M. to to the W. (to Beringen station in 20 min., see p. 23), and from
the Hohe Randen (2965'), lO'/s M. to the N.W., reached via Hemmenitadt
or Merichausen.
The line now turns to the N.E. Stations Herblingen, Thayingen,
and Gottmadinyen. — 71 M. Singen (* Krone ; Ekkehard ; Hail.
Restaurant), the junction for the Black Forest Railway. About 3 M.
to the N.W. rises the Hohenlwiel (2244'), with grand ruins and a
noble view (see Baedeker's S. Germany).
From Singen to Etzweilen, railway in '/s l"". (1 fr. 30, 90, G5 c).
Stations Rielasingen, Ramsen. We cross the Rhine between Hemishofen and
Rheinklingen (p. 25). 9 M. Etzweilen (p. 31).
75V2 M. Rickelshausen. — 771/2 M. Radolfzell (*Schiff; Krone),
an old town on the Vntersee, with a Gothic church of 1436. Near it,
on the lake, isSeehalde, formerly the villa of Victor v. Scheffei,
Avitli a monument to the poet (d. 1886).
In the middle of this basin of the Lake of Constance lies the island
of Reichenau, in the dominions of Baden, 3 31. long, 1 M. wide, connected
with the E. shore by an embankment, 3/4 M. in length. (Boat from
AUensbach to the island in 25 min. ; from Constance to the island by the
embankment 41/2 M.; the Scbaft'hausen steamers also touch at Reichenau
twice daily.) The Benedictine Abbey, once richly endowed , fell to decay
owing to mal-administration in the 14th cent., and was secularised in 1799.
The church, consecrated as early as 806, contains the remains of Charles the
Fat, great-grandson of Charlemagne, who was dethroned in 887. It is now
the parish-church of the neighbouring village o( Mittelzell or J/«n«<er (Krone).
The tower and nave belong to the original building. There are now few
antiquities here, except several reliquaries in the sacristy. The Carolingian
churches of Ohevzell and Unterzell are architecturally interesting.
The train intersects the tongue of land between the Untersee
and the Veberlinger See on the S.W. side, passes Markelfingen,
AUensbach, Reichenau, and the large barracks of Petershausen, and
crosses the Rhine to (89 M.) Constance (p. 28), by an iron bridge
embellished with statues.
STE.\MBO.iT FROM Scii AFEHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE. Charts of the joumcy
are sold for 30 c. on board the steamboats. Below the stations are indi-
cated with daggers. Pier above the bridge, near Schloss Mmtol (p. 23), op-
posite Feuerthalen. — Right : Parodies, formerly a nunnery.
■;• Left : Biistngen, a Baden village.
R. <S^ Catharinenthal, formerly a nunnery, now a hospital for in-
curables; opposite (left) Villa Ravschenherg.
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t R. Diessenhofen (1325'; Adler; Lowe; Uirsclt), the Roman Ouno-
durum. The Rhine is crossed here by a covered wooden bridge , below
which the steamer lowers its funnel.
R. Rheinkliugen : left, Bibeni. We now pass under the handsome
bridge of the 'Nordostbahn'' (see p. 24). L. Hemishvfeii , with the ruin
of Wolkenstein above. R. Wagenhausen.
t L. Stein ('Sonne; 'Rabe), a picturesque old town, connected with
the village of Burg (Wasserfels) by a new wooden bridge, and a station on
the Winterthur railway (p. 31). The suppressed monastery of St. George
contains a hall with a vaulted wooden roof, erected in 1515, and embel-
lished with frescoes. The Rathhaus contains a collection of stained glass,
old weapons, etc. The old chateau of Hohenklingen (1945'), on a hill to
the N. of the town, aftbrds an admirable view.
Above Stein is the island of St. Othmar, with the chapel of that name.
The Rhine widens, the steamer enters the Untersee. R. Eschenz (p. 31) ;
on the hill above it the chateau of Freiideiifels.
f L. Obersiaad, an old mansion with a square tower, now occupied
by dyeworks ; beyond it the suppressed monastery of Oehningen.
f R. Mammern (p. 31) ; in the wood, the ruin of Neuburg ; on the
bank, the house of GUtrisegg.
i L. Wangen and the chateau of Mai-bach (now a hydropathic estab.).
t R. Steckborn (p. 31). Below it, the former nunnery of Feldbach.
f R. Berlingen (p. 31). The lake expands, and we now see the island
of Reichenau (p. 24 ). On the hill to the right is the chateau of Eugens-
herg 1 erected by Eugene Beauharnais, vice-king of Italy, and now the
property of Count Reichenbach-Lessonitz.
t R. Mannenbaih (p. 31) , charmingly situated , above which is the
liandsome pinnacled chateau oi Salen stein ; then, on a beautifully wood-
ed hill, Arenaberg (1052'), once the residence of Queen Hortense (d. 1837)
and her son Napoleon III. (d. 1873), now the property of the ex-Empress
Eugenie, and containing many reminiscences of Napoleon 1.
+ R. Ermatmgen (p. 31), prettily situated on a promontory; on
the hill above it, Sc/doss Wolfsberg (now a 'Kurhaus' and pension). The
neighbouring Schloss Hard, with its beautiful garden, is not visible.
i L. Oberzell, on the island of Reichenau (p. 24). We now enter
the narrow arm of the Rhine connecting the Untersee with the Lake of
Constance.
t R. Gottlieben (Krone), with a chateau, now restored, in which Huss
and Jerome of Prague, and afterwards Pope John XXII. were confined
by order of the Council. The chateau and ruin of Castel, on the hill at
the back of the village, command a charming view. Beautiful retrospect
of the Untersee, with the Hohenhcifen, Hohenstofleln, and other peaks of
the Hohgau in the distance.
The banks now become flat, and at places marshy. We thread our
way through reedy shallows Q. Petershausen , with large barracks), and
at length pass under the handsome railway-bridge of Constance (p. 28).
Passengers are landed at the pier with a lighthouse at its E. end.
9. The Falls of the Rhine.
Comp. Map, p. 2i. »
Hotels. On the hill on the 7'ight bank, near stat. Neuhausen (p. 23),
*ScHWEizERHOF, R., L., & A. 5-G, D. 4-5 fr., well managed (no fees), witli
extensive grounds and the finest view of the Falls and the Alps; Bellevuk,
R., L., & A. 3-4, B. V/i, U. 3'/2 fr. ; omnibuses from both to the station and
pier at SchalThausen (I1/2 fr.). At Neuhausen, "Hotel Rheinfall, 'Rhein-
HOF, with baths, both moderate. — On the left bank, above the Falls, Hot.
Schloss Laufen, R. 2'/2 fr. ; Hot. Witzig, at stat. Dachsen, 3/4 M. from
the Falls (omnibus from both hotels in'S min.). Illumination of the Falls
with electric and Bengal lights every evening in summer (1 fr.).
English Church Service in the new church in the 'Schweizerhof grounds
at 1().3(( & 3.^0; chaplain, Rev. J. L. Ihdbeck.
20 Rnule 9. FALLS OF THE RHINE.
The station for the Falls on the right bank is Neuhausen (p. 23) on the
Baden Railway, that, on the left bank Dachsen (p. 32) on the Swiss line.
The best way to see the Falls is to start from Neuhausen and follow
the route described below (cross the bridge to Scfiloss Latifen, descend to
the Fischetz , cross to the Schlosschen Worth, and return through the
grounds, l'/2 hr. in all). This round is often taken in the reverse direc-
tion, but as the Fischetz, the most striking point of all is then visited
first , the other points lose much of their impressiveness. — Travellers who
desire to combine a visit to the falls with the journey to or from Switzer-
land alight at slat. Dachsen (allowing luggage to go on to its destination
and await their arrival), walk or drive (omnibus there and back I'/z fr.)
to (t M.) Laii/eii, descend through the grounds to the Fischetz, cross to
fichlosgrhen Wiirlh , and return to Schloss Laufen by the Rheinfallbriicke ;
or descend from Wiirth by the road on the right bank to the (3 4 M.) vil-
lage of Nohl, cross the river (ferry 15-20 c), and regain Dachsen in a few
minutes. — The pleasantest way to visit the Falls from Schaffhausen (p. 23)
is to drive in an open carriage, via Feuerthalen, to Schloss Laufen. Or
the traveller may walk to Neuh.ausen and cross the railway-bridge to the
Schloss (2 31.). Omnibuses ply from the Hotel Schloss Jjaufen and from
the hotels on the right bank to the railway station and steamboat quay
at Schaffhausen. — All the points of view should if possible be visited ,
as the traveller's impression of the Falls will otherwise be imperfect.
The **Falls of the Rhine are in point of volume the grandest
in Europe. The Rhine is precipitated in three leaps over an
irregular rocky ledge, which on the side next the left bank Is
about 60' in height, and on the right bank about 48'. Above the
Falls the river is about 125 yds. in width. If the rapids and the
cataracts a few hundred paces farther up be taken into account, the
total height of the falls may be estimated at nearly 100'. (Level
of the Rhine below the falls 1180'.) In June and July the river is
much swelled by melting snow. Before 8 a.m. and after 3 p.m.
numberless rainbows are formed by the sunshine in the clouds of
silvery spray. The spectacle is also very impressive by moonlight.
Of the four limestone -rocks which rise above the Falls, that nearest
the left bank has been worn by the action of the water to one-third of
its original thickness, but has lately been buttressed with masonry. When
viewed from a boat below, the rocks seem to tremble. The central and
highest rock , surmounted by a small pavilion, may be reached by boat,
and ascended by a path protected by a railing. The Falls are here surveyed
to the best advantage. The passage, which only occupies a few minutes,
is unattended with danger (1-2 pers. 3 fr. and fee ; each additional person
1 fr.). — It is a curious fact that no mention of the Falls of the Rhine
occurs in history before the year 9(50. It has therefore been supposed that
they did not exist until about a thousand years ago, and that, while the
bed of the river below the falls has gradually been deepened by erosion,
the deepening process above the falls has been retarded by the hardness
(if the rocky harrier above mentioned.
Leaving the Neuhausen Station (p. 23), we follow the road to
the left, and after a few paces descend by a path to the right to the
village. Beyond the Hotel Rheinfall we descend to the right by a
finger-post, and after 100 paces take the shady path to the left,
passing the Gun and Waggon Factory (a projecting point near which
affords a fine view of the Falls) to the (V4 hr.) ^Rheinfallbriicke,
210 yds. long, which carries the 'Nordostbahn' over the Rhine a
little above the Falls (p. 31). The nine arches vary in span(42-6G'),
as it was difficult to obtain foundations for the piers. The footway
LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 70. Route. 27
on the upper side of the bridge affords an interesting view of the
rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the falls below.
On the left bank a path ascends to the left in 5 min. to *H6tel
Schloss Laufen (1360'), picturesquely situated on a wooded rock
immediately above the Falls. (Admission 1 fr.; no other fees.). The
balcony and a jutting pavilion with stained-glass windows command
a good survey of the falls, the bridge, and the environs.
Footpaths descend through the grounds to the chief points of
view : aniron*Pai)i7wn, the wooden *K(inzelt, and lastly the *Fischetz,
an iron platform projecting over the foaming abyss. The scene here
is stupendous. The vast emerald-green volume of water descends
with a roar like thunder, apparently threatening to overwhelm the
spectator, and bedewing him with its spray.
Boats are in readiness here to ferry us across (50 c.) to tlie
Schlosschen Worth (^Restaurant; camera obscura 50 c), on an is-
land opposite the Falls , which is connected with the right bank by
a bridge. This point commands the finest general View of the Falls.
(Boat to the central rock, see p. 26.) We may now return to the
Neuhausen station or visit the Schweizerhof. To the W. of the hotel
is the Fischerhdlzll , with shady grounds and picturesque views. Or
we may follow the road on the right bank, ascending the river
(benches at intervals, commanding splendid views) to the Laufen
Ironworks, where a stone parapet near the sluices affords another
good survey of the Falls. The road thence to the left ascends through
the village of Neuhausen to the station (p. 26).
10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of
Constance.
Steamboat four times daily in suminer (twice direct, in l'/4-l'/2 It.;
twice via Jleersburg in 2 hrs.). Between tlie chief places on the lake,
Friedrichshafen , Lindan , Bregenz , Rorschach , Romanshorn , Constance,
Meershurg , Ueberlingen , and Ludieigshafen , the steamers (about 26 in
number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrichshafen-
Constance Vf-ilir., Friedrichshafen - Romanshorn 1 hr. , Friedrichshafen-
Rorschach l'/4 hr., Rorschach-Lindau II/4 hr., Constance-Lindau 2'/2 hrs.)
3-4 times daily. Good restaurants on board. The lake being neutral,
luggage is liable to custom-house examination on arriving in Germany or
Austria from Switzerland, and nominally in the reverse case also. Passengers
from one German port to another may avoid these formalities by obtaining
on embarcation a custom-house ticket for their luggage, which will be
delivered to them free of charge on their arrival.
The Lake of Constance (1306'; Ger. Bodensee, Lat. Lacits Brigantinits),
an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 210 sq. 31. in area, is, from Bregenz
to the influ.K of the Stockach, 40 31. long, about 71/2 M. wide, and between
Friedrichshafen and I'tweil 836' deep. The water is of a light green colour.
The N.E. banks are in general flat, but on the S.W. the lake is bounded by
beautiful wooded hills, which gradually decrease in height towards Constance.
In beauty of scenery the Bodensee cannot vie with the other Swiss lakes;
but its broad expanse of water, its picturesque banks, and green hills,
the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, the snow-clad Sentis in
particular, and several snow-peaks of the Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear
weather, combine to present a very pleasing scene. The lake is bounded
by three different states: Germany (Baden, Wurtemberg, and Bavaria),
28 Route in. CONSTANCE.
Austria, and Switzerland. The l)ost fi.sh are ^Felchen^ and (rout, and the
best wine j!;riiwii on tlie banks is the '■Afeersburger^.
'Eried.ricliah&fen (* Deutsches Haus, near the lake and station, good
cuisine', niodi^atc; * Kunuj v. Wiirltembery, 1/4 M. to the N. of tlic
Stat.; ^ Krone, witli a garden on the lake; Sonne; Adler ; *l{auch's
Restaurant), tlie S. terminus of the Wurtemberg Railway (to Stutt-
gart 0-7'/2 hrs.), is a busy place in summer. Its lake-baths attract
many visitors, especially from Swabia, and it boasts of a Kurhnlle
with pleasant grounds on the lake. The royal Schloss contains pic-
tures by Gegenbaur, Pflug, and other modern Wurtemberg artists;
a pavilion in the garden commands a charming view of the lake
and the Alps. The historical and other collections of the Bodensee-
Verein in the former Bellevue Hotel deserve a visit. The Harbour
with its Lighthouse is 1 M. from the railway-station.
Travellers about to continue their journey by steamer may keep their
seats until the train reaches the harbour-terminus, near the quay (Restau-
rant with view-terrace). Those arriving by steamer may procure tickets
immediately on landing, and step into the train at once.
A trip on the clear pale-green lake is generally very enjoyable,
but in rough weather sea-sickness is sometimes experienced. On
the N. bank are the village of Immenstaad, the chateaux of Herrs-
berg and Kirchberg; then the village of Hagnau. On the N.W. arm
of the lake, the Ueberlinger See, we next observe the picturesque
little town of Meersburg ; then the island of Mainau (p. 30), and in
the distance Ueberlingen. The steamer passes the promontory which
separates the Ueberlinger See from the bay of Constance , and
reaches Constance in l'/2 hr.
Constance (comp. Plan, p. 25). — "Insel-Hotel (Pi. a; C, 3), form-
erly a Dominican monastery (p. 29), on the lake, with a garden, R., L., &
A. 3 m. 20, B. 1 m. 20 pf., 1). 3 m. 50 pf.; '-Konstanzer Hof (PI. b), on
the N. bank of the lake, with extensive grounds, lake-baths, etc., R., L.
A! A. 4 m. 20, I). 3'/2, pens', from 5V2 m. (fine view from both these hotels) ;
"Hotel Halm (PI. c; C, 5), opposite the railway-station, R. & A. 2"/2, B.
1 m. ; <'Hecht (PI. d; C, 4), R., L., & A. 3 , B. 1, D. 3 m. ; 'Badischkk
Hop (PI. f; A, 5); Krone (PI. g; C, 4), Anker, Schifp, 'Barbauossa,
-BoDAN, 'Falke, 'Lamm, '•'Schnetzer, in the market-place, second class.
— Ca/^ Maximilian, IJahnhof-Str. — Baths in the lake (PI. D, 4, 5), well
fitted up (bath 40 pf. : ferry 10 pf.). — English Church Service in
summer.
Constance (1335'; pop. 14,800), a free town of the Empire
down to 1548, after the Reformation subject to Austria, and since
the Peace of Pressburg in 1805 a town of Baden, lies at the N.W.
end of the Lake of Constance, at the efflux of the Rhine. The epis-
copal see, founded in 781 , and held by 87 bishops in succession,
was deprived of its temporalities in 1802, and suppressed in 1827,
The *Cathei)ral (PI. 4; B,3), founded in 1052, once a cruciform
Romanesque edifice , was rebuilt in its present form at the be-
ginning of the IBth century. The Gothic tower, designed by Iliibsch,
was erected in 1850-57; the open spire has a platform on each
side, which commands an excellent survey of the town and lake
(adm. 20 pf.).
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CONSTANCE. 10. Route. 29
iNTERioK. On the doors of Ihe chief portal are Reliefs in 20 sections,
from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Simon Haider in 1470. * Choir-
stalls, with satirical sculptures, of the same date. The organ-loft was
enriched in the Renaissance style in 1680. In the nave, which is borne by
16 monolith columns (28' high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the entrance,
is a large stone slab , with a white spot which always remains dry when
the rest is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood on 6th July,
1415, when the Council sentenced him to be burnt at the stake. The N.
chapel adjoining the choir contains a -Death of the Virgin, in stone, date
1460. In the left aisle is the monument of /. //. v. Wessenberg (see below).
The Treasurt (verger V2-I m.) contains missals of 1426 with miniatures.
On the E. side of the church is a Cktpt, containing the Chapel of the Se-
pulchre, a representation of the Holy Sepulchre in stone, 20' high (13th
cent.). Adjoining the church on the K. stand two sides of the once hand-
some 'Cloistees.
The Wbssenbeeg-Haus (PI. 15; B,3), once the residence of the
benevolent Hr. v. Wessenherg (d. I860), who for many years was
the administrator of the bishopric, contains a collection of pictures,
engravings (daily, 9-12 and 2-5), and books (Mon., Wed., and
Sat. 2-4, Sun. 11-12), bequeathed by him to the town.
The late-Gothic church of St. Stephen (PI. 6; B,4), of the 15th
cent., with its slender tower, but disfigured externally, contains
interesting sculptures in wood and stone.
The Wessenberg-Str. leads hence to the Obere Markt, at the cor-
ner of which is the house ^Zum Hohen Hafen (PI. 2 ; B, 4), where,
according to the modern inscription, Frederick, Burgrave of Nurem-
berg, was invested with the March of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigis-
mund on 18th April, 1417. Adjacent is an old house (now the
Cafe Barbarossd), styled by the inscription Curia Pads, in which
Emp. Frederick I. concluded peace with the Lombard towns in
1183. — A little to the W. is the new Prot. Church (PL 5; A, 4).
The Stadt-Kanzlei , or Town Hall (PL 12; B, 4, 5), erected
in 1593 in the Renaissance style, and recently embellished on the
facade with frescoes relating to the history of Constance, contains the
Municipal Archives in the lower rooms (2800 charters , chiefly from
the Reformation period). Handsome inner court. — Opposite at Sar-
tori's bookshop M. Vincent's interesting collection of stained glass
is now partly exhibited. — In the market-place stands a Wingless
Victory, by Baur (PL 10), erected in memory of the war of 1870-71.
The Rosgaeten (PL 8; B, 5), the old guild -house of the
butchers, contains the *Rosgarten Museum, a fine collection of an-
tiquities of Constance and natural history specimens (adm. 40 pf.).
The Kaufhaus(P1. 1 ; C, 4) on the lake, erected in 1888, contains
the large hall, 52 yds. long, 35 yds. wide, and borne by ten mass-
ive oaken pillars, where the conclave of cardinals met at the time
of the Great Council (1414-18). The hall has lately been restored
and adorned with frescoes by Pecht and Schicorer from the history
of the town (adm. 20 pf.). Upstairs a collection of Indian and
Chinese curiosities, the property of the castellan (40 pf. ).
The Dominican Monastery in which Huss was confined, on
an island, has been partly converted into a hotel ('Insel-Hotel',
30 Route II. KREUZLINGEN.
p. 28). The well-preserved Romanesque cloisters (with frescoes by
Haberliii , illustrating the history of the convent) and the Unciy
vaulted diiiiiiK-room ( formerly the church) are worthy of a visit.
Pleasant promenade in the Stadtyarten on the lake, with a
marble bust of Emp. AVilliam I. and charming view.
The house in which Huss was arrested, in the Hussen-Strasse
near the Schnetzthor (PI. A, 5), is indicated by a tablet with a por-
trait of the reformer in relief, put up in 1878. Adjoining it is an
old relief, of 1415, with derisive verses. Some houses farther on, at
the 'Obere Laube', a bronze tablet with an inscription designates the
spot where Jerome of Prague was imprisoned in 1415-16. In the
BriiU, to the W. of the town, 1/2 M. from the Prot. Church (p. 29),
a large boulder with inscriptions marks the spot where these illus-
trious reformers suffered martyrdom.
Fine view of the lake and the Vorarlberg and Appcn/.cll Alps from
the •Allmannsltdhe (3/4 hr.), with belvedere (refreshm.), 5 min. above the
village of Allmaiuisdovf, on the road to the Mainau. — Pleasant walks to
the Loretto - Kapelle ('/2 hr.); the Jacob, a restaurant with a fine view
('/2 hr.); and the Kleine Rigi, above Miinsterlingen (Inn; 1 hr.).
In the N. W. arm of the Lake of Constance (Uebei'linrjer See, p. 28),
41/2 M. from Constance, lies the pretty island of ''Mainau, formerly the seat
of a commandery of the Teutonic order, as is indicated by a cross on the
S. side of the chateau, which was built in 1746. The island, I'/'i M. in
circumference, is connected with the mainland by an iron bridge 650 paces
long. Since 1853 it has been the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and
is laid out in pleasure-grounds. Steamboat from Constance in 55 min. ;
small boat (a pleasant trip of 1 hr.) 5m. and gratuity; carriage and pair (in
V2 hr.) 8 m. ; walkers take a shorter route, partly through pleasant woods
(1 hr.).
11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur
(Zurich) .
Comp. Maps, pp. 2S, 24.
60 M. Railway (NordoMahn) in iVi-bVi hrs. (fares 9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 95,
4 fr. 85 c).
Rorschach, see p. 50. The line skirts the lake of Constance,
of which it affords pretty glimpses. Rising conspicuously above the
woods on the N. bank is Heiligenberg (1066' above the lake), a
chateau of Prince Fiirstenberg. Stations Horn (p. 50), Arbon
(*Bar ; Engel ; Kreuz) , a small town on the site of the Roman
Arbor Felix. — 7'/2 M. Egnach.
91/2 ^I- Romanshorn, see p. 47 ; the station is close to the steam-
boat-pier. 12 M. Uttivyl; 13 m. Kesswyl (Biir; Pens. Seethal),
well-to-do villages. To the riglit, on the lake, the Moosburg is
visible. — 95 M. Giiltingen, with a chateau ; 16 M. Altnau ; I81/2 M.
Miinsterlingen, formerly a Benedictine abbey, now a lunatic asylum.
• — 21 M. Kreuzlingen (* Helvetia; Lowe), a pleasant little town
with the old Atigustinian abbey of that name, at present a seminary
for teachers. The church contains a curious piece of wood-carving
of the 18th cent., with about 1000 small figures.
STECKBORN. 11. Route. 31
22 M. Constance (a terminus station), see p. 28. The train
backs out and runs towards the W. through a fertile district. 23 M.
Emmit>hofen- Eyelshofen, 25 M. Tdgerweilen, thriving villages ;
on the Rhine, to the right, GottUeben (p. 25]. Near (28 M.)
Ermatingen f^JIoL-Pens. Adler, 'pens.' incl. R. 4'/2-5 fr. ; Krone)
we approach the green Vntersee, which we now skirt. Charming
views; in the distance, to the N.W., rise the peaks of the Hohgau
(p. 25). Near Ermatingen, on the height to the left, are the cha-
teaux of Wolfsherg and Hard; then Arenaberg (p. 25), and near
(281/2 M.) Mannenbach (*'Pens. Schiff, 4-5 fr.) the handsome Salen-
stein (comp. p. 25). To the right, in the lake, the large island of
Reichenau (p. 24); on the left, Schloss Eugensbery (p. 25). At
f 3OY2 M.) Berlingen the Untersee attains its greatest width [5 M. ),
after which it divides into two branches.
32 M. Steckborn (*Ldive ; Krone ; Sonne), a small town with
a castellated 'Kaufhaus', lately restored. Below it, on the right,
the iron-foundry of Feldbach, once a nunnery. On the right,
farther on, the mansion of Glarisegg ; to the left, in the wood,
the ruin of Neuburg. On the opposite (N.) bank are Wangen and
the hydropathic establishment of Marbach (p. 25).
36 M. Mammern (Ochs, at the station), Avith a chateau, used as
a *Hydropathic Establishment (pension). Then, on the right bank,
Oberstaad , and on the hill the abbey of Oehningen (p. 25). At
(37 M.) Eschenz the Untersee again narrows into the Rhine (p. 25).
We follow the left bank to the station for (39 M.) Stein (*Sonne;
*Rabe, moderate), on the right bank, commanded by the castle
of Hohenklingen ; and then turn to the left to (41 M.) Etziceilen,
the junction for Singen (p. 24).
On the left, as we proceed to the S., is the vine-clad and
wooded Stammheimer Berg (1716'). 43' 9 M. Stammheim , a large
village; 48' 2 M. Ossingen. We now cross the Thur by a bold iron
bridge, 148' high, borne by seven iron buttresses. Stations Tlinl-
heiju-AUikon, Dynhard, Seuzach, and Ob erw inter thur, a small town
with an old Romanesque church (tower modern), the Roman Vito-
durum (p. 46).
60 M. Winterthur and thence to (76^2 M.) Zurich, see p. 46.
12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich.
Coiitp. Maps, pp. 24, 3S.
35 31. Railwat (Xordostbahn) in 2 hrs.; to Winterthur 1 Lr., to Zurich
1 hr. (fares 6 fr., 4 fr. 20 c, 3 fr.). Views on the right.
Schaffhausen , see p. 23. The line skirts the lofty Fasenstaub
Promenade (p. 24), and passes below the villa Charlottenfels (p. 23).
On the right, high above, is the Waldshut railway (p. 23), which
passes through a tunnel under Charlottenfels. Immediately beyond
a long cutting we cross the Rheinfallbriicke (see p. 26), obtaining
32 Route 13. ZURICH.
a glinipso of the t;tlU to tlic riglit, and enter a tunnel, 71 yds. lonjr,
under Scldosft Laufen (p. 27j. On emerging, and looking back to
the right, we obtain another beautiful glance at the falls.
3 M. Dachsen (1296'; *H6tel Witzig, 11. & B. 2 fr. 75, B. 1 fr.
30 1-.) lies 1 M. to the S. of Schloss Laufen (comp. p. 26). As the
train proceeds, it affords pleasing views atintervals of the bluish-green
Rhine in its deep and narrow channel , enclosed by wooded banks.
51/-2 M. Marthalen. The valley of ( IQi/oM.) Andelfingen (1298';
Lowe) soon begins to open, and that thriving village appears in the
distance to the right, on the steep bank of the Thur. We approach it
by a wide curve, and cross the Thur above the village by an iron
bridge 113' high. We then skirt the river for a short distance, and
reach Andelfingen on the S. side. The site of the station has been
excavated in an ancient moraine.
The route is now less interesting. 13 M. Henggart, '/o ^- *" the
N.W. of which is the chateau of Goldenberg (pens., moderate).
14 M. Hettlingen. The vine-clad slopes of Neftenbach, to the right,
produce the best wines in N. Switzerland, the finest of which is
Oallenspitz. Near Winterthur the broad valley of the Toss is entered.
19 M. Winterthur, and thence to (35 M.) Zurich, see p. 46.
13. Ziirich and the Uetliberg.
Hotels. "^HoTEL Baur au Lac (PI. a; C, 3 ; closed in winter), with a
pardon on the lake, and delightful view, R., L., & A. from 5-6, lunch S'/^j
I). 5 fr. ; 'Kkllevue fPl. b; C, 4), on the lake, with fine view, R., L., <fe A.
4'/2-5, 1). 4-5 fr.: 'National (PI. d; F, 3), 'Victoria (PI. c; F, 3), R.,
L., & A. 3'/2-5, D. 4 fr., both oppcsite the station; *H. ve l'EimSk (PI. e;
E, 4), by the lower bridge, R. & L. from 3, D. 3-3V2 fr. ; *H6tel Baur-
ViLLK (PI. f; D, ,3), R., L., & A. from 3, D. 4 fr. ; -Hotel Habis (PI. g ; F, 8),
R., L., & A. 21/2-31/2, B. I1/4, D. 31/2 fr., at the station; *Hotel de Zurich
(PI. h; 0, 5j, R., L., & A. S'A, D- 31/2 fr.; 'CiGOGNe (PI. i; D, 4), commer-
cial; 'St. Gotthard (PI. k; F, 3) and *Wanner's Hotel (PI. 1; F, 3),
Bahnhof - Str.; Bayrischer Hof (PI. ra ; F, 3) and *Stadthof (PI. n ; F, 3, 4),
both near the station, moderate; Hot. Central (PI. o; F, 4), on the right
bank of the Limmat, near the station, U. incl. wine 3 fr. ; "Schweizeriiof
(PI. p; K, 4), R. &. A. 21/2, B. 11/,, I)., incl. wine, 31/2 fr., and 'Limmathof
(Pl.q; F, 4), on the Liminat-Quai ; Rothes Habs (PI. r; D, 4), and Seehof
(PI. s ; D, 4, 5), on the Uto-Quai; '"Sonne, Krone, Hirsch, Lamm, Lowe, etc.,
unpretending. Visitors are received at all these hotels ett pension, the
charges being reduced in spring and autumn. — Pensions. "Pension Neptun
at Seefeld, near Ziirich, 6-7 fr.; near it, *Weisses Kredz and Pension
Hacser; Sonne, at Unterstrass; Tiefenau, at Hottingen; Karolinenburo
and Forster, at Fluntern, on the hill, IV2 M. to the E. of Ziirich. The
BOrgli Terrace and Waiu, see p. 33. The 'Uetliberg, see p. 37.
Restaurants and Cafes. 'Rail. Restaurant; Cafis National and Hahis,
both near the station; St. Gotthard, irawner, Bahnhof-Str. ; Baur; Central,
Centralhof. On the right bank : Kronenhalle, D. incl. wine 2 fr. ; Tonhalle
(seep. 33), on the lake, 1). (11 to 2) 3 fr.; /Saif;'a», opposite the Rathhaus ;
Summer Restaurant in the Platz Promenade. — Ices. Sprilngli, Parade-
Platz; Bourry, Untere Kirchgasse, on the Uto-Quai. — Beer. Cafi Orsini,
Frau-Miinsterplatz, behind the Hotel Baur; Gambrinus, SchofTelgasse; Siadi-
keller, behind the Limmathof; Metzgerhriiu, Beatengasse ; Boiler, on the
quay; Weishaar, Steingiisse; Sfrohhof; Cafe de Paris; Blaue Fahne; Meierei,
etc.; Drahlschmidli, opposite the Platzspitz (PI. H, 3), with garden on the
^e^tel<tQMiii
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r.eo|rajill.Allst vTragner fDe1i.'s . Leipzig
ZURICH. 13. Route. 33
Limmat; also at the above cafe's. — Wine. Valtellina wine at the Vellliner-
halle. Italian wines : Fratelli Dorta, in the Eiermarkt.
Popular Besorts. 'Tonhalle (PI. C, 5) on the lake, with an open pavi-
lion and restaurant; concerts every evening in summer (60 c). Flora
Theater, open both summer and winter. Zitr Platte (PI. E, 6), winter-
garden, adjoining the Polytechnic (theatre in summer). 'BUrgli Terrace,
1/2 M. to the S.W., on the road to the Uetliberg (p. 38). The ~Waid
on the Kaferberg , 3 M. to the N. W. of the town. The "Sonnenberff,
on the slope of the Ziirichherg, above Hottingen. The "Uetliberg is the
finest point in the environs (by railway in ','2 hr. ; see p. 37). — Informa-
tion as to excursions, objects of interest, etc., may be obtained at the
Offizielles Verkehrs-Bureau. on the ground-floor of the Exchange buildings.
Baths in the lake at the Stadthaus-Platz (PI. C, 4), at the suburb of
Enge (PI. A, 3), and, for ladies , in the Limmat below the Bauschanzc
(PI. C, D, 4). At the S. end of the town, on the E. bank of the lake, are
the Netimiinster Baths (PL D, 5). — Warm Baths (vapour, etc.) at the Werd-
miihle Baths, in the Bahnhof-Str., and at Stacker's, in the Miihlgarten.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 3), Bahnhof-Strasse ; branch-offices
by the museum on the Limmat-Quai (p. 35) and at the railway-station.
Cabs. Drive within the town, or not e.xceeding '/» lir., 1-2 pers. 80c.,
3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c., each box 20c.; in the evening 10c. extra for the lamps;
from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. For V2 lir., 1 fr. 50 c. or 2 fr. 20c.;
3/4 hr., 2fr. or 2 fr. 90 c; 1 hr., 2 fr. 50c. or 3fr. 60 c. etc.
Tramway from the Central Station through the Bahnhof-Str. to the
suburb of Enge, across the Bahnhofbriicke and by the Limmat-Quai and
Uto-'Juai to Riesbach and Tiefenbrvnnen (near Zollikon), and from the
Parade-Platz, eastwards to the cemetery of Anssersihl.
Cable Tramway (Ziirichbergbahn) from the Limmat-Quai to the Poly-
technic (PI. F, 4, 5). every few min. from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. (in summer from
G a.m. to 9.30 or 10 p.m.; fare, in either direction, 10 c. ; journey 2V2min.).
The tramway, which is an interesting specimen of engineering skill, is
185 yds. long and mounts to a height of 130 ft.
Steamboats (see p. 39) start below the Tonhalle (PI. C, 5) and at the
Stadthaus-Platz. — Rowing-boats for 1-2 pers. 50 c. per hour ; for 3 or more
pers. 20c. each per hour; each rower 60c. per hour.
Railway Stations. Central Station (PI. F, G, 3, 4) at the lower (N.)
end of the town , 3/4 31. from the lake (omnibus 75, each box 20 c). —
Enge Station (PI. B. 2), on the left bank of the lake (p. 41). — Uetliberg
Station, at Selnau (PI. D, 1, 2 ; see p. 37).
English Church Service in the Chapel of St. Anne (PI. E, 3), near the
Pelikan-Str.. at 8.30, lU.30, & 5.30 (3.30 in winter). Chaplain: Rev. Dr. .1/.
Heidenheini (editor of Anglican Church Leaves). — Presbyterian Service
(Church of Scotland) in summer.
British Consul. Henry Angst. Esq., 7 Centralhof; office -hours 10-12.
— American Consul. Geo. L. Catlin, Esq., Borsen-Str. 14 , offlce-hours
9-12 and 3-4 p.m.
Permanent Exhibition, at Staub tO Ws., Parade-Platz (gratis).
Zurich (1345'; pop. 27,632, or with the suburbs upwards of
86,000), the Roman Turicum, the capital of the canton, lies at the
N. end of the lake, on the green and rapid ijmma<, which divides it
into the ' Orosse StadV on the right , and the ^Kleine Stadf on the
left bank. On the W. side flows the Sihl, an unimportant stream ex-
cept in spring, which falls into the Limmat below the town. Ziirich
is one of the busiest manufacturing towns in Switzerland, silk and
cotton being the staple products. (There are 10,000 silk-looms in
this canton.) At the same time it is the intellectual centre of German
Switzerland. Its schools are in high repute, having for centuries sent
forth men of distinction, such as Bodmer, Hottinger, Orelli, Gessner,
Baedekeb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 3
34 Route 13. ZURICH. Situation.
Lavater, Hess, Pestalozzi, Heidegger, Horner, Hirzel, Henry Meyer,
the friend of Goethe, and many others.
The Situation of Zurich is very beautiful. Both banks of the clear,
pale-green lake are enlivened with villages, orchards, and vineyards, scat-
tered over a highly cultivated country. In the background rise the snow-
capped Alps; to the left is the crest of the Glcirnisch, then the perpendicular
sides of the Oriese/stock (,9200')., near it on the right the P/annstock, and farther
on, the Drusberg., the ice-clad Bifertenstock. and the Todi (the highest of the
group, the two last rising above the Linththal); in front of these the Cla-
rideii, with their westernmost point the A'awwwZwtoct (10,610'); between this
and the double-peaked Scheerhorn lies the Gries Glacier; then on the N.
side of the Schachenthal the long Ross-Slock Chain with its fantastic peaks;
the broad Windgelle ; between this and the Scheerhorn appears the dark
summit of the lower Mylhe near Schwyz ; above the depression between
the wooded Kaiserslock and the Rossberg towers the pyramidal Bristenslock,
near Amsteg on the St. Gotthard route ; then, if we occupy a commanding
position, the Blackenstock and Uri-Rothstock , and part of the snow-moun-
tains of the Engelberger Thai, appearing above the Albis. To the right
rises the Albis, the northernmost point of which is the Uetliberg, with the
hotel on its summit.
As the beauty of its situation is the great attraction of Zurich, our
walk through the town is so planned as to conduct the traveller to the
finest Points of View in the shortest possible time. No one should omit
to visit the Terrace in front of the Polytechnic and the Jlohe Pro/nenade.
In the Baknhof - Platz (PI. F, 4) a bronze Statue of Alfred
Escher (d. 1882), the statesman and founder of the St. Gotthard
Railway, by Kissling, was erected in 1889. The Bahnhof-Strasse
(PI, F, C, 3), nearly ^j^ M. long, leads hence S. to the lake. It passes
on the right, in the Linth-Escher-Platz (PI. F. 3), the Linth-Escher
School; then, on the right, the Post Office and the Credit- Anstalt
(PI. D, 3) ; on the left the Centralhof, a block of houses with tempt-
ing shops, and the Kappeler Hof; and on the right the Ziirich Can-
tonal Bank and the Exchange (PI. C, 3). The Stadthaus - Platz,
which is adorned with flower-beds and shrubs , is adjoined by a
Terrace on the lake (PI. C, 4), commanding a beautiful view; to
the right of the latter is the steamboat-quay, to the left, a bathing-
establishment (p. 33). The broad Alpen-Quai skirts the lake to the
right as far as the attractive new *Park, near the suburb of Enge;
in the park, which enjoys a fine view of the town , the lake, and
the Alps, is an Arboretum with Alpine and foreign plants and
interesting geological specimens.
To the E. from the Stadthaus-Platz the handsome *Quaibriicke
(PI. C, 4; 180 yds. long), constructed in 1882-83 by Holzmann
andBenkiser, crosses the Limmat near its issue from the lake. Below
the bridge, on the left bank of the Limmat, is the Bauschanze, a
small pentagonal island with walled sides (formerly a bastion),
shaded with trees, and connected with the bank by a bridge. On
the right bank, we cross the Touhalle-Platz and ascend the Rami-
Strasse (to the left is the Swiss exhibition of articles used in build-
ing, adm. free), then turn to the right to the *Hohe Promenade
(PI. C, 5, 6), a loftily situated avenue of lime-trees. Beautiful view
(best by morning - light, see Panorama by Keller) from the plateau
with the Monument of Ndyeli (d. 1836), a favourite vocal composer,
Polytechnic. ZURICH. ij. Route. 35
erected 'von den schweizerischen Sangervereinen ihrem Vater Na-
geli'. Adjacent is the old Cemetery (PI. C, 5, 6), containing many
handsome monuments.
From the N. end of the Hohe Promenade a road passing the N. side
of the cemetery rejoins the Rami-Strasse, at a square, planted with
trees, in which (to the left) is the marble monument of Ignaz Eeim
(1883), who set many Swiss popular songs to music. The street
ascends past the Tum-Platz to the Cantonal School (PI. E, 6), com-
prising a grammar and an industrial school, and then bends to the
N. To the left is the new Physical Institute, to the right are the
Cantonal Hospital (PI. F, 6), the School of Forestry and Agriculture,
and the new Chemical Laboratory (PI. G, 5).
The handsome *Polytechnic (PL F, 5), designed by G. Semper
(d. 1878), and erectedin 1861-64, is the seat of the University of Zurich
(founded in 1832; 400 students, 88 professors and lecturers) and
of the federal Polytechnic School (founded in 1855; 800 students).
In the vestibule and on tbe staircase are busts of Kopp and Bolley, tlie
chemists, O. Semper (d. 1879), and Culinann, the engineer. On the ground-
floor are the Archaeological Collection (casts, Greek vases, 'Terracottas from
Tanagra, etc.; Sun. 10-12, Tues. and Frid. 2-4); on the first floor the Mine-
ralogical and Palaeontological ; on the second floor the Zoological Collection
(Thurs. 8-12 and 2-6) and the Aula, handsomely decorated , with mytho-
logical ceiling-paintings by Bin of Paris and a marble bust of Orelli (d.
1849), the celebrated philologist , by Meili. Splendid view from the bal-
cony. The Collection of Engineering is shown only to professional engi-
neers. The Mechanical and Technical Collection is open daily , 8-12 and
2-6 (adm. 50 c); the Semper Museum (in the Architectural School), on Mon.,
Wed., & Sat. 2-4 (gratis).
The terrace of the Polytechnic commands the finest survey of
the town. — To the S. of the Polytechnic, on the slope of the hill, is
s.n Asylum for the Blind and I>umh{?\. 5); lower down to the left,
the Kunstgebaude ('Kiinstler-Giitli' ; PI. E, 5), containing the Pic-
ture Gallery of the Artists' Union (open on Sat. 2-4, Sun. 10-12,
free ; at other times, 60 c).
Pictures by the older Zurich artists (chiefly portraits) : ff. Asper, J.
Ainmann, S. Hofmann, K. Meyer^ and others. Millenet, Return of the Zii-
richers from the battle of Tattwyl ; Angelica Kauffmann, Winckelmann ;
Fussly, Portrait of Bodmer; L. Hess, Landscapes; Scheuchzer, The Fuscher-
thal; Deschwanden, The Maries at the Sepulchre; Steffan, Mountain tor-
rent; Boschard, Scenes from the history of Zurich; Roller, The Engel-
berger Thai, Midday repose, Autumn evening ; Holzhalb , The Wetter-
horn; Diday, At the Handeck, Scene in the Valais; Yeillon , Evening on
the Lake of Lucerne; Girardet, The sick child; Anker, Pestalozzi; Grob,
The artist on his travels; Frohlicher, Forest scene in Upper Bavaria; Toiler,
Wedding in the Amperthal; Corrodi, Uncle and nieces; Eug. Girardet,
Halt in the desert ; Stiickelberg, Charcoal-burner in the Jura ; Buchser,
Italian pastoral scene ; 'Siicklin, Spring ; Baade, Sea-pieces ; Rigaud, Por-
traits ; Tischbein, Portrait of Bodmer ; Marie Ellenrieder, Portrait of a man.
We descend from the Kunstgebaude to the lower town, either
by steep streets or (preferably) by the cable -tramway (p. 33) from
the N.E. side of the Polytechnic, and turn to the left along the
Limmat-Quai. At the Markthrucke (PI. E, 4) we see on our left
the Rathhaus (PI. D, E, 4), a massive building of 1699, on our right
3*
36 Route 13. ZURICH. Town Library.
the handsome Fleischhalle, or meat-market (PI. E, 4), and opposite
to it the Lese-Museum (introduction by a member required).
Crossing the Rathhaus-Quai on which is the Riiden, restored in
the German Renaissance style, containing the Swiss educational
exhibition and the Pestalozzi cabinet, we next come to the Milnster-
briicke (PI. D, 4). Adjoining the bridge on the left is an open
vestibule leading to the Town Library (apply at the shop in the cor-
ner to the right), established in an old church (1479), known as
the Wasserkirche, from its having once stood in the water, and en-
larged in 1860. It contains 110,000 vols, and many valuable MSS.
(open on week-days 9-12 and 4-6 ; fee 50 c., for a party 1 fr.).
A letter of Zwinrjli (see below) to his wife; Zwiugli's Greek Bible with
Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting ; autograph letter of Henry I V.
of France and a cast of his features; three autograph Latin letters of Lady
Jane Orey to Antistes Bullinger; letter o( Frederick the Great, dated 1784,
to Prof. Miiller-, Portraits of burgomasters and scholars of Ziirich, includ-
ing Zioingli; marble bust of Lavater by Dannecker; marble bust of Pesta-
lozzi by Imhof-, eight panes of stained glass of 1506. "MiiUer''s Relief of part
of Switzerland, and one of the Engelberger Thai on a much larger scale,
are executed with great care and accuracy.
The Helmhaus, adjoining the Wasserkirche, contains the Anti-
quarian Museum (adm. daily, 8-12 and 2-6, fee 50 c. Wed. after-
noon free), including a large and excellent collection of relics from
the ancient Swiss lake-villages, coins, etc. — On the Quai at the
W. end of the Wasserkirche is a bronze Statue ofZwingli (see bolow),
by Natter, erected in 1885.
The steps opposite the Miinsterbrucke lead to the Gross-Munster
(PI. D, 4), erected in the Romanesque style of the 11 - 13th cen-
turies. The upper stories of the towers are Gothic, and in 1799
they were crowned with helmet- shaped tops with gilded flowers.
On the W. tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown and
sword, in recognition of donations made by him to the church. The
choir contains three large modern stained-glass windows represent-
ing Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. — Zwingli was the incumbent
of this church from 1519 down to his death in 1531 (p. 71).
On the adjacent si(e of the residence of the canons now stands the
Toehlerschule , erected in 1851 in the same style as the church. In the
interior are Cloisters, of the beginning of the 13th cent., which were
restored in 1851 , and adorned with a statue of Charlemagne. — The
church and cloisters are open daily in summer from 11 to 12 (adm. 20c.).
We now return by the Miinsterbrucke to the left bank of the
Limmat. On the left we pass the Frau-Miinsterkirche (PI. T>, 4),
built in the middle of the 13th cent., with a high red-roofed tower.
Adjacent is the Peterskirche with its massive tower and large
electric clock (dials 29' in diameter) , where Lavater (d. 1801)
was pastor for twenty-three years. In the direction of the Bahn-
hof-Str., is the late-Gothic Augustine Church (PI. E, 3), which
served for three hundred years as a magazine, but was again fitted
up as a church in 1848, and is now used by the 'Old Catholics'. Two
altar-pieces by Descliwanden.
Botanic Garden. ZtfRICH. 13. Route. 37
In the vicinity , nearly in the centre of the town , rises the
Lindenhof (PI. I) , 3 , 4) , 123' above the Limmat, once a Celtic
settlement, and afterwards an imperial palace. A little to the N.
are the large House of Correction (PI. E, F, 3, 4) and the Orphan
Asylum (PI. F, 4).
Crossing the Bahnhof-Str. and following the Pelikan-Str., we
reach the Botanic Garden (PI. D, 2), which is well stocked with
Alpine plants , and (contains hronze busts of A. P. de Candolle
(d. 1841) and Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), and marble busts of
H. Zollinger, a Swiss botanist (d. in Java, 1859), and Oswald Heer
(d. 1883), the naturalist. In the garden rises the Eatz, a bastion
of the old fortress, forming a lofty platform planted with trees.
To the E. of the Botanic Garden a bridge crosses the Schanzen-
graben (the old moat) to the suburb of Selnau. Immediately to the
left is the Gewerbe-Museum (PI. D, 2), containing industrial collec-
tions (including a *Room from a patrician house of the 17th cent,
with fine panelling and stove) and a permanent exhibition (seen
daily, 8-12 and 2-5, except Mon.). Beyond it, towards the >Sihl, is
the Uelliherg Station (PI. D, 1 ; see below).
In Aussersihl, a new artizans' quarter on the left bank of the
Sihl, is the Military Depot oH^Sinton Ziirich, including barracks and
an arsenal. The Collection of Arms in the arsenal (PI. F, G, 1 ;
open on week-days 8-12 and 1.30-6) consists of battle-axes, hal-
berds, armour, flags, and cross-bows, among which last is one of the
many which claim to have belonged to Tell. Zwingli's Battle-axe,
taken by the Lucerners at Kappel (p. 71), and once kept at Lucerne,
was transferred hither, after the War of the Separate League in 1847,
and is now preserved here with his sword, coat of mail, and helmet.
— In the Grosse Werdstrasse in Aussersihl is the new Roman
Catholic Church (PL E, 1), embellished with good stained glass
and altarpieces by Balmer and iJeschwanden.
The Platzpromenade (PI. G, H, 3, 4j, so called from the former
Schiitzen-Platz, an avenue of fine trees, to the N. of the railway-station,
between the Sihl and Limmat, aflords a cool and pleasant walk. In this
promenade are the Nageli Museum of stuffed Alpine animals (.50 c), the town
Aquarium (20 c.) and the simple monuments of the idyllic poet Salomon,
Gessner (d. 1788J and the minnesinger Joh. Hadlaub. It terminates in the
'Platzspitz', a point of land formed by the junction of the Sihl with the
Limmat. A bridge crosses the Limmat to the Drahtschmidli (PI. H, 3j, a
beer-garden on the right bank; and this is also the pleasantest route lo
the Waid (p. 33; we ascend the flight of steps, behind the Drahtschmidli,
to the right, to the upper road). — On the right bank of the Limmat,
opposite the Platzpromenade, lies the manufacturing quarter of Zurich,
with the extensive engine -works of Escher, Wyss, <t Co. (PI. H, 4), who
have built most of the steamboats that ply on the Swiss and Italian lakes.
The TJetliberg.
Railway to the top in V2 hr. (fare 1st class 3 fr. 50 c, 2nd cl. 2 fr.;
return-ticket , 5 and 3 fr. ; family-tickets for 10 trips up and 10 down,
available for a year, 20 f r. ; on Sun. and holidays from 10 a.m. 2nd cl.
return-ticket 2 fr. This line, h^ji M. long, with a maximum gradient of 7'
in 100', is constructed in the ordinary way, but, as on the Rigi Railway, the
3S Jloute 13. UETLIBERG.
locomotives are placed behind the trains. The station is in the subnrh
of Selnau (p. 37; P. D, 1), not far from the Botanic Garden, on the Sihl,
'/4 hr. from the Central Station and 12 rain, from that of Enge.
The trai7i skirts the Sihl for a short distance and crosses it to
(b min. ) Stat. Wiedikon (1390'), where the ascent begins. At first
we traverse an open slope, with a pleasant view of Zurich and the
valley of the Limmat, and then enter a wood. (17 min.) Stat. Wald-
egg (2040'). The train then describes a long curve on the slope of
the hill and reaches the terminus. About 5 min. above the station
is the large *H6t.-Pens. Vetliberg (R. & A. 4-5, B. II/4, D. 4; pens,
from Sept. onwards 7'/2-9 fr.), and 3 min. higher, at the top of the
hill, is the ^Restaurant Vto- Kulm. Pleasant shady walks in the
woods near the hotel. On the S. side, about 1/4 hr. from the top, on
the footpath to Ziirich , is the *H6tel Uto-Staffel (pens. 5 fr.).
The *TJetliberg (2864'), the northernmost point of the Albis
range, is the finest point in the environs of Ziirich. The view,
though inferior in grandeur to those from heights nearer the Alps,
surpasses them in beauty. It embraces the Lake of Ziirich and the
valley of the Limmat; the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau and
the Stockhorn on the Lake of Thun, with the Rigi and Pilatus in the
foreground ; to the W. the Jura, from the Chasseral on the Lake of
Bienne to its spurs near Aarau , over which appear some of the
Vosges Mts. ; farther N. are the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black
Forest, and the volcanic peaks of the Hohgau, Hohentwiel, Hohen-
howen, and Hohenstoffeln. The Abbey of Muri (9 M. distant),
with a facade 750' in length, is distinctly seen by morning light
(p. 21). Baden with its old castle (p. 19) is also prominent. A
good panorama by Keller. — On the Uto-Kulm is a marble obelisk
with a bust of the Ziirich statesman Jakob Dubs (d. 1879).
Walk to the Uetliberg (2 hrs.). The road leads to the W. through
the suburb of £nge. Where the telegraph-wires diverge to the left, we go
straight on (to the left is the Biirgli, p. 33). After 1 M. (from the Hotel
Baur) we cross the Sihl, turn to the left in the direction of the mountain,
and reach (3/< M.) the AlbisgiiUi (tavern; cab to this point 2-3 fr.). We
now turn to the right and ascend by a well-trodden path winding some-
what steeply up the valley, to the Bdtel Uto-Staffel (see above), on the
brow of the hill, where a view of the Rigi, Pilatus, and the Bernese
Alps is disclosed. Near the inn is an inscription to the memory of F. von
Diirler, who lost his life here in 1840. To the summit 20 min. more.
From the Uetliberg to the Albis-Hochwacht, a beautiful walk of
3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis range, and chiefly througli
wood. A few minutes' walk beyond the Hotel Uto-Staffel (see above) Wf
keep to the right where the path divides (finger-post), and follow a good
path, which is even practicable for carriages , skirting the crest of the
mountain. Fine view horn the Felsenegg (l{eata,nTa.nt; finger-post). To the
left is the ravine of the Sihl, beyond it the blue lake with its thousand
glittering dwellings, to the right the pretty Tiirler See, and farther distant
a fertile hilly tract, with the Alps towering in the distance. — 2'/2 hrs.
Ober- Albis (2GU0'; Inn). Beautiful view from the Albis-Hochwacht or
Schnabel (28S5'), '/z '>''• to the S.; still more extensive from the Albishorn
(3010'), '/2 ^'■- farther to the S. From the Hochwaclit a good forest-path
leads to the E. (finger-post) to the forester's house of Unter-Sihlwald (good
quarters), on the Sihl, and to (l'/4 hr.) Ilovgen (p. 40); while to the W. a
road leads past the small Tiirler .See to (3 M.) Hansen (p. 71).
-.km, / .^
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Vri.^eT A Tl*'^- r- f ' --irrijj
39
14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and
Walenstadt.
Comp. Maps. pp. 52, 60.
79 M. Railway to Coire by Wallisellen, Rapperswyl, Weesen, and Sar-
gans in 33/4-4^4 hrs. (12 fr. 45, 8fr. 75, 6fr. 25 c.)- The train does not ap-
proach the Lake of Zurich till it reaches Rapperswyl. — Railway on the
Left (S.) Bank from Ziirich to Richterswyl and Glarus : to Ziegelbriicke
(p. 43, junction for Weesen) 36 SI., in li/o-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4fr. 25, 3fr. 5c.);
to Glarus, 43 M., in 2-21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c). Comp. E. 19.
Steamboat, preferable to the railway, on the right (N.) bank to Rap-
perswyl 7 times daily in 2V4 brs. (2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 80 c). Smaller steamers
ply between the N. and S. banks. Steamboat on the left (S.) bank to
Horgen 4-5 times daily in I-IV4 hr., to Richterswyl twice in 2 hrs. From
Rapperswyl to Schmerikon, thrice daily in 1 hr. 10 minutes.
The *Lake Of Zurich (1342'), 25 M. long, 21/2 M. broad at its widest
part, and 470' deep, is fed by the Linth and drained by the Limmat.
Its scenery, though with no pretension to grandeur, is scarcely
equalled in beauty by that of any other Swiss lake. The banks rise
in gentle slopes, at the base of which are meadows and arable land ;
above these is a belt of vineyards and orchards, and on the E. side
the hills, here about 2500' high, are wooded. Being sprinkled for
a long distance with houses, villages, and manufactories, the banks
are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of Ziirich. In the
background a long chain of snow-clad Alps (see p. 34).
i. Steamboat Journey.
Left (W. & S.) Bank.
The steamer passes the suburb
of Enge. On the right rises the
long ridge of the Albis ; before
us in the distance tower the Alps
of Uri and Glarus. Wollishofen,
prettily situated, is the first sta-
tion. The next (24 min. from
Zurich) is Bendii'fcon (Lowe), be-
longing to the T^aivish of Kilchberg,
which lies on the hill above. A-
bove stat. Riischlikon is the rustic
Nidelbad (1 M. by the road), with
a chalybeate spring and charming
■walks. Stat. Ludretikon (Krone,
rustic). Then —
(3/4 hr.) Thalwyl (Adler, by
the church, 1 M. from the lake),
a large village, charmingly situat-
ed. *View of the lake from the
church, or better from the tower.
Stat. Oberrieden ; then —
Right (E. & N.) Bank.
First station, Neumiinster, a
suburb of Zurich, with a hand-
some church loftily situated. Then
Zoliikon, Ooldbach, and (1/2 ^^^
from Zurich) Kusnacht (*Sonne),
with a seminary for teachers.
Erlenbach , beautifully situa-
ted. Between Herrliberg, and Thal-
wil is the deepest part of the lake
(470'). Stations Feldrneilen s^nd —
Meilen (Lowe ; Sonne) , a
large village with an old church,
at the foot of the Pfannenstiel.
The Ffannenstiel (OkensJw/ie,
2418'), to which a good path ascends
from Meilen in 1 hr., aifords a charm-
ing view of the lakes of Zurich and
Greifenand of the Alps from Sentis to
Pilatus (panorama by Keller). Monu-
ment to L. Oken (d. 1851), a famous
naturalist, and refreshment-pavilion
at the top. Panorama by Keller.
At Obermeilen the first dis-
40 Route 14.
LAKE OF ZURICH.
From Ziirioh
Left (W. & S.) Bank.
(I-I1/4 hr.) Horgen (pop.
5476 ; Schwan ; *Luu-e ; Schutzen-
haus, a cafe on the lake ), witli
handsome houses chiefly belong-
ing to the silk manufacturers,
pleasantly situated amidst vine-
yards and orchards.
About l'/'2 M. above it is the A'«r-
haus Bockeii (p. 72). The ° Zimmerhevg
(1 hr.), see p. 72. — To Zug diligence
daily in 21/2 hrs., see p. 72.
The picturesque peninsula of
Au, with its orchards and mea-
dows, projects far into the lake
on the S. bank {^Hotel, pension
5 fr.). To the E., in the back-
ground, rises the Speer (p. 44);
to the left of it the Sentis, beyond
which tower the Toggenburg Mts . ;
to the right, above the lake, the
wooded Hohe Rhonen (4042'), and
farther distant the mountains of
Glarus (comp. Keller's panorama).
(2 hrs.) Wadenswyl (1348' ;
pop. 6342 ; *Engel, facing the
quay, R. IV2-2V2, B. 1, pens.
5 fr. ; Hotel du Lac) is the largest
village on the lake.
Railway to Einsiedeln, see p. 96.
— Diligence twice daily in Ihr.iOmin.
via Schonenherg to the whey - cure
resort of Hiitten (2428'; Biir ; Kreuz),
prettily situated above the little
HUttnersee.
In a few minutes more the
steamer reaches Richterswyl
(pop. 3910; *Drei Koniye, or
Post; *Engel), the last station on
the S. bank.
To SCHINDELLEGI fp. 96) S'/z M.,
by (IM.) Wollerau (2'/4M. to the E. is
the prettily situated Kurhaus Feusis-
lerg). The nearer footpath (55 min.)
ascends to the right by the apothe-
cary's at the end of Richterswyl,
crossing the road several times and
affording fine retrospects. By a large
walnut-tree at the top of the first hill
we take the narrow path to the left.
Right (E. & N.) Bank.
covery of lake - dwellings was
made in 1854. Stations Vetikon,
Mannedorf (Wilder Mann), and —
Stafa (pop. 3835; Sonne;
RossU ; Restaur, zum Seethal, with
garden), the largest village on
the N. bank, and noted for tlie
prominent part it has always
taken in all national movements.
Near Stafa the lake attains its
greatest breadth (2'/2M.). Fine
view of the S. bank. Stations
Kehlhof, Verikon, Schirmensee
(Rossli). On the right are the
small flat islands of Liltzelau and
Vfnau, in front of the wooded
heights of the Etzel.
U/nau, the property of the abbey
of Einsiedeln, contains a farm-house,
and a church and chapel consecrated
in 1141. Ulrich von Iluiten, the re-
former, one of the boldest and most
independent men of his time, sought
refuge here when pursued by his
enemies in 1523, and died a fortnight
after his arrival, at the age of 36. His
remains repose in the little church-
yard, but the exact spot is unknown.
Rapperswyl (pop. 2805;
*Cygne, on the lake, R. 1V2-2,
pens. 6-7 fr.; *HotelduLac, R.,
L., & A. 3V2 fr. ; Poste, at the
station , with garden ; *Fr€ihof),
a picturesquely situated town,
lies at the foot of the Lindenhof,
a hill planted with limes (flue
view), on which rises a black
marble column with the Polish
eagle, erected in memory of the
beginning of the hundred years'
struggle of the Poles for indepen-
dence. The old Sddoss, restored
in 1871, contains the Polish Na-
tional Museum, founded by Count
R. Plater (adm. 1 fr. ; splendid
view from the tower). The Parish
Church, re-erected since a fire in
1881, contains valuable sacred
vessels.
to Coire. WAGGITHAL. 14. Rnute. 41
In 1878 the old wooden bridge connecting Rapperswyl with Hurden and
Pfafftkon was replaced by the Seedamm, a viaduct 1024 yds. in length and
12 yds. in width. Near the N. end are two iron bridges, each 47>/2 yds. long,
and near the S. end a third, 95 yds. in length. There are also twenty other
openings , each 10 yds. wide, and a swing-bridge 15V2 yds. long , for the
passage of vessels. The Railway (from Kapperswyl to Pfafflkon, 3M., in
lOmin.), the high-road, and a footway protected by a railing, cross the
lake by means of this embankment. A walk upon it is recommended for
the sake of the view. About 20 yds. below it, near the S. bank, rises the
Dreilanderstein, an obelisk 33' in height, marking the convergence of the
boundaries of the cantons of Ziirich, Schwyz, and St. Gallen, and bearing
the arms of each.
The upper part of the lake is grander and less thickly peopled
than the lower. The mountains of Appenzell and Glarus form the
background ; while in the extreme distance appear the Toggen-
burg Mts.
The steamer passes through the Seedamm and approaches the
S. hank. To the right is the Etzel (p. 96). On the slope above
tlie station of Altendorf lie the pilgrimage-chapel of St. Johann,
and the Johannisburg Restaurant (pens., 4-5 fr. per day), with a
fine view. In about 25 min. after leaving Rapperswyl, the steamer
reaches the considerable village of Lachen (*Oc]is, moderate), and
beyond the marshy promontory formed by the Wciggithaler Aa, it
touches at the little Bad Nuolen, at the W. base of the Vntere
Buchhery (1975'). It now steers across the lake to BoUingen, on the
N. bank, with large quarries, and to (1 hr. 10 min. from Rappers-
wyl) Schmerikon (*Rdssli; Seehof; Adler), situated at the upper
end of the lake, near the mouth of the Linth (p. 43).
ii. Hallway on the Left (S.) Bank from Ziirich to Ziegelbriicke
(and Glarus).
The train describes a wide curve round the town, crossing the
Sihl twice, passes under the Uetliberg line, and at (3 M.) Enge
(p. 33) approaches the lake, which it skirts all the way to Lachen,
affording beautiful views to the left. Stations Wollishofen, Bendli-
kon- Kilchberg, Ruschlikon, T/wtoyi (all described above), Oberrie-
den, and (11 M.) Horgen (p. 40). The peninsula of ^u (station)
lies to the left. I51/2 M- Wadenswyl (railway to Einsiedeln, see
p. 90); 171/2 M- Eichterswyl. The lake attains its greatest width
here (21/2 M.). Towards the E. rise the mountains of the Toggen-
burg and Appenzell. To the left, farther on, are the islands of
Vfnau and Liitzelau (p. 40). 21 M. Pfdffikon (Hot. Hofe); railway
across the lake to Rapperswyl, see above. At (25 M.) Lachen (see
above) the train quits the lake , and near (271/2 M.) Siebnen-
Wangen it crosses the Wdggithaler Aa.
W&ggithal. The road follows first the left and then the right bank
of the deep channel of the Aa to (4 M.) Vorder- Wdggithal (2400'), pleas-
antly situated in a green basin. It then leads through the defile of
Stockerli, between the Grosse Aitberg (55S4'J on the right and the Gtigel-
herg (3780') on the left, to (4 M.) Hinler-Waggithnl, or Innerthal (3800'),
"" 1 M. beyond which we reach the Badhaus d- Kin/iai's of that name
42 lioute 14. BACHTEL. From Zurich
{closed in 1888). Pleasant excursions to the Au (20 min.); E. to the
Fliischenlochquelle ('/4 hr.); to the Aaberli-Alp (35i6'), '/z hr.; Hohjldschen-
Alp (4726'), I'/z hr. — The Grosse Auberg (5584'), ascended by the Bdrlaui-
Alp in 3 hrs., and the Fluhberg, or Diethelm (6873'), by the Flaschli-Alp in
4 hrs., are good points of view and present no difliculty (guide desirable).
— From Innerthal to the Klonthal a pleasant route (to Eichisau 4 hrs. ;
guide advisable). Skirting the Aabach, the path ascends, past the AabeiTi-
Alp (3566') and the Obev-Alp (5060'), to the (2 hrs.) Karrenegg, or Schwein-
alp Pass (5150'), and then descends by the BriischAlp and the Schwein-Alp
to (2 hrs.) Richisau (p. 66).
We now traverse a somewhat marshy plain to (31 M.) Reichen-
burg. On the right rise the Glarus Mts., on the left the Untere and
Obere Buchberg (p. 43), and above them the Speer (p. 44). 341/.2M.
Bilten (Hirsch) ; in the 'Herrenstube' is a handsome apartment with
artistic wood-carving of the 17th century. We cross the Linth Canal
(p. 43) to the Rapperswyl and Coire railway at (36 M.) Ziegelbriicke
(p. 43). Thence to (43 M.) Glarus, see p. 59.
iii. Railway from Ziirich to Rapperswyl, Weesen, and Sargans.
From Ziirich to (6 M.) Wallisellen, p. 46. The line traverses a
flat district, near the right bank of the Olatt, which flows ont of
the Greifensee (1440' ; not visible from the line). Stations Diiben-
dorf, Schwerzenbach, and Ndnikon. — 14 M. Uster (1530'; Stern;
Usterkof; Kreuz)^ a large manufacturing village, with 6795 inhab.
On the right is the church with its pointed spire, and the loftily
situated old castle with its massive tower, now the seat of the dis-
trict court (Restaurant ; fine view). In the vicinity are several large
cotton-mills, driven by the Aa, a brook near the railway. A little
to the N.E. of (16 M.) Aathal is the Lake of Pfaffikon (1775'), of
which we obtain a glimpse beyond the third short tunnel. The Alps
of Glarus and Schwyz form the S. background. From (18 M. j
Wetzikon branch-lines diverge to the N.W. to Pfaffikon and Effreti-
kon (p. 46), and to the S.E. (in 10 min.) to Hinweil (Hirsch;
Kreuz), at the N.W. base of the Bachtel (see below). Near (21 M.)
Bubikon the line attains its highest level (1800')! 221/2 M. Riiti,
with a former Prsemonstratensian abbey, is the junction of the Toss-
thnl Line (p. 47).
The Bachtel (3670' ; "Inn), 2 hrs. to the If.E. of Riiti, commands a fine view
to the N.W. over the district of Uster, sprinkled with factories, and the lakes
of Greifen and Pfaffikon ; to the S. the Lake of Zurich from Wiidenswyl
to the Linth Canal, the Linth Valley as far as the bridge of aiollis, and the
Alps from the Sentis to the Bernese Oberland. Consult Keller's Panorama
at the inn. From Wald (p. 47; in '/< hr. from Ruti by rail), and from
Hinweil (see above; small carriage to the top 7fr.), good paths lead to
the summit in 11/2 hr.
Beyond a tunnel the train descends , chiefly through wood.
Near Jona (Schliissel), a pretty village almost adjoining Rappers-
wyl, we descry the Alps of Schwyz to the S., and farther on, the
Miirtschenstock, Schjiniserberg, Speer, and Sentis on the left.
27 M. Rapperswyl, see p. 40. The station on the lake, near
the steamboat-pier, is a terminus , from which the train backs out
to Coire. WEESEN. 14. Route. 43
on its departure. (Branch-line to Pfdffikon, see p. 41). Views
to the right as far as Weesen. The line crosses the Jona, pass-
es the nunnery of Wurmspach on the right, and returns to the
bank of the lake near BoUingen (p. 41). In front of us towers
the Miirtschenstock, above the wooded hills on the lake, and to the
right of it are the Fronalpstock and the Schild near Glarus.
34 M. Schmerikon, see p. 41. We now enter a broad valley
traversed by the Linth (see below), which falls into the lake here.
To the right, on the N.E. spur of the Vntere Buchberg (1975'),
stands the ancient Schloss Orynau, with a frowning square tower.
36 M. TItziiachri378'; *Ochs; Falke), a manufacturing village,
lies on a hill to the left , surmounted by the church. (Diligence
to Wattwyl in the Toggenburg 4 times daily in 21/4 hrs., p. 58.)
To the left, on the hill, the monastery oi Sion (2317'). 361/2 M.
Kaltbrunn-Benken. The wooded range on the right is the Obere
Buchberg (2020').
A carriage-road leads from the station of Kaltbrunn-Benken or Utznacli
to (3 M.) Rieden (2360'; Inn <£• Kurhaus znm RiissH, moderate), a beautifully
situated health-resort, commanding charming views. Attractive excursions
may be made thence to the top of the Speer (p. 44), in 31/2 hrs. ; via Alj)
Breitenau to (2 hra.) Ebnat- Kappel (p. 58); etc.
Near (397.2 M.) Schanis (1450'; *Hirsch; Lowe), another in-
dustrial place , the ancient frontier of Rhsetia, several sharp skir-
mishes took place between the French and the Austrians in 1799.
We now approach the lAnth Canal, constructed in 1807-22 by
Konrad Escher of Ziirich, connecting the Lake of Ziirlch with the
Walensee, and, in conjunction with the Escher Canal, draining a
once dismal and swampy region. The canal runs parallel with the
railway at the foot of the Schdniser Berg (5470') ; to the right a
striking view of the Valley of Glarus with its snow-mountains.
On the opposite bank of the Linth Canal is the Linth-
Colonie, originally a colony of poor people who kept the bed of
the river clear before the canal was made, and now an agricultural
institution. 4272 M. Ziegelbriicke (Hotel Berger) is the junction
of the Glarus line, which soon diverges to the right (p. 59). The
Weesen line passes through a cutting and rounds the Biberlikopf
(p. 44) , the extreme spur of the Schaniser Berg. To the right
tower the Wiggis and the Glarnisch (pp. 60, 66). The station of
Weesen is 72 M. from the Walensee.
4572M. Weesen — Hotels. Hotel Speer, at the station, V4M. from
the lake, R., L., & A. 23/i, B. l\u S. 2V4, pens. 5-6 fr. ; Schwert, prettily
situated on the lake, R. 2, pens. 6 f r. ; Hotel JIariahaldek, higher up on
the slope, with fine view, pens. 6-7 fr. ; *Rossr,i, pens. 4-472 fr. Various
less pretending inns in the '/"/#", the quarter of the village extending along
the lake, with numerous gardens. — "Rail. Restaurant. — English Church
Service in summer.
Weesen (1410'), a favourite summer-resort, lies in a sheltered
situation at the W. end of the Walensee. The Klosterberg yields
good wine.
KxouRsioNs. Shady paths ascend from the Fly and the Hotel Maria-
44 lioute 14. WALENSEE. From Zilrieh
halden to the (20 MinO Kap/enhevj, which affords a charming survey. —
Pleasant walk (from tlie station 3/4 hr., or from stat. Ziegelbriicke 20 min.)
to the top of the Biberlikopf (1896'); fine view of the Walensee and
of the Linththal up to Netstall and down to the Bnchberg. — A very
attractive excursion may he made by boat across the lake to (3/4 hr.) the
hamlet of Betlis, prettily situated beside the ruin of Strahlegg at the foot
of the Leistkamm. Fine view of Jliihlehorn, the Miirtschenstock, etc.
From Betlis, we may walk to the ruined Serenmiihle and the Falls of the
Serenbach (see below), or we may ascend to (1 hr.) Amden.
A new road with line views of the lake, but destitute of shade, ascends
from Weesen to (tV4 hr.) Amden or Ammon (2874'; Ilirsch}, loftily situated
on sunny pastures. Most beautiful view at a small chapel to the right
of the road, 3/4 hr. from Weesen. — From Amden to the top of the
Leistkamm (6890'), S'/a hrs., with guide (Thoma of Amden), interesting and
not difficult. — From Amden to Slarkenbach or Stei?i in the Toggenburg
(p. 59), over the Amdener Berg (5056'), a route of 5 hrs., with beautiful
views, but fatiguing on account of the stone pavement.
The *Speer (6417'), an admirable point of view, 41/2-5 hrs. (guide unne-
cessary for experts). At the church we turn to the left, and ascend for
the first V2 hr. over rough pavement of conglomerate (pleasant retrospects
of the lake). Then a steep ascent through woods and meadows; 2 hrs.
Untere Biitz-Alp (3563'); ^4 hr. Unler-Kasern Alp (4337'); 1 hr. Ober-Kaseni
Alp (5404'; 'Inn Zum Hohen Speer). Thence to the top a steep ascent of
^,'4 hr. more. Beautiful view, especially of E. and N.E. Switzerland. From
A'bnat or JVesslau (p. 58) the Speer is easily ascended in 3'/2-4 hrs.
The *Walen8ee, or Lake of Walenstadt (1394'), 91/4 M. long,
11/4 M. wide, and 495' deep, is hardly inferior to the Lake of
Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. banli consists of
almost perpendicular precipices, 2000' to 3000' high, ahove whicli
rise the barren peaks of the seven Curfirsten (Leistkamm 0890',
Selun 7240', Frumsel 7434', Brisi 7477', Zustoll 7336', Scheiben-
stoll 7556', and Hinterruck 7523'). The hamlet of Quinten alone has
found a site on the N. bank. On the S. bank also the rocks, pierced
by nine tunnels, are very precipitous at places. At the mouths of the
small torrents which descend from the Miirtschenstock (8012'), lie
several villages. The names of the hamlets, Primsch, 6unz, Terzen,
Quarten, Quinten, and that of the lake itself, indicate that the in-
habitants are of Rhstian or Latin, and not Germanic origin.
Beyond Weesen we cross the Linth Canal by an iron bridge (the
Glarus line, diverging to the right, see R. 19), traverse the broad
valley, cross the Escher Canal (p. 60) near its influx into the
Walensee, and pass through two tunnels with apertures in the side
next the lake. Beyond them we observe the Bayerbach waterfall
on the opposite bank, and the village of Amden (see above) on the
hill above ; then the falls of the Serenbach, which are copious after
rain, but sometimes disappear in summer. Three more tunnels,
between which we obtain pleasant glimpes of the lake and the
waterfalls and precipices opposite. 50 M. T/LvLhlehom (Tellsplatte ;
*Seegarten, on the lake; Muhle, all unpretending). To the right
rises the bald Miirtschenstock (p. 45).
From Mijulehobn to Mollis (8V2 M.), an interesting walk. The road
leads over the Kerenzen-Berg , by the favourite summer-resorts (2'/2 M.)
Obstalden (2237'; 'Hirsch, with shady garden, pens. 51/2 fr. ; 'Stern) and
(l'/4 M.) Filzbwh (2336'; Rtissli), a village near the highest part of the
route, whence the Miirtsclienstock (p. 45) may be ascended via the Meerenulp
to Coire. MURG. U. Route. 45
in 6 hrs., with guide. (By the Plaltenalp to Glarus, see p. 61.) From a
rock on the right, ahout Vi M. farther on. we enjoy an admirahle *View
of the Walensee, the Seezthal Mts., the valley of the Linth Canal, bounded
on the left by the Hirzli (5387'), and the valleys of Glarus with the Wiggi.s
and Glarnisch. Much of our route now passes through wood. Xear (3 M.)
Beglingen we get a glimpse of the snow-fields of the Todi, and then descend
in windings (avoided by short-cuts) to (1 M.) Mollis (p. 60). — A fine new
road (recommended to pedestrians) leads from Miihlehorn via {^\a M.) Tiefen-
icinkel (brewery) and (II/2 M.) Murg to (2 M.) Unterlerzen and (3V2 M.)
Walenstadt.
Two more tunnels (to the left, Quinten , see p. 44).
51 M. Murg (*Schiffli, *Rossli, pens, at both 4 fr. ; Kreuz , all
rustic), charmingly situated at the mouth of the Murgthal.
A visit to the Murgthal, a valley 10 M. long, is recommended (guide
unnecessary). The path ascends rapidly, past the Rossli, as far as (20 min.)
a 'Waterfall below a bridge, which we do not cross (or we may cross
the bridge and return to Murg by the pleasant path on the other side). In
20 min. more we reach another bridge, and cross it. After a steep ascent
of 3/4 hr. on the left bank the path returns to the Murg and crosses it by
a third bridge at the ('/2 hr.) beginning of the Merlenalp (3640'). It then
ascends a pleasant valley, through meadows and wood, to the (21/2 hrs.)
three Murgseen (5488', 5955', and 5980'). From the highest lake the -Roth-
thor (8248') may be ascended in 2 hrs. (guide desirable •, the fisherman
or a herdsman); striking view (W. the Glarnisch. S.W. the Todi, S.E. the
Calanda, E. the Scesaplana, aS'^. the Sentis and Curflrsten, K.W. the hill-
country of Zurich). — From the highest lake a fatiguing path crosses the
"Widerstein-Furkel (6607') to the deep Muhlehachthal and (2^2 hrs.) Engi
in the Sernfthal (p. 67); another (guide required) leads over the Murgsee-
Furkel (6568') to the Miirtschenalp (6060'), past the Murtschenstock and
Fronalpslock, to the Heuhoden-Alp (p. 61), and (5 hrs.) Giants. — Ascent
of the Miirtschenstock (8012') laborious, fit for experts only, with a guide;
magnificent view.
Beyond Murg another tunnel ; above, to the right, the village of
Quarten (1762') with a new church. 53'/2M- Vnterterzen(Freieck;
Zur Blumenau). On the steep rocks of the opposite bank several
waterfalls are visible ; to the right , the village of Mols. Then a
tunnel and a bridge across the Seez Canal.
56 M. Walenstadt (1394'; Hotel Churfirsten , at the station,
R. & A. 21/.2 fr. ; *Hirsch, in the village, moderate) lies '/oM. from
the E. end of the lake.
ExcuKSioN (with guide) from Walenstadt by a steep path through
wood to the (2 hrs.) Alp Losis; then, nearly level, to the Alp Biils and (3/4 hr.)
the Tschingeln-Alp (5040' ; milk) ; follow the slopes of the Curflrsten to the
(l>/4 hr.) Alp Schicaldis (4774') and return by Alp Schriiien (4206') to (I'/i hr.)
Walenstadt ; or proceed from Alp Schwaldis to the Sdls-Alp (4662'), descend
by the Stafeli to the (1 hr.) Lauhegg Alp (^504') and thence by a steep
path, but free from danger, to (IV2 hr.) Qiiinfen (p. 45), whence the lake is
crossed by boat to Murg. — To Amden via the Leistkamm. 10 hra. with
guide, very attractive (comp. p. 44). — To Wildhaus in the Toggenburg
(p. 59) a rough path, with splendid views, crosses the Kcisernick (7435';
6 hrs. ; guide necessary).
We now ascend the broad valley of the Seez. On a rock to the
right, the ruins of Graplang (Romanic Crap Long), or Langenstein ;
to the left, on a rocky height above Bdrschis, the pilgrimage-church
oi St. Georgen. 58 M. Flums [iilb' ; Hotel Bahnhof; Lowe). Near
(64 M.) Mels (1687'; Melserhof, at the station; Frohsinn) the Seez
descends from the Weisstaimen-Thal, a valley to the S.W.
46 Route 15. WINTERTIIUR.
The 'Alvier (7753'), an admirable point of view, may be ascended
hence in 5 hrs. (guide unnecessary for adepts). The path ascends steeply from
the station to the right to the (2'/2 hrs.) Alp Pal/ries (4850'; Kurhaus, plain),
traverses steep and rocky slopes, and (2 hrs.) reaches the summit through
a narrow cleft by steps cut in the rock (Club-hut, room for 30 pers.).
The magnificent view embraces the Rhine Valley, the Rhsetikon, and the
Vorarlberg, Appenzell, and Glarus Mts. (good panorama by Simon). Good
paths ascend from Flums, Sevelen, Buchs, and Triibbach (comp. p. 340).
From Mels to Vattis, through the Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser Thai
(10-11 hrs.). Road to (8 JI.) Weisstannen (3270'; Alpenhof; Gamsli). Thence
(with guide), by Unter-Lavtina (4289') and the Alp Val Tiisch (6043'), in
4 hrs. to the Heidel Pass (7306'), between the Seezberg and the Ueidelspilz
(8619'), where we have a fine view of the huge Sardona Glacier, the
•Trinserhorn, and Ringelspitz. Descent into the Kalfeuser Thai, to the
Tamina bridge near Si. Martin (4433') 2 hrs., and to Vdtlis (p. 344) 2 hrs.
more. — From Weisstannen to Elm by the Foo or Ramin Pass, see p. 68.
At (65 M.) Sargans (1590'; *H6tel Thoma, at the station-,
Rail. Restaurant ; Krone, Lowe, in the town) we reach the Rhine
Valley and the Rorschach and Coire line. The little town, 3/4 M.
to the N.W., rebuilt since a lire in 1811, lies picturesquely at the
foot of the Gonzen (p. 340), and is commanded by an old castle.
Railway from Sargans via Ragatz to (79 M.) Coire, see R. 88.
15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen.
Comp. Maps, i>p. 38, 24, 28.
Railway to Romanshorn (51 M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 35 c).
Steamboat thence to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. (1 m. 20 or 80 pf.) ; to Lin-
dau in l'/2 hr. (2 m. 25 or 1 m. 50 pf. ; see p. 27).
The train crosses the Sihl, ascends in a wide curve, crosses
the Limmat, and passes under the Kdferherg by a tunnel 1020 yds.
long. 3 M. Oerlikon (1443' ; Rail. Restaurant).
F'rom Oerlikon to Dielsdorf, 12 M., railway in 35 minutes. Stations
Glattbrugg, Rilmlang, and (S'/z M.) Oberglatt, the junction for Niederglall
and (41/oM.) Biilach (see p. 47). Then (IOV2M.) NiedevhasU and (12 M.) Diels-
dorf (1410'; Sonne; Post), the terminus of the line, 11/2 M. below the pret-
tily situated old town of Regensberg (2024'; "Krone), on the E. spur of the
Ldgerngebirge (p. 19). Fine view from the tower of the old castle (now
an institution for boys of weak intellect); still more extensive from the
Hochwachl (2828'), 1 hr. farther on.
The line crosses the Glatt. At (6 M.) Wallisellen (Linde) the
Rapperswyl line diverges to the right (see p. 42). Fine view of
the Glarus Alps. 71/9 M. Dietlikon; IO1/2 M. Effretikon (branch-
line to Wetzikon and Hinweil, p. 42); 13 M. Kemptthal. Near
Winterthur the 2'dss is crossed. On a hill to the left, the ruins of
Hoch- Widflinyen (1962').
16 M. Winterthur (1447'; pop. 15,788; *Goldn€r Lowe, R.&A.
2'/2) D- 3V2 fr.; *Krone; *Adler; *Rail. Restaurant), on the Eulach,
is an industrial and wealthy town and an important railway-junction.
The new *Stadthaus was designed by Semper. The large School (with
statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi, and Sulzer) contains the
town-library and a few small Roman antiquities found near Ober-
Winterthur (Vitodurum, p. 31). In the Kunsthalle are some good
Swiss paintings. The environs yield excellent wine.
FRAUENFELD. 15. Route. 47
Fkom Wintekthur to Waldshut, 32 M., railway in 2 hrs. The
line traverses the Tossthal. Stat. Toss, Wiilflingen, Pfungen-Neftenhach,
Emhrach- Rovhas. The train leaves the Toss and passes through a
tunnel (1980 yds.). lO'/-.' M- Biilach (1374'; Kopf; Kreuz}, a small town
near the Glatt, once fortified (branch-line to Oberglatt and Otelfingen,
p. 19). The line runs through the Hardwald to the N. to Glattfelden and
(13i;'2 BI.) Eglisau; the latter (Liiwe; Hirsch) with its castle lies on the
right bank of the Rhine. We now follow the left bank of the Rhine and
cross the Glatt. Stat. Zweidlen; 19 M. Weiach-Kaiserstuhl , an old town
with a massive tower; on the right bank Schloss Riiteln, and farther on,
the ruins of Weiss- Wasserstelz. Stat. Riimikon, Reckingen, Zurzach, and
(30 M.) Koblenz, where the Rhine is crossed to (32 M.) Walds/nit (p. 28).
From Winterthur to Ruti, 29V2M., in 2-3 hrs., by the Tossthalbahn.
Stations Griize and Seen. Near (5 M.) Sennliof (lb min. to the S.W. of which
is the old chateau of Kyburg, commanding a fine view) we enter the pretty
Tossthal. Stations Kollbrunn, Rikon, Zell, (10 M.) Turbenthal (Bar), Wyla
(with a picturesquely situated church), Saland, (16 M.) Bauma (Tanne),
all thriving industrial places. About 2V4 M. to the E. of Zell, on the slope
of the Schaiienbtrg. is the frequented Gi/renbad, with an alkaline spring (see
p. 48). Then Steg, Fischenlhal, Gibsioyl-Ried. From the last, situated on
the watershed , the Bachtel may be ascended in 1 hr. Then through the
picturesque valley of the Jona to (25 M.) Wald (Lowe; Riissli), at the S.E.
foot of the Bachtel (p. 42). Passing the waterfall of Eohe Lauf, we join
the Ziirich and Rapperswyl line (p. 42) at (29V2 M.) Riiti,
From Winterthur to Scliaffhausen , see R. 12; to St. Gallen and Ror-
schach, see R. 16; to Constance, see R. 11.
The Romanshorn line traverses tlie green and fertile Thurgau.
20 M. Wiesendangen ; 24 M. Islikon.
26 M. Frauenfeld (1340'; pop. 5800; *Falke; *H6td Bahn-
hof) , on the Murg , with large cotton-factories, is the capital of
the Thurgau. The handsome Schloss on an ivy-clad rock is said to
have been built by a Count of Kyburg in the 11th century.
From Frauenfeld to Wtl, 11 M., steam-tramway in l-l'/i hr. (fares
1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 30 c ). Stations : Mtirkarl, Mazingen, Jakobsthal, Wdngi, Miinch-
tveilen, and Wyl (p. 4^^).
29 M. Felben. Near (321/2 M. ) MuUheim the train crosses the
Thur. SbM. Mar stetten; 37^/2 M.Weinfelden[iiQ3''). To the left
Schloss Weinfelden (1850'; view), on the vine -clad Ottenberg.
391/2 M. Burglen; 41 M. -Suiyen (1584'; Helvetia; Schweizerhof).
From Sulgen to Gossau, M'/j M., railway in 67 min. (1 fr. 65, 1 fr.
15 c.). The line traverses the pretty valley of the Thur. Stations Kra-
dolf, Sitterthal. 6 M. Bischofzell (1653'; Linde; Schtcert}, a small town at
the confluence of the Thur and Sitter; then Haupticeil, Arnegg, Gossau
(see p. 48).
Stations Erlen , Amriswyl, and (51 M.) Romanshorn (1322';
*H6tel Bodan; Falke; Jdger ; *Rail. Restaurant), on a promontory
on the Lake of Constance. Station on the quay (p. 30). The lake
and Friedrichshafen, see p. 27.
16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and
Lindau.
Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 52, 28.
Railwat to St. Gallen (52I/2M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 80, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 40 c);
to Rorschach (62 M.) in 33/4 hrs (10 fr. 20, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 10 c). Steamboat
from Rorschach to Lindau in V/t hr. (1 m. 65 or Im. lOpf.).
From Ziirich to (16 M.) Winterthur, see p. 46. The St. Gallen
48 Route 16. FLAWYL. From Zurich
railway is unattractive. The Curflrsten gradually appear to the S.,
and the Appenzell Mts. to the S.E.
2OV2 M. Rdterschen; 24 M. ELgg (2012'; Ochs; Lciwe). To
the S. (4 M.) is the Schauenberg (2930'; fine viewl, on the S.W.
slope of which lies the Gyrenbad (-p. 47). Stations ^arfor/"( Linde),
Eschlikon, Sirnach. — 341/2 M. Wyl (1936'; Hotel Bahnhof), a small
and pleasant old town (3474 inhali.); line view from the station of
the Appenzell and Glarus Alps. Branch-line to Ebnat, see p. 58;
steam-tramway to Frauenfeld, p. 47.
The train crosses the Thur by an iron bridge, near the old
castle of Sehwarzenbach. 391/2 M. Utzwyl, the station for Nieder-
Utzwyl on the left, and Ober - Vtzwyl on the right. (Near the
former, I3/4 M. from the station. Is the hydropathic Kurhaus of
BuchenthaL) 43 M. Flawyl (2020'; *Edssli; Post), a large manu-
facturing village. The Glatt is crossed. 46 M. Gossau (Hot. Bahn-
hof; branch-line to /Sutjren, see p. 47). — 481/2 M. Winkeln (Krenz).
From Winkeln to Appenzell, 16 M., in IV2 hr., by the narrow-gauge
Appenzell Railway. The line passes the Heinrichsbad (*Kurhaus, with chaly-
beate spring, wh«y-cure, etc.). 3 M. Herisau (2550'; 11,090 inhab. ; "Lowe,
R. 2V2, D. 3, pens, 7-8 fr. ; StorcK), a thriving town with extensive muslin-
factories and a clock-tower attributed to the 7th century. 51/2 3I. Waldstalt
(2700'; Hirsch; Pens. Sentisblick), with a chalybeate spring and whey-cure.
"Then through the Urnasch Valley, by Ziifchersmiihle, to (9V4 M) Urnasch
(2746'; "Krone; Schafle). About 1/2 M. above Urnasch is the primitive spa
of liosenhiigel (2892'). Beyond Urnasch the train passes the (U'/s M.)
Jacobsbad (to the E.), with its mineral spring (good quarters) and goes on
via (13 M.)' Gonlen (2970'; Bar) and (14 M.) Gonlenbad (2925'), a well-managed
whey-cure establishment, with a chalybeate spring, to (16 M.) Appenzell
(p. 54). — Ascent of the Senlis from Urnasch, see p. 57. Over the Krdzern
Pass to Neu St. Johann, see p. 58.
"We now cross the deep valley of the Sitter by an imposing iron
*Bridge, 207 yds. long, and 174' above the river. A little lower
down is the Krdzernbrilcke , with its two stone arches, built in
1810. — 50 M. Bruggen.
t/l'^l^. M. St. Gallen. — Hotels. *Hecht, U., L., & A. 4-6, D., incl.
wine, 3'/2fr.; *H6t. Stiegek, R., L., & A. 3 fr. ; *Hirsch, R. & A. 21/2, p.
3 fr. ; "Walhall.^, opposite the station ; "Schiff, Ochs. moderate. — Cafes.
Caf4-Reftanraut Borse, Pavilion, Triscfili, all three with gardens; Ca/^.
National; Walhalla, see above. — Baths of all kinds at the Lochlibad
and at the ^ Paradies\ — Havannah Cigars at Beckys, Bahnhof-Str. 10. —
Embroidery at A. Naefs. — United States Consul, Wm. H. Robertson, Esq.
St. Gallen or St. Gall (2165'), one of the highest-lying of the
larger towns of Europe, the capital of the canton of that name, and
since 1846 an episcopal see, is one of the chief Industrial towns
in Switzerland, embroidered cotton goods being its staple product.
Pop. 27,420.
The Benedictine Aiusey, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Gal-
lus, an Irish monk, and suppressed in 1805, was one of the most
famous seats of learning in Europe from the 8th to the 10th cen-
tury. The extensive buildings now accommodate the Cantonal
offices , the Koman Catholic technical school , the bishop's resi-
dence, and the Library. The last (open on Mon., Wed., and Sat., 9-12
to Lindau. ST. GALLEN. 16. Route. 49
and 2-4') contains many valuable MSS. (a psalter of Notker Labco
of the 10th cent, and a Nibelungenlied of the 13th cent."); of those
mentioned In a catalogue of the year 823 about 400 still exist.
The Abbey Church, rebuilt in 1755 in the rococo style, contains
finely carved choir-stalls and a beautiful iron choir-screen. The
Gothic Church of St. Lawrence (Fiot.^, to the N. of the abbey-church,
has been restored (1850-54) and embellished with a handsome tower,
and stained glass by Gsell of Paris.
The large School House in the Vordere Briihl contains the Town
Library (^ Vadianische Bibliothek' ; open Tues., Thurs., and Sat.,
2-4), which boasts of valuable MSS., chiefly of the Reformation
period. Near it, in the Museums-Str., by the Grosse Briihl, is the
Museum, containing the municipal collections. On the ground-floor
are extensive Natural History Collections (open Sun., 10-12 and
1-3, Wed. and Frid., 1-3), and on the first floor the Picture Gallery
of the Kunstverein (works by KoUer, Diday, Makart, A. Feuerbach,
Ritz, Schirmer, and others), and the collections of the Historical
Society (open Sun., 10-12 and 1-3, Wed., 1-4 ; at other times, for
1-4 pers., 50c.). The E. wing is devoted to the Industrial and
Trade jl/Msewm (open Sun., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10-2 and 2-4).
Behind the museum is the Public Park; farther on, in the Rorsch-
acher-Strasse , are the Town Hospital, to the right, and the Can-
tonal Hospital, to the left. To the W. , in the Arboner-Strasse, on
the left bank of the Steinach, is the large Cantonal Prison. The
Industrial Museum, with a school of design, is in the Vadian-Strasse.
Excursions. Tlie *Freudenberg C~^'Oi': Inn; carriage with one horse
5 fr.), I'/o JI. to the S.E., commands a charming view of the Lake of
Constance as far as Lindau; in the foreground lie St. Gallen and the
surrounding country, dotted with houses, to the S. the Sentis chain, the
Glarnisch, Todi, etc. — The ' Vogelisegg (4i/2 M. ; p. 54) and the 'Frolichs-
egg (4 M. ; p. 57) also afford fine views. — From the Kurzegg inn on
the road to Vogelisegg a fine view of the Bodensee. Near it, the nunnery of
Nolkersegg (2567'). — To the Rosenberg (2445') with the Kurzenbiirg, a
deaf-and-dumb institution (view to the S.W.) ; walk along the hill to the
('/4 hr.) inn of SS. Peter and Paul (2628'; view). — Across the pastures to
the Beraegg (2757'; Inn), with view of the Sentis, and back by the Teufen
road (2 M.). — Eronbiihl (203.3'; Inn), on the Arbon road, with a view of
the Lake of Constance. — Waid, a health-resort, 3 M. to the N.E., with
splendid view of the lake of Constance (diligence from St. Fiden, see below).
— Bruggen and the "Sitterbrucke (p. 48), by rail in 8 min. — Martinstobel
and Mottelischloss , see p. 50. — To Trogen , Gais, Appenzell , Weissbad
(R. 17), one-horse carr. there and back 13 fr., a pleasant day's excursion.
From St. Gallen the line descends through a long cutting to
(531/2 M.) St. Fiden (Sonne), and enters the wild valley of the
Steinach. Embankments and cuttings are traversed in rapid suc-
cession. Nearly the whole Lake of Constance is frequently visible,
with Friedrichshafen on its N. bank. — Turning to the right, the
line crosses the Goldach by a bridge of five arches near (5672 M.)
Morschwyl (*Pens. Gallusberg, near the station), and traverses a
fertile district to Rorschach. There are two stations at Rorschach.
the first 1/2 M. from the town, and the terminus at the harbour.
Baedekkb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 4
50 Route 16. RORSCHACH. From Zurich
6*2 M. Borschach. — -Ankeb, R., L., & A. 2'/2, B. 1 fr., pens. 7-8 fr. ;
'HiKSCH, moderate ; Bauuof; -Hotel Bodan ;SEEHor; Schiff; Hotel Bahn-
HOK, Post, R. 2, D. 2'/2 fr., these two near the station-, *Schafi,e, with
garden, moderate; Zuk Toggenbcrg; Rossle ; Zur Ilge; Gkdnee Badm ;
OcHS, with brewery. — 'Rail. Restaurant, with a balcony and view of
the lake. Beer at Stierlins, behind the station, and at the Falke (with
rooms to let). — Private apartments reasonable. — Baths at Poller's, on
the lake; 'Lake Bat/is "AM- *<> the W. (bath with towel 35c.).
Rorschach (1312'; pop. 5848), a busy town on the Lake of Con-
stance, chiefly important for its com trade, is also a summer-resort.
Railway to Coire, see p. 339 ; to Bregenz and Lindau, see p. 420 ; to
Seide/i, see p. 52; to Constance, see p. 30.
Excursions. Above Rorschach rises the old abbey of Marienherg, with
handsome cloisters, now a school. The view from the Rorschacher Berg,
the green orchard-like hill behind the town , embraces the whole lake,
with the Vorarlberg Mts. and the Rhfetikon chain. Its summit, the Robs-
biihel (Inn), may be reached in l'/4 hr. from Rorschach (boy to show the way
desirable). The whole hillside is intersected by roads, which atford a great
many pleasant walks. — The St. Anna Schloss, since 1449 the property ot
the Abbots of St. Gallen, has been partly restored ('Restaurant); fine view
from the upper rooms. The road, which is steep towards the end, takes
about 3/, hr. from the station. The view from the Jcigerhaus, '/s lir.
farther up, is still more extensive (Inn, good wine).
To the Martinstobel and Jlottelischloss and back, 3 hours. By the St.
Gallen railway to St. Fiden, see p. 49. Below the station we take the road
to Neudorf (brewery on the left), descend the high-road, and diverge to the
right by the Heiden road into the '^Martinstobel, the gorge of the GoldacU,
spanned by an iron bridge 1(X)' high. Here at the beginning of the 10th cent,
the monk Xotker composed his '■Media vita in morte sumus\ upon seeing
a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge we ascend the road to the
left, passing the debris of a landslip which took place in 1845, to Untereggen
(Schalle) , and thence descend the Goldach road as far as a road leading
through a grassy dale to the right to the Mottelischloss. This was for-
merly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg , of whom it was purchased by
the wealthy Mbtteli family of St. Gallen, and after various vicissitudes it has
now fallen into disrepair. 'View from the new platform on the top (gratuity),
one of the finest near the lake. Pleasant walk back to Rorschach through
the WitlwU 0/2 hr.). — ToTiibach, surrounded by fruit-trees, and the
Castle of Hteinach about 1 hr. — By the 'Obere Weg', with fine views,
to (1 hr.) Wylen ('/nra) , near the Duke of Parma's chateau of Warlegg,
with its beautiful park. — By Stood (p. 339) to (IV4 hr.) Schloss Weinburg,
the summer-residence of the Prince of Hohenzollern (visitors admitted to
the fine park); splendid view from the Steinerne Tisch, above the chateau
(return via Thai and Rheinegg, p. 339). — To Heiden, see p. 52.
To THE Meldegg. Railway to (V4 hr.) Rheinegg; then a good road
(diligence twice daily in 1 hr. 5 min. ; shorter footpath in 3/4 hr.) to (2'/2 M.)
Walzenhausen (2207'; "Kurhaus; "BSt.-Pens. Rheinburg, S^J^tr.), a summer
resort in a sheltered situation, with pleasant wood-walks and fine points
of view. Road thence to (IV2 31.) the monastery of Grimmenstein ; then a
path to the left to the (1/4 hr.) -Meldegg t2125'), a rocky height at the angle
of the Rhine Valley, affording an admirable survey of the valley and the
Bodensee. (Tavern in summer.) We may then descend to (2/4 hr.) St. Mar-
grethen (p. 339) or (V2 hr.) Au (p. 339) and return by train to Rorschach.
At Horn (on the lake, IV2 M. to the N.W.; railway, see p. 30) there are
a large Hotel <t Bath-house (pension 6 fr.), and the Steinbock Inn. Visitors
are also received at the Schloss, near the baths, to the left of the road.
To Linclau by steamer (IV4 hr), comp. p. 27. To the S.E. is
Bregenz, at the foot of the Pfander; in the background the Rhaeti-
kon chain; on the W. side of the Rhine Valley rise the Appenzell
Mts. and the Sentis.
to Lindau. LINDAU. 16. Route. 51
Lindau. — *Bavkischer Hop, R., L., & A. 2'/2-i, D. 3 m. ; *Kkone,
E. 11/2-2 m., B. 80pf-, D. 2m. 20pf. ; "Hotel Reutemann, *Lindauer Hof,
Helvetia, moderate, all on the lake; Sonne, in the Reichsplatz ; Gaetchen
AUF DER Mauee, a pension OH the mainland. — Schiitzengarten, a restaurant
on the old bastion, near the Roman tower, with view; adjacent to it,
Rupflin (wine); Inselbrauerei ; Rail. Restaurant. — Lake Baths on the N.W.
side of the town, in the inner arm of the lake.
Lindau, the terminus of the Bavarian vS.W. Railway (express
to Augsburg 5, to Munich 51/2 hrs.), once an imperial town and
fortress, and in the middle ages a thriving commercial place, lies
on an island in the Lake of Constance, connected with the main-
land by a railway-embankment and by a wooden bridge, 356 yds.
long. Lindau is said to have been the site of an ancient Roman
fort, to which the venerable tower near the bridge perhaps belong-
ed. On the quay is a monument to King Max II. (d. 1864), in
bronze, designed by Halbig. At the end of the S. pier, on a
granite pedestal 33' high, is placed an imposing lion in marble, 20'
in height, also by Halbig. The top of the Lighthouse on the N.
pier commands a line view (adm. 40 pf.). In the Reichsplatz are
the Rathhaus, with a painted fagade, and a handsome fountain with
a bronze figure of 'Lindauia' and allegorical figures of Horticul-
ture, Agriculture, Fishing, and Shipping, designed by Thiersch and
Riimann, was erected in 1884.
EscuBSioNs. Pleasant walk on the bank of the lake towards the W.
(cross the railway embankment and turn to the left), passing the villas
of Lotzbeck (pretty park) , Giebelbach , Lingg ("Frescoes by Naue) , and
others, to the (s/4 M.) Schachenbad (Pens. Freihof), and the (V4 BI.) Linden-
hof (or Villa Gruber), with its beautiful grounds and hot-houses (adm. on
Frid. gratis; at other times 1 m., tickets at the Schachenbad; closed on
Sun.). About '/a M. farther on is the chateau of Aliaind. — Beautiful view
from the ('/2 hr.) *Hoyerberg (1496'), which is reached by a path skirting
the railway, or by the road by Aeschach (Schlatter) to the village of Hoyren,
at the foot of the vine-clad hill. Two inns and a belvedere on the top.
We may then return by Enzisweiler (*Schmid's Restaurant) and Schachen
(Zum Schlossle). — To Bregenz, see p. 420.
17. The Canton of Appenzell.
The Canton of Appenzell cannot vie in grandeur with many other parts
of Switzerland, but it includes within a small space most of the charact-
eristics of the country. It boasts of Switzerland's largest lake, of an almost
southern vegetation, of great industrial prosperity, of the richest pastures,
and even of lofty snow-mountains. The finest points are Heiden, St. Antoni,
Wildkirchli, Ebenalp, the Hofie Kasten, and the Sentis. The new Appenzell
railway (p. 48) has greatly facilitated the access to the last.
This canton, which is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gallen, was
divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two half-cantons , Ausser-
Bhoden and Inner-Rhoden, and to this day party-feeling on religious ques-
tions is very strong. Inner-Rhoden , which consists of pasture-land and
is 63 sq. M. in area , is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, and down to
1818 permitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Roman Catho-
lics who were not natives of the canton were strictly excluded. This restric-
tion was nominally rescinded by an article of the Federal consitution in
1848, but little change has practically taken place. Population 12,868, of
whom abont550 only are Protestants. AussEE-RHODEN(90sq. M.,54,145inhab.,
3594 Rom. Cath.) belongs to the Reformed Church; one-fourth of its popula-
4*
52 Route 17. HEIDEN. The Canton
tion is engaged in the cottun and silk manufacture, chiefly for firms at St.
Gallen. No government ofticial receives a salary exceeding 200 fr. per annum.
The popular assembly ('Landsgemeinde'') is held on the last Sunday in April,
in even years at Trogen, in uneven at Hundwyl ; every male inhabitant of
Appenzell above the age of 18 is required to be present under a penalty of
10 fr. ; and about 12,000 persons assemble on the occasion.
The contrast between these two divisions of the canton in habits,
manners , and costume is very marked. Ausser-Rhoden is characterised
by the enterprising and prosperous condition of its inhabitants, many of
whom are even affluent. Almost every house has its loom , the products
of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill , and were objects of
admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. The rearing of
cattle is here quite a subordinate occupation. The inhabitants of Inner-
R/ioden, on the other hand, generally occupy scattered cottages and huts ;
they are , according to Merian (1650), 'a rough, hardy, homely, and pious
folk' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive, and cattle-breeding and
cheese-makitig are their chief pursuits.
Whey-cure Establishments in the Canton of Appenzell : Oais, Weissbad,
Jleiden, Ootiten, Waldstait, etc. The goats' whey is prepared on the pastures of
the Sentis ; the milk is heated, and the whey separated from it by the ad-
dition of rennet. The whey ('Schoiten^) thus prepared is of a yellowish-green
colour, semi-transparent, entirely free from caseine, but rich in saccharine
matter. The process takes place at night. Early in the morning the goat-
herds carry the hot whey on their backs to the different establishments be-
low. The whey-makers have about 500 goats on the Sentis, and even buy
goats' milk from other districts, to supply the hotel-keepers. After the sepa-
ration of the whey, the cheese is manufactured in the ordinary manner.
Railway from Winkeln to Appenzell in 1V2-2 hrs. ; from Rorschach to
Beiden in 55 minutes. — Diligence from Rheineck to Heiden twice daily in
13/4 hr. ; from Heiden to Trogen twice daily in I1/2 hr. ; from AUsidtten to
Gaii daily in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2 hrs. 40 min. ; from St. Gallen by
Teufen to Gais 3 times daily in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2^/4 hrs. — Carriage
from St. Gallen to Trogen 6 fr. (34 pers. 10 fr.), to Appenzell 9-16, Weiss-
bad IO-I6V2 fr. ; half-fare more for the return.
The Rail-v\'ay from Rorschach to Heiden, 4*/3 M. long , is
constructed on the rack - and - pinion system (maximum gradient
1 : 11). The train starts from the harbour station (p. 49), stops at
the outer station, where the toothed rail begins, and then ascends
through orchards and vineyards, affording charming glimpses of the
lake. On the left, below, is the picturesque chateau of Wartegg., on
the right Wartensee. "We then cross a ravine, pass through a cutting,
and traverse wood. Near (21/.2 M.) stat. Wienachten (1930') are
large quarries of fossiliferous sandstone. We cross the gorge of that
name by a lofty viaduct, obtaining to the left a beautiful view of
the rich valley, with the mountains of the Bregenzer Wald beyond,
and the mouth of the Rhine below ; then ascend through orchards
and wood, past a deep ravine on the left, to (3 M.) stat. Schwendi,
and skirt the wooded Galgentobel in a wide bend.
41/3 M. Heiden. — *Fkeihof, R., l., & A. 3-4, B. I'/a, pens. S'/z fr.,
whey 80 c.; ' Schweizeuiiop, R,. L., & A. 3'/2, B. 11/4, D. 3, S. 2 fr.; Son-
NENHiJGEL, at the upper end of the village, near the Kurhalle; "Lowe,
pens. 61/2 fr. ; Krone, pens. 6fr. ; Linde; *Zum Pabadies; Zur Frohen
AnssicHT, well spoken of. Lodgings at Tohler^s, the postmaster. Baths
in the Quelknhof. — Visitors' Tax for a stay of several days 1 fr. 20 c. —
English Church Service in summer.
Heiden (2465' ; pop. 3430), a thriving village with substantial
houses, rebuilt since a fire in 1838, lies in the midst of sunny and
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sheltered meadows, and is a favourite whey-cure resort. Mineral
water may also be procured. At the upper end of the village is a
tasteful Kurhalle. The gallery at the top of the tower of the new
church contains a good telescope , and affords a fine panoramic view,
including the Lake of Constance.
Walks. To tlie "Bellevue, a bill 20 min. to the S.E. , on the right
bank of the Gslaldenhach , with a beautiful view of Heiden and the
Lake of Constance, and in 10 min. more to the Sentishlick ; S.W. to the
Hasenbiihl . Benzenriili, and *Stei7iU, with a pavilion and charming view ;
S. to Bischofsberg (see below). To the W. , below the Grub road (see
below), the Krdhenwald (pleasant grounds) ; N.W. (^4 br.) the Rossbilhel
above Wienachten (see p. 50; tavern, good wine).
A road affording picturesque views leads from Heiden to the N.W.
via Wolfhalden (2322; Friedberg) to (3V2 M.) Rheinegg (p. 339; diligence
twice daily in ' 4 hr.) ; another attractive road to the W. via Grub, Eggevs-
ried, and "the Marlinstobel (p. 50) to (8 M.) St. Gallen (p. 48). To Rorschach
there are besides the railway a pleasant footpath and a carriage-road f4'/2 M.)
via Zelg and Wienachten.
The 'Chapel of St. Anthony i'-Sl. Antonibild'' ; 3635'; small restaurant
adjacent), IV4 hr. to the S. of Heiden, affords a famous view of the
Rhine Valley (preferable to that from the Kaien) , Bregenz, Lindau, part
of the Bodensee, and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. One route to the
chapel is by Oberegg; another, shorter, leads by the orphan-houses and
the Bischofsberg (see above). From the chapel to Altstdtfeit (p. 339) IV2 hi-.
The Kaien, I'/i hr. to the S.W. of Heiden, is also frequently ascended
(guide desirable, I'/a fr.). We at first follow the Trogen road ; after I'/i M.
we ascend to the right towards some houses, where a boy may be engaged
as a guide; 10 min., the path enters pine-wood (rather steep here), then
crosses an open meadow with a few chalets, and ascends the small peak of
the (Va hr.) ^Kaien (3668'). The view embraces a great part of the Lake of
Constance and Canton Thurgau , the embouchures of the Rhine and the
Bregenzer Ach, the Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein Mts., with the white chain
of the Rhsetikon and the Scesaplana above them to the S.E. To the S. it
affords a characteristic glimpse of the Appenzell district : the Kamor and
Hohe Hasten, the five peaks of the Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the double-
peaked Altmann , the snow-fields of the Sentis , and the Todi farther
distant; in the foreground woods, meadows, and the thriving villages of
Wald, Trogen, and Speicher; to the left above Trogen rises the Giibris
(p. 54) ; to the right, near Speicher, the Vogelisegg (p. 54) ; to the left, above
Speicher, in the distance, the Pilatus and the Rigi. — The Kaien is IV2 hr.
from Speicher, and 2V2 hrs. from St. Gall. Trogen seems almost within a
stone's-throw, though really 3 M. distant. The path descends to the right by
the Gup/ (Inn) and the Rehtobel ('Hirsch), beyond which the road to Trogen
is visible in the wooded ravine far below. Near the bridge, in the valley
below, is a rustic tavern 'Am Goldach\
The G&bris (see below) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding
the Kaien) : to St. Anthony^s Chapel (see above) IV4 hr. ; then along the crest
of the hill , with a charming survey of the Rhine Valley and the Sentis,
to the Landmark (Inn, comp. p. 340), and thence to the summit of the
Gdbris, a beautiful walk of 2 hrs.
The road from Heiden to Trogen (6'/.2 M.) ascends the E.
slope of the Kaien (see ahove) to (2iy'4 M.) Langenegg (3182'; Inn)
and then leads up and down hill, past Rehtobel (see above), situated
beyond the deep valley of the Goldach on the right, and (21/4 M.)
Wald (3150'; Sonne), to (2 M.) —
Trogen (2975'; pop. 2587; Hirsch ,■ *Krone'), the seat of
government of Canton Appenzell-Ausser-Rhoden, a prosperous vil-
lage, pleasantly situated and visited as a summer-resort.
54 Route 17. GAIS. The Canton
Road over the Landmark to (7 M.) AUstdUen, see p. 340. — From St.
Gallen to Trogen (6 JI.), diligence thrice daily in 1 hr. 40 min. The
road leads past the nunnery ni Notkersegg and the inn of Kurzegg (p. 49), to
the (4 M.) '-"Vogelisegg (1358'; " Hotel- Pension) , which affords a line view
of the Lake of Constance, the populous and rich pasture-lands of Speicher
and Trofien, and of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. A point a few
paces in front of the hotel commands a specially line prospect of the
Sentis. Descent to (Vi M.) iSpeiclier (3070'; Lowe; Krone) and across the
Bachtobel to (I'/i M.) Trogen.
From the church at Trogen a road leads by the pretty village
of Bilhler (2736'; *Rossli) to (5 M.) Gais , but the path over the
*Gabris (4100') is shorter and far more attractive.
The traveller coming from the Kaien follows the Trogen and Biihler
road to the (',2 hr.) top of the bill (3487' ; view of the Sentis) ; a finger-
post here indicates the path to the left to Gais over the Giibris. Those
who come from Vcigelisegg should not go on to Trogen, but quit the high-
road beyond the Bachtobel (see above) by a flight of steps to the right. A
small valley lies immediately on the right, and the path ascends gradually
across meadows. After 34 hr. (from Speicher) this path reaches the road
from Trogen to Biihler at a few hundred paces from the finger-post. About
5 min. beyond the latter we reach two houses. Where the ascent begins,
5 min. farther on, we keep to the left. Farther on, the road skirts a wood
(at the beginning of which the descent to the left is to be avoided). At the
point (12 min.) where a row of old pine-trees flanks the road on the right,
a footpath between two of these ascends, chiefly through wood, in 20 min.
to the summit. The point first attained is the Signalhiihe (4110'), the view
from which is much obstructed by wood. A few min. farther on is an ~Inn
(4100'), whence a charming prospect is enjoyed (reached from Speicher in
IV2 hr.). To Gais, which lies at our feet, a somewhat steep descent of
Vj hour. Walkers in the reverse direction will find finger-posts at doubtful
points. Xumerous benches.
Gais (3075'; pop. 2505; *Krone, R. & A. 21/2-3V2, B. IV4,
D. 3 fr., whey 80 c. per day; Ochs, Adler, Hirsch, Rothbach, etc.,
plain), a trim-looking village , in the midst of green meadows, is
the oldest of the Appenzell whey-resorts, having been in vogue
since 1749. Fine view of the Sentis from the Kurgarten.
Diligence to St. Gallen, see p. 57. — The Road from Gais to Alt-
STATTEN (6 M., diligence once daily in V/t hr., from Altstatten to Gais
in 13/4 hr.) is level for the first I'/a M., and then descends uninterruptedly
from the point where it diverges from the old road and winds round the
mountain. The old road, shorter for pedestrians, and far preferable on
account of the viev?, leads to the left over the (1/4 hr.) ' Stoss (3130' ; Pen-
sion S(oss), a chapel on the pass, with a celebrated view of the Rhine
Valley, the Vorarlberg, and the Grisons. Here, on 17th June, 1405, 400
Appenzellers under Rudolf von Werdenberg signally defeated 30()0 troops of
the Archduke Frederick and the Abbot of St. Gallen. The old road rejoins
the new immediately below the Stoss, but soon diverges again. The road
to the left, descending in zigzags, is the better; that to the right is steeper,
but shorter. — Those who intend proceeding from the Stoss to the Sentis
naay leave Gais and Appenzell to the right, and descend direct to the (2
hrs.) Weissbad, by the Bo/ie JJirschberg (3833'; fine panorama).
A road traversing meadows leads from Gais to (3 M.) Appenzell
(2550'; pop. 4466 ; *Lowe, *Hecht, both moderate ; beer at the Krone),
another whey -resort, the capital of Canton Inner -Rhoden, on the
Sitter, a large village consisting chiefly of old wooden houses. It
contains two monasteries, and was formerly a country-seat of the Ab-
bots of St. Gallen, Appenzell being a corruption of 'Abbatis felki'.
of Appemell. WEISSBAD. 77. Route. 55
The Hospital, the Church, erected in 1826, and the Landesarchiv
or record office, containing interesting charters, are worthy of note.
Shady promenades on the Sitter. — Railway to Urndsch and Win-
keln, see p. 48. Diligence to St. Gallen via Gais, see p. 57.
A road leads from Appenzell to the S.E., passing the Hotel Stein-
egg, to the (2M.) *Weissbad (2680'), another whey-cure and health
resort (R. & A. 2-4, B. 1, D. 21/2, S- IV2 fr., cheaper for a longer
stay ; also river-baths), pleasantly situated at the base of the Appen-
zell Mts., and a good starting-point for excursions.
Guides' Fees (J. A. Thong, Sitber, Jac. and Joh. Kosler): Wild-
kirchli 5, Ebenalp 5, Sentis 10, over the Sentis to Wildhaus 20, Altmann
12, Holie Kasten 6, over the latter into the Rhine Valley 10 fr. — Horse
to Wildkirchli 10, Ebenalp 12, Hohe Kasten 10, Kamor 9 fr. — Carriage
to St. Gallen and Altstatten with one horse 12, with two horses 25 fr.; to
Gais 8 or 14 fr. ; to Appenzell 3 or 6 fr.
From Weissbad to the Rhine Vallet. The direct route by the
HoHE Kasten (S'/z hrs.) leads to the S.E. through (1/2 hr.) Briilisau (3030';
Krone, rustic) ; by the church we follow the paved path , past the first
house , as far as a bam , and ascend the meadows (towards the inn
which lies conspicuously at the foot of the Kamor) as far as the last
group of houses, V2 hr. ; then straight on (not by the beaten path), through
the enclosure on the right, to the Inn '■Ruhsitz^ (4495'; '/•! hr., bridle-path
thus far), at the S.W. base of the Kamor (5215'). From the inn a steep
ascent of 1 hr. by a good path, to the summit of the 'Hohe Kasten (59(XJ';
*/nn), which slopes precipitously on theE. towards the Rhine Valley. Splendid
view of the Sentis group, with its three spurs on the N.E., which is nowhere
seen to such advantage; in the other direction we see the Rhine Valley,
stretching as far as the Lake of Constance, and the Alps of the Vorarlherg
and Grisons. We may now descend by a steep and stony path to (3 hrs.)
Stat. Sennwald-SaleU (p. 340). It diverges from the Weissbad path to the
left, just below the saddle between the Kamor and Hohe Kasten, skirts
the W. and S. slopes of the latter, and descends in zigzags (no possibility
of mistake ; several finger- posts lower down). Traversing wood for the
last hour, we at length reach the village of Sennwald and the station.
The favourite walk from the Weissbad is to the Wildkirchli,
13/4 hr. to the S. (guide 4 fr., unnecessary). Following the road
to Briilisau (see above) for 100 paces , we ascend to the right ;
8 min. , a house , whence the bridle-tracli diverges to the left,
while the good footpath leads straight on through a gate,
crossing the bridle-path at (20 min.), a double gate; we then
cross the meadow in the direction of the Ebenalp, or rather
towards the depression between it and the wooded Bommen-Alp
(to the left). A little below the top of the hill (40 min.) we
turn to the right. (In 5 min. more the direct patli to the Ebenalp
diverges to the right ; see below.) The path approaches the foot of
the precipitous rocks which descend from the Ebenalp to the Seealp-
Thal (see below). Near the ('/2hr.)*Zwmj4.esc/ie7" tavern we ascend to
the right by a narrow, but safe path, skirting the perpendicular rocks,
to the (5 min.) *Wildkirclili (4920^), formerly a hermitage, found-
ed in 1656, with a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, situated in a
grotto (33' wide; tavern). On the patron-saint's day (at the be-
ginning of July) and on St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) solemn
services are conducted here, and the grotto and the Ebenalp attract
56 Route 17. SENTIS. The Canton
nnmerous visitors. View of the deep Seealp-Thal (with the path to
the Sentis opposite, see below), and, to the left, of the Lake of
Constance, in the direction of Swabia and Bavaria.
A dark passage in the rock, 150 paces long, closed by a door
(opened by the landlord, who provides a light, '/2 fr.), leads from the
grotto to the ""Ebenalp, where an entirely new Alpine view is dis-
closed. The (25 min.) summit (5250'; Jnn, 6 beds) , commands
a superb view of the Sentis, Altmann, Lake of Constance, etc. —
We may descend direct to the (25 min.) Bommen-Alp (see above;
guide useful to the beginning of the distinct path).
Pleasant walk by Sc/twende, leaving the Sentis route (see below) to the
left, to the (13/4 hr.J Seealp-See (3747'), very picturesquely situated in a
basin between the Ologgeren and AUenalp (see p. 57). — A new path
leads from the Aescher tavern (p. 55) to the Seealp-See in 3/4 hr.
To the Leuerfall, IV2 hr. , also interesting; the path diverges to the
right from that to the Wildkirchli after 20 min. and ascends the Weiss-
bacht/ial, the last part through beautiful wood.
The snow-clad *Sentis (8215'), the highest mountain in the
canton, is most conveniently ascended from the "Weissbad (6 hrs. ;
guide iO fr. ; one-horse carr. to Wasserauer 4 fr.). A road di-
verges to the right from the road to Briilisau beyond the (3 min.)
bridge over the Schwendebach, and ascends on the right bank of the
brook to ( 1/4 hr.) *Sc/it«ende (2840'; *Inn Zur Felsenburg, on the
left bank), and to the (35 min.) Wasserauer Inn, where the road
ceases. The ascent now commences (KatzensteigJ, following the
telegraph stakes, on the left side of a ravine through which a brook
is precipitated; (40 min.) chalets of the Hiittenalp (milk). The
narrow , but well - defined path now skirts the Schrinnen , the
shelving pastures of the Gloggeren (below which are perpen-
dicular rocks), affording beautiful glimpses of the Seealp-See far
below, the Sentis and Altmann, and the Wildkirchli to the right.
In 3/4 hr. we pass a refuge-hut , and in 3/^ hr. more we reach the
Meglisalp {WoT \ small rustic inn), in a picturesque basin. The
path ascends hence rather steeply on the left side of the valley and
skirts the base of the Rossmaad , being frequently hewn in steps
(the telegraph stakes commencing 10 min. from the Meglisalp may
be followed). After 2 hrs. the inn on the Sentis becomes visible.
In early summer the snow generally begins here , on which we as-
cend to the inn (steep towards the end) in another hour. Later
in the season the path leaves the snow on the left, gradually becom-
ing steeper and crossing large masses of rock, and also reaches
the inn in an hour. The Inn (beds at 3-5 fr., mattress in the attics
l'/2fr.; often crowded on Sat. and Sun.; telegraph office) is 5 min.
from the summit of the Sbntis or Hohb Mbsmbr , to which we
finally mount by a path protected by a railing.
The **ViEW (see Helm's excellent Panorama) extends over N.E. and
E. Switzerland, embracing the Lake of Constance, Swabia and Bavaria,
the Tyrolese Mts., the Grisons, and the Alps of Glarus and Bern. — The
N. peak, separated from the S. by the ^Blaue Sc/mee^ (not to be tried with-
out a guide; see p. 57) is named the Qyrenspitz or Oeierspitz (7766')-
ofAppenzell. TEUFEN. 17. Route. 57
From the Sentis we may descend, at firs over snow, and then by a
path which is very steep at first, over the Schafboden and the Fliess-
Alp to (31/2-4 hrs. ; in the reverse direction 6 hrs.) Wildhaus or Unter-
wasser in the Toggenburg (p. 58 ; guide desirable). — The usual route
FROM THE Weissbad TO WiLDHAUS (7V'2-8 hrs) Icads by Briilisau and
through the BriiUobel to the Samblis-See (3965'), passes the Fdhlen-See
(4772'; chalets), and ascends to the summit of the pass {Zwingli Pass, about
6560'), between the Altmanii (see below) on the right, and the Krayulp-
first ((3953') and Roslenfirst (6832") on the left. We descend by the Kray-
Alp (5933'), and the Teselalp (4560') to Wildhaus. This route, however, is
rough, and the Sentis route (not much longer) is preferable.
Mountaineers may combine a visit to the Wildkiichli (p. 55) with
the ascent of the Sentis (guide necessary, 15 fr.) by leaving the valley
of the Seealp-See to the left. The path leads high above the Seealp-
See at the base of the Zdnsler and Schdfler across the AUen-Alp , the
Oehrli , and over the Muschelfels (numerous fossils) ; hence either to the
left across the valley to the Wagenlucke by the path which ascends from
Weissbad (see above), or (1 hr. shorter) across the Blaue Sclmee (caution
on account of the crevasses) past the base of the Gyrenspitz , and over
the Flatten direct to the summit (7-8 hrs. in all). — A path, constructed by
the S. A. C, ascends to the summit on the W. side also (6 hr?., with guide).
It starts from the Gemeinen- Wesen Alp (4210' ; reached from Urnasch or
Nesslau in 2 hrs.), ascends over stony slopes, and mounts a steep rocky
slope in zigzags to the first mountain-terrace. The ascent is then more
gradual, over rock and pasture, to the Fliesbordkamm and the (2'/2hrs.)
Clvb Hut on the Thiericeid (7150'). We next traverse rocks and debris,
leaving the 'Blaue Schnee' on the right (see p. 56), and ascend in steep
zigzags to the arete between the Gyrenspitz and the Sentis. Lastly we
mount the Platlen by a flight of steps 140 yds. long, protected by a wire
railing, and reach the (IV2 hr.) summit.
The Altmann (7986'; 7 hrs. with guide; toilsome), is ascended from
the Weissbad via the Fahlenalp tin A Zwi7igU Pass (see ahove); descent through
the Lochlibetler to the Meglisalp (p. 56).
Railway from Appenzell to Winkeln, via Urnasch and Herisau,
see p. 48. — If time permit, however, the picturesque Road via.
Tetjfen to St. Gallen (12 M. ; diligence thrice daily in 2 hrs.
25 min.) is preferable. It runs by (3 M.) Gais (p. 54), and
along the Rothbach, separating Appenzell-Ausser-Rhoden from Ap-
penzell-Inner-Rhoden, to [1 V2M.} Biihler (p. 54) and (2M.) Teufen
(2743'; pop. 4740; *Hecht; *Lmde), a wealthy industrial village,
picturesquely situated, with a fine view of the Sentis chain ; and
thence through meadows and woods to (6 M.) St. Oallen.
A Path from Appenzell to Teufen, a slightly shorter route, crosses the
Sitter near Mettlen, and descends the valley of the Sitter, high on its right
bank , by Steig, Lank, and JJaslen. It leads thence to the N.E., over the
hill, and through several woods, descends into the valley of the Rothbach,
crosses the brook, and ascends to Teufen.
The Footpath from Teufen to St. Gallen (i'/2 hr.) diverges from
the high-road near the 'Hecht' inn, and immediately ascends to (','4 hr.)
the Schdfle's-Egg (3020'; tavern) ; it then descends to (^ '4 hr.) St. Georgen,
where it joins the high-road to (i'/2 31.) St. Gallen. — About 10 min. to
the W. of the Schafle's-Egg is the -Frolichsegg (3290'; "Inn), which com-
mands an admirable view. Teufen in the foreground, the green Alpine
valley sprinkled with dwellings, and the Appenzell Mts., beginning with
the Fahnern, on the left, the Kamor, the Hohe Kasten about the middle of
the chain, the green Ebenalp below the snow, more to the right the
Altmann and the Sentis with its snow-fields, then in the distance the
Glarnisch and Speer; to the W. the railway and road to Wyl, and to
the N., part of the Lake of Constance. Hence to St. Gallen, 3 M.
18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs
in the Rhine Valley.
Comp. Maj), p. 52.
Railway from Wyl to Ebnat., IS'/z M., in 1 hr. 5 min. (1 fr. 95, 1 fr.
40 c. ; 2ncl and 3rd cl. only). — From Ebnat to Bucks., 24 M., diligence
twice daily in 51/4 hrs. (5 fr. 20 c.); also several times daily to Nesslau in
1 hr., and to Alt St. Johann in 2^/3 hrs. — Carriage with one horse from
Wildhaus to Gams 8 fr. (carriages in Gams to he had at the 'Kreuz' inn) ;
to Buchs 9 fr. ; to Ebnat., 14 fr.
Wyl, on the Winterthur and St. Gallen line, see p. 48. The train
traverses the Togc/enburg, the busy and populous valley of the Thur.
When the Counts of Toggenburg became extinct (1436) , the County
was purchased by the Abbots of St. Gallen, who at the same time secured
to the inhabitants their ancient rights and privileges. In the course of
centuries, however, a great part of the population having embraced
Protestantism, the abbots violated their contract, which resulted in their
expulsion at the beginning of the 18th century. This gave rise to the
Toggeithurg War., a violent feud in which the Roman Catholic cantons
espoused the cause of St. Gallen , while the Protestants took the part of
the Toggenburgers. No fewer than 150,000 men were thus gradually
brought into the field. In July, 1712, the Roman Catholics were at length
defeated at Villmergen in the Aargau ; and a general peace was concluded,
which secured to the Toggenburgers full enjoyment of all their ancient
liberties, though they were still to belong to the Canton of St. Gallen.
41/0 M. Batzenheid ; opposite is Jonswyl, with a new church. Op-
posite (6 M.) Lutishurg we cross the Guggerloch by a viaduct 170 yds.
long, and 190' high. Stations Biltschwyl, Dietfurt, and (IO72 M.)
Lichtensteig (pop. 1477; * Krone), a pleasant town on a rocky
height, with a modern Gothic church. On a hill to the E. (li/4hr.)
is the ruin of Neu-Toggenburg (3566'), a fine point of view.
121/2 M. Wattwyl (2027'; Ross; *Toggenburg), a charming
village, with 5252 inhab. and a new church. (Diligence to Utz-
nach, 4 times daily in 1^/4 hr., see p. 43.) On a hill to the right is
the nunnery of St. Maria der Engeln, and above it the ruin of
Yberg. The last station is (1572 M.) Ebnat-Kappel. The village of
Ebnat (2106'; *Kronei Sonne; Rosenbuhl, a restaurant with view)
is a thriving place ; 1 M. to the N. W. is Kappel (Traube; Stern).
The 'Speer (6417'; not difficult for experts) may be ascended through
the Steinthal in 5 hrs. (finger-posts; comp. p. 44); Or from Neu St. Johann,
or from Nesslau (see below), by the Alp im Laad and the Herren-Alp in
6 hrs. (guide 7 fr.).
The High Road , commanding a view of the Curflrsten op-
posite, and, near Neu St. Johann, of the Sentis on the left, ascends
slightly on the right bank of the Thur, to Krummenau (2386'),
where the 'Sprung', a natural rock-bridge, crosses the stream, Neu St.
Johann (Schafle), with an old Benedictine abbey, and (41/2 M.) —
20 M. Nesslau (2470'; *Krone; Traube; Stern), with a pretty
church .
To Urnasch over the Krazern Pass (4'/2 hrs.), a fine route. A road
ascends from Neu St. Johann through the Lavterthal, via Ennetbilhl and
the Riedbad or Ennetbiihler-Bad, to the (I'/a hr.) Alp Bernhalden (3402') ; a
path to the left then ascends through the Krdzernwald to the Krazern
Pass (3936'), and crosses the pastures of Krazern to the. {'2 hrs.) Ross/all- Alp
WILDHAUS. 18. Route. 59
finn), whence a road leads to (1 hr.) Urndsch (p. 48). — Ascent of the
Sentis (p. 56) from Nesslau, 6 hrs. : from Bernhalden in V4 hr. to i'ii& Alp
Gemeinen-Wesen (4210'}; new path thence to the (4 hrs.) top (p. 57). —
Ascent of the Speer, see p. 58.
The scenery becomes bleaker. The road leads past a fine fall of
the Weisse Thur to (21/4M.) Stem (Krone) and (2V4M.) Starkenbach
(Drei Eidgenossen) , a straggling village. To the right the ruin
of Starkenstein. (Route over the Amdener Berg to Weesen , see
p. 44; guide as far as the pass advisable.) Passing (1 1/2 M.) .4Jt
St. Johann (2920'; *R6ssli) and (3/4 M.) Vnterwasser (Stern;
Traube), prettily situated at the sources of the Thur, we ascend to
(33/4 M.) -
301/2 M. WUdhaus (3600'; *Hirsch; Sonne). A little before
entering the village , we pass on the right the wooden house,
blackened with age, in which Zwingli was born on 1st Jan., 1484.
Wildhaus belonged to Rhaetia tUl 1310, and the region of the Ro-
mansch language (p. 345) extended to this point. Behind the vill-
age, which lies at the foot of the Schafberg (7820'), we obtain a fine
survey of the seven peaks of the Curflrsten (p. 44); or still better
from the (8/4 hr.) Som?nerJfcop/" (4317').
Ascent of the Sentis from Wildhans or Alt St. Johann (via the Fliess-
Alp and the Schafboden in 6 hrs. ; guide ; toilsome), see p. 57. — To Weiss-
bad by the Krayalp., the Fdhlensee, and Sdmbtis-See (7 hrs.), see p. 57. — To
Walenstadt over the Kdserruck, 6 hra., see p. 45.
The road descends, finally describing a long bend, to (6 M.)
Gams (1575'; *Kreuz), in the Rhine Valley, and then leads straight
to (1 V2 ^0 Haag (p. 340), while a road to the right leads via Grabs
and Werdenberg to (31/2 M.) —
391/2 M. Bucks (p. 340).
19. From Zurich to Glarus and Liuththal.
53 M. Railway ( Nordosthahn) to Glarus (43 31.) in 2'/^ hrs. (7 fr. 20,
5fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c.); from Glarus to Linththal (10 M.) in 40-50 min. (1 fr.
60c., Ifr. 15c., 80 c.). (From Weesen to Glarus, 7V'j M-, in 25 min. ; 1 fr,
25c., 90c., 65 c.). Carriages are usually changed at Glarus.
Railway on the left bank from Ziirich to (36 M.) Ziegelbriicke,
see pp. 42, 43. The train again crosses the Linth Canal (p. 42) and
traverses the broad valley towards the S. ; on the right the Wiggis
and Glarnisch (see p. 60). 37 M. Nieder- and Ober-Vrnen; 39 M.
Ndfels-MoUis, junction for (I1/4 M.) Weesen (p. 43).
Nafels (1434' ; Linthhof; Hirsch; Schwert) and Ober-Urnen are
the only Roman Catholic villages in Canton Glarus. The church is
the finest in the canton. The restored Freuler Palace, now a poor-
house, contains some exquisite panelling. On 9th April, 1388, the
canton here shook off the Austrian yoke. In the Rautifelder, where
eleven attacks took place, stand eleven memorial stones (monument
in the Siindlen). On the second Thursday of April the natives flock
to Nafels to celelirate the anniversary. — On the opposite bank of
60 Route 19. GLARUS. From Ziirkh
the Escher Canal lies Mollis (1470'; *Bar, *Ldwe, l)Oth moderate),
an industrial village. (Over the Kerenzenberg to Muhlekorn, see f.M.)
Excursions (guide, if. Hauser). The Rautispitz (7493'), the summit
of the Wiggis Chain (sec below), rising abruptly to the S.W., is ascended
from Nafels in S'/aO hrs. (interesting; no difficulty; guide 18 fr.). On the
right bank of the IlaiitWac/i, with its numerous fulls, we ascend in zigzags,
cross the Thriingibach^ and reach a road through wood. Passing above the
(1 hr.) Nkdersee or HasUnsee (2460'), we reach the {^/^ hr.) charmint; Obersee
(3225'), skirt the lake to the left, and ascend through wood to the Grappli-
Alp (4730') and (2 hrs.) RauH-Alp (5400'), and in l'/? hr. more to the sum-
mit, which slopes gradually on the W. side (beautiful view). — An arete
of rock 1 hr. long, traversed by a path whicb should not be attempted by
those subject to dizziness, connects the Rautispitz with the Scheye (7420'),
the second highest peak of the Wiggis. The Scheye may also be ascended
from Vorauen (p. 66) by the Langenegg-Alp (4V2 hrs.), or from the KliJn-
thalersee (p. 60) by the Iterberig and the Detjenalp (4 hrs.), or from Netstall
by the Auern-Alp (5 hrs.).
41 M. Netstall (St. Fridolin; Bar; Robe; Schwert), a large vil-
lage (pop. 2400), lies at the E. base of the Wiggis. The Lontsch,
descending from the KLonthal (p. 66), falls into the Linth here.
43 M. Glarus. — *Glarnek Hof, at the station, R., L., &A. 4, B. IV2,
D. 4 fr. ; -Raben, opposite the post-office, R. &- A. 3'/2, B. 1, C incl. wine
3 fr. ; 'DitEi EiDGENOssEN, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Lowe ; Sonne ; Adlee ;
beer at the Cafi Tobias, opposite the station, at the Eaben, etc. ; 'Restau-
rant on the Bergli (1883'), 20 min. to the W. of the town, an admirable
point of view.
Glarus (1490' ; pop. 5357), Fr. Claris, the capital of the canton,
with busy industries, lies at the N.E. base of the precipitous and
imposing Vorder-Gldrnisch (7648'), at the W. base of the Schild
(7503'), and at the S.E. base of the Wiggis (see above), the barren,
grey summits of which form a striking contrast to the fresh green on
its slopes. The Hausstock (10,355') forms the background to theS.;
to the left the KdrpfstockldiSO''), to the right the fiuc/ti (10, 190').
In 1861 , during a violent 'Fohn' (S. wind), the greater part of
the town was burned down. The new Romanesque church is used
by the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in common. In 1506-
12 the reformer Zwingli was pastor at the old church, on the site of
"which the law-courts now stand. The two grassy spaces in front
represent the old cemetery. The Law Courts contain the Can-
tonal Archives , the public Library , and collections of antiquities
and natural curiosities (fine fossils). In the Government ^- Postal
Buildings is an excellent relief-model of the canton of Glarus by
"Becker (adm. free). In the art department is a small Picture
Gallery, containing chiefly works by Swiss artists. The Public
Gardens, in front of the Glarner Hof, are embellished with a hand-
some fountain, and contain memorial stones to the statesmen J.Heer
(d. 1879) and J. J. Blumcr (d. 1876), both natives of Glarus. — On
the opposite bank of the Linth lies the busy manufacturing village
of Ennenda (Hotel Neues Bad).
Excursions (guides, see p. 62). The Schild (7500') is a fine point (51/2
hrs.; guide 12 fr.). The path from Glarus leads through wood and pastures,
and over the ICnnetberge, to the (3 hrs.) Ileuboden-Alp (4770') and thence
to the right, without difficulty, to the top in 2V2 hrs. more. Admirable
f.S-^/^* Ob.ytn/Kl '"*■"'''''* pni^«"' A,
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to Linththal. SCHWANDEN. 19. Route. 61
view of the Miirtschenstock, Todi, and Glarnisch. — The Fronalpstock
(6982'; similar view) is easily ascended by the Ennetberge and the Fronalp
in 5 hrs. — To the Mukgthal from the Heuboden-Alp, by the Miirtscfien-
Alp {Oberstafel , f063'), see p. 45 (to the Merlen-Alp direct, 2 hrs.; over
the Murgseefurkel to the Murgseen, 2'/2 hrs.)- — To Filzbach (8 hrs.;
guide unnecessary for good walkers), a line route: we cross the Fronalp
(Mittlere 5193', Obere 6039'), pass between the Fronalpstock and Fahristock
to the (5 hrs.) Spannegg (5108'), skirt the little Spannegg-See (4757'; with
the Miirtschenstock on our right, p. 44). and descend over the Platten-Alp to
the Thalalp-See (3610') and (3 hrs.) Filzhach (p. 44). — The Vorder- Glarnisch
(7648'), from Glarus 51/2-6 hrs. (guide 13 fr.), see p. 66.
The 'KIbnthal (p. 66) deserves a visit. Good road to the KlOnthaUr
See 4V2 M., to Vorauen 4V2 M. more (one-horse carr. in I'/z hr., there and
back 15, two-horse carr. 20-25 fr.).
From Glarus over the Pragel to Schicyz, see E. 2i ; through the Sernf-
thal to Coire, see R. 22.
The railway to Linththal crosses the Linth six times. 44 M.
Ennenda (p. 60). Near (451/2 M.) Mitlodi (1665'; Hirsch), and again
beyond it, we obtain a stiperb view of the Todi and its neighbours,
which are not visible beyond Schwanden. On the right bank lies
Ennetlinth. The scenery is picturesque, the fertile valley with its
factories contrasting pleasantly with the rocky and wooded slopes
and the snow-mountains at its head. Pedestrians, who will also
find this valley attractive, follow the right bank of the Linth, via
Ennenda^ Ennetlinth, Soot, and Hasten, to Hdtzingen (see below).
47 M. Schwanden (1712'; Rail. Restaurant). The village {*Adler,
pens. 5-6 fr.), with its large factories, lies at the junction of the
Sernf- Thai or Klein-Thai with the Linth-Thal or Gross-Thai.
Diligence to Elm, see p. 67. — To the Oberblegi-See (4680'), a pleasant
excursion, by Nidfitrn, in 3 hrs. ; fine view of the Linththal and Todi.
We may also ascend by the charmingly situated villages of Than and
Schwandi to the (31/2 hrs.) Guppen-Alp (bbiO'), go on past the small Gnppen-
Seelt and the Leuggelstock (5673') to the (1 hr.) Oberblegisee, and return by
Kidfurn.
The train crosses the Linth below the influx of the Sernf and
passes through the village of Schwanden. Beyond (48 M.) Nidfurn-
Haslen is Leuggelbach, with a fine waterfall on the right. 50 M.
Luchsingen-Hatzingen, two well-to-do villages, one on each bank
of the Linth. We cross the stream to (51 M.) Betschwanden-Dies-
bach (1958'J; on the left, a beautiful fall of the Diesbach.
The Saasberg (6467'), a spur of the Freiberg Range, easily ascended
from Betschwanden, Riiti, or Stachelberg in 31/4-4 hrs., commands a strik-
ing view of the head of the valley and the surrounding mountains. —
Ascent of the Karpfatock {Hochkarpf, 9177'), the highest of the Freiberge,
laborious, and suitable for experts only (with guide ; 7-8 hrs. from Betsch-
wanden or Riiti, via Bodmen-Alp and Kiihthal).
Beyond stat. Riiti we cross the Linth for the last time. 53 M.
Linththal, the terminus, lies on the left bank. About 1/4 M. to the
N. are the favourite *Baths of Stachelberg (2178'; *6lamers
Hotel, R., L., & A. 31/2-4, D. 31/9, S. 2V.2fr., B. 1 fr. 40 c., pens.
61/.2 fr. , R. extra , visitors' tax 1 fr. per week ; de'pendance at
the 'Seggen', on the right bank), beautifully situated. The power-
ful sulphureous alkaline water drops from a cleft in the Braunwald-
berg, II/.2 M. distant. The *View of the head of the valley is very
62 lioute 19. STACHELBERG. From Zurich
striking : in the centre is the Selbsan/t (9920') , to the right the
Kammerstock (6975'), and adjoining it part of the Todi to the left;
between the latter and the Bifertenstock (11,240') lies the Biferten
Glacier. Pleasant walks have heen laid out on the wooded hillside.
— English Church Service at the hotel in summer.
A road leads from the station to (8/4 M.) Linththal (2238'; pop.
2232; Bar or Post; Robe; Klausen, all moderate), a considerable
village on the right bank of the Liiith, with large spinning-mills
and other factories. On the opposite bank lies Ennetlinth (p. 04).
ExcL'KSioNS. Stachelberg is a good starting-point for exploring the
Todi region. (Guides; Ileinrich and Peter Elmer of Elm, Salomon and
Adam ZiDei/el, Heinrich Schiesser, Rob. Hamig, Thorn. Wichser, Jakob Nolz,
and Friedrich Vogeli of Linththal ; Fritz Brander, Heinrich Streiff, and
Abraham Stiissi, ofGlarus. High charges.) To the "Fatschbach- Fall (p. 64) ;
"Panle/ibriicke, -Ueli-Alp, and Sandalp, see below; also to the (l'/2 hr.)
" Braunwaldbergen (4920'; small inn), a mountain hamlet with a magni-
ficent view of the Todi, best from beside the school, li/.; M. farther on;
to the Oberblegi - See fp. 61), etc. — The Kammerstock (6975'), by the
Kammer-Alp, 4 hrs. , repaying, and not difiicult. — The Ortstock, or
Silberstock (8908'), by the Alp Brdch and the Furkel, 6 hrs. ^ laborious;
splendid view (guide 18 fr.)- — The Grieset, or Faulen (8940'), by the
Braunwaldberye, 6 hrs., attractive, and not difficult (guide 18 fr.). The
Bose Faulen (9200') , the N. and higher peak of the Grieset, is difiicult
(672-7 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). These peaks afford an interesting survey of
the stony wilderness around. Other fine points are the iymmfw^ioci (8440';
G hrs.) and the Kirchberg (Hoher Thurm; 8761'; 7 hrs., with guide). From
Faulen via the Dreckloch-Alp (55G0') to the Gldrnisch-JJiitte (p. 66), 472 hrs.
— The Gemsfayrenstock (9758'), from the Upper Sandalp (see p. 63), by the
Beckenen and the Clarideii Glacier in 3V2 hrs. , not difficult. The descent
may be made by the Qemsfayeralp to the Urner-Boden (p. 64).
A road leads from Linththal (one-horse carr. from Stachelberg
8 fr. for 1/2 day, two-horse 12 fr. ; whole day 12 or 20 fr.) by the
Aumgiiter to the (8V2 M.) Thierfehd (2680'; * Curanstalt ^^ Hotel
Todi , peiis.5-G fr.), a green pasture surrounded by lofty mountains.
During the latter part of the route we have a view of the *Schreien-
bach Waterfall (230' high), which the morning sun tints with rain-
bow hues. Beautiful view from the *Kdnz€li, ^/i M. from the inn.
The beautiful Falls of tlie Linth, in a romantic rocky basin below the
Pantenbriicke (see below), are best viewed from a point reached by turn-
ing to the left at the Kiinzcli through wood and ascending the grassy
slope for about ^jihr. (guide necessary).
A few paces beyond the Hotel a bridge crosses the Linth, beyond
which the stony path ascends for '/2 hour. A slab on a large rock on
the left is to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished on the
Griinhorn in 1866. The path then descends a little towards the rav-
ine, turns a corner, and reaches (1/4 hr.) the *Pantenbrucke (3212'),
160' above the Linth, in the midst of imposing scenery. On the
right bank, a path ascends the grassy slope straight to the ('/4 hr.)
*Ueli-Alp (3612'), where we enjoy a superb view of the Tiidi.
Thence we may either return by the same road to the Hotel Todi; or
we may ascend to the right to the (I74 hr.) lower Baumgarten-Alp (5285'),
which lies on the right bank of the valley above the Thierfehd and presents
a magnificent view, and descend liy a narrow and dizzy path (guide necess-
ary) skirting the precipice of the Triit, turning to the left, 5min. lieyond the
Baumgarten-AIp, to Obort (3425'; ''Inn, plain), and thence either to the left
Hinilermatt'y
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Wao^a- A i>ebes, Leip»i^
to Linththal. • TODI. W. Route. G3
back to 0/2 lir.) Thierfehd, or to the right via the Auengtiter to (1 hv.)
Linththal. — A steep path leads to the E. from the Baumgarten-Alp along
precipitous grassy slopes to (IV4 hr.) the rocks of the Thvr (6755'), where
it becomes easier and bends to the right to (1 hr.) the Niischenalp (7270'),
thence skirting the A[uttcnwandli to (IV4 hr.) the club-hut on the romanti-
cally situated Muttensee (80lU')> the loftiest lake among the Swiss Alps.
The hut, which has accommodation for 20 persons, is the starting-point
for the ascents of the Niischenstock (9500'), Riichi (9355'), SchHdstock (9220'),
Ruchi (10,190'), Hausslock (10,340'), Muttenstock (10,140'), Piz Darlgas (9135'),
Bifertenstock (11.240'), Selbsunfl (9940'), and other peaks. Via the Kisten
Pass to lUmz, see below.
The '^Upper Sandalp (6358'), 3V2hrs. above the Pantenbriicke, is frequently
viiited on account of its grand situation. The path ascends beyond the
Pantenbriicke to the right {that in a straight direction leads to the Uelialp,
see above), crosses the Litnmern- Badi, which descends from a narrow ravine,
and the Sand-Bach, and ascends on the left bank to the (1 hr.) Vorde7'e
Sandalp (4100'; refreshm.). The path now returns fo the right bank. By
the Hintere Sandalp (4330') it crosses the Biferten-Bach, and then ascends the
steep and fatiguing slope of the Ochsenblanken , 2000' in height, where the
Sandbach forms a fine cascade. La.stly we recross to the left bank, where
the brook forces its passage through a gorge, and soon reach the (2 hrs.)
chalets of the Upper Sandalp (Alpine fare and hay-beds in July and August).
The best point of view is '/2 hr. beyond the chalets.
The Linthal is terminated by a magnificent group of snow-mountains.
The giant of this group is the *T6di, or Piz Rusein (11,887'; from Linththal
10-11 hrs.; only fit for experts; guide 40 fr. ; two guides required for one
traveller, or one guide for two travellers), with its brilliant snowy crest,
the most conspicuous mountain of N.E. Switzerland, ascended for the first
time in 1837. The route is from the Hintere Sandalp to the (S'/o hrs.)
Griinhorn Hut (8082'; spend night), and thence up the Bi/erien-Firn to the
summit, difficult at places, in 4-5 hrs. more. Magnificent view. We may
descend by the Porta da Spescha, between the Piz Mellen (11,085') and
Stockgron (11,215'), to the Val Rusein and (6 hrs.) Disentis (p. 362; guide
50 fr.) ; or by the Gliemsp/orte (10,925'), between the Stockgron and the
Piz Urlaun to the Gliems Glacier; then through a gap to the E. of the
Puntaiglas Glacier and down the Val Puntaiglas to Truns (comp. p. 361).
— The Bifertenstock or Piz Surgin (11,240'), the highest peak but one of
the Todi group, may be ascended from the Muttensee Club-hut (see above)
via the Kisten Pass (see below) and ihe^Furggle^ in 6-7 hrs. (difficult; for
adepts only ; guide 40 fr.).
Passes. From the Upper Sandalp a fatiguing route crosses the Sand-
firn and the Sandalp Pass (9210') to Disentis in 6-7 hrs. (guide 30 fr.);
another , fatiguing but interesting , crosses (8 hrs.) the Clakiden Pass
(9843') to the Maderaner Thai (p. 114, guide 36 fr.).
From Linththal ovee the Kisten Pass to Ilanz, 13 hrs. (guide 30 fr.),
fatiguing. Ascent by the (3 hrs.) Baumgarten-Alp to the Muttensee Club-
hut (see above). Thence via the Muttenalp, the Latienfrn, and the Kisten-
band, high above the Limmernthal and opposite the Selbsanft and Bifer-
tenstock (with the Gries and Limmern glaciers), to the (1 hr.) Kisten Pass
(8200'J, lying to the N. of the Kistenstijckli (9020'). Descent by the Alp Rubi
to (3 hrs.) Brigels and thence to the left to (21/2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 359), or to
the right via Schlans to (2 hrs.) Truns (p 361).
From Stachelberg by the Bisithal to Muotathal, see p. 65.
20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Elausen.
Comp. Maps, pp. 60, 76.
10 hrs. Bridle-path to I'nterschachen : from Stachelberg to Spitelriiti
3'/4, Klausen 2, Aelpli Aesch IV4, Unterschachen 1, Altdorf (diligence every
forenoon in l'/2 hr.) 7 M.; guide (18 fr.) unnecessary; horse to Unter-
schiichen 27, to AUdorf 32 fr.
64 Route 20. KLADSEN PASS.
Leaving Stachelberg, we follow the left bank of the Linlh, pass
EnnetUnth, cross the (I/2 l^r.) Frutbach (small waterfall), and ascend
to the right through wood; 5 min. farther on (where the path divides,
we follow the lower) we pass a fine *Waterfall of the Fdtschbach,
which descends from the Irner Boden. (In order to view the fall we
turn to the right, fifteen paces before reaching the little bridge, and
ascend for 200 paces by a narrow path on the left bank. We then
return almost to the beginning of the path, and ascend the Frutberg,
on which we regain the bridle-path in 5 min.) The path ascends
rapidly through wood for 1 hr. (to the left a new path to the beautiful
Upper Fdtschbach FaUs), then for the next 40 min. more gradually.
A wall and gate form the boundary between Glarus and Uri at the
point where the Scheidbdchli (4290') descends from the right.
The XJrner Boden (21/4 hrs. from Stachelberg), a broad grassy
and at places marshy valley, with a few groups of chalets, about 4M.
long and 1/2 M. broad, now begins. It is bounded on the N. by the
jagged ridge of the Jdgernstocke anAMdrenberge, culminating in the
Ortstock (8908') , and on the S. by the glaciers and snow-fields of
the Clariden (10,728'). About 1/2^^. from the frontier of Glarus we
pass the Alpine tavern Zur Sonne, and then (25 min.) the chalets of
Spitelriiti, with a chapel on a hill (4560'),
The path traverses the pasture for ^/2^"[- more, and then ascends
a stony slope, passing (8/4 hr.) an excellent spring to the left, to the
(1/4 hr.) Klausen-Alp and the Ch^^O Klausen Pass (6437'). On the
W. side we descend the gentle slopes of the beautifully situated
Bodmer Alp (to the left, the Orosse Scheerhorn, 10,815'). After
1/2 tr., where the path divides, we turn to the left to the (5 min.)
chalets of the Lower Balm (5600') and cross the brook to a rocky
cleft, forming the approach to the Balmwand, which here descends
precipitously to the Schachenthal. The stony path descends in zig-
zags to the 0/2 br-) Aelpli ('little Alp') Aesch (4173'; *H6t. Stdubi,
rustic). To the left, the discharge of the Gries Glacier, on the N.
side of the Scheerhorn, forms the magnificent *Stduber Waterfall.
We now descend the wooded Schachenthal, on the left bank of
the turbulent Schdchenbach. On the right bank (35 min.) the Chapel
of St. Anna ; 10 min., we cross the stream ; 74 hr., ITnterschacheu
(3345'; *Hdlel Klausen, moderate ; carr. to Altdorf 10 fr.), finely sit-
uated near the mouth of the Brunni-Thal, through which peeps the
GrosseRuchen{iO,2db'^ with its glaciers. (Over the Ruchkehlen Pass
to the Maderaner Thai, see p. 114.) To the N. rises the Schdchen-
thaler Windy dlle (9052'), and farther W. the Kinzig Pass (p. 65),
the scene of Suvoroff's celebrated retreat.
A road descends the pretty valley, by Spiringen, where a disastrous
landslip from the Spitzen (8050'), situated on the S., occurred in
June 1887, Weiterschwanden, and Trudelingen, to (5 M.) a stone
bridge over the Schachenbach,and thence to (1 M.) Bilrglen (p. 102)
and Altdorf (see p. 101).
65
21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel.
C'oinp. Maps, pp. 76', 60.
Il hrs. Diligence from Schwyz to (8 M.) Muotathal twice daily in
11/2 hr. ; carriage with one horse 9 , with two horses 14 fr. From Muota-
thal over the Pragel to (4'/4 hrs.) Richisau , a bridle-path , unattractive ;
guide advisable, especially early and late in the season when the pass is
covered with snow (18 fr. ; Jos. Gwerder or Xav. Hediger of Muotathal).
Kg inn between Muotathal and Richisau. The pass being uninteresting, it
is preferable to visit the Muotathal , as far as the Suvoroff bridge , from
Schwyz or Brunnen, and the Klonthal from Glarus (see p. 61).
Schwyz, see p. 100. The road ascends to the S. through or-
chards and meadows (view of the Lake of Lucerne to the right), and
in a wooded ravine at the foot of the Oiebel (3010') reaches the Muota,
which flows through a deep rocky channeL Opposite, to the right,
is Ober-Schonenbuch, upon which the French were driven back by
Suvoroff in 1799. Farther up the Muota ravine (2^/2 M.), but not
visible from the road, is the Suvoroff Bridge, which was contested
by the Russians and the French for two days. (At a sharp bend
in. the road, 2^/2 M. from Schwyz, a road descends to the right to
this bridge in 3min.; we may then return to Schwyz through wood
and pastures on the left bank, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. in all.).
Beyond (21/2 M.) Ried (1855'; Adler) , on the left, is the pretty
fall of the Ostubtbach , at first descending perpendicularly , and
then gliding over the rock. At (1 M.) Follmis (1900') we cross the
Muota and pass the Mettelbachfallin iheKesseltobel. Then(2M.) — ■
8M. Muotathal (1995'; pop. 2021; *Kreuz; *Hirsch, moderate;
Krone), the capital of the valley, with the Franciscan, Nunnery of St.
Joseph, founded in 1280, in which Suvoroff had his headquarters
in 1799. Fine rock scenery and waterfalls in the vicinity.
Over the Kinzig Pass to Altorf, 8 hrs., fatiguing (guide unnecessary
for adepts). After following the Pragel route for 1/4 lir., we diverge by
the Muota Dridge to the right, and ascend the Huri-Thal, passing the cha-
lets of Lipplisbiild and Wiingi, to the (S'/a hrs.) Kinzig Pass {Kinzigkulm;
6790'), lying to the S.E. of the Faiileii (SISCC). A height 1/4 hr. to the S.
commands a striking "View of the Bernese Alps and of the Scheerhorn
and Clariden to the S.E. Then a rapid descent to the Sclidchenthal (p. 64),
Weiterschwanden, and Bur-glen (p. 1()2). The Kinzig Pass is famous for the
masterly retreat of Suvoroff, who, when cut off from the Lake of Lucerne
by the French in Sept. 1799, marched with his army throughthe Schachen-
thal to the Muotathal , thence over the Pragel to Glarus , and lastly over
the Panixer Pass to Coire.
Theough the Bisithal to Stachelbeeg, 10 hrs., rough but attractive;
guide necessary. Good path (at first a road) through the Bisithal, water-
ed by the Muota, to (2'/2 hrs.) Sckwarzenbach (3153'); steep ascent thence
to the left to the (3 hrs.) Alp Melchberg (6293'); then across the dreary
Karrenalp between the Kirchberg and Faulen (p. 62), and down the Braun-
waldalp to (4-5 hrs.) Stachelbeyg. Another route is from Schwarzenbach
across the Bcirensool and Geitenherg Alps to the Rohbiitzli-Alp and the
Karrenalp. Or from Schwarzenbach we may go farther up the Muota,
and then ascend to the right over the Waldi-Alp and Ruos-Alp to the
(4 hrs.) Ruosalper Kiilm (7125'), descend to X^i^ Kasem-Alp, turn to the left,
and reach the (IV4 hr.) Balmalp on the Klausen route (see p. 64).
To SisiKoN THROUGH THE RiEMENSTALDENTHAL and across the Katztti-
zagel (4888'), a footpath, 7 hrs. (unattractive).
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 5
66 Route 21. KLONTHAL.
From Muotathal the path leads to the ('/2 't-) foot of the Stal-
den, and then ascends a toilsome and stony slope to (1 hr.) a group
of houses (fine retrospect); V4^'^- farther on, it crosses the Starzlen-
bach by the Klosterberg Bridge, to the left, and ascends rapidly to
the right to two houses ; 40 min., by a gate, we descend to the right.
and cross the brook; 10 min., a cross; 5 min. , a cattle-shed in a
picturesque valley; ^/i]ir.,the Sennebrunnen, with excellent water;
5 min., refuge-hut; 5 min., a cross. Lastly, almost level, to the (25
min.) chalets on the marshy Fragel (5060'; no view).
The path, at first steep and stony, now descends to the (3/4 hr.)
chalets of the Schwellaui (4367'), and then leads through wood ;
1/4 hr., the Neuhuttli (4193'); here we turn to the right towards a
large pine, where the pretty Klonthal and its lake become visible;
7-2 hr. Richisau {3590'; Kurhaus, moderate, pens. 5-7 fr.), a rich
green pasture with fine groups of trees, to the N. of which tower
the Wannenstock (6495') and Ochsenkopf (7155'), and to the S.
the furrowed slopes of the SUbern (7570').
The Schwcinnhohe, an old moraine, V2 M. to the E. of the Kurhaus,
aflfords a beautiful view of the Klonsee, Schild, Glarnisch, and (to the S.) the
Faulen. Attractive excursions may be made to the W. to the (2V2 hrs.) Cross
on the Saasberg (6225'; pass to the Sihlthal and Einsiedeln) and to (5 min.)
the Sihlseeli (5985'); to the S. to (3 hrs.) the top of the Silbern (7570'),
with fossils and interesting furrowed slopes; to the Gldriiisch (see below;
to the club-hut 4 hrs., thence tn the top 3 hrs.); to the top of i\i& Faulen
(Grieset, 8953') via the Dreckloch-Alp in 6 hrs. (with guide), descending to
(4 hrs.) Slachelberg (p. 61); to theN., via (1 'hT)t\i^ Sdiweinalp, to (S'/a hrs.)
JlinUricaggithal (comp. p. 41); to the tup of the Oc/iscnkcpf (libb' ; 872 hrs. ;
with guide); to the top of the Schei/e (5 hrs. ; seep. 60) vi^ Langenegg, etc.
From Richisau a road descends , across a fine open pasture, in
full view of the imposing Glarnisch, to (1 hr.) Vorauen (2640' ;
Hotel-Pension Klonthal, new; Aebli^s Inn, -pluin), beautifully situated
in the Klonthal.
The -Glfimisch , the huge rocks of which bound the Klonthal on the
S. side, one of the most picturesque mountains in Switzerland, culmin-
ates in the Vorder- Glarnisch (7648'), the VrenelisgartU or MiUler-Gliirnisch
(9535'), the Ruchen- Glarnisch (9557'), and the Bachistock or Hinler-Gldrnisch
(9583'). The ascent of the Ruchen-Glarnisch is not difficult for moun-
taineers (71/2 hrs. ; guide 25 fr. ; see p. 62). We cross the Richisauer and
Kossmatter Kliin , to the W. of Vorauen, to the huts on (40 min.) the
Klonstdldm (Vifiti' ; direct path hither from Richisau in 25 min.), then
enter the narrow Rossmatter Thai, pass the chalets of Kasern (3968') and
Werben (4.562'), and reach the (81/2 hrs.) Cliib Hut in the Steinlhali (6613';
Inn in summer). We next ascend steep stony slopes and cross the Glar-
nisch frn, regain the rock, and reach the top in 3 hrs. from the hut. Very
grand view (panorama by Heim). — Ascent of the Vorder-Gldrnisch from
Glarus laborious (.5'/2-6 hrs. ; comp. p. 61).
Ascent of the Schetie (Wiggis) from Vorauen, see p. 60. Over the
Schweinalp Pass to the Wiiggithal, see p. 42.
The *K16nthal is a picturesque dale, with meadows of freshest
green, carpeted with wild- flowers until late in the autumn, and
thinly peopled. To the S. rise the almost perpendicular precipices
of the Glarnisch (see above). The pale-green ^iont/iater<See (2640'),
11/2 M. from Vorauen, a lake 2 M. long and 1/3 M. broad, enhances
the beauty of the valley, reflecting in calm weather the minutest
SERNFTHAL. 22. Route. 67
furrows on tlie side of the Glarnisch. The rocks on the S. bank,
near a waterfall, bear an inscription to the poet Salomon Oessner
(d. 1787), who often spent the summer in a neighbouring chalet.
The road skirts the N. bank. A small steamer now plies on the
lake; boat across the lake in 50 min., 1-10 pers. IV2 f^. At the
(Sy.) M.) ^Seeruti\ at the lower end of the lake, is a small Inn.
Below the lake the valley narrows to a gorge, through which
dashes the LonfscA, the discharge of the lake, forming a series of
cascades amid grand rocky scenery down to its confluence with the
Linth, below Netstall. To the left rise the huge perpendicular cliffs
of the Wiggis Chain (p. 60). We obtain a pretty view of the deep
ravine from the iron foot-bridge , which crosses to the Kohlgrubli
Inn, beside a (2/4 hr.) guide-post, below the road to the right.
The road divides at the (^/^M.) Staldengarten inn. The left
branch leads to (2 M.) Netstall (p. 60) , the right leads over the
Lontsch bridge to (1 M.) Riedern and (I74 M.) Glarus (p. 60).
In descending we enjoy a fine view of the Fronalpstock, the ScJiild,
and the Freiberge (between the Linth and Sernf valleys).
22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal.
Comp. Mapi p. 60.
16-18 hrs. Eailwat from Glarus to Schwanden, 17 min. ; Diligence
from Schwanden to Elm twice dally in 2^/4 hrs. (descent, P/i hr.). — From
Elm to Films over the Segnes Pass, 8-9 hrs., guide 20 fr. (p. 68); to Ilanz
over the Panixer Pass, 9 hrs., guide 18 fr. — From Films to Coire Dili-
gence twice daily in 2V4 hrs. ; from Films to Reichenau a pleasant walk;
thence to Coire driving is preferable (diligence 4 times daily).
At Schwanden (p. 61), 3 M. to the S, of Glarus, the deep Sernf-
Thal, or Klein-Thai , diverges to the left from the Linththal. The
high-road gradually ascends the N. slope. Beyond {V/2 M.) Wart
is a pretty waterfall on the left ; fine retrospective view of the
Glarnisch. 3 M. Engl {26i0'; pop. 1148; *Sonne), with cotton-
mills, at the mouth of the narrow Miihlehach-Thal. (Passage of
the Widerstein-Furkel to the Murgthal, see p. 45.) The slate-
quarries (Plattenherge) on the left bank of the Sernf are noted for
their fossil flsh. From (2 M.) Matt (2710') a path to the N. E.
leads in 6 hrs. through the Krauchlhal and over the Rieseten Pass
(6644') to Weisstannen (p. 46).
3 M. (91/2 M. from Schwanden) Elm (3215' ; *J. Elmer ; Zentner).
the highest village in the valley, in a fine basin encircled by snow-
mountains, was partly destroyed by a landslip on 11th Sept., 1881.
From the Tschmgelberg, above the slate -quarries to the S.E. of the
village, between the Risikopf and the Gelbe Kopf, a rock about 1300' in
breadth, 320' in thickness, and 800' in height, became detached and was
precipitated over a steep slope, with a gradient of about 70:100, into the
valley 1480' below, covering it for a distance of 1 M. with an enormous
mass of debris, upwards of 225 acres in area. Nearly the whole VnUr-
thal, the garden of the village, with 22 dwelling-houses and 57 other
buildings, was destroyed; 114 persons perished; and the damage was
estimated at nearly I'/z million fr. The church bears a memorial tablet
68 Route 22. SEGNES PASS.
recording the names of the deceased. Below the village a road crosses
the Sernf by a new iron bridge and intersects the scene of the landslip,
where cultivation is beginning to reappear.
Ascents (for experts only; guides Heinrich and Peter Elmer, see p. 62).
The Karpfstock (9180'), by the Wichlen-Alp, 6 hrs. (laborious, but, with
good guides, free from danger). — The Yorab (9925'), by the Sether Fiirka
(see below), 7-8 hrs. — The JJausslock (10,340'), the Piz Segnes (10,230'),
and the Saurenstock (10,025') are more difficult.
Passes. To Flims over the Segnes Pass, 8 hrs., fatiguing, but
interesting (guide, 18 fr., advisable even for experts as far as the other side
of the snow-field beyond the pass). We cross the Sernf, amidst the re-
mains of the landslip , and the Raminhach , and ascend the wild gorge
of the TscMiigelnbach, which forms several picturesque falls, to the Tschin-
(jeln-Alp. We then mount steep grassy and stony slopes to the (5 hrs.)
Segnes Pass (8615') , lying to the S.W. of the Piz Segnes (10,230'). To
the right rise the jagged Tschingelhbnier or Mannen (9452 ') , perforated by
the Martinsloch (8648'), a hole through which the sun shines on the
church of Elm twice a year. Descent over a slope of snow, and then over
ddbris; to the left is the Segnes Glacier, between the Piz Segnes and the
Trinserhorn (9935'). The path , which now improves , descends through
pastures, wood, and meadows , in view of the Vorder-Rheinthal and its
mountains, to (3 hrs.) Flims (p. 358).
To Llanz ovee the Panixee Pass, 9 hrs. (guide 18 fr.), fatiguing
and unattractive, but historically famous for Suvorofi^'s retreat of 5th-10th
Oct., 1799 (comp. p. 65). A road ascends on the left bank of the Sernf
from Elm by Hinter-Sleinibach to the (40 min.) Erbsevhriicke ; 25 min. farther
up, at Wallenbrugg, we cross the Sernf and ascend by a steep, rugged path
to the chalets of the Jatzalp (Im Loch, 4822'; Ober- Staff el , 5587'). We
next cross the Walenboden, pass the Rvikenkopf, traverse a patch of snow
(with a small tarn on the left), and reach the (SVz hrs.) Panixer Pass
(Cuolm da Pignieu; 7907'), with its refuge-hut. On the right rises the
Hausstock (see above), with t\i& Meer-Glacier- Descent over the Meer-Alp and
the wild Eanasca-Alp to (2V2 hrs.) Panix (4334'; Panixer Pass Inn), and via
Ruis to (2 hrs.) llanz (p. 359). — Another route, fatiguing and uninteresting,
crosses the Sether Furka (8565'). It diverges from the Panix route to the
left, by the tarn above mentioned, and ascends steeply to the pass. De-
scent by the Ruscheiner Alp and the Sether Tobel to (9 hrs.) llanz (p. 359).
To Weisstannen by the Foo Pass, 7 hrs., rather rough (guide 15 fr.).
We ascend the right bank of the Raminbach, chiefly through wood, to the
Ramin-Alp, and past the chalets of Matt (6179'), to the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass,
or Ramin Pass (7333'); then descend by the Foo-Alp and the Unter-Siez-
Alp (4377') to the Seez Valley and (3 hrs.) Weisstannen (p. 46 ; 3 hrs. from Mels).
To Vattis over the Saedona Pass, 10-11 hrs., difficult, and rarely
traversed (guide 30 fr.). From the Segnes Pass (see above) we clamber
round the abrupt W. side of the Piz Segnes to the Sauren Glacier and
the Sardona Pass (about 9680'), between the Piz Segnes and the Saurenstock
(10,025'). Very steep descent to the Segnes Glacier, which we cross to the
Sardona Glacier; then a rugged descent to the Sardona-Alp (5735'), in the
Kalfeuser-Thal, 3 hrs. above Vattis (p. 344). — Another difficult and labo-
rious pass from Elm to Vattis (9-10 hrs.) is the Scheibe Pass, between the
Saurenstock and the Grosse Scheibe (9620'). — Over the Muttenthaler
Geat, lO-Uhrs. to Vattis, less difficult, but rough and fatiguing (guide25fr.).
From the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass (see above) we first descend to the Obere
Foo-Alp, then ascend to the right through the Muttenthal to the basin of
the Haibiitzli, with a small tarn (7693'), and thence to the (3 hrs.) Mutten-
thaler Grat (about 8200'). Rough descent over the Malanser Alp to (2 hrs.)
St. Martin (4433') in the Kalfetiser Thai and (2 hrs.) Vattis (p. 344).
To Linththal, by the Richetli Pass (7428'), 8 hrs., not difficult ; 'View
of the Hausstock, Vorab, and Glarnisch. Descent by the Durnachthal.
II. LAKE OF LUCERNE AND ENVIRONS.
THE ST. OOTTHARD.
23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 70
i. Railway Journey 70
ii. From Zurich to Zug via Horgen 72
Stalactite Caverns in the Holle, 72.
24. Lucerne 73
25. Lake of Lucerne 77
From Beckenried to Seelisberg, 79. — Kurhaus Seelis-
berg. Seelisberger Kulm, 80. — Morschacb, Axenfels,
Axenstein, Stoos, Frohnalpstock , 82. — Riemenatalden-
thal. Rophaien. Rossstock. Kaiserstock, 83. — ^ Isenthal,
82. — Isenthal. Uri-Rothstock, 83, 84.
26. The Rlgi 84
27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus 91
Biirgenstock, 91. — From Stansstad to Sarnen, 92.
28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 94
i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug 94
ii. From Lucerne to Kiissnach and Arth 95
29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and Brun-
nen 96
Ascent of the Gottschalkenberg from Biberbruck, 96. —
From Rapperswyl to Einsiedeln : the Etzel, 96. — From
Sattel to Mgeri and to Goldau, 98. — From Einsiedeln to
Schwyz, crossing the Hacken or the Iberger Egg, 98, 99.
30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . 99
The Rossberg, 100.— The Mythen, 101. — Schiichenthal;
Rossstock; Erstfelder Thai, 102. — Bristenstock; Hohe
Faulen, 103. — The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to
Goschenen, 103. — From Airolo through the Val Piora
to S. Maria and Disentis, 105.
31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . 108
The Goschenen Valley. Passes to Realp,theTrift Glacier,
andthe Steinalp, 108. — The Fleckistock, 109. — The Badus
or Six Madun ; the Gurschenstock and Gamsstock, 110.
— Lucendro Lake, 111. — The Pizzo Centrale; Prosa ;
Fibbia ; Piz Lucendro -, Sorescia, 111. — From the St. Gott-
hard over the Orsino Pass to Realp, and over the Lecki
Pass to the Furka, 112.
32. The Maderaner Thai 112
Hiifi Glacier; Diissistock; Oberalpstock, etc., 113. —
Clariden Pass; Hiifi Pass; Kammliliicke; Ruchkehlen
Pass ; Scheerhorn - Griggeli Pass ; Brunni Pass, 114.
33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . 114
From Realp over the Cavanna Pass to the Val Bedretto,
115. — Tiefengletscher; Tiefensattel ; Winterliicke. 115.
— Furkahorn ; Jluttenhorn ; Galenstock. From the Furka
across the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice, 116.
34. From Lucerne to Altdorf via Stans and Engelberg.
The Surenen Pass 116
Stanser Horn ; Euochser Horn, 117. — Excursions from
70 Route 23. AFFOLTERN. From Zurich
Engelberg: Oberscliwand;TatschbachFalI;Rigithalstock;
Engelberg-Rothstnck ; llri-Rothstock ; Spannort; Titlis,
118, 119. — FromKngelberg to Erstfeld over the Spannort-
joch or the Schlossberg-Liicke; to Wasen over the Gras-
sen Pass; to the Steinalp over the Wendenjoch, 119.
35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and
Brienz (Interlaken) 120
Schwendi-Kaltbad; the Melchthal ; over the Storregg or
the .luchli to Engelberg; over the Tannenalp to the
Engstlenalp ; and over the Laubergrat to Meiringen, 121,
122. — From Briinig to Meiringen, 123.
36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 123
From the Engstlenalp to the Melchthal; Erzegg; Hohen-
stollen, 124. — Ascent of the Titlis from the Engstlenalp,
124. — From the Engstlenalp over the Siitteli to the
Gadmenthal, 124.
37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 125
Triftthal. Excursions from the Trifthiitte (Dammastock,
etc.); over the Triftlimmi to the Rhone Glacier; Furt-
v^ang-Sattel and Steinlimmi, 126, 126. — From the
Stein Inn over the Sustenlimmi to the Goschenenalp ;
Brunnenstock, 126.
38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal . . 127
Schwarzenberg; Bramegg Route ; Sehimberger Bad, 127.
— The Napf. Ascent of the Brienzer Rothhorn from
Schiipfheim, 128. — Ruttihubelbad, 129.
39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (^Aarau). The 'Seethal'
Railway 129
Excursions from Hochdorf: Hohenrain ; Horben; Ober-
reinach, etc., 129, 130. — From Hitzkirch to Wohlen
by Fahrv?angen, 130. — From Beinwyl to Reinach and
Menzikon; Hombcrg, 130. — From Bonisv^yl to Fahr-
wangen ; Brestenberg, 130.
23. From Ziirich to Zug and Lucerne.
Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 76.
1. Railway Journey.
411/-.! M. Railway to Zug in 11/2 hr. (4 fr. 5, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c.) ; to
Lucerne in 2'/3 hrs. (7 fr., 4fr. 90, 3 fr. 50c. ; return-tickets at reduced rates).
On leaving the station the train crosses the Sihl, and at (^21/2 M.)
Altstetten diverges from the Bale line (p. 19). To the left rises the
long Uetliberg (p. 38), which the line skirts in a wide curve. To
the right the pretty valley of the Limmat. 51/2 M. JJrdorf; 8 M.
Birmensdorf. We now follow the pleasant Reppisch-Thal. To the
left the hotel on the Uetliberg. The train ascends through a tunnel
under the Ettenberg to (12 M.) Bonstetten-Wettsivyl (1805')- To
the right the Bernese Alps and Pilatus ; and to the left, farther on,
the Engelberg Alps, with the Uri-Rothstock and the Titlis, become
visible. 14 M. Hedinyen; I51/2 M. Affoltern (Lowe). To the left
rises the Aeugster Berg (2723'), at the foot of which lie Aeugst and
the Baths of Wengi. — 18 M. Mettmenstettm (1550').
to Lucerne. ZUG. 23. Route. 71
Diligence daily in 50 rain, to Hausen (1980'; ~Ldwe), at the W. base
of the Albis (p. 38J; near it the hydropathic Kurhaus of Albisbninn. Near
Kappel, IV2 M. to the S., on the road to Baar (p. 72), Zwingli was slain
on 11th Oct. 1531, in battle against the Eom. Cath. cantons (comp. p. 37).
20 M. Knonau (Adler). Near Zug we cross the Lorze, which
descends from the Aegeri-See (p. 98).
241/2 M. Zug (1385'; *Hirsch, R. 2-3, D., incl. wiue, 3,
pens. 4 fr. , R. extra; Bellevue; *Ochs; Falk; Krone; *Lbwe,
on the lake, R., L., & A. 2 fr. 70 c, B. 1 fr., good beer in
the restaurant; Linde ; *H6tel Bahnhof, with garden-restaurant;
*Pens. Guggithal, on the road to Felsenegg), the capital of the
smallest Swiss canton, with 5118 inhab., lies on the lake of that
name. The upper town still retains a quaint and mediaeval
appearance, with its walls, towers, and substantial mansions. In
the ancient Rathhaus (now a restaurant) is a handsome late-Gothic
apartment containing a museum of wood-carvings and other antiqui-
ties of Zug. The Church of the Capuchins contains an Entombment
by Calvaert. In the Arsenal are preserved ancient captured
weapons and flags , and a scarf stained with the blood of its bearer
Peter Collin, who fell at Arbedo in 1422. At the S. end of the
town, on the lake, is the Hospital, built in 1854. Handsome new
Government Buildings in the Renaissance style. Part of the 'Vor-
stadt' was undermined by the lake on July 5th, 1887.
On the W. slope of the Zuger Berg, IV2 hr. from Zug (good road ; om-
nibus from the station at 11 and 6; fare 2'/2fr.), are the "Kurhaus Felsenegg
(3130'; pens. 7-8 fr. ; English Church Service in summer), with a fine view
towards the W., and (5 min. to the X.) the Kurhaus Schonfels (R. l'/2-3,
pens. 71/2-9 fr.), with pleasant grounds, also commanding a beautiful view.
This spot is recommended for a prolonged stay; pleasant wood-walks. The
(','4 hr.) "Hochwacht (3250'), '/< M. to the N.E., commands a complete sur-
vey of the Alpine chain; below us, to the E., lies the Lake of jEgeri (p. 98).
— Pretty walks also to the (20 min.) Hiingigiitsch (2400'; view interrupted
by trees) and the (V2 hr.) Borbachgiitsch (3070'), which affords a charming
view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne and the Rigi. — At Menzingen in
the pretty valley of the Lorze, 41/2 M. to the E. of Zug (diligence twice daily),
is the ''Schonbrunn Hydropathic (2210'), well fitted up. In the vicinity are
the interesting ^Stalactite Caverns in the Holle (p. 72; carriage with one
horse from Zug via Baar, 4V2 M., and back, 6 fr. and fee; footpath via
Thctlacker, 3 M.).
The train backs out of the station and skirts the flat N. bank of
the Lake of Zug (p. 94), crosses the Lorze near its influx into the
lake, and recrosses it at its efflux near (27^/2 M.) Cham ('*i?a6e^, a vil-
lage with a slender zinc-covered church-tower and a large manufactory
of coTidensed milk. Fine view of Zug to the left. On the hill above
Zug are the summer-resorts just mentioned ; in the middle distance
rises the Rigi; and to the right are the Stanser Horn, the Engelberg
Alps, and Pllatus. Beyond (31 M.) Rothkreuz (1410'; Rail. Re-
staurant'), the junction of the St. Gotthard(p. 99) and the Muri and
Aarau (p, 21) lines, we enter the valley of the Reuss. 33 M. Oisi-
kon. 'Through an opening to the left wc survey the Rigi, from the
Kulm to the Rothstock. 37 M. Ebikon. To the right rises the wooded
Ilundsriicken, The train skirts the Rothsee, 1 1/2 M. long, and crosses
72 Route 23. RAAR.
tlie Reuss by a bridge 178 yds. long. The line now unites with tlic
Swiss Central (p. 21) and the Lucerne and Bern lines (p. 127), and
finally passes through a tunnel under the Gutsch (p. 76).
41 '/o M. Lucerne, see p. 73.
ii. From Ziiricli to Zug vi& Horgen.
Railway from Zurich to (11 M.) Horffen, '/z I"", (steamer in l^/i hr.,
see p. 39). Post Omnibus daily (8.50 a. m.J from Horgen to (12'/z M.) Zug
in 2 hrs. 35 min.; carr. with one horse in 2 hrs., 12 fr.
To Horgen (1394'), see p. 40. The road ascends in windings,
passing the Kurhaus Bocken, to (3 M.) Hauriithi, where, by tlie
finger-post, it joins the road from Wadenswyl. Several fine views
of the lake, the Sentis, Speer, Curfirsten, and the Glarus Mts.
About 1/2 ^- farther on we reach the saddle of the hill (2245'),
and, at the top of the hill, the (1 M.) Inn Zum Moryenthal, at Hirzel.
We then descend gradually into the valley of the iSi/tZ, which sep-
arates the cantons of Ziirich and Zug. The (2 M.) covered Sihl-
Brucke (1745'; *Krone, good wine) replaces one destroyed during
the war of the Separate League in 1847.
Pedestrians should take the road from Horgen over the Horger Egg
to the Sihlbriicke (41/2 M.), which shortens the route by 2 M., and affords
far finer views. !Near (2 M.) Wydenbach rises the *Zimmerberg (2535'),
'/4 hr. to the right, with a beautiful view of the Lake of Zurich, the sombre
valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, the Alps, and particularly the Mythen,
the Rigi, and Pilatus. About ^|^ M. beyond Wydenbach the road reaches the
Hirzclhohe (2415' ; Inn), its highest point, with another fine prospect. We
join the high-road near the Sihlbriicke.
The Zug road leads through an undulating tract, passing on
the left the wooded hill of the Baarburg (2180'). Beyond the wood
(2 M.) we obtain a view of Baar, the Lake of Zug, the Rigi, and
Pilatus. To the left, 74^- farther on, on the Lorze, which we cross,
is a large cotton-factory. The Rigi and Pilatus now appear in all
their grandeur. At (IV4 M.) Baar (1465'; Linden/to/", moderate;
Krone; Sennhof; RossU) there is another large mill. A curious
custom, not unknown in other parts of Switzerland (comp. p. 110),
prevails here. On the occasional opening of the graves the skulls
are conveyed by the relatives of the deceased to the charnel-house,
where they are kept in symmetrical piles.
In the picturesquely wooded Lorzethal, 2 M. to the E. of Baar, are
the curious "Stalactite Caverns in the JJolle, rendered accessible some
years ago by the proprietor. Dr. Schmid. Of the many fine and curiously
shaped stalactitic formations, the most remarkable are the silicious
masses resembling clusters of grapes, which were formed below the level
of the water that at one time occupied the caverns. The carriage-road to
the caverns leads from the above-mentioned cotton-factory along the left
bank of the Lorze to (172 M.) a bridge opposite the junction of the Hiill-
hach, near which, on the right bank of the Lorze, is the Restaurant zur
Hiill. The entrance to the caverns is in a massive cliff of tufa, '/i M-
to the S., on the same side of the river (key and guide at the restaurant;
adm. daily from 8 a.m.. Sun. from 1 p.m., 1 fr., parties 50c. each person).
From the caverns to Schonbrunn (p. 71), I'/i M. ; to Zug, via the Tobel-
briicke and Thalarhr, 3 M. (comp. p. 71).
From Baar we continue straight on to (2^2 M.) Zug, see p. 71,
73
24. Lncerne.
Railway Station (PI. D, E, 4) on the left bank of the lake. The steam-
boats to Fluelen generally touch here after leaving the Schweizerhof Quay ;
those from Fluelen touch first at the station, and then at the quay.
Hotels. "ScHWEizEEHOF (PI. a; D, E, 2), a spacious hotel admirably
fitted up, with two 'depemlances', and *Ldzernek Hop (PI. b; E, 2), both on
the Schweizerhof Quay, R., L., & A. from 5, B. IV2, D. 4'/2-5, music '/zfr.;
'Hotel National (PI. c; E, F, 2), on the Quai National, R., L., & A. from 6,
D. 5fr. ; Hotel -Pension Beadrivage (PI. d; F, 2) and 'Hotel de l'Edbope,
both on the lake, in the Halden-Strasse ; 'Englischer Hof (PI. el;
*SCHWAN (PI. f), R., L., (t A. 41/2-51/2, D. 41/2 fr. ; -Hotel du Rigi (PI. g)
R., L., & A. 3, B. IV2, D. 3 fr. (these three on the lake, on the right bank);
'Hotel dd Lac (PI. h; D, 4), on the left bank of the Reuss, with garden
and bath-house, R., L., & A. from 4, D., incl. wine, 31/2, pens. 7V2-9 fr. ;
'Hotel St. Gotthaed (PI. i), with restaurant, near the station, R., L., & A.
31/2-41/2, B. 11/2, D. 31/2 fr. ; -Wage (Balances, PI. k ; C, 3), near the third
bridge over the Reuss, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. 11/2, D. 31/2, pens. 7-9 fr. —
Inexpensive: 'Engel (PI. 1; B, 3), R. & A. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; *Adler (PI. m;
C, 3), R. 11/2 fr.; 'Weisses ROssli (P). n; C, 3), R. & A. 2'/2, B. I'/j, D.
incl. wine 3'/2 fr. ; "Hotel de la Poste (PL o ; C, 4) ; Hotel des Alpes
(PI. p; D, 2), R. & A. 21/2-3 fr. ; 'Hotel Wolder, Kappelgasse; Mohr
(PI. u; D, 3j; HiRSCH (PI. q; C, 3); 'Krone (PI. r; C, 3); 'Weisses Kreuz
(PI. s; D, 3j; 'Wilder Mann (PI. t; C, 4), R. & A. 2-2i/2fF., B. 1 fr. 20 c. ;
'Raben ; Pfistern; "Metzgeen; *Sonne, on the lake.
Pensions. -Kavfmann ; Waller & Schloss O'segnet-MaU; "Villa G'segnet-
Matl (Oelpke) ;' Tivoli [Ivike.-hiii'iis^ see below); farther on, *<See6i/7'g' (steam-
boat-station; p. 95). All these are on the Kiissnach road, close to the lake.
"Belvedere., above Tivoli (pens. 5-7 fr.) ; Faller, above Beaurivage ; Hirschi/,
opposite the Kursaal; "JVeu-Sc/iiceizerlians (Kost), Felsherg ( Pielzker), both
loftily situated; -All-Scfiweizerhaus d- Pension Anglaise:, Kost - HafHger ,
Villa Deschwanden, Bramberg 683 d; Stacker, near the Musegg-Str. : II6t.-
Pens. Giitsck (D. 31/2, pens. 8 fr.) and '-Pens. TVallis, on the GUtsch (p. 76),
with charming view; ''Suter ("pens. 5-6 fr.), on the hill oi Gibraltar I^-IQ):,
Schonau, on the Meggen road, 2 M. from Lucerne. Still higher, to the S. of
Lucerne (railway to Kriens in 12 min., thence an ascent of 3/4 hr. ; one-horse
carr. from Lucerne 12 fr. ; comp. p. 76), 'X«r?iaa« Sonnenherg, with pleasant
grounds and a fine view (7 fr. per day). Pens. Stntz, see p. 91.
Restaurants. Kursaal, high charges ; St. GottJiard, near the station, see
above; Ca/<! du Thialre and Alpenclub, on the Reuss; "Sladlhof (PI. G, 2, 3),
with garden (band frequently); Cafi du Lac, on the Schweizerhof Quay;
Hungaria (Hungarian wines); Cafi des Alpes (with a few bedrooms), on
the Schweizerhof Quay. — Beer. -Muth , at the Weggis Gate ; Krein (see
above) ; Seidenhof , on the left bank of the Reuss ; Lowengarten , near the
Lion Monument. — Confectioner. Berger, near the Stadthof.
Eursaal on the Quai National (PI. F, 2), with reading, concert, and
ball-rooms, restaurant, theatre, and garden. Band daily, 4-5 30 p.m. Ad-
mission 50 c, for the day 1 fr. — Theatre (French operettas): stalls 4,
pit and balcony 2 fr. Companj' not altogether select.
Baths in "the lake by the Quai National, above the Kursaal ; swim
ming 25, separate bath 50 c. — • Lake-baths also near the Tivoli (see above).
Baths in the Reuss below the town, with swimming-basin. Warm baths
at Felder-Lehmann's, Spreuer-Briicke.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 4), in the Bahnhofs-Platz.— Steam-
boats, see pp. 77, 91, 95.
Cabs. For 1/4 hr. , 1-2 pers. 80 c., 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. (to or from the
Station 1 or 2 fr.); for 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 3fr. 60 c. ; each box 30 c. — To
Seeburg I1/2 or 2 fr. ; Meggen 31/2 or 5fr. ; Kiissnach 81/2 or 9 fr. — From
10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares.
Rowing Boats, usually 75 c. per hr. ; for each boatman 75 c.
Gold and Silver Work, antique furniture, tapestry, etc., at /. Bossard's
in the Hirschen-Platz (PI. C, 3).
74 Route '2J. LUCERNE. Bridges.
English Church Service iu the Protestant Church in summer. Presby-
terian Service in the Maria-Hilf Church, at 11 and 6.
Lucerne (1437'; pop. 20,308), the capital of the canton of
that name which joined the original cantons in 1332, lies pictur-
esquely on the Lake of Lucerne or Vierwaldstatter See, at tlie
efflux of the Reuss. It is enclosed by well-preserved walls with
nine watch-towers, erected in 1385, while its amphitheatrical sit-
uation surrounded by low hills , facing the Rigi and Pilatus
and the snow-clad Alps of Uri and Engelberg, is one of surpassing
beauty.
The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the
swiftness of a torrent. Its banks are connected by four bridges.
The highest, the iron Seebriicke (PI. D, 3), erected in 1869-70,
500' long and 50' wide, crosses from the town to the railway-station,
and affords an excellent view of the town and the lake. The two
interesting mediaeval bridges, the Kapellbriicke (PI. D, 3) and
the Spreuerbriicke or MuMenbrucke (PI. B, C, 3), are both carried
obliquely across the stream. Each is covered with a roof, which,
in the case of the former, is painted with 154 scenes from the lives
of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the patron-saints of Lucerne,
and from Swiss history; and in the case of the latter, with a Dance
of Death. The paintings all date from the 18th century. Adjoining
the Kapellbriicke, in the middle of the river, rises the old Wasser-
thiu-m (PI. D , 3) , containing the admirably arranged Municipal
Archives. According to tradition, this building was once a lighthouse
(lucerna), and gave its name to the town. St. Peter's Chapel, on
the N. bank, has four modern altar-pieces by Deschwanden, a na-
tive of Stans (p. 117). — The Reuss and the lake are enlivened
with swans and flocks of half-tame waterfowl (Fulica atra; black,
with white heads).
The *Scliweizerhof Quay (PI. D, E, 2), constructed in 1852,
with its fine avenue of chestnuts, extends in front of the large
hotels along the N. bank of the lake and affords a delightful view.
The stone indicator on a projecting platform in the middle of the
Schweizerhof Quay, points out the chief places in the environs.
View. To the left the liigi Group ; to the left is the Kulm with the
hotels; on the saddle between the Kulm and the Rothslock is the Stafl'cl
Inn ; more to the right the Schild , the Dosseii , and the isolated VHznauer
Stock. To the left of the Rigi, above the hills by the lake, rises the
peak of the Rossberg; to the right of the Vitznauer Stock, in the distance,
are the singularly indented peaks of the Ross-Stock Chain; then the A'ieder-
Bauen or Seclisberger Kulm and the Ober- Bauen ; nearer are the dark
BUrgenstock, with its hotel, and the Buochser Horn; to the left and right
of the latter tower the Engelberg Alps, the last to the right being the Titlis ;
farther to the right the Stanserliorn, the mountains of Kerns and Sachseln,
and to the extreme right I'ilalu.i.
At the E. end of the quay, opposite the handsome new office of
the St. Gotthard Railway, is a pavilion containing an interesting
*Relief of the Jungfrau Group, by Simon (adm. in July and Aug.
1 fr, , in June and Sept. 50 c). — The continuation of the quay
Lion of Lucerne. LUCERNE. '24. Route. 75
towards the E., on which is the Kursaal (p. 73), is known as the
Quai National (PI. E, F, 2).
On rising ground overlooking the quay is the *Hofkirclie , or
Stiftskirche (PI. E, F, 2), restored in the 16th cent., with two
slender towers erected about 1506. It contains a carved pulpit,
and stalls of the 16th cent., stained-glass windows, and two side-
altars with gilded reliefs in carved wood, that on the N. side
representing the death of the Virgin (15th cent.). The Churchyard
contains some good monuments. In the enclosing arcades are sev-
eral frescoes by Deschwanden.
We next pass, in the wide Ziiricher-Strasse, Meyer's Diorama
of the Rigi and Pilatus (PI. D, E, 2; adm. 1 or i^/^ fr., interesting)
and (on the right) SUmffers Museum of stuffed Alpine animals (PI.
E, 1 ; adm. 1 fr.), and in 5 min. reach the famous *Lioii of Lucerne
(Pl.E, 1), a most impressive work, executed in 1821 to the memory
of 26 officers and about 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard, who fell
in the defence of the Tuileries on 10th Aug., 1792. The dying lion
(28' in length), reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a broken lance,
and sheltering the Bourbon lily with its paw, is hewn out of the
natural sandstone rock after a model (exhibited in the adjoining
building) by the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen. Inscrip-
tion : Helvetiorum fidei ac virtuti. Die XAug.. II et III Sept. 1792.
Haec sunt nomina eorum, qui ne sacramenti fidem fallerent, fortissime
pugnantes ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicorum cura cladi
superfuerunt Duces XVI. The rock which bears the inscription and
names of the officers is overhung with trees and creepers. A spring
at the top flows down on one side and forms a dark pool at the base,
surrounded by trees and shrubs. — The neighbouring Chapel (in-
scription .• Invictis Pax) contains the escutcheons of the deceased
officers, and the Museum, opposite the Lion, contains a diorama
of the last struggle of the Swiss guard in the Tuileries, by Bang and
Lorch, and an exhibition of Swiss and foreign pictures (adm. 1 fr.).
On the N. side of the monument is the entrance to the*Gletscher-
garten (adm. 1 fr.), a most interesting relic of the ice-period,
with 32 holes formed by whirlpools, of different sizes (the largest
being 26' wide and 30' deep), well-preserved 'Gletscherschliffe',
or rocks worn by the action of the ice, etc., discovered in 1872,
and connected by means of steps and bridges. A kiosque here
contains Pfyffers Relief of Central Switzerland, on a scale of 5'/3
inches to the mile, 23' long, and 13' wide; in another there is a
small collection of relics from lake-dwellings. Adjacent is a cafe-
restaurant.
Many quaint and picturesque houses of the 16 -17th cent,
are still to be seen in the crooked streets of the older parts of the
town (PL C, D, 3). — The ancient Eathhaus (PI. C, D, 3), in the
corn-market, dates from 1519-1605. A fresco on the tower repre-
76 Route 24. LUCERNE.
seiits tlie death of tlic magistrate Gundolflngen at the Battle of
Seuipach.
On the ground-lloor is an interesting Historical Museum (adm. 9-6,
1 fr.)- Room 1. contains the armoury from the Arsenal, embracing weap-
ons, flags, and trophies of the battles of the 14th cent, and of the Bur-
gundian and Milanese wars; in the glass-case on the right are the coat of
mail of Duke Leopold of Austria, and several banners captured by the
townsmen at the battle of Sempaeh. A cha'^ed sword-handle (' Tellen
sehwerf, i.e. 'TelPs sword') of the 16th cent., and the uniforms of different
Swiss guards (in the middle of the large glass-case) should also be noticed.
At the windows is exhibited a "Collection of Stained Glass of the 14-18th
cent., including a series of armorial bearings of the 17th century. — Room II.
contains the collections of the Historical Society, comprising relics of the
pre-historic, Celtic-Roman, Germanic, and medipeval periods ; in the centre
are Roman objects (bronze statue of Mercury; IripodJ and bridal chests
of the 15-17th centuries. On the wall to the right, under glass, is the blue
and white banner presented to Lucerne by Pope Julius II.
A fine Gothic staircase leads to the first floor, on which is the
Council Chamber , with beautiful 16th cent, carving on the ceiling and
walls. In the ante-chamber are a number of portraits of magistrates,
most of which are by Reinhart.
An Art Exhibition takes place in the large hall by which we enter,
from June 1st to Oct. 15th.
The late-Gothic Fountain in the Weinmarkt (PI. C, 3) dates
from 1481. — In the vicinity, in the Hirschen-Platz, is the house
of the goldsmith Bossard (p. 73), adorned with frescoes.
The JesTiit Church (PL C, 4) contains an altar-piece in the sec-
ond chapel to the right, representing St. Nikolaus von der Fliie
(p. 121), behind which the robe of the saint is preserved.
The *Gutsch (17*22'), an eminence on the left bank of the
Reuss, at the W. end of the town (cable-train in 3 min., every
1/4 hr. ; fare 30, return-ticket 50 c), affords a splendid survey of
the town , the lake , the Rigi , and the Alps of Uri , Unterwalden,
and Engelberg. *notel and Restaurant, with wooded grounds, at the
top. A pretty walk through the woods leads from the Giitsch to
the (l'/2hr.) Kurhaus Sonnenberg (p. 73), whence we may descend
to (25 min.) Kriens (see below). The S. E. spur of the Giitsch is
called Gibraltar (pens., see p. 73).
Another attractive point in the neighbourhood of the town is
the *Drei Linden (1810'), to which a new road (PI. F, 1) leads in
about 20 min. from the Hofkirche. Or we may pass the (}letscher-
garten to the left, ascend the hill immediately to the right, and
beyond a quarry, reach (2/4 M.) the Capuchin Convent on the We-
semlin, where a guide-post beside the church indicates the path to
the top. The view embraces the environs of Lucerne and the Alps,
with the Titlis in the middle and the Finsteraarhorn and the
Schreckhorn in the distance to the right. The town itself, however,
is more picturesque when viewed from the Giitsch.
Fbom Lucerke to Keiens, 2V2 M., steam-tramway in 12 min., skirt-
ing the brawling Krienbach. — Kriens (1670' ; -Pilatus ; Linde), a considerable
manufacturing village, is situated in a fertile valley at the N. foot of Bit.
Pilatus. To the S., on the slope, is the chateau of Schauensee (1950'); to
the N. the Sonnenberg (to the Kurhaus, ^4 hr. ; sec above). The road as--
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LAKE OF LUCERNE. 25. Route. 77
cends the valley beyond Kriens to the Renggbach, whence a footpath leads
through wood to (I1/4 hr.) Herrgotts-wald ('2624'; "Sonne), an inexpensive
health-reaort in a picturesque situation, and to (1 hr.) Eigenthal (3375' ;
Inn), another cheap health-resort (hence to Schwarzenberg, V4 hr. ; see p. 127).
From Eigenthal a path ascends t>y the Rumligbach past the huts of
Btichsteg and Rothstock, and finally mounts steeply to the left to (IV2-2 hrs.)
the Briindlenalp (4985'; conip. p. 94), with the little Pilatus Lake (p. 94;
generally dry in summer). From this point the Widder/eld (6825') may
he ascended in IV2 hr. ; and a rough and not always distinct path leads
round the slopes of the Widderfeld and Gemsmattli and past the Kasielen-
alp to (11/2 hr.) the Hotel KUmsenhorn (p. 93). Neither expedition should
be attempted without a guide.
25. Lake of Lucerne.
Camp, also Map, p. 84.
Steamboat 6-7 times daily between Lucerne and Fliielen in 2s/4 hrs.,
express in 2'/4 hrs. (to Hertenstein 35 min., Weggis 45 min., Vitznau 1,
Buochs l'/4, Beckenried I'/a, Gersau IY4, Treib 2, Brunnen 2 hrs. 5 min.,
Rtitli 2 hrs. 12 min., Sisikon 2 hrs. 10 min., Islelen 2 hrs. 20 min., Bauen
2 hrs. 25 min., Tells-Platte 2'/2, Fliielen 2^4 hrs. ; the steamers do not all
touch at Hertenstein, Buochs, Treib, Riitli, Sisikon, and Tells -Platte,
while Bauen and Isleten are called at once a day only). Fare to Fliielen
3 fr. 65 or 2 fr. 60 c. ; return-tickets available for two days at a fare and
a half; season-tickets. still cheaper. Trunk 40-80 c, including embarcation
and landing. All the steamers, except the quick boat at 5.30 a.m., touch
at the railway-station of Lucerne after leaving the quay (comp. p. 73). Good
restaurants on board. Time-tables and useful maps of the lake to be had
at the steamboat-offices gratis.
The **Lake of Lucerne (1435'; Vierwaldstatter See, or 'Lake of
the Four Forest Cantons'), which is bounded by the 'forest cantons'
of Vri, Schwyz, Unterwalden , and Lucerne, is unsurpassed in
Switzerland, and even in Europe, in magnificence of scenery. Its
beautiful banks are also intimately associated with those historical
events and traditions which are so graphically depicted by Schiller
in his William Tell. The lake is nearly cruciform in shape, the bay
of Lucerne forming the head, the bays of Kiissnach and Alpnach
the arms, and those of Buochs and Uri the foot. Length from Lu-
cerne to Fliielen 23 M. , from Alpnach to Kiissnach at the ex-
tremities of the arms I21/2M. ; width 1/2-IV4M.; greatest depth 700'.
Rowing or Sailing Boats are seldom used by travellers, being badly
constructed and uncomfortable. Tariff at the inns on the lake. — The wind
on the lake is apt to change with extraordinary rapidity, and the boatmen
declare that it blows from a different quarter as each promontory is
rounded. The most violent is the Fohn (S. wind), which sometimes renders
theS. bay of the lake impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, and dangerous
even for steamboats. In fine weather the Bise QS. wind) usually prevails
on the bay of Uri from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and a gentle S. wind during
the rest of the day.
Soon after leaving Lucerne the steamer affords a strikingly pic-
turesque view of the town, with its towers and battlements. To
the left rises the Rigi, to the right Pilatus, and facing us the
Biirgenstock, the Buochser Horn, and the Stanser Horn ; to the left
of Pilatus, above the hills of Sachseln, the Wetterhorn, the Schreck-
horncr, the Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau gradually become visible,
78 Route 25. VITZNAU. Lake of
but the Finsteraarhorn is hidden. The small promontory to the
left, with a pinnacled villa, is the Meygenhorn. In front of it lies
Altstad ('old shore'), an islet planted with poplars, on which frag-
ments of an old custom-house are still to be seen.
Beyond the Meggenhorn the lake of Kiissnach opens to the
left, and the bay of Stansstad to the right, and we have now reach-
ed the central part ( ' Kreuztrichter ) of the cross formed by the lake.
In the distance to the left, Kiissnach (p. 95) is visible ; in the fore-
ground, Neu-Habsburg (p. 95). To the right the forest-clad Biirgen-
stock (3720'), with its hotel and railway, rises abruptly from the
water (see p. 91). From this part of the lake the Pilatus (p. 92)
is very striking. Its barren, rugged peaks, seldom free from cloud
or mist, frown grimly over the cheerful landscape , in marked con-
trast to the Rigi on the opposite bank , the lower slopes of which
are covered with gardens , fruit-trees , and houses , and the upper
with woods and green pastures.
Beyond the promontory of Tanzenberg , in a small bay to the left,
is the handsome Pension Hertenstein (9-10 fr.) ; facing us, in the
distance, peeps the double-peaked Scheerhorn (p. 114). Stat. Herten-
stein (Pens. Hertenstein, dependauce of the above, and reached
cither on foot through the park in 10, or by boat in 5 min.). Then —
Weggis — Hotels. =H6t.-Pens. du Lac, pens. 6-S fr.; *Lowe, R. 2,
D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. ; 'Post, at the steamboat-quay, small; -Pens. Belve-
dere & Villa KOhler, with garden, pens, from 6 fr. ; 'Hot. -Pens. Belle-
vuE, finely situated 84 M. to the W., 9-10 fr., adapted for a stay of some
time; Hot. -Pens. Pakadies.
Weggis, a thriving village in a very sheltered situation, fre-
quented as a health-resort , was formerly the usual landing-place
for the Rigi (comp. pp. 85, 87).
A road to the N. leads to (2 M. ; or a path to the right, passing the
church, in V2 br.) Greppen (p. 95). Between the road and the path (which
ascends for ','4 hr. at the schoolhouse of Weggis) rises the Rigiblick, a
grassy hill affording a fine survey of the lake. — Beautiful walk to the PI,
by the road skirting the lake, to the charmingly situated LUtzelau (Pens.,
5 fr.) and (3 M.) Yittnau. A new road leads on from Vitznau by the
Ohere Kase (fine view of the lake) to (1 hr.) Gersau and past the Kindli-
mord Chapel (p. 79) to (i'/^ hr.) Brunnen.
Nearing Vitznau, we observe on the hillside to the left the rail-
way-bridge across the Schnurtobel (p. 86), and high above it the
Hotel Rigi-First (p. 90).
Vitznau (* Hotel ^ Restaurant Rigibahn # Pension Kohler, R.,
L., & A. 31/2, B. 11/4, pens. 6-7 fr.; * Hotel-Pension Rigi, R. 2-21/2,
D. 3, pens. 5-7 fr. ; * Hotel-Pension Pfyffer, pens. 5-7 fr. ; Pension
Zimmermann zum Kreuz), prettily situated at the base of the Vitz-
nauer Stock (p. 79), is the terminus of the Rigi Railway (p. 85).
High above the village rises the precipitous Rothfluh, with the Wal-
disbalm, a stalactite grotto 330 yds. long (difficult of access).
Beyond Vitznau two rocky promontories, aptly called the Nasen
(noses), and perhaps once united, project far into the lake, apparently
terminating it , the one being a spur of the Rigi , the other of
Lucerne. GERSAU. 25. Rotite. 79
the Burgenstock (p. 91). Beyond the E. Nase the snowy pyramid
of the Todi (p. 63), and more to the left, ahove the Pragel, the
Glarnisch (p. 66) become visible. Beyond this strait the lake is
called the Buochser See, fromBtiochs (*Krone; Hirsch; *Restaura'nt
Kreuzgdrten), a village to the right, which was burned down by
the French in 1798. Above Buochs rise the Buochser Horn (p. 117)
and the E. slopes of the Biirgenstock. Diligence to Stans (p. 117)
thrice daily in 2/4 hr. Between Buochs and Beckenried (pretty walk
of 3/4 hr.) extensive operations have been carried out to regulate the
torrents descending from the Buochser Horn and the Schwalmis.
Beckenried or Beggenried (*Sonne, pens, from 6 fr.; *Mond,
R. & B. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr. ; *Nidwaldner Eof, pens. 6-8 fr. ;
AdLer), on the S. bank, where the delegates from the Four Forest
Cantons used to assemble. (There are two piers here : one near the
'Sonne' for the steamers to Fliielen , the other by the 'Mond' for
those to Lucerne.) In front of the church rises a fine old walnut-
tree. In the neighbourhood are several cement-factories and the
picturesque Riseten Waterfall.
One-horse carriage to Engelberg (p. 118) 18 fr., two-horse 30 fr. (from
Buochs 15 or 25 fr.); to Stans 6 or 12, Stansstad 8 or 15, Alpnach 11 or
18, Grafenort 12 or 20, Seelisberg 13 or 25, Schonegg 6 or 12 fr., and fee.
Fkom Beckenkied to Seelisbekg (23/4 hrs.). The road leads by the
P/4 hr.) charmingly situated "Pension Schonegg (water and whey-cure, pens.
6 fr.) to (1/4 hr.) the village of Emmellen (2590'; Post, Engel, both well
spoken of; Stern; pens, at all three 5 fr.); then through a somewhat
monotonous dale between the Stutzberg and Niederhauen (p. 80) past the
picturesque Seeli to the (13/4 hr.) Kurhaus Seelisberg (p. 80).
On the opposite bank, on a fertile strip of land between the
Vitznauer Stock and the Hochfluh, lies the pretty village of Gersau
(*H6t.-Pens. MiiUer, R. 2-4, D. 31/2, pens. from9fr. ; * Gersauer Hof ;
Hirsch ; Sonne ; *Zur Ilge, plain), in the midst of orchards, with
its broad -eaved cottages scattered over the hillside. It was an
independent canton down to 1817, when it was annexed to Canton
Schwyz. The village, being protected from cold winds, is a resort
of invalids. In the ravine behind it is a silk-spinning mill , and
on the mountain above is the Rigi-Scheidegg Hotel (p. 90).
The ascent of the ~Rigi- Hochfluh (5555'; in 3-3'/2 hrs.) from Gersau
along the Grat and via the Ziristock-Alp is very attractive. The last part
of the route has been improved (see p. 90). Thence to the Scheidegg,
IV2-2 hrs. — The Vilznauer Stock (4770') may be ascended in 2'/2 hrs.
from Gersau or Vitznau via Ober-Urmi; the last '/z hr's. climb is toilsome.
— From Gersau to (4'/2 M.) Brunnen (p. 81) a beautiful walk by the road
skirting the lake.
The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau is called Kind-
Umord ('infanticide') from the tradition that a poor fiddler killed
his starving child here by dashing it against the rock indicated by a
black cross. To the E. rise the bare peaks of the two Mythen, at the
base of which, 8 M. inland, lies Schwyz (p. 100); nearer is the church
of Ingenbohl, and in the distance to the right the Achselberg or Achs-
lenstock (7057'), with its crown of rocks resembling a castle.
The steamer now crosses to Treib (/n/i, rustic), in Canton Uri,
80 Route 25. SEELISBERG. Lake of
at the loot of the precipitous Sonnenberg, the landing-place for the
village of Seelisberg(2628'; *H6t. -Pens. Bellevue; Pens. Aschwanden,
behind the church, 5 fr., unpretending; Pens. Lowen) on the hill
above, to which a road leads in l'/4hr. through the orchards of
FoUiyen (one-horse carr. 5, two-horse 10, to the Kurhaus 0 or 12 fr.,
with fee of 2 fr.")- The more direct footpath ascends to the left
behind the inn (1 hr. ; stony but shady most of the way). By the
Chapel of Maria-Sonnenbery (2772'), 12 min. from the church of
Seelisberg, is the Pension Grulli(p-lix.^^ and 100 paces farther on
is the little Hotel Mythenstein, beside which is the *Kurhaus
Sonnenberg-Seelisberg (three houses, with 300 beds ; pens. 10-11,
A. 1/2 f'Oi ^ sheltered spot with pure mountain air, and a favourite
health-resort. The terrace in front of the Kurhaus commands a
beautiful *View of the lake of Uri lying far below and of the sur-
rounding mountains from the Mythen to the Uri-Rothstock.
An attractive walk may be taken to (1/2 hr.) the 'Schwendifluh, by a
route diverging to the left from the Bauen road (guide-post) about 1^ 4 M.
to the S. of the Kurhaus. The view from the top of the perpendicular
rocks, the Teufelsmiinster of Schiller's 'Wilhelm Teir (Act. IV., Sc. 1), is
highly picturesque.
Beautiful view from the Kcinzeli (in the wood to the right at the S.
end of the Kurhaus, V2 br.), over the lake and the plain as far as the
Weissenstein. — About 20 min. to the S. W. of the Kurhaus lies the picturesque
little Seelisberger See, or '■SeeW ('little lake', 2470'; with bath-house 50 c.)
on the precipitous N. side of the "Niederbauen, or Seelisburger Kulm (6316';
guide 5 fr. and fee), which may be ascended from the Kurhaus in 3V2-4,
from Beroldingen in 3, or from Emmetten in 3'/-2 hrs. (see below). Starting
from the Kurhaus, we follow the Emmetten road towards the S.W., passing
the Seeli ; after V2 hr. we ascend to the left towards the base of the Bauen,
by a steep and narrow path, which is particularly uncomfortable after
rain. Part of the ascent, which is suitable for mountaineers only, is through
wood. — The ascent from Beroldingen (see p. 81 ; guide, Peter Bissig), via
the Alps of Wychel, Haiti, Weid, Egglen, and Eigstlerhoden, or from Alp
Weid, to the left, round the Kulm and passing Alp Laui, is steep, toil-
some, and giddy (3 hrs. in all ; for adepts only). — The ascent is easier
from Emmetten (p. 79; experts may dispense with a guide). The shortest
way (3 hrs.) leaving the village at the S. end, follows for a short distance
the right bank of the Kohlthal brook, and then passes between some
houses; after 20 min. we turn to the right and follow the tolerably good
and distinct path towards the middle of the rocky arete at the W. end
of the mountain. From the (IV4 hr.) top we enjoy a fine view of the
lake of Lucerne. Thence to the left along the ridge in I'/z hr. to the
summit. — An easier route, but 1/2 l»r- longer, diverges to the left at
the church (l'/4 hr. from the Kurhaus) and ascends the Kohlthal to a gate
near some chalets (I hr.). After 2 min. more we cross the bridge to the
left, and ascend by a good but steep zigzag path for 20 min., at first over
a grassy slope, and then entering the wood to the left; 7 min., a bridge
over a cleft; 10 min., a chalet (the path leading to the right of the hill
with a cross). We ascend the slopes beyond the chalet to (1/4 hr.) a gate;
for 12 min. more we walk towards the Bauen, visible to the E., and then
descend a little to a second chalet. Farther on we pass to the right of
a stone stable on the hill; 40 min., third chalet (rustic tavern); lastly in
zigzags, the best route being round the Bauen, to the pole on the top in
40 min. more. Magnificent view of the entire Lake of Lucerne from Lu-
cerne to Fliielen, of the Uri - Rothstock, the Bristenstock, Tcidi, Scheer-
born, Windgallen, etc., and of the Reussthal as far as Amsteg. The dis-
tant view, however, is inferior to that from the Rigi. Early in the
morning nearly the whole ascent from Emmetten is in shade.
Lucerne. BRUNNEN. 25. Route. 81
Those who desire to walk from Seelisberg to Bauen, on Lake Uri, and
thence to cross the lake to Tell's Platte or Fliielen , go straight on from
Sonnenberg (flnger-post ; the road to the Schwendifluh leads to the left) to
(3/4 hr.) the little chateau of Beroldingen (beautiful view) and thence by a
safe, though steep and rather uncomfortable path to (1/2 hr.) Bauen (Tell,
poor). Boat from Bauen to Tellsplatte 2, Riitli 3, Fluelen 4 fr. (higher
charges at the 'Tell'). — Path to the ('/s hr.) Riitli., see p. 82.
Opposite Treib, on the E. bank, lies the large village of —
Brunnen. — *Waldstatter Hof, on the lake, with baths, R., L.,
& A. 3-5, D. 4, pens. 8-11 (in spring, 7-9 fr.); *H6t.-Pens. Abler, -Hot.-Pens.
HiRSCH, at the steamboat quay, R., L., & A. 2-3, 'pens'. 7-iO fr.; "Rossli,
Bkdnnerhof, both near the quay, pens. 6 fr. ; 'Hot. -Pens. Aufdermaub,
6 min. from the lake, pens. 8-10 fr. ; 'Pens. (Putsch, with fine view, un-
pretending; "Pens. DH Lac, ','4^. to the W. of the village, with lake-baths,
pens. 5-5'/2 fr. (R. 1^/4 fr. extra); *Hot.-Pens. Bellevue (0 fr.) and "Pens.
Mtthenstein (13 fr.), both on the Axenstrasse, close to the lake; Pens.
Lagler, on the Gersau road, with restaurant; Hot. Bahnhof, Euw, Rosen-
GARTEN, 'Treihof, "Sonne, Rutli. and others, homely (pens, about 5 fr.).
— Restaurant Zur Drossel, near the quay.
Rowing Boats: to Treib and back with one boatman 1 fr., with two
2 fr.; Riitli (and back) 21/2 or 4, Tellsplatte 3 or 6, Rutli and Tellsplatte
5 or 8 fr.
Baths (warm and lake-baths) at the Waldstatterhof (lake bath and
towel, 50 c). — Good and cheap wood-carving at Leu(hold''s, by the steam-
boat-pier, and at Aufderntauer''s., on the Axenstrasse.
English Church Service at the Waldstatter llof.
Brunnen, the port of Canton Schwyz, a station on the St. Gott-
hard Railway (p. 101), and one of the most beautiful places on the
lake, is partly situated in a flat valley uear the mouth of the
Muota. The old Susthaus, or goods -magazine, is decorated with
quaint frescoes.
The Glitsch (1700'; Pension), a height behind Brunnen, overlooks the
two arms of the lake and the pretty valley of Schwyz. — Shady walks
in the neighbouring woods. — From Brunnen to Morschach a good car-
riage-road (in shade in the morning) ascends in 1 hr. from the Axenstrasse.
The shady footpath which diverges at the (3/4 M.) guide-post to the left
cuts otT a long curve. 50 min. 'Hotel Axenfels (2065'; R. from 2V2, D. 4,
pens. 7 fr.), with gardens and a fine view. A few min. farther on is
the charmingly situated hamlet of Morschach (2155' ; ~ Hot. -Pens. Frohnalp,
with gardens, pens, from 5 fr.; 'Pens. Bettschart., moderate; Pens. Degen-
balm, beautifully situated on an eminence -'30' above the village, pens, from
5 fr.). The road forks immediately behind the Hotel Frohnalp, the right
branch leading via Ober-ScliiJnenbuch to (4i/2 M.) Schwyz. while the left
branch ascends past the Pens. Riitlihlick (fine view) to (10 min.) the 'Grand
Hotel Axenstein (233u'; R. 3-5. D. 4, pens. 7 fr., R. extra, less in June
and Sept. ; English Church Service), splendidly situated on the Brcindli,
with a magnificent 'Survey of both arms of the lake. Large covered
promenade and beautiful shady grounds close to the hotel, containing
numerous erratic blocks and interesting traces of glacier-action. Strangers
are admitted to the park , but if residing at the Hotel Axenfels or at
Morschach only by special permission. Besides the road, there is a path
from the Giitsch to the hotel, for the most part in shade (^/^ hr.). Omni-
buses run between the Axenstein Hotel and Brunnen (50 min., 2 fr.; one-
horse carr. 5, two-horse 10 fr).
The Stoos (4242'), the N. spur of the Frohnalp {'Kurhaus, well man-
aged, R., L., & A. 31/2, B. 11/4, pens 8-12, in June and Sept., 7-10 fr. ; Pens.
Balmberg, 5-6 fr.), another good point of view, with varied walks, is
reached by a road (in shade in the morning for most of the way) from
Morschach in i?ji hr. (carr. and pair from Brunnen in 2'/4 hrs., 20 fr. ;
there and back 25-30 fr., with one horse, from Brunnen 15, ridiug-liorse
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 6
82 Route 25. LAKE OF URI. Lake of
10, porter 5 fr.). — The 'Frohnalpstock (6305'; small Inn. ten beds),
I'/'i lir. to tlic S.W. of the Stoos, reached by a rough path (milk at a chalet
halfway), aftbrds a magnificent view of the lakes of Liicerne and Zug. The
panorama of mountains is, however, inferior to that from the Kieder-
bauen. — A footpath leads from the Stoos to (IV'2 br.) Ried (p. 65) in the
Muoictlhal, at first traversing meadows, but beyond the Htousbach descend-
ing in steep zig/ags through wood to the bridge over the Muota.
Other excursions from Brunnen : by the St. Gotthard Railway to
(12 min.) Schwyz - Seewen, and then by boat (in 25 min. from Seewen)
to the island of Schwanau in the Lake of Lowerz (p. lOOj; to the Muota-
thal (p. 65) via Ibach, on the left bank of the Muota, and tiack by the right
bank; by the Axenstrasse (see below) to Fliielen (9 M. ; best by carr., the
road lieing shadeless after 10 a.m.; to Fliielen with one horse 8 fr.); to
the Kindlimord Chapel (p. 79) and Gersau (p. 79); to the Riitli (see below);
to Seelisberg (p. 80); to the Jlythen (p. 101), etc.
At Brunnen begins the S. arm of the lake, called the Timer See
or *Lake of TJri. The mountains now rise very abruptly , and the
lake narrows. Lofty peaks, often snow -clad, peep through the
gorges which open at intervals. By the sharp angle which juts into
the lake from the W. bank rises the Mytenstein, a pyramid of
rock, 80' high, bearing an inscription in huge gilded letters to the
memory of Schiller, the 'Bard of Tell'. On the N. side is an in-
scription to a young Swiss officer, who accidentally lost his life here.
A little farther on, below Seelisberg (p. 80), and 8 min. above the lake,
are the three springs of the Rutli, or Grutli, trickling from an arti-
ficial wall of stone, in the midst of an open space planted with
trees. This spot, with the adjacent timber-built guard-house in the
old Swiss style (refreshments) and pretty grounds, belongs to the
Confederation. A block of granite, 10 ft. high, with bronze me-
dallions, commemorates the author and the'composer of the Song
of Rutli.
On this plateau, on the night of 7th Kov., 1307, thirty-three men, from
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and entered into a solemn league
for the purpose of driving their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates
that these three fountains sprang up on the spot where the three confederates,
Werner Statiffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, Erny (Arnold) an der Halden of
Melchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter Fiirst of Attinghausen in Uri, stood
when the oath was taken. — A good and shaded path ascends in 1 hr.
from the Riitli to the Kttrhaus Seelisberg (p. 80). Small boat from Brun-
nen to Riitli, see above; an excursion by boat (3-4 fr.) frum Treib is also
attractive.
On the E. bank of the lake runs the almost level *Axenstrasse,
leading from Brunnen to (9 M.) Fliielen, and remarkable for the
boldness of its construction , being to a great extent hewn in the
rock. Below, parallel with, or above the road, runs the St. Gott-
hard Railway (p. 101), skirting the lake in a succession of tunnels
and cuttings.
About 1/4 hr. after leaving Brunnen the steamer touches at Sisi-
kon (Pens. Urirothstock , unpretending), at the entrance to the
narrow Riemenstaldenthal (p. 65).
From the hamlet of (i'^/2'^U) Riemenstalden (3410'; *Inn), the following
summits may be ascended: the Rophaien (6830'; 2V2 hrs.), commanding
a fine view of the Lake of Lucerne; the 'Rossstock (8()80' ; 3V2-4 hrs.),
also with a charming view (these two ascents present no difficulty, comp.
Lucerne. FLUELEN. 25. Route. 83
p. 102); the Liedernen or Kaiserstock (8255'; 4-4V2 hrs., with guide), to \>c.
attempted only by experienced niotmtaineers not subject to dizziness. —
Via the Katzenzagel to the Jthiotaihal, see p. 65.
We next reach stat. Tell's Platte (^Restaurant, with baths, at
the landing-place), 8 niin. above which, on the Axenstrasse, is tha
* Hotel- Pension zur Tellsptatte (j^ens. 6fr.^, with pleasure-grounds
and a charming view. A little to the S. of the landing-place is a
ledge of rock at the base of the Axenberg, where, shaded by over-
hanging trees and washed by the lake, stands the romantic Tell's
Chapel, rebuilt in 1880, and adorned with four frescoes by Stiickel-
berg of Bale (protected by a railing on the side next the lake ;
path to it from the pier in 1 min.). It is said to have been origi-
nally erected by Canton L'ri in 1388 on the spot where the Swiss
liberator sprang out of Gessler's boat. On Friday after Ascension
Day mass is performed here at 7 a.m., and a sermon preached, the
service being attended by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood in
gaily decorated boats. Near the chapel the lake is upwards of 700'
deep. The grandest part of the Axenstrasse is between Tell's Platte
Inn and Fliielen (21/2 M.), where it pierces the curiously contorted
limestone strata of the Axenfluh, 360' above the lake, by means of
a tunnel. Beyond the chapel, Fliielen (which the steamer reaches
in 1/4 hr. more) becomes visible. The scenery of this part of the lake
is very striking. Opposite the chapel, on the W. bank, lies the
hamlet of Bai^en (Tell; p. 81), and, farther on, the dynamite-factory
oflsleten, at the mouth of the Isenthal. On the saddle between the
two peaks of the Uri-Rothstock, which rise above the Isenthal, lies
a glacier, distinctly visible from the steamer; to the left of it the
Gitschen (8386') rises abruptly from the lake, with its summit re-
sembling a castle. Beyond Fliielen the Reussthal appears to be closed
by the pyramidal Bristenstock, with the Kleine and Grosse Windgdlle
to the left of it (p. 114).
Fluelen, Ital. Flora (*Kreuz, R., L., & A. 3, B. I1/4 fr. ; Tell,
R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; *Adler; Gambrinus, all near the quay; Stern;
Rail. Restaurant ; lake-baths on the Axenstrasse, '/■2 M- off), is the
port of Uri , and a station (close to the pier) on the St. Gotthard
Railway (p. 101). Beyond the church is the small chateau oi Rudenz
which once belonged to the Attinghausen family. The Reuss, which
falls into the lake between Fliielen and Seedorf, has been 'canalized'
here to prevent inundations (1/2 hr.'s walk , or 1/4 hr. by boat to
its influx).
The Isenthal (see Map, p. 118) may be reached from Fliielen or
Altdorf on foot in 3 lirs. via Seedorf (p. 83), by a path skirting the
lake and ascending to the site of the Fruttkapelle (2188'j, with a pictur-
esque view, where tlie path turns to the left into the valley ; or by the
steamer from Fliielen (starting at 1.20 p.m.), which touches at Isleten daily ;
or by small boat from Fliielen; or, best of all, by boat from Tell's Platte
in >/< hr. (2-4 fr.). From Bauen (see above) a pleasant path, affording
splendid views of the lalce, ascends round the slope of the Furkelen
direct to Isenthal in I'/e hr. — The path ascending from Isleten unites
at the Frutlkapelle with the path from Seedorf. About 1 hr. from Isleten
G*
84 Route 25. ISENTHAL.
we reach the prettily situated village of Isenthal (2452' ; Qctsser^s Inn,
rustic but clean ; guides, Joh. Imfaiiger and Mich, and joli. Oasser), at
the S. base of the precipitous Oberbauen or Schi/ngrat (6955'), which may
be ascended hence via the Banberg in 3'/2-4 hrs. (recommended to adepts;
guide necessary). The valley divides here into the Grossthal to the right
and the Kleintltal to the left. — Through the Geossthai-, in which lies the
Alpine hamlet of (2/4 hr.) St. Jakob (3215'), we may either proceed to the
W., passing over the Schonegg Pass (6315'), between the HoJie Brisen
(7895') and the Kaiserstuhl (7877'), to Ober-Rickenbach and (51/2 hrs.) Wolfen-
schiessen (p. 117); or to the S.W., over the Eothgratli (8420'), betv^een the
Engelberg-Rothstock and the Hasensiock, to (10 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 118).
The Engelberg-Rothslock (9252') may be ascended without difficulty from
the Rothgriitli in 3/4 hr. (comp. p. 119). Via the Jocldi and the Biihlalp
to (^^l>-^ hrs.) Nieder-Rickenbach, see p. 117.
Through the Kleinthal leads the usual route to the summit of the
Uri-Rothstock (6V2-7 hrs.-, not easy; guide 15, or with descent to Engel-
berg 25 fr.). A fatiguing path leads to the Neienalp and (2 hrs.) Musen-
alp (4885') ; then a toilsome ascent of precipices of slate-rock to the
top of the Kessel (8458'); lastly, up the Mittelgrdili, or round it towards
the E., across the Kleiiitlial Qlacier and up the arete separating it from
the Bliimlisalp Glacier, to the summit of the *Uri-Rothstock (9620'). An
easier, but longer route through the Grossthal, passing St. Jakob (see
above) and the Schlossfelsen , ascends by a steep and rough path to the
(3 hrs.) Hangbaum-Alp (5660'), grandly situated (fine cascades), where the
night is spent (hay-ljeds); thence (starting early in the morning) over
pastures , loose stones, and along the N. edge of the Blumlisdlpfirn to tlie
ridge between the Grossthal and Kleinthal ; and lastly up the arete towards
the W. to the summit (3-4 hrs. from Hangbaum), which is usually free from
snow in summer. The mountain-group which culminates in the Uri-Roth-
stock and the Brunnistock (96S3'), like the Titlis, is almost perpendicular
on the E. and S.E. sides (towards the Gitschenthal and Surenen) , and is
composed of gigantic and fantastically contorted limestone rocks. The view
from the summit is exceedingly grand : to the S. the chain of the Alps, with
the Sentis at their E. extremity; at our feet, 8000' below, the Lake of
Lucerne; to the N.E. and N. the Rigi , Pilatus , and the Entlebuch Mts.,
the lower hills of N. Switzerland , and the plains of S. Germany. — The
descent (an easy and attractive glacier -expedition) may be made by the
Bliimlisalp Glacier, the Schlossstock-Liicke, and the Rothstock-Liicke to the
(3 hrs.) Plankenalp Club-hut, and to (3 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 118).
26. The Eigi.
The mountain Railways which ascend the Rigi from Vitznan and from
Arth are now used by the vast majority of travellers who visit this
justly famous and most admirable point of view. The journey is further
facilitated by the numerous trains and steamboats which connect Arth
and Vitznau with places both near and distant, so that a visit to the
Rigi and back may now be accomplished easily from Lucerne or Ziirich
in one day. The ascent from Vitznau, which is more convenient for many
travellers, affords beautiful views all the way, while that from Ai'th offers
the advantage that the view bursts upon the spectator far more strikingly
as he approaches the top.
Both lines are constructed on the rack-and-pinion system. The gauge
is of the usual width. Between the rails runs the toothed rail, which
consists of two rails placed side by side and connected with cross-bars at
regular intervals. Into the spaces thus formed works a cog-wheel under
the locomotive, which is always placed below the passenger-car. The
maximum gradient of the Vitznau line is 1:4, and of the Arth line 1:5.
Each train on the Vitznau line consists of one carriage only, with 54
seats, not divided into classes, and, on the Arth line, of two carriages
holding 40 persons each. The average speed is 4-6 M. per hour. — The
ichraml u Sticl. ■.' J. li
hil4il.
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HiucV- Vafrjitrel-,! I-ii
RIGI. ■26. Route. 85
Scheidegg Railway (p. OOj is a lino of the ordinary kind, biit the loco-
motives are specially adapted for mounting gradients.
The Footpaths to the top of the Rigi are now very little used , but
the Descent to Weijgis on foot (2-2V2 hrs. ; see p. 87) is recommended.
Hotels. On the Kulm, 'Schreiber's Rigi-Kulm Hotels (three houses ;
the two higher and older being now dependances of the lower; Restau-
rant on the ground-floor of the latter); high charges, R,, L., <fe A. 6-7,
I). 5 fr. — On the Rigi-Staffel , where all the routes converge , 1/2 hr.
below the Kulm, "Hot. -Pens. Rigi-Staffel, R., L., <fc A. from S'/s, D. 3i/-j,
pens. 8-9 fr., adapted for a stay of some time; 'Hotel Staffel-Kulm and
Hotel Rigibahn, both immediately above the station, moderate. — The
'KuRHAUS Rigi-Kaltbad (p. 86), '/z hr. below the StafTel, to the W., is a
large, first-class establishment, high charges, pens. 12-18 fr. (hot and cold
baths; Engl. Church Service); 'Bellevhe, below stat. Kaltbad, pens, from 7,
D. 31/2 fr. — "Hotel Rigi-First, on the Scheidegg railway (p. 90), 74 hr.
from the Kaltbad, pleasant for some stay, pens, from 10th .Tuly to 10th
Sept. 11-15 fr. , earlier or later in the season 9-12 fr. — "Schwert and
*SoNNE, by the Klosterli (p. 87), R. & A. 2V2-3, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. —
Pens. Riedboden, between the Klosterli and the Staffel , 4 fr. — *H6t.-
Pens. Rigi-Felsenthor (p. 87), 10 min. from stat. Uomifi-Felsenf/ior
(p. 86) , pens. 6-7 fr. — Hotel Rigi-Unterstetten, near stat. Unterstetten
(p. 90), plain, pens. 51/2 fr. — *Kdrhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 90; proprietor,
Dr. Slierliii-Hanser), R. 2-5, D. 4, B. IV4, S. 2V2, pens, in July and August
7-12, in June and Sept. 7-10 fr. (Engl. Ch. Serv.).
The **Kigi (5905', or 4470' above the Lake of Lucerne ; origin-
ally 'die Rigi', i.e. the strata), a group of mountains about 25 M. in
circumference, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz,
is chiefly composed of conglomerate (p. 100), while the N. and W.
sides belong to the meiocene formation. The N. side is precipitous,
but the S. side consists of broad terraces and gentle slopes, covered
with fresh green pastures which support upwards of 4000 head of
cattle, and planted towards the base with fig, chestnut, and almond
trees. Owing to its isolated situation, the Rigi commands a most ex-
tensive view, 300 M. in circumference, and unsurpassed for beauty
in Switzerland. The mountain was known to a few travellers
during the latter part of the 18th cent., but it was not till after the
peace of 1815 that it became a resort of tourists. In 1816 a very
modest inn was erected on the Kulm by voluntary subscription, and
in 1848 it was superseded by the oldest of the three houses on the
summit. Since then the number of inns has been steadily increas-
ing, and the Rigi is now one of the most popular of Swiss resorts.
From Vitznau to the Rigi-Kulm, 472 M., Mountain Railway
in 1 hr. 20 min., fare 7 fr. (to Kaltbad 472, Staffel 6 fr.); descent also
1 hr. 20 min.. fore 3V2 fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free, overweight being
charged for. First-class return-tickets from Lucerne to the Rigi via Vitz-
nau 1372 fr. ; Sunday tickets 7 fr. ; season-tickets 30 per cent less. Return-
tickets do not permit of an alternative return-route; e.g. holders of tickets
from Vitznau may not return to Arth, or vice versa.
Vitznau, see p. 78. The station is close to the quay. The
train (views to the left) ascends gradually through the village (1 :
15), and aftersvards more rapidly (1 : 4), skirting the precipitous
slopes of the Dossen. A *View of the lake is soon disclosed, becom-
ing grander as wo ascend. Opposite us first appears the dark Biir-
genstock, then the Stanserhorn, Pilatns, and Liirernc. Farther up,
80 Route -26. RIGI. Kaltbad.
the Alps of Uri, Eiigclberj^, and Bern come in siglit above the lower
mountains. The train (20 mln. after starting! penetrates a tunnel
82 yds. long, crosses the Schnurtobel, a ravine 75' deep, by a bridge
borne by two iron pillars, and soon reaches the watering and passing
station of Freibergen (3333'), beyond which the line is double. Stat.
Romiti-Felsenthor (3890'; comp. p. 87) and (54 min. from Yitznau) —
23/4M. Kaltbad (4700') ; to the left is the large Kurhaus (p. 85),
■with its covered promenade, a health-resort on a plateau sheltered
from the N. and E. winds.
A path leads through a narrow opening in the rock, to the left of the
hotel, to (5 min.) St. Michael's Chapel, the walls of which are hung with
numerous votive tablets. One of these on the left side records that two
pious sisters sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the
district in the time of King Albert , and built the chapel. The spring
(42° Fahr.) which bubbles forth from the rock adjoining the chapel was
formerly called the 'Schwesternborn'' in memory of the two sisters.
A path among the blocks of conglomerate near the chapel, and after-
wards traversing park-like grounds, leads to the (V4 br.) 'Kanzeli (4773'J,
a pavilion on a projecting rock, commanding an admirable view of the
snow-mountains, and of the plain towards the N. with its numerous lakes,
similar to that from the Slaffel, but with a more picturesque foreground.
— A path leads hence to the StafTel in the same time as from the Kalt-
bad (50 min.), ascending to the right as far as the point where the S. part
of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and following the crest of the
mountain until it joins the path from the Kaltbad, at the (Vshr.) Stafl'elhohe.
Railway from the Kaltbad to the Scheidegg, see p. 90.
In 5 min. more the train reaches stat. Staff elhohe ; then ascends
to the left, round the Rigi-Rothstock (^ieehelow^, In 9 min. to (4M.)
Rigi-Staffel (5262'), the junction of the Arth line (see below).
The *Rigi-Rothstock (5455'), 'A ^^- *o *lie S.W., affords a very pictur-
esque survey of the central part of the Lake of Lucerne, which is not vis-
ible from the Kulm. A clear view is often enjoyed from this point while
the Kulm is enveloped in dense fog. The sunset is said to be sometimes
seen in greater perfection from the Rothstock than from the Kulm , but
the sunrise should certainly be witnessed from the latter.
The railway (here parallel with the Arth line) now ascends steeply
to the Kulm (in 7 min. ; a walk of 1/2 ^r.), skirting the precipices
on the N. side of the hill. 41/2 M. Rigi-Kulm (5741'), see p. 88.
Fkom Arth to THB Rigi-Ktjlm, 7M., Mountain Railway inlV2hr.,
fare 8fr. 30 (to the Klostevli 5 fr. 50, StafTel 7fr. 40c.; from Arth-Goldau, on
the St. Gotthard Railway, to theKulm in lV4hr.,fare8fr.); descent inlV2hr.,
fare 4 fr. 30 c. ; only 10 lbs. of luggage free. Season-tickets 50 per cent less.
Arth (1345'; Hail, liestaurant), see p. 95. As far as Goldau the
line is of the ordinary kind. The train ascends gradually to Ober-
Arth (1490'), passes through the MuUefluh Tunnel and under the
St. Gotthard Railway, and reaches (IV2 M.) Arth-Goldau (1683' ;
Restaurant^], a station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 100), where the
toothed-wheel system begins, and -where we change our direction
(Seats should if possible be secured at Arth on the left side, that
farthest from the waiting-room.) The Rigi line traverses part of
the scene of the Goldau landslip (p. 100), crosses the Schwyz road,
and describes a wide curve to the W.; then, ascending more rapidly,
it skirts the slope at the foot of the Scheidegg and reaches (2^/4 M.)
Klosterli. RIGI. 26. Route. 87
Stat. Krabel (2507'), where tlie engine is 'watered'. Farther on,
ascending 1' in 5', we skirt the precipitous Krdbelwand , where
the construction of the line presented much difficulty, and obtain
a fine view of the valley and lake of Lowerz , with the island of
Schwanau, the Mythen near Schwyz, the Rossberg and scene of the
great landslip, and the Lake of Zug. Beyond the Rothfluh Tunnel
we are carried through a picturesque wooded valley, and across the
Rothfluhbach, to the passing-station Fruttli (3780'). Still ascending
rapidly , the train traverses the Pfedernwald , crosses the Dossen-
hach and (beyond the Pfedernwald Tunnel') the Schildbach, and
reaches (5 M. ; IV4 hr. from Arth) —
Stat. Klosterli (4262'), lying in a basin enclosed by the Rigi-
Kulm, the Rothstock, and the First. The 'Klosterli' is a small Ca-
puchin monastery and hospice, with the pilgrimage-chapel of Maria
zum Schnee, founded in 1689 and rebuilt in 1712, and the inns al-
ready mentioned (p. 85). The chapel is much visited by pilgrims,
especially on 5th Aug. and 6th Sept. ; and on Sundays there is mass
with a sermon for the herdsmen. This spot has no view, but is
sheltered, and the air is often quite clear while the Kulm, Staffel, and
Scheidegg are shrouded in mist. Walk from the Klosterli to the Rigi-
First 20 min. , Unterstetten 1/2 ^^-i to ^^^ Staffel, the Rothstock, or the
Schild 3/4, to the Dossen or Kulm 11/4 hr., to the Scheidegg 1^/4 hr.
At (61/4 M.) Stat. Eigi-Staffel (p. 8G) a strikingly beautiful
view is suddenly disclosed towards the W. and N. (comp. p. 84).
From this point to the (7 M.) Rlgi-Kulm, see p. 86.
Foot and Bridle Paths to the Rigi (comp. p. 85). From Weggis (p. 78) a
bridle-path (81/4 hrs.) , which cannot be missed (finger-post 5 min. from
the landing-place), winds at first through productive orchards, the fruit
of which is frequently offered for sale. It crosses the track of a mud-
stream which descended from the mountain in 1795, taking a fortnight to
reach the lake. (IV4 hr.) HeiUc/kreuz-CapeUe ; (}/■> hr.) "Hdtel-Pension Felsen-
thor (p. 85), near the Hochstein or Felsent/tor , sometimes called the Kcis-
bissen , an arch formed of two huge masses of conglomerate, on which
rests a third block. iSiat. Romiti, a little higher up, see p. 86.) The path
runs parallel to the railway part of the way. (8/4 hr.) Kaltbad, see p. 86.
This route commands beautiful views of the lake and mountains, and is
especially recommended for the descent (comp. p. 85).
From Kussnach (p. 95) a bridle-path (3'/4 hrs.). The path diverges
to the right by a small shrine at the N. end of the village, skirting the
brook, which it crosses near a large new house ; >/2 hr., ruins of a burned
house; at the finger-post 'auf die Rigi' we turn to the left; 20 min., Ross-
weid, where the rock bears a cross to the memory of a man killed by
lightning in 1738 (view over the N. part of the Lake of Zug); then through
wood (for 20 min.) and a fern-clad tract (view of the Lakes of Sempach
to the left, and Baldegg to the right). (1/4 hr.) Vordere Seeboden-Alp (3372';
Kurhaus, rustic and dear), on which, at the Heiligkreuz, our path unites
with those from Immensee and TelTs Chapel ; 18 min., Iliiiiere Seeboden-Alp.
Then a steep zigzag ascent of l'/4 hr. to Rigi-Staffel (p. 86).
From Immjsnsee (p. 95) a bridle-path (3'/4 hrs.). After '/s M. we reach
the Kussnach and Arth road at the inn '■ Zur Eiche'' (p. 95); fifty paces to
the left, V)y the inn '■ Zur Ilge\ the Rigi path ascends to the right to the
(13/4 hr.) Vordere Seeboden-Alp (see above). Or we may follow the Kiissnach
road for '/n M. more to TelVs Chapel (p. 95), and ascend thence to the left
by a path which joins the other on the (Vi hr.) Langegg-Alp ('2020').
88 Route 26. RIGI. Kulm.
From Greppen (p. 95) , on the E. bank of the Kiissnach arm of the
Lake of Lucerne, another good bridle-path leads to the Rigi-Kanzeli (p. 8G)
in 2 hrs. and to the Kulm in S'/z hrs.
The Rigi-Knlm(5905'), a grassy peak, the highest and northern-
most point of the Rigi, descends abruptly on the N. to the Lake of
Zug, while on the S.W. side it joins that part of the mountain which
encloses the basin of the Klosterli and extends to the Scheidegg.
At the top rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels (p. 85) stand about
130 paces below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds.
The Kulm almost always presents a busy scene, but is most
thronged in the morning and evening. The sunset is always the
chief attraction. A performer on the Alpine horn blows the 'retreat'
of the orb of day, after which the belvedere is soon deserted.
Half-an-hour before sunrise , the Alpine horn sounds the re-
veille. All is again noise and bustle ; the crowded hotels are for
the nonce without a tenant ; and the summit is thronged with an
eager multitude , enveloped in all manner of cloaks and mantles.
Unfortunately a perfectly cloudless sunrise is a rare event.
A faint streak in the E., which gradually pales the brightness
of the stars, heralds the birth of day. This insensibly changes to
a band of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak becomes tinged with
a roseate blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon grad-
ually melt away; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal
themselves; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun
bursts from behind the mountains in all its majesty, flooding the
superb landscape with light and warmth.
**View. The first object which absorbs our attention is the stu-
pendous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (conip. the
Panorama). The chain begins in the far E. with the Senlis in Can-
ton Appenzell , over or near which the first rays of the rising sun
appear in summer. Nearer the Rigi rises the huge snowy crest of
the Gldrnisch; then the Todi, in front of which are the Clariden,
and to the right the double peak of the Scheerhorn ; next, the broad
Windgcille , immediately opposite , and the sharp pyramid of the
Bristenstock , at the foot of which lies Amsteg on the St. Gotthard
road; then the Blackenstock and the Uri-Rothstock , side by side,
both so near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished ;
next, the serrated SpanniJrter, and more to the right the TitUs, the
highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by Its vast
mantle of snow. The eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, crown-
ing the landscape with their magnificent peaks clad with perpet-
ual snow. To the extreme left is the Finsteraarhorn. the loftiest
of all (14,026'); adjacent to it the Schreckhurner , the three white
peaks of the Wetterhorn, the Monch, the Eiger v/ith its perpendicu-
lar walls of dark rock on the N. side, and the Jungfrnu. To the W.
tower the jagged peaks of the sombre Pilatus, forming the extreme
outpost of the Alps in this direction. — Towards the North the
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Kulm. RIGI. 26. Route. 89
entire Lfifce ofZug is visible, with the roads leadings to Arth, and the
villages of Zug and Cham. To the left of the Lake of Zug, at the
foot of the Rigi, stands TeU's Chapel^ midway between Immensee
and Kiissnach , a little to the left of a white house ; then, separa-
ted from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiissnach
arm of the Lake of Lucerne ; more to the W. Lucerne with its crown
of battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne
is seen almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme me-
andering through it like a silver thread ; the Reuss is also visible
at places. More distant are the Luke of Sempach , the W. side of
which is skirted by the railway to Bale, and the lakes of Baldegg and
Hallwyl. Towards the West and North-West the horizon is bound-
ed by the Jura Mts., above which peep some of the crests of the
Vosges. — To the North, but to the left of the Lake of Zug, the
handsome buildings of the former Abbey of Muri are visible , be-
yond which rises the castle of Uabsburg; in the distance the Black
Forest with its highest peaks , the Feldberg (to the right) and the
Belchen (to the left). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the crest of
the Albis with the Veiliberg, which nearly conceals the Lake of Zu-
rich; the long cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of
Zurich are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the ba-
saltic cones of Hohenhowen and Hohenstoffeln (close together) and
the Hohentwiel in Swabia. Towards the East, behind the N. slope
of the Rossberg, a glimpse is obtained of the Lake of Aegeri, on the
S. bank of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten (p. 98).
Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Rossberg , the S. slope of
which was the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip (p. 100).
Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi lies the
Lake of Lowerz with its two little islands ; beyond it, the town of
Schwyz, at the foot of the bald heights of the Mythen, overtopped
by the imposing Gldrnisch. To the right opens the Muotathal^ cel-
ebrated in military annals. To the South-East and South the
different heights of the Rigi form the foreground: viz. the Hochfluh
(below it the Rothfiuh\ Scheidegg , Dossen , and Schild, at the foot
of which lies the Klosterli. To the left of the Schild part of the
Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenricd , and to the right the bay
called the Luke of Buoclis, with the Buochser Horn above it; a little
more to the right the Stanser Horn with Stans at its base ; nearer,
the less lofty Biirgenstock and the Rigi-Rothstock. Beyond these,
to the left, is the Lake of Sarnen, embosomed in forest, to the
right, the Bay of Alpnach, connected with the Lake of Lucerne by
a narrow strait formed by the Lopperberg , a spur of Pilatus. —
Good panorama by Keller, upon which that annexed is based.
For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is
clearest ; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds,
frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. To quote the
chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell :
90 Route 26. RIGI.
'Through the parting clouds only
The earth can be seen,
Far down 'neath the vapour
The meadows of green.'
But the mists themselves possess a certain charui, surging in the
depths of the valleys, or veiling the Kulm, and struggling against
the powerfid rays of the sun. The effects of light and shade,
varying so often in the course of the day , are also a source of
constant interest. In the early morning the Bernese Alps are seen
to the best advantage, and in the evening those to the E. of the
Bristenstock. One whole day at least should be devoted to the Rigi.
A visit may also be paid (on foot or by rail) to the Staffel (p. 86),
the Kaltbad (p. 86), the Klosterli (p. 87), or the Scheidegg (see
below), and the Rothstock (p. 86) may be ascended.
As the temperature often varies 40-50o within 24 hours, overcoats
and shawls should not be forgotten. During the prevalence of the Fohn,
or S. wind, the Alps seem to draw nearer, their .iagged outlines become
more definite, their tints warmer; and during a W. wind the Jura Mts.
present a similar appearance. These phenomena generally portend rain.
From the Kaltbau to the Rigi-Scheidegg. — 4V4M. Railway in
25 min. ; fare 2 fr. 50, there and back 3 fr. 60 c. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free.
Rigi-Kalthad (4700'), see p. 86. The railway skirts the S.
slope of the Rothstock, being hewn in the rock the greater part
of the way, and ascends gradually to stat. Rigi -First (4747';
*Hotel, see p. 85), which commands a beautiful view of the Lake
of Lucerne, the Uri and Unterwalden Mts., and the Bernese
Alps. The train now describes a wide curve round the N. slopes of
the Schild (6230'; ^UhT. from the Hotel First), affording a pleasant
view, towards the E., of the Mythen, the Glarnisch, and the Alps
of Appenzell. Beyond stat. Vnterstetten (Hotel, see p. 85) we tra-
verse the saddle of the hill and cross a bridge 55 yds. long, with
a view to the N. and S. We pass through the Weissenegg Tunnel,
55 yds. long, cross the Dossentohel by a viaduct 84' high, and
beyond the ridge which connects the Dossen with the Scheidegg,
where a view towards the S. is again disclosed, reach Vnter-Dossen.
Stat. Rigi-Scheidegg, 160' below the ^Hotel ^- Kurhaus (5405')
mentioned at p. 85. The view hence is less extensive than that
from the Kulm , but it also embraces the principal mountains, and
some points not visible from the Kulm (see Panorama at the hotel).
The plateau of the Scheidegg, about 1 M. in length, affords a
pleasant promenade. The Dossen (p. 91) is ^/^ hr. distant.
The *Hochfluh (5355') may be ascended without difficulty in lV-2-2 hrs.
from the Scheidegg, by a new path constructed by Ur. Stierlin-Hauser,
which steadily follows the ridge, passing the Giitlerli (pass from Gersaii
to Lower/.; 3720') vmH HcharleggH (4475'). In the couloir, on the K.W. side
of the summit, an iron ladder, 80" high, must be ascended. This highly
interesting ascent allords a most picturesque view of the Lake of Uri, the
Alps of Uri and Schwyz, and the Glarner Alps. The older route (2'/2-3 hrs.),
crossing the saddle towards the Ziristock-IIiitle, and then ascending among
the rocks on the S. side, has also lieen improved and may be chosen for
the descent (also to Gersau, p. 79, if desired).
BURGENSTOCK. 27. Route. 91
Paths to the Scheidegg. Fkom Geksau (p. 79j a bridle-path (S'/a hrs.),
steep at places. Beyond the village we cross the brook and ascend by a
paved path between orchards and farm-houses; 40 min., the Brand; '/2 hr.,
a saw-mill, where we again cross the brook; 10 min., Unier ■ Gschwend
(3200'; tavern); 10 min., Ober- Gschwend (3330'; halfway). To the right,
the precipitous slopes of the EochfluU (p. 80) ; below lies the little chapel
of St. Joseph. We now turn to the left (to the right is the path to Lowerz
via the Gatterli. see p. 90) and ascend by the Haseribiihl-Alp and the Kriisel-
hoden to the sharp crest of the hill, where a view is suddenly disclosed of the
Kossberg, the lakes of Lowerz and Zug, and the Kurhaus of Rigi-Scheidegg.
From Lowekz (p. 1(X)) a bridle-path (3 hrs.), ascending towards the S. to
the Gatlerli (see abuve) and thence to the right over the ridge to the hotel.
Fkom the Klosterli (p. 87) a bridle-path (I1/2 hr.), ascending from
the Schwert Inn to the ('/.; hr.) Hotel Rigi-Untersletten (p. 85), situated on
the saddle between the Schild and Dossen (5510'), 40 min. below the sum-
mit, which commands the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and Canton Unter-
walden. Descent via Unterdossen to Scheidegg in 40 minutes. Refreshments
may be obtained at a chalet, halfway between Unterstetten and Scheidegg.
27. From Lucerne to Alpnach-Stad. Pilatus.
Coiiip. Map, p. 77.
BrCsig R.vilwav from Lucerne to (S M.) Alpnach-Stad in 27-32 min.,
(I fr. 40, 1 fr., 70 c. ; return-tickets 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c), see p. 120.
Steamboat, 8 times daily in ^ji-i^j^ hr. (7 times via Kehrsiten, twice
via llergiswyl, thrice direct via Stansstad), connecting at Alpnach-Stad
with the Briinig and Pilatus Railways.
The Bevnig Railway to Alpnach - Stad , via Hergiswyl , see
p. 120. — The STEAMBO.iT steers towards the 'Kreuztrichter' (p. 78),
keeping near the W. bank and passing the country-seat of Tribschen,
the Pension Stutz (p. 73), the St. Niklauscapelle, and the station of
Kastanienbaum, and enters the bay of Stansstad. To the left rises
the Biirgenstock, with its precipitous N. slopes, at the N. E. angle
of which lies the station of Kehrsiten (Restaurant).
A WiKE-RoPE Railway ascends the Biirgenstock from Kehrsiten in
20 min. (fares, up l'/2, 1 fr., down 1 fr., 50 c), traversing a distance of
1025 yds., with an average gradient of 53:100. The motive power is
electricity, which is also utilized for pumping water and for purposes of
lighting. At the top of the railway (2855'. 1420' above the sea-level) is a
"Restaurant, beside which is the large *H6tel Biirgenstock (R. from 2, B.
l'/2, D. 4, pens. 6V2 fr. ; resident physician), a favourite health-resort, with
extensive and shady grounds. The hotel and several points near it com-
mand beautiful views. A good path leads to ('/2 hr.) ^one^jr; and a steep
path (unpleasant in wet weather) ascends through wood in 1 hr. t<i
the Haimnelschwand (3721'), the summit of the Biirgenstock, which descends
abruptly to the Lake of Lucerne : striking view of the greater part of the
lake, of the lakes of Sarnen, Sempach, Baldegg. Hallwyl, and Zug, of the
Rigi, Pilatus, Mythen, Weissenstein, and of the Alps of Glarus and Unter-
walden, and part of the Bernese Alps.
To the right the promontory oi Spissenegg extends far into the
lake, forming a bay which extends to the N. to Winkel. The steamer
steers (except on the direct voyages, see above) to the S.W. to
Hergiswyl (* Hotel- Pension Russli, moderate, pens. 4-7 fr.), at the
foot of Pilatus (p. 92), and then to the E. to Stansstad (1446'; *Uotel
Winkelried, pens. 6 fr., R. extra; Freienhof; RiJssH; Schlilssel^, the
'harbour of Stans'. The square pinnacled Schnitz-Thurm was erected
by the Swiss in 1308 to vindicate their new-won independence.
92 Route 27. PILATUS.
Walk fkom Stansstad to Saknen. The path skirts the lako, fur a
short way, enters the Rotzloch, and at Allweg ("Inn), 2 M. from Stans-
stad, where there is a chapel in memory of Winkelried (pp. SO, 117), .ioins
the Starts and Sarnen Road (no diligence). This road leads past the W.
base of the Sianserhorn (p. 117), and by Ro/iren to (2 M.) SI. Jakob, a village
with an old church, then across the Mehlback, and through the Kernwald
to (3 M.) Kerns ('Krone; Hirsch: Hossli), a pleasant village with a pretty
church, and (1 M.) Sarnen (p. 121).
The Lopper, the E. spur of Pilatus, extends far into the lake.
The brook opposite, which falls into the lake at Stansstad, has further
narrowed the channel between the Lake of Lucerne and the Lake of
Alpnach with its alluvial deposits, and the strait is now crossed by
an embankment and a bridge (Acherbriicke), y/hich is opened for the
passage of steamers. Within the Bay of Alpnach rises the Rotzberg
(2214',- Rotz, Ross, akin to Roche, rock), crowned by a ruined castle
of the same name, which was destroyed on New Year's Day 1308
(ascent from the Rotzloch 3/^ hr. ; fine view). The hill is separated
from the Plaltiherg by the Rotzloch, a narrow ravine, in which the
Mehlback forms several falls. Portland Cement factory (the dust
sometimes very unpleasant). On the lake is situated Pens. Bldtller
(5fr.), with a sulphur-spring and pleasant grounds. On the slope of
the Rotzberg, ^ji^v. to the E., is the *Pcns. iJoizierjf, prettily situated,
and 10 min. beyond it the Pens. Burg Rotzberg.
At the S.W. angle of the Lake of Alpnach lies Alpnach-Stad
(1443'; *H6tel Pilatus, R. & A. 2-3, D. incl. wine 3, pens. 5fr., with
verandah and garden; *Rdssli; Stern^ the station for the Briinig
Railway and the starting-point of the Pilatus Railway (see below).
*Pilatus (6998'), the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne,
rises boldly in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the
surrounding heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the canton
of Lucerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. The lower slopes are
clothed with beautiful pastures and forests, while the upper part
consists of wild and serrated cliffs, from which its ancient name
Fractus Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont',
'Frakmund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, but
the name Pilatus (mons pileatus, the capped mountain) came into
general use about the close of last century.
The names of the different peaks from W. to E. are the Miitaggiipfi
or Gnepfslein (6300'), the Rothe-Totzen (6893'), the Widderfeld (6825'. the
wildest), the Tomlishorn (6998', the highest), the GemsmaltU (6732'); to
the S. the Malthorn (6093'); to the N. the KUmsenhorn (6266', which, seen
from Lucerne, is the farthest W.); in the centre the Oberhaupt, then the
Usel (6965', the most frequently ascended), and lastly the Steigli-Egg (6485').
Pilatus, formerly one of the best known of the Swiss mountains,
was for many years supplanted by the Rigi, but has of late regained
its ancient reputation and become one of the most popular points
of view in Switzerland, especially since the opening of the *Pilatus
Railway in June, 1889.
The Pilatus Railway, the boldest undertaking of the kind ever car-
ried through, was constructed in 1886-88 under the superintendence of
Col. Locher, the inventor of the system adopted. The line, which is
L Ik ~r„. Gspaltenh- f
Ihej ^"""■"SSSO 3W6
1771 Gisw^lerstock Dol
1- , 20H
raulhorn Blumlisi
2663 3661
PILATDS. 27. Route. 93
nearly 3 M. long, with an average gradient of 42 : 100 and a maximum
gradient of 48 : JdO, rests througbout on a substructure of massive granite
blocks and slabs, to which an upper framework of iron and steel is se-
curely fastened with huge screws. In the centre of the track, and a little
elevated above the side-metals, is a rail with vertical teeth on both sides,
into which two pairs of toothed wheels attached to the train work hori-
zontally. The brake may be applied to each of these toothed wheels sep-
arately during the descent. Ihe engine and the passenger - carriage
(32 seats) form a single car with two axles. The ascent or descent takes
I'/ahr. ; fares, up lOfr., down 6fr. The views on both sides are equally fine.
The railway begins near the Hotel Pilatus (1443' ; p. 92), and
immediately ascends, traversing orchards and afterwards wood.
13min. Wolfort Viaduct {196'), a stone bridge, with a span of 24yds.,
across the gorge of the Wolfortbach ; tine view of the Lake of Alp-
nach to the right. We then enter the Wolfort Tunnel (48 yds.),
beyond which the line is carried on massive substructures along the
stony slope of the Risleten, the most difficult portion of the railway
to construct (gradient 48:100), and then traverse the Lower
(56 yds.) and Upper Spyrher Tunnel (106 yds. long; 3773' above the
sea-level) to the (40 min.) Aemsigenalp (4593'), a passing-station
with pumping-works which force water to the Pilatus-Kiilm, 2197'
above. The railway now ascends towards the W. via the Mattalp
(to the right the >"!^teigli-Egg, in front the Esel) and is next carried
up the precipitous rocky summit of the Esel through four tunnels
(48, 60, 50, and 12 yds. long). The terminus Pilatuskulm (6790')
adjoins the large new Hotel tilatusUulm [oT^tw&A in 1890; fine view
from the terrace). — A new path leads from this point to (8 min.)
the summit of the *Esel (6965'), the chief point of view. The view
resembles that from the Rigi, but surpasses it in grandeur and
variety, the Bernese Alps in particular looming nearer and more
massive (comp. the Panorama).
A still more comprehensive view may be enjoyed from the *Tom-
lishorn (6998'), the highest peak of Pilatus, to which a new path, passing
through a rock-gallery, 1365 yds. in length, leads from the Pilatuskulm
in 20 min. (Panorama by Imfeld).
Pedestrians will tind the ascent of Pilatus best made from Hergisinjl
('•'Rossle), a railway and steamboat station (p. 92) at the ^-W- foot of the
mountain. There is a bridle-path as lar as the (3' 2 hrs.) Hotel Kimseu-
horn (horse 12 fr., descent on the same day 8, next day 12 Ir.), whence a
footpath ascends to (40 miu.) the Pilatuskulm. In front of the church v, e
take the broader path to the left, and after 3 min. ttirn to the right,
traversing orchards and meadows, and afterwards wood. At (l^A hr.) the
JIdt.-Peiis. Brunni, a small sulphur-bath, there is a terrace affording a
line view; 6 min., a bench shaded by pines; ^'4 hr., a second bench. After
12 min. tlie path leads through a gate to the Gsc/iu-dndalp, where a third
bench (6 min.) commands a fine view. Is'ear a chalet (20 min.) we pass
through another gale and ascend in steep zigzags to the left, at lirst
through beautiful pine-wood, and then across slopes of grass and debris,
to (IV4 hr.) the Hotel Klimsenhorn, situated on the saddle (5940', 35' higher
than the Rigi-Kulm) connecting the Oberhaupt with the Klimsenhorn.
From the hotel we may ascend the (10 min.) -Klimsenhorn (6265').
which atTords an extensive and picturesque prospect to the E., X., and
W., from the Uri Mis. to the Lake of Neuchatel. The view to the S. is
hidden by the loftier peaks of Pilatus. The Tomlishom (see above) may
also be ascended from the hotel, by a new path via the Kastelenalp.
94 Route 28. LAKE OF ZUG.
From the Hotel Klinisenhorn a well-constructed zigzag path ascends
the steep slope of the OberhmqH, to the (40 min.) Kriesiloch, an aperture
in the rock resembling a chimney, 20' high, through which 41 wooden
steps ascend to the arete between the Oberhaupt and the Esel. The 'View
of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed here. The path then leads in
a few minutes to the II6(el Bellevue (p. 93).
The Pilatuskulm may also be reached by bridle-paths frpm Alpnacli-
Stad (41/2 hrs.; \ii the Aemsigeiialp and MaUalp; horse with guide 15 fr.)
and from Alpnach (p. 121; 41/2-5 hrs. ; via the Alps oiLUiholdsmatt, Schwandt,
and Hinter-Frokmund). — From Kriens (p. 76) a path leads to (3'/2-4 hrs.)
the Hotel Klimsenhorn, passing the chateau of Schauensee, and traversing
the Hochwald and marshy pastures via the MUhlenmdss-Alp and Frak-
miind-Alp (guide indispensable). Via the Briindlenalp (last part of the
route very rough), see p. 77.
The Rigi has a marked advantage over Pilatus in frequently
enjoying clear and sunny weather while its rival is shrouded in
clouds or fog. Being an advanced outpost of the Alpine chain,
Pilatus attracts every storm that approaches from the N. or W., and
is the popular barometer of the district. An old saying runs thus : —
'If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day;
If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way ;
But if his sword he wields, at home you'd better stay '.'
If the summit is free from clouds and fog in the morning, the
weather cannot be depended on ; but if shrouded in fog till midday,
a fine afternoon may be expected.
Many legends are connected with Pilatus, particularly with its caverns
(the Mondmilchloch below the Tomlisalp , and the Dominikhohle above the
Briindlenalp) and its Lake, below the summit, not far from the Briindlen-
alp. One of the oldest is, that when Pontius Pilate was banished from
Galilee, he fled hither, and in the bitterness of his remorse, drowned
himself in this lake.
28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth.
Coiitp. Maps, pp. 7G, 84.
i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug.
Steamboat (in connection with the Zurich and Lucerne and the Rigi
railways) in 50 min. (Quick train from Zug by Rothkreuz to Arth-Goldau
in 48 min., ordinary in 1 hr. 40 min.)
The Lake of Zug (1368'), 88/4 M. long, 21/2 M. wide, and 650'
deep, is very picturesque. Its richly wooded banks rise gently to
a moderate height, while to the S., above its azure waters, towers
the Rigi, visible from base to summit. On the flat N. bank of the
lake many remains of lake-dwellings have been discovered.
Zug, see p. 71. Soon after the steamer has left the pier, Pilatus
appears to the S.W., and then the Bernese Alps and the Stanser-
horn to the left. On a promontory on the W. bank is the handsome
new chateau of Buonas ; on the E. bank lie the village of Oherwyl
and the houses of Otterswyl and Elelenegg. Looking back, we ob-
serve the church-tower of Cham (p. 71), rising above the plain.
On the W. bank, farther on, the wooded promontory of Kiemen pro-
jects far into the lake. To the left of the Rigi-Scheidegg are the
Frohiialpstock and the Ross-Stocke. Tlie steamer touches at Lolhen-
KUSSNACH. 2.S. Route. 95
bach on the E. bank, and then crosses to Immensee (^Hot. Rigi),
charmingly situated at tlie foot of the Rigi. (Rail, stat., see p. 100;
omnibus to Kiissnach in 1/2 lir. ; path to the Rigi, p. 87.)
On the E. bank lies the village of Walchuujl, (* Stern ]\ farther
on, St. Adrian, at the foot of the Rossberg (see p. 100), which on
this side is clothed with wood and pasture. As Arth is approached,
one of theMythenof Schwyz (p. 101) peeps from behind the Rossberg.
Arth (1345'; *Adler, with garden on the lake ; *H6t. Rigi; Schliis-
sel) lies at the S. end of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross-
berg, but not exposed to the landslips of the latter, the strata of
which dip in another direction. The Church, erected in 1677, con-
tains a silver cup and vase captured at Grandson in 1476.
Arth-Rigi Railway, see p. 86. — From Arth fo Kiissnach and Lucerne,
see p. 100.
ii. From Lucerne to Kiissnach and Arth.
Steamboat from Lucerne to (8 M.) Kiissnacli, 1 hr. ; Post-Omnibus
from Kiissnacli to (2 M.) stat. Immensee thrice daily in 25 min., Railway
from Immensee to (5 M.) Arth-Goldau in 19 minutes. (From Lucerne by
Rothkreuz to Arth-Goldau 55-75 min. ; see pp. 99, 100.)
Departure from Lucerne, see p. 77. The steamer touches at
Pens. Seeburg Qp.lS), rounds the promontory oi Meggenhorn(jp.78\
and enters the Bay of Kiissnach. To the left, near stat. Vorder-
Meggen, rises the picturesque chateau of Neu-Habsburg , behind
which peeps the ancient tower of the castle of that name, once a
frequent resort of the Emp. Rudolph when Count of Hapsburg,
and destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. The incident which in-
duced Rudolph to present his horse to the priest is said to have
occurred here (see Schiller's ballad, 'The Count of Hapsburg').
Stat. Hinter-Meggen (*Kurhaus ^' Pens. Gottlieben, suitable for
some stay, prettily situated Y4M. from the lake, 5-9 fr.). The steamer
now crosses to Greppen, skirts the beautiful wooded slopes of the
Rigi, and soon reaches —
8M. Kiissnach or Kilssnacht (^i3%' ; pop. 2922; *ndt. du Lac,
with garden on the lake,R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. ; *Schioarzer Adler ;
RiJssli; Tell: *Pens. Sigwart), a village prettily situated at the N.
end of this bay of the lake. Omnibus to Immensee from the land-
ing place; one-horse carr. 3 fr. — Ascent of the Rigi, see p. 87.
The road ascends through the 'Hohle Gasse' or 'hollow lane' ;
see Schiller's Tell), now half filled up, but still deserving the name
at one point where it is shaded by lofty beeches. At the upper end
of it, 11/4 M. from Kiissnach, to the left, is Tell's Chapel (1585'),
rebuilt in 1834, marking the spot where the tyrant Gessler is said
to have been shot by Tell. Over the door is a painting of the event,
with an inscription.
By the (1/2 M.) inn *Zut Eiche, the road divides. A few paces
to the right is stat. Immensee- Kiissnach (p. 100). The road to the
left descends to ('/i^O the village of Immensee (see above).
96
29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and
Brunnen.
Comp. Maps, pp. 38, 76.
30 M. Railwat to (IOV2 M.) Einsiedeln in 1 hr. (fare 2 fr. or 1 fr.
50 c). Diligence from Einsiedeln to (19V2 M.) Brunnen twice daily in
3V4 lirs. (to Schwyz in 23/4 brs.)i fare 4 fr. 75 c. By taking the train to
Biberbruck and the diligence thence to Brunnen, the traveller may reach the
latter from Wadenswyl without passing Einsiedeln. — One-horse carr. from
Einsiedeln to Brunnen in 8^/4 hrs. , 17 fr. ; two-horse carr. from Biber-
bruck to Brunnen 25 fr.
Wadenswyl , see p. 40. The line (gradient 1 : 50) gradually
ascends the fertile slopes on the S. hank of the Lake of Ziirich, com-
manding heautiful views of the lake and the islands of Lutzelau and
Ufnau (p. 40). On a hill to the right is the ruin of Alt- Wadenswyl.
2M. Burghalden; 3^/4 M. Samstagern (IV4M. to the S.W. of which
is the whey-cure estab. of Hiitten, p. 40). Beyond (51/2 M.) Schin-
dellegi (2483' ; *Freihof ; HirscK), we cross the brawling Sihl. Now
that we have quitted the fertile bank of the lake, the scenery sud-
denly assumes a more Alpine character. The line rounds the E.
slopes of the Hohe Rhonen (4042'), and approaches the Alp,
which falls into the Sihl here. Towards the S. appear the Mythen
(p. 101). Beyond (71/2 M.) Biberbruck (2730'; Post), where the
Biber falls into the Alp, the Glarus Mts., bounded on the left by
the pyramidal Kopfenstock(6240'), form the background.
Pleasant excursion from Biberbruck (by road Vj-2, footpath I'/i tr.)
to the top of the Gottschalkenberg (3780' ,• ''Inn), the W. prolongation
of the Sohe Rhonen (see above), commanding a line view of the Alps.
The descent may be made to (21/2 M. ) Aegeri (p. 98), to (IV2 hr-) Richterswyl
(p. 40), or by Menzingen to (6 M.) Ztig (p. 71).
The train follows the narrow Alpthal (several cuttings and em-
bankments, and a short tunnel), and soon reaches the basin of
(IOV2 M.) Einsiedeln (see below).
Fkom Rappeeswyl to Einsiedeln. By the lake-viaduct to Burden
and Pfdffikon (rail, in 10 min.), see p. 41. A narrow road commanding
fine views of the lake ascends in windings, past the Pens. Lugete, to the
(3 M.) pass of theEtzel (3255'; poor Inn), with the \C'hapel of St. Meinrad.
The Hoch-Etzel (3615'; steep ascent of '/a br. from the inn) is wooded, and
commands no view, but the -Schonboden (3523'), V* br. to the E., affords
a splendid view of the lake, the Limmatthal as far as Baden , the Alps of
Appenzell and Glarus, the Siblthal and Alpthal, with Einsiedeln, the
Mythen of Schwyz, the Rossberg, and the Rigi ; to the W. rises the Hohe
Rhonen (4042'), locally called Dreilanderstein from the stone at the top
marking the boundaries of cantons Ziirich, Zug, and Schwyz. Travellers
bound for Einsiedeln may from the Schonboden descend towards the S.W.
direct to Egg, visible below, cross the Sihl, and join the road from the
Etzel. — From the Etzel Inn the road descends to the (2/4 M.) Teu/elsbriicke
(2200') over the iSilU. The famous Paracelsus (d. 1541 at Salzburg) is said
to have been born or to have once lived here. Then 3^4 M. to Einsiedeln.
Einsiedeln (2890'; pop. 8513; ^Pfau, R. & A. 21/2, B. from 1,
D. 3, S. 21/2 fr. ; *Sonne; DreiKUnige; *Adler; Schwan), or Notre-
Dame-des-Ermites ( Monaster ium Eremitarum), in a green valley,
watered by the Alpbach, vies with Rome and Loreto in Italy, St.
Jago de Compostella in Spain, and Mariazell in Styria as one of
EINSIEDELN. ^21). Route. 97
the most famous pilgrim-resorts in the world. Its 'foundation is at-
tributed to Count Meinrad of Sulgen, who built a chapel here in
honour of a wonder-working image of the Virgin presented to him
by the Abbess Hildegard of Zurich. After the death of Meinrad,
who was assassinated in 861, a monastery of Benedictine Hermits
('Einsiedler') sprang up here. In 1294 it was created an indepen-
dent principality by Emp. Rudolph of Hapsburg, and owing to the
constantly increasing throng of pilgrims which it attracted soon vied
with St. Gallen as one of the richest monasteries in Switzerland.
In the large open space between the houses (a great many of
which are inns for the entertainment of the pilgrims) and the con-
spicuous buildings of the monastery rises a black marble Fountain
with fourteen jets, surmounted by an image of the Virgin , from
which the pilgrims are wont to drink. Under the Arcades , which
form a semicircular approach to the church on the right and left,
as well as in the Platz itself, there are numerous stalls for the sale of
prayer-books, images of saints, rosaries, medals, crucifixes, and
other 'devotional' objects. So great is the demand for engravings,
religious works, and other souvenirs of the place, that at Benziger
i-S' Co.'s establishment no fewer than 700 workmen are employed in
printing and stereotyping, engraving on wood and zinc, chromo-
lithographing, book -binding, etc. The pilgrims, who come chiefly
from Switzerland, Bavaria, Swabia, Baden, and Alsace, number about
150,000 annually. The greatest festival takes place on 14th Sept.
The extensive Abbey Buildings, in the Italian style, which were
re-erected for the sixth or seventh time in 1704-19, are 148 yds.
long , 41 yds. of which are occupied by the Church and its two
slender towers. On the right and left of the entrance are Statues of
the Emperors Otho I. and Henry II., two benefactors of the Abbey.
The Interior of the church is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble,
and pictures of little value. In the nave , isolated from the rest of the
l)uilding, stands the Chapel of the Virgin, of black marble , the 'Sanc-
tum Sanctorum', with a grating, through which, illuminated by a solitary
lamp, a small Image of the Virgin and Child is visible, richly attired, and
decked with crowns of gold and precious stones. At the back of the
chapel is the inscription : '■Deiparae Virgini Casparus Comes in Altaembs
Oallara et Vadutz Per/ecil Anno Saliilis mdcxxxii.' In the chapel to the
right a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir an Assumption by the same
artist, skilfully restored by Deschwanden in 1858. The Treasury, once so
rich, was despoiled by the French in 1798. The Abbey contains a well-
arranged Library of 26,CKX) volumes, chiefly historical, a number of MSS.,
and a small natural history collection. The Fukstensaal is hung with
good life-size portraits, including those of Pius IX. and the emperors
William I., Francis Joseph, and Napoleon III. The Private Chapel of
the abbot is adorned with paintings of ecclesiastical events. — Connected
with the Abbey are a Seminary and a Lyceum.
Zwingli was pastor of Einsiedeln from 1515 to 1519; and the eflect
of his preaching was such, that in 1517, on the anniversary festival, the
monks left their cells, and the Abbey was for a time quite deserted.
The Herrenberg (3648'), a hill near the Abbey, commands a
beautiful view of the neighbourhood.
Baedekeb, Switiierland. 13th Edition.
98 Route 29. ROTHENTHURM.
From Einsiedbln to Schwyz and Brunnkn. The high-road
leads towards the N.W. to —
3 M. Biherbruck (p. 96), and then turns to the S. to (21/4 M.)
AUmatt (3035'), a poor hamlet of weavers on a large moor, to which
a cart-track leads direct from Einsiedeln in 1 hr. across the lofty
plain of Katzenstrick (3455'; Inn at the top).
8 M. Rothenthurm (3050'; *Ochs), where the long hack of
the Rigi and the hotels on the Kulm hecome visible, is named
after a red tower belonging to fortifications (Letze) once erected by
the Schwyzers to protect their N.W. boundary. In the vicinity,
on the E. slope of the Morjrar/en (see below), on 2nd May, 1798, the
Schwyzers under Reding defeated the French, who lost 2000 men.
The road traverses monotonous pastures, passing Biberegg (3110')
on the left, and then descends in numerous windings. In the gorge
far below flows the Steinen-Aa.
10 M. Sattel (2730'; Neue Krone, on the road, Alte Krone, in
the village) lies above the new road.
From Sattel to Unter-Aegeri. 6' '2 M., diligence daily in 1 hr., passing
the pretty Aegeri-See (2385'). On the Morgarten, the hill on the S.E. side
of the lake, on 16th Nov. 1315, the Confederates won their first victory
over their Hapsburg oppressors commanded by Leopold of Austria. A
memorial chapel, containing a representation of the battle , was erected
at St. Jakob, s/j M. to the N. of Sattel and 1 M. from the S.E. end of the
lake. A commemoration service is held here annually on the day of the
battle. At the W. end of the lake are the villages of (4 M.) Ober- and
(I1/2 M.) Unter-Aegeri C Post; 'Hot. Henggeler), with a new Gothic church,
prettily situated at the mouth of the Lorze (lake-baths). Ascent of the
Zuger Berg (p. 71) 8/4 hr. ; of the Gottschallenherg (p. 96) i'A hr. The
"Rossherg fp. 100), may be ascended throvigh the Hurithal and over the
Jios.ibergalp in 2'/2 hrs. — From Ober-Acgeri to Zug diligence twice daily
in IV2 hr.
From Sattel to Goidau, 5'/2 M., diligence twice daily in 3/4 hour.
The road leads at first high above the deep ravine of the Steinen-An,
passing the P/4 M.) Ecce-Homo Chapel (2410'), where the old road to
Schwyz by Steinen (p. 100) diverges to the left. It then skirts the Rossherg
(p. 100), passes Steinerherg (*Rossli), whence the Wildspitz (see p. 100) is
easily ascended in 3 hrs., and leads across the scene of the Goldau land-
slip to ih?li M.) Stat. Arth- Goldau (p. 100).
The ScHLAGSTRAssE , as the new road from Sattel to Schwyz is
called, crosses the Steinen-Aa and descends on the W. slope of the
JJacken (see below), affording beautiful views of the fertile valley of
Steinen, the Lake of Lowerz with the Schwanau, the scene of the
Goldau landslip, and the Rigi. At (4 M.) Auf der Burg (*Inn)
Schwyz and the Mythen become visible. 'Thence to stat. Seewen
11/4 M., to Schwyz 2 M.
I61/9 M. Schwyz, 1 M. from the Schwyz-Seeuien station on the
St. Gotthard line (p. 100).
From Einsiedeln to Schwtz over the Hacken (3V2 hrs.), destitute
of shade, and very disagreeable in bad weather. We ascend the monoton-
ous Alplhal (with the nunnery oi Au on the right) to the (l'/2 hr.) village
of Alpthal (3258'; 'Stern), where the somewhat rough and steep log-path,
ascending the Hacken begins. In 1/2 hr. we reach a point where the
space between the two Mythen (p. 101), shaped like the letter V, is
ROTHKREUZ. 30. Route. 99
distinctly observed, and in 1/2 Iir. more the Inn on the Hacken Pass
(4588'), which commands a splendid view of the lakes of Lucerne and
Lowerz, etc. (The view is still finer from the Hochsluckli, 5105', '/2 ^^•
higher up, to the N., and embraces the K. part of the lake and the town
of Ziirich.) Descent to (i hr.) Schwyz steep and stony.
Fkom Einsiedeln to Schwtz over the Iberger Egg , 13 M. Good
road through the Sihlthal or Euthal by Steinhach and Eulhal to (8 M.)
Iberg (34S3'); thence to the Iberger Egg (4823') or Heilighauschen, afford-
ing a fine survey of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps, and by Biilisherg
and Rickenhach to (5 M.) Schwyz.
The road from Schwyz to (3 M.) Brunnen (St. Gotthard Railway,
see p. 101) crosses the Mucta (p. 101) at Ibach, and passes Jngen-
bohl, with its pilgrimage-church and the nunnery of Mariabilf,
founded in 1855.
I9V2 M. Brunnen, see p. 81.
30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard
Railway.
Comp. Maps, pp. 76, 84, 118, 102, 108, 372.
t09 M. Railway. Express in 5^4; ordinary trains in 7'/2 hrs. ; fares
2ifr. 60, 17 fr. 20, 12 fr. 30 c. (To Lugano 127'/2 BI., express in 6V4 hrs.;
29 fr. 30, 20 fr. 50, 14 fr. 66 c. ; to Milan 176 M., in 9V4 hrs.; 36 fr. 65,
18 fr. 5 c.) Rothki-euz (p. 71), a station between Zug and Lucerne, the
.starting-point of the St. Gotthard line, is reached by express from Ziirich
in about IV2 hr. ; from Bale by Lucerne in 3 hrs., or by Aaraxi or by
Brugg and Mvri in 3'/2-4'/4 hrs. — For the day express there is a table
d'hote at Goschenen, where the traveller should be careful to avoid an
involuntary change of carriages, or even of trains. In the great tunnel it
is unnecessary to close the windows (comp. p. 105) , but this should be
done in the curved or loop-tunnels, especially in ascending. Finest views
from Lucerne to Fluelen to the right, from Fliielen to Goschenen to the
left, and from Airolo to Bellinzona to the right. These are seen most
comfortably from the open galleries of the new saloon-carriages (1st &
2nd class).
The '"St. Gotthard Railway, constructed in 1872-82 at a cost of
238 million francs - is one of the grandest achievements of modern
times. It includes the Immensee, Goldau, Fluelen, Bellinzon;i, Lugano,
and Chiasso (128 M.), the Bellinzona and Locarno (I31/2 M.) and the
Bellinzona, Magndino, and Pino (17 M.) lines. The highest point of the
line, in the middle of the great tunnel , is 3787' above the sea-level, and
the maximum gradient is about 1' in 4'. At places the ascent is rendered
more gradual by means of curved tunnels, piercing the sides of the
valley; there are three such tunnels on the N. side, and four on the S.
side of the mountain (comp. Map, p. 103). Altogether the line has 56
tunnels (of an aggregate length of 251/2 M.), 32 bridges, 10 viaducts, and 24
minor bridges. In order to examine the most interesting structure of the
line itself, the traveller should drive in an open carriage or walk from Amsteg
to Goschenen (12 M.) and from Airolo to Giornico (15 31.1. Those who are not
pressed for time should take the steamboat from Lucerne to Fliielen, in
preference to the train; or, if they have not yet visited the Rigi, they
may take the railway to Eothkreuz, Arth-Goldau, the Eigi-Kulm, and
Vitznau, and the steamer thence to Fliielen.
From Lucerne to (11 M.) Rothkreuz (1410'), see p. 71. Our
line diverges to the right, traversing a hilly and wooded tract. To
the right the Rigi, the Uii and Engelberg Alps, and Pilatus. Be-
fore reaching Immensee (p. 95), which lies below us, on the left,
7*
100 Route 30. GOLDAU. From Lucerne
we obtain a survey of the E. part of the Lake of Zug (p. 94). On
the N. bank lies Walchiryl; then St. Adrian (p. 95).
16 M. Immensee - Kiissnach (1585'). Omnibus to Kussnach
in 25 niin. (p. 95 ; TelVs Chapel, at the end of the ^Hohle Gasse\
is 1/2 M. from the station). To the right the wooded slopes of the
Rigi, with the Kulm Hotel far above us (p. 88).
The train runs high above the Lake of Zug , passing through
several cuttings. At the E. end of the lake, on the left, lies the
thriving village of Arth (p. 95), at the foot of the wooded Ross-
berg, behind which rise the Mythen (see below). Threading the
Rindelfluh Tunnel (2'20yds.) and several rock-cuttings, we reach —
21 M. Arth -Goldau (1845'; Rail. Restaurant; Hof Ooldau, a.t
the station; *Rdssli, in the village of Goldau), situated on the
scene of the great Goldau Landslip, which occurred on Sept.
2nd, 1806. This landslip, which descended from the Gnippen
(5127'), the W. summit of the Rossberg, buried four villages with
457 of their inhabitants. The railway traverses part of this scene
of desolation, which extends a considerable way up the Rigi. Time
has covered the fragments of rock with moss and other vegetation,
and pools of stagnant water have been formed between them at places.
The track of the landslip may be distinctly traced on the side of the
Rossberg, which is still entirely barren.
The "Rossberg (highest peak, the Wildspitz, 5190') may be ascended
without difficulty in 3 hrs. from Sieinerberg (2063'; "Rossli), 2V4 M. from
Arth -Goldau and l'/4 M. from Steinen, via Eof, Schtcand, and the Boss-
berghiitte (4183'). At the top, which commands a line view (Panorama by
Imfeld), is the Hotel Rossberg-Knlm. — The descent may be made to
Aegevi (p. 98).
On the slope to the left lie the houses of Steinerberg (p. 98) ;
on the right, high above, is the Kurhaus Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 90).
The train rounds the pretty Lowerzer See (1475'; 2^/4 M. long).
To the right lies the village of Lowerz , and in the middle of the
lake tlie island of Schicanau with its ruined castle, a chapel, and
a fisherman's house (Inn ; visit by boat from Lowerz or Seeweu in
25 min.). — 24'/2 M. Steinen (1525' ; Rossli), a considerable village
in a fertile situation, the traditional birthplace of Werner Stauff-
acher[p. 82). On the supposed site of his house stands the Chapel of
the Holy Rood with old frescoes, which is said to have been erected
in 1400. The train crosses the Steinen-Aa to — •
26 m. Schwyz-Seewen. The village of /Sceu-cn (1515'; *R6ssli;
*Stern), to the W.of the line, at the foot of the E. spur of the Rigi,
has a chalybeate bath which attracts visitors. About 1 M. to the E.
lies Schwyz (1685'; pop. 6624; *Rossli, 11., L., & A. 2-3 fr. ;
*HdtelHediger, same charges), a straggling town, lying picturesquely
at the base and on the slopes of the Little Mythen (5955') with its two
peaks, and the Great Mythen (6245'). The Parish Church (1774) is
considered one of the handsomest in Switzerland. The ToiDn Hall
contains portraits of 43 'landammanns' (magistrates) from 1534
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LOOP TUNNELS
IN THE ilASCHlNA BMINE,
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Geogr^i Anst v "Wa^cr*D^et> Leipzig
Eng-lisli Mile.
to Bellinzonn. LAKE OF URI. SO. Route. 101
downwards, and an old carved ceiling. The large Jesuit Monastery,
above the town, is now a grammar-school.
The ~ Great Mythen (6245': S'/z hrs. ; guide 6 fr. , unnecessary for the
experienced ; horse to the Holzegg 8-10 fr.), ascended without difficulty by
a new path, is a magnificent point of view, hardly inferior to the Rigi
and Pilatus. Road from Schwyz to (1 M.) Rickenbach (Stern, good, pens.
4 fr.); bridle-path thence to the (2 hrs.) Holzegg (4642': small Inn), which
may also be reached by a direct path from Schwyz via the Holle and the
pastures of Hasli and flolz (guide desirable). — From Brunnen by Ibacli
and (3 M.) Rickenbach to the Holzegg in 3 hrs. , Schwyz remaining on the
left. — Good path from Einsiedein by AlpDial to the Holzegg in 2^/4 hrs.
— From the Holzegg the new Mythen path (railings at the steepest partsj
ascends in 49 zigzags on the E. side of the mountain, and then follows a
narrow arete to the (l'/4 br.) summit (*Inn, plain, 10 beds). Good panorama
by A. Heim.
A very attractive walk may be taken from Schwyz to the Suicoroir
Bridge in the Muotaihal , returning via Ober-Schonenbuch (2 hrs. in all);
comp. p. 65.
We now turn to the S. (passing the Frohnalpstock on the left,
with the Kurhaus Stoos far above us, p. 81), cross the Muota
near Ingenbohl, and reach —
281/2 M. Brunnen (1435'; EaU. Restaurant ; p.8i), the most fre-
quented spot on the Lake of Lucerne. (Station on the N.W. side,
Y.2 M. from the lake.)
Passing through a tunnel under the Gutsch and the Axen-
strasse (p. 82), the train now reaches the *Lake of TJri, or S.E.
bay of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 82), and is carried along its bank
by a series of tunnels and rock-cuttings. Splendid views of the
lake to the right. High above it, on the opposite bank, lie the
houses of Seelisberg, at the foot of which are the Mythenstein and
Riitli (p. 82); and farther to the left towers the Uri-Rothstock with
its glacier (p. 84). We pass through the Hochfluh Tunnel
(640 yds.), the St. Franciseus Tunnel (212 yds.'), and the Oelherg
Tunnel (2169 yds.), the longest but one on the line. 321/2 M.
Sisikon, at the mouth of the narrow Eiemenstaldenthal (p. 82).
Crossing the Axenstrasse, and enjoying fine glimpses of the lake
and the Uri-Rothstock to the right, we traverse the Stutzeck Tunnel
(1082 yds.) and others, passing Tell's Platte (chapel not visible;
p. 83), the Axenherg (3670' long), and the Sulzeck, to —
36 M. Fliielen (1435'; Rail. Restaurant; comp. p. 83), the port
of Uri, and the starting-point of the old high-road over the St.
Gotthard (pp. 103, 108).
We now ascend the broad lower Reussthal, with the Bristen-
stockQp. 103) in the background, and the two Windgdllen (p. 114)
to the left of it.
38 xM. Altdorf, or ^«or/" (1465'; pop. 2577; Hotel de la Gare,
plain, R. 1-2 fr.; in the village, *Schliissel ; *Ldwe; Krone; *Tell,
with garden), the capital of Canton Uri, 1 M. from the station, lies
in a fertile valley surrounded by mountains.
This pleasant little town is the traditional scene of the exploits of
William Tell, the liberator of Switzerland from the Austrian yoke. A colos-
sal Statue of Tell, in plaster, erected in 1861, is said to occupy the spot
102 Route 30. ERSTFELD. From Lucerne
whenco the intrepid archer aimed at tlie apple placed on his son's head by
order of the tyrant Gessler. About 150 paces distant stands a fountain,
with a statue of Besler, a magistrate of the town, erected on the supposed
site of the lime-tree by which Tell's child stood while awaiting his father's
arrow, and which is said to have flourished here till 1567. Some say that
the lime-tree was 30 paces farther back, on the ground where the tower now
stands; but the latter is known to have existed before the 14th century.
The Church contains a Madonna in relief, by Imhof. The Ca-
puchin Monastery, above the church, and the neighbouring Pavilion
Waldeck command beautiful views. (Ascent near the tower, or
from below Tell's statue.) Above the monastery lies the Bannwald,
a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is proscribed , as it
protects Altdorf from falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, Act iii. Scene 3).
To the right, beyond the town, is a Nunnery^ to the left the Arsenal;
then, about 1 M. to the left, the village of Biirglen (1805'; Tell), prettily
situated on a height at the entrance to the Schachenthal (p. 04), the tra-
ditional birth-place of Tell. The supposed site of his house is marked
by a Chapel, erected in 1522, and adorned with paintings of his exploits.
Through the Schdchenthal and over the Klaiisen to Slachelberg, see
R. 20. A glimpse at the Schichenthal is best obtained by ascending from
Weitefschwanden or Spivingen (p. 64) in about l>/2 hr. to one of the farm-
houses in the Kessel {4505'), which aflford a most picturesque survey of the
grand head of the valley (Scheerhorn, Griesgletscher, Kammlistock , and
Claridenstock) , with beautiful fresh pastures and dark pine-forest in the
foreground. — The Ross-Stock (S080' ; 5 hrs. ; with guide), a splendid point
of view, is ascended from Biirglen, via the Metlenthal-Alp. Descent, if
preferred, through the Riemenstaldenthal to Sisikon (p. 82).
The train now crosses the wild Schdchenbach in its artificial bed,
near its confluence with the Reuss. From among fruit-trees to the
left peeps the pretty church of Schattorf. To the right, beyond the
Reuss, we observe the church-tower and the ruined castle ofAttiny-
hausen, in which the Baron Werner of Attinghausen, one of the
characters in Schiller's Tell, is said to have died in 1307. The back-
ground of the valley towards the S. is formed by the pyramidal Bri-
stenstock (p. 103); to the right rise the bold precipices of the Gitschen
(8335') and the Bockli (6810'}; to the left the Mittagstock (6663'),
Belmistock (7933'), Hohe Faulen (8260'), and lastly the two Wlnd-
(jdlleniGrosse, or Kalkstock, 10,463'; Kleine, or Sewelislock, 9800'J.
417.2 M. Erstfeld (1503'-, Hof Erstfeld, Hot. Bahnhof, both at
the station, unpretending), a large railway-depot, where the ascent
begins and a heavier locomotive is attached to the train. The village
lies on the opposite bank of the Reuss, at the mouth of the Erst-
felder Thai, above which peep the jagged Spannijrter, the Engel-
berg-Eothstock, and the strangely contorted Schlossberg Glacier.
The interesting Erstfelder Thai (comp. Map, p. 118), flanked by steep
and lofty mountains, extends to the Schlossberg Glacier (4 hrs.). At the
head of the valley are two Alpine lakes, the gloomy Faulensee, '/o hr. from
the glacier, and the Obersee (6463'), ^/j ^r. farther to the S., at the base
of the Kronlel or KrSnte (10,197'). The Faulenbach, which flows out of the
latter, forms a beautiful fall. Fatiguing passes (10-11 hrs. ; for adepts
only, with good guides) lead hence over the Schlossberg-Liicke (8635') and
over the Spannort-Joch (9610') to Engelberg (comp. p. 119).
From Erstfeld or Altdorf over the Surenen to Engelberg, see p. 120.
The Reussthal narrows, and the train begins to ascend on the
right bank, 45 M. Stat. Amsteg (1795'), above iSi^enen, a village in
to Bellinzona. AMSTEG. 30. Route. 103
the midst of fruit-trees. Near the station , on a rocky hill to the
right, are the ruins of Zwing-Vri, traditionally a castle of Gessler.
About 1 M. farther on lies the village of Amsteg (1760' ; *Stern, or
Post; *Hirsch; *Freihof; *Enyel; in all, R. 11/2-2, 'pens'. 4-6 fr.),
prettily situated at the mouth of the Maderaner That, through which
the Karstelenbach descends to the Reuss.
''Maderaner Thal (bridle-path in 3V4 brs. to the otel Alpenclub),
see R. 32. — Over the Kriizli Pass or the Bvunni Pass to Disentis and over
the Clariden Pass to Stachelberg^ see p. 114.
The Bristenstock (10,090'; 7-8 hrs.; very fatiguing; guide 20 fr.), as-
cended from Amsteg by the Bristenalp and the Blackialp and past the small
Bristen-HneU (7090'j, atlbrds a grand but hardly repaying panorama. De-
scent to the Etzlithal or FellWial difficult. — Oberalpstock (10,925'), Kleine
and Grosse Windgalle (9800' and 10,463'), etc., see pp. 113, 114. — The Hohe
Faulen (8260'; 5 hrs., vs^ith guide; not difficult and attractive) may be as-
cended from Silenen through the Evithal and over the Sirengmatt, Mhonen,
and Balmeten Alps.
The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to Goschenen (comp. Map, p. 118)
should be traversed on foot (or in an open carriage), both for the sake of
the scenery and for the opportunity it affords of examining the interesting
railway. It crosses the Karstelenbach and then the Reuss by a bridge of two
arches. To the left runs the railway; below us the Reuss dashes through its
deep ravine, forming a succession of waterfalls. In the early summer huge
masses of avalanche-snow, looking like earth or detritus, are seen in some
of the gorges. Beyond (I'A M.) Inschi (2168'; Lamm) we pass a fall of the
Inschi-Alphach. A picturesquely situated bridge carries the road back to the
right bank of the Reuss (the railway remaining on the left bank), on which
lies (l'/2 M.) Meiischlingen, with a chapel. About '/2 M. farther on we cross the
Fellibac/i. (Through the narrow Felli-Thal or Felleneii-Thal, which abounds
in crystals, the Oberalp-See may be reached by the Felli-Lucke in 6 hrs. ;
p. 365.) On the hill opposite stands the hamlet of Ourtnellen (3048').
Beyond the village of Wyler is (3 M.) a third bridge C2660'), called the
Pfaffensprung ('priest's leap', from the tradition that a monk once leaped
across the stream here with a girl in his arms), by which the road re-
crosses to the left bank. The first of the curved tunnels of the railway
begins here (see below). Far below, the river dashes through a narrow gorge.
^Mew beautiful in both directions. The road crosses the turbulent ileieii-
Renss (p. 127) .shortly before reaching iV/-2 M.) Wasen (p. 104). To the
right are the three railway-bridges. A path to the right, 50 yds. beyond
the bridge, cuts off the windings of the road which ascends to the loftily
situated church.
Kear (^,'4 M.) Wattingen (2998') is the fourth bridge over the Reuss,
above which, to the right, is a fall of the Rohrbach (p. 104). The (1 M.) fifth
bridge (Sehonibriick, 3212') crosses to the left bank of the Reuss. To the
left rises the Teiifelsslein, a huge mass of rock. The ne.xt place (I'/a M.)
is Goschenen (3640'; p. 104). Thence to Andermatt, see p. 108.
The most interesting part of the line begins here. Above the
village of Amsteg it pierces a projecting rock by means of the Wmrf-
gdUe Tunnel (1828'; 189 yds. long), crosses the Karstelenbach by
an imposing iron bridge (147yds. long, 177' high; line view of the
deeply-cut Maderaner Thai, with the Grosse Windgalle, to the left,
and of the Reussthal to the right), and is then carried through the
slope of the Bristenstock, which is much exposed to avalanches, by
means of the two Bristenlaui Tunnels (436 yds. and 234 yds. long),
and across the brawling Reuss by an iron bridge 256' high. We
now follow the left bank of the picturesque Reussthal (views to the
left), traverse the Inschi Tunnel (96 yds.), cross the Inschi-Alphach
104 Route 30. GOSCHENEN. From Lucerne
and the Zraggenthal (viaduct about 100 yds. long), thread the short
Zgraytjen, Breiten^ and Meitschlinger tunnels and a long cutting,
and skirt tlie hillside by a viaduct to (50 M.) Gurtnellen ('2297' J.
Above Gurtnellen we come to one of the most remarkable parts
of the line, which in order to facilitate the ascent to Goschenen
(see below) passes through three curved tunnels and round a wide
bend. It crosses the Gornerenhach and the Hiigrigcnbach (line
waterfall on the right), enters, near the Pfaffensprung-Briicke
(p. 103), the Pfaffensprung Loop Tunnel (1635 yds., 3 min.), in
which it mounts 115', goes through the short Miihle Tunnel, re-cross-
es the Hagrigenbach (overlooking the Pfaffensprung bridge on the
left), and then traverses the Milhren Tunnel (2822'; 93 yds. long).
Then follow a handsome bridge over the deep ravine of the Meien-
reuss (p. 127), the Kirchberg Tunnel under the 'church-hill' of
Wasen (330 yds.), a bridge across the Reuss to the left, theWattin-
ger Loop Tunnel (1199 yds.; ascent of 76'), another bridge over
the Reuss, and the Rohrbach Tunnel (242 yds.). 55 M. Wasen
or Wassen (3055'), a considerable village {*H6t. des Alpes; *Ochs ;
Krone ; '^Post Restaurant), with a loftily situated church command-
ing an admirable survey of the bold structure of the railway. —
Over the Sustin to Meiringen, see R. 37.
The imposing *Mittlere Meienreuss Briicke (69 yds. long, 260'
high) and the Leggistein Loop Tunnel (1204 yds. ; ascent of 82')
carry us to the third or Upper Meienreuss Bridge (59 yds. long;
148' high), beautifully situated. We then pass through the Meien-
kreuz Tunnel (3250'; 84 yds. long), skirt the hillside, aiid obtain
a view of Wasen and the windings just traversed. Opposite rises
the Rienzer Stock (9785'). Crossing the Kellerbach and the Rohr-
bach, the train passes through the Naxberg Tunnel ( 1719 yds. ; ascent
of 118'), crosses the deep gorge of the Goschenen Reuss (bridge
69 yds. long, 161' high; view of the Goschenenthal to the right,
with the beautiful Dammafirn, p. 108), and reaches —
69'/2 ^^1- Goschenen, or Geschenen (3640'; *RaU. Restaurant, D.
3'/2fr. ; *H6t.Gdsche7ien, o-p^osite the station, R., L., & A. 32/4, I).
3-4 fr. ; *Rdssli, V4M. from the station, R.&A. 2, B.IV4, »• 3fr. ;
Hot. de la Gare; St. Gotthard; Lowe, moderate; Krone). — From
Goschenen to Airolo by the St. Gotthard Road, 22 M., see R. 31.
Immediately beyond the station the train crosses the Gotthard-
Reuss (p. 109) by a bridge 105' high, and enters the great St.
Gotthard Tunnel, which is 16,309 yds. (91/4 M.) in length, being
2930 yds. (1-/3 M.) longer than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The
central point is 3786' above the sea-level, from which it descends
on both sides, about 6' in 1000' towards Goschenen and 2' in 1000'
towards Airolo. The work was begun in June 1872, at Goschenen,
and a month later at Airolo, and the boring was completed on
29th Feb. 1880. During seven years and a half no fewer than
2500 workmen were on an average employed here daily, and the
to Bellinzonn. AIROLO. 30. Route. 105
number sometimes rose to 3400. The cost was 563/4 million fr.
(2,270, OOOi.). The boring machines used were on the improved
Ferroux system, worked by compressed air. The tunnel, 28' broad
and 21' high, is lined with masonry throughout, and is laid with
a double line of rails. As a current of fresh air (temperature 70"
Fahr.) constantly passes through the tunnel, it is unnecessary to
close the windows. The tunnel runs at a depth of 1083' below An-
dermatt, 6076' below the Kastelhorn (which rises above the centre
of the tunnel), and 3350' below the Sella Lake. Express trains
take 16 min. to pass through the tunnel, slow trains 25 min. ; lan-
terns are placed on each side of the tunnel at intervals of 1000
metres. To the right of the exit from the tunnel fortifications have
recently been erected.
691/2 M. Airolo (3755'; pop. 1733; *Posta, R., L. , & A.
3-3V-2, D. 4, B. 11/4 fr. ; Hot. Airolo, R. & A. 21/2 fr. ; Hot. des
Alpes, *Hdt. Lombardi, Hot. Rossi, all near the station), in the
upper valley of the Ticino (^ValleLeventina, p. 106), the first Italian-
Swiss village, rebuilt since a fire in 1877.
A drive from Airolo to Giornico in an open carriage is very inter-
esting (comp. p. 99; one-horse to Faido 10, to Giornico 19 fr.). — Bridle-
path through the Val Bedreiio and over the JS'iifenen Pass to Wallis, see
p. 303; over the iS. Giacomo Pass (7572') to the Falls of the Tosa, see p. 307.
Through the Val Maggia to Locarno, see p. 429. Through the Val Ca-
naria and over the Unteralp Pass (S3U3') to Andermatt (8 hrsO, fatiguing;
the ascent very steep. Over the Bocca di Cadlimo (8387') to S. Maria (p. 366)
in 8 hrs., attractive. — By Passo Bornengo to Val Maigels, see p. 364.
Feom Airolo to Disentis through the Val Piora (10 hrs., guide,
unnecessary, to Piora 6, to S. Maria 10 fr. ; porter, at the Hotel Lombardi
at Airolo , 15 c. per kilogramme up to Piora, 10 c. down ; horse to Piora,
3 hrs., 12 fr.). Descending the St. Gotthard road for s/4 M., we cross the
Canaria to the left, and ascend to (20 min.) Madrono (4110'). After 1/4 hr.
more the path ascends the slope to the left to (20 min.) Brugnasco (4548')-
It then runs at nearly at the same level, overlooking the picturesque Val
Ticino, and afterwards through wood. From (2/4 hr.) Altanca (4567'; Inn)
we ascend to the left in zigzags past a small chapel to (40 min.) Valle (a
spring by the wayside). The rock below it bears a very ancient inscription.
In the gorge to the right are several picturesque waterfalls. Fine retro-
spect of the mountains of Ticino. We next cross a rocky saddle to the
0/2 hr.) sequestered Lake Ritom (6000'), on a hill to the left of which
is the 'Hotel Piora (sheltered, and suitable for some stay; R. 2, B. 1, D. 4,
pens. 7-9 fr.). Pine-woods close to the hotel. Several good points of view
in the neighbourhood {Fongio, Plan'' Alto., Camoghi. Punta Nera, Taneda, etc.).
In secluded basins lie six small lakes (and there are four others just beyond
the ridges in the direction of the Val Cadlimo). Great variety of geological
formations and of plants. — The path to /S. Maria (3V4 hrs. ; porter 7 fr.)
leads round the lake, to the left. By the (20 min.) Bitom Chalets we ascend
the slope to the left by a narrow path to the (20 min.) chapel of ^. Carlo.
Crossing the brook, and passing a cross on the right (leaving the small lake
of Cudagno. with its summer-hamlet to the left), we reach (',4 hr.) Piora,
a poor hamlet, and (I/4 hr.) Murinascio, a group of huts. The path, indi-
cated by crosses, leads straight on for 1,4 hr., and then ascends to the
left. Farther on it always bears to the left. [The last huts of Piano de'
Porci lie to the right, below us. Persons bound for Olivone may from
this point cross direct by the Passo Cokimhe (7792'), between the Scat and
Fiz Colmnhe, to the Casaccia hospice; p. 366.] We ascend the secluded
Val Termine, with the Piz delC Uomo (9022') on the left, to the (^/t hr.)
106 Route 30. FAIDO. From Lucerne
summit of the TJomo Pass (7257' ; 10 min. before reaching which we pass
a good spring by a heap of stones), with its deserted hut. Descent on the
other side marshy at places. Before us to the right rises the Scopi, to
the left in the distance the Todi chain. The (1 hr.) Hospice of St. Maria,
see p. 3GG. Thence to Disentis, or across the Lukmanier to Olivone, see R. 95.
Below Airolo the train crosses the Ticlno, whicli descends from
the Vol Bedretto (p. 303), passes through the Stalvedro Tunnel
(209 yds.), and enters the Slretto di Stalvedro. On the left hank of
the Ticino the high-road runs through four rock-cuttings. The
valley expands. 73 M. Ambri-Piotta. To the left lies Quinio.
Beyond (76 M.) Eodi-Fiesso (3110' ; Hotel Monte Piottino') we come
to one of the most curious parts of the line (comp.the map, p. 103).
The Platifer (Monte Piottino) here projects into the valley from the
N. ; the Ticino has forced its passage through the barrier, descend-
ing in a series of falls through a wild rocky gorge to a lower region
of the valley, while the railway accomplishes the descent by means
of two circular tunnels. At Dazio Grande it crosses the Ticino
(striking view down the valley), is carried through the Dazio
Tunnel (388 yds.) and the short Artoito Tunnel, and enters the
Fregyio Loop Tunnel (1712 yds.), from which it emerges into the
Piottino Ravine, 118' lower down. It then recrosses the Ticino, at
a point where the scenery is very fine, passes through the Monte
Piottino and Pardorea tunnels, and descends 118' more by means
of the Prato Loop Twnnei (1711 yds.), beyond which opens the
beautiful valley of Faido. Crossing the Ticino by the Polmengo
Bridge, and going through another tunnel, we reach —
81 M. Faido (2352'; pop. 906; *H6t.-Pens. Suisse, *H6t. Faido,
both at the station; *H6t.-Pens. Fransioli, pens., inch wine, 7fr. ;
Angelo, R. & A. 21/0, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Prince of Wales, Italian; Hot.
VelUi), the capital of the Leucnfma, very picturesquely situated. On
the right the Piumogna descends to the Ticino in a fine waterfall.
The Valle Leventina, or Valley of the Ticino, formerly belonged to
Canton Uri, and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailifls, who
purcliased their appointment from the Landsgemeinde, as was the custom
in almost all the democratic cantons, as well as in the republics of anti-
quity. A revolt broke out in 1755, but was suppressed with the aid ot the
Swiss troops. The Fi-ench put an end to tliis mode of government in 1798,
and in 1815 the Congress of Vienna formed the Leventina and other Italian
districts into the new canton of Tessin or Ticino.
From Faido over the Predelp Pass to the Lukmanier, see p. 366; over
the Campolungo Pass to the Vul Maggia, see p. 429.
The train now carries us through beautiful scenery, richly wood-
ed with walnut and chestnut trees, on the left bank of the Ticino;
the numerous campanili in the Italian style, crowning the hills, have
a very picturesque effect. To the right lies Chiggiogna, with an old
church. From the cliffs on both sides fall several cascades, the veil-
like fall of the Cribiasca on the right, near (851/2 M.)Lavorgo, being
the finest. Huge masses of rock lie scattered about, interspersed
with fine chestnut-trees. Below Lavorgo the Ticino forces its way
through tlie picturesque *Biascliina Ravine to a lower region of
to Bellimona. BELLINZONA. 30. Route. 107
the valley, and forms a fine waterfall, while the railway descends
about 300' on the left bank by means of two loop-tunnels, one be-
low the other in corkscrew fashion. We pass through the La Lume
Tunnel (508 yds.}, cross the Fianotondo Viaduct (114 yds. long),
and then enter the Fianotondo Loop Tunnel (1643 yds.; descent of
115'}. Next follow the short Tourniquet Tunnel., the Travi Viaduct
(67 yds.}, and the Travi Loop Tunnel (1706 yds. ; descent of 118'},
from which we emerge upon the floor of the lower Valle Leventina.
Crossing the Ticino, we next reach —
90 M. Giomico (1480'}. The large village (1295'; *Fosta;
*Cervo^, picturesquely situated among vineyards on the left bank,
l'/4 M. to the S., has an old Lombard tower and remains of fortifi-
cations near the church of S. Maria di Castello. The well-preserved
church of S. Niccolh da Mira, in the early Romanesque style, is said
to occupy the site of a heathen temple. Below Giornico the train
crosses the Ticino by a bridge 132 yds. long. On the right is the
pretty fall of the Cramosina. — 94 M. Bodio (1086'; Posta^ Beyond
Polleggio (Corona^ the Brenno descends from the Val Blegno (p. 366)
on the left, and Is twice crossed by the line. The valley of the Ticino
now expands and takes the name of Riviera down to the mouth of
the Moesa. Luxuriant vines, chestnuts, walnuts, mulberries, and
iig-trees now remind the traveller of his proximity to 'the garden of
the earth, fair Italy'. The vines extend their dense foliage over
wooden trellis-work supported by stone pillars, 6-10' in height.
98 M. Biasca (^Rail. Restaurant ; in the village, 1 M. from the
station, Union ^' Poste, unpretending), with an old Romanesque
church on a hill (1112'}. A series of oratories near the station as-
cends to the Fetronilla Chapel, loftily situated, near which is the
beautiful *Froda or St. Fetronilla Waterfall. — To Olivone, and
over the Lukmanier to Disentis, see R. 95.
The train skirts the base of the richly clothed E. slopes of the
valley, which is very hot and dusty in summer, and traverses two
tunnels. lOl^/oM. Osogna (965'; PosJa) lies at the foot of an abrupt
rock with a rounded summit. 105 M. Claro (1027') lies at the base
of the Fizzo di Claro (8920'), a beautiful mountain with luxuriant
pastures, on the slope of which, to the left, stands the monastery of
S. Maria (2074'}. Beyond (1071/2 M.) Castione the train passes the
mouth of the Val Mesocco (p. 377} and crosses the Moesa. To the
left lies Arbedo (p. 377). We now approach Bellinzona, a picturesque-
looking place, with lofty pinnacled walls and three old castles.
109 M. Bellinzona, Ger. Bellenz (760'; pop. 3348; *Poste et
Pens. Suisse, R., L., & A. 3, D. 4fr. ; *Angelo; Hot. Bellinzona; Rail.
Restaurant), a.tov/n of quite Italian character,witli a handsome abbey-
church of the 16th cent., is the capital of Canton Ticino. It is com-
manded on the W. by the Castello Grande, on an isolated hill; on
the E. by the Castello di Mezzo, or di Svilto, and the Castello Cor-
bario or Corbi , the highest of the three (1502'). In the middle
108 Route 31. GOSCHENEN-THAL.
ages Bellinzona was strongly fortified by the Visconti and others,
and was regarded as the key to the route from Lombardy to Ger-
many. The fortifications have been partly restored of late.
The three castles were the residences of the three Swiss BaililTs (comp.
p. 106j , in whom the judicial and executive authority was vested. Each
castle had a small garrison and a few cannons. The Caslello Grande, which
affords a striking view, belonged to Uri, and is now used as a prison and
arsenal (visitors admitted; fee). The Caslello di Mezzo belonged to Schwyz ;
the upper, the Caslello Corbario, now in ruins, to Unterwalden. — Beauti-
ful walk (IV4 hr. in all) towards the S. of the town; up the road to the
highest castle, with charming views, but not quite up to the gate, where
the hill becomes more level and is planted with lofty chestnuts ; then
back, and through the vineyards to the conspicuous pilgrimage-chapel of
S. Maria della Salute, another admirable point of view; lastly, to the left
of the chapel, back to the station.
Ascent of the Monte Camoghi (from Bellinzona 7-8 hrs.; with guide),
see p. 425. — Over the Passo di S. Jorio to the Lake of Como, see p. 443.
From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como, see R. 108; to Locarno,
p. 426; to Laveno, p. 430.
31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard.
22 M. UinGENCE from Goschenen to Andermatt 4 times daily in 1 hr.
(fare IV2, coupe 1 fr. 80 c.); to Ilospenthal 4 times in l'/2 hr. (2 fr. 25 or
2 fr. 70 c.). No diligence from Hospenthal over the St. Gotthard. Omni-
buses from the Goschenen station to the Andermatt (l-l'/z fr.) and Hospen-
thal hotels (2 fr.). Carriage and pair from Goschenen to Andermatt or
Hospenthal 10, to the Hospice 40, to Airolo 65 fr. ; from Andermatt to the
Hospice 30, to Airolo 50 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 25 (there
and back 30 fr.), to Airolo 45 fr. Carriage with one horse from Goschenen
to Andermatt or Hospenthal 6 fr. ; from Hospenthal to the Hospice 15
(there and back 25 fr.), to Airolo 25 fr.
The St. Gotthard was probably the most frequented of the Alpine
passes down to the beginning of this century, but being crossed by a
bridle-path only it was gradually deserted for the new roads over the Sim-
plon, the Splugen, and the Bernardino. In 1820-32 the cantons of Uri
and Ticino constructed the carriage-road, which for half-a-century was the
scene of busy traffic ; but since the completion of the railway it has again
become deserted. Travellers will, however, be repaid by a drive in an
open carriage or a walk over the pass. Those whose chief object is to
make e.Kcursions from the Hospice will reach it more quickly from Airolo
than from Goschenen.
Goschenen (3640'), on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 104.
The Gbschenen-Thal (3 hrs. to the Goschenen-Alp, guide unnecessary;
provisions should be taken) deserves a visit. A good path leads by .46-
frutl to (fi 4hr.) Wicki (4350'), where the Voralper Reuss dashes from the
Kallbrunnen- Kelde, a ravine on the right; then by St. Niklaus and the Brin-
dlistaffel (5043') to the (i3'4 hr.) Gbschenen-Alp (6040' ; rustic Inn, with beds ;
guides must be brought from Goschenen), grandly situated. To the W.
descends the beautiful Dammnjirn from the Winterberg range (which cul-
minates in the Dammastock and Rhonestock); and 1 hr. farther up the
valley the Giischenen-Reuss i.ssues from the Kehle Glacier, imbedded be-
tween the Winterberg and Steinberg. — A moderately easy and very in-
teresting path (7 hrs., with guide) leads from the Giischenen-Alp over
the Alpligen-Gletsc/ier and the Alpligen-Lucke (9110'), between the Loch-
berg and Spitzberg (p. 115), to Realp (p. 115). The S.E. peak of the -Loch-
berg (94(X)'), which atfords a splendid view of the Galenstock group and
the Alps of the Valais as far as Mont Blanc, is easily ascended in '^ji hr.
from the pass. — Several difficult passes, fit for experts only, cross from
the Goschenen-Alp to the Rhone and Trift Glaciers (Winterjoch, Damma Pass,
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DEVIL'S BRIDGE. 31. Route. 109
Maasplankjoch ; comp. p. 126). Over the Susteii-Limmi (10,180') or the
Tliierherg-Limmi (about 10,500') to the Steinalp, 9 hrs., laborious (see p. 12G).
— Ascent of the Fleckistock()S/)(7>K6er5r, 11,214': guide 30 fr.") for experts only,
difficult. We ascend from Wicki (see above) through the Kaltbvunnen-Kehle
to the (11/4 hr.) Hornfeli-Alp (5850'; spend night). At the head of the
valley, in view of the Wallenbiihljirn, we mount to the right to the FlUtien
(7874'); then over loose stones and steep rock to the summit (6 hrs. from
the Hornfeli-Alp).
Atove the Goschenen station the *St. Gotthard Road crosses
the Reuss by the Vordere, or Hdderli-Brucke (3720'). On the left
are the railway-bridge and the N. end of the great tunnel. Here,
1/4 M. beyond Goschenen, begins the sombre rocky defile of the
*Sch611eneii (21/.2 M. long), bounded by lofty and almost perpendic-
^ilar granite rocks, at the base of which dashes the Reuss. The road
ascends by numerous windings, most of which may be cut off by
footpaths or the old bridle-path passing the dilapidated Lanj/eBrt^cfee
(a little above are the Goschenen water-works, with a considerable
waterfall), and crossing the (I1/2 M.) Sprengibrilck (4048'). The
road in the Schollenen is much exposed to avalanches, and at one of
the most dangerous points is protected by a gallery, 60 yds. long, at
the farther end of which is the bull's head of Uri.
The road next crosses (3 M. from Goschenen) the (1 V2 ^^•) ^Devil's
Bridge (^Teufelsbriicke, 4593'), amidst wUd and grand rocky scenery.
The Reuss here falls in a picturesque cascade into an abyss 100' be-
low, bedewing the bridge with its spray. The wind (aptly called
'Hutschelm', or 'hat-rogue', by the natives) sometimes comes down
the gorge in violent gusts, and endangers the hats of the unwary.
The new bridge, built of granite in 1830, has a single arch of 26'
span. The old bridge, 20' below, fell in 1888.
A battle between the French and the Austrians took place here on
14th Aug., 1799, with the result that the latter were compelled to retreat
over theOberalp toDisentis. A month later the tide of fortune turned. Suvo-
roff, after several sharp skirmishes in the Val Tremola (p. 112), with the aid
of Rosenberg, who had crossed the Lukmanier and the Oberalp, drove the
French before him. On the morning of 25th Sept. the Russians forced the
passage of the Urner Loch with severe loss, but were again checked at the
DeviTs Bridge, which was stoutly defended by the French. The latter at-
tempted to blow up the bridge, but only succeeded in destroying a stone
embankment by which it was approached. Kothing daunted, the Russians
gallantly descended under galling fire to the bed of the Reuss, succeeded
in crossing it and clambering up the opposite bank, and after a fierce
conflict compelled their enemy to retreat to the Lake of Lucerne.
Beyond the Devil's Bridge (cabaret; good collection of St. Gott-
hard minerals) the road winds upwards, passing a chapel beside
which a new fort is being built, to the (1/4 M.) Urner Loch (4642'),
a tunnel TO yds. long cut through the rock in iTOT, originally broad
enough for a bridle-path only. Prior to 1707 a hanging chain-bridge,
called the Stciubende Brileke, conducted the traveller round the Teu-
felsstein, through a constant shower of spray.
The Valley of Urseren , upon which the road emerges from the
dark Urner Loch , presents a striking contrast to the wild region
just traversed. This peaceful valley (p. 115), with its green pastures
ilO Route 31. ANDEUMATT. From Gbschenen
watered by the Reuss , is about 8 M. in length and V2"l M. in
breadth, and is surrounded by lofty and barren mountains partially
covered with snow. Corn grows here but scantily, and trees are
scarce. Winter lasts nearly eight months, and during the short
summer fires are often necessary. — ^/^ M. —
4 M. Andermatt. — Hotels: ■Hot.-Pens. Bellevue, a large hotel,
in an open situation, '/4 M. from the village, R., L., & A. 3'/r5, B. II/2,
lunch 3V'.;- K- 5 fr. (Kn;il. Church Service); adjacent, Hotel -Restaukant
vv ToiRiSTE, moderate ; opposite, Hot.-Pess. Nagee, small ; "Grand Hotel
Andermatt (opened in 1888) & Pens. Oberalp, at the upper end of the vil-
lage; 'St. Gotthasd, R., L., & A. 31/2, D. 4 fr. ; *Drei KOnige, R. & A.
2V2, B. 11/4, D. 21/2 fr.; Krone, moderate; Sonne.
Andermatt (4738'; pop. 720), or Vrseren, Ital. Orsera, liy'4 M.
from the Devil's Bridge , the principal village in the valley, is a
winter resort of invalids. Adjoining the church is a charnel-house
adorned with skulls bearing inscriptions (comp. p. 72). At the exit
of the Urner Loch, beside the cliffs to the left, is a much older
church said to date from the time of the Lombards. The Mariahilf
chapel affords a good survey : to the W. rises the barren greyBazberg,
in the background the Furka with its inn, to the left the Muttenhorn ;
a few paces beyond the chapel, the Six-Madun, or Badus(see below),
is visible; to the E. in long zigzags ascends the road over the Ober-
alp (p. 365). St. Gotthard minerals sold by Frau Meyer-Midler.
From Andermatt over the Oberalp to Coire, see R. 94; over the Furlca
to the Rhone Glacier^ see R. 33.
The Badus, or Six-Madun (9615'), the huge outpost of the Alps of the
Grisons, is ascended from Andermatt in 4'/2-5hrs. (toilsome; guide 13 fr. ; from
Tschamut easier and shorter, p. 364). The summit, which consists of hlocks
of gneiss, commands numberless peaks of the Alps of the Grisons, Bern, and
the Valais, and the whole of the Vorder-Rheinthal. — The Gurschenstock
(9423'; 4 hrs.) and GamsslocJ: (9728' ; 4V2 hrs.) are also fine points of view
(guide necessary). — Over the Unteralp Pass to Airolo (8 hrs.), see p. 105.
Between Andermatt and Hospenthal we observe the Glacier of
St. Anna, high above the brow of the mountain to the left.
51/2 M. Hospenthal f4800'; *Meyerhof, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. l'^,
lunch 3, D. 4-5, pens. 7-12 fr. ; *Goldner Lowe, R., L. & A. 2, B.
11/4, D. 3 fr. ; *Post, R. 2 fr. ; Schafli, both unpretending) derives
its name from a hospice which formerly stood here. The tower on
the hill is a relic of a castle said to have been built by the Lombards.
The Furka Road (R. 33) diverges to the right beyond the village.
The St. Gotthard road ascends in numerous windings through a
bleak valley, on the left bank of that branch of the Reuss which
descends from the Lake of Lucendro (p. 111). A short-cut di-
verges to the left by the second house beyond the Reuss bridge.
Pleasant retrospects of the Urseren-Thal and the jagged peaks of
the Spitzberge (p. 115), as far as the Galenstock to the W. To the
left of the bleak (3 M.) Gamsboden opens the abrupt Guspis-Thal,
at the head of which are the Guspis Glacier and the Pizzo Centrale
(p. 111). At a bend in the road (3/4 M.) is the first Cantoniera
(5876'), at the foot of the Winterhorn, or Piz Orsino (8747'). The
to Airolo. ST. GOTTHARD. 31. Route. Ill
road enters Canton Tieino, passes the second Cantoniera, and crosses
the Reuss for the last time, near its source in the Lake of Lucendro
(to the right; not visible), by the (3 M.") Rodont Bridge (6620')-
To the 'lake of Lucendro (6834') a digression of V2 lir. only. The
path diverges below the Rodont Bridge (on the left bank), leads over masses
of rock to the (10 min.) beautiful green lake, environed with snow-peaks
and glaciers , and skirts its N. bank. To the S. rises the imposing Piz
Lncendro (9708'), to the W. the Ywerberhorner (9265'), the Piz delV Uomo
(8820') , etc. — I'he path crosses the Reuss at its exit from the lake, and
rejoins the St. Gotthard road on the top of the pass.
On the (1 M.) Pass of St. Gotthard (6935'} the road passes
between several small lakes.
The St. Gotthard is a mountain group, with a number of different
peaks . extensive glaciers , and about thirty small lakes. The pass is a
barren vallev, destitute of view, bounded on the E. by the precipitous Sasso
di S. Gottar'do (8235'), and on the W. bv the rocks of the Fihbia (8995') and
the Pizzo la Valletta (8334'). The chief peaks of the St. Gotthard are: E.,
the Prosa (8983') and Pizzo Cenfrale (9850'; see bfelow); W., the Piz Lu-
cendro (9708'), Ywerherhorn (9265'), Piz deW Uomo (8820'), and Winterhorn
or Piz Orsino (8747'); then, more to the W., the Leckihorn (10,070'), Mutlen-
Aor» (10,184'), PSJZ20 Pe««ora (10,250'), Pizzo Rotondo {iQ^li^Q'), Kiihboden-
horn (10,080'), etc.
133/4 M. Albergo del S. Gottardo (6867'), 1/4 M. to the S. of the
culminating point, is a 'dependance' of the *H6tel du Mont Prosa
(R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 9 fr.), which stands opposite. The
latter is adjoined by the Hospice, now a meteorological station. On
a rock a little to the S. is the old Mortuary Chapel.
Excursions (guides for the shorter ascents at the hotel). 'Pizzo Cen-
trale, or Tritthorn (9850'), not difficult (31/2 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.). Beyond
the hospice we cross the brook to the left, and ascend the slope of the
Sasso San Gottardo over detritus to the entrance of the Sella Valley,
through which the route leads. To the left Mte. Prosa (see below). We
skirt the slope high above the Sella Lake (7320') and ascend a snow-field
to the base of the peak, which consists of crumbling hornblende. The
view is one of striking magnificence, embracing almost all the highest
mountains in Switzerland ("Panorama by A. Heim). — Monte Prosa (8983';
2V2 hrs.; guide 7 fr.), free from difficulty. By the hut above the Sella Lake
(IV4 hr.) we diverge to the left from the Pizzo Centrale path, and ascend
across poor pastures and patches of snow to the (3/4 hr.) saddle (8520') be-
tween the Prosa and Blauberg. Then to the left again, up the arete, and
lastly over sharp rocks to (1/2 hr.) the summit. The W. peak, 41' higher
than the E., is separated from it by a chasm 20' deep. View inferior to
that from the Pizzo Centrale.
The Fibbia (8995'; 2V2 hrs.; guide 7 fr.), a gigantic rock which com-
mands the St. Gotthard road on the W. and descends suddenly to the Val
Tremola, is fatiguing. Excellent survey of the St. Gotthard group, (he
valley of the Tieino, and the Tieino Alps. — Piz Lucendro (9708': 3V2-
4 hrs. ; guide, 10 fr., unnecessary for the experienced), a fine point, free
from difficulty. From the Lucendro Lake (see above) a good path ascends by
the Lucendro Alp to the Yicerher P'iss, before reaching which we turn to
the left and gradually mount the Lucendro Glacier to the S.E angle of the
Piz; then over rock to the summit. Descent to the Lucendro Pass (see
p. 112). — Leckihorn (10,070'), see p. 112. — Pizzo Rotondo (10,490'), the
highest peak of the St. Gotthard, is very difficult (comp. p. 303).
Ascent of the Sorescia or Scara Ovell (7350') , a pleasant excursion
(1 hr.). We descend the road to the S. to the Tieino bridge , and beyond
it ascend a narrow path to the left. Fine view, especially of the Tieino
Alps, the Cristallina, Campo Tencia, Basodino, etc. Descent to the Sella
valley unadvisable, there being no bridge over the Tieino.
112 Route 31. VAL TllEMOLA.
Passes. Ovjiii tiik Oksino Pass to I!eali% n(jt difiicult (4 hrs. ; adepts
need no guide). The route ascends to the N.W. from the Luccndro lake
over grass slopes, past the Orsirora Lake (8058'; to the left) to the Orsino
Pass (about 8530'), on the S.W. side of the Piz Orsino (p. Ill); striking
view (S.) of the St. Gotthard group from the Furka to the Fibbia. (N.W.)
of the Finsteraarhorn and Agassizhorn, and (N.) of the Galenstock and
Dammastock range as far as the Sustenhorner and Titlis. Descent to
Realp across pastures and brushwood.
Over the Lecki Pass to the Furka (10 hrs., with guide), fatiguing,
but repaying. From the Hotel we ascend the Valletta di S. 6ot(ai-do,
between the Fibbia and the Pizzo la Valletta, to the (2 hrs.) Passo di
Lucendro (8330'), whence the Piz Lucendro (see p. Ill) may be acended
(11/2 hr.). We then cross to the N. of the Piz (or descend from the Piz)
to the Wytlemeasser-Tlial and the Cavanna Pass (p. 115), traverse the Wi/t-
tenwasser Glacier, pass the HUhnerstock , and reach (41/2 hrs.) the Lecki
Pass (9556'), lying to the N. of the Leckihorn (10,070'; see p. Ill; easily
ascended from the pass in 1/2 hr.). Descent across the Mutten Olacier, past
the MuUenhorner ; then an ascent between the Thierberg and Blauberg to
the small Schtoarze Glacier, and down to the (3'/2 hrs.) i^«ri-rt Hotel (t^. 116).
From the Hospice to Airolo is a walk or drive of 2-21/2 hrs. ;
in tlie reverse direction 3 hours. In winter and spring the snow-
drifts on the road-side are often 30-40' high, and sometimes remain
unmelted throughout the summer. Snow-storms and avalanches are
most prevalent on the S. side.
About 1/2 M. to the S.E., below the hospice, the road crosses
that branch of the Ticino which issues from the Sella Lake (see
p. 111). By the first house of refuge, the Cantoniera S. Antonio
(6375'), the road enters the Val Tremola, a dismal valley into
which avalanches often fall, and descends past the Cantoniera
S. Giuseppe (6010') in numerous windings, avoided by the
old bridle-path. At the third refuge, the Cantoniera di Val Tremola
(5564'), the Val Tremola ends and the Valle Leventina (p. 106)
begins. *View down to Quinto. To the right opens the ValBedretto
(p. 303), from which the main branch of the Ticino descends.
22M. Airolo (3755'), 8 1/2M. from the St. Gotthard Pass, see p. 105.
Travellers going from the St. Gotthard to the Val Bedretto need not
descend to Airolo, but save an hour by leaving the road below the Can-
toniera di Val Tremola (see above), at the angle of the first great bend
in the direction of the Val Eedrotto. The path descends to the right, and
at Fontana (p. 303) joins the road leading from Airolo to AlPAcqua.
32. The Maderaner Thai.
Comp. Map, 'p. 62.
The Maderaner Thai, a picturesque valley about 8 M. in length,
enclosed by lofty mountains (N., the Great and Little Windgdlle, the Great
And. Little liuchen, and the Scheerhorn; S., the Bristenstock, Weitenalpslock,
Oberalpstock, and Diissistock), and watered by the turbulent Kdrstelenbach,
is worthy of a visit. Bridle-path (shaded in the early morning) from
Amsteg to the (31/4 hrs.) Jlutel Alpeiiclub (3030' above Amsteg; horse 12 fr. ;
porter 6, there and back within two days 12 fr.). Beiiutiful return-route
by the Stafel-Alpen (see below), G-7 hrs., even practicable for ladies.
Amsteg (1760'), see p. 103. We diverge from the St. Gotthard
road on the left bank of the Kdrstelenbach and ascend, passing under
the huge railway-bridge, by a good zigzag path to the St. Anions-
MADERANER THAL. 32. Route. 113
Kapelie ; then over gently sloping pastures, shaded with fruit-trees,
to (50 min.) the hamlet ot Bristen (2615'; the 'Caplan' sells good
wine). The path descends a little, crosses (5 min.) to the right
bank of the foaming Karstelenbach, and again ascends. After 7 min.
we avoid a bridge to the right, leading to the narrow Etzlithal (see
p. 114), in which a fine waterfall is visible. After 20 min. the path
recrosses to the left bank and leads to the (5 min.) houses Am Schat-
tigen Berg. It then ascends rapidly to (40 min.) a small cabaret on
the Lungenstutz (3600'), and (8 min.) a cross commanding a fine
view. Passing through wood at places, we next cross the Griessen-
bach and the Staldenbach to (1/2 hr.) the chalets of Stussi (3904').
Crossing the Karstelenbach at a (5 min.) Saw-mill, and passing the
houses of Balmwald on the left, in 25 min. more we reach the *H6tel
zum Schweizer Alpenclub (4790'; R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-lOfr.;
Engl. Church Service), adapted for a stay of some time. Fine view
from the terrace on the W. side of the house. Pleasant wood-walks
in the vicinity. The small Butzli-See is 1/2 M. from the hotel.
To the Hiifi Glacier, an interesting walk (1 hr., guide unnecessary).
From the inn a path, at first through wood, ascends the grassy slopes
on the N. side of the valley (passing opposite the falls of the Srunni-
bach, the Stduberbach , and the Lammerbach) , crosses the Schleierbach,
the Seidenbach, and the Milclibache, and ascends to (1 hr.) a rocky height
(5230'), overlooking the glacier, from which the Karstelenbach issues.
We may now descend to the end of the glacier (guide necessary, 3-4 fr.)
and return to the hotel on the left bank of the Karstelenbach, passing the
waterfalls above mentioned, and crossing the Alp Gv/ern (3-4 hrs. in all).
Beautiful return -route to Amsteg by the *Stafeln (6-7 hrs. ;
guide 8 fr.), the lofty pastures on the N. side of the valley. The
path first leads to the above-mentioned rock overlooking the Hiifl
Glacier (1 hr.), and then ascends to the (1 hr.) Alp Gnof (6235'),
the (3/4 hr.) Stafel-Alp (6290') , and the (1/4 hr.) Alp Bernetsmatt
(6553' ; Alpine fare and accommodation), commanding a magnificent
view of the Hiifl Glacier , Clariden Pass , Diissistock , Tschingel
Glacier, Oberalpstock, Weitenalpstock , Crispalt, Bristenstock, Ga-
lenstock, Spitzliberg, the Windgallen , and Ruchen. [A still finer
view, especially of the conspicuous Windgallen, is commanded by
the* Widder egg (7840'; I1/4 hr. from Bernetsmatt, with guide).] We
then descend rapidly to the pretty Oolzern- See (4636') and the
(1 hr.) Golzern-Alpen(ib83'; good drinking-water), and lastly in zig-
zags through underwood to the hamlet of (I1/2 tr.) Bristen and (1/2
hr.) Amsteg (to the station 1/4 hr. more).
Excursions from the Hotel Alpenclub. (Guides: Ambr., Jost, and Joi.
Zgraggen; Jos. Maria, Melch., and Jos. Tresch; A. Baumann ; Jos. and
Melchior Gnos and others ; ordinary excursions, 6 fr. per day.) The ascent
of the Dussistock [Piz Git, 10,703'- 6-7 hrs.; guide 20 fr.) is difficult and
requires experience. The path leads up the Brunnithal to the (2 hrs.)
Waltersfirren Alp (6332'), ascends to the left to the (2 hrs.) Resti-Tschingel
Glacier, and crosses it; we then clamber over the precipitous rocks of the
Kleine DUssi (10,280') and ascend the arete to the (2 hrs.) summit. Splendid
view. — The Oberalpstock {Piz Tgietschen, 10,925'; guide 20 fr.), presents no
serious difficulty to adepts. We either proceed from the Alpenclub Hotel
to the upper part of the (4-5 hrs.) Brunni Glacier (p. 114) , and ascend
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 8
I U Route 32. MADERANER THAL.
the snowy slopes, to the right, to the summit in 2-2'/2 hrs. ; or cross from
Amsteg to the upper part of the SlrinUhal by the Kriizli Pass (see below),
and ascend across the Slrim Glacier, reaching the summit from the S.E.
side (7-8 hrs., from Sedrun 1 hr. less). — Weitenalpstock ('J872'j, 7 hrs.,
very toilsome. — /i»v>/e«.s<oct (10,090'), seep. 103. — Piz Cambriales (10,588'),
4-5 hrs. from the Huli Club-hut (sec below), and Claridenstock (10,7'28'; 20 fr.),
5 hrs. from the club-hut, not very difficult for practised climbers. Kammli-
stock (10,787'; 20 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, laborious. — The Grosse
Windg&lle or Kalkstock (10,403'), from the Alp Bernetsmatt (see p. 113)
5 hrs , and the Grosse Scheerhorn (10,814'), from the Hiifi Club-hut 6 hrs.,
both very diflicult , require experience and thorough steadiness (guide
25 fr.). — Grosse Ruchen (10,295'), less difficult, but extremely fatiguing
(from the Alp Onof, 6-7 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.). — The Kleine WindgSUe (9800'),
from the Alp Bernetsmatt by the arete betvpeen the Kleine and Grosse
Windgalle in 3'/2-4 hrs., is not difficult and very attractive.
Passes. To Stachelberg over the 'Clariden Pass (9843'), 11-12 hrs.
from the Alpenclub Hotel, a grand and most interesting expedition, presents
no serious difficulty to experts with able guides (30-35 fr.). The route
ascends the slopes of the Diissistock (p. 113), on the left bank of the Hiifi
Glacier, to the (2V2hrs.) Cluh Hul on the finely situated Hiifi Alp (5905'; spend
night). Then a steep ascent for a short distance, over the moraine to the
(40 min.) Hiifi Glacier , and gradually up the Hiififirn and Claridenfirn to
the (3-3'/2 hrs.) Pass at the S. base of the Claridenstock (10,728'), command-
ing a fine view of the Todi, the Rheinwaldgebirge, etc. We then descend
the Claridenfirn, passing the Bocklsckingel , a rock with a hole through
its middle, and the G ems/ay re/istock (p. 62), and through the dificult
Wallenbach-SchUicht to the Altenorenalp, the Auengilter (p. 63), and (5 hrs.)
Staclielberg. Or from the Claridenfirn (keeping to the right before reach-
ing the Clariden Pass) we may cross the Hiifi Pass (9045') , between
the Hintere Spilzalpelistock (9852') and the Catscharauls (10,045'), to the
Handfirn, and then either descend to the left to the Upper Sandalp (p. 63)
or to the right by the Sandgrat to Disenlis (p. 362). — Another pass to
Stachelberg (12-13 hrs. from the Alpenclub Hotel) is the Kammliliicke
(9268'), lying between the Scheerhorn and the Kammlistock (see above), for
experts not very difficult. Descent over precipitous ice-slopes to the cre-
vassed Griesgleicher, the Kammli Alp, and the Klausen Pass (p. 64).
To Unteeschachen over the Ruchkehlen Pass, 8-9 hrs., laborious.
From the Alp Gnof (p. 113) we ascend precipitous grass -slopes, rock,
and glacier to the pass, between the Grosse and Kleine Ruchen , and
descend steeply through the glacier-clad Ruchkehle into the Brunnilhal and
Schdchenthal (p. 64). — The Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass (9180') is also toil-
some. From the Hiifi Club-hut we mount the Hiifi Glacier and the Bock-
tschingelfirn to the pass, between the Scheerhorn and the Kleine Ruchen,
and descend to the Obere Lammerhach-Alp and Unterschdcken.
To DisENTis over the Brunni Pass (8875'), 8 hrs., interesting but
fatiguing (guide necessary, 20 fr.). We ascend the Brunnilhal by Rinderbiel
and Wallersfirren (p. 113) to the (2V2 hrs.) Brunni-Alp (6988'), cross the
Brunni Glacier to the (2 hrs.) pass between the Piz Cavardiras (9506') on
the left and the Piz d'Acletla (9570') on the right, and descend through the
Acletta-Thal to Acletta and (3V2 hrs.) Disentis^(p. 302).
Feom Amsteg over tue Kruzli Pass (7645') to Sedkun, 8 hrs., fati-
guing. Through the Elzlilhal to the pass, 5V2 hrs. ; thence down the Strim-
thcil to Sedrun (p. 3G3), 2V2 hrs.
33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier.
The Furka.
Comp. Map, p. 108.
25 M. Diligence in summer daily in 6V2 hrs. (9 fr. 95, coupi- 11 fr.
95 c.); from Goschenen to Brieg daily in 12 (Brieg to Goschenen 14) hrs.,
with V2 hour's halt at Tiefenbach, and dining at the Rhone Glacier (22V2,
coupe 27 fr.). — Pedestjuans should allow the following times from Gii-
REALP. 33. Route. 1 1 5
schenen: to Andermatt I'/o, Uealp 2. the Furka S'/'J (return 21/2), Rhone
Glacier 2 (retuvn 2'/2) hrs. — Horse from Realp to the Tiefenbach-Schirm-
haus 5, Furka 8 fr. — Carriages : with two horses from Goschenen to
Andermatt or Hospenthal 10-15, with three horses 20 fr. (omnibus l'/2-2 fr.,
see p. 108); from Andermatt to Realp 15 and 25, the Furka 40 and 60, Rhone
Glacier 60 and 75, Fiesch 90 and 125, Brieg 125 and 185 fr.; from Hospen-
thal (Meyerhof) to Realp, with one horse 6, two horses 10, to Furka 20 (there
and back 25) and 35, Rhone Glacier 30 and 50, Fiesch 50 and 90, Brieg 70 and
120 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier to the Furka 15 fr.
The Turka Road, constructed chiefly for military purposes, and foi-m-
ing a convenient route to or from the Grimsel and the Bernese Oberland,
commands striking views of the Rhone Glacier and the neighbouring moun-
tains, and from Realp onwards should be traversed in an open carriage
or on foot.
To(5i/.2M.)Hospen(/iai(4800'), see pp. 108-110. At the upper
end of the village the road diverges to the right from the St. Gott-
hard route, ascends a little, and skirts the level bank of the Realper
Reuss in the hleak Vrserenthal (p. 109). On each side rise steep
grassy slopes, furrowed by numerous brooks, and overshadowed on
the N. by the jagged pinnacles of the Spitzberge (10,053')- 21/4 M.
Zumdorf (4965'), a group of huts with a chapel. Farther on we
cross the Reuss and the Lochbach, which descends from the Tiefen-
gletscher (see below), and soon reach (1^/4 M.) —
9Y2M. Realp (5060'; Hot. des Alpes, plain; 'Beim Hospiz\ with
the post-station), a poor hamlet at theW. end of the Urseren Valley.
Over the Alpliyen-Liicke to the Goscheneii-Alp, see p. 108; Orsiiio Pass
to the St. Gotthard, see p. 112. — From Realp to Villa in the Val Bedretto
(p. 303) by the Cavanna Pass (8566'), between the Piz Lucendro and Huhner-
stock, 5 hrs., uninteresting.
Beyond Realp the road begins to ascend in long windings,
which the old road to the right, 50 paces beyond the second bridge,
Y2 M. from Realp, avoids. (In descending from the Furka we
quit the new road a few hundred paces beyond the 50th kilometre
stone , and descend by a few steps to the left.) We soon obtain
a line retrospective view of the broad Urserenthal, with the zigzags
of the Oberalpstrasse in the background (p. 365); on the left are
the Wyttenwasserthal with the glacier of that name, the Ywer-
berhomer, and the Piz Lucendro. At the last winding of the road
(^Fuchsegg, 6595') stands a small inn. About IV2 M. farther on, be-
yond the Ebneten-Alp, is Tiefenbach (6790' ; *Hoiel Tlefengletsch,
D. 31/2, pens. 5-6 fr.), where the diligence halts some time.
By following the slope from this point and crossing the moraine, we
reach (l'/4 hr.; guide) the beautiful Tiefen Glacier, imbedded between the
Galenstock and the Gletschliorn (10,850'), where beautiful crystals (moi'e
than I2V2 tons) were found in 1868 (p. 138). — Over the Tiefensattel to the
Rhone Glacier (Grimsel, Tri/thiitfe), see p. 126. — Over the Winterliicke
(9449') to the GOscfienen-Alp (p. 108),6hrs.; descent to the Winter Glacier steap.
The road crosses the Tiefentobel and ascends, running high up
on the N. slope. The old bridle-path (not recommended) follows
the Garschentfud on the left, far below. On the right lies the
Siedeln Glacier, the discharge of which forms a fine waterfall;
above it rise the pinnacles of the Bielenstock (9669'). Before us
rises the Furkaliorn (p. 116). The (3 M.) —
11G Route 33. FURKA.
171/2 M. Furka (7992'; *H6l.-Pens. de la Furca, 50 teds, R.,
L., & A. 4-5, lunch 4, D. 5 I'r.) is a saddle between the Mutten-
horner on the left and the Furkahorner on the right, descending
ahruptly on hoth sides. Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps with
the imposing Finsteraarhorn and to the left of it the Oberaarhorn,
Walliser Fiescherhcirner, Siedelhorn, and Wannehorn, and to the
right the Agassizhorn and Schreckhorner. From the *KanzU, to the
right of the road, about 1 M. farther on, and from the upper part
of the Rhone Glacier we obtain a view of the Upper Valais and
its Alps (Mischabelhorner, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc.).
ExcuKSiONS. -Furkahorn (9935' ; 21/2 lirs.; guide 5 fr., not necessary for
adepts), to the N. of the pass, by a new path; very interesting. Admirable
panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, the Galensfock, St. Gotthard
group, etc. Not advisable to descend direct to the Rhone Glacier. —
■Muttenhom (10,180'; 3 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), to the S. of the Furka, a very
fine point, not difficult.
Galenstock (11,805'; 5 hrs.; guide 15 fr.), for adepts only, with an able
guide, axe, and rope. From the Furka to the (2/4 hr.) Rhone Qlacier (see
below), skirt its left margin , climb a steep snowy slope to the right,
follow a difficult arete of rock, and lastly mount very steep nevf; to the
overhanging snowy summit (caution required). View exceedingly grand.
From the Furka over the Lecki Pass to the St. Goilhard Hospice (10 hrg.,
with guide), see p. 112; over the Trift-Limmi to the Tri/thUite, sec p. 125.
To THE Gkimsel Hospice (p. 173), 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr. ; alpenstock and
nailed boots requisite). W^alkers may descend from the Furka by a good
path, diverging to the right from the road V2 M. from the inn, to the up-
per part of the Rhone Glacier in ^/t hr., cross it above the ice-fall in IV2
hr., and go over the (V4 br.) Nigeli's GrMli (8470'; view) to the (2 hrs.)
Hospice. This route is less to be recommended in the reverse direction.
The road follows the slope to the right to the (I74 M.) Oalen-
hutten (7900') and descends to the left in long zigzags, high
above the huge *Rhone Glacier (p. 302), affording admirable
views of its fantastic ice-masses. At the second bend of the road
a path leads in ^4 hr., over loose stones, keeping to the left,
to a point commanding the upper part of the glacier. In the
valley we cross the Muttbach (the discharge of the Gratschlucht
Glacier). The road is joined here on the left by the steep old
bridle-path from the Furka. It then gradually descends the slope
of the Lanyisgrat, and again describes several long bends, which
the old bridle-path, to the right, cuts off. Crossing the infant
Rhone, we now reach the (61/4 M.) —
25 M. Rhone Glacier Hotel, in the 'QletscV (5750'; p. 302).
From the Rhone Glacier to Bvigue, see p. 302 ; over the Qrimsel to
Afeiringen, see R. 52.
34. From Lucerne to Altdorf vii Stans and
Engelberg. The Surenen Pass.
Comp. Map, p. 16.
Steamboat from Lucerne to Stansstad 8 times daily in 40 min., fare
Ifr. 40 or 80c. (see p. 91). — Diligence from Stansstad to (14 M.) Engel-
berg twice daily in 3'/'.! brs. ; fare 4fr. 60, coupe 6fr. 40 c. (to Stans G times
daily in 20 min. ; fare 60c.); one-horse carriage 15, two-horse 25 fr. — Walk-
ers may dismiss their vehicle at Grafenort (9 M. from Stansstad , a drive
STANS. 34. Route. H^
of 13/4 hr., one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 16 fr.}, beyond which the road is
so steep that travellers usually alight and walk. (One-hopse carr. from
Beckenried to Engelberg, the route for travellers from the St. Gotthard,
15-18, two-horse 25-30 fr. ; see p. 79.) — From Engelberg to Altdorf over
the Surenen Pass, rather fatiguing (bridle-path, 81/2 hrs.; guide, 14 fr.,
unnecessary in fine weather ; travellers from Altdorf need a guide to
the top of the pass only, 8 fr.).
To Stansstad, see p. 91. The road leads round the S. base of
the Biirgenstock (p. 91), through orchards and pastures.
2 M. Stans, or Stanz (1510'; pop. 2462; Krone, R. 1, B. 1 fr. ;
Engel; Rdssli), the capital of Nidwalden, the E. half of Canton
Unterwalden , lies in the midst of a vast orchard , on which,
however, from 11th Nov. to 2nd Feb. the sun shines for one
hour only in the morning, between the Hohe Brisen (7894') and
the Stanserhorn (see below). Adjoining the handsome Parish
Church is the * Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 20), a fine
group in marble by Schloth. A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the
churchyard, on the N. side of the church, commemorates the mas-
sacre perpetrated here in 1798 by the French, who were exasper-
ated by the obstinate resistance they met with. The Town Hall
contains portraits of aU the mayors from the year 1521 ; below them
is a collection of Unterwalden flags ; also two French banners of
1798; a picture by the blind artist Wiirsch, who perished in 1798;
another by Volmar, representing Brother Klaus taking leave of his
family (p. 121). In the studio of the late painter Deschwanden a
number of his paintings are exhibited gratis. Fine view from the
Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery.
The Stanser Horn (6230'; "View) is ascended from Stans by the Blumatt-
alp, from Kerns (p. 121) by the Holzwang Alp, or from Dallenwyl (see
below) by Wiesenberg (S'/s-i hrs. ; guide convenient). — The Buocbser Horn
(5935'), ascended from Nieder-Rickenhach (see below) in I'/j hr., or from
Bechenried or Buochs in 3'/4 hrs., is another interesting point, command-
ing a superb view of the Lake of Lucerne from Lucerne to Brunnen, the
district of Schwyz, and the Engelberg valley from Stans to Grafenort.
The road to (12 M.) Engelberg traverses the valley of the
Engelberger Aa, between the Stanser Horn on the right and the
Buochser Horn on the left. In the background rises the snow-clad
Titlis. Near (21/4 M.) Dallenwyl we cross the Aa. On a mound
of detritus at the mouth of the Steinbach, to the right, stands
the church of Dallenwyl.
A good bridle-path, diverging to the left, ascends to (41/2 M. ; 6 M.
from Stans via Nieder-Biiren) the finely- situated health-resort of Nieder-
Kickenbach or Maria-Rickenhach (3830'; 'Kurhaus zuin Engel, pens. 5-6 fr.).
From this point the interesting ascent of the "Steinalp-Brisen (7890'; guide
not indispensable to adepts) may be made in 3V4 hrs. via the Ahorn-Alp
and the Sleinalp. Another attractive ascent is that of the Schwalmis (7373';
2V2-2V4hrs.; guide unnecessary), which leads by the Ahorn-Alp, the Bar-
falle (with a cross), and the BilM-Alp, and thence up the E. arete. An
interesting pass (4V2 hrs. with guide) leads from !Nieder-Eickenbach by
ilae. Buhlalpe (see above) and the ./oc/t/( (6924') between the Schwalmis and
the Reissendstock, descending bv the Bolgen-Alp to St. Jakob in the Isen-
thal (p. 84).
Beside the church of(2M.) Woi/'ensc/uessen (1710' ; Eintracht ;
118 Route 34. ENGELBERG. From Lucerne
Kreuz)is the hermit-liut (brought hither from Altzellen") of Conrad
Scheuber, grandson of St. Nikolaus von der Fliie (p. 121), whose
worship he shares. Beyond (3 M.) Orafenort (1885'; Inn, good
wine) the road ascends through beautiful wood. To the right, far
below, flows the brawling Aa. We next pass (41/2 M.) the small
auberge 'Im Griinen Wald', below which, in the valley to the
right, a hrook descending from the Triibsee (p. 125) falls into the
Aa. After another slight ascent, we turn to the left, and suddenly
obtain a view of the Engelberger Thai, a green Alpine valley, 5 M.
long and 1 M. broad, bounded on three sides by lofty, snow-clad
mountains. The Titlis with its ice-mantle stands forth majestically,
and to the left rise the rocky pinnacles of the Great and Little
Spannort(^. 119); in the foreground is the Hahnenberg or Engelberg
(8566'). Then (2 M.) —
14 M. Engelberg. — *H6tel Sonnenberg, finely situated, R., L.,
& A. 4-5, D. 41/2, S. 3, pens. 81/2- 11 fr. ; *Hotel Titlis, R. , L., & A.
3'/2, D. 4, pens. 7-lOfr. ; 'Engel, pens. 51/2-7 fr., rooms separated only by
board partitions; "Apartments at Dr. Cattanfs , adjoining, but without
board; 'KnRHAus & Pens. Muller, 6-9 fr. ; *Frau Dr. Muller's Pension,
adjacent; 'Hot. Engelberg; 'Hot. des Alpes, unpretending, pens. 5 fr.,
R. extra; "Pens. Hess, R. 2, B. 1 fr. Rooms at several other houses;
usual charges, R. l'/2, B. 1, D. 2 fr.; whey also procurable. Beer at
Waser's. — English Church in the grounds of th6 Hotel Titlis. — Guides:
Karl, Eugeti, and Jos. Iless; Jos. Kuster, father and son; Plaeidus Hess;
Jos. Amrhein ; Jos. Imfanger; N. Hurschler ; C. ^y'aser.
Engelberg (3315'; pop. 1977), loftily and prettily situated, and
sheltered from the N., is a favourite health-resort, particularly for
nervous patients. At the upper end of the village rises the handsome
Benedictine Ahbey of the name, founded in 1121, named Mons An-
yelorum by Pope Calixtus XI., and rebuilt after a flre in iTlQ.
The "Church contains modern pictures by Deschwanden, Kaiser, and
Wiirsch (p. 118j. High-altar-piece, an Assumption by Spiegler , 1734. In
the chapter -house two transparencies by Kaiser, the Conception and the
Nativity. The Library (20,U00 vols., 210 MSS.), which was pillaged by
the French in 1798, contains a good relief of the Engelberg Valley. Per-
mission to visit the monastery must be obtained from the abbot, to whom
a visiting-card is sent with a request that he will fix the hour. — The
School connected with the abbey is well attended. The Farm Buildings,
with the labourers' dwellings, are very extensive, and in the cheese-ma-
gazine several thousand cheeses are frequently stored at one time. The
revenues of the abbey, which formerly exercised sovereign rights over
the surrounding district, were considerably reduced by the French in 1798.
Opposite the Abbey, to the S., on the left bank of the Aa, are
pleasant shady walks, which are reached in 10 minutes.
Excursions. Oberschwand (4300'; Inn), affording a delightful survey
of the valley and the neighbouring mountains , is reached by a path
ascending gradually by Unterschwand in VI-> hr., or by a steep path ascend-
ing direct in 1 hr. — The Flvihmatt (135o'), 1 hr. to the N., commands a
magnificent view of the Titlis. — Pleasant walk (way to the Surenen Pass,
see p. 118), passing the church on the left, to the (^4 hr.) 'Tatschbach Fall,
which descends from the Hahnenberg. (To the left of this path is the End
der Welt, a rocky basin at the head of the Ilorhisthal. It may be reached
in V2 hr. : 10 min. from the church, and beyond the bridge over the Horbis-
bach, the path ascends to the left by the cafe 'Zur neiien Heimat\) Beyond
the Tatschbach we may cross the Furrenbach, which also forms several
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to Altdorf. SURENENPASS. 34. Route. 119
falls, and visit the (V2 hr.) dairy-farm of Herrenrviti (3897'; horse there and
back 5 fr.), the property of the Abbey, aflbrding a survey of the Firn-
alpeli and Grassen glaciers. — The Arnitobel, a gorge with a waterfall,
2V4 M. to the W., a pleasant and shady walk; thence to the right to the
(11/2 hr.) Arnialp (5267'), with a good view of the Engelberger Rothstock
and Uri-Rothstock. — Fiirrenalp (6073'; 2V2 hrs.); the path ascends to the
left before reaching the Tatschbach Fall, and then skirts the slope above
(beautiful view of the Titlis).
Ascents. The Bigithalstock (8515'; 41/2 hrs.; guide 9 fr.), the last part
difficult, fine panorama; the Geissberg (8904'; 5 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), rather
fatiguing; the Widderfeld (7723'; 4 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.), less fatiguing. —
Hutstock (8789'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), by the /wcTiit (p. 122), not difficult
for mountaineers. — The Hanghorn (8790'), an attractive point, is reached
in 6-7 hrs. (guide 12 fr.) by crossing the slope of the Schattband, in front
of the Hutstock. — Engelberg-Rothstock (9252'; 5 hrs.; guide 9 fr.), interest-
ing and not difficult. We ascend the Alp Ohhaag and the Plankenalp to
the (3V2 hrs.) Club Hut on the Ruchhubel (7562'), not far from the Griessen
Glacier; thence below the Rothgriitli (p. 84) to the top in I1/2 hr. more.
*TJri-Rothstock (9620'; 8V2 hrs.; guide 17, with descent to Isenthal
22 fr.) , very interesting. From the club-hut above the Plankeniilp (see
above) to the (IV4 hr.) gap (8878') on the S. of thel Engelberg- Rothstock;
thence across snow to the (1 hr.) Porta or Schlossstockliicke, adjoining the
Schlossstock (9055'); then a rather steep descent to the BliimUsalpjirn ;
again an ascent to the arete separating it from the Kleinthal, and lastly
up the Kleinthalfirn to the (2'/2 hrs.) top (comp. p. 84).
The Gross-Spannort (10,515') is ascended from the Spannort Club-hul
(6500'), 4 hrs. from Engelberg, by the Schlossberg-Liicke and the Glatten-
Jim, in 4'/2 hrs.; interesting, though toilsome (guide 25 fr.). — • Klein-
Spannort (10,382'; 6-7 hrs. ; guide 35 fr.); from the Spannort Hut by the
Spannortj och (see below) ; difficult climbing.
The 'Titlis (10,627'; 7-8 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) is most interesting, though
trying. It is advisable to go on the previous evening to the Hotel Hess
(p. 125; 21/4 hrs.; horse 10 fr.), in order not to have the steep Pfaffen-
wand (p. 125) to ascend at starting. From this point it is usual to start
at 2 a.m., in order that on the return-route the snow may be traversed
before the heat of the day. From the Hotel Hess the path ascends over
the Laubersgrat to the (2 hrs.) Stand (8033'), where a short rest is taken ;
it then mounts a steep slaty incline in zigzags, over rock and detritus,
to the (V4 hr.) Rothegg (9030'), where the glacier is reached. We ascend
the glacier, at first gradually, then more rapidly (step-cutting sometimes
necessary), and if the snow is in good condition we reach the (1V2-2 hrs.)
summit, called the Nollen, without material difficulty. The view, highly
picturesque and imposing, embraces the entire Alpine chain from Savoy
to the Tyrol, N. Switzerland, and S. Germany. The ascent of the Titlis,
though requiring perseverance, is perhaps the least difficult of glacier-excur-
sions. Descent to the Joch Pass (Engstlenalp), see p. 125.
Passes. From Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meiringen (guide, un-
necessary, to Engstlen 8 fr.), see R. 36; over the Storegg or the Jiichli to
the Melchthdl (51/2-6 hrs.; guide to Sarnen 12 fr.), see p. 122; over the
RothgrdlU to the Isenthal (10 hrs. ; guide 17 fr.), see p. 84.
From Engelberg to Erstfeld (p. 102) over the Schlossberg-Liicke
(8635'; 10 hrs.; guide 23 fr.), a fine route, but fatiguing. By spending a
night in the Spannort Hut (see above; 2 hrs. below the pass) mountaineers
may combine the ascent of the Gross-Spannort (see above) with this
pass. — To Erstfeld across the Spannortjoch (9610'; 10-11 hrs.; guide 25
fr.), between the Gross and the Klein-Spannort, toilsome.
To Wasek over the Grassen Pass (i3rf/'c"^cK/)e, 8917'), 10 hrs., difficult
(guide to Meien 25 fr.). — To the Steinalp over the 'Wendenjoch (8694'),
10-11 hrs., fatiguing, but interesting (guide 25 fr.).
The route to the Surenen Pass leads past the Tatschbacli Fall to
(I'/ihr.^) Herrenruti (see above), follows the right bank of the Aa to
(25min.) the frontier of Canton Uri by the Nieder-Surenen Alp
120 fioute 35. BRU NIG RAILWAY.
(4134'), and ascends to the (V2 1"".) iSio/feh" (4652'). After a steep
ascent to the (50 min.) Stieren Fall (best viewed from helow), we
cross (5 min.) the brook, and in 40 min. more recross it to the
Blackenalp (5833'), with its chapel. The path then ascends grad-
ually over snow, which melts in July, to the (IVahr.) pass of the
Surenen-Eck (7562'), on the S. side of the Blackenstock (9587').
The Titlis becomes grander as we ascend , and we observe a
long range of peaks and glaciers, particularly the Klein- and Gross-
Spannort and the Schlossberg, extending as far as the Surenen. On
the other side we survey the mountains enclosing the Schachenthal,
on the opposite side of the Reuss, the Windg'alle being most con-
spicuous. On the E. side of the Surenen the snow, which never
entirely melts, is crossed in '/4hr. in the height of summer. Then a
steep descent to the(l hr.) Waldnacht-Alp (4754'), which is visible
from the height in the long valley below. At a stone bridge (1/4 hr. )
the road divides. The very steep path in a straight direction leads
to (I3/4 hr.) Altdor f (j^. lOi); that to the right, crossing the
bridge, to (2 hrs.) Erstfeld (p. 102). By the latter we reach the
(5 min.) Bockitobel , with the picturesque falls of the Waldnacht-
bach (beyond which the guide may be dismissed), descend through
wood into the valley, traverse the pastures to the village of Erstfeld,
and cross the Reuss to the station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 102).
35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Meiringen and
Brienz (Interlaken) .
Comp. Maps, pp. 76, 144.
Railwat from Lucerne to (28V2 M.) Meiringen in 3 hra. (fares 8 fr., 5 fr.
95 c.) ; to (36 M.) Brienz in 33/4 hra. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 90 c). From Brienz
to Interlaken, steamboat and railway (1V4"2 lirs.). — Carkiage from Alp-
nach to Meiringen or Brienz, for 4 pers. 40, 6 pers. 50 fr. — Steamboat
(preferable if time permit) from Lucerne to Alpnach-Siad (3/4-1 V2 hr. ;
p. 91) ; the direct voyages are timed to connect with the Briinig Railway
at Alpnach-Stad.
The Briinig Railway, opened between Alpnach - Stad and Meiringen
and Brienz in 1888 and between Lucerne and Alpnach-Stad in June, 1^9,
considerably tacilitates communication between the Lake of Lucerne and the
Bernese Oberland. As far as (10 M.) Gisvvyl, i. e. about halfway, the
railway is an ordinary narrow-gauge line, >>ut from that point it sur-
mounts the pass (3295') alternately by means of the Tack-and-pinion' system
and the adhesive system, with a maximum gradient of 18 : 100. In point
of picturesque beauty, however, the Briinig Road is superior , and those
who visit the Bernese Oberland for the first time may still cross the Briinig
to Meiringen on foot, from Giswyl or Lungern.
Lucerne., see p. 73. The Brunig Railway runs to the S.W.
in a wide curve into the broad valley of the Allmend, and leaving
Kriens (p. 76), at the foot of the Sonnenberg, to the right, passes
(3 M.) HoTw (the village with its pretty church lies to the left), and
approaches the S.W. arm of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 91). 6V2 M.
Hergiswyl (*Russli), at the foot of Pilatus (bridle-path to the Hotel
Klimsenhorn, p. 93). The railway now pierces the rocky Lopper-
SARNEN. 35. Route. 121
berg by means of a tunnel, '^4 M. in length, and skirts the Lake of
Alpnach to —
8 M. Alpnach-Stad, the starting-point of the *PUatus Railway ;
see p. 91.
Thence the line proceeds through the partly marshy valley of
the Aa and across the Kleine Schlierenbach to (O^/o M.) Alpnach or
Alpnachdorf {IbSO' ; Krone; Sonne; Schlilssel). The church of Alp-
nach with its slender spire was erected with the proceeds of the
sale of timber from the forests of Pilatus, which were rendered ac-
cessible by a wooden slide, 8M. long, and were cut down in 1811-19.
Beyond Alpnach the train crosses the brawling Grosse Schlieren
and the Saarner Aa, the right bank of which it follows, past Kdgis-
wyl (on the right), with its large parquet-factory, to (81/2 M.)
Kerns- Kdgisioyl. The (IV4 M.) village of Kerns (1865'; *Krone;
Hirsch ; Rossli), with its pretty church, lies on the hill to the left,
at the foot of the Stanser Horn (p. 117) and Arnigrat (6720'). From
Kerns -Kagiswyl to Stans, see p. 92; to St. Niklaus in the Melch-
thal (see below), pleasant path, 21/4 M.
13M. Sarnen (1630'; pop. 3900; *Obwaldner Hof; *Adler ;
Metzger , moderate ; Hirsch , well spoken of ; Pens. Landenberg,
see below ; Pens. Niederberger, on the 'Boll', ^/^ hr. to the E.), the
capital of Obwalden, the W. part of Canton Unterwalden , with its
nunnery and Capuchin monastery, lies at the junction of the Melch-
thal Aa and the Sarner Aa. The Rathhaus contains portraits of all
the magistrates of Obwalden from the year 1381 to 1824, and one of
St. Nikolaus von der Fliie (see below), and a relief model of Unter-
walden and Hasli. The large church, on a hill, the cantonal hospital,
the poor house, the Niklas von der Flue Pensionat (for poor chil-
dren), and the arsenal on the Landenberg (1667'; fine view; pen-
sion, see above), are conspicuous buildings. The castle of Landen-
berg, destroyed by the Confederates on New Year's Day, 1308, for-
merly stood on the last-mentioned hill.
At the head of the Schlieren- Thai, S'/z hrs. to the W, of >^arnen, lies the
sequestered -Schwendi-Kaltbad (4737'), with a chalybeate spring and whey-
cure. The road ascends the W. slope of the Schwendiberg to (1 hr.) Slal-
den (2614'; refreshments at the cure's), whence a bridle-path crosses the
meadows of Schwendi and goes on , often through wood, to the C2'/2 hrs.)
Kaltbad. Thence to the top of the Feuerstein (6697') 2'/2 hrs.; to the
Schimberger Bad, 2 hrs., see p. 12S.
To the S.E. of Sarnen opens the Melchthal, an idyllic valley, 12 M. in
length, studded with numerous chalets. At the upper end is the Melchfee
(see below), whose waters are lost in a cleft of the rock, and 3 M. below
reappear as the Melchaa. At the entrance of the valley is St. mklaus
(2752'), or St. Klaus, the first Christian church erected in this district. The
ancient tower adjoining it is locally known as Heidenthurm (heathens''
tower). At the bottom of the ravine , 3 M. from Sarnen , is the Ranfi,
formerly a barren wilderness , with the hermitage of St. I\ikolads vou
DEB FiUE, who is said to have lived here for twenty years without
other food than the sacramental elements , of which he partook monthly.
After their victory over Charles the Bold of Burgundy in 1482, the
confederates assembled at Stans disagreed about the division of the spoil,
but through the intervention of the venerable hermit the dispute was soon
122 Route 35. LUNGERN. From Lucerne
amicably settled. After his death (1487) he was canonised. His memory
is still revered by the people , and there is scarcely a hut in the Forest
Cantons that does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus.
A road (diligence to Melchthal daily in 2 hrs.) leads by St. Mklmisen
to the (7 M.) village of Melchthal (2933' ; good quarters at the curd's) and
the (2 M.) Balmmatt (3150'), at the foot of the precipitous /2am),y?»/(; bridle-
path thence to the Melchsee, 2V2hrs. (see below). From Melchthal a roughish
path crosses the Storegg (5710') to Engelberg (p. 118) in 41/2 hrs. ; another,
more interesting, leads thither in 5-6 hrs. over the Juchli (7120'). The
NUnalphorn (Juchlistock, 7830'; fine view of the Titlis and the Bernese
Alps) may be ascended in 1 hr. from the Juchli. View still finer from
the Hiiistock (8790'), reached by good climbers from the Juchli in 2 hrs.
(comp. p. 119). — From the Melchsee (6472'; 'Hot. Frutt, unpretending,
pens. 6 fr.) an easy pass crosses the Tannenalp (6500') in I'/i hr. to the
Engstlen-Alp (p. 124); another, rather rough, leads over the Laubergrat
(7874') to (4V2 hrs.) Meiringen (p. 168). — The Bohenstollen, etc., see p. 168.
The railway crosses the Melchaa , which has been conducted
into the Sarner See (1552'), a lake 4 M. long, and I-I74M. broad,
■well stocked with fish , which it continues to skirt. The valley of
Sarnen is pleasing, though without pretension to Alpine grandeur.
At (15 M.) Sachseln (1598'; *Kreuz, with lake-baths ; Engel; Rossli),
a thriving village on the E. bank of the lake, is a large church,
erected in 16B3, containing thebonesof St.Nikolausand other relics.
Ascending a short distance, from the S. end of the lake, the train
next halts at (18 M.) Giswyl (1665'; Hotel de la Gare; Posthorn;
Krone), partly destroyed in 1629 by inundations of the Lauibach.
A lake was thus formed, and 130 yfears later was drained into the
Lake of Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard, beside the high-
lying church ; to the S.W. rise the Giswyler Stock (5950') and the
Brienzer Rothhorn (my). Beside the station are the relics of a
chateau of the Rudenz family.
The Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 169) may be ascended from Giswyl in 6 hrs. ;
path for the first 3 hrs. good, afterwards steep and disagreeable. Pedestrians
are recommended to ascend the old ''Brunig Road from Giswyl to (3 hrs.)
the Briinig Pass (3.396'; 'Hotel Briinig), whence they may descend to
(1^/4 hr.) Meiringen or (3 hrs.) Brienz.
At Giswyl, where the railway meets its first serious obstacle, the
'rack-and-pinion' system begins. The line ascends the side of tlie
valley at a considerable gradient (10 : 100), traversing wood and
crossing two torrents, and at Burgeln (to the right) reaches the
summit of the Kaiserstuhl (2306'). To the right below us as we
asc nd, we see the winding Briinig Road, and from the top the triple
peak of the Wetterhorn is visible to the S. through the depression
of Brunig. The railway now changes to the adhesive system and
proceeds, high above the picturesque Lake of Lungern (2162';
13/4 M. long) and through a short tunnel to —
22V2 M. Lungern (2475'). The large village (pop. 1763'; Lowe
^- Hot. Bri'miy , high charges; Bar, all belonging to the same land-
lord) is, with the adjoining Ober-Seewies, the last village in the
valley and lies '/2 ^- from the S. end of the lake, half of which was
drained into the Lake of Sarnen in 1836. — The Dundelsbach forms
a picturesque fall on the hillside to the W.
to Brienz. BRtJNIG. 35. Route. 1 23
The second steep gradient beg:ins beyond Lnngern; picturesque
retrospect. The train passes through the Kdppeli Tunnel (2970';
150 yds. in length) and ascends the wooded Briinigmatt-Thal (above
us, to the right, is the road), at a moderate gradient, which be-
comes steeper before (281/2 M.) Brunig (3295'; Rail. Restaurant;
Pension iS' Kurhaus Briinig, new), situated on the crest of the saddle,
not far from the old Briinig Pass. Fine view; opposite us tower
the Engelhorner (p. 167) and the Faulhorn chain (p. 163); to the
left we overlook the valley of Meiringen as farastheKirchet(p. 171);
at the foot of the mountains to the S. is the lower fall of the Reichen-
bach (p. 167); opposite is the fall of the Oltschibach (p. 169);
below us flows the Aare , and to the right is part of the Lake of
Brienz.
Fine prospect from the Wi/ler Alp (4856'), IV2 hr. to the N.W. of the
Briinig; more extensive from the Wylerhorn (6580'), 3 hrs. from the pass.
From Buunig to Meiringen, on foot in 2 hrs., attractive. From the
road, about 1/4 M. below the station, a footpath diverges to the right, and
crossing the railway, runs chiefly through wood to (3 M.) Hohfluh (p. 168).
Before reaching the inn we turn to the left, take the first turning to the.
right, and cross the pastures to the right again via Wasserwendi and
Golderen to the Hotel Alpbach and (3 M.) Meiringen (p. 168). After Hoh-
fluh we have a continuous and picturesque view of the Wetterhorner and
Oberhasli.
The railway has been carried down the steep rocky wall at a
considerable gradient (average 103/4:100; maximum 12 : 100) by
means of blasting, retaining-walls under overhanging cliffs, and
cuttings. We cross the brawling Grossbnch, Kehlhach, and Hausen-
bach (charming view at the Brunnenfluli), enter the Aaretbal, and
beyond Hausen reach —
281/2 M. Meiringen, p. 168. Thence to Brienz and Interlaken,
see R. 50.
36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass.
Comp. Maps, pp. 102, US.
Q'A hrs. : Im-Hof I'/i, Engstlen-Alp 5 (Lauenen direct from Meiringen
21/2, Engstlen-Alp 2'/2 hrs.), Joch I1/2, Triibsee 1/2, Engelberg IV2 hr. —
Horse from Im-Hof to Engelberg 15, guide 8 fr. — If the traveller can
devote two days to this interesting journey (still more attractive in the
reverse direction), he should sleep on the Engstlen-Alp, where an after-
noon may be pleasantly spent.
From Meiringen to (lV4hr.) /m-Ho/" (2054'), see p. 171. Two
routes lead thence to the Genthal. We follow the Susten route
(p. 125) to the (3/4 hr.) foundry in the Miihlethal; then, beyond the
(3/4 hr.) bridge over the Genthalwasser, ascend to the left through
wood to the (1 hr.) Genthalalp (see below). Or we may diverge to
the left from the Susten route at Wyler, 20 min. from Im-Hof,
cross the Gadmenbach, turn to the left again after 5 min., and
ascend rapidly through pastures and wood. Near the (1 hr.) chalets
of Lauenen (.3800') begins the Genthalalp.
A path called the '' ffvndschi(pfi\ shorter by '/s hr., but very narrow
at places, and somewhat dizzy (guide advisable), leads from Meiringen
124 Route 3(i. KNGSTLEN-ALP.
straight on for '/-^ M. beyond the bridge over the brook and then, ascend-
ing to the left, skirts the brow of the Hasliberg, aflording a striking
view of the valleys which unite at Im-Hof far below, to the (2Vi hrs.)
Latienen-lIiUten.
The path soon approaches the Genthalbach, and follows its right
bank. On the (1/4 hr.) Leimboden (3920') our path is joined on the
right by that from Miihlethal above mentioned (small auberge on the
left bank). We now gradually ascend the monotonous Genthal. Be-
hind us rise the Wetterhorner and the Hangend-Gletscherhorii at the
end of the Urbachthal (p. 172). In 20 min. we pass the Oenthalhiitten
(3993'), on the left bank of the brook, and after a slight ascent
reach (1 hr.) the SchwarzenthalhiUten (4596' ; auberge).
The valley now becomes more interesting. From the precipices
of the Gadmer Fluht (9750') on the right, which become grander
as we proceed, falls a series of cascades, varying in volume ac-
cording to the state of the melting snow , and we at last come
to eight of these close together (AchtelsassbdcheJ. The Enystlen-
bach, as the brook is named above this point, also forms several
considerable falls. The path crosses the stream and ascends, often
steeply, through beautiful wood, to the (lY4hr.) *Engstlen-Alp
(6033'; *Inn, R.,L.,&A. 31/4, D.4, pens.6fr.), a beautiful pasture,
with fine old pines and 'Alpine cedars'. (Excellent water, tem-
perature 40-42" Fahr.) *View, totheS.W., of the majestic Wetter-
horn; to the left the Schreckhorner; to the right the Bliimlisalp; to
to the E. the Wendenstocke and the Titlis. — The Wunderbrunnen
('miraculous spring'), near the inn, is an intermittent spring which
only flows in wet weather and in spring during the melting of the
snow, usually about noon.
Excursions. Walk to Melchsee-Fkutt (2 hrs.; guide unnecessary).
From the inn we walk to the N.W. to the waterfall and ascend rapidly
on the right side, soon obtaining a splendid view of the Bernese Alps
famong which the Finsteraarhorn comes in view to the left of the
Schreckhorner). At the top we round the grassy SpicherJIuh (6690') , pass
a small lake, and reach the (1 hr.) Tannenalp (6500'), a large Alp with
numerous chalets. We next traverse beautiful level pastures , pass two
other small lakes , and reach the (1 hr.) H6tal Melchsee-FrutL (6472') ; see
p. 122. — Ascent of the Erzegg (7140') from the Tannenalp, or from Frutt
1 hr., easy and repaying. — The Bofienstollen (8150'), a magnificent point,
but somewhat fatiguing, takes 2 hrs. from Frutt (comp. p. 168).
Ascents. Schafbevij {Owartler; 7950'; 2 hrs.) not difficult; Grauslock
(8737'; 21/2-3 hrs. ; with guide), fatiguing; Wildgeissberg (8904': 3 hrs. ; with
guide), an admirable point, hut rather laborious (comp. p. 119). — Wenden-
slock (9990'; 4 hrs. ; with guide), difficult, for experts only; imposing view.
The ascent of the 'Titlis (p. 119) is shorter from the Engstlen-Alp than
from Engelberg (p. 118). From the (IV2 hr.) Joch Pass we ascend to the
right over rocks, debris, and snow, and reach the (3V2-4 hrs.) top after a
steep and fatiguing climb. Guide from the inn 10 fr. (charged in the bill)
and gratuity (with descent to Engelberg 20 fr.). The start should be made
not later than 2 a.m., with lanterns.
OvEK THE Satteli TO (tadmen, 3V2 - 4 hrs. (guide 6 fr.), a fine route.
At the W. end of the Engstlen - See (p. 125) we cross the Engstlenbach
to the Alp Scltarmadlager, and ascend a narrow path on the slope of the
Gadmer Fluh to the (2 hrs.) Satteli (splendid view of the Gadmenthal,
Trift Glacier, and Bernese Alps). Then a long and steep descent to (1V2-2
JOCH PASS. 30. Route. 125
hrs.) Oadmen (p. 126). A still finer view is obtained from the 'AchteUass-
grat (^GrdtW), 1/2 hr. beyond the Satteli and a few hundred feet lower.
For 1/2 lir. the bridle-path to (31/2 hrs.) Engelberg skirts the
EngsUen-See (6075'), a lake II/4 M. long, abounding in trout,
and then ascends, in view of the Wendenstocke , with the Pfaffen
and Joch Glaciers, to the (1 hr.) Joch Pass (7245'; view limited).
A tolerable path now descends over rock and detritus to the
(Va^ir.) Obere Triibsee-Alp, on the S.E. side of the turbid Triibsee
(5795') and then leads to the N.E. through the flat and marshy
valley (with the Triibsee on the left) , and across the brook which
descends from the glaciers of the Titlis, to the (3/4 M.) *Hotel Hess,
on the summit of the Pfaffenwand (5870'). The line view hence
of the Titlis and the Engelberger-Thal is surpassed by that from
the Bitzistock (6225'; easily ascended in 20 min. from the hotel),
which includes also the Schlossberg, Spannorter, and other moun-
tains. Ascent of the Titlis, see p. 119.
The path now descends the steep Pfaffenwand in zigzags, leads
over the Gersc/mJAi;? (4125') towards a clump of pines, enters a wood,
crosses theEn^cifteryerAaatthefoot of the hill, and reaches (I'/'i^r.)
Engelberg (p. 118).
37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass.
Comj). Maps, ;jp. 102, 118, lOS.
12 hrs. : Im-Hof IV4, Gadmen 3, Am Stein 23/4, Susten-Scheidegg IVi,
Meien 23/4, Wasen 1 hr. Horse 35 (or, for two days, 40), guide 21 fr. (un-
necessary).
From Meiringen to Im-Hof (2055'), IV4 hr., see p. 171. The
Susten Road, constructed by Bern and Uri in 1811, and still
tolerably well kept on the Bernese side (practicable for driving as
far as the Stein Inn), diverges here to the E. from the Grimsel route.
It traverses pleasant meadows and wooded slopes , and skirts the
winding Gadmenbach. At one time the Wetterhorn, Wellborn, and
Engelhorner, at another the Schwarzhorn group form the back-
ground towards the W.
The lower valley is called the Miihlethal, above which is the Nes-
senthal. Beyond (20 min.) Wyler the path to the Engstlen-Alp
(p. 124) diverges to the left. The road crosses (10 min.) the Gadmen-
bach, and at an (1/4 hr.) old iron-foundry the Genthalbach, on the
left bank of which a second path (see p. 123) to the Engstlen-Alp
diverges. At (2/4 hr.) Miihlestalden (3117') the narrow Triftthal
opens towards the S.E., with the Trift Glacier in the background.
Triftthal (comp. Map, p. 108; 41/2 brs. to the clnb-hnt; guide neces-
sary ; Andr. v. Weissenfluh of Miihlestalden ; Joh. Moor and Joh. Luchs of
Gadmen). The path ascends on the left bank of the Tviftbach and on the
left side of the ice-fall to the (3 hrs.) simple Windegg-HiUte (.6237'). We now
cross the glacier, here tolerably level, and mount the steep rocks of the
Thdllistock to the (l'/2 hr.) aub JIul {Trlfthiitte, 8250'), affording a good
survey of the upper basin of the Trift Glacier. From the club-hut over
the Trift-limmi (10,170') and the Uhone Glacier to the Fi(rka (p. 1161 or
to the Grimsel Hospice (p. 173l, 9 hrs., fatiguing. — The Dammastock
126 Route 37. SUSTENPASS.
(11,910'; splendid view) is ascended without very serious difficulty from
the club-hut in 4-5 brs. (descent by the Rhone Glacier and Nagelisgratli
to the Grimsel, 7 brs.). — The Schneestock (^llfiQT), Thieralplistuck (11,1^),
and Diec/iterhorn ili.,V2(y) may also be ascended from the club-hut without
difficulty. — Passes to the Goschenen-Alp over the Winterberg liainje {Maas-
plankjoc/i, Damma Pass, Winterjoch) difficult (comp. p. 108). — Over the
Tiefensatlel (about 10,820') and the Tiefen Glacier (p. 115) to the Furka,
interesting, and in certain states of the snow not difficult. — Interesting
passes also cross the Furtwang Sattel (8392') to GiUtannen (a steep ascent
of 3 brs. from the Windegg ; descent by the Sleinhaus-Alp to Guttannen
in 2 hrs.), and the Stein-Limmi (8970') to the Stein-Alp. The latter route
leads from the chalet of GraggiSiitte, opposite the Windegg on the right
side of the glacier, in 3 hrs. to the col, between the Giglisiock and Vorder-
Thierberg, and descends over the Stein-Limmi Glacier and round the slopes
of the Thaleggli to the (2 hrs.) Stein Inn (see below). By combining the
two last-named passes, a good walker may reach the Stein Inn from Gut-
tannen in a single day (11-12 hrs.).
The road crosses the Gadmenbach and ascends by Schaftelen to
(1 hr.) TJnterfuren (3848'), where the beautiful Oadmenthal begins,
and(20min.)the village of Gadmen(3945'; Inn, moderate), consist-
ing of the hamlets of An der Egg, Biihl, and Obermatt. (Path over the
Sdtteli to the Engstlen-Alp, see p. 125.) The green valley with its
fine old maple-trees contrasts strikingly with the barren and perpen-
dicular Oadmer Fluh (see p. 124). To the E., on the slope of the
Uratstocke (9545'), lies the Wenden Glacier.
After a level stretch, the road ascends through wood in numer-
ous windings to the chalets of Feldmoos (4935), and then traverses
a wild rocky region ('Holle') to the (2i/2 hrs.) Stein Inn (6122'),
at the foot of the huge *Stein Glacier.
Over the Susten-Limmi to the Goschenen-Alp, 9 hrs., laborious. We
ascend the slopes of the Thaleggli (on the W. side of the Stein Glacier),
cross the Stein-Limmi Glacier to the Thierbergli, and traverse the neve of
tlie Stein Glacier to the Susten-Limmi (10,180'), lying to the S.W. of the
Gletscherhorn (11,457'). Descent over the Siisten Glacier to the Kehlen-Alp
(7562') and across the Kelde Glacier to the Hintere Riithe and Gbschentn-
Alp (p. lOS). — A similar pass is the Thierberg-Limmi (about 10,500'):
we cross the Stein Glacier to the Joch between the Steinberg and the
Jlittier-Thierberg, and descend the Kehle Glacier to the Goschenen-Alp. —
Ascent of the Brunnenstock (11,5200, the highest of the Suitenhbrner ,
toilsome, but interesting (guide 30 fr.).
Over the Stein-Limmi to the Trift Glacier (5 hrs. to the Graggi Hut), see
above. Another route crosses the snowy pass of Zwischen-Thierbergen
(about 9780'), between the Vorder- and the Sinter- Thierberg , to the (5-G
hrs.) Tri/thiitte (p. 125). — To Engelberg over the Wendenjoch, see p. 119.
The bridle-path now ascends above the moraine , making a
long circuit to the right (which a footpath cuts off), and overlooking
the grand Stein Glacier, environed by the Sustenhorner, Susten-
limmi, Gwachtenhorn, Vorder- and Hinter-Thierberg, and Gigli-
stock, to the (I74 hr.) Susten-Scheidegg (7420'), which affords an
admirable survey of the imposing mountains bounding the Meien-
thal on the N. and culminating in the Spannorter (p. 119).
The path, now uninteresting, winds down to the Meienhach,
a brook issuing from the Kalchthal, a wild gorge on the right, into
which avalanches frequently fall from the Stiicklistock (10,855')
and the SustenliiJrner (see above). Below us lie the Susten-Alp
ENTLEBUCH. 3.9. Route. 127
(5767'), on the right, and the (1 hr.) Gufer flatten- Alp (5725') on
the left. The path, now level, traverses the stony valley of theMeien-
Reiiss, which consists here of several branches, and crosses the brook
twice. It next crosses the deep ravine of the (8/4 hr.) Qorezmeitlen-
bach (5137'), and passes the Gorezmettlen-Alp . Several brooks issue
from the Ruttifirn on the right.
The first group of houses ("20 min.) is Fdrnigen (4787' ; Inn,
poor); then (40 min.) Meien (4330'; Inn above the chapel), con-
sisting of several hamlets (Dorfli, Hiisen, etc.). Above Wasen we
pass the Meienschanz (3600'), an intrenchment erected in 1712
during the Religious War (p. 158), and destroyed by the French
In 1799. Descending rapidly for a short distance, and crossing the
St. Gotthard Railway, we at length reach (1 hr.) Wasen (p. 104).
38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal.
59 M. Railway (Jura-Beni-Lucenie), 3-4 hrs. (lil'r., 7fr. 50, 5fr. 30c.).
Lucerne, see p. 73. — Near the Reuss bridge the train diverges
to the left from the Ziirich line (p. 71), and passes through a
tunnel under the Zimmeregg, 1248yds. long, into the broad dale of
the Kleine Emme. 3 M. Littau, at the base of the wooded Sonnenberg
(p. 77); 71/2 M. Matters (1693'; Kreuz), with a handsome church.
Road hence to (21/2 M.) Schwarzenberg (2760'; "Weisses Kreuz, 'pens'.
incl. R. 41,2-5 fr. ; 'Kurhaus Matt, moderate), on the hill to the S., a
pleasant summer-resort. About 2 fll. above it is the rustic Kurhaus Eigen-
thal (Mlb') . in a sheltered situation. (Fine view of Lucerne and its lake
from the Wiirzenegg.) Hence to (6 M.) Kries, via Herrtjottswald, see p. 77.
From Schachen (see below), the old Brajiegg Road leads past the (2M.)
Farnbiihler Bad (2310'), a well-organised Kurhaus, with a spring impreg-
nated with iron and soda, and over the Bramegg (3366') to (5 31.) Entlebuch.
Above Schachen (11/2 M. from Malters) the valley contracts.
The train approaches the Emme, and crosses it near Werthenstein
(on the left), with its handsome old monastery, now a deaf-and-
dumb asylum. Beyond a short tunnel we reach (12'/2 M-) WoM-
hausen (1873'; pop. 1659; Rossli; Kreuz), a large village, divided
by the Emme into Wohlhausen-Wigg em on the left bank, and Wohl-
hausen-Markt opposite. — About 6 M. to the W., at the foot of the
Napf (seep. 128), lies the Kurhaus Menzberg (3314'), a health-resort.
We here enter the Entlebuch, a valley 15 M. long, with rich
pastures. The train recrosses the Emme and ascends the E. side
of the valley (several embankments and four tunnels).
171/2 M. Entlebuch (2225' ; ""Hotel du Port; Drei Konige; *Dr.
Kdgg's Pension}, a well-built village, picturesquely situated. —
Ascent of the Napf, see p. 128.
In the Entlenthal, on the W. side of the Schimherg (p. 123), 8 M. to
the S., is the Schimberger Bad (4677'), with an alkaline sulphur-spring.
Road from Entlebuch to (6 M.) the Entlenbriicke ; thence by a bridle-
path (carriage to the bridge 8, for two persons 10 fr. ; horse to the bridge 7,
to the Baths 10 fr.) to the well-equipped Kurhaus, the property of Dr. Schifl-
mann , was destroyed by fire in 1885, but has been rebuilt. Close to the
bouse are pleasant wood-walks with charuiing views towards the N. ; and
128 Route 3H. EMMENTHAL.
a good path ascend-s in 1 hr. to the top of the Schimbei'g (5968'J, which
affords an admirable Alpine panorama. Interesting longer excursions
to (I'/ohr.) UeiligJcreuz (see below); to the (2',;.> hrs.) "Feuerstein (eTOC),
with fine view ; to the (2V2 hrs.) Schwendi-Kalthad (p. 121), etc.
The train crosses the rapid Entlenbach , which here falls into
the Emme. On the left lies the village of Hasle, prettily situated.
22 M. Schupfheim (2388'; pop. 2800; Adler; RdssU), the
capital of the valley. About ^2 ^^- from the station is the Badhaus
and Kurliaus Schilpfheim , with a chalybeate spring containing io-
dine. To the E. (17.2hr.) is Heiligkreuz (3700'; a rustic inn), a
summer-resort, with a fine view.
A road (diligence twice daily) leads hence to the S. through the valley
of the Kleine Emme, the upper part of which is rocky and narrow, and
past the pretty village of Flilhli (Hdt.-Pens. Kreuzhiich), to (10 M.) Soren-
berg (3812'; *Inn), in the upper Emmenthal, or Marienthal. Guide thence
to the (4 hrs.) summit of the Brienzer Rothhorn (p. 169), from which a bridle-
path descends to (2 hrs.) Brienz. Comp. p. 169.
We now cross the Kleine Emme, which rises on the Brienzer
Rothhorn, and ascend the valley of the Weisse Emme to —
26 M. Escholzmatt (2815'; *Lbwe; Krone), a scattered village
(3085 inhab.), on the watershed between the Entlebuch and Em-
menthal; then descend to (29 M.) Wiggen ('1%QQ' \ Rossli), follow
the right bank of the Ilfis , and reach (321/2 M.) Trubschachen
(2396'), at the confluence of the Trubbach and Ilfls, the first village
in Canton Bern.
The ~Napf (4020'; 3>/2-4 hrs., guide unnecessary ; "Inn at the top, visited
as a health-resort, pens. 5-6 fr.), to the N. of Trubschachen, is an admirable
point of view. A carriage-road leads via (2'/4 M.) Trub (2675'; Inn) to
(6 M.) jl/e<??ere (3454' ; carriage for 1 pers. to this point, 6 fr.), and a bridle-
path thence to the P/-» '^''•) top of the Kapf, whence there is a fine pano-
rama from the Sentis to the Dole, and a beautiful view of the Bernese
Alps. — From Entlebuch (p. 127) a road crosses the Grosse and the Kleine
Emme, to the W.; we then either follow the road by Bopleschwand to
(b M.) liomoos (2592'; Inn), or reach it by a direct path in 1 br. ; from
Romoos a good bridle-path leads to the top in 2'/2 hrs. more. — From
the Kapf a footpath, with an almost continuously fine view, leads via the
(6 M.) Ltisuhiitie (rustic inn), the Liideren-Gassli, and the Rafriiti (see below)
to (12 M.) Langiiau (guide convenient, 5-6 fr.).
351/2 M. Langnau (2245'; pop. 7582; *.ffjrscft, moderate ; *Xoi«e;
Biir ; Hoi. Bahnhof\ Hot. Emmenthal}, a large and wealthy village,
the capital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 25 M. long, 10-12 M.
wide, watered by the Jlfis and the Grosse Emme, and one of the
most fertile in Switzerland. The cheese of the Emmenthal is much
esteemed; the carefully kept pastures, the fine breed of cattle,
and the neat dwellings with their pretty gardens bear witness to
the prosperity of the natives.
Railway to Burgdorf , see p. 17. — The Bageschicand Hohe , 1 hr. to
the N.W. , commands a line view of the Emmenthal and the Alps; the
view from the Rafriiti (3950'), 2'/4 hrs. to the N. , is still more extensive
(Panorama Ijy G. Studer).
Beyond Langnau the train crosses the Ilfls and the Emme. 38 M.
Emmenmatt, 40 M. Signau (2090'; Thurm; Bar), 44 M. Zdziwyl
(Krone), thriving villages. It then skirts the Hurnberg in a wide
SEETHAL. 39. Route. 129
curve to (46 M.) Konolfingen, 3 M. to the S.E. of which is the fre-
quented Schwendlenbad (2830'), surrounded by fine woods. 481/2M.
Tagertschi ; 51 M. Worb (Lowe; Stern), a large village with an
old Schloss. Pleasing view of the Stockhorn chain to the left.
From Worb a carriage-road runs to the E. to (2 M.) the frequented
watering-place of Enggisieiu (2264'), situated in a pleasant mountain-valley,
and (1 M. farther) the charmingly situated 'Riittihubelbad (2414'; un-
pretending and moderate), with a saline chalybeate spring and a good
view, especially line from the Knorihiibel (3027'; 35 min.). Magnificent
views are also afforded by the Gummegg (3208'), reached via Walkringen
in 11 2 hr., and by the Ballenbiihl, the W. summit of the Htirnberg, reached
via Schlosswyl in 1^/4 hr. (descent to the railwav-station at Tagertschi in
20 rain.).
54 M. Gumlingen, junction of the Bern and Thun line (change
carriages for Thun, p. 139). Thence to (59 M.) Bern, see p. 139.
39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (Aarau). The Seethal
Railway.
291/2 M. Steam Tramwat in 23/4-4 hrs. ; 2nd cl. 4 fr. 85, 3rd cl. 3 fr.
30 c. — This 'Seethal Railway' from Emmenbrucke to Lenzburg offers a
pleasant tour, though dusty in summer. The gauge is that of the ordi-
nary railways, the carriages of which can run on this line.
From Lucerne to (21/2 M.) Emmenbriiclr^, see p. 20; here we
change carriages for the 'Seethalbahn', whic'u diverges to the right.
4 M. Emmen (1410'; Stern), near the Reuss, on the right bank
of which, 1/2 M. to the E., is the old nunnery of Rathhausen, now
an asylum for poor children. We traverse the fertile Emmenboden
to (6M.) Waldibruck. The line quits the road, here unsuitable for
a tramway, and ascends, affording a fine view of the Rigi to the right,
to (8 M.) Esche'nbach(ibQO' ; Rossli; Lowe), with its large Cistercian
Abbey and valuable gravel -pits in the vicinity. (Diligence twice
daily in 40 min. to Gisikon, p. 71.)
Above Eschenbach the line rejoins the road, crosses at (9^/2 M.)
Ballwyl (1693') the watershed between the Reuss and the Aa, and
descends into the Seethal, belonging partly to Lucerne and partly
to Aargau, one of the most fertile and attractive valleys in Central
Switzerland. This 'lake-valley', IS'^ M. long, is bounded on the
E. by the long Lindenberg (2953') and on the W. by the Ehrlose
(2670') and the Homberg (2595'), and in the middle of it lie the
pretty Baldegg Lake (or Obere See') and the larger Hallwyl Lake
(or Vntere See), amidst pastures sprinkled with fruit-trees.
11 M. Hochdorf (1653'; *Hirsch'), a picturesque and prosperous
village, with beautiful pine-woods in the vicinity.
Excursions. On a hill to the E. (1/2 hr.) is the cantonal deaf-and-dumb
asylum of Hohenrain (2014'), formerly a command iry of the knights of
St. John, with a fine view of the Alps. Thence in II/2 hr. to Schloss Hor-
hen (2625'; p. 21), a health-resort, affording a superb view to the N. and
E.; then to the 0/2 hr.) ruined castle of Lieli, another fine point of view,
to ('/2 hr.) Augslholz (Hydropathic Establishment ; Hotel), and back to
(I/2 hr.) Hochdorf. The whole excursion may be made by carriage.
Baedekeb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 9
130 Route 39. LENZBURG.
To the W. of Hochdorf roads lead by Romei'swy I io (4 M.) Oherreinach ,
a ruined castle, with an admirable view of the Seethal and the Jura; by
the pilgrimage-shrine of Hildisrieden to the (5 M.) chapel commemorative
of the battle of Sempach (p. 20); and by Urswijl to (3'/2 M.) Rain, near
which is Obei-buc/ien (2133'), ^where we obtain a picturesque survey of
Pilatus and the Entlobuch Mts.
121/2 M. Baldegg (Lowe) a pretty village with an old castle,
now a nunnery and girls' school, lies at the S. E. end of the Bal-
degger See (_1632'), a lake 3 M. long. Skirting the E. bank of the
lake, we next reach (15 M.) Oelfingen (Stein) , where the culture
of the vine begins. On the right is the castle of Heidegg , and
3/4 M. to the N. is the pretty village of Hilzkirch (Kranz ; EngelJ,
once a Teutonic commandery, with a seminary for teachers.
To the N. of Hitzkirch a road leads by Aliicis and Aesch to (5 M.)
Fahrwatigen (Bar) and Meisierschtcanden (Lowe ; 'Pens. Seerose), two large
and nearly adjacent villages, where straw-plaiting is the chief industry
(see below) ; thence bv Sarmensdorf, past Schloss Hilfikon, to Villmergen
and (5 M.) Wohlen (p. 21).
Still running towards the N. W., the tramway now intersects
the fertile plain between the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. I6I/4M.
Richensee, with the ruins of the Gri'tnenburg , which was destroyed
in 1386, staitding upon an enormous erratic block. 17 M. Ermensee,
a well-to-do village on the Aa. At (18 M.) Mosen the tramway
reaches the HaUwyler.See (1383'), a lake 51/2 M. long and I1/4 M.
broad, and ascends on its W. bank to — •
20 M. Beinwyl (1700'; 1682 inhab.; Lowe), a busy, thriving
village with considerable cigar-manufactories, commanding a charm-
ing view of the lake. ,,
Railway in 5 min. to (IV4 M.) Reinach (Bar) and in 9 min. to (2^/2 M.)
Menzikon (Stern), two industrial villages in the upper Winenthal. — A
pleasant excursion from Beinwyl is the ascent of the Homherg (2595'), ^ji hr.
to the N.W. ; beautiful view of the Alps and the Jura Mts.
The cars now run high above the lake to (211/4 M.) Birrwyl,
with its large factories, and descend thence to (2372 M.) Boniswyl
(Rail. Restaurant), a busy wine-trading place.
To Fahewangen diligence twice daily in 1 hour. The road leads past
the handsome old chateau of Hallwyl, the ancestral seat of the distin-
guished family of (hat name, to (l'/2 M.) Seengen (Bar), a large village,
with the burial-vaults of the Hallwyl family. About V2 M. to the S. E.
is the Brestenherg Hydropathic, formerly a chateau of Hans Rudolf v.
Hallwyl, built in 1625, prettily situated among vineyards at the N. end
of the Lake of Hallwyl. From Brestenberg we follow the E. bank to
Tennicyl, Meisterschicanden, and (2 M.) Fahrwangen (see above).
24 1/2 M. Niederhallwyl-Diirrendsch ; Ib^j.^M. Seon (Stern), a
large manufacturing village (1794 inhab.).
291/2 M. Lenzburg (1300'; 2457 inhab.,- *Krone; Lowe), a busy
little town on the Aa, with the large cantonal prison. On a hill
above the town, tOi.*he E., stands the old Schloss Lenzburg (1663';
auberge at the top; fine view). Opposite, to the W., rises the
Staufberg (1710').
From Lenzburg to Aarau and Baden, see p. 21.
III. BERNESE OBERLAND.
40. Bern 133
Enge; Gurten ; Zimmerwald, 139.
41. From Bern to Thun 139
Environs of Thun ; the Gurnigelbad. 141.
42. The Niesen 141
43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. St. Beaten-
berg 143
Sigriswyl ; Blume ; the Sigriswyl-Grat ; the Rothhorn ; the
Schaflnch, 14i. — TheFaulenseebad, 144. — Amnisbiihel ;
Gemmenalphorn, 145. — Xew road from Thun by Merligen
to Interlaken ; Beatenhohle, 145.
4i. Interlaken and Environs 145
Excursions. Heimwehlluh ; Harder; Scheinige Platte;
Habkernthal ; Gemmenalpliorn; Hohgant; Augstmatt-
horn; Abendberg; Saxetenthal ; Sulegg, 148-51.
45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. .Staubbach . . 151
From Zweilutscbinen to Isenlluh and Miirren, 152.
46. Upper Lauterbrunnen-Thal. Miirren. Schmadribach 153
The Allmendhubel ; the Obere Winteregg; the Schilt-
horn, 154. — TheSefinenthal. From Jlurren to the
Obere Steinberg, 155. — From Lauterbrunnen over the
Sefinenfurgge to the Kienthal, and over the Diinden-
grat to Kandersteg, 156. — P'rom Lauterbrunnen over the
Tschingel Pass to Kandersteg, 156. — From Lauter-
brunnen over the Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal, 157. —
Schmadrijnch, Lauinenthor, Roththal-Sattel, and Ebnc-
lluhjoch, 157.
47. From Interlaken to Griudelwald. Wengernalp . . . 157
The .Tungfrau ; the Silberhorn, 1.59. — The Jlettleualp ;
Guggihiitte, 159. — The Lauberhorn; the Tschuggen,
160. — From Grindelvvald over the Eismeer to Zasen-
berg, 162. — The Mannlichen ; Mettenberg ; Schreckhorn ;
Miinch ; Eiger, 162. — From Grindelwald over the Strahl-
egg and the Finsteraarjoch or Lauteraarjoch to the
Grimsel Hospice, 162. — • From Grindelwald over the
.lungfraujoch, Monchjoch, Eigerjoch, and Fiescherjoch
to the Eggishorn, 163.
48. Tlic Faulhorn 163
The Rothihorn ; Schwarzhorn, 165. — From the Scheinige
Platte to the Faulhorn, 165.
49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui.
Falls of the Reichenbach 165
The Wetterhorn ; Berglistoek, 165. — Rosenlaui Glacier ;
Dossenhiitte; Wetter-Limmi, 166. — Gorge of the Aare;
Hasliberg; Hohenstollen. 168.
50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz . . . 168
Brienzer Rothhorn, 169. — Road from Brienz to Inter-
laken, 170.
51. The Giessbach 170
The Enge ; Axalp ; Uinterburg-See, 171. — Ascent of
the Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 171. — From the
Giessbach to Interlaken, 171.
132 BERNESE OBERLAND.
52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier, Grimsel . . 171
The Urbach-Thal; GauliPass; Berglijoch; Dossenhiitte,
172. — The Kleine Siedelhorn; Unteraar Glacier; Doll-
fus Pavilion ; Ewigschneehorn ; Finsteraarhorn, 173, 174.
— From the Grimsel over the Oberaarjoch or the Studer-
joch to Fiesch, 176.
53. From (Thun) Splez to the Gemmi and Leuk .... 175
From Spiez to Aeschi and Miihlenen, 176. — The Kien-
thal ; Gamchiliicke ; Biittlassen ; Gspaltenhorn ; Wilde
Frau, 176. — From Frutigen by Adelboden to Lenk ;
from Adelboden to the Gemmi, etc., 177. — The Blaue
See, 177. — The Oeschinen-Thal ; Bliimlisalp ; Dolden-
horn ; Friindenhorn ; Diindenhorn, 178. — The Balm-
horn ; Altels, 179. — Excursions from Bad Leuk ; Torrent-
horn, etc., 181.
54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass . . . 182
The Hohgleifen; Bietschhorn, 182. — From Ried to
Leuk over the Ferden Pass, the Gitzi-Furgge, the Resti
Pass, the Faldum Pass, or the Niven Pass, 182.
55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 183
Source of the Simme,184.— The Oberlaubhorn ; Miilker-
blatt; Iffigensee; Wildhorn; Rohrbachstein ; Wildstru-
bel, 184. — From Lenk to Gsteig, Saanen, and Leuk, 185.
56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal . . 186
From Latterbach to Matten through the Diemtiger
Thai, 186. — The Stockhorn, 186. — Bad Weissenburg ;
over the Gantrist Pass to the Gurnigelbad, 187. — From
Reidenbach to Bulle, 187. — From Saanen to Chateau
d'Oex, 188.
Time. A glimpse at the beauties of the Bernese Oberland may be ob-
tained in four days. (Quarters for the night are indicated by Italics.)
1st Day. From Bern by railvifay to Thun in 1 hr., steamboat to Darligen in
IV4 hr., railvi'ay to Interlaken in 10 min. — 2nd Day. Drive in I'/z hr. to
Lauterbrannen, vpalk over the Wengernalp and Little Scheidegg to Griii-
delwald (6 hrs.). — 3rd Day. Walk over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen
(63/4 hrs.). — 4th Day. Drive to Brienz (I'/z hr.), take steamboat to the
Giessbach, and return to Interlaken and Bern. — Most travellers, however,
v\rill proceed from Meiringen over the Briinig to Lucerne , or over the
Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier, etc. (Those who come from Lucerne gener-
ally cross the Briinig to Meiringen, and then visit Grindelwald, Lanter-
brnnnen, and Interlaken.) In any case the Giessbach merits a visit (after-
noon excursion from Interlaken). Another day or two may be pleasantly
devoted to Miirren, the Faulhorn, and the Scheinige Platte. — Those who
prefer it may omit the Wengernalp, and drive from Interlaken to Grindel-
wald (p. 153). Thence to Meiringen, and from Im-Boden to the Grimsel,
there are bridle-paths only.
Guides , Horses, Carriages. The charges are given in the respective
routes. Where there is no fixed tariff, the charge per day for a carriage
with one horse is usually 15fr., with two horses 30fr. ; guide 6-8fr. ;
horse or mule with attendant 15 fr., donkey 9 fr. For the usual route
by Lauterbrunnen, the Wengernalp, Grindelwald, the Scheidegg, Meiringen,
the Grimsel, the Fnrka, and Andermatt, no guide is necessary; on line days
the route is much frequented and can hardly be mistaken. On the other
hand a guide sometimes affords useful information, and will relieve the
pedestrian of his knapsack. The principal headquarters of the guides are
Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald, and Bleiringen.
Jt£n»
u,^/„„.^'/^_
Geo^aph.Anstalt-v
x^
Vaguer tDebei. Leipii^
BERN. 40. Route. 133
The pleasure of a visit to the beautiful Bernese Oberland is somewhat
marred by the usual drawbacks of favourite public resorts.- Contributions
are levied upon the traveller under every possible pretence. At every gate
he passes through is a group of children who expect to be paid for their super-
fluous services. He Is assailed by vendors of strawberries, flowers, and
crystals, by exhibitors of chamois and marmots, by urchins standing on
their heads" or turning somersaults, and by awakeners of echoes. Swiss
songstresses, neither young nor pretty, next appear on the scene, and the
nerves of the traveller are often sorely tried by the Alpine horn and the
Ranz des Vaches, which, though musical at a distance, are objectionable
when performed close to the ear. These annoyances had at length become
so serious that the government appointed commissioners to inquire into
the matter. Their advice is, 'Give to nobody' ; and the remedy therefore
lies principally with travellers themselves.
40. Bern.
Hotels. 'Bernee Hof (PI. a; C, 5), adjoining the Federal Hall, R. & A.
4-5, D. 5 fr. ; Bellevce (PI. b ; D, 5), adjoining the Mint, R., L., & A. S'/s-iYi',
D. 4fr.; both these command a view of the Alps. 'ScHvrEizERHoF (PI. c; C,4),
near the station, R., L., & A. S'/z, D. 41/2 fr.; =Faucon (PI. d; D, 4), Markt-
gasse, R. & L. S'/z, D. 4 fr. — Hotel de France (PI. g; G, 3, 4), R., L.,
Si A. 3, D. 2V2 fr-; -Hotel du Jura (PI. h; B, 4), adjoining the Bank, R., L.,
& A. 2'/2-3 fr.; Hirsch (PI. i; C, 4), these three near the station. — In the
town: 'Pfistekn (i/d(eZ des Boulangers, PI. k; E, 4), near the clock-tower;
'Storch (PI. 1; C, 4), *L6we (PI. m; C, 4), both moderate; Mohr (PI. n;
F, 4); Schmieden {MarMiaux, PI. p; D, 4); Hotel-Pension Ruof (PI. e;
C, 4), Waisenhaus-Platz ; "Hotel zu Webekn (H6t. des Tisserands, PI. q;
D, 41 and Gasthof zu Zimmerleuten (PI. t; D, 4), both in the Marktgasse ;
these last all moderate. — Unpretending: Schlussel (PI. r; E, 4) ; 'Bar,
near the station, R. 2'/2, D. 3fr.; Wilder Mann (PI. s; C, 3, 4), Aarberger
Str., R. 2, B. I'/i, D. 3fr. ; Emmenthaler Hof, Keue Gasse; Kreuz, Zeug-
hausgasse, moderate. — "Pens. Hekter (PI. o; F, 4), well situated, near
the Cathedral; *Pens. Jolimont, Aussere Enge (l'/2 M. ; p. 139), with fine
view (5-6 fr.); Pension & Restadrant Sohloss Bremgarten , prettily
situated on a peninsula in the Aare, 2^/i 31. to the N. (carriage-road via
Felsenau); 'Pens. Victoria (5-6 fr.), on the Schanzl (p. 13S), for invalids;
"•Pens. Hcg, in the Mattenhof, 1/4 M. from the town (for surgical cases).
Cafes and Restaurants. "Rail. Restaurant, often crowded ; -Caf^ Casino
near the Federal Hall, terrace with view of the Alps; Cafi Berna; Cafii
Sierntcarte, on the 'Grosse Schanze' (PI. B, 3); Ca/i du ThMlre; Cafi du
Pont, on the other side of the KirchenfeldbrUcke ; Schicellenmalteli, on the
Aare; Anderes , SpitaJgasse 37, Miitzenherg , Kesslergasse, both moderate.
At the W. pavilion on the Munster-Terrasse (p. 135) refreshments are sold af-
ter 1 p.m. (Sundays after 4 p.m.); music occasionally in the evening, and
on Sun. 11-12 a.m. — Outside the town : Cafi Schdnzli (p. 138), beyond the
railway-bridge (1/2 M.), on the lofty right bank of the Aare (concert or
summer-theatre daily); 'Cafi on the Enge (p. 139), 1 M. from the Aarberg
Gate; Scfiloss Bremgarten, 2'/) M. to the X. (see above). — Beer. Krone,
Gerechtigkeitsgasse; 'Cafi National, Bdren, Frick, Schauplatzgasse; 'Cafi
Rhyn, Baren-Platz; Cafi du Pont, Cafi Sternwarte (see above). Bernese
beer: Hahnen; 'Cafi Ca.^sani, Baren-Platz; Stadtgarten, Neuengasse.
Alpine Boots. Riesen, Spitalgasse;".%/ie!rfeygrec, Waisenhaus-Platz. —
Cognac, Madeira etc. at Demme's, Aarziehle.
'Zahnd's Museum of Alpine animals , Untere Alpenegg, Enge-Str. 10
(PI. B, 2 ; to the left of the railway-bridge, on the way to the Enge).
Baths. SwimmingBath at the Holz-Platz, below the Berner Hof (cable-
tram, see p. 137). River Baths below the Unter-Thor Bridge, by the 'Peli-
kan' (PI. G, 3), and in the Altenberg. Water of the Aare very cold (65-68« F.).
I'feiffer's Baths in the Lorraine, 8 min. from the Schiinzli (p. 138; water
77-Sl»F.). — Warm Baths (Turkish, etc.) at Biichlers ;W/'ciri-6«rf, below
the Jliinster-Terrasse.
134 Route 40. RERN. Zeitgloekenthurm.
Cabs. One-horse, for V4 hr. 1-2 pers. 80c., 3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c.; each
additional '/■• I*'"- '^0 or 60c. Two-horse: same fares as for 3-4 pers. with
one horse. Box 20 c, small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a.m., double
fares. Whole day, i.e. over 8 hrs., 1-2 pers. 15fr., 3-4 pers. 20fr.
Tramway from the Bears'Den through the chief street to the railway
station, and thence on to the 'Linde' (Bremgarten Cemetery; fares 10-30 c),
and from the Kaligthurm to Wabern (p. 139).
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 15), near the station. Branch-office in
the Kramgasse, at the old post-office.
British Minister, Chas. S. Scoil, C.B., 7 Hirschengraben ; office-hous
11-1. — American Minister, Bon. John D. Washburn. — English Church
Service in the hall of the Lerber School, Predigergasse 12 (10.30 a.m. and
3.30 p.m.). Chaplain Rev. J. Bernard Smith, Erlacher Hof.
Attkactions. First visit the 'Kleine Schanze' and the Federal Council
Hall ; then the Kirchenfeldbriicke and the Cathedral (Miinster-Terrasse and
Erlach Monument); follow the Kreuzgasse to the Rathhaus; across the
Nydeckbriicke to the Bears' Den; return past the Zeitglockthurm to the
Corn Market, and cross the Waisenhaus-Platz to the museums ; lastly cross
the railway-bridge to the Schanzli and then return to the station.
Bern (1765'), the capital of Canton Bern, with 45,944 inhab.
(including its extensive suburbs), has been the seat of the Swiss
government since 1848. Founded by Duke Berthold V. of Zahrin-
gen in 1191, the town became independent of the Empire in 1218.
By 1288 its powers had so increased that it warded off two sieges by
Rudolph of Hapsburg, and in 1339 the Bernese overthrew the
Burgundian nobles at the battle of Laupen (p. 199). In 1353 Bern
joined the Confederation, and in 1528 the citizens embraced the
reformed faith. In 1415 they conquered part of Aargau, and in
1536 they wrested the Pays de Vaud from the princes of Savoy; but
in 1798 they were deprived of these territories.
The city, in a striking situation, is built on a peninsula of sand-
stone-rock, formed by the Acre, which flows 100' below. Most of
the broad principal streets run from E. to W. Those in the old
part of the town are flanked with arcades (Lauben), which form a
covered way for foot-passengers. One of the chief characteristics
of Bern consists in its numerous fountains, most of them dating
from the 16th cent., adorned with statues of every variety (Samson,
Themis, an Archer, a Bagpiper, an Ogre, etc.). In other respects
also Bern still retains more mediaeval features than any other large
town in Switzerland.
The chief artery of traffic is a series of broad streets , called
the Spitalgasse, the Marktgasse, the Kramgasse, and the Gerechtig-
keitsgasse, which extend from the Obere Thor (PI. B, 4) to the Ny-
deck Bridge (PI. G, H, 4), a distance of nearly a mile. In this
street are situated the Kafigthurm (PI. 20), now a prison, and the
Zeitgloekenthurm (PI. 21 ; E, 4), once the E. gate of the town,
but now its central point, rebuilt in 1770. On the E. side is a cur-
ious clock , which announces the approach of each hour by the
crowing of a cock , while 2 min. before the hour a troop of bears
marches in procession round a sitting figure. Being the heraldic em-
blem of Bern, the bear frequently recurs. Thus, on the neighbour-
Cathedral. BERN. 40. Route. 135
ing Bdrenbrunnen (PL 2), Bruin appears with shield, sword, ban-
ner, and helmet. Two bears also support a shield in the pediment
of the Corn Hall (PI. 12), a handsome building, which down to
1830 always contained a store of corn to bo used in case of famine
(wine-cellar below, much frequented). The Kornhaus-Platz is em-
bellished with the grotesque Kindlifresser-Brunnen (^Ogre Foun-
tain; PI. 3; D, 4); the ogre is about to devour a child, while other
innocents protrude from his pocket and girdle.
At the E. end of the opposite Metzgergasse are the modern
Old Catholic Church fPl. 11), designed by Deperthes of Rheims,
and the Rathhaus or Town Hall (PI. 16; F, 4), erected in 1406,
and restored in 1868, approached by a handsome flight of steps,
and adorned with the arms of the Bernese districts.
The *Cathedral, or Miinster (PI. E, F, 4, 5), a fine late-Gothic
structure, 93 yds. long, 37 yds. broad, and 76' high, was begun
in 1421, completed in 1573, and restored in 1850. Round the whole
of the roof runs a beautiful of en Balustrade, the design of which is
different between each pair of buttresses. The W. Portal is remark-
ably line; the sculptures represent the Last Judgment; in the
outer arches are Christ, above, with the Virgin and John the Baptist
on the left and right, and the Twelve Apostles-; in the inner (small-
er) arches are the Prophets and the Wi-e and Foolish Virgins.
The unfinished Tower, 134' high, is now to be finished from plans
of the German architect Beyer; the entrance to it is by a side-door
in the W. portal. We ascend 223 steps tc the lodge of the tower-
keeper (50c.), who shows the relative proportions of all the large
bells in the world, and to a gallery commanding a superb view.
Intekior (adm. 20c.}. The Choir contains Stained Glass of 1496, one
window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation , another the Life
of Christ. The Choir Stalls (1522) are adorned on one side with Apos-
tles, on the other with Prophets. A monument with the armorial bearings
of Berthold von Zii/iringen , the founder of Bern (see p. 134), was erected
by the city in 1600. Another in memory of the magistrate Friedrich von
Sleiger, bears the names of the 702 Bernese who fell on 5th Marcli, 1798,
at the Grauholz , 6 M. to the N. of Bern , in an engagement with the
French. In front of this is a Pietas in marble, by Tscharner (1870). The
organ rivals that of Freiburg (performance four times weekly in summer
at 8; tickets, 1 fr., at the hotels or from the verger).
The Platz in front of the cathedral is adorned with an Equestrian
Statue of Rudolph von Erlach (PL 6), the victor at Laupen (p. 199),
in bronze, designed by Volmar of Bern, and erected in 1848, with
bears at the corners, and inscriptions and trophies on the pedestal.
The *Catliedral Terrace [MUnster-Terrasse ; PL F, 5), rising
abruptly 110' above the Aare, formerly the churchyard, is now a
shady promenade with seats , adorned with a bronze statue of Ber-
thold von Zdhringen (PL 7; p. 134), designed by Tscharner, with
Bruin as a helmet-bearer. The view from this terrace, as indeed
from every open space in Bern, is justly celebrated. In clear weather
the panorama of the Bernese Alps witnessed here is more extensive
than from any other spot in the Oberland.
136 Route 40. BERN. Histor. Museum.
£ ¥l"iVffl!l^]fi' 'U *Viewa. The most important mount-
■2" Ji, Mfci 'W«^' I ains are marked in the annexed Panorama.
•5= livOM ' ' From other points (the Miinz-Terrasse,
J *yf\''^jM 1 ' Casino-Garden, Bundes-Rathhaus, Kleine
* ' ' ''^ Schanze, Cafe Schanzli, and the Enge out-
side the Aarberger Thor) the following
mountains are also visible : — To the right
|§ , of the Doldenhorn, the Balmhorn (12,180')
a-"!^. - , with the ^Z^e/s (11,930'-, 37 M. distant), and
JS over the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit
^ S." of the Stockhorn {l\^b' \ 18 M.); also, to the
1 I extreme left, the peaks of the Spannorler
g ; ; (10,515'; 53 M.) and the ^fcWoss6«rgr (10,280'
" Ig «• '\M^ ^^ ^■^■' ^'^^^ ^" *^^ canton of TJri ; the crest
2" 'L ^^fW« I of the Bduchlen near Escholzmatt (5810'
ss^... ' " /^^' I '~^ 24 M.), and the /'eMe»-5(ein above the Entle-
■|~ 5i- < p-^ ! 'Q buch (6700'; 30 M.).
5- |B f ^1 \ in These mountains present a sublime
Joc. L '• - '» spectacle at sunset in fine weather, espe
|S=_ It, , ' A ^ cially when the W. horizon is partially
" % V , /I -S veiled with thin clouds , and the pheno-
^. tz ' ", 'M ii menon called the Alpengluhen ('Glow of
•|^ %". ^S % the Alps') is produced. Long after the shad-
.||'^ ■ "% .^ ows have fallen upon the valleys, and the
S-" 1^ ''f^ ^ lingering rays of the setting sun have faded
"1^ U 5./ from the snowy peaks themselves, the
__ m" E S mountains begin to glow from their bases
i„ J y a upwards, as if illumined by a bright in-
ss iS 1 "^ ternal fire.
" a ^" M The Historical Museum (PL 14;
^ p . \ ' a E, 5; Tues. and Sat. 3-5, Sun. IOV2
1 -12; at other times 1 pers. 1 fr. ;
"^ for 2 pers. or more 50 c. each) con-
^ tains archaeological , ethnographical,
[) and historical collections , including
,j^^ S antiquities from lake-dwellings and
^ tombs, Swiss implements of the flint,
^ bronze, and iron periods, a selection
3 of ancient weapons from the arsenal of
H Bern, Burgundian tapestry, the fleld-
" altar of Charles the Bold, enriched
% with gilding and precious stones (cap-
tured at Grandson), etc.
Adjoining the museum, on the S.,
is the University (PI. 22; 360-80 stu-
dents), founded in 1834; on the N.
side is the Town Library (PI. 1 ; open
daily, 3-5 p.m.), containing numerous
histories of Switzerland.
To the S. of the University the
*Kirchenfeldbrucke (PI. E, 5; splen-
did view;, a huge iron bridge built in
1882-83, 751' long, 115' above the
Aare, crosses the Aare to the Helvetia-
Kunst-Museum. BERN. 40. Route. 137
Platz in the Kirchenfeld, where a new quarter of the town is being
erected by an English company.
The best view of the bridge is obtained from the Miinzterrasse
(PI. 13), immediately above it, on the left bank. We may now follow
the Insel-Strasse, past the new federal Government Offices (now
under construction) to the Casino-Platz (PL C, 6). To the right, at
the corner of the Baren-Platz and the Schauplatzgasse,is theMuseum,
a club (introduction by a member), with a fagade adorned with statues
of celebrated Bernese by Dorer.
In the Bundesgasse, on the left, rises the *Federal Cotmcil Hall
(^Bundes-Rathhaus, PL C, 5), a handsome edifice in the Floren-
tine style, 400' long and 165' broad, designed by Studer, and com-
pleted in 1857 (porter on the right of the principal entrance ; en-
trance free). The sittings of the two legislative assemblies, usually
held in July and Dec, are open to the public. The debates, which
are generally very keen, are in German or French. Rulings of the
president, motions, resolutions, etc., are announced in both lan-
guages. On the third floor is a collection of antiquities from lake-
dwellings and another of coins (adm. daily 10-1'2). The roof com-
mands the most extensive *View in Bern. — In front of the Bundes-
Rathhaus is a fountain-figure of Berna, in bronze , on a pedestal
adorned with figures of the four Seasons.
Between the Council Hall and the Bernerhof is a Cable Tramicaif, 360'
long (gradient 3 : 10}, opened in 18S5, which descends to the bathing etablish-
ments in the Aarziehl (p. 133). Trains every 5 min.; fare 10 c.
To the W. of this point, passing the Bernerhof , a few paces
bring us to the promenades on the *Kleine Schanze (PI. B, C, 5),
which affords a superb survey of the Bernese Alps (comp. p. 134;
Panorama by Imfeld), with the Aarethal and the Kirchenfeldbriicke
in the foreground and the town to the left.
The Kunst-Museum in the Waisenhaus-Str. (PL C, 3), a fine
Renaissance building, contains the municipal Picture Oallery
(50 c, daily 9-12 and 2-5; Sun. from IO1/2, gratis).
On the Ground Flock are two rooms to the lett containing sculptures
and casts (1st : Imkof, Atalanta, Eve, Hagar and Ishmael ; Tsc/iarnei% Pie-
tas. 2nd: Casts from the antique). — The vestibule of the Upper Floor
contains statues of Miriam, Ruth, Rebecca, and David, by Imhof; busts
of Bianca Capello and of an Arab sheikh, after Marcello (p. 200); Burnand,
Herd leaving the mountain-pasture. 1st Cabinet: Eehihardf, thirty plates
of Swiss costumes. 2nd Cabinet: Early German and Netherlandish works.
3rd Cabinet: Portraits of Bernese artists, etc. — Large Saloon. To the
right: 111. Ribera, St. Jerome; E. Oirardet, 133. Going to school, 132.
Almsgiving; 164. Paul Robert, Echo; 128. Bonsieiten, Falls of Terni; '138.
Ritz, Engineers on the mountains ; Alb. de Mewon, *14L Chamois-hunter,
143. Negress, 142. The dying husband; 146. A'. Girardet, Scene from the
battle of Moral; '153. Anker, The examination; 152. Pixis, Huss parting
from his friends ; 154. Anker, The dead friend ; 224. K. Zimmermann, AroUa
Glacier; '172. Roller, Cow and calf in the mountains; 200. Millner, Moun-
tain pasture; 157. Al. Calame, Waterfall near Meiiingen; -161. Didaii,
Valley of Lauterbrunnen ; "165. Vautier, Saying grace; No number, Bur-
nand. Old age of Louis XIV. ; Hid Ouigon, Grand Canal; ilb. D'Orschtciller,
Ape concert: 226. Brirhser. Aiuouij the waves; 167. Ihimhert, Cattle cross-
1 38 Route 40. BERN. Nydeckbrucke .
ing a river; Ko number, Stabli, Scene in the Canton of Tieino; "160.
Diday, Chalet in the Bernese Uberland ; 156. Calame, Scene near the Han-
degg; 162. Diday, Evening landscape; 153. Steffan, Scene near Meiringen;
197. Harver, Olevano; '241. Castati, The lirsl snow on the Lake of Oeschinen;
185. Walthard, Skirmish in the Grauholz in 1798; 147. Veillon, Spring
morning on the Lake of Brien/. ; 199. Tobler, Checkmate. — • 5th Cabinet.
223. Frisching, On the Lake of Brienz; 182. Sckuler, Strassburg in 1870;
127. L. Robert, Italian woman ; 164. Privosl, Wood on the Great Scheidegg.
— 6th Cabinet. A. v. Bonstetten, Landscapes. — Water-colours.
Opposite is the Natural History Museum (PI. C, 3; in summer,
Tues. and Sat. 2-5, and Sun. IO1/2-I2, free; on other days, 8-6,
adm. 1 fr. ; for 2 pers. or more, 50 c. each).
To the right on the ground-floor is the Collection of Minerals , which
includes some magnificent crystals (rock-crystal , smoky topaz from the
Tiefen Glacier on the Furka). Bust of B. Sliider (d. 1887). To the left,
Fossils. — On the first floor is the Zoological Collection. On the staircase
is a group of chamois. In the central saloon , with ceiling-frescoes by
Baldancoli, are large ruminants. In the room on the left, birds and eggs.
In the room on the right, mammalia. Adjacent a small room devoted
to the Swiss fauna. — On the 2nd floor, to the left, amphibia, fish, and
marine animals; to the right, conchylia, crabs, and insects.
Adjoining the Museum on the E. is the large new School Build-
ing (PI. C, 3), accommodating the Gymnasium and Commercial
School. — To the W. of the town, in the Freiburger Stasse, is the
large new Inselspital, a hospital admirably equipped for the treat-
ment of 330 patients. — In the Grosse Schanze, above the station
to the W. (PI. A, B, 3, 4), with promenades and extensive view,
are the Observatory, the Head Offices of the Jura, Berne, and Lu-
cerne RaUivay, the Maternity Hospital, and a monument to President
Stamp fli.
Crossing the Railway Bridge (p. 17), at the N.W. end of the
town, we pass the Botanic Garden and reach (1/9 M.) the ^Schanzli
(PI. D, E, 2 ; Cafe, adm. for non-customers 50 c), with a terrace and
grounds commanding the finest view near Bern. In the foreground
lies the picturesque city ; above it rises the wooded Gurten ; to the
left are the Bernese Alps, and to the right the Stockhorn chain, adjoin-
ed by the Freiburg Mts. ; and to the extreme W. is the Mole'son.
The large Military Depot of Canton Bern, in the Beundenfeld
beyond the Schiinzli , erected in 1874-78 at a cost of 4i/2 million
francs, comprises an arsenal, offices, stables with riding-schools,
and a large barrack. The Arsenal contains large stores of weapons,
and in the 'Antiquitatensaal' are various curiosities (fee).
On the E. side of Bern the Aare is crossed by the handsome
Nydeckbrucke (PI. G, H, 5), in three arches, built in 1844. The
central arch has a span of 158', and is 100' high. On the right
bank of the Aare, close to the bridge , on the right, is the Bears'
Den {Bdrengraben^, where Bruin is maintained , according to im-
memorial usage , at the cost of the municipality. Bread and fruit
are the only offerings permitted. — From this point the Thuner
Stalden, a handsome avenue of plane-trees, afl'ording a fine view
of the town, ascends to the right, whence we return to the (20min.j
THUN. 41. Route. 139
town by the Gryphenhiibeli- Weg, the Marien - Strasse , and the
Kirchenfeldbriicke (p. 136).
To the N., 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate, on the left bank of the Aare,
is the Enge , a large peninsula nearly surrounded by the Aare, rising
high above it, and commanding an admirable view. The finest point is
the cafe (p. 133), surrounded by beautiful shady grounds.
The view from the 'Gurten (2825'; Inn), a long hill to the S. of Bern,
embraces, besides the Bernese Alps (p. 186), the Stockhorn chain, the Frei-
burg Alps, the Jura for a distance of lOU 31., with parts of the Lake of
Keuchatel ; and, to the left, the Unterwald and Lucerne Mts. as far as Pi-
latus. The road from Bern to the (4 31.) Gurten, leads through the Aarzihl
to the Ca/i Schonegg and (I'/z 31.) Wahevn, from both of which points
paths also ascend to the top. On the hillside are the Bdchlelen and Vic-
toria asylums for deserted children.
Above Belp (p. 141), 5 31. to the S. of Bern, lies Zimmerwald (2815';
Hot. -Pens. Beau-Sejour), charmingly situated, and (4 31. farther) Biitschelegg
(3470'; Inn), with an extensive view.
41. From Bern to Thun.
Comp. Map, p. Hi.
191/2 M. Railway (Centralbafm) in 1 hr. (3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 70 c).
View to the right as far as Miinsingen; thence to Uttigen on the left.
Through-travellers to Interlaken go on to the Scherzligen terminus (see
p. 143), '/2 ^- beyond Thun, where the steamer awaits them.
Bern, see p. 133. On the Wylerfeld [^. 17) the train turns
to the right, affording an admirable survey of the Alps to the right.
3 M. Ostermundingen. — 5 M. Gumlingen (^Hot. Mattenhof). junction
tor Lucerne (p. 129). About 2'/4 M. to the E. is the finely-situated
*Pension Bentenherg (2325'). The Giebel (I/4 hr.) commands a fine
view. — 8 M. Rubigen; 10 M. Miinsingen. On the right rise the Stock-
horn chain and Niesen (p. 141), the last spurs of the High Alps,
and to the left the Monch, Jungfrau, and Blumlisalp. 12^/2 M.
Wichtrach; I41/2 M. Kiesen. From this point a road ascends via
Liesb'tch in 2'/2 hrs. to the Falkenfluh (3410'), a health-resort with
an unpretending *]nn and a fine view. Near (I51/.2M.) UtCigen
we cross the Aare. On the right of the entrance to the station of
Thun rises a large barrack.
191/2 M. Thun. — Hotels. *Thuner Hof or Grand Hotel, beautifully
situated on the Aare, R., L.. & A. from 4V2, B. I'/e, D. 4'/a-8 fr.; 'Bellevce,
with extensive grounds, R., L., & A. from 4, B. I'/j, lunch S'/a, D. 5, pens.
11 fr. ; "Hot. -Pens. Baumgarten, with garden, R. from 2, pens. 6-10 fr. ;
'Fbeienhof, by the steamboat-quay, with cafe-restaurant and garden on the
Aare, R. <fe A. 21,2-3, D. 3, B. li/4fr.; 'Falke. with terrace on the Aare,
R. 2-3, D. 3 fr.; *Kreuz, R. 2, D. 3 fr. ; "Krone, adjoining the Town Hall,
R.,L.,&A. 21/2 fr. ; Schweizerhof, at the station. — *Pens. Itten, on the
Amsoldingen road, 61/2 fr. ; Pens. EichbChl, on the lake, near Hilter-
lingen, 2 31. to the S.E.
Cafes. Freienhof (see above) ; Cafi du Casino, on the way to the Belle-
vue. Beer at the Freienhof, the Cafi du Pont, on the way to the railway-
station, and the Schliissel, by the Lauithor.
Kurgarten. Concerts daily 3.30-5 and 8-10 p.m. Adm. 50 c.; weekly
ticket 2, monthly 5 fr.
Baths in the very rapid and cold Aare, to the N. of the town, 50 c.
Warm Baths at the Biilliz Baths. — Telegraph Office opposite the Post-
office. -— BIonet Changer, ^. Knerhteiifiofer. — Boat on the lake, according
to tariff, 3fr. per hour, 2 hrs. 5 fr.. 3 hrs. 7, ','2 dav 8, whole day 10 fr.;
140 Route 41. THUN. Bernese
but better terms may sometimes be made. — Caeved Wood at /. Kojfer's,
in the garden of the Bellevue.
Cab to or from the station 1 fr. Carriage with one horse the first hr.
4, with two horses 7 fr., each addit. hr. 3 and 5 fr. To Gunten 5 or 8, to
Merligen 7 or 12, to Interlaken 14 or 25, to Wimmis 6 or 10, to the Blaue
See 20 or 25, to Kandersfeg 20 or 38, to Weissenburg 13 or 24, to Zwei-
simmen 28 or 30. Saanen 35 or 60, Gsteig 40 or 70, Chateau dOex 40 or
70, Aigle 80 or 150, Gurnigel 30 or 50 fr.
English Chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue.
Thun (1844'; pop. 5300), charmingly situated on the Aare^
3/4 M. below its efflux from the lake, forms a fitting portal to the
beauties of the Oberland. The principal street is curious. In
front of the houses projects a row of warehouses and cellars,
10-12' high, on the flat roofs of which is the pavement for foot-
passengers, flanked with the shops. Thun is the centre of the
trade of the Oberland.
Near the bridge (to the left) a covered way of 218 steps (and
to the right of the bridge, at the Pens. Baumgarten, a road without
steps) ascends to the Churchy erected in 1738. *View from the
churchyard, embracing the old-fashioned town, the two arms of
the rapid river, the fertile and partly wooded plain, and the Niesen,
beyond which the snow-fields of the Doldenhorn and the Bliimlisalp
are visible. — Near the churchyard rises the large square tower of the
old Castle of Zdhringen-Kyburg with a turret at each corner, erected
in 1182, and within the walls of the castle is the Amts-Schloss, or
residence of the Bernese bailiffs, erected in 1429. From the
'Schloss-Promenade', beside the tower, we obtain a beautiful view,
to the S.W., of the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhorn
chain. A road, ending in a covered flight of steps, descends hence
to the market-place.
Thun is the seat of the Federal Military School for officers and
sergeants, chiefly of artillery and engineers, and contains the federal
manufactories of ammunition. Military manoeuvres take place here
annually on the 'Almend', or common. The Keramic Museum con-
tains a fine collection of terracottas, majolica, etc.
Walks. Above the town on the right bank of the Aare, through the
Bellevue grounds to the (74 hr.) -Pavilion St. Jacques (Jakobshiibeli, 2100*),
commanding the lake, the Alps, Thun, and the valley of the Aare. Higher
np (8 and 10 min.) are two other 'pavilions'' (Obere and Untere Warl)., the
higher of which atl'ords a charming survey of Thun and the valley of the
Aare. — Another walk is by the road on the right (N.) bank of the Aare
and of the lake across the Hdchimatt, with its pretty grounds and Alpine
view (Kigcr, illonch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, etc.), to the (20
min.) Chartreuse (the property of the Parpart family). Here (or by a shorter
path 8 min. farther back) we turn to the left , passing the liachiholzli,
cross (10 min.) the Hunibach, and follow a path through the picturesque
Kohleren-Sc/iluclit, where the brook forms several small falls. This path
ascends to the Griisisbergwald (see p. 141) and the Goldiwyl road O/2 hr.).
On the Bern road, 3 M. to the N.W. of Thun, lies Heiniberg., with
extensive potteries. — To the ^'. of Thun is the (I'/-.! M. ; diligence
6 times daily in 20 min.; carr. with one horse 3 fr.) considerable village
of Ste/fsbjtrff (brewery), whence we may ascend in '/2 hr. to the small
Schnittioeuer- Bad (trout), with its mineral spring. — Charming walk on the
Goldiwyl Koud, which diverges to the right from the Steffisbnrg road, at
Oberland. THE NIESEN. 42. Route. 141
the '■niibeU\ a few hundred yards to the X. of the town. fA shorter path
ascends to the right at the Pens. Baumgarten, with numerous guide-posts.)
The beautifully wooded GHisisberg. which the road ascends, is intersect-
ed with good paths, furnished with finger-posts. The finest points of
view are the Rappenfluh or Rabenflult (2844'; 1 hr.) and the Brandlisberg
(2397'; 20 min. from the Eabentluh or V:; hr. from the Hiibeli direct),
which overlook the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhorn chain.
After about 2i;'i M. the road divides. The left branch leads to tli/2 M.)
Goldiwiil (3155'; Zysset's Inn), which may be reached also by a shorter
road (3 M.) from Thun. diverging to the left before the Bachimatt. The
right branch leads to (2' '4 M.) Heiligenschwendi (3324'), 3/4 M. to the S. of
which is the ~ Haltenegg (3287"), affording a magnificent view. A picturesque
way back leads through the Kohleren (see p. 140; descend to the left at
the guide-post near the bifurcation, mentioned above).
■The handsomest of the villas on the lake is Schadau, the property
of M. de Rougemont, a modern Gothic building, charmingly situated
between the left bank of the Aare and the lake, and embellished
with sculptures in sandstone. On Sundays the garden is open to the
public. — Farther distant, on the right bank, is the chateau of Hiinegg, in
the French Renaissance style. Beautiful view from the terrace. Apply to
the gardener, who lives on the road, V4 M. nearer Thun. No fee.
Excursions. Thierachern (1867'; Lowe), with fine view, 3 M. to the
W. ; 3 M. farther W., Bad Blumenstein and the Fallback; thence through
wood in l'/2 hr. to the Guniigel-Bad (see below). Baths of Schwefelherg
&j-i hrs. to the W. of Blumenstein, beyond the Gantvist Pass), see p. 187. —
Burgistein (2690'), a village and castle with fine view, 8 M. to the N.W. of
Thun. Amsoldinge.il (Roman tombstones), 3V2 M. to the S.W., and the
ancient tower of StrdUligeii (p. 186), 3V2 M. to the S. of Thun, a splendid
point of view. The undulating district between the Stockenthal and Thun
abounds in beautiful walks and mountain-views. — The Stockhorn (from
Blumenstein or Amsoldingen 4-4V2 hrs.), see p. 186.
To THE Guenigel-Bad from Thun a walk of 31/2 hrS. (guide desirable), or
drive of 4 hrs. (carr. with one horse 30, with two horses 60 fr.) or from
Bern direct by diligence (twice daily in 4V2 hrs.; fare 7, coupe 81/2 fr. ;
distance 20i 2 M.). The road from Bern leads bj' Wabern and Kehrsalz,
and (leaving Belp on the left) follows the W. side of the Giirbethal, soon
affording a fine view of the Bernese Alps. At (12V2 M.) Kirchenthurnen
(1995') it ascends to the right to the large village of Riggisberg (2500';
Sonne), beyond which we follow a road to the left to the DUrrbach Inn
and ascend steeply through the Laaswald to the (8 M.) * G-urnigelhad
(3783'), a favourite health-resort, with a spring impregnated with lime and
sulphur, situated on a broad plateau (500 beds, E. 21/2-6, pens. 6-8 fr.). Ex-
tensive wood-walks in the environs: to (V2 hr.) Seftigschwend (Inn); past
the Laashofe to the (1 hr.) Ldngiiei-Bad; to the (1 hr.) Obere Gurnigel
(5070'), an admirable point of view; to the (l''2hr.) SeelibiihUolbO'). — Over
the Gantrist to Bad Weissenbiirg (5-6 hrs.), see p. 186. —From Waffentci/l,
5 M. to the W. of Thun and 3 31. to the S.W. of stat. Uttiyeii (p. 139)," a
pleasant path, which cannot be mistaken, ascends to Bad Gurnigel in 2V2hrs.
To Saanen through the valley of the Simme, see R. 56.
42. The Niesen.
Comp. Map, p. 144.
Three paths lead to the top : (1st) on the N. side from Wimmis a
bridle-path (the best route) in 4'/2 hrs. ; (2nd) on the E., from the Eeustrich-
Bad a bridle-path in the same time ; (3rd) on the S. side, from Frtiligen
a footpath in 5 hrs. (comp. p. 141). Travellers ascending in the morning
should start from "Wimmis ; in the afternoon the path from the Heustrich-
Bad is better shaded.
Steamboat from Thun to Spiez, see p. 141 ; thence by Spiezwyler to
Wimmis 31/4 M. (a drive of 40 min.; post-vehicle with three seats daily;
one-horse carr. 4 fr. ; return- carriages sometimes to be had ; one-horse
142 Route 42. THE NIESEN. Bernese
carr. from Thiin 6, two-horse 10 fr.)- — To the Heiistrioh-Bad and Fiii-
tigen, see R. 53.
HoKSK to the top of the Niesen and back, from Wimmis, 15 fr. (starting
before 11 a.m.); if the start is later, 20 fr. — Guide (unnecessary) 6-8 fr.
— Chair-porters 10-12 fr.
From Spicz to (I'/i M.~) Spiezwyler, see p. 176. We then cross
the Kander (view of the Bliimlisalp from the bridge) to the right
to (2 M.) —
Wimmis (2080'; pop. 1349 ; *Lowe\ a pretty village in a very fer-
tile district, at the E. base of the Burgfluh (5072'), overlooked by a
castle of the once powerful Barons of Weissenburg, which is now
occupied by a school and the local authorities. The church is said
to have been founded by King Rudolph II. of Burgundy in 933, but
is mentioned in ancient documents as early as 533.
Ascent of the Niesen from Wimmis. The path ascends on the S. side
of the Burgfluh. After 35 min. it crosses the Staldenbach ; 3 min. later, by
a gate, it turns to the left (finger-post) and ascends in zigzags through
pastures and wood, passing the chalet on the Bergli. By the (2 hrs.)
chalets of Unterstalden (4940') the path crosses to the right bank of the
Staldenbach, and winds up the slopes of the Niesen, past the chalets of
Oberstalden (5883'). The prospect first reveals itself beyond the (!'/« hr.)
Slaldenegg (6345'), a sharp ridge connecting the Betlfltih (7924') or From-
berghorn with the Niesen, where the vast snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp and
Doldenhorn become visible. Thence to the top 1 hr. more.
From the Heustrich-Bad (p. 176) , the bridle-path ascends the grassy
slopes behind the baths in windings (whenever it divides , the steeper
brancli must be selected), as far as an ancient lime-tree (V2 hr.); then
through wood (1 hr.) and over pastures past the chalets of Schlechten-
waldegg and the Hegern-Alp., in numerous windings, to the (2V'2-3 hrs.)
Niesen Inn. This route affords numerous and diversified views, but the
upper part of it is in bad condition for riding. (Drinking water scarce ;
milk at the two upper chalets.)
From Fuutigen (p. 176). The path (5 hrs.; not fit for riding; guide
useful) diverges to the left near the N. end of the village to Winklen
0/2 hr.) , crosses the Gnngbach, ascends in windings through wood, and
crosses the Heitibach to the (IV4 hr.) Wenigsegg (4474'). Thence it con-
tinues on the level to the (I'/a hr.) Sentigrabe.n (4440'), and then ascends
to the (20 min.) Egglialp, and past the Untere and Obere NiesenAlp to the
(IV4 hr.) Slaldenegg, where it joins the path from Wimmis. This route in
the reverse direction affords a beautiful view of the Kanderthal and the
Alps. — 'Inn, 5 min. from the summit, R., L., & A. 4, B. 2 fr.
The *Niesen (7763'), the conspicuous N. outpost of a branch
of the Wildstrubel , and like Pilatus regarded as an infallible baro-
meter (see p. 94), rises in the form of a gently sloping pyramid.
The rocks at the base are clay-slate, those of the upper part sand-
stone-conglomerate. On the top there is room for about 50 persons
only. The Alps are seen to greater advantage here than from the
Rigi. The view vies with that from the Faulhorn ; there the Wetter-
horner form the foreground ; here we are close to the beautiful
snowy Bliimlisalp at the head of the Kienthal. '
View (comp. the panorama, p. 144). The most conspicuous snow-
mountains are : to the K. the distant Titlis ; nearer, the Wetterhorner and
Schreckhiirner, the Eiger, Miinch, Jungfrau, Gletscherhorn, Ebnefluh, Mit-
taghorn, Grosshorn, Breithorn, and Tschingelhorn ; to the S. the Bliimlis-
alp with its three peaks (Morgenhorn, Weisse Frau, Bliimlisalphorn), the
Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, and Altels ; to the W., the Wildhorn, appearing
Oherland. LAKE OF THUN. 43. Route. 143
between two black peaks ; to the left of these the pinnacles of the Mont
Blanc group ; then the two peaks of the Dent du Midi , the last snow-
group towards the W. The entire Lake of Thun is visible, and part of
that of Brienz. The thickly peopled valleys of the Sirame, Engstligenbach,
and Kander, and the Kienthal may be traced for a long distance. Towards
the N. the course of the Aare, and the hill-country of Bern , as far as
the Jura, complete the prospect. Best light towards sunset or in the
morning before 10 o'clock.
43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun.
St. Beatenberg.
Comp. Map, p. 144.
Steamboat 4-5 times daily in l'/4 hr. from Thun (Scherzligen ; comp.
p. 139) io Darligen ; stations Oberhofen, Gunten, Spiez, Merlif/en, St. Beaten-
berg , Leissigen (the last two not always touched at). — Railway from
Darligen to Interlaken in connection with the steamboats in 10 min., fare
80 or 40 c. (1st class from Thun to Interlaken 2 fr. 95 c.); from Interlaken
to Bonigen (p. 170) in 12 min., fare 80 or 40c. — Road on the S. Bank to
Interlaken (18 M.), a pleasant drive; on the iV^. Bank a new road (15'/4 M.;
one-horse carr. in 3 hrs., 14 , two-horae 25 fr.), which between Merligen
and Neuhaus will repay walkers (comp. p. 145).
The *Lake of Thun (1837'; greatest depth, 709') is 11 M.
long, and nearly 2 M. broad. The banks are at first studded -with
villas and gardens, but, farther on, the N. bank becomes precipitous.
The Steamboat starts from the quay near the Freienhof Hotel
(p. 139), ascends the Aare, stops at the Bellevue, and then at
Scherzligen, the railway-terminus (see p. 139). To the left, among
the trees, is the Chartreuse (p. 140); to the right, where the Aare
emerges from the lake, Schloss Schadau (p. 141). The Stockhorn
(7195'), with its conical summit, and the pyramidal Niesen (7763')
rise on the right and left of the entrance to the valleys of the Kander
and Simme (p. 186). To the left of the Niesen are the glittering
snow-fields of the Bliimlisalp ; on the right, at the head of the Kan-
derthal, the Friindenhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhorn, Altels, and
Rinderhorn gradually become visible (from left to right). In the
direction of Interlaken appear successively (from right to left) the
Mittaghorn, Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger in the foreground, and farther
off the Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn.
The steamer skirts the N.E. bank, which is clothed below -with
villas and gardens and higher up with woods, and passes the pretty
village of Hilterfingen and the chateau of Hunegg (p. 141). It
touches at Oberhofen (Pensions *Moy,*Oberhofen; Restaurant Zini-
mermann), which has a picturesque chateau of Countess Poiirtales,
and at Gtrnten ( Weisses Kreuz ; *Pens. du Lac, 5 fr. ; Hirsch ; *Pens.
Graber, all on the lake; Pens. Sehonherg , on the hill, 10 min.
from the lake, 5 fr.). In the vicinity (l'/2 M. from the lake) the
water of a stream has worn a curious gorge for itself (waterfall).
A road ascends from Gunten to (3/4 br.) Sigriswyl (2620' ; 'Pens. Bar,
unpretending), a prettily situated village. The Blunie (4577'; fine view) is as-
cended hence in 2 hrs. via Schwanden ; the Sign'sici/l- Gral { Unter-Bergli, 5508' ;
Ober-Bergli, 6056') by the Alpiglen Alp in 21/2-3 hrs.; the SigriswyUr Roth-
144 Route 43. ST. REATENBERG. Bernese
horn (6737'), the highest point of the Sigriswyl-Grat, in 4 hrs. (with guide).
— On the steep slope of the Sigriswyl-Grat towards the Justisthal (p. 139)
is the Schafloch (6S40'), a grand ice-cavern, reached from the Obere Bergli
by a giddy path in 3/, hr. (guide and torches necessary).
The steamer now crosses the lake at the broadest part, towards
the S., to Spiez (*Spiezer Hof^ with garden and lake-baths, R.,
L., & A. 5-6 fr. ; *Pens. Sehonegg , 3/^ M. from the lake, R. 2,
B. 1V4) pens. 6 fr.), a small village prettily situated on the S.
bank. The picturesque old chateau , which formerly belonged to
the Erlach family, is now the property of a Berlin gentleman, who
has restored it and surrounded it with pretty grouuds (visitors
admitted); the interesting armoury is open on Wed. (adm. 1 fr., for
the benefit of the poor). From this point two black peaks are visible
for a short time towards the E., above the S. bank of the Lake
of Brienz ; that to the right is the Faulhorn, the broader to the left
the Schwarzhorn.
To AescM. see p. 176; ascent of the ^iesen, p. 141. Diligence to Fru-
tigeii, see p. 171; to Zioeisimmen, see p. 187.
The next station is Faulensee, above which (1 M. ; 3 M. from.
Spiez), is the *Faulensee- Bad (R., L.,&A. 4, D. 31/2, pens. 71/2^1.),
with a mineral spring , pleasant grounds and beautiful view. On
the N. bank we next observe the SLhrmpt Sigriswyl-Grat, with the
bold Ralligstbcke (6066') and the Sigriswyler Rothhorn (6737').
On the lake is Schloss Ralligen. Beyond stat. Merligen (*H6t.
Beatus, with garden on the lake, R. & A. 2-21/2) D. 31/2, pens.
5-6 fr.; Lowe), at the mouth of the Justisthal, the steamer pro-
ceeds to the (1/4 hr .) station of the mountain-railway to St. Beatenherg.
Cable Railway to St. BEATENBERG,in 12 min. (fare II/2, return
21/2 ft-)- The line, opened in June 1889, is 1 M. long and has an
average gradient of 331/3:100. The station at the top is 3 [min.
from the Kurhaus.
St. Beatenherg. — Hotels. *Kdrhaus, at the W. end of the village,
near a wood, with 130 beds and 2 'dependances', R. 3-5, D. 41/2, S. 3,
pens. 8-12 fr. The following are named in their order from W. to E. :
•Pension Beatbice & Pens. Waldkand, 4V2-6, in July and Aug. 5-7 fr. ;
'Hot. -Pens. Schonegg, in the middle of the village, 4-6V2, in July and
Aug. 4V4-7'/2 fr.; Fedz, village inn; *H6t.-Pens. Victoria; Pens, zdr
POST; "Hot. -Pens. Bellevue, with charming view, 7-8 fr. ; on the other
side of the Sundgraben: *H6t.-Pens. Alpenrose, 6-8 fr.; Pens. Jungfrau;
*H6t.-Pens. des Alpes, 3 M. from the Kurhaus, 5-7 fr. — English Church.
The village of Si. Beatenherg (3766'), a favourite health-resort,
lies in a sheltered situation on both sides of the Sundgraben, ■which
opens towards the Lake of Thun. Admirable view of the Alps, from
the Schreckhorn to the Niesen, including the Eiger, Monch, Jung-
frau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, and Wildstrubel. Good wood carv-
ings at moderate prices.
A much finer point of view is the "Amnisbiihel (4383'; */«» at the
top), 25 min. to the E. of the Hotel des Alpes (not quite 3 hrs. from In-
terlaken). Walkers from Interlaken diverge from the road to the right by
a finger-post, 2/4 M. below Beatenherg, and reach the top thence in '/z It.
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Oherland. LAKE OF TIITJN. 43. Boute. 145
Pleasant walk from the Kurhaus to the Waldbrand (25 min.) ; beauliful
pine-wood and charming; views.
Ascent of the "Gemmenalphorn [Giiggisgrat, 6772'), from the Amnisbiihel
in 2'/2 hrs. ; guide 3 fr. (unnecessary for the experienced). To the foot of
the Horn a gentle ascent over pastures ; the last '/z hr. steeper. Superb
view, ranging from Pilatus to the Stockhorn chain and the Diablerets ;
at our feet lies the Justisthal (p. 145) ; beyond it are the Aare, Bern, and
the Jura Mts. The Lake of Thun is not visible.
The Niederhorn (6447') and Btivgfeldstand (6782'), each 2V2-3 hrs. from
Beatenberg, are also fine points of view.
The A^ase, a rocky headland, here projects into the lake. High
tip on the steep bank runs the new road, hewn in the rock at many
places (see helow). On the margin of the lake lies the chateau of
Lerow; and farther on are the Beatenbach^ the ravine of the Sund-
graben (see hclow), and the former station of Xeuhaus (see below").
On the S. bank lies Leissigen (Steinbock), at the base of the
Morgenberghorn (p. 151), pleasantly situated among fruit-trees.
The steamboat stops at Darligen f*Pens. Seiler), the terminus of
the 'Bodeli Railway,' which conveys us to Interlaken in 10 min.
To the left , at the influx of the Aare , is the ruin of Weissenau
(p. 149). To the right, farther on, we have a fine view of the Monch,
Eiger, and Jungfrau. The station for (2* '2 M.) Interlaken is at the
village of Aarmiihle. 1/4 M. from the beginning of the Hoheweg.
The new Road on the N. Bank of the Lake of Thun leads
from Thun hy Hilterfingen and Oberhofen to (6M.) Gunten(jp. 143);
then across the Stampbach (waterfall) and past the old chateau of
Ralligen to (274 M.) Merligen (p. 144) , ^U M. beyond which is
the station of the cable-railway to St. Beatenberg (p. 144). The
road, remarkable for the boldness of its construction, ascends round
the Nase (see above), passing through two rock-tunnels, skirts the
precipitous slopes high above the lake, crosses the Kruibach-Tobel,
and leads through wood (passing the chateau of Lero'W, below, on the
right) to the (2 M.) bridge over the Beatenbach (^Italian Restaur.).
A path leads hence in '/t hr. to the Beatenhohle (2255'), from which
the Beatenbach dashes forth with a noise like thunder in spring and af-
ter heavy rain. St. Eeatus, the first apostle of Christianity in this region,
is said to have dwelt in this cavern.
Three more tunnels ; then a gradual descent. Beautiful view
of the lake, with the Eiger to the right. Crossing the Sundgraben,
we observe the houses of Sundlauenen below iis, on the right. Then
past the (I'/.T M.) KubUbad or St. Beatusbad (Engl. Pension) and
the Neuhaus (on the right), to Vnterseen and (3 M.) Interlaken.
44. Interlaken and Environs.
Ci'inp. Map, p. ItjO.
Hotels and Pensions (omnibus 1 fr.). On the Hoheweg. from W. to E. :
■>H6t. MtTROPOLE (PI. 1), R., L., <fe A. 51/^6' 2, D. 5 fr.; 'Victoria (PI. 2),
with lift, K., L., & A. from 5'/2, B. IV2, D. 5, pens. 8-12 fr.; beyond it the
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 10
146 Route 44. INTERLAKEN. Bernese
small Pension Voltz (PI. 13), and *H6t. Horn (PI. 30), unpretending;
*JUNGFRAC (PI. 3), R., !>., & A. from i'/z, K- 4'/2-5 fr. ; '■'SchweizekhoI''
(PI. 4)-, '^'Belvedere (PI. 5), R. , L., & A. from 4, D. 4 fr. ; "Hot. de.s
Alpes (PI. 6), R., L., & A. 474, lunch 3, D. 41/2 fr. ; "Hotel Beaueivage
(PI. 9), R., L., & A. from 6, D. 4V-2-5 fr.; *Hot. dd Nord (PI. 7), R., L., & A.
4V4, B. !'/■', U- 4. pens. 7-8 fr. ; *H6t. Inteelaken (PI. 8), R.,L., & A. 3V2-4,
B. 3V2, pens. 7-3 fr.; Hot. dd Lac (PI. 10), R., L., & A. 4, D. 3 fr.
To the W. of the Hoheweg, in the direction of the railway-.station :
Hot. Oberland (PI. 12), R., L., & A. 3, D. 3, pen,?. 6-7 fr. ; opposite to it,
Cheval Blanc (PI. 26), moderate; Croix Blanche (PI. 11), R. IV2-2, D. 3,
B. IV4 fr.; "Adler (PI. 14); "Hot. Bekger (PI. 28), R., L., & A. 21/2-3, D, 21/2,
pens. 5-7 fr.; "Hot.-Pens. Krebs (PI. 27), moderate; "Hot. dela Gare (PI. 29),
the last three near the station; Schwan, R. 1-2 fr. — Kear the lower bridge
over the Aare : "Bellevue (PI. 15), pens. 5V2-6V2 fr. — On the small island
of SpielmaUen: "Hot. du Pont (PI. 16), with garden, R., L., & A. 4, D. 31/2,
pens. 6-8 fr.; "Krone. — At Uiiterseen: "Hot. Unterseen (PI. 17), pens.
6 fr. ; "Beau-Site (PI. 18), pens. 6-8 fr.; Pens. Eiger, on the Neuhaus
road, well spoken of; "Pension St. Beatus (Mrs. Simpkin), well situated
near the Lake of Than.
To the S. of the Hoheweg, on the road to the Kleinc Rugen: Deut-
scuer Hof (PI. 20), 2nd class, R., L., & A. 3V2-4, B. IV4, D. 31/2, pens, from
6V2 fr.; 'Hot. National & Pension Wyder (PI. 19), R., L. & A. 3'/2,
D. 31/2 fr.; Hot. Reber (PI. 21), pens. 6 fr. ; "Pens. Ober, or 'Schlossli'
(PI. 23), pens. 5-8 fr. ; "Pens. Villa Bischofberger; Pens. Schonthal,
5 fr. — "Hot. Jungfradblick (P). 22) , on the Kleine Rngen (p. 147) , a
flrst-class house, commanding a splendid view, with pleasant grounds; R.,
L., & A. from 6, B. IV2, D. 5, omnibus IV2 fr. ; pens, in July and August
12-16, at other times 10-12 fr. — Hot.-Pens. Mattenhof, prettily situated
close to the Kleine Rugen, pens. 6V2 fr. ; Pens. Zwahlen, moderate.
In the Environs of Interlaken good and inexpensive quarters may be
obtained. At Wildersicyl (p. 151), IV2 M. to the S.: "Hot. ScuonbOul, in a
fine lofty situation, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Bar, pens. 4V2-5 fr. — At GsteigicyUr {-p.
150): Pens. Schonfels. — On the Brienz road, on this side of (he church-
hill of Goldswyl, (5/4 M.) Pens. Felsenegg , 5'/2 fr. — At Bonigen (p. 170)
on the S. bank of the Lake of Brienz, IV2 M. to the E. of Interlaken : "Pens.
Bellerive, "Pens. Bonigen, and "Chalet du Lac, moderate. — At Beaten-
berg, see p. 144.
Casino on the Hoheweg, with cafe', reading, concert, and billiard rooms,
etc. : music daily 7.30 to 8.30 a.m., and 3.30 to 5 and 8 to 10 p.m. ; whey-cure
7-8 a.m. ; admission for one day 50 c, for a week 2^/2 fr., per month 10 fr. ;
for extra entertaiments 1 fr., or for subscribers 50 c. per day. At the
back of the Casino is a whey-cure establishment.
Restaurants. Baien'sche Bierbrauerei, with garden, next to Hot. Beauri-
vage ; Cafi Oberland; Hot. du Pont, on the Aare, with 'Biergarten' and a fine
view ; Berger and Krebs, by the railway-station. — Confectioners : Weber,
Bahnhof-Str. ; Berger^ at the entrance to the Kurgarten.
Baths in the Hot. Metropole, Beaurivage, etc. — Moneychangers:
Volkshank, Ebersold, both Bahnhof-Str.
Carriages, Horses, Guides, see pp. 150, 151, 157, etc. — Donkeys, I'/b fr-
per hour. — Post and Telegraph Office adjoining the Oberlander Hof.
English Church Service in the old Convent Church. Presbvterian Ser-
vice (Scottish Free Church) in the Sacristy of the Schloss at 11 and 4.
The low land between the lakes of Thun and Brienz, which are
2 M. apart, is called the 'Budelf. These lakes probably once formed
a single sheet of water , but were gradually separated by the de-
posits of the Lutschine, flowing into the Lake of Brienz, and the
Lombach, which falls into the Lake of Thun. These accumula-
tions, first descending from the S., out of the valley of Lauterbrun-
nen, and then from the N. out of the Habkeren valley, account for
the curve which the Aare has been compelled to describe. On
Oberland. INTERLAKEN. 44. Route. 147
this piece of land, 'between the lakes', lies Interlaken (1863'), con-
sisting of the villages of Aarmuhle, Matten and Unterseen, and ex-
tending nearly as far as the Lake of Brienz (total pop. 5361).
The principal resort of visitors is the *H61ieweg , an avenue of
fine walnuts , extending from the village of Aarmiihle to the upper
bridge over the Aare , and flanked with large hotels and tempting
shops. The central part of the avenue, which is open towards the
S., commands a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen-Thal and the
Jungfrau (finest by evening light). On the N. side is the Casino,
a huilding in the Swiss style , with garden , reading-room, etc.
(entrance between the Schweizerhof and Belvedere; music, etc.,
see p. 146). On the S. side, farther on, rises the old monastery
and nunnery of Interlaken, founded in 1130, and suppressed
in 1528, surrounded hy beautiful walnut-trees. The E. wing of
the monastery has been used as a hospital since 1836 ; the rest
of the building, with the Schloss added in 1750, is occupied by
government-offices. The nunnery has been converted into a prison.
The choir of the monastery -church is now an English Chapel.
A small chapel is used by a French Protestant and a Scottish Pres-
hyterian congregation. The nave of the church is a Roman Catholic
place of worship. To the left, at the upper end of the Hoheweg, the
road to Brienz crosses the Aare by a handsome new bridge, imme-
diately above which are the railway-bridge and the Zollhaus station
of the Bodeli Railway (p. 145).
Towards the W. the Hoheweg is continued by the busy street
which leads through Aarmuhle, and past the Post Office (see p. 146),
to the railway-station. To the right are three bridges (fine view
from that in the centre) crossing the island of Spielmatten to the
small town of TJnterseen (1995 inhab.), which consists chiefly of
wooden houses darkened with age, with a large square and a modern
church. Large manufactory of parqueterie.
Interlaken is a favourite summer resort, and is noted for its
mild and equable temperature. The purity of the air, the whey-
cure, and the beauty of the situation attract many visitors, while
others make it their headquarters for excursions to the Oberland.
Walks. The *Kleine Rugen is a beautiful wooded hill to the
S. of Interlaken, on the Wilderswyl road. The principal path, pro-
vided with benches , ascends by the Hotel Jungfraublick in a
straight direction, leading round the hill to the left, and affording
varied views of the Bodeli and the valley of Lauterbrunnen , to
the 'Humboldtsruhe' (view of the Jungfrau and Lake of Brienz).
In 1/2 ^^'■•■'^e reach the Trinkhalle (Cafe'-Restaurant), commanding the
Jungfrau, Monch, and Schwalmern. [A little before the Trinkhalle
a path to the right ascends to the Tanzboden (a level spot in the
wood) and the (20 min.) Rugenhbhe (2424^, a pavilion with a
view of the Jungfrau and the lakes of Thun and Brienz.] Beyond
the Trinkhalle the main path leads to the left, round the hill,
10*
148 Route i-i. INTERLAKEN. Bernese
I Y'*"'^ "'**- j^?^t;;3 passing tin; ^Scheffd raviliim'
Is- ^ ^i^k (with aviewcrt'theLake ot'Tlmii),
T ^ ''N^^ral t^iP' Kasthoferstein (see below),
■-i, -afl^ and the reservoir (fed from the
2^ "^^ffi Saxeteiithal, p. 151), and back to
^ " ^^^ the Hotel Jungl'raublickC/.^hr/).
r* '^ ^3^ Other paths, with benches in
I V "^^i shady nooks and points of view,
i ll W " "^l ramifyfrom the main walk in every
||..l -f^, ^. 3" direction. About the beginning
•|~ '~*^'f^(^3 °* ^'^^ century the hill was planted
* '^^^ffl ^y *^^® chief forester Kasthoi'er
"i*^^S with specimens of the principal
i^ - I ' -H^^^m '~ trees of Switzerland. The stone
|S 'r ~iH^^ S above mentioned bears an iii-
^ «v^m = ,■§ scription to his memory. — Justbe-
j y J ^\ "B. yond the Trinkhalle a path diver-
.t| i ' ^-^ -S ges to the left, and by a (1 min.)
^S° ^"^i ^ bench descends to the riglit to the
|„ S ' ■f^, WagnerenscJilucht (see below).
1= 1 'S Another leads straight past the
" C-| ^ £■ bench, skirting the wood and keep-
1^ . ing to the left, to the (10 min.)
1^.^ s Cafe Unspunnen (t^. Ud).
1^ ^^^^!s % *Heimwehfluh (2218')- From
|s , \ ^ 3 ^ the station, from Aarmiihle, and
" -iJM^^' ^ *'"°™ Matten, roads lead to the
1 ) "^^^^ ►^ ( '/•' ^^0 entrance to the Wagneren-
bj 1 ~ / -=^41 ^ schlucht, to the W. of the Kleine
|s ''^''I *"S^^- 5 Kugen. We ascend the ravine
'^^ "*^^^^^®^^^ S f^'" about 300 paces, and, at a
/ J^^l 2 block of rock with an inscription
~^M^i '^ "' honour of Bernh. Studer (d.
^ J^^ .^ 1887), diverge by a path to tlio
|_ -^^^^ '^ right, which ascends rapidly,
|s ^^ '^^ passing a tine point of view on
1 jg { '^^^^ the right, in 20 min. to the Re-
I fa .' '^^^ staurant. The terrace commands
ll"" r^^ a charming view (finest in the
I ■ ill^l afternoon) of the Bodcli and the
"^f^^ lakes of Thun and Brienz; the
I2 1 Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger are
^1^ ^ , ■.jwjAflitiJi visible from the small belvedere
||" - ''^<^^^^Mu higherup. — Path f rom th e Trmfc-
Z''^^X^ Tlie ruin of ^TJnspunnen (10
^|.. ^\ "^^^^ min.), with a splendid view of
Oherlnnd. INTERLAKEN. U. Itmile. 149
the Lauterbrunnen valley, the Jungfraii , the Mcinch, and the Lake
of Brienz, is reached through the Wagnereiischliuht (at the end of
which on the left, is the *Cafe Unspunnen . with beautiful view),
or by the Kleine Kugen (see p. 148).
The ruined castle of Weissenau ('2 M.) on an island in the Aare near
its influx into the Lake of Than (p. 145), is reached by the old road
froni Matten, or by the road from Unterseen to Thun.
To the Hohbiihl (2070'; ^U hr.), on the right bank of the Aare, a path
ascends to the left immediately beyond the upper bridge over the Aare.
(The lower path to the left leads to the Vogfsrxihe on the Aare, a resting-
place and spring.) The pavilion commands a fine view , which is more
extensive from the grassy slopes of the Vntere Bleicki, a few hundred
paces higher. (The footpath leads to the right, crossing a brook after
10 min.} From the Untere Bleicki a narrow path, called the Greierz-Leitei\
descends direct to the Lustbiihl (see below). Or we may return to the
Hohbiihl and descend thence by steps to the Vogtsruhe, skirt the right
bank, pass a rifle-ground, and reach the narrow and stony plain of Goldei,
between the Harder and the Aare, at the base of the Falkenfltih^ the upper
part of which , seen from the proper point of view, resembles an old
man's face (the Hardermannli). On a rocky hill below the Falkenfluh is
the Lustbiihl, a pavilion commanding another fine view. We may now
return to Interlaken by the bridge behind the Casino (in all, I1/2-2 hrs.).
— The Harder may be ascended by a picturesque and safe route (practi-
cable for riding) which diverges to the right, from the Ilabkern road,
1 M. to the N.W. of Unterseen, before the road to Beatenberg. We as-
cend at first through wood (path steep at places) to (2 hrs.) the Harder-
matte (3988'), which commands a magnificent view of Interlaken and the
Bernese Alps. Thence we descend, passing above the Hardermannli (see
above), to the Untere Bleicki and the (1 hr.) Ohere Aarebriicke at the E.
end of Interlaken (see above). The beaten path should not be quitted
without a guide, as accidents have occurred owing to the precipitous
character of the mountain. — The Thurmberg, ascended in V2 hr. from
Ooldsvvyl, beyond Felsenegg on the Brienz road (p. ITU), overlooks the
Lake of Brienz and the small, sombre Fanlensee or lake of Goldswyl. —
A walk may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Ringgenberg , with a
picturesque church built among the ruins of the castle (view), and to
the Schadburg (2388'; 1' 2 M. farther), on a spiir of the Graggen, an un-
finished castle of the ancient barons of Ringgenberg, a still finer point.
Longer Excursions (comp. the Map, p. 160). To St. Beaten-
berg, either by railway and steamer to (40-50 min.) Merligen
(p. 144), and thence by cable-train in 12 min.; or by the fine new
road on the N. bank of the Lake of Thun , passing the Beatenhijhle
(see p. 14i; to Merligen 7y2 ^^-i one-horse carr. in IY4 hr., there
and back 9 fr., carriage and pair 16 fr. and fee). The direct road
from Interlaken to St. Beatenberg (7'/2 M. ; carr. with one horse 15,
with two horses 28 fr. ; to the Kurhaus 16 and 30 fr.) diverges,
1 M. from Interlaken, to the left from the road into the Hahkernthil
(p. 150), crosses the Lombach, and ascends through wood in wind-
ings (avoidable by short-cuts).
From Interlaken to the *6iessbach on the Lake of Brienz (p. 170)
a steamer plies four times daily in summer (comp. p. 168).
Bljnigen (ll/oM.), Gsteig {i^/4 M.), with a flue view from the
churchyard, and Gsteigwyler (2'/2 ^■), with the ^Hohe Steg' over the
Liitschine, also afford pleasant walks from Interlaken.
The * Scheinige Platte (67^10'; to the top Si/a-i lirs. ; bridle-
150 Route 44. SCHEINIGE PLATTE. Bermse
path from Gsteigwyler) is one of the finest points of view in the
Bernese Oberland. (Horse, incl. carriage to Gsteig, 20 fr. ; boy to
carry luggage 1-2 fr.) From Interlaken to (1^4 ^0 Gsteig, see p. 151 .
Here we may cross the bridge by the church and follow the road to the
right to [3^4 M.) Gsteigwyler (Pens. Schonfels). In the middle of the
village the bridle-path ascends to the left, and very soon to the left
again ; after 12 min. it ascends in zigzags to the right, through wood.
Or, shorter, we may ascend from Gsteig to the left, by a path between
the church and the inn, turning to the right where the path divides,
and in 20 min. reach the bridle-path at the point where it enters
the wood. The bridle-path now mounts by numerous zigzags past
the (11/2 hr. )Sc/toneg'9 (4754'), which overlooks Interlaken and the
lakes of Thun and Brienz, to the (10 min.) picturesquely -situated
*Kurhaus ^ Pension Breitlauenen (D. 3 fr.), and to the (50 min.)
mountain-crest, which it crosses at its W. extremity. (On the right
a furrowed rock called the 'Ameisenhaufen', or ant-hill.) A few
steps more bring us to a striking scene. The Lauterbrunnen valley
lies at our feet, its dizzy abysses descending almost perpendicularly
to the Liitschine, and to the left towers the majestic Jungfrau. Fol-
lowing the S. slope of the crest for 35 min., we arrive at the Hotel
Alpenrose (6730'; R., L., & A. 41/2, B. 2, D. 4 fr.). The Platte, a
crumbling and 'shining plateau' of slate-rock, is a few hundred paces
from the hotel. The finest view is obtained from a bend in the path,
a few paces before the Platte is reached. The traveller should not
omit to visit the Jselten-Alp, 1/4 hr. to the N.E., a pasture which
supports a herd of 600 cattle, with their pleasant tinkling bells.
In order to enjoy a complete panorama, we skirt the left side of the
perpendicular Gummihorn (6893') , to the N.W. of the hotel , and ascend
the (20 min.) "Daube (6772'), whence the survey of the lakes towards the
N. is particularly fine. 'To the S. we enjoy a magnificent view of the
Bernese Alps: from left to right, the Wellborn, Wetterhiirner, Bergli-
stock, Upper Grindelwald Glacier, Schreckhorner, Lauteraarhijrner,
Lower Grindelwald Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn peeping over the Eiger-
grat, the Fiescherhorner, Eiger, Miinch, Jungfrau, Ebnefluh, Mittaghorn,
Grosshorn, Breithorn, Tschingelhorn, Tschingelgrat, Gspaltenhorn, Weisse
Frau, Doldenhorn, and numerous nearer peaks; far below is the Staubbach
in the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Towards evening the lakes of Neuchatel
and Bienne are seen glittering in the distance; and far to the N.E. Pilatus
appears. — Descent from the Platte by Gilndlischwand to Zweiliitscfiinen,
21/2-3 hrs., steep at places. At the small pond near the Platte to the right
we descend across meadows to the (2/4 hr.) lower chalets of the Iselten-
Alp (5116'; giiide to this point 2 fr.); thence through wood, no mistake
being possible farther on.
From the Soiieintge Platte to the Faulhokn (4 hrs; guide un-
neces.sary). The l>ridlc-path, commanding splendid views, leads to the Iselten-
Alp and on the .S. slopes of the Laucherhorn (8333') to the (1 hr.) ridge
liounding the Siigislhal on the S. We then descend slightly to the (V^ hr.)
Hiigislhal See., with its chalet (625S'), skirt its N. and E. banks, and ascend
to the ridge lietween the Schirahhora .ind the Faulhorn. The top of the
latter, 244.0' above the lake, is gained in 2 hrs. more (see p. 163).
The Habkernthal, between the Harder and St. Beatenberg, may
also be explored. Road to the village of (6 M.) Habkern (3600' ;
Inn); one-horse carr. 15, two-horse 25 fr.
Oherland. ABENDBERG. 44. Route. 151
Three fine points of view may be visited hence. The ''Gemmenalp-
horn (6773') is reached by crossing the Brdndlisegg, or by following the
Bilhlbach, inihrs. (or better from the Amnisbiihel, p. 145). The Hohgant
(7215') is ascended in 4 hrs. via Bohl (5902') and the Hagleischalp, or by
the Alp Bosdlgau and through the Karrholen. To the S.W. of the Hoh-
gant is the Grilnenberg (5Lt9o'), over which a pass leads from Habkern to
Sehangnau in the Emmenthal (6 hrs.). The Augstmatthorn {Snggithurm,
6S44'; 3'/2 hrs.) is ascended via the Bodini-Alp.
The *Abendberg is reached from Interlaken hy a bridle-path in
2 hrs. (horse 8 fr.), turning to the right in the Wagnerenschlucht
(p. 148), and passing mostly through wood. The *H6tel Bellevue
(3737'; pens, b^/2-7 fr.) commands a splendid view of the valley of
Lauterbrunnen (Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreckhorn) and of the
Lake of Brienz. A hardly distinguishable path leads from the last
hut above the hotel to the right, across grass, to (20 min.) a tall
dead fir-tree, known as the Siebenuhrtanne (2125'), whence there
is a charming *View of the Lake of Thun, lying far below.
A foot-path leads past the difl'erent peaks of the Abendberg to the
(3 hrs.) Eothenegg (6232'; shortest way from the hotel, 2 hrs.). The next
peaks of the range are the Fachsegg (6346'), the Grosse Schiffli (6674'), the
Kleine Schiffli (6586'), and finally the Morgenberghoin (7383'). The last is
very difficult from this side (better route from Saxeten, by the Tanzbodeli
Pass, see p. 176). A footpath leads from the Hotel Bellevue to Saxeten in
i hr. (the upper path to the right in the meadow, behind the second chalet).
The Saxetenthal, between the Abendberg and the Bellenhbchst
(6870'), is reached by the road (walking preferable to driving)
to Miilinen and the (7 M.) village oi Saxeten {3G02'; Kreuz), which
will even repay the pedestrian. About I1/4M. higher up are the
falls of the Giirben and Weissbach, and the valley is picturesquely
closed by the Schwalmern (9137').
The Sulegg (7914'; 372-4 hrs.), an excellent point of view, is ascended
from Saxeten. We ascend by the (35 min.) GilrbenfaU to the Untere
Jfesslern-Alp (4806'), cross the Giirbenbach to the left, and several other
brooks descending from the Sulegg. Beyond the (1^/4 hr.) BeUen-Alp (6204'),
we turn to the right between the Bellenhochsl (6870') and the Sulegg, skirt
the E. slope of the latter, nearly as far as the Sulsalp, for V4 hr., and
reach the top in 1 hr. more. The ascent is easier from Isenjluh (p. 152),
via the Gummenalp and Sulsalp (372 hrs.; guide). — From Saxeten over the
Tanzbodeli Pass and through the Suldthal to (6 hrs.) Aeschi, see p. 176
(interesting; guide not indispensable).
Interlaken may also be made the traveller's headquarters for
many of the following excursions.
45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach.
Comp. Maps, pp. 144, 160.
851. Diligence twice daily in I3/4 hr., fare 2fr.75c. — Carriage from
Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, or the reverse, with one horse 9, two horses
16 fr.; there and back, with 2 hrs. stay, 11 or 20fr. ; with a longer stay,
16 or 30 fr.; from Interlaken to Zweiliitschinen 6 or 10 fr. — Railway
from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, Miirren, and Grindelwald under con-
struction (to be opened iu 1890).
The road leads through orchards and meadows, by Matten, where
the road to Wilderswyl (p. 146) diverges to the right, and Osteig
(p. 150), to (2 M.) MiUinen. To the right rises the Abendberg, with
152 Route 45. LAUTERBRUNNEN. Berne/>e
the ruin of Unspuniien at its base ; beyond them are the Sohwalmerii
and Sulegg. The road crosses the Saxltenbach, and soon enters tlio
narrow gorge of the Liitschine. To tlie right rises the precipitous
Rolhenjluh. At a spot in tliis delile, marlied by an inscription on tlio
rock C/oM.), and named tlie Bosenstein, a baron of Rothenfluh is said
to have slain liis brother.
The valley expands, and divides into two branches near ('2'/4M.)
Zweiliitschinen(213'2'; Bar, dear), a village on the right bank of the
Liitschine. The valley of the Black Liitschine to the left ascends to
Grindelwald (p. 153; view of the Wetterhorn in the background);
that of the White Liitschine leads in a straight direction to(3'/4M.)
Lauterbrunnen. The valley of Lauterbrunnen begins at the Hunnen-
fluh , a rock resembling a gigantic round tower, and is bounded by
precipitous limestone rocks, 1000-1500' in height. It derives its
name (iauter Brunnen, 'nothing but springs') from the numerous
streams which descend from the rocks, or from the springs which
rise at their bases in summer.
Interesting excursion to (IV4 lir.) Isenfluh (3600'; "Pens. Isenfluh, 5 fr.).
About '/2 M- trom Zweiliitscliinen the l)ridle-path diverges to the right
from the Lauterbrunnen road and ascends the steep W. slope of the valley
(shade after 3 p.m. ; a second path ascends by the Sausbach opposite the
Hunnenfluh, see above). Isenfluh commands a splendid view of the Jung-
frau. A still finer view is obtained from the path from Isenfluh to Murren
(31/4 hrs.; guide necessary only for novices; from Zweiliitschinen to Miir-
ren 7 fr.j. At the upper end of the village (','4 hr.) this path turns to the
left and ascends to the (V4 hr.) Sausbach (5050'), and tlicn more steeply
for 25 min. to the Fliisc/ncaldweid (5608'). Ilere we turn to the left and
proceed to the chalets of Alpligen (5792'), where we descend. The path,
which commands a fine view of the Jungfrau and its neighbours , next
traverses the Pleisc/ien-Alps, crosses the Pletscliback and the Spissbach,
joins the (l'/4 hr.) Lauterbrunnen path, and reaches (35 min.) Miirren (p.
154). — Ascent of the Stilegc/ (7914'), 31/2 hrs., see p. 151. '
To Wengen and the Pens. Silberhorn (p. 15S) a path ascends in 3/4 I'r.
from the Lochmiihle on the Lauterbrunnen road, 2'/4 M. from Zweiliitschinen,
crossing the bridge to the left (pleasanter and shorter than the steep path
from Lauterbrunnen).
8 M. Lauterbrunnen (2615'; *Steinhock, R., L., & A. 3-4, B. li/o,
D. 4 fr.; *M6tel Stuubbach, with view of the Staubbach, R., L., &
A. 3-4, D. 4 fr. ; guides, Christ., Joh., Vlrich, and Peter Lauener,
Heinr. and Fritz v. Almen , Fritz Graf, father and son, Friedr.
Fuchs , Ulrich Brunner , etc.), a pretty, scattered village , lies on
both banks of the Liitschine , in a rocky valley l/o M. broad, into
which in July the sun's rays do not penetrate before 7 a.m., and in
winter not till noon. The snow-mountain to the left, rising above
the lower mountains, is the Jungfrau; to the right is the Breithorn.
Carved wood good and cheap here.
From the rocky heights in the environs are precipitated some
twenty brooks, the best known of which is the *Staubbach ('dust-
brook'), 5 min. to the S. of the Hotel Staubbach. This brook, which
is never of great volume, and in dry summers is disappointing,
descends from a projecting rock in a single fall of 980', tlie greater
part of it, before it reaches the ground, being converted into spray.
Oherland. STAUBBACH. 4/5. Route. 153
which bedews the meadows and trees far and near. In the morning,
in sunshine, it resembles a transparent, silvery veil, wafted to and
fro by the breeze, and frequently tinted witli rainbow hues. 15y
moonlight also it presents a beautiful appearance. The best point
of view is in a meadow in front of the fall, to the left of a seat in-
dicated by a flag (20 c).
Beautiful walk (i'/s lir- there and back) to the fall of the *Truminel-
bach. We follow the Stechelberg road (p. 156) on the right bank of the
Liitschine for I'/a 31. to the Triimmelbach bridge, and diverge to the left,
either on this side of the bridge, or 2 min. beyond it, to the (5 min.) en-
trance of a narrow gorge (rendered accessible by steps and railings on both
sides ; adm. 50 c), where the copious stream, fed by the glaciers of the
Jungfrau , is precipitated into a round water-worn cauldron. During
sunshine three rainbows are formed in the spray, one above, another op-
posite, and the third below the spectator, a beautiful scene.
46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Fall
of the Schmadribach.
Comp. Maps, pp. Hi, ISO.
Bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen to Sliirren 2V2, Trachsellauenen 2,
the Schmadri Fall and back 2, Lauterbrunnen 21/2 hrs. — Horse 12 fr.; to
Miirren, Trachsellauenen, and back 15 fr. ; porter from Lauterbrunnen to
Miirren 6 fr. ; chair, fur each bearer (4 required), 6 fr. : sledge (rough)
for 2 pers. from the Pletschbach inn to Lauterbrunnen 5 fr. — Blountain
Railway from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren under construction (see p. 151).
One of the finest excursions from Lauterbrunnen is to Miirren and the
Fall of the Schmadribach. The walk takes a whole day, and is fatiguing
if extended to the Upper Steinberg (in which case a boy should be en-
gaged at Trachsellauenen as a guide) If not extended beyond Miirren, which
is the chief point of interest, the excursion may easily be accomplished,
returning by Stechelberg, in 6 hours. To Miirren, Gimmelwald, and Stechel-
berg a bridle-path, thence to Lauterbrunnen (3'/2 M.) a carriage-road. As
the view from Miirren is flnest byevening light, it is preferable to go first
to the Schmadribach, and thence toJIurren, and spend the night there. (The
path is in shade early in the morning and towards evening.)
The path from Lauterbrunnen to (2y.2 hrs.) Miirren, which is
very muddy after rain, ascends rapidly to the right about 200 paces
from the Steinbock Hotel, trends to the right, and crosses the Grei/en-
hach twice. Beyond the second bridge (20 min.) it ascends through
wood, crosses the FLuhbdchli, the (20 min.) Lauibach (tine water-
fall), and the Herrenbcichli, and reaches (25 min.) the bridge over
the small Pletschbach or Staubbach (4037'; Inn). In 5 min.
more, where the wood has been much thinned, we obtain a beauti-
ful view of the Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger, which remain in sight
for the rest of the way. Farther up, by (1/2^1.) a saw-mill (4923'),
we cross two branches of the Spissbach , and in 25 min. more reach
the top of the hill.
At this point a magnificent '*View of an amphitheatre of mountains and
glaciers is suddenly revealed: the Eiger and the Monch, the Jungfrau
with its dazzling Schneehorn and Silberhorn, the huge precipices of the
Sehwarze Monch rising abruptly fniu the valley, the wall of the Kbne-
Fluh with its conical peak to the left and its mantle of .spotless snow, the
Mitta'^horn, the Grosshnrn, the Breithorn (^ource of the Schmadribach),
the Tschingelhom, the Tschingelgrat, and the Ospallenhorn. This prospect
154 Route 46.
MURREN.
Bernese
IS far grander than fhat from the
Wengernalp, although the view thence
of the Jungfrau itself is unrivalled.
The path, now level, leads a-
cross pastures ia l/o hr. more to the
Alpine village of Murren (5348' ;
' Grand Hot. <1 Kurhaus Miirren,
It., L., & A. 5-6, B. li/-,, lunch
J, D. 5, pens, in July and Aug.
10-14, at other times 9-12 fr.; * Or.
Hot. des Alpes, good cuisine, sim-
ilar charges; Engl. Ch. Serv.},
where the Wetterhorn also be-
( ODies visible to the left, and the
^eflnen-Furgge to the extreme
right (p. 156J.
A more extensive viev? is obtain-
ed from the Allmendhubel (6358'; ^4
hr.), a height to the W., above the
^illage, and from the Obere Winter-
egg (5738'; Vz hr.). The path to the
1 itfer diverges to the left from the
I auterbrunnen path beyond the
1 ridge over the Egertenhach, 10 min.
tinm the Hotel Miirren (finger-post),
md ascends through wood to the Alp.
The best point of view is by the upper
chalet (to the right). Nothing is gained
bv ascending the hill to the left.
The =SchiIthorn (9748'; 3'/2-4 hrs.,
guide 7 fr.) is a very admirable point
)f view. The path ascends pastures
to the chalets oiAllmend{ou the right
lb the Allmendhubel, see above), and
f irther up enters the dreary ^^^(/eMaJ,
which ends in a rocky basin at the
foot of the Schilthorn (to this point,
li'/s hrs. from Miirren, riding is prac-
ticable; horse 12 fr.). Then a steep
ascent over snow, loose stones, and
rock, past the monument to Mrs.
Arbuthnot, who was killed here by
lightning in 1865, to the arete be-
tween the Kleiite and Grosse Schilt-
liovn, and without difiiculty to the
(ihr.) flattened summit. Magnificent
survey of the Jungfrau, the queen of
the Bernese Alps, and of the whole
chain (including the Bliimlisalp, to
the S.W., quite near), and of N.
Switzerland (the Rigi, Pilatus, etc.);
Panorama by Imfeld. Mont Blanc is
not visible hence, but is seen from
the arete, about 250 yds. to the W., a
little below the summit. — The de-
scent through the imposing Sejlnenthal
tp. 155) , by the Se'finenalp and the
Teu/ehlriicke (a fine point above
Gimmelwald), is longer by I'/z hr.
Oberland. TRACHSELLAUENEN. 46. Route. 155
than the direct path, but far more interesting (unsuitable for ladies). A
shorter way back leads past the Grane SeeU and down the steep Schill-
Jiiihe (guide advisable), and afterwards through the beautiful pastures of
the Schilialp , with views of the Jungfrau, etc. — Another route (inter-
esting ; guide advisable) crosses the Rothe Herd and the Telli (a saddle be-
tween the Grosse Hundshorn and the Wild-Andrist) to the DUrrenberg
Chalets in the Kienthal (see p. 156.).
From Miirren the path descends to the left; 10 min., we
cross the Mitrrenbach; 25 min., hamlet of Gimmelwald (4547';
*Pens. Schilthorn, plain, 5-6 fr., Engl. Church Service in summer),
on the brink of the grand Sefinenthal, which is enclosed by the pre-
cipices of the Biittlassen, the Gspaltenhorn, and the Tschingelgrat.
To the Sefinenthal, an interesting walk (as far as the Gspalten Glacier
and back 3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). To the W. of the Pens. Schilthorn
we cross the (5 min.) Schiltbach, and ascend by a beautiful path on the
left side of the Sefinenthal (with the superb Jungfrau behind us); then
(3/4 hr.) cross a bridge and enter a pine-wood, and lastly, in a grand
basin, with numerous waterfalls, traverse stony debris to the (^/t hr.)
Gspaltenhorn (or Kirchspalt) Glacier, at the foot of the Gspaltenhorn. Back
by the same route.
We next (1/4 hr.) cross the Sefinen - Liltschine , and ascend a
little, then descend. In 10 min. more we pass a fine *Fall of the
Sefinen -Liltschine on the left. Beyond a brook descending from
the right, 2 min. farther on , the path divides : the branch to the
eft descends steeply to (1/4 hr.) Stechelberg (p. 156); that to the
right (finger-post) leads to (50 min.) Trachsellauenen (4144' ; Hot.
Schmadribach, R. & L. 3' . o, B. 1 ^j^, pens. 5 fr.), a cluster of chalets on
the left bank of the Weisse Liltschine. The path, now ill-defined, still
following the left bank, passes (10 min.) a deserted silver-foundry,
ascends, first to the right and then to the left, round the projecting
rocks of the Nadla and past the chalets ('/2 hr.) of the Vnter-
Steinberg Alp (4480'), where it crosses (to the left) the Thalbach.
Ascending the pastures on the right bank , we pass a waterfall,
mount the Holdri, and reach ('/o hr.) the Lager Chalet, in sight
of the grand *Schmadribach Fall. The stream must be crossed
higher up by those who desire a nearer view, but this takes another
hour, and hardly repays the loss of time. — From the Obere
Steinbergalp (5794') , which is seen high up on the pastures to
the right (ascent 11/2 hr. from Trachsellauenen; guide not indis-
pensable), the *View is far more imposing; the Tschingel Glacier
lies close to us on the right, and we also obtain a good survey of the
Schmadri Fall. On the top is the Chalet Steinberg , a small inn
(well spoken of), and 20 min. farther on, near the Steinberg chalet
is a second small Jnn (dear).
A pleasant walk (boy as guide l'/2-2 fr.) may be taken from the Obere
Steinberg along the Tschingel Glacier, and via the Oberhornalp to the (I1/2 hr.)
beautiful blue 'Oberhornsee (G822'), magnificently situated in the rocky
hollow between the Tschingel and Breithorn glaciers.
Fkom Murren to the Obere Steinberg, direct (3 hrs.; guide 6 fr.).
About 5 min. beyond the third bridge on the way to Trachsellauenen
(where the path to Stechelberg diverges ; i hr. from Jliirren, see above)
we diverge to the right, and in 20 min. again turn to the right. Passing
(20 min.) a deserted shaft, we ascend to the right in zigzags (past a good
156 Route 40. SEFINEN-FtJRGGE. Bernese
spring) to (25 min.) a cattle-shed, and cross a precipitous gorge. Tlie
enclosure opposite marks the beginning of the Obere Steinberg-Alp. In
40 min. more we reach the Inn (p. 155), and enjoy a snperb view. Descent
■across pastures and through wood (Wilde Bck); then tlirougli a narrow
ravine, stony and steep, and under two timber-slides, to (I hr.) the chalets
of the Unter-Sleinberg (p. 155).
From Trachsellauenen to Lauterbrunnen, 2 hours. At (25 min.)
SicheUauenen we cross the Liltschine, which dashes wildly down its
rocky bed; and at the (1/4 hr.) Bridge of Stechelberg (3025'; Inn)
we reach the bottom of the valley and the carriage-road. Near
(3/4M.) Matten, a fall of the Miirrenbach to the left. At the(3/4M.)
Dornige Brilcke we keep to the right. We pass (•/2^I-3 ^ waterfall
of the Eosenbach, and (5 min. from the road) the interesting fall of
the^Trummelbach (p. 153). Then (1 1/2 M.) Lauterbrunnen (p. 152).
Passes (comp. Map, p. 178). From Lauteebrdnnen over the Sefinen-
FcRGGE TO THE KiENTUAL, not difficult, and on the whole attractive
(10-11 hrs. to Reichenbach ; guide 22 fr.). From (2V2 hrs.) Miirren (p. 151)
the path ascends via the Alp Boyanggen to the (3 hrs.) Sefinen-Furgge
(8583'), between the Grosse Ihindshorn (9620') and the liuttlassen (10,490';
p. 176). (The path by Gimmelwald and through the Seflnenthalis easier, but
1 hr. longer.) Descent (fine view of the Wilde Frau and Blumlisalp) past
the chalets on the Diirreiiberg (6545'), and on the Steinenherg (485G' ; night-
quarters) to the huts of Gorneren and down the Barenpfad to the (2 hrs.)
Tschingel-Alp (3783'j and down the Kienthal to (2'/2hrs.) Reichenbach (p. 176).
— From the Steinenberg-Alp over the Gamchiliicke to the Tschingeljivn, see
p. 176.
From Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg o^tiu the Sefinen-Furgge and
THE HoHTHURLi , a loDg and fatiguing walk (14 hrs. : guide necessary,
25 fr.). The night may, if necessary, be passed at the Diirrenberg chalets
or in the Frauenbalm'llut. Over the Sefinen-Furgge to the Kienthal, see
above. Before the path reaches the Sleinenherg Alp we descend to the
left, cross the Pochtenbach (the discharge of the GamcM Glacier, p. 176),
ascend to the Bundalp, and traverse pastures, stony slopes, and snow to
(4>/2 hrs. from the Furgge) the Hohthiirli or Diinden Pass (8875') , a de-
pression of the Oeschinengrat between the Schwarzhorn (9150') and the
Wilde Frau (10,693'), afl'ording a superb view of the Blumlisalp, Dolden-
horn, etc. (To the left of the pass is the Frauenbalm Club IIu(, p. 178.)
We now descend over loose stones and the rocky ledges of the Schafberg
(with the Blumlisalp Glacier quite near us on the left) to the Upper Oeschi-
nen-Alp (6470'), and by steep steps cut in the rock, to the Lower Oeschinen-
Alp, pass round the W. side of the Oeschinen- See (5223'), and reach (4 hrs.)
Kandersteg (p. 178).
"From Lauterbrunnen to Kandersteg over the Tschingei, Pass
(14 hrs.; 6-7 hrs. on snow and ice; guide 30 fr.), a grand and interesting
route, fatiguing, but for tolerable mountaineers free from difficulty. A
night had better be spent at (2 hrs.) Trachsellauenen or on the Upper
Steinberg (see p. 155). We now follow the W. slope of the valley to
the (3/4 hr.) Lower Tschingei Glacier, cross it, and toil up the left la-
teral moraine to the ('/2 hr.) base of the W. rocks, the ascent of which
is very steep at first; a nearly perpendicular part, called the Tschingellrilt,
is about 13' high. Farther up (40 min.) we come to turf (pleasanter; a
halt usually made here; superb view). 'Then again across debris in '/s iir.
to the upper Tscliingelfirn, an immense expanse of snow; for 20 min. we
follow the left moraine, and then take to the glacier, where the rope be-
comes necessary. A gradual ascent of I'A hr. brings us to the top of the
Tschingei Pass (9267') , where a view of the mountains of the Gastern-
thal is disclosed; behind us towers the most majestic Jungfran with her S.
neighbours, and to the left is the Eiger. On the right are the furrowed
Gspaltenhorn (p. 176) and the Gamchiliicke (9295' ; pass to the Kienthal,
p. 176). An additional hour may be devoted to visiting the latter, which
Oberland. TSCHINGEL PASS. 46. Uoute. 157
airords <a striking survey of the Kienthal, the Xiesen, and the Bernese
plain. To the left of the Tschingel Pa's rises the Multhovn (9978'l.
The descent across the snow is easy. (The W. arm of the glacier, bound-
ed on the right by the rocky walls of the Blumlisalp and the Friinden-
horn, and on the left by the Petersgrat, is called the Kandevfivn.) After
IV4 hr. we quit the snow for the left lateral moraine. The route de-
scends steeply, over loose stones and then over grass, to the Gasiernthal,
passing a spur which overlooks the magnificent ice-fall of the Kander
Glacier (which has receded greatly of late). We then for a considerable
time follow the narrow margin of a huge old moraine, which descends
precipitously on the right to the former bed of the glacier, 170-200' below ;
l'/2 hr.. bridge over the Kander; 6 min., the first chalet (coflfee, milk, and
two beds); '/4hr., Seldeii-. 2 hrs., Kandersteg fp. 178).
*FroM LaUTERBRUKNEN to the LoTSCnESTH.IL OVER THE PeTERSGRAT
(from Trachsellauenen to Ried 10-11 hrs.). trying, but very grand (guide
40 fr.). From Trachsellauenen to the (3'/2-4 hrs.) upper Tschingel Jim., see
p. 156. On the Firn we ascend to the left, between the Mutihorn and
the Tscliingelliofn, to the (3 hrs.) Petersgrat (10.516'), a lofty snow -arete
commanding a superb view of the Alps of the Valais. Then a steep descent
over snow, rockv slopes, and turf, either through the Ausser Fafler-Thal
to the Fufler Alp (10 min. below the Gletscherstaffel Alp, p. 297). or
through the Tellithal to Blatten and (3V2 hrs.) Ried (p. 182). — The Wet-
terliicke (10,365'), between theTschingelhorn andBreithorn. and theSchma-
drijoch (10.863'). between the Breithorn and Grosshorn, are difficult.
From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggishorn over theLauinenthor (12,000'J,
a difficult and hazardous expedition (18 hrs., the night being spent in the
Roththal hut), through the wild Roihthal, across the huge rock-arete con-
necting the Jungfrau (13,670') and Gletscherltorn (13,064'), and down the
Kranzberg-Firn and the Great Aletsch Glacier' to the Concordia Hut and
the Eggishorn Hotel (p. 304). — Over the Roththal-Sattel (12.330'), close
to the Jungfrau (p. 158), also very difficult and dangerous (19-20 hrs. to
the Eggishorn). — Over the Ehnefluhjoch (12,300'), between the Ebnejluh
and Mitiaghorn. very laborious, but without danger to experts (15-16 hrs.).
— It will repay a good walker to go as far as the Roththal Club Hut
(8860') in the Roththal (6 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, crossing the Stii/ensiein-
Alp), and to return the same way (a good day's walk; guide 15 fr.).
47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp.
Comp. Maps., pp. 144, Itio.
Two routes lead from Interlaken to Grindelwald : the Road by Zwei-
liitschinen and through the Ltitschenthal (12'/2M.; Diligence twice daily
in 3 hrs., fare 5 fr.) ; and the 'Bridle Path over the Wengernalp [road
to (8 M.) Lauterbrunnen, p. 152; thence to the Wengernalp 3 (descent 2).
Little Scheidegg 2/4 (descent '2), Grindelwald 2' 2 hrs. (ascent 3','2) ; in all
6V4 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, or 8-10 hrs. from Interlaken]. 'The latter
route, one of the finest and most frequented in Switzerland, should cer-
tainly be chosen in fine weather.
Carriage from Interlaken to Grindelwald, one-horse 14, two-horse
25 fr., there and back in one day 16 or 30, in two days 30 or 50 fr. ; to
Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald and back in one day 20 or 35, in two days
30 or 50 fr. ; to Grindelwald via Lauterbrunnen and the Wengernalp. the
horses being ridden by the travellers over the latter, for one day 25 or
80 fr., for two days 35 or 60 fr. ; to Lauterbrunnen. Miirren, the Wengern-
alp, and Grindelwald and back in three days. 45 or 80 fr.
Horse from Lauterbrunnen over the Wengernalp to Grindelwald (or
the reverse) 20 fr. ; Wengernalp and back 12, Little Scheidegg 14 fr. —
The ascent may be made on horseback, either from Lauterbrunnen or
Grindelwald, but in descending the traveller should dismount at the steep
and stony declivity near Grindelwald, as well as at the last precipitous
descent into the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Sledge from Wengen to Lauter-
brunnen 3 fr. (enquire at the hotels). A shorter route ascends from the
158 Route 17. WENGERNALP. Bernese
Lochmuhlc (near Zvveiliitschiuen, p. 152) to Wengen. Guide (11 fr.) un-
necessary. Chaises-a-porteurs at Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. The in-
terested advice of guides and drivers as to hotels should be disregarded.
i. The Road from Interlaken to Grindelwald crosses the
White LiUschine at (4V2 M.) Z^ueilutschinen (p. 152), and then the
Black LiUschine at Gimdlischwand , and gradually ascends the
picturesque, well-wooded Liitschenthal, enlivened with numerous
farm-houses. It then (3 M.) crosses the river four times within a
short distance , and ascends more rapidly (fine retrospective view ;
rfmts.) to (IV2 M.) Burglauenen (2995'). The fall of the Fallbach,
on the right , is insignificant in summer. Ahout 1 M. farther,
beyond a narrow part of the valley, opens the Grindelwaldthal, en-
closed hy Imposing mountains (Eiger, Mettenherg, Schreckhorn.
and Wetterhorn). On the right are the grassy and wooded slopes
of the Mannlichen, with the inn on the saddle to the left (p. 162).
Then (^^iM.) Grindelwald.
ii. From Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald over the "Wen-
GBRNALP. We cross the Liitschine by the Staubbach Hotel, turn to
the left, and after 3 min. ascend to the right. After a steep ascent
of 3/4 hr. we reach a projecting rock with a pavilion which affords
a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen Thai. (Adjacent is the small
*H6t.-Pens. Silberhorn^U. 1-2, pens. 4-6 fr. ; direct route to it from the
Lochmiihle, see p. 152.) Farther up, where (20 min.) a finger-post
shows the way to the right to the (1/4 hr.) *Pens. Wengen (5-51/2 fr-))
we turn to the left to the (8 min.) *H6t.-Pens. Mittayhorn, and next
reach the (5 min.) *Pens.Alpenrose (same proprietor; pens. 5-6 fr.),
with a new school adjacent. We then ascend the shady pastures of
the village of Wengen, straight towards the precipitous Tschuggen
(p. 160), at the base of which (1/2 lir.; auberge) the path turns to
the right; it then passes a second auberge (famous echo), skirts the
slopes of the Lauberhorn, and enters a pine-wood (marsliy at places ).
On quitting the wood (40 min.) we avoid the broad path in a straight
direction (which leads to the Mettlenalp, see below), and ascend to
the left , rapidly at first, over the pastures of the *Wengernalp to
the (3/4 hr.) '""HotelJungfrau (6184'; R., L., & A. 4-5, B. 2, D.
4 fr., telephone to the Scheidegg; carved wood by A. Zurfliih).
Travellers from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald generally halt here,
or at the Scheidegg (p. 159), between 10 and 12 o'clock, producing
a Babel of tongues, which is music to the innkeepers. To the W.
we obtain a good survey of the valley of Lauterbrunnen , with tlio
Staubbach (p. 152) reduced to a mere thread, its upper fall, and
the windings of the brook before its final leap. High above the
valley are the large hotels of Miirren.
The *Jungfrau (13,670'), with her dazzling shroud of eternal
snow, flanked by the Silberhorn (12,156') on the right, and the
Schneehorn (11,204') on the left, now appears in all her majesty.
The proportions of the mountain are so gigantic, that the eye in
vain attempts to estimate them, and distance seems annihilated by
Oberland. JUNGFRAU. 47. Route. 159
their vastness. The highest peak, farther S., is not visible hence or
from Lauterbrunnen. The base, as far as it is seen, is precipitous.
Avalanches. These terrible and magnificent phenomena are caused by
the accumulation of vast masses of snow and ice on the upper parts of the
mountains, from which, as the warmer season advances, they slide off by
their own weight with irresistible force. On the Wengernalp the traveller
will have an opportunity of witnessing the ice-avalanche, or fall of portions
of the glacier detached under the influence of the summer's sun. Seen
from a distance the falling ice, breaking into fragments in its descent, re-
sembles a rushing cataract , and is accompanied by a noise like thunder.
These avalanches are most numerous shortly after noon, when the sun
exercises its greatest power. Except that the solemn stillness which
reigns in these desolate regions is interrupted by the echoing thunders of the
falling masses , the spectacle can hardly be called imposing. The appar-
ently insignificant white cascade, however, often consists of hundreds of
tons of ice , capable of sweeping away whole forests and villages, but
fortunately descending into the uninhabited Trumleten-Thal, a deep gorge
between the Jungfrau and the Wengernalp.
Between 1811, when the Jungfkau was scaled for the first time by the
two Meyers of Aarau , and 1856 the ascent was only accomplished five
times ; but it has since been undertaken frequently, and though extremely
fatiguing, is unattended with danger to experts (guides SOfr. each; with
descent on the other side, lOOfr. ; porter 40fr.). The ascent from Grindel-
wald is much facilitated by spending a night in the Monchltiitte (p. 163),
G'/z-''' hrs. from Grindelwald ; thence over the Monchjoch and the Jung-
fraiifirn to ihe Rot/itlial-Sattel (p. 157) 4-41/2 hrs., and to the top in iVi hr.
more. (Travellers ascending from the Eugishorn Hotel spend the night in
the Concordiahufle on the Faulberg, 9417', 5 hrs. from the hotel ; thence
to the summit 6-7 hrs.). — The ascent from Lauterbrunnen by the Roththal-
Battel is difficult and hazardous. In 18?5 the Jungfrau was ascended by a
new route from the Roththal Club-hut fp. 157), leaving the Koththal to the right
(71/2 hrs., toilsome but not dangerous for climbers with steady heads).
— The Silberhorn (12,156') was ascended for the first time, in 1863, by
Ed. V. Fellenberg and Karl Baedeker (from the Wengern-Scheidegg by the
Eiger, Guggi, and Giessen Glaciers, in 12'/2 hrs.; difficult and trying). The
ascent by the W. arete was first performed in 1887 by Mr. Seijmour King
with the guides Ambr. Supersax and L. Zurbriicken.
The Mettlenalp (5580'). on the N. side of the Triimleten-Thal, also af-
fords a noble survey of (he Jungfrau. From the bifurcation of the path, 2 hrs.
from Lauterbrunnen and s/^hr. from theHotel Jungfrau (see above), we reach
the Alp in a straight direction in ^4 hr.; the Jungfrau is here visible from
base to summit. From the Mettlenalp we either ascend to the Wengernalp
inV4hr., or walk round the head of the Triimleten-Thal to the (1 hr.)
Biglenalp, with the Kiihlauenen Glacier. From the Biglenalp to the
Wengernalp ^/i hr.
A visit to the Guggihiitte (7972'), at the N.W. base of the Monch, be-
tween the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers . is recommended to good walkers
with steady heads (3-4 hrs. from the Wengernalp or the Kleine Scheidegg,
with guide). The passage of the crevassed Eiger Glacier, which has ad-
vanced considerably of late years , and forms a beautiful archway of ice
with a lofty waterfall at its lower end, takes 11,2-2 hrs. (step-cutting being
necessary from the middle onwards); then a steep climb of I1/2 hr. over
rock, debris, and patches of snow to the Club Hut, grandly situated.
Steep descent over the ridges of rock below the Guggl Glacier to the
(l'/2 br.) upper end of the Bandlaiiinenwand , and a somewhat difficult
clamber down this slope to the Biglenalp (see above).
A gradual ascent of 35 min. from the Jungfrau Hotel brings
us to the summit of the pass, called the Little Scheidegg, Lauter-
brunnen-Scheidegg , or Wengern-Scheidegg (Q~SS'; *H6tel Bellevue;
wood-carver Jean ZurfluJi). This ridge, which descends abruptly
160 Routed?. GRINDELWALD. Berne<e
on botli siiles, affords a striking view ol' the valley of (jriiuh^lvvald,
bouudeil on the N. by the mountains which separate it from the
Lake of Brienz (to the extreme left is the blunt cone of the Faul-
horn with its inn). On the S. line view of the Miiiirli, Kiger and
Jungfraii, with the Silberhorn and Sclineehorn.
The 'Lauberhom (8120'), a peak rising from the ridge which runs to
the N. from the Scheidegg to the Miinnlichen , may be ascended in 1 hr.,
or from the Wengernalp in I1/2 hr. (descent 1 hr.). This ascent is chiefly
recommended to those who have not visited the Faulhorn. View e.xtensive
and imposing. Travellers from Grindelwald add only I'/a hr. to their walk
by taking the route from the Scheidegg to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lau-
berhorn. Guide hardly necessary. — The Tschuggen (8278'; ascent more
fatiguing), which rises to the N. of the Lauberhorn, commands a more ex-
tensive, but less picturesque view. — Or the traveller may walk from the
Scheidegg along the E. slope of the Tschuggen to the (2'/2-3 hrs.) °Mann-
lichen {7694'), the N. summit of this ridge (p. 162). In this case the walk
from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald will take 9-iO hrs. The Miinnlichen
may also be ascended (with guide ; steep but not difficult) direct from
Wengen, in which case the way is not longer than over the Wengernalp
to Grindelwald. — The Fallbodenhuhel (7136'), reached in V2 br. by as-
cending the pastures to the S. of the Scheidegg, affords a fine survey of
the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers. — To the Gugrji Club Hut, see p. 159.
The descent to Grindelwald traverses stony slopes, poor pastures,
and sparse wood, passing the (1/4 hr.) Chalets of Mettlen (6250')
and (3/4 hr.) those of Alpiglen (5287'; Hot. des Alpes), on a com-
manding terrace. (The direct path hence 'to the Eismeer' Is inter-
esting and repaying, but should be attempted only by experts with
guides, ice-axes, and ropes.) Below Alpiglen (3/^ hr.), we leave
the bridle-path, which leads straight into a hollow, descend by the
path to the left, through enclosed meadows with scattered cottages
to the (20 min.) bridge over the Lutschlne, and then gradually
ascend in 20 min. more to the high-road. (Travellers from Grindel-
wald to the Wengernalp ascend to the right at the bridge.)
From the Little Scheidegg to Grindelwald a Footpath, pleasanter than
the above route, skirts the left bank of the Wergisthalbach , commanding
fine views, and leading for 1 hr. through pine-forest. Guide advisable.
Grindelwald. — 'Bae, at the W. end of the village, R., L., & A.4-5,
I?. IV2, 1'. 4-1V-5 pens. 10 fr.; *ScnwAnzER Adi.er, at the E. end, with a
pleasant garden, similar charges; 'Hot. Eiger, in the middle of the village,
B., L., & A. 3'/2, U. 4, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Hot. du Glacier, outside the village,
near the W. end, R. from 21/2, B. IV2, D. 4, A. 1, pens. 8 fr.; -Hot.-Pens.
Bdrgemer, R. 21/2, B. I'A, pens. 6-7 fr. ; "Hot.- Pens. Alpenruhe, R. 2,
B. l'/4, U. 2V2, pens. 5 fr. ; 'Pension Schonegg, by the post-office, with
garden, pens. 5 fr. — Guides : Peter Schlegel, Christian and Vlrich Aimer ^
Peter Baumnnn ('am Guggen'), Chr. Bohren, Rud. Kaufmann-Bohren, Utul.
Kaufmaiin - Kehhalden, Peter Kaufmann, Chr. Jossi, and many others. —
Fees mentioned in the description of each e.xcursion.
Grindelwald (3468'; pop. 3094), properly Gydisdorf, a large
•village of widely scattered houses, is an excellent starting-point for
mountain excursions, and also a favourite summer-resort, the situa-
tion being sheltered and healthful.
This place chiefly owes its repute to its two Glaciers ; but these
are very inferior to the Rhone Glacier and many others in Switzer-
land. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S., the
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Oberland. GRINDELWALD. 47. Route. 161
Eiger (13,042'), the Mettenberg (10,197'), which forms the base of
the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn (12,150'). Between these lie
the two glaciers, which form the source of the Black Liltschine.
To visit the *TJpper Glacier (horse there and back 8 fr.) we
follow the Great Scheidegg path (p. 160) as far as the (3/4 hr.) * Hotel
Wetterhorn (4040'; R. i'/2, pens. 4V2-5 fr.; cannon-shot 50 c).
near which we pass a memorial to Dr. A. Haller of Biirgdorf and
two guides, who perished on the Lauteraar glaciers in 1880. Here
we diverge to the right, cross the Liltschine and the moraine, skirt
the rock to the right, and in 10 min. reach the artificially hewn Ice
Grotto (tickets of adm. at the hotel, 1/2 fr.; a small fee is also usually
given).
Another way back to Grindelwald (guide not indispensable) is by a
path diverging before the bridge <,iver the Liitschine, and ascending the
left moraine to the Chalet Milchbach (auberge ; visible from below ; also
reached by a direct but rather giddy path from the grotto), which af-
fords a good view of the ice-fall. The path then enters the wood to the
right, where it is ill-defined, passing between the Mettenberg and the wooded
Offals', and then, becoming well marked, descends on the left bank of the
Liitschine and across the Sulz to (IV4 hr.) Grindelwald. — From the Cha-
let Milchbach we may, by means of ladders (not recommended to novices;
guide necessary), ascend several rocks on the N.E. slope of the Metten-
berg, pass through the Milchbachloch and a natural tunnel formed by aa
old glacier-stream (sometimes barred by the ice) , and reach the glacier
opposite the Schlupf. We may return by the same route; or we may cross
the glacier and the Enge at the N.W. angle of the Wetterhorn, and reach
the Great Scheidegg or regain the Hotel Wetterhorn by a dizzy path
(2V2-3 hrs. in all).
The'Eisboden (4400'), a beautiful, shady pasture, 20 min. E. of the Hot.
Wetterhorn , and close to the base of the Wetterhorn , affords a noble
survey of the glacier, Mettenberg, Schreckhorner, and Grindelwald Valley.
To the Lower Glacier (3543' at the base), which is much larger
than the upper, a bridle-path descends to the right by the church
and crosses the Liitschine, and then ascends to the right through
underwood and over debris. (The path to the left leads to the Bar-
egg; see p. 162.) The road forks a few min. farther on beside a
refreshment-stall; we follow the right branch. The retrogression of
the glacier has exposed to view an interesting Gorge of the Liitschine,
which has been rendered accessible by means of wooden galleries
and steps (1/2 hr. from Grindelwald ; 50 c). A bridle-path ascends
the left lateral moraine to the (1/2 hr.) upper part of the glacier,
where there is an artificial Ice Grotto (50 c). Interesting excursion
thence across the crevassed glacier to the Baregg (guides with rope
and ice-axe necessary). If we turn to the left at the above mention-
ed refreshment-booth and ascend the moraine, we reach (15 min.)
a wooden bridge, affording an interesting view of the gorge (50 c),
and in 10 min. more a hut whence another artificial Ice Grotto is
accessible (50 c). From this point we may also ascend direct to
the Baregg path (p. 162). — In years when ice is scarce, this
glacier serves as an ice-quarry, the blocks being carried away on
sledges and by a tramway. — In returning from the gorge of the
Baedekeb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. H 12
162 Route 47. GRINDKLWALD. Bernese
Lutschine we may follow the tramway and cross the lower bridge at
the W. end of the village.
A visit to the lower *Ei3meer ('sea of ice'), the large basin of
n^v^ in which the glacier accumulates before it descends to the
valley, is interesting. A narrow path (guide necessary for the
inexperienced ; to Raregg 7, Zasenberg 10 fr. ; horse to a point
1/2 lir- below Biiregg 10 fr., not advisable) ascends the slope to the
left to the (2 hrs.) small Jnn on the Bdregg (5412'; dear), com-
manding a line survey of the glacier, to which a steep flight of wooden
steps descends. (Fee of 1 fr. for the use of the path, whether the
glacier itself is visited or not.)
Glacier Expedition. The following easy walk will make the trav-
eller more familiar with this icy region. We cross (1 hr., with guide) the
Eismeer to the stone chalet of ZSsenberg (6050'), surrounded by pastures,
and occupied by .shepherds in summer. Vegetation soon disappears. <>n
every side tower huge and wild masses of ice, and the view is bounded
by tlie in)po,sing summits of the Eiger, Schreckhorner, Fiescherhiirner, etc.
If the traveller does not go beyond the middle of the Eismeer (sufficiently
far), the whole excursion may easily be accomplished from Grindelwald
and back in 5 hrs. — The ascent of the ' Zdsenberghorn (7687'; magnificent
survey of the glaciers) takes V/2 hr. from the Zasenberg (guide 12 fr.).
— The Eigerhohle, a grotto visible from the Zasenberg (2 hrs.; fatiguing;
with guide) may also be visited. — Lastly, an interesting trip may be
made from the Baregg to the Zdseiiherghorn, Fiescherjirn, and Eigerhohle,
and back by the Kalli (p. 163; 5-6 hrs.).
The 'Hannlichen (7(394') is ascended from Grindelwald without diffi-
culty in 4 hrs. (horse 15 fr. ; guide 10 fr., unnecessary). Our path diverges
to the right from the Little Scheidegg path, after the Lutschine is crossed,
and ascends by the Itramcn Alp. Admirable panorama , from the Uri-
Bothstock and Titlis to the Bliimlisalp. About 20 min. below the summit,
on the depression between the Mannlichen and Tschuggen (p. 160). is the
small 'lUtel Grindelwald - Rigi (R., L., & A. 3V2-4, B. IV2, D. 4 fr.). —
From the Little Scheidegg (p. 159) we may ascend the Mannlichen by
skirting the E. slope of the Tschuggen (21/2-3 hrs.; with guide). From
AVengen (p. 158) a steep path ascends in 2'/2 hrs.
'The Mettenberg (Mitlelberg, 10,197') is recommended to mountaineers
(laborious, 6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr., from Baregg 12 fr.). Most imposing view of
the Schreckhorn, rising in the immediate vicinity, and of the Finsteraarhorn;
also a striking survey of the Eismeer and the valley of Grindelwald.
A.scent of the Jungfrau . p. 159; Finstevaarhorn . p. 174; Wetterhorn,
p. 165. — Grosa-Schreckhorn (13,386'; from the Schwarzegg-JJiitle 7-8 hrs.;
guide KXJfr.), ascended for the first lime by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1S61,
very difficult. — Monch (13.465'; first scaled by Dr. Porges of Vienna in
1857), ascended either from the Monch- Hiitte \iy the Monch joch (p. 163),
or from the Gtiggi-HiiUc (p. 159) by the Oiiggi Glacier and the Jnngfrau-
joch in 8-9 hrs. (guide 80 fr.). — Eiger (13.042'; first ascended by Mr. Ch.
Harrington in 1858), from the Wcngernal|) by the Eiger Glacier and up
the W. arete, 9-10 hrs. (guide 70fr.j. All these are for thorough adepts only.
Passes. To the Grimsel Hospice over the 'Strahlegg (10,994' ; 14 hrs.;
two guides, 40 fr. each), a grand, but toilsome route. The night is passed
at the liciregg (see above), or better in the Schwarzegg-Biitte (8200') by
the upper Eismeer, 5 hrs. from Grindelwald. Thence a steep ascent over
ice and rock to the (3 hrs.) pass, lying between the Gross-Lauteraarhorn
and the Strablegghorner; descent over the Strahleggflrn and ihc Fiiisteraar
and Unteraar Glaciers to the (3 hrs.) Pavilion Dollfus (p. 174), and the
(3 hrs.) Grimsel Hospice (p. 173). In the reverse direction (especially if a
night be spent in the Pav. Dollfus) the route is less trying and more in-
teresting. — Finsteraarjoch (11,024'; 15-10 hrs.; guides 40' fr. each), between
the Strablegghorner and the Agassizhorn, very trying, with splendid views
Oherland. FAULHORN. 48. Route. 163
of the Finsteraarhorn, etc. — lauteraar-Sattel (10,354'; 16-17 hrs.; guides
40 fr. each), between the Schreckhorner and the Berglistock, a fatiguing
pass, but without serious difficulty to proficients. The night is spent in
the Wetterhorn-Hiiite (p. 165}; thence we ascend the Obere Grindelwald-
Firn in 6-6 hrs. to the pass , which affords a grand survey of the Gross-
Schreckhorn, Lauteraarhorn, etc. ; we then descend a steep rocky slope to
the Lauteraarfirii (crossing a wide 'Bergschrund'' or cliasin) and the (3 hrs.)
Pav. Dollfus (p. 174). — Over the Bergli-Joch to the Urhachthal, see p. 172.
Passes from Orindelwald to the Egoishorn Tp- 304), for experts
only, with able guides. The Jungfraujoch (11,089'; guides 60 fr. each),
between the .lungfrau and Jlonch , leading from the Wengernalp to the
Eggishorn Hotel in I6V2 hrs., is very difficult and trying. A night is
spent in the Guggi-HUite (p. 159), and the Guggi Glacier is then ascended.
— The passage of the Koncbjoch (11,910'; guides 60 fr. eacli), 15 hrs.
from Grindelwald to the hotel, also very difficult, is facilitated by spend-
ing a night in the Monch-Hiitte (see below), or when the journey is made in
the reverse direction, in the Concordia- Iliitte (p. 304). This is comparatively
the easiest and finest of these glacier expeditions. From the Biiregg we
cross the lower Eismeer to the opposite moraine, and ascend the precipitous
KaUi for 272 hrs. ; then cross the much crevassed Grindelwald- Fiescher
Glacier to the (6'/2-7 hrs. from Grindelwald) Monch-IIiitte on the Bergli
(9745'), commanding a grand though not extensive view of the Fiescher-
wand, Schreckhorner, Wetterhorn, etc. From the hut a steep climb of
2 hrs. over rock and glacier to the (2 hrs.) Unter-Monchjoch (11,910'),
between the Miinch and Fieschergrat; thence either to the right over the
Oher-Afonchjoch (11,930'), between the Monch and Trugberg, to the Jung-
fraiifirn (p. 159) and down to the Great Aletsch Glacier and (5-6 hrs.) Eg-
gishorn Hotel; or to the left, over the vast Ewigschncefeld to the Aletsch
Glacier (the two routes unite at the Concordia Hut). — The Eigerjoch
(11,874'), between the Eiger and Jlonch, 22 hrs. from the Wengernalp to
the Eggishorn, a night being spent in the Guggi-Hutte (see p. 159), whence
the Eiger (ilacier is ascended, is verv difficult. — The Fieseherjoch or
Ochsenjoch (about 11,700'), E. of the Kleine Fiescherhorn, or Oc/is (12,812'),
22 hrs. from Grindelwald to the Eggishorn , is very toilsome and lacks
interest.
48. The Faulhorn.
Comp. Map, p. ISO.
Ascent of the Faulhorn from Grindelwald 43/4 (descent 3) hrs. ; from
the Faulhorn to the Great Scheidegg 3 (ascent 4) hrs. ; from the Scheidegg to
Grindelwald 2 (ascent 3) hrs. — Ascent of the Faulhorn from Interlaken by
the Scheinige Platte (p. 149) 8 hrs.; to the Platte 4 hrs. (descent 272), thence
to the Faulhorn 4 (descent 3) hrs. — Giiide (10 fr. from Grindelwald and
back ; if a night be spent at the top, 13 fr.) unnecessary. Chair-carriers 6 fr.
each ; if they pass the night on the top, 12 fr. (three generally suffice ; a
bargain should be made beforehand). Horse from Grindelwald and back 17
(or with one night out, 25) fr. ; to the top and back by the Great Scheid-
egg 30, with descent to Meiringen 35 fr. ; from Interlaken by the Scheinige
Platte to the Faulhorn and back 35, with descent by Grindelwald 45 fr. ;
from Meiringen to the Faulhorn 25 fr. — Inn on the summit (good but
dear, bed 5, L. & A. 2, B. 2 fr.).
The *raulhorn (8803'), rising between the Lake of Brienz and
the valley of Grindelwald, and composed of black, friable, calcareous
schist (the name being probably derived from faul., 'rotten'), is a
very favourite point of view, as it commands an admirable survey
of the giants of the Bernese Oberland (see Panorama). To the N.,
at our feet, lies the Lake of Brienz, with its surrounding mountains,
from the Augstmatthorn to the Rothhorn ; part of the Lake of Thun,
with the Niesen and Stockhorn, is also visible; to the N.E. are
11*
164 Route -is. FAULHORN. Bernese
parts of the Lakes of Lucerne and Zug, with Pilatus and the Rigi ;
then the Lakes of Morat and Neuchatel. The prospect does not,
however, embrace the hill -country of N. Switzerland, which so
greatly enhances the beauty of the view from the Iligi.
The Path from Guin»klwald to the Faulhorn ( 43/4hrs.)leads
for 3/4 hr. through enclosed meadows and past detached houses. From
the Biir Hotel we cross the road, pass a house on the right, and
after 50 paces pass through a gate. (Those who leave the Bar by
the yard-gate to the right should note that beyond the road they
follow the lower path to the left.) After 5 min., to the right;
10 min., at a cross-way, straight on; 5 min., to the right; 2 min.,
to the left past a cottage; then generally towards the E. The
footpath soon unites with the bridle-path; V2 li'-) agate, then a
wood, which we quit in 10 min. ; 1/4 ^""-i ^'^^ Hertenbi'M (5157'), a
large pasture with several chalets, in the middle of which the path
turns sharply to the left, ascending past a little cabaret into
(10 min.) wood; 10 min., to the right, past a small pond; 20 min.,
the path divides for persons descending (who here keep to the left) ;
a little farther, a gate ; 25 min., Waldspitz (6200'; Hot.-Pens. Alpen-
rose, well spoken of), with a splendid view. This point is nearly half-
way, the other half is less steep. To the left (20 min.) a pretty fall
of the Miihlibach , which we cross near the chalets of the Bach-
Alp (6496'). Good drinking-water issues abundantly from the rock,
10 min. farther. Then a moderate ascent of 2/4 hr. to the Bachalp-
See (7428'), in a stony basin, bounded on the left by the Rothihorn
(9052') and Simelihorn (9030'), and on the right by the Ritzengrdtli
(8282'). (By the stone hut the path diverges to the left for travel-
lers descending to the Scheidegg, see below.) The top of the Faul-
horn is now in view. The path , Indicated by stakes for guidance
in fog or snow, ascends rapidly for nearly 1 hr. over crumbling slate
and limestone. We pass another stone hut, cross the pastures at
the foot of the peak, and reach the top by a zigzag path in ^4 hr.
more. The Inn (see above) lies on the S. side, 35' below the summit.
The Path fuom Gkindklwald to the Faulhokn by the Bussalp is
recommended for the return-route to Grindelwald (guide necessary). Ad-
mirable view from the '■Bunf (7247'), which of itself merits a visit from
Grindelwald (21/2 hrs.).
The Path from the Faulhorn to thb Scheidegg (3 hrs.) di-
verges to the left from the Grindelwald path, near the (3/4 hr.) hut on
the Bachalp-See, traverses the stony slopes of the Ritzengrdtli, and
keeps nearly the same level for some distance; ^/o^v.^a, gate between
the Bach-Alp and the Widderfeld-Alp ; 5 min. farther, to the left,
not down the bed of the brook ; 10 min., the 'First', a ridge affording
a magnificent view of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn,
Grlndelwald-Fiescherhomcr, with their glacier, the Eiger, and the
valley of Grindelwald ; 8 min., we keep to the left and cross the
brook ; 7 min., we descend to the left over black, crumbling slate,
Irrhi
|S70
ilf
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c
Oberland. WETTERHORN. 49. Route. 165
and reach a gate where the Grindelalp begins. The path is now lost
at places , but soon becomes more distinct , the direction being
slightly to the left of the Wetterhorn ; 1/4 ^^- > * small brook is
crossed, and the path Is now well defined ; 5 min., a brook ; 10 min.,
a natural bridge over the Bergelbach; 5 min., the Obere Grindelalp
(6410'), with a spring; ^/^ixt., a gate, but we turn to the right
on this side of the enclosure, pass through the next gate (12 min.),
and make for the top of a hill; 8 min., Scheidegg Inn.
In ascending from the Scheidegg, be careful not to turn to the left at
the bridge over the Bergelbach; farther on, where the path is lost on the
pastures, again avoid turning to the left, follow a direction parallel with
a long enclosure lying a little to the left, and make for the slope of the
mountain, at the foot of which the path is regained.
The view from the Faulhorn is partially intercepted by the neigh-
bouring group of the Simelihorn (9030') and the Rothihorn (9052') , rising
between the Finsteraarhorn and the Schreckhorn, and, though not without
picturesque effect , concealing part of the Alpine chain , the valley of
Orindelwald , and the two glacier-tongues. The latter, from which the
magnificent view is uninterrupted, is easily ascended from the Bachalp-See
in IV2 hr. (guide advisable).
The view is still grander and more extensive from the Schwarzhorn
(9613'), which, with the Wildgerst (9488'), intercepts the view from the Faul-
horn on the E. side. (The lakes of Lungern, Sarnen, Alpnach, and Kiisnacht
are visible hence , all lying in the same line.) The ascent is made from
the Great Scheidegg by the Grindelalp and the Krinnenboden in S'/z-i hrs.;
or from Rosenlaui by the upper Breitenboden-Alp (6560') , to which there
is a bridle-path, and the little Blaue Gletscher, in 5 hrs.; or from Axalp
(p. 171) in 4-5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.).
From the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhorn, see p. 150. In descend-
ing from the Faulhorn, the path is easily found if we are shown the
beginning of it and follow the direction indicated by heaps of stones. The
only doubtful point is 1 hr. beyond the Sdgisthal-See (p. 150), or 10 min.
beyond the top of the ridge bounding the Sagisthal on theW., where we
keep to the right at the same level, instead of descending to the left.
Ascent of the Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 6 hrs., see p. 170.
49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosen-
laui. Falls of the Eeichenbach.
Comp. Map., p. 160.
6^4 brs. : From Grindelwald to the Great Scheidegg 3 (descent 2) hrs.,
from the Scheidegg to Rosenlaui I3/4 (ascent 2'/2) hrs. , from Rosenlaui to
Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hours. Guide (unnecessary) 12 fr. ; by the Faul-
horn and Scheidegg 21 fr. ; horse 25 fr. ; from Meiringen to Rosenlaui 12,
Scheidegg 15 fr. — Riding practicable the whole way, but the Reichen-
bach Falls must be visited on foot.
The path (footpath to the right, 1 min. beyond Grindelwald
church) ascends gradually through rich pastures, passing the (1 hr.)
*H6tel Wetterhorn (4042'; path to the Upper Grindelwald Glacier,
p. 161). In the foreground towers the magnificent and almost per-
pendicular *Wetterhom (12,150'), with its three peaks.
The \V. peak, the Vordere Wetterhorn or Hasli-Jungfrau (12,150'), and
the E. peak {Rosenhorn , 12,110') were first ascended in 1844, and the
Mittelhorn (12,165') the following year. The ascent has often been made
since, and is free from serious difficulty, though requiring perseverance
and a steady head (guides 60 fr. each). The night is spent in the ^Yetter-
horn Hut (7695'), above the aieckxtein (7520'), on the arete descending from
1 GG Route 49. GREAT SCHEIDEGG. Bernese
the Wetterhorn to the Upper Grindelwald Glacier, 4Vz hrs. from Grindel-
wald. Thence over the Krinnen- Firn and the Sdtteli to the W. peak
5-6 hrs. — Descent to the Dossen Hut (and Rosenlaui or Innertkirchen),
see pp. 167. 172. — From the Wetterhorn Hut over (he Beryli-Joch to
the Urbachtfial, see p. 172. From the Berglistock (12,000'), to the right of
the Berglijnch (4V2-5 hrs. from the club-hut), a superb view of the Schreck-
horner, Wetterhorner, etc.
Avalanches descend in spring from the Wetterhorn in four
different directions, the snow sometimes extending to the path at
places and remaining unmelted in summer. As travellers pass the
( l'/2 hr.) Obere Lauchbuhl-Hiitte (5900'), and at various other points
of the way, they are greeted with a blast of the Alpine horn, an in-
strument of bark or wood, 6-8' long, the not unpleasing notes of
which are echoed a few seconds later by the precipices of the Wetter-
horn. A shot will also be fired for a fee of 50 c.
The ('/2 hr-) Great Scheidegg or Hasli-Scheidegg (6430'; Inn,
mediocre, R. & L. 3Y2) D. 3'/.2 fr. ; horse to the Faulhorn, 4 hrs.,
12 fr.), also called the Eselsrucken, a ridge 1 M. long and only a
few paces broad, commands a striking view towards the W. The
smiling valley of Grindelwald, bounded on the S.W. by the pastures
and woods of the Little Scheidegg, contrasts picturesquely with the
bare precipices of the Wetterhorn, which tower above us to a giddy
height. To the S.W. of the Wetterhorn are the Mettenberg, Fie-
schergrat, Monch, Eiger, and lastly the Tschingelgrat , Gspalten-
horn, and Bliimlisalp. Towards the N. the view is intercepted by
the sombre Schwarzhorn and other peaks of the Faulhorn chain.
High up on the right, between the Wetterhorn and Wellborn, lies
the Schwarzwald Glacier, which has greatly decreased of late.
Travellers from Jleiringen who do not wish to ascend the Faulhorn
should at least follow the Faulhorn path as far as (V2 hr.) the Obere Grin-
delalp (p. 165), in order to obtain a grand view of the Schreckhorn , the
Upper Grindelwald Glacier, and the Fieschergrat. From the Grindelalp
the direct descent to Grindelwald (beyond the well follow the Faulhorn
path for 5 min. more, then turn to left) is not longer than from the Schei-
degg. — Schwarzhorn^ see p. 165.
Immediately below the Scheidegg we turn to the left and soon
enter a wood. On the right are the precipices of the Wellhori),
with the Schwarzwald Glacier. This part of the route, passing
several chalets, is attractive and varied. We next reach (1 hr.) the
Pension zum Schwarzwaldgletsoiter (R., L., & A. 21/4, D. 2-3, S.
l'/.2-2fr.; well spoken of), finely situated ; then cross the Gems-
bach, and on the Breitenboden Alp (4650') reach the Reichenbach,
where the path divides. The path to the left, affording glimpses
of the Rosenlaui Glacier, follows the left bank of the Reichenbach,
and leads in i/o hr. to the Gschwandenmad Alp (p. 167); that to the
right ('/4 hr. longer) crosses the Reichenbach, which forms a tine
cascade near Rosenlaui, and leads on the right bank to the (20 min.)
Baths of Rosenlaui (4363' ; *Hot. <$rens., R., L., & A. 31/2, !>• i^/2,
pens. 8 fr. ; Alpine carved wood at Ahplanalj) i).
Before the Kaths are reached, at the imint where the forest is quitted,
a path to the right leads to the Rosenlaui Glacier, imbedded between
Oberland. REICHENBACH FALLS. 49. Route. 1 G7
the Wellhorn (10,486') and the Engelhorn (9133'), and famed for the beauty
and purity of its ice. Of late years it has receded so much that an
ascent of 1V2-2 hrs. , very rough towards the end, must be made in ordei
to obtain a survey of it; but the grand rock-scenery will in itself repay
the fatigue.
Above Rosenlaui lies the Dossen-Hiltte (about 8850'; 6 hrs.), grandly
situated, an interesting point for good mountaineers (reached also from Im-
Hof through the Urbachihal in 8 hrs., see p. 172). This is the starting-point
for the Dossenhovn (10,303'; 1 hr.). the Renfenhorn (10,T77'; 2'/2 hrs.), the
Hangend-GUtscherhovn (10,810'; 4 hrs.), and above all for the Wettevhorn
(12,149'; 4 hrs.). Descent from the Wetterhorn to the (3' '2 hrs.) Wetterhorn
Hut and (3'/2 hrs.) Grindelwald, see p. 165. — From the Dossen Hut we
may cross the WeUerUmmi (10,443'), the Gaiili Glacier, and the Gauli Pass
(10,260') to the Gri7nsel, 10 hrs., fatiguing; with this route the ascent of the
Eicigschneehvrn is easily combined (p. 174).
The path to Melringen now follows the Reichenbach. It leads
at lirst through underwood , and then traverses the *Gschwanden-
mad Alp, a beautiful pasture, enclosed by forest, a favourite resort
of artists. (The first bridge must not be crossed; in the reverse
direction, we keep to the river, avoiding the shortcut to Schwarz-
wald, p. 166.) The bare Engelhorner, the grand Rosenlaui Glacier
between the Dossenhorn and the Wellhorn, and the snow-clad cone
of the Wetterhorn to the right, together with the beautiful fore-
ground, present a picture unsurpassed in Switzerland, and most
striking when approached from Meiringen.
At the end of the Gschwandenmad Alp, 25min. from the Baths,
the Reichenbach is crossed for the last time. Following the right
bank, the path passes (1/4 hr.) a saw-mill and auberge , and soon
descends rapidly. Pleasant view of the Ilasli-Thal and the moun-
tains surrounding the Briinig and Susten. On the brink of the
slope, 1 hr. from Rosenlaui, is the small inn Zur Zwirgi (3202'}. A
path diverges here to the left to a narrow gorge of the brawling
Reichenbach, spanned by a wooden bridge (30 c; not worth visit-
ing). Farther on (omin.), another path, descending in steps,
diverges to the left from the bridle-path to the *Falls of the Reichen-
bach. It leads at first through wood , and then to the left across a
meadow, to a hut (adm. ^/.yit.}, the best point for seeing the Upper
Fall with its beautiful jets. In the morning the sun shines into
the gorge and forms innumerable rainbows. The Central Fall (Kessel-
fall) is guarded by another hut (25c.). At the foot of the hill is
the *H6tel Reichenbach (see below), from which a path leads to the
(I/4 hr.) Lower Fall (illumination every evening in summer). From
the hotel we cross the Williyenbrilcke to (1/4 hr.) Meiringen.
The falls are seen to the best advantage in the reverse direction,
ascending to the left by the Hot. Keichenbach, and reaching the highest
fall in 34 hr. from Meiringen. Farther on, as Rosenlaui is approached,
the Wetterhorn and the Wellhorn form a strikingly beautiful background.
Travellers from Rosenlaui to Im-Hof (the Grimsel, Engstlenalp, etc.),
may, omitting the Falls of the Reichenbach aud Jleiringon , save nearly
an hour by following the bridle-path for 5 min. beyond the path to the
falls, and then turning to the right by a footpath to the village of (25 min.)
GeisthoU (2628'), hidden among fruit-trees. Here we ascend the pastures,
and then rapidly descend the Kiichet (p. 171) to (40 min.) Im-Hof (p. 171).
168 Route 49. MEIRINGEN. Bernese
Meiringen. — "Hotel du Sauvagk (Zum Wildenmann), with garden,
high charges, R., L., & A. from 4'/2, D. 5 fr. •, "Hotel-Pension Reichen-
BACH, with the 'dependance' Des Alpes on the other side of the Aare, R.,
L., & A. 3V2 (in the dependance 2), D. 4fr.; omn. at the station; "Vic-
toria, Meikingekhoi', both near the station; "Coukonne, R. & A. from 3, D.
S'/zfr. -, "Ours, R., h-, & A. 2, B. 1, D. 2V2, pens. 5 fr. ; Pens, zum Stein,
moderate; Pens. Michel (brewery). — English Church Service in the Hot.
du Sauvage. — Guides: Melchior, Jakob, Jo/i., and Peter Anderegg, Joh. and
Kaspar v. Bergen, Kaspar and Melchior Blatter, Joh. Tdnnler, Kaspar Moor,
Kaspar Maiirer, Joh. and Andr. Jaun, Franz Glarner, Melchior Zenger, etc.
Meiringen [1968'; pop. 2809), the chief village of the Haslithal,
lies on the right bank of the Aare, in a level valley 3 M. in width,
surrounded by wooded mountains, above which rise several snowy
peaks. The Muhlehach, Alpbach , and Dorfhach, descending from
the Hasiiberg at the back of the village, form considerable waterfalls
(illuminated every evening in summer). They often overflow their
banks, and cover the whole district with rocks, mud, and the slaty
debris of the Hasiiberg. In order to afford a better outlet for these
torrents the Aare below Meiringen has been converted into a canal,
on both sides of which there are still extensive traces of their
devastations.
The Hasli-Thal (or Hasli im Weissland) is divided by the Kirchel (p. 171)
into the Untere and Obere Hasli. The inhabitants are generally of a slight,
but strong and active frame, and are remarkable for their picturesque
costume and pure dialect. According to tradition, they are of Swedish or
Frisian descent, and the opinions of several modern Swedish savants in
favour of this theory are recorded in a book kept at Meiringen.
"Gorge of the Aare (Aareschlucht). A road diverges lo the left,
beyond the (V2 M.) Willigenbriicke (see p. 167), on the left bank of the
Aare, and reaches ('/a M.) a small restaurant at the entrance to the wild
and romantic rocky gorge, which affords passage to the Aare through the
Kirchet (p. 171). The gorge was formerly only passable by means of a
raft or boat when the river was very low, hut a path (3' wide; 1550 yds.
long) has now been constructed at a cost of 1800^., partly hewn in the
rock, partly supported on wooden galleries (adm. 1 fr ). The best time
to visit this higiily interesting ravine is 9-11 a.m. jAfter a walk of about
20 min. we reach the end of the path descending from the Kirchet (p. 171)
to the 'Finstere Schlauche% by which we may return or proceed to
Jm-Hof.
On the Hasiiberg, 3/4 hr. to the N. of Meiringen, is the */f(3<. Pens.
Alpbach (5Vj-8 fr.), with a charming view, and IV2 hr. farther (good path
by Golderen and Wasserwendi) lies the village of Hohflnh (3443'; "Fran
Willy's Pension, unpretending), another fine point of view. (Hohfluh may
also he reached direct from Meiringen by Vnterfluh in I'/a hr.) From this
point the "Ilohenstollen (8150'; .splendid view) may be ascended by the
Balisa'p in 4 hrs. (with guide; from the Hot. Alpbach 7 fr.), or from Mei-
ringen direct, by the Mdgisalp and the Faulenberg in 5 hrs. Descent to
Melchsee- Fruit, see p. 124. — To the Briinig Pass see p. 123.
From Meiringen by the Briinig Raihvay to Lucerne, see R. 35.
50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz.
Camp. Maps, pp. Ii4, 160.
From Meiringen to Brienz (8 M.) Railway in 25 min. (fares 2 fr. Ul^l, i fr.
95, 80 c). — From Brienz (station) to Biinigen Steamboat 4 times daily in
1 hr., fare 2 or 1 fr. ; luggage additional , 50 c. for each box. From Bii-
nigen to Interlaken Railway (coiup. p. 143) in 12 min., fare 80 c. or 40c.
Oberland. BRIENZ. 60. Route. 1 G9
— Travellers going to a hotel at the E. end of the Hoheweg may alight
at the ZoUhaus station (comp. p. 170). Through-tickets to Interlaken
may be obtained at Lucerne and Meiringen, and on board the steamers.
The railway skirts the right bank of the Aare. The beautiful
Oltschibach and other cascades fall from the precipices on the left.
Beyond (5 M.) Brienzwyler (Hotel Balmhof), where it crosses the
Briinig road, it skirts the geologically interesting Ballenberg (23Sb'\
then bends to the right and follows the shore of the Lake of Brienz,
via Kienholz, to —
8 M. Brienz-Tracht (pop. 2535; Weisses Kreuz, with garden,
R., L., & A. 3, B. 11/2 fr. ; Bar, with garden on the lake, well spoken
of; Tell, rustic), a considerable place, 11/2 M. in length, pleasantly
situated on the Lake of Brienz at the foot of the Brlenzer Grat, It
is noted for its woodcarving , which employs about 600 persons
(Fliick's depot, etc.).
The Kdnzli, 1/4 hr. above the Kreuz, and the Churchyard alTord a fine
view of the lake, the Faulhorn, the fall of the Oltschibach, the Susten-
horner, etc., and to the IJ. the falls of the Miihlhach (often dry in summer).
The Brlenzer Rothhom (7713'; 5 hrs.; bridle-path for the first 4 hrs.;
guide, 5 fr., unnecessary; horse 15-20 fr.), the highest peak of the Brlenzer
Grat, is a famous point of view. Inn, 1/4 ^J"- from the top, closed. The
path ascends rapidly on the bank of the Trachtbach to the (2 hrs.) chalets
of the Hausstadt (5383') ; then for 1 hr. on the gentle slope of the Planalp,
watered by the Miihlbach, and lastly in zigzags to the (2 hrs.) top, on which
stands the boundary-stone of the cantons of Bern, Lucerne, and Unter-
walden. The view embraces the chain of the Bernese Oberland, with the
Lake of Brienz in the foreground ; a glimpse of the Lake of Thun beyond
Interlaken ; the Haslithal from Meiringen nearly to the Grimsel ; on the
other side the small Ey-See, the Lake of Sarnen, a considerable part of
the Lake of Lucerne with the Rigi , part of the Lake of Zug, a long strip
of the Lake of Neuchatel, and even the Lake of Constance. — Descent by
the Ey-See to Sbrenberg in the Kleine Emmenthal, and (6 hrs.) Schiipf-
heiin, see p. 128.
The Lake of Brienz (1857'), 88/4 M. long, and IV4-IV2M. wide,
500' deep near the Giessbach, and 859' near Oberried, lies 20'
higher than the Lake of Thun, with which it is supposed to have
been once united (p. 146). It is enclosed by lofty wooded rocks and
mountains. To the S.E. in the background are the snow-clad Sus-
tenhorner, to the right the Thierberge. The steamboat starts near
the station, touches at (5 min.) the village of Brienz, and then
crosses the lake to the (10 min.) Giessbach (see p. 170). The lowest
waterfall only (see p. 170) is visible from the steamer; above it is
the hotel, and to the right of the landing-place is the tramway sta-
tion. Farther along the precipitous S. bank is the small wooded
Schnecken-Insel, with its little chapel , and near it, on the bank,
lies the pretty village of Iseltwald (*P€ns. Seehucht, 1 4 M. to the
W., 4-6 fr. ; Zum Strand). The steamer then crosses to Oberried
and Niederried, charmingly situated among fruit-trees at the foot of
the Augstmatthorn (p. 151). Farther on, to the N., rise the ruined
castle of Ringgenberg on a height, with the church of that name,
surrounded by underwood and orchards, and the old tower of the
Church of Goldswyl, very picturesquely placed on an isolated hill.
170 Routed]. GIESSRACH. Bernei^e
On the opposite bank is the influx of the IJilschme, which descends
from the valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen. The lake gra-
dually contracts to a river, which is named the Aare and after-
wards falls into the Lake of Thun. The steamer stops at Bonigen
(p. 146 ; Restaur. Miihlemann), the terminus of the B'odeli Railway
(p. 145), which conveys travellers in 12 min. to Interlaken. The
station of (1^/4 M.) ZoUhaus is at the E. end of the Hoheweg.
3 M. Interlaken, see p. 146.
The Road from Bkienz to Interlaken (12 M. ; one-horse carr.
8-10 fr.) , on the N. bank of the lake, passes through (I1/2 M.) Ebligen, (2 M.)
Oberried, and (3 31.) Niederried ; then, high above the lake, it traverses a
rocky tract to (2'/-.! M.) Ringgenberg^ passes the small Faulensee (p. 149), at
the base of the hill with the old church - tower , and leads by Gohlswyl
(beautiful views) to the upper Aare bridge at (3 M.) Interlaken.
51. The Giessbach.
Hotels. Hotel -Pension Giessbaoh, a large new building, with a
restaurant on the ground-floor and a dependauce (the old hotel), R., L.,
& A. from 5-6, B. IV2, D. 4'/2-5, pens, from 10 fr.; also whey and well-
equipped water-cure, with electric baths etc. English Church Service,
Post and Telegraph Office, and Railway Ticket Office for the Briinig and
Thun & Berne railways at the hotel. — 'Hotel Beau Site, '/4 M. higher,
less pretentious, R., L., A., S., & B. 6, 1). 3, pens. G fr. — Carved wood
sold by C. Michel (formerly Kehrli).
'lilumination of the Falls , with Bengal lights , every evening from
1st June till 30th September (inmates of the hotel 1 fr. each, for the first
evening only ; other persons IV2 fr.).
Steamboat to Bonigen in 50, to Brienz in 10 min., see p. 168. On
Saturdays at 8 p.m. a train leaves Interlaken for Bonigen, in connection
with a steamer to the Giessbach, returning after the illumination.
Tramway (300' above the lake) from the landing-place (small restau-
rant) to the hotel (380' long; gradient 28V2 : 100) in 6 min. (there and
back 1 fr. ; luggage under 50 lbs. 50 c. , over 50 lbs. 1 fr. ; articles in the
hand free). The two cars, holding 46 passengers each, and provided with
powerful brakes, are connected by a wire cable, running round a wheel at
the top of the hill. The one car ascends, while the other descends, the
gravitation of the latter, weighted with water, forming the motive power.
The rails are 1 metre (39 in.) apart, and have a toothed rail between them
as on the Rigi line (rack-and-pinion system).
The *Giessl)ach, one of the prettiest and most popular spots in
the Bernese Oberland, was first rendered accessible in 1818 by the
school-master Kehrli (d. 1854). The stream, which is copious at
all seasons, rises on the N. slope of the Schwarzhorn (p. 165), and
on its way to the lake of Brienz forms a series of seven cascades
falling from rock to rock , the highest being 1148' above the lake,
and framed in dark green foliage. The terrace in front of the
new hotel affords a complete view. The falls are crossed by three
bridges. Paths ascend on both banks to the (1/4 hr.) second bridge,
from which to the third (I/2 hr.) there is a path on the right bank
only. A wooden gallery enables visitors to pass hehind the second
fall. Those who have time should ascend to the Highest Fall, where
the Giessbach , issuing from a sombre ravine, is precipitated under
the bridge into an abyss, 190' in depth. (_ Rest view from a pro-
Oherland. IM-HOF. 6'2. Route. 171
jeeting rock to the right of tlie bridge.) Above the highest bridge
there is no attraction. About noon rainbows are formed in the falls.
The *Rauft (2460'), a group of wooded rocks on the N. side of
the valley, rising abruptly 600' above the lake, commands a view
of the Lake of Brienz, the mouth of the Aare , and the alluvial dis-
trict of Brienzwyler ; opposite are the Brienzer Grat and the Brienzer
Rothhorn (p. 169); then, beyond Interlaken, part of the Lake of
Thun, overshadowed by the pyramid of the Niesen. A good path
leads from the back of the new hotel to the pavilion on the top in
20 min. ; another from the old hotel in 1/4 hr.
Pleasant walk to the Alpine hamlet of Enge, situated among beautiful
pastures. Pretty view at the point ('/2 hr.) where the path reaches the
lake. We then descend past the Ndseli to the Aare Bridge and the Mei-
ringen and Brienz road (p. 168). — About 3 hrs. above the Giessbach lies
the Axalp (5580') a liealth-resort with an unpretending 'Inn, whence the
Schwanhorn (9610') may be ascended by the Blatie Gletscher in 4-5 hrs.
(with guide; comp. p. 163). — About '/^ hr. to the E. of Axalp is the
Hinterbuvg-See (5000') , charmingly situated in wood at the base of the
Oltschikopf (21/2 hrs. from the Giessbach).
Ascent OF the Faclhoen (p. 163)rE05i the Giessbach, 6 hrs. (guide 6 fr.),
fatiguing at places, especially on the Bdttenalp, which is exposed to the
morning sun. To the S. of the Schwabhorn this path joins the bridle-path
from the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhorn (p. 150).
From the Giessbach to Interlaken (3'/2 hrs.). A good, well-shaded
path, crossing the first bridge over the falls, and bearing to the right (see
iinger-posts), leads to the ('/z hr.) Eochfluh , a charming point of view.
It then runs high above the lake and descends to (1 hr.) Iseltwald, from
which a road leads to (IV2 M.) Sengg, (3 M.) Bonigen, and (I'/oH.) Interlaken.
52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel.
Comp. Map, p. lOS.
10 hrs. : Im-Hof 3' 2 31., Im-Boden 41/2M., Guttannen 3 i hr., Handegg
2 hrs., Grimsel Hospice 21/2, summit of the Grimsel 1, Rhone Glacier ^^'4 (in
the reverse direction about 8'/2 hrs. in all). Road to Guttannen (one-horse
carr. 12, two-horse 20; to Im-Hof 6 or 10 fr. ; diligence to Im-Hof twice
daily, 1 fr.); then a good bridle-path, guide unnecessary. Horse from Mei-
ringen to the Handegg (and back in one day) 15, Grimsel 25, Rhone Glac-
ier 32 , Hospenthal or Andermatt 40 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier to the
Grimsel 6, to the Hospice 10, Handegg 15, Meiringen 30 fr.
Meiringen, see p. 168. The road crosses the Aare by the Willi-
yenbriicke (passing, on the right, the upper fall of the Reichenbach,
p. 167), and ascends the Kirchet (2313'), a wooded hill, sprinkled
with erratic blocks of granite , which divides the valley into the
Lower and Upper Haslithal. At the top (I74 M.) is the auberge
^Zum Lamm, where a Anger-post indicates the path to the 'Fin-
stere Aarschlucht' to the left (p. 168; pedestrians should follow the
path through the gorge, l 4 hr. longer than the road).
The road descends the Kirchet in long windings (short-cuts),
traverses the fertile basin of Hasli im tirund, and crosses the Aare
near (2'/4 M.) Im-Hof (2054'; *H6t. du Hof, R. & L. 2-21/2, pens.
5-6 fr., carr. and horses ; Alpenhof, R. 2, D. 2-3 fr. ; liestaur. Alpen-
rose), the principal village in the parish of Innertkirchen, where
the Susten (p. 125) and Joch Pass (p. 123) routes diverge to the left.
172 Route r)l>. HANDEOG FALL. From Meirim/en
Travellers from the Grimsel on their way to Rosenlaui and Grindel-
wald may go from Im-IIof direct, by Oeissfiolz, to the Upper Eeichenbach
Fall (comp. p. 167: enquire for the beginning of the path).
The Urbachthal (comp. Map, p. 160), opening here towards the S.W.,
deserves a visit. The path ascends to the ('/z hr.) narrow mouth of the
valley, is then nearly level for 1 hr., and afterwards mounts steeply to the
(2 hrs.) Alp f>c>trdtlern (4940'; beds), where the path to the Dossenhiitte
diverges to the right (see below), and to the (1 hr.) Mattenalp (6l02'j, at
the foot of the huge Gauli Glacier. In 1 hr. more we reach the Urnenalp
(7213'; rustic quarters). Thence over the Gauli Pasa (10,260') to the Grim-
sel, combined with the ascent of the Eieifjschneehorn, 8-9 hrs., fatiguing,
but very grand (see p. 174). — Over the Bergli-Joch (11,290') to Grindel-
wald, 16-17 hrs. from Im-Hof, very toilsome and hardly repaying. From
the Urnenalp (where we pass the night) we ascend the Gauli Glacier to
the pass , lying between the Berglislock (p. 166) and the Rosenhorn , and
descend the Grindelwaldfirn to the Wetterhorn Hut (comp. p, 165). — The
Dossen Hut (p. 167) is reached in 4'/2-5 hrs. from the Alp Schrattern (see
above), by the Alps Jllmenstein, Enzen^ and Fldschen. Thence to Rosenlaui,
ascent of the Wetterhorn, and to Grindelwald, see p. 167. All these expe-
ditions are for adepts only, with good guides. (At Innertkirchen, Jvh. Tdnn-
ler, Joh. Moor., Joh. tk Melch. Thoni, etc.)
Beyond Im-Hof the new road is at first level, and then gradually
ascends, on the right side of the picturesque valley, being hewn in
the rock at places and passing through two short tunnels. Running
high above the rapid Aare, it leads to (31/4 M.) Innere L/riye/d(2464'),
and then under overhanging rocks and through another tunnel to
(11/4 M.) /m-Boden (2933'), opposite the hamlet of that name on
the left bank. The road then crosses the Aare by a new bridge and
continues on the left bank to (8/4 hr.) Guttannen (3480^; Bar,
plain, R., L., & A. 23/4, B. IV2 fr.), the largest village in the Ober-
haslithal, lying in a broad basin. The pastures are covered in every
direction with heaps of stones, brought down by torrents. (Over
the Furtwang Sattel to the Trift Glacier, see p. 126; guide, An-
dreas Sulzer).
Beyond Guttannen (U^ hr.) we cross the wild and foaming Aare
by the Tschingelbrilcke (3733'). The valley contracts, and barren
black rocks rise on the right. Huge masses of debris deposited on
the less precipitous slopes testify to the power of avalanche and
torrent. On the right the Wissbach Glacier discharges its waters
into the valley. Crossing the Aare by the (20 min.) Schwarzbrun-
nenbriicke (3976'), and ascending a little, we reach (10 min.) a
spring of good water on the right. The Aare becomes more rapid,
and here forms a small waterfall. A pine-clad ridge of rock now
closes the valley. The paved path ascends over granite rocks, round-
ed and polished by glacier-friction (see p. 173).
From a bend in the path (35 min. from the last bridge, and 8 min.
from the Handegg Inn) a short side-path leads to the left through a
chalet to a platform ('/.> fr. ) immediately opposite the *Handegg
Fall, a cascade of the Aare, which descends amidst a cloud of spray
into an abyss, 250' in depth. Grand as this spectacle is, it is still
finer when viewed from a point (adm. 50 c.) above the fall, which
is reached by descending for 5 min. to the left of the (8 min.) Han-
to the Rhone GL GRIMSEL HOSPICE. 52. Route. 173
degg Inn (4650'). The approach is easy and safe. Next to the falls
of the Tosa (p. 307) and the Rhine (p. 25), this is the grandest water-
fall among the Alps, owing to its height, its great volume of water,
and the wild surroundings. The stream is so rapid that it falls un-
broken halfway to the bottom, and in its rebound it forms a dense
idoud of spray, in which rain-bows are formed by the sunshine
between 10 and 1 o'clock. The silvery water of the Aerlenbach falls
from a height to the left into the same gulf, mingling halfway down
with the grey glacier-water of the Aare. The bridge which spanned
the river at this point was destroyed at the same time as the inn.
The sombre pine-forest becomes thinner, and even the dwarf-
pines disappear a little above the Handegg. The stony soil is clothed
with stunted grass , moss , and rhododendrons. About ^/o hr. from
the Handegg the path leads over rounded slabs of rock , called the
Bose Seite and the Helle or Hehle ('slippery') Platte, both worn by
glacier-friction. Opposite them the Gelmerbach forms a picturesque
fall. It descends from the Oelmersee (5968') , a lake on the moun-
tain to the left, between the Gelmerhorn and Schaubhorn, and may
be visited from the Handegg (1 '/4 hr. ; steep path).
The valley becomes narrower and bleaker. The path frequently
crosses the Aare, now a mere brook, and vegetation almost disappears.
Between the Handeck and Grimsel the only human habitations are
the (1 hr.) two chalets in the Rdterichsboden (5595'; milk) , the
last basin below the Grimsel, and perhaps once the bed of a lake.
The rocky , but well - made path ascends for a short distance
through a wild defile, and then becomes comparatively level. It
again crosses the Aare, turns to the left (where persons descending
the valley must avoid the turning to the left), and reaches (1 hr.)
the Grimsel Hospice (6148'; *Inn, R. & L. SVo, B. IV2, D.
4fr.), originally a refuge for poor travellers crossing the Grimsel,
and now often crowded with tourists. The small rooms are separated
by very thin wooden partitions. Carved wood by Hans Abplanalp.
This desolate basin, the Grimselgrund, enclosed by bare rocks
with occasional patches of scanty herbage or moss, lies 955' below
the pass (p. 175). Beyond the gloomy little lake, which is destitute
of flsh , lies the Seemdttli, a meagre pasturage, where the cows of
the Hospice graze for one or two months only. The jagged mountain
to the W., above the ravine of the Aare, is the Agassizhorn [iS ,i'20'),
the N. pedestal of the Finsteraarhorn (p. 174). The latter is visible
from a rocky hill 150 paces to the N.
Excursions from the Grimsel Hospice (comp. Maps, pp. 108, 160).
The °Eleine Siedelhorn (9075'; 3 hrs.; guide 4 fr.) , is an easy and
attractive ascent. (The Oros.te Siedelhorn (9450'), an inferior point of
view, lies farther to the S.W.] The path diverges to the right at the
bifurcation of the Rhone Glacier and Obergestelen routes. The last '/i hr.
is fatiguing, as the top of the mountain is covered with fragments
of granite. The view is imposing. Gigantic peaks surround us on every
side: to the W. the SchrecUhorn, the Finsteraarhorn, and the Fiescher-
17 4 Route 5l>. FINSTERAARHORN, From Meiringen
hfirner; to the N.E. tbe Galenstock, from which the Rhone Glacier de-
scends ; to the S. the Upper Valais chain with its numerous ice-streams,
particularly the Gries Glacier; to the S.W., in the distance, the Alphubel,
Mischabel, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. (comp. Dill's Panorama). — Tra-
vellers bound for Obergestelen (p. 303) need not return from the Siedelhorn
to the Grirasel Pass, but may descend on the S.E. side of the mountain
and there regain the bridle-path (guide advisable; comp. p. 172).
To the Pavillon Dollfus 3-4 hrs. (there and back 7 hrs.; guide 10 fr.).
The Aare is formed, to the W. of the hospice, by the discharge of two vast
glaciers, the Unteraar and the Oberaar Glacier, which are separated by the
ZinkenstiicTce. The Unteraar Glacier is formed by the confluence of the
Finsteraar and Lavteraar Glaciers^ which unite at the foot (8286') of the
rock-arete named '/»« Ahschwnng\ though for a long way below that point
they are separated by a huge moraine, 100' high at places. At the foot of
this arete the Swiss naturalist Hugi erected a hut in 1827, which in 1840
had descended with the glacier to a distance of 1900 yds. from its original
site. In 1841 and several following years the eminent Agassiz of Neu-
chatel, with Desor, Vogt, Wild, and other savants , spent a considerable
time here, dating their interesting observations from the 'Hotel des Neu-
chatelois', a stone hut erected under a huge block of mica-slate projecting
from the medial moraine. These huts have long since disappeared. M.
Dollfus-Ausset of Miilhausen in Alsace next erected the Pavilion DoUfus
(7676') lower down, on the N. side of the Lauteraar Glacier, now used as
a club-hut (comp. p. 163, and Maps, pp. 108, 160 and 304). A visit to this hut
is interesting and free from hazard. A bridle-path leads from the hospice
across the stony Aarehoden to (IV4 hr.) the foot of the Unteraar Glacier
(6160'). Here we ascend the rock to the right by a narrow path and then
traverse the rocks and debris of the terminal moraine. After about 40 niin.
we take to the glacier, which affords good walking, pass several fine
'glacier-tables', and cross the medial moraine and the Lauteraar Glacier,
which is here often considerably crevassed. Lastly we ascend a steep
slope to the (1 hr.) Club Hut, admirably situated on a rocky height over-
looking the Unteraar Glacier. Opposite rise the Zinkenstocke, Thierberg,
Scheuchzerhorn, and Escherhorn; in the background, above the Finster-
aar Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn ; and to the right of the Abschwung the
huge Lauteraarhorner and Schreckhorner. — We may continue our walk
on the glacier as far as (3/4 hr.) the foot of the Abschwung (see above),
where we enjoy a full view of the majestic Finsteraarhorn. In the med-
ial moraine adjoining the Lauteraar Glacier, nearly opposite the Pav.
Dollfus, is a fragment of rock bearing the names of 'Stengel 1844; Otz,
Ch. Martins 1845'', inscribed there during the scientific observations above
referred to. The rock, re-discovered in 1884, was then about 2660 yds. from
its original site.
The ascent of the "Ewigschneehom (10,930'; 4V4 hrs.) presents little
difficulty to adepts. From the Pav. Dollfus across the Lauteraar Glacier
to the foot of the mountain (8390') I'/a hr., to the Gauligrat (10,260') 2 hrs.,
to the top 3/4 •i"'- (comp. p. 172).
The Finsteraarhorn (14,026'), the highest of the Bernese Alps, was
scaled for the first time in 1812 , then in 1829 and twice in 1842, and has
pretty often been ascended since. Travellers from the Grimsel spend the
night in the Oberaar Hut (see p. 175). The route then ascends to the
GamUucke (c. 11,150') between the Rothhorn and Finsteraarhorn, and skirts
theW. flank of the latter to iXxa HugUattel (13,205') and the top (7-9 hrs.).
This is the most advisable route. On the ascent from Grindelwald, the
Schwarzegg Hut (p. 162) affords night quarters ; thence to the top in 9-10 hrs.,
over the Finxteraarjoch, the Agassizjoch (12,630'), and the Uugisattel. If the
Eggishorn be the starting-point, tbe night is spent in the (5 hrs.) Concordia
Hut (p. 169), from which wc ascend to the summit in 8 hrs. over the Griin-
hornlilcke (10,843'), the Walliser Fiescherfirn, and the Hugisattel. The ex-
pedition is fit for thorough experts only, with first-rate guides. Even when
the ice is in a favourable condition the ascent is difficult and very trying.
From the Gkimsel to Fiesch, on to the Eggishorn (p. 304), over the
Oberaar; of/i , 13 hrs. fatiguing, but interesting (two guides, 35 fr. each).
to the Rhone Glacier. GRIMSEL PASS. bJ. Route. 175
We ascend the Oberaar Glacier in 6-8 hrs. to the finely situated and well-
appointed Club Hut on the Oberaarjoch (10,624'), lying to the S. of the
Oberaarhorn (11,953'; which experts may scale from the hut in I1/2 hr.)-
We then descend the fitvder/irn, passing the Eothhorn (11,345'; at its S.
base, to the right, is the Rolkloch , a cave in which travellers ascending
the Finsteraarhorn used to spend the night); we then toil down the right
side of the crevassed Fiesch Glacier to the Slockalp (p. 304), and to the
Hotel Jtmgfrau-Eggishorn (p. 304; 7 hrs. from the club-hut). — Over the
Obekaar-Rothjoch (10,9(36'), to the S. of the Oberaarjoch, not difficult.
— Over the Stdderjoch to Fiesch, 14-15 hrs., difficult. The route ascends
the Unteraar and Finsferaar Glaciers to the Studerjoch (11,550'), between
the Oberaarhorn (see above) and the Studerhorn (11,935'; a splendid point
of view, easily attained from the pass in 3/4 hr.). Descent over the Studer-
firn and the Fiesch Glacier, as above.
From the Grimsel over the SiraJilegg and the Finsteranrjoch or Lauter-
aarjoch to Grindelicald, p. 162. — From the Grimsel to the Furka direct, over
the Nageliigratli, p. 116; over the Triftlimmi to the Trift-Jliitte., p. 125.
From the Hospice the bridle-path, indicated by stakes, winds np
the Grimsel Pass (7103'), connecting the Haslithal witli the Upper
Valais. After about 21/4 M. the road to Obergestelen diverges to
the right (see below). Beyond the (I/4 hr.) summit (Hauseck), the
boundary between Bern and the Valais, lies the small Todtensee.
In 1799 this 'lake of the dead' was used as a burial-place by the Aus-
trians and French. The former, with the Valaisians, had intrenched them-
selves on the Grimsel, hut were surprised by the French, whom Fahner,
a peasant of Guttannen, had guided over the Ndgelisgrdlli (p. 116), and
were driven back into the Valais. The French presented their guide, at his
request, with the Raterichsboden (p. 173), as a reward for his services, but
the government of Bern cancelled the gift a few months later.
Those who have seen the Rhone Glacier (p. 302) may descend direct
from the Grimsel to (21/4 hrs.) Obergestelen (p. 303) by the path diverging to
the right (see above) 1/4 l^r- before the top of the pass is i-eached. Splendid
views of the Valaisian Alps and the St. Gotthard group, and also, at the
beginning of the descent, of the fall of the Rhone Glacier. (In the reverse
direction 2'/2-3 hrs. ; guide desirable in foggy weather, 4 fr.). The ascent
of the Kleine Siedelhorn (p. 173) may easily be combined with this route.
From the pass our path leads to the left, on the N. side of the
Todtensee, and descends the Maienwand, a steep grassy slope 1300'
in height, carpeted with rhododendrons and other Alpine plants, in
view of the imposing Rhone Glacier and the Galenstock. The (3/4 hr.)
Rhone Glacier Hotel, see p. 302. Thence to Brigue, see R. 80 ; over
the Furka to Andermatt, R. 33.
53. From (Thun) Spiez to Leuk over the Gemini.
Comp. Maps, pp. Hi, ITS.
Diligence twice daily from Spiez to (9'/2 M.) Frutigen in 2 hrs. 20min. ;
(2fr. 65, coupe' 3 fr. 45c.); one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; to (19 M.)
Kandersteg 18 or 35 fr. — From Thun to the Heustrich-Bad omnibus daily
at 4 p.m. (21/2 fr.); carr. to Kandersteg 20 or 38 fr.
The Gemmi is one of the grandest and most frequented of the Alpine
passes. Road to Kandersteg (19 M. from Spiez) ; thence over the Gemmi to
the Baths of Leuk (53/4 hrs.) a good bridle-path (guide unnecessary) ; road
from Leuk to the Rhone Valley (21/2 hrs'. walk down, 31/2 up).
Thun, see p. 139. Steamboat to Spiez (*Spiezer Hof, Eng.
Church Service in summer), see p. 144; post-office near the land-
ing-place, where carriages also arc in waiting. The road, bordered
176 Route 53. HEUSTRICH-BAD. From Spiez
with houses and fruit-trees, ascends the hills on the S. bank of the
lake to Moos, where it joins the road from Thun, and (IV2M.)
Spiezwyler ; to the S.W. rises the Niesen (p. 142), with Wimmis
(p. 142) at its base, at the entrance to the Simmenthal (p. 186).
The road skirts the lofty right bank of the Kander. To the left
diverges the road to Aeschi (see below). The diligence halts at (3 M.)
Emdthal (Inn), the station for the *Heustrich-Bad (2303'), on the
opposite bank of the Kander, with saline and sulphur-baths, much
frequented (board 31/2-6 fr. ; ascent of the Niesen, see p. 142). To the
left a footpath ascends to (20 min.) Aeschi (see below). The road
crosses the Suldbach to (1/2 M.) Mulinen (2264'; *Bdr, moderate).
Fkom Spiez by JEscin to Mulinen (51/2 M. ; one-horse carr. 6, two-
horse 10 fr.), a much more attractive route than the above. Walkers ascend
by a somewhat steep path in 1 lir. (or by the road 4 M.) to .Xschi (2818';
"JJdt.-Pens. Bliimlisalp, pension 5-7 fr. ; ''Hdt.-Pens. Niesen), a village on the
height between the Lake of Thun and the Kanderthal, with a charming
view of the lake, and visited as a health-resort. (The Faulenseebad, p. 144,
is 1 M. to the S. E.) Descent to Emdthal or Miilinen, IV2 M. — Fkom
jEschi to the Saxetenthal, a pleasant route (T'/z hrs. ; guide unnecess-
ary). Road by Aefchi-Ried in the Suldthal to the (6 M.) Untere Suldalp
(3418'); then a bridle-path, past a fine waterfall of the Suldbach, to the
fl'/^hr.) Scfilierm-Alp (467.5'); ascent to the left to the (ii/2 hr.) Renggli-
Pass or Tanzbbdeli-Pass (6168'), between the Morgenberghorn and Ihe
Schwalmevn; then descend by the Sinter -Sergli- Alp to (I1/2 hr.) Saxeten
(p. 151). The Morgenberghorn (7383') may be ascended from the pass in
1'/2 br. (guide desirable for the unexperienced), or direct from .<Eschi via
Aeschi- Allmend, the Sonnenberg, and the Hulmad Alp in 5 hrs. The ascent
of the Schwalmern (9137') from the Suldthal is more interesting, but fit
for experts only, with guide; descent past the Sulegg (p. 151) to Saxeten
or Isenlluh. — Fiiom ^^schi to Interlaken by Kratligen (Stern), Leissigcn
(Steinbock) and Ddrligen (p. 145), a beautiful walk or drive of 9 M.
We pass (3/4 M.) Reichenbacli (2336'; *Bdr), lying to the left,
at the mouth of the Kienthal (superb view of the Bliimlisalp).
A narrow road ascends the attractive Kienthal, affording fine views
of the Biittlassen, Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp, to the (4 M.) village of
Kienthal (rustic inn) and (3'/2 M.) the extensive Tschingel Alp (3783'),
lU min. from which is the Pochtenbachfall with the interesting "Hexen-
kessel, a kind of 'glacier mill'. Thence over the Sefinen-Furgge to Miir-
reii (8-9 hrs.), and over the Hohthiirli to Kandersleg , see p. 156. To the
E. the valley is closed by the crevassed Gamchi Glacier, the source of the
Pochteiihach. Experts with able guides will find it interesting to cross the
GamchilUcke (9295'), between the Bliimlisalp and the Gspaltenhorn, to
(he Tsc/iingelfirn (p. 156). We may then either cross the Pelersgrat to
Ried in the Lotschenthal (p. 157), or the Tschingelpass to Kandersteg
(p. 156), or the Tschingeltritt to Lauterbrnnnen (p. 156). Distances: from
tlie T.schingelalp to Steinenberg 1 hr., end of the Gamchi Glacier I1/2 hr.,
Gamchiliicke 2V2, Ried 6-7, Kandersteg 6, Lauterbrnnnen 4 hrs. — As-
cents from the Kienthal : Biittlassen (10,490'), from the Diirrenberg-Hiilte
(2V2 hrs. above the T.scluns<'lalp, see p. 156), 3i/2-4 hrs., toilsome, but re-
paying. — Gspaltenhorn (11,276'), reached by the Leitergrat between the
Biittlassen and the Gspaltenhorn, very difficult (first scaled by Mr. Foster
in 1869). — "Wilde Frau (10,693'), from the Franenbalin Hut (p. 178) and
up the Bliimlisalp Glacier, 3 hrs. laborious.
The road crosses the Kander, and next reaches (33/4 M.) —
91/2 M. Frutigen (2717'; pop. 4033; Adler ; *BeUevue , with
pretty view ; * Helvetia), a village situated in a fertile valley on the
Engstligenbach , which falls into the Kander lower down. Matches
to Leuk. ADELBODEN. 53. Route. 177
are largely manufactured here. From the church we obtain a beau-
tiful view of the Kanderthal and the Altels , and of the Ralligstocke
and St. Beatenberg. — Ascent of the Niesen, see p. 141.
The valley divides here ; the S. arm, watered by the Kander, leads to
the Gemini. To the S.W. diverges the pretty Engstligen or Adelboden
Valley. A new road (to Adelboden 10 M.) ascends on the left side of the
valley to Aehseten and the Stecf (auberge), crosses the Engstligen and
follows the right bank to Eirzboden, recrosses the stream and ascends to
the village of Adelboden (4447'; ~E6t. Fens.-Wildstvubel; Adler : -Pens.
Jlari; guides, G. Fiihndrich and Chr. Egger), situated on a hill, and a good
centre for excursions. To the Engstligen Alp (see below), 2 brs., guide ad-
visable (abundant Edelweiss near the waterfall) ; to the Wetterianne in
the Allenbachlhal, with line view of the Wildstrubel and Lohner, 1 hr. ;
to the " Podifenkessel (p. 176) , 1 hr. down the valley , near the road,
then to the left to the little Rindicaldbad and through the wild Tichenten-
bnch Gorge back to Adelboden. To the Bonder Waterfall in the Bonder-
thai., there and back 3 hrs. , etc.
Passes. To Lenk a path , marshy at places , leads hence over the
Hahnenmoos (6410'), passing a large dairy establishment near the top, in
S'/'i brs. (guide 6, horse 15 fr.). Beautiful view, during the descent, of the
upper Simmenthal, the Wildstrubel, the Weissborn, and the Razli Glacier.
In the reverse direction 1 to l'/2 hr. longer.
Fkom Adelboden to Kandeksteg, an interesting route over the Bonder-
krinden (7831'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), a pass between the Klein-Lohner
and the NiiniUorn. Descent through the wild Oeschinenthal (p. 178). — A
shorter route, but steep and trying, crosses the Bondergrat, farther N.,
between the Klein-Lohner and the Bonderspitz, and descends by the Allmen-
Alp (p. 179) to Kandersteg. The Bonderspitz (8360'), an admirable point of
view, is ascended from Adelboden in 4, or from Kandersteg in 41/2 hrs. — To
ScHWARENBACH (on the Gemmi route) over the Engstligesgrat, 9-10 hrs.,
with guide (12 fr.), a fine route. From Adelboden we ascend the valley to the
S., passing the fine Slaiibfall, to the (2 hrs.) Engstligen Alp (GSdV), a grand
Alpine basin at the base of the broad Wildstrubel (p. 184). We then
cross the Engstligengrat, passing the curious Tschingelochtighorn (8990'),
and descend into the Ueschinenthali , with its little lake (far below to the
left lies the Ueschinenthal, p. 179). Then to the left, over the Schtcarz-
grdtli, to Tschalmeten, and Schwarenbach (p. 179); or we may traverse the
Ueschinentkdli Glacier, on the W. side of the Felsenhorn (9157'), and de-
scend through the Rothe Ki/mm to the Daubensee and Gemmi Pass. ■ — To
SiEEEE ovEE THE Steubelegg AND Lammeenjoch, 12-13 hrs. , for the pro-
ficient only, with able guides. From the Engstligenalp a difficult ascent
over loose stones and across the steep Strubel Glacier to the Strubelegg
(9613'), between the Steghorn and Wildstrubel (the E. peak, or Gross-Strubel,
iO,676'); then over the Ldmmern Glacier to the Lainmernjoch (p. 185); lastly
down the Wildstrubel Glacier and the Plaine Morte , and past the Monl
Bonvin (p. 295), into the liaspilly Valley and to Sierre (p. 295).
Our road crosses the Engstligenbach and the Kander (on the
right the ruins of the Tellenburg), and traverses the pleasant Kan-
dergrund. The church and parsonage of the valley are at (3 M.)
Bunderbach (2880'; Hot. Altels).
By a rustic cabaret, V2 M. beyond the Hotel Altels, a road diverges
to the right in 8 min. (and another, 1/4 M. farther, by a chalet, in 4 min.)
to the Blaue See, picturesquely embosomed in wood, and remarkable
for its brilliant colour (best by morning-light). -Pension on the bank of
the lake, 5i/2-7'/2 fr. Charge for maintenance of the mads and use of the
boat 80 c.; a ticket at l'/2 fr. entitles the visitor to V2 bottle of wine, for
4 fr. he may dine at the table d'hote (at 12.30), and for 7 fr. be may sup,
sleep, and breakfast at the pension; the use of boat included in each case;
otherwise refreshments are only procurable at a hut on the road-side.
Travellers to Kandersteg rejoin the road by a path in 5 min.
Bauuekek, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 12
178 Route 53. KANDEKSTEG. From Thun
Near (II/2 M.) Mittholz (3154') we pass the square tower of
the ruined Felsenburg ; we then ascend the Biihlstutz in windings
f short-cut for walkers , following the telegraph-wires), passing the
(33/4 M.) Buhlhnd (3885'; *Inn, plain, pens. 41/2-5 fr.) and reach
(3/4 M.) -
19 M. Kandersteg (3840'). — 'H6t. Victokia, k., l., & A. 23/4,
B. I'/z, D. 3V2 fr. ; *HoT. Gemmi, R. 3, L. 3/4 fr., in Eggensc/iwand, I1/4 M.
farther on, at the upper end of Kandersteg; 'Bar, '/< '*!• farther, near
the foot of the Gemini, R., L., & A. 3'/2-4, !>• 4, pen8. 7 fr. — Glides
(Jakob Imobersteg , schoolmaster ; Johann , Fritz , and Gilg. Ogi ; Chri-
stian, Gilg., Joh., and Samuel llari; Joh. KUnzi): to Schwarenbacli (un-
necessary; 3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr. ; to the Gemmi (summit of the pass, 4,
descent 23/4 hrs.) 7 fr. ; to the Baths of Leuk (5 hrs.) 10 fr. — Horse to
Schwarenbach 10 , to the Gemmi 15 fr. (the descent on horseback to the
Baths of Leuk is prohibited). Cauriages (return-vehicles cheaper): one-
horse to Frutigen 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; Spiez, 18 or 35; Thun, 20 or 40; In-
terlaken, 25 or 45 fr.
A grand panorama is disclosed here : to the N.E. is the jagged
liirrenhorn; to the E. the glistening snow-mantle of the Bliimlisalp
or Frau, the beautiful Doldenhorn, and the barren Fisistocke; to
the S.W., between the Ueschinenthal and the Gasternthal, the
lofty Gellihorn. On the W. side of the valley is an old moraine.
To the E. lies the interesting Oescuinen-Thal, containing the beautiful
•Oeschinen-Set (5223'), 1 51- in length. The path to it (I'/z br. ; guide 4 fr.,
unnecessary ; horse 8 fr.), bad and stony at places, diverges to the left by the
Hotel Victoria, and ascends on the right bank of the Oeschincnhach, partly
through wood. Above the lake tower the huge, snow -clad Bliimlisalp,
Frilndenhorny and Doldenhorn, from the precipices of which fall several
cascades. Boat on the lake (refreshmts. at the boatman's). We may either
row to the upper end of the lake, or walk round it to the left as far as the
Berglihach, opposite the glaciers. Thence to the Oeschinenalp and over the
nohthUrli into the Kienthal, see p. 156.
The Bliimlisalp or Frau, a huge mountain-group, covered on the N.
side with a dazzling mantle of snow, and on the S. side descending
in bold precipices to the Kandergletscher, culminates in three principal
peaks. To the W. is the Bliimlisalphorn (12,042'), the highest; in the centre
is the snowv peak of the JKe/sse Frau (12,012'); and to the E. is the
Morgenhorn (11,894') with the lower Wilde Frau (10,693'; p. 176), Bliimlis-
alpttock (10,562'), BUimlitalp-nolhhorn (10.828'), and Oeschinenhorn (11,450').
The Bliimlisalphorn was lirst ascended by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1860,
the Woisse Frau by Dr. Koth and Hr. E. v. Fellenberg in 1862, and both
liave frequently been ascended since. (Both toilsome, hut very interest-
ing. A night is spent in the Frauenbalm .&«< on the Diinden Pass. Thence
up the Bliimlisalp Glacier , 4-5 hrs. to the summit.) — The Dolden-
horn (11,968'), first ascended by Messrs. Roth and Fellenberg in 1862 (from
Kandersteg l.y the Bil,e7-g Alp' in 8 hrs.), is difflcult. — The Frundenhorn
(11,030'), lirst ascended in 1871 by Messrs. Ober and Corradi (from Kander-
steg by the Alp In den Friinden, "lO'/a hrs.), is also difficult. — Interesting
but toilsome passes lead from the Oeschinenthal to the Kander Glacier,
across the Oeschinenjoch (about 10,430'), between the Oeschinenhorn and
the Friindenhorn, and across the Friindenjoch (about 10,030'), between the
Friindenliorn and the Doldenhorn.
The Diindenhorn „t Wittwe (9410'), ascended from Kandersteg by the
Obere Oeschinenalp, a climb of 6 hrs., for experts only, affords a splendid
survey of the Bliimlisalp group. We may then follow the arete to the
Frauenbalm Hut (p. 156), and descend thence to Kandersteg (13-14 hrs. in all).
The wild '^Gasternthal, from which the Kander descends in pictur-
esque falls, deserves a visit (3/4-I hr.). A good path, diverging between
the Bar and Gemini hotels skirts the left bank and ascends steeply through
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toLe.uk. GEMMI. 53. Route. 179
the Klus (p. 183) to the upper part of the valley, bounded on the S. by the
precipices of the Tatlishorn and Altels. (Splendid fall of the Geltenbach.)
— Picturesque excursions (guide advisable for the inexperienced) may be
made from Kandersfeg, to the E. to the (2V-' hrs.) Fisi Alp (6448'), and to
the W. to the (2hrs.)^n?ne« ^Zp(5574'), both commanding line views.
From Kandersteg over the Bonderkrinden to Adelboden, see p. 177
(guide lOfr.) ; over the Liitschen Pass to Gampul (in the Valais), see R. 54
(guide 18 fr.); over the Tschingel Pass to Laulerbrunnen, see p. 156 (guide
30 fr. ; preferable in the reverse direction, as there are no inns in the
Gasternfhal, and the ascent thence is very long and fatiguing). — Over
the "Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal (10-12 hrs. from Kandersteg to Ried ;
guide 30 fr.), a very fine route. We follow the Tschingel Pass route to
the top of the Kanderfirn ; then turn to the right and ascend snow-slopes to
the pass (10,660'; splendid view). Descent through the Faflerthal or
Tellithal to Ried (comp. p. 157).
Beyond the Bar Hotel (p. 178), the road contracts to a well-
kept bridle-path, and ascends. On the right is the Alpbach, issuing
from the Veschinenthal, with several small falls. The path ascends
in windings at the base of the Gellihorn (7530'), on a slope which
terminates the valley, and then leads through a pine-forest high
above the Gasternthal (p. 183), affording line views of the Fisistock,
Doldenhorn, etc. On the right, 2'/2 hrs. from Kandersteg, we ob-
serve the chalets of the Spitalmalte (6250'). To the E., between the
snowy vliiei8(l 1,930') and the black rocky peak of the Kleine Rinder-
horn (9865'; adjoining which is the snow-clad Grosse Rinderhorn,
11,372'), lies imbedded the Schwarz Glacier, drained by the Sc/itwars-
bach. We next traverse a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip,
to the (1/2 hr.) *Inn of Schwarenbach (6775'; R., L., & A. 33/4, B.
11/2 fr-), with its little lake.
The 'Balmhorn (12,180'), ascended in 5-6 hrs., over the ScTiwarz Glacier
and the Zagengrai (toilsome, but free from danger; guide 30 fr.), affords a
magnificent panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, and extends
to N. Switzerland. — The Altels (11,930') is less interesting (5-6 hrs. ; guide
25 fr. ; much step-cutting necessary when there is little snow). — The
Wildstrubel (10,670'), ascended from the Gemmi over the Ldmmevn Glacier
in 4-4V2 hrs., is fatiguing, but repaying (comp. p. 185).
We next reach the (i/o tr.) shallow Daubensee (7264'), a lake
1 M. long, fed by the Lammern Glacier (see below), with no
visible outlet , and generally frozen over for seven months in the
year. The path skirts the E. bank of the lake, and, lOmin. beyond
it, reaches the summit of the pass, the Daube, or Gemmi (7553'), at
the base of the Daubenhom (9685'), the bare limestone-rocks of which
rise abruptly to the right. Adjacent is the Lammern Glacier with its
huge moraines (over the Lammernjoch to Lenk see p. 185).
On the route to the left is the small Hotel Wildstrubel ( R. 3-4 fr.),
commanding a magnificent view of the Rhone Valley and the Alps
of the Valais (panorama by Imfeld). The mountains to the extreme
left are the Mischabelhorner ; more to the right rise the Bninegg-
horn, the huge Weisshorn, the pyramid of the Matterhorn, and still
more to the right the Dent Blanche. At a giddy depth below lie the
Baths of Leuk, and beyond them Inden (p. 181). Abundant flora.
About 5 min. below the pass is a stone hut for sheep, on the
12*
1 80 Route r,3. BATHS OF LEUK. From Thxm
brink of an almost perpendicular rock, 1660' high, down which, in
1736-41, the Cantons of Bern and Valais constructed one of the
most curious of Alpine routes. From this point to Leuk it is up-
wards of 2 M. in length, and nowhere less than 5' in width. The
windings are skilfully hewn in the rock, often resembling a spiral
staircase, the upper parts actually projecting at places beyond the
lower. The steepest parts and most sudden corners are protected
by parapets. Distant voices reverberating in this gorge some-
times sound as if they issued from its own recesses. Unprotect-
ed as the path appears when seen from below, there is no danger,
even to persons inclined to giddiness , if attended by a guide.
(Descent to the Baths 11/2, ascent 2'/2 hrs.; the descent on horse-
back is now prohibited.) In 1861 a Comtesse d'Herlincourt fell from
her saddle over the precipice and was killed ; a small monument,
1/4 hr. from the top, marks the spot. From the 'Blaue Fluh' we see
on the opposite cliff a ladder (now inaccessible) and other relics of
an old guard house, up to the foot of which the gorge was once fill-
ed with debris. The openings in the walls of the meadows at the
foot of the Gemmi are used for the counting of sheep.
Baths of Leuk. — 'Hotel des Alpes, K. & A. 3'/2, B. li/-.>, D. i'/^) pens.
9-11 fr. ; 'Maison Blanche, with its d^pendance Grand Bain; 'Hotel de
France; -'Union, R., L., & A. 3, D. 4 fr. •, * FRfiRES Brunner , D. 3 fr. ;
Bellevde ; 'GuiLL. Tell, moderate; Rossli; Croix Fedkrale, unpretend-
ing. — Horse to Kandersteg 20, Schwarenbach 12, Daube 8 fr. ; Porter to
Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach 6, top of the Gemini 4 fr. (guides and porters
very importunate). — Diligence (from the Hotel de France) to the Leuk
station every forenoon in summer in 2 hrs. (5 fr.) ; one-horse carr. 12-15,
two-horse 25 fr. — English Church.
Bad Leuk (4630' J, Fr. Loeche-les-Bains, locally known as Baden
or Ober-Baden, a village consisting chiefly of wooden houses, with
673 inhab., lies on green pastures in a valley opening to the S.,
and watered by the Dala, 2920' below the Daube (Gemmi), and
2590' above the Rhone. In July and August the baths are much
frequented by French, Swiss, and Italian visitors. The massive
embankment on the E. side protects the village against avalanches.
In the height of summer the sun disappears about 5 p.m. The
huge, perpendicular wall of the Gemmi presents a weird appearance
by moonlight.
The Thermal Springs (93-123° Fahr.) , impregnated with lime, about
22 in number, rise in and near the village, and are so abundant that nine-
tenths of the water tlow unused into the Dala. They are chiefly beneficial
in cases of cutaneous disease. They vary in strength and temperatui-e, the
Laurence Spring being the most powerful. Their sanatory properties appear
to depend more on the way in which they are used than on their mineral
ingredients. The 'cure' takes 25-30 days. The patient begins with a bath
of half-an-hour, the time of immersion being gradually increased. From
the 6th to the 16th day the whole body is usually covered with an erup-
tion, which gradually disappears between the 18th and the 25th day. After
three weeks the daily immersion is prolonged to 4-5 hrs., 2-3 in the morn-
ing and 1-2 in the afternoon. After each bath the patient usually lies in
bed for an hour. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary soak-
ing, most of the patients, clothed in long flannel dresses, sit in a common
bath for several hours together, during which the water is not changed.
toLeuk. INDEN. 53. Route. 181
Each bather has a small floating table before him, from which his book,
newspaper, or coffee is enjoyed. The utmost order and decorum are pre-
served. Private baths may also be obtained (2 fr.).
Both the Old and the New Bath House now contain separate
basins for ladies and gentlemen, about 3 ft. deep. Spectators are no
longer admitted to the galleries, but may survey the scene through
windows on the ground-floor. The loud and animated conversation of
the patients , who appear to enjoy excellent spirits , is chiefly in
French. Both houses also contain shower-baths. All the baths are
open from 5 to 10 a.m. and from 2 to 5 p.m.
Excursions. A walk, partially shaded, and affording a fine view, leads
from the ^ Kurpromenade' to the foot of a lofty precipice (1/2 br.) on the
left bank of the Dala. Here we ascend by eight rude Ladders (e'chelles),
attached to the face of the rock, to a good path at the top, which leads in
1 hr. to the village oi Albinen^ or Arbignon (4252'). The fine view obtained
from a projecting rock above the second ladder will alone repay the
climber; but persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent.
The descent is more difficult.
Excursions may also be made to the Fall of the Dctla, 1/2 hr. ; Feuil-
lerette Alp (5850'), Y4 hr., with fine view of the Altels , Balmhorn , and
Gemmiwand; Fluh Alp (6710'), 21/2 hrs. -, Torrent Alp (6345'), IV2 hr. (For
longer excursions guides should be brought from Kandersteg.) The °Tor-
rentfaorn (9852'; 41/2 hrs.) commands a magnificent view of the Bernese and
Valaisian Alps; bridle-path nearly to the summit (horse 15 fr. ; guide
desirable, 10 fr.). The route may be varied by descending across the
Majing Glacier (guide indispensable). Travellers from the Rhone Valley
save considerably by going direct from the town of Leuk (see below) to
Albinen , and thence with a guide by Chermignon (6284') to the Torrent-
horn, whence they may descend to the Baths of Leuk. The descent by the
above-mentioned ladders , which is usually chosen by the guides, should
be avoided, especially in wet weather. The Gaimhorn (808U'), near Cher-
mignon, is also frequently ascended (2'/2 hrs. from the Baths, by the
Torrent Alp). Those who do not care to ascend higher will be repaid by
a visit to Chermignon, which aflbrds a capital survey of the Rhone Valley
and the Valaisian Alps. — Passes : To the Lotschenthal over the Gitzi-
furgge, or to Kandersteg over the Gitzifurgge and the Lotschen Pass,
laborious (comp. pp. 182, 183). To the Lotschenthal over the Ferden Pass,
interesting, and not difficult (comp. p. 182). To Adelboden over the
Engstligengral (7-8 hrs.), repaying (p. 177). To Lenk over the Lamniern-
joch (11-12 hrs.), fatiguing (comp. p. 185).
The road to Leuk crosses the Dala immediately below the Baths,
descends on the right bank to (3 M.) Inden (3730'; ^Restaurant des
Alpes), and then recrosses the (I1/2 M.) Dala by a handsome bridge
(*Inn) affording fine views of the ravine.
Pedestrians effect a great saving by following the old bridle-path
to the left from the Restaurant des Alpes. The path rejoins the road
before the bridge, and again diverges from it to the rigbt, beyond the
shrine of St. Barbara (2997'; guide-post), l'/4 M. beyond the bridge. By
this route the walk from the Baths to the railway -station of Leuk-
Susten takes 2-2'/2 (the ascent 3-3V2) brs. — A direct carriage-road to
Sierre diverges to the right from the Leuk road, ' -j hr. below Inden
in the Dala ravine, passing through several tunnels, and gradually descend-
ing the slope by Varen and Salgesch (to Sierre 2 hrs.).
The road quits the Dala ravine at a point high above the Rhone
Valley, of which a beautiful view down to Martigny is disclosed.
About 3 M. from the Dala bridge we reach ('21/2 M.) —
1^/2 M. Lenk, or Loeche-]'ille {^2ilO' ; pop. 1545; Couronne),
182 Route 51. RIED.
a small town on a height ^/^ M. from the Rhone, with a picturesque
old castle. The culture of the vine begins here. The road crosses
the railway and the Rhone by an iron bridge, to the (li/o M.) —
9 M. Leak Station (2044'; *Rail. Restaurant), see p. 295.
54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass.
Coinp. Map, p. 17 S.
12 lirs. A steep and rough cart-ruad leads to Goppenstein ; thence
to Eied and Gletscherstaffel a bridle-path. Guide fi'om Ferden or Eied
to Kandersteg necessary (15, or from Gampel 20 fr.). This route is fit for
good walkers only, in fine weather. The Liitschenlhal itself is worthy of
a visit.
From Gampel (2756'; Hotel Lijtschenthal) , on the right bank of
the Rhone, 1 M. to the N. of the station of that name (p. 295), the
road ascends the Lotschenthal , or gorge of the Lanza, which is
much exposed to avalanches. Mounting rapidly at first, it passes
the chapels of (1 hr.) Mitthal and Q/2 hr.) Goppenstein (4085').
Beyond Goppenstein the bridle-path crosses the (V4lir-)-^'^'**"' where
the valley expands, and leads to (Ihr.) Ferden (4557'; poor inn) and
(1/4 hr.) Kippel^ibii'- bed at the cure's). It then ascends gradually
by Wiler to (40 min.) Ried (4950'; Hot. Nesthorn, unpretending),
finely situated at the N.W. base of the Bietschhorn (12,966').
Excursions. (Guides, Peter Sigeii, Jos. Riibi, and others.) The Hoh-
gleifen (Adlerepitze, 10,828' ; 5-6 hrs., with guide) is not difficult. Superb
view of the Valaisian Alps from the Canton Ticino to Mont Blanc, the
W. Bernese Alps, the Lotschenthal and Rhone Valley, and to the E. in
the foreground the huge Bietschhorn.
The Bietschhorn (Oross- Nesthorn, 12,966'; 9 hrs. , guide GO fr.), first
ascended hy Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1859 , is very fatiguing and difficult,
and fit for experts only. The previous night is spent in the Club -hut
on the Schafberg (8440'), 3 hrs. from Ried.
Passks. Over the Petersgrat (10,516') to Lauterlrunnen (11 hrs.; 25 fr.),
fatiguing but highly interesting, see p. 157. — Wetterlucke (10,365') and
Schmadrijoch (10.863'), difficult, see p. 157. — Over the LolschenlUcke to
the Eggishoni. p. 3U5; over the Beichpass to the Belalp, p. 297.
Over the Baltschiederjoch (about 10,200') to the Rhone ViiUey (from
Ried to Visp 9-10 hrs.) , interesting but fatiguing. — The Bietschjoch
(10,633'), 8 hrs. from Ried to Raron, is a fine route, free from difficulty.
From Ried to Bad Leuk over the Ferdkn Pass, 8-9 hrs., with guide,
a very fine route , and not difficult. At the Ktimmenalp (p. 183) the
path diverges to the left from the Lotschenpass route and ascends the
Ferdeiithal to the Ferden Pass (8593'), between the Majinghorn and the
Ferden-Rothhorn. Descent over long stony slopes to the Fluhalp and through
the Dcdalhal to Bad Leuk (p. 180). — Over the Gitzifurgge (9613'),
9-10 hrs. to Bad Leuk, an interesting but laborious route. The pass lies
to the S.W. of the Lotschen Pass, between the Ferden- Rolhhorn and the
Balmhorn. Descent over the Bala Glacier to the Fluhalp (see above). — Over
THE Resti Pass, 7-8 hrs., also interesting (guide 12 fr.). From Ferden we
ascend over the iJij.s</-yHp (6926'; two beds) in 4 hrs. to the Resti Pass (8658'),
between the Resti-Rothliorn and the Laucherspitze (see below), and descend
the Bachalp to the town of Leuk in 3-4 hrs. more. From the pass we may
easily ascend the (8/4 hr.) Laucherspitze (9400'): admirable view of the
Alps of Bern and Valais, the Rhone Valley, and the Lotschenthal. —
To Leuk and Susten over the Faldum Pass (8675'), between the Laucher-
spitze and the Faldum-Rothhorn (9310'), or over the Niven Pass (8563'),
between the Faldum-Rothhorn and the Niven (9110'; a fine point of view,
'/•J hr. from the pass), both easy.
LOTSCHEN PASS. 54. Route. 183
TheLotschen Pass is reached from Ried in 3'/2 hrs. by Weissen-
ried, Lauchernalp, and Sattlegi. Another route ascends from Ferden
(p. I823 to the N.W. , through beautiful larch-wood and over
pastures, to the (2 hrs.) Kummenalp (6808'); then over rock,
de'bris, and patches of snow to the (2 hrs.) Lotschen Pass (_8842'J,
commanded on the W. by the steep slopes of the Balmhorn (p. 179),
and on the E. by the Schilthorn, or Hockenhorn (10,817'; ascended
from the pass in 2^/2 hrs.; splendid view). We obtain the finest view
on the route a little before reaching the pass itself: to the S.E.
rises the Bietschhorn, to the S. the magnificent group of the Mi-
schabel, Weisshorn, and Monte Rosa; to the N. are the rocky but-
tresses of the Doldenhorn and Bliimlisalp ; to the N.E. the Kander-
firn, overshadowed by the Mutthorn (9978').
The path descends on the right side of the Lotschenberg Glacier ;
near the end of the glacier it crosses to the left side and leads over
the Schonbiihl to the (IV4 lir.) GfdUalp (6036'; milk), overlooking
the upper Gasternthal. At the bottom of the valley we cross the
Kander to (i/o hr.) Gasterndorf, or Selden (5315'), a group of
hovels (the first, a small cabaret). The Gasternthal was more thickly
peopled at the beginning of the century than now; but indiscri-
minate felling of timber has so exposed it to avalanches that the
inhabitants have to leave it from February to the hay-harvest. Be-
yond a beautiful forest, which for centuries has resisted the avalanches
of the Doldenhorn , we next reach (1 hr.) Gasternholz (4462'),
amidst a chaos of rocks. The valley bends here and soon expands,
being bounded on the S. by the snow-clad Altels (11,930') and the
Tatlishorn (8220'), and on the N. by the Fisistocke (9200'). Of
the various waterfalls that descend the abrupt cliffs to the S., the
finest is that of the Geltenbach.
At the end of the valley the road enters the (1 hr.) Klus, a de-
file •^/4M. long, through which the Kander forces its way in a series
of cascades. In the centre of the gorge we cross to the left bank of
the river, and beyond its outlet we reach the Gemmi route, and (1/2
hr.) Kandersteg (see p. 178).
55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl.
Comp. Maps, pp. Hi, 178, 232, 2$4.
Diligence from Thun to Lenk (33'/j M.) daily in 8 Lr.s. C9 fr. 75 c.,
coupe 12 fr. ; one-horse carr. 35 , two-horse 60 fr.). From Lenk to Sion
(10'/2 hrs.) a Bridle Path, good on the Bern side, but rough on the other.
Guide desirable (to Sion 20 fr.). The Gemini is far preferable to the Ra-
wyl as a route to the Valais.
To (251/2 M.) Zweisimmen , see pp. 186-187. The Lenk road
crosses the Simme near Gwatt , and ascends the Upper Simmenthal
by Bettelried, passing Schloss Blankenburg on the right (p. 187),
to the prettily situated (3 M.) St. Stephan (3297'; Falke); then
to Grodei, Matten, at the mouth of the Fermelthal (p. 186), and
(5M.) —
184 Route 55. LENK. From Thun
331/2 M. Lenk (3527'; *Hirsch ,■ 'Krone, R. & A. 27.2, B. 1 fr. 20 c. ,
pens. 6 fr.; *Stern, pens. 5 fr. ; Kreuz), a village rebuilt to a great
extent since a fire in 1878, situated in a flat and somewhat marshy
part of the valley of the Simme. About 1/2 M. to the S.W. (path
in 7 min.), lies the *KuranstaU Lenk (3624'; R. , L. , & A. 41/4,
board 6-7 fr.) , with sulphur baths and grounds. The Wildstrubel
(10,670'), with its huge precipices and its patches of snow, whence
several streams descend, forms a grand termination to the valley.
Excursions. (Guides, Chr. and Joh. Jac. Jaggi.) The Himme rises,
4 M. to the S. of Lenk , in the so-called Siebenhrunnen , to which an
interesting walk may be taken (4 hrs. there and back). Road by Oberried
(passing on the left an isolated nummulite rock with a 'Gletschermiihle',
and view of the Wildhorn) to (IV4 lir.) Stalden (4232'), at the foot of
the falls of the Simme. A path now ascends in front of the saw-mill,
between alders , describing a curve on the right bank of the stream, and
skirting a deep gorge with fine waterfalls. It passes two chalets, traverses
pastures , and crosses the brook to (^4 lii".) the chalets of the K&zli-
berg (4583'; Fridig's Inn, small). To the S., the ^ Seven Fountains' (4744'j,
now united into a single stream, issue from the perpendicular rocks.
Farther on, to the left, is the Upper Fall of the Simme, which is con-
spicuous from a long distance. To the right rise the Gletsdierhorn (9672')
and Laiifbodenhorn (8878'), to the left the Ammertenhorn (8740').
The Oberlaubhorn (6570'), rising to the W. of the Riizliberg, is fre-
quently ascended from Lenk either by Trogegg in S'/zhrs., or hy Poschen-
ried and the liitzberg Alp (6T10') in 4 hrs., with guide; back by the Riizli-
berg, Stalden, and Oberried. — The *Miilkerblatt (6355') is well worth
ascending for the fine view of the Wildstrubel, etc. (2'/2 hrs.). Beyond
the Kurhaxis we ascend on the left bank of the Erummbacli, (10 min.) cross
it, traverse pastures and wood, passing many chalets, and mount the
Bettelberg to the top.
The Iffigensee (6826'), 31/2 brs., is also worth seeing. By the (2 hrs.)
Iffigen Inn (see below) we turn to the right to the (V2 br.) Stieren-Jffigenalp
(5512'; refreshmts.). The path, steep and stony at places, then ascends
to the (1 hr.) saddle which bounds the lake, and leads round its bank
to the right (where Edelweiss abounds) to the (V4 br.) humble chalet at
the W. end. — At the base of the Niesenhorn (9113'), ^jt hr. higher up,
is the unpretending Wildhorn Club Hut (about 7880'), from which the
Wildhorn (10,706') is ascended in 2'/2-3 hrs. (laborious and lit for experts
only: guide from Lenk 25, porter 18 fr.). The route ascends the moraine
of the Dungel Glacier, and the steep and toilsome E. slope of the Kirchli
(9157') to the top of the glacier, whence a gentle incline leads to the summit.
Splendid view of the Jura, the Schwarzwald, the TiJdi, Mte. Leone, Mte.
Rosa, Jit. Blanc, Site. Viso, and particularly of the Plaine Morte on the
Wildstrubel, and of the Diablerets. Descent, if preferred, to the S. by
the Glacier du Brozet to the HOtel Sanetsch at Zanjleuron {Vji-Z hrs. ;
see p. 233).
The "Rohrbachstein (9690'; 61/2 hrs., with guide) is a capital point
of view, free from difficulty. From the (4 hrs.) Rawyl Pass (p. 185)
we turn to the left and mount to the (iV2 l»r.) saddle between the Rohr-
bachstein and the Wetzsteinhorn, and to the summit in 1 hr. more. Fossils
found here.
The Wildstrubel (W. peak 10,670'; central peak 10,667'; E. peak
10,676') is best ascended from the Rawyl Pass. From the Iffigen Inn, where
the night is spent, to the Rawyl 2 hrs.; we then ascend to the left to the
height between the Weisshorn and the Rohrbachstein (2V2 hrs.) , cross
the Glacier de la Plaine Morte, and mount the slopes of a snow-arete to
the W. summit in 2'/2 hrs., and the central peak in '/2 hr. more (from
Iffigen 7'/2 hrs. in all). From the Riizliberg (see above) a steep path
ascends the FliOmdnde above the Siebenbrunnen to the (2 hrs.) lonely
Fluhseeli (6710'); thence over debris, moraine, and the Ruzli Glacier
to Sion. THE RAWYL. 55. Route. 185
to the W. peak (A hrs.). — A third route ftoilsome) ascends steeply from
the (2'/2 hrs.) Ritzberg Alp (p. 184; bed of hay) to the Lau/bodenhoi-n
(8878'); then close past the summit to the Thierherg Glacier, and past
the Gletscherhorn (9672') to the snow -slope of the Riizli Glacier to the
W. and the central peak (S hrs. from Ritzberg). Descent by the Ammerten
Glacier difficult. f>ver the Lcimmern Glacier to the Gemmi, see below.
From Lenk to Gsteig (7 hrs.) : over the Triiltlisberg (6713') to (4'/2 hrs.)
Lauenen (p. 233) , and thence over the Krinnen (.5463') to &I2 hrs.) Gsteig
(p. 233). Path bad at places (guide 10-12 fr.), see R. 66.
From Lenk to Saanen (p. 188) 6 hrs., path over the Revlissenherg or
Zwitzer Egg (5636'), and down the Turbachthal. — To Adelboden over the
JJahnenmoos , see p. 177. Over the Ammerten Pass (S032'), to the S.E. of
the Ammertengrat (8580'), interesting (7 hrs., with guide).
From Lenk to the Gemmi over the Lammernjoch (10,275') 10-11 hrs.,
toilsome. From the Siebenbrunnen the route leads past the Fluhseeli to
the Razli Glacier (p. 184), and to the left over the Wildstvubel Glacier
to the Joch, lying close below the W. peak of the Wildstrubel (p. 184;
ascended from the pass in V2 hr.). Descent over the crevassed Lamm,erii
Glacier to the Gemmi (p. 179). Or we may ascend from the Rawyl Pass
over the Glacier de la Plaine ilorte to the Joch, a longer route, but less
steep (p. 184).
The Rawyl Route (at first a carriage-road) gradually ascends
on the W. side of the valley to (IV4 M.) the left hank of the If-
figenbach and the pleasant Poschenr led- Thai. The road ends 2 M.
farther on. By the (5 min.) Iffigenfall (4483' at the hase) the
bridle-path ascends to the right. After 20 min. we turn , above
the fall, into a wooded valley, through which the Ifflgenbach
dashes over its narrow rocky bed, and traverse a level dale (with the
precipices of the Rawyl on the left) to the (1/2 hr.) Iffigenalp
(5253'; rustic Inn, dear). Here we turn sharply to the left (finger-
post), ascend through a small wood on a stony slope , skirt the face
of a cliff, cross (10 min.) a brook, and reach (50 min.) a stone hut
on a height overlooking the Simmenthal. We next skirt the W. side
of the small (8/4 hr.) Rawyl-See (7743') and reach (1/4 hr.) a cross (la
Grande Croix) which marks the boundary of Bern and Valais and the
summit of the Rawyl (7943'; 41/4 hrs. from Lenk), with a refuge-
hut adjacent. The pass consists of a desolate stony plateau (Plan
des RosesJ, enclosed by lofty and partially snow-clad mountains :
to the W. the long Mittaghorn (8842'); S.W., the Schneidehorn
(9640') and the snow -clad Wildhorn (10,706'; p. 184); S., the
hvoa.i Rawylhorn (9541') and the Wetzsteinhorn (9114'); E., the
Rohrbachstein (dQ90' ; p. 184); N.E., the extremities of the glaciers
of the Weisshorn (9882').
Beyond the pass the path is bad. It passes a second small
lake, and (8/4 hr.) reaches the margin of the S. slope, which affords
a limited, but striking view of the mountains of the Valais.
It descends a steep rocky slope (leaving the dirty chalets of Ar-
millon, 6926', to the left), and ('/.2 hr.) crosses a bridge in the
valley (5970' ; a good spring here). Instead of descending to the
left to the chalets of (i^hr.) Nieder- Rawyl (Ft. les Ravins. 5768'),
we ascend slightly by a narrow path to the right, and skirt the
hill-side. Then (25 min.) a steep ascent, to avoid the Kiindle (see
186 Route 56. AVEISSENBURG.
below); 20min., a cross on the top of tlie hill (6330'), ■whence we
again descend to ('/'i'T.) Praz Combeira (5344'), a group of huts;
and lastly a long, fatiguing descent by a rough, stony path, as-
cending at places, to (1 1/2 hr.) Ayent (3400'; 3^/4 hrs. froui the
pass ; Inn of the cure, good wine).
The footpath from Kieder-Rawyl to Ayent, shorter by I hr., leads by
the so-called 'Kandle' (i.e. channel), Fr. Sender du Bisse, along the edge
of a water-conduit skirting a steep slope 1300' in height. Being little more
than 1' in breadth, the path is only practicable for persons with steady heads.
The path, -which now improves, next leads by Orimisuat (2894';
Ger. Grimseln) and Champlan to (2 hrs.) Sion (p. 294; IO1/2 hrs.
from Lenk).
56. From Thun through the Simmenthal to Saanen.''
34V-2 M. Diligence twice daily (S a. m. and 12 noon) direct to Saanen
in 8V2 hrs. (fare 9 fr. 35, coup^ llfr. 55c.); another to Zweisimmen daily
at 4 p.m. in 5 hrs. 40 min. — One-horse carr. to Zweisimmen 28, two-
horse 50 fr., to Saanen 35 or 60, to Chateau d'Oex 40 or 70, to Aigle 80 or
150 fr.
The road skirts the Lake of Thun as far as (3 M.) Owatt(yich'Af\e ;
Post), where the Spiez road diverges to the left, and gradually
ascends towards the Niesen (p. 142). On a hill to the right rises the
slender tower of StrdttUgen (p. 141). At the bottom of the valley
flows the Kander , in an artificial channel. The road follows its
left bank, and then the left bank of the Simme, which falls into the
Kander near Reutigen, a prettily situated place.
6 M. Brothiisi (*IIirsch), with a picturesque old castle on the
hill-side. (To the E., 1 M., lies the substantial village of Wimmis,
p. 142.) The road passes through a defile (Porte) between the Sim-
menfluh and the Burgfluh into the Simmentlial (locally called the
Sicbenthat), a fertile valley with numerous villages.
8I/2 M. Latterbach (2303'; Biir). To the S. is the Diemtigthal.
Fkom Lattekbacii to Matten a shorter , but uninteresting route
(7 hrs.) leads through the Diemtigthal. At Latterbach it crosses the Simme
and follows the right banli of the Kirel (passing the village of Diemtigen
on the hill to the right) and then the left bank to Wampfen and (2V4 hrs.)
Tschnepis (3763') , where the valley divides into the Mdniggrund to the
right and the Schwendenthul to the left. We follow the latter, which
after 'A hr. again divides at Waritannen (3970'). The path now diverges
from the road, ascends to the W. through the Grimhaclithnl to the (2 hrs.)
Grimmi (6644'), a little-frequented pass, and descends through the fertile
FermcUhal to (2 hrs.) M((Uen (p. 183).
10 M. Erlenbacli(2320'; *Krone; *Lowe'), with well-built wood-
en houses.
The Stockhorn (7195') is sometimes ascended hence by experts in
4'/? hrs. ; better from Thun, by Ainsoldingen and Ober-Stocken (*Bar, rustic)
in 5V2hrs., or from Blitmenftein (p. 141) by the Wahlalp in 4 hrs.; descent,
if preferred, by the Wahlalp to Bad Weissen'huvg, which is reached by means
of ladders. Splendid flora and grand view.
141/2 M. Weissenburg (2418'; *miel Weissenbourg, R. & A.
21/2 fr-)) * group of neat]houses.
ZWEI81MMEN. 56. Route. 1 87
In a stepp gorge, so narrow at places as alm<ist to exclude the sun,
about l'/4 M. to the N.W., lies the favourite "Weissenburg-Bad, or
BunscM-Bad (2770'; a drive of 20 min., fur which 4 fr. are demanded).
The mineral water, impregnated with sulphate of lime (70"; at its
source 81°), and beneficial for bronchial affections, is used exclusively
for drinking. The Neue Bad, situated in a sheltered basin, consists of
two large houses (reading and billiard rooms ; post and telegraph office ;
pens. IOV2-I3 fr., D. 31/2, warm bath Vjz fr.) ; the Alte Bad, buried in
the ravine '/2 M. higher up, is inferior (pension 5-7 fr.). The baths, with
the extensive pine-forests round them, belong to Messrs. Hausev.
From Weissenburg to the Gurnigelbad (6 hrs.) Attractive path
through the Khix, passing the Morget enbachfnll, 200' high, and the Mov-
getenalp to the (S'/s hrs.) Biirglen- Battel (6434'J ; then down (passing Bad
Sclacefelberg, l'/4 M. to the left) to the Oantrist Pass (5217'), with a charm-
ing view, and over the Obere Gurnigel to the (I'/i hr.) Gurnigelbad (p. 141).
201/2 M.Boltigen (2726'; *H6t. Imohersteg,Bnr, both moderate),
a thriving village with handsome houses, is reached beyond the
Simmenegg, or Enge, a defile formed by two rocks between which
the road passes. Above the village rise the two peaks of the Mittag-
fluh (6198'). To the left peep the snow-fields to the E. of the Rawyl
(p. 185). The coal-mines in a side-valley near Reidenbach (2756';
3/4 M. from Boltigen) account for the sign of the inn (a miner).
From Reidenbach to Bdlle , 24 M. , a new road. A little above
Reidenbach it diverges to the right and ascends in numerous windings
(which footpaths cut oQ") to the (6 M.) pass of the Bruchberg (4941'). It
then descends gradually (preferable to the bad footpath) to (3 M.) Jaun,
Fr. Bellegarde (3336'; Hot. de la Cascade , poor), a pretty village with a
waterfall 86' high. (Path to the Sckicarzsee-Bad by Neuschels, 3 hrs., see
below.) [A cart-track to the S. ascends on the left bank of the Jaunbach
to (IV2 br.) Abldntscfien (4280'; Inn), at the foot of the bore rocky chain
of the Gastlose (6542'). Easy passes thence over the G'rubenberg (5413'), to
the S. of the Dent de Ruth (7674'), to (3 hrs.) !?aanen, and over the Schliindi.
to (2' 2 hrs.) Reich enstein (see below).] We next traverse the beautiful
pastures of the Jaunthal or Bellegarde Vallet/, which yield excellent
Gruyere cheese (p. 183), and the picturesque D^fiU de la Tzintre to
(7'/2 M.) Charmey, Ger. Galims (2957'; 'Tanne; Stern), a well-to-do village
and a summer resort, charmingly situated. Fine view from the church.
The road next passes Cr^sns , C'hdtel, and the ruin o( Montsalvens (ruTe.
flora), crosses the Jaun, and beyond Broc (Pens, de la Grue), the Sarine,
and leads through wood to La Tour-de-Treme (p. 235) and 0\'-i M.) Bvlle
(p. 235). — From Cre'sus (see above) a pleasant route leads by Cerniat and
the old monastery of Valsainfe , and over the Col de Ch^salettes (4659') to
the (31/2 hrs.) Schicavzsee-Bad (p. 201). On the Kalte Sense, 4 hrs. to the
N.E. of the Schwarzsee, are the sequestered but well-kept Baths of Sell we/el -
berg (4573'), with springs impregnated with lime, whence a bridle-path
crosses the Gantrist Pass (see above) to (2V2 brs.) Bad BHtmenstein (p. 141).
The road crosses the Simme at (2M.) Garstatt and turns suddenly
round the Laubeggstalden rock, passing a fine waterfall. We recross
the stream and pass the ruined castle of Mannenbera to (3 M.) —
251/2 M. Zweisimmen (3215' ; pop. 2222 4'Krone, R., L., & A.
33/4, B. 11/2, I^- 3 fr. ; *n6t. Simmenthal ; Bar), the chief village
in the valley, with an old church, situated in a broad basin on the
Kleine Simme. Pleasant views from the churchyard , and from
Sehloss Blankenburg , now containing public offices and a prison,
1/2 hr. to the S.E. (p. 183).
The road ascends gradually for 5 M., crossing the Schlundibach
188 Route 56. SAANEN.
at (3'/2 M.) Reichenstein. (To Abldntschen, see above.) In a pine-
clad valley on the left flows the Kleine Simme , and the road
crosses five or six deep lateral ravines. At the top of the hill
(4227'; Inn) begin the Saanen-Moser , a broad Alpine valley,
sprinkled with innumerable chalets and cottages. A striking view
is gradually disclosed of the frowning Riiblihorn (7570'), the baro-
meter of the surrounding country (comp. p. 94), the serrated Oum-
/Z«/i (8068'), the snow-fields oi the Sanetsch beyond it, and lastly
the huge Gelten Glacier (p. 233) to the left. Lower down we ob-
tain a fine survey of the Turbach , Lauenen , and Gsteig valleys
(p. 233).
341/2 M. Saanen, Fr. Gessenay (3382'; pop. 3730; Grand
Logis, or Gross-Landhaus, dear; Ours, plain), is the capital of the
upper valley of the Saane (Sarine). The inhabitants rear cattle and
manufacture the famous Gruyere and Vacherm cheese.
To Gsteig, and over the Col de Pillon to Aigle, see p. 233; over the
Sanetsch to Sion, see p. 233.
From Saanen to Chateau d'Oex (p. 237) 7 M. ; diligence twice daily
in ii/3 hr., by Rotigemont, or Rothenberg ("Pens. Cottier, prettily situated,
reasonable), the frontier between cantons Bern and Vand, where the
language changes from German to French, and Flendruz.
IV. WESTERN SWITZERLAND. LAKE OF GENEVA.
LOWER VALLEY OF THE RHONE.
57. From Bern to Neuchatel 190
Isle of St. Peter; Chasseral, 190. — Chaumont, 192.
58. From Neuchatel to Cliaux-de-Fonds and Locle . . . 193
Tete de Rang; Col des Loges, 193. — From Conver.s to
Bienne through the Val St. Imier, 193. — Cotes du Doub.s ;
Moulin de la Mort, 194. — From Locle to Morteau ; Col
des Roches; Lac des Brenets; Saut du Doubs, 194, 195.
59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through theValdeTravers 195
Creux du Van. Ravine of the Raisse, 196.
60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 197
Gorges de la Reuse, 197. — Chasseron, 198.
61. From Bern to Lausanne ('Fevej/J 199
From Flamatt to Laupen , 199. — From Freiburg to
Payerne and Yverdon. Schwar/.seebad; Berra , 201. —
From Romont to Bulle, 201. — Signal de Chexbres ; from
Chexbres to Vevey, 202.
62. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 202
From Morat to Neuchatel. From Aarberg to Bern, 204.
63. From Lausanne to Vallorhe and Pontarlier 204
From Romainmotier to Le Pont, 204. — Lac de Joux;
Dent de Vaulion. From Le Pont to Le Brassus, 205.
64. Geneva and Environs . 205
Bois de la Batie ; Ferney ; Saleve; Voirons, etc., 215.
65. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne andVilleneuve.
Lake of Geneva (North Bank) 216
Divonne ; the Dole, 218. — Signal de Bougy ; Gimel ;
Col de Marchairuz, 219. — From Lausanne to Echal-
lens, 222. — Hauteville and Bh)nay ; the Pleiades, 223.
— Excursions from Montreux : Glion ; Gorge du Chau-
deron; Rocher de Naye; Les Avants, etc., 226. — From
Aigle to Villars; Chamossaire ; Corbeyrier, 229. — From
Bex to Les Plans, 230. — Baths of Lavey; Morcles, 231. —
Pissevache ; Gorge du Trient, 231. — Arpille ; Pierre-a-
Voir, 232.
66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon .... 232
The Lauenenthal. From Gsteig to Sion over the Sanetsch,
233. — Excursions fromOrmont Dessus; Creux-de-Champ,
Palette, Oldenhorn, Diableret, etc., 234. — From Ormont
Dessus to Villars or Grycm over the Pas de la Croix,
234. — Pic de Chaussy ; Leysin, 234.
67. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 234
Ascent of the Mole'son from Bulle or Albeuve, 235. —
From Montbo von over the Jaman to Montreux or Vevey, 236.
68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 237
69. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret. Lake of
Geneva (South Bank). Val d'llliez 239
From Thonon to Samoens. Valley of the Drance, 239. —
The Blanchard. From St. Gingolph to Port-Valais and to
Vouvry, 240. — Grammont, 241. — Excursions from Cham-
pery: Culet; Dent du Midi ; Tour Sallieres; Dents Blan-
ches. FromChampery to Samoens, Sixt, or Vernayaz(Col3
de Coux, de la Golese", de Sagerou, de Clusanfe), 241, 242.
13
190
57. From Bern to Neuchatel.
41 M. Railway in 13/4-2V4 lirs. (fares 7 fr. 16, 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 80 c).
Bern see p. 133; from Bern to (21 M.) Bienne see p. 11.
(Miinsterthal Railway to Bale see R. 2; by St. Imier to Chaux-de-
Fonds see p. 193.) Near the beautiful avenues, to the S.W. of
Bienne, the train reaches the Lake of Bienne (1424'; 91/2 M. long,
2'/2 M- broad). As the train skirts the W. bank, we obtain a very
pleasing view of the lake, enhanced in clear weather by the magni-
ficent chain of the Bernese Alps. — Beyond (27'/2 M.) Douanne,
Ger, Ticann(*Bar), we pass a fall of the Twannbach. 29 M. Gleresse,
Gar. Ligerz.
To the left, in the lake, lies the Isle of St. Peter, clothed with
beautiful old oaks, vineyards, and fruit-trees, where Rousseau spent two
months in 17G5. (The so-called 'Schaffnerhaus'', in which his room is
shown, is now a good inn.) Boat from Twann or from Ligerz, there and
back, 4, from Neuveville 6 fr. A steamboat also plies from Neuveville
to Cerlier and the Isle of St. Peter. — The lake having been lowered by
the construction of an artificial channel for the lower Zihl, the island of
St. Peter is now connected on the S. side with the smaller Kaninchen-
Jnsel , and with the mainland near Cerlier (see below).
30 Y2 M. Neuveville, Ger. Neuenstadt (*Faucon; Trois Poissons),
a pleasant little town (2357 inh.), the last in Canton Bern, is
the first place where French is spoken. The Museum, near the
station (adm. 50c.), and the house of Dr. Gross contain interesting
antiquities from the lake-dwellings and the Burgundian wars. On the
iSc/iio?s6ery(1752'), 20min. from the station, stands a ruined castle of
the Bishops of Bale (fine view from the top and on the way up),
near which the Beon forms a waterfall (often dry in summer).
To the N. of Neuveville rises the (4 hrs.) *Chasseral (5280'; Chalet-
Hdtel du Chasseral, with 20 beds, at the top, fair), or Gesiler, in three
terraces, studded on the S. side with numerous villages amid green
meadows. The view, grander than from the Weissenstein (p. 15), embraces
W. Switzerland, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and the Alps. — The ascent
may be made from Bienne (p. 11) in 5-6 hrs.; from St. Imier in 2V2-3 hrs. ;
(see p. 193).
The old town of Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours), lies opposite Neuveville, at
the N. foot of the wooded Jolimont (1980'; V* ^r.), a charming point of
view. The 'Teufelsbiirde' is a group of large erratic blocks on the sum-
mit. — Near Cerlier on the E. bank of the lake, at Liischerz, and at
MSrigen, farther N., numerous remains of ancient lake-dwellings have been
discovered.
Near (33 M.) Landeron we quit the Lake of Bienne; the little
town lies on the left; farther E. rises the Jolimont (see above).
341/2 M. Cressier, with its church on a lofty rock; 351/2 M. Cornaux.
Beyond a tunnel the train reaches (38 M.) St. Blaise, skirts the
slope of the mountain, and beyond another tunnel affords a survey
of the Lake of Neuchitel (1427'), which it soon reaches. The
lake, the Roman Lacus Eburodunensis , the level of which has
lately been lowered 6' by the enlargement of its outlet, is 25 M.
long and 4-6 M. broad (greatest depth 500'). Near the N.E. end
the Thiile or Zihl emerges from the lake. The smiling, vine-
clad W. bank , above which rise the abrupt Jura Mts., affords an
NEUCHATEL. 57. Route. 191
extensive view , from the Bernese Alps to Mont Blanc ; but the
lake itself is far inferior in beauty to those of the higher Alps.
41 M. Neuch&tel. — Railway Station on the hillside above the
town, 1 M. from the lake. Persons bound for the museum or other points
in the N. part of the town may descend the path and steps to the left,
but the main road leads to the hotels on the lake. — Steamboat on the
Lake of Neuchatel, see pp. 197, 204.
Hotels. 'Bellevhe, in an open situation on the lake, R., L., & A. 4-5,
D. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; Gkand Hot. dd Lac , near the lake, R., L., & A.
from 3V2, D- 3'/2, omnibus ^/t fr. — Second-class : Hot. des Alpes, at the
station, mediocre; Faocon, R. 2-3, D. 2V2 fr. ; "Hot. dd SoLtiL and
"Hot. dd Commerce, near the post-office, commercial; Coukonne; Hot.
DD Port. — Pens. Borel (Villa Surville) , well situated above the town,
pens. 4-6 fr., R. extra; Pension Knort, with fine view, pens. & R. 5 fr.
Cafes. Beer at the Tonlialie, at the upper end of the Rue du Seyon,
and the Brasserie Strauss, next the Hotel du Lac. Cercle dti Musie, in
the Palais Dupeyrou (p. 192; a club to which strangers are admitted).
Several other cafes at the harbour. — Rail. Restaurant, D. 2V2 fr.
Neuchdtel (1433'; 16,190 inh.j, Ger. Neuenburg, the capital of
the canton of that name (formerly a principality of the Orange
family, under Prussian sway from 1707 to 1815, when it joined the
Confederation, and finally given up by Prussia in 1857), is charm-
ingly situated on the Lake of Neuchatel, at the base and on the
slopes of the Jura. The modern part of the town, with its handsome
houses, grounds, and *Quay a mile long, lies on the lake, occupying
a strip of land partly formed by the deposits brought down by the
Seyon from the Chasseral. It commands a fine view of the Alps
from Pilatus to Mont Blanc. In 1839, in order to gain building
room, the Seyon was carried into the lake above the town by means
of the Tunnel de la Trouee du Seyon, 176 yds. long.
The Ca-i.TEAU, on the hill above the town, the oldest part of
which, dating from the Burgundian period, was restored in 1866,
is now the seat of the cantonal government. Near it is the *Temple
Dv Haut [Collegiale; key at 6 Rue du Chateau), an abbey-church
of the 12th century. The choir contains a handsome Gothic monu-
ment with 15 life-size figures, erected in 1372 by Count Louis of
Neuchatel, and restored in 1840. There are also memorial-stones
to the Prussian governor General v. Zastrow (d. 1836), and the
reformer Farel (d. 1565). — The Place in front of the church is
adorned with a Statue of Farel, erected in 1875. The terrace on
the N.E. side of the church affords a fine survey of the lake and
the Bernese Alps. The cloisters on the W. side, rebuilt after a fire
in 1450, were restored in 1860-70.
The College, on the lake , contains a valuable natural history
collection, founded by Agassiz (p. 174) andCoulon, a public library
(100,000 vols), antiquities from lake-dwellings , etc. (open Sun.
and Thurs. 2-4). A little to the S. rises a bronze statue, erected
in 1855, of David de Purry (d. 1786), a native of Neuchatel, who
bequeathed 41/2 million francs to the town. The Halles, a pictur-
esque Renaissance edifice of 1590, stand in the neighbouring Place
des Halles.
192 Route 57. NEUCHATEL.
On the lake, farther to the N., beyond the College Municipal, is
the new *Mu8ke dks Bbaux-Arts, a handsome Renaissan(;e build-
ing, containing an interesting Collection of Antiquities on the
groundfloor, and the municipal Picture Gallery, a collection chiefly
of modern Swiss works, on the first floor (adm. to each collection
50 c, free on Sun. 1-4 and Thurs. 10-12).
Two rooms at the entrance contain portraits of Prussian Kings from
Frederick I. to Frederick William I,V., and numerous other reminiscences
of the period of Prussian rule. The finest works in the next rooms
are: Anker: Sunday afternoon; ''Retreat of the French army under
Bourliaki, in Feb. 1871 ; A. H. Bevthoud, The Junglrau, Euin of Weis-
senau; L. Bevthoud, Crossing the Tiber, The Frohnalp ; F. Berthoud,
Young Savoyard; Calaiiie, Roscnlaui Glacier, *Monte Rosa; Coripel, Rinaldo
and Armida; Buntze, Alpine scene in winter; K. Girardet, 'Huguenot
assembly surprised by Kom. Cath. soldiers, Cromwell reproached by his
daughter Mrs. Claypole fur the condemnation of Charles I., Old Franciscan
monastery at Alexandria, Landscape in the Val de Travers; E. Girardet,
A father's blessing. The confession; /. Girardet, Retreat of Bourbaki;
Gleyre , Hercules and Omphale; Grosclaudc, The Doge Marino Falieri,
'Vive le vin de 1834' ; Isabey, Sea-piece ; Jacqtiand, Arrest of Rousseau in
1762; Jeanmaire , Fir-trees and cattle; A. de Meuron, Piazza in Capri,
The Bernina Pass, Pasture near Iseltwald , Interior of St. Mark's at Ve-
nice; M. de Meuron, View of Rome with the Baths of Caracalla, Modern
Rome, The Walensee, The Linththal near Nafels, The great oak, Italian
shepherd. Fir-trees and cattle; Morifz , Henry II. of Longueville in the
chateau of Culombier; L. Robert, 'Basilica of S. Paolo Fuori le Mura near
Rome after the lire of 1823, Roman oxen, 'Fishermen of the Adriatic,
Improvisatore (unfinished); Robert Fleury , Scene at the Massacre of St.
Bartholomew; Cli. Tschaggeny, Flemish bridal procession of the 17th cent.;
E. Tschaggeny, Mother and child pursued by a bull ; C. Vernet, Bivouac of
Cossacks. — Also a number of casts, water-colours, drawings, and engra-
vings. In a room by themselves are works by Leopold Robert, copied in
various styles by his brother Aurele.
Next the museum is an interesting ^Sepulcre Prehistorique' ,
discovered among the lake - dwellings at Auvernier in 1876.
A little to the N. is the new Academy. — Near the museum, 1/4 M.
from the lake, is the Palais Rouyemont or Dupeyrou, with a pleasant
garden. On the ground-floor is the Cercle du Musee (p. 191). At
the back is a building containing the Musee Challande, a collection
of stuffed Alpine animals (1 fr.).
The Observatory , erected for the benefit of the watch-manu-
facturers, is in telegraphic communication with Chaux-de-Fonds and
Locle fp. 194). The adjoining Mail, a grass-plot planted with
trees, commands a charming view of the lake and the Alps.
Neuchatel is noted for its charitable institutions, such as tlie
Municipal Hospital , founded by David de Purry (p. 191) , the
Pourtales Hospital , near the Bern gate , and the Prefargier Lunatic
Asylum, 3 M. from Neuchatel, erected by M. de Meuron in 1844.
The -Chaumont (3845'; 'Hotel de C/iavmont, a large house near the top,
3700', pens. 6-9 fr. ; IlOtel du Chateau, lower down, 3 min. to the S.E. ;
Eng. Church Service in summer), a spur of the Jura, rising to the N., is
the finest point of view near Neuchatel. The road to it diverges from the
Chaux-de-Fonds road, l'/4 M. from Neuchatel, and leads to the top in IV2 hr.
(diligence twice a day in summer, up 2, down I'/z fr. ; carr. with one
horse 10, with two horses 20 fr.). Near the hotels at the top are a chapel
and a schoolhouse. The view from the Signal, 15 min. above the hotels
LES HAUTS-GENEVEYS. 58. Route. 193
(indicator of the Swiss Alpine Club at the top by Imfeld) embraces the
lakes of Neuchatel and Jlorat , and the Alpine chain from the Sentis to
Mont Blanc in the background. The afternoon light is best, but a perfectly
clear horizon is rare. A charming view of the Val de Ruz and the Jura,
to the W., is obtained from the (1/4 hr.) Pri Louisei. — An attractive route,
following the mountain-ridge the whole way , via La Dame and Chuff art
(guide advisable), leads in 4 hrs. from the Chaumont to the Chasseral (p.
190). — Nearer the town there are pleasant wood-walks: to the Roche de
VErmilage, Pierre ti Sot, Gorges du Seyon, Chanilaz (p. 197), etc. — -Gorges
de la Reuse, see p. 197; ~2'<^(e de Rang, see below. — Numerous Celtic
remains have been found at La Tine, near Marin (Pens. Jfussle', moderate),
not far from St. Blaise (p. 190).
58. From Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds and Locle.
Railwat (Jura, Bern, d- Lucerne) from Neuchatel via Chaux-de-Fonds
to (23'/2 M.) Locle in 2i/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 10, 3 fr. 15 c). This
route, as far as Les Hauts-Geneveys, is very attractive; views to the left.
Neuchdtel, p. 191. The train skirts the slopes behind the town
and the castle, at first running parallel to the Lausanne line, crosses
the Seyon, and beyond a tunnel of 748 yds. affords a superb *View
of the lake and the Alps , which improves as we ascend (Bernese
Alps to theE.; Mont Blanc to the S.). 3 M. CorceUes (1880').
Two tunnels.
7 M. Chambrelien , beautifully situated almost perpendicularly
above the valley of the Reuse (p. 195). Fine view near the Buffet.
The train backs out from the station towards the N.E. and skirts a
wooded chain of hills. To the right is the fertile Fai de Ruz, watered
by the Seyon, with its numerous villages , above which rises the
Chaumont (p. 192).
101/2 M. Les Oeneveys-sur-Coffrane (2870'). Then (I21/2 M.)
Les Hauts-Geneveys (3135'), the highest point of view on the
line, where Mont Blanc becomes very conspicuous.
The "Tete de Rang (46G8'; Inn), ascended in IV4 hr. from Hauts-
Geneveys (by a lane to the left, 10 min. beyond the village) , commands
a magnificent and extensive view of the Jura westwards to the plateau of
Langres, of the Vosges , and of the Alps from the Sentis to Mont Blanc
and the mountains of Geneva. — A path leads hence along the hill to
the Col des Loges (4220'; 'Hotel a la Viie des Alpes), on the road from
Neuchatel to Chaux-de-Fonds. View similar, but less extensive. Descent
either to (I'/i M.) Hauts-Geneveys or to (3 M.) Chaux-de-Fonds.
The train passes through a tunnel, 2 M. long (7min.), under the
Col des Loges to (16 M.) Les Convers, a solitary station in a rock-
girt valley, 1 M. from the village of that name.
From Convers to Bienne, 30 M., railway in I1/2 hr. (4 fr. 80, 3 fr.
40, 2 fr. 40 c). The line traverses the industrious Val St. Imier, watered
by the Suze or Schenss, and passes the village of Les Convers. 7 M. Renan;
9'/2 M. Sonvilier, with the picturesque ruins of the castle of Erguel on a
pine-clad rock. 11 M. St. Imier (2670'; 7114 inh. ; Cowonne; ffdt. de Ville;
'Hot. des Treize Cantons), capital of the valley, with considerable watch-
manufactories. (Ascent of the C/iasscral, p. 190, by a bridlepath, 2V2-3 hrs).
— 12'/2 M. Villeret; 15 M. Coiirtclary - Cormoret ; 17 M. Cortebert; 19 M.
Corgimont. 20 M. Sonceboz, and thence to (30 M.) Bienne, see p. 11.
Beyond a tunnel, 3/4 M. long (3 min.), under Mont Sagne , and
a .shorter one, we reach — -
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 13
104 Route 58. LK LOCLE.
I81/2M. LaChaux-de-Fonds(3255'; 25,569 inli.; *FleurdeLys,
B. & A. 3, B. IV4 fr. ; *Lion d'Or~), an important watch-making
town, lying in a remote Alpine valley, nearly as high as the top of
Snowdon, with handsome streets and public buildings. If time per-
mit, the traveller may visit the Church with its skilfully vaulted
roof, and the College, containing the municipal picture-gallery (good
pictures by Swiss masters), the library, etc. The town which for-
merly suffered from scarcity of water, is now supplied with excellent
water from the valley of the Reuse (near Champ du Moulin, p. 195),
by means of an Aqueduct, 13 M. long, built in 1886-7 by W. Ritter
and Hans Mathys.
From Chaux-de-Fonds to the pictaresque 'Cotes du Doubs, a pleasant
excursion. The road leads past the 'Restaurant Bel-Air to a Restaurant and
Hotel , near the Combe de la Greffiire (view of the Doubs helow) , then
descends through wood (short-cuts for walkers) towards the Doubs at
(51/4 M.) the charmingly-situated Maison Monsieur, and skirts its bank
past the "Pavilion des Sonneurs (Restaurant) to (2'/4 BI.) the prettily situated
Bia/ufond. Then by boat to (V2 hr.) Le Refrain, and on foot through grand
and wild scenery to the (2'/4 M.) picturesque Mouliti de la Alort (refreshm.).
Opposite are the curious Eclielles de la Mort, used by the inhabitants. Here,
and for several leagues farther N., the Doubs, whose lower course is
also attractive, forms the boundary between France and Switzerland.
Visitors may take a boat to (50min.) the Verri^res du Bief d'Etoz, then below
the Fall of the Doubs continue either by boat or on foot along the French
bank past (right) La Goule to (^4 hr.) Bief d''L't(>z. Thence we proceed on
the Swiss bank to the (^4 hr.) mill of Theusseret , ascend to the right to
Belfond, and again descend to (1 hr.) Ooumois ("Couronne, good trout), a
village charmingly situated on both banks of the river. A picturesque
road ascends hence to the E. in wide curves to (3 M.) SeigneUgier (Cheval
Blanc), whence a diligence runs several times daily to Tavannes and Glo-
velier (p. 10).
A pleasant road leads to the W. of La Chaux-de-Fonds to (ii/4 hr.) Les
Planchettes (Restaurant) and the (iV2 hr.) Saut du Doubs (p. 195).
The railway bends suddenly to the S.W. — 21 M. Eplatures.
231/2 M. Le Locle (3020'; 11,222 inh. ; *H6t. des Trois Roix;
Hot. du Jura; Hot. National^ famed for its watches and jewellery.
(Chronometers at Ulysse Nardin's.) In front of the Watchmakers'
School a bronze statue was erected in 1888 to D.J. Kie/iard(d. 1741),
founder of the watch-making industry in Le Locle and La Chaux-
de-Fonds. The top of the Sommartel (4350'), 3 M. to the S., affords
a wide view of a great part of the Jura.
From Locle to Mokteau (Besancon), 8 M., railway in 35 minutes.
This new line facilitates the excursion to the Saut du Doubs (p. 195),
and the road from the Col des Roches to the river is also very interest-
ing. — I'/i M. Col-des-Roches (Hotel Fe'd6ral), the station for Les Brenets
(p. 195) To the right, the Col with its tunnel (see below); the line
passes through another tunnel, then through a second, and descends into
the valley of the Doubs, afl'ording picturesque views to the right. — 4 M.
Villers-le-Lac, a French locality of 3053 inh., 1 M. to the S.E. of the Lac
des Brenets. The line skirts the right bank of the Doubs, and then traverses
the river. 8 M. Morleau, a little town of 2042 inh., pleasantly situated
on the left bank (customhouse examination for travellers coming from
Locle). Hence to Besangon 40 M. (see Baedeker^s Northern France).
CoL DE3 Roches. Lac des Brenets. Saut du Doubs. From the
station of Col-des-Roches a road leads to (2 M.) Les Brenets. It passes
through the Col des Roches, a barrier of rocks which here closes the valley,
AUVERNIEK. 50. Route. 195
by means of a funnel begun in 1799, renewed and enlarged after a landslip
in 1870, and then divides: to the left to Morteau , to the right to I-es
Prenets. The latter branch leads through a rock-gallery, aft'ording a fine
view of the upper valley of the Doubs. Lower down , the Bied issues
from a tunnel, forming a waterfall. About l>/2 M. from the Col we reach
a second gallery, beyond which we descend to the (V4 M.) large watch-
making village of Les Brenett ('Couronne; 'Lion d'Or), and ('/4 JI.) the
Pri du Lac, on the *Lac des Brenets, a lake 3 M. in length, which the
Doubs forms above the waterfall. A boat (3 fr., there and back) or
the small steamboat which plies on Sundays (for large parties also on
week-days) now conveys us down the dark-green lake, gradually narrowing
between precipitous wooded rocks, and presenting a series of very pictur-
esque scenes. In 35 min. we reach the *Saut du Doubs (Hot. du Satit du
Doubs, with garden, on the Swiss side; Hot. de la Chute, on the French
side, both unpretending) , a picturesque waterfall 80' high , of which we
obtain a line view from a point high above it (6 min. from the French
inn). Thence to the foot of the fall, 5 min. more. The fall is hardly to
be seen from the Swiss side, where the approach is dangerous. A new
road through beautiful woods, affording cliarming glimpses of the basin
of the Doubs, leads back to (3 M.) Les Brenets and (4'/2 M.) Le Lode.
59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier through the Val
de Travers.
33 M. Railway in 13/4-23/4 brs.; fares 6 fr. 10, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 55 c. (From
Pontarlier to Paris by Dijon, express in IOV2 hrs.; from Bern to Paris
14V4 hrs.). This Jura Railway (comp. p. 193) also traverses a most pictur-
esque country. The most striking points are between Neuchatel and Noi-
raigue, between Boveresse and the last tunnel above St. Sulpice, and be-
tween St. Pierre de la Cluse and Pontarlier. Finest views to the left.
Neuchatel, see p. 191. The line, running parallel with that to
Yverdon (p. 197) as far as Auvernier, crosses the Seyon. Beyond a
fhort tunnel under the Val de Travers road we enjoy a beautiful
*View of the lake and the Alps (comp. p. 193). The train skirts
lofty vine-clad slopes, and crosses the Oorge of Serrieres by a bold
viaduct. In the valley is Suchard's large chocolate factory , and
above it rises the small chateau of Beauregard.
4 M. Auvernier; the little town lies below, to the left (1480';
Hotel du Lac, moderate). The train diverges to the right from the
Yverdon line (p. 197), and as it ascends we enjoy an admirable
view of the lake and the Alps. On entering the rocky and wooded
ravine of the Reuse or Areuse we observe the lofty viaduct of the
Lausanne line (p. 197) far below us to the left. The last glimpse
of the lake down this romantic valley is particularly picturesque. We
soon enter a tunnel, high on the N. slope of the valley, almost under
the station of Chambrelien (p. 193). Three more tunnels, before
the second of which is the station of Champ du Moulin (2020' ; Hot.
de la Truite, trout) in a picturesque situation (hence to the Gorges
de la Reuse, see p. 197). Artificial conduits supply Neuchatel and
Chaux-de-Fonds (p. 194) with spring water from this point; the
engine-house (2067'), 1/4 hr. up the Reuse to the left, is interest-
ing. A neighbouring house (now a cafe') was, according to the in-
scription, once occupied for some time by J. J. Rousseau.
13*
19G Route 59. FLEURIER.
12 M. Noiraigue (2360'; *Croix Blanche), at the N. base of the
Creux du Van. The valley, called the Val de Travers from this
point to St. Sulpice, suddenly changes its character here, and the
Reuse now flows calmly through a grassy dale.
From Noiraigue a steep path ascends the Creux du Van (4807') in
2hrs., a better route than from Boudrtj (p. 197) or ,St. Aiibin fp. 197), as the
striking view, extending from Pilatus to Mont Blanc, is suddenly revealed.
At the top is a basin, 500' deep, sliaped like a horse-shoe, and nearly 3 M.
in circumference. When the weather is about to change , this 'hollow of
the wind' is filled with surging white vapour, which rises and falls like
the steam in a boiling cauldron , but does not quit the basin. The phe-
nomenon seldom lasts above an hour. A gun-shot produces a rattling echo,
resembling a volley of musketry. Beautiful view of the Alps from Pilatus
to Mont Blanc. Bare plants and minerals are found here.
Beyond (I41/2 M.) Travers (2392'; Ours) are asphalt-mines on
the opposite side of the valley with a tunnel. (From Travers a
hranch line runs in the bottom of the valley via Couvet, Motiers,
and Fleurier, to Buttes and St. Sulpice, see below.) — 17 M. Couvet
(2418'; *Bellevue), a pretty town. Here, and at Motiers and Fleurier,
excellent absinthe is manufactured.
The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Opposite, far
below, lies Motiers^-Travers ; 2415'; Maison de Ville) , where, by
permission of the Prussian governor Lord Keith, Rousseau spent
some time after his expulsion from Yverdon by the government of
Bern, and wrote his 'Lettres ecrites de la Montague'.
The *Ravine of the Raisse (affluent of the Reuse), with its picturesque
rocks and waterfalls, deserves a visit. About '/z^I- from Motiers we pass
a bridge and follow the brook to the right, ascending a pretty wooded gorge.
In 1 hr. we reach a new path, leading to the top (35 min.). From this
point, with the aid of a guide or a good map, we may ascend the
Chasseron (p. 198). — Behind Motiers is the Grotte de Motiers, a limestone
cavern, one arm of which is 3'/2 M. long. It may be safely explored for
about '/jM. (rough walking; swarms of bats). At the entrance is a waterfall.
19 M. Boveresse, above the village of the name. In the valley, far-
ther on, is Fleurier (2455'; *Couronne; Post), with extensive watch
factories. Hence to the top of the Chasseron in 2'/2 hrs., see p. 198.
Beyond a long tunnel , we observe St. Sulpice (2557') below us, on
the left. Scenery again very picturesque. Two bridges and two tun-
nels. In the valley, IV2 M. to the W. of Fleurier, the Reuse, which
probably flows under ground from the Lac des Tailleres , rises in
the form of a considerable stream, soon capable of working a number
of mills. Road and railway pass through the defile of La Chaine.
The line attains its highest point, and then enters a monotonous
green valley with beds of peat. At (25 M.) Les Verrieres Suisses
(3060'; ^Balance), the last Swiss village, the French 'Army of the East'
under Bourbaki crossed the frontier in Feb. 1871. The train enters
France before reaching (26 M.) Les Verrieres de Joux, or Verrieres
FranQaises (3015'). Near St. Pierre de La Cluse the scenery again
becomes interesting. The defile of La Cluse, which railway and
road both traverse, is fortified; on tlie left rises the ancient Fort
de Joux, which was blown up with dynamite in 1877, overtopped
BOUDRY. GO. Route. 197
by a new fort on a bold rock to tlie right. Mirabeau was impris-
oned here in 1775 at the instance of his father; and in 1803 Tous-
saint Louverture , the negro chieftain of St. Domingo, died in the
fort, where he had been confined by Napoleon.
We cross the Doubs, which drains the Lac de St. Point, 3'/.2 M.
to the S.W., and follow its left bank to Pontarlier. Pretty scenery.
33 M. Pontarlier (2854'; 4675 inhab.; Hotel de la Poste, Grande
Rue, R. '2 fr. ; Hot. de Paris; Hotel National; *Rail. Restaur., D. incl.
wine 3-4 fr.), a small town on the Doubs. Luggage examined here.
Opposite the station are the College and the Telegraph Office. To
the right as the station is entered, is the large Hospital, with a turret.
From Pontarlier to Cossonay and Vallorbe, see R. 63.
60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne.
46'/-.' H. Railway in 2-2V2 hrs.; fares 8fr., 5fr. 80, 4fr. 20c. (to Geneva
in 2V4-5lirs.; fares 13 fr. 10, 9fr. 40, 6fr. 80c.). — Steamboat on the Lake
of Neuchatel between Neuchatel and Moral (p. 204), and between Neuchatel
and Estavayer only (twice daily in IV2 hr. , corresponding with the train
to Freiburg, p. 201).
Neuchatel, see p. 191. Route to (AM.) Auvernier, see p. 195.
The Lausanne train , diverging from the Pontarlier line, quits the
lake, to which it returns beyond Bevaix (see below). 5 M. Colombier
(Maison de Ville), with an old chateau converted into a barrack, and
beautiful avenues, yields excellent white wine. (On the lake, I'/o^I-
to the E., is the Chanelaz Hydropathic, with pleasure-grounds and
charming views; pens. 6-8 fr.) — 6 M. Boudry (1693'); the little
town (1542'; Maison de Ville), the birthplace of Marat, lies below
the line, on the right bank of the Reuse, 1 M. from the station.
The 'Gorges de la Keuse are interesting. Leaving stat. Boudry, we cross
the line (passing the viaduct on the left) and pass through the village of Trois-
rods. Before the last house we turn to the left, between vyalls, and descend
in 20 min. to the entrance to the ravine. A path, hewn in the rock at
places, affords striking views of the narrow, wooded gorge, above which
the rocks and trees frequently meet. In 5 min. we come to a path to the
left, leading to the Chalet aux CUes (donation for the use of the path
expected). In 20 min. more we observe the Grotte aux Fours, above us,
on the right, with a large entrance (easily accessible). Farther on, the
Pontarlier railway runs above the gorge, on the right, and still higher is
the carriage-road. We next reach (55 min.; 1 hr. 40 min. from Boudry
station) the Champ da Moulin, picturesquely situated (station for several
trains, p. 195). — Perhaps a more convenient way of making this excursion
is to take the train to Champ du Moulin and then to walk down through
the Gorges to Boudry. Another path descends to the Gorges from Chambre-
lien (p. 193). Noiraigue (p. 196) is 3 M. distant.
From Boudry to the Creitx du Van (p. 196), 3 hrs.
Beyond Boudry the train is carried by a great viaduct over the
deep valley of the Reuse. The stream falls into the lake near Cor-
taillod, where the best red wine in the canton is produced. 9 M.
Bevaix (1568'). The line returns to the bank of the lake, which it
follows to Yverdon. 11 M. Oorgier-St. Aubin; 14 M. Vaumarcus,
with the fine well-preserved castle of that name. At (16 M.) Con-
cise (1453'; Ecu de France^ many traces of ancient lake-villages
198 Botiteeo. YVERDON.
have been found. To the right, above, lies Corcelles, near which
are three blocks of granite, 5' to 8' in height, placed in the form of
a triangle, but not visible from the line. They are said to comme-
morate the battle of Grandson, but are more probably of Celtic origin.
18 M. Onnens-BonviUars.
21 M. Grandson ('Lion d'Or; Croix Rouge; Hotel de la Gare),
a picturesque little town (1709 inh.) probably of Roman origin, has
a handsome old Chateau of Baron de Blonay , now restored. (*View
from the terrace.) The old Church, Romanesque with a Gothic
choir, which once belonged to a Benedictine abbey, contains columns
with interesting capitals.
The chateau of Grandson, originally the seat of a family of that name
and said to have heen built about the year 1000, was taken by the Bern-
ese in 1475, and in Feb. 1476 captured by Charles the Bold, Duke of
Burgundy, who, contrary to the treaty, caused the Bernese garrison to be
hanged or drowned. A few weeks later, on 3rd March , 1476, the Duke
was surprised by the advancing Confederates near Grandson, and notwith-
standing his numerical superiority (50,000 Burgundians, it is said, against
20,000 Swiss) was utterly defeated. Part of the enormous booty captured
on the occasion is still preserved in the Swiss arsenals.
The train skirts the S.W. end of the lake, and crosses the Thiele
or Toile near its influx into the lake.
24 M. Yverdon (1433'; 6248 inh. ; *Hdt. de Londres, R. & A.
21/2) D- 3 fr. ; Paon), the Roman Eburodunum, is a thriving little
town on the Toile , with pleasant promenades and fine views. The
Chdteau, erected by Duke Conrad of Zahringen in 1135, and the
seat of Pestalozzi's famous school in 1805-25, is now occupied by
the town-schools , a library , and a museum of Celtic, Roman , and
other antiquities. Near the churchyard are some mural fragments
of a Roman fort. To the S.E. (3/4 M.} are the Bains d'Yverdon,
with a sulphur spring and a Kurhaus (pens. 7 fr.), halfway to
which are the Pension La Prairie and the Pension Le Bosquet, both
with gardens.
The Chasseron (5285') , a height of the Jura, N.W. of Yverdon, com-
mands a tine view. Diligence twice daily in 31/4 hrs. to Sle. Croix (3635';
Pens. Jacques; IV2-2 hrs. from the top), noted for its musical boxes. The
descent may be made , if desired , by a good road to (I'/z br.) Fleurier
(p. 196). — The Aiguille de Beaulmes (5128') and Monl Suchet (5236') are
also fine points (3'/2-4 hrs.; comp. p. 204).
From Yverdon to Pay erne and Freiburg, see p. 201.
The train quits the lake, and enters the broad valley of the Toile,
a stream formed by the confluence of the Orhe (p. 204) and the Ta-
lent near stat. Ependes. To the W. rises the long chain of the Jura :
the Aiguille de Beaulmes and Mont Suchet (see above) , between
which in the distance are the Mont d'Or, the Dent de Vaulion
(p. 205), and Mont Tendre. 30 M. Chavornay-Orbe (the small town
of Orbe lies I1/2 M. to the N.W. ; omnibus at the station; p. 204).
Two tunnels under the Mauremont. Then (331/2 M.) Eclepens
(p. 204). The train enters the wooded valley of the Venoge, which
is connected with the Toile by the Canal d' Entreroches , passes La
Sarraz (p. 204), and stops at —
FREIBURG. 01. Route. 199
38 M. Peuthalaz-Cossonay (1850'; Hot. des Orands Moulins);
the little town of Cossonay lies on a wooded hill to the right. —
To Vallorbe and Pontarlier, see R. 63.
Beyond (ASM.) Bussigny, to the S., appear the mountains of
Savoy. 441/.2 M. Renens.
46y2 M. Lausanne, see p. 220.
61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey).
61 M. Railway to Freiburg in 1-1 V4 hr. (3 fr. 75, 2fr. 70 c., 2 fr.); to
Che.xbres in 3-31/2 hrs. (9fr. 70, 7 fr., 5fr. 20c.1; to Lausanne in 3i/4-4 hrs.
(10 fr. 90, 7fr. 85, 5fr. 80c.)-, to Geneva in 5V2-6V2 hrs. (17 fr. 30, 12 fr. 35c.,
9fr.). — Travellers to Vevey had better alight at Che.xbres (comp. p. 202).
We choose seats on the left, bearing in mind, however, that the train,
after leaving the Bern station, reverses its direction and runs towards the W.
Bern, see p. 133. To the left we obtain a glimpse of the Bernese
Alps, and the mountains of the Simme and Sarine valleys, among
which the serrated Brenleire (7743') and Folierant (7690') are con-
spicuous ; more to the right is the Moleson ; to the left, in front of
the high Alps, is the pyramidal Niesen. This view is soon hidden
by wood. 3 M. Bilmplitz; 6 M. Thorishaus, The train descends and
crosses the Sense , the boundary between the cantons of Bern and
Freiburg. 9 M. Flamatt.
To the W. (572 M.; diligence daily in 1 hr., via Netienegg) lies Laupen
(Bar), a small town with an ancient chateau, at the confluence of the Sense
and the Sarine , famed in the annals of Switzerland for a victory gained
in 1339 by the Bernese under Rudolph von EHaeh (p. 135) over the army of
Freiburg and the allied nobility of the Uechtland, Aargau, Savoy, and Bur-
gundy. The anniversary is kept every five years. The battlefield on the
Bramberg , '/2 M. to the N. of the road to Neuenegg, is marked by a
monument, erected in 1829.
Beyond the next tunnel we enter the green valley of the
Taferna-Bach. 12y.2 M. Schmitten; 16 M. Diidingen (Fr. Gwm),
where we cross a viaduct, 100' high. Beyond BalUswyl, which lies
to the left, the train crosses the profound gorge of the <Saane or
Sarine by means of the huge iron Viaduc de Granfey, 250' in height,
and nearly 1/4 M. long.
20 M. Freiburg. — *Grand-Hot. de Fribourg etZaehringen, well-
situated near the station, R., L., & A. from S'/z, lunch 3-4, D. 5 fr. — Rail.
Restaurant, with a few rooms.
Freiburg (2100'; pop. 12,158), Fr. Fribourg, the capital of
Canton Freiburg, the ancient Uechtland, founded in li78 by
Berthold IV. of Zahringen, stands like Bern on a rooky height nearly
surrounded by the Sarine (Saane). Most of the inhabitants speak
French. The town lies on the boundary between the two tongues,
and German is still spoken in the lower quarters.
As the picturesque situation of the town and its bridges is not seen from
the railway-station, the following walk of 11/2 hr. is recommended. From
the station past the little Protestant church and through the town to the
Hotel de Ville and the church of St. Nicholas; then, to the left, cross the
Great Suspension Bridge (p. QOO), and ascend the road to the right to the Pont
de Ootteron; cross this, and follow a road leading to the hamlet of Boiir-
guiUon. After G min. we take a short-cut to the right, regain the road, and
200 Route Gl. FREIBURG. From Bern
descend to the riglit, through tlie old Porie de Bourguillon, to the pictur-
eaquely situated Loretio Chapel (fine view of the town). Near a small
chapel, farther on, we obtain to the left a view of the valley of the Sarine,
which has been converted into a reservoir to supply the town. A path
with steps descends from this point to the lower town, turning to the
left at the fountain and passing the church of SI. John (founded by the
knights of Malta), beyond which we cross the Sarine by a stone bridge
(Pont St. Jean), and either ascend by the steps to the Hotel de Ville, or
follow the road to the left leading to the station.
The Gothic *Church or St. Nicholas, founded in 1283, and
renovated in the 15th cent., has been recently restored. The hand-
some tower, 280' high, erected in 1470-92, has a portal adorned
with curious reliefs.
The "Organ, one of the finest in Europe, with 67 stops and 7800
pipes, some of them 32' in length, was built by Al. Mooser (d. 1839),
whose bust has been placed under the instrument to the right. Perform-
ances in summer at 1.30 and (except Sat. and the eves of festivals) 8 p.m.
daily. If fewer than 20 persons assemble, there is no performance unless
the sum paid for the tickets is made up to 20.fr. — The late-Gothic carved
Stalls deserve notice. The second chapel on the S. side contains a pleas-
ing modern picture by Deschwanden, St. Anne and St. Mary. The choir
has three modern stained-glass windows (St. Nicholas and other saints).
A tablet on the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the memory of
Canisius (d. 1597), a famous Jesuit, who is buried in St. Michael's Church
(see below).
The Hotel db Ville, near the church of St. Nicholas, occupies
the site of the palace of the dukes of Zahringen. The octagonal
clock-tower dates from 1611. In front of it stands a venerable lime-
tree, 14' in circumference, supported by stone pillars.
According to tradition, this tree was originally a twig, borne by a
young native of Freiburg when he arrived in the town, breathless and
exhausted from loss of blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory
of Morat (1476). 'Victory' was the only word he could utter, and having
thus fulfilled his mission, he expired.
In the vicinity is a bronze Statue of Father Greyoire Oirard
(d. 1850).
Near the Morat Gate is the old Jesuits' College of St. Michael,
with a church, founded by Father Canisius, but now managed by
secular clergy. Opposite it, to the left, is a plain, barrack-like
Boys' School, founded by the Jesuits, in 1827. — The Lycee, next
the College, contains the valuable Cantonal Museum,
Two rooms on the ground-floor contain the 'Marcello Museum, be-
queathed to the town by the sculptress Duchess Adela Colonna (d. 1879),
a native of Freiburg , who assumed the name of Marcello : Busts and
statues ('Pythia) by Marcello; pictures by her, and by Velasquez, Regnault,
Hebert, Delacroix, Fortuny, Courbet, etc. ; tapestry, furniture, etc. ; also
the Canionnl Picture Gallery of ancient and modern works. — On the
first floor (live rooms) is a valuable collection of antiquities from lake-
dwellings, Roman and Swiss relics, ethnographical objects, weapons and
armour, coins, etc. — The second floor (two rooms) contains zoological
and physical, the third floor mineralogical and botanical collections.
The great *Suspension Bridge, or Grand Pont Suspendu, con-
structed by Chaley in 1834, is 270 yds. long, and 168' above the
Sarine. It is supported by six wire-ropes, 410 yds. in length, which
form a single inverted arch, the extremities being secured by 128 an-
to Lausanne. ROMONT. 01. Route. 201
chors attached to blocks of stone far below the surface of the earth.
On the side next the town the chains pass through the walls of
several liouses. — A little farther up is the Pont de Gotteron (260
yds. long, 245' high), a similar bridge, constructed in 1840 over the
Vallee de Ootteron, a deep ravine descending to the Sarine. On
the right side the chains of this bridge are secured in the sandstone
rock itself.
Feom Freiburg to Yverdon, 31 '/2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (4 fr. 5 c.
or 3 fr.). Near (S'/a M.) Selfavx is a huge embankment, forming an aque-
duct for the Sornaz , 150 yds. in length. Stat. Grollet/ , Lichelles, Coussei,
Corcelles, and (14V2 M.) Pai/enie(^p. 203j, the junction of the 'Ligne de Broye'.
We cross the Broye and the Olane. 16'/2 M. Cugy ; 20 M. Estavayer Ci/ir/wo«
de Ville; Cer/), a considerable little town, with the picturesque chateau
of Chilnaux, on the Lake of Neuchatel. (Steamer twice daily by Cor-
taillod and Avvernier to Neuchatel, p. 191.) — 237-2 M. Cheyres ; 26 M.
Yvona7id, on a tongue of land projecting far into the lake, at the mouth
of the Mentue, where Roman relics have been found. 31V2 M. i'verdon
(p. 198).
To the S.E. of Freiburg (15 M.; road by Rechthalden and Plaffeyen ; dil-
igence in summer daily in 4 hrs.), in the valley of the Sense, is the Schwarze
See (Lac JVoir, 3365'), amidst lofty mountains, and well stocked with flsh.
On its bank lies the ' Schwarzsee-Bad, or Bains Dombie (R. 1-3, board
4-6 fr. per day), with sulphur-springs. The Kaisereggschloss (7183'), to the
S.E. (3 hrs., with guide) , commands the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. — •
From the Schwarze See over the Col de Chisalettes to (10'/2 M.) Char-
mey, see p. 187 ; over the Gantrist Pass to Thun, p. 187.
Ascent of the "Berra (Birrenberg, 5655'), 4V2-5 hrs. from Freiburg, in-
teresting. Road by Marly, a village prettily situated on the Girine (Aer-
gerenhach), to f6 BI.) Le Mouret; thence a bridle-path up the Kiisenberg to
the (21/-2 hrs.) top. Extensive view of the Jura, the lakes of Neuchatel,
Jlorat, and Bienne, and the Alps. Descent to Valsainte (p. 187) 3/4 hr., to
the Schwarze See I1/2 hr.
As the train proceeds we enjoy a view of the Simmenthal and
Freiburg Mts. to the left, the Moleson being conspicuous. The Glane,
with its perpendicular banks, and a handsome bridge of four arches
which carries the road across it, are also seen to the left. 24 M.
Matran; 251/0 M. Rose; 27 M. Neyruz; 28V2 M. Cottens ; 30 M.
Chenens. Near (33 M.) Villaz-St. Pierre the train enters the valley
of the Glane ; on the left are the fertile slopes of the Oibloux (3947').
Near Romont, to the left, is the nunnery of La Fille Dieu.
36 M. Romont (2325'; pop. 1871; *Cer/'; Couroime; *Croix
Blanche), a little town on the Glane, with ancient walls and watch-
towers, is picturesquely situated on a hill. The Castle on the S.
side, founded by the Burgundian kings in the 10th cent., is now
occupied by the local authorities. The old Gothic Church contains
choir-stalls with grotesque carving. At the S. end of the hill rises
a massive round tower ; the adjoining grounds afford a pleasing view.
From Romont to Bulle (p. 235) 12 31., branch-line in 50 min. Stations
Vuisternens, Sales, Vaulruz (p. 236).
391/2 M. Siviriez. A tunnel pierces the watershed between the
Glane and the Broye. 42 M. Vauderens. To the right lies the
valley of the Broye, with the Payerne railway (p. 202) and the town
of Rue (p. 202). At (46 M.) Oron-le-Chatel (2378') we pass through
202 Route 61. CHEXRRES.
a cutting in the castle-liill to the station on the S. side; Oro7i-la-
Ville lies below, to the right (sec below). The train now descends
and crosses the Mionna% and the Broye. 48 M. Stat. Palezieux (see
below). We again ascend slightly, traversing a smiling and partially
wooded tract, to (53'/2M.)r/iCx6res, the station forVevey (see below).
The 'Signal de Chexbres (1920' ; *IIdt. du Signal, with garden), 10 min.
from the station, affurds a superb view. At our feet lies the greater part
of the Lake of Geneva; to the left Vevey ; above it, from left to right, are
the saddle of the Col de Jaman, the tooth-like Bent de Jaman, the broad
back of the Kochers de Naye, and the Tour d'Ai and Tour de Morges-,
farther back, the Grand-Moeveran and the Dent de Mercies. In the centre
of the background is the pyramid of Mont Catogne; on its left rises the
snowy cone of Mont Velan ; to the right the Savoy Mts., with the Dent
d'Oche. — Travellers bound for Vevey may descend direct from the Signal
to the village of Chexbres.
From Chexbres to Vevet, 4 M. The diligence, corresponding with
every train, descends to Vevey in 45 min. (passengers may alight at the
station); ascent from Vevey to Chexbres I'/z hr., leaving Vevey about 2 hrs.
before the train is due at Chexbres. The road leads through (t M ) the
large village of Chexbres (1903'; "Lion d'Or), with its old castle (whence
Ti path descends direct to Rivaz-St. Saplioriii, a station on the W. Railway,
p. 22S), and then descends, in view of the beautiful lake and the Savoy
Mts., to the Lausanne and Vevey road and (3 M.) Veve>i (p. 222).
Beyond the next tunnel (506 yds.) a **Vie-w' of singular beauty,
embracing the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the surround-
ing mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of Vevey,
which is not itself visible, are the Pleiades, the Dent de Jaman,
the valley of the Rhone, and the Savoy Mts. ; in the foreground lie
numerous villages amidst vineyards. Beyond a tunnel (through
which the setting sun shines in summer) and stat. Grandvaux
(Cully) we observe the villages of Lutry, PuUy , and Ouchy on the
lake, and Lausanne on the hill above them. Beyond another tunnel
and a viaduct we reach ( TiS'/o M.) La Conversion (iMtry), and cross
the valley of the Paud'eze (p. 121) by a viaduct of nine arches. After
another short tunnel our train reaches the Lausanne and Vevey line.
61 M. Lausanne, see p. 220.
62. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss.
63 M. Raii-wav in A'/zhrs. ; fares 8 fr. 10, 5 fr. 90 c. (no 1st class).
To Palezieux (13 M.), see above. We follow the pleasant val-
ley of the Broi/e. 15 M. Palezieuz-halte (village and ruined castle
on the right) ; IT'/jM. CftatifZens (I/2M. to the N.E. is Oron-la-
Ville, see above); 10 M. Ecuh lens -Rue. The little town of Eue
(2323'; Maison de Ville; Fleur de Lis) lies on a hill to the right,
commanded by an old chateau. 23 M. Bressonaz.
241/2 M. Moudon (1690'; pop. 2685; Hot. du Pont; Couronne;
Hot. de Ville), with the chateaux of Carouge and Rochefort , an old
town, the Roman Minodunum , and long the capital of the Pays de
Vaud. Handsome Gothic church. — Farther on we cross the Broye
twice. 271/2 M. Lucens , with a picturesque old chateau ; 30 M.
AVENCHES. (Sf?. Route. 203
Henniez^ to the left of which are the old chateau aiul church of Sur-
pierre, on a lofty crag; 32 M. Oranges-Marnand.
37 M. Payerne, Ger. Peterlingen (1480'; pop. 3631; *Ours;
Croix Blanche), an old town, the Roman Paternincum (?) , was
early in the middle ages a frequent residence of the kings of Bur-
gundy. In the 10th cent. Bertha, wife of Rudolph II., erected a
church and Benedictine abhey here, the former now a granary,
the latter a school. Her bones, with those of her husband and her
son Conrad, were discovered in 1817 below a tower of the old
church, and were buried in the Parish Church, where the queen's
saddle with a hole for her distaff is shown. To this day the ex-
pression, 'Ce n'est plus le temps ou Berthe fllait', is a regretful
allusion to the 'good old times'.
From Payerne to Freiburg and Yi'erdon, see p. 201.
The valley of the Broye becomes broad and marshy. SS'/o M.
Corcelles; -iO'/o M. Dompierre ; 42M. Domdidier.
431/2 M. Avenches (1519'; pop. 1850; *Couronne; Hotel de
Ville^, now a small town , was the ancient capital of the Ilelvetii,
the Rom. Aventicum. Distinct remains of an Amphitheatre and other
buildings, and of the old town -walls, testify to its former pro-
sperity. The medicBval Castle, at the entrance to the town, occupies
the site of the Roman capitol. To the N.W. rises a solitary Corin-
thian column 39' high, the remnant of a temple of Apollo, now
called Le Cigognier, from the stork's nest which has occupied it for
centuries. The Museum (custodian lives near the church; small
fee) contains mosaics, inscriptions, and other relics recently found
here; in its garden is the above-mentioned amphitheatre.
In his Childe Harold (iii. 65) Lord Byron alludes to the 'Cigognier': —
' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears
A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days.'
For centuries a tradition was current that the tombstone of a daughter
of Julius Alpinus had been discovered at Avenches, the supposed inscription
on which Lord Byron describes as a most affecting composition (Ch. Har.
iii., 66, 67); but both monument and inscription are said to have been
invented by a certain Paulus Guilelmus, who lived in the 16th cent.
At (4572 M.) Faoug (Soleil ; Hot. Wicky) we approach the Lake
of Morat (1428'), the Roman Lacus Aventicensis and the Vecht-
See of the middle ages (comp. p. 199), 51/2 M. long. It is separated
from the Lake of Neuchatel by the narrow Afon< Vully towards the N.
and the Charmontel to the S., but connected with it by the Broye.
471/2 M. Morat, Ger. Murten (1522'; pop. 2333; Couronne or
Post; Croix; Lion; Pens. Kauer , on the lake, moderate; Rail.
Restaur.') , an ancient little town with well preserved gates and
walls, lies on the lake named after it. Its narrow arcaded streets
are overshadowed by an old Castle, which in 1476, with a garrison
of 1500 Bernese under Adrian v. Bubenberg, resisted the artillery of
Charles the Bold for ten days before the battle of Morat. The School
contains a collection of Burgundlan weapons. Lake Baths next the
Pension Kauer, at the S. end of the town.
204 Route (13. ORBE.
About I'/o M. to the S. of Morat, near the lake, rises a marble OheVsk,
erected in 18'J2 in memory of the Battle of Morat, which was fought on
22nd June, 1476. This was the bloodiest of those three disastrous contests
(Grandson, Morat, and Nancy), in which the puissant Duke of Burgundy
successively lost his treasure , his courage, and his life ('Gut, Muth , und
Blut'). The Burgundians lost 15,000 men and all their military stores.
The Steamboat from Morat to Neuciiatf.l (twice daily in 2V-.> hrs.)
crosses the lake to Motier and Praz, at the E. base nf the vine-clad Moiit
Vully (2267') ; at Sugiez it passes under a wooden bridge and enters the
Broye. To the W. stretches the Jura, from the Weissenstein to the Chas-
seron. Near La Sauge we enter the Lake of Neuclidlel (p. 190), steering
first S.W. to Ciidrefin, and afterwards N.W. to St. Blaise and Neuchdlel
(see p. 190). — Diligence from Morat to NeucMtel 3 times daily in 2-2'/i
hrs., via Anet, Ger. Ins; to Freiburg twice daily in 2'/4 hrs.
Near (SQi/o M.) Galmitz, Fr. Charmey, we leave the lake. To
the left is the Grosse Moos, an extensive marshy tract, partly re-
claimed of late. 521/2 M. Kerzers, Fr. Chietres (*Fei\s. Mosching,
4-4'/2 fr.); 641/2 M. Frdschels, Fr. Frasse; 57 M. Kallnach.
591/2 M. Aarberg (1470'; pop. 1228; Krone), an old town on
an island in the Aare. Adjoining the church is the old castle of the
counts of Aarberg, who sold their dominions to Bern in 1351.
Diligence to Bern daily in 3 hrs. via Frienisberg , once a Cistercian
monastery, now a deaf-and-dumb asylum, Maikirch, and Orlschwaben.
Lastly, we cross the Aare to f 63 M.) Lyss , on the Bienne-Bern
line (p. 11).
63. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier.
45 M. Railway in 21/2-3 hrs. (8 fr. 20, 5 fr. 85, 4 fr. 20 c). Express from
Lausanne to Paris by this route (327 M.) in 11 hrs. (64 fr., 47 fr. 80 c., 35 fr.).
To (9 M.) Cossonay, see p. 199. The train at first runs parallel
with the Yverdon line, diverges to the left at ViUars-Lussery, and
leads by Eclepens to (15 M.) La Sarraz (1647'; Maison de Ville'), a
small town with an old chateau. Two short tunnels. Near Orny
we cross the Nozon.
18 m. Arnex-Orbe{i79i''); 3/4 M. to the N. lies the picturesque
old town of Orbe (1460'; 1925 inh. ; Deux Poissons ; Ecu de France),
on the Orbe, which is crossed here by two bridges. Early in the
middle ages Orbe was the capital of Little Burgundy, to which period
belong the two towers of tlie chateau (view from the terrace). —
Post-omnibus to stat. Chavornay (ip . 198) seven times daily ini/2hr.
The line then leads in long windings, by Bofflens, to (22 M.)
Croy-Romainmotier, V/o M. from Romainniotier (2295'; 370 inh. ;
Maison de Ville), a very ancient place, with the dilapidated church
of an abbey which was fotinded in 753 and suppressed in 1536.
From Romainmotier to Le Pont (9 M.). The road leads by (A'/'i M.)
VatiUoii (3067'), from which the Dent de Vavlion (p. 205) is ascended
without difficulty in l'/^ hour. Guide advisable, especially for the descent
to Le Pont (p. 205), 1 hr.
The train skirts wooded hills ; on the right lies ""he deep valley
of the Orhe, and high on its left bank are the villages of LigneroUes,
whence Mont Suchet (5235') i.s easily ascended in 272 li'^., and
BaUaiyues (""Hot. -Pens, la Sassiniere), now visited as a summer
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VALLORBE. 63. lioute. 205
resort (Engl. Church service). ^Near Vallorbe we cross the Orbe
above the influx of the Jougnenaz.
297.2 M. Vallorbe (_2520'; 2124 inh. ; *H6tel de Geneve, at the
station ; Maison de Ville, Croix Blanche, both moderate), a watch-
making and iron-working place, at the base of the Mont d'Or (4818'),
mostly burned down in 1883. To the S.W., Y2M., is the so-called
Source of the Orbe (2570') , which emerges from the rock in con-
siderable Yolume.
To the Lac de Jocx and Dent de Vaulion, an interesting excursion.
Travellers bound for the Lake of Geneva may then proceed next day by
Le Brassus and the Col de Marchairuz to Rolle (see below and p. 219). —
The Railway from Vallokbe to Le Pont, 6'-.'M., in 40 niin., crosses the
Orbe by an imposing viaduct, gradually ascends to the tunnel (500 yds.
long) through the Mont dfOrzeires (3395'), and then descends along the
Lac Brenet (see below) to Le Pont. To the right, before the tunnel, is
the Source of the Orbe (see above).
6V2 M. Le Pont ( Tniite), a hamlet at the N. end of the Lac de Joux (3310';
5 31. long, 11/4 M. broad), which is separated from the little Lac Bvenet by
an embankment with a bridge. On the If. side of the Lac Brenet are a
number of apertures (enfonnvirs) in the rocks, serving to drain the lake,
the waters of which, after a subterranean course of 3 51., give birth to
the Orbe (see above), 750' lower.
Le Pont lies on the S. slope of the *Dent de Vaulion (4?80'), the W.
side of which presents a barren and rugged precipice , 1600' high , while
the E. side is a gentle, grassy slope. The top is reached in 1^/4 hr.
from Le Pout , or in I1/2 hr. from Vaulion (see above ■■, guide desirable).
View of the Lac de Joux, the Lac des Rousses, the Noirmont, and the
Dole; to the S.E. part of the Lake of Geneva, and beyond it Mont
Blanc and the Alps of the Valais ; lastly the Bernese Oberland.
On the E. bank of the Lac de Joux, 1 M. S. of Le Pont, lies UAbbaye
(Inn), with the church of an ancient Premonstratensian monastery. Ascent
of the -Mont Tendre (5512'), 2 hrs., interesting. At the S. end of the lake,
6V2 M. from Le Pont (by boat in 1V2-2 hrs., with one rower 3-4 fr.), lies
the hamlet of Le Sen tier ; and on the Orbe, 2 M. higher up, is the village
of Le Brassus (3412'; B61. de la Lande; II6t. de France; diligence to Le
Pont twice daily in 2 hrs., via Le Lieu; one-horse carr. 10 fr.), with iron
works. Thence over the Col de Marchairuz to (I6V2 M.) Rolle, see p. 219.
The train follows the pretty, wooded valley of the Jougnenaz to
(341/2 M.) Jougne (Lion d'Or), with the French douane. Beyond a
tunnel we pass Les Hopitaux Neufs and Les Hopitaux Vieux. 42 M.
Frambourg. Near the Fort de Joux , before the defile of La C'luse
(p. 196), we join the Neuchatel line.
45 M. Pontarlier, sec p. 197.
64. Geneva and Environs.
Arrival. Station of the Chemin de Fer de la Sulsse Occidentale
(PI. D, 2) on the right bank, at the upper end of the Rue du Montblanc. Om-
nibus from the station to all the hotels (and from the hotels to the station)
30 c. ; each box 15 c. — Station of Geneva and Eaux Vives (for Anne-
masse, Annecy, Bouveret, Bellegarde), on the Route de Bonneville (PI. F, 8;
tramway to the Place du Jlolurd and the Western Station). — Steamboat
Piers on the S. (left) bank by the Jardin Anglais, and on the K. (right)
bank by the Quai du Montblanc, opposite the Brunswick Monument (for
the express boats only).
Hotels. On the Right Bank, with view of the lake and the Alps: *Hot.
DES Bekgues (Pl. a; D, 4), Quai des Bergues; 'Hot. de Russie (PI. b; D, 4)
20G Route 64. GENEVA. Hotels.
and ''Grand Hot. ue la Paix (PI. c; U, 4), on tile Qual du Montblanc;
'Hot. Beau-Rivaue (Pl.d; E, 4) and 'Hot. d'Angleterre (PI. e; E, 4), on
the (2"ai desPaquis; beyond these, on the Quai du Leman, 'Grand Hot.
National (PI. f . ; F, 2), a large house, finely situated. — On the Left Bank:
*H6t. MtTROPOLE (PI. !^ ; I>, 5), by the Jardin Anglais; *H6t. de l'Bcu
(PI. h; C, 4); both with view of the lake. All these hotels are of the
first class, with corresponding charges: R., L., & A. from 4-5, B. I'/z, D.
5 fr. — 'Hot. de la Poste (PI. i; B, 4), frequented by German commercial
travellers, R., L., & A. from 2'/2i i>- incl. wine 3 and 4 fr.; 'Hot. do Lac
(PI. k; D, 5), R., L., & A. 3, D. 3 fr. ; 'Hot. de Parls (PI. 1; D, 5), with
view of the lake, R. & A. 272-3 fr. ; 'Hot. Victoria (PI. m ; E, 6j, Rue Pierre-
Fatio; 'Hotel du Mont Blanc, Balance (PI. n; C, 4), and (Jrand Aigle
(PI. o; f), 5), in the Rue du Rhone. — On the right bank: Hot. Suisse
(PI. p; D, 3), R., L., & A. 31/2, !>• 31/2 fr.; Hot. de GenSve (PI. q; D, 3),
R., L., & A. 3, D. 3V2 f r. ; both in the Rue du Montblanc; Hot. Richemont,
(PI. r;E, 4), Place des Alpes, similar charges; Hot.-Pens. des Arts, Hot.
DE LA Gare (PI. t; D, 2), and Hot. de la Monnaie, all near the station.
Pensions, very numerous owing to the great influx of strangers:
120 to 3(X) fr. per month. Bovet (2CK) fr.). Rue General Dufonr ; Vautier
(G fr. per day), Quai Pierre-Fatio 12; Fischer, Quai des Eaux-Vives 3
(6 fr. per day; lake-baths near it); i/nie. S. Bovet, Quai des Eaux-Vives 2
(for ladies, 150-170 fr.); Mme. Fleischmann , Rue de la Plaine 5 (5-6 fr.);
Faure-Malthey (Maison des Trois Rots), Place Bel-Air 2 (ofr. per day, 125 fr.
per month); Labarthe , near the university; Fromont et Jackson, Rue du
Montblanc and Rue Pradier 1; Hiller, Rue du Rhone 53; Morliardt, Boul.
de Plainpalais 20; Pens, du Rhone, Boul. de Plainpalais 26; Mme. Richardet
(6 fr. per day), Rue du Montblanc 8; Vve. Picard (180 fr.), Place de la
Metropole 2; Mme. A. Revercho7i , Place des Alpes and Rue Levrier 13;
Bersot, Place de la Synagogue 2 ; Durand, Chemin Dancet 3 ; Maret, Petit-
Florissant 12 ; 'list.- Pens. Beau-Sijour, in Champel-sur-Arve (p. 213), also
for a single day: ~ Hot.-Pens. de la Roseraie, same place; Hot.-Pens. Bellevue,
Rue de Lyon 29, with garden, 5-7 fr. — For students chiefly: Berard (85-
100 fr.) , Rue du Rhone 29.
Caifes. Kiosque des Bastions, on the Promenade des Bastions (p. 211),
with music almost every afternoon and evening; Ch/(? du Nord, de la
Couronne, and de Qen'eve, all on the Grand Quai ; du Theatre, in the Theatre ;
du Musie; Lyrique; in the Jardin Anglais; du Jardin des Alpes, etc. —
Beer at the cafds. Also ScholVs, Rue du Rhone 92 ; Landolt, Rue du Rhone
and Rue du Conseil General ; Brasserie de VOpira, near the theatre ; Brass,
de Rive ; Brass, de VEsph-ance, Route de Carouge 42 ; Brass. St. Jean (fine
view); Grande Brasserie de Munich, Boulevard James Fazy 3, opposite the
Promenade St. Jean; Bonivard, Rue des Alpes 6; Brass, de la Place des
Alpes, in the German style; Brass. Bernoise, Rue du Montblanc 11. Geneva
beer at the breweries outside the gates: Treiber, Route de Chene, with a
pleasant shady terrace. — Kestaurants. Left Bank: Ca/e du Nord, dear;
Cafe du Lac, Rue du Rhone 78; Villard, Rue du Rhone 51; also at the
hotels. The tables d'hote at the hotels are on the whole better and less
expensive than dinners a la carte at the restaurants.
Baths. Bains de la Poste, Place de la Poste, well fitted up, hot, cold,
shower, and vapour baths ; Bains des Alpes, Rue Levrier 5; Bains de Chante-
poulet. Rue de Chantepoulet, etc. — Lake Baths. Swimming and other baths
by the Quai des Kaux-Vives (left bank); also by the pier on the opposite
bank (PI. F, 4) ; both open for ladies 8-10 o'clock. — "Baths in the Rhone
above the Pont de la Machine (PI. C, 4), well fitted up; swimming-bath
30, plunge-bath 60, with towels 80-90 c. — Baths in the Arve, very
cold (in summer only about 50°), Chemin des Bains de TArve, 20, ^4 ^•
from the Place Neuve ; also at Champel-sur-Arve (p. 213).
Post and Telegraph Offices (with Poste Restante), Place de la Poste
(PI. B, 4). Branch Offices at the railway-station, at Rue du Rhone 55, near
the Palais de Justice and Route de Carouge 13.
Tramway from the station by the Pont du Montblanc, Place du Molard,
Place Neuve, Rond Point de Plainpalais to Carouge (p. 215), and from the
tation by the Place du Molard, and Cours de Rive to the Oeneva and Eaux-
Physicians. GENEVA. 04. Route. 207
Vivet JSlation (p. 205) and to Chene (p. 263) and Annemasse (p. 253). Single
trip 10 c; Carouge to Chene 40 c. — Steam Tramway to Veirier (p. 215),
Chene (p. 253) and Annemasse (p. 253).
Cabs. Drive in the town, 1-2 pers. 1 fr., 3-4 pers. i'/i fr., to Eaux-
Vives and Plainpalais 2 fr. ; box 50 c. ; for one hour within the octroi-
limits, 1-4 pers. 21/2 fr., every additional V4 hr. 60 c. ; to Varembe
(Ariana) 2'/2, to Petit Saeonnex 3, Chambesy, Cologny, Grand-Saconnex 4,
Vesenaz, Bellevue 5, Fernex. Genthod 6, Mornex 12, Monnetier 15 fr. —
VoiTDRiEKs : Kolliker, Aux Paquis ; Regard, on the Terrassiere ; Chatelel
Freres, Rue des Paquis 35. One-horse carr. about 15, two-horse 30 fr. per
day, fees included.
Boats (GO c. - 1 fr. 20 c. per hr. ; boatman 1 tr. 20 c. per hr.), near the
Jardin Anglais , the Quai du Montblanc , and the two piers (Jeties). The
English Vano(j>' are steadier than the '■voiliers'' or sailing-boats. The smaller
boats used within the harbour are called '■nacelles.'' Rowers are prohibited
from approaching the Pont des Bergues on account of the dangerous rapids.
Shops. The most attractive are those on the Grand-Quai, the Rue du
Rhone, the Rue de la Corraterie (left bank) , the Quai des Bergues, and
the Rue du Montblanc (right bank). Geneva is noted for its watches and
jewellery. Among the watch-makers of repute may be mentioned Vacheron
<t Co., Rue Tour de Tile 3; Golay, Leresche it Fils, Quai des Bergues 31 ; Pi-
guet & Bachmann, Ekegrin, Patek <t Co., all on the Grand-Quai; LecouUve,
Rue Bonivard 8; BadoUetd- Co., near the post-office; H. Capt, and Kossel-
Bautte, Rue du Rhone; Dufour & Co., Place du Molard 11. — Engraver,
M. L. Bovy, chiefly for medals. Rue Chantepoulet. — Musical boxes : F.
Conchon, Place des Alpes 9 & Rue des Paquis 2; G. Baker-Troll d: Co.,
Rue Bonivard 6.
Booksellers. Oeorg, Corraterie 10; Burkhardt, Molard 2.
Theatre (p. 212). Performances daily in winter (adm. I'/z-o fr. ; seats
secured in advance, or 'en location", at higher charges). — Kursaal on the
Quai des Paquis (PI. E, 3); concert every evening at 8 p.m., adm. 1-3 fr.
Organ Concert in the Cathedral (p. 210) on Mon., Wed., and Sat., at
7. 30 p. m. ; tickets (Ifr.) obtainable from the concierge and at the hotels.
— Concerts in the Baiiment Electoral (p. 213) every Sunday afternoon in
winter; also fortnightly in the Theatre (see above).
Exhibition of Art, belonging to the Soci^ti des Amis des Beaux-Arts,
in the Athenee (p. 211), open daily 10-6, Sun. 11-4; adm. 1 fr. — Ex-
position Municipale das Beaux-Arts in Aug. and Sept. annually, in the
Batiment Electoral (p. 213). — Panorama (PI. B, 4), Boulevard de Plain-
palais, open daily (1 fr.). — Public Lectures (Cours publics et gratuits) in
the University Hall, in winter daily at 8 p.m.
Physicians. Dr. Wilkinson, Place du Lac 1; Dr. L. Appia, Rue des
Chanoines 5 ; Prof. D'Espine, Rue Beauregard 6. Dentist : Dr. Williams,
Place Metropole 2. — Chemists. Oeo. Baker, Place des Bergues 3; Hahn,
Place Longemalle ; Belli, Rue du Montblanc, etc.
Hydropathic Establishment (physician Dr. Glatz) at Champel-sur-Arve
(p. 213; tramway-station La Cluse), well fitted up. Lofty terrace, open to
the public, with fine view of the Arve and the town.
British Consul (for the French-speaking cantons), Daniel F. P. Barton,
Esq. — American Consul, Lyell T. Adams, Esq.
English Church (P1.D,3,4) on the right bank, in the Rue du Montblanc.
— American Episcopal Church, Rue des Voirons (PI. E, 3). — Presbyterian
Services are also held here in summer.
Geneva (1243'; pop. 72,000, including the suburbs), Fr. 6e-
neve, Ital. Ginevra, the capital of the smallest canton next to Zug
(total pop. 105,966), is the largest and richest town in Switzerland.
It lies at the S. end of the lake, at the point where the blue waters of
thu Rhone emerge from it with the swiftness of an arrow, and a little
above the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve (p. 215). The
208 Route 64. GENEVA. . History.
Rhone divides the town into two parts : on the left bank lies the
Old Town, the seat of government and centre of traffic; on the right
bank is the Quartier St. Qervais, formerly a suburb only. The old
fortifications having been removed since 1850, the town has extended
rapidly, and new streets are still springing up.
History. Geneva makes its appearance in the 1st cent. B. C. as Ge-
nava, a town of the Allobroges (Cses. de Bell. Gall., i. 6-8), whose terri-
tory became a Roman province. In 433 it became the capital of the Bur-
gundian kingdom, with which it came into the possession of the Franks
in 533, was annexed to the new Burgundian kingdom at the end of the
9th cent., and fell to the German Empire in 1033. In 1034 Kmp. Con-
rad II. ca\ised himself to be crowned here as king of Burgundy. In the
course of the protracted conflicts for supremacy between the Bishops
of Geneva, the imperial Counts of Geneva, and the Counts (afterwards
Dukes) of Savoy, the citizens succeeded in obtaining various privileges.
In 1518 they entered into an alliance with Freiburg, and in 1526 with
Bern. Two parties were now formed in the town, the Confederates ('Eid-
genossen', pronounced by the French 'Higuenos', whence the term 'IIu-
f/uenots^), and the Mamelukes, partisans of the House of Savoy.
In the midst of these discords dawned the Befokmation, which Geneva
zealously embraced. In 1535 the Bishop transferred his seat to Ge.x, and
the following year the theologian Jean Calvin (properly Caulvin or Chauvin),
who was born at Noyon in Picardy in 1509, a refugee from Paris, sought
refuge at Geneva. He attached himself to Farel, the chief promoter of
the new doctrines at Geneva, and soon obtained great influence in all affairs
of church and state. In 1538 he was banished , but on bis return three
years later he obtained almost sovereign power and succeeded in esta-
blishing a rigid ecclesiastical discipline. His rhetorical powers were of
the highest order , and the austerity which he so eloquently preached he
no less faithfully practised. In accordance with the spirit of the age,
however, his sway was tyrannical and intolerant. Caslellio, who rejected
the doctrine of predestination, was banished in 1540; and Michael Servetns,
a Spanish physician who had tied from Vienne in Dauphine in consequence
of having written a treatise against the doctrine of the Trinity (de Trinilalis
erroribiis) , and was only a visitor at Geneva, was arrested in 1553 by
Calvin's order and condemned to the stake and executed by order of the
Great Council. In 1559 Calvin founded the Geneva Academy, which soon
became the leading Protestant school of theology, so that the hitherto
commercial city now acquired repute as a seat of learning also. Calvin
died on 27th May, 1564, but his doctrine has been firmly rooted in Geneva
ever since. — The attempts made by the Dukes of Savoy at the beginning
of the 17th cent, to recover possession of Geneva were abortive, Protestant
princes, who recognised the town as the bulwark of the Reformed church,
having contributed considerable sums towards its fortiflcation.
In the 18th cent. Geneva was greatly weakened by dissensions, often
leading to bloodshed, between the privileged classes, consisting of the old
families (citoyenx), who enjoyed a monopoly both of power and of trade,
and the unprivileged and poorer classes (bourgeois, habitants, and sujets).
To these dilTorcnccs the writings of Jean Jacques Rousseau, the son of a
watchmaker, born here in 1712, materially contributed. At the instigation
of Voltaire and the university of Paris, his 'Emile" and ^Conlrat SociaV
were burnt in 1763 by the hangman, by order of the magistrates, as being
'tdmeraires, scandaleux, impies, et tendants a detruire la religion chr^tienne
et tons les gouvernements". — In 1798 Geneva became the capital of the
French Ddpartement du Liman, and in 1814 it joined the Swiss Confede-
ration, of which it became the 22nd Canton.
The two halves of the city separated by the Rhone are con-
nected by eight bridges. The highest of these, the handsome *Pont
du Montblanc (PI. D, 4, 5), 280 yds. long, leads from the Rue du
Montblanc, a broad street descending from the railway-station, to the
Quai du Monthlanc. GENEVA. 64. Route. 209
Jardin Anglais (see p. 210), and with this garden forms the centre
of attraction to visitors in summer. Between the Pont du Mont-
hlanc and the Pont des Bergues is Rousseau's Island (PI. D, 4),
united to the latter by a chain-bridge, and planted with trees (small
caf^). In the centre rises the bronze statue of the 'wild self-tortur-
ing sophist', by Pradier (1834). At the third bridge, the Pont de la
Machine (PL C, 4, above which are the Rhone baths, p. 206), the
Rhone divides into two branches, the left of which is conducted
to the waterworks (p. 214), while the right forms the canalized
channel for the discharge from the lake.
Handsome quays with tempting shops flank the river near these
bridges, the principal being the Orand-Quai on the left bank, and
the Quai des Bergues on the right. Adjacent to the latter is the
Quai du Montblanc (PI. D, E, 4), extending from the Pont du Mont-
hlanc towards the N.E., and affording a beautiful survey of the *Mont
Blanc group, which presents a majestic appearance on clear evenings.
An idea of the relative heights of the different peaks is better ob-
tained from this point than at Chamonix. Tlius Mont Blanc is 15,781' in
height, whilst the Aiguilles du Midi on the left are 12,608 only. Farther
to the left are the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Ge'ant ; in front of the
Mont Blanc group are the Aiguilles Rouges; then, more in the foreground,
the Mule, an isolated pyramid rising from the plain; near it the snowy
summit of the Aiguille d'Argentiere; then the broad Buet ; lastly the long
crest of the Voirons, which terminate the panorama on the left, while
the opposite extremity is formed by the Saleve.
In the Place des Alpes rises the sumptuous Monument Bruns-
wick (PI. E, 4), erected to Duke Charles II. of Brunsirick (d. 1873),
■who bequeathed his property (about 20 million fr.) to the town of
Geneva.
The monument (in all 66' in height) is a modified and slightly enlarged
copy of that of Can Signorio delta Scala at Verona. It was designed by
Franel, and consists of a hexagonal structure in the form of a pyramid, in
three stories, composed of white and coloured marble, surmounted by an
equestrian statue of the duke in bronze, by Cain. 'The central story is
in the form of a Gothic chapel with a sarcophagus, on which is a recum-
bent figure of the duke by Icrtiel ; and the reliefs on the sides (scenes from
the history of Brunswick) are by the same master. At the corners, under
projecting canopies borne by pillars, are marble statues of six celebrated
Guelphs; higher up are the Christian virtvies, the Twelve Apostles, etc.
— The platform is embellished with mosaic pavement, flower-beds, and
fountains. On the right and left are two colossal Griffins by Cain. The
pinnacled erection resembling a tower, on the W. side, afl'ords a good
survey of the monument, with Mont Blanc in the background.
The continuation of the Quai du Montblanc is formed by the
Quai des Paquis, planted with trees, on which is the Kursaal (PI.
E, 3; see p. 207). Behind it is the American Church. This quay
extends to the Jetee, or pier, which affords another fine view of the
Alps and of the city. From the pier to the villas of Secheron extends
the handsome Quai du Leman. — In the Rue du Montblanc is the
Gothic English Church (PI. D, 3, 4), erected by Monod in 1853.
On the S. (left) bank of the lake, to the left as we approach from
the Pont du Montblanc, rises the National Monument (PI. D, 5),
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 14
210 Route 64. GENEVA. Cathedral.
a bronze group of Helvetia and Geneva by Dorer, commemorating
the union of Geneva with the Confederation in 1814. ■ — ^ Farther up
the lake are the pleasant grounds of the Jardin Anglais (Promenade
du Lac), with a care - restaurant , where a band often plays on
summer-evenings. To tiie left of the entrance is a 'barometer co-
lumn', and in the centre of the garden are a pretty fountain and a
bronze bust of Al. Calame (p. 213} by Iguel. A 'kiosque' here con-
tains an interesting ^Relief of Mont Blanc (adm. from 8 a.m.; Sun.
and Thurs. 1-3 gratis; at other times 1/.2 fr.), in limewood, 26' in
length, affording a good general idea of the relative heights of the
'monarch of mountains' and his vassals.
On the lake, to the N. of the Jardin Anglais, extends the broad
Quai des Eaux-Vives, planted with trees. (To Cologny, see p. 215).
Near the Quai is the Salle de la Reformation (PI. E, 6), containing
a large concert-hall, the Calvinium, with memorials of Calvin, art-
icles brought home by missionaries, etc. (adm. '/g f^.) , and an
interesting Relief Model of Jerusalem by Illes.
Ascending the Rue d'ltalie , to the right near the Hotel Me'tro-
pole, for a few paces, we reach the Promenade de St. Antoine (PL
C, D, 6), a terrace planted with trees. On the right is the Colleye
de St. Antoine, founded by Calvin in 1559; to the left (E.) is the
Observatory, and on a height farther off (S.E.) rises the Russian
Church, with its gilded domes, the Interior of which is worth seeing.
Adjacent is a bronze bust of R. Topffer (d. 1846), the author.
The Rue des Chaudronniers leads S.W. from the Promenade to
the Place du Bourg-de-Four (PI. C, 6), in which to the right is
the Palais de Justice, containing the Musee Epigraphique, a col-
lection of Roman and mediaeval inscriptions found at Geneva. —
Leaving the upper end of the Place by the Rue de Vllotel de Ville,
we turn to the right to reach the —
Cathedral (S<. Pierre; PI. C, 6), completed in 1024 by Emp.
Conrad II. in the Romanesque style, altered in the 12th and 13th
cent., and disfigured in the 18th by the addition of a Corinthian por-
tico. The interior is in the transition style of the 13th century.
The verger lives at the back of the church, Rue Farel 8 ('/-i fr.).
Interior. Carved stalls of the i5th century. Monument of Duke Henri
de liolian (leader of the Protestants under Louis XIII.), who fell at Rhein-
felden (p. 17) in 1638, of his wife Marg. de Sully, and his son Tancrede ;
the black marble sarcophagus rests on two lions ; the statue of the duke,
in a sitting posture, has been restored in plaster, the original having been
destroyed in 1798. Beneath a black tombstone in the nave lies Cardinal
Jean de Brogrty (d. 1426), president of the Council of Constance. A black
stone in the S. aisle is to the memory o( Agrippa d^Atibignc (d. 1630 at Geneva,
in e.xile), the confidant of Henry IV. of France, erected to him, in gratitude
for his services, by the Republic of Geneva. Under the pulpit is a chair
once used by Calvin. Adjoining is the beautiful Gothic 'Chapelle des Mac-
cliabees, dating from the beginning of the 15th cent, (recently restored). Ad-
mirable Organ (concerts, see p. 207).
We now return to the Rue de rilotcl de Ville, and turn to the
left to the —
University. GENEVA, f].d. Route. 211
Hotel de Ville (PI. C, 5, 6), a clumsy building in tlie Flor-
entine style, which is entered by an inclined plane, enabling the
councillors to ride, or be conveyed in litters, to or from the council-
chambers. — Opposite is the Arsenal (PI. C, 5; !Sun. and Thurs.,
1-4), containing the Musee Historique Generois, a collection of old
weapons, the ladders used at the 'Escalade' (see below), etc.
In the vicinity, Grand" Rue No. 40, is the house in which Rous-
seau, the son of a watchmaker, was born (1712, d. 1778 at Erme-
nonville near Paris). Ilis grandfather lived at that time at the back
of Rue Rousseau 27, on the right bank of the Rhone . which bears
an erroneous inscription that Rousseau was born there.
The Musee Fol (PL C, 5 ; Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), Grand' Rue 11,
founded by M. W. Fol, contains (in the court to the right) a valuable
collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities, the yield of
recent excavations, and mediaeval and Renaissance curiosities.
The Rue de la Cite , the lower prolongation of the Grand' Rue,
leads to the Rue des Allemands , where a tasteful Fountain Monu-
ment (PI. C, 4) commemorates the last and nearly successful attempt
of the Savoyards to gain possession of the town. The day on which
the 'Escalade' was repulsed (early on 12th Dec. 1602) is still kept
with public rejoicings.
A gateway adjoining the H6tel-de-Ville (see above) leads to the
shady promenades of La Treille, which afford a fine view of the
Saleve. Adjacent to this terrace is the Botanic Garden (PL B, C,
5, 6,), laid out in 1816 by the celebrated Aug. de CandoUe. The
hot-house is adorned with marble busts of famous Genevese, and
in front of it, on a bronze pedestal, rises a colossal bust of De
Candolle. Close by is a bust of E. Boissieu (d. 1885), the botanist.
The adjoining Promenade des Bastions is a favourite resort. (At
the entrance, adjoining the Place Neuve, is the Kiosque des Bastions,
p. 206.) In the grounds opposite are a statue of David by Chapon-
niere and the ^Pierre aux fees', or ^aux dames', with four figures,
said to be a Druidical stone. To the E. is the monument of Gosse,
the geologist.
The Athenee (PI. C, 6), to the S.E. of the Botanical Garden,
a Renaissance edifice, the faijade of which is adorned with busts of
nine famous Genevese, was erected by the wife of the 'philhellenist'
Eynard, and presented to the Societe des Amis des Beaux-Arts. It
contains lecture-rooms, a library of works on the history of art , an
exhibition of works of art (p. 207), and on the sunk-floor the Musee
Industriel (Thurs. and Sun., 1-2). In the latter are preserved the
machines used by L. Favre in boring the St. Gotthard tunnel. —
Near it is the Ecole de Chhnie.
The University Buildings (PI. B, 6), on the Bastion Prome-
nade, erected in 1867-71, consist of three different parts connected
by glass galleries. The central part contains the lecture-rooms and
laboratories, the E. wing the collection of antiquities, coins, and
14*
212 Route 64. GENEVA. Musie Rath.
medals and the Library, and the W. wing the Nat. Hist. Museum.
In the vestibule is a bronze bust of the Swiss author Marc Monnier
by Dufaux. The university has 70 professors and about 700 stu-
dents. Ladies arc admitted to the lectures.
The Bibliotheque Publique, containing 100,000 vols, and 1600 MSS.,
founded liy Bonivard, the prisoner of Chillon (p. 226) in 1551, is splendidly
fitted up. The first floor contains the reading-room (Sat. 9-4, on other week-
days 9-8 oYl.; closed in the afternoon during the university vacations). A
hiill ('Salle Ami Lullin') on the ground-floor, to the right of the entrance,
contains valuable ancient and modern portraits of princes, reformers, and Ge-
nevese and French statesmen and scholars, chiefly of the time of the Refor-
mation (Necker; Lafontaine; Descartes; Winckelmann , by A. Kaufmann\
De Saussure; Turquet de Mayerne, attributed to Ruhens; Ch. Bonnet, by
Juehl ; Sismondi ; De CandoUe, hyfforniing; Humbert; Euler ; D'Aubigne;
Farel ; Beza : Calvin ; Diderot ; Knox ; Zwingli ; Admiral Coligny ; Rabelais,
etc.). This room also contains a collection of MSS., including autographs
of Calvin and Rousseau. The most valuable MSS. are exhibited in glass
cases : homilies of St. Augustine on papyrus (6th cent.) ; house-keeping
accounts of Philip le Bel (1308) ; many with miniatures, some of them
captured from Charles the Bold at Grandson (p. 198). On an old reading-
desk is a French Bible (printed at Geneva in 1588), richly bound in red
morocco, and bearing the arms of France and Navarre, which was destined
by the Council of Geneva as a gift to Henry IV., but never presented
owing to his abjuration of Protestantism. The concierge expects a fee for
showing this room. On the ground-floor is the Cabinet of Coins; and on
the sunk-floor is the Archaeological Museum, containing prehistoric and
other antiquities, chiefly of local interest (Sun. and Thurs., 1-4).
The Natural History Museum, admirably arranged by F. J. Pictet,
contains the famous collection of conchylia of B. Delessert (formerly
Duke Massena), which has been described by Lamarck ; Pictet's collection
of fossils ; De Saussure's geological collection , described in his 'Voyages
dans les Alpes"; Melly's collection of about 35,000 coleoptera; a complete
collection of the fauna of the environs of Geneva ; valuable rock-crystals
from the Tiefengletscher (p. 115), presented by M. Revilliod, etc. — Ad-
mission to the Museum on week-days (except Tues. and Sat.), 1-4, and
Sun., 11-4, gratis; at other times apply to the concierge (fee).
To the N.W., in the Place Neuve (PI, B, 6) is an equestrian
statue of Gen. Dufour (d. 1875), in bronze from a model by Lanz.
On the W. side of the Place rises the new *Theatre, designed by
Ooss, and erected in 1872-79, a handsome Renaissance building,
with a facade enriched with columns and figures. The interior (with
1300 seats), richly embellished with sculptures and mural paint-
ings, deserves a visit (adm. on week-days 1-4).
The *Musee Rath, opposite the theatre, containing a collection
of pictures, casts, etc., was founded by the Russian general Rath, a
native of Geneva , and presented to the city by his sisters. It has
since been much extended. Admission in summer, Mon., Wed.,
Thurs., andFrid. 1-4, and Sun. 11-4, gratis; at other times, l/o fr.
(catalogue '/g fr.).
Vestibcle. In the centre, Borghese vase; on the right, busts of Mo-
liere and Xecker, by ffoudon; Ch. Bonnet by Jaqiiet; Sismondi by Pradier;
on the left, bronze bust of Duke Charles II. of Brunswick (p. 209). Left
(Salle Pradier): Models and busts by Pradier; busts in bronze (Pradier,
Humbert, Jacqaet); busts in marble (Bellot, Rousseau). Odier, Charles the
Bold in the church at Nesle. Relief by Chaponni^re. Right (Salle Cha-
roKNifeRE): Principal door of the baptistery at Florence by Ghiberti; an-
tiqne torso; Venus. Im/iof, Kve. Chnponniire: Greek captive, David, Bust
Jardin Alpin. GENEVA. 64. Route. 213
of V. V. Bonstetten (p. 218j. — The paintings are arranged in three rooms;
to the left, the Salle Liotard, with an adjoining cabinet, in the centre
the Salle Calame, and to the right, the Salle Didat. As the arrange-
ment of the pictures is frequently changed the more interesting are here
mentioned in the alphabetical order of the artists' names. — 1. Agasse,
At the smithy; 4. Af/asse <t- Topffe?; Horse-fair; 23. Bocion, Lake of Ge-
neva; 29. Louise Breslau, The friends; 30. Bwnand, Farm-yard; Alex-
andre Calame (of Vevav, 1810-64), '31. Thunder-storm on the Handegg;
32-35. The Seasons; 40'. Castrea, Counting the prisoners (1871); Corot, 46.
The Repose, 47. Ville d'Avray, 48. S. Trinita dei Monti at Rome. .50. Blont-
martre; 51. Coypel, Bacchus and Venus; Francois Didat/ (of Geneva,
1802-77), *62. Oaks in a storm, 63. Pissevache, 64. Giessbach; D'Jnvernois,
Sea-piece; 65. Burand, After the reviev?; *77. Duval, (In the upper Nile;
85. Fttret, Heron; 98. Gaud, Cider-Press; 93. Oirardet, Arab at prayer;
94. Giron, Education of Bacchus; 85. Graf-Reinhart, Interior of the cathedral
at Monreale; 96. Greuze, Child's head (a study); 97. Grosclaude, The vol-
unteer; 101. Guigon, The Pihone at Geneva; 104. Uibert, After the escal-
ade (p. 211); Hornung., *108. Catherine de' Medici before the head of Ad-
miral Coligny, 109. A captive; *116. Iltimbert, The ford; 121. Jeanmaire
Pine-forest; 123. Koller, Cattle; 115. Lairesse, Bacchanalian; 127, 12^. Largil-
liere. Portraits ; 132. Leleux, Interval of rest in the studio ; Liotard, 135,
141. Portraits of himself; *142. Madame d'Epinay, 143. Maria Theresa;
151^1. Lugardon, The Eiger; 147. /. L. Lugardon, Arnold von Melchthal;
231. Muyden, Pifferari; F. Poiirbtis. 177. Portrait, 178. Maria de' Medici;
*180. iJatJci, Drawing-lesson; i8i. Eobellaz, Betvi^een two fires; 183. Rigaud,
Elizabeth Charlotte, duchess of Orleans; Liopold Robert (of Chaux-de-
Fonds, 1794-1835), 187, 186. Italian and Bernese girls, 188. Sacristy of S. Gio-
vanni in Laterano at Rome; 219. Simon, The poacher; 210. Snyders, Dog
fighting vpith a heron; 217. Thuilier, Lake of Annecy; 220. Topffer, Leav-
ing church in winter; Velazquez, 239, 240. Philip IV. of Spain, and his
consort Maria Anna of Austria; 242. Jos. Vernei, Sea-piece; 245. Yuillemiet,
Portrait; 249. Ziegler, Marriage on board ship.
On the S.W. side of the Place Neuve is the Conservatoire de
Musique , erected in 1858 ; behind it is the handsome Eglise du
Sacre-Coeur. To the S. of this, between the Hue du Conseil-Ge-
neral and the Boulevard de Plainpalals , is the Bdtiment Electoral,
bearing the motto of Geneva, 'post tenebras lux' ; it contains a large
hall , used for exhibitions and concerts. — On the Boulevard <le
Plainpalais (PI. D, 6) is a Panorama, representing the siege of
Belfort, by Berne and Bellecour (adm. 1 fr.}. — Beyond the Plaine
de Plainpalais (drill-ground) on theArve are situated the Barracks
and the well-equipped Ecole de Me'decine. In the neighbourhood,
Chemin Dancet 2 (PI. A, 7), is the interesting Jardin Alpin
d'Acclimatation , with a rich collection of European and Asiatic
Alpine plants (for sale), open daily except Sun. (best time 8-10
a.m. and 5-8 p.m.). Annual subscription for members , 2 fr.
Director M. H. Correvon.
Tramways run from the Rond Point de Plainpalais (PI. A, B, 6)
to Carouge (p. 215). To the left, on a terrace above Carouge, on
the right bank of the Arve, is the favourite hydropathic establish-
ment of Champel-sur-Arve (p. 207). Higher up is the *Towr de
Champel, a view-tower commanding a splendid survey of the town,
tlie lake, and the Alps.
Keturning to the Place Neuve, we may now pass the Synagogue
(PI. B, 4 ; to the W.) and visit the Pont de la Coulouvreniere , the
211 Route 64. GENEVA. Musee de I'Ariana.
lowest of the bridges. IJelovv the bridge arc the new Waleriiwrks
(Forces Motrices du lihone), with large water-wheels driven by the
dammed-up water of the Rhone, which not only supply the houses of
Geneva but afford motive power equal to 4200 horses for the use
of manufactories. On the left, beyond the bridge, is the Promenade
St. Jean (PI. B, 3), with a bronze bust of James Fazy (d. 1878), the
Genevese statesman, by Holland. We next pass the Ecole d'Horlo-
gerie, with the Musee des Arts Decoratifs (adm. daily, except. Sat.,
11-4, Sun. 9-12), containing an important collection of engravings
and the models of the Brunswick Monument (p. 209), the Ecole des
Arts Industriels, and the simple and handsome old- Catholic church
of Notre-Bame, and soon reach the railway-station.
About 21/4 M. to the N.W. of the railway-station , at Varembe,
is the *Mtisee de I'Ariana, the property of M. Gust. Revilliod,
a handsome Renaissance building, adorned with busts of celebrated
artists and commanding a magnificent view of the laiie and the
Alps. (Adm. in summer on Tues., Thurs., and Frid. 1-5, gratis;
tickets at the hotels in Geneva.)
The imposing *Ve.stii!ule, with a double tier of marble columns,
contains a group of angels (in the centre) by Guglielmi , marble busts,
vases, etc. The Central Couridor is hung with tapestry representing
the history of Coustantine the Great, after Rubens \s designs; the ceiling-
paintings (the seasons , etc.) are by IJufour. To the left of the ball are
three Oriental Rooms, containing Asiatic porcelain, bronzes, inlaid
work, ivory carvings, and European faience ; to the right are Ibe collections
of European porcelain, Etruscan vases, aiticles from AUemannic graves,
etc. — First Floor. On the staircase is a Chinese boudoir, and at the top,
antique furniture, weapon.s , and stained glass. The Picture Gallerv
occupies four rooms on this floor. Boom I. : Portraits by Gvercino, Gior-
ffione, Holbein. Rigaud, Bronzino , and others; in the centre, a small an-
tique head of Venus. — Room II.: Copy after Qu. Maisj/s, Tax-gatherers;
.S'e6. del .Viombo ^ Bearing of the Cross; Ribera, John lhe Baptist; Lucas
van Lei/den, Madonna; Fiti, Boar-hunt; "Raphael., Madonna of Vallom-
brosa; Madonnas by L. Credi , Van Dych , and others. — Room III. con-
tains chiefly flower-pieces, studies of still-life, and other small examples
of the Netherlands school; marble busts of M. Eevilliod and his mother
by Dupliot. — Room IV.: Modern paintings. Lugardon, Matterhorn, Jung-
frau, Swiss Confederates at Riitli; Landscapes by Didaij , C'alame , and
Duval; Cattle-pieces by Humbert, Agasse, and Delarive; Genre-scenes by
Vautier , jt>. Durand , Rubio, Tiipffer, and others. — On the other side of
the large hall are paintings l)y Horace Revilliod; portraits, pastels, and
drawings by early Genevese masters; engravings (10,000 plates); a hand-
somely fitted library, with glass-cases containing interesting autographs;
glass, ivory carvings, antique Genevese tinware; and the Silver Chamber,
containing ornaments, coins, medals, enamels, etc.
Environs of Geneva. Both banks of the lake near Geneva arc
studded with villas ('campagncs'), with beautiful gardens, of which
a few may be mentioned here.
Right (W.) Bank. At Varembe, Mcculloch ('Chateau de ITmperatrice',
once occupied by the Empress .loscphine, and afterwards by Lola Mon-
tez) ; at Le Rivage, the Villa of the Countess Gaspavin ; at Pregny ( I4S(i'),
Baroness Adolf Rothschild (an imposing chateau; magnificent '-View of
Mont Blanc from the pavilion; admission usually on Tues. and Frid., 2-6,
by tickets, procured gratis at the hotels at Geneva). The road to it from
Geneva leads to the left by the station and passes under the railway, this
Environs. GENEVA. 64. Route. 215
being also the road to Ferney, which we follow past the Musee de TAriana
(p. 214) as far as a (1 M.) garden-pavilion, where a finger-post indicates the
way to (1 M.) Pregny to the right. Adjacent is the Campagne Favre-Riffand,
also commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc (always accessible).
Left (E.) Bank. At Les Faux- Vives is Favve de la Grange (a magnifi-
cent villa, containing the Parting of Venus and Adonis, an early work of
Canova). At Cologny, on the lake (see below) is the Villa Diodali (villa
of Lord Byron).
Walks. One of the finest walks in the environs is on the Right Bank,
passing Petit and Grand Saconnex, along the brow of the hill, command-
ing the lake and Mont Blanc, and down to (6 M.) Versoix (p. 217; back by
rail or steamer). — On the Left Bank: along the <l\ia.i des Eaux Vives,
planted with plane-trees, up the lake to (3 M.) Vesenaz {Inn. with garden
by the lake, \n La Belotte)\ return to (3'|2 M.) Geneva via Cologny [Chalet
Suisse; Cafi des Alpes). with a charming view of the lake, or farther
to the E. viii Ghougny, with a fine survey of Jlont Blanc.
The Bois de la Batie, at the confluence of the Khone and the Arve,
is reached from the Panorama (p. 207) in Vsl"". by descending to the Arve
Bridge (passing on the left the slaughter-houses and the cattle-market),
and ascending through the wood to the top of the hill, which affords a
fine survey of the town and environs. (Two cabarets.) The gray water of
the Arve and the blue water of the Elione fiow side by side for several
hundred yards below their conlluence (La Jonciion) without mixing. —
Adjoining the Bois is the new Cemetery of St. George (1400'). We may
now return to the town by the new Aroe Quay, passing the Ecole de Me'-
decine, the Jardin Alpin, the Barracks, and the Plaine de Pluiupalais.
Omnibuses (Y2 fr.) leave the Place Cornavin (near the station) every
hour for Ferney or Fernex ( Truite; II6t. de France)., 4V2 31. to the N. W. of
Geneva. The road leads by Saconnex (see above). A hill near Petit Saconnex
affords a charming view of Geneva, the lake, and Mont Blanc. We next
pass through Grand Saconnex, and reach Ferney. in French territory, a
place of which Voltaire may be regarded as the founder. He purchased
the land in 1759, attracted colonists, founded manufactories, and built
a chateau for himself, which, though much altered, still contains a few
rooms with reminiscences of the founder (adm. on week-days, 12-4). Fine
view from the garden-terrace.
A favourite excursion from Geneva is to the Saleve , a long hill of
limestone rock to the S. K. of the town. The N. end is called the Petit-
Salive (2950'), adjoining which are the Grand-Salkve (4290') and the Petit
and Grand Piton (4506'). The finest point of view is the Grand-Saleve
(Auberge des Treize Arbres), whence we survey the Mont Blanc chain,
the Lake of Geneva, the Jura, Ihe cantons of Geneva and Vaud, and
part of France.
The direct route to the Saleve leads by the (3'/4 M.) village of Veirier
(1400'), situated close to the French border, at the foot of the Saleve
(steam-tramway from the Place Molard via Florissant and Sicrne, in 20 min.,
50 c.1. From the terminus we keep straight on, pass under the railway
(p. 246), and ascend the steep but not difficult Pas de PEchelle to ("2 hr.)
Uonnetier (2333'; '/Jdt.-Pens. de la Reconnaissance; "H6t.-Pens. Trottct).
situated in the depression between the Petit and Grand-Saleve. In the
neighbourhood are the Balines de VErmitage, a number of grottoes offering
pretty views of the Lake of Geneva. From this point the Petit-SaUve is
ascended in 1/2 1""., the Grand-Saleve in iV2 hr., by a good bridle-path
(donkev 1 fr. per hr.). About '/4 li"'- lielow the summit is the Auberge
des Treize Avhres (3850'). — Another route to the Grand-Saleve (8 hrs.)
from Geneva is by (li/i M.) Carouge (120O' ; Balance; Feu de. Savoie). a
small town founded in 1780 by Victor Amadeus VII. of Savoy, who
attracted a number of Genevcse artisans hither by the oft'er of special
advantages. It has belonged to Geneva since 1815. By the tramway ter-
minus a finger-post indicates the road to Crevin to the left. Where the
road divides we always keep to the left till we reach the railwaj'-cmbank-
ment, under which we pass; we then ascend the Grande Gorge by a path
much damaged by floods in 1888, but now repaired.
216 Route 65. LAKE OF GENEVA.
The carriage-road from Geneva to Monnctier (carriage to Murncx 15-18,
to Monnetier 20-25 fr. ; or tramway to Annemcif^sc , p. 253, and tbenco by
omnibus) leads by Chine and Etremhih-cs to (7 M.) Mornex (]805'; "Bellcvue;
HOI. de Savoie; Pension Bain, in the old chateau, etc. J, a charming villa;ic
on the S. slope of the Petit -Saleve, visited as a health-resort (railway-
statiiin, p. 252). A good road ascends hence to (l'/2 M.) Monnetier.
The long range of the ' Voirons, to the N.E. of Geneva, commanding
a superb view of the Alps of Savoy, the Jura Bits., etc., is another favourite
point. Railway (Geneva and Eaux-Vivea Station, p. 205) via Annemasse
(p. 253) to (50 min.) Bons-St. Didier; thence a drive of 3 hrs., or a walk of
21/2 brs. to the summit. In summer omnibus from Bons St. Didier to the
top on three afternoons weekly (Mon., Wed. , Sat.) in 3 hrs. (4 fr., one-
horse carr. 10 fr.). On the E. slope, 100' below the summit, is the "H6tel
de VErmitage (pens. 6-8 fr.), in the midst of pine-wood, visited as a health
resort; and 10 min. below it is the unpretending II6t. du Chalet. Charming
walks to the (10 min.) pavilion on the Calvah-e ., or (,'rand Signal., the
highest point (4875') ; to the (20 min.) old monastery (459U') on the N.W.
slope; to the Crete d'Audoz, an eminence '/z ^^- to the S.W.; and to the
(1 hr.) Pralaire (4630'), the S. peak.
Ascent of the ''D6le from (jeneva bv the Col de la Faucille, l^/■^ hrs.,
see p. 218.
65. From Geneva to Martigny via Lausanne and
Villeneuve. Lake of Geneva (North Bank).
81 M. Railway in 43/4-6 hrs. (to Lausanne l'/2-2Vii to Vevey 21/4-
31/4 hrs.); fares 13 fr. 55, 9 fr. 50, 6 fr. 80 c. (to Lausanne 6 fr. 35, 4fr. 50, 3fr.
20c.; to Vevey 8fr. 35, 5 fr. 90, 4fr. 20c.). Return-tickets from Geneva to
St. Maurice, and from Bouveret to Brieg, are available for two days, and
may be used for the steamers, and vice versa.
Steamboats along the Nokthern Bank far preferable to the railway: to
Morges (4 fr., 1 f r. 70c.) in 21/2 hrs. ; to Ouchv (for Lausanne, 5fr., 2 fr.) in
3 hrs. ; to Vevey (6 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c.) in 31/2-4 hrs. ; to Villeneuve (71/2 fr.,
3fr.) in 4V2-4V4 hrs.; to Bouveret (71/2 fr., 3 fr.) in 43/4-5 hours. Return-
tickets for three days at a fare and a half, available also for returning by
railway, but not unless specially asked for. The cabin-tickets are available
for the second class only; if the holder desires to travel first class he may
obtain a supplementai-y ticket from the guard. Steamboat-.stations on the
N. bank (all with pier.s) : Bellevue , Versoix, Mies, Coppei, Ciligny , Nyon,
Rolle, St. Prex, Morges. St. Sulpice, Ouchy (Lausanne), Pully, Lutry, Cully,
Rivaz-St. Saphorin, Corsier (near the Grand Hotel de Vevey), Vevey-Marchi,
Yevey-La Tour, Clarens, Montreux-Vernex, Terrilet-Chillon, Villeneuve. The
express steamers leaving Geneva (Quai du Montblanc) at 9 a.m. and 1.25
p.m. touch at the following stations only: — Kyon, Thonon and Evian on
the S. bank, Ouchy, Vevey, Clarens, Montreux, Territet, Villeneuve, and
Bouveret. — Several steamboats also ply daily between the N. and S. banks
(Nyon-Nernier, Nyon-Thonon), and between Evian and Geneva. — Good
restaurants on board (D. 2'/2-3 fr.).
The *Lake of Geneva (1230'), Fr. Lac Leman, Ger. Genfer See,
the Lacus Lemunus of the Romans, is 45 M. in length, upwards of
8 M. broad between Morges and Amphion, and i^j.i M. between the
Pointe de Genthod and Bellerive ; 250' deep near Chillon , 940'
near Meillerie, HOC between Ouchy and Evian (deepest part), and
240' between Nyon and Geneva. The area is about 225 sq. M.,
being 15 sq. M. more than that of the Lake of Constance. In shape
the lake resembles a half moon, with the horns turned towards the
S. and this form is most distinctly observed from the Signal de
Bougy (p. 219). The E. horn formerly extended 9 M. farther to-
S* Jeaikj3Si^i^ii
sSflTf^**^
^
4 t^
,4 ^ iy* -» ^, 1 „„
^-3 J
/ -H"'
cs'
?^)^'^
VERSOIX. 65. Route. 217
wards Bex , but the deposits of the Khone have gradually filled up
this part of the lake, and are daily extending this alluvial tract.
The deep-blue Colouk of the Lake of Geneva differs from that of the
other Swiss lakes , which are all more or less of a greenish hue. This
blue tint was supposed by Sir Humphrey Davy (who lived some years at
Geneva , and died there in 1828) to be due to the presence of iodine,
but the cause of the phenomenon has never been actually ascertained.
The BiKDS which haunt the lake are wild swans (Cycnus olor), the de-
.scendants of tame birds introduced at Geneva in 1838, ^ulls (Larus ridi-
bundus), sea-swallows (Sterna hirundo), and numerous birds of passage,
such as ducks and divers. There are twenty-one different kinds of Fisii,
the most esteemed of which are the trout, the 'Ritter'', the 'Fiira' (C'ore-
goims; the 'Felchen'' of the Lake of Constance), and the perch.
The Vegetation of the banks partakes to some extent of a southern
character. Side by side grow the sweet and the wild chestnut-tree, the
magnolia, the trumpet-wood, the cedar of Lebanon, and trellised vines.
Figs and pomegranates are also of frequent occurrence, but only the former
reach maturity.
A phenomenon freq\iently observed on the Lake of Geneva, and some-
times on other lakes also, consists in the so-called 'Seiches', or fluctua-
tions in the level of the water, which within a few minutes rises or falls
several inches or even feet above or below its usual level. These seiches
are caused by any sudden alteration in the atmospheric pressure and most
commonly occur after storms, being in fact analogous to the ground-swell
of the ocean. The seiches longiludinales, or those running from one end
of the lake to the other, usually take about 73 min. to travel from Ville-
neuve to Geneva, while the seiches transversales cross from the Swiss to
the Savoy side in 10 minutes. The highest longitudinal swell on record
was observed at Geneva on 3rd Oct. 1841, measuring over G ft. in height,
while the transverse swell rarely exceeds 8 inches in height. (F. A.Forel.)
The Level of the lake is lowest at the end of winter, and highest in
summer during the melting of the snow on the Alps. The average dif-
ference between high and low water is about 5 ft., while the difference
between the highest (1817) and lowest (1830) recorded levels amounts to
nearly 9 ft. — The Tempek.^tuke of the lake varies from 45'' in winter
to 75° or even 85" in summer, while in the deeper parts it never rises
above 42-44°. The lake has never been known to freeze over entirely.
The Navigation is inconsiderable, but large barges of 300 tons' burden
are occasionally seen. The graceful lateen-sail used here, and rarely seen
elsewhere except on the Mediterranean, has a very picturesque appearance.
The lake has for centuries been a favourite theme with writers of all
countries — Byron, Voltaire, Rousseau, Al. Dumas, and many others.
On the N. side the deep-blue water is bounded by gently .sloping hills,
richly clothed with vineyards and orchards, and enlivened with numerous
smiling villages. To the E. and S. a noble background is formed by
the long chain of the mountains of Valais and Savoy, of which the
higher ground on the N. bank afl'ords a good survey ; but Mont Blanc
itself is visible from the W. bank only, from Geneva," Nyon, RoUe, and
particularly from Morges (p. 219).
Steamboat Journey (piers by the Jardin Anglais and the Quai
du Montblanc; comp. p. 205). The banks of the lake arc clothed
with rich vegetation and studded with charming villas. On the
left, the large Hotel National, the Musee de TAriana, and the
grandly-situated chateau of Pregny (p. 214) ; farther on, Genthod,
prettily situated , once the residence of the famous naturalists
Saussure, Ch. Bonnet, and Pictet de la Rive. The steamer stops at
Bdlevue.
Versoix (Lion (VOr), a considerable village (1358 inhab."), onoe
belonged to France. Choiseul, the minister of Louis XV., being
218 Route 65. NYON. From Geneva
hostile to Geneva, contemplated founding a rival city here, and tlio
streets were mapped out, but the design was afterwards abandoned.
Coppet (Croix Blanche; Ange; Hot. -Pens. duLac). The chateau,
now the property of M. d'Haussonville, was inhabited from 1790
till 1804 by Necker, a native of Geneva , who became a banker at
Paris and minister of finance to Louis XVI. His daughter, the cele-
brated Mme. de Stael (d. 1817), also resided at the chateau for
some years. Uer writing-table, her portrait by David, and a bust
of Necker are shown to visitors.
From Coppet (carr. at the station) a road leads by Commngny and
Chavannes de Bogis to (3V2 M.) Divonne (1543'; excellently lilted up hy-
dropathic estab.), charmingly situated beyond the French frontier in the
Pays de Qex (from Nyon 5 M., diligence in connection with the express
trains in 55 min. ; from Geneva 12 M., carr. in l'/' hr., with one horse 15-18,
with two horses 25 fr.). Ascent of the Dole from Divonne, see below.
Celigny Is prettily situated on a hill a little way inland. Farther
on Is the Chateau de Crans.
Nyon C^Beaurivage, with garden on the lake; *Ange, pens.
5-6 fr. ; Couronne ; Odelet) was the Colonia Julia Equestris, or Novio-
dunum, of the Romans (4170 inhab.). The ancient castle, with walls
10' thick, and five towers, built in the 12th cent. , and now the pro-
perty of the town, was once occupied by Victor v. Bonstetten(d. 1832),
the author, who was frequently visited here by eminent Swiss savants.
The terrace and the pleasant promenades of the upper part of the
town afford a beautiful view of the lake, the Jura, and the Alps,
with Mont Blanc. Several relics of the Roman period still exist here.
Ascent of the Dole, very interesting. A high-road (diligence) leads
from Nyon through the Jura by (1 hr.) Trelex^ (2 hrs.) St. Cergues, and
(2 hrs.) Les Bousses, a small French frontier fort, to (1 hr.) Aforez, a little
town in the French department of Jura. From Nyon on foot in 3 hrs.,
to St. Gergues (3432'; IlStel de la Paste; '-'Hot. -Pens. Capl; Pension Delaigue;
"Observatoire, a hotel and pension on a height, 5 min. from the post-office,
between the old chateau of St. Cergues and the Noir-Mont, with the finest
view), a large village and summer resort at the N.E. base of the Dole, two-
thirds of the way from the top. The traveller should drive from Nyon as far
as the beginning of the well-shaded old road, V/-2 M. beyond Trelex, which
follows the telegraph-wires , and ascends straiglit to St. Cergues (3 M.).
From St. Cergues (guide 5 fr., not indispensable) we ascend to the (1 hr.)
Chalet du Vouarne, and through the depre.'Jsion (La Porte) between the
Vouarne and the Dole, to the (1 hr.) top of the 'Dole (5505'), the highest
summit of the Swiss Jura. The view is picturesque and extensive, and
Mont Blanc is seen in all its majesty. — From Gingins, IV2 M. to the W. of
Trelex, a good road leads to the (7'/2 M-) Chalets de la Divonne, V2 hr. from
the top of the Dole. — Another leads by La Jiippe, 3^/4 M. from Celigny
(see above), and l'/2 M. from Divonne (see above), and before reaching
e/i M.) Vendome, enters the broad path (to the right) through the wood, which
after 3 31. joins the road from Gingcns. — The best route for pedestrians
from Geneva (7i/.j hrs. to tlic summit of the Dole) is by the Col de la
Faucille, a deep depression in tlie Jura chain, to the N.W. of Geneva.
We follow the carriage-road by Ferney to (3 hrs.) Gex (2120'; Hot. de la
Poste; Hot. du Commerce), a small French town, at the foot of the Jura;
thence we proceed to (I'/j l"".) the Fontaine NapoUon and the (3/4 hr.) Col
de la Faiicille (4355'; Jnn). We keep to the road (to Morez, see above) for
l'/4 hr. more, finally diverging to the right beyond the La Vasserode inn,
whence we ascend to the summit in l'/2 hr.
to Martigny. ROLLE. 65- Route. 219
Dilittciicp, fniiii Les Hoiisses (see p. 218) and Le Srassiis., to the Lac de
Juiix, Le Lieu, and Le Pont, a pleasant route (comp. p. 205).
Farther on , among trees , is the chateau of Pranyins, formerly
occupied by Joseph Bonaparte. A great part of the estate of La Ber-
gerie , or Chalet de Prangins, which once belonged to him, is now
the property of Prince Jerome Napole'on. The old chateau itself
now contains a Moravian school for boys.
On a promontory lies Promenthoux, and on the opposite (Savoyard)
bank, 3M. distant, Yvoire(jp. 239). The JuraMts. gradually recede.
The most conspicuous peaks are the Dole (p. 218), and to the right of
it the Noir-Mont (5118'). The lake forms a bay between the mouth
of the Promenthouse and the Aubonne (p. 228) beyond RoUe , and
here attains its greatest width. The banks of this bay, called La
Cote, yield one of the best Swiss white wines.
Rolle (*Tete Noire, plain, with garden; Couronne) , the birth-
place of the Russian general De laHarpe, tutor of Emp. Alexander I.,
and one of the most zealous advocates for the separation of Canton
Vaud from Bern (1798). An islet in the lake contains an Obelisk
to his memory.
On a vine-clad liill, 1 hr. fo the N. of Rolle, above the village oi Bougy,
is the 'Signal de Bougy (2910'), a famous point of view, which commands
the lake, the Savoy Jits., and Mont Blauc. The best way to it is from
Stat. Aubonne-Allaman (p. 228) by omnibus or on foot to (2V4 31.) Aubonne
(*Couronne), a very old and picturesque little town, with numerous gardens,
a beautiful avenue, and pleasant public grounds, and thence on foot to the
top in less than an hour. — About 5 M. to the W. of Aubonne, and
5V2 M. to the N. of Rolle, is Gimel (2395'; Union, pens, from 5 fr.), with
beautiful wood-walks, a favourite summer resort of the Genevese.
A road (diligence to St. Georges daily) leads from Kolle to the N.W.
by Gilly, Burtigntj, and Longirod to (9 M.) St. Georges (3067' ; Inn) and over
the (4 M.) Col de Marchairuz (47G7' ; Inn) to (41/2 31.) Le Brassus (p. 205).
On the way from St. Georges to the col, we enjoy charming and varying
views of the Lake of Geneva and the Rhone Valley down to the Fort de
TEcluse, and between the col and Le Brassus we overlook the Lac de Joux
and the Dent de Vaulion.
The bank of the lake between Rolle and Lausanne is somewhat
flat. On a promontory lies the village of St. Prex ; then, in a wide
bay. Merges (*H6t. du Port; *H6t. du Moniblanc ; Couronne), a
a busy little town (pop. 4052), with a harbour and an old chateau
now used as an arsenal. The medi£Eval chateau of Vufflens, on a
height at some distance to the N., is said to have been erected
by Queen Bertha (p. 203). From Morges we obtain a fine view of
Mont Blanc in clear weather through a valley on the S. bank. The
steamer next reaches the station of St. Sulpice, and then —
Ouchy (1230'), formerly called Rive, the port of Lausanne.
*IloTEr, BE.iunivAGE, with pleasant garden, baths, etc., R.., L., ife A. 5-7,
I), o, omnibus to the Lausanne station I'/^fr. ; '-llor. dWkgi.rteuue, R.,
L., & A. 31/2, B. li/i, D. 4 fr. ; *Il(Vr. du Pout, small; all on the lake.
Pens. r>u Chalet, Avenue Iloseneck. — Lal-c Baths, two cst.ablishuicnts,
one i/jM. to the W.. the other Vi M- <" "le K. of the landing-place; bath
80 c, including towels, etc. — Boat GO c. per hour, or with boatman I'/af'".
The Railway Station of the Western line (p. 228) is 3/i M. from
Ouchy, and Lausanne lies fully '/4 M. higher. Cable Railway (commonly
220 Route 65. LAUSANNE. From Geneva
called Ficelle) from Ouchy to Lausanne in 9 min. (Station at Ouchy ncir
the steamboat quay ; station at Lausanne, called 'Gare du Flon', under the
Grand-I'ont •, 42 trains daily; fare 50 or 25 c., return-ticket 80 or 40 c;
intermediate stations Jordils and St. Luce, the latter near the station of
the W. railway; see p. 219; to the left the trains to Lausanne 10 c, to
the right to Ouchy, 20 c). — Porterage of small articles to or from the
steamer 10c. , trunk 20c., if over lOOlbs. 30c.
Lausanne. — 'IIotel Gibbon (PI. a ; F, 4), opposite the post-office, R.,
L., & A. 4-fi, B. I'/'j. lunch S'/a, !>• 5 fr. ; in the garden behind the dining-
room the historian Gibbon wrote the concluding portion of his great work
in 1787. *H6t. Riche-Mont (PI. b ; I), E, 5), with pleasant grounds, D. 4'/2 fr. ;
*Faucon (PI. c ; F, 3), R., L., & A. 4, B. IV2, D- 4, pens, from 6 fr. ; "Hot. vv
Grand Pont (PI. d;E,4), near the bridge, R.,L.,&A. 32/4, B. I1/4, D. 3V'jfr. ;
*H6t.-Pens. Beau-Site (PI. e; D, 4), R., L., & A. 31/2, D. 3, B. IV4 fr.; 'Hot.-
Pens. Victoeia , Avenue de Rumine; '-Hot. dd Noiid (PI. f; F, 3, 4),
Rue St. Pierre, with restaurant, R., L., & A. 3, B. I'/i, D. 3 fr.; Hotel
Bellevue; Hot. des Messageries, Place St. Francois 4 ; Hot. de la Poste,
Petit Chene 4. — Pensions: Beavs^Jour, Mme. liitschard CVill&sMeTcieTS),
Mme. Me7-canton, Rue du Midi 4 (monthly 100 fr.), Chatelanat, Monnard,
Pavarin, Pigiiel-Bauty, Campari, and many others. — Restaurants : II6lel
du Nord, Hotel du Grand Pont, see above; Restaur, du Thiatre (see below);
Deriaz, Place St. Laurent ; Rail. Restaurant, D. 2V2 fr. ; Cafe Vaudois, Place
Riponne 3; Gamhrinus (beer), Rue Haldimand, near the Place de la Kiponne;
Bavaria, Rue St Pierre. — Theatre (PI. f; open in winter only), Avenue
du Theatre (with cafe).
Omnibus from the station into the town 1 fr. ; to the steamboat at
Ouchy, only if ordered (railway, see above). — Cab to the station 2fr. —
Railway from Lausanne to the station and Ouchy, see above. — Bookseller,
with lending library, etc., Benda, Rue Centrale 3. Th. Roussy, Rue de
Bourg. — Pianos, music: E. R. Spies, Gr. Chene 5.
English Ciiukcii, Avenue de Grancy. Scottish Free Church, Rue Ru-
mine. Wesleyan Clinrch. Rue du Valentin, Place de la Riponne.
Lausanne (1690'; pop. 33,316), the Lausonium of the Romans,
now the capital of the Canton de Vaud, occupies a beautiful and
commanding situation on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, over-
shadowed by its cathedral on one side, and its castle on the other.
The interior of the town is less prepossessing. The streets are hilly
and irregular, and the houses in the older part are poor ; but the
new quarters contain a number of handsome houses. The two
quarters are connected by the handsome Grand-Pont (135 yds. long),
erected in 1839-44, also named Pont Pichard after its builder. The
valley of the Flon, spanned by the bridge, has been largely filled
up and cultivated. The nearly level street, passing the castle and
cathedral, constructed by Pichard, skirts the town and leads under
the castle to the N. by a tunnel, 50 paces long. Lausanne possesses
many excellent schools.
The ^Cathedral (PI. E, 2 ; Prot.), erected in 1235-75, and con-
secrated by Gregory X. in presence of Rudolph ofHapsburg, is a
simple but massive Gothic edifice. In 1875-87 it was judiciously
restored from plans by VioUei-le-Duc (d. 1879). The terrace on
which it stands is approached from the market-place (Place de la
Palud) by a flight of 160 steps. The sacristan (marguillier) lives to
the left (N.) of the principal entrance, Rue Cite-Devant 5.
The Interior (352' long, 1,50' wide) is remarkable for its symmetry
of proportion. The vaulting of the nave, 66' in height, is supported by
CoUine
1^ lalliaiji U •, himein--. Triiu-'.e leBo^atier '
tlU IIS
Grave et imprune par
Wagner g,"Debes ."Leipzig
to Martigny. LAUSANNE. 65. Route. 221
20 clustered columns of different designs. Above the graceful triforium
runs another arcade, which serves as a framework for the windows. The
choir contains a semicircular colonnade. In the arcades of the choir-ambula-
tory appears an ancient form of pilaster, a relic of the Burgundian-
Romanesque style. The beautiful but sadly damaged rose-window and the
sculptured poi-tals also merit inspection. (The W. portal is in a ruinous
condition; the S. portal was restored in 1884.) Above the centre of the
church rises a slender tower (245'), erected in 1874. The finest Monuments
are those of Otto of Grandson who fell in 1398 in a judicial duel with
Gerard von Estavayer (hands on the cushion, a symbol of the ban;
statue accidentally deprived of its hands) ; Bishop Guillaume de Men-
thonex (d. 1406) ; the Russian Princess Orloff (d. 1782) ; the Duchess Caro-
line of Courland (d. 1783) ; Henrietta Stratford-Canning (d. 1818), first wife
of Lord Stratford de Redclift'e, then ambassador in Switzerland (by Barto-
lini) ; Countess Wallmoden Gimborn (d. 1783), mother of the Baroness of
Stein, the wife of the celebrated Prussian minister. A tablet on the wall
of the N. transept near these monuments bears the inscription : M la me-
moire du major Davel, mort sur Vechafaiid en 1723, le 24 avril, martyr des
droits et de la liberty du peuple vaudois^, a tribute paid to his memory by
Gen. De la Harpe (p. 219), who effected that for attempting which Davel
was beheaded as a traitor. — In 1536 a famous Disputation took place in
this church, in which Calvin, Farel, and Viret participated, and which
resulted in the removal of the episcopal see to Freiburg, the separation
of Vaud from the Romish Church, and the overthrow of the supremacy of
Savoy.
The Terrace (1735'), fornierly the chiirchyard, commands the town,
the lake, and the Alps of Savoy ; and the prospect is more extensive
from the top of the tower, 162' high. The view from the terrace of
the old episcopal Palace (^Eviche; now a law-court), higher up, is
also very fine.
The Canton.^l Museum (PI. E, 2; Wed. and Sat. 10-4, Sun.
11-2 o'clock), in the College near the cathedral, contains natural
history collections, a valuable collection of freshwater conchylia,
presented by M. de Charpentier (d. 1855), relics from Aventicum
(p. 203) and Vidy , the ancient Lausanne , and interesting Celtic
antiquities from lake-dwellings, coins, medals, etc. The same build-
ing contains the Cantonal Library (60,000 vols.).
The MusEE Arlauu (PL D, 3; Sun., 11-2, Wed. and Sat. 10-4;
at other times, 1 fr.), founded by an artist of that name in 1846, in
a building in the Riponne opposite the corn-hall (Grenette), con-
tains a small picture gallery.
Among the most interesting paintings [are: Domenichino, Joseph's
Dream; Caracci , Joseph cast into the pit. — Modern paintings: Anker,
Xew-born child: Bocion, Tug-steamer; Bitrnand, Village on fire; Calame,
Lake of Brienz ; Diday, Rusenlaui, Fall of the Reichenbach; Girardet, Re-
turn from the mountain-pasture; Gleyre. Execution of Major Davel (see
above), Battle on the Lake of Geneva, Adam and Eve, Divico's victory
over the Romans, etc.; Jouvtnet, Healing of the leper; Koller, Cattle-pond;
Miiyden, Hide-and-seek; Vaiitier, Sabbath morning; etc.
On the MoNTEENON, a hill immediately to the W. of the town,
planted with fine avenues, and affording a charming view of the
lake, is situated the handsome new Palais de Justice Federal, or su-
preme court of appeal for the whole of Switzerland.
The admirably organised Blind Asylum (Asile des Aveugles),
to the W. of the town (PI. A, 3), was founded by Mr. Haldimand
222 Route G5. VEVF.Y. From Geneva
(d. 1862), who amassed a fortune in England, and Miss Ce.rjat. —
In the Champ de I'Air. to the N.E., the liighest point in the town,
are the well-arranged LIoi-ital Cantonal (250 beds), a Slation Viti-
cole (\ine-growing) and Meteoroloyique, and an Ecole iV Agriculture.
— At Cerij, 2 M. to the N., on the line to Echallens (see below),
is the handsome Lunatic Asylum, one of the largest and best on
the continent, containing a chapel, concert-room, etc.
The Signal (2126'), ','2 hr. above the town, is a famous point of view.
From the post-office to the castle •/< ^^- '1 then cross the tunnel-bridge and
follow the road to the left for about 100 paces ; ascend to the right by a
paved path, and thence by a flight of steps on the left to the carriage-road ;
follow this to the right till the hut with the trigonometrical pyramid and
grounds are seen on the right. (This point may also be reached by a broad
path diverging from the road to the right.) The view embraces a great part
of the lake. Slont Blanc is not visible from this point, but is seen from
the Grandes Roches (1/2 hr. from the town, to the right of the Yverdon road),
another charming point of view. — The best way back from the Signal is
through the wooded valley of the Flon, on the E. side of the hill, and
then by the Eue des Eau.x to the point whence we started at the N. base
of the castle. This route is preferable for the ascent also in hot weather.
Cab from the town to the Signal, and thence to the station, 5 fr.
From Lausanne to Echallens, 8^/4 JI., a local narrow-gauge railway
(55 min.). The lunatic asylum mentioned above is near (2 M.) Jouxiens-
Ceru, the second station. 8^4 M. Echallens (2004' ; 1079 inhab. ; 'Balances)
is a thriving little town, with an old castle now used as a boys' school.
The slopes rising to the E. of Lausanne are named La Vaux, and
yield good wine. The vineyards are tended with the utmost care.
Above the station of Fully on the hillside , is the lofty viaduct
crossing the Paudtze (p. 202), below which is the bridge of the
S.W. Railway (p. 228); above Lutry is the viaduct near La Conver-
sion, mentioned at p. 202. The amphitheatre of mountains becomes
grander as the steamboat advances : the Rochers de Verraux, Dent
de Jaman, Rochers de Naye, Tour d'Ai', Tour de Mayen, Dent de
Morcles, and Dent duMidi; between these, to the S., Mont Ca-
togne, and in the background the snowy pyramid of Mt. Velan.
Stations : CulUj and Rivaz-St. Saphorin,
Vevey, Ger. Vivis, the Vibiscus of the Romans.
Steamboat Piers: (1) Corsier, to the W., near the Grand Hotel de
Vevey; (2) Vevey-MarcM, at the town itself; (3) 7evey-La Tour, to theE.,
near the Grand Hotel du Lac.
Railway Station on the N. side of the town, on the left bank of the
Veveyse. For excursions to theE. (Montreux, etc.) the station of ia Tour
de Peilz (p. 224) is more convenient.
Hotels. *Gkand Hot. de Vevet, at Corsier, to the W. of the town, with
lift, large grounds, swimming and other baths; *H6tel Monnet (des Trots
Couronnes) ; 'Gkand Hot. on Lac, to the E. of Monnet's; these three hotels,
all on the lake, are large and comfortable: K., L., & A. from 5, D. 5 fr. ;
pension from 15th Oct. to 1st May. To the E. of the town, *H6t. Moosek
(p. 224). — -Bot.-Pens. d'Angleterke (R., L., & A. 3'/2, D. 3, pens. 51/2-
7 fr.) and *H6t. du LiSman, also on the lake ; "Trois Rois, moderate, not
far from the station, R. & A. 2'/2, B. i, D. 3 fr. ; "Hotel du Pont, at the
station, with garden ; 'Hotel de la Poste, Rue du Casino, for single
gentlemen. — Pensions, see p. 224.
Cafes. Ca/i du Lac, Bellevue, des Alpes; all on the quay; Ca/i du
Thidlre; Brasserie Traffle. — Coindet, dealer in preserved meats, etc.. Rue
des Deux Marches.
to Marligny. VEVEY. «5. noute. 223
Lake Baths at the E. end of the town (6-Sa.m. and 2-5 p.m. for ladies only).
Post and Telegraph Office, Place de TAncien Port. — Bankers : Geo,
Glas, Kue du Le'man ; A. Vuinod C/airc/iill, Place dii Marche 21.
Omnibus from the station to the hotels 20, box 10 c. ; to La Tour de
I'eilz 30, box 15 c. ; to Chexbres from the post-office 1 fr. (see p. 202). —
Cab with one horse, per drive in the town V/2, with two horses 2fr. ;
',■_■ hr. I'/j or 2 fr., 1 hr. 3 or 4 fr., for every '•» hr. more 1 or I'/s fr. —
Electric Tramway from the Grand Hotel de Vevey to C'hillon every
40 min. from 6.30 a.m., in 59 min. (fare 20-50 c). Stations: Vevey-Gare^
Hotel du Lac, Villa Thamine, Maladeyre, Clareus, Verneij, Kuvsaal, Terrilel,
and Chillon.
Kowing-boats at the quay and the Grande Place, 1 fr. per hr.; with
one rower 2, with two rowers 3fr. ; to Chillon 6 or 10 fr.; to St. Gingolph
(p. 240) same charges; to Jleillerie (p. 240) 12 or 15 fr.
Bookseller. Beiida, Hotel Monnet (also music, etc.). Pianos at Hatzen-
herger^s (also at Montreux and Bex). — Theatre, Rue des Anciens Fosse's.
English Church at the E. end of the town.
Vevey (1263'), charmingly situated at the influx of the Veveyse,
with 7939 inhab., is the second town in the Canton deVaud, and owes
much of its repute to the writings of Rousseau. The small terrace by
the market (Grande Place), the quay, and the new turreted Chateau
ofM. Couvreu (beautiful garden with exotic plants, fee 1 fr.) overlook
a great part of the scene of the ^Nouvelle Helo'ise', the 'burning
pages' of which accurately describe it. To the E. La Tour de Peilz,
Clarens, Montreux, and Chillon are visible ; next. Villeneuve and
the mouth of the Rhone; in the background the Alps of the Valais,
the jagged, snow-covered Dent du Midi , Mont Velan, arid Mont
Catogne (the 'Sugar-loaf); on the S. bank of the lake, the rocks of
Meillerie, overshadowed by the Dent d'Oche ; and to the left, at the
foot of the Grammont, St. Gingolph (p. 240). Tlie Quai Sina affords
a beautiful walk, sheltered from the N. wind. Near the station is
the *Russian Chapel with its gilded dome, nearly opposite which is
the EcoledesJeunes FiUes. At the E. end of the town are the pretty
Roman Catholic Church and the English Church.
The Church of St. Martin, erected in 1498, on a vine-clad
hill (^Terrasse du Panorama') outside the town, surrounded by lime
and chestnut-trees, commands a charming view (see the 'Indicaleur
des Montagues'^. Service in summer only.
In this church repose the remains of the regicides Ludlow Cpoieslalis
arbitrariae oppugnator acerri7nus\ as the marble tablet records) and Brough-
ton. The latter read the sentence to King Charles {^digiiatiis fuit senleii-
liam regis regum profari, quam ob causam expulsus patria siia^ is the in-
scription on his monument). On the restoration of Charles II., that monarch
demanded the extradition of the refugees, a request with which the Swiss
government firmly refused to comply. Ludlow's House, which stood at the
E. end of the town, has been removed to make way for an addition to the
Hotel du Lac. The original inscription chosen by himself, '■Omne solum forli
patria\ was purchased and removed by one of his descendants. A new
memorial tablet was erected in 1887 at the E. end of the quay.
The tower among the trees on the lake farther on, the Tour de
Peilz (Turris Peliana), said to have been built by Peter of Savoy in
the 13th cent., was once the seat of a court of justice, and was
afterwards used as a prison. The neighbouring chateau of M. Rignud
contains a collection of ancient weapons.
224 Route 65. CLARENS. From Geneva
The chateau of Hauteville, 2 M. to the N.E. of Vevey, with an
admirably kept park, commands a beautiful view from the terrace and
the temple. In the same direction, 2 M. higher, is the mediaeval chateau
of Blonay, which has belonged the family of that name for centuries. The
road from Hauteville to Blonay passes through the villages of St. Mgier
(Pens. BL'guin ; Pens, des Alpcs) and La C/iiesaz, many houses in which
are adorned with clever sketches by A. Be'guin, a native of the place, now
an artist in Paris. In returning , we may descend by a path to the right
beyond the bridge to the carriage-road below, which leads to (1 BI.) ChaiUy
(see below), (1 M.) the bridge of Tavel, below the C/idleau des Creles (see
below), and (V4 M.) the Clarens station. — About 1 hr. to the N.E. of
Blonay are the Pleiades (4488'), a famous point of view (auberge near the
top), at the E. base of which, s/i hr. from the top, are the small sulphur-
baths of VAlliaz (3428'; pens. 4-5 fr.).
From Vevey to Freiburg, see R. 61 ; over the Jaman to Montbovon,
p. 236. — Pleasant excursion to St. Gingolph (p. 240; I'/a hr. by boat), on
foot to Novel., in the valley of the Jlorge, and thence to the top of the
Dlanchard (p. 240). Inns at St. Gingolph and Novel very poor; the trav-
eller should bring provisions from Vevey.
On the lake, 31/2 M. from Vevey, lies the beautiful village of
Clarens [English Church Service in winter), immortaIi.sed by
Rousseau. On a height to the W. rises the ^Chateau des Cretes,
a favourite summer resort of Gambetta, with its pleasant grounds,
and a beautiful view from the terrace (visitors admitted). Ad-
joining it is a chestnut copse , called the 'Bosquet de Julie'.
Rousseau's 'Bosquet', however, has long since disappeared, having
been, according to Lord Byron, uprooted by the monks of St. Bernard
to make way for their vineyards. Splendid view from above Clarens,
near the churchyard , and also from the terrace of the chateau of
Chdtelard (at Tavel, 1/4 hr. to the N.), which gives its name to the
W. part of Montreux (p. 225). Between Clarens and Vernex is the
new German Protestant Church, with its slender tower. Near the
station is the imposing Ecole Primaire.
Pensions (p. xviii) abound on this favourite S.E. bay of the Lake of
Geneva. The best-known are here mentioned in their order from Vevey.
Charges often raised in the busy season.
At Vevey: H6t.-Pens. du C/idieau (6-8 fr.), to the E. of the Hotel Mon-
net, with a large shady garden and a view of the lake; Pens, du Lac; du
Panorama, at the back of the town (41/2 fr.), recommended to ladies; ' JIdtel
et Pens. Moosev , at Chemenin, 10 min. above Vevey, charming view (6-
10 fr.). At St. Legier: Pens. Biguin ; "Des Alpes. — At La Tour de Peilz,
near Vevey: "Pens. Comte; des Alpes; Riant-Site; Mon Disir.
Near Clarens, 'au Basset' : "Pens. Ketterer, sheltered, G-8 fr. This is
the beginning of the region which, being sheltered from the 'Bise' or bitter
N. wind, is often recommended to persons with delicate lungs as a winter
residence. The gay cluster of 22 villas near Clarens was built and fitted
up by M. Dubochct of Paris (d. 1877), at a cost of 2V2 million francs.
They now belong to Mde. Arnaud, and are let furnished for 3 months or
upwards at rents varying from 4000 to 8,000 fr. per annum (apply to the
'regisseur', at Villa No. 6). — At Clarens: on the left, Beausite; on the
right, "Pens. Verle-Rive (5-7 fr.); on the left. Pens. Moser (5 fr.) ; on the
right, "Hotel Roth, with a garden on the lake. At the station: "Hot.-Pens.
des Cretes (5-6 ir.);" Hot.- Pens, du Chdtelard or Marmier (6 fr. ; good cuisine).
— At Chaii.lt (1.580'), 1 M. above the Clarens station, and about 300' above
the lake, "Pens. Miiry, with pleasant garden. At Brent, I'/s M. above ChaiUy,
Pens. Du/ow (small and quiet). At Charnex, I1/2 M. above Clarens, Pens.
Dii/oiir-Cochard (5 fr.; well spoken of). — Between Clarens and Vernex (all
on the lake>: ''Hotel Roy, with pleasant garden; "Pens. Germann; Clarentzia ;
to Marligny. MONTKEUX. 65. Route. 225
I'dis. ii«cAeij«« (5-8 fr.), opposite the new Gotliic Knglish Chiircli; 'Loriiis
(three houses; 6 fr. and upwards), with line (garden.
At Montreux-Vernex : On the left, "Cpgne, R. & A. S'/z, B. IVz, !'• 4,
pens. 6-8 fr.; 'Pens. Pilivet; on the right, *i/on?;e.v (5V2-8V2fr.); 'Seati-Sejour
au Lac (adjoining which is a batli-house) ; Bon-Accueil; all on the lake;
-Ilot.-Pens. Suisse (5'/2 fr.), on the opposite side of the road, with a garden
on the lake; Beaulieu. At the station, IlCi.-Pens. Bellevue (5Vi-8 fr.) ; Hdlel
Victoria; H6tel de la Gare; H6tel de la Paste; Pens. Buret. By the steam-
boat-pier, Hdt. -Restaurant Toiihalle, for single gentlemen, moderate. The
charge for the Kursaal, which usually appears in hotel-bills at Montreux.
need be paid by those only who visit the establishment. — Preserved
meats, etc., sold by Miautis. Beer at the Tonhalle and at MargueCs ;
Pschorrbrciti, near the Kursaal. — Bazaar Wanner., with a good and varied
stock. — Strangers' Enquiry Office at the College (ground-IIoor, to the right).
— Schmidt^ chemist. — Booksellers: Benda; Meyer, at Clarens. Reading-
rooms at Benda^s and Gottslebens.
In BoxpOKT, on the Territet road (where the Kursaal is on the right,
see below; adm. 1 fr. ; weekly subscription 3, monthly 10, quarterly 20fr.),
on the lake, farther to the S.E. : on the left, 'Hdt. de Paris; on the right,
'Hol.-Pens. des Palmiers; on the left, ''Hdtel National, with a terrace high
above the lake, and a new 'dependance'' on the right side of the road,
7-lOfr. On the right, '■ Hdt.-Pens. Beati-Rivage (Spickiier), 'Hot.-Pens. Breuer,
both with gardens on the lake ; "Pens. Bonport. The four last, ■/-' M. from the
station, command a fine view. — In the Village of Moktreux, '/a M. from
the lake and the station: -Pens. Visinand, the oldest in Montreux; "Pens.
Brum- Afonnet (^ioTmerlj Pens. Mooser; 5-6 fr.), Biensis, a,ni 'Vautier (7-8 fr.),
all with a fine view.
At Territet (to the E. of stat. Territet-Glion) ; "Hdtel des Alpes el
Grand Hotel (pens. 7-12 fr.), an extensive establishment with handsome
rooms, cold-water cure, and terraced grounds on the lake, with a fine view;
dependance in the garden, with suites of apartments for families. "Hdtel
Mont-Fleuri, finely situated, with grounds (pens. 6-8 fr.). — Hdtel du Lac,
small; "Hdtel d^Angleterre ; Pens. Mounoud (5-6 fr.); "Pens. Bound.
At Veytaux: "Hdtel Bonivard, R., L., & A. from 3fr. ; "Masson (5-7 fr.),
adjoined by a villa with furnished rooms ; Villa Clos-de-Grandchamp ; Pens.
Chillon, near the castle. — Between Chillon and Villeneuve, the hand-
some "Hdtel Byron, (6-9 fr.), finely situated (omnibus from the Villeneuve
station, p. 228).
At Glion (2254'; cable tramway, see p. 226) : "Hdtel Mighi-Vatidois (pens.
8-12 fr.); "Hdtel Victoria (8'/2-10 fr.), beautifully situated; "Hdtel du Midi,
Hdtel de Glion and others, about 5 fr., generally closed in winter.
Most of these pensions receive passing travellers at hotel-charges, but
in autumn they are generally full. At many other houses rooms with or
without board may also be obtained. The Gkape Cdke begins towards
the end of September and lasts about a month. — Aigle (p. 229) and Bex
(p. 230) are also pleasant resorts in early summer and in autumn. In
the height of summer, when the heat on the lake and in the valley of
the Rhone becomes overpowering, the pensions at Chateau d^Oex (p. 237),
Ormont-Dessus (p. 233), Villars i\). 22Q), etc., are miich frequented. Similar
pensions at Geneva, see p. 206.
Clarens, Charnex , Vernex, Glion, Colony es , Veytaur, and tlio
otlier villages which lie scattered about, partly on tlie lake and
partly on the hill-side, are collectively called Montreux. This
district is divided into three parts, Chdtelard, Les Planches, and
Veyteaux, by the brook (Bale) of Montreux and the Veraye. The
central point of the district is the village of Montreu.t-Veri^ex, on
the lake, with a railway-station and steamboat-pier. About 1/4 M.
from the S. end of it is the Kursaal, with pleasant grounds (adm.
see above) ; opposite is the new Roman Catholic Church, in the
Baedkkbk, Switzerland. i3th Edition. ly
226 Route 65. CHILLON. From Geneva
Romanesque style. About 1/2 M. higher up, at the foot of the moun-
tain, lies the village of Montreux, divided into Sdles, to the W.,
and Les Planches, to the E., by the Baie de Montreux, which de-
scends from the Gorge du Chaudron (see below) and is here span-
ned by the haLndsome*Pont de Montreux, 100' in height. Immediately
above Les Planches rises the quaint old Parish Church (recently re-
stored), the shady terrace in front of which commands a superb and
far-famed *View of the lake (mountain indicator).
ExcDRSioNS FROM JIoNTREDX (electric tramway from Chillon to Vevcy,
see p. 223). To Glion (22540, loftily situated at the back ot Montreux, with
a beautiful view of the lake, a cable-tramway ascends in 7 min., starting
from the Territet-Glion station on the Western Eailway (21 trains daily ;
fare 1, return-ticket IV2 fr.). The line, constructed by Hr. Riggenbach
on the same system as the Giessbach tramway , but much steeper, is
about 750 yds. long, the maximum gradient being 1 : P't. At the top is
the Buffet (view). Adjacent is the garden of the Hotel Righi-Vaudois (see
p. 225), which commands a delightful survey of the upper end of the Lake
of Geneva and the mountains enclosing it, with the snow-clad Dent du
Midi in the centre. The garden of the Villa Nestle is worth seeing (visi-
tors admitted). Pleasant way back through the Gorge du Chaudron (see
below) to the village of Montreux in 1 hr. (enquire for beginning of path).
From Glion the Mont Canx (3937') may be ascended in I'A hr. — To the
■Gorge du Chaudron, a wooded ravine between Glion and Somier, watered
by the Baie de Montreux (see above). From the bridge of Montreux to the
gorge, and back, 1 hr., or returning by Glion 2 hours. The path enters
the gorge from near the Tens. Vautier at Les Planches. — From Chillon by
Champ Babau to (1 hr.) Veytaux (p. 225). — -Rochers de Naye (6706'j,
the S. neighbour of the Jaman ; ascent 4-5, descent 3 hrs. ; view embracing
the Bernese range, the Valais, and Savoy ; Mont Blanc only partially vis-
ible (good panorama by Imfeld). Easiest ascent by Glion, Mont Caiix, and
Chamosallaz (auberge in the lower and in the upper chalet) ; another tr;ick
over the wooded ridge of Mont Sonchaud (guide desirable); a third from
Les Avants (3V2 hrs., see below). — Les Avants (.3230'; -'Hotel des Avnnts,
pens, in summer 6-12 fr., in winter 6-10 fr.), a charmingly situated health-
resort for both summer and winter, lies 1'/^ hr's. drive from Montreux via
Charnex and Chaulin (omnibus from April 15th to Oct. 15th, from Mon-
treux railway station at 9 a.m., in I'A hr., returning at 4 p.m. in ■V4 hr. ;
fares, up 3, down 2, return-ticket 4 fr. ; carriage with one horse 12, with
two horses 18 fr.). Les Avants may be reached on foot from Montreux via
Somier in IV2 hr., or from Glion via the Gorce du Chaudron in l^/i hr.
From Les Avants to the top of Mont Cubli (3525'), with charming view,
Ihr.; Bent de Jaman (616.5'), via the Col de Jaman (p. 236), 2V2hrs.; Ro-
chers de Naye (see above), S'/z hrs. ; Col de Jaman (road under construction ;
see p. 236), etc. — Bv Charnex and Chaulin to the Bains de VAlliaz and
the PUiades (4488'), re"turning by Blonaij (p. 223), 8 hrs. — By Aigle to the
Ormonis, see R. 66. — To Villars, see p. 229. — To the Pissevache and
Gorges du Trient (p. 231) by railway, and back, in one day.
Stat. Territet-Chillon (*H6t. des Alpes, etc. ; see p. 225"). The
*Ca8tle of Chillon, with its massive walls and towers, ^/^ M. from
the pier (3/4 M. from stat. Territet-Glion ; 1/4 M. from stat. Vey-
taux-Chillon), stands on an isolated rock 22 yds. from the bank,
with which It is connected by a bridge, but the strait is now dry.
'Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place.
And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod.
Until his very steps have left a trace.
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod.
By Bonivard ! — may none those marks efface.
For they appeal from tyranny to God.'
to Martigny. VILLENEUVE. 65. Route. 227
The author of these beautiful lines has invested this spot with
much of the interest which attaches to it, but it is an error to identify
Bonivard, the victim to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and confined by
him in these gloomy dungeons for six years , with Byron's 'Prisoner of
Chillon' (composed by him in the Anchor Inn at Ouchy in 1817). The author
calls his poem a fable, and when he composed it he was not aware of the
history of Bonivard , or he would, as he himself states, have attempted to
dignify the subject by an endeavour to celebrate his courage and virtue.
Francis Bonivard was born in 1496. He was the son of Louis Bonivard, Lord
of Lune, and at the age of sixteen inherited from his uncle the rich priory
of St. Victor , close to the walls of Geneva. The Duke of Savoy having at-
tacked the republic of Geneva, Bonivard warmly espoused its cause, and
thereby incurred the relentless hostility of the Duke , who caused him to
be seized and imprisoned in the castle of Grolee, where he remained two
years. On regaining his liberty he returned to his priory , but in 1528 he
was again in arms against those who had seized his ecclesiastical revenues.
The city of Geneva supplied'him with munitions of war, in return for which
Bonivard parted with his birthright, the revenues of which were applied by
the Genevese to the support of the city hospital. He was afterwards em-
ployed in the service of the republic, but in 1530 when travelling between
Moudon and Lausanne fell into the power of his old enemy, the Duke of
Savoy, who confined him in the castle of Chillon. In 1536 he was liberated
by the Bernese and Genevese forces under Nogelin, and returning to the
republic, he spent the rest of his life as a highly respected citizen. He died
in 1570 at the age of 74 years.
Above the entrance (adm. 1 fr.) are the arms of the Canton de
Vaud. The rooms with their old wooden ceilings, the dungeons with
their pillars and arches, and the other reminiscences of the time of
the dukes of Savoy are interesting. A fine effect is produced by
the beams of the setting sun streaming through the narrow loopholes
into these sombre precincts. Among the names on the pillars are
those of Byron, Eugene Sue, George Sand, and Victor Hugo.
It is an historical fact that in 830 Louis le Debonnaire imprisoned
the Abbot Wala of Corvey, who had instigated his sons to rebellion, in
a castle from which only the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman were visible
(Periz, Monum. U. p. 556); this could have been no other than the
t'astle of Chillon. Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle
in the 13th cent., and it now stands much as he left it. The strong
pillars in the vaults are in the early-Romanesque style, and belonged to the
original edifice. The Counts of .Savoy frequently resided in the castle,
and it was subsequently converted into a state-prison. Since 1798 it has
been used as a military arsenal.
Between Chillon and Villeneuve, on the slope of the hill, is
the handsome Hotel Byron (p. 225). The lie de Paix, an islet 30
paces long and 20 wide, 1/3 M. to the W. of Villeneuve, and 1/4 M.
from the S. bank, commanding a line view, was laid out and planted
with three elms by a lady a century ago, and recalls Byron's lines : —
'And then there was a little isle.
Which in my very face did smile,
The only one in view.'
In the E. bay of the lake, i'/i M. from Chillon, lies Villeneuve
(*H6t. du Port; *H6t. de Ville), a small walled town, the Pennilucus,
or Penneloci of the Romans. The 'Clos des Moines' is a good wine
grown here. (Railway-station, see p. 228.)
Footpath to Montbovon (p. 236) over the Col de la Tiniire i;5340') in
4','2 hrs., to Chateau d'CEx (p. 237) in 6 hrs.
15*
228 Route 65. PAUDfeZE. From Geneva
lUiLWAY Journey. Geneva, see p. 205. The train rims high
above the lake, overlooking the hills on the E. bank witli their nu-
merous villas, above which rises the long ridge of the Voirons and
in clear weather Mont Blanc. 21/2 M. Chambefty ; i M. Genthod-
BeUevue; bi/oM. Versoix (p. 217); 8V2 M. Coppet (p. 218). At
(11 M.) Celiyny the Dole (p. 218) becomes visible to the left. Be-
yond (147-2 M-) Nyon (p. 218) the line skirts Prangins -Kith its
chateau, and then quits the bank of the lake.
The tract of country between the Promenthouse, whicli the train
crosses near (17'/2 M.) Gland, and the Aubonne (see below) is
called La Cote and is noted for its wine. 20 M. Gilly-Burslnel;
211/2 M. Rolle (p. 21i)). The height to the left is the Signal de
Bougy {2910'; p. 219), a splendid point of view, easily reached
from Kolle or from the next stat. (25 M.) Aubonne- Allaman.
The train crosses the Aubonne and returns to the lake. 28 M.
St. Prex; the village lies on a promontory below, on the right.
From (30'/2 M.) Merges (p. 219; station 8 min. from pier) Mont
Blanc is seen in all its majesty in clear weather, but soon disap-
pears. In the distance tn theN.W., above the valley of the Morge»,
which the train crosses here, is the chateau of Vufflens (p. 219 ).
The line again leaves the lake, crosses the Venoge, and joins
the Neuchatel railway (p. 197). 35'/2 Renens.
38 M. Lausanne (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 220.
Tlie train (views on the right) skirts the lake the greater part of
the way to Villeneuve. We cross the Paudeze by a handsome bridge
(above which, to the left, is the lofty nine-arched viaduct of the
Freiburg line, p. 201 ), pass through a short tunnel, and skirt tlic
vine-clad slopes of La Vaux (p. 222). 42 M. Lutry.
From (44 M.) Cully (p. 222) to (47 M.) Rivaz-St. Saphorin the
train runs close to the lake, then quits it, and crosses the Veveyse.
50 M. Vevey (p. 222); 5O1/2 M. La Tour de Peilz (p. 224) ; 52 M.
Burier; then a tunnel, beyond which we obtain a fine viewofMont-
treux. Chillon, and the E. bay of the lake. 53 M. Clarens (p. 224).
54 M. Montreux - Vernex (p. 225), beyond which we again
approach the lake. 55 M. Territet-Glion (Cafe-Restaut., and small
bazaar), immediately above the steamboat -pier Territet- Chillon
(p. 225), and the starting-point of the cable-tramway to Glion
(p. 226). 55V2M. T'et/^aux-C/umn (p. 226) is 1/4 M. from the castle.
57 M. Villeneuve, see p. 227. The train now enters the broad
and somewliat marshy Rhone Valley, bounded by high mountains.
The Rhone flows into the lake 3 M. to the W., near Bouveret. Its
grey waters, the deposits of which have formed an extensive alluvial
tract, present a marked contrast to the crystalline azure of the same
river where it rushes through the bridges at Geneva.
The first station in the Rhone Valley is (591/2 M.) Roche.
Part of the mountain near Yvorne (1560'), to the left, was pre-
cipitated on the village by an earthquake in 1584. Excellent wine is
to Martigny. AIGLE. «5. Route. 229
grown in the gorge ('Crosex-Grille" and 'Maison Blanche' or 'Clos
(In Rocher"). To the right towers the jagged Dent du Midi (p. 242).
63 M. Aigle. — 'Grand Hotel, on a liill l'/4 M. above Aigle, with
extensive grounds, and suitable for a prolonged stay, R., L., & A. 31/2,
B. l'/'2. !>• 4, pens. 6-10 fr. — -Pens. Bead-Site, at the station ; "Victokia,
opposite the post-ulfice, with dependance and garden, moderate; Hot. du
Midi and Hot. du Nokd, both unpretending. — English Church Service
at the Grand Hotel.
Aigle (1375'; pop. 3533), a small town with a large chateau,
is prettily situated on the turbulent Grande-Eau.
The Plantour (1604'; see below), a hill '/z hr. to the E., with a tower
(60' high) of Roman origin and grounds , affords charming views of the
Rhone Valley.
ViLLAKS, 3V4 hrs. E. of Aigle, 2>/2 hrs. above Ollon (see below), a very
favourite summer resort, lies on the hill-side, high above the right bank
of the Khone. It is best reached from Aigle (carr. 15, with two horses
30 fr. and fee; a drive of 3 hrs.; diligence daily in 3'/2-4 hrs.), as the
hotel and other accommodation at Ollon is poor. High-road to (2 M.) Ollon
(Hotel de Ville, poor) ; thence a good road in numerous windings, with fine
views. Pedestrians follow the old road, which diverges to the left from the
new immediately above Ollon. After 2 min., where the path divides, we
follow that to the extreme right. At (40 min.) La Pousaz we take the path
to the left, by the second fountain, in the middle of the village; 35 min.
Huemoz (3307'; pron. Wenis by the natives) , charmingly situated ; V2 br.
Chesiere (3970'; 'Hotel du Chamossaire, moderate), with beautiful view;
1/2 hr. ViUars (4166'; 'mi. -Pens. Breuer, R. ii A. 2, B. IV4, D. S'/z, S.
21/2 fr. ; a little farther on, -Grand Muveran, patronized by French vis-
itors ; 'Bellevue , a little higher up ; pension in each 6-8 fr.). Magnifi-
cent view of the Rhone valley, the Petit and Grand Moeveran, the Dent
de Morcles, the N. spurs of the Mont Blanc group with the Glacier du
Trient, the Dent du Midi, etc. Pleasant park-like environs, aflbrding a variety
of walks. The finest excursion is the ascent (2V2-3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary)
of the ' Chamossaire (6950'), which commands a most picturesque view
of the Bernese Alps, the Weisshorn. the Diablerets, Grand Moeveran, Dent
de Morcles, Mont Blanc, Dent du Midi, Valley of the Rhone, and Sepey.
The route is by a cart-track nearly to Bretave (1 hr. from the top), a
little below which we ascend by a path to the left to the stone signal on
the summit. — From Bretaye a tolerable path leads past the small lakes
des Chalets., Noir, and ~des Chavoiinea, to (2 hrs.) La Forclaz (4144'), and
crossing the Grande Eau, to (','2 hr.), Le .Sep ey (p. 234). We may return to
Villars the same day by carriage, via Aigle; or the next day on foot by
Au Pont, Plambuit, and Chesiere (see above). — From Villars to Ormoiit-
Desstts over the Col de la Croix (5687'), 4 hrs. ; guide (6 fr.) unnecessary, if
the traveller is shown the beginning of the route (comp. p. 234). — From
Villars by Arveye to Grijon (p. 238), 1 hr.
From Aigle a road leads by Yvorne (p. 228) to (2 hrs. ; one-horse
carr. 8, two-horse 15 fr.) Corbeyrier (3235'; H6l.-Pens. Duhuis, 5 fr.), a village
in a sheltered situation, with fine views. The Signal (i/i hr.) overlooks the
Rhone Valley from St. Maurice to the Lake of Geneva; more extensive
view, particularly of the Tour Sallieres and Dent du Midi, from the plateau
of the Agittes (4997'; bridle-path, IV2 hr.). The ascent of the Tour Je Maijen
(7620'), from Corbevrier bv the Alp Luan and Ai in 3>/2-4 hrs., is attractive.
The Tow d'Ai (78i8' ; 31/2" hrs.) is fit for experts only.
From Aigle to the Ormonts (p. '231), a pleasant excursion (one-horse
carr. to Sepey 10, to Ormont-Dessus 15 fr. and fee of 1 fr. ; diligence to
Sepey daily in 2'/4 hrs., to Ormont-Dessus in 5'/2hrs.; comp. p. 234). -■Vt-
Iractive route for walkers from Aigle via Lei/sin (4I50) to Sepey, 3\'-> hrs.
(comp. p. 231; recommended for returning).
Between Aigle and (65 M.) OUon-St. Triphon, on the left, rises
the Plantour with its tower (see above). The village of St. Triphon
230 Route 65. BEX. From Geneva
lies on theS. slope of a hill, 1 M. from the railway; Ollon is on
another hill, to the N.E. (Road to Villars 21/2 lu's., see p. 229.)
68 M. Bex. — 'Gkand Hotel des Salines, vpith salt and other baths,
and a well-equipped hydropathic establishment, in a fine sheltered situa-
tion, 2 M. from the station, R., L., & A. 31/2-5, D. 4-5, pens. 6-12 fr.
(in August the visitors are almost exclusively French); adjacent, 'Hot.-
Pens. Villa des Bains; in the village, 'Union, moderate; 'Grand Hotel
DES Bains; 'Hot.-Pens. des Alpes, pens. 4V2-5 fr. ; Pens, du Crochet;
Hail. Restaurant. — English Church, opposite the Gr. Hot. des Bains.
Bex (1427'; pop. 4348; pronounced Bay), charmingly situated,
on the Avan(^on, and affording many beautiful walks, lies 3/4 M.
from the station (omnibus 50 c. ). Bex is a favourite resort in spring ;
and in autumn it is frequented by patients undergoing the 'grape-cure'.
Fine view from Le Moniet, a hill to the N. ('/a hr.), from the Boet, and
from the Tour de Duin, a ruin on a wooded hill (3/4 hr. to the S.E.). — The
extensive salt-works of Divens and Bivietix, 3 M. to the N.E., reached by a
dhady road of gradual ascent, may be visited in half a day (guide 5 fr.).
Visitors usually drive to Devens , see the salt-works, and then visit the
mines, where the salt is obtained from the saline argillaceous slate by a
process of soaking. Salt is also obtained from the salt-springs by evapor-
ation. In the wood at the back of the salt-works are two huge erratic blocks.
A road leads to the E. of Bex, on the left l)ank of the Avancon, to
(31/2 M.) FrenUres (2850'; Pens. Giroud) and (2 M.) Les Plans (SQl2';''Pem.
de V Argentine, D. 21/2 fr.; Tens. Bernard, 'Pens. Marletaz, 5-7 fr., these two
unpretending; guides Philippe Marletaz, Charles and Jul. Veillon, Ale.Tis
Moreillon),. In the sequestered ValUe des Plans, a good starting-point for
excursions. Thus, to the Pont de Nant (4110'; Restaurant), with view of
the glaciers of the Dent de Morcles, 1/2 It. ; to the Croix de Javernaz
(6910') 3 hrs.; to the Glacier de Plan-Nevi 3 hrs. ; ascent of the Argen-
tine (7985') 4 hrs. ; "Dent de Morcles (9775'), with an imposing view of
the Mont Blanc chain and the Alps of the Valais, 7 hrs. via Nant and
the Glacier des Martinet (descent to Morcles, p. 231, 3V2 hrs.) ; Tete h Pierre-
Orept (9545') 7 hrs.; Grand-Mmveran (10,043'), by the Frite de Sailles (8527';
a pass to the Rhone Valley between the Grand and the Petit Moeveran),
7 hrs.; to Anzeindaz (p. 238) over the Col des Essets (6690') 4 hrs.
From Bex to Grijon, and over the Pas de Clieville to Sion, see R. 68.
To Chesieres and Villars (by Devens, 3 hrs.), see p. 229.
The train crosses the Avancon and the Rhone, joins the line on
the S. bank (p. 242), and passes through a curved tunnel.
71 M. St. Maurice (1377'; pop. 1643; Hotel-Pens. Grisogono,
in connection with the Rail. Restaurant; Ecu du Valais ; *Hdt. d',s
Alpes, moderate; *T)ent du Midi, plain), a picturesque old town
with narrow streets, on a delta between the river and the cliffs, the
Roman Ayaunum, is said to derive its name from St. Maurice, the
commander of the Theban legion, who is said to have suffered
martyrdom here with his companions in 302 (near the Chapelle de
Ve'roilley, p. 231). The abbey, probably the most ancient on this
side of the Alps, supposed to have been founded at the end of
the 4th cent, by St. Theodore, is now occupied by Augustinian
monks, and contains some interesting old works of art (shown by
special permission only) : a vase of Saracenic workmanship, a cro-
zier in gold, a chalice of agate, Queen Bertha's chalice, and a rich
MS. of the Gospels, said to have been presented to the abbey by
Charlemagne. On the walls of the churchyard and on the tower of
to Martigny. VERNAYAZ. 65. Route. 231
the venerable abbey-church are Roman inscriptions. — To the W. of
the station , halfway up an apparently inaccessible precipice , Is
perched the hermitage of iVofre- Dame- dM-<Sex (sax, i.e. rock), to
which a narrow path has been hewn in the rock. Farther to the N.,
above the mouth of the tunnel , halfway up the hill , is the Grotte
aux Fees, an interesting stalactite cavern with a lake and a waterfall
(1/4 hr. from the station ; tickets and guides at the old chateau).
Travellers descending the valley change carriages at St. Maurice for
Bouveret , where steamers (far preferable in fine weather) correspond
with the trains. Comp. pp. 216, 239.
The Baths of Lavey (.1377'; -Hdiel, D. S'/z, S. 2^4, omnibus 3/, fr.),
l'/2 M. above St. Maurice, are much frequented. The warm spring (100"
Fahr.), first discovered in 1831, impregnated with sulphur and common salt,
rises in a wooden pump-room , 5 min. from the hotel. — A narrow road
(one-horse carr. If fr.) ascends through wood in zigzags, to the E. of
the baths, to (2'/2 hrs.) Morcles (3822'; Pens. Cheseaux; guides Cli. Guillat
and Jul. C/ieseaux), prettily situated at the foot of the Dent de Morcles.
Above it (1/4 hr.) is DaiUy (4149'; "Pens. Perrochon, 5 fr.), with a
charming view. Ascent of the Croix de Javernaz (6910'; fine view from the
top) from Morcles via Planhaut in 2^4 hrs. (descent to Les Plans, p. 230);
of the Dent de Morcles (977.')'), 0V2 hrs. (see p. 230) ; bed of hay if required
on the Haul de Morcles (5740'), l'/2 hr. from Morcles.
Beyond St. Maurice, on the right, is the Chapelle de VeroUley,
with rude frescoes. Opposite, on the right bank, are the Baths of
Lavey (see above). The line approaches the Rhone , and passes
the spot where huge mud-streams from the Dent du Midi inund-
ated the valley in 1835, covering it with rocks and debris.
75 M. Evionnaz occupies the site of Epaunum, a town which
was destroyed by a similar mud-stream in 563. Before us rises the
broad snow-clad Mont Velan (p. 287). Near the hamlet of -La Balmaz
railway and road skirt a projecting rock close to the Rhone. On the
right is the *Pissevache, a beautiful cascade of the Salanfe (p. 242),
which here falls into the Rhone Valley from a height of 230' {^j^ M.
from Vernayaz ; best light in the forenoon). A path ascends on the
right side, and passes behind the waterfall (1 fr.).
77 M. Vernayaz (1535' ; *Gr.-H6t. des Gorges du Trient, i/o M.
from the station , finely situated at the entrance of the Gorge,
high charges, R., L., & A. 5, P. 5fr. In the village; *H6t. des Alpes,
R. 21/2 fr-; *Ii6t. Suisse; Hot. de Chamonix ; Hot. de la Poste),
the starting-point of the route to Chamonix via Salvan (p. 267) and
of the 'Nouveau Chemin' to the Tete Noire (p. 268; guide to the
Tete Noire or Chatelard 6, Chamonix 12, Cascade du Dalley 4 fr.).
On the right , beyond Vernayaz , we observe the bare rocks at
the mouth of the *Gorges du Trient, which may be ascended for
V2 M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the
foaming stream. Tickets (1 fr.) at the Gr.-Hot. des Gorges du
Trient.
The view at the entrance to the gorge is imposing. The rocks, here about
420' high , approach each other so closely at every turn , that the gorge
almost resembles a huge vaulted cavern. Where the path crosses the
Trient for the second time, the stream is said to be 40' deep; at the end
of the gallery it forms a waterfall, 30' high. The gorge (inaccessible farther
232 Route G5. MARTTGNY.
np) is "'/•jJ*I- long, extending to the Hotel de la Tete Noire (p. 2CC), from
which its entrance is visible. — The Pissevaclie and the Gorges du Trioiit
may be visited from Vernayaz in the interval between two trains.
Near Martigiiy, at the right angle wliich the Illioiie valley liorc
Ibrins , on a hill to the right, stands La Batiaz (1985'), a castle of
the bishops of Sion, erected in 1260, and dismantled in 1518. The
steep ascent to it from the Drance bridge takes '/4 hr. (adm. 30 c).
The hill on which the castle stands affords a view of the broad lower
Rhone Valley as far as Sion, and some of the Bernese Alps, above
which the Sanetsch and part of the Gemmi are prominent; on the
S. side of the valley rises the Pierre-h,-Voir, resembling a tower;
below us lie Martigny and Martigny-Bourg ; through the valley to
the S.W. runs the road to the Col de Forclaz, above which rise the
Aiguilles Rouges ; to the N. the Drance, and beyond it the Trient
join the Rhone. — The train crosses the Drance (p. 285).
81 M. Martigny. — 'Hotel Clekc, K., L., & A. 4V2, D. 5fr.;
'Hotel du SIontblanc, R., L., <fc A. 3'/-.!-4V2, D. 4 fr.; Aigle, good second-
class house, R. IV2-2 fr. ; Grand St. Beunaud , well spoken of; Hotel-
Restaurant DE LA Gare, the two last at the station, '/^ M. from the town.
Martigny- Ville (^1560'; pop. 1545), the Roman Octodurus, is a
busy little town in summer, being the starting-point of the routes
over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta (R. 78), over the Tete-Noire and
Col de Balme (RR. 73, 74) to Chamonix, and for the Val de Bagues
(R. 79). In the market-place, which is planted with trees, is a
bronze bust of Liberty by Courbet. A large Roman building has re-
cently been excavated at Martigny. — Above Martigny, on the road
to the Great St. Bernard, lies (1 M.) Martigny-Bourg (Trois Couron-
nes, good 'Coquempey' wine), the vineyards of which yield excellent
wine (^Coquempey and Lamarque, both known to the Romans).
Excursions. Near Branson, on the right bank of the Rhone, 3 M. to
the N.E. of Martigny, is the rocky hill of Xes FoUaterres, famed for its flora.
Ascent of the Arpille (6830'; 4-5 hrs. , with guide). The bridle-path
ascends beyond La Datiaz (sec above) through vineyards to the hamlet of
Sommei des Vignes; then past the hamlets of Ravoire, through wood, and
steeply to the chalets of Arpille (5964') and the summit. Superb view.
Descent to the S., through wood, in 1 hr. to the Col de la Forclaz (p. 26S).
The 'Pierre-a.- Voir (8123'), a limestone peak of the mountain-range which
separates the Rhone Valley from the Val de Drance, is ascended from Mar-
tigny, the Baths of Saxon (p. 294), Sembrancher (p. 286), or Chable (p. 291).
From Martigny a bridle-path, 6 hrs. (guide 8, mule 10 fr.). From the Col,
1/4 hr. below the summit, the descent to Saxon may be made rapidly, but
not very pleasantly on a sledge in I-IV2 hr., or on foot in 3 hours. Beauti-
ful view of the Valaisian Alps (from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn), the Ber-
nese Alps (from the Dent de Morcles to the Jungfrau), of the Rhone, Entre-
mont, and Bagne valleys, and the glacier of Gietroz (p. 291).
'Gorges du Diirnant (3-4 hrs. from Martigny, there and back), see p. 285.
66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon.
33 M. Carriage-road. From Saanen to Gsteig (8 M.) diligence daily
in l'/2hr. ; from Ormont-Dessus to (14 M.) Aigle in 4'/2 hrs. (from Aigle to
Ormont 5'/'.' hrs.). One-horse carr. from Saanen to Gsteig 8 fr., to Orniont-
De.ssus 25, to Aigle 40 fr. (carr. and pair 65 fr.), and fee.
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GSTEIG. cr,. Route. 233
Saanen (3382'), p. 188. The road leads to the S. througli the
broad and smiling Saane-Thal, called in its upper part the Gsteig-
Tbal, to Ebnit and to (1^4 M.J Gstad ['Mb^)'; Bar], at the mouth of
the Lauencnthal.
A road ascends on the riglit Viaiik of the Lnuibac/i, crossing the Tw-
liach after '/2 M., to (4 M.) Lauenen (4130'; Zi'rtr, rustic), tlie chief place
in the valley, beaulifviUy situated. The i)icluresque Lattenen-See (4557').
1 hr. higher up, is best surveyed from the 5«7i?, a hill on the E. side.
To the S. the brooks descending from the Gelien and Dungel glaciers form
fine waterfalls on both sides of the Hahnenschritlhorn (9304'). — From Laue-
nen to Lenk over the TrUttlisberg, and to Gsteig by the Krinnen, see p. 185.
Over the Gelten Pass (Col du Brozet , 9270') to Sion, to ZanJJeuron (see
below) 8 hrs., with guide, toilsome. — The Wildhorn Club-hut (p. 184) is
reached in 5 hrs. from Lauenen.
Gsteig, Fr. Chatelet (3987'; Ours, pens. 5-6 fr.), 61/4 M. from
Gstad, is finely situated. To the S. rise the Sanetschhorn (9666')
and the Oldenhorn (10,250').
To SioN OVER THE Sanetsch, 8'/2 lirs., attractive on the whole (ex-
perts may dispense with a guide in fine weather). The path crosses the
Sarine, and ascends steeply through pastures, and afterwards in windings
partly hewn in the rock, through the Jiothengrahen, to the (Q'/a hrs.)
dreary Kreuzhoden (6.565'); thence 1 hr. to the pass of the Sanetsch ^7287'),
on this side of which there is a cross (Z-a Grande Croix). Descent (passing
the large Zanflewon Glacier on the right) to the ('/a hr.) Alp Zanjieuron
(6775'; Hot. Sanetsch, plain), with tine view of the Alps of theValais, whence
the Oldenhorn (p. 234) may be ascended in 4 hrs., the Wildhorn (p. 184) in
4'/2 hrs., the Sanetschhorn, or Montbriin (96G5') in 5 hrs., and the Diableret
(p. 234) in 6 hrs. (ascent of the latter easiest from this side). The Sublage
(8973'), 2V2 hrs. from the hotel, aftbrds a magnificent view of the valleys
and mountains of the S. Valais as far as Jlont Blanc. Then by a winding
path down to the Alp Glaru (4920") and through the wild ravine of the
Marge to the bold Pont Neuf, whence a carriage road leads to (3 hrs.)
Chandolin, and by Granois and Ormona to (IV2 hr.) Sion (p. 294). Ascent
from Sion to the pass 6, descent thence to Gsteig 3 hrs.
The new road here turns to the S.W., and ascends the valley of
the Reuschbach through woods and pastures, in view of the preci-
pices of the Oldenhorn (p. 234) and the Se.c Rouge (9767'), to
(5 M.) the Col de Pillon (5086'), at the S. foot of the Palette
(p. 234). In descending (passing the Cascade du Bard, above us on
the left) we soon obtain a view of a valley bounded by tine wooded
mountains, and thickly studded with houses and chalets known col-
lectively asOrmont-Dessus. To the left is the rocky Creuxde Champ,
the base of the Diablerets , the numerous brooks falling from which
form the Grande-Eau. We first reach (3 M. from the Col) Le Plan
(3815'; *H6tel des Diablerets, with baths, R., L., & A. 31,2, D, 'i,
pens. 7-8 fr.. beside the post-station for Ormont-Dessus ; *H6t.-
Pens. Bellevue, moderate; Pens, du Moulin, Pens. Chamois), and in
1/2 hr. more, past the prettily-situated *Hdtel Pillon, Vers I'Eglise
(3650'; Pens. Mon Sejour; Pens. Busset; Hotel de I' Ours, all un-
pretending), with the church of the upper part of the valley.
Excursions from Plan. (Guides: Mollien , V. Gottraul, Fr. Bemel,
Fr. and ^foise Pichard.) To the Creux de Champ (4275'), a grand rocky
basin at the Jf. base of the Diablerets, with waterfalls on every side,
1"2 hr. (to the font of the largest fall). A good survey of the Creux de
Champ, the Oldenhorn, etc., is obtained from La Layaz (5340'), 1'/-.' !>•■. S. of
234 Route 66. LE SEPEY.
Plan. — Ascent of the -Palette (7133'; guide 5, horse 12 fr.), easy as fai- as
the (2'/4 hrs.) chalets of Isenaux; thence, without path, and rather rough,
3/4 hr. more to the top; view of the Bernese Alps from the Diablerets to
the Jungfrau and of the Dent du Midi to the S.W.; at the N. base of the
mountain lies the pretty Arnen-See. Or we may ascend from the Col de
Pillon in 11/2-2 hrs. , past the small Rettau-See. — Pointe de Ueilleret
(640i'), 2'/2 hrs. from Vers TEglise; no difficulty; view extending to
Mont Blanc. — Good walkers need no guide for any of these.
The Oldenhorn (10,250'), Fr. Becca d^Audon, a superb point of view, is as-
cended from Gsteig (7 hrs.), or from Le Plan (8 hrs.; guide 15 fr.). A
steady head and sure foot necessary. Travellers from Ormont spend the
night in the chalet of Pillon; those from Gsteig on the Upper Oldenalp.
The Diableret (10,650'; 7 hrs.; guide 18 fr.), from the Hotel des Diab-
lerets, difficult. Imposing view. Easy descent over the Zanjleuvon Glacier
to the Sanetsch Pass (comp. p. 233).
To ViLLAEs (4 hrs.), OE Gbton (41/2 hrs.) by the Col de la Ceoix, a
fine route (or over the Col de la Croix and the Chamossaire to Villars
6V2 hrs.); guide, 6 fr., not indispensable. From the Hotel des Diablerets we
ascend the valley of the Grande-Eau for l>/4 M., and then enter a lateral
valley by a bridle-path to the right (S.W.). After a somewhat steep ascent
of 13/4 hr., with almost uninterrupted views of the Diablerets, we reach
the Col de la Croix (5687'), 5 min. N. of the hamlet of La Croix. View lim-
ited. (Travellers who do not ascend the Chamossaire should at least
mount the pastures to the right of the Col de la Croix for 1/2 hr. in order
to obtain a fine view of Mont Blanc.) The path descends on the right
bank of the Gryonne, and after I'/j hr. divides : to the left to Arveye 10 min. ;
to the right to Villare 20 min. (p. 229). — The path to Gryon descends to
the left a little above Arveye , crosses the brook , and reaches Gryon in
40 min. (p. 238). This route is preferable to a path to Gryon which crosses
the Gryonne V'-; hr. from the pass and follows the left bank.
Adjoining Ormont-Dessus are the houses of the lower part of the
valley, known as Ormont-Dessous. About 41/9 M. from Vers I'Eglise
the road joins that from Chateau d'Oex (p. 237); to the S. appears
the Dent du Midi. I72 M. Le Sepey (3704'; Hot. des Alpes; Mont
d'Or, well spoken of; Cerf, moderate; one-horse carr. to Plan 8 fr. ;
and fee of 2fr.), the chief village in the lower part of the valley. The
clock here strikes each hour a second time after a minute's interval.
ExcuESiONs. Pic de Chaussu (7798'), 41/2 hrs., not difficult (comp. p. 237).
— Ascent of the ''Chamossaire via Bretaye (3V2-4 hrs.), and descent to Villars
(l'/2 hr.), see p. 229. — A road, with iine views, leads from Sepey by Xes
Cretes to the lofty village of (21/2 M.) Leysin (4150'; tavern, good 'Yvorne').
Thence to (l'/2 hr.) Aigle a good path to the left by the fountain beyond
the church, afl'ording charming views of the Rhone Valley, the Dent du
Midi, part of the Mont Blanc chain, and to the left the Dent de Morcles, Dent
Favre, and Grand McEveran. — Footpath to (I'/a hr.) Corbeyrier (p. 229).
The road turns suddenly to the S.W. in a fine wooded valley.
P'ar below, the Grande-Eau forms several falls ; to the left rises the
Chamossaire (p. 229). Near Aigle we cross the Grande-Eau.
Aigle, 7 M. from Sepey, see p. 229.
67. From Bulle to Chateau d'(Ex and Aigle.
Comp. Maps, pp. 216, 232.
4IV2 M. Diligence twice daily to (18 M.) Chateau d'CEx in 3'/2 brs.
(4 fr. 85 c, coup^ 6 fr. 30 c); thence to (23V2 M.) Aigle daily in 51/2 h".
(8 fr. 25 c, coupe 11 fr. 25 c). — Carriage and pair from Bulle to Aigle
in 7 hrs., 75-80 fr.
BULLE. 67. Route. 235
Bidle (2487' ; pop. 2746 ; *H6t. des Alpes, near the station, R. 2,
B. 1, D. 2V2 fr. ; * Union ; Cheval Blanc; Hotel de la Ville or Paste),
a busy little town, the chief place of the Oruyere and the centre of
the Freiburg dairy-farming district, is the terminus of the Romont
and BuUe railway (p. 201). The environs consist of rich pasture-
land, famed for Gruyere cheese and the melodious 'ranz des vaches'.
The natives speak a Romanic dialect, known as 'Gruerien'.
On the slopes of the Mole'son, 2 M. to the S. (carriage in 20 min. lie
the sulphur-baths of Montbarry (2712'; pens. 5-6 fr.), commanding a charm-
ing view. Ascent of the Mok'son hence, 3-3V2 hrs.
Ascent of the Biol£son feosi Bdlle, 4 hrs.; guide (8 fr.) unnecessary
for the experienced. We follow the Chatel St. Denis road (see below) for
3/4 M., and diverge to the left by a saw-mill. The path gradually as-
cends by the brook La Treme, which it crosses by a (20 miu.) mill, to the
(V'.' hr.) red-roofed buildings of Parl-Dieu, formerly a Carthusian monasterj'
(3133'), and leads along the W. slope (guide-posts) of the moimtain, cros.s-
ing several small affluents of the Treme. We pass (',2 hr.) the Gros-Chalet-
Neiif; (1 hr.) GrosPlanay (a rustic inn in a large pasture); (3/4 hr.) chalet
oi Bonne Fontaine. Thence by a steep path to the summit in '/2 hr. more
(Inn near the top).
The '^'Uoleson (6578'), the Rigi of W. Switzerland, is a bold rock, preci-
pitous on every side, surrounded with meadows and forests, which afford
an excellent field for the botanist. The view embraces the Lake of Geneva,
the Mts. of Savoy, the Dent d'Oche and Dent du Midi, and stretches to the
Jlont Blanc chain, of which the summit and the Aiguille Verte and Aiguille
d'Argentiere are visible. To the left of the latter, nearer the foreground,
rises the Dent de Morcles, the first peak of a chain which culminates
in the Diablerets in the centre, and extends to the heights of Gruyere
at our feet. The only visible peak of the Valaisian Alps is the Grand
Combin, to the left of the Mont Blanc group. Most of the Bernese Alps
are also concealed. To the extreme left, the Titlis. To the W. the Jura.
Ascent op the Mol6son from Albeuve (see p. 236; 3'/2-4 hrs.). On
the outskirts of the village the path crosses to the left bank of the brook,
traverses pastures, enters a picturesque ravine, and follows a well-shaded
slope to a small chapel and a saw-mill. Here we cross the stream, re-
cross it at a charcoal-kiln , ',■■2 hr. farther , and reach (5 min.) the first
chalet. Towards the N.N.E. the ridge separating the Mole'son from the
Little Moleson is now visible. The path continues traceable to the vicinity
of the highest chalet , which we leave on the left. Thence a somewhat
fatiguing climb of Vjt hr. to the arete, which is easily found, though
there is no path, and to the summit, which rises before us, in 10 min. more.
From Bulle through the Jauiithal to BoUigen in the Simmenthal, see
p. 187. (Diligence in summer daily in 6V4 hrs.) — From Bulle diligence
every afternoon, by Vuadens, Vaulruz (Hot. de la Ville), and Seinsales,
to (2'/2 hrs.) Chatel St. Denis (2670' ; Hdt. de la Ville) , a small town
prettily situated on the Veveyse. (The Mok'son may be ascended hence, by
the Alp Tremetlaz , in 4 hrs.) From Chatel St. Denis a diligence plies
thrice a day in 50 min. to the railway-station of Palizieux; another runs
every morning in 1 hr. 40 min. to Vevey.
'The road from Bulle to Chateau d'CEx leads past (8/4 M.) La
Tout de Treme , with its picturesque old tower , to (1 '/2 ^^ •}
Epagny (2390' ; Croix Blanche ; one-horse carr. to Montbovon 7 fr.).
On a steep rocky hill to the right lies the old town of Gruyeres
(2723' ; *FleuT de Lys, plain), with a well-preserved old castle of
the once powerful Counts of Gruyeres, who became extinct in the
16th cent. , flanked with massive towers and walls, and now con-
taining frescoes, a collection of old weapons, etc. (fee to attendant).
We enter the pretty valley of the Sarine, or Saane. At (l'/2 M.)
230 Route 07. JAMAN.. From Bulle
Enney ("iilO'l we observe the tooth-like Dent de Corjeon (6460'!
in the background; on the right are Les Va dalles {Jy^OT) , spurs
of the Mole'son. At the mouth of a ravine opposite (2V4 M. ) Vil-
lard-sous-Mont lies the large village of 'TV'mf/-F<7i(;r(/f]F6tel-Pens.).
Passing Neirivue, we next reach (IM. ) Albeuve ( '2487'; *An(je, mod-
erate; ascent of the Mole'son, see p. 235), cross the Honyrin ( below,
to the left, is a picturesque old bridge), and arrive at (3 M. )Mont-
bovon (2608'; *H6t.-Pens. duJaman, moderate; horses and guides).
From Montbovom oveb the Jaman to Montreux (6 hrs.) or Vevet
(T'/j lirs.)- Guide unnecessary (8 fr.); horse to the top of the pass 15, to
Les Avants 20, to Montreux or Vevey 25 fr. A most attractive walk;
but the pass should be reached as early as possible, as the midday mists
are apt to conceal the lake from view.
From the hotel we follow the road for 30 paces, and then ascend to
the right-, 25 min., we turn to the right by a house; 35 min., bridge over
the Hongrin; '/4 It., church of the scattered village of Allieres; 1/4 '"■.,
Croix Noire inn. (A direct route from Albeuve to this point follows the
Montbovon road for '/2M., and diverges to the right by a path to Sciernes
and Allieres, l'/4 hr. ; bevond Sciernes we take the path descending a
little to the left.)
The path now ascends gradually to the foot of the pass, then more
rapidly over green pastures (not too much to the left), to the chalets of
the Plan de Jaman, a little beyond the boundary between cantons Freiburg
and Vaud, and the (IV2 hr.) 'Col de la Dent de Jaman (4974'). A most
beautiful prospect is suddenly disclosed here, embracing the Rochers de
Naye and the entire range to the S. as far as the Tour d'Ai, and to the
N. as far as the Dent de Lys and the Moleson; also the rich Canton de
Vaud, the S. part of the Jura chain, the long range of the Savoy Alps,
the E. angle of the Lake of Geneva, and the huge Valaisian Mts. to the
S. From the Dent de Jaman (6165'; fatiguing ascent of IV4 hr. from the
Col) the view is still more extensive, including the lakes of Geneva,
Neuchatel, and Morat, Pilatus, and the Weissenstein.
From the pass to Montreux the path cannot be mistaken; 12 min.
from the chalets it turns to the right (the path to the left, skirting the E.
slope of the Bale, or brook of Montreux, being shorter but rough); 25 min.,
a bridge over the brook; then a slight ascent, and a level walk to (Vahr.)
Les Avants (p. 226). A new road descends the W. slope of the valley. Where
it trends to the W., 2 M. from Les Avants, at the beginning of the region
of fruit-trees, we descend by a paved path to the left to (10 min.) Homier,
and then rapidly to the left again to (1/2 hr.) Montreux-Vernex (p. 225).
The road to the right at the bend above mentioned soon leads to
the village of Charnex (2230'), charmingly situated in the midst of orchards,
from which another road, passing to the N. of Chatelard, leads to Brent
and Chailly. Instead of entering the village, we descend by a road to the
left, which leads us into the Vevey road. To Vevey (p. 223), 4V2 M. from
the bend. (Walkers from Vevey take the first path to the left, by the last
houses of La Totir, and then incline to the right; 12 min., to the right;
12 min., a finger-post, indicating the way to'Challey, Charnex, and Jaman'.)
The valley of the Sarine now turns to the E., and we enter a
wooded ravine, the stream flowing far below in a deep rocky chan-
nel. In a wider part of the valley lies (21/4 M.) La Tine (Inn), with
beautiful meadows. Farther on (2'/2 M-) we observe on the oppo-
site bank the pretty village of Rossinieres Q*'Pens. Grand Chalet,
5-6 fr. ; Pens. Dubuis; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer). At (IV2 M. )
Les Moulins, at the mouth of the Tourneresse, the road to Aigle di-
verges to the right (see p. 237). "We cross the Sarine by the (•''/4 M.)
bridge of Le Pre, and ascend to (1 M.) —
to Chateau d'Oex. CHATEAU D'(EX. 67. Route. 237
18 M. Cll§.teaa d'(Ex. — *//d^ Bei-l/iod, in an open situation, R.,
L.. >k A. 3, D 3 fr., patronized by English travellers: "Ours, in the village,
R., L., & A. 2V2-3'/2fr. ; 'Pens. Mosat, ''Villa d'CE.v, Bricod, de In Cheneau,
du Midi, Morier-Rosai, etc., pens, from 5 fr. — Turrian, confectioner, ices,
also a few rooms, opposite Berthod.
Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer.
Chateau d'Oex, Ger. Oesch (3498'}, is a scattered village and
summer resort in a green valley. The churchy situated on a liill, com-
mands a good view. To tlie E. rise the jagged Rilhlihorn (7570')
and the Gumfhih (S068').
*Mont Cray (6795'j may be ascended from Chateau d'Oix in 3 lirs.
(guide desirable}. The view embraces the Bernese and Valaisian Alps as
far as Mont Blanc, and the lakes of Bienne and Neuchatel to the N.
From Chateau d'Oe.x to (21/2 hrs.) Saanen, sec p. 188.
From Chateau u'(}>x to Aigle (23 M. ; diligence daily in
o'/o hrs.). The road diverges from the Bulle road at (1^/4 M.) Les
Moulins (p. 236) to the left, and ascends the valley of the Tour-
neresse (Vallee de VEtivaz) in long windings. (Walkers follow
the old road, diverging at Le Pre, just heyond the Sarine bridge.)
Tlie road runs high above the valley, affording picturesque views of
the profound rocky bed of the brook. At (3'/4 M.) Au-Devnnt the
road enters a more open tract, and its continuation is seen on the
mountain to the riglit, but it remains in the valley as far as (2 M.)
L' Etivaz (386b'\ where it turns and quits the ravine. (Pedestrians
avoid this long bend by a rough, stony path descending to the right
by a saw-mill in the valley, and rejoining the road considerably
higher up.) From Etivaz (above, anew hotel) to the top of the
hill (5070') 2 M. ; then a slight descent to (2/4 M.) La Lecherettc
(4520'; Inn). We next reach (I1/4 M.) Les Mosses (Inn), where
we have a splendid view of the Dent du Midi. The road now
descends the valley of the Raverette to (2'/4 M-) IJa Comballaz
(4476'; *Couronne^, nuich frequented for its mineral spring and
its pure air. (Pic de Chaussy, 7798', an easy ascent of 3 hrs. ;
see p. 234.) Beyond this the road overlooks a very picturesque
basin, with the Dlablerets and Oldenhorn in the background, and
winds down to (3 M.) Le Sepey (p. 234) and (7 M.) Aigle (p. 229).
68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville.
Vvinp. Map, p. 232.
12 hrs. From Be.\ to Gryon 7 M. (hotel omnibus ',2 fr. ; diligence 2 fr.
90 c., one-horse carr. 12 fr., descent 8fr.); then a bridle-path. Guide to
Aven desirable (P. L. Amiguet, P. F. Broyon, and O. F. and Henri Aulet
at Gryon; a guide may generally be found at Anzeindaz also: from Gryon
to Sion 12 fr.). Horse 20 fr.
The route over the Pas de Cheville , cutting oft' the right angle formed
by the Rhone Valley at Jlartigny, presents an almost continuous series of
wild rocky landscapes, especially on the Valais (S.) side, and commands the
Rhone Valley towards the end of the journey.
Bex, p. 230. The road leads to the N. to Bevieux (p. 230), crosses
the Avan^on, and ascends in zigzags (which the old path cuts off),
238 Route 68. PAS DE CHEVILLE.
passing the villages of La Chene, Fenalet, and Aux Ponscs. Fine
view of the Dent du Midi (p. 242). Near Gryon we obtain to the
right a pleasing glimpse of the village of Frenieres and the falls of a
branch of the Avan^on, descending from the Valine des Plans (p. 230).
7M. Gryon (3632'; Pens. Saussaz; Pens. Morel, pens, at both
4'/2-5 fr.) is a considerable village in a picturesque situation, adapted
for a stay of some time. To Villars and Ormont-Dessus, sec p. 234.
Bkidle Path. By the (10 min.) last house of Gryon we follow
the path to the right, in view of the four peaks of the Diablerets,
and skirt their steep S. slopes in the valley of the Avangon.
On the right rise the Argentine (7985') and the Grand Maveran
(10,043'). Above the (1 hr.) chalets of (Serpnemenf (4245') we cross
the Avan^on , and for a short distance traverse a pine-forest on
the abrupt limestone slopes of the Argentine, which glitter like silver
in the sunshine. Crossing the Avan(;on again, and passing the
(3/4 hr.) chalets of Solalex (4810') , we ascend a stony slope in a
long curve, and next reach the chalets of (l'/2 tr.) Anzeindaz
(6220'; Inn with 9 beds, open from the middle of July to Sept.
only). To the S. lies the Glacier de Paneyrossaz, descending from
the Tete a Pierre Grept (9545'), adjoined on the E. by the Tete du
Oros- Jean (S6Q7'). To theN. rise the rugged and riven limestone cliffs
and peaks of the Diablerets (highest peak 10,650'; ascent difficult
and dizzy ; experts take 4 hrs. from Anzeindaz; comp. pp.234, 233).
Our path now ascends gradually, to (2/4 hr.) the Pas de Cheville
(6722'). In the distance to the E. are the Alps of Valais, over which
towers the Weisshorn. The path now descends to the left, round
the mountain, where a wall and gate mark the frontier of Valais,
and over steep and stony slopes, past a waterfall, to the ('/2 hr.)
Chalets de Cheville (5710'). Here we cross the brook, follow the slope
to the right, and then descend in zigzags, passing the chalets of Der-
horence (5213'), to ('/2 hr.) the Lac de Derborence (4698'), in a
gloomy basin formed by a fall of rocks from the Diablerets in 1749.
To the left, high above us, lies the great Zanfleuron Glacier (p. 233).
We skirt the S. side of the lake ; then cross (3/4 hr.') the Lizerne,
follow the left bank, and, passing the chalets of Besson (4370'),
descend into the Val de Triquent, and skirt a wooded slope descend-
ing steeply from the E. into the profound gorge of the Lizerne.
The path, for the most part protected by a low stone wall, and quite
safe, except that at certain times it is exposed to showers of stones,
gradually descends to (1^/4 hr.) the Chapelle St. Bernard (3530'), at
the end of the Lizerne gorge, where an extensive view of the Rhone
Valley is suddenly disclosed. We now descend to the left to (20 min.)
Aven, surrounded by fruit-trees, follow the slope to (20 min.) Erde
and (25 min.) St. Severin, a thriving village belonging to Conthey,
one of the chief wine-growing villages in the Rhone Valley , which
extends to the (1^2 M.) bridge over the Morge. From this point by
the high-road to (2'/4 M.) Sion, see p. 294. Instead of following
THONON. 69. Route. 239
the dusty road , we may cross the vine-clad hill of Muraz from St.
Severin by a path commanding a fine view.
A shorter route (shaded in the afternoon) on the right bank of the
Lizerne diverges to the right 5 min. before the Lizerne bridge (p. 238).
It crosses debris at first, and is not easy to trace. Beyond the (10 min.)
chalets of Mottelon, we ascend to the right and pass above the chalets
of Servaplann (4075'; milk) to (1 hr.) those of VAirette. Then nearly
level, with fine views of the Rhone Valley ; lastly a zigzag descent to
(I'/ahr.) Ardon (Hotel du Pont), 1/2 BI. from the station of that name (p. 294).
69. From Geneva to St. Maurice via Bouveret.
Lake of Geneva (South Batik). Val d'lUiez.
Comp. Maps, pp. 216, 252.
Steamboat to Bouveret along the S. Bank 3 times daily, in 4'/a-5 hrs.
(fare 6 or 3 fr.). Stations : Cologny, Belotte, Bellerive, Corsier, Atiieres, Her-
mance, Totigues-Douvaine, Nernier, Yvoire, Aiiihj/S^ches, T/ionon, Amphion,
and Evian. — Railway via Annemasse to (42 M.) Bouveret in 2V2 hrs.
(fares 8 fr. 30, 6 fr. 25. 4 fr. 55 c. ; comp. p. 246).
Geneva, see p. 205. On leaving the quay the steamer affords a
fine retrospect of the town with its numerous villas. It touches at
Cologny (the village lying on the hill above, p. 215), La Belotte (for
Vesenaz, p. 215), Bellerive (for Collonye, a little inland), Corsier,
and Anieres. At Hermance (*Pens. Sina'i; Pens, du Colombier) the
brook of that name falls into the lake, forming the boundary be-
tween the Canton of Geneva and Savoy (France). Then Tongues and
Nernier, opposite which Nyon (p. 218) is conspicuous on theN. bank.
Beyond Yvoire with its ancient castle, situated on a promontory,
the lake suddenly expands to its greatest width (8^/4 M.). The N.
bank is now so distant that its villages are only distinguished in
clear weather. A large bay opens to the S., in which lies Excenevrex.
The Savoy Mts. become more conspicuous.
Thonon (1400'; pop. 5500; Hotel de Thonon, a large new
house; Hotel de I' Europe, on the terrace; Balance; Ville de Ge-
neve) , rising picturesquely from the lake , the ancient capital of
the province of Chablais , possesses handsome buildings and a lofty
terrace in the upper town, the site of a palace of the Dukes of Savoy
which was destroyed by the Bernese in 1536. (Cable-tramway from
the steamboat-quay).
Railway to Bellegarde, see p. 246. — To the S. of Thonon (3 M.) is
the village of Les AUinges, commanded by a ruined castle (ascent V2 hr. ;
fine view).
From Thonon a road ascends the pretty Valley of the Stance by
Le Biot and St. Jean d^Aiilpli (with ruins of a monastery) to (20 51.) a bridge
which crosses the Drance opposite to Montriond, beyond which the road
divides. The road to the right leads by Les Gels (3645') to (10 M.) Tait-
inges (p. 256); that to the left to (3 M.) Morzine (Hotel des Alpes). From
Morzine over the Col de Jouplane or the Col de la GoUse to (4 hrs.) Sa-
moms, see p. 256 ; over the Col de Coux to (S'/a hrs.) Champiry, see p. 242.
The steamer next passes the ancient chateau of Ripaille, on the
lake, a little to theN. of Thonon, once the seat of Duke Victor Ama-
deus VIII. of Savoy. The long promontory round which the vessel
now steers has been formed by the deposits of the Drance, which
240 liuute ay. BOUVEKET. From Geneva
falls into the lake here. In the bay lie the baths of Anipkion (Gv.
Hot. des Bains), with a chalybeate spring, in a chestnut-grove.
We next touch at Evian-les-Bains {'''Grand-Hot. d'Evian, with
garden on the lake, high charges, K., L., & A. from 4'/o, D. 5 tV.;
Hot. des Bains ; Hot. de France; Hot. du Nord; *Hdt. de Fonbonne.
on the lake; Restaurants at the Casino and Chateau Gothi'iue, dear),
a small town picturesquely situated (2913 inh.), with a conspicuous
church-tower. In the centre of the town is the Bath-house (water
containing bi-carbonate of soda), the garden behind which affords a
beautiful view. At the end of the pleasant lake promenade is the
Casino, with a theatre. — Railway to Bouveret and Bellegarde, p. 24G.
On the lake, near station Tour-Ronde, is the old chateau of
Blonay with a park. Opposite lies Lausanne (p. 220), picturesquely
situated on the hill-side ; more to the right is visible the lofty
Paudezc viaduct, on the Freiburg Railway (p. 202). The hills of the
S. bank, which the boat now skirts , become steeper and higher.
In a romantic situation close to the lake is Meillerie, where, in
Rousseau's 'Nouvelle Helo'ise', St. Preux takes shelter at the house
of Mme. Volmar. It was accessible from the lake only, until Napoleon 1.
made the Simplon road through the rocks. The railway Is here car-
ried through a tunnel. Beautiful view near Les Vallettes.
St. Gingolph. (Hot.-Pens. du Lac; Lion d'Or), on a prouiontory
opposite Vevey (p. 223), belongs half to Savoy, and half to Valais,
the boundary being the Morge, which flows through a deep ravine.
The grotto of Viviers, with its springs, may be visited by boat.
Interesting excursion, with fine views, up the ravine of tlie Morge and
across the mountain to Port Valais (see below). We may extend our walk
on the left bank of the Morge to (iV4 hr.) A'^ovel (two poor inns), ascend
the Blanchard (4642'; with guide, IVj hr. ; milk etc. to be had in a chalet
near the top), and return by the right bank of the Morge through beautiful
forest to St. Gingolph. — Ascent of the Dent d'Oche (7300') from Kovel,
interesting, 4-5 hrs. (with guide); the Grammont (7145') 4 hrs., also inter-
esting. — To the E. of Novel a tolerable bridle-path leads round the S.
side of the Grammont, and past the lakes of Lovenex and Taney, in 47^ hrs.
to Vouvry (p. 241).
Bouveret {Tour; Restaurant Chalet de la Foret, with extensive
grounds), lies at the S.E. end of the Lake of Geneva, ^/^ M. to
the S.W. of the mouth of the Rhone, which has converted the ad-
joining land into a marsh. Its impetuous current, caWei la Bat-
tayliere, may be traced for upwards of 1 M. in the lake. — Rail-
way to Annemasse and Geneva and to Bellegarde, see p. 246.
The Railway enters the Rhone Valley to the S.E. and follows
the left bank. At the foot of a rocky hill to the right lies Port
Valais, the Portus Vallesiae of the Romans, once on the lake, but
now 11/2 M. inland. Near the defile of La Porte du Sex (1290'),
which was anciently fortified, and formed the key to Canton Valais
in this direction, the rock approaches so near the river as scarcely
to leave room for the road. The railway is carried out into the bed
of the river. A wooden bridge crosses to Chessel on the right bank.
To the right rises the Dent du Midi (p. 241).
to St. Maurice. YAL D'lLLIEZ. 69. Route. 241
4 M. Vouvry (Paste), on the right, is the first station; beauti-
ful view by the church (3 M. from the station of Roche, see p. 2*28).
The Rhone is joined here by the Stockalper Canal, begun a century
ago by a family of that name, but never finished.
The ascent of the 'Grammont (7145'; 5 hrs. ; guide not necessiiry for
adepts) from Vouvry is very attractive and not difficult. A bridle-path
(p. 240; horses at Vouvry) ascends via Miex to the (S'/z hrs.) beautiful
Lac Taney (rustic inn); thence in I'/a hr. to the summit, which commands
a magnificent view, ranging from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn and the
Jungfrau and over the Lake of Geneva. Descent tn yovel, p. 240.
To the right are the villages of Vionnaz and Muraz at the foot
of the hills. Opposite the former lies Yvorne (p. 228), to the
right of which rise the Diablerets and the Oldenhorn. We next pass
Colomhey, with its nunnery (fine view). A suspension-bridge, 70 yds.
long, crosses the Rhone here to Ollon-St. Triphon (p. 229).
10 M. Monthey (1380' ; *Croix d'Or; Cerf), with an old chateau
and glass-works. In a chestnut-grove (guide advisable) 20 min.
above it, among a number of boulders, is the huge Pierre-a-dzo,
balanced on a point not exceeding a few square inches in area.
To the S.W. of Monthey opens the 'Val d'lHiez, about 15 M. in length,
remarkable for its fresh green pastures, picturesque scenery, and stalwart
inhabitants. (One-horse carr. from Monthey to Troistorrents 6, two-horse
10, to Champery 10 i' 20, to Morgins 12 & 24 fr. and fee; omnibus to
Champery in summer daily in 374 hrs., 2 fr. 90 c.) Near Monthey the new
road ascends on the left bank of the Yieze through vineyards, and afterwards
for 2 M. through a chestnut-wood , in numerous windings (cut off by the
old paved bridle-path, following the telegraph posts, the beginning of which
had better be asked for at Monthey). Beautiful retrospect of the valley
of the Rhone, Bex and Aigle, the Diablerets, and the Grand Mceveran.
About 3/4 M. above Monthey the old path joins the road, which we now
follow to the left where the telegraph-wires turn in that direction, and do
not again quit. (The path to the right ascends to Morgin.) We ne.xt
reach (l'/2 M.) the prettily situated village of Troistorrents (2500'; Hotel-
Pens. "Troistorrents), with a good fountain near the church. (Here to the
W. opens the Val de Morgins, in which lie the Baths of Morgins, 4405',
3 hrs. from Monthey ; the chalybeate water is chiefly used for drinking ;
'Grand Hotel, pens. 6-8 fr.) The road in the Val d'llliez graduallv ascends,
in view of the Dent du Midi all the way, to (2V2 M.) Val d'Jlliez (3145';
Hot.-Pens. du Repos) and (3 M.) Champery (3450'; "Hdtel de la Dent du
Midi, R. 2, lunch 2\% D. 31/2, pens, from 6 fr. ; -Croix Federate, R. H/-, I).
2 fr. ; Pens, du Nord), the highest village in the valley, beautifully situated.
Excursions fkom CHAMPfeKV. (Guides, Maiir. Caillet. the brothers
Grenon, Ant. Clement, E. Joris, etc.) The Roc d'Ayerne (1 hr.) afl'ords a good
survey of the environs. — The *Culet (6448' ; 3 hrs.-. guide 4 fr.) commands
a splendid view , especially of the Dent du Midi. We follow the path to
the Col de Coux (p. 242) for 3/^ hr., turn to the right by a small shrine
where the path divides, pass a large chalet on the left, and another on
the right, farther up ; then through pine-wood , and by a narrow path to
the cross on the top. Frequent opportunities of asking the way.
'Dent du Midi (10,450' ; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 18, with a night at Bonaveau 20,
with descent to Vernayaz 24 or 26 fr.). The previous night is spent in the
chalets of (2 hrs.) Bonaveau (5103'; good quarters), l^A hr. from Champery
(p. 242), thence by the Pas d'Encel, the Col de Clusanfe, and the Col
des Paresseux to the summit 5-6 hrs., the last 3 hrs. very fatiguing, but
without danger to the sure-footed. Late in summer the path is almost free
from snow, and there is no glacier to cross. The view of Mont Blanc and
the Alps of the Valais and Bern is imposing; the background to the S.
is formed by the Alps of Dauphine and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva
Bakdrkkk, Switzerland. 13th Edition. \Q
242 Route 09. COL PE COUX.
is visible from Villeneuve to Vevey. We may descend to Salvan (5^4 lirs.);
at first a toilsome descent over debris to (3'/4 brs.) the meagre pastures of
tbe upper Salan/e Alp (6278'; occupied in August only); then across the
Alp and past the picturesque falls of tbe Salan/e by a steep and stony
path to (l'/2 hr.) Van d^en haul (milkj, where we cross the Salanfe. A
better path now skirts the S. side of the valley (affording a view of
Mont Blanc as the corner of the Col de la Maize is turned) , and then
descends to (1 hr.) Salvan.
Tour Sallieres (10,587'; 9-10 hrs., guide 30 fr.; spend night at Bona-
veau, see p. 241), a difficult and fatiguing ascent, crossing the Olacier du
Mont-Ruan. Superb view of Mont Blanc. — Similar view from the Dents
Blanches (91(Xy), ascended by the Barmaz Alp in 6 hrs., without danger
for proficients (guide 15 fr.).
Passes. Fkom Champ£rt to SAMoiiNS over the Cols de Coux
AND DE LA GoLftsE, 6'/2 hrs. ; guide (13 fr.) unnecessary. At the (2/4 hr.)
small shrine mentioned on p. 241, we keep to the left, and, passing several
chalets and looking back on the imposing Dent du Midi, reach (2 hrs.)
the Col de Coux (6310'; Inn)., the frontier of Switzerland and Savoy,
which towards the W. overlooks the valley of the Drance. The saddle to
the left is tbe Col de la Golese. In descending, partly through wood, we
avoid the paths leading to the right to Morzine ( p. 239). On leaving the
wood we see the continuation of the path bearing to the left to the (IV2 hr.)
Col de la Golese (54S0'). Beautiful view of the side-valley in which Les
Allamans lies, and afterwards of the valley of the Giffre. Then (1^/4 hr.)
Samoens (p. 256|. A good road thence to (4'/2 M.) Sixt (p. 256).
Feom CHAMPfiET TO SiXT OVER THE CoL DE Sageeoh, 8-9 hrs., ar-
duons, only for adepts (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la
Dent du Midi, we descend by a narrow road leading towards tbe head of
the valley to a (20 min.) bridge, and beyond it, at (3 min.) the point
where two brooks unite to form the Vi^ze, we cross another bridge, and
avoid the path to the left. After 10 min. more we take the path to the
left, ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 min. from the top of the ascent
reach the Chalets de Bonaveau (p. 241); thence we ascend gradually,
skirting precipitous rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas d^Encel, where a little climb-
ing, facilitated by iron rods attached to the rock, is necessary. In '/4 hr. more
the path to the Col de Clusanfe diverges to the left (see below). Our route
ascends slowly over tbe pastures of the Clusanfe Alp, on tbe left bank of
the brook, crosses tbe brook (1/2 hr.), and then mounts a very steep and
dizzy path to tbe (1 hr.) Col de Sagerou (7917'), a sharp arete descending
abruptly on both sides, between the (r.) Dents Blanches (see above) and (1.)
Mt. Ruan (9995'; 3 brs. from the pass; attractive). We descend thence
to the (^^li hr.) chalets of Vogealles and ('/a hr.) Sorce , and along an
almost perpendicular rocky slope into the ('/2 hr.) valley of the Giffre.
In 11/4 hr. we reach Ifant Bride, and in IV4 hr. more Sixt (p. 256).
Feom CHAMPfiRT to Veenataz over the Col de Clusanfe or Sezanfe
(7940' ; 10-11 hrs.; with guide), fatiguing. Beyond the Pas d'Encel (see above)
we ascend to the left to the col, between the Dent du Midi and the Tour
Sallieres, and descend through the Salan/e Valley (see above) to Salvan
and Vernayaz. — Or we may ascend to the right from the chalets of
Salan/e, 1 hr. beyond the Col de Clusanfe, and cross the Col or Chieu
d'Emaney (7960')i lying between the Tour Sallieres and the Luisin (p. 267),
to the valley of tbe Trikge, Emaney, and (5-6 hrs.) Triquent (p. 268), or the
Col d'Emaney and Col de Barberine (8136') to the valley of the Eau Noire,
Barberine. and (7 hrs.) Valorcine (p. 266), or finallv to the E. by the Col
de Salanfe (7290') to (3V2 hrs.) Evionnaz (p. 231).
The train crosses the Vilze, which descends from the Val d'llliez,
and at Massongex approaches the Rhone. At (I41/2 M.)5t. Maurice
(p. 230) our line is joined hy that of the right bank.
V. SAVOY, THE VALAIS, AND THE ADJACENT
ITALIAN ALPS.
70. From Geneva via Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to Cham-
bery and back via Annecy 246
Perte du Khone. From Bellegarde to Bouveret, 246. —
Excursions from Aix-les-Bains : Lac du Bourget ; Haute-
Combe, etc., 248. — From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy, 248.
— Excursions from Chambery, 249. — From Albertville
to Moutiers and to Beaufort, 250. — From Ugine to Sal-
lanches or St. Gervais, 250. — Semnoz ; Parmelan ; Tour-
nette, 251. — From Annecy to Scionzier via Grand Bor-
nand and to Sallanclies over the Col des Aravis, 252.
71. From Geneva to Chamonix 253
i. Via Sallanclies 253
>-From Bonneville to Taninges, 253. — Pointe Percee.
St. Gervais-les-Bains, and over the Col de la Forclaz
to Les Houches, 254. — Gorges de la Diosaz, 255.
ii. Via Sixt 255
Pralaire, 255. — Mole; Pointe de Marcelly, 256. — Ex-
cursions from Sixt: Vallee du Fer a Cheval; Fond de
la Combe; Pointe de Tanneverge; Pointe Pelouse, 256.
— From Sixt to Chamonix over the Buet, 257.
72. Chamonix and Environs 257
Mont Blanc, 263. — From Chamonix over the Col du
Geant to Courmayeur ; Cols de Triolet, de Pierre-Joseph,
des Hirondelles, de Miage, 264.
73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire, or
to Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan 264
Glacier d'Argentiere; Col dArgentiere ; Col du Char-
donnet; Fenetre de Saleinaz; Col Dolent; Col des Grands
Montets, etc., 265. — Gouffre de la Tete-Noire, 266. —
Cascade du Dalley; Luisin; Dent du Midi, 267.
74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme .... 268
Glacier du Trient 268. — From the Col de Balme to the
Tete-Noire, 269. — To Oraieres over the Col du Tour, 269.
75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bon-
homme and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc. 270
Col de Voza; 270. — Mont Joli; Cols du Mont Tondu
and de Trelatete, 271. — From Chapieux to Pre -St.
Didier over the Little St. Bernard, 272. — Col de Che-
couri ; Mont de la Saxe ; Pavilion du Fruitier, 274. —
From Courmayeur to Martigny over the Col Ferret, 274.
76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea 275
Tete de Cramont. From Pre- St. Didier to Bourg-St.
Maurice over the Little St. Bernard. Mt. Valaisan,
Belvedere, Lancebranlette, 275. — From Bourg-St.
Maurice to Tignes, 275. — Becca di Nona ; Mont Emilius ;
Mt. Fallere, 277, 278. — From Aosta to Zermatt over
the Col de Valpelline. Mont Luseney. Passes from
Valpellina to the Val St. Barthelemy, 278.
77. The Graian Alps 280
From Aosta to Cogne over the Passo d'Arbole. Punta
del Pousset ; Grivola ; Punta di Tersiva, 281. — Passes
from Cogne to Cereaole, Bard, etc., 282. — From Cogne
to Valsavaranche over the Colle Lauzon, 282. — Cols
244 SAVOY AND VALAIS.
de THerbetet and Meaoncles. Gran Paradiao, 283. — From
Valaavaranche to Rhemes Notre-Dame over the Col d'En-
trelor; Colle diSort; Colle di Hliemes; Colle Roasetto,
283. — From Rhemes Notre-Dame to Valgrisanche over
the Colle dell a Fineatra. Rutoi-. Col du Mont, 283, 284.
— From Villeneuve to Cereaole and Ponte over the Col
de Nivolet. Col de la Galeae, 284, 285.
78. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard . . . 285
Gorges du Durnant, 285. — Mont Chemin. Val Cham-
pex ; Col des Ecandies. Cabane d'Orny ; Fenetre de Sa-
leinaz. Mont Brule, 286. — Valaorey ; Grand Combin;
Mont Velan, 287. — Chenaletta; Pointe des Lacerandes;
Mont Mort. From St. Bernard'a Hospice over the Col
de Fenetre to Martigny, and over the Col Ferret to Cour-
mayeur, 289. — Col de la Serena, 290.
79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val
de Bagnes 291
Cabane de Panossiere; Grand Combin; Cols dvi Cret, de
Sevreu, de Cleuson , and de Louvie, 291. — Excur-
sions from Mauvoisin. Mont Avril ; Tour de Bouaaine;
Grand Combin ; Mont Blanc de Seilon ; Mont Pleureur,
etc., 292. — From Chermontane to Bourg-St. Pierre over
the Col du Sonadon or the Col des Maisons Blanches;
to Liappey over the Cols de Seilon, de Breney, and de
Vasevay; to Valpellina over the Cols de Crete Seche,
d'Otemma and de la Reuse d'Arolla, 292, 293.
80. From Martigny over the Simplon to Novara or to Lago
Maggiore 293
Col des Etablons, 294. — Mont Bonvin. Forest of Pfyn ;
Illgraben, 295. — Belalp; Aletsch Glaciers; Sparrhorn ;
over the Beich-Pasa to the Lotschenthal, 296, 297. —
Excursions from Berisal: Wasenhorn, Bettlihorn, and
Bortelhorn ; to Iselle via Alp Veglia ; Col di Valtendro,
298. — Schonhorn; Monte Leone. From Simplon to
Saas ; Rossbodenjoch ; Laqninjoch ; Sirvolten Pass; Si-
meli Pass ; Gamser Joch ; Fletschhorn, 299. — From Gondo
to Saas over the Zwischbergen Pass, 300. — From Domo
d'Ossola over the Antrona Pass to Saaa, and over the
Antigine Pasa to Mattmark, 301. — From Gravellona to
Stresa and to Pallanza, 301, 302.
81 . From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. The Eggishorn . . 302
Gerenthal ; Piz/.o Rotondo. From Ulrichen to Airolo over
the Nufenen Pass. Loffelhorn, 303. — Fiesch Glacier;
Eggishorn, 304. — Excursions from the Eggishorn : Con-
cordia Hut ; Gr. Aletscbhorn ; Liitschenlucke ; from the
Eggishorn to the Riederalp and Belalp, 304, 305. — From
Fiesch over the Albrun Pass to Baceno, or to the Tosa
Falls; Binnenthal; Ofenhorn, 305. — From Fiesch to
Baceno over the Geisspfad Pass or the Kriegalp Pass,
and to Iselle over the Ritter Pass, 305, 306.
82. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Falls
of the Tosa. Val Formazza 306
Basodino. From the Tosa Falls to Airolo over the
S. Giacomo Pass; to Bignasco over the Bocchetta di Val
Maggia, 307, 308. — From Andermatten to Cevio over
the Criner Furka, 308.
83. The Valleys of the Valais, between Sion and Turtmann
(Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley) . 309
SAVOY AND VALAIS. 245
i. From Sion through the Val d'Herens to Evolena,
and over the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Annivlers 309
Mayens de Sion, 309. — Val d'He'remence. Pic d'Arzinol ;
Col de la Meina ; Mt. de TEtoile, 310. — Excursions from
Arolla : Lac Bleu de Lueel ; Mont Collon ; Eveque ; Pigno
d'AroUa ; Dents de Veisivi; Aig. de la Za; Dent Perroc;
Dent des Bouquetins, 311. — Cols de Collon, de Za-de-Zan,
and de Eiedmatten; Pas de Chevres, 311. — Col de Cher-
montane. Cols de I'Eveque, de Bertol, du Mont Briile,
and de Valpelline, 312. — Ferpecle ; Alp Bricolla. Cols
du Grand Cornier, de la Pointe de Bricolla, and d'Herens,
312, 313. — Col des Bouquetins; Dent Blanche; Grand
Cornier, 313. — Sasseneire ; Pas de Lona ; Bees de Bos-
son, 313. — Col de Sorebois, 314.
li. From Sierre through the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal . 314
From Sierre to St. Luc ; Illhorn, 314. — Alp de TAUe'e ;
Alp d'Arpitetta; Constantia Club-hut, Eoc Noir; Pointe
d^Arpitetta ; Besso ; Pigne de TAUee ; Bouquetin ; Dia-
blons; Grand Cornier; Zinal Eothhorn, Gabelhorn, 315.
— Col de TAllee; Col de Couronne; Triftjoch; Col Du-
rand ; Morning Pass ; Schallijoch, 316.
iii. St. Luc. Bella Tola. Over the Pass du Boeuf (or
the Meiden Pass) into the Turtmann Valley, and
over the Augstbord Pass to the Valley of the Visp. . 316
Hotel Weisshorn, 317. — Col des Diablons; Pas de la
Forcletfa. From Gruben to Turtmann, 318. — The
Schwarzhorn. Jung Pass; Barr Pass; Brunneggjoch ;
Biesjoch, 318.
84. From Vlsp to Zermatt, and over the Theodule Pass
to Chatillon 319
From Stalden to the Simplon over the Bistenen Pass.
319. — From Breuil to Pra-Raye over the Col du Val Cour-
nere ; Chateau des Dames, 32t. — Grand Tournalin, 322.
85. Zermatt and Environs 322
Ciorges du Corner; RifVelberg and Gornergrat, 323. —
Schwarzsee Hotel; Hiirnli ; Slaflelalp. Zmutt Glacier.
Findelen Glacier, 324, 325. — Mountain excursions from
Zermatt and the Riffelhaus: Breithorn; Cima di .Taz/.i ;
Kiflelhorn; Mettelhorn ; Unter-Gabelhorn ; dber-Roth-
horn ; Strahlhorn ; Rimpflschhorn ; Dom ; Lyskamm ;
Monte Rosa; Matterhorn; Ober-Gabelhorn ; Zinal-Roth-
horn ; Weisshorn ; Dent Blanche ; Dent d'Herens, 325-
327. — Glacier Passes from the Riflel : Schwarzthor ;
Zwillings-Pass ; Lysjoch ; Felikjoch; SesiaPass; Piode-
joch; Is'ew and Old Weissthor, 327. — Glacier Passes
from Zermatt to Zinal, Evolena, Chermontane, Valpel-
lina, and Valtournanclie, 328.
86. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over the Monte
Moro to Saas and Visp 328
Excursions from Macugnaga: Belvedere; Petrlcilo-Alp;
Piz'/.o Bianco; Monte Rosa; Weissthor, 329, 330.— Stelli-
horn ; Schwarzberg-Weissthor ; Adler Pass ; AUalin Pass,
331. — Fee; Triftalp; Mittaghorn ; Egginerliom ; Allalin-
horn ; Ulrichshorn; Balfrin; Stellihorn ; Sonnighorn;
Latelhorn; Weissmies, etc., 332. — Alphubeljoch; Nadel-
joch; Domjoch; Mischabeljoch; Ried Pass,' 332, 333.
87. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa . , . 333
246 Route 70. BELLEGAKDE. From Geneva
Turlo Pass ; Col delle Loccie. Pile Alp ; Corno Bianco.
CoUe di Moud and BocchettaMoanda; Col d'Olen ; Gems-
stein, 334. — Col delle Pisse ; Col di Valdobbia, 335.
— Excursions from Gressoney : Cortlis ; Lintyhiitte,
Gnifettihiitte, Sellahiitte. Vincent Pyramid. Lyakamm.
Castor, 335. — Col della Ranzola; Col de Joux. Monl
Taille ; Punta Frudiera, 335. — Bettaforca ; Bettliner
Pass ; Pinter Joch ; Val d'Ayas or Challant; Col des Cimes
Blanches; Grand' Sometta, 335, 336.
70. From Geneva via Guloz and Aix-les-Bains to
Chambery, and back via Annecy.
Railway to Aix-les-Bains (551/2 M.) in 3V-j hrs. (11 fr. 30, 8 fr. 5, 6fV.
lOc), to Chambery (64 M.) in 4 hrs. (12 fr. 75, 9 fr. 60, 7fr. 5 c.), to Albert-
ville (93'/2 M.) in 7 hrs. (18 fr. 70, 14 fr. 10, 10 fr. 35 c); from Aix-les-Bains
to Annecy (25 M.) in 11/2-2 hrs. (4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 65 c.) ; from Annecy
to Geneva (371/2 M.) in 21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 30, 5 fr. 50 c., 4 fr.). Diligence be-
tween Albertville and (28 M.) Annecy daily in 4 hrs. — See also Baedeker's
Midi de la France, 2nd ed., 1886.
Geneva, see p. 205. 3 M. Meyrin, 5'/2 M. Satigny ; on the left
flows the Rhone. Near (81/2 M.) La Plaine we cross the valley of the
London. 121/2 M. Chancy - Poug ny ; 14'/2 M. Collonges. The Rhone
here separates the steep slopes of the Mont Vuaehe (3444') from
the Jura chain. The lofty Fort de I'Ecluse (1387'), to the right,
guarding the entrance to France , was founded by the Dukes of
Savoy, extended hy Vauban, destroyed by the Austrians in 1814,
and rebuilt by the French ten years later. Beyond the short tunnel
under the fort we pass through the Tunnel du Credo, 21/2 M. long,
and cross the deep valley of the Valserine by an imposing viaduct,
275 yds. long and 170' high.
21 M. Bellegarde (Buffet; Hot. de la Poste); French 'douane'.
Above the confluence of the Valserine and the Rhone, about 1/2 M. from
the hotel, is the so-called Perte du Rhone. Fiirmei-ly, when the river
was low (Nov. to Feb.), it disappeared entirely in a cleft in the rock for
about 100 paces , but the channel has recently been so much widened
by bla.sting that the water always remains visible. The water of the
Rhone is used as a motive power for machinery by the Compagnie
Hydraulique du Rhone. A conduit 820 yds. in length, and chiefly under
ground, is carried from the bed of the river above the Perte to the Val-
serine , into which it falls a little above its influx into the Rhone. A
new manufacturing town is springing up here, and a railway now runs
through the valley of the Valserine to Nantua and Bourg.
From Bellegarde to Bouveret (62i/i M.), railway in 31/4 hrs. Stations :
Valleiry ; Yiry; 15 M. St. Julien; 20 M. Bosseij-Veyrier . at the N.W.
base of Mt. Saleve (p. 215). The Arve is then crossed to (2i M.) Annemasse
(p. 253), the junction for Annecy and Geneva (p. 252), on the high-road
to Chamonix (p. 253). 28 M. St. Cergues; 33 M. Bons-St. Didier (ascent of
the Voirons, see p. 253) ; 37 M. Perrignier ; 43 if. Thoiwn (p. 239); 49 M.
Evian (p. 240); 521/2 M. Lugrin; 56 M. Meillerie; 59V2 M. St. Gingolph;
621/2 M. Bouverel (p. 240).
Four tunnels (1121, 917, 493, and 166 yds. in length respect-
ively). Beyond (28 M.) Pyrimont (with asphalt-mines near it) a
to Chambery. AIX-LES-BAINS. 70. Route. 247
handsome viaduct crosses the Vezeronce. 32'/2 M. Seyssel (Ecu de
France), an old town, on both banks of the Rhone, here crossed by
a double suspension-bridge. The river, now navigable, flows through
a broad channel with numerous islands, and the valley expands.
41 1/2 M. Culoz (774'; Hot. Folliet ; *liaU. Restaurant), at the base
of the Colombier (5033'), is the junction for Lyons, Macon (Paris),
and Turin. Carriages generally changed, and a long halt.
The Mont-Cenis train crosses the Rhone, and at (46 M.) Chin-
drieux reaches the N. end of the Lac du Bourget (745'), which is
10 M. long and 3 M. broad. To the right, on a wooded hill
projecting into the lake, is the old chateau of Chdtillon. The train
skirts the rocky E. bank, passing through four tunnels. To the right
a pleasing view of the lake, the monastery of Haute-Combe, the
chateau of Bourdeau, and the Dent du Chat (p. 248).
55^/2 M. Aiz-les-BainS. — ^'Grand Hotel d'Aix, Avenue de la
Gare; Gkands Hotels de l'Europe , de l'Univers , *du Nord , and
' Hot. Venat in the Rue du Casino ; Grand Hotel de la Galerie,
between the Rue du Casino and the Place Centrale; Splendide Hotel,
finely situated above the Jardin Public. All these are of the first
class, with corresponding charges: R. , L. , & A. 5-6, B. IV2, lunch
3, D. 5 fr. Slightly less e.xpensive: Gr. Hot. des Bergues, Avenue
de la Oare; Gr. Hot. du Globe, Hot. des Bains, Rue du Casino; Bead-
site, above the Jardin Public ; 'Chateau-Durieux, BouI. des Cotes; 'Hot.
GuiLLAND ET DE LA PosTE, Place Ceutrale; Hot. Laplace, Hot. de Ge-
neve. Rue du Casino; Hot. de l'Etablissement Thermal, by the Baths ;
Hot. Damesin & Continental, Rue de Chambdry; Hot. de la Poste,
Germain, Bossdt, Garin , dd Paec, etc. — Pemions and Maisons Meu-
hlies also abound.
Caf£s-Restaurants. Dardel, Place Centrale; Gr. Cafi de la Gave, etc.
Cab, per drive, 1-2 pers., 1 fr.. 3-4 pers. 2 fr. ; per hour with one
horse 3, with two horses 4 fr. — Voituees Pcbliques for excursions (to
Marlioz, Port Puer, etc.), Place Centrale.
Casinos. Cercle , Rue du Casino, adm. 3 fr. ; season-ticket 40, for
2 pers. 65 fr. — Villa des Fleurs, Avenue de la Gare, similar.
English Church Service during the season.
Aix-les-Bains (S60'; pop. 4741), the Roman Aquae Allobrogum,
or Aquae Gratianae, a famous watering-place, picturesquely situated,
is visited annually by upwards of 12,000 patients. It possesses warm
(113°) sulphur-springs, used for drinking and for baths. The large
Etablissement Thermal, erected in 1854, is well fitted up. In front
of it rises the Arch of Campanus, a monument erected in the 3rd
or 4th cent. A. D., in the form of a triumphal arch, in memory of
T. Pomp. Campanus and his family. The eight niches contain the
urns of the persons whose names are recorded on the monument.
The well-preserved Chateau (14th cent.), now \he Hotel de Ville,
contains a Museum of antiquities, chiefly from the lake-dwellings
of the Lac du Bourget, and other curiosities (open daily 9-12 and
2-5; 5 c). The rallying-points of visitors are the sumptuous Cercle
or Casino, with its handsome saloons, and the Villa des Fleurs (see
above), with its pleasant garden , where concerts are frequently
given. Queen Victoria resided at the Villa Mottet during her visit
to Aix in April, 1885. — Omnibuses run from the Place Centrale
248 Route 70. AIX-LES-BAINS. From Geneva
every 20 min. to (1 M.) Mnrlioz (in lOmin.; there and back 60c.),
which possesses cold sulphur-springs (with inhaling-chamber), a
chateau, and a park (restaurant).
Excursions. Pleasant shady walks in the Pare, the Promenade du
Qigot , and the Avenue Marie. — The Lac du Bourget (p. 247) may
be reached either by the 'Route du Lac', leading to the (2 M.) Port de
Puer (steamboat-pierj, or by the Avenue de Cornin, leading to the (I'/t M.)
Port de Cornin. On the bank of the lake extends the beautiful wooded
hill of Tresserve, 3 M. in length, with shady walks and fine views. At
the N. end of the hill rises the Maison du Diahle (villa and garden), and
on the W. side, on the bank of the lake, is the chateau of Bonport.
* Hautecombe, a Cistercian monastery on the N.W. bank of the lake,
at the foot of the Mont du Chat, ia another interesting point. (Steamboat
thither several times a week; trip round the lake on Sundays, allowing
an hour at Hantecombe. Boat with two rowers to Hautecombe and back,
with one hour's stay, 4 fr. ; each hour more V/-> fr. ; to Bourdeau 5 fr. ;
a bargain should be made beforehand.) The abbey, which was the burial-
place of the Princes of Savoy until 1731, when the Superga near Turin
was chosen for that purpose, was destroyed during the French Revolution,
and handsomely rebuilt in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of Sardinia. The
church contains the monuments of Amadeus V., VI., VII., Humbert III.,
Louis I., Baron de Vaud, Jeanne de Montfort, Count Haymon, Boniface of
Savoy (Archbishop of Canterbury), the splendid mausoleum of Peter of Savoy,
Anna of Zahringen, etc. The view from the neighbouring tower of P/iare
de Ges-iens has been described by Rousseau. About 3/4 M. from the mon-
astery is the intermittent Fontaine des Mevveilles. — On the site of the old
Roman road a good high-road crosses the Mont du Chat. We combine a
visit to the monastery with a survey of the scenery by taking a boat from
Aix to Hautecombe, whence it should be sent on to the chateau of Bour-
deau, at the S. end of the road over the Mont du Chat; after visiting the
monastery and the intermittent spring , we descend by a footpath to the
Mont du Chat road, which leads us to Bourdeau, and thence we return by
boat to Aix. — Farther to the S., at the influx of the Leisse, lies the vil-
lage of Le Bourget, with a ruined castle and a church in the transitional
style, the choir of which contains fine basreliefs of the 13th cent. —
Ascent thence of the Dent du Chat (5304'), 4 hrs., by a good bridle-path;
splendid view of the Alps, including Mont Blanc.
To the N. of Aix, on the Geneva road, lies (I'/z M.) St. Simon, with
a chalybeate spring; '/■! hr. thence, in a romantic gorge, are the Cascades
de Grisy (adm. 50 c). From St. Simon a good road leads to the N.E.
through the picturesque D^fil4 des Combes to the (S^/z M.) Moulin de
Prime, and thence by Cusy to the (71/2 M.) Grolte de Bange with its sub-
terranean lake (a drive from Aix of 5'/2 hrs., there and back; lights for
the grotto must be brought). — To the E. of Aix a pleasant walk by (^4 hr.)
Mouxy and the (IV4 hr.) Rocher de St. Victor with a chapel , to the
(IV2 hr., 3'/2 hrs. from Aix) Montagne de la Cluse , commanding a beau-
tiful view. — To the S.E. (20 min.) the Rocher du Roi, once a Roman
quarry, with a fine view.
From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy, 25 M., a branch-line (H/2 hr.). The
train runs at first to the N. through the valley of the Si4roz, which has
worn a deep channel for itself, called the Gorges du Sii'roz (where a small
steamboat plies), i^lz 31. Gresy-sur-Aix, with a ruined castle and a pretty
waterfall (see above). 7'|2 M. Athens. Through an opening to the right
appear the Semnoz and the Tournette (p. 251). lO'/j M. Bloye. At (13 M.)
Rumilly (1095'; Paste; Restaur. Ducrel), a little town of Roman origin, we
cross the Chiron. The train turns to the E. and enters the pretty valley
of the Fier. 17 M. Marcellaz-Hauteville. We now traverse the vrild and
romantic Difili du Fier (twelve bridges and two short tunnels). On the
left, near the end of the gorge, rises the chateau of Montrottier . of the
14-I6th centuries. 2O1/2 BI. Lovagny (restaur, at the station and at the
entrance to the porge) ; ','2 M. to the E. are the Gorges du Fier, a grand
ravine 275 yds. long, enclosed by limestone rocks nearly 300' high, ren-
to Chambery. CHAMBERY. 70. Route. 249
dered accessible by a wooden gallery (1 fr.). Beyond Lovagny we obtain
a fine view, to the right, of the Parmelan, the Semnoz , and the Tour-
nette. Tunnel of 1270 yds.; then a bridge across the Fier. 25 M. Annecp,
see p. 251.
As the train proceeds, the lake is concealed by the wooded hill
of Tresserve (p. 248). Fine view to the right.
58 M. Viviers. To the left rises the Dent du Nivolet (5113').
64 M. Chambery (883'; pop. 19,622; *H6t. de France, Quai
Nezin, near the Boulevards; * Hot. de iEurope, Rue d'ltalie, a
good way from the station ; Hot. des Princes, Rue de Boigne ; Hot.
de la Paix, opposite the station), the capital of Savoy, a handsome
looking town, lies on the rapid Leisse. On the promenade between
the railway and the town rises a large Fountain-Monument, adorned
with life-size elephants, in memory of General de Boigne (d. 1830)
who bequeathed to Chambery, his native town, a fortune of 15 mil-
lion fr. amassed in the East Indies. Of the ancient and loftily sit-
uated Chateau of the counts and dukes of Savoy, erected in 1232,
now restored and occupied by the Prefecture, the square tower and
part of the fagade belong to the original building. It contains small
archseological and natural history collections. The chapel ('Sainte
Chapelle') has an elegant late-Gothic choir. At the back of the
chateau is the Grand Jardin (reached by going to the left round
the building, through the gate, and up the avenue), a public pro-
menade with a terrace commanding a fine view. The Theatre is
richly decorated in the interior. Near it is the archiepiscopal Ca-
thedral, a Gothic edifice (14th and 15th cent.). The pleasing new
Hotel- de-Ville possesses a small picture-gallery. In front of the
Palais de Justice rises a bronze statue of Ant. Favre (d. 1624), a
famous jurist, erected in 1864.
Walks. To the N., above the town (10 min.), rise the Rochers de
Lemenc, with a church in which Gen. de Boigne and Mme. de Warens,
Rousseau's friend, are interred. Charming view. — To Buisson - Bond
(20 min.), a pleasant park; the Cascades de Jacob (','2 hr.); the chapel
of St. Satuvnin (l'/4 hr.). — Bout du Monde (1 hr.), a rocky gorge at
the base of the Dent du Nivolet, with a fine waterfall of the Doria. —
Les Chwmettes ('/z hr. ; adm. 1/2 fr.), a country-house once occupied by
Rousseau and BIme. de Warens (1736). — Challes (1', 4 hr. ; omnibus from
stat. Chambe'ry V2 br.), with a sulphur-spring, a bath-house, and an old
chateau converted into a hotel and pension (good, but dear).
The ascent of the Dent du Nivolet (5113'; 4V2-5 hrs.) is attractive and
free from difficulty. Road for about 8 M. ; then a bridle-path nearly to
the top. Magnificent view.
Beyond Chambery we traverse a picturesque district, passing
the ruins of Batie and Chignin. The precipitous Mont Granier
(6358') on the right owes its peculiar form to a landslip in 1248,
which buried sixteen villages. 70 M. Chignin-les-Marches. 72 M.
Montmelian (921'; Rail. Restaurant), junction for Grenoble. The
castle, on a hill, of which a few fragments only are left, long
served as a bulwark of Savoy against the French, but was destroyed
by Louis XIV. in 1705. Pleasing survey of the valley of the
/sere, which the train now ascends. 74Y2 M, Cruet; 79 M. St.
250 Route 70. UGINE. From Chambery
Pierre d'Albigny, J unction of tbc Mt. Cenis Railway; the small
town lies l'/2 M. to the N. On a projecting crag to the left stands
the ruined castle of Miolans, once a state-prison of Savoy, destroyed
during the French Revolution.
The Mont-Cenis Railway quits the Isere here and ascends to the right
in the Maurienne Valley, watered by the Arc. Stations C/iamousset, Aigue-
belle, Epierre, La Chambre, St. Jean-de-Mavrienne. Si. Michel, La Praz, and
(46 M.) Modune. Then through the great Mont-Cenis Tunnel (_Vf2 M. long)
to Bardonneche and Turin (see Baedeker's JV. Italy).
The railway to Albertville keeps on the right bank of the Isere.
85 M. Gresy-sur-Isere, with Roman antiquities. On the left, Mon-
tailleur , with an old castle. On the opposite bank of the Isere,
Ste. Helene-des-MiUieres , with salt springs. 89 M. Frontenex,
whence a road leads to the N. over the Col de Tamie (2980') to
(11 M.) Faverges (p. 251).
931/2 M. Albertville (1181'; pop. 5086; Hot. Million, in the
market, R. 31/2) D. 3'/2 fr. ; Hot. des Balances, Grande Rue), a
pleasant town, which received its present name in 1835 in honour
of King Charles Albert of Sardinia, consists of two parts separated
by the Arly: on the right bank L'Hopital, on the left the pictur-
esque little old town of Conflans, with its pinnacled walls, over-
grown with vegetation.
Fkom Albertville to Mo6tiers-en-Tarentaise , 17 M., diligence
3 times daily in 3 hrs. (81/2 fr. ; railway in course of construction). The
road leads through the Isere Valley, which gradually narrows and be-
comes grander as we ascend , by Tours and Cevins, at the N.E. base of
the Tournetle (8050'), to (IO1/2 M.) Feissons-soiis-Briangon, with the ruined
castle of Brianron; then (12 M.) Noire Dame de Briani;on, and by Aigue-
blanche to (17 M.) Moutiers (1575' ; 1969 inh. ; Couronne; EH. Bartholi),
the ancient capital of the Tarenlaise, the seat of a bishop, and named
after a monastery founded here in the 5th century. The treasury of the
cathedral is worth seeing. A little to the S., in the pretty valley of the
Doron , are the baths of (^4 M.) Salins and (3i/2 M.) Brides-les-Bains. —
A road leads to the E. of Moutiers (diligence twice daily) through the
picturesque valley of the Isere to (17 M.) Bourg-Sl. Maurice (p. 275).
From Albertville to Beaufort, 12'/2 M. (diligence daily in 3 hrs. ;
2'/2 fr.), by a road through the picturesque Doron Valley. The little town
of Beaufort (2625'; Cfteval Blanc; Montblanc), prettily situated, is com-
manded by the chateau of La Salle. Thence through the Giite Valley to
the Col dii Bonho/nme and over the Col des Fours to Mottets, 9-10 hrs.,
with guide (IB fr.; comp. 2?2). — From Beaufort over the Col Joli to
CoNTAiMiNEs, 8 hrs., with guide, interesting on the whole. Carriage-road
through the Dorine Valley (or Vallie de Haule- Luce) , by Haute-Luce to
(3 hrs.) Belleville, thence bridle-path over the Col Joli, lying to the S.
of Mont Joli (p. 271), with a view of Mont Blanc, to (5 hrs.) Contamines
(p. 271).
The Road to Annecy (28 M.) ascends to the N. , on the right
bank of the Arly. To the left, on a steep hill, stands the church of
Pallud; on the right the Doron issues from the Vallee de Beaufort
(see above). Near (5 M.) TJgine (1510'; Soleil d'Or), a small town
(3000 inliab.) on the hill, the road quits the valley of the Arly,
and enters that of the Chaise to the left.
From Ugine to Sallanches or St. Gervais (8-9 hrs.). Road through
the picturesque valley of the Arly to (8 M.) Flumet (3008'; 1161. des Balan-
ces), a village at the InQu.x of the Arondine into the Arly. (Over the Col
to Geneva. ANNECY. 70. Route. 251
des Aravis to S(. Jean-de-Sixl^ see p. 252.) On a rock stands the ruined
castle of the ancient barons of Faucigny. (Travellers in the reverse di-
rection have to undergo custom-house formalities here.) Then (7 M.) Mi-
give (3690'; Soleil), on the water-shed between the Isere and the Arve,
shortly heyond which, as we descend, we enjoy a superb view: opposite us
towers the Aiguille de Varens (8831'), to the left lies the valley of the Arve
as far as Magland (p. 254) ; to the right rises the entire Blont Blanc chain, with
its glaciers and the summit. At (3 M.) Comhloux the road divides , the
left branch leading to (3V4 M.) Sallanclies , and the right to (4V2 M.) SI.
Gervai$(p. 254).
At Ugine the culture of the vine begins on the lower slopes
facing the S. Beyond Marlens the road quits the valley of the Chaise,
and crosses the hardly perceptible watershed of the Eau Morte, which
we now follow. 71/2 M. Faverges (1699' ; *H6t. de Geneve), with
its extensive old castle. (To Frontenex over the Col de Tamie, see
p. 250.) "VVe next reach (6 M.) Bout du Lac, a hamlet at the S.
end of the Lac d'Annecy (1463'; 9 M. long), on which a steamer
plies three times daily to Annecy in I'/o hr. : a pleasant trip. To
the right rise the rocky pinnacles of the Tournette (p. 252).
On a promontory extending far into the lake, to the left, is the
prettily situated (3 M.) Chateau Duingt (1476'). On the opposite
bank lie Talloires , the birthplace of BerthoUet (see below) , and
Menthon, with sulphur-springs and an old chateau in which St.
Bernard was born (p. 288). To the left lies Sevrier, at the foot of
the long Semnoz (see below). "We next reach (61/2 M.) —
28 M. Annecy (1476'; pop. 11,334; Gr.-E6t. Verdun, near
the lake, dear; *Gr.-H6t. d'Angleterre; Aigle), a picturesque, old-
fashioned town, the capital of the department of Haute-Savoie, with
linen-manufactories. In the 12th cent, it was the capital of the
Duchy of Genevois, and was named Anneciacum Novum, to distin-
guish it from Anneciacum Vetus, which lay a little to the N.E., on
the slope of a hill, where numerous Roman relics have been found.
The lofty old Chateau is now a barrack. Gothic Cathedral, with a
modern tower, and an ancient episcopal Palace. In the chapel of
the monastery De la Visitation repose St. Francis de Sales (d. 1622)
and St. Johanna of Chantal (d. 1641). The Promenade du Pdquier
on the lake affords a pleasant walk and line view. In the middle
of it rises the Prefecture, in front of which stands a monument to
the engineer Sommeiller, one of the constructors of the Mout-Cenis
Tunnel. On the other side of the canal issuing from the lake lies
the Jardin Public, with shady avenues, adorned with a bronze sta-
tue of the famous chemist BerthoUet (d. 1822), by Marochetti. In
the vicinity is t\\Q H6tel-de-Ville, containing a small museum, with
a handsome fountain in front of it. Annecy, with its beautiful en-
virons, is recommended as a pleasant resting-place.
Excursions. The Semnoz (5590'), to the S. of Annecy, a fine point,
easy (5 hrs.). We take the Albertville road on the S. bank of the lake
to (3 51.) Sevrier, and ascend by a road to the right to the (T'/i M.) Col
de Leschanx (3028'); bridle-path thence to the top in 1 hr. {Hdt. CrH du
C/idtillon; mountain-railway projected). Beautiful view. — The Parmelan
(6018'), to the N.E. of Annecy, is chielly interesting on account of its gro-
252 Route 70. LA ROCHE.
tesque rock -formations. Road by Sur-les-Bois and IHngy St. Clair to
(9 M. -, carr. in 2V'.! lirs., 15 fr.) La Blonniere; thence (guide not necessary
for experts) by the Chalet Chapnis and the Grand Montoir to the top in
21/2-3 hrs. (admirable panorama). — Ascent of the '' Tournette (7733), the
iine mountain to the S.E. of Annecy, attractive but diflicult (only for ex-
perts; guide 10 fr.). Road to (9 M.) Thdnes (see below), thence with
guide , by Belchamp and the Chalets du Eosairy in 5'/2 hrs. to the top.
Superb view, especially of the Mont Blanc group.
Railway to Aix-les-Bains, see p. 248. Near Lovagny, [the first station
(11 min.), are the interesting "Gorges du Fier (p. 248).
Fkom Annecy via Grand Boenand to Scioxzier, 12 hrs., attractive.
A carriage road runs by Veyrier and Alex to (4 hrs.) Thdnes (2054'; H8t.
Ciiillery), a little town prettily situated at the conlluenco of the Noiu and
the Fier (ascent of the Tournette, see above). Thence it ascends the valley
of the Norn to the E. , passing Les VUlardt to (P/i hr.) St. Jean de Sixt
(3319 5 to Sallanches, see below), beyond which it divides. The left
branch runs by Petit- Bornand to (4V'2 hrs.) Bonneville (p. 253); the right
leads through ('/■.> hr.) Grand Bornand (3053'; Inn)., a considerable village
on the Borne, to (!' •.> hr.) Venay. From Venay a bridle-path ascends over
the Col des Annes (5608') to (2 hrs.) Reposoir or Pralong (Inn) , where it
joins the carriage-road leading through the picturesque Valley of Reposoir
to (2 hrs.) Scionzier (p. 254). — From Annect over the Col ue.s Aravis
TO Sallanches, 15 hrs. , attractive. To (53/4 hrs.) St. Jean de Sixt , see
above. Thence a carriage-road leads to the S.E. in the valley of the Nom
to La Clusaz and to the (2V2 hrs.) Col des Aravis (4913), which commands
a fine view of Mont Blanc. From the Col a bridle-path descends to ('/<
hr.) La Giettaz (3640'; Hot. des Aravis), whence another carriage-road
leads to (2 hrs.) Flumet, on the road from Ugine (p. 250) to (43/4 hrs.)
Sallanches or St. Gerrais. A shorter route is offered by a foot-path lead-
ing from La Giettaz over the Col Jaillet direct to (4 hrs.) Sallanches.
The Railway from Annecy to Annemasse traverses a tunnel,
crosses the Fier, and turns to the N. into the valley of the Filliere.
On the right rises the Parmelan (p. 251). 3 M. Pringy-la-
Caille ; 6 M. St. Martin- Charvonnex ; 10 M. Oroisy-le-Plot. At
(141/2 M.) Evires (2592'; Buffet) heyond another tunnel and a
lofty viaduct, the line reaches its highest point. Travellers in the
opposite direction are subjected to the formalities of the custom-
house here, as that part of the Department of Haute-Savoie which
adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French duties (p. 253). Two
tunnels, the first 1320 yds. long.
The train now descends, making a long bend to the E., and
enters the valley of the Arve, of which it affords a beautiful survey.
Beyond (20 M.) St. Laurent is a viaduct 157' high. — 23V2 M.
La Roche-sur-Foron (1804'; Croix Blanche}, a village on theForon,
a tributary of the Arve. (To Bonneville, see p. 253.) To the left
appear the Saleves (p. 215). — 26 M. Chevrier; 28 M. Reignier.
— Then a handsome viaduct over the Viaison. Beyond (311/2 M-)
Monnetier-Mornex (p. 215) the line joins the Bellegarde and Bou-
veret Railway (p. 246), and crosses the Arve 3.t Etrembieres. 331/2 M.
Annemasse (p. 253) , where carriages are usually changed. The
railway then crosses the Foron, here the boundary between France
and Switzerland, to (36 M.) Chene-Bourg (p. 253).
371/2 M. Geneva (Eaux-Vives Station, see p. 205; tramway to
the Place du Molard and the Western Station, see p. 206).
i2 -tit V y "i.®^
^5
253
71. From Geneva to Chamonix.
i. Vi&. Sallanches.
531/2 M. Diligence starting at 7 a. m. (three diflerent vehicles, from
Grand-Quai 10, 26, and 28) in 8V2 hrs., incl. halt of 3/4 hr. for dinner at
Sallanches, returning in 7V2 hrs ('banquette' 21, there and back 36 fr.).
The extra carriages used when the dilifience is full take 2 hrs. longer.
It is advisable to secure seats in advance (chief ofCice, Grand Quai 10), and
before paying the fare, the traveller should see the seat he is to occupy.
On the return journey from Chamonix to Geneva, travellers should furnish
themselves with provisions, as no halt for dinner is made.
Carriages (p. 207). For a carriage and pair with four seats the fare
usually demanded is 100 fr. (there and back in 3 days , 150 fr.) , but by
applying to the carriage-owner in person the traveller may generally obtain
one for 70-80 fr.
Geneva, see p. 205. The road to Annemasse (steam-tramway,
see p. 207) passes a succession of villas and well-kept gardens ex-
tending to the large village of (21/4 M.) Chine (1384'). The Foron
separates Geneva from Savoy. At (27* M.) Annemasse (1427';
Hotel de la Gave, Hotel de la Paix, at the station; National, in the
village), the first French village, a station on the Geneva and Bou-
veret line (p. 246), and junction for Bellegarde (p. 246) and Annecy
(p. 252) , luggage is not examined , as that part of Savoy which
adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French customs. To the right
rises the chateau oi Etremb teres, with its four towers, at the base
of the Petit-Saleve , and beyond it lies Mornex (p. 216). We ap-
proach the Arve, and cross the Menoge by a handsome bridge. 8 M.
Arthaz.
The scenery improves. In the background rises the pyramidal
Mole (6130'). Beyond (5 M.) Nangy, on a pine-clad knoll to the
right stands the Chateau de Pierre. Near (21/2 M.) Contamines-
sur-Arve lies the old chateau of Villy, on the hill-side to the left ;
beyond the village, on a lofty rock, stands the ruined castle of
Faucigny. Then (5 M.) —
163/4 M. Bonneville (1457'; pop. 2271; Couronne; Balance'),
a little town of some importance, picturesquely situated among vine-
clad-hills, commanded by the rugged limestone rocks of the Pointe
d'Andey (6165') on the right, and the slopes of the Mole (p. 256)
on the left.
A road leads from Bonneville to the W. to (5 M.) La Roche (p. 252).
Another to the E. (diligence twice daily) by (5 M.) Marignier (where the
Giffre is crossed) and (4 M.) Chatillon to (3 M.) Taninges, on the road from
Geneva and Annemasse to Sixt (p. 256).
A handsome bridge crosses the Arve, on this side of which, to
the right, stands a monument to the Savoyards who fell in the cam-
paign of 1870-71. On the opposite bank rises a monument, 73'
high, to King Charles Felix of Sardinia. From the bridge we sud-
denly obtain a superb view of Mont Blanc , whose dazzling peaks
towering majestically at the head of the valley seem to annihilate
the intervening distance of nearly 30 M. The Aiguille du Goilter
appears first; then, from right to left, the Dome du Gouter, Mont
2^4 Route 71. .SALLANCIIES. From Geneva
Blanc itself, the Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Aiguille
du Midi, and the Aiguille Verte. The almost perfectly straight road
traverses flat meadowland, which is frequently inundated, and then
enters a broad, fertile valley bounded by lofty mountains. Opposite
(41/4 M.) Vougy the Giffre falls into the Arve. 88/4 M. Scionzier
(Buffet) lies at the entrance to the wild Reposoir Valley. (From
Scionzier to Annecy via Grand Bornand, see p. 252.) On the hill
to the left, on the road to Taninges (p. 256), is the castle of Chd-
tillon. We now cross the Arve to (I74 M.) —
26 M. Cluses (1590'; Hotel Revoz), a small town, chiefly in-
habited by watchmakers. To the left, near the entrance, an Ecole
d'Horlogerie. Beyond (3 M.) Balme (1624'), in the bluish-yellow
limestone precipice to the left, 750' above the road , is seen the
entrance to the Grotte de Balme, a stalactite-grotto hardly worth vi-
siting (2 hrs. there and back; 3 fr. each pers.).
Near (1 72 M.) Magland is a spring by the road-side, on the left,
supposed by Saussure to descend from the small Lac de Flaine
(4695') on the hill above. On the right, farther on, rise the Polnte
d'Areu (8097') and the Pointe Percee (9025'; see below), and on the
left, the bold precipices of the Aiguilles de Varens (8163'). The con-
spicuous Cascade d'Arpenaz is imposing after rain.
The valley expands. The road crosses the Arve , and leads
straight on through the broad valley, at first through wood , and
affording a continuous view of the Mont Blanc group.
3672 M. Sallanches (1788'; Hot. des Messageries ; Bellevue;
Mont Blanc^, where the diligences stop for dinner.
The Pointe Percee (9025') , commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc,
may be ascended from this point over the Chalet des Fours in b^/-> hrs.
(no difliculty for experts). — Route from Sallanches by Flumet to Alberl-
ville, see p. 250; to Annecp over the Col des Aravis, see p. 252,
The road next leads by Domancy to (4172 M.) Le Fayet (I860' ;
Hot. de laPaix; Hot. -Pens. Salomon, etc), by the bridge over
the Bon-Nant.
St. Gervais-les-Bains (2066'; Hdlel), a watering-place with sulphur-
springs, lies in the wooded ravine of Montjoie, V2 M. from the Chamonix
road, on the Bon-Nant ('Nant' being the name applied to all mountain-
streams in Savoy), which forms a waterfall at the back of the baths
('■Ca.'fcade de Or('^jm'J. ■ — A path leads in 20 min. from the baths to the
Village of St. Gervais (265'7'; "Hotel du Mont Jolt; 'Montblanc; Oeneve;
"des Etrangers, and several pensions), on the road to Contamines (p. 271),
a health-resort, prettily situated. (The village is 2 M. from Le Fayet by
the carriage-road.) — The Mont Joli (S238') may be ascended without difli-
culty from this point in 5 hrs. The descent may be made by St. Kicolas
de Veroce (in all 8 hrs.; comp. p. 271).
Pedestrians may quit the diligence at Le Fayet and walk over the
Col de la Forclaz (5105'), between the THe-Noire (5800'; not to be con-
founded with the Tete-Noire between Chamonix and Martigny) and the
Prarion (6460'), direct to Le Fouilly and Les Ilouches in 5-6 hrs. (guide de-
sirable, 6 fr.). A longer but more interesting route (6-7 hrs.) is over the
Col de Voza (p. 270).
From Le Fayet a road crosses the Arve to Chede and Servoz
(see below). The road to Chamonix on the left bank of the Arve
to Chamonix. PRALAIRE. 7U Route. 255
ascends gradually, with the torrent almost immediately below it,
passes through a cutting and enters the wooded valley of (3^/4 M.)
Le Chatelard (tavern). Through the opening of the valley appear
the Dome du Gouter (p. 264) and the jagged Aiguille du Midi
(12,610'). Beyond the inn a short tunnel; the road then returns
to the Arve for a short distance.
A road diverges here to the left and crosses the Arve to ('/•-' M.) iSe)'-
voz (Hotel Fruger), whence we may visit (in 1 hr., there and back) the
'Gorges de la Diosaz (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine, through which the
Diosciz, a torrent rising on the Buet, dashes in fine cascades. Easy access
to the gorge (rustic inn at the entrance) is afforded by a gallery, Vz M.
long, attached to the rocks. Visitors should penetrate as far as the Gorge
de Soufflet, the most imposing part, with triple waterfall (adm. 1 fr.).
47 M. Les Montees is an inn by the Pont Pelissier, over which
the old road from Servoz comes to join ours. About '/o M. farther
on, the old road ascends to the right to Le FouiUy and Les Houches
(p. 270), while the new road traverses the wild ravine of the Arve,
crossing the stream by the *Pont de Marie ( line view of the gorge) and
again higher up. The glaciers now gradually become visible, butowing
to the vastness of the mountains in which they are framed it is im-
possible at first to realise their extent. The first are the Glaciers de
Griaz and de Taconay ; then the Glacier des Bossons (p. 262) near
the village of that name, which, as it extends farthest into the valley,
is apparently the largest. A little above it the road crosses the Arve
for the last time by the Pont de Perralotaz , and 1 M. beyond it
reaches —
531/2 M. Chamonix, see p. 257.
ii. Via, Sixt.
Omnibus daily from Geneva to Sixt (40 M.), in 7 hrs. (5 fr. ; starting
from the Rue de Rive 13). From Sixt to Chamonix, bridlepath (10-11 hrs.)
via the Col d'Anterne and Col du Brevent (guide, there and back 18 fr.,
unnecessary in good weather), a very attractive expedition with splendid
views of Mont Blanc. Provisions should be carried, as nothing except
milk is to be obtained on the way.
From Geneva to (41/2 M.) Annemasse , see p. 253. At the N.
end of Annemasse the road turns to the E. (right), leaving the hill
of Montheux to the left, and skirts the foot of the Voirons to (8 M.)
La Bergue.
The Pralaire (4630'; comp. p. 216), the S. peak of the Voirons, may
be ascended via Les Gets in l'/4 hr. from Lucinges, which lies 2 M. to the
N^.E. of La Bergue. Fine view from the summit.
9 M. Bonne, a market-village, formerly fortified, on the Menoge.
— 11 M. Pont de FiUinges (1785'; inn). The road now quits the
Menoge, at a point 41/0 M. to the S. oi Bo'ege, whence starts the
most convenient route to the £6 M.) Voirons, ascends the valley of
the Foron to the right, and soon after surmounting the watershed
between the Menoge and Giffre (2065'), passes (15 M.) Ville-en-
Sallaz, situate<l to the left. Thence it descends to the right, be-
tween the Pointe des Brasses (4940') and the Mole (6130'), to —
250 Route 71. SIXT. From Geneva
171/2 M. St. Jeoire (1925'; Couronne'), a market-village of 1750
iiihal)., with the chateau of Flechere and a statue of SommeiUer, one
of the engineers of the Mont Cenis Tunnel.
The Hole (6130'). which commands a fine view of the valley of the
Arve and of Slont Blanc, may he ascended in 4'/2 hrs. from St. Jeoire,
via the hamlet of Moutrenaz and the chalets of Pitiget, Char d^Amont, Char
d^Aval, and Ecutieux. Riding is practicable to within 1 hr. of the summit.
The road now ascends a narrow gorge, which it quits for the
valley of the Giffre, to the left. 21 M. Mieussy (2225'; inns), at the
W. base of the Pointe de Marcelly (7105'), which may be ascended
in 5 hrs. (with guide). In front rise the Buet and Mont Blanc.
The road rounds the conical Roc de Suets to —
26 M. Taninges (2100'; Lion d'Or; Balances), a busy little
town of 2253 inhab., with a College in an old abbey. The road to
Bonneville and Cluses via Chatillon (see p. 254) diverges here to
the right.
The Pointe de Harcelly (7105') may be ascended hence in 41/2 hrs. by
a steep path via Les Pontets and the chalets of Grand Planay. — A road
leads M.K. from Taninges, viet Les Oels (3865'), to (13V2 M.) St. Jean d^Aulpk
(p. 339) in the valley of the Drance.
We proceed straight on through the valley of the Giffre to —
35 M. Samoens (2490'; Croix d'Or; Hotel du Commerce, un-
pretending), a little town of 2540 inhab., lying at the foot of Mont
Crion (7380'). Fine view from the little chapel above the church
(10 min.).
From Samoens to (61/2 hrs.) Clwmpiry in the Val d'Uliez, over the Col
de la Gol'ese and the Col de Cou.r, see p. 242. — From Samoens two passes
lead to the N.: to the left the Col de Jouplane (5635'); to the right the
Col de la Golise (5480") to (4 hrs.) Morzine (p. 239).
Beyond Samoens, on the right (S.) side of tlie valley, the Cas-
cade du Nant d'Ant falls from a height of 690'. Bending to the S.,
the road enters a ravine in which the Giffre forms a fall , 160' in
height. As the valley expands we see in front of us the precipices
of the Buet, to our right the Pointe de Salles, and the Pointe des
Places, and to our left the Pointe de Tanneverge (see below).
40 M. Sixt or L'Abhaye de Sixt (2480' ; Hot.-Pens. du Fer lI
Cheval, in an old monastery, unpretending, R. & L. 3, B. I'Aj,
D. 3 fr.).
Environs. In spring, when the brooks are swollen by the melting
snow, the neighbourhood of Sixt abounds in fine waterfalls, there being
no fewer than thirty in the upper part of the valley alone , called from
its shape Vallee du Fer a Cheval. In summer and autumn, however, the
number dwindles to five or six. An attractive excursion may be made
through the debris of a landslip of 1602, to the Fond de la Combe, at the
head of the valley, with a waterfall.
From Sixt over the Col de Sagerou (7917') to Champe'ry (9 hrs., with
guide, difficult), see p. 242. — The Poiqte de Tanneverge (9780'), by the
Col de Tanneverge, in 9 hrs., is a diflicult ascent, but commands a splen-
did view. — The Pointe Pelouse (8118'), ascended via the Lac de Gers in
6 hrs., presents no difficulty; line view of Mont Blanc. The descent may
be made by the Disert de Plate and the Escaliers de Plat^ to St. Gervais
(p. 254), by a dizzy path, recalling the Gemmi.
to Chamonix.
CHA.MONIX. 72. Route. 257
From Sixt to Chamonix via the Bdet, 13-14 hrs., fatiguing but inter-
esting (guide necessary, 23 fr. incl. return). To the C/<aleis des Fonds, see
below. Thence the route leads to the left to the (2V2 hrs.) Col Lichaud
or des Fonds (7325'), and ascends over loose stones and snow to the top
of the 'Buet (10,M)'), which commands a magnificent view of the Mont
Blanc range, Monte Kosa, the Matterhorn, the Bernese Alps with the Jung-
frau and the Finsteraarhorn , the Dent du Midi, and the Jura as far as
the mountains of Dauphine. A somewhat difficult descent leads down to
(2 hrs.) the C/ialet de la Pierre a Birard (6330; inn), and through the
Vallie de Berard to Argenliire and (4 hrs.) Chamonix (see below).
The bridle-path from Sixt to the Col d'Anterne ascends the
Vallie des Fonds to the S., past a picturesque waterfall on the right
to (*/o hr.) Salvayny (in front rises the beautiful Pointe de Salles),
and beyond the Cascade du Rouget (right) to the (I'/o lir.) Chalet
des Fonds (4550'; Alpine fare), near which is 'Eagle's Nest', the
summer residence of Mr. Wills, at the foot of the Buet (see above).
About 5 mln. farther up we ascend to the right (the path to the
left leads to the Col Le'chaud, see above), following a wide curve
past the Chalets de Grasse-Chevre to (1 hr.) the saddle of the Bas
du Col d'Anterne. Then leaving the Chalets d'Anterne below us to
the right, we cross the pastures of that name, and skirt the Lac
d'Anterne to (I'/o tr.) the *Col d'Anterne (7425'), where a magni-
flcent survey of Mont Blanc suddenly breaks upon our sight. We
descend to the left (the path to the right leads in 21/.2 hrs. to Ser-
voz), in view of the Aiguilles Rouges, into the valley of the Diosaz,
which we cross after i^/o hr. by a wooden bridge (5532'). We once
more ascend, to the (1^/2 hr.) Col du Brerent (8075'), which also
commands a fine view of Mont Blanc. Thence the descent leads
chiefly through wood, via Planpraz and Les Chabkttes (p. 262) to
(2 hrs.) Chamonix.
72. Chamonix and Environs.
Hotels. *H6t. iMPfiBIAL, *HoT. DE LoNDRES ET D'ANGLETEBEE, "^'HoT.
RoTAL ET DE Saussure ; at these, R., L., & A. 4-5 fr. and upwards, B. 1V2>
D. 5fr.; 'Hot. du Montblanc, R., L., & A. 372-5, D. 5 fr. ; *Hot.-Pess.
CouTTET, R., L., & A. 3'/2-4, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. des Alpes, R. L., & A. 4,
D. 4, pens. 8-9 fr. — Unpretending: 'Hotel Bead-Site, in an open situation
at the S. end of the village, R. 2, D. 31/2 fr-; 'Hotel de France, R. from 2,
B. IV4, pens. 5-7 fr. ; 'Hot. Suisse; 'Hot. -Pens, de la Poste; Hot. de la
Paix, well spoken of; 'Croix Blanche, R. & L. 2, B. 174, U. 3fr. ; Ba-
lances ; RfiUNioN des Amis ; de la Tebbasse, with cafe. — Cafi Carrier.
Guides. A guide is unnecessary for the Monlenvert, the FUgire, the
Brevent, and the Pierre Pointue. The paths are so minutely described in the
following pages that they can hardly be mistaken, while opportunities of
asking the way are also frequent. Visitors to the Chapeau need only
engage a guide for the passage of the Mer de Glace to or from the Chapeau
(p. 260). The following extract is from the ^RigUment et Tarif des Guides
de Chamonix'. Travellers are provided with guides by the Guide-Che/., who
is bound to employ each in turn, the traveller having no choice except in
these cases : (1) When a course extraordinaire (see p. 258) is contemplated ;
(2) When an excursion is made for scientific purposes ; (3) When the
traveller speaks no French, and the guide is unacquainted with the lan-
guage of the traveller; (4) When travellers have previously employed a
certain guide and desire to re-engage the same ; (5) When ladies travelling
Baedekbk, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 17
258 Route 72.
CHAMONIX.
Guidea' Tariff.
alone wish to engage a particular guide ; (6) When the traveller is a meiulior
of an Alpine club.
The excursions are divided into Courses Ordinaires and Courses Hxtra-
ordinaires. A complete tariff may be had of the Guide-Chef.
CouKSES Ordinaires :
Glacier des Bossons and back 5fr.
Montenvert and back ... 6fr.
Montenvert,Merde Glace, Cha-
peau, and back 9fr.
Montenvert, Mer de Glace,
Chapeau, Flegere, and back
in one day 12 fr.
Flegere and back 6 fr.
Pierre Pointue 8; including
the Aiguille de la Tour or
Pierre a TEchelle 9 ; or with
the Plan de TAiguille . . 10 fr.
Col de Balme 8; back by Tete
Noire 9; or by Barberine,
incl. Cascades de Barberine
and de Berard in one day 9,
in two days 12 fr.
Ascent of Buet and down to
Sixt, incl. return-fee, in owe
day 23, in two days . . . 28 fr.
Martigny by the Col de Balme
or TSte-Noire , or to Ver-
nayaz by Salvan ....
Brevent by Planpraz 10 , by
the Flegere and down by
Planpraz
Brevent by Plan Bel Achat
10, Lac du Brevent 9, Plan
Bel Achat
Jardin,and back byChapeau 14 ;
with night on Montenvert
Mer de Glace d'Argentiere 8,
to the 'glacier-circus' in one
day 12, in two days . . .
Sixt by the Brevent and Col
d'Anterne in one day (incl.
return-fee)
Sixt by Servoz and Col d'An-
terne
Pavilion de Bellevue, Col de
Voza, or Prarion ....
Contamines by the Col du
Tricot
Courses Extraordinaikes :
Mont Blanc 100 fr.
Grands Mulets and back in one
day 20, in two days 30, Grand
Plateau 50, Dome du Gouter
60, Corridor or Bosses du
Dromadaire 70 fr.
Courmayeur by the Col de la
Brenva80 ; Cols de Trelatete,
d'Argentiere , de Pierre-.Io-
seph,desHirondelles60;Cols
du Gdant, de Triolet, du Char-
donnet
Aiguille Verte 100, Grandes
Jorasses 80, Aig. d'Argen-
tiere and du Chardonnet 65,
Aig. du Midi 60, Aig. du
Tour
Glacier - excursions on the
Mont Blanc chain, above the
zone of vegetation, per day
12 fr.
12 fr.
8fr.
10 fr.
18 fr.
18 fr.
18 fr.
8fr.
15 fr.
50 fr.
50 fr.
10 fr.
The guides are bound on the 'courses ordinaires' to carry baggage not
exceeding 24 lbs. ; on the 'courses extraordinaires', 14 lbs. only. — The
following are recommended for difficult expeditions: Francois Siinond, Midi.
Charlet; Jean Bapt. Croz; Ed. and Aug. Cupelin; Francois, Henri, and
Michel Devouasoud; Mich. Ducroz; Fred, and M. FoUiquet; Aug. and Alex.
Paccard; Alph. , Michel and Frid. Payot; Ben. Simon; Michel, Sim., and
Tob. Tairrai; A. Tournier; Gasp. Simond.
Horses and Mules. With the exception of the excursion to the Mon-
tenvert and Chapeau (9 fr.) , and, to the Montenvert for the purpose of
visiting the Jardin, and back to Chamonix in the evening (8 fr.), the same
charges are made as for the 'courses ordinaires' of the guides, and as much
more is charged for the attendant.
The Collection of Pictures of M. Loppi, a talented painter of Alpine
scenery, situated behind the Hotel Royal, on the way to the Montenvert,
is worth seeing. Admission gratis.
English Church Service during the season.
Points of Interest. The traveller should devote three or four days at least
to Chamonix, but those who have one day only at command should ascend
the Montenvert (p. 259) in the morning (2V2 hrs.), cross the Mer de Glace
(p. 260) to the (I'/a hr.) Chapeau (p. 260), descend to (1 hr.) Les Tines
(p. 261), ascend the Fi.ftGfiRE (p. 261; 2^2 hrs.), and descend thence in
-5 > ■= iS-
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Montenvert. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 259
13/4 hr. to Chamonix. Early in the morning the path to the Montenvert
is in shade, in the afternoon that to the Flegere at least partly so ; and by
this arrangement we reach the Fle'gere at the time when the light is
most favourable for the view of Mont Blanc. For this excursion a guide
(to be found on the Montenvert) is necessary for the Mer de Glace only.
Riders send their mules round from Montenvert to Les Tines or the Chapeau
to meet them. The e.xcursion to the Flegere alone takes 5 hrs., and that to
the Blontenvert or the Chapeau about the same time. — Those who come
from the E., and have spent the night at Argentiire, should leave the road
near Lavancher (p. 265) and proceed by the Chapeau , the Mer de Glace
(comp. , however, p. 260) and Montenvert to Chamonix. The Fle'gere
may also be reached from La Joux fp. 265), on the right bank of the Arve ;
but the path is bad and unsuitable for riding, and cannot be found with-
out a guide (boy l-lVi; fr.).
On a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the heights are concealed,
the Glacier des Bossons (p. 262) is the best object for a walk (there and
back 3 hrs.). — To the Cascade de BLAixifiRE, on the hill-side to the E. of
Chamonix, 1/2 hr. (hardly worth seeing ; adm. 1/2 fr.). — To the Pavillon
DE LA Pierre Pointde (p. 263) and back, 5-6 hrs. ; or, including the Aiguille
de la Tour and Pierre a TEchelle, a whole day. — To the Jardin (p. 261)
from the Montenvert (where the night is spent) and back, 7-8 hrs. (from
Chamonix and back 11-12 hrs. ; guide necessary). — Ascent of the BRfivENi
(p. 261) and back, 7 hrs. ; ascent or descent by the Flegere 2 hrs. more.
The *Valley of Chamonix (3445'; pop. about 4000), or Cha-
mouny, 12 M. long, 1/2 M. wide, watered by the Arve, runs from
N.E. to S.W., from the Col de Balme to Les Houches. It is bounded
on the S.E. by the Mo7it Blanc chain, with its huge ice-cataracts, the
Glacier du Tour, d'Argentiere, des Bois (Mer de Glace), and des Bos-
sons; and on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges and the Brevent.
A Benedictine priory first brought the valley into cultivation at the
beginning of the 12th cent., but the reputation of the inhabitants was for
a long period so bad that when St. Francis de Sales , Bishop of Geneva
(1602-22), visited the then pathless wilds on foot, this was considered an
act of the utmost temerity. The valley became better known in 1743,
when the celebrated traveller Pococke and a Mr. Wyndham visited and
explored it in all directions , and published their observations in the Mer-
ciire Suisse. Curiosity and enterprise were further stimulated by the publi-
cations of the Genevese naturalists de Saussure, de Luc , Bourrit , Pictet,
and others. Since that time Chamonix has become a great centre of at-
traction for travellers , especially English, American, and French, and is
visited by upwards of 15,000 annually. It is inferior to the Bernese Ober-
land in picturesqueness of scenery , but superior in the grandeur of its
glaciers, in which respect it has no rival but Zermatt.
In front of the Hotel Royal, where the route to Mont Blanc (to
the right) diverges from that to the Mer de Glace (to the left), rises
the *Saussure Monument, unveiled in August, 1887, on the cen-
tenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, and consisting of a bronze
group (by Salmson of Geneva) on a granite pedestal , representing
Saussure conducted by Balmat (p. 263); inscription: 'a H. B. de
Saussiire Chamonix reconnaissant'. Another small monument to
Balmat stands in front of the church.
The *Montenvert, or Montanvert (6303' ; 21/2 hrs. ; guide un-
necessary), an eminence on the E. side of the valley, is visited for
the sake of the view it affords of the vast 'sea of ice'which fills the
highest gorges of the Mont Blanc chain in three branches (Glacier
du Gennt or du Tacul, Glacier de Leschau.v, and Glacier de Ta-
il*
260 Route 72. CHAMONIX. Chapenu.
I'efre), and which descends 'into the valley in a huge stream of ice,
about 41/2 M. long and 1/2" ^ 'A ^I- broad, called the Mer de Glace
above the Montenvert, and the Glacier des Bois below it. The bridle-
path leads to the left by the Hotel Royal, passes the little English
church, and crosses the meadows (to the left of the cemetery-wall) to
the C'A^'"-) houses of Les Mouilles. We now ascend through pine-
wood to the right (again turning to the right after 1/4 hr.}, past the
(10 min.) Chalets des Planards, to (40 min.) Le Caillet (4880';
refreshm.), a spring by the wayside. Farther on (12 min.), a bridle-
path to the left descends to Les Bois (p. 261). Our path ascends
gradually through wood to the (1 hr.) *H6tel du MontenveTt(R., L., &
A. 4, lunch 4, D. 5, pens. 9 fr.), at the top of the hill, commanding
the *Mer de Glace and the mountains around it : opposite us rises the
huge Aiguille du Dru (12,517') ; behind it, to the left, is the snow-
clad Aiguille Verte (13,540') and lower down, the Aig. du Bochard
(8765'), to the right the ^jjr. du Moine (11,214') ; farther distant
are the Grandes Jorasses (13,800'), the Mont Mallet (13,085'), and
the Aig. du Ge'ant (13,160'); and immediately to our right tower
the Aiguilles de Charmoz (11,295') and de Blaitiere (11,595').
From the Montenvert travellers usually cross the Mer de Glace
to the (1 V4"1V2 hr.) Chapeau, opposite. A path descends the left
lateral moraine to ('/ihr.) the glacier (where guides are generally to
be found at the hut; woollen socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). The
passage of the glacier (15-20 min.; guide, unnecessary for the ex-
perienced, 1^/2 ir., or to the Chapeau 5 fr.) presents no difficulty.
On the opposite side we ascend over loose stones and debris to the
(5 min.) top of the right lateral moraine (refreshmts.) , skirting
which we then descend by a narrow path to the 'Mauvais Pas', a
steep rock, where the path is hewn in steps and flanked with iron
rods attached to the rocks, and the (40 min.) Chapeau. (Elderly
travellers and those subject to giddiness, are to be dissuaded from
attempting the Mauvais Pas.) Guides for travellers making this ex-
cursion in the reverse direction are not always to be found at the
Chapeau ; if required, they should be brought from Chamonix (from
the Hot. du Mauvais Pas at Lavancher, 6 fr. , see below).
The ""Chapeau (5082' ; Inn, dear), a projecting rock on the N.E.
side of the Glacier des Bois, at the base of the Aiguille du Bochard,
is considerably lower than the Montanvert, but commands an ex-
cellent survey of the ice-fall of the Glacier des Bois and the Cha-
monix Valley. In the background Mont Mallet (13,085') and the
Aiguille du Giant (13,160') ; to the right the Aiguilles de Charmoz
(11,295'), de Blaitiere (11,595'), ^m Pian (12,050'), and du Midi
(12,610'), the Bosses du Dromadaire ('14,950'), the Dome du Gouter
(14,210'), and the Aig. du Gouter (12,710').
A bridle-path descends the moraine from the Chapeau, in view
of the precipices of the Glacier des Bois and the Aiguille du Dru,
and then through pine-wood to (40 min.) the Hotel du Mauvais Pas
LA CMMHl B¥ MOlf IILAIC -^m. m la f lal'iSlBl.
O
r
Fleghe. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 261
(p. 265). Here it divides: to the right to (10 nun.) Lavancher, to
the left to (20 min.) Les Tines (p. 265). The route hence to the
FMgeie crosses the Arve at the inn '^ la Mer de Glace', then leads
to the left through wood and pastures to (20 min.) the beginning
of the zigzag path (see below). A shorter path, but rough at places,
and unfit for riding, diverges from the path to Les Tines (20 min.
from the Chapeau) to the left, and descends the moraine (passing the
Source of the Arveyron below on the left) to Les Bois and (40 min.)
Les Praz (see below).
The ■ Jardin (9145'; guide necessary, p. 259) is a triangular rock rising
from the midst of the Olacier de Talifre, and walled in by moraines.
Around a spring in the midst of this oasis Alpine flowers bloom in August.
From the Montenvert, where the night is passed, we skirt the somewhat
dizzy rocks oi Les Fonts to the right and traverse the moraine to the Angle;
here we take to the crevassed Mer de Glace, and ascend it for 2V2-3 hrs.
to the foot of the Siracs de TaUfre. We now turn to the right , ascend
past the Pierre a Biranger., on the S. side of the Seracs t'A-l hr- j a
wooden hut halfway up) , and cross the Talefre Glacier to the (25 min.)
Jardin. This excursion makes us acquainted with the grand icy wilds of
the Mont Blanc group ; though somewhat fatiguing, it presents no difficulty
to good walkers, and is even undertaken by ladies. Provisions necessary.
The *Flegere (5925'; ascent from Chamonix 3, descent 2 hrs.),
to the N. of Chamonix, is a buttress of the Aiguille de la Floria
(9690') , one of the highest peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges. We fol-
low the Argentiere road to (IV'2 M.) Les Chables. The direct foot-
path diverges to the left immediately on this side of the Arve bridge,
leading in 12 min. through pastures (marshy at places) to the foot
of the mountain, where the ascent begins. [The bridle-route, a few
minutes longer, crosses the Arve to Les Praz (p. 265), diverges to the
left at the last house (guide-post), crosses the Arve and is joined by
the path mentioned above.] We now ascend the stony slope in long
zigzags. After 35 min. we enter the wood to the right, pass (35 min.)
the Chalet des Praz (auberge), and in 1 hr. more reach the Croix de
la Flegere (Couttet's Inn, well spoken of, lunch S^jo, pens. 5-6 fr.).
The *View(comp. Panorama) embraces the entire chain of Mont Blanc,
from the Col de Balme to beyond the Glacier des Bossons. Opposite
us lies the basin of the Olacier des Bois (Mer de Glace), enclosed by
the sharply defined Aiguilles : to the left the Aig. du Dru and the
huge snow-clad Aig. Verte; to the right the Aiguilles de Charmoz,
de Blaitiere, du Plan, and du Midi. The summit of Mont Blanc is
also distinctly seen, but is less striking than the lower peaks owing
to its greater distance. The jagged pinnacles of the Aiguilles Rouges
also present a singular appearance. Evening light most favourable.
From the Flegere the bridle-path continues to (1 hr.) the Chalet de la
Floria, from which the Aiguille de la Floria (9635'), atTording a magni-
ficent view to the W. as far as the Lake of Geneva, may be ascended,
with guide, in 3 hrs. — Those bound from the Fk'gere to Argentiere may
descend direct to La Joii.v (comp. p. 259). M. Couttet will point out the
way (hardly to bo mistaken on the descent).
The *Brevent (8274'), the S.W. prolongation of the Aiguilles
Rouges, affords a similar but finer view. While from the Fle'gere the
262 Eoule 72. CHAMONIX. Pierre Poinlue.
Mer de Glace and tlie Aiguille Verte are the chief features , Mont
Blanc is here revealed in all its grandeur ; to the right of the Buet
and the Aiguilles Rouges we also see the Bernese Alps, and to the
8.W. the Alps of the Dauphine. The new bridle-path (4'/2 hrs.)
leads from Chamonix to the W., passing the hamlets oi La Mola
and Les Mossons, and ascends through wood to {^l^/2^T.)Plan Nachat
(4833' ; auberge), an admirable point of view ; and then in numer-
ous zigzags to the (^i-^/t hr.) Plan Bel Achat (6975'; restaurant with
beds, dear), on a saddle to the S.W. of the summit. Thence to the
top, passing the sombre little Lac du Prevent, IY4 hr. more.
Or we may ascend the 'Chemin Muletier de Chamonix a Sixt' past
the Restaurant des Chahlettes to (3 hrs.) Planpraz (6770'; Inn, dear); then
mount rather steeply to the left, and lastly through a rocky gully (la C/ie-
minie, provided with hars to assist climhers but, especially for the descent,
recommended only to experts) to the (IV4 hr. ; guide 1(J fr.) summit. — The
Brevent may also be combined with the Flegere. The 'Route de Planpraz',
a well-defined path, diverges to the right from the Flegere path, about
20 min. below the Croix de la Flegere, and follows the slope of the moun-
tain, in full view of the Mont Blanc chain, passing the Chalets de Charlanoz
halfway, to the (2 hrs.) inn of Planpraz (p. 257), which is visible from the
Flegere.
To the *Glacier des Bossons an interesting walk (3 hrs. there
and back; guide necessary for crossing the glacier, from Chamonix
6, from the chalet on the left side of the glacier 2 fr. ; woollen
socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). On the left bank of the Arve we
pass the hamlets of Le Praz Conduit, Les Barats, and (by the upper
path, to the left) Les Tsours ; here we turn to the left, ascend through
wood on the right bank of the brook to the (25 min.) Cascade du
Dard (auberge) , a fine double fall, and then cross the broad stony
bed of the Nant des Pelerins. (After 5 min. the path to the Pierre
Pointue diverges to the left; see below.) Beyond two more brooks
we reach the (^2 hr.) high moraine of the Qlacier des Bossons, and
cross the glacier in about 1/4 hr. to the Pavilion Fonciere (auberge)
on the left moraine. Fine view of the huge glacier, which has be-
gun to advance of late, overshadowed by the Mont Blanc du Tacul
(13,943'). On the left rise the Aiguilles du Midi (12,610') and de
Blaitiere (11,595'). A visit to the grotto hewn in the glacier, 85 yds.
long, is interesting (adm. and lights 1 fr.). We descend by Les
Bossons to the Pont de Perralotaz (p. 265), and return to Cha-
monix by the high-road on the right bank of the Arve.
The *Pavillon de la Pierre Pointue (6722') is another favour-
ite point (bridle-path, 2Y2-3 hrs.; horse 8fr. ; guide unnecessary).
Beyond the bridge across the Nant des Pelerins (1/9 hr.; see above)
we diverge to the left and ascend in zigzags on the side of a wild val-
ley, through which the Nant Blanc dashes over rocks, to the (1 hr.)
Chalet de la Para (5205'). Then through wood and pastures to the
(I1/4 hr.) Pavilion de la Pierre Pointue (Restaur., dear), on the brink
of the huge Glacier des Bossons, with its beautiful ice-fall. Opposite,
apparently quite near, rise Mont Blanc, the Dome du Gouter, the
Aiguille du Gouter, etc.; also a superb view to the N. and W.
Mont Blanc. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 263
An interesting point is the Aiguille de la Tour, wbicli commands the
best survey of the Glacier des Bossons ('/z hr., guide desirable-, ascend
to the left by the pavilion). — The Pierre a I'Echelle (7910') is another
fine point (I'A br. ; guide advisable). The narrovy path (route to Mont
Blanc, see below) leads by the pavilion to the right, round an angle of
rock, and ascends to the brink of the Glacier des Bossons (where falling
stones are sometimes dangerous). Admirable view of the riven ice-masses
of the glacier; above them the Aiguille du Gouter, the Dome du Gouter,
the Bosses du Dromadaire, and the highest peak of Mont Blanc ; in the
foreground are the Grands Mulets (see below), 2V2 hrs. distant (guide
necessary). — A pleasant way back from the Pierre Poiutue is by the Flan
de I'Aiguille (U/z hr. ; no defined path, guide advisable), over grassy slopes
and the moraine of the Glacier des Pelerins. We then ascend a little to
the Plan de PAiguJlle, or La Tapiaz (7487'), lying at the foot of the pinn-
acles of the Aiguille du Plan (12,053') and the Aiguille du Midi (12,610').
Superb view of the valley of Chamonix, with the Bernese Oberland and
Dauphine Mts. in the distance. We descend by the Chalets sur le Rocker to
Tsours (p. 262) and (2 hrs.) Chamonix.
Mont Blanc (15,730'), the monarch of European mountains
(Monte Rosa 15,365', Finsteraarhorn 14,025', Ortler 12,800'; the
Pic de Ne'thou , the highest of the Pyrenees, 11,170'), which since
1860 has formed the boundary between France and Italy, is composed
chiefly of Alpine granite or protogine. It was ascended for the first
time in 1786 by the guide Jacques Balmat, and by Dr. Paccard the
same year. In 1787 the ascent was made by the naturalist H. B.
de Saussure, with eighteen guides , and described by him with his
valuable scientific observations ; in 1825 it was accomplished by Dr.
E. Clarke and Captain Sherwill, and in 1827 by Mr. Auldjo. In
summer the ascent is now made almost daily, but travellers are cau-
tioned against attempting it in foggy or stormy weather , as fatal
accidents have not unfrequeutly occurred on the mountain. The
view from the summit is unsatisfactory. Owing to their great dis-
tance, all objects appear indistinct; even in the clearest weather
the outlines only of the great chains, the Swiss Alps, the Jura, and
the Apennines are distinguishable.
According to the regulations laid down by the authorities of Chamo-
nix, one traveller ascending Mont Blanc requires two guides (100 fr. each)
and one porter (50 fr.), each additional member of the party one guide
more ; but for experienced mountaineers one guide and one porter suffice.
When the 'hotel bill' on the Grands-Mulets and other items are added, the
minimum cost of the ascent usually comes to 220-250 fr. for one person. On
the first day travellers usually ascend by the Pavilion de la Pierre Pointiie
(p. 262) to the (7 hrs.) Grands-Mulets (10,007'; /«» with 4 rooms; bed, L.,&A.
12, B. 3, D. 6, Vin ordinaire 41/2 fr.) ; on the second they proceed by the Petit-
Plateau to the (3 hrs.) Grand-Plateau (12,900'), and, bearing to the right (the
usual route), ascend by the D6me du GoUter and the Bosses du Dromadaire,
where it is proposed to erect a hut at the height of 14,600' (or to tlic
left by the Corridor, the Mur de la Cote, and the^Pelits-Mulels, 15,310') to
the summit in 3-4 hours. They descend the same day to the Grands-
Mulcts, and on the third day regain Chamonix (or the whole descent
may be made on the second day). — Fuom St. Gervais (p. 254), by the Col
de i'oza (p. 270), to the (S-tO hrs.) Cabane (12,530'; spend night), on the
S. side of the Aiguille du Goiller (12,710'); thence by the Dome du Gouter
and the Bosses (see above) in 5-6 hrs. to the top. — From Cockmatkui:
(p. 274) 16 hrs. ; to the Mont Fritij 21/2, Col du Giant 31/2-4 hrs.; thence
over the Glacier du Giant and through the VaXUe Blanche in 2','2 hrs. to
the Cabane du Tacul (11,693'), at the S. base of the Aiguille du Midi
264 Route 72. COLDUGfiANT.
(12,610'), where the night is spent. Lastly a toilsome ascent of 7-8 hrs.
on the ice-slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit to the Corridor
and the summit. Another route leads from the Combal Lake (p. 273)
across the Glacier de Miage to the (7-8 hrs.) Ri/ngio Qtiintino Sella (about
11,975') on the Rocher du Mont Blanc, whence the top is attained in 6-7 hrs.
The ascent over the Glacier du Brouillard is very difficult and hazardous.
— A most interesting excursion, free from danger, is the ascent of the
Dome du Gouter (14,210' ; see above), 4-4V2 hrs. from the Grands Mulets ;
guide from Chamonix 60 fr.
Tour du Mont Blanc, see R. 75.
From Chamonix to CouKMATEnR over the Col du 66ant, 15-16 hrs.,
a trying glacier-pass, but most interesting, and for adepts not difficult
(guide 50, porter 30 fr.). After a night at the Bote! du Montenvert (p. 260)
we traverse the upper part of the Mer de Glace and the Glacier du Tacul,
or du Giant, the jagged 'se'racs' of which must sometimes be mounted by
ladders. On the right we pass the Mont Blanc du Tacul (13,943'), and on
the left the Aiguille or Dent du Giant (13,160' ; first ascended by the brothers
Sella in 1882), and in about 6 hrs. reach the Col du Geant (10,980'), between
the Aiguille de Saussure (11,570') on the right and the Aiguilles Marbries
(11,605') on the left, with two refuge-huts and splendid view. We then
descend almost perpendicular rocks on the S. side to the Pavilion du
Mont Frity (p. 274) and Courmayeur. — Other passes over the BIont
Blanc range from Chamonix to Courmayeur (all very difficult, and for
thorough adepts only): the Col de Triolet (11,456') at the head (E. end) of
ih^ Glacier de TaUfre, between ihe. Aig. de Triolet and itiQ Aig. de Tali/re;
the Col de Pierre-Joseph (11,415'), to the S. of the Aig. de TaUfre; the
Col des Hirondelles (11,420') between the Perthes and the Grandes Jorasses;
the Col de Miage (11,165'), S. of the Aig. de Miage (13,150' ; 2hr8. below the
Col. at the foot of the Aiguille Grise, a refuge-hut of the Italian Alpine
Club, 9840'). — Col Dolent, see p. 265. Col de TrelatHe, see p. 271. —
From Chamonix to ORsrfiKES over the Col du Chardonnet and the
Fenetre de Saleinaz, or over the Col d^Argenti&re, see p. 265; Col du Tour,
see p. 269.
From Chamonix to Sixt over the Col du Briveni and the Col d'An-
teme, see p. 257. Over the Buel, see p. 257.
73. From Chamonix to Martigny via the Tete-Noire,
or to Vernayaz via Triquent and Salvan.
Comp. Maps. pp. 252, 258.
Road to Chatelard 4V4 hrs. ; thence over the Tete-Noire to Martigny
41/4 hrs., or by Salvan to Vernayaz 4 hrs. — The Martignt Road, beyond
Chatelard , is narrow, and bad at places (driving not advisable in wet
weather); carr. and pair for one person 50 fr., for each additional person
10 fr. more (to Argentiere only, 6, 7, 8, 10 fr.); to Tour 9, 10, 11, 15 fr.;
to Chatelard 30, 30, 35, 40 fr.). From Martigny to Trient 1-3 pers. 30,
4 pers. 40 fr.; Tete-Noire 35 or 45, Chatelard 40 or 50 fr. ; Chamonix,
1-2 pers. 50, 3 pers. 60, 4 pers. 70 fr. (if a night is spent on the way,
15 fr. more). The use of return-carriages is prohibited in both directions,
unless the same hirer engages the vehicle to go and return. The traveller
should stipulate for the use of the same vehicle all the way; and if he in-
tends continuing his journey by rail from Martigny or Vernayaz, payment
may be made conditional on catching the train. — From Vernayaz to
Chamonix a small gig for 1-2 pers. 50 fr. (from Chamonix to Vernayaz
65 fr., changing carriages at Chatelard); office at Vernayaz opposite the
Grand Hotel des Gorges du Trient. — Guide (12 fr.) for either route of
course superfluous. Luggage may be sent on by carriage by arrangement
with the porter of the hotel (IV2-2 fr.).
Two Roads and a Bridle-Path connect the valley of Chamonix with
the Valais. A road leads from Chamonix by Argentiere and Valorcine
ARGENTILIRE. 73. Route. 265
to Chatelard, whence one road to the right leads by the Tete- Noire,
Trient, and the Col de la Forclaz to Martigny, and the other to the left
to Finhaut, Salvan, and Vernayaz. The bridle-path diverges to the right
from the road at Argentiere, crosses the Col de Balme, and rejoins the
road at the Col de la Forclaz. Of these routes the road over the Tete-
Noire to Martigny is the most frequented, but is less interesting than that
to Salvan and Vernayaz, which affords finer and more varied views. The
path over the Col de Balme, on the other hand, though less interesting
on the whole, commands a superb view of the valley of Chamonix and
Mont Blanc, which are not seen to advantage from the other routes. Tra-
vellers from Martigny, approaching Mont Blanc for the first time, should
therefore choose the Col de Balme in clear weather.
The road ascends the valley and crosses the Arve to (II/2M.) Les
Praz (*H6t.-Pens. du Chalet des Praz ; Pens. Couttet, 'a la Mer de
Glace'; both moderate). The village of Les Bois and the Glacier des
Bois remain on the right. At (l^/o M.) Les Tines (*A la Mer de
Glace; Au Touriste) a path to the Chapeau diverges to the right
(p. 261). The road ascends through a wooded defile to (2/4 M.) La-
vancher (3848'; *H6t.-Pens. du Mauvais Pas, 10 min. above the
road, R. 2, pens, from 5 fr.); to the Chapeau, see p. 260. About
'/o M. farther a bridge crosses the Arve to La Joux, situated to the
left, behind a hill. (Ascent of the Flegere, seep. 261.) We next
pass the hamlets of Les lies, Grasonet, and (1 M.) Les Chosalets,
cross the Arve, and reach (2/4 M.) —
6 M. Argentiere (3963'; *Couronne , R. , L. , &A.4, D. 4,
pens. 6-7 fr. ; Bellevue^, a considerable village, where the huge
glacier of that name descends into the valley between the Aiguille
Verte (13,540') and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (12,540').
'Glacier d' Argentiere. Bridle-path from Argentiere to the (2 hrs.) Pa-
vilion de Lognan or du Chardonnet (6563' ; Devouassoud's Inn) ; '/4 hr. higher
we obtain a splendid survey Oi the grand 'seracs' of the glacier (where ice-
avalanches are frequent). In 1/2 hr. more (guide necessary, to be brought
from Chamonix) we reach the flat upper part of the glacier, almost free
from crevasses (Mer de Olace d'Argenti&re). The middle of it affords
a striking view of the surrounding Aiguilles (du Chardonnet , d'Argen-
tiere , Tour Noire , Mt. Dolent , Les Courtes , Les Droites , Aig. Verte).
We may then ascend the glacier to (3 hrs.) the '■Jardiii' (8806'), a rocky
'islet' at the base of the Aiguille d' Argentiere, with fine flora in summer.
— ExcnRSioNs from the Pavilion de Lognan. Aiguille du Chardonnet
{12,540' •, 7 hrs. with guide) and Aigtiille d'Argentih-e (12,800' ; 8 hrs. with
guide), two difficult ascents. — To ORSifeKES over the Col du Chardonnet
(10,978'; 11 hrs., with guide), difficult but very attractive. We ascend the
steep Glacier d'Argentiere to (4>/2 hrs.) the Col, between the Aiguille du
Chardonnet and the Aiguille d'Argentiere, then cross the neve of the Ola-
cier de Saleinaz round the Grande /"oarc/je (11,867') to (IV4 hr.) the Fenetre
de Saleinaz (14,137'). and descend by the Glacier de Trient and the Gla-
cier d'Ornij to the Cabane d'Orny (p. 286) and (6 hrs.) Orsih-es (p. 286). —
To Orsieres over the Col d' Argentiere (11,548'; 12 hrs.), very difficult.
The summit of the pass, which commands a fine view, lies between the
Tour Noire (12,545') and the Aiguilles Rouges (11.995'). The dangerous de-
scent leads across the Glacier de la Neuva to the chalets of La Follu in
the Val Ferret (p. 274). — To Courmayeur over the Col Dolent (11,960';
14 hrs. with guide), between Mont Dolent (12.566') and the Aiguille de
Triolet (12,725), another difficult expedition. The descent leads by the Gla-
cier du Pri de Bar to the Petit Ferret (p. 274). — To the Montenvert
over the Col des Grands Montets (10,630'; 8 hrs., with guide), difficult.
The summit of the pass lies between the Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille
266 Route 73. .TETE NOIRE. From Chamonix
flu Bochard, at the top of the steep Glacier de la Pendant. — From the
Pavilion de Lognan we may return to the chalets of Lognan and Pendant.,
and follow the Chapeau route to (2'/2 hrs.) Les Tines (p. 265).
Beyond the village the new Tete-Noire road ascends to the left in
bold windings. Beyond the (25 min.) hamlet of Trelechamp we
obtain a fine retrospect of the Glacier du Tour and the magniticent
AiguUle Verte. The (1/4 hr.) top of the pass (CoJ des Montets,A7iO'),
the watershed between the Rhone and the Arve, commands a final
view of the Mont Blanc chain.
The road now turns to the W. side of the valley and gradually
descends, passing (20 min.) a finger-post which indicates the way
to the left to the (25 min.) picturesque ^Cascade a Berard, or a
Poyaz, in a wild ravine, a digression to which adds '/2 hr. to the
walk. Through this ravine, the Vallee de Berard, runs the route to
the Buet (10,200'), the top of which is visible in the background
(see p. 257). Our road crosses the (1/4 hr.) Eau-Noire (Auberge;
to the waterfall 15 min. from this point).
We next traverse a lonely valley bounded by lofty, pine-clad
mountains. Before us rises the Bel-Oiseau (8610')- In 10 min.
more we reach the first houses of the scattered village of Valorcine
(4232'; pop. 640), the church of which lies to the left farther on.
At a (20 min.) Cantine, we have a final retrospect of the summit
of Mont Blanc. The valley contracts. The road descends to the Eau-
Noire, which dashes over the rocks, and (5 min.) crosses it. The
(I/4 hr.) Hotel de Barberine (closed) stands at the confluence of
the Eau-Noire and the Barberine, which forms a waterfall here,
and a finer one '/2 hr. higher up. We cross (5 min.) the Eau-Noire
by a bridge (3684'), the boundary between France and Switzerland,
pass the small Hot. Suisse au Chdtelard, and reach (6 min.) the
Hotel Royal du Chatelard (burned down in 1886), where the two
routes to the Rhone Valley separate : to the right the road over the
Tete-Noire to Martigny; to the left the road via Triquent and Sal-
van to Vernayaz (see below).
Fkom Chatelard to Maktigny (41/4 hrs.). The road passes
through a cutting in the rock and crosses the (5 min.) Eau-Noire.
The once dangerous Mapas (mauvais pas) descends to the left, while
the new road leads high above the deep and sombre valley, being
hewn in the rocks of the (40 min.) Tete-Noire, or La Roche-Percee.
To the N.W. rises the Bel-Oiseau (8610'); to the N.E., above the
valley of Trient, appear the Dent de Morales (p. 230) and Grand-
Maveran (p. 230). We next reach (10 min. ; from Argentiere 3 hrs.)
the *Hdtel de la Tite Noire (4003'). A wooden belvedere, which we
reach 2 min. before the inn, affords a fine survey of the romantic
gorge of the l^au-Noire.
A steep patli descends by the inn to the left to the (2<.l niin.l Goufl're
de la Tete-Noire, a ravine (if the Trient, with a waterfall and a natural
bridge C-Pont Mystirieux"). Tickets at the inn (1 fr., with guide). The
steep ascent back to the hotel requires 25-30 min. — A path leads direct
from the ravine to Finhaut (p. 267).
to Martiyny. FINIIAUT. 73. Route. 267
The road here turns to the right into the sadly tliinned forest
of Trient, skirting the base of the Tete-Noire. In the valley, far
below, is the brawling Trient, which joins the Eau-Noire a little
farther on. Where the wood is quitted, the valley widens, and we
reach ('/o hr.) the village of Trient (4250'; Hot. -V ens. des Alpes;
Hot. du Glacier de Trient, mediocre), a little beyond which the road
is joined by the path from Chamonix over the Col de Balme (p. 269).
At the end of the valley rises the Aiguille du Tour (11,585') with
the fine Glacier de Trient (p. 268).
From Trient the road ascends somewhat steeply to the (40 min.)
Col de Trient, better known as Col de la Forclaz (4997'; two inns,
see p. 268). The view hence is limited, but 1/2 It. lower down we
enjoy a noble survey of the Rhone Valley as far as Sion. At our feet
lies Martigny, reached in 2'/4 hrs. by the road (p. 268), or in 1 '/2 ^i^-
by the steep old path.
From CH.ixELAUD to Veknayaz (4 hrs.). The narrow road ascends
from the Hot. Royal (p. 266) to the left, partly by zigzags, for
40 min., and a cross turns to the right, towards Finhaut. Now
nearly level, with views of the valleys of the Eau-Noire and the
Trient (see above), the Glacier de Trient (p. 268), and the Aiguille
du Tour, It next reaches (3/4 hr.) Finhaut, or Fins-Hauts (4060';
Pens, du Bel-Oiseau, Pens. -Restaurant du Montblanc , Pens, de la
Croix Federate, all three unpretending and good), beaiitifully
situated.
A path (tbe beginning of which should be asked for) leads hence direct
to the (1 hr.) Tete-Noire Inn. It descends steeply to a wooden bridge
over the Eau-Koire, crosses it, ascends to the right, and passes several
houses, where if necessary, a boy may be found to show the way,
to the Po7it Mystirieu.r and the Hotel de la Tete-Noire (p. 266).
Ascending a little, then level again, the road passes (I/4 hr.) a
Cantine (splendid view), descends through wood in many windings,
and leads along the slope of the hill, past the hamlet of Triquent
(3260'), to the (3/4 hr.) *Gorges du Tri'ege (auberge at the bridge),
with its picturesque waterfalls framed with rocks and dark pines
(rendered accessible by wooden pathways; 1 fr.). For the next
20 min. the road gradually ascends, and then descends between in-
teresting marks of glacier striation to (1/2 tr-) Salvan (3035';
*H6t.-Pens. des Gorges du Tri'ege, R., L., & A. 21/2-3, D. 3, B. IV2,
pens. 41/2-5 fr.; *Union, moderate). Engl, Church Service in summer.
To the 'Cascade du Dalley, a fine fall of the Salan/e, a good path
leads in 40 min. by the hamlet of Les Granges, on the slope facing the
Rhone Valley. The finest point of view is opposite the fall. Lower down
the Salanfe forms the Pissevache Fall (p. 231). — A fine view of Mont
Blanc, the Grand Comhin, etc. may he obtained from the Mayens de la
Creuse (5790'; 2V2 hrs., with guide), to which an attractive path (.suited
for riding) leads through wood. — The Luisin (9140'; G hrs. from Salvan;
with guide), ascended by the Alp and Col or Chieu d'Einaney (T9G0'), aftord.s
a superb view of the Alps of Savov, \'alais, and Bern. Descent in 5 hrs.,
by Salanfe and Van (p. 242). — The ascent of the Dent du Midi (10,695';
8 hrs. with guide), a difficult but attraclive expedition, leads via Les Granges
and Van d'en Haul to the (3 hrs.) Alp Salanfe (6215'; night quarters),
2.Q>S Route 74. COL DE LA FORCLAZ.
whence the summit is reached in 5 hrs. more via the Col de Clusaiifc,
where our route i8 joined by that from Champdry (p. 241).
From Salvan a good road , shaded by chestnut and ■walnut-trees
and crossing the stream about 50 times, descends the steep slopes
in thirty windings to(3/4hr.; upli/2br.) Vernayaz (rail, stat., p. 231).
Pedestrians have an agreeable alternative to the road via Salvan in
the so-called 'Nouveau Chemin', which leads on the right bank of the Trient
from Vernayaz to the Tete-Noire (3 hrs.; guide advisable for inexperienced
travellers). A path , beginning immediately above the Gorges du Trient
(p. 231), ascends the cliffs in zigzags to the ('/s hr.) chalets of Gueuroz
(2200'; restaurant), and continues through beech- woods to ('/4 hr.) La
Tuillat, whence a footpath runs through the ravine of the Trient to Salvan
in IVi hr. The path now mounts steeply to (^4 br.) the prettily situated
La Crete (3385' ; simple fare) , and then keeps along the level via Plan a
Jeur to (1 hr.) L'JIroz (3880'), lying high above the junction of the Trient
and Eau Noire. We descend to the left into the valley of the Trient,
cross the stream by a timber-bridge, and ascend once more to the road,
which we strike a little above the (^4 hr.) Tite Noire Ildtel (p. 266).
74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme.
Comp. Maps, pp. 252, 25 S.
10 hrs. From Martigny to the Col de Balme 6, thence to Chamonix 4
hours. Road from Martigny to Trient , and from Tour to Chamonix.
Carriages, see p. 26i. Guide (12 fr.) unnecessary, if the following direc-
tions be observed. Luggage may be sent on by carr. by arrangement
with the hotel-porters (comp. p. 264). Horse or mule and attendant 24 fr. ;
but from the Col to Tour the path is unfit for riding. Several inns and
cabarets on the route.
Martigny, see p. 232. We follow the Great St. Bernard road through
the long village of Martigny-Bourg (ji. 232) to the (l'/2M.) Drance
Bridge (1640'), and (4 min.) reach the hamlet of La Croix. A notice
on a house here indicates the road to Chamonix, ascending to the right,
through vineyards, orchards, and meadows, in numerous windings,
which the rugged old path cuts off: 20 min. Les Rappes; 25 min. La
Fontaine; 35 min. Sergnieux (3820'); ^/ilir. Le Fay. The road here
takes a wide bend to the right, which the old path cuts off. By the
(3/4 hr.) Chalet de Bellevue we enjoy a fine retrospective survey of
the Rhone Valley. Then (20 min.) Les Chavans (auberge), and an
ascent of 40 min. more to the Col de la Forclaz (4997'; Hotel Gay-
Descombes; Restaurant Fougere, 2 min. farther on, moderate), 31/2
hrs. from Martigny.
From the pass a nearly level path, with a tramway for the ice-
Iraffic, leads to the (IV2 hr.) 'Glacier de Trient (lower end 5560'), the
northernmost glacier of the Mont Blanc range (good view from a point
about 1/2 hr.'s climb up the left side). Over the Col des Eccmdies (8800')
to Champex, 5'/2-6hrs., with guide, see p. 286. — Mont d^Arpille (6830'),
ascended in IV2 hr. from the Col. de la Forclaz, see p. 232.
After a descent of 1/4 hr. the bridle-path to the Col de Balme
diverges to the left from the Tete-Noire road (p. 267), and in 10 min.
crosses a bridge opposite the upper houses of Trient (p. 267). We
now ascend the meadows to the left (with the Glacier de Trient to
the left, see above) and (20 min.) cross the Nant-Noir ('nant', pro-
bably from natare, being the Savoyard word for a torrent), which
GOL DE RALME. 74. Route. 269
descends from the Mont des Herbageres. We follow the right bank
for about 200 paces, and then mount to the left in steep zigzags
through the Forest of Magnin, which has been thinned by ava-
lanches. After 1 hr. the path becomes more level, passes ('/4 hr.)
a cantine and ('/4hr.) the chalets of Zerbazihre (6660'), and (Va^r.)
reaches the *Col de Balme (7225'; Hotel Suisse, tolerable), 6 hrs.
from Martigny, the boundary between Switzerland and France. This
point commands a superb view of the whole of the Mont Blanc range :
the Aiguilles du Tour , d'Argentiere, Verte, du Dru, de Charmoz,
and du Midi, Mont Blanc itself, and the Dome du Gouter ; and
also of the valley of Chamonix as far as the Col de Voza. On the
right are the Aiguilles Rouges , to the left of them the Brevent,
and to the right the snow-clad Buet. In the opposite direction, over
the Forclaz, we survey the Valais and the mountains which separate
it from the Bernese Oberland, the Gemml with its two peaks, the
Finsteraarhorn, Grimsel, and Furka.
A still finer *View is obtained from La Balme (7590') , the second
eminence to the right, with a wooden cross, about '/i It. N.W. of the inn,
at the foot of the Croix de Fer, or Aiguille de Balme (7677'), the last spur
of the hills which rise abruptly above the Col de Balme. From this point
Mont Blanc looks still grander; to the N.E. we see the entire chain of the
Bernese Alps, rising like a vast white wall with countless pinnacles; and to
the E., at our feet, lies the Tete Noire ravine, with the Dent du Midi rising
beyond it. The descent may be begun immediately from this point. The
ascent of the Aiguille itself is recommended to good climbers (1 hr., with
guide). A cross V^ hr. below the inn on the path to Martigny is to the
memory of Escher von Berg, a young native of Zurich, who lost his life
in attempting the ascent without a guide.
From the Col de Balme to the TAte-Noire (2V2 hrs.; no guide re-
quired in fine weather), fatiguing but interesting, and recommended to
the traveller who desires to visit both these points in one day either from
the Rhone Valley or from Chamonix. The views are less striking in the
reverse direction. To the W. of the Col, behind the above-mentioned
eminence with the cross, a narrow path leads nearly to the (10 min.) brink
of the Tete-Noire Valley, and then becomes indistinct. We txirn to the
right (N.) and follow a slight depression for a few minutes until a number
of heaps of stone become visible, to the right of which the path reappears.
The chalets of Catogne (6570') are left to the right as we descend. The
path next crosses the stream, and descends abruptly along the right bonk
to a lower plateau of the mountain, then bends to the X.E., and reaches
(40 min ) the chalets of Grangettes. Beside the most northerly chalet,
beyond the stream, are two boulders, conspicuous by their light colour,
between which the path descends to the N., steep and stony at places,
but henceforward easilv traced, to the scattered chalets of Les Jews and
(11/4 br.) the Tete Noire {^. 266).
From the Col de Balme to Orsi6res over the Col du Tour (10,990'),
11-12 hrs. with guide, a fatiguing route suited only for adepts. The route
skirts the cliffs of the Grands Autannes to the Glacier du Tour, over which
it leads to the pass, between the Aiguille du Tour (11,605') and the Petite
Fourche (11,605; both ascended from the pass; fine views). The descent
is made via the Glacier de Trient and the Glacier d'Orny to the Cabane
dWrny, and thence to Som la Proz and Orsi&res (p. 286).
The path, now rough and steep, descends over pastures carpeted
with rhododendrons and other Alpine flowers. On the right flows
the Arve (p. 259), which rises on the Col de Balme. We cross
several small brooks, pass (2/4 hr.) a heap of stones, and (1/4 hr.) a
270 Route 75. COL DE VOZA. From Chamonix
second heap, resembling a hut without a roof, and reach (1/4 hr.)
Le Tour (4695'), to the left of which is the fine Glacier du Tour.
Carriage-road hence to Chamonix (7^/4 M.). The fragments of slate
brought down by the Arve are carefully collected by the peasants,
■who cover their fields with them in spring, tlius causing the snow
under them to melt several weeks earlier than would otherwise be
the case. (Carr. from Tour to Chamonix with one horse 6, with
two 9-10 fr. ; those who intend to drive should take a carriage here
if possible.) About 1/2 M. beyond Tour we cross the Buisme, which
drains the Glacier du Tour, and (1 M.) the Arve, and soon reach
(I/4 M.) Argrentiere (p. 265; from the Col de Balme to Chamonix
a walk of 4 hrs., ascent 5-5'/2 hrs.).
75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du
Bonhomme and the Col de la Seigne.
Comp. Maps, jip. 252, 25S.
Bridle -Path. Three days: 1st, to Contamines S'/j hrs. (or to Nant-
Borrant, best night quarters, 71/4 hrs.); Snd, to Mottets from X;int-Eor-
rant, 5'/2 hrs. via, the Col des Fours, or 6'/2 hrs. via Chapieux ; 3rd , to
Courmayeur 8'/2 hrs. — Good walkers may reach Courmayeur from Xant-
Eorrant in one day. Or, omitting the f'ol de Voza, we may drive from
Chamonix to Contamines or to Notre Dame de la Gorge, in which case
Mettets is easily reached on the first day and Courmayeur on the second.
— Guide (not needed by good walkers in fine weather, but advisable for
others, especially over the Col des Fours) from Chamonix to Courmayeur
in two days 20, in three days 24 fr; return-fee 16 fr. extra.
The Tour of Kont Blanc, as this route is called, is easy and interesting.
To complete our circuit of Mont Blanc, we may return to Martigny over
the Great St. Bernard or over the Col Ferret; good walkers proceed from
Aosta to Chatillon, and cross the Theodule Pass or Matterjocli to Zermatt.
"We follow the Geneva road (p. 255) from Chamonix to (81/2 M. )
the hamlet of La Oriaz, turn to the left at a large iron cross and
cross the deep bed of the Nant de la Griaz to (2/4 M.) Les Houches
(Hot. du Glacier, poor], with a picturesquely situated church. A
few paces beyond the church , and on the other side of the brook
(guide-post), a tolerable footpath (hardly to be mistaken) diverges
to the left, enters the (^2 ^ir-) wooded ravine to the right, and
ascends in 11/2 hr. to the Pavilion de Bellevue (5947'), a rustic inn
on a saddle of Mont Lachat (see below), affording a superb *View
(best by evening-light) of the Chamonix "Valley as far as the Col de
Balme, the Mont Blanc range (summit hidden by Dome du Goiiter),
and the valley of the Arve.
Another path (easier at first, but disagreeable after rain) diverges by a
cross IS min. beyond Les Houches, and ascends in 2 hrs. to the Col de Voza
(5495'; Inn closed; simple refreshments in the chalet), a depression between
Monl Lachat (6926') and the Prarion (p. 254), 20 min. to the "W. of the Pa-
vilion de Bellevue, with a fine view, but inferior to that from the Bellevue.
We may descend either on the right bank of the stream by Bionnassay to
Contamines, or by a better and shorter route on the slopes to the left to
the undermentioned bridge over the Bionnassay, where we join the route
from the Pavilion de Bellevue, and thence along the left bank.
From the Pavilion de Bellevue the path descends to the S. over
to Courmayeur. NANT-BORRANT. 75. Route. 271
pastures (the Aiguille de Bionnassay, 13,360', rising on the left)
and crosses the stream issuing from the Glacier de Bionnassay below
the chalets near the end of the glacier. Now a tolerable bridle-path,
it descends on the left side of the valley to (l'/4 br.) Champel
and turns to the left by the fountain. We now descend ra-
pidly, enjoying a flue view of the wooded and well - cultivated
Montjoie Valley, bounded on the W. by the slopes of Mont-JoU (see
below), with the Mont Roselette (8825') in the background, while
to the E., above the green lower hills, peep several of the W. snow-
peaks of the Mont Blanc group (^Aig. du Tricot, de Trelatete, etc.).
At (18 min.) La Villette the path leads to the right by the fountain,
and then (6 min.) joins the carriage-road from St. Gervais (p. 254),
which we follow to the left. The road soon crosses the brook de-
scending from the Glacier de Miage. To the right, on the slope of
Mont Joli, stands the conspicuous church of St. Nicolas de Veroce.
The road then leads high on the right bank of the Bon-Nant to La
Chapelle and (1 hr.) —
Les Conta.mines-sur-St-Gervais (3927'; Hotel du Bonhomme ;
L'njon), a large village with a handsome church.
The *Mont Joli (8290') is ascended from St. Sicolas (see above) without
difficulty in 3 hrs. (guide 6 fr.; auberge 'A hr. from the top). Splendid
view of Mont Blanc. — The Pavilion de Trelatete (see below) is more easily
reached from Contamines than from Nant-Borrant (path ascending to the
left. 20 min. above Contamines). From Contamines by the Pavilion de
Trelatete to Nant-Borrant, 3 hrs., interesting. — From Contamines over
the Col Joli to Beaufort, see p. 250.
Beyond Contamines the road descends to the hamlet of Pontet,
and overlooks the valley as far as the peaks of the Bonhomme. The
valley contracts. At (1 hr.) the bridge which crosses to the pilgrim-
age-chapel of Notre-Dame de la Gorge the road ends.
The bridle-path now ascends to the left, passing a bridge and
frequent traces of glacier-friction. Then through wood, and (i/ohr.)
across the deep gorge of the Bon-Nant; 10 min. Chalets o/^Nant-
Borrant (4780'; *Inn, R, 3, D. 21/2-3 fr.). We cross the wooden
bri<lge to the left, and traverse the pastures by a somewhat stony
path. On the left the fall of the Glacier de Trelatete and the Col
de Beranger are visible; looking back, we survey the valley as far
as the Aiguilles de Varens (p. 254).
From Kant-Borrant , or better from Contamines (see above), we may
reach Mottets or the Col de la Seigne in 7 hrs. by the Col du Mont
Xondu, or Col du Glacier (9204') ; trying, but without danger (guide 30 fr.).
From Nant-Borrant the path ascends to the left (fine waterfalls) to the
(IV2 hr.) Pavilion de Trelatete (6483'; Inn, well spoken of), which overlooks
the Trelatete Glacier, and mounts the glacier towards the S.E. to the pass,
to the left of Mt. Tondu (beautiful view, especially from a height on the
left). We may either descend to the right to Mottets (p. 272), or to the left
over shelving rocks and acro.ss the Glacier des Lancettes or des Glaciers
to the Col de la Seigne (p. 273). — Over the Col de Trelatete (11,424'),
immediately S. of the Aiguille de Trelatete, to the Glacier de I'AlUe
lilanche and Conibal Lake (p. 273), very difficult (2 guides, 60 fr. each).
We next reach (50 min.) the Chalet i laBalme (5627'), a poor
inn, beautifully situated at the head of the Montjoie Valley.
272 Route 75. COL DU BONHOMME. From Chamonix
In doubtful weather, or if evening is approaching, a guide should be
taken from this point to the summit of the pass (3fr.); but, as guides
are not always to be had here, it is safer to engage one at Contamines
(to the Col du Bonhomme 6-8, Col des Fours 6-8, Chapieux 8-10, Mottets
10-12 fr., the higher fees being charged when the guide cannot return the
same day). If the guide be taken to the Col du Bonhomme only, his at-
tendance should be required as far as the highest point (Croix du
Bonhomme, see below). Mule from Nant-Borrant to the Croix 8 fr.
The path, indicated by stakes, ascends wild, stony slopes, passing
a waterfall on the left, to the (Y2 br.) Plan Jovet (6437') with a
few chalets. (To Mottets over the Col d'Enclaves, see p. 273.) On
the (1/2 lir.) Plan des Dames (6543 ') rises a conical heap of stones,
where a lady is said to have perished in a snow-storm. At the end
of the valley (20min.) the path ascends the slope to the right, and
(25 min.) reaches the Col du Bonhomme (7680'). On the opposite
side of this saddle we look down into the desolate valley of the Gitte.
A path, at first ill-defined, descends into this basin, passes the lonely
Chalet de la Sauce, turns to the left and crosses the brook, and leads
to (2 hrs.) the chalets of La Oille and to Bean/oil (p. 250) in S'/a hrs.
more. This is a convenient route to the Tarentaise, but uninteresting.
Guide to La Gitte advisable.
Two cnrious rocks, the Rockers du Bonhomme and de la Bonne-
femme, here tower aloft, like two ruined castles. Beyond these we
follow the rocky slope to the left (path indicated by stakes), enjoying
a continuous view of the mountains of the Tarentaise (p. 250), and
next reach (40 min.) the Croix du Bonhomme (8153'), where the
path divides. In a straight direction the path descends, partly over
loose stones to (1^/4 br.) —
Les Chapieux or Chapiu (4950'; Soleil, well spoken of; Hut. des
Voyageurs\ an Alpine hamlet in the Val des Glaciers, 1^/4 hr. below
Mottets (see below).
From Chapieox to Pr6-St. Didiek over the Little St. Bernard (11 hrs.;
preferable to the Col de la Seigne in doubtful weather). The path to
(3 hrs.) Bourg- St- Maurice (p. 275), at first very stony, but afterwards
better, passes the chalets of Le Crey and Bonneval, commanding a beauti-
ful view of the upper Isere Valley (Tarentaise), and at length unites with
the high-road. From Bourg- St- Afaurice to Pr^-St. Didier, see p. 275.
The direct route to Mottets (2'/2 hrs.) ascends from the Croix du
Bonhomme to the left, indicated by posts and rarely free from snow
(guide advisable for less experienced travellers) to the (35 min.) Col
des Fours (8892'), to the left of which rises the Pointe des Fours
(20 min.), a splendid point of view, marked by a stone pyramid. Then
a steep and rough descent over snow and dirty slate-detritus, and
over pastures by a bad path, to (IV4 ^^-^ * group of chalets (6573')
and the (20 min.) huts of Les Glaciers, where the path from Chapieux
comes up from the right. We descend to the left, cross the bridge
(5840'), and ascend the left bank to (20 min.) the two houses of —
Mottets (6227'; Mme. Fort's Inn, mediocre and dear; mule to
the Col de la Seigne, 6 fr.), at the head of the Val des Glaciers. To the
N. rises the Aiguille du Glacier (12,520'), with the extensive Gla-
cier des Glaciers.
to Courmayeur. COL DE LA SEIGNE. 75. Route. 273
Over the Col du Mont Tondu to Coniamines, see p. 271. Another route
to Mottets (4 hrs. from Kant-Borrant ; shorter, but trying) is from the Plan
Jovet (p. 272) . past the small lake of that name , and over the Col
d'Enclaves (88i2'), between Mt. Tondu and the Tete d'Enclaves.
A bridle-path, well constructed at places, ascends hence in zig-
zags to the (l^/^hr.) *Col de IaSeigne(8240'), where a cross marks
the frontier between France and Italy. Magnificent view of the
*Allee Blanche, an Alpine valley several miles long, bounded on
the N.W. by the tremendous precipices of the Mont Blanc chain.
To the left of the pass rise the Aig. du Glacier (12,520') and Aig. de
Tvelateie (12,900') ; then beyond the depression of the Miage Glacier, the
imposing snowy dome of Moni Blanc, borne by the huge rocky but-
tresses of Mont Brouillard and Mt. Rotige ; farther on towers the bold and
isolated Aig. Blanche de Piteret (13,490'), ascended for the first time in 1885.
Of the more distant peaks the Aig. du Geant and the Grandes Jorasses
are conspicuous; and beyond the Col de Ferret rise the peaks of the Great
St. Bernard , beyond which appear the snowy Mt. Yelan , Grand Combin,
etc. In the valley lies the green Lac de Combal. The retrospective view
of the Tarentaise Jits, is also fine , but it cannot compete with the im-
posing scene just described.
Beyond the pass the path descends over snow and debris, keep-
ing to the left, then across pastures, to the (1/2 hr.) upper Chalets
de V Allee Blanche (7232'; occupied for a few weeks in the height of
summer only), and the (25 min.) lower chalets (7135'), at the end of
a level plateau. On the left are the Glacier de VEstellette and the
Olacier de V Allee Blanche. Good path from this point. We round
the hill to the right, cross the brook, and descend to a second level
reach of the valley (formerly the bed of a lake), at the end of which
(3y'4 hr.) lies the green Lac de Combal (6363'), bounded on the N.
by the huge moraine of the Olacier de Miage. Near a sluice at the
lower end of the lake (10 min.) we cross the Doire, which issues
from the lake, and descend the side of the moraine through a wild
ravine, filled with fragments of rock. (The Miage Glacier, at the
head of which valuable lead and silver mines are now worked, is
not visible.) After ^/^ hr. the Doire is again crossed. The valley,
now called Val di Veni, expands. We pass (5 min.) the Cantine
de la Visaille (5420'), and enjoy a fine view down the valley.
The path descends through wood and pastures, passing (40 min.)
a lead smelting-house (see above). On the left is the fine Glacier
de la Brenva, which once filled the whole valley, but has receded
greatly within the last few decades. Beyond the (20 min.) wood,
which has suffered from avalanches, on the left is the Aiguille Noire
de Peteret with the snowy summit of Mont Blanc towering above it;
on the right the pavilion on the Mont Fre'ty (p. 274). By the
chapel of Notre -Dame de Berrier , a few minutes farther, the
path rounds an angle of rock , overlooking the village of En-
treves (p. 274) to the left , at the mouth of the Val Ferret , and
then descends to the Doire , which unites here with the Doire du
Val Ferret and takes the name of Dora Baltea. Opposite the little
sulphur-baths of La Saxe ('/2 hr.), we cross the Dora, pass the
('/4 hr.) Hotel du Montblanc, and in 5 min. more reach —
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 18
274 Route 75. COURMAYEUR.
Courmayeur. — ''Hotel Royal, -Angelo, in both R., L., & A. 5-6,
lunch 31/2, B. 11/2, D. 5 fr. ; Union ; "Mont Blanc, 1/4 M. to the N. of the
village, R. & A. Vft-, D., incl. wine, 4 fr. Diligence to Aosta, see p. 275;
one-horse carriage to Aosta 15, two-horse 26 fr. (return vehicles cheaper).
As at Chamonix, there is a society of guides here with similar regulations
(see p. 257). L. and J. PromeiU, J. M. Lanier, Ser. Henry, J. Gadin,
Al. Berthod, J. M. Bron, P. and A. Buchoz, and Em. and /. M. Rey, are
recommended.
Courmayeur (3963'}, Ital. Cormagtjiore, a considerable village,
■with mineral springs, beautifully situated at the head of the Aosta
Valley, is much frequented by Italians in summer. Though higher
than Chamonix, the climate is warmer and the vegetation far richer.
The highest peak of Mont Blanc is concealed from Courmayeur by
the Mont Chedf 0Q8S), but is seen from the Pre-St. Uidier road, V2 M. to
the S. — From the hamlet of DoHone , opposite Courmayeur at the base
of Mont Chetif, we obtain an excellent survey of the enormous precipices
of the Jorasses and the glacier of that name. Pleasant walk thither, cross-
ing the Dora Bridge (10 min.); then through the village, down to the
Dora by a shady path at its N. end, and back by the left bank (V2 hr.).
A bridle-path (guide unnecessary) leads from Dollone to the W. to the
(2 hrs.) Col de Checouri (6397'), on the S.W. side of the Mont Chetif (see
above), commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc. We may return by the
Allee Blanche, see p. 273.
The 'Mont de Saxe (7734'; 2'/2-3 hrs. ; guide, 6 fr., unnecessary) affords
a complete view of the S.E. side of Mont Blanc with its numerous glaciers,
from the Col de la Seigne to the Col de Ferret, the Col du G^ant and
the Jorasses being close to us. A good bridle-path ascends from Cour-
mayeur, by La Saxe (p. 273) and Le Villair, to the (2 hrs.) Chalets du
Pri (6670') and the (1 hr.) nearer peak. The descent may be made by the
Chalets de Leuchi into the Val Ferret.
The "Crammcnt (9080'), commanding a grand view of Mont Blanc, is
more conveniently ascended from Pre St. Didier (see p. 275).
To Chamonix" OVER the Col du GEant (comp. p. 264j, 14 hrs. (guide 50,
porter 30fr. ; two guides, or a guide and a porter required). Interesting
excursion to the (2'/2 hrs.) Pavilion du Fruitier, or du Mont Blanc (restau-
rant; fine view) on the Mont Frity (7125'); thence to the Col du Giant
(11,083'; two refuge-huts), with most magnificent view, a steep ascent of
3V2 hrs. (guide to the Pavilion 6fr., unnecessary; to the pass and back 12,
in two days 15 fr.). — Ascent of Mont Blanc, see p. 263.
From Courmatedk to Martignt over the Col Ferret (14 hrs.),
bridle-path (guide to the Chalets de Ferret advisable, 15 fr.). From La
Saxe (p. 273) we follow the left bank of the Dora to a point above the
village of Entrives; we then (1 hr. from Courmayeur) cross the Doire du
Val Ferret, and ascend on its right bank. By the (l'/2 hr.) chalets of Praz-
Sec (6336') we again cross the stream. (The path on the right bank is soon
lost among the huge rocks of a moraine.) We now ascend the steep
and narrow Val Ferret, passing the poor huts of La Vachey (5382'),
Firachi (5795'), Gruetta (5782'), and Sagivan (6370'), with a continuous
view to the left of the glaciers and summits of the Mont Blanc chain.
(Paths diverging to the right to be avoided.) The last chalets are those
of (2'/2 hrs.) Pri de Bar (6756'; auberge), at the base of the glacier
of that name, which descends from Mont Grapillon or Mont Dolent (12,540').
The bridle-path ascends to the right in numerous windings to the
(IV2 hr.) Col Ferret, or Col de la Peulaz (8323'). the frontier of Switzer-
land and Italy, with a superb view of the Val Ferret and the S. side of
the Mont Blanc group with its huge glaciers (de Triolet, etc.), of the
Jorasses, the Aiguille du Geant, and the Allee Blanche as far as the
Col de la Seigne. [Another pass, called the Pas de Grapillon or Col du
Petit Ferret (8173'), farther N., close to the foot of the precipices of Mont
Dolent, is shorter, but more fatiguing and devoid of view.] We de-
scend to the (1 hr.) Cftalets de la Peulaz (6843'), below which we cross
PR£-ST. DIDIER. IC. Route. 275
the Drance and (1/2 hr.) reach the Col de Fenetre route. (From this
point to the St. Bernard Hospice 4-4V2 hvs. ; comp. p. 289). The path
then descends to the left to the (1/2 hr.) Chalets de Ferret (5566'; cabaret,
with a few beds, clean and moderate), and through the N. (Swiss) Val
Ferret or Ferrex to (1/2 hr.) La Folly (5240' ; with the Olacier de la Neuva
above it, on the left). Then (V2 hr.) La Seiloz (cabaret), (IV4 hr.) Prat de
Fort (where we reach the road). Ville d^Issert, Sam la Proz, and (tV4hr).
Orsi^res (p. 286).
76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea.
621/2 M. From Courmayeur to C21 M.) Aosta, an Omnibus (6 fr.) plies
thrice a day in summer in 4 hrs. (in the reverse direction 0 hrs.), starting
at 6 a.m., 1, and 5 p.m., returning from Aosta at 6 and 11 a.m., and 3.30
p.m.; one-horse carr. 18, two-horse 30 fr. From Aosta to (41' '2 M.) Ivrea,
Eailwat in 21/2 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 45 c). The railway, a
line example of engineering enterprise, traverses a highly picturesque district.
Courmayeur., see p. 274. — The road to Aosta (21 M. ; 7 hrs.
walking, not recommended) winds down to the Doire and follows
its left hank through a wooded ravine. (Walkers will prefer the old
road , with fine views, on the hillside to the left, descending to
the new road helow Pre'-St. Didier.) Passing (21/4 M.) Paleusieux,
we cross the Doire to (8/4 M.) Pre-St. Didier (3280'; *H6t. de VVni-
vers^ , a picturesquely situated village with baths, where the road
to the Little St. Bernard diverges to the right. Near the hot springs
(1/4 M. lower) the stream forces its way between perpendicular rocks
towards the Dora valley.
Excursions. (Guides: G. Vercellin, G. and F. Brunod, Sim. and Ferd.
Berthed., Jos. Barmaz, and Victor Belfrond.) The ascent of the "Tete de
Crammont (9080*; 3V2 hrs.) is interesting. Following the St. Bernard road
to the first tunnel (shorter footpath in 20 min.), we thence ascend to the
right to the (V2 hr.) hamlet of Chauion (5970), whence we reach the sum-
mit in 21/2 hrs. more. Splendid view of Mont Blanc and the Graian Alps.
Five min. helow the top is the Pavilion Saussure. a refuge-hut of the
1. A. C. Another route (bridle-path) diverges to the right from the St.
Bernard road at Elevaz, 3 M. from Pre'-St. Didier, joining the above route
before the final ascent. Experts may dispense with a guide.
To Bodkg-St. Maurice ovek the Little St. Beknakd, 22 M., a route
preferred by some to that over the Col de la Seigne (p. 273). The fine
new road ascends the valley of the Thtiile to (2 hrs.) La Thuile (4726';
Hot. ^National, poor and dear), where we have a view of the great glacier
of the Rutor (11,434'), which may be ascended hence (2 hrs. to the S. are
the beautiful *Rutor waterfalls, p. 284), to (IV4 hr.) Pont Serrand (5415'),
past the Cantine des Eaux-Roiiges (6740'), to the (3/4 hr.) pass of the Little
St. Bernard (7176'). The boundary between France and Italy is on the S. side,
about 1/4 hr. beyond the summit, and near a "Hospice (7060') aftbrding
good accommodation. [The Mt. Valaisan (9453'), 2 hrs. to the S.E., the
Mt. Belvedere {S&65'), l'/2 hr. to the E., and the Xanc(;!)rare;e«« (9605'), 2 hrs.
to the W., all aflford admirable views of the Mont Blanc chain.] We now
descend gradually, overlooking the beautiful upper valley of the Isere (La
Tareniaise) and the Savoy Mts. the whole way, to St. Germain., Seez, and
(9 M.) Bourg-St. Uaurice (2805'; Hot. des Voi/ageiirs, poor), a small town
on the Isere, whence a diligence runs twice daily in 41/2 hrs. to (16 M.)
MoHtiers-en- Tareniaise (p. 250).
From Bourg-St. Maurice to Chapieux, see p. 272. — To the E. of Bourg-
St. Maurice a road, practicable for driving the greater part of the way,
ascends the wild upper part of the Isere Valley, by Ste. Foy, at the W.
base of the Ormelune (10,772') and La Thuile (with the beautiful ^font
Pourri, 12,430', on the right), to (6'/2 hrs.) Tignes (5143' ; H6t. du Club
18*
27 G Route 70. AOSTA. From Courmayeuf
Alpin, Hdt. des Touristes, both plain), at the confluence of the Isere and
the Sassiire, which forms a pretty fall. To the N.E. rises the Aig. de la
Orande-SassUre (12,323'; difficult). Thence over the Col de Rhymes to the
Yal de Rhhmes^ see p. 283; over the Col de la Galise to Ceresole, see p. 285.
Below Pre-St. Didier we again cross the Doire (grand retro-
spective -view of Mont Blanc, which continues visible as far as
Avise), follow the lofty slope for some distance, and then descend
through vineyards into a broad and rich valley. To the S. appears
the beautiful pyramid of the Grivola (p. 281). On the hill to the
left of (21/4 M.) Morgex (3017'; Angela) is the picturesque ruined
chateau of Chalant (3840') ; farther on is La Salle with the ruins
of a castle. Opposite (3 M.) Villaret (Inn), on the right bank, is the
pretty church of Derby, with a fine waterfall above it. The valley
contracts. The road returns to the right bank by the (I'/a M.)
Pont d'Equiline (3570' ) and leads through a wild and pictures-
que defile (Pierre Taitlee) to Ruinaz (3580' ; Croix, poor). Op-
posite lies Avise, with a ruined castle and an ancient tower. Mont
Blanc is now lost to view. The road traverses another rocky gorge,
where the pyramidal Mt. Emilius comes in sight. Near the
beautifully situated, but dirty village of (21/4 M.) Liverogne (2390';
Hot. du Col du Mont~) we cross the deep gorge of the Dora di
Valgrisanche (p. 284). Behind us is the snowy Rutor ; to the left
is the church of St. Nicolas (3922'), on a precipitous rock. Beyond
(3/4 M.) Arvier we descend rapidly and cross the Savaranche. (To
the right, on the hill, are the chateau and chaTch of Introd, p. 283).
Then (21/2 M.)Villeneuve (2296'; Cerf, poor), beautifully situated,
and commanded by the ruined castle of Argent on a lofty rock.
(Hence to the Pont d'Ael, I1/4 hr., see p. 281).
We next ascend a little on the left bank of the Doire, passing
a massive old tower. Beautiful retrospective view of the three-
peaked Kutor, the Grivola with the Trajo Glacier, etc. Opposite
St. Pierre (2168'), with its church and old castle on a rocky hill,
opens the Val de Cogne on the S. (p. 281) ; on the right bank lies
Aymaville, with iron-foundries and the chateau of Count Castiglione
with its four towers. The road passes the handsome chateau of La
Sarre (2154'), and traverses a broad shadeless valley to (6 M.) —
24 M. Aosta. — Hotel du Montblanc, to the W. of the town, R.,
L., & A. 3-3'/2, B. IV2, D. 5 fr. ; Codronne, Place Charles Albert, next
door to the post-office, Italian. Opposite the latter Restaurant Lanier and
Ca/i National, both in the Hotel - de - Ville ; beer at Zitnmermann's , near
the H6tel-de- Ville; Rail. Restaurant, inferior. — One-horse carriage to Cour
mayeur 18 or 30 fr. ; to St. Remy 15 or 25 fr. Omnibus to Courmayeur,
see p. 274 (office in the Market, R., L., & A. 3 fr.); to St. Remy, see p. 290.
Aosta (1913'; pop. 7760), the Augusta Praetoria Salassorum of
the Romans, and now the capital of the Italian province of Aosta,
is beautifully situated at the confluence of the Buthier and the Doire
or Dora Baltea. The still existing antiquities testify to the im-
portance of the place during the Roman period. The Town Walls,
flanked with strong towers, enclosing a rectangle, 790 yds. long
to Ivrea. AOSTA. 76. Route. Ill
by 650 yds. broad, still exist throughout their entire circuit; while
in the S.W. the flagged top and cornice are still intact. The walls
of the ancient Theatre and the arcades of the Amphitheatre may be
seen from the market-place, rising above the modern houses.
The principal street, running eastwards, passes through the
ancient *Porta Pretoria to the (1/4 M.) *Tbiumphal Arch of
Augustus, with ten Corinthian pilasters, and then crosses the
Buthier, which has deserted its ancient channel, to the imposing
arch of a Roman Bridge, half sunk in the ground.
The church of St. Ours, the ancient crypt of which is support-
ed by Roman columns, is situated in the suburb; in the choir are
the tombstone of Bishop Gallus (d. 546) and finely-carved stalls.
Adjacent are cloisters with interesting early-Romanesque columns
(12th cent); and immediately beside the church is a 12th cent.
Tower, built of Roman hewn stones. Opposite are two antique
columns in front of a chapel, and a sarcophagus. — The Priory of
St. Ours , in the same square , is a tasteful building of the 15th
cent., with terracotta ornamentation, and an octagonal tower. The
wood-carvings and frescoes in the interior are interesting.
The Cathedral, dating in its present form from the 14th cent.,
has a gaudily-painted relief above its main portal, and in the
interior two mosaics of the 10th cent., and some early Renaissance
carved stalls. The treasury contains two reliquaries of the 13th
and 15th cent, respectively , a cameo of a Roman empress in a
setting dating from the 13th cent., and a dyptych of Probus (consul
in 406) and the emperor Honorius.
Beside the S. gate is the tower known as Bramafam (12th cent.)
in which a count of Challant is said to have starved his wife to
death ; and on the W. wall is the Tour du Lepreux (described in
one of Xavier de Maistre's tales), in which a leper named Guasco
(d. 1803) and his sister Angelica (d. 1791) suffered.
Between the railway station and the town stands a bronze
*Statue of Victor Emmanuel II., by Tortone, in hunting dress, on a
lofty rock pedestal. — The natives of the town are sadly afflicted
with cretinism.
Excursions. The '^Becca di Nona (10,305'; 7 hrs. ; with guide, 18 fr. ;
provisions necessary, tolerable night-quarters at the Combos Alp, see
below) is an admirable point of view. The bridle-path, dusty at first,
crosses the Doire and ascends somewhat rapidly to the village of Charvensod
(2446'; guides Gregoire and Grat. Jos. Come), traverses a wood, and passes
the hermitage of S(. Grat (5815'j and the Col Plan Fenctre (7298') to the
Alpe Camboi , in a basin at the foot of the Becca di Nona; hence by %
zigzag path in 2'/2 hrs. more to the summit. A few yards below the top
is the Capanna Budden of the I. A. C. Superb -View (Panorama by Carrel),
embracing the whole of the Mont Blanc and the Monte Rosa chains , and
the Graian Alps to the S. [The Signal Siimonda (7698'), to the S.. 20 min.
above the Col Plan Fenetre, commands an excellent view of the Rutor
and the Pennine Alps.] — We may, for variety, in descending from the
Becca, leave Comboe to the left, and go straight through the valley of
the Comho^. Below the basin of Comboe there is a fine waterfall, at the
foot of which we cross the brook and then descend to the left to Charvensod,
278 Route 76. CHATILLON. From Courmayeur
The Hont Emilius (ll,673')i may be ascended by experts from Comboe
in 4 hrs. (with guide). We follow the Col d'Arbole route as far aa the
(1 hr.) Chalets d''Arbole (p. 281), and then turn to the left, passing a small
glacier-lake. View still more extensive than from the Becca di Nona.
The Uont Fallere (10,043'), may be ascended from Aosta in 7 hrs.,
by a new bridle-path, via Ville sur Sarre. From the Capanna Regina
Margherita of the I. A. C, at the top, splendid view of the entire Pennine
and Graian chains.
From Aosta to Zermatt (p. 322) an attractive but fatiguing route
leads through the Val Pellina, and over the Col de Valpelline (11,685'), in
two days : to the chalets of Pra-Rayi (p. 311) 9 hrs. ; thence a difficult
ascent over the Glacier de Za-de-Zan to the pass, to the S. of the Tele
Blanche (12,300'), and down the Slock., and Zmutl glaciers to (10-12 hrs.)
Zermatt (comp. p. 322). — From Bionaz (p. 311), 3 hrs. above Valpelline
and b hrs. from Aosta, the Mont Luseney (11,500), which commands a
graad view, may be ascended in 7 hrs. (diflicult, for experts only). —
Several passes lead from the Valpellina to the Val St. Barthilem'y (see
below): from Oyace (p. 311) or Bionaz over the Col de Vessona (about
8950'), easy and attractive ; from Bionaz over the Colle Montagnaia (9643'),
easy; from Pra-Raye over the Col de Livournea (9643'), laborious.
From Aosta to Cogne., see p. 280; over the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt,
R. 84; over the Col de Collon to Evolena, p. 311; over the Col de Fenetre
to the Val de Bagnes, p. 291; over the Great St. Bernard to Martigny, R. 78.
Leaving Aosta the Railway crosses iheButhier and the Bagnere,
and approaches the Dora, the course of which is here interrupted
by numerous islands. As we look back we enjoy a splendid view
of the valley of Aosta, surrounded by lofty mountains : to the S.
rise the Becca di Nona and Mt. Emilius, to the N. the Grand
Combin and Mt. Velan , and to the W. the Rutor (see p. 284).
Shortly before reaching the station of (5 M.) Quart- Ville franche
(1755') we see the chateau of Quart (2486') on a hill to the left.
The train now crosses the Dora, but beyond (7 M.) St. Marcel, at
the mouth of the valley of the same name (p. 282 ), it returns to
the left bank. On the slope above St. Marcel is the pilgrim-resort of
Plou. Near (8 M.) Nus (1755'), with its ruined castle, the Val St.
Barthelemy , from which various passes lead to the Valpellina
(see above), opens on the N. The line once more crosses and re-
crosses the Dora. To the right appears the picturesque chateau of
Finis, near the mouth of the Clavaliti Valley , from which towers
the slender snowy pyramid of the Tersiva (p. 281). We now
intersect near Diemoz a large deposit of debris by a viaduct
100 yds. long, and traverse a tunnel to (1272 M.) Chambave
(1623'), noted for its wine, where we command for the last time
a retrospect as far as the Rutor.
The valley now contracts ; the railway runs between the river
and the cliffs, traversing two tunnels and a deep cutting through
a deposit of debris, and crosses the Matmoire or Marmore descend-
ing from the Valtournanehe. 15'/2 M- Chatillon (1805'; Hot. de
Londres, complained of; Hot. de I'Ange), the district capital, with
2992 inhab. , and a castle of the ancient counts of Challant , is
beautifully situated, 1 M. above the station (1480'), at the mouth of
the Valtournanehe. The deep wooded gorge of the Matmoire, which
to Ivrea. VERRfeS. 76. Route. 279
is picturesquely studded with houses, is spanned in the centre of
the village hy an imposing single-arched bridge. — To Valtour-
nanche and over the Theodule Pass to Zermatt, see pp. 320, 321.
From Chatillon the railway continues along the left bank of the
Dora. On the steep hill to the right is the old chateau of Vssel,
also once belonging to the Challant family. Beyond two short
tunnels is (161/2 M.) St. Vincent (1415'), the station for the village
of the same name (1885'; Lion d'Or; Ecu de France), situated
1 M. to the left, at the foot of the pyramidal Mt. Zerbion (8924'),
and containing a mineral spring with baths. We next enter the *3font-
jovet Defile, the most striking part of the entire journey; a series
of tunnels, separated by massive retaining and sheltering walls,
follow each other in the narrow rocky gorge, while far below the
foaming Dora descends in cascades. The exit of the pass is com-
manded by the ruined castle of Montjovet or St. Germain high up
on the left. An imposing viaduct here spans the Dora. Beyond
(20 M.) the station of Montjovet, the valley again expands. Ex-
tensive vineyards begin to appear; on the right rise lofty cliffs.
Farther on we see on the slopes the village of Champ de Praz, at
the mouth of the Val Chalame, watered by a stream, which in
times of flood has scattered stones far and wide over the valley
of the Dora. The train crosses the Dora and the Even^on and
reaches —
231/2 M. Verres (1280'). The village of that name (1100 inhab. ;
Ecu de France or Post; Couronne), with an ancient chateau of the
counts of Challant, is picturesquely situated on a rocky eminence,
at the mouth of the Val de Challant (p. 336). Issogne, on the op-
posite bank of the Dora, has also a chateau of the same family.
To the N.E., between the valleys of Challant and Gressoney, ap-
pear the rocky peaks of the Becca di Vlou (9950').
251/2 M. Arnaz, with a ruined castle. The line traverses an
extensive alluvial deposit, and at Campagnola crosses to the right
bank of the Dora. 28 M. Hone-Bard, in a superb situation. To
the right the Val Champorcher or Camporciero, with its picturesque
rocky summits (by the Col de Cogne to Cogne, see p. 282); to
the N.W., in the background of the Dora valley, the Mont Luseney
(p. 278). On a steep crag on the left bank of the Dora rises *Fort
Bard (1282'), captured in 1052 after a long siege by Duke Amadeus
of Savoy, and in 1800, before the battle of Marengo , gallantly
defended by 400 Austrians against the French army. Beyond this
point Italian only is spoken by the natives.
The railway crosses the river and passes under the fortress by
means of a tunnel, 650 yds. long. Then through a narrow rocky
ravine to (291/2 M.) Donnas (Posta), prettily situated, and over the
wild Lys torrent in a broad valley surrounded by imposing moun-
tains to (31 M.) Pont St. Martin, the station for the village of the
same name (1005'; *Rosa; Cavallo Bianco), in a highly picturesque
280 Route 77. AYMAVILLE. The Oraian
situation, at the mouth of the deep and narrow valley of tlie Lys
•or Gressoney (p. 335), with a rained castle, foundries, and an
ancient Roman bridge across the Lys.
The railway again crosses and reerosses the Dora, which here
forms a large island. On the slope to the left is the handsome
■village of Carema, surrounded by vineyards and fruit-gardens. On
the right bank is (33 M.) Quincinetto, at the foot of the Becco
delle Steje (9184'); on the left bank is the ruin of Cesnola, beyond
which rises the Becca di Vlou (see above). 35 M. Tavagnasco ; the
village lies to the right. Opposite at the foot of the Colma di
Monbaron (7773') is the larger village of Settimo Vittone. The
lower terraces of the picturesque and highly cultivated valley are
covered with vines, higher up are woods of walnut and chestnut
trees, above which again rise bare rocky peaks. We cross the
Dora again at Montestrutto , pass (on the left) Terrassa and S.
Germano, with ruined castles, and reach (37'/2 M.) Borgofranco
(924'), with a recently discovered arsenical spring, prettily situated
1 M. from the station.
The mountains now recede and the valley again expands.
39 M. Montalto Dora, with a striking and well-preserved ruined
castle. The train now enters a tunnel (IV4 M. long) under the
hill of Ivrea, crosses the Dora, and stops at (411/2 M.) Ivrea (768';
Scudo di Francia; Europa; Universo; Italia), a town with 10,413
inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Dora, with
an ancient castle, several lofty round towers, and numerous churches.
Comp. Baedeker's Northern Italy,
From Ivrea to Turin, railway in 2 hrs., see Baedeker's Northern Italy.
Travellers bound for Milan may conveniently make use of the steam
tramway to Santhia (I8V2 M. in 2 hrs.; 2nd cl. fare IV2 fr.). This
picturesque, though somewhat dusty route leads via BoUengo, with its
large chateau, and past the Lake of Viverone, embosomed in woods.
77. The Graian Alps.
The Gkaian Alps, an extensive mountain-system culminating in the
Oran Paradiso (13,320') and the Grivola (13,018') , lie between the valleys
of the Dora Baltea and the here on the N., and those of the Dora Riparia
and the Arc on the S. We here describe a few of the most interesting routes
through the E. part of this grand mountain-region, which presents so striking
an appearance when approached from the Pennine Alps. These routes, which
are easily accomplished from Aosta, lead us into the Val de Cogne and the
Val Savaranche , Val de Rhymes, and Val Grisanche, which run parallel
with the Val de Cogne on the W. Except at Cogne, where there are
two rustic inns, the traveller in this almost untrodden region must gener-
ally be content with humble quarters at the houses of the cur^s.
The mountains of Cogne form a favourite chasse of King Humbert, as
they did of his father Victor Emmanuel (p. 277), and the mountain-goat
CSteinbock", Ital. 'stambecco'. Fr. 'bouquetin'), elsewhere nearly extinct,
is still found here. Several excellent bridle-paths, leading to the royal
shooting-lodges, are a great assistance to the pedestrian.
From Aosta to Cognb (61/2 hrs.). As far as (6 M.) Aymaville
(2118') we may follow the high-road (p. 276), but it is preferable
Alps. COGNE. 77. Route. 281
to cross the Doire near Aosta, and to go by Gressan and JovenQcn,
across meadows and fields. The bridle-path then ascends rapidly
past the church of St. Martin to Poia (2790'), and enters the mono-
tonous Val de Cogne at a great height above the ravine of the
brawling Grand' Eyvie. Far below we soon ohserve the houses of
Font d'Ael (2863') , with its admirably preserved *Roman Bridge
formerly an aqueduct) , 60 yds. long , and 394' above the stream.
It was erected in the reign of Augustus. The valley contracts.
Near the bridge by which we cross the stream , we obtain a view of
the Grivola for a short time. We next reach (l'/2 hr.) Vieyes
(3730'; cantine) , at the mouth of the Combe de Nomenon (pretty
waterfall) , with the Grivola and the Gran Nomenon in the back-
ground. {^Colle de Mesoncles, see p. 283.) Beyond (1/4 hr.) Sil-
venoire (on the right), and a deserted iron-foundry, we again cross
the brook by the Pont de Laval (4480'), where the mountains of
Cogne are revealed. Then (IV2 hr.) Epinel (4762'), opposite the
lofty Punta del Pousset (see below), with the Trajo Glacier on the
right. At (1/2 lir.) Cretaz the Valnontey descends from the S. to
the Grand' Eyvie; (20 min.) Cogne (see below).
From Aosta to Cogne over the Passo d'Arbole , a fine though
fatiguing route (9 hrs., vrith guide). Ascent to (3V2 hrs.) St. Grat, see
p. 277. Thence past the Chamoli Alp and over the ridge (8646') to the (3
hrs.) Chalets d'Arbole (8186'; path from Comboi, in 1 hr., see p. 277), near
a small lake, and then a fatiguing ascent across debris to the (1 hr.)
Fasso d'Arbole (9303'); admirable view of the Gran Paradiso, Grivola, etc.
Steep descent over rocks, debris and grassy slopes to the Chalets df Arpisson
(7630'), and through pine-wood to the chalets of Chava7iis, where the path
divides : to the right to Epinel ; to the left to Critaz (see above).
Cogne (5030'; *H6t. Grivola, pens. 61/0 ^m and Hot. Royal,
both unpretending) , charmingly situated with a beautiful view of
the Gran Paradiso and the Tour du Grand St. Pierre , with their
glaciers (Glacier de la Tribulation , del Grand Crou , du Money,
etc.) to the S., and of Mont Blanc to the N.W., is an excellent
starting-point for excursions. Three valleys converge here; the
Vallone di Valnontey from the S., the Vallone d'Vrtier from the
E., and the Vallone di Grauson, from the N.
Ascents and Passes. (Guides, Elysie and Joseph Jeanlet, L. Gtii-
chardaz.) *Punta del Pousset (10,746' ; 5 hrs. ; guide 6 , mule 12 fr.) , a
superb point of view. At Cv4taz (see above) the bridle-path crosses the
Valnontey and enters a wood, and then ascends grassy slopes to the cha-
lets of Ors-Dessus and (3 hrs.) Pousset- Dessus (8387'). 'Thence a steep
climb of IV2 hr., passing a very giddy place near the top, brings us to the
rocky crest of the Punta del Pousset. Close to us, above the Grivola
Glacier, towers the Grivola, which is hardly inferior in boldness to the
Matterhorn , and other mountains of the Pennine and Graian Alps are
also visible. — Grivola (13,018'; from Cogne 9 hrs.; two guides at 28 fr.
each), toilsome, and requiring experience. From the Chalets del Pousset
Superiori (see above ; where the night should be spent) we reach the Grivola
Glacier (10,515') in 2 hrs., cross it (IV2 hr.), and ascend the S.E. side of
the Grivola, at first over steep slopes of ice , and then rock. (Beware of
falling stones.) In 2V2-3 hrs. more we reach the top , which commands a
magnificent panorama. — Ascent from Val Savaranche much more difficult.
The Punta di Tersiva (11,522'; 7 hrs., with guide) presents no difficulty
to adepts. We proceed through the Vallone di Grauson to the C-V2 hrs.)
282 Route 77. COL DE ST. MARCEL. The Graian
cbalets of Oraiison (7449') and to (3/4 hr.) Ervilliere; thence, passing the
little Lac Doriercs , to the (1 hr.) Passo d' hivevijneux (9187') and by the
W. riilge to tho (2Vj hrs.) summit. Magnilicent view of the Graian and
Pennine Alps and of the plain of Piedmont (Turin), etc. This ascent may
be also made from the S. from the Vol d' Urtier via the Ponton Alp, or
from the N. (more diflicult) frcina the Val di Clavaliti (p. 278).
In the Vallone de Valnontey, opening to the S. of Cogne, lie the (3 hrs.)
chalets of ie Money, which command an admirable view of the Gran Paradiso
with its glaciers (ascent, see p. 28.3). Two diflicult glacier-passes, the Colic
Grand Crou or i'ol Tuckeit (11,135'), between the Gran Paradiso and Becca
di Gay and the CoUe Money (11,243') , between the Roccia Viva and the
Tour du Grand SI. Pierre, lead from the head of the Vallone de Valnontey
to Ceresole (p. 285; guide (15 fr.).
From Cogne to Baed over the Ool de Cogne, 11-12 hrs., attractive
and not difficult. A bridle-path (royal hunting-path) crosses the Urtier at
(1/2 hr.) Ckamplong (5185') , and ascends the valley of the stream with its
abundant flowers and waterfalls, commanding fine views of the Grivola to
the W., and to the S. of the Combe de Valeille (see below). We next pass
the chapel oi Cret to the (2 hrs.) chalets of Piancs. whence we may either
follow the lower path to the right by Brulot and Peyrasas, or that to the
left along the slope of the Tersiva (see above), by Ponton with its little
lake and along the Tour de Ponton, to the (2 hrs.) Col de Cogne (Fenetre
de Cogne or Finestra Cham.porcher,^2Sb'), between the Tour de Ponton and
the Becco Cosiassa. We descend into the pastoral Val Champorcher or
Camporciero , passing the chalets of Dondenna to (S'/a hrs.) Champorcher
(4647 ' 1 rustic Inn) , and thence by Pont-Boset to (21/2 hrs.) Hdne-Bard
(p. 279).
From Cogne to St. Marcel over the Col de St. Maruel, 8 hrs., not
difficult, and practicable for mules. The route leads through the Vallone
di Grauson to the (2V2 hrs.) chalets of Grauson (see above), and thence past
the little Coronas Lake to the (2 hrs.) Col de St. Marcel (Colle di Coronas,
9535'), a saddle of the Creeta del Tessonet. We descend through the wooded
Vallone di St. Marcel to &'■• hrs.) St. Marcel (p. 278X
From Cogne to Aosta over the Passo d'Arbole, see p. 281. Farther to
the E., between the Punta Garin and the Punta di Lora, is the difficult Passo
di Garin (10,476'). — To Atmaville over the CoUe de Chaz-Si-che (9249') or the
Colle del Drinc (8734'), 7-8 hrs., both attractive and without difficulty.
From Cogne to the Val Soana across the Col uella NonvA,
7-8 hrs., attractive and repaying. To Pianes, see above. Here we turn
to the right and ascend past the chalets of Chavanis and Brulot to the
foot of the glacier. Trending to the left to avoid the glacier, we reach
(3 hrs.) the Col dellaNouva [Colle delV Arietta; 9670*), and enjoy an admirable
view of Mont Blanc and the S. side of the Graian Alps. Steep descent to
the chalets of Arietta , and through the Val Campiglia to (3 hrs.) Cam-
piglia, (1/2 hr.) Valpralo, »^(\ ('/•_' hr.) Ronco (Inn, clean), in the Val Soana,
21/2 hrs. above Ponte (p. 285). — Two other passes to the Val Soana lead
respectively across the Colle Bardoney (9292'), between the Pttnta Lavina
and the Punta Rol (fatiguing), and across tho Boccheita di Rancio (9856') to
the N. of the Lavina (diflicult).
To the Val Locana (p. 285) over the Colle Grand Crou or the Colle
Money , see above. Two other difficult passes lead from the Vallone di
Valeille, the lateral vallev parallel to the Vallone d'l'rtier, on the S. (see
above) to the RIfugio (9020') of the I. A. 0. in the Val Piantonetto and the
Val d'Orco: the Colle di Telleccio (10,910') between the Tour du Grand
St. Pierre (12,110'; the difficult ascent of which may be made from the
pass) and the Ondezzana; and the Colle Sengie (10,515'), between the
Ondezzana and the Punta Sengie.
From Cogne to Val Savaeanche o^t:r the Colle Lauzon
(8-9 hrs.-, guide 10 fr.), easy and attractive. From (3/4 hr.) Val-
nontey (5503') the bridle-path ascends to the right, through wood,
passing a pretty fall of the Lauzon., to the (21/2 hrs.) royal shooting-
Alps. RHfeMES NOTRE-DAME. 77. Route. 283
lodge (8491'; Caiiipement du Roi) and the (2 hrs.) CoUe Lauzon
(10,804'), with au admirable view (still more extensive from a
height a few minutes to the S.). We now descend, enjoying
siiperh views of the Gran Paradise (1.) and Grivola (r.), to (IV2 lir.)
the Chalets de Leviona (7753'). (Good walkers may cross the brook
here near the small waterfall , and descend by a steep path direct
to Val Savaranche.) The bridle-path follows the left bank and
reaches the bottom of the Val Savaranche near the hamlet of Tignet,
1 M. to the S. of Val Savaranche, or De'gioz (5054'; Inn), the
chief village in the Val Savaranche (guides, G. Blanc and G. Dayne').
Two other somewhat fatiguing passes from Cogne to Val Savaranche
are the Col de I'Herbetet (10,830'), farther S., between the Afont Her-
betel (p. 281) and the Gran Serre , and the Colle Uesoncles (10,168'), to
the N.W., between the Grivola and the Gran Nomenon (11,440'). — From Val
Savaranche to Ceresole, see p. 284.
The Gran Paradise (13,320'; difficult, for adepts only; guide 60 fr.)
may be ascended in 7-8 hrs. from (2V4 hrs.) Pont (6382'; small Inn, with
2 R.), the highest hamlet in the Val Savaranche. About V4 lir. to the S.
of Pont we ascend to the left to (4 hrs.) the Rifugio Viitorio Emanuele II.
(9348'), built by the I.A. C, above the Moncorvi Alp, and thence cross the
Glacier de Moncorvi to the (4 hrs.) summit. The ascent may also be made
from the N. over the Glacier de Montandavne ; or from Cogne by the much
more difficult route across the Glacier de la Tribulation.
From Val Savaranche to Rhemes Notre-Dame over the Col
d'Entrelor (^hxs..; guide 6 fr.). The bridle-path ascends from
Val Savaranche by (1 M.) Cretan, at first somewhat steeply, to a
royal shooting-lodge (7183') , and thence leads in zigzags along
the slope to the left, passing (IV4 l^r.) the small Lago di Djouan
(8278') and the Lago Nero (9075') to the (I1/2 hr.) Colle d'Entrelor
(9870'), between the Cima di G allien (i0,il6') and the Cima di
Percia (10,110'). Fine view of the Rutor (p. 284) to the W., and
of the Gran Paradise and Grivola to the E. Descent rather steep
through the Val d'Entrelor, with the Becca di Sanibeina (10,368')
on the left, to (21/2 hrs.) Rhemes Notre-Dame (6015' ; poor cantine,
or a bed at the cure's), the chief place in the Val de Rhemes, which
is enclosed by imposing glaciers. Notre-Dame is 5 hrs. from Ville-
neuve. The route down the valley passes Rhemes St. Georges and
Introd (2886'), with the chateau of that name, where the Val de
Rhemes unites with the Val Savaranche (p. 284). In descending we
obtain a fine view of Mt. Velan and the Grand Combin to the N.
A shorter but more toilsome route than the Col d'Entrelor leads from
Val Savaranche to Rhemes Notre-Dame across the Colle di Sort (9730'),
which lies to the S. of the Mf. Roletta (11,100'). — From the head of the
Val de Rhemes a grand, but difficult route crosses the Colle de Rhemes nr
Col Goletta (10,233'), to the S.W., between the Bee de la Travenih-e (10,958')
and the Ste. Hiline (Tsantaleina , 11,827'), crosses the Glacier de Rhemes
and passes the Lac de la Sa-isicre, to Tignes in the upper Isere Valley
(p. 276: 16 hrs. from Aosta). To the S. E. the Colle Rossetto (9918')
leads to the Colle del Nivolet and Ceresole (p. 284).
From Rhemes Notre-Dame to Val Grisanche (and Liverogne)
over the Colle della Finestra (6 hrs. to Val Grisanche ; guide 6 fr.).
Steep ascent to the (31/-2 hrs.) Colle della Finestra (9238') , be-
284 Route 77. VAL GRISANCHE.
tween (r.) the Becca de Tei and (1.) the Becca dtlV Invergnan
(11,834') with fine view of the Ormelune and the Rutor. The
path descends through the stony Vallon del Bouc. Where it divides,
we keep to the left. On our left are the Glacier de Rabuigne
and Mont Forciat which conceals the Becca dell' Invergnan. Pass-
ing (IV2 hr.) the Alp Nouva (7022'), we descend and cross the
brook to Fornet (5677'), the highest hamlet in the Val Grisanche;
then to Sevey, Mondange, and (2hrs.) Val Grisanche (5468'; Can-
tine du Col du Mont; or a bed at the curb's), the chief village in
the valley, prettily situated at the base of the Rutor.
The ascent of the Rutor , an extensive, glacier-clad mountain with
several peaks (S. and highest peak 11,434'; N. peak 11,312'), either from
Val Griaanche, or better from La Thiiile on the Little St. Bernard route
(p. 275), presents no serious difficulty (guide 40 fr.). From La Thuile a
bridle-path leads through the deep and narrow Rutor valley to the (2 hrs.)
grand ''Falls of the Rutor (6343') whence we ascend to the left by a new
path to the (IV2 hr.) Capanna S. Margherita (80^5', situated above the
small Rutor Lake (now drained). Thence across the large Rutor Glacier
to the (3 hrs.) Tete du Rutor (11,434'), which commands a most splendid
panorama (new refuge hut of the I.A.C. on the top). — Fkom Val Gri-
sanche TO Boukg-St. Maurice (p. 275; 15 hrs. from Aosta), over the Col du
Mont (8678'), a tolerable bridle-path.
The bridle-path from Val Grisanche to Liverogne (3 hrs.) leads
through the beautifully wooded Val Grisanche, on the left bank of
the Grisanche , to Ceres or Serre (Hot. Frassy , rustic) and Revers,
where the river disappears for a short distance under rocks. The
hamlet of Planaval lies to the left. The valley contracts to a wild
ravine. The path on its left side skirts a precipice high above the
roaring torrent. On the opposite bank , on an apparently inacces-
sible rock, is perched the ruined castle of Montmajeur or Tour
d'Arhoe. Near Liverogne the path quits the gorge and descends to
the left through meadows and groups of trees to the road from Cour-
mayeur to Aosta (p. 276).
From Villeneuve to Ceuesole over the Col ue Kivolet (13 hrs.).
Ascent from Villeneuve by a paved path, rough and steep. To the W. a
line view of Blont Blanc. Opposite (2/4 hr.) Champlong. where we reach
the lowest part of the Val Savaranche (p. 283), the beautifully wooded Val
de Rhymes opens on the W. ; on the height between the valleys rises the
chateau of Introd (p. 283). Following the lofty right bank of the deep
valley, we next come to (3 hrs.) Val Savaranche (p. 282; passes to the Val
de Cogne and the Val de Rhimes, p. 283), then Tignet and Bien and (2V4 hrs.)
Pont (Inn, with 4 beds), the highest hamlet in the Val Savaranche, at the
base of the Gran Paradiso (p. 283).
The Val Savaranche divides here. We cross the brook descending
from the W. branch of the valley, and ascend a steep rocky slope in
numerous windings, passing a fine waterfall, to the (1 hr.) Croix d''Aro-
letta (7800'), a cross on the brink of a precipice, where we enjoy a
magnificent survey of the Gran Paradiso and its three peaks opposite to
us ; to the N. of which are the Becca de Montandayni^ Mont Herbetet, and
Grivola. Traversing a desolate, and at places marshy valley , with nume-
rous traces of glacier-friction, we next pass (1 hr.) the Chalets de Nivolet
(rustic little inn) and a small lake with a royal shooting-box which lie
to the left, and reach the (1 hr.) Col de Nivolet (8662'), a narrow ridge of
rock, with a superb view of the Levanna (11,943'), rising on the opposite
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CERESOLE. 71. Route. 285
side of the deep Vol d^Orco. To the W. are the lofty Col de la GaUse
and the Cima di Bousson ; to the N. the chain of the Oran Paradiso. (Route
across the CoUe Rossetto into the Val de Rhimes, see p. 283. i
Our route descends a nearly perpendicular rock, in many windings,
to a bleak valley with several small tarns and a few chalets, and thence
by steep zigzags on the left side of the brook with its numerous falls
to (2hrs.) Chapis, or Chiapili di Sopra, the highest hamlet in the Val Locana,
or valley of the Oreo, and (2 hrs.) —
Ceresole Reale (5209'; "Siabilimento, from 20th June to end of Sept.,
pens. 8 fr. ; Alb. della Levanna), with chalybeate baths, and a fine water-
fall in the vicinity.
[A very fine, but fatiguing route leads hence (or from Valsavaranche
direct) in 10 hrs. over the Col de la GALfisE , or Golise (9830'), to Tignes
(p. 276). Alpine quarters at the chalets of Serrue.]
Below the Baths we enter (1 hr.) a wild ravine ( Scalare di Ceresole),
through which the Oreo careers in a series of cascades. The path is hewn
in the rock and descends in steps. Near the (1 hr.) dirty village of
Noasca (8483'), is the beautiful fall of the Noaschetta. The valley is strewn
with huge masses of rock. At (1 hr.) Perebecche , on the left, opens the
Val Piantonetlo, which runs up towards the Tour du Grand St. Pierre, to
the Rifugio Piantonetto, a steep climb of 6V2 hrs., see p. 2&2). Then (i hr.)
Locana (Cervo, unpretending), a poor village, whence a carriage-road leads
down the fertile lower region of the valley (vines, walnuts, chestnuts (to
(71/2 M.) Ponte (~Al Valentino), an old town with the ruins of two castles,
most picturesquely situated at the union of the Val Soana (p. 282) with
the Val Locana. Omnibus daily to Ciiorgne, from which there is a rail-
way to Rivarolo and Twin (see Baedeker''s Northern Italy).
78. From Martigny to Aosta. Great St. Bernard.
I6V2 hrs. From Martigny to the Hospice 11, thence to Aosta 51/2 hrs.
(from Aosta to the Hospice 8, thence to Martigny 9 hrs.); road to (23 M.)
the Cantine de Proz (p. 287), thence to (4 hrs.) St. Re'my bridle-path (road
under construction); road again to Aosta (13 M.). Guide quite unnecessary.
As the ascent to (12 M.) Orsieres is slight, the traveller had better drive
thus far, or to Bourg-St. Pierre, then walk to St. Re'my, and drive from
St. Remy to Aosta, and so accompli.sh the journey in one day. Diligence
daily from Martigny to Orsieres in 31/4 (back, in the afternoon, in 21/4 hrs. ;
3 fr. 25 c). One-horse carr. to Orsieres 15, two-horse 20, Bourg-St. Pierre
25 or 40, Cantine de Proz 30 or 45 fr. ; if the horses are ridden from the
Cantine de Proz to the Hospice, one-horse carr. for 1-2 pers. 40, 3 pers. 50,
two-horse carr. for 4 pers. oO fr. — Chars-a-bancs and saddle- mules are
generally to be had at the Cantine : Mule to the hospice 5, from Liddes
8 fr. and fee; from Bourg-St. Pierre to St. Remy 15 fr. — One-horse carr.
from St. Remy to Aosta, 1 pers. 10, 2 pers. 12, 3 pers. 15 fr. (from Aosta
to St. Re'my, 1-2 pers.. 15 fr.). Omnibus from Aosta to St. Remy at 5 a. m.
in 4 hrs. (6 fr.) returning at 2. 30 p. m.
The Great St. Bernard Route , though less attractive than most of
the other Alpine passes, traverses some very fine scenery, and is a direct
and convenient approach to Italy (Aosta , Courmayeur) from the Rhone
Valley. A visit to the Hospice is also interesting. 'Those who do not in-
tend going farther may return through the Val Ferret (p. 289).
Martigny, see p. 232. Beyond Martigny-Bourg (p. 232) we cross
the (I72M.) Drance, 4 min. beyond which the road to Chamonix
diverges to the right (p. 268). The St. Bernard road leads through
the deep ravine of the Drance, hy Le Brocard and Le Borgeau, to
(3 M.) Les Valettes (1978' ; Restaur, des Gorges du Duriiant).
'Gorges du Surnant (from Martigny and back 4 hrs., one-horse carr. 7,
two -horse 10 fr.). A road leads from Les Valettes to the right to the
(1 M.) entrance of a rocky gorge, through which the Duriiant is precipitat-
286 Route 78. SEMBRANCHER. From Marligny
ed in 14 falls (made accessible by a wooden gallery 880 yds. in length,
(adm. 1 fr. ; Inn by the entrance). From the upper end of the gorge the
path ascends to the bridle-path to Champex (see below). — Fine view from
the hill of Lombard (2SS8', see below), ascended to the left from the lower
end of the gorge in 1/2 hr., by a shady path.
Beyond (3/4 M.) Bovernier (2037') the Drance traverses a wood-
ed gorge, where its course is impeded by huge masses of rock,
especially near the (l'/2M.) Galerie de la Monnaie (2362'), a tunnel
70 yds. long. In 1818 a great fall of rock was caused here by the
bursting of a lake in the Val de Bagnes (p. 291). At (I1/2 M.) Sem-
brancher (2330'; Inn) the Drance d'Entremont, descending from the
St. Bernard, unites with the Drance de Bagnes (p. 291). On a hill
stands a ruined castle. To the right rises the abrupt Catogne (8460').
From Martignt to Sembr.\noher, over the Mont Chemin, 4 hrs.,
interesting, especially in the reverse direction (fine views of the Rhone
Valley). From Marligny- Bourg the path ascends to the left, through
wood, by C/iemin d'en Bus to Chemin (3786'), leads to the right past iron-
mines to Vence (3701'), and descends in windings to Sembrancher.
From Sembrancher to Saxon over the Pas du Lens (5446'), 5 hrs., a
bridle-path. — The Pierre-a-Voir (8123'; guide 7 fr.) may be ascended
from Sembrancher in 5-6 hrs. (comp. p. 232).
12 M. Orsieres (2894'; Hot. des Alpes), 4 M. farther, at the
mouth of the Ferret Valley (p. 275), has a curious old tower.
From Martignt to Orsieres by the Val Champex (5V2 hrs.), bridle-
path, more interesting and not much longer than the high-road. Road to
(4V2 M.) Les Valettes, see p. 285. Here we ascend to the right (or we may
go through the Gorges du Durnant), and ascend gradually through pasture
and wood, by Lombard (see above), Crettet, and Champex (4490'; Pens. & Re-
staurant du Lac, rustic), to the (2'/4 hrs.) top of the pass (4903'), to the S.W.
of Mont Catogne (see above). The path then descends past the small Lac de
Champex (4807'; Restaurant), and leads to the left by Biollay to (I'A hr.)
Ot'siives. In the reverse direction this route is not so pleasant, owing to
the steep ascent from Orsieres to the Col. — From Champex an ascent of
3 hrs. through the monotonous Val d''Arpeite to the Col des Ecandies
{Feneire d'Arpette, 8800'); magnificent survey thence of the Glacier de
Trient (p. 268), one of the finest views of the kind in Switzerland. The
descent may be made by the right side of the glacier to (3 hrs.) the Col
de la Forclaz (p. 267).
From Orsieres to Courmayeur over the Col Ferrety see p. 274. — Passes
to Chamonix (Cols du Tour, du Chardonnet, d^Argentih'e, etc.), see p. 265. —
The Cabane d'Orny (8835') may be reached from Orsieres in 7 hours.
Very interesting, and without difficulty or danger, thence to ascend the
Glacier d'Orny to the 'neve' of the Glacier de Trient (p. 267) and the (3 hrs.)
Feneire de Saleinaz (10,860'); fine view (thence to the Col dn Chardonnet
and to Lognan, see p. 265). — Guides, Henri Copt, Fr. Biselx, and others.
The ascent of the *lffont Briile (8450'; 41/2 hrs., with guide) from Or-
sieres is an easy and attractive expedition. The view from the top em-
braces the entire chain of the Bernese and V.Tlaisian Alps, with the Lake
of Geneva and the Jura in the background ; in the foreground are the
Dent du Midi, the Orny and Trient chain, the Grand Combin, etc. The
ascent may also be conveniently made from Liddes (p. 287; 4 hrs.) or
Chable (p. 291 ; 5 hrs.).
The road crosses the Drance, which is seldom visible in its
deep bed, and ascends in a long bend (which the old bridle-
path cuts off). On entering the upper part of the valley we
obtain an admirable view of Mont Velan (p. 287), which with
its snow and ice fills the background. The slopes of the broad
to Aosta. LIDDES. 78. Route. 287
valley are covered with pastures aud corn-fields. Between Fon-
taine-Dessous (3800') and Rive Haute (4010') the road again de-
scribes a long curve which walkers may cut off. It passes the
chapel of St. Laurent, and reaches (43/4 M.) —
I63/4M. Liddes(4390'; *l]nion; An^^Ze^erre ; mule to the hospice
8 fr. and fee), a considerable village. On the left rise the finely
shaped Merignier (10,403') and the Maisons Blanches (12,137').
Above Liddes is the chapel of St. Etienne. At Alleves we cross the
brook of that name, coming from the Glacier de Boveyre, pass the
chapel of Notre-Dame de Lorette on the left, and reach (3'/4M.) —
20 M. Bourg-St. Pierre, or St. Pierre - Mont - Joux (5358'; *Au
Dejeuner de Napoleon^, a large village at the mouth of the Valsorey,
with a church of the 11th century. (On the wall by the tower is
a Roman milestone.) Some traces of old fortifications, with an an-
cient gateway, are to be seen on the S. side of the village. On a
hill to the left of the road is the new Botanical Garden ^Linnaea',
laid out in 1889 by the Jardin Alpin of Geneva and always acces-
sible (key at the 'Dejeuner de Napoleon'; keeper the guide Jules
Bailey).
Excursions. (Good guides, Dan., Eman., Jules Bailey, and Michel
Oenoud.) The Tete de Bois (2V2 hrs. ; guide 6fr.; mules also) commands
the Munt Blanc and Combin group, and the Val d'Entremont below.
A good path leads through the interesting Valsorey, on the right
bank of the Valsorey, to a fine waterfall and to the (2V2 hrs.) Chalets
d'Amont (TlOiy), in a grand situation. The background is formed by the
Glacier du Valsorey, and others uniting with it, (1.) that of Sonadon, des-
cending from the Grand Combin, and (r.) that of Tzeudet. Beautiful view
of the dazzling snows of Mont Velan and the jagged rocks of the Luisettes.
— The night is passed at these chalets by travellers about to cross the
Col des Maisons Blanches (12,005') or the Col du Sonadon (11,447') to the
Val de Bagnes (p. 291), or the Col du Valsorey or des Chamois (10,213') to
the Val Ollomont (p. 293). — The Grand Combin (14,163') may be ascended
from the Chalets d'Amont by the Col des Maisons Blanches, or better by
the Glacier du Sonadon, in 8-9 hrs. (grand, but difficult, for experts only ;
guide 40 fr.). Ascent easier from the Cabane de Fanossiire (comp. p. 29i).
Beyond St. Pierre the road crosses the deep gorge of the Valso-
rey, which forms a waterfall above the bridge. It was here that
Napoleon, during Ms famous passage of the Alps with 30,000 men
on 15th-21stMay, 1800, encountered the greatest difficulties. The
road, hewn in the rock, and avoiding the steep parts of the old
route, traverses the forest of St. Pierre and the Defile de Charreire.
Fine scenery; several falls of the Drance. At the (3M.) Cantine
de Proz (5982'), a lonely inn, at the beginning of the Plan de Proz,
the highest pasture in the valley, the road ends. To the E. rises the
snow-clad Mont Velan, from which descends the Glacier de Proz,
with its extensive moraines.
For the ascent of "Mont Velan (12,353'; 6-7 hrs. ; difficult; for experts
only; guide 25 fr.), the starting-point is either the Cantine de Proz
(6 hrs. to the top, crossing the Glacier de Proz, very steep at places), or
the Chalets d''Ainont (see above; ascent rather longer, but less difficult).
Above the chalets we ascend a 'cheminee' to the E. moraine of the
Glacier du Valsorey, cross the glacier to the E. rocky slope of Ml. de la
288 Route 78. ST. BERNARD HOSPICE. From Martiyny
Oouille. and moiint (an interesting clamber) to the upper and grandest
part of the glacier ; cross it , ascend another cheminee, traverse masses
of rock, and reach the summit in 6-7 hrs. in all. Magnificent view: N.,
as far as the Lake of Geneva; S., to the Val d'Aosta. Immediately to the
W. towers Mont Blanc ; to the N.E. the Grand Combin.
The Beidle-Path ascends the boulder-strewn pastures of the
Plan de Proz to 20 min. the Cantine den Haul, traverses the Pas
de Marengo, a rocky defile, and reaches (li/4hr.) Hospitalet (6890'),
two stone chalets and an Alpine dairy in a broader part of the valley,
across the stream, to the right. It next (20 min.) crosses the Drance
by the Pont Nudrit (7336'), recrosses it farther on by the (16 min.)
Pont Tronchet (7457'), and leads through the dreary Orande Combe
to the (Y2 hr-) Hospice.
The Hospice of St. Bernard (8120'), situated on the pass, con-
sists of two large buildings. One contains the church, the dwellings
of the brethren, and numerous rooms for travellers ; the other and
smaller (Hotel de St. Louis) is a refuge in case of fire, and contains
the store-house and lodging for poor v?ayfarers. On arriving, strangers
are welcomed by one of the brethren, who conducts them to a room
and presides over the meals (at 12 and 6 or 7 ; Frid. and Sat. are
fast-days). Travellers are boarded and lodged gratuitously, but few
will deposit in the alms-box ('tron^on des aumones, in the church,
near the centre of the left wall), less than they would have paid at
a hotel.
In 962 St. Bernard de Menthon (p. 251) founded the monastery here.
The inmates now consist of 10-15 Augustinian monks and 7 attendants
(maroniers), whose office it is to receive and lodge strangers gratuitously,
and to render assistance to travellers in danger during the snowy season,
which here last^ nearly nine months. In this work of benevolence they
are aided by the famous St. Bernard dogs, whose kennels are worth
visiting. Their keen sense of smell enables them to track and discover
travellers buried in the snow, numbers of whom have been rescued by
these noble and sagacious animals. The stock is said to have come ori-
ginally from the Spanish Pyrenees, but the genuine old breed is extinct.
The brotherhood of St. Bernard consists of about 40 members. Some
01 the monks minister in the Hospice on the Simplon (p. 297) ; others
perform ecclesiastical functions. The sick and aged have an asylum at
Martigny. Next to the fourth Cantoniera S. Maria on the Stelvio Pass
(p. 415) St. Bernard is the highest winter habitation in the Alps. Hum-
boldt in his 'Kosmos' mentions that the mean temperature at the Hospice
of St. Bernard (45° N. latitude) is 30° Fahr. (in winter 15°, spring 25°,
summer 48°, autumn 32°), and that such a low temperature would only be
found on the sea-level at a latitude of 75° (the S. Cape of Spitzbergen).
The monastery was very wealthy in the middle ages. The benefi-
cence of its object was widely recognised by extensive grants, chiefly by
the emperors of Germany, and gifts from various parts of Christendom; but
it was afterwards impoverished by various vicissitudes. The 30-40,000fr.
required for its annual support are in part derived from the revenues of the
monastery, and in part from annual collections made in Switzerland; the
gifts of travellers, it must be said with regret, form a very insignificant
portion of the sum. Of late years 16-20,000 travellers have been annually
accommodated, while the sum they have contributed barely amounts to what
would be a moderate hotel -charge for 1000 guests. The expenses of the
establishment are increasing. Provisions are generally brought from Aosta,
and in .T>ily, August, and September about twenty horses are employed
daily in the transport of fuel from the Val Ferret (p. 289), 4 hrs. distant.
to Aosta. ST. BERNARD HOSPICE. 75. Route. 289
The traveller will hardly quit the hospice without a feeling of venera-
tion and compassion for this devoted fraternity. They generally begin
their career at the age of 18 or 19. After about fifteen years' service the
severity of the climate has undermined their constitutions, and they are
compelled to descend with broken health to the milder climate of Mar-
tigny or some other dependency. Amid the pleasure and novelty of the
scene, the traveller is too apt to forget the dreariness of the eight or nine
months of winter, when all the wayfarers are poor, when the cold is in-
tense , the snow of great depth , and the dangers from storms frequent
and imminent. It is then that the privations of these heroic men are most
severe, and their services to their fellow-creatures most invaluable.
During the Italian campaigns of 1798, 1799, and 1800, the pass was
crossed by several hundred thousand soldiers, French and Austrian. In
1799 the Austrians endeavoured to pass the hospice, but after several
fierce engagements the French remained masters of the pass, and kept a
garrison of 180 men in the hospice for a whole year. Napoleon's famous
passage has already been mentioned (p. 287). The Romans used this route
in B.C. 100. After the foundation of Augusta Praeioria Salassorum (Aosta,
B.C. 26) it became more frequented. Constantine caused the road to be
improved in 339. The Lombards made the passage about 547; Bernard,
an uncle of Charlemagne, marched an army by this route into Italy in
773, and , according to some, gave his name to the pass.
The present substantial edifice dates from tlie middle of the 16th
cent., the church from 1680. The walls of the dining-room are hung
with engravings and pictures, the gifts of grateful travellers. In the
library on the upper floor is a collection of ancient and modern
coins, relics found in the environs (fragments of votive brass tablets
offered to Jupiter Pce.ninus after escape from danger, statuettes,
etc.), and a small natural history collection. The visitors' books con-
tain many well-known names. A chapel to the left of the entrance
to the church contains the monument of General Desaix , who fell
at the battle of Marengo in 1800. Relief by Moitte.
Near the hospice is the Morgue, a receptacle for bodies found
in the snow. The small lake to the W. of the monastery is some-
times coated with ice on summer mornings. — Towards the E. of the
hospice we observe the snow-capped Mont Velan, adjoined on the
left by the Combin de Corbassiere (12,210').
The 'Chenaletta (9476'; I'/a hr., steep at places ; guide necessary), to the
X. of the Hospice; the Pointe des Lacerandes (^Pic de Dronaz; 9676'; 2V2-
3 hrs., with guide ; trying), to the N.W. ; and the Mont Mort (9403'), IV2 hr.
to the S.E., all command magnificent views of Mont Blanc, the Graian
Alps, Monte Rosa, and (N.) the Bernese Alps, while the Mont Velan
and Grand-Combin are quite near.
From the Hospice to Martignt ovek the Col de FENftTEE (9 hrs. ;
with guide), recommended as a return-route to persons visiting the Hospice
from Martigny. From the path to the Vacherie (p. 290) the (20 min.) bridle-
path ascends rather steeply to the right, to the (1 hr.) Col de Fenetre
(8856'; fine view). It descends over debris and sometimes snow, past the
three small Lacs de Fenetre, to the chalets of (l'/4 hr.) Plan la C/iaud and
(1 hr.) Ferret (5566'), where it unites with the route from the Col Ferret
(p. 275). — From the Hospice to Codrmayecr (9-10 hrs.) the direct route is
across the Col de Fenetre and the Col Ferret. In order to reach the Col
Ferret we need not descend from the Col de Fenetre to Ferret, but (guide
advisable) beyond the third lake we turn to the left, descend steep grassy
slopes to a bridge over the Drance, follow its left bank for a time, and then
ascend on the right bank of the brook coming from the Col de Fenetre. until
(after about 50 min.) we can cross it. A steep ascent of '/-j hr. more brings us
to the Col Ferret route (p. 274; from the Hospice to the Col, 5 hrs.).
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 19
290 Route 78. ST. REMY.
On the N.W. side of the lake on the St. Bernard Pass, near a
small hrook , are stones marking the Italian frontier. On the ad-
jacent Plan de Jupiter once rose a temple to Jupiter Poeninus.
The mountain has thence derived its Italian name of Monte Jove,
locally Mont Joux, and the range is called the Pennine Alps. The
path rounds an angle of rock and descends in a wide bend to La
Vacherie, a green pasture, where the cattle of the hospice graze, with
several chalets, and the Cantine (7270'), or road-menders' house.
To the W. rises the conical Pain de Sucre (9515'). A shorter foot-
path, diverging to the left at a cross, before the above-mentioned
angle of rock, rejoins the bridle-path here. The path zigzags down
the left side of the valley, and then descends gradually to (1 hr.)
St. Bemy (5353'; unpretending Inn), the first Italian village, where
the road begins. The first house on the right is the custom-house.
Mule and attendant to the Hospice 4'/2 fr.
Fbom St. Rkmt to Codrmayeur over the Col de la Serena (7580'),
9-10 hrs., fatiguing and somewhat uninteresting. (From the hospice over
the Col de Fenetre and Col de Ferret preferable, see p. 289.)
The deep and narrow Val des Bosses diverges from the valley of
St. Bernard beyond St. Re'my. Cultivation on both sides of the
valley begins at (2' '4 M.) St. Oj/en (4515'), and becomes richer
at (lt/-2 M.) Etroubles (4198'; Auberge Nationale). The road cross-
es the Buthier here, and skirts the right side of the valley, soon
running high above the river. Opposite, on the slope, is the
church of Allein. 2 M. Les Echevenoz (4050'), a hamlet; II/2 M .
La Cluse (3942'), a solitary house. By (1 M.) the village of Con-
demine a view is disclosed of the long Valpellina, with the snow-
clad Mont Collon (p. 311) in the background. To the N. tower
the rounded summit of Mont Velan and the imposing pyramid of
the Grand Combin. The road descends in long windings to ( 1 Y2M.)
Gignod (3260'), with a square tower of the 14th cent., most pic-
turesquely situated opposite the entrance to the Valpellina from
which the main arm of the Buthier descends. Far below is the
white church-tower of Roysan, and farther up lies the village of
Valpelline. (Passes from the Valpellina to the Val St. Barthe-
lemy , Val de Bagnes , Val d'He'rens , and to Zermatt, pp. 278,
320, 328.)
The scenery now assumes a softer character; walnuts, chestnuts,
vines, and maize thrive luxuriantly. The road, running high up on the
right side of the valley, gradually descends. Before us the fine pyra-
mid of the Grivola is visible for a time. To the left is the blunted
cone of Mt. Mary (9230'). Beyond (2'/4M.) Signayes, where the ex-
tensive vineyards of Aosta begin , the three-peaked Rutor appears
on the right. Before us rise the Becca di Nona and Mt. Emilius;
to the left, the S. spurs of Mte. Rosa.
I'/o M. Aosta, see p. 276.
291
79. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre.
Val de Bagnes.
Coinp. Map., p. 2S1.
Fi'Oin Martigny to Mauvoisin about 8 hrs. (Sembrancher 2^4 M., Chable
11/2, Champsec 1, Lourtier '/2, Mauvoisin 2'/2 brs.)- To Lourtier a good
i-oad (one-horse carr. 18 fr.); thence a bridle-path. — Travellers going
to Aosta over the Col de Fen£tee (guide 18 fr. -, Sh'aphin and Justin
Bessard; F. Besse ; Maur.-Anf. Troillet, and others at Chable) should pass
the night at Blauvoisin, or at Chermontane, 2V4 hrs. farther up. From Cher-
montane to the pass IV2, Valpellina 4, Aosta 2 hrs. Good carriage-road from
Valpellina to Aosta.
From Martigny to (8 M.) Sembrancher, see p. 286. We diverge
here to the left from the St. Bernard road, cross the Drance, and
follow the right bank of the Drance de Bagnes to (4'/2 M.) Chable
(2743'; *Eot. clu Gietroz, moderate; Hot. du Grand-Combin, me-
diocre), the capital of the Val de Bagnes, picturesquely situated.
In the background to the S.E. the snow-clad Ruinette (12,727');
to the left Mont PLeureur (12,155') and the Glacier de Gietroz.
The Pierre- a -Voir (8123') may be ascended hence in 5 hrs. (guide
6fr.; comp. p. 232). — Mont BrSle (8450') in 5 hrs.. via Zeppelet and Mille
(comp. p. 286). — Over the Col des Etablons to Riddes, see p. 294.
We now follow the left bank of the Drance, pass Montagnier on
the right bank, and reach Versegere and (21/2 M.) Champsec (2966').
Here we cross the Drance and ascend to (1/9 tr.) Lourtier (3657';
rustic inn), where the road ends. Between Lourtier and Mauvoisin
the Drance forms several falls ; at (1 hr.) Granges Neuves it receives
a large contribution from the Glacier de Corbassiere. Then (20 min.)
Fionney (4910'; Hot. -Pens. Canon; Hot.-Pens. Besse^.
To the Cabane de Panossiere (8900') a most interesting excursion (from
Fionney, by the Corbassiire Alp., 4'/2 hrs., with guide; from Slauvoisin,
over the Col de Plangolin or the Col des Otanes, 9350', in 372-4 hrs.). This
club-hut, finely situated on the margin of the huge Corbassiere Glacier, is
the starting-point for the Combin de Corbassiere (12,212'), the Tovrnelon
Blaac (12.182'), the Col des Maisons Blanches (p. 292), etc. The Grand
Combin (14,163'; 7-8 hrs.) is best ascended from tliis point, but it requires
experience and a steady head (comp. pp. 287, 292).
Passes. To the E. of Fionney a fatiguing route crosses the Alp Le
Cret (7577') to the Col du Cret (10.330'; splendid view), on the S. side of
the Parrain (10,702') ; descent over the Glacier des Ecoulaies to the (6-7 hrs.)
Alp La Burma in the Val des Dix (1 hr. below Liappey, p. 310). A
similar pass is the Col de Sevreu (10,500'J, between the Parrain and
Rosa Blanche; ascent by Alp Sevreu and the small glacier of that name
to the (41/2 hrs.) col, with tine view; descent to (2 hrs.) La Barma (guide
over the Col du Cret, or Col du Sevreu, and the Col de la Meina to
Evolena 18 fr.). — Two other passes (trying, for mountaineers onlv), one
the Col de Cleuson (9567), to the W. of the Rosa Blanche (10,985';" an ad-
mirable point, easily ascended from the pass in I1/4 hr.), the other the
Col de Louvie (9510'), to the S.E. of the Mont Fort (10,925'), lead to the
N.E. to the glacier of the Grand Desert. Descent thence to the (8-9 hrs.)
Alp Cleuson (6975') in the Val de Nendaz, whence a good bridle-path leads
to (3hrs.) JVenda2(3340') and (2i/2hrs.) Sion (p. 294). From the Col de Cleuson
the traveller mav prefer to cross the Grand De'scrt towards the N.E. and
the Col de Prazjleuri (9748') to the Val des Dix.
Above Fionney the valley becomes narrower and wilder. The
bridle-path leads on the right bank of the Drance by Bnnatchesse
19*
292 Route 79. VAL DE BAGNES.
to the (II/2 l^r.) bridge of Mauvoisin, or Montvoisin (5570'), span-
ning the Drance , which flows 100' below. Wihl scenery; to the
left the precipitous Mt. Pleureur, 12,155'). On the opposite bank,
20 niin. higher, is the '^Hotel du Gietroz (5847').
About 1 M. to the S. of the hotel, on the right side of the valley, is
the Cascade du GMroz^ the discharge of the Glacier de Gietroz, which
has receded much of late. A good view of it may he obtained from the
Pierre & Vire (7823'), ascended by the chapel behind the inn in I'/i hr.
In the winter of 1817-18 the fallen masses of ice and snow so impeded the
Drance that a considerable lake was formed above Mauvoisin. In Juno,
1818, this sheet of water burst its barriers and caused terrible devastation
throughout the entire Val de Bagnes as far as Sembrancher and Martigny.
A similar catastrophe occurred in 1595.
The path again descends to the Drance and intersects the former
bed of the lake. It next leads through the ravine of Torrembey, and
passes the chalets of (1 V2 ^'"0 PeiHe Chermontane (6290') and Vingt-
huit. By the (1/2 hr.) chalets of Boussine (6570'), we come in sight
of the glaciers; to the E. the Glacier de Breney, which has much
receded, is visible high above us. The chalets of Lancey (6716) lie
on the right bank. The path then crosses the moraines and the flat
lower end of the Glacier du Mont Durand, and (^/^ hr.) reaches the
Alp Grande Chermontane (7313') , grandly situated, at the foot of
the vast Glacier d'Otemma. The chalets here are usually occupied
from the middle of July to the middle of August only (night-quart-
ers). Opposite, on the right side of the valley, is the finely situated
Alji Chanrion (7907'; 1 hr. from Chermontane). The head of the
valley is encircled from W. to E. by the Tour de Boussine (12,590'),
Grand Com6m (14,163'), Mont ^vrit (10,985'), Mont (?eie (11,580'),
Tourme de Bouc (10,972'), and Pointe d'Otemma (10,985').
Excursions. The 'Mont Avril (10,985'), from Chermontane by the
Col de Fenetre, 3 hrs., easy (see below; guide 10 fr.). — The Tour de
Boussine (12,590'), by the Glacier du Mont Durand, 6 hrs., not easy (guide
25 fr.). — The Grand Combin (14,163'), by the Col du Soiuidon (see below),
in lOhrs.. difficult (guide 40 fr. ; comp. p. 291). — Mont Blanc de Seilon
(12,700'), from Mauvoisin, by the Glacier de Gietroz, 9-10 hrs. (guide 30 fr.)-,
or better from Ldappey, over the Col de fieiloti, in 8-9 hrs.; magnificent
view. — Mont Pleureur (12,155'), from Mauvoisin, by the Alp GiHroz,
8 hrs. (guide 15 fr.), not very difficult. — The Pointe d'Olemma (10,935'),
from Chanrion (6 hrs., g\iide 12 fr.); Tournelon Blanc (12,180'; 8 hrs.,
15 fr.); Combin de Corbassiisre (12,210'; 10 hrs., 20 fr.); La Salle (11,940';
7 hrs., 12 fr.); La Luette (11,627'; 7-8 hrs., 15 fr.) ; Serpentine (12,110';
10 hrs., 20 fr.), and Ruinette (12,727'; 10 hrs., 30 fr.) may also be ascended
))y mountaineers (distances and tariff from Mauvoisin).
Passes. Over the Col du Sonadon (11,447') to Hourg-St. Pierre, a
difficult glacier-pass (11-12 hrs., guide 30 fr.): from Chermontane to the
W., up the Glacier du Mont Durand to the pass , on the S. side of the
Grand Combin ; descent over the Glacier du Sonadon to the Valsorey
(p. 287) and Bourg-Sl. Pierre (p. 287). — Over the Col des Maisons Blanches
(11,240'), 12-13 hrs. from Mauvoisin or Fionney to Eourg-St. Pierre, grand,
but difficult (guide 2ofr.; spend night in the Gabane de Panossiire, p. 291).
— To the S., besides the Col de Fenetre (p. 293), another route crosses
the Col de Crete Seche (9500'), traversing the lower end of the Glacier
d''Olemmct and the Glacier de Crete Seche, to the Valpellina (to Valpelline
9 hrs., guide 18 fr.). — To the Val d'Heremence over the Col de Seilon
(10,663'; 5'/4 hrs. from Mauvoisin to Liappey; 6'/4 hrs. to Arulla), by the
Glacier de GiHroz and the crevasscd Glacier de Durand or Seilon, fatiguing
COL DE FENETRE. 79. Route. 293
(better from Lancey over the Glacier de Lyrerose and the Col du Afoul
Rouge, comp. p. 312). Over the Col de Breney (11,975'; 8-9 hrs. from
Chermontane to the Alp Seilon, p. 311), difficult. From the Col de Breney
the 'Pigno d^AroUa (12,472'), a superb point of view, may be ascendfed in
1/2 hr. (comp. p. 312). From the Glacier Durand or Seilon we may cross
the Col de Riedmatten or the Pas de CMvres to the E. to Ai'oUa (see p. 312).
— Over the Col de Vasevay (10,705'; 6-7 hrs. from Wauvoisin to Liappey),
interestinc;, and not very difficult. — To Arolla over the Glacier d^Otemma
and Col de CJiennontane (11 hrs.), see p. 312; Col de VEveque (13 hrs.),
see p. 312. — From the upper Glacier d'Otemma over the Col d^Olemma
(about 11,025') or the Col de la Reuse d^ Arolla or Col d' Oren (10,637') to Val-
pelline, difficult (9-10 hrs. from Chermontane to Pra-Rayc'; guide 20 fr.).
The route from Chermontane to the (II/.2 hr.) Col de Fenetre
(9140'J ascends at first over pastures and then over loose stones
and moraine-deposits, skirting the Glacier de Fenetre. To the left
rises the Mt. Gele (ii,6i0'') ; to the right the Mont Avril (iO,Q8b''),
a splendid point of view (1 V2"'2 hrs. from the pass ; no difficulty).
The col commands a fine view of the Val dCOllomont and the Graian
Alps (p. 280). A bridle-path descends past the chalets of Balme and
Vaux to (3 hrs.) Ollomont (4385'; small inn) and (2/4 hr.) Val~
pelline (3129' ; two small inns), from which a good road leads to
(9 M.) Aosta (p. 276).
80. From Martigny over the Simplon to Novara or
to the Lago Maggiore.
Comp. Maps, j'P- SS4, 29i, 298, SOS, 430.
155 M. Railway from Martigny to (471/2 M.) Brieg in 2V2-3 hrs., fares
Ofr. 50, 6fr. 30, 4fr. 75c. (from Lausanne to Brieg in 5-6 hrs., fares
16fr. 70, llfr. 30. 8fr. 35c.; from Geneva to Brieg in 81/2 hrs., fares
23fr. 30, 15fr. 80. llfr. 65c.). — Diligence from Brieg to Domo d'Ossola
(41 SI.) twice daily in summer, in 83/4-9V2 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 5, coupe
19 fr. 30 c). — Railway from Domo d'Ossola to Xovara via Gravellona
and Orta (56 M.) in 31/2 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 20, 7 fr. 15, 4 fr. 60 c). — Post-
Dmnibus from Gravellona (20 31. from Domo d'Ossola, I'/i hr. by rail) four
times daily to Pallanza (6 M.) in 1 hr. (fares 1 fr., coupe or" banquette
IV2 fr.), twice daily to Baveno (5 M.) in 40 min. (fares 80c., 1 fr. 20 c.)
and Stresa (71/2 31.) in 1 hr. (fares 1 fr. 20, 1 fr. 80 c). — Diligence-seats,
see Introd. IX. The diligence starts from the station at Brieg, and then
stops at the post-office. Luggage to be sent by post over the Simplon
must be booked the previous night. It cannot be conveyed beyond Iselle
(Italian frontier, p. 300) unless the keys are sent with it to the custom-
house there. — Carriage with one horse from Brieg to Domo d'Ossola
45 fr., with two horses 90 fr. (apply at the hotels).
Martigny (1560'), see p. 232. (From Geneva or Lausanne to
Martigny, see RR. 65, 69.)
The Rhone Valley from Slartigny to Brieg presents few attractions
to pedestrians. The valley, averaging 21/2 31. in width, formerly showed
many traces of the disastrous inundations of the Rhone , or Rhodan , or
Rotten (p. 303), as the river is called in the Valaisian patois, and its
ributaries, but since the extensive improvements recently efl'ected in the
river-channels, vineyards, meadows, fruit-gardens, and potato-fields are
gradually spreading. The valley is enclosed on both sides by lofty
mountain-cliains, at the foot of which (especially on the right or X. bank
beyond Sierre) vines flourish. Snow-clad peaks rise here and there from
the lateral valleys to the S. A kind of gnat , with black gau?.y wings, is
a source of great annoyance in the marshy parts of the lower valley, es-
pecially in the evening ; bedroom-windows should therefore be closed early.
294 Route 80. SIGN. From Marliyny
At Martigny the Khone Valley forms a right angle. The railway,
not far from the left bank of the river, runs straight to the (5 M.)
Baths of Saxon (1572'; ^Gr.-Hot. des Bains). The Etablissement
de Bains (water impregnated with iodine) lies 1/4 M. to the right of
the station. The village, commanded by a ruined castle, is pictur-
esquely situated in a gorge at the foot of the Pierre-k-Voir.
Ascent of the Pierre-a-Voir (8123') from Saxon 5-6 hrs. , a bridle-path
(guide 6, horse and man 12 fr.); see p. 232. — To Chable in the Val de
Bagnes (p. 291) from Saxon (or from Riddes, see below), a bridle-path over
the Col des Etablons (7130'; fine view) in 7 hrs. (guide unnecessary). — To
Semhrancher over the Pas du Lens, see p. 286.
On a hill on the right bank of the Rhone is Saillon, with a ruin-
ed castle. The train crosses the Rhone (1572') beyond (8M.) Riddes,
and the Liserne at (11 M.) Ardon (Hot. du Pont). Ardon, Vetroz,
and Conthey, all yielding excellent wine (see p. 239), lie at the foot
of the hills to the left. The train crosses the Morge.
151/2 M. Sion, Ger. Sitten (1710'; pop. 4871 ; -^Toste, R., L., &
A. 31/2, D- 3 fr., omnibus 50 c.; Hot. du Midi, moderate), the Roman
Sedunum, the capital of Canton Valais, which formed the French De-
partement du Simplon in 1810-15, lies on the Sionne, which flows
through it in an artificial channel covered with beams (Sue du
Grand-pont, forming the principal street). From a distance the town,
with its castles on isolated hills, has a handsome appearance. On
the height to the N. are the ruins of the episcopal castle of Tour-
6i(ion (2150'), erected in 1294, and burned down in 1788 (reached
in 20min. by the Rue du Chateau, to the left by the town-hall);
extensive view, down to Martigny, and up toLeuk. On the lower hill
to the right, on the site of a Roman fort, stands the old castle of Va-
leria (2038'), surrounded by towers and other buildings , among
which is the Church of Notre Dame de Valere (9-13th cent.), with
remarkable capitals, pictures, carved choir-stalls, etc. The newly-
founded cantonal Antiquarian Museum occupies an adjacent room.
— Close to the town , near Tourbillon, is the castle of Majoria,
which was also burned down with a portion of the town in 1788 ;
part of it is now a barrack.
In the town itself the Gothic Cathedral (end of the 15th cent.,
with a tower of the 9th cent.) and the elegant church of St. Theo-
dule adjoining it are objects of interest. In the old mansion of the
Supersaxo family, in the Gundisgasse, is a fine hall with an artistic-
ally carved Renaissance ceiling of 1505 (visitors admitted).
From Sion over the Raioyl to Tlnin, see R. 55; over the Pas de Cheville
to Bex, see R. 68; over the Sanetsch to Gsteig, see p. 233 (the Hdtel Sct-
netsch at Zanfleuron may be reached from Sion in 5 hrs.), etc. — To the
Mayens de Sion and Evolena, sec R. 83. — In the deep ravine of the Borgne,
about 1 M. from iJcamois (p. 309; 3 M. to the E. of Sion), is the hermitage
of Longehovgne, hewn out of the rock, and much frequented by pilgrims.
Above Sion the Boryne descends from the Val d'Herens (p. 309),
at the head of which we obtain a glimpse of the Dents de Veisivi,
Near (I91/2 M.) St. Leonard we cross the Riere, which rises on the
to Novara. SIERRE. 80. Route. 295
Rawyl. 21 M. Granges; the village, with a ruined castle and a
church on the hill, lies on the left bank of the Rhone, 1/9 M. to
the S.
251/2 M. Sierra, Ger. Siders (1765'; pop. 1337; *Poste, R.,
L., & A. 21/2 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c. ; *BeUevue, with garden, R. & L. 2,
B. 1, 1). 4, pens. 6 fr. ; Eng. Church Service in summer), with a
number of interesting , but mostly dilapidated mediaeval houses,
lies picturesquely on a hill, amidst luxuriant vegetation. On the
side next the Rhone is the Schinderthurm, or ruined castle of
Vieux-Sierre, with a fine view of the Val d'Anniviers and the
Rothhorn. On a rocky hill above the Rhone, '/2 M. to the S., is the
Geronde (2043'), formerly a Carthusian monastery, now a farm, with
two little lakes (baths). Good wine is produced in this district.
From Sierre to St. Luc in the Val d'Anniviers (Bella Tola) and Zitial,
and passes to the Turtmann Valley and the Val d''Herens , see R. 83. —
Interesting ascent of the Mont Bonvin (9843'), by Miege and the Praberon
and Colombire Alps, 7-8 hrs. ; superb view of the Valaisian Alps, and of
the Glacier de la Plaine Morte and the Wildstrubel to the N.
Beyond Sierre a short tunnel and a deep cutting. 27^/2 M. Sal-
gesch, Fr. Salquencn.i a wine-growing village. The line, hewn in
the rock at places, skirts the hill-side, and approaches the Rhone,
the valley of which is strewn with de'bris. On the opposite side is
the Illgrahen (see below). We cross the deep gorge of the Dala,
pass through another tunnel, and cross the Rhone to —
3OV2M. Leuk-Susten, Fr. Loeche-Souste {2QW -^ ""Hotel de la
Souste, R., L., & A. 2'/2-3V2, I>- 3-4 fr.; '^'Rail. Restaurant). The
little old town of £eufc, with its castle and towers (p. 181), lies on
the right bank , high above the Rhone. On a hill to the left is
perched the church of Varen.
To the Baths of Leuk (3 hrs. on foot), see p. 181; one-horse carr. 13
(there and back 18 fr.), two-horse 25 fr.
The High Road from Sierre to Leuk Station traverses the Forest
of Pfyn. about 2 M. long and '/2 M. broad, a range of pine-clad hills, 100' to
200' high. On the E. side of these hills lies Pfyn (1853'), Fr. Finge (ad fines),
the boundary between the two languages. From this point to the source
of the Rhone. German only is spoken. Before reaching stat. Leuk, the
road crosses a canal, 16' deep, which in rainy weather drains the 'Ill-
grahen, or Hiillengraben, a vast semicircular basin, the bleak, yellowish
.slopes of which are visible on the right. During heavy rains the water
rushes from the steep and barren sides into this cavity, carrying masses
of rock and stone down to the Rhone.
The line traverses meadows on the left bank of the Rhone,
passing the chateau of Baron Werra , and is carried by a stone
embankment along the artificial channel of the river. We cross
the 2Wtm«rm6f(c/t to (34 M.) Turtmann (2080'), Fr. Tourtemagne;
the village { Paste or Lion; Soleil, both plain), lies 1/2 M. to the
right, at the mouth of the Turtmann Valley [t^. 318). The Turtmann
forms a fine waterfall, 85' high, 8 min. from the Post Inn.
351/2 M. Gampel. The village, with deserted smelting-works,
lies on the right bank, 1 M. distant, at the narrow mouth of the
Lotschenthal (p. 182), through which peeps the snowy Petcrsgrat.
296 Route 80. BRIEG. From Martigny
Near Niedergesteln are the scanty ruins of the Gestelnhurg. 39 M.
Raron, Fr. Rarogne ; on the opposite bank, at the mouth of the
Bietschthal , lies the village, with its old churfh on a rocky hill.
On a wooded height on the left bank , to the right of the line,
above the hamlet of Turtig, is the little pilgrimage-church of
Wandfluh , reached by a winding path flanked with oratories.
We now quit the Rhone, and cross the turbid Visp, which has co-
vered the Rhone Valley here with its debris.
421/2 M. Visp, orVispach, Fr. Vihge (2155' ; pop. 854 ; *Hdt. des
Alpes, at the station, R. 21/2) D. Si.^fr-; *Post, *Sonne, in the
village, R., L., & A. 3'/2, B. il'2, D. 4 fr. ; Rail. Restaurant, with
beds), a picturesque village at the mouth of the Visp Valley
(p. 319), has several old mansion-houses and handsome churches.
The beautiful snow-mountain at the head of the Visp Valley is the
Balfrin (12,475'; p. 333), the first peak of the Saasgrat , which
separates the valleys of Saas and Nicolai.
From Visp to Zermatl, and across the Thiodule Pass to Aosla. see
RR. 84. 85; to Saas. and over the ilovo Pass to Vogogna, see R. 86. Tra-
vellers starting from Lausanne by the first train may reach Zcrmatt on
the same day (bridle-path to St. l^iklaus. thence carriage-road).
Above Visp we again approach the Rhone, and skirt it by
means of a stone embankment, traversing several stony tracts, es-
pecially at the influx of the Gamsen, which descends from the Nan-
zer Thai. The right bank is steep and wooded. To the right of the line
is the pilgrim-resort of GUs, with a large church, at the base of the
GUshorn (8290') ; to the E. rises the fine pyramid of the Bortelhorn
(10,510'). We then cross the artificial channel of the Saltine to —
471/2 M. Brieg, or Brig, Fr. Brigue (2244' ; pop. 1187 ; *Hdt. des
Couronnes if Poste, R., L., & A. 4, D. 41/2 fr. ; *Augleterre, R., L.,
& A. 2'/2, lunch 3, D. 4 fr. ; Pens. Midler, moderate; *Rail. Rest-
aurant^, a smalltown, where the railway terminates. The turreted
Stockalper Chateau contains an interesting interior court, a large
hall etc. The terrace in front of the former Jesuits' monastery
commands a fine view. The fine snow -mountain to the S.Ji. is
the Wasenhorn; to the N. the Great Aletsch Glacier is visible.
To Belalp, a beautiful excursion (bridle-path, 4V2-5hrs.; porter 5,
horse 15 fr.). From Brieg we cross the Rhone to (1 M.) Naters (p. 306),
and ascend to the left by a poor and stony and almost shadeless path, steep
at places (new bridle-path being made), via Geimen (3440'), to (2 hrs.) the
village of Platlen (4330'; rustic *Inn); then through wood and over the
Rischenen unA Eg gen Alps to the (2 hrs.) 'Hotel Belalp (7153' ; R., L., & A.
4, B. IV2, pens. 9-11 fr.). suitable for a stay of some duration (English
Church), situated on the Lilsgen-Alp at the base of the Sparrhorn, and high
above the Aletsch Glacier. (Splendid view of the Valaisian Alps. Sunrise
particularly fine.) The little Villa LUsgen, 5 min. above the hotel, belongs
to Prof. Tyndall.
Excursions from the Belalp hotel. Pleasant walk on the hillside,
past the hamlet oi Belalp (6735'), to that of (IV2-2 hrs.) Nessel (6675'; milk,
etc.), high above the Rhone Valley, with lieautiful view. — To the 'TTpper
Aletsch Glacier, very attractive. Bridle-path from the hotel to the
(l'/2 hr.) W. moraine; then across this and a second moraine to the almost
uncrevassed glacier, with its numerous 'ice-tables', 'glacier-mills', etc. We
may walk up the glacier to the right to the foot of the Great Aletschhora
to No vara. BEL ALP. 80. Route. 297
(p. 304) , or traverse the Beichfirn to the left to the snow-slopes of the
Beiehyral (see below; 8-10 hrs. in all; guide and provisions necessary). —
To the "Great Aletsch Glacier and its splendid natural ice cavern, also
very interesting &'■> hrs. there and back). At the farther end of the cave
is a large waterfall.
The *Sparrhorn (BelalpJiorn, 9890'), 2'/2-3 hrs. from the inn, bridle-path
most of the way (guide 4 fr., unnecessary for the experienced). Beautiful view,
finer on the S. side than from the Eggishorn, but inferior to it on the K.
side. (Panorama at the inn.) To the N., above the Aletsch Glacier, and
to the left of the Fusshorner, the Grosse Aletschhorn (ascent, p. 304) is
most prominent; adjoining it are the Sattelhorn, Ebnefluh, Distelhorn,
Breithorn, and the Tschingelhorner. and to the left, adjacent to the Hoch-
stock, is the Ifesthorn. Towards the S. rises the broad mass of the Blonte
Leone; more to the right are the Fletschhorn, 3Ionte Eosa, Mischabel,
Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Brunnegghorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Combin, and
Mont Blanc. To the left of Monte Leone are the Bortelhoi'n, Hiillehorn,
Helsenhorn, Punta d'Arbola, Giischihorn, Ofenhorn, the peaks of the St.
Gotthard group, and lastly the Valaisian Fiescherhorner.
From the Belalp to the Eggishorn Hotel (S'/a hrs.), see p. 305. Guide
8 fr. ; necessary only for the passage of the Great Aletsch Glacier (4 fr.).
From Belalp to Ried over the Beichgrat, toilsome, but very inter-
esting (9-10 hrs.; guide 20 fr.). We ascend the Upper Aletsch Glacier and the
Beichfirn to the Beich Pass (10,237'), between the Schienhorn and the Lot-
schenthaler Breithorn (see below) ; then descend rapidly over the Disiel
Glacier to the beautiful Gletscherstaffel Alp and Ried (p. 182). The Breit-
horn (12,450'), a splendid point of view, is ascended from the Beichgrat in
3 hrs. without difficulty. Still grander is the panorama from the -Nest-
horn (12,535'), "7-8 hrs. from Belalp, by the Upper Aletsch Glacier; trying,
and only for adepts (guide 40 fr.). — The Schienhorn (12,646'), 41/2" hrs.
trom the Beichpa«s, is very difficult. — Gr. Aletschhorn, see p. 304.
The Upper Valuis, and the Grimsel, Furka, and Gries passes,
see RH. 81, 52, 33, 82.
The SiMPLON Road, the first great Alpine route after the Bren-
ner, constructed by order of Napoleon I. in 1800-6, quits the Rhone
Valley here. From Brieg to Dome d'Ossola (41 M.) the diligence
takes 91/2 hrs. (079 to Simplon, where it halts '/o hr., and 3'/2 to
Domo d'Ossola), returning in 10 hrs. (from Domo d'Ossola to Simplon
51/2, thence to Brieg 4 hrs.). A good walker may easily outstrip
the diligence in ascending from either side, especially if he takes
the short-cuts. The scenery is far finer than on the Spliigen route,
but the engineering of the road is less striking.
The ascent begins at the post-office (2320') at Brieg. (About
100 yds. beyond the bridge a short-cut diverges to the right
and crosses the road, which it finally rejoins near the second
refuge. Other short-cuts farther on.) The road is soon joined
('/2 M-) ^y the old road from Glis (p. 296), on which lies the lofty
Pont Napoleon (2485') over the Saltine. Opposite rises the Glis-
horn (8290'). The road winds over green pastures to the E., in the
direction of the Klenenhorn (8840'). Fine retrospective view of
the Rhone Valley ; high above the right bank of the Rhone is the
Hotel Belalp, commanded by the Sparrhorn, with the Nesthorn on
the left ; to the right, farther up, the cone of the Eggishorn ; above
us, to the S.,is the Kaltwasser Glacier, which the road afterwards
passes, and the Schouhorn. Beyond the hamlet of Sc/iiuc/ii, by the
298 Route 80. BERISAL. From Martiyny
(23/4 M.) First Refuge (3200'), the road turns back and ascends the
wooded slope in many windings, affording splendid views of the
Rhone Valley and the mountains of the Aletsch region. Beyond the
Bleiche Kapelle (4110') it again approaches the deep ravine of the
Saltine. By the {1^/i M.) Second, or Schallberg-Refuge (4330'; au-
berge) , two brooks from the Staldhorn , one on each side , unite
far below with the Saltine, the valley of which (Ganterthal) now
turns to the E. Fine view of the picturesquely grouped valleys, and
of the Wasenhorn, Furggenbaumhorn, and Bortelhorn. The road,
now nearly level, traverses the Ganterthal to the (2 M.) Oanter
Bridge (4820'), which is much exposed to avalanches in winter,
and ascends in a wide curve (short-cut to the left) to (1 M.) —
9 M. Berisal, the Third Refuge (5006'; *H6t. de la Poste, R.,
L., & A. 3'/2, ^- I'/sj pens. 7-8 fr., finely situated, and suitable
for some stay; Engl. Ch. Service in summer).
ExcDKSioNS. The Wasenhorn (Punta di Tevrarossa, 10,680'; 5 hrs. ;
guide 8 fr.), interesting, and ncit difficult. — BettUhorn (9718'; 4'/2 hrs.; with
guide) not difficult (cump. p. 305). — Bortelhorn (Punta del Rebbio. lO^tOlC),
ascended by the Bortel Alp in 5'/2hrs., trying (guide lOfr.).
Fkom Beeisai, to Iskli.e via Vegi,ia. 8-9 hrs., with guide, a splendid
route, but fatiguing. We either ascend via, the Bortel-Alp and the Glacier
on the X. side of the Furgyenhaumhorn (Punta d'Aurona, 9820') to the
Passo d'Auro7ia (about 9120'), and descend over rocks and loose stones to
the Alp Veglia (p. 305); or we may proceed via the Laup Alp (6265') and
the Furggenbaum Pass (Passo di Forchetia. 8825'), between the Furggen-
baumhorn and the Wasenhorn. From Veglia we descend to Trasquera
and (3 hrs.) Iselle, see p. 300. — From the Alp Veglia over the Passo di
Valtendro (7995') and the Passo Buscagna to Ai Ponti in the Val Devera
(p. 305), 6-7 hrs., with guide, a fine route, not difficult.
The road crosses the Fronbach (5220') and the Durstbach , and
reaches the (21/4 M.) Fourth Refuge (pQib'). To the right the top of
the pass is visible ; above it rise the Rauthorn with the Raut Glacier
and the finely shaped Fletschhorn with the Rossboden Glacier;
beautiful retrospective view of the Aletschhorn , Schienhorn, etc.
Beyond the (IV4 ^■) Schallbett Oallery, or Kapfloch, hewn in the
rock for 33 yds., is the (8/4 M.) Fifth, or Schallbett Refuge (6345').
Between this point and the top of the pass is the most dangerous
part of the road during the period of avalanches and storms. Over
the (3/4 M.) Wasser Gallery (6460') is precipitated the stream which
issues from the Kaltwasser Glacier, forming a waterfall visible through
a side-opening. Two other galleries. Then the (1 M.) Sixth Refuge
(6540'), with a splendid (final) view of the Bernese Alps and of
Brieg in the Rhone Valley far below.
A little farther on (5 min.) we reach the highest point of the
Simplon (6590'; 6'/4 M. from Berisal), 3/4 M. beyond which is the
Hospice (6570'), at the base of the Schunhorn (10,505'), a large
building with a lofty flight of steps, founded by Napoleon for the
reception of travellers, and subject to the same rules as that of the
Great St. Bernard (p. 288). It remained unfinished from want of
means till 1825, when the St. Bernard Hospice purchased the build-
ings. The diligence halts for a few minutes only.
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to Novara. SLMPLON. 80. Route. 299
ExcoRsiONS. The Schonhorn (10,505'; 3'/;! brs.; with guidej, laborious,
but interesting. — Monte Leone (11,695'; 5-6 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), up the
Kaltwasser Glacier, difficult and unfit for novices (easier from Gondo by
Alpien, see p. 300). — From the hospice to Stalden by the Bistenen Pass
(mule-track), see p. 319 ; to Saas by the Sirvollen and Simeli Passes, see below,
A broad open valley resembling a dried-up lake, bounded by
snow-capped peaks, forms the highest part of the Pass. The hardy
rhododendron alone thrives here. The^^/^ M.) OLd Hospice(b700' ), a
high square building with a tower, on the right, below the new road,
is now occupied by herdsmen. Beyond the (2 M.) Seventh Refuge
in the Engeloch we cross the (^4 M.) Krummbach and the (1^2 M.)
Am Senk Bridge (4855'); to the right is the Rossboden Glacier with
its huge moraine (see below). Then (1/2 M.) —
21 M. Simplon (4855'), Ital. Sempione, Germ. Simpeln {*Poste,
II., L., & A. 31/2, D. 31/2 fr. ; *Hdt. Fletschhorn, at the lower end of
the village, R., L., & A. 21/9, D- 4 fr.), among pastures at the N.E.
base of the Fletschhorn (see below).
Fbom Simplon to Saas several routes. The shortest and finest is
across the -Rossbodenjoch (8-9 hrs. ; fatiguing, but without serious dif-
ficulty for adepts; guide 20 fr., Jos. Dovsaz of Simplon). On the left side
of the Rossboden Glacier, which has lately receded , we ascend steep mo-
raine and rock, cross the upper part of the glacier, and mount steep rocks
to the pass (about 11,485'), lying to the K. of the Rossbodeuhorn, with
a superb view. Descent across the Mattwald Glacier to the Hofersalp
(see below) and Saas im Griind (p. 332). — Another grand, but much
more difficult pass, not without danger, is theLaquinjoch (11,514'), between
the Laquinhorn and the Weissmies (10 hrs.; guide 30 fr.).
To Saas over the Siuvolten and Simeli Passes (or the Gamsek-
JOCH), 10-11 hrs., fairly interesting (guide 20 fr.). By the Seventh Refuge
(see above) we descend to the left , cross the Krummbach to the Nieder-
alp, and ascend by a narrow path towards a waterfall visible from below.
On the left side of it we mount a 'couloir', steep at first (leaving the ISir-
volten Lake to the left), to the (4 hrs.) Sirvolten Pass (about 8530'), to
the X. of the Sirvoltenhorn (view limited). Descent over rock and debris
(keeping well to the left) to the head of the Nanzer Thai., into which the
Gamser Glacier descends. We ascend the glacier gradually to the S.W.
towards an arete coming down from the JIattwaldhorn on the E., at the
foot of which the route divides: to the right to the Simeli Pass (about
10,040'); to the left to the Gamser Joch (each 2-2'/2 hrs. from the Sirvolten
Pass). These passes, between which rises the pointed Magenhorn (10,333'),
command beautiful views of the majestic Jlischabel group; immediately
to the left is the Fletschhorn with the Mattwald Glacier; to the E. are
the Monte Leone and the St. Gotthard group ; and to the N. are the
Kernese Alps from the Furka to the Diablerets. A still grander point is
the ~ Mattwaldhorn (10,7290, easily ascended from the Simeli Pass in 1 hour.
Toilsome descent from the Gamser Joch over the moraine of the Mattwald
Glacier. Rounding the lower part of the vallev to the left, we next come
to the Sattel (9236'), on the E. side of the lioUihorn (9133'), and to the
Hofersalp (7258'). 'The path now improves and leads by Bodmen to (3V'2 hrs.)
Saas im Grund (p. 331). Descent by the Alp Sevenen to Balen (p. 333)
much longer and not advisable.
The t\et5c\ihoTn (Rossbodenhorn ; 12,853'), 8-9 hrs. from Simplon (guide
25 fr.), fatiguing, but safe for proficients. A night is spent in the Hvhsaas-
/liitte (about 8000'), 3 hrs. from Simplon, above the Laquinthal (p. 300).
Thence up the S.E. arete to the top in 5-6 hrs.
Walkers may here take a rough short-cut, rejoining the road
near the Algaby Gallery. Beyond the (1/4 M.) LiJwenbachy the road
300 Route SO. GONDO. From Martiymj
forms a wide bend and enters the Laquinthal, and at tlic ( l'Y4 M.)
hamlet of Gsteig or Algaby (4042'; Auberge du Cabi) it crosses tlie
Krummbach, into which the Laquinbach falls. Below this the brook
is named the Dlveria. Beyond the (I/4 M.) Gallery of AUjuhy begins
the *Ravine of Gondo, watered by the brawling Diveria, one of the
wildest and grandest gorges in the Alps, which becomes narrower and
deeper at every step, till its smooth walls of mica-slate quite over-
hang the road. The road passes the (l'/4 M.) Eighth Refuge, and
crosses the Diveria by (i/2M.)the Ponte Alto (3747'), and by another
bridge near the (V2M.) Ninth Refuge (3514'). A huge mass of rock,
which seems to terminate the road here, is pierced by the Gallery of
Gondo, a tunnel 245 yds. long, with the inscription, ^Aereltalo IW,')
Nap. Imp.^
At the farther end of the gallery the Fressinone, or Alpienbach,
forms a waterfall, which is crossed by a slender bridge. On both
sides the rocks tower to a dizzy height (about 2000'). The sombre
entrance to the tunnel contrasts strikingly witli the white spray of
the cascade, while the beautiful Bodmer Glacier is visible beyond
the ravine. Traces of the old road are still visible opposite the
waterfall. Farther on are several smaller falls. The poor hamlet of
(21/2 M.) Gondo (2818'), Ger. Gunz or Ruden, is the last Swiss
village (custom-house). The tall square tower here (now an inu,
uninviting) was erected by the Stockalper family as a refuge for
travellers, long before the new road was made. There is a more at-
tractive looking 'Osteria' a few paces farther on.
To the S. opens the narrow Val Varia, or Zichchhevijtn-Thal, from
which we may without difficulty cross the Zwischlbergen Pass (iO.TSfy),
l)etween the Weissmies (p. 332) and the Portjengrat (Pizzo d'Andolla, 12,(K)8'),
t.) Saas im Grund (p. 332-, 12 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.). — The ascent of Monte
Leone (11.695') from Gondo via Alpien is less trying than from the Sini-
plon fp. 299). A night is spent in the highest chalets of the Fraxinado
Alp, 4 hrs. from Gondo ; thence by the Alpien Glacier to the top, 4-5 hrs.
A column of granite on the left, 1/2 M. from Gondo, marks the
boundary of Italy (2610'). The first Italian village is (1/4 M.) S.
Marco. Below this the valley is called Val di Vedro. We next pass
through a new tunnel, and reach (I3/4 M.) —
30 M. Iselle (2155'; Posta, 11., L., & A. 31/2, B. I1/2 fr-)) '■"^^^'^^
luggage is examined. Below (I1/2 M.) Trasquera, which lies on the
hill to the left, the road takes a wide bend to the left and crosses the
Cairasca. (To the Rhone Valley by the Alp Veglia, see pp. 298, 30(3.)
Near (1 M.) Varzo, a large village on the left, above the road, the
vegetation becomes more luxuriant (chestnuts, figs, mulberries, maize,
vineyards). Passing through a picturesque ravine , we next reach
(31/2 M.) the Gallery of Crevola (1286') and (21/2 M.) the village of
Crevola (1100'; Osteria della Stella), where for the last time we
cross the Diveria by a bridge 100' high , near its confluence with
the Tosa, which here emerges from the Val Antigorio (p. 308).
The fertile valley, now called Valle d'Ossola, Ger. Eschenthal, though
to Novara. DOMO D'OSSOLA. SO. Route. 301
frequently ravaged by inundations, is strikingly picturesque and
thoroughly Italian in character. We next reach (21/4 M.) • —
41 M. Domo d'Ossola (905' ; Hot. de la Ville et Paste, R., L.,
& A. 41/2, D- 5 fr. ; Hot. cFEspagne, well spoken of; Alb. Nazionale,
also well spoken of; Pesce, plain), a small town with 3300 inhab.,
charmingly situated on the Tosa, which becomes navigable here. The
*Mount Calvary, 1/9 tr. to the S., commands a superb view.
To Locarno through the Val Vigezzo, see p. 423. Diligence to (IOV2 M. ;
fare 3 fr.) <S'. Maria Maggiore, daily, at 5 p. m. — On the W. opens the
Valle di Bognanco, with mineral springs, from which several passes lead
to the Zwisc.hbergen and Antrona Valleys (see p. 300 and below).
The Railway runs straight along the foot of the cliffs, bounding
the broad Valle d'Ossola on the W.'— At (41/2 M.) Villa d'Ossola
the Val Antrona opens on the right.
Over the Astkona Pass to Saas, 12-13 hrs. (guide unnecessary). The
carriage-road follows the left, and afterwards the right bank of the Ovesca,
by Viganella and <S. Pietro, to (2V2 hrs.) Antronapiana (2955'; bed at the
prefecfs). Passing the charming little Antrona Lake (355U' ; formed by a
landslip from the Pizzo Pozzolo in 1632), it ascends the valley of the
Troncone to the (3',2 hrs.) Cingino Alps (6660') and along the slopes of the
Pizzo di Cingino (10,570'), far above the little Lago di Cingino (71S0'), to
the (2V2 hrs.) Saas or Antrona Pass (9830'), between the Jazzihorn (Pizzo
di Cingino, 10,570') on the left and the Latelhorn (10,526'; easily ascended
from the pass in I'/a hr. ; see p. 332). Descent on the right side of the
Furggen Glacier to the Fiirggalpthal, Almagell, and (4 hrs.) Saas (p. 332).
— To Mattm.vek from the Val Antrona a direct, but rough route crosses
the Antigine or Ofenthal Pass (93'0O'). From the ascent to the Cingino Alp
(see above) we diverge to the left, and proceed to the Loinhraoro Alp,
whence a steep ascent via the Laugera di Sopra Alp to the pass, between
the Pizzo di Cingino and the Pizzo d^Anligine (10,465': a fine point, IV4 hr.
from the pass); we then descend through the wild Ofenthal to the Matt-
mark Alp (3-9 hrs. from Antronapiana; p. 331).
By (51/2 M.) Pallanzeno (760') the railway skirts the Tosa for a
short distance, and then traverses a broad grassy expanse. At
(7 M.) Piedimulera (*Corona) the Val d'Anzasca opens on the right
(to Macugnaga , see p. 328). The railway crosses the Anza to
(8Y2 M.) Rumianca and the Tosa to —
9 M. Vogogna (740'; *Corona'), a small town at the foot of steep
rocks, with a ruined castle. The rapid Tosa is navigable here,
though not without difficulty. 11 M. Premosello. Beyond (ISl/o M.)
Cuzzago we cross the Tosa by a bridge, 515' yds. in length, and
reach —
16 M. Ornavasso (Italia; Croce Bianca). The marble quarries
on the hill to the left belong to the cathedral-chapter of Milan. At
(20 M.) Gravellona-Toce (Rail. Restaur.), a place with large cotton-
mills, the Strona falls into the Tosa. The roads to Pallanza and
Stresa diverge here to the right.
The Road to Stresa (71/2 M. ; omnibus, see p. 293) passes large granite
quarries, in which beautiful crystals of felspar are found, and reaches the
Lago Maggiore at (2 M.) Feriolo (p. 434); in the distance are seen Pallanza
and the Isola Madre (p. 431) and, farther oil', the fine outline of the Sasso
del Ferro. Beyond (3 M.) Jiaveno (p. 434) tlie road continues to skirt the
lake, in view of the Rorromean Jslaiid.i, and next reaches f2V2 M.) Stresa
(p. 435).
302 Route fll. BHONE GLACIER.
The RoAU TO Pallanza (omnibus, see p. 293) crosses the Tosa by a
bridge of five arches and leads past the base oi the Montor/a7io, on which
are large granite quarries, near the small Lago di Mergozzo, to Fondo Toce,
at the influx of the Tosa into the Lago Maggiore (p. 43i). To the S. in
the distance are the Borromean Islands (p. 434); on the right rises the
Monte Motterone with its hotel (p. 43()). We now follow the bank of the
lake, passing Cavandone on the hill to the left, with its pilgrimage-church,
viA Suna to (6 M.) Pallanza tp. 433).
The Rail-\vay to Orta and Novara runs to the S. through the
fertile valley of the Strona. Beyond (211/2 M-) Crusinallo it crosses
the river and immediately afterwards the Nigulia Canal, which
drains the Lake of Orta. At the picturesquely situated station of
(2372 M.) Omeyna the line reaches the lake, which it then skirts,
keeping above the high-road and commanding heautiful views.
Beyond (271/2 M.) Pctfenaseo, the train crosses the Pescone , and
then the imposing Sassina Viaduct to the (29 M.) station of Orla-
Miasino, 1 M. to the E. of Orta (p. 437).
Beautiful views of the lake as we proceed. In the centre lies
the island of -S. Giulio (p. 437), and on the steep cliffs of the W.
hank is the church of Madonna del Sasso (p. 438). Beyond (30 M.)
Corconio, the train traverses a cutting on the W. side of the Casiello
di Buccione (p. 438) and quits the Lake of Orta. 32 M. Bolzano.
331/2 M. Gozzano , a place of considerable size, is the junction for
Alzo (p. 438). We now traverse the fertile Val d'Agogna. 37 AI.
Borgomanero (Alb. del Ramo Secco), 71/2 M. to the S.W. of Aroiia
(p. 435). — 41 M. Cressa-Fontaneto ; 43 M. Suno; 46I/2 M. Momo ;
51 M. Caltignaga; 54 M. Vignale; 56 M. Novara. From Novara
to Milan (p. 451), railway in ll/4hr. ; to Laveno (p. 432) in I'/.jhr.
Conip. Baedeker's Northern Italy.
81. From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. The Eggishorn.
Comp. Maps, pp. 108., 298 and 304.
31 M. Diligence to Brieg twice daily (7.20 a.m. and 2.25 p.m.) in 43/i l"'s.
(12 fr. 55, coupe 15 fr. 5 c; to Fiesch in 2^/4 hrs. ; 7 fr. 5, coupe 8 fr. G5 c).
In the reverse direction the journey takes 71/4 hrs. — One-horse carr. from
the Rhone Glacier to Fiesch 20, two-horse 30 fr. ; to Brieg 30 or 50 fr. ;
from Brieg to Fiesch 12 or 25, to Ulrichen 20 or 40, the Rhone Glacier 30
or CO, Andermatt 60 or 100, Fliielen 90 or 150 fr. (Return-carriages from
Ilospenthal and Andermatt are often to be had for less at Fiesch and
Munster). Bevond I'lrichen the diligence is preferable to walking.
From the' Rhone Glacier over the Furka to Andermatt, see R. 33;
over the Grinuel to the Haslithal and to Meiringen, see R. 52.
The * Rhone Glacier, imbedded between the Gerstenhorner
(10,450') and Gelmerhorner (10,500') on the W., and the Galen-
stock (^llfiOb'), Rhonestock (11,823'), and Dammastock (11,920').
on the E., ascends in terraces for about 6 M., resemblin,2; a gigan-
tic frozen waterfall. At its base, '/m Gletsch' (5750'), is the Hot.
du Glacier du Rhone (R., L., & A. 41/2, D. 5 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Service
in summer). A beautiful blue Ice Grotto, hewn in the glacier,
25 min. from the hotel, is worth seeing (i/o fr.).
From the Rhone Glacier, which has decreased inudi of late years
ULRICHEN. 81. Route. 303
(its movement being marked by rows of stones of different colours),
issues the Rhone, the Ehodanus of the ancients, descending 'from
the gates of eternal night, at the foot of the pillar of the sun'. The
natives, however, give the name of Rotten, or Rhodan, to three par-
tially warm springs rising at the back of the hotel , which they
regard as the source of the river.
A short distance from the hotel the road crosses the infant
Rhone, which dashes through its rocky ravine far below , and de-
scends in long windings to (33/4 M.) Oberwald (4456'; Hotel Furca,
plain), at the bottom of the valley of the Upper Valais, a broad
expanse of pasture, studded with houses and hamlets, enclosed by
monotonous chains of mountains, and watered by the Rhone, which
is seldom visible. In front rises the majestic Weisshorn, and
behind us the Galenstock. The valley consists of three regions, the
highest extending a little beyond Fiesch, the second to the bridge of
Grengiols, and the third lying below this bridge. The inhabitants
(Rom. Cath.) speak German; French begins near Sion (p. 294).
From the wild Gerenthal, a ravine opening to the E. of Oberwald,
a fatiguing pass crosses the Kii/iboden Glacier and the Geren Pass (90.020,
S. of the KUhbodenhorn (i0,080'j) to the Alj)e Nuova and AW Acqua in the Val
Kedretto (see below; 8hrs., guide 18 fr.). — The Pizzo Rotondo (10.490'},
the highest peak of the St. Gotthard, is ascended from the Kiihhoden (head
of the Gerenthal, 6G35') over the Geren Glacier in 5 hrs. (diflicult ; for
experts only, with good guides).
At ('21/4M.) Obergestelen (4452') the direct route to the Grimsel
diverges to the right (p. 175). Opposite (1^/4 M.) TJlrichen, or Vr-
lichen (4380'; *H6t. zum Griesgletscher, plain) is the mouth of the
Egmen-Thal. (Over the Gries Pass to the Tosa Falls, see p. 307.)
To AiROLO OVER THE XuFENEN Pass (S'/^ hrs.) , a rough, uninteresting
bridle-path, guide necessarv (12, horse 25 fr.). Beginning of route, see
p. 307. At (2V4 hrs.) Altstaffel (p. 307) tjie path leads to the left, ascends in
zigzags, and crosses the (l'/4 lii'-) Nufenen Pass (Passo di JVoveiia, 8005'),
between the Pizzo Gallina (10,066') on the left and the Nnfenenslock (940(1')
on the right, to the Val Bedretto. Immediately to the N. of the pass
rises the Ticino, which the path follows, first on the right, and below the
Alp Cruina on the left bank, to the (IV4 hr.) Hospice all' Acqua (5265'; poor
inn: route over the S. Giacomo Pass to the Tosa Falls, see p. 307). The
lofty Val Bedretto is bleak and barren. Winter lasts nearly eight months,
and even in summer it sometimes freezes at night. The wooded slopes
are overtopped by bare pinnacles of rock. Avalanches are common in spring
and winter, and we frequently cross their track. The hamlet of (I hr.)
Bedretto (4610'; Inn, rustic) was partly destroyed by an avalanche in 1863,
when 28 of the inhabitants perished. Then (20 niin.) Villa (very poor inn ;
route over the Cavanna Pass to Realp, see p. 115). Near (20 min.) Ossasro
(4367'; Albergo delle Alpi, rustic, but dear) the road crosses the Ticino.
Beyond (25 min.) Fontana is the picturesque Val Ruvi7io to the right, with
waterfalls. Then (1 hr.) Airolo (p. 105).
The following villages are Geschenen (4396') and (2^/4 M.) —
10 M. Miinster (4528' ; Goldnes Kreuz; one-horse carr. to Brieg
18 fr. and fee). Fine view from the chapel-hill.
The Lbffelhom (10,138'; 5 hrs., fatiguing; guide 6 fr.) is ascended from
Miinster, partly over snow and granite-rocks. View like that from the
Kggishorn (p.3()l), with the addition of the Finsteraailiorn in the foreground.
The next villages. Rerkinyen (with tlie finest church in the val-
304 Route 81. EGGISHORN. Upper
ley, at the mouth of the Blinnenthal), Gluringen, RUzimjen, Biel,
Seikingen, and BUtzingen, are almost contiguous. At (5M.) Nieder-
wald (4052' ; Zum Quten Freund), an excellent spring under a roof
by the road-side. The Rhone now forces its passage to a lower
region of the valley. The road leads on the right bank to [41/2 M.) —
191/2 M. Fiesch (3458'; *Hut. du Qlacier et Paste, R., L., &
A. 5 , D. 4, pens. 6 fr. ; *Hdt. des Alpes, lower down, well sit-
uated, R., L., & A. 23/4, I). 31/2, pens. 5 fr.), prettily situated at
the influx of the brawling Fieschbach into the Rhone.
Excursions. The Fiesch Glacier is interesting on account of it.s
heantiful ice-formations and colouring. Steep patli to the (2V2 hrs.) Slock-
alp., whence the glacier is safely accessible. From the Stockalp to the
Miirjelen-Alp (^7756') 11/4 hr. ; thence past the Mdrjelen-See and by the Thalli-
grat (see below) to the Eggishorn Hotel i'/2 hr.
*AscENT OF THE Eggishorn, very interesting (5 hrs.; guide
unnecessary; to the inn 3 hrs. ; porter 6, horse 10 fr.). Above the
Hot. des Alpes the bridle-path ascends to the right , somewhat
steeply, chiefly through wood, past (I'/a lir-) ^'i auberge and seve-
ral pyramids of earth lying a little to the left, to (40 min.) the
Fiescher Alp (6210'); then over pastures (where we may take the
direct path following the telegraph-posts, i/o hr. shorter, but steep)
to the (50 min.) *H6t.-Pens. Jungfrau (7195'; R. & A. 3 , lunch
21/2-3, D. 4-5, pens. 7-9 fr.), a favourite resort of English tourists,
and suitable for some stay (rooms should be secured in advance).
The little English Church, 200 yds. from the inn, was opened
in 1884. From the inn to the top 2 hrs. more (guide 4 fr. , but not
needed; horse 7 fr.). The bridle-path ascends in zigzags, then
turns to the right, and after 3/^ hr. to the left. (The path to the
right leads to the ThalUgrat above the Miirjelen-See and to the
Mdrjelen-Alp ; see above.) After 3/^ hr. more the bridle-path ends,
and we ascend by a good footpath and lastly mount steps of rock
to the (i/ohr.) summit of the *Eggishorn (9626'), the highest peak
of the ridge which separates the Great Aletsch Glacier from the
Rhone Valley, with a superb view of the Bernese and the Valai-
sian Alps.
'*ViEW (compare the annexed Panorama by Iinfeld). Immediately below
us lies the dark-green Miirjeleii-See (7710'), in which blocks of ice often tloat;
then the huge Aletsch Glacier (13 JI. long), the largest among the Alps, to
the left the Wittel-Aletsch Glacier, and to the right the Fiesch Glacier.
Of the countless peaks the most prominent are : to the right, the Galenstock,
Oberaarhorn, Finsteraarhorn, and Gross-Wannehorn ; in front, the Eiger,
Monch, and Jungfrau ; to the left, the Dreieckhorn, Great Aletschhorn,
Sattelhorn, Nesthorn ; to the S. the Weisshorn, Matterhorn, Jlischabel-
hiirner, Monte Rosa, Fletschhiirner, Weissmies, Mte. Leone, Bortelhorn,
and Helsenhorn. We also overlook a great part of the Simplon Route
and of the Nicolai-Thal (p. 320).
Ascent of the Jungfrau (guides at the hotel), see p. 169; Finster-
aarhorn, p. 174. To the Concordia Hut (9417'; 5 hrs.; guide 10-12 fr.), and
on to the (2 hrs.) Jungfraujoch (p. 1G3; 2 guides, 20 fr. each), an inte-
resting glacier-walk. — The Grosse Aletschhorn (13,773'; guide 40 fr.),
the second-highest of the Bernese peaks, is ascended cither from the Con-
cordia Hut nr from Belalp (p. 29G) ; difficult, but without danger for ex-
perts. View exceedingly grand.
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Valais. BINNENTHAL. 81. Route. 305
From the Eggishorn to Grindelwald over the Monchjoch, Jungfraujoch,
etc., seep. 163; to the Grimsel Hospice over the Oberaarjoch or Studerjoc/i,
see p. 175. From the Concordia Hut to the Griinsel Hospice, via the
GviinhornUicke (p. 174), Gainslilcke (p. 174), and Oberaarjoch (p. 17o), is a
lino glacier-tour of 10-12 hrs., not difficult for adepts with good guides.
— From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggishorn by the Lauinenthor, Rothlhal-
Sattel, and Ebnefluh-Joch, see p. 157.
From the Eggishokn over the LotschenlOcke to Ried 12-13 hrs., a
grand glacier-route (guide 30 fr.). We ascend the Great Aletsch Glacier and
the Great AUtschfirn to the Lbtschenliicke (10,513'), a depression of the Anen-
grat, to the N. of the Sattelhorn (12,295'), and descend the crevassed Lotschen
Glacier to the Gletscherstaffel Alp and Bied in the Lotschenthal (p. 182).
From the Eggishorx to the Riederalp and Belalp (guide 8, horse
20 fr. ; but riding not possible on the glacier), 5 hrs., a beautiful vpalk.
The bridle-path from the hotel, past the little English church, running
nearly at the same level, high above the Rhone, leads over the Bettmer-
Alp, with its little lake (6532' ; abounding in fish), and the Goppisbergalp
to the (2V4 hrs.) Riederalp (6315'; ' B6t.-Pens. Riederalp, same proprietor
as the Eggishorn Hotel, E. & L. 2' '2, D. 5, pens. 8 fr.). The beautiful situation
and mild climate of this alp adapt it for a stay of some time. Here we
ascend to the right to the (25 min.) Rieder Fnrka (6820'; Inn), whence
we may scale the Riederhorn (7313'; '/a hr.), a very fine point of view.
Descent, with splendid views of the Upper Aletsch or Jdgi Glacier, lying
between the Sparrhorn and the Fus'shiirner and overshadowed by the
Scliienhoin, to the (1/2 hr.) Great Aletsch Glacier (5485'), which is safely
crossed here in 1/2 hr. (with guide) to Aletschbord (visit of the ice cavern,
p. 297) ; then a steep ascent, past the chalets of i'nter- Aletsch, to (IV4 hr.)
the Hotel Belalp (p. 296). — From the Rieherai.p to Morel (1i/2 hr.), a
bridle-path, at first through pastures, then through wood, making a long
sweep to the right (steep paths descending to the left to be avoided), with
splendid views of the Rhone Valley, the Simplun Bits., etc. We first
reach Ried CiSOO'l, a finely situated village ; then, by a roughly paved path,
Morel (p. 306); to the Riederalp, 23/4 hrs.
From Fiesch over the j^xbrun Pass to Baceno or to the Tosa Falls,
12-13 hrs. (guide from Im Feld desirable ; to Baceno 12 fr.). A good bridle-path
leads by Aernen and the Binnegg, with fine view of the Binnenthal and Valais,
to (I3/4 hr.) Ausserbinn and (I1/2 hr.) Schmidhduser or Birin (4718' ; "Hot.
Ofenhorn, flnily situated), a village, with an interesting church, in the
Binnenthal, a valley interesting to mineralogists. (Guides, Jos. Welschen
and J. J. Gorsat, of Binn ; Ad. and Elias Walpen of Im Feld). The "Bettli-
horn (9718'; 5 hrs.; guide 8 fr.) is ascended from Binn without difficulty;
admirable view (comp. p. 298). Ascent of the Ofenhorn (Punia d^Arbola,
10,620'), by the Albrun Pass (6 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), for adepts only; the last
part not easy ; superb view. Experts (with guides and rope) may pro-
ceed to the E. over the Hohsand Glacier, or past the Obersee and over
the Neufelgiu Pass, to the Tosa Falls (p. 307J. — We now follow the
left bank of the Biiina, by Giessen, to (3/4 hr.) Im Feld (5145'), where the
path, now indifterent, crosses to the right bank (guide advisable). We
enter ('/4 hr.) a pine-wood, pass a number of chalets, and reach (IV4 hr.)
the last huts Auf dem Plafl (6925'; chahiieate spring). We now ascend
steeply to the (1 hr.) Albrun Pass (Bochetta d'Arbola, 7910'), between the
Ofenhorn (see above) on the left and the Albrunhora (9450') on the right.
We descend to the (1 hr.) Pianhoglio Alp, past the (1 hr.) Lago di Code-
lago (8055'), and through the Val Devera, bv Crampiolo to (I hr.) Ai Ponli
(5380* ; poor Inn) and (2', 2 hrs.) Baceno (p". 308). From Ai Ponti over
the Biiscagna Pass to the Alp Veglia, see p. 298. — To the Tosa Falls.
From the Albrun Pass we ascend the valley to the left to the Alp Foriio
Inferiore then via the Sratta-Minojo (8520'; fine retrospect of the Val Devera
and the lake of Codelago) by a bad path to the Logo di Lebendun {Lugo
Vannino, 7065'); then cross the Neufelgiu Pass (8420') and descend the Neu-
felgiu Valley (rounding the slope to the right bv a solitarv chalet) to Auf
der Frut (p. 307 ; 9-10 lirs. from Binn).
From Fiesch to Baceno over the Geisspfad Pass, 12 hrs., a
Baeuekek, Switzerland. 13th Editiuu. 20
306 Route 81. LAX.
route (guide 12 fr.). At Im Feld (p. 305) we diverge to tlie right to the
Messernalp (6175') and ascend past the Geissp/ad Lake (7973') to the (4 hrs.)
Geisspfad Pass (Passo della Rossa, 8365'); then descend, steeply at first,
to the Al2> di VaUleseria and past the Lago di Codelago to Ai Ponli (see
p. 305).
Fkom Fiesch to Baceno over the Kriegalp Pass, 12-14 hrs., toil-
some, and of little interest (guide 12 fr.). From Binn we a.scend to the S.
through the Langthal to (1 hr.) Heiligkrevz (4862') and then to the left
through the Krierjalp-Tlial to the (3'/2 hrs.) Kriegalp Pass {Passo di Cor-
nera, 8420'), between the (1.) Guschihorn (Pizio Cornera, 9920') and the (r.)
Ilelsenhorn (10,743'; ascent from here very difficult, see below). Descent to
the Buscagna Alp in the valley of that name and over the Devero Alp to
(2 hrs.) Al Ponti (p. 305).
Fkom Fiesch to Iselle over the Rittee Pass, 12-14 hrs., trying, but
very interesting (guide 12 fr). From Binn (p. 305) we ascend the Ldng-
Thal to the S. to the (5 hrs.) Ritter Pass {Passo di Boceareccio, 9060'),
between the (r.) Hullehorn {Punta Mottiscia, 10,450') and the (1.) Helsenhorn
(10,743'; for adepts, 2>/2 hrs. from the pass ; magnificent panorama). De-
scent to the (11/2 hr.) beautifully situated Alp Veglia (5800' ; "'Alb. del Monte
Leone, unpretending) in the Val Cairasca, and by Trasquera to (3 hrs.)
Iselle (p. 300).
Beyond Fiesch the road descends the fertile valley, passing
Aernen on the hill opposite (p. 305), to (IV2 M.) Lax (3425';
Kreuz), with a new church, whence the Eggishorn Inn may be
reached in 4 hrs. It then winds down, commanding a fine view the
whole way, with the Weisshorn in the background, to the bridge
of Grengiols (2907' ; Inn), by wliich we cross the deep bed of the
Rhone. (Good path hence by Grengiols in 5 hrs. to Binn, p. 305.)
We descend a rocky ravine, and again cross the river by the Kdsten-
baum Bridge, to (5 M.) Morel (2523'; Hot. Eggishorn, R. &B.2i/2fr.;
*Hot. des Alpes, moderate). — To the Riederalp, 3 hrs., see p. 305.
The valley widens a little. The river here dashes wildly over
sharp slate rocks. On a bold rock below Morel, which the road has
difficulty in passing, rises the very picturesque (IV2 M-) Hochfluh-
kirche (Inn, below, on the Matt). We next cross the Massa, which
drains the Great Aletsch Glacier, reach (3 M.) Naters (2235'), a
large village amidst fruit-trees, commaniied by the ruined castles
of Weingarten and Supersax (Auf der Fluh), and cross the Rhone,
to (1 M.) —
31 M. Brieg, see p. 296.
82. From Ulriclien to Somo d'OssoIa.
Giles Pass. Falls of the Tosa. Val Formazza.
Comp. Maps, pp. 108, 298.
15-16 hrs. Two days, spending the night at the Tosa Falls. Bridle-path
from TJlrichen to the Tosa Falls (5V2hrs.); thence to Foppiano rough (3 hrs.;
porter 6-8 fr.). Guide (to Frutwald 12, porter 10, horse 20 fr.) unnecessary
in fine weather; otherwise advisable as far as the other side of the glacier
(6 fr.). — Road from Foppiano to Domo d'Ossola 21 BI. ; diligence from
Crodo to Domo d'Ossola daily — One-horse carriage from Foppiano to
Domo 20 , from Premia 15 fr. (not always to be had). Porter from the Falls
to Domo d'Ossola 6-8 fr.; horse (for which a carriage and harness may gen-
erally be had at Foppiano) 30 fr. — Domo d'Ossola should be reached
overnight, as the diligences in both directions start at an early hour.
GRIES PASS. 82. Route. 307
At Vlrichen (4380'; p. 303J a bridge t-rosscs the Rho7ie to (10 miii.)
Zum Loch, a group of deserted huts at the entrance to the Eginen-
Thal. The path crosses the Eyinenhach above a fine waterfall, and
leads through larch-wood and a rock-strewn valley to (IV4 lir.)
the Alp Hohsand (5720')- It then ascends a steeper part of the val-
ley, overgrown with alders and rhododendrons, where the brook
forms several falls on the left. In front of us rises the Nufenen-
stock (9387'). In 1/2 lir. we cross the brook by the Ladtsteg (6340'),
beyond which are the dirty chalets of Irn Ladt. To the right, above
us, is the Gries Glacier (see below). Following the right bank of
the brook, we then traverse the highest reach of the valley and
ascend to (20 min.) Altstaffel (6585'), the last chalet, where the
path to the Nufenen Pass diverges to the left (p. 303). A steep
ascent of 1 hr. more brings us to the level Gries Glacier, which
we cross in 20 min. , towards the S.W., passing a small glacier-
lake on the left and a smaller one on the right, to the Gries Pass
(8023'), 31/2 hrs. from Ulrichen, the boundary between Switzer-
land and Italy, surrounded by barren heights, and in clear weather
commanding a line view of the Bernese Alps. (A path, little fre-
quented, leads hence to the N.E. through the Vol Corno to AlV
Acqua in the Val Bedretto, p. 303.)
The S. side of the pass, as is usually the case among the Alps,
is steeper than the N. side. The narrow path at first keeps to
the left. The Griesbach rises here, and unites at Kehrbachi (see
below) with the Tosa or 2'oce, descending from the Val Toggia. The
upper part of the Formazza valley consists of three distinct reaches,
each with its chalets: Bettelrnatt (6900'; two chalets, generally
empty) in the highest (the slope below which is called Wallis-
bdchlen), Morast (or Morasco, 5840') in the second, a,nd Kehrbdchi
(or Riale, 5640') and Auf der Frut (Sopra la Frua), in the third,
with a small chapel and the unpretending *H6t. de la Cascade
(5490'; R., L., & A. 3, B. IV2 fr.). This inn (2hrs. from the Gries
Pass) stands on the brink of a precipice over which the Tosa falls
in three cascades, widening as it descends. The **Tosa Falls, or
Cascata della Frua , 470' high and 85' broad , are perhaps the
grandest among the Alps, especially when the river is high. (We
descend by the bridle-path to the left for 1/4 hr., to a mass of rock
by the wayside, which affords the best survey. A still finer point
is beyond the bridge.) Immediately above the falls a bridge crosses
the Tosa.
The Basodino (10,748'; spcndid view) may be ascended by good climb-
ers without serious difficulty from the inn in 4 hrs. (the landlord , Ant.
Zertanna, acts as guide). Descent, if preferred, to the Val Bavona, p. 429.
Fbom the Tosa Falls to Aieolo, 8 hrs. (guide desirable to Air
Acqua, and necessary in the reverse direction). The bridle-path diverges
by the chapel above the falls to the right from the path to the Gries
Pass, and after 20 min. crosses the brook descending from the Basodino.
It then ascends to the right by the wall (leaving Kehrbachi below to the left),
and mounts in steep zigzags to the (3/i hr.) upper reach of the sequestered
20*
308 Route 8-2. BACENO.
Val Togfjia; 'y^ lir., a bridge; 20 min., chalets Im Moos. (To the ii(^ht
the Bocchetta di Val J/aygia, see below.) The smaW Fisc/i- See, weU stocked
■with trout, lies on the right. By the Alp KonUjin , '/'.; hr. farther,
we recross the brook. In the highest part of the valley we pass another
small lake on the left, and reach (1/2 hr.) the S. Giacomo Pass t757'i'),
the boundary between Switzerland (Canton Ticino) and Italy. Below
the pass on the N. side, stands the (20 min.) chapel of S. Giacomo (7369'),
where the inhabitants of the neighbouring valleys assemble annually for
worship on 25th July. In descending, we enjoy a beautiful view of the
southern St. Gotthard Mts., the Kiihbodenhorn, Pizzo Rotondo, Pesciora,
Lucendro, etc., and also, for a short time, of the Finsteraarhorn and
Fiescherhorner. Farther on (keeping at first to the left) we pass some
chalets, and descend through a growth of rhododendra and larch-wood
into the valley, where we cross two brooks, and then the Ticino, and reach
the (I1/2 hr.) Hospice alV Acqiia (p. 303). Thence to Airolo, see p. 303.
Fkom the Tosa Falls to Bignasco, 9 hrs., with guide, a fine route.
By the Fisch-See (see above) we diverge to the right from the S. Giacomo
path and ascend over debris and rock to the Bocchetta di Val Haggia
(8710'), between the (r.) Kastelhorn and the (1.) Marchhoni ; then descend
through the Val Fiorina (with the snowy Basudino on the right, p. 307) to
the Alp Bobiei, and through the picturesque Val Bavona to Bignasco (p. 429).
Below the Tosa Falls begins the Val Formazza, or Pornmai Valley,
containing the villages of ('/■2 hr.) Fruthwald (Cansa , 4310'),
(10 min.) Gurf (Grovella , 4476'), (1/4 hr.) Zum Steg {Al Ponte,
4200' ; "wlne and a few beds at Schmidt's), with the town-hall and
archives of the valley, ('/4 hr.) Pommat [St. Michele, 4210'), and
(1/2 hr.) Andermatten [Alia Chiesa, 4050'), with the church of the
valley. Below ('4 hr.) Staffelwald (Ital. Fracchie) the path enters
a grand *Deflle , in which it crosses the Tosa twice. At (3/4 hr.)
Vnterwald (Foppiano) , the last village where German is spoken,
the carriage-road begins (vehicles not always to be had; see p. 308).
From the Val Formazza over the Albrun Pass to Fiesch in the Valais,
see p. 305. — To the Val JIaggia (p. 42S), toilsome, and deficient in at-
traction (from Andermatten to Cevio 8 hrs., not without guide): from
Staffelwald a steep ascent of 3 hrs. over the Staffelalp to the Criner Furka
(792.y, fine view); descent of 1'/-.! hr. to Bosco and (S'/'-j hrs.) Cevio (p. 428).
The Carriage Road follows the right bank to (1 M.) Rivasco
(2790' ; Inn) and (1 M.) Passo (2628'). The valley of the Tosa,
called the *Val Antigorio below this point, is one of the most
beautiful on the 8. side of the Alps , and enlivened with water-
falls. The mica-slate rocks between (IV2 M.) iS?. Roceo (*Inn, Asti
wine) and (33/4 M.) Premia (2620'; Agnello) contain garnets. At
(II/2 ^^O Baceno (2245' ; Alb. Derero, Agnello, both well spoken
of), at the mouth of the Val Deuera, a bold bridge spans the deep
gorge of the Devera. (From Baceno to Fiesch over the Albrun or the
Kriegalp Pass, see p. 306.) To the W. rises Monte Cistella (9450').
The Italian custom-house is at (3 M.) Crodo (lf50'; Inn),
below which is (1 M.) a rustic bath-house. Then by i?erjciO and
Ojra to (6 M.) Crevola on the Simplon route, and (3Y2 M.) —
21 M. Domo d'Ossola, see p. 301.
"'"""i.«i««'*~4"-'
It*..
■T-^.
3
309
83. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and
Turtmann.
(Val d'Herens, Val d'Anniviers, Turtmann Valley).
Comp. Maps^ pp. 294, 2Si, SOS and 322.
Good walkers on theii- way from the Lake of Geneva to Zermall (R. 85)
may avoid the Rhone Valley and reach their destination by an interesting
mountain-route in 4-5 days. 1st day. By rail to Sion, and walk through
the Val d'Herens to Evolena, 16 BI. — 2nd day. Over the Col de Torrent
to St. Luc in the Val d'Anniviers, 8-9 hrs. — 3rd day. Ascend the Bella
Tola, and cross the Pas du Boeuf or the Meiden Pass to Gruben in the
Turtmann Valley, Si/-^ hrs. — 4th day. Over the Augstbord Pass to St.
Niklaus in the visp Valley, 7 hrs. (or, including the Schwarzhorn, S'/ahrs.).
On the same day Zermatt may be reached by carriage, or on the next
day on foot (4i/2 hrs.).
i. From Sion through the Val d'Herens to Evolena, and over
the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Anniviers.
To Evolena (16 M.). a post-vehicle with 2-3 seats runs daily at 6.15 a.m.
in 53/4 hrs. (6 fr. 40 c. ; surplus passengers are sent on in open one-horse
carriages), returning at 1.40 in 3'/4 hours. One-horse carr. from Sion to
Evolena, 20-25 fr. (carriages frjm the hotel at Evolena are usually waiting
at the station). — From Evolena over the Col de Torrent to Vissoye a
bridle-path in 8-9 hrs. (guide 12 fr., unnecessary). Horse to Vissoye 24,
to St. Luc 26 fr.
Sion, p. 294. The road to Evolena leads frona the Rhone bridge
(1624') straight to the (I/2 M.) foot of the mountain , which it as-
cends in long windings. (Short-cut by the old bridle-path.) Bra-
mois or Bniinis lies to the left below, and St. Leonard (p. 294) at the
mouth of the gorges descending from the Rawyl. By the isolated
church of (4 M.) Vex (3140'; rustic Inn) we obtain a view of the
head of the valley, first of the Denis de Veisivi and the Pic d'Arz-
inol, and then of the great Ferpecle Glacier, commanded by the
round summit of the Tete Blanche, to the left of which are the
Dent Blanche and the Dent d'Herens. The cultivation of maize,
vines, chestnuts, and walnuts extends as far as Vex.
A bridle-path ascends from Vex to the right, by Presse and Les Agettes
to the (1 hr.) Mayens de Sion or Maiienberg (i26T; Pens, des Mayens, 6 fr.),
a summer resort of the Sionese, in a beautiful and healthy situation,
commanding a magnilicent view of the entire chain of the Bernese Alps.
Hence to He'remence, ^'4 hr.
The road, nearly level, skirts the W. slope, high above the
Borgne. The valley divides, 2'/-2M. farther up. The W. branch is
the Val d'Heremence (see p. 310), and the E. the Val d'Herens
(Eringer Thai). The road passes the large village of Wranence on
the hill to the right, and near Sauierot (3050') crosses the Dixenze,
■which descends from the Val d'He'remence. It then penetrates the
remains of the terminal moraine of that valley by means of two
tunnels. Near the second tunnel in particular, where the road re-
enters the Val d'Herens, are a number of ^Pyramids of earth, each
covered with a stone, which belong to the old moraine and are not
unlike 'glacier-tables'.
310 Route S3. EVOLENA. Tlie 8. Valleys
Val d'Heremence (tlie upper part Vallee des Dii:). A cart-track leads
from Vex (p. 309) to (1 hr.) Hirimence (4055'; bed at the ciire's); thence
a bridle-path by the hamlets of Ayer , Prolin, Cerise, and Mars to the
(3 hrs.) Mayens de Prazlong (5276'), at the W. base of the Pic d^Arzinol
(see below; over the Col de la Meina to Evolena, 4 hrs.). Farther on,
we pass the Miribi Alp (1.) and ascend a ravine to the upper part of the
valley, called La Banna, with the Alp of that name on the right (8094';
thence over the Col du Cret to Fionney, see p. 291). Passing the chalets
of Laularet, we next reach (8 hrs.) the Seilon Alp (7454'), opposite which,
on the left bank of the Dixenze, is the Liappey Alp (7630'; good quarters).
From Liappey over the Col de Riedmatten or the Pas de Chivres to Arolla
(Evolena), see p. 311; Cols de Vasevay, de Seilon, du Mont Rouge, and de
Breney to the Val de Bagnes, see pp. 292, 293. The ' Pigno d^Arolta (12,470')
ia best ascended from this point over the Glacier de Durand and the Col
de Breney (corap. p. 811).
We next reach (21/4 M.) Vseigne (wine at the post-station),
prettily situated. High above, on the opposite bank, is the church
of St. Martin. Beyond (21/4M.) the hamlet of Luette (3347') the road
crosses the Borgne by a bold bridge. (Near the Chalets de Praz-Jenn,
higher up, is the old bridge of the bridle-path.) We ascend on
the right bank below the small chapel of La Garde, to (6 M.) —
Evolena (4520'; *H6t. de la Dent Blanche, II., L., & A. 31/0,
B. 11/2? lunch 3, D. 4, pens. 8-10 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Service in summer),
the capital of the valley, lying picturesquely in a broad green dale
flanked with pine-clad rocks. On the E. rises the *Sasscneire, on
the W. the Mont de VEtoile and Pic d'Arzinol. Looking up the valley
we see the Dents de Veisivi. On the left, high above, are the snow-
flelds of the Ferpecle Olacier and the huge Dent Blanche.
Excursions. (Guides : Jean and Pierre Maiire, Pierre and Jea7i Bey-
trison, M. MHrailler , M. Gaspoz , J. Vtdgner , M. Pralong , M. Chevrier,
and Ant. Bovier.) — Arolla and Ferpecle, see l^elow. — On the E. side
of the valley: Villa, La Sage, and Forclaz (p. 312), all with fine views
(s/4-l'A hr.). — "Sasseneire (10,692'; guide 6 fr.), by the Col de Torrent,
5 hrs., see p. 313. The view from the Couronne de Brionna (10,380'; guide
7 fr.) , farther to the S., is similar. — Bees de Bosson (10,368'; guide
7 fr.), 6 hrs., see p. 313.
W. side : The Alpe de Niva (6624'), 2 hrs., affords an admirable survey
of Ferpecle and Arolla. — The -Pic d'Arzinol (9843'; guide 7 fr.), ascended
by the Col de la Meina (bridle-path thus far) in 4'/2 hrs., is very interesting
and not difficult. Below Evolena we cross the Borgne and ascend to the
left (avoiding the path to the right to Lanna, 1/2 hr.), through wood, and
past the 'Glaciere Naturelle', a cleft in the rock filled with ice. We cross
(l'/2 hr.) the Merdesson, the discharge of the Glacier de Vouasson, ascend
pastures to the (2 hrs.) Col de la Meina or Col de Miribi (8878'; thence to
Prazlong in the Val d^Hirimence, 5 hrs. from Evolena, see above), and
mount a rocky arete to the right to the top (1 hr.). Magnificent panorama,
especially towards the S. (Mont Blanc , Aiguille Verte , Grand Combin,
Mont Velan, Matterhorn, Weisshorn), and of the Bernese Alps to the N.
Descent 2'/2 hrs. — Mont de VEtoile (11,063'; guide 6 fr), by the Alps Niva
and Creta in 6 hrs., repaying, but for adepts only; so also the Pointe de
Vovasson (11,472'), 6-7 hrs., whence we may descend the Glacier des Ai-
guilles Rouges to the Alp Lucel (see p. 811), and AroHa.
The Val d'He'reiis divides at Hauderes (4747'), 1 hr. S. of Evo-
lena. To the W. is the Combe d'Arolla; the E. branch, terminated
by the Glacier de Ferpecle, retains the name of the main valley.
(a.) *Combe d'ArolIa. The bridle-path (from Evolena to Arolla
3^2 hrs. ; horse or mule 8, there and back 10 fr.) crosses the Ferpecle
oftheValais. AROLLA. 83. Route. 311
at Hauderes, turns to the right, and crosses the Borgne to Pralovin.
It then ascends the W. slope of the valley, overlooking the wild
ravine, and through wood to the (1 hr.) Chapel of St. Barthelemi
(5960'), by a huge rock. We next ascend gradually, past the
(10 min.) chalets of Oouille ('Blue Lake', see below), Satarma
(10 min. beyond which we take the upper path to the right, not the
path along the river), Praz Mousse, and La Montaz, to the (1 V2 ^''O
Mayens d'ArolIa (6572'; Hot. du Mont Collon, pens. 7-8 fr. ;
Eng. Ch. Service in summer), amid Swiss stone-pines ('AroUa' or
'Alpine cedar') , splendidly situated opposite the grand pyramid of
Mont Collon (11,955'), at the base of which the Glacier d'AroUa
(r.) and the Glacier de Vuibez (1.) unite. To the right rise the rocks
of the Serra de Vuibez (10,150') and the snow-clad Pigno d'Arolla
(12,470'), and close to the inn is the old moraine of the Glacier de
Zigiorenove.
ExCDRSioNS (guides, see p. 310; also Jos. Qttinodoz of Arolla). To the
*Lac Bleu de Lucel, a pleasant walk, I1/2 hr. (or from Evolena 3 hrs. ;
without guide). At Satarma, 2V2 M. from Arolla, a steep path ascends
to the left (X.W.) to the chalets of Lucel (6S20' ) , a little beyond which
is the clear pale-blue lake, fed by a brook falling from the rocks. Beautiful
view of Mt. Collon; to the W. tower the abrupt Aiguilles Rouges; to the
left is the Cascade des Ignes, descending from the Glacier des Ignes.
The Mont Collon (11,955'; guide 40 fr.), best ascended from the W.
side (Col de Chermontane), is only fit for adepts with steady heads; so also
the Eveque (12,265'; guide 50 fr.), rising to the S. of Jit. Collon. — The
'Pigno d' Arolla (12,470'; guide 25 fr.) is ascended by the Glacier de Piice
in 6-7 hrs.; very grand and not difficult; descent by the Pas de Chivres
(see below). — The Petite Dent (10,465'; guide 8 fr.), one of the Dents de
Veisivi, is ascended without difficulty via the Alp Zarmine. The Grande
Dent (11,240'; 10 fr.) is more difficult. "Between the Petite and Grande Dent
the Col de Zarmine (10,045'), not easy, leads from Arolla to Ferpecle. —
The Aiguille de la Za (12,050'; 30 fr.), the Dent Perroc (11,992'; 35 fr.),
and the Dent des Bouquetins (12,625'; 40 fr.) involve difficult climbing.
Passes. To Valpellina over the Col de Collon, a grand route and not
difficult (7-8 hrs. from Arolla to Pra-Raye, two guides, 30 fr. each). We ascend
the Glacier d' Arolla, skirting the K. base of the almost perpendicular rocks of
Mt. Collon, remarkable for their echoes, to the snow-basin of Za-de-Zan and
the (4 hrs.) summit of the Col de Collon (10,270'), to the S.E. of the Eveque
(see above). View grand, but not extensive. Descent over the Glacier de
Collon to the profound Combe d''Oren and (3 hrs.) Pra-Rayi (6760' ; tolerable
quarters at the chalets , but often closed), and in 3 hrs. more (bridle-path)
to Bionaz (5248'), and thenca via (1 hr.) Oyace (4490') to (IV2 hr.) Valpeliine
(p. 293). (Passes from the Valpellina to the Vol iSt. BartMlemy, see p. 278.)
"Those who cross in the reverse direction should take provisions from
Aosta; good guides not easily found there, but a peasant who knows
the pass may be found at Bionaz (Bapt. Baraillon, among others). From
Pra-Raye to the Col 31/2-4, descent to Arolla 2V2-3 hrs. — From the basin of
Za-de-Zan (see above) we may ascend to the left to the Col de Za-de-Zan
(about 1U,830'), between Mont Briili (11,880') and the Col du Mont Brule
(p. 312); descent, steep and difficult, to the Glacier de Za-de-Zan (p. 278)
and Pra-Rayi.
To THE Val D'HfeRfiMENCE from Arolla there are two passes close to-
gether: the Col de Riedmatten (9567'; 4 hrs. to Liappey), and to the S. of
it the Pas de Chevres (9355' ; 3'/4 hrs. from Arolla; rather more difficult).
From the latter we descend steep rocks and over the Glacier de Durand or
Seilon (beware of numerous concealed crevasses) to the (41/2 hrs.) chalets
of Seilon (7465'), opposite Liappey (p. 310). (The Riedmatten route descends
the rocks and grass-slopes on the right side of the glacier.) Then down
312 Route 83. FERPtlCLE. The S. Vnlleyi>
the Valine des IHx to (4'/2 hrs.) lUremence ^ see p. 310. — Or, i'rom'the
Uurand or Seilon Glacier (p. 311) we may ascend to the Col de Seiloii
(10,663'; 4V-2-5 lir,s. from Arolla; p. 292j and thence either descend the
Glacier de GUlroz to (2V2 hrs.) Mauvoiain (p. 292), or cross the Col dii Mont
Rouge (10,960') and descend the Glacier de Lyreroie to (S'/a hrs.) C/iermon-
lane (p. 292; guide 25 fr.).
To THE Val de Bagnes over the Col de Chermontane, 11 hrs., a
long and fatiguing glacier-route (guide 2.5 fr.). We ascend over the moraine,
the lower end of the Glacier de Zigiorenove^ and the Glacier de Piice or
Torgiwn to a snowy saddle (10,235') on the W. side of the Serra de Vvibez,
and thence bv the Glacier de Vuibez to the Col de Chermontane (10,118'),
between the' Petit Mt. Collon (11,630') and the Pigtio d' Arolla (p. 311).
Striking view of the Mont Collon , the Dents with the Aiguille de Za,
the Dent Blanche, and to the N. the Bernese Alps. Descent across the vast
snow-fields of the Glacier dOtemma to Citermontane (p. 292). — Longer,
but far more striking, is the route to Chermontane over the Col de I'Eveque
(11,483'; 13 hrs.; guide 30 fr.). Route over the Glacier d' Arolla to the
Col de Collon, p. 311; here we ascend to the right to the Col de VEvc-
que, lying S.W. of the Ev^que (p. 311), and then descend a snow-arete
between the (1.) Seiigla (12,153') and the (r.) Petit Mont Collon (11,632') to
the Glacier d^Otemma, and as above to Chermontane.
To Zermatt over the Col de Bertol, 11-12 hrs., fatiguing but re-
paying (guide 30 fr.). We traverse the Glacier d^ Arolla to the Plan de Bertol,
and ascend rocks and the steep Glacier de Bertol to the Col de Bertol
(about 10,800'), between two of the i)e«(s de jBeHoi (11,505' and 11,143'). We
then cross the vast snow-fields of the Glaciers du Mont Mini and de Ferpicle,
past the Tete Blanche (which takes l'/4 hr. more to ascend; see below), to
the Col d''Herens and the Slockje Htit (p. 313); thence to Zermatt, see
p. 313. — Over the Col du Mont BrulS and the Col de Vali-elline,
another grand route, 12-13 hrs. (guide 30 fr.). We follow the Col de Collon
route to the basin of Za-de-Zan, ascend steeply to the left to the Col du
Mont Brule (10,397'), cross the crevassed upper Za-de-Zan Glacier (passing
on the left the Dents and Col des Boiiquetins, p. 313), and mount labor-
iously to the Col de Valpelline (11,685'), on the S. side of the Tele Blanche
(12,303'; ascended from the col in 3/4 hr. ; splendid view ; see below). Then
down the Stock Glacier to the Slockje (see p. 313).
(b.) *Ferpecle. (^Bridle-path, 2^2 hrs. from Evolena to the inn ;
liorse or mule 8, there and back 10 I'r.) At Hauderes, by the third
house before the bridge (p. 310), we diverge to the left, ascend
gradually, and then more rapidly over a rocky height, passing si.K
chalets. Beyond the next ridge of rock we ascend to the left to (^1^
hr.) Sepey (SSSC), where the path from Forclaz (see p. 310 ; '/2 hr.
longer, but finer) joins ours on the left. The imposing head of the
valley (Glacier de Ferpecle and Dent Blanche) is now revealed, the
view being flnest from the chalets of Prazfleuri, the second group
beyond Sepey. Then through wood to (3/4 hr.) the chalets of Salay
or Ferpecle (5910'; *H6t. du Col d'H^rens , plain, li., L., & A. 3,
B. l'/2i lunch 21/21 I^- 3 fr.), splendidly situated facing the Fer-
pecle Glacier, the discharge from whicli forms a line waterfall.
Just beyond the hotel a narrow path ascends to the left through
larch-wood and over debris and pastures to the (1V2 hr.) 'AlpBricolla (7960^),
a strikingly grand point of view. At our feet lies the huge Ferpecle Glacier,
to the left is the snow-clad Wandfluh, and farther off rise the huge Dent
Blanche and the Grand-Cornier. To the right, separated from the Ferpecle
Glacier by the Mont Mine, is the Glacier du Mont Mine, with the Dents
de Bertol, Aiguille de la Za, and Dents de Veisivi.
Ascents. Dent Blanche (14,318'), very difficult (13-14 hrs. from F'er-
pecle; guide 70 fr.). Ascent usually made from the Stockje (p. 313). —
oftheValnis. COL DE TORRENT. 83. Route. 313
Grand Cornier (13,022'j, from Ferpecle 7-S hrs. , toilsome, but without
danger (guide 30 fr.).
Passes. To Zinal over the Col do Grand Cokniee, 10-11 hrs., a
superb route, not very difficult (guide 30 fr.). Beyond (IV2 hr.) Bricolla
(see p. 312j we turn to the E. to the Glacier de la Dent Blanche.^ and
ascend it rapidly to the (31/2 hrs.) Col du Grand Cornier or de la Dent
Blanche (11,627'), between the Dent Blanche and the Grand Cornier. We
descend an arete to the right and snow-slopes, jias-sing the Roc Noii; to
the (2'/2 hrs.) Constantia Club But (p. 315), and over the Durand (Zinal)
Glacier to (3 hrs.) Zinal (p. 315). — Over the Col de la Pointr ]>k
BuicoLLA. 10 hrs. to Zinal (guide 35 fr.), rather fatiguing. From Bricolla
(see p. 3i2) we ascend to the N.E. across the Glacier de Bricolla and
over steep rocks , partly covered with ice , to the (3V2 hrs.) Col de la
Fointe de Bricolla (about 10,160'; splendid view), immediately to the E.
of the Pointe de Bricolla (see below). We descend across the Glacier de
Moiri/, and by the Col de VAllee, and the Alp de VAllee to (5 hrs.) Zinal.
With this excursion may be easily combined the ascents of the Pie. de
Bricolla (12,015'), the Bouquetin (11,430'J, and the Pigne de VAllie (11,163').
— Over the Col de Couronne {Col du Zati or Col de Brionna) and the Col
de VAlUe-i see p. 315.
To Zermatt over the Col d'Hekens, 10-11 hrs., a very fine route,
but fatiguing (guide 30 fr.). From Bricolla in 3/4 hr. to the Ferpecle Glacier,
which we ascend, at tirst steeply, to the (3 hrs.) Col d'Herens (11,417'), be-
tween the Wandfluh and the THe Blanche (12,303'; easily ascended, from the
pass in 3/4 hr. ; very grand; we may descend to the Col de Valpelline, and
regain the Zermatt route at the Stockje; this adds i'/i-V/^ hr. to the route;
see above. Col de Valpelline). To the E. towers the overvv'helming Matter-
horn. From the pass we descend steep rocks and the crevassed Stock Glacier
to the (1 hr.) Club Hut (9052') on the Stockje, a rocky island at the head of
the Zmutl Glacier, between the Stock Glacier (1.) and the Tiefenmatten
Glacier (r.). We descend the latter, skirting the rocks of the Stockje,
to the stone-covered and tiresome Zmutt Glacier, and at length regain a
firm footing at the (3 hrs.) Staffelalp (p. 325). Thence to Zermatt IV2 hr.
To PKA-RATfi OVER THE CoL DES BoUQCETINS (10-11 hrS. ; guide 30 fr.),
also fatiguing. We either follow the Col d'Herens route (see above), or
ascend the left moraine, past Mont Mini, to the upper Ferpecle Glacier,
and mount to the right to the Col des Bouquetins (11,215'), to the E. of
the Dent des Bouquetins (12,625'). Descent over the Glacier de Za-de-Zan
to Pra-llaije (p. 311).
From Evolena to Vissoye oveb the Col de Torrent, bridle-
path, 8-9 hrs. (guide 15 fr., convenient ; horse 24 fr.^. Halfway between
Evolena and Hauderes we ascend to the left to La Sage and Villa (to
which a short-cut ascends 20 min. S. of Evolena, to the left, through
a steep gorge"). We ascend the Alp Cotter in long zigzags, and then
across slate-d^ris, to the (4 hrs.) *Col de Torrent (9693'), on the
S. side of the Sasseneire (see below), and obtain a striking view
of the Val d'Herens and the mountains encircling its upper end
(fromr. to 1. : Pointe de Vouasson, Aiguilles Rouges, Mt. Pleureur,
Mt. Blanc de Seilon, Serpentine, Pigno d'AroUa, Petites and Grandes
Dents, Dents de Bertol, Mont Mine', Tete Blanche, etc.).
The 'Sasseneire (10,692'), 1 hr. from the col (with guide); its stony
slopes steep and fatiguing. Superb panorama of the Bernese Alps to the N.";
the Jura appears like a blue line beyond the Col de Cheville (p. 238). To
the S. the attention is chiefly arrested by the Dent Blanche (see above).
To the N. of the Sasseneire a bridle-path crosses the Pas de Lona (8924')
to the Val d'Anniviers, also a very fine route; from the Chalets de Praz
Jean to Grimence 8 hrs. (guide 12 fr.). The Bees de Bosson (10,308'; superb
view) may be ascended from the pass in 2 hrs.
314 Route S3. VAL d'ANNIVIERS. The S. Valley i*
The path descends in long windings, passing the N. side of the
little Lac de Zozanne (8870'), in full view of the lofty range be-
tween the Anniviers and Zermatt valleys (Gabelhorn, Trifthom,
Rothhorn, Weisshorn, Brnnnegghorn, Diablons), to the Torrent-Alp
(7940') and the (I'/a hr.) Alp Zatelet-Praz (7083'), in the Val de
Moiry or de Torrent, watered by the Navigenze, the W. branch of
the Val d'Anniviers. The valley is grandly terminated by the Glacier
de Moiry, overshadowed by the (r.) Couronne de Bre'onna, Za de
TAno, Pointe de Bricolla, Grand Cornier, Dent Blanche, (1.) Pigne
de I'AUee, and the black slaty cone of the Garde de Bordon.
ZiNAL (p. 315) may be reached from this point in S'/j l)rs. by remount-
ing the E. slope of the valley and crossing the Col de Sorebois (8970').
From the ' Corne de Sorebois (9210'), 20 min. to the N. of the pass, we
obtain a splendid view of the Weisshorn, Rothhorn, Gabelhorn, Grand
Cornier, Dent Blanche, etc. Descent by an easy path, or (shorter, with
guide) direct through wood to Zinal. — To Zinal over the Col de I'AlUe
and to Evolena over the Col de Couronne or the Col de Brionna, see p. 316.
Beyond the Alp we traverse a level and monotonous valley and
descend a rocky defile to (11/2 tr.) Qrimence, or Gremenz (5016'),
a large village. Thence via St. Jean to (1 hr.) a bridge over the
Navigenze (3898'), and to ('/4 hr.) Vissoye (see p. 315).
ii. From Sierre through the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal.
To Vissoye (11 M.) a tolerable road; horse 10, one-horse carr. 12 fr.
Sierre, p. 295. We follow the road to the E. to the (IV4 M.)
Rhone Bridge (1774'), 1/2 M. beyond which the road to the Val Anni-
viers diverges to the right and ascends rapidly through wood. Be-
low, to the right, lies Chippis, at the influx of the Navigenze into
the Rhone. After an ascent of 2'/2 M. we enter the Val d'Anniviers
(Ger. Einfischthal or Eifischthal ; 3050') , with the deep and inac-
cessible gorge of the Navigenze to the right. Beyond (1 74 M.) Niouc,
the road is carried by means of galleries across a wild ravine,
descending from the left; and immediately before the hamlet of
Barmes we cross a similar ravine.
A direct route to Niouc for walkers diverges to the right beyond the
station of Sierre, passes under the railway embankment, and crosses a
hill to the new Rhone bridge and (20 min.) Chippis. Beyond the first
house we turn to the left and cross the Kavigenze; then, leaving the church
to the left, a narrow path following the telegraph-wires, frequently cross-
ing the road, and at length uniting with it, leads us to (IV4 hr.) Niouc.
A footpath, diverging to the left beyond the first gorge (see above)
leads from Niouc by Sussillon (4516') in 3 hrs. to the lofty village of
ChandoUn (6340'), whence a good path through pine-forest, with beauti-
ful views of the Val d'Anniviers, the Rhone Valley, and the Bernese
Alps, descends to St. Luc in 11/2 br. — The lUhorn (8935'), which over-
looks the Illgraben (p. 295), the Rhone Valley, and the Bernese andValais-
ian Alps, is ascended without difficulty from Chandolin in 2'/2 hrs.
To the S. the beautiful snow-mountains enclosing the valley,
the Rothhorn, Trifthorn, Besso, Dent Blanche, etc., are gradually
revealed. To the right below the road (81/2 M.) is the prettily sit-
uated village of Fang. (Travellers bound for St. Luc must at the
coachhouse of the hotel at St. Luc, about Y2 M. before Fang, take a
oftheVnlais. ZINAL. 83. lioute. 315
narrower path to the left, ascending gradually to St. Luc in 1 1/2 tr. ;
see p. 316.) The road follows the valley, passing several small
ravines. On the opposite slope lies Painsec. Then (3 M.) Vissoye
(4000'; *H6t.-Pens. d'Anniviers, R. & A. 21/2, D- 3 fr.), the capital
of the valley , on a hill on the right bank of the Navigenze , with a
handsome church.
St. Luc (steep ascent of 1 hr. from Vissoye), Hdtel Weisshorn &>/* hrs.),
Bella Tola (41/2 hrs.), etc., see p. 317.
Beyond Vissoye (1/4 M.) the road leads towards a saw-mill (not
to the left), to (1^/4 M.) Mission at the mouth of the Val de Moiry
(see p. 314), and (1 M.) Ayer (4777'), with deserted nickel-mines.
(To St. Luc, see p. 316.) The road ascends a little, (1 M.) crosses
a torrent, and passes a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip.
It then (3/4 M.) crosses the Navigenze, passes a chapel on the left
bank, recrosses (l'/2M.) to the right bank, and (I1/2M.) reaches —
I81/2 M. Zinal (5505'; *H6t.-Pens. Durand, R. &L. 21/2, B.IV2,
D. 4 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Service in summer). The valley ends towards
the S., 1 hr. from Zinal, in the Durand or Zinal Glacier.
ExcDiisioNS (guides, Elie Piter and the schoolmaster Joachim). The
'Alpe de I'Allee (7178'), to the W., above the lower end of the glacier,
2 hrs. from Zinal, commands a noble survey of the head of the valley, of
the mountains from the Dent Blanche to the Weisshorn, and of the glaciers
of Durand and Homing, separated by the beautiful double-peaked pyramid
of the Besso (12,057'). The path may be found without a guide. Beyond
the hotel we cross ('/4 hr.) to the left bank, and traverse pastures; V2 hr.,
fragments of rock , vyhere we ascend gradually ; 20 min., a ravine with a
waterfall above; beyond the ravine we turn to the right, and 10 min.
farther, right again (the more level path leads to the glacier), ascending
in zigzags ; 35 min., a stone chalet on the first mountain terrace. Then
rather a steep ascent; 2/4 hr., to the left; lOmin., chalet. Descent in IV2 hr.
The *Alpe d'Arpitetta (7420'), opposite the last-mentioned, to the E.,
affords an even finer view, particularly of the Weisshorn, the Homing
Glacier, and the Rothhorn. A still more imposing and complete view is
commanded from the Hoc de la Vache (S485'), ascended from the Alp in
1 hr. By crossing the terminal moraine of the Durand glacier (with guide),
the two above points of view may be combined. — Good walkers, how-
ever, should not fail to extend the excursion up the Durand Glacier to
the new Constantia Club Hut (9495'), at the S. base of the Besso (4V2 hrs.
from Zinal), overlooking the grand amphitheatre of the glacier, encircled
by the Kothhorn, Trifthorn, Gabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier, and
Bouquetin. The view is still grander from the Roc Noir (10,262'), rising
from the ice opposite the Mountet, reached in 1 hr. from the club-hut (guide
from Zinal 10 fr.).
Ascents. The 'Come de Sorebois (921U'), 3 hrs.. with guide, easy and at-
tractive, see p. 314. — The Points d'Arpitetta (10,302'), from the Alp Arpitetta
3 hrs. (easy and repaying). — Besso (12,057'), rather steep and toilsome,
for experts only (3-4 hrs. from the Constantia Club-hut; guide 20 fr.);
view exceedingly grand. — Pigne de I'AUee (11,168'; 15 fr.), from the Alp
de TAllee 3-4 hrs., not very difficult. — Bouquetin (11,430'; 20 fr.), from
Zinal over the Col de VAlUe and the Glacier de Moirti 6-7 hrs., and *Dia-
blons (11,850'; 12 fr.), by the Alp Tracuit 6 hrs., both laborious. — The
Grand Cornier (13,022' ; 30 fr.), is best ascended from the plateau of ne've
below the Col du Grand Cornier (p. 313), the last part difficult. — Zinal-
Rothhorn or Morning (13,855'; 80 fr.), a difficult and hazardous scramble
(from the Constantia Club-hut 6-7 hrs.). — Ober-Gabelhorn (13,365'; 60 fr.),
also very difficult. Comp. p. 327.
Passes. To Evolena over the Col de Sorehois and Col de Torrent, see
316 Route 83. ST. LUC. The S. Valley a
p. 314; by the Col du Grand-Cornier and the Col de la Poiate de Bricolla
see p. 313; by the Pas de Lona, see p. 313. — Over the Col vr i/Ai,i,fiK
AND THE Col de Couuonne, 10-11 hrs. (guide 15 fr.), trying, and for adepts
only. From the Alp de TAllce we ascend steep grassy and rocky .slopes
to the Col de I'AUee (10,483'). Descent to the Glacier de Moiry, and another
steep ascent to the Col de Couronne (9895'J, between the Couronne de liriouna
and the Za de VAno. Then a steep descent to Ferpicle (p. 312). — Instead
of the Col de Couronne we may cross the Col de Brionna (9574'), lying
to the X., between the Couronne de Breonna and the Herra Aeire, or the
Col du .^a«^ (9433'), between the Serra Neire and the Poinie de Zate (both
toilsome).
To (5RDBEN in the Turtmann Valley over the Pas de la Forclella or (he
Col de Tracuit (des Diablons), see p. 318.
To Zeematt over the Triftjoch, 11-12 hrs., trying and difiicult; for
steady experts only (guide 30 fr.). From the (4'/:; hrs.) Constantia IIul (see
p. 315) we traverse the Durand Glacier towards the E. to tlie (P/j br.)
foot of the precipitous rocks of the Triflhorn (12,260'), and clamber up at
first by a ladder, with the aid of a rope, and then along narrow ledges
of rock and through perpendicular couloirs. The (l'/2 hr.) Triftjoch
(11,614'), between the Trifthorn and the Ober-Oabelhorn (13,365'), adbrds a
striking view of Monte Rosa and the Mischabel. Then down the Tri/t
Glacier and its huge moraine to (4 hrs.) Zermatt (p. 322).
To Zermatt over the Col Durand, 13-14 hrs. (guide 30 fr.). From
the Constanti.i club-hut we ascend towards the S., passing the Hoc A'oir
(see p. 3!5), at first gradually, but soon rapidly, and in some years with
difficulty, to the (4 hrs.) Col Durand (11,398), between the Moiil Durand
{Arbenhorn, 12,284') and the Poinie de Zinal (12,487'), where we obtain a most
striking view of the Matterhorn towering opposite. Descent (not direct
over the Hohwdng Glacier to the Zmiitt Glacier, as the lower part of the
former is full of crevasses) to the left, over the rocks of the Ebihorn, to
(3'/2-4hrs.) Zmutf (p. 325) and (1 hr.) Zermatt (p. 322).
To Zermatt over the Homing Pass (12,445'), between the Rothhorn
■and Schallihorn (14 hrs. ; guide 35 fr.), and to Randa over the Schallijoch
(12,307'), between the Schallihorn and Weisshorn (14 hrs.; 35 fr.), very
difficult and toilsome.
From Zinal to St. Luc (3V4 hrs.). We return to (5 M.) Ayer (p. 315)
by the road, ascend to the right, and skirt the hill-side, traversing past-
ures and wood (guide desirable, 5 fr. ; or enquiry may be made at Ayer).
iii. St. Luc ; Bella Tola ; over the Pas du Boeuf (or the Meiden
Pass) into the Turtmann Valley, and over the Augstbord Pass to
the Valley of the Visp.
Road from Sierre to Vissoye (11 M.); ascent thence to St. Luc, 1 hr.
(from Sierre direct to St. Luc 5 hrs., horse 10 fr. ; comp. p. 315). Luggage
under 10 lbs. may be sent by post. Ascent of the Bella Tola from St.
Luc 3'/2 hrs. ; from the Bella Tola to Gruben over the Pas du Boeuf in 47z,
or the Meiden Pass in 3V2-4 hrs. (guide 10, horse 16 fr.). From Gruben
over the Augstbord Pass to St. Niklaus 7 (or including the Schwarzhorn
8V2) hrs. (guide 12, horse 30 fr.).
St. Luc (5495'; *H6t.-Pens. de la Bella Tola, to the W. of the
village, with a depeiulancc in the village, R. & L. 2-3, lunch 3,
D. 4 fr. ; Engl. Ch. Service in summer), lying on a steep and lofty
slope, amid pastures and fields , commands a superb view of the
profound Val d'Annlviers and the snow-mountains at the head of
the valley (Schallhorn, Besso, Ober-Gabelhorn , Mont Durand, Mat-
terhorn, and Pointe de Zinal) , and of the Rhone Valley , the
Diablerets, Oldenhorn , and Wildhorn to the N. Having been al-
most entirely burned down several times, St. Luc now consists
of the Valais. MEIDEN PASS. 8 :i. Route. 317
chiefly of substantial new houses. Above tlic village , to the
N. (400'; '/* ^""O is the ^Druids' Stone\ locally called '■Pierre des
Servagios' (stone of the savages), a rock projecting from the turf,
the E. side of which is said to have once served as an altar.
About 2 hrs. above St. Luc (through the village and along the water-
course to (25 min.) a saw-iuill and bridge, thence, keeping steadily to the
upper path, lo the hotel, 2 hrs.; also by the direct bridle-path from Vissoye
iu 274 hrs.. chiefly through wood of stone-pines; 4 hrs. from Zinal) is the
Hotel "Weisshorn (about 7550'; burnt down in 1889), in an open and pictur-
esque situation on the Tete du Moiiton or Tcie a F(a, a spur of the Rochers
de A'ova, with splendid view and rich flora. Excursions may be made hence
to the top of the Points de Nava (9118'), to the Lac de Tounot (abundant
Edelweiss), to the Pas de ForcleUa, to the Meiden Pass (2 hrs), to the top
of the Bella Tola {'2^/i hrs., with guide), and other points.
The *Bella Tola (9758'; 31/2 hrs.; guide 6 fr. , advisable;
horse 8 fr.) , an admirable and favourite point of view , is the
N.W. peak of a group of mountains enclosing the large crater-like
basin of the Bella Tola Olacier on the S. side. From the hotel we
proceed to the church, immediately beyond which we turn to the
left; 1 min. more again to the left (the path straight on leads to the
Hotel Weisshorn, see above); 40 min., ascend to the left; 4 min.,
turn to the right; 10 rain., ascend in zigzags, then through wood and
across two brooks to (40 min.) a white hut known as the 'Chalet
Blanc'. Then to the left over an old moraine ; 5 min., to ths right
in a straight line for the centre of the Bella Tola; I74 hr. we reach
its base and ascend in steep zigzags to (50 min.) a refuge-hut, and
(left) to (15 min.) the summit. The N.W. peak, that usually as-
cended, is marked by a metal vane, but a path ascends the S.E.
peak (10,138') also. The view embraces the whole of the Bernese
and Valaisian Alps, and the eye ranges over a circle of 200 M. ; op-
posite, to the N., the whole gorge of the Dala is visible, up to the
Gemmi. The mountains to the S., from Monte Leone (p. 299) to
Mont Blanc, are particularly grand.
In order to reach the Turtmann-Valley we descend from the Bella
Tola to the S., and ascend to the left to the (Ihr.) Pas du Boeuf
(9154^. In descending into the Borterthal we keep to the left, and
in some seasons cross a patch of snow. At (IV2 ^^0 *^^ chalets
of Pletschen the track divides: to the left to (2'/.2 hrs.) Turtmann
(p. 295), to the right to (2 hrs.) Gruben (see p. 318).
The direct route from St. Luc to Gruben crosses the Meiden
Pass (9154'; 5 hrs.; guide hardly needed). After 50 min. we cross
the brook descending from the Bella Tola, then proceed straight on
(passing in 6 min. a path diverging to the left to the Bella Tola)
to the (1 hr.) Alp Tounot (to which we may ride). The path ascends
pastures and then over rocky de'bris to (I'/ohr.) the pass, to the N.
of the Tounot (9920'), with a fine view of the Weisshorn. Brunnegg-
horn, Barrhcirner, and the range between the Turtmann and Nicolai
valleys. We descend past several small lakes (with the Meiden-
hom, 9780', on the right) to the Upper and the Lower Alp Meiden
318 Route 83. AUGSTBORD PASS.
(7613'; fine view of the great Turtmann Glacier, sec below). Lastly
a zigzag descent through larches and stone-pines , to the Alpine
hamlet of (2hrs.) Gruben, Zmeiden , or Meiden (6060'; *n6t.
du Weisshorn, plain), in the Turtmann Valley.
The Turtmann Valley ends to the S. in the magnificent Turtmann or
Baue Glacier, imbedded between the Diablons (11,850'), Weissliorn (14,803'),
Brunnegghorn (12,628'), and Barrhorn (11,920'). At its base lie the chalets
of Sennthum (IV2 hr. from Gruben). A difficult, but interesting route crosses
this glacier and the Col des Diablons, or de Tracuit (10,673'), between the
Diablons and the Weisshorn, to Zinal (9-10 hrs. from Gruben ; guide 16 fr.).
From Gruben to Zinal over the Pas de la Forcletta, 8 hrs., not
difficult, and fairly interesting (guide 12 fr.). By the Loioev BUimmattalp^
1/2 hr. above Gruben, we ascend to the right through wood to the (1 hr.)
Upper Blummatt (7680'), with a fine view of the Turtmann Glacier, Weiss-
horn, etc. Then past the chalets of the Kaltberg., and through a dreary
valley to the (S'/z hrs.) Pas de la Forcletta (9810'), between the (r.) Roc de
Biidri and the (1.) Crete dHhnherenza. Fine view of the Valaisian and
Bernese Alps. Descent to the chalets oi Remoinze (S503'), and over pastures;
lastly through wood, either to the right to (3 hrs.) Aijer, or to the left to
(4 hrs.) Zincd (p. 315).
From Gruben to Turtmann (p. 295 ; 3>/2 hrs.). The bridle-path follows
the right bank of the Turtmannbadi, via Siaffel and Niggelingen, to the
(I'/i hr.) VoUensteg., which carries the path to the left bank. Thence we
proceed through the Tauhwald or Dubenwald, a pine-forest now much
thinned. In the middle is a little white chapel with numerous votive
tablets. At (I1/2 hr.) Tummenen (3200') we recross the stream, by the se-
cond bridge, then descend the steep left bank of the brook, with fine views
of the Ehone Valley, to (I/2 hr.) Turtmann (p. 295).
From Gruben to St. Niklaus or Stalden in the Vispthal a bridle-
path (7 hrs.; with the Schwarzhorn S'/o hrs.; guide desirable). It
ascends the steep E. slope of the valley and the Gruben- Alp to the
(3 hrs.) Augstbord. Pass (9515'), between the Steinthalhorn (iO, 300')
on the S. and the Schivarzhorn (10,523') on the N., affording a flue
view of the Fletschhorn, Simplon group, and Mischabel.
The "Schwarzhorn (10,523') is easily ascended in 3/4-I hr. from the pass.
__Superb view, finer than from the Bella Tola (p. 317): N., the Bernese Alps ,
""from the Doldenhorn to the Finsteraarhorn ; E., the St. Gotthard group,
Alps of Ticino, Mte. Leone, Fletschhorn, Weissmies, and the imposing
Blischabel; .S., Monte Rosa, the Lyskamm, Brunnegghorn, Weisshorn,
Dent Blanche, Diablons, etc.
The path descends over debris (bad for riding) into the Augst-
bord Valley. We may then either go to the right, skirting the Stein-
thalhoni, to the village of Jungen (splendid view of the Vispthal
from the church ; to the left the Gassenried Glacier , Dom , and
Grabenhorn, to the right the Brunnegghorn and Weisshorn; in the
centre the Breithorn and Zwillinge) , and descend in zigzags to
(3 hrs.) St. Niklaus. Or we may turn to the left and descend to
Emd and (3'/2brs.) Stalden (see p. 319).
A route from Gruben to St. Niklaus by the Jung Pass (about 8840'), far-
ther S., also affords fine views (6 hrs.; guide 12 fr.). — The Barr Pass
(11,800'), Brunneggjoch (11,100'), and Biesjoch (11,644') are difficult glacier-
passes, fit for experts only with able guides (25-30 fr. each).
St, Niklaus, and thence to Zermatt, see R. 84.
319
84. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the
Theodule Pass to Chatillon.
Comp. Maps, pp. 29S, 308, 322.
From Visp to Zermatt 8-9 hrs. (Stalden I'A hr., St. Niklaus 2'/2 hrs.
Randa 5'/2M., Tiisch 2V2M., Zermatt 31/2 M.). Bridle-path to St. Is^iklaus,
carriage-road thence to Zermatt. Porter from Visp to Stalden 3, to St. Isi-
klans 6, to Zermatt 12 fr. ; horse from Visp to Stalden 6, to St. Niklaus
12 fr. — Wagli, or light vehicle for 3 pers., from St. Niklaus to Zermatt
15 fr. — The carriages, horses, and guides at St. Niklaus are superintended
by an official who settles the order in which they are to be hired. (Hr.
Sailer's vehicles , which bear his name , are independent of this arrange-
ment.) Letter and Parcels Post (also for portmanteaux, etc.) from
Visp to Zermatt daily (in July and Aug. twice daily) in IOV2 hrs. The post-
vehicle between St. Niklaus and Zermatt takes three passengers, 4 fr.
each. As it does not leave St. Niklaus till noon , travellers starting
early from Brieg with a porter may reach St. Niklaus in time to send on
their luggage by post, and may possibly obtain a seat. Luggage sent by
post from Zermatt to Visp is not certain to arrive in time for the evening
train to Martigny.
From Zermatt to the Theodule Pass 51/2 ; thence to Valtournanche 4 hrs.;
an easy route, frequently undertaken by ladies (guide to Breil 15 fr. ; one
sufficient). From Valtournanche to Chatillon (new road below TJssin) 4 hrs.;
railway thence in 50 min. to Aosta , 15V2 M. Carriage with one horse
from Chatillon to Ussin 12-15 fr. ; with two horses 22 fr. ; mule and atten-
dant to Valtournanche 15 fr. ; guide from Chatillon to Zermatt 25 fr., from
Valtournanche 20 fr. ; including the Breithorn 40 fr.
The route from Visp to Zermatt is easy and attractive, being varied
with picturesque rock -scenery and waterfalls. At the entrance to the
Vispthal appears the beautiful Balfrin (12,475'), and beyond Stalden the
huge Weisshorn (14,803') and the Brunnegghorn (12,628'). INear St. Kiklaus
the Breithorn (13,685') and the peak of the Little Matter/torn (12,752') come
in sight. Beyond St. Niklaus the superb Breithorn is conspicuous nearly
all the way to Zermatt. Lastly, near Zermatt, the Great Matterhorn
(14,705') becomes visible. Besides these , many other peaks, with glaciers
descending from them, are visible on both sides.
Visp (2155'), see p. 296. We follow the telegraph-wires. Before
the last house on the S. side of the village the path turns to the right,
towards the rapid and turbid Visp. We follow the right bank of the
stream, which fills the entire breadth of the valley, 100' below, cross
it by the (IV4 hr.) Neubriicke, and ascend more rapidly to (40 min.)
Stalden (2736'; Hot. Stalden, R., L., & A. 3fr.; Restaurant, at the
baker's), situated in a very fertile region, on a mountain-spur, at the
foot of which the Saaser and the Gorner Visp unite. The valley di-
vides here. The vast group of the Saasgrat, the N.E. spur of the
Monte Rosa mass, separates the Nicolai Valley from the Saas Valley.
The culture of the vine extends about 2 M. beyond Stalden.
To THE SiMPLON HospiCE OVER THE BisTENEN Pass, 11 hrs., repaying
(guide 15 fr.; Jo/t. Ftirrer of Stalden or J. Dorsaz of Simplon ; horse 30 fr.).
From Stalden the route leads by Staldenried and Gspon (6230') to a pass
(about 7200') lying to the N. of the Ochsenhorti (9547'), also reached in 4 hrs.
from Visp by Visperterminen. Descent to the chalets of Bististaffel (6170')
in the upper Nanzer Thai, ascent again to the Bistenen-Pass (about 7870'),
and descent thence to the Simplon Hospice (p. 298).
The path ascends rather steeply for 20 min. (shorter footpath to
the left, opposite the Hotel Stalden), and then skirts the left bank
of the Visp, with fine views of the Weisshorn and the neighbouring
320 Route 8i. ST. NIKLAUS. From Visp
peaks. Above, to the right, are the little church and hamlet of Emd,
situated on so shelving a pasture that, according to the local wits,
the very fowls must be shod with iron to enable them to keep their
footing. We descend in windings, and at the bottom of the valley
cross the Visp (1 hr. from Stalden ; the foot-path, diverging to the
left at the telegraph-post No. 201, 40 min. from Stalden, is shorter.)
We then ascend the right bank past two huts, where refreshments
may he had, to a (1 hr.) second bridge over the Visp, where the
valley expands, and follow the left bank to (1/2 hr.) —
St. Niklaus (3820'; pop. 806; *Gr. Hotel St. Nicolas, R., L.,
& A. 3'/2) lunch 31/2, D. 5 fr. ; Hot. -Pens. Lochmaiter,^&\\ spoken
of), the capital of the valley. (To Gruben over the Augsthord Pass,
see p. 318.)
Road to Zermatt (13 M.). Above St. Niklaus the road crosses
the (1/2 lir-) Blattbach , which descends on the right from the
Brunnegghorn , and then the Visp by a ('/2 M.) new bridge , as-
cends on the right bank, and enters a pine -forest. Passing
(2M.) a lofty waterfall in several leaps to the right, the village of
(1/2 ^^0 Herbrtgen (4134'), and the chalets of Langenmatt and
Breitenmatt , we next reach (2 M.) the village of Lerch (4350').
High up on the left is the Festi Glacier, descending from the Dom
(p. 326); to the right is the Weisshorn (14,803') with the Bies
Glacier; and to the S. rise the Little Maiterhorn and the superb
Breithorn. Between (1/2 M.) Randa (4740'; *H6t. Weisshorri) and
(21/2 M.) Tasch (4777') the traces of a landslip which is said to
have buried a whole village are still visible. Opposite to us (W.)
is the Schallithal , with the Hohlicht Glacier , commanded by the
Rothhorn. (Through the Tcisch Valley, to the E., runs the route to the
Alphubeljoch, p. 332.) We next cross the stream at the (2'/4 M.)
5M/tf(5023'). To the right the stupendous Matterhorn now suddenly
comes in sight ; in the middle distance lies the Gorner Glacier ; and
above it stretches the vast Upper Theodule Glacier, with the Little
Matterhorn and the Breithorn on the left. The road then passes the
(1 M.) Spiessbriicke, and traverses meadows to (^/^ M.) Zermatt.
Zermatt, Riffelberg, etc., see R. 85.
The path from Zermatt to the The'odule Pass, on the left bank
of the Visp , crosses the Zmuttbach (charming view of the finely-
wooded Zmutl Valley , with the Matterhorn in the background)
and ascends to the hamlet of (2/4 hr.) Zwm See (5700'). We now
enter the Zmutt Valley to the riglit, then diverge to the left from
the path to the Staffelalp. and follow the new bridle-path amidst
stone-pines. On leaving the wood (2/4 hr.; rfmts. at the chalets of
Zermilttje) we obtain a splendid survey of the Gorner Glacier
(p. 324), with Monte Rosa and the Lyskamm in the hackground.
At this point the bridle-path to the Schwarzsee Hotel (p. 324) di-
verges to the right. After crossing the brawling Furgybach (fine
to Chatillon. TH]&ODULE PASS. 8d. Route. 321
waterfall a little farther up), the Matterjoch path, very dusty in dry
weather, ascends the stony slopes in many windings. On the right
is the dirty Furgg Glacier 'i above it towers the Matterhorn, which
faces us the whole way with varying outline. An ascent of 3 hrs.
more brings us to the moraine of the Upper Theodule Glacier (about
8856'), where the bridle-path ceases. We may then either ascend
the glacier (a good deal crevassed, but presenting no difficulty; rope
necessary), to the (13/^-2 hrs.) Theodule Pass ; or we may follow the
path to the left, over rocks and debris, to the (^/^ hr.) Lower Theo-
dule Hut (about 9840' ; Inn, well spoken of), finely situated on
the Leichenbretter, rocks between the Lower and Upper Theodule
Glaciers, and thence ascend over the upper glacier to the (1 V4 ^r-)
Theodule Pass or Matterjoch (10,900' ; small Inn with eight beds,
poor; 'vin briile' 3 fr.), to the S. of the T/ieodufftorn (11,393'), on
the frontier between Switzerland and Italy. View limited. Ascent
of the *Breithorn, see p. 325.
We now descend to the right (the route to the Col des Cimes
Blanches and Fiery leading to the left; see p. 336), over the Val-
tournanche Glacier , which is usually less crevassed than the
Theodule Glacier. The guides frequently discard the rope here, but
it is safer not to dispense with it, especially after snow. In 1/2 hr. we
reach the end of the glacier at the spot known as Les Fourneaux.
The well-defined path (riding practicable) then descends past the
Chalet des Cors to the (IV" hr.) *H6t. du Mont Cervin at Jomein
(6860'; R., L., & A. 3V2-^", D- 4-5 fr.), 15 min. above the chalets
of Breuil, amidst imposing scenery (mules for hire).
Ascent of the Matterhorn from Breuil, see p. 326. — Over the Col des
Cimes Blanches to Fieri/, and thence to Macttgnaga, see R. 87. — Guides
are not always to be found at Breuil, tut always at Valtournanche, a fact
to be noted by travellers coming from the S.
To Pka-Rat6 over the Col du Val CouRNfeRE, 6 hrs., with guide,
rough but repaying. We cross the Matmoire ^U hr. below Breuil and
ascend to the right to the (I'/a hr.) Col de Dza (8010'^, enjoying a superb
survey of the Matterhorn; descend a little, then ascend over grass, rock,
and snow, round the S. side of the Chateau des Dames (see below) and
past some small lakes, to the (2 hrs.) Col du Val Cournere (10,325'), to
the S. of the Pointe de Fontanelle (11,1C)0'), with a fine view of 3It. Velan,
the Grand Combin, etc. (From Valtournanche a bridle-path leads to
the chalets of Cigiiana; thence a steep and laborious climb to the pass,
41/2-5 hrs.) Descent through the Val Cournere to (I'/'s hr.) Pra-Rayi in
the Valpellina (p. 311). — The Chateau des Sames (11,435') may be as-
cended from the pass in 2'/2 hrs. (not very difticult, guide 15-13 fr.).
We descend to the chalets of Breuil or Bred (6575') and then
traverse an open valley, surrounded by imposing mountains ; to the
right the Matterhorn, 'iete du Lion, Dent d'He'rens, Jumeaux du
Vallou (Pointe Sella to the left, Pointe Giordano to the right) ; and
to the left the Cimes Blanches. At the end of the level valley are
the Chalets d'Aouil. The path now descends steeply through a wild
and romantic, defile , crosses (3/4 hr.) the Matmoire (or Marmore^
near a fine waterfall in a wild gorge (^Cascade de Busserailles or
Grotte du Geant , approached by a wooden gallery ; 1 fr.) , and re-
Bakdkker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 21
322 Roule fid. VALTOURNANCHE.
crosses it near the village of (3/4 hr.) Valtouruanche f50G0' ; *IIuL
du Mont Rose), with the church of the upper valley. To the E. rises
the finely shaped Monte Roisetta.
To the Col des Cimes Blanches, see p. 236; Col du Val Coiiniere, see
p. 321. Guides: /. A. Carrel, nr '• Bersaglier\ Lonis Carrel. J. J. and
P. Maquiijnaz , L. lUrin, J. B. Bic , ti. Meynette, J. Barmasse, C. Oorrel,
C. Pession, and others. — The Grand Tournalin (11,057% reached via Che-
neil in 5 hrs., with guide (12 fr.), is not difficult for experts. On the top
is the Capanna Carrel of the I. A. (J. Splendid view.
We now descend to the lower part of the valley and cross the
Matmoire (to the right the pretty Cignana Waterfall) to (1 hr.)
Vssin (4240'), where the new road begins. High up to the left is
the hamlet of Chamois (6000') where oats are cultivated, in spite of
the elevation. The first walnut-trees appear at (^4 hr.) Fiernu
(Cantine de la Rose) ; on the slope to the right lies the church of
Antey-St. Andre. The dilapidated arches of Roman aqueducts occa-
sionally appear at a great height on both sides of the valley. Behind
us the huge pyramid of the Malterhorn keeps steadily in view as
far as (1/2 hr.) Orand Moulin, where it suddenly disappears. The
Matmoire is again crossed ^/^ hr. farther down , and the road runs
among fine walnut and chestnut trees past Champlong to —
1 hr. (4 hrs. from Valtouruanche) Chutillon, see p. 278.
85. Zermatt and its Environs.
Camp, also Map, p. 308.
Hotels. Hotels '^du Mont-Ceevin, *Dn Mont-Rose, and "Zermatt, all
belonging to Hr. Seller; R., L., & A. 31/2-4, B. I1/2, lunch 3, D. 5, pens.
10-12 fr. ; 'Post, R., L., & A. 2'/2, B. I1/2, lunch 21/2, D. 4, pens. (R. e.xtra)
6 fr. ; Bellevue, outside the village, pens., incl. R., 7-10 fr. — *H6t.-
Peks. Riffelalp (also Hr. Seiler's) , admirably situated 2 hrs. above
Zermatt on the way to the Riffelberg, excellently managed, R.,L., & A. 5,
D. 5, pens. 13 fr. (patronised by the English). -^ "Hot. -Pens. Riffel or
RiFFELHAUs (Hr. Seller), on the Riffelberg, 3 hrs. from Zermatt, R., L.,
ii A. 41/2, I'. 5 fr.
Post and Telegraph Office (comp. p. 319), by the Mont-Cervin Hotel.
Guides abound, and several are first-rate {Alex. Burgener; Weisshorn
Biner; Peter Knubel; the brothers Gentinetta; Alois Pollinger; Joh., Jos.
Maria, and Clemens Perren; Jos. JJoser; Jos. and Ambros. Imboden, etc.).
Further information may be obtained from Hr. Seiler. The charges for
the different excursions are stated below in each case. An agreement should
be made with the guide as to the luggage he is to carry- — Horse to the
Riffelalp 8, Rift'el 10, Gorner Grat 12, Schwarzsee 10, Upper Theodule Gla-
cier 15 fr. — Horses for the Gorner Grat are rarely to be had at the Riffel.
English Church opposite the Mont-Cervin Hotel.
Dried Plants from the neighbourhood (an excellent field for botanists),
insects, and minerals are sold by Slephan and Jos. Biner, 'botanic' guides.
— Exposition Loppe (p. 258) , in the former Hotel des Alpes , above the
church.
Zermatt (5315'; pop. 530), called by the Piedmontese Pra-
borgne, lies in a green valley with pine-clad slopes, above which, to the
S., rises the snowy Theodule Glacier, commanded by the Breithorn
on the left and the huge rock-pyramid of the Matterhorn on the right.
Zermatt surpasses the Bernese Oberland in the magnificence of its
glaciers, although inferior in variety. In no other locality is the traveller
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ZERMATT. fi5. Route. 323
so completely admitted into the heart of the Alpine world, the very sanc-
tuary of the 'Spirit of the Alps'. The panorama from the Gorner Grat,
in particular, though destitute of the common attributes of the pictur-
esque, cannot fail to impress the spectator with its unparalleled grandeur.
The Zermatter Hof contains an admirable ^Relief of the Environs of Zer-
mati, from the Weisshorn to Macugnaga, by Imfeld (admission gratis).
The Churchyard contains the tombstones of M. v. Grate (p. 331), Cli.
Hudson and R. Hadow (who perished on the i\Iatterhorn in 1865), W. K. M'il-
son (Kifi'elhorn , 1865) , H. Chester (Lyskamm , 1869) , and to the right of
the church Michel Croz (p. 326). Beside the English Church (p. 322) repose
several other travellers who have perished among the mountains.
Excursions from Zermatt. To the *Gorges du Gorner (1 '/2 lir,
there and hack). We follow the The'odule route (p. 320} to the
(20 min.) lower bridge over the Zmuttbach, and turning to the left
reach (10 min.) the entrance (1 fr.) to the picturesque gorge,
through which the Matter -Visp dashes In brawling cascades.
Bridges and paths lead to (5 min.) the upper end of the gorge,
whence a path leads to the left to the Schwegmatt, on the right
bank of the Visp, and thence to the Riffel path, by which we may
return to (^/i hr.) Zermatt.
Deservedly foremost among the attractions are the *RifFelberg
and **Gorner Grat, easily visited in a single day. The bridle-path
(to the Riff elhaus 21/2-8, descent 1 1/2-2 hrs. ; guide unnecessary) can-
not be mistaken. From the Hotel du Mont-Rose we follow the road,
leaving the church to the left, for 8 min., and cross the Visp; on
the right bank we ascend through pastures; 8 min., at the church of
Winkelmatten (5500'), we turn to the right; 2 min., bridge over the
Findelenbach, descending from the left (p. 325); here we turn to the
right, cross the pasture to the right, and ascend more rapidly, passing
between (8 min.) four huts; then a wood of larches and stone-pines,
where the path ascends the Fdllistutz to the left; 35 min., a hut,
above the Schwegmatt, whence we observe the lower end of the
Gorner Glacier, the Furggbach issuing from the Furgg Glacier, and
in the Zmutt valley, to the right, the Hohwiing Glacier (p. 316);
25 min., chalets on the Aug stkummen- Matt (7110'). The steep old
path to the Riffel now ascends straight on, while the new and easier
path to the left describes awide bend through a wood of stone-pines,
and passes the (15 min.) *H6tel Riffelalp (7305'), commanding a
superb view of the colossal Matterhorn, of the Zmutt Valley with the
Dent Blanche, and of the Ober-Gabelhorn, Trifthorn, Rothhorn,
Weisshorn , etc. Adjacent are an English chapel and a Roman
Catholic chapel. Above the hotel the two paths unite. At the foot
of the Biffelberg (12 min.) we cross the brook, and then ascend in
easy zigzags to the (3/4 hr.) *Riffel Hotel (8430' ; p. 322), which
enjoys a fine view of the Breithorn and Matterhorn and other peaks.
The Gugel (8680'), the height to the N.E., commands also the Fin-
delen and Adler glaciers and the Adler Pass.
The **Gorner Grat (10,290'; 4975' above Zermatt), a rooky ridge
rising from the table-land of tlie Rifl'elberg , and reached from the
21*
324 Route 8r>. ZERMATT. Kxrtirsions.
Riffelhaus in 172 lir. (bridle-path, guide unnecessary; liut at the
top with refreshmts.), commands a most imposing scene (see Pano-
rama). The spectator is entirely surrounded by snow-peaks and
glaciers. The Mischabelhorner (Taschhorn, 14,757'; Dom, 14,940'),
huge spurs of the Monte Kosa extending towards the N., between
the twin-vaUeys of Zermatt and Saas , as well as the mountains
opposite them (Ofeer-Gafeet/torn, 13,365'; Rothhorn. 13,855'; Weiss-
horn, 14,803'), contest the palm with the giants of the central chain
themselves. Of the peaks of Monte Rosa itself, the highest and one
other only are visible, and its appearance is less imposing than from
the Italian side. The most striking object in the panorama, and in-
contestably the lion of Zermatt, is the Matterhorn (14,705'; p. 32(5).
Around the base of the Riffelberg , from E. to W., winds the im-
mense *Gorner Glacier, which is joined in its course by six other
glaciers, and from the base of which issues the Visp (Matter- Visp).
From the Hohthiiligral (10,796'), the E. prolongation of the Corner
Grat, 3/4 iir. more (for those tolerably free from dizziness; guide con-
venient), the view is still finer and embraces the Findelen Glacier also.
From the Riffelalp (p. 323) there is another path to the Rilfel Inn,
1/2 hr. longer than the above, but more interesting from its frequent prox-
imity to the Gorner Glacier. At the Hotel Riflfelalp it diverges to the
right from the bridle path and skirts a stony slope (Riffelbord), the
liaunt of the marmot, at first in the direction of the Matterhorn, then
towards the beautiful and dazzling snows of the Breithorn, beside which,
farther on, appear the Zwillinge , the Castor (13,880') on the E. and the
Pollux (13,430') on the W. After 1/2 hr. a path diverges to the right to
the Lower Gorner or Boden Glacier, which at this point, below the ice-
fall, may be crossed in safety (with guide). The path to the Riftelhaus
continues to ascend the slope and now mounts to the left; 12 min. turn
to the left; 20 min. Gagenhaupt (8430'), a huge mass of rock to the W.
of the Riffelhorn (see below); then, to the N., to the (20 min.) RifTelhaus.
— The following extension of this walk is recommended. From the Gagen-
haupt we ascend to the E. towards the col, passing close to the N. side
of the Riffelhorn; '/2 l""., a small pool. The path leads towards an open-
ing through which Monte Rosa is visible, passes the little Riffelhorn- See,
and in 1/4 hr. reaches the Bothe Kummen, a rocky ridge to the E. of the
Riffelhorn (9615'). The latter, a grotesque peak about 650' higher than the
Rothe Kummen, is a conspicuous feature in the landscape (ascent, p. 326).
The RilTel Inn, '/z hr. N.W., is visible as soon as the brow of the moun-
tain is reached. The rock-arete to the E. near the Rothe Kummen, is the
Gorner Grat (p. 323), the ascent of which from this point takes 1 hr.
Mountain ascents and passes from the Riffelhaus, see p. 325.
To the *Schwarzsee Hotel (8490'), a favotirite excursion
(272l^i'S-; mule-path, guide unnecessary; horse 10 fr.). We di-
verge to the right from the The'odule route at the (I/2 hr.) chalets
of Zermdttje (p. 320) , and follow the winding bridle-path over
pastures, with a continuous view of the Gorner Glacier, Lyskamm,
and Monte Rosa, to the (1 hr.) *Sc]iwarzsee Hotel (R., L., & A.
372, lunch 3, D. 4, pens. 8 fr.), which is situated on a detache<l
hill, above the Furgg Glacier. Below, 5 min. to the AV., lies the
little Schwarzsee (8385'). The view from the hotel is scarcely in-
ferior to that from the (jrorner Grat (comp. the Panorama). A still
finer view is commanded from the *H6rnli (9490'; 1 hr. from
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Excursions. ZERMATT. 6'5. Route. 325
the hotel; guide advisable for the iuexpevienced), parti<;iilarly of
the stupendous Matterhorn.
The route from the Hornli to the lower Malterhorn Hut (10,745'; I'A hr.,
with guide) is very attractive for adepts ('eoinp. p. 326). — An easy return-
route from the Schvyarzsec to Zermatt leads over the Staffelalp (see he-
low); a more interesting route (but suited only for those of some ex-
perience ; with guide) leads over the boulder - strewn Ftirgg Glacier and
the crevassed Gorner Glacier to (4 hrs.) the Riffelhaus (guide, including
the Hornli, 10 fr.).
To the StafiFelalp (3»/2 hrs. irom Zermatt and back ; without guide). Above
(3/4 tr.) Zum See the path diverges to the right from the The'odule route
(p. 320) and follows the right side of the deep Zinntt Valle//, through beautiful
stonepine and larch wood, to the (2 hrs.) Staffelalp (7043'), commanding an
admirable view of the huge Matterhorn with its glacier, the rock- strewn
Zmutt Glacier with the Stockje, the Stock Glacier and Tete Blanche, and
(r.) the Hohwang Glacier ; behind us, the Rimplischhorn, Strahlhorn, and
Stockhorn. A shorter way back (stony) leads by the hamlet of Zmutt on the
left side of the Zmuttbach, to which we cross by a bold bridge. — From
the Staffelalp we ascend the stony Zmutt Glacier to the (2V2 hrs.) Club
Hut (9087') on the Stockje (p. 313), where the night is spent by travellers to
Evolena, etc. (Ascent of the Tcte Blanche., see p. 312).
To the Findelen Glacier, 3 hrs. (guide 5 fr., unnecessary). We follow
the Riffel path to the ('A tir.) church of Wiiikelinatten (p. 323) , and
proceed, on the right bank of the Findelenbac/i, to Findelen (680S') and
the (l'/2 hr.) Eggenalp (7182') where the path divides ; both paths lead
past the Stelli-See (8343') to the (I'/i hr.) Fluh-Alp (8570'), whence the
glacier may be surveyed. A pleasant path also leads from the Pens.
Riffelalp (p. 323), mostly through wood, to (40 min.) Findelen. Near the
end of the glacier, by the left moraine (■'/4 hr. from the RilTelalp) lies the
little Griinsee (7580'; rfmts.). — By Findelen to the Lower and Upper
Kothhorn, see p. 326.
Mountain Ascents from Zermatt or the Riffelhaus.
The -Breithorn (13,685'), highly attractive, may be ascended from Zer-
matt without difl'uulty in V/2-8 hra. (guide 30 fr.). We follow the Theo-
dule route to the (3V2 hrs.) Loicer Thiodule Hut (see p. 321) where the
night is spent (or in the inn on the Theodule Pass). From the hut we
gradually ascend across the Upper Thiodule Glacier (leaving the Theodule
Pass on the left), then climb round the steep rocks of the Little Matter-
horn (Petit Mont Cervin, 12,752') to the Breithorn plateau, and lastly mount
a steeper slope of ice, where step-cutting is sometimes necessary. The
snow-clad summit commands a very imposing view : towards the W.
towers the gigantic Matterhorn ; to the left of it Mont Blanc ; to the right
of it the Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier, G.abelhorn, Trifthorn, Rothhoru,
Schallihorn, Weisshorn ; N. the Bernese Alps, the Saasgrat (Balfrin, Kadel-
grat, Dom, Taschhorn, Alphubel), Allalinhorn, Rimpfischhorn, Strahlhorn ;
E., Monte Rosa, Lyskamm , the Zwillinge ; S., the Graian Alps (Grau
Paradiso and Grivola). Descent to the Theodule Pass 11/2-2 hrs.
The Cima di Jazzi (12,525'), also easy (51/2 hrs. from the RilVelhaus ;
guide 12 fr.). From the Riffel we follow the Gorner Grat route to the
C/z hr.) Eolhe Boden (9120') then turn to the right and skirt a steep slope
as far as the (I'/i hr.) Gorner Glacier, reaching it at the ^Gadmen" (8620').
A gradual ascent on the ice brings us to the (1 hr.) Slockknubel (9957'), a
resting-place at the rocky base of the Stockhorn (11,595') ; thence 2'/4 hrs. to
the summit. Superb view, but often hazy on the Italian side. Care must
be taken not to approach the overhanging snow on the K. (Macugnaga)
side ; were it to give way, the traveller would be precipitated to a depth
of 3-4000'. If strength permits, we go on to the (1 hr.) 'Jfcw Weissl/ior Pa!:s
(p. 327), whence the view of Macugnaga below, apparently only a stone's-
throw distant, is very striking. Back to the Riffel 3-4 hrs. — Descent to
Zermatt across the Findelen Glacier (sec above) not recommended on ac-
count of theextensive moraine.
326 Route 85. ZERMATT. Mountain Ascents.
The Riffelhorn (9615'; giiiilc, with rope, 6 fr.), I'/i hr. fnim (he Kinrl
Inn, affords a fine survey of the Vispthal.
•Mettelhorn (11,188'; 5 hrs. from Zermatt; guide 10 tV.), an admirable
point (Matterhorn, Zinal-Rothhorn, Gabelhorn, Weisshorn, and Mischahcl).
l?ridle-path for 3V2 hrs.; then over diibris and snow, not difficult.
TJnter-Gabelhorn (11,148'; 5 hrs. from Zermatt; guide 25 fr.), not diffi-
cult for experts. Ascent over grass and debris, then through a steep cou-
loir generally filled with hard snow (step-cutting necessary), lastly a climb
over rocks. Beautiful view of the Matterhorn (quite near), the Dent Blanche,
Ober-Gabelhorn, Rothhorn, Weisshorn, Jlischabel, Monte Ilosa, Lyskamm,
Breithorn, and Mont Blanc in the distance.
Ober-Rothhorn (11,215'; 5 hrs. from Zermatt ; guide 10 fr.), attractive
and not difficult. Ascent via Findelen (p. 325), the Rothe Bodeii, and the
Fiirijgje., to the E. of the Unter-Roihhovn (10,190'; another easy ascent). —
Strahihorn (13,752'; 8 hrs.; 30 fr.), up the Findelen and Adler Glacievs, noi
difficult. — Rimpfischhorn (13,790'; 8-9 hrs.; 40 fr.), bv the Langenflnh
ffiacjcr, difficult. - Dom (14,940'; 11-12 hrs. from Eanda; 50 fr.), very toil-
some, but without danger or serious difficulty for adepts. Usual to bivouac
under the rocks 3'/2 hrs. above Eanda; then cross the Festi Glacier and the
arete which separates it from the. Ho hb erg Glacier; and lastly ascend over
steep snow and ice to the (7-8 hrs.) summit. View one of the grandest
among the Alps.
The Lyskamm (14,880'), ascended by the Lysjoch (see p. 827) in 7-8 hrs.,
is difficult, and dangerous on account of the overhanging masses of snow
on the final arete.
* Monte Rosa, Ilochste , or Dufour- Spilze (15,217'; 8-9 hrs. from the
Uiflelhaus, there and back, 14 hrs. ; two guides, 40 fr. each; porter 25 fr.)
was first ascended by Mr. Smyth in 1855, with Job. zum Taugwald (comp.
p. 329). For experts the ascent is free from danger or serious difficulty,
but it is attended with much fatigue, and requires a perfectly steady head.
The route descends below the Gorner Grat to the Gadmcn rock (see p. 325),
crosses the Gorner Glacier and the Monte Rosa Glacier., and then ascends
over rocks to the (3 hrs.) Untere Plattje (9810'); then over snow to (1 hr.)
Aufm Felsen {Oberes Plattje, 10,970'). Again an ascent of 3 hrs. over snow,
very steep at places, to the Sattel (14,285'), where the S. peaks of Monte
Rosa are revealed. We now (the most difficult part) ascend precipitous
snow-aretes, and at last gain the top (1-3 hrs., according to the state of the
snow), by clambering over perpendicularly piled slabs of rock. "'View ex-
ceedingly grand. (Admirable Panorama by Imfeld.) — Besides the Dufour
peak, the following also belong to the Monte Rosa group : Nord-End (15,132'),
Zumstein- Spitze (15,005'), Signal- Ktippe (Ptmla Gnifetti; 14,965'), Parrot- Spitze
(14,577'), Ludwigshohe (14,252'), BaUnenhovn (14,185'), Schwarzhorn (13,880'),
and Vincent- Pyramide (13,920').
The Matterhorn, Fr. Mont Cervin (14,705') was ascended for the first
time on 14th July, 1865, by the Rev. Mr. Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas,
Mr. Whyniper, and Mr. Iladow , with the guides Michael Croz and the two
Taugwalders. In descending Mr. Hadow lost his footing not far from the
summit, and was precipitated along with Mr. Hudson, Lord Francis, and
Croz, to a depth of 4000' towards the Matterhorn Glacier. Mr. Whymper
and the two other guides escaped by the breaking of the rope. — Three
days later the ascent was again made by four guides from Breuil (p. 321),
and it is now frequently undertaken both from Zermatt and Breuil. The
rock has been blasted at the most difficult points , and a rope attached
to it, so that the most formidable difficulties have been removed; but
even now the ascent should not be attempted by any but proficients, ac-
companied by guides of the first-class (100 fr., with descent to Breuil 150 fr. ;
porter to the upper hut 30 fr.). The ascent takes 9-10 hrs., including
halts, from the Schw.ir/.see Hotel , where the preceding night is usually
•spent: to the lower hut at the beginning of the N.E. arete (10,7450, 2'/:;
hrs.; thence to the unserviceable upper hut (12,608') 3 hrs., and over the
Acfisel to the summit 2 hrs. more excl. of halts). — 'The ascent from 5re«i/
(p. 321) is more difficult: over the Col du Xion (11,845') to the new Cabane
de la Tour (12,760') of the Italian Alpine Club in 5-6 hrs., and thence
Pas»eK. ZERMATT. 85. Route. 327
by the Mauvais I'as , the Col Tyndall^ the Ci-avate ., with the old Italian
refuge-hut, and the Pic Tyndall to the top in 6-7 hrs. more.
Very difficult (fur thorough experts only, with first-rate guides), and
not altogether free from danger: Ober-Gahelhorn (13,365'; 8-9 hrs.; guide
(50 fr.), better from the W. side (Col Durand). — Zinal-Rothhorn {Morning^
13,855'; 9-10 hrs.; 80 fr.; ascent from Zinal, p. 315). — Weisshorn (14,803';
80 fr.), from Randa 10-11 hrs.: by the SchalHberg - Alp to the Weisshorn
Hut on the Hohlicht (OSSC), where the night is passed, 4 hrs.; thence up
the E. arete to the summit, 7-8 hrs. — Dent Blanche (14,318'; 10-12 hrs.;
70 fr.), from the Slockje Hut (p. 325), and up the Wandfluhgrat ; possible
in a favourable state of the ice only (comp. p. 312). — Dent d'Herens {Mont
Tabor, 14,706'; 70 fr.), 7-8 hrs. from the Stockje, by the Tiefenmatten Glacier.
Passes. To Bkeuil in the Val Tournanche, or to Fiert in the Ayas
Vallev, over the Thiodule Pass (10,900'), not difficult (guide 15 fr.; see R.
84 and p. 321). To Breuil over the Furggjoch (10,860'), to the E. of the
Matterhorn, shorter but more difficult than the 'Thcodule Pass (the
Schwarzsee Hotel is the best startini;-point, see p. 324) ; or over the Col
de Tournanche (11,378'), to the W. of the Matterhorn, difficult (guide 30 fr.).
Col du Lion (11,845'; guide 40 fr.), dangerous owing to falling stones, see
p. 326. — To FifiKY over the Schwarzthor (12,777'), 10-11 hrs. from the
Riffel (guide 35 fr.), difficult. The track ascends the Corner Glacier and
the crevassed Schwdrze Glacier to the summit of the pass, between the
Breithorn and the Pollux, and descends the Verra Glacier and Klein-Verra
Glacier to the Val d'Ayas. Over the Verra Pass or Zwillings Pass (about
13,100'), between the Castor and Pollux, also difficult. — To Gressonet
OVER THE Ltsjoch, 12-14 hrs. from the Rift'el, laborious (guide 50 fr.). The
Monte Rosa route is followed to the Plattje (p. 326) , and the right side
of the crevassed Grenz Glacier ascended, skirting the slopes of the Dufour-
Spitze (beware of ice-avalanches), to the upper snow-basin of the glacier,
enclosed by a majestic amphitheatre of the peaks of Monte Rosa, and the
(6-7 hrs.) Lysjoch (14,040^), between the Lyskamm (14.890') and the Ludwigs-
hbhe (14,252'), affording to the S. a superb *View of the plain of Piedmont
enclosed by the Apennines and the JIaritime Alps. Descent across the Lys
Glacier (with the Vincent Pyramide., 13,920', rising on the left ; ascent 1 hr.),
to the (IV2 hr.) Capanna Gnifefti (11,905'; see p. 335) of the I. A. C; thence
either to the left across the Garslelet and Indren Glaciers to the (l'/2 hr.)
Col delle Pisse (p. 335) ; or to the right bv the Garstelet Glacier to the
(lV-2-2 hrs.) Capanna Linty (10,200'). Thence into the Val de Lys, to the
Za»e< ..4;^ (quarters) and to (31/2 hrs.) Gressoney-la-Triniti (p. 334). — From
the Riffel to Gressoney over the Felikjoch (13,514'), to the E. of the Castor,
difficult, and dangerous owing to frequent ice-avalanches ; 12 hrs. to Gres-
soney-la-Trinite (guide 35 fr.). On the S. side of the pass, 2 hrs. below
it, is the Capanna Quintino Sella or Lyskamm Cltih-hut of the I.A. C. ; comp.
p. 335. — To Alagna in the Val Sesia over the Sesia Pass (14,435'), be-
tween the Signalkuppe and the Parrot-Spitze, and the Vigne Glacier, very
difficult and dangerous. Over the Piode-Joch {Ippolita Pass, 14,186'), between
the Parrot-Spitze and the Ludwigshtihe, also dangerous (feasible in the re-
verse direction only, from the Sors Alp, p. 335, and up the Piode Glacier).
— All these passes are for experts only, with first-rate guides.
To Macugnaga over the New Weissthor (about 11,800'; 9-10 hrs.; guide
30 fr.). The route to the pass (5 hrs. including the Cima di Jazzi, a di-
gression of 3/4-1 hr. ; see p. 325) is one of the easiest and finest of glacier-
excursions. Beyond the pass a farther ascent is made over abrupt rocks ;
then a giddy descent, along perpendicular cliffs and over precipitous snow-
fields. This difficult part of the route takes liV2 hrs., and Macugnaga
(p. 329) is reached in 2 hrs. more. — The Old Weissthor (11,730'), be-
tween the Cima di .Jazzi and the Fillarkiippi' (12,070'), one of the most
difficult of Alpine passes, has of late years been crossed by Messrs. Schlag-
intweit, Tyndall, Tuckett, and other mountaineers. Several different
routes : to the N. is the Jazzi Pass, close by the Cima di Jazzi ; to the
S. of it, on the Weissgrat, is the Jazzikopf, with the couloirs descending
from it; then the Old Weissthor proper ('?), immediately to the N. of the
Fillarkuppe. Between the Fillarkuppe and the Jdgerhorn is the Fillar
328 Route 8(i. PONTEGRANDE.
rats (about 11,800'), and between tlic Jiigerborn and the Nordend is the
Jdgerjoch (about 12,8C)0'). Descent from all these to the Jazzi Glacier exceed-
ingly steep, and dangerous owing to falling stones. — To Saas over the
Schwarzberg-Weissthor, see p. 331.
Passes. To Zinal over the Triftjoch (11,614'; guide 30 fr.), difficult,
see p. 316; over the Col Duvand (11,398'; 30fr.), less difficult, but longer,
see p. 316; over the Morning Pass (12,44,'j'; 30 fr.) and the Schallijoch
(12,307'), both very difficult, see p. 316. — To Evolena in the Val d'Hcrens
over the Col d^Ilirens (11,417'; 35 fr.), less trying from this side than from
Evolena, see p. 313. To Arolla over the Col de Bertol (10,800'; 30 fr.),
laborious, see p. 312; over the Col de Valpelline and Col du Mont BriUi
(10,397'; 30fr.), see p. 312. — To Cheumontane over the Col de Valpel-
line, Col du Mont BriiU, Col de VEvi'que, and Col de Cher montane (the
'High-level Route'; 30fr.), a long day's journey. To Valpeluna over the
Col de Valpelline (11,685'; guide 30 fr.), see p. 278. All these routes are
much facilitated by spending a night at the Club-hut on the Stockje (p. 313).
— To Chatillon in the Aosta Valley over the Thiodule Pass (10,900'), easy;
guide to Breuil 15 fr.; see p. 321. — The Schwarzthor, Lysjoch, and Weissthor,
see p. 327. — To the Saas Vallet four glacier-passes : the Scliwarz-
herg-Weissthor (11,850'; guide 25 fr.); Adler Pass (12,460'), Allalin Pass
(11,713'), and Alphubel-Joch (12,475') ; for each, guide 30 fr. (comp. p. 331, 332).
86. From Piedimulera to Macugnaga, and over
the Moro Pass to Saas and Visp.
Comp. Maps, pp. SOS, 322, 298.
19-20 hrs. From Piedimulera (p. 301) to Macugnaga 67i hrs. (to Ponte-
grande 2 M., Vanzone Y4, Ceppomorelli 1 M. ; Prequartero '/sj Pestarena
IV4, Borca ^/-i, Macugnaga 1/2 hr.) ; back in 5 hrs. (to Vanzone 31/21 Pie-
dimulera IV2 hrs.). Carriage- road as far as Ceppomorelli. From Ma-
cugnaga to the Moro Pass 4, descent to Saas 4'/2, to Visp 472 hrs. (In
the reverse direction: from Visp to Stalden I3/4 hr., Balen 3, Saas 1, Al-
magell 1, Im Lerch l'/2, Mattmark 1, Distelalp 'Ai Moro Pass 2, descent to
Macugnaga 3 hrs.). — Guide unnecessary, except for the Moro Pass (from
Macugnaga to the Mattmarkalp 12, to the Thiiliboden 8 fr.). In the reverse
direction it is advisable to engage a guide at Saas, as guides are seldom
found at Mattmark (from Saas by Fee to Mattmark, and to Macugnaga
next day, 15 fr.). Horse from Visp to Saas 20, from Saas to the Mattmark
10 fr. ; one-horse carriage from Piedimulera to Ceppomorelli 10-12 fr. ; from
Ceppomorelli to Vogogna 12, Domo d'Ossola 15, Premia 25 fr.
The Moro Pass was the usual Alpine bridle-path from the Valais to Italy
before the construction of the Simplon road, but is now frequented by
pedestrians only. Its great attraction consists in the immediate proximity
of Monte Rosa, especially near Macugnaga, and the views will compare
with the finest in the Chamonix region and in the Bernese Oberland. Tra-
vellers coming from Visp had better spend the night at the Mattmark
inn, as they will then be able to reach the Moro Pass before the noon-
day mists rising from the valleys obscure the view.
Piedimulera (795'), see p. 301. The road ascends the *'Val
d'Anzasca, passes through two tunnels, and skirts fertile and vine-
clad slopes overlooking the Anza. Charming and varied views.
11/2 M. Gozzi di Sotlo (1280') belongs to Cimamulera, which lies
ahove, to the right. We obtain a temporary glimpse of the Monte
Rosa group shortly before we reach (IV2 ^0 ^^^ considerable vil-
lage of Castiglione d'Ossola (1685'). Near (I1/2 M.) Calasca , with
the pretty Anirogna Fall (to the right) the road descends to the
Anza. Near (IY2 M.) Fontegrande {Hot, du Grand Pont, clean),
MACUGNAGA. S6. Route. 329
where Monte Rosa again becomes visible, tlie stream descending
from the Val Bianca forms a waterfall. On the hill opposite, on the
right bank of tlie Anza, lies Bannio (2237' ; Osteria del Pino, very
plain). (Over the Col di Baranca to Fobello , and over the Col
d''Egua to Carcoforo, see p. 439.)
The road ascends past S. Carlo (1890'), with its large church,
near which are some gold-mines worked by an English company,
to (21/4 M.) Vanzone (2220' ; pop. 470 ; Alh. del Cacciatori del Monte
Rosa, plain ; Ristor. delle Aipi), the chief village in the valley. The
(1/4 hr.) chapel commands a superb view of Monte Rosa. The road
ends at (3 M.) Ceppomorelli (2427'; *Hot. des Alpes , R. & A. 2,
B. 1-1 V2 fi'-i Mondo d'Oro), where the bridle-path begins (mule
to Macugnaga 10 fr.). Near (20 min.) Prequartero a path diverging
to the right crosses the Mondelli Pass (9320') to the Saas Valley
(p. 330), but commands no view of Monte Rosa. Near (20 min.)
Campioli the path crosses the Anza, ascends the rather steep hill
to (IY2 M.) the hamlet of Morghen (auberge), and again descends
to the stream. Near Pestarena we keep to the right where the path
divides.
At (i/ohr.) Pestarena (^Albergo delle Alpi, well spoken of; Alb.
del Minieri, plain) are gold-mines. Near (25 min.) Borca (3945';
Fiaschctteria Toscana), the first village where German is spoken, a
tine waterfall descends from the Val Quarazza on the left (p. 333),
and a little farther on Monte Rosa is fully revealed for the first time.
The parish of Macugnaga consists of six different villages:
Borca, In der Stapf (or Staff a^, Zum Strich (or Pratti), Auf der
Rive (or Rippa^, Das Dorf (or La Villa), and Zertannen (or Peccetto).
.Staffa lies I'^fiM. from Borca; the other villages are only a few
minutes' walk apart. The hamlet Zum Strich is generally named
Macugnaga{i3bS'; *H6t. Monte Rosa, R. & A.3,B. 1V2,I>- ^^^-S fr.;
*H6t. Monte Mora, same charges; Osteria del Belvedere, plain, next
the post-office). The village is situated in a pleasant grassy dale,
enclosed by a majestic ampitheatre of snow-clad mountains : (1.) the
four peaks of Monte Rosa: Signalkuppe (Punta Onifetti; 14,965'),
Zumsteinspitze (15,005'), Hochste (or Dufour) Spitze (^16, 217'), and
Nord-End (15,132'); then the Jdgerhorn (13,042'), Fillarkuppe
(12,070'), Old Wemt/ior (11,730'), Cima di Jazzi (12, b2b'), New
Weissthor (11,800'), Schicarzberg-Weissthor (11,850'), Rofelhorner
(11,422'), Rothhorn (10,620'), and Faderhorn (10,548'). The church
of the old 'village' (the greater part of which was buried by a
landslip), built In the 16th cent., with the old communal linden-
tree, is worth a visit (10 min. from the Hot. Monte Rosa). Among
the Interesting tomb-stones are those of the guides Imseng and
Pedranzini, who perished on Monte Rosa in 1881 with D. Marinelli.
ExcDRSiONs. (Guides, Alois and Kasper liurgcncr, Clemens Imseng,
Aless. Corsi, Peter and Matt. Zurhriggen, Liiigi del Ponte, etc.). From the
(2 hrs.) -Belvedere (6338'), above Jfacusnaga, to the W., this amphitheatre
is surveyed at a glance from summit to base; and the view embraces the
330 Route 86. MORO PASS. From Piedimulera
parish of Macugnaga with its pastures and fields, the larch-forest on the
right side, and the grassy slopes above them. Guide hardly necessary.
From the hotels we pass the old church of Macugnaga (p. 329) , and pro-
ceed in the direction of tlie church of the uppermost hamlet of Zertannen
or Peccetto, where a guide-post directs us to the right to the Weissthor and
to the left to the Belvedere. In about 1/4 hr. we cross the Anza, and after
10 min, walking over loose stones, a second bridge, and then follow a good
path through bushes and pastures to the woodclad hill, which separates
the two tongues of the Macugnaga Glacier (last ^/i hr. steep). — Ovek
THE Macugnaga Glacier to the Petriolo Alp (there and back 6 hrs.;
guide 6 fr.), repaying. About '/■i ^^- above Zertannen we ascend to the
right (leaving the Belvedere path on the left), over the Roffelstaffel Alp
(where the route to the New Weissthor [diverges to the right), to the
Jazzi-Alp; then past the Fillar Alp (above which to the right is the Castel-
franco Glacier, crossed on the way to the Old Weissthor) to the Macugnaga
Glacier, and across the latter (superb view) to the (3 hrs.) Petriolo -Alp
(6952'; milk); we return either by the high-lying Crosa Alp, or by a shorter
route across the glacier, the S. arm of which is called the Petriolo Glacier,
passing the Belvedere (p. 329).
Pizzo Bianco (10,190'; 5-6 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), a splendid point of view,
fatiguing but without danger; last hour over steep snow.
Monte Rosa, Ilocliste or Di/fourspitze (15,217'), very difficult and dan-
gerous from Macugnaga (first time, 1872). The night is spent in the (7 hrs.)
Capanna Marinelli of the l.A.C. (10 168') on the Jagerriicken. Thence to
the Dufourspitze about 9 hrs. (p. 326).
To Zekmatt over the New Weissthor (11,800'; guide 30, porter 15 fr.;
10-12 hrs. from Macugnaga to the Riffel Inn, p. 323), a grand route for
adepts with good guides , without- danger or serious difficulty. From
this side, however, owing to the steepness of the ascent, the route is
much more fatiguing and takes 1 hv. longer than from Zermatt. The Olu
Weissthor (11,730'), very difficult, and not without risk, is better from
this side than from Zermatt; see p. 327.
From Macugnaga to Alagna over the Col del Turlo or the Col delle
Loccie, see p. 335'; to Carcoforo over the Col delta Moriana or the Col
delta BoUiglia, see p. 439; to Rima by the Col del Piccolo Altare, see p. 439.
T he path to the More Pass leads to the old church (see ahove),
and then ascends to the right through larch-wood, over stony pastures,
past the Galkerne Alp (6890'; milk), and lastly over rock and a
shelving patch of snow. The (4 hrs. j *Moro Pass (9390'1, hetween
(1.) Monte Moro (9803') and (r.) the St. Joderhorn (9972'), affords
an admirable survey of the grand Monte Rosa group to the S.W.,
flanked by (1.) the Funta delle Loccie, Pizzo Bianco, and Faller-
horn, and (r.) the Fillarkuppe, Old Weissthor, Cima di Jazzi, and
Rofelhorner ; to the N. are the valley of Saas and the Mischabel, with
the Bietschhorn in the background.
The St. Joderhorn (9972'), to the E. of the pass, a still finer point of
view, may be ascended without difficulty in V4 br.
We descend by the side of the Thdlliboden Glacier by rude steps
of rock, the remains of the old bridle path, to the (2/4 hr.) Thdlli-
boden (8190' ), a small moss-grown plain at the foot of the glacier,
where the route from the MondelU Pms (p. 3*29) comes down on the
right. Towards the N.W.the MischabelhiJrner (Dom and Tiischhorn)
are revealed; nearer are the Allalinhorn, Innere Thurni,and Strahl-
horn. Crossing the ThalUhach (above, to the left, the Seewinen
Glacier), we next reach (3/4 hr.) the chalets of the Distelalp (7190')
and the ('/•> hr.) Hotel Mattmark (6965'; homely, R. & A. 31/2,
to Vhp. MATTMARK ALL'. 86. Route. 331
P. 4 I'r.) on the Mattmark Alp, 10 inin. from the upper end of the
light-green little Ma^marfciafec (6965'). Down to 1818 the iScftwarz-
herg Glacier extended across the bed of the lalce, but afterwards re-
ceded, leaving behind it its moraines and a huge blocli of serpen-
tine called the Blaue Stein to mark its former extent. It is now
only visible high up above the clilfs.
From Mattmark to Anlrorici (and Domo d'Ossola) over the Antigine or
Ofenthal Pass, see p. 301. — The Stellihorn (11,393'), ascended from the
Mattmark Inn by the Ofenthal in 4V2 hrs. (not difficult; guide 6 fr.), affords
an imposing view of the Eastern Alps.
Glacier Passes to Zermatt, for mountaineers, with good guides:
The Schwarzberg-Weissthor (11,850'; 10 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.). The route
skirts the left side of the Scfiicarzbery Glacier, ascending rock and moraine,
and crossing the crevassed glacier to the (4-5 hrs.) pass, lying fo the S. of
the Strahlfiorn. (The Jfew Weisst/ior, leading from Zermatt to Macugnaga
lies farther S. ; comp. p. 327.) From this point to the Riffel, see p. 325.
The Adler Pass (12,460'; 11-12 hrs.; guide 30 fr.). From the inn we
cross the Thiillibach to the chalets of the Matimark Alp, and ascend ra-
pidly below the Schwarzherg Glacier (see above) and past the Schwarzen-
berg Chalets (7798'). In 2 hrs. we reach the AUalin Glacier at a height of
9433', and ascend on its E. margin to the ('/a hr.) Aeu.isere Thiirm (9947')
and (3/4 hr.) the Innere Thttrm (10,880'). We now turn to the W., to the
middle of the glacier, where the route divides. To the right, crossing in
the direction of the Allalinhorn (13,235'), is the route to the AUalin Pass
(see below), while we ascend steeply in a straight direction to the (2-3 hrs.)
Adler Pass, between (1.) the Strahlhorn (13,752'; from the pass in IV2 hr.)
and (r.) the Rimpfischhorn (13,790'). The view of Jlonte Rosa and the Mat-
terhorn is very striking, but the view to the N. and K.W. is shut out by
the Rimpfischhorn. Descent across the Adler Glacier to the foot of the
Rimpfischwange, difficult in certain states of the snow ; we then skirt the
latter, crossing rock and moraine, and next traverse the Findelen Glacier
to the (3 hrs.) Fluh-Alp (8570'), 2y-i hrs. from Zermatt (p. 315). — Hr. v.
Grote (p. 323), a Russian traveller, lost his life in 1859 by falling into a
crevasse of the Findelen Glacier.
The AUalin or Tasch Pass (11,713'; 10-12 hrs.; guide 30 fr.) is some-
times impracticable owing to the crevasses of the upper AUalin Glacier.
From the Innnere Thurm (see above) to the top 2 hrs.; descent over the Mel-
lichen Glacier, and along the N. base of a ridge separating the latter from
the Wand Glacier, to the Mellichen Valley. Thence to Zermatt, p. 333.
Below the Mattmark Lake, from which the Saaser Visp issues, the
superb AUalin Glacier, descends to the valley. The moraine contains
blocks of 'gabbro' , mingled with smaragdite , like those common
in W. Switzerland , but hitherto found nowhere attached to the soil
except on the Saasgrat ; whence geologists infer that the glaciers
of this region once extended to the Jura.
The path descends from the N. end of the lake over the de'bris
of a moraine , past the chapel of Im Lerch (6378') , to the stony
Eyenalp, looking back from which we enjoy a last view of the AUa-
lin Glacier in all its grandeur, and (l'/2 1'^.) Zermeiggern (5630'),
with its pleasant pastures , at the influx of the Furgghach into the
Visp. To the left, high above us, is the glittering snow of the
Allalinhorn (p. 3.32). By the (1/4 hr.) church of Almagell (5508';
where the path from the Antrona Pass descends on the right, p. 301 )
a direct path to (2/4 hr.) Fee (p. 332) crosses the Visp to the left. On
the right the Alrnagellbach forms a grand waterfall.
332 Route 86. SAAS. From Piedhnulera
1 hr, SaaB im Grund (^5125'; *IJ6t. Monte Mow, K., L., & A.
3, D. 4, pens. 6 fr.), the principal place in the valley. Eng. Ch.
Service in summer in St. Augustine's Church, adjoining the hotel.
A bridle-path leads from Saas to theW., crossing the Visp and ascend-
ing through wood, past tlie chapel of St. Joseph, to (3/4 hr.) Fee (5900';
"Hdt.-Pens. dii D8me; Grand-Hdt. Bellevue, R., L., & A. 41/2, lunch 3, 1). 5 fr. ;
both well adapted for a stay of some time), charmingly situated amidst
pastures, with a magnificent view of the Fee Glacier, environed by the
MiUatjhon), Egginerhorn, Allalinhorn, Alph»bel, Tdsrhhorn, Dom, Siid-Lenz-
tpitze, and Ulrichshorn in a wide amphitheatre. To the E. rise the Weissmies
with the Triftgrat, the Laqiiinhorti, and the Fletschhorn. Between the two arms
of the Fee Glacier lies the Gletscheralp (7008'; small restaurant), a pasture
once surrounded by the glacier (interesting; from Feel, to the Lange Flult
1 hr. more , see below). — A direct path leads from Fee to Almagell
(p. 331), so that the excursion forms but a short digression from the route
between Visp and Mattmark.
E,KcuBsioN.s AND Ascents. (Guides at Saas and Fee: Theodor, Adolph,
and JoJi. Peter Andenmatlen , Clem. Zurbriggen , Alois Imseng, Ambr.
Stipersax , J. M. Blumenthal.) Pleasant walks on the pastures and in the
wood near Fee, and in the romantic gorge of the Feekinn. The Gletscher-
alp and Lange Fluh, see above. The Plaffje (8458'), by the Gaden-Alp,
2 hrs., and the Hellig (8812'), by the Hannig-Alp, 2 hrs., are interesting and
not difficult (guide unnecessary). — The Triftalp (6S15'), I'/z hi"- above
Saas, on the E. side of the valley, aftbrds an excellent survey of the Saas-
grat from Mte. Moro to the Balfrin. — Mittaghorn (10,328'; 4 hrs.; guide
8fr.), a splendid point of view, free from difficulty — Egginerhorn (11,080';
5 hrs.; 12 fr.), also very interesting and not difficult. — Allalinhorn (13,235';
6 hrs.; 30 fr.), trying, but without difficulty for experts. Above the (2 hrs.)
Lange Fltth we diverge to the left from the Alphubel route and ascend to
the (3V2 hrs.) saddle (12,505') and to the left to the (V2 hr.) summit
(magnificent view). — The Alphubel (13,802'), Taschhorn (14,757'), Dom
(14,940'), and Nadelhorn {West-Lenzspitze . 14,220') may also be ascended
from Fee by experts (see above). — Ulrichshorn (12,892'), from the Ried Pass
(see below) 1 hr. (or from Fee 6 hrs.; guide 30 fr.), and Balfrin (Balen-
firnhorn, 12,475'), from Saas up the Bider Glacier and Balenfirn 6 hrs., or
"from the Ried Pass (p. 333) 3/4 hr. (guide 25 fr.), both without difficulty. —
Stellihorn (11,393'), by the Mattmark -Alp (7 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), see
p. 331. — Sonnighorn, or Pizzo Bottarello (11,467'), by the Fta-gg Alp
(7 hrs.; guide 20 fr.), toilsome; magnificent view. — Latelhorn (10,525';
51/2-6 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), not difficult, repaying. Bridle-path through the
Furgglhal to the (4 hrs.) Anirona Pass (p. 301); thence to the left to the
(IV2 hr.) summit; extensive view. — Weissmies (13,225'), up the T7'i/t-
grdtli and Trift Glacier (8-10 hrs.; guide 30 fr.), laborious, but without
danger; view exceedingly grand. Better to ascend by the Almageller Alp
(7175'; clean chalets ; spend night) to the Zwisdibergen Pass (p. 300), and
thence by the S. arete to the top; then descend across the Trift Glacier.
FitoM Saas to Zermatt by the Weisstlior, Adler, or Allalin Pass,\).'6'ii.
The Alphubeljoch (12,475'; 12hrs. to Zermatt; guide 30 fr.) is longer,
but less difficult and much finer than the passes just mentioned. From
Fee 1 hr. to the Gletscher-Alp (7008'); then a steep ascent to the (Ihr.)
Lange Fluli, a ridge of rock across which we climb. In 1 hr. we reach the
glacier, at a height of about 9200', and ascend it rather rapidly, the very
wide crevasses necessitating many digressions. Farther on we ascend
gradually over snow to the (3 hrs.) pass, between (r.) the Alphubel (13,803')
and (1-) the Allalinhorn (13,235'), and obtain a splendid view of the Matter-
horn, Weisshorn, etc. Descent over the Wand Glacier, and then over rock,
moraine, and turf to the Obere and (3 hrs.) Untere Tasch Alp (7270) in the
MelUchen Valley. A direct but disagreeable forest-path leading hence to the
left, round the slope, descends to Zermatt in IV2 hr. ; but it is better to
descend to Tasch (p. 320) and follow the road thence to (4 M.) Zertnatt.
From Saas to Zermatt over the Mischabeljoch (12,650'; 13 hrs.; guide
35 fr.), between the Taschhorn and Alphubel; over the Domjoch (14,062';
to Visp. SAAS. fin. rioutf. 333
14hrs.; 40 fr.), between the Tiisehhorn and Dom ; over the Nadeljoch
(13,672'; 16 hrs.-, 40 fr.), between the Dom and the Svid-Lenzspitze; all very
diflicult.
From Saas to St. Niklaus over the Ried Pass (12,050'; 12-13 hrs.;
guide 25 fr.), difficult. The route leads from Fee (p. 331) to the Alp Han-
nig (7064') and ascends steeply, to the left of the Mellig, over the Hochbalen
Glacier and the rocks of the Gemshora to the pass, between (r.) the Bal-
frin (12.475') and (1.) the Ulrichshorn (12,893'), both of which may be as-
cended from the pass (p. 332). Descent over the Gassenried Glacier to the
Sckalpel Alp, and by Hollencn to St. Mkiaus {p. 320).
From Saas to the Simplon over the Laquiiijoch, the Rossbodenjoch, the
Simeli Pass, or the Gamserjoch and Sirvoltenjoch. see p. 299. To Gondo over
the Zwiscbbergeti Pass, p. 300. To Domo d'Ossola l)y the Antrona Pass, p. 301.
Below Saas is a defile between wild masses of rock, in which
lies the chapel oi St. Anton (5117'). Crossing the Visp we reach
the village oi (^/i hr.} Balen (5027'), in a fertile valley at the E.
base of the Balfrin or Balenfirnhorn (12,475'), and then (20 min.)
recross the stream. Farther on we pass a fine waterfall of the Schwei-
bach, descending from the Balenfirn, and (20 min.) return by the
Bodenbrilcke to the left bank. The ravine presents a succession of
wild rocky scenes, enlivened with foaming waterfalls. Numerous
votive crosses, bearing a date only , have been erected here in
the pious hope of averting inundations of the Mattmark Lake. At
the (10 min.) Hutegg is a small auberge ; 20 min., village of Zen-
schmiden (3777'). Near Stalden the Saaser Visp falls into the Gorn-
er Viap (see below), which we cross by the Kinnbrilcke, a bridge 160'
higli. On the hill to the right is the small church of Slaldenried.
(1 hr.) Stalden, and thence to Visp, see p. 319. Travellers
from Stalden to Saas should observe that after crossing the Kinn-
briicke their path leads to the left beyond two chalets. — Between
Stalden and Zermatt, a footpath (saving 1 hr.) diverges to the left,
just when we come in sight of Stalden, and beyond a spot where
the path is supported by masonry, and leads to the bridge in the
St. Nicolai Valley, 1 hr. to the S. of Stalden (p. 320).
87. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa.
Four Days: 1st. Over the Tiirlo Pass to AUigna. 2nd. Over the Col
d'Olen to Gressoney-la-Triniti, 3rd. Over the Bettaforca to Fiiry, and ovei'
the Col des Cimes Blanches to the Thiodule Pass. 4th. Ascent of the Breii-
horii , and descent to Zermatt. (Or: 1st day, to Riva; 2nd, over the Col
di Valdobbia to Gressone>/-St-Jean; 3rd, over the Col de Ciaiiaz to Fiiry ;
4th, over the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt.) Guide 8-10 fr. per day; for the
whole journey including the Breithorn .50 fr. (The paths over the Col
di Valdobbia, Bettaforca and Col des Cimes Blanches are also prac-
ticable for mules.) Less robust walkers who wish to avoid the Turlo Pass
may from Pontegrande (p. 328) cross the Col di Baranca to Fobello and
Varallo, and reach Alagna thence through the Fni (SesiVj in 2-3 days, an easy
route (comp. p. 439).
From Macugnaga to Alagna over the Turlo Pass, 8-9 hrs. ,
fatiguing and not very interesting. Below Macugnaga (1/4 hr.) we
quit the path to Borca (p. 329), cross the Anza to the hamlet of
Isella, and ascend a wooded hill to the (1 hr.) chalets of .Spissa, at
the entrance to the rock-strewn V<il Qwirazzn. which we enter to
334 Routes:. TURLO PASS. From Mncugnagn
the right. The slopes are wooded, and several waterfalls are pass-
ed on each side. The path, at first level, afterwards ascends a
rocky barrier, and (1 hr. ) crosses to the right bank of the stream
to ('/a ^r.) La Plana, the highest alp (5978'). Opposite, on the
W. side of the valley, the discharge of the Loccie Glacier forms a
very line waterfall (La Pissa). Ascending more rapidly , the path
describes a wide bend round the desolate head of the valley, passes
(3/4 hr.) a ruined hut (6560'), and comes to an end. We next climb
abrupt grass-slopes, and lastly rocks and snow-slopes, to the (2 hrs.)
Turlo Pass (9090'), a sharp ridge with a cross, between (r.) the
FalUrhorn (10,300') and (1.) the Piglimohorn (9470'J. Descend-
ing over an expanse of snow and poor stony pastures , we enjoy a
fine view of the Sesia Glacier , the Signalkuppe , and the Parrot-
Spitze. We pass the small Turlo Lakes and the Alp Faller, and
descend to the Alp lazza and the Val Sesia (21/2-3 hrs. to the Sesia
bridge). A good path now leads on the right bank of the stream, past
the deserted gold-mine of S.Maria Maddalena to (2/4 hr.) Alagna
(3953'; *H6t. Monte Rosa, moderate; Hot. Weisshorn, well spoken
of), prettily situated, and frequented by Italians as a summer resort.
Fkom Macugnaga to Alagna over the CoUe dalle loccie (11,965'), 14-15
hrs., difficult; for proficients only, with good guides (40 fr.). A toilsome
and even hazardous climb of 8-10 hrs., over the Pelriolo Alp (p. 330) and
the crevassed Macugnaga Glacier, to the pass between Pvnta delle Loccie
and the Cima della Pissa (12,475'). Descent over the Vigne Glacier to the
Vigne-Alp and Pile Alp (see below).
ExcuKsiONS (guides, G. Barone , G. and P. Guglielmina , C. Martinali
and others.) Up the Val Sesia to the (2 hrs.) "Pile Alp (5300'; superb
survey of the S.E. peaks of Monte Rosa); then to the (3/4 hr.) Alp Bors and
(Vz hr.) Alp Decco. (Over the Col delle Pisse to Gressoney, p. 335.) —
The Corno Bianco (10,945'; 5-6 hrs.; 12 fr.), a difficult peak, with fine view of
Monte Rosa and the Graian Alps, is ascended either from Alagna or Gress-
onev. — Towards the E., two passes lead from Alagna to (7-8 hrs.) Rimasco
in the Val Piccula (p. 439) : the Colle Moud (7447') to the N. of the Taglia-
ferro (9731'), and the Bocchetta Moanda (7935') on its S. side. — To Zermalt
over the Lysjoch , the Sesia-Joch and the Piodejoch, see p. 327. — From
Alagna to MoUia and Varallo, see p. 439.
From Alagna to Gubssoney-la-Tbinite over thb Col d'Ol-
BN, 6'/2-7hrs., attractive and easy (bridle-path; guide, 14 fr.,
unnecessary, but enquire for the beginning of the path). We as-
cend to the W. through meadows and wood, passing several groups
of houses, to the (2 hrs.) Alp Seon or Laglietto, cross the brook, and
mount pastures and afterwards over debris to the (2'/.2 hrs.) Colle
d'Olen (9544'; * Guglielmina s Jnn). View towards the N.W. very
tine. The *Gemsstein, or Corno del Camoscio (9928'), to the N.,
easily ascended from the pass in 25 min., affords a striking view of
Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin, the Graian Alps, etc.
— We descend from the Col by a good path, to the Gabiet-Alp with
its little lake, into the Val Gressoney or Lysthal, to (2 hrs.) Orsia
(5740') and (20 min.) Gressoney-la-Trinite, Ger. Olerieil (5338';
*Holel Thedy, R. 2, D., incl. wine, 4, pens. 71/2 fr.)- ^ cart-road
descends the picturesque valley by Castell, Perletoa, and Chemonal
to Zermntt. GRESSONEY. .97. Route. 335
to (31/2 M.) Gressoney- Saint- Jean (4495'; *mt. T)e In Pierre, R. &
A. 21/2, pens. 8I/2 fr-; Hut.-Pens. Mont-Rose), the capital of the
valley, the upper part of which is German.
FromAlagna toGeessonet over theCoUe dellePisse (10,374'j, 9-lOhrs.,
rather fatiguing. The route leads via the S/offel-Alp and the Bocchetta
della Plsse (.7877'), round the N. side of the Corno del Camoscio (p. 334),
into the Bcrs Valley (to the right the Bors Glacier, with a line waterfall),
and thence in 5-6 hrs. to the pass, with the ruined Vincenz-HUtte. (Hence
to the Col d'Olen, 1 hr.; to the Gnifetti Club-hut over the Indren and
Qarstelet Glaciers 2 hrs., see p. 327.) Descent by a good path to the left
through the Mos Valley to the Gabiet-Alp and (3V2 hrs.) Gressoney -la -
Trinite (p. 334).
An easier route is across the Col di Valdobbia (83G0'), from Riva (2 JI.
below Alagna, p. 439) to Gressoney-St. Jean (7 hrs.; guide 14 fr.). A road
ascends the Val Vogna by the ('/2 br.J Ca" di Junto (4593'; *Alb. <fe Pens.
Alpina), to (3 M.) Peccia (5023'), whence the bridle-path mounts steeply to
the right to the (2 hrs.) the Ospizio So/ tile on the col. The view is limited,
but we enjoy a charming survey of the Val Gressoney with its rich pas-
tures, pine -clad slopes, and waterfalls. Steep descent over snow and
stones, then through pine-forest, to (I'/zhr.) Gressoney-St. Jean.
Excursions from Gressoney (guides, Alexander Wolf, Felix Ponzio).
Beautiful walk from Trinite, up the valley, by Orsia and Dejola, to the
(l'/4 hr.) Cortlis (6570'), a chalet splendidly situated at the foot of the
Lys Glacier (p. 327). — The I. A. C. has built three club -huts, for the
use of travellers in this district. The Linty Hut (10,300'; very small,
4 beds), 3 hrs. from Cortlis, lies 1 hr. from the top of the Hohe Licht
(11,635'), and 4 hr.s. from the top of the Vincent Pvramide (13,920'). — From
the Gnifetti Hut (13,045'), at the W. side of the" Garslelet Glacier, 5 hrs.
from Cortlis and 3 hrs. from the Col d'Olen , the Vincent Pyramide may
be ascended in 2 hrs., the Parrot-S])itze (14,577'; guide 30 fr.) in 3 hrs.",
the Signalkuppe {Punta Gnifetti; 14,965'; guide 35 fr.) in 4'/2 hrs., and
the Zumslein-Spitze (15,005'; guide 35 fr.) in 4'/2 hrs. The last two as-
cents may be combined in one tour. The Dufourspitze (15,217') was ascen-
ded on this side for the first time in Aug. 1886. — The Q,uintino Sella
or Lyskamm Hut (14,905') nn the rocks on the W. side of the Felik
Glacier. 3 hrs. below the Felikjoch (p. 327) and 5 hrs. from Cortlis, is the
starting-point for the ascent of the Lvskainm (14,890'; 6 hrs.; 50 fr.) and
of the Castor (13,880'; 3V2 hrs.; 30 fr.). The descent from the latter may
be made to the Theodule Pass (p. 321) and Breuil (guide 40 fr.) or Zermatt
(50 fr.).
From Gressoney to Zermatt over the Lysjoch, Felikjoch, ZwilUngs-Pass,
or Schwarzthor, see p. 327. Guide in each case 50 fr.
A bridle-path (road being made) leads from Gressoney-St. Jean through
the beautiful Lysthal to Gaby, Issime ("Posta) , Fontainemore , Lillianes,
and (6 hrs.) Pont- St. Martin (p. 279: horses, etc. at Giacomo Beata's). —
To the W. an easy bridle-path leads from St. Jean in 4 hrs. over the Col
della Ranzola (7182') to Briisson (p. 336) in the Challant Valley, and in
4 hrs. more over the Col de Joux to St. Vincent and Chdtillon (p. 278;
attractive view of the Aosta valley as we descend). — Two very attractive
ascents are those of the Mont faille (7935'), in 1 hr. from the Ranzola
Pass, SiXiA oiiXit Punta Frudieva {iO,TiQ'), rising farther to the S., between
the Gressoney and Challant valleys (6-7 hrs. from Gressoney, guide 12 fr.).
ilagnilicent view.
From Gressoney - la - Trinite to Fiery over the Bbtta-
FORCA, 5 hrs., pleasant and easy (without guide). At (20 min.')
Orsia (p. 334) we diverge to the left , (5 min.) cross the Lys.,
and mount rapidly past the houses of Betta to (1 hr.) the chapel
of St. Anna (7120'), where we have a tine view of the Lyskamm and
Monte Rosa. Then up a monotonous valley (keeping to the right)
336 Route 87. COL DES CIMES BLANCHES.
past the Sitten Alp, to the (i^Ji hr.) Colle di Bettaforca (^8640'),
where we see the Graian Alps peeping above the Val d'Ayas, and
the Grand Combin to the right. We descend (still to the right)
to (1 hr.) the hamlet of Resy (6580'; plain inn), turn to the right,
and cross the Verra to (1/9 hr.) Fiery or Fiere (6160' ; *//o<. des
Cimes Blanches , plain) , on the slope 20 min. above S. Giacomo
(5500'), overlooking the wooded Val d'Ayas.
A longer but more interesting route leads over the Bettliner Pass
(Passo di BeUolina\, 9500') from Trinite to Fiery in GV4 hrs. From
(13/4 hr ) Cortlis we ascend to the left vifi the Bettolina Alp to the ("iVa hrs.)
pass, which commands a line view of Monte Rosa. The descent leads
round the W. slopes of the Monte BMolina (9830') to the Bettaforca route
which it follows to (2 hrs) Fiiry (see al>ove).
From 6ressoney-St. Jean to Fiery over the Pinter Joch (8200'), G hrs.,
easy and repaying. From the pass (extensive view) experts may ascend the
" Qraiihaiipt (Testa Grigia; 10,702'; toilsome) in 2 hrs. ; view strikingly grand.
A cart-road descends the picturesque Val d'Ayas (called Val Challant in
its lower part), watered by the £!ven(on, to C/iamplan, (3 hrs.) Bn/sxon
(4520'; Lion d'Or), and (3 hrs.) Verr^s, in the Dora Valley (p. 279).
From Fiery to Brbuil, or to thb Thbobulb Pass, over thh
Col DBS Cimes Blanchbs. To Breuil a rough mule-tiack (5 hrs.,
guide advisable). It ascends at first rapidly through wood , then
beyond the Alp Aventina traverses poor pastures and a dreary valley,
with the Aventina Olacier on the right, to (2 hrs.) Varda, the last
alp. Then a steep ascent, crossing (V2 hr.) a brook descending
from the right, and in '/2 ^^- more the Cortoz, which flows out of the
Grand Lac (where the path to the Theodule diverges to the right,
see below), and through a rocky chaos to the right of the small
Lacs de Vent, to the (1/2 ^r.) Col des Cimes Blanches (9912'),
with a fine view of the Matterhorn and Dent d'He'rens, to the N.E.
of the Gran Sometta (10,597'; a splendid point of view, easily
reached from the pass in ^/^ hr.). Then a descent over snow, stones,
and pastures, past the little Lacs de la Barmaz, to the chalets of
Goillet and La Barmaz; and lastly to the left to (IV2 hrs.) Breuii
(p. 321). — The route to Vallournanche diverges to the left from
the above route about 10 min. above the bridge over the Cortoz
(see above), and reaches the (12 min.) pass (9500') to the S. of the
Gran Sometta (see above ; still farther to the S. is a third pass
9298'). The route then descends, with a line view to the "W., to
the beautifully situated Alp Cleva Grossa (7352'), and to the left to
(2 hrs.) Valtournanche (p. 322).
Travellers bound for the Thbodule Pass and Zbrmatt need
not descend to Breuil, but (with guide) ascend on the right bank
of the Cortoz (see above), turn to the right, traverse rocks and stony
slopes, skirt the little Grand Lac (9135'), and reach the (3/4 hr.)
S. edge of the Valtournanche Glacier (10,125'). The crevassed
glacier is then crossed (rope advisable) , and lastly a steep snow-
slope ascended to the (IV2-2 hrs.) Theodule Pass. Ascent of the
Breithorn, see p. 325; route to Zermatt, see p. 321.
VI. S.E. SWITZERLAND. THE GRISONS.
88. From Rorschach to Coire 339
Alvier; Gontzen, 340. — St. Luziensteig; Falknis, 341.
89. Ragatz and Pfafers 341
Excursions from Ragatz : Guschenkopf; Piz Alun; Valena;
Vasannenkopf; Monte Luna; Graue Horner, 343, 344. —
From Ragatz to Reichenau over the Kunkels Pass, 344.
90. Coire 345
Excursions from Coire : Slittenberg; Schonegg; Spontis-
kopfe; Bad Passugg; Calanda, 347.
91. From Landquart to Schuls over the Fliiela Pass.
The Pratigau 347
Valzeina; Seewis; Scesaplana, 348. — Fideris. From Kiiblis
to theMoutavon. Serneus, 349. — Excursions from Klosters :
Vereina Pass ; Fless and Jiiri-FIess Passes; Vernela Pass;
Silvretta Pass, 350. — Schwarzhorn, 351.
92. From Davos to Coire via Leiiz (Landwasser Route) . 352
Excursions from Davos, 352. — From Davos to Scanfs
over the Scaletta Pass; to Bergiin over the Sertig Pass,
353. — Excursions from Wiesen, 354.
93. From Coire to Davos through the Schanflggthal. Arosa 355
From Langwies to Kiiblis over the Durannapass. Weiss-
fluh, 355. — Excursions from Arosa : Aroser Rothhorn.
From Arosa to Davos over the Meyenfeld Furca; to
Coire via Tschiertschen ; to Parpan over the Urden Fiirkli ;
to Alvaneu over the Furcletta, 356.
94. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp 357
From Reichenau to Ilanz via Versam and Kastris, c'57.
— ■ The Satierthal; over the Lochliberg to Spliigen, and
over the Glas Pass to Thusis, 358. — Flimserstein ;
Vorab, 358. — Piz Mundaun, 359. — Lugnetz- Valley ; passes
to Hinterrhein and the Val Blegno, 360. — Brigels;
Val Frisal; Val Puntaiglas ; the Somvixer Thai; over
the Lavazjoch to Curaglia, 361. — Excursions from Di-
sentis : Piz Muraun ; Sandalp Pass, 362, 363. — Piz Paz-
zola ; Val Nalps ; Kriizli Pass, 363. — Pass da Tiarms ;
Lake Toma; Badus; Piz Nurschallas ; Val Cornera, 864.
95. From Disentis to Biasca. The Lukmanier 365
ValCristallina,3G5. — Piz Cristallina ; PizMedel; Scopi;
Piz Rondadura, 366. — From Casaccia to Faido over the
Predelp Pass ; Passo Columbe, 366.
96. From Coire to Spliigen. Via Mala 367
Schyn-Strasse from Thusis toTiefenkasten,369. — Lake of
Liisch, 369. — Piz Beverin ; Piz Curver, 370. — Piz Vi-
zan; Piz la Tschera. From Andeer to Stalla through
the Ferrera and Averser Valleys. Forcellina and Duana
Passes, 371, 372. — From Caniciil to Pianazzo over the
Madesimo Pass. Gugsjerniill ; Einshorn ; Piz Tambo, 372.
97. From Splugen to tlie Lake of Como 373
98. From Spliigen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 375
Baeuekek, Switzerland. 13th Edition. '22
338 VI. THE GRISONS.
Source of the Hinter-Rhein, 375. — Rheinwaldhnrn, 176.
— From Cama to Chiavenna •, Val Calanca, 377.
99. From Coire to the Eugadine over the Albula Pass . 378
Piz St. Michel; Tinzenhorn ; Piz d'Aela, 378. — From
Bergiin to Madulein over the Fuorcla Pischa; Piz Kesch ;
Aela Pass, 379.
100. From Coire to the Engadine over the Julier . . . 380
Ohurer .Toch; Statzerhorn, 380. — Piz Carver; Fianell
Pass; Tinzenthor Pass; Errjoch ; Val da Faller; Piz
Platta, etc., 3S1,382. — From Stalla over the Septimer to
Casaccia in the Val Bregaglia; to Sils by Gravasalvas, 382.
101. The Upper Eugadine , from the Maloja to Samaden 384
Lake Cavloccio ; Orlegna Fall; Forno Glacier; Piz
Lunghino. From the Maloja over the Muretto Pass to
Sondrio; over the Casnile and Cacciabella Passci to
Bondo, 3S5. — MuotMarmore; Fe.x Valley; Piz Margna;
Piz Fora, etc From Sils to Malenco over the Tre-
moggia Pass or the Fuorcla Fex-Scerscen, 386, 387. —
Fuorcla Surlej ; Piz .Tulier, 388. — E.xcursions from
St. Moritz: Piz Nair; Val Suvretta, 390. — Excursions
from Samaden: Muottas Muraigl; Piz Ot; Piz Padella,
391.
102. Pontresina and Environs 392
Schluchtpromenade; Morteratsch and Roseg Glaciers,
393,394.— Schafberg; Muottas-Muraigl; Piz Languard,
396, 396. — Diavolezza Tour, 396. — Piz Rosatsch ; Chal-
chagn ; Surlej ; Corvatsch ; Morteratsch ; Chapiitschin ;
Tschierva; Sella; Gliischaint; Palii; Zupo ; Crastagiizza;
Bernina ; Roseg ; Scerscen, 397, 398. — From Pontresina
to the Fex Valley over the Fuorcla da Fex, the Chapiit-
schin Pass, or the Fuorcla Gliischaint, 398. — From
Pontresina to Sils; to Malenco over the Sella Pass or
the Bellavista Saddle; from Fellaria to the Bernina
Hospice over the Cambrena Pass ; to Poschiavo over the
Confinale or the Canciano Pass, 398, 399.
103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine . . . 399
MuntMiisella; Piz Uertsch ; Piz Kesch. From Ponte to
Livigno over the Lavirum Pass, 399. — Piz Griatschouls;
Piz Mezaun. From Scanfs to Livigno through the Val
Casana, 400. — Munt Baseglia; Piz d'Arpiglia ; Piz
Niina; Piz Sursura. From Zernetz over the Ofen Pass
to Miinster; over the Passo del Diavel to Livigno.
Piz Mezdi ; Piz Linard. Guarda, 400, 401. — Fettan ; Val
Tasna; Futschol Pass, 402. — Excursions from Tarasp :
Castle of Tarasp; Avrona; Schwarz-See; Sent; Val
d'Uina ; Muotta Naluns ; Piz Gliina ; Piz Champatsch ; Piz
Lischanna, 403, 404. — From Schuls through the Scarl
Valley to S. Maria, 404. — Piz Arina ; Fimber Pass, 405.
104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano, and
through the Valtellina to Colico 405
Val del Fain ; over the Fieno Pass to Livigno, 406. —
Piz Campascio; Piz Lagalb ; Alp Griim ; Sassal Masonc;
by Cavaglia to Poschiavo, 406,407. — Val Lagone; over
the Forcola to Livigno. From the Bernina through the
Val Viola to Bormio, 407. — Sassalbo, 408. — Corno
Stella; Val Malenco; Monte della Disgrazia, 409. —
Val Masino; Piz Badile, 410.
ST. MARGRETHEN. 88. Route. 339
105. From the Maloja to Chiavciina. Val Bregaglia . . 410
Val Bondasca; over the Forcella di Bondo to Masino.
Albigna Valley ; Forcella di S. Blartino ; Pizzo della
Duana, 411. — From Castasegna to Soglio ; Piz Galle-
gione, 412.
106. From Tiraiio to Nauders over the Stelvio 412
From Bormio to S. Caterina; Monfe Confinale. Over
the Foscagno Pass to Livigno, 413. — Wormser Joch •,
Piz Umbrail, 414. — Three Holy Springs ; Suldenthal ;
Ortler, 415, 416. — From Pradto S. Maria in the Miinster-
thal via Taufers and Miinster, 416.
107. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg .... 417
Liinersee ; Scesaplana, 418. — The Montavon ; over the
Vermunt Pass to Guarda, 419. — From Feldkirch to
Buchs. Gebhardsberg; Pfander, 420.
88. From Rorschach to Coire.
Comp. Maps, pp. 2S, 52, 3i4.
57 M. Railway in 3V4-4V2 hrs. (9fr. 75, 6fr. 85, 4fr. 90 c.; see lu-
trod. X. as to circular-tickets, etc.) There are two stations at Rorschach
(p. 50), the chief of which (-Restaurant) is on the quay in the town. The
other is V2 ^- to the E., where carriages are sometimes changed. The
first train from Rorschach corresponds with the first steamboat from Fried-
richshafen and Lindau ; and at Coire with the diligences for the Spliigen
and the Bernardino.
Rorschach, see p. 50. The train skirts the lake for a short way.
3 M. Stand. On the hillside to the right rises the castle of Wart-
egg If. 50) ; above it Wartensee (p. 52), and the small chateau of
Greifenstein. Heiden (p. 52) is seen on the hill to the right. Farther
on, we have a glimpse of the Weinhurg (p. 50), situated on the vine-
clad Buchberg. The train traverses a delta, very fertile at places,
which has been formed by the deposits of the Rhine.
6 M. Rheinegg (1320'; *Post'), a village at the foot of vineyards.
Omnibuses ply in 12 min. from the station to (I'A M.) Thai (1344';
Ochs), an industrial place with 3319 inhab., picturesquely situated at the
foot of the Biichherg (to the Steinerne Tisch , 25 min., see p. 50). — Di-
ligence from Rheinegg to Heiden, via Wolfhalden, twice daily in 1 hr.
4() min., see p. 53; to Walzenhausen, twice daily in 1 hr. 5 min., see p. 50.
At (9 M.l St. Margrethen (1330'; Linde; Ochs) the line to
Bregenz (p. 420) diverges to the left (to the Meldegg, 1 hr., see p. 50).
We now cross the Rhine, the boundary between Switzerland and
the Austrian Vorarlberg, by means of a timber-bridge. The Rhine
Valley, formerly called the Upper Rheingau, and, like Ticino and
Thurgau, governed down to 1798 by Swiss bailiffs, presents a
variety of grand and picturesque scenery. The train skirts the hill,
traverses orchards and fields of maize, and from Heldsberg to Mon-
stein passes between the river and abrupt rocks. Stations : Au (Schiff),
Heerbrugg, Rebstein.
16 M. Altstatten (1542'; pop. 8416; *Drei Kijnige, moderate;
Krone; Robe; Zum Spliigen, at the station). Through a gorge to
22*
340 Route 88. SAKGANS.
the right is seen the Seutis (p. 56); in the background to theH.
rises the snow-clad Scesaplana, and adjoining it the Falknis (p. 341).
Roads lead hence via the Landmark (3265'; inn) to (8 M.) Trogen, and
over the Sloss (3135') to (6 M.) Gais (p. 54) ; and a pleasant path in 3 hrs
by the Chapel of St. Anthony to Heiden (p. 52).
19'/2 M. Oberriet (Sonne). On the E. slope of a wooded rock
to the right, is the ruined tower of the castle of Blatten. The high-
road passes to theW. of the castle through the Hirschensprung defile,
above which tower the Kamor and Hohe Kasten (p. 55).
22 Y2M. Rilti (Zum Bahnhof). — 27 M. Saletz-Sennwald (*Restaur,
by the station).
The Hohe A'as/ere (5900'; 4'/zhrs.t, without guide), see p. 55. — To the
Weissbad (6 hrs.), a pleasant walk, by Sax and the Saxer Lucke (5430'),
passing the Fahlen and Siimtis lakes (comp. p. 57).
29 M. Haag-Gams (*Kreuz), where the line crosses the Toggen-
burg and Feldkirch road (p. 59). Above (31 M.) Buclis {^Zum Arl-
berg, Zum Bahnhof., both at the station) rises the well-preserved cha-
teaxi of Werdenberg , once the seat of the counts of that name.
Railway to Feldkirch, see p. 419. — On a height, on the opposite
bank of the Rhine, lies Vaduz (1525'; *Linde; Engel; Lowe), with the
white chateau of Liechtenstein on a lofty rock, the capital of the prin-
cipality of Liechtenstein, at the foot of the Drei Schwestern (6878').
Beyond the large village of (34V2 M.) Sevelen (*Traube) rises
the ruined chateau of Wartau (2185'). Near (39 M.) Triibbach
(1585') the rocks of the SchoUberg, which approach the Rhine, have
been blasted to make way for the road and the railway. On a height
opposite, near Balzers, is the extensive ruined castle of Gutten-
berg, where the ascent of the Luziensteig begins (see below).
The Alvier (7753'), an admirable point, ascended from Buchs, Sevelen,
or Triibbach in 5-5V2 hrs., see p. 46. The route from Triibbach is by Atz-
moos, Jifalans , and past the ruin of Wartau, to (3/4 hr.) Oberschan, and
(4V2 hrs.) the top ; descent 3 hrs. — The Gonzen (6014'), from Triibbach
in 4'/2 hrs., also easy and interesting.
42 M. Sargans (1590'; *Hdtel Thoma, at the station), the
junction of the Weesen (Glarus) and Ziirich line (p. 46). Carriages
sometimes changed here. The scenery becomes grander and more
picturesque; to the N.W. appears the long serrated chain of the
Curfirsten (p. 44), to the E. the grey pyramid of the Falknis. To the
right, near Vilters, is the Vntere Sarfall, a fine waterfall after rain.
45 M. Bagatz, see p. 341. To the right is the ruin of Freuden-
berg (p. 342). Below the influx of the Tamina the train crosses';
Rhine by a wooden bridge.
46 M. Maienfeld (1725'; pop. 1227; Rossli; Sonne; Zum Falk-
nis) is an old and thriving little town. The tower (restaurant; fine
view from the top) is said to have been erected in the 4th cent, by
the Roman Enip. Constantius. The old castle of the Counts of Tog-
genburg was the seat of the bailiffs of the Grisons down to 1795.
On the hill to the right are the ruin and pension of Wartenstein
and the abbey of Pfafers (p. 343).
The St. Luziensteig (2230' ; Inn, good wine), a fortified defile between
RAOATZ. .S.9. Route. 341
the Flcischerberg (3732') and the Falknis, through which the road to Vadutz
and Feldkirch leads, is 2 M. from Maienfeld. Fine view from the highest
block-house, on the top of the Flascherberg, iV4 hr. farther W., above the
fortification. — The Falknis (8420'), ascended from the Luziensteig, through
the Qlecktohel and by the Sarina-Alp or Flascfier-Alp (0 hrs. ; with guide),
is fatiguing but interesting. (Better from Maienfeld by Jenim, the Vorder
Alp, and Sarina Alp, and through the Fluscheiiluil.)
On the vine-clad slopes to the left , at the foot of the Vilan
(p. 348) lie the villages of Jenins (above it the ruins of Wyneck
and Aspermont) and Malans (2047' ; Krone ; Kreuz), with the cha-
teau of Bodmer, once the residence of the poet Gaudenz de Salis-
Seewis (d. 1834). 'Kompleter', the best wine in the valley, is grown
here. The train crosses the Landquart , near its influx into the
Rhine. 491/2 M. Landquart (1730'; *Hot. Davoserhof, near the
station, moderate), the junction of the new Pratigau line (see
p. 348). To the W., in the background, rise the barren Graue
Horner (p. 344).
The district between Maienfeld and Coire, with its numerous
castles, is remarkable for its fertility. Its central point is (52 M.)
Zizers (1854' ; Krone), an ancient little borough. To the left, at
the foot of the hills, are MoUniira, a summer-residence of the Bishop
of Coire, and the village of Trimmis. On the right tower the bare
peaks of the Calanda (9213') ; on the wooded slopes at its base are
the ruined castles oi Liechtenstein, Krottenstein, and Haldenstein, at
the foot of which last lies the village of the same name, with a well-
preserved walled chateau.
57 M. Coire, see p. 345.
89. Ragatz and Ffafers.
Comp. Plan and 3f(ip, p. 344.
Hotels (most of them open during the season only). 'Quellenhof (PI. a),
R., L., & A. 5-6, B. 11/2, D. 4-5, pens. 9-13 fr. ; *Hof Ragatz (PI. b), R.
L., & A. 31/2-5, B. IV2, D. 4, S. 3, pens. 7-13 fr.; 'Hotel Tamina (PI. c),
R., L., & A. 31/2-4, D. 31/2, pens. 7-10 fr.; *Schweizerhok (PI. d), R. 21/2-31/2,
U. 3'/2-5 fr. ; ^Hot.-Pens. Lattmann (PI. 1), pens. 7 fr., good cuisine (open
in winter also); -Krone (PI. e), R., L., & A. 3, B. 1, D. 3 fr. (open in winter
also); Villa Looisa; *H6t.-Pens. Frohlich (PI. h); -Freieck (PI. g)
~H6t.-Pens. Calanda (PI. f); "Hot. National (PI. 1); *Post, moderate;
Bar (Pl. k); Ochse, and Lowe, unpretending. — Near the station : *Rosen-
garten, R. & A. 21/2, B. 1, D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. (open in winter also). —
'Pens. Weiss (Villa Flora), on the road to the Freudenberg; 'Pens. Home-
Villa ; "Pens. Wartenstein (p. 343). — Restaurants. Kitrsaal, see below;
Rheinvilla, Bahnhof-Str. ; X'ussbaum, Churer-Str. ; Lowe, and Kreuz, with
gardens. — Cafi FeUenkeller, 1/4 '1- from the town, on the way to the
Freudenberg (p. 342). Buel, 3/4 M- from the village, near the ruin of
Freudenberg, with view. — Post Office (Pl. 6), near the Dorfbad. — Tele-
graph Office (Pl. 7), opposite the Krone.
Omnibus from the station to the village of Ragatz 75 c., trunk 25 c. ; to
Wartenstein IV2 (back 1) fr. — Carriage, with one horse from Ragatz to
Pfafers and back, with halt of 2 hrs., for 1-2 pars. 7, 3-4 pers. 10 fr., and fee.
Baths. Properties of the water, see p. 342. The MiUdbad (Pl. 4), JVeti-
bad (Pl. 2), and Helenenbad (Pl. 3) are near the Kurhaus ; the Dorfbad
(P1.5), with Trinkhalle, in the Eisenbahn-Strasse, between the Schweizer-
hi)f and the Tamina Hotel. The Neubad contains a large swimming-bath
342 Route fi9. RAGATZ.
(84° Fahr. ; 2 fr. in the morning, 1 fr. in the afternoon; ladies O'/z-ll'/i
a.m. and 4-6 p-m.) and single baths (2-2V2 fr.). Tickets at the office, to
the left of the Hof Ragatz.
Visitors' Tax , in June and Sept. 2, in July and Aug. 3 fr. per week
for each person.
Ragatz (1702'; pop. 1916), prettily situated on the impetuous
Tamina, which falls into the Rhine lower down, is a famous
watering-place and one of the most frequented places in Switzerland
(50,000 visitors annually, passing travellers included). The village
first owed its importance to the construction of the Pfiifers road (p. 343)
and of the conduit, 21/2 M. long, conveying the mineral water thence
to the Hof Ragatz in 1838-40, and the handsome buildings recently
erected give it almost the appearance of a town.
The chief rallying-points are the Quellenhof^ni tine Hof Ragatz
(formerly a mansion of the Abbots of Pfafers). In the Kurgarten,
at the back of the Quellenhof, a band plays in the morning, noon,
and evening. The open colonnade on the E. side affords a pleasing
survey of the Rhine Valley. The new Baths and Trinkhalle are on
the S.W. side. Beyond them are pleasure-grounds with a whey-
cure establishment, etc.
In the Cemetery, by the E. wall , is the monument of the philo-
sopher Schelling (d. at Ragatz in 1854), 20' high, with his bust. By
the last houses (1 M.) on the road from the cemetery to Sargans, a
path ascends to the left through vineyards to (I/2 M-) tli^ ruined
castle of Freudenberg (915'), with a fine view of the Rheinthal. We
return by a road on the hill-side, between houses and gardens.
*Bad Pfafers or Pfiivers, 530' above Ragatz, and 2'/2 M. distant,
is one of the most curious spots in Switzerland. It lies in the narrow
gorge of the Tamina, a glacier - torrent , on the brink of which the
good but narrow road (walking recommended) gradually ascends,
flanked by sombre limestone cliffs, 500 to 800' high. A little be-
fore the (I74 M.) Schivattenfall Restaurant a finger-post indicates
a path along the Tamina to Valurrank and (l'/2 M.) Wartenstein
(p. 343). Another finger-post 1/2 M. farther, a few paces beyond
which the road passes through a rocky gateway , indicates a path
to (1/2 l»r.) the village of Pfafers. Both these routes are miry in
wet weather.
The monastic -looking Bath-house, built in 1704, lies wedged
between precipices 600' high, and enjoys sunshine in the height of
summer from 10 till 4 o'clock only. Accommodation good, but plain
(R., L., & A. 2-3, B. 11/4 fr.). Very pleasant baths (1 fr. ; temp.
9707', at Ragatz 95^), chiefly frequented by the less wealthy classes,
and by invalids who prefer taking the waters near their source.
The copious hot springs (97-100°), clear as crystal, and free
from taste and smell, are impregnated with carbonate of lime, chlor-
ide of sodium , and magnesia, resembling those of Gastein and
Wildbad in their composition. They rise about 1/4 M. above the
bath-house in the narrow and gloomy *Gorge (30-50' wide) of the
PFAFERS. 89. Route. 343
wild Tamina. Tickets for the gorge and the springs (1 fr. each;
umbrellas advisable) are sold in the principal corridor of the bath-
house. The wooden pathway to the springs, resting on the rock or
on masonry, 30-40' above the torrent, leads between overhanging
walls of rock, 200-250' high, on the right bank of the Tamina, to
the vaulted chamber (98' long) of the New Spring (to the left of
the old), dating from '2nd Oct., I860'. The air in this vault is like
that of a hot vapour-bath, but there is little to see. This curious
ravine surpasses the rival Gorge of Trient (p. 231), the rounded
granite rocks of which are inferior in boldness to the nummulite of
Pfafers. From the Ragatz station to the springs and back, 3 hrs. on
foot, or 2 hrs. by carriage (p. 341).
From the Baths to the Village of Pfafeks (IV4 hr.). The path
ascends in windings on the left bank of the Tamina; after 1/4 hr., by a
finger-post, where the path to the right leads to Valens (see below,
10 min. from the Bad is the 'Calandaschau'), we descend to the left and
(5 min) cross the Tamina by a natural bridge, called the ^ Beschluss\ 32&'
perpendicularly above the springs. We now ascend the path on the
right bank, cut in steps, and slippery in rainy weather, to a (20 min. J
meadow, across which it ascends to (10 min.) an auberge on the road
leading to the right to Viittis (p. 344) and to the left to the village of
Pfafers. Turning to the left we reach (10 min.) a path to the right, lead-
ing us back to the road in ^/^ hr., opposite the first house of the village.
The Village of Pfafers (2696'; Adler; Lowe), on a hill, 2 M.
to the S. of Ragatz, is reached by a beautiful and shady road (with
short-cuts). On this road (2 M.) is the *Pens. Wartenstein (2463';
good restaurant; pens. 6-7 fr. ; omnibus from the station II/2, t»aok
1 fr. ; heavy luggage extra), affording a splendid view of the Rhine
Valley as far as the Curflrsteu to the N.W. (p. 44). Below, to
the S., are the ruin of Wartenstein and the Chapel of St. George
(2453'). The once rich and powerful Benedictine Abbey of Pfafers
was converted into a lunatic asylum (St. Pirminsberg) in 1838. The
Tabor (2765'), a rocky hill 3/^ M. to the N.E. of the abbey, also
affords a fine view.
Excursions from Ragatz. (Guides: Fdh, of Ragatz ; With, and Dav.
Kohler, and J. A. Sprechei\ of Viittis.) Ruin of Freudenberg, p. 342. On
the Sargans road, farther on, is the Restaurant Bttel, with a fine view.
— The Guschenkopf (2463'), a wooded hill to the W. of Ragatz, on the
right of the entrance to the Tamina Gorge, is skirted by pleasant walks,
on the S. side, passing the Bild (a chapel), and on the W. side (diverging
to the left from the road to Freudenberg, before the 'Felsenkeller'), leading
in 40 min. to the top. Fine view of Ragatz, the Rhine Valley, the Appenzell
and Pratigau Mta., the Graue Horner, and the Calanda. — To the Pension
Wartenstein (40 min.), see above. — To Maienfeld (IV2 31- ; by the road
crossing the new Rhine-bridge), see p. 340 ; St. Luziensteig (direct path by
the railway-bridge 3 M., road via Maienfeld 41/2 M.), see p. 340. — The Prd-
tigau(Seewis, Valzeina, etc.), see R.91. — C'oire, Via Mala, etc., see pp.345, 367.
°Piz Alun (4860'; 3 hrs. ; guide from St. Margarethen advisable for
novices) a splendid point of view. From (1 hr.) Dorf Pfafers through
wood to the pastures of St. Margarethen (4160') 1 hr., end of the village
V2hr., then to the left, and lastly by steps in the rock to the (V2 hr.) top.
To Valens (3018' ; Zum Frohsinn) from Bad Pfafers, 1/2 hr. (to the right
the finger-post mentioned above). On leaving the wood, the point of view
called the Calandschau affords a striking view of the Tamina Valley, with
the Calanda in the back-ground to the left, and the Monte Luna and the
344 Route R9. PFAFERS,
Graue Horner to the right. Below the church a path crosses the deep
MUhletobel to (V2 hr.) Vaso/i, amid sunny pastures, and the ('/4 hr.l road
to Vattis (sec l)elow). — Ascent of the ■ Vasannenkopf |667G'), from ^'al<,'ns,
easy (31/2 hrs. ; with guide). Across pastures to the. Alp Laos (6037') '6 hra.;
thence to tlie right to the top V2 hr. (extensive view; or still iiner from
the Scfilosslikopf, 7313', V4 lir. farther). Rich llora. — 'Monte Luna (7927';
4 hrs., from Valens liy Vason and the Alp Vindels), also easy and interest-
ing. — The ascent of Piz Hoi (9340'), the highest of the Graue Horner,
is grand and interesting, but trying (5'/2-6 hrs. from Valens).
From Ragatz to Reiohenau over the Kunkkls Pass (7-8 hrs.). To
(10 M.) Vattis a road (diligence from Ragatz daily; two-horse carr. there
and back in 2'/4 hrs., 25 fr.); thence to Reichenau a mule-track. The
road leads from the village of Pfiifers on the right side of the deep
Tamina Valley, of which picturesque glimpses are obtained. After V2 hr.
the path to the Baths of Pfiifers diverges to the right (p. 342); farther
on the road passes the hamlets of Ragol (opposite Valens) and Vadnra
(opposite Vason, at the foot of Mte. Lima, see above), and skirts the pre-
cipitous slopes of the Calanda. The valley expands near (10 M.) Vattis
(3107'; 'HSi. Tatnina, moderate; Zur Lerctie), a sequestered village near
the mouth of the Kalfeuser Thai (p. 08), from which the Tamina issues.
(Via St. Martin to the Sardona-Alp, 4 hrs., see p. G8.) The road ends
here. The bridle-path (which is practicable for vehicles to the top of
the pass) quits the Tamina, crosses the Giirhs three times, and ascends,
generally on the E. side of the valley. The chalets of the upper valley are col-
lectively called Knnkels. On reaching the (2 hrs.) Kunkels or Foppa Pass
(4433'), we turn to the left of the conduit and enter the defile of La
Foppa. (About 5 min. to the right of the path a superb view of the
Rhine Valley may be obtained.) 'Then a steep and stony descent to Tamins
and (I1/2 hr.) Reichenau (p. 357).
THE GRISONS.
The region which now forms the Canton of the Grisons (Grauhiinden)
was inhabited at the beginning of the Christian era by the Rhsetians,
who were subjugated by the Romans in A. D. 15. After the fall of the
Roman Empire, Rhatia came into the possession of the Ostrogoths and
afterwards into that of the Franks. In the middle ages the country be-
came the residence of many noble families, including the Bishops of Coire,
the Abbots of Disentis and Pfafers, the Counts of Montfort, Werdenberg,
and Matsch, and the Barons of Vatz, Rhaziins, Belmont, and Aspermont,
whose ruined castles are still seen on the heights. The inhabitants were
grievously oppressed by these magnates, and banded together on several
occasions they met and entered into associations with a view to obtain
redress. Thus in 1396 they formed the ^League of the House of God'' (Lia
da Ca Di, or Casa Dk), at "the head of which was the church of Coire;
in 1424 the '■Upper' or '■Gray League" (Lia Orischa); and between 1428 and
1436 the '■League of the Ten Jurisdictions'' (Lia dellas desch dretluras).
These coalitions gave rise in 1471 to the establishment of the ^Three Per-
petual Leagues of Rha'lia\ In 1512 the confederates conquered the Val-
tellina, which they governed by means of bailiffs down to 1797. By the
year 1521 more than half the population had embraced the Reformation,
but a powerful minority remained steadfast adherents of the Roman Catho
lie faith. The dissensions of these two parties gave rise to the invasion
of their country during the Thirty Years' War by Austro-Spanish and
French armies, but owing to the indomitable energy of George Jenatsch
the land at length succeeded in recovering its independence. From the
15th cent, onwards the 'Gray Confederates' were on friendly terms or in
alliance with the Swiss, and in 1803 their territory was incorporated with
Switzerland as the 15th Canton.
Down to 1848 the canton was divided into 26 small and almost entirely
independent republics , called IIochGerichte (jurisdictions), but these were
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COIRE. 90. Route. 345
abolished by the new constitution. It is now the largest, though not the
most populous canton in Switzerland (280C sq. M.; 94.991 inhab.), embracing
more than one-sixth of the area of the whole country ; and it is remarkable
for the variety of its scenery, climate, productions , and languages , as
well as for its national peculiarities and political constitution. The country
consists of an immense network of mountains, furrowed by about 150 val-
leys , and culminating in numerous peaks crowned with eternal snow.
Barren rocks are surrounded by luxuriant cultivation ; wild deserts, where
winter reigns during three-fourths of the year, lie amid forests of chest-
nuts, under the deep blue sky of Italy.
Not less varied are the inhabitants themselves in origin, language,
religion, and customs. The population includes 53,1G8 Protestants, and
41,711 IJoman Catholics , of whom 37,794 are of Romanic and 43,664 of
Teutonic race. Of the curious Romanic language there are two distinct
dialects: the Ladin of the Engadine , the Albula, and Miinster valleys,
and the Romance of the valleys of Disentis and Ilanz, the Oberhalbstein,
Schams, etc. The following epitaphs from Pontresina may be given as
specimens of the language: ''Quia reposan nos chers genitors^ (here repose
our dear parents). '■Naschiett Us 26 Aviiost 1S31, inorl its 10 Sc/iner 1850^
(he was born on 26th Aug. 1831 and died on 10th Jan. 1850). '■Alia memoria
da nossa virtuosa ed anieda mamma, morta a Zurich ils 15 Avuost 1871
neir etad d''ans 63 ed seguond sia giaviisch sepulida quia il di 19 seguaiiid,
iiiua gia reposaiva sia bun bdp^ (to the memory of our virtuous and beloved
mother, who died at Ziirich on 15th Aug. 1871, at the age of 63, and
according to her wish was buried here on the following 19th day, where
already her good father reposed). This dialect is spoken generally amongst
the people, but German is gaining ground, and is taught in the schools
so successfully that the younger natives speak it better than the inhabi-
tants of German Switzerland. In the time of the Hohenstaufen the whole
country was Romanic. Several small Romanic newspapers appear at Coire,
Disentis, etc. — Italian is spoken to the S. of the Alps, in the valleys of
Poschiavo, Bregaglia, Mesocco, and Calanca.
90. Coire.
Germ. Chur, Ital. Coira, Roman. Cuera.
Hotels. *Steinbock (PI. a; C, 4), on the Churwalden road, outside the
town, R., L., & A. 4-6, D. 4-4V2, B. IV2, pens, from 8 fr. ; 'Ldkmanier (PI. b;
D, 2), near the station, opposite the post-office, R., L., & A. 4, D. 3'/24,
omn. 3/4 fr. — Second-class: -Weisses Krehz (PI. c; D, 2), R. 2, B. i fr.;
-Stern (PI. d; E, 1), R. & A. 2V2-3, D., ind. wine, 3, B. IV4 fr. ; "Rothek
Lowe (PI. e; D, 3), R. l'/2-2, B. 1 fr. ; Sonne, Dkei Konige, moderate. —
Pension Rhatia.
Restaurants. C'trianda (PI. g; T>,2)\ Rhiilia; Hail. Restaurant. —Beer
the Casino, adjoining the Rothe Lowe; Lowenltof, near the market;
Vaseroler Halle, etc.
Baths (swimming and other) at Willy^s, on the Plessur (PI. E, 4 ; '/a f''.).
Wines. Valtellina (red , see p. 409) , abundant and not dear. Kom-
pleter, grown near Blalans (p. 341) in the valley of the Rhine, near the
lower Zollbriicke, good but expensive. The '■ La'ndwein\ or ordinary wine
of the country, of which the best is the Herrschiiftler, is a good red wine,
similar to Valtellina. Good wine at the Ho/keller, to the left in the Epis-
copal Court (also an inn), and at the auberges ^Zu den Rebleulen, by the
church of St. Martin, and'.^«»i Siissen WinkeV. — Cigars at Hitz^s, Post-Str.
Coire (1936'; pop. 9251 ; 2/3 Prot.), the capital of the Canton of
the Grisons , the Curia Rhaetorum of the Romans , and since the
4th cent, the seat of a Bishop, is picturesquely situated on the banks
of the Plessur, which falls into the Rhine I'/.i M. from the town.
Most of tlie Rom. Cath. inhabitants dwell in the BischofUche Hof,
or '■Episcopal CourV (_P1. E, F, 3), the vipper and most interesting
346 Route 90. COlRE. Cathedral.
quarter of the town, surrounded with walls. Here is the episcopal
*Cathedral of St. Lucius (PI. F, 3), part of which dates from the
8th cent, (sacristan 1 fr. ; No. 15, to the right of the archway).
The very ancient Portal of the Entrance Court is borne by columns
resting on lions; above is another lion, and on the columns are Apostles.
The Portal op the Cathedral, with its projecting slender columns with
graceful capitals, is Romanesque.
The Interior is interesting owing to the succession of different stylos
it presents. The aisles are only about half the height of the nave. The
pillars of the latter, strengthened by semi-columns, have bases adorned
as was usual in the 12th cent, with leaves at the corners , and heads of
animals, and have curious capitals of Corinthian tendency. The vaulting
is pointed. South Aisle : 'Sarcophagus of Bishop Orilieb de Brandis (d.
1494). Altar-piece, a Madonna by Stiimm, a pupil of Rubens. Tombstone of
Count de Buol- Schauensiein (d. 1797), and opposite, that of his son (d. 1833).
South Transept. 1st Altar: above it, Herodias by Cranach; in the centre
a Madonna of Rubens' s School; the side-pictures by the elder Holbein and
his school. Reliquary of the 10th century. 2nd Altar: handsome ornamen-
tation. Reliquary in the form of a Gothic church; in the arches Christ
and the Apostles. Altar-piece, a Crucifixion and Saints, a work of the
German School of the 15th century. Choir : -High-altar gilded and richly
carved by Jacob Russ (1491). Stalls and a "Tabernacle of 1484 (the latter
attributed to Adam Krafft). The Crypt is a low chamber with flat ceiling
of the 5th century. North Aisle : 1st Altar, St. Aloysius by A. Kauff-
mann. Over the central altar, 'Christ bearing the Cross, by Diirer. In
the Sacristy is the rich -"Treasury : reliquaries, crucifl.xes, candelabra,
vestments, etc. ; reliquaries in embossed copper (8th cent.) ; embroidered
stuffs of the Saracenic period; fragments of silk dating from the time of
Justinian ; Christ and Peter on the sea, a miniature-painting on lapis-laznli
by C. Dolci. The glass cabinets contain charters granted by Charlemagne,
Louis le Debonnaire, Lothaire, etc.
Adjoining the church is the venerable Episcopal Palace (PL 2;
E, F, 3). The Chapel, one of the earliest of Christian edifices, lies
to the N., within the walls of the ancient Roman tower of Marsoel
('Mars in oculis''), which is connected with the palace. This tower
and another named Spinoel (^^Spina in oculis', containing the 'Hof-
keller', see above; fine view from the windows) form the N. angles
of the 'Hof. An ancient tower to the N.W., with the adjacent wall,
appears also to be Roman. The names of these towers imply that the
Rhsetians were kept in subjection by the threats of their conquerors.
In the square in front of the cathedral rises the Hofbrunnen, with
figures of saints, erected in 1860. Behind the cathedral are the
Monastery of St. Lucius, now a seminary for priests, and the Can-
tonal School (PI. F, 3; for both creeds).
The town itself contains few objects of interest. The Protestant
ChurchofSt. Martin(V1.6; D, 3), the Government Buildings (Pi. i;
E, 2), and the Hospital (PI. A, 4) founded by the Capuchin Father
Theodosius (d. 1865) are the chief buildings. Opposite the Martins-
kirche , to the left of the approach to the cathedral court , is the
Rhaetian Museum (PI. E, 3 ; Sun. 10-12 , gratis ; at other times
1 fr.), containing antiquities , old mural paintings from the epis-
copal palace (Death-dance after Holbein) , the cantonal library, a
natural history collection, etc. — Three windows in the hall of the
Rathhaus{?\.?> ; D, 3) contain stained glass of the 16th century. — The
Environs. COTRE. 90. noule. 347
old cemetery, now the Stadtgarten (PI. C, 3), in tlie Graben-Strasse,
opposite tbe Cantonal Bank, contains numerous grave-stones of the
17th cent., in good preservation, and a monument to the poet Gau-
denz von Salis-Seeicis (d. 1834; p. 348), by Kayser of Zurich.
Environs. Fine view of the town and the Rhine Valley from the Rosen-
hugel (Restaurant) on the Julier road, 10 min. from the Plessur bridge, with
pleasant grounds. The 'Haldenanlagen' on the Mitienberg, above the
Schaiifigg-Strasse (p. 355) also afford a good view. At the second bend of
this road towards the K. there are three finger-posts (the second path the
best) indicating the ascent through wood to the (2 hrs.) Mittenberg
(3628'), which commands the whole Rhine Valley as far as Ilanz. A similar,
though less extensive view (nov? confined by trees) is obtained from the fit.
Lueivskapelle, situated under an overhanging rock in the middle of the wood
(3/4 hr. from Coire; reached by following the Schanfigg road to within
5 min. of the rockv cleft mentioned at p. 355, tunnel, and ascending to the
left). — About 1 iyi. to the N.E. of the town (shadeless road through
vineyards) is the Lurlebad (three inns, Voneschen's the best).
By the Pizokel, a wooded hill to the S. of Coire, on the E. side of which
the Churwalden road ascends (p. 3S0), a pleasant forest-path leads to the
(l'/2 hr.) Schonegg. It diverges by the Rosenhiigel to the W. from the
first bend in the road, leading to a finger-post 'nach Schiinegg'. Fine view
of the Vorderrhein Valley. Another pleasant path diverges from the same
road 2 M. from Coire (finger-post), to the right, turning back, to the
P/t M.) Kanzli (about 3930'), a charming point of view. Thence to the
Maiensasse and the (2V2 hrs.) Spontiskopfe (6360'), spurs of the ridge
which runs S.W. from Coire towards the Schyn, parallel with the Dom-
leschg. View of the Schanfigg Valley as far as Peist, and of the Vorder-
rhein Valley. The 'Stdtzerhorn (8458'), the highest peak of this range,
farther to the S., see p. 380.
Bad Passugg (2720'; auberge) , with a chalybeate spring containing
soda and carbonic acid , lies 3 M. from Coire in the wild valley of the
liabiosa (p. 380). A path leads to it in IVi hr. from the Todtengut on the
Sand. Or follow the Churwalden road to the end of the fourth great bend,
turn to the left to the rustic sanatorium of (1 hr.) Miihlerain and ascend
the gorge to Passugg. Thence a foot-path to (1^/4 hr.) Churwalden (p. 380),
at first by steps ; then to the right where the path divides, following
the course of the Rabiosa ; lastly crossing it and turning to the left.
The Calanda (9213') may be ascended from IlaUlenstein, 3 M. to the
N. of Coire (p. 341), in 6 hrs. (fatiguing). Quarters for the night at the
highest chalets, 2V2 brs. from the top. Magnificent view ; more striking
when the ascent is made from Viittis (p. 344; 7-8 hrs.; more fatiguing).
— The following excursion of 2V2-3 days is recommended : in the afternoon
by Malix to Parpan 3 hrs. ; next morning ascend the Statzerhorn in 3 hrs.
(p. 380); descend to Lenz; go byAlvaschein, and the Schyn-Strasse to Thusis
and the Via Mala ; drive to Reichenau ; diligence thence to Coire.
From Coire to the Schanfigg Valley and to Arosa, see R. 93.
91. From Landquart to Schuls over the Fliiela Pass.
The Pratigau.
Comp. Maps, pp. 3i4, 4oo.
57 M. Diligence to Klosters (20'/-.; M.), twice daily in 5 hrs. (7 fr. 50,
coupe 9 fr. 55 c), to Davos-Dorfii (27'/2 M.) in 6 hrs. 50 min. (9 fr. 90,
coupe 12 fr. 65 c); to Schuls (57 M.) in 14 hrs. (22 fr. 5, coupe 27 fr. 25 c).
One-horse carr. from Landquart to Davos 40, from Davos to Schuls 32 fr. ;
'extra-posf and pair from Landquart to Davos-Dorfii 74 fr. 60 c, to Davos-
Platz 79 fr. 80 c. ; from Davos to Tarasp 77 fr. 60 or 80 fr. 40 c. This is the
direct route from Rorschach and Coire to the Lower Engadine. — A Rail-
way (narrow gauge) on the adhesive principle from Landquart to Davos
is under construction, and has been opened as far as (21 M.) Kh'Sfeis in Sept.
348 JiouleOl. SCHIERS. From Landquart
1889. It is proposed to continue it beyond Davos either througb the Strtig
Valley, with a tunnel 5 M. long, or through the Dischma Valleii, with a
tunnel 4 M. long, to the Engadine (from Davos to Saniadcn 29 M.).
The Pratigau ('meadow-valley'; Roman. Val Parlenz) , a somewhat
narrow valley, richly sprinkled with fruit-trees, is noted for its fertility,
its excellent pasturage, and its fine breed of cattle. At its mouth and
in other places it is covered with the deposits of the Landquart. Among
the surrounding mountains are several snow-peaks. In its scattered dwell-
ings it resembles Canton Appenzell , but its climate is milder and its
soil more fertile. Population (Prot.) about 10,(XX). German is spoken, but,
as in the Tyrol, most of the villages have Romanic names, that language
having once been spoken here. The Rhaetikon chain , to the N., cul-
minating in the Scesaplana (see below), separates the Pratigau from the
Montavon (p. 419).
Landquart (1730'), see p. 341. The road to the Pratigau crosses
(Y4 M.) the high-road to Coire. (On the other side of the Land-
quart is the charmingly situated Malans; in the hackground to
the N.W. rise the Curfirsten and the St. Luziensteig between tlie
Flascherberg and the Falknis.) Beyond the (2 M.) inn Zum Fel-
senbach we cross the Landquart, and enter the Klus, a narrow
gorge, "'^M. long, the entrance to the Pratigau. On the projecting
rocks are a few fragments of the castle of Fraystein, which once
commanded the mouth of the gorge. In 1799 the French had to
make a detour in order to capture this defile, which was bravely de-
fended by the peasants.
A steep road diverging to the right, before the bridge is crossed, as-
cends to the (31/2 M.) Kurhaus Valzeina (3670' ; R. from '2, pens. 4-5 fr.),
prettily situated in the Valzeinathal. Thence to the top of the Yalzeiiier-
spitz or Eaupt (4598'; fine view), ^|^ hr., easy; another fine point is
the Ciprianspitz (5833'), reached in 2V2 hrs. by Jlinter- Valzeina. A bridle-
path leads over the Sttirndboden (4505') and through the SMimdtobel to
(21/2 hrs.) Zizers (p. 341).
Beyond the Klus the valley expands. We soon reach Pardisla,
Schmitten, with the ruined castle of Solavers, and (1^/4 M.) Grusch
(2113'; * Krone ; Rosengarten). Large embankments were con-
structed across the valley in 1847-48 with a view to reclaim the
land devastated by the Landquart.
Carriage-road from Pardisla to the left to (3 M.) Seewis (2985'; Kvr-
haus, pens. 6-7 fr., carr. at the Landquart station, 2-3 p.m.; ' Hdt.-I'ens.
Scesaplana and Pens. Walser, at the E. end of the village, civil landlord,
Ilr. A. Walser, well acquainted with the district), a summer resort,
charmingly situated on the hillside amidst rich pastures. The poet Gau-
denz de Salis-Seewis (d. 1834) is buried in the churchyard here. Pleasant
walks to the Tanzboden, above the school, and thence to the Ahorngruppe
and the Markusplatz (I/4 hr.); to Marnein (3660'; ^/4 hr.) ; to the Maiensass
or chalet of Matan (4282'; 1 hr.); to Fadera (3477'; 1 hr.); and to the Afan-
nas (3812'; 1 hr.). — Ascents (guides, Fausch and Sprecher): The Vilan or
Ochsenberg (erroneously Augstenberg ; 7802'; 4 hrs.; guide 5 fr.) aflbrds a
splendid view. — Ascent of the Scesaplana (9738'; 6-7 hrs. ; guide 14 fr.J,
by the Alp Pains and the (41/2 hrs.) SchameUa Club Hut (7800'; Inn in
summer); thence to the top by a steep path in 2 hrs. more (comp. p. 418).
— Passage of the Cavell-Joch (7563') to the LUner See 6 hrs. (guide 8 fr. ),
rather toilsome (comp. p. 419).
7 M. Schiers (2155' ; *Post: Stem; Lowe), 21/4 M. from Grusch.
On 24th April, 1622, the villagers defeated the Austrians in the
churchyard. The women chiefly contributed to the victory, and
to Schuls. KUBLLS. 91. Route. 349
tlicy have since enjoyed the privilege of first receiving the sa-
crament as a reward.
Over the Schweizerlhor (7054') or the Drusenthor (7710') to (8-9 hrs.)
Scfiruns, see p. 419 (both toilsome, and rarely traversed). — Ascent of the
Kreuz (7218') by Faiauna and Slelscrbefff, in 4 hrs., interesting.
The road crosses (1 M.) the river, which it follows through the
narrowing valley to (3 M.) Jenatz (2462' ; Post; Krone) and (1 M.)
Fiderisau (2UT ; Niggli, plain).
A road ascends here to the right to (1 M.) the Village of Fideris (2962';
Inn, belonging to the owner of the baths ; several pensions), where a mon-
ument to the judge Schneider, the 'Hofer' of the Vorarlberg, was erected by
Archduke John. To the S. of the village (I1/2M. ; road for small vehicles
only) are the Baths of Fideris (3480') , situated in a gorge. The water,
containing carbonate of soda and carbonic acid gas , is beneficial in pul-
monary complaints, like that of St. 3Ioi-itz,but it is less powerful (pens. 5-6 fr.).
The road follows the Landquart through a magnificent rocky and
wooded gorge. To the left, high above, lies the hamlet of Pm<s, with
the ruined stronghold of Castels^ destroyed by the 'Gray Confederates'
in 1622. From a pine-clad hill to the right peeps the ruin of Strahl-
egg. We cross the Landquart to the hamlet of Dalvazza, belonging
to the parish of Luzein higher up , and (2 M.) Eublis (2690';
*Krone; Steinbock), a pleasant village.
From Kdblis to the Montavon, over the <S/. Antonier-Joch (7664'),
8 hrs. to Gallenkirch, easy. From the village of (3 hrs.) SI. Antonien (4660';
"Lotscher) the "Sulzfluh (9265'; superb view) may be ascended in 4-5 hrs.
(trying; with guide). — To Schruns over the Partnun or Gri^en Pass
(73'32'), 7-8 hrs.; over the Plasseggen-Pass (7694'), 8 hrs.; both without dif-
ficulty. On the Parlnun-Staffel , IV2 hr. above St. Antonien , is the
finely-situated H6t.-Pens. Sulzfluh (5866'; modest, pens. 5 fr.). — To Lang-
wiES by Centers and the Durannapass, 5 hrs., see p. 355.
The road begins to ascend (above, to the right, Is Conters,
p. 355). It skirts the N. slope, affording fine views, crosses several
valleys with waterfalls, and leads by (I'/o M.) Saas (3260'; Post),
and (21/2 M.) Mezzaselva (3400'; *Inn , moderate), the post-sta-
tion for the opposite village of Serneus, to (3 M.) Klosters (see below).
From the last height , we survey the Pratigau , with the finely
yiAwMeA Silvretta Glacier terminating the valley to the E.; to the
right rise the Roggenhorn (9505') and the Gatschieferspitz (8770').
A carriage -road, descending by Mezzaselva and crossing the Land-
(luart, leads hence to the considerable village of Serneus. In the valley
to the left, on the left bank of the Landquart are (1 M.) the Baths of
Serneus (3225'; 'Kurhaus, moderate), noted for its sulphur-spring. The
route hence to (3 JI.) Klosters crosses both arms of the Landquart (1 M.),
and then keeps to the right, traversing pastures, and ascending the stream.
20'/2 M. Klosters is prettily situated among pastures and woods
in a broad valley, shut in on all sides by lofty mountains, and is
much frequented in summer. It consists of the three hamlets of
(2 M.) Dorfli (3690'; *Kurhaus Klosters-Dorfli; Pens. Schweizer-
haus), Platz (3966'), 1 M. farther, with the churcli, and Briicke
(3907'), on the other side of the Landquart. The hotels in the
two last are : on this side of the bridge : *Hdt.-Pens. Vereina; *H6t.-
Pens. Brosi, R. & A. 3, D. 3, S. 2, B. 11/4, pens. 7 fr. — Beyond the
350 Route 91. KLOSTERS. From Landquart
bridge: *H6t.-Pens. Silvretta, or Kurhaus Kloslers, R. 3-4, B. 1,
D. 3, S. 2, pens. 8-9 fr.; *Pens. Florin. The Rutixmld, 1/4 M.
from the bridge, is well provided with benches.
Excursions. (Guides: C. C. Ileic, Chr. and W. Jann, and L. Guler.)
Attractive short w^alks to Anje (V2 hr.). Monhiel (1 lir.), Marienhohe (1/2 hr-),
the Schwarzsee (I'/i hr.), Obere Riiti (!'/•.! hr.), etc. — To the Silvretta
Club Hut (5 hrs. •, guide 7 fr.), see belovs^. From the hut to the fall of
the fSilvretta Glacier, IV2 hr. there and back; to the top of the glacier,
3 hrs. — The Gotschna (7435'), 372 hrs. vi'ith guide, reached by passing
the Schwarzsee (p. 351) and crossing the meadows of Parsenn\ the Ca-
nardhorn (8560'; 5 hrs. from Novai, see below ; 7 fr.) and the Aelpelti-
spitz (8825'; 5 hrs. ; 7 fr.), ascended through the Schlappintfial, are fine
points, free from difficulty. Casanna (8405'; 3'/2-4 hra. ; guide 7fr. ); the
last part requires a steady head. Pischahorn (9790'; 6 hrs.; 7 fr.), through
the MonchaljH/tal, not difficult. More laborious are the TJngeheuerhorn
(9843'; 5 hrs. from the Vereina Hut, see below, and through the Siiser-
thal; 20 fr.) and the Plattenhorner (highest peak 10.587'; 6 hrs. from Ver-
eina; 22 fr.). — The Silvrettahorn (10,655'), 4 hrs. from the Silvretta
Hut (see below; guide from the hut 10 fr.j, and the 'Grosser Piz Buin
(10,870'), 6 hrs. from the hut (guide 20 fr.), present no danger to e.\perts.
More difficult are the Klein-Buin (10,710'), Verslanklahom (10,833'), Sec-
horner {Grosi-Litzner, 10,200' ; Gvoss-Seehorn, 10,250'), and Miidrishoru (9344').
Fkom Klosteks to SOs sr the Vekeina Pass, 9-10 hrs. (guide 12 fr.),
tolerably fatiguing. A narrow road ascends the right bank of the Land-
quart, which is formed by the confluence of the Sardasca and Vereina,
IV2 hr. above Klosters, and leads by Moiibiel to (l'/2 hr.) the Novai Alp
(7770'), on the left bank of the Sardasca. We now follow a bridle-path
to the right, and ascend the Vereina Valley, passing the Stutzalp (6158')
to the (i'/2 hr.) Vereina Club-lmt (6395'), at the mouth of the Vernela Valley
(see below), and to the (V4 hr.) Alp Fremdvereina (6437'), where the
valley divides into the Jorithal to the right and the Siiser-Thal to the
left. We ascend the latter to the (21/2 hrs.) pass of Val Torta, or Ver-
eina Pass (8725'), traverse the snow to the left of the Ilontli, and
descend rapidly by a rough path through the Val Sagliains to (3 hrs.)
Siis (p. 401). Or, at the upper end of the Siiser Thai, we may turn to
the right to the Fless Pass (8133') and descend thence through the Val
Fless to the fiiisasca Valley and the Fliiela road (p. 351) 3 M. above
Siis. A third route, the finest of all, leads through the Jorithal (see
above), with the seven JOri Lakes and the extensive Jori Glacier overshad-
owed by the Weiss/iorn (10,130'), and across the Jori-Fless Pass (8422') to
(he Val Fless and the Fliiela road.
Fro.m Klosters to Lavin by the Vernela Pass, 10-11 hrs. (guide
12 fr.), suited for adepts only. From the Vereina Hut (see above) the
path ascends the Vernela Valley (see above), passing the cavern of Bareita-
Balma, to the Filler Glelscher ; then a toilsome ascent on the ice to the
(6-7 hrs.) Vernela Pass (Laviner Joch or Fiiorcla Zadrell, 9131'). Steep de-
scent into the Val Lavimtoz, to Marangim, and below the precipices of the
Piz Linard by the Alp da Mezz and Alp da Doura to Lavin (p. 401).
From Klosteks to Guauda by the Silvretta Pass, 10-11 hrs. (guide
16 fr.), fatiguing, but presenting no difficulty to adepts. Road to Novai (see
above ; shorter path on the right hank of the Sardasca by Pardenn and
Garfiiin) and through the Sardasca Valley to the (3 hrs.) Sardasca Alp
(5364'); then a path to the (2 hrs.) ruinous Silvretta Club Hnl (about
■7480') on the Medje-Kopf (8225'), close to the crevassed Silvretta Glacier.
We then ascend the crevassed glacier to the (3 hrs.) Silvretta Pass to the
W. of the Signalhorn (10,520'), skirt the Kleine Piz Buin (10,710') , and
finally descend the steep and troublesome Plan-Rai Glacier and through
the Val Tuoi to (3 hrs.) Guarda (p. 401). — From the Silvretta Hut to Guarda
over the Verstanklathor or the Tiatscha Pass (Fuorcla del Conjin), 7 hrs.,
two very trying routes, for adepts only (guide 16 fr.).
To theMontavon over the Schlappiitajoch (8 hrs. to Gallenkirch), seep. 419.
toSchuls. FLUELA PASS. 91. Route, '^bi
The high-road to Davos (oiie-horsc carr. to Davos-Platz, Sy^ M.,
in 21/2 lirs., 10 fr.) quits the Landquart, and in a long hend (which
walkers cut ofif) ascends the Klostersche Stiltz, a wooded hill separat-
ing the Priitigau from the district of Davos. At (3 M.) Unter-Laret
(5017'; Inn), a group of chalets in a meadow, is the small Schwarz-
see. (Walkers may save time hy following the old road ^/^ hr. from
Klosters, crossing the Riedlochhach '/4 M. beyond the bridge, and
ascending by the guide-post to the right, past the Schwarzsee.)
(1 M.) Oher-Laret; (8/4 M.) St. Wolfgang (*H6t. Davos -Kulm,
pens. 5fr.), at the top of the pass (5357'). The road descends through
wood, passes (^/4 M.) the chalets Ob dem See and a new Kurhaus,
and skirts the Davoser See (5125'; 1 M. long), a lake abounding in
flsh, and drained by the Davoser Landwasser. About 1/4 M. beyond
the S. end of the lake, beyond the Seehorn Inn, is —
271/2 M. Davos-Dorfli (5160'; p. 352), where diligence-pass-
engers dine. To Davos-Platz, see p. 352.
The Fliiela road crosses the Landwasser. (To the right, at the
head of the Dischma Valley, rises the beautiful Piz Vadret, 10,565'.)
We ascend the sequestered Fluela Valley, on the right bank of the
Fliiela, traversing wood, and passing the (4 M.) Inn Zur Alpenrose
(6004') and (l'/2M.) the Tschuggen Inn (6370'), to the bleak
upper part of the valley, bounded by barren slopes. (The old bridle-
path cuts off the windings of the road.) On the (4 M.) —
38 M. Fluela Pass (7835'; *Fluela Hospice, R. 2, D. 4 fr.) the
road passes between two lakes, the first of which (Schottensee), on
the right, contains greenish-white glacier-water, the other on the left
(Schwarzsee) clear spring-water. To the N. rises the Weisshor7i
(10,1300, to the >S. the Schiuarzhorn (10,338').
The Schwarzhom (i0,.338' ; 3-3'/.; hrs., guide 8 fr.), an admirable point,
is nnt difficult. We descend the road to the E. for 1 M., and then ascend
the Radiinthal by a patli to the right, over .stony and grassy slopes, to the
(11/2 hr.) glacier. This we cross to the (20 min.) base of the peak, and
ascend its steep S. arete to the ('/4 hr.) top. Imposing panorama : most con-
spicuous from S. to W. are the Piz Vadret, and beyond it the Bernina, Piz
Dosde, etc.; the Piz Kesch, Piz d'Aela, Tinzenhorn , Piz St. Michel (and,
farther oiT, the Valaisian and Bernese Alps); Lenzerhorn, Todi, Glarnisch,
Sentis , Scesaplana , in the foreground the Silvretta, the Oetzthaler Ferner,
Piz Lischanna, Pisoc, Ortler ; then the valleys of Fliiela, Dischma, Davos,
and the Lower Engadine with Ardetz and the castle of Tarasp.
The road descends the rock-strewn valley in windings, and cross-
es the Susasca at (274 M.) Chant Sura, by a road-menders' hut
(7143'). To the right opens the dreary Val Orialetsch, at the head
of which rises the jagged Piz Vadret (10,565'), with the great
Grialetsch Glacier. The road crosses a torrent from the Val Fless
(p. 350) on the left. Fine retrospect of the Schwarzhorn. Farther
down, we cross to the right side of the valley and pass through a
gallery, beyond which Siis, with its ruined castle, becomes visible
in the valley, with the three-peaked Pi3jl!fesdj(p. 401)above it. Then
a descent in windings (old road to the left a short-cut) to (7 M.) —
44 M. Sils (p. 401) ; thence to (57 M.) Schuls, see R. 103.
352
92. From Davos-Dorfli to Coire via Lenz
( Landwasser Route).
Comp. Map^ p. 400.
36 M. Diligence daily in 8 (returning in 9) lirs. ; I41/2 fr., coupii
17 fr. 40c. — Extra-Post, with two horses, from Coire to Davos-Plat/. 105 fr.
40 c, to Davos-Diirfli 111 fr. 10 c; through the Schyn Pass 130 fr. 20 c.
or 135 fr. 90 c. — Two-horse carr. from Coire to Wiesen 77, to Davos
110 fr., incl. fee. — The "Landwasser Road, constructed in 1870-73, vies
in boldness of structure with tlie Schyn-Strasse and the Via Mala, and
surpasses them both in the grandeur and variety of the scenery it traverses.
The district of Davos (Rom. Tavau), a lofty Alpine valley, about 8 M.
long and 1/2 M. broad, with 3800 Prot. inhab., consists of pastures and a
few corn-fields, sprinkled with cottages and chalets. It is enclosed by
wooded mountains, and watered by the Landwasser. Around the five
churches of the valley are grouped the hamlets of Dorfli, Am Plats (or St.
Johanii am Platz), Frauenkircfi, Glaris, and, in a lateral valley, Monstein.
Down to 1848 the district formed one of the 26 sovereign jurisdictions of
the Grisons (p. 344). The inhabitants are said to have been originally
German immigrants from the Valais, who settled here in the 13th century.
Davos-Dorfli (5160'; Kurhaus Davos-Dorfli, pens. 6-7 fr., well
sheltered; *H6t. Fliiela, R.&A. 21/2, B. 1, D. 3fr. ; Pem. Gredig,
Bellevue, Paul, Villa Sonneck'), is prettily situated at the base of
the Schiahorn (S200'y Opposite, at the head of the Dischma valley,
to the S.E., is the Scaletta Glacier with the Piz Vadret (p. 353);
and to the left rises the Schwarzhorn (p. 351).
Pleasant walk to the ('/4 hr.) Davoser See (p. 351), with promenades
on its E. bank. The Weissfluh (9345'; ascended via Meierhof in 41/2 hrs. ;
guide advisable) is a fine point of view (alternative descent to Langxoies,
p. 355). — The Pischahorn (9790'; 5V2 hrs.; guide 10 fr.) is ascended without
difficulty via TscMiggen, see p. 351.
1*^/4 M. Davos -Platz. — "Kuranstalt Holsboek, including the
Kvrliatis Davos and several villas; *Hot.-Pens. d'Angletekre ; *H6t.-Pens.
Buol; 'Hot. -Pens. Belvedere, pens. 5-10 fr. ; "Hot. Victoria, patronised
by the English; ''Hot. -Pens. Garr6; *H6t. Rhatia, R. & L. 3, B. IV4, pens.
6'/2-10 fr. ; -'Post, moderate; 'Hot. Strela; *Schweizerhof; Davoserhof;
Rathhads, moderate; Hot. -Pens. Windsor; Pens. Kilp. — Apartments at
the Centralhof, Villa Florenza, Villa Morosani, taverna House, Frei House,
Villa Bonier, etc. — Cafi^ in the Kvrliaus Holshoer. Wine at the Veltlinerhalle.
— Visitors'' Tax I'/a fr. per week. — The Fridericianvm is a school for
boys with pulmonary affections (Dr. Perthes).
Carriages. One-horse, to Davos-Dorfli 3 fr., two-horse S'/z fr. ; to
Spinabad and Glaris G or 12, Schwarzsee 7 or 13, Tschuggen 8 or 15, Klos-
ters or Hoffnungsau 10 or 18, Fliiela Hospice 12 or 22, Wiesen 15 or 28,
Tiefenkasten 25 or 45, Thusis 35 or 65, Landquart 26 or 60, Coire and
Ragatz 35 or 05, Tarasp 32 or 00, Saiuaden 45 or SO, Pontresina 50 or90fr.
Davos-Platz, or St. Johann am Platz (5115'), the capital of the
district and of the ancient league of the ten jurisdictions, with pic-
turesque houses scattered among the pastures, is a favourite summer
and winter resort of consumptive patients. It is sheltered by lofty
mountains from the N. and Ji. winds, and the air is remarkably pure
and dry. Tlie hall of the handsome i?a</i/juus (""Restaurant on the
ground-floor) contains interesting stained glass and other curiosities.
A band plays at midday and in the evening In Holshoer s Kurgarten.
Walk.s. To the Stein (Restaurant), above Hotel Buol, with fine view,
20 min. — To the Waldhaiis (Mot.-Pens.) at the entrance to the Dischma
Valley, 20 min. — To Davos-Dorfli and the Davoser See (p. 351), 1 hr. —
DAVOS. 92. Route. 353
Gemsjciger, '/2 hr., and waterfalls in the Alberti-Tobel, '/^ hr. — Schatzherg
(G150'; refreshm.), 1 hr. ; Strela Alp (6496'), l'/4hr. ; Oriine Alp and Ischa
Alp, each 1 hr. — To Frauenkirch, 2/4 hr. ; baths of Clavadel, 1 hr. , etc. —
Ascents (guides, A. Mettier, L. Ardliser, A. Corai, and others). "Schia-
horn (8900'), bv the Strela Pass (p. 356), 4 hrs. (guide 7 fr.) ; easy and inter-
esting. — AUeingrat (7808'), by Glaris, d'^hrs., not diflicult (guide 8fr.);
easily ascended from Wiesen also, viA the Alvascheiner Alp. — *Schwarz-
horn (10,338'), from the Fliiela Pass, 6 hrs. (10 fr.), see p. 351. — Piz Vadret
(10,565'), by the Scaletta Pass, 6 hrs. (guide 20 fr.), an interesting glacier-
expedition for experts. — Hoch-Ducan (10,060'), from SerUg-Diirfli (see be-
low) 6 hrs. (20 fr.), difficult and very fatiguing.
From Davos to Scanfs over the Scaletta Pass, 81/2 hrs., attractive
(direct route from Davos to the Upper Engadine ; guide desirable). From
Davos-Dorfli we follow the high-road to Davos-Platz for a few hundred
paces, turn to the left into the Dischma Valley, and reach (2^/4 hrs.) the inn
Im Diirrboden (6598'), with a fine view of the Scaletta Glacier. To the
left rises the Schwarzhorn (10,338'), ascended hence in 4 hrs. (better from
the Fliiela Pass, p. 351). The rough, stony path ascends in 2 hrs. more to
the Scaletta Pass (8592'), lying between the Kiihalphorii (10,108') and the
Scalettahorn (10,066'). A hut afl'ords shelter; view limited. Descent, very
steep at places, but enlivened by waterfalls and views of the lateral valleys
with their glaciers, to the Alp Fonlauna (7210'), and through the Sulsanna-
Thal to (21/2 hrs.) Sulsanna (poor inn) and (1/2 hr.) Capella in the Innthal ;
then to (IV2 M.) Scan/s (p. 400).
From Davos to Coire by the Strela Pass (Schanfigg, Arosa), see R. 93;
to Arosa by the Meyeiifelder Fitrka, see p. 356.
To Bergun over the Sertig Pass, 8 hrs., interesting (road to
Sertig-Dorfli; then a bridle-path, guide desirable for the unexperienced).
About 1 M. to the S. of Davos-Platz the road diverges from the Frauenkirch
road to the left, crosses the Landwasser, enters the pretty, wooded Sertig
Valley, and leads past (2 M.) the small sulphur-bath of Clavadel (5460';
pens. 4'/2 fr.) and many scattered chalets to (4 M.) Sertig-Diirfli (6102';
Gadmer, rustic), with the church of the valley. Above the village ('Hinter
den Ecken') the valley divides into the Ducan-Thal to the right, from which
a fatiguing route leads over the Ducan Pass (8763') to Filisur, and the Kiih-
alpthal to the left, through which the bridle-path now ascends to the (2'/2
hrs.) Sertig Pass (9062'), between the Kiihalphorn (see above) and the Hoch-
Ducan (10,060'). Fine view of the Porchabella Glacier and Piz Kesch (11,228')
towards the S. We then descend to the right past the Raveisch Lakes and
through the Val Tuoi-s to the chalets of Chiaclamiot (6106') and (3 hrs.)
Bergiin (p. 379); or we may descend from the pass to the left through
the Val Sertig to the (1 hr.) Alp Fontauna (see above) and through the
Sulsanna-Thal to (4 hrs.) Scaiifs (p. 400).
Below Davos are several torrents with their broad stony deposits.
The road follows the right side of the valley, which is sprinkled
with houses and chalets , in view of the tooth-like Tinzenhorn
to (272 M.) Frauenkirch (Post, well spoken of), protected from
avalanches by a bulwark, with a picturesquely situated old church.
To the left opens the Sertig Valley, in which lies Clavadel (see
above). The valley contracts. We cross the Landwasser near the
(11/2 M.) Spinabad (4816'), a sulphur-bath (good, though plain)
prettily situated amidst pines, and pass (2/4 M.) Glaris (Post), scat-
tered on the pastures of the right bank. The road then leads through
the picturesque, wooded valley, on the left bank of the stream, in
the direction of the Piz Michel (p. 378), to the (2^0^.) Schmelz-
boden Hoffnungsau (4362'; Inn), a foundry disused since 1847. To
the right rise the precipitous pine-clad and stony slopes of the ZUge.
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 23
354 Route .92. "WIESEN. From Davos
Below the foundry the valley contracts to a wild gorge. The
new road (Zilgenstrasse) follows the left bank for ^/^ M. more,
leads through a tunnel and an avalanche-gallery , and crosses to
the right bank, where it soon begins to ascend. Three more tun-
nels and another avalanche-gallery. The *Barentritt, a projecting
platform on the road-side, 250' above the Landwasser, affords a
striking view of the grand and wild valley, into wliich the Sdgen-
tobelfiiM, 105' high, is precipitated on the right. The road crosses
the Sdgenlobel and the Briickentobel, and ascends in long windings
to (23/4 M.) —
121/2 M. Wiesen, Rom. Tein (4720'; ndt.-PenK. Belleme &
Palmy, pens. 6-8 fr.), on the sunny S. slope of the Rothhornstock,
high aboTe the Landwasser, sheltered from the N. and N.E. winds
To the S., beyond the deep gorge of the Landwasser, on the green
slopes of the Stulsergrat (8790'), lies Jenisberg. Farther distant arc
the huge Tinzenhorn (10,4.30') and the Pis Michel (10,375').
Walks. To the Tiefen/obel (see below), 20 min. ; the road comraantls
a beautiful view of the Tinzenhorn, Pi/ Michel, and Piz d'Aela; farther
on i.s (40 rain.) SchmUten. Beyond the Tiefcntobel we may descend t()('/4 hr.)
Bodmen (4162'), with its ruinous houses ; pleasant forest-path thence into the
gorge of the Landwasser, to the T/ieer/iiitfe, and to the Leidhoden (20 min.) ;
then either return to (^ji hr.) Wiesen. or cross the stream and traverse fine
larch-forest interspersed with plea.sant >;lades to (Ihr.) Filisur (p. 378). — To
the(35min.) "Jenisberg Bndge(3900'),'I7'd' above theLandquart. A few paces
to the left, before reaching the bridge, we have a fine view of the Kdnzeli
Waterfall. From the bridge a steep ascent to (li/4hr.) Jenisherg (5010'); then
by a path, very rough at places, high above the Ziigenstrasse, with fine
views of the Davos valley, to the (l'/4 hr.) Schmelzhoden Hoffnungsait
(p. 3.53). — To the ('^ hr.) "Bdrenifilt, and by the romantic Ziigcn.ifratse
to the Uoffiningsau foundry and to Davos (p. 352). — The Wie-ienci' Alp
(6310'; good forest -path, I'/a hr.) is a good point of view; a finer is the
"Sandhvhel {%<y^Q'), ascended from the Alp in 2V2 brs. (riding practicable).
Boyond Wiesen (1 M.) the road crosses the profound Tiefcntobel
(with a large avalanche -bulwark above it), and passes through a
tunnel. The church of(2M.) Schmitten, Roman. Farrera (4150';
Adler; Kreuz; Krone'), on a grassy hill, now becomes visible. Below
the village the Albula unites with the Landwasser.
To Filisur (p. 378). Walkers may take a footpath which diverges from
the road to the left near the church, descends in a wide curve, crosses
the .Sehmitterba^ih, and joins the Albula road before the (','■,■ hr.) bridge
across the Landwasser between Bad Alveneu and Filisur. — From Wiesen
across the Leidbodcn to (I'/s hr.) Filisur (boy as guide), see above.
The road crosses the Schmittertobel to (IV2 ^0 Alvaneu, Rom.
Alvagne (3887'). To the S.E. we obtain a pleasant view of the
Bergiin Valley, separated from the valley of the Landwasser by the
Stulsergrat (8790') ; in the background rises the Albulahorn (^Piz
Vertsch, 10,738'). Beyond Alvaneu the road remains on the hill
for a short distance, and then descends by a long curve into the
large Crapanaira Tobel, where it divides. [The road to Tiefen-
kasten (used also by the Albula diligence, p. 378) descends to
Surava (Bad Alvaneu lies to the left, see p. 378), in the Albula
valley, and leads to (51/2 M.) Tiefenkasten (p. 381), 10 M. from
to Coke. LANGWIES. 93. Route. 355
Wiesen.] The road to Coire follows the hill-side, and crosses a cover-
ed wooden bridge at the base of the castle of Belfort (3576'),
destroyed in 1499, a picturesque ruin on an almost inaccessible
rock. Then f3 M.) Brienz 03713'"), and (2 M.) —
22 M. Lenz (p. 381); thence to Churwalden and (14 M.)
Coire, 36 M. from Davos-Dorfli, see li. 100.
93. From Coire to Davos through the Schanfiggthal.
Arosa.
Comp. Map, p. 400.
From Coire to Langwies, 13V2 M., diligence daily in 41/4 hrs. (4 fr.
40 c); carriage with one hor'sc 20. two horses 35 fr. From Langwies to
Davos, by the Strela Pass, bridle-path in 4V2 hrs. (guide or horse 10 fr.);
to Arosa bridle-path or foot-path in 2V2 hrs. (road being made), horse
10 fr. and fee of 80 c. The diligence does not take packages weighing
more than 11 lbs. ; all heavier luggage must be sent by hired horses.
Coire, see p. 345. Immediately outside the town the road
begins to ascend the steep slope of the Mittenberg (p. 347), and
beyond a rooky cleft it commands a line retrospect of Coire and
the valley of the Rhine. Below (3 M.) Maladers (3320') it enters
the picturesque Schanfiggthal, with its woods and meadows. The
Plessur, far below in its wooded gorge, is fed by many affluents
from both sides. Beside the bridge which spans the deep ravine
of the Calfreiser Tobel is a pretty waterfall, and a little beyond it
is another rocky cleft, through which the road passes to (3 M.)
Calfreisen (4093'), to the left of which, above the road, rises the
ruin of Bemegg. Crossing the Castieler Tobel, we next reach
Castiel (3958' ; Hemmi, good wine). The road now winds along
the mountain-slopes, maintaining a tolerably uniform level and
crossing the Glnsaurer Tobel and the Gross- Tobel, to (8^/4 M.)
St. Peter (4126'; Pens. Badrutf, 4 fr., well spoken of), and goos
on by Peist (4382'; Inn) and over the Peister Tobel, the Frauen
Tobel, and the Grundje Tobel, to (33/4 M.) —
I3V2 M. Langwies (4516' ; Pens. Mattli, 41/9-6 fr. ; Bar), the
chief place of the Schanfigg, occupying a sheltered position at the
foot of the Strela Pass. To the S. opens the Arosn-Thal (p. 356).
From Langwies to Kubms bt the Duranna Pass, 5 hrs , an easv
and attractive route. A bridle path ascends by Fondei or Strassberr; (6274')
to the (2V2 hrs) marshy summit of the pa,«s (6966), between the Weisxfltih
(see below) on the right, iind the Kistenstein (3134') on the left. View of
the Rhaeticon chain, etc. We descend by the Fideriser Alps to (2 hrs.)
Conters (3716'), whence a carriage-road leads to (','2 hr.) Kiiblis (p. 349). —
The 'Weissfluh (9345') may be ascended in 3V2 brs. from Langwies, either
via Fondei or via the I/aupter Alps near the Strela Pass (easy and attrac-
tive; descent if desired to Havos, comp. p. 352).
Arosa, which has lately come into favour as a health-resort
both in summer and in winter, may be reached in 2^/2 hrs. from
Langwies either by means of a bridle-path, the first part of which
23*
356 Route 03. AROSA.
1s very miry even in dry weather, or by means of a slightly shorter
but stony foot-path on the left bank of the Plessur. The latter is
the preferable route. (A new road will be ready in 1889.) The
two paths unite before reaching (1 hr.) LUzenruti. Thence the
route leads through wood to the (1/4 hr.) *Pens. Seehof (5707' ;
4-4*/2 fr.), situated on the little Vntersee in the Seegruhe, or lower
part of Arosa, and skirts the lake on the right (the larger Obersee
lies 1/4 M. to the N.) to the *Pens. Rothhorn (4-5 fr. ; post and
telegraph office), and to the Hot.-Pens. Arosa (4:1/2-572 fr.), both
of which command fine views. A little aside and somewhat lower
lies the *Pens. Waldhaiis [i^/2-6^/2 fr.). About ^/^ M. farther, in
the village proper, are the *Pens. Brunold, the *Kurhaus Arosa
(6035'; 6'/2-8 fi"-)' ^^^^ t^^ Sanatorium Beryhilf, in a sunny situa-
tion (good winter residence). These houses are all generally full
in summer, and travellers who have not engaged rooms in advance
are liable to disappointment.
ExcuKSiONS. From the Secgrube past the Obersee to the (V2 hr.)
hamlet of Maran (6036'; rustic inn) and to the (1 hr.) Churer Alpen (see
below). (Boats for hire on both Obersee and Untersee.) — From the See-
hof to the (1 hr.) pretty waterfall in the Welschtohel. — From the Kur-
haus to the top of the Tsckiiggen (6727'; V2 hr. ; easy). From the Kurhaus
to the (1 hr.) blue Schwellisee (6294') and the (V4 hr.) Aelplisee (7052') at
the foot of the Rothhorn (see below). — The Aroser Weisshorn (8708';
2'/2 hrs. from the Kurhaus, with guide) is an easy and attractive ascent.
— The 'Aroser Kothhorn (9787'; splendid view) is most conveniently as-
cended through the Welschtohel (d'/z hrs., with guide); the descent past
the Aelpelisee and the Schwellisee takes 2V2 hrs.
Passes. From Aeo.sa to Davos by the Meyenfelder Furka (8020')
between the Furkahorn (8948') and the Amselffuh (9135'), 5 hrs. to Frmien-
fcirch (p. 353), shorter but not so attractive as the Strela Pass. • — To Coire
by the Churer Alp, Tschiertschen (4430'; Inn), and Prada, 6 hrs., the
shortest route for walkers; a more fatiguing route leads over the Car-
mennaPass (7796'). between the Weisshorn and the Plattenhorn, with a steep
descent to the Urdenthal and to Tschiertschen. — To Parpan. 4V2-5 hrs.
with guide (10 fr.) , attractive; we pass to the S. of the Hornli (8190' to
the Vrder Augstberg (7380') with its small lake, and cross the IJrden Fiirkli
(8528), between the Parpaner Weisshorn and the Parpaner ScMoarzhorn, to
Parpan (p. 380). — To Alvaneu through the Welschtohel and across the
Furcletta (8452') to the E. of the Pit Naira (9420), descending by the
Alp dil Ouert and the Alvaneuer Maiensdsse, 5-Q hrs. with guide, toilsome
but attractive.
From Langwies to Davos, 41/2 hrs. The bridle-path (guide
unnecessary; road projected) over the Strela Pass crosses the
Fondeier Brook and ascends (keep to the right) through woods and
meadows 'past Eg<jen, Dorfli, Schmitten, and Kilpfen (all belonging
to the parish of Sapuri) to the (3 hrs.) Strela Pass (7796' ; fine
view), between the Strela (8646') on the right, and the Schia-
horn (8900'; easily ascended from the pass in 1 hr. ; see p. 353)
on the left. We descend to the (8/4 hr.) Strela Alp (6494') and
thence either to the right by the Schatz-Alp to (3/4 hr.) Davos-
Platz (p. 352) or to the left to (1 hr.) Davos Dorfli (p. 352).
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357
94. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp.
See Maps, pp. 356, lo2.
63 M. Diligence twice daily in 141/2 hrs. (24 fr. 25, coupe 29 fr. 10 c),
once via Flims, and once by the new road via Bonaduz , a night in this
case being spent at Disentis. — Extra-Post with two horses from Coire
to Andermatt 157 fr., with three horses 215 fr.; to Goschenen 155 fr. 40 c.
and 227 fr. — Carriage with one horse from Coire to Reichenau 6 fr. ; with
two horses to Reichenau 12, Flims 30, Ilanz 45, Disentis 80, Andermatt 135,
Goschenen 145 fr. ; from Go,schenen to Disentis 70, to Coire 150 fr.; from
Andermatt to Hisentis 50-60, to Coire or Thusis 130-135, to St. Moritz or
Samaden 270 fr. ; fee 10«/o of the fare.
Coire, see p. 845. Beyond the Plessur bridge the road diverges
to the right , passing Eosang's Stiftung (an agricultural school).
Beyond the Rhine, at the foot of the Calanda (p. 341), lies the village
of Felsberg, which is menaced with a fate similar to that of Goldau
(p. 100). Part of the rock fell in 1850. The road passes through the
large village of (4 M.) Ems, Rom. Domaf [1880 Q, with the scanty
ruins of the castle of Oberems. The mounds of earth here and near
Reichenau are probably remains of an old moraine. Near Reichenau
the road crosses the Rhine by an iron bridge.
6 M. Beichenau (1936'; *Adler')^ a hamlet at the confluence of
the Vorder-Rhein and the Hinter-Rhein. The best view of the
rivers is obtained from a pavilion in the garden of M. de Planta,
adjoining the Adler. At their junction, the Vorder-Rhein, in spite
of its superior volume , is driven back by the boisterous Hinter-
Rhein, which descends from the Bernardino. To the W. towers the
Brigelser Horn. The pleasant garden is open to visitors, and may
be seen during the halt of the diligence ; curious old inscription
on the gardener's house. The Chateau, opposite the entrance to
the garden, erected by the Bishops of Coire , and named by them
after the Abbey of Reichenau on the Lake of Constance (p. 24),
now belongs to Dr. A. v. Planta. In 1793 Louis Philippe sought
refuge here under the name of Chabot , and a room in the con-
dition in which he used it and other memorials of his visit still
exist (fee 1 fr.).
From Reichenau to Thusis (Via Mala) and over the Spliigen to Colico,
see R. 96; by the Bernardino to Bellimona, see R. 98. — Schyn- Road
from Thusis to Tiefenkasten, see p. 369; Kunkels Pass to Ragalz. see p. 344.
'New Road from Reichenau to Ilanz, 131/2 M., on the right bank of
the Rhine (diligence daily, see above). From Reichenau to (1 M.) Bona-
duz , see p. 367. The road here diverges to the right from the Spliigen
road. For l>/2 M. it is perfectly straight and level; then, gradually as
cending, it traverses wood for 3/4 M., beyond which it leads high above
the picturesque Vorder-Rheinthal, hewn in the rock at places, and com-
manding a fine view. The bold construction of the road is itself inter-
esting. We next (1/2 31.) turn sharply to the left into the picturesque
valley of the Rabiusa fp. 358), and descend gradually, passing through
a short tunnel, to l',.i M.j a covered wooden bridge over the Versamer
Tobel (2392'; 260' above the stream). We now ascend through pine-woods
by numerous windings (which walkers may cut ofl") to (2 M.) Versam (2982' ;
Joos, rustic), a charmingly situated village, with a fine view After a level
stretch of l'/2 S'-, the road descends towards the valley of the Vorder-
Rhein, of which we have a striking view. Opposite, on the left bank.
358 Route 9d. FLIMS. From Coke
high above the river, lies Laax (p. 359). Further offj on the same bank,
rises the Brigelser Horn (p. 361). We next reach (1 M.) Carrerci. Still
descending, we cross a picturesijue ravine, pass through a roclv-tunnel,
and reach (1 M.) Valendas (2700' ; Krone, rustic). Again descending, with
a fine view before us, we next pass ('2'/2 M.j Kiisiris , and cross the
(IV4M.) broad stony bed of the Olenner to ('/< M.) Jtam (p. 359).
Through the Safier Thai, a valley watered liy the Rahitisa, a new
road leads from Versam to the S. to (12 M.) Hafien-Flatz (4255'; Inn), with
a fine fall of the Carnusa on the left. Bridle-path thence over the large
Alp Camana to Thalkirch (5545') and the (2V2 hrs.) Curtiiatscherhof (5907')
at the head of the valley, with a splendid waterfall. Then a steep ascent
to the (2 hrs.) pass of the Sajierberg or Lochliberg (SnCK), from which the
path descends the Stutzalp to (IV2 hr.) Spliigen (p. 372). — To the E. of
Saflen-Platz an easy route, the Olas Pass (6056'), crosses the Ueinzenhery,
and leads through the villages of Tschappina and Urmein, to (4 hrs.) Thusis
(p. 368).
The KoAD ON THE Left Bank ascends from Reichenau to (3/4 M.)
Tamins (2246' ; Post), Rom. Tumein, where, particularly from the
church-hill , we obtain an admirable survey of the Domleschy (p.
368) and its numerous villages, with the Piz Carver (9760') in the
background; to the W. is the Vorder-Rheinthal with the Vnterhorn
(9180') and the Piz liiein (9030'). The Lavoi, descending on the
right beyond Tamins, forms a fine waterfall after rain. At (2 M.)
Trins (2820'; Post) rises the ruined castle of Hohentrins. At ('/2M.)
Digg the road turns suddenly to the N. , passes through a cutting
(Porclas), and at the base of the precipitous Flimser Stein (see be-
low) sweeps round the Seeboden, a nearly circular basin enclosed
by wooded hiUs. Near (1 1/2 M.) Mulins (2720'; Inn), picturesquely
situated, are several waterfalls on the right. To the left, farther on,
is the small Cresta Lake, surrounded by pines. About 2 M. farther is —
13'/2 M. Flims (3616'; *IJ6t.- Pens. Bellevue, at the upper
end, good beer; Acola's Inn, well spoken of), Rom. Flein , an
ancient little town with several mansions of the Capaul family,
which afterwards belonged to the Salis.
Excursions (Guides, Joos, Casult, and others). A picturesque walk
may be taken to the Fleinbach Waterfall and the Runca Bridge (20 min.).
— Flimserstein {Crap da Flem, 8845'; 5 hrs. ; guide G fr., unnecessary),
easy and repaying. The path ascends gradually by Fidaz; then through
Wood, round the S.E. angle of the mountain, to the (l^/i hr.) pastures
of Bargis. Here we ascend to the left by a good path to the hilly
plateau of the Alp Sura (6896'; milk and bread; '/-i ^r. to the S. of
which is a rock alTording a good survey of the Oberland Mts. and the
Todi). In 2 hrs. more we ascend to the arete and the summit, where we
obtain a splendid view, especially towards the N., of the Ringelspitz and
Piz Dolf. We may descend to the N.W. towards Segnes, and return to
Flims by the Cassons and Foppa Alps. — Vorab (9925'; G'/^-? hrs. ; 20 fr.),
a very line point, also easy (comp. p. 68). F^rom Flims to the brink of
the Bilndnerbergfirn , which has receded greatly, 41/2 hrs.; then up the
easy glacier to tlie (2 hrs.) summit, ccjnsisting of fragments of slate. Superb
view, particularly of the neighbouring Todi group; also of the Sernf-Thal
and the Bernese Alps from the (20 min.) N. peak, the, Elmer Vorab (9910').
— Ringelspitz (10,660'; 8 hrs. ; 25 fr.), difficult, only for experts.
Over the Segnes Pass to Elm (8 hrs. ; guide 12 fr.), see p. 68. The Mar-
iinsloch (p. 68) may be reached in 4-5 hrs. from Flims (guide 18 fr.). — A
visit to the upper Segnes Glacier {Seg7ies Sura; guide 10 fr.) hardly repays
the fatigue.
to Goschenen. ILANZ. 9d. Route. 359
The road leads through the valley of the Flembach and crosses
over to the (1 M.) Waldhauser (3615'; *H6t. Segues, R. 21/2, B.
IY4, pens. 8-9 fr. ; 1/2 ^I- farther, on a hill a few min. to the right
of the road, the large and well- situated *KuranstaU Waldhaus-
Flims, with four 'dependances', R. , L., & A. from S^/2, D. 4, board
7 fr.), a pleasant summer resort, with beautiful pine and beech
woods. Near it is the FLimser See or Cauma Lake (3280'), embo-
somed in wood, without visible outlet. Pleasant swimming and other
baths (1/2 fr.), to which a path descends in 20 minutes.
Traversing sequestered dales and skirting the deep Laaxer
Tobel on the left, we next reach (2 M.) Laax (3356'; *H6t.-Pens.
Seehof, close to the Laaxer See, with baths, pens. 7-8 fr.). (A
road to the right ascends in 1/2 ^'i'- to the lofty village of Fellers,
Rom. Fallera, 3997'; splendid *View.) We now descend into the
Rhine Valley (passing Sagens far below, to the left) and reach
Schleuis (2507'j, with the old chateau of Lowenberg, once the seat
of the De Mont family, now an orphan- asylum. Opposite lies
the large village of Kdstris (p. 358). Before us, above llanz, rises
the Piz Mundaun.
201/2 M. Ilanz, Rom. Glion (2355'; pop. 775; *Hut. Oberalp,
R., L., & A. 4, B. 11/2 fr. ; Hot. Rhatia, on the right bank, by the
bridge; Lukmanier, on the left bank, D. 31/2 fr. ; Hot. Zum
Grauen Bund, new; Krone, plain ; one-horse carr. to Disentis 20 fr.
and fee), mentioned in a charter of the 8th cent, as the 'first town
on the Rhine', built on both sides of the river, was the capital of
the 'Gray League' (p. 344). The upper part has narrow streets, and
old-fashioned houses adorned with armorial bearings. The population
is partly Romanic, partly German; Romanic alone is spoken higher
up the valley. Ilanz is beautifully situated, overlooking the Rhine
Valley in both directions, and the broad Lugnetz Valley to the S.
The views are still finer from the old Church of St. Martin (2570'),
V4 hr. to the S., on the left slope of the Lugnetz Valley, and from the
chapel of the pretty village of Luvis (3280'), V2 lir. higher. A most superb
prospect of the Grisons Oberland, and especially of the Todi chain to the N'.,
immediately opposite, and of the Rhine Valley down to Zizers (p. 341),
is commanded by the Piz Mundaun or Piz Grand (6775'). This peak rises
to the S.W. of llanz in wooded slopes, above which are pastures extending
nearly to the top. The path (4 hrs. ; guide, not indispensable, 5 fr.
leads by Luvis (see above), ascends on the S.E. side of the wood, crosses
a flat basin obliquely towards the left , and mounts the pastures to the
conspicuous (2V2 hrs.) Inn (closed and falling to decay). Then in the
same direction, through a depression in the mountain, to the crest, which
we ascend to the W. to the top in 1 hr. more. The medieeval chapel of
S. Carlo remains to the left. Those who intend visiting the Lugnetz Valley
(p. 309) may descend direct to Villa (p. 360; thence to the top 2 hrs.,
best way to reach it, guide 3 fr.), or by Morissen (4420'; wine at the cure's)
to (2 hrs.) Cumbels (p. 360). — Travellers bound for Disentis, instead
of returning to Ilanz, may follow a beautiful path through the district of
Obersaxen, the chief village of which is Maierhof, and reach Truns (p.
361) in 3 hrs. (gnide advisable). — Those who ascend the Piz Mundaun
from Truns diverge from the road about 3 M. below the village, by the
telegraph-post No. 222, to the right, and ascend by a good path, at first
through wood. Farther on it overlooks the Rhine A'alley and passes the
360 Route 94. LUGNETZ VALLEY. From Coke
ruin ol Axenstein. After 2 hrs. , beyond the chapel oi St. Valentin, by
a crucifix on this side of a ravine , we descend to the left into the val-
ley and reach (1/2 hr.) Maierhof (4272'; 'Casanova, rustic). Then up sunny
pastures to the top of the Piz Mundaun in 2'/2 hrs. more.
The Lugnetz Valley, watered by the Glenner , 18 M. in length (pop.
Rom. Cath. and Komanic), is one of the finest in the Orisons. Road to
Vals-Platz (14 JI.; diligence from Ilanz daily in 4 hrs. 20 min.; fare 3 fr.
30c.) on the left bank, past the ruin of Kaslelberg and through the (3 M.)
Frauent/wr, Rom. Porclas (3336'), once the key to the upper valley. On
the opposite bank of the Glenner, high above the Rieiner Tobel , lies the
village of Riein, and beyond it are Pilasch and Duvin. Beyond (3/4 M-) the
chapel of St. Moritz (3504') the road divides ; that to the right ascends to
Villa and Vrin (see below) ; that to the left descends to the village of Peiden
and the (IV2 M.) sequestered Peidner Bad (2(jdO'}, on the right bank of the
Glenner, at the mouth of the Duviner Tobel (a haunt of the chamois), with
three chalybeate springs. Then (IV2 M.) /"(/;•< A (2980'; '-Schmid's Inn; Piz
Mundaun) , at the confluence of the Vriner and VaUer Rhein, which are
separated by the Piz Aul (10,250'). Opposite lies the picturesque Oberkasiels
(3274'). We now ascend the wild Valser Thai., or Si. Peterst/ial, by St.
Martin, Ltinsc/iania, and Campo to (71/4 M.) Vals-Platz (4094'; 'Pent. Albin,
"H6tel Piz Aul, both plaint , or St. Peter, from which a well-trodden
bridle-path leads through the Peiler Thai, a side-valley to the S.E., to
the Vallatsch Alp (6178'), the Valser Berg (82'25'), and (5 hrs.) Kufenen or
Hinterrhein (p. 375). The ' Weissensteinhorn or Piz Tomill (9675'; 4 hrs.;
guide 7fr.), ascended from Vals-Platz, is an admirable point of view; an-
other is the Bdrenhorn (9620'; 4 hrs., with guide) : from both we may descend
into the Safier Thai (p. 358). The Piz Aul (1U,250') is difficult (better from
Vrin, see below). To Vrin over the Fuorcla da Patnaul (9113'), to the S.,
between the Piz Aul and the Faltschonhorn, or over the Sattelleliicke (9082'),
between Piz Aul and Piz Seranastga, both laborious (6-7 hrs.; with guide).
The S.W. branch of the valley (Val Zervreila), watered by the Valser
Rhein, divides at the hamlet of Zervreila (5840'; poor Inn), S'A brs. above
Vals-Platz, into the Lentathal to the S.W. and the Kanallhal to the S. —
A toilsome route, requiring a guide, leads through the latter, across the
Kanal Glacier and the Zapporlgrat (9314'), and down the Plaltenschlucht
to the Zapportthal and (9 hrs.) Hinterrhein (p. 375). — In the grand and
interesting Lentathal, 1 hr. above Zerveila, is the beautiful Lampertsch-
Alp , or Sorreda-Alp (65F0'; bed of hay). Thence over the Vernok or
Vanescha Pass (9806') to Vrin (see below) in 6-7 hrs., not difficult; over
the Sorreda or Scaradra Pass (9088') to Olivone (p. 367), 8 hrs., both routes
toilsome; over the jyen(a/«cie (9692') to Hinterrhein (9-10 hrs.) difficult, for
experts only, with good guides.
The road ascending to the right by the chapel of St. Moritz (see above)
leads to Cumbels and Villa (4080'; Post, rustic); then a bridle-path to Vigens,
Lumbrein , and (4 hrs.) Vrin (4770'; Casanova, poor), the principal village
in the Vrinthal or Upper Lugnetz Valley. From Vrin we may easily ascend
the I'iz Regina (8294'; 4 hrs. ; guide advisable), a fine point. Piz Cavel
(9660'; 6-6 hrs.), ascended by the Hamosa Alp and the Fuorcla de Ramosa
(8694'), also ea.sy; descent to the N. to the Cavel-Joch (p. 362), if preferred.
Piz Aul (10,250'; 6-7 hrs. ; with guide; superb view), by the Seranastga Alp,
difficult, for adepts only. Piz Terri (9996'), also difficult, is ascended from
the Vanescha Alp, 1^4 hr. from Vrin, in 5 hrs., by the Blengias Alp and
the Giida Glacier. Route over the Vanescha Pass to Zervreila, see above
Over the Cavel-Joch to Somvix, see p. 362. — From Vrin, with a guide (to
Olivone 18 fr.), we ascend past the mouth of the Val Vanescha (see above),
to St. Giusepp, Puzatsch, the Alp Diesrul , and the (3 hrs.) Pass Diesrut
(7953'), on the S. side of the Piz Tgietschen (9377'). Descent to the Camona
Alp (7333'), at the head of the Val Somvix (p. 361), and again a gradual
ascent, passing the Piz Vial (10,387') and the Piz Gaglianera (10,243') on the
right, and the Piz Co roi (9130') on the left, to the Greina Pass (/'asso Crap,
7743'). We next descend through the wild Val Camadra or upper part of the
Val Blegno, with the Piz Medel (10,510') on tlie W., by Daigra, Cozzera,
and Ghirone, to (S'/z hrs.) Olivone (p. 367). Or, halfway between the Ca-
to Ooschenen. TRUNS. 94. Route. 361
mona Alp and the Grelna Pass , we may cross the low Monlerascio Pass
(7415'), to the left, to the Monlerascio Alp, and descend the picturesque
Val Luzzcne to Lorciolo, Cavallo, Davresco, and Olivone (shorter than the
Greina route).
Road from Ilanz by Venam to Bonaduz and Reichenau, see p. 357. —
From Ilanz to Elm over the Panixer Pass or the Selher Ftirka, see p. 68.
To Zinththal over the Eisten Pass, see p. 63.
The road follows the N. side of the narrow Rhine Valley, here
called Pardella; beyond (1 M.) Schnaus it crosses the Sether-Bach,
and beyond (1 V2 ^-J ^'"'* > beautifully situated on the hill to the
right, the Panixer- Bach. On a rocky hill to the right rise the
picturesque ruins of the robbers' stronghold of Jorgenberg (3100').
To the right, 1 31. above the bridjie of Ruis, a road (diligence from
Ilanz daily in 2 hrs. 20 min.), commanding fine views, ascends bv the vil-
lage of Waltensburg (3300') to (4 31.) Brigels (4230'; -Hot.- Pens.' Capaul;
Hot. Kistenpass, well spoken of), a summer resort, prettily situated amid
pastures. Above it the f^al Frisal, with the glacier of that name, ascends to
the Biferlenstock (11.240'), which, as well as the Piz Frisal (10,810') and the
Brigelser Horn (10,663'), may be ascended from the Val Frisal (all dif-
ficult ; see below).
Farther on, the scenery is inferior. To the right rises the Bri-
gelser Horn (see above^ The stream is crossed near (4Y.2 M.) Tava-
nasa(2622'; *Kreuz), and again near (3 M.) Zignau or Rinkenberg.
High up on the N. slope lies Brigels (see above) ; then Dardina and
Schlans. Before reaching Rinkenberg we observe on the left the
stony chaos formed by the inundations of the Zignauer Bach de-
scending from the Zavragia Ravine. By the bridge we enjoy a de-
lightful view, embracing numerous villages, chapels, and ruined
castles on the richly clothed slopes.
We next pass (i^jo M.) the Chapel of St. Anna, on the right,
marking the spot where the 'Upper' or '■Gray League' (p. 344) was
founded in March, 1424. The solemn oath of the League was after-
wards renewed at intervals of ten years down to 1778. The ceiling
of the porch is adorned with frescoes, Latin texts, and doggerel
verses, renewed in 1836. A few paces farther is —
32 M. Truns (2822'; * Krone; Zum Tbdi~). The hall of the old
Statthalterei of the abbey of Disentis is adorned with the arms of the
members of the Gray League, and of the magistrates since 1424.
The Val Funtaiglas, ascending rapidly to the N., ends in the Puntai-
glas Glacier. Ascent of 2 hrs. from Truns to the Alp Puntaiglas (about
SCfiO"), with a fine view of the Brigelser Horn, Piz Blut, Piz Ker, etc. The
S. peaks of the Todi group, Piz Urlaun (11,060'), Bundner Todi (10,226'),
and Brigelser Horn (or Kavestrau Grand, 10,663'; very difficult), may be
ascended hence. Ascent of the TiJdi-Rusein by the Gliemspforte, see p'. 63.
Beyond (1^/4 M.) Rabius (3133') we obtain a glimpse, to the
left, of the grand Piz Gaglianera (10,243'), with its glaciers, at the
head of the Val Somvix. Then (IY2 M.) Somvix {^summus vicus';
3458'), conspicuously situated on a height, as its name intimates.
The Val Somviz , which here opens to the S. , deserves a visit.
We cross the Rhine to ('/4 hr.) Surrhein, and ascend by a good bridle-
path on the left side of the valley, through wood and pastures, to Val and
the (IV2 hr.) Somvixer or Teniger Bad (4176'; unpretending). Farther up
(V2 hr.), we pass the Alp Vallenigia, where the glaciers of the Piz Vial
362 Route 94. DISENTIS. From Coire
(10,387') are revealed, and the mouth of the Val Lavaz, and reach (1 hr.)
the rock-girt head of the valley, where the Oreina forms a fine water-
fall on the left. The path ascends steeply on the K. side of the valley
to the rocky defile of La Fronscha, and divides higher up : to the left
to the Diesrut Pass (p. 360), and to the right to the Greina Pass (p. 3BU).
— Passes. From the Teniger Bad (p. 361) over the Cavel-Joch (8320')
to Villa, 7 hrs., not difficult. From the pass the Piz Cavel (9660'; line view)
may be ascended in V/2 hr. — Over the Valgronda-Joch (9120') to Tava-
nasa or Maierhof, 7-8 hrs.; with guide. — (Jvke the Lavaz-Jouh to
CuKAGUA, 7-8 hrs., with guide, a very fine route. From the Teniger Bad
(p. 361) we ascend on the left side of the valley, through wood and
rhododendrons, to the Alp Renliert, where from the heap of stones (6640')
we get a splendid view of the Todi. We may now either cross the Fuor-
cla de aiavelatsch (8376') to the right, or turn to the left and skirt the E.
slopes of Piz Reniiert (keeping to the right on the hill, by the chalet of
Rentiert-Dadens), to the (2 hrs.) chalet of Stavelatsch (7682') in the Val La-
vaz. Opposite are the two glaciers descending from the Piz Vial and Piz
Gaglianera (10,243') and the Lavaz Glacier. Then to the Lavaz-Joch (8232')
an easy ascent of ^/i hr. ; the ridge to the N. of the pass commands a
fine survey of the Medelser Glacier and of the Bernese Alps to the W.
Steep descent over grassy slopes to the Alp Sura (6526'), and through Val
PlatUis to (2 hrs.) Curaglia (p. 365).
The road between Somvix and Disentis is very boldly constructed.
A loity wooden bridge (^2'/4 M.) carries it over the profound Ruseiner
Tobel. (Below, to the right, a flnger-post indicates the path to the
Sandalp Pass ; see p. 363.) Above the (^ji M.) Stalusa Bridge is a
small waterfall. Near (I74 ^^O I^isentis, on the left, is the Disen-
tiser Hof, built on the site of the chateau of Castelberg, which was
burned down in 1880.
3972 M. Disentis (3773'; pop. 1333; Desertinum, Disiert, i.e.
desert) Rom. Muster (*I)isentiser Hof ,v/\t\i fine view, high charges,
R., L., & A. 4-6, D. 41/2; S. 21/2, pens. 9 fr., whey and chalybeate
water; *H6tel Krone; opposite to it, *H6tel Condrau zur Post; at
both, R., L., & A. S^/o-i fr.), a small town with a Benedictine
abbey, is protected against avalanches by a forest. The foundation
of the abbey in the 7th cent, soon brought Christianity into the
remote valleys of the Orisons ; and the abbots , enriched by liberal
endowments, afterwards acquired great power in Rhsetia. The large
abbey-buildings, on a height, now contain a school.
Near Disentis the Medelser-Rhein or Mittel-Rhein (p. 36.")) unites
with the Vorder-Rhein. A tine view (especially by evening-light)
is obtained of the Medelser Glacier, and far down the valley, from
the Chapel of Acletta, at the entrance to the Acletta Valley (4236'),
1/2 hr. W. of Disentis, to the right of the road to Sedrun.
Excursions. (Ouides: J. I'etschen, the schoolmaster; J. M. Schuoler,
hunter; P. Tenner and Jos. Huonder.) Walk on the new "Ltikmanier Road
to (ky/-i M.) Curarjlia (p. 365), interesting. Also by the chapel of St. Gada,
with old frescoes, to Mompe-Medel (1 hr.), on the right bank of the Rhine,
with fine view. To Crest-Miitaisch ('/a hr.); Alp Lumpegnia (l'/-jhr.), etc.
The fine pyramid of *Piz Muraun (9510' ; 5V-2 hrs. from Disentis) is best
ascended from Curaglia (4 hrs. ; guide 8 fr., p. 365). Superb view, especially
of the Todi group, grander than from Piz Mundaun (p. 359). — Piz Pazzola,
see p. 363; Piz Medel, Piz CristalHna, see p. 366. — Crap Alv (9784') and
Piz Ault (9957'), from the Val Acletta (each 5 hrs.; not difficult).
From Disentis over the Lukmanier (6290') to Olivone, see p. 365; through
to Goschenm. SEDRUN. 94. Route. 363
the Val Piora to Airolo, see p. 105. — Ovek the Sandalp Pass to Sta-
CHELBERG, 11-12 hrs., with guide (26 fr.), trying. W a ascend the Val Rusein
(p. 362) to the Sandalp Pass (Sandgrat; 9120') between the Lesser Todi
or Crap Olarun (10,072'J on the E. , and the Catsc/iarauls (10,050') on the
W., and descend the Hand-Firn to the Upper Sandalp. Thence to Lintht/ial,
see p. 63. — Ascent of the Todi by the J'orta da Spescfia, and descent to
Linththal, lS-19 hrs., for thorough adepts only, with able guides (see p. 63).
From Disentis over the Bkuxni Pa.ss (8875') to the Maderaner Thai (to the
Hot. Alpenclub 8-9 hrs. ; guide 20tr.), see p. 114.
The road to (I91/2 M.) Andermatt, which lies lower than
the old route, ascends the dale of Tavetsch, leaving the hamlets
Acletta, Seynas, and Mompe Tavetsch (4584') to the right. From
the height, where the road enters a wood, we obtain a beautiful
view of the Disentis district, which is very striking when approached
from Andermati. The valley contracts. The road traverses woods
and pastures , overlooking the infant Rhine- in its deep valley, and
in view of th« snow-clad mountains which we now approach.
45 M. Sedrun (4587'; *Krone), locally known as Tavetsch,
sometimes Sadrun, is the principal village in the Val Tavetsch.
The church contains an old altar in carved wood.
The *Piz Fazzola (8473'; 4 hrs.; guide unnecessary), to the S., be-
tween the Val Medel (p. 365) and the Val Gierin , is worth visiting. We
cross the Rhine to Hurr/iein, and the gorge of the Val ifalps (see below) to
the ('/2 hr.) Alpine hamlet of Cavoryia (4426') ; then cross the Gierm and
ascend to the right, over pastures and through wood, to the (lV2hr.) Paz-
zola Alp (6150'), with a fine view, and (2 hrs.) the top without difliculty.
Magnilicent view, particularly of the Todi and the Medel Mts.
In the lonely Val Nalps, the head of which is enclosed by lofty
mountains and glaciers, 3 hrs. from Sedrun, lies the Alp Nalps (5991'), and
2 hrs. higher is the Ujierii But (7550'), the starting-point for the Piz del
Laiblau (9720'), Piz Rundadura (9905'; comp. p. 366), Piz Bias (9918'), Piz
Vfiern (9900'), Piz Git (9744'), Piz Seremjia (9803'), etc. (each about 3 hrs.).
A tolerably easy route (with steep descent) leads hence across the Nalps
Pass (9035') to the Val Cadlimo and the Uomo Pass (p. 106). Another
(trying) leads to the E. over the Eondadura Pass (8904') to the Hospice of
is. Maria (p. 366). A third crosses the col between the Piz Furcla and
the Piz Paradis to the Val Cornera (p. 364).
Fkom Sedrun to Amsteg over the Kriizll Pass (7645'), 8 hrs., rather
trying (guide 15 fr.). The steep path ascends the bleak rocky Strimthal,
at the head of which the pass lies to the left (W.), at the S. base of the
Weitenalpstock (p. 114). Guide necessary only to the point beyond the pass
where the Etzlihach, descending from the Spiellau-See to the W., becomes
visible. We cross the stream to Culma (6322') , the highest Alp, and des-
cend the Etzlithal , past the chalets of the Ilintere and Vordere Etzlialp
to Bristen and Amsteg (comp. p. 114). — The Oberalpstock (Piz Tgietsc/ten,
10,925') may also be ascended from Sedrun (6 hrs.; 15 tr.); comp. p. 113.
From Sedrun the road leads through Camischolas , Zarcuns, and
(172^-) Rueras oi S. Giacomo (4597'}, crosses the brook descend-
ing from the VaL Milar, and soon afterwards, near the hamlet of
Dieni, that which issues from the Val G-'iu/" (both N. lateral valleys).
To the left, on a rock above the ravine of the infant Rhine, stands
part of the ancient tower of Pultmenya, once the ancestral seat of
the Pontaninger or Pultinger family.
Walkers will prefer the so-called 'Summer Houtk' to the high-road, for
the sake of the views. It diverges to the right by a linger-post (to 'Pass
364 Rotite 94. CHIAMUT.
Tiarms"), ascends a spur of the Crispalt (10,105'), above the hamlet of Cris-
pausa which lies to the left, and leads past the chalets of Miles and Scharinas
amidst the richest pastures in this district. It now skirts the brink of the
slope, overlooking the Rheinthal , turns to the right into the bleak V'al
Terms or Tiarms, crosses the Gammenlieiii (Rom. Vala) by the Alp Culm
de Val (6420'), and ascends to the Pass da Tiarms (7007'), between (r.) the
Piz Tiarms or Bergli- Slock (9564'J and (1.) the Calmol (75"J8'), where we get
a fine view of the Vorder-Rheinthal as far as the Vorarlberg and Rhsetikon
Mts. Descending to the Oberalpsee (p. 365), we keep to the left in order to
avoid a marsh, and regain the high-road 2'/2 hrs. from Sedrun.
The high-road follows the direction of the old 'Winter-Route' on
the left bank of the Vorder-Iihein and passes the Chapel of St. Brida,
below the hamlet oi Crispausa, and the poor villages oi Selva (5046')
and (2 M.) CMamut, or Tschamut (5380'; *Zur Rheinquelle, plain;
minerals), which consist of a few wooden huts and a chapel. In front
of us rises the Six-Madun or Badus, behind the second terrace
of which lies the Toma Lake (see below). Chiamut is probably the
highest village in Europe where rye is grown. The road crosses
(72 M.) the Gdmmerrhein near its influx into the Vorder-Rhein,
and (1 M.), opposite the Alp Milez, turns to the right (N.W.) into
the Val Surpalix , between the Piz Nurschallas on the left and the
Calmot on the right. The Vorder-Rhein (Aua da Toma, or DarvunJ
descends in a series of falls from the slope to the left.
Source of the Vorder-Rhein. The Vorder-Rhein rises in the Toma Lake
(7690'), on the K.E. slope of the Six-Madiin or Badus (p. 110). The path
to the lake (guide advisable) diverges from the road to the left, l'/4 M.
above Chiamut (see above) ; near the Alp Milez it crosses the brook emerg-
ing from the Val Surpalix, and ascends to the ('/z hr.) Alp Tgietlems.
Above this Alp (avoid path to the left, crossing the brook) we ascend
the pastures to the right, on the left bank of the Fil Toma , the brook
descending from Piz Nurschallas. After about 1 hr. we turn to the left
and soon reach the rocky barrier behind which the lake lies. The Toma
Lake (2'/2 hrs. from Chiamut), a green lake, very deep, and destitute of
fish, about 270 yds. long and 130 yds. broad, is bounded on the S. and
S.W. sides by precipitous rocks and stony slopes, and on the N. and K.W.
by pastures. The Badus (9615'; comp. p. 110) cannot be ascended direct
from the lake , the rocks being here too steep ; but by going round to the
N. side we may reach the top without much difficulty in 2 hrs. (guide 10 fr.).
The Piz Nurschallas (9003') , running out from the Badus to the N.
(from the Oberalp Pass 2, from Chiamut 3V2 hrs. ; guide unnecessary), is
easy and interesting. We follow the Toma Lake route, diverge to the right
where it turns to the left, ascend steep pastures , and lastly mount thu
broad S. arete to the summit. Superb survey of the Keuss and Vorder-
Rhein valleys and the mountains enclosing them. Easy descent to the
Oberalp Pass, I'A hr.
To the S. of Chiamut the Val Cornera, the mouth of which is a
pathless ravine, ascends to the frontier chain of Ticino, and from it the
Val MaigeU diverges to the W., I1/2 hr. from Chiamut. Toilsome routes
lead from the Val Cornera over the Passo Vecchio (890b') to the Val Cad-
limo and Piora (p. 105); from the Val Maigels, to the S., over the Passo
Bomengo (8650') to the Val Canaria and Airolo (p. 105); and to the W.,
over the MaigeU Pass (7940') and the Lo/ilen Pass (7835'), to the Unteralp-
thal and Andermatt (p. 110).
The road ascends the sequestered Val Surpalix in long windings
(which paths cut off; one ascending to the left by the first bend,
and bearing to the right, leads to the pass in 3/4 hr.). It affords
VAL MEDEL. 95. Route. 365
views of the Crispalt and Berglistoek, and of the Piz Cavradi, Piz
deir Ufiern, and Piz Ravetsch behind us. The (52 M.) Oberalp
Pass (6710^, 31/2 M. from Chiamut, forms the boundary between
the Orisons and Uri. Extensive turf-diggings. (The diligence as-
cends to the pass from Chiamut in 70 min. ; descent 40 min. ;
descent to Andermatt 1 hr. 10 min., ascent 1 hrs.)
The road rounds the E. end of the sombre Oberalpsee (6654';
1 M. long), abounding in trout (to the right the road to the Pass da
Tiarms, p. 364), and skirts its N. bank to (l/o hr.) the little *Inn
at the W. end, and then traverses the nearly level Oberalp (6443').
About 2 M. from the pass we obtain a view of the Ursernthal, with
the Furka towards the "W. (p. 115). The old path descending here
to the left direct to Q/n hr.) Andermatt is steep and stony, and
affords little view. The road remains on the hill a little longer, and
then descends by nine long windings to (6 M. from the lake) —
59 M. Andermatt (4738') ; thence to (4 M.) —
63 M. Goschenen, see pp. 108-110.
95. From Disentis to Biasca. The Lukmanier.
Comp. Maps, pp. 356, 102, 372.
38 M. Diligence in summer daily in S'/i hrs. (from Biasca to Disentis
in 10 hrs.); fare 13 fr. 10, coupe 16fr. 20c. Carriase and pair from Coire
to Olivone 140,_to Biasca 180 fr.
The Iiukmanier (6290') is the lowest Alpine pass from Switzerland to
Italy with the exception of the Maloja (5940'). The lower part of the
new road, as far as Curaglia, vies in girandeur with the Via Mala and
the Schyn-Strasse, but the scenery farther on is not striking. Inns un-
pretending.
Disentis, see p. 362. — The road crosses the Vorder-Rhein by a
handsome bridge (3488') and enters the Val Medel, the wild ravine
of the Mittel-Rhein, along the left bank of which it is carried by
means of cuttings and tunnels (eleven as far as Curaglia). At the
end of the ravine, of which we obtain several striking views, we
cross (23/4 M.) to the right bank of the Rhine and ascend in long
windings (cut off by paths) to (3/4 M.) —
31/2 M. Curaglia (4370' ; Hot. Lukmanier or Post'), a village
at the entrance to the Val Plattas, which ascends to the S.E. to the
Medel Glacier. (Over the Lavaz-Joch to Somvix, p. 362.) To the
S., at the head of the Val Medel, appears the Piz Cristallina
(10,265'), with its glacier. — *Piz Muraun (9510'; 4 hrs. , re-
paying), see p. 362.
Following the right side of the pleasant Val Medel , the road
passes the (11/4 M.) straggling village of Platta (4528' ; Post), a
picturesque waterfall on the Rhine (to the right of the road), and
the hamlets of Pardi , Fuorns, and Ada (on the left bank), and
(21/4 M.)-
7 M. Perdatsch (5093 ), at the mouth of the Val Cristallina.
The wild Val Cristallina, noted for its cheese, contains several fine
waterfalls, particularly in the HoUenschlund ( Val Ufi(rn). From the head
^66 Route or,. LUKMANTER.
of the valley two easy passes, the Passo Crixtallina (7887'), passinp; the Lago
Retico (Redig-I^ee; 7802'), and the Pass d'Ufiern (8727'). between the Cima
Camadra and the Cima Oarina , load to Olivone (p. 367). — The Piz
Gristallina (10,265'; 4V2 hrs. ; good guide necessary) is ascended from
Perdatsch by the Col CrislalUnn (not to he confounded with the Passo
Cristallina) without difficulfv. Grand survey of the aiedel and Rhoinvvald
Mts. Piz Ufiern (10,346'; SVJ hrs.) is more difficult. — The Piz Medel
(10,510'; 6 hrs.) is best ascended from the Veil Plattas on the N. side; a
night is spent on the Alp Suva (p. 362), 2 hrs. from Curaglia ; thence over
the steep and crevassed Plattas Glacier to the isolated rock, Rifigi de Ca-
motsch (9605') and over the Medel Glacier, to the top in 4 hrs. (trying). The
descent may be made either over the Camadra Glacier to the Pass d' UHern
(see above) or to G/iirone in the Val Camadra (p. 360).
Above Perdatscli the Rhine forces its way through the rocks to
a lower part of the valley. The road ascends by a long bend to
St. Gion (5298'), a group of hovels with a hospice , and traverses
a wild, rock-strewn valley, scantily overgrown with grass, willows,
and rhododendrons. The hospice of St. Gall (5514') is passed on
the opposite bank. By the Alp Scheggia we cross to the left bank
and reach (5 M. from Perdatsch) the hospice of —
12 m. S.Maria (6043'; Inn), anciently called Sancta Maria
'in loco magno\ whence perhaps the name of the pass.
To the E. of the hospice rises the Scopi or Skupil (10,500' ; ' Tschnpi\
summit, or crown), from the midst of glaciers; steep stony ascent from
the hospice OVj-I hrs.), very fatiguing, but free from danger; e.xtensive
view. The descent may be made to the E., to the Boarinn Alp (6140') in
the Val di Campo (3 hrs.) and via Campo to (3 hrs.) Olivone (p. 367). —
Less laborious is the ascent of *Piz Kondadura (9905'), to the W., an ad-
mirable point of view (3V2 hrs.).
From S. Maria to the ffotel Piora (3 hrs. ; guide 10, horse 25 fr.) and
Airolo, see p. 105. — Over the Rondadura Pass to Val Nalps, p. 363.
The road now crosses for the last time the Mittelrhein, which
rises in several little lakes in the Val Cadlimo, which opens on
the right, and ascends gradually to the (IV4 M.) Lukmanier Pass
(6290'). To the left rises the black, slaty summit of the Scop);
on the right are the Piz dell' TJomo, Piz Bias, Piz dell' Vfiern, and
Piz Rondadura. "We now descend, over beds of avalanches and
mud-streams which have been precipitated from the bare, yellowish
slopes of the Piz Corvo on the left, and which frequently endanger
the road in wet weather, to the former (2 M.) hospice of Casaccia
(5975'), prettily situated. To the E. towers the huge Rheinwaldhorn
(p. 376).
A path loads hence over the Predelp Pass (8053') to (5 hrs.) Faido
(p. 106). Another crosses the Passo Columbe (7792') between the Piz Scai
and the Piz Colnm.be to the (3'/-.' hrs.) Mtel Piora (p. 105).
The road is level as far as the (II/2 M.) Lukmanier Inn at the
beginning of the Piano di Segno (5415'), and then descends, high
above the Brenno, on the steep N. side of the Val S. Maria, being
hewn at places in the perpendicular rock. Below lie the chalets
of Campra, with several groups of chalets. We descend by a long
curve to the left to (41/4 M.) the hospice of Camperio (4028'),
cross the Brenno, and skirt the wooded S. side of the valley,
soon obtaining fine views of the Val Blegno. Far below, among
ACQUAROSSA. ,95. Route. 367
walnut-trees, lie the yi\\a.p^es of Somascona, Scono, und Olivone,
commanded by the conical Sosto (7280'}. Descending another long
bend (footpath shorter), we reach (,8 M.) —
24 M. Olivone, liom. Luorscha, locally Riv'di (2925'; *Hut'
Olivone^ moderate), the highest village in the Vnl Blegno, or Pol-
lenzer-Thal , picturesquely situated. To the E. tower the abrupt
spurs of the Rheinwald range. To Vrin by Ghirone, see p. 360.
No guides to be had at Olivone.
The road crosses the Brenno by a stone bridge, and descends on
its left bank to (2 M.) Aquila and to (2/4 M.) Dangio (2645'), beau-
tifully situated at the entrance to the Vdl Sojd. Vines and mulber-
ries now appear, and the slopes are clothed with walnuts and chest-
nuts. Next villages (1/2 M.) Torre and (IV2 M.) LotUgna. Then
(1 M.) Acquarossa (1740'; Alhergo delle Terme), with a chalybeate
spring, at the foot of the pyramidal Simano (8475'), which may
be ascended without difficulty in 6 hrs., with guide (fine view-,
rich flora).
The valley contracts. Then (IV2 M.) Dongio , a long village
(Inn, carriages), and (1 M.) Motto (1445'), where the road divides.
The road to the left (on the left bank of the Brenno) leads by Mal-
vaglia; that to the right (shorter, and shady in the afternoon) goes
by Ludiano and (2 M .^ Semione (1.320'), beside the ruined chateau
of Serravalle. The two roads re-unite at (2'/2 M.) the bridge of
Loderio (1190'), a village destroyed by a flood in 1868. The lower
part of the valley is monotonous ; its broad floor is covered with stony
deposits, and the slopes are furrowed by torrents. After crossing a
mound of debris, the road descends to (1 V4 M.) —
38 M. Biasca (p. 107), where the Val Blegno unites with the
Riviera (Val Ticino). The station of the St. Gotthard Railway is
3/4 M. to the S. of the village. Post-offlce at the station.
96. From Coire to Splugen. Via Mala.
Comp. Afap, p. .V.56'.
32V2 M. Diligence twice daily to Spliigen in 7 hrs., 10 min. (12 fr.,
coupe 14fr. 65c.); to Chiavenna in 13 hrs. (21 fr. 95, coupe 26 fr. 60c.),
corresponding with the early train from St. Gallen and Rorschach (see
p. 339). From Spliigen travellers go on at once by another diligence over
the Bernardino (p. 375). Those who wish to enjoy the scenery should
secure a seat affording a view, or take the diligence to Thusis only, and
walk thence to Andeer (8 M.) or to Splugen (I6V2 M.)- — Extra-Post with
two horses from Coire to Chiavenna 150 fr. 10 c, with three horses 208 fr.
50 c. — Carriage with one horse from Coire to Thusis 15, with two horses
30 fr. ; to Splugen with two 65, with three 100 fr. ; to Chiavenna 135 or 185 fr.
From Coire to (6 M.) Eeichenau (1936'; *Adler) , see p. 357.
The road through the Vorder-Bheinthal to Disentis and Andermatt
diverges here to the right (see R. 94). A covered wooden bridge
crosses the Vorder- Rhein above Reichenau, immediately before its
confluence with the Hinter-Rhein. In the vicinity are a large Saw-
mill and several workshops for cutting and polishing marble.
368 Route 96. THUSIS. From Coire
The fertile valley, called Somleschg, Domliaschffa, or Tomiliasca (the
W. side Heinzenherg , Romanic Moutagna), through which the road to
Thusis leads on the left bank of the Hinter-Rhein, is 7 M. long and 2 M.
wide. The Rhine, which formerly occupied nearly the whole valley, is now
confined within due limits by large embankments. The sides of the valley
are remarkable for their fertility, while on the right bank numerous castles
peep down from almost every hill and rock.
The road ascends slightly to (1 M.) Bonaduz (2146'; Post; Si-
mones ; *Degiacomi , higher up). To the left , on the Rhine , the
Chapel of St. Oeorge, adorned with ancient frescoes. (New road to
llanz, see p. 357.) Then (8/4 M.) Rhaziins (2126'), on a rock rising
from the Rhine, said by tradition to have been founded by the
Etruscan Rhstus (p. 369), with a handsome chateau of the Vieli
family. Fine view of the mountains to the S., at the head of the
valley (see below) ; behind us rises the Calanda.
On the Right Bank is the ruin oi Nieder-Juvalta; farther on are the
chalybeate baths of Rothenbrunnen; above them the ruins o( Ober-Jvvalta;
then the chateaux of Orlenstein and Paspels. We next observe the ruined
church of St. Lorenz and the chateaux of Canova., Rietberg, FUvstenau,
Baldensfein (on the Albula), and Ekrenfeli , the last of which is below
Hohen-Rhdtien (p. 369).
We next reach (31/4 M.) Realta (2058'; Inn), with the ruin of
Nieder-Realta (not visible from the road), and pass (I74 M.), on
the left, the large cantonal Prison and Lunatic Asylum. Beyond
(l'/4 M.) Katzis (2185'; Kreuz) we pass a nunnery and school on
the right, and the venerable little church of St. Martin on the left.
Beautiful scenery. To the S. rises the snowy Piz Curuer (9760') ;
beyond this, to the left, is the Schyn Pass, with the majestic Piz
Michel (10,375') in the background; to the N. the Ringelspitz
(10,660') and the Trinserhorn (9935'). About % M. to the E. the
Albula falls into the Rhine ; beyond it lies the pretty village of
Scharans. Near (21/2 M-) Thusis, on the slope, near the pleasant
village of Masein, stands the chateau of Nieder-Tagstein.
16 M. Thusis. — Hotels. Hot. -Pens. Via Mala, at the beginning
of the Via Mala, with garden, R., L., & A. 4-5V2, B. IV'.', D. 4-5 fr., pens.
8-10, in spring and autumn 7-8 fr. ; *Kuehads or Po.ST, with baths , R.,
L., & A. 3 fr. 30c., D. 3V2, B. P/i fr.; Rhaetia, R. & L. 3, D. 3, B. IV4 fr.;
"Weisses Keeuz, moderate; Gemsli, plain. — Beer at the '■Felsenkeller'
on the Rosenbilhel., to the right of the entrance to the Via Mala, fine view.
— One-horse carr. to the third bridge of the Via Mala and back, 2 pers. 6,
3 pers. 8 fr., (wo-horse carr. 12 fr. ; to Andeer IIV'.', 14, or 22V2 fr. ; to
Splugen 22'/2, or 39 fr. ; to Schyn (Solis Bridge) 7, 9, or 14 fr. ; to Tiefen-
kasten IS'/-, I61/2, or 241/2 fr.;'to Reichenau 11, 14, or 22 fr. ; to Coire 17
or 33 fr. Fees included in each case.
T/iMsis (2448 ' ; 1067 inhab.), Rom. Tuseun, beautifully situ-
ated at the foot of the Ileinzenberg , and handsomely rebuilt since
a fire in 1845 , is well adapted for some stay and as a starting-
point for excursions.
"Walks and Excuusions. To the (5 min.) Rosenbilhel (see above); to
the Belvedere ((V4 hr.); to the Boval wood ('/4 hr.); to the first weir in
the A'olla Valley (20 min.); to the (1 hr.) Crapteig, to the right above the
Via Mala; to (3/4 hr.) Hohen-Rhdtien (p. 369; the two last-named points
command superl) views). Through the Schlosswald to the Taubenstein
to Splugen. SCHYN-ROAD. 96. Route. 369
and (40 min.) the chateau of Tagstein (p. 368), with pleasure-grounds. Past
(3/4 hr.) Rongellen to the (l'/2 hr.) Maiensass Aclasut (4096') , situated high
ahove the second bridge in the Via Mala. — On the Heinzenberg rises the
Prdzerhohe (6965'), a fine point of view, ascended in 4'/2 hrs. by Masein,
Portein, and Sam (3863'; Inn). — The Stdtzerhorn (8450'j. 5-6 hrs., toilsome
from this side (comp. p. 380).
Fbom Thdsis to Tiefenkasten (9 M.). The 'Schyn-Road, constructed
in 1868-69. leads on the S. side of the Albula (diligence daily in 2 hrs., comp.
p. 378; carr.see p. 368). It forms a central link in the network of roads extend-
ing over the Grisons, and the first half of it commands a series of grand and
picturesque views. Immediately above Thusis it crosses the Nolla and the
Rhine at the foot of the Hohen-Rhsetien, passes the ruin of Ehrenfels on
the right, and beyond (3/4 M.) Sils (2283'), a village almost entirely burnt
down in 1837, the small chateau of Baldenstein on the left. We next ascend
to Campi {Canipo Bello., ruin of the ancestral seat of the Campell family ; TJl-
rich Campell was a Rhsetian reformer and historian), picturesquely situated
to the left, on the ravine of the Albula, and the farm of (2 M.) Rmiplanas.
Pretty view hence of the church of Solis. Then through the ancient forest
of Versasca. By a ravine we observe above us, to the right, a bridge of the
old Mutten road, and we pass the Freihof, an auberge on the left. The road
is next carried through the 'Pass-Maf, which begins here, by means of gal-
leries of masonry and extensive cuttings and tunnels. (l'/2 M.) Small inn.
[About V4M. farther, by the chalets of Calabrien, a narrow road to the right
ascends to (41/2 M) Unter-MuUen (4833'; 'Inn, plain; closed in summer, when
all the inhabitants migrate to Ober-Mutten). Thence to (IV4 hr.) Ober-Mutten
(6148'; Hosang's Inn), from which the Muttiterhovii (8070'), a splendid point
of view, may be ascended in l'/2 hr. : good path at first, then up grassy slopes.
Descent from Ober-Mutten to (2'/2 hrs.) Zillis or to Thusis interesting, but
rather rough.] The bridge across the Multner Tobel affords a fine view
of the gorge. (I'A M) Unter-SoHs, a hamlet with a spring containing iodine.
High above, to the left, lies Obervatz (p. 381). Looking back near the last
tunnel, we obtain a fine survey of the Heinzenberg, and before us a view
of Alvaschein and the peaks of the Albula group. The road now crosses
the profound ravine of the Albula by the 'Soils Bridge, 260' above the
foaming stream , and ascends in a curve (cut off by a path to the right
beyond the bridge) to the village of (2 M.) Alvaschein (Aiigustin). Oppo-
site, below the loftily situated Stilrvis, is a waterfall. Farther on, to the
right, below the road, is the church of Mustail, the oldest in the Albula
valley, formerly a burial-place. At Unter- Mustail there is an alkaline spring.
The road unites with the Julier route near (I1/2 M.) Tiefenkasten (p. 381).
Immediately above Thusis the turbid Nolla, a torrent which has
frequently devastated this district, falls into the Rhine.
The Lake of Liisch (6398'), on the Heinzenberg (p. 368), above the
village of Tschappina (p. 358), has no visible outlet. Its water softens the
porous slate of its banks to the consistency of mud, and large masses of
the strata adjoining it periodically slide down to the Nolla. Tschappina
itself is built in part on a shifting foundation, some of its buildings hav-
ing been ascertained to change their positions. — By Tschappina and over
the Glas Pass to the Safier-Thal (4 hrs. to Platz), see p. 358.
The view from the Nolla bridge is striking. In the background of
the valley towers the barren Piz Beverin (9843'). The Rhine Valley
appears to be entirely enclosed by lofty mountains. The right bank
of the gorge from which the Rhine issues is guarded by the ruined
castle ot Hohen-Rhaetien, or Hoch-Realta (Hock-Ryalt), 807' above
the river, the most ancient in Switzerland, having been founded,
according to tradition, in B.C. 589, by the legendary hero Rhaetus,
leader of the Etruscans when retreating before the Gauls. Good
paths ascend to it in 3/^ hr. from Thusis and Sils (see above). The
Ba£Dekek, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 24
370 Route 96. VIA MALA. From Coire
ruin is on the S. side of the hill, which overlooks the whole of the
Domleschg,- on the N. side is the dilapidated Church of St. John,
the oldest Christian church in the valley.
From 1470 to 1822 the route ascended the bank of the Nolla
through wood, and entered the gorge above Rongellen (see below).
The path through the gorge, the ' Verlorne Loch', the famous *Via
Mala, was then only 4' wide, and followed the left bank the whole
way. In 1822 the new road was constructed, and the old path through
the gorge considerably widened. The limestone-rocks rise almost
perpendicularly on both sides to a height of 1600'. At the Kdnzeli,
near the entrance, the retrospective view is very fine. A little farther
on, V/i M. from Thusis, the road passes through a tunnel (2685'),
55 yds. long, penetrating the projecting rock. The *View, before
the tunnel, down the sombre defile, of the solitary tower of Hohen-
Rhsetien, and the sunny slopes of the Heinzenberg beyond, is very
striking. From a point beyond the tunnel, where the side-wall
ceases and the wooden railings recommence, the boisterous river is
visible at the bottom of the profound gorge.
Near the (3/4 M.) post- station of the hamlet of Rongellen
(Post; Pens. Via Mala), the gorge expands into a small basin, and
soon contracts again. The road crosses the river three times at short
intervals : ^/^ M. , first bridge , built in 1738 (refreshments at a
pavilion above); 1/4 M. * Second Bridge (2844^, built in 1739,
the grandest point. The Rhine, 160' below the road, winds through
so narrow a ravine that the precipices above almost meet. In Aug.,
1834, and Sept., 1868, the river rose to within a few feet of the
arch of the bridge. At the (1 M.) third bridge (2903'; built in
1834) the Via Mala ends.
We now enter the Schamser Thai, the green meadows and
cheerful dwellings of which contrast pleasantly with the gloomy Via
Mala. In the background to the S. rises the pointed Hirli (9873').
The first village in the valley of Schams is (1 M.) —
2 M. Zillis, Rom. Ciraun (3060'; Post or Kreuz, very plain),
with the oldest church in the valley (nave and tower Romanesque ;
interesting ceiling-paintings of the 12th cent.).
Ascents. 'Piz Beverin (9843'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 7, horse to the Obrist-
alp 12 fr.), a superb point of view, but trying. Bridle-path by Donath
and Malhon to the (3V2-4 hrs.) Obrist Alp (7172'); thence to the top 2V2 hrs.
more. Or from Thusis direct, by Glas or by Saiasa and Vioms, in 7-8 hrs.
(guide 10 fr.). — Piz Curver (97G0'; 6 hrs.; 6 fr.), from Zillis or Pignieu,
also interesting and for experts not difficult. The descent may be made
to the chapel of Ziteil and Savognin (p. 381).
On the hill to the right, on the left bank of the Rhine, above
the village of Donath, and overshadowed by the Piz Beverin, stands
the ruined castle of Fardiln, or La Turr (3820'), once the seat of
the governors of the valley. About the middle of the 15th cent,
the brutality of one of these officials, like that of Gessler 150 years
earlier, is said to have given rise to the emancipation of this
to Spliigen. ANDEEK. 96. Route. 371
district from their sway. Entering the cottage of a peasant whom
he disliked, the tyrant spat into the boiling broth prepared for
dinner. The peasant, Joliann Gaidar, seized him by the throat,
plunged his head into the scalding liquid, exclaiming, ^Malgia sez
il pult cha ti has condiW ('Eat the soup thou hast seasoned'), and
strangled him. This was the signal for a general rising.
Near the Baths of Pignieu (the waters of which , containing
iron and alkali, are conducted to Andeer, and there used for baths),
which have been successively destroyed by inundation and by lire,
the Pignieu descending from the Piz Curver (p. 370) is crossed by
a bridge, the last completed on this route, and bearing the inscrip-
tion on the E. parapet: ^Jam via patet hostibus et amicis. Cavete,
Rhaeti! simplicitas morum et unio servabunt avitam libertatern' . On
the left bank of the Rhine are the village of Clugin and the square
tower of the ruin of Cagliatscha. Then (21/2 M.) —
23V2M. Andeer (3212'; pop. 580; * Krone, or Hotel Fravi, vfith
baths), the principal village in the valley. Fine view from the
loftily situated church (erected in 1673).
Ascents. Piz Vizan (8110'; 4'/2 hrs. ; with guide), by the Burgias
Alp; splendid view. — Piz la Tschera (8615'; 5 hrs.), by Alp Albin, also
interesting. — Piz Beverin and Piz Cwvir, see p. 370.
From Andeer toStalla (llhrs.; guide unnecessary), an attractive walk.
The path quits the Spliigen road 2 M. above Andeer and enters the wild
^Ferrera Valley to the left, leading first on the left, and then on the right
bank of the Averser-R/ieiri, which forms several fine waterfalls. On the left
Piz Grisch (10,000'), on the right the Surettahorn (9926'). We pass (40min.)
a deserted .silver-foundry and reach (V2 hr.) Ausser-Ferrera (4334'; Inn),
where the valley expands slightly. (Over the Fianell Pass to Savognin,
see p. 381.) We then follow the right bank to (I'/a hr.) Inner-Ferrera,
or Canicitl (4856'; rustic inn), at the mouth of the Val d''£met (p. 372).
Descending hence, we cross the Rhine and ascend its steep left bank
(20min.). The path skirts the slope, passing through wood; after 25 min.
it rounds a projecting rock (view of the Surettahorn, etc., behind us), and
then again descends to the river, which is augmented here by the torrents
from the Val Starlera on the left and the Valle di Lei on the right. The
narrow path crosses (25 min.) the latter. (By the bridge is the frontier-
.stone of Italy, to which the Valle di Lei belongs.) The path ascends
rapidly, and then immediately descends. Kear (1 hr.) Campsut (5500') it
crosses the Rhine, and beyond (1/4 hr.) Crot, another poor village, recrosses
it. Beyond the bridge (view, to the right, of the Madris Valley, with the
Piz Gallegione and the Cinia di Lago at its head) the path ascends steep
pastures to the left, and at the top of the hill traverses a beautiful wood
of stone-pines. It then descends, crosses another bridge, and ascends to
(1 hr.) Cresta (6397'; bed at the cure's; inn very poor), the principal vil-
lage in the Averser Thai, which expands here and is carpeted with beau-
tiful pastures. This is one of the highest inhabited valleys among the
Alps, and lies in a sunny situation. 'To the N. rises the Weissberg (9990').
The path then ascends slightly, passing the handsome house of the
Podestat, or chief magistrate, and the mouth of the Val Bregalga, which is
enclosed by fine glaciers, to (iVa hr.) Juf (6685'); then to the left across
pastures and through a desolate rock-strewn valley to the (IV2 hr.) pass
of the Stallerberg (8478'; beautiful view of the Julier Mts., etc.). The path,
quite distinct, now descends, keeping to the left, to (2 hrs.) Stalla (p. 382).
— From Juf through the Val Faller to Molins, see p. 382.
A path leads from Juf to the S.E. over the Forcellina (8770') direct
to the Septimer (p. 382 ; guide advisable, from Cresta 8-10 fr.) : from Juf to
24*
372 Route 96. SPLUGEN.
the pass, with limited view, 2 hrs.; Septimcr 1 hr. |Fr(im the Scptimer we
may again ascend and cross the Fuorcla di Lunghino (8645') direct to the
Maloja (p. 384). From the Forcellina Pass we may ascend a peak known
in the Averser Thai as the Forcellina (9918'; admirable view) in IV2 hr., and
descend to the S. into the Val Turba. We then reach the Septinier route
20 min. helow the pass, by the second bridge over the Septimerbach
(p. 382).] — From Cresta through the Val Bregalga and across the Passo
dellaDuana(9187'; with guide) io Soglio in the ValBregaglia (p. 412), 7-8 hrs.,
interesting. The pass, between Pizzo Marcio (9534') and Pizzo della JMiana
(p. 411), afibrda a fine view of the Bre^aglia Mts.
From Canicdl to Pianazzo on the Spliigen route (41/2 hrs.; with guide).
The path ascends steeply on the right side of the Val d^Emet, through
wood, to the (IV4 hr.) Alp Emet (6194'), whence the cairn on the pass is
visible; then over the soft and uneven soil of the Alp to the top in 1 hr.
more. Retrospective view of the Piz Bcverin; and the Calanda afterwards
comes in sight. From the Passo di Madesimo (7480'; frontier of Switzerland
and Italy) the Piz Tambo (10,748') is seen to the W., and the Cima di Lago
(9892') and Piz Gallegione (10,285') to the S.E. We descend past the N.
side of the pretty Lago d''Emet^ on the left bank of the Madesimo, then
across meadows, to the huts of Al Tecchio and (i'/a hr.) Madesimo (p. 373).
We now cross the stream (new road, p. 373) and soon reach the Spliigen
route 1/2 M^- helow Pianazzo (p. 373).
The Spliigen road winds upwards, passes the scanty ruins of the
Bdrenburg, and enters the wooded *Ilofna Ravine, in which the
Ehine forms a series of waterfalls. Near the entrance (21/4 M. from
Andeer) the road crosses the Averser-Rhein (*Melchior's Inn), which
here issues from the Val Ferrera and forms a line waterfall a little
way up the valley. (To the Ferrera Valley and Stalla, see p. 371.)
Towards the end of the gorge (21/2 M.), we pass an old bridge
over the Rhine on the right. The valley expands. The road crosses
(3/4 M.) a torrent which drains the Suretta-Thal on the left. In the
vicinity are the ruins of the Sufner Foundry ; on the right rises the
Kalkberg (see below). "We next(i/2M.) pass through a rocky gateway
(^Sassa Plana ; 4390'), pass (l/4hr.) the bridge to the village of Sufers
(4673'; Inn) on the left bank of the Rhine, enter a wooded ravine
(Inn), and cross (IV4 M.) the wild stream in its profound gorge by
a bold bridge (4727'). After a short ascent we obtain a survey of the
broad Val Rhein (Rheinwaldthal) ; on the right the barren Kalkberg
(9763'); opposite, the Einshorn (9650'); to the left of Spliigen,
adjoining the Guggerniill (9472'), is the Piz Tambo (10,748'). Then
(1 M.) —
321/2 M. Splugen (4757'; pop. 484; *Hdt. Bodenhaus, R., L.,
& A. 41/0, D. 41/2, pens. 7-8 fr. ; *Hdt. Splugen, R. 2fr.), the capital
of the Rheinwaldthal, enlivened by the traffic on the Spliigen and
Bernardino routes. A pleasant walk leads to the ruined castle on
the old road (pretty view down the valley and of the Piz Tambo).
Excursions. (Guides Peter Schwarz and/oA. Sprecher.) The Guggerniill
(9472'; 41/2 hrs.; guide G fr.), by the Tambo Alp, and the Einshorn (9650';
4-5 hrs. ; 8 fr.), from Nufenen, two fine points, without difficulty. — The
Piz Tambo {Tambohorn or Schtieehorn, 10,748'; 14 fr.), ascended from the
Splugen Pass in 4 hrs., is fatiguing, but for experts free from danger. Most
extensive view, N. to Swabia, and S. to Milan, whence the Piz is visible.
Excursion to the Source of tlie Hitilerrhein , p. 375. — Over the Lochli-
berg to the Safer-Thai, see p. 358.
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373
97. From Spliigen to the Lake of Como.
41'/2M. Diligence twice daily to Chiavenna (lOtr., coupe 12fr.) in5hrs. ;
from Chiavenna to Colico, 17 M., Railway in 1 hr. (3 fr. 10, 2fr. 15, 1 fr.
40 c.), corresponding with' the steamboats to Como.
The road divides at the village of Splugen (p. 372). The
Bernardino route leads straight on (p. 375) , while the SplDgen
RoAU , which was constructed by the Austrian government in
1819-21, crosses the Rhine to the left by an iron bridge, ascends
in windings (avoided by short-cuts), and farther up passes through
a tunnel 93 yds. long. Behind us, above Spliigen, rises the bare
Kalkberg (p. 372). The road crosses the Hausernbach twice in a
bleak valley, and then ascends on the W. slope in numberless zig-
zags, past the lonely Berghaus (6677'), and through a long gallery
of masonry, to the [63/4 M.) Spliigen Pass (^Colmo delV Orso,
6945'), between the Piz Tambo (10,748'; p. 372) on the right, and
the Surettahorn (8925') on the left, the boundary between Switzer-
land and Italy.
Beyond the pass and the first Cantoniera, we reach (21/2 M.) the
Dogana (6247'), or Italian custom-house, a group of houses with
a poor inn at the head of a bleak valley enclosed with high moun-
tains. In winter the snow here sometimes reaches to the windows of
the upper story. During snow-storms, bells are rung in the four
highest houses of refuge as a guide to travellers. A guide-post at
the third refuge indicates the route, to the left, to (1 hr.) Made-
slmo (see below).
The old bridle-path turned to the right by the second wooden
bridge, and led through the Cardinell gorge direct to Isola, a route
much exposed to avalanches. In traversing this ravine in Dec. 1800
the French under Gen. Macdonald sustained severe losses, whole
columns being precipitated into the abyss. The new road descends
the E. slope in numerous zigzags, being protected at places against
avalanches by long galleries of solid masonry (first249yds. long, se-
cond 228, third 550 yds.), with sloping roofs to enable the snow to
slide off, and openings at the sides for light.
On quitting the second gallery , we obtain a fine view of
the old road, which was destroyed by an inundation in 1834, and
the village of Isola. At the end of the third gallery is a co-
pious spring. The new road avoids the dangerous Liro Oorge be-
tween Isola and Campo Dolcino. Beyond Pianazzo (Inn, dear), and
near the entrance to a short tunnel, the copious Madesiino falls into
the valley from a rock 650' high. This beautiful *Waterfall is best
viewed from a small platform by the road, where the conductor stops
the diligence.
From Pianazzo a road ascends to (IV4 M.) Madesimo (4920'), a pret-
tily situated village with a chalybeate spring and a hydropathic "Ktirhaiis
(pens. 8'/2 fr.), recommended as a health-resort. — To Caiiiciil over the
Passo di MadeHmo, see p. 372.
The part of the road which we now enter upon is the boldest in
374 Route 97. CHIAVENNA.
point of construction, with numerous tunnels, and terraces rising
perpendicularly one above the other. At one of the turns is an in-
scription in honour of the emperor Ferdinand I., in whose reign the
road was made (1834). Immediately beyond a beautiful view is
obtained from below of the fall of the Madesimo.
17 M. Campodolcino (3457'; Croce (TOro; Posta or Corona,
mediocre) consists of four groups of houses ; the second contains
the church and the 'campo santo' or burial-ground. A Latin in-
scription on the rock, a little farther on, is in honour of the Emp.
Francis, who made this road from ^Clavenna ad Iihenum\
The Liro Valley, or Valle S. Oiacomo, is strewn with fragments
of rock, chiefly of brittle white gneiss, which reddens on exposure
to the air. The wildness of the scene is somewhat softened by the
rich foliage of the chestnuts visible lower down, from among which
rises the slender white campanile of the church of Oallivayyio.
Near S. Oiacomo are whole forests of chestnuts, which extend far
up the steep slopes. We soon reach the vineyards of Chiavenna,
where the luxuriance of Italian vegetation is fully displayed.
25 M. Chiavenna. — Hotels. *H6tel Coneadi, in the middle of the
town, with railway-ticket and luggage oflice, R., L., &. A. 3-5, B. l'/4, lunch
21/2, 1). 41/2 fr.; "Albekgo Si'ecola, at the station, E., L. & A. 21/2, B. Ifr.
Restaurant Ckiave d'Oro, with beds, on the Promenade.
The Station ("Cafe-Restaurant, lunch 2'/2 fr., beer) lies outside of and
below the town. Through-tickets are here issued to the steamboat-stations
on the Lago di Como, with coupon for the omnibus-journey between the
railway-station and the quay at Colico.
Chiavenna (1090'), Ger. Cldven or Clefen, the Clavenna of the
Romans, an ancient town with 4086 inhab., is charmingly situated
on the Mera, at the mouth of the Val Bregaglia (p. 412). Opposite
the Hotel Conradi are the ruins of an unfinished chateau of De Salis,
the last governor appointed by the Grisons. Picturesque view from
the '■Paradisd' or garden of the ruin (fee 1/2 f^".). S. Lorenzo, the
principal church, has an elegant detached campanile or clock-tower,
rising from an arcaded enclosure which was formerly the burial-
ground. The octagonal baptistery contains a very ancient font with
reliefs.
The Railway to Colico (fares, see p. 373) traverses three tun-
nels soon after starting, beyond which we enjoy a fine retrospect of
Chiavenna. The line runs through a rich vine-bearing country, the
lower parts of which, however, are exposed to the inundations of
the Liro and Mera. The valley (Piano di Chiavenna) is enclosed on
both sides by lofty mountains. On the right bank of the Mera lies
Gordona, at the mouth of the Val della Forcola (p. 377), beyond
which the Boggia forms a pretty waterfall in its precipitous descent
from the narrow Val Bodengo. — 6 M. Samolaco is the station for
the large village of that name on the opposite (right) bank of the
Mera, at the mouth of the Val Mengasia. Before (8V2 M.) Novate,
the railway reaches the Lago di Mezwla. This lake was originally
the N. bay of the Lake of Como, from which it has been almost
HINTERRHEIN. 98. Route. 375
separated by the deposits of the Adda ; but the shallow channel
which connects the lakes has again been rendered navigable. To
the S. appears the pyramidal Mte. Legnone (p. 443). The railway
crosses the diluvial land formed by the mountain-stream issuing
from the Val Coderalon the left, and, supported by masonry and tra-
versing tunnels, skirts the E. bank of the lake via Campo and Ver-
zeia. It crosses the Adda beyond (221/2 M.) Dubino. The Valtellina
railway (p. 409) joins ours from the left; on a hill to the right the
ruined castle of Fuentes, once the key of the Valtellina, erected by
the Spaniards in 1603, and destroyed by the French in 1796.
17 M. Colico (722'; Isola Bella; Angela; Hotel Risi; Ristor.
delta Posta, on the lake), see p. 443. — The station is nearly 1/2 M.
from the quay. The omnibus-coupons are collected at the exit from
the station. There is abundant time to permit of passengers walking
to the quay, instead of taking the omnibus.
98. From Spliigeu to Bellinzona. Bernardino.
Comp Map, p. 372.
45V2 31. Diligence daily (between S. Bernardino and Bellinzona twice
daily) in8'/4, returning in 11 hrs. (15 fr. 15, coupe 18 fr. 85 c). Extra-Post
with two horses from Coire to Bellinzona 191 fr. 70 c, with three 266'/2 fr.
Spliigen (4757'), see p. 372. We traverse the upper Val Rhein,
passing below (1 M.) Medels (5030'). On the left bank, 3/^M.
farther on, lies the pasture of Ebi, now partly covered with debris,
where the 'Landsgemeinde' used to assemble biennially on the first
Sunday in May. Then (2 M.) Nufenen (5144'), at the mouth of
the Areue-Thal, at the head of which appears the Curciusa Glacier.
On the left are the huge rocky Guggemull (p. 372), concealing the
Piz Tambo (p. 372), and the Einshorn (9650'). Near (21/4 M.) —
6 M. Hinterrhein (5302'; Post, plain), the highest village in
the valley, the Rheinwald Mts., the Marscholhorn, Rheinquellhorn,
Rheinwaldhorn, Hochberghorn, and Kirchalphorn come in sight.
Source of the Hinter-Rhein. From Hinterrhein to the Zapport Chalet
2'A hrs., thence to the club-hut ^|^ hr., rough, and hardly repaying (guide
advisable , 6 fr. ; G. Trepp , Joh. Lorez). The path , damaged annually
by inundations and landslips , diverges to the right from the Bernar-
dino road, beyond the Rhine bridge (see below), and at first traverses the
level floor of the valley. After V2 hr. the valley narrows. The path loses
itself in a stony chaos on the right slope of the valley, while the steep
K. side is partly covered with poor pastures. The wild infant Rhine
is in many places covered with avalanche-snow which lies here the
whole year. By one of these snow-bridges we cross to the left bank,
where a narrow path, kept in order by the shepherds in summer, leads
to the (I3/4 hr.) Zapport Chalet (6420'), occupied in July and August by the
Bergamasque shepherds, who pasture their flocks on the sunny Zapporl-
alp. The route to the club-hut (3/4 hr.) next passes the Solle, a wild
cliff on the right bank, at the foot of which the Rhine forms a .small
fall ; and on the same bank higher up is a poor rock-strewn Alpine pasture,
called by way of antithesis the Paradies. The Zapport Club Hut (7613'),
with room for 10-12 persons, is also occupied in summer by the shepherds.
The narrow valley is terminated by the Rheinwald Glacier, the lower
part of which is called the I'aradie.': Glacier. The Hinter-Rhein issues
376 Route 98. S. BERNARDINO. From SpUigen
from an aperture in the glacier (7270'), in shape resembling a cow's mouth,
immediately below the chalet. This chief source of the river (Sprung or
Urspvung) is soon augmented by numerous small tributaries from crevasses
of the glacier. From the club-hut we may ascend the Rheinwald Glacier
in order to survey the vast Adula , or lllieimoald Mis. : the Zapporthorn
(iO,330'), RheinqiieU/ioni(lO,bO{)'),VogelbergiiO,bi)b'),Jilieiimald/ior>i, auferhorn
(11,130'), etc. — The Rheinwaldhorn ( Piz Valrhein., or Adulahorn 11,150';
may be ascended from the clul)-hut in 7 hrs. (very trying, but free from
danger with a good guide). The Vogelberg and the Rheinquellhorn, each
5 hrs. from the club-hut, are easier. The Zapporthorn, from the Bernar-
dino Pass (see below) 4 hrs., difficult.
From Hinterrhein over the Valser Berg to the Lugnetz Valley and
Ilanz, see p. 3(50; over the Zapportgrat or the Lenia-Liicke to Zervreila,
p. 360. Trying passes ( Vogeljoch, 9640' ; Pasio del Cadabbi, 9680' ; Zapport
Pass, 10,140') lead to the S. from the Eheinwald and Zapport glaciers to
Malvaglia (p. 367).
The Bbrnakdino Road crosses the Rhine by a bridge (5301')
of three arches , '/2 M. beyond Hinterrhein, and ascends the steep
bush-clad slope in windings. (A good short-cut diverges to the
right from the second winding.) Looking back, we have a line
view of the Rhine Valley and the Kirchalphorn , Lorenzhorn,
Schwarzhorn, and Hochberghorn, which bound it on the north. On
the left, before (S'/.j M.) we cross the Masek-Baeh (5680'), is the
solitary Durrenbilhl Chalet. Traversing a bleak valley, and passing
the Thali-ALp on the left, we reach the (3 M.) S. Bernardino Pass
(6768'; Jnn, poor), at the N. end of the little Lago Moesola, from
which three rocks project. This pass was known to the Romans, and
down to the 15th cent, it was called the Vogelberg. When St. Bernar-
dino of Siena preached the gospel here at that period, a chapel was
erected on the S. slope of the mountain, and the pass has since
been named after him. On the left rise the Plzzo JJccello (8910') and
Mittaghorn (8560') ; on the right the Marscholhorn (or Pis Moesola ;
9520'). Magnificent view from a large white boulder, ^/^ hr. above
the hotel to the N.W. (guide unnecessary).
We descend in numerous windings on the left bank of the
Moesa, which issues from the lake, and pass a Cantoniera. On the
W. rises the Zapporthorn (10,330') with the Stabbio-Grat (8996'),
from which the Muccia Glacier descends. To the E. are the Piz
Lumhreda (9768'), PizMutun. (9360'), and Piz Curciusa (9423').
Lower down, we cross the Moesa by a handsome bridge, and
descend in a wide bend to (5 M.) —
17 M. S. Bernardino (5335'; *Hdt. Ravizza, *Hut. Brocco, pen-
sion at both 7i/.2-9'/2 fr-, R- extra; Albergo Menghetti), the highest
village in the Val Mesocco or Mesolcina, with a mineral spring which
attracts many invalids in summer. The valley, especially the lower
part, contrasts strongly with the Val Rhein in language, culture,
and climate. Everything here is Italian , and the inhabitants are
Roman Catholics, Cardinal Borromeo (p. 486) having successfully
crushed the germs of the Reformation. — Over the Passetti Pass to
the Val Calanca, see p. 377.
To the N., above the Bernardino Pass, towers the sharp tooth
to Bellinzona. ROVEREDO. 9S. lloute. 377
of the Piz Vccello (p. 376). The road ascends a little, and then
descends in numerous zigzags (^whlch footpaths cut off). A line fall
of the Moesa, in the gorge to the right, is only well seen if we
follow the path leading from S. Bernardino to S. Giacomo, first on
the left, and then on the right bank of the stream. At (41/2 M.) S.
G-'mcomo (3760'; Alb. Toscano) the road crosses the Moesa (pleasing
view), and then descends rapidly to (4 M.) —
251/2 M. Mesocco, or Cremeo (2560' ; Posta, well spoken of; Hot.
Toscani, dirty), where walnut-trees, chestnuts, vines , and fields of
maize proclaim the Italian climate. On a rocky height to the left of
the road, V2 ^- helow the village, rises the grand ruined castle of
Mesocco (or Misox), with its four towers, which was destroyed by
natives of the Grisons in 1526. From the slopes descend numerous
brooks, and between Mesocco and Lostallo there are eight water-
falls, some of them considerable. Beyond (I'/^M.) Soazza (2067')
we reach the bottom of the valley. Near the second bridge below
Soazza the Buffalora forms a fine cascade on the right. Then
(21/2 M.) Cabhiolo (1475'), (1 M.) Lostallo (1560'), with exten-
sive vineyards and the first fig-trees, and (4'/2 M.) —
351/2 M- Cama (1260'), with a Capuchin monastery.
From Cama to Chiavenna a fatiguing, but interesting route (14-15 hrs.,
guide necessary to the summit of the pass only. 5 fr.) ascends the steep
Val Cama, containing the little lake of that name (405S'), crosses the (oi/ahr.s.)
Bocchetta dj Val Cama (6780'), and descends through the Val Bodengo to
(31/2 hrs.) Bodengo (rustic inn) and by a steep path, with steps, through
the gorge of the Boggia to Gordona and (5 hrs.) Chiavenna. — A some-
what easier, but less interesting path from Soa/.za (see above) crosses the
Passo della Forcola (7270') and leads through the valley of the same name
to Chiavenna (12-13 hrs. ; with guide).
Then (8/4 M.) Leggia (1125') and (11/4 M.) Grono (1000'; *H6tel
Calancasca) , a thriving village at the mouth of the Val Calanca,
with the Florentina tower, and near it a chapel with old frescoes.
The picturesque Val Calanca is traversed by a road, first on the left,
then on the right bank of the Calancasca, leading by Molina, Arvigo, S.
Domenica, and Augio to (10 M.) Rossa (3570'; Inn), the chief village in
the valley. (Toilsome route hence to the W., over the Giumella Pass, 6955',
to Malvaglia in the Val Blegno, p. 367.) Bridle-path hence to (1 hr.) Val-
hella (4383'), the highest hamlet in the valley, from which an easy route
to the E. crosses the Passo di Trescidmine (7064') to (5 hrs.) Mesocco ;
then (1 hr.) Alp Alogna (4695'), whence we may cross the Passo di Passetli
(6808') to the E. to S. Bernardino (p. 376) 4-5 hrs. (guide). At the head
of the Val Calanca, but diflicult of access thence, lies the grand moun-
tain-basin of the Slabbio Alps (6590'), which may be reached in 4-5 hrs.
from S. Bernardino by crossing the Passo Tre Uomini (8704').
39 M. Boveredo (974'; pop. 10t8 ; * Angela; Croce), the capital
of the lower Val Mesocco, with the ruined castle of the once power-
ful Trivulzio family.
S. Vittore (882') is the last village of the Grisons, Lumino the
first in Canton Ticino. The Bernardino route passes Caslione, on
the right, a station on the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 107), joins the
St. Gotthard road, and crosses the Moesa. Below the confluence of
the Moesa and the Ticino lies Arbedo (813'), a village of sad
378 Route 99. BAD ALVANEU.
memory in Swiss history. On 30th July, 1422, a battle took place
here between 3000 Swiss and 24,000 Milanese, in which 2000 of
the former fell. They were interred beneath several mounds of
earth near the church of St. Paul, which is called Chiesa Rossa
from its red colour.
451/2 M. Bellinzona, see p. 107.
99. From Coire to the Engadine over the
Alhula Pass.
Comp. Map, p. 400.
Diligence daily in summer: via Churwalden and Lenz to Samaden,
45 M., in 121/2 lirs. (18 fr. 15 c, coup^ 21 fr. 80 c. ; to Bergiin, where pas-
sengers dine, in 7 hrs. ; from Bergiin to Ponte 4 hrs.); from Samaden to
St. Moritz, 5 JI., in 1 br. 10 min. (in immediate correspondence with the
preceding); from Samaden to Pontresina, 31/2 M., in 55 min. — Extra-
Post and pair from Coire to Samaden 133 fr. 50 c., or by the Schvn and
Albala passes 149 fr. 60 c. ; to St. Moritz 144 fr. 70 or 160 fr. 80 c ; to' Pont-
resina 143 fr. 30 or 159 fr. 40 c.; to Maloja Kursaal 155 fr. 70 c. or 169 fr.
— Carr. and pair from Coire to Bergiin 70, over the Albula Pass to Sa-
maden (rather far for a single dav) 120, Pontresina or St. Moritz 110,
Tarasp IfO fr. (via Scbyn and Albula 80, 110, 120, or 180 fr.). — A most
interesting route ; fine mountain-scenery. The pass itself is a wild rocky chaos.
From Coire either via Churwalden to Lenz in 81/4 hrs., or via
Thusis and Schyn to Tiefenkasten in 51/4 hrs., see R. 100. The Albula
road diverges at Lenz (or Tiefenkasten) to the left from the Julier
road, passes (16'/2 M.) Brienz (p. 355 ; a direct path to Surava and
Bad Alvaneu diverges to the right at the last house of Brienz, then
turns twice to the left at intervals of 5 min.), and below the ruined
chateau of Belfort, and descends the Crapanaira Ravine in long
windings to —
20 M. Bad Alvaneu (3116') in the Albulathal, where the roads
from Lenz and Tiefenkasten unite. The sulphur-springs are of repute
for rheumatism, etc. *Kurhaus (R., L., & A. 21/2-5, D. 31/2, pension
6I/2-II fr. ; one-horse carr. to Bergiin 9, Wiesen 8, Tiefenkasten
41/2 fr.). On the opposite bank is a picturesque waterfall.
The Piz Michel (10,375' ; 6-7 hrs. ; with guide) may be ascended by
experts without much difficulty from Bad Alvaneu through the Scha/tcbel.
View of striking grandeur. — In the Val Spadlaischa, 4 hrs. above Bad
Alvaneu or Filisur, and 3 hrs. from Bergiin (p. 379), is the Aela Club Hut
(7020'), from which the Tinzenhorn (10,430') may be ascended in 4 hrs.,
and the Piz d'Aela (10,960') in 4V2-5 hrs. (both difficult and requiring ex-
perience). Difficult descent from the Tinzenhorn on the steep W. side to the
Timenthor Pass (p. 381) and by the Tigiel Alp to Tinzen (p. 381).
Above Alvaneu (1 M.) the road crosses the Landwasser, which
falls into the Albula here, and ascends to the right to (1 M.)
Filisur (3410'; *Hdt. Schonthal) , a pleasant village, commanded
by the scanty ruins of Greifenstein (3985'). We then descend to
the Albula, cross it by a covered wooden bridge, and gradually
ascend the thickly wooded valley to (2 M.) Ballaluna (3615'), a
disused iron-furnace, now a saw-mill (Inn, with a few beds), where
we again cross the stream. We ascend in a curve, which the old
ALRULA PASS. .99. Route. 379
path following the telegraph-wires cuts off, and enter the (IY4 M.)
*Bergiiner Stein I^U Crap, 4280'), a profound gorge with perpendi-
cular sides. For 800 paces the road, constructed in 1696, and
originally 4-6' wide, is hewn through the solid rock, being protected
at places by a wall. The brawling stream at the bottom of the gorge
is visible at one point only. At the end of the gorge, on the right,
tower the Tinzenhorn (10,430') and the Piz d'Aela (10,960'), and
we enter the green basin, enclosed by wooded hills, of (l'/2 M.) —
27 M. Bergan, Roman. Bravuogn (4475'; pop. 423; *Hot. Piz
Aelu or Post , D. 3, fr. ; Kreuz; Sonne), a thriving village, with a
handsome prison-tower, an old Romanesque church, and a mineral
spring lately discovered (bath-house).
Excursions (guide P. Metiier). Above Bergiin, to the N.E., is the vil-
lage of Latsch (5215'), on the slope of the Latscher Kulia (or Cuolm da
Latsck, 7515' ; ascent repaying, 2 hrs.). — Over the Sei-liy Pass to Davos,
see p. 353. — Over the Fuorcla Fischa (9193') to MaduUin, fatiguing,
9-10 hrs., with guide, through the Val Tuors and the Val Plathi. From
the pass, between Piz Kesch and Piz Blaisun, we may ascend the Piz
Kesch (11,228') in 2 hrs. (but better from the Alp Chiaclavuot, p. 353, over
the Porchabella Glacier in 5 hrs.; comp. p. 353). — Piz d''Aela and Tinzen-
horn, see p. 378. (The Aela Hul is reached from Bergiin by the Alp Uglix
in 3 hrs.). — Over the Aela Pass (9585'), between Piz d'Aela and Piz Val-
Lung, to the Val d Err and Tinzen (p. 381), via Aaz (see below), 5 hrs.
(guide), interesting and not difficult.
We now ascend the beautifully wooded valley, passing the Val
Tisch on the left. The Albula forms several small waterfalls and
one of some size above the (31/2 M.) Alpine hamlet of Naz (5725').
On the bold pinnacles to the right (Piz d'Aela, Piz Val-Lung, Piz
Salteras) are seen patches of snow at places. The road ascends in
long windings, past the chalets of Preda and Palpuogna, and on
the right, below the road, the pale-green Lake of Palpuogna , to
the (23/4 M.) Inn on the Weissenstein, Roman. Cm;) Alv (6660'). It
next describes a wide curve (footpath to the left much shorter) at
the base of the two rocky horns of the Giumels (9137'; short-cut to
the left), avoiding a marshy basin in which the Albula rises, and
ascends the rock-strewn Teufelsthal to the (21/4 M.) Albula Pass
(7595'; *Hospice,^l2Lin), a marshy plateau, ^/^ M. long, lying between
the summits of the Albulastock, the Crasta Mora (9636') on the
right , consisting of granite , and the Piz Vertsch , or Albulahorn
(10,738'), on the left, being limestone.
The road now descends a dreary valley sprinkled with chalets.
Before us rises the Piz Mezaun, a fine pyramid ; adjoining it on the
right, at the head of the Val Chamuera, are the Piz Lavirum and Piz
Cotschen ; farther to the right are the Piz Muraigl and PizLanguard.
In descending the seven long bends of the road we also obtain fine
views of the Piz Quatervals and Piz del Diavel , and afterwards of
Ponte and Camogasc, with Madulein and Guardavall on the hill to
the left. Traversing a larch-wood we at length reach (5 M.) —
41 M. Ponte (5548'). Thence to Samaden, see p. 399; to
Schuls and iSauders, see R. 103.
380
1 00. From Coire to the Engadine over the Julier.
Comp. Maps, pp. 384, 400, 392.
Diligence to Samaden in summer daily by Churwalden in 13V4 lii'S.
(20 fr. 75, coupe 24 fr. 90 c), by the Schyn in 141/4 brs. (22 fr. 75, coupe
27 fr. 50 c). — ExTRA-l'osT and pair from Coire to Samaden 145 fr. 10 c.
(or by the Schyn and Julier, 160 fr. 40 c). — Carr. and pair from Coire
to St. Moritz over the Julier 120, to Pontresina or Samaden 110 fr. (by
the Schyn and Julier 110 or 120 fr.).
Coire (1936'), P- 345. By the Steinbock Hotel the road crosses
the Plessur and ascends in windings (several short-cuts), with fine
views of the town , the Rhine Valley, and the Calanda. To the E.
opens the Schanfiggthal (p. 355), watered by the Plessur in its deep
channel. A finger-post l'/4 M. from Coire indicates the route to the
left to the Bad Passugy (p. 347), and another, 8/4 M. farther, the
way to the KdnzU (p. 347). We ascend the valley of the Rabiusa,
which falls into the Plessur far below, and then pass Malix (3800';
with a mineral spring) and the ruin of Strassberg .
6 M. Churwalden (3976'; *KTone; *Hot. Oengel, R. & A. 21/2
fr. ; *H6t.-Pens. Mettier ^ Schweizerhaus ; Pens. Hemmi, *Roth-
horn, Kreuz'), a health and whey-cure resort, with an old church and
the former monastery of Aschera, lies picturesquely in a narrow valley.
The road ascends more rapidly; a pleasant path through wood
runs parallel with it, on the left bank of the stream which it cross-
es immediately before —
8 M. Parpan (4956'; *Kurhaus ^' Post, R., L., & A. 31/2 fr-;
*H6t. Stdtzerhorn, pension 6-8 fr.), a pleasant Alpine village in an
open situation. The ancestral mansion of the Buol family, built at
the end of the 16th cent., contains rooms in the mediaeval style and
old family-portraits.
Pleasant walk to the (I3/4 hr.) Churer Joch (6686'), at the foot of the
OUrgaletsch: view of Coire, the Rhine Valley as far as the Sentis, etc.
The 'Statzer Horn (Piz Jiaschil, 8458'; 3 hrs., without guide), a favourite
point of view, the highest peak of the range betvi^een the valley of Chur-
walden and the Domleschg (see p. 368), is ascended from Parpan by the S.
A. C.'s new bridle-path. Beyond the hamlet of Sartuns straight on, avoid-
ing the path to the right. Inn closed and falling to decay. Grand pano-
rama of the valleys of Schanflgg, Churwalden, Oberhalbstein , Schams,
Domleschg, and the Vorder-Rhein as far as Ilanz ; of the entire Rhsetikon
Chain, Calanda, Todi, St. Gotthard , Piz Beverin , Rheinwald Glacier,
Piz Tambo , Bernina, Albula, etc. (Panorama by A. Hcim). Beautiful
pastures and rare plants on the slopes. The descent on the Domleschg side
is longer, and the last part is fatiguing, but cannot be mistaken ; this route
leads by the Alps of Raschil and Schall to the chalets of Almens, and
then to the left to Schavans and Thusis in the Rhine Valley (4 hrs. in all).
Mountaineers may also descend by Obervatz to the Solis Bridge (p. 369).
From Parpan to Arosa, 472 hra., see p. 356.
We soon reach the top of the pass (5090') and obtain a fine view
of the Oberhalbstein Mts., those above the »Schyn Pass on the right,
the beautiful Lenzer Horn (9548') on the left , with the adjoining
Piz Michel (10,375'), and in the opposite direction the Calanda
(p. 347). We descend to Valbella and Canols, pass several tarns and
the Heidersee (4898') , surrounded by forest (* Chalet-Restaurant
TIEFENKASTEN. 100. tioute. 381
on an island, pens. 4-5 fr.), cross the wooded Lenzer Ileide, Rod:.
Planeira , a region justly dreaded during snow-storms , to Lai and
the (23/4 M.) *Kurhaus Lenzer Heide (4775'; pension 5-6 fr.).
Travellers bound for the Schi/n Road take the road diverging; to the
right at Lai Of-z M. to the N. of the Kurhaus), which leads over the Heid-
bach to (50 min.) Ohervatz (4015'). We keep to the left before reaching
Obervatz , so as to avoid the roads leading to Lain, which lies higher.
Beyond Obervatz we descend abruptly via, Zorien and Nivaigl to (40 min.)
the Solis Bridge (p. 369).
141/2 M. Lenz, Roman. Lansch (4285'; Krone or Post), an im-
portant military point before the construction of the Spliigen route.
The Due de Rohan in 1635, and Lecourbe in 1799 took up a posi-
tion here against the Austrians. Alhula Road to Bad Alvaneu and
Bergiin, see p. 378.
Our road descends in numerous windings (avoided by short-cuts)
to the (3 M.) Albula, overlooking the picturesque Oberhalbstein
and, to the W., the Heinzenberg beyond the Schyn Pass; in the
foreground is the village of Alvaschein on a height ; beyond the
Schyn Pass lies Stiirvis (p. 369); and far below is Tiefenkasten.
Near the farm of Vazerols , to the right, below the road, is a small
monument marking the spot where the Three Leagues took the oath
of eternal union in 1471 (comp. p. 344).
171/2 M. Tiefenkasten , more correctly Tiefencastel , Roman.
Casti (2790'; *H6t. Julier, R., L., & A. 4, B.IV2 fr.; *n6t. Albula,
R., L., & A. 3, B. 11/4, D. 3 fr. ; Kreuz) lies picturesquely in a deep
valley, with its church on aheight (2917') above the confluence of the
Julia and the Albula. (To Surava and Bad Alvaneu, seep. 378;
*Schyn Road to Thusis, see p. 369.)
The road again ascends rapidly, and skirts the Stein, a bold
limestone cliff. Far below flows the Julia or Oberhalbstein Rhine.
(The Romanic word Rhein means 'flowing water'.) "We next enter
(41/2 M.) the broad and populous part of the valley called the Ober-
halbstein (Sur Seissa) , 5 M. in length , and pass the villages of
Burvein, (I1/4M.) Conters, and (8/4 M.) Savognin (4060'; *Hdt.
Piz Michel ; *Rhdtia). On the W. slope lie Salux, Prdsans, Reams
(with a handsome castle, now a prison), and other villages.
Excursions. Piz Curver (9761'; 5 hrs.; guide), from Savognin by
Ziteil, not difficult, a very fine point (see p. 370 ; descent to Zillis or
Andeer). — From Savognin to Aussee-Fekrera over the Fianell Pass,
5'/2 hrs., easy and pleasant. A narrow road leads through the smiling
Tal Nandrh to the (2 hrs.) Alp Ctirtins (6398'); here we ascend to the
right to the (1 hr.) Alp Schmorras (7500') and the (I hr.) Fianell or
Schmorras Pass (S350'), opposite the P^z Grisch {Piz Fianell, 10,OaT) ; then
descend by the Alp Moos and StiU Foina to (li/-.' hr.) Ausser-Femva (p. 371).
We next reach (I1/4 M.) Tinzen, Rom. Tinizung (4070'; Hot.
Tinzenhorn), prettily situated at the mouth of the Val d^Err. In the
background rise Piz Val-Lung and Piz d'Aela (p. 378).
From Tinzen to Bergiin over the Aela Pass, 4 hrs., see p. 379. To
the N. a trying route (5 hrs.; with guide) crosses the Tinzenthor Pass (8465'),
hetween the Piz Michel and the Tinzenhorn, to Bad Alraneu (p. 378).
— Piz Uichel (10,375'; 6 hrs.; with guide), more difficult from here than
382 Route 100. MOLINS. From Coire
from Alvaneu (p. 378). — To Samaden over the Errjoch (10,270'), 9 brs.,
with guide, laborious, but repaying. Ascent through the picturesque
Val d'Err and over tlie Err Glacier to the pass, lying to the N.E. of the
Piz d'Err (see below) ; descent through the Val Bever (p. 390).
Above Tinzen the Julia forms several fine waterfalls. The road
leads alternately through curious rounded basins, probably formed
by erosion, and picturesque rocky ravines. We next reach (1 V2 M.)
Roffna (4760') and (23/4 M.) —
29 M. Molina, Ger. Milhlen (4793'; *Ldwe, R. 21/2, D- in<;l.
wine, 4 fr.), beautifully situated, where the diligence halts for dinner.
From the Val da Faller, which debouches here and divides into the Val
Gronda and the Val Bercla s/i hr. farther up, routes little used (guide) cross
the Val Gronda Joch (9193'), on the E. of the Weissberg, to (6 hrs.) Cresta
(p. 371), and the FalUrjoch (about 9O9O0, past the Fliih Lakes to (S'/z hrs.)
Jitf in the Averser Thai (p. 371). — The Piz Platta (11,110'), ascended
through the Val Faller and Val Bercla in 5'/'2 hrs. (guide), commands a
splendid view. — Piz WErr {[ld3S'), Piz d'Arhlalsch (10,512), and Piz Fov-
bisch (10,690'), for experts (guides at the 'Lowe').
The route from this point to Stalla, skirting the rapid Julia,
presents a succession of grand rocky landscapes. One of the finest
points is near the bridge before (3/4 M.) Sur is reached. On a beau-
tiful wooded hill, in the middle of the valley, stands the square
watch-tower of Spliidatsch (5260'; path to it beyond Sur; fine view).
On the right, 2/4 M. farther, appears the ruined castle of Marmorera,
partly built in a rocky cavity halfway up the hill. The next villages
are (IY4 M.) Marmorera (^Marmels, 5360'), at the mouth of the
Val Natons, Stalvedro (5613'), and (3 M.) —
34 m. Stalla (5827'; *Lanz's Inn), ot Bivio, the Roman Biwium,
where the Julier and Septimer routes separate.
The Septimer Rodte, a bridle-path (to Casaccia 4 hrs.; guide un-
necessary in fine weather), one of the oldest Alpine routes, anciently tra-
versed by Roman and German emperors with their armies, has recently
regained its popularity with tourists. It diverges to the right from the
road above Stalla, and ascends the Val Cavreccia. At the chalets of (1 hr.)
Cadval it crosses the brook, enters a defile, and ascends the somewhat
marshy meadows of Plan Canfir, to the (1 hr.) Septimer Pass (Passo di Sell;
7582'), with a dilapidated hospice. (Over the Forcellina to Juf, and by
Lunghino to the Maloja, see p. 371.) A height to the left of the pass,
indicated by two stones, commands a magnificent view of the mountains of
the Maloja," Piz della Margna (10,354'), Monte dell' Oro (10,544'), etc. De-
scent by a rough paved path, crossing the Septimer Bach (Acqua di Seitimo)
three times, to the valley of the Mera, and on its left bank, the latter
part very steep and stony, to (2 hrs.) Casaccia (p. 410).
From Stalla to Andeer, over the Stallerberg and through the Averser
Thai and Val Ferrera, see p. 371. — To Sils over the Fuorcla di Gravas-
alvas (8806'; with guide), 5'/2 hrs., interesting. Below the .Tulier Pass
we ascend to the right, past the small Gravasalvas Lake, to the pass, on
the W. side of the Piz Lagrev, with a fine view of the Bernina, etc.; then
a steep descent to the Lake of Sils (p. 386).
The road, completed in 1827, ascends the stony slopes of the
Jnlier (^Giulio, 7500') in numerous windings (carriages ascend In 2
and descend in 1 hr.). Walkers cross the bridge to the left beyond
the church of Stalla, and reach the Pass in 1^/4 hr. From Novem-
ber to the middle of May the mountain is usually crossed by sledges,
but the Julier is clear of snow before any other pass of equal height,
to the Engadine. JULIER. 100. Route. 383
and the least exposed to avalanches. A little on this side of the
summit are a few houses (7360'~) including a rustic inn. On the
(38'/2 M.) summit of the pass (7500') are two round milestones of
mica-slate, 5' in height, without inscription, erected in the time of
Augustus, who constructed a military road from Clavenna (p. 374) to
the Curia Raetorum (Coire) over the Maloja and the Julier. Roman
coins have also been found here. Near the milestones, to the right,
is a small clear lake, which contains trout notwithstanding its great
height.
In summer large flocks of Bergamasque Slieep are usually met with
on the slopes and heights of the Julier, as on all the S. mountains of
the Grisons. The picturesque pastori in charge of them come chiefly
from the Seriana and Brembana valleys and Ticino ; they are a rough,
free-spoken race, but honest and trustworthy. They wear long curling
locks, mantles of brown or white wool, and brown peaked Calabrian hats.
Their food consists of maize pottage (polenta) and a little cheese. They
arrive in June with their flocks in a miserably lean condition, owing
to their long journey, and leave again at the end of August, when their
sheep present a vastly improved appearance, and are covered with long
wool, which is bought by the manufacturers of Bergamo. During the
summer about 40,000 sheep are thus brought to graze on these lofty
pastures , the owners paying 1 fr. per head for the right.
On the E. slope of the Julier, 1 M. from the top, lies the small
Julier Alp, with two chalets. On the left rise Piz Julier and
Piz d'Albana, and on the right Pis Pulaschin. In descending we
soon obtain a superb view of the snow and ice mountains of the
Bernina (p. 393). In the foreground rise Piz Surlej and Mt. Arias,
above which tower Piz Tschierva, Piz Morteratsch, Piz Bernina and
Piz Corvatsch on the right , and Piz della Margna still more to the
right. The Upper Engadine, with its green lakes, comes gradually
into full view. From the top of the pass to Silvaplana 5 M.
431/2 M. Silvaplana [59580, and thence to —
51 M. Samaden (5670'), see pp. 387-91.
ENGADINE.
The *Engadiiie (Rom. Engiadina'), a valley BOM. long, and
seldom more than 1 M. broad, descending from S.W. to N.E., and
•watered by the Inn, is bouuded by lofty mountains , partly covered
with glaciers and snow. The Upper Engadine, between the Maloja
and Samaden, with its numerous picturesque lakes and the valley
of Pontresina , is the most attractive part of the valley , while the
Lower Engadine (R. 103), below Samaden, is also very picturesque
at places. The scenery of the Engadine is on the whole rather im-
pressive than picturesque. The strong and bracing air of the Upper
Engadine makes that region one of the most famous health-resorts
in the world.
The temperature rises in summer to 66-76° Fahr. in the shade, but a
fall of 35-40° within the 24 hrs. is not unfrequent. In winter the ther-
381 Route 101. MALOJA. Upper
inometer frequently falls to 30-40° below zero. 'Nine months winter and
three months cold', is the laconic , but rather exaggerated account the
natives give of their climate. Very abrupt changes in the temperature,
and even white frosts and snow are by no means uncommon in August, so
that winter-wraps should not be forgotten Ijy those who purpose to spend
even a few weeks here.
At first sight the bottom of the Upper Engadine resembles a vast and
almost treeless meadow. The cultivation of corn is almost unknown, and
tillage of any kind uncommon, except at Maria and Pontresina, where we
observe a few small gardens, miserable potato-fields, a few patches of oats,
and in very favourable seasons a little rye. The pasturage is excellent,
but is seldom in the hands of the inhabitants, being let by them to the
Bergaraasque shepherds (p. 383), or to tenants who engage Italian reapers
to collect the hay. The lower slopes of the mountains are chiefly clothed
with the larch and the pinn.i cembra, or Swiss stone-pine (Ger. .4r»e), a
stately tree, sometimes called the 'cedar of the Alps', but commoner in
the Pyrenees, the Carpathians, and the south of Siberia than in Switzer-
land. Its light, close-grained wood, which is white in colour and has a
pleasant fragrance, is extremely durable, and is much esteemed for ca-
binet-work. The kernels (30 to 40) of the cones, enclosed in a very hard
triangular shell, have a pleasant flavour, not unlike that of the pine-apple.
The Engadiners, a sober, industrious, and frugal race, are with few
exceptions, Protestants. The Romanic mother-tongue renders all the Ro-
mance languages comparatively easy to them, while they are taught German
in the schools from the age of ten. They frequently emigrate in early life
to different parts of Europe, where they earn their living as confectioners,
coffee-house keepers, makers of liqueurs and chocolate, etc.; and when
they have amassed a competency they usually return to their native valleys
to spend the evening of a busy and active life. To persons of this class
belong many of the comfortably furnished and neat white houses in the
Engadine. The windows are made small to exclude the cold.
The government of the valley is a pure democracy. 'Next to God
and the sun, the poorest inhabitant is the chief magistrate', says an old
Engadine proverb-, certain noble families, however, such as the Plantas
(p. 391) , have for centuries enjoyed considerable influence , which has
hitherto been used beneficiallv.
101. The Upper Engadine, from the Maloja to
Samaden,
Comp. Map, p. 3!)2.
Diligence twice daily, comp. p. 410. Omnibus from Maloja to Sils in
1 hr., on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 6 p.m.; to St. Moritz daily in I'/z hr.,
at 6.30 p.m. and 5.30 a.m. (3 fr.; there and back 5 fr.). As the Upper
Engadine is crowded in summer, rooms had better be ordered beforehand.
— Heavy luggage may be forwarded through Messrs. Bavier, Kieni, <£• Co.,
of Coire and Silvaplana (Sonne inn).
The region known as the Engadine begins at the summit of the
pass of the Maloja, or Maloggia (5960'), which descends steeply
on the W. side to the Val Bregaglia fto Chiavenna, see p. 410). A
little before the summit, on the S. side, is the Hotel Maloja-Kulm,
opposite a projecting rock commanding a beautiful view of the Val
Bregaglia, and and beyond it is the (1/4 M.) Osteria Vecchia, in the
Swiss style. To the left, higher tip, is the unfinished Chdteau of
Count Renesse ("6128'), commanding an extensive view over the
Val Bregaglia; the 'Chemin des Artistes', the finest of the numerous
picturesque walks round the chateau, leads from the Kursaal and
h I
.^°*.s
f
r ^
**
2p(* ""I * I J.
^ 5-.
I = r I * -' ^
Engadine. MURETTO PASS. 101. Route. 385
back in 1 hr. Farther on are some private houses in the Swiss
style, and the Hotel Longhin (pens. 6 fr.). To the right of the road
at the upper end of the Lake of Sils, is the large *U6tel Kursaal-
MalojalR., L., & A. 5V2-8, Luncheon 4, D. 6, pens. 10-15 fr.),
Q-wned by a Belgian company, open from 1st June to the end of
September English Church Service.
Excursions. Below the pass, a little to the W., a footpath, and '/« M.
farther a road diverge to the left from the Maloja road, and cross the Or-
legna (waterfall, see below) near the lowest houses of the hamlet of Ordeno
and lead on the left bank through meadows and woods to the (50 min.)
sequestered, dark-blue *Cavloccio Lake (6243'), surrounded by lofty moun-
tains : to the S. the finely shaped Monte del Forno (10,545'Ji to the left
of it the snowy Muretto Pa.ss (see below). The road ends at the large
chalets on the S. hank, where, however, nothing is to be had in the height
of summer, when the cattle are pastured on the higher alps. From this
point to the Forno Glacier and back, 2 hrs. (see below).
The Orlegna Fall is reached by descending the windings of the Maloja
road to a (1 M.) finger-post, and diverging by a path to the left, which leads
to a (2 min.) rocky plateau above the chief fall.
To the Forno Glacier (guide advisable), also interesting. We follow the
Muretto route (see below) to the (IV2 hr.) Alp Plancanino (6520') ; then ascend
to the right for 3 4 hr. over turf and moraine to the Forno Glacier, on the
right side of which we ascend (guide necessary) to (l'/2 hr.) the new Cliib-
hvt of the S.A.C. (about 8200'), at the S.W. base of the Mte. del Forno
(10,545'). Imposing amphitheatre of glaciers, commanded by the Piz Ba-
cone, Ciima di Cantone, Cima di Castello, Pizzo Torrone, Mte. Sissone,
Cima di Rosso, and Monte del Forno. — Over the Forno Pass (about
10,500'), between the Pizzo Torrone (10,825') and the Monle Sissone (11,030'),
to the Val di Mello and the Bagiii del Masino, 11 hrs. from the Maloja,
for experts only, with good guides, see p. 410. — Over the Casnile Pass to
the Albigtia Glacier, see below.
Piz Lunghino (9120'), 3 hrs., easy (with guide). From the Hotel
Longhin a bridle path leads to the left over pastures to the (2 hrs.) blue
Lung/lino Lake (8136'), from which the Inn emerges, and thence a footpath
ascends over rocks and stones to the top. Splendid view. To the W.
of the lake we may cross the Fuorcla di Lunghino (8645') to the (I'/z hr.)
Septimer (see pp. 372, 382). — The fallowing peaks should be attempted
only by experts, with able guides: Piz Bacone (10,637'; 5-6 hrs.); Cima di
Castello (11,158'; 7 hrs.); Pizzo Torrone (10,325'; 6-7 hrs.); Mte. Sissone
(11,030'; 7 hrs.), and Cima di Basso (11,013'; 6 hrs.).
From the Maloja ovkr the Muretto Pass to Chiesa in the Val
Malenco, 7 hrs., new and easy bridle-path, repaying (with guide). We
ascend on the right bank of the Orlegna to the (IV2 hr.) chalets of
Piancanino (6520'), which we leave on the right. Then a steep climb over
debris and the Muretto Glacier to the (l'/2 hr.) Muretto Pass (8390'), between
the Mte. del Forno (10,545') and the Mte. Murello (10,197'), where we get a
fine survey of the grand Mte. delta Disgrazia (12,050'). Descent over a little
snow, then over stony and grassy slopes on the left bank of the wild
Malero, with admirable views of the Mte. della Disgrazia, the Mte. Sissone,
Cima di llosso, etc., to the Chiareggio Alp (5473'; quarters), and by a new
road to (4 hrs.) Chiesa (3298') in the Val Malenco (p. 409).
From the Maloja to Hondo over the Casnile and Cacciabella Passes
(12 hrs.), most interesting, traversing the grand Bregaglia Mts. (fatiguing,
but for experts not difficult ; good guide necessary). From the (1 hr.)
Alp Piancanino we ascend the Forno Glacier to (IV2 hr.) a height of about
SOW, and thence to the right to the (IV2 hr.) Passo di Casnile (9744'; superb
view). Descent across snow, through a 'cheminee', and over rock, to the
foot of the Cantone Glacier, and then across two moraines to the (1 hr.)
Albigna Glacier. (Those who wish to divide the walk between two days, or
Baedeker, Switzerland, lotli Edition. 25
386 Route 101. SILS. Upper
to go through fhe Val Alliigna to Vicosoprano, should descend to the right
to the chalet at the Cascata deW Albigna , V/2 hr. from the Pass, instead
of to the left to the Cantone Glacier.) We next ascend the stony slope of
Cacciabella ('fine hunting''; a resort of chamois) to the (2 hrs.) Fasso di
Cacciabella (9444'), another fine point of view, and descend to the (I'/a-S
hrs.) Alp di Sciora (67850, grandly situated, and through the wild Val Bon-
dasca (p. 412) to (2'/2 hrs.) Bondo (p. 411).
At the Kursaal we cross the infant Inn, here called Ova d'Oen,
which descends in several falls from the Piz Lunghino (9120') to
the W., and at the chalets of Capolago reach the pale-green Lake
of Sils, Rom. Lej da Segl (5890'), 41/2 M. long and 240' deep, the
N.W. bank of which we follow. Walkers should take the path
leading from the Kursaal along the S.W. bank, passing the hamlet
of Isola, which lies on a green plateau at the mouth of the Fedoz
(to Sils-Maria, I1/.2 hr.). Above Isola appears the beautiful Piz Cor-
■vatsch (p. 397), beyond the Crap da Chiiern, a rocky promontory
which divides the lake into two basins. As we approach the peninsula
of Chaste (see below), the rifted Fedoz Glacier, at the head of the
Val Fedoz, between the Piz della Margna on the right and the Piz
Led on the left, appears to the S., above Isola.
At the E. end of the lake lies (l^/a hr.) —
41/2 M. Sils (5895'), Rom. Segl, embracing the hamlets of Sils-
Baseglia (with the diligence office), immediately to the right of the
road, and overshadowed on the N. by the precipitous Piz Lagrev
(10,400'), and Sils-Maria, '/2 M. to the S., pleasantly situated among
low larch-covered hills, through which the Fex flows. The wooded
peninsula of Chaste (castle), which stretches into the lake between
the hamlets, contains pleasant promenades, and bears traces of the
walls of an ancient castle. Sils-Maria {*Alpenrose, R., L., & A. 31/2,
D. 4, S. 3, pens. 9'/2 fr. ; *H6t. Edelweiss, similar charges) is well
adapted, on acount of the numerous shady walks in the vicinity,
for a residence of some time, especially for families.
Omnibds from Sils-Maria to St. Moritz daily at 7 a. m. , returning at
10.30 a.m. (nn Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. also at 2 p.m., returning at
5.30 a.m.), in 1 hr. : to the Maloja Hotel on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 2
p.m., returning at 6 p.m., also in 1 hr. Fare for each route, I'/z, there
and back 2V2 ir. — Carriage with one horse from Sils to St. Moritz 10,
to Pontresina 16 fr.
Walks, all provided with guide-posts. Immediately to the E. of the
Hotel Alpenrose is the Mvot Maria, a small hill with view. The three
chief points of "'View among the low larch-covered hills (behind and to
the W. of the hotel), over which passes the narrow road to the valley of
Fex, beginning at the bridge over that stream, are the Laret- Hohe
(15 min., in the direction of Silvaplana), the Bellavista (20 min., in the
direction of the JIaloja), and a bench on the above-mentioned road (20 min. ;
view of a fall on the Fex and over the wooded hills in the foreground
to the snow and ice-covered mountains of the Fex valley beyond). — The
ascent of the Muot Marmovi (about 7220'), the rounded spur of the rugged
Furtsckellas (9320' and 9620'), forms an attractive and easy excursion (IV4 hr.
from the Hotel Edelweiss). The Piz Corvatsch adjoins the Furtschellas
on the E. — Pleasant walks lead eastward from the Hotel Edelweiss along
the wooded slopes to a saw-mill, and thence to (i^/t hr.) Surlej. — Another
fine view may be enjoyed from the Plaz (6240'), a projection on the slope
of the Piz Lagrev, to which a path, nearly opposite the bridge over the
Engndine. STLVAPLANA. 10]. Route. 387
Inn at Sila-Baseglia, ascends in 20 min. The view towards the Maloja is best
in the morning, towards the Fex Valley and the Piz Corvatsch in the
evening.
The *Fex Valley (Val Fex or Schafthal) may be visited from Sils-
Maria in 4-5 hrs. (there and back). The narrow carriage-road ascends the
left bank of the Fex , while a shorter footpath follows the right bank.
Beyond the bench mentioned on p. 38G the road descends to the farm of
Vaiiglia, but rcascends, leaving the houses of Plalta on the left, to the
little church of (50 min. from Sils) Crasia, shortly before which it is
joined on the left by the above-mentioned foot-path (recommended as a
return route). A * View-Bench, about 3 min. beyond the church, affords
on fine evenings perhaps the most satisfactory view of the mountain-
amphitheatre forming the background of the valley. Those who are pressed
for time may turn here. The road crosses the stream, and reaches ('/4 hr.)
the Restaurant zur Edeliceisshalde, and '/4 M. farther on, beyond the hamlet
of Curtins (6180'), the Restaurant Philipp. Beyond the (10 min.) ruined
house, we recross the Fex, and in 20 min. (ground marshy at places)
reach the top of the Muot Selvas, an old moraine -hill, projecting ob-
liquely into the valley. The S. side of this hill alTords an excellent survey
of the beautiful Fex Glacier, surrounded by the Chapiitschin, Piz Tre-
moggia, the Chapiitsch, Piz Fora, Piz Giiz, and Piz Led. Below us the Fes
emerges from its broad stony bed. In the opposite direction is the green
Fex Valley , with the indented chain of Piz Lagrev and Piz Pulaschin
in the background.
A path (guide unnecessary) ascends to the right from the church of
Crasta to an Alp, then leads to the left through larch-wood to the (IV2 hr.)
Muot Ota (8065'), which commands a view of the Fex and Fedoz Glaciers.
The view is still better higher up, on the way to the Plaun Grand (8200').
— The path to the Fedoz Valley diverges to the S.E. from the carriage-
road to the Fex Valley, at a point about 100 paces to the S. of Vaviglia;
to the Fedoz Chalet, 3/4 hr.
Mountain Ascents (guides , Chr. Klncker and /. Eggenherger). The
Piz Led (10,135'; 4 hrs.), Piz Margna (10,35i'; 4'/2-5 hrs.), Piz Chapiitschin
(11,130'; 41/2-5 hrs.), and Piz Tremoggia iii,S22' ; 5-6 hrs.) may be ascended
from Sils by adepts without difficulty. More toilsome ascents are those
of the Piz GUischaint (11,800'; 5V2-13 hrs.), Piz Fora (11,053'; 6-7 hrs.),
and Piz Corvatsch (5 hrs.; more trying from Sils than from Pontresina,
see p. 397).
From Sils to Pontkesina over the Fuorcla Fex-Roseg, the Fuorcla Cha-
piitschin, or the Fuorcla GUischaint, see p. 398. — To Malenco over the Fe.v
Glaciir and the Tremoggia Pass (9910'j, between the Chapiitsch and Piz
Tremoggia, or over the Fuorcla Fex-Scerscen (10,236'), between Piz Tre-
moggia and Piz GUischaint, both suited only for mountaineers (9-10
hrs.; with guide); descent over ihe, Scerscen Glacier; then steeply, to
the \V. of Mte. Nero, to the Val Entova and Chiesa (p. 409).
Beyond Sils-Baseglia the road (in shade in the afternoon) skirting
the foot of the Pis Pulaschin (9900'), follows the left bank of the
artificial channel of the Inn and that of the Lake of Silvaplana
(5885'), IVs M. long, to (23/4 M.) Silvaplana. Walkers may leave
Sils-Maria by the N., and follow the path over the meadows, then
skirt the larch-clad slope, crossing several brooks, and finally passing
a pretty Waterfall on the Surlej brook, to (I74 hr.) Surlej; thence
they may proceed to St. Moritz, via Crestalta.
71/4 M. SUvaplana (5958'; *Ho«. Rivalta, pens. 8-12 fr. ;
* Wilder Mann ^- Pens. Heinz, R.^^/o, B. 1 fr. 20 c, D. 3, pens. 6 fr. ;
*H6t. Corvatsch, to the W. of the village, witli open view, pens,
from 7 fr.; Sonne^, where we reach the Jiilier road (R. lOO), lies
pleasantly on a green pasture, on the alluvial deposits of the brook
25*
388 Route 101. BATHS OF ST. MORITZ. Upper
descending from the Julier, wlnoli separate the lakes of Silvaplana
and Campfer. Opposite on the E. side of the valley, is the village
of Surlej ('above the lake'), destroyed hy a torrent in 1834. It pos-
sesses a chalybeate spring.
To PoNTUESiNA OVER THE FcoECLA SuRLEj, 7-8 hrs. (guide, not required
by adepts, 10, horse 20 fr.), route improved, very attractive. Beyond the
church of Surlej (see above), we do not turn to the left (route to Crestalta,
see below) but keep straight on, soon cross the brook to the right and
ascend into the wood; 1 hr.. Alp Surlej (G976') ; then to the S. over a pas-
ture, towards the Piz Corvatsch. Further up, above a second chalet, the
path turns to the left, and, near the Corvatsch Glacier^ reaches the (2 hrs.)
Fuorcla Surlej (9040'), between Piz Corvatsch (p. 397; ascended from the
pass in 21/2 hrs.) and Mt. Arias. The magnificent koseg Glacier (p. 394)
is now revealed. Descent over rock and grass to the (l';4 hr.) Alp Surovel
(7424'; milk) and the ('A br.) inn in the Roseg Valley, l^/i hr. from Pon-
tresina (p. 394).
Piz Julier (11,105') from Silvaplana (5 hrs.; guide 20 fr.), trying.—
Easier, but less interesting, is Piz Pulaschin (Q^OO' ; S'/z brs., with guide).
The Silvaplana Lake is connected by a channel 14 yds. broad
with the small Lake of Campfer, which is bisected by a promontory.
The road skirts the W. hank of the latter. Opposite rises the wooded
height of Crestalta (Q2b0' ; mediocre Restaurant), 1 M. from Silva-
plana, which affords an admirable view of the lakes and mountains
of the Upper Engadine. (Footpath to St. Moritz, 3^4 hr.) Below the
Campfer Lake the Inn takes the name of Sela until it enters the Lake
of St. Moritz.
83/4 M. Campfer, Rom. Chamfer (6000'; *H6t. Julierhof; *H6t.
d'Angleterre ; Pens. Caziri). The road divides here. The S. road,
on which the diligence runs in summer, crosses the Inn and leads by
Bad St. Moritz (post-stat.) to the (3 M.) village of St. Moritz, while the
N. road, shorter by '/2M., runs high above the Inn, on its left bank,
and below the Lower Alpina (p. 389 ), to the village.
101/4 M. Baths of St. Moritz. — 'Kdrhaus (Grand Hotel des Bains),
with upwards of 250 beds ; R. for 1-2 pers. usually 10, pens. 8 fr. per day;
visitors can go to the baths and the spring under cover in bad weather.
■'Hotel Victoria, opposite. A few paces farther, on the left bank of the
Inn, "Hotel du Lac, large and first-class, R., L., & A. 10 fr. ; *Hof St.
Moritz ; ''I<:ngadinee Hof. Nearer the village : Hotel * Caf^ Central (good
Munich beer) ; Hotel Bellevde, with the dependance Villa Monplaisir,
R., L., & A. 10-11 fr. — Pensions. Near the Kurhaus: Villa Beausite, Villa
Pidermann- Brugger; near the Hotel Central: Edelweiss, FlUtsch, Zur Hei-
mat, etc. — Band several times daily.
Baths in the long wing of the Kurhaus (7-10 a.m. 2, 10 a.m. to 1
p.m. 2V2, 2-6 p.m. 1'/.! fr.) ; tickets at the post-office in the Kurhaus. —
Phtsicians : Dr. St. Clair Thomson (English), Drs. Briigger , Christeller,
Veraguth and Biermann. — Carriages. With one horse to the village of
St. Moritz or to Campfer 2-3 fr. ; to Pontresina 8V2-IO72 fr. (see p. 389).
— English Church.
The Baths of St. Moritz (5804') owe their importance to a mineral
spring rising at the foot of the Piz Rosatsch, strongly impregnated
with carbonic acid and alkaline salts, pronounced the best of its
kind in Europe by Paracelsus as early as 1539, and annually resorted
to by numerous patients of all nations. The water is used for drink-
Engadine. ST. MORITZ. 101. Route. 389
ing as well as batliiiig. The season is from the middle of June to
the middle of September. Patients will find warm clothing neces-
sary; comp. p. 384.
The grounds in front of the Kurhaus are adjoined by a broad
street, with several fine shops, whicli leads past the Hotel Victoria
and the Post- Office to the lake and the village. On the lake lies
the Casino St. Moritz, with concert, reading, and conversation
rooms, cafe'-restaurant, etc. Concerts take place here several times
a week (adm. 1 fr. per day, subscription cheaper). To the right,
across the Inn, a new Roman Catholic Church is being built; to the
left, on the road to the village, rises the English Church, in the round-
arch style.
Behind the S.W. wing of the Kurhaus promenades, passing
the French Protestant Church, ascend the (20 min.) pine -clad
Quellenhiigel, and lead thence to the (3/4 hr.) Johannisberg. —
Another walk leads on the S. bank of the Lake of St. Moritz
(p. 390), or over the hill at the foot of Rosatsch, to the ('/o hr.) Ada
dUm Lej (dairy and auberge, an afternoon resort), one-third of the
way to Pontresina. — To the (35 min.) Lower Alpina (Restaurant,
dear) a path ascends to the right just beyond the upper Inn bridge,
1/4 M. S.W. from the Kurhaus. Higher up is the ('20 min.) Upper
Alpina. — A guide-post above the Kurhaus, to the N., indicates
the way to the 'Wald Promenade' or Forest Walk, which follows
the slope above the road (see p. 388) between the Alpina and the
village. — To the {^/^ hr.) Crestalta (p. 388) a pleasant wood-walk
ascends to the S.W. from the Kurhaus on the right bank of the Inn.
113 4 M. Village of St. Moritz. — -Hot.-Pens. Esgadiner Kdlm,
an extensive pile of buildings at the upper end of the village, with a
fine view and every convenience for both summer and winter, patronized
by the English and Americans; high charges. The landlord possesses an
old Italian copy of the Sistine Madonna, which may be inspected any
day between 2 and 4. — At the end next the Baths, Hotel Belvedere.
In the village: Hot. -Pens. Caspar - Badrutt ; Steffani ; Hotel-Pens.
SotssE ; Veragdth; Hot.-Pens, Natioxal; Hot.-Pexs. Helvetia, with
restaurant and confectioner's; Hot. -Pens. Wettstein; Zur Post; Hot.
Petersburg, a little below the Engadiner Kulm Hotel, with good view;
Hot. -Pens. Beadrivage, in an open situation, overlooking the lake. —
Pensions, beginning from the lower end: Ehaetia, Villa Berry, Joos. Flvgi,
f^chmidt, Gartmann, Helvetia, Hartmann, Villa zitm Griinen Berg, Fidermann,
Villa Languard, next the Kulm Hotel ; Torjnoni-Badrntt, finely situated
above the lake. Outside the village, on the Samaden road, Pens. Rovinatsch.
Carriages. With one horse to the Kurhaus for i-2 pers. 2, .S-4 pers.
3 fr. ; with two horses 4 or 5 fr. ; to f'ampfir 5-G or 10-12 fr. ; to Samaden
in the forenoon 5-6 or 8-iO fr., in the afternoon G-S or 12-lo fr. ; to Pontre-
tina 8-10 or 15 18 fr. ; to the Bernina Inn 14-16 or 25-28 fr. ; to Poschiavo
40 or 70-80 fr. ; to Chiavenna 45 or 70-90 fr. ; to Coire GO-70 or 120-130 fr. ;
fee for half-a-day 1-2 fr. ; if the shorter excursions are begun in the fore-
noon, 2 fr. more in each case. Omnibus to SilsMaria, in 1 hr., daily at
10.30 a.m., also at 2 p.m. on Tues. , Tliurs. , Sat., and Sun.: to Maloja
daily in I'/z hr. at 10 a. m. and 2 p.m. (3 fr., there and back 5 fr.). Omni-
bus for patients in the forenoon bitwcen the village and the baths.
GriDEii' Tariff given in the difl'erent excursions. — Trespassing on the
meadowa before hay-harvest is punishable by a fine.
390 Roule 101. CRESTA. Upper
St. Moritz, Rom. San Murezzan (6090'; pop. 714), the highest
village in the Engadine, 148' higher than the Maloja, lies on a slope
to the N. of the Lake of St, Moritz, which abounds in trout, and
commands a fine view of the mountains, from the Piz Languard
westwards to the Piz Julier. The majority of visitors are English or
American ; Italians are also numerous. Several hundred patients
usually spend the winter here, which they enliven with skating and
tobogganing.
Excursions. A guide-post at the W. end of the village indicates the
way to the 'Wald-Promenade', which leads in 25 min. to the Alpina
(p. 389). To the Dairy (Ada d' im Lej, p. 389) a pleasant path also leads
from the village in 25 min., on the N. bank of the lake, and across the
Inn which forms a fine waterfall 100 paces below the bridge (Restauvant
<t Pens. Waldhaus, on the right bank). From the dairy a new and very
attractive path leads through the Chafnadiira (gorge of the Inn between
St. Moritz and Celerina) to ('/z hr.) Celerina. A rocky eminence halfway
aflords a charming view. — The Piz Rosa'sch (9825') and the Piz Surlej
(10,455'), both somewhat fatiguing, may be ascended from the Dairy, via
the Statz Alp (comp. p. 397).
From the village of St. Moritz by the ('A lir.) Alp Laret (6893'; good
path thus far) to the (^4 hr.) '■ Sas$ da MuoUas (7766 ')i with fine view
of the Bernina chain and Inn valley; descent through the Yal Saluver to
(3/4 hr.) Celerina.
To the Alp Giop (7168'), 1 hr. ; thence by a path to the top of the *Piz
Nair (10,040'; guide advisable, 7 fr.) 2V2-3 hrs. ; superb view.
To Samaden theohgh the Val Suvretta, and the Val Bevee, 7 hrs.,
interesting, especially for botanists (guide unnecessary). The route from
the baths leads by the Lower Alpina, and that from the village by the
Alp Giop. We then ascend past the Alp Suvretta to the small Suvretta
Lake (8563') and the (3 hrs.) pass (8590') which separates the S. Val Su-
vretta da St. Moritz from the N. Val Suvretta da Samaden. We de-
scend the latter, to the (3/4 hr.) Alp Suvretta- Samaden (7024'), where
the Val Suvretta opens info the Val Sever, and reach the (l'/4 hr.)
Alp PrasUratsch, where a narrow road begins. TLence back to St. Moritz
by carriage previously ordered (one-horse 15 fr.), by Severs and Samaden
in 2 hrs.
An "Excursion on the Bernina Eoad as far as the Hospice (p. 406),
including a visit to the Morteratsch Glacier (p. 393) or the Alp Griim
(p. 407), takes 10 hrs. by carriage (p. 389). Omnibus every afternoon to
Pontresina and to the Morteratsch Glacier.
The Footpath to Pontresina, 1 hr., is shorter than the carriage-
road via Celerina. From the (V2 hr.) Ada d^im Lej (p. 389), it passes the
N. end of the Siatzer See (where the road to Celerina leads straight on),
turns to the right, and then to the left after a few paces, and traverses a
wood, rounding the base of the Rosatsch. About 5 min. below Pontresina
we cross the Flatzbach near the Hotel Eoseg. (Or, we may cross the
Eoseg, to the right, and the Punt Ota ; comp. p. 393.)
The Samaden road ascends for a short distance, and then de-
scends in a long hend through larch-wood (short-cut for walkers hy
the old disused road). On quitting the wood we enjoy an admirable
survey of the Inn Valley, extending nearly in a straight line to the
Munt Baseylia, which appears to close the valley, with Zernetz (p. 400)
lying at its base. Passing Cresta, Rom. Crasta (5690' ; Pens. Misani,
with restaurant), we cross the Schlatteinbach, descending from the
Val Saluver (see above), to —
14 m. Celerina, Rom, Schlarit/na {^Hol.-Pens. Murail, pens.
Engadine. SAMADEN. lUl. Route. 391
from 8 fr.). The road divides here. The branch to the right, to
(1 hr.) Pontresina fp. 392), crosses the Inn and passes the dilapi-
dated chapel of St. Gian, crosses the Berninabach and joins the
Samaden road (see helow). The left branch leads to Samaden.
Footpath through the Charnadiira to the Ada, see p. 390. It diverges
to the right before the Inn bridge, leads through a meadow on the bank
of the Inn, crosses to the right bank, and ascends gradually through vs-ood.
Near Samaden the Flatzbach, descending from the Bernina, falls
into the Inn.
15 M. Samaden. — -Hotel Bernina, R., L., & A. from 41/2, B. iV2,
lunch 3V2, D. 5 fr. ; *Engadiner Hof, R. & A. from 3, B. 1, D. 3V4, S.
2V2 fr. ; both at the lower end of the village; Hot. -Pens, des Alpes;
Hotel zum Innthal ; *Krone , unpretending. — Carriage with one horse to
Pontresina 4, Morteratsch Glacier S , Bernina Pass and back, 15, St. Mo-
ritz 4, the Baths 5, Silvaplana 6, Sils-Maria 8, Maloja 10 fr. — Omnibus
daily from the Hotel Bernina to St. Moritz and to the Morteratsch Glacier.
Samaden, Rom. Samedan (5670' ; pop. 839), the chief village
of the Upper Engadine, with handsome houses and a new English
Church, is another summer resort, beautifully situated on the W.
side of the Inn Valley. The principal house is that of the Planta
family, a name intimately connected with the history of the country
for nearly 1000 years. The old church oiSt.Peter, 1 M. to the N.W.
of the village , is paved with the gravestones of the Planta, Sails,
Juvalta, and other families.
Walks. To the N., past the English church, to the ('/z hr.) Munteriitsc/i,
a larch-clad hill, with a fine view of the Bernina group. Thence to the
right, by a pleasant wood-walk, to the (V2 hr.) saw-mill of Resgia in the
Val Bever. — To the W. in 20 min. to the hill of Salvasplanas, above the
church of St. Peter (see above), and the (1 hr.) Alpetta. — To the S. to
the C/z hr.) wooded hill of Christolais, between Samaden and Celerina.
The 'Muottas Muraigl (8270'; 2'/'2 hrs.) is a very fine point. The bridle-
path (steep and somewhat sunny ; horse or mule 10 fr.) diverging to the
left from the Pontresina road at the bridge over the Inn, descends along
the right bank and after 25 min. turns to the right into the Val Champagna,
through which it ascends, by a steep path to the (2 hrs.) summit. From
this point we survey the glaciers of the Bernina (the Roseg Valley with the
Piz Morteratsch, Piz Bernina, etc., being particularly striking), the green
Upper Engadine with its lakes, from Ponte to the Maloja, and the mountains
on the N. side of the Inn Valley from Piz Lunghino to Piz Kesch. From the
Muottas Muraigl to Pontresina, seep. 396; to the top of the SchaJ berg, I'/zhr.,
see p. 395.
To the W. above Samaden rises Piz Padella, a grotesquely cleft limestone
rock, connected by a rocky ridge with three peaks (Trais Fluors, 'three
flowers'; 9700') with the massive 'Piz Ot (10,660'; 'lofty peak' ; guide 8 fr.).
This granite peak, rising abruptly in a pyramidal form, and formerly ac-
cessible to experts only, is now ascended without danger in 4-4V2 hrs.
from Samaden. The path ascends in zigzags, iron rods being attached to
the rock at awkward places. Bridle-path to the (2V2 hr.) Fontauna Fraida
('cold spring'; 8840'), where it is joined by the direct path from St. Moritz
and Celerine through the Val Saluver and the Fuorcla da Trais Fluors.
Imposing view, little inferior to that from the Piz l.anguard (p. 396). —
The Piz Padella (9460') is ascended from Samaden by a good bridle-path
in 3 hrs., diverging from the Piz Ot route at the point where a small valley
begins at the back of the Padella. 'View of the Inn Valley, from Sil-
vaplana to Zernetz. Rich tlora.
From Samaden to Pontkbsina (31/4 M). The road (Bernina
Road, R. 104) soon crosses the Inn, traverses the bottom of the
392 Route 102. PONTRESINA.
valley, and at the point where it reaches the Flatzbach is joinod by
the road from Celerina (p. 390). It then crosses the Muraigl. Near
Pontresina, to the right, appears the grand Roseg Olacier (p. 394);
in the background rise Piz Morteratsch, Piz Tschierva, La Sella,
and Piz Gliischaint.
102. Pontresina and Environs.
Comp. also Map, p. 384.
Hotels (frequently so full from the middle of July to the middle of
August as to render engagement of rooms in advance prudent). At Onter-
Pontresina: 'Hotel Roseg, at the N. end of the village (patronized ahnnst
exclusively by the English and Americans), R., L., & A. 4V2-6, B. I'/s, lunch
3, D. 6, board 7V2fr.; ''Hot. Enderlin, similar charges; *Weisses Kredz
(Enderlin senr.), R. & A. 3-3V2, B. 1 fr. 20 c, D. 3, S. 2V2, pens, from 9 fr. ;
*Kronenhof & Bellavista, vpith fine view (patronized by English travellers) ;
*H6t. Saratz, beside the large church (see below), R. & A. 4, board 8 fr. ;
«H6t.-Pens. Pontresina, R., I.., & A. from 4, B. l'/2, lunch 2, D. 4 fr. ;
*H6t. Languard, R. & L. S'/z, lunch 3, D. 5, board 7V2 fr. — At Ober-Pont-
resina: Steinbock, R., L., & A. from S'/?, D- 81/2, board 61/2 fr. — Private
Apartments at Villa Jenny, at Walt/ier''s, Caviezel, etc. — Beer at the Hot.
Enderlin, Krcnenliof and the JJ6t. Pontresina ;. and at the Bierhalle (with R.,
pens. 6fr.), above the Hotel Languard. — Cafi '•A ma Campagne', above the
Hotel Pontresina, with pretty view; Cafi Sanssovci (p. 393).
Guides. Hans and his nephew Hans ('de Christian') Grass. Joh. Oross,
Benedict Cadonau. L. Caflisch, Eerviann Freimann, Paul Miiller. Andr. Ranch,
M. Schocher, Chr. SchnitzUr, etc. The charges for the excursions are given
in each case. Traysessel Institute (chaises a porteurs) with fixed tariff.
Photographs, etc., at FliirPs. — Alpine plants at CaviezeVs.
Post & Telegraph Office, below the Hotel Pontresina.
Carriages. The fares here given are the return-fares, and in each case
inchide waiting for 1 hr., each additional hr. 1 fr. for one-horse, 2 fr. for
two-horse carriages. With one horse (1-2 pers.) to Samaden (and Celerina) 5,
with two horses (4 pers.) 10 fr. ; St. Moritz 7 or 14 , Baths of St. Moritz
8 or 15, Silvaplana 10 or 20, SilsMaria 14 or 27, Maloja 17 or 32, Chia-
venna 40 or 70, Roseg Glacier (one-horse only) 9, Morteratsch 5 or 10,
Bernina Hospice 13 or 25 , Poschiavo and Le Prese 35 or 70, Tirano 50 or
90, Bormio 80 or 120, Pontc 8 or 15, Zuz 10 or 20, Zernetz 20 or 40, Siis
25 or 50, Schuls 40 or 70, Tiefenkasten 45 or 80, Thusis 65 or 110, Coire
over the Albula or .lulier Pass and Churwalden 70 or 120, via Thusis 75
or 130; Davos by the Fliiela Pass 60 or 110; Nauders 60 or 105; circular
tour by the Bernina and Stelvio to Schuls and back to Pontresina 170 or
300; over the Fliiela to Davos and back by the Albula, 90 or 170 fr. ; fee
for driver of one horse, half-day 50c., whole day 1 fr. ; for longer excursions
10 per cent of the fare. For each day of rest, 10 fr. per horse.
Drives. To the Bernina Hospice (and walk to the Sassal Masone or th e
Alp Gtriim) , see p. 406. — Morteratsch Glacier (and falls of the Bernina;
walk to the Chiinetta), see p. 393. The two last excursions combined take
a whole day (comp. p. 391). — Roseg Glacier (Alp Ota), see p. 394. — Sils
(Muot JIarmore), see p. 3S6. — Maloja (and Cavloccio Lake), see p. 384.
The two last excursions combined also take a whole day.
Omnibus from Samaden by Pontresina to the Morteratsch Glacier daily.
English Church Service during the season.
Pontresina (5915'; pop. 510), a considerable village, extend-
ing along the right bank of the Berninabach or Flatzbach on both
sides of the Bernina road for more than 1/2 M., consists of Lower
Pontresina (Rom. Laret), with the large church, and Upper Pan-
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PONTRESINA. 102. Route. 393
tresina (Rom. Spiert), about 1/4 M. apart, between which lies a
group of houses called Bellavita , including the Emjlish Church.
Above Spiert are the houses of Giarsun and Carlihof, with the loft-
ily situated little church oiS. Maria (adjoined by the small church-
yard), and the ruined tower of La Spaniola. It is surprising to find
at this elevation such a variety of flowers as some of the little gar-
dens contain ; but their beauty is frequently destroyed by a single
night's frost. Pontresina owes its importance as a mountaineering
station to the proximity of the Bernina Chain, which separates the
Upper Engadine and the Val Bregaglia frona the Valtellina, and is
hardly inferior in grandeur to the Monte Rosa group. This lofty range,
with its vast expanse of neve and glaciers (Rom. Vadret, Ital. Ve-
dretta\ is now so favourite a goal of travellers that Pontresina is
often crowded in summer. The majority of visitors used formerly to
be English; now 500/o are German. Neither the Piz Bernina
(p. 397), the highest peak, nor the other important peaks, are visible
from Pontresina itself.
Excursions. *Schlucht Promenade. By the Hotel Saratz a path
descends to the right, crosses the Berninabach (here flowing in a
narrow gorge) by the Punt Ota (p. 394), and leads to the left
through wood along the edge of the gorge, into which we m.iy de-
scend at either of two points (the second the easier). AttheC/^hr.)
prettily situated Cafe Sanssouci it is joined by a higher path. We
may either descend (to the left) to the bridge over the Flatzbach
and reascend to the Hotel Steinbeck, or return by a path, to the right,
leading through wood to the (^hr.) bridge opposite the Languard
Fall (p. 406), whence we may return by the road. — Tais andRusel-
las Promenades. The Tais Promenade diverges to the right from the
Schlucht Promenade, a little before the chalet Sanssouci and leads to
(i,4hr.) a bench in the Roseg Valley with a fine view of the Roseg
(ilacier. From this point the Rusellas Promenade ascends the Roseg
Valley and then, just above the (8/4 hr.) Ada Colani, crosses the
Roseg to the road leading to the Roseg Glacier (see below), or ascends
for '25 min.more to the second bridge. — TheMuottas da Pontresina
(1 V'ihr.) is reached from the Punt Ota in a straight direction by a
path crossing the Tais Promenade, and ascending through wood to
the 'Signal' (7690')- View inferior to that from the Schafberg. —
The route to the (1 hr.) Ada d'im Lej, near the Lake of St. Moritz
(p. 3b9), crosses a bridge near the Hotel Roseg, and leads straight
on from the top of the hill. The path to the right at the top of
the hill leads to Celerina , that to the left to the Roseg Valley and
the Punt Ota (see above).
The *Morteratsch Glacier ( Vadret da Morteratsch ; guide unneces-
sary; one-horse carr. 5-6 fr.) is 4 M. to the S. of Pontresina. The
best route to it for pedestrians is through the Schlucht-Promenade,
or across the bridge at the Languard Fall, and then by a wood-walk
on the left bank of the brook to the restaurant. The Road diverges
394 Route 102. PONTRESINA. Roseg Glacier.
to the right from the Berniiia road about l'/2 M. beyond a saw-
mill, and ends after less than '/aM. at the 'Kutscher-Platz', where
the traveller alights. (From a point, V2 M. farther up the Hcrnina
road, we obtain an admirable view of the glacier; comp. p. 406.)
Path thence to the (lOmin.) bridge over the Bernina, which forms
several falls above and below the bridge. Then across the Mor-
teratsch Brook to the Restaurant du Glacier Morteratsch (6260', with
a few beds, pens. 7 fr.), grandly situated, 5 min. from the foot of
the glacier (view of the Piz Palii, Bellavista, Crast'agiizza , and
Piz Bernina). In the glacier is an artiflcal grotto (1/2 fr.). — To
the right (on the left side of the glacier), by a reddish cross a path
ascends from the inn, at first through wood, past a chalet, and
about 10 min. beyond it to the right, to the (25 min.) Chi'metta, a
point of view affording a complete survey of the glacier and its
grand environment (from the Munt Pers towards the right : Piz Cam-
brena, Palii, Bellavista, Zupo, Crast'agiizza, Bernina, part of the
Roseg, Morteratsch, Boval, Tschierva). The traveller may venture
on the glacier a little higher up, without danger.
A closer survey is obtained from the Boval Hut (8070'), !•/: hr. higher
up, on the \V. side of the glacier. The path (guide not indispensable)
ascends the slope of the valley from a point 5 min. below the CJhvinetta,
finally through a 'cheminee', to the hut, maintained by the S. A. C, the
starting-point for the Bernina, Palii, etc. (p. 397). Less ambitious travel-
lers should at least (with guide) walk hence across the glacier to the fall
of the Pers Glacier (there and back 3'/2 hrs. ; comp. p. 397).
*Roseg Glacier (road to the inn 6 M., thence to the glacier
'/2 tr. ; one-horse carr. for 1-2 pers. 9 fr.). We cross the Bernina
by the Punt Ota, and then the Roseg Brook, and ascend the left bank
of the latter, between the wooded Piz Chalchagn on the left and the
Piz Rosatseh on the right. After II/2 M. we pass the Ada Colani
(6053') and a bridge across the Roseg below us on the left, and
1 M. farther, by the Alp Prima, cross the brook. A little farther,
there is a good spring on the right. After I1/2 M. more, beyond a
wooded hill (Muot da Cresta), we again cross the brook, and soon
reach the (I/3 M.) s\n&\\ Restaurant du Giac/er (6560'; high charges),
40 min. from the Roseg Glacier, which has receded greatly of
late. The glacier consists of two large ice-cataracts (E. the Vadret
da Roseg, and W. the Vadret da Tschierva), which unite below.
Between them rises the green isolated rock of Aguagliouls, the
northernmost spur of Piz Roseg (p. 398), where sheep graze in
summer. A good survey of the glacier is obtained from the *Alp
Ota (7385') : the path leads from the inn for 20 min. at the same
level, and ascends past a projecting rock on the right to the Q/2 hr.)
two chalets on the Alp. Passing to the right of the chalets, we
reach the best point (on the Mortel-path) in 40 min. more, where
we survey a superb amphitheatre (from left to right : Piz Chalchagn,
Tschierva, Morteratsch, Bernina, Scerscen, Roseg, Sella, Glii-
schaint, Mongia, and Chapiitschin ; between the Morteratsch and
Schafherg. PONTRESINA. 102. Route. 395
Bcriiina the Fuorcla Prievlusa, tetwcen the Scerscen and Roseg,
the Porta Roseg, and hetween the Roseg and Sella, the Sella Pass^.
— For the glacier itself a guide is necessary (to be had at the inn):
a footpath on the right side of the Roseg hrook leads hy the Alp
Misaum to the (1 hr.) Margum Misaum (7396') and thence across
the glacier to the rocky hill of AgungliouU (nearest point, 8780'),
11/2 hr. ; view grander and more complete than from the Alp Ota.
An admirable survey of the glacier is also obtained from the Alp
SuTovel (7424'; milk), 3/, jjp. from the Roseg Restaurant, on the way to
the Fuorcla Surlej (p. 388). — An attractive path, commanding splendid
views, leads from the Alp Ota along the slope to the (1 hr.) Mortel Club
Hut (7840') grandly situated, the starting-point for Piz Roseg, the Sella
Pass, etc. From the hut across the Roseg Glacier to the rock of .i^j/wa^iioi/Zs
l'/4 hr. : back to the Roseg Rest. 2hrs.; a very fine round, with guide (10 fr.).
Mountain Ascents. The most interesting short excursion is the
ascent of the *Schafberg {^Munt della Bescha, 8965'; bridle-path
in 21/2 Its.; guide unnecessary). Good paths lead from the Hotel
Roseg, passing the picturesque chalet of Herr Nitzschner. and to
the left of the large church of Lower Pontresina, to the (20 min.)
hill Crast' Ota (fine views), where they unite. We then ascend
through wood to (li/4hr.) the last bench on the hillside (about
7300*), an admirable point of view. At our feet lie Pontresina and
the picturesque snow-girt Roseg valley, bounded by the Piz Rosatsch
on the right and the Piz Chalchagn on the left, with the glistening
peaks of the Sella, Piz Gliischaint, the Monica or Mongia, and
the Chapiitschin in the background; adjoining the Piz Chalchagn
on the right is the Piz Morteratsch, on the left the Bellavista, Piz
Palii, Piz Cambrena, and Munt Pers, and Sassal Masone ; then the
Languard valley with the Paradies and the Piz Albris ; to the right,
below us , at the foot of the Rosatsch , are the sombre little Lake
of Statz and the blue Lake of St. Moritz ; above these rise the
mountains on the N. side of the Inn, Piz Lunghino, Lagrev, Albana,
Julier, Nair, Ot, and the serrated Crasta Mora near the Albula Pass.
— From this point a bridle-path ascends in II/4 hr. to the top of the
saddle between Las Sours (see below) and the summit of the Schaf-
herg (8965'), to the left, reached in 10 min. more. On the summit
is a stone 'signal' and a weather-cock. The *View embraces the
whole Bernina group (beside the peaks already mentioned we see,
beginning at the Bellavista, the Piz Zupo, Argient, Crastagiizza, Piz
Bernina, Piz Bianco, Mte. di Scerscen, Piz Morteratsch, Piz Roseg;
on the other side of the Roseg valley, Piz Corvatsch, and Piz Surlej),
Piz Uertsch, Piz Kesch, to the right of the Albula, the valley of the
Inn as far as Maloja (with the lakes of Campfer and Sils), and im-
mediately to the E. Tms Sours (^'■les soeurs' ; W. peak, 9780', as-
cended from the Schafberg in 3/4 hr. by a new path ; good view of
the Bernina group and the Ortler). — A path descends the N.
side of the Schafberg in zigzags into the bleak Muraigl Valley,
affording a view of the Piz Vadret (10,400'), to the right. In
396 Route 102. PONTRESINA. Piz Languard.
'/'2 hr. we reacli the bridge over the Muraigl, the right hmik of
which we follow, passing the chalets of Muraigl, to a second bridge,
by which we regain the left bank. We skirt the N. slope of the
Schafberg, through flue wood, and reach the Hotel Uoseg in Pou-
tresina in l/o hr. more.
The 'Muottas Muraigl (.S270'; 2 hrs. ; easy and attractive; guide un-
necessary; horse 10 fr.) is also often ascended from Pontresina; conip.
p. 391. We follow the path just described, indicated by a guide-po.st
near the chalet above the Hotel Roseg, and after I'/i hr. cros<! the bridge
to the Lower Mnraigl Alp (7216'), where the path divides. The shorter
but worse branch ascends very steeply to the left to the ('/i lir.) Upper
Alp (7990'); the right branch goes straight on for some distance, then turns
to the left by a ruined hut, and reaches the upper Alp in '/•! hr. The
best point of view is beside a stone figure, 10 min. farther on, where the
new path from Samaden ends (p. 391). — From the Muottas back to the
Val Muraigl and thence to the top of the Schafberg I'/a hr. ; over the
Schafberg to Pontresina, 3 hrs., see p. 395.
*Piz Languard (10,716'; 4 hrs., way not to be mistaken ; guide,
advisable for novices and alter snow, 8fr. for 3pers., each additional
pers. 2fr. ; horse to the foot of the peak 10 fr.^, fatiguing, but in
tine weather deservedly a favourite point of view. We start early,
in order to avoid the mists which often rise about 8 a.m. ; and in
this case the path is in shade as far as the foot of the peak. From
Lower Pontresina the route is indicated by a guide-post near
the Hotel Languard; from Upper Pontresina we follow the
principal path, to the left, passing the small burial-chapel, and
ascend the stony slope in zigzags , to the (1 hr.) Alp Languard
(7872'; refreshm., dear). Beyond the Alp we ascend the bleak Lan-
guard Valley, to the (IV4 hr.) base (9088') of the Languard peak,
where the bridle-path ends. A steep zigzag path leads hence to
the (IV2 lir.) summit, on which rise an iron flagstaff and a trigono-
metrical signal (wine, coffee, etc., moderate). The view (comp.
Panorama) extends to the S.W. as far as Mte. Rosa, to the S.E. to
the Adamello, to the N.W. to the Todi, and to the N.E. to the Ziig-
spitze. Except St. Moritz with its green lake, Campfcr, and Celerina,
no human abodes are visible.
Mountaineers may descend across the Langtiard Glacier and past the
little Pischa Lake (9121'}, which is sometimes frozen over until late in sum-
mer, to the Val del Fain (p. 403) and the (2V2 hrs.) Bernina houses (guide
11 fr.). In descending we keep several hundred paces to the right of the
waterfall which issues from the lake, as all the other descents are very
steep and difficult. — From the Languard Alp we may ascend the Paun
da Zucher (pain de sucre ; 2'/2 hrs., guide 15 fr.j, and Piz Albris (10,387';
3 bra., guide 20 fr.); both fatiguing.
The *Diavolezza Tour (9-10 hrs., .3 of which may be ridden or
driven ; guide 12 fr. for 4 pars., each additional pers. 2 f r.) is one of the
finest and least fatiguing of glacier-excursions, and is often made.
To shorten the walk we drive from Pontresina tothe Bernina Houses
(6723'; 6 M.; one-horse carr. 6 fr.). If the night be spent here, a
guide must be brought from Pontresina. The path (practicable for
riding for 1 hr.) ascends pastures and stony slopes to the (l'/2 liT-)
picturesciue little Diavolezza Lake (8463'), and then over loose
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Dhvolezza. PONTRESINA. 10-2. Route. 397
stones and a gradual slope of snow to the (l'/2 ^r.) Dinvolezza Pass
(9767'), to the S.E. of Munt Pers ('lost mountain'; 10,533'). Su-
perb *View of the neighbouring Keriiina group: from left to right,
Piz Cambrena, Palii, Bellavista, Crast'agiizza, Bernina, Morteratsch,
and Tschierva ; helow us lie the Pars and Morteratsch glaciers.
Steep descent over debris to the moraine of the Pers Glacier; then
across the glacier to the (1 hr.) rooky Isla Persa; lastly down the
Pers Glacier, across the medial moraine to the Morteratsch Glacier,
and down the latter to the (21/2 hrs.) Hotel Morteratsch (p. 394).
Piz Rosatsch (9825'; 4-5 hrs. ; guide lUfr.) and Piz Chalchagn (ICiiS';
5-6 hrs.; guide 15 fr.J, without special interest. — -Piz Surlej (iO,455';
5-6 hrs.; lOfr.), an admirable point, is best ascended from the Ada d im Lej
on the Lake of St. Moritz, over the Siatz Alp, or from Silvaplana (4-4'/2hrs.).
— -Piz Corvatsch (11,346'; 5'/2-6 hrs.; guide 14, back by Silvaplana lU,
by Sils 25 fr.), somewhat laborious. From the (4';'2 M.) Eoseg Inn (p. 394;
spend night) we ascend to the {^ji hr.) Alp SurovH and follow the Surlej
route to the ('/2 hr.) highest chalet (Margum Sura, 8000') ; then turn to the
left towards a snow-peak visible to the S.W., and ascend grassy and stony
slopes to the (1 hr.) Corvatsch or Alp Ota Glacier. Lastly up the glacier,
the crevasses of which require caution , to the (2 hrs.) summit , covered
with rocks, and generally free from snow. The guides usually halt on
the Piz Mortel (11,293'), but it is preferable to go on to the ('/i hr.) high-
est peak, where the view to the S.W. is far more picturesque. The great
attraction of the view consists in the double survey, to the E. and S.E.,
of the imposing Bernina amphitheatre, and, to the W., of the green Eu-
gadine with its villages and lakes immediately below us. Distant view
very extensive, like that from Piz Languard; on the S.W. it extends to the
Monte Viao. Descent by the Fuorcla Surlej to Silvaplana (comp. p. 388).
The descent on the W. side by Marmori to (3 hrs.) SiU, for experts only,
is steep and trying.
The *Piz Morteratsch (12,315'; 4 hrs. from the Boval Hut ; guide
30 fr.), though requiring a steady head, is the easiest of the higher peaks,
but difficult when there is little snow. — Chapiitschin (11,133'), 8-9 hrs.,
or from the Mortel Hut 4 hrs.; guide 25, with descent to Fex 30 fr. —
Piz Tschierva (11,713'; 5-6 hrs. from the Roseg Inn; guide 20 fr.), fatigu-
ing, but repaying. — La Sella (11,770'; 8-9 hrs ; from the Mortel Hut 4 hrs.;
guide 30 fr.) and Piz Gluschaint (11,806'; same time and fee) are not diffi-
cult, but require experience — Piz Palii (12,835'), conspicuous for the
beauty of its form and the purity of its snow, from the 15ernina houses
7-8, fi-om Boval 7, or from the Capanna Marinelli (p. 398) 5 hrs., trying,
but with good guides (50 fr. , for all three peaks 60 fr.) free from
danger. From the first (E.) peak (12,755) a narrow arete , descending
perpendicularly on the S. side (steady head necessary), leads to the double-
peaked second" (12,835') and to the third peak (12,54o')- Experts may de-
scend by the Bellavista Saddle and the Festung to the Morteratsch Glacier
(to the Hotel Jlorteratsch 5-6 hrs., guide 60 fr.). — -Piz Zupo {'Verhorgne
Horn', 13,120'), from the Boval hut 6-7. or from the Capanna Marinelli by
the Crasfagiizza Saddle in 4-5 hrs.. toilsome (guide 50 fr.) ; panorama of
surpassing grandeur. — Crast'agiizza (12,705'), a ridge between Pi/. Bernina
and Piz Zupo, rising almost perpendicularly from the glacier, 14 hrs. from
Boval, difficult, but most interesting (first ascended in 1865 ; guide 80 fr.).
The Piz Bernina (13,295'; 8-10 hrs. from the Boval Hut; guide 70 fr.),
the highest peak of the group, first ascended in 1850, is very difficult, and
should be attempted by none but thorough experts. The route ascends,
according to the state of the snow, either direct through the central ice-
fall of the Morteratsch Glacier (the ^Labiirinlh'), and over rock and glacier
to the right; or by the so-called Festung or Forlezza to a basin <)f snow
between Piz Bernina and Crasfagiizza, and thence by the arete from
the S. E. side to the top. The ascent is rather easier from the S.
side (from the Capanna Marinelli. p. 398, over the CrasVaijiizza Saddle,
398 Route 102. PONTRESINA.
C-7 brs.)- A route, accomplished in 1880, shorter but more difficult, is
from the Tschievva Glacier and up the \V. slope. The very difficult ascent
from the N. side, made for the first time in 1878, leads by the Fuorcla
Prievlusa (11,325'), the IHzzo Bianco (13,117'}, and the Bernina-Hchdrte. — Still
mo.e difficult peaks are Piz Roseg (i2,93o'; 9-10 hrs. from the Jlortel Hut;
guide 80 fr.), first ascended in 1865, and Monte di Scerscen (13,015'; guide
150fr.), ascended for the first time in 1877 by Dr. Giissfeldt. Between Monte
di Scerscen and Piz Roseg lies the extremely difficult Porta da Roseg
{Fuorcla Scerscen or Giiss/eldtsattel; 11,573'J, first crossed by Dr. Giissfeldt
in 1872.
Passes. Fkom Postkesina to Sils, several routes. The easiest (but
rather trying ; 9 hrs. , guide IS fr.) crosses the Fuorcla da Fex-Roseg
(10,112'). From the Mortel Hut (p. 395; 4'/2 hrs. from Pontresina) we
ascend to the W. over debris and snow to the (2 hrs.) pass (splendid
view); then a steep and toilsome descent to the Lej Sgrischus, well
stocked with trout, and either into the Fex Valley and to Curtins (p. 387),
or to the right by Manner^ to (2'/2 hrs.) Sils-A/aria (p. 387). — From
Pontresina to Sils over the Fuorcla Ghapiitschin (lu,590'), betw'een the Cha-
putschin and Mongia, or over the Fuorcla G-liischaint (about ILOOO'),
between the Mongia and Piz GlUschaint, for experts only, difficult
(guide 35 fr.).
Over the Sella Pass to the Val Malenco, grand and interesting,
but trying (from the Mortel Hut to Fellaria 8-9, to Chiesa 12-13 hrs.;
guide to Poschiavo or Chiesa, or back to Pontresina by the Cambrena
or Bellavista Saddle, 50 fr.) From the Mortel Hut we ascend behind the
Aguai£liouls rock and over the Roseg Glacier and the crevassed Sella Glacier
to'^ the (3-3'/= hrs.) Sella Pass {Fuorcla Sella, 10,843'), lying to the S.W. of
the huge rock and ice precipices of Piz Roseg (12,U35'). Descent over the
Scerscen Glacier, v^ith splendid views of the S. side of the Bernina group
(Mte. di Scerscen, Piz Bernina, Crast'agiizza, Zupo, and Mte. Nero and
Disgrazia to the right), and across a snow-saddle running out from Piz
Zupo to the left of which, on the rock higher up, is the Capanna MarinelU
(see below), to the neve of the Fellaria Glacier; then down the right side
of the glacier, over rock and debris to the (4-5 hrs. from the pass) Fel-
laria Chalets in the Val Campo Moro (7336' ; poor, occupied in the height
of summer only). Thence down the Val Lanierna to Lanzada and (4 hrs.)
Chiesa in the Val Malenco (p. 409). — Instead of going to Chiesa, the tra-
veller may prefer to complete the Circdit of Piz Bernina and return to
Pontresina. In this case we do not descend to the Fellaria Chalets. On
the upper part of the Scerscen Glacier we keep to the left, again ascend,
and reach (1V2-2 hrs. from the Sella Pass) the Capanna MarinelU, a club-
hut of the I. A. C, situated on the rocks running out from the Piz Zupo
(about 9840'), between the Scerscen and Fellaria glaciers, 3 hrs. above the
Fellaria Chalets. This is the starting-point for the Piz Bernina, Palii,
etc. (p. 397). The direct route hence Back to Pontresina, over the
Fuorcla Bellavista (12,078'), between the Bellavista and Piz Palii, and
down by the Fortezza (p. 390 and the Morteratsch Glacier, 9-10 hrs., is la-
borious (guide 50fr.). — 'To the Bernina Hospice over the Cambrena Pass,
8-9 hrs., fatiguing, but repaying (guide 50 fr.). From the Fellaria Glacier we
cross a saddle of neve on the S. side of Piz Palii, to the Palii Glacier, skirt
the slopes of Piz Palii a.ni Piz Ca/n6c«HO (11,835'), and reach the Cambrena
Pass (11,250'), between Piz Cambrena aai Piz Carale. Descent over the Cam-
brena Glacier to the Lago Kero (p. 406) and the Bernina Hospice. During
the ascent a view extending from Mte. della Disgrazia to the snow-mount-
ains of the Oetzthal is gradually revealed. This route is easier in the
reverse direction, a night being spent at the Bernina houses or the hos-
pice. In this case, too, the place exposed to falls of ice is passed early
in the morning. — Experts may, without difficulty, descend from the
snow-saddle on the side of Piz Palii (p. 397) direct to the Palii Glacier,
avoiding the chasms in the neve by keeping to the left, and then over
turf and rock , past the Sassal Masons , to the Bernina Hospice (7-8 hrs.
from the Capanna Marinelli, 12-13 hrs. from the Mortel Hut; guide 50 fr.).
To Poschiavo a route leads from Fellaria to the E. over the Passo
PONTE. 103. Route. 399
Rovano or Confinale (8590), and tbruu^li the Val One , in B'/z hrs. ; an-
other crosses the Canciano Pass (8360'; comp. p. 409), lying farther S.
(also 31/2 hrs.). To reach the latter pass from the t'ellaria Chalets we
descend a little over old moraines of the Fellaria Glacier, and then
ascend to the left through the Val Posckiavina to the (I1/2 hr.) pass, where
we have a fine survey of the Fellaria and Verona Glaciers, of Mte. della
Bisgra/.ia to the W. and the Canciano Glacier to the S. Descent hv the
Alp dVr (6348') and through the Val di Gole to (2 hrs.) Poschiavo (p." 408).
From Pontresina to Malenco over the Ciiaputschix Pass and the
FnoRCLA Fex-Scerscen, 12-13 hrs. from the Jlortel Hut (guide 50 fr.), a
toilsome route, for experts only. Over theFuorcla ChapU/schin or the FuorcUi
Gliischaint to the Fex Glacier (difficult descent), see p. 398. Instead of
descending to the right to the Fex Valley, we turn to the left to the
snowy saddle of the Fucrcla Fex-Scerscen and then descend the Scerscen
Glacier to the Val Malenco (p. 409).
103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine.
50 M. Diligence from Samaden to Schuls twice daily in 5'/2 hrs. (13 fr.
55, coupe 16 fr. 25c.); from Schuls to Nauders once daily in S'/z b^s. (6fr.
50, coupe 7 fr. 80 c). (Diligence in connection to Landeck, p. 417.) Extra-
Post and pair from Samaden to Schuls 66 fr. 80 c.; carr. with one horse
from Tarasp to Samaden 36, to Pontresina 40 fr.
Below Samaden (p. 391) we enjoy a grand panorama : the valley,
2 M. broad, is enclosed by huge snow-clad mountains, and the
broad glittering bosoms of two glaciers are visible towards the S.
I'/o M. Bevers (5610'; Schmid's Inn), a thriving village, lies
at the foot of the indented Crasta Mora (p. 379). Hr. Krattli , a
botanist, sells dried plants here. Through the Val Bever and Val
Suvretta to St. Moritz, see p. 390. The road passes the (2/4 M.)
Agnas Inn, and leads along the artificial bed of the river Inn to
(13/4 M.) -
4 M. Ponte (5548'; *Albula, R., L., & A. 2-21/2, B. 1 fr.;
*Krone , beyond the bridge) , at the beginning of the Albula Route
(R. 99). On the opposite bank, at the base of Piz Mezaun , lies
Cumpovasto , or Camogasc , at the entrance to the narrow Val Cha-
muera. On 9th March, 1799, the Austrians and French disputed
possession of the bridge for 6 hrs. on the frozen surface of snow
6' deep.
"Hunt Miisella (8632') , on the right bank of the Inn , to the S.E. of
Ponte, is easily ascended in 2V2 hrs. (guide desirable) ; beautiful view. —
Piz Uertsch {Albulahorn, 10,738') is ascended from the Albula Pass in 3 hrs.;
a fatiguing clamber over rock, requiring a steadv head; splendid view
(guide 35 fr.). — *Piz Kesch (11,228'), from Madulein through the Val d'E-
schia in 6 hrs., without difficulty for steady climbers (guide 40 fr.); superb
view (comp. p. 379).
From Ponte to Livigno (6 hrs.) a bridle-path ; guide desirable. We
ascend the Val Chamuera to the (IV2 hr.) chalets of Serlas (6634'), where
the Val Lavirum diverges ; then rapidly through the latter to the (2V2 hrs.)
Fuorcla Lavirum (Posio delV Everone; 9'250') , between (r.) Piz Lavirum
(Piz delV Everone; 10,020'; V4 hr. from the pass; splendid view of the
Ortler) and (1.) Piz Casanella (9616'). Then a steep descent into the Val
Federia. After 1 hr. the path descending from the Casana Pass (p. 400)
on the left joins our route; 1 hr. , Livigno (5935'; H6lel rf- Pens. Alpina,
plain, well spoken of), finely situated in the valley of that name, on the
Spol. Thence to ISormio, see p. 413.
400 Route 103. ZERNETZ. From Samaden
The road follows the left bank of the Inn to (3/4 M.') Madulein
(5515'), with the ruin of Ouardaval on a steep rock to the left
(5873'; ascent 1/4 hr.; auberge ; *View), erected in 1251 by Bishop
Volkard to 'g\iard the valley'. Then (1 1/2 M.) —
6 M. Zutz, Itom. Zuoz (5548'; pop. 427; *Concordia, 1st class,
pens. 7i/2-9'/2 fr. ; Schweizerbund and Weisses Kreuz, plain; Poult,
pens. 31/2 fr.), a summer-resort, with an old tower ('Tuor'J. The
climate becomes milder, and corn-lields appear.
"Piz Griatschouls (9755'; 4 hrs.), not difficult; extensive view. Descent
by the Val Siilsanna to Capella (see below). — Piz Hezaun or Mezzem
(9727', 5 hrs.; guide), easy; very fine view.
Near (1 M.) Scanfs (5413'; Scaletta ; Stern) the Inn is crossed
by a handsome bridge, but the road follows the left bank.
To the right opens the Val Gasana, whence a bridle-path crosses the
Casana Pass (8832'; splendid view) to Livigno (7 hrs. ; without guide). The
pass lies between Pwita Casana (9S70') and Punta Casanella (9G16'), both
easily ascended, the former better from the Val Trupdium, on the N. side.
On the right rises Piz d'Esen (10,270'). Below (I1/2 M.) Capella
the road crosses the Sulsanna. (Through the Val Sulsanna and over
the Scaletta and Sertiy passes to Davos, see p. 353. ~) We next tra-
verse a pine-clad gorge of the Inn. Below Cinuskel (5302'), near
Brail (Kreuz), the Punt Ota, a bridge over a brook emerging from
the ValPuntota, separates the Upper from the Lower Engadine.
At the end of the gorge we have a fine view of the river and the
handsome wooden bridge (4890') which carries the road to the
right bank. Through the opening of the valley we see the Munt
Baselgia and the Piz Nuna (see below). Near (8Y2 M.) Zernetz the
valley expands into a wide and partially cultivated basin, in which
lies the scattered village with its slender spire. To the N. appears
the peculiar furrowed snow-roof of Piz Linard (p. 401).
17 M. Zernetz (4910'; pop. 552; *Bdr, R., L., & A. 4 fr. ), at
the influx of the dark Spbl into the Inn, with a handsome church of
1623 and the ancestral Planta-Wildenherg chateau, has been almost
entirely rebuilt since a fire in 1872.
Munt Baseglia (9780'; 4 hrs. ; guide 5 fr.), Piz d'Arpiglia '9945'; 5 hrs. ;
Gfr.), and Piz Nuna (10,260'; 6 hrs. ; 8fr.) are ascended fn,^ Zernetz (all
rather trying). — Piz Sursura (10,420'; 6-7 hrs.; 12 fr.), through the Val
Surgura and over the glacier of that name, fatiguing.
From Zernetz to MCnsteu (24V2 M- ; diligence daily in 6 hrs.). The
road, attractive even for walkers, gradually ascends on the right bank of
the Spot through the wild wooded defile of La Serra , crossing several
ravines (Val da Barcli, Val Laschadura) and the wooded plateau of Champ
Sech to the (S'/a M.) bridge over the Ova d" Spin (5997'). Beyond the bridge
the old bridle-path (recommended to good walkers) ascends in a straight
direction over the hill of Cliamp LiJng and through the \' i,l Ftur to the
Ufen Inn. while the new road makes a long circuit to the right, skirting
the wooded hill of Cranta'sclta. We cross the (2^/4 M.) Ova del Fuovn
(5610'), in its wild wooded ravine. (A bridle-path to the right leads
hence through the wild Spolthnl to Liviyno in 3'/2 hrs., p. 399.) The road
leads on the left bank of the (Jva del Fuorn, crosses it, and reaches (l'/4 M.)
the "]nn on the Ofenberg (// Fuorn, 5920'). It next passes the mouth of
the Val del Botsch, from which an easy route leads to Tarasp (p. 4o3) in
6 hrs. over the FurcleUa (8786') and through the Val Plafiia. Passing the
Val da Stavelchod and Val Nilglia, we now ascend the marshy Alp Buffalora
to Nauders. LAVIN. 103. Route. 401
to the (5 M.) Ofen Pass (Sii Som, 7070'), with fine view of the Ortlcr.
(Thence across the Bitffrilora Pass to the Fraele Valley and Bormio, p. 413.)
We descend through stone-pines to (3 M.) Cier/s (5460'; 'Alpenrose), in
the Hiinsterthal, or Val Mustaii\ watered by the Rainbach. Then (l'/2 M.)
Fuldera (to the left above which lies Lit , p. 404) , (2 M.) Valcava , and
(IV2 M.) St. Maria (Weisses Kreuz ; Piz Umbrail). From St. Maria to (2 M.)
Miinster and (91/2 M.) Mais, see p. 416. Over the Wormser Joch to Bormio,
see p. 414 ; through the Scarllhal to Schuls, see p. 404.
From Zernetz to Livigno over the Fasso del Diavel (9236') 9-10 hrs., a
fatiguing route, little frequented (guide 20 fr.). We ascend the pathl'iss
Val CUiozza and the wild Val del Diavel to the ice-clad pass, to the W.
of the Piz delV Acqua (10,260'). Descent through the Val del Cantone to
Livigno (p. 399).
FiiOM Zeknetz to Bormio via Bvffalora., see p. 413. A shorter route
(9V2-10 hrs. to Bormio, guide necessary) diverges to the right from the
Miinsterthal road beyond the bridge over the Fuorn, and leads by the La
Schera Alp and S. Giacomo di Fraele to the Scale di Fraele and Bormio.
Below Zernetz the road recrosses the Inn (behind rises the Piz
Quatervals, 10,355'), and enters a narrow, pine-clad gorge, extend-
ing as far as (81/2 M.) —
2OV2 M. Siis, Rom. Susch (4688'; Hot. Rhatia , well spoken
of; Schweizerhof; Hot. Flilela, plain; brewery by the bridge). To
the right rise Pis Mezdi and Piz cTArpiglia. The ruins of a castle
(Fortezza), perhaps of Roman origin, crown a hill rising from the val-
ley to the E. [Fliiela Road to Davos, see p. 351 ; Vereina Pass to
Klosters, see p. 350.) Then over the Sagliains brook to (2 M.) —
221/2 M. Lavin(4690'; *Piz Linard, R., L., & A. 21/0 fr.; Stein-
bock ; Weisses Kreuz'), at the mouth of the Val Lavinuoz. To the
S.W. is the large Sursura Glacier (p. 400).
Excursions. (Guides Jos. Wieser and others.) Sass Aula (2 hrs.) and
Murt^ra (3 hrs.), both easy and interesting. — Through the Val Lavinuoz
to the Tiatscha Glacier, 3 hrs., also attractive. — Piz Kezdi (9593'; guide
10 fr.) is ascended through the Val Zeznina in 5 hrs., the last part rather
steep. Splendid view of the Engadine, the Silvretta, etc. The Val Zeznina
ends, 4 hrs. from Lavin, in the mountain-basin of Macun (8645'), Avith
its small glaciers and six little lakes, environed by Piz d'Arpiglia, Munt
della Baseglia, and Piz Macun. — 'Piz Linard (11,207'; 6-8hrs. ; guide 20fr.),
the highest peak of the Silvretta group, affording a most superb panorama,
is trying and lit for experts only. Bridle-path to the (3 hrs.) Alp Glims,
with a poor refuge-hut; thence to the top 3-4 hrs. (the last V/-> hr. steep and
toilsome). — From Lavin to Klosters over the Vernela Pass or the Ver-
stanklafhor, see p. 350.
The right bank of the Inn , generally steep , affords few sites
for villages, while on the left bank , on broad, sunny heights, lie
Lavin, Guarda, and Ardetz, said to be of Etruscan origin, pictur-
esquely commanded by towers and ruined castles. The Inn flows
through a deep gorge, swelled by many brooks descending from la-
teral valleys.
Beyond Lavin the road leads through a rocky gateway, and near
(2 M.) Giarsun crosses the mouth of the Val Tuoi (p. 419).
A road to the left ascends to (l>/4 M.) Guarda (5413'; "Sonne, good
wine; Osleria Silvretta), prettily situated, which is reached (1 hr.) more
pleasantly l)v the old road gradiiallv ascending from Lavin. The ascents
of Piz Cotichen (9938' ; 4 hrs., guide "lO fr.) and of -Pit Biiin (10,915'; 6 hrs.;
25 fr.), a magnificent point, are recommended. — To Klosters over the Sil-
vretta Pass, see p. 350; to the Montavon over the Vermunt Pass, see p. 419.
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 26
402 Route 103. SCHULS. From Sa7nnden
— From Guarda the old road descends to Boichia and A rdetz in 1 lir.
Walkers bound for Schuls will lind it better to follow the old road by
Fettan (keep up to the left, at a point '/■! hr. beyond Boschia), which bends
into the Val Tasna at the ruined houses of Canova, and shortly afterwards
joins the new road from Ardetz. From Guarda to Fettan 2'/'2 hrs.
The road ascends , skirts a bleak, stony slope high above the
Inn, enters a pleasant larch-wood, and then traverses meadows and
fields to (3 M.) —
271/2 M. Ardetz, Ger. Steinsberg (^2Q' ; pop. 640; Pinasch),
picturesquely situated, and commanded by the ruin of Steinsbery,
with its well-preserved tower.
A road (diligence every afternoon in 1 hr.) commanding fine views
leads from Ardetz, across the Val Tasna (picturesque view at the bridge),
and up the sunny pastures on the N. side of the valley, to (3V4 M.) Fettan
(5404'; Victoria, plain), largely rebuilt since a lire in 1885, charmingly
situated , with beautiful woods and pleasant walks. [A path diverging
to the right Vi M. before the road reaches Fettan leads to the I'aradies,
a pasture with a splendid view, whence a path leads to Fettan in 10 rain.]
Muolla Nalitns and Piz Gliina, see p. 403. — From Fettan to Schuls, 3 M.,
carriage-road (omnibus twice a day from the Hotel Victoria to the springs
at Tarasp). A direct footpath to Tarasp diverges to the right from the
road after the last wide curve, beyond the stream.
The wild Val Tasna, with its woods and pastures, ascends, between (1.)
Piz Cotschen (9938') and (r.) Piz Minschun (10,076') for 3 hrs., and then
divides into (1.) the Val (PUrezzas and (r.) the Val Urschai. From the latter
a difficult path crosses the ice-clad Futschbl Pass (9078'), with fine views
of the huge Fluchthorn (11,142'), to the Tyrolese Jamthal, to the Jamthal
Club Hut, and to (8-9 hrs.) GallUr in the Patznaun (p. 418).
Beyond Ardetz the road traverses stony slopes, and is hewn in
the rock at places. From a bend we obtain a most picturesque view
of Schloss Tarasp; to the right, on the S. bank of the Inn, rise Piz
Plafna, Piz Pisoc, Lischanna, and Ayutz. The road then describes a
wide curve, enters the deep Val Tasna (see above), and crosses it by
a stone bridge. The road leads high above the deep wooded gorge
of the Inn. To the right a fine view of the sombre, pine -clad
Val Plafna, from whicli the Plafna emerges , with the Piz Plafna
Dadaint (p. 404) in the background. In the foreground, on the
right bank of the Inn, is Schloss Tarasp. The road then descends
to the Inn, passes at the back ot Kurhaus Tarasp (post-station), and
ascends to (6'/2 M.) —
34 m. Schuls. — *H6t. Belvedeke, with the dependance Pension
Belvedere and a line garden in Unter-Schuls, pens. 8-13 fr. ; 'Post, R., L.,
& A. 4, D. 4, S. 2V2 fr.; "^ Hot. -Pens. Schuls; "Hot. Konz 'Zum Piz Chiam-
paisch\ R. 2, D. 2 fr. 80, S. 2 fr. 20 c, B. 1, board 5 fr. ; Krone, plain; all
these at Ober-Schuls ; at Unter-Schuls, Helvetia, moderate. — The inn-
keepers at Schuls provide conveyances gratis to take visitors to the Baths
of 'Tarasp every half-hour.
Schuls (3970'; pop. 946), Kom. Scuol, the capital of the Lower
Engadine, picturesquely situated opposite a noble range of moun-
tains extending from Piz Lat to Piz Plafna, consists of Upper and
Lower Schuls, between which the high-road runs. On this road is
the Badthalle Schuls , with chalybeate and ordinary baths. In the
vicinity are several chalybeate springs. The most important are the
Wyquelle, with an interesting hill of iron-ore, 10 min. to the N, of
to Nauders. TARASP. IU3. Route. 403
tlio Hotel Konz, and the carbonic Sotsass-Quelle, a little to the E.
of Schuls, on the way to Sent (see helow). To the right of the old
road to Fettan, 20 min. to the W. of the Hotel Konz, are several
small 'mofettes' or gaseous cavities.
On the high-road, 1 M. to the W. of Schuls are the Baths of Ta-
rasp (3890'), on the left bank of the Inn (_*Kurhaus, II., L., & A.
from 5, B. I1/2, D. 5, S. 2V2! board 71/9, visitors' tax 14 fr. ; cui-
sine complained of). The Lucius and Emerlta springs . both con-
taining salt and carbonate of soda, are those chiefly used for drink-
ing. The baths are supplied with chalybeate water from the Carola-
quelle. Post and telegraph offices in the house. Physicians, Dr.
Killias and Dr. Pernisch. A covered wooden bridge leads from the
Kurhaus to the springs on the right bank {Trinhhalle and small
bazaar), and a good road ascends thence in zigzags to the ('/-j M.)
village of Vulpera (4183'), prettily situated on sunny pastures, and
also frequented by patient* {*Pens. Bellevue , with de'pcndance,
9 fr.; *TeU & Alpenrose 71/2-81/2 fr. ; *Conradin, 71/2 fr. ; *Wald-
haus, 8-10 fr.). — The direct path from Schuls to ('/^ hr.) Vulpera
and Tarasp diverges to the left from the road at the W. end of
Schuls, crosses the Inn above the junction of the Clemgia and then
divides, the right branch skirting the Inn by the Kur-Promenade to
(I/2 hr.) Tarasp, the left branch ascending through wood to (iy'2 hr.)
Vulpera.
Environs. The handsome Castle of Tarasp (4912'), 1 hr. from Vul-
pera, now dilapidated, was the residence of the Austrian governor.s down
to 1803. A good road leads round its N. base to the hamlets of Florins
(Restaurant), and (1 hr.) Fontatta (4596'; rfmts. at the former Hotel Tarasp,
now a nunnery ; Inn, with balcony , behind the monastery) at the S.^V.
base, with a" Capuchin monastery and a small lake. Pleasant walk
thence to the (IV2 hr.) -Alp Laisch (5998'; milk), at the entrance to the
picturesque Val Plafna. — Beautiful view from the -Kreuzberg, especially
by evening light (from Fontana past the castle of Tarasp and via
Spersils, '/< hr. ; from Vulpera direct, 1 hr.). — Pretty walk from Vulpera
to the sequestered farm of (35 min.) Avroiia (4760'), situated above the deep
Clemgia gorge and at the base of the Piz Pisoc, and to the small dark-green
Schwarze See, 20 min. higher, where we obtain a fine view of Piz Linard.
Road from Schuls to (4V2 M.) Fettan, see p. 402 ; a footpath leads past
the Wyquelle. and along the edge of the wood in IV4 hr. — On the hill
to the N.E. lies (2V2 M.) Sent (4700*; Rhatia; diligence from Schuls twice
daily in summer, 1 fr.), a large village with handsome houses. On a rock
to the right, before we reach the village, are the picturesque ruins of the
Romanesque church of St. Peter, commanding a fine view. A carriage-road
descends hence to (4i/j BI.) Crusch (p. 404), opposite the entrance of the Val
d'Uina. — A pleasant excursion leads through the Val d'Uina to (9 hrs.)
^fals. A picturesque footpath follows the right bank of the Inn, passing
Pradella to (4V2 M.) Sur En (3650'; Biir, with sign painted by Paul Meyer-
heim), situated at the mouth of the valley, opposite Crusch (see above).
Driving is also practicable to this point. A tolerable path leads hence
through the richly-wooded valley, passing several pretty waterfalls and
through a romantic rocky gorge' to the chalets of (41/2 M.) Ausser-Uina
(4980') and (3 M.) Inner- Uina. An attractive pass (guide unnecessary for
the expert) leads hence over the (41/2 M.) Sursass (T73.5') and through the
pleasant Val SMinga to (9 M.) ^fals, see p. 416.
Ascents (guides, Joh. Baiich, Jak. Bischoff, Jak. and Ed. Truog, and
Jak. Wida[)- To the N. of Schuls rises the grassy Muotta Naluns (7030':
26*
404 Route lO.L SCARL. From Sammlen
};uidc, ii<it indispensable, 6-8 fr.), ascended in 3 hrs. (or from Fettan in I'/z hv.).
View limited; better from the Piz Gluna (7874'J, a spur of the AJiiua/m?!,
farther W. (from the Muotta Naluns in 1 hr., from Fettan by the Alp Laref,
2V2-3 hrs.; guide 10 fr.)- — More extensive panorama from Piz Champatsch
(9580'-, 5 hrs. from Schuls ; guide 12 fr.), by the Alp Champatsch, and
thence round the summit, ascending finally on the E. side. The direct as-
cent from the S. is steep, stony, and tiring.
■Piz Lischanna (10,180' -, 5-6 hrs.; guide 15 fr.) is perhaps the finest point
of view near Schuls. From the Scarlthal road (see below), at the second bend,
we diverge to the left by a steep forest-path to St. Jon, with the ruins of
a house. Here we turn to the left and skirt the base of the Piz St. Jon,
then ascend through pastures and wood in the Val Lischanna, to (3 hrs.)
a Refuge-hut (about 6560'; very poor quarters) on the Scha/alp. The path
then ascends a stony slope in long zigzags, passing the Lischanna Glacier
on the right, above us, and skirting steep rocks at places, to the (3 hrs.) iron
vane on the top. The view is superb: immediately in the foreground rise the
bare and riven peaks of the Piz St. Jon, Ayutz, and Pisoc ; far below lies the
green Engadine from Lavin to Martinsbruck ; to the S. are the Ortler, the
Valtellina Alps, and the Bernina; in the distance, to the W., the Bernese
Alps, the Todi, and nearer us Piz Linard and Piz Buin ; to the N. the Augsten-
berg, Fluchthorn, and the distant Wetter^eingebirge with the Zugspitze;
to the E. the Oetzthal Mts. with the Wildspitze and Weisskugel, and farther
distant the fantastic Dolomites. — Adepts (with guide, 25-30 fr.) descend the
Lischanna Glacier to the Val Seesvenna and Scarl (13 hrs.; see below).
"Piz Pisoc (10,427'; 7 hrs.; guide 25 fr.), Piz Plafna Dadaint (10,413';
8 hrs. ; 30 fr.), and Piz Seesvenna (10,565'; 8 hrs.; 25 fr.; night spent at Scarl),
all difficult, are for experts only. Piz St. Jon (9980'; 8 hrs. ; 15 fr.), Piz Cot-
schen (p. 401) , Piz Minschun (10,076'; from Fettan 5 hrs. ; 10 fr.), and Piz
Foraz (10,150'; 7 hrs., 15 fr.) are less difficult.
From Schuls to St. Maria in the Munsteethal, through the Scarl-
Thal, 8 hrs., interesting (guide 25 fr., unnecessary). We ascend the road
to the S. from the Inn bridge, soon enter a larch-wood, and reach the pla-
teau on which St. Jon (see above) lies farther to the left. Opposite, high up
on the left side of the deep gorge of the Clemgia, lies the farm of Avrona
(p. 403). The road, bad at places, gradually descends through wood into
the valley, enclosed by the huge furrowed slopes of Piz Pisoc on the right
and Piz St. Jon and Piz Madlain on the left , and frequently crosses the
Clemgia, the inundations of which are often very destructive. After 2 hrs.
the sequestered Val Minger diverges to the right, with Piz Foraz (see above)
in the background. To the left is the Val del Poch. Passing a deserted
foundry, we next reach (1 hr.) Scarl (5948'; Adler, high charges; Edelweiss)
a hamlet at the mouth of the Val Seesvenna, whence Piz Cornet (^951'), Piz Cri-
stannes (10,237'), and Piz Seesvenna (see above) may be ascended. To the left,
V2 hr. above Scarl, a bridle-path leads over the Crvschetla Pass {Scarljochl,
7600'), and through the pretty Val Avigna, in 3 hrs. to Taufers (p. 416). The
road ends here. The bridle-path crosses the valley, which expands here
(beautiful stone-pines); it passes the chalets of A.^tras Dadora (i.e. outer),
and Dadaint (i.e. inner), and, bearing to the left, leads between (r.) Piz
d''Astras (9803') and (1.) Piz Mnrtera (9836') to the Costainas Pass (7385'),
2 hrs. from Scarl. It then descends to the extensive dairy of Champatsch
(7034'), in the parish of Valcava, rounds the rock of La Durezza, and leads
through wood (avoid steep path to Cierfs, descending to the right) to Lil
(6293'), a sunny and sheltered hamlet; then by a narrow road to Lilssai,
and across the Rambach to Furom, a solitary house on the road halfway be-
tween Fuldera and Valcava. Thence to St. Maria (2 hrs. from the Co-
stainas Pass), see p. 401.
Below Schuls we pass Pradella, on tlie right bank of the Inn.
The road follows the left bank. On the hill to the left is the prettily
situated village o{ Sent (p. 403). Opposite (31/2 M.) Crwsc/i (Kreuz)
is Sur En, at the mouth of the Val cfVina (p. 403). Before reaching
to Naudem. REMLfS. 103. lionle. 405
(2 M.) Remus, Rom. Ramuosch (4022'), which, witli the ruined
castle of Tschanuff, lies above us on the left, the road crosses the
Wraunka-Tobel, a deep ravine of the Val Sinestra.
Ascent of Piz Arina (9452'; 4 1ir.s.; with guide) from Remiis, rather
tiring, but well worth notice. — An easy and attractive route leads through
the Val Sineslra, with chalybeate springs containing arsenic, and over the
Fimber Pass (8694') to Jschgl in the Patznaun (81/2 hrs.r guide 20 fr.). The
bridle-path ascends on the left bank of the Sinestra by Manas, past the
mouth of the Val Laver on the left and the farm of Suort , to the (2 hrs.)
chalets of Oriosch (5948') , at the foot of the huge Slammerspitze (10,683' ;
highest peak first ascended in 1884 by Prof. Schulz of Leipzig). On the
right opens the Val Tiatscha, with the Muttler (10,827') in the background.
Then through the Val Choglias to the alp of that name, and to the left
to the (2V2 hrs.) pass, where we have a striking survey of the Fluchthorn.
descent through the Fimberthal to (4 hrs.) Ischgl iu the Patznaun (p. 418).
The valley contracts; to the left is the ruin oi Serviezel. In the
narrow Val d'Assa on the right (fine waterfall at the entrance) is the
(2 hrs.) intermittent Fontana Chistaina, which flows once in 3 hrs.
only. Near it is an interesting stalactite cavern. A fine view of the
loftily situated Sddeins is soon revealed ; above it to the left rise
the Muttler (10,827') and the indented Stammer spitze (see above);
to the right Piz Lat (9190').
The next village (41/4 M.) is Strada. Near (II/4 M.) Martins-
bruck (3343'; '^Hot. JDemotJi), the scenery becomes grander. The
Inn Bridge is the boundary between Switzerland and the Tyrol
(Austrian custom-house). On the left are the ruins of another castle
named Serviezel. (Path on the left bank of the Inn via the Noveller-
hof in 11/2 tr- to Old Finstermiinz, see p. 417, and on to Pfunds;
guide advisable for novices.) The new road to Nauders , on the
Tyrolese side , winds up the wooded hill which separates the Inn
Valley from that of the Stille Bach. (The old road, preferable and
shorter, ascends to the right by the custom-house, past the small
houses.) At the top of the hill we enjoy an admirable retrospective
view of the Engadine; and opposite us, to the N., rises Piz Mondin
(10,378'). Lastly a slight descent to (5'/2 M.) —
50 M. Nauders (4468'), see p. 417.
104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano and
through the Valtellina to Colico.
Comj). Majn, pp. 384, 392.
76 M. Diligence in summer from Samaden to (23' 2 M.) Poschiavo twice
daily in S'/z brs. (9 fr. 65, coupe 11 fr. 60 c.) ; thence to (17' j- M) Tirano in
13/< hr. (2 fr. 65, coupe 3 fr. 55 c); from Tirano to (16 31.) Sondrio in 2^/4
hrs. Railway from Sondrio to (26',2 M.) Colico in 1 hr. 35 rain. (4 fr. 65,
3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). — Extra-Post and pair from Samaden to Poschiavo
60 fr.; Cakiiiage with one horse from Pontresina to Poschiavo 35, with two
horses 70, to Tirano 50 and 90 fr.; one-horse carriage from Poschiavo to
Tirano, 12, with two horses 22 frs., to Sondrio 30 and 45, to Bormio 40
and 65, to Pontresina 30 and 50, to St. Moritz 40 and 60 fr. This route
will even repay walkers.
The Bernina Pass, the only carriage-road over the Bernina chain
(p. 393), is the chief route between the Engadine and the Valtellina, and
406 Rouk 104. BERNINA HOSPICE. From Snmaden
is frequented even in winter. — The journey through the Valtellina has
been much facilitated by the new railway from Sondrio to Colico, which
also alTords an excellent route to the North Italian lakes from the Enga-
dine, not, however, to be preferred to the Brejjaglia (p. 410).
From Samaden to (3'/4 M.) Pontresina, see p. 392. Near a
saw-mill, 1/2 M. from the last houses of Upper Pontresina, is the
fine Languard Fall, I72 M. beyond which the road to the Mor-
teratsch Olacier (p. 393) diverges to the right. The road begins
to ascend. To the right a splendid *View of the Morteratsch Glacier,
with its huge moraine, overshadowed by the dazzling Piz Palii, Bella-
vista, Zupo, Argient, Crast'agiJzza, the Piz Bernina, Morteratsch,
and Tschierva. (From one of the windings of the road, by a horse-
trough, a path diverges to the Bernina Falls and the Morteratscli
Glacier.) About 5 M. from Pontresina are the solitary BernmafloMsc.s
(6723'; *Inn), at the entrance to the Val del Fain.
The Val del Fain, or Heiithal, 5 M. long, is interesting to botanist.s
(Edelweiss grows on the slopes at the head of the valley). A bridle-path
(practicable for light vehicles for 2V2 M. ; guide needless) ascends the valley,
crosses the Alp La Stretla and the Passo Fieno (8143'), between the Piz
Slretta (10,197') and the Piz dels Lejs (10,013'), and descends into the SpOl
Valley to (6 hrs.) Livigno (p. 399). — Ascent of Piz Languard by La Pisc/ia,
see p. 396.
Beyond the Bernina houses (8/4 M.) the old bridle-path diverges
to the right, and leads on the left side of the brook over the Alp
Bregaglia to the pass. The road crosses the brook and ascends grad-
ually on the E. side of the valley, passing the mouth of the Val
Minor. (To the left rise Piz Alv and Piz Lagalb, to the right the
stony slopes of the Diavolezza, p. 396.) The zone of trees is now
quitted. The road passes the small Lago Minore (Rom. Lej Pitscheri)
and Lago Nero (Rom. Lej Nair) and the light green Lago Bianco
(Rom. Lej Alv; 7316'). The narrow barrier between the Lago Nero
and the Lago Bianco forms the watershed between the Black Sea and
the Adriatic, the waters of the former descending to the Inn, and
those of the latter to the Adda. To the right lies the Cambrena
Glacier, commanded by Piz Cambrena (11,836'), and Piz Carale
(11,247'); to the left Sassai Masone (9970'), Before us rises Piz
Campascio (see below); to the left of it is the conical Pizzo di Tea,
to the right Pizzo di Sena.
The road turns to the left by the Lago Nero, crosses a brook de-
scending from Piz Lagalb, and reaches (4'/4 M. from the Bernina
houses) the —
121/2 M. Bernina Hospice (7575'; Hotel, R., L., & A. 21/2,
D. 4-41/2 fr.), finely situated above the Lago Bianco and opposite
the Cambrena Glacier. At the back of the hospice is the little Lago
della Crocetta. The pavilion in front affords a fine view.
Excursions. (Guides and horses at the hospice.) Piz Campascio (853,5' ;
guide 4 fr.), to the S. of the hospice, rising perpendicularly on the E. side,
ascended by a good path in V/2 hr., commands a very striking view. — Piz
Lagalb (9718'), to the N. (see above), also aiTords a fine view (2 hrs. ■, 4 fr.).
From the hospice to the Alp GkOm or the Sassai. Masone (1'/4-1'/2) there
and back 3-4 hrs. ; guide 4 fr., unnecessary; donkey or mule 7 fr.), very
to Tirana. BERNINA PASS. 104. Route. 407
interesting. A few paces to the S. of the hospice the bridle-path diverges
from the road to the right, and skirts the K. bank of the Lago Bianco. It
crosses (15 min.) the brook issuing from tlie S. end of the lake, and follows
the right slope of the valley, skirting the little Lago della Scala. A finger-
post (15 min.) indicates the path to the right to the Sassal Masone (see
below). We go straight on; then, where the path divides, to the left, at the
same level; and ('/a hr.) reach the -Alp Griim (IIS'2' ; Restaurant), where
the supeib '- Palil Glacier, separated from us by a narrow valley only, and
the Poschiavo Valley far below, with its lake and the villages of Le Prese,
Prada, and S. Antonio, are suddenly revealed. To the S.E. in the dis-
tance rise the Adamello and Presanella. — The *Sassal Masone Alp (7800';
refreshments), two round huts at the foot of the i>assal Ma'ione (9970'),
reached in 1/2 hr. by a good path from the above finger-post, commands a
grand view of the Palii Glacier, Pizzo di Verona, Piz Palii, the Poschiavo
Valley, and the Val Viola Mts.
Fkom the Alp Grum to Poschiavo (2^4 hrs.). The path descends steeply
to the right, and afterwards widens into a stony cart-track; ^ihr., Alp la
Dotia; 1/4 lir., hamlet of Cavaglia (5580'), in a wider part of the valley. We
cross ('/4 br.) the Cavagliasco, descending from the Palii Glacier through
a wild rocky gorge; then skirt the slope to the right by a very rough and
stony path (often the bed of a torrent), and descend rapidly to (13/i hr.)
Poschiavo (p. 408). Fine view of the valley and the opposite heights, on
which runs the Bernina road. Travellers intending to visit the Alp Griim
from Poschiavo (advisable only in dry weather) should have the beginning
of the route pointed out (boy from the hotel for a small fee).
Over the Cambrena Pass to the Fellaria Chalets, grand but toilsome,
see p. 398.
A few paces to the E. of the hospice is the top of the Bernina
Pass (7658'). Beyond it the road passes through two galleries and
descends rapidly in windings (avoidable by short-cuts) , past La
Motta (6510'), to (4 M.) —
I6V2 M. La Rosa (6162'; Inn, R., L., & A. 21/2. B. 1 fr.).
To the N. of La Motta opens the Val Lag one. , containing strata of
gvpsum and alabaster, through which a narrow mad leads to the Forcola
di Livigno (7638') and (6 hrs.) Livigno (p. 399).
Through the Val Viola to Bormio (p. 413) 10 hrs., interesting; guide
unnecessary in fine weather (from Pontresina to Bormio 45 fr.). The bridle-
path diverges from the Bernina road to the left at Sfazzu (p. 408) and
ascends the Val di Campo by the chalets oi Salha, La Tonta, and Plan Sena
(6500') to (2 hrs.) Longacqiia^ the highest chalet or 'nialga\ To the N. lies the
Val Mera, with the beautiful Corno di Campo (10,8CW), whence a fatiguing route
crosses the Colle di Campo (8776') to Livigno. From this point through
the Val Viola Poschiavina to the (!'/.> hr.) Val Viola Pass (8070') the path
is ill-defined at places (guide desirable for the inexperienced; keep to the
left before the summit), leading at first through woods of stone-pines, in
which several pretty little blue lakes lie to the right. Fine retrospective
view of the Bernina Mts.; to the S. the precipices of the Cima Saoseo.
Beyond the pass the path, again distinct, gradually descends to ('/4 hr.) the
first chalet in the Val Viola Bormina, on the little Val Viola Lalce (7480').
It now leads high along the N. slope of the vallev (beautiful views of the
Val di Dosdi to the right, with the Pizzo di Dos'd^ (10,760') and the Cima
Lago Spalmo (10,820'), and then descends rapidly through wood to the
(l'/2 hr.) Ponte Minestra (6490'; below which is a waterfall) and the ('/i hr.)
hamlet of Campo. Then across pastures and through wood at places, past
several houses and barns, to (l'/2 hr.) <S. Carlo (5185') , a village with a
church. On the right rise the Cima di Piatzi (11,280'), with the Piazzi
Olacier and the Corno di S. Colombano (9915'). Descent to the Val di
Dentro and Semogo (route to Livigno by Foscayno , see p. 414), and by
Jsolaccia (Osteria by the bridge) and Pedenosso to (2 hrs.) Premadio. We
now cross the Adda, and reach Bormio in 1/2 1"'. ^y '1»"2 ''"»d to the right,
or the New Baths (p. 414) in 1/4 It- !>>' that to the left.
408 Route 104. POSCHIAVO. From Smmvieri
Where the road crosses to the E. slope of the mountain we ob-
tain a passing view of tlie upper part of the narrow Poschiavino Val-
ley, down to Poschiavo. Below (Y2 h^^-) Sfazzu (where a direct, but
had and stony foot-path from l^aRosa debouches) we cross the brook
descending from the Vnl di Campo, pass Pisciadello (4910') on the
right, below which another path to the Val Viola diverges to the
left, and descend in a wide curve on the E. side of the valley. The
road reaches the bottom of the valley at (41/2 M.) S. Carlo (3592'),
where it passes through a gateway. On the hill to the right ap-
pears a glacier descending from Pizzo di Verona (11,358'").
24 M. Poschiavo, Ger. Puschlav (3317'; pop. 2953; Hot.
Albricci, in the principal piazza, R., L., & A. 3^2 fr. ; Grace), a
busy little town, with several factories and handsome houses. The
language is Italian, and one-third of the inhabitants are Protestant.
The Roman Catholic Church dates from 1494, but the tower is much
older; goodwood-carving in the interior. The charnel-house behind
the church contains numerous skulls and bones (comp. p. 72). The
town-hall bears the arms of the town. The Protestant Church is
modern.
"^'Sassalbo (9377'; 5-6 hrs.; with guide), tiring, but very attractive. From
Poschiavo we ascend to the E. to the (3 hrs.) Alp Sassicjlione (6312';
spend night), and mount by the Forcola di Sassiglione (8330'} on the S.
side to the C-V'J brs.) summit. Grand panorama : W. the Bernina, E. the
Ortler, S.E. the Adamcllo. — To the Val Malenco over the Canciano or
the Confinale Pass, see p. 399.
Omnibus from Poschiavo to (3 M.) Le Prese 4 times daily (6 and
10 a. m., 2 and 6.30 p. m.) in I72 ^r. (1 fr. ; carr. with one horse 4,
two horses 7 fr.). The road crosses the Poschiavino , traverses a
pleasant level valley, and passes S. Antonio.
27 M. Le Prese (3156'; *Bath House, R., L., & A. 51/2, pens.
9-12 fr.), a watering-place at the N.W. end of the Lago di Poschiavo,
a basin of the Poschiavino , well stocked with trout, is suitable for
some stay. The alkaline and sulphureous spring (48° Fahr. ; baths
heated by steam, 1 fr. 20 c.) rises 100 paces from the bath-house.
The road skirts the W. bank of the lake, passing old fortifications,
destroyed in 1814. At the S. end is the (2 M.) village of Meschlno,
with a beautiful view of the lake with the snow-mountains in the
background. We now descend a narrow, rocky gorge, accompanied
hy a series of waterfalls all the way to Madonna di Tirano (see
below), and reach (30V2 M.) Brusio, Ger. Briis (2477'), the last
large Swiss village (pop. 1160; '/a Prot.), with a Rom. Cath. and a
Prot. church, the latter built at the beginning of the 17th century.
The road descends through walnut and chestnut -plantations
(pretty fall of the Sajento on the right) to Campascio and —
311/2 M. Campo Cologuo (1800'; post-stat.), where vineyards
begin. The Italian custom-house is near the old fort Piatta Mala.
34 M. Madonna di Tirano (*Alb€ryo S. Michele, R. 3, B. 1 fr.)
].-; a small village built around an imposing pilgrimage-church of the
to Colico. ■ TIRANO. 104. Route. 409
16th century. We here reach the Valtellina, Ger. VelUin, the broad
valley of the Adda, which belonged to the Grisons dov?n to 1797.
The floor of the valley is frequently devastated by inundations. The
fertile slopes yield excellent red wine (p. 345). The road unites
here with the Stelvio route (p. 412), on which lies —
35 M. Tirano (1475'; pop. 6000; *Albergo d' Italia, with the
post-office ; *Posta or Angela ; Hot. Stelvio, by the lower bridge), a
small town with old mansions of the Visconti, Pallavicini, and Sails
families. In the background, to the E., rises Monte Mortirolo.
The road to Colico leads back to Madonna di Tirano, and crosses
the Poschiavino. At Tresenda, 6 M. below Madonna di Tirano, a
bridge crosses the Adda to the road which leads by the Passo d' Apn-
ea (4040') to Edolo and Brescia (see Baedeker's N. Italy; a foot-
path to the Passo d'Aprica, 1/.2 l^r. shorter, leads to the left from
Madonna, via the hamlet of Stazionci). The old watch-tower of Teglio
on the hill to the right gives its name to the valley (Val Teglinn).
17 M. Sondrio (1140'; pop. 6900; *Posta, K., L., & A. 41/2,
D. 4 fr. ; Maddalena), on the wild Malero, the capital of the Val-
tellina, grows excellent wine (Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, Mon-
tagna). The brook, which has frequently endangered the town, now
flows through a broad artiflcal channel. A long building on the
outskirts of the town, once a nunnery, is now private property.
The old castle of the governors is used as a barrack.
Tlid 'Corno Stella (8665'; very attractive and not difficult) may be
ascended in 7-8 lirs. from Sondrio via the Val del Livrio.
The Val Malenco, to the N. of Sondrio, is well worth exploring. A
good new carriage road on the right bank of the Malero leads by Torre to
(lOM.) CAi«sa (3297'; 'Hut. Olivo), the principal village in the valley, finely
situated. (Guides, Mich, and Silvio Schenatti, G. Olivo.) Interesting asbestos-
pits in the neighbourhood. — From Chiesa over the J/i/reMo Pass (8390') to the
Maloja (8 hrs.J, see p. 385; over the Tremoggia or the Scerscen Pass to Sils
(9-10 hrs.), seep.387 ; o\eT the Sella Pass, the Bellavisia Saddle, or the Cam-
hrena Pass to Pontresina (16-17 hrs.), see p. 398 ; over the Canciano or Confnale
Pass to Poscldavo (8-9 hrs.), see p. 399. The Fellaria Clialets (p. 398) may be
reached from Chiesa in 4'/'j hrs., through the Val Lanlerna (guide ad-
visable, as there is no path ; from Fellaria to the Capanna Marinelli 3 hrs.).
Pleasant walks from Chiesa: to the Palii Lake (6320'), beautifully situated;
by Lanzada to the waterfall at the head of the Val Lantenia; to the Pirlo
Lakes (6890'), etc. — Monte della Disgrazia (12,050'), 10-12 hrs. from Chiesa,
difficult. We ascend by the (3'/-.' hrs.) Alp di Pali to the (3V2 hrs.) Ca-
panna della Disgrazia of the 1. A. C. on the Coma Rossa Pass (9186';
spend night); then over glacier and rock to the (3'/4-4 hrs.) summit, a most
superb point of view. The ascent may also be made from the Alp Plan di
Pieira Rossa in the Val di Snsso Bissolo, a side-valley diverging from the
Val Masino (p. 410) ; or from the Alp di Pioda in the Valle di Jlello (p. 410).
The Kailway Station lies about 1/2 M. to the S. of the town
(omnibus '/2 fr.). As the train leaves it we have a passing glimpse
into the Val Malenco (see above). "We cross the Malero. To the
right, on a rocky height and supported by galleries, rises the church
of Sassella. 31/2 M. Castione; the village lies on the slope to the
right. 7 M. S. Pietro-Berbenno ; 11 M. Ardenno- Masino, at the
mouth of the Val Masino.
410 Route 105. VAL BREGAGLIA.
Val Masino. The road leada to Masino, Pioda, and (7 M.) iS. Martina
(3724') , where the valley divides : to the right the Valle di Mello (route
over the Forcella di S. Marlino or the Forno Pass to the Val Bregaglia, see
pp. 411, 385), to the left the Valle dei Rngni. lu the latter lie the (I'A M.)
Bagni del Masino, with a good bath-house (4330'J. This valley, called Val
Pofcelizza above this point, turns to the N.; at its head towers the abrupt
Badile group. The E. peak (Pit Trubinasca, 9570') and the W. peak {Piz
Cengalo, 11,053') present no difficulty to mountaineers with good guides;
but the central Piz Badile (10,825') is very difficult. — Over the Forcella di
Bondo to the Val Bondasca (trying, for experts only), see p. 411, 412.
The train crosses the Adda, the right bank of which is here
precipitous; the high-road runs high above. To the right, in the
Val Masino, appears the Mte. delta Disgrazia (p. 409). 14 M. Ta-
lamona. 16 M. Morbegno (853'; Ancora), noted for its silk-culture,
is situated at the mouth of the Val del Bitto, through which a bridle-
path leads over the Passo di S. Marco (5996') to Piazza S. Martina
in the Val Brembana iLiiA to Bergamo. 18 M Cosio-Traona. Beyond
(21 M.) Delebio, on the Lesina (p. 443), which descends from Mte.
Legnone, the railway unites with the line from Chiavenna to Colico
(p. 374). On a crag to the right is the ruin of Fuentes.
251/2 M. Colico, see p. 375.
105. From the Maloja to Chiavenna. Val Bregaglia.
Comp. Map, p. 372.
20 M. Diligence from Samaden to (35 M.) Chiavenna over the Maloja,
twice daily in 6V4 hrs. (from St. Jloritz 51/2, Silvaplana 5, Maloja Kursaal
4 hrs.); fares 13 fr. 65 c, coupe or banquette 16 fr. 40 c. — Carriagk
with one horse from St. Moritz 45, with two horses 75-90 fr. — Extra -
Post with two horses from Samaden 69 fr. 20 c. — Railway from Chia-
venna to Colico, see p. 374.
The Maloja (5960'; p. 384), the lowest of the Alpine passes,
is remarkable for the gentle slope leading to it from the Engadiiie
and the sudden descent on the Italian side. Nowhere else is tlie
transition from the scanty vegetation of the upper Alps to tlie
luxuriant flora of Italy so abrupt. The pass was known to the Ro-
mans (comp. p. 411), but the present road was made in 1835-39.
The latter descends the precipitous slope of Maloja (about 820') in
12 curves, which may, however, be avoided by walkers. [From tlie
sixth curve a footpatli leads off to the left to the Orlegna Water-
fall, see p. 385.] Tlie pines and other coniferous trees immediately
below the summit of the pass are very luxuriant.
The *VaI Bregaglia (perhaps ^Pragallia, 'in front of Cisalpine
Gaul), Ger. Bergeller Thai, which the road next descends, is watered
by the Mera or Maira. For the first two-thirds of its extent it
belongs to Switzerland. The inhabitants, however, speak Italian,
though some of the communities are exclusively Protestant. — We
pass the ruins of the church oiS. Gaudenzio (on the right), where we
have our last retrospect of the chateau of Count Renesse on the .Maloja.
4I/.2 M. Casaccia, Rom. Casdlsch (4790'; *H6t.-Pens. Slampa.
the post-station), the highest village in the Val Bregaglia, is com-
STAMPA. lOf). Route. 41 1
maiuled by the ruin of Turratsch. Bridle-path to Stalla over the
Septimer, p. 382. — To the left we see the Cascata dell' Albigna
(see below) and other pretty waterfalls (some on tlie right).
The road now descends in windings (cut off by tlie old road,
being the paved Roman road, following the telegraph-line) to Lohhia
and Asarina (4436'). Then past the mouth of theVal Albigna and
the Grotta di Albigna (a beer-cellar) we reach —
8 M. Vicosoprano, Rom. Vespran (3566'; pop. 346; Pension-
Restaurant Prevosti ; Cafe-Restaurant Maurizio), the capital of the
Val Bregaglia, with a handsome church, at the influx oi Xh.Q Albigna
Into the Mera. Curious rock-formations in the vicinity.
The Val Albigna deserves a visit. About ^'4 M. above Vicosoprano we
diverge to the right from the road, and ascend through wood to the (3 hrs.)
Cascata delV Albigna, a fine fall of the Albigna in a wild ravine, near the
foot of the Albigna Glacier. The adjoining chalet (6773') is not always
occupied. From this point over the Cacciabella Pass to Bondo, and over the
Casnile Pass to the Maloja, see p. 385. — A trying route, to the S., crosses
the Albigna Glacier and the Forcella di S. Martino (Passo di Zocca, 9000'),
between the Cima di Castello (11,155': ascended from the pass without
difliculty in 2 hrs.) and the Mle. di Zocca (10,390, to the Val di Mello and
S. Martino (p. 410).
The Pizzo della Duana (10,280'; 6-7 hrs. ; guide, the forester Oiov.
iSlampa at Stampa, etc.), a magnificent point of view, is not difficult for
adepts. The route leads from Vicosoprano to the N., by the Alp Zocchetta
and Pianld, to the small Logo di Val Campo, and ascends the arete from
the E. side to the top. We may descend by the Alp Pianaccio to Soglio.
The next villages are Borgonuovo , Rom. Bornljv (3470') and
Stampa {*Albergo Piz Duan, moderate). Picturesquely situated on
the hill to the right lies Coltura , with the modern red chateau of
Baron Castelmur and the white church of S. Pietro. The tower of
Castelmur and the church of Promontogno are visible in front of us.
AValnut trees and chestnuts now begin to appear in considerable
numbers; but we do not find ourselves amidst the full luxuriance
of the S. Alpine Italian flora until after we have passed La Porta,
a rocky defile which, like the Platifer in the Val Leventina (p. 106),
distinctly marks the boundary betwixt two zones of vegetation.
Immediately beyond La Porta the road reaches —
12 M. Promontogno (2685'), commanded by the handsome
church of Our Lady and the ruined castle of Castelmur, from which
two lofty and massive walls stretch down into the valley. ■ — In
an open situation below the village , to the left, is the *Kurh6tel
Bergellerhof (R. 4, pens. 9 fr.). Behind the latter, at the entrance
of the Val Bondasca, of which we obtain an attractive glimpse,
lies the large village of Bondo , with a chateau of the Salis family.
For three months in the year this village never sees the sun.
Chestnuts and rhododendrons flourish here side by side.
Pleasant excursion (guide desirable) to the Val Bondasca, and over the
Lombardoi, Laretlo, and Naravedro Alps to the (4 hrs.) highest Alp di Sclera
(6785'j, grandly situated. To the E. rise the Piz Cacciabella (9745') and the
Pizzi di Sciora; to the S. are the Bondasca Glacier and the bold Badile group
(Piz Cengalo, Piz Badile, Piz 'Trnbinasca). — Over the crevassed Bondasca
Olacier and the Forcella di Bondo (10,500') a hazardous route le.i<ls to the
412 Route loru CASTASEGNA.
Val Porcelizza and Bagni del Masino (p. 410; 10 hrs. from Bondo). — Over
the Cacciabella Pass to the Albigna Glacier and Vicosoprano, or over the
Casnile Pass to the Maloja, see p. 385.
The road now crosses the Mera, here swollen by the wild Bon-
dasca^ and passes the houses of Spino (2630'). A carriage-road
diverges to the right to Soglio (see below). Mulberries, figs, and
vines flourisli here in luxuriant abundance.
14 M. Castasegna (2235'; ^Schumacher ; Alb. Svizzero), a
closely-built but pleasant village, is the last Swiss place.
Pleasant walk through a beautiful chestnut - wood , past the waterfall
of the Aeqiia di Stall, to (1 hr.) Soglio, Ger. Sils {3570' ; "Ildt.-Pens. Giova-
noli, in an old mansion of the Sails family). In the garden of the hotel
the stone-pine or Alpine cedar is seen in curious juxtaposition with the
chestnut. Fine view of the Bondasca Glacier. Descent by a new road to
Spino (see above; carr. to Vicosoprano 10 fr.). — Over the Dnima Pass to
the Averser Thai, see p. 372. — The Piz Gallegione (10,285'), 5 hrs. from
Soglio, is not diflicult (guide necessary). From Soglio in 3'/2 hrs. to the
saddle {Forcella, 8924'), between the Gallegione and the Citiia di Cavio ;
then to the left over debris in I'/z hr. to the top (splendid view).
Immediately below Castasegna, on the other side of the Lovere,
which descends from the right, is the Italian Dogana or custom-house.
I6Y2 M. Villa, called Villa di Chiavenna to distinguish it from
other places of the same name, is a large and picturesquely-
situated village, with a conspicuous pilgrimage-church. IY4 M.
farther down we pass the village of S. Croce.
Near S. Croce (to the left), but on the opposite bank of the Mera,
formerly stood the prosperous little town of P/mcs, with 2430 inhab., which
was entirely destroyed by a landslip from Mte. Conto in 1618. The mass
of earth and rock which buried the town is 60' thick, and is now richly
clothed with chestnuts. In 1861 one of the town-bells waa found. • — Near
Curtiriaccio, 3/4 M. from the road and 41/2 M. from Chiavenna, is the old
baronial Villa Roncalia, with a fine panelled hall.
A little to the right of S. Ahhondio is the fine double waterfall
of the Acqua Fraggia. The road now leads through Campedello and
a suburb of Chiavenna, the name of which, Borgo Nuovo Piuro,
recalls the buried town of Pliirs, to —
20 M. Chiavenna, see p. 375. The railway -station is on the
opposite side of the town.
106. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio.
Coinp. Map, p. 40o.
79 M. Messa<;kuik from Tirano to Bormio daily in 6 hrs. (9 fr. 20 c).
Dn,iGENCE daily (from middle of June to end of Sept.) from the Baths of
Bormio over the Stelvio to Eyrs in lO'/^ hrs. (coupe 7 11. 35 kr.; also open
carriages), leaving the Baths at 6.30 a.m., arriving at S. Maria at 10.30,
tranzenshohe at 1, Trafoi at 3, Prad at 4.30, and Eyrs at 5.20 p.m.;
ft-om Eyrs to Nauders daily in 5, to Landeck (p. 417) in lO'/a hrs. (7 II.
14 kr.). — Extra-Post with two horses from Tirano to the Baths of
Bormio 50 fr. — Return-carriages to Tirano and Bormio are frequently met
with at Poschiavo (p. 408). One-horse carr. from Pontresina to Bormio 80,
two-horse 120 fr., a night being spent at Le Prese (to Le Prese 5^/4 hrs.;
thence to Bormio 8 hrs.). E.xtra-post and pair from the Batha of Bormio
to Trafoi in Q^/2 hrs., CO fr.
The Stelvio Road, the highest in Europe, constructed by the Austrian
government iu 1820-25, traverses splendid scenery, from the rich vine-clad
BORMIO. lOfl. Route. 413
slopes of the Valtellinato the huge glaciers and dazzling snow of the Ortler. On
the S. side of the pass the engineering of the road itself is an object of interest.
Walking. The scenery will reward walkers. From the Baths of Bormio
to (26'/2 M-) Prad; so also from S. Maria over the Woiinser .Joch to S.
Maria in the Miinsterthal in 3, Miinster 3/4, Taufers V2, and Mais iu 2'/2 hrs.
The road ascends from Tiraiio (p. 409) through vineyards to
the Sernio (2080') region of the valley. To the N. rises the pre-
cipitous Mte. Masuccio (9240') , a landslip from which in 1807
blocked the bed of the Adda , and converted the populous and fer-
tile valley as far as Tovo into a lake. At (5 M.) Mazzo the road
crosses the Adda , and at the large village of Grosotto (Leone d'Oro)
the Eoasco, which descends from the Val Grosina. On the left
are the handsome ruins of the fortress of Venosta. We cross the
Adda again beyond Grosio.
12 M. Bolladore (2820'; Posta or Angelo; Hut. des Alpes}.
On the hillside to the N. stands the pretty church of Sondalo. The
valley contracts ; the vegetation becomes poorer ; below us dashes
the grey glacier-water of the Adda. At LaPrese, about I'/a M. beyond
('/2 M.) Mondadizza we again cross the Adda. The (5 M.) defile of
La Serra di Morignone, ^/^ M. long, separates the Valtellina from the
region of Bormio ; at the entrance to it, on the right, are remains of old
fortifications. The Ponte del Diavolo was the scene of a sharp skir-
mish between the Austrians and Garibaldians on 26th June, 1859.
At the end of the defile is the hamlet of Morignone in a green dale
(Valle di Sotto) ; the church stands on the hill far above it. The
next group of houses is 5. Antonio, with its brick-works.
Beyond the village (3'Y4 M.) of Ceppina opens the broad green
valley fPjano^ of Bormio, enclosed by lofty mountains, which are partly
covered with snow. The road crosses the Frodoi/'o, which unites with
the Adda below the bridge, and turns to the N.E. to (3'/4 M.) —
251/2 M. Bormio, Ger. Worms (4020'; '^Posta; *DeUa Torre, in
the Piazza Cavour), at the entrance to the ValFurvu, an old-fashioned
little Italian town, with several dilapidated towers.
In the Val Furva, Ti/a M. to the E., lie the baths of S. Caterina (5726';
-Bath Hotel; Pis Tresero, well spoken of), with a spring strongly impreg-
nated with carbonic acid. (One-horse carr. from the Kew Baths of Bormio,
there and back, 12 fr. or more; diligence twice daily in I'/'i hr.) S. Caterina,
beautifully situated, is a good starting-point for excursions on the S. side
of the Ortler; but the baths are closed in the middle of September.
''Monte Confinale (11,090'; with guide; 5 hrs.), affording an admirable
survey of the Ortler chain, is very interesting and not diflicult.
From Bormio to Livigno a bridle-path (7 hrs. ; without guide; better
in the reverse direction). At Premadio it crosses the Adda and ascends
the Val di Dentro to (I'/a hr.) Isolaccia (p. 407). On the slope to the right
lies the hamlet of Pedenosso, above which, on the saddle of the Monte
delle Scale, rise two towers which once defended that pass (Scale di
Fraele; 6370'). [Over the Scale di Fraele to S. Giacomo di Fraele (6390')
and over the Val Mora Pass and the Gin/plan (7723') to the ISuffalora Alp
near the O/en Pass (p. 401), and Zenietz, 12 hrs.; guide desirable, 20 fr.) Beyond
Isolaccia the path ascends on the left bank of the brook ; '/a hr., Semogo
(4673'; Martinelli, dear); above us, opposite, at the mouth of the Val Viola,
is the church of S. Carlo. (Val Viola Pass to the Beruina, sec p. 407.)
414 Route 106. BATHS OF BORMIO. From Tirano
From the (2V2 hrs.) Foscagno Pass (7556'), with its two little green lakes,
we have a pleasing retrospect of the Val Viola and the S. Ortler Bits. Descent
to (1 hr.) TrepaUe (6850'J; then to the W., over the hill, to (I1/2 hr.) Livigno
(p. 399). From Livigno to the Bernina road over the Passo Fieno or the
Forcola, see pp. 406, 407; to Ponte by the Lavirum Pass, see p. 399; to Scanfs
by the Casana Pass, see p. 400; to Ofen through the Spolthal, see p. 400.
At Bormio the windings of the Stelvio road begin. (The dili-
gence starts from the New Baths, 2 M. from Bormio ; carriage thither
from Bormio should be ordered in good time.)
27i/i> M. Saths of Bormio. The *New Baths (Bagni Nuovi,
4370'; with post-office; R., L., & A. 31/2-4, B. II/2, D. 4, S. 3 fr.),
on a terrace , with a fine view of the valley of Bormio and the sur-
rounding mountains, are much frequented in July and August, and
remain open till the middle of October. The water (92-100°) is con-
veyed by pipes from the springs, 3/4 M. higher, at the Old Baths (see
below), to the left, and reached by a footpath as well as by the road.
The Stelvio road ascends from the New Baths in a long curve,
with beautiful retrospects of the valley from Bormio to Ceppina ; to
the S.W. the Corno di S. Colomhano (9915'), Cima dl Pinzzi
(11,280'), and Cima Redasco (10,300'), to the S.E. the Mte. Va-
laccetta (10,425') and the icy pyramid of Piz Tresero (11,820'),
at the upper end of the Val Furva; to the W. the Vnl Viola (p. 407).
Near the Old Baths we cross an iron bridge , and pass through a
short tunnel (Galleria dei Bagni) , beyond which the Old Baths
{Bagni Vecchi ; 4757') lie below the road on the left. Beyond the
deep gorge of the Adda rises the precipitous Mte. delle Scale (p. 413).
To the left, farther on, the Adda emerges from the wild Val
Fraele. A copious brook, which flows from the cliffs below the mouth
of the Val Fraele, is sometimes erroneously described as the source
of the Adda. A succession of galleries, partly of wood, and partly hewn
in the rocks , for protection against avalanches , carry the road
through a defile (II Diroccamento) to the /« Cantoniera di Piatta
Martina (5585'), a hospice for travellers, and the //« Cantoniera al
piede di Spondalonga (6495') , which was destroyed by Garibal-
dians in 1859. On the W. side of the valley rises the abrupt Mte.
Braulio (9777'). The road crosses the brook issuing from the Val
Vitelli by the Ponte Alto, and ascends in numerous windings, which
the pedestrian may avoid. In a gorge to the left are the * Falls of
the Braulio. "VVe next pass the Casino dei Rotteri di Spondalonga
(7510'), used by the road-menders, and the JJIc Cantoniera al
Piano del Braulio (7875'; Inn, tolerable), with a chapel.
34 M. S. Maria (8150'; Gobbi's Jnn), the IV» Cantoniera and
the Italian custom-house.
A bridle-puth, formerly the only route between the Vintschgau and
Valtellina, diverges to the left from the Cantoniera S. Maria to the Worniser
.Joch, or Giogo di S. Maria (8240'), and descends through the Muranza
Valley to (21/2-3 hrs.) the Swiss village of S. Maria in the Miinsterthal
(p. 416) ; thence by Taiifers in 31/2 hrs. to Mais (p. 41) in the Etschthal.
"Piz TJmbrail (9950'), the E. and highest peak of the bold serrated
mountains which bound the Val Braulio on the N. , is a remarkably fine
to Nauders. STELVIO PASf^. lOfl. Route . 415
point (I'/i hr. ; gviide, for novices , 5-6 fr.). Turning to the left by the
dogana , we ascend a grassy slope and then a stony zigzag path to the
summit. Superb view (see Panorama by Faller). Travellers from Bormio
may ascend this peak by diverging to the left from the road '/-i lir. beyond
the Third C'antoniera (p. 414) and ascending to (1 hr.) a small lake, and
mounting rocks to the (1 hr.) top. Descent to the Fourth Cantoniera.
Beyond S. Maria, the road affords glimpses of the Miinsterthal
to the left. On the right, rise the huge Eben and Stelvio glaciers.
The pass is never free from snow except in warm summers ; in June
heaps of snow, 6-8' deep, are often seen on the road-side.
On the (17.2 M.) Stelvio Pass (Stiifser Joch, or Ferdinandshohe,
9055') stands a road-menders' house. A column to the right marks
the highest point and the boundary between Italy and Tyrol. About
'/o M. to the N. is the frontier of Switzerland (Orisons).
A path ascends by the workmen's house to the left in 10 min. to the
sn-called ' Dreispracheiispitze (about 9180'), a rocky height aftbrding an ad-
mirable view, particularly of the Ortler, whose snowy dome rises imme-
diately opposite. The bare, reddish Monte Pressura (Rothelspitze ; 9941'),
towards the N.W. intercepts the view of the Miinsterthal.
The road now descends the talc-slate slopes in long windings
(to Trafoi 33 in all). To the right, high above the snowy slopes, rise
the Gelsterspitze [iij'Sob'^ a^ivl Tuckettspitze (11,400'). As the road
affords the finest views, the short-cuts should be avoided.
401/2 M. Franzenshohe (7180'; *Inn, K. 70 kr.), formerly a post-
station. To the S. the huge Madatsch Glacier extends far into the
valley. About 2 M. farther, just beyond the 18th kilometre-stone, is
the spot where Madeleine de Tourville, an English lady, was murdered
by her husband, a Walloon, in 1876. The *Weisse Knott, a small
platform a little farther on, is an excellent point of view: before ns
rises the sombre Madatschspitz ; to the right the Madatsch Glacier,
with its splendid ice-fall ; to the left the Trafoier Ferner, and above
it the Pleisshorn and Ortler ; in the valley far below, amidst pines,
is the chapel of the Three Holy Springs (see below). In the back-
ground to the N. rises the snowy pyramid of the Weisskugel.
45 M. Trafoi (5080'; *Post ; *Zur Schonen Aussicht), a small ham-
let, finely situated (one-horse carr. to Prad 'd\/o fl.).
Pleasant walk (3/4 hr.) to the "Three Holy Springs (5263'), which rise
in the valley below, at the foot of the Ortler. The path (guide unneces-
sary) diverges from the road to the left, 3 min. above the Post, and leads
at the same level through meadows and wood, and over moraine. At the
end of the valley are figures of Christ, Mary, and St. John, under a roof,
from whose breasts flows the very cold 'holy water'. Adjacent are a chapel
and an auberge for pilgrims. Opposite rises the huge and abrupt Madatsch,
over the dark limestone rocks of which two brooks are precipitated, .\bove,
to the left, are the ice-masses of the Trafoier and Lower Ortler-Ferner,
overtopped by the Trafoier Eiswand. The scene is interesting and impressive.
The ascent of the Ortler (12,800') from this side is now facilitated by
the erection of the Payerhiilte (p. 416), reached from Trafoi in 4 hrs.
(thence to the top 4-5 hrs.; guide 10 fl. •, comp. Saedeker\<: Eastern Alps).
We now follow the impetuous Trafoi-Bach, the inundations of
which are sometimes very destructive, and pass {S^/2 M.) Oomagoi,
Ger. Beidewasser (4265'; Inn), with a small fort erected in 1860.
To the right lies the Suldenthal, T'/^M. long, a great resort of moun-
taineers. Bridle-path (road in progress) to (2'/2hr3.) St. Oerlnnl or Siil Jen
41G Rniile 100. PRAD.
(6(J(i4'; *Eller; *Zum Ortler), with the church of the valley, splendidly sit-
uated. The Gampenho/e, V2 hr. above St. Gertrud , command an impos-
ing view of the Urtler chain. — The 'Ortler (12,800'), the highest of the
Eastern Alps, is frequently ascended from Sulden, l)ut is difiicult and
fatiguing, and fit for adepts only (guide 10 fl.). The night is passed in the
(3'/2 hrs.) I'ayerhiltte on the Tabaretta-Kumm (9910' ); thence to the top,
chiefly over snow, 4 hrs. more. (Further details in Baedeker''s E. Alps,.)
The narrow valley barely affords room for the road and river.
The latter forms several falls. On the hill to the left lies the village
otStilfs, Ital. Stelvio, which gives its name to this route.
53 M. Prad (2940'; *Neue Post; '-'AUe Post), or Brad, lies at
the foot of the Stelvio route. The road intersects the broad valley
of the Etsch, ox Adige, crosses a marsh and the river by a long bridge,
and reaches (2 M.) Spondinig (2855 ' ; *Hirsch} , on the high-road
from Botzen and Meran to Landeck, l'/2 M. to the W. of Eyrs.
Walkers may avoid the glaring and fatiguing road from Prad by
Spondinig to Mais by diverging to the left at Prad , on the right bank of
the Adige, and following the foot of the mountains, to Agums, Hchtenherg
('Inn), charmingly situated amidst fruit-trees, with a ruined castle (see
below), Gluriis (3260'; Krone), a small fortified town with an old church,
and (21/2 hrs.) Mais (see below).
To THE MiJNSTERTHAL a narrow road leads from Glurns to the W., on
the right bank of the Rambach, which here falls into the Adige. After
2'/2 M. it crosses the brook. (Koute on the right bank by Riffair not re-
commended.) The (5 M.) loftily situated village of Taufers (4042'), with its
three churches, is commanded by three ruined castles. (Over La Cruschetla
to Scarl, see p. 404.) A broad road leads hence to the (V2 M.) Swiss frontier
and (1/2 M.) Munster, Rom. Mustair (3765'; Piz Ciavakitscfi ; Hirsch), the first
village in the Grisons , with a large Benedictine church. The road descends,
crosses the Rambach (passing the Aua da Pisch, a fine waterfall in a wood-
ed gorge to the left) , and ascends gradually by Sielva to (2 M.) .5. Maria
(4553'; PizUmbrail; Weisses Kreuz), a large village at the mouth of the
Val Muranza. Over the Wormser Joch to Bormio, see p. 414 ; over the Ofen
Pass to Zernetz, see p. 401; through the Val Scarl to Schuls, see p. 404.
The road to Nauders skirts tlie hillside at some distance from
the Adige. The valley is called the Upper Vintschgau, after the
Venosti, its ancient inhabitants. To the left, on the opposite bank,
rises the half-ruined castle of Lichtenberg . On the right is the Chur-
hurg, a chateau of Count Trapp. We next pass Schluderns, Tartsch,
and, near Mais, the ancient tower of the Frolichsburg .
61 1/2 M. Mais (3428' ; Post or Adler; Bar; Hirsch') is a village of
Roman origin. On the opposite bank of the Adige rises the large
Benedictine Abbey of Marienberg . To the left, farther on, are the
village of Burgeis and the castle of Furstenburg. This monotonous
part of the valley is called the Malser Heide. The road ascends and
soon reaches the E. bank of the Heider-See, and beyond it —
69 M. St. Valentin auf der Heide (4695'; Post). Magnificent
retrospective *Vie-w (most striking when approached from Nauders)
of the ice-clad Ortler range, which forms the entire background. Skirt-
ing the E. bank of the Milter-See, the road leads to (3'/2 M.) Oraun,
at the entrance of the Langtauferer Thai. To the left is the green
Ileschen-See, the source of the Adige. Beyond (2 M. ) Reschen (4888';
Stern), at the N. end of the lake, we reach the Reschen-Scheideck
LANDECK. 107. Route. 417
(4898'), the water-shed between the Black Sea and tlie Adriatic,
and then descend by the Stille Bach to (41/2 M.) —
79 M. Nauders (4468'; *Post; *LSu-e: Mondschein). The old
castle of Naudersberg contains the district courts of justice.
From l^audei's to the Lower Engadine (dilig. to SchuU daily), sec p. 405.
107. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg.
Comp. Maj)s, pp. 3ii, 52.
103 M. Diligence from Nauders to Landeck (SG'/a 31.) daily in 5'/4 hrs.
(also an omnibusj. Railway from Landeck to Bregenz, 76'/2 M-, in 41/4-6 hrs. j
fares-511., 311. 80, 20. 5okr. (express 6fl. 35 or 5fl.).
The road through the Finstermiinz Pass runs high above the
river, being hewn at places in the perpendicular slate-rock (three
tunnels, two avalanche-galleries). At the entrance to the pass is a
small fort, and beyond it a pretty waterfall. The finest point on the
route is *Hoch-Finstermunz (3730'), a group of houses with a *Hotel.
Far below is the ancient Finstermiinz (3'203'), with its tower and a
bridge over the Inn. The ravine of the Inn, with the Engadine Mts.
in the background, is very picturesque.
The road descends gradually, and crosses the Inn near —
8 M. Pfunds (3185'), consisting of two villages, separated by
the Inn : on the right bank, Pfunds (*Inn), on the left bank Stuben
(*Traube ; Post), through which the road runs. To the S.W. towers
Piz Mondin (10,278'), a peak of the N. Engadine chain; to the
S.E. the Glockthurm (10,995') and other peaks of the Oetzthaler
Ferner. The road again crosses the Inn near (4 M.) Tijsens.
171/2 M. Ried(2850'; *Post; Maass), a thriving village, with the
castle of Siegmundsried. The road crosses to the left bank at (2 M.)
Prutz (Rose), at the mouth of the Kaunserthal , in which lies Kal-
tenbrunn, a resort of pilgrims. On a precipice to the left is the
ruined castle of Laudegg ; near it lies the village of Ladis (3880'),
with sulphur-baths (moderate) , 1 hr. from Prutz ; 1/2 ^^- higher is
Obladis (4530') , a bath-house with mineral springs, well fitted up
and finely situated, but not accessible by carriage.
The road recrosses the Inn by the (21/2 M.) Pontlatz Bridge
(2770'), 6 M. from Landeck, where the Bavarian Invaders of the
Tyrol were signally defeated by the Tyrolese 'Landsturm' in 1703
and 1809. To the right Flies, with Schloss Bideneck. To the left,
on the opposite bank, a fall of the Urgbach, high above which is the
village of Hochgallmig. The Inn dashes through a narrow gorge and
forms several series of cataracts.
27 M. Landeck (2668'; *Post; Goldner Adler ; Schu-arzer Adler^,
a large village on both banks of the Inn , is commanded by the an-
cient Feste Landeck, now tenanted by poor families. Tlie Railway
Station (Restaurant) lies IV4 M. to the S.W.
The *Arlberg Railway, opened in 1884, crosses the Inn.
Looking back, we get a glimpse of the picturesque Landeck to the
Baedekek, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 27
418 Route 11)7. ARLBERG. From Nauders
loft, and of tlic liuge Pnrseierspitze (9954') to tho right. Tlic train
ascends on the right bank of the deep Sannathal to (30 '/o M. from
Nauders) Stat. Plans (2990' ) , opposite the beautifully situated
village of that name (Alte and Neue Post), above which lies Grins.
After crossing several viaducts we obtain a view of Schloss Wies-
berg , and near it we cross the Trisanna , which emerges from the
Patznaunthal and unites with the Rosanna to form the Sanna, by
means of a bold bridge , 286 yds. long and 282' in height. Then
a tunnel, 221 yds. long.
34 M. Strengen (3215') lies at the N. base of the Petziner Spitze
(8353'). To the W. rises the Riffler (9880'), with its steep glacier.
We follow the right bank of the Rosanna to (36 M.)Flirsch (3680';
*Post), at the foot of the Eisenkopf (9262'), prettily situated. Near
the village of Schnan, '/o M- to the W., is the Schnaner Klamm,
a narrow rocky gorge of the Schnanerbach.
The valley expands. The train ascends more gradually and
crosses the Rosanna three times. 40 M. Pettneu. Crossing the
stream twice more, we next reach (44 M.) St. Anton (4206'; *Post;
Rail. Restaurant), the highest village in the Rosanna Valley or
Stanzer Thai, at the E. base of the Arlberg.
Immediately beyond St. Anton the train enters the great '''Arl-
berg Tunnel, nearly 6I/3 M. long (St. Gotthard Tunnel 91/4 M.),
ascends slightly to the middle of it (4300' above the sea-level ;
1600' below the Arlberg Pass), and then descends rapidly to the
Klosterthal, watered by the Alfenz. 50'/2M. Langen(3923'), on the
right bank of the stream. At first running high up on the N. side
of the valley, the train descends to (54 M.) Danofnen and —
58 M. Dalaas (3054'); the prettily situated village lies far
below in the valley (2750' ; Post). Several more viaducts and
tunnels. 591/2 M. Hintergasse (2703'). At (62 M.) Bratz (2326';
*L6we) the train reaches the bottom of the valley. To the right
a considerable fall of the Fallback. The train then traverses the
broad valley of the III to —
66V2M. Bludenz (1906'; *Bludenzer Hof, Scesaplana, Arlher-
gerHof, at the station; in the town, Post; *Kreuz; Krone), prettily
situated. To the S. is the picturesque ravine of the Brandner Thai,
with the ice-elad Scesaplana in the background.
KXCDKSION TO THE LUNEKSKE AND AsCENT OP THE ScESAPLANA , Very
interesting. (To the lake 5V2 hrs., an easy route.) We descend and cross
ttie 111 to Bilrs, and ascend the charming Brandner-T/ial to (2V2 hrs.) Brand
(3376'; *Beck; *Kegele). The path mounts on the right bank of the jliuj'erftacA
the Alp Lagant, and ascends thence in zigzags over grass, debris, and rock.
To the right rises the Seekopf, with its huge stony slopes ; over the rocks to
the left falls a fine cascade of the brook issuing from the Liinersee. We
next reach (3 hrs.) the depression on the N.W. side of the beautiful,
dark-green 'Lunersee (6312'), the largest lake among the Ehsetian Alps,
4 M. in circumference. On the W. bank is the Douglas Hut (Inn).
The ascent of the 'Scesaplana (9738'), the highest peak of the Rhsetikon
chain, is toilsome, but safe (4 hrs.; guide from Bludenz 9, from Brand
7 fl.). Leaving the Douglas Hut , we skirt the lake for a little way and
to Breyenz. MONTAVON. 107. Route. 419
then ascend to the right, at first on turf, and then over loose stones and
the dreary rock-strewn Todte Alp. Lastly we pass through a steep 'che-
minee'' to the arete to the top without difficulty. The imposing prospect
embraces the whole of Swabia towards the N., as far as Ulm; the Vor-
arlberg and Algau Alps to the K.E. ; the Oetzthal, Stubay, and Zillerthal
Alps to the E. ; and the Swiss Alps from the Silvretta and Bernina to the
St. Gotthard and the Bernese Mts., and the Rhine Valley, Canton of
Appenzell, and Lake of Constance to the S. and W. — Descent to the
Schamella Club Hut and by the Alp Pains to (4 hrs.) Seewis in the Prati-
gau , see p. 348. From the Douglas Hut to (7 hrs.) Schruns (see belowj
an attractive route leads past the grand ^ScAweizer-TVior (pass to thePriitigau,
p. 349j to the Oefen Pass, and descends to the finely situated Sporeralp
and through the Gauerthal (see below ; adepts may dispense with a guide).
The Uontavon (comp. Map, p. 344), to the S.E. of Bludenz, is a beau-
tiful and populous valley, watered by the 111, and separated from the Pra-
tigau on the S. by the Rhaetikon Mts. (for a fuller description, see B(rdeker''s
Easteiii Alps). The road (omnibus to Schruns several times daily, 60 kr.),
leads by St. Peter to (4 M.) St. Anion, a hamlet on a mound of debris at
the base of the Schwarzhorn; then, following the right bank of the 111, to
(3V2 M.) Schruns (2250'; pop. 1710; '-Liiwe; "Taiibe), the chief place in the
valley, charmingly situated at the base of the Bart/iolomaberij (4880'; a fine
point of view). On the opposite bank of the 111 lies Tschagiivs , at the
entrance to the Gauerthal, from which a path crosses the Drusenlkor (7710'),
between the Driisenfluh (9298') and the Sulzjiuh (9265'), to (8 hrs.) Seiners
(p. 348) in the Pratigau. (To the Liinersee, see above.) Over the Partnun
<ir Gruben Pass, or over the Plasseggen Pass to (7-8 hrs.) Kiiblis see p. 349.
— The 'Sulzfluh (9265'; 8 hrs.; guide 9 (1.) is a splendid point, hardly
inferior to the Scesaplana, and not difficult: to the Tilisuna Ilut (Inn)
4V2 hrs., to the top 3V2 hrs. more.
Above Schruns the valley contracts. At (2 hrs.) Gallenkirch (2730'; Inn)
the Gargellen - Thai opens to the S., through which tolerable routes cross
the Antonier or Gargeller Joch (7664') to (8 hrs.) Kiiblis (p. 349), and the
Schlappina Joch (7100') to (8 hrs.) Klosters in the Pratigau (p. 350). Passing
Gurtepohl, we next reach (2 hrs.) Gaschurn (Rossi), prettily situated at the
mouth of the Gannerathal, and (1 hr.) Patenen (3435' ; Sonne), the last village
in the Montavon. (Passes into the Patznatrn, see Baedeker^s Eastern Alps.)
From Patenen over the Vermont Pass to Guarda in the Lower
Engadine (10 hrs. ; with guide), tiring, but attractive. We ascend the
Gross-Vermuntthul to the right, passing the grand Stiiber-Fall or Ilolkn-
Fall to the (3'/2 hrs.) Madlenerhaus (about 6560'; inn), on the Gross- Ver-
munt-Alp, on the W. side of the 5(€Jer //67(c. We next ascend to the S. to
the source of the 111 (7140') at the foot of the great Vermunl Glacier, and
toil up the moraine and the glacier to the Vermunt Pass (9205'), between
the Dreildaderspitze (10,495') on the E. and Piz Biiin (10,870'), the highest
of the Vorarlberg Mts., on the W. (ascended by adepts without difficulty
from the Madlenerhaus in 6 hrs.). Steep descent to the Val Tiioi and
Guarda (p. 401).
The line crosses the 111 heyond (70 M.) Strassenhaus, and the
Mangbach, descending from the Gamperton- Thai on the left, near
(73 M.) Nenziny. 771/2 M. Frastanz, at the mouth of the Samwa-
Thal. The Illthal , below Bludenz called the Wallgau, contracts.
At Feldkirch the river forces a deep passage (06ere and Untere III-
klamrn) through the limestone rocks before emptying itself into the
broad Rhine Valley. The train crosses the 111 , enters the Upper
Klamm, and passes through a short tunnel.
80 M. Feldkirch (1482'; pop. 3600; ^Englischer Hof or Post;
Lowe; SchdfLe, well spoken of; beer at the Rossi'), a natural fortress,
hemmed in by mountains, and once the key to the Tyrol, is a pleasant
little town, above which rises the mined Schattenbury . A large Jesuit
27*
420 Route 107. RREOENZ.
school here is called the Stella Matutina. The Parish Church, erect-
ed in 1487, contains a 'Descent from the Cross' attributed to Hol-
bein ; and the Capucldn Church has another good painting of the
same subject. By the Gymnasium are tasteful Alpine grounds.
Fine view of tlie Rhine Valley, from the Falknis tn Lake Constance,
and of the gorge of the 111, from the "Margarethenkapf (1830'), a hill 20 min.
to the W., on the left bank of the 111, with the villa and pleasant park
of Hr. V. Tschavoll (tickets at the hotels; visiting-card also sufficient).
From Feldkirch to Bdchs (IIV2M.) railway in 3/4 hr. (fares 77, 65, 39
kr.). It sweeps round the Ardetzenherg, crosses the 111 at NofeU, and inter-
sects the broad Rhine Valley. Stations JVentiein and Schaan. (Vaduz, 2 M.
to the S., p. 340.) Near Bucks (p. 340) it crosses the Rhine.
The train now skirts the E. side of the wooded and vine-clad
Ardetzenberg . 83 M. Rankweil, at the mouth of the Laternser Thai,
with a picturesquely situated church. Above the alluvial plain of
the Rhine rise several wooded knolls, the chief of which is the Kum-
menbery (2186'), to the left. Near (88 M.) Ootsis, with its modern
Romanesque church, are two ruined castles of the Montforts.
91 M. Hohenems (1407'; ^Post) lies at the foot of bold rocks,
crowned with the castles of Neu and Alt-Ems. The half-ruined
chateau in the village belonged to the once powerful Counts of
Hohenems. Crossing the Dornbirner Ach, we next reach —
95 M. Dornbirn (1417'; pop. 9000; *Hirsch; *Mohr'), a thriv-
ing little town, upwards of 2 M. in length. The S.W. background
is formed by the Appenzell Mts., the Kamor and Hohekasten, the
snow-clad Sentis, and the serrated Curfirsten. 98 M. Schwarzach;
IOOY2 M. Lautrach. (Junction-line to the left to St. Margrethen,
p. 339.) The train then crosses the Bregenzer Ach to —
103m. Bregeuz. —Hotels. *Oesterreich. Hof, on thequay; ''Hot.
EuROPA , "MoNTFORT, both at the station; "Weis-ses Kreuz, Romer-Str. ;
'Krone; Schweizerhof; LOwe, unpretending. — Wine at F. Kinz^s, on
the road to the <Tebhardsberg. Beer at Forster^s Brewery and at the Hirsch,
on the same road.
Bre^rcnz (1312'; pop. 4800), the capital of the Vorarlberg , the
Brigantium of the Romans, is beautifully situated at the E. end of
the Lake of Constance. The Old, or Upper Town, on a height, occu-
pies the site of the Roman Cainp , and formerly had two gates, the
southern of which has been removed. Fine survey from the Pier.
The Gebhardsberg (1945'; ascent V2 hr-, the last half through wood),
with the ruined castle of Uohenhregenz, an auberge, and a pilgrimage-church,
commands the Lake of Constance, the valley of the Bregenzer Ach and
the Rhine, and the Alps of Appenzell and Glarus. Picturesque foreground,
formed by precipitous pine-clad hills.
The "PfSnder (3464'J, to the E. of Bregenz , commands a far more
extensive prospect. The path (l'/2 hr.) ascends to the right by the old
barracks at the N. end of Bregenz, traverses wood, passes the (50 min.)
'Halbstation-Pfander' aubersie, and follow.s the telegraph-wires to the large
"Hotel (pens. 3V2 fr.) , 5 min. from the top. The longer carriage-road
(2-21/2 hrs.) leads through the upper part of the town to the 'Berg-Iser
(rifle-range), then chielly through wood to the hamlet of K«A (Krone) and
thence to the hotel.
Railway to Lindau (6 M. ; p. 51) by LocJiau in 22 min. (60, 42, 30 kr.).
Steamboats on the Lake of Constance, see p. 27.
VII. THE ITALIAN LAKES.
108. From Belliiizoiia to Lugano and Conio (Milan) . . 421
Excursions from Lugano: Monte S. Salvatore ; Monte
Bre ; Monte Caprino ; 424. — S. Bernarflo ; Bigorio ; Mcinte
Boglia; Monte Camoghe ; Monte Tainaro; Val Maglia-
sina, 424, 425. — Monte Generoso, 426.
109. From r.ellinzona to Locarno. Val Maggia .... A1G
Val Verzasca, 427. — From Locarno to Domo d'Ossola
through the Centovalli and Vigez/.o valleys. Val Onser-
none. Val Rovana, 428. — Excursions from Big-
nasco. Through the Val Bavona to the Tosa Falls or
to Airolo; Piz Basodino ; Val Prato; Campo Tencia,
429. — From Fusio to Airolo, Ossasco , Faido, or to
Rodi-Fiesso, 429.
110. Lago Maggiore 430
Val Cannobbina, 431. — Sasso del Ferro ; S. Caterina del
Sasso, 432. — From Laveno to the Borromean Islands ;
to Milan , 432. — From Intra to Bee and to Premeno,
433. — Walks from Pallanza, 433. — Borromean Islands,
431. — From Arona to Milan, 436.
111. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo 430
Monte Motterone, 436. — The Sacro Monte near Orta, 437.
— The Sacro Monte near Varallo, 439. — From Varallo
to Ponte Grande and to Alagna; Val Sermenza, 439. —
From Varallo to Novara, 439.
112. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the
Lake of Como. Lake of Lugano 440
From Ponte Tresa to Lugano by land, 440. — Grottoes
of Osteno and Rescia; Lanzo d'Intelvi, 441.
113. Lake of Como 442
Monte Legnone, 443. — Monte Grigna, 444. — Jlonte
Crocione, 445. — Monte S. I'rimo, 446. — Lake of Leeco,
447. — From Lecco to Milan and to Bergamo , 448. —
From Como to Erba and Bellagio by land, 449. — From
Como to Laveno via Varese, 449.
1 14. From Como to Milan 450
108. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como f Milan).
Comp. Map, p. 442.
Railway (comp. p. 99) from Bellinzona to Lugano, 19 M., in 50-68
min. (3 fr., 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 50 c.) ; from Lugano to Cotiw, 20 M., in 2 hrs. (3 fr.
20, 2 fr. 25. 1 fr. 60 c.); from Lugano to Milaii, 48V2 M., in 3-3V4 lirs. (8 fr.
55, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 30 c).
. Bellinzona (760'), see p. 107. A tunnel of 313 yds. carries the
train under the Castello di Svitto (p. 107). At (21/2 M.) Giubiasco
the line to the Lago Maggiore (p. 430) diverges to the right.
Trending to the left, the Lugano line approaches the foot of the
mountains near Camorino, and begins to ascend the Monte Cenere,
through walnut and chestnut-trees. S. Antonio lies helow on the
right ; then Cadenazzo (p. 426). Two tunnels (the Precassino,
422 RoulelOf^. U'GANO. From BeUimonn
435 yds.; and the Megyiagra, 111 yds.). View of the Ticino Valley,
the influx of the Ticino into the Lago Maggiore, Locarno, and the
Val Maggia Mts., improving as we ascend. We pass under Monte
Cenere, the top of which is 370' ahove, by means of a tunnel, 1840
yds. long (1437' ahove the sea-level), to —
9 M. Rivera-Bironico (1420') , in the bleak valley of the Le-
guana. We follow the Leguana, which soon joins the Vedeggio, de-
scending from the Mte. Camoghe (^. A2b), to form the Agno. Beyond
the short Molincero Tunnel is (15 M.) Taverne (1130'; *Jnn at
Taverne Inferiori). At Lamone (1033') the train leaves the Agno
and ascends past Cadempino and Vezia to the Massagno Tunnel
(1135'; 1016 yds. long), describes a long curve (with a line view of
the lake to the left), and reaches the station, high above the town, of —
19 M. Lugano. — The Railway Station tPl. C, 2; -Restaurant) lies
on the hill above the town, of which it commands a line view as well as
of the lake. Besides the road there is a shorter footpath and a Cable
Tramwat {Funicolare; comp. PI. C, 2, 3), to the right of the exit from the
station (fares up 30 or 20 c., down 20 or 10 c). — The Steamboat (p. 441)
has two piers (PI. B, 5, and C, 3).
Hotels (the chief of which send omnibuses to meet the trains and
steamers). On the lake: 'Hotel du Parc (PI. a; B, C, 4) in an old mon-
astery at the S. end of the town , with shady garden (band thrice a day)
and the d^pendances of Belvedere, Villa Ceresio, and ' Beau-S^jour (PI. b ;
B, 4; the last, with fine garden, alone open in winter), R., L., & A. 5-6,
B. IVi', D- 5, omnibus I'/s, pens. 9-11 fr. ; *Hot. Splendide (PI. c; B, 5),
5 min. farther W. , on the Paradiso road (see below), pens. 10-12 fr. -,
Hot. -Pens. Lugano, with a small garden, well spoken of; Hot. -Restaur.
Americano (PI. f; D, 3), Piazza Bandcria, pens. 6 fr. — In the town: Hot.-
Restaur. Suisse (PI. g; D, 3), near the Piazza Bandoria, R. <fe A. 2V2> B.
l'/4, lunch 2, D. 3V2 fr. ; 'Pension Zweii-el, Pens. GrOtli, both plain. —
Near the station: *Hot. St. Gotthard, new; Hot. Washington, to the N.
of the station, R., L., & A. 31/2, D. 81/2, pens. 7-8 fr. ; Hot. National
(PI. h ; D, 1), in the former Villa Enderlin, with fine garden, pens, from
8 fr. ; *Hot.-Pens. Beauregard (PI. i ; B, 3), *H6t.-Pens. Beausite (PI. k ;
B, 3), both to the S. of the station, on the hill; Pens. Bon-Air, a little
below the station. — At Paradiso, 1/2 M. to the S., Hot.-Pens. Beau-
rivage (PI. m; B, 6), with the de'pendance Villa Rosa; "Hot.-Pens.
Reichmann (PI. n; B, 6), 7-9 fr. ; -Bellevue (PI. A, 6), pens. 6-8 fr. ; all
with gardens on the lake and fine views. — At Cassarate, 1 M. to the E.,
in a sheltered position, with a S. aspect, 'Pens. Villa Castagnola (PI.
G, 3), with pretty garden, 6-8 fr. ; Pens. Villa du Midi (PI. G, 5), 'A M.
farther on, 41/2-5 fr-
Restaurants. At the Hotels; "Trattoria Biaggi (also R. and pens.), to
the W. of the Piazza della Riforma, on the way to the cable-tramway,
thoroughly Italian. — Beer at the Brasserie Bale, at the N.E. corner of the
Piazza Bandoria ; Walter; Steinhof, near the quay, next the Hotel Lugano.
— "Cafi Jacchiiii, Piazza della Riforma. — Confectioner: Meister.
Lake Baths on the Paradiso road (plain; 80c. with towels); Warm
Baths at Anastasfs, near the Hotel du Pare.
Post & Telegraph Office (PI. D, 3), Via Canova, near the Hot. Suisse.
— Physicians, Dr. Cornils , Dr. Zbinden, Dr. Reali. — Bookseller, Dalp,
Piazza Bandoria.
Carriage to Luino with one horse 12, with two 20 fr. (fee extra).
English Church Service in a chapel Iseside the Hotel du Parc.
Lugano (932'; pop. 7161), the largest town in Canton Ticino,
charmingly situated on the lake of the same name, with quite an
Italian climate, is a pleasant place for a prolonged stay. The scenery is
GeogTjrph Anstait toti
IE S
AVa^uFT &> Deb*fs .Xerpxie'
to Como. LUGANO. lOS. Route. 123
Italian in character ; numerous villages and country-scats are scattered
along the banks of the lake , and the lower hills are covered with
■vineyards and gardens, contrasting beautifully with the dark foliage
of the chestnuts and walnuts. To the S., immediately above the
town , rises the dolomitic Monte S. Salvatore (p. 424), wooded to
its summit; to the E., across the lake, is the Monte Caprino, to the
left the Monte Bre and the beautiful Monte Botjlia. On the N. opens
the broad valley of the Cassarate, backed by a group of mountains
among which the double peak of Monte Camoghe (p. 425) is con-
spicuous.
A broad Quay, planted with trees, and frequented as an evening
promenade, stretches along the bank of the lake. Opposite the
steamboat pier is the imposing Palazzo Ciuico (PI. d; G, 3), with a
beautiful colonnaded court. It is adjoined on the E. by the Theatre,
beyond which is the spacious Piazza Bandoria , at the harbour.
The Piazza delta Riforma lies farther back. At the S. end of the
bay rises a Fountain Statue of Tell by Vela. — The church of S.
Maria degli Angioli (opposite, adjoining the Hotel du Pare) con-
tains a fresco on the rood-loft by Luini, the *Passion, one of his
finest works, with numerous figures. On the wall to the left is the
Last Supper, in three sections, and in the 1st Ghapel on the right
a fine Madonna, both on panel by Luini.
The interior of the town, with its arcades, workshops in the open
air, and granite-paved streets, is also quite Italian in its character.
5^. Lorenzo (PI. G, 2), the principal church, on a height below the
station , probably erected by Tommaso Rodari at the close of the
15th cent., has a tastefully enriched marble faijade. — The terrace
in front of the station commands an extensive *View.
Pleasant Walk to the S., on the high-road past the Hotel d>i Pare
and Hotel Splendide, through the suburb of Paradiso (PI. A, V>, 6)
and by the foot of Mte. Salvatore, to the (IV4 M.) headland of
-5;. Martino, a charming point of view. To the W. by the winding
road to Ponte Tresa (PI. A, B, 4, 5), which diverges to the S. at
the Villa Beause'jour (short cuts for walkers), to the (l',2-l'V4 ^^-^
hill on which lies the frequented Restaurant du Jardin. The village
of Sorenyo is situated on a hill to the right (fine view from the
church); to the W. is the Lake of Muzzano A carriage-road leads
from the Restaurant du .Jardin, to the left, via Gentilino, to (IV2 ^T.)
the conspicuous church of -S. Abbondio, in the graveyard of which
are several monuments by Vela. — To the E., from the Piazza
Castello, we may follow the Via al Gampo Marzio, which crosses the
(I/4 M.) Cassarate, to (3/4 M.) Cassarate (PI. G, 3), and thence pro-
ceed by the sunny high-road skirting the foot of the Mte. Bre to
(1 M.) Castagnola, where we obtain a fine view of tlie Mte. Salva-
tore. At No. 227 in the Piazza Gastello is the entrance to the
shady grounds of the Villa Oabrini, formerly the Villa Ciani (PI.
D, E, 3; 'La Desolazione', a mourning woman by Vela; gardener
424 lioule lO'H. MONTE S. SALVATOKE. From BeUin-Mna
1 fr.}. ■ — If time permit some of the villas near Lugano may he
visited; most of them are shewn on application to the gardener.
To the N., on a hill, are the Villa Maraini (PI. C, 1) and the Villa
Luvini (PI. D, 1); at Canobbio (1275'), 1 M. to the N. (comp. PI.
E, 1) is the Villa IVevano, the property of the Russian general Von
Heins, on a hill commanding the ValCassarate, with fine grounds; etc.
The 'Monte S. Salvatore (2982' ; ascent 2-2i/4, descent I1/2 lirs. •, guide
4 fr., superfluous; mule 8 fr., incl. guide and fee; cable-railway, opened
in 18£0, fare up or down 4 fr. ; comp. PI. A, 6), is a charming point ot
view. About 300 paces beyond the Hotel Splendide, before llie first house
of Paradiso (p. 423) a road diverges to the right from the S. Martino
road; 2 min. farther, we ascend between the houses a litlle to the left,
pass the Hotel Bellevue and under the railway. We proceed via Calprino
to (IV2 M) the village of Pazzallo., from which Monte Rosa is visible through
an opening in the mountains. Here we diverge to the left by a lane 'Al
Monte', and then follow the bridle-path. The route, which is stony at
places, but cannot be mistaken, crosses the (12 min.) cable-railway. In
IV2 hr. from Paz/.allo we reach the small inn (6 beds), immediately bcluw
the summit on which there is a pilgrimage chapel. The ''View embraces
all the arms of the Lake of Lugano, the mountains and their wooded slopes,
and the beautiful villas and gardens above Lugano. To the E. above Por-
lezza is Monte Legnone (p. 444); to the N. , above Lugano, rises the
double peak of Monte Camoghe; to the left of this are the distant Rhein-
wald Mts.; towards the W. is the Monte Rosa chain, with the Mont Cervin
and other Valaisian Alps to the right. (Morning light most favourable.) —
The beautiful and fragrant Daphne Cneorum and the Helleborus niger, or
'Christmas Rose', both adapted for transplantation to gardens, are found
on this mountain.
The *Monte Bre (3500'; ascent 2V-2-3, descent I3/4 hrs. from Lugano;
guide needless ; mule 10 fr.) aflbrds another beautiful walk. From the
Piazza Castello to the iron bridge over the Cassarate, see p. 423. Beyond
the bridge we turn to the left, then after about 130 paces to the right,
and ascend the winding road between low walls to the large mill, Moli-
nazzo (PI. G, 2), where mules may be hired. Thence by the same road
to (1 M.) Viganello^ and below the hill crowned by the church of Pazzo-
lino turn to the right to (I1/4 M.) Bonago. Thence the road again ascends,
partly between walls, and among chestnuts, figs, and vines, to (Vi br.)
Oesago, on the mountain-slope, the highest village visible from Lugano.
Desago may also be reached in 3/4-I hr. from Castagnola (p. 423), via
Ruvigliano. Above Desago the path divides : both branches lead round to the
(^1 '2-3/4 hr.) village o( Brh (2031'; 2 hrs. from Lugano; Restaurant &. Pension
Forni), at the back of the hill. From the church of Bre a narrow forest-
path ascends to the W. to the ('/-i hr.) top of the hill. This path also
divides, both branches being attractive : that to the right ascends at once ;
that to the left first leads to a spur in the direction of Lugano, and then
ascends at the back of the hill. Beautiful view of the different bays of the
Lake of Lugano, especially towards Porlezza, and of the surrounding moun-
tains. Lugano is visible from the above-mentioned spur, but not from the top.
Monte Caprino, opposite Lugano, on the E. bank of the lake, is a favourite
holiday resort of the townspeople, who have wine-cellars (cantine) in the
cool grottoes by which the hillside is honeycombed. The huts guarding
these cellars look like a village from a distance. At some of them good
'Asti' and other wines of icy coolness are sold. These cellars are closed
in the evening. Also a brewery here. Rowing boat there and back in
2'/2 br.s. incl. stay; also steamboat on Sun. and holidays.
To S. Bkunardo and Bioorio (to the station of Taverne, 31/2-4 hrs.).
A cart-track on the fertile slopes to the N. of Lugano leads by Afassagno,
-S'rtwosa, Porza, and Comano to the (l'/2 hr.) church of S. Bernardo (2300'),
on a rocky plateau, with a picturesque view. (At the S.E. base of the
hill are the village of Canobbio and the chateau of Trevano ; see above.)
to Como. MONTE BOGLIA. lOS. Route. 425
Thence (at first following the top of the hill to the N. ; no path) to
Sala and the (I'/i hr.) monastery of Bigorio (23G0'; refreshmts.) , charm-
ingly situated on the wooded hill of that name. (The church contains
a Madonna attributed to Guercino or Perino del Vaga.) Back by (1 M.)
Ponte Capriaica (1425' ; with a church containing a good old copy of
Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper; best light 11-1) to the (IV2 M.) railway-
station of Taverne (p. 422).
*Monte Boglia (4960'; 4-41/2 hrs.), a hill visible from Lugano to the left
of Mte. Bre (guide desirable). Ascent by Soragno and the Alp Bolla or
from Bre (p. 424; steep). View little inferior to that from Mte. Generoso.
Descent on the E. side through the grassy Val Soldo to Castello and S.
Mamette (a steamboat-station ; p. 441) or Oria (p. 441).
Monte Camoghe (7303'; 7-8 hrs. from Lugano ; guide from Colla), a
famous point of view, is fatiguing. Road via Canobbio (p. 431) and Tes-
serete; then to the right into the Val Colla, to (12 M. ; carr. in 2'/2 hrs.)
Scareglia or Lower Colla (3205'; -Osteria Garzirola). We then (with guide)
ascend on foot by Colla and the Alp Pielrarossa, leaving the Mte. Gar-
zirola (see below) to the right, to the (3 hrs.) Alp Sertena (5922') and the
(l'/2 hr.) top, where we enjoy a striking panorama of the Alps from Mte.
Eosa to the Ortler. — The descent may be made to the N., by the Rivolle
and Levtno Alps, to the Val Movobbia, Giubiasco, and (5 hrs.) Bellinzona
(p. 107 ; ascent of the Camoghe from Bellinzona, 7-8 hrs.). — Monte Garzirola
(6942'), 3 hrs. from Colla, also repaying. — From the Val Colla an interesting
walk over the pass of S. Lucio (5961') to Porlez/a, or over the Cima deW
Arabione (5928'; fine view) to the Val Soldo (p. 441), or to the Val Soldo
by a path passing the curious dolomite pinnacles of the Denti di Vecchia.
Monte Tamaro (6433'; 4 hrs.; guide) from Taverne (p. 422) or Bironico
(p. 422), not difficult. Splendid view of Lago Maggiore, etc.
Val Magliasina. Beautiful drive by Agno (p. 440), Verncite, and Cade-
mavio to (8 M.) Breno (2106'; Ost. Ferrajo) ; back by JVovaggio and Magliaso
(p. 440). Pleasant walk from Breno over ilte. Leino (5312'; splendid view)
to 5-6 hrs.) Latino (p. 431); or back to Lugano via S. Bernardo (p. 424).
Circuit of Monte Salvatore (a drive of 2V2 hrs. ; carr. with one
horse 7, two horses 14 fr.). Road by (l'/-2 M.) Painbio, where there is a
monument by Vela to Capt. Carloni, and through the pretty Val Scairolo
to (3 M.) Figino, where we reach the W. arm of the lake. We then follow
the lake, rounding the Mte. Arbostora (p. 440), to (2 M.) Moreote and (3 M.)
Melide (see below). Thence to Lugano 4 M. more.
To the Grotto of Osteiw, see p. 441. Ascent of Mte. Generoso, p. 426.
From Lugano to Chiasso and Como (Milan). The train crosses
the Tasshio Valley, by means of a viaduct, 120' high (charming
view to the left), and passes through the Paradiso Tunnel (833 yds.)
under the N.E. spur of Monte S. Salvatore (p. 424). It then skirts
thelakc, with views (to the left) of the wooded slopes of the E.
bank and the villages upon it. Beyond (132 M.) Melide (Micheli's
Inn, good wine), the train and the road cross the lake to Bissone by
a stone viaduct 1/2 ^- long, which sadly mars the scenery. At each
end there is an arch for the passage of boats. To the right a pleasant
view of the lake, whicli branches into two bays (p. 440). Two tun-
nels. Then ( 134 M.) Maroij(jia (Elvezia), at the W. base of the Mte.
Generoso; continuous view of the lake on tlie right. 130'/.> Al. Ca-
polayo, at the top of the S.K. arm of tlie lake. — The train now
ascends the fertile valley of tlie Lnreyyio.
139 M. Mendrisio (1190'; pop. 2749; *H6t. Mendrhio, to the
right at the entrance to the town, li., L., & A. S'/o, D- i^k^^- i *An-
426 Route 108. MONTE GENEROSO.
yelo, ill the village, Italian, II. & A. l'/2 fr-,)) * small town '/.2 ^■
from the station.
The -Monte Oeneroso (5440'), ^t- Oionnero, or M. Calvaygione, the Rigi of
Italian Switzerland, is frequently ascended from Mendrisio (to the hotel 2Vr3
hrs. ; guides unnecessary; mules 6 fr. ; small vehicle to the top for one
person 10, there and back 16 fr. and fee; shade in the afternoon). We
ascend the broad high-road past the Albergo deir Angelo, then (1 M.)
follow the road to the left to the Wine-cellars of Salorino (the sharp angle
formed by the two roads may be cut off by following the steep foot-path). A
paved bridle-path ascends between the houses, and at a chapel with an
open portico, turns to the left (walkers may go through the village of Salo-
rino, to the right, and follow the telegraph-wires). The path, which is very
stony at places and paved at points where it is liable to be flooded by the
mountain-streams, is at other parts tolerable. After about 50 min. from Men-
drisio it enters a wooded dale (spring on the left), whence high up on tlic
mountain-slope in the background is seen the dairy of Caasina, ^ji JI. to
the E. of the hotel. In 1 hr. more the road crosses the stream (to the
right) and winds up among low forest to (l'/4 hr. more) the "Hotel du
Oiniroso (3965'; R., L., & A. 4-5, D. 5, pens, from 12 fr. ; post and telegr.
offices; English Church Service), the property of Dr. Pasta of Mendrisio.
The hotel (closed in winter), which is concealed until we are close upon
it, is situated on a mountain-terrace commanding a view towards the plain
of Lombardy. Rich flora. — Guide-posts to the N. of the hotel indicate the
paths to the (20 min.) 'Bellavista and to the summit of the Generoso. The
former is a mountain-spur immediately above Capolago, with a fine view
(best in the morning) of the Lake of Lugano and the surrounding hills,
and of the distant snow-peaks from the Gran Paradiso to the St. Gotthard.
— The path to the Generoso at first ascends in windings, then skirts several
spurs on the E. slope, and finally passes a small Chalet-Restaurant (5 beds),
to the (l'/2 hr.) summit. The 'View (Panorama at the hotel) embraces the
lakes of Lugano, Como, Varese, and Maggiore, the populous plains of Lom-
bardy, and the entire Alpine chain to the N., from Monte Viso to the Ber-
nina. Rich flora. — Monte Generoso may also be ascended from Maroggia
(p. 425) by Rovio (Hot. des Prealpes), or from Balerna (see below) by Mug-
gio in 4-4Va hrs. (roads to Kovio and Muggio, beyond which the ascent is
fatiguing). — From Lanzo iV Intelvi (bridle-path, 51/2 hrs.), see p. 441 (re-
commended for the return, 6 hrs. to Osteno). — A rack-and-pinion railway
irom Capolago (p. 425) to the hotel is to be opened in summer 1890.
The short Coldrerio Tunnel carries us through the watershed
between the Laveggio and the Breggia. 15 1/2 M. Balerna.
I6V2 M. CMasso (764'; *Rail. Restaur.) *Alb. S. Michele, by
the station), the last Swiss village (custom-house ; usually a long
halt). The line pierces the Monte Olimpino by means of a tunnel 3190
yds. long, and passes Borgo Vico, a suburb of Como, on the left.
20 M. Como (p. 448); thence to Milan, see R. 114.
109. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Val Maggia.
Railway to Locarno, 14 M., in 3/4 hr. (2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c).
The Val Maggia, 25 M. long, with its bold rock-scenery, its rich vege-
tation, and its pretty villages and grand waterfalls, deserves a visit,
particularly in spring or autumn. A good starting-point for excursions
is Bignasco (reached by diligence from Locarno twice daily in S'/a hrs.,
coupe 4 fr. 60 c. ; diligence from Bignasco to Fusio in summer daily in
3 hrs.). Carriage with one horse from Locarno to Bignasco 19. with two
horses 30 fr., back 16 and 26 fr. ; from Bignasco to Fusio and back 18 or 35 fr.
To (O'/o M.) Cadenazzo, see p. 421. The Locarno line diverges
to the right, and belovy (r.) Cugnasco crosses the Ticino. 10 M.
LOCARNO. W'J. Route. 427
(rordola , with productive vineyards , at tho. mouth of the Vol
Verzasca.
Val Verzasca. A road (diligence from Locarno to Sonogno daily in
41/2 hrs.) ascends the deep and picturesque valley, watered by the beauti-
ful Vei-zasca v^ith its countless falls. This stream and its tributaries
abound in fish and are often of an exquisite transparent green. The lover
of nature should descend into the ravine and explore some of the deli-
cious rocky pools. The road leads by (r.) Vo(/ori'o and (1.) ('orippo to
(8 M.) Lavertezzo (Inn) and (4 M.) Brione (2497'; Inn), the chief village
in the valley, at the mouth of Ihe Val d'Osola, through which a route
(with guide) leads to the Forcarella Cocco (7010'), the Val Cocco and
(8 hrs.) Bignasco (p. 428). Ascending to the K. through the main valley,
we ne.xt come to Gerra, Frasco, and (4Vj 31) Sonogno (2982' ; Inn), the
last village, where the valley again divides. Thence to the W. over the
Pasfo di Eedorta (7140'), between the Corona di Redorta and Mte. Zucchero,
to the Val Pertusio and (8 hrs.; guide) Prat 0 (p. 429), interesting. Another
attractive route leads to the N. by Cabione and the Alp Bedeglia to the
Passo di Laghetto (6920'), to the W. of the Cima Bianca ; it then descends
to the Alp del Lago (G046'), with its little lake ('laghetto") and through
the Val Chivonico to (8 hrs.) Giornico (p. 107). — Walkers desiring to
return from Brione to Locarno should cross the Verzasca 2 M. to the S.
of Lavertezzo and ascend on the right bank by Corippo to (IV4 hr.) Mer-
goscia, from which a road skirting a deep ravine and commanding fine
views leads by Contra to (IV2 hr.) Locarno.
The train crosses the brawling Verzasca and runs on the hank
of the Lago Maggiore to —
14 M. Locarno. — 'Grand Hotel Locarno, with garden, view of
the lake, and English Chapel, R., L., & A. 41/2-6, lunch 3, D. 5 fr. ; *H6t.-
Pens. Rebee, with garden on the lake, moderate, pens. 6-7 fr. ; *Corona,
on the lake, R., L., <Sr A. 4, B. li/2fr. ; *H6t. Suisse, in the chief piazza,
moderate; Pens. Villa Righetti, on the way to the Madonna; Albeugo
S. 60TTAKD0 ; furnished rooms at Giul. Borghetti's. — Rail. Restaurant.
Locarno (680'; pop. 2814, Rom. Cath.), a busy little town of
thoroughly Italian character, is beautifully situated on the Lago
Maggiore at the mouth of the Maggia. Since 1513 it has belonged
to Switzerland. In the 15th cent, the town Is said to have contained
5000 inhab ; but by an intolerant decree in 1553 several of the
most industrious Protestant families were banished for refusing to
conform to the Rom. Cath. ritual. A number of these (the Orelli,
Muralto, and others) repaired to Ziirich, where they founded the
silk-manufactories which still flourish. Fine view from the *Ma-
donna del Sasso (1168'), a pilgrimage-church with its attendant
oratories on a wooded rock above the town f'/o tr. ; steep paved
path, with the 'stations'). The church contains an *Entombment
by Ciseri. The view from Mte. delta Trinit(1, 10 min. higher up, is
still more picturesque. The chapel contains a marble group of the
Resurrection by Rossi.
At the market held at Locarno on alternate Thursdays the
picturesque costumes of the neighbouring peasantry are seen to
advantage. The greatest gala-day is 8th Sept., the Nativity of
the Virgin.
Steamboats on the Lago Maggiore, see R. 110.
Walks. Pleasant walks mav be taken to the W. via Solduno to the
(3 M.) Ponle Bvolla (p. 428); to the S.W. via the bridge over the Mag-
428 Route lO'J. lUGNASCO. Val
gia ti) (2 M.) Losow'.^ with cool wine cellars (wine good and cheap), or to
(2'/2 M.) Ascona (p. 431), and thence along the hank of the Lago Maggiorc to
Ronco and (6 M.) BHssago (p. 431); to the E. to {i>/i'!IL.) Miimsio and into
the (3/4 M.) romantic Navegna Gorge, with a chalyheate spring; to the N.
to the mountain villages of Orsolina and Brione (each 3 31.), with charm-
ing views; or to (6 M.) Mergoscia in the Val Venasca (p. 427), etc.
From Locarno to Domo d'Ossola, 11 hrs., a beautiful route, but
rough and fatiguing at places, through the Val Centovalli and the Val
di Vigezzo. Road to Losone and (4 M.) Intragna (1300'; Inn), pictur-
esquely situated at the confluence of the Meleza and the Onsernone. Then
a bad path on the left bank of the Meleza by (2^1-2 hrs.) Borgnone (2316';
Inn) to ('/4 hr.) Camedo, the last Swiss village, and across the Italian
frontier to (l'/2 hr.) Ri (Inn), a resort of pilgrims. Road thence by (3 31.)
Malesco (Leon dM)ro), where the new road from the Val Cannobbina joins
ours on the left (p. 431), to S. Maria Maggiore (2713'; ""Croce di Malta),
the capital of the Val Vigezzo, and (10 31.) Domo d'Ossola (p. 301).
Val Onsernone. Road (diligences from Locarno to Comologno and
Vergeletto daily in 3'/2 hrs.) across the Ponte Brolla (see below) to (l>/2 31.)
Cavigliano , where a road to Intragna (see above) diverges to the left.
We then ascend to the N.W., through the picturesque Val Onsernone, in
numerous windings to Loco (Inn) and (6'/2 M.) Russo (263S'), where the
valley divides. The road bends into the W. branch of the valley and at
the picturesque Po7ite Oscuro, where the road to Vergeletto diverges to the
right, it turns and ascends the S. branch past Crana to (l'/2 hr.) Comologno
(3503'; no tolerable inn). From ('/i hr.) Spruga, where the road stops,
a bridle-path crosses the Italian frontier to the (l'/4 M.) rustic Bagni di
Craveggia, with a sulphur-spring, whence an easy route crosses the
Bocchetta di S. Antonio to (5 hrs.) .S'. Maria Maggiore (see above). — In
the N. branch of the valley, 3 M. from Russo, lies Vergeletto (2990'; *Osteria
Domenigone). Thence to Cimalmotto (see below) over the Passo di Por-
careccio, or to Cevio by the Lago di Alzasca, interesting (with guide).
Val Maggia. Tlie road leads on the left bank of the Maggia,
with its numerous falls, past the picturesque (3 M.) Ponte Brolla
(820'; route to the Val Onsernone, see above), to Aveyno, where the
snow-covered summit of the Basodino is visible for a short time,
and (472 M.) Maggia (1138'), a considerable village. To the right
is the fine Cascatd della Pozzaccia. Then by Coglio, Ciiumaglio,
Someo (Osteria al Ponte ; Ristor. del Soladino), with its handsome
houses, and Riveo (passing the beautiful *Soladino Fall, 330' high,
on the left) to Visletto, at the foot of massive cliffs, and over the
Maggia to (T'/o M.) Cevio (1380'; Ristor. del Basodino, with a few
rooms; Ristor. della Posta^, the capital of the valley (514 inhab.),
with line groups of trees and an interesting church, at the mouth
of the Val Rovana.
The steep Val Rovana divides at {3V2 31.) Collognasca (2640) into (1.)
the Val di Campo and (r.) the Val di Bosco. In the former lie (3V2 M.)
Campo (4430'; Inn) and (I1/4 M.) Cimalmotlu (Inn), the church of which
has a porch with interesting frescoes. Thence over the Porcareccio Pass
to Vergeletto, sec above; over the Passo di Bosa (7405') and through the
Val Isorno to (6 hrs.) Crevola, easy; over the Passo di Oraverola (Scatla
del Forno, 3290') to Premia, or over the Passo della Scatta (8420') and the
Ptisso di Cornelia to Crodo in the Val Anligorio (p. 30S), t)oth easy (guide).
— In the Val di Bosco, 5 31. from Collognasca, lies Bosco (4930'; Inn),
called also Crin or Gurin, the only (!erman village in Canton 'Ticino.
Thence over the Criner Fiirka to the Val Formazza, see p. 30S.
11/4 M. (18 M. from Locarno) Bignasco (1424'; *Hot. du Glacier,
II., L., & A. 21/2-3, D. 31/2, B. IV4, pens. 5 fr.), is charmingly
Maggia. FUSIO. JHU. Route. 429
situated at tlio iiioiitli of tlic Val Bavona , ;iiicl is well adaptcil for a
stay of some time. About '/o M. to the S.E. is tlie pretty Waterfall
of Bignasco, known as the 'Piccolo Niagara'.
Pleasant walk to the p/4 hr.) Madonna di. Monte (2360'), a fine point of
view (ascend to the left after crossing the Maggia below the hotel). Beyond
the chapel we proceed still farther into the valley, passing several chalets
and ascending on the other side of the brook to (20 min.) the Incino Alp,
whence we descend again by a fine waterfall (Barjni di JVerone) to (40 min.)
Bignasco. — We may also follow the Fusio road (guide post) to the ('A M-)
I'ontelotto, and return on the left bank of the Maggia. — Other walks to
Brontallo and (3 M.) Menzonio (2380'; fine view); to Cevio and the (3 M.)
Cascata di Soladino (p. 428); to (3 hrs.) S. Carlo, (S'/z hrs.) Fusio, etc.
(see below).
Through the Val Bavona to the (10 hrs.) Tosa Falls, or to (11 hrs.)
AiROLO, Through the picturesque 'Val Bavona, which opens to the N.W.
of Bignasco, a road shaded by walnut and chestnut trees, leads by Caverr/no,
Fontana, Foroglio (with a fine waterfall), Fonlanella, and Sonlerto to (3 hrs.)
»S'. Carlo (315U'; *Albergo Basodino, unpretending), %vlienee the Basodino
(10,748') may be ascended with guide (G. Padovani) in 5-6 hrs. (trying,
but not dangerous; descent to Auf der Frut, see p. 307). From S. Carlo
we ascend rapidly via Campo, with guide, to the (2V2 hrs.) Alp Robiei (6566';
accommodation) and to the W. through the Val Fiorina to the (3 hrs.)
Bocchetta di Valmaygia (8707') and (2V2 hrs.) Auf der Frut (p. 307). —
Travellers bound for Airolo, instead of crossing the bridge leading to
the Alp Eobioi, follow the left bank of the stream (with guide) and ascend
bv the Alp Lieipe and Pioda^ past the little Lago Sciundrau (7720'), to the
(5' hrs.) Crisiallina Fuvca (8474), to the W. of Fiz Criflallina (9547') ; then
descend over a patch of snow into the Val Tovta and through the Val
Crisiallina to Ossasco (p. 303) and (3 hrs.) Airolo (p. 105).
The road in the Val Maggia, called Val Broglio above this point,
next leads to Broglio and (4'/2 M.) Prato (2460' ; Inn. rustic), at
the mouth of the Val Prato, which ascends to the E. to the Campo
Tencia. (Over the Eedorta Pass to the Val Verzasca, see p. 427.)
The Campo Tencia (10,(24'; 8-9 hrs. from Prato; with guide), a
magnificent point of view, is trying. Through the Val Prato to the
highest chalets of the Corte di Campo Tencia (7250') 5 hrs.; then, on the
E. side, up the crest of the Crozlina Glacier to the (3-4 hrs.) summit.
Experts mav descend across the glacier to the E. to the Alp Crozlina and
by Dalpe to" Faido (p. 106).
At (11/4 M.) Peccia (2785'; Inn, rustic) the Val Peccia opens
to the left, with the Poncione di Braga (9405') in the background.
The highest portion of the Val Maggia is named the Val Laiuzzara
from the 'lavezzo' stone found there. The road ascends in many
windings (short-cuts for walkers) to the flat upper part of the valley,
crosses (4 M.) the wild gorge of the Maggia, and leads past (right),
Mogno, still ascending in windings (shorter footpath to the right)
to (2 M.) Fusio (4202'; *H6t. Dazio), the last village in the Val
Maggia, most picturesquely situated.
A picturesque walk may be taken, among wood, from Fusio to (I'/i' M.)
the pretty hamlet of Samhticco (4485'), with a line waterfall. — Easy I'.Tsses
frcim Fusio (with guide): to the >f. hy Sambucco, Corte, and the Sassello
Pass (7697') to (5i/-.. hrs.) Airolo; to the W. over the Passo di Naret (3015')
and past the small lake of the same name, to (7 hrs.) Ossasco in the Val
lUdretto; to the N.E. by Colla and the Alp Pianascio to the (2V'i-3 hrs,)
Campolungo Pass (7595'; fine view); descent either to the right by the
Alp Cadonighino and Da'pe (see above) to (3 hrs.) Faido (p. 106), or to the
left past the little Lagv Tremorgio (5997' to the (2 hrs.) station of Rodi-
Fiesso (p. 106).
430
110. Lago Maggiore.
Railways. — From Bellinzona to Locakno, 14 M., in 'Vi hr. (fares
2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c); see p. 426. Through -tickets including the
steamboat on Lago Maggiore are issued for Pallanza (5 fr. 90, 5 fr. 20,
3 fr. 15 c), etc.
From Bellinzona to Kovara via Luino, 67 M., in 4-5 hrs. (fares 12 fr.,
8 fr. 46 c, 6 fr.); to Llino in IV1-IV2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 10 c).
— Intermediate stations: 2V2 M. Giubiascu; 57-2 M. Cadenrizzo; W/2 M.
Magadino; 12'/2 M. S. Nazzaro; 14''2M. Ranzo-Gein; 17 M. Pino, the first
Italian station; 21 M. Maccagno ; 26 M. Luino, with both the Italian and
the Swiss custom-houses; 29 M Pcrto Valtravaglia; 34 M. Laveno ; 36'/2 M.
Legginno- Moiivalle; 40'/2 M. Ispra ; 43'/2 M. Taino-Angera; 47 M. Seslo-
Calende (see Baedeker''s Northern Italy).
From Luino to Lugano, see pp. 440, 441 ; from Laveno to Varese, see
p. 449.
Steamboat twice daily in summer from Locarno to Laveno, and seven
Or eight times daily from Laveno to Intra, Pallanza, the Borromcan Is-
lands, Stresa and Arona. From Locarno to Arona 5V2 hrs., from Luino to
Isola Bella 2^4 (from Laveno l'/4) hrs.; from Isola Bella to Arona l'/4 hr.
(fare from Locarno to Arona 5 fr. 85 or 3 fr. 20 c, from Luino to Isola Bella
2 fr. 15 or 1 fr. 30 c, from Isola Bella to Arona 1 fr. 70 c. or 1 fr., landing
and embarking included). The steamboat is the best and cheapest convey-
ance to Isola Bella. Strict punctuality is not always observed. Some of
the boats are saloon-steamers , with restaurants on board. — Stations
(those in Italics not always touched at): Locarno, Magadino, .^sco«a (small
boat stat.) , Gera, Brissago, Cannobbio, Maccagno, Luino, Camiero, Oggeb-
hio, Ghiffa (small boat stat.), Porto Valtravaglia, Laveno, Intra, Pallanza,
Suna (small boat stat.), Feriolo (small boat stat.), Baveno, Isola Superiore,
Isola Bella, Stresa, Belgirate, Lesa, Meina, Angera, Arona. — Travellers
who are not pressed for time should go to Locarno only by railway, and
take the steamer thence to Pallanza, the Borromean Islands, Baveno, Stresa,
and Arona. (Custom-house examination on board.)
Boat (barca). For 2 hrs., 2V2 fr. for each rower; for 1-3 pers. 2 rowers
are required; 4-6 pers. 3, more than 6 pers. 4 rowers. More favourable
terms may sometimes be obtained, and in every case a bargain should be
struck before the boat is entered. A small fee is usually expected in ad-
dition to the stipulated fare (comp. p. 442).
The *Lago Maggiore [646', greatest depth 2800'), the Lacus
Verbanus of the Romans, is about 37 M. long, and averages l'/2"3M.
in width. The N. end for a distance of 9 M., sometimes called the
Lake of Locarno, belongs to Canton Ticino. The W. bank beyond
the brook Valmara, and the E. bank from the Dirinella belong to
Italy. The chief tributaries of the lake are on the N. the Ticino and
the Maggia, and on the W. the Tosa. The river emerging from the
S. end retains the name of Ticino. At the N. end the lake is en-
closed by lofty mountains, for the most part wooded. The W. bank
presents a series of charming landscapes, while the E. bank towards
the lower end slopes gradually down to the plains of Lombardy.
The water is green in its N. arm, and deep blue at the S. end.
The names of the stations are printed below in bolder type, but
all of them are not always touched at by the steamers (see above).
Locarno, see p. 427. Opposite, at tlie mouth of the Ticino, lies
Magadino (railway-station; Hot. Bellevue, on the lake), consisting
of two villages, Magadino Inferiore and Superiore.
To the S. of Locarno, where the deposits of the Maggia have
3 au« I ^ .- !5 -J K n '•<?. S- ^. ''^M%-'%n
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lpaipill.
T,UINO. 7 70. Route. 431
formed a large delta, the Val Maggia (p. 428) opens, witli its num-
erous villages. Farther on the W. bank is covered with villages,
country-houses, and campanili. The road from Locarno to Intra runs
close to the lake. In an angle lies Ascona, with a ruined castle and
several attractive villas; then llonco, higher up the bank. Passing
the two small Isole de Brissago the steamer reaches Gera (railway-
station) on the E. bank ; and then, on the W. bank, Brissago (Hot.
Suisse), a delightful spot, with picturesque white houses, and a fine
group of cypress-trees near the church. The slopes above are covered
with flg-trees, olives, and pomegranates ; even the myrtle flourishes
in the open air. Brissago is the last Swiss station. The Italian
custom-house examination is made on board the steamer.
Opposite Brissago, on the E. bank, lies the Italian village of
Pino (railway-station).
The next Italian villages are S. Agata and Cannohbio [Hot.
Cannobbio, on the lake, R. 1V2~3, pens. 6 fr. ; Albergo delle Aipi,
moderate; *Pens. Villa Badia, IY4M. to the N., pens. 6-7 fr.). The
latter (pop. 2600), one of the oldest and most important places on
the lake, lies at the entrance of the Val Cannobbina, and is over-
shadowed by wooded mountains. The church Delia Field, the dome
of which is attributed to Bramante, contains a Bearing of the Cross
by Gaud. Ferrari.
Pleasant walk (also omnibus) up the picturesque Val Cannobbina to
{i^/iM.) La Salute (hydropathic), and to the (20 min.) Orrido, a wild rocky
scene, where there is a waterfall in spring (best viewed from a boat, 1 fr.).
— A new road ascends the beautiful valley, frequently crossing the river,
and passing the villages of Spoccia ((Jsteria Americana on the road-side),
Oi'asso, Cursolo, and Guiro on the heights on each side. It then crosses
a low hill to Finero (Inn) and Malesco in the Val Vigezzo and descends to
(19 M.) 8. Maria Maggiore (p. 423). One-horae carriage from Cannobbio to
S. Maria in 5 hrs., 15 fr., two-horse carr. 25 fr.
The steamer now steers to the E. bank, and stops at Maccagno
(railway-station; Alb. della Torre}, with a picturesque church and
an ancient tower, whence we may visit the (2 hrs.) loftily situated
Logo d'Eglio (2950'; *Hotel; fine view). The viaducts and tunnels
of the St. Gotthard Railway are now seen skirting the lake. Passing
Casneda in a wooded ravine, we next reach —
Luino (railway-station). — The Steamboat Piiiu adjoins the small
station of the Steam Tramway to Ponle Tresa (Lugano ; see p. 440). K y
passing to the left of this station and the statue of Garibaldi and following
the wide new 'Via Principe di Napoli' we reach the (10 min.) Stazionk In-
TEKNAZIONALE, the Station of the Bellinzona and Genoa line where the
Italian and Swiss custom-house examinations take place ('Restaurant,
lunch 3 fr.).
Hotels. *Gr.4nd Hotel Simplon, on the lake, to the S. of the town,
with a garden; Hotel de la Poste, R., L., & A. 5 fr. ; Vittoria, well
spoken of, these two near the steamboat-pier. — Near the Stazione Inter-
nazionale : Terminus Hotel, belonging to the keeper of the railway-restau-
rant; MiLANO, dej. 2, I). 3 fr.; Ancora.
Luino or Luvino,a. busy little town with 2800inhab., is situat-
ed at the base and on the slopes of the mountain, a little to the N.
432 Route no. LAVENO. Lago
of the mouth of the Tresa. It affords good headquarters for a pro-
longed stay on account of its ample railway and steamer facilities.
The Statue of Garibaldi, near the pier, commemorates his brave hut
futile attempt to continue the contest here with his devoted guerilla
band after the conclusion of the armistice between Piedmont and
Austria on Aug. 15th, 1848. The principal Ckurch is adorned with
frescoes by Bernardino Luini, a native of the place (c. 1470-1530).
At the mouth of the Margorahbia, '/2 M. to the S., lies Oermig-
naga, with the large silli-spinning (fiUmda) and winding (/ilatoja)
factories of E. Stehli-Hirt of Zurich. (Admission by application to
Mr. Bodmer, the manager.)
Near the W. bank, on rocks rising from the lake, are the two
grotesque-looking Castelli di Cannero, half in ruins, the property
of Count Borromeo. In the 15th cent, they harboured the live brotli-
ers Mazzarda, notorious brigands, the terror of the district. Cannero
(Tre Re) is beautifully situated amidst vineyards and orchards. We
next pass Oggebbio and Ghiffa (Hot. Ghiffa) on the W. bank, and
Porto Valtravaglia (railway-station ; Osteria AntirM)on the E. bank,
villages at which the steamers do not always stop. In a wooded bay
lies Calde, with the old tower of Castello di Calde on a hill. Between
Ghiffa and Laveno Monte Rosa and the Simplon group are visible to
the W.
Laveno (railway-station; Posla, well spoken of; Moro^, a large
village, beautifully situated in a bay at the mouth of the Boesio, once
a fortified Austrian harbour. Superb view of the lake and the moun-
tains from the ruinous fort on a headland I'/.i ^- to the S.W. —
St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 430,
At the back of Laveno rises the green Sasso del Ferro (3485'}, the most
beautiful mountain on the lake, easily ascended in 2'/2 hrs., and allording
a magnificent view of the lake, the plain as far as Milan, and the huge
snow-peaks of the Monte Rosa chain. Even from the neighbourhood of
Laveno the five-peaked Monte Rosa is visible beyond the hills of the
opposite bank. — Interesting excursion to the monastery of S. Caterina
del Sasso, l'/4 hr. to the S. of Laveno, high above the lake. Imbedded in
the roof of the church is a mass of rock which fell upon it in the last
century and has remained there ever since.
Railway from Laveno by Varese to Conio, see p. 449. — From Laveno
to the Borromean Islands and Pallanza (p. 433), boat with 3 rowers,
10-12 fr. To Isola Bella IV2 hr., thence to Isola Madre 20 min., Pallanza
20 min.
From Laveno to Milan, 45 M., railway in 21/2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 30, 5 fi'.
80, 4 fr. 20 c). — 2V2 M. S. Giano. The line diverges to the left from
the line to Sesto (to the right is Monvalle, see below), and passes through
a tunnel, to (5 M.) Besozzo. 10 M. Ternale-Yarano, on the lovely Lago di
Comabbio. Beyond a long tunnel (13'/2 M.) Grugnola-Cinibro, and (16'/2 JI)
Besnate. — 20 M. Gallarate. Thence to (45 M.) Milan, see p. 436.
As we approach Intra a valley opening to the W. discloses a
most striking survey of the N. neighbours of Monte Rosa : first the
Strahlhorn , then the Mischabelhorner and the Simplon. They are
lost to view as the steamer rounds the point between Intra and Pal-
lanza, but soon re -appear, and remain visible until we reach Is(da
Maggiore. PALLANZA. 110. Route. 433
Bella. To the left appears the blunt cone of Mte. Motterone, with
the hotel near the top and the quarries at Baveno.
Intra (*H6t. de la Viile ^' Poste, and the Vitello <f Leon d'Oro,
united, R. & A.2'/2-3'/2) B- 1 V4 fr. ; Hot. Intra; Agnello), a town of
5700 inhab., with several factories, chiefly belonging to Swiss Arms.
It lies on alluvial soil between the mouths of two torrents, the S.
Giovanni and S. Bernardino (see below). On the quay is a marble
statue of Capt. Simonetta. — On the lake, ^/^ M. to the N. , is the
* Villa Franzosini, with beautiful gardens containing magnificent ca-
mellias and magnolias, and 3/^ M. beyond it is the * Villa Ada of
Sign. Ceriani, also noteworthy for its wealth of vegetation (numer-
ous palms, huge eucalypti, etc.). On the promontory of Castagnola
(see below), ll/.j M. to the S., is the Villa S. Remigio, the residence
of the Browne family (visitors admitted ; *View from the balcony).
Pleasant walk from Intra to the N. by the new road (shaded short-
cuts for walkers), via Arizzano to &k M.) Bee (1935' ; ~Alh. Bee), with a
fine view of Lago Maggiore, and to (3 M.) Premeno (2600'; '361. -Pens. Pre-
raeno, finely situated). Above it (10 min.) is the Tornico, a platform laid
out in honour of Garibaldi, with a good spring and a beautiful view of
(heAlps. A few min. higher is the Bellavista, an admirable point of view,
commanding the lake to the E. and the beautiful and fertile Val Intragna
to the W., with its numerous villages.
To the S. of Intra the Punta delta Castagnola, with its wealth
of luxuriant vegetation , stretches far into the lake. The Hotel
Oaroni (see below), finely situated on the Punta, lies I'/o M. from
Intra, and l/o M- from Pallanza. At the foot of the hill is the Bir-
reria della Castagnola. The little Isola S. Giovanni, near Pallanza,
with its chapel, house, and gardens, is one of the Borromean Islands.
Pallanza. — "Grand Hotel Pali-anza, a large house, finely situated,
'/2 M. from the landing-place, with several dependances and the Villa
Montebello, R., L., & A. 4-5, B. li^, D. 5, warm bath 2^2, lake-bath iV'j,
board in summer 7V2-12V2, in winter T-lO'/a fr- — *H6t. Garoni, "2 M.
to the S.E., splendidly situated on the Punta della Castagnola (see above),
with grounds (Engl, landlady), pens. 7-12 fr. — 'Posta, on (he lake (Engl,
landlady), R., L., & A. 3, B. I1/4. D. 4, pens. 5-8 fr. ; Hot. Milan, also on
the lake, R. 2, D. incl. wine 3V2fr. ; Italia; S. Gottardo; 'Pens. Villa
Maggiore, pens. incl. wine 5'/2-T fr., L. & A. extra.
Diligence to Gravellona, 4 times daily, see pp. 293, 302; the Hotel
Pallanza also sends a private omnibus (IV2 fr.).
Boats. With one rower to Isola Madre and back 2V2, with two 4'/2 fr. ;
to Isola Bella and back 3'/2 or 6 fr. ; to both islands and back 4 or 7 fr. ;
to Stresa and back 31/2 or 6 fr. ; to Laveno and back 3V2 or 7 fr., etc. ; boat
without rower usually 1 fr. per hour. The hirer should ascertain the charge
before embarking. The hotels have boats of their own at similar charges.
Pallanza, a busy town with 3200 inhab., is beautifully situated
opposite the Borromean Islands and commands a fine view. The
quay, planted with trees, affords a pleasant walk. Some of the nursery-
gardens here (Rovelli, Cerutti, etc.) are worthy of a visit.
Interesting walk by the shady avenue of chestnut-trees leading to the
Madonna di Campagna; by the church to the right round the Monte Rosso,
(7220'), and up the left bank of the S. Bernardino, to the picturesque
bridge of Santino and the ancient Roman bridge between Cossogno (Inn,
good wine) and Rovegro (2 hrs.), whence we may return to Pallanza by
Bieno, Cavandone, and Stina.
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 28
4Z4: Route 110. ISOTA BELLA. Lago
The lake here forms a large bay, towards the W., into which
falls the impetuous Tosa or Toce. On the N.E. bank lies Suna
(*Pens. Camenisch ; Alb. Pesce), and on the S.W. bank Feriolo. —
Farther on is —
BavenO. — 'Grand Hotel Bellevue, well managed, with fine garden
on the lake, E., L., & A. 5-7, D. 5 fr. ; *Grand Hotel Baveno, a large
house below the Villa Clara; *Beaueivage, with garden; "'Hot. -Pens.
Suisse, R. from IV2, B. 1, lunch 2, D, 3, pens, from 5 fr. — Diligence to
Oravellona, twice daily, see p. 301.
Boats to the Borromean Islands, same charges as from Slresa (p. 435).
Halfway between Baveno and Strcsa is a ferry, where the charge for the
short crossing (10 min.) is 1-2 fr.
Baveno is a little town of 2000 inhab., known for its large gra"
nite quarries which furnished the material for some of the column
in Milan cathedral, the church of S. Paolo Fuori le Mura at Rom^
and other buildings. It is well adapted for a stay of some time. Mr.
Henfrey's handsome Villa Clara was occupied by Queen Victoria
for three weeks in April, 1879, and for a month by the invalid
Crown Prince of Germany in Oct. -Nov. 1887 (visitors admitted to
the beautiful garden and the church on showing their visiting-cards).
The steamer now approaches the —
*Borromean Islands, and touches (on some trips only) at the
westernmost, the Isola Superiore or dei Pescatori, and then (always)
at the Isola Bella., the southernmost, which, with the Isola Madre,
belongs to the Borromeo family. — Farther N. is the Isola S. Gio-
vanni^ near Pallanza , already mentioned (p. 433). The scenery
around the Borromean Islands rivals that of the Lake of Como in
grandeur, and perhaps surpasses it in richness. Visitors are ad-
mitted to these two islands after 9 a.m. ; during the presence of the
family not after 6 p.m.
In the splendour-loving, but tasteless 17th cent., Count Vitaliano
Borromeo (d. 1690) erected a large chateau on ^sola Bella , and
converted the barren rock into beautiful gardens, rising on ten
terraces 100' above the lake, and displaying all the wealth of Italian
vegetation : lemon-trees, cedars, magnolias, cypresses, orange-trees,
laurels , magnificent camellias and oleanders , etc. (evening light
best for the beautiful view). The grounds are disfigured with shell-
grottoes, fountains (dry), mosaics, and statues in the style of the
period. Travellers from the north cannot fail to be struck with the
loveliness of the banks, studded with innumerable dwellings, and
clothed with luxuriant vegetation (chestnuts, mulberries, vines,
figs, olives), and of the deep - blue lake, enhanced by the snow-
mountains in the background. The uninteresting Chateau, which
is much too large for the island, contains a large Collection of Pictures
of little value. The N. wing is unfinished. The view through the
arches of the long galleries under the chateau is curious. A servant
attends visitors in the chateau (fee 50 c, 1 fr. for a party), and the
well-informed gardener shows the grounds for a similar fee. Ad-
joining the chateau are the *Hot. du Dauphin or Delfino (R., L.,
Maggiore. ARONA. 110. Route. 435
& A. 3, D. 4, pens. 7 fr.), and the Ristor. del Vapore. Boat to
Isola Madre and back with two rowers 3 fr.
The *Isola Madre is on its S. side similar to the Isola Bella,
being laid out in seven terraces, with lemon and orange-trellises.
On the highest terrace is a dilapidated Palazzo, with a beautiful
view. On the N. side are delightful grounds, with luxuriant vege-
tation. — The Isola dei Pescatori or Superiore (Osteria Verbano)
is also worth visiting for the sake of the picturesque views it com-
mands. The island is entirely occupied by a ilshing-village, a place
for drying the nets, a small avenue, and the churchyard being the
only open spaces.
Opposite Isola Bella, on the W. bank lies —
Stresa. — *Hotel des Iles BoRROMfiEs, V2 M. from the landing-place,
comfortable, with fine garden, R., L., & A. from 4, B. I'/i, I>- 5, board
71/2 fr. ; *H6tel Milan, with a small garden on the lake, near the pier, R.,
L., & A. 4-5'/2, D. 5, pens. 6-7 fr. (R. extra); Albergo Reale Bolongaro,
on the lake; Italia & Pension Suisse, R., L., & A. from 2'|2, pens, from
6 fr. ; Alb. S. Gottardo, R. from IV2, pens. 5-6 fr. ; these three second-
class, but very fair.
Boat (barca) with one rower 2 fr. for the first hour, and 50 c. for each
additional half-hour (comp. p. 430).
Diligence to Gravellona, twice daily, see pp. 293, 301.
The handsome Rosminian Monastery (875'), halfway up the
hill to the S. of the town, is now a school. The church contains the
monument of Ant. Rosmini (d. 1855), with an admirable statue by
Vela. Beautiful cypresses in the churchyard. Among the villas in
the environs are the Duchess of Genoa s Villa, by the church, the
Villa Landriani, Lomellini, Amalia, Baisini, and Imperatori. Above
the lake, 72 M. to the S., are the beautifully situated Villa Palla-
vicino, and I/4 M. farther the Villa Vignolo, with line gardens (visi-
tors admitted). — Ascent of * Monte Motterone, see p. 43B.
As the steamer proceeds we obtain a good view of the skilfully
constructed high-road, supported at places by walls of masonry.
The banks become flatter; to the W. appears Monte Rosa. The next
place on the W. bank is Belgirate (*0r. Hot. Belgirate ; 700 inhab.),
with the villas Fontana, Principessa Matilda, etc. Then Lesa and
Meina (Alb. Zanetta) on the W., and Angara on the E. bank, with
a handsome chateau of Count Borromeo.
Arona (738'; pop. 3700; * Albergo Reale d Italia <S' Posta; *Alb.
S. Gottardo, moderate, both on the quay; Ancora, behind the
S. Gottardo; Caffe della Stazione; Cafe next the Alb. Reale;
Cafe du Lac, at the harbour), an old town on the W. bank of
the lake, about 3 M. from its S. end, extends up the slope of the
hill. In the principal church, <?. Maria, is the chapel of the Bor-
romeo family, to the right of the high-altar, containing an *Altar-
piece, the Holy Family , by Gaudenzio Vinci (or Gaud. Ferrari?}
of 1511.
On a commanding height ^/o hr. to the N., is a colossal Statue
of S. Carlo, 70' high, resting on a pedestal 43' high, erected in
28*
436 Route 111. MONTE MOTTERONE.
1697 in honour of the famous cardinal , Count Carlo Borromeo,
Archbishop of Milan, who was born here in 1538 (d. 1584, canonis-
ed 1610).
The head, hands , and feet of the statue are of bronze , the robe of
wrought copper. Notwithstanding its enormous dimensions, the statue is
not without artistic merit , though the ears arc too large. The various
parts are held together by iron cramps attached to a pillar of masonry
in the inferior. Ascent in the interior disagreeable. Boom in the head
for three persons. For a ladder to reach the entrance S'/zfr. are demanded.
Relics of S. Carlo are preserved in the neighbouring Church,
near which is a large Seminary for Priests.
The Railway from Arona to Milan (42 M., in 2'A-2V2 brs. ; 7 fr. 65,
fr. 35, 3 fr. 85 c.) runs round the S. end of the lake and crosses the Ticino,
the boundary between Piedmont and Lombardy (down to 1859 the frontier
of Austria and Italy), to Sesto-Calende ; then Vergiate^ Somma, and (17 51.)
Gallarate (where the lines to Varese and Laveno diverge, pp. 449, 432),
a town of 5200 inhab. at the S.E. base of a chain of hills, and at the be-
ginning of the great fertile plain of Lombardy, where maize, mulberries,
and vines flourish luxuriantly. Stations Biisto-Arsizio, Legnano, Farabiago,
Rhb, Musocco. — 42 M. Milan, see p. 450.
111. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo.
Comp. Map, p. 430.
IV'J Days. 1st Day : From Stresa over the Mte. Motterone to Orla,
7-8 hrs. — 2nd Day: From Orta to Varallo 41/2 bra. — From Varallo good
walkers may cross one of the passes (p. 439) to the Val Anzasca or ascend
the Val Sesia to Alayna and there begin the magnificent expedition described
in R. 87. — Carriage and pair from Stresa by Gravellona to Orta, with
stay, 30 fr.
The Lago Maggiore is separated from the Lake of Orta by a
long hill, the Mte. Margotzolo or Mergozzolo, which may be crossed
by a pleasant route from Stresa to Orta in 5-6 hrs. : road to (6 M.)
Gignese (2525'; Albergo Alpino, line view), whence the Mte,.
Motterone may be ascended in 2 hrs. ; thence with a guide (2-3 fr.)
to Coiro in 2 hrs. ; descent from Coiro by a path, easily found, to
Armeno in 3/^ hr. ; road thence to (41/2 M.) Orta (p. 437). Farther to
the N., this hill culminates in the *Monte Motterone or Mottarone
(4892'), a magnificent point of view, easily ascended from Stresa or
iiavenoin3'/2-4hrs. (guideSfr., unnecessary; donkey with attendant
5fr.). The route from Baveno leads by liomanico, Loita, AndCampino,
mostly through wood to Someraro, where it joins the route from Stresa.
The latter diverges to the left opposite Isola Bella, beyond a bridge
over the broad channel of the Roddo, and ascends through wood to
the villages of (3/4hr.) Someraro (1500') and (25 min.)Le(;o(1915').
We emerge from the wood 1/2 hr. farther on, and ascend over past-
ures (with the hotel in sight in front of us) past the Alpe Giardino
to the (1 hr.) chapel of S. Eurosia (3685'), without a tower, where
we turn to the right. 20 min. Alpe del Mottarone (milk), 30 min,
* Albergo Mottarone, kept by the brothers Guglielmina , 10 min.
below the summit (4675' ; R., L., & A. 3, B. IV2, !>• 3^4- pens.
incl. wine, 9 fr.).
ORTA. ///. Route. 437
The '^ViEW from the top, the 'Rigi of Northern Italy', embraces the
Alps from the Col di Tenda and Monte Viso on the W., to the Ortler and
Adamello on the E. (Panorama by Bossoli, in the hotel). The most conspi-
cuous feature is the Mte. Rosa group; to the right of it appear the Cima di
Jazzi, Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn, Allalinhorn, Alphubel, Mischabel (Tasch-
horn, Dom, Nadelhorn), Pizzo Bdttarello, Portjengrat, Bietschhorn, Mte.
Leone, Jungfrau, Helsenhorn, Fiescherhurner; then more distant, to the
E. of the peaks of Bite. Zeda, the mountains of the Rhine valley, Ber-
nina, Uisgrazia, Mte. Legnone, Mte. Generoso, Mte. Grigna. At our feet
lie seven lakes, those of Orta, Mergozzo, Maggiore, Biandrone, Varese ;
Monate, and Comabbio ; farther to the right stretch the great plains of
Lombardy and Piedmont, with Milan and its lofty cathedral in the centre.
The silvery Ticino and Sesia meander through the plains, and by a singular
optical delusion seem to traverse a lofty table-land. The Motterone consists
of a number of bare peaks, studded with a few chalets among tall trees ;
its base is encircled with chestnut-trees, and the surrounding plain is also
well wooded.
On the W. side a path, rather steep at places (guide advisable),
descends direct to (2 hrs.) Omegna (Alb. Manin, well spoken ofj,
at the N. end of the Lago d'Orta (rail, stat., see p. 302). Travellers
bound for Orta soon reach on the S. side of the hill a broad bridle-
path (guide unnecessary) descending by Ckeggino (2120') to (2'/2
hrs.) Armeno (1720' ; Alb. dell' Unione) on the high-road, which
they follow to the S. From (12 min.) the point where the road
forks, the left branch leads to Miasino, the right by Carcegna,
crossing the railway to Gravellona (the station of Orta -Miasino
lying on the left), to (4 M.) —
Orta (950'; *H6tel Belvedere, on the Sacro Monte, see p. 438;
*H6tel S. Giulio, kept by Ronchetti, in the market-place on the
lake, R. & A. 4. B. I'/s, D. i^joir. ; Leon d'Oro, Due Spade, un-
pretending. — Beer at the Cafe d'Orta, in the market), a little
town, with marble-paved streets and a Villa of the Marchese ^'atta
at the foot of the Sacro Monte (see below) , picturesquely situated
on a headland extending into the *Lake of Orta. Opposite Orta
lies the rocky /soto S. Giulio (boat there and back i\'oiT.; also
steamboat -Stat.). The church, founded by St. Julius, who came
from Greece in 379 to convert the natives, and frequently restored,
contains several good reliefs, old frescoes, a fine Romanesque pulpit,
and in the sacristy a Madonna by Gaudenzio Ferrari. On the hill
is a seminary for priests, with a garden affording charming views
of the lake. — On the lake (IV4 M. in breadth, 71/2 M. in length),
now called Logo Cusio, after its supposed ancient name, a steamer
plies three times daily : to the S. to Isola S. Giulio , Pascolo,
and Buccione (p. 438); and in the opposite direction to Pella,
Pettenasco , Ronco , Oira and Omegna (*Posta) , at the N. end of
the lake.
Above Orta rises the *Sacro Monte or Santuario (ascent in '/4 br. from the
market-place or through the garden of the Villa Natta : fee for opening the
upper door), a beautifully wooded hill, laid out as a park. In the 16th cent. 20
chapels were erected here in honour of St. Francis of Assisi, each contain-
ing a scene from his history in painted life-size figures of terracotta, with
a background 'al fresco'. Though of little artistic value, these groups are
on the whole spirited and effective. The best arc in the 13th, 16th, and
438 Route 111. VARALLO. From Stresa
20th chapels; in the last is represented the canonisation of the saint, with
the assembly of cardinals. One of the 'Custodi del Monte' will open the
chapels if required O/ii fr.), but a sufficiently good view is obtained
through the openings in the doors. Various points on the hill command
charming surveys of the lake; to the W., above the lower hills, peeps the
snowy Monte Rosa. On the W. side of the plateau are the 'Hotel Belieclere
and a small Cafe-Restaurant.
Pictures(iue excursions may be made from Orta, to the (1 hr.) Madonna
delta Bocciola (1565'), situated on the hill above the station; to the S. to
the (l'/4 hr.) Torre di Biiccione (1500' ; an ancient watch-tower dating from
Emp. Frederick Barharossa) at the S. end of the lake (IV4 hr.; boat to
Buccione l'/2 fr. ; also steamer), both points commanding good views. By
Pella (see below) to ('/a hr.) .iZ^o, with extensive granite-quarries (branch-
railway from Gozzano, see p. 302) and to (1 hr.) the Madonna del Sasso
(2090), the pretty church of the hamlet of Boletto, on a lofty cliff, com-
manding a tine survey of the entire lake. — Porter to the top of the
Motterone (5 hrs.) 6, donkey 10 fr.; over the Motterone to Baveno or
Stresa, 10 and 15 fr.
Railway from Orta to Novara and Domo d'Ossola, see p. 302.
From Orta over the Colma to Varallo, 41/2 hrs., a beauti-
ful walk (donkey 6, to the Colma 3 fr. ; guide, 5 fr., unnecessary).
On the W. bank of the lake, opposite Orta, peep the white houses
of Fella (Pesce (VOro, unpretending), from amidst vines, chest-
ntits, and walnuts. (Boat from Orta ii/2 fr. ; steamer, see p. 437.)
The path to the Colma crosses the Pellino at the upper end of the
village, beside a paper-factory, and ascends steeply. At (12 min.)
the fork we take the level path to the left to (20 min.) a mill,
above which we cross a brook descending on the right. A paved
path now ascends steeply to (40 min.) Arola (2020'), which commands
a lovely view in the direction of the lake of Orta. We turn to the
left 5 min. beyond the village, descend a little, and then keep on
for 1/2 hr. on the same level, skirting the gorge of the Pellino,
which here forms a pretty waterfall. We next ascend through wood,
between crumbling blocks of granite, to the (3/4 hr.) wooded Col
di Colma (3090'). The height to the left commands a splendid
view, embracing Monte Rosa, the lakes of Orta and Varese, and
the plain of Lombardy. In descending (to the right), we overlook
the fertile Val Sesia, with its numerous villages. The path leads
through groves of chestnuts and walnuts to (3/4hr.) Civiasco (2350';
several Cantine), whence a fine new road (shortcut by the old path
descending to the left), the first part of which affords a magnificent
view of Mte. Rosa, leads to (3/4 hr.) —
Varallo (1480'; pop. 3200 ; *CT0ceBianca, good cuisine; *Italia,
R. & A. 31/2) I^- 4 fr.; Posta; Parigi; Falcone Nero'), the capital of
the Val Sesia, at the mouth of the Mastallone, here crossed by a
stone-bridge. The Sesia, often dry in summer, is crossed by a sus-
pension bridge near the railway station. The Piazza Vitt. Emannele,
at the entrance to the town from the station, is embellished by
a monument to Victor Emmanuel. Over tlie high-altar of the col-
legiate church is a Marriage of St. Catharine by Oaudenzio Ferrari
(1484-1549), a native of the neighbouring Val Duggia. The
to Varallo. VAL SESIA. 111. Route. 439
churches of S. Maria delle Grazie (choir), S. Maria di Loreto, and
S. Marco contain frescoes by the same master, those in the last be-
longing to his earlier period. His *Statue in marble, by Delia
Vedova, stands at the beginning of the ascent to the Sacro Monte.
The Sacro Konte {Santuario di Varallo; 1995'), a great resort of pil-
grims and sight-seers, rising close to the town, is ascended in 20 min. by
a paved path shaded by beautiful trees, and commands a delightful view.
On the top of the hill and on its slopes are a church and 46 Chapels, or
oratories, containing scenes from the life of the Saviour in painted life-size
figures of terracotta, beginning with the Fall in the 1st chapel, and end-
ing with the Entombment of the Virgin in the 46th. This ^Jfuova Gerusa-
lemme nel Sacro Monte di Varallo' was founded in 1486 by Bernardino
Caloto, a Milanese nobleman, with the sanction of Pope Innocent VIII.; but
as a resort of pilgrims it did not come into vogue until after the visits of
Cardinal Borromeo (p. 436) in 1578 and 1584, from which period most of the
chapels date. The hill now belongs to the town (Caf^-Restaurant at the top).
Varallo is a capital starting-point for excursions into the very at-
tractive and easily accessible valleys in the vicinity.
From Vaballo via Fobello to Pontegeande (and Macugnaga), 9 hrs.,
guide hardly necessary. A road ascends the pretty * Val Mastallone, passing
the (3 M.) picturesque Ponte delta Gula, to (lO'/a M) Fobello fQSS?';
Posta; Italia; Alb. del Club Alpino); thence by Boca, Plana, S. Maria,
and Giavino to the (3 hrs.) Col di Baranca (5970'; refreshmts. at the cha-
lets), with a chapel. Steep descent, with pretty views of the Val Anzasca,
through the ValV Ollocchia to Bannio and (3 hrs.) Pontegrande (p. 328).
From Varallo through the Val Sesia to Alagna (S'/i! hrs.). Omnibus
daily at 1 p.m. in 5 hrs. The road ascends the fertile valley, on the left
bank of the Sesia, by Valmaggia and Vocca to (5 M.) Balmuccia (ICOC),
at the influx of the Sermenza.
[A road ascends the picturesque Val Sermenza by (2'/2 M.) Boccioleto
(2188'; 'Pens, della Fenice) and Ferrera, to (2 hrs.) Rimasco (2970'; two inns;
the upper is the better) , where the valley divides : in the branch to the
right (E.) lies (2 hrs.) Carcoforo (4280'; Monte Moro, plain), and in the
Val Piccola to the left (W.) is (2 hrs.) Rima (4650'). From Carcoforo to
Pontegrande over the Col d'Egua (7336') and Col di Baranca (see above),
6-7 hrs., with guide, interesting; to Pestarena over the Fasso della Mo-
riana (about 8180'), 6 hrs., with guide, fatiguing; to Macugnaga over the
Col della Bottiglia (8765'), 7 hrs., with guide, also fatiguing (descent through
the Val Quarazza, p. 333). — From Rima (see above) to Macugnaga over
the Col del Piccolo Altare (8630'), G-1 hrs., fatiguing and unattractive; to
Alagna over the Colle Moud or the Bocchetta Moanda, see p. 334.)
The road , following the left bank of the Sesia , ne.xt leads by Scopa
(Inn), Scopello, Pila, Piode, and Campertogno to (10 M.) Mollia (2887'; -.416.
Valsesiana). Thence through the narrowing valley to {i^/thr.) Riva (3628';
'Hot. delle Alpi), with an elaborately decorated church, beautifully
situated, where several peaks of Monte Rosa become visible to the N.,
and (3/4 hr.) Alagna (p. 334).
From Varallo to Xovara, 34 M., railwav in 2 hrs. 8 min. (6 fr. 25,
4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 80 c). The line traverses the fertile Val Sesia. Stations :
Roccapietra, Quarona, Isolella-Vanzone. Beyond (8 M.) Borgosesia (omn.
daily at 10.30a.m. to Go/.zano via Valduggia in 2'/2 hrs.; p. 3Ci2), a large
village on the Sesia, here resemblint; a lake, the line crosses a long via-
duct over the Strona, to Grignasco, Prato-Sesia, and (16 M.) Romagnano
(Pasta), an industrial village in a fertile di.strict in which maize and vines
flourish. The mountains recede altogether. Stations : Ohemine, Sizzano.,
Fara, Briona, S. Bernardiiw, and Bivio Yianale (_j unction for Orta, p. 302),
Then over the Po to Kovara (comp. p. 302); see Baedeker's N. Italy.
440
112. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio
on the Lake of Como. Lake of Lugano.
Comp. Maps, pp. 430, 442.
Railway (Steam-Tramwat) from Luino to Ponte Tresa in 1 hr. (2 fr.
65, 1 fr. 46 c). Steamer from Ponte Tresa to Lugano in 1^/4, to Porlezza
in 2^/4 hrs. (4 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c). Railway from Porlezza to Afenagyio in
1 hr. (2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 45 c). Through-tickets 9 fr. 80, 5 fr. 60 c. ; return,
Sunday, and circular tickets at a reduced rate (to be had on board any of
the steamers). — Swiss custom-house examination on hound the steamers
in the Lake of Lugano, Italian custom-house at Porlezza on Ponte Tresa.
Luino., see p. 431. The station of the steam-tramway is near
the landing-place. The train crosses the St. Gotthard railway near
the Luino station, and at stat. Creva, a manufacturing place, reaches
the Tresa, the river descending from the Lake of Lugano, whicli
falls into the Lago Maggiore at Germignaga (p. 432). After winding
up the abrupt right hank of the Tresa, the train crosses the river,
which here forms the boundary between Switzerland and Italy, by
an iron bridge 797' high, passes through two tunnels, and stops at
Cremenaga (833'). It then follows the left bank to stat. Ponte Tresa,
on the Italian side of the river. The village of that name, on the
Swiss side, lies on a bay of the Lake of Lugano which is so en-
closed by mountains that it looks like a complete little lake in itself.
The Lugano Road (6 M.), which may also be recommended to pe-
destrians, crosses the Vallesina to (l'/2 M-) Magliaso, and, skirting the lake
at places, with the Mte S. Salvatore on the right, leads to (l'/2M.) Agno
(968'). Crossing the stream of that name, and passing the little Lake of
Muzzano , we gradually ascend to the Restaurant du Jardin in Sorengo
(p. 423), and descend to (21/2 M.) Lugano (p. 422).
Steamboat Journey. The vessel steers through the Stretto or
strait of Lavena (with the abrupt Mte. Caslano, 1710', on the left),
and enters the W. arm of the Lake of Lugano (890'; Ital. Lago
Ceresio), where the wooded banks are somewhat monotonous. To
the N. we soon obtain a fine view of the bay of Agno (see above),
with high mountains behind it (Mte. Tamaro, Mte. Bigorlo, etc.).
The steamer turns to the S., passing Figino on the left (with Mte.
S. Salvatore and its chapel in the distance, p. 424), and touches
at Brusimpiano on the right. Farther on we skirt the wooded
slopes of the Mte. Arbostora (2750') on the left, at the foot of which
runs a road to Lugano (p. 425). In a bay of the S. bank lies Porto
or Porto- Ceresio. (Diligence to Varese twice daily in 11/4 hr., sec
p. 449.)
The steamer turns to the N., to Korcote, a village with a pic-
turesque church, prettily situated on the S. angle of the Mte. Ar-
bostora. We follow the W. bank ; Brusin-Arsizio lies on the right,
and the long indented crest of Mte. Generoso soon appears (p. 426).
The vessel touches at Melide on the W. and at Bissone on the E.
bank , and passes with lowered funnel through the embankment
across the lake. (*View through the arch.) To the left rises Mte. S.
Salvatore (p. 424), with the promontory of S. Martino at its base
(p. 423) ; on the right is Mte. Caprino (p, 424).
OSTENO. 11-2. Route. 441
Lugano, sec p. 422 (the station of the St. Gotthard Railway lies
high above the town, 1 M. from the steamboat pier).
Between Lugano and S. Mamette is the linest part of the lake.
Near Lugano the banks are beautifully studded with villas and
chapels, and planted with vines, figs, olives, and walnuts. On the
N. bank is Castagnola, most picturesquely situated at the foot
of Mte. Bre (p. 424) ; then Gandria, perhaps the most beautiful
village on the lake, with its gardens borne by lofty arcades and
its vine-terraces. Beyond this point the lake assumes a wilder cha-
racter. The next villages are (\.^ Bellarma (frontier); Oria with the
Villa Bianci; Albogasio ; and S. Mamette (Stella d'ltalia).i beauti-
fully situated at the mouth of the picturesque Vat Soldo, with Ca~
stello high above it (p. 425). The S. bank is wooded and abrupt.
To the left Loggio, Cresogno, and Cima, opposite which (S.) lies
Osteno (Hotel d'Osteno), much frequented on account of its won-
derful grotto (return-tickets 2 fr. 35 c. ; tickets for the grotto are
sold on board the steamer at 75 c. each).
The -Grotto of Osteno (Orrido or Fescara, 'fisherman's gorge") is 7 min.
from the landing-place. We pass through the village ; outside the gate we
descend to the right before the stone bridge, and cross the brook. The
mouth of the gorge, in which there are two small waterfalls, is near a
projecting rock. Visitors embark in a small boat and enter the grotto, the
bottom of which is occupied by the brook. The narrow ra\'ine through
which we thread our way is curiously hollowed out by the water. Far
above, the roof is formed by overhanging bushes, between which glimpses of
blue sky are obtained. The gorge is terminated by a waterfall. — The
Tufa Grottoes of Kescia may also be visited before the steamer returns
from Porlezza. Boat (with two rowers, there and back 2' '2 fr.) round the
promontory to the E. of Osteno in '/i ^ir. to the hamlet of Rescia; thence
by a narrow path to the grottoes in 5 min. (torches •/« f'')- The dome-shaped
grottoes, encrusted with calcareous sinter and stalactites, are connected
by a low passage (caution necessary). From the second is seen a pretty
waterfall in a gorge. In the vicinity are tufa quarries, containing inter-
esting fossils.
A new road leads from Osteno to the S.W. to (6 BI.) Lanzo d'Intelvi
(3117'; Caffe Cmtrale, moderate, dej. 2 fr.); I1/4 M. above is situated the
' Hdl. Belvedere (pens. 8-10 fr.), a pleasant spot for some stay, with a line
view of the Lake of Lugano and the Alps with 31 te. Rosa (Knglish Church
Service in summer; English physician). [Those whose destination is the
Hotel Belvedere take the footpath to the right, about ^i "■ tiefore reach-
ing LanzQ, which soon joins the road ascending to the hotel. | A road al.so
leads to Lanzo from Maroggia (9 M.; see p. 425), and another from Argegno
on the Lake of Como (S1/2 31.; see p. 446). Near Lanzo ('JO min.) are the
baths of Paraviso. Bridle-path to ifte. Generoso (p. 425), 5V2 hrs.
The N. bank of the lake now becomes rocky and precipitous.
At the N. end of this bay lies Porlezza (^Alb. del Logo, indifferent),
with the Italian custom-house and a harbour. Boat to Lugano 10-12fr.
From Porlezza to Menaggio. The station of the tramway
(comp, p. 440) is close to the landing-place. The train runs
through the broad valley of the Cuccione, by Tavordo, S. Pietro, and
Piano, and past the little Lago del Piano, and then ascends more
rapidly (4:100) by Bene-Grona to stat. Grandola (1260'), the
highest point on the line, 610' above the Lake of Como. It now
descends on the lofty right bank of the Val Sanagra in numerous
442 Route lis. LAKE OF COMO.
curves, the line being hewn in the rock in many places and sup-
ported by buttresses of masonry. Beyond a tunnel 110 yds. long
the line takes a long bend towards the S., affording a delightful
view of the Lake of Como, with its luxuriantly fertile banks,
sprinkled with towns, villages, and villas, and enclosed by high
mountains. To the right are the beautiful peninsula of Bellagio
and the bayofLecco. After running towards theS. for about ^/oM.,
the train turns back at a sharp angle and descends rapidly (6 : 100)
to Menaggio (p. 444), where the terminus is close to the steamboat-
pier and the Hotel Menaggio. (The village of Menaggio has a pier
of its own, see below.)
113. The Lake of Como.
steamboat thrice daily from Colico to Como in 31/2-5 hrs. (5 times
from Bellagio to Como, and 8 times from Torriggia to Como); thrice be-
tween Colico and Lecco (33/4-4V2 hrs.), and thrice between Como and Lecco
(S'/z hrs.). Stations : Colico (pier), Uomaso, Gravedona (pier), Dongo (pier),
Musso ^ Cremia, Oervio, Rezzonico^ Acquaseria, Bellano (pier), Vareniia
(pier), Menaggio-Bridge (pier), Menaggio-Station (pier), Bellagio (pier), Ca-
denabhia (pier), S. Giovanni tlr Tremezzo (pier), Azzano, Lenno, Lezzeno
& Campo, Sala, Argegno (pier), Nesso, Torriggia, Pognana, Palanzo, Carate
(pier), Crio, Torno, Mollrasio , Blevio , Cernobbio (pier), Como (pier). Em-
barkation and landing free (the tickets have a coupon which is given to the
boatman). Those who embark at intermediate stations must procure a
ticket at the pier; otherwise they are liable to be charged for the whole
distance from Como or Colico. Some of these stations are often passed
without stopping , and the advertised hours are not rigidly adhered to.
Some of the boats are handsome saloon steamers, with good restaurants
on board.
Boats. First hour IV2 fr., for each additional hour 1 fr. per rower. From
Bellagio to Cadenabbia and back, each rower 2V2 fr. ; Bellagio to Tre-
mezzo, Bellagio to Menaggio, and Bellagio to Varenna also 2V2 fr. each
rower. — One rower generally suffices, unless time is limited. If a second
proffers his services, he may be dismissed with : 'basta vno^ (one is enough).
The boatmen reduce their fares when customers are not numerous. The
following phrases may be useful: ^Quanto volete per una corsa d^un ora (di
due ore)? Siamo due (ire, quattro) persone. E troppo, vi darb un franco (due
franc/iiy, etc. — The boatmen generally expect a buonamano of V2-I fr. in
addition to the fare.
The *Lake of Como (700'), Ital. Lago di Como, or II Lario, the
Lacus Larius of the Romans, extolled by Virgil (Georg. ii. 159),
is by many considered the most beautiful lake in N. Italy. From
the N. end to Como it is 30 M. in length ; between Menaggio and
Varenna, its broadest part, it is nearly 2^/2 M. in breadth; and its
greatest depth is 1930'. At Bellagio (p. 444) the lake divides into
two arms, the Lake of Como (W.) and that of Lecco (E.). The Adda
falls into the lake at the N. end and emerges from it again at Lecco.
The bay of Como has no outlet.
N^umerous gay villas of the Milanese aristocracy, with lu.Yuriant gardens
and vineyards, are scattered along the banks of the lake, and above these
extend groves of chestnuts and walnuts of brilliant green, contrasting strongly
with the dull-gray tint of the olive, which to the unaccustomed eye re-
sembles the willow. The mountains rise to a height of 7000'. The scenery
»| 1 i :
Ic- ■■■-■iif -^o Ac ^< \i\ • >^-^| SH^ r
GUAVEDONA.
U:i. Route. I-IS
of the ]ake, viewed from the steamboat, somewhat resembles that of a
vast river, the banks on both sides being distinguishable. The dwellers
on the banks of the lake are chiefly engaged in the production and manu-
facture of silk. — The Lacus Larius derives a classic interest from its
connection with the two Plinies, the elder of whom made scientific researches
in this district. — The lake is well stocked with fish, such as the palatable
little '■Agoni, and trout of 20 lbs. weight are occasionally captured.
Eastern Bank.
Colico, see p. 376.
Ogliasca, Dorio, and Corenno ;
the last picturesquely situated,
with a ruined castle.
Dervio lies at the mouth of the
Varrone, and at the foot ot Monte
Legnone and its spur Legnoncino
(5680').
Honte Legnone (8566'), the highest
mountain of Lombardy, may be as-
cended hence in 7 hrs. (with guide ;
fatiguing but interesting). In the
afternoon we mount to (2 hrs.) Sue-
fflio, on the slope of Mte. Legnoncino,
where tolerable quarters for the night
are found; thence by Introzzo and
Aveno to the (3 hrs.) Club Hut at the
Porta dei Merit, and the (1 hr.) sum-
mit, with magnificent view. The
ascent on the N. side, from Delebio
(p. 410), is easier. A bridle-path
leads through the Val della Lesina
to the (4 hrs.) Alp Cappello. and
thence across the Bocchetta di Leg-
none in 3 hrs. to the summit.
Bellano (Roma ; Bellano) with
3000 inhab. and important man-
ufactories and ironworlis, lies at
the mouth of the industrious Val
Sassina, through which a bridle-
path leads to Taceno (road thence
via Introbbio to Lecco). A little
above its influx into the lake the
Piovernn forms a waterfall 200'
high (*Orrido di Bellano, 1/2 fr.).
By the pier is a monument to the
poet Tom. Grossi (d. 1853).
Gittana is the landing-place
for the hydropathic establishment
of Regoledo, beautifully situated
500' above the lake.
Varenna (*Hdtel Royal Mar-
cioni), with beautiful gardens, is
charmingly situated ou a promon-
Wbstbrn Bank.
Domaso, charmingly situated,
with the Villa Venini, the Villa
Miani, and other fine villas.
Gravedona (Alb. Gravedona;
Alb. del Lauro), with 1600 in-
hab. , is picturesquely situated
at the entrance of a ravine. At
the upper end of the village rises
the handsome Palazzo del Pero
with its four towers, erected by
Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio. Adjoin-
ing the old church of S. Vincenzo
is the Baptisterium S. Maria del
Tiglio of the 12th cent., contain-
ing two Christian inscriptions of
the 5th century. — To the W.
opens the Val di Gravedona,
through which a bridle-path leads
to (9 hrs.) Bellinzona, crossing
the Passo di S. Jorio (6415').
Dongo (Alb. Dongo), a large
village in a sheltered situation,
with a Dominican monastery, lies
at the mouth of the valley of the
same name.
On a precipitous rock above
Musso are the three ruined castles
of Rocca di Musso, where the
condottiere Giov. Giao. de' Me-
dici, resided in 1525-31 and held
sway over the whole lake.
Pianello and Cremia , with the
handsome church of S. Michele
(altar-piece, *St. Michael, by
Paolo Veronese).
Rezzonico, with the Villa Litta ;
on the castle-hill a restored fort-
ress of the 13th century. Then iS.
Abbondio. A dangerous footpath
crosses the wild precipice of 11
444 Route ir.i.
MENA.r,G10.
Lake of
Eastern Rank.
tory at the mouth of the Val Esino.
A little to the N. are five imposing
galleries hewn in the rock for the
passage of the road (p. 447). The
marble from the neighbouring
quarries is cut and polished in the
town. Admirable view from the
ruin of Torre di Vezio , near the
hamlet of Vezio , high above the
town (^1/2 hr.).
About 7-2^. to the S. of the
town the y/hite FiumeLatte f 'milk-
stream') falls in several leaps from
a height of 1000' (copious be-
tween March and May and in
autumn; dry in summer).
The '-Monte Grigna (7907'; 8 hrs.)
is a very fine point. From Varenna
a bridle-path leads on the right bank
of the Esino by Perledo to (2'/2 hrs.)
Esino (*Alb. Monte Godeno, moder-
ate), prettily situated. Thence (guide
desirable; 9 fr.) to the Alp Cainallo
11/2, Mp Prada I1/2, Club Hut of the
I. A. C. (Capanna di Moncodine;
6151') '/2 hr. , and to the top in 2
hrs. more (the last part rather
trying). Superb view of the whole
Alpine chain from the Mte. Viso
to the Ortler (the Mte. liosa group
particularly fine), and of the plains
of Lombardy to the distant Apen-
nines. We may descend to the W.
(steep) to the new club-hut Capanna
di Releccio (5840') in the Val Ncria
and to Mandello , or to the E. to
Pasture in the Val Sassina (p. 443).
— The neighbouring Moncodine , a
little lower, and ascended in 1 hr.
less (guide 7 fr.), affords nearly the
same view.
The lake is divided here by the Punla di Bellagio into two arms,
the Bay of Gomo to the S.W., and the Bay of Lecco to the S.E.
Wkstkun Bank.
Sasso Rancio ('the orange rock'),
traversed by the Russians under
Bellegarde in 1799, when many
lives were lost.
Menaggio (*Gr. Hot. Victoria
Unely situated, K. , L. , & A.
41/2 fr- ; Hotel Menaggio^ at the
station, both with gardens on the
lake ; *Corona , moderate) has
two steamboat-piers, one for the
place itself near the Victoria
Hotel, the other, near the Hotel
Menaggio , for the railway to
Porlezza (p. 442). A little to
the S., on the lake, is the palatial
Villa Oliveita. — To the N. of
Menaggio , near the church of
Loveno (*Inn), is the (I1/4 M.)
ViUa Vigoni , with a superb
view of Bellagio, Menaggio , and
the three arms of the lake ( finest
from the Chalet Suisse 1/4 hr.
farther up). A summer-house
contains two admirable reliefs by
Thorvaldsen (Nemesis) and a
marble group by Argenti. Adja-
cent are the Villa Massimo d'Aze~
glio, containing paintings by the
late owner (d. 1866), and the Villa
Oaroviglio, containing archajolog-
ical collections.
Bay of
Eastern Bank.
Bellagio. — -Grande Bretagne,
'Grand Hotel Bellagio , two large
first-class hotels, beautifully situated
on the lake; Grand Hotel & Pension
Villa Serbelloni, a dependance of
the Grande Bretagne, with the same
prices but less comfortable rooms, in
Como.
Western Bank.
Cadenabbia. — ' Bellevue, next
the Villa Carlotta, with shady grounds
on the lake ; Belle-Ile ; -Britan-
nia, formerly Beausijour, pens, from
7fr. ; Pens. & Rest. Cadenabbia, 7-
8 fr. ; Ca/4 Lavezari.
Cadenabbia lies about halfway
Como.
RELLAGIO.
7 73. Roiite. 445
Eastbbn Bank.
the fine park mentioned below. —
"Genazzini , also finely situated on
the lake, R., L., & A. from 4, B. l'/2,
lunch 2V2, D. 4V'.>, pens, from 8 fr.
— Plainer : 'Hotel de Florence, R.,
L., & A. 3, pens. 71/2 fr.; "Pens. Suisse
and Alb. del Vapore, on the lake. —
Beer at the Cafi des Etrangers, on the
quay. — Boats, see p. 442. — Objects
in olive-wood at Gilardoni's, between
the Gr. Bretagne and Genazzini's.
BeUagio(70S'- pop. 3000), sit-
uated at the W. base of the pro-
montory separating the two arms
of the lake, is perhaps the most
deliglitful spot in the lake-district
of N. Italy. To the S. of the vil-
lage is the (1/2 M.) *Villa Melzi,
belonging to the Duchessa di
Melzi , with a fine garden and a
collection of art-treasures (adm.
on Thurs. and Sat. ; fee).
On the height above Bellagio,
reached from Genazzini's Hotel
in 25 min., stands the*Villa Ser-
belloni (now a Hotel and Pension,
see p. 444). The park extends to
the end of the wooded promon-
tory, and affords charming views
of Varenna, the Villa Arcomati,
the Villa Garlotta, etc. (each pers.
not staying in the hotel 1 fr. ;
guide useless).
TheViUa Belmonte (adm. 50 c.),
belonging to an Englishman, also
commands a charming view.
About 1 M. to the S. of the
lower entrance to the Villa Ser-
belloni, beyond the cemetery,
we reach a small blue gate on
the left, leading to the *'Villa
Giulia, the property of Count
Blome of Vienna, with beautiful
*Gardens (open on Sun.; fee
V2-I fr.).
To -Civenna (p. 449) a delightful
excursion (carr. with one horse 8 fr. ;
there and back in 3 hrs.) , with
wliich a visit to the Villa (Hiilia is
Western Bank.
between Como and Colico. A little
to the S.W., in a garden sloping
down to the lake, stands the fam-
ous*'Villa Carlotta (formerly Som-
mariva, after the count to whom
it once belonged). It was pur-
chased by the Princess Albert of
Prussia in 1843, and named
after her daughter Charlotte (d.
1855), and now belongs to the
Dukeof Saxe-Meiningen. Visitors
ring at the entrance to the garden
and ascend the steps (adm. from
8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; fee).
The Marble Saloon has a frieze
adorned with celebrated -Reliefs by
Thorvaldsen , representing the Tri-
umph of Alexander (for which Count
Sommariva paid a sum equal to
14,286i. sterling) ; it also contains sev-
eral sculptures : 'Cupid and Psyche,
Magdalene, Palamedes, and Venus, all
hyCanova; Mars andVenus, hy Acqnisti;
Cupid offering water to doves , by
Bienaime , etc. The Billiard Room
contains casts, and a chimney-piece
with sculptured frieze, representing
a Bacchanalian procession, said to
be one of Tlwrvaldsen^s early works.
In the Garden Saloon are several
modern pictures : Romeo and Juliet
by. Hayez; Atala by Lordon; also a
mai'ble relief of Napoleon, as consul,
by Lazzarini.
The *Garden , extending S. to
Tremezzo, and N. to the Hotel Bel-
levue, displays the most luxuriant
vegetation. (Near the S. side of the
villa is a magnolia l'/2 ft. in diameter.)
Striking view of Bellagio from under
the trees on the S. side of the garden.
The mortuary chapel of the Som-
mariva family, at the end of the
garden wall , contains numerous
works in marble.
Halfway up the Sasso S. Mar-
tino, a rock behind Cadenabbia,
is the little church of Madonna
di S. Martino, with a beautiful
view (l'/2 lir.; rough patli).
The monte Crocione or Galbiga
(6G00'), a higher hill to the W., com-
mands a. striking view of theMte. Rosa
chain, the Bernese Alps, and Mont
446 Route 113.
TREMEZZO.
iMke of
Eastern Bank.
easily combined. — Monte S. Prima
(4i|2 hrs.) see p. 449.
The Villa Trivulzio, fonnerly
Poldi (the family name of the
Gonzagas) contains the mausole-
um of the last Gonzaga, a round
Romanesque tower (beautiful gar-
den and charming view).
S. Giovanni and Villa Trotti
(also with a fine garden).
Villa Besana.
Near Lezzeno is one of the
deepest parts of the lake.
Nesso, at the mouth of the Val
di Nesso, which ascends to the
Piano del Tivano (3800'), with a
high waterfall in a narrow gorge,
often dry in summer.
Monte S. Primo (5555'), ascended
by a steep path via Zelbio in 4 hrs.,
commands a fine view ; the descent
may be made fo Bellagio (p. 444)
or to Canzo (p. 449).
Careno and Quarsano • then
Pognana and Riva di Palanso.
The Villa Pliniana, in the bay of
Molina, attheentranceofanarrow
gorge , erected in 1570 by Count
Anguissola, is now the property
of Marchesa Trotti. It derives its
name from a spring near it which
daily changes its level, a peculi-
Wbsteen Bank.
Blanc, with the lakes at our feet.
(Fatiguing, &-1 hrs. ; guide 5 fr. ; to
avoid heat, start at 2 or 3 a.m.)
Tremezzo (*Alb. Bazzoni) is
almost a continuation of Caden-
abbia. Between them is the Villa
Garlotta. This district, the Tre-
mezzina, is justly called the gar-
den of Lombardy.
Interesting e.xcursion (3-4 lirs. there
and back) by Lenno (Ristor. Bren-
tani) to " S. Maria del Soccorso , a
'Mt. Calvary' with a superb view
(refreshm. at the sacristan's); back
by Mezzegva.
At the end of the long peninsula
of Lavedo is the handsome Villa
Arcomali , formerly Balbianello,
with its colonnade (splendid
view). In the bay lie Azzano and
Lenno. To the S. of the promon-
tory is Campo, charmingly situa-
ted, and beyond it Sala; between
these lies the islet of Comacina,
with the little church of S. Gio-
vanni. Then Colonno.
Argegno (Alb. 4' Ristor. Telo;
Alb.Barchetta), at the mouth of the
fertile Vallntelvi. (Roadby Caatjjf"
Hone to Lanzo, 81/2 M., p. 441.)
Brienno, embosomed in laurels.
Torrigia (Ristor. Casarico) ;
on the promontory the Villa Elisa.
To the S. on the lake, rises a
lofty Pyramid, inscribed ^Joseph
Frank', with a medallion. Frank,
a professor at Pavia (d. 1851),
left money for this monument.
Germanello andLaglio, with the
Villa Vitali.
Carate (Alb.Lario). Then Vrio,
wih numerous villas.
Moltrasio (Alb. Caramazza), in
a beautiful situation , with the
factory-like Palazzo Passalacqua,
rising above its terraced garden,
and the Villa Cavallini.
Como.
CERNOBBIO.
113. Route. 447
Eastebn Bank.
arity observed by both the Plinies.
The quotations are inscribed on
the walls of the court.
To the S. of Torno (Bella
Venezia) both banks are dotted
with villas.
Villa Taverna, formerly Tanzi,
with beautiful gardens; Villa Fer-
ranti or Pasta , formerly the pro-
perty of the celebrated singer (d.
1865); Villa Taglioni, once the
property of the famous danseuse.
Blevio, with numerous villas
(Mylius, Ricordi) ; then , beyond
the promontory (with the Villa
Comaggid) , Borgo S. Agostino,
the N.E. suburb of Como.
Western B.vnk.
Villa Volpi, formerly Pizzo, on
a promontory extending far into
the lake. High above it is the
church of Rovenna.
Cernobbio (*Gr.- Hotel Villa
(TEste <f' Reine d'Angleterre, with
fine park, pens. 9-10 fr. ; Hotel
Reine Olga , high charges; Alb.
del Centra, pens. 51/2 -^V2 ^^-i
Alb. Cernobbio^, with the villas
Belinzaghi, Baroggi , etc. Steam
tramway to Como.
The Monte Bisbino (4385'), with
a pilgrimage-church (fine view), may
easily be ascended from Cernobbio
or Brienno (see above) in 3 hrs.
Farther on are the Villa Cima,
with fine grounds , and the Villa
Tavernola, below the mouth of
the Breggia.
Villa delV Olmo, formerly Rai-
mondi, the largest on the lake, is
at Borgo Vico, the N.W. suburb
of Como.
Como, see p. 448. Omnibiis
to the station 30 c.
Lake of Lecco.
From Como to Lecco, by Bellagio, steamer twice daily. From Colico
TO Lecco twice daily, see p. 442.
The S.E. arm of the Lake of Como, 12 M. long, is scarcely 30 charm-
ing as the S.W. arm , but offers some fine mountain-scenery. Lecco is
charmingly situated. The E. bank is traversed by a high-road, constructed
in 1832 and forming a continuation of the Stelvio road (p. 415) ; it is sup-
ported at places by embankments, and passes through a number of tunnels
or galleries. Steamers ply twice daily from Bellagio (Como) to Lecco, and
thrice daily from Colico to Lecco (comp. p. 442).
The Steamer rounds the Punta di Bellagio (jp.AMy, on the height
above are the grounds of the Villa Serbelloni, and farther on the
Villa Giulia. Then (1.) Lierna, at the foot of the steep Cima Pelaggia,
with a fine retrospect to the N. ; (r.) Limonta, Vassena, Onno, op-
posite the rocky Mte. Qrignn (p. 444). Farther on (_l.) Tonzanico
448 Route 113. COMO. Lake of
and Mandello (Corona), at the foot of the Mte, Campione, then Ab-
badia, on a promontory stretching far into the lake, at the mouth
of the Val Gerona. Then on the W. bank we see a row of cement-
kilns , with large stores of fuel , at tlie foot of the C'orni di Canzo
(4510'). Opposite Lecco lies (r.) Pare , separated from Malgrate
by the promontory of S. Dioniyio. Malgrate lies at the entrance
of the Val Madrera , through which a road leads to Como via Erba
(p. 449). The lake gradually contracts to the river Adda, flowing
out of it , which is crossed by the Ponte Grande, a stone bridge of
ten arches, built in 1335, and by the handsome new Railway Bridge
of the Lecco and Como line (p. 449).
Lecco {Due Torri, well spoken of; Croce di Malta; Italia; Co-
rona; all in the Italian style), a busy town with silk and cotton
factories and iron-works (8000 inhab.), is admirably described in
Manzoni's '1 Promessi Sposi'. In the Piazza is a statue of Garibaldi
by Confalonieri (1884). Pleasant walks to the hill ofS. Gerolamo and
the pilgrimage-church on Mte. Baro (3150'; *View of the Brianza).
From. Lecco to Milan (311/2 M.), railway via Monza in 2-2'/-.! hrs., and
to Bergamo t'iO'/a M.) in IV4 lir., see Bwdeker^s Northern Jlaly.
Como, — *HoTEL VoLTA, with cafc-restaurant, R., L., & A. 5, B. I'/z,
D 5fr. ; Italia, Hut.-Pkns. Suisse, both indifferent; Albergo delCappkllo,
next door to the Volta, good Italian cuisine; all four on the quay. —
''Trattoria Frasconi, in a recess of the piazza on the quay, at the end of
a street at right angles to the harbour. — Baths in the lake, near the Oiar-
dino Pubblico (to the left, beyond the pier). — Books, photographs, etc. at
Meyer d- Zeller's, in the Hotel Volta.
Como (705'; pop. 25,600), the birth place of the younger Pliny
and of Volta, the physicist (whose Statue by P. Marchesi is on the
W. side of the town near the harbour), lies at the S. end of the
S.W. arm of the Lake of Como, amidst an amphitheatre of moun-
tains. The *Cathedrul, begun in the Lombard Gothic style in 1396,
and altered in the Renaissance style by Tommaso Rodari after 1486,
built entirely of marble , is one of the finest in N. Italy. Good
modern stained-glass windows at the entrance. Adjoining the
cathedral is the Town Hall (Broletto), completed in 1215, the
walls of which are curiously built of stones of different colours.
The Porta del Torre, a massive flve-storied structure, is also note-
worthy. In the Piazza Vittoria a bronze Statue of Garibaldi, by
Vela, was erected in 1889. Large silk-manufactories. — Outside
the town, on the promenade, is the church del Crocefisso, of the
17th cent., richly decorated with marble and gold, and V2M. beyond
it, on the slope to the left, is the handsome Basilica S. Abbondio,
of the 8th and 11th centuries.
Excursions. On the E. Bank a beautiful new road leads along the
hillside, high above the lake, affording a variety of charming views, to
(5 M.) Torno (p. 447). — High above Como, to the N.E., lies the village
of Brunate (2405'), the home of itinerant barometer-vendors, enjoying a
beautiful view towards the W., as far as Mte. Rosa. It is reached in
I'/'.' hr. by a zigzag road to the N. of the suburb of Borgo S. Agostino.
Como. BRIANZA. 113. Route. 449
From Como to Eeba and Bellagio (about 28 M.), a very pleasant drive
or walk, especially for those who have not left the steamboat on their
route to Como (one-horse carr. in 5-6 hrs.; fare 25 fr., and gratuity of
3 fr.). We follow the Lecco road from the Porta Milanese, and gradually
ascend the hills to the E. The lake is hidden by the finely wooded Monte
S. Maurizio; to the S. we overlook the country in the direction of Milan;
on the S. E. lies the Brianza, an undulating and very fertile tract, 12 M.
long, 6 M. wide, lying between the Lambro and the Adda , and stretching
N.E. to Lecco. This is the 'Garden of Lombardy', and a favourite resort
of the Milanese, who have numerous villas here. The church of the village
of Camnago , to the N. of the road, contains Volta's tomb (p. 448).
Farther on, to the S. of the road, near a small lake, is the sharp ridge of
Montorfano. Near Cassano we observe a curious leaning tower. Beyond
Albesio the view embraces the valley of Erba ( Pian d^Erba) and the lakes of
Alserio, Piisiano, and Annone, above which on the E. rise the Corni di Canzo
(4510') and the indented Resegone di Lecco (6160').
Near (9 M.) Erba (1017'; Inn), a small town in a very fertile district,
are several villas, the finest being Villa Ainalia, on the N.W. side, with a
splendid view of the Brianza. Near Incino, with its lofty Lombard tower,
V4 hr. S.E. of Erba, stood the Liciniforum of the Romans, which Pliny
mentions with Bergamo and Como. — Railway from Erba to Milan, by
S. Pietro, in IV2 hr.
Beyond Erba we cross the Lambro, which is here artificially con-
ducted into the Lago di Pusiano, a little to the S.E. Just beyond it the
Bellagio road diverges to the left from the Lecco road, and passes through
Longone, on the W. bank of the narrow Lago del Segrino. The next place
is (6 M.) Canzo (Croce di Malta), which extends almost to (1 M.) Asso (joint
population 3200). At the entrance to Asso is a large silk-factory (Casa Versa).
The road now gradually ascends the pretty Vall' Assina, the valley
of the Lambro., with wooded slopes. It passes through several villages,
(2 M.) Lasnigo, (2 M.) Barni, and Magreglio, where it becomes steeper.
First view of both arms of the Lake of Como from the top of the hill near
the (1 M.) Chapel. A charming -Survey of the whole W. arm to Lecco, and
beyond it, is obtained beyond the first church of (1 M.) Civenna, with its
graceful tower. The road now runs for 2 M. on the top of the wooded hill
which extends into the lake as far as Bellagio. Beyond the chapel we obtain
striking views of the Bay of Como, the Tremezzina with the Villa Carlotta
and Cadenabbia (p. 445), the E. arm (Lake of Lecco), a large portion of the
road on the E. shore resting on masonry and embankments, the entire lake
from the promontory of Bellagio to Domaso (p. 443), the promontory itself,
and far below us the hill with the Serbelloni park (p. 445).
The road winds downwards for nearly 3 M. , passing the Villa Gitilia
(p. 445) and the cemetery of Bellagio. From Civenna to the hotels at Bel-
lagio on the lake (p. 444) about 6 M.
An interesting but rather fatiguing circuit (path very stony at places)
may be made by ascending the Monte S. Primo (p. 446 ; 5555'; 4-5 hrs.; with
guide) from Canzo, and descending to (2'/2 hrs.) Nesso or (3 hrs.) Bellagio.
Feom Como to Laveno via Vakese, 3i'/-2 M. , railway in 2'/4 hrs. At
(I3/4 M.) Camerlata, the junction of the Milan line (p. 450), our line
turns to the right and traverses a fertile district with numerous villas.
4V2 M. Grandate; 5 M. Civello; 6 M. Lurate-Caicivio. T'/s M. Olgiate is
the highest point on the line , 787' above the Lake of Como. — 10'/2 M.
Solbiate. At (14 M.) Malnate the line between Milan and Varese intersects
our line. We then cross the Olona to (I71/2 M.) Varese (1250'; 'Gr. Hotel
Varese, R., L., & A. 51/2, D. 5 fr. ; Europa; Angela, etc.), a thriving town
(pop. with environs 13,500) with numerous villas , near the lake of that
name, charmingly situated. Splendid view from the pilgrimage-church of
Madonna del Monte (2'/2 hrs. N.W.). Railway in 2 brs. to Milan, see
Baedeker^s N. Italy. — Beyond Varese the line passes Casbeno, Barasso,
Oavirate, Cocquio, Gemonio , and Cittiglio, and traverses the Val Cuvio,
at the S. base of the Sasso del Ferro (p. 432) to (14 M.) Laveno (p. 432).
Feom Como to Lecco, 26 M., railway in 2 hrs., see Baedeker's Northern
Italy.
Babdekbb, Switzerland. 13th Edition. 29
450
114. From Como to Milan.
29'/2 M. Railway by Moma (comp. p. 448) in IV4-IV4 lir. ; 5 fr. 50,
3 fr. 85, 2 fr. 75 c. (another line by Camnago and S. Pietro, 27 M., in I'^hr.).
Tramwat from Como to Milan (station at Como near the steamboat pier)
by Lomazzo, Saronno, BoUate, A'ovale, and Bovisa (29 BI., in 2-2V2 hrs.).
Omnibus between the station at Como and the quay 30 c. (included in the
charge for through-tickets).
Como, see p. 448. — 3 M. Camerlala ; on a hill above it rises
the lofty old tower of the Castello BaradeUo, where Frederick Bar-
barossa occasionally resided. 6I/2 M- Cucciago ; 8V2 M. Cantu-
Asnago; 91/2 M. Carimate; 12 M. Camnago. The hilly upland to the
left is the fertile Brianza, with its numerous villas fp. 449); the
long, indented mountain in the background Mte. Resegone (p. 449).
151/2 M. Seregno ; IT^/o M. Desio. Several tunnels.
21 M. Monza (pop. 15,500; Albergo del Castello at the station ;
Falcone^, an old town. The Cathedral, founded in 595 by Queen
Theodolinde , and rebuilt in the 14th cent., contains the 'Iron
Crown of the Lombard kings and a rich treasury (5 fr.). The Bro-
letto, or town-hall, of the 13th cent., is said to have formed part of
the palace of Emp. Frederick I. The king's Summer Palace near
Monza has a flue large park. — 25 M. Sesto S. Giovanni,
30 M. Milan. — The Station (PI. F, G, 1; "Restaurant) is a hand-
some building adorned with frescoes and sculptures. Cab into the town (by
day or night) IV4 fr.; each trunk 25 c; hotel-omnibus I-IV2 fr. — Tramway
from the station to the town 10 c. — Porter for luggage under 100 lbs. 50 c.
Hotels. '-Hotel db la Ville (PI. a; F, 5), Corso Vittorio Emanuele;
'Hotel Cavodr (PI. b ; F, 3), Piazza Cavour; *Gkand Hotel Milan (PI. c;
F, 3, 4), Via Al. Wanzoni 29, R., L., & A. from 41/2 fr. ; *Hot. Continental
(PI. e; E, 4), Via Al. Manzoni ; all these of the first class: R., L., * A.
from 5, I). 5, B. I1/2, Omnibus l'/2 fr. — Less expensive: *Geande Bre-
TAGNE & Reichmann (PI. d ; D, E, 6) , Via Torino ; "MStropole , in the
Piazza del Duomo ; 'Rbbecchino (PI. p; E, 5), Via S. Margherita; 'Eueopa
(PI. f; F, 5), Corso Vitt. Emanuele 9; "Manin (PI. k; E, 2), Via Maniu,
near the Giardini Pubblici ; *Roma (PI. g; F, 5), Corso Vitt. Emanuele 7;
■'Pozzo (PI. 1 ; F , 6) , Via Torino , D. 41/2 fr. ; *Francia (PI. m ; F, 5),
Corso Vitt. Eman. 19; *Biscione & Bellevue , in the Piazza Funtana,
next the Piazza del Duomo; '-Central (PI. h; E, 6), Via del Pesce ; -Bella
Venezia (PI. i; E, F, 5), Piazza S. Fedele; '-Ancora (PI. n; F, 5), Via Ag-
nello; -'Lion & Teois Suisses (PI. o; G, 4, 5), Corso Vitt. Emanuele and
Via Durini ; all good second-class houses. ''•'Hotel-Pension SnissE, Via
Visconti, commercial, etc.
Kestaurants ( Tratlorle). "Biffi, Onoceki, see below; *Cova, with garden.
Via S. Giuseppe; -Rebecchino, see above; Borsa, Via S. Giuseppe; Isola
Boita , near the triumphal arch (p. 453). — Cafes. 'Bi/fi, Gnocchi , in the
Galleria Vitt. Emanuele; Cova, see above; "Antille, Via Aless. Manzoni;
Martini, Piazza dellaScala; Belle Colonne, Corso Venezia 1; several in the
Giardini Pubblici (p. 453). — Beer ('birra'') at the caf(Ss (30 c. per 'tazza').
Also at the Birreria Nazionale, opposite the cathedral ; Birreria Svizzera,
next door to the Hotel Metropole; 'Trenk, Galleria de' Cristoforis.
Baths. Bagno di Diana (PI. H, 2), outside the Porta Venezia; Bagno
Nazionale (PI. D, 8), outside the Porta Ticinese ; Bagno delV Annunziata,
Via Annunziata 11; etc.
Cabs ('■Broughams^) 1 fr. per drive, by day or night ; per 1/2 hr. 1, per
hr. IV2 fr. from the station to the town, see above.
Tramway every 5 min. (10 c.) from the Piazza del Duomo to most of
the city gates and to the Cimitero. — Steam Tramway to Monza (see above)
in 1 hr. (60-80 c.) ; also to Saronno-Como (p. 448), Giussano, Vaprio, etc.
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MILAN. 114. Route. 451
Post Office (PI. E, 6), near the cathedral, Via Rastrelli 20, behind the
Palazzo Reale, open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. — Telegraph Office (PI. E, 6),
Piazza dei Mercanti 19, on the N.W. side of the Piazza del Duomo.
Theatres. Teatro delta Scala (PI. E, 4), the largest in Italy next to S.
Carlo at Naples ; Alia Canobbiana (PI. F, 6) ; both open during the Carnival
only. Teatro Afanzoni (PI. E, 5), Piazza della Scala, comedies. Teatro dal
Verme (PI. D, 4), operas and ballet.
English Church Service, Vicolo San Giovanni della Conca 12.
Milan (more fully described in Baedeker's N. Italy), which wag
rebuilt after its total destruction in 1162 by the Emp. Frederick
Barbarossa, is the capital of Lombardy, and one of the wealthiest
manufacturing cities in Italy, silk being the staple commodity. The
city is upwards of 7 M. in circumference, and has a population of
315,000, exclusive of the garrison, or 373,000 including the suburbs.
The business-centre and also most attractive part of Milan is
the Piazza del Duomo (PI. E, F, 5), formerly hemmed in by mean
streets, but recently much extended, and now flanked with palatial
edifices, designed by Gius. Mengoni, which, with the majestic
'Duomo', present a very handsome appearance. This is also the
focus of the tramway and omnibus system.
The **Catliedral (PI. E, F, 5), one of the largest churches in Eu-
rope, built entirely of white marble, and decorated with 98 Gothic
turrets and 2000 marble statues, was begun in 1386 by the munifi-
cent Giangaleazzo Visconti, and completed by Napoleon I.
The Interior, with its double aisles, borne by 52 pillars, and its beautiful
stained windows, is very impressive. In the S. transept a 'Monument to
Giacomo and Gabriele de'' Medici, by Leoni, erected in 1564 by Pope Pius IV.
to the memory of his brothers. 'Stained Glass windows in the choir. An
ancient sarcophagus of St. Dionysius, in porphyry, now serves as a Font.
The subterranean Cappella S. Carlo contains the tomb of S. Carlo Bor-
romeo (in summer 5-10, in winter 7-10 a.m. ; at other times, fee of 1 fr.).
The ascent (in the corner of the right transept) of the 'Roof and Towek
(ticket 25 c.) is recommended , as the visitor is thus enabled to inspect
the architecture of the exterior more closely, and obtains a noble pro-
spect of the Alps and Apennines.
The *Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (PI. E, 5), a fine arcade with
tempting shops, built by Gius. Mengoni in 1865-72, and adorned
with statues of 24 celebrated Italians , connects the Piazza del
Duomo with the Scala.
In the Piazza della Scala (PI. E, 4) rises a marble statue of
Leonardo da Vinci (d. 1519) by Magni. The great master is sur-
rounded by his pupils Gesare da Sesto, Marco da Oggionno, Salaino,
and Boltraffio.
Of the other eighty churches of Milan, the following are note-
worthy. — *S. Ambrogio (PI. C, 6), founded by St. Ambrose in the
4th cent., and re-erected in the 12th cent., contains an 'Ecco Homo'
by Luini, and several ancient monuments. — *S. Slaria delle Grazie
(PI. B, 5j, of the 15th cent., attributed to Bramante, contains pic-
tures by Ferrari, Caravaggio, and Luini. The refectory of the mon-
astery contains Leonardo da Vinci's far-famed **Frbsco of the
Last Supper, now almost obliterated (shown daily 9-4, 1 fr. ; on
29*
452 Route lU. MILAN. Brera.
Sun. and Thurs. gratis). — S. Karia presso S. Celso (PI. E, 8), by
Bramante, also contains good pictures. — S.Maarizio (PI. C, 6) has
fine frescoes by Luini. — *S. Lorenzo (PI. D, 7) once formed part of
Roman palace ; the isolated *Colonnade is borne by sixteen Corin-
thian columns. — S. Carlo Borromeo (PI. F, 4), completed in 1847,
contains two groups in marble by Marchesi.
The *Brera (PI. E, 3; open daily 9-4, Sun. 1-3; adm. 1 fr. ;
Sun. and Thurs. gratis), or Palazzo di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti, for-
merly the Jesuits' College, contains the Public Library (300,000 vols. ,
1000 MSS.), a Collection of Coins (50,000), the Observatory, Casts
from the antique, an Archaeological Museum and a most interesting
*Picture Gallery ( Pinaeoteca) . In the court are marble statues.
Picture Gallery. Antechambers I. and II. : Frescoes by Luini, Ferrari.,
Bramantino, and Marco da Oggionno, the finest being LuinCs Angels (Nos.
14, 26, 45, 49, 54, 68), works of a 'genre' character (2, 11, 13), and scenes
from the life of Mary (5, 19, 42, 43, 51, 63, 69, 73); '^47. Madonna with SS.
Antony and Barbara ; 25. Oaud. Ferrari, Adoration of the Magi. — Oil-
paintings. 1st Room : 87. Bernardino de' Conti, Madonna ; 106. And. Solario,
Madonna. — 2nd R. : 159. Gentile da Fahriano, Mary in glory ; 167. Bartol.
Montagna, Madonna ; 164. Gent. Bellini, Preaching of St. Mark ; 193. Crivelli,
Madonna. — 8rd R. : 206. Moretto, Madonna with SS. Jerome, Anthony, and
Francis ; 209. Bonifacio, Finding of Moses ; P. Vej-onese, 219. SS. Gregory and
.Terome, 220. Adoration of the Magi, 221. SS. Ambrose and Augustine, 227.
SS.Antonius Abbas, Cornelius, and Cyprian. — 4th R. : 248. TOtora, St. Jerome.
— 5th R. : 261. Giov. Bellini, Madonna ; '264. And. JUantegna, Large altar-
piece; 265. Bern. Luini, Madonna; "'*267. Leonardo da Vinci, Study for
the head of Christ in the Last Supper; *'270. RaphaeVs famous 'Sposa-
lizio' , or Marriage of the Virgin , painted in 1504 for the church of S.
Francesco in Citta di Castello ; 272. Giotto , Madonna ; 273. Mantegna,
Pieta. — 6th R. : 283. Crivelli, Madonna and Saints; Giov. Bellini, *284.
Pieta, '297. Madonna ; =300. Cima da Conegliano, SS. Peter, Paul, and John
the Baptist. — 7th R. ; 253, 254, 255. Lorenzo Lotto, Portraits. — 8th R. :
328. Lor. Costa, Adoration of the Magi ; 331. Guercino, Expulsion of Hagar ;
333. Dossi, St. Sebastian; 334. Fr. Francia, Annunciation. — 9th R. : Dutch
and Flemish works. — 10th R. : 390. Velazquez (?), Dead monk ; 442. Van
Dyck, Madonna and Child with St. Antony of Padua ; '446. Van Dyck,
Portrait; '447. Rubens, Last Supper; "449. Rembrandt, Portrait. — 11th R. :
456. Donienichino , Madonna and saints. — To the left is a suite of rooms
with modern pictures, sketches by academicians, casts, etc. — On the
ground-floor is the Museo Archeologico (daily 12-3, adm. 1/2 fr. ; Sun. 2-4,
gratis) , a collection of antique , mediaeval , and Renaissance sculptures
and old frescoes, most of them found at Milan. Among the best sculp-
tures are those by Agostino Busii, sumamed II Bambaja.
The famous *Bibliotheca Ambrosiana (PI. D, E, 5), open daily,
except Wed. & Sun., 10-3 (fee 1 fr. ; pictures on Wed. IO-I2V2,
Sun. 1-3 gratis), founded in 1609 by Card. Fed. Borromeo, contains
160,000 vols, and 8000 MSS. Among the pictures is *RaphaeVs
cartoon for his School of Athens.
The Museo Poldi-Pezzoli (PI. F, 4), Via Moroni 10, contains
an admirable collection of weapons, pictures, sculptures in marble,
bronze, and terracotta, furniture, tapestry, trinkets, etc., ex-
hibited in the house of the founder Cavaliere Poldi-Pezzoli (d.
1879). Admission daily 10-4, on festivals 12-3; 1 fr. ; cata-
logue 1 fr.
Castello. MILAN. 114. Route. 453
The *Ospedale Maggiore (PI. F, 6), a remarkably fine brick
edifice, begun by Ant. Filarete of Florence in 1457, contains nine
different courts. The external terracotta incrustation is observed
on other Milanese buildings, but the facade of the Ospedale with its
rich and beautiful windows is probably unsurpassed.
The Castello (PI. D, 3, 4), adjoining the Piazza d'Armi, once
the seat of the Visconti and Sforza, is now a barrack. Behind it
lies the Arena, a kind of circus for 30,000 pers. , founded by
Napoleon I. (fee V2fr.).
On the N.W. side of the Piazza d'Anri rises the *Arco del
Sempione (PI. B, 2), a triumphal arch of marble, founded by Na-
poleon in 1804 by way of termination to the Simplon road, and
completed in 1838 (107 steps to the top).
The Giardini PubbUci (PI. F, G, 2, 3),), between the Porta Ve-
nezia and Porta Nuova, are the chief promenade of the Milanese, In
the older part is the so-called Salone, containing the Museo Artistico
(daily 1-4; 1 fr. ; Sun. 20 c.). Adjoining the W. side is the
Museo Civico, containing natural history collections (Tues., Wed.,
and Sat. , 11-3, ^jiir.; Thurs. gratis). At the W. entrance to the
new Giardino Pubblico is the Piazza Cavour, embellished with a
*Statue of Cavour in bronze, by Tabacchi, erected in 1865.
The new *Cemetery {Cimitero ; 50 acres in area) , outside the
Porta Tenaglia (PI. C, D , 1), contains many fine monuments (several
with marble statues of the mourners) and a 'Tempio di Cremazione'.
*View of the Alps.
INDEX.
Aaberli Alp 42.
Aadorf 48.
Aarau 21.
Aarberg 204.
Aarburg 16.
Aare, thell.21. 146.171
172. etc.
Aare Glaciers, the 174.
Aathal 42.
Abbadia 448.
Abbaye, L' 256.
S. Abbondio on the Lake
of Como 443.
— near Lugano 423.
Abendberg, the 151.
Abliintschen 187.
Abschwung, Im 174.
Achseten 177.
Achtelsassgrat, the 125.
Ada d'im Lei 389. 391.
393
Acletta 114. 362.
— , Piz d' 114.
Acqua, Hospice all' 303
— , Piz deir 401.
Acquarossa 367.
Adda, the 400. 413. 414
etc.
Adelboden 177.
Adige, the 416.
Adler Glacier 331.
Adler Pass, the 331.
St. Adrian 95.
Adula, Piz 376.
JEgevi 98.
Ael, Pont d' 280.
Aela Hut 378.
Aela Pass 379.
Aela, Piz d' 378.
iElpeltispitz, the 350.
iElplisee, the 356.
jEmsigen-Alp, the 93.
^rnen 305. 306.
JEsch 9. 130.
— , the Alp 64.
.aischach 51.
Mschi 176.
Affoltern 19. 70.
Agassizhorn, the 173.
Agassizjoch, the 174.
St. Agata 431.
Agittes, Anx 229.
Agno 440.
Agogna, Val d\ 302.
Aguagliouls 394. 395.
Agums 416.
Ahorn-Alp 117.
Ai, Tour d' 229.
Aigle 229.
Aiguille, Plan de r 263
Aiguille Grise 264.
Aiguille Verte 260. 265,
Aiguilles Marbrees 264.
— Rouges (Chamonix)
261.
(Val d'Heren3)311
, Glacier des 310.
Airette, r 239.
Airolo 105.
Aix-les-Bains 247.
Alagna 439.
Albana, Piz 383.
Albbnick 23.
Albens 248.
Albert-Hauenstein 23.
Albertville 250.
Albesio 449.
Albeuve 236.
Albigna, the 386.
— , Val 411.
Albigna Glacier 385. 411.
Albinen 181.
Albis, the 38. 71.
Albis Hochwacht, the ,
Albisbrunn, Baths 71.
Albogasio 441.
Albris, Piz 396.
Albrunhorn, the 305.
Albrun Pass, the 305.
Albula, the 354. 369. 378.
Albula Pass, the 379.
Albulahorn, the 354. 379
399.
AletschGlacier, the Great
163. 296. 304.
, the Upper 296. 305.
Aletschbord 305.
Aletschhorn, the 304.
Algaby 300.
Allalin Glacier 331. 332.
AUalinhorn, the 331. 332.
Allalin Pass, the 331. 328.
AUaman 219. 228.
Allamans, Les 242.
Allee, Alp de V 813. 315.
, Col de r 313. 315.
, Pigne de V 313. 315.
Blanche 273.
Alle'e Blanche, Glacier
de r 273
Allenbachthal, the 177.
Allensbach 24.
Alleves 287.
Alliaz, Bains de T 220.
224.
Allieres 236.
Allinges, Les 239.
Allmannshiihe, the 30.
Allmen Alp 177. 179.
Allinendhubel, the 154.
Allweg 92.
Almagell 332.
Alogna, Alp 377.
Alphnbel, the 332. 333.
Alphubeljoch, the 332.
Alpien 300.
Alpienbach, the 300.
Alpiglen 160.
Alpina, Farm 389.
Alpligen Glacier, the 108.
— Lucke, the 108.
Alpnach 121.
Alpnach-Stad 92. 121.
Alpnach, Lake of 92. 121.
Alpthal 96. 98.
Alserio, Lago d' 449.
Altanca 105.
Altdorf 101.
Alteingrat, the 353.
Altels, the 179.
Altendorf 41.
Altenorenalp, the 114.
Altikon 31.
Altmann, the 57.
Altmatt 98.
Altnau 30.
Altorf 101.
Alt-St. Johann 59.
Alt-Snlothurn 14. 16.
Altstad, islet 78.
Altstaffel 303. 307.
Altstatten (Rhine Valley)
339.
Altstetten (near Zurich)
19. 70.
Altwis 130.
Alun, Piz 343.
Alv, Piz 406.
Alvaneu 354.
Alvaneu, Bad 378.
Alvaschein 369.
INDEX.
455
Alvascheiner Alp 353.
Alvier, the 46. 340.
Alzasca, Lago di 428.
Alzo 438.
Ambri 106.
Amden (Ammon) 44.
AmdenerBerg, the 44. 59.
Ammerten Glacier, the
185.
Ammertengrat, the 184.
Ammertenhorn, the 184.
Ammertenpass , the 184.
Ammon 44.
Amnisbuhel, the 144.
Amphion, Bath 239. 216.
Amriswyl 47.
Amseltluh, the 356.
Am Senk 299.
Amsoldingen 141. 186.
Amsteg 103.
Andeer 371.
Andelfingen 32.
Andermatt 110.
Andermatten 308.
Andey, Points d' 253.
Andolla, Pizzo d' 300.
Anengrat, the 305.
Anet 204.
Angenstein, Castle 9.
Angera 435.
Anieres 239.
St. Anna, Castle of 50.
— , Glacier of 110.
Annecy 251.
— , Lac d' 251.
Annemasse 207. 216. 239.
252. 253.
Annes, Col des 252.
Anniviers, Val d' 314.
Annone, Lago d' 449.
Anterne, Col d' 256.
Antey-St-Andrg 322.
St. Anthony, Chapel 53.
Antigine, Passo d' 301.
-, Pizzo d' 301.
Antigorio, Valle d' 308.
St. Anton , on the Arl-
berg 418.
— (Montavon) 419.
St. AntiJnien 349.
St. Antonier Joch , the
349. 419.
S. Antonio, near Bormio
413.
— , near Bellinzona 421.
— , in the Val Poschiavo
408.
— , Bocchetta di 428.
Antrona Plana 301.
— Pass, the 301. 332.
Anzasca, Val d" 328.
Anzeindaz 238.
Aosta 276.
Appenzell 54.
— , the Canton 51.
Aprica, Passo d' 409.
Aquila 367.
Arabione,Cima dell' 425.
Aravis, Col des 252. 250.
Arbedo 377. 107.
Arbenhorn, the 316.
Arbignon 181.
Arblatsch, Piz 382.
Arbola, Colle d' 305.
— , Punta d' 305.
Arbole, Colle d' 281.
Arbole, Chalets d' 278.
281.
Arbon 30.
Arbostora, Mte. 425. 440.
Ardenno 409.
Ardetz 402.
Ardetzenberg, the 420.
Ardon 239. 294.
Arenaberg 25. 31.
Areu, Pointe d' 254.
Areue Valley 375.
Areuse, see Reuse.
Argegno 441. 446.
Argentiere 265.
— , Aiguille d' 265.
— , Col d' 265.
— , Glacier d' 265.
Argentine, the 230. 238.
Argient, Piz 395.
Arietta Colle d' 282.
Arina, Piz 405.
Arizzano 433.
Arias, Mt. 383. 388.
Arlberg, the 418.
Arlesheim 9.
Arly, the 250.
Armeno 437.
Armillcin 115.
Arnaz 279.
Arnegg 47.
Arnen Lake 234.
Arnex 204.
Arnitobel, the 119.
Arola 438.
Aroletta, Croix d' 284,
Arolla, Combe d' 310.
— , Glacier de V 311.
-, Pigno d' 293. 310.
311.
Arona 435.
Arosa 355.
Arpenaz, Cascade d' 254.
Arpette, Val d" 286.
Arpiglia, Piz d' 400.401.
Arpille 232.
Arpisson, Chalets d' 231.
Arpitetta, Alp 315.
— , Pointe d' 315.
Arth 86. 94. 95. 100.
lArth-Goldau 86. 98. 100.
Arthaz 253.
Arve, the 215. 253. 269.
269. etc
Arveye 229. 234.
Arveyron , Source of the
261.
Arvier 276.
Arvigrat, the 121.
Arzinol, Pic d' 310.
Ascona 431.
Aspermont 341.
Assa, Val d' 405.
Assina, Valle 449.
Asso 449.
Astras dadaint 404.
— dadora 404.
— , Piz 401.
Attinghausen 102.
Atzmoos 440.
Au, Convent near Ein-
siedeln 98.
— , in the Rhine Valley
339.
— , on the Lake of Zu-
rich 39.
— , Waggithal 41.
Auberg, the Grosse 42.
St. Aubin 196. 197.
Aubonne 219. 228.
Au Devant 237.
Audon, see Oldenhorn.
Audoz, Crete d' 216.
Auenguter 63. 114.
Augst 17.
Augstbord Pass, the 318.
Augstenberg, the 348.
Augstholz 129.
Augstkummen-Matt, the
323.
Augstmatthorn , the 151.
Aul, Piz 360.
Ault, Piz 362.
Aurona. Punta d' 298.
Ausserl)inn 305.
Auvernier 195.
Avants, Les 236.
Avegno 428.
Aven 238.
Avenches 203.
Aveno 443.
Aventina 336.
— , Glacier 336.
Averser Thai, the 371.
Avigna, Val 404.
Avise 276.
Avril, Mont 292. 293.
Avrona 403.
Axalp 170.
Axenberg, the 83. 101.
AxenQuh, the 83.
Axenfels 81.
Axen.stein 81. 360.
Axenstrasse, the 82.
456
INDEX.
Ayas, Val d' 336.
Ayent 186.
Ayer 315. 318.
Ayerne, Roc d' 241.
Aymaville 276.
Ayutz, Piz 402.
Azzano 446.
Baar 72.
Baceno 308.
Bachalp, the 164. 182.
Bachistock, the 66.
Bachtel, the 42.
Bachtelen 139.
Bacone, Piz 385.
Baden in the Aargau 19
Badile, Piz 410.
Badus, the 110. 364.
Bageschwand-Hohe , the
128.
Bagnes, Val de 291.
Baldegg 130.
Baldegger See 130.
Baldenstein, Castle 369.
Bale 3.
Balen 333.
Balenflrnhorn, the 332.
383.
Baleriia 426.
Balfrin, the 332. 333.
Ballaigues 204.
Ballaliina 378.
Ballenbuhl, the 129.
Balliswyl 199.
Ballwyl 129.
Balmaz, La 231.
Balme 254. 293.
— , Aig. de 269.
— , Col de 269.
Balme, La 271.
Balmenhorn, the 326.
Balmhorn, the 179.
Balmmatt 121.
Balmuccia 439.
Balmwald 113.
Balmwand, the 64.
Balsthal 12.
Baltschiederjoch, the 182.
Balzers 339.
Bange, Grotte de 248.
Bannio 328. 439.
Baradello, Castello 450.
Baranca, Col di 439. 333.
Barberine, the 266.
— , Col de 242.
Bard 279.
Bardonneche 250.
Bardonney, Colle 282.
Baregg, the 162.
Barengrube, Pass 119.
Barenhorn, the 360.
Baretta Balma 350.
Barma, La 291. 310.
Barmaz, La 336.
Barni 449.
Baro, Monte 448.
Barr Glacier, the 318.
Barr Pass, the 318.
Barrhorn, the 318.
Barschis 45.
Barschvvyl 9.
Bartholomaberg , the
419.
Baseglia, Mt.^ 390. 400.
Basel, see Bale.
Baselaugst 3. 17.
Basodino, the 307. 420.
Bassecourt 10.
Basset, Le 224.
Batiaz, La, Castle 232.
Batie, Castle 249.
— , Bois de la 215.
Battenalp, the 170.
Batzenheid 58.
Bauen 81.
Bauma 47.
iJaumgarten Alp, the 63.
Baveno 434.
Bavona, Val 429.
Biizberg, the 110.
St. Beatenberg 144.
Beatenhohle, the 145.
St. Beatusbad 145.
Beaufort 250.
Beaulmes, Aig. de 198.
Beauregard, Castle 195.
Beckenried 79.
Bedretto 303.
- , Val 303. 105.
Bee 433.
Beglingen 45.
Bei Rheinfelden 22.
Beichfirn, the 297.
Beicbpass, the 297.
Beinwyl 130.
Belachat, Plan 262.
Belalp, the 296.
Belalphorn, the 297.
Belfaux 201.
Belfort, ruin 378.
Belgirate 435.
Bellagio 444.
Bellano 443.
Bellarma 441.
Bellavista, the 433.
Bellavista Pass, the 386.
397. 398.
Bella Tola, the 317.
Bellegarde on the Rhone
246.
— in the Jaunthal 187.
Bellenhtichst 151.
Bellerive on the Birs 9.
Belleville 250.
Bellevue 217.
Pavilion de270. I
Bellinzona 107.
Belmistock, the 102.
Bel Oiseau, the 266. 267.
Belotte 239. 215.
Belp 139.
Belvedere (Macugnaga)
329.
— (Little St. Bernard)
275.
Bendiikon 39. 41.
Bene-Grona 441.
Benken 43.
Benzenschwyl 21.
Be'ranger, Col de 271.
Berard, Valine de 267.
266.
— , Cascade k 266.
Bercla, Val 382.
Bergell, the Valley of 410.
Bergli, the 163.
Berglibach, the 178.
Bergli Hut, see Monch-
hiitte.
Bergli-Joch, the 166. 172.
Berglistock, the 166. 364.
Bergue, La 255.
Bergiin 378.
Bergiiner Stein, the 378.
Beringen 23.
Berisal 298.
Berlingen 25. 31.
Bern 133.
St. Bernard , the Great
278.
— , the Little 275._
S. Bernardino 376.
— , Pass 376.
S. Bernardo 410.
Bernegg, the 49.
Bernetsmatt 113.
Bernhalden, Alp 58.
Bernina, the 394.
— , Hospice 398. 406.
— , Houses of 396. 406.
— , Pass, the 407.
— , Piz 397.
Berninabach, the 391.
392. 393.
Berninascharte, the 398.
Beroldingen 81.
Berra, the 201.
Bertol, Col de 312. 328.
Dents de 312.
Bescha, Munt della 395.
Besnate 432.
Besozzo 432.
Besso, the 315.
Besson 238.
Betlis 44.
Betschwanden 61.
Bettaforca, the 335.
Bettelmatt 307.
Bettelried 183.
INDEX.
457
Bettflub, the 142.
Bettlihorn , the 298. 305.
Bettliner Pass 336.
Bettmeralp, the 305.
Bettmersee, the 305.
Bettolina 336-
Beuggen 8. 22.
Bevaix 197.
Bever, Val 390. 399.
Beverin, Piz 370.
Severs 390. 399.
Bevieux 230. 238.
Bevilard 10.
Bex 230.
Bianca Valley, the 329.
Bianco, Como 331.
Bianco, Pizzo(Macugnaga)
330.
— (Bernina) 398.
Biasca 107. 367.
Biaschina, the 106.
Biaufond 194.
Biberbruck 96. 98.
Biberegg 98.
Biberg, Alp 178.
Biberlikopf, the 44.
Biberstein, Castle 22.
Bider Glacier 332.
Bief d'Etoz 194.
Biel in the Canton of
Bern 11.
— in the Valais 304.
Bielenstock, the 115.
Bieler Hohe 419.
Bien 284.
Bienenberg 12.
Bienne 11. 190.
Bienne, Lake of 190.
Bieno 433.
Bies Glacier, the 320.
— Joch, the 318.
Bietschhorn, the 182.
Bietschjoch, the 182.
Bietschthal, the 295.
Biferten Glacier 62. 63.
— Stock, the 62. 63. 361.
Biglenalp, the 159.
Bignasco 428.
Bigorio 425.
Bilten 42.
Binn 305.
Binningen 8.
Binnenthal, the 305.
Bionaz 311.
Bionnassay 270.
— , Aig. de 271.
— , Glacier de 271.
Birmensdorf 70.
Bironico 422.
Birrfeld 18.
Birrwvl 130.
Birs, the 9. 12.
Birseck, chateau 9.
Birsigthal, the 8.
Bisbino, Mte. 447.
Bischofzell 47.
Bisithal, the 65.
Bissone 425. 440.
Bistenen Pass, the 319
299.
Bististaffel 319.
Bitto, Val del 410.
Bitzistock, the 125.
Bivio 382.
— Vignale 439.
Blackenstock, the 120.
St. Blaise 190. 204.
Blaitiere, Aig. de 260.
262.
— , Cascade de 259.
Blanc, Mont 263.
Blanchard, the 240.
Blankenburg, Chateau of
183. 187.
Bias, Piz 363.
Blatten 157.
Blattje, see Plattje.
Blauberg, the 11^.
Blaue Gletscher, the 165.
171.
— Schnee, the 56.
— See, the 177.
Blegno, Val 366.
Blevio 447.
Blinnen Thai, the 304.
Blitzingen 304.
Elonay, near Vevey 226.
223.
— , near Evian 240.
Blonniere, la 251.
Bloye 248.
Bludenz 418.
Blumattalp, the 11 (.
Blume, the 143.
Blumenstein, Baths 141.
187.
Blumlisalp, the 178.
— Glacier, the (Uri) 84.
119.
(Kandersteg)156.178.
Bliimlisalphorn, the 178
Blunilisalp-Rothhorn,the
178.
Bliimlisalpstock, the 178
Blummattalp (Turtmann
Valley) 318.
BoccarecciOjPasso del 306.
Boccioleto 439.
Bochard, Aig. du 260.
Bocken 72. 40.
Bockitobel, the 120.
Bockli, the 102.
Bocktschingel, the 114
Boco 439.
Boden Glacier 324.
Bodengo, Val 377.
Bodensee, the 27.
Bodio 107.
Bodmer, Castle 341.
Bcidmer Alp 64.
Boege 255.
Boeuf, Pas du 317.
Boezingen 11.
BofUens 204.
Boganggen, Alp 156.
Boglia, Mte. 425.
Bognanco, Val 301.
Bohl 151.
Bois, Les 261. 265.
— , Glacier des 259. 260.
— . Tete de 287.
Boletto 438.
Bolgen Alp 117.
Bolla, Alp 425.
Bolladore 413.
Bollengo 280.
Bollingen 41.
Boltigen 187.
Bolzano 302.
Bommen Alp 56.
Bonaduz 368. 357.
Bonaveau, Chalets of 241.
2i2.
Bondasca Glacier, the 411.
— , Val 411.
Bondergrat, the 177.
Bonder-Krinden, the 177.
Bimderspitz, the 177.
Bonderthal the 177.
Bondo 411.
— , Forcella di 411.
Bonhomme , Col du 272.
— , Croix du 272.
Bonigen 143. 170.
Boniswyl 130.
Bon-Nant, the 254. 271.
Bonne 255.
Bonneville 252.
Bonport 225. 248.
Bons-St. Didier 216. 246.
Bonstetten 70.
Bonvillars 198.
Bonvin, Mont 295. 177.
Borca 329.
Borce 242.
Borgnone 428.
Borgo S. Agostino 447.
— Vico 426. 447.
Borgofranco 280.
Borgomanero 302.
Borgonuovo 411.
Borgosesia 439.
Bormio 413.
— , Baths of 414.
Bornand, Petit and Grand
252.
Bornengo, Passo 364.
Borniiv 411.
Borromean Islands 434.
458
INDEX.
Bora, Alp 334. 335.
— , Glacier 335.
Bortelalp, the 298.
Borterhorn, the 296. 298.
Borterthal, the 317.
Bosa, Passo di 428.
Bosalgau, Alp 151.
Bosco 308. 428.
— , Val del 428.
Bosenstein, the 152.
Bosses deDromadaire 260.
Bossey 246.
Bosson, Bees de 310. 313.
Bossons, Glacier des 255.
262.
— , Les 262.
Boswyl 21.
Bottarello, Pizzo 332.
Bottiglia, Col della 430.
Bottmingen 81.
Botzberg, the 18.
Botzenegg 18.
Boudry 196.
Bougy 219.
— , Signal de 216. 229.
Bouquetin, the 315.
Bouquetins, Col des 313.
Bouquetins, Dent des
311. 313.
Bourdeau 248.
Bourg St. Maurice 275.
— St. Pierre 287.
Bourget, Le 248.
— , Lac du 247. 248.
Bourgillon 199.
Boussine 292.
Boussine, Tour de 292.
Bousson, Cima del 284.
Bouveret 240. 216.
Boval 394.
Boveresse 196.
Bovernier 286.
Boveyre, Glacier de 287.
Bovisa 450.
Brad 416.
Brail 400.
Bramberg, the 199.
Bramegg, the 127.
Bramois 309.
Brand 91. 418.
Brandlisberg, the 141.
Brandlisegg, the 151.
Brandner Thai, the 418.
Branson 232.
Brasses, Pointe des 255.
Brassus, Le 205. 219.
Bratz 418.
Braulio, the 414.
— , Mte. 414.
Braunfels 194.
Braunwaldberg, the 02.
65.
Bre 424.
Bre, Monte 424. 441.
Bregaglia, Val 384. 410
Bregalga, Val 371.
Bregenz 420.
Breil 321.
Breitenboden, Alp 165.
166.
Breithorn, near Zermatt
325. 336.
— ,the Lanterbrunnen 153,
, the Lotschthaler 297
Breitlauenen 150.
Brembana, Val 410.
Bremgarten 21.
Brenet, Lac 205.
Brenets, Les 195.
— , Lac des 195.
Breney, Col de 293. 310
Breney, Glac. de 292.
Brennet 22.
Brenno, the 107. 366.
Breno 425.
Brent 236, 224.
Brenva, Glac. de 273.
Br^onna, Col de 316.
— , Couronne de 310. 316,
Bressonaz 202.
Brestenberg 130.
Bretaye 229. 234.
Breuil, le 821.
Brevent, the 261.
— , the Col du 253.
Briancon, Castle 250.
Brianza, the 449.
Bricolla, Alp 312.
— , Pointe de 313.
, Col de la 313.
Brides-les-Bains 250.
Brieg 296.
Brienno 446.
Brienz in the Canton of
Bern 169.
— (Grisons) 355.
— , Lake of 169.
Brienzwyler 163.
Brigels 361.
Brigelser Horn, the 361
Brigue 296.
Briona 439.
Brione 427.
Brisi, the 44.
Brissago 431.
Bristen 113.
Bristenstock, the 88. 103
114.
Broc 187.
Broglio 429.
Brolla, Ponte 428.
Brothusi 186.
Brouillard, Mont 273.
— , Glacier du 264.
Brozet. Glacier du 184
, Col du 233.
Brugg 18.
Briigg 11.
Bruggen48. 49.
Brugnasco 105.
Brule, Mont 312.
Briilisau 55. 57.
Brultobel, the 57.
Brunate 448.
Briindlisalp 94.
Briinig-Pass, the 122. 123.
Brunnegghorn, the 319.
Brunnegg-Joch, the 318.
Brunnen 81. 101.
Brunnenstock, the 126.
— Glacier, the 113. 114.
Brunni Pass, the 114. 363.
Brunnistock, the 80.
Brunnithal, the 64. 113.
Brusimpiano 440.
Brnsin-Arsizio 440.
Brusio 408.
Brusson 336.
Bubendorf 12.
Bubikon 42.
Buccione 437. 438.
Buchberg , the , in the
Rhine Valley 339.
— on theLinth Canal 42.
Buchs 5S. 340.
Buchs-Dallikon 19.
Budden, Capanna 277.
Budri, Roc de 318.
Buet, the 257. 266.
Buffalora Alp 400. 413.
Biihlalpe, the 117.
Biihlbad, the 178.
Buhler 53. 57.
Buin, Piz 350. 419.
Bulach 47.
Bulle 235.
Buls, Alp 45.
Bumplitz 199.
Bundalp, the 156.
Bunderbach 177.
Biindnerbergfirn, the 358.
Bunschi-Bad 187.
Biinzen 21.
Buochs 79.
— , Lake of 89.
Buochser Horn, the 117.
Buonas 94.
Biiren 16.
Burg 25.
Burg, the 164.
Burgdorf 17.
Burgeis 416.
Biirgenstock, the 91.
Burgfeldstand, the 145.
Burgfluh, the 142. 186.
Burghalden 96.
Burgistein 141.
Burglauenen 158.
Burglen (Obwalden) 122.
INDEX.
459
Burglen (Thurgau) 47.
— (Uri) 102.
Burglen Sattel, the 187.
Biirgli, the 38.
Bnrier 228.
Bursinel 228.
Burtigny 219.
Burvagn 381.
Buscagna Alp 306.
— , Passo di 298. 305.
Biisingen 24.
Bussalp, the 164.
Busserailles, Case, de 321.
Bussigny 199.
Busswyl 11.
Busto Arsizio 436.
Buthier, the 276. 278. 289.
290.
Biitschelegg 139.
Biitschwyl 58.
Buttes 195.
Biittlassen, the 156. 176.
Biitzberg 17.
Cabbiolo 377.
Cacclabella Pass, the 386.
— , Piz di 411.
Cadabbl, Passo del 376.
Cadagno 105.
Cadempino 422.
Cadenabbia 444.
Cadenazzo 422. 430.
Cad Val 382.
Cadlimo,Vall05.363.366.
— , Bocca di 105.
Cadonighino, Alp 429.
Cairasca, Val 300.
Calanca, Val 377.
Calanda, the 341. 347.
Calasca .328.
Calde 432.
Calfreisen 355.
Calmot, the 364.
Caltignaga 302.
Cama 377.
— , Bocchetta di Val 377.
Camadra, Cima 366.
— , Val 360.
Camana Alp, the 358.
Cambrena, Piz 398.
— Glacier, the 398. 406.
— Pass, the 398.
Cambriales, Piz 114.
Camedo 428.
Camerlata 449. 450.
Camnago 449. 450.
Camoghe (Val Piora) 108.
— ,Mte. (near Lugano) 425,
Camona, Alp 360.
Camoscio, Corno del 334.
Campascio, Piz 406.
Canipedello 412.
Camperio, Hospice 366.
Campertogno 439.
Campftr 388.
— , Lake of 388.
Campi, ruined castle 369.
Campiglia 282.
Campino 436.
Campioli 329.
Campione, Mtc. 448.
Campo (Val Bavona) 429.
— (Lake of Como) 446.
— (Val Viola) 407.
, Colle di 407.
, Corno di 407.
— , Val 411.
Valle di 407.
Campo Cologno 408.
— Dolcino 374.
— Moro, Val 398.
Tencia 429.
Campolungo Pass 429.
Camporciero, Val 279.
Campovasto 399.
Campsut 371.
Canardhorn, the 350.
Canaria Valley , the 105.
364.
CancianoPass, the 399.408.
Canicul 371.
Cannero 432.
Cannobbio (Lago Mag-
giore) 431.
Cannobbino, Val 431.
Canobbio (near Lugano.)
424.
Cantone Glacier, the 385
Cantii 450.
Canzo 449.
— , the Corni di 448. 449
Capella 400.
Capolago 386. 425.
Capriasca, Ponte 425.
Caprino, Monte 424.
Carale, Piz 398. 406.
Carate 446.
Carcoforo 439.
Cardinell, Gorge 373.
Careno 446.
Carimate 450.
S. Carlo (Lugnetz Valley)
359.
— (Val Bavona) 429.
— (Val Piora) 105.
— (Val Poschiavina) 408
— (Val Viola) 407. 413.
Carmenna Pass 356.
Carouge 215.
— , Chateau 202.
Carrel, Capanna 322.
Carrera 358.
Casaccia (Val Bregaglia)
382. 410.
— , Hospice on the Luk-
manier 366.
Casana, Val 400.
, Pass and Piz 400.
Casanella, Piz 399. 400.
Casanna, the 350.
Caslano, Monte 440.
Casneda 431.
Casnile Pass, the 385.
Cassano 449.
Cassarate 423.
— , Val 423.
Castagnola 433. 441.
Castasegna 412.
Castel, Chateau 25.
Castello 441.
, Cima di 385.
Castelmur, Ruin 411.
Castiel 356.
Castiglione 446.
d'Ossola 328.
Castione 377. 107. 409.
Castor, the 324.
S. Caterina, Baths 413.
S. Caterina del Sasso
431.
Catogne , Mont 286.
Catscharauls , the 114.
363.
Cauma Lake 359.
Caux, Mont 226.
Cavaglia 407.
Cavanna Pass, the 115.
303.
Cavardiras, Piz 114.
Cavel, Piz 362. 360.
Cavel-Joch (Somvixer
Thai) 362.
Cavell-Joch (Priitigau)
348.
Cavandone 302. 433.
Cavergno 429.
Cavio, Cima di 412.
Cavloccio Lake, the 385.
Cavorgia 363.
Cavreccia, Val 382.
Celerina 390.
Celigny 228. 216.
Cenere, Monte 422.
Cengalo, Piz 410.
Cenis, Mont 250.
Centovalli, Valley 428.
Centrale, Pizzo 111.
Ceppina 413.
Ceppomorelli 329.
Ceres 284.
Ceresole 284.
St. Cergues 218. 246.
Cerlier 190.
Cerniat 187.
Cernobbio 447.
Cervin, Mont 326.
— , Petit 325.
Cerv 222.
Cevio 428.
460
INDEX.
Chablais, the 239.
Chable 291.
Chables, Les 261.
Chailly 236. 224.
Chaine, La 196.
Chalame, Val 279.
Chalchagn, Piz 394. 397
Challant, Val 335. 336.
Challes 249.
Cham 71.
Chambave 278.
Chambery 248.
Chambesy 228.
Chambrelien 193.
Chamfer 388.
Chamois 322.
— , Col des 287.
Chamonix 257.
Chamosallaz 226.
Chamossaire, the 229.
234.
Chamouny, see Chamo-
nix.
Chamousset 250.
Champagna, Val 391.
Champ Babau 226.
Champ du Moulin 195.
197.
Champatsch, Piz 404.
Champel sur Arve 206.
213.
— (Montjoie- Valley) 271.
Champery 241.
Champex, Lac de 286.
Champlan 186. 336.
Champlong(Val deCogne)
282. 284.
— (Valtournanohe) 322.
Champorcher 282.
— , Fineatra 282.
— , Val 279. 282.
Champsec 291.
Chamuera, Val 399.
Chancy 246.
Chandolin 233. 314.
Chanelaz 197.
Chanrion 293.
Chapeau, the 260.
Chapieux, Les, or
Chapiu 273.
Chapis 284.
Chapiitsch, the 387.
Chapiitschin, Piz 397.
— , Fuorcla 398. 399.
Chardonnet, Aig. du 265.
— , Col du 265.
— , Pav. du 265.
Charlanoz, Chalets de
262.
Charmettes, Les 249.
Charmey 187.
Charmoz, Aiguille de 260.
Charnadura 390.
Charnex 225. 236.
Charvensod 277.
Chasseral, the 190. 193.
Chasseron, the 198.
Chaste, on the Lake of
Sils 386.
Chat, Mont du 248.
— , Dent du 248.
Chateau des Dames 321.
Chateau d'Oex 237.
— de Pierre 253.
Chatel 187.
Chatel St. Denis 235.
Chatelard 225.
Chatelard, Le 255.
— , Chateau 224.
Chatelet 233.
Chatillens 202.
Chatillon, in the Aosta
Valley 278.
— , in the Arve Valley
253.
— , on the Lac du Bourget
247.
Chaudron, Gorge du 226,
Chaulin 226.
Chaumont, the 192.
Chaussy, Pic de 234. 237.
Chauton 275.
Chaux-de-Fonds, La 194
Chavans en Haut 268.
Chavonnes, Lac des 229.
Chavornay 198. 204
Chaz-Seche, Colle di 282.
Ch^couri, Col de 274.
Cheggino 437.
Chemonal 334.
Chemin, Mont 286.
Chenalette, the 289.
Chene 253. 216.
Chenens 201.
Chermignon 181.
Chermontane,Grande292.
— , Petite 292.
Chermontane, Col de 312.
ChiSsalette, the 187.
Chesiere 229.
Chessel 241.
Ch^tif, Mont 274.
Cheville, Pas de 238.
Chevres, Pas de 293. 311.
Chevrier 262.
Chexbres 228.
Signal de 302.
Cheyres 201.
Chiaclavuot 353. 379.
Chiamut 364.
Chiapili di sopra 284.
Chiareggio 385.
Chiasso 426.
Chiavenna 374.
Chiesa 385. 398. 409.
Chiesaz, La 223.
Chietres 204.
Chiggiogna 106.
Chignin-les-Marches 249.
Chillon, Castle 226. 216.
225.
Chilnaux, Castle 201.
Chindrieux 247.
Chippis 314.
Chironico, Val 427.
Choglias, Val 405.
Choindez 10.
Chosalets, les 265.
Chougny 215.
Chrischona 8.
Chunetta, the 394.
Chur 345.
Churburg, Castle 416.
Churer Alpen, the 356.
Churer Joch, the 380.
Churfirsten, the 44.
Churwalden 380.
Cierfs 401.
Chignana 321.
Cima 441.
Cimalmotto 428.
Cimbro 432.
Cimes Blanches, Col des
336. 321.
Cingino, Pizzo del 302.
Cinuskel 400.
Ciprianspitz, the 348.
Ciraun 370.
Civenna 445. 449.
Civiasco 438.
Clarens 224. 225. 226.
Clariden, the 63. 114.
Claridengrat, the 114.
Clariden-Pass, the 63. 114.
Claridenstock, the 114.
Claro 107.
— , Pizzo di 107.
Clavadel 353.
Clavalit^, Val 278. 282.
Cleuson, Col de 291.
Cleva Grossa, Alp 336.
Clugin 371.
Cluse, La, near Pontarlier
196. 205.
— , Montague de la 248.
Cluses 264.
Cocco, Forcarella 427.
Codelago, Lake of 305.
Coglio 428.
Cogne 281.
— , Col orFenetre de 282.
Coire 345.
Coiro 436.
Col des Roches 194.
Colico 375. 410.
CoUa 425.
CoUognasca 428.
Collon, Col de 311.
— , Mont 311.
INDEX.
461
CoUon, Petit Mt. 312.
Collonge 239.
Collonges 246.
Colma, Col di 438.
Cologny 216. 239.
S. Colombano, Corno di
407. 414.
Colombey 241.
Colombier 197.
— , the 247.
Colonges 225.
Colonno 446.
Coltura 411.
Columbe, Passo 366. 105.
Comabbio, Lago di 432.
Comacina, Isola 446.
Comano 424.
Combal Lake 273.
Comballaz 237.
Combin, the Grand 273.
287. 292.
Combin de Corbassiere,
the 289. 291.
Combloux 251.
Comboe 277. 281.
Cornelia, Passo di 428.
Como 448.
— , Lake of 442.
Comologno 428.
Concise 197.
Concordia Hut, the 157.
174. 304.
Condemine 289.
Confinale, Monte 413.
— , Passo 399.
Conflans 250.
Constance 28.
— , Lake of 27. 216.
Constantia Hut 315.
Contamines sur St. Ger-
vais 271.
— sur Arve 253.
Conters 349. 356.
Conthey 239. 294.
Contra 427.
Convers, Les 193.
Conversion, La 202.
Coppet216. 228.
Corbario, Castello 107.
108.
Corbassiere, Glac. de 291.
— , Combin de 293.
Corbeyrier 229.
Corcelles, near Neuchatel
193.
— , near Avenches 201.
— , near Grandson 198.
Corconio 302.
Corenno 443. •?'
Corgemont 11. 193.
Corjeon, Dent de 236.
Coma Rossa Pass 409.
Cornaux 190.
Cornera, Passo della 306-
— , Val 364.
Cornet, Piz 404.
Cornin, Port de 248.
Corno, Val 307.
Coroi, Piz 360.
Coronas, Colle di 282.
Corridor, the 263.
Corsier 239. 216.
Cortaillod 197.
Cortlis 335.
Corvatsch, Piz 387. 397.
— , Glacier 388. 397.
Corvo, Piz 366.
Cosio-Traona 410.
Cossogno 433.
Cossonay 199. 204.
Costainas, Pass 404.
Costassa, Beeco 282.
Cote, La 219. 228.
Cotschen, Piz 401.
Cottens 201.
Courfaivre 10.
Courgenay 10.
Courmayeur 274.
Cournere, Col de 321.
Couronne, Col de 316.
Courrendlin 10-
Court 10.
Courtes, Les 265.
Courtetelle 10.
Couvet 196.
Coux, Col de 242. 256.
Cozzera 360.
Cramont, the 275.
Crampiolo 305.
Crana 428.
Crans, Chateau de 218.
Crap Alv 362. 379.
Long 45.
Crasta 387.
Crastagiizza 397.
Crasta Mora 379. 399.
Crastota 395.
Craveggia 428.
Craverola, Passo di 428.
Cray, Mont 237.
Cremenaga 440.
Cremia 443.
Cremine 10.
Cresogno 441.
Cresper-Spitz, the 419.
Cressa-Fontaneto 302.
Cressier 190.
Cresta in the Averser Thai
371.
in the Engadine 390.
— , Lake 368.
Crestalta 388.
Cresus 187.
Cret, Col du 291. 310.
Cretaz 281.
Crete Seche, Col de 292.
Cretes, Chateau des
224.
Creton 283.
Creux du Van , the 196
— de Champ, the 234.
Creva 440.
Crevola 300. 308.
Cribiasca, the 106.
Crin 428.
Criner Furca, the 308.
428.
Crion, Mont 256.
Crispalt, the 364.
Cristallina Furca , the
429.
Cristallina, Piz 366. 429.
— , Passo 366.
— , Val 365. 429.
Cristannes, Piz 404.
Cristolais 391.
S. Croce 412.
Crocione, Monte 445.
Crodo 308.
Croix, la 234.
— , Col de la 229. 234.
Ste. Croix 198.
Crosa Alp, the 330.
Crot 371.
Croy 204.
Crozlina, Alp and Glacier
429.
Cruet 249.
Crugnolo 432.
Crusch 404.
Cruschetta, la 404. 416.
Crusinallo 302.
Cubli, Mont 226.
Cucciago 450.
Cuccione, the 441.
Cudrefin 204.
Cuera 345.
Cugnasco 426.
Culet, the 242.
Cully 216. 228.
Culoz 247.
Cumbels 360.
Cuorgne 285.
Curaglia 365.
Curciusa Glacier 375.
— , Piz 376.
Curfirsten, the 44.
Cursolo 431.
Curtinaccio 412.
Curtins 381. 387.
Curtnatscherhof 358.
Curver, Piz 370. 381.
Cusio, Lago 437.
Cuvio, Val 449.
Cusy 248.
Cuzzago 301.
Dachsen 26. 31.
Dachsfelden 10,
462
INDEX.
Dagmersellen 20.
Daigra 36(1.
Dailly 361.
Dala, the 180. 181. 295.
Dala Glacier, the 182.
Dalaas 418.
Dalley, Case, du 267.
Dallenwyl 117.
Dallikon 19.
Dalpe 429.
Dalvazza 349.
Dammafirn, the 108.
Dammapass, the 108. 126.
Pammastock, the 125.
302.
Dangio 367.
Danikon 21.
Danofnen 418.
Dard, Cascade du 233.
262.
Dardina 361.
Darligen 145.
Dartgas, Piz 63.
Datwyl 22.
Daube, the(Gemmi) 179.
— (Scheinige Platte) 150.
Daubenhorn, the 179.
Daubensee, the 179.
Davos am Platz 352.
— Dorfli 351. 352.
Davoser See, the 351. 352.
— Landwasser, the 351.
352.
Dazio Grande 106.
Pecco, Alp 334.
Degioz 283.
Deitingen 14.
Delebio 410. 443.
Delemont 9.
Delle 10.
Delsberg 9.
Dent Blanche, the 326.
313.
,' Col de la 313.
, Glacier de la 313.
Dentro, Val di 407.
Dents Blanches, the 242.
Dents de Veisivi 309.311.
Derborence, Lac de 238.
Derendingen 17.
Dervio 443.
Desago 424.
Desio 460.
Devens 230.
Devera-Alp 306.
— , Val 305. 308.
Devil's Bridge, the 109.
Diablerets, the 233. 234.
238.
Diablons, the 315.
— , Col des 318.
Diavel, Piz del 379.
— , Passo del 401.
Diavolezza, La 396.
Diechterhorn, the 126.
Dielsdorf 46.
Diemoz 278.
Diesbach 61.
Diesrut, Pass 360.
Diessenhofen 26.
Dietfurt 58.
Diethelm, the 42
Dietikon 19.
Dietlikon 46.
Digg 358.
Dintikon 18. 21.
Diosaz, Gorges de la 255
Dischma-Thal , the 348.
351. 352.
Disentis 362.
Disgrazia, Monte della 386.
409.
— , Capanna della 409.
Distelalp, the 330.
Distel Glacier, the 297.
Distelhorn, the 297.
Diveria, the 300.
Divonne 217.
Di.x, Val des 309. 312.
Dixenze, the 309.
Dogern 23.
Doire, the 273. 276.
Doldenhom, the 178.
Dole, the 218.
Dolent, Mont 274.
Dolf, Piz 358.
Dollfus, Pavilion 174. 162.
Dollone 274.
Dom, the 326. 332.
Domaso 443.
Domat 357.
Domdidier 203.
Dom-Joch, the 332.
Dominikhohle, the 94.
Domleschg, the 368.
Domo d'Ossola 301.
Dompierre 203.
Donath 370.
Dondenna 282.
Dongio 367.
Dongo 443.
Donnas 279.
Dopleschv^and 128.
Dora Baltea, the 273. 274.
276. etc.
Dorio 443.
Dornach 9.
Dombirn 420.
Doron, the 250.
Dosde, Pizzo dl 407.
Dossen, the 91.
Dossenhorn, the 167.
Dossenhiitte , the 167.
172.
Dottikon 18. 21.
Diittingen 22.
Douanne 190.
Doubs, Cotes du 194.
— , Saut du 195.
Douglass Hut 418.
Drance, the, in the t'ha-
blais 239.
— , in the Valais 232. 26^^.
285. 291.
Drecklochalp 62.
Dreilanderspitze, the 419.
Drei Sch western, the 339.
Dreisprachenspitze, the
415.
Drinc, CoUe del 282.
Droites, Les 265.
Dronaz, Pic de 289.
Dru, Aiguille du 260.
Drasenfluh, the 419.
Drusenthor, the 349.419.
Duana, Passo della 372.
412.
Duana, Pizzo della 411.
Diibendorf 42.
Dubino 375.
Ducan Pass, the 353.
Ducan, Piz 353.
Diidingen 199.
Dufour-Spitze , the 326.
330. 335.
Duggia Valley, the 438.
Duin, Tour de 230.
Duingt, Chateau 251.
Dundelsbach, the 122.
Diindenhorn, the 178.
Diinden Pass, the 156.
Dungel Glacier 184. 233.
Durand , Glacier de (in
the Val d'Heremence)
292. 310. 311.
, in the Val de
Zinal 313. 315. 316.
— , Col 316. 328.
— , Mont 316.
Duranna Pass, the 355.
Durgin, Piz 63.
Durnant, Gorges du 285.
Diirrenasch 130.
Dtirrenberg, the 155. 156.
176.
Diirrboden, the 353.
Diissistock, the 113.
Dynhard 31.
Dza, Col de 321.
Eau, the Grande 229. 234.
— Noire, the 242. 266.
Eben Glacier, the 415.
Ebenalp, the 56.
Ebenrain, Chateau of 12.
Ebihorn, the 316.
Ebikon 71.
Ebligen 170.
Ebnat 58.
INDEX.
463
Ebneauh, the 157.
Ebnellah-Joch, the 157.
Ebneten Alp 115.
Ebnit 233.
Ecandies, Col des 286.
Echallens 222.
Echelle, Pas de T 215.
— , Pierre a Y 263.
Echevenoz, Les 289.
Eclepens 192. 204.
Ecluse, Fort de r 246.
Ecoulaies, Glacier des 291.
Ecublens 202.
Effingen 18.
Efiretikon 42. 46.
Egelshofen 31.
Egeri, Ober and UnterOS.
Egerkingen 12.
Eggenalp, the 296. 325.
Eggenschwand 178.
Eggersried 53.
Egginerhorn, the 332.
Eggishorn, the 304.
Eginen, Valley of 303. 307.
Eglio, Lago d' 431.
Eglisau 47.
Egnach 31.
Egua, Col d' 439.
Ehrenfels 369.
Ehrlose, the 129.
Eichbuhl 139.
Eielenegg 94.
Eigenthal 77. 127.
Eiger, the 162.
Eiger Glacier, the 159.
Eigerhbhle, the 162.
Eigerjoch, the 163.
Eiken 18.
Einfischtbal, see Val
d'Anniviers.
Einshorn, the 372.
Einsiedeln 96.
Eisboden, the 161.
EisenAuh, see Isenfluh.
El, Pont d" 276.
Elgg 48.
Elm 67.
Emanev, Col d" 242. 267.
Emd 3i8.
Emdthal 176.
Emet, Lago di 372.
— , Alp 372.
Emilius, Mt. 278.
Emmen 129.
Emmenbrucke 20. 129.
Emmenmatt 128.
Emmenthal, the 17. 128.
Emmetten 79. 80.
Emmishofen 31.
Ems 357.
Encel, Pas d' 242.
Enclaves, Col d' 273.
End der Welt, the 118.
Engadine, the 383.
Enge, near Bern 133. 139.
— , near the Giesshach
171.
Engelberg 118.
— , the 118.
Engelberg-Roth.stnck,the
119. 84.
Engelhorn, the 167.
Engethal, the 154.
Enggistein 129.
Engi 67.
Engstlenalp, the 124.
Engstlensee, the 125.
Engstligen Alp 177.
Engstllgengrat, the 177.
181.
Engstligenthal, the 177.
Ennenda 60.
Ennetbuhl 58.
Ennetlinth 64.
Enney 236.
Entfelden 20.
Entlebuch 127.
Entova, Val 387.
Entrelor, Colle d' 283.
Entremont, Val d' 285.
Entreroches, Canal d' 198.
Entreves 274.
Enzisweiler 51.
Epagny 235.
Ependes 198.
Epinel 281.
Eplatvires 194.
Eptingen 13.
Erba 449.
— , Piano d' 449.
Erde 239.
Ergolz, the 12. 17.
Erguel, chat. 193.
Eringer Thai 309.
Erlach 190.
Erlen 47.
Erleubach in the Sim-
menthal 186.
— on the Lake of Zurich
39.
Erlimoos 13.
Erlisbach 13. 21.
Ermatingen 25. 31.
Erraensee 130.
Ermitage, Balmes de 1"
216.
Err, Piz d' 382.
— , Val d' 381.
Err Glacier 382.
Errjocli, the 382.
Erstfeld 102.
Erstfelder Thai, the 102.
Ervillitre 282.
Erzegg, the 124.
Erzingen 23.
Eschenbach 129.
Eschenthal, the 300.
Eschenz 25. 31.
Escher-Canal, the 44. 60.
Eschia, Val d' 399.
Eschlikon 48.
Escholzmatt 128.
Esel, the 93.
Esen, Piz d' 400.
Esino 444.
Essets, Col des 230.
Estavayer 201.
Estelette, Glacier de V
273.
Etablons, Col des 290. 294.
Etivaz 237.
Etoile, Mont de T 310.
Etrembiere, Castle 253.
216.
E troubles 289.
Etseh, see Adige.
Ettenberg, the 70.
Ettingen 8.
Etzel, the 96.
Etzli Alp 363.
Etzlithal, the 110. 113.
Etzweilen 31. 24.
Eugensberg 25. 31.
Euthal, the 98.
Evencon, the 279. 336.
Eveque, the 311.
— , Col de r 311. 312.
Evian 239. 240.
Evionnaz 231.
Evires 262.
Kvithal, the 103.
Evolena 310.
Ewig - Schneehoru , the
163. 167. 174.
Excenevrex 239.
Evenalp, the 331.
Eyrs 416.
Eysee, Lake 169.
Fadiira 348.
Faderhorn, the 329.
Fafler Thai 157.
Fahlen, Lake of 57. 59.
340.
Fahrwangen 130.
Faido 106.
Fain, Val del 396. 406.
Faldumpass. the 182.
Faldum-Rothhorn, the
182
Falkenfluh, the 139. 149.
Falknis, the 340.
Fallbodenhubel, the 160.
Faller, Alp 334.
— , Val da 382.
Fallere, Mt. 278.
Fallerhorn, the 334.
Fallerjoch, the 382.
Fallern 15.
464
INDEX.
Fang 314.
Faoug 203.
Fara 439.
Fardiin, ruined Castle 370.
Farnbiihl, the Baths of
127.
Fiirnigen 127.
Fatschbach, the 64.
Faucigny, Castle 253.
Faucille, Col de la 218.
216.
Faulberg, the 159.
Faulen, the 62. 65.
— , the Bose 62.
— , the Hohe 102. 103.
Faulenberg, the 168.
Faulensee,thel02.144.170.
Faulensee-Bad 144. 171.
Faulhorn, the 163.
Faverges 251.
Favet, Le 254.
Fedoz, Vadret da 386.
— , Val 387.
Fee 332.
— Glacier, the 332.
Feisson.s-souB -Briancon
250.
Felben 47.
Feldkirch 419.
Feldmeilen 39.
Felikjoch, the 327.
Fellaria Glacier, the 398.
— Chalets 398.
FeDers 359.
Felliliicke, the 103.
Felli Thai, the 103.
Felsberg 357.
Felsenburg, the 178.
Felsenegg 38. 71. 149.
Felsenhom, the 177.
Felsenthor, the (Rigi) 85.
86.
Fenetre, Col de (Gr. St.
Bernard) 289.
— (Val de Bagnes) 293.
— , Glac. de 293.
Fenis, Castle of 278.
Fer-a-Cheval , Vallee du
256.
Ferden 182.
Ferden Pass, the 182.
— Rothhorn 182.
Feriolo 301. 434.
Fennel, Valley of 183.186.
Ferney 215.
Ferpecle 312.
— , Glacier de 309. 310.
Ferrera 371. 439.
— Valley 371.
Ferret 274. 289.
Ferret, Col 274. 289.
— Valley of 274. 275.
Ferro, Sasso del 432.
Festi Glacier, the320. 326.
Fettan 402.
Feuerstein, the 121. 128.
136.
Feuerthalen 23. 24.
Feuillerette-Alp 181.
Feusisberg 40.
Fex-Glacier, the 387. 399.
— , Valley of 387. 398.
Fex-Koseg, Fuorcla 398.
Fex-Scerscen , Fuorcla
387. 399.
Fianell-Pass 381.
— , Piz 381.
Fibbia, the 111.
Fidaz 358.
St. Fiden 49.
Fideris 349.
— , Baths of 349.
Fiderisau 349.
Fieno, Passo 406.
Fier, the 252.
— , Defile du 248.
, Gorges du 248.
Fiernaz 322.
Fiery 336.
Fiesch 304.
Fiescher Glacier (Grin-
delwald) 162.
— , (Valais) 175. 304.
Fiescher Grat 163.
Fiescherhorn, the Kleine
163.
Fiescher Joch, the 163.
Fiesso 106.
Figino 425. 440.
Filisur 378.
Fillar, Chalets de 330.
Fillarkuppe, the 327.
Fillarpass, the 327.
Fille-Dieu, La 201.
Filzbach 44.
Fimber Pass 405.
Findelen 325.
Findelen-Glacier, the 325.
326. 331.
Finero 4:!1.
Finestra, Colle della 283.
Finge 296.
Finhaut 267.
Finsteraar Glacier 162.
175.
Finsteraarhorn 174. 304.
Finsteraarjoch, the 162.
Finstermiinz 4i7.
— , Pass of 417.
Hoch 417.
Fibnney 291.
Fiora 83.
Fiorina, Val 308. 429.
Fisistock, the 178. 179.
183.
Fiume Latte, the 444.
Flaine, Lac de 264.
Flamatt 199.
Flaschenlochquelle 42.
Flascherberg, the341.
Flatzbach, the 391. 392.
Flawyl 48.
Fleckistock, the 109.
Flegere, the 261.
Flembach, the 358.
Flendrnz 188.
Fless Pass, the 350.
Fless, Val 350.
Fletschhorn, the 299.
Fleurier 196.
Flies 417.
Fliesbordkamm 67.
Fliess Alp 57. 59.
Flims 358.
Flimser See, the 369.
Flimser Stein 358.
Flirsch 418.
Floria, Aig. de la 261.
Florins 403.
Fluchthorn, the 402.
Fliiela-Pass, the 351.
— , Valley 351.
Fluelen 83. 101.
Fluh, village 420.
Fluh Alp, the 181. 182.
325. 331.
Fluh Lake 184.
Fliih Lakes, the 382.
Flnhberg, the 42.
FluUen 8.
Fluhli 128.
Fliihmatt, the 118.
Flumet 250. 262.
Flums 45.
Fluntem 32.
Fobello 439.
Follaterres, les 232.
Folly, La 275.
Fond de la Combe 256.
Fondo Toce 302.
Fonds, Vallde des 266.
— , Col des 256. 267.
Fongio 105.
Fontainemore 335.
Fontana 303. 429.
Chistaina 405.
Fontaneto 302.
Fontauna, Alp 353.
Foo-Pass, the 68. 46.
Foppa Pass, the 344.
Foppiano 308.
Fora, Piz 387.
Foraz, Piz 404.
Forbisch, Piz 382.
Forcellina, the 371.
Forchetta, Passo di 298.
Forclaz, Col de la, near
St. Gervais 254.
INDEX.
465
Forclaz, Col dc la, near
Martigny 267. 268.
— , Val d'Herens 310. 312.
Forcletta, Pa.'i de la 318.
Forcola, Passo della37f
Forest Cantons, the 77.
Formazza Valley 308.
Fernet 284.
Forno Glacier, the 385.
— , Mte. 385.
— Pass, the 385. 410.
— , Scatta del 428.
Foroglio 429.
Foron, the 255.
Fort, Mont 291.
Foseagno Pass 414.
Fouillv, Le 254. 255.
Fours," Col des 272.
— , Pointe des 272.
Ste. Foy 275.
Fraele, Val 414.
Frakmund, Alp 94.
Frambourg 205.
Franzenshohe 415.
Fraschels 197.
Frastanz 419.
Frau, the 178.
Frau, the Weisse 178.
— , the Wilde 176. 178.
Frauenbalmhiitte the
156. 176. 178.
Frauenfeld 47.
Frauenkirch 352.
Frauenthor, the 360.
Fraxinado-Alp 300.
Freibergen tKigi) 86.
Freiburg 199.
Fremd-Vereina 350.
Frenieres 230.
Frenkendorf 12.
Frenkenthal, the 12.
Frete de Sailles 230.
Frety, Mont 274.
Freudenberg, the 49.
— , Ruins 342.
Fribourg 199.
Frick 18.
Fridau 12. 14.
Friedrichshafen 28.
Frienisberg 204.
Frisal, Piz 361.
Yj^j 3g|
Fr'oda Fall,' the 107.
Frohburg, the 13.
Frohnalpstock, the (near
Bninnen) 82.
Frolichsburg, Ruin 416.
Frolichsegg 57. 49.
Fromberghom, the 142.
Fronalp, the 60.
Fronalpstock (near 61a-
rus) 60. 45. 67.
Fronbach, the 298.
Fronscha, La 362.
Frontenex 250.
Frudiera, Punta 33.5.
Fruitier, Pav. du 264. 274
Friimsel, the 44.
Friindenhorn, the 178.
Frundenjoch, the 178.
Frutbach, the 64.
Frutberg, the 64.
Fruth, Auf der 307.
Fruthwald 308.
Frutigen 176.
Fruttli 87.
Fuentes, Ruin 375. 410.
Fuldera 401. 404.
Fuorcla Prievlusa 398.
Fuorn 400. 401.
Furca, the 116.
— , the Criner 308.
Furcla, Piz 363.
Furcletta, the 356. 400.
Furgg Alp 332.
Furgg Glacier 301. 321.
Furgg .Toch, the 327.
Furgg Valley 301. 331.
Furggenbaumhorn, the
298.
Furggle, the 63.
Furka, the 116.
Furkahorn, the (Furka)
116.
— (Arosa) 356.
Furkel, the 62.
Fiirrenalp, the 119.
Fiirrenbach, the 118.
Fdrstenau, Castle 368.
FUrstenburg, Castle 416.
Furth 360.
Furtschellas, the 386.
Furtwang Sattel 126.
Furva, Val 413.
Fusio 429.
— , Val 429.
Fusshorner, the 297. 305.
Futschol Pass, the 402.
Gabelhorn, the 315. 327,
Gabiet Alp, the 334.
Gabris, the 53.
Gabv 335.
Gadinen 126. 325.
Gadmenthal, the 126.
Gadmer Fliibe 124. 126.
Gagenhaupt, the 324.
Gaglianera, Piz 360. 361.
Gais 54. 57.
Galbiga, Monte 445.
Galenhiitten, the 116.
Galenstock, the 116. 302.
Galese, Col de 285.
St. Gall, Hospice 366.
Gallarate 436. 432.
Gallegione, Piz 371. 412,
BAEDEKKii, Switzerland. 13th Edition.
St. Gallen 48.
Gallenkirch 419.
Gallina, Piz 303.
Gallivaggio 374.
Galmhorn, the 181.
Galmis 187.
Galmitz 204.
Galtur 402.
Gamchi Glacier 156. 176.
Gamchiliicke, the 156.176.
Gammerrhein, the 364.
Gampel 179. 182. 295.
Gams 59. 340.
Gamser Glacier 299.
Gamser Joch 299.
Gamsliicke 174.
Gamsstock, the 110.
Gandria 441.
Gannerathal, the 419.
Ganter Bridge, the 298.
Gantrist Pass 141. 187
Gargellenthal, the 419.
Garin, Punta 282.
— , Colle di 282.
Carina, Cima 366.
Garlate, Lago di 448.
Garschenthal, the 115.
Garstatt 187.
Garstelet Glacier 327. 335.
Garzirola, Mte. 425.
Gaschurn 419.
Gassenried Glacier 333.
Ga,«itern 183.
Gastern Valley, the 157.
178. 183.
Gasterndorf 183.
Gasternholz 183.
Gastlose, the 187.
Gatschiefer, the 349.
Gatterli 90. 91.
Gauer Thai, the 419.
Gauli Glacier 167. 172
174.
— Pass 167. 174.
Geant, Col du 264. 274.
Ge'ant, Aiguille du 260.
264.
— , Dent du 264.
Glacier du 259. 264.
Geant, Grotte du 321.
Gcbhardsberg, the 420.
Geierspitz, the 56.
Geissberg, the 119. 124.
Geissholz 167.
Geisspfad Pass, the 306.
Geisterspitze, the 415.
Gele, Mont 292.
Gelfingen 130.
Gellihorn, the 179.
Gelmerhorn, the 173. 302.
Gelmersee, the 173.
Geltenbach, the 178. 183.
Gelten-Glacier 188. 238.
30
400
INDEX.
Gelten Pass, the 233.
(jelterkinden 12.
Gemeinen Wesen, Alp
57. 59.
Gemmenalphorn 145. 151.
Gemmi, the 179.
Gemsfayrenstock, the 62.
114. ■
Gemshorn, the 343.
Gemamattli, the 92.
Gemsstein, the 334.
Generoso, Monte 425. 440.
Geneva 205.
— , Lake of 216.
Geneveys, Le.s Hauts- 193
Geneveys sur-Cotfrane
193.
Genf, see Geneva.
Genthalalp, the 123.
Genthod 217. 228.
Gentilino 423.
St. Georgen, near St. Gal-
len 57.
— , Chapel, in the Rhine
Valley 368.
— in the Jura 219.
— (Val de Rhemes) 283.
Gera 431.
Geren P; ss 303.
Gerenthal, the 303.
St. Germain 275. 279.
Germanello 446.
Germignaga 440. 431.
Gerona, Val 448.
Gers, Lac de 256.
Gersau 79.
Gerschni Alp, the 125.
Gerstenhorn, the 302.
St. Gertrud 415.
St. Gervais 254.
— , Baths of 254.
Geschenen (Reuss Valley),
see Goschenen.
— (Rhone Valley) 303.
Geschenen-Alp 1(B.
Gessenay 188.
Gessens, Phare de 248.
Gestelnburg, the 296.
Gestler, see Chasseral.
Gets, Les 240. 256.
Gex 218.
— , Pays de 218.
Gfall Alp 183.
Ghemme 439.
Ghiffa 432.
Ghirone 360.
S. Giacomo on the Ber-
nardino 376.
— in the Lire Valley 374.
— near Sedrun 363.
— d'Ayas 336.
— di Fraele 401. 413.
— Pass, the 308. 1(15.
St. Gian 391.
S. Giano 432.
Oiarsun 393. 401.
Giavino 439.
Gibloux, the 201.
Gibswyl 47.
Giebel, the 65.
Glerm, Val 363.
Giessbach, the 170.
Giessen 305.
— Glacier 159.
Gie'troz, Glacier de 292.
312.
— , Alp 292.
— , Hotel du 292.
Giettaz, La 252.
GifiVe, the 242. 253. 256.
Giglistock, the 126.
Gignese 436.
Gignod 290.
Gilly 219. 228.
Gimel 219.
Gimmelwald 155.
Gingins 218.
St. Gingolph 240.
Giomein 321.
St. Gion, Hospice 366.
Giop, Alp 390.
Giordano, Punta 321.
Giornico 107.
S. Giovanni, Island in the
Lake of Como 446.
— , — in the Lago Mag-
giore 433.
GiselaQuh, the 21.
Gisikon 71.
Giswil 122.
Git, Piz 113. 363.
Gitschen, the 83. 102.
Gittana 443.
Gitte, the 250. 272.
Gitzi-Furgge,thel81. 182
Giubiasco 421. 430.
Giuf, Val 363.
S. Giulio, Island 437.
Giumaglio 428.
Giumella Pass 377.
Giumels, the 378.
S. Giuseppe, Cantoniera
112.
Glacier, Col du 271.
Glaciers, Les 272.
Glaciers, Glacier des 271
272.
— , Val des 272.
Gland 223.
Claris, see Glarus.
— in the Davos 352.
Glarnisch, the 66.
— , the Hinter 66.
— , the Mittel 66.
— , the Rucben 66.
— , the Vorder 61. 66
Glarnischbiitte, the 02.
Glarus 60. 353.
Glas 370.
Glas Pass, the 358. 369.
Glattenfirn 119.
Glattfelden 47.
Gleckstein, the 165.
Glenner, the 358. 360.
Gl^resse 190.
Gletsch, Im 116. 302.
Gletscberalp , the , near
Fee 332.
Gletscherhorn, the 126.
157. 185.
Gletscherstaffel 297. 305.
Gletschhorn, the 115.
Gliems Glacier 63.
Gliemspforte, the 63.301.
Glims, Alp 401.
Glion fGri.sons) 359.
Glis 296. 297.
Glishorn, the 296. 297.
Glockthurm, the 417.
Gloggeren, the 50.
Glovelier 10.
Gliina, Piz 404.
Gluringen 30'i.
Glurns 416.
Gluschaint, Piz 387. 392.
397.
, Fuorcla 398.
Gnepfstein, the 92.
Gnifetti, Capanna 327.
335,
— , Punta 329. 335.
Gnof, Alp 113.
Goldau 100.
Goldbach 17. 39.
Goldei, the 149.
Golderen 168.
Goldiwyl 141.
Goldswyl 149. 169.
Golese , Col de 242. 276.
Goletta, CoUe 283.
Golise, Cul de la 285.
Gollien, Cima di 283.
Golzern Alp, the 113.
Gomagoi 415.
Gondo 300.
Gonten, Baths in Appen-
zell 48. 52.
— on the Lake of Thun,
see Gunten.
Gontenbad 48.
Gonzen, the 46. 340.
Goppenstein 182.
Gorbs-Bach, the 344.
Gordola 427.
Gordona 374.
Gorezmettlen Alp 127.
Gorgier 197.
Corner Glacier, the 320.
324. 325.
INDEX.
467
Gorner, Gorges du 323.
— Grat, the 323.
Goschenen 104. 108.
— Thai, the 108.
— Alp, the 108.
Gosgen, Castle of 21.
Gossau 48.
Gotschna, the 350.
S. Gottardo, Sasso di 111.
Gotteron , Pont de 201.
St. Gotthard, the HI.
— , Pass of 111.
— , Hospice 111.
— , Railway 99.
— , Road 103. 108.
— , Tunnel 104.
Gottlieben 25. 31.
Gottmadingen 24.
Gottschalkenberg 9G. 98.
Gotzis 420.
Gouille, Mt. de la 287.
Goule, La 194.
Goumois 194.
Gouter, Dome du 263.
— , Aiguille du 263.
Gozzano 302.
Grabs 59.
Grafenort 118.
Graggihutte 126.
Graian Alps, the 280.
Grammont, the(Chablais)
240.
— (near Courmayeur)
see Cramont.
Grancrou, Col de 282.
Grand Bornand 252.
Grand Combin, the 287.
291. 292.
Grand Cornier 313. 315.
— , Col da 313.
— Crou, CoUe 282.
— Desert 291.
— Moeveran, the 230.231.
— Moulin 322.
— Paradis 283.
— St. Pierre, Tour du
282. 285.
— Plateau 263.
— Saconnex 215.
— Saleve 215.
— Tournalin 322.
— Villard 236.
Grande Dent 311.
— Fourche 265.
— Gorge, the 215.
— Sassiere, Aig. 276.
Grandes Roches, the 222.
Grandola 441.
Grands-Montets, Col des
265.
Grands-Mulets, the 263
Grandson 198.
Grandval lU.
Grandvaux 202.
Granfelden 10.
Granges Marnand 203.
Neuves 291.
Granges, Les 267.
Granier, Mont 249.
Gran-Serre, the 283.
Sometta 336.
Grapillon, Pas du 274.
Griiplang, Ruins 45.
Grasonet 265.
Grassenpass, the 119.
St. Grat 277. 281.
Gratschlucht Glacier 116.
Graubunden, the Canton
344.
Grau-Haupt, the 336.
Grauhorner, the 344.
Graun 416.
Grauson 281. 282.
— , Vallone di 281. 282.
Graustock, the 124.
Gravasalvas, Fuurcla di
382.
Gravedona 443.
Gravellona 300.
Greierz 236.
Greifensee, the 42.
Greifenstein, Castle 339.
378.
Greina Pass, the 360.
Grellingen 9.
Gremenz 314.
Grenchen 16.
Grengiols, Bridge of 306.
Grenoble 249.
Grenzach 22.
Grenz Glacier, the 327.
Gressan 281.
Gressoney St. Jean 334.
— la Trinite 334.
Gresy-sur-Aix 248.
— sur-Isere 250.
Gresv, Cascade de 248,
Greyerz 236.
Grialetsch Glacier 351.
Griatschouls, Piz 400.
Griaz, La 270.
— , Glacier de 255.
Gries Glacier, the(Valais)
307.
— (Clariden) 63. 114.
— (Todi) 63.
Gries Pass, the 307.
Grieset, the 62.
Griessen 23.
Griessen Glacier, the 119.
Grigna, Monte 444.
Grignaseo 439.
Grimence 314.
Grimisuat 186.
Grimmenstein, Ruins 50.
Grimmi, the 186.
Grimsel, the 175.
— , Hospice, the 173.
Grindelalp, the 165. 166.
Grindelwald 160.
— Glaciers 161.
Grins 418.
Griosch 405.
Grisch, Piz 371. 381.
Grisanche, Val 280. 284.
Grisons , Canton 344.
Grivola, the 281.
— Glacier, the 281.
Grodei 183.
Groisy-le-Plot 252.
Grond, Piz 359.
Gronda, Val 382.
Grono 377.
Gros-Jean , Tete du 238.
Grosina, Val 413.
Grosio 413.
Grosotto 413.
Gro.ss-Lauteraarhorn 162.
Gross-Litzner, the 35U.
Gross-Nesthorn 182.
Gross-Schreckhorn 162.
Gross-Seehorn 350.
Gross-Spannort, the 119.
Gross-Strabel, the 177.
Grossthal, the 61. 84.
Gross- Vermunt-Alp 419.
Gross -Wannehorn 304.
Grotte aux Fees, the 230.
— aux Fours 197.
— du Geant 321.
Grub 53.
Gruben 318.
Grubenberg, the 187.
Gruben Pass 349. 419.
Grum , Alp 407.
Griindjetobel 355.
Griine Alp 353.
Griinenberg, the 151.
Griinhorn Hut 63.
Grunhomliicke, the 174.
Griinsee, the 325.
Griisch 348.
Grusisberg 141.
Griitli, see Riitli.
Gruyeres 236.
Griize 47.
Grynau, Castle 43.
Gryon 230.
Gschwandenmad - Alp.
the 167.
Gspaltenhorn, the 176.
Gspon 319.
Gstad 233.
Gsteig , near Interlaken
149.
— , Sarine Valley 233.
— , on the Simplon 300.
Gsteigthal, the 233.
Gsteigwyler 146. 149. 150.
30*
468
INDEX.
Gsfiiht-rtach, the 65.
Guarda 401.
Guardavall , Ruin.s 400.
Oiida Glacier 360.
Giiferhorn, the 376.
Gufern-Alp 113.
Guferplatten-Alp 127.
Gugel, the 323.
Gugelberg, the 41.
Guggerniill, the 372.
Guggi Glacier 159. 162.
— Hut, the 159. 160.
Giiggisgrat, the 145.
Guin 199.
Gula, Ponte della 439.
Gumniih, the laS. 237.
Giimlingen 129. 139.
Gummegg, the 129.
Gummenalp 151.
Gummihorn, the 149.
Giindlischwand 150.
Gtinten 143.
Guppen-Alp 61.
Giirbenbach, the 151.
Gurbethal, the 141.
Gurf 308.
Giirgaletsch, the 380.
Gurnigel, the Upper 141.
187.
Gurnigelbad, the 141.
Gurro 431.
Gurschenstock, the 110.
Gurten, the 139.
Gurtepohl 419.
Gurtnellen 103. 104.
Guschenkopf, the 343.
Giischihorn, the .806.
Guspis Valley 110.
Giissfeldtsattel 398.
GUtscb, the (Lucerne) 76.
— (Brunnen) 81.
Guttannen 172.
Guttenberg, Castle 340.
Giittingen 30.
Guz, Piz 387.
Gwachtenhorn, the 126.
Gwjirtler, the 124.
Gwatt 183. 186.
Gydi-sdorf 160.
Gyrenbad, the 47.
Gyren.spitz, the 56.
Haag 340. 59.
Habkern 150.
Habsburg, Ruins 22.
— , Neu-, Chateau 95.
Hacken, the 98.
Hiigendorf 14.
Hagrigenbach, the 104.
Hagnau 28.
Hahnenberg, the 118.
Hahnenmoo.'', the 177.
Habneuscbritthoru 233.
Ilaihiitzli, the 68.
llaldenstein 341.
— , Chalets 341.
Hallwyl 129.
— , Lake of 129. 130.
Haltenegg, the 141.
Hammetschwand, the 91
Handegg Falls 172.
Hangendgletscherhorn,
the 167.
Hangbaum-Alp , the 84.
Hanggiessen, the 13.
Hanghorn, the 118.
Hannig Alp, the 332
Hard, Chateau 25. 31.
Harder, the 149.
Hasenmatt, the 16.
Hasenstock, the 84.
Hasle 17. 128.
Haslen 57. 61.
Haslen See, the 60.
Ha,sli-Grund 171.
Hasli-Jungfrau, tlie 165.
Hasli-Scheidegg, the 166.
Hasli, Valley of, or
Haali im Weissland 168.
171.
Hasliberg, the 123. 168.
Hatzingen 61.
Hauderes 310.
Hauenstein 13. 23.
-, the Obere 13.
— , Tunnel of 13.
Haupter Alpe, the 355.
Hauptweil 47.
Hauruthi 72.
Hansen, on the Albis 71.
Hausstock, the 68. 60.
Haute-Combe, Monastery
248.
Haute -Luce 250.
Hauteville 248.
— , Chateau 224.
Hauts-Geneveys, Les 193.
Hedingen 70.
Heerbrugg 339.
Heidegg 130.
Heidel Pass, the 46.
Heiden 52.
Heider See, the 380. 416.
Heiligenschwendi 141.
Heiligkreuz 87. 128. 306.
Heimberg 140.
Heimwehlluh, the 148.
Heinrichsbad 48.
Heinzenberg 358. 368.
Heldsberg 339.
Ste. Helene, the 283.
Ste. Helene des Millieres
250.
Helsenhorn, the 306.
Hemishofen 24. 25.
Hendschikon 18. 21.
HrngKart 32.
Henniez 203.
Herhageres, Mont des 269.
Herbetet, Col de V 283.
Herbetet, Mont 283. 284.
Herblingen 24.
Herbrigen 320.
Heremencc 310.
— , Val d' 310.
Herens, Col d' 313. 328.
— , Dent d' 328.
— , Val d' 309.
Hergiswyl 91. 120.
Herisau 57.
Hermance 239.
Herrenriiti 119.
Hcrrgottswald 77.
Herrliberg 39.
Hertenbiihl 164.
Herteustein 78.
Herthen 22.
Herzogenbiichsee 17.
Hettlingen 32.
Heuboden Alp 60.
Heustrichbad, the 176.
Heuthal, the 406.
Heutte, La 11.
Hexenkessel, the 176.
Hildisrieden 130.
Hilfikon 130.
Hilterfingen 143.
Hindelbank 17.
Hinterburg See 171.
Hintergasse 418.
Hinter-Meggen 95.
Hinterrhein, Village 375.
Hinterrhcin, the 375.
Hintere Rothe, the 126.
Hinterruck, the 44.
Hinweil 42.
Hirli, the 370.
Hirondelles, Col des 264.
Hirschberg, the Obere 54.
Hirzboden 177.
Hirzel 72.
Hirzelhohe 72.
Hirzli, the 45.
Hitzkirch 130.
Hochbalen Glacier 333.
Hochdorf 129.
Hoch-Ducan, the 353.
Hoch-Etzel, the 96.
— -Finstermiinz 417.
HochOuh 24. 79. 90. 171.
306.
Hochkarpf, the 81.
Hochmaderer, the 419.
Hoch-Ryalt, Ruin 369.
Hochstuckli, the 99.
Hochwacht (Albis) 38.
— , nearRegensberg 46.
— , on the Zugerberg 71.
Hoch-WiilUingen 46.
INDEX.
469
Hockenhorn, the 183.
Hofersalpe, the '299.
HoffnuDgsau 354.
Hofwyl 12.
Hohberg Glacier 326.
Hohbuhl, the 149.
Hohe Brisen, the 84.117.
Hohe Faulen, the 102
103.
Hohe Kasten, the 55. 340.
Hohe Licht, the 335.
Hohe Mesmer, the 56.
Hohenems 420.
Hohenklingen 25. 31.
Hohenrain 129.
Hohen - Rhatien 369.
Hohenstollen 124. 168.
Hohentwiel 24.
Hohe-Rhonen, the 96.
Hohe-Thurm, the 62.
Hohflaschen Alp 42.
Hohfluh 168.
Hohgant, the, 151.
Hohgleifen, the 182.
Hohle Gasse, the 95.
Hohlicht Hut 327.
Hohlicht Glacier 320.
Hohsaas 299.
Hohsand, Alp 307.
Hohsand Glacier 305.
Hohthiiligrat, the 324.
Hohthiirli Pass, the 156.
— Clubhut 156.
Hohwang Glacier 316.
Hcille, the 126. 375.
Hollengraben, the 295.
Holstein 12.
Holzegg, the 101.
Homberg, the 129. 130.
Homburger Thai 13.
Hone-Bard 279.
Honegg 91.
Hopital 250.
Hopitaux, Les 205.
Horbachgutsch 71.
Horben, Schloss 21. 129.
Horbisthal, the 118.
Horgen 38. 40. 72.
Horger Egg, the 72.
Horn 30. 50.
Hornfeli Alp, the 109.
Hornli, the 324. 350.
Homussen 18.
Horw 120.
Hospenthal 110.
Hospitalet, V 288.
Hottingen 32.
Houchea, les 254. 270.
Hoyerberg, the 51.
Hubeli, the 141.
Huemoz 229.
Hiili Alp, the 114.
Hull Glacier, the 113.114.
Iliifi Pass, the 114.
Iliigisattel, the 174.
Hiihnerstock 112. 115.
IliUleuhorn, the 306.
Hundschiipa, the 123.
H iindRhorn,the Great 156
lliinegg. Chateau 141.
Hunggigiitsch 71.
Hun/.enschwyl 21.
Hurden 41. 96.
Hurnberg, the 128.
Hutegg 333.
Hutmad Alp 176.
Hutstock, the 119. 122.
Hutten 40. 96.
Ibach 99.
Iberg 99.
Iberger Egg 99.
Iffigen, Chalets 185.
Ifligen Fall, the 185.
Ifligensee, the 184.
Ignes, Case, des 311.
Ilanz 359.
lies, Les 265.
Illgraben, the 205.
lllhorn. the 314.
Illiez, Val d' 241.
Illklamm, the 419.
Im Boden 172.
Imfeld 305.
St. Imier 193.
Immensee 95.
Immensee-Kiissnach 95.
Iinmenstaad 28.
In den Friinden, Alp 178.
Incino 449.
Inden 181.
Indren Glacier 327.
Ingenbohl 99. 101.
Inkwyl 17.
Inn, the 391. 400. etc.
Innere Thurm, the 381,
Innerthal 41.
Innertkirchen 171.
Ins 204.
Inschi 103.
Inschi Tunnel 103.
Intelvi Valley, the 441.
Interlaken 145.
Intra 433.
Intragna 428.
Introbbio 443.
Introd, Chateau 233. 284.
Introzzo 443.
Invergnan, Becca dell'
284.
Invergneu.x, Passo d''282.
Ippolita Pass 327.
Ischa, Alp 353.
I sella 333.
Iselle 298. 3110.
Iseltenalp, the 149.
Lseltwald 169. 171.
Isenau.\ 234.
Isenlluh 152.
Isenfhal, the 83.
Isere, the 249. 250.
Isla Persa 397.
Isleten 83.
Islikon 47.
Isola in the Engadine 386.
— on the Spliigen 373.
Isola Bella 434.
— S. Giovanni 433.
— 51 ad re 435.
— del Pescatori 435.
— Superiore 435.
Isolaccia 407.
Isolella-Vanzone 439.
Isorno, Val 428.
Ispra 430.
Issime 335.
Issogne 279.
Itramen Alp 162.
Ivrea 280.
Jacobsbad 48.
Jacobshiibeli , the 140.
St. Jacob (Isenthal) 84. 98.
— (Unterwaldeni 92.
.liigerhorn , the 327. 329.
.liigerjoch, the 328.
Jagernstcicke, the 64.
Jagerriicken, the 330.
Jaillet, Col 257.
Jaman, Dent de 236.
Janian , Col de la Dent
de 236.
.lamthal, the 402.
Janzo, Ca' di 335.
Jardin (Chamonix) 261.
— (Argentiere) 265.
Jatzalp, the 68.
Jaun 187.
Jaun, Valley of 187.
Javernaz, Croix de 230.
.Tazzi, Chalets de 330.
— , Cima di 326.
— Glacier, the 328. 330.
Jiizzihorn, the 301.
Jazzikopf, the 827.
.Tazzi Pass, the 327.
St. Jean 314.
St. Jean d'Aulph 240.
— de Maurienne 249.
— de Sixt -252.
Jenatz 349.
Jenins 341.
Jenisberg 354.
St. Jeoire 255.
Joch Pass, the 125.
Joderhorn, the 330.
St. Johann 41.
— am Platz 352.
— , Alt 58.
470
INDEX.
St. Johann, Neu 53.
.Tohannisburg 41.
Joli, Col 250. 271.
-, Mont 254. 271.
Jolimont, the 190.
Jomein 321.
St. Jon 404.
— , Piz 404.
Jona 42.
Jonswyl 58.
Jorasses, the 260. 264.274.
.Torat, Mont 220.
Jordila 220.
S. Jorio, Passo di 443.
Jori Glacier 350.
— Lakes 850.
Jori-Fless Pass, the 350.
St. Joseph am Giinsbrun-
nen 10.
Jougne 205.
Jouplane, Col de 240. 256.
Joux, La 265.
— , Col de 335.
— , Fort de 196. 205.
— , Lac de 205.
Jouxtens 222.
Jovencan 281.
Jovet,' Plan 272.
Juchli, the 118. 122.
Juchlistock, the 122.
Juf 371.
Julia, the 381. 382.
St. Julien 246.
Julier, the 382.
Julier, Piz 382. 388.
Jumeaux, Les, see Zwil-
linge.
— du Vallon 321.
Jungen 318.
Jung-Pass, the 318.
Jungfrau, the 158.
— , the Hasli- 165.
Jungfraiijoch, the 163.
Jupiter, Plan de 290.
Jura, the 9. 14. 192. 193.
etc.
Jurten, see Mont Jorat.
Justisthal, the 144.
Kaferberg, the 46.
Kagiswyl 121.
Kaien, the 53.
Kaiseraugst 17.
Kaisereggschloss, the 201.
Kaiserstuhl, the 84. 122.
— on the Rhine 47.
Kalchthal, the 126.
Kalfeuser Thai, the 46,
68. 344.
Kalkberg, the 372.
Kalkstock, the 102. 114.
Kalli, the 162.
Kallnach 204.
Kaltbad, the (Rigi) 86. 87.
Kaltbrunn 43.
Kaltbrunnenkehle 108.
109.
Kaltenbrunn 417.
Kaltwasser Glacier 299.
Kammer Alp 62.
Kammerstock, the 62.
Kammli Alp 114.
Kammliliicke, the 114.
Kammlistock, the 114.
Kamor, the 53.
Kanal Glacier 360.
Kanalthal, the 360.
Kander, the 170. 177.
183. etc.
Kander Glacier, the 157.
Kandergrund 177.
Kandersteg 178.
Kiindle, the 186.
Kapfenberg, the 44.
Kappel on the Albis 71.
— in the Toggenburg 58.
Karpfstock, the 60.61.
Karrenalp, the 65.
Karrenegg, the 42.
Karrholen, the 151.
Karstelenbach, the 103.
112.
Kasern 65.
Kiiserruck , the 45. 59.
Kaatanienbaum 91.
Kastelen-Alp, the 77. 93.
Kastelhorn, the 308.
Kastris 358.
Katzensee, the 19.
Katzenstrick 98.
Katzenzagel, the 65.
Katzis 368.
Kaunserthal, the 417.
Kavestrau Grond 361.
Kehle Glacier 108. 126.
Kehlen Alp 126.
Kehlhof 40.
Kehrbachi 307.
Kehrsatz 141.
Kehrsiten 91.
Kemptthal 46.
Kerenzen-Berg, the 44.
Kerns 121.
Kernwald, the 121.
Kerzers 204.
Kesch, Piz 353. 378. 399.
Kesswyl 30.
Kienthal 176.
Kiesen 139.
Kilchberg 39. 41.
Killwangen 19.
Kinzig Pass, the 65.
Kippel 182.
Kirchberg 28.
— , the 62. 65.
Kirchcnthurucu 141.
Kirchet, the 171.
Kirchspalt Glacier 155.
Kistenpass, the 63.
Kistenstein, the 355.
Kistenstockli, the 63.
St. Klaus 121.
Klausen-Pass, the 64.
Klein-Basel 3.
Buin, the 350.
Lohner, the 177.
Spannort 119.
Klein-Thai, the, in the
Canton ofGlarus 61. 67.
, in the Canton of
Uri 84.
Kleinthalfirn, the 84. 119.
Klenenhorn, the 279.
Klimsenhorn, the 93.
Klingnau 22.
Klonthal, the 66. 61.
Klonthaler See, the 66. 61.
Klcisterli (Rigi) 87.
Klosters 349.
Klostersche Stiitz 351.
Klosterthal, the 418.
Klus in the Gastern Valley
183. 179.
— in the Jura 12.
— in the Priitigau 348.
— near Weissenburg 187.
Knonan 71.
Koblenz 47.
Kohlerenschlucht 140.
Kohlgrubli 67.
Kohlthal, the 80.
Kollbrunn 47.
Kolliken 20.
Konigin, Alp 307.
Konigsfelden 18.
Konolflngen 129.
Krabelwand, the 87.
Kradolf 47.
Krahenwald 53.
Kranzbergfirn, the 157.
Krattigen 176.
Krauchthal, the 67.
Krayalp, the 57. 59.
Krazern Pass, the 58. 48.
Kreuz, the 349.
Kreuzberg, the 403.
Kreuzlingen 30.
Kriegalp Pass, the 306.
Kriens 76. 73. 94. 120.
Kriesiloch, the 94.
Krinnen, the 185. 233.
Krinnenfirn, the 166.
Kronbuhl 49.
Kronlet, the 102.
Krottenstein, Ruins 34l.
Krummenau 58.
Kriizli Pass, the 114. 363.
Kiiblibad, the 145.
iKiiblis 349.
INDEX.
171
Kiihalphorn, the 363.
Kuhalpthal, the 353. 354
Kiihbodengletscher 303.
Kiihbodenhorn lit. 303.
Kiihlauenen Glacier, the
159.
Kummenalp, the 183.
Kunkels 344.
Kunkels Pass, the 344.
Kiipfen 356.
Kurfirsten, the 44.
Kurzegg 49. 54.
Kurzenburg, the 49.
Kiisnacht on the Lake ol
Zurich 39.
Kiissnacht on the Lake of
Lucerne 95.
Kyburg, the 47.
Laa.x 35S.
Lac Noir 201. 229. 233.
Lacerandes , Pointe de;
289.
Lachat, Mont 270.
Lachen 41.
Ladis, Baths 417.
Lagalb, Piz 406.
Lagant, Alp 418.
Lager, Chalet 155.
Lagerngebirg, the 19. 46.
Laghetto, Passo di 427.
Laglietto 334.
Laglio 446.
Lago, Cima di 371.
— , Alpe del 427.
Lago Bianco 406.
— Maggiore 430.
— Minore 406.
— Nero 283. 406.
— Spalmo, Ciraa di 407.
Lagone, Val 407.
Lagrev, Piz 389. 382.
Lai 381.
Laiblau, Piz 363.
Lain 381.
Laisch, Alp 403.
Lammerbach-Alp, the
Upper 114.
Lammern Glacier, the
177. 179. 185.
Lammernjoch 177. 181.
185.
Lamone 422.
Lampertsch Alp 360.
Lancebranlette, the 275.
Lancettes , Glacier des
271.
Lancey 292.
Landeck 417.
Landenberg, the 121.
Landeron 190.
Ijandm;irk 3J0.
Landquart 341. 318,
Landskron 8.
Langen 418.
Langenbruck 12.
Langenegg 53.
Lange Fluh, the 332.
Langenthal 17.
Langnau 128.
Langneibad, the 141.
Langtauferer Thai 416.
Lang-Thai, the 306.
Languard, Piz 396.
Langwies 355.
Lank 57.
Lanterna, Val 398. 409.
Lanzada 398. 409.
Lanzo 441.
Laquin Valley 299.
Laquinhorn, the 299.
Laquinjoch, the 299.
Laret, Ober and Unter-
351.
Laret', the Alp 390. 404,
Lasa, Alp 344.
Lasnigo 449.
Lat, Piz 405.
Latelhorn, the 301. 332.
Latsch 378.
Latscher Kulm, the 378.
Lattenfirn, the 63.
Latterbach 186.
Laubegg Alp 45.
Laubeggstalden, the 187.
Laubergrat, the 119.
Lauberhorn , the 160.
Lauchbiihlhiitte 166.
Laucherhorn, the 150.
Lauchernalp 183.
Laucherspitze, the 182.
Laudegg, Ruins 417.
Lauenen 123. 233.
— , Valley of 233.
Laufbodenhorn 184. 185.
Laufellingen 13.
Laufen, Schloss 27.
Laufen on the Birs 9.
Laufenburg 23.
Lauinenthor, the 157.
Laupen 199.
St. Laurent 252. 286.
Laurenzenbad 13. 21.
Lausanne 216.
Lansen 12.
Lauteraar Glacier 174.
163.
Lauteraarjoch 163. 174.
Lauterbrunnen 152.
Scheidegg, the 159.
Lautrach 420.
Lauzon, Colle 283.
Lavancher 261. 265.
Lavaz, Val 362.
Lavazjoch, the 362.
Lavcua 440,
Laveno 430. 432.
Lavertezzo 427.
Lavet Alp .327.
Lavey, Baths of 231.
Lavin 401.
Lavina, Punta 282.
Laviner Joch 350.
Lavirum Pass 399.
— , Piz 399.
Lavizzara, Val 429.
Lavorgo 106.
Lax 306.
Layaz, La 234.
Lebendun Lake 305.
Lecco 448.
— , Lago di 447.
Lechaud, Col 256.
L(«cherette, La 237.
Leckihorn, the 112.
Leckipass, the 112.
Led, Piz 387.
Leggia 377.
Leggiuno 430.
St. Legier 223.
Leggiuno 430.
Legnano 436.
Legnone, Monte 443.
Legnoncino, Monte 443.
Lei, Valle di 371.
Leimboden. the 124.
Leisse, the 248. 249.
Leissigen 145. 176.
Leistkamm, the 44.
Lejs, Piz dels 406.
Leman, Lac 216.
Lemenc 249.
Lemo, Monte 425.
Lenk 184.
Lenno 446.
Lens, Pas du 286.
Lenta-Liicke, tlie 360.
Lenta Valley 360.
Lenz 355. 377. .381.
Lenzburg 21. 130.
Lenzer Hcide, the 381.
Horn, the 380.
St. Leonard 294.
Leone, Monte 299. 300.
Lerow 145.
Lesa 435.
Leschaux, Col de 251.
-, Glacier de 259.
Lesina, Val della 443.
Leiierfall, the 56.
Leuggelbach 61.
Lenggelstock, the 61.
Leuk 181. 295.
— , Baths of 180.
— , Station of 295.
Levanna, Mte. 284.
Leventina, the 106.
Leviona. Chalet.-; 283.
Lcvo 436.
472
INDEX.
Leysin 229. 234.
Lezzeno 446.
Liappey 292. 310. 311.
Lichtenberg, Castle 416.
Llchtensteig 58.
Liddes 286.
Liechtenstein, Ruins 340.
341.
Liechtenstein, Princip. of
340.
Liedernen 83.
Lieli 129.
Lierna 447.
Liesberg 9.
Liestal 12.
Lietingen 10.
Lieu, Le 205. 219.
Ligerz 190.
Lignerolles 204.
Lillianes 335.
Liramat, tlie 18. 33. 46 etc.
Limmern Glacier 63.
Limmernthal, the 63.
Limonta 447.
Linard, Piz 400. 401.
Lindau 51.
Lindenberg, the 129.
Lindenhof 37. 51.
Linth, the 41. 60. 62.
Linth Canal, the 43.
— , Colony of the 43.
Linththal 62.
Linty, Capanna 327. 335.
Lion, Col du 326. 327.
— , Tete du 321.
Lipplisbiihl 65.
Liro, the 373. 374.
Lischanna, Piz 404.
Lischanna, Vadret 404.
Littau 127.
Litzner, the 350.
Liverogne 276.
Livigno 399. 400. 4U6.
— , Forcola di 407.
Livinen-Thal, the 106.
Livournea, Col de 278.
Livrio, Val 409.
Lizerne, the 238.
Lobbia 411.
Locana 285.
Locarno 427.
Loccie, Col delle 334.
— , Punta delle 334.
Lochau 420.
Lochberg, the 108.
Lochlibetter 57.
Lochlipass, the 358.
Locle, Le 194.
Loco 428.
Loderio 367.
Loeche-Ville 181.
les-Bains 180.
Souste 295.
Loffelhorn, the 303.
Loges, Col des 193.
Loggio 441.
Lognan, Pav. de 265.
Lohlen Pass 384.
Lohner, the 177.
Loita 436.
Lomazzo 450.
Lombard 286.
Lona, Pas de 313.
London, the 246.
Longacqua 407.
Longeborgne 294.
Longirod 219.
Longone 449.
Lonza, the 182.
Lopper, the 120. 122.
Lora, Punta di 282.
Lorenzhorn, the 376.
Lorze, the 71. 72. 98.
Losis, Alp 45.
Losone 428.
Lostallo 377.
Lostorf 13. 21.
Lothenbach 95.
Lcitschen Glacier 183. 305.
Lcitschenlucke 182. 305.
Lotschen-Pass, the 183.
Lotschenthal, the 182.
Lottigna 367.
Loueche, see Loeche.
Lourtier 291.
Louvie, Col de 291.
Lovagny 248.
Lovenex, Lake of 240.
Loveno 444.
Lowerz 89. 100.
Lii 401. 404.
St. Luc 316.
St. Luce 220.
Lucel 311.
Lucendro, Piz HI.
— , Alp 111.
— , Lake of 111.
— , Passo di 112.
Lucens 202.
Lucerne 74.
— , Lake of 77.
Luchsingen 61.
Lucinges 255.
S. Lucio, Pass of 425.
Ludiano 367.
Ludretikon 39.
Ludwigshohe , the 327.
Luette 310.
— , La 292.
Lugano 422. 441.
— , Lake of 440. 441.
Lugnetz Valley, the 360.
Lugrin 246.
Luino 431. 440.
Luisettes, the 287.
Luisin, the 267.
Luknianier, the 360.
Lumbreda, Piz 386.
Lumbrein 360.
Lumino 377.
Lumpegnia, Alp 362.
Luna, Mte. 344.
Liiner See. the 418.
Lungern 122.
Lungern, Lake of 122.
Ltinghino, Piz 385.
— , Lake 385.
— , Fuorcla di 372. 385.
Liirlebad 347.
Liisch, Lake of 369.
Liischerz 190.
Luseney, Bee de 278.
Liisgen-Alp 296.
Lussery 2U4.
Liissai 404.
Lustbiihl, the 149.
Luterbach 14.
Liitholdsmatt 94.
Liitisburg 58.
Lutry 216. 222. 228.
Liitschenthal, the 158.
Liitschine, the 146. 152.
169 etc.
— , Gorge of the 152.
— , the Black 152. 158.
161.
— , the Sefinen 155.
— , the White 152. 155.
158.
Lutzelau 78.
— , Island of 40.
Liitzellliih 17.
Luvino 431.
Luvis 359.
St. Luzienberg, the 340.
St. Luziensteig, the 340.
343.
Luzzone, Val 361.
Lyrerose, Glacier de 293.
312.
Lys , Cort 335.
Lys Glacier, the 327. 335.
Lys Joch, the 327. 335.
Lyskamm, the 326. 335.
Lyskammhiitte , the 335.
Lys Valley, the 279. 335.
Lyss 11. 204.
Lyssach 17.
Maasplankjoch 109. 126.
JIaccagno 430. 431.
Macolin 11.
Macugnaga 329.
— Glacier 330. 334.
Macun 401.
Madatsch Glacier, the 415.
Spitz, the 415.
JIaderanerthal, the 112.
Madesimo 373.
INDEX.
473
Madesimo, Passo di 372.
Madlain, Piz 404.
Madlenerhaus 419.
3Iadonna del Monte (near
Varese) 449.
— di Monte (near Big-
naseo) 429.
— della Bocciola 43S.
— di Campagna 433.
— di S. Martino 445.
— del Sasso on the Lago
Maggiore 427.
near the Lake of
Orta 438.
Madonna di Tirano 408.
Madrano 105.
Madrera, Val 448.
Madriser Thai 371.
Madrishorn, the 350.
Madulein 379. 400.
Magadino 430.
Magenhorn, the 299.
JIagenvvvl 21.
Maggia 428.
Maggia, the 427. 428. 431.
Maggia, Val 428.
Maggiore, Lago 430.
Magglingen 11.
Magisalp, the 168.
Magland 254.
Magliasina, Val 425.
Magliaso 425. 440.
Magreglio 449.
Maienfeld 340. 343.
Maienwand, the 175.
Maierhof 360.
Maigels-Pass 364.
— , Val 364.
Maikirch 2W.
Mainau, Island of 30.
Maira, the 410.
Maisons Blanches, the
286.
, Col des 287. 292.
Majing Glacier, the 181.
Majinghorn, the 182.
Maladers 3.55.
Malans 340.
Malanser Alp 68.
JIalenco, Val aSo. 409.
Malero, the 385. 409.
Malesco 428. 431.
Malgrate 448.
Malix 380.
Mallerav 10.
Mallet, Mont 260.
Malnate 449.
Maloggia, or
Maloja, the 384. 409.
410.
Mais 416.
Malser Heide, the 416
Matters 127.
Malvaglia 367.
S. Mamette 424. 441.
Mammern 25. 31.
Mandello 444. 44^.
Manghach, the 419.
Maniggrund Valley 186.
Mannas, the 348.
Mannedorf 40.
Mannen, the 68.
Mannenbach 25. 31.
Mannenberg, Castle 187.
Mannlichen 160. 162.
Maran 356.
Marbach 25. 31.
Marbrees, Aiguilles 264.
St. Marcel 278. 282.
— , Col de 282.
— , Vallone di 282.
Marcellaz 248.
Marcelly, Pointe de 276.
Marchairuz, Col de 219.
205.
Marchhorn, the 308.
Marcio, Pizzo 372.
S. Marco 300.
— , Passo di 410.
Marenberge, the 64.
St. Margarethen 339. 343.
S. Margherita, Capanna
284.
Margna, Piz 382. 387.
Margorabbia, the 430.
432.
Margozzolo, Mte. 436.
S. Maria Maggiore 428.
S. Maria del Soccorso 446.
St. Maria der Engeln,
Monastery 58.
S. Maria, Hospice on the
Lukmanier 366.
— in the Miinsterthal
401. 404. 414.
— in Val Sesia 439.
— on the Stelvio 414.
Sonnenberg, Chapel
80.
— , Muot 386.
— , Val 366.
Mariahilf, Xunnerv of
99.
Mariastein 8.
Marienberg on the Adige
410.
— near Rorschach 50.
Marignier 253.
Marin 193.
Marinelli. Capanna (Mte.
Rosa) 330.
— (Bernina) 397. 398.
Marjelen Alp 304.
Marjelen See, the 304.
Markelfingen 24.
Marlens 251.
Marlioz 247.
Marly 201.
Marmore, Muot 386.
Marraorera 382.
Marnein 348.
Maroggia 441.
Marscholhorn , the 375.
376.
Marstetten 47.
Marthalen 32.
Martigny 232. 218.
Martigny-Bourg 242. 268.
285.
St. Martin in the Kalfeu-
.ser Thai 46. 68.
— in the Lugnetz Valley
359. 360.
— near Aosta 281.
— Cliarvonnex 252.
Martinet, Glacier de 2.30.
S. Martino (Val Masino)
410.
— (near Lugano) 423. 440.
— , Forcella di 410. 411.
— , Madonna di 445.
^, Sasso 445.
Martinsbruck 405.
Martinsloch, the 68. 358.
Martinstobel, the 49. 50.
Marv, Mt. 290.
Masino 385. 409. 410.
— , Val 410.
Massa, the ,306.
Massagno 422. 424.
Massongex 242.
Mastallone, Val 438.
Masuccio, Piz 413.
Mathon 370.
Matmoire, the 278. 321.
Matran 201.
Matt 68. 67.
Mattalp, the 94.
Matten near Interlaken
151. 147.
— near Lauterbrunnen
156.
— in the Upper Sim-
menthal 183. 186.
Matterhorn, the 326.
— , the Little 330.
Matterjoch, the 321. 336.
Mattervisp, the 323. 324.
Matthorn, the 92.
Mattraarksee, the 331.
Mattmark Weissthor 331.
Mattwald Glacier 299.
Mattwaldhorn, the 299.
Maudit, Mont 264.
Mauensee, the 20.
Mauremont, the 198.
St. JIaurice 230.
Maurienne, the 250.
S. Maurizio, Monte 449.
474
INDEX.
Mauvais Pas 260. 266.
Mauvoisin 292.
Mayen, la Tour de 229.
Mayenbach, see Meicn-
bach.
Mazzo 413.
Medel , Piz 360. 366.
Mede), Mompe 362.
Medels 375.
Medelser Glacier, the362.
365.
Medelser Thai, the 365.
Meeralp, the 68.
Jleersburg 28.
Megeve 250.
jSIeggen 95.
Meggeuhorn, the 78. 95.
Meglisalp, the 57.
Meiden 318.
Meiden Pass, the 317.
Meidenhorn, the 317.
Meien 127.
aieienreuss, the 104. 127.
Meienthal, the 127.
Meierhof 352.
Meilen 39.
Meilleret, Pointe de 234.
Meillerie 240. 246. 223.
Meina 435.
Meina, Col de la 310.
Weiringen 168.
Weisterschwanden 130.
Meitschlingen 103.
Melchsee, the 121. 124.
Melchthal, the 121.
Meldegg, the 50. 339.
Melide 425. 440.
Meilen, Piz 63.
Mellichen Valley 331. 332.
Mellig, the 332.
Mellingen 22.
Mello,Valdi385.410.411.
Jlels 45.
Menaggio 444.
Mendrisio 425.
Mengasia, Val 374.
Menoge, the 254.
Menthon, Chateau 251.
Menzberg, the 127.
Menzikon 130.
Menzingen 96. 71.
Menzonio 429.
Mer de Glace, the, near
Chamonix 260.
— , near Grindelwald 162.
Mera, the 374. 382. 410.
Mera, Val 407.
Mergoscia 427. 428.
Mergozzo, Lago di 302.
Mergozzolo, Mte. 436.
Meribe 310.
Merignier, the 287.
Merjelen Alp, the 304.
Merjelen See, the 304.
Jlerlenalp, the 45. 61.
Merligen 144.
Meschino 40S.
Mesocco 377.
Mesolcina, Val 376.
Mesoncle,s, Col de 283.
Messernalp, the 306.
Mettelbach Fall 65.
Mettelhorn, the 326.
Mettenberg, the 162.
Mettlen 57.
Mettlenalp 128. 159.
Mettmenstetten 70.
Metzerlen 8.
Meyenfelder Furca 356.
Meyriii 246.
Mezaun, Piz 400.
Mezdi, Piz 401.
Mezza Selva 349.
Mezzem, Piz 400.
Mezzola, Lago di 374.
Miage, Glacier de 264.
271. 273.
— , Col de 264.
Michel, Piz 378. 380.
St. Michel 250.
S. Michele 308.
Midi, Aiguille du 255.
260. 262. 263.
Midi, Dent du 242. 267.
Mieussv 256.
Milan i50.
Milar, Val 363.
Milchbachloch, the 161.
Milez 364.
Mine, Mont 312. 313.
Mine, Glacier duMt. 312.
Minger, Val 404.
Minor, Val 406.
Minschun, Piz 402. 404.
Minusio 428.
Miolans, Castle 249.
Misaum, Alp 395.
Mischabel, the 324. 332.
Mischabel Joch, the 332.
Misox, Ruins 377.
Misoxer Thai, the 376.
Mission 315.
Mitlodi 61.
Mittagfluh, the 187.
Mittaggiipli, the 92.
Mittaghorn, the 157. 185.
332. 376.
Mittagstock, the 102.
Mittelhorn, the 165.
Mittelzell 24.
Mittenberg, the 347.
Mitthal 182.
Mittholz 178.
Moanda, Bocchetta 439.
Jlodane 250.
Moesa, the 107. 376.
Moesola, Lago 376.
— , Piz 376.
Mceveran, Grand 230. 238.
Mogno 429.
Mohlin 18.
Moine , Aiguille du 260.
Moiry, Glac. de 312. 314.
315.
— , Val 314.
Mole, the 256.
Mol^son, the 235.
Mollia 439.
Mollis 60.
Mols 45.
Moltrasio 446.
Morning, the 315. 328.
— Pass, the 316. 328.
Momo 302.
Mompe Medel 362.
— Tavetsch 363.
Monbaron, Colma di 280.
Monch, the 162.
— , the Schwarze 153.
Monchalpthal, the 350.
Mcinchenstein 9.
Monchhiitte 159. 162.
Monch Joch, the 163.
Moncodine, the 444.
Moncorvd, Alp 283.
Mondadizza 413.
Mondelli Pass, the 329.
Mondin, Piz 417.
M(uidmilchloch, the 04.
Money, le 282.
— , Colle 282.
Mongia, the 394. 398.
Monnetier 252. 215.
Monstein in the Davos
352.
— on the Rhine 339.
Mont, Col du 284.
Montagna s. Heinzenberg.
Montagnaia, Col de 278.
Montailleur 250.
Montalto Dora 280.
Montandayne , Becca de
284.
Montanvert 259.
Montavon, the 419.
Montbarry 235.
Mont Blanc, the 263.
Mont Blanc de Seilon
292.
— du Taeul 262. 264.
— , Pav. du 274. 264.
— , Rocher du 264.
Montbovon 236.
Mont Bruli?, Col du 312.
328
Montbrun, the 233.
Mont Durand, Glacier du
292.
Monte'es, les 255.
INDEX.
475
Montenvert, ihe 259.
Monterascio-Pas8 361.
Slontets, Col des 266.
Monthey 241.
Montjoie Valley, the 254.
271.
Mont Joli 254.
Mont jo vet 279.
— , defile and castle of
279.
Montmelian 249.
Montorfano 302. 449.
Montoz, the 10.
Montreux 225. 228.
Montriond 240. 239.
Montrottier 248.
Mont Rouge, Col du 293.
312.
Mont Ruan, Glacier du
242.
Montsalvens, Ruins 187.
Monvalle 430.
Monza 450.
Mora, Val 413.
Morast 307.
Morat 203.
— , Lake of 203.
Morbegno 410.
Morcles 231.
— , Dent de 230. 231.
Morcote 440.
Morel 306.
Morgarten 98.
Morge, the, in Savoy 240.
— , the, in the Cant, of
Valais 233. 239. 294.
Morgenberghorn, the 151.
176.
Morgenhorn, the 176. 178.
Morges 219. 228.
Morgeten-Alp, the 187.
Morgex 276.
Morghen 329.
Morgin 241.
Moriana, Passo della 439.
Morigen 190.
Morignone 413.
— , Serra di 413.
St. Moritz (Engad.) 389.
— , Baths of 388.
— , Lake of 390.
Mornex 216. 253.
Moro, Monte 330.
Mopobbia, Val 425.
Morrissen 359.
Morachach 81.
Morschwyl 49.
Mort, Mont 289.
Morteau 194.
Mortel, Piz 397.
— , Club Hut 395.
Morteratsch, Piz 392. 397.
— Glacier 393. 397.
Mortirolo, Monte 409.
Morzine 240. 256.
Mosen 130.
Mosses, Les 237.
Motiers 196.
Grotte de 196.
Motta, La 407.
Mottelischloss, the 50.
Mottelon 239.
Motterone, Monte 436.
Mottets 272.
Motto 367.
Moud, Colle di 334. 439.
Moudon 202.
Moulins, Les 237.
Muuret, Le 201.
Moutier in the Jura 10.
— , Val 10.
Moutiers en Tarentaise
250.
Mouton, Tete du 317.
Muccia Glacier, the 376.
Muggio 426.
Muhlau 21.
Muhlebachthal 45. 67.
Miihlehorn 44.
Muhlen 382.
Miihlerain 347.
Muhlestalden 125.
Miihlethal, the 124. 125.
Mulcts, the Grands 263.
Mulinen in the Kander
Thai 176.
— near Interlaken 151.
Mulins 35S.
Mulkerblatt, the 184.
Mullheim 47.
Mumpf 18.
Miinchen-Buchsee 12.
Mundaun, Piz 359.
Munsingen 139.
Miinster on the Birs 10.
— • on the Lake of Con-
stance 24.
— , Grisons 416.
Valais 303.
Miinsterlingen 30.
Miinsterthal, the(Grisons)
401.
— in the Jura 9. 10.
Muota, the 65. 99. etc.
Muotathal 65. 89. 101.
Muottas, Sass da 390.
Muraigl, Alp 396.
— , Muottas 391. 396.
Muranza Valley, the 414.
Muraun, Piz 362. 365.
Muraz 239. 242.
Muretto, Monte 385.
— Pass, the 385. 409.
Murg on the Rhine 23.
— on the Lake of Wal-
lenstadt 45.
Murgenthal 16.
Murgsee Furkel 45. 61.
Murgthal, the 45.
Muri 21.
Murinascio 105.
Miirren 154.
Murten 203.
Murtener See, the 203.
Murtera 401.
— , Piz 404.
Milrtschenalp, the 45. 61.
Miirtschenstock, the44.61.
Miisella, Munt 399.
Musocco 436.
Musso 443.
Mustail 369.
Mustair 416.
— , Val 401.
Muster 362.
Mutten 369.
Muttenalp, the 63.
Mutten Glacier 112.
Muttenhorn , the , near
the Furka 112. 116.
Muttensee, the 63.
Muttenthaier Grat 68.
Muttenz 12.
Mutthorn , the , in the
Bernese Alps 157.
Muttler, the 405.
Muttnerhorn, the 369.
Mutan, Piz 376.
Muveran.
Muzzano, Lake of 423.
440.
Mytenstein, the 82.
Mythen, the 100.
Nachat, Plan 261.
Nadelhorn, the 332.
Nadeljoch, the 333.
Niifels 59.
Nagelis Griitli 116. 175.
Nair, Piz 390.
Naira, Piz 356.
Nalps, Pass 363.
— , Val 363.
Naluns, Muotta 403.
Nandro, Val 381.
Nangy 253.
Nanikon 42.
Nant 230.
— , Pont de 230.
Nant Borrant, Chalets de
271.
Nant Bride 242.
Nantua 246.
Nan/.er Thai 207. 319.
Napf, the 128.
Napoleon, Pont 297.
Narel, Passo di 429.
Naters 296. 306.
Natons, Val 3S2.
476
INDEX.
Nauders 417.
Naudersberg, Castle 417.
Nava, Pointe de 317.
Navegna, the 428.
Navigenze , the 314.
Naye , Rochers de 226.
Naz 379.
S. Nazzaro 430.
Nebikon 20.
Neftenbach 32. 46.
Neirivue 236.
Nendaz, Val de 291.
Nendeln 420.
Nenzing 419.
Neria, Val 444.
Nernier 239.
Nero, Monte 398.
Nessel 296.
Nessenthal, the 125.
Nesslau 58.
Nessleren 151.
Uesso 445.
Nesthorn, the 297.
Netstall 60.
Neuchatel 191.
— , Lake of 190. 197. 204.
Neuenburg 191.
Neuenstadt 190.
Neufelgiu-Pass , the 305.
Neu-Habsburg, Chateau
95.
Neuhaus 145.
Neuhausen 22. 23. 26.
Neumunster 39.
Neunkirch 23.
Neu St. .Tohann 58.
Neuschels 187.
Neu-Solothurn 14.
Neu - Toggenburg, Ruins
58.
Neuva, Glacier de la 265.
275.
Neuveville 190.
Neu-Wartburg, Castle 13.
Neyruz 201.
St. Nicolas de Veroce
271.
St. Nicolaus (Goschenen
Valley) 108.
— (Visp Valley) 320.
Nidau 11.
Nidelbad, the 39.
Nidfurn 61.
Nidwalden 117.
Nieder-Bauen, the SO.
Niederbipp 14.
Nledergestelen 296.
Niederglatt 19. 46.
Niederhallwyl 130.
Niederhorn, the 145.
Nieder-Rawyl 185.
Nieder-Rickenbach 117.
Niederi-ied 169.
Nieder-Schonthal 12.
Niederschworstadt 22
Niedersee, the 60.
Nieder-Surenen 119.
Nieder-Urnen 59.
Niederwald 304.
Niederwyl 16.
Niesen, the 141.
Niesenhorn, the 184.
St. Niklaus 318. 320.
Niouc 314.
Niva, Alp 310.
Niven, the 182.
— Pass, the 182.
Nivolet, Col de 284.
— , Dent du 249.
Noasca 285.
Nofels 420.
Nohl 26.
Noiraigue 196.
Noir-Mont, the 218.
Nolla, the 368. 369.
Nomenon, the Grand 283.
— , Combe de 284.
Nordend, the (MonteRosa)
326. 328.
Notkersegg 49. 54.
Notre-Dame de la Gorge
271.
— de Briancon 250.
de Rhemes 283.
du Sex 230.
Nottwyl 20.
Nouva, Alp 282.
— , Col della 282.
Novaggio 425.
Kovai, Alp 350.
Novara 439.
Novate 374. 450.
Novel 240.
Novena, Passo di 303.
Nudrit, Pont 288.
Nufenen 375.
Nufenen Pass, the 303.
Nufenenstock,the303.307
Nuna, Piz 400.
Niinalphorn, the 122.
Niinihom, the 177.
Nuolen, Baths of 41.
Nuova, Alp 284.
Nurschallas, Piz 364.
Nus 278.
Niischenalp, the 63.
Nyon 216.
Ober-Aar Glacier, the
174.
Oberaarhorn, the 174.
Oberaar Hut 174.
Oberaarjoch, the 174.
Oberaar-Rothjoch 174.
Ober-Aegeri 98.
Ober-Albis 38.
Ober-Aletach Glacier 296.
305.
Oberalp, the 365.
— Pass, the 365.
Oberalpstock 113. 363.
Ober-Arth 86.
Ober-Bauen, the 74.
Uberbergli 143.
Oberbipp 14.
Oberblegisee, the 61.
Oberbuchen 130.
Oberbuchsiten 14.
(Jberburg 17.
Obere Buchberg, the 42.
Ober-Gabelhorn 315. 327.
Obergestelen 303.
Oberglatt 46.
Oberhalbstein-Thal 381.
Oberhaupt, the 92. 94.
Oberhofen 143.
Oberhornsee, the 155.
Oberkaaern, Alp 44. 114.
Oberkastels 360.
Oberland, the Bernese
131.
— , the Bundner 358.
Ober-Laret 351.
Oberlaubhorn, the 184.
Oberlauchringen 23.
Obermeilen 39.
Obermutten 369.
Obereinach 130.
Ober-Rickenbach 84.
Oberried on the Lake of
Brienz 169.
in the SimmentUal
184.
Oberrieden 39. 41.
Oberriet 340.
( )ber-Rothhorn 326.
Oberriiti 21.
Obersa.Ken 359.
Ober-Schonenbuch 65.
Oberschvs'and 118.
Obersee, the 60. 305.
Oberstaad 25. 31.
Ober-Stocken 186.
Ober-Urnen 59.
Obervatz 380.
Oberwald 303.
Ober-Winterthur 31.
Oberwvl 8. 94
Oberzell 25.
Obhaag, Alp 119.
Obladis 417.
Obort 62.
Obrist, Alp 370.
Obstalden 44.
Obvi^alden 121.
Oche, Dent d' 240.
Ochs, the 163.
Ochsenberg, the 348.
Dchsenblanke, the 03.
INDEX.
477
Ochsenhorn, the 319.
Ochsenjoch, the 163.
< )chsenkopf, the 66.
(Jefen Pass 419.
Oehningen 25. 31.
( Jensingen 14.
Oerlikon 46.
Oeschlnen, Alp 156. 178.
— , Lake of 178. 156.
Oeschinengrat, the 156.
< )eschinenhorn, the 178.
iieschinenjoch, the 178.
Ofenberg, the 400.
ofenhorn, the 305.
Ofen Pass, the 401.
ofenthal, the 301.
(ifenthal Pass, the 301.
331.
Oggebbio 432.
Ogliasca 443.
Oira 308. 437.
Okenshohe 39.
Olcio 447.
Oldenhorn, the 233. 234.
Ulen, Col d' 334.
Olgiate 449.
Olginate, Lago di 443.
Olimpino, Monte 426.
Olivone 367.
Olloccia, Val 439.
Ollomont 293.
— , Val 293.
Ollon 229.
Olten 13.
Ultingen 13.
oitschibach, the 169.
Oltschikopf, the 171.
Omberenza, Crete d' 318.
Omegna 437. 302.
Ondezzana, Pic d' 282.
Onnens 198.
Onno 447.
Onsernone, Val 428.
Or, Mont d' 198. 205.
Orasso 431.
Orbe 198. 204.
Oreo, Val d' 282.
Ordeno 385.
Oren, Col d' 293.
— , Combe d' 311.
Oria 441.
Orlegna, the 385.
Onnelune, the 275. 284.
Onnona 233.
Ormont-dessous 234.
dessus 233.
Omavasso 300.
Orny 204.
— , Cabane d' 265. 286.
— , Glacier d' 265. 286.
Oro, Monte d' 382.
Oron-le-Chatel 201.
— -la-Ville 202.
Ors-De8sus 281.
Orse, Val 399.
Orsia 335.
Orsieres 286.
Orsino, Piz 110.
Orsino Pass, the 112.
Orsirora Lake 112.
Orso, Colmo deir 373.
Orsolina 428.
Orta 437.
— , Lago d' 437.
Ortler, the 415. 416.
Ortschwaben 204.
Ortstock, the 64.
Orvin 11.
Osogna 107.
Osola, Val d' 427.
Ossasco 429.
Ossingen 31.
Ossola, Val d' 300.
Osteno 441.
Ostermundingen 139.
Ot, Piz 391.
Ota, Alp 394.
Otanes, Col des 291.
Otelfingen 19. 47.
Otemma, Col d' 292.
— , Glacier d' 292. 312.
— , Pointe d' 292.
Othmarsingen 18. 21.
Otterschwyl 94.
Ouches, Les 264. 270.
Ouchy 219.
Ovace 311.
St. Oyen 290.
Padella, Piz 391.
Pain de Sucre, the 290.
Pai.x, He de 227.
Palanzo 446.
Palette, the 234.
Paleusieux 275.
Palezieu.x 202. 235.
Palfries, Alp 46.
Pallanza 433.
Pallanzeno 300.
Palpuogna 378.
Palii, Piz 397.
— Glacier, the 398. 407,
— , Lake 409.
Palus, Alp 348. 419.
Pambio 425.
Panevrossaz, Glac. de238,
Panix 68.
Panix Pass, the 68.
Panossiere, Cabane de
291.
Pantenbriicke, the 62.
Parabiago 436.
Paradies, the 375.
Paradis, Piz 363.
Paradiso 422. 425.
— , Gran 283.
Paraviso 441.
Pardisla 348.
Pare 448.
Paresseux, Col des 242.
Parmelan, the 251.
Parpan 380.
Parrain, Mt. 291.
Parrot-Spitze, the 335.
Parseier Spitze, the 418.
Part-Dieu, Convent 235.
Partnun Pass, the 349.419.
Partnuner Staffel 349.
Pascolo 437.
Pass Mai, the 369.
Passetti Pass, the 376.
Passo, Al 308.
Passugg 347. 380.
Pasturo 444.
Patenen 419.
Patnaul, Fuorcla da 360.
Patznaun Thai, the 418.
Paudeze, the 202. 222.
228.
Paun da Ziicher 396.
Payerhutte, the 415. 416.
Payerne 201. 203.
Pazzallo 424.
Pazzola, Piz 363.
Peccia 335. 429.
Pedenosso 407. 413.
Peiden, Baths 360.
Peiler Thai, the 360.
Peist 355.
Pelaggia, C'ima 447.
Pelerins, Xant des 262.
— , Glacier des 263.
Pella 438.
Pellina, Val 278.
Pelouse, Pointe 256.
Pendant 266.
Pennine Alps 289.
Perct'e, Pointe 254.
Percia, C'ima di 283.
Perdatsch 365.
Perebeche 285.
Perralotaz, Pont 255. 262.
Perrignier 246.
Perroc, Dent 311.
Pers, Munt 397.
Pers, Glacier 394. 397.
— , Isla 397.
Pertusio, Val 427.
Pesciora, Pizzo HI. 308.
Pestarena 329.
St. Peter, Kunnery 419.
— (Grisons) 355. 360.
— , Isle of 190.
Peter and Paul 49.
Peteret, Aiguille de 273.
Petersgrat, the 157. 177.
179. 182.
Petriolo Alp 330. 334.
— Glacier 330.
478
INDEX.
Pettenasco 302. 437.
Pettneu 418.
Peulaz, Col de la 274.
— , Chalets de la 275.
Peyrasas 282.
Peziner Spitze, the 408.
Pfafers, Bad 342.
— , Village 343.
Pfaflfen Glacier, the 125.
Pfaflensprung, Bridge 103.
104.
Pfatienwand, the 119. 125.
Pfafflkon 41. 42.
— , Lake of 42.
Pfander, the 420.
Pfannenstiel, the 39.
Pfannenstock, the 62.
Pfeffingen 9.
Pfunds 417.
Pfungen 46.
Pfyn (in the Valais) 295.
Pian' Alto 105.
Plan Canfer 382.
Plana 439.
Pianazzo 373.
Piancanino 385.
Pianello 443.
Pianes 282.
Pianlo 382.
Piano 441.
— , Lago del 441.
Piano d'Erba 449.
— di Segno 366.
— del Tivano 446.
Plans 418.
Piantonetto, Val 282. 285.
Piazza S. Martino 410.
Piazzi, Cima di 407. 414.
Piccola, Valle 334. 439.
Piccolo Altare , Col del
439.
Piedimulera 301. 328.
Piece, Glacier de 311.
Pierre a dzo, La 241.
— a Beranger 261.
— a Berard 257.
— a I'Echelle 263.
— Grept, Tete 230. 238.
— Joseph, Col de 264.
— Pertuis 11.
— Pointue, Pavilion de la
262.
— a Vire 291.
— -a- Voir 232. 286. 291.
St. Pierre d'Albigny 249.
— de la Cluse 196.
— , Castle near Aosta 276.
— Mont-Joux 287.
Pieterlen 16.
Pietrarossa, Val 409.
— , Alp 425.
S. Pietro 411. 441. 450.
S. Pietro-Berbenno 409.
Piglimohopn, the 334.
Pignieu, Baths of 371.
Pila 439.
Pilatus, the 92.
Pile Alp, the 334.
Pillergletscher, the 350.
Pillon, Col de 233.
— , Chalets de 234.
Pino 430.
Pinterjoch, the 336.
Pioda"409.
Piode 439.
Piode Joch, the 327.
— Glacier 327.
Piora, HOtel and Val 105.
Piotta 106.
Piottino, Monte 106.
Pirlo Lake.s, the 409.
Pischa, La 396.
— , Fuorcla 379.
Pischahorn, the 350.352,
Pisciadella 408.
Pissa, Cima della 334.
Pisse, Col delle 335.
Pisoc, Piz 404.
Pissevache, the 231.
Pitons, Les 215.
Pitschen, Lej 406.
Piumogna, the 106.
Piuro 412.
Pizokel, the 3^7.
Plafna, Piz 404.
— , Val 400. 402.
Plaine Morte, Glacier
de la 177. 184.
Plan (Ormont) 233.
Plan Bel Achat 262.
— de rAiguille 263.
— des Dames 272.
— des Roses 185.
— Nachat 262.
— Neve, Glacier de 230.
Plan, Aig. du 261. 263.
Planalp, the 169.
Planches, Les 225.
Planchettes, Les 194.
Plangolin, Col de 291.
Plankenalp, the 84. 119.
Planpraz 257. 262.
Plan Rai, Glacier 350.
Plans, Les (Be.x) 230.
— , Valle'e des 230.
Plantour, the 229.
Plasseggen Joch 349. 419.
Plate , Desert and Esca-
liers de 256.
Platifer, the 106.
Platta 365. 387.
Platta, Piz 382.
Plattas, Val 362. 365.
Platten 296.
Platten Alp 57. 61.
Plattenhiirner, the 350.
Plattenschluclit, the 360.
Plattiberg, the 92.
Plattje, the 327.
Plaun grand 387.
Plaz 386.
Pleiades, Les 224. 226.
Pleine, La 246.
Plessur, the 345. 365.
Pletschen 317.
Pleureur, Mont 292.
Plou 278.
Plurs 412.
Po, the 439.
Poch, Val del 404.
Pochtenbach, the 156.176.
Pochtenkessel, the 177.
Pognana 446.
Poia, la 281.
St. Point, Lake of 197.
Painte Perce'e, the 254.
Polleggio 107.
Pollux, the 324.
Pommat, the 308.
Pont (Val Savaranche)
283. 284.
Pont, Al 308.
— , Le 205.
— de Marie 255.
— Pelissier 255.
— St. Martin 279.
— de Nant 230.
— Serrant 275.
Pontarlier 197.
Ponte, Al, see Ai Ponti.
Ponte (Engadine) 399.
— (Val Locana) 285.
— Capriasca 425.
del Diavolo 413.
Grande 328.
— Tresa 440.
Pontet 271.
Ponti, Ai 298. 305. 306.
Pontlatz Bridge, the 417.
Ponton 282.
— , Alp 282.
— , Tour de 282.
Pontresina 392.
— , Jluottas da 393.
Poreareccio,Passo di 428.
Porcelizza, Val 410.
Porchabella Glacier 353.
379.
Porlezza 441.
Porrentruy 10.
Port Valais 240.
Porta da Spescha , the
63. 363.
— dei Merli 443.
Porte du Sex, La 241.
Portjengrat, the 3W).
Porto Ceresio 440.
Porto Valtravaglia 430.
INDEX.
479
Poschenried 184.
Poschiavo 408.
— , Lago di 408.
Pougny 246.
Pourri, Mont 276.
Pousse t, Punta del 281.
Ponsset-dessus 281.
Poyaz 266.
Pozzolo, Pizzo 301.
Praborgne 322.
Prad 416.
Prada 356.
— , Alp 444.
Pradella 403. 404.
Pragel, the 65.
Pralaire, the 216.
Pralong 252.
Prangins, Chateau 219.
228.
Pra-Raye 277. 311.
Prarion, the 254. 270.
Priisanz 381.
Prasuratsch 390.
Pratigau, the 348.
Prato 429.
— , Val 429.
Prato Sesia 439.
Pratteln 12. 17.
Praz, La 250.
— Les 261. 265.
— Combeira 186.
— de Fort 275.
— Sec 274.
Prazerhohe .369.
Prazlleuri 312.
— , Col de 291.
Prazlong 310.
Pre, Le 237. 274.
Pre de Bar 274.
Preda 379.
Predelp Pass 106. 366.
Pregny 214.
Premadio 4U7. 413.
Premeno 433.
Premia 308.
PremoscUo 301.
Prequartero 329.
Pre St. Dldier 275.
Prese, Le 408.
Presse 309. .
Pressura, Monte 415.
St. Prex 228.
Prievlusa, Fuorcla 398.
S. Primo, Monte 446. 449
Primsch 44.
Pringy-la-Caille 252.
Promenthoux 219.
Promontogno 411.
Prosa, Mte. 111.
Proz, Cantine de 287.
— , Glacier de 287.
Pruntrut 10.
Prutz 417.
Puer, Port de 248.
Pulaschin, Piz 383. 387.
PuUy 222.
Pultmenga, Tower 363.
Puntaiglas, Val 361. 63.
Puntota, Bridge, near Pon-
tresina 393. 394.
, near Zernetz 400.
— , Val 400.
Puschlav 408.
Pusiano, Lago di 449.
Pyrimont 246.
ftuarazza, Val di 329.
334. 439.
Quarona 439.
Quarsano 446.
Quart, Chateau 278.
Quart- Villefranche 278.
Quarten 44.
Quatervals, Piz 401.
Quincinetto 280.
Quinten 44. 45.
Quinto 106.
Rabenfluh, the 141.
Rabius 361.
Rabiusa, the (near Coire)
347. 380.
— (Safierthal) 357. 358.
Rachisberg, the 17.
Radolfzell 24.
Radiinthal, the 351.
Rsetikon, the 348. 419.
Rafruti, the 128.
Ragatz 341.
Ragol 344.
Rain 130.
Raisse, Ravine of the 196,
Ralligen 144.
Ralligstocke, the 144.
Ramin-Pass, the 68. 46.
RamisHuh, the 122.
Ramosa, Fuorcla da 360.
Ramsen 24.
Ramsey 17.
Ranasca Alp, the 68.
Rancio, Bocchetta di 282
Randa 320.
Randen, the Beringer 24
— , the Hohe 24.
Rang, Tete de 193.
Rankweil 420.
Ranzo-Gera 430.
Ranzola, Col de 335.
Rappenfluh 141.
Rapperswyl 40. 42.
Raron 296.
Raschil, Alp 380.
-, Piz 380.
Raterichsboden, the 173.
Raterschen 48.
Rathhausen 129.
Raus, the 10.
Rauschenberg 24.
Raut Glacier, the 298.
Raufhorn, the 298.
Rautifelder, the 59.
Rautispitz , the 60.
Raveisch Lakes, the 353.
Raverette, La 237.
Ravins, Les 185.
Rawyl, the 185.
Rawylhorn, the 185.
Razliberg, the 184.
Riizli Glacier 184. 185.
Re 428.
Realp 115.
Realt, Hoch-, Ruin 369.
Realta, Ruin 368.
Reams 381.
Rebbio, Punta del 298.
Rebstein 339.
Reckingen 47. 303.
Reclere 10.
Reconvilier 10.
Redasco, Piz 414.
Redorta, Corona di 429.
— , Passo di 427.
Refrains, Les 194.
Regensberg 46.
Regensdorf 19.
Regina, Piz 360.
Regina Margherita, Ca-
panna 277.
Regoledo 443.
Rehtobel, the 53.
Reichenau 357. 367.
— , Island of 24.
Reichenbach 176.
— , Falls of the 167.
Reichenburg 42.
Reichenstein 187.
Reiden 20.
Reidenbach 187.
Reignier 252.
Reinach 130.
Reisen 13.
Releccio, Capanna di 444.
Remoinze 318.
Remiis 405.
St. Re'my 290.
Renan 193.
Renens 199. 228.
Renfenhorn, the 167.
Rentiert, Alp 362.
Reposoir 252.
— Vallev, the 252. 254.
Reppischthal, the 70.
Reschen 416.
Reschen-Scheideck 417.
Rescia 441.
Resegone di Lecco 449.
Resti-Pasa, the 182.
Resti-Kothhorn, the 182.
480
INDEX.
Resti-Tscbingcl Glacier
113.
Rfisy 336.
Retico, Lago 366.
Rettau Lake 234.
Reuchenette 10.
ReuHssenberg, the 185.
Reuse, the 193. 195. 197.
— , Gorge.s de la 197.
Reuse d'Arolla, Col de la
293.
Reuss, the 19. 71. 74. 83.
Reutigen 186.
Revers 284.
Rezzonico 443.
Rhseticon, the 348. 419.
Rhaziins 368.
Rhein, Averser 371. 372.
— , Hinter 357. 368. 375.
— , — (Source of the)
375.
— , Medelser, or
— , Mittel , the 362. 365.
— , Oberhalbstein 381.
— , Valser 360.
— , Val 372.
— , Vorder 357. 362. 364.
365.
— , Vriner 360.
Rheinegg 60. 339.
Rheinfelden 17.
Rheingau, Upper 339.
Rheinklingen 25.
Rheinquellhorn, the 376.
Rheinthal, Vorder- 358.
Rheinwald Glacier 375.
Rheinwaldhorn, the 376.
Rheinwaldthal, the 372.
Rhemes, Val de 283.
— , Colle di 283.
— , Glacier de 283.
— Notre-Dame 283.
— St. Georges 283.
Rhine, the 3. 22. 25. etc.
— , the Falls of the 25.
Rho 436.
Rhodan, the 303.
Rhone, the 116. 228. 241.
303 etc.
Rhone Glacier, the 116.
302
— , Perte du 246.
Rhonen, the Hohe 40.
Rhonestock, the 302.
Richensee 130.
Richetli Pass, the 68.
Richisau 66.
Richter.swyl 40. 41.
Rickelshausen 24.
Rickenbach 99. 101.
Rickenbach, Ober- 84.
— , Nieder- 117.
Riddes 294.
Ried on the Inn 417.
— fLotschenthal) 182.
— (Muotathal) 65.
— (Tiiss Valley) 46.
~ (Valais) 305.
Riedbad 58.
Rieden 43.
Rieder Alp, the 305.
— Furka, the 305.
Riederhorn, the 305.
Riedern 67.
Riedmatten , Col de 311
293.
Riedpass, the 333.
Riedwyl 17.
Riehen 8.
Riein 360.
— , Pi/. 353.
Rielasingen 24.
Riemenstaldenthal, the
65. 82. 101.
Rienzer Stock, the 104.
Rieseten-Pass, the 67.
RifFair 416.
Riffelalp, the 323.
Riffelberg, the 323.
Riffelbord 324.
Riffelhaus, the 322. 323.
Riffelhorn, the 324. 326,
Riffel Hotel 323.
Riffler, the 418.
Riggisberg 141.
Rigi, the 84.
Rigi Felsenthor 85. 87,
— First 85. 90.
— Hochfluh 79.
— Kaltbad 85. 90.
— Klosterli 85. 87.
— Kulm, the 86. 88.
— Roth.stock, the 86.
— Scheidegg 85. 90.
— Staffel 85. 86. 87.
Rigithalstock, the 119.
Rima 439.
Rimasco 334. 439.
Rimpfischhorn 326. 331.
Rimpfischwange 331.
Rinderbiel 114.
Rinderhorner, the 179.
Rindwaldbad, the 177.
Ringelspitz, the 358. 868.
Ringgenberg , Ruins 144.
169.
Rinkenberg 361.
Rinkenkopf, the 68.
Ripaille, Castle 240.
Rippe, La 218.
Riseten Fall, the 79.
Ritom, Lake 105.
Ritter Pass, the 306.
Ritzberg Alp, the 184.
Ritzengratli, the 164.
Ritzingen 3o4.
Riva in the Sesia - V'alley
335. 439.
— di Palanzo 446.
Rivage, Le 214.
Rivarolo 285.
Rivasco 308.
Rivaz St.Saphorin222.228.
Rive 219.
Riveo 428.
Rivera 422.
Riviera, the 107.
Robiei, Alp 308. 429.
Roc Koir, the 313. 315.
Roccapietro 439.
Roccia Viva 282.
S. Rocco 308.
Roche in the Jura 10.
— on the Rhone 228.
— Percee, La 266.
— sur Foron 252.
Roches, Col des 194.
Rodi-Fiesso 106.
Rodont-Bridge, the HI.
Rofelstaffel 330.
Rofelhorner, the 330.
Roffna 382.
Rofna-Ravine, the 372.
Roggenhorn, the 349.
Roggwyl 17.
Rohbiitzli Alp 65.
Rohrbachstein 184. 185.
Rohren 92.
Roi, Rocher du 248.
Roisetta, Bee 322.
Rol, Punta 282.
RoUe 219. 228.
Romagnano 439.
Romainmotier 204.
Romanico 436.
Romanshorn 47. 30.
Romerswyl 130.
Romiti 86.
Romont 201.
Romoos 128.
Roncalia, Villa 412.
Ronco 282. 428. 437.
Rondadura Pass 363.
-, Piz 363. 366.
Rongellen 370.
Rophaien 82.
Rorschach 50.
Rorschacher Berg, the 50.
Riisa, La 407.
Rosa Blanche, Pte. de 291.
Rosa, Monte 326. 330.
Rosairy, Chalets 252.
Rosatsch, Piz 390. 397.
Bos^ 201.
Roseg, Piz 398.
— Glacier 388. 394.
— , Porta 398.
Roselette, Mt. 271.
Rosenberg, the 49.
INDEX.
481
Rosenhorn, the 165.
Rosenlaui, Baths of 166.
— Glacier 166.
Rossa 377.
— , Passo della 4U9.
Rossberg, the 95. 100.
Rossboden Glacier 299.
Rossbodenhorn, the 299.
Rossbodenjoch, the 299.
Rossbiihel, the 50.
Rossetto, Colle 283.
Rossfall, the 58.
Rossinieres 237.
Rossmatt Valley 66.
Rosso, Site. 433.
— , Cima di 385.
Rossstock, the 102.
Roteln 47.
Rothe 16.
Rothegg, the 119.
Rothe Herd, the 155.
— Kumme, the 177. 324.
— Totzen, the 92.
Rothelspitze, the 415.
Rothenberg 188.
Rothenbninnen 368.
Rothenburg 20.
Rothenegg, the 151.
Rothfluh, the, near Vitz-
nau 78.
— near Lauterbr. 152.
— near Arth 87.
Rothengraben 233.
Rothenthurm 98.
Rothgratli, the 84. 119.
Rothhorn, the Brienzer
169. 122. 128.
— , the Aroser 356.
— , the (Bliimlisalp) 178.
— , Faldum 182.
— , Ferden 182.
— , Resti 182.
— (Macugnaga) 329.
— (Oheraarjoch) 175.
— , the Sigriswyler 143.
— (near Saas) 299.
— (Zermatt) 320.
— (Zinal) 315.
Rothhornsattel, the 175.
Rothihorn, the 164. 165.
Rothkreuz 21. 71. 99.
Rothloch, the 175.
Roth-See, the 71.
Rothstock, the Rigi- 86.
— , the Uri- 84. 119.
— , the Engelberg 119. 34.
— Lucke, the 84.
Roththal, the 157.
Roththal Sattel 157. 159.
Roththor, the 45.
Rotondo, Pizzo 111. 303.
Rotten , the 303.
Rotzberg, the 92.
Rotzloch, the 92.
Rougemont 188.
Rousseau's Island 209.
Rousses, Les 218.
Rovana, Val 428.
Rovano, Passo 398.
Rovegro 433.
Rovenna 447.
Roveredo 377.
Rovio 426.
Roysan 290.
Rubigen 139.
Rublihorn , the 188. 237.
Ruch-Eptingen 1.5.
Ruchen, the Grosse 114.
Ruchengliirnisch, the 66.
Ruchhubel, the 119.
Ruchkeblen Pass 114. 64.
Ruchi, the 60.
Riichi, the 63.
Rudenz, Chateau 83.
Rue 202.
Riiegsau 17.
Rueras 363.
Rugen, the Kleine 147.
Ruinaz 276.
Ruinette, the 291.
Ruis 68. 371.
Rvimikon 47.
Rumilly 248.
IJunca Bridge 358.
Ruosalp 65.
Ruosalper Kulm 65.
Ruppersweil 21. 22.
Ruschlikou 39. 41.
Rusein, Piz 63.
— , Val 63. 362.
Russo 428.
Ruth, Dent de 187.
Riithi in the Rhine Valley
340.
Riiti near Rapperswyl 42.
47.
— near Stachelberg 61.
Rutli, the 81.
Rutor, the 284.
— Falls, the 284.
— Lake 284.
Rutti 17.
Riittifirn, the 127.
Ruttihubelbad 129.
Ruz, Val de 193.
Rykon 47.
Saane, see Sarine.
Saanen 186. 233.
— Mciser, the 187.
Saas im Grund 332.
Saas in the Pratigau 349.
Saasberg, the 61. 66.
Saas-Pass, the 3tU.
Saasgrat, the 296. 319.
Saasthal, the 331.
Baedeker, Switzerland. 13th Edition.
Sachseln 122.
Sackingen 18. 22.
Saconnex 215.
Sacro Monte , the , near
Orta 437.
— near Varallo 439.
Safenwyl 20.
Safien-Platz 358.
Salierberg, the 358.
Safier Thai, the 358.
Sage, La 310. 313.
Sagens 359.
Sagerou, Col de 242. 256.
Sagetobel, the 354.
Sagisthal See 150. 165.
Sagliains, Val 350. 401
Sagne, Blont 193.
Saillon 294.
Saissa 370.
Sajento, the 408.
Sala 446.
Saland 47.
Salanfe, the 231. 232. 267.
Salanfe Alp, the 242.
— , Col de 242.
Salay 312.
Saleinaz, Fenetre de 265.
— , Glacier de 265.
Salenstein 25. 31.
Sales 201.
Saletz 340.
Saleve, Mont 215.
Salgesch 295.
Salins 250.
Salischloss 13.
Sallanches 254.
Salle, La 250. 276. 292.
Salles, Pointe de 256.
Sallieres, Tour 242.
Salorino 426.
Salquenen 295.
Sals Alp 45.
Salteras, Piz 379.
Saltine, the 296. 297.
Salute, La 431.
Saluver, Val 390.
Salux 381.
Salvagny 257.
Salvan 267.
S. Salvatore. Monte 424.
Samadeu 39i.
Sambeina, Becca di 283.
Sambtis-See 57. 59. 340.
Sambucco 429.
Samedan 391.
Samoens 256.
Samolaco 374.
Samstagern 96.
Sanagra, Val 441.
Sand-Alp, Lower 63.
— , Upper 63. 363.
Sandalp Pa.ss, the 69. 363.
Sand Glacier, the 363.
31
482
INDEX.
Sandfini, the 63. 114.363.
Sandgi-at, the 114. 863.
Sandhubel, the 354.
Sanetsch, the 233.
Sanetschhorn, the 233.
Santhia 280.
Santino 433.
Saoseo, Cima 407.
St. Saphorin 222. 228.
Sapiin 366.
Sardasca Alp 350.
Sardona Alp 68.
— Glacier, the 68.
— Pass, the 68.
Sarfall, the Lower 340.
Sargans 46. 340.
Sarina Alp 341.
Sarine, the 188. 199.
236. etc.
Sarmensdorf 130.
Sarnen 121.
— , Lake of 122.
Sarraz, La 204.
Sartuns 380.
Sass Auta 401.
Sassalbo, Pizzo 408.
Sassal Masone 398. 407.
, Alp 407.
Sassella 409.
Sassello Pass, the 429.
Sasseneire, the 310. 313.
Sasslere, the 276.
— , Lac de la 283.
Sasslglione , Forcola di
408.
Sassina, Val 302. 443.
Sasso di Ferro, 11 432.
— Bissolo, Val di 409.
— S. Martino 445.
— Rancio, II 444.
Satanna 311.
Satignv 246.
Sattel 98.
Sattelhorn, the 305.
Satteli, the 124. 166.
SatteltelUcke, the 360.
St. Saturnin 249.
Sauge, La 204.
Saugern 9.
Sauren Glacier, the 68.
Saurenstock, the 68.
Saussure, Pavilion 275.
— , Aig. de 264.
Sauterot 309.
Savaranche, Val 276. 280.
283.
Savognin 381.
Sax 340.
Saxe, La, Baths 273.
— , Mont de 274.
Saxer Lucke, the 340.
Saxeten 151.
Saxon, Baths of 294.
Scai, Piz 105. 366.
Scairolo, Val 425.
Scala, Lago della 407.
Scale, Mte. delle 413.
Scaletta-Pass,' the 353.
— Glacier 352.
Scalettahorn, the 353.
Scanfs 400.
Scara Orell 111.
Scaradra Pass 360.
Scareglia 425.
Scarl 404.
Scarljochl, the 404.
Scarlthal, the 404.
Scatta, Passo della 428
— Minojo 305.
Scerscen Glacier , the
387. 398.
— , Monte di 398.
— Pass, the 398.
Scesaplana, the 348. 418.
Schaan 420.
Schachen 51. 127.
Schachenbad, the 51.
Schachenthal, the 64. 102.
Schadau, Chateau 141.
Schadburg, the 149.
Schafberg, the (near
Wildhaus) 59.
— (Lcitschenthal) 182.
— (Pontresina) 395.
— (Engstlenalp) 124.
— (Oeschinenthal) 156.
Schafboden, the 57.
Schaffhausen 23.
Schafle's Egg 57.
Schanoch, the 144.
Schafmatt, the 13.
Schaftelen 126.
Schaftobel 378.
Schalliberg Alp 327.
Schallijoch, the 316. 328.
Schallithal, the 320.
Schamella Club hut 348.
419.
Schams, Valley of 370.
Schanfiggthal, the 355.
Schangnau 151.
Schanis 43.
Schaniser Berg, the 43.
Scharans 368. 380.
Scharmadliiger, Alp 124.
Schattorf 102.
Schatzalp, the 353. 356.
Sehatzberg 353.
Schaubhorn, the 173.
Schauenberg, the 47.
Schauenburger Bad 12.
Schauensee 94.
Scheerhorn, the 64. 114.
Scheerhorn Griggeli
Pa.s.1, the 114.
Scheibe, the 68.
Sclieibe Pa,ss, the 68.
ScheibenstoU, the 44.
Scheidegg, the Great 166.
— , the Hasli 166.
— , the Lauterbrunnen,
or Little 159.
— , the Reschen 416.
— , the Rigi 90.
— , the Sustcn 126.
— , the Wengern 159.
Scheinige Platte, the 149.
Schera Alp 401.
Scherzligen 139. 143.
Scheye, the 60.
Schiahorn, the 352. 356.
Schienhorn, the 305.
Schiers 348.
Schiffli, the 151.
Schild, the (Rigi) 90.
— fnear Glarus) 60.
Schiltalp, the 155.
Schiltfliihe, the 155.
Schilthorn,the(Lotschen-
Pasa) 183.
— (near Miirren) 154.
Schimberg, the 128.
Schimberger Bad , the
127.
Schindellegi 96.
Schinznach 22.
Schirmensee 40.
Schlagstrasse, the 98.
Schlans 361.
Schlapina Joch, the 350.
419.
Schlapinthal, the 350.
Schleins 405.
Schleuis 359.
Schlieren 19.
Schlierenalp 176.
Schlierenthal, the 121.
Schlinga, Val 403.
Schlossberg, the 136.
Schlossberg Glacier 102.
Schlossbergliicke , the
102. 119.
Schlosslikopf, the 344.
Schlossstock, the 119.
Schlossstockliicke, the
84. 119.
Schlosswyl 129.
Schluderns 416.
Schlundi, the 187.
Schmadribach , Fall of
the 155.
Schmadrijoch 157. 182.
Schmerikon 41. 43.
Schmidhauser 305.
Schmitten (Belfort) 354.
(near Freiburg) 199.
(Priitigau) 348.
(Schanfigg) 356.
Schmiirras, Pass 381.
INDEX.
483
Schnan 418.
Schnaus 361.
Schneckeninsel, the 169.
Schneehorn, the, on the
Jungfrau 158.
Schneestock, the 126.
Schneidehorn, the 185.
Schnittweyer Bad 140.
Schnurtobel, the 86.
SchoUberg, the 340.
Schollenen, the 109.
Schonboden, the 96.
Schonbrunn 71.
Schonbiihl 17. 183.
Schonegg 150. 347.
Schonegg Pass , the 84.
Schonenbuch, Ober- 65.
Schonenwerth 21.
Schonfels 71.
Schonhorn, the 298.
Schrattern, Alp 172.
Schreckhorn, the 162.
Schreienbach, the 62.
Schrinen, Alp 45.
Schruns 419.
Schuls 402.
Schiipfen 12.
Schiipfheim 128.
Schwabhorn, the 150.
Schwaldis, Alp 45.
Schwalmern, the 151. 176.
Schwalmls. the 117.
Schwanau, Island of 100.
Schwanden, on the Lake
of Thun 143.
— , near Glarus 61. 67.
Schwandi 94.
Schwannhohe 66.
Schwarenbach 179.
Schwarzach 420.
Schwarzbach , the 179.
Schwarzberg Glacier 331.
Schwarzberg - Weissthor,
the 328. 331.
Schwarze Glacier 112.
327.
Schwarzegg Hut 162. 174
Schwarzenbach 48. 65.
Schwarzenberg 127.
Schwarze See, the, near
Davos 351.
— near Freiburg 201.
— near Tarasp 403.
Schwarzgletscher 179.
Schwarzgratli, the 177
Schwarzhorn , the , near
the Faulhorn 165. 171.
— near the Blumlisalp
156.
— near the Fliiela-Pass
351. 353.
— (Grubon) 31.S.
— (Jlontavou) 419.
SchwarzhornCM(inteRi)sa)
326.
■ (Parpan) 356.
Schwarz-See (near Zer-
matt) 324.
(near Klosters) 350.
Schwarzsee-Bad 201. 187.
Sehwarzthor, the 327.
Schwarzwald Glacier 166.
Hiitten, the 124.
Schwefelberg 141. 187.
Schwegmatt, the 323.
Schwein Alp, the 42.
Schweinalp-Pass 42.
Schweizerhalle 12.
Schweizer-Thor 349. 419.
Schwellaui, the 66.
Schwellisee, the 356.
Schwende 56.
Schwendi 52.
Schwendifluh 80.
Schwendi-Kaltbad 121.
Schwendlenbad, the 129.
Schwerzenbach 42.
Schwyz 100.
Schyn Pass, the 369.
Schyngrat 84.
Schynige Platte, the 149.
Sciernes 236.
Scionzier 254.
Sciora, Alp 386. 411.
Sciundrau, Lago 429.
Scopa 439.
Scopello 439.
Scopi, the 366.
Sedrun 363.
Seealpsee, the 56.
Seebach 19.
Seeboden-Alp, the 87.
Seedorf 83.
Seegruben 356.
Seehorn, the Gross- 351.
Seehorner (Silvretta) 350.
Seelibiihl, the 141.
Seelisberg 80.
Seelisberger Kulm 80.
— See 79. 80.
Seen 47.
Seengen 130.
Seerviti 67.
Seesvenna, Val 404.
— , Piz 404.
Seethal, the 129.
Seewen 100.
Seewinen Glacier 330.
Seewis 348. 419.
Seez 275.
Seez, the 45.
Seezberg, the 46.
Seezthal, the 46. 68.
Sefmenalp, the 151.
Selinenfurgge, the 1,56.
Scliucnthal, the 155.
Seftigschwend 141.
Segl 386.
Segnes Glacier 68. 358.
— Pass, the 68. 35S.
— Piz 68.
Segno, Piano di 366.
Segrino, Lago del 449.
Seigne, Col de la 273.
Seignelegier 194.
Seilon, Col de 292. 310.
311.
— , Chalets 292. 310. 311.
Seiloz, La 275.
Selbsanft, the 62. 63.
Selden 183. 157.
Selkingen 304.
Sella Pass, the 398.
— Glacier, the 398.
— , Pointe 322.
— , Eifugio (Mont Blanc)
264.
— , — (Lyskamm) 327.335.
— , La 392. 397.
Selun, the 44.
Selva 364.
Selzach 16.
Sembrancher 286.
Semione 367.
Semnoz, the 251.
Semogo 407. 413.
Sempach 20.
Sena, Pizzo di 406.
Sengie, CoUe 282.
— , Punta 282.
Sengla, la 312.
Sennhof 47.
Sennthum 318.
Sennwald 55. 340.
Sent 403.
Sentier, Le 205.
Sentigraben, the 142.
Sentis, the 63. 56. 88.
Seon 130.
Sepey, Le (Ormont) 231.
— (Val dllerens) 312.
Septimer, the 382.
Serbelloni, Villa 445.
Seregno 450.
Serena, Col de la 290.
Serenbach, the 44.
Serengia, Piz 363.
Sergnement 238.
Sermenza, Val 439.
Serneus 349.
Sernf-Thal, the 67.
Sernio 413.
Serpentine, the 292.
Serra, la 400.
Serra Neire 316.
Serre 284.
Serriercs 195.
Scrtena, Alp 425.
Sertig-D(irlli 353.
31*
484
INDEX.
Sertig Pass, the 353.
Sertigthal, the 348.
Servaplana 239.
Serviezel, Ruin 405.
Servoz 255.
Sesia Jnch, the 327.
— Glacier, the 334.
— Valley , the 334. 438.
439.
Sesto 450.
Sesto-Calende 436.
Sether Furke, the 68.
Sett, Passo di 382.
Settimo Vittone 280.
Seuzach 31.
Sevelen 340.
Sevenen, Alp 299.
St. Severin 239.
Sevreu, Col de 291.
Sdvrier 251.
Sewelistock, the 102.
Sex Rouge, the 233.
Seyon, the 193.
Seyssel 246.
Sfazzu 403.
Sgrischus, Lej 398.
Sichellauenen 156.
Siders 295.
Sieben Bi-unnen, the 184.
Slebnen 41.
Siedelhorn, the Great 173.
— , the Little 173.
Siedeln Glacier, the 115.
Siegmundsried 417.
Sieroz, Gorges du 248.
Sierre 295.
Siggenthal 22.
Signalhorn, the 350.
Signalkuppe, the (Monte
Rosa) 326. 329. 335.
Signau 128.
Signayes 290.
Sigriswyl 143.
Sigriswyl-Grat, the 143
Sihl, the 20. 33. 70. 96
Sihl-Briicke, the 72.
Sihlseeli 66.
Silberhorn, the 159.
Silbern 66.
Silberstock, the 62.
Silenen 102.
Sils (Engadine) 386.
— in the Rheinthal 369.
— , Lake of 386.
Silvaplana 387.
— , Lake of 387.
Silvretta, the 401.
Silvretta Clubhut 350.
.Silvretta Glacier 349.
Silvrettahorn, the 350.
Silvretta Pass, the 350.
Simano, the 367.
Simelihorn, the 164. 165
Simelipass, the 299.
Simme, the 183. 184 etc,
— , Fall of the 184.
Simmenegg, the 187.
Simmenfluh, the 187.
Siramenthal, the 183. 186.
St. Simon 248.
Simpeln 299.
Simplon 299.
Simplon, the Pass 298.
— Hospice 298.
Sinestra, Val 405.
Singen 24.
Sion 294.
— , Mayens de 309.
— , Monastery of 43.
Sirnach 48.
Sirvoltenjoch, the 299.
Sisikon 82. 101.
Sismonda, Signal 277.
Sissach 12.
Sissacher Fluh, the 12.
Sisseln-Thal 18.
Sissone, Monte 385.
Sitten 335.
Sitter, the 47. 57. 49.
Sitterthal 47.
Siviriez 201.
Si.x-Madun, the 110. 364.
Si.xt 256.
Sizzano 439.
Soana, Val 282. 285.
Soazza 377.
Soglio 412.
Sol, Piz 344.
Soladino Fall 428.
Solalex 238.
Solbiate 449.
Soldo, Val 425. 441.
Solduno 427.
Solis Bridge, the 369.
Soleure or
Solothurn 14.
Som la Proz 275.
Sombeval 11.
Someo 428.
Someraro 436.
Somma 436.
Sommerau 13.
Sommerikopf, the 59.
Sommet des Vignes 232.
Somvix 361.
— , Val 361.
Sonadon, Col du 287. 292.
, Glacier du 287. 292.
Sonceboz 11.
Sonchaud, Mont 22G.
Sondalo 413.
Sondrio 409.
Sonlerto 429.
Sonnenberg,ncarLucerne
73. 77.
Sonneuberg near Ziirich
33.
— near Seelisberg 80.
Sonnighorn, the &2.
Sonogno 427.
Sonvillier 193.
Sonzier 226. 236.
Soragno 425.
Sorebois, Col de 314.
— , Come dc 314. 315.
Siirenberg 128. 169.
Sorengo 423.
Sorescia, the 111
Some, the 10.
Sorreda Pass, the 360.
Sort, CoUe di 283.
Sorvilier 10.
Sosto, Mt. 367.
Sottile, Ospizio 335.
Sours, las 395.
Souste, la 295.
Soyhieres 9.
Spadlatscha, Val 378.
Spannegg 60.
Spannort. the Great and
Little 119.
Spannorthiitte, the 118.
Spannort Joch 102. 119.
Sparrhorn, the 297.
Speer, the 43. 44. 58.
Speicher 54.
Spescha, Porta da 63. 363.
Spicherfluh, the 124.
Spiellau See, the 363.
Spielmatte 146. 147.
Spiez 144. 175.
Spiezwyler 141. 176.
Spin, Val 400.
Spinabad, the 353.
Spino 412.
Spiringen 64. 102.
Spissenegg, the 91.
Spitahnatte, the 179.
gpitelruti 64.
Spitzberg, thel08.115.
Spitzen, the 64.
Spitzliberg, the 109.
Spliidatsch, Castle 382.
Spliigen 372.
Spliigen Pass, the 373.
Spoccia 431.
Spol, the 399. 400.
Spondinig 416.
Spontiskopfe, the 347.
Sporeralp, the 419.
Staad 339.
Stabbio Alps, the 377.
Stabbio-Grat, the 376.
Stachelberg, Baths of 61.
Stiifa 40.
Stiifelalp, the 113.
Stafeln, the 113.
Staffa 308.
INDEX.
485
Sfaftelalp, the fncar Zer
matt) 308. 325.
StatVelwald 308.
Stalden in the Visp Valley
318. 319. 333.
— , on the Pragel 66.
— , in theSimmenthal 184.
Staldenegg, the 142.
Staldenried 319.
Staldhorn, the 298.
Stella 382.
Stallerherg, the 371.
Stalvedro 382.
— , Stretto di 106.
Stammer.spitz, the 405.
Staminheim 31.
Stampa 411.
Stans 117.
Stanserhorn, the 117. 92.
Stansstad 91. 117.
Stanz, see Stans.
— , Valley of 418.
Stapf, In der 308.
Starkenbach 59.
Starkenstein 59.
Starlera, Val 371.
Statz, Lake of 390.
Statzer Horn 380. 390.
Staubbach, the 152.
Staubfall(Adelboden)177.
Staubj, the 64.
Stanfberg, the 21. 130.
Stavelatsch, Fuorcla 62.
Stechelberg 155.
Steckborn 31.
Steffisburg 140.
Steghorn, the 177.
Steig 57. 24.
Steigli-Egg, the 92.
Stein, Zum 126.
— zu Baden 18.
— , in the GrLsons 381.
—, on the Rhine 19. 25. 31.
— (Toggenburg) 59.
Steinach, the 49.
— , Castle 50.
Steinalp-Briaen, the 117.
Steinbach 99.
Steinberg, the 126.
— , the Lower 153.
— , the Upper 156.
Steinen 98. 100.
Steinen-Aa, the 98.
Steinenberg Alp, the 155.
Steinerberg 98. 100.
Steinerne Tisch 50. 339.
Stein-Glacier, the 126.
Stein-Limmi 126.
Steinhaus Alp 126.
Stein.sberg 402.
Steinthalhorn, the 318.
Stcinthali, the 66.
Steje, Becco dellc 280.
Stella, Corno 409.
Stellihorn, the 331. 332.
Stelli-See, the 325.
Stelvio 416.
Stelvio Pass, the 415.
St. Stephan 183.
Stilfs 416.
Stilfser .Toch, the 415.
Stockalp, the 175. 304.
Stockalper-Canal 241.
Stock Glacier 278. 313.
Stockgron, the 63.
Stockhorn, the 136. 186.
Stockie,'the312. 313.
Stockknubel, the 325.
Stoos, near Brunnen 81.
Storegg, the 119. 122.
Stoss, near Gais 54. 340.
Stossi 113.
Strada 405.
Strahlegg, the 162.
Strahlegghcirner 162.
Strahlhorn, the 326. 331.
Strassberg, Ruins 355. 3S0.
Strassenhaus 419.
Striittligen 141. 186.
Strela Pass, the 356.
Strengen 418.
Stresa 435.
Stretta, La 406.
— , Piz della 406.
Strim Alp, the 363.
Strim Glacier 114. 363.
Strimthal, the 114. 363.
Strubel Glacier 177.
Strubelegg, the 177.
Stuben 417.
Stucklistock, the 126.
Studerhorn, the 175.
Studerjoch, the 175.
Stufensteinalp, the 157.
Stulsergrat, the 354.
Sturnaboden 348.
Stutz 91.
Stutzeck Tunnel 101.
Suberg 12.
Subigen 17.
Sublage, le 233.
Suchet, Mont 204.
Siid-Lenzspitze 332.
Sueglio 443.
Sufers 372.
Suggithurm, the 15t.
Sugiez 204.
Suhr 20. 21.
Sulden 415.
Suldenthal, the 415.
Sulden Glacier, the 415.
Suldthal, the 151. 176.
Sulegg, the 151. 152.
Sulgen 47.
St. Sulpice 196.
Suls, Alp lol.
Sulsanna 353.
— , Val 353. 400.
SulzHuh, the 349. 419.
Sumiswald 17.
Suna 302. 434.
Sundgraben, the 145. 141.
Sundlauenen 145.
Suno 393.
Supersax, Castle 306.
Snr 382.
Sura, Alp 358. 362. 397.
Surava 353. 378.
Sur En 403. 401.
Surenen Pass, the 120.
Suretta, Val 372.
Surettahorn, the 371. 3T3.
Surlei 388.
Surlej, Alp 388.
— , the Fuorcla da 388.
— , Piz 390. 397.
Surovel, Alp 388.;. 395.
Surpalix, Val 364.
Surrhein 61. 63.
Sur Sass 403.
Sursee 20.
Sursura, Piz 400.
— Glacier 401.
— , Val 400.
Sii Som 401.
Sus 401.
Susasca, the 350. 351.
Siiser Thai, the 350.
Su.s.sillon 314.
Susten 295.
Susten Alp, the 126.
Susten-Horner 126.
Susten-Limmi 126. 109.
Susten-Scheidegg,the 126.
Suvoroff Bridge 65.
Suvretta, Val 390.
Suzanfe, see Clusanfe.
Tabor, Mont 341.
Taborberg, the 343.
Taceno 443.
Taconav, Glacier de 255.
Tacul, Glacier du 259. 264.
— , Montblanc du 262.
264.
— , Cabane du 263.
Tagertschi 129.
Tagerweilen 31.
Tagliaferro, the 334.
Tagstein, Castle 369.
Taille, Mont 335.
Tailleres, Lac des 196.
Taino 430.
Talamona 410.
TalSfre , Aig. de 264.
— , Glacier de 261. 264.
Talloires 251.
Tamaro, Monte 425.
Tambohoru, the 372.
486
INDEX.
Tamid, Col de 250.
Tamina, the 342.
Tamins 358.
Taney, Lake of 240.
Taninges 253. 256.
Tannenalp, the 122. 124
Tanneverge, Pointe and
Col de 25ti.
Tannwald 8.
Tanzbbdeli, the 151. 176.
Tapiaz, La 263.
Tarasp, Castle 403.
— , Baths of 403.
Tarentaise , the 250. 275.
Tartsch 416.
Tiisch 320.
Tasch-Alp, the 332. 333.
Tiischhorn, the 324. 332.
Tiisch- Pass, the 331.
Tasna, Val 402.
Ta.saino Valley 425.
Tatlishom, the 183.
Tiitschbacli, the 118.
Taufers 404. 416.
Tavagnasco 280.
Tavanasa 361.
Tavannes 10.
Tavel 224.
Taverne 422. 425.
Tavetsch 363.
— , Mompe 363.
— , the Valley of 363.
Tavordo 441.
Tecknau 13.
Teglino, Val 409.
Teglio 409.
Tei, Becca de 283.
Tein 354.
Teirs Chapel (near Ktiss-
nach) 95. 83.
— (near Burglen) 102.
— (Lake of Lucerne) 83.
Teirs Platte, the 83. 101.
Telleccio, CoUe di 282.
Tellenburg, the 177.
Telli, the 155.
Tellithal, the 157. 179.
Tencia Campo 429.
Tendre, Mont 205.
Teniger Bad 361.
Tenji, Val 361.
Tennwyl 130.
Teo, Pizzo di 406.
Termine, Val 105.
Terms, Val 364.
Ternate 432.
Terrarossa, Punta di 298.
Terrassa 280.
Terri, Piz 360.
Terrible, Mont 10.
Territet 225. 226. 228.
Territet-Chillon 226.
— Glion 228.
Tersiva, the 281.
Terzen 44.
Tesserete 426.
Tessin, see Ticino.
Tessonet, Cresta del 282.
Tete Blanche 309.312. 313.
Tcte de Bois, the 287.
Tete a Fe'a 317.
Tete Noire, the (near the
Col de la Forclazj 266.
— (near St. Gervais) 254.
Tete de Rang, the 193.
Teufelsbriicke, the, in the
Reussthal 109.
— near Murren 154.
— in the Sihlthal 96.
Teufelsmiinster, the 80.
Teufen 57.
Tgietschen, Piz 113. 360.
303.
Thai 339.
Thalacker 71. 72.
Thaleggli, the 126.
Thalheim 31.
Thali-Alp, the 376.
Thalibach, the 330.
Thiiliboden, the 330.
Thalligrat, the 304.
Thaltistock, the 125.
Thalwyl 89.
Thayingen 24.
Theodule Glacier, the 320.
325.
— , Pavilion du 321. 325.
Theodule Pass, the 321.
328. 336.
Theodnlhorn, the 321.
Therwyl 8.
Thiele or Toile, the 198.
ThieleorZihl,thell. 190.
Thiengen 23.
Thierachern 141.
Thieralplistock, the 126.
Thierberg, the 112. 126.
Thierberg Gletscher 185.
Thierberg-Limmi, the
109. 126.
Thierbergli, the 126.
Thierfehd, the 62.
Thierweid 57.
Thon 61.
Thones 252.
Thonon 239. 246.
Thorishaus 199.
Three Holy Springs 415.
Thuille, the 275.
— , La 275. 284.
Thun 139.
— , Lake of 143.
Thur, the 31. 32. 47. etc.
Thurgau, Canton 47.
Thurra, the Aeussere and
Innere 331.
Thurraberg, the 149.
Thusis 368.
Tiarms, Pass da 364.
— , Piz, Val 364.
Tiatscha Pass, the 350.
Tiatscha, Val 405.
— Glacier 401.
Ticino, the 106. 112.426.
430. 436. etc.
— , the Canton of 107. 422.
Tiefenbach 115.
Tiefengletscher, the 115.
Tiefonkasten 381.
Tiefenmatten Glacier 313.
Tiefensattel, the 115. 126.
Tiefenwinkel 45.
Tignes 276.
Tignet 284.
Tilisuna Hut 419.
Tine, La 237.
Tines, Les 261. 265.
Tiniere, Col de la 227.
Tinzen 381.
Tinzenhorn, the 378.
Tinzenthorpass 378. 381.
Tirano 409.
— , Madonna di 408.
Tisch, Val 379.
Titlis, the 119. 124.
Todi, the 63. 363.
— , the Biindner 3C1.
Todi, the Lesser 363.
Toggenburg, the 58.
Toggia, Valle 308.
Toma Lake, the 364.
Tomlisalp, the 94.
Tomlishorn, the 93.
Tomiil, Piz 360.
Tondn, Col du Mt. 271.
— , Mont 271.
Tonzanico 447.
Torgnon Glacier 312.
Torno 447.
Torre 409. 367.
Torrent, Col de 313.
— , Val de 314.
Torrentalp, the 181. 314.
Torrenthorn, the 181.
Torrigia 446.
Torrone, Pizzo 385.
Torta, Val 350. 429.
Tosa, the 307. 434 etc.
— , Falls of the 307.
Tbsens 417.
Toss 46.
Toss, the 32. 47.
Tongues 239.
Tounot, the 317.
— , Alp 317.
Tour 270.
Tour, Aig. de la 263.
, Aig. du 269.
— , Col du 269.
INDEX.
487
Tour, Glacier du 259. 270
— Noire 265.
— de Peilz, La 224. 228.
— de Treme, La 235. 187,
Tourme de Bouc 292
Tournalin, Grand 322.
Tournanche, Val 322.
— , Col de 327.
Tournelon Blanc, the 292,
Tournette, Mont (Isere
Valley) 250.
— (near Annecy) 251.
Tour-Eonde 240.
Tourtemagne 295.
Tovo 413.
Trachsellauenen 155.
Tracht 169.
Tracuit, Alp 315.
— , Col de 318.
Trafoi 415.
Trafoi Glaciers, the 415.
Trais Fluors 391.
Trajo, Glacier de 281.
Tramelan 10.
Trasquera 300. 306.
Travers 196.
— , Val de 196.
Traversiere, Bee de la
283.
Treib 79.
Trelatete, Glacier de 271.
— Aig. de 273.
— , Col de 271.
— , Pavilion de 271.
Trelechamp 266.
Trelex 218.
Tremettaz, Alp 235.
Tremezzina, the 446.
Tremezzo 446.
Tremoggia, Piz 387.
Tremoggia Pass, the 387.
Tremola, Val 112.
Trepalle 414.
Tresa, the 432. 440.
Tresa, Ponte 440.
Tresculmine Pass 377.
Tresenda 409.
Tresero, Piz 414.
Tre Uomini, Pas.so 377.
Trezzo 448.
Tribschen 191.
Tribulation, Glacier de la
283
Tricot, Aig. du 271.
Triege, the 267. 242.
Trient 267. 268.
— , the 231. 267.
— , Col de 267.
— , Glacier de 268.269. 286.
— , Gorges du 231.
Trift Alp (Saas) 332.
TriftGlacier, thel25. 126.
316. 332.
Triftgrat, the 332.
Triftthal, the 125.
Trifthorn, the 316.
Trifthiitte, the 125.
Triftjoch, the 316. 328.
Triftlimmi, the 125.
Trift Valley 125.
Trimhach 13.
Trimmis 341.
Trinita, Monte della 427.
Trins 358.
Trinserhorn 68. 356. 368.
Triolet, Aiguille de 264.
— , Col de 264.
St. Triphon, Ollon 229.
Triquent 267. 242.
Tritt, the 62.
Tritthorn, the HI.
Trogegg 184.
Trogen 53. 340.
Troisrods 197.
Troistorrents 241.
Trub 128.
Triibbach 340.
Trubinasca, Piz 410.
Trubschachen 128.
Trubsee, the 125.
Trubsee-Alp,the 119. 125.
Trudelingen 64.
Trugberg, the 1C3.
Trtimleten Thai, the 158.
Triimnielbach, the 153.
156.
Truns 361.
Trupchum, Val 400.
Triittlisberg, the 185. 233.
Tsanteleina, the 283.
Tschalnieten 177.
Tschaniut 364.
Tschappina 358. 369.
Tschera, Piz la 371.
Tschiertachen 356.
Tschierva, Piz 392. 397.
— , Vadret da 394.
Tschingelalp 156. 176.
Tschingelberg, the 67.
Tschingel Glacier 156. 176.
Tschingelhorn, the (Lau-
terbrunnen) 153. 157.
Tschingelhtirner, the
(Sernfthal) 68.
Tschincellochtighornl77.
Tschingeln-Alp 45. 68.
Tschingel-Pass 156. 179.
Tschingeltritt, the 156.
Tschuepis 186.
Tschuggen 160. 351. 356.
Tiibach 50.
Tuckett, Col 282.
Tummenen 318.
Tuoi, Val 350. 419.
Tuors, Val 379. 3,53.
Turbach Valley 1S5. IBS.
Turhenthal 47.
Turgi 19. 23.
Tiirl, Lake of 38.
Turlo, Col del 334.
Turtig 296.
Turtmann 295.
Turtmann Glacier 318.
— Valley 295. 318.
Tiisch, Val 46.
Twann 190.
Tyndall, Col and Pic 327.
Tzeudet, Glacier 287.
Tzintre, Defile de la 187.
Uccello, Piz 376.
Ueberlingen 28.
Ueberlinger See 24. 28.
Uechtland, the 199.
Uechtsee, the 203.
Ueli Alp, the 62.
Uerikon 40.
Uertsch, Piz 379. 399.
Ueschinenthal 177. 179.
Ueschinenthali 177.
Uetliberg, the 38.
Uetikon 40.
Ufiern, Alp 363.
— , Val 365.
— Pass, the 366.
— , Piz deir 363. 366.
Ufnau, Island of 40. 41.
Ugine 250.
Uina, Val 403.
Ulrichen 303.
Ulrichshorn, the 332. 333.
Umbrail, Piz 414.
Ungeheuerhorn, the 350.
Unspunnen, Ruins 148.
Unter-Aar Glacier 174.
Unter-Aegeri 98.
Unteralp Pass 105. 364.
Unter-Bergli, the 143.
Untere Buchberg, the 41.
Untereggen 50.
Unterfiiren 126.
Unter-Gabelhorn, the 326.
L'nterhorn, the 358.
Unter-Laret 351.
Unter-Miistail 369.
Unter-Mutten 369.
Unterschachen 64.
Untersee, the 25. 31.
LTnterseen 147.
TTnter-Sihlwald 38.
Unter-Solis 369.
Unterstetten 90.
Unterterzen 45.
Unterwald 30S.
Unterwalden 121.
Unterwasser 57. 59.
Unterzell 24.
t;omo, Piz deir 105. 111.
— Pass, the 106. 366.
488
INDEX.
Uratstocke, the 126.
ITrbachthal, the 172.
Vrden Furkli, the 356.
IJrdorf 70.
Urezas, Val 402.
rri, Canton 83. 101.
— , Lake of 82. 101.
Rothstock 84. 119.
Urio 446.
Urlaun, Piz 63. 361.
Urllchen 303.
XJrmein 358.
Urnasch 48.
Urnenalp, the 172.
Urner Boden, the 64.
— Loch, the 109.
— See, the 81. 101.
Ste. Ursanne 10.
Urschai, Val 402.
Urseren 110.
— , Valley of 109. 115.
Urswvl 130.
Trtier, Val d' 281. 282.
Trweid, Innere 172.
Useigne 310.
Ussel 279.
Ussin 322.
Uster 42.
Uttigen 139.
Uttwyl 39.
Utzensdorf 16.
Utznach 43.
Utzwyl 48.
Vadalles, Les 236.
Vadret, Piz 351. 395.
Vadura 344.
Vaduz 340. 420.
Valaccetta, Monte 414.
Val Dobbia, Col dl 335.
— Tournanche 322.
— Tusch, Alp 46.
Valaisan, Mt. 275.
Valbella 380.
Valcava 401.
Valdeserta, Alp di 306.
Valdobbia, Col di 335.
Valduggia 439.
Valeille, Vallone di 282.
Valendas 358.
Valens 343.
St. Valentin a. d. Ileide
416.
Valeria, Castle 294.
Valettes, Les 285.
Valgronda-Joch 362. 382.
Vallatsch 360.
Valle 105.
Valleiiy 246.
Valletta, Pizzo la HI.
Vallettes, Les 240. 285
Vallorbe 205.
Vallung, Piz 379.
Valmaggia 4.39.
— , Bocchetta di 429. 308.
Valnontey 281. 282.
— , Vallone di 282.
Valorcine 266.
Valpellina 293. 278. 311.
313
— , ci)l de 278. 312. 328.
Valpelline 290. 311.
Valprato 282.
Valrhein, Piz 376.
Vals am Platz 360.
Valsainte 187.
Valsavaranche 283.
Valser Berg, the 360.
Valsorey, Col du 287.
— , Aiguilles du 287.
— , Glacier du 287.
— , Vallee du 287.
Valtellina, the 409.
Valtendro, Passo di 298,
Valtenigia, Alp 361.
Val Torta 350. 429.
Valtournanche 322.
— , Glacier 321. 336.
Valtravaglia, Porto 430.
432.
Valurrank 342.
Valzeina 348.
Van d'en haut 242.
Vanescha Pass 360.
Vanzone 329.
Vaprio 450.
Varallo 4.38.
Varembe 214.
Varen 189. 295.
Varenna 443.
Varens, Aig. de 251. 254,
Varese 449.
Varia, Val 300.
Varzo 300.
Vasannenkopf, the 344.
Vasevey. Col de 293.
Vason 344.
Vassena 447.
Viittis 344.
Vauderens 201.
VauUon 204.
— , Dent de 205.
Vaulruz 235. 201.
Vaumarcus, Castle 197.
Vaux, La 222. 228.
Vazerols 381.
Vecchia, Denti di 425.
Vecchio, Passo 364.
Vedro, Val di 30(1.
Veglia, Alp 306.
Veirier 215.
Veisivi, Dents de 309.
311.
Velan, Mont 287.
Veltlin, see Valtellina.
Vence 286.
Vendome 218.
Veney 252.
Veni, Val 273.
Venoge, the 198. 228.
Vereina Pass, the 350.
St.Verena, Hermitage 15.
St. Verenathal, the 15.
Vergeletto 428.
Vergiate 436.
Verlorne Loch, the 370.
Vermunt-Pa.ss, the 419.
— Glacier 419.
Vernayaz 231.
Vernela Pass, the 350.
Vernex-Montreux225.228.
Vernok Pass 360.
Veroillev, Chap, de 231.
Verona, Piz di 408.
Verra Glacier, the 327.
— Pass, the 327.
Verres 279. 336.
Verrieres Suisses,Les 196.
— Francaises, Les 196.
Versam 357.
Vers rEglise 234.
Versoix 217. 228.
Verstanklahorn, the 350.
Versfanklathor, the 350.
Verzasca, the 427.
, Val 427.
Vesenaz 215.
Vespran 411.
Vessona, Col de 278.
Vetroz 294.
Vevey 222. 223. 228.
Vex 809.
Veytaux 225.
Veytaux-Chillon 228.
Vezia 444. 422.
Via Mala, the 370.
Vial, Piz 360. 361.
Vicosoprano 411.
Viege 296.
Vieille 281.
Vierwaldstatter See 74.
Viesch, see Fiesch.
Vieyes 281.
Viganello 424.
Vigezzo Valley, the 428.
Vilan, the 348.
Villa near Airolo 303.
— (Val Bregaglia) 412.
— (Val d'Herens) 310
313.
— (Vrinthal) 360.
Villadopsola 301.
Villair 274.
Villard-sous-Mont 236.
Vi liars 229.
Villaret 276.
Villars-Lussery 204.
Villaz-St-Pierre 201.
Ville d' Issert 275.
INDEX.
489
Villefranche 2T8.
Villeneuve in the Aosta
Valley 276.
— , Lake of Geneva 227.
228.
Villers-le-Lac 194.
Villette, La 271.
Villmergen 18. 21. 130.
Vilters 340.
St. Vincent 279.
Vincenthiitte, the 335.
Vincent Pyramide 327.
335
Vindels, Alp 344.
Vindonissa 18.
Vintschgau, the 416.
Viola, Val and Pass 407
Vioms 370.
Vionnaz 241.
Viry 246.
Visaille, Cant, de la 273.
Visletto 428.
Visp, or Vispach 296.
— , the 296. 319.
— , the Corner 319. 320.
324. 331. 332.
— , the Saaser 319.
Vispach 296.
Visperterminen 319.
Vissoye 315.
S. Vittore 377.
Vitznau 78.
\'itznauer Stock 74.
Viviers 249.
— , Grotto 240.
Vizan, Piz 371.
Vlou, Becca di 279.
Vocca 439.
Vogelberg, the 3(5.
Vijgelisegg 49. 54.
Vogeljoch, the 375.
Vogna, Val 335.
Vogogna 301.
Voirons, the 216.
Vorab, the 68. 358.
Vorarlberg. the 420.
Vorauen 66.
Vorder-Glarnisch 66. 61.
— Jleggen 95.
— Rheinthal, the 358.
— Thierberg, the 126.
— Valzeina 348.
Vonasson, Pointe de 3l0.
Vougy 254.
Vouvry 241.
Voza, Col de 270.
Vrenelisgartli, the 66.
Vrin 360.
Vuache, Mont 246.
Vuadens 235.
Vufflens, Castle 219. 228,
Vuibez Glacier 311.
— , Serra de 311.
Vuisternens 201.
Vully, Mont 204.
Vulpera 403.
Wabern 139.
Wadenswyl 40. 41. 96.
VVagenhausen 25.
Wagenllicke, the 57.
Waggis 78.
Waggithal, the 41.
Wahlalp, the 186.
Waid, near Zurich 33.
near St. Gallen 49.
Walchwyl 95.
Wald near the Bachtel
42. 47.
near Trogen 53.
Waldenburg 12.
Waldhauser, the 3.59.
Waldibrucke 129.
Waldisbalin, Grotto 78.
Waldnacht-Alp, the 120.
Waldshut 23.
Waldspitz 163.
Waldstatt 48.
Walenboden, the 68.
Walen-See, the 44.
Walenstadt 45.
— , Lake of 44.
Walkringen 129.
Wallenbrugg 68.
Wallgau, the 419.
Wallisbachlen 307.
WalUsellen 46.
Waltensburg 371.
Waltersfirren Alp 113.
Walzenhausen 50.
Wandfluh 296.
-, tlie 313. 327.
Wand Glacier 321. 332.
Wangen 14. 25. 31. 41.
Wangi 65.
Wannenstock 66.
Wart 67.
Wartau, Castle 340.
Wartburg,J>eu-, Ruins 13.
Wartegg, Castle 52. 339.
Wartensee 52. 339.
Wartenstein , Pens. &
Ruins 343.
Wasen 104.
Wasenhorn, the 298.
Wasserauer 56.
Wasserfluh, the 21.
Wasserwendi 168.
Wattenwyl 141.
Wat tin gen 103.
Wattwvl 58. 43.
Wauwjl 20.
Wees en 43.
Weggis 78.
Wehrathal 22.
Weihach 47.
Weinburg, Castle 50. 339.
Weinfelden 47.
Weissbad, the 54.
Weissberg, the 371. 382.
Weisse Frau, the 178.
Weisse Knott, the 415.
Weissenau, Ruins 145.
149.
Weissenburg 180.
— , Baths of 186.
Weissenstein, the, in the
Grisons 379.
— near Soleure 15. 10.
Weissensteinhorn 360.
Weissfluh , the 352. 355.
Weisshorn fRawyl) 185.
— (near Zermatt) 326.
(Fliiela Pass) 350.
(Arosa) 356.
— (Parpan) 356.
, Hotel 317.
Weissmies, the 332. 300.
Weisstannen 46.
Weissthor, Old 327. 330.
, New 327. 330.
Weiss-Wasserstelz 47.
Weitenalpstock, the 114.
Weiterschwanden 64.102.
Wellborn, the 167.
Welachtobel, the 356.
Wenden Glacier, the 126.
Wendenjoch, the 119.
Wendenstocke, the 124.
Wengen 158.
Wengern-Alp, the 158.
Scheidegg 159.
Wengi, Baths of 70.
Wengistein, the 15.
Wenslingen 13.
Werben 66.
Werdenberg 59.
— , Castle 340.
Wergisthalbach, the 100.
Werthenstein 127.
Wesen 43.
West-Lenzspitze 332.
Wetterhorn, the 165.
Wetterhornhiitte 165.
167. 172.
Wetterlimmi 167.
Wetterliicke, the 157. 182.
Wettingen 19.
Wettschwyl 70.
Wetzikon 42.
Wetzsteinhorn 185.
Wichtrach 139
Wicki 109.
Widderfeld 77. 92. 119.
Widderegg 113.
Widderfeld-Alpj the 163.
Widerstein-Furkel45. 67.
Wiedikon 38.
490
INDEX.
Wienachten 52.
Wiesberg, Castle 418.
Wiesendangen 47.
Wiesen 354.
Wiggen 128.
Wiggerthal, the 20.
Wlggis, the 60. 66.
Wilchingen 23.
Wild-Andrist 1.55.
Wilde Frau, the 176. 156
Wildegg 22.
Wildenstein, Castle 22.
Wilderswyl 146. 151.
Wildgeissberg, the 124.
Wildgerst, the 165.
Wildhaus 57. 59.
Wildhorn 184. 185. 233.
— Club hut 184. 233.
Wildkirchli, the 56.
Wildspitz, the 100.
Wildstrubel 177. 184.
— Glacier 177. 185.
Wiler 182.
Willisau 20.
Wimmis 142.
Windegg, the 125.
Windgallen, the 114.
Windgane,1heSchachen-
thaler 64. 34.
Windisch 18.
Winenthal 130.
Winkel 91.
Winkelmatten 323.
Winkeln 48. 142.
Winterberg, the 108. 126.
Winter Glacier 115.
Winteregg,theObere 154.
Winterjoch, the 108. 126.
Winterlilcke, the 115.
Winterthur 46.
Wissbach Glacier 172.
Witterswyl 8.
Wittwe, the 178.
Wohlen 18. 21.
Wohlhausen 20. 127.
Wolfenschiessen 117.
St. Wolfgang 351.
Wolfhalden 53. 327.
Wolfsberg 25. 31.
Wollerau 40.
Wollishofen 39. 41.
Worb 129.
Wormser Joch, the 414.
Worth, Schlosschen 27.
Wiilflingen 47.
— , Hoch- 46.
Wiilpelsberg, the 22.
Wiirenlos 19.
Wurmspach, Convent 43.
Wydenbach 72.
Wyhleu 22.
Wyl 48. 58.
Wyla 47.
Wylen 50.
Wyler 103. 123. 125.
Wvleralp 123.
Wylerhorn, the 123.
Wyneck 341.
Wynigen 17.
Wyttenwasser Glacier,
the 112.
Yberg, Ruins 58.
Yverdon 198.
Yvoire 239.
Yvonand 201.
Yvorne 228.
Ywerber Pass 111.
Ywerberhorner, the 111.
Za, Aiguille de la 311.
Za de I'Ano 316.
Za-de-Zan, Col de 311.
— ,Glacier de 278. 311. 312.
Zadrell, Fuorcla 350.
Zagengrat, the 179.
ZanHeuron Glacier 2.33.
23i. 238.
— , Alp 184. 233. 294.
Zapport Alp 375.
— Glacier, the 360.
Zapportgrat, the 376. 360.
Zapporthorn, the 376.
Zarraine, Col de 311.
Zasenberg 162.
Zasenberghorn, the 162.
Zate, Col du 313.
— , Pointe de 316.
Zatelet Pra/, 314.
Zaziwyl 128.
Zclbio 446.
Zelg 53.
Zell 47.
Zenschmiden 333.
Zerbaziere 269.
Zerbion, Jit. 279.
Zermatt 322.
Zcrmiittje 320. 324.
Zermeigeren 331.
Zernetz 400.
Zertannen 329. 330.
Zervreila 360.
Zeznina, Val 401.
Zgraggenthal, the 104.
Ziegelbrucke 42. 43. 59.
Zigiorenove, Glacier de
311.
Zillis 370.
Zirainerberg, the 72. 40.
Zimnieregg, the 127.
Zimuierwald 139.
Zinal 326.
Zinal, Glacier de 313.
315.
— , Pointe de 316.
— Rothhorn 315. 327.
Zinkenstocke, the 174.
ZirLstockalp 90.
Ziteil 381.
Zizers 341.
Zmutt 325.
Zmutt Glacier, the 278.
313. 316.
Zmutt Valley, the 320.
Zocca, Passo di 411.
Zocchetta, Alp 411.
Zofmgen 20.
Zollbruck 17.
Zollikofen 12. 17.
ZoUikon 39.
Zozanne, Lac 314.
Zug 71.
— , Lake of 94.
Ziige, the 353.
Zuger Berg, the 71. 98.
Zum Dorf 115.
Zum Loch 307.
Zum See 320. 325.
Zum Steg 308.
Zum Stein 126.
Zumsteinspitze 326. 329.
335.
Zum Strich 329.
Zuoz 400.
Zupo, Piz 397.
Ziirchersmiihle 48.
Zurich 32.
— , Lake of 39.
Ziirichberg, the 33.
Zurzach 47.
Zustoll, the 44.
Zutz 400.
Zweidlen 47.
Zweiliitschinen 150. 152.
Zweisimmen 187.
Zwillinge, the 324.
Zwillings-Pass, the 327.
Zwingen, Schloss 9.
Zwing-Uri 103.
Zwingli Pass 57.
Zwischbergen Pass 300.
332.
Zwischen-Thierbergen
126.
Zwitzer Egg, the 185.
Leipsic : Printed by Breitkopf <fe Hartel.
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